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GARDENING  FOR   BEGINNERS 


COUNTRY 


LIFE 


First  Edition       .        .         •        •  >        •  May 

Second  Edition  (Revised  and  Enlarged}        .         .  May  1902. 

Third  Edition          „  •        •  4^*7  ^ 

Fourth  Edition         „  -        -  November 

Fifth  Edition  „  „  •  December 

Sixth   Edition  (Revised,  with  many  additional 

Chapters] June 


GARDENING 

for  BEGINNERS 


A  HANDBOOK  TO  THE  GARDEN 


BY 

E.   T.    COOK 


SIXTH    EDITION,    FULLY   REVISED,    WITH   ADDITIONAL 
CHAPTERS   BY 

F.  W.  HARVEY 


LONDON 

PUBLISHED  AT  THE  OFFICES  OF  COUNTRY  LIFE 
20,  TAVISTOCK  STREET,  CO  VENT  GARDEN,  W.C.,  AND  BY 
GEORGE  NEWNES,  LTD.,  8-n,  SOUTHAMPTON  STREET 
STRAND,  W.C.  NEW  YORK :  CHARLES  SCRIBNER'S  SONS 


PREFACE 


ALTHOUGH  books  on  gardening  are  now  many  in  number, 
there  has  scarcely  as  yet  been  one  quite  suitable  for  begin- 
ners— that  is,  both  fully  illustrated,  and  so  plain  and  easy  that 
it  does  not  either  alarm  or  discourage  the  absolute  novice. 
There  are  many  now  who  wish  to  learn,  and  a  simple  book 
that  will  put  them  in  the  right  way,  and  be  truly  a  beginner's 
book,  telling  all  about  gardening  in  the  simple  language  that 
all  can  understand,  and  describing  garden  methods  and  prac- 
tice in  detail,  can  hardly  fail  to  be  welcome  and  helpful. 

For  the  best  of  all  gardening  is  always  the  simplest. 
Sometimes,  in  a  little  wayside  cottage  strip,  that  is  tended  by 
labouring  folk  who  love  flowers,  there  may  be  seen  some 
combination  of  one  or  two  or  of  two  or  three  kinds  of  plants 
that  is  of  so  high  an  order  of  beauty  that  one  may  look  in 
vain  for  anything  as  good  in  many  a  large  place  where  skilled 
labour  is  abundant  and  expense  is  not  considered. 

Those  who  are  growing  old  among  the  flowers  become 
more  and  more  aware  that  all  the  best  things  that  can  be  seen 
or  enjoyed  in  the  garden  are  the  simplest  things,  done  in  the 
simplest  ways.  One  may  even  venture  to  say  that  this  ad- 
mirable quality  of  simplicity  is  the  beginning  and  end  of  all 
good  things  in  gardening.  For  instance,  a  child  might  be 
taught,  as  a  first  lesson  in  planting,  to  make  a  little  edging  of 
white  Pink  or  of  Thrift  or  of  London  Pride,  and  would  be 
rewarded  by  seeing  the  result  of  its  work  a  year  after  in  its 
full  beauty  of  young  strength  of  bloom.  Thirty  or  forty  years 
later,  the  same  child,  now  grown  to  full  years  of  experience, 
will  look  at  such  a  little  two-year-old  border,  and  will  see 
that  it  is  always  a  thing  perfectly  good  of  its  kind,  and  a  living 

vil 


viii  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

source  of  satisfaction  and  delight.  But,  meanwhile,  by  slow 
degrees,  and  by  learning  and  watching  little  things,  each  per- 
haps of  slight  importance  in  itself,  but  with  some  bearing  on 
other  matters  that  will  distinctly  help  to  build  up  knowledge, 
the  outlook  will  have  grown  wider,  and  the  once  beginner, 
now  a  master  of  his  craft,  has  learnt  both  to  know  his  plants 
with  all  their  wants  and  ways,  and  how  to  fit  them,  by  placing 
the  right  plant  or  group  of  plants  in  the  right  spot,  to  all  the 
widely  varied  conditions  and  demands  of  many  gardens. 

It  is  easy  to  go  wrong,  especially  at  first,  by  trying  to  use 
too  many  things  at  a  time.  It  is  true  that  the  good  gardener 
has  to  learn  the  ways  and  needs  of  a  great  many  plants  ;  it  is 
a  part  of  his  training  to  work  through  a  widely  varied  collec- 
tion, and  to  obtain  an  intimate  knowledge  of  all,  but  it  is  only 
when  he  has  gained  a  close  acquaintance  with  individuals  that 
he  can  then  select  and  combine,  and  rightly  use  his  know- 
ledge for  the  direct  service  of  each  special  purpose.  And 
then,  if  he  have  the  divine  gift  of  a  right  perception,  refined 
and  strengthened  by  humble  searching  and  unwearied  labour, 
and  by  training  his  mind  to  the  modest  level  of  regarding 
himself  always  as  a  beginner,  he  will  in  the  end  acquire  that 
ultimate  power  which  will  enable  him  to  use  all  his  material 
with  an  aim  as  true  and  an  attainment  as  sure  as  the  child 
with  his  simple  edging  of  one  well-known  and  well-loved 
little  flowering  plant. 

GERTRUDE  JEKYLL. 


PREFACE  TO  THE  SECOND  EDITION 

IN  this  edition  many  things  have  been  added  which  I  hope 
will  make  the  work  even  more  useful  to  the  beginner  than  the 
first  impression.  I  have  received  many  letters  from  beginners 
expressing  their  gratitude  for  the  simple  advice  given  in  its 
pages  upon  almost  every  phase  of  gardening,  and  I  hope,  as 
the  years  go  on,  to  bring  the  work  to  still  greater  perfection. 

I  must  again  thank  many  friends  for  their  kind  help  and 
suggestions. 

E.  T.  C. 

May  1902. 


PREFACE  ix 


PREFACE   TO   THE   THIRD  EDITION 

MANY  illustrations  have  been  added  to  this  edition  to  help 
the  beginner  in  gardening.  The  book  is  sufficiently  large, 
but  by  careful  revision  it  has  been  kept  to  the  size  of  the 
former  editions.  Many  good  plants  have  been  added, 
especially  in  the  chapters  upon  trees  and  shrubs  and  roses, 
to  bring  the  information  as  much  as  possible  to  the  present 
time. 

E.  T  C. 

April  1904. 


PREFACE   TO   THE   FOURTH  EDITION 

IT  is  a  great  joy  to  me  to  know  that  a  fourth  edition  of  this 
simple  gardening  book  has  been  asked  for,  and  such  a  wish 
enables  the  author  to  bring  the  work,  as  far  as  possible,  to 
the  present  time.  The  various  lists  of  plants  in  this  edition 
contain  the  most  worthy  of  recent  introductions,  and  several 
new  illustrations  have  been  added.  If  this  book  has  helped 
to  spread  a  love  of  gardening,  and  make  our  homes  brighter 
and  happier,  I  have  been  well  repaid. 

E.  T.  C. 

November  1905. 


PREFACE  TO   THE   FIFTH   EDITION 

IT  is  a  source  of  much  pleasure  to  find  that  a  fifth  edition  of 
this  book  is  desired.  It  enables  me  to  correct  the  various 
lists  of  flowers,  substituting  the  more  beautiful  recent 
acquisitions  for  those  which  have  been  superseded.  Al- 
though only  two  years  have  elapsed  since  the  fourth  edition 
was  published,  several  lovely  flowers  have  been  raised  since  ; 
these  are  included  in  the  present  volume. 

E.  T.  C. 

December  1907. 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


PREFACE   TO   THE   SIXTH   EDITION 

THE  demand  for  this  book  continues  unabated,  and  the 
preparation  of  another  edition  affords  an  opportunity  of 
including  several  new  chapters,  such  as  The  Heath  Garden, 
The  Wall  Garden,  The  Paved  Garden,  The  Bog  Garden, 
Replanting  or  Renovating  Borders,  &c.  In  addition  a 
large  number  of  new  illustrations  have  been  added  to  the 
present  edition,  together  with  some  coloured  plates.  It  is 
gratifying  to  realise  that  for  over  thirteen  years  the  popu- 
larity of  this  book  has  been  consistently  maintained. 

F.  W.  H. 

June  1914. 


CONTENTS 


PART    I 

PAGE 

GROUPS  OF  GARDEN  FLOWERS 3 

THE  MIXED  BORDER 36 

RE-PLANTING  OR  RENOVATING  BORDERS 41 

HARDY  FLOWERS  FROM  SEED 44 

ANNUAL  FLOWERS 50 

SWEET  PEAS  .       . 56 

SPRING  AND  SUMMER  BEDDING 60 

ROSES 67 

BULBOUS  FLOWERS 96 

THE  CARNATION  AND  PICOTEE 122 

SWEET  VIOLETS  AND  THEIR  CULTIVATION       .       .       .       .       .134 

THE  ROCK  AND  WATER  GARDEN 138 

THE  WALL  GARDEN 160 

_      THE  PAVED  GARDEN 163 

THE  BOG  GARDEN  AND  ITS  FORMATION 166 

THE  HARDY  NYMPH^AS  OR  WATER  LILIES     .       .       .       .169 

WATER  LILIES  IN  TUBS       .  • 175 

THE  HEATH  GARDEN  .  .  .  .  .  *tf-'#'rj.  <  <.  t  r  m  ^g 
THE  LAWN:  ITS  FORMATION  AND  MANAGEMENT  '.  ^  .  /  .186 

TOWN  GARDENING       .>>  •-  -,v^3j«*0.'i.^v  •'•••-V*  — ;^'V'-  :'v       .  191 

GOOD  TREES  AND  SHRUBS  .        .       'i'::-  s.^-'txu')  '^p  w± r ': ;.;       .  204 

How  TO  ARRANGE  ORNAMENTAL  TREES  AND  SHRUBS  .       .       .  264 

PRUNING  HARDY  FLOWERING  SHRUBS    v-    nux'^jo  r;>;      m       f  2^ 

HARDY  CLIMBING  PLANTS  .       »-     w'1^- vT^;>i\»'    :;       .       .       .  272 

PART   II 

THE  GREENHOUSE  AND  CONSERVATORY  .  .  .  „  .  .281 
USEFUL  GREENHOUSE  PLANTS  ;  .  .  .  .  .  >  .  293 
ORCHIDS  FOR  BEGINNERS  .  .  .  ...  .  «  .318 


xii  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

PAGE 

FERNS 332 

THE  COLD  GREENHOUSE  AND  THE  FLOWERS  GROWN  IN  IT  .       .  348 

THE  CHRYSANTHEMUM 353 

CACTI  FOR  AMATEURS 366 


PART   III 

SOILS  AND  THEIR  TREATMENT 375 

MANURING 380 

THE  STERILISATION  OF  SOIL 384 

HOW  TO  MAKE  AND  CROP  A  KITCHEN  GARDEN     .       .       .       .386 

THE  MAKING  OF  GARDEN  ROADS  AND  PATHS        ....  393 

VEGETABLE  GROWING 397 

CULTIVATION  OF  FRUIT 420 

FRUIT  TREES  AS  GARDEN  ORNAMENTS     .       .       .       .       .  479 

A  SMALL  ORCHARD 480 

FRUIT  TREE  CULTURE  IN  POTS 481 

INSECT  PESTS  AND  WAYS  TO  DESTROY  THEM        ....  487 

A  CALENDAR  OF  MONTHLY  WORK 496 

GARDENING  TERMS  EXPLAINED 504 

ITEMS  OF  INTEREST 523 

ENGLISH  NAMES  FOR  WILD  AND  GARDEN  FLOWERS     .       .       .531 

USEFUL  TABLES  AND  LISTS 542 

LIST  OF  ANNUALS         .       .  t 542 

A  SELECTION  OF  ALPINE  AND  ROCK  PLANTS  .       .       .       .550 

A  SELECTION  OF  HARDY  PERENNIALS 555 

SELECTIONS  OF  ROSES  .       .       . 574 

„            „    SHRUBS 590 

„            „   CONIFERS 593 

PLANTS  SUITABLE  FOR  COLD  GREENHOUSE      .       .       .       .594 

A  SELECTION  OF  CHRYSANTHEMUMS  ......  598 

„             „    STOVE  PLANTS 600 

SELECTIONS  OF  FRUIT  TREES     ....       ,/;.?,       .  605 

A  SELECTION  OF  VEGETABLES    .       .       .      •»;..,.       .       .  613 

USEFUL  HINTS 616 


INDEX    .       .       , 627 


LIST    OF    ILLUSTRATIONS 

COLOURED   PLATES 

PAGE 

Mixed  borders  of  Hardy  Flowers Frontispiece 

Long-spurred  Columbines,  or  Aquilegias facing   8 

Three  good  garden  Roses „  70 

Some  beautiful  hybrid  Saxifrages „  158 

A  large-flowered  variety  of  the  Caucasian  Scabious  (Scabiosa 

Caucasica  magnifica)       .   • „  572 

PLATES 

Anemone  blanda facing    4 

The  Apennine  Windflower  (Anemone  apennina)                                   „  5 

Poppy  Windflowers  (Anemone  coronaria)      ......  6 

Japanese  Anemones  grouped  for  effect „  7 

A  border  of  Michaelmas  Daises     .                 .        .        .        .        .       „  10 

Michaelmas  Daisies  effectively  grouped „  n 

Auricula  offsets       ,.........,,  12 

Alpine  Auricula  Roxburgh »  13 

Single  Hollyhocks „  18 

Bordering  of  German  Iris ?>  19 

Japanese  Irises  effectively  grouped „  20 

German  Iris  at  Kew »  21 

A  seedling  Violetta     •  V •    \"      .*       .'      ".        .        .        .        .       „  22 

Viola  cuttings  and  seedlings  .        .        *'..„•• „  23 

A  bed  of  Pentstemons    .        .        ,        -».-•*- .  -  »^        ^        ^        .       „  24 

Pentstemon  cuttings       .        .        .'       .'.      .'    \f        .        .        •       „  25 

A  border  of  herbaceous  Phloxes „  26 

An  edging  of  the  old  fringed  white  Pink »  27 

Cuttings  of  Pinks    .         .        .        .        ,"                .        .         .         .        „  28 

The  pink-flowered  Oriental  Poppy »,  29 

Polyanthuses  and  Primroses  at  Wisley »  30 

The  double  white  Sweet  Rocket •       ,,  31 

A  mixed  border  beside  a  sunk  lawn        .        .*       ,      r .        .         .        „  36 

A  border  of  simple  mixed  flowers  ........  37 

Planting  plan  of  mixed  border „  40 

A  mixed  border  in  a  small  garden »  41 

Staking  and  tying  a  plant 42 

xiii 


xiv  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

PAGE 

Plants  properly  staked facing  43 

Godetias  and  dwarf  white  Alyssum „       54 

A  bed  of  mixed  Candytuft „       55 

Sweet  Pea,  King  White ,,56 

A  bed  of  unstaked  Sweet  Peas „       57 

Plan  of  a  sunk  Rose  garden ,,68 

Planting  Roses ,,69 

Pruning  hybrid  perpetual  Rose „      72 

Pruning  hybrid  Tea  Rose       .         . ,,72 

Pruning  Tea  Rose ,,72 

Rose  Blush  Rambler „      73 

Result  of  disbudding       ..........      74 

A  Rose  shoot ,,75 

How  to  plant  Rose  cuttings ,,78 

Rose  diseases ,,79, 80 

Rose  Florence  Pemberton „       81 

Protecting  standard  Roses „      82 

Arches  of  Roses ,,83 

Rose  Blush  Rambler ,,84 

Rose  Dorothy  Perkins ,,85 

Rose  Lady  Waterlow,  pegged  down ,,86 

Rose  Zepherin  Drouhin,  as  a  hedge ,,87 

Weeping  standard  of  Dorothy  Perkins  .......       90 

Rose  Felicite-et-Perpetue „       91 

Roses  arranged  in  wicker  basket ,,92 

Arch  of  Blush  Rambler •         •  „       93 

Belladonna  Lily  at  Kew      \    .      A.'      .'      .        .'      ,_        .  „      98 

Autumn  Crocuses  in  grass      .'       *        .'       .        "**  '" ''*."'      .         .  „       99 

Dahlias  grouped  for  effect      .'     V       . v      .        .'  ,   .        .        .  „     102 
Dahlia  Kaiserin  Augusta  Victoria  ........     103 

The  Snake's-head  Fritillary   .        .'                „     106 

Golden  Yellow  Crown  Imperial      .'      .'.'..'      .        .        .  „     107 

Spanish  Irises  among  Roses  .        .        .,-'..'       .        .         .        .  „     108 

Snowdrops  naturalised  in  woodland „     109 

The  buff-coloured  Lily „     no 

The  best  form  of  white  Lily .  „     in 

Daffodils  naturalised  in  grass         .         .         .         .         .         .        .  „     114 

The  Pheasant's  Eye  Narcissus       .        .       lf  :i>'f     ^        t        t  ,,115 

Narcissus  Whitewell       .         .         .'       .        .  .      .        .        .  „     116 

Mixed  May-flowering  Tulips  .        .        ...:/,\.        .        .         .        .  „     117 

May-flowering  Tulips  protected     .     '    .        '.,      .        .        .  „     118 

Choice  Darwin  Tulips    . '       .        . „     1 19 

Carnation  cuttings  .         .'       . ,,126 

New  white  perpetual  flowering  Carnation „     127 

House  of  Malmaison  Carnation „     130 

The  double  white  Violet         .        .        .        .        .        .        .        .  ,,131 


LIST   OF   ILLUSTRATIONS  xv 

PAGE 

A  rock-garden  in  the  making facing  \^ 

Proper  way  to  place  rocks „       139 

Dripping  water  and  bog  garden     .         .        .         .         .        .  ,,       140 

Wild  Pinks  in  rock-garden ,,141 

Evergreen  Candytuft ,,142 

Protecting  Alpines  from  wet „       143 

Cistus  salvifolius     . ,,146 

Cytisus  Kewensis „       147 

Alpine  house  at  Kew      .         .         .         .        .         .         .         .         .  „       156 

Interior  of  Alpine  house                   .                 „       157 

Nepeta  and  other  flowers       .        .        .     '    .        .        .        .  „       160 

Cerastium  in  dry  wall „       161 

A  dry  wall  in  November         .........       162 

Same  wall  a  year  after ,,163 

Paved  walk  between  Lavender „       166 

Trillium  grandiflorum  roseum „       167 

A  Water-Lily  pond ,,170 

Hardy  Nymphaeas -   .        .         .  „       171 

Erica  mediterranea  hybrida „       182 

Erica  carnea „       183 

Plan  of  lawn-tennis  court        .........       190 

A  suburban  flower-garden ,,191 

Japanese  Windflower      ..........       196 

Walk  of  Evening  Primroses    .         .         .         .                 .         .         .  „       197 

^Esculus  parviflora .         .        •         .         .         .         .         .         .         .  „       216 

The  Amelanchier „       217 

The  Catalpa  in  flower „      224 

Seed-pods  of  Catalpa ,,225 

Large-flowered  Winter  Sweet „       226 

A  beautiful  Rock  Rose   .        .        ....        .        .        .  „      227 

Broom  Cytisus  praecox    .        .        .                 „       230 

Daphne  Gwenka     .                 .        .        ...        .        .  „      231 

Escallonia  langleyensis  .        .        ...        .        .  „       234 

The  Golden  Bell     .        .        .        .        .        .        .        .        .        .  „      235 

Catkins  of  Garrya  elliptica     .         ...        .        .        .  „       236 

Branch  of  the  Snowdrop  Tree        .        .        .        .  V-  .         .         .  „       237 

Hydrangeas  in  the  south-west        .        .        .        .     •'  „       238 

The  big  panicled  Hydrangea .         «        .        .        .     ;   .        .  „      239 

The  Sea  Buckthorn       •-.••      .     -    .        .  -     >        .        .         .  „      240 

An  aged  Laburnum  in  flower.        •    _^  '  •    • '      •    1A:  •        •  »      24J 

Magnolia  soulangeana    .     -  .--^    ; })      244 

Magnolia  stellata    .        .        . „       245 

Pernettya  shoot       .         .         . „       246 

Mock  Orange „      247 

Double  Gorse ,,258 

The  Japanese  Snowball  Tree ,,259 


xvi  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


PAGE 


Clematis  over  garden  arch     .        .        .        .        .        .        .        .  facing '272 

The  Mountain  Clematis „  273 

Clematises  over  rustic  poles    ........,,  274 

Vines  trained  on  pillars „  275 

Wistaria  multijuga „  276 

Seed-pods  of  Wistaria  Chinensis „  277 

Pelargonium  cuttings „  288 

A  winter-flowering  Begonia    .        . „  289 

Campanula  isophylla  alba „  298 

Chimney  Bellflower         ..........  299 

Cattleya  labiata „  320 

Cattleya  divisions  and  repotting     .        .        .        .        .        .        .  „  321 

Dendrobium  nobile „  328 

Ccelogyne  cristata „  329 

Wild  Ferns  in  Devonshire „  334 

Ferns  in  woodland „  335 

Maidenhair  Fern „  344 

A  new  greenhouse  Polypodium       .         .         .         .         .         .         •  „  345 

Chrysanthemum  cutlings „  354 

Single-flowered  Chrysanthemums  .        .        .        .        .        .        •  »  355 

Cereus  triangularis „  368 

Prickly  Pears  growing  outdoors „  369 

Asparagus  crown  and  bed „  398 

Seakale  crown  and  cuttings „  399 

Pea  Mayflower „  410 

Potato  Royalty „  411 

Forcing  Rhubarb    .                                          „  j  4J4 

Pyramid  Apple  Tree „  422 

Standard  Apple  Tree      ..........  423 

Bush  Apple  Newton  Wonder „  424 

Old'Ribston  Apple  Tree „  425 

Morello  Cherry „  428 

White  Heart  Cherries     ..........  429 

Espalier  Pear  Tree „  432 

Pear  Doyenne  du  Cornice       .                         ,  433 

Protecting  Strawberries ,  456 

Baskets  of  Strawberries >  457 

Support  for  Melon  fruit ,  474 

The  Cardinal  Nectarine          ..         ^       ......  475 

Saxifraga  longifolia  magnifica >  554 

Anchusa  italica  (Dropmore  variety) >  555 

Rose  Gustave  Regis        .        .        .        .        .        .        .        .  ,  576 

Rose  Una  as  a  pillar       .        .        . ,  577 

A  Weeping  Beech ,  590 

A  Weeping  Scotch  Elm .  „  591 


LIST   OF   ILLUSTRATIONS  xvii 

FIGURES   IN   TEXT 


PAGE 


1.  Effective  ways  of  planting  spring  flowers 60 

2.  Simple  designs  for  spring  beds 61 

3.  Useful  designs  for  summer  bedding 62 

4.  Plan  of  a  narrow  border   .         . 63 

5.  An  oblong  bed 64 

6.  A  star-shaped  bed 65 

7.  A  diamond-shaped  bed 65 

8.  9.  Budding  Roses      .        .        . 76, 77 

10,11.  Dahlia  cuttings 104,105 

12.  A  border  of  flowering  Tulips 120 

13.  Carnation-shoot  layered 125 

14.  Section  of  small  moraine  garden 154 

15.  Elevation  of  a  dry  wall 160 

1 6.  Arranging  stones  in  dry  walls 161 

17.  Layering  tree  or  shrub      .         .         .        .         .         .         .         .         .     212 

18.  Plan  of  bed  of  shrubs 265 

19.  Drainage  in  flower-pot 290 

20.  Chrysanthemum  terminal  buds         .         .        .        »        .         .         .     362 
21,22.  Deep  and  shallow  drains    .         .  .        .        .         .        .     376 

23.  Deep  trenching         .        .        .     ~   .         .        .        .        .        .        .     377 

24.  How  to  trench  a  plot        .        .     "   .        .        .         .        •         .        .     378 

25.  Construction  of  garden  paths  .         .         .        .        .         .         .         .     395 

26.  Produce  from  Potato  sets         .         .        , 412 

27.  28.  Root  pruning .         .        .         .      425, 426 

29-31.  Pear  Tree,  Fan-trained        .         .         ...         .         .      434-436 

32.  Vines  in  span-roofed  house       .         .        ..        ...         .         .     438 

33.  Vines  in  lean-to  house      .        .        .       . .        ...        .        .     439 

34.  Half  span-roofed  house 440 

35.  Section  of  Vine  border     .        .        .'        .        .        ...        .     441 

36.  37.  Pot  Vine  roots «        .        ....     442 

38,  39-  Vine  planting  and  pruning          .        .        .        ...        .    443 

40.  Young  Vine  pruned          .        .        .        .        *.        .        „•        .         .    444 

41-43.  Vine  shoots  tied  down         .         .        .    .-    .        •        .        .      445,446 

44.  Unthinned  Grapes   .        .        .        ...        .        .        ...    447 

45.  Grapes  properly  thinned  .       ..        •        »        .        .        •       „        .     448 
46,47.  Vine,  winter  pruning,  &c.    ....        .        .        .         .     449 

48.  Vine  laterals     .         .        .  __._      ...        •        •        •         •    450 

49,50.  Vine  grafting       .   .    Y     :v.        .        ...        .        .        -452 

51.  Bottle  grafting.        .         .        .         .         .        .  .        .  453 

52.  Strawberry  planting          *         ...         .         »        .         .        .         .     456 
53~55-  Strawberry  layering    .        .        ...        r        *        .     458-460 
56.  Planting  Gooseberry  bushes     .        .        '.        .        *  .,      •         •        •     463 
57,58.  Pruning  Gooseberry  bushes        ,        .        .        .        *        .        .     464 


xviii  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

FIG.  PAGE 

59.  Gooseberry  shoot  in  fruit 465 

60.  Cordon  Gooseberries 466 

61-66.  Insect  pests 489-493 

67.  Planting  bulbs  in  drifts 524 

68,  69.  Useful  garden  tools 618 

70.  Effects  of  wire,  &c 619 

71.  Gumming          ...........  619 

72.  Potting  a  plant         ..........  623 


PART   I 


GARDENING  FOR  BEGINNERS 


GROUPS    OF   GARDEN    FLOWERS 

TABLES  of  good  garden  flowers,  with  concise  cultural  hints, 
appear  on  pp.  542  and  555  ;  it  is  therefore  unnecessary  to  refer 
to  them  all  in  this  chapter.  There  are,  however,  some  groups 
of  plants,  notably  Delphiniums  and  Phloxes,  which  are  of  the 
greatest  importance.  These  are,  therefore,  dealt  with  in  the 
following  pages  at  greater  length. 

Anemones. — The  Anemones,  or  Windflowers  as  they  are  called,  are 
a  race  of  showy  plants  whose  value  in  the  best  garden  cannot  be  over- 
estimated. They  include  some  of  the  choicest  alpine  flowers,  a  few 
invaluable  border  plants,  and  the  section  that  may  be  described  as  blue 
Star  Anemones.  A.  blanda,  A.  apennina,  and  their  forms  are  effective 
when  planted  in  broad  belts  amid  natural  surroundings,  while  the  Hepa- 
ticas  and  Wood  Anemones,  if  tastefully  associated  with  Ferns,  Trilliums, 
and  kindred  plants  in  cool,  shady  situations,  will  thrive  infinitely  better 
than  when  planted  in  the  open  border. 

One  cannot  expect  the  whole  group  to  thrive  in  one  garden,  for  their 
natural  distribution  extends  throughout  the  Northern  Hemisphere,  and 
they  are  found  in  nearly  all  possible  conditions  of  climate ;  the  higher 
Alps,  the  cool  woodland  and  moist  valleys,  have  their  representative 
types,  but  such  a  widely-distributed  group  of  plants  must  contain  at 
least  a  few  species  that  would  thrive  in  every  garden,  while  other  species 
may  be  induced  to  grow  well  by  selecting  sites  for  them. 

The  alpine  section  proves  more  difficult  to  grow  than  any  of  the 
others,  but  even  these  are  less  exacting  in  their  requirements  than  many 
high  mountain  plants,  as,  once  established,  one  may  treat  them  more 
liberally  with  excellent  results.  Any  soil  freely  dressed  with  leaf-soil  or 
plenty  of  sharp  grit,  particularly  that  from  country  roadsides,  will  grow 
Anemones  well,  but  one  must,  for  their  more  convenient  treatment, 
divide  the  genus  into  six  groups,  individuals  of  which  would  be  likely 
to  succeed  together. 

Anemone  alpina  and  its  Allies.— The  alpina  group  is  nearly  ever- 
green. The  majority  have  thick  rootstocks  and  smaller  fibrils,  the  leaves 
are  generally  hairy,  often  quite  silky,  and  branching  stems  of  varying 


4  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

height.  They  prefer  a  deeply-tilled  soil  composed  of  road  grit  and  good 
fibious  loam,  freely  impregnated  with  limestone  chippings  in  the  case 
of  Pulsatilla  and  A.  vernalts,  and  non-calcareous  stone  chips  for  the 
remainder,  aggregated  around  the  collars  of  the  plants,  for  their  chief 
fault  is  liability  to  decay  at  the  base  of  the  leaf-growths.  The  import- 
ance of  securing  young  established  plants  in  pots  to  start  the  colony 
cannot  be  over-estimated.  One  may  waste  much  time  and  incur  con- 
siderable expense  in  attempting  to  grow  newly-imported  plants  without 
any  appreciable  success.  They  should  be  planted  either  when  in  full 
growth  or  in  March ;  the  season  does  not  matter  provided  the  plants 
can  be  established  before  winter  and  the  soil  readily  worked  at  the  time 
of  planting.  If  good  seeds  are  obtainable — and  this  is  a  difficult  matter 
— quantities  of  good  plants  can  be  raised  with  a  little  care.  Use  leaf- 
soil  and  road-grit  as  a  potting  compost,  sterilised  by  baking,  or  sow  the 
seeds  in  broad  pans,  plunging  them  in  the  open  up  to  the  rims,  and  leave 
them  out  all  the  winter.  Should  snow  fall  heavily  during  the  winter, 
stack  several  feet  of  the  cleanest  obtainable  over  the  pans,  and  beat  it 
down  hard  so  that  it  will  not  melt  quickly.  Germination  is  more  rapid 
after  such  treatment,  and  the  seedlings  quickly  appear.  A  thick  tile 
laid  over  the  soil  is  also  of  use  in  helping  germination.  The  first  season's 
growth  is  very  short  in  duration,  and  in  some  cases  seedlings  may  not 
appear  for  a  year  after  sowing. 

The  chief  members  of  the  alpine  Anemones  are  as  follow  : 

A.  alpina. — A  native  of  European  mountains;  varies  from  a  tiny 
tufted  plant  to  specimens  2  feet  high.  It  bears  handsome  white  flowers 
on  branched  stems,  slightly  tinged  with  blue  on  the  reverse  of  the  petals, 
and  furnished  with  a  cone  of  yellow  anthers  in  the  centre  of  each.  The 
leaves  are  soft,  but  not  silky,  and  in  shape  resembling  miniature  Fools' 
Parsley.  It  is  a  grand  plant,  apparently  more  easy  to  grow  in  an  old 
gravel  path  at  the  foot  of  a  rockery  than  high  up  on  a  rockery  slope. 
It  flowers  in  May. 

A.  decapetala,  a  North  American  plant,  grows  9  inches  high,  forming 
a  tuft  of  small  leaves  and  taller  stems  bearing  pale  sulphur  yellow  flowers 
under  i  inch  across,  and  very  freely  produced.  It  flowers  in  May. 

A.  dichotoma  (syn.  A.  pennsylvanica)  is  a  free-growing  plant  midway 
between  A.  sylvestris  and  A.  alpina.  It  makes  a  thicket  of  slender 
growths  i  foot  high,  and  bears  quantities  of  white  flowers  arranged  in  a 
loose  corymb,  the  pedicels  varying  in  length.  It  is  an  excellent  border 
plant,  preferring  a  deep  rich  loam,  in  which  it  makes  excellent  growth. 
It  flowers  in  May. 

A.  Halleri. — One  of  the  Pulsatilla  section,  and  a  very  charming  plant 
that  will  thrive  apace  in  a  rather  dry,  gritty  loam.  The  root-stock 
assumes  massive  proportions  with  age,  and  yields  a  multitude  of  flowering 
crowns  that  produce  greyish-violet  nodding  flowers  surrounded  by  silky 
verticels.  The  plant  has  a  looser  habit  than  the  native  Pasque  Flower 
(A  Pidsatilld),  but  is  very  close  to  many  cultivated  forms  of  it.  May 
flowering. 

A.  Pulsatilla  (The  Pasque  Flower). — A  native  of  our  upland  pastures 


'••  t 


GROUPS  OF  GARDEN  FLOWERS      5 

overlying  chalk.  The  cultivated  plant  grows  9  inches  high,  the  leaves 
of  which  are  deeply  lobed  and  silky,  the  flowers  2  inches  to  3  inches  long, 
bell-shaped,  nodding  or  erect,  and  varying  in  colour  from  pale  blue  (the 
best  form)  to  a  reddish  purple,  entirely  covered  with  grey,  silky  hairs 
externally,  and  furnished  with  a  soft,  silky,  ruff-like  calyx.  The  wilding, 
as  found  on  the  Surrey  Downs,  is  a  low-growing  plant,  i  inch  or  2  inches 
high,  the  flowers  of  which  are  pale  blue  or  purple,  and  nearly  stemless. 
When  sheltered  it  grows  much  taller,  but  it  never  reaches  the  fine  size 
of  the  cultivated  plant.  It  may  be  effectively  used  with  many  of  the 
winter-flowering  shrubs  in  the  form  of  a  carpet.  The  wilding  requires 
a  rockery,  but  the  Pulsatilla  of  gardens  must  have  the  deeper  loams  of 
the  cultivated  border  to  maintain  its  free-flowering  qualities  and  greater 
vigour.  Spring-flowering. 

A.  rivularis  is  a  choice  Windflower  from  the  Himalayas.  It  grows 
12  inches  high,  and  bears  freely-branching  stems  of  white  flowers 
i£  inches  to  2  inches  across  the  petals,  which  are  tinted  blue  on  the  reverse, 
and  the  anthers  are  blue,  purple,  or  lilac,  varying  in  different  specimens. 
The  root-stocks  are  very  stout  and  vigorous,  and  the  plant's  constitution 
is  generally  stronger  than  most  of  this  group.  April-flowering. 

A.  sylvestris  (The  Snowdrop  Anemone)  is  a  general  favourite  that 
everyone  can  grow.  It  forms  dense  tufts  of  Ranunculus-like  leafage,  and 
bears  quantities  of  white,  saucer-shaped  flowers,  each  singly  on  a  long 
wiry  stem  and  quite  i£  inches  across  the  petals.  The  plant  is  unduly 
prolific  in  offsets,  which  will  need  to  be  removed  occasionally  if  the  plants 
are  to  maintain  flowering  strength.  Every  particle  will  grow  well  if 
severed  from  the  parent  plant  and  carefully  treated  for  a  few  months. 
This  species  will  grow  where  any  plant  has  a  chance  to  exist,  and  one 
can  recommend  it  for  furnishing  the  many  odd  corners  that  occur  in 
most  gardens.  It  thrives  well  in  grass,  and  is  not  particular  as  to  shade, 
provided  it  can  get  plenty  of  light.  Its  double  form  is  a  capital  garden 
plant  with  flowers  somewhat  resembling  a  large  white  florist's  Daisy,  but 
it  does  not  bloom  so  freely  as  the  single  type  plant.  It  flowers  in  May, 
June,  and  July. 

A.  apennina  and  its  Allies  (Apennine  Windflower).— The  group 
of  Anemones  most  like  A.  apennina  inhabiting  countries  immediately 
north  of  the  Mediterranean  are  well  adapted  for  grass  planting  and  more 
or  less  informal  gardening  generally.  Their  greatest  use  is  for  clothing 
rockery  slopes,  in  planting  the  higher  banks  of  waterways,  and  they  are 
charming  when  grown  in  small  pans  for  the  alpine  house.  The  shade- 
loving  kinds — nemorosa,  trifolia,  and  intermedia — can  be  usefully  em- 
ployed in  carpeting  open  copses,  while  their  rarer  varieties  will  prove 
worthy  of  the  care  generally  bestowed  upon  shade-loving  alpines.  The 
whole  group  revels  in  leaf-soil — no  matter  wrhat  the  sub-soil  may  be,  a 
layer  of  leaf-soil  or  well-tilled  garden  soil  is  necessary  as  a  covering. 
They  do  not  root  deeply,  and  in  planting  it  is  only  necessary  to  cover 
the  curious  twig-like  underground  stems  with  an  inch  or  two  of  soil. 
All  flower  in  spring. 

A,  apennina  (The  blue  Apennine  Anemone)  is  a  well-known  plant, 


6  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

widely  used  for  grass  planting.  It  thrives  in  almost  any  soil,  and  for 
purposes  of  naturalising  it  is  a  better  plant  than  A.  blanda  in  damp  or 
wet  soils.  It  has  slender  stems,  bearing  solitary  blue  flowers  with  paler 
centres  quite  an  inch  across.  Old-established  clumps  are  remarkable 
for  the  yield  of  flowers,  which  literally  cover  the  leafage.  Its  white 
variety  is  valued  as  a  contrast,  but  its  uses  are  more  limited.  Several 
intermediate  forms  occur  among  seedlings.  Height  6  inches  to  9  inches. 

A.  blanda  is  closely  allied  to  the  last  species,  and  one  may  select 
forms  indistinguishable  from  it.  It  is  mainly  of  stronger  growth,  bearing 
blue  flowers  above  an  inch  across,  with  a  ring  of  white  around  the  anthers. 
It  thrives  best  in  dry  soils  in  elevated  gardens.  The  roots  decay  whole- 
sale if  very  wet  in  early  winter.  As  a  "  grass  "  plant  it  is  inferior  to 
apennina,  but  in  light  soils  likely  to  dry  out  in  summer  this  will  prove 
the  better  plant  to  grow.  White,  lilac,  and  pale  blue  forms  occur  in 
collected  batches  from  Asia  Minor,  and  some  of  these  are  now  being 
selected  and  grown.  The  Grecian  plant  is  coloured  blue.  The  variety 
Scythinica,  from  Kurdistan,  is  a  very  distinct  little  plant  of  great  value 
for  the  rock  garden.  It  has  silvery  flowers  i  inch  across,  the  reverse  of 
each  petal  is  tinted  a  dark  steel  blue,  the  leaves  are  narrower  and  nearly 
prostrate.  It  flowers  later  than  any  other  blanda.  Taurica  is  the 
Cilician  form  of  greater  vigour,  varying  in  colour  tint  from  white  to  blue. 
It  excels  all  others  for  border  planting,  and  particularly  for  pot  or  pan 
culture  in  cool  frames  for  the  decoration  of  apartments  in  spring.  Inter- 
media i»  a  pretty  natural  hybrid  between  A.  nemorosa  and  A.  ranun* 
culoides,  found  growing  as  a  wilding  intermingled  with  its  parents.  Its 
habit  is  that  of  nemorosa,  and  the  flowers  are  sulphur-coloured  and 
fragrant.  A  native  of  Silesia. 

A.  nemorosa  (Wood  Windflower)  is  one  of  our  daintiest  native  flowers. 
It  has  slender  stems  and  white  saucer-shaped  flowers  borne  singly.  It 
delights  in  the  open  copse,  preferring  a  root-run  of  leaves,  moss,  and 
vegetable  debris.  It  makes  stronger  growth  in  soils  overlying  clay,  and 
it  is  generally  found  in  its  best  character  in  Oak  woods  in  partial  shade. 
Its  forms  are  numerous,  but  all  are  exceedingly  pretty.  Flore  pleno 
resembles  an  old-time  florist's  Daisy  in  shape  and  size.  It  is  good  enough 
for  any  garden  use,  appearing  to  better  advantage  in  the  hardy  fernery 
and  the  coarser  kinds  of  rockwork.  Bracteata  is  a  curious  form  with  a 
ruff-like,  ragged  calyx.  Robinsoniana  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  flowers 
we  have.  Its  growth  is  more  vigorous,  and  the  flowers  are  opal-coloured 
and  as  large  as  a  florin.  It  is  worthy  of  the  best  place  the  garden  affords 
for  its  well-being,  and  it  is  becoming  somewhat  scarce.  All  the  nemo- 
rosas  prefer  slight  shade  and  a  cool  rooting  medium  of  vegetable  debris. 
Bracteata  flore-pleno  and  rosea-pleno  in  white  and  rose  colourings  are 
the  only  remaining  double  forms  of  worth.  Height  6  inches  to  10  inches. 

A.  japonica  (The  Japanese  Windftower)  is  an  old  garden  favourite. 
The  older  varieties,  alba  (Honorine  Joubert) ;  hybrida,  rich  silvery  pink  ; 
Lady  Ardilaun,  a  many-petalled  white  variety ;  and  Whirlwind,  which 
has  a  collar  of  greenish  bracts  around  the  flowers,  require  no  extended 
description ;  but  some  of  the  newer  ones  are  greatly-improved  forms, 


POPPY    WINDFLOWERS   (ANEMONE   CORONARJA}.     (See  Page  8.) 


JAPANESE  ANEMONE,  QUEEN  CHARLOTTE,  GROUPED  FOR  EFFECT, 


GROUPS  OF  GARDEN  FLOWERS      7 

and  of  real  interest  to  those  who  value  and  require  autumn  flowers.  Of 
these,  elegantissima  is  a  multi-petalled  hybrida,  the  petals  narrow  and 
strap-like  near  the  centre,  and  broadest  in  the  outer  row.  It  is  vigorous 
and  easy  of  increase,  refined  in  colour  and  shapely.  Mont  Rose  is  a  less 
vigorous  form  with  silvery  pink,  irregularly  double  flowers,  somewhat 
tasselled  in  appearance  like  a  Japanese  Chrysanthemum.  It  makes  a 
neat  tuft  2  feet  high  when  established.  Queen  Charlotte  is  a  variety 
that  improves  on  acquaintance.  Its  first  flowers  are  always  suffused 
with  a  slaty  colouring,  but  later  blooms  are  a  pure  silvery  pink,  very 
large  and  of  considerable  substance.  Its  great  vigour  and  freedom  in 
flowering  are  excellent  features  in  so  good  a  border  plant.  It  is  regrettable 
that  these  Japanese  Anemones  wither  so  quickly  as  cut  flowers.  All  like 
good  rich  soil,  and  will  thrive  in  almost  any  position.  Usually  take  a 
year  to  establish. 

A.  fulgens  and  its  Varieties. — The  fulgens  group  of  border 
Anemones  being  widely  cited  as  exceptionally  easy  to  grow  anywhere 
has  led  planters  to  attempt  their  cultivation  in  all  soils  and  situations, 
and  the  frequent  result  is  failure.  One  cannot  grow  A.  fulgens  well  in 
very  dry  and  poor  soils,  and  but  little  increase  is  obtained  unless  the  roots 
are  liberally  treated.  They  prefer  a  rich  loam,  well  drained  and  of  good 
depth,  and  the  site  should  not  be  baking  hot  in  summer  so  that  the  roots 
ripen  too  early,  or  they  will  start  again  at  a  corresponding  early  season, 
and  the  new  growth  will  perish  in  winter.  Any  exposure,  save  dense 
shade  or  hot  sunshine  combined  with  drought,  will  suit  these  plants,  and 
the  addition  of  very  old  manure,  buried  deeply,  and  leaf-soil  as  a  surface 
dressing  during  growth,  will  help  to  make  stout  rhizomes  that  will  flower 
freely.  A  wet  soil,  on  the  other  hand,  is  equally  unsuitable,  and  the 
carefully  dried  rhizome  as  received  from  vendors  should  never  be  planted 
in  a  wet  soil  or  it  will  decay  forthwith.  It  is  often  better  to  start  the 
roots  in  boxes  under  glass,  transferring  them  to  their  flowering  quarters 
when  the  weather  permits  of  the  soil  being  readily  worked.  They  are 
not  so  generally  used  as  bedding  plants  as  the  varieties  of  A.  coronaria, 
as  their  flowering  season  is  shorter,  but  they  might  be  used  more  plenti- 
fully in  beds  of  shrubs  and  in  masses  in  the  forefront  of  plant  borders. 

A.  angulosa  and  A.  Hepatica  comprise  this  group.  They  are  well- 
known  plants  of  great  garden  worth,  and  their  newer  forms  bid  fair  to 
excel  the  older  ones  when  available  in  sufficient  quantity  to  justify  their 
free  use  in  gardens. 

The  Great  Hepatica  grows  best  in  a  damp,  well-tilled  soil  under  slight 
shade.  Like  its  congeners  it  is  partial  to  leaf-soil,  and  if  old-established 
clumps  show  signs  of  wearing  out,  a  liberal  dressing  of  grit  and  leaf-soil 
will  help  them  round  again.  It  has  hairy  and  lobed  leaves  in  dense 
tufts,  and  large  deep  lilac  flowers  borne  just  above  the  foliage.  Its 
varieties  alba,  grandiflora,  and  g.  lilacina,  are  exceedingly  fine  forms  which, 
when  grown  into  strong  clumps,  prove  very  showy.  Height  6  inches. 

The  Common  Hepatica  is  one  of  the  finest  of  spring  flowers.  It  is 
available  in  white,  blue,  rose,  and  red  colourings,  both  single  and  double, 
and  their  usefulness  in  brightening  the  plant  border  or  rockery  slope 


8  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

early  in  the  year  cannot  be  over-estimated.  The  commoner  sorts  are  so 
free  in  growth  and  flower  that  one  may  suggest  a  wider  use  for  these 
little  plants  in  furnishing  the  soil  at  the  bases  of  shrubs,  in  planting 
ferneries  and  the  drier  sites  of  the  bog  garden,  thus  helping  to  brighten 
these  places  in  the  dull  season.  They  prefer  slight  shade,  and  may 
require  to  be  freely  watered  in  very  dry  and  hot  months,  otherwise  there 
is  no  difficulty  in  their  culture.  Height  4  inches.  All  the  Anemones  of 
this  group  may  be  planted  at  any  time  during  autumn  and  winter 
until  leaf -growth  recommences. 

Florists'  Anemones. — These  are  derived  from  A.  coronaria  and 
forms  of  fulgens  type  collectively  called  A.  hortensis,  descendants  of  which 
are  known  as  Poppy  Anemones,  Chrysanthemum  Anemones,  Peacock 
Anemones,  Caen  Anemones,  St.  Brigid  Anemones,  and  Riviera  Anemones. 
There  is  endless  variation  in  them ;  almost  every  colour  is  represented, 
and  many  types  also,  ranging  from  the  starry  Peacock  Anemones  to  the 
massive  yet  refined  St.  Brigid  race.  Named  varieties  of  select  strains 
are  numerous,  but  there  is  no  standard  nomenclature  of  sufficient  stability 
to  warrant  its  use  here.  Regarded  solely  for  their  brilliancy  as  bedding 
and  border  plants,  or  for  their  great  yield  of  cut  flowers,  one  can  only 
describe  them  as  a  variedly  beautiful  group,  in  which  there  are  flowers 
for  everyone's  tastes.  Their  cultivation  is  simplicity  itself.  A  light, 
rich  soil  freely  dressed  with  leaf-soil,  shade  from  strong  sunshine,  and 
frequent  attention  as  regards  water  in  dry  seasons  are  all  they  require. 
If  used  for  spring  bedding,  roots  of  various  sizes  should  be  planted  to- 
gether, so  that  the  smaller  roots  may  succeed  the  larger  in  their  season 
of  flowering,  and  a  few  should  be  held  in  reserve  till  the  others  are  in 
growth  to  carry  the  display  still  further.  Grown  for  cut  flowers  at  all 
possible  seasons,  one  must  plant  at  intervals  of  six  weeks,  weather  per- 
mitting, from  September  till  April,  and  if  the  earliest  planting  is  top- 
dressed  and  a  few  more  seedlings  are  introduced,  and  the  site  shaded, 
a  pretty  display  may  be  had  ad  infinitum,  with  the  exception  of  the 
Peacock  Anemones.  Height  9  inches  to  18  inches. 

Antirrhinums  (Snapdragons). — Although  the  Snapdragons,  as  we 
are  pleased  to  call  the  flowers  that  the  botanists  class  as  Antirrhinums, 
have  been  known  in  our  gardens  since  the  days  when  Gerard  wrote  his 
famous  Herbal,  it  is  only  during  recent  years  that  any  great  improvements 
in  colour,  habit,  and  form  have  been  effected. 

Fortunately,  the  cultivation  of  the  ordinary  Snapdragons  does  not 
call  for  any  special  skill  or  treatment  on  the  part  of  the  gardener.  The 
word  "  fortunately  "  is  used  advisedly,  because  these  flowers  are  so  useful 
for  so  many  purposes  in  our  schemes  of  summer  and  autumn  effects  that 
they  should  find  a  home  in  every  garden,  no  matter  whether  it  be  the 
strip  of  the  suburban  villa  or  the  demesne  of  the  mansion.  For  filling 
beds  or  borders,  for  naturalising  in  the  wild  garden,  the  crevices  of  dry 
walls,  or  inaccessible  rocks,  the  Snapdragons  are  admirably  adapted,  and 
in  the  latter  positions  they  will  usually  sow  and  reproduce  themselves 
freely  when  given  a  good  start.  In  the  gardens  at  Hopetoun  House, 
Linlithgow,  whole  borders  are  devoted  to  these  flowers,  large  masses  of 


M 


M'H 


I^NG-SPURRED  COLUMBINES,   OR  AQUILEGIAS, 


•' 


GROUPS  OF  GARDEN  FLOWERS      9 

one  colour  being  planted,  and  a  wonderful  colour  effect  thus  obtained. 
Although  the  Snapdragon  is  really  a  perennial  plant,  and  in  a  wild  or 
semi-wild  state  is  usually  allowed  to  grow  as  such,  the  gardener  generally 
finds  it  more  convenient  to  treat  it  as  an  annual,  or  at  the  most  a  biennial, 
for  the  purpose  of  filling  beds  or  planting  in  borders.  It  is  such  a  good- 
natured  plant  that  it  readily  lends  itself  to  this  treatment,  and  the 
modern  varieties  have  been  so  carefully  selected  that  most  of  them  can 
be  relied  upon  to  come  true  from  seed. 

There  are  two  methods  of  raising  seedlings  ;  the  one  is  adopted  where 
the  plants  are  to  be  treated  as  annuals  and  the  other  if  their  existence 
is  to  extend  well  into  the  second  year,  though  either  would  be  applicable 
were  it  desired  to  allow  the  plants  to  remain  as  perennials.  To  treat 
them  as  annuals,  i.e.  to  raise  the  plants  from  seed,  allow  them  to  flower, 
and  discard  them  all  in  one  year,  it  is  necessary  to  sow  the  seed  early 
in  the  year,  and  the  latter  part  of  January  or  the  early  days  of  February 
is  usually  selected  as  the  most  appropriate  time.  By  sowing  the  seed 
so  early  a  long  period  of  growth  is  secured,  a  feature  that  is  necessary 
with  these  plants.  The  actual  sowing  of  the  seed  and  raising  of  the 
seedlings  present  no  serious  difficulty.  A  quite  cool  greenhouse  or  frame 
is  essential,  and  the  boxes  or  pans  in  which  the  seed  is  to  be  sown  must 
be  well  drained,  as  Snapdragons  are  greatly  averse  to  excessive  moisture. 
The  soil  for  filling  the  boxes  ought  to  consist  of  good  loam  two  parts, 
coarse  grit  one  part,  with  a  little  leaf-soil  and  some  old  mortar  added. 
A  similar  mixture,  except  that  a  little  old,  well-decayed  manure  should 
be  substituted  for  the  leaf-soil,  may  be  utilised  for  transplanting  the 
seedlings  into  when  they  are  large  enough  to  be  conveniently  handled. 
Thin  sowing  of  the  seed,  early  transplantation  of  the  seedlings,  and, 
above  all,  cool,  airy  treatment  throughout  the  whole  of  their  career,  are 
the  passports  to  success  in  the  raising  of  Snapdragons  from  seed  early 
in  the  year.  If  kept  near  the  glass  and  freely  ventilated,  as  advised, 
the  young  plants  should  be  sturdy  and  branching  by  the  end  of  May, 
at  which  time  they  may  be  planted  in  their  flowering  quarters. 

If  we  desire  to  treat  Snapdragons  as  biennials,  i.e.  raise  them  one 
year  to  flower  the  next,  the  seed  may  be  sown  in  June  in  the  open  garden, 
and  the  seedlings  subsequently  transplanted  to  where  they  are  to  flower. 
Thin  sowing  and  prompt  transplantation  are  essential.  So  far  as  soil  is 
concerned,  these  delightful  flowers  are  not  at  all  fastidious,  but  it  must 
not  be  heavy  clay  that  is  water-logged.  Thorough  drainage,  and  a  fair 
depth  of  loam  to  which  has  been  added  a  goodly  proportion  of  well- 
decayed  manure,  will  give  large  spikes  of  glorious  flowers.  But,  on  the 
other  hand,  dry,  starved  soil  will  produce  bushy  plants  that  never  seem 
to  tire  of  flowering,  and  for  this  reason  the  Snapdragon  is  an  excellent 
plant  for  growing  in  the  warm,  dry  borders  that  are  usually  found  sur- 
rounding the  dwelling-house,  for  dry  walls,  or  for  rockwork  where  there 
is  very  little  soil.  In  such  situations  it  is  best  to  sow  the  seed  in  June 
where  the  plants  are  to  grow  and  flower,  and  allow  them  to  remain  as 
perennials.  This  also  applies  to  dry  and  open  spots  in  the  wild  garden, 
where  it  is  desirable  to  allow  the  Snapdragons  to  become  naturalised. 


io  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

There  are  three  distinct  types,  viz.  dwarf,  medium,  and  tall,  varying 
in  height  from  I  foot  to  4  feet.  The  beautiful  art  shades  of  pink,  gold, 
terra-cotta,  and  bronze  have  created  a  great  deal  of  interest  in  recent 
years,  and  are  all  well  worth  growing  in  masses  in  beds  or  borders.  For 
walls,  rockwork,  and  the  wild  garden,  however,  the  self  colours,  such  as 
good  crimson,  yellow,  and  white,  are  best. 

Aquilegia  (Columbine}. — A  garden  without  its  Columbines  is  bereft 
of  dainty  and  pretty  flowers.  There  are,  of  course,  species,  and  by 
intermingling  them  the  present  race  of  spurred  and  other  garden  forms 
has  been  obtained.  Aquilegias  may,  indeed,  for  the  garden  go  into  two 
groups — those  with  spurs  and  those  without  these  appendages,  which 
impart  to  the  flower  characteristic  beauty.  To  the  short-spurred  class 
belongs  our  native  Columbine,  with  its  blunt  spurs  arching  over  together 
towards  the  insertion  of  the  stalk.  From  this  wild  plant  (A.  vulgaris) 
come  the  older  garden  forms  in  varieties  of  purple,  dull  red,  pink,  and 
white  colourings.  Of  these  a  rather  more  modern  development  is  a  very 
strong  growing  kind  with  white  flowers,  much  larger  than  in  the  type. 
The  more  modern  garden  Columbines  are  nearly  all  long-spurred,  and 
though  the  older  varieties  of  A.  vulgaris  have  an  unending  charm  both  of 
their  own  beauty  and  of  association  with  the  gardens  of  old  times,  yet 
some  of  the  long-spurred  kinds  are  undoubtedly  more  graceful  plants. 
For  dainty  loveliness  and  grace  of  carriage  no  plant  of  this  family  can 
rival  the  long-spurred,  pale  yellow  Calif ornian  A.  chrysantha,  looking  its 
best  and  happily  thriving  in  some  cool,  half-shaded  portion  of  the  garden. 
To  this  beautiful  plant  a  host  of  garden  hybrids  owe  their  origin.  Many 
of  these  are  tinted  or  suffused  with  pale  pink,  probably  due  to  the  influ- 
ence of  A.  canadensis  and  species  of  red  and  yellow  colourings.  The 
Rocky  Mountain  Columbine  (A.  ccBrulea)  is  a  very  long-spurred  kind  ; 
with  its  blue  and  white  flowers  and  shorter  growth  it  suggests  a  like 
garden  use  to  the  large-flowered  Siberian  A.  glandulosa,  which  has  a 
short  spur.  But  of  garden  Columbines  one  of  the  most  important  is 
the  beautiful  blue  and  white  A.  Stuarti,  raised  by  Dr.  Stuart  of  Chirn- 
side,  N.B.  Columbines  should  be  considered  biennials ;  they  are  true 
perennials,  but  often  die  out  during  the  second  year.  Seeds  are  easily 
raised.  Sow  them  as  soon  as  ripe  in  a  box  of  light  soil,  and  place  in  a 
cold  frame.  Sow  very  thinly,  and  when  the  seedlings  are  of  fair  size 
transplant  them  to  the  place  they  are  to  beautify,  remembering  that 
well  drained  soils  are  most  helpful  to  their  growth.  The  double 
Aquilegia  is  a  monstrosity.  It  is  the  beautiful  series  of  spurred  forms 
that  are  most  welcome  in  the  garden,  and  are  the  most  useful  for  cutting. 
Columbine  flowers  are  excellent  for  table  decoration.  Aquilegias  are 
useful  for  pots,  too,  for  the  cold  greenhouse.  Height  18  inches  to  3  feet. 

Aster  (Michaelmas  Daisies  or  Starworts). — This  is  a  delightful  group 
of  perennials  for  the  beginner.  They  are  hardy,  free,  and  vigorous, 
making  clouds  of  colour  in  September  and  October,  even  lingering  into 
November,  when  the  Christmas  Aster  (A.  grandiftorus)  is  a  bunch  of 
purple  bloom.  For  fully  three  months  Asters  brighten  the  garden.  The 
plants  are  cheap,  and  strong  tufts  put  in  during  winter,  or  when  new 


GROUPS  OF  GARDEN  FLOWERS     u 

growth  is  just  commencing,  will  flower  the  same  year,  while  their  use 
for  decorations  is  great ;  graceful  sprays  put  into  vases  are  a  pleasure 
to  look  at.  We  dislike  to  see  the  Starworts  bunched  up  like  a  sheaf  of 
corn.  They  are  plants  of  exquisite  grace,  which  must  not  be  destroyed, 
and  for  this  reason  a  pretty  way  to  use  them  is  as  flowers  for  breaking 
up  level  masses  of  evergreen  shrubs.  When  Asters  are  planted  amongst 
such  things  as  Rhododendrons,  they  throw  their  sprays  of  flowers  over 
the  shrubs  when  these  are  without  bloom.  When  a  walk  runs  through 
a  little  wood,  or  some  grassy  path  cuts  into  an  old  orchard,  a  rich  colour 
picture  comes  in  autumn  when  Starworts  are  planted  at  the  sides.  But 
they  want  careful  "  staking,"  not  to  show  the  stakes  or  to  leave  holes. 
One  must  try  to  get  a  surface  of  bloom  without  a  break,  a  succession  of 
colours  so  placed  that  each  one  helps  the  other.  It  is  quite  easy  to  make 
a  sad  hash  of  an  Aster  border  unless  the  colour  association  is  carefully 
considered.  Asters,  although  so  vigorous  and  hardy,  should  be  given 
good  cultivation — a  rich,  well-prepared  soil,  and  give  water  freely  in 
dry  weather.  Asters  get  ragged  and  worn  out  unless  divided  every 
other  year  and  replanted  in  freshly  made-up  ground.  The  beginner  in 
gardening,  who  is  really  interested  in  the  pastime,  should  raise  some 
seedlings.  It  is  delightful  to  watch  seedling  plants  flower;  and  how 
pleasurable  is  it  when  some  beautiful  thing  opens  out,  born  into  the 
world  through  your  efforts.  Of  course  there  are  more  blanks  than 
prizes  ;  that  is  the  same  in  all  walks  of  life.  Sow  the  seed  in  pots  when 
it  is  ripe,  which  will  be,  of  course,  in  the  autumn.  The  seedlings  will 
then  be  large  enough  to  plant  out  in  the  spring  and  flower  during  the 
autumn.  There  is  this  advantage  in  raising  seedling  Asters,  the  plants 
soon  flower.  One  has  not  time  to  get  weary  with  waiting. 

The  list  in  the  table  (see  p.  556)  has  been  prepared  by  Mr.  Beckett, 
of  Aldenham  Park  Gardens,  Elstree,  who  grows  Asters  well  and  has 
raised  many  beautiful  varieties.  It  is  a  long  list,  but  all  are  good. 

Auricula  (Primula  Auricula). — Early  History — This  is  what  is  termed 
by  fanciers  the  "  Show  "  Auricula,  or,  more  properly,  the  Exhibition 
Auricula,  because  it  has  been  grown  for  many  generations  by  a  class 
of  amateurs  whose  great  delight  was  to  exhibit  these  plants  in  com- 
petition on  a  certain  date,  which  was  fixed  in  the  south  of  England 
about  the  2oth  of  April,  and  in  the  Midland  Counties  about  the  27th 
of  that  month.  They  seldom  fixed  the  date  in  May,  although  the  Auri- 
cula in  the  north  has  sometimes  been  in  its  best  form  in  that  month ; 
but  there  is  an  old  saying  that,  "  The  Auricula  in  May  has  had  its  day." 

In  the  years  following  the  publication  of  John  Gerard's  Herbal  in 
1598,  we  cannot  tell  how  the  Auricula  was  cultivated,  nor  in  what 
manner  the  improvement  of  this  flower  was  carried  out ;  evidently  it 
was  a  slow  process,  the  art  of  cross-fertilisation  not  being  understood. 
We  know  but  little  of  the  garden  Auricula  as  a  finely-developed  flower 
by  the  art  of  the  gardener  until  the  beginning  of  the  nineteenth  century. 
The  Lancashire  weavers  cultivated  it  as  their  favourite  flower  early  in 
the  century,  and  it  is  owing  to  the  care  bestowed  upon  it  by  these  worthy 
old  florists,  and  the  rivalry  excited  by  the  annual  competitions,  that  the 


12  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

Auricula  has  arrived  at  its  present  state  of  perfection.  The  inception  of 
the  work  was  theirs,  yet  it  has  been  nobly  carried  out  by  the  present- 
day  fanciers.  The  interest  excited  by  an  Auricula  exhibition  is  great 
even  at  the  present  time,  and  the  National  Auricula  Society  annually 
holds  an  exhibition  of  all  classes  of  Auriculas,  under  the  auspices  of  the 
Royal  Horticultural  Society,  every  year  about  the  end  of  April. 

The  history  of  the  Auricula  has  frequently  been  written,  but  little 
is  known,  except  that  the  original  parent  is  the  Primula  Auricula,  an 
Alpine  species  with  leaves  finely  powdered  with  a  white  farina,  and 
flowers  of  a  primrose  colour  in  trusses.  The  leaves  of  the  cultivated 
varieties  are  sometimes  without  any  powder,  others  are  densely  covered 
with  it,  the  flowers  being  of  the  most  variable  character ;  and  it  is  prob- 
able that  these  numerous  varieties  have  been  developed  by  the  inter- 
crossing of  some  other  species  of  Alpine  Primula.  The  fact  that  the 
Auricula  is  an  Alpine  plant  gives  us  a  clue  to  the  treatment  likely  to  be 
successful  in  cultivating  it.  A  close  atmosphere  is  most  injurious  ;  when- 
ever it  is  possible  air  should  be  admitted  over  and  under  the  plants, 
night  and  day,  summer  and  winter.  The  only  exception  to  frames  not 
being  open  night  and  day  is  excessive  frost.  The  plants  may  be  frozen 
quite  hard  and  suffer  no  injury. 

Classes  of  Auricula.— -The  Auricula  for  garden  purposes  is  divided 
into  four  sections — viz.  Green-edged,  Grey-edged,  White-edged,  and 
Selfs.  This  may  seem  unimportant  to  the  cultivator  who  does  not  look 
too  closely  into  the  composition  of  the  flower.  It  is  so  difficult  to  obtain 
green-edged  varieties  that  unless  the  fancier  had  a  definite  standard  of 
excellence  to  work  up  to  in  this  class,  it  might  speedily  be  ignored  alto- 
gether, and  the  green-edged  section  would  drop  altogether  out  of  exist- 
ence. This  type  of  Auricula  is  always  placed  first  in  exhibition  schedules 
and  in  trade  catalogues  ;  probably  there  is  no  other  reason  for  this 
except  custom.  The  "  pip  "  or  corolla  should  be  circular,  and  the  petals 
ought  to  be  free  from  notches  in  the  margin.  Seven  to  nine  pips  form 
a  handsome  truss  ;  the  foot-stalks  ought  to  be  stout,  and  the  main  stem 
ought  also  to  stand  up  erect  without  the  support  of  a  stick. 

The  corolla  ought  to  have  a  margin  of  green ;  rich  dark  green  forms 
a  beautiful  setting  for  the  velvet  black  ground  or  "  body  "  colour.  This 
black  ground  encloses  a  white  centre,  and  the  eye  ought  to  be  a  clear, 
rich  yellow.  The  white  centre  is  formed  of  a  dense  coating  of  farina ; 
the  eye  ought  to  be  round,  and  the  "  paste  "  also  circular.  The  body 
colour  is  sometimes  angular  or  irregular ;  this,  of  course,  is  a  fault,  and 
the  more  solid  this  ground  colour  is  the  better  is  the  flower  esteemed. 

A  grey-edged  Auricula  differs  from  the  green-edged  type  in  the  outer 
margin  being  slightly  dotted  with  farina.  This  makes  it  appear  grey  ; 
in  all  other  points  the  standard  of  excellence  is  the  same  as  in  the  green- 
edge. 

The  white-edge  differs  from  the  grey  in  the  coating  of  farina  being 
so  dense  that  the  edge  appears  quite  white ;  the  farina  is  never  so  dense 
as  in  the  centre  of  the  corolla,  but  the  green  margin  is  covered  so  thickly 
that  it  appears  white. 


An  old  Auricula  plant  that 
needs  dividing. 


A  cluster  of  offsets  that  may 

be  divided  to  make  separate 

plants. 


Three  strong  offsets  detached  from  the  old  plant. 


ALPINE  AURICULA    ROXBURGH,   A   BEAUTIFUL 
NEW    VARIETY    WITH   PURPLE   FLOWERS. 


GROUPS  OF  GARDEN  FLOWERS     13 

The  selfs  are  altogether  different  from  either  of  the  above  classes. 
There  is  the  yellow  or  orange-coloured  eye,  and  the  centre  of  dense 
white  paste,  but  the  margin  is  merely  a  solid  unshaded  colour  of  dark 
maroon,  violet,  red,  or  yellow. 

There  has  grown  up  within  the  last  decade  or  so  a  section  termed 
Fancies.  Of  course,  when  a  batch  of  seedlings  is  raised  by  cross-fertili- 
sation from  any  of  the  above  classes  there  are  varieties  outside  these 
classes  that  are  in  their  way  very  pretty.  These  have  been  cultivated 
and  admired,  even  more  so  by  many  persons  of  taste  than  the  more 
formal  edged  types.  The  larger  proportion  of  them  are  merely  edged 
varieties.  They  have  the  margin  of  green,  grey,  or  white,  but  no  ground 
colour ;  they  are  very  pretty  in  the  garden,  and  those  who  admire  them 
can  grow  them  with  the  others,  as,  of  course,  the  cultural  requirements 
are  similar. 

Cultural  Notes. — The  Auricula  is  propagated  by  seed  to  produce  new 
varieties,  and  the  named  varieties  are  increased  by  offsets.  These  ought 
to  be  allowed  to  remain  on  the  plants  until  roots  are  formed  at  their 
base ;  if  the  offsets  are  removed  before  this  they  take  a  long  time  to 
strike  out  roots,  and  sometimes  refuse  altogether.  Some  varieties 
increase  rapidly  from  offsets,  others  very  slowly  indeed.  The  writer 
has  known  a  stock  plant  grown  on  from  year  to  year  for  six  consecutive 
seasons,  and  never  form  even  one  offset.  These  unproductive  varieties 
will  form  long  necks  in  two  seasons,  and  it  is  best  to  cut  the  top  of  the 
plant  off;  when  this  is  done,  offsets  are  sure  to  be  produced,  and  the 
top,  if  planted  in  sandy  soil  in  a  small  pot,  will  also  in  time  form  roots. 
These  offsets  require  careful  attention,  and  must  be  repotted  as  they 
require  it.  An  offset  will  require  about  eighteen  months  to  grow  into  a 
full-flowering  plant ;  and  most  of  the  varieties  produce  the  finest  trusses 
of  bloom  on  young  plants.  The  fine  grey-edged  Auricula,  George  Light- 
body,  is  a  notable  instance  of  this.  And  in  the  self  class  Horner's  Heroine 
is  another  favourable  example. 

Propagation  by  Seed. — This  is  the  only  way  to  obtain  new  varieties, 
as  Auriculas  do  not  "  sport "  into  distinct  forms,  as  does  the  Carnation 
or  Chrysanthemum.  In  order  to  obtain  good  and  distinct  varieties, 
it  is  necessary  to  resort  to  cross-fertilisation,  and  in  this  case  the  classes 
ought  to  be  kept  by  themselves.  Green-edged  varieties  should  be  crossed 
with  each  other.  There  are  now  four  very  good  varieties  in  cultivation, 
viz.,  Abbe  Liszt,  Mrs.  Henwood,  Shirley  Hibberd,  and  Rev.  F.  D.  Homer. 
All  these  four  may  be  used  either  as  seed  or  pollen  bearers.  No  Auricula 
in  any  class  will  pass  muster  with  a  fancier  if  it  is  "  pin-eyed  " — that  is, 
the  stigmatic  part  of  the  flower  protruding  from  the  mouth  of  the  corolla, 
with  the  anthers  lower  than  the  stigma.  This  would  be  a  fatal  defect, 
and  however  perfect  the  flowers  might  be  in  other  respects,  this  defect 
would  consign  it  to  the  rubbish-heap.  An  Auricula  perfect  in  all  its 
parts  has  the  stigma  placed  near  the  base  of  the  tube,  with  the  anthers 
in  the  mouth ;  and  to  be  sure  that  cross-fertilisation  is  effected,  the 
anthers  must  be  removed  before  the  pollen  is  scattered,  and  should 
be  done  when  the  flowers  are  not  quite  half  open.  This  leaves  the 


i4  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

tube  open,  and  the  pollen  can  be  placed  on  the  stigma  with  a  fine 
brush. 

The  Auricula  flowers  from  the  middle  to  the  end  of  April,  and  if 
cross-fertilisation  is  effected  at  that  time,  the  seed  will  ripen  in  July, 
and  as  soon  as  it  ripens,  it  may  at  once  be  sown.  Use  well-drained 
flower-pots,  those  about  five  inches  diameter  are  as  suitable  as  any 
other.  The  surface  must  be  made  quite  level,  the  seed  to  be  sown 
thinly,  and  merely  covered  with  fine  soil.  Place  the  flower-pots  in  a 
hand-light  on  the  north  side  of  a  wall  or  fence  of  some  kind.  The  seed 
will  germinate  in  two  or  three  weeks,  at  least  some  of  it  will.  A  larger 
portion  will  be  in  the  ground  until  February,  when  more  seedlings  will 
appear,  and  the  remainder  of  the  seed  will  germinate  at  intervals  for 
twelve  months  or  more.  The  seedlings  should  be  pricked  out  as  soon 
as  they  can  be  handled.  A  medium  sixty-sized  flower-pot  will  contain 
twelve  or  thirteen  of  these  small  seedlings.  They  must  be  grown  on 
in  hand-lights  or  frames,  and  as  soon  as  the  plants  have  grown  together, 
they  may  be  repotted  again,  this  time  three  plants  in  the  same  sized 
flower-pots.  After  a  time  they  are  again  separated,  and  this  time  one 
plant  only  in  a  pot.  When  well  established,  repot  again  into  a  small 
forty-eight  or  a  4-inch  flower-pot ;  and  in  this  size  the  plants  will  flower. 
From  the  sowing  of  the  seed  until  the  time  of  flowering  will  be  about 
twenty-two  months  ;  and  it  is  needless  to  think  that  the  time  can  be 
shortened,  for  Auriculas  cannot  be  forced  into  flower  before  their  time. 
A  close  atmosphere  and  artificial  heat  are  fatal  to  Auriculas,  either  when 
in  growth  or  in  flower.  If  they  are  flowered  in  a  house,  the  plants  must 
be  placed  near  the  glass  roof,  and  air  must  be  admitted  freely  both  under 
and  over  the  plants.  All  through  the  growing  season  the  plants  are 
kept  in  frames,  from  which  the  lights  are  removed  at  every  favourable 
opportunity. 

General  Culture. — In  order  to  give  a  clear  and  concise  account  of  the 
cultural  requirements,  we  will  suppose  that  it  is  the  month  of  February. 
The  Auriculas  should  be  removed  from  the  garden  frames  into  the  Auri- 
cula house.  This  is  a  span-roofed  structure,  say  10  feet  wide,  and  any 
required  length,  with  a  path  in  the  centre,  and  side  stages  about  3!  feet 
wide,  which  will  give  a  path  of  2^  feet.  The  plants  are  placed  within 
1 8  inches  of  the  glass  roof,  or  even  less,  and  they  must  also  be  surface 
dressed.  A  portion  of  the  old  top  soil  is  removed,  and  replaced  with  a 
compost  of  one  part  good  yellow  loam  and  one  part  of  decayed  manure. 
All  offsets  ought  to  be  removed  at  the  same  time,  and  there  is  no  better 
season  of  the  year  for  planting  them.  They  seem  to  do  best  when 
removed  in  February.  Plant  each  offset  separately  in  deep  thumb  pots, 
using  ordinary  potting  mould  to  three  parts  of  the  depth,  filling  up  with 
finely  sifted  sandy  material.  Plant  the  offsets  firmly,  and  place  them  in 
hand-lights.  It  is  characteristic  of  the  Auricula  after  its  winter  rest  to 
grow  away  rapidly,  and  the  offsets  partake  of  the  character  of  the  parent 
plants  ;  they  also  grow  freely  and  form  roots  more  readily  than  at  any 
other  period.  In  March  the  trusses  will  rapidly  develop,  and  to  obtain 
the  best  results  some  care  is  necessary.  They  should  be  protected  from 


GROUPS   OF   GARDEN  FLOWERS  15 

the  keen  cutting  east  winds  we  frequently  experience  in  March.  It  is 
well  to  ventilate  freely,  but  disastrous  results  would  follow  if  the  venti- 
lators were  freely  opened  on  the  east  side  during  these  frost  winds ; 
and  if  the  frosts  are  (as  they  may  be)  severe,  it  is  as  well  to  have  a  little 
heat  in  the  hot-water  pipes,  for  if  the  Auricula  truss  is  frozen  in  process 
of  development  the  flowers  seldom  open  well ;  but  beware  of  anything 
approaching  to  a  forcing  temperature,  which  would  be  sure  to  cause 
weakly,  drawn-up  stems  and  small  flowers.  In  April  the  flowers  de- 
velop, and  in  that  month  the  Auricula  exhibitions  are  held,  and  no 
flowers  are  more  likely  to  be  injured  by  the  sun,  therefore  it  is  necessary 
to  shade,  and  at  the  same  time  see  that  the  shading  is  removed  as  soon 
as  it  is  not  needed.  Those  amateurs  who  intend  to  exhibit  for  prizes 
must  have  a  good  knowledge  of  particular  varieties.  Some  will  last  in 
full  beauty  for  three  or  four  weeks,  others  will  go  wrong  after  as  many 
days.  The  selfs  last  but  a  little  time  in  good  condition,  and  it  is  really 
necessary  to  keep  them  out  in  the  frames  three  or  four  weeks  longer 
than  the  edged  varieties,  if  they  are  to  be  in  flower  at  the  same  time. 
The  plants  must  be  free  from  green-fly  before  the  flower  trusses  appear. 
The  amateur  who  delights  in  his  plants  will  not  fail  to  give  them  all 
the  attention  they  require  when  they  are  in  flower,  such  as  careful  atten- 
tion to  watering,  protecting  the  delicate  blossoms  from  rough  winds  and 
bright  sunshine. 

With  the  advent  of  May  the  blooming  season  is  well-nigh  over, 
and,  as  the  flowers  decay,  they  must  be  pinched  off  at  the  base  of  the 
foot-stalks,  leaving  the  main  stem  to  die  off  gradually ;  and  the  plants 
must  be  removed  to  the  summer  quarters  on  the  north  side  of  a  wall  or 
building  of  some  kind,  and  after  being  in  the  frames  for  a  week  or  two 
they  may  be  repotted.  The  Auricula  requires  to  be  repotted  once  a 
year,  and  if  the  best  results  are  to  be  obtained  the  sooner  it  is  done 
after  flowering  the  better. 

In  repotting,  that  very  troublesome  parasite,  the  Auricula  aphis 
(Trama  Auricula)  cannot  be  ignored.  It  is  to  be  found  in  every  large 
collection,  and  clusters  round  the  roots,  principally  amongst  the  drainage, 
and  frequently  round  the  neck  of  the  plants.  Apply  methylated  spirit 
with  a  small  brush  to  the  affected  parts.  This  will  destroy  the  aphis 
and  will  not  injure  the  tender  roots.  A  good  portion  of  the  old  exhausted 
soil  must  be  removed,  and  the  plant  returned  to  a  well-drained  flower-pot, 
similar  in  size  to  the  one  it  was  removed  from.  Young,  vigorous  plants 
that  may  have  flowered  in  smaller  pots  than  are  used  for  full-grown 
ones  ought  to  receive  a  larger  shift,  but  the  maximum  size  ought  not 
to  exceed  5  inches  diameter  inside  measure — 4  inches  to  4^  inches  would 
be  the  most  useful  sizes.  The  potting  soil  should  be  composed  of  good, 
fibrous,  yellow  loam  four  parts,  decayed  manure  one  part,  and  one  part 
of  leaf -mould.  This  may  not  seem  a  very  rich  compost ;  but  it  is  not 
well  to  grow  the  Auricula  into  mere  leaf,  as  it  causes  the  flowers  to  lose 
their  highly  refined  character,  so  greatly  admired  by  the  fanciers.  After 
repotting,  the  frame  lights  should  be  kept  over  them  for  a  week  or  so, 
and  they  must  also  be  shaded  from  the  sun.  Never  shut  the  lights  down 


1 6  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

altogether,  but  leave  them  tilted  at  the  back  ;  the  plants  will  soon  make 
roots  into  the  new  potting  material,  and  when  this  has  happened,  air 
may  be  admitted  freely.  This  is  a  point  of  the  utmost  importance,  as 
the  Auricula  seldom  does  well  unless  air  is  admitted  freely  in  all  the 
stages  of  the  plant's  growth. 

Insect  Pests. — The  ordinary  green-fly  is  the  most  troublesome,  and 
it  is  most  easily  destroyed  by  fumigating  with  tobacco  fumes.  Nicotine 
is  by  far  the  best ;  it  is  most  effectual,  and  a  second  dose  is  seldom 
required.  The  Auricula  aphis  cannot  live  under  this  nicotine  steam  if 
frequently  repeated,  but  it  takes  a  great  deal  more  to  kill  it  than  is 
sufficient  for  the  green-fly.  Slugs  are  troublesome,  and  should  be  killed 
at  night  when  out  feeding ;  for  this  purpose  a  good  lamp  is  necessary. 
The  leather-coated  grub  also  turns  out  at  night  and  feeds  on  the  crisp 
tender  leaves  of  the  Show  Auriculas.  A  green  caterpillar  also  feeds 
voraciously  on  them  ;  but  this  is  found  easily  in  the  day  time.  Decayed 
leaves  should  be  removed  periodically,  as  if  allowed  to  remain  they  may 
materially  damage  the  plants. 

A  list  of  the  best  varieties  may  be  useful  (raiser's  name  in  brackets). 
They  are  as  follows  : — 

Green  edged — Abbe  Liszt  (Douglas) ;  Abraham  Barker  (Lord) ; 
Hy.  Wilson  (Simonite) ;  Prince  Charming  (Douglas) ;  Diomed  (Simonite) ; 
Love  Bird  (Douglas);  Mrs.  Henwood  (Barlow);  Rev.  F.  D.  Horner 
(Simonite) ;  Shirley  Hibberd  (Simonite).  Prince  of  Greens  (Trail)  was 
much  esteemed  a  few  years  ago,  but  owing  to  some  defect  in  its  con- 
stitution, it  has  gone  a  good  deal  out  of  cultivation.  Grey-edged — 
There  are  a  considerable  number  of  choice  varieties  in  this  class.  The 
best  is  still  George  Lightbody  (Headly) ;  although  it  was  in  cultivation 
over  forty  years  ago,  it  holds  its  own  with  the  best.  George  Rudd 
(Woodhead)  ;  Lancashire  Hero  (Lancashire)  ;  Col.  Champneys  (Turner)  ; 
Olympus  (Douglas) ;  Marmion  (Douglas) ;  Richard  Headly  (Lightbody) ; 
William  Brockbank  (Mellor).  In  the  white-edged  class  there  are  some 
choice  and  very  pretty  varieties,  and  perhaps  the  best  is  Acme  (Read) ; 
it  is  very  perfect,  forms  a  handsome  truss,  and  a  perfect  white-edged 
corolla.  Conservative  (Douglas) ;  Frank  (Simonite) ;  Acme  (Read) ; 
Rachael  (Woodhead) ;  Miss  Prim  (Douglas)  ;  Mrs.  Dodwell  (Woodhead), 
an  old  variety,  but  very  distinct,  and  has  a  pure  white  edge ;  True 
Briton  (Hepworth).  The  self-edged  class,  as  previously  stated,  is  dis- 
tinct from  the  others.  The  best  of  them  are  : — Black  Bess  (Woodhead) ; 
Buttercup  (Horner);  Heroine  (Horner);  Lord  of  Lome  (Campbell); 
Ruby  (Simonite) ;  Favourite  (Horner) ;  Mrs.  Phillips'  Mikado  (Smith)  ; 
Harrison  Weir  (Douglas)  ;  May  Day  (Douglas). 

Alpine  Auriculas. — These  are  a  different  class  of  plants  from  the 
show  varieties,  and  have  been  produced  as  garden  varieties  from  a 
different  parentage,  probably  Primula  pubescens.  They  are  easily 
cultivated,  and  will  thrive  well  in  the  open  border,  and  they  form  as 
handsome  rock  garden  plants  as  it  is  possible  to  conceive.  No  other 
plants  have  that  peculiar  distinct  tint  of  crimson-maroon  and  blood-red 
shaded  maroon ;  also  the.  lovely  lilac  and  purple  maroon  tinted  colours. 


GROUPS  OF  GARDEN  FLOWERS     17 

They  are  really  hardy  garden  plants,  and  like  a  medium  clay  loam,  with 
a  moist  subsoil  in  summer.  The  fanciers  grow  the  finer  varieties  in  flower- 
pots, and  when  this  is  done  they  require  similar  treatment  to  the  Show 
Auriculas,  but  as  neither  the  foliage  nor  the  corolla  has  any  farina  upon 
it,  the  plants  do  not  suffer  from  rain,  and  they  can  have  what  both 
sections  appreciate  greatly — abundance  of  fresh  air;  and  they  suffer 
but  little  from  frost  winds.  The  late  Mr.  Charles  Turner  of  Slough  was 
the  first  to  produce  choice  varieties.  Other  cultivators  have  further 
improved  the  garden  varieties,  and  there  are  now  many  choice  and 
distinct  kinds  in  cultivation.  The  best  at  the  present  are  as  follows  : — 
Dean  Hole,  maroon,  shading  to  crimson  ;  Duke  of  York,  crimson  maroon, 
shaded  crimson ;  Firefly,  fine  form  distinct,  deep  crimson,  shading  to 
red ;  Mrs.  Harry  Turner,  maroon  purple  margin,  shaded  ;  Admiration, 
purple,  shading  to  blue ;  Argus,  dark  plum  colour,  shading  vinous  red  ; 
Claud  Halero,  centre  rich  yellow,  margin  maroon  crimson ;  Dazzle, 
white  centre,  shading  purplish  maroon ;  Mrs.  Douglas,  centre  round  and 
white,  deep  purple  shading  to  paler  tint ;  Phyllis  Douglas,  maroon, 
shading  to  reddish  purple ;  Prime  Minister,  centre  round  and  gold, 
shading  to  maroon ;  Uranie,  blood  red  margin,  shaded  pale  red  ;  Rosy 
Morn,  bronze  yellow  gold  tube. 

Auriculas  in  the  Border.— Those  who  are  unable  to  grow  the  Show 
Auriculas  in  pots,  and  these  are  only  adapted  for  this  form  of  culture, 
should  raise  seedlings  of  the  alpine  varieties.  A  good  selection  will  give 
many  beautiful  forms,  and  one  may  regard  them  in  the  same  way  as 
seedling  Primroses,  reserving  only  those  of  pure,  strong  colours,  and 
rich  fragrance.  Deep  purple,  clear  crimson,  yellow,  orange,  and  similar 
shades  are  those  that  tell  best  in  the  garden.  Freedom  of  growth  and 
bloom  must  be  considered  also,  and  these  border  kinds  when  grown  in  a 
frame  or  in  the  greenhouse,  are  welcome  for  their  sweet  fragrance.  In 
many  gardens  the  Auricula  is  used  with  advantage  as  an  edging,  perhaps 
to  some  shrubbery  border  or  in  the  spring  bedding.  Seeds  may  be  sown 
as  soon  as  ripe  (early  summer)  in  pans  of  light  soil  and  placed  in  a 
cold  frame.  When  the  seedlings  are  of  sufficient  size  plant  them  out ; 
they  soon  grow.  Seeds  may  also  be  sown  in  gentle  heat  in  the  early 
year. 

Canterbury  Bells.— The  beginner  frequently  forgets  that  the  old- 
world  flowers — the  Canterbury  Bell,  Pink,  Carnation,  and  other  things, 
are  the  most  satisfying  and  ornamental.  How  rarely  is  the  Canterbury 
Bell  (Campanula  Medium)  grown  even  in  the  large  garden,  where  one 
expects  considerable  collections  of  plants.  The  Canterbury  Bells  are  quite 
easily  managed.  The  chief  point  is  to  obtain  good  colours.  More  recent 
kinds  have  "  cups  and  saucers  "  of  the  breakfast  pattern,  but  these  are 
seldom  pleasant.  Their  size  makes  them  appear  coarse  and  rough. 
Varieties  with  bloom  of  more  reasonable  dimensions  are  better,  and  be 
wise  in  the  choice  of  colours.  A  delicate  lavender,  snow-white,  soft- 
pink,  good  purple,  or  blue  are  beautiful  in  themselves,  and  the  Canter- 
bury Bell  is  a  thing  to  make  a  group  of  where  there  is  sufficient  space. 
Avoid  the  double  forms  ;  they  are  not  merely  unpleasant,  but  hideous. 

B 


1 8  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

The  way  to  raise  Canterbury  Bells  is  from  seed,  regarding  them  as 
biennial.  Sow  out  of  doors  in  June,  the  great  month  for  sowing  bien- 
nials, and  the  result  will  be  sturdy  tufts  for  putting  out  where  they  are 
to  flower  in  the  following  autumn.  Any  good  soil.  Height  3  feet.  The 
great  Campanula  tribe,  to  which  the  Canterbury  Bell  belongs,  is  described 
on  p.  551. 

Delphiniums  (Perennial  Larkspurs). — This  is  a  noble  group  of 
perennial  plants,  strong,  stately,  and  indispensable.  In  June  or  July 
the  tall,  handsome  spikes  give  dignity  to  the  garden,  and  the  Del- 
phiniums may  be  planted  almost  anywhere,  massed  or  grouped  in  threes 
or  fours  in  the  mixed  border,  or  planted  amongst  evergreen  shrubs. 
There  is  an  annual  race,  which  is  sown  each  spring.  Many  beautiful 
varieties  of  Perennial  Larkspur  have  been  raised  of  late  years  by  Messrs. 
Kelway  &  Son,  and  others  ;  indeed,  the  list  has  grown  so  long,  and  all 
the  varieties  possess  some  merit,  that  we  hesitate  to  recommend  any 
where  all  are  so  good.  The  best  way  is  to  see  a  collection,  if  possible, 
or  ask  for  a  strong  blue,  purple,  lavender,  or  some  decided  colour.  A 
tall,  cylindrical  spike,  of  symmetrical  character  forms  the  chief  stem, 
and  when  this  is  removed  after  its  beauty  is  over,  side-growths  will 
prolong  the  display.  A  very  effective  type  of  Larkspur  is  that  in  which 
the  centre  is  blue  and  outer  florets  creamy  white.  It  must  not  be  for- 
gotten that  there  are  yellow  Perennial  Larkspurs — Beauty  of  Langport 
and  Primrose  being  two  of  this  kind.  Kelway  also  raised  the  white- 
flowered  Phyllis  Kelway.  It  must  be  a  poor  garden  that  will  not  grow 
Delphiniums.  Like  the  Paeony,  it  enjoys  a  very  rich  soil ;  and,  given 
this,  and. attention  with  regard  to  water  during  dry  summers,  the  plants 
should  produce  sheafs  of  blossom.  Slugs  have  a  special  fondness  for 
Delphiniums  during  the  winter,  and  where  troublesome,  strew  ashes  over 
the  crowns.  The  way  to  propagate  is  by  division  of  the  roots,  which  is 
best  done  in  spring  as  the  new  growth  is  commencing.  Cuttings  will 
root  best  in  spring,  and  seed  may  be  sown  in  April  under  glass.  Sow  in 
shallow  pans,  and  prick  off  the  seedlings  when  large  enough  to  handle 
where  they  are  to  flower.  It  is  interesting  to  watch  the  seedlings  flower. 
They  are  in  the  nature  of  a  prize  packet. 

Foxgloves. — The  foxglove  appeals  to  the  flower  gardener.  We 
know  it  as  a  beautiful  native  flower,  purpling  with  colour  the  woodland 
or  grassy  bank.  In  the  small  garden  as  well  as  in  the  large  domain 
with  woodland  walks  and  large  belts  of  shrubs  the  Foxglove  will  rear 
itself.  It  is  a  plant  for  a  shady  border  where  Ferns,  Spanish  Scillas, 
Day-lilies,  and  similar  shade-loving  things  are  happy.  In  many  a  garden 
such  a  border  exists,  frequently  in  the  suburban  garden,  where  it  is 
impossible  to  get  away  from  trees  and  shrubs  planted  by  one's  neigh- 
bour to  overhang  the  fence  and  cast  a  deep  shadow  across  one  part  of 
the  garden.  There  the  Foxglove  is  quite  content  to  flower  and  repro- 
duce itself  by  self-sown  seedlings,  in  truth  to  establish  a  colony.  Sow 
the  seed  in  May  or  June  where  the  seedlings  are  to  remain,  or  plant  out 
seedlings  in  the  autumn  or  in  the  spring.  Get  some  seed  of  a  strain 
called  Gloxiniaeflora,  which  has  larger  flowers  than  those  of  our  native 


SINGLE   HOLLYHOCKS. 


GROUPS  OF  GARDEN  FLOWERS     19 

kind  ;  it  is  really  an  improvement  upon  it.  Many  of  the  forms  are  very 
handsome,  say  a  pure  white  bloom  richly  blotched  inside  with  chocolate, 
dabs  of  dark  colour  on  a  snowy  ground. 

Hollyhocks. — Hollyhocks  are  noble  garden  hardy  flowers,  and 
grouped  freely  make  picturesque  features  in  the  border  or  arranged 
against  perhaps  an  oaken  fence  or  grey  stone  wall.  All  the  garden 
forms  have  been  derived  from  Althaea  rosea,  and  remember  that  good 
living  keeps  the  Hollyhock  disease  in  check.  The  plants  need  very  rich 
soil,  plenty  of  manure,  and  when  the  spikes  are  rising  liquid  manure 
occasionally  will  be  helpful.  Stake  the  stems  securely,  and  try  and  get 
varieties  of  a  good  colour.  In  Wood  and  Garden,  p.  105,  it  is  mentioned  : 
"  Hollyhocks  have  been  fine  in  spite  of  the  disease,  which  may  be  partly 
checked  by  very  liberal  treatment.  By  far  the  most  beautiful  is  one  of 
a  pure  pink  colour,  with  a  wide  outer  frill.  It  came  first  from  a  cottage 
garden,  and  has  always  since  been  treasured.  I  call  it  Pink  Beauty. 
The  wide  outer  petal  (a  heresy  to  the  florist)  makes  the  flower  infinitely 
more  beautiful  than  the  all-over  full-double  form  that  alone  is  esteemed 
upon  the  show  table.  I  shall  hope  in  time  to  come  upon  the  same  shape 
of  flower  in  white,  sulphur,  rose-colour,  and  deep  blood-crimson,  the 
colours  most  worth  having  in  Hollyhocks."  There  are  several  ways  of 
increasing  Hollyhocks.  A  very  simple  one  is  by  seed,  but  unfortunately 
one  cannot  be  quite  sure  that  the  seedlings  will  reproduce  the  likeness 
of  the  parent.  Frequently  single  flowers  occur,  which  though  showy 
and  beautiful,  are  quickly  past  their  best,  and  a  dingy  magenta  or  purple 
is  common  too,  a  flower  harsh,  unpleasant,  and  unnatural.  Seedlings 
are  less  likely  to  perpetuate  the  disease  than  cuttings,  eyes,  or  root 
division,  but  when  named  varieties  are  desired,  and  there  are  still  some 
of  the  old  kinds  in  existence  before  the  visitation  of  disease,  by  cuttings 
eyes  or  roots  is  the  way  to  proceed.  The  time  to  sow  seed  is  early 
autumn  or  in  February.  Sow  it  in  a  cold  frame  and  in  a  shallow  pan 
filled  with  ordinary  soil.  Pot  off  and  transplant  in  the  usual  way,  and 
when  increasing  by  division  let  this  be  done  in  spring  when  new  growth 
is  commencing.  We  do  not  advise  the  amateur  to  raise  Hollyhocks  by 
either  eyes  or  cuttings.  The  following  remedy  for  Hollyhock  disease  is 
recommended  by  Messrs.  Webb  &  Brand,  the  well-known  Hollyhock 
specialists.  Slake  one  bushel  of  lime,  and,  when  cool,  add  one  bushel  of 
soot,  4  Ibs.  flowers  of  sulphur,  and  2  oz.  sulphate  of  copper,  finely 
powdered.  Pass  the  mixture  through  a  fine  sieve  and  dust  the  plants 
well  over  with  it  three  or  four  times  during  the  growing  season  and 
when  the  leaves  are  wet  with  dew. 

Irises. — There  are  two  groups  of  Iris,  one  bulbous,  and  the  other 
rhizomatous  ;  the  former  is  dealt  with  in  the  list  of  bulbous  flowers 
(p.  109).  The  Flag  or  Bearded  Iris  (/.  germanica)  has  many  forms, 
which  make  noble  groups  in  the  garden  during  the  early  summer,  suc- 
ceeding almost  everywhere,  even  upon  a  hot  sunny  dry  bank,  when 
the  soil  underneath  is  fairly  rich.  The  best  time  to  plant  is  immediately 
after  flowering,  but  they  may  be  moved  at  almost  any  time.  Many 
a  half-shady  spot  receives  its  beauty  in  summer  from  the  massing 


20  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

together  of  the  blue  German  Flag,  and  even  when  not  in  flower  there  is 
some  charm  in  the  silvery-toned,  sword-shaped  leaves.  Of  this  group 
choose  from  amongst  the  following  varieties : — Black  Prince,  with 
large,  fragrant,  and  handsome  flowers,  with  light  purple  standards  and 
darker  falls,  with  yellow  markings  in  the  centre — the  contrast  between 
standard  and  fall  is  most  marked  ;  Asiatica,  a  splendid  kind,  strong,  with 
spikes  four  feet  high,  and  very  large  flowers,  of  which  the  standards  are 
blue  and  the  falls  darker ;  Mme.  Chereau,  white,  with  soft  bluish  edges, 
much  grown  for  the  markets ;  Mrs.  Darwin,  standards  snow  white,  falls 
white  with  violet  reticulation,  very  pretty  colouring ;  Pallida  dalmatica, 
a  glorious  Flag  Iris,  perhaps  the  most  beautiful  of  all,  with  tall  stems 
of  delicate  blue  sweetly-scented  flowers,  and  broad,  handsome  foliage ; 
Queen  of  May,  pink  and  rose,  a  very  quaint,  pretty  Iris ;  and  Victorine, 
deep  purple  and  white.  The  grey  white  Iris  of  Florence,  or  the  Floren- 
tine Iris,  is,  except  the  ordinary  blue,  the  earliest  of  the  race.  It  should 
be  grown  in  quite  a  simple  group,  perhaps  on  the  lawn,  or  amongst  dark- 
leaved  shrubs.  Coming,  as  it  does,  with  the  Oriental  Poppies  in  May, 
it  seems  to  be  the  herald  of  the  large  flowers  of  early  summer.  In  the 
border,  if  of  sufficient  size  to  accommodate  many  things  in  one  family, 
may  be  grown  all  the  best  of  the  flag-leaved  Irises,  beginning  in  May  with 
the  old  blue  German.  This  is  quickly  followed  by  the  Florentine  Iris, 
the  pale  yellow  Flavescens,  the  magnificent  pale  blue  Pallida  dalmatica, 
and  the  others  of  the  Aphylla,  Amcena,  and  Neglecta  families,  whose 
flowers  are  for  the  most  part  of  varied  arrangements  of  purple,  lilac,  and 
white,  and  numerous  garden  kinds,  derived  from  variegata  and  squalens, 
whose  flowers  are  yellow  and  crimson  and  of  harmonious  minglings  of 
these  with  various  tints  of  purple-bronze  and  smoke  colour.  The  Flag 
Irises  succeed  quite  well  in  town  gardens,  and  in  almost  any  soil. 

Noble  tall  Irises  besides  these,  but  not  so  easily  managed  are  : — 
7.  aurea,  a  tall  vigorous  kind,  with  golden  yellow  flowers  ;  the  six-feet 
7.  gigantea,  ivory  white  and  orange  flowers  of  large  size — a  stately  plant ; 
7.  Monnieri,  primrose  yellow,  reminding  one  of  7.  aurea,  late,  and  appre- 
ciates moisture  ;  7.  missouriensis ,  soft  blue,  a  very  free-blooming  pretty 
species ;  the  common-English  Flag  of  the  water-side,  and  its  fellow  varie- 
gated variety ;  7.  spuria,  deep  blue,  a  tall,  graceful  kind  ;  the  hybrid 
yellow,  7.  monspur  ;  7.  orientalis,  blue  and  beautiful  pencillings  of  colour, 
a  delightful  Iris,  very  pure  and  charming  for  its  blue  shades  ;  and  the 
Siberian  Iris  (7.  sibirica  and  alba),  grassy  plants,  three  feet  high,  with 
an  abundance  of  blue  flowers,  ivory  white  in  the  variety  named  alba. 
I.  fcetidissima,  a  native  species,  has  coral  seed-pods. 

There  are  other  less  important  groups. 

Then  there  is  a  group  known  as  the  Cushion  or  Oncocyclus  Irises, 
which  are  not  beginners'  plants.  They  come  from  the  East,  and  require 
thoroughly  ripening  off  in  summer.  Many  very  beautiful  kinds  belong 
to  this  group,  and  some  are  strangely  attractive,  the  big  7.  susiana, 
or  Mourning  Iris,  as  an  example  ;  but  those  who  wish  to  know  more 
about  this  fascinating  section,  with  flowers  frequently  pencilled  in  a 
delightful  way  and  gauze-like  in  texture,  should  get  Sir  Michael  Foster's 


GROUPS   OF   GARDEN   FLOWERS  21 

pamphlet  concerning  them  from  the  Secretary  of  the  Royal  Horticultural 
Society,  Vincent  Square,  London. 

In  sheltered  nooks  the  lovely,  sweet-scented  Algerian  Iris  (/.  stylosa, 
or  unguicularis,  as  it  is  also  called)  and  its  white  variety  flower  well  in 
winter,  and,  where  slight  protection  is  afforded,  remain  uninjured  except 
by  severe  frosts.  A  mulching  of  light  material  round  the  clump  and  an 
inverted  hamper  placed  over  the  plant  at  night  generally  suffice  to 
preserve  the  unexpanded  buds — in  which  condition  they  should  be  cut 
for  indoor  decoration — from  injury.  They  need  well-drained  soil. 

Since  the  love  for  water  gardening  and  planting  flowers  by  the  stream- 
side  has  developed,  the  Japan  or  Ksempfers'  Iris  has  become  a  popular 
flower,  not,  of  course,  to  the  same  degree  as  the  Flag  Iris,  but  in  no  good 
garden  where  there  is  a  stream,  pond,  or  water  is  the  opportunity  missed 
of  imparting  to  the  water  margin  colouring  of  the  most  beautiful  and 
varied  kind.  Plant  them  by  the  margin  of  the  water,  not  with  their 
feet  actually  in  the  water ;  and  this  may  be  done  in  the  autumn.  The 
flowers  are  many  inches  across,  flat  patches  of  colour,  and  when  there 
is  a  good  selection  and  well  planted  the  effect  is  very  charming,  a  sur- 
facing of  varied  colour,  from  white  through  purple  to  rose,  the  blooms 
peering  above  the  grassy  leafage.  Seedlings  may  be  raised  by  sowing 
seed  in  March,  but  this  is  not  beginners'  work. 

Pseonies,  Tree,  or  Moutan.— It  is  strange  that  a  race  so  gorgeous 
and  effective  as  this  should  remain  in  comparative  obscurity,  as  if  the 
brilliance  of  its  flowers  were  not  sufficiently  startling  to  attract  the 
beginner,  or,  for  that  matter,  those  who  would  scarcely  feel  flattered 
to  be  described  in  this  way.  The  flowers  are  enormous,  big  fluttering 
clouds  of  petals,  sometimes  one  row,  sometimes  two,  and,  of  course, 
many  in  number  when  the  variety  is  quite  double,  a  glorious  mass  of 
colouring  in  the  opening  summer  days.  The  Tree  Paeony  is  a  shrub, 
and  should  be  grouped  upon  the  lawn,  but  not  exposed  to  easterly 
winds.  Shade  from  early  morning  sun  is  useful,  as  the  young  shoots 
are  often  damaged  by  frost  in  spring  if  the  sun  shines  on  them  when 
frozen.  A  rich  soil  is  also  essential ;  it  must  be  deeply  trenched,  well 
manured,  and  give  plenty  of  water  during  the  summer.  We  have  seen 
Tree  Pseonies  in  a  hot  dry  border,  and  then  the  owner  grumbles  that 
the  big  flaunting  flowers  seen  at  the  early  shows  will  not  venture  forth. 
Of  course  not,  when  the  plant  demands  opposite  conditions,  moisture 
and  manure.  When  the  border  is  dry  the  places  where  the  Paeonies 
are  to  go  must  be  specially  prepared.  Avoid  shade,  except  in  early 
morning,  for  the  reason  that  full  ripening  of  the  growth  is  necessary 
to  abundant  flowering.  The  time  to  plant  is  September  or  October. 
Of  the  many  good  plants  we  have  had  from  China,  none  is  of  more 
importance  than  the  Tree  Paeony.  It  is  very  useful  for  forcing  gently 
into  bloom  in  pots.  Rich  feeding  is  essential,  but  it  is  worth  some 
effort  to  get  the  beautiful  flowers  in  February  and  March.  After  flower- 
ing give  the  plants  a  year's  rest  before  again  submitting  them  to  pot 
culture.  There  axe  so  many  varieties  that  it  is  not  easy  to  make  a 
selection  without  omitting  some  kind  that  deserves  attention ;  but  the 


22  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

following  are  very  beautiful : — Aphrodite,  white ;  Duchess  of  Marl- 
borough,  flesh  colour ;  Eastern  Prince,  deep  scarlet,  with  golden  anthers 
to  intensify  the  dark  colouring ;  James  Kelway,  rose,  carmine  centre ; 
Beauty,  rose-lilac  ;  Lord  Byron,  salmon-rose  ;  Reine  Elizabeth,  pink  ; 
Atalanta,  purple-red  ;  Berenice,  white-carmine.  These  are  double  ;  and 
of  the  singles  choose  : — Cecil  Rhodes,  with  fringed  crimson  and  cerise 
florets ;  Lord  Kitchener,  blood-red ;  Countess  Crewe,  salmon-pink ; 
Queen  Alexandra,  white ;  Lord  Iveagh,  rose ;  Mr.  W.  J.  Simcox,  rose 
touched  with  salmon ;  and  the  deep  crimson,  almost  waxy-petalled 
Eastern  Queen ;  Beatrice  Kelway,  white ;  Lord  Burnham,  scarlet, 
semi-double. 

Paeonies,  Chinese,  or  Herbaceous.— Unlike  the  Tree  Paeonies 
these  die  down  each  autumn  and  reappear  in  spring.  The  Herbaceous 
Paeony  is  a  fine  picture  in  every  well-planted  garden — the  old  crimson 
Paeony  tumbling  over  the  border  margin  or  forming  groups  in  the  open 
spaces  of  woodland,  is  as  sumptuous  as  anything  raised  of  recent  years. 
The  soil  cannot  well  be  too  rich  for  the  Pseony ;  and  it  pays  in  the  long 
run  to  make  a  bed  fully  three  feet  deep  for  the  plants,  and  put  in  plenty 
of  decayed  farmyard  manure.  The  herbaceous  Paeony  appreciates  some 
shade,  and  the  flowers  remain  longer  fresh  and  full  of  colour  when  not 
exposed  to  full  sunshine,  but  planting  against  hungry  shrubberies  is  a 
mistake.  The  best  month  to  plant  Paeonies  is  September.  When 
planted  or  transplanted  at  this  time,  the  Paeony  quickly  becomes  estab- 
lished, sends  out  new  roots,  and  is  enabled  to  go  through  the  winter 
with  safety.  A  wrinkle  when  planting  is  to  keep  the  crowns  at  least 
2  inches  below  the  surface.  Also  give  a  surface  mulch  of  well-decayed 
manure  in  spring,  to  prevent  parching  winds  and  hot  suns  drying  up 
the  moisture  in  the  soil.  Never  put  a  Paeony  less  than  a  yard  from 
another  plant,  as  they  are  so  leafy  and  shrubby  that  when  closer  to- 
gether overcrowding  is  the  result.  When  a  bed  entirely  of  Paeonies  is 
planted  the  surface  has  a  bare  look,  but  this  may  be  remedied  by  planting 
Pansies  between,  or  some  evergreen,  such  as  the  mossy  Saxifrage  (Saxi- 
jraga  hypnoides).  Frequently  four  years  elapse  before  the  Paeonies  attain 
their  full  blossoming  perfection.  The  crimson  shoots  in  spring  are  very 
charming,  and  a  pretty  colour  contrast  results  by  putting  yellow  Daf- 
fodils between,  whilst  Lilies  may  be  used  in  the  same  way.  There  are 
two  distinct  classes  of  Paeonies,  the  May  flowering  and  the  more  popular 
forms  of  P.  albiflora.  Of  the  May  blooming  group,  select  from  the  single 
red-flowered  P.  anomala,  which  has  also  very  prettily  cut  foliage,  and 
there  are  many  fine  varieties  of  crimson-shaded  colouring.  A.  arietina, 
and  its  varieties,  are  beautiful  too,  but  of  the  species  a  list  will  be  found 
on  p,  569. 

P.  albiftora,  the  parent  of  the  most  familiar  Paeonies  of  the  day,  has 
single  white  flowers  relieved  by  a  central  tuft  of  golden  stamens.  It 
is  in  brief  a  flower  of  dashing  beauty,  but  the  varieties  offer  a  charming 
colour-range,  from  white  through  rose,  flesh-pink,  purple,  red,  to  full 
rich  crimson.  A  selection  may  be  made  from  the  following : — Beatrice 
Kelway,  rose ;  Queen  of  the  West,  pink ;  Eugene  Verdier,  blush ; 


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GROUPS  OF  GARDEN  FLOWERS     23 

Festiva  maxima,  pure  white;  Lady  Beresford,  pink;  James  Kelway, 
white ;  Mme.  Furtado,  rose ;  Mme.  Calot,  white,  rose  shading ;  Shir- 
burnian,  maroon-crimson ;  Solfaterre,  sulphur ;  Triomphe  de  Paris, 
white  ;  and  Whitleyi,  yellowish  white,  a  very  beautiful  Pseony.  These 
are  all  double  varieties.  A  few  good  singles  are  : — Meteor,  crimson  ; 
Duchess  of  Sutherland,  flesh ;  Queen  of  May,  rose ;  Rose  of  Silver, 
silvery  rose  ;  Venus,  rose  ;  and  Bridesmaid,  pure  white. 

Pansies  (Violas). — The  show  and  fancy  Pansies  cannot  be  regarded 
as  flowers  for  the  beginner's  garden,  and  they  are  seldom  satisfactory 
in  the  South  of  England,  but  of  late  years  many  beautiful  varieties  have 
been  raised,  known  collectively  as  tufted  Pansies,  the  older  name  for 
which  was  Viola.  These  flower  over  a  longer  season  than  the  Heart's- 
ease  of  our  forefathers'  gardens ;  big,  handsome  flowers,  that  seem  to 
smile  in  the  sunshine  of  summer.  By  raising  seedlings  many  beautiful 
forms  may  be  obtained,  offering  a  remarkable  range  of  colouring  from 
selfs  through  blotched  and  other  forms,  some  almost  bronze,  others 
picturesque  mixtures,  in  shading  almost  black,  so  intense  is  the  purple 
tone. 

But  to  create  certain  effects,  to  obtain  masses  of  colour  and  pretty 
bouquets  for  the  table,  it  is  better  to  grow  a  few  of  the  best-named 
tufted  Pansies.  There  is  nothing  in  the  least  degree  difficult  in  their 
management.  Cuttings  may  be  taken  in  July,  inserted  in  a  bed  of 
soil  in  a  cool  part  of  the  garden,  say  a  north  or  east  aspect — anywhere, 
in  fact,  away  from  the  full  force  of  the  midday  sun.  Cuttings  put  in 
during  July  will  root  sufficiently  to  transfer  to  the  places  they  are  to 
adorn  in  the  following  autumn.  For  spring  planting  insert  the  cuttings 
in  the  autumn,  and  protect  them  with  a  rough  framework  of  eight-inch 
or  ten-inch  boards.  Use  the  ordinary  soil  of  the  garden  for  the  cutting 
bed  ;  dig  it  deeply,  and  well  break  it  up,  then  spread  over  it  a  compost 
consisting  of  loam,  leaf-mould,  and  spent  mushroom  bed  manure  in 
equal  parts.  Add  to  this  an  equal  part  of  coarse  silver  sand  or  coarse 
road  grit.  Mix  the  compost  well  together,  pass  it  through  a  sieve  with 
a  half-inch  mesh,  then  spread  it  evenly  over  the  place  for  the  cuttings. 
Level  the  soil  and  make  it  moderately  firm  with  a  board  or  back  of  the 
spade.  An  hour  or  two  before  the  cuttings  are  inserted  water  the  soil 
thoroughly  with  a  fine  rose  watering-can.  The  cuttings  should  be  made 
of  recent  growths,  not  pithy  hollow  stems  ;  let  them  be  about  two 
inches  and  a  half  long,  remove  the  two  lower  leaves,  and  cut  straight 
across  the  lower  joint  with  a  sharp  knife.  It  is  important,  if  possible, 
to  obtain  the  cuttings  with  a  few  small  roots  attached,  such  as  may  be 
obtained  when  taking  from  the  old  stools  (see  illustrations).  Put  the 
cuttings  two  inches  apart.  Make  them  firm  at  the  base  ;  the  rows  to  be 
three  inches  apart  as  a  rule,  but  some  varieties,  being  weaker  than  others, 
require  less  space.  When  the  cuttings  are  inserted  water  them  gently.  In 
about  three  weeks  the  cuttings  will  have  rooted.  The  large  grower  cuts 
back  the  plants  to  secure  cuttings  or  new  growths,  but  those  who  require 
fewer  tufts  need  not  interfere  with  the  free-flowering  of  the  Pansies. 
As  opportunities  offer  detach  young  growths  from  the  crown  of  the 


24  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

plants  and  root  them,  and  in  many  gardens  where  space  is  limited  a 
small  batch  of  plants  may  be  raised  in  wooden  boxes  three  inches  or 
four  inches  deep,  or  in  pots,  placing  them  in  a  cool  position  when  pro- 
pagation takes  place  in  summer,  or  under  a  south  or  south-west  wall 
if  propagated  in  the  autumn. 

There  are  two  seasons  for  planting  Pansies — autumn  and  spring. 
When  a  very  early  spring  display  is  required,  plant  in  autumn,  say 
in  early  October.  Choose  a  warm  sheltered  spot  if  possible.  Plant 
them  firmly  about  ten  inches  apart,  well  working  the  soil  round  the 
collar  of  each  tuft,  and  put  them  a  foot  apart,  not  more,  and  then  the 
intervening  space  will  be  quickly  covered.  Dig  deeply  the  bed  or  border 
where  the  Pansies  are  to  go,  incorporating  partly-decayed  manure,  and 
if  the  soil  can  be  left  rough  for  rains  and  frosts  to  sweeten  it,  so  much 
the  better.  Where  more  than  one  colour  is  associated  in  a  bed  avoid 
violent  colour  contrasts,  but  secure  a  pleasing  sequence.  When  planting 
in  spring  choose  early  March,  and  then  the  Pansies  get  established  before 
the  hot  weather.  This  does  not  mean  that  planting  cannot  be  done  in 
April,  or  even  in  May ;  but  March  is  the  most  suitable  time.  Always 
dig  the  soil  deeply,  and  remember  that  the  Pansy  is  not  happy  in  very 
heavy  ground. 

Plants  sent  from  a  distance  usually  arrive  without  soil  at  the  roots, 
and  need  careful  treatment.  If  they  appear  shrivelled  stand  the  little 
packets  in  flower-pots  (leaves,  of  course,  uppermost),  and  sprinkle  them 
with  water,  and  place  in  a  shady  corner  for  a  few  hours  to  recover. 
Pansies  dislike  hot  sunny  places.  They  delight  in  coolness  and  shade ; 
important  points  to  remember.  During  the  summer,  hoe  carefully 
amongst  the  plants  to  break  up  the  surface  soil,  keep  down  weeds,  and 
always  remove  spent  flowers.  When  a  plant  begins  to  mature  seed  its 
blossoming  is  at  an  end ;  it  cannot  bear  the  double  burden.  When 
the  weather  is  very  hot,  water  the  plants  thoroughly  and  spray  them 
occasionally  in  the  evening.  It  is  wise  also  to  mulch  the  tufts  in  June, 
using  for  the  purpose  leaf-mould  and  loam  in  equal  parts  with  a  free  use 
of  coarse  sand  or  road  grit.  Well  work  the  material  round  the  collar 
of  each  plant.  Two  or  three  times  during  the  flowering  season  it  will 
be  wise  to  give  the  Pansies  a  short  rest  by  pinching  off  all  the  buds  and 
blossoms,  and  within  a  week  another  display  will  reward  the  attentive 
gardener.  Cut  out  old,  coarse,  and  elongated  growths  from  time  to 
time.  This  will  promote  younger  shoots. 

Pansies  may  also  be  raised  from  seed,  which  should  be  sown  out  of 
doors  in  a  shady  place  in  August,  pricking  the  seedlings  out  to  a  speci- 
ally prepared  bed  in  October.  The  plants  will  flower  during  the  follow- 
ing spring.  The  seed  may  also  be  sown  in  gentle  heat  in  the  spring, 
pricking  the  seedlings  off  into  shallow  boxes,  and  then  transfer  them  to 
the  beds  or  borders  when  they  attain  sufficient  size.  Remember  only  to 
purchase  the  best  seed,  i.e.  that  raised  from  the  most  beautiful  varieties. 

Pentstemons. — It  would  be  difficult  to  select  a  gayer  or  more 
interesting  group  of  garden  flowers  than  the  Pentstemon.  There  is 
something  refreshing  in  their  appearance  towards  the  end  of  summer, 


•3 

" 


8 


GROUPS  OF  GARDEN  FLOWERS     25 

when  even  a  weakly  plant  will  attempt  a  brave  show  of  spikes  of  bloom, 
each  flower  of  an  open  bell-like  formation,  reminding  one  of  a  Foxglove. 
Remember,  however,  that  the  Pentstemon  is  decidedly  tender ;  a  hard 
winter  will  kill  the  plants  wholesale,  but  that  is  of  small  importance, 
as  seedlings  may  be  raised  with  great  ease ;  indeed,  we  may  quite  regard 
the  plant  as  a  biennial — i.e.  seedlings  flower  the  year  after  the  seed  is 
sown,  in  contrast  to  the  annual,  which  flowers  the  same  year.  Remember 
the  seasons  for  seed  sowing — one  in  June,  in  shallow  pans,  the  seedlings 
to  be  wintered  in  a  frame,  and  the  other,  which  is  the  more  convenient 
when  space  in  the  little  greenhouse  is  precious,  in  January.  Sow  upon 
a  hot-bed  or  in  a  temperature  of  between  50°.  The  Pentstemon  is 
easily  propagated  by  means  of  cuttings  taken  during  August  or 
September. 

For  the  benefit  of  the  inexperienced  grower  a  typical  growth  of  the 
Pentstemon,  showing  the  flowers  with  the  young  growths  freely  developed 
on  the  lower  portion  of  the  stem,  is  shown  in  the  illustration.  By 
cutting  away  the  flower-spike  a  number  of  young  shoots  are  always 
encouraged  to  develop,  and  these  invariably  root  quite  satisfactorily. 
That  the  beginner  may  better  understand  the  character  of  such  growths, 
we  have  given  an  illustration  of  such  material,  the  shoot  on  the  left  being 
just  as  it  was  cut  from  the  plant. 

The  preparation  of  the  cuttings  next  requires  to  be  dealt  with,  and 
this  is  a  simple  matter.  The  cuttings  should  be  about  3  inches  in  length, 
as  shown  on  the  right  of  the  centre  illustration.  The  lower  leaves  are 
trimmed  off  close  to  the  stem  with  a  sharp  knife,  and  the  stem  of  the  cutting 
cut  through  immediately  below  a  joint,  the  latter  being  formed  by  the 
junction  of  the  leaf-stalk  with  the  stem  of  the  cutting  itself.  Cuttings 
may  be  rooted  in  a  variety  of  ways — a  cold  frame  may  be  requisitioned, 
a  bed  of  sandy  soil  prepared,  and  the  cuttings  inserted  in  this  where  a 
large  number  of  plants  are  desired.  Where  the  demands  are  less,  boxes, 
pots,  or  pans  may  be  utilised  for  the  same  purpose.  On  the  opposite 
page  a  number  of  cuttings  are  shown  inserted  in  a  seed-pan  of  good 
dimensions.  A  suitable  compost  for  propagation  purposes  should  com- 
prise loam,  leaf-mould  and  coarse  silver  sand  or  clean  road  grit  in  equal 
proportions,  and  be  well  mixed.  Insert  the  cuttings  carefully,  pressing 
the  soil  firmly  to  the  base  of  each  one.  Water  in,  and  after  leaving 
to  drain  for  a  while,  cover  with  a  bell-glass  or  hand-light,  and  arrange 
in  the  cold  frame.  Keep  the  cuttings  close  for  a  time  till  rooted,  then 
admit  air.  During  the  rooting  process  shade  from  bright  sunshine. 
Pentstemons  flower  in  late  summer  and  autumn. 

Phloxes,  Herbaceous.— For  very  many  years  the  herbaceous 
Phloxes  have  been  favourites  with  lovers  of  hardy  flowers.  Long  before 
the  merits  of  the  bulk  of  our  beautiful  herbaceous  flowers  were  appre- 
ciated to  anything  like  the  extent  they  ought  to  have  been,  these  Phloxes 
had  claimed  the  attention  of  florists,  to  whose  efforts  in  cross-fertilisation 
we  largely  owe  the  numerous  and  beautiful  varieties  that  adorn  our 
gardens  to-day.  From  what  species  these  varieties  have  been  derived 
it  is  difficult  to  say,  and  there  is  very  little  reliable  data  to  enlighten  us 


26  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

on  this  point.  In  all  probability,  however,  the  parents  were  Phlox 
glaberrima  suffruticosa,  P.  maculata  pyramidalis  and  P.  paniculata.  The 
first  of  this  trio  is,  as  its  varietal  name  implies,  of  woody  habit  and  early 
flowering,  while  the  last  two  are  of  a  more  succulent  nature,  and  flower 
naturally  at  a  later  date.  The  garden  varieties  were  at  one  time  fairly 
clearly  divided  into  two  sections,  known  respectively  as  the  suffruticose, 
or  early-flowering  set,  and  the  decussate,  or  late-flowering  forms ;  but 
during  recent  years  intercrossing  of  varieties  belonging  to  both  types 
has  been  so  frequent  that  the  line  of  demarcation  has  been  almost 
obliterated.  But  this  need  not  worry  the  would-be  cultivator  of  these 
beautiful  and  fragrant  flowers ;  indeed,  it  is  rather  useful,  inasmuch  as 
the  season  of  flowering  of  the  early  set  is  now  blended  with,  or  carried 
on  to,  that  of  the  later  types,  so  that  we  may  have  our  Phloxes  in  flower 
from  June  until  well  into  the  autumn. 

Fortunately,  the  cultivation  of  herbaceous  Phloxes  does  not  present 
any  serious  difficulties,  though  it  is  doubtful  whether  the  best  that  is 
possible  is  obtained  in  the  majority  of  Southern  gardens.  In  Northern 
districts,  and  Scotland  in  particular,  the  plants  are  grown  to  perfection, 
and  though  the  more  moist  climate  may  account  for  some  of  the  success, 
good  cultivation  is  at  the  bottom  of  it  all. 

Although  we  do  not  all  possess  the  deep  rich  loam  that  is  the  ideal 
soil  for  Phloxes,  we  can,  most  of  us,  make  that  which  we  have  suffi- 
ciently suitable  to  grow  and  flower  them  well.  At  Kew,  for  instance, 
where  the  sandy  soil  is  the  very  antithesis  of  an  ideal  one,  these  herba- 
ceous Phloxes  are  grown,  if  not  to  perfection,  at  least  sufficiently  well 
to  pass  muster  in  the  eyes  of  serious  critics.  Deep  trenching,  liberal 
manuring  with,  preferably,  pig  or  cow  manure,  and  copious  supplies  of 
water  and  weak  liquid  manure  during  the  growing  season  are  the  key- 
notes to  success  with  these  flowers  where  the  soil  is  naturally  sandy. 
On  the  other  hand,  where  heavy  clay  predominates,  the  deep  trenching 
and  manuring  must  also  be  resorted  to  ;  but  here  let  the  manure  be  that 
from  the  stables,  and  mix  with  the  top  spit  of  soil  burnt  earth,  wood 
ashes,  old  potting  soil,  road-scrapings  from  country  roads  not  much 
frequented  by  motors,  or,  indeed,  any  other  substance  that  will  tend 
to  render  the  soil  porous  and  warm.  Even  our  ideal  loam  must  be  deeply 
dug  and  well  manured,  because  it  must  be  confessed  that  our  modern 
Phlox  is  a  voracious  plant  and  one  that  likes  to  live  on  the  fat  of  the 
land. 

Planting  is  best  done  during  the  early  spring  months,  particularly 
where  young  plants,  raised  from  cuttings,  have  been  purchased  in  pots. 
For  ordinary  purposes  it  is  preferable  to  rely  on  pieces  taken  off  the  old 
plants,  though  this  is  contrary  to  the  methods  advocated  by  some  who 
make  a  speciality  of  the  flowers.  Such  pieces  will,  however,  give  results 
equally  as  good  as,  and  in  some  instances  even  better  than,  cutting- 
raised  plants,  so  that  it  is  impossible  to  see  the  objection  to  them.  In 
gardening,  as  in  all  else,  opinions  change.  It  is  now  generally  admitted 
that  to  have  good  Phloxes,  frequent  division  of  the  old  plants  is  neces- 
sary ;  indeed,  where  they  thrive  well,  it  is  better  to  do  it  every  other 


GROUPS   OF   GARDEN   FLOWERS  27 

year.  By  carefully  dividing  the  old  plants  with  a  fork,  and  selecting 
small  pieces  of  the  outside  growths  for  replanting,,  we  get  several  strong 
basal  growths  that  will  give  us  flower  trusses  infinitely  better  not  only 
in  size,  but  in  colour  and  substance,  than  were  old  plants  allowed  to 
remain  and  grow  as  they  pleased.  This  division  and  replanting  may  be 
carried  out  at  almost  any  time  during  winter  and  spring,  though  February 
is  the  best  month,  as  new  growth  is  then  usually  commencing  and  very 
little  check  is  experienced.  Mulching  between  the  plants  during  hot 
weather  with  short  manure,  frequent  soakings  with  water  and  weak 
liquid  manure  throughout  their  growing  season,  and  careful  staking  of 
the  shoots,  with  an  early  thinning  out  of  the  weakest  growths,  are  the 
main  cultural  details  that  need  attention  after  planting  has  been  well 
done. 

Varieties  are  now  so  numerous  that  it  is  well-nigh  impossible  to  com- 
pile a  list  without  leaving  out  many  that  are  well  worth  growing. 

The  following  are  good :  Coquelicot,  orange-scarlet ;  Baron  von 
Didem,  orange-scarlet ;  Countess  of  Ilchester,  salmon-pink  ;  Dr.  Charcot, 
parma  violet  colour ;  Iris,  crimson-purple ;  La  Madhi,  dark  violet ; 
Mrs.  E.  H.  Jenkins,  white ;  Sheriff  Ivory,  salmon ;  Sylphide,  white ; 
Etna,  crimson-scarlet. 

Pinks. — The  good  gardener,  amateur  or  otherwise,  will  make  full 
use  of  the  pink,  pure  white  fragrant  flowers  inseparable  from  the  old 
English  garden.  We  confess  a  strong  love  for  the  common  white  Pink, 
so  indispensable  in  its  pretty  modest  beauty  and  its  incomparable  sweet- 
ness. Every  year  as  its  flowering  time  comes  round  one  greets  it  as  one 
of  the  old  treasures  most  to  be  loved  and  prized.  Nothing  makes  a 
prettier  edging  to  a  walk,  for  even  when  the  bloom  is  over  its  neat  tufts 
of  bluish  foliage  are  charming ;  and  it  should  not  be  forgotten  that  in 
winter  the  leafy  tufts  are  at  their  best.  This  old  favourite  has  been 
overshadowed  by  the  larger-flowered  Mrs.  Sinkins,  Albino,  Mrs.  Lakin, 
Her  Majesty,  and  Snowflake.  Mrs.  Sinkins  is  the  variety  more  largely 
planted,  we  think,  than  any  other ;  its  double  white  flowers  are  filled 
with  perfume.  Albino  and  Mrs.  Lakin  we  appreciate  also,  and  their 
flowers  are  less  apt  to  split  than  those  of  the  more  bulky  varieties.  Every 
full  Carnation  or  Pink  flower  generally  splits  its  calyx.  Pinks  must  not 
be  planted  in  a  soil  likely  to  contain  wire-worm,  otherwise  the  tufts  will 
disappear  wholesale  ;  but  ordinary  soil  that  is  not  wet  or  badly  drained 
will  suffice.  The  mauve-tinted  Souvenir  de  Sale  is  very  pretty,  but 
splits  rather  badly ;  and  one  named  Ledham's  Favourite  is  more  lasting 
than  the  others.  Gloriosa  is  a  large  flowered,  new  variety  with  rose- 
coloured  and  fragrant  blossoms.  Besides  the  true  garden  Pinks  a  charm- 
ing group  is  known  as  the  "  laced  "  kind,  an  appropriate  name  indicating 
that  the  colour  is  laced  upon  the  pure  white  ground.  When  show  Pinks 
were  more  fashionable  than  they  are  at  the  present  day  their  merits 
depended  in  a  large  measure  upon  the  purity  and  perfection  of  their 
lacing.  Pinks  are  so  quickly  and  easily  propagated  by  cuttings  or  pipings 
that  a  few  words  will  suffice  to  dismiss  this  subject.  June  is  the  month 
for  the  work.  Cut  them  just  under  a  joint,  remove  the  required  number 


28  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

of  leaves  to  ensure  a  clear  stem  for  insertion  in  the  soil,  and  dibble  them 
in  a  shallow  box  of  light  soil,  in  well-drained  pots,  or  in  a  cold  frame. 
Put  a  hand-light  over  the  cuttings  if  they  are  rooted  in  the  open  ground, 
and  plant  out  in  the  autumn.  Some  growers  layer  them  much  in  the 
same  way  as  the  Carnation  is  increased.  Another  simple  way  is,  in  the 
autumn  when  the  clumps  have  become  matted,  to  simply  part  them 
and  replant  the  best  portions  (see  illustrations).  The  best  laced  pinks 
are  :  Boiard,  Clara,  Emerald,  Empress  of  India,  Eurydice,  Harry  Hooper, 
Modesty,  The  Rector.  The  single  pinks  are  very  sweetly  scented  and 
prettily  coloured ;  they  are  easily  raised  from  seed  sown  in  a  shallow 
box  filled  with  light  soil.  Place  it  in  a  cold  frame. 

Poppies,  Oriental. — During  recent  years  considerable  attention  has 
been  given  to  the  beautiful  large  herbaceous  or  Oriental  Poppies.  These 
are  noble  plants  for  the  border  and  are  varieties  of  Papaver  orientale. 
As  they  are  very  deep  rooting,  the  soil  for  them  must  be  deeply  culti- 
vated and  well  manured,  and  the  plants  must  be  given  plenty  of  room 
to  develop.  For  the  front  part  of  the  herbaceous  or  mixed  border  they 
are  excellent.  When  once  planted  they  are  best  left  undisturbed  for 
several  years.  These  Poppies  may  be  increased  by  seeds  sown  in  the 
open  garden  as  soon  as  ripe,  or  by  division  of  the  old  plants  in  autumn 
and  spring.  The  type  has  large,  scarlet  flowers,  but  there  are  a  number 
of  varieties  with  beautiful  salmon-pink  blossoms,  and  others  of  varying 
shades  of  pink  and  rose.  The  following  are  all  good  :  Jenny  Mawson, 
soft  pink ;  Blush  Queen,  pale  pink ;  Princess  Victoria  Louise,  salmon- 
rose  ;  Royal  Scarlet ;  Silver  Queen,  silver-pink. 

Poppies,  Iceland,  are  varieties  of  Papaver  nudicaule,  and  very  beauti- 
ful they  are  for  rockwork,  beds,  or  the  front  parts  of  the  herbaceous  border. 
Although  perennials  they  are  best  treated  as  biennials ;  i.e.  the  seed  is 
sown  outdoors  about  June  and  the  plants  thus  raised  flower  the  following 
year,  from  May  till  August.  If  possible  sow  the  seed  where  the  plants 
are  to  flower,  as  they  do  not  transplant  easily.  Well-drained  soil  is 
essential  for  Iceland  Poppies.  They  are  ideal  flowers  for  cutting,  and 
there  are  many  beautiful  shades  of  colour  among  them.  Seeds  of  sepa- 
rate or  mixed  colours  can  be  purchased.  Brick  red,  yellow,  orange, 
pink,  and  white  are  the  most  popular  shades.  Height  18  inches  to 
2  feet. 

Poppies,  Shirley. — This  fragile  and  prettily  coloured  annual  race 
deserves  a  paragraph  to  itself.  It  will  interest  gardeners  to  know 
the  origin  of  this  dainty  race.  They  were  raised  by  the  Rev.  Mr. 
Wilks,  Vicar  of  Shirley,  near  Croydon,  and  secretary  of  the  Royal  Horti- 
cultural Society — hence  the  name.  Mr.  Wilks  says  :  "  My  name  may 
have  become  known  throughout  the  world  as  secretary  of  the  Royal 
Horticultural  Society,  but  my  Shirley  Poppies  are  even  more  widely 
known,  and  that  far  more  deservedly,  for  there  is  no  country  under  the 
sun  (except  perhaps  Patagonia  and  Thibet)  to  which  I  have  not  sent 
seeds  gratuitously,  and  I  am  told  that  in  the  streets  of  Yokohama  and 
of  Rio,  of  Vancouver  and  of  Melbourne,  of  Paris,  Shanghai,  and  Berlin, 
of  Cairo,  Philadelphia,  and  Madrid,  Shirley  Poppies  are  freely  advertised 


*p- 


^ 


II 


THE   PINK-FLOWERED    ORIENTAL   POPPY,   JENNY 
MAW  SON. 


GROUPS   OF   GARDEN   FLOWERS  29 

for  sale.  They  arose  in  this  way :  In  1880  I  noticed,  in  a  waste  corner 
of  my  garden  abutting  on  the  fields,  a  patch  of  the  common  Wild  Field 
Poppy  (Papaver  Rhceas),  one  solitary  flower  of  which  had  a  very  narrow 
edge  of  white.  This  one  flower  I  marked,  and  saved  the  seed  of  it  alone. 
Next  year  out  of  perhaps  two  hundred  plants  I  had  four  or  five  on  which 
all  the  flowers  were  edged.  The  best  of  these  were  marked  and  the  seed 
saved,  and  so  for  several  years,  the  flowers  all  the  while  getting  a  larger 
infusion  of  white  to  tone  down  the  red  until  they  arrived  at  quite  pale 
pink,  and  one  plant  absolutely  pure  white.  I  then  set  myself  to  change 
the  black  central  portions  of  the  flowers  from  black  to  yellow  or  white, 
and  having  at  last  fixed  a  strain  with  petals  varying  in  colour  from  the 
brightest  scarlet  to  pure  white,  with  all  shades  of  pink  between  and  all 
varieties  of  flakes  and  edged  flowers  also,  but  all  having  yellow  or  white 
stamens,  anthers,  and  pollen,  and  a  white  base.  ...  My  ideal  is  to  get 
a  yellow  P.  Rhceas,  and  I  have  already  obtained  many  distinct  shades 
of  salmon.  The  Shirley  Poppies  have  thus  been  obtained  simply  by 
selection  and  elimination.  By  '  selection  '  I  mean  the  saving  seed  only 
from  selected  flowers,  and  by  '  elimination  '  the  instant  and  total  eradica- 
tion of  any  plant  that  bears  inferior  flowers.  .  .  .  Let  it  be  noticed  that 
the  Shirley  Poppies  (i)  are  single ;  (2)  always  have  a  white  base,  with 
(3)  yellow  or  white  stamens,  anthers,  or  pollen ;  (4)  never  have  the 
smallest  particle  of  black  about  them.  Double  poppies  and  poppies  with 
black  centres  may  be  greatly  admired,  but  they  are  not  Shirley  Poppies. 
It  is  rather  interesting  to  reflect  that  the  gardens  of  the  whole  world — 
rich  man's  and  poor  man's  alike— are  to-day  furnished  with  Poppies 
which  are  the  direct  descendants  of  one  single  capsule  of  seed  raised  in 
the  garden  of  Shirley  Vicarage  so  lately  as  August  1880.  Poppy  seed 
should  be  sown  in  the  autumn  or  in  the  spring,  sowing  very  thinly  because 
the  seed  is  small,  and  thinning  out  the  seedlings  to  fully  six  inches  apart. 
Fine  flowers  in  abundance  and  over  a  long  season  can  never  be  expected 
unless  the  seed  is  sown  thinly,  the  seedlings  well  thinned  out,  and  the 
dying  flowers  picked  off  to  prevent  seed  forming  and  weakening  the 
plant."  Any  good  garden  soil. 

Primroses  and  Polyanthuses.— The  Primrose  in  its  many  forms 
is  a  flower  for  all  gardens.  All  the  varieties  are  derived  from  the  wild 
Primula  vulgaris  of  grassy  banks  and  copse.  Raising  seedlings  is  a  very 
interesting  pastime,  and  the  seed  germinates  readily  when  sown  in  March 
or  April  in  a  cold  frame,  or  even  in  the  open  ground,  but  when  in  a 
frame  the  seedlings  are  more  under  control.  Miss  Jekyll,  in  Wood 
and  Garden,  alludes  to  the  beautiful  bunch  Primroses,  which  are  such 
excellent  garden  plants,  as  follows :  "  The  big  yellow  and  white 
bunch  Primroses  are  delightful  room  flowers,  beautiful,  and  of  sweetest 
scent.  When  full  grown  the  flower-stalks  are  ten  inches  long  and 
more.  Among  the  seedlings  there  are  always  a  certain  number  that 
are  worthless.  These  are  pounced  upon  as  soon  as  they  show  their 
bloom,  and  cut  up  for  greenery  to  go  with  the  cut  flowers,  leaving  the 
root-stalk  with  its  middle  foliage  and  cutting  away  the  roots  and  any 
rough  outside  leaves."  And  at  p.  216,  in  a  charming  description  of  the 


3o  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

"  Primrose  Garden  "  at  Munstead,  this  useful  type  of  garden  flower  is 
fully  described.  The  Munstead  Primroses  "  are,  broadly  speaking,  white 
and  yellow  varieties  of  the  strong  bunch-flowered  or  Polyanthus  kind, 
but  they  vary  in  detail  so  much,  in  form,  colour,  habit,  arrangement, 
and  size  of  eye  and  shape  of  edge,  that  one  year  thinking  it  might  be 
useful  to  classify  them  I  tried  to  do  so,  but  gave  it  up  after  writing  out 
the  characters  of  sixty  classes  !  Their  possible  variation  seems  endless. 
Every  year  among  the  seedlings  there  appear  a  number  of  charming 
flowers  with  some  new  development  of  size,  or  colour  of  flower,  or  beauty 
of  foliage,  and  yet  all  within  the  narrow  bounds  of  white  and  yellow 
Primroses.  Their  time  of  flowering  is  much  later  than  that  of  the  true 
or  single-stalked  Primrose.  They  come  into  bloom  early  in  April,  though 
a  certain  number  of  poorly  developed  flowers  generally  come  much 
earlier,  and  they  are  at  their  best  in  the  last  two  weeks  of  April  and  the 
first  days  of  May.  When  the  bloom  wanes,  and  is  nearly  overtopped 
by  the  leaves,  the  time  has  come  that  I  find  best  for  dividing  and  re- 
planting. The  plants  then  seem  willing  to  divide,  some  about  falling 
apart  in  one's  hands,  and  the  new  roots  may  be  seen  just  beginning  to 
form  at  the  base  of  the  crown.  The  plants  are  at  the  same  time  relieved 
of  the  crowded  mass  of  flower-stem,  and,  therefore,  of  the  exhausting 
effort  of  forming  seed,  a  severe  drain  on  their  strength.  A  certain  number 
will  not  have  made  more  than  one  strong  crown,  and  a  few  single-crown 
plants  have  not  flowered  ;  these  of  course  do  not  divide.  ..."  Writing 
of  the  time  of  sowing  the  seed,  the  author  says  :  "As  nearly  as  I  can 
make  out,  it  is  well  in  heavy  soils  to  sow  when  ripe,  and  in  light  ones 
to  wait  until  March.  In  some  heavy  soils  Primroses  stand  for  two  years 
without  division ;  whereas  in  light  ones,  such  as  mine,  they  take  up  the 
food  within  reach  in  a  much  shorter  time,  so  that  by  the  second  year 
the  plant  has  become  a  crowded  mass  of  weak  crowns  that  only  throw 
up  poor  flowers,  and  are  by  then  so  much  exhausted  that  they  are  not 
worth  dividing  afterwards.  In  my  own  case,  having  tried  both  ways, 
I  find  the  March  sown  ones  the  best.  The  seed  is  sown  in  boxes  in  cold 
frames,  and  pricked  out  again  into  boxes  when  large  enough  to  handle. 
The  seedlings  are  planted  out  in  June,  when  they  seem  to  go  on  without 
any  check  whatever,  and  are  just  right  for  blooming  next  spring."  These 
remarks  by  an  authority  upon  the  subject  must  be  helpful  to  readers. 
The  bunch-flowered  Primroses  are  of  many  colours,  soft  and  dainty 
tones,  pure  white,  intense  orange,  and  so  forth.  The  Oxlip  is  generally 
supposed  to  be  a  natural  hybrid  between  the  Primrose  and  the  Cowslip 
though  there  is  some  doubt  about  this.  It  is  found  wild  in  a  few  places, 
notably  the  Bardfield  district  of  Essex. 

The  late  Mr.  Wilson  of  Weybridge  raised  a  race  of  blue  Primroses, 
not  the  blue  of  the  Gentian,  but  a  very  beautiful  series  of  colours,  some- 
times purple  blue  with  crimson  eye,  and  several  of  the  varieties  have  been 
named,  such  as  Oakwood  Blue,  all  being  well  placed  against  moss-covered 
stones  to  bring  out  the  distinctive  flower  colouring.  A  deep  red  or 
crimson  is  a  good  colour  to  obtain. 

The  double  Primroses  are  not  easy  to  manage.    They  are  more  sue- 


THE   DOUBLE    WHITE   SWEET   ROCKET. 


GROUPS   OF   GARDEN   FLOWERS  31 

cessful  in  a  moist  climate,  such  as  that  of  Ireland,  than  in  drier  positions. 
The  old  Pompadour,  a  perfectly  double  crimson  flower,  is  delightful ; 
it  is  a  quaint,  old-fashioned  Primrose,  and  happy  is  he  who  can  get  large 
tufts  of  it.  Unfortunately  it  is  not  a  success  in  the  south.  This  variety, 
more  than  any  other,  requires  a  moist  climate  and  cool  soil.  Double 
lilac,  lavender,  white,  and  yellow  are  very  charming  also. 

Pyre  thrums.— Among  the  many  denizens  of  the  herbaceous  border, 
few,  if  any,  are  capable  of  giving  such  a  wealth  of  graceful  and  beautiful 
coloured  flowers  for  a  small  outlay  of  time  and  money  as  the  Pyre- 
thrums,  yet  they  are  not  grown  nearly  so  extensively  as  their  many 
merits  demand.  In  addition  to  being  first-class  subjects  for  garden 
decoration,  they  are  splendid  for  cutting,  their  long  stems  and  graceful 
forms  rendering  them  exceedingly  attractive  when  arranged  in  tall  vases. 
The  range  of  colours  now  obtainable  in  these  plants  is  so  large  that  all 
tastes  may  be  satisfied  and  both  double  and  single  flowers  of  all  colours 
may  be  procured. 

As  regards  soil,  the  Pyrethrum  is  not  at  all  particular,  although,  like 
most  other  plants,  it  delights  in  a  deeply-worked,  well-enriched  rooting 
medium,  and  if  this  is  of  a  rather  cool  nature  so  much  the  better.  Where 
the  soil  is  light  and  inclined  to  be  sandy  it  may  be  rendered  suitable 
by  the  liberal  addition  of  cow  manure,  and  if  the  plants  are  mulched 
during  hot  weather  they  will  give  good  returns  in  soil  of  this  description. 

Planting  may  safely  be  done  at  any  time  during  the  winter  until  the 
end  of  February,  providing  the  soil  is  not  frozen  or  over-wet,  and  care 
should  be  taken  to  shake  some  fine  soil  well  among  the  mass  of  fibrous 
roots,  otherwise  they  will  get  matted  together  and  not  take  to  the  new 
soil  so  well.  In  the  border  a  good  effect  may  be  obtained  by  planting 
triangular  groups  composed  of  three  plants  of  one  variety,  and  where 
they  are  used  for  filling  large  beds,  it  is  best  to  use  only  one  or  two  sorts 
of  the  same  colour. 

During  the  growing  season,  and  especially  when  the  flowers  are  just 
beginning  to  push  up  from  the  base,  in  May,  the  plants  are  benefited 
by  frequent  waterings  with  weak  liquid  manure.  Light  twiggy  stakes 
will  be  needed  to  support  the  flowers,  and  these  should  be  so  placed  that 
the  plant  retains  its  natural  and  graceful  outline.  Immediately  the 
flowers  have  become  shabby  they  should  be  cut  down  quite  close  to 
the  ground,  a  mulching  of  well-decayed  manure  placed  round  the  plants 
and  the  waterings  with  liquid  manure  continued.  If  this  is  done  a 
second  crop  of  most  welcome  flowers  will  be  produced  in  the  autumn. 
Propagation  is  easily  effected  by  dividing  the  old  clumps  when  they 
are  lifted  for  replanting  in  the  winter  months. 

The  following  are  all  excellent  varieties  which  may  be  thoroughly 
relied  upon  :  Doubles — Aphrodite,  pure  white  ;  Carl  Vogt,  white,  early  ; 
Empress  Queen,  blush ;  Ivonne  Cayeux,  primrose  yellow ;  King  Oscar, 
crimson-scarlet,  and  Lord  Rosebery,  carmine-scarlet ;  Singles — Langport 
Scarlet,  rich  cardinal  scarlet,  new  ;  Cassiope,  crimson-purple  ;  Dorothy, 
flesh  colour  ;  Edna  May,  clear  pink,  and  James  Kelway,  crimson-scarlet. 

Rockets,   Sweet   or    Double.— These   are   delightful,   old-world 


32  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

flowers,  filled  with  fragrance.  A  famous  grower  of  them  in  Ireland,  the 
Rev.  Denis  Knox  of  Virginian  Rectory,  says,  in  The  Garden :  "  I  at 
present  possess  in  quantity  six  varieties  :  the  French  white  ;  the  Scotch, 
or  Eglinton,  as  it  is  often  called  (this  kind  has,  I  may  say,  always  a  quaint 
trace  of  lilac  at  the  top  of  its  spike) ;  the  true  old  pure  double  white ; 
the  pale  lilac,  the  most  vigorous  grower  of  all ;  the  true  old  lilac,  now 
nearly  extinct  (I  was  searching  for  it  for  thirty  years,  and  at  last  dis- 
covered it,  to  my  great  joy.  in  an  old  garden  in  Westmeath) ;  and  the 
lower-growing,  shorter-spiked  purple.  This,  I  recollect,  used  to  be 
called  Parkes'  Rocket.  ...  I  have  had  (in  a  place  I  lived  at  thirty 
years  ago)  the  old  pure  white  and  the  old  lilac  twenty-four  inches  in 
spike.  Here  I  have  never  gone  beyond  nineteen  inches.  Many  people 
make  the  mistake  of  allowing  the  side  shoots  to  remain  on.  This  gives 
the  plant  rather  a  weedy  appearance,  and,  of  course,  takes  from  the 
length  and  majesty  of  the  main  spike.  Double  Rockets  are  essentially 
plants  for  rich,  deep,  moist  soils.  They  are  plants  that  cannot  be  left 
alone,  or  left  long  in  the  same  soil.  Every  third  year,  at  least,  they 
should  be  taken  up  and  divided,  placed  in  new  soil,  with  which  plenty 
of  well-rotted  cow  manure  and  some  lime  rubbish  have  been  incorporated. 
They  strike  very  freely  from  cuttings  put  down  as  soon  as  they  begin 
to  push  in  the  spring,  but  they  divide  so  satisfactorily  that  now  that  I 
have  plenty  of  them  I  do  not  go  to  the  trouble  of  making  cuttings. 
They  have  an  enemy  in  the  shape  of  a  nasty  white  grub,  which  attacks 
them  and  eats  out  the  blossom-spikes  when  they  are  about  nine  inches 
or  so  high.  It  must  be  searched  for  and  destroyed.  The  curling  of 
the  leaves  infallibly  shows  its  presence.  It  would  be,  indeed,  a  pity 
were  such  delightful  flowers  as  double  Rockets  to  pass  out  of  existence." 

Solomon's  Seal. — This  graceful  plant  is  always  welcome.  It  de- 
lights in  partly  shaded  garden  borders,  in  nooks  amongst  shrubs,  and 
the  edges  of  woodland.  It  may  be  grouped  with  the  poet's  Daffodil 
and  such  wood-loving  plants  as  Lily  of  the  Valley.  Solomon's  Seal  has  a 
habit  of  growth  and  a  kind  of  beauty  that  are  entirely  its  own.  The 
stem  rises  nearly  upright  and  then  bends  over  in  a  flattened  arch  that 
admirably  displays  the  clusters  of  greenish-white  bell-flowers  that  spring 
from  the  axils  of  the  leaves.  It  is  quite  one  of  the  best  plants  to  put 
in  shady  corners.  Any  ordinary  soil.  May  flowering. 

Stocks. — Stocks  are  amongst  the  most  popular  of  flowers,  and  no 
wonder,  when  their  beautiful  colour  and  delicious  fragrance  are  remem- 
bered. Moreover,  they  are  of  easy  culture,  so  that  amateurs  can  grow 
them  to  perfection.  Planted  in  beds,  such  choice  colours  as  scarlet, 
white,  rose,  and  purple,  are  very  telling,  and  borders,  composed  of  half 
a  dozen  or  more  distinct  colours,  are  also  charming,  and  last  in  full 
beauty  for  a  long  period. 

The  Ten-Week  Stock  is  the  most  popular,  and  is  quite  easy  to  grow. 
The  seed  may  be  sown  at  any  time  from  February  to  May,  March  being 
the  best  month.  Sow  in  shallow  boxes  or  pans,  in  a  compost  of  light 
loamy  soil,  leaf-mould,  and  silver  sand,  covering  the  seed  lightly,  and 
making  the  surface  firm  and  level.  Sprinkle  with  water  from  a  fine 


GROUPS  OF  GARDEN  FLOWERS     33 

rosed  can,  and  stand  the  boxes  or  pans  in  a  warm  moist  house  or  frame. 
A  temperature  of  55  degrees  is  suitable.  When  the  seedlings  appear  admit 
air  liberally  but  cautiously,  and  water  them  carefully,  as  if  kept  too 
wet  they  will  damp  off.  When  the  young  plants  can  be  handled,  prick 
them  out  into  other  boxes  and  place  them  in  a  sunny  frame,  shading 
them  from  bright  sunshine,  giving  them  as  much  air  as  the  state  of  the 
weather  will  allow,  and  keeping  the  soil  comfortably  moist.  Thus  treated 
they  will  grow  quickly  and  strongly,  and  will  be  ready  for  planting  out 
in  open  beds  or  borders  early  in  May. 

Stocks  require  good  rich  soil,  which  should  be  made  firm  by  treading, 
and  the  seedlings  should  be  planted  nine  inches  apart,  and  the  soil  pressed 
firmly  round  the  roots.  In  planting  amateurs  often  err  in  selecting  only 
the  tallest  and  strongest  plants,  and  discarding  the  dwarfer  ones.  The 
latter  generally  have  the  most  fibrous  roots,  and  as  a  rule  produce  a  far 
greater  percentage  of  double  flowers  than  the  former.  After  planting, 
mulch  between  them  with  very  short  stable  litter  or  old  mushroom  bed 
manure,  and  well  soak  the  ground  with  water.  The  mulching  will  keep 
the  roots  cool  and  moist  in  hot  dry  weather,  and  this  is  of  the  greatest 
importance.  When  in  active  growth  water  them,  say,  once  in  ten  days 
with  weak  manure  water,  or  sprinkle  a  little  artificial  manure  on  the 
surface  and  water  it  in.  For  a  late  autumn  flowering  batch  seed  may  be 
sown  in  a  warm  frame  in  the  middle  of  April.  Sow  the  seed  thinly, 
thin  out  the  young  plants  freely,  and  encourage  a  rapid  and  vigorous 
growth  by  a  liberal  supply  of  moisture  both  at  the  roots  and  in  the 
atmosphere.  There  is  now  a  new  race  of  Stocks  known  as  Intermediate, 
being  in  habit  and  appearance  midway  between  the  Brompton  and 
Ten- Week  Stocks.  The  treatment  is  as  advised  for  Ten- Week  varieties. 
They  branch  freely  and  flower  over  a  long  period. 

East  Lothian  Stocks  are  very  beautiful,  and  perhaps  the  most 
fragrant  of  all.  They  require  rich  soil  and  good  cultivation,  but  are 
extremely  hardy.  Seed  for  the  earliest  batch  of  plants  should  be  sown 
in  May  under  a  hand-light  or  in  a  frame  in  a  shaded  portion.  Sow 
very  thinly,  and  thin  the  young  plants  out  to  two  inches  apart  when 
large  enough.  Keep  them  well-watered  and  aired,  and  when  the  second 
pair  of  rough  leaves  are  formed  pot  them  into  small  pots  in  good  loamy 
soil,  a  little  well-rotted  manure,  and  some  coarse  sand.  Stand  them  on 
ashes  in  a  sunny,  open  position,  removing  them  to  a  cold  pit  or  frame 
in  November,  and  exposing  them  fully  in  fine  weather.  Protect  from 
severe  frost  with  mats,  and  keep  the  soil  in  the  pots  on  the  dry  side 
during  winter.  Assist  with  weak  liquid  manure-water  in  spring  and  plant 
them  out  in  a  bed  or  border  in  deeply-dug,  well-enriched  soil  at  the 
beginning  of  April.  Mulch  and  keep  the  roots  moist  and  they  will  grow 
into  dense  plants,  and  present  a  gorgeous  appearance  throughout  June, 
July,  and  August.  A  portion  of  the  plants  may  be  potted  into  4^  or  6-inch 
pots  and  allowed  to  bloom  there.  If  kept  in  a  quite  cool  temperature 
they"  will  flower  profusely  and  make  a  brave  show  in  the  greenhouse  or 
conservatory  in  May  and  June.  Seed  may  also  be  sown  in  gentle  heat 
in  March  or  April,  and  the  plants  treated  as  advised  for  the  Ten- Week 

C 


34  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

Stock.  The  colours  of  the  flowers  are  crimson,  scarlet,  white,  and 
purple. 

Giant  or  Brompton  Stocks  have  the  finest  spikes  of  bloom,  often 
from  fifteen  to  eighteen  inches  in  length,  and  very  massive ;  the  plants 
being  quite  hardy  may  be  grown  by  those  who  do  not  possess  a  frame. 
Sow  the  seed  in  fine  soil  in  a  cool  sheltered  place  out  of  doors  early  in 
June,  prick  out  the  young  plants  when  large  enough,  and  plant  them  in 
their  final  quarters  in  August.  They  must  have  a  sheltered  nook  or 
corner,  and  be  planted  in  loamy  soil  that  contains  some  old  mortar. 
Give  them  plenty  of  room,  and  if  the  winter  is  not  exceptionally  severe 
they  will  make  a  brave  show  in  May. 

Sunflowers. — The  Sunflower  is  as  familiar  in  the  garden  as  the 
crimson  Paeony  or  clove  Carnation.  A  child  can  grow  a  Sunflower, 
because  it  only  wants  soil  of  some  kind  and  sunshine.  There  are  two 
distinct  groups,  annual  and  perennial.  The  annual  Sunflower  is  Helian- 
thus  annuuSj  of  which  there  are  many  forms,  some  with  huge  double 
flowers,  others  of  the  same  dimensions  but  single,  and  a  few  quite  dwarf 
in  comparison,  the  bright  apple-green  leaved,  yellow-flowered  H.  cucu- 
merifolius  being  an  example.  But  one  of  the  prettiest  of  all  annual 
Sunflowers  is  called  Primrose  or  Primrose  Dame ;  the  flower  is  not  large 
or  very  coarse,  and  the  plant  is  not  more  than  three,  or  in  strong  soils 
three  and  a  half  feet  high,  its  colour  is  clear  primrose  yellow,  set  off  with 
an  almost  black  centre.  A  new  variety  with  a  crimson-brown  centre 
has  recently  been  introduced,  and  is  very  effective  in  the  garden. 

For  the  quite  small  garden  and  larger  places  to  form  free  graceful 
groups  of  colour  in  the  autumn  the  perennial  Sunflowers  are  of  most 
value,  and  several  varieties  have  been  raised  of  recent  years.  This 
group  is  conspicuous  for  its  graceful  growth,  tall  willowy  stems  and 
yellow  flowers  ;  and  they  are  so  robust  that  the  roots  run  here  and  there 
and  everywhere,  leaving  one  spot  when  the  soil  is  exhausted  to  find  fresh 
pasture.  Some  are  more  aggressive  than  others,  the  variety  raised  by 
the  late  Mr.  H.  G.  Moon,  and  named  after  him,  not  having  this  charac- 
teristic so  pronounced  as  many  others.  The  common  kind  is  H.  multi- 
ftorus,  which  has  long  remained  a  good  border  flower ;  and  its  variety 
ft.  plena,  which  has  quite  double  yellow  flowers,  is  as  well  known.  These 
are  not  so  tall  or  willowy  as  H.  decapelalus ,  which  will  reach  a  height  of 
about  six  feet ;  H.  giganteus,  H.  l&tiflorus,  H.  orgyalis,  a  very  graceful 
and  beautiful  flower,  and  H.  rigidus  Miss  Mellish.  The  last-named  is 
about  six  feet  high,  very  strong,  leafy,  and  with  large  flowers.  A  group 
of  this  upon  the  lawn  is  very  handsome  in  the  autumn.  We  have  seen 
the  perennial  Sunflowers  made  excellent  use  of  for  planting  in  ugly 
corners,  and  where  more  delicate  perennials  would  fail.  The  plants 
are  easily  increased  by  division  of  the  roots  in  spring,  when  new  growth 
is  beginning. 

Sweet  Williams. — These  showy  hardy  biennials  are  of  the  easiest 
possible  culture.  They  are  well  suited  for  shrubbery  borders,  masses 
in  beds,  the  herbaceous  borders  and,  in  fact,  almost  anywhere  that  the 
soil  is  reasonably  good.  For  most  amateurs  a  good  mixed  strain  is  best 


GROUPS  OF  GARDEN  FLOWERS     35 

if  purchased  from  a  reliable  seedsman ;  but  for  those  who  desire  distinct 
shades,  Pink  Beauty  (which  has  delicate  pink  flowers),  Scarlet  Beauty, 
and  Dark  Crimson  are  recommended.  There  is  also  the  Auricula-eyed 
in  variety,  which  possess  rich  colours,  with  a  white  eye  and  margin. 
The  seeds  should  be  sown  in  May  either  in  the  open  ground,  pans,  or 
boxes.  Thoroughly  drained  soil  is  essential,  as  the  plants  are  liable  to 
suffer  in  wet  ground  during  the  winter. 

Verbenas. — Flower  lovers  rejoice  in  a  revival  of  the  Verbena,  one 
of  those  good  plants  almost  annihilated  by  fungoid  disease,  the  result  of 
weakened  growth  through  over-propagation,  or  propagation  in  forcing 
temperature  to  insure  quick  rooting  of  the  cuttings.  Of  course  the 
Verbena  is  not  a  hardy  plant,  but  it  is  much  too  good  a  flower  to  be 
allowed  to  pass  into  disuse.  Some  of  the  old  self-coloured  varieties 
are  still  to  be  had ;  and  those  with  a  scarcely  defined  eye,  or  very  small 
white  eye,  are  much  to  be  preferred  to  those  of  more  recent  raising  with 
large  white  centres.  The  large  white  eye  spoils  the  plants  in  the  mass 
— and  the  Verbena  is  essentially  for  massing — giving  them  a  chopped-up 
look  that  certainly  detracts  from  their  beauty.  The  danger  with  the 
garden  varieties  is  that  of  getting  them  too  large  and  coarse.  What  is 
wanted  is  strong  constitution  and  short  growth.  Seed  can  be  obtained 
in  mixed  or  in  distinct  colours — that  is,  a  packet  of  a  certain  colour  will 
produce  it  in  the  seedling.  Always  choose  as  mentioned  good  selfs,  pure 
clear  shades,  nothing  "  spotty  "  or  crude.  Seedlings  are  unquestionably 
stronger  than  cuttings.  Sow  the  seed  in  March  thinly  in  shallow  pans, 
well  drained  and  filled  with  sandy  soil.  It  is  well  where  seeds  are  few 
to  make  shallow  holes  equally  all  over  the  surface  of  the  soil  with  the 
point  of  a  finger  and  to  put  the  seed  into  each,  as  the  plants  later  on 
get  plenty  of  space.  They  become  quite  strong  before  it  is  needful  to 
dibble  them  off  into  other  pans,  or  shallow  boxes,  or  singly  into  small  pots 
before  planting  out  in  May.  A  temperature  of  about  60  degrees  is  neces- 
sary for  raising  the  seed.  Of  course,  in  the  case  of  named  varieties,  it 
is  necessary  to  raise  them  from  cuttings,  and  a  variety  called  Miss  Will- 
mott,  with  large  rose-pink  flowers,  must  be  treated  in  this  way.  Warley, 
also  raised  by  Miss  Willmott,  is  a  brilliant  scarlet,  and  very  free-flowering. 
Cuttings  of  Verbenas  should  be  put  in  a  cold  frame  in  August,  or  even 
a  bell-glass  will  suffice.  Select  young,  strong,  healthy  shoots  without 
flower  buds.  One  may  use  either  a  shallow  pan  or  a  pot  for  the  cuttings. 
Put  them  two  inches  apart  in  almost  pure  sand,  and  keep  them  near 
the  glass  in  a  temperature  of  45  degrees.  Under  these  conditions  and 
very  careful  watering,  there  should  be  little  damping  off.  Cuttings  in  a 
temperature  of  60  degrees  strike  easily  in  spring. 


THE    MIXED    BORDER 


IN  the  gardens  of  to-day  the  mixed  border  is  not  forgotten. 
In  it  are  plants  that  remain  beautiful  for  a  longer  period 
than  beds  filled  with  summer-flowering  plants,  bright  for  a 
few  short  weeks.  Moreover,  the  possession  of  a  beautiful 
mixed  border  is  not  exclusively  confined  to  the  wealthy,  for 
the  humblest  amateur  or  cottager  may  produce  the  most 
delightful  pictures  without  the  aid  of  a  single  pane  of  glass 
in  the  rearing  or  winter-protection  of  his  favourites,  whereas 
in  the  culture  of  bedding-plants  glass  shelter  is  essential 
during  the  winter  and  spring.  Where  the  larger  herbaceous 
subjects  are  under-planted  with  bulbs,  clumps  of  Snowdrops 
poise  their  white,  drooping  flowers  above  the  bare  earth  in 
the  earliest  days  of  February,  followed  by  the  golden  Crocuses 
and  blue  Glory  of  the  Snow  (Chionodoxa),  spring  Snowflakes 
and  Daffodils,  yellow  and  white.  As  the  season  advances 
the  border  gains  in  beauty  day  by  day,  and  loses  but  little 
of  its  attractions  in  the  autumn  months,  when  the  peren- 
nial Sunflowers,  Michaelmas  Daisies,  Dahlias,  Sternbergias, 
Autumn  Crocuses  (Colchium),  and  other  late-blooming 
flowers  make  breadths  of  colour,  followed  later  by  the 
winter-blooming  Algerian  Iris  (/.  stylosa)  and  the  Christmas 
Rose.  As  regards  the  dimensions  of  the  mixed  border,  it 
must  be  impressed  upon  the  amateur  that  want  of  space 
should  not  deter  him  or  her  from  proceeding  with  its  forma- 
tion, for  even  in  a  plot  ten  feet  by  two  feet  it  is  quite  possible 
to  provide  a  pretty  show  of  colour  and  form.  Where  space 
is  no  object,  a  border  twelve  feet  or  fourteen  feet  in  breadth 
by  one  hundred  yards  in  length  may  well  be  arranged  for  ; 
but,  whether  large  or  small,  its  formation  should  be  pro- 
ceeded upon  with  equal  care.  There  is,  unfortunately,  a 
very  general  impression  amongst  amateurs  that  hardy  plants, 
of  which  the  mixed  border  should  mainly  consist,  can  grow 
anywhere,  and  are  indifferent  to  such  matters  as  soil,  situa- 
tion, and  ordinary  attention.  This,  however,  is  far  from 
being  the  case,  and  where,  under  this  belief,  they  are  planted 
in  shallow,  hungry  soil,  in  dense  shade,  in  exposed,  wind- 


A    MIXED   BORDER   BESIDE   A    SUNK   LAWN. 


BORDER    OF    SIMPLE    MIXED    FLOWERS    IN    AN    OLD 
COUNTRY  GARDEN. 


THE   MIXED   BORDER  37 

swept  positions,  or  are  left  with  their  wants  unprovided  for, 
failure  is  certain  to  ensue.  The  aim  of  the  true  lover  of  the 
garden  should  be  the  attainment  of  the  fullest  perfection  of 
vigorous  health  in  each  plant  grown,  and  for  this  reason  the 
border  should  be  well  made  and  thoughtfully  planted. 

Soil. — In  order  to  secure  the  best  results  the  soil  must  be 
deep,  rich,  and  well-drained.  In  shallow  soil  the  roots  of 
the  plants  are  parched  in  hot  summers,  in  poor  soil  stunted 
growth  proclaims  lack  of  vigour,  and  where  stagnant  mois- 
ture lies  about  the  roots  in  the  winter  those  plants  that  do 
not  perish  lose  vitality.  To  construct  a  mixed  border  close 
to  a  hedge  is  courting  disaster,  for  the  hungry  roots  of  the 
Laurel,  Privet,  Yew,  or  Thorn,  of  which  it  is  composed,  soon 
appropriate  with  their  all-pervading  fibres  the  sustenance 
provided  for  the  herbaceous  plants,  and  thus  effectually  pre- 
vent them  from  attaining  their  rightful  proportions.  The 
most  suitable  soil  for  the  border  is  sound,  fibrous  loam ; 
but  this  is,  in  some  localities,  difficult  to  obtain,  in  which  case 
the  best  must  be  made  of  what  is  nearer  at  hand.  Both 
heavy  and  light  soil  can  be  so  modified  by  additions  as  to 
render  each  capable  of  growing  well  the  bulk  of  the  plants 
required  for  the  mixed  border.  Thus  heavy  soil  may  be 
lightened  by  a  liberal  addition  of  road-grit,  old  mortar-rubbish, 
burnt  earth,  wood  ashes,  and  coarse  sand,  which  will  tend 
to  render  it  porous,  while  light  soil  can  be  given  greater 
sustaining  qualities  by  an  admixture  of  leaf -mould,  decayed 
vegetable  refuse,  well-pulverised  clay,  and  a  small  proportion 
of  peat.  The  border  cannot  well  be  too  deep.  Three  feet 
is  none  too  deep  for  many  of  the  stronger-growing  herbaceous 
plants,  which  send  their  roots  downwards  to  a  great  distance. 
At  all  events,  a  depth  of  two  feet  should,  i?  possible,  be 
secured.  The  early  autumn  is  the  best  time  for  making  the 
mixed  border,  as  it  is  then  ready  for  the  reception  of  the 
plants  during  October  or  November.  After  seeing  that 
adequate  drainage  is  provided  where  the  soil  at  the  bottom 
of  the  bed  is  of  a  retentive  nature,  the  border  should  be  filled 
in  with  the  prepared  soil,  the  lower  half  being  plentifully 
dressed  with  fresh  manure,  farm-yard  manure  being  used 
in  light  soils  and  stable  manure  in  heavy.  The  upper  half 
of  the  border  should  also  be  given  a  liberal  addition  of 
manure  but  this,  with  which  the  roots  will  first  come  into 
contact,  should  be  well-rotted  and  not  fresh  as  advocated 
for  the  lower  half.  With  herbaceous  plants  a  good  start  is 
more  than  half  the  battle,  and  when  placed  in  such  a  border 
they  will  grow  vigorously  from  the  first  and  attain  their 


3  8  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

fullest  development,  a  result  that  is  not  to  be  anticipated 
where  they  are  planted  in  borders  not  richly  stored  with 
food.  During  the  winter  a  mulch  or  covering  of  some  light 
material  that  is  not  liable  to  become  sodden  or  "  cake/'  will 
help  to  keep  the  warmth  in  the  soil  about  the  roots,  while 
a  mulch  of  light  manure  in  the  spring,  when  the  root  fibres 
are  stirring,  will  provide  them  with  nourishment  when  the 
manurial  agents  are  washed  into  the  ground  by  heavy  rains 
and  tend  to  keep  them  cool,  and  the  ground  from  cracking 
during  the  summer  heat.  A  slight  sprinkling  of  earth  over 
the  mulch  prevents  it  from  being  unsightly. 

Planting  the  Border. — Care  should  be  taken  that  the 
roots  are  well  spread  out  and  covered  with  fine  soil.  This 
is  too  often  neglected  and  the  plants  hurriedly  pushed  into 
holes  in  the  ground  with  their  roots  in  a  tangled  ball,  this 
naturally  retarding  the  start  into  growth  in  the  spring,  and 
giving  the  thoughtfully  planted  example  an  advantage  which  it 
generally  retains  during  the  whole  of  the  first  season.  After 
planting,  the  soil  should  be  made  firm  round  the  roots,  and 
during  the  first  winter  should  hard  frosts  occur,  as  these 
often  loosen  the  soil.  If  this  is  overlooked  the  roots  fre- 
quently suffer  from  subsequent  severe  weather.  Mixed 
borders  should  not  be  planted  in  lines  and  patterns,  but  the 
plants  arranged  in  informal  groups  varying  in  size  and  shape. 
When  treated  in  this  manner  the  breadths  of  colour  give  the 
border  the  natural  effect  that  should  be  aimed  at.  Tall 
subjects  should  as  a  rule  be  placed  at  the  back,  and  those 
of  lowliest  growth  in  the  front,  but  it  is  well,  here  and  there, 
to  allow  a  group  of  taller  plants  to  occupy  a  forward  posi- 
tion among  their  dwarfer  companions  since  this  adds  to 
the  charm  and  informality  of  the  border.  Single  plants 
should  never  be  dotted  about  promiscuously,  as  is  too  often 
the  case,  as  this  results  in  a  spotty  medley  of  hues.  The 
question  of  colour  is  one  that  should  be  considered  at 
planting-time,  care  being  taken  to  associate  only  such  plants 
as  are  harmonious  in  their  tints.  Scarlet  should  be  kept  away 
from  rose-purple,  but  scarlet  and  crimson  blend  well  with 
orange  and  yellow,  while  purple  and  blue  merge  into  pale 
lavender  and  white.  Plants  that  flower  early  in  the  summer, 
such  as  the  Oriental  Poppy  and  the  Lyre  Flower  (Dielytra  spec- 
tabihs),  and  afterwards  become  unsightly,  should  be  planted 
behind  later-growing  subjects,  such  as  Michaelmas  Daisies, 
Galegas,  &c.,  which  soon  hide  the  fading  leaves  with  their 
vigorous  shoots. 

Arrangement  of  Colour  and  Choice  of  Plants. — It  is  not 


THE   MIXED   BORDER  39 

an  easy  matter  to  keep  a  mixed  border  well-furnished 
throughout  most  months  of  the  year,  and  to  avoid  unsightly 
gaps,  but  there  are  always  ways  of  doing  it,  and  even  begin- 
ners should  not  be  afraid  of  facing  this  fact,  and  of  thinking 
out  ways  or  contriving  methods  so  as  to  have  as  few  empty 
places  as  may  be.  There  are  some  common-sense  considera- 
tions that  will  be  a  guide  to  the  choice  of  plants  to  use.  The 
first  and  most  obvious  is  that  the  plant  must  be  in  itself 
handsome  and  somewhat  showy.  The  next  and  one  of  the 
most  important,  is  that  it  should  remain  a  good  while  in 
flower.  Plants  that  are  in  flower  a  few  days  only  and  then 
are  done  are  of  little  use  in  the  mixed  border,  unless  their 
foliage  is  unusually  handsome  and  persistent,  in  which  case 
this  is  so  valuable  a  quality  that  it  may  redeem  the  plant. 

The  choice  of  kinds  being  decided  on,  the  way  in  which 
they  are  arranged  then  becomes  the  matter  of  chief  impor- 
tance. It  seems  a  natural  arrangement  to  use  the  creeping 
and  short-growing  plants  in  front,  and  the  next  in  stature 
behind  them,  and  the  tall  ones  at  the  back.  This  is  obviously 
a  good  general  rule,  but  if  not  varied  with  judicious  excep- 
tions the  result  will  be  very  monotonous.  Now  and  then  some 
of  the  tall  backward  groups  should  break  forward.  Think 
of  the  way  in  which  the  lateral  spurs  of  a  mountain  chain 
descend  into  the  valley  or  plain.  They  all  do  come  down 
to  the  level,  but  in  how  varied  and  beautiful  a  way.  Think 
of  this  and  then  think  of  the  dull  and  ugly  slope  of  a  slate 
roof,  and  then  think  of  your  border  and  apply  the  lesson. 

Then  try  and  get  hold  of  some  definite  scheme  of  colour- 
ing in  order  to  get  richness  and  brilliancy  with  dignity.  It 
saves  much  trouble  and  puzzling  at  planting-time  to  have 
a  regular  scheme  of  simple  progression  of  colour  from  end 
to  end,  so  that  if  you  have  a  yellow-flowered  thing  to  plant 
you  put  it  in  the  yellow  place  and  so  on.  In  no  way  can 
you  get  so  much  real  power  of  colour,  by  which  is  meant 
strength,  richness,  and  brilliancy,  as  by  beginning  very 
quietly  at  the  ends  of  the  borders  with  cool  bluish  foliage 
and  flowers  of  tender  colouring,  white,  pale  blue,  and  palest 
sulphur  yellow,  and  even  with  these  palest  pink,  beginning 
quite  piano,  then  feeling  the  way  to  full,  and  from  that  to 
stronger  yellows  ;  then  by  a  gradual  crescendo  to  rich  orange, 
and  from  that  to  the  forte  and  fortissimo  of  scarlets  and  strong 
blood-crimsons,  and  then  again  descending  in  the  scale  of 
strength  to  the  pale  and  tender  colouring. 

In  other  parts  of  the  garden  you  may  have  incidents  of 
brilliant  contrast,  which  are  especially  desirable  in  the  case 


40  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

of  strong  blue  flowers,  but  in  the  mixed  border  the  way  of 
having  the  rich  and  brilliant  harmony  approached  by  more 
delicate  colouring  can  scarcely  be  improved  upon,  and  so 
only  can  the  vice  of  garish  vulgarity  be  avoided. 

Plants  of  the  same  colouring  are  intergrouped  so  that  the 
red  group,  whether  early  or  late,  is  always  a  red  group,  and 
so  on  throughout.  There  are  ways  of  filling  gaps  by  training 
plants  down  to  fill  the  spaces.  For  this  use  Everlasting  Peas, 
tall  perennial  Sunflowers,  and  Rudbeckias  and  Dahlias  are 
specially  accommodating. 

For  filling  gaps  caused  by  the  dying  off  of  spring  flowering 
bulbs  there  is  nothing  better  than  half-hardy  or  hardy  annuals. 
These  may  either  be  sown  or  planted  in  colonies  between  the 
bulbs,  before  the  foliage  of  the  latter  has  died  down,  and 
will  quickly  make  a  good  display.  Larkspurs,  Mignonette, 
Night-scented  Stock,  Candytuft,  Alyssum,  Nigella,  Stocks, 
and  China  Asters  are  a  few  specially  adapted  for  the  purpose. 

The  accompanying  plan  of  a  herbaceous  border  will  act 
as  a  guide  to  the  beginner  in  varying  plants  for  effect.  The 
general  idea  of  the  arrangement  is  to  group  three,  five,  or 
seven  plants  together,  and  this  could  be  carried  out  with 
modifications  on  a  smaller  or  larger  scale. 

Nothing  is  so  destructive  of  good  effect  in  the  mixed 
border  as  the  old  unthinking  mixed  up  way.  Plants  of  the 
same  kind,  instead  of  being  dotted  at  equal  intervals,  should 
be  grouped  together,  each  group  dying  away  into  one  neigh- 
bouring group,  or  if  there  is  only  one  plant  of  a  kind  there 
is  no  harm  in  its  being  one  alone  if  only  it  is  in  its  right 
place. 

Of  course  there  are  other  ways  of  arranging  the  details 
of  a  mixed  border,  and  many  devices  that  may  be  used  to 
enhance  its  effect  at  the  different  seasons,  but  these  sugges- 
tions will  be  a  good  basis  of  operation  to  any  one  who  is 
without  experience  and  desires  general  instruction. 


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RE-PLANTING    OR    RENOVATING 
BORDERS 


WHERE  it  is  at  all  possible  the  whole  of  a  herbaceous  or 
mixed  border  should  be  deeply  dug  or  trenched  once  in 
three  years.  This  is  best  done  during  November.  All  the 
plants,  with  the  exception  of  such  kinds  as  Oriental  Poppies, 
Delphiniums,  Paeonies,  and  Irises,  should  be  lifted  and  laid 
on  one  side  whilst  the  work  is  being  done.  Put  plenty  of 
well-rolled  manure  in  the  lower  spit  when  trenching.  In 
replanting  divide  all  large  clumps  and  select  the  strong, 
outside  portions  of  such  plants  as  Phloxes,  Michaelmas 
Daisies,  and  perennial  Sunflowers,  as  these  will  give  much 
better  results  than  large  clumps. 

There  are  times  when  it  is  not  convenient  to  replant 
herbaceous  borders,  and  when  this  is  so,  renovation  should 
take  place  and  stimulating  food  be  provided  for  the  occu- 
pants. Such  free-growing  subjects  as  Michaelmas  Daisies, 
Polygonums,  Bocconias,  Helianthus,  Chrysanthemum  maxi- 
mum and  herbaceous  Phloxes  are  soil-exhausting,  and 
quickly  become  weak  if  not  fed.  When  a  border  is  replanted, 
the  weakening  of  the  centre  of  each  clump  is  avoided ;  but 
where  replanting  the  whole  is  not  convenient,  then  renova- 
tion must  be  resorted  to.  To  do  justice  to  the  plants,  so 
that  the  border,  as  a  whole,  does  not  suffer,  some  of  the 
weaker  plants  should  be  replanted.  Choose  a  few  vigorous 
root  growths  from  the  outer  portions  of  each.  Before  re- 
planting, remove  the  soil  i  foot  deep  and  as  wide,  assuming, 
of  course,  that  the  same  subject  is  to  occupy  the  same  site ; 
but  if  not,  there  will  be  no  occasion  to  remove  the  soil. 
Replace  the  old  soil  with  fresh.  If  not  convenient  to  bring 
in  quite  new  soil  to  the  border,  take  some  from  the  surface 
close  by,  replacing  it  with  that  removed  from  the  site,  adding 
a  fourth  part  of  manure  in  a  decayed  state.  The  whole  of 
the  border  should  be  forked  over  between  the  clumps — quite 
lightly,  of  course,  near  the  plants,  so  as  to  avoid  disturbing 
the  roots  too  much.  Where  space  exists  between  the  plants, 


42  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

dig  the  soil  over  deeply.  As  the  work  proceeds,  bury  a 
quantity  of  half-decayed  stable  manure  near  such  plants 
as  those  already  mentioned,  as  they  are  voracious  feeders, 
and  unless  constant  stimulants  are  applied,  the  growth 
becomes  weak,  and,  naturally,  a  poor  flower  crop  is  the 
result.  When  the  digging  of  the  border  is  completed,  a 
mulching,  2  inches  thick,  of  a  compost  made  up  of  decayed 
vegetable  refuse,  old  potting  soil,  leaf-mould,  wood-ashes, 
and  road-sweepings  should  be  given.  Such  a  covering  not 
only  imparts  new  life  to  the  plants,  but  serves  as  a  mulch 
during  the  early  summer  months,  when  a  period  of  drought 
is  often  experienced. 

One  great  fault  made  in  the  cultivation  of  herbaceous 
plants  is  that  of  allowing  each  specimen  to  grow  to  an 
unwieldy  size.  It  is  not  an  uncommon  sight  to  see  Michael- 
mas Daisies,  Pyrethrums,  Chrysanthemum  maximum,  and 
Heleniums  fully  a  yard  across  at  the  base,  with  stems  half 
the  strength  they  should  be.  Supporting  the  stems  of  such 
clumps  as  these  is  a  difficult  matter. 

Staking  Border  Plants.— One  of  the  first  things  that  the 
beginner  who  attempts  the  culture  of  perennial  herbaceous 
plants  learns  is  that  they  need  some  artificial  support  to 
prevent  their  shoots  being  blown  about  and  badly  damaged 
by  wind,  a  condition  that  quickly  results  where  the  wind  is 
accompanied  by  heavy  rains.  Having  ascertained  this,  the 
novice  usually  looks  about  for  ways  and  means  of  providing 
this  support,  and  the  natural  and  most  simple  way  out  of 
the  trouble  is  to  push  a  large  stake  into  the  centre  of  the 
group,  and  then  tightly  tie  all  the  growths  to  it  as  shown 
in  the  illustration.  By  the  end  of  the  season,  however,  the 
grower  will  not  feel  at  all  satisfied  with  the  result  of  his  labours 
— that  is  if  he  is  imbued  with  the  true  gardening  spirit.  He 
will  find  that  the  leaves  that  were  thus  crowded  up  in  the 
centre  of  the  clump  are  all  dead  and  decayed,  and  what  flowers 
are  produced  will  be  of  a  very  inferior  character. 

Apart  from  this,  there  is  the  appearance  of  the  plant  to 
consider.  The  plant  treated  in  the  barbarous  manner 
shown  in  the  illustration  is  one  of  the  Golden  Rods,  a 
spreading,  free-growing  specimen  capable  of  developing  into 
a  mass  of  gold  in  the  autumn.  Instead  of  tying  it  up  as 
shown  in  the  first  illustration,  the  beginner  should  deal  with 
it  as  shown  in  the  second,  which  represents  the  same  plant 
properly  staked  and  tied.  It  will  be  noticed  that  each  shoot 
stands  out  well  by  itself  and  that  the  stakes  used  are  scarcely 
visible,  one  being  placed  at  the  inner  side  of  each  shoot, 


>  «. 
i\  x  *  •  k  -   •  """ 


A  MIXED  BORDER  WITH  PLANTS  PROPERLY  STAKED. 


RE-PLANTING  OR  RENOVATING  BORDERS     43 

which  is  in  turn  securely  but  not  too  tightly  tied  to  it  with 
soft  garden  twine,  Raffiatape  or  raffia.  Treated  in  this  way, 
each  shoot  has  an  opportunity  of  developing  a  fine  head 
of  flowers  and  retaining  all  its  foliage  in  a  healthy  green 
state.  Very  little  more  time  was  taken  in  staking  and  tying 
the  plant  as  shown  on  the  right  than  was  required  to  do  it 
in  the  manner  shown  on  the  left,  and  a  comparison  of  the 
two  should  firmly  convince  every  beginner  in  gardening  that 
the  former  is  better  in  every  respect. 


HARDY    FLOWERS    FROM    SEED 


FEW  pastimes  are  more  interesting  than  that  of  raising  plants 
from  seed.  When  a  plant  is  purchased,  and  the  colour  of 
its  flower  is  known,  we  are  exactly  acquainted  with  what  to 
expect,  but  in  raising  from  seed  this  is  not  always  so.  There 
is  joy  in  anticipation.  Amongst  the  seedlings  may  occur  a 
jewel  brighter  than  anything  already  in  gardens.  Such  prizes 
occur  more  amongst  some  races  than  others  ;  Carnations,  as 
an  example,  occasionally  giving  a  prize  amidst,  of  course, 
many  blanks.  Even  when  the  flower  raised  is  not  likely  to 
startle  the  world,  there  is  satisfaction  in  knowing  that  this 
good  garden  plant  was  ",one  of  my  own  raising";  it  has 
an  especial  merit  in  the  raiser's  eyes,  and  prompts  him  to 
further  endeavours. 

In  offering  a  few  simple  remarks  on  raising  of  seedlings, 
a  few  groups  of  the  more  popular  kinds  may  well  serve  as 
general  examples.  It  must  be  clearly  understood  that  the 
chances  of  a  seed  growing  after  it  is  placed  in  the  soil  depend 
upon  its  vitality.  That  is  to  say,  a  life-long  experience  in 
gardening  or  the  raising  of  seedlings  avails  nothing  if  the 
seed  is  devoid  of  the  germinating  power — viz.  the  power  to 
reproduce  itself. 

Some  of  the  most  popular  plants  raised  from  seeds  are 
Carnations,  Auriculas,  Polyanthuses,  Primroses,  Anemones, 
Ranunculus,  and  so  forth. 

Soil  is  undoubtedly  the  most  important  consideration. 
Where  possible  there  will  be  a  desire  to  go  to  the  nearest 
florist  to  obtain  soil  of  the  right  sort,  but  in  many  cases  this 
is  impossible,  and  the  common  soil  of  the  garden  must  be 
used.  Take  some  of  this,  pass  it  through  the  ordinary 
cinder  sifter,  mix  with  it  some  finely  sifted  ashes  when  no 
sand  is  available,  and  put  it  for  a  week  in  a  large  box,  or 
other  dry  and  convenient  place.  If  the  soil  be  moist  and 
sticky,  it  must  be  fairly  dry  before  it  is  fit  for  use,  and  this 
is  accomplished  by  spreading  it  out  thinly  to  allow  the 
moisture  to  evaporate,  or  by  adding  some  dry  sand.  The 
orthodox  compost  for  sowing  fine  seeds  should  consist  of 

44 


HARDY   FLOWERS   FROM   SEED  45 

loam,  leaf-mould,  and  sand,  the  last  two  being  intended  to 
enrich  the  soil,  and  render  it  more  or  less  pervious  to 
moisture.  Such  a  mixture  is  not  always  obtainable,  though 
many  seedsmen  now  sell  potting  soil  in  sacks  for  every 
purpose.  Having  got  the  soil  into  a  proper  condition  of 
dryness,  the  next  point  will  be  to  prepare  the  boxes  or  pots 
for 

Sowing  the  Seeds. — Boxes  of  a  suitable  size  are  easily 
obtained,  those  of  the  chocolate  and  sweetmeat  class  being 
especially  suitable.  The  best  class  of  box  is  one  five  or  six 
inches  deep,  not  more,  and  about  eight  inches  or  so  long. 
In  the  bottom  make  a  few  holes  the  size  of  a  halfpenny,  or 
cut  out  a  narrow  strip  at  each  side  to  allow  the  water  to 
escape.  This  done,  place  some  rough  material,  such  as  small 
broken  coke  or  cinders,  in  the  bottom  to  fully  an  inch  deep, 
and  place  two  or  three  inches  of  soil  on  this.  Gently  press 
it  down  to  make  it  firm  and  quite  level  at  the  same  time. 
Scatter  a  little  sand  over  the  soil  before  setting  the  seeds. 
All  is  quite  ready  for  sowing  the  seeds,  which  should  be 
turned  out  of  the  packet  on  to  a  sheet  of  ordinary  notepaper, 
or  any  sheet  of  paper  that  can  be  folded  in  half.  The  seeds 
run  into  this  fold  in  the  paper,  and  one  may  regulate  the 
sowing — an  important  point.  If  sown  from  the  seedsman's 
packet,  it  is  just  possible  that  fifty  seeds  will  drop  down  in 
one  place,  and  none  in  another,  and  the  result  will  be  a 
fight  for  existence  when  the  seedlings  appear  above  the  soil. 
Carnation  seed  is  large,  and  may  even  be  regulated  with  the 
fingers  if  it  falls  too  thickly,  but  many  other  seeds  cannot  be 
treated  in  this  way.  Take  time  and  care  in  scattering  the 
seeds  quite  evenly  and  thinly  over  the  surface,  and  finally 
with  a  little  fine  and  quite  sandy  soil  cover  them  not  more 
than  a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep.  Seeds  of  Polyanthus,  Prim- 
roses, and  Auriculas  do  not  want  quite  so  much  soil  to  cover 
them,  and  a  little  soil  dredged  over  them,  so  to  speak,  will 
suffice.  The  covering  soil  should  be  carefully  sprinkled  on 
so  as  not  to  disturb  the  seeds,  and  when  all  is  completed  will 
be  slightly  lower  than  the  top  of  the  box.  By  placing  a 
sheet  of  glass  over  the  box  the  safety  of  the  seed  is  insured. 
Give  water  only  through  a  small  fine  rose  watering-can.  Almost 
all  the  smaller  seeds  may  be  raised  in  boxes,  and  in  a  sunny 
window  where  no  frame  is  at  hand,  but  a  frame  is  better.  One 
gentle  watering  from  a  fine  rose  can  will  suffice  for  some  days 
after  sowing,  and  if  the  glass  sheet  be  covered  with  a  piece 
of  sack  or  old  carpet,  the  growths  of  seedlings  will  be 
promoted.  When  the  seedlings  appear  through  the  soil  tilt 


46  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

the  glass  sheet  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  on  the  one  side 
to  admit  air,  and  discontinue  the  covering.  The  larger  seeds, 
as  Hollyhocks  and  Lupins,  may  all  be  sown  in  the  open 
garden. 

Raising  seedlings  of  hardy  flowers  is  one  of  the  most 
interesting  of  all  operations  in  a  small  garden.  Even  a 
cold  frame  will  suffice  for  them,  simply  putting  on  a  "  light " 
when  the  seed  is  sown,  watching  for  slugs  and  woodlice  when 
the  seedlings  show  themselves,  and  when  sufficiently  large 
transferring  to  a  prepared  piece  of  ground  in  the  open.  We 
have  known  delightful  groups  of  Primroses,  Polyanthuses, 
and  Auriculas  raised  in  this  way.  The  beginner  in  gardening 
who  is  keen  upon  raising  new  flowers  with  the  simple  contri- 
vances at  his  disposal  should  choose  the  three  charming 
flowers  named,  and  many  beautiful  strains,  as  the  florists  call 
a  race  of  unnamed  seedlings,  may  result.  There  must  be 
system  in  the  work.  In  the  first  place  purchase  the  finest 
seed  in  the  market.  Think  nothing  of  the  price.  The  most 
expensive  seed  brings  the  greatest  treasures  in  the  shape  of 
finer  flowers  for  colour  and  form,  and  also  plants  of  good 
habit  of  growth.  When  there  are  no  prizes  the  flowers,  with 
few  exceptions,  are  sufficiently  distinct  and  true  in  colour 
to  use  freely  in  beds  and  borders.  When  seed  raising  is 
seriously  undertaken  with  a  view  to  improving  an  existing 
race,  the  seedlings,  when  large  enough  to  remove,  must  be 
planted  in  a  bed  by  themselves,  the  individual  tufts  being 
far  enough  apart  to  develop.  The  object  of  this  is  to  remove 
poor  kinds  so  as  to  preserve  the  beauty  of  the  whole  race. 
A  muddled,  speckled  Primrose  in  the  midst  of  others  of  clear, 
telling  colours  has  no  right  there  ;  its  presence  will  probably, 
through  the  agency  of  birds,  bees,  or  insects,  spoil  the  others 
by  its  pollen  mixing  with  that  of  the  other  flowers.  With  a 
bed  of  seedlings  in  front  of  one,  destroy  all  tints  which  fail 
to  please,  and  remember  that  it  is  important  to  know  that 
the  attributes  of  a  good  garden  Primrose,  bunch-flowered  or 
otherwise,  Polyanthus,  or  Auricula,  is  a  pure  self-coloured 
flower  of  good  shape,  held  on  a  strong  stem,  and  free  in 
every  way  both  in  bloom  and  growth.  In  this  way  the 
glorious  Munstead  Primroses  were  created  by  Miss  Jekyll, 
and  rich  orange,  pure  white,  yellow,  and  other  shades  secured, 
and  not  only  so,  but  in  large  heads  supported  upon  strong 
stems,  to  produce  an  effect  of  colour  when  massed  in  the 
garden. 

Hardy  Perennials  from  Seeds. — Judged  by  the  frequent 
inquiries  which  come  to  hand,  there  would  appear  to  be 


HARDY   PERENNIALS  FROM   SEED         47 

to-day  a  far  greater  desire  than  formerly  to  raise  the  best 
hardy  perennials  from  seeds.  At  no  time  in  the  history 
of  hardy  plant  gardening  have  seedsmen  in  general  paid 
so  much  attention  to  this  particular  branch,  and  not  only 
are  the  best-known  seed-houses  affording  increased  facilities 
to  purchasers,  but  new  sources  of  supply  are  opening  up  on 
every  hand.  This  is  but  the  natural  outcome  of  an  increased 
demand,  the  amateur  having  realised  somewhat  of  the  wealth 
of  beauty  and  variety  such  gardening-  affords.  Hence  the 
raising  of  perennial  plants  from  seeds  is  calculated  to  be  far 
more  popular  in  the  future  than  it  has  been  in  the  past,  and 
where  permanent  beds  or  groups  are  the  object  in  view, 
nothing  can  surpass  the  system  we  have  in  mind.  A  single 
plant  of  this  or  that  may  cost  sixpence,  or  even  twice  that  sum, 
while  a  packet  of  seeds,  even  if  of  equal  cost,  which  is  only 
rarely  the  case,  may  yield  two  or  even  three  dozen  plants. 
Let  us  take,  for  example,  so  useful  a  subject  as  the  long- 
spurred  hybrid  Columbines.  No  flowering  perennial  has  a 
more  elegant  or  distinctive  grace,  we  see  at  once  the  value  of 
dozens  of  plants  in  beds  or  borders,  a  value  which  is  only 
equalled  by  the  utility  of  the  flowers  in  the  decoration  of  the 
home  or  their  importance  in  the  exhibition  arena.  Moreover, 
the  plant  so  raised,  if  grown  in  well-cultivated  soil,  will  give 
of  its  best  for  years — a  "  best "  whose  productiveness  is 
increased  in  proportion  to  the  care  and  intelligence  bestowed 
in  its  cultivation. 

In  like  manner  the  Gaillardia,  Hollyhock,  Larkspur,  and 
Coreopsis,  among  many  others,  are  each  amenable  to  similar 
treatment,  and  alike  valuable  from  the  decorative  point  of 
view.  What  is  most  necessary  to  impress  upon  the  amateur 
or  beginner  in  gardening  who  undertakes  such  work  is  the 
need  of  starting  in  season  and  in  reason,  and  of  possessing  his 
soul  in  patience  until  such  time  as  a  first  flowering  is  secured. 
That  energetic  individual  should  remember,  too,  that  a  plant  of 
perennial  duration  does  not  often  attain  to  the  flowering  stage 
in  the  first  year,  and  that,  should  a  flowering  ensue,  it  should 
not  be  regarded  as  characteristic  of  the  flower  or  representative 
of  the  group  to  which  it  belongs.  It  is  quite  true,  however, 
that  seeds  of  the  perennial  Larkspur,  among  others,  may  be 
sown  in  gentle  warmth  in  January  and  February,  and  pushed 
along  with  all  speed  and  planted  out  in  May  in  deeply  and 
richly  cultivated  soils  to  give  a  flowering  during  the  late 
summer  or  early  autumn  ensuing.  The  fact  is  interesting 
rather  as  the  result  of  intensive  cultivation,  though  it  is  not 
general  or  reliable  in  all  seasons  or  localities  alike. 


48  GARDENING  FOR  BEGINNERS 

At  the  most,  then,  such  flowering  in  a  perennial  should  be 
regarded  as  precocious,  the  seedling  being  none  other  than 
the  child  of  the  parent  plant.  There  is,  however,  a  distinctive 

§ain  to  the  plant  thus  early  set  in  its  permanent  home,  for 
y  the  ample  scope  afforded  for  development  it  will  have 
garnered  to  itself  a  strength  of  crown  and  rootstock  im- 
measurably superior  to  that  of  the  seedling  which  has  been 
permitted  to  dawdle  away  its  earliest  days  or  weeks  minus  the 
attention  so  requisite  to  its  needs.  The  moral,  therefore,  will 
be  obvious  to  all. 

In  conjunction  with  early  sowing  there  must  of  necessity 
follow  timely  transplanting,  and  if  in  due  season  the  plant  be 
got  into  its  permanent  abode,  the  cultivator  will  at  least  have 
the  satisfaction  of  knowing  that  he  has  played  his  part.  Such 
work,  indeed,  is  fundamental,  an  essential  that  cannot  be 
ignored  with  impunity.  The  most  successful  cultivators  or 
exhibitors  of  this  or  any  other  time  are  the  greatest  sticklers 
for  cultural  details,  and  apart  from  their  mastery  of  these, 
they  adopt  the  inexorable  rule  of  never  putting  off  till  to- 
morrow work  that  should  have  been  done  to-day.  Naturally, 
the  amateur  will  say,  "  How  impossible  for  me  to  emulate  this 
clockwork  precision  and  regularity  !  "  and  this,  indeed,  may  be 
true.  At  the  same  time,  it  might  conceivably  be  his  ambition, 
a  goal  he  is  ever  endeavouring  to  reach.  This  and  the  ever- 
present  knowledge  of  the  importance  of  doing  the  right  thing 
at  the  right  moment  will,  if  he  be  a  true  flower-lover,  spur 
him  on  to  further  effort  in  the  direction  indicated. 

To  say  that  seeds  of  all  perennials  should  be  thinly  sown 
and,  so  far  as  under-glass  cultivation  is  concerned,  lightly 
covered,  is  but  to  repeat  what  has  been  said  hundreds  of 
times  before.  Seeds  of  the  Larkspur,  for  example,  are  large 
enough  to  admit  of  handling  singly,  and  where  this  is  not  the 
case,  a  thin  distribution  of  them  is  very  important.  Light- 
weight seeds,  as  Statice,  certain  species  of  Anemone  and 
Gaillardia,  may  be  covered  more  deeply  than  seeds  of  the 
weight  and  character  of  the  Columbines  or  Lychnises,  while 
seeds  of  the  largest  size,  as  Paeony,  perennial  Pea,  Iris,  or 
others  like  Phlox,  Christmas  Rose,  Adonis,  or  Hepatica, 
which  remain  for  a  couple  of  years  without  signs  of  vege- 
tating, may  be  covered  fully  half  an  inch  deep,  and  will  be 
further  benefited  by  a  protective  board  or  slate  covering 
meanwhile,  in  order  to  stay  evaporation  and  prevent  the 
undue  souring  of  the  soil. 

On  the  other  hand,  seeds  of  a  minute  character  will  require 
but  little,  if  any,  soil  covering,  and  these  are  they  that  test 


HARDY   PERENNIALS   FROM   SEED         49 

the  skill  of  the  seedling-raiser  most  of  all.  For  all  such  the 
most  careful  watering  is  necessary ;  better,  indeed,  that 
watering  as  usually  understood  be  dispensed  with  and  that 
the  seed-pot  be  partly  immersed  in  water  for  a  few  minutes 
now  and  again  in  lieu.  Not  a  few  species  and  varieties  of 
Campanula  appear  to  dislike  a  deep  soil  covering,  and  the 
finest  of  sandy  soils  only  should  be  used.  Soils,  too,  for 
seed-sowing  should  be  free  of  manure,  and  are  best  if  baked 
or  heated  to  an  extent  calculated  to  destroy  all  insect-life. 
Above  all,  the  amateur  should  remember  that  there  is  no 
necessity  to  empty  the  entire  contents  of  a  packet  of  seeds 
in  a  single  pot.  Far  better  that  a  part  be  sown  and  the 
remainder  reserved  for  sowing  in  the  open  ground  in  favour- 
able weather  in  March. 

The  following  are  some  of  the  more  important  groups 
easily  raised  from  seeds  :  Achillea,  Aster,  Anchusa,  Anemone, 
Aquilegia,  Aubrietia,  Campanula,  Chelone,  Coreopsis,  Coronilla, 
Delphinium,  Dracocephalum,  Echinops,  Eryngium,  Gaillardia, 
Galega,  Geum,  Heuchera,  Iberis,  Chrysanthemum  leucanthe- 
mum,  Monarda,  Lupine,  Lychnis,  Polemonium,  Scabiosa, 
Papaver,  Primula,  Pentstemon,Silene,  Statice,and  Zauschneria. 


ANNUAL    FLOWERS 


IT  is  unwise  to  grow  too  many  plants  in  the  small  garden, 
and  especially  of  annuals,  which  are  often  unruly  in  growth, 
quickly  tumbling  over  everything  near  to  them,  or  covering 
many  precious  perennials  with  their  trails  of  stems  and  leaves. 
There  is  wisdom  in  taking  up  a  few  groups  and  growing  them 
thoroughly — e.g.  the  Poppies,  Sweet  Peas,  and  similar  kinds, 
which  are  both  charming  in  the  garden  and  useful  to  gather 
for  the  house. 

Amateurs  who  delight  in  colour  may  have  a  showy  border 
or  flower  bed  at  trifling  cost  and  with  little  delay.  There  are, 
broadly,  only  two  classes  of  annuals,  those  known  as  "hardy  " 
and  "  half-hardy."  The  former  may  be  sown  in  the  open 
border  straight  from  the  purchased  seed  packets,  whilst  the 
others  require  sowing  in  some  warmth,  such  as  a  frame  or 
similar  contrivance. 

The  soil  requires  first  consideration.  Well  dig  the  beds 
or  borders  in  autumn,  putting  in  rather  deeply  plenty  of  well- 
decayed  manure.  If  the  garden  soil  is  heavy,  inclining  to 
close  clay,  get  a  load  of  road  sweepings  or  grit,  and  either  dig 
this  in  with  the  manure  or  spread  on  the  surface  when  digging 
is  completed.  Do  not  be  afraid  to  dig  deeply  even  when  a 
little  bad-coloured  soil  comes  to  the  top,  for  this  can  always 
be  treated  and  made  better  on  the  surface.  Leave  the  surface 
quite  rough,  so  that  frost  and  air  may  play  their  part  in  the 
pulverising  and  refreshing  of  the  soil.  These  are  the  reasons 
for  undertaking  this  work  in  winter,  and  the  soil  below  is  in  its 
turn  being  gradually  enriched  for  the  roots.  If  slugs  abound 
give  a  good  dressing  of  soot,  and  six  weeks  after  a  small  dress- 
ing of  lime  may  be  of  service.  In  March  fork  over  the 
ground,  break  up  all  rough  clods  of  soil  that  have  not  fallen 
to  pieces  by  the  action  of  the  frost,  and  break  down  the  sur- 
face rather  finely  for  the  reception  of  the  seeds.  Use  the  large 
four-tined  fork  for  this  work,  breaking  down,  making  fine, 
and  raking  all  in  one.  Whilst  performing  this  work  avoid 
treading  the  soil  as  much  as  possible,  particularly  when  of  a 
heavy  clay.  On  the  other  hand,  very  fine  and  sandy  soils,  or 

50 


ANNUAL   FLOWERS  51 

those  of  light  character,  may  be  much  benefited  by  making 
them  firm,  which  is  achieved  by  treading  or  by  beating  with 
the  back  of  the  fork.  Very  light  and  warm  shallow  soils, 
much  drained  by  sand  or  gravel  beds  below,  should  receive  a 
dressing  of  cow  manure  in  preference  to  all  others.  This  is 
especially  recommended  owing  to  its  lasting  and  cooling 
qualities,  cow  manure  in  these  cases  being  especially  valuable. 

Sowing  the  Seeds. — This  is  an  important  matter,  and  must 
be  largely  left  to  the  amateur,  who  may  perchance  require 
lines,  or  circles,  or  diamonds,  or  many  other  designs  to  suit 
his  own  desires.  But  however  the  seeds  are  sown,  one  point 
must  be  emphasized,  and  that  is  the  evil  of  overcrowding  of 
the  young  seedling  plants. 

The  following  article  on  annual  flowers  is  by  Mr.  James 
Hudson,  V.M.H.,  head  gardener  at  Acton  House,  Gunners- 
bury,  where  annual  flowers  are  grown  to  perfection. 

The  Cultivation  of  Hardy  Annuals. — Annuals,  in  a  com- 
prehensive sense,  cannot  be  dealt  with  in  the  space  of  this 
article ;  therefore  I  propose  to  deal  with  hardy  annuals, 
embracing  such  as  can  be  sown  outdoors  or  brought  forward 
in  only  a  cold  frame.  These  types  of  annuals,  it  may  be 
noted,  but  they  are  not  often  so  alluded  to,  are  lovers  of 
a  calcareous  soil,  thriving  better  in  such  than  in  a  soil  rich 
in  humus.  With  a  little  consideration  this  may  be  noted, 
for  most  readers  will  have  observed  how  well  annuals  thrive 
in  many  seaside  resorts  where  lime  is  in  evidence  in  the  soil. 
In  their  native  habitats  this  also  applies  in  many  instances. 
Annuals  of  this  description  will  also  grow  freely  and  flower 
most  profusely  in  somewhat  limited  borders.  This,  I  think, 
all  goes  to  prove  that  cultivators  often  err  in  providing  too 
rich  soil  for  their  growth. 

During  the  hot  summer  of  1911  I  noted  that  annuals 
thrived  remarkably  well,  and  were  quite  in  contrast  to  what 
many  of  them  were  in  the  previous  two  or  three  dripping 
seasons.  There  are  exceptions  to  almost  every  rule,  and  as 
an  instance  I  would  quote  that  lovely  climbing  annual,  Mina 
lobata,  which  in  1911  grew  too  freely  and  was  not  so  effective 
as  usual.  A  few  annuals  thrive  well  in  quite  moist  situa- 
tions, e.g.,  Polygonum  orientale,  the  Persicaire  of  the  French 
growers  ;  this  and  a  few  more  may  be  classed  as  semi-aquatics. 
Taken  as  a  whole,  it  may  be  stated  that  hardy  annuals  revel 
in  abundance  of  sunshine.  My  first  acquaintance  with  the 
Cosmos,  as  a  case  in  point,  was  upon  the  top  of  a  low  wall  at 
Cadenobbia,  on  the  banks  of  the  Lake  of  Como.  After  seeing 
them  there  I  grew  some  the  following  season,  but  I  failed  to 


52  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

profit  as  much  as  I  should  have  done,  having  been  too  generous 
as  it  pertained  to  the  soil. 

In  the  cultivation  of  nearly  all  hardy  annuals  that  are  sown 
where  they  are  to  remain,  it  is  a  common  mistake,  first,  to  sow 
too  thickly,  and  afterwards  to  leave  the  seedling  plants  too 
close  together.  The  result  of  this  is  an  impoverished  plant, 
and  its  life  is  consequently  quite  fugitive  in  character.  As  a 
case  in  point,  we  see  mistakes  made  in  many  gardens  where 
the  popular  Matthiola  bicornis,  the  Night-scented  Stock,  is 

frown.  Again,  in  the  case  of  the  now  universally  popular 
weet  Pea,  this  is  oftentimes  sown  much  too  thickly,  and 
here,  again,  comes  in  another  mistake,  viz.  the  leaving  of  the 
seedpods  to  develop,  which  soon  exhausts  the  plants.  We 
should  aim  at  securing  as  long  a  life  as  possible  for  all  annuals, 
and  if  this  important  item  of  cultivation  was  borne  in  mind 
more  often  than  it  is,  we  should  see  a  much  finer  display. 

Hardy  annuals  should  enter  into  the  floral  arrangements 
of  our  gardens  more  than  they  oftentimes  do.  This  might  be 
advantageously  done  where  the  amount  of  glass  at  command 
is  all  too  limited.  I  well  remember  having  seen  the  wisdom 
exercised  in  using  these  plants  in  a  large  public  garden  in  the 
North  of  England  on  one  occasion.  I  thought  at  the  time 
that  this  was  a  good  example  of  how  to  make  the  best  of 
things  at  one's  command.  There  is  a  disposition  that  pre- 
vails in  some  gardens  of  occupying  too  much  space  with 
bedding  plants  during  the  winter  months,  when  the  room 
would  be  much  better  utilised  with  decorative  flowering  plants, 
in  pots  and  labour  saved. 

As  a  class  of  plants  it  cannot  be  said  that  hardy  annuals 
are  of  difficult  cultivation,  if  a  due  proportion  of  common- 
sense  be  exercised  in  their  treatment.  Most  growers,  I  have 
no  doubt,  will  have  noted  how  well  an  adventitious  seedling 
will  thrive  where  it  has  had  plenty  of  room  to  develop.  How 
well  these  look,  too !  A  casual  plant  of  the  Nicotiana  affinis 
hybrids  will  at  times  thrust  itself  upon  our  notice  and  thrive 
well.  We  have  now  several  annuals  that  serve  a  useful  pur- 
pose as  foliage  plants.  Kochia  tricophylla  is  an  instance  of 
this.  As  regards  this  plant,  it  may  be  noted  that  a  mistake  is 
often  made  of  sowing  the  seed  and  coddling  the  plants  in  pots 
afterwards  until  they  are  planted  out.  The  Giant  Hemp 
makes  a  fine  display  as  a  foliage  plant  for  the  backs  of  borders. 
From  the  standpoint  of  fragrance  alone,  hardy  annuals  occupy 
a  prominent  position,  as  in  the  case  of  the  Mignonette,  the 
Stock,  the  Sweet  Alyssum,  the  Candytuft,  the  annual  Datura, 
the  Sweet  Scabious  and,  of  course,  the  Sweet  Pea. 


ANNUAL   FLOWERS  53 

From  among  hardy  annuals  (or  those  that  can  be  raised 
in  cold  frames)  we  draw  a  large  number  of  our  everlasting 
flowers,  such  as  the  Rhodanthe,  the  Helichrysum,  the  Acro- 
clinium,  and  the  annual  forms  of  the  Statice.  Some  of  the 
prettiest  of  the  ornamental  grasses  are  also  annuals ;  these 
are  excellent  to  use  with  the  everlasting  flowers  just  noted. 
Briza  minima,  B.  maxima,  Lagurus  ovatus,  Eragrostis  elegans, 
Agrostis  nebulosa,  and  A.  pulchella  are  all  beautiful,  and  they 
also  last  well.  Where  a  position  can  be  allotted  to  hardy 
annuals  alone,  they  make  a  most  attractive  feature,  and  well 
repay  any  extra  trouble  that  may  be  given  them.  There  is 
such  a  diversity  in  form,  in  habit,  and  in  growth.  We  have 
climbing  annuals,  bush-like  annuals,  prostrate  annuals,  annuals 
for  growing  upon  walls,  and  annuals  that  will  thrive  where 
scarcely  any  other  plant  will  grow. 

We  have  hardy  annuals  also  that  well  repay  for  pot  culture, 
and  I  have  often  been  surprised  that  so  little  use  is  made  of 
them  in  that  special  way.  Nothing  in  the  spring  is  more 
delightful  than  pots  of  Nemophila  insignis  with  the  growth 
completely  hiding  the  pots  and  studded  with  its  bright  blue 
and  white  flowers.  The  Mignonette  is  grown  more  than  the 
preceding,  but  its  growth  in  private  gardens  is  not  so  good  as 
the  trade  growers  produce  for  our  markets.  Its  requirements 
are  not,  I  think,  so  well  understood  as  they  should  be.  The 
Viscaria  affords  another  instance  of  what  may  be  accomplished 
in  pots  with  hardy  annuals,  such  as  V.  cardinalis,  V.  elegans 
picta,  V.  oculata,  and  V.  oculata  ccerulea,  yet  these  are  rarely 
seen  so  grown.  The  distinct  advantage  of  annuals  in  pots  is 
that  they  may  be  cast  upon  the  rubbish-heap  when  past  their 
best. 

Grouping  Hardy  Annuals  for  Colour  Effect.— Very  pleasing 
effects  may  be  made  with  annuals  alone,  or  in  conjunction 
with  other  hardy  plants,  from  the  standpoint  of  colour  simply. 
I  have  seen  in  two  distinctly  different  gardens  very  beautiful 
effects  made  with  varied  shades  of  blue  in  one  case,  and  that 
near  to  the  sea ;  and  in  another  with  varied  shades  of  pink 
and  mauve,  these  latter  being  kept  quite  apart,  although  they 
might  have  been  blended  together.  To  enumerate  what 
might  be  done  in  this  way  in  full  would  take  more  space 
than  can  be  afforded ;  but  the  suggestion  made  may  be 
the  means  of  setting  garden-lovers  thinking  of  what  may 
suit  their  individual  tastes,  and  with  a  careful  selection  be 
suitable  to  the  situation  or  locality. 

Blue-flowered  Annuals. — I  will  enumerate  a  few  blue- 
flowering  annuals  that  may  be  so  used.  Viscaria  carulea,  a 


54  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

rather  uncommon  plant,  pale  blue  in  colour  and  one  that 
lasts  well ;  Anagallis  linifolia  c<zrulea,  a  Gentian  blue,  dwarf 
in  growth,  thriving  better  in  poor  soil  ;  Linum  perenne,  a 
lovely  shade  of  blue,  flowering  for  a  long  period,  wants  sup- 
port ;  Linaria  maroccana,  in  the  blue  shades  of  colour  and 
varied ;  Asperula  azurea  setosay  light  blue  and  fragrant ; 
Aster  sinensis,  in  the  blue  shades  only ;  Sweet  Peas,  the  pale 
blue,  lavender,  heliotrope,  and  dark  blue  shades ;  Brachycome 
iberidifolia,  the  blue  shades,  suitable  alike  for  beds  and 
rockwork ;  Centaurea  cyanus,  in  the  blue  shades ;  Eutoca 
viscida,  a  beautiful  shade  of  blue  and  of  compact  growth  ; 
Phacelia  campanularia,  an  annual  well  deserving  of  extended 
culture ;  Nemesia  hybrida,  Blue  Gem,  which  I  have  recently 
heard  well  spoken  of ;  and  Nemophila  insignis,  bright  blue 
with  white  eye. 

Pink  Flowers. — In  shades  of  pink  there  is  also  a  good 
choice,  but  probably  not  quite  so  many  dwarf-growing  plants. 
Here  Sweet  Peas  will  provide  a  wide  range  of  colour.  I 
have  seen  these  used  with  a  lovely  effect  in  conjunction  with 
Clarkia  elegans,  C.  pulcherrima,  and  C.  integripetala.  These, 
if  well  cared  for,  will  last  a  long  time  in  flower.  The  pink 
shades  of  the  Candytuft  will  supply  an  excellent  variation 
of  rather  dwarf  plants,  also  lasting  well  if  not  grown  too 
thickly.  The  pink  forms  of  Aster  sinensis  will  serve  a  useful 
purpose,  especially  late  in  the  season.  There  are  also  varied 
shades  of  pink  to  be  found  in  the  Godetias,  bordering  some- 
what on  to  rose,  no  doubt,  but  still  admissible.  Lavatera 
splendens  rosea  is  a  distinctly  useful  annual  of  robust  growth, 
better  in  a  poor  soil  than  otherwise.  The  shades  of  pink  in 
Phlox  Drummondii  further  enhance  the  list.  Viscara  elegans 
picta,  as  a  somewhat  dwarf  plant,  is  useful  and  distinct ; 
Silene  compacta  varieties,  as  prostrate -growing  annuals,  are 
very  effective. 

Yellow  and  Orange  Flowers — In  varied  shades  of  yellow  and 
orange  there  is  a  wide  choice,  notably  among  the  Calliopsis 
(or  Coreopsis).  The  dwarf-growing  and  somewhat  prostrate 
Zinnia  haageana,  in  three  or  more  shades,  are  valuable,  not 
only  from  the  point  of  effect,  but  also  for  their  enduring 
character.  The  dwarf-growing  Marigolds,  also  the  Tagetes, 
are  very  effective  and  last  a  long  time  in  flower.  In  Dimor- 
photheca  aurantiaca  we  have  an  extremely  useful  yellow 
annual,  and  one  that  rather  enjoys  a  dry  situation.  Of  this 
annual  and  D.  pluvialis  we  have  also  a  choice  selection  of 
new  hybrids,  all  of  which  will,  I  think,  blend  with  the  yellows. 
If  they  do  not  quite  come  up  to  the  coloured  plate  that  I 


CODETTAS    AND    DWARF    WHITE    ALYSSUM    USED    AS 

EDGINGS    TO    A     PATHWAY.         SEEDS    CAN    BE    SOWN 

OUTDOORS    THE    FIRST    WEEK    IN   APRIL. 


A    BED    OF    MIXED    CANDYTUFT   IN   A    SMALL    GARDEN. 


ANNUAL   FLOWERS  55 

have  seen,  they  will  still  be  beautiful.  It  would  be  quite 
possible  to  add  many  more  annuals  in  shades  of  yellow,  but 
any  reliable  catalogue  will  supply  a  further  choice. 

Crimson-Coloured  Annuals  could  easily  be  found  in  a  seed 
catalogue.  Among  these  the  Coreopsis  will  be  found  most 
enduring,  likewise  Linum  grandiflorum  coccineum  and  Vis- 
caria  cardinalis.  In  using  these,  however,  I  should,  per- 
sonally, be  disposed  to  tone  down  the  colour  by  using  other 
annuals  with  white  flowers.  For  fences  where  rapid  growth 
is  needed,  nothing  surpasses  the  Tropaeolums  or  so-called 
Nasturtiums,  from  the  Canary  Creeper  to  T.  lobbianum. 

Half-Hardy  Annuals. — The  words  "half-hardy"  are  used 
to  denote  those  kinds  of  tender  growth  ;  and  seeds  must 
either  be  sown  quite  early  in  the  year,  under  glass,  or  late 
in  the  spring  when  frosts  are  neither  severe  nor  frequent. 
The  China  Aster  is  typical  of  a  half-hardy  annual,  and  there 
are  many  families  as  showy  and  as  useful  in  the  summer 
garden.  The  amateur  gardener  will  probably  choose  a  simple 
hot-bed  for  sowing  the  seeds  upon,  and  with  this  warmth 
many  things  may  be  raised  with  a  small  amount  of  trouble 
and  expense.  Select  for  the  seed  a  quite  shallow  pan  or 
pot,  and  always  sow  thinly,  and  usually  not  before  late 
February,  and  through  March  and  April.  It  is  useless  to 
sow  very  early  in  the  year ;  the  plants  appear  in  the  dark 
days,  make  little  progress,  and  become  miserably  drawn 
out  and  weedy.  Only  by  a  steady  growth  to  ensure  vigour 
and  "solidity,"  so  to  speak,  is  it  possible  to  obtain  a  wealth 
of  flowers  true  in  colour  and  in  form.  A  mixture  of  loam, 
well-decayed  manure,  leaf-mould,  and  sharp  silver  sand  will 
suffice  for  soil ;  and  in  watering  immerse  the  receptacle  to 
the  rim,  so  as  to  allow  the  water  to  soak  up  through  the  hole 
in  the  bottom.  When  the  surface  of  the  soil  is  watered,  the 
seed  is  frequently  washed  to  one  side  of  the  receptacle.  A 
hot  temperature  is  unnecessary,  and  the  thermometer  should 
never  go  beyond  65  degrees.  Of  course  the  object  of  this  is 
to  get  strong  growth,  impossible  in  the  stewing  heat  of  a  hot- 
house. 

It  is  impossible  in  some  gardens  to  afford  artificial  heat, 
and  in  such  cases  sowing  must  be  deferred  until  May  outdoors. 
This  is  not  the  proper  course  where  means  are  available  for 
sowing  under  glass. 

A  list  of  annuals,  with  their  height,  colour,  and  time  of 
flowering,  is  given  in  the  tables  on  p.  542. 


SWEET    PEAS 


DURING  the  last  ten  or  fifteen  years  these  charming  and 
fragrant  annual  flowers  have  been  exceedingly  popular,  and 
there  are  few  gardens  where  some,  at  least,  are  not  grown. 
For  exhibition  purposes  some  growers  go  to  a  great  deal 
of  trouble  in  removing  all  side  shoots  from  the  stems,  but 
for  ordinary  show  purposes  such  steps  are  not  necessary. 
The  following  article  by  Mr.  E.  H.  Christy,  a  well-known 
grower  of  Sweet  Peas,  describes  their  cultivation  in  a  sensible 
way,  and  for  that  reason  is  quoted  here. 

"Sowing  the  Seed.— First  of  all  I  am  very  keen  on  autumn 
sowing,  so  my  year  begins  at  the  end  of  September,  for  the 
following  reasons :  I  find  that  seeds  germinate  much  better 
then  than  they  do  in,  say,  the  first  week  in  February.  The 
temperature  of  the  soil  is  much  warmer,  the  plants  show- 
ing in  a  fortnight  or  three  weeks,  according  to  the  season. 
Then,  again,  autumn-sown  plants  are  far  stronger  and 
have  more  roots  than  spring-sown  ones  ;  they  bloom  about 
two  weeks  earlier,  and  I  am  certain  give  better  flowers ;  and, 
above  all,  are  more  able  to  resist  disease  and  stand  the  checks 
they  get  by  sudden  changes  in  temperature,  provided,  of 
course,  they  have  been  kept  very  hardy  all  through  the 
winter  and  not  coddled  in  any  shape  or  form.  I  know  that 
many  growers,  who  sow  in  the  end  of  January  and  start  their 
Sweet  Peas  in  a  heated  green-house,  then  remove  the  plants 
to  cold  frames  before  they  are  at  all  drawn  up  and  nicely 
harden  them  off,  have  almost  as  good  results  ;  but  I  have 
not  this  accommodation  for  the  quantity  I  grow,  so  the 
autumn  is  the  time  for  me.  The  pleasure  I  get  in  watching 
the  plants  during  the  dull  winter  months  counts  for  some- 
thing also. 

"Soil  for  Sowing. — A  week  or  so  before  sowing,  prepare  the 
soil,  which  consists  of  good  turfy  loam  that  has  been  stacked 
up  to  mellow,  passing  it  through  a  coarse  sieve,  and  then  mix 
some  good  leaf-soil  with  it  and  add  a  small  quantity  of  sand, 
well  mixing  the  whole  together.  I  do  not  use  any  manure, 
as  seedlings  do  not  want  it,  provided  you  get  the  right  sort 

56 


SWEET   PEAS  57 

of  fibrous  loam.  I  use  large  wooden  boxes,  such  as  Sunlight 
Soap  boxes,  so  easily  obtained  from  the  grocers  or  oilmen. 
These  are,  of  course,  fairly  deep,  and  are  rather  heavy  for 
lifting  about ;  but  it  is  important  that  there  should  be  plenty 
of  room  for  the  roots  of  autumn-sown  Sweet  Peas.  Do  not 
forget  to  make  holes  in  the  bottom  for  drainage,  and  crock 
the  boxes  as  you  would  for  pots.  Press  the  soil  fairly  solid  ; 
this  is  necessary,  as  a  loose  soil  causes  the  plants  to  be  soft 
and  weak.  When  sowing  the  seed  I  use  a  handy  little  tool 
of  my  own  device,  made  of  wood,  something  like  a  rake, 
with  large,  blunted  teeth  half  an  inch  in  length.  When  well 
pressed  down  on  the  surface  of  the  box  this  makes  holes  at 
equal  distances  and  of  equal  depth,  rendering  it  very  easy 
to  drop  in  the  seeds,  the  holes  being  about  two  inches  apart. 
Cover  up  the  seeds  with  about  half  an  inch  of  soil,  and  press 
down  with  a  block  of  wood.  Label  each  box,  and  mark  on  the 
back  of  the  label  the  number  of  seeds  in  each,  as  it  is  interest- 
ing to  be  able  to  count  the  failures  or  successes,  as  the  case 
may  be.  The  boxes  are  now  placed  in  rows  with  alleys,  so 
that  I  can  get  among  them  easily,  putting  black  cotton  over 
them  to  keep  the  sparrows  off.  Of  course,  one  Pea  in  a  pot 
is  the  ideal  where  possible.  I  place  pieces  of  carrot  about 
the  boxes  to  attract  the  slugs,  which,  unfortunately,  are  only 
too  plentiful.  While  they  are  enjoying  the  carrot,  though 
not  exactly  '  improving  the  shining  hour/  at  least  they  are  not 
eating  my  Sweet  Peas.  Look  out  for  mice,  which  are  almost 
certain  to  visit  you.  I  set  the  'break-back'  or  'Little  Nip- 
per '  traps.  On  the  weather  becoming  cold  I  fill  all  the  avail- 
able cold  frames  with  the  boxes,  and  make  a  temporary 
shelter  for  the  others  with  oil  sheeting,  placed  on  wooden 
supports,  which  is  rolled  up  every  morning,  or  when  not 
required  to  keep  off  heavy  rain.  This  also  protects  them 
from  a  certain  amount  of  frost.  But  frost  does  not  hurt 
Sweet  Peas.  I  have  seen  my  seedlings  laid  down  flat,  like 
dead  men,  during  a  sharp  frost ;  but  when  the  thaw  came 
they  stood  up,  and  were  as  right  as  ever  in  a  few  days. 
It  is  the  damp  and  sudden  changes  that  are  harmful  to  them. 
If  the  soil  in  the  boxes  gets  stagnant  or  green  on  the  top, 
scratch  it  up  with  a  sharp-pointed  stick;  this  is  equal  to 
hoeing  them  in  their  later  stages.  The  tops  are  pinched 
out  of  all  my  plants ;  this  makes  the  side  growths  much 
stronger. 

"  Planting  Out.— Early  in  April  planting-out  time  comes. 
Choose  the  right  days  according  to  the  state  of  your  ground 
and  the  weather.  In  the  garden  I  grow  the  Sweet  Peas  in 


58  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

double  rows  i  foot  apart  each  way  and  6  feet  between  the 
rows,  the  ground  being  well  trenched  during  the  winter. 
In  the  field  the  plants  are  put  in  with  a  trowel  10  inches 
apart  in  single  rows  and  5  feet  between  the  rows,  which  run 
north  and  south.  I  plant  the  varieties  that  are  similar  in 
colour  next  to  each  other  for  easy  comparison. 

"  Sticks  for  Support  —  I  use  the  ordinary  Pea-sticks,  which 
are  easily  obtained  round  here,  and  have  never  used  wire 
or  wire-netting  or  any  other  support.  Short,  branching  sticks 
are  stuck  in  directly  after  planting,  and  the  taller  ones  put 
in  later.  Readers  may  ask,  Why  take  all  this  trouble  about 
planting  out ;  why  not  sow  in  the  ground  ?  The  answer  is, 
The  plants  are  much  earlier,  and  you  start  with  a  perfect 
plant  to  begin  with,  whatever  happens  afterwards.  I  believe 
that  Sweet  Peas  are  something  like  children,  and  should  have 
time  and  attention  given  them  in  their  early  stages.  Having 
had  a  good  send-off  they  will  continue  to  grow  up  in  the 
right  way." 

Although  Mr.  Christy  so  strongly  and  rightly  advocates 
autumn  sowing  under  glass,  the  amateur,  who  for  some 
reason  or  other  is  prevented  from  doing  so,  can  get  good 
results  by  sowing  the  seed  in  the  open  garden  in  March.  In 
warm  localities,  and  where  the  soil  is  well  drained,  outdoor 
sowing  in  September  may  be  successfully  adopted,  and  if  the 
plants  survive  the  winter  they  will  give  better  results  than 
those  sown  in  spring.  Thin  sowing  is  essential,  and  the 
plants  should  be  subsequently  thinned  so  that  they  stand  at 
least  nine  inches  apart. 

Good  Sweet  Peas  for  Exhibition. — Mrs.  C.  W.  Breadmore, 
cream,  red  edge ;  Elsie  Herbert,  white,  red  edge ;  John 
Ingman,  carmine ;  Selected  King  Edward  VII  Spencer, 
crimson ;  Hercules,  pink ;  Nubian,  maroon ;  Helen  Gros- 
venor,  orange  pink ;  Mrs.  Routzahn,  pale  cream  pink  ;  Queen 
of  Norway,  mauve  ;  King  White,  white ;  Florence  Nightin- 
gale, lavender ;  Earl  Spencer,  salmon ;  Clara  Curtis,  cream  ; 
Mrs.  W.  J.  Unwin,  white,  red  stripes ;  Thomas  Stevenson, 
orange  scarlet ;  Doris  Usher,  cream  pink ;  Elfrida  Pearson, 
pale  pink ;  Arthur  Unwin,  rose  and  cream ;  Scarlet  Monarch, 
scarlet ;  Flora  Norton  Spencer,  pale  blue ;  Mrs.  Townsend, 
white,  shaded  blue  ;  Charles  Foster,  pink,  mauve  shades ; 
Marie  Corelli,  rose  ;  Queen  of  Spain  Spencer,  pink. 

In  the  above  list  the  first  twelve  varieties  form  an  excellent 
all-round  selection  for  those  who  require  that  number.  Those 
who  require  eighteen  varieties  should  choose  the  first  eighteen 
in  the  list.  Of  course,  in  such  a  matter  as  the  selection  of 


SWEET   PEAS  59 

varieties,  opinions  will  greatly  differ,  and  some  growers  would 
include  in  their  first  eighteen  varieties  which  are  placed  lower 
in  the  list.  Comparatively  few  growers  will  require  more  than 
eighteen  varieties  ;  but,  on  the  other  hand,  those  who  desire 
to  exhibit  only  twelve  are  advised  to  grow  at  least  three  spare 
varieties. 

Varieties  for  the  Garden. — So  far  the  selection  of  varieties 
has  been  made  from  the  point  of  view  of  the  exhibitor,  but 
all  the  varieties  tabulated  are  good  growers,  and  are  otherwise 
suitable  for  garden  decoration.  For  a  selection  of  twelve 
varieties  for  the  latter  purpose  the  following  might  be  chosen  : 
Maud  Holmes,  Nettie  Jenkins,  Mrs.  Hugh  Dickson,  John 
Ingman,  Elfrida  Pearson,  Mrs.  Breadmore,  Elsie  Herbert, 
King  White,  Constance  Oliver,  Queen  of  Norway,  Clara 
Curtis,  and  Nubian.  Where  twenty  varieties  are  required,  the 
following  might  be  added  :  Arthur  Unwin,  Hercules,  America 
Spencer,  Marie  Corelli,  Flora  Norton  Spencer,  Helen  Gros- 
venor,  Mrs.  Townsend,  and  Scarlet  Monarch. 


SPRING  AND  SUMMER  BEDDING 


Spring  Bedding. — There  are  many  kinds  of  spring-flowering 
plants  that  may  be  associated  with  bulbs,  the  beauty  of  the 
flowers  of  the  latter  being  much  enhanced  by  the  close 
proximity  of  the  other  kinds  of  flowers.  The  spikes  of  the 


FIG.  i. — Effective  Ways  of  Planting  Spring  Flowers. 


bulbs,  especially  those  of  Hyacinths,  Tulips,  and  Narcissi, 
grow  a  fair  height  above  the  soil.  The  growth  of  many 
kinds  of  hardy  spring  flowers  is,  in  comparison,  dwarf, 
so  that  the  latter  may  be  used  as  a  groundwork  to  the 
taller  flowers  or  as  a  bordering  to  the  various  beds.  The 

beds   shown    in    both    A    and    B    designs    are   suitable   for 

60 


SPRING   AND   SUMMER   BEDDING 


61 


planting  as  separate  borders  in  any  garden,  on  a  small 
or  large  scale,  and,  of  course,  the  whole  design  in  each 
case  may  be  used  on  a  lawn  or  cut  out,  edged  with  tiles 
and  gravelled  between. 

Effect iue  Ways  of  Planting  the  Beds.— The  long  central  bed  in  Fig.  i 
may  be  filled  as  follows  :  Nos.  i  i  i,  Hyacinth  La  Grandesse  ;  Nos.  222, 
Hyacinth  Roi  des  Beiges  (dark  red) ;  No.  3,  entirely  filled  with  Aubrietia 
deltoides  (lavender  blue).  The  whole  bed  would  thus  show  the  colours  red, 
white,  and  blue.  No  other  bordering  would  be  needed,  as  the  Aubrietia 


FIG.  2. — Simple  Designs  for  Spring  Beds  and  Borders. 


would  form  it  in  the  way  of  a  carpet  bordering.  Where  the  three  sets  of 
beds  are  planted  close  together,  as  drawn,  the  two  outer  ones  may  be  filled 
as  follows :  Nos.  4  4,  Tulip  Keizerskroon,  scarlet,  with  yellow  border ; 
double  white  Arabis  as  a  groundwork.  Nos.  5  5,  Tulip  Queen  of  the 
Netherlands,  blush  colour;  Aubrietia  Leichtlinii.  Nos.  6  6,  Tulip 
Duchess  of  Parma,  orange  red,  yellow  border;  groundwork  of  white 
Arabis.  All  other  divisions,  Nos.  7777,  filled  with  Hyacinths  King  of 
the  Blues  and  L' Innocence,  blue  and  white  respectively,  and  single- 
flowered  Arabis  alpina  as  an  edging  only,  but  not  as  a  groundwork  for  all 
the  Hyacinths.  No.  i  in  Fig.  2  may  be  filled  with  Hyacinth  gigantea, 
or  Norma  or  Moreno,  all  pink-flowered,  and  La  Grandesse,  white,  with  a 
groundwork  of  Forget-me-not,  or  an  edging,  No.  2,  of  the  latter  plant. 
Nos.  3  3  and  Nos.  4  4,  Tulip  Dusart,  dark  red,  and  Arabis  alpina, 


62 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


respectively  ;  Nos.  5  5  and  Nos.  6  6,  Hyacinth  Grand  Maitre,  light  blue, 
and  single-flowered  Arabis,  respectively ;  Nos.  7  7,  Tulip  Mon  Tresor, 
yellow ;  Nos.  8  8,  Aubrietia  Crimson  King,  dark  red  ;  Nos.  9  9,  Tulip 
Rose  Gris  de  Lin,  a  pale  rose ;  and  Nos.  10  10,  Silene  pendula  compacta 
or  Silene  acaulis,  both  pink-flowered. 

The  Soil  and  the  Planting.— As  it  is  not  desirable  that  the  ground- 
work plants  should  be  very  gross  in  growth,  manures  must  not  be  applied 
to  the  soil  in  such  a  way  that  their  roots  will  come  in  direct  contact  with 
it  long  before  the  flower-buds  are  formed.  The  necessary  rotted  manure 
must  be  dug  in  very  early  before  the  bulbs  are  planted.  The  surface  or 
groundwork  plants  must  be  put  in  first.  Where  bulbs  are  associated 
with  other  kinds  of  plants,  it  is  well  to  allow  them  more  space  than  in 


B 


-LL 


X  ZL 

FIG.  3. — Useful  Designs  for  Summer  Bedding. 

cases  where  they  alone  occupy  the  beds.  The  surface  plants  must  be 
put  in  far  enough  apart  to  allow  of  due  expansion  of  growth  without 
overcrowding.  These  should,  when  in  full  bloom,  form  a  dense  carpet 
or  a  compact  edging,  as  the  case  may  be. 


Summer  Bedding. — The  filling  of  beds  or  borders  with 
summer-flowering  plants  is  very  interesting  work.  Those 
who  have  had  considerable  experience  know  quite  well  that 
the  best  effects  are  obtained  when  the  designs  are  simple. 
Complicated  designs  cannot  well  be  worked  out  unless  the 
beds  are  very  large  and  small-growing  kinds  of  plants  are 
used,  such  as  those  employed  in  carpet-bedding. 

The  accompanying  designs  may  be  easily  made  by  an 
inexperienced  person,  and  also  as  easily  filled  with  in- 
expensive as  with  the  more  choice  and  expensive  kinds 
of  plants. 


SPRING  AND   SUMMER   BEDDING  63 

Fig.  3,  Circular  Bed:  A,  Zonal  Pelargonium  Paul  Crampel ;  B, 
Zonal  Pelargonium  Flower  of  Spring ;  c,  white-flowered  or  cream 
tuberous  Begonias ;  D,  tuberous  Begonias,  mixed  colours ;  E,  white 
Violas  as  a  broad  edging. 

The  Same  Bed  Filled  with  Annuals. — A,  Eschscholtzias ;  B,  Godetia 
Duchess  of  Albany,  white ;  c,  Jacobea  elegans  alba ;  D,  Godetias,  mixed 
colours  ;  E,  Nemophila  insignis,  blue,  as  a  broad  edging. 

Fig.  3,  Oblong  Bed:  A,  Fuchsia  Mrs.  Marshall;  B,  Zonal  Pelar- 
gonium Paul  Crampel ;  c,  pink-flowered  fibrous-rooted  Begonias  ;  D, 
blue  Lobelia. 

The  Same  Bed  Filled  with  Annuals.— A,  Salpiglossis,  mixed  colours ; 
B,  Linum  grandiflorum  rubrum ;  c,  Saponaria  alba ;  D,  Mignonette  as 
an  edging. 

Fig.  4  shows  a  long,  narrow  border.  Such  borders  are  formed  near 
paths  as  well  as  on  lawns,  and  with  Box  or  tile  edgings.  They  may  be 


c 


nr 

FIG.  4. — Plan  of  a  Narrow  Border  on  a  Lawn. 

planted  with  different  kinds  of  plants  in  straight  lines  (to  form  ribbon 
borders)  or  in  scrolls,  as  well  as  in  the  way  shown.  A,  Zonal  Pelargonium 
Henry  Jacoby  ;  B,  Heliotrope  ;  c,  Zonal  Pelargoniums  Flower  of  Spring 
or  Little  Dandy  as  an  edging. 

The  Same  Border  Filled  with  Annuals.— A,  Zinnia  elegans  grandi- 
ftora  robusta  plenissima ;  B,  Phlox  Drummondii,  mixed  colours ;  c, 
Tagetes  signata  pumila.  The  different  kinds  of  plants  recommended 
will  continue  to  flower  throughout  the  summer  months,  so  that  there 
will  be  no  gaps  or  lack  of  blossom  at  any  time,  a  very  important  matter. 

Distance  Apart  for  the  Plants. — Zonal  Pelargoniums,  i  foot ; 
those  used  for  edgings  must  be  planted  closer.  Tuberous  Begonias, 
i  foot  to  15  inches  ;  fibrous-rooted  Begonias,  8  inches  ;  Violas,  8  inches  to 
10  inches,  according  to  the  size  of  the  plants  when  put  out ;  Heliotrope, 
15  inches  (these  plants  spread) ;  Salpiglossis,  14  inches ;  Godetias, 
10  inches  ;  Nemophila,  7  inches.  Mignonette  must  be  thinned  out  to 
6  inches  apart  from  seedling  to  seedling. 

The  Soil. — This  must  not  be  made  very  rich  for  Zonal  Pelargoniums  ; 
moderately  rich  for  Heliotrope,  Mignonette,  Begonias,  and  Nemophila ; 


64 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


not  very  rich  for  Phlox  Drummondii  ;  rich  for  Salpiglossis  and  Godetias. 
All  organic  manure  used  so  late  in  the  season  must  be  well  rotted. 

A  large,  square-shaped  bed  may  be  effectively  planted  in 
a  variety  of  ways.  Of  course,  only  one  design  is  given  in  the 
accompanying  plan,  but  I  will  mention  others  very  briefly. 
The  whole  of  the  body  of  the  bed  may  be  filled  with  tuberous 
Begonias  and  edged  with  Violas,  or  it  may  contain  one  variety 
of  a  Zonal  Pelargonium  and  have  an  edging  of  blue  Lobelia. 
Heliotrope,  with  dot  plants  of  Fuchsias,  would  look  charming, 
the  edging  consisting  of  white  Lobelia  or  white  Violas.  Sal- 


D 


FIG.  5.— An  Oblong  Bed  to  be  filled  with  Bedding  Plants  or  Annuals. 


vias,  with  dot  plants  of  Liliums  and  blue  Violas,  Ageratum  or 
blue  Lobelia,  would  also  look  effective. 

Fig.  5  as  drawn.  The  centre.  A,  white  Marguerites ;  the  whole 
space  surrounding  A,  yellow  Calceolarias ;  BB,  Zonal  Pelargonium  King 
of  Denmark  ;  cc,  white  or  cream-coloured  tuberous  Begonias  ;  D,  Zonal 
Pelargonium  Golden  Harry  Hieover. 

The  Same  Bed  Filled  with  Annuals.— The  centre,  A,  annual  Chrys- 
anthemums ;  the  whole  space  surrounding  the  centre,  A,  Phlox  Drum- 
mondii ;  BB,  Zinnias  ;  cc,  Nasturtiums  King  of  Tom  Thumbs  (scarlet) ; 
D,  Mignonette  or  Portulaca  grandiflora ;  the  latter  would  make  a  border 
of  mixed  colours. 


SPRING   AND   SUMMER   BEDDING  65 

Fig.  6 :  A,  Fuchsia  Lord  Roberts  ;  B,  pink-flowered  Zonal  Pelargon- 
iums ;  c,  an  edging  of  Ageratum. 

The  Same  Bed  Filled  with 
Annuals. — A,  Calliopsis  atros- 
anguinea,  scarlet  flowers ;  B, 
Mignonette ;  c,  an  edging  of 
Nasturtium  minus  coccineum, 
rich  scarlet  crimson. 

Fig.  7:  A,  single-flowered 
Petunias,  mixed  ;  B,  brown  Cal- 
ceolarias ;  c,  an  edging  of  ger- 
anium Little  Dandy.  A  dot 
plant  of  Kochia  in  the  centre  of 
A  would  look  charming. 

The  Same  Bed  Filled  with 
Annuals. — A,  Stocks,  mixed  ;  B, 
Asters,  mixed  ;  c,  an  edging  of 
Mignonette. 

An  Alternative  Scheme.— 

A,  Godetia   Duchess  of  Albany, ,.  ,  , 

uv  r  A  +•       T    A       *  iu      FIG.  6.— A  Star-shaped  Bed  is  much  favoured 

white ;    B,    Godetia    Lady  Albe-  b    Suburban  Gardeners, 

marie,   crimson ;    c,    an   edging 
of  Nemophila  insignis,  blue. 

Distance  Apart  to  Plant. — Marguerites,  18  inches  to  22  inches; 
Fuchsias,  according  to  the  size  of  the  plants,  so  that  when  at  their  best 


FIG.  7. — A  Diamond-shaped  Bed  is  often  useful  in  awkward-shaped  Grass  Plots. 

E 


66  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

they  will  not  be  overcrowded.    Dot  plants  used,  if  2  feet  high,  must  not 
be  closer  than  3  feet  6  inches. 

Soil  and  Manure. — Some  lighter  material  must  be  put  in  for  Fuchsias 
if  the  original  soil  be  clayey.  Marguerites  and  Petunias  must  not  be 
planted  in  very  rich  soil.  Nasturtiums  require  to  be  grown  in  poor 
ground  ;  then  the  plants  make  moderate  growth  and  flower  well.  Over- 
crowding is  a  common  error  in  bedding,  it  being  a  mistake  to  grow  six 
plants  where  one  will  suffice. 


ROSES 


A  GOOD  start  in  Rose-growing  is  most  essential.  Many 
failures  in  gardening  are  simply  the  result  of  beginning  in  an 
unreasonable  way,  thinking  nothing  perhaps  of  the  soil,  the 
varieties,  whether  they  are  vigorous,  free,  or  the  reverse,  and 
the  treatment  necessary  to  ensure  a  happy  life.  The  Rose  is 
the  flower  of  the  English  garden,  and  its  value  increases  as  we 
grow  accustomed  to  the  charms  of  the  Tea-scented  varieties, 
and  know  something  of  the  wonderful  beauty  of  the  climbers, 
the  Dorothy  Perkins,  Tausendschon,  and  many  other  ram- 
bling kinds  that  fling  their  flower-laden  shoots  over  arch, 
pergola,  and  pillar,  and  sometimes  look  into  the  window  to 
flood  the  house  with  perfume. 

The  Soil  is  a  matter  of  some  importance,  but  the  great  majority  of 
growers  are  compelled  to  make  the  best  of  the  garden  as  it  is,  and  are  not 
in  a  position  to  bring  in  a  large  amount  of  fresh  material.  Ground  that  has 
been  occupied  with  vegetables  is  usually  in  excellent  condition  for  Roses. 
The  best  position  in  the  garden  should  be  given  to  the  Roses.  It  is 
unreasonable  to  expect  an  abundant  harvest  of  flowers  from  plants 
under  the  shade  of  trees,  or  soil  already  filled  with  roots  from  a  neigh- 
bouring shrubbery. 

We  will  assume,  therefore,  that  the  bed  is  in  the  centre  of  the  garden, 
or  some  spot  about  which  the  ardent  rosarian  would  not  quarrel.  The 
Rose  absolutely  revels  in  sunshine  and  air,  and  the  aspect  cannot  be  too 
carefully  selected  for  the  bed.  A  convenient  size  for  the  bed  would 
be  about  20  feet  long  and  6  feet  wide.  This  would  provide  space 
for  about  thirty  Rose  bushes.  The  preparation  of  the  bed  is  of  first 
importance,  and  should  be  carried  out,  if  possible,  not  later  than 
September,  if  autumn  planting  (by  far  the  best)  be  adopted.  Unques- 
tionably the  best  soil  for  all  Roses  (except  those  of  the  Tea-scented  and 
allied  tribes)  is  a  strong,  rather  heavy,  even  clayey  loam.  In  this  soil 
the  Hybrid  Perpetual  kinds  are  very  happy,  but  if  light  and  sandy,  then 
the  Tea-scented  and  Hybrid  Teas  should  predominate.  In  making  pre- 
paration for  bastard  trenching  or  double  digging  the  bed,  mark  out  the 
length  and  width  with  a  line. 

Divide  the  bed  off  into  six  sections  as  illustrated  on  next  page.  The 
soil  of  section  A  is  dug  out  to  the  depth  of  the  spade  and  placed  on  the 
path  at  the  other  end  of  the  bed,  C.  The  broken  soil  is  then  shovelled  out 
and  placed  at  C  also.  The  second  or  lower  spit  of  section  A  is  then  broken 

67 


68 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


up  with  a  four-pronged  fork,  well  incorporating  with  the  soil  thoroughly 
decayed  farmyard  or  stable  manure.  The  soil  must  not  be  brought  to 
the  top,  but  kept  in  the  same  place.  When  this  second  spit  appears 
heavily  charged  with  water,  artificially  drain  the  bed.  To  do  this,  the 
second  spit  must  be  thrown  out,  and  about  4  inches  or  5  inches  of 
large  stones,  clinkers,  or  broken  bricks  put  in  the  bottom,  and  the  second 
spit  returned.  It  is  wise  to  raise  the  bed  4  inches  or  5  inches  when 
the  soil  is  badly  drained,  as  stagnation  means  that  the  young  roots  rot 
away.  When  manure  has  been  mixed  with  the  bottom  spit,  the  top  spit 


B 


of  section  B  is  put  into  section  A.  The  shovellings  of  section  B  placed 
in  A  will  complete  the  first  trench.  When  much  manure,  either  liquid 
or  solid,  has  been  used  on  the  soil  in  the  past,  a  dressing  of  chalk  would 
improve  its  fertility  if  incorporated  with  the  surface  soil  at  the  rate  of 
two  pounds  per  square  yard.  When  the  soil  is  very  light,  i.e.  sandy  or 
gritty,  put  a  good  layer  of  cow  manure  during  trenching  below  the 
bottom  spit  of  soil.  Burnt  weeds  and  other  garden  refuse  are  excellent 
to  mix  with  the  top  soil.  These  may  appear  unnecessarily  elaborate 
preparations,  but  the  bed  when  thoroughly  made  will  last  for  years, 
with  the  usual  attention  required  by  the  plants.  A  pint  of  bone-meal 
to  every  square  yard  should  be  well  mixed  with  the  top  spit. 

Purchasing. — Give  the  order  to  the  nurseryman  early,  or,  better 
still,  go  to  the  nursery  and  bring  the  plants  back  with  you.  If  foliage 
is  still  on  the  growths  cut,  not  pull,  it  off,  and  to  prevent  the  wood 
shrivelling,  make  a  trench  in  a  shady  spot  and  place  the  roots  of  the 
bushes  in  it,  covering  them  with  soil  until  they  can  be  properly  planted. 
If  the  arrangement  of  the  kinds  has  been  well  considered  on  paper  the 
Roses  should  be  so  laid  in  the  trench  as  to  enable  them  to  be  drawn  out 
as  required  without  disturbing  the  others.  Do  not  leave  their  roots 
exposed  to  the  air  for  even  a  few  minutes.  Tea  Roses  are  best  upon 
the  seedling  or  cutting  briar,  and  the  last-mentioned  is  the  best  stock 
for  the  Hybrid  Perpetuals. 

Planting. — Early  planting  is  one  of  the  most  important  points,  and 
choose  from  the  middle  of  October  to  the  end  of  November.  Roses 
may,  however,  be  planted  in  the  spring,  or  in  winter  when  the  weather 
is  favourable.  When  about  to  plant  have  a  bucket  of  water  ready  at 
hand  to  dip  the  roots  in.  Keep  the  roots  covered  with  a  sack  or  mat 
until  required.  Trim  over  the  jagged  ends  of  the  roots  with  a  sharp 
knife,  and  if  the  branches  are  more  than  2  feet  in  length  cut  the  surplus 
away,  as  this  prevents  the  wind  from  moving  the  stems  to  and  fro  after 
the  plants  are  in  their  places.  In  planting  make  a  hole  in  the  soil  about 
one  foot  each  way,  and  deep  enough  to  allow  space  for  the  roots  to  be 


1==      ri 

U    BETTY 


RUSTIC    TRELLIS 


SNIVIM^d 


PLAN  OF  A   SUNK  ROSE  GARDEN  AT  CARROW 
ABBEY,    NORWICH. 


ROSES  69 

spread  out  carefully.  Dwarf  or  bush  Roses  are  either  on  their  own  roots, 
that  is  to  say,  struck  from  cuttings,  or  budded  upon  a  foster  stock.  This 
foster  stock  is  of  four  kinds — the  Briar-cutting,  the  Seedling  Briar, 
Manetti,  and  De  la  Grifferaie.  These  are  described  under  the  heading 
of  Stocks.  All  these  stocks  spread  their  roots  outwards,  except  the 
seedling  briar,  which  makes  a  long  tap-root,  and  must  be  shortened  to 
prevent  it  going  too  deep  into  the  cold  soil  below  the  first  spit.  Place 
the  junction  between  scion  and  stock  an  inch  below  the  surface  (not 
more)  as  shown  in  the  illustrations.  The  roots  having  been  dipped  in 
water,  hold  the  plant  in  the  left  hand  and  arrange  the  fibres  to  the 
right  and  left.  It  is  not  labour  lost  to  prepare  ready  a  bushel  or 
two  of  fine  soil  for  placing  immediately  over  the  roots.  Give  them 
a  thin  covering  of  this,  and  lift  the  plant  gently  up  and  down  to 
allow  the  soil  to  run  among  the  fine  roots.  Now  shovel  on  a  little  more 
soil,  then  give  each  plant  a  good  handful  of  bone-meal  well  scattered 
around  it.  Put  some  more  soil  on  and  tread  firmly.  Roses  like  firm 
planting  when  the  land  is  not  wet.  Do  not  quite  fill  up  the  hole.  When 
a  saucer-like  cavity  is  left  around  each  plant  this  facilitates  watering 
should  the  weather  remain  dry.  After  the  plants  have  been  in  the  soil 
about  a  week  give  one  good  watering,  unless  rain  has  intervened,  then 
fill  up  the  cavity  with  fine  dusty  soil  and  allow  this  to  remain  as  loose 
as  possible.  Do  not  plant  when  the  ground  is  wet  and  sticky,  but  leave 
the  plants  in  the  trenches.  When  planting  is  finished  the  surface  soil 
should  be  left  rough,  not  raked  over  and  made  neat.  Earth  up  the 
bushes  in  November  in  the  same  way  one  would  Potatoes,  hence  the 
wisdom  of  planting  the  bushes  in  rows.  All  the  growths  covered  with  the 
soil  are  quite  safe  from  severe  frosts.  The  Hybrid  Perpetuals  should 
be  earthed  up  as  well  as  the  Teas.  One  never  knows  the  kind  of  winter 
to  expect,  and  there  is  comfort  in  the  thought  that  the  Roses  are  safe. 
Even  when  the  soil  is  frozen  very  hard  the  growths  remain  uninjured. 
When  Roses  for  some  good  reason  cannot  be  planted  in  November  wait 
until  February  and  March  unless  one  is  blessed  with  a  fine  January.  In 
the  case  of  deferred  planting  prune  the  plants  back  to  three  inches  or 
four  inches  from  the  base  before  planting.  Remember  that  it  is  unwise 
to  allow  fresh  manure  to  come  immediately  into  contact  with  the  roots. 

To  plant  a  bed  20  feet  by  6  feet  containing  a  good  representative 
collection,  and  arranged  according  to  habit  of  growth,  having  the  strongest 
in  the  centre  row,  the  following  diagram  will  indicate  the  position  of 
each  variety  according  to  the  number  against  the  name  : — 

20  feet. 


1234567  9        10 

ii        12        13       14        15        16       17        18       19       20 

21  22  23  24  25  26  27  28  29  30 


yo  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

Distance  to  Plant — Bush  Roses  may  be  planted  as  close  together  as 
14  inches  in  the  rows,  and  18  inches  from  row  to  row,  but  18  inches  to 
24  inches  each  way  is  better.  Many  growers  for  exhibition  prune  their 
plants  severely  (a  practice  alluded  to  under  the  head  of  pruning),  then 
14  inches  is  sufficient.  Standard  Roses  are  usually  given  a  distance  of 
2  feet  6  inches  to  3  feet  each  way. 

Stocks  for  Roses. — Many  beginners,  when  ordering  Roses,  desire 
them  on  "  their  own  roots."  It  should  be  clearly  understood  what  an  own- 
root  Rose  is :  it  is  one  raised  from  a  cutting  of  any  particular  variety ; 
but  an  ordinary  bush  Rose  is  one  that  is  budded  or  grafted  upon  a  foster 
stock,  either  in  the  stem  near  the  root  or  upon  the  root  itself.  Own-root 
or  cutting  Roses  are  very  satisfactory  for  some  varieties,  but  they  are  not 
always  procurable.  The  foster  stocks  usually  employed  are  the  Manetti ; 
Hedge  Briars  from  cuttings  known  as  the  Briar-cutting  ;  Briars  from  seed 
known  as  seedling  briars,  Hedge  Briars  to  make  Standard  or  Tree  Roses, 
De  la  Grifferaie,  and  Polyantha  stocks.  But  Roses  may  be  budded  upon 
almost  any  variety  of  Rose — in  fact,  one  could  bud  an  old  Rose  all  over 
with  a  modem  kind  if  so  desired.  Where  a  foster  stock  is  used  there  is 
always  a  danger  of  suckers  springing  up  and  choking,  as  it  were,  the 
kind  we  desire  to  possess.  We  have  known  instances  where  Marechal 
Niel  has  been  planted  and  the  plant  killed  by  frost.  The  owner,  however, 
was  unaware  of  this,  and  instead  of  the  Marechal  Niel  he  cultivated  for 
some  time  the  stock  that  sprang  up  from  the  roots,  and  wondered  why 
it  produced  only  tiny  pink  flowers  instead  of  rich  blossoms  filled  with 
perfume.  It  may  be  as  well  to  briefly  describe  the  Manetti,  Briar, 
De  la  Griff  eraie,  and  Polyantha  stocks. 

The  Manetti  Stock  cannot  be  mistaken  for  the  cultivated  Rose. 
The  foliage  is  of  a  tender  grass-green  colour,  the  leaves  seven  in  number, 
whereas  most  of  the  Hybrid  Perpetual,  Tea,  and  Hybrid  Tea  tribes  have 
five  only ;  the  wood  in  the  young  sucker  state  is  a  reddish  brown,  and 
the  prickles  of  the  same  colour.  In  about  two  inches  of  its  growth  there 
are  two  or  three  large  prickles,  interspersed  among  them  being  numerous 
tiny  prickles  resembling  the  cylinder  of  a  musical-box. 

The  Briar  Stock  is  so  well  known  that  it  seems  superfluous  to 
describe  it.  There  are,  however,  many  varieties  of  the  Wild  Briar, 
some  of  them  much  resembling  the  Ayrshire  Roses,  but  the  usual  form 
is  very  prickly,  the  foliage  of  a  dull  dark  green,  and  there  are  seven 
leaves  on  a  stalk. 

The  De  la  Grifferaie  Stock  may  deceive  the  novice.  It  has  large 
leaves  like  a  cultivated  Rose,  but  they  have  a  peculiar  downy  appearance 
and  are  purplish-green  in  the  young  state.  The  wood  is  thick  and  of  a 
red  colour,  spines  large  and  about  equal  in  size.  The  tip  of  the  growth 
has  quite  a  mealy  look. 

The  Polyantha  Stock  has  a  flower  like  the  Blackberry,  nine  leaves 
on  a  stalk,  very  pale  but  dull  green,  and  the  edges  are  prettily  notched. 
The  tip  of  the  growth  is  downy,  and  the  wood  is  green  with  brownish 
spines. 

The  Rugosa  Stock. — This  is   Rosa  rugosa,  a   well-known   garden 


THREE   GOOD    GARDEN  ROSES— 
Yellow :  A.  R.  GOODWIN. 
Pink :  LADY  ALICE  STANLEY. 
Red :  GEORGE  C.  WAUD. 


ROSES  71 

species.  During  recent  years  it  has  been  extensively  used  by  some 
nurserymen  for  making  standard  or  tree  Roses,  as  well  as  weeping 
standards.  It  is  claimed  for  it  that  it  will,  owing  to  the  fibrous  char- 
acter of  its  roots,  transplant  better  than  the  ordinary  Briar,  and,  owing 
to  its  comparatively  shallow  rooting,  does  better  than  the  Briar  stock 
on  light  or  sandy  soil. 

As  the  best  bush  Roses  can  be  obtained  from  the  leading  growers 
from  ninepence  to  one  shilling  each,  probably  it  would  not  pay  the 
beginner  to  bud  his  own  Roses.  Later  on,  however,  he  may  wish  to  do 
so.  As  the  cuttings  are  inserted  in  September  at  the  same  time  as  those 
of  cultivated  Roses  the  method  is  described  under  the  heading  of  propaga- 
tion by  cuttings  (p.  77),  and  as  for  the  seedling  briars  it  is  not  worth  the 
trouble  involved  for  the  amateur  to  attempt  to  raise  them,  when  they  can 
be  bought  so  cheaply.  Stocks  planted  for  budding  should  be  secured  in 
the  autumn,  the  roots  put  into  some  soil  temporarily,  and  protected  from 
frost  until  February.  When  planted  before  this,  hard  frost  is  liable  to 
raise  the  plants  out  of  the  ground.  Plant  them  in  rows  2  feet  apart  in 
the  best  position,  and  the  stocks  8  inches  apart.  If  they  are  to  remain 
permanently  where  planted,  and  this  plan  is  strongly  advised,  more 
space  should  be  given  between  the  plants,  say  12  inches.  Dwarf  stocks 
must  be  planted  rather  shallow,  their  roots  being  about  6  inches  below 
the  surface.  When  about  to  bud  the  stocks  hoe  the  soil  away,  so  that 
the  root  stem  is  accessible. 

Standard  briars  may  be  bought  from  labourers  for  one  shilling  to 
one  shilling  and  sixpence  per  dozen,  but  do  not  buy  them  unless  they 
have  some  small  fibrous  roots,  and  see  that  they  are  not  green  and 
sappy.  Plant  these  briars  in  November  in  rows  3  feet  apart  and  12  inches 
asunder  in  the  rows,  and  their  roots  about  8  inches  deep.  All  stocks 
should  be  grown  in  good  soil,  and  hoe  frequently  and  deeply.  Thin 
the  growth  of  standard  stocks  in  June,  retaining  three  of  the  best  to 
receive  the  buds. 

Pruning. — When  pruning  Roses  the  first  thing  is  to  determine 
whether  the  object  in  view  is  to  obtain  Roses  for  exhibition  or  Roses 
for  the  decoration  of  the  garden,  because  the  pruning  that  would  be 
suitable  in  the  one  case  would  be  unsuitable  in  the  other.  The  following 
notes  and  illustrations  refer  to  the  pruning  of  Roses  for  the  garden,  and 
not  for  the  purpose  of  securing  blooms  for  exhibition.  The  exhibitor 
who  wants  the  very  best  blooms  he  can  get,  even  if  he  has  a  small  number 
on  each  plant,  prunes  his  Rose  trees  much  harder  than  the  man  who 
prefers  to  have  more  blooms  or  poorer  quality,  although  they  may  be 
beautiful  in  the  garden  and  valuable  for  cut  flowers.  Naturally,  the 
farther  back  one  cuts  the  shoots  the  fewer  buds  there  will  be  to  burst 
into  growth  and  the  stronger  the  resulting  shoots  will  be.  The  Rose 
grower  who  does  not  care  to  sacrifice  quantity  for  the  sake  of  a  finer 
quality  prunes  more  lightly ;  that  is  to  say,  he  leaves  the  shoots  longer, 
with  the  result  that  they  produce  more  shoots,  though  they  may  be  less 
vigorous  and  bear  flowers  that  from  the  point  of  view  of  the  exhibitor 
may  be  wanting  in  size  and  form.  Some  of  the  stronger-growing  Hybrid 


72  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

Perpetuals  and  Hybrid  Teas  will,  if  pruned  lightly  after  they  have  been 
planted  two  years,  develop  into  large  bushes,  giving  an  abundance  of 
blossoms.  Such  plants,  however,  are  useless  to  the  exhibitor  who  places 
size  and  form  high  in  the  list  of  qualities  a  Rose  bloom  should  possess. 
In  the  Rose  garden,  however,  they  are  delightful  objects,  and  yield  a 
profusion  of  flowers  for  cutting.  The  exhibitor's  Rose  garden  is  not,  as 
a  rule,  a  thing  beautiful  to  look  upon,  since  his  efforts  are  directed 
towards  the  production  of  individual  blooms  of  quality  and  not  towards 
making  the  beds  and  borders  a  mass  of  flowers. 

Pruning  Explained. — What  is  Rose  pruning  ?  In  what  are  usually 
termed  garden  Roses  it  consists  of  cutting  back  the  growths  made  last 
year  more  or  less  according  to  the  variety,  removing  weakly  growths, 
unripened  wood  and  surplus  shoots,  also  any  which  cross  each  other. 
The  shoots  must  always  be  cut  back  to  an  "  eye  "  or  bud,  which  are  in 
the  axils  of  last  year's  leaves.  Most  of  the  leaves  have  fallen,  leaving 
the  buds  exposed.  At  the  first  sign  of  spring  some  of  these  will  com- 
mence to  grow,  especially  those  near  the  ends  of  the  shoots  on  Tea  Roses. 
The  probability  is  that  the  cold  winds  and  spring  frosts  will  kill  them. 
However,  these  buds  would  probably  be  cut  off  when  pruning  later  on, 
and  the  cultivator  has  the  satisfaction  of  knowing  that  the  buds  near 
the  base  of  last  year's  growth  have  not  started. 

What  to  Prune  With. — It  may  be  that  when  visiting  a  large  garden 
where  thousands  of  Roses  are  grown  one  has  seen  secateurs  used  for 
pruning.  To  prune  all  these  with  a  knife  would  take  more  time  than 
could  be  spared.  A  sharp  knife  should  always  be  used  when  possible, 
it  makes  a  much  cleaner  cut ;  secateurs  bruise  the  wood  and  bark. 
Always  commence  to  make  the  cut  on  the  side  of  the  shoot  opposite 
the  bud.  About  on  a  level  with  the  bud  make  a  slightly  upward  cut, 
the  knife  will  then  cut  the  wood  on  the  opposite  side  just  above  the 
bud  that  is  to  be  left. 

When  to  Prune. — From  the  middle  to  the  end  of  March  is  the  best 
time.  Commence  with  the  Hybrid  Perpetuals,  leaving  the  Teas  until 
last.  If  cold  winds  and  spring  frosts  are  prevalent  it  will  be  better  to 
defer  pruning  these  till  April.  How  much  or  how  little  to  prune  depends 
largely  on  the  class  and  the  individual  variety.  Roses,  however,  vary 
considerably  in  growth,  some  sorts  making  much  more  vigorous  shoots 
than  others  even  in  the  same  class.  If  not  carefully  watched,  the  pruning 
of  Roses  year  after  year  has  the  tendency  to  leave  a  lot  of  old  wood  at 
the  base.  If  possible,  one  or  two  of  these  old  shoots  should  be  cut  clean 
out  each  year.  This  usually  ensures  a  good  supply  of  young  wood. 
Before  commencing  what  may  be  termed  "  pruning  proper,"  all  weak, 
unripened  wood  must  be  removed.  The  shape  of  the  bush  has  to  be 
considered.  Too  many  of  the  best  shoots  must  not,  of  course,  be  sacri- 
ficed, but  a  little  regard  should  be  paid  to  the  shape  of  the  bush.  To 
strengthen  weak-growing  sorts,  cut  back  last  year's  growth  to  within 
one  or  two  buds  of  the  old  wood.  Likewise,  when  dealing  with  strong- 
growing  sorts,  half  a  dozen  or  more  buds  should  be  left,  so  that  the 
energy  of  the  plant  is  distributed,  not  confined  to  one  or  two  buds. 


. 

II 


ROSES  73 

Again,  if  good  quality  blooms  are  desired  rather  than  quantity,  the 
shoots  must  be  cut  rather  harder. 

Hybrid  Perpetuals. — These  vary  considerably  in  growth ;  some 
sorts  are  much  more  vigorous  than  others.  A  good  general  rule  to  follow 
is  to  cut  back  the  less  vigorous  varieties  to  within  3  inches  or  4  inches 
of  the  old  wood,  varying  this  according  to  the  habit  of  growth,  leaving 
in  the  case  of  the  vigorous-growing  sorts  9  inches  to  i  foot  of  the  previous 
year's  growth  (see  illustrations). 

Hybrid  Teas. — This  group  is  by  far  the  most  useful  for  garden 
decoration.  This  section  does  not  require  such  hard  pruning  as  the 
Hybrid  Perpetuals.  If,  however,  good  quality  rather  than  quantity  of 
blooms  is  desired,  cut  back  the  strong-growing  sorts  to  within  4  inches 
or  5  inches  of  the  old  wood.  Thinning  out  of  weak  shoots  is  very  im- 
portant to  allow  the  strong  shoots  to  develop.  These  can  be  left  12  inches 
to  15  inches  in  length.  If  there  is  room  to  peg  down  the  shoots  the 
entire  length,  blooms  will  be  produced  from  every  bud.  The  side  growths 
should  be  cut  back  to  one  or  two  buds.  There  are  in  this  section  a 
number  of  weak-growing  sorts — Liberty  and  White  Lady,  for  example — 
which  are  better  if  cut  fairly  hard  back,  say,  to  within  3  inches  or  4  inches 
of  the  old  wood  (see  illustrations). 

Teas. — The  growths  of  the  plants  in  this  group  suffer  rather  severely 
from  frost  except  where  well  protected.  With  many  of  the  bushes  all 
that  is  necessary  is  to  cut  off  the  injured  shoots  and  remove  the  pithy 
and  weakly  growths.  Where  the  plants  have  been  protected,  cut  back 
the  weak  growers  to  within  about  3  inches,  and  the  strong  growers  to 
8  inches  or  9  inches  of  the  old  wood  (see  illustrations). 

Standards. — These  are  usually  cut  back  on  the  same  lines  as  advised 
for  bush  Roses,  but  rather  hard  to  keep  the  heads  in  shape,  although 
during  recent  years  standards  with  large  heads  are  becoming  more 
popular,  while  weeping  standards  of  Wichuraiana  Roses  are  very  beauti- 
ful. From  the  latter  remove  thin,  weakly  shoots,  allowing  those  which 
remain  plenty  of  space. 

Climbing  Roses. — Broadly  speaking,  the  chief  point  to  be  remem- 
bered when  pruning  climbing  and  dwarf  Roses  is  that  while  the  latter 
produce  their  flowers  on  the  shoots  that  will  grow  during  the  coming 
summer — on  the  current  year's  shoots — the  blooms  of  the  climbing  Rose 
come  from  older  shoots  and  largely  from  those  of  the  previous  year. 
Thus  the  pruning  that  suits  the  interests  of  one  class  would  be  ruinous 
to  those  of  the  other.  The  best  time  to  do  the  chief  pruning  among 
climbing  Roses  is  soon  after  the  flowering  season  is  over.  If  this  is 
carried  out  the  only  thing  to  do  in  spring — the  correct  time  to  prune 
bush  and  standard  Roses — is  to  cut  off  a  few  inches,  6  inches,  9  inches 
or  12  inches,  as  may  be  necessary,  from  the  ends  of  the  shoots  if  the 
wood  there  is  green  and  soft,  or  as  generally  termed  "  unripened."  Such 
soft  wood  as  this  is  of  no  value,  and  its  buds  would  not  burst  into  growth 
of  sufficient  strength  to  produce  flowers.  Moreover,  cutting  off  the 
unripened  end  strengthens  the  remainder  of  the  shoot  and  helps  to 
produce  stronger  flowering  growths.  The  Rose  grower  should  always 


74  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

endeavour  to  have  as  many  one-year-old  shoots  in  his  climbers  as  possible, 
as  there  should  not,  as  a  rule,  be  any  shoots  more  than  three  years  old* 
This,  of  course,  cannot  be  laid  down  as  a  hard  and  fast  rule,  but  it  serves 
to  show  the  value  of  having  as  many  young  shoots  as  possible  and  the 
disadvantage  of  having  old  ones.  The  latter  only  produce  flowers  on 
the  lateral  or  side  growths  that  have  formed  on  the  main  stem.  In 
March  these  side  shoots  are  cut  back  to  within  two  or  three  buds  of  the 
base,  so  as  to  induce  the  formation  of  flowering  shoots  as  strong  as 
possible.  The  shoots  made  last  year  produce  flowering  shoots  from 
almost  every  bud ;  it  will  thus  be  apparent  what  a  far  better  display 
of  bloom  the  one-year-old  shoots  give,  as  they  flower  from  the  main 
stem  itself,  while  the  older  shoots  are  able  to  bear  bloom  only  from 
laterals,  not  from  the  main  stem.  Many  of  the  strong-growing  climbing 
Roses  produce  stout  shoots  from  the  base  of  the  plant  every  year,  but 
some  do  not,  and  in  order  to  encourage  them  to  do  so  it  may  be  neces- 
sary to  cut  back  to  within,  say,  6  inches  of  the  ground  in  March  one  at 
least  of  the  strong  shoots.  Roses  such  as  Crimson  Rambler,  Reine  Olga 
de  Wurtemburg,  Dorothy  Perkins,  and  some  others  need  no  such  assist- 
ance to  enable  them  to  send  up  strong  young  shoots  from  near  the 
ground  level,  but  they  are  not  all  so  free  as  these,  and  when  it  becomes 
necessary  a  shoot  must  be  cut  back,  otherwise  the  base  of  the  plant  will 
get  bare,  and  nothing  looks  much  worse  than  a  climbing  Rose  with 
flowers  and  leaves  on  the  top  and  bare  unsightly  stems  below. 

Watering  and  Syringing.—  Instead  of  using  so  much  patent  manure 
use  the  hoe  more  frequently,  and  keep  3  inches  or  4  inches  of  the  surface 
soil  loose.  This  considerably  counteracts  drought ;  it  allows  the  air  to 
penetrate  the  soil,  and  admits  the  warm  rays  of  the  sun.  Always  hoe 
after  rain,  at  each  artificial  watering,  and  use  the  syringe  freely  to  cleanse 
the  foliage.  When  the  garden  is  near  a  large  town  sponge  the  foliage 
now  and  then,  but  avoid  wetting  the  leaves  during  bright  sunshine. 
Syringe  early  in  the  morning,  before  seven  o'clock.  The  city  man  as 
well  as  the  artisan  will  find  the  work  among  Roses  a  delightful  occupa- 
tion, especially  before  breakfast.  When  hoeing  is  constantly  practised 
Roses  will  not  as  a  rule  require  artificial  watering  before  the  flower-buds 
appear,  except  in  very  dry  springs,  and  then  water  only  newly-planted 
kinds.  It  is  when  foliage  is  ample  and  almost  fully  expanded  that  the 
roots  take  up  most  moisture.  The  best  time  to  water  is  the  end  of  May 
and  early  in  June ;  if  dry,  give  a  thorough  good  soaking  with  plain  soft 
water  about  twice  a  week.  The  plants  also  appreciate  gentle  syringing 
in  the  evening  of  a  hot  day.  Mildew  often  results  through  unseasonable 
waterings  and  overdoses  of  artificial  manures,  which  burn  the  tiny 
rootlets.  A  dressing  of  lime  and  soot  soon  after  pruning  is  helpful ; 
indeed,  both  soot  and  lime  are  not  sufficiently  used. 

Manures. — Roses  are  not  gross  feeders,  but  they  like  good  food. 
Phosphates  are  very  important  to  promote  abundant  flowering.  Bone- 
meal,  which  is  so  rich  in  phosphate,  is  an  excellent  fertiliser,  a  light 
sprinkling  in  March  being  very  useful  and  lasting.  Night-soil  is  excel- 
lent, but  must  be  applied  with  care.  Make  a  drill  at  the  end  of  May 


A    HYBRID    TEA    ROSE  :    THE   RESULT   OF   DISBUDDING 


ROSES  75 

down  the  middle  of  the  rows,  as  though  one  were  about  to  sow  beans. 
Pour  the  night-soil  into  the  drill  and  return  the  earth.  The  rains  will 
wash  the  fertiliser  to  the  roots.  Never  give  liquid  manure  in  dry 
weather  unless  plain  water  has  been  previously  applied.  An  excellent 
manure  is  known  as  Tonk's,  and  should  be  applied  early  in  February. 
Hoe  the  ground,  then  sprinkle  all  over  the  soil  at  the  rate  of  £  Ib.  to 
the  square  yard.  The  recipe  is  as  follows  : 

Parts. 

Superphosphate  of  lime 12 

Nitrate  of  potash 10 

Sulphate  of  magnesia 2 

Sulphate  of  iron         .         .        .         .         .         .         .1 

Sulphate  of  lime 8 

Liquid  manure  can  be  easily  made  by  setting  up  a  paraffin  cask  in 
an  out-of-the-way  corner.  Put  a  bushel  of  fresh  cow  manure  into  a  bag, 
tie  the  end  up  loosely,  and  put  the  bag  into  the  cask,  which  should  then 
be  filled  with  water.  Give  this  liquid  in  equal  proportions,  and  change 
the  manure  every  ten  days  or  so.  If  sheep  droppings  are  procurable, 
put  some  in  the  tub  in  addition.  Ichthemic,  or  fish  guano,  is  a  splendid 
stimulant  for  Roses.  Do  not  give  liquid  manure  to  weakly  plants,  only 
to  those  in  full  vigour.  It  must  not  be  given  too  early,  but  wait  until 
the  flower-buds  can  be  just  seen  or  felt  at  the  points  of  the  shoots,  or 
gross,  green-centred  flowers  will  result.  When  the  buds  are  seen,  an 
application  of  manure  water  twice  a  week  may  be  given.  Withhold 
liquid  manure  when  the  flowers  show  colour.  After  first  flowering  a  few 
doses  are  beneficial  to  such  Roses  as  bloom  a  second  time.  Manure 
water  may  be  given  to  Roses  in  winter  to  their  great  advantage. 

Mulching  the  surface  during  June  and  July  is  important.  A  good 
material  is  peat  moss  litter  from  a  good  stable.  Wakeley's  hop  manure 
is  also  valuable.  Hoe  the  surface  deeply  before  applying  it,  then  lay  on 
about  2  or  3  inches. 

Thinning  and  Disbudding. — Pruning  should  be  supplemented  by 
thinning  the  young  shoots  in  May.  Remove  all  that  appear  to  crowd 
the  centre  of  the  plant.  If  one  growth  carries  three  or  four  young 
shoots  at  its  end  this  will  suffice.  Growths  may  be  entirely  removed  in 
May  when  they  appear  too  crowded.  If  variety  is  wanted,  as  well  as 
quality,  put  the  plants  closer,  and  retain  not  more  than  two  of  the  best 
growths  of  the  previous  summer.  Disbudding  usually  applies  to  the 
reduction  of  the  number  of  flower-buds.  Where  show  blooms  are 
required  remove  the  side  buds  and  retain  the  centre  one,  which,  if  faulty, 
must  be  removed,  and  the  best  of  the  side  buds  retained.  (See  illustra- 
tions.) Pinch  off  all  new  growths  as  they  spring  out  of  the  shoot  that  is 
crowned  with  the  flower-bud.  Tea  Roses  require  this  if  show  blooms  are 
desired,  but  for  garden  decoration  leave  them  alone.  Plenty  of  growth 
means  plenty  of  flowers. 

Budding. — This  operation  as  well  as  many  another  in  garden  craft 
is  very  simple  when  the  art  has  been  acquired.  Fig.  8  represents 
a  piece  of  Rose  growth.  At  the  base  of  each  leaf-stalk  is  an  eye,  or 


76 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


B 


leaf-bud,  which  contains  the  germ  of  a  new  plant.  To  be  successful  in 
budding  this  growth  must  be  "  ripe,"  that  is,  it  must  have  flowered,  or 
be  on  the  point  of  so  doing.  The  growths  first  produced  are  the  best 
to  use  for  budding.  They  should  be  firm,  and  the  spines  or  thorns  be 
easily  rubbed  off.  If  the  latter  are  soft  and  juicy  the  wood  is  not  ripe 
enough,  but  it  is  more  important  to  see  that  the  stocks  "  run  well," 
that  is,  there  should  be  an  abundance  of  sap  in  the  plant.  In  a  very 
dry  summer  it  is  sometimes  necessary  to  water  the  stocks  a  day  or  two 

before  budding.  Always  bud 
the  standard  briars  first,  for 
they  cease  to  grow  long  be- 
fore the  dwarf  stocks.  The 
latter  should  be  budded  as 
close  to  the  root  as  possible, 
especially  if  the  plants  are 
wanted  for  potting  up. 
Standard  briars  should  be 
budded  in  July,  and  the 
dwarf  stocks  during  August. 
Insert  the  bud  on  dwarf 
stocks  on  the  west  side  if 
practicable.  During  the  oper- 
ation of  budding  keep  the 
shoots  in  a  jar  of  water, 
previously  cutting  off  the 
leaves  but  retaining  about 
half  an  inch  of  the  leaf -stalk 
so  as  to  obtain  a  firm  hold 
of  the  bud.  Insert  the  knife 
in  the  shoot  about  one  inch 
above  the  bud  as  at  B, 
Fig.  8. 

Cut  thinly  under  the  bark 
and  when  past  the  bud  rend 
it  off.  It  will  then  appear 
as  C  and  D,  Fig.  8.  Hold 
the  bud  between  the  thumb 

and  finger  of  the  left  hand,  and  with  the  point  of  the  knife  lift  up  the 
small  slice  of  wood  attached  to  the  bark  and  jerk  it  out.  As  a  rule  it 
comes  out  easily  enough,  leaving  the  germ  of  the  bud  intact.  If  this  germ 
is  missing,  and  there  is  a  hole  about  the  size  of  a  pin  head  under  the 
bud,  it  is  waste  of  time  to  insert  the  bud.  Some  varieties  behave  in  this 
way  and  must  be  cut  rather  thinner  than  others.  Before  cutting  off 
the  bud  wipe  the  stock  clean  and  make  a  cut  upwards,  and  then  cross- 
wise in  shape  like  the  letter  T  (see  Fig.  9,  A  B).  Do  not  cut  so  deeply 
as  to  injure  the  wood  of  the  stock.  Raise  only  the  bark  gently  on  each 
side  of  the  long  cut  by  inserting  the  bone  of  the  budding  knife.  Then 
insert  the  bud  at  C  and  gently  push  it  down  to  the  end  of  the  cut  D. 


FIG.  8. — Budding  Roses. 


ROSES 


77 


Many  budders  dispense  with  the  cross  cut,  but  it  facilitates  the  insertion 
of  the  bud.  When  the  bud  is  placed  in  position  cut  off  the  surplus 
piece  of  bark  and  bind  up  the  wound  tight  (see  E,  Fig.  9)  with  raffia. 
A  month  after  budding  examine  the  bud,  and  if  found  to  be  dead  another 
should  be  inserted  in  the  opposite  side.  Do  not  touch  the  tops  of  stocks 
until  after  the  leaf  has  fallen,  and  not  then  unless  they  are  wanted  for 
cuttings.  The  time  to  remove  them  is  in  February.  They  are  then  cut 
quite  away  to  within  an 
inch  of  the  bud.  Seed- 
ling briars  are  budded 
in  the  collar,  that  is,  the 
thick  root  immediately 
below  the  branches. 

Budding  Standard 
Briars. — These  are  bud- 
ded in  the  best  lateral 
growths,  but  close  up  to 
the  upright  stem  two 
or  more  kinds  may  be 
budded  on  one  standard, 
but  they  should  agree  in 
growth — for  instance,  La 
France  (pink)  and  Alfred 
Colomb  (red)  would  as- 
sociate well  together. 
In  the  case  of  the 
standards  remove  the 
raffia  after  the  fourth 
week  and  retie  again  loosely,  but  do  not  cut  away  any  of  the  growths 
until  February.  When  the  buds  start  out  (as  they  often  will  and 
blossom),  leave  them  until  autumn,  and  then  cut  back  to  one  eye. 
Retain  the  raffia  on  dwarf  stocks  ;  the  soil  will  rot  it  off  before  February. 

Propagating  by  Cuttings.— There  are  many  different  ways  of  striking 
Roses  from  cuttings,  but  the  best  one  for  the  beginner  is  as  follows  : 
Early  in  September  a  piece  of  ground  in  a  sheltered  part  of  the  garden, 
but  not  necessarily  under  a  north  hedge,  should  be  deeply  dug,  or,  better 
still,  trenched.  When  gritty  material,  sand,  burnt  garden  refuse,  &c., 
is  at  hand  intermix  this  with  the  soil,  unless  the  latter  is  sandy.  Whilst 
this  soil  is  settling  down  make  the  cuttings  from  growths  that  bore  the 
first  or  summer  flowers.  Where  possible  they  should  have  a  heel,  i.e.  a 
piece  of  the  old  stem  attached. 

The  cutting  may  be  of  any  length,  but  5  to  6  inches  is  about  right. 
Smooth  over  the  heel  with  a  sharp  knife,  remove  all  foliage  save  the 
topmost  leaf-stalk,  but  do  not  cut  away  any  eyes  or  buds  (see  illustra- 
tions). The  cutting  is  now  ready  for  planting.  Where  a  heel  cannot 
be  secured,  cut  the  end  just  below  an  eye  or  leaf-bud.  The  wood 
must  be  quite  hard.  As  the  different  kinds  are  made,  tie  into  bundles, 
and  lay  them  in  boxes  of  moist  sand  or  soil,  and  keep  them  in  a 


FIG.  9. — Budding  Roses. 


78  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

shed.  When  all  are  made  they  should  be  planted.  Take  out  a  trench 
of  the  prepared  bed  one  foot  wide,  and  the  depth  of  a  spade.  Cut  down 
a  wall  of  soil  as  perpendicular  as  possible.  At  the  bottom  of  this  wall  of 
soil  put  an  inch  of  sand  or  old  cocoanut  fibre,  then  stand  the  end  of  the 
cutting  on  the  sand,  and  lean  them  against  the  wall  of  soil,  the  cuttings 
being  about  i£  inches  apart  or  more,  if  there  be  plenty  of  room  (see 
illustrations).  Many  prefer  to  dibble  the  cuttings  in  with  a  dibbler,  which 
is  often  disastrous,  as  the  cuttings  hang,  i.e.  do  not  touch  the  bottom  of 
the  hole.  It  is  much  better  to  dig  the  ground  as  advised.  When  the  row 
is  completed,  gently  place  half  the  soil  to  the  cuttings,  then  tread  firmly 
with  the  foot,  the  remainder  of  soil  being  returned  and  made  firm.  The 
cuttings  should  not  be  out  of  the  ground  more  than  an  inch,  but  this  is  not 
material  so  long  as  they  are  in  the  ground  to  a  depth  of  5  inches.  When 
the  row  is  completed,  more  ground  is  dug,  and  another  row  commenced 
about  12  inches  from  the  first.  After  a  hard  frost  the  cuttings  are  often 
by  its  action  raised  out  of  the  ground  and  left  hanging.  As  soon  as  frost 
has  gone,  go  over  the  cuttings,  and  push  them  down.  It  may  be  neces- 
sary to  do  this  two  or  three  times,  but  if  neglected  for  long,  success  cannot 
be  expected.  Subsequent  treatment  consists  in  keeping  the  surface  soil 
loose  for  about  2  inches,  and  in  the  following  spring  twelvemonths, 
that  is  about  eighteen  months  after  planting,  the  cuttings  should  be 
transplanted  to  their  permanent  position.  When  doing  this,  place  a 
little  very  fine  soil  near  the  roots,  which  are  so  fine  that  in  heavy  soil 
they  do  not  start  properly.  The  majority  of  Roses  will  strike  readily 
from  cuttings,  but  will  not  all  be  in  fit  condition  at  one  time.  Do  not 
attempt  to  strike  any  from  the  first  lot  of  plants,  for  the  wood  you  would 
use  is  of  great  value  the  second  season  for  flowers.  Plants  three  years 
old  will  provide  plenty  of  useful  cuttings.  There  are  other  ways  of 
making  Rose  cuttings,  the  next  best  to  the  above  being  from  the  growths 
of  pot-grown  plants  in  March  or  April.  If  a  variety  is  scarce,  one  eye 
or  leaf-bud  is  cut  off  and  stuck,  with  leaf  attached,  round  the  side  of  a 
3^-inch  pot  of  sandy  soil.  A  cutting  with  two  eyes  and  both  leaves 
attached,  however,  is  preferable,  but  remove  the  end  leaflet,  and  plunge 
the  pot  in  cocoanut  fibre  in  a  cucumber  or  melon  frame.  Place  a  small 
bell  glass  over  the  pot  of  cuttings,  and  freely  sprinkle  the  foliage.  It  is 
most  important  to  well  preserve  the  foliage,  and,  of  course,  when  inserted 
the  cutting  should  be  clean  and  free  from  insect  pests. 

Protecting  Rose  Blooms. — Even  the  beginner,  if  he  grows  a  fine  Rose, 
wishes  it  to  last  as  long  as  possible,  and  develop  to  its  utmost  beauty. 
With  some  of  the  Tea  and  light-coloured  Roses,  shading  of  the  flowers 
is  necessary.  Zulu  straw  hats  fastened  on  sticks  are  as  good  as  anything, 
or  a  frame  of  wire  can  be  made  cheaply  to  support  a  piece  of  calico. 
Even  a  flat  piece  of  board  tacked  on  a  stake  will  keep  a  flower  clean, 
and  not  exclude  the  air.  High-coloured  Roses  should  not  be  shaded. 

Treatment  after  First  Flowering.— Go  over  the  plants  that  are 
autumn  flowering,  remove  any  crowded  growths,  and  those  that  have 
flowered,  unless  the  flower  has  been  cut  with  a  fairly  long  stalk,  should 
be  cut  back  a  few  inches  to  a  dormant  leaf-bud  looking  outward.  A 


ROSE  SHOOTS  OF  DIFFERENT  TYPES  PREPARED 
AS  CUTTINGS. 


HOW    TO   PLANT  ROSE   CUTTINGS   IN   A 
SANDED    TRENCH. 


I  • 


ROSES  79 

better  second  growth  is  secured,  and  it  does  no  harm  to  next  season's 
blossoming.  It  is  a  great  strain  upon  a  plant  to  allow  it  to  seed.  As 
the  flowers  die  off,  cut  back  the  growth  at  once,  instead  of  allowing  the 
seed-pods  that  appear  at  the  base  of  the  flower  to  develop.  The  plants 
should  also  have  some  liquid  manure  about  once  a  week. 

Pests,  Insect  and  otherwise.—  Caterpillars  and  green-fly  are  the 
worst  insect  pests.  There  is  nothing  better  than  hand-picking  for  the 
former.  When  two  leaves  are  stuck  together,  or  rolled  up,  a  fat  maggot 
will  be  found.  Pinch  the  leaf,  and  this  will  settle  the  marauder.  Con- 
stant watching  is  necessary.  Do  not  let  two  days  go  by  without  looking 
over  all  the  plants.  Many  a  flower  is  injured  through  neglect  of  this 
precaution.  When  pruning  is  carried  out  as  directed,  and  the  plants 
relieved  of  much  old  wood,  the  eggs  of  these  caterpillars  will  depart 
also.  Green-fly  will  not  trouble  those  who  keep  their  Roses  thoroughly 
healthy.  Good  syringings  with  cold  water  dislodge  many,  and  it  is  a 

food  plan  to  dip  the  ends  of  the  young  shoot  when  covered  with  green- 
y  into  a  vessel  of  strong  tobacco  water  or  quassia  chips  solution. 

A  good  recipe  for  quassia  chips  solution  is  as  follows  :  Take  four 
ounces  of  quassia  chips,  steep  them  in  water  for  a  few  hours,  then 
simmer  from  twelve  to  twenty-four  hours  in  a  gallon  of  water,  and  add 
three  ounces  of  good  soft  soap.  When  dissolved,  add  water  to  make  up 
two  and  a  half  gallons.  Green-fly  upon  Roses  under  glass  can  be  readily 
exterminated  by  fumigating.  M'DougalPs  tobacco  sheets  are  the  simplest 
remedy.  One  or  more,  according  to  cubic  measurement,  are  hung  in  the 
house,  and  set  alight.  They  gradually  consume,  and  not  a  fly  will  be 
found  the  next  day.  Richards'  XL  All  is  too  well  known  to  need  de- 
scription ;  it  is  an  excellent  fumigant. 

Red  spider  is  often  very  prevalent  on  Roses  under  glass.  Want  of 
syringing  and  too  dry  an  atmosphere  cause  it.  The  leaves  turn  yellow 
and  drop  off.  With  a  magnifying  glass  the  pests  may  be  seen  running 
about  on  the  under  side  of  the  leaf.  The  same  fumigation  will  check 
them,  but  syringing  well  the  under  side  of  the  leaves  is  the  best  remedy. 
Mildew  is  a  troublesome  fungus.  It  inflicts  considerable  injury  by 
choking  the  breathing  pores  of  the  foliage,  and  consequently  growth  is 
hindered  (see  illustration).  When  a  plant  is  badly  attacked,  the  latter  has 
the  appearance  of  being  dusted  with  flour.  It  makes  its  appearance  under 
the  leaf  as  well  as  on  the  surface.  A  thoroughly  good  dredging  with 
black  sulphur,  underneath  as  well  as  on  the  surface  of  the  leaf,  will  check 
its  ravages.  Put  some  sulphur  in  a  piece  of  cheese-cloth  made  into  a 
bag,  and  thoroughly  dust  the  foliage  with  it.  After  remaining  on  for 
two  days,  syringe  off  and  give  another  dredging  if  needful ;  this  should 
be  done  on  a  quiet  evening,  when  the  foliage  is  slightly  damp.  It  is  a 
mistake  to  wait  until  the  plants  are  badly  attacked,  but  as  soon  as  a 
few  spots  appear,  press  them  with  the  thumb  and  finger,  previously 
dusting  or  dipping  the  thumb  and  finger  into  some  sulphur.  Mildew 
is  the  result  of  a  check  of  some  kind.  Out  of  doors  one  cannot  quite 
avoid  it,  but  never  let  anything,  if  possible,  check  the  young  roots,  such 
as  strong  liquid  manure.  Indoors  one  is  troubled  most  with  mildew. 


8o  GARDENING   FOR  BEGINNERS 

In  starting  Roses  into  growth,  do  so  gradually,  then  the  foliage  becomes 
as  it  were  hard,  and  can  stand  a  little  cold.  Give  them,  however,  very 
warm  treatment  at  the  start,  so  that  the  growth  is  tender,  and  the  first 
cold  wind,  or  too  much  air,  will  bring  about  mildew.  Cold  winds  blowing 
immediately  on  the  foliage  are  fatal.  Soot  is  a  good  remedy  for  mildew 
if  applied  carefully.  It  should  be  some  months  old,  and  must  not  remain 
on  the  foliage  more  than  two  days  at  a  time.  If  the  tiny  white  spots 
of  mildew  are  dusted  with  sulphur  when  first  observed,  the  plague  is 
checked. 

Red  Rust  or  Orange  Fungus  is  another  troublesome  fungus.  It 
forms  on  the  shoots  like  knots  of  powder,  and  is  of  a  rich  orange  colour 
(see  illustration  facing  p.  79).  Go  over  the  plants,  and  pick  off  and 
burn  the  leaves  thus  troubled.  Several  good  syringings  at  intervals  of 
a  few  days  with  Bordeaux  mixture  will  help  to  check  the  disease. 

Black  Spot, — This  fungus  has  become  very  prevalent  in  recent 
years.  It  causes  circular  brown  or  black  patches  on  the  leaves  (see 
illustration),  and  causes  them  to  drop  off.  Collect  and  burn  all  affected 
leaves,  and  spray  the  bushes  at  intervals  of  three  or  four  weeks  with 
Bordeaux  mixture,  commencing  early  in  May  and  continuing  until  the 
growth  ceases  in  autumn. 

Canker. — This  attacks  the  stems  of  Roses,  the  fungus  gaining  an 
entrance  where  there  is  a  wound.  It  causes  ugly,  open  scars  (see 
illustration),  but  first  appears  as  a  purplish  dead  area  on  the  bark.  As 
soon  as  noticed  this  dead  portion  should  be  carefully  cut  away  and 
burned.  Then  paint  the  wound  with  a  solution  of  Lysol,  2\  parts  to 
100  of  water.  There  are  other  pests,  insect  and  fungoid,  but  the  above 
are  the  chief. 


THE  TEA  AND    HYBRID   TEA   ROSES 

The  Tea  Rose  is  queen  of  the  Rose  world,  and  the  hybrid 
Tea  is  almost  as  delicate  in  colour  and  in  form.  During  recent 
years  many  beautiful  kinds  have  been  added  to  our  collections, 
and  this  raising  up  of  practically  a  new  race  has  altered  in  no 
small  degree  the  complexion  of  the  English  garden.  A  group 
of  Edith  Gilford  or  of  Viscountess  Folkestone  upon  the  lawn 
is  a  joy,  if  not  for  ever,  at  least  from  the  time  the  crimson 
shoots  appear  through  the  soil  until  the  last  flower  has  faded 
in  the  cold  dark  days  of  late  October ;  and  when  the  weather 
is  fine  in  the  autumn  and  early  winter  flowers  may,  in 
sheltered  places,  be  gathered  even  at  Christmas.  A  well- 
drained  soil  is  most  suitable,  and  always  select  a  sunny 
aspect,  although  the  plants  are  a  success  in  a  north  border, 
the  flowers  appearing  later.  Most  of  the  Tea  varieties  and 
hybrids  may  be  grown  as  bushes  budded  upon  the  seedling 
briar  or  struck  from  cuttings.  The  plants  should  be  kept 


b] 


STANDARDS    OF    ROSE    FLORENCE    PEMBERTON     WITH 
VIOLA    WHITE   SWAN. 


ROSES  8 1 

growing  by  hoeing  and  watering  freely.  Tea  Roses  and 
hybrid  teas  are  excellent  for  forcing,  providing  lovely  button- 
hole flowers  as  well  as  long-stemmed  blooms  for  table  or 
vases.  Protect  the  bushes  in  winter  by  earthing  up  the  base 
with  burnt  earth  or  ordinary  mould.  Then  put  some  fern 
from  the  wood  among  the  branches  and  they  will  be  secure 
for  the  winter.  Commence  to  cover  up  in  November  and 
keep  soil  to  the  base  until  April,  but  the  fern  should  be  re- 
moved now  and  then  during  mild  intervals.  If  flowers  of 
high  quality  are  desired  prune  hard  each  year  (in  April),  but 
if  profusion  then  merely  remove  unripe  ends  of  growths  and 
keep  the  centre  open. 

Walls  for  Tea  and  Hybrid  Tea  Roses. — Every  advantage 
should  be  taken  of  walls  and  close-boarded  fences  for  the 
beautiful  Tea  Roses.  Unless  the  walls  are  very  high  do  not 
plant  the  usual  so-called  climbing  kinds.  Varieties  known  as 
the  strongest  dwarf  growers  are  the  most  suitable.  Trench 
the  ground,  plant  in  autumn,  and  prune  very  sparingly. 
Thoroughly  soak  the  plants  at  the  roots  now  and  then  with 
water.  Twelve  excellent  sorts  for  this  purpose  are  Anna 
Olivier,  Mme.  Hoste,  Caroline  Testout,  Molly  Sharman 
Crawford,  Gustave  Regis,  The  Bride,  Billiard  et  Barre,  White 
Maman  Cochet,  Marie  Van  Houtte,  Sunburst,  Mme.  Charles, 
Mme.  Lambard,  and  Mme.  Abel  Chatenay. 

Hybrid  Perpetual  Roses. — This  famous  group  of  Roses  has 
its  origin  in  the  Damask  Perpetual  which  was  crossed  with 
the  Bourbon,  Hybrid  Chinese,  and  other  closely  allied  kinds, 
and  practically  all  the  varieties  have  been  raised  since  the 
year  1844.  The  h.-p.'s,  as  rosarians  called  this  class  for  the 
sake  of  brevity,  are  more  in  request  to  give  those  beautiful 
flowers  seen  at  the  exhibition,  perfect  specimens  of  form  and 
colour,  but  not  always  so  perfect  or  desirable  in  the  garden. 
There  is  no  question  that  the  hybrid  perpetual  is  for  the 
garden  doomed  to  partial  extinction  through  the  raising  of 
so  many  charming  hybrid  tea-scented  varieties,  brilliant 
China,  or  Monthly  Roses,  flowers  far  more  worthy  of  the 
name  perpetual  than  those  so  christened,  possessing  also 
greater  delicacy  of  colour  and  form.  But  we  hope  the  day 
is  far  distant  when  the  hybrid  perpetual  Roses,  flowers  of 
intense  colour,  deep  crimson,  pink,  rose,  and  white,  and 
many  other  shades,  and  filled  with  richest  perfume,  will 
entirely  disappear.  We  have  need  of  them. 

Standard  Roses.— When  these  are  desired  the  planter  would  do 
well  to  select  them  from  the  hybrid  perpetual  and  hybrid  tea  races, 

F 


82  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

except  a  few  from  the  climbing  Tea-scented  and  Noisette  sections  to 
vary  the  colouring.  If  well  chosen  they  are  excellent  for  bordering  the 
lawn  or  for  the  centres  of  beds. 

Climbing  Roses  under  Glass.— Climbing  Roses  succeed  best 
when  they  can  receive  plenty  of  heat  and  moisture  after  flowering  the 
first  time  to  perfect  new  wood  for  the  following  season.  The  old  wood 
is  partially  cut  away  when  the  flowers  are  gathered,  and  by  giving  heat 
and  moisture  fine  new  rods  are  produced,  which  should  be  well  ripened. 
Climbing  Roses  also  succeed  well  if  the  long  growths  produced  the  pre- 
vious summer  are  bent  down  on  a  framework  of  wire  or  wood  about  a 
foot  from  the  side  benches.  A  flower-bud,  with  of  course  a  short  stem, 
will  start  from  nearly  every  one  of  the  eyes.  After  flowering  cut  the 
shoots  back  hard  to  promote  fine  long  rods  early  in  the  year.  This  is 
only  possible  where  artificial  heat  is  available.  Unless  that  is  so  it  is 
better  to  leave  the  growths  unpruned  and  thin  them  when  they  become 
crowded  or  too  old,  merely  shortening  the  laterals  to  one  or  two  eyes. 

Mare*chal  Niel  Rose  under  Glass.— This  glorious  Rose  deserves 
a  house  to  itself,  but  this  is  seldom  possible.  It  must  be  grown  with  a 
variety  of  greenhouse  plants.  The  three  points  essential  to  success  are  : 
a  good  border ;  a  healthy  plant,  well  rooted,  and  young ;  good  annual 
growths  thoroughly  hardened. 

A  Good  Border  should  be  made  inside  the  house.  Prepare  it  as  if 
for  a  Grape  Vine.  Remove  the  old  soil  to  a  depth  of  3  feet ;  put  about 
9  inches  of  drainage  in  the  bottom,  consisting  of  clinkers,  large  stones, 
or  broken  bricks.  Then  fill  up  with  a  compost  of  three-parts  fibrous 
loam,  one-part  cow  dung,  and  a  6-inch  pot  of  bone-meal  to  each  wheel- 
barrow-load of  soil.  When  the  loam  is  obtained  fresh  from  a  meadow 
put  the  turfy  portions  with  the  grass  side  downwards.  This  work  should 
be  done  some  five  or  six  weeks  before  planting  time,  which  is  for  pre- 
ference in  October. 

A  Healthy  Plant. — The  best  stock  to  grow  Mare*chal  Niel  upon  is 
a  hedge  briar,  known  as  a  half-standard.  The  briar  may  either  be  planted 
first  and  budded  afterwards,  or  a  plant  procured  already  budded.  When 
the  latter,  see  that  it  has  an  abundance  of  fibrous  roots.  When  this  is 
the  style  selected,  prune  its  growths  back  to  within  an  inch  or  two  from 
where  it  has  been  budded.  This  can  be  accomplished  about  January  or 
February.  Do  not  give  too  much  heat  at  first.  The  slower  the  new 
growths  break  the  better,  and  as  they  grow,  train  them  horizontally. 
If  the  plant  is  put  on  one  side  near  the  centre,  one  growth  would  be 
trained  to  the  right  and  one  to  the  left.  These  would  probably  reach 
further  than  the  ends — if  so,  do  not  prevent  them.  Pinch  out  the  points 
in  September  to  help  the  shoots  to  ripen.  These  two  arms  provide,  as 
it  were,  the  limbs  for  the  base  of  future  shoots.  The  following  spring, 
retain  the  growths  of  the  same  length  as  the  house  is,  then,  as  the  new 
shoots  break  out,  the  best  are  led  up  the  roof  and  tied  to  wires.  More 
shoots  break  out  than  are  wanted ;  the  best  only  are  retained,  and,  as 
far  as  possible,  at  even  distances  apart,  say  about  one  foot.  Suppose 
the  roots  work  freely,  these  shoots  will  go  up  the  roof  on  one  side  and 


PROTECTING   STANDARD   ROSES   IN    WINTER. 


ARCHES   OF   ROSES   ON    THEIR   OWN   ROOTS. 


ROSES  83 

down  the  other.  They  must  be  stopped  in  autumn,  but  not  too  early 
or  they  will  break  out  into  growth  again.  The  object  is  to  get  them 
thoroughly  hard,  for  it  is  upon  these  that  the  flowers  appear,  and  if 
they  are  good,  strong,  hard  growths  some  noble  blossoms  will  result. 

Now  comes  the  question  of  the  rods  for  future  requirements.  After 
flowering  cut  the  canes  right  back  to  the  two  main  arms,  and  again  the 
latter  send  out  new  shoots,  which  will  require  thinning  as  before.  After 
flowering  maintain  a  good  heat,  and  freely  syringe  the  plants  before  eight 
o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  after  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon.  The 
border  must  not  be  neglected,  but  usually  one  or  two  good  waterings 
suffice,  with  an  occasional  dose  of  liquid  manure.  Before  doing  so  prod 
the  soil  with  a  fork.  This,  then,  is  the  best  plan  of  growing  Marechal 
Niel  Roses. 

But  it  may  also  be  grown  in  a  cold-house.  Here  again  we  advise 
half-standard  plants,  but  they  must  not  be  pruned  back  so  hard,  as 
artificial  heat  is  not  available.  Keep  the  growths  well  spread  out,  and 
weak  wood  thinned  out.  Remove  old  shoots  now  and  then,  and  retain 
as  much  new  wood  as  possible. 

Amateurs  would  find  this  Rose  profitable  to  grow,  especially  if 
retarded  so  that  the  plants  flowered  about  the  end  of  May  and  early 
June  when  Roses  are  scarce.  This  can  be  done  by  pruning  late  and 
keeping  ventilators  open  night  and  day.  We  have  seen  the  door  made 
in  two  sections  so  that  the  lower  half  is  kept  always  open,  thus  allowing 
a  current  of  air  to  enter  without  a  draught  being  caused. 

Preparing  a  Border  for  Roses  under  Glass.— Allusion  has  been 
already  made  to  this  work.  When  it  is  decided  to  plant  out  all  Roses 
(and  we  strongly  advise  this)  prepare  the  border  in  the  same  way,  even 
for  dwarf  growers.  Roses  glory  in  good  loam,  but  they  detest  stagna- 
tion, hence  the  need  for  drainage  either  natural  or  artificial.  An  invest- 
ment in  two  or  three  cartloads  of  loam  will  well  repay  the  grower  of  indoor 
Roses. 

Roses  in  Small  Greenhouses. — In  a  small  structure  where  other 
plants  are  grown,  Roses  should  be  in  pots  or  tubs.  If  there  are  no  cold 
draughts  the  hardier  section  can  be  cultivated.  Such  plants  as  have 
been  grown  for  twelve  months  outdoors  in  pots  are  the  best  for  the 
beginner.  The  pots  are  full  of  roots,  which  is  the  main  secret  of  success. 
Supposing  the  beginner  wishes  to  grow  a  few  pot  Roses  let  him  either 
purchase  established  plants  in  6-inch  or  8-inch  pots  or  bushes  in  October 
and  pot  them  up  himself.  Prepare  some  compost  in  September,  and 
this  should  consist  of  three-parts  loam,  one-part  well-rotted  manure, 
preferably  from  the  cowyard,  not  fresh  but  one  year  old.  Then  add  a 
little  artificial  manure  at  the  rate  of  a  6-inch  potful  to  a  wheelbarrow- 
load  of  soil.  Mix  all  well  together,  and  let  it  remain  in  a  rain-proof 
open  shed  until  required.  When  plants  are  received  in  October,  cut 
off  all  foliage,  trim  back  the  growths  to  i|  to  2  feet,  shorten  the  roots  a 
little,  and  smooth  off  jagged  ends,  and  they  are  ready  for  potting.  Keep 
them  in  the  shade  until  potted.  Prepare  some  8-inch  pots  by  washing 
them  inside  and  out,  place  about  i|  inches  of  drainage  in  bottom, 


84  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

and  a  little  well-rotted  manure  over  the  crocks.  Take  the  plant  in  left 
hand,  carefully  arrange  the  roots  to  prevent  cramping,  and  with  a  wooden 
trowel  place  some  of  the  compost  among  the  roots.  Ram  the  soil  about 
the  roots  firmly  with  a  potting  stick,  then  put  in  some  more  soil,  give 
another  ramming,  and  the  operation  is  complete  when  the  soil  reaches 
the  rim  of  the  pot.  Keep  the  tops  well  syringed,  but  do  not  water  the 
roots  for  a  day  or  two,  and  then  only  give  one  good  watering.  Plunge 
the  plants  in  some  ashes  outdoors  unless  a  cold  pit  is  available,  then 
it  is  better  they  should  be  kept  in  this,  with  the  light  off,  unless  frost 
or  heavy  rains  intervene.  Prune  the  plants  in  February,  cutting  them 
back  to  4  or  5  inches  from  the  top  of  the  pot.  Keep  lights  off  on  mild 
days,  but  put  them  on  every  night.  Neither  let  the  soil  get  quite  dry 
nor  over  water.  As  new  growths  appear  keep  the  plants  well  apart, 
and  fumigate  with  tobacco  sheets  when  green-fly  is  seen.  It  is  not 
necessary  to  keep  the  plants  in  pits,  but  it  is  advisable,  as  then  one  is 
able  to  prune  earlier  without  danger  of  new  shoots  being  injured.  Simple 
pits  may  be  made  with  turf  walls,  and  any  handy  man  can  make  a  light, 
or  the  parts  can  be  purchased  and  nailed  together.  By  May  there  will 
be  fine  flowers  on  these  plants.  Plunge  outdoors  in  full  sun  for  the 
summer,  and  in  autumn  they  may  be  introduced  to  the  greenhouse. 
Pits  with  a  southern  aspect  will  grow  Roses  quite  as  well  as  a  green- 
house ;  in  fact,  they  would  be  better  if  it  is  necessary  to  have  other 
plants  too.  Give  a  top  dressing  the  first  year,  not  repotting.  This  is 
accomplished  by  scraping  away  about  an  inch  of  the  surface  soil ;  scatter 
a  tablespoonful  of  guano  on  the  soil,  and  replace  the  soil  removed  with 
some  fresh  loam.  If  a  Marechal  Niel  or  other  climbing  Rose  is  desired 
to  grow  on  the  wall  or  roof  of  the  greenhouse,  either  plant  it  in  a  large 
pot  or  tub,  unless  a  small  border  can  be  prepared  for  it,  as  advised  under 
heading  of  "  Marechal  Niel  under  Glass  "  (p.  82).  If  in  pot  or  tub,  give 
plenty  of  drainage,  and  raise  it  upon  two  or  three  bricks,  so  that  water 
can  pass  away  freely  and  also  air  enter  the  soil. 

Climbing  plants  known  as  "  extra  sized  "  in  8-inch  pots  are  the 
best  to  secure.  For  very  small  houses  it  would  pay  the  grower  to  renew 
the  plants  annually,  for  the  nurseryman  has  better  facilities  of  growing 
this  class  of  Rose  correctly.  When  purchased  no  pruning  is  necessary, 
save  the  extreme  ends  of  the  growths,  for  the  stems  should  be  well 
ripened  and  in  condition  to  produce  a  number  of  fine  flowers  the  follow- 
ing spring.  Unless  these  climbing  Roses,  especially  Marechal  Niel,  can 
be  made  to  yield  new  and  strong  annual  growths  they  soon  deteriorate, 
hence  the  advice  to  purchase  annually,  for  they  can  be  secured  for  two 
or  three  shillings,  and  the  flowers  they  yield  would  realise  more  than 
this  at  wholesale  prices. 

Potting  Roses.—  Roses  forced  in  strong  heat  should  be  repotted  in 
July,  and  those  grown  in  cool  house  in  September.  The  pots  and  crocks 
should  be  clean  and  pot  firm ;  the  soil  must  not  be  too  wet  or  too  dry. 
Give  ample  drainage,  and  do  not  sift  the  soil,  as  Roses  like  the  little 
lumps  of  loam.  The  best  compost  consists  of  three-parts  loam,  that 
which  has  been  stacked  twelve  months,  if  one  can  obtain  it ;  one-part 


ROSE  BLUSH  RAMBLER   GROWN   AS   A    PILLAR. 


ROSES  85 

one-year-old  cow  manure  ;  and  a  6-inch  potful  of  bone-meal  to  a  barrow- 
ful  of  the  prepared  soil.  When  about  to  pot,  turn  out  the  plant,  lay 
the  ball  on  its  side,  and  remove  the  crocks.  Then  with  a  pointed 
stick  gently  prise  up  the  surface  of  the  ball.  This  releases  the  roots, 
and  some  of  the  soil  at  the  same  time.  Then  take  the  mass  in  both 
hands,  and  shake  gently.  Place  it  carefully  in  the  centre  of  the  pot, 
and  fill  up  with  compost,  ramming  this  hard  in.  The  pots  must  not 
be  filled  too  full,  merely  to  the  rim.  Place  the  plants  on  a  bed  of  ashes 
when  potted,  and  keep  them  here  until  wanted,  unless  frosts  or  heavy 
rains  intervene. 

Pillar  Roses. — For  many  varieties  of  Roses  the  columnar,  or  pillar 
form,  is  the  most  natural  as  well  as  the  most  attractive.  A  pillar,  say 
of  Crimson  Rambler,  well  isolated  upon  the  lawn,  its  fine  growths  darting 
out  here  and  there  to  relieve  the  pillar  of  formality,  is,  when  aglow  with 
its  crimson  panicles  of  blossom,  a  gorgeous  picture.  By  selecting  the 
freest  growers,  and  placing  the  pillars  some  12  to  20  feet  apart,  and  con- 
necting each  by  chains  hung  loosely,  a  pretty  effect  is  produced  when 
the  growths  are  sufficiently  developed  to  clothe  the  chains  with  blossom. 
For  this  purpose,  what  are  known  as  running  Roses,  are  only  suitable. 
Here  the  new  Wichuraiana  tribe  will  prove  useful.  Old  kinds,  such  as 
Flora,  Aimee  Vibert,  the  Garland,  Dundee  Rambler,  Ruga,  &c.,  are  also 
good.  For  pillar  Roses,  four-pronged  iron  stakes  should  be  used,  if 
possible,  unless  some  stout  larch  poles  are  available.  As  Roses  of  this 
kind  are  often  fixtures,  trench  the  ground  well  before  planting,  working 
in  some  good  manure  and  burnt  garden  refuse.  Place  the  pole  in  position 
before  planting  the  Rose.  Early  planting  is  advisable,  and  in  all  cases 
pillar  Roses  should  be  cut  back  rather  hard  the  first  year,  say  within 
two  feet  of  their  base,  or  even  lower  would  be  better.  The  growths  that 
result  from  this  pruning  are  then  retained  their  full  length  another 
season.  When  the  plants  become  filled  out  with  wood  or  growths,  two 
or  three  supplementary  stakes  placed  around,  as  one  would  tie  out  a 
Dahlia  plant,  prevent  overcrowding.  It  is  when  such  pillars  are  bunched 
up  that  insect  pests  become  a  great  trouble.  As  the  pillars  develop,  old 
worn-out  growths  should  be  cut  clean  out  in  early  autumn,  and  the 
healthy  one,  two,  and  three-year  shoots  only  should  be  retained,  and 
not  all  of  these  if  likely  to  crowd  too  much.  The  lateral  shoots  break- 
ing out  from  the  main  growths  may  be  cut  into  three  or  four  eyes, 
or  left  longer.  It  is  generally  from  these  laterals  that  the  best 
blossoms  are  procured.  Pillar  Roses  should  receive  liberal  doses  of 
liquid  manure. 

Creeping  Roses. — Sloping  banks  are  not  generally  suitable  for 
trees  or  shrubs,  but  by  planting  such  things  as  creeping  Roses  on  the 
top,  and  allowing  them  to  run  down  the  bank,  much  beauty  is  given  to 
the  garden.  Now  that  we  have  the  delightful  and  valuable  Rosa  wichu- 
raiana  and  its  hybrids,  one  need  not  look  further  for  suitable  kinds.  Most 
varieties  are  now  to  be  had  on  their  own  roots.  The  type  will  make 
yards  of  growth  in  a  season.  In  August  it  is  bespangled  with  delightful 
star-like  white  flowers,  and  its  small  shiny  foliage  has  a  most  refreshing 


86  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

% 

appearance.  Jersey  Beauty,  Ruby  Queen,  Evergreen  Gem,  and  Gar- 
denia are  all  worthy  sorts,  and  most  luxuriant  growers. 

Pegging-down  Roses.— This  is  a  first-rate  method  of  growing  the 
vigorous  Roses.  Plant  them  from  2  feet  6  inches  to  3  feet  apart ;  prune 
hard  the  first  year,  then  the  following  year  tie  down  the  long  growths 
parallel  to  the  ground.  Flowers  will  appear  along  the  shoots.  Later 
on  young  growths  start  up  from  the  base,  and,  if  allowed  to  grow  upright, 
will  bloom  about  a  month  later  than  the  pegged-down  shoots.  When 
the  long  shoots  appear  worn  out,  cut  them  clean  away,  and  peg  down 
young  ones  instead  ;  indeed,  it  is  advisable  to  do  this  whenever  possible 
provided  they  are  well  ripened. 

Beds  of  Roses  so  treated  make  a  fine  feature  on  a  lawn,  such  kinds 
as  W.  A.  Richardson,  Frau  Karl  Druschki,  Gustave  Regis,  and  others, 
blooming  most  profusely,  as  will  also  strong-growing  hybrid  perpetuals 
and  Bourbons. 

Roses  for  Hedges. — In  small  gardens  it  is  better  to  plant  hedges, 
where  required,  of  some  good  shrub  that  will  serve  as  a  dividing  line, 
and  give  an  abundance  of  flowers  too.  For  this  purpose  nothing  can  be 
better  than  the  Rose.  Given  good  soil,  deeply  dug,  with  a  good  dress- 
ing of  manure  when  preparing,  and  also  yearly  afterwards,  vigorous 
hedges  may  be  produced.  Plant  the  bushes  from  2  to  4  feet  apart, 
according  to  whether  a  thick  or  thin  hedge  is  wanted.  Where  a  wall 
of  Roses,  rising  some  8  feet  to  10  feet,  is  preferred,  rambling  Roses 
would  be  best.  Secure  in  the  ground  at  intervals  of  6  feet  or  8  feet 
some  good,  stout  oak  posts.  Stretch  some  wire  in  between  them,  to 
which  fasten  the  Roses.  By  bending  them  out  palmate  shape  a  pretty 
effect  is  created. 

It  is  not  possible  to  get  a  safe  shelter  with  the  help  of  only  Roses, 
but  certainly  they  may  be  used  as  a  screen.  Where  the  position  is  cold 
and  exposed,  an  outer  belt  of  Austrian  or  Corsican  Pines,  or  some  other 
good  tree,  would  be  necessary.  A  free  growth,  of  course,  is  essential. 

Preparation  of  the  Soil  is  important.  Most  soils  are  improved  by 
draining.  We  know  that  the  wild  Roses  grow  vigorously  in  country 
hedgerows  with  dykes  on  either  side.  If  the  staple  soil  is  a  heavy  clay, 
before  planting  a  hedge  put  down  some  drain-pipes  about  2  feet  6  inches 
deep.  If  a  clayey  loam,  then  about  3  feet.  The  ground  should  be 
trenched  two  spits  deep  for  the  heavy  soils,  and  bastard  trenched  for 
those  of  a  lighter  nature.  Good,  well-decayed  farmyard  manure,  to- 
gether with  burnt  garden  refuse  and  bone-meal,  all  favour  a  vigorous 
growth  in  the  hedge.  Rather  than  make  the  soil  sour  by  too  much 
raw  manure,  give  liquid  manure  liberally,  not  only  in  summer,  when 
growth  is  active,  but  also  during  winter,  when  usually  this  valuable 
liquid  runs  to  waste. 

Most  of  the  kinds  recommended  will  in  time  support  themselves ; 
but  if  a  tall  hedge  be  desired,  set  some  oak  posts  in  the  ground  at  intervals 
of  from  6  feet  to  8  feet  to  support  two  or  three  lengths  of  wires.  Gal- 
vanised wire  must  be  painted.  Give  the  plants  plenty  of  space  to  extend 
laterally,  so  as  to  secure  robust  base-growth. 


ROSES  87 

Rose  hedges  must  be  pruned  to  promote  an  abundant  flower  display. 
The  way  to  prune  will  depend  upon  the  variety.  Avoid,  of  course,  any 
trimmed-up  effect.  The  branches  should  droop  with  their  flower  burden. 
Growths  one  and  two  years  old  produce  the  finest  flowers,  and  on  some 
kinds  laterals  appear  from  three-  and  four-year-old  wood.  One  or  two 
branches  may  be  cut  out  of  each  plant  so  as  to  give  those  remaining 
more  space  for  development.  This  pruning  may  be  carried  out  in  the 
autumn  ;  it  is  a  better  time  than  the  spring. 

With  regard  to  the  stock,  secure,  if  possible,  strong  own-root  plants. 
If  this  cannot  be  managed,  then  get  them  upon  the  seedling  briar,  the 
roots  of  which  go  down  deep,  and  the  plant  is  then  better  able  to  resist 
drought. 

The  Sweet  Briar  is  of  course  the  hedge  of  hedges.  Pleasant  is  it  to 
wander  round  the  garden  in  the  clear  light  of  a  June  evening  when  the 
air  is  saturated  with  the  perfume  of  the  Sweet  Briar,  fresher  and  sweeter 
still  when  the  day  has  been  warm  and  moist.  Many  of  the  Penzance 
briars  are  almost  as  sweet,  and  are  now  largely  used  as  hedges.  Unfor- 
tunately the  flowers  are  quickly  over,  but  they  welcome  us  in  the  early 
summer,  and  in  the  autumn  we  have  in  their  place  a  harvest  of  bright 
fruits,  especially  upon  the  one  named  Amy  Robsart.  The  Penzance 
briars  are  remarkable  for  the  brilliant  colouring  and  profusion  of  their 
heps.  There  are  not  many  truly  distinct  kinds,  as  a  family  likeness 
runs  through  them  all ;  but  Anne  of  Gierstein,  or  Meg  Merrilies,  deep 
crimson  ;  Amy  Robsart,  pinky-white  ;  and  Lady  Penzance,  with  copper 
yellow  flowers  of  great  beauty,  are  the  most  useful. 

Several  single  Roses  are  of  value,  some  for  their  richly  coloured 
bark  in  winter,  others  for  their  heps.  R.  lucida,  R.  polyantha  Thunbergi, 
and  R.  rubrifolia  may  be  mentioned  as  the  most  suitable. 

The  Japanese  Roses  are,  perhaps,  apart  from  the  Sweet  Briar,  the 
most  useful  of  all  Roses  to  make  hedges  of.  The  plants  make  a  dense 
prickly  growth,  and  are  beautiful  practically  the  whole  year,  as  the 
fragrant  flowers  are  followed  by  large  crimson  fruits.  The  plants  are 
apt  to  become  bare  at  the  base,  but  not  so  if  pruned  in  the  way 
advised. 

Hedges  round  a  Lawn  or  Flower  Garden.— When  a  dwarf  hedge  is 
desired,  and  nothing  can  be  sweeter  than  Roses  round  a  tennis  court  or 
lawn,  choose  first  the  Monthly  or  China  Roses.  When  finer  individual 
flowers  are  preferred,  place  faith  in  the  Tea  and  hybrid  Tea  Roses, 
such  as  Mme.  Abel  Chatenay,  Caroline  Testout,  Viscountess  Folkstone, 
Marie  van  Houtte,  Gloire  de  Dijon,  and  Gruss  an  Teplitz,  all  Roses  that 
will  grow  between  4  feet  and  5  feet  in  height.  A  dense  hedge  may  be 
formed  with  the  early-flowering  Scotch  Roses  and  the  single  kinds  of 
the  same  race. 

Selection  of  Roses. — As  complete  selections  of  Roses  as  possible 
are  given  in  the  tables  on  p.  574,  bearing  in  mind  the  readers  for  whom 
this  work  is  chiefly  written.  It  is  therefore  needless  to  repeat  them  in 
this  chapter. 


88  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

China  Roses. — Although  the  China  or  Monthly  Rose  has 
many  delightful  attributes,  it  is  by  no  means  present  in  every 
garden ;  indeed,  one  may  go  through  many  and  never  see 
it  at  all.  Some  one  who  truly  loves  good  garden  plants 
says  :  "  If  I  had  only  one  square  yard  of  garden  it  should 
have  a  bush  of  Rosemary,  but  if  I  had  a  yard  and  a  half  it 
should  have  a  Rosemary  and  a  China  Rose."  It  is,  indeed, 
a  delightful  flower  this  common  old  kind,  with  its  loose 
clusters  of  cool  pink  bloom,  sometimes  cup-shaped  and 
sometimes  flattened  from  the  slight  reflexing  of  the  fully 
expanded  petals,  always  dainty  and  pleasantly  fresh-looking, 
and  with  a  faint  and  tender  scent  whose  quality  exactly 
matches  its  modestly  charming  individuality.  There  are 
garden  varieties  of  deeper  colour,  but  these  seem  rather  to 
lose  the  distinctive  grace  of  the  type  ;  it  is  one  of  the  cases, 
of  which  others  might  easily  be  quoted,  where  any  departure 
from  the  type  gives  varieties  that  are  a  loss  rather  than  a  gain 
to  beauty. 

If  proof  were  needed  of  the  merit  of  this  good  plant  it 
might  be  found  in  the  many  ways  in  which  it  can  be  used. 
A  hedge  of  China  Rose  is  always  pretty,  and  there  is  a  certain 
class  of  greyish  foliage  with  which  it  enters  into  most  satis- 
factory combination.  The  cool  dusky  foliage  of  Rosemary  is 
the  best  of  grounds  for  the  clear  pink  flowers,  and  the  grey  of 
Lavender  is  equally  pleasing.  Old  Lavender  bushes  that  are 
somewhat  overgrown,  and  whose  branches  fall  about,  leaving 
dark  empty  spaces  in  the  heart  of  the  bush,  seem  to  invite  the 
companionship  of  these  pretty  pink  Roses,  whose  flowering 
branches  can  be  led  into  the  empty  spaces.  Even  if  it  be 
desired  to  do  away  with  the  old  Lavender,  whose  lifetime  is 
shorter  than  that  of  the  Rose,  and  to  plant  them  afresh,  that 
is  only  an  opportunity  for  cutting  the  Roses  down  and  letting 
them  grow  up  anew  in  company  with  the  young  Lavender. 

But  it  is  not  with  grey-leaved  shrubs  alone  that  China 
Roses  should  be  planted.  Their  fullest  season  is  towards  the 
end  of  June,  but  even  as  late  as  October  they  are  fairly  full  of 
flower.  The  flowering  bush  Ivies  are  then  in  bloom,  and  on 
sunny  days  attracting  a  busy  humming  crowd  of  insect  life. 
Here  again  the  pretty  pink  of  the  Rose  bloom  is  charming, 
with  the  yellow  green  of  the  Ivy  clusters,  and  as  the  Ivy 
bushes  grow  to  their  full  height  of  5  feet  or  6  feet  the  Rose 
shoots  up  in  friendly  companionship,  and  thrusts  long  flower- 
crowned  stems  through  the  mass. 

With  the  Anemone  japonica  it  also  groups  well,  or  with 
hardy  Ferns,  and  makes  good  autumn  garden  pictures.  No 


ROSES  89 

Rose  is  more  accommodating,  for  it  will  bloom  either  in  sun 
or  shade. 

Of  late  years  the  China  Rose  has  been  wisely  used  by 
hybridists,  whose  labours  have  given  us  charming  Roses  that 
inherit  the  long-blooming  qualities  of  the  parent. 

Green  Centres  in  Roses.— Beginners  are  often  perplexed  as  to 
why  their  Roses  should  come  with  green  centres.  The  most  common 
cause  of  this  troublesome  occurrence  is  spring  frosts.  At  pruning  time, 
especially  when  the  season  is  early,  one  is  tempted  to  leave  young 
promising  growths,  but  unfortunately  the  frost  comes  and  so  injures 
the  embryo  buds  that  these  green  centres  are  the  result.  Another 
cause  is  over-feeding  with  chemical  manures.  The  remedy  in  both  cases 
is  obvious. 


WORK   MONTH   BY   MONTH 

The  Rose  is  a  flower  so  popular  and  beautiful  that  the  work  required 
amongst  the  plants  month  by  month  will  prove  helpful  to  the  beginner. 

JANUARY. — On  established  Rose-beds  strong  liquid  manure  may 
be  poured.  Standard  briars  may  still  be  planted  if  weather  is  mild. 
Indoors,  the  borders  or  large  tubs  of  permanent  Roses  should  receive 
a  top  dressing.  Remove  2  or  3  inches  of  the  old  soil,  scatter  on  some 
good  artificial  manure,  then  replace  soil  removed  with  fibrous  loam  and 
well-rotted  manure  in  equal  parts.  If  borders  are  dry,  give  a  good 
watering  first. 

FEBRUARY. — If  farmyard  manure  be  applied  to  the  beds  this  should 
now  be  dug  in.  Do  not  dig  very  deeply,  just  enough  to  bury  the  dung. 
The  surface  of  the  Rose-beds  should  also  be  loose.  This  is  not  a  hard 
matter  to  secure  if  the  hoe  be  diligently  used.  Planting  may  still  be 
done  if  mild  and  dwarf  stocks  for  budding  should  now  be  set  out.  The 
stocks  are  better  heeled  in  if  frosty,  for  the  frost  only  draws  them  out  of 
the  soil  and  practically  kills  them.  So  when  cold  weather  threatens 
wait  for  milder  days.  Give  the  beds  of  established  Roses  a  dressing  of 
manure ;  keep  the  surface  soil  loose  so  that  rains  will  wash  down  the 
nutriment.  If  the  appearance  of  manure  is  objected  to  cover  it  with 
soil.  Artificial  manures  are  a  great  aid  in  developing  good  blooms. 
The  cheapest  and  one  of  the  best  for  this  purpose  is  basic  slag,  which 
should  be  applied  early  in  winter  at  the  rate  of  4  to  8  ounces  per 
square  yard. 

Cuttings  inserted  in  autumn  will  require  pushing  down,  as  the  frost 
usually  raises  them,  and  unless  their  ends  rest  on  the  soil  failures  will 
occur.  Hoe  the  cutting  beds  when  necessary.  Pruning  should  be  done 
now  to  plants  upon  walls ;  this  will  merely  consist  in  tipping  the  ends 
of  shoots,  for  the  thinning  should  have  been  done  in  autumn.  Release 
the  growths  from  the  wall  to  retard  them  as  much  as  possible.  If  they 
break  too  early  much  disappointment  occurs  through  injury  by  spring 


90  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

frosts.  Hardy  Roses,  such  as  Mosses,  Gallicas,  &c.,  may  now  be  pruned. 
Budded  stocks  should  now  be  cut  back  as  far  as  the  inserted  bud.  After 
this  cutting  back,  the  soil  is  then  dug  thinly  and  laid  up  as  rough  as 
possible  to  sweeten.  Any  old  bush  Roses  one  does  not  care  for,  if  cut 
down  to  the  ground,  may  be  rebudded  in  July  with  good  kinds.  Where 
one  desires  to  layer  some  Roses,  hard  pruning  should  be  done  now. 
Give  new  stakes  to  standard  and  pillar  Roses  before  March  winds 
arise. 

Roses  under  glass  will  require  much  attention.  Keep  the  soil  rather 
dry  until  new  growths  are  about  one  inch  in  length,  then  give  plants  a 
good  watering  with  tepid  water.  It  is  best  to  repeat  the  watering  the 
next  day  in  order  to  thoroughly  soak  through  the  ball  of  earth.  Put 
the  plants  upon  inverted  flower-pots  on  two  bricks.  Fumigate  whether 
fly  is  seen  or  not.  The  Rose  house  should  receive  a  dressing  of  lime- 
wash  upon  any  brick-work  inside.  Paint  the  hot-water  pipes  with  black 
sulphur.  If  some  skim  milk  is  mixed  with  the  sulphur  the  latter  adheres 
to  the  pipes  better.  Do  not  give  side  ventilation  to  pot  Roses,  but  top 
air  on  all  suitable  occasions.  If  the  sun  is  bright  forestall  the  rapid 
rise  of  temperature  by  timely  ventilation.  Shut  the  ventilators  about 
three  o'clock.  Pot  Roses  revel  in  the  sun  heat  thus  enclosed.  Syringe 
the  plants  every  bright  morning  with  cold  water.  Endeavour  to  harden 
the  foliage  so  that  it  will  withstand  the  mildew  which  often  causes  so 
much  trouble.  Sudden  risings  or  lowerings  of  temperature  as  well  as  cold 
draughts  bring  mildew  quicker  than  anything  else.  As  soon  as  a  spot 
of  white  downy  substance  is  noticed  rub  it  with  finger  and  thumb  dipped 
in  sulphur.  If  bad  attacks  of  mildew  should  appear  syringe  the  foliage 
with  V.  2  K.  fluid,  using  a  fine  spray  syringe.  Jeyes'  Horticultural 
wash  is  also  an  excellent  remedy.  Prune  Roses  in  cold  pits. 

MARCH. — Planting  may  yet  be  done,  but,  if  dry,  water  frequently. 
The  plants  should  also  be  hard  pruned  before  planting.  Cut  newly- 
planted  Tea  Roses  back  to  3  or  4  inches  or  less.  They  are  sure  to  grow 
well  if  roots  and  growths  are  healthy.  Pruning  should  be  finished  by 
the  second  week.  In  the  north  the  third  and  fourth  week  will  do.  Prune 
all  now  except  the  Teas,  Polyanthas,  Noisettes,  and  Chinas.  After 
pruning  dig  the  land  thinly.  The  best  plan  is  to  lightly  prick  it  up  with 
a  fork.  On  no  account  dig  deeply,  for  the  feeding  roots  run  close  to  the 
surface.  If  ground  has  been  well  prepared  avoid  mulching  beds  with 
manure,  as  this  mulch  shuts  out  both  sunshine  and  air.  Mulchings  are 
only  beneficial  during  hot  days  when  plants  are  growing  fast,  and  a  good 
loose  blanket  of  earth  is  better  than  all  the  mulchings  with  manure. 
Dwarf  stocks  for  budding  should  now  be  planted.  Where  the  pegging- 
down  system  is  adopted  with  vigorous  growing  Roses,  some  of  the  ripest 
and  longest  growths  should  not  be  pruned.  Do  not,  however,  bend 
them  down  until  April. 

Indoor  plants  showing  buds  may  have  weak  liquid  manure  twice  a 
week.  A  layer  of  fresh  cow-manure  is  also  of  much  benefit  if  applied 
to  the  borders  now,  or  to  the  surface  of  the  pots.  Do  not  allow  the 
temperature  of  the  forcing-house  to  fall  below  55°  at  night.  Where 


A    FINE    WEEPING    STANDARD    OF   ROSE   DOROTHY 
PERKINS. 


ROSE  F ELICIT E  ET  PERPETUE   SURROUNDING 
A    WINDOW. 


ROSES  91 

Roses  are  grown  without  artificial  heat  by  day,  provision  should  be 
made  to  afford  a  mild  amount  during  the  night.  A  little  heat  about 
ten  o'clock  at  night  to  such  houses  will  suffice.  This  will  prevent  the 
temperature  declining  below  45°.  It  also  wards  off  injury  through  a 
stagnant  atmosphere.  No  doubt  Tea  Roses  are  best  grown  quickly,  so 
that  if  no  heat  or  very  little  be  available  it  is  wise  to  cultivate  the  hybrid 
perpetuals  and  the  freest  of  the  hybrid  Teas,  for  they  can  endure  a  lower 
temperature  than  Teas.  By  the  end  of  the  month  the  soil  around  the 
Teas  outdoors  may  be  removed,  and  also  the  litter  from  heads  of  standards 
and  bushes.  Keep  lights  on  the  Roses  in  cold  pits  every  night,  but 
remove  by  day  unless  very  cold  winds  prevail. 

APRIL. — Tea  and  hybrid  Teas,  Chinas,  and  Polyanthas,  if  planted 
late,  will  give  a  succession  of  blossom  when  the  established  plants  are 
over.  Procure  dormant  plants,  viz.  those  that  have  been  heeled  in 
under  north  hedges  or  walls.  Dip  their  roots  in  mud-soup  before  plant- 
ing, and  prune  back  hard  all  the  growths.  Tea  Roses  and  allied  tribes 
may  now  be  pruned.  Remove  earth  from  budded  stocks,  and  place  a 
stick  against  each,  in  order  to  tie  the  bud  securely  as  it  grows.  Budded 
standard  briars  should  have  a  thin  stick  tied  on  the  upper  part  of  stem 
for  a  similar  purpose.  Keep  the  hoe  frequently  used  now  among  all 
Roses.  Scatter  soot  on  land  and  hoe  it  in.  This  is  beneficial  to  Roses, 
and  wards  off  insects  and  fungoid  troubles.  Water  newly-planted  Roses. 
Climbers  under  glass  as  they  go  over  may  be  pruned.  Marechal  Niel  if 
cut  back  to  about  3  or  4  feet  from  the  base  of  the  growths  will  be  induced 
to  make  new  shoots  which  will  give  the  best  flowers  next  year. 

This  is  an  excellent  time  to  plant  out  own-root  or  cutting  Roses 
from  pots. 

MAY. — Insects  will  now  prove  troublesome.  Go  carefully  over  the 
plants  and  give  a  pinch  where  the  enemy  appears  to  be  hiding.  Dis- 
bud growths  on  the  plants.  Rub  off  the  supernumerary  shoots  in  the 
centre  of  the  plants.  Two  or  three  of  the  best  on  each  growth  will 
suffice.  Liquid  manure  may  be  given  now  about  once  a  week  if  weather 
be  dry,  but  first  apply  plain  water.  If  the  season  be  wet,  a  sprinkling 
of  artificial  manure  will  be  more  beneficial.  Sometimes  bad  frosts  occur 
this  month.  Wall  Roses  pay  for  a  mat  hung  over  them  each  night  till 
danger  is  past,  which  is  in  about  the  last  week.  Wall  Roses  also  need 
a  good  soaking  of  water  once  a  week.  Like  wall-fruits  they  often  are 
neglected  in  this  respect,  and  really  need  it  most.  Hoeing  is  an  im- 
portant operation.  A  sprinkling  of  bone-meal  is  helpful ;  keep  it  well 
hoed  in.  Suckers  must  be  cut  away  as  they  appear.  Standard  briars 
for  budding  must  have  their  shoots  thinned.  Retain  three  or  four  at 
the  top  or  lower  down  if  stronger. 

This  is  a  good  time  to  put  in  cuttings  in  a  greenhouse.  Select  shoots 
that  have  flowered.  Cut  them  in  lengths  of  4  inches  to  6  inches  or 
more,  remove  lower  leaves  and  dibble  into  very  sandy  soil,  or  all  sand 
may  be  used.  Place  a  large  cloche  or  bell-glass  over  them,  and  keep 
the  cuttings  lightly  sprinkled  each  morning.  Shade  from  midday  sun. 
Wipe  the  glass  every  morning.  In  about  five  weeks  the  cuttings  may  be 


92  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

potted  off  into  3-inch  pots.  Keep  them  in  a  close  frame  in  the  green- 
house for  a  few  days  after  potting. 

Tea  Roses  in  pots  after  flowering  should  be  rested  for  a  time  by 
partially  withholding  water.  Shorten  the  growths  a  little  to  good  plump 
eyes.  When  buds  are  again  active  give  the  plants  water  and  syringe 
now  twice  a  day.  Air  must  be  more  plentifully  afforded,  and  a  little 
let  in  at  night.  Hybrid  perpetual  Roses  after  flowering  should  be 
plunged  outdoors.  Stand  them  on  ashes  or  two  bricks  and  surround 
the  pots  with  ashes  or  soil. 

Green-fly  or  aphis  will  now  be  troublesome.  As  a  rule,  it  is  gene- 
rally upon  Roses  not  growing  freely  or  in  an  unhealthy  state.  A  good 
remedy  is  to  dip  the  shoots  covered  with  the  aphis  in  tobacco  water. 
Put  one  pound  of  tobacco  paper  into  one  gallon  of  boiling  water ;  when 
steeped  well,  add  one  gallon  of  soft  water.  Keep  a  stock  of  this,  and 
go  round  the  plants  and  drench  the  shoots  with  it. 

JUNE. — Any  gaps  in  Rose  beds  may  be  filled  up  with  plants  from 
pots.  Those  potted  in  October  are  best  for  the  purpose.  Make  a  hole 
for  them,  turn  the  plant  out  intact,  and  carefully  set  it  in,  then  fill  up 
with  soil.  Tread  carefully  around  the  ball  of  earth  so  that  it  be  not 
broken.  If  no  check  be  given,  such  plants  flower  well  from  July  till 
October.  To  old-established  Roses  in  the  best  condition,  applications 
of  night-soil  and  sewage  are  beneficial,  but  must  not  be  given  to  weakly 
plants.  Draw  a  drill  down  the  centre  of  the  row  between  two  rows  of 
plants,  pour  the  night-soil  in,  and  return  soil.  Rains  soon  carry  down 
the  food,  and  a  marked  difference  is  manifest  in  foliage  and  blossom. 
Disbudding  must  now  be  done  in  the  case  of  Roses  for  exhibition.  The 
centre  bud  is  usually  retained,  and  the  two  side  ones  removed.  Do 
this  as  early  as  possible,  even  if  you  have  to  prick  them  out  with  a  goose 
quill,  then  all  the  strength  goes  into  the  bud  retained.  With  Teas  for 
exhibition  it  is  even  necessary  to  remove  the  side  shoots  that  break  out 
before  the  bud  is  as  large  as  a  marble.  But  for  garden  decoration  the 
glorious  Teas  should  have  all  their  buds  retained.  Some  of  the  hybrids 
that  make  bunches  of  buds  are  all  the  better  thinned  even  if  only  for 
cutting  for  decoration,  otherwise  no  good  flower  will  develop.  Show 
boxes  must  be  prepared.  Nothing  helps  more  to  win  prizes  than  a  good 
style  of  arranging  the  blossoms.  Foster's  tubes  prevent  dumpiness. 
Give  liquid  manure  twice  a  week  to  such  Roses  as  have  not  received 
an  artificial  dressing.  In  watering  remember  a  good  soaking  is  better 
than  three  or  four  driblets.  Worn-out  pot  Roses,  or  plants  that  have 
become  leggy,  if  planted  out  into  good  loam,  will  enjoy  a  fresh  lease 
of  life. 

The  glorious  array  of  single  and  semi-double  Roses,  briars,  and  a 
host  of  lovely  kinds  will  now  be  in  full  bloom.  Try  and  see  a  good 
collection  growing.  More  will  be  gained  than  by  an  inspection  at  a 
flower-show. 

JULY. — As  the  perpetual  Roses  go  out  of  bloom,  cut  back  their 
growths  to  a  good  eye  looking  outward,  but  not  too  low.  If  this  is 
done  carefully  the  perpetual  character  is  more  developed.  Old  growths 


o  ti 


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A  BEAUTIFUL  ARCH  OF  ROSE  BLUSH  RAMBLER  IN  A 
WEYBRIDGE    GARDEN. 


ROSES  93 

on  Wall  Roses,  such  as  Teas,  Banksias,  &c.;  when  they  have  blossomed 
should  be  removed,  retaining  last  season's  growths,  and  those  of  the 
current  season.  Tea  Roses  in  pots  that  have  now  flowered  for  the  second 
time  must  be  removed  to  a  sunny  spot  outdoors.  Do  not  neglect  them, 
but  give  liquid  manure  now  and  then,  and  they  must  not  suffer  for 
want  of  water.  They  must  remain  here  until  the  time  comes  to  repot 
(September).  Repot  now  Roses  required  for  early  forcing  next  winter. 
Pot  off  cuttings  rooted  under  glass.  Put  in  cuttings  under  bell-glasses 
in  a  shady  spot  outdoors.  If  able  to  attend  to  them  the  cuttings  do 
remarkably  well  if  dibbled  into  small  pots,  one  cutting  in  a  pot.  Use 
very  sandy  soil.  The  frames  of  such  cuttings  may  be  placed  in  full 
sunlight,  but  paint  the  glass  with  whitewash  containing  size.  Sprinkle 
the  foliage  every  hour  when  the  sun  is  bright.  Cuttings  will  root  in 
this  manner  most  readily.  Then  remove  them  to  a  pit,  and  repot  when 
required. 

Cuttings  rooted  in  greenhouse  should  be  potted  off  when  the  roots 
are  about  an  inch  long.  Keep  in  a  close  frame  in  house  for  a  week, 
then  put  on  stage,  standing  the  pots  on  ashes.  Do  not  water  much 
at  root,  but  keep  tops  lightly  syringed  two  or  three  times  a  day.  If 
mildew  becomes  troublesome  indoors  or  out,  give  a  good  dusting  with 
black  sulphur.  Sulphide  of  potassium  sprayed  on  foliage  is  an  excellent 
preventive,  so  also  are  V.  2  K.  fluid  and  Jeyes'  Horticultural  wash. 
Spray  the  under  part  of  foliage  also.  Suckers  must  be  kept  down,  those 
from  the  root  being  removed  with  an  iron  spud. 

Budding  will  now  be  in  full  swing. 

AUGUST  is  a  quiet  month.  Mildew  is  usually  troublesome,  but  it 
cannot  well  be  avoided — one  is  at  the  mercy  of  the  weather.  The  most 
affected  shoots  may  be  cut  off.  Mildew  is  often  caused  through  want  of 
good  hoeing,  too  much  water  or  not  enough,  and  over-doses  of  liquid 
manure.  Trench  ground  well,  keep  plants  thrifty,  and  much  of  the 
evils  they  are  prone  to  will  disappear.  Soil  should  now  be  prepared  for 
potting  next  month.  If  bone-meal  is  used  (and  no  better  fertiliser  for 
Roses  can  be  found)  add  this  now  at  the  rate  of  a  5-inch  pot  to  a  barrow- 
load  of  soil.  Keep  the  compost  in  an  airy  shed  away  from  wet. 

Layering  is  best  done  this  month.  Wherever  a  growth  is  pliable 
enough  to  bend,  an  own-root  plant  may  be  secured.  Give  the  shoot  a 
twist  if  too  risky  to  cut  it ;  put  it  under  the  earth  as  explained,  using 
plenty  of  sand  about  that  part  which  is  under  the  ground.  Fine  plants 
in  about  eighteen  months  are  to  be  had  by  this  method  of  propagation. 

SEPTEMBER. — Where  possible  the  beginner  should  commence  his 
operations  this  month.  The  bed  or  border  that  he  proposes  to  plant 
with  Roses  should  be  trenched.  By  doing  this  a  month  before  planting 
the  ground  settles  down  and  is  in  better  condition  for  planting  when 
the  time  arrives. 

Cuttings  of  hardy  Roses  should  now  be  made  and  planted  at  once. 
This  would  include  some  cuttings  of  Hedge  Briars,  also  Manetti,  for 
stocks,  if  anxious  to  bud  a  few  for  one's  self.  If  Manetti  be  not  avail- 
able, cuttings  of  old-fashioned  and  Rambler  Roses  will  answer  as  well. 


94  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

Buds  that  were  inserted  in  July  should  now  be  untied  if  not  already 
done.  If  any  are  dead  it  may  not  be  too  late  to  rebud  dwarf  stocks. 

Climbers  on  walls,  arches,  or  pillars  should  be  unfastened  and  old 
and  dead  wood  cut  away.  Where  plants  have  been  neglected  this 
thinning  should  be  done  by  degrees,  not  in  one  season.  Tall  climbers, 
such  as  Gloire  de  Dijon,  are  best  unfastened  and  laid  carefully  on  the 
ground.  The  old  wood  can  be  more  easily  removed  and  the  plant  re- 
fastened  in  a  more  satisfactory  way.  Roses  that  were  grown  under  glass 
in  the  late  spring,  and  that  have  been  plunged  outdoors  for  the  summer, 
must  now  be  repotted.  Afterwards  stand  them  on  a  bed  of  ashes,  and 
syringe  morning  and  evening  for  a  week  or  two.  If  very  dry,  water  at 
the  root.  Loam  may  sometimes  be  bought  at  a  reasonable  price  where 
building  operations  are  going  on.  If  so,  do  not  fail  to  secure  a  load  or 
two.  This  is  the  stuff  to  grow  good  Roses  in,  both  in  pots  and  beds. 

OCTOBER. — Study  the  catalogues  carefully  and  give  the  order  early. 
Never  buy  cheap  Roses  because  they  are  cheap.  Go  to  a  good  house 
that  has  a  reputation  of  supplying  quality  and  true  to  name.  Remember 
many  of  the  old  Roses  are  still  the  best.  The  lists  have  been  carefully 
prepared,  so  that  the  novice  need  have  no  hesitation  as  to  his  selections. 
By  the  third  week  planting  may  commence.  Roses  may  be  planted 
from  October  to  April,  but  October  and  November  are  the  best  months. 
If  the  plants  have  much  foliage  when  received  cut  it  off.  Cover  their 
roots  with  earth  immediately  the  package  is  undone.  Never  let  the 
roots  become  exposed  to  sun  or  wind.  If  the  weather  is  dry,  water  the 
plants  before  filling  in  all  the  soil,  and  again  at  intervals  of  a  few  days. 
Replanting  of  established  Roses  may  be  begun  at  the  end  of  the  month. 
Roses  that  have  been  planted  from  six  to  ten  years  may  be  safely  trans- 
planted, and  this  often  gives  them  a  new  lease  of  life. 

NOVEMBER. — Planting  is  now  in  full  swing,  many  millions  of  Roses 
being  annually  planted  during  this  month. 

Standard  Briars  for  budding  should  also  be  planted,  other  stocks 
being  best  kept  healed  in  until  February  and  March. 

Tea  Roses  grown  as  bushes  should  be  earthed  up  like  potatoes  by  the 
end  of  the  month.  This  is  maintained  until  March.  Bracken  fern 
should  be  at  hand  ready  to  place  among  the  branches  both  of  bush  and 
standard  Teas. 

Pot  Roses  must  now  be  put  under  cover,  except  those  potted  from 
the  ground  last  month.  These  may  be  kept  outdoors  plunged  until 
January,  unless  the  weather  is  very  severe. 

DECEMBER.— Be  prepared  to  protect  Tea  Roses  if  hard  weather 
occurs.  They  are  better  for  the  free  circulation  of  air,  providing  the  frost 
is  not  severe.  During  mild  intervals  the  fern  litter  or  evergreens  should 
be  removed,  to  be  replaced  when  hard  frosts  occur  again.  Pot  Roses 
for  early  forcing  should  now  be  pruned.  With  moderate  heat,  three 
months  elapse  from  the  pruning  to  the  blossoming  of  a  pot  Rose,  so  that 
if  wanted  before  March  the  plants  should  be  pruned  in  November. 
Climbers  under  glass,  if  attended  to  in  the  summer,  will  merely  re- 
quire tying  out  now. 


ROSES  95 

Roses  over  Old  Trees.— A  delightful  way  of  growing  the  stronger 
Roses — Aimee  Vibert,  Mme.  Alfred  Carriere,  Bennett's  Seedling,  Flora, 
Paul's  Carmine  and  kindred  varieties — is  to  allow  them  free  play  in  an 
old  orchard.  Perhaps  there  may  be  dead  trees,  then  convert  them  into 
fountains  of  living  beauty  with  Roses.  The  climbing  Roses  are  more 
beautiful  when  grown  in  such  ways  than  against  a  brick  wall.  Plant 
them  well,  and  give  a  yearly  top  dressing  of  manure,  and  always  re- 
member that  climbing  Roses  need  no  pruning  in  the  general  acceptance 
of  the  word  ;  it  is  simply  necessary  to  cut  out  the  old  growths  after 
flowering  is  over  to  encourage  the  strong  new  wood.  Very  good  Roses 
for  growing  against  trees  are :  Aimee  Vibert,  Dorothy  Perkins,  Crimson 
Rambler,  The  Garland,  Felicite-et-Perpetue,  Excelsa,  Bennett's  Seedling, 
Claire  Jacquier,  Gloire  de  Dijon,  Mme.  d'Arblay,  Alberic  Barbier,  Ameri- 
can Pillar,  Blush  Rambler,  Ard's  Rover,  Reve  d'Or,  and  Paul's  Carmine 
Pillar. 


BULBOUS    FLOWERS 


HARDY  bulbous  flowers  are  a  sheet-anchor  for  the  beginner, 
who  need  merely  plant  the  bulbs  in  the  autumn,  and  await 
results.  Their  fresh  beauty  and  cheapness  should  make  them 
more  popular  than  they  are  even  in  these  days  of  general 
gardening,  and  those  with  greater  opportunities  of  painting 
beautiful  pictures  than  are  provided  by  the  mixed  border  of 
the  ordinary  flower-bed,  may  enjoy  the  Daffodils  and  other 
early  flowers  in  meadow,  in  shrubbery  margin,  and  beneath 
trees  in  the  orchard.  It  is  only  in  recent  years  that  we  have 
learnt  how  beautiful  many  of  the  hardy  flowers  are,  and 
especially  those  that  have  bulbous  roots,  when  planted  out  in 
grassy  and  other  half-wild  places.  The  nature  lessons  that 
lay  before  us  in  meadow  and  woodland  were  long  unheeded, 
and  yet  they  were  patiently  awaiting  for  just  appreciation. 
The  Fritillaries  and  Daffodils  of  our  strong-soiled  meadows, 
the  blue  Hyacinths  and  purple  Orchis  of  our  woodlands,  the 
Snowflakes  of  the  river  banks,  these  and  others  in  our  own 
land,  and  to  travellers  the  Poet's  Narcissus  of  the  Alpine 
meadow,  the  sheets  of  other  Daffodils  in  Pyrenean  moun- 
tain valleys,  the  Crocuses  and  Cyclamens  of  southern  Italy, 
and  many  other  foreign  bulb  familiar  only  in  our  gardens, 
were  all  waiting  to  teach  us  a  lesson.  All  these  good  plants, 
though  known  to  us  for  garden  use,  had  never  been  utilised 
to  the  full  of  their  ornamental  capacity  until  we  were  taught 
to  have  them  in  bold  plantings  outside  the  garden  proper,  in 
wider  spaces,  where  they  not  only  could  show  a  much  larger 
measure  of  beauty,  but  were  safe  from  the  continual  disturb- 
ance that  bulbs  must  suffer  when  grown  in  close  association 
with  other  plants. 

It  is  only  now,  since  we  have  learnt  to  plant  our  bulbs 
boldly  in  such  ways,  that  we  can  see  the  full  beauty  of  their 
effect  in  the  mass,  and  can  enjoy  the  pictorial  aspects  of  the 
flower-enriched  landscape. 

Of  all  bulbous  plants  the  Daffodils  must  rank  the  highest 
in  their  willingness  to  enliven  wood  and  meadow-land.  Not 
only  do  they  show  at  their  best  when  so  grown,  but  such 


BULBOUS  FLOWERS  97 

treatment  also  suits  them  admirably,  for  many  kinds  that  are 
tender  or  unsatisfactory  in  gardens  will  grow  willingly  in  the 
sheltering  grass  of  field  or  copse,  and  make  but  slow  and 
steady  increase,  that  seems  to  tend  to  more  healthy  repro- 
duction than  the  unnatural  stimulation  of  manured  garden 
ground. 

When  one  thinks  of  the  great  range  of  choice,  of  the 
many  kinds  of  Daffodils,  of  Snowdrops,  of  Scillas  and  their 
allies,  of  Iris  and  Dog's  Tooth  Violet,  of  the  early  winter  Aconite, 
and  the  autumn  Cyclamen,  Crocus,  and  Colchicum  ;  of  the 
strong  and  stately  Crown  Imperials  and  Tulips  of  spring,  and 
the  dainty  Acis  of  latest  autumn ;  of  Lilies,  many  of  them 
doing  best  in  the  wild  ;  when  one  thinks  of  all  these,  and 
many  others,  one  becomes  aware  that  there  is  no  lack  of 
material,  but  that  it  is  only  apathy  in  its  utilisation  that  leaves 
many  a  rough  space  in  the  garden  outskirts  bare  and  feature- 
less when  they  might  be  gladdening  us  with  smiling  pictures 
of  floral  beauty. 


SOME   PLACES  TO   PUT   BULBS 

The  following  hints  may  be  useful  to  beginners.  Some- 
times there  occurs  in  a  garden  a  low  bank  or  bed  of  hardy 
Ferns.  The  spaces  between  these  offer  excellent  places  for 
bulbs,  such  as  the  smaller  Scillas,  Chionodoxas,  and  Pusch- 
kinias.  This  is  well  worth  noting  in  preparing  a  Fern  garden 
— a  kind  of  garden  that  seems  to  have  fallen  into  disuse,  but 
is  capable  of  being  made  extremely  beautiful,  though  not  by 
planting  the  Ferns  among  heaped-up  stumps,  as  was  formerly 
so  often  done.  When  the  little  bulbs  are  blooming  the  Ferns 
are  not  yet  thinking  about  unfolding  their  fronds,  but  after 
the  bloom  is  over  and  the  foliage  has  grown  full  and  tall,  as  it 
begins  to  turn  colour  after  completing  its  life-work,  the  Fern 
fronds  are  unfurling  and  spreading  over  the  ground.  To 
avoid  the  monotony  that  might  be  felt  if  the  space  showed 
nothing  but  flowering  bulbs  and  brown  tufts  of  undeveloped 
Fern,  it  would  be  well  to  introduce  just  a  few  early-flowering 
plants  such  as  Dentaria,  Woodruff,  Virginian  Cowslip,  and 
the  pretty  feathery  Myrrhis  odorata.  Among  the  bulbs,  first 
there  are  the  splendid  blues  of  the  Chionodoxas  and  early 
Scillas,  then  there  is  a  range  of  colourings  that  must  be 
kept  apart  from  these,  and  will  do  well  amongst  themselves 
or  near  neighbours.  These  will  comprise  the  old  garden 
Dog's  Tooth  Violet  and  its  varieties,  and  an  old  cottage  garden 

G 


98  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

plant  that  is  not  showy,  but  is  full  of  a  certain  quiet  modest 
charm,  namely,  the  purple  Fumitory  (Corydalis  bulbosa). 
These  should  be  intergrouped,  as  they  form  a  quite  delightful 
colour  harmony.  Following  these,  and  keeping  within  the 
same  colouring,  will  be  the  purple  Fritillary,  and  some  of 
the  white  variety,  and  this  white  kind  will  also  be  near  a  good 
planting  of  the  beautiful  Scilla  italica  alba,  a  plant  not 
common  in  gardens.  Further  back  will  be  patches  of  the 
tall  Snowflake  (Leucojum  cestivuni)  while  its  earlier  relative 
L.  vernum  will  be  in  connection  with  the  patch,  or  rather  long 
straggle,  of  Scilla  sibirzca.  Winter  Aconites  and  Snowdrops 
are  too  early  for  this  bit  of  garden,  so  their  homes  are  else- 
where ;  and  as  the  space  is  somewhat  shaded,  possibly  neither 
the  brilliancy  of  Anemone  fulgens  nor  the  splendour  of  Iris 
reticulata  can  be  depended  on,  but  this  condition  will  make  it 
all  the  better  for  Anemone  apennina  and  the  best  of  the  Wood 
Anemones. 

The  Ferns  will  be  few  in  number  of  kinds,  and  these  will 
be  nothing  out  of  the  common — the  Male  Fern,  Lady  Fern, 
Dilated  Shield  Fern,  Hart's  Tongue,  and  Polybody,  perhaps 
these  and  no  others.  Plant  mostly  in  long  drifts  and  sink  a 
few  large  stones  in  the  earth,  partly  for  appearance'  sake 
and  partly  for  comforting  coolness  and  moisture  to  the  roots 
of  the  Ferns  ;  let  there  also  be  some  tufts  of  Iris  foetidissima, 
a  plant  whose  dark-green  sword-shaped  leaves  would  make  a 
distinct  contrast  to  the  feathery  light-green  fern-frond  masses. 

The  following  are  amongst  the  most  important  bulbs  for 
the  garden  : — 

Amaryllis  Belladonna. — This  is  the  Belladonna  Lily,  and  is  a 
beautiful  autumn  bulbous  flower  for  a  warm  border,  where  the  soil  is 
deep.  Plant  in  the  spring  or  autumn  and  give  protection  with  cocoa- 
nut  fibre  or  heather  in  severe  winter  weather  ;  the  flowers  appear  without 
the  leaves,  which  come  in  the  following  spring. 

Bulbocodium  vernum. — An  early  spring-flowering  bulb,  bearing 
rosy  purple  flowers  about  four  inches  long,  and  growing  to  a  height  of 
six  inches,  and  requires  to  be  put  about  two  inches  deep. 

The  Calochorti. — The  Californian  Tulips  or  Mariposa  Lilies  are  a 
charming  group  of  bulbs,  not  exactly  for  quite  the  beginner  with  a  very 
small  garden,  but  for  those  who  have  a  sunny  border,  as  Calochorti  revel 
in  warmth.  In  their  native  country  of  California  they  are  found  plenti- 
fully in  some  districts,  but  usually  the  various  kinds  are  found  growing 
by  themselves.  Although  the  writer  has  never  seen  the  Californian 
Tulips  growing  wild,  travellers  have  told  him  of  the  glorious  picture 
created  by  the  flowers,  sheets  of  butterflies  dangling  on  the  slender  stems, 
spotted  and  dabbed  with  colour.  The  bulbs  must  not  be  dotted  about 


rr  ^-;« 
FA,*   '•*'t'.^r>  **wh 


BELLADONNA    LILY    (AMARYLLIS   BELLADONNA) 
AT   KEW. 


BULBOUS  FLOWERS  99 

the  borders  ;  they  must  be  planted  in  masses,  and  it  is  wise  to  devote  a 
small  part  of  the  garden  to  them,  as  then  their  requirements  are  easily 
supplied.  The  dwarf -growing  species,  the  Cyclobothras  and  Star  Tulips 
are  best  in  little  corners  and  ledges  facing  south  in  the  rock-garden. 
Among  these,  C.  Purdyi,  white  and  quite  downy  from  its  covering  of 
soft  hairs,  is  the  best.  Plenty  of  sun  and  a  south  aspect  is  considered 
suitable  for  them,  but  Mr.  Wallace  of  Colchester  writes  me  :  "  I  rather 
fancy  that  shade  from  the  hot  midday  sun  in  summer  is  beneficial,  and 
a  soil  that  does  not  become  too  hot  and  dry  is  preferable.  A  little  good 
friable  loam  worked  in  with  the  light  soil  will  be  found  of  assistance, 
and  one  must  not  forget  that  good  drainage  is  also  essential.  Growing 
the  bulbs  in  a  cold  frame,  with  a  raised  light  over  them  to  admit  air  and 
throw  off  the  rain,  is  perhaps  the  simplest  and  most  effective  method  of 
cultivation.  Some  of  the  finest  flowers  I  have  ever  seen  were  in  the 
gardens  of  the  Rev.  E.  H.  Ewbank,  St.  John's,  and  Captain  Daubuz, 
Buckingham  Villa,  both  in  Ryde,  Isle  of  Wight,  some  years  ago. 
They  were  grand,  quite  three  feet  high.  Flowers  of  Pictus,  Vesta, 
Citrinus,  &c.,  two  inches  to  three  inches  across,  and  as  many  as  eighteen 
flowers  from  a  bulb;  C.  davatus  I  saw  at  Hayes  growing  in  a  border 
outside  a  greenhouse,  a  small  clump  about  three  feet  high,  and,  counting 
both  flowers  and  buds,  there  must  have  been  almost  a  hundred — it  was 
a  particularly  fine  sight.  Now  that  the  bulk  of  the  Venustus  variety 
are  so  cheap,  and  where  a  quantity  of  cut  flowers  are  required,  many 
people  want  these  extensively,  growing  them  in  frames  ;  if  cut  when  just 
opening  they  last  a  long  time  in  water.  The  following  is  a  selection  com- 
prising most  of  the  finest  and  best : — Pulchellus  and  amcenus,  Benthami, 
and  Purdyi,  of  the  dwarf -growing  kinds.  Amongst  the  true  Mariposa 
Lilies,  C.  davatus,  splendens,  Lyoni,  venustus,  citrinus,  vesta  robustus,  and 
the  Eldorada  strain  are  to  be  recommended.  I  would  advise  those  who 
have  not  at  present  attempted  the  culture  of  this  beautiful  family  to 
procure  some  of  the  above  kinds  and  make  a  start,  bearing  in  mind, 
however,  that  it  is  far  better  to  devote  a  small  corner  to  them  than  to 
have  them  scattered  throughout  the  garden.  The  best  time  for  planting 
is  from  the  middle  of  October  to  the  middle  of  November,  and  put  the 
bulbs  three  inches  deep." 

Camassia  (The  Quamash). — Handsome  North  American  plants, 
producing  flower-spikes  three  feet  in  height.  C.  esculenta,  purple,  and 
C.  Leitchlini,  white,  are  ornamental ;  the  former  is  the  Quamash.  We 
should,  however,  choose  Daffodils,  Tulips,  and  commoner  bulbs  before 
the  Camassias.  Plant  in  the  autumn,  and  if  there  is  a  meadow  or  orchard 
garden  the  Camassias  are  pretty  there. 

Chionodoxa. — Charming  plants  bearing  many-flowered  bloom-spikes 
of  deep  blue  in  early  spring.  C.  sardensis,  deep  blue,  is  the  most  striking 
in  colour,  but  C.  Lucilice,  which  bears  larger  flowers  of  a  lighter  tint,  is 
still  more  largely  grown.  C.  Alleni  and  C.  grandiflora  are  improved 
forms  of  the  latter.  The  popular  name  for  the  Chionodoxa  is  Glory  of 
the  Snow.  C.  Lucilice,  in  particular,  is  a  delightful  bulb,  quite  easily 
grown,  and  may  be  scattered  about  the  rock-garden,  in  the  border,  and 


ioo  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

is  pretty  in  pots  in  the  greenhouse.  In  some  light  soils  the  Glory  of  the 
Snow  increases  rapidly.  We  enjoy  the  fresh  blue  and  white  flowers  of 
this  plant.  C.  grandiflora,  or  gigantea,  as  it  is  also  called,  has  larger 
flowers  of  a  more  self  shade.  Plant  in  the  autumn,  and  put  the  bulbs 
two  inches  deep  in  any  good  soil. 

Colchicum  (Meadow  Saffron  or  Autumn  Crocus). — This  is  a  charm- 
ing family.  The  best  known  is  C.  autumnale,  which  produces  its  rosy- 
purple  flowers  in  September  and  October.  There  are  several  varieties, 
bearing  flowers  of  different  hues,  and  they  form  a  pretty  picture  when 
naturalised  in  the  grass  or  at  the  edge  of  a  shrubbery.  It  is  always  well 
to  plant  such  bulbs  as  these,  which  flower  late  in  the  year,  with  a  ground- 
work of  mossy  Saxifrage,  Stonecrop,  Herniaria,  or  similar  things  to  protect 
the  blooms  when  heavy  rains  dash  up  the  soil  and  sully  their  fresh  beauty. 
Plant  them  in  August,  putting  them  about  six  inches  deep  in  good  loam. 
The  double  white  variety  is  charming ;  it  is  like  a  white  rosette.  C. 
speciosum  is  a  splendid  flower ;  its  rosy-purple,  goblet-like  flower  is  on  a 
stem  or  stalk  about  a  foot  high,  and  stands  far  out  of  the  ground. 
Parkinsoni  is  easily  known  by  its  purple-chequered  flowers.  The  most 
beautiful  of  all  Colchicums  is  the  little-known  C.  Sibthorpi.  Instead 
of  C.  Sibthorpi  being  nearly  as  large  as  C.  speciosum,  as  it  is  sometimes 
said  to  be,  it  is  in  reality  a  great  deal  larger.  It  is  of  a  more  attractive 
colour  than  its  congener,  and  its  globular  shape — it  seems  to  sit  on  the 
ground  like  a  large  cup — sets  it  off  wonderfully.  Moreover,  it  is  very 
strong  and  floriferous,  and  grows  with  such  ease  that  no  particular 
rules  for  cultivation  are  required.  The  flowers  are  richer  in  colour  than 
those  of  C.  speciosum,  and  with  beautiful  crimson  reticulation.  Autumn 
Crocuses  enjoy  a  cool  soil.  To  increase  them  lift  the  bulbs  every  third 
year,  and  replant  as  soon  as  the  foliage  is  fully  matured.  Plant  in 
August. 

CrOCUS. — Besides  the  common  garden  Crocus,  golden,  purple,  white, 
and  striped,  there  are  many  other  attractive  species,  some  blooming  in 
the  autumn,  some  in  winter,  and  others  in  the  spring.  The  winter- 
flowering  kinds  will  flower  on  a  warm  border  outdoors  and  may  be  planted 
two  inches  deep.  Crocus  Imperati,  with  purple  and  buff  flowers,  is  the 
earliest  Crocus  of  the  new  year,  and  is  sometimes  in  flower  at  Xmas.  It 
is  closely  followed  by  the  beautiful  mauve-coloured  C.  Sieberi,  which  often 
opens  in  January.  There  are  so  many  Crocuses  that  it  is  impossible  to 
do  anything  like  justice  to  them  in  a  beginner's  work.  The  ordinary 
Dutch  Crocuses,  the  large  yellow,  purple,  white,  and  other  colours,  are 
the  showiest,  and  may  be  planted  as  margins  or  in  colonies  in  the  border. 
Near  large  towns  especially,  birds  are  frequently  troublesome,  so  much 
so  that  in  London  sparrows  will  peck  off  the  florets  wholesale.  A  few 
lengths  of  thick  cotton  stretched  across  the  rows  stop  the  depredators 
in  a  large  measure.  Poison  and  traps  will  thin  out  mice,  which  have  a 
strong  liking  for  Crocus  bulbs.  It  is  a  pity  that  the  beautiful  autumn- 
flowering  Crocuses  are  not  more  grown.  The  most  beautiful  is  C.  speciosus. 
Mice  are  fond  of  it.  Plant  in  the  summer,  and  put  the  bulbs  wherever 
clouds  of  purple  colouring  are  desired  in  autumn ;  sun  is  necessary  to 


BULBOUS   FLOWERS  101 

open  out  the  flowers  and  disclose  the  orange  stigmata.  The  Meadow 
Saffron  (C.  sativus)  spreads  freely  in  warm  gardens,  and  its  pale  lilac 
flowers  are  very  pretty.  C.  iridiflorus,  C.  nudifloms,  and  C.  longifloms 
are  handsome  autumn  flowers.  Put  Crocus  bulbs  about  two  inches  deep. 

Dahlias  and  their  Cultivation. — The  Dahlia  is  an  ideal  late 
summer  and  autumn  flower,  and  is  admirably  adapted  for 
town  gardens  where  many  other  flowers  will  not  thrive  owing 
to  the  smoky  atmosphere.  I  have  seen  perfect  specimens 
of  the  Cactus  type  grown  in  Clerkenwell  and  Stoke  Newing- 
ton.  In  the  former  case  they  were  grown  in  tubs  on  the  flat 
roof  of  a  house,  and  the  receptacles  used  were  the  ordinary 
margarine  or  butter  tubs,  which  were  first  thoroughly  burnt 
out  with  lighted  paper,  and  then  holes  about  the  size  of  a 
sixpence  burned  through  the  bottom  for  drainage. 

The  planting  of  Dahlias  should  be  done  about  the  end  of 
May.  The  ground  ought  to  be  well  dug  over  to  a  depth  of  about 
2  feet  and  thoroughly  broken  up,  and  a  liberal  quantity  of  old, 
well-rotted  manure  mixed  with  the  soil.  The  plants,  if  grown 
in  beds,  should  be  quite  3  feet  apart,  and  a  strong  stake 
should  be  placed  in  the  soil  at  the  time  of  planting  about 

4  inches  away  from  the  plant.     The  stake  ought  to  be  at  least 

5  feet  in  length.     Novices  often  wonder  why  such  long,  un- 
sightly stakes  are  put  in  at  the  time  of  planting  ;  but  to  the 
experienced  gardener  it  is  obvious  that  to  insert  such  a  stake 
at  a  later  period,  when  the  plant  has  grown  2  feet  to  3  feet  in 
height,  would  mean  irreparable  damage  to  the  tubers  or  roots. 
The  plants  should  be  well  watered  after  they  have  been  put 
in,  and  loosely  but  securely  tied  to  the  stake  with  raffia  or 
bast.     As  the  plant  grows,  the  tying  process  should  be  con- 
tinued, fresh  raffia  being  added  as  needed. 

Some  varieties  grow  much  taller  than  others,  and  it  is 
always  better  to  consult  a  catalogue  that  explains  the  height 
of  each  variety  before  putting  them  in  position.  When  they 
reach  about  2  feet  in  height,  two  other  stakes — the  same  length 
as  the  first — should  be  put  in  about  i  foot  from  the  plant,  the 
three  forming  a  triangle. 

Thinning  and  disbudding  in  the  case  of  the  Cactus,  deco- 
rative, and  show 'varieties  will  cause  some  anxiety  to  the 
beginner.  If  quantity  in  preference  to  quality  of  blooms  is 
required,  it  is  usual  to  leave  about  six  main  stems ;  but  if 
exhibition  blooms  are  wanted,  the  main  stems  should  be 
reduced  to  three  or  four.  Shoots  multiply  very  quickly  and 
need  taking  out  from  their  base.  No  plant  should  be  allowed 
to  become  in  the  least  degree  crowded. 


102  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

As  the  summer  advances  they  will  require  a  liberal  amount 
of  watering — on  an  average  twice  a  week  if  the  weather  is  hot 
and  dry.  Each  plant  should  be  given  not  less  than  a  gallon 
at  each  time.  Dahlias  are  very  gross  feeders,  and  almost  any 
animal  manure  is  suitable.  It  may  either  be  dissolved  in  a 
tank  loosely  or  placed  in  a  sack  and  allowed  to  escape  gradu- 
ally. The  feeding  with  manure-water  should  always  follow 
after  the  usual  watering.  Each  plant  should  be  give  about 
one  gallon.  It  is  never  necessary  to  feed  as  much  in  rainy  as 
in  dry  weather. 

As  the  blooms  begin  to  open,  a  sharp  look-out  must  be 
kept  for  earwigs  and  caterpillars.  The  best  plan  is  to  place  a 
2|-inch  pot  partly  filled  with  greasy  paper  on  the  top  of  each 
stake.  The  pots  should  be  examined  every  morning  and  the 
earwigs  and  other  insects  found  in  them  destroyed.  The  best 
time  to  catch  these  pests  is  after  dusk.  The  blooms  should 
be  carefully  looked  over  with  the  aid  of  a  lantern.  The 
Pompon  varieties  do  not  require  thinning  out,  disbudding,  or 
feeding,  and  they  do  not  grow  so  tall  as  the  other  varieties. 

Dahlias  should  never  be  planted  in  a  shady  position  or 
allowed  to  be  crowded  by  other  plants  or  shrubs. 

The  following  is  a  first-rate  dozen  of  both  the  Cactus  and 
show  sections  :  Cactus — Ajax,  orange  buff ;  Advance,  scarlet 
terra-cotta  ;  Debutante,  peach  pink,  creamy  centre  ;  Dorothy, 
silvery  pink ;  Dreadnought,  dark  crimson  maroon  ;  Glory  of 
Wilts,  pure  yellow;  H.  H.  Thomas,  scarlet  crimson;  Mrs. 
Macmillan,  pink,  with  white  centre ;  Nellie  Riding,  crimson, 
with  white  tips  ;  Rev.  T.  W.  Jamieson,  coral  pink,  with  creamy 
centre ;  Snowstorm,  pure  white ;  and  William  Marshall, 
bronzy  yellow.  Show — A.  M.  Burnie,  orange,  with  yellow 
edge  ;  Blush  Gem,  white,  tipped  with  mauve  ;  Countess,  blush 
white,  shaded  rosy  purple ;  Goldfinder,  yellow,  tipped  with 
red ;  Harry  Keith,  rosy  purple ;  J.  T.  West,  yellow,  tipped 
purple ;  Mrs.  Gladstone,  soft  blush ;  Mrs.  Langtry,  cream, 
edged  with  crimson  ;  Nugget,  orange,  tipped  scarlet ;  Sul- 
phurea,  sulphur  yellow;  Tom  Jones,  creamy  yellow,  edged 
with  rose ;  and  William  Rawlings,  crimson  purple. 

Dahlias  for  Garden  Decoration.— There  is  no  autumn  flower 
that  can  vie  with  the  Dahlia  for  brilliancy.  As  a  rule,  all 
others  appear  dull  in  comparison.  For  massing  we  have 
scarlet,  crimson,  yellow,  purple,  orange,  white,  and  pink  in 
self  colours.  These  lend  themselves  readily  to  almost  any 
garden  colour-scheme  if  only  the  right  varieties  are  grown  ; 
while  they  can  be  utilised  anywhere,  as  they  vary  in  height 
from  2  feet  to  5  feet.  Should  the  plants  be  required  to  flower 


DAHLIAS   GROUPED   FOR   EFFECT   IN  A    BED   NEAR   THE 
WATERSIDE. 


BULBOUS  FLOWERS  103 

in  July  or  very  early,  the  best  plants  for  the  purpose  are  old 
stools,  which  should  be  divided  as  small  as  possible ;  or  per- 
haps better  still,  pot  tubers,  which  are  obtainable  in  the  early 
spring  months.  These  flower  earlier  than  plants  produced 
from  cuttings,  though  the  individual  flowers  are  not  so  perfect, 
and,  generally  speaking,  the  double  forms  are  liable  to  produce 
semi-double  flowers ;  but  for  colour  effect  this  is  immaterial. 
Paeony-flowered  Dahlias  are  very  useful.  The  individual 
flowers  may  not  be  perfect  in  form,  but  as  a  mass  of  colour 
they  are  perfect.  Even  the  double  or  show  varieties  produce 
wonderful  colour  effects  when  growing  in  masses.  Where 
whole  beds  are  devoted  to  them,  only  one  variety  should  be 
grown  in  each  bed,  so  that  they  are  uniform  in  height  and 
habit.  Just  a  few  of  the  best  decorative  kinds  are  :  Kaiserin 
Augusta  Victoria,  not  the  Paeony-flowered  variety,  but  a 
pure  white  decorative  kind  that  grows  about  2  feet  to 
3  feet  high.  This  has  been  largely  used  at  Kew  and  other 
places,  and  is  always  greatly  admired  (see  illustrations).  Pure 
pink  is  not  often  seen  in  the  Dahlia,  but  we  have  it  in 
the  decorative  variety  Delice.  This  is  a  good  sturdy  grower 
that  flowers  on  stiff  stems  well  above  the  foliage.  Massed 
in  numbers  the  effect  is  perfectly  charming.  Scarlet  is 
always  admired,  especially  in  the  autumn  months.  Here 
we  have  the  Cactus  variety  Amos  Perry,  which  is  still 
unsurpassed  in  its  colour  and  habit ;  while  the  best  white 
variety  in  this  section  is  undoubtedly  White  Ensign,  for  it 
produces  its  white  blossoms  well  above  the  foliage  on  fine  stiff 
stems,  which  cannot  be  said  of  any  other  white  Cactus  I  know. 
Garden  Yellow  is  the  best  of  its  colour  in  this  section,  though 
Caradoc  runs  it  very  closely.  In  mauve  shades  Mauve  Queen 
can  be  recommended.  Perhaps  the  best  crimson  for  our 
purpose  is  Conquest.  This  is  very  rich,  with  a  splendid  habit. 
The  finest  of  the  very  dark  forms  is  still  the  old  variety  J.  H. 
Jackson.  In  bright  crimsons  Mary  Purrier  is  quite  the  best. 
In  cases  where  dwarf  colour  effects  are  desired,  the  bedding 
double  varieties  produce  splendid  masses  of  colour.  They 
rarely  exceed  2  feet  high.  Marguerite  Bruant  and  White 
Bedder  are  both  good  whites.  King  of  Dwarfs  is  a  good 
purple.  Flora  Macdonald  can  be  recommended  as  a  fine 
yellow,  while  Rising  Sun  produces  masses  of  scarlet  flowers. 
The  Paeony-flowered  varieties  have  not  been  noted  for  their 
habit,  because  the  flowers  are  so  heavy.  They  have  a  ten- 
dency to  hang  down,  but  it  is  only  a  matter  of  time  before  we 
shall  have  varieties  with  excellent  stems.  At  the  present  time 
a  few  of  the  best  sorts  are  Bayard  (red  and  yellow),  Mrs.  J.  B. 


104 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


Riding  (scarlet),  Cecilia  (yellow),  Salome  (buff  apricot),  Holman 
Hunt  (crimson),  and  Mrs.  T.  G.  Baker  (white).  The  Pompons 
and  many  of  the  single  varieties  are  equally  suitable  for 
massing,  especially  the  self-coloured  sorts,  for  most  of  them 
possess  a  fine  sturdy  habit.  Those  who  contemplate  using 
the  Dahlia  for  this  purpose  should  pay  a  visit  to  one  of  the 
nurseries  where  the  Dahlia  is  a  speciality.  They  could  then 
make  a  selection  for  the  purpose,  for  they  could  see  the  plants 


_  . 

•°v 


FIG.  io.— Preparations  for  obtaining  Dahlia  Cuttings  and  the  Mode  of  Increase 
by  Division  of  Roots. 

growing  in  quantity  and  so  obtain  the  exact  colours  they 
need. 

The  Propagation  of  Dahlias— This  is  not  a  difficult  task, 
providing  a  few  essential  points  are  observed.  If  weakened  by 
improper  treatment  while  in  their  first  stages  of  growth,  the 
plants  rarely  turn  out  well  during  the  summer  months.  The 
storing  of  the  tubers  in  the  winter  time  will  not  tax  the  resources 
of  any  establishment  if  there  is  ordinary  accommodation,  such 
as  dry  rooms,  cellars,  and  outhouses,  from  which  frost  can  be 
excluded.  All  tubers  brought  out  from  damp  cellars  or  store- 
rooms must  be  very  carefully  examined,  as  fungus  sometimes 
grows  round  the  base  of  the  old  stem,  and  it  then  kills  the 
new  bud  or  buds,  which  would,  in  a  healthy  tuber,  grow  and 
form  young  shoots  fit  for  cuttings.  I  may  here  mention  that 
the  crowns  of  all  old  tubers,  when  stored,  should  be  covered 
with  pure  sand. 


BULBOUS   FLOWERS 


105 


How  to  Procure  Healthy  Cuttings.— Old  tubers  should  be  taken, 
similar  to  the  clump  shown  in  Fig.  10,  No.  i,  and  placed  carefully  in 
rather  deep  boxes,  as  shown  in  Fig.  10,  No.  2.  The  horizontal  line  in 
Fig.  10,  No.  i  denotes  the  depth  to  bury  the  tubers  in  the  soil  in  the 
boxes.  Put  a  few  crocks  over  the  holes  in  the  bottom  of  the  boxes,  and 
use  as  a  compost  loam,  sifted,  two  parts  ;  leaf-soil,  one  part ;  and  sand, 
one  part.  A,  drainage ;  B,  tubers.  At  this  season  good  positions  for  the 
starting  of  the  new  growths  are  in  a  frame  on  a  mild  hot-bed,  on  a  stage 
in  a  warm  greenhouse,  or  on  a  high  shelf  near  the  glass  in  an  intermediate 
temperature.  If  the  first  shoots  which  appear  are  very  spindly,  remove 
them  and  wait  for  the  second  batch.  When  those  forming  the  second 


FIG.  II.— Method  of  taking  Cuttings  and  the  subsequent  Treatment. 

batch  are  rooted,  a  third  lot  will  probably  be  available,  and,  if  the  varieties 
are  scarce,  further  propagation  may  take  place. 

Division  of  Roots.— Fig.  10,  No.  3  shows  a  detached  part  of  a  cluster 
of  tubers.  The  extreme  point  is  cut  off  simply  to  admit  of  the  tuber  being 
well  placed  in  a  rather  small  flower-pot. 

How  to  Insert  Cuttings  and  Tubers.— Fig.  n,  No.  4  shows  a  young 
shoot  detached  from  the  old  tuber,  with  a  heel  portion  adhering.  Jf  the 
cultivator  wishes  to  have  more  cuttings  from  the  same  tubers,  he  must 
not  cut  with  a  heel,  but  sever  the  stem  i  inch  away  from  the  tuber. 

Prepare  the  cutting  by  severing  it  immediately  below  a  joint  and 
remove  the  two  basal  leaves,  as  denoted  by  the  three  dark  lines  drawn 
on  the  stem  and  leaf-stalks  in  Fig.  n,  No.  4.  Insert  the  cutting  with 
plenty  of  coarse  sand  round  the  stem  and  base,  as  shown  in  Fig.  n, 
No.  5.  Use  a  good  sandy  compost,  but  not  one  with  manure  in  it. 
Fig.  n,  No.  6  shows  how  the  cultivator  must  pot  a  divided  tuber. 


106  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

Treatment  of  Cuttings  in  Frames. — Guard  against  excessive 
moisture,  as  it  would  cause  the  cuttings  to  decay  at  the  soil-level. 
Admit  air  on  fine  days,  shade  from  bright  sunshine,  and  be  careful  not 
to  overwater.  Plunge  the  pots  to  their  rims  in  sifted  ashes,  soil,  or 
cocoanut  fibre. 

Hardening  and  Planting  Out. — Directly  the  cuttings  are  rooted 
they  must  be  exposed  to  more  sunshine  and  air,  this  to  be  a  gradual  process. 
A  slight  frost  would  cripple  the  plants.  Fig.  1 1,  No.  7  shows  how  a  young 
plant  must  be  put  out  in  its  flowering  quarters.  The  crocks  used  for 
drainage  should  be  removed  and  the  roots  carefully  spread  out.  Fig.  n, 
No.  8  depicts  how  an  old  cluster  of  tubers  may  be  planted,  and  Fig.  n, 
No.  9  shows  the  resultant  new  growths.  It  is  well  to  reduce  the  young 
shoots  to  two.  Old  tubers  should  be  planted  several  inches  deep  in 
well-manured,  trenched  ground  in  April.  Young  plants  from  cuttings 
must  not  be  put  out  before  the  end  of  May.  In  the  North,  June  8  will 
be  early  enough.  Surround  the  young  shoots  with  sifted  coal-ashes. 

Daffodil.    See  Narcissus,  p.  113. 

Fritillaria  (Fritillaries). — Of  these  plants  F.  imperialis  (the  Crown 
Imperial)  is  the  most  striking.  It  is  a  stately,  spring-blooming  plant, 
growing  to  a  height  of  four  feet,  and  bearing  heads  of  drooping  flowers, 
clear  yellow  and  orange-red  in  colour.  F.  Meleagris  (Snake's-head),  with 
its  purple  diapered  flowers  and  its  white  variety,  are  charming  when 
naturalised  in  moist  places  in  the  grass.  It  is  amongst  the  Fritillaries 
that  we  find  so  many  of  the  varying  tints  of  green  and  others  of  a  bluish 
glaucous  tone,  from  which  they  merge  to  purple  and  plum.  The  flowers 
are  usually  of  quiet  beauty.  Many  of  the  species  are  quite  easily  man- 
aged, not  only  in  the  border  or  in  the  rock-garden,  but  equally  so  in 
ordinary  ground  or  in  pasture.  F.  pallidiflora  is  very  distinct,  and 
certainly  one  of  the  best.  The  flowers  are  of  a  pale  yellow  tone,  and 
beautifully  chequered,  whilst  the  foliage  is  glaucous  in  colour.  The 
species  comes  from  Siberia,  and  is  therefore  quite  hardy.  Another  species 
also  in  flower  at  this  time  and  a  good  companion  is  F.  pyrenaica,  a  rather 
dark  plum-coloured  flower,  heavily  netted  with  dark  brown,  very  hardy, 
and  quite  easily  grown  in  sandy  soil.  Others  worthy  of  note  are  the 
scarlet  F.  recurva,  F.  citrina,  F.  alpina,  and  the  beautiful  F.  Whittalli. 
In  the  general  culture  of  Fritallaries  remember  to  plant  in  autumn,  and 
for  most  a  comparatively  dry  soil  is  beneficial.  The  Snake's-head, 
however,  prefers  moisture.  Seed  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  in  pans  of  sandy 
soil  will  not  result  in  flowering  plants  under  five  years.  Small  bulbous 
offsets  are  produced,  which  should  be  planted  in  a  reserve  bed  of  porous 
soil,  and  soon  make  good  specimens.  Plant  from  four  inches  to  six 
inches  deep. 

Galanthus  (Snowdrop). — The  Snowdrop,  though  grown  in  every 
condition  of  soil  and  site,  flourishes  best  in  a  moist  and  shady  situation. 
G.  plicatus  and  G.  Elwesii  are  two  fine  forms.  There  are  many  other 
Snowdrops,  but  these  are  quite  sufficient  for  a  small  garden.  The  ordi- 
nary Snowdrop,  G.  nivalis,  is  pretty  too,  and  very  effective  under  tall 
trees.  Plant  two  inches  deep  as  early  in  autumn  as  possible. 


BULBOUS   FLOWERS  107 

Galtonia  (Hyadnthus)  candicans.— This  is  a  tall,  bulbous  flower, 
with  a  stem  quite  three  feet  high.  Unlike  so  many  other  bulbs  from 
South  Africa  it  needs  no  special  care,  such  as  drying  off  and  replanting, 
but  makes  itself  quite  at  home  in  our  gardens,  preferring  rich  and  stiff 
soils.  It  is  a  plant  so  distinct  as  well  as  important  that  it  deserves  to 
be  placed  with  special  care.  Of  all  positions  the  best  would  be  as  an 
isolated  group,  only  associated  with  some  rather  important  foliage  of  a 
different  character,  such  as  that  of  the  larger  form  of  Megasea  (Saxifraga) 
cordifolia,  and  so  placed  that  it  would  be  against  a  background  of  quiet 
and  yet  dark  rich  greenery,  such  as  that  of  the  clipped  yew  hedge,  where 
its  ivory-white  bells,  suggesting  large  Snowdrops,  and  glaucous  leaves 
would  have  their  fullest  value.  Propagate  by  offsets  or  by  seed.  Four 
years  elapse  before  the  seedlings  bloom.  Sow  the  seed  as  soon  as  ripe 
in  the  open  ground.  Plant  in  the  autumn,  six  inches  deep. 

Hyacinths. — Few  bulbous  flowers  have  a  greater  hold 
upon  the  affections  of  those  who  love  sweet  fragrance  and 
bright  and  varied  colours  than  the  Hyacinth.  A  selection  of 
the  best  varieties  is  given  on  p.  316. 

Growing  the  Bulbs  in  Glasses. — We  cannot  do  better  than 
quote  the  following  from  Messrs.  Kel way's  Manual  of  Horti- 
culture. These  rules  were  recommended  in  a  lecture  given 
before  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society :  "  Set  the  bulb  in  the 
glass  so  that  the  lower  end  is  about,  but  not  quite,  in  contact 
with  the  water ;  use  rain  or  pond  water.  Do  not  change 
the  water,  but  keep  a  small  lump  of  charcoal  at  the  bottom  of 
the  glass  ;  fill  up  the  glass  with  water  as  it  shrinks  by  the 
feeding  of  the  roots  and  by  evaporation.  When  the  bulb  is 
placed,  put  the  glass  in  a  cool,  dark  cupboard,  or  in  any  place 
where  light  is  excluded,  there  to  remain  for  about  six  weeks, 
as  the  roots  feed  more  freely  in  the  dark ;  when  the  roots  are 
fully  developed  and  the  flower  spike  is  pushing  into  life  (which 
will  be  in  about  six  weeks),  remove  by  degrees  to  full  light 
and  air  ;  the  more  light  and  air  given  from  the  time  the  flowers 
show  colour,  the  shorter  will  be  the  leaves  and  spike,  and 
brighter  the  colour  of  the  flowers.  All  Hyacinths  succeed 
well  in  winter." 

Hyacinths  Outdoors.— Any  ordinary  garden  soil  is  suitable, 
if  it  is  not  too  wet.  Should  the  soil  be  heavy,  it  can  be  im- 
proved by  digging  in  some  leaf-mould,  sand,  or  road  grit. 
Plant  early  in  autumn,  and  choose  a  fine  day  when  the  surface 
is  dry.  Begin  by  lightly  trenching  the  soil,  afterwards  level- 
ling the  surface  with  a  rake.  In  dealing  with  a  round  bed  the 
first  bulb  should  be  planted  in  the  centre,  afterwards  follow- 
ing on  by  planting  in  circles  until  it  is  completed.  For 
square  beds  or  on  borders  plant  in  lines,  except  when  it  is 


io8  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

desired  to  fill  in  between  other  plants  in  a  mixed  border.  A 
trowel  should  be  used  in  preference  to  the  dibbler  for  opening 
the  holes.  These  should  be  made  4  inches  deep,  a  little 
sand  placed  in  the  bottom,  and  then  the  bulb  in  position  ; 
after  that  carefully  fill  in  the  soil.  Take  great  care  in  making 
the  holes  to  have  them  all  the  same  depth.  For  a  very  rich 
effect  plant  the  bulbs  6  inches  apart,  but  a  very  good  dis- 
play will  be  secured  if  they  are  9  inches  apart.  The  Hyacinth 
is  seldom  injured  by  frost,  except  when  growing  freely  in  the 
early  spring.  The  bulbs  may  be  taken  up  and  dried  off  when 
the  leaves  have  faded.  Place  them  in  an  airy  shed,  but  not  in 
the  sun.  When  dry  remove  the  offsets,  keeping  the  large 
sound  bulbs  to  plant  again  the  following  autumn. 

Hyacinths  in  Pots.— There  is  nothing  better  than  the 
common  flower-pot,  and  in  quite  small  pots  satisfactory 
flowers  may  be  produced  by  planting  one  bulb  in  a  pot.  Use 
a  rich  soil  consisting  of  two  parts  good  loam,  and  a  part  each 
of  manure,  leaf-mould,  and  sand.  The  best  manure  is  equal 
parts  of  cow  and  horse  manure  mixed  together.  This  should 
be  thoroughly  decayed ;  fresh  manure  is  dangerous.  It  is 
wise  to  prepare  the  soil  some  time  before  it  is  wanted  for  use. 
Mix  the  soil  thoroughly,  and  see  that  the  pots  are  perfectly 
clean  and  dry  before  using  them.  If  small  pots — viz.  3^ 
inches — are  used,  one  hollow  crock  will  suffice  as  drainage  ; 
but  if  larger  pots  are  used,  then  several  smaller  crocks  must 
be  placed  over  the  larger  one,  and  a  layer  of  moss  or  coarse 
soil  over  the  whole.  When  all  is  ready  and  a  start  is  made  to 
pot  the  bulbs,  begin  by  filling  the  pots  quite  full  of  soil, 
press  the  bulb  into  it,  and  finish  by  pressing  the  soil  mode- 
rately firm  round  the  bulb.  They  must  not  be  potted  loosely, 
or  they  will  fail ;  and  if  the  soil  is  made  too  firm,  it  is  quite 
likely  that  the  flower  spikes  will  be  mishapen  and  spoilt. 

When  several  bulbs  are  placed  in  a  large  pot,  they  may  be 
almost  covered  with  the  soil,  but  in  small  pots  they  should  be 
only  half  covered,  so  as  to  allow  the  largest  possible  amount 
of  root-room.  After  potting,  give  a  good  watering  through 
a  lt  rosed  "  watering-pot.  The  pots  may  then  be  covered  with 
6  inches  of  cocoanut  fibre  refuse  or  sand.  Coal  ashes  are 
sometimes  used  for  this  purpose,  but  they  are  not  recom- 
mended, as  they  contain  too  much  sulphur.  When  there 
is  no  convenience  for  standing  the  pots  outside,  they  may 
be  placed  in  a  dark  cellar  or  cupboard,  but  must  be  kept 
quite  cool  until  well  rooted.  When  the  roots  have  reached 
the  sides  of  the  pots,  the  first  lot  may  be  removed  to  produce 
early  flowers.  Do  not  place  them  at  once  in  full  daylight. 


BULBOUS  FLOWERS  109 

A  good  plan  is  to  place  an  inverted  pot  over  the  crown  until 
the  latter  has  become  green.  During  this  period  they  should 
be  kept  cool.  A  frame,  cool  greenhouse,  or  a  window,  is  a 
suitable  place  for  them. 

Fortunately  the  Hyacinth  is  not  difficult  to  grow,  no  matter 
whether  the  garden  to  be  planted  is  in  town  or  country ;  and, 
as  we  have  already  mentioned,  the  flowers  are  deliciously 
sweet.  The  breath  of  the  Hyacinth  in  the  greenhouse  or 
in  the  house  is  a  reminder  of  the  brighter  days  to  come, 
when  the  Daffodil  is  dancing  in  the  spring  wind  and  the 
Tulips  are  beginning  to  raise  their  buds  on  strong  stems. 
I  have  a  stronger  affection  for  the  single  varieties  than  the 
double,  but  each  group  has  its  charms.  They  are  welcome, 
too,  in  spring  decorations,  not  only  for  the  sweet  scent  of  the 
flowers,  but  for  variety  of  telling  colours.  When  the  bulbs  in 
pots  or  in  glasses  have  flowered,  allow  them  to  gradually 
ripen  until  the  leaves  are  quite  yellow.  They  are  of  no  further 
use  under  glass,  but,  planted  out  in  a  corner  of  the  garden, 
will  flower  freely  for  years ;  the  spikes  will  not  be  large,  but 
quite  as  attractive. 

The  Roman  Hyacinth  has  small  spikes  of  white  flowers. 
It  is  useful  for  pots,  as  it  flowers  earlier  than  the  large  Dutch 
or  bedding  Hyacinths.  These  bulbs  should  be  grown  in  a 
pot  6  inches  in  diameter  at  the  top.  During  recent  years 
miniature  Hyacinths  have  become  very  popular  for  growing 
in  pots  and  also  for  bedding.  They  are  small  forms  of  the 
bedding  Hyacinths,  and  need  the  same  treatment. 

Iris.— The  English  Iris  (/.  xiphioides)  and  the  Spanish  Iris  (/. 
xiphium)  are  the  best  known  of  the  bulbous  section  of  this  family.  Both 
are  handsome  plants.  The  English  Iris  bears  white,  lavender,  deep- 
blue,  purple,  maroon,  and  striped  flowers,  while  in  the  Spanish  the 
colours  are  blue,  yellow,  white,  and  striped.  The  striped  varieties  are 
far  inferior  to  the  self  colours  for  effect.  The  bronze,  purple,  and  yellow 
Thunderbolt,  belonging  to  the  Spanish  section,  is  an  interesting  flower. 
These  Irises  succeed  best  in  a  light,  well-drained  soil.  In  heavy,  retentive 
soils  they  often  perish  during  the  winter.  Plant  the  bulbs  about  four 
inches  deep.  /.  reticulata  (the  Netted  Iris),  /.  alata,  and  /.  persica  are 
three  dwarf  plants  flowering  in  the  early  spring.  It  is  well  to  have  some 
of  these  in  pots  in  a  cold  frame  quite  early  in  the  year. 

/.  reticulata  is  an  especially  sweetly  fragrant  flower.  There  is  a 
variety  named  major,  which  has  larger  flowers  than  the  type.  A  few  of 
the  deep-purple  flowers  will  scent  a  large  room.  A  well-known  gardener, 
writing  about  this  bulb,  says  :  "I  planted  them  in  large  groups  in  the 
hardy  plant  border,  which  is  well  drained  and  faces  south.  The  only 
attention  they  receive  consists  in  clearing  off  the  old  foliage  in  autumn, 


no  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

forking  up  the  top  soil,  and  adding  some  old  potting  material.  In  March 
I  counted,  on  a  clump  two  feet  across,  sixty  to  seventy  flowers,  either 
open  or  opening,  and  many  more  to  follow.  It  has  often  puzzled  me  why 
gardeners  who  need  a  lot  of  cut  flowers  do  not  grow  it,  considering  the 
quantity  of  lovely  flowers  to  be  had  from  good  plants."  Occasionally 
the  bulbs  are  attacked  by  a  fungus,  which  may  be  brought  into  the 
garden  from  stock  affected  with  it.  When  this  Iris  has  established 
itself  in  a  garden,  it  is  wise  to  ascertain  the  condition  of  any  fresh  bulbs 
introduced,  and  the  place  whence  they  came. 

Leucojum  (Snowftake). — Graceful  plants,  bearing  drooping,  white 
bells.  L.  vernum  blooms  in  the  spring  and  grows  to  a  height  of  six 
inches.  L.  astivum  flowers  later  and  often  exceeds  two  feet  in  height. 
It  is  excellent  for  naturalising  in  the  wild  garden  or  in  the  grass  by  water. 

Lilies. — Of  the  numerous  Lilies  many  will  be  found  to  flower  well  in 
ordinary  garden  soil.  The  following  form  a  good  selection  : — Bulbi- 
ferum,  two  feet,  orange-red ;  candidum  (Madonna  Lily),  get  the  best 
form  ;  chalcedonicum  (Scarlet  Turk's  Cap),  three  feet ;  Croceum,  six  feet, 
orange ;  davuricum,  two  feet,  orange-red,  black-spotted ;  excelsum  or 
testaceum,  five  feet,  buff ;  giganteum,  ten  feet,  ivory-white  ;  Henryi,  six 
feet,  orange-yellow ;  Humboldti,  five  feet,  apricot,  spotted-maroon ; 
Martagon,  three  to  five  feet,  white,  purple,  and  purple-black ;  pyrenaicum, 
three  feet,  yellow,  spotted-black,  red  anthers ;  szovitzianum,  five  feet, 
pale  yellow,  sometimes  dotted  with  minute  black  spots  ;  thunbergianum, 
eighteen  inches,  yellow  to  red,  sometimes  spotted  ;  tigrinum,  four  to  six 
feet,  orange-red,  purple-spotted.  Lilies  should  be  planted  as  soon  as 
the  flower-stems  die  down,  and  should  have  four  inches  of  soil  above  the 
bulb,  which  is  best  surrounded  by  sand.  Of  those  named  in  the  fore- 
going list,  L.  giganteum  requires  a  deep  rich  bed  in  decayed  vegetable 
matter ;  the  others  will  generally  succeed  in  good,  porous  garden  soil. 
Lilies  should  be  grown  in  a  sheltered  spot,  and  partial  shade  is  beneficial 
for  all  except  the  Madonna  Lily,  which  likes  sun.  In  peat  the  Swamp 
Lilies,  L.  canadense,  paradalinum,  and  superbum  can  be  grown.  They 
are  exceedingly  graceful  and  brightly  coloured.  Other  handsome  Lilies 
are  L.  auratum,  speciosum,  and  longiflorum,  but,  as  these  have  a  habit  of 
dying  out  after  the  first  year  or  so  in  many  gardens,  an  annual  purchase 
is  often  requisite  to  maintain  a  display.  They  should,  however,  be  tried, 
as  they  sometimes  become  established.  There  are  many  other  beautiful 
Lilies  besides  the  twenty  here  enumerated,  but  they  are  less  suited  to 
general  cultivation  than  those  already  named.  In  large  gardens  the 
bulbs  are  planted  amongst  shrubs  with  excellent  effect.  The  shrubs 
protect  the  rising  Lily  stems  in  spring  from  frost,  and  the  association  of 
the  two  is  quite  happy. 

It  will  interest  Lily  growers  to  read  the  remarks  made  by  Mr.  Wallace 
of  Colchester,  a  well-known  Lily  specialist,  in  a  paper  published  in  the 
Royal  Horticultural  Society's  Journal:  "It  is  difficult  to  lay  down 
hard  and  fast  rules  as  to  the  proper  positions  to  plant  Lilies,  as  the  same 
variety  may  be  seen  flourishing  equally  well  under  totally  different  con- 
ditions, but  I  would  recommend  intending  planters  to  avoid  positions 


THE  BUFF-COLOURED   LILY    (LI LIU M    TESTACEUM). 


BULBOUS  FLOWERS  in 

exposed  to  cold,  sweeping  winds.  Never  plant  directly  underneath  trees, 
but  if  possible  at  some  distance  away — the  trees  will  then  give  them  the 
required  shade  ;  nor  in  a  hot,  dry  corner,  or  in  a  cold,  wet,  heavy  soil,  or 
where  the  soil  is  water-logged.  If  planted  near  a  lake  or  a  large  expanse 
of  water,  the  young  growths  will  need  protection  from  late  spring  frosts. 
L.  Henryi,  auratum,  longiflorum,  speciosum,  are  specially  liable  to  injury 
from  this  cause.  In  Rhododendron  beds  and  amongst  low-growing 
shrubs  they  always  do  well,  and  in  no  position  do  they  show  up  so  effec- 
tively as  when  backed  by  the  rich  deep-green  leaves  of  the  shrubbery. 
The  beds  at  Kew  near  the  Palm  House  are  excellent  examples  of  this 
mode  of  culture.  Therefore  in  a  few  words,  and  at  the  risk  of  repeating 
myself,  the  best  positions  for  Lilies  are  those  that  afford  partial  shade, 
protection  from  spring  frosts  and  hot  midday  sun,  and  that  give  coolness 
and  moisture  at  the  root. 

"  Having  found  the  right  position  for  Lilies,  the  next  thing  is  to  see 
that  we  give  them  the  best  and  most  suitable  soil  for  their  requirements. 
One  can  generally  do  this,  even  if  an  ideal  position  is  not  to  be  found. 
The  different  soils  suitable  for  successful  cultivation  I  have  divided 
roughly  into  three  classes  : 

"  First,  any  good  garden  soil  of  a  fair  depth,  well  dug  before  plant- 
ing, is  suitable  for  such  good  growing  kinds  as  L.  Browni,  candidum,  chal- 
cedonicum,  croceum,  excelsum,  Hansoni,  Henryi,  Martagon  (purple), 
pyrenaicum,  ihunbergianum,  tigrinum,  and  umbellatum ;  these  will  all 
flourish  in  any  good  border  soil  with  fair  treatment. 

"  Secondly,  Lilies  that  prefer  a  strong  soil,  such  as  a  good,  rich,  friable 
loam,  not  too  heavy,  viz.  L.  auratum  platyphyllum,  Batemanice,  Columbi- 
anum,  Humboldti,  Humboldti  magnificum,  Martagon  album,  dalmaticum, 
pomponium  verwn,  rubescens,  speciosum,  Szovitzianum,  Washingtonianum, 
and  Wallichianum  super  bum. 

"  Thirdly,  we  come  to  those  that  require  peat  and  moisture,  viz.  Bur- 
banki,  canadense,  Grayi,  pardalinum,  Parryi,  Philadelphicum,  Roezlii 
superbum.  The  above  lists  represent,  in  my  opinion,  those  Lilies  which 
can  be  grown  with  little  trouble.  Those  in  the  first  list  will  succeed  in 
any  ordinary  border  under  conditions  inferior  to  those  already  described 
as  essential  for  perfect  cultivation.  Those  in  the  second  list  require  a 
certain  amount  of  partial  shade  and  coolness  at  the  root,  and  are  suitable 
for  planting  in  Rhododendron  beds  and  amongst  low-growing  shrubs. 
Finally,  the  third  group  comprises  those  that  require  a  cool,  shady  spot 
such  as  the  edge  of  a  pond  or  stream,  or  in  a  woodland  glade.  In  addi- 
tion to  the  species  mentioned,  there  are  a  great  number  which  are  capable 
of  successful  cultivation  with  a  little  extra  care,  varieties  which  to  an 
enthusiast  would  be  indispensable.  Having  found  the  right  position 
and  soil,  the  next  step  is  to  see  about  planting  the  bulbs,  and  at  what 
time  this  is  best  done.  On  -this  point  great  divergence  of  opinion  exists 
among  the  general  public  (I  am  not  now  speaking  of  Lily  enthusiasts). 
In  fact,  I  should  say  more  Lilies  are  planted  in  the  spring  months  than 
in  the  autumn ;  whereas  it  is  plain  to  all  those  who  look  into  the  matter 
that  autumn  is  the  best  time  to  plant  most  of  the  species.  A  Lily  when 


ii2  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

in  full  growth  is  performing  two  functions — one  developing,  by  means  of 
its  stem,  the  flowers,  and  the  other,  by  means  of  its  basal  roots,  the  bulb 
for  next  year's  growth — so  that  it  requires  as  much  attention  to  its  wants 
below  the  ground  as  above.  All  Lilies  do  not  have  similar  root  action  ; 
there  are  two  classes.  First,  those  that  make  two  sets  of  roots,  one  from 
the  base  of  the  bulb,  the  other  from  the  bottom  of  the  flower  stem. 
Second,  the  Lily  that  only  produces  roots  from  the  base  of  the  bulbs. 

"  Now  it  is  obvious  which  Lily  requires  early  planting  and  which 
Lily  can  be  planted  late  with  reasonable  hope  of  success.  Those  Lilies 
that  have  only  basal  roots  to  depend  upon  must  be  well  established  before 
they  can  flower  with  any  degree  of  success  ;  as,  unless  they  are  well 
rooted,  the  stem  has  nothing  to  draw  from  and  feed  on  except  the  bulb, 
which  naturally  suffers.  Whereas  those  that  have  two  root  actions 
may  be  planted  almost  at  any  time,  for  as  soon  as  the  stem  is  about  six 
inches  high,  roots  may  be  observed  breaking  out  in  small  rings  round 
the  base  of  it,  which  grow  with  exceeding  vigour,  and  help  and  support 
the  stem  to  produce  its  flowers  almost  independently  of  the  bulb.  I 
have  often  noticed  when  lifting  L.  auratum  that  those  bulbs  which  had 
plenty  of  basal  roots  had  new,  well-formed  bulb  growth,  whereas,  when 
it  was  absent,  the  bulb  had  flowered  by  means  of  the  stem  roots  and 
then  collapsed. 

"  Lilium  Martagon  and  its  varieties,  chalcedonieum,  Szovitzianum, 
dalmaticum,  Hwnboldti,  and  others  of  a  similar  character,  only  produce 
basal  roots.  The  root  action  commences  about  the  middle  of  October 
or  earlier,  and  continues  during  the  winter.  Therefore,  if  it  is  necessary 
to  lift  the  bulbs,  it  is  best  to  do  so  before  root  action  takes  place,  for  if 
the  bulb  be  lifted  after  root  action  has  commenced,  and  the  roots  damaged 
or  dried,  it  receives  a  serious  check,  and  will  only  produce  a  weak  growth. 

"  I  lift  my  bulbs  early,  and  keep  them  cool  and  moist  in  cocoa  fibre, 
and  plant  them  again  not  later  than  December,  when  root  action  at  once 
commences,  and  not  much  time  is  lost.  And  I  think  that  there  is  not 
much  doubt  that  the  late  planting  of  Martagon  Lilies,  and  after  root 
action  has  been  checked,  is  the  cause  of  their  partial  failure  the  first 
season.  Good,  sound,  imported  bulbs  of  Japanese  Lilies,  which  now 
arrive  in  excellent  condition  during  the  early  part  of  the  year,  may  be 
planted  as  late  as  March  and  April  with  every  confidence  as  to  the  result, 
provided  they  are  in  a  fresh  and  sound  condition  for  planting  when 
received. 

"  As  a  general  rule,  when  planting  bulbs,  they  should  be  put  in  the 
soil  about  three  times  their  own  depth  ;  the  soil  should  be  well  dug, 
and  it  is  beneficial  if  a  little  peat,  turfy  loam,  leaf  soil,  and  sea  sand  be 
added.  This  latter  (the  sea  sand)  should  be  placed  all  round  the  bulbs  : 
in  fact,  we  use  sea  sand  to  a  very  large  extent,  generally  covering  the 
bulb  entirely  with  it.  It  is  always  moist,  and  being  of  a  gritty  nature 
prevents  the  attacks  of  slugs  and  grubs,  and  also  keeps  the  soil  from 
setting  fast  round  the  bulbs. 

"  I  would  recommend,  when  planting  Lilies  amongst  Rhododendrons 
and  shrubs,  the  using  of  old  tubs  cut  in  half  with  the  bottoms  knocked 


BULBOUS   FLOWERS  113 

out.  They  can  be  sunk  in  the  beds  and  filled  with  a  good  mixture  of 
soil,  and  will  serve  to  keep  the  roots  of  the  shrubs  and  trees  from  inter- 
fering with  the  bulbs.  Lilies  planted  in  this  manner  are  generally  very 
successful." 

Mr.  Wallace  makes  a  few  remarks  about  growing  Lilies  in  pots, 
selecting  for  this  purpose  such  kinds  as  L.  auratum  and  its  varieties, 
speciosum  and  its  varieties,  longiflorum,  Hansoni,  excelsum,  umbellatum, 
candidum,  Henryi,  and  Wallichianum  superbum :  "  The  bulbs  should 
be  placed  in  pots  about  two  and  a  half  times  their  diameter  and  two 
inches  below  the  surface  of  the  soil.  Good  turfy  loam,  peat,  and  sand 
make  an  excellent  compost.  Plunge  the  pots  in  ashes  outside  under  a 
wall,  or  in  a  cold  frame  ;  and  as  soon  as  root  action  has  well  commenced, 
take  them  into  the  greenhouse  as  required.  When  the  bulbs  are  well 
rooted,  care  must  be  exercised  in  watering ;  for,  as  the  pots  are  full  of 
roots,  if  once  they  get  dry,  serious  damage  is  quickly  done.  Give  auratum 
plenty  of  shade  and  moisture ;  the  variety  platyphyllum  is  a  noble  pot 
plant,  and  very  reliable.  After  flowering  they  should  be  plunged  outside 
in  a  cool,  shady  border ;  and  when  the  foliage  has  quite  died  down,  they 
should  then  be  stored  for  the  winter  in  a  cool  frame  or  outhouse.  In 
early  spring  they  should  be  gone  over,  and  fresh  soil  added  and  renewed." 

Muscaris,  or  Grape  Hyacinths.— These  are  charming  little  plants, 
producing  heads  of  bright  blue,  beaded  bells  in  early  spring ;  they 
are  suitable  for  the  rock-garden  or  sloping  bank.  The  stronger  forms 
may  also  be  naturalised  in  the  grass.  M.  atlanticum,  M.  neglectum, 
M.  armenaicum,  M.  botryoides,  M.  paradoxum,  M.  prcecox,  and  M.  race- 
mo  sum  are  beautiful  kinds.  M.  moschatum — the  Musk  Hyacinth — is 
valuable  for  its  delicious  perfume,  while  M.  comosum  monstrosum — the 
Feather  Hyacinth — is  interesting  from  its  quaint  formation.  M.  conicum 
is  one  of  the  best  and  least  known  of  the  family.  The  rich  violet-blue 
flowers  are  produced  in  profusion,  and  their  delicate  fragrance  is  enjoy- 
able. It  may  be  used  with  advantage  to  cover  the  ground  in  shrubberies 
and  beds  where  the  plants  are  not  too  close  together.  Naturalised  in 
the  grass  it  is  quite  at  home,  multiplying  freely.  The  flowers  last  long 
in  beauty,  and  are  useful  for  cutting.  This  useful  and  easily-grown 
group  is  much  neglected  in  English  gardens,  notwithstanding  the  fact 
that  a  rough  bank  may  be  purpled  with  their  flowers  in  early  spring. 
Plant  Muscari  bulbs  two  inches  deep,  and  for  increase  separate  the  bulbs 
when  they  are  lifted. 

Narcissus  (The  Daffodil  and  Narcissus). — Narcissus  is  the 
Latin  or  botanical  name  for  the  whole  of  the  Daffodil  family, 
and  strictly  speaking  each  one  is  a  Narcissus.  In  popular 
language  it  is  usual  to  confine  the  word  to  the  poeticus 
and  the  bunch-flowered  sections,  and  to  leave  the  word 
Daffodil  to  those  varieties  which  have  a  larger  centre.  Thus 
an  Emperor  or  a  Sir  Watkin  is  spoken  of  as  a  Daffodil  and 
an  ornatus  or  recurvus  (Sweet  Nancy)  as  a  Narcissus.  No 

H 


n4  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

family  of  plants  has  been  more  improved  by  hybridisation 
in  recent  years.  Twenty-five  years  ago  only  a  few  varieties 
were  available  for  garden  decoration,  and  with  the  exception 
of  the  Tazettas  or  Polyanthus-narcissi  none  were  ever  used 
for  growing  in  pots.  Now,  thanks  to  the  pioneer  work  of  the 
late  Peter  Barr  and  the  late  William  Baylor  Hartland  in 
collecting  and  introducing  new  species,  and  the  garden 
hybrids  of  Leeds  and  Backhouse,  and  still  later  to  the  suc- 
cessful work  of  Engleheart  and  an  ever-increasing  band  of 
enthusiastic  hybridists,  the  number  of  varieties  has  been  so 
much  added  to  that  they  literally  seem  to  be  without  end,  as 
year  by  year  adds  its  quota  to  the  total  available. 

The  majority  of  these  newcomers  are  necessarily  very 
expensive,  as  there  is  no  short  cut  to  increase  a  Daffodil  like 
there  is  in  the  case  of  many  other  flowers.  It  can  only  be 
done  in  a  natural  way  by  its  offsets,  and  these  must  not  be 
separated  from  the  parent  bulb  unless  they  come  away  almost 
by  themselves,  and  are  only  joined  to  it  by  the  smallest  bit  of 
tissue  at  the  base.  It  is  tempting  to  use  forcible  means  to 
take  an  offset  away  when  the  variety  is  expensive,  in  order  to 
increase  the  stock,  but  the  practice  is  a  bad  one,  as  the  vigour 
of  the  plant  suffers,  and  a  weak  stock  is  more  often  than  not 
the  result.  This  is  a  most  important  factor  in  the  successful 
cultivation  of  the  Narcissus.  "  Never  over-divide  "  is  one  of 
the  golden  rules  in  its  management  in  the  garden. 

Another  question  upon  which  great  uncertainty  prevails  is 
the  length  of  time  a  bulb  should  be  left  in  the  ground  without 
being  lifted.  Much  depends  upon  circumstances,  but  with 
the  few  exceptions  of  some  delicate  kinds  that  need  annual 
lifting,  and  which  for  practical  purposes  may  be  ignored,  all 
Narcissi  are  the  better  for  being  left  in  the  ground  for  two  or 
three  years.  Perhaps  the  best  general  advice  to  give  is  to  lift 
at  the  end  of  every  third  year.  This  must  never  be  done 
until  the  foliage  has  turned  yellow,  and  is  lying  flat  on  the 
ground.  After  lifting,  the  bulbs  should  be  spread  out  to  dry 
in  an  airy  shed  or  room,  and  then  cleaned  and  divided  into 
sizes,  when  the  larger  ones  may  be  again  used  for  garden 
decoration,  and  the  small  ones  grown  on  nursery  beds,  or,  if 
there  is  no  room  available  for  the  purpose,  they  may  be  in 
the  case  of  the  cheaper  sorts  thrown  away. 

A  third  point  of  immense  importance  is  the  best  time  to 
plant.  All  the  most  famous  growers  plant  as  early  as  possible. 
The  month  of  August  is  none  too  soon,  but  it  is  quite  safe  to 
do  it  in  September  and  early  October.  After  the  middle  of 
the  latter  month  the  bulbs  begin  to  deteriorate,  and  then  the 


CO 


BULBOUS  FLOWERS  115 

longer  the  planting  is  delayed  the  less  vigorous  is  the  plant 
the  next  spring.  Plant  both  in  the  open  and  also  in  pots  as 
early  in  the  season  as  possible,  is  another  golden  rule.  Details 
of  management  are  out  of  place  in  a  general  treatise  ;  suffice 
it  to  say  now  that  ordinary  kinds  of  Daffodils  should  be  planted 
with  the  top  of  the  bulb  about  four  inches  below  the  level  of 
the  soil,  and  that  it  is  only  the  small  varieties  that  should  be 
near  the  surface.  The  practice  of  growing  bulbs  in  bowls,  or 
other  receptacles  which  have  no  drainage,  has  grown  of  late 
years,  as  it  is  a  convenient  method  of  having  flowers  when  soil 
is  difficult  to  procure,  as  in  large  towns  and  many  suburban 
districts.  Any  medium  which  will  give  a  foothold  to  the  roots 
and  will  retain  moisture  may  be  used.  Most  of  the  large 
dealers  in  bulbs  supply  a  suitable  compost  at  a  low  figure. 

As  in  the  case  of  bulbs  in  pots,  the  bowls  should  be  placed 
in  some  dark,  airy  place  for  the  first  six  weeks  after  they  have 
been  planted,  to  encourage  root  action — after  that  the  most 
important  point  to  see  to  is  that  the  compost  should  be  neither 
too  wet  or  too  dry.  If  either  of  these  extremes  takes  place 
and  is  suffered  to  continue,  the  plants  suffer,  and  in  bad 
cases  bloom  prematurely  or  perhaps  not  at  all. 

Planting  in  grass  is  now  largely  practised.  For  this  pur- 
pose a  Barr's  Bulb-planter  is  a  most  useful  tool,  and  enables 
the  work  to  be  done  neatly  and  quickly.  It  is  always  best  to 
wait  until  the  autumn  rains  have  softened  the  turf  before 
planting,  otherwise  the  same  operation  takes  much  longer  and 
never  seems  quite  so  satisfactory. 

A  list  of  a  few  of  some  the  most  suitable  varieties  for  the 
different  purposes  for  which  Daffodils  and  Narcissi  may  be 
used  will  be  useful.  As  the  descriptions  will  be  found  in  the 
usual  trade  catalogues  it  is  not  necessary  to  give  them  here. 

For  Pot  Work  in  January. — Henry  Irving,  Golden  Spur,  Princeps, 
Paper  White  Polyanthus  narcissus,  Obvallaris  (Tenby  Daffodil),  Cer- 
vantes, Campernelle  Jonquils,  Poeticus  ornatus,  and  the  old  double 
yellow  (Telemonius  Plenus). 

For  later  Work  in  Pots. — The  new  poetaz,  such  as  Alsace,  Aspasia, 
Irene,  Elvira,  and  Orient,  which  have  now  largely  taken  the  place  of 
the  Polyanthus  narcissus ;  Emperor,  Victoria,  Mrs.  Langtry,  Seagull, 
King  Alfred  if  not  too  expensive,  W.  P.  Milner,  Autocrat,  Sir  Watkin, 
Lucifer,  Blackwell,  Stromboli,  many  of  the  new  Giant  Leedsii,  Madame 
de  Graaff,  Queen  of  Spain,  Orphee,  Weardale  Perfection,  and  Firebrand. 

For  Bowls  without  Drainage.— Most  of  the  above. 

For  Rockeries. — Such  small  growing  varieties  as  Queen  of  Spain, 
W.  P.  Milner,  Minimus  (the  smallest  Daffodil  in  the  world),  Nanus, 
Lobularis,  Juncifolius,  Triandras  albus,  Bulbocodiam  citrinus,  Jonquilla 


n6  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

simplex,   tenuior,   gracilis,  moschatus,   and  some  of   the  newer  dwarf- 
growing  hybrids,  such  as  Beryl  and  Diana. 

For  Grass. — Nearly  all  the  larger  Daffodils  and  Narcissi  do  well.  The 
following  should  always  be  tried  :  Pallidus  prcecox,  Horsfieldii,  Lobularis 
(small  early  trumpet),  Princeps,  John  Ball,  Autocrat,  Sir  Watkin,  Poeticus 
recurvus,  the  wild  Lent  Lily,  Emperor,  Barrii  conspicuus,  Vanessa, 
Minnie  Hume,  and  in  some  places  Albicans  or  Mrs.  Thomson. 

For  Borders. — It  will  be  most  useful  to  enumerate  a  few  of  the  new 
ones  of  sterling  merit  which  can  be  safely  bought :  Duke  of  Bedford, 
Firebrand,  Lucifer,  Lady  Margaret  Boscawen,  White  Lady,  Seagull, 
Argent,  Beethoven  (soft  yellow  trumpet),  Hall  Caine,  Madame  de 
Graaff,  Vanilla,  Ben  Jonson  (poet),  Horace  (poet),  Cassandra  (poet), 
King  Alfred  (when  the  climate  suits),  Whitewell,  Elvira  (poetaz), 
Orient  (poetaz),  Torch,  Diana  (Giant  Leedsii),  Solfatare,  Noble,  Occident, 
and  Olympia. 

For  Cutting. — Such  decorative  or  light-looking  flowers  as  Frank 
Miles,  Countess  of  Southesk  (a  white  Frank  Miles),  Torch,  Duchess  of 
Westminster,  Golden  Bell,  Maximus,  Golden  Spur,  Castile,  Eyebright, 
Thora  (Giant  Leedsii),  Beethoven  (yellow  trumpet),  Mrs.  Langtry,  Barrii 
conspicuus,  Princeps,  Olympia  (very  large  yellow  trumpet),  and  the 
Rugulosus  variety  of  the  Campernelle  Jonquil. 

Ornithogalum  (Star  of  Bethlehem). — Attractive  plants  bearing  heads 
of  white  flowers.  0.  arabicum  and  0.  pyramidale  throw  up  flower-spikes 
four  feet  in  height,  while  comosum,  latifolium,  the  greyish  green  nutans, 
and  umbellatum  are  also  attractive.  Plant  in  autumn. 

Puschkinia  scilloides  is  a  pretty  little  blue-flowered  plant  suitable 
for  nooks  in  sunny  borders.  Plant  in  autumn. 

Schizostylis  COCCinea  (Winter  Flag). — This  bears  crimson  flower- 
spikes  in  late  autumn.  Its  place  is  against  a  warm  fence,  wall,  or  in  some 
sheltered  corner.  It  enjoys  rather  a  moist  soil,  but  nothing  approaching 
stagnation.  During  very  severe  weather  protect  the  crowns  with  bracken 
or  similar  material.  Plant  in  spring. 

Scillas  or  Squills. — The  common  bluebell  (S.  nutans)  is  well  known 
throughout  England,  and  many  of  the  family  are  well  worthy  of  garden 
culture,  amongst  these  being  S.  bifolia,  S.  hispanica,  S.  italica,  and  S. 
sibirica.  The  Scillas  form  a  very  charming  family  of  bulbs,  very  easily 
grown  by  the  amateur.  They  are  a  sheet  anchor  in  the  small  garden 
from  the  time  of  5.  bifolia,  the  earliest  of  the  family  to  bloom,  until  the 
spikes  of  S.  campanulata,  or  hispanica,  as  it  also  is  called,  have  faded. 
S.  bifolia  is  a  very  pretty  kind,  very  hardy,  and  with  spikes  of  deep  blue 
flowers  a  few  inches  high,  whilst  there  are  varieties  of  it,  such  as  the 
pretty  taurica  alba  or  Candida,  white,  rosea,  or  carnea,  the  names  indicat- 
ing the  flower  colouring.  S.  sibirica  has  intense  blue  flowers,  and  is  very 
free  and  cheap.  The  amateur  should  plant  the  bulbs  in  quantity.  Of 
the  Bluebell  there  are  white,  rose-coloured,  and  French-grey  varieties, 
but  more  satisfactory  in  a  confined  place  is  S.  campanulata,  the  Spanish 
Scilla,  which  will  flourish  in  town  and  country  gardens  alike.  It  is  very 
strong  in  growth,  with  stems  eighteen  inches  high,  and  deep  blue,  but 


NARCISSUS  WH1TEWELL,A  BEAUTIFUL  VARIETY 
FOR  GARDEN  AND  EXHIBITION. 


BULBOUS   FLOWERS  117 

there  are  varieties  of  it,  white,  rose,  and  pink,  and  all  vigorous.  The 
Spanish  Scilla  will  grow  in  quite  a  shady  place.  Put  the  bulb  two  inches 
deep  in  autumn. 

Snake' s-head.    See  Fritillary. 

Snowdrop.     See  Galanthus. 

Sternbergias  (Winter  Daffodil).— S.  lutea,  the  Winter  Daffodil, 
bears  bright  yellow  crocus-like  flowers  in  autumn,  and  is  supposed  to  be 
the  "  Lily  of  the  Field  "  of  Scripture.  The  Sternbergias  form  a  beauti- 
ful group  of  autumn-flowering  bulbous  plants.  They  are  not  in  the 
least  degree  difficult  to  grow.  Sometimes  newly-planted  bulbs  will  not 
bloom,  but  this  is  frequently  due  to  the  imported  ones  being  of  a  very 
small  size,  so  much  so,  that  two  years  elapse  before  they  are  sufficiently 
strong  to  flower.  After  that  period  they  increase.  A  light  and  well- 
drained  soil  is  needful,  and,  if  heavy  naturally,  lighten  it  by  adding 
grit,  leaf-mould,  and  road-scrapings.  Plant  the  bulbs  early  in  August, 
at  a  depth  of  eight  inches.  A  form  of  S.  lutea,  called  angustifolia,  is 
not  so  shy  flowering  as  the  type.  S.  I.  major  is  another  excellent  form, 
with  very  rich  yellow  flowers.  S.  I.  fischeriana  blooms  in  February, 
or  soon  after.  All  the  autumn-flowering  forms  of  5.  lutea  produce  foliage 
at  the  time  of  flowering.  A  very  important  species  is  S.  macraniha, 
which  is  also  autumn-flowering,  sending  up  leaves  in  early  spring.  The 
flowers  are  twice  the  size  of  those  of  S.  lutea.  S.  colchiflora  is  of  smaller 
growth,  but  the  rich  yellow  flowers  possess  quiet  beauty. 

Tigridias  (Tiger  Flowers}. — These  gorgeous  flowers  cannot  be  con- 
sidered hardy  except  in  light  soil  in  especially  favoured  districts.  T. 
Pavonia  is  the  most  familiar  kind.  Its  flowers  are  of  brief  duration, 
but  a  succession  appears,  so  that  their  short  life  is  unnoticed.  The 
flowers  are  about  six  inches  across,  and  intense  scarlet,  splendidly  spotted 
and  dabbled  with  crimson.  There  are  beautiful  forms,  such  as  grandi- 
flora}  which,  as  the  name  suggests,  is  conspicuous  for  its  larger  size,  and 
the  yellow  blotched  with  red  T.  conchifiora.  Tigridias  requires  a  hot, 
moderately  dry,  sunny  place,  such  as  many  borders  offer.  Generally 
it  is  necessary  to  lift  the  bulbs  in  autumn,  much  as  one  would  a  Gladiolus, 
but  in  the  quite  southern  parts  of  the  country  they  will  be  safe  in  the 
ground  all  winter.  Plant  in  the  middle  of  April,  putting  the  bulbs  six 
inches  deep,  and  a  little  sand  for  them  to  rest  upon  in  the  hole,  to  reduce 
risk  of  rotting  off  to  a  minimum.  Lift  the  bulbs  in  November,  and  store 
in  a  dry  cellar,  or  some  place  free  from  frost. 

Triteleia  uniflora  is  an  attractive  flower,  with  quantities  of  white, 
star-shaped  blossoms  in  April.  It  does  well  in  light  soil  in  raised  positions. 
Plant  in  autumn  two  inches  deep. 

Tulips. — The  advent  of  the  "  Darwin  "  strain  of  Tulips 
almost  twenty-five  years  ago  has  done  more  than  anything 
else  to  restore  the  Tulip  to  its  rightful  place  in  our  gardens. 
The  early  varieties,  classed  as  a  whole,  may  be  said  to  be  on 
the  formal  or  stiff  side,  and  while  they  are  undoubtedly  useful 
for  early  spring  bedding,  they  have  not  the  same  charm  or 


n8  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

grace  that  the  taller  and  later  flowering  cottage  and  Darwin 
ones  have.  These  latter  fill  an  important  and  necessary  place 
in  the  first  three  weeks  of  the  month  of  May.  Daffodils  are  then 
over,  and  there  would  be  a  distinct  interregnum  in  the  garden  as 
far  as  colour  is  concerned  had  we  not  these  brightly  coloured 
flowers  to  come  along  after  the  yellow  and  white  of  the  Nar- 
cissus family.  We  strongly  recommend  them  for  this  purpose, 
more  especially  as  their  culture  is  simple,  and  their  cost  by 
no  means  prohibitive.  Before  giving  any  general  principles 
of  management  out  of  doors,  we  must  remind  readers  that 
the  early  singles  and  doubles  are  very  good  for  pot  culture, 
and — what  may  be  news  to  some — we  must  call  attention  to  the 
adaptability  of  almost  the  whole  of  the  Darwin  family  for  the 
same  purpose  as  valuable  succession  plants  to  come  in  during 
the  latter  part  of  March  and  April.  All  they  need  is  very  cool 
treatment.  Pot  culture  will,  however,  be  found  dealt  with  on 
page  314. 

The  following  directions  as  to  successful  Tulip-growing  are 
obviously  only  general.  Details  of  culture  must  be  sought  for 
in  more  specialised  works,  and  also  a  trade  catalogue,  many 
of  which  supply  much  valuable  information. 

Soil. — Any  good  garden  soil  will  grow  Tulips.  The  best  results  are 
usually  obtained  where  it  is  on  the  stiff  side,  and  where  there  is  a  certain 
amount  of  lime  present,  and  where  the  subsoil  is  moist  and  cool. 

Position. — Tulips  like  a  fairly  sunny  position  which  is  sheltered 
from  cold  winds,  and  where  the  early  rays  of  the  morning  sun  do  not 
strike  the  buds  too  early  in  the  day.  If  possible  it  is  best  not  to  plant 
them  for  two  years  running  in  the  same  bed  or  border.  It  cannot  be  too 
widely  known  that  cold  winds  and  cold  draughts  are  very  detrimental. 

Protection. — It  is  impossible  to  do  much  in  this  way  in  the  flower 
garden,  but  where  Tulips  are  grown  for  cutting  or  for  show,  some  idea  of 
how  to  protect  and  shade  may  be  gleaned  from  the  two  illustrations 
given  here.  A  slight  shade  either  as  a  wind-screen  or  as  a  covering 
lengthens  the  flowering  period  considerably. 

Planting.— The  latter  half  of  October  and  the  first  half  of  November 
is  the  best  time  for  planting,  although  the  operation  may  be  delayed 
until  early  December  with  no  very  harmful  results.  Put  the  bulbs  in  the 
ground  and  allow  from  two  inches  to  four  inches  of  soil  over  them,  accord- 
ing as  they  are  large  or  small  varieties.  As  to  the  distance  from  each  other 
at  which  they  should  be  planted,this  must  be  leftto  the  ideals  of  the  planter 
and  the  depth  of  his  pocket.  The  dwarf  early  varieties  must  be  put  in 
fairly  thickly  to  look  well.  It  is  less  imperative  in  the  case  of  the  later 
ones,  and  in  addition  ground  or  carpet  plants  can  be  suitably  introduced. 
Never,  if  it  can  be  avoided,  put  Tulips  two  years  running  in  the  same 
ground.  If  this  is  necessary  double  dig  and  enrich  with  old  cow  manure, 
bone  meal,  or  basic  slag. 


BULBOUS   FLOWERS  119 

Lifting. — If  possible  lift  every  year.  This  undoubtedly  gives  the  best 
results.  Tulips  will,  however,  succeed  fairly  well  if  they  are  undisturbed 
for  two,  three,  or  sometimes  a  larger  number  of  years,  especially  if  the 
soil  is  light.  The  writer  has  seen  good  flowering  clumps  in  old  cottage 
gardens  which  have  not  been  lifted  for  ten  to  twenty  years.  Somehow, 
as  in  the  case  of  the  Madonna  Lily,  the  ordinary  canons  of  horticulture 
do  not  apply  to  these  lowly  spots.  Hence  we  should  never  advise  anyone 
to  try  it.  The  time  to  lift  is  when  the  foliage  has  partly  turned  yellow 
and  is  soft  and  flabby  to  the  touch.  Speaking  broadly,  it  will  be  from 
the  middle  of  June  to  the  middle  of  July. 

Storing. — When  the  bulbs  are  dug  up  put  them  in  an  airy,  sunless 
shed,  outhouse,  or  room  to  dry,  and  be  sure  to  take  away  all  the  green 
leaves,  should  any  be  remaining.  If  the  beds  where  late  Tulips  are  grow- 
ing are  wanted  for  summer  bedding,  the  plants  may  be  lifted  (if  it  can 
be  done  without  breaking  off  any  foliage  or  roots)  and  at  once  heeled  in 
in  some  other  part  to  ripen  off,  when  the  usual  lifting  processes  may 
take  place. 

Diseases, — Two  different  fungi  attack  Tulips.  The  withered  and 
dried-up  look  of  the  foliage,  which  is  generally  observed  just  before  or 
at  flowering  time,  is  caused  by  "  fire."  Any  damage  to  the  outer  tegu- 
ment of  the  foliage  from  hail,  sun  on  frozen  beads  of  water,  &c.,  is  con- 
ducive to  this.  Cut  off  all  affected  parts  as  soon  as  and  as  much  as 
possible. 

The  other  disease  is  a  sort  of  rot,  and  is  much  more  deadly,  and  may  be 
known  by  the  stem  coming  away  from  the  bulb  with  the  slightest  pull. 
Take  up  every  bulb  so  affected  with  the  surrounding  soil  and  burn  the 
whole.  Never  plant  Tulips  in  that  particular  ground  if  the  disease  has 
been  at  all  bad  for  five  or  six  years. 

Some  of  the  best  varieties  are  contained  in  the  following  selections.  A 
diagram  of  a  Tulip  bed  is  given  on  the  next  page.  Early  singles — Yellows  : 
Mon  Tresor,  Prince  de  Ligny  (tall  and  pointed),  Yellow  Prince.  Orange  : 
Fred  Moore,  Christian  de  Wet,  Prince  of  Austria.  Pink  and  Rose  : 
Cottage  Maid,  Pink  Beauty,  Le  Matclas.  Reds  :  Artis  Coleur  Cardinal 
(late),  Dusart,  Vermillion  Brilliant  (early).  Whites  :  Brunhilde,  Princess 
Helene,  White  Pottebakker.  Various  :  Keizerskroon  (red  and  yellow), 
Van  der  Neer  (rosy  purple),  Hector  (orange  and  orange  red),  La  Remar- 
quable  (purple  red  edged  flesh).  Early  double  :  Murillo  (pinky  white), 
Safrano  (pinky  yellow),  Cochineal  (crimson),  Schoonoord  (pure  white), 
Couronne  d'or  (orange).  Cottage — Branching:  Mons.  S.  Mottet. 
Browny  shades:  Clio,  Toison  d'or,  Jaune  d'QEuf,  Gondvink.  Mauve 
and  pinky  mauve :  Jnglescombe  Pink,  Le  Reve  (mid-season),  Saloman. 
Yellow  :  Inglescombe  Yellow,  Ellen  Willmott,  Moonlight,  Mrs.  Moon, 
Bouton  d'or,  Leghorn  Bonnet,  Vitellina.  Reds  :  Elegans,  Gesners,  La 
Merveille,  Scarlet  Emperor,  Scarlet  Mammoth .  Picotee  edged :  Golden 
Crown,  Picotee,  Isabella.  White  :  White  Swan,  Didiera  alba  (species). 
Orange :  Orange  King.  Broken  :  Striped  Beauty,  Dainty  Maid,  Col- 
umbus, Gold  Flake,  Buenoventura.  Darwins — Red  :  Isis,  Mr.  Farncombc 
Sanders,  Pride  of  Haarlem,  William  Pitt,  Loveliness.  Pink  :  Clara  Butt, 


120 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


Fanny,Suzon,  Flamingo. 
Mauve:  Rev.H.Ewbank, 
Euterpe,  Erguste.  Dark 
shades    and    purple: 
Velvet  King,   Fra  An- 
gelico,  Zanzibar,    Zulu, 
The      Bishop,      Marie. 
Nearly       white :        La 
Candeur,     Margaret. 
Deep  crimson  :    Millet, 
King  Harold,  Donders. 
Parrots  :  These  are  best 
in  clumps  but  are  not 
very     free.       All     are 
M    equally  suitable.  Species: 
8    For  borders — Mauriana, 
^    Prcsstans3  Tubergeniana, 
§    Sprengeri,     Strangulata 
3    primulina,     Billieliana, 
g    Fosteriana,  Greigi  (last 
~    two    a    little    doubtful 
&  doers).     For  rockeries  : 
§    Linifolia,    Batalini, 
|    Didieri    (type),    Kauf- 
^  manniana,  Dasystemon, 
§    Marjolletti.        Rem- 
£    brandts  :  a  new  race  of 
S    broken  Darwins,  which 
|    seem  to  be  coming  into 
^    favour — Admiral  Kings- 
^    bergen  (red  and  white), 
j;    Crimson  Beau ty,Semele, 
"    Quasimodo,  Procles,  Red 
2    Prince,    Victor    Hugo. 
Florist  varieties  :   these 
are  not  much  cultivated 
at    the    present   time. 
Everything  depends  on 
the  beauty  of  the  mark- 
ings   of   the  individual 
flower.  They  are  divided 
into     Bizarres,     Roses, 
Bybloemens,          and 
Breeders.    Some  of  the 
Lancashire   and   York- 
shire towns  are  centres 
of  their  cultivation,  and 
there  is  now  an  annual 


BULBOUS   FLOWERS  121 

Florist  Tulip  show  in  London.  It  is  a  pity  they  are  not  more  widely 
taken  up,  for  in  a  small  space  and  at  no  very  great  cost  a  most  interest- 
ing and  alluring  hobby  may  be  set  up.  Information  may  be  obtained 
from  Mr.  W.  Peters,  Farcet  House,  Cambridge,  who  is  the  honorary 
secretary  of  the  National  Society. 


THE   CARNATION    AND    PICOTEE 


THE  Carnation  is  certainly  one  of  the  most  beautiful  flowers 
of  the  garden.  For  three  centuries  at  least  it  has  been 
pre-eminent  in  English  gardens,  and  is  cultivated  by  all 
classes.  The  cottagers  grow  it  in  their  small  front  gardens  ; 
the  occupants  of  villas,  now  so  numerous  near  every  large 
town,  make  a  speciality  of  the  Carnation,  for  it  will  thrive 
and  produce  its  handsome  flowers  under  the  smoky  condi- 
tions that  usually  prevail.  A  gentleman  of  some  eminence  in 
London,  and  who  lives  within  three  or  four  miles  of  the  Bank 
of  England,  had  made  up  his  mind  to  leave  his  residence  and 
go  farther  into  the  country,  as  he  could  not  grow  Roses  and 
other  flowers  he  loved.  He  tried  Carnations,  which  were  a 
great  success,  and  he  then  decided  to  remain  in  the  old  home. 
There  is  no  sense  in  making  comparisons  favourable  or  un- 
favourable between  Carnations  and  other  flowers  of  the  garden; 
all  flowers  have  their  admirers.  They  do  not  all  flower  at  the 
same  time,  but  some  can  be  obtained  at  all  seasons  by  skilful 
culture,  others  cannot.  Amongst  those  amenable  to  forcing 
and  flowering  at  every  season  of  the  year  is  the  Carnation. 

I  twill  be  my  duty  to  give  as  full  an  account  as  possible  of 
the  Carnation  and  Picotee  in  every  class,  those  beloved  of  the 
"  florist "  as  well  as  the  even  more  popular  garden  varieties. 

The  Carnation  in  its  wild  state  is  the  Dianthus  Caryophillus 
of  the  botanist,  and  is  found  generally  on  the  walls  of  old 
castles,  &c.  It  did  grow  at  one  time,  and  may  now,  on  the 
walls  of  Rochester  Castle.  This  may  give  us  some  inkling 
of  the  conditions  under  which  the  plant  may  be  cultivated 
in  our  gardens.  Certainly  the  supply  of  food  to  be  obtained 
on  the  walls  of  an  old  castle  cannot  be  rich ;  but  it  is  well 
known  that  such  plants  are  free  from  the  diseases  that  afflict 
the  tufts  nursed  on  rich  loam,  and  stimulated  with  artificial 
manures. 

Border  Carnations. — This  is  somewhat  a  vague  term,  as 
almost  every  class  or  section  of  the  Carnation  is  adapted  for 
culture  in  the  garden,  and  it  is  merely  a  matter  of  the  taste  of 
the  owner  of  the  garden  as  to  the  varieties  that  are  preferred. 


THE   CARNATION   AND   PICOTEE         123 

A  very  fine  display  can  be  obtained  by  growing  seedlings,  but 
to  obtain  anything  like  good  results  seed  should  be  saved 
from  the  finest  varieties  in  cultivation,  and  the  flowers  ought 
also  to  be  cross-fertilised.  This  is  done  by  settng  aside  the 
best  varieties  in  [their  respective  classes,  and  using  the  pollen 
of  a  variety  with  well-formed  flowers  and  of  decided  colour. 

The  seed  bearer  should  be  of  robust  habit  and  of  good 
constitution ;  the  flowers  to  be  also  of  high-class  quality. 
The  flowers  of  Tree  or  winter-flowering  Carnations  are  cross- 
fertilised  in  May  and  June.  So  also  is  the  Malmaison  for 
seed.  The  border  and  show  Carnation  seed  is  obtained 
by  placing  the  plants  under  glass,  and  setting  the  blossoms 
in  July,  as  in  that  month  the  flowers  are  produced  without 
forcing.  The  seed  will  ripen  in  two  months,  and  the  pods 
must  be  gathered  as  soon  as  the  seed  is  nearly  black.  The 
pods  become  brownish  when  the  seed  is  ripe.  Dry  the  seed 
in  the  pods,  and  when  it  has  lain  in  a  dry  place  in  the  pod 
for  two  or  three  weeks  the  seed  may  be  removed,  done  up  in 
packets,  labelled,  and  dated,  and  kept  until  the  spring.  The 
Tree  Carnation  seed  should  be  sown  in  February,  and  if  the 
plants  are  grown  on  and  carefully  attended  to  they  will  flower 
in  the  autumn  and  winter  of  the  same  year.  On  the  other 
hand,  the  Malmaison  and  border  Carnation  seed  is  best  if 
sown  about  the  end  of  March  or  early  in  April,  so  that  the 
plants  have  a  full  season  to  make  their  growth  ;  they  will 
flower  in  due  course  the  following  season.  The  flowering  of 
the  seedlings  is  a  time  of  excitement ;  there  will  be  some 
pleasant  surprises,  and,  until  the  amateur  is  seasoned  by  some 
years  of  experience,  times  also  of  disappointment.  I  receive 
hundreds  of  letters  from  amateurs  in  the  course  of  the  season, 
and  it  is  amusing  to  read  the  different  notions  they  have  of 
the  results  to  be  obtained  from  sowing  seed.  Many  have  an 
idea  that  they  can  reproduce  the  finest  varieties  from  seed ; 
others  that  if  the  seed  is  saved  from  the  best  varieties  all  the 
seedlings  may  be  like  their  parentage  to  a  certain  extent,  and 
if  any  varieties  are  produced  amongst  them  with  single 
flowers,  showing  a  reversion  to  the  original  parentage,  the 
easiest  way  is  to  blame  the  seed.  Taking  a  hundred  plants 
raised  from  the  best  strains  of  seed,  there  would  be  a  dozen 
to  fifteen  plants  with  single  flowers.  Seventy  or  eighty  would 
be  varieties  with  double  flowers  of  unequal  merit ;  perhaps 
five  or  six  might  be  worth  growing  again  to  be  tested  against 
the  named  varieties. 

The  cross-fertilisation  gives  some  very  curious  results. 
For  instance,  it  is  intended  to  produce  some  new  varieties  of 


i24  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

yellow  or  white  ground  Picotees,  and  care  is  taken  to  cross- 
fertilise  the  best  varieties  in  the  various  classes.  The  flowers 
may  be  yellow  or  white,  with  narrow  margins  of  red,  rose- 
pink,  purple,  scarlet,  &c.  The  seedlings  produced  from  such 
crosses  would  give  a  large  proportion  of  self  flowers,  and 
nondescript  fancies  of  various  colours.  The  yellow  ground 
varieties  produce  many  seedlings  with  white  grounds ;  but 
seedlings  from  white  ground  Picotees  may  never  be  expected 
to  produce  varieties  with  yellow  grounds.  Similar  results  are 
obtained  if  seed  is  saved  from  flaked  and  bizarre  Carnations ; 
selfs  and  fancies  are  freely  produced  from  such,  whereas  an 
inexperienced  amateur  might  think  he  ought  to  have  all  white 
ground  Picotees  from  seed  saved  from  such,  and  the  same 
with  flakes  and  bizarre. 

When  choice  varieties  are  obtained  they  should  be  pro- 
pagated from  layers  in  the  usual  way,  and  a  good  stock  of 
healthy  plants  will  soon  be  established. 

A  bed  of  well-grown  seedling  Carnations  is  a  beautiful 
feature  in  any  garden.  The  seed  if  sown  as  advised  in 
March,  April,  or  early  May,  and  the  plants  well  cultivated — 
that  is,  planted  in  good  deep  rich  soil  and  about  15  inches 
asunder — each  of  them  will  produce  a  hundred  to  two  hun- 
dred blooms,  and  they  may  be  cut  in  handfuls  of  flowers 
and  buds  borne  on  long  stems.  For  placing  in  vases  for  this 
purpose  the  single  flowers  are  also  of  merit. 

Propagation  and  Culture  of  Border  Carnations.— Every  one 
with  a  garden  of  any  kind  can  grow  border  Carnations. 
They  do  not  suffer  much,  if  at  all,  in  an  impure  atmosphere, 
but  to  obtain  the  best  results  good  loam  is  needed,  with  some 
good  rich  manure  placed  some  6  inches  below  the  surface. 
Lime,  or  chalk,  especially  in  the  form  of  old  mortar,  is  also 
much  appreciated  if  dug  into  the  border ;  it  imparts  a  beau- 
tiful blue-grey  tint  to  the  foliage.  The  fibrous  roots  very 
soon  reach  the  manure  or  lime,  and  the  effect  is  seen  in 
healthy  foliage  and  large  well-developed  flowers. 

The  plants  are  obtained  by  layering  in  July  and  August. 
The  layering  may  be  continued  into  September,  but  the 
strongest  and  best  plants  are  from  layers  late  in  July  or  early 
in  August.  About  the  last  week  of  September,  or  any  time 
during  the  month  of  October,  they  may  be  removed  from  the 
parent  plants,  and  planted  out  where  they  are  to  flower. 

The  amateur  gardener  will  notice  when  his  Carnations  and 
Picotees  are  flowering  in  the  month  of  July  that  some  growths 
are  developing  at  the  Base  of  the  flower  stem.  These  growths 
are  called  "  grass/'  and  are  intended  when  fully  grown  to  be 


THE   CARNATION   AND   PICOTEE        125 

"  layered,"  and  thus  make  fresh  flowering  plants  for  the 
ensuing  year.  These  pieces  of  "  grass "  are  known  as 
"  layers "  in  all  border  Carnations  and  Picotees  because  of 
the  "  layering  "  method  by  means  of  which  the  stock  of  these 
is  usually  perpetuated.  About  a  single  flower  stem  of  Carna- 
tion there  may  be  six  or  more  pieces  of  grass  or  layers,  and 
the  whole  of  these,  if  properly  dealt  with,  will  make  fine 
flowering  plants  for  the  following  year.  The  work  of  layering 
is  usually  accomplished  in  the  end  of  July  or  early  in  August. 
Perform  it  in  this  way.  Take  one  of  the  layers  in  the  left 
hand,  and,  beginning  from  the  ground  level,  carefully  remove 
all  the  leaves  on  the  stem  for  a  space  of  two  inches.  Endea- 
vour in  removing  the  leaves  not  to  tear  the  skin  of  the  stem, 
or  if  preferred  remove  the  leaves  with  sharp  scissors.  The 
object  in  removing  the  leaves,  which  occur  in  pairs  on  the 
stem,  is  to  allow  of  the  growth  being  well  laid  down  (hence 
the  term  tl  layering ")  in  the  soil.  Every  shoot  or  layer 
must  be  dealt  with  in  the  same  way  until  all  are  ready  for 
putting  down.  When  all  the  pieces  are  thus  trimmed,  gently 
stir  up  the  soil  an  inch  deep  or  thereabouts  all  round  the 
plant. 

Purchase  some  "  layering  pegs  "  made  of  straight  bits  of 
thin  wire  six  inches  long  with  a  crook  at  one  end,  or,  what 
will  do  just  as  well,  some  long  hairpins.     These  are  intended 
to  hold  the  layer  steadily  in  the 
soil.     Then  with  a  sharp  pen- 
knife  make  an   upward  cut  in 
the  portion   of  the   stem  from 
which  the  leaves  were  removed 
previously,     and    this     is     the 
method  to  follow.     Take  one  of 
the  layers  with   the  left  hand, 
grasping  all  the  leaves.     Place 
the  forefinger  of  the  same  hand 
low  down  on  the  prepared  part 
of  the  stem,  and  cut  into  the 
stem   just  below   a  good  joint, 
continuing  the  cut  in  an  upward     FlG  I3._Carnation  Shoot  Layered, 
direction   for   almost   an   inch. 

Endeavour  to  make  the  cut  quite  in  the  centre  of  the  stem. 
When  the  knife  is  withdrawn  one  portion  remains  in  direct 
communication  with  the  upper  portion  of  the  growth,  while 
the  other  is  separated  from  it.  The  separated  part  is  called 
the  "  nib  "  or  tl  tongue,"  and  it  is  from  this  that  the  roots  will 
eventually  be  produced.  Place  the  layer  in  the  soil,  already 


126  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

loosened  to  receive  it.  Make  a  tiny  trench  with  the  finger, 
and  while  keeping  the  tongue  of  the  shoot  open  lay  the  stem 
on  the  surface,  and  carefully  peg  it  into  position,  finally 
covering  rather  firmly  with  soil.  In  every  case  rooting  of 
the  layers  is  greatly  assisted  by  using  a  good  addition  of  sand 
of  any  kind,  even  builder's  sand  will  do.  This  is  the  practical 
work  of  layering,  and  the  same  system  is  followed  not  only 
with  trees  but  hosts  of  rare  and  beautiful  subjects  that  take  a 
long  time  to  root  when  other  methods  are  adopted.  In 
dealing  with  the  Carnation  thus  the  chief  fear  is  in  the  process 
of  making  the  cut,  as  frequently  the  blade  slips  right  through 
the  stem  and  the  shoot  is  sacrificed.  The  best  way  to  obviate 
this  is  to  practise  a  little  on  boughs  of  Privet  or  shoots  of  trees 
before  starting  upon  the  Carnation.  Give  a  good  soaking  of 
water  when  layering  is  finished. 

The  Carnation  gives  the  best  results  if  planted  in  beds  or 
masses,  so  that  an  imposing  group  of  one  colour  is  ob- 
tained if  the  garden  is  a  large  one  ;  small  beds  may  be 
made  of  white,  crimson,  yellow,  scarlet,  pink,  &c.  In  small 
gardens  there  may  be  room  for  one  small  bed  only ;  in 
that  case  mixed  colours  must  be  grown.  The  plants  ought 
to  be  about  15  inches  asunder,  as  a  certain  space  is  neces- 
sary for  layering.  The  plants  may  also  be  put  out  in  open 
spaces  in  the  mixed  border ;  the  layers  may  be  thinned  out 
from  these  clumps,  some  good  soil  placed  around  those 
that  remain,  and  in  this  way  a  greater  mass  of  blossoms  may 
be  obtained  the  following  season.  In  some  gardens,  and  in 
certain  districts  unfavourable  to  the  growth  of  the  Carnation 
out  of  doors  in  winter,  it  may  be  better  to  put  up  the  plants 
in  small  flower-pots.  The  flower-pots  are  termed  small, 
medium,  and  large  6o's,  2j  inches,  3  inches,  and  3^  inches 
inside  measure.  Two  plants  are  placed  in  the  large  size  and 
single  plants  in  the  smaller  sizes.  They  are  potted  firmly,  and 
a  good  compost  is  four  parts  fibrous  loam,  one  part  leaf- 
mould,  and  one  part  decayed  manure  ;  this  material  answers 
admirably.  The  plants  can  be  wintered  in  ordinary  garden 
frames.  The  lights  may  be  kept  rather  close  for  a  week  or  so, 
but  when  fresh  roots  are  formed  they  should  be  removed 
whenever  the  weather  is  favourable,  and  during  the  winter 
only  give  sufficient  water  to  keep  the  pot  in  soil  from  becoming 
dust  dry.  Many  people  prefer  planting  in  autumn,  while 
others  believe  spring  is  best ;  but  if  strong  hardy  stock  is 
obtained  from  growers  of  repute  any  time  between  September 
and  May,  provided  the  weather  is  fairly  open  and  the  ground 
not  frozen,  will  be  successful. 


CARNATION   LAYERS   ROOTED   AND   READY   FOR 
LIFTING. 


A    YOUNG  PLANT  READY  FOR  POTTING  AND   ONE 
POTTED    UP. 


NEW    WHITE   PERPETUAL  FLOWERING  CARNATION 
WODENETHE  (See  Page  131). 


THE   CARNATION   AND   PICOTEE        127 

Nearly  all  amateurs  grow  a  goodly  number  of  plants  in 
flower-pots.  When  this  is  the  case  they  are  repotted  in 
March,  using  a  similar  potting  material.  Two  plants  may  be 
put  in  an  eight-inch  flower  pot  and  three  in  a  nine-inch.  Drain 
the  pots  well  with  potsherds.  Some  fibrous  material  ought 
to  be  used  to  prevent  the  loose  particles  of  soil  from  mixing 
with  the  drainage.  If  the  weather  happens  to  be  favourable 
at  the  time  of  repotting,  the  plants  may  be  put  out  at  once 
into  the  open  garden.  But  if  cold  east  winds  are  blowing, 
they  do  better  in  frames  until  they  become  established. 
At  the  same  time,  they  seldom  suffer  from  cold ;  wet  is  more 
likely  to  be  injurious  to  them.  Pot  firmly  is  an  established 
axiom  amongst  Carnation  growers,  but  this  may  be  overdone. 
I  have  seen  it  so  at  my  own  potting-bench.  The  best  border 
Carnations  are  the  self-colours,  and  they  are  now  to  be  had  in 
almost  any  shade. 

The  following  lists  have  been  kindly  compiled  by  Mr.  John 
Douglas,  the  well-known  Carnation  expert  of  Great  Bookham, 
Surrey.  These  varieties  marked  with  an  asterisk  have  re- 
ceived awards  of  merit  of  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society. 

Selfs- 

White  Varieties  :  Trojan,  Mrs.  Kenwood,  *  Bookham  White  (new). 

Yellow  :  *  Daffodil,  Eros,  and  Solfaterre. 

Buff  or  Apricot :  Mrs.  G.  A.  Reynolds,  *  Elizabeth  Shiffner,  Benbow 
(an  old  but  good  one),  Golden  Oriole,  and  Robert  Bruce. 

Crimson  :  Agnes  Sorrel,  Basuto,  Zulu,  and  *  Hercules. 

Ruby-coloured :  Lord  Nelson  and  Ruby. 

Dark  Rose  and  Pink :  *  Mrs.  Robert  Gordon,  Mandalay,  Lady  Her- 
moine)  *  Rosy  Morn  (extra  fine),  *  Miss  Willmott  (coral  red). 

Blush  :  Lady  Roscoe,  *  Annie  Laurie  (extra  fine),  Innocence,  Countess 
of  Paris. 

Red  and  Scarlet :  *  Cardinal,  Brigadier,  *  Jean  Douglas,  Ibis,  Prince 
Charlie,  Fuji  jama. 

Heliotrope  or  Mauve  :  Greyhound,  Ellen  Douglas,  Miss  Ellis,  *  Duchess 
of  Wellington  (very  fine). 

Fancy  Carnations. — These  have  a  lovely  effect  in  the  border. 
Unlike  the  fancies  of  long  ago,  the  present  day  representatives 
are  of  robust  constitution,  stronger  in  many  cases  than  the  Clove 
Carnation.  Few  other  flowers  afford  such  a  range  of  colour ; 
grounds  of  white,  blush  yellow,  buff,  heliotrope,  and  crimson  ; 
striped,  mottled,  splashed,  and  suffused,  with  every  shade  of 
colour  known  to  Carnations.  It  is  impossible  to  enumerate 


128  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

every  variety  worthy  of  a  place  in  the  garden.     A  few  of  the 
best  are  as  follows  : 

Alice  B.  Stewart,  apricot  marked  rose  ;  Forester,  yellow  marked  red 
and  crimson  ;  *  John  Ridd,  yellow  suffused  glorious  rosy  red  ;  Mona, 
beautiful  buff  suffused  pink  ;  Renown,  buff  ground,  heavily  splashed 
and  marked  brilliant  red  ;  *  Montrose,  white  ground,  marked  scarlet ; 
Mrs.  H.  L.  Hunt,  white  ground,  marked  lavender  ;  Virginia,  buff  ground, 
suffused  pink  ;  *  Liberte,  rich  yellow,  marked  maroon  and  crimson ; 
Linknan,  buff  ground,  suffused  scarlet ;  Mellon  Prior,  rich  yellow,  heavily 
marked  glowing  scarlet ;  Delicia,  white  ground,  marked  pink  and 
crimson  ;  the  Bride,  the  best  white  ground,  marked  rosy  red  (extra  fine) ; 
Normas,  yellow  ground,  striped  crimson  and  scarlet ;  Queen  Eleanor, 
buff  ground,  blotched  and  edged  copper  scarlet ;  Sweetheart,  delicate 
apricot,  marked  and  suffused  pink  ;  Osprey,  buff  ground,  spotted  scarlet ; 
Harlequin,  canary  yellow,  striped  rose  and  crimson. 

All  the  above  are  suitable  for  the  keenest  exhibition  pur- 
poses, and  on  account  of  their  robust  constitution  can  be 
grown  in  the  border  without  difficulty. 

The  Picotees. — Next  in  importance  as  border  or  greenhouse 
plants  are  the  Picotees  or  edged  flowers.  A  Picotee  to  reach  the 
standard  of  excellence  must  be  without  blemish  on  its  ground 
colour  and  evenly  edged  with  its  colouring,  of  good  form  and 
substance  of  petal.  Such  varieties  of  yellow  grounds  are  not 
easy  to  obtain.  The  yellows,  like  the  whites,  should  have  a 
clear  ground  with  broad,  medium,  or  wire  edge  of  red,  rose, 
crimson  purple,  and  scarlet.  The  late  Mr.  R.  Martin  Smith 
and  the  late  Mr.  James  Douglas  did  much  to  uphold  the  high 
standard  of  the  yellow  ground  Picotees.  At  that  time  the 
former  raised  Childe  Harold,  and  the  latter  Mrs.  James 
Douglas  (both  peerless  flowers),  but  both  since  superseded  by 
better. 

The  appended  list  of  varieties  will  be  found  pure  and  free 
from  blemish,  as  far  as  one  can  say  of  any  yellow  grown 
Picotee,  and  quite  suited  for  a  border  or  outdoor  life  : 

Yellow  ground. — Agnes,  Constance,  John  Ruskin,  Santa  Claus,  Mar- 
garet Lennox,  Onward,  Ophir,  Togo,  Exquisite,  Flora  M'lvor,  Richard 
Goodfellow. 

White  Ground. — Brunette,  Gannymede,  John  Smith,  Polly,  Brazil, 
Queen  of  Spain,  Amelia,  Ann  Lord,  Lavinia,  Mrs.  Sharp,  Radiant, 
Thomas  Williams. 

Bizarres  and  Flakes. — These  were  dearly  loved  by  the  old 
florists  more  than  a  hundred  years  ago,  and  are  still  cultivated 
and  shown  to  perfection  at  the  leading  Carnation  Shows  of  to- 


THE   CARNATION   AND   PICOTEE        129 

day.  But  as  the  showing  to  perfection  of  this  type  necessitates 
dressing  the  petals  with  tweezers  and  displaying  the  flower  on  a 
card  or  collar,  the  popularity  of  this  class  has  waned  ;  but  they 
can  still  be  seen  to  perfection  in  cottagers'  gardens  in  the  north, 
especially  on  Tyneside,  where  they  may  be  seen  in  great  beauty 
in  very  out-of-the-way  places  in  August.  They  are  divided  for 
show  and  exhibition  purposes  into  six  classes,  as  follows  :— . 
I.  Scarlet  Bizarres. — These  have  a  white  ground,  or  as  near 
white  as  possible ;  the  purer  the  white  is  the  greater  are  they 
esteemed.  The  colours  are  divided  into  lines  and  flakes,  and 
in  this  class  are  maroon  and  scarlet.  The  best  varieties  are  : 
Admiral  Curzon,  a  very  old  variety,  and  still  not  surpassed 
when  at  its  best ;  Dr.  Hogg,  Edward  Adams,  Robert  Houl- 
grave,  and  George  Lord.  II.  Crimson  Bizarres. — These  are 
white  grounds,  flaked  and  striped  with  crimson  and  purple. 
The  best  of  them  are :  Bruce  Findlay,  C.  F.  Thurston,  J.  S. 
Hedderley,  Master  Fred,  Phcebe,  and  Thaddeus.  III.  Pink 
and  purple  Bizarres. — These  are  pink  and  purple,  some  a  very 
pale  pink  are  of  delicate  beauty.  The  best  of  them  are  : 
Melody,  Harmony,  William  Skirving,  Squire  Penson,  and 
Sarah  Payne.  This  last  is  very  old,  but  still  grown  for  its 
charming  arrangement  of  colours.  There  are  also  three 
sections  or  groups  of  flaked  Carnations  included  in  the  show 
or  florists'  type.  IV.  Purple  Flakes. — These  have  also  a  white 
ground  with  flakes  of  purple.  The  best  of  them  are  :  Charles 
Henwood,  James  Douglas,  Squire  Whitbourn,  Gordon  Lewis, 
and  George  Melville.  V.  Scarlet  Flakes. — Flambeau,  Guards- 
man, John  Wormald,  Matador,  and  Sportsman.  VI.  Rose 
Flakes. — Lady  Mary  Curry,  Torchlight,  and  Recorder. 

Malmaison  Carnations.— This  favourite  flower  of  Queen 
Alexandra  is  one  of  the  most  useful  of  greenhouse  plants, 
giving  as  it  does,  when  properly  managed,  a  succession  of 
sweet-scented  bloom  from  March  until  August.  One  has  only 
to  inspect  an  exhibit  at  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society's  Show 
from  such  growers  as  Mr.  Leopold  de  Rothschild  or  Mr.  C.  F. 
Raphael  to  realise  the  possibilities  of  specimen  plants  for  con- 
servatory decoration  or  for  out  bloom.  One  very  fine  specimen 
in  a  i6-inch  pot,  shown,  we  believe,  by  the  latter  gentleman, 
bore  something  like  sixty-eight  disbudded  blooms,  some  of 
which  measured  5  inches  across.  The  late  Mr.  Martin  R. 
Smith  did  much  for  us  by  raising  new  kinds — some  thirty,  we 
believe,  which  are  now  standard  varieties.  He  failed  in  one 
respect,  as  everyone  has  done  who  has  essayed  the  task  of 
raising  a  good  yellow  Malmaison.  The  only  one  worth  saving 
was  found  to  be  a  variety  he  called  Yaller  Gal,  and  against  his 

I 


130  GARDENING   FOR  BEGINNERS 

own  judgment  it  was  put  on  the  market ;  but  alas  !  it  was  a 
poor  apology  for  a  yellow  Malmaison,  and  we  are  still  waiting 
for  a  good  one. 

Propagation. — Malmaison  Carnations  are  propagated  freely 
both  from  layers  and  cuttings  or  slips.  These  may  be  taken 
off  in  May  and  placed  under  hand-lights  or  a  propagating 
frame  in  a  little  bottom  heat.  They  must  be  shaded  from 
bright  sunshine,  and  also  kept  close  until  roots  are  formed. 
When  it  is  seen  that  some  growth  is  made,  more  air  must  be 
admitted,  and  the  shading  not  so  close  over  them  as  at  first. 
Layers  are  the  most  convenient  method  of  propagation,  and 
it  is  only  desirable  to  make  slips  of  the  growths  that  are  too 
high  up  on  the  main  stem  to  be  layered  in  the  flower-pot. 
When  the  layers  have  formed  roots,  which  may  be  in  July  and 
August,  they  ought  to  be  potted  up  into  sixty-sized  flower-pots, 
using  similar  soil  to  that  required  for  other  Carnations.  The 
plants  must  be  potted  into  larger  flower-pots  when  necessary. 
In  all  stages  of  growth,  especially  in  winter,  the  plants  should 
be  near  the  roof  glass,  and  in  a  dry,  airy  atmosphere.  A 
close  atmosphere,  especially  in  the  early  spring,  is  sure  to 
cause  "  spot."  The  temperature  in  winter  and  early  spring 
ought  not  to  be  higher  than  from  50  degs.  to  55  degs.  as  a 
minimum,  with  5  degs.  more  in  the  daytime. 

As  a  selection  for  general  purposes  I  should  give  : 

Astarte,  vivid  rose ;  Baldwin,  rose  pink ;  Duchess  of  Westminster, 
salmon  ;  Florizel,  rose ;  Lady  Rose,  pink ;  Margot,  salmon  pink ;  Mercia, 
salmon  pink  ;  Mary  Measures,  crimson  ;  Nautilus,  delicate  blush  pink  ; 
Nell  Gwynne,  white ;  Mrs.  Torrens,  salmon  pink ;  Mrs.  Trelawney, 
reddish  salmon. 

Tree  or  Perpetual-Flowering  Carnations.— -These  are  the 
most  delightful  ornaments  of  the  greenhouse  and  conservatory 
in  the  late  autumn,  winter,  and  spring  months,  and  they  are 
so  easily  grown  that  any  amateur  may  enjoy  their  beauty  and 
delicious  fragrance  all  the  year  round,  for  in  truth  they  will 
continue  to  flower  all  through  the  summer.  Large  well- 
branched  specimens  will  give  at  least  a  hundred  blooms  during 
the  season,  but  perhaps  the  most  useful  for  ordinary  purposes 
are  those  grown  and  flowered  in  five  and  six  inch  flower-pots. 

Propagation  and  General  Culture. — As  the  shoots  or  slips 
cannot  be  layered  owing  to  their  position  on  the  plants, 
they  must  be  propagated  entirely  by  slips  or  cuttings  in- 
serted into  pots  of  sandy  soil,  and  placed  in  a  propagating 
frame  or  close  greenhouse.  The  earliest  cuttings  are  put  in 


A    HOUSE   OF  MALMAISON   CARNATION 
PRINCESS    OF    WALES. 


& 
£ 


THE   CARNATION   AND   PICOTEE        131 

early  in  January;  they  form  roots  in  two  or  three  weeks, 
and  should  be  removed  from  the  frame  as  soon  as  they  are 
rooted  ;  pot  them  off  into  small  flower-pots,  and  gradually 
inure  them  to  a  cooler  atmosphere.  They  do  better  out  of 
doors  after  the  month  of  May,  and  should  be  taken  into 
the  greenhouse  early  in  September,  when  the  earliest  of 
them  will  begin  to  flower.  These  one-year-old  plants  are 
allowed  to  flower  in  five  and  six  inch  flower-pots,  and  the 
same  potting  materials  may  be  used  as  for  the  others.  If 
large  plants  are  wanted,  they  may  be  repotted  after  flowering, 
into  eight  and  nine  inch  pots.  For  these  larger  plants  the 
soil  ought  to  be  packed  in  firmly  over  good  drainage  secured 
by  some  quite  fibrous  loam  over  the  potsherds.  In  the  early 
stages  of  growth  the  plants  ought  to  be  stopped.  When  they 
are  merely  about  four  inches  high  the  centre  should  be 
pinched  out,  and  this  may  be  done  a  second  time  if  the  plants 
are  not  bushy  enough.  The  plants  must  be  kept  clean  and 
quite  free  from  insect  pests.  An  occasional  fumigation  with 
tobacco  smoke  will  effect  this. 

There  are  some  people  who  advise  amateurs  to  plant  per- 
petual-flowering Carnations  out  in  the  border ;  but  although 
in  some  instances  they  do  very  well,  they  will  never  take  the 
place  of  the  true  Border  Carnaiion,  and  the  Border  will  never 
supply  the  place  of  the  Tree.  Tree  Carnations  can  be  planted 
out  in  May  and  staked  with  tall  stakes,  for  they  grow  to  a 
height  of  three  feet  or  more.  Under  a  sunny  south  wall  is  a 
good  position,  where  the  locality  is  suitable  for  their  culture 
out  of  doors.  There  are  so  many  on  the  market,  and  so  many 
growers  of  American  sorts,  that  it  is  most  difficult  to  please 
every  one  in  a  limited  list  of  favourites ;  but  there  are  many 
varieties  with  high-sounding  names  and  posing  as  elite,  that 
are  still  a  little  behind  our  charming  first  love  Enchantress  ; 
and  it  has  yet  to  be  proved  that  the  grand  scarlet  British- 
raised  Britannia  has  been  superseded.  A  list  is  appended  of 
really  first-class  varieties : 

White-— Write  Enchantress,  White  Perfection  and  Wodenethe.  Scarlet 
and  Red — Britannia,  Beacon,  St.  Nicholas,  Victory,  William  Eccles,  scarlet 
glow.  Pink — Enchantress,  Dorothy  Gordon,  Lady  Meyer,  Rosette  (cerise), 
R.  F.  Felton,  Mrs.  C.  W.  Ward,  Pink  Delight,  Winsor  (rose)  Empire 
Day,  May  Day.  Crimson — Triumph,  Pocahontas,  Sultan.  Fancies — 
Bay  State,  Benova,  Sunstar,  Rainbow,  Hon.  Lady  Neeld.  Heliotrope — 
Geisha,  La  Mode,,  Salome.  Yellow— Golden  Pay. 

Diseases  and  Insect  Pests.— The  most  troublesome  and 
persistent  is  the  "  Rust "  (Helminthosporium  echinulatuni],  a 


132  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

fungoid  growth  which  develops  between  the  membranes  of 
the  leaves  ;  it  ultimately  bursts  and  scatters  its  coffee-coloured 
spores.  There  is  no  cure  except  to  cut  off  the  affected  leaves 
as  soon  as  the  disease  is  noticed.  A  good  preventive  is  spray- 
ing with  one  part  of  methylated  spirit  to  100  parts  of  water 
by  measure.  The  next  disease  is  "  Spot  "  (Uredo  dianthi)  ;  it 
is  not  so  deadly,  nor  is  it  really  infectious.  The  plants  should 
be  placed  in  a  light  and  airy  position,  and  in  as  dry  an  atmos- 
phere as  possible  ;  the  parts  attacked  should  be  cut  off.  I 
find  it  useless  to  dip  or  dust  the  plants.  Another  very  trouble- 
some pest  is  the  "eel  worm"  (Tylenckas).  This  is  a  minute 
nematoid  worm,  which  produces  the  disease  known  as  "  gout." 
The  worms  attack  the  collar  of  the  plant,  causing  it  to  swell ; 
they  seem  to  eat  their  way  up  the  stem,  and  ultimately  kill 
the  plant.  When  they  have  made  a  lodgment  in  the  plants 
there  is  no  cure ;  best  destroy  the  plants  and  remove  the 
soil. 

The  Carnation  maggot  (Hylemyia  nigrescens)  is  very  trouble- 
some, and  sometimes  does  much  damage  to  the  plants.  It 
does  more  mischief  to  those  planted  in  the  open  garden  than 
to  those  in  pots.  It  is  the  larvae  of  a  small  dipterous  black- 
fly,  which  greatly  resembles  in  appearance  the  house-fly ;  it 
is  generally  found  in  the  centre  of  the  plants,  and  it  eats  its 
way  down  until  the  heart  is  totally  destroyed.  It  is  easy  to 
see  where  the  depredator  is  at  work,  and  it  can  be  dug  out 
with  a  needle.  Wireworm  is  the  larva  of  a  small  beetle 
(Agriotes  lineatus).  In  the  larval  period  they  remain  in  the 
ground  from  three  to  five  years.  A  full-grown  wireworm  is 
about  an  inch  long,  of  a  yellow  colour,  hard  and  wiry  to  the 
touch.  They  work  underground  and  eat  into  the  stem,  work- 
ing up  the  centre  of  the  plant,  and  the  first  sign  of  its  being 
there  is  the  decay  of  the  leaves.  By  that  time  the  worm  has 
gone  into  the  ground  again,  and  is  probably  engaged  on 
another  plant.  For  pot  plants  it  is  best  to  look  the  potting 
soil  well  over  when  it  is  being  mixed.  In  the  open  garden 
a  good  plan  is  to  dig  in  a  coating  of  fresh  gas  lime  about  six 
months  before  planting  out  the  Carnations.  Slices  of  carrots 
inserted  in  the  soil  attract  the  wireworms ;  these  traps  may 
be  examined  three  times  a  week  and  destroyed. 

Aphides,  or  green-fly,  if  allowed  to  increase,  do  more 
mischief  than  most  people  imagine  ;  they  suck  the  juices  of 
the  plants,  and  cause  them  to  become  polluted  by  their  excre- 
ments, the  leaves  becoming  dirty  and  sticky  from  the  glutinous 
substances.  They  spread  rapidly  in  warm  weather,  but  can 
always  be  destroyed  with  tobacco  smoke,  or  the  plants  may 


THE    CARNATION   AND   PICOTEE         133 

be  dipped  in  a  solution  of  soft-soapy  water,  two  ounces  to  the 
gallon.  This  will  also  kill  them. 

The  small  yellow  thrips  are  also  most  troublesome  on  the 
choice  show  Carnations,  and  quite  spoil  the  beautiful  Flakes 
and  Bizarres.  The  pest  attacks  the  unfolded  petals  of  the 
Carnations  even  before  the  colour  is  seen  bursting  from  the 
calyx.  The  white  ground  Picotees  are  also  much  disfigured 
by  it.  As  soon  as  the  plants  can  be  taken  into  the  greenhouse 
and  smoked  the  insects  are  killed.  It  is  always  more  frequent 
upon  pot  plants  than  upon  those  grown  in  the  open  garden. 

Marguerite  Carnations.— A  modern  race,  the  result  ap- 
parently of  crossing  an  early  flowering  type  with  the  Indian 
Pink  (Dianthus  chinensis\  The  varieties  are  practically  annuals, 
though  in  some  seasons  they  have  a  biennial  character.  The 
plants  flower  in  about  four  months  from  the  time  of  seed 
sowing.  Sow  in  heat  in  March  and  the  seedlings  will  soon 
be  ready  for  potting  into  2j-inch  pots.  When  sufficiently 
rooted,  transfer  to  a  slightly  larger  size,  and  use  a  rich  gritty 
soil.  At  the  end  of  May  plant  them  out.  They  may  also 
be  grown  on  in  pots.  The  flowers  are  very  pretty  in  colour, 
fragrant,  and  generally  quite  double.  It  is  a  race  worthy  of 
the  beginner's  care,  and  the  seed  is  reasonable  in  price. 


SWEET   VIOLETS    AND   THEIR 
CULTIVATION 


Outdoor  Violets. — Sweet  Violets  will  grow  and  flower  freely 
in  almost  any  good  garden  soil,  and  that  which  will  pro- 
duce good  vegetables  will  be  found  equally  suitable  for  the 
growth  of  Violets.  In  preparing  the  bed  or  border  to  receive 
the  plants  do  not  charge  the  soil  with  a  mass  of  rank  manure, 
as  this  in  all  probability  would  lead  to  much  leaf  growth  and 
few  flowers,  the  latter  being  in  small  proportion  to  the  foliage. 
Those  who  have  a  light;  hungry  soil  to  deal  with  might  im- 
prove by  digging  in  some  thoroughly  decayed  cow  manure. 
This  while  feeding  the  roots  would  also  tend  to  keep  the 
ground  cool  and  moist  during  summer,  no  small  feature  in 
successful  Violet  culture.  The  Violet  does  not  grow  naturally 
in  a  place  where  rank  manure  prevails ;  the  plants  require 
rather  shade  and  moisture,  and  a  soil  rich  in  humus,  viz.  the 
accumulation  of  decaying  leaves  for  many  years.  A  free 
addition  of  leaf-mould  is  an  advantage,  especially  to  heavy 
soils  that  are  inclined  to  bake  and  then  crack  under  the  influ- 
ence of  the  sun.  The  presence  of  decayed  leaves  in  the 
ground  would  prevent  this,  while  the  roots  would  revel  in 
what  is  naturally  their  chief  rooting  medium. 

Some  growers  are  so  situated  that  they  find  it  is  difficult 
to  secure  either  cow  manure  or  leaf-mould,  but  the  Violet  is 
not  particular,  thriving  almost  as  well  when  the  site  is  dressed 
with  what  we  may  term  a  mixed  compost.  The  ordinary 
rubbish  heap  contains  more  valuable  plant  food  than  many 
imagine,  especially  after  all  the  nondescript  material  has  gone 
through  a  process  of  decay,  the  germinating  power  of  the  seed 
of  weeds  destroyed,  and  the  whole  turned  and  well  mixed.  A 
good  heap  of  such  compost  may  be  used  with  advantage  for 
most  flowers,  and  none  would  appreciate  it  better  than  Violets. 
Of  other  suitable  dressing  mention  might  be  made  of  spent 
mushroom  dung  or  the  remains  of  an  old  hot-bed.  Lime, 
wood  ashes,  or  fresh  horse  droppings  should  be  avoided,  as 
these  are  not  moisture-holding  agencies,  therefore  they  are 


SWEET   VIOLETS  135 

not  suitable  for  the  plants  under  notice.  Whatever  dressing 
is  used  should  be  dug  into  the  ground  deeply  some  time  before 
the  plants  are  put  out. 

Position  of  Beds. — In  summer  while  the  plants  are  making 
their  growth  a  shady  spot  is  best,  or  partially  so,  as  the 
foliage,  being  so  liable  to  the  attacks  of  red  spider,  is  more 
likely  to  become  infested  in  a  hot,  dry  position  than  if  the 
plants  are  grown  in  a  cool  and  shady  one.  North  or  east 
borders  should  be  selected,  or  the  shady  side  of  a  hedge, 
between  fruit  trees  and  bushes,  or  any  position  where  the 
plants  will  receive  shade  during  the  heat  of  summer.  In 
such  places,  too,  the  plants  often  produce  an  abundance  of 
flowers  in  autumn,  and  give  a  wealth  of  bloom  in  spring ;  but 
to  maintain  a  continuous  supply  throughout  the  winter  the 
plants  must  be  lifted  in  September  and  planted  in  the  warmest 
and  most  sunny  spot  in  the  garden,  such  as  at  the  foot  of  a 
south  wall,  or  in  frames.  Thus  while  the  plants  require  shade 
and  moisture  during  summer,  all  the  sun  possible  should 
reach  them  throughout  the  winter  months. 

Raising  Young  Plants.— Violets  should  be  propagated  annu- 
ally. It  is  natural  for  the  plants  to  increase  rapidly,  the  same 
as  the  strawberry,  by  means  of  runners.  When  strawberry 
plants  grow  at  will,  the  beds  the  second  year  are  one  mass  of 
foliage  crowded  together,  so  thickly  do  the  runners  appear  and 
spread,  and  there  is  little  or  no  fruit.  So  it  is  with  Violets, 
and  instead  of  the  beds  being  an  entangled  mass  of  side  shoots, 
each  plant  should  be  grown  separately  and  quite  a  foot  or 
more  apart.  Then  by  nipping  off  the  runners  during  summer 
strong  individual  crowns  or  clumps  are  formed,  which  not 
only  produce  fine  flowers  abundantly  and  on  long  stems,  but 
which  are  more  valuable  for  arrangement  when  cut.  A  limited 
number  of  the  plants,  however,  should  be  reserved  for  stock 
purposes,  allowing  these  to  form  runners,  which  become  rooted 
in  the  ground.  The  desired  number  should  be  severed  from 
the  parent  plants,  with  a  lot  of  roots  attached,  and  transplanted 
in  properly  prepared  beds.  If  these  are  to  flower  in  the  open, 
plant  fifteen  inches  apart  each  way.  Water  and  syringe 
frequently  if  the  weather  is  dry  after  planting.  Keep  the  soil 
hoed,  and  then  they  will  soon  become  established. 

New  plantations  should  be  made  in  autumn  for  the  follow- 
ing reasons  :  First,  the  plants  are  more  easily  and  quickly 
established  in  September  than  is  possible  say  in  March,  when 
there  are  often  trying  winds  and  a  bright  sun.  Then,  again,  the 
plants  should  be  in  full  flower  in  the  latter  month,  and  one  is 
reluctant  to  disturb  them  for  increasing  the  stock  ;  while  if 


136  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

propagation  be  delayed  until  after  the  flowering  period,  the 
season  is  too  far  advanced,  and  the  weather  generally  too  hot 
for  the  divisions  or  offsets  to  make  any  progress,  and  they 
either  remain  stunted  during  the  summer,  or,  what  is  worse, 
many  may  fail  to  grow  at  all.  Some  growers  simply  pull  the 
old  plants  to  pieces  in  spring,  and  dibble  out  the  divisions. 
Many  of  these  have  hard  woody  stems  and  few  fibres,  and 
unless  the  weather  is  mild  and  showery  such  divisions  fail  to 
start.  How  much  better  then  must  it  be  to  have  a  reserve  of 
young,  clean,  and  well-rooted  autumn-struck  plants.  If  it  is 
necessary  to  transplant  these  in  spring  there  will  be  no  risk,  as 
each  plant  can  be  lifted  with  a  good  ball  of  earth,  and  they 
begin  to  grow  at  once  in  their  new  quarters.  Such  young 
stock  would  probably  show  flower  buds,  but  these  should 
be  pinched  out,  as  the  established  beds  would  furnish  the 
supply.  If,  after  planting,  a  slight  mulch  of  decayed  manure 
could  be  spread  around  the  plants  so  much  the  better,  as 
subsequent  rains  would  carry  the  manurial  properties  down 
to  the  roots,  and  the  residue  on  the  surface  would  greatly 
assist  to  keep  the  ground  cool  and  moist  during  a  hot  and  dry 
summer.  During  the  summer  encourage  leaf  growth  free 
from  red  spider.  Keep  the  runners  picked  off  and  the  ground 
between  the  plants  free  from  weeds.  Treated  in  this  way 
the  plants  will  not  fail  to  give  a  wealth  of  bloom  in  due 
season. 

Violets  in  Frames  for  Winter. — However  good  the  summer 
treatment  may  have  been,  or  how  strong  the  plants  may  be 
by  autumn,  a  continuous  supply  of  bloom  throughout  the 
winter  cannot  be  maintained  without  some  protection.  Tem- 
porary frames  may  be  placed  over  the  beds,  but  then  the 
shady  position  the  plants  occupied  during  the  summer  would 
be  against  free-flowering  throughout  a  season  of  dull  short 
days.  Therefore,  the  plants  should  be  removed  to  a  more 
sunny  one  and  planted  in  shallow  frames — an  ordinary  port- 
able frame,  such  as  is  generally  used  for  growing  cucumbers 
in  during  the  summer ;  indeed,  a  bed  that  has  been  used  for 
this  purpose  requires  little  alteration  to  receive  the  Violet 
plants.  The  hillocks  need  only  be  levelled  down,  and  the  soil 
trodden  somewhat  firmly  and  the  Violet  plants  put  out  say 
one  foot  apart.  Of  course,  we  are  supposing  that  the  soil  in 
the  frame  will  not  be  more  than  eighteen  inches  from  the 
glass.  The  nearer  the  plants  can  be  brought  up  to  the  glass 
the  better,  so  that  every  ray  of  sunshine  reaches  them.  The 
frame,  too,  should  have  a  sharp  pitch  and  face  south.  This 
will  allow  of  rain  or  snow  passing  off  quickly,  and  then  there 


SWEET   VIOLETS  137 

is  less  fear  of  the  foliage  suffering  from  damp  or  mildew. 
The  Violet  is  hardy,  and  resents  fire  heat ;  protection  from 
damp  and  severe  frost  is  all  that  is  needed ;  and  when  severe 
weather  is  anticipated,  pack  leaves,  bracken,  straw,  or  stable 
litter  round  the  sides  of  the  frame,  and  cover  the  lights  with 
double  mats  to  keep  out  frost,  and  the  plants  are  more  likely 
to  succeed  in  such  quarters  than  in  heated  brick  pits. 

The  plants  should  be  exposed  fully  whenever  the  weather 
permits.  Even  in  wet  weather  tilt  the  lights  well  at  the  back, 
harsh  winds,  frost,  and  heavy  rains  being  guarded  against, 
and  ventilation  afforded  accordingly.  These  are  the  simple 
lines  upon  which  to  work,  and  by  getting  the  plants  placed 
in  the  frames  the  first  or  second  week  in  September,  flowers 
may  be  expected  in  October,  and  by  having  several  varieties 
a  succession  of  bloom  is  maintained  until  the  end  of  April. 

The  best  Varieties  for  the  open  are  undoubtedly  the  single 
ones,  though  the  double  Marie  Louise  and  Lady  Hume  Camp- 
bell might  be  included  in  the  collection.  Among  the  single 
varieties  mention  must  be  made  of  one  very  beautiful  single 
violet,  it  is  undoubtedly  the  best,  viz.  Princess  of  Wales.  It 
grows  very  strongly,  and  should  be  allowed  plenty  of  space 
for  the  large  leaves  to  develop.  The  flowers  are  also  very 
large  and  borne  on  long  stems  ;  when  cut  they  can  be  used 
with  greater  taste  than  is  generally  seen  in  the  arrangement 
of  cut  Violets.  Victoria  Regina  is  an  old  favourite,  and  with 
the  blue  La  France  one  need  not  seek  further  in  forming  a 
collection.  With  the  doubles,  many  amateurs  call  all  these 
the  Neapolitan,  but  the  true  variety  has  pale  lavender-coloured 
blooms  with  a  white  centre.  They  are  very  fragrant  and 
pleasing,  and  appear  freely  in  frames  during  the  winter, 
but  they  have  rather  short  stems.  We  rely  chiefly  on  Marie 
Louise,  rich  lavender  mauve  blue,  with  a  white  eye,  a  general 
favourite,  which  flowers  continuously  until  spring.  Then  there 
is  that  beautiful  late  variety,  Lady  Hume  Campbell,  which 
makes  a  good  succession,  and  so  prolongs  the  season  of  Sweet 
Violets,  not  perhaps  to  the  extent  many  would  wish,  but 
certainly  over  a  period  that  it  is  possible  to  induce  the  plant 
to  bring  forth  those  deliciously  scented  flowers  of  which  we 
never  tire.  Comte  de  Brazza  is  a  double  white  variety  that 
is  much  appreciated,  but  it  is  not  easy  to  cultivate. 


THE  ROCK  AND  WATER  GARDEN 


ROCK-GARDENS  have  of  late  years  become  increasingly 
popular  in  the  British  Isles,  and  deservedly  so,  since  they 
give  opportunities  for  appreciating  the  beauties  of  number- 
less Alpine  plants  within  a  limited  space,  while  one  of  their 
chief  merits,  from  the  amateur's  point  of  view,  lies  in  the  fact 
that  the  proprietor,  if  he  has  a  fair  knowledge  of  the  elements 
of  gardening,  is  enabled  to  do  all  necessary  work  with  his  own 
hands.  The  plants  may  be  attended  to  while  he  stands  on  a 
stony  pathway  or  rock  steps,  instead  of  upon  the  moist  earth 
of  the  mixed  border.  In  dividing  and  planting  the  porous 
earth  scarcely  soils  the  fingers,  and  stray  weeds  may  be  re- 
moved by  the  feeblest  hands.  The  rock-garden,  if  thought- 
fully planned,  offers,  with  its  varied  exposures  and  elevations, 
a  congenial  home  to  a  large  assortment  of  charming  flowering 
plants  that  will  paint  the  ledges  and  crannies  with  bright 
colour  from  the  early  days  of  spring  until  past  midsummer. 
In  mild  seasons  the  Arabis  spreads  its  white  veil  over  the 
rock-face  in  the  first  days  of  March,  followed  by  the  Aubrie- 
tias,  purple,  crimson,  and  blue-grey,  the  dwarf  Phloxes, 
Mountain  Pinks,  brilliant  Sun  Roses  (Helianthemum),  and  a 
host  of  other  lovely  things  that  provide  a  succession  of  bright 
colours  through  a  long  period. 

Much,  however,  depends  on  the  formation  of  the  rock- 
garden,  and  in  this,  as  in  other  cases,  there  is  a  right  and  a 
wrong  way  of  going  to  work.  Unfortunately,  in  the  majority 
of  instances,  the  latter  method,  or  want  of  method,  has  been 
followed,  as  may  be  seen  from  a  casual  inspection  of  the 
numberless  so-called  "rockeries"  that  deface  villa  gardens 
and  others  throughout  the  length  and  breadth  of  the  land. 
The  constructors  of  such  abominations  appear  to  have  been 
utterly  ignorant  of  the  requirements  of  the  plants  destined  to 
occupy  these  sites.  In  many  cases  these  "rockeries"  convey 
the  impression  that  a  cartload  of  rough  stones  or  clinkers  has 
been  shot  out  upon  a  heap  of  soil ;  in  others  flat  stones  are 
embedded  in  pairs  at  right  angles  to  each  other,  in  almost  per- 
pendicular banks,  each  pair  enclosing  a  triangle  of  soil,  which 

138 


THE   ROCK   AND   WATER   GARDEN      139 

soon  becomes  parched  by  the  sun  ;  while  there  are  yet  others, 
whose  designers  have  evidently  spared  no  pains  or  expense  to 
produce  a  masterpiece  of  art,  with  the  result  that  their  rock- 
gardens  must  remain  till  the  end  of  time  places  of  rocks,  and 
not  of  flowers. 

In  Forming  a  Rock-Garden  it  must  be  borne  in  mind  that 
the  object  in  view  is  to  grow  beautiful  plants,  and  to  display 
to  the  best  advantage,  amid  appropriate  surroundings  and  in 
robust  health,  the  flowers  that  enamel  the  rugged  Alpine 
slopes,  and  streak  the  creviced  crags  with  colour.  The  mission 
of  the  rocks  is  to  afford  congenial  crannies  for  the  roots  to 
explore,  and  to  provide  surfaces  for  trailing  growths  to  veil 
with  greenery  and  blossom.  They  are  there  to  act  as  a  natural 
setting  for  the  flowers,  which  should  spread  in  tinted  breadths 
over  the  spaces  as  freely  as  on  their  native  ledges.  The 
nearer  Nature  can  be  approached  the  more  natural  will  be 
the  effect,  and  rocks  should  therefore  emerge  from  the  soil 
in  such  a  manner  as  to  give  the  effect  of  an  outcrop  of 
the  living  rock  from  a  mountain  side.  Where  rock-masses 
are  built  by  placing  stones  against  one  another,  either  in 
a  horizontal  or  sloping  position,  those  having  flat  surfaces 
should  be  used  in  order  that  the  form  of  natural  rock- 
stratification  may  be  presented  (see  illustrations).  An  open 
position,  i.e.  one  that  is  not  unduly  shaded  by  buildings, 
or  in  the  least  overhung  by  trees,  must  be  selected  for  the 
rock-garden.  On  no  account  should  cement  be  used  in  the 
rock-garden,  but  all  fissures  and  seams  between  stones  should 
be  crammed  with  soil,  great  care  being  taken  that  no  vacuum 
exists  between  the  rock-faces.  Should  these  occur,  losses  are 
certain  to  ensue  through  the  dry  air  entering  the  crevices  and 
parching  the  roots.  It  is  well  to  excavate,  where  the  rock- 
garden  is  to  be  formed,  to  a  depth  of  eighteen  inches,  in 
order  that  thorough  drainage  may  be  ensured,  since  stagnant 
moisture  at  the  root  is  fatal  to  many  Alpines.  A  depth  of 
fully  three  feet  of  soil  should  be  provided,  as  many  rock 
plants  send  their  roots  downwards  to  some  distance  between 
the  masses  of  stone,  where  they  remain  cool  and  moist  during 
the  hottest  weather,  while  foliage  and  flower  enjoy  the  full 
benefit  of  the  sunshine.  Sandy  loam  mixed  with  some  peat, 
to  which  a  good  proportion  of  sandstone  chips  and  grit  has 
been  added,  will  be  found  suitable  for  the  majority  of  rock 
plants.  Some,  however,  prefer  peat,  while  others  like  a 
calcareous  soil,  in  which  case  broken  limestone  should  take 
the  place  of  sandstone.  The  mixture  of  stones  and  grit  with 
the  soil  is  a  great  help  to  alpines,  as  it  prevents  rapid  evapora- 


1 40  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

tion.  It  is  generally  best  to  use  country  stone — that  is,  stone 
easily  procurable  in  the  locality — in  the  construction  of  the 
rock-garden,  unless  the  stone  be  of  a  nature  likely  to  crumble 
away.  No  spar  or  carved  stonework  should  be  employed, 
while  old  tree  roots  should  be  rigorously  excluded,  as  these 
breed  fungi.  Simple  paths  only  are  necessary  in  the  rock- 
garden. 

Here  and  there  along  the  irregular  edges,  Sea  Pinks 
(Anneria),  Sedums,  Saxifrages,  Corydalis,  and  other  plants, 
throwing  out  into  the  walk,  will  create  an  informal  verge, 
while  in  the  chinks  of  rough  rock-steps  the  Erinus  alpinus 
will  blossom  freely,  and  Arenaria  balearica  spangle  the  per- 
pendicular stone  faces  at  the  side  with  countless  tiny  white 
blossoms.  Some  plants,  such  as  Ramondia-pyrenaica,  prefer 
shade,  while  others  delight  in  the  fullest  sunshine,  and  for 
each  class  sites  are  readily  provided  in  the  well-arranged 
rock-garden.  In  the  lowest  level  a  bog  bed  may  be  formed 
where  hardy  Cypripediums,  Trilliums,  and  other  moisture- 
loving  plants  will  flourish.  Running  water,  though  by  no 
means  a  necessity,  adds  much  to  the  charm  of  such  a  garden, 
and  where  this  is  procurable  a  streamlet,  falling  from  the 
higher  to  the  lower  levels  by  a  series  of  cascades,  passing  here 
over  rocky  slabs  and  there  beneath  overhanging  outcrops  of 
stone,  and  entering  at  length  an  informal  rock  basin  where  the 
hardy  Water-lilies  flower,  produces  a  pretty  effect.  The  sur- 
roundings of  the  ideal  rock-garden  should  be  picturesque,  and 
it  therefore  follows  that  the  most  perfect  is  one  that  is  not 
overlooked  by  houses  or  buildings.  Such  a  site  is,  however, 
out  of  the  question  in  the  majority  of  small  gardens,  in  which 
the  rock  plants  will  flower  as  profusely  as  when  provided  with 
a  less  formal  environment.  No  trees  should  overhang  the 
rock-garden,  but  the  shelter  of  a  belt  of  shrubs,  planted  at  a 
sufficient  distance  to  preclude  their  roots  robbing  the  soil,  is  a 
decided  advantage.  The  selection  of  plants  for  the  embellish- 
ment of  the  rock-garden  is  largely  a  matter  of  taste,  but  the 
following  list  of  fifty,  compiled  by  Mr.  S.  Arnott  for  The 
Garden,  will  serve  as  a  good  guide. 


THE   FIFTY  BEST  ALPINES  FOR  SMALL  GARDENS 

It  requires  a  considerable  amount  of  temerity  to  submit  a 
list  of  fifty  alpines,  and  to  assert  that  they  are  the  best  fifty  for 
a  small  garden.  Criticisms,  some  of  them  doubtless  well 
founded,  will  arise,  but  it  must  be  remembered  that  several 


THE   ROCK   AND   WATER   GARDEN       141 


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1 42  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

considerations  have  had  to  be  taken  into  account.  In  a  small 
garden  not  only  is  the  space  limited,  but  an  effort  has  to  be 
made  to  prolong  the  display  during  as  much  of  the  year  as 
possible,  and  a  representation  of  the  various  classes  of  plants 
should  also  be  included.  Then,  while  the  easiest  subjects 
need  not  always  be  included,  it  is  necessary  to  confine  our- 
selves to  those  which  are  not  among  the  really  troublesome 
flowers.  Most  of  the  strongest  growers  are  omitted,  but 
Aubrietias,  Phloxes,  and  Arenaria  montana  cannot  be  banished 
altogether.  Exception  may  well  be  taken  to  the  small  selec- 
tion of  certain  plants  given  here,  but  this  is  due  to  the  neces- 
sity of  affording  as  much  variety  as  possible.  Unless  the 
owner  of  the  garden  is  obsessed  with  his  fancy  for  certain 
plants,  he  will  be  well  advised  not  to  make  a  collection  of, 
say,  Saxifrages,  worthy  though  these  are  of  our  full  considera- 
tion, but  to  cultivate  alpines  giving  a  more  extended  period 
of  bloom. 

It  will  be  observed  that  a  few  bulbs  are  named,  though 
the  list  of  these  might  be  greatly  extended.  For  various 
reasons  shrubs,  with  the  exception  of  one  or  two,  have  been 
omitted.  These  and  other  sins  of  omission  are  due  to  reasons 
which  seemed  to  the  writer  to  be  too  powerful  to  ignore. 
It  may  be  added  with  respect  to  the  cultural  notes  and  other 
information  that  sandy  loam  will  answer  for  most  of  the 
plants  named.  Some  like  lime,  but  all  will  do  without  it.  In 
conclusion,  it  may  be  said  that  the  list  is  submitted  in  no 
spirit  of  self-sufficiency,  although  it  is  founded  on  an  actual 
experience  of  at  least  thirty  years  in  growing  alpines  in  the 
rock-garden.  This  really  adds  to  one's  diffidence  in  furnish- 
ing it,  owing  to  the  full  recognition  of  its  many  omissions — 
omissions  which  may  to  some  appear  unpardonable  offences 
against  their  favourites.  See  also  pages  156  and  550. 


PROTECTING   ALPINES  AGAINST  WIND  AND 

RAIN 

A  very  effectual,  inexpensive,  and  rapidly-arranged  "pro- 
tection "  for  delicate  alpines  is  made  as  follows,  and  it  has 
the  further  advantage  of  cutting  off  the  minimum  of  light, 
being  readily  adapted  to  various  sizes,  such  as  single 
plants,  or  clumps,  and  so  useful  for  winter  Crocuses,  early 
Narcissi,  &c.,  in  the  rock  garden.  Moreover,  while  it  is  rigid, 
it  is  capable  of  giving  sufficiently  to  render  a  good  account 


THE   ROCK   AND  WATER   GARDEN      143 

of  itself  in  windy  weather.  All  that  is  needed  to  protect,  say, 
a  clump  of  a  dozen  Crocus  Imperati  flowers  from  wind  and 
rain  are  four  pieces  of  glass,  each  4  inches  by  8  inches,  one 
piece  10  inches  by  10  inches,  and  twelve  pieces  of  wire  about 
8  inches  long  and  not  less  than  one-sixteenth  of  an  inch 
thick.  Bend  eight  of  the  wires  like  A  in  the  accompanying 
illustration,  now  hold  one  of  the  strips  of  glass  so  as  to  form 
one  side  of  a  square  about  the  clump  of  blossoms,  press  the 
lower  edge  gently  into  the  soil  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch 
deep,  then  put  in  close  beside  it  and  about  an  inch  from  one 
end  one  of  the  A  wires  ;  press  this  down  till  the  hook  engages 
over  the  top  edge.  Then  do  the  same  at  the  other  end  of 
this  strip,  taking  care  to  place  this  second  wire  on  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  glass  to  that  against  which  the  first  one  is. 
Do  likewise  with  each  of  the  four  strips  of  glass,  and  a  rect- 
angular box  will  have  been  formed  quite  close  enough  at 
the  corners  to  keep  off  any  damaging  wind.  All  that  now 
has  to  be  done  is  to  bend  ithe  remaining  four  wires,  as  B 
in  the  illustration,  and  to  put  two  in  an  inch  or  so  from  one 
side  of  the  glass  box  and  similarly  two  in  at  the  other  side, 
and  into  these  wire  clips  the  piece  of  glass  10  inches  by  10 
inches  can  be  sprung.  If  the  soil  or  a  small  stone  is  then 
firmly  pressed  against  the  four  wire  supports,  the  glass  roof 
will  be  quite  safe  during  the  stormiest  weather.  When  this 
roof  glass  is  in  position,  it  can  with  a  steady  pressure  be 
brought  down  until  it  is  as  much  above  the  sides  of  the  glass 
box  as  seems  desirable  to  give  sufficient  ventilation,  and  yet  not 
allow  too  much  wind  to  enter.  The  size  of  the  roof  glass  may 
be  increased  if  the  ventilation  space  is  to  be  more  than  three- 
quarters  of  an  inch,  so  that  it  may  spread  out  far  enough 
to  keep  out  driving  rain.  It  is  well  to  let  one  end  of  this 

§lass  be  lower  than  the  other,  so  as  to  rapidly  drain  off  all 
irt  and  wet.  If  the  height  of  the  flowers  necessitates  wider 
strips  of  glass  than  4  inches,  it  may,  in  exposed  places,  be 
advisable  to  put  a  turn  or  two  of  flower  wire  round  the  glass 
box  when  formed,  as  the  extra  size  will  offer  more  surface 
for  the  wind  to  act  upon  ;  but  this  has  never  been  a  necessity 
with  me. 

For  plants  like  Androsaces  and  all  those  requiring  a  dry 
crown  during  winter,  the  roof  glass  and  B  wires  answer 
admirably,  provided  the  glass  is  sufficiently  larger  than  the 
plant  to  intercept  driving  rain,  and  I  would  recommend 
that  the  sides  be  used  only  for  flowering  plants,  the  same 
to  be  removed  as  soon  as  the  blossoms  are  over.  I  have 
used  these  roof  glasses  for  several  years,  and  have  never 


i44  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

yet  had  one  dislodged  by  wind,  while  their  construction 
permits  a  current  of  air  to  pass  over  the  plants  at  all  times 
and  so  lessens  the  liability  to  mildew.  To  remove  the  whole 
thing  is  the  work  of  a  moment,  and  if  galvanised  wire  is 
employed,  the  supports  last  for  several  years.  Another  ad- 
vantage is  the  compact  way  these  glasses  and  wires  can  be 
stored  during  the  summer,  a  hundred  going  safely  into  a 
small  wooden  case — a  matter  of  no  small  moment  to  the 
average  gardener,  who  has  little  spare  room.  Of  course, 
an  occasional  rub  with  a  wet  cloth  or  leather  is  advisable 
to  keep  the  roof  glasses  clean,  especially  after  fog.  After 
experiencing  the  difficulties  of  a  bell-glass  partly  raised,  or 
the  cumbersome  and  ugly  hand-light,  I  feel  sure  that  other 
gardeners  will  appreciate  this  simple  form  of  protecting  their 
especial  treasures  through  our  trying  winters. 


ROCK-GARDEN    PLANTS  THAT   FLOWER   IN 
EARLY  AUTUMN 

Everything — be  it  Rose,  or  alpine  plant,  or  what  you  will 
— -has  its  season,  and  when  that  is  past,  when  the  fullness  of 
the  beauty  is  gone,  what  remains,  welcome  though  it  be,  con- 
stitutes but  fractional  parts  of  the  greater  whole  we  remember 
so  well.  Of  no  section  of  plants  is  this  more  true  than  that 
we  know  as  alpine,  and  which  inclines  to  yield  of  its  fuller 
wealth  of  beauty  and  variety  before  the  year  has  more  than 
half  run  its  course.  Those  that  come  to  us  after  that  time, 
despite  their  individual  charms,  are  but  few  and  far  between, 
disjointed  members,  as  it  were,  of  a  great  flowering  chain  that 
had  remained  unbroken  for  months. 

The  passing  of  June,  however,  is  usually  the  signal  for  the 
snapping  of  the  last  link  in  the  chain,  and  though  by  that 
time  alpinists  should  have  had  a  good  innings,  yet  they  appear 
never  to  be  quite  satisfied — to  be  wishful  for  more  of  the 
wealth  of  spring,  even  amid  the  breath  of  parched  July  or 
even  later.  That  this  is  the  condition  of  things  existing  in 
most  rock-gardens  at  the  time  indicated  few  will  attempt  to 
gainsay,  though  it  is  a  moot  question,  I  think,  whether  the 
fault  is  not  a  little  on  the  side  of  the  planter,  who,  encourag- 
ing the  greater  flower  wealth  of  spring  and  early  summer, 
discourages — if  all  unwittingly — the  lesser  wealth  that  follows 
by  and  by. 

In  the  earlier  months  of  the  year  we  see  the  incomparable 


THE    ROCK   AND   WATER   GARDEN      145 

flower  pictures  of  alpine  Phlox,  Aubrietia,  Dianthus,  Can- 
dytuft, and  so  on  ;  but  is  there  one  among  the  number  to 
surpass  a  spreading,  well-flowered  mass  of  the  rosy  pink 
Convolvulus  althaeoides  of  July  ?  But  we  do  not  see  it,  or 
certainly  only  rarely,  and  then  not  always  in  good  condition. 
It  may  be — indeed  is,  probably,  that  our  rock-gardens  are  not 
big  enough  for  all — not  big  enough  to  provide  representative 
pictures  of  all  that  is  good  ;  hence  the  comparative  rarity  of 
some.  And  there  are  Campanulas,  too — one  might  almost 
enumerate  a  dozen  such — Zoysii,  Tymonsii,  Garganica  and  its 
forms,  Fragilis,  Isophylla  and  its  varieties  (hardy  enough  and 
perennial  enough  if  planted  in  chinks  of  rock  instead  of  the 
richer  soil  in  the  pockets),  Stansfieldii,  White  Star,  Profusion,  to 
say  nothing  of  the  later-flowering  varieties  of  the  turbinate 
group — which  are  worthy  of  a  little  more  thought  from  those 
who  would  embrace  the  longest  possible  season  of  flowering. 
Then  there  is  the  wild  C.  rotundifolia,  or  Harebell,  a  charm- 
ing plant  that  is  worthy  of  inclusion  in  the  best  rock-gardens 
where  flowers  are  required  during  July  and  August. 

In  not  a  few  instances  the  owners  of  large  gardens  are 
absent  from  home  for  weeks  after  midsummer,  when  but 
little  encouragement  is  given  to  subjects  flowering  after  that 
time.  These  and  other  things  might  readily  constitute  con- 
tributory causes  for  the  absence  of  some  plants  and  the  un- 
representative display  of  others  during  some  weeks  of  the 
latter  part  of  summer.  What  is  needed  most  of  all,  perhaps, 
is  a  rock-garden  on  a  more  representative  plan  planted  with 
a  view  to  do  justice  to  all,  rather  than,  as  is  often  the  case,  to 
permit  the  free-flowering  and  showy  to  predominate,  to  the 
exclusion  of  much  else  that  is  good  or  even  more  worthy.  In 
private  gardens,  naturally,  the  season  of  greater  gaiety  is  at 
the  direction  or  wish  of  the  owner,  while  at  Kew  or  at  Wisley, 
whither  gardeners  and  others  go  for  inspiration  and  education, 
the  idea  of  more  representative  planting,  as  opposed  to 
display  work  covering  shorter  periods  of  time,  might  reason- 
ably receive  studious  thought. 

In  certain  directions  late-flowering  alpines  are  asked  for 
— almost  clamoured  for — hence  there  is  need  to  look  around 
to  see  what  is  to  be  had.  Each  year,  too,  is  giving  evidences 
anew  that  the  supplies  are  not  exhausted  ;  and  when  in  a 
single  season  such  good  things  as  Astilbe  simplicifoliay  Lysi- 
machia  Henryii,  and  Wahlenbergia  vincczflora — plants  of  un- 
doubted merit  and  utility — may  all  be  added  to  the  lists 
of  late  summer  alpine  flowers,  growers  of  such  things  have 
no  cause  for  repining  and  much  less  for  despair.  At  the 

K 


146  GARDENING   FOR  BEGINNERS 

same  time,  there  are  good  plants  other  than  novelties  or 
reintroductions  meriting  all  consideration,  and  one  recalls 
Zauschneria,  Polygonum  vaccinifolium  (a  rock-draping  mass 
of  this  almost  challenges  description),  Gentiana  septemfida, 
G.  Andrew sii  (good  in  its  unopened  bud  colour),  Sternbergia, 
Crocus,  Cyclamen,  and  others  which  might  profitably  be  used 
to  prolong  the  season  of  flowering  in  this  department.  Just 
what  is  available  and  what  most  useful  are  questions  worth 
pursuing,  while  of  even  greater  moment  is  the  increase  of 
some. 

The  following  are  among  good  things  worthy  of  considera- 
tion :  Campanulus  waldsteiniana,  Zoysii,  Profusion,  Stansfieldii, 
fragilis,  isophylla,  garganica,  Tymonsii,  White  Star  and  rotundi- 
folia  (Harebell),  Cyananthus  lobatus,  Erigeron  mucronatus, 
Polygonums  vaccinifolium,  empetrifolium  and  affine  (Brunonis), 
Lysimachia  Henryi,  Saxifraga  Fortunei,  Zauschneria  calif ornica, 
Gentianas  Andrewsii  and  septemfida,  Sternbergias,  Crocus 
species  in  variety,  Sedum  spurium  in  variety,  Ceratostigma 
plumb  aginoides,  Silene  alpestris,  Mesembryanthemum  uncinatum, 
Androsace  lanuginosa,  Wahlenbergia  vincceflora,  Achilleas  in 
variety,  Ac&nas  and  Eriogonum  umbellatum. 


DWARF  TREES  AND   SHRUBS  FOR   THE   ROCK- 
GARDEN 

The  miniature  trees  that  are  sent  from  China  and  Japan 
are  very  suitable  for  planting  in  the  alpine  garden.  Abies 
excelsa  variety  inverta  is  an  exceedingly  good  plant,  as  it  is 
low-growing.  A.  pygma3a  and  A.  clanbrassiana  are  interesting  ; 
Azalea  rosaeflora  is  excellent,  and  a  batch  of  six  or  twelve 
should  be  massed  according  to  the  amount  of  room  at  dis- 
posal. A.  amcena  and  its  varieties  Brilliant,  Hexe,  Hino- 
degerii,  carminata,  coccinea,  splendens,  and  narcissiflora  are 
all  charming  and  showy.  Rhododendron  ciliatum,  R.  race- 
mosum,  R.  Anthopogon,  R.  intricatum,  R.  ferrugineum,  R.  f. 
album,  R.  hirsutum,  R.  h.  album,  R.  Wilsonii,  and  R.  myrti- 
folium  may  be  planted  as  dot  plants  in  the  interstices  of 
rocks,  where  they  are  exceedingly  beautiful  and  add  much 
enjoyment  to  the  alpines  surrounding.  Plants  of  this  char- 
acter and  nature  require  some  suitable  soil  in  which  to 
become  established,  such  as  peat  and  leaf-soil  with  some 
sand  and  loam,  and  they  must  be  made  very  firm  in  the  soil 
so  that  they  are  not  shaken  by  the  wind.  Berberis  actina- 


V) 


hq 


THE   ROCK   AND   WATER   GARDEN      147 

cant  ha,  B.  Wilsonii,  B.  deflexa,  B.  acuminata,  and  B.  Thun- 
bergii  are  all  useful  and  beautiful.  The  same  may  be  said 
of  Cistus  in  variety,  Cotoneaster  horizontalis •,  C.  microphylla, 
Cupressus  lawsoniana  compacta,  C.  nana  compacta,  and 
Cytisus  in  variety.  Clematis  coccinea  is  charming  when 
allowed  to  fall  over  the  rocks  carelessly.  Daphne  Mezereum, 
D.  Cneorum  major,  D.  blagayana,  Erica  lusitanica  (codo- 
nodes),  E.  carnea,  E.  c.  alba,  and  many  other  varieties  and 
species  must  not  be  overlooked.  Fabiana  imbricata  (a 
beautiful  Erica-like  flower),  Gaultheria  nummularioides, 
Genista  ephedrioides,  G.  Ferox,  G.  hispanica,  G.  horrida,  G. 
procumbens,  G.  triquetra,  Sedum  palustre,  Menziesia  polifolia 
and  alba,  Nandina  domestica,  Juniperus  communis  aurea,  J. 
Sabina,  J.  S.  variegata,  Retinospora  ericoides,  R.  obtusa,  R. 
nana  aurea,  and  Thuiopsis  borealis  nana  compacta  all  are 
suitable.  Veronica  cupressoides  is  admired  both  in  summer 
and  winter.  V.  Hectori  is  another  good  evergreen,  and  as  a 
dot  plant  has  scarcely  any  equal.  V.  Armstrongii  is  also  very 
fine.  Pinus  montana,  P.  monophylla,  P.  Mughus,  and  Taxus 
fastigiata  aurea  compacta  are  all  useful.  Korokea  Cotoneaster 
makes  an  admirable  dot  plant,  and  is  always  interesting, 
especially  when  in  flower ;  it  bears  myriads  of  little  stellate 
yellow  flowers,  and  when  not  in  flower  its  tiny  leaves  with  a 
white  tomentose  covering  are  extremely  pretty.  A  good 
clump  of  Chamcerops  nanus  looks  very  handsome,  and  should 
be  planted  in  the  warmest  position  as  high  up  as  possible, 
with  some  tall  shrubs  at  the  back  to  break  the  wind.  Crino- 
dendron  (Tricuspidarid)  hookerianum  is  very  charming,  and 
should  be  put  in  a  snug  position  in  well-drained  soil  in  which 
some  peat  and  grit  have  been  mixed. 

Desfontainea  spinosa  is  a  very  fascinating  plant  when  in 
bloom,  and  an  interesting  evergreen.  This  should  be  planted 
high  up  and  in  well-drained  soil,  which  should  also  be  very 
firm.  It  sometimes  grows  in  partial  shade  placed  on  the  cold 
side.  Escallonia  langleyensis  does  well,  but  should  be  pruned 
after  flowering  to  keep  it  small.  Mitraria  coccinea  is  a  lovely 
plant  when  carrying  its  bright  scarlet  flowers  in  contrast  to 
its  pretty,  bright,  shining  green  leaves.  This  requires  partial 
shade  and  moist  ground  in  which  some  peat  has  been  worked. 
All  these  dot  plants  must  be  secured  firmly  in  the  soil,  and 
for  the  first  year  water  must  be  given  with  discretion,  espe- 
cially those  planted  on  shallow,  well-drained  soil,  as  in  warm 
nooks  and  bays  they  would  become  baked  if  not  watered 
most  carefully.  Plants  in  such  positions  are  difficult  to  water 
thoroughly  if  allowed  to  become  dust  dry,  as  the  water  runs 


148  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

away  before  getting  to  the  roots.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  lay 
stones  over  the  roots,  and  this  very  much  conserves  the  water 
and  shades  the  roots  in  exposed  places  from  the  hot  sunshine. 


ANNUALS  FOR  THE  ROCK-GARDEN 

A  rock-garden  or  rock-path  is  a  charming  sight  when  well 
furnished.  However,  as  it  is  some  time  before  the  plants  will 
cover  their  allotted  spaces,  during  the  first  year  or  two  one 
must  have  recourse  to  quicker-growing  subjects.  There 
are  so  many  annuals  now,  both  dwarf  and  tall,  which  may  be 
used,  that  they  are  indispensable,  and  we  are  sure,  when 
once  seen,  will  be  looked  for  again.  Many  may  be  sown  in 
the  open,  others  are  best  sown  under  glass  and  afterwards 
transplanted,  and  of  these  latter  we  will  give  a  selection. 
There  are,  first,  the  Ageratums  of  soft  blue,  lavender,  and 
white,  ranging  in  height  from  4  inches  to  18  inches  ;  Abronia 
umbellata  (the  Sand  Verbena),  rosy  pink  and  of  trailing  habit. 
Then  comes  the  annual  Alyssum,  Snow  Carpet  or  procumbens. 
which  should  be  planted  in  good  masses  to  produce  the  best 
effect.  Seed  of  this  may  also  be  sown  where  the  plants  are  to 
bloom.  The  individual  plants  spread  out  very  quickly  and 
remain  in  bloom  a  long  while.  The  flowers  are  very  minute, 
but  produced  in  the  greatest  profusion.  To  go  from  white  to 
scarlet,  there  is  Alonsoa  Warscewiczii  compacta,  which  is  the 
best.  Planted  in  soil  that  is  not  too  rich,  it  will  not  grow  too 
tall,  and  will  flower  more  freely. 

The  next  we  come  to  are  the  Antirrhinums  (Snapdragons) 
of  the  dwarf  and  intermediate  sections.  Though  not  true 
annuals,  they  are  usually  treated  as  such.  They  have  been 
much  improved  as  regards  colour  and  form  of  late  years, 
and  there  is  now  plenty  of  variety.  The  dwarf  forms  may  be 
planted  in  masses  of  one  colour,  and  should  be  given  a  bold 
position,  when  their  beauty  will  be  much  enhanced.  The 
intermediate  varieties,  which  grow  about  eighteen  inches  high, 
may  be  used  in  the  same  way.  The  Antirrhinum  is  not 
particular  as  to  soil,  therefore  may  be  planted  where  more 
fastidious  plants  in  this  respect  would  fail. 

Delphinium  Blue  Butterfly  is  very  pretty,  and  should  be 
sown  early  to  obtain  the  best  results.  This  should  be  given 
good  soil  in  a  position  where  it  will  not  get  too  dry,  and  it 
will  then  present  its  true  character.  It  is  one  of  the  best 
blue-flowered  annuals  we  have,  and  will  flower  over  a  long 


THE   ROCK   AND   WATER   GARDEN       149 

period.  Then  come  Dianthus  chinensis,  or  Indian  Pinks; 
which  are  really  biennials,  but,  if  sown  early  and  treated  as 
annuals,  make  lovely  pieces  of  colour.  Salmon  Queen,  The 
Bride,  laciniatus,  Queen  of  Holland,  and  Eastern  Queen 
are  all  good  varieties  of  different  heights.  The  Nemesia  is 
quite  at  home  in  the  rock-garden.  It  enjoys  plenty  of  sun, 
and  its  roots  should  be  kept  moist  and  allowed  good  soil  to 
grow  in.  The  flowers  are  of  all  shades  of  yellow,  red,  cream, 
pink,  and  white,  and  seen  under  strong  sunlight  are  most 
gorgeous.  There  are  now  some  new  hybrids  of  a  lovely  pale 
blue,  and  another  of  pale  lemon  colour. 

Another  beautiful  little  plant  is  Phacelia  campanularia,  of 
a  lovely  deep  blue.  The  flower  is  something  like  a  blue 
Gentian,  both  in  colour  and  form,  and  produces  a  striking 
effect,  however  planted.  The  foliage  also  turns  a  pretty  shade 
with  age.  The  next  on  the  list  is  the  Portulaca,  a  half-hardy 
annual  especially  suited  for  rockwork  gardens,  and  one  that 
will  thrive  in  a  dry,  sunny  position,  where  it  will  be  seen  at  its 
best.  It  quickly  covers  the  ground,  grows  about  six  inches 
high,  and  the  colours  are  various  shades  of  orange  and 
yellow. 

The  Silenes  are  very  pretty,  and  should  be  sown  in  the 
summer  and  transplanted  to  bloom  in  the  spring.  They  are 
very  dwarf,  seldom  reaching  more  than  6  inches  high,  and 
prefer  soil  not  too  rich  and  an  open  position.  Empress  of 
India  has  crimson  flowers  and  flower-stalks.  Snow  King 
and  pendula  alba  are  two  good  whites,  and  pendula  compacta 
and  Double  Pink  are  two  first-rate  pinks.  The  latter  is  a  very 
showy  plant. 

Although  Statices,  the  next  on  the  list,  are  mostly  perennials, 
there  is  one  exception,  Statice  Suworowi,  a  plant  of  singular 
appearance.  The  foliage  looks  something  like  a  Dandelion 
leaf,  and  the  flower-spikes  are  thrown  up  from  the  centre. 
The  colour  is  rosy  pink,  and  the  individual  blossoms  are  very 
minute,  packed  closely  together  on  stalks  about  eighteen 
inches  high.  It  needs  a  good  depth  of  loamy  soil. 

Sowing  and  Thinning.— We  will  now  name  some  that  may 
be  sown  where  they  are  to  bloom,  and  with  proper  attention 
to  sowing,  thinning  and  keeping  clean  will  produce  equally 
as  good  results  as  those  that  are  raised  under  glass  and 
planted  out.  We  first  mention  the  Pimpernel,  or  Anagallis, 
to  give  it  its  proper  name.  There  are  two  colours,  pale  blue 
with  a  black  blotch  in  the  throat,  and  a  red  brick  shade  with 
the  same  markings.  They  remain  in  bloom  a  long  time, 
especially  if  the  faded  blooms  are  kept  picked  off.  They 


150  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

should  be  given  a  warm,  sunny  position,  or  the  flowers  do 
not  open  well. 

Another  effective  plant  is  Cacalia  coccinea,  the  Tassel  Flower. 
This  grows  about  a  foot  in  height,  and  has  flowers  like  a  double 
Daisy  on  slender  stems.  The  foliage  is  very  luxuriant  and  of 
a  nice  green  shade.  It  is  a  plant  that  is  always  noticed  by 
reason  of  its  very  bright  colour.  Then  come 

The  Candytufts,  which  are  so  free-flowering  and  sweet- 
scented.  There  is  the  White  Spiral,  which  grows  about  a 
foot  high,  and  also  lilac,  purple,  carmine,  crimson  and  cardinal, 
which  are  somewhat  dwarfer.  All  are  very  beautiful,  and 
should  be  sown  in  good-sized  patches  of  one  colour.  Pick 
the  faded  flowers  off,  and  stir  the  soil  occasionally  to  promote 
new  growth. 

Dimorphotheca  aurantiaca  is  a  decided  acquisition.  The 
colour  is  a  rich  orange,  with  a  black  disc,  and  the  flowers  are 
little  affected  by  the  weather,  although  the  plant  is  at  its  best 
when  warm  and  sunny,  and  the  flowers  also  open  better.  The 
various  coloured  hybrids  should  also  be  included.  Another 
pretty  plant  is  lonopsidium  acaule,  the  Violet  Cress,  a  tiny  thing 
covered  with  little  lilac-coloured  blossoms.  It  is  admirable 
for  sowing  in  narrow  crevices  between  the  stones,  and  should 
be  kept  moist  at  the  root,  or  it  is  apt  to  shrivel  up.  It  does 
not  grow  more  than  2  inches  high,  and  does  not  spread  like 
many  dwarf  plants.  Then  come  the  Linarias  or  Toadflax, 
indispensable  little  plants.  Aurea  reticulata  is  crimson  and 
gold,  and  bipartita  splendens  is  purple  and  light  blue.  Both  grow 
about  a  foot  high,  and  should  be  sown  thinly  and  not  thinned 
out  too  much  as  they  are  very  slender  in  growth.  The  blooms 
are  very  small  and  something  like  a  miniature  Antirrhinum. 

Dwarf  Nasturtium  deserves  a  place,  and  is  another  plant 
that  flowers  better  in  soil  that  is  not  too  rich,  and  also  in  a 
dry  season.  Two  or  three  sowings  should  be  made  to  prolong 
the  season.  The  flowers  are  all  shades  of  yellow,  crimson, 
scarlet  and  rose,  and  some  are  spotted  and  veined  with  deeper 
markings.  Some  have  golden  foliage  and  others  are  silver 
variegated,  which  produce  a  fine  effect  even  if  they  never 
flower.  The  next  that  claims  attention  is  the  Nemophila,  a 
most  attractive  plant  when  in  bloom.  The  colours  are  very 
pleasing  and  dainty.  Insignis  is  a  Cambridge  blue ;  /.  alba, 
white  ;  maculata,  white,  with  purple  blotch  ;  and  atroccerulea, 
bright  blue,  with  small  spots.  They  all  grow  from  3  inches  to 
6  inches  high,  and  are  very  hardy.  Two  or  three  sowings  at 
intervals  should  be  made,  as  the  plants  do  not  last  so  long  as 
some  annuals.  They  may  also  be  sown  in  autumn  to  bloom 


THE   ROCK   AND   WATER   GARDEN      151 

the  following  spring.  Saponaria  calabrica  is  an  annual  of  rose 
colour,  and  there  is  also  a  white  form.  Both  are  old  favourites 
with  many.  They  are  both  very  dwarf,  and  may  be  used  in 
the  front  portion  of  the  rockery  in  any  good  soil. 


BULBS  FOR  THE  ROCK-GARDEN 

These  subjects  are  worth  the  attention  of  all  lovers  of  rock 
and  alpine  gardens,  as  their  presence  during  winter  and  spring, 
peeping  up  here  and  there,  forms  a  nice  feature  of  colour,  and 
there  are  many  that  are  extremely  interesting.  The  little 
Narcissus  minimus  ought  to  be  planted  and  grouped  in 
clumps  of  about  a  dozen  in  different  spots ;  one  gets  a  very 
charming  effect.  Sternbergia  lutea  is  a  splendid  mass  of 
colour  in  autumn  ;  then  there  are  Colchicums  in  variety  and 
Cyclamen,  all  in  splendid  flower  and  all  from  bulbs.  The 
Crocus  species  are  exceedingly  interesting,  and  these  should 
be  planted  early,  say  in  September.  Snowdrops  should  also 
be  planted  early  to  be  successful.  All  of  these  are  better  in 
small  clumps.  Ixias  are  hardy  in  sheltered  plots  near  the 
base  of  rocks,  and  are  very  pretty.  Iris  cristata  and  /.  persica 
should  likewise  be  planted  as  soon  as  posible.  These  are 
gems,  and,  dotted  about,  take  but  little  room  and  afford  end- 
less pleasure.  The  slugs  are  very  fond  of  these,  and  must 
be  trapped  as  soon  as  the  growths  are  beginning  to  push 
through.  The  Mariposa  Lily  (Calochortus)  does  very  well  in 
sheltered  nooks  in  fine  soil.  There  are  some  very  brilliant 
colours  among  these,  and  the  flowers  are  large  for  such  small 
bulbs.  Then  we  have  the  Jonquils,  both  double  and  single. 
These  are  very  striking  and  delightfully  fragrant.  There  are 
several  Narcissi  in  addition  to  the  early  one  mentioned  at  the 
commencement  of  these  notes,  and  a  good  one  is  Pallidus 
prcecox,  which  looks  very  charming  popping  up  under  a 
shrub  or  from  behind  a  boulder.  A  few  clumps  of  such 
varieties  as  N.  maximus  of  the  Pyrenees,  Victoria  and  King 
Alfred,  should  be  planted ;  but  these  large  varieties  must 
have  some  good  food,  or  they  fail  to  give  good  results. 
Ordinary  alpine  soil  will  not  be  good  enough.  Narcissus 
cyclamineus  is  very  pretty,  and  should  be  planted  in  several 
positions  to  ensure  succession.  There  are  some  interesting 
hybrids  between  this  and  N.  minimus  which  are  very  pretty. 
N.  triandrus  and  N.  t.  alba  are  both  pleasing,  well  adapted 
for  conspicuous  positions,  and  last  a  considerable  time  in 
flower. 


152  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

Scillas  are  very  charming.  Good  groups  of  these  are 
effective.  Scilla  sibirica  and  5.  s.  alba,  S.  bifolia,  S.  vernay  and 
the  late  variety,  S.  italica,  are  most  useful.  These  do  well  in 
towns  and  smoky  places,  and  endure  many  hardships.  Grape 
Hyacinths  are  also  effective.  The  earliest  is  Muscari  botryoides 
azureus.  M.  botryoides  albus,  M.  b.  cceruleus  Heavenly  Blue, 
and  M.  Heldreichii  are  among  the  best  to  grow.  A  few  of  the 
ordinary  Hyacinths  may  be  used  in  borders  on  the  top  sur- 
rounding, but  not  among  stones  or  rocks.  Anemones  may 
be  largely  used  with  distinct  advantage  and  success.  Among 
the  earliest  to  bloom  is  A.  blanda.  A.  sulpkurea,  A.  Pulsatilla, 
A.  sylvestris,  A.  narcissiflora,  A.  Allenii,  A.fulgens,  A.apennina, 
and  A.  alpina  are  all  beautiful  and  make  a  fine  succession, 
and,  if  there  is  plenty  of  room,  some  St.  Brigid  might  also  be 
planted.  Adonis  amurensis  is  very  showy.  It  has  deep  green 
fern-like  foliage  and  yellow  flowers.  A.  pyrenaica  is  also  a 
fine  type.  A.  amurensis  and  A.  vernalis  flower  in  early  spring, 
and  A.  pyrenaica  in  early  summer.  Chionodoxa  sardensis} 
C.  Lucilice,  and  C.  gigantea  are  all  pretty  and  effective,  and 
should  be  grown  by  everybody.  Leucojums  are  also  very 
handsome,  and  flower  in  spring,  summer,  and  autumn.  These 
are  like  monster  Snowdrops,  and  sometimes  have  stems  2  feet 
long,  which  make  them  valuable  for  furnishing  a  vase  of  lovely 
flowers.  They  grow  in  any  garden  soil.  L.  astivum  is  the 
summer-flowering  variety  ;  the  others  flower  in  early  spring, 
except  L.  autumnalis.  Sanguinaria  canadensis  (Bloodwort),  a 
very  pretty  white  flower,  requires  a  little  protection  in  winter 
— a  covering  of  peat  will  suffice.  When  cut,  red  juice  exudes 
from  the  flower-stem  or  leaf ;  hence  its  name  of  Bloodwort. 

Trillium  grandiflorum,  with  lovely  choice  white  flowers, 
requires  a  moist,  shady,  and  well-drained  position.  It  is  very 
pretty  when  among  ferns  and  alpines  which  are  grown  in 
shady  nooks.  Uvularia  amplexicaulis,  golden  yellow,  after  the 
habit  of  Convallaria  polygonatum,  is  fine  for  cool,  shady  spots. 
All  spring  and  early  summer  flowering  bulbs  are  best  planted 
as  early  as  possible  in  the  autumn. 


HOW   TO    MAKE  A   MORAINE   GARDEN 

Recently  considerable  attention  has  been  given  to  that 
adjunct  of  the  rock-garden,  the  moraine ;  and  where  it  is 
possible  to  devote  the  space  (if  only  a  square  yard  or  two)  in 
some  fully-exposed  position  it  would,  I  think,  be  well  to  pro- 


THE   ROCK   AND   WATER   GARDEN      153 

ceed  without  delay  to  make  the  necessary  alteration.  The 
three  main  factors  to  bear  in  mind  in  this  connection  are 
(i)  ample  provision  for  the  shortest  possible  drainage ;  (2)  a 
copious  supply  of  water  during  the  growing  season  ;  (3)  some 
provision  to  ensure  the  utmost  dryness  of  the  crowns  of  the 
plants  during  the  winter,  coupled  with  comparative  dryness  of 
the  moraine  soil  during  that  time. 

It  is  easy  to  understand  how  our  little  mountain  friends 
obtain  these  conditions  in  their  alpine  homes.  The  heaps  of 
stone  detritus  which  accumulate  at  the  foot  of  a  glacier,  often 
piled  up  at  an  acute  angle,  ensure  ample  drainage,  while  the 
continuous  melting  of  the  ice  and  snow  on  the  slopes  above 
during  the  warm  or  growing  season  not  only  supplies  copious 
volumes  of  ice-cold  water  to  the  little  plants,  but  carries  away 
all  the  finer  parts  of  the  broken  stone  and  so  greatly  adds  to 
the  rapidity  of  drainage.  When  the  falling  temperature 
causes  growth  to  cease,  the  water  supply  is  automatically 
cut  off  by  the  freezing  up  of  the  glacier,  usually  accompanied 
by  heavy  falls  of  dry  snow,  which  effectually  protect  the 
plants  from  any  sudden  change  of  temperature,  should  it 
occur,  while  the  considerable  time  it  takes  for  this  snow 
blanket  to  melt  through  and  expose  the  plants  in  the  follow- 
ing spring  ensures  that  they  come  forth  into  a  year  so  far 
advanced  that  the  likelihood  of  a  check  is  improbable.  Often 
June  is  well  advanced  before  these  high  mountaineers  see  the 
sunlight  after  their  long  winter  sleep.  With  some  care  and 
thought  we  can  do  a  great  deal  to  minimise  the  widely 
different  conditions  which  prevail  in  our  gardens  from  those 
existing  in  the  Alpine  regions.  When  one's  garden  is  situated 
upon  a  comparatively  retentive  soil — and  I  suppose  but  few 
of  us  are  favoured  with  a  coarse  gravel  or  rock  subsoil — the 
best  way  to  proceed  in  making  a  moraine  is,  from  my  own 
experience,  as  follows  : 

Position  for  the  Moraine.— Having  decided  upon  the  posi- 
tion, which  must  be  an  open  one,  and  preferably  where  the 
rock-garden  slopes  gently  up,  dig  into  this  mound  so  as  to 
form  a  trough  about  two  feet  deep,  and  with  the  bottom 
falling  gently  to  one  point,  say,  in  the  front.  Either  brick  up 
the  sides  of  this  compartment  or  build  up  with  stone  or 
concrete,  so  as  to  make  this  "  dish  "  water-tight  to  at  least 
8  inches  from  the  bottom.  At  the  lowest  point  of  the  bottom 
an  outlet  should  be  arranged  which  can  be  easily  opened  or 
closed  from  the  outside.  It  will  be  readily  seen  that  if  this 
bottom  valve  is  closed  and  water  allowed  to  enter  the  com- 
partment, it  will  rise  to  the  depth  of  6  inches  in  the  front 


'54 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


(and  something  less  at  the  back,  owing  to  the  slope  of  the 
bottom),  while  if  the  valve  is  opened,  no  water  whatever  will 
remain  in  it.  Care  should  be  taken  to  carefully  guard  the 
inner  side  of  the  valve,  say,  with  perforated  zinc,  or,  better 
still,  perforated  brass.  The  next  thing  to  do  is  to  put  in 
about  5  inches  or  6  inches  of  broken  stone  or  brick  of  about 
the  size  of  an  orange,  and  on  this  a  layer,  2  inches  thick,  of 
stones,  just  large  enough  to  roughly  cover  over  the  interspaces 


FIG.  14. — Section  showing  construction  01  a  small  Moraine  Garden. 

A,  horizontal  line;  B,  hard-core  foundation;  C,  cement  concrete,  draining  to- 
wards outlet ;  D,  winter  outlet  with  perforated  zinc  cover ;  E,  8-inch  over- 
flow ;  F,  moraine  soil,  upon  small  then  large  rubble  for  drainage ;  G, 
decorative  stones  ;  H,  stone  hiding  tap  of  winter  outlet. 

between  the  lower  "rough  stuff,"  and  so  prevent  finer  soil 
from  choking  up  the  drainage  (see  Fig.  14). 

The  Best  Soil. — Upon  this  intermediate  layer  the  moraine 
soil  proper  should  be  laid,  of  sufficient  thickness  to  entirely 
fill  the  moraine,  and  should  consist  preferably  of  sandstone 
chips  put  through  a  half-inch  or  three-quarter  inch  mesh 
sieve  for  the  lower  part  and  a  quarter-inch  mess  sieve  for  the 
upper.  If  there  are  fine  particles  in  this,  as  there  probably 
will  be,  it  is  advisable  to  put  the  whole  through  an  eighth  of 
an  inch  mesh  sieve  to  get  rid  of  the  dust,  which  so  readily 
clogs  the  drainage.  Just  a  suspicion  of  well-decayed  leaf-soil 
may  be  added  to  the  top  6  inches,  say,  one  part  to  fifteen  of 
stone  chips.  If  the  boundary  walls  of  the  moraine  have  been 
arranged  in  an  irregular  outline  and  have  been  topped  with 


THE   ROCK   AND   WATER   GARDEN      155 

decorative  pieces  of  stone,  the  whole  should  resemble  any 
other  part  of  the  rock-garden,  except  that  the  contents  of  it 
are  more  stony  than  the  rest.  Similar  pieces  of  stone  can 
also  be  inserted  just  into  the  surface  of  the  moraine  to  break 
the  otherwise  flat  expanse,  and  among  these  the  plants  will 
nestle. 

The  Water  Supply. — If  water  is  now  allowed  to  enter  the 
moraine  from  some  diverted  trickle  which  may  already 
decorate  the  rock-garden,  or,  if  not,  is  supplied  by  hand 
every  day  or  so,  fresh  water  will  be  more  or  less  constantly 
passing  beneath  the  roots  of  the  plants  contained  therein  and 
overflowing  at  the  6-inch  level,  and  during  the  growing 
season  this  should  be  the  condition  of  things.  When  the 
autumn  is  with  us,  the  water  supply  may  be  cut  off,  and 
about  the  end  of  October  or  early  November,  dependent 
upon  the  kind  of  weather  at  the  moment,  the  lower  valve 
should  be  opened  and  left  so  until  spring  returns.  It  is  a 
good  plan,  where  possible,  to  let  the  overflow  from  the 
moraine  trickle  down  to  supply  our  bog-bed,  and  thence 
away  or  into  any  little  pool  we  may  have.  To  protect  the 
crowns  of  the  plants  from  overhead  wet,  or  the  dirt  brought 
down  by  fogs,  a  very  simple  contrivance  of  three  pieces  of 
bent  wire  so  placed  as  to  support  a  sheet  of  glass  some 
4  inches  or  5  inches  above  each  clump  serves  admirably, 
and,  if  occasionally  cleaned,  admits  both  light  and  air  and 
so  does  not  "  coddle  "  the  plants  at  all.  The  glass  should  be 
slightly  tilted  to  allow  the  rain  to  drip  off  clear  of  the  plant 
itself.  A  very  fair  substitute  for  broken  sandstone  is  broken 
brick,  but  any  old  mortar  adhering  thereto  should  be  taken 
off  if  it  is  proposed  to  grow  lime-hating  plants. 

The  Best  Plants  for  a  Moraine. — The  following  list  of  moraine 
plants,  by  Mr.  Reginald  Farrer,  should  prove  useful  not  only 
to  the  beginner,  but  also  to  the  expert  cultivator  of  alpines, 
as  Mr.  Farrer  is  a  widely  recognised  authority  on  the  subject. 
Each  moraine,  like  each  gardener,  has  its  special  favourites, 
and  the  pet  results  of  one  moraine  are  not  necessarily  those 
of  its  neighbour  across  the  wall.  Again,  the  moraine  being 
a  very  special  affair,  there  is  no  need  in  this  choice  to  trouble 
about  "  utility  "  plants,  such  as  the  Aizoon  Saxifrages,  which 
will  grow  anywhere.  I  mean  to  allow  myself,  in  fact,  an 
orgy  of  special  treasures,  since  it  is  for  these  that  the  moraine 
exists.  As  to  the  condition  of  this,  let  me  postulate  a  moraine 
of  some  three  parts  chips  to  one  part  good  compost  of  peat, 
leaf-mould,  and  sand  (a  larger  percentage  of  soil  than  I  have 
suggested  hitherto),  watered  by  a  subterranean  perforated  pipe 


iS6 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


some  12  inches  to  15  inches  down,  but  sharply  drained;  for 
more  and  more  do  I  grow  to  distrust  cemented  bottoms, 
unless,  indeed,  your  slope  is  very  specially  rapid  and  your 
climate  of  a  very  specially  Saharan  torridness.  And  in  this 
mixture,  then,  I  will  allow  myself  a  free  hand  in  choice,  and 
advise  my  friends  to  follow  it  without  fear  of  disappointment 
if  they  succeed.  But  it  must  be  remembered  that  my  selec- 
tion is  purely  personal,  haphazard  and  incomplete.  Many 
things  are  omitted  simply  as  untried,  such  as  Dryas  ;  and  my 
own  blank  failure  hitherto  with  most  Gentians  and  Potentilla 
nitida  in  the  moraine  is  very  likely  a  mere  matter  of  condi- 
tions— a  little  soil  the  more  or  some  question  of  treatment — 
though  I  confess  to  doubting  Gentians  as  a  family  for  the 
moraine,  despite  the  fact  that  one  of  my  G.  Clusii  is  now 
wearing  a  beautiful  flower.  But  in  one  place  very  often  I 
think  a  given  plant  enjoys  moraine,  and  yet  refuses  to  put 
up  with  another  apparently  like  it  somewhere  else,  where, 
perhaps,  the  conditions  are  not  precisely  such  as  to  suit  it. 
It  was  some  time  before  any  of  my  moraines  suited  Dianthus 
neglectus,  which  forms  huge,  grassy  masses  in  open  and  rather 
inferior  soil  here. 


Androsace  alpina  (glacialis) 


i      Rose  white  . . 


Date  of 
Flowering. 
May-June     . . , 


A.  priiuiiloidtis  

Pink   

A.  villosa  

3 

Pearly  white 

Anthemis  Aizoon 

White 

Summer 

Asperula  Athoa  
Artemisia  splendens  
Aster  alpinus  
Campanula    alpestris 
(Allionii)                        .     . 

4 
6 
3 

Pink  
Silver  leaves    
Purple   

June  :  

C.  Cenisia  

Electric  blue  .    .  . 

Summer 

C.  excisa 

Violet 

C.  pulla  

| 

C.  Raineri    
C.  Zoysii   

3 

Blue   

„        .... 

Cyanthus  lobatus  
Delphinium  nudicale   
Dianthus  alpinus             .... 

4 
6 

Electric  blue 
Scarlet  
Rich  rose      .   .   . 

June  .  ..'.'  

D.  Arvernensis   
D.  Freynii 

3 

Pink   
Pink  white 

»»    

D.  neglectus    

f> 

Fiery  rose  

D.  Glacialis  

Rose   

D.  sylvestris    

8 

" 

Eritrichium  nanum  

The  blue  of  blues 

Iberis  petraea 

2 

White 

Leontopodium        alpinum 
I  lannel-flower  

6 

Silver  white  

All  the  summer  .  . 

Linaria  alpina    . 

„ 

Violet  and  "'old 

Lithospermum  Gastonii  .... 

Mertensia  primuloides    .... 
Morisia  hypogoea 

4 
6 

Blue    

Blue  to  amethyst 
Yellow 

Summer    
Early  summer 

Myosotis  rupicola            .   . 

Blue  

June 

Papaver  alpinum  

6 

White  to  rose  .... 

All  the  summer  .  . 

Soil. 

Non-calcareous,     soft, 

cool  and  rich 
Ordinary 


Non-calcareous 

Calcareous 

Ordinary 

Calcareous 
Ordinary 

Ordinary     or     non-cal- 
careous 

Non-calcareous 

Ordinary 

Non-calcareous,     rich, 
cool,  and  light 

Ordinary 


Very  calcareous,  nearly 

pure  lime-rubble 
Ordinary,  cool 
Ordinary,  dry 
Ordinary 


THE   ROCK   AND   WATER   GARDEN      157 


Name.                    | 

Petrocallis  pyrenaica  
Primula  intermedia  
P   spectabilis 

['£:     «*«•. 

Whitv  r»ink- 

Date  of 
Flowering. 
June  
April  
April-May    
Summer           .   .  . 

4 
4 
6 

4 

5 
4 
5 
3 

Rosy  lilac  
White    .  .  '"!!  '".'. 

Polemonium       confertum 
niellitum 

White  to  red"!!!! 
White           .  . 

All  the  season     .  . 
June 

Ranunculus  alpestris  
R  glacialis 

R  parnassifolius   
R  Se"uieri 

May    . 

Fe'bruary-March 
June  

Saxifraga  burseriana  magna 
S.  caesia  

S.  Burnatii  ... 

6 
4 
6 
3 

5 
5 

h 

4 
1 

" 

S.  Faldonside  

Yellow  .. 
Red 

March    . 

S.  Grisebachii 

March-April   .... 
Summer    . 

Silene  Elizabethae.  .  . 

Rose  red  
Rose  pink  

S.  Hookeri    

June   

Soldanella  pyrolsefolia 

Lilac  
Blue 

March-April   .... 
May-  June    
All  the  summer  .  . 
Summer  
Early  summer.  .  . 

Thlaspi  limosellaefolium  
Veronica  canescens  
Viola  cenisia  
Wahlenbereia  Pumilio     . 

Violet  

Soil. 


Calcareous 
Ordinary 


Damp,  calcareous 
Damp,  non-calcareous 
Damp  calcareous; 
Drier  calcareous  ' 
Ordinary  or  calcareous 


Ordinary 

Damp,  rich  and  silty 

Ordinary 

Fine  and  sandy 

Ordinary 

Calcareous 


ALPINES   UNDER  GLASS 

The  cultivation  of  alpine  plants  in  pans  is  a  most  attractive 
form  of  gardening.  Anyone  with  a  small  garden  may  grow 
many  interesting  plants  in  this  way,  as  the  amount  of  accom- 
modation required  is  not  extensive,  and  the  majority  of  the 
commoner  as  well  as  most  beautiful  kinds  are  easy  to  grow. 
Once  potted  up  in  suitable  soil,  many  of  the  Saxifragas  and 
Sempervivums,  to  mention  only  two  families  out  of  a  great 
number,  require  little  attention  besides  watering  for  two  or 
three  years.  In  the  case  of  bulbs,  however,  it  is  always 
desirable  to  obtain  a  fresh  supply  each  autumn. 

With  the  advantage  of  a  small  greenhouse  without  arti- 
ficial heat  in  which  to  place  the  pans  when  the  plants  are 
coming  into  flower  their  value  is  greatly  enhanced,  for  then 
one  can  enjoy  their  full  beauty  unimpaired  by  unfavourable 
weather,  to  which  they  would  be  exposed  if  outside.  A  view 
of  such  a  house  at  Kew  is  shown  in  the  illustrations,  from  a 
photograph  taken  during  the  second  week  in  March.  This 
house  is  unheated,  and  merely  affords  a  shelter  for  the 
plants  while  in  flower.  During  the  rest  of  the  year  they  are 
grown  with  the  pans  plunged  to  the  rim  in  ashes  in  a 
frame  or  sheltered  border  outside.  The  principal  families 
represented  in  flower  are  : 

Anemone  ( Windflower\ — This  genus  is  represented  by  the 
early  flowering  A.  Blanda,  from  Asia  Minor,  with  its  lovely 
dark  blue  flowers;  A.  Hepatica,  with  shades  of  red,  white 
and  blue  ;  and  the  South  European  A.  hortensis,  with  lilac 
purple  flowers,  having  a  paler  eye. 


158  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

Crocus. — Most  of  the  spring-flowering  Croci  were  at  their 
best  during  February,  but  several  continued  to  display  their 
attractive  flowers  well  into  the  month  of  March,  including 
the  purple  C.  Sieberi,  the  white-striped  C.  versicolor  and 
C.  biflorus,  with  C.  cerius,  to  mention  only  a  few  of  the 
numerous  worthy  kinds. 

Cyclamen. — These  charming  plants  are  suitable  for  pans, 
and  usually  open  their  flowers  in  February,  but  remain  attrac- 
tive for  several  weeks.  There  is  C*  ibericum,  with  its  rosy 
purple  flowers  and  faintly  zoned  leaves,  and  C.  Coum,  which 
differs  from  the  other  in  having  unspotted  dark  green  leaves. 
There  is  also  a  white-flowered  variety  of  the  latter,  a  desirable 
plant.  After  flowering  they  should  be  placed  outside  to  com- 
plete their  growth,  and  the  corms  should  then  be  well  ripened 
off  by  exposing  the  pans  to  the  full  sun. 

Narcissus. — The  Narcissi  form  another  valuable  bulbous 
family,  some  of  the  smaller-growing  kinds  being  well  adapted 
for  the  alpine  house.  The  earliest  flowering  kind  is  the  snowy 
white  Hoop-Petticoat  Daffodil  from  Algiers  (N.  Bulbocodium 
var.  monophylla}.  Others  are  Angels'  Tears  (N.  Triandrus\ 
with  its  two  and  three  cream-coloured  flowers  on  a  stem,  the 
Cyclamen-flowered  Daffodil  (N.  cyclamineus),  N.  Cernuus  and 
N.  minimus,  one  of  the  smallest  in  the  family. 

Primula. — This  is  represented  by  the  Himalayan  P.  denticu- 
lata,  with  its  dense  heads  of  lilac  purple  and  white  flowers ; 
P.  Fortunei,  closely  allied  to  the  Bird's-eye  Primrose  (P.fari- 
nosa) ;  P.  marginata,  with  its  silvery  margined  leaves  and  pale 
lilac  flowers  ;  and  P.  verticillata,  with  mealy  leaves  and  whorls 
of  yellow  flowers. 

Saxifraga. — This  is  one  of  the  most  important  families 
of  spring-flowering  plants,  and  the  varieties  in  cultivation 
are  numerous.  The  best-known  are  the  various  forms  of 
6*.  burseriana,  with  large  white  flowers  borne  on  slender  stalks 
above  a  cushion  of  glaucous  foliage.  Other  white-flowered 
kinds  are  S.  scardica,  var.  obtusa,  S.  Petraschii,  S.  Salomonii, 
S.  rocheliana,  and  5.  Boydii  alba..  Yellow-flowered  kinds  are 
the  lovely  S.  Boydii,  S.  Paulince,  S.  apiculata,  and  S.  sancta. 
Among  those  having  red  flowers  is  the  Macedonian  5.  Grise- 
bachii,  S.  Stribrnyi,  and  S.  Frederici  Augusti,  while  for  making 
a  charming  show  in  pans  there  is  nothing  to  excel  the  purple- 
red  5.  oppositifolia  and  its  variety  grandiflora.  The  white 
variety  of  the  last  is  also  very  pretty. 

Tulipa. — The  Cretan  T.  saxatilis,  with  its  flesh-pink 
flowers  having  a  yellow  base,  which  opened  its  flowers  at  the 
end  of  February,  was  still  in  full  beauty  the  third  week  in 


THE   ROCK   AND  WATER   GARDEN      159 

March.  One  of  the  most  beautiful  members  of  the  genus  is 
T.  kaufmanniana,  with  its  variable  flowers  of  cream  and 
yellow  with  red  stripes.  Others  in  flower  at  that  time  are  the 
rose  purple  T.pulchella  and  the  paler  T.  Lownei  from  Syria. 

Other  miscellaneous  plants  which  contribute  towards  a 
display  in  spring  include  the  well-known  Arabis  alpina; 
Adonis  amurensis,  with  yellow  flowers,  with  its  later  flower- 
ing, curious  and  handsome  double  variety,  with  a  green 
fringed  centre ;  Chionodoxa  (Glory  of  the  Snow) ;  Fritillaria 
aurea,  with  its  large  chequered  bells  of  golden  yellow  and 
brown ;  and  Hyacinthus  azureus,  which  is  undoubtedly  the 
most  charming  little  bulb  of  the  genus  for  this  purpose, 
with  a  Muscari-like  spike  of  light  blue  flowers.  Among  the 
choicest  plants  are  the  Shortias,  which  include  S.  galacifolia, 
from  North  Carolina,  with  its  white-fringed,  bell-like  flowers ; 
5.  uniflora,  from  Japan,  of  dwarfer  habit,  with  large,  pale  pink 
flowers ;  and  S.  uniflora  var.  grandiflora,  with  larger  foliage 
than  the  last  and  deep  pink  flowers  of  large  size.  Morisia 
hypogcea,  with  its  rich  yellow  flowers,  and  the  Draba  of  various 
kinds  help,  with  others  too  numerous  to  mention,  to  make  a 
pleasing  display  that  is  very  welcome  in  the  early  spring. 

Cultivation. — Although  some  of  the  alpine  plants  from 
higher  elevations  require  special  conditions  and  soil,  a  great 
number  are  easily  accommodated  and  will  flourish  freely  in 
gritty  or  well-drained  porous  soil,  say  good  loam  2  parts, 
coarse  sand  i  part,  with  just  a  little  fine  leaf-soil  added.  For 
the  choicer  Saxifragas  a  little  crushed  limestone  may  also 
be  mixed  with  the  bulk.  The  size  of  the  pans  in  which  the 
plants  are  to  be  grown  is  immaterial,  but  the  most  con- 
venient for  general  purposes  are  those  6  inches  or  7  inches 
in  diameter  and  about  4  inches  or  5  inches  deep.  For  Saxi- 
fragas, Sedums,  Androsaces,  and  such  like  plants  the  pans 
should  be  about  half-filled  with  broken  crocks  to  secure 
thorough  drainage,  but  in  the  case  of  bulbs  or  stronger  grow- 
ing plants  less  is  needed.  When  in  full  growth  and  flowering 
abundance  of  water  is  necessary  for  nearly  all  alpine  plants ; 
but,  at  the  same  time,  anything  in  the  nature  of  stagnant 
moisture  is  injurious.  The  best  time  for  potting  up  the 
perennial  kinds  is  soon  after  they  have  done  flowering  for 
the  season,  when  they  can  be  divided  up  carefully,  afterwards 
placing  them  in  a  frame  where  they  can  be  kept  close  and 
shaded  for  a  time.  Bulbs  should  be  potted  up  in  September, 
or  as  soon  after  as  they  can  be  procured.  After  potting  the 
bulbs  plunge  the  pans  to  the  rim  in  ashes  outside  ;  only  bring 
them  into  the  house  when  they  show  signs  of  flowering. 


i6o 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


After  flowering  replunge  the  pans  and  keep  well  supplied 
with  plenty  of  water  till  the  bulbs  have  matured  their  foliage, 
then  withhold  the  water,  and  allow  them  to  be  well  ripened 
off. 

THE  WALL  GARDEN 

Apart  from  the  orthodox  rock-garden,  endless  opportunities 
present  themselves  to  the  enthusiast  wherein  the  charming 
individuality,  it  may  be  of  some  capricious  or  even  common- 
place subject,  will  acquire  a  fresh  interest  from  meeting  it 
under  less  stereotyped  conditions.  In  this  respect  the  grow- 


FIG.  15. — Elevation  of  a  Dry  Wall.    The  shaded  parts  represent  soil ; 
the  crosses  indicate  positions  for  plants. 

ing  interest  in  dry  walls  calls  for  attention,  for,  while  these 
embody  the  principles  of  rock-gardens,  often,  indeed,  in 
charming  miniature,  also  presenting  characters  entirely  their 
own,  their  ultimate  success  will,  as  a  matter  of  course,  largely 
depend  upon  the  knowledge  and  taste  of  the  person  who 
designs  or  plants  them. 

We  would  strongly  insist  upon  careful  study  being  given 
to  the  position  where  dry  walling  is  intended  to  be  introduced, 
as  it  is  difficult  to  harmonise  it  with  formal  or  geometrical 
features ;  further,  the  method  and  materials  employed  in  this 
form  of  building  are  quite  the  opposite  to  that  present  in 
"  finished  "  architecture. 

Simplicity  is  a  safe  principle  in  dry  wall  construction,  and 
it  is  wise  economy  to  use  the  best  material  one  can  command. 
Stone  may  always  be  recommended,  as,  apart  from  its  decora- 
tive effect,  in  itself  it  favours  the  maximum  development  of 


^  t 


CERASTIUM   IN   DRY  WALL. 


THE   WALL   GARDEN 


161 


plant  growth.  The  portions  should  be  used  as  they  arrive 
from  the  quarry,  irregular  in  shape  and  size,  and  varying  in 
thickness  from  2  inches  to  6  inches. 

The  practical  work  in  building  dry  walls  is  comparatively 
simple,  the  main  principles  of  which  we  have  attempted  to 
make  clear  in  the  accompanying  diagrams.  Fig.  15  shows  the 
face  of  the  wall  as  it  appears  when  finished,  the  plants  being 
indicated  by  a  cross.  The  method  of  " bonding"  the  stones 

Kcal  Lint 


FIG.  1 6. — Section  showing  the  principle  of  arranging  stones  in  dry 
walls.     Note  how  the  stones  slope  back  from  the  vertical. 

must  also  be  observed,  as  this  renders  the  wall  more  permanent. 
Fig.  16  shows  the  way  in  which  the  face  of  the  wall  inclines 
backward,  while  the  individual  stones  dip  in  the  same  direc- 
tion. To  proceed  in  building,  the  ground-line  is  first  marked 
out  and  made  quite  firm  by  thorough  ramming.  The  largest 
stones  are  then  placed  in  position,  keeping  the  joints  fairly 
close  when  the  stone  is  in  small  pieces,  while  a  3-inch  or 
4-inch  joint  will  not  endanger  the  structure  when  the  stone 
is  of  good  size.  Whenever  a  course  is  laid,  the  joints  and 
crevices  behind  are  filled  with  good  soil  and  the  whole  made 
perfectly  firm.  The  first  layer  of  stone  is  then  covered  to 

L 


1 62  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

the  depth  of  an  inch  with  soil;  and  the  second  course  laid  in 
a  similar  manner  to  that  already  described,  each  subsequent 
course  being  similarly  treated  until  the  requisite  height  is 
gained.  The  inclination  or  "  batter "  given  to  the  wall  is 
readily  measured  by  driving  in  one  or  more  stakes  per- 
pendicular with  the  front  projection  of  the  bottom  course  ; 
then,  by  placing  a  set-square  to  these  stakes  at  intervals  of  a 
foot,  one  can  measure  to  a  nicety  the  inclination  obtained. 
The  brick  wall  illustrated  is  built  with  i-inch  batter  to  every 
foot  of  height  obtained,  and  while  the  results  have  been  quite 
good,  yet,  regarded  from  the  standpoint  of  the  practical 
cultivator,  we  put  this  as  the  extreme  minimum,  and  would 
double  this  batter  when  at  all  possible. 

The  planting  of  dry  walls  should  take  place  concurrently 
with  building,  as  this  admits  of  larger  plants  being  employed, 
and,  the  roots  being  spread  out  into  the  soil  behind,  lay  hold 
and  the  plants  become  established  in  a  very  short  time.  It  is 
also  a  good  system  to  have  a  rough  plan  prepared  of  the  main 
groupings  contemplated,  particularly  with  reference  to  the 
colours,  as  then  mistakes  are  less  likely  to  occur ;  moreover, 
a  well-thought-out  system  of  planting,  in  which  due  recogni- 
tion is  given  to  the  diversity  of  plant  growth,  is  always  more 
satisfactory  as  a  composition  than  that  obtained  by  haphazard 
planting.  Rooted  cuttings  and  seedlings  are  the  most  suitable 
methods  for  planting  dry  walls  already  in  existence,  while  a 
large  number  of  plants  may  be  introduced  by  means  of  seed. 

The  best  time  to  make  and  plant  a  dry  wall  is  during  early 
spring,  as  then  growth  is  most  active,  and  the  plants  having  a 
full  season  before  them  become  thoroughly  established  and 
capable  of  withstanding  the  utmost  rigours  of  winter.  It  is 
always  in  terrace  gardens  where  dry  walls  reach  their  highest ; 
in  such  they  may  be  interpolated  so  as  to  overcome  the  most 
awkward  slope. 


DRY  WALLS  IN  WINTER 

The  two  illustrations  of  the  same  place  are  from  photo- 
graphs taken  in  November,  the  second  a  year  later  than  the 
first.  The  bank  was  considered  beyond  garden  cultivation 
and  was  famous  for  its  Thistles.  Books  were  read  and  plans 
of  dry-walling  studied,  but  they  gave  little  help,  for  in  them 
the  stones  were  always  right  in  shape  and  size  ;  only  reality 
could  teach  one  what  a  handicap  the  only  procurable  stones  of 
the  neighbourhood  might  be.  It  is  a  true  test  of  workmanship 


THE   PAVED   GARDEN  163 

and  perseverance  to  turn  poor  material  into  good  work.  The 
material  we  used  was  either  dug  up  in  this  garden  or  brought 
here  as  rubbish  to  fill  in  a  new  drive  ;  so  each  stone  had  first 
to  be  sorted  out  of  dozens  and  then  to  be  shaped  with  mallet 
and  chisel. 

Experience  was  a  fine  teacher  to  the  amateur  builder  of 
this  wall.  The  chief  points  he  learned  were  these  :  Have  a 
firm  and  level  foundation  trench,  with  the  foundation  at  least 
6  inches  below  ground-level.  Place  the  stones  in  layers,  and 
keep  them  in  a  straight,  horizontal  line.  As  in  brick-laying, 
let  one  stone  lock  another,  that  is,  one  joint  come  under  the 
centre  of  the  stone  above.  The  face  of  the  wall  must  incline 
inwards,  so  as  to  lean  against  the  bank  it  supports.  This  wall 
might  be  called  serpentine-fronted.  The  first  illustration  shows 
how  it  bows  forward  in  the  centre,  about  one  third  of  the 
length  being  shown.  The  seedling  Pinks,  Dianthus  plumarius 
annulatus  hybrids,  were  planted  as  the  building  progressed, 
and  were  each  encouraged  by  a  handful  of  good  loam.  The 
second  illustration  shows  the  result.  Another  thing  to  re- 
member is  to  ram  and  pack  the  soil  tightly  behind  and 
between  the  stones.  Just  above  the  Pinks  is  Convolvulus 
althceoides.  All  through  the  summer  its  soft  pink  flowers  have 
shimmered  and  glowed  on  this  warm,  sandy  bank,  and  in 
winter  one  is  thankful  for  its  beautiful  silvery  grey  leaves, 
shaped  like  those  of  the  Passion  Flower.  One  word  of 
warning.  This  graceful  Bindweed  wants  plenty  of  room — 
one  realises  this  if  the  illustrations  are  compared — for  it  has 
now  pushed  its  way  through  the  stones,  has  invaded  the 
Cistuses,  and  is  fast  taking  possession  of  the  Nepeta  Mussinii 
above  it ;  but  it  requires  a  well-drained  soil  and  a  southern 
aspect  to  make  it  such  a  ramper. 

The  Cerastium  pennsylvanicum  was  just  arriving  at  its 
winter's  best  when  the  second  photograph  was  taken,  for 
all  this  young  growth  has  been  made  since  July,  when  it 
was  cut  down  to  the  ground.  This  bank,  which  a  few  years 
ago  was  an  uncultivated  waste,  is  now,  thanks  to  its  wrall  and 
its  clothing  of  motley  grey  foliage,  the  brightest  spot  in  a 
November  garden. 


THE    PAVED   GARDEN 

There  is  at  present  a  growing  feeling  among  gardeners  that 
the  reaction  against  formality  in  gardening  has  reached  its 
limit,  and  that  it  is  time  the  pendulum  began  to  swing  back 


164  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

in  the  opposite  direction.  People  are  beginning  to  realise 
that  gardening  comprises  something  more  than  a  servile 
imitation  of  Nature  ;  that  the  artistic  criterion  of  a  garden  is 
something  higher  than  its  naturalness.  The  mistake,  which 
is  still  too  often  made,  is  the  failure  to  realise  the  architectural 
character  of  such  garden  appendages  as  pergolas,  trellises, 
arbours,  and  summer-houses.  With  a  growing  appreciation 
of  the  fact  that  such  things  demand  as  careful  planning  as 
the  dwelling-house  itself  there  is  arising  a  class  of  specialists 
whom  one  may  designate  "  garden  architects."  The  particular 
branch  of  gardening  to  which  we  desire  now  to  draw  attention 
falls  within  the  peculiar  province  of  such  garden  architects, 
and  a  paved  garden  designed  by  one  of  that  fraternity  will 
be  far  less  likely  than  would  otherwise  be  the  case  to  display 
such  glaring  and  rudimentary  errors  as,  for  example,  the 
use  of  so-called  " rustic"  work  in  conjunction  with  paved 
walks  or  courts.  For  one  of  the  cardinal  principles  to  be 
observed  in  the  design  and  construction  of  the  paved 
garden — be  it  merely  a  paved  walk  with  or  without  a  pergola, 
a  paved  Rose  or  water  garden,  or  a  paved  forecourt — is  that 
the  only  traces  of  rusticity  allowable  in  such  a  garden  are 
those  due  to  art  and  not  to  accident.  It  is,  for  example, 
not  merely  permissible  but  desirable  to  encourage  the  mossing 
over  of  stone  edgings  and  the  interstices  of  paving,  for 
thereby  is  obtained  that  venerable  appearance  betokening 
the  undisturbed  restfulness  of  long  years,  which  should  be 
an  attribute  of  the  paved  garden. 

If  any  plants  at  all  be  admitted  upon  the  actual  paving, 
the  very  greatest  care  should  be  exercised  in  their  selection 
and  insertion.  It  cannot  too  often  be  insisted  upon  that 
paving  is  primarily  intended  for  the  feet  of  man,  and  any 
plants  allowed  to  grow  upon  the  space  devoted  to  that 
purpose  must  not  only  wear  the  semblance  of  having  made 
a  bold  bid  for  freedom  and  escaped  thither  from  the  neigh- 
bouring borders,  but  they  must  in  themselves  be  strictly 
in  harmony  with  their  surroundings.  The  indiscriminate 
planting  of  a  variety  of  rock  plants  is  most  strongly  to 
be  condemned.  To  an  artistic  mind  the  result  of  such 
planting  is  as  repellent  as  would  be  the  appearance  of  casual 
footpaths  across  one's  choicest  Rose-beds.  As  Rose-beds  are 
intended  for  Roses,  so  are  walks  intended  for  walking  upon, 
a  proposition  so  elementary  that  its  habitual  neglect  is  little 
short  of  astounding. 

A  cardinal  rule  to  be  observed  in  planting  crevices  is 
that  all  traces  of  the  gardener's  hand  must  be  studiously 


THE   PAVED   GARDEN  165 

obliterated ;  accordingly,  the  most  successful  results  are 
obtained  where  the  paving  is  flanked  by  low  retaining  walls 
built  of  unmortared  stones,  the  chinks  between  which  are 
filled  with  suitable  alpines,  so  that  any  plants  allowed  to  grow 
upon  the  paving  appear  to  be  favoured  intruders  in  forbidden 
regions.  Where  no  such  retaining  wall  is  present,  it  is 
advisable  to  have  a  stone  edging  covered  here  and  there  with 
the  most  prostrate  plants,  some  of  which  may  be  permitted  to 
trespass  a  short  distance  upon  the  walk.  The  varieties  of 
Phlox  subulata  are  peculiarly  charming  when  grown  in  this 
way.  Again,  where  the  paths  or  walks  are  flanked  by  beds, 
in  which  the  front  portions  are  occupied  by  the  lower-growing 
Campanulas,  Saxifrages,  or  Sedums,  a  stray  plant  or  two 
of  the  same  variety  may  be  allowed  to  wander  on  to  the 
adjoining  pathway. 

A  solution  of  the  difficulty  is  to  be  found  in  the  use 
of  exceedingly  dwarf  species  only,  such  as  the  Veronicas 
canescens  and  rupestrisy  Arenaria  balearica,  Herniaria  glabra, 
Mentha  Requienii,  Thymus  Serpyllum  albus  and  coccineus,  and 
possibly  also  the  Accenas,  such  as  inermis  or  pulchella,  or, 
best  of  all,  Buchanani.  None  of  these  will  resent  an  occasional 
trampling.  Subject  to  the  restrictions  already  stated,  such 
dainty  small  flowers  as  Asperula  Gussonuand.  hirta.  Campanula 
pusilla,  especially  the  variety  named  after  Miss  Willmott,  and 
pulla^  Stansfieldii  and  waldsteiniana;  Erinus  alpinus,  carmineus, 
and  albus;  Hutchinsia  alpina,  Saxifraga  muscoides  atropur- 
pureum  and  Rhei,  Sileneacaulis,  Sedum  farinosum,  Sempervivum 
arachnoideum,  and  such  plants  as  the  dwarf  Dianthuses,  may 
be  allowed  upon  the  outer  portions  of  the  paving. 

One  of  the  most  charming  and  effective  uses  of  paving 
is  in  the  Rose-garden  ;  but  here,  great  though  the  temptation 
may  be,  the  walks  should  be  left  free  of  vegetation,  with  the 
exception  of  moss.  One  word  of  warning  should  be  given 
concerning  the  size  of  the  stones  employed.  These  should 
never  be  less  than  i  foot  square,  but  should  preferably  be 
considerably  larger.  For  walks  those  of  rectangular  shape 
are  most  suitable.  For  a  paved  enclosed  court,  such  as  the 
little  Tudor  garden  at  Hampton  Court  Palace,  stones  of 
irregular  sizes  and  shapes  may  be  used.  An  admirable 
example  of  a  large  paved  garden  associated  with  tub  plants 
and  Lily  tanks  is  to  be  seen  in  Kensington  Gardens,  near 
Lancaster  Gate.  Such  a  garden  forms  a  most  appropriate 
connecting  link  between  the  precincts  of  the  house  and  those 
of  the  garden  proper.  Many  alpines  will  be  found  to  seed 
freely  between  the  joints  of  the  paving  ;  where  there  is  ample 


1 66  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

space,  a  charming  effect  is  produced  by  a  few  clumps  of 
seedlings  of  plants  such  as  Campanula  portenschlagiana, 
garganica,  and  G.  F.  Wilson  ;  Cheiranthus  Allionii,  Dianthus 
deltoides  roseus,  Erinus  alpinus,  Linaria  alpina,  and  Papaver 
alpinum.  But  even  here  the  keynote  of  success  is  modera- 
tion. 

In  Old  English  gardens  Lavender  walks  formed  one  of 
the  most  pleasing  features,  and  those  who  are  fond  of  old- 
world  effects  could  not  do  better  than  introduce  this  feature 
in  gardens  of  to-day.  Nothing  could  be  more  simple.  Cut- 
tings of  Lavender  root  readily  in  the  autumn  if  prepared  from 
young  wood  and  inserted  in  free,  sandy  soil  under  hand- 
lights,  when  they  will  be  ready  to  plant  out  in  the  spring. 
Cuttings,  when  taken  with  a  "heel,"  also  root  in  the  open 
in  sandy  soil,  but  the  method  of  using  a  hand-light  ensures 
success,  and  is  generally  preferred.  The  paved  Lavender  walk 
seen  in  the  illustration  is  a  delightful  feature  of  the  gardens 
at  Regal  Lodge,  Kentford.  The  bold  lines  of  Lavender 
are  edged  with  Thyme,  while  between  the  paving-stones  are 
many  little  tufts  of  dwarf  Campanulas,  chiefly  C.  pulla  and 
the  variety  Miss  Willmott.  If  preferred,  pink  China  Roses 
could  be  mingled  with  the  Lavender,  the  combination  being 
particularly  pleasing. 


THE  BOG  GARDEN  AND  ITS  FORMATION 

Of  the  many  phases  of  open-air  gardening,  none,  perhaps, 
is  fraught  with  greater  possibilities,  and  none,  certainly,  pos- 
sessed of  greater  charms,  than  the  bog  garden  if  well  and 
rightly  conceived.  It  is  in  this  type  of  garden  that  we  see 
plants  grow,  flourish,  and  blossom  that  too  frequently  are  met 
languishing  for  the  moisture  they  love  in  the  open  border. 
Indeed,  one  of  the  great  charms  of  bog  gardening  is  that  the 
plants  thrive  and  grow  apace,  and  that  nothing  droops  or  dies, 
simply  because  the  subjects  are  rightly  placed  and  constantly 
provided  with  the  moisture  so  essential  to  their  well-being. 
But  in  the  bog  garden,  as  in  all  else,  there  is  just  the  possi- 
bility of  the  strong  crowding  out  the  weak — just  the  possibility 
that  by  one  false  step,  made  unwittingly,  a  plant  may  be 
introduced  that  may  prove  a  nuisance  for  years.  Hence, 
at  the  outset,  there  is  the  same  need  for  discretion  and  for 
that  close,  intimate  knowledge  of  the  subjects  chosen  for  the 
work,  of  their  slow  or  quick  growth  as  well  as  their  ultimate 


THE   BOG   GARDEN  167 

development,  as  there  is  in  any  other  phase  of  gardening 
work. 

The  host  of  plants  benefiting  by  constant  supplies  of  mois- 
ture during  a  hot  season  may  tempt  some  to  introduce  those 
that  intrude  their  presence  in  all  directions,  or  that  quickly 
choke  or  overrun  others  whose  finer  attributes  render  them  far 
more  desirable  for  such  a  place.  Of  such  as  the  former  many 
examples  might  be  given,  though  one,  the  Epilobiums,  will 
suffice  for  all  purposes.  Here  we  have  a  small  group  of  rapidly- 
increasing  plants  that  appear  to  grow  all  the  year  round, 
sending  out  such  vigorous  stolons  or  underground  shoots 
or  stems  which,  springing  up  some  distance  from  the  original, 
soon  make  their  presence  felt  in  their  new  homes.  For  such 
as  these,  then,  welcome  as  they  are  in  the  wild  garden,  there 
is  no  room — there  should  certainly  be  no  place — in  the  bog 
garden  we  have  in  mind,  and  no  quarter  should  be  given  to 
the  smallest  seedling  which  might  appear.  Thus  it  will  be 
seen  that,  in  our  opinion,  a  bog  garden  should  not  be  a  sort 
of  dumping-ground  for  any  and  every  moisture-loving  plant ; 
rather  should  it  be  a  spot — an  adjunct  to  the  garden  proper  if 
you  will — to  be  enriched  and  beautified  with  the  choicer 
subjects  of  other  climes  as  well  as  those  of  our  own  land, 
subjects  which,  revelling  in  moisture,  know  no  happier  place 
than  the  natural  bog. 

But  some  may  say,  very  few  gardens  are  possessed  of  or 
include  a  naturally  boggy  spot,  hence,  if  we  would  grow  such 
things  as  delight  therein,  an  artificial  substitute  must  be 
arranged.  In  connection  with  this  not  infrequent  question 
arises  the  all-important  point  as  to  whether  the  abode  for 
such  plants  must  be  made  water-tight.  The  correct  answer 
depends  not  a  little  on  the  available  supply  of  water  and 
equally  on  the  nature  of  the  subsoil.  Where  a  retentive, 
plastic  clay  soil  exists,  a  veritable  driblet  or  trickle  of  water 
will  maintain  the  soil  in  a  state  of  semi-saturation,  sufficient, 
indeed,  for  all  purposes.  On  the  other  hand,  where  the  sub- 
soil is  of  sand  or  gravel,  a  slight  excavation  of  this  will  be 
required  to  admit  of  the  introduction  of  well-tempered  clay, 
than  which  nothing  is  so  good  or  so  natural.  A  lowering, 
too,  of  the  ultimate  surface  soil  is  desirable  in  those  instances 
where  a  light  soil  obtains,  to  admit  of  the  water  from  the 
rainfall  finding  its  way  into  the  bed. 

In  all  large  gardens  in  hilly  districts,  the  forming  of  an  arti- 
ficial bog  garden  or  bed  is  quite  an  easy  matter.  The  ideal  con- 
dition for  such  is,  when  a  fountain  basin  exists  on  the  terrace 
lawn,  with  the  overflow  tumbling  into  a  rock-garden  pool  a 


1 68  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

few  feet  below,  and  in  turn  trickling  away  into  the  woodland 
lower  down,  where  it  can  be  used  to  advantage  for  the 
purpose  we  have  in  mind.  In  just  these  happy  circumstances, 
many  years  ago  I  spent  much  time  in  adding  beauty  to  a 
phase  of  gardening  not  then  common,  and  where  the  founder 
of  the  garden  delighted  on  occasion  to  roam.  An  opening  in 
the  wood  gave  all  that  was  desirable,  and  with  sun  and 
warmth  and  varying  degrees  of  moisture  a  large  area  was 
furnished  with  the  plants  varying  from  such  carpeting  sub- 
jects as  Anagallis  tenella,  Sibthorpia  europcea,  Linncea  borealis, 
andPratia  angulata  to  the  giant  Royal  Fern,  Osmunda  regalis, 
of  several  feet  high  and  through. 

There  are  also  peat-loving  and  loam-loving  plants,  hand- 
some Lilies  as  pardalinum  and  superbum  that  reflect  their 
greatest  beauty  in  the  woodland  bog  garden,  while  dozens  of 
others,  Primulas,  Trilliums,  Sarracenias,  Parnassias,  Dode- 
catheons,  Cypripediums  in  variety,  Saxifraga  Hirculus,  Marsh 
Marigolds,  Orchises,  Pinguiculas,  Droseras  and  the  like  may 
all  be  grown  to  perfection  in  a  few  square  feet  of  bog.  There 
are,  of  course,  Primulas  such  as  P.  japonica  and  Saxifragas 
such  as  peltata  that  are  not  quite  suited  to  the  smallest  of 
these  bog-beds,  unless,  indeed,  they  be  given  place  at  the 
outer  margins  where  the  chief  supply  of  moisture  enters. 
Just  what  is  suited  to  any  and  every  case  will,  of  course, 
depend  entirely  upon  circumstances.  Happily  there  are 
plant  giants  like  the  Gunnera,  Osmunda,  and  Spiraea,  to- 
gether with  the  miniatures  I  have  already  named,  that  make 
bog  gardening  possible  in  large  and  small  gardens  alike,  and 
where  the  plants  of  our  own  marshes  and  woods  may,  with 
others  from  the  higher  mountains  of  Europe  and  elsewhere, 
jointly  play  their  part  in  making  this  aspect  of  gardening  one 
of  the  most  fascinating  of  the  year. 


THE   HARDY   NYMPH^AS   OR   WATER   LILIES 

The  following  article  is  by  Mr.  James  Hudson,  V.M.H., 
head  gardener  at  Gunnersbury  House,  Acton.  Mr.  Hudson 
is  an  expert  on  hardy  Water  Lilies,  having  made  a  careful 
study  of  their  requirements  for  many  years  : 

Their  Popularity.—  Perhaps  no  flower  among  all  the  British  flora  is 
more  admired  than  our  common  or  wild  Water  Lily,  Nymphcea  alba. 
It  was  about  the  first  of  all  flowers  that  claimed  my  attention  nearly 
sixty  years  ago.  I  remember  well  the  lovely  effect  that  was  made  upon 


THE   WATER   GARDEN  169 

some  large  sheets  of  water  in  a  deer  park  near  to  my  home,  and  with 
most  suitable  surroundings,  too,  such,  for  instance,  as  the  Bulrush 
(Scirpus  lacustris).  I  have  also  seen  other  sheets  of  water  covered  with 
this  Water  Lily  flowering  in  the  greatest  profusion.  The  flowers  are 
often  offered  for  sale  in  the  seacoast  towns  of  the  Eastern  Counties,  the 
source  of  supply,  no  doubt,  being  the  Broads.  The  true  N.  alba  has 
a  comparatively  small  flower,  and  must  not  be  confounded  with  N. 
Candida^  which  is  more  vigorous  in  every  respect.  Considering  how 
very  popular  these  old  inhabitants  of  our  ponds  and  lakes  have  ever 
been,  it  was  no  wonderment  to  think  how  the  first  of  the  tinted  hybrids 
took  on  when  first  imported  into  this  country.  There  was,  it  is  true, 
an  impression  in  some  quarters  that  these  hybrids  were  not  perfectly 
hardy.  That  doubt  has  now,  I  think,  been  completely  dispelled.  We 
have  been  steadily  led  up  to  the  deeper  tints  that  now  obtain  in  some 
of  the  more  recently-introduced  hybrids.  Now  we  have  an  ample 
choice  from  point  of  colour  alone,  as  we  have  also  in  diversity  of 
growth.  Many  are  the  ponds  and  lakes  that  are  now  ornamented  with 
these  lovely  flowers,  and  that  to  great  advantage  beyond  a  doubt. 
They  look  well  when  seen  at  a  distance,  and  even  more  so  when  viewed 
from  rising  ground,  such,  for  instance,  as  at  the  Wisley  Gardens  of  the 
Royal  Horticultural  Society ;  also  at  Gravetye  Manor,  Mr.  William 
Robinson's  country  seat  in  Sussex.  To  fully  appreciate  their  individual 
beauty  and  distinct  characteristics,  a  closer  inspection  needs  to  be  made. 
Then  we  can  fully  realise  how  lovely  some  of  the  later  hybrids  are. 

Their  Utility. — Many  sheets  of  water,  both  large  and  small,  look 
well  without  any  superabundance  of  aquatic  growth.  It  is,  however, 
around  the  margins  and  in  cosy  nooks  of  the  larger  surfaces  of  water 
that  the  Nymphaeas  have  a  good  effect.  Smaller  sheets  of  water  may, 
in  some  measure,  have  a  greater  quantity  of  these  plants,  so  as  to  pro- 
duce a  distinct  effect.  For  these  purposes  there  is  now  an  abundant 
choice,  both  in  various  forms  of  growth  and  in  the  diversity  of  colours. 
Some,  too,  are  suitable  to  large  fountains  ;  others  are  better  even  when 
grown  in  small  basins  of  water ;  while  it  is  also  possible  to  grow  them 
in  large  shallow  tubs  with  very  good  results.  In  whatever  way  they  are 
grown,  they  add  to  the  attractiveness  of  the  garden,  and  that,  too,  at  a 
season  when  the  garden  is  most  frequented  and  more  time  spent 
therein.  Small  ponds  and  shallow  pools  are  at  times,  in  a  measure, 
unsightly  by  reason  of  a  scum  upon  the  surface  of  the  water.  Where 
this  happens  to  be  the  case,  some  Water  Lilies  should  be  planted. 
These,  it  is  true,  may  not  altogether  dispel  the  bad  effect  produced, 
but  they  will  greatly  assist  in  doing  so. 

Their  Freedom  of  Growth.—  Many  of  the  hybrids  raised  by  M. 
Latour-Marliac  are  remarkable  for  their  vigorous  growth.  For  these 
more  room  is  needed  than  is  often  allotted  to  them.  When  it  is  seen 
that  the  leaves  are  so  dense  as  to  force  themselves  out  of  the  water,  it 
is  indicative  that  a  greater  depth  is  necessary  for  them.  If  this  cannot 
be  provided,  it  is  better  to  thin  out  the  crowns.  This  should  be  done 
without  any  hesitation,  for  two  or  three  good  crowns  are  very  much 


170  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

better  than  twice  the  number  in  the  same  space.  For  the  strongest 
growers  6  feet  in  depth  of  water  is  none  too  much.  I  have  seen 
such  as  JV.  Marliacea  chromatella  doing  well  in  as  much  as  18  feet  of 
water,  but  I  do  not  recommend  planting  at  that  depth.  This  variety 
is  very  often  seen  late  in  the  season  to  be  overcrowded.  When  such 
is  the  case,  it  points  to  a  need  of  division.  The  flowers  are  often 
smothered  by  the  leaf-growth  also  when  the  latter  is  so  dense ;  this  in 
no  sense  is  desirable.  Vigorous  growth  is  also  fostered  and  encouraged 
when  the  mud  is  too  deep ;  this  fact  must  also  be  contemplated  when 
the  planting  is  being  done.  I  knew  an  instance  once  where  there  was 
an  escape  of  sewage  into  a  lake ;  here  the  growth  was  luxurious  almost 
beyond  description. 

On  the  other  hand,  there  are  several  of  these  hybrids  that  are  of 
quite  moderate  growth,  yet  producing  both  leaves  and  flowers  of  large 
size.  When  I  note  that  any  particular  variety  possesses  long  petioles 
(or  leaf-stalks),  I  take  it  as  an  indication  that  it  will  thrive  better  in 
deeper  water.  What  I  do  not  like  to  see  is  a  plant  that  has  a  tendency 
to  produce  a  multitude  of  small  leaves,  which  lie  almost  upon  each 
other  at  times,  and  with  but  few  flowers.  A  few  years  ago  this  appeared 
to  be  a  weakness  of  a  few  of  the  hybrids.  I  have  not  noted  it  to  such 
an  extent  during  the  past  two  or  three  years.  When  it  does  occur,  it 
is  advisable  to  break  up  the  plant  into  single  crowns  where  it  is  possible 
to  do  so.  This  should  be  done  in  May,  if  it  be  possible,  and  with  a 
sharp  knife,  aiming  at  a  few  roots  to  each  division.  These  will  almost 
invariably  establish  themselves  during  the  coming  summer.  Some 
there  are  that  flower  so  profusely,  almost  at  every  leaf,  and  do  not  in 
consequence  make  any  back  breaks.  It  is  rather  difficult  to  propagate 
such.  We  had  such  a  case  once  in  N.  Laydekeri  rosea,  which  never 
made  a  break.  This  plant  ultimately  died,  but  not  before  we  had 
obtained  one  seedling  from  it. 

Their  Value  in  the  Water  Garden. — Water  Lilies  play  an  important 
part  now  in  the  effective  grouping  of  water  plants,  combined  with 
sub-aquatics  and  plants  that  associate  with  both,  and  which  may  be 
fairly  termed  water-side  plants.  Taking  the  illustration  as  an  example, 
one  may  note  how  well  all  the  subjects  comprised  therein  blend 
with  one  another.  Here  may  be  noted  such  water  plants  as  the 
Arrow-head  (Sagittaria  species),  the  Water  Sedge  (Cyperus  longus\ 
and  of  sub-aquatics  such  as  the  Astilbes  in  variety.  Upon  firmer 
ground  may  be  noted  both  Bamboos  and  Miscanthus,  as  well  as  the 
moisture-loving  Saxifrage  (S.  peltata),  the  giant  Californian  species. 
Such  a  grouping  as  this  is  most  effective,  the  trees  in  the  distance 
adding  to  the  general  attractiveness.  In  the  immediate  foreground  one 
Water  Lily  gives  indication  of  needing  either  deeper  water  or  division. 
Allusion  to  the  treatment  of  such  will  be  noted  further  on.  Each  of 
the  clumps  of  Lilies  is  planted  at  a  good  distance  apart.  This  is  as  it 
should  be.  When  possible,  it  is  most  advisable  to  plant  for  colour 
effect.  By  selecting  those  that  can  be  relied  upon  to  flower  freely,  this 
can  be  done.  It  is  possible  to  so  arrange  such  a  water  garden  as  this 


HARDY   NYMPH&AS    (WATER   LILIES)    IN    TANK. 


THE   WATER   GARDEN  171 

or  distant  effect,  but  personally  I  should  favour  such  an  arrangement 
as  would  produce  a  surprise.  In  the  illustration  it  may  be  noted  that 
no  large  trees  overhang  the  water.  This  is  as  it  should  be,  as  these 
are  not,  by  reason  of  the  shade,  at  all  favourable  to  healthy  growth. 
Caltha  polypetala  (the  new  Kingcup)  would  add  much  to  the  colour 
effect,  while  both  Menyanthes  trifoliata  (the  Bog  Bean)  and  Butomus 
umbellatus  (the  Flowering  Rush)  would,  if  not  so  showy,  add  to  the 
attractiveness  in  their  season.  For  growing  in  the  water  absolutely, 
Richardia  cethiopica  is  most  valuable  in  such  groupings  as  this.  It  will 
continue  in  flower  for  a  long  period  in  the  summer  season. 

Methods  of  Planting. — Various  methods  of  planting  can  be  adopted, 
but  the  system  I  have  practised  from  the  very  first  I  have  found  to 
answer  well.  To  begin  at  the  beginning,  in  our  case  here  I  would 
state  that  the  first  order  that  was  given  was  for  a  dozen  varieties.  That 
would  be  about  eighteen  years  ago.  The  cost  of  all  of  these  did  not 
amount  to  ^3  ;  but  I  should  state  that  the  plants  were  all  small, 
though  well  rooted  and  healthy.  When  unpacked  on  arrival  from 
M.  B.  Latour-Marliac  I  placed  them  securely  in  shallow  Strawberry 
punnets.  These  held  them  quite  comfortably,  each  plant  being  tied  in 
to  prevent  its  escape  by  any  movement  of  the  soil.  These,  with  the 
exception  of  N.flava^  all  throve  well  the  first  season  and  survived  the 
following  winter,  which  was  a  very  severe  one.  The  plant  of  N.  flava> 
however,  succumbed  during  that  trying  winter.  As  I  did  not  then  feel 
assured  of  their  hardihood,  I  covered  the  ice,  soon  after  it  formed, 
with  some  straw  litter  to  prevent,  if  possible,  a  thick  coating  over  the 
Lilies.  I  followed  this  system  of  protection  for  a  few  seasons  after- 
wards. Finding,  or  at  least  deeming  it  not  to  be  essential,  I  ceased  to 
cover  them,  and  have  never  done  so  since.  These  little  plants  of  the 
first  season  grew  so  well,  that  a  few  flowers  were  produced  the  second 
year  from  planting.  At  two  years  from  their  receipt  I  lifted  them 
carefully.  The  punnets  were,  as  a  matter  of  course,  decayed ;  but  the 
roots  all  lifted  well.  I  then  transferred  the  plants  to  small,  but  old, 
nursery  rounds  of  about  2  feet  in  diameter. 

The  best  Soil. — The  soil  I  used  then — and  I  have  found  nothing 
to  answer  better — was,  first,  a  layer  of  decayed  leaves  over  the  bottom 
of  the  basket;  then  some  broken-up  turfy  loam  and  road  scrapings. 
Into  this  soil  the  plants  were  firmly  placed,  being  again  tied  down 
to  prevent  floating.  That  season  the  eleven  plants  grew  surprisingly 
well,  and  flowered  quite  freely  for  their  size. 

Dividing  the  Plants. — In  about  three  years  afterwards  I  found  it 
necessary  to  divide  the  stronger-growing  varieties.  These  were  N. 
Marliacea  albida,  N.  M.  chromatella,  N.  M.  rosea,  and  IV.  M.  carnea,  all 
of  which  are  well  known  as  vigorous  growers,  even  under  adverse  cir- 
cumstances. I  then  used  larger  nursery  rounds  of  from  3  feet  to  4  feet 
in  diameter.  It  was  somewhat  of  a  difficulty  to  lift  the  plants  that 
time,  so  well  had  they  rooted  into  the  muddy  bottom  of  the  lake. 
They  were  slid  back  into  the  water ;  then,  by  means  of  a  cord,  the 
baskets  were  pulled  into  greater  depth  from  the  other  side.  Divisions 


172  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

of  these  and  other  strong-growing  varieties  have  taken  place  since. 
One  has  to  be  careful,  I  find,  about  the  division  of  the  weaker  growers. 
This  has  to  be  done  with  more  care  and  not  so  frequently.  I  divided 
our  plants  of  N.  odorata  rosacea  and  others  of  this  section,  and  they  never 
throve  well  afterwards,  I  am  sorry  to  say.  The  root  growths  of  these 
are  much  smaller  and  not  nearly  so  succulent  or  sappy,  being  some- 
what hard  in  texture.  They  make  much  smaller  roots  in  comparison 
also.  The  N.  Laydekeri  section  appear  to  be  somewhat  intermediate  in 
growth,  but  they  grow  freely,  all  the  same,  and  flower  most  profusely;  but, 
like  the  N.  odorata  section,  do  not  need  to  be  disturbed  so  frequently. 

One  other  method  we  have  adopted  with  success,  viz.  that  of  plant- 
ing without  baskets  by  merely  laying  some  soil  upon  the  bottom  ;  then 
place  the  plants  in  position  and  cover  with  soil,  taking  care  to  weight 
them  down  securely.  This  plan  can  only  be  adopted  when  the  water 
is  quite  low ;  meanwhile,  and  until  the  water  rises  sufficiently,  they 
must  be  covered  with  a  mat  or  other  shading.  Never  on  any  account 
should  tubs  be  used.  This  is  an  utter  mistake,  for  the  soil  in  them 
becomes  stagnant  beyond  any  hope  of  improvement.  I  have  heard  of 
Teak  tubs  being  used  for  the  purpose,  but  it  is  an  expenditure  that 
cannot  be  in  any  sense  justified.  Wire  baskets  are  not  so  bad  as  tubs, 
because  aeration  of  the  water  and  the  soil  can  then  take  place  within 
them.  But  wire  baskets  will  contract,  or  limit,  the  growth  of  the 
rhizomes,  and  this  is  to  be  regretted.  Loose  bricks  are  better  than  wire 
baskets,  as  these  can  be  removed  and  extended.  Of  all  the  systems, 
however,  I  much  prefer  wicker  nursery  rounds  without  any  handles 
to  them.  In  small  and  easily  accessible  fountains  or  basins  of  water, 
I  consider  nothing  to  equal  bricks  of  the  usual  size ;  these  should  be 
built  up  lightly  and  loosely,  so  as  to  hold  the  soil.  About  three  courses 
of  these  are  sufficient  for  all  but  the  strongest  growers,  and  these  only 
need  four  courses  at  the  most.  So-called  "  pockets,"  or  hollow  spaces 
provided  in  rockwork,  at  times  are  bad  places  for  Water  Lilies,  as  the 
soil  cannot  be  readily  renewed  in  them. 

Season  of  Planting  and  Seed /ings. — After  several  years'  experi- 
ence now,  I  find  no  time  to  equal  the  spring.  From  the  last  week  in  April 
to  the  third  week  in  May  I  consider  to  be  the  best  time  to  both  plant 
and  divide  the  rhizomes.  The  water  then  is  more  perceptibly  rising 
in  temperature  week  by  week,  and  this  will  be  congenial  to  quicker 
root  development.  Later  planting  may  be  safely  practised,  but  such 
does  not  give  the  plants  the  same  opportunity  of  re-establishing  them- 
selves before  the  autumn  sets  in.  I  should  never  attempt  to  plant  or 
divide  after  August  draws  to  a  close.  If  by  any  chance  seedlings  are 
noted  during  the  summer  months,  it  is  better  to  mark  these  and  leave 
them  until  the  following  spring  before  in  any  way  attempting  removal. 
If  during  the  month  of  August  or  early  September  any  seed  should  be 
seen  floating  upon  the  surface  of  the  water  it  may  be  secured  and  at 
once  sown  in  mud,  then  raised  in  a  temperate  house.  After  the  burst- 
ing of  the  seed-pods  the  seeds  only  float  twenty-four  hours,  then  sink 
to  the  bottom. 


THE   WATER   GARDEN  173 

Varieties. — We  have  now,  thanks  in  a  great  measure  to  the  untiring 
efforts  of  the  late  M.  B.  Latour-Marliac,  and  more  recently  to  his  son 
and  successor,  a  marvellous  selection  of  hybrids,  and  that  in  surprising 
variety,  both  as  it  pertains  to  colour,  to  vigour,  and  to  freedom  of 
growth.  There  is  an  abundant  choice  now  in  whites,  in  pale  pinks,  in 
deeper  pinks  and  rose  colours,  in  reds,  in  crimsons  of  various  shades, 
and  in  yellows  also.  Of  these  some  of  the  more  recently-raised  hybrids 
are  most  remarkable,  both  in  purity  of  colouring,  in  size  of  flowers, 
in  the  breadth  and  substance  of  the  petals,  and  in  their  floriferousness. 
To  look  at  some  of  these  later  hybrids  when  in  their  full  beauty  is  but 
to  admire  them,  and  even  to  wonder  how  they  have  been  evolved  out 
of  those  we  knew,  say,  ten  years  back.  In  more  than  one  instance  the 
season  of  flowering  has  been  extended,  both  early  and  late.  Some  of 
the  best  of  these  newer  hybrids,  so  far  as  I  have  been  able  to 
note  them,  are  :  Whites — N.virginalis  (Latour-Marliac,  1910),  which 
is  very  free-flowering,  with  flowers  of  the  largest  size,  the  petals  being 
shell-shaped  and  of  the  purest  white.  The  sepals  are  very  slightly 
tinged  with  faint  rose  colour  at  the  base,  the  stamens  being  yellow. 
With  us  it  is  the  earliest  of  all  to  flower,  as  well  as  one  of  the  very 
latest.  Its  description  anent  this  by  Latour-Marliac  is  "  precoce  et 
tardive,"  and  it  well  explains  this  characteristic.  The  foliage  is  large, 
and  has  a  faint  tinge  of  purple  therein.  The  pale  pinks,  N.  Mrs.  Rich- 
mond  (Latour-Marliac,  1910)  is,  in  my  opinion,  the  most  lovely  flower 
imaginable  in  this  the  softest  of  colours.  Of  it  we  have  had  flowers 
nearly,  or  quite,  9  inches  in  diameter.  The  petals  are  broad  and 
massive,  the  stamens  yellow.  The  flowers,  when  fully  expanded, 
are  a  lovely  sight.  Its  vigour,  too,  is  all  that  one  can  desire.  It 
has  flowered  now  for  two  seasons  with  us,  and  is  gaining  in  vigour. 
N.  formosa  (Latour-Marliac,  1909)  is  somewhat  similar  to  the  pre- 
ceding in  its  colouring,  but  deepening  towards  the  centre.  The 
petals  in  this  instance,  I  have  noted,  are  distinctly  margined  with 
pale  pink  (quite  a  picotee  edge);  the  growth,  also,  of  this  hybrid  is 
very  vigorous.  The  stamens  are  yellow  and  the  flowers  of  the  largest 
size.  JV.  somptuosa  (Latour-Marliac,  1909),  in  which  the  rose  colour  is 
slightly  more  intensified,  is  another  acquisition.  In  form  it  very  much 
resembles  N.  Laydekeri  rosea,  having  that  incurved  shape  of  the  petals. 
The  stamens  are  of  a  deep  orange  tint.  I  should  add  that  the  petals 
are  more  numerous  than  in  many  of  these  hybrids ;  in  addition,  also, 
it  is  fragrant.  The  growth  is  both  dense  and  vigorous.  TV.  Newton 
(Latour-Marliac,  1910)  is  not,  strictly  speaking,  a  pink  colour,  having  a 
suffusion  of  vermilion,  though  of  a  pale  shade.  Its  flowers  are  stellate 
in  form  and  stand  distinctly  above  the  foliage;  the  stamens  are 
orange  yellow.  N.  Colossea  (Latour-Marliac,  1901)  is  not  quite  a 
new  variety ;  nevertheless,  I  do  not  think  it  is  sufficiently  known.  It 
produces  the  largest  flowers  of  any  with  us,  and  is  best  described  as 
being  a  glorified  N.  Marliacea  rosea.  I  have  noted  its  flowers  in  the 
height  of  the  season  as  much  as  10  inches  in  diameter.  It  flowers  both 
early  and  late ;  the  foliage,  also,  is  of  the  largest  size.  The  parentage 


174  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

of  N.  Colossea  is  given  as  being  N.  maxima  alba  x  N.  gloriosa.  Of 
crimsons,  the  finest,  in  my  opinion,  is  N.  Escarbonde  (Latour-Marliac, 
1909).  In  its  colouring  it  is  almost  unique.  We  have  none  that 
approaches  it  in  intensity  of  colour,  which  is  described  as  a  uniform 
vermilion  red.  So  far  I  do  not  think  it  is  found  in  many  collections. 
The  stamens  are  of  a  deep  vermilion  red,  very  distinct.  N.  Meteor 
(Latour-Marliac,  1909)  is  somewhat  after  the  preceding,  but  not  so 
brilliant  in  colour.  The  petals  are  streaked  with  white,  but  not  regu- 
larly ;  the  sepals  are  lined  with  red,  and  the  stamens  of  a  golden  yellow 
shade.  N.  Attraction  (Latour-Marliac,  1910)  resembles  somewhat  that 
well-known  hybrid  N.  atropurpurea.  It  is,  however,  much  brighter, 
and  cannot  be  considered  as  of  the  same  colour,  which  in  this  instance 
is  a  deep  bright  purplish  crimson  with  venations  of  almond  white;  the 
stamens  are  of  a  deep  mahogany  tint.  N.  Conqueror  (Latour-Marliac, 
1910)  has  very  fine  and  distinct  flowers  of  the  largest  size,  bright  red  in 
colour,  with  white  veinings  occasionally,  the  colouring  being  deeper 
upon  the  convex  side  of  the  petals ;  the  stamens  in  this  instance  are 
orange  yellow.  The  flowers  possess  great  substance  in  addition.  The 
foregoing  are  ten  of  the  finest  of  the  newer  hybrids,  so  far  as  I  have 
been  able  to  prove  them.  They  are  all  distinct  from  the  older  varie- 
ties, and  every  one  possesses  the  essential  of  a  vigorous  growth. 

N.  gladstoniana  is  a  most  remarkable  hybrid  and  one  of  the  finest 
whites  in  cultivation,  with  no  semblance  whatever  of  pink  in  the  petals  ; 
instead  of  which  the  few  touches  of  palest  green  add  to  its  beauty. 
The  flowers  are  somewhat  after  N.  tuberosa  in  form,  being  disposed  to 
incurve  as  in  that  species.  The  flowers  are  of  the  largest  size,  while 
the  leaves  are  larger  than  any  other  Water  Lily  with  which  I  am 
acquainted.  I  suppose  this  latter  feature  is  why  the  moorfowl  often- 
times select  it  upon  which  to  make  their  nests. 

Enemies. — Like  all  other  plants  that  are  cultivated  in  our  gardens, 
the  Water  Lilies  have  some  enemies  to  contend  with.  The  water  snail 
is  one  that  is,  in  a  few  waters,  somewhat  troublesome.  The  best 
remedy  that  I  can  advise  for  this  is  the  use  of  finely  ground  lime  (not 
slaked  lime,  which  is  not  quite  so  effective,  I  think).  If  very  trouble- 
some, then  lower  the  water  and  destroy  all  that  can  be  seen,  and  lime 
all  the  surface  lightly  before  raising  the  water-level  again.  Too  free  a 
use  of  lime,  be  it  noted,  is  prejudicial,  in  my  opinion.  Aphides  will 
attack  them  at  times.  For  this  the  remedy  is  spraying  over  the  entire 
surface  towards  the  evening,  and  with  repeated  doings  if  needful,  select- 
ing a  dry,  quiet  time  if  possible.  A  mite  or  other  small  insect  will  eat 
away  the  leaves  from  the  under  side.  For  this  the  remedy  is  a  well- 
proven  insecticide  at  about  double  the  usual  strength  of  application. 
This  should  be  forced  under  the  foliage,  so  that  it  rises  against  the 
under  surface  of  the  leaves.  Another  and  most  determined  enemy  of 
the  Water  Lily,  in  my  experience,  has  been  the  waterfowl  of  divers 
kinds,  from  the  black  and  white  swans  down  to  the  moorfowl.  All 
grades  have  a  liking  either  for  the  young  bronzy  leaves  of  many  of  the 
best  hybrids  or  for  the  flowers  themselves.  The  moorfowl  will  peck 


THE   WATER   GARDEN  175 

through  the  unopened  buds  of  those  of  the  highest  colour  ;  this  is  most 
provoking.  Again,  as  I  have  alluded  to,  the  same  bird  will  appropriate 
the  leaves  of  the  individually  small  plants  (these  in  most  instances  will 
be  the  choicer  kinds),  and  this,  too,  is  annoying,  as  if  the  leaves  of  the 
older  varieties  were  not  good  enough  for  making  their  nests.  Ducks 
will  dive  and  peck  out  the  hearts  of  small  plants  very  persistently, 
while  swans  do  a  vast  amount  of  injury  in  tearing  off  the  leaves  and 
swimming  through  the  separate  plants.  Water  Lilies,  other  than  the 
common  variety,  cannot  be  grown  as  they  should  be  where  aquatic 
birds,  large  or  small,  predominate.  The  vole  or  water-rat  is  also  an 
enemy  to  the  crowns,  and  this  rodent  will  do  a  lot  of  harm  possibly 
before  he  is  detected. 


WATER   LILIES    IN   TUBS 

Water  Lilies  add  so  much  to  the  interest  of  a  garden  that 
even  the  smallest  place  will  be  rendered  more  attractive  if 
one  or  two  of  these  fascinating  flowers  can  be  cultivated. 
This  is  not  difficult,  as  by  means  of  tubs,  or  even  of  zinc  cans, 
such  as  can  be  bought  for  a  shilling  or  so,  some  of  these 
flowers  can  be  accommodated,  although  not,  of  course,  with 
the  fine  effect  produced  in  large  tanks  or  ponds.  Tubs  can 
be  readily  prepared,  and  are  cheap  to  purchase.  The  most 
convenient  to  secure  are  generally  made  from  casks  which 
have  been  used  for  petroleum.  Treacle  casks  are  also  suit- 
able, but  are  not  always  so  durable  as  the  others,  although 
generally  cheaper.  Larger  ones,  such  as  those  employed  for 
oil  for  factories,  are  excellent,  especially  for  the  larger 
varieties.  The  casks  should  be  cut  in  two,  and  a  hole  bored 
in  each  near  the  bottom,  so  as  to  drain  off  the  water  if  re- 
quired. This  should  lead  into  a  drain.  It  is  not,  however, 
essential  to  have  this  hole,  as  the  tubs  can  be  emptied  by 
hand  if  required,  and  a  change  of  water  is  not  necessary,  but 
may  be  provided  for  by  an  overflow  arrangement  at  the  top, 
conveying  the  surplus  into  a  miniature  bog  garden  or  a 
drain.  The  tubs  should  be  tarred,  pitched,  or  creosoted  on 
the  outside  for  preservation,  but  this  is  not  essential.  The 
interior  should  not  be  treated  except  by  charring  it,  using  a 
little  petroleum  and  a  few  shavings.  Tarring  inside  is  in- 
jurious to  the  plants.  The  tubs  ought  to  be  sunk  with  the 
rims  level  with,  or  even  a  little  below,  the  ground  level,  and 
their  artificial  appearance  can  be  hidden  by  surrounding 
them  with  rockwork,  arranging  the  stones  so  that  they  will 
form  an  irregular  margin  to  the  tubs.  Another  plan  the 


178  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

crimson ;  N.  odorata  exquisita,  rosy  pink ;  N.  caroliniana  per- 
fecta,  and  N.  caroliniana  rosea,  pink ;  with  N.  c.  nivea,  white, 
are  first-class.  N.  ollisiana  is  capital,  but  N.  Robinsonii  may 
take  its  place  as  a  crimson  of  moderate  growth.  Other  good 
varieties  which  may  be  selected  are :  Crimsons  and  shades  of 
the  same  hue — Attraction  Meteor,  James  Falconer,  Frcebelii, 
and  lucida.  Yellows — N.  odorata  sulphurea  grandiflora,  Mar- 
liacea  chromatella  (thin  out  severely),  and  mooreana.  Whites 
— N.  Marliacea  albida,  virginalis,  caroliniana,  and  N.  tuberosa 
Richardsonii.  Pinks — Mrs.  Richmond  and  N .formosa. 


THE  HEATH  GARDEN 


THE  following  article  is  by  Mr.  T.  Wilson,  head  gardener  at 
Glamis  Castle,  N.B.,  and  is  included  here  on  account  of  the 
practical  suggestions  set  forth  by  the  writer : 

In  these  days,  when  fashion  has  given  a  healthy  impetus  to  the 
improvement  of  flower  gardening  in  all  its  aspects,  including  rock, 
water,  and  wall  gardening,  as  well  as  a  revival  of  topiary  work,  it  may 
not  be  out  of  place  to  enter  a  special  plea  for  a  more  extended  use  of 
this  interesting  race  of  hardy  plants.  If  one  could  imitate  the  graphic 
pen  of  a  Reginald  Farrer  and  so  describe  the  many  gems  contained  in 
the  genus,  their  easily  understood  and  modest  requirements,  together 
with  the  knowledge  that  they  provide  an  inexpensive  hobby  which 
may  be  enjoyed  equally  by  those  looking  for  further  extension  to  their 
pleasure  grounds  or  those  possessing  only  a  small  strip  of  ground 
which  may  be  unsuitable  for  other  styles  of  gardening.  Then  the 
formation  of  Heath  gardens  would  soon  become  general. 

The  genus  Erica,  belonging  to  the  Natural  Order  Ericaceae,  is  said  to 
contain  between  four  hundred  and  five  hundred  species,  the  majority  of 
which  come  from  South  Africa,  the  others  being  natives  of  Britain  and 
Southern  Europe.  The  common  Heath  or  Ling,  Erica  vulgaris  or 
Calluna  vulgaris^  so  plentiful  in  the  Highlands  of  Scotland  and  on  moors 
in  England,  is  said  to  extend  to  North  America,  but  only  in  small 
quantities.  The  South  African  species  were  at  one  time  largely  grown 
as  greenhouse  plants,  but  few  of  them  are  now  in  cultivation,  their 
places  being  filled  by  numerous  soft-wooded  hybrids  which  are  largely 
grown  on  the  Continent  for  autumn  and  winter  decoration;  but  it  is 
of  the  varieties  that  have  proved  hardy  in  Britain  that  I  propose  to 
treat.  A  full  collection  or  a  selection  of  those  best  suited  to  the 
climate  may  be  had  to  provide  a  succession  of  flower  almost  through- 
out the  year;  indeed,  it  may  be  said  that  the  Heath  garden  is  never 
entirely  devoid  of  flowers  unless  when  the  plants  are  buried  deep  in 
snow.  Those  flowering  in  late  autumn  retain  their  flowers,  with  very 
little  diminution  in  the  bright  colours,  through  the  dull  months  of 
November  and  December,  and  after  the  plants  are  entirely  denuded 
of  flowers,  numerous  varieties  show  such  a  distinction  and  contrast  in 
the  colouring  of  the  foliage — some  silvery,  some  golden,  and  others 
bronzy  or  russety — that  they  are  not  without  decorative  effect,  while 
such  varieties  as  JS.  multiflora^  E.  arborea,  and  JE.  codonodes  will  by 
the  end  of  the  year  be  pushing  out  their  delicate  flowers  until  arrested 

179 


i8o  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

by  severe  frost  or  a  heavy  coating  of  snow,  only  to  reappear  with 
renewed  beauty  as  soon  as  the  sun  has  proved  strong  enough  to  melt 
the  snow  on  the  higher  shoots.  These  three  are  followed  in  quick 
succession  by  a  host  of  spring  and  early  summer  flowering  varieties,  a 
list  of  which  I  propose  to  give  later  on,  with  their  respective  colours 
and  habits. 

Situation  and  Soil. — The  situation  chosen  for  the  Heath  garden 
should  be  one  having  a  southern  aspect,  if  possible,  or  on  a  sunny 
slope  leading  from  the  formal  flower  garden  to  the  shrubbery  or  planta- 
tion, a  sort  of  connecting  link,  in  fact,  between  the  purely  artificial  and 
the  natural.  The  place  selected  must  be  thoroughly  drained,  if  not 
naturally  a  dry  spot,  for  these  plants  will  not  thrive  with  any  excess  of 
moisture  about  the  roots,  and  the  soil,  if  of  a  heavy,  retentive 
nature,  or  containing  much  lime,  would  require  to  be  removed  and 
replaced  with  a  mixture  of  peat,  leaf-mould,  and  sand  or  grit.  Should 
the  natural  soil  be  a  light  sandy  loam,  however,  none  of  these  ingredients 
will  be  required. 

Formation  of  the  Heath  Garden. — As  I  have  already  said,  the 
situation  of  the  Heath  garden  may  form  an  adjunct  to  the  formal  flower 
garden,  or  it  may  be  an  extension  or  addition  to  the  rock  garden ;  and 
a  very  pretty  effect  may  be  obtained  if  a  piece  of  ground  is  selected 
which  has  a  decided  slope  with  an  undulating  surface,  where  beds  of 
irregular  shapes  and  sizes  could  be  made  to  harmonise  with  the  exist- 
ing surroundings.  A  plantation  or  belt  of  timber  on  the  north  and 
east  of  the  site,  if  an  exposed  one,  would  give  shelter  to  visitors  and 
do  no  harm  to  the  plants;  while  a  rustic  summer-house,  thatched  with 
Heather  obtained  from  some  friendly  owner  of  a  grouse  moor,  erected 
on  a  spot  to  command  a  good  view  of  the  garden,  would  add  to  the 
general  comfort  and  appearance.  Avoid  geometrical  designs  or  the 
making  of  gravel  paths,  which  I  do  not  think  are  in  keeping  with  the 
subject  under  notice.  Beds  cut  out  in  grass,  so  that  when  in  full 
growth  the  plants  may  appear  as  if  growing  naturally  in  clumps  out  of 
the  turf,  give  the  best  effect.  The  grass  will  require  to  be  kept  regularly 
mown,  so  that  each  bed  may  be  examined  conveniently.  As  vermin  do 
not,  as  a  rule,  molest  the  Heaths,  protecting  fences,  which  often  prove 
a  difficulty,  need  not  be  considered.  The  positions  of  the  beds  having 
been  determined,  these  should  be  excavated  to  a  depth  of  i  J  feet  to 
2  feet  and  filled  in  with  the  mixture  already  mentioned. 

Planting  may  be  safely  undertaken  during  favourable  weather,  either 
in  autumn  or  spring.  The  fringes  of  shrubberies  or  large  borders  might 
also  be  made  more  interesting  by  the  addition  of  numerous  varieties 
of  the  Heath,  disposing  them  in  large,  bold  clumps  or  in  bays  formed  by 
taller-growing  subjects.  Edgings  of  some  of  the  dwarfer,  free-growing 
sorts  might  be  formed  around  the  margin  of  all  beds  or  borders  con- 
taining hardy  shrubs.  There  are  also  numerous  varieties  that  do  not 
exceed  6  inches  in  height  which  might  find  a  place  in  the  rockery,  their 
stations  being  filled  with  a  suitable  compost. 

Propagation  is  effected  by  seeds,  cuttings,  and  layers,  the  former 


THE   HEATH   GARDEN]  181 

being  only  practised  in  the  raising  of  hybrids,  although  self-sown  plants 
of  the  common  Ling  are  to  be  found  in  great  quantities  on  the  hills 
and  moors  of  Britain.  A  favourable  seed-bed  for  these  is,  however, 
only  found  after  a  quantity  of  Heather  has  been  burned  off  and  the 
ground  rendered  bare  of  vegetation  for  a  time.  Propagation  from 
cuttings  is  also  slow,  but  is  a  successful  enough  method  if  carried  out 
with  sufficient  care.  The  cuttings  should  be  selected  about  June  or 
July  from  half-ripened  shoots  of  the  current  year's  growth  and  placed 
around  the  edges  of  pots  filled  with  a  sandy  compost.  After  receiving 
a  good  soaking  of  water  they  should  be  placed  in  a  cold  frame  or  under 
a  bell-glass  and  shaded  from  bright  sunshine. 

Layering. — The  most  satisfactory  method,  however,  of  increasing 
the  stock  of  hardy  Heaths  is  by  layering,  as  this  can  be  done  in  the 
open,  unless  where  the  soil  is  unsuitable,  in  which  case  a  cold  frame 
may  be  utilised,  filling  it  to  sufficient  depth  with  a  light,  sandy 
compost. 

As  all  the  Ericas  are  liable  after  a  few  years  occupation  of  the  beds 
to  become  leggy  or  straggling,  replanting  with  fresh  dwarf  plants  becomes 
necessary,  and  for  this  purpose  it  is  a  good  plan  to  have  always  a  few 
plants  in  reserve.  These  should  be  planted  or  laid  on  their  sides  with 
the  shoots  buried  up  to  within  a  few  inches  of  the  tips ;  when  left  thus 
for  a  year  or  eighteen  months,  fresh  roots  will  have  been  produced  from 
the  hard  stems,  and  young  plants  or  tufts  of  a  convenient  size  for  re- 
planting will  be  easily  secured.  In  replanting  the  beds  with  young 
plants  it  will  not  be  necessary  to  entirely  renew  the  soil ;  the  addition 
of  some  well-decomposed  manure  will  generally  be  found  sufficient, 
well  mixing  it  with  the  compost.  Top-dressing  the  beds  annually 
with  stable  manure  is  found  of  great  advantage  to  the  plants;  this 
should  be  secured,  if  possible,  where  the  stalls  or  boxes  have  been 
bedded  down  with  moss-litter.  A  little  of  the  material  taken  fresh 
from  the  stable  and  shaken  among  the  plants  during  their  season  of 
growth  will  well  repay  the  trouble  by  assisting  the  production  of  strong, 
healthy  growth  and  abundance  of  flowers. 

Selection  of  Varieties. — In  making  a  selection  of  varieties,  one 
must  be  guided  by  the  extent  of  ground  to  be  treated,  by  the  climate, 
and  whether  spring  or  autumn  flowering  varieties  are  most  desired. 
The  most  interesting  selection,  however,  would  be  one  in  which  all 
varieties  are  represented  and  planted  with  a  view  to  having  the  beds 
flowering  in  succession  during  the  greater  part  of  the  year.  Where  a 
number  of  beds  can  be  conveniently  arranged,  each  should  be  planted 
with  varieties  flowering  about  the  same  time,  in  preference  to  having 
them  filled  with  many  sorts  flowering  at  different  periods.  The  group- 
ing of  colours  should  also  be  carefully  studied  along  with  their  com- 
parative heights,  commencing  with  those  that  flower  early  in  the  year. 

Heaths  for  Winter  Effect. — A  large  bed  might  be  devoted  to  Erica 
multiflora^  E.  codonodes^  E.  carnea  or  herbacea  and  its  varieties.  Arborea, 
under  favourable  circumstances,  will  grow  to  a  height  of  from  4  feet  to 
6  feet,  and,  indeed,  sometimes  attains  to  the  dimensions  of  a  small  tree. 


1 82  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

This  plant  is  said  to  provide  the  wood  from  which  the  so-called  Briar- 
root  pipes  are  made,  and  is  largely  imported  from  France  to  this  country 
for  that  purpose.  It  may  form  the  central  figure  of  a  large  bed ;  the 
flowers  for  the  most  part  are  white,  although  several  varieties  in 
different  colours  are  recorded.  E.  lusitanica  or  codonodes,  occasionally 
known  as  E.  polytrichifolia,  closely  allied  to  E.  arborea^  is  also  a  tall 
grower,  reaching  a  height  of  4  feet;  this  is  a  most  beautiful  variety, 
with  white  flowers  borne  very  profusely,  and  having  foliage  of  a  pleas- 
ing soft  green.  E.  multiftora  is,  perhaps,  the  earliest  to  show  flower, 
producing  its  blossoms  of  a  pale  red  colour  sometimes  in  the  last  weeks 
of  December,  if  the  weather  at  that  time  is  at  all  favourable.  Its 
average  height  is  about  2  feet,  and  is  well  adapted  for  planting 
between  the  first  two  named  and  the  dwarf  varieties  of  E.  carnea  with 
which  we  would  finish  the  planting  of  the  early  bed.  E.  carnea  forms 
dense  tufts  of  pink  flowers,  and  rarely  exceeds  a  height  of  six  inches. 
It  is  one  of  the  freest,  both  in  growth  and  flower,  of  the  whole  genus, 
and  should  be  included  in  every  collection.  E.  c.  alba,  often  catalogued 
under  the  name  of  E.  herbacea,  is  of  slightly  dwarfer  dimensions  than 
the  former,  but  otherwise  an  exact  counterpart  in  all  but  the  colour  of 
the  flowers,  which  are  white.  When  grown  in  quantity  these  lovely 
little  Heaths  provide  some  of  the  earliest  forage  for  bees,  and  together 
with  the  tall  varieties,  already  named,  give  a  display  during  the  first 
three  months  of  the  year;  but  before  they  have  quite  gone  out  of 
flower  other  varieties  are  rapidly  coming  forward. 

Heaths  for  the  Spring. — During  the  period  from  March  to  May, 
E.  mediterranea  in  numerous  colours  will  serve  to  keep  up  the  suc- 
cession, and  several  beds  may  be  devoted  to  this  section.  The  type 
grows  almost  3  feet  high,  and  has  flowers  of  a  pleasing  shade  of  red, 
and  should  be  planted  towards  the  centre  of  the  bed  or  well  back  from 
the  margin  of  the  border ;  the  others,  being  mostly  of  a  uniform  height 
of  from  9  inches  to  12  inches,  according  to  the  suitability  of  the  soil 
and  climate,  may  be  disposed  in  patches  or  blocks  to  fill  up  the  beds 
according  to  the  ideas  of  the  planter.  E.  m.  glauca  is  distinct  in  habit, 
being  a  very  compact  grower  bearing  red  flowers  ;  this  variety  requires 
somewhat  closer  planting  than  the  others  to  enable  it  to  cover  the 
ground  properly  and  avoid  a  certain  stiffness  in  form  that  it  assumes 
when  given  too  much  room.  E.  m.  hybrida  has  somewhat  larger  and 
brighter  individual  flowers  on  shorter  stems,  and  usually  flowers  were 
early,  particularly  in  the  southern  counties.  E.  m.  rubra  might  be 
described  as  a  deep  pink ;  E.  m.  nana  and  E.  m.  stricta  both  being  red. 
The  first  four  named  should  serve  for  most  purposes,  except  where  a 
very  full  collection  is  desired. 

Heaths  for  Summer  Effect. — June  is  perhaps  the  month  in  which 
we  find  the  smallest  number  of  hardy  Heaths  in  flower,  that  is,  at  the 
full  expanse  of  their  beauty,  for  those  that  were  in  full  flower  during 
April  and  May  have  by  no  means  ceased  to  provide  some  colour  effect 
in  their  respective  beds,  as  the  plants  retain  their  flowers  and  colour, 
though  somewhat  faded,  for  a  long  time  after  they  have  lost  their  fresh- 


3£ 

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THE   HEATH   GARDEN  183 

ness.  The  later-flowering  varieties,  too,  when  only  in  bud  provide  a 
certain  amount  of  colour  as  a  promise  of  what  may  be  enjoyed  in  the 
near  future.  The  varieties,  then,  that  we  may  expect  to  find  in  full 
flower  in  the  month  of  June  are  restricted  to  two,  so  far  as  I  can  gather 
from  my  own  observations.  These  are  Erica  australis  and  £.  Stuartii, 
two  plants  with  very  different  habits,  the  former  being  about  3  feet 
high,  with  flowers  of  a  curious  shade  of  colour,  which,  for  want  of  a 
better  description,  I  would  call  purplish  red.  E.  Stuartii  is  a  neat 
little  plant  about  6  inches  high,  with  pretty,  rose-coloured  flowers,  and 
forms  a  suitable  subject  for  a  comfortable  pocket  in  the  rock  garden. 

The  Best  Autumn  Varieties. — From  July  to  September  a  very  large 
number  will  be  found  in  flower,  and,  as  little  difference  can  be  noted  as 
to  their  respective  times  for  flowering,  I  give  them  in  alphabetical  order. 
E.  Lawsonii)  a  neat-growing  dwarf  variety  with  flowers  of  a  clear  red 
shade,  forms  a  suitable  subject  for  edging.  E.  mackayana,  a  very  pretty 
red  variety  growing  about  9  inches  high,  also  a  double-flowered  form 
of  the  same,  found  in  Connemara,  give  a  pleasing  variety  among  a  class 
of  plants  represented  principally  by  single  flowers.  E.  mediterranea 
multiflora  is  the  only  one  in  the  Mediterranean  group  that  flowers  in 
autumn,  all  the  others  flowering  in  spring.  This  is  a  distinct  and  striking 
variety,  having  white  flowers  with  prominent  chocolate-coloured  anthers. 
A  bed  of  smaller  dimensions  might  be  filled  with  the  last  three  sorts 
mentioned,  none  of  these  being  tall  growers.  E.  m.  multiflora  should 
occupy  the  centre,  with  E.  mackayana  next,  either  in  broad  bands  or 
suitable-sized  patches,  and  E.  Lawsonii  near  the  margin. 

The  Cross-leaved  Heath.— E.  Tetralix  is  one  of  the  most  distinct 
of  the  whole  genus,  known  as  the  Cross-leaved  Heath.  The  whole 
plant  when  not  in  flower  is  of  a  greyish  hue.  Most  of  the  varieties  are 
about  6  inches  high,  a  few  attaining  the  height  of  9  inches  to  12  inches. 
E.  Tetralix,  pale  red,  also  a  white-flowered  variety,  alba,  and  another, 
alba  major,  having  somewhat  larger  flowers,  are  similar  in  habit.  Another 
white  variety  called  molle  has  slightly  shorter  and  denser  flower-spikes, 
but  otherwise  similar  to  the  former.  Pallida  resembles  the  last-named 
except  in  colour,  which  is  of  a  very  light  shade  of  red.  E.  T.  prcecox 
grows  somewhat  taller  than  any  of  the  above-named,  and  has  white 
flowers.  All  are,  however,  of  neat  habit,  and  suitable  alike  for  the 
rock  or  Heath  garden.  The  characteristic  peculiarities  of  the  foliage 
of  this  section  are  at  all  times  striking  and  attractive.  A  new  variety, 
a  hybrid  between  E.  Tetralix  and  E.  ciliaris,  and  named  E.  T.  Watsonii, 
is  well  worthy  of  being  included  in  the  list.  The  flowers  are  of  a  pretty 
rose  pink  colour.  The  plant  is  a  free  and  vigorous  grower,  with 
attractive  foliage. 

The  Cornish  Heath  (E.  vagans)  is  perhaps  the  most  vigorous  of 
all  the  autumn-flowering  Heaths,  and  although  none  of  its  varieties 
exceed  1 8  inches  in  height,  they  soon  form  large  masses,  and  are  there- 
fore invaluable  for  planting  in  quantity  either  in  the  Heath  garden 
proper  or  for  clothing  banks  where  the  soil  may  be  too  poor  for  the 
free  growth  of  shrubs.  I  have  also  used  this  extensively  for  edgings  to 


i84  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

walks,  and  if  clipped  immediately  after  it  has  passed  out  of  flower,  it  will 
keep  in  good  order  for  a  number  of  years  before  it  requires  replanting. 
The  type  is  represented  by  a  plant  of  compact  growth  about  12 
inches  high,  bearing  flowers  of  a  pale  purplish  red  colour,  freely 
produced  on  slender,  wiry  stems  that  are  not  easily  damaged  by  rough 
usage.  Alba  (the  white  form),  carnea  (pink),  and  pallida  (flesh-coloured) 
differ  only  in  colour  from  the  first  named ;  but  a  variety  called  nana, 
possessing  a  dwarf  and  neat  habit,  not  exceeding  6  inches  in  height,  is 
quite  distinct.  E.  v.  rubra  is  the  tallest  of  the  group,  attaining  a 
height  of  1 8  inches  when  in  full  growth,  with  flowers  of  a  bright  red 
colour. 

E.  Veitchii  is  a  lovely  white  hybrid  obtained  from  crossing  E.  arborea 
and  E.  codonodes.  This  novelty  we  have  as  yet  only  seen  as  pot  speci- 
mens, but  from  its  general  appearance  it  gives  promise  of  being  a  valuable 
addition  to  an  already  extensive  collection. 

Common  Heather  or  Ling. — E.  vulgaris  (Calluna  vulgaris],  is 
too  well  known  to  need  description,  clothing  our  hills  and  moors, 
where  during  the  autumn  months  it  transforms  the  whole  landscape 
into  a  rich  purple  mass,  presenting  a  picture  of  rare  beauty  not  easily 
forgotten,  especially  by  those  who  view  it  for  the  first  time  on  a  bright 
autumn  day  on  the  slopes  of  the  Grampians.  There  are  numerous 
varieties  of  this  popular  Heath,  some  of  which  make  excellent  subjects 
for  grouping  in  the  grounds  either  in  large  masses  of  one  colour  or 
judiciously  mixed  in  beds.  The  white  varieties  are  in  much  demand, 
and  must  be  a  source  of  industry  in  some  districts,  judging  from  the 
quantities  that  are  to  be  seen  on  sale  as  cut  flowers. 

White  Heather  for  luck,  besides  being  the  badge  of  a  Highland 
clan,  is  in  much  demand  for  wedding  bouquets,  and  there  are  few 
sportsmen  who  will  not  sacrifice  the  chances  of  a  good  shot  to  stoop 
and  pluck  a  sprig  of  white  Heather  when  discovered  amid  a  sea  of  the 
common  purple  variety.  In  the  selection  of  the  finest  of  a  long  list  of 
varieties  of  E.  vulgaris,  we  would  give  first  place  to  E.  v.  Hammondii, 
closely  followed  by  E.  v.  Alportii  and  E.  v.  Serin,  the  former  being 
a  very  free  growing  variety  about  18  inches  high,  with  white 
flowers  produced  on  fairly  long  spikes  and  forming  a  less  compact 
but  more  graceful-looking  bed  than  many  of  the  others.  E.  v.  Alportii 
is  a  very  pretty  dark  red  variety  growing  about  i  foot  high,  and 
where  beds  of  mixed  colours  are  favoured,  this  makes  a  fine  companion 
for  E.  v.  Hammondii.  E.  v.  Serlii  is  conspicuous  even  when  not  in 
flower  owing  to  the  mossy  appearance  of  its  foliage  which  is  further 
enhanced  on  the  appearance  of  the  flowers,  which  are  pure  white, 
of  fine  form  and  substance.  The  whole  plant  does  not  exceed  12 
inches  in  height.  E.  v.  alba  and  E.  v.  alba  minor  partly  convey 
in  the  names  their  general  description.  Argentea  has  beautiful  silvery 
foliage,  and  aurea  golden.  On  a  first  acquaintance  with  the  last 
named  one  might  be  forgiven  for  assuming  that  the  plant  was  in 
an  unhealthy  condition,  the  appearance  from  a  little  distance  being 
a  sickly  yellow  colour  in  the  foliage.  Cuprea  possesses  a  distinct 


THE   HEATH   GARDEN  185 

bronzy  foliage,  which  is  more  pronounced  in  winter  than  in  summer. 
The  variety  flore  plena  should  not  be  omitted,  as  its  double  red 
flowers,  having  a  silvery  sheen,  are  very  attractive.  The  plant  is  free- 
flowering,  with  a  compact  habit.  A  few  other  varieties  of  vulgaris 
worthy  of  mention  are  decumbens  alba,  tomentosa  alba,  hypnoides,  pilosa^ 
pygmea,  and  rigida.  These  are  of  slow  growth,  and  are  better  adapted 
for  the  rock  garden  than  the  Heath  garden.  Having  disposed  of  the 
principal  varieties  of  Erica  vulgaris^  those  remaining  are  generally  a 
little  later  in  flowering,  and,  with  one  or  two  exceptions,  are  not 
recommended  for  planting  in  large  quantities. 

The  Dorset  Heath  (E.  dliaris),  however,  makes  a  very  effective 
mass  about  a  foot  in  height,  bearing  pale  red  flowers,  coming  in  a  little 
later  than  E.  vulgaris. 

E.  cinerea,  sometimes  designated  the  Scotch  Heath,  embraces  a  fair 
number  of  dwarf-growing  plants,  rarely  exceeding  12  inches  high,  and 
mostly  of  red  and  purple  shades.  The  type  is  represented  by  a  neat 
little  plant  of  about  9  inches  high,  with  purple  flowers  shading  to 
lilac.  Alba  and  alba  major  are  the  only  white  forms  we  have  noted, 
the  former  being  a  facsimile  of  the  type,  except  in  colour,  the  major 
form  being  slightly  larger  and  later.  Atropurpurea  (9  inches),  afro- 
sanguinea  (6  inches),  cocdnea  (6  inches),  purpurea  (9  inches),  rosea 
(9  inches),  and  rubra  (6  inches),  are  appropriately  described  in  the 
names  they  bear.  Spicata  is  perhaps  the  tallest  of  this  section,  bearing 
long  spikes  of  a  dull  red,  showing  somewhat  dingy  when  placed  beside 
those  already  named. 

A  rather  curious  specimen  is  found  in  E.  scoparia,  the  flowers  of 
which  are  of  a  greenish  hue  ;  the  plant  attains  a  height  of  about  2  feet, 
and  the  flowers  are  distributed  unevenly  on  longish  spikes. 

The  Corsican  Heath  (E.  stricta)  forms  a  large  bush  about  3 
feet  in  height,  and  possesses  more  of  an  upright  habit  than  any  of  the 
genus.  Its  foliage  is  also  especially  attractive,  particularly  in  the 
earlier  stages  of  growth ;  the  flowers  are  a  pale  red  colour,  and  are 
borne  near  the  terminals  of  the  shoots. 

With  E.  maweana,  a  dwarf-growing  variety,  rarely  more  than  9  inches 
in  height,  and  having  flowers  of  a  rich  purplish  red,  which  are  usually 
at  their  best  in  the  month  of  October,  we  would  close  our  list  of  hardy 
Heaths;  but  another  very  interesting  genus  belonging  to  the  same 
Natural  Order  is  found  in  Menziesia,  and  which  is  usually  included 
among  the  Heaths,  having  a  similar  habit  and  succeeding  under  the 
same  treatment. 

The  Irish  Heath  (Menziesia  polifolia^  syn.  Dab&da  polifolia^  the 
St.  Dabeoc's  Heath,  and  perhaps  better  known  as  Irish  Heath)  is  a 
very  pretty  plant,  and  quite  as  hardy  and  as  free-growing  as  any  of  the 
Heaths.  There  is  a  purple  and  also  a  white  variety  each  about  a  foot 
in  height  and  of  upright  growth  ;  the  foliage  is  attractive,  being  a  glossy 
green  above  and  white  beneath.  The  individual  flowers  are  larger  than 
any  of  the  Ericas,  and  are  drooping,  the  white  form  being  very  pretty. 


THE    LAWN:    ITS    FORMATION    AND 

MANAGEMENT 


FEW  gardens  are  without  grass  of  some  kind.  To  call  this 
11  grass"  in  all  cases  a  lawn  is  incorrect.  Many  lawns  are 
patches  of  bad  turf,  but  everyone  appreciates  the  close,  deep 
green  "velvet  pile"  that  good  seed  and  good  management 
will  give. 

In  Forming  a  New  Lawn  the  ground  must  be  carefully 
prepared.  An  open,  level  piece  is  preferable,  but  where  this 
is  not  obtainable  the  soil  must  be  removed  from  the  highest  to 
the  lowest  parts  until  the  surface  is  quite  level.  If  the  ground 
is  wet  and  retentive,  drain  pipes  3  inches  in  diameter  should 
be  laid  in  2\  feet  deep,  each  row  of  pipes  being  12  feet  apart. 
These  will  carry  off  the  surface  water.  The  pipes  must  have 
a  gentle  fall,  and  be  connected  with  a  cross  main  drain  with 
a  safe  outlet. 

The  ground  must  be  well  dug  to  a  depth  of  18  inches 
or  2  feet,  and  if  poor,  enriched  with  well-decayed  farmyard 
manure.  Digging  completed,  tread  and  rake  the  surface, 
finally  well  rolling  it  to  make  it  firm.  Where  the  natural  soil 
is  not  of  sufficient  depth  more  must  be  added,  and  it  should 
be  wheeled,  not  "carted,"  on  to  the  plot,  as  the  cartwheels 
make  hard  ruts,  and  where  the  soil  subsides  an  uneven  surface 
is  left.  Planks  should  be  laid  down  for  wheeling  on.  The 
surface  soil  to  a  depth  of  3  or  4  inches  should  be  of  a 
rather  fine  character,  as  the  seed  germinates  more  quickly 
and  the  grass  gets  a  better  start  in  such  a  medium  than  in  one 
of  an  opposite  nature.  In  any  case  several  weeks  ought  to 
elapse  after  preparing  the  soil  before  sowing  the  seed  to 
allow  the  new  soil  to  settle  down.  The  quickest  and  probably 
the  best  means  of  securing  a  good  lawn  is  by  covering  the 
plot  with  grass  sods,  but  unless  they  are  of  first-rate  quality,  the 
more  common  method  of  sowing  lawn  grass  seed  should  be 
resorted  to.  The  sods  may  be  laid  down  any  time  during 
fine  weather  from  October  to  April ;  if  laid  later,  they  are 
apt  to  suffer  from  drought  during  a  dry  spring.  From  ij 

to  2  inches  is  a  good  thickness  for  the  turves,  and  they 

186 


THE   LAWN  187 

should  be  laid  close  together,  and  afterwards  well  rolled  at 
intervals  throughout  the  winter — exceptwhen  sodden  or  frozen. 
If  all  goes  well,  the  grass  will  commence  to  grow  freely  in 
April,  at  which  time  the  surface  should  be  well  swept  with  a 
stiff  broom  in  order  to  remove  all  stones  and  rubbish,  which, 
if  allowed  to  remain,  would  cause  injury  to  the  mowing- 
machine  or  scythe.  Allow  the  grass  a  little  grace  to  encourage 
root  action  before  mowing  it  for  the  first  time,  and  if  the 
spring  be  hot  and  dry,  once  a  fortnight  will  be  sufficient  to 
mow  during  April  and  May.  If  possible,  the  lawn  should  be 
rolled  every  time  it  is  mown  during  the  first  summer. 

Sowing  Grass  Seed. — If  grass  seed  is  sown,  obtain  it  from 
a  reliable  firm,  because  some  samples  contain  a  large  percen- 
tage of  plantain  and  other  rubbish.  A  fair  sample  of  the  soil 
should  be  submitted  to  the  seedsman,  who  will  then  supply  a 
seed  mixture  suitable  for  it.  April  and  September  are  the  best 
months  for  sowing,  and  the  quantity  of  seed  required  is  from 
J  Ib.  to  i  Ib.  to  the  rod,  or  from  3  to  6  bushels  to  the  acre. 
Well  tread  or  roll  the  surface,  and  sow  the  seed  quickly 
broadcast,  afterwards  raking  it  well  in  with  a  coarse  toothed 
rake  and  again  rolling.  As  chaffinches  and  small  birds  are 
fond  of  grass  seeds,  it  will  be  advisable  to  give  it  protection 
until  the  plants  make  their  appearance.  Covering  with  old 
fish  netting,  raised  on  sticks  a  few  inches  from  the  soil,  is 
best.  When  the  grass  is  in  active  growth,  give  a  moderate 
dressing  of  an  approved  fertiliser,  of  which  there  are  several 
on  the  market,  whilst  the  ground  is  moist  with  rain.  When 
the  grass  has  grown  3  or  4  inches  high  cut  and  roll  it.  Lawns 
that  soon  suffer  from  hot  sun,  owing  to  the  soil  being  shallow 
or  sandy,  should  receive  a  liberal  dressing  of  fine  soil  and 
artificial  manure  annually.  Mix  the  manure  with  the  soil,  and 
spread  it  evenly  over  the  surface,  about  J  inch  thick,  in  January 
or  early  in  February.  Rain  will  then  wash  in  the  manure  and 
most  of  the  soil,  and  if  the  grass  is  well  swept  and  rolled  early 
in  April,  previous  to  mowing,  its  density  will  be  increased  and 
the  quality  improved.  Where  the  soil  is  fairly  deep  and  good 
the  turf  will  remain  in  good  condition  for  an  indefinite  period, 
if  well  attended  to,  but  on  shallow,  hungry  soil  it  wears  out 
in  time,  even  if  top-dressed  annually.  The  only  course  then 
open  is  to  remove  the  soil  to  a  depth  of  at  least  12  inches, 
replace  it  with  the  best  soil  procurable,  and  after  levelling 
and  rolling,  either  turf  it  over  or  sow  it  with  the  finest  lawn 
seed.  When  good  soil  and  seed  are  used,  few  daisies,  plantain, 
and  other  weeds  occur.  Grass  seeds  can  hardly  be  sown  too 
thickly  for  making  new  or  renovating  old  lawns.  For  light  or 


1 88  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

shallow  soil  it  is  advisable  to  mix  a  fair  quantity  of  clover  with 
the  grass  seed,  as,  being  of  dense  growth,  it  prevents  the 
surface  soil  from  becoming  parched.  Where  lawns  are 
required  for  playing  on,  however,  the  clover  is  best  left  out  as 
it  wears  black. 

Weeds. — Daisies  and  other  wreeds  should  be  eradicated. 
Bentley's  lawn  sand,  if  applied  according  to  printed  directions 
sent  with  each  bag  or  tin,  is  a  potent  destroyer  of  them. 
Daisies  may  also  be  dug  up  with  an  old  knife.  Previous  to 
commencing  this  operation  stretch  two  garden  lines  across 
the  lawn  3  feet  apart,  then  work  between  them ;  fill  up 
the  holes  that  the  daisies  are  taken  from  with  fine  soil,  which 
should  be  beaten  firmly  into  them.  The  bare  places  will  then 
soon  be  covered  with  grass.  If  daisies  are  numerous  dig 
them  up  early  in  April,  and  after  the  holes  have  been  filled 
up,  a  slight  dressing  of  artificial  manure  and  fine  soil  should 
be  given. 

Mowing  is  an  operation  that  requires  considerable  judg- 
ment. As  a  rule  early  April  is  the  best  time  to  begin,  and 
if  the  grass  is  dense  and  vigorous  it  may  be  mown  once  a 
week.  On  the  other  hand,  if  thin  and  weak,  once  in  ten  days 
or  a  fortnight  will  be  often  enough.  If  possible  always  mow 
the  grass  when  dry,  for  if  mown  when  wet  it  never  looks 
well,  and  wet  grass  also  clogs  and  strains  the  machine.  For 
lawns  of  large  extent  horse  or  pony  machines  are  necessary, 
but  leather  boots  must  be  placed  on  the  animal's  feet  to  pre- 
vent them  from  cutting  into  the  turf.  For  small  lawns  use 
hand  machines.  Before  commencing  to  mow  in  spring  the 
edges  of  the  lawn  should  be  well  rolled,  and  an  inch  cut  off 
them  with  an  edging  knife. 

Where  practicable  a  good  supply  of  water  should  be  laid 
on  in  close  proximity  to  the  lawn,  in  order  that  it  may  be 
\vell  wratered  in  dry  weather  by  means  of  a  hose.  A  verdant 
lawn  is  beautiful  and  restful,  and  may  be  made  to  remain  so 
by  employing  a  little  cheap  labour  each  year,  and  by  giving 
an  annual  dressing  with  fine  soil  and  an  approved  fertiliser. 

Worms  are  a  great  nuisance  on  lawns,  particularly  where 
it  is  desired  to  play  tennis,  croquet,  or  bowls.  Most  seedsmen 
now  supply  a  powder  worm-killer  which,  if  applied  according 
to  the  directions  supplied  with  it,  will  free  a  lawn  of  worms 
for  a  year.  For  small  areas  of  grass  lime  water  may  be  used. 
Place  |  peck  of  lime  in  a  wooden  tub,  add  8  gallons  of  water, 
well  stir  and  then  allow  to  stand  until  the  water  becomes 
quite  clear.  The  grass  must  be  well  soaked  with  this  clear 
lime  water,  preferably  during  the  evening  of  a  damp,  warm 


THE   LAWN  189 

day.      Larger    quantities    can,    of    course,    be    prepared    in 
proportion. 

The  size  of  a  tennis  court  is  as  follows  :  Full  length,  78  feet : 
width,  27  feet ;  net  to  be  in  the  centre  and  extend  3  feet  over 
each  side  of  the  court,  3!  feet  high  at  the  ends,  and  3  feet  high 
in  the  centre.  Service  lines  21  feet  from  the  net  on  each  side. 


THE   TREATMENT  OF   LAWN   TENNIS   COURTS 
IN   WINTER 

The  following  article  by  Mr.  Peter  Lees  is  included  here 
because  the  methods  advocated  can  be  advantageously  applied 
to  lawns  of  all  kinds  : 

"  As  soon  as  the  playing  season  is  over,  the  groundsman  should  at 
once  set  about  renovating  the  worn-out  parts,  and  where  the  turf  has  been 
subjected  to  so  much  wear  and  tear,  fresh  turf  must  of  necessity  be  laid 
down.  I  am  frequently  called  in  to  advise  as  to  this  work,  and  I  must 
say  that  I  am  surprised  sometimes  that  the  greenkeeper  in  charge 
should  advise  the  importation  of  turf  that  is  quite  unsuitable  for  the 
purpose,  as,  when  it  is  put  down,  its  texture,  compared  with  the  other 
turf  on  the  courts,  is  quite  different,  and  during  the  whole  of  the  next 
season,  until  it  gets  worn  bare  again,  looks  out  of  place,  with  the  result 
that  the  court  looks  very  bad  indeed. 

"  To  remedy  this  I  would  advise  all  lawn-owners  to,  if  possible,  patch 
the  bare  and  worn  parts  from  the  sides  and  ends  of  the  ground  outside 
the  playing  area,  and  returf  this  part  or  sow  down  with  turf  as  near  as 
possible  to  the  same  texture  as  the  court  itself,  as  with  careful'attention 
this  can  be  easily  worked  up  during  the  season — as  there  is  no  play  on 
it — to  almost  the  same  condition  as  the  turf  on  the  court.  Another 
point  in  regard  to  this  turfing  of  the  ends,  which  must  of  necessity  be 
done  year  after  year,  is  this  :  the  soil  below  must  be  removed  from  time 
to  time  and  fresh  soil  substituted,  otherwise,  no  matter  how  good  the 
turf,  the  results  will  be  found  to  be  very  disappointing  indeed.  This 
returfing  should  be  carried  out  as  soon  as  possible  after  the  courts  are 
closed  for  the  season,  so  as  to  enable  the  fresh-laid  turf  to  get  well 
'  knit '  together  for  the  next  season's  play. 

"  All  inequalities  or  hollows  should  be  raised,  and  the  best  way  to 
do  this  is  by  simply  folding  back  the  turf,  not  cutting  it  clean  out,  filling 
up  to  the  desired  level,  and  replacing  the  turf  again.  By  folding  or 
rolling  back  the  turf,  the  number  of  joints  are  lessened  and  a  better  job 
is  made. 

"The  Best  Top-Dressing. — After  this  work  has  been  carried  out, 
the  whole  green  or  court  should  be  top-dressed  with  a  dressing  of  good 
mould  (not  sand)  and  well-rotted  manure,  mixed.  This  dressing 


1 90  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

should  be  well  rubbed  in,  and  on  no  account  allowed  to  lie  on  the 
surface. 

"  Worms  In  the  Soil. — Remove  all  worms  from  the  soil,  as  a  true 
playing  surface  is  absolutely  impossible  when  they  are  allowed  to 
burrow  and  throw  up  their  casts  all  over  the  surface.  By  their  removal 
a  firm,  true,  clean,  and  level  surface  is  obtained,  which  could  never  have 
been  got  if  they  had  been  allowed  to  remain  in  the  soil.  It  may,  to 
some  people,  seem  like  heresy  when  I  say  remove  the  worms,  as  it  has 
always  been  held  that  worms  are  the  natural  drainers  of  the  soil,  and 
that  if  they  are  removed  the  ground  will  become  waterlogged  and  the 
turf  die  out ;  but  this  idea  is  all  wrong,  and  I  have  proved  it  so.  I 
strongly  advise  the  removal  of  every  worm  if  possible.  The  most 
effective,  simple,  safe,  and  non-poisonous  worm  eradicator  I  have  found 
is  that  supplied  by  Messrs.  James  Carter  &  Co. 

"Mowing. — I  now  come  to  a  very  important  part  of  the  winter 
treatment  of  the  grass  on  a  tennis  court,  or,  indeed,  of  any  lawn, 
namely,  mowing  and  rolling.  I  shall  take  the  case  of  the  mowing 
first,  as  I  consider  it  the  most  important.  There  is  a  mistaken  idea 
that  if  the  grass  is  kept  cut  short  during  the  winter  months,  the  frost 
and  cold  will  surely  kill  it.  Now,  I  wish  to  point  out  that  this  is  all 
wrong,  and  I  strongly  advise  the  mowing  of  the  grass.  When  I  say 
this,  I  mean  that  it  ought  not  to  be  allowed  to  grow  any  longer  than 
what  it  was  in  the  playing  season ;  in  other  words,  keep  it  as  close  as 
possible  and  always  mow  when  it  requires  it,  as  it  will  harden  the  grass, 
make  it  thicken  out,  and,  when  the  playing  season  comes  round,  the 
surface  will  be  a  great  deal  more  truer  and  firmer  from  the  commence- 
ment. If,  on  the  other  hand,  the  grass  is  allowed  to  grow  without 
being  mown,  it  will  get  thin,  and  when  the  spring  comes  the  greenkeeper 
has  practically  to  set  about  doing  his  best  to  manufacture  a  new  playing 
surface. 

"Rolling  in  Winter.— The  other  point  is  rolling,  and  this  is 
hardly  less  important  than  the  mowing.  How  often  does  one  see, 
after  heavy  rain,  the  iron  roller  at  work  for  all  it  is  worth  to,  if  you 
ask,  make  a  nice,  smooth  surface !  A  good  piece  of  turf  can  very 
easily  be  ruined  by  the  injudicious  use  of  the  roller,  especially  during 
the  wet  winter  months.  I  have  seen  lawns  and  tennis  courts — which  I 
have  been  told  a  few  years  before  were  in  perfect  condition — that  had 
got  into  a  very  bad  state  indeed,  and  this  has  nearly  always  been 
caused  to  a  great  extent  through  using  too  heavy  a  roller  and  also 
using  it  at  the  wrong  time.  Never,  especially  in  winter,  roll  the  grass 
with  a  heavy  iron  roller  when  the  surface  is  wet,  as  it  is  simply  ruination 
to  the  lawn.  Keep  the  grass  cut  short,  and  roll  when  the  surface  is 
dry  (not  wet)  if  a  good,  clean  piece  of  turf  is  desired.  The  foregoing 
hints  are  what  I  practise  myself,  and  which  I  find  the  most  suitable 
for  what  is  aimed  at — a  true,  firm  carpet  of  turf." 


T 


^6  ft- 


OF  /I   SINGLE  AND   DOUBLE 
LAWN  TENNIS  COURT. 


?•'££  , 
A    SUBURBAN   FLOWER    GARDEN^  (E  A  LING). 


TOWN    GARDENING 


GARDENING  in  towns  and  their  neighbourhood  is  hampered 
by  conditions  which  the  dweller  in  the  pure  country  air  knows 
nothing  of,  but  gardening  may  be  pursued  with  pleasure  even 
in  the  suburbs  of  London  and  the  great  towns  of  the  midlands, 
where  many  a  mechanic  grows  his  special  favourites  with 
consummate  skill,  sufficiently  so  to  make  even  his  country 
friends  envious  of  his  well-deserved  success.  Success  depends 
of  course  upon  individual  effort.  The  man  who  will  not  try 
cannot  succeed.  He  bewails  his  lot  amidst  smoke  and  dirt, 
raves  against  (and  with  reason)  the  domestic  cat,  and  even 
levels  abuse  at  the  tiny  heads  of  the  chirping  sparrows.  But 
with  reasonable  attention  to  details  and  a  proper  choice  of 
subjects  the  town  garden  should  be  gay  with  blossom  for 
many  months. 

One  cannot  remedy  the  impure  air,  although  the  atmos- 
phere of  a  large  town  or  its  surroundings  is  not  so  disastrous 
to  plant  growth  as  many  imagine.  The  atmosphere  is  fre- 
quently blamed  when  the  cultivator  is  really  at  fault  in  not 
trenching  the  soil  well,  and  in  filling  the  garden  with  hungry 
rooting  shrubs  bent  upon  extracting  every  ounce  of  goodness 
from  beds  and  borders.  Perhaps  a  description  of  a  garden  in 
which  flowers,  and  even  fruits  and  vegetables,  have  been  suc- 
cessfully grown,  may  give  fresh  courage  to  those  who  have 
hitherto  reaped  nothing  but  failure.  Mr.  Woodall,  a  well- 
known  gardener,  who  "  gardens  "  for  his  own  pleasure,  writes  : 
"  Few  things  are  more  depressing  to  the  average  man  than 
the  dismal  aspect  of  a  neglected  back-garden  in  a  town  of 
considerable  size.  Such  a  plot  came  under  my  notice  not 
long  ago,  and,  under  judicious  and  careful  arrangement,  it 
has  in  a  very  short  time  proved  such  a  pleasure  that  I  think 
some  details  may  be  of  use  to  those  who  find  themselves 
possessors  of  such  a  potential  '  Eden/  As  is  usually  the 
case  in  all  ordinary  town  gardens,  the  area  is  about  three 
times  as  long  as  it  is  wide — in  this  case  containing  quite  a 
third  of  an  acre — surrounded  by  sooty  brick  walls  devoid  of 

any   climber  whatever.      The  ground  is  quite  flat  and  the 

191 


192  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

soil  strong  clay,  which,  however,  had  once  been  well  worked. 
On  the  ground  stand  two  dilapidated  and  dark  old  glass- 
houses ;  one  a  vinery  facing  south  with  a  somewhat  raised 
Vine  border  long  disused  ;  the  other  house,  a  span  roof,  near 
the  eastern  wall  of  the  garden.  A  few  poor  trees  outside  at 
one  corner  give  the  only  touch  of  greenness  to  the  space 
within. 

"  The  first  idea,  to  cut  up  the  ground  into  three  squares,  one 
for  flowers,  one  for  vegetables,  and  one  for  reserve  ground, 
was  abandoned,  both  on  account  of  its  ugliness  and  also  be- 
cause it  did  not  afford  scope  for  a  grass  walk  with  flowers  at 
each  side  and  a  seat  in  shelter,  which  was  the  cherished  wish 
of  the  new  possessor.  At  last  it  was  decided  to  make  a  broad 
gravel  walk  across  the  width  of  the  garden  at  the  far  end,  and 
heighten  the  old  Vine  border  so  as  to  obtain  a  southern  slope. 
The  entrance  to  the  garden  is  at  the  south-west  corner,  and 
the  greenhouse  stands  midway  on  the  eastern  side,  projecting 
into  the  ground.  This  afforded  an  opportunity  to  destroy  the 
formality  of  the  long  strip  by  making  a  broad  grass  walk  from 
the  entrance  diagonally  across  the  ground  into  the  angle 
between  the  greenhouse  and  the  garden  wall.  This  walk,  7 
feet  broad,  was  sunk  quite  3  feet  into  the  ground  by  the 
steps  at  the  entrance,  and  rose  gradually  to  the  ground-level 
at  the  other  end.  The  clay  and  soil  taken  out  were  used  to 
raise  the  beds  on  either  side  and  make  an  even  slope  to  the 
path  as  it  rose  to  the  level.  At  a  distance  of  about  12  feet 
from  the  grass  path  a  hedge  of  Olearia  Haastii  and  red  and 
white  double  Japanese  Rosa  Rugosa  was  planted  to  screen  off 
the  reserve  and  vegetable  plots  from  the  decorative  part  of  the 
garden.  By  this  means  two  broad  borders  were  obtained 
having  different  aspects,  and  at  the  upper  end  a  very  warm 
and  sheltered  corner  was  formed  for  tender  plants,  while  at 
the  lower  end  by  the  door  two  fair-sized  triangles  were  dug 
out  of  the  clay  to  form  a  drainage  to  the  sloping  walk,  and  at 
the  same  time  afford  a  moist  and  shady  nook  where  some 
hardier  bog  plants  and  flowers  might  thrive. 

"Towards  the  upper  end  a  narrow  gravel  path  was  cut 
through  the  bank  round  the  end  of  the  greenhouse  which 
joined  the  broad  terrace  walk  at  the  foot  of  the  Vine  border, 
and  afforded  on  the  side  near  the  greenhouse  a  suitable  place 
for  a  seat  where  the  flower  borders  might  be  seen.  Four  Bay 
trees  in  tubs  (which  find  shelter  in  winter  in  the  disused  vinery) 
protect  the  seat  from  the  neighbours  by  means  of  striped 
awnings  tied  from  stem  to  stem. 

"  After  this  rough  blocking  out  of  the  flower  garden  the  next 


TOWN   GARDENING  193 

thing  was  to  plant  it,  and  to  harden  one's  heart  against  unsuit- 
able things,  however  lovely  and  desirable  they  might  be  in 
themselves.  I  am  not  sure  that  in  the  long  run  there  is  not 
some  advantage  in  being  unable  to  grow  many  things,  as  the 
best  effects  are  always  attained  by  simple  means. 

"  Roses  are  forbidden  in  a  town  garden,  except  the  in- 
valuable Rosa  rugosa  and  its  varieties,  but  the  extra  vigorous 
R.  wichuraiana  does  well.  Its  corymbs  of  sweet  white  little 
flowers  in  August  and  September  are  most  delightful,  and 
its  glossy  neat  foliage  an  ornament  to  any  garden.  Some  of 
the  newer  and  vigorous  hybrid  teas  might  also  be  included. 
Conifers  are  quite  useless,  and  so  is  any  evergreen  that  is 
sooty  and  black  like  some  of  the  varieties  of  the  Holly. 

"  On  the  other  hand,  Carnations  and  Pinks  thrive  extremely 
well,  so  broad  masses  of  them  adorn  this  walk,  and  a  bed  of 
seedlings  in  the  reserve  plot  affords  a  long  succession.  Yuccas, 
Tritonias,  Lilies,  and  tall  Composites  form  a  stately  background 
to  the  usual  semi-hardy  bedding  plants  and  annuals,  and  Sweet 
Peas,  Mignonette,  and  Sweet  Geraniums  afford,  with  Coreopsis 
and  various  Composites,  plenty  of  bloom  for  cutting,  even 
though  their  fragrance  may  not  equal  that  of  those  grown  in 
country  air.  Irises  of  all  sorts,  and  especially  Gladioli,  are  as 
happy  as  possible,  and  Dahlias  are  bright  and  useful  till  the 
sun  gets  hidden  behind  the  tall  houses  near,  and  causes  an 
early  collapse  in  autumn. 

"  The  Walls  of  a  Town  Garden  are  always  a  trouble.  In  this 
instance  they  were  so  dismally  sooty  and  black  that  the  only 
thing  to  do  was  to  whitewash  them  all ;  and  a  precious  busi- 
ness it  was  to  obtain  anything  like  a  clean  surface  !  But  no 
sooner  was  it  done  than  the  way  the  plants  responded  to  the 
increased  light  and  lessened  dry  baking  heat  in  the  summer 
was  wonderful,  and  proved  it  was  the  right  thing.  Trifles  can 
make  or  mar,  and  I  am  inclined  to  think  this  trifle  made  a 
great  deal  of  the  success  in  this  town  garden. 

"  There  is  one  decided  advantage  in  a  town  garden,  and 
that  is  the  greater  freedom  from  frost,  so  that  many  shrubs 
will  live  there  that  would  perish  in  frostier  situations.  So 
the  walls  where  the  sun  lingered  longest  were  planted  with 
Choisyas,  Laurustinus,  Jasmines,  variegated  Euonymus,  Es- 
callonias,  and  many  another  flowering  shrub  and  climber, 
including  Clematises  in  variety,  and  they  are  all  doing  well 
and  looking  as  they  should  do — ornamental. 

"  The  plague  of  caterpillars  so  common  in  town  gardens  in 
the  early  autumn  does  not  affect  any  of  these.  On  the  shady 
sides,  the  simple  plan  of  planting  tall  Oval-leaved  Privet  and 

N 


194  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

sowing  climbing  Nasturtiums  to  climb  over  and  between  was, 
of  course,  adopted,  and  Aucubas,  Aralia  Sieboldi,  Megasea, 
and  Funkias  formed  handsome  masses  of  solid  foliage,  till  in 
two  years'  time  this  garden  has  become  as  full  of  interest  and 
beauty  as  it  was  desolate  and  barren  before,  and  a  wonder  to 
those  whose  knowledge  was  not  equal  to  their  love." 

Much  that  is  written  in  this  work  applies  with  equal  force 
to  the  town  garden  as  well  as  the  garden  in  the  country, 
especially  with  regard  to  the  greenhouse  and  its  management, 
window-boxes,  and  plants  in  rooms. 

Absence  of  Light  and  Tree  Planting. — One  of  the  great  draw- 
backs to  town  gardening  is  the  absence  of  light.  Suburban 
and  town  streets  are  frequently  over-planted  with  trees,  which 
cast  their  shadows  over  road  and  pavement,  create  damp  path- 
ways, and  shut  all  sun  and  air  from  the  dwelling  itself — pre- 
cious life-giving  agents,  without  which  no  home  is  wholesome. 
Never  shut  out  the  sunshine  by  erecting  a  large  greenhouse  or 
by  planting  trees  in  such  a  way  as  to  throw  shadows  into  the 
living  rooms.  Frequently  Horse  Chestnuts,  Limes,  Planes, 
and,  in  truth,  forest  trees  are  planted  close  to  a  small  house. 
The  garden,  perhaps,  is  lined  with  Poplars,  or  things  as  vigor- 
ous and  tall  in  growth,  with  the  result  that  the  soil  of  the 
garden  is  full  of  hungry  roots,  plants  refuse  to  behave  respect- 
ably, and  the  house  itself  is  dark  and  unhealthy.  Nothing  of 
tall  growth  should  be  planted  near  the  suburban  house,  and 
there  is  no  reason  why  things  fit  only  for  the  forest  should 
enter  the  forecourt  of  a  suburban  residence,  and  we  have  in 
mind  now  small  houses  and  gardens,  not  even  those  in  which 
space  is  provided  for  a  tennis  court  or  spacious  lawn.  Under 
these  conditions  Quinces,  masses  of  Lavender  and  Rosemary, 
Siberian  Crabs,  Medlars,  Thorns  may  be  grown,  and  any  of 
the  beautiful  deciduous  flowering  things  of  moderate  stature 
recorded  in  our  chapter  upon  Trees  and  Shrubs,  the  Almond, 
Rose  Acacia,  Catalpa  (even  this  is  too  large  as  a  rule),  the 
Silver  Birch,  where  it  will  succeed,  Paulownia  imperialis, 
Guelder  Rose,  Laburnum,  Fig,  A  ilantus  glandulosa,  Flowering 
Currants,  Ribes  sanguinea  and  its  varieties,  especially  atro- 
sanguinea,  the  flowers  of  which  are  deep  crimson  ;  the  Pyruses, 
not  forgetting  the  delightful  dwarf  growing  Pyrus  Malus  flori- 
bunda,  one  of  the  most  charming  dwarf  shrubs  in  existence ; 
Daphne  Mezereum  or  the  Mezereon,  and  the  varieties  of 
Weigela  (Diervilla),  one  of  the  best  of  which  is  Eva  Rathke. 

The  Weigelas  are  amongst  the  best  of  town  shrubs.  The 
writer  has  seen  the  crimson-flowered  variety  Eva  Rathke  quite 
happy  even  in  a  Chelsea  garden,  where  against  a  southern 


TOWN   GARDENING  195 

fence  the  shrub  blossoms  with  great  freedom  until  the  late 
autumn.  Euonymus  japonicus  and  its  varieties,  all  evergreen, 
are  useful,  and  also  of  note  are  the  Aucuba,  Lilacs,  the  Sumach 
(Rhus),  Arbutus  Unedo  (the  Strawberry  Tree),  unless  the  garden 
is  very  exposed  ;  Rhododendrons,  Laurustinus  (in  warm 
sheltered  gardens),  Cotoneaster frigida,  C.  Simonsi,  the  sprawling 
deep  green-leaved  evergreen  C.  microphylla,  the  Wistaria,  and 
the  familiar  Maple  and  its  variegated  variety  (Ager  Negundo 
variegata).  Hollies,  Magnolias,  common  Barberry  (Berberis 
vulgaris),  especially  the  early-flowering  M.  conspicua  (Yulan) 
are  a  success.  We  have  also  seen  very  healthy  Yews,  but  as 
a  rule  anything  of  this  nature  and  Conifers  are  a  complete 
failure,  soot  or  fogs  clogging  up  the  shoots  and  producing 
suffocation.  One  of  the  most  frequently  planted  things  is 
the  Fiery  Thorn  (Cratcegus  Pyracanthd),  conspicuous  for  its 
bunches  of  creamy  white  flowers  in  summer  and  its  crimson 
fruits  throughout  the  autumn  and  winter.  This  should  never, 
however,  be  placed  against  red-bricked  houses  ;  the  effect  is 
distressing  to  those  who  pride  themselves  upon  an  apprecia- 
tion of  beautiful  colour  association. 

The  aim  of  the  town  gardener  should  be  to  get  away  from 
the  eternal  repetition  of  a  few  things.  There  is  joy  in  variety. 
Privet  is  repeated  with  sickening  regularity  ;  the  suburbs  smell 
of  Privet,  and  a  dead  sense  of  colouring  oppresses  every  one 
who  knows  how  bright  and  gladsome  is  the  garden  planted 
with  things  that  bring  beauty  to  it  through  their  flowers, 
foliage,  or  ruddy  fruits  in  winter.  Get  out  of  the  well-beaten 
tracks.  Seek  further  afield  than  the  local  nurserymen,  and 
revel  amongst  the  Thorns,  the  Lilacs,  the  Magnolias,  and  many 
other  beautiful  families  of  trees  and  shrubs — things  that  will 
give  a  new  beauty  to  the  town  garden. 

It  is  unnecessary  to  describe  in  this  chapter  how  trees  and 
shrubs  should  be  planted.  The  advice  already  given  about 
planting  in  general  applies  in  this  case,  but  the 

Soil  will  probably  need  more  stirring  up  in  the  town  garden 
than  in  the  country.  Read  carefully  the  remarks  about  trench- 
ing, manures,  and  so  forth,  pp.  375-383,  and  carry  them  fully 
into  practice.  A  town  garden  when  presented  to  the  owner 
fresh  from  the  builders  hands  is  frequently  a  sorry  affair.  The 
soil  has  been  denuded  of  its  precious  gravel,  if  it  possessed 
any,  and  is  filled  with  brickbats  and  refuse  of  a  miscellaneous 
character  that  must  be  removed  in  the  interests  of  the  flowers 
that  are  to  follow  in  due  season.  It  is  labour  well  spent  to 
make  a  sure  foundation.  Trench  the  soil  thoroughly,  and  if 
poor,  bring  in  plenty  of  loam  and  road  scrapings. 


196  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

The  majority  of  gardens  are  rectangular,  they  follow  the 
lines  of  the  house  ;  and  usually  a  border  at  the  sides  and  grass 
in  the  middle  suffice,  without  any  needless  cutting  up  of  the 
middle  into  small,  patchy  beds.  Keep  away  all  shrubs,  espe- 
cially such  things  as  Elder,  from  the  borders.  It  is  not  always 
possible  to  do  this,  but  unless  the  roots  of  trees  and  shrubs  are 
kept  out  of  the  soil  where  perennials  are  to  go,  endless  atten- 
tion in  the  way  of  mulching  and  manuring  will  be  needful 
during  the  late  spring  and  summer. 

Hardy  Perennials. — The  sheet  anchor  of  the  beginner  in 
gardening  is  the  hardy  perennial,  which  requires  no  lifting  in 
the  winter  to  shelter  it  from  the  frost,  and  comes  up  again 
each  season  to  again  give  pleasure  to  the  possessor.  The 
writer  has  had  considerable  experience  with  town  gardens, 
and  can  place  faith  in  border  Auriculas,  sweet-scented,  finely- 
coloured  flowers,  so  gay  and  green  that  even  a  strong  tuft 
will  almost  flower  itself  to  death  ;  and  again  it  may  be  men- 
tioned that  everything  referred  to  here  is  alluded  to  in  some 
part  of  the  present  book,  so  that  a  detailed  description  is  need- 
less here.  Campanulas,  or  Canterbury  Bells,  in  rich  variety  of 
form  and  colour  ;  Creeping  Jenny  (Lysimachia  nummularia), 
Day  Lilies  (Hemerocallis)  for  shady  places,  Dielytra  spectabilis, 
Larkspurs,  or  Perennial  Delphiniums,  Evening  Primrose 
(CEnothera  biennis),  and  some  of  the  other  QEnotheras,  such  as 
(E.fruticosa  and  the  rich  orange-flowered  Fraseri ;  Everlasting 
Peas,  Spiderwort  (Tradescantia),  Phloxes  of  good  colours, 
London  Pride,  Papaver  umbrosum,  delightful  for  edgings  ; 
Michaelmas  Daises,  Oriental  Poppy  {Papaver  orientate,  and  its 
variety  bracteatum),  Primroses,  Polyanthuses,  Snapdragons, 
Wallflowers,  Sweet  Williams,  double  and  single  Pyrethrums, 
Thrift,  Solomon's  Seal,  Anemone  japonica  and  its  beautiful 
white  variety  alba,  also  known  as  Honorine  Joubert ;  Arabts 
albida  (White  Rock  Cress),  Alyssum  saxatile  (Rock  Mad- 
wort),  with  rich  yellow  flowers  ;  Aquilegia  hybrids,  particu- 
larly the  beautiful  spurred  varieties  ;  Aubrietias,  dwarf  plants 
for  edging  the  border,  or  forming  groups  near  the  front ; 
Cerastium  tomentosum  (silvery  foliage),  Carnations,  Pinks, 
Doronicums,  early-flowering  perennials  with  large,  handsome 
yellow  flowers — D.  plantagineum  excelsum  is  the  finest ;  Gypso- 
phila  paniculata,  wavy  masses  of  flowers ;  German  Iris, 
Lupines,  Golden  Rods  (Solidago),  Forget-me-nots,  Crimson 
Paeony,  many  kinds  of  Saxifrage,  especially  Saxifraga  hyp- 
noides,  and  the  large  leathery-leaved  Megaseas,  Stonecrops, 
Sempervivums,Tuf  ted  Pansies,  Monkshood  (AconitumNapellus), 
Campanula  glomerata  dahurica  (with  deep  purple  flowers) ;  C. 


THE  WHITE  JAPANESE    WINDFLOWER  (ANEMONE  JAPON1CA 

ALBA}. 


TOWN   GARDENING  197 

persicifolia,  early-flowering  Chrysanthemums,  Coreopsis  grandi- 
Jlora,  Helenium  autumnale,  Erigeron  speciosus  superbus ;  the 
perennial  Sunflowers  (Helianthus) — the  last-mentioned  are 
quite  happy,  sending  up  a  wealth  of  golden  flowers  through- 
out the  autumn  months ;  Hieracium  aurantiacum  (one  of  the 
Hawkweeds),  with  warm  brownish  orange-red  flowers ; 
Hollyhocks,  Lychnis  chalcedonica,  Montbretia  crocosmiceflora  (in 
a  warm  soil  and  sunny  place),  Pentstemons,  a  host  in  them- 
selves, but  are  not  very  hardy  ;  and  Rudbeckia  Newmani.  This 
is  a  respectable  list,  and  will  provide  a  good  selection.  All  will 
grow  in  almost  any  situation  and  in  any  reasonably  good  soil. 

Bulbs. — The  town  gardener  should  place  faith  in  bulbous 
flowers,  which  seem  little  upset  by  stuffy  surroundings.  They 
should  be  grown  liberally  indoors,  in  window-boxes,  and  in 
the  open.  True,  they  deteriorate  more  quickly  than  those  in 
more  airy  gardens,  but  bulbs  are  cheap,  and  therefore  quickly 
replaced  at  a  reasonable  outlay.  Daffodils  are  invariably  a 
success  for  two  years,  when  the  ground  has  been  carefully 
prepared  and  they  are  planted  at  the  proper  time,  viz.  in 
September  or  quite  early  October.  A  Ilium  Molyy  yellow,  and 
A.  neapolitanum  the  writer  has  seen  become  almost  weeds. 
The  autumn-flowering  Amaryllis  Belladonna  will  thrive  in  a 
sunny,  warm,  south  border,  preferably  against  a  wall,  and 
other  good  things  are  the  pretty  little  Chionodoxas  of  spring, 
Crocuses,  Crown  Imperials  (Fritillaria  imperialist  Snowdrops, 
Galtonia  candicans  (late  summer  flowering ;  it  has  a  tall  spike, 
with  snowdrop-like  flowers),  Spanish  and  English  Irises  (always 
a  success  and  very  cheap),  Lilies,  Grape  Hyacinths  (Muscari), 
Scillas,  particularly  the  late  spring-flowering  5.  hispanica  or 
campanulata,  Triteleia  umflora,  and  Tulips.  These,  also,  are 
not  particular  as  to  soil  and  situation. 

Annual  Flowers. — These  should  be  made  excellent  use  of. 
Seeds,  even  those  saved  from  the  finest  flowers,  are  very  cheap, 
and  therefore  sown  so  thickly  that  the  results  are  disappoint- 
ing. Neither  attempt  too  much,  nor  sow  a  preponderance  of 
one  thing,  so  that  it  monopolises  the  garden  to  the  exclusion 
of  everything  else.  The  Sweet  Pea  should  be  well  represented 
by  groups  of  one  variety,  say  mauve,  white,  rose,  and  so  forth, 
colours,  of  course,  most  agreeable  to  the  possessor  of  the 
garden.  Tropaeolums  (Nasturtiums)  are  very  bright  and  use- 
ful for  cutting,  but  they  must  not  be  allowed  too  rich  soil. 
Mignonette  is  welcome  for  its  grateful  perfume,  so  too  is  the 
night-flowering  Stock.  The  following  is  a  short  list  of  a  few 
good  annuals  for  a  town  garden  :  Marigold  (but  only  a  few ; 
it  is  a  terrible  weed,  if  so  bright  and  wholesome  looking  a 


198  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

flower  can  be  described  in  this  way),  Celosias,  from  seed 
sown  under  glass  in  spring;  Aster  sinensis,  a  handsome,  tall, 
purple  single  flower ;  one  of  the  China  Asters  (sow  seed  in 
heat  in  spring),  Chrysanthemum  tricolor,  the  beautiful  major 
and  minor  Convolvuluses,  Coreopsis,  Chinese  and  Indian 
Pinks,  the  old-world  Extinguisher-flower  (Eschscholtzia), 
Gypsophila  elegans,  Everlastings  (if  they  are  cared  for),  Lupines, 
Mignonette,  the  blue  Nemophila,  Love-in-a-mist  (Nigella), 
Poppies  (these  are  very  beautiful,  especially  the  "  Shirley " 
kinds,  but  they  must  be  well  thinned),  Phlox  Drummondii, 
Salpiglossis,  Scabious,  Stocks  (these  should  be  freely  planted 
for  colour  and  perfume),  Sweet  Peas,  Foxgloves  (biennial), 
Verbenas,  Virginian  Stock,  and  Zinnias,  quaint  flowers  of 
various  colours,  raised  in  heat  in  spring. 

Summer  Flowers. — When  the  garden  boasts  a  little  green- 
house, many  plants  known  as  "  bedders  "  can  be  raised,  but 
this  is  only  possible  where  artificial  warmth  can  be  given 
during  the  winter.  Many  town  gardens,  and  others  for  that 
matter,  are  rendered  bright  chiefly  through  the  agency  of 
summer  bedding  plants,  the  "Geraniums,"  or  Zonal  Pelar- 

foniums  as  they  should  be  called,  Tuberous  Begonias, 
innias,  Dahlias,  Ageratums,  Celosias,  the  China  Asters, 
dwarf  Lobelias,  the  Tobaccos,  especially  the  sweet-scented 
Nicotiana  affinis  and  the  newer  N.  sylvestris,  which  has  white 
tubular  flowers  which  do  not  flag  or  close  up  under  a  hot 
sun  as  in  the  case  of  N.  affinis;  Petunias,  very  successful  in 
town  gardens,  bright  flowers  of  many  colours — sow  seed  in 
spring  under  glass  ;  Verbenas,  easily  raised  in  gentle  heat 
in  spring,  and,  if  very  large  plants  are  required,  Cannas  (not 
usually  very  happy  near  towns),  and  such  big-leaved  things 
as  the  Castor-oil  Plant.  As  a  rule,  however,  exclude  every- 
thing of  tall  spreading  growth,  otherwise  the  garden  will 
contain  nothing  else,  and  before  the  summer  is  half  over  be 
a  choked  place  full  of  unruly  growths  and  struggling  vegeta- 
tion, all  striving  for  the  mastery,  and  a  hunting-ground  for 
slugs  and  snails. 

Climbers. — The  beginner  is  frequently  perplexed  as  to  the 
Climbers  to  select  for  the  wall  of  the  house  or  to  clamber  over 
a  summer-house  or  arch.  All  the  following  will  thrive  in 
reasonably  good  soil.  Of  annuals  the  Japanese  Hop  is  re- 
markably vigorous.  Seed  sown  in  March,  or  even  in  early 
April,  will  result  in  plants  that  will  clamber  over  trellis  or 
summer-house  in  one  season.  Climbing  Tropseolums  (Nas- 
turtiums), Convolvuluses,  or  the  Canary  Creeper,  with  light 
green  growth  and  bright  yellow  flowers,  are  available.  This 


TOWN   GARDENING  199 

is  called  Tropceolum  peregrinum.  Of  permanent  Climbers  the 
Ivy  is  the  most  satisfactory  if  occasionally  cut  hard  back  in 
spring,  removing  almost  every  leaf  ;  and  of  deciduous  kinds  the 
Virginian  Creeper  is  safe.  The  kind  that  clings  most  tightly 
to  the  wall  is  called  muralis ;  it  is  not  so  well  known  as 
Veitchi,  but  is  freer,  the  growths  being  close  to  the  wall  with- 
out that  excessively  rigid  character  conspicuous  in  a  Veitchi. 
When  the  garden  is  not  in  the  centre  of  a  town,  but  a  few 
miles  (say  five)  outside,  of  course  the  list  of  plants  that  may 
be  grown  is  more  extensive.  Against  the  south  wall  may  be 
planted  the  beautiful  Ceanothus  azureus,  which  will  reach 
almost  to  the  chimney  stack,  a  surface  of  delightful  blue 
flowers  in  summer  ;  the  Winter  Sweet  (Chimonanthus  fragrans 
grandiflorus)y  which  bears  pale  lemon-coloured  deliciously 
fragrant  flowers  upon  its  leafless  shoots  in  winter ;  the  ever- 
green but  not  very  hardy  Mexican  Orange-flower  (Choisya 
ternata],  the  handsome  big-leaved  Dutchman's  Pipe  (Aristo- 
lochia  Sipho\  Clematis  Jackmani,  C.  montana,  which  also  suc- 
ceeds against  a  fence,  a  vigorous  climber  with  a  profusion  of 
white  flowers  in  late  spring ;  the  Vine,  not  omitting  the 
Japanese  Vine  ( Vitis  Coignetice))  with  its  immense  leaves  dyed 
crimson  with  colour  in  autumn  ;  the  pretty,  warmth-loving 
Eccremocarpus  scaber ;  White  Jasmine;  Kerria  japonica  fl.  pi. 
(the  double  orange-flowered  Jews'  Mallow),  often  very  beautiful 
over  cottage  fronts,  the  winter-flowering  Jasminum  nudiflorum> 
Honeysuckles,  Passion-flower  (the  ordinary  Passiflora  ccerulea 
is  more  beautiful  to  the  writer  than  the  white  Constance 
Elliott),  and  Roses. 

History  of  a  Small  Town  Garden. — The  following  account  of 
a  small  garden  in  the  suburbs  (west  and  in  Thames  valley), 
and  about  three  miles  from  the  Marble  Arch  will  show  how 
much  may  be  accomplished  in  quite  a  small  way  when  suitable 
plants  are  obtained  and  spare  time  is  given  ungrudgingly.  In 
this  case,  however,  the  possessor  of  the  garden  was  much  occu- 
pied with  his  official  pursuits  and  many  evenings  occasionally 
went  by  when  little  work  was  possible  :  "  My  garden  is  small, 
in  a  crowded  suburb,  and  when  taken  possession  of  presented 
the  usual  picture  of  despair.  It  was  in  truth  not  a  garden  at 
all,  but  a  small  plot  fresh  from  the  builders'  hands.  The 
builder  had  busied  himself  in  eloping  with  the  rich  gravel 
subsoil  and  substituting  refuse  of  a  varied  kind.  The  ground 
was  taken  possession  of  in  September,  trenched,  good  soil 
substituted  for  bad,  levelled,  and  before  the  autumn  had  far 
advanced  planted  with  a  few  things  known  to  prove  impervious 
to  the  vicissitudes  of  suburban  life.  I  have  pursued  the  healthy 


200  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

pastime  of  amateur  gardening  for  many  years,  and  lived  once 
in  serener  climes,  but  was  at  first  overcome  by  this  spectacle 
of  builders'  rubbish  and  unholy  filching  of  good  soil. 

"  I  noticed  that  many  good  garden  plants  seemed  to  thrive 
in  the  district.  In  a  garden  near,  perennial  Sunflowers  shone 
with  a  wealth  of  golden  blossom,  the  Starworts  tossed  their 
cool-coloured  flowers  in  the  autumn  wind,  and  the  Sweet  Peas 
still  carried  a  few  fragrant  blossoms.  So,  the  foundation  having 
been  made,  plants  were  put  in,  too  soon,  unfortunately,  as  it 
afterwards  happened — no  fault  of  the  plants — that  the  borders 
sank,  and  I  had  perforce  to  remake  and  then  relift  everything. 

"All  the  things  named  have  succeeded  beyond  my  very 
moderate  expectations.  The  forecourt  garden  (in  dense 
shade,  the  house  being  placed  almost  direct  north  and  south), 
was  laid  down  with  turf,  and  a  narrow  border  made  all  round, 
with  a  Yew  hedge  against  the  boundary  fence,  and  for  trees, 
Silver  Birch  (a  beautiful  tree,  which  is  a  success  in  the  light 
soil  of  the  neighbourhood),  Thorn,  Rose  Acacia  (Robinza 
hispida),  and  a  large  green-leaved  Holly.  In  the  small  border 
skirting  the  house  are  planted  the  shade-loving  Spanish  Scilla, 
Day  Lilies,  Crocuses,  and  Snowdrops,  all  a  success,  but  the 
Winter  Aconites  are  always  poor.  Their  puny  little  yellow 
flowers  would  scarce  cover  a  small  button,  so  the  Eranthis  will 
in  the  future  go  on  the  black  list.  For  climbers,  Ampelopsis 
Veitchi,  muralis,  Rose  W.  A.  Richardson,  but  this  being  placed 
on  the  sunny  side  of  the  house  the  flowers  get  bleached  by 
the  hot  sun  beating  against  the  wall,  and  lose  their  rich 
Apricot-like  tint ;  Gloire  de  Dijon,  a  never  disappointing  rose  ; 
Alister  Stella  Gray,  a  perfect  vision  of  exquisite  orange  buds, 
and  whitish  expanded  flowers  ;  Passion-flower,  Honeysuckles, 
and  in  the  border  the  fragrant  Lavender  and  Rosemary,  two 
shrubs  so  picturesque  and  interesting  in  colour  that  I  wish 
amateur  gardeners  would  grow  them  more.  The  common 
Lavender  should  never  be  omitted  from  the  garden,  whether 
small  or  large.  My  bushes  are  in  a  little  hot  border,  upon 
which  the  sun  shines  fiercely,  and  the  soil  is  light.  Here  this 
fragrant  blue-flowered  bush  delights  to  grow,  spreading  out 
into  a  soft  silvery  group,  and  giving  quite  a  handful  of  flowers 
in  the  autumn  for  the  house.  These  should  be  gathered  when 
the  buds  are  about  half-open,  not  waiting  until  they  expand. 
It  is  pleasant  to  see  a  China  rose  thrusting  its  flowery  shoots 
into  the  Lavender  bush ;  it  is  a  happy  flower-marriage.  In 
the  same  warm  light  border  revels  the  Rosemary,  a  shrub 
filled  with  fragrance  and  delighting  in  sunshine. 

"Borders  run  round  the  three  sides  of  the  back  garden, 


TOWN   GARDENING  201 

which  faces  almost  due  south,  a  favourable  and  pleasant 
position.  Grass  occupies  the  centre,  a  grateful  and  refresh- 
ing setting  to  the  flower  masses  encircling  it,  and  under  the 
pantry  window  is  a  narrow  border,  if  it  can  be  so  called, 
of  light  soil ;  the  position  is  in  full  sun.  Here  revel  many 
things  in  good  loaming  soil,  the  beautiful  little  early  Irises, 
/.  alata  and  others,  and  the  early-flowering  coloured  Gladioli 
are  quite  at  home.  I  have  never  seen  the  bulbs  happier 
even  in  the  south  of  England,  and  one  year  Crinum  Moorei 
flowered  superbly.  Of  course,  Crocuses,  Scillas,  the  splendid 
Gesner  Tulips,  and  Daffodils  are  a  success.  When  Tulipa 
gesneriana  is  fully  open  in  the  blazing  sunshine  this  is  in 
truth  a  place  of  colour.  Against  the  wall  Roses  are  planted 
— Gloire  de  Dijon,  Alister  Stella  Gray,  and  Mme.  Berard 
Roses,  with  a  plant  also  of  Choisya  ternata  and  Passion-flower 
Constance  Elliott.  The  left-hand  border,  looking  down  the 
garden,  is  filled  with  many  things — annuals,  such  as  Sweet 
Peas,  Mignonette,  Tufted  Pansies,  Day  Lilies,  Carnations, 
Pinks,  and  other  homely  English  flowers,  the  majority  of 
which  are  quite  well  known.  How  well  Carnations  succeed  ! 
The  old  crimson  Clove  gave  handfuls  of  bloom ;  but  even 
better  was  Uriah  Pike  (what  a  name  !),  a  vigorous  variety, 
with  firm  tall  stems  and  large  crimson-coloured  fragrant 
flowers.  This  kind  should  be  noted  by  all  town  gardeners. 
The  old  white-fringed  Pink  was  very  beautiful  too.  I  had 
an  edging  of  White  Pinks,  but  alas,  wireworms  consumed 
many ;  and  this  reminds  me  that  new  loam  or  the  top  spit 
from  a  pasture  should  always  be  most  carefully  examined, 
as  it  is  frequently  full  of  wireworms.  A  friend  planted 
an  edging  about  30  yards  long  of  White  Pinks,  brought  in 
new  soil  to  give  them  a  start,  and  the  wireworms  consumed 
three  parts  of  the  entire  margin  of  silvery  tufts.  In  this 
left-hand  border  plants  flourish  amazingly ;  even  Roses, 
particularly  the  Tea-scented  Edith  Gifford,  the  beautiful 
hybrid  Tea,  Viscountess  Folkestone,  Mme.  Charles,  and  the 
lovely  Alfred  Carriere,  which  has  large,  loosely  formed,  pure 
white  flowers  filled  with  sweet  scent.  Against  the  fence 
the  winter-flowering  Jasminum  nudiflorum  is  very  beautiful 
throughout  a  mild  winter.  It  is  covered  over  with  blossom, 
so  rich  in  colour  and  fragrant ;  the  green  leafless  shoots  are 
crowded  with  buds  in  winter,  and  these  when  cut  for  the 
house  open  perfectly  in  water.  A  tall  vase  with  Jasminum 
nudiflorum  shoots  is  very  pretty  and  refreshing  in  winter. 
No  climber  flowering  in  winter  is  more  valuable  in  the  town 
garden  than  this ;  it  is  impervious  to  soot  and  dirt  generally. 


202  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

"The  border  at  the  lower  end  of  the  garden  is  in  the  shade 
of  a  row  of  Poplars  and  tall  houses  near.  Ivies  cover  the  fence 
with  a  dense  covering,  and  in  the  border  itself  the  Day  Lilies 
flourish,  whilst  last  summer  the  crimson  Phlox,  Etna,  flowered 
well.  Scilla  campanulata  (the  Spanish  Scilla)  increases,  and 
Polyanthuses,  Tuberous  Begonias,  and  Irises  are  at  home  too. 

"  The  German  or  Flag  Iris  is  one  of  the  most  important  of 
town  garden  flowers.  True  its  flowering  time  is  not  of  long 
duration,  but  the  silvery-toned  sword-like  leaves  are  always 
pleasant  to  see,  and  there  is  great  variety  of  flower  colouring. 
The  plants  succeed  even  in  the  shade,  and  may  be  put  in 
during  the  spring  or  in  the  autumn,  but  perhaps  the  best 
time  is  immediately  after  flowering.  There  is  something  satis- 
fying in  colonies  of  German  Irises,  especially  the  blue  varieties, 
Atropurpurea,  Purple  King,  or  Black  Prince.  Where  space 
admits  a  garden  of  summer  Irises  may  be  made,  but  in  the 
ordinary  border  may  be  grown  in  large  clumps  the  best  of 
the  group,  beginning  in  May  with  the  old  blue  German. 
This  is  quickly  followed  by  the  white-grey  Iris  of  Florence. 
My  favourites  are  Mme.  Chereau,  white,  feathered  with  laven- 
der ;  Queen  of  May,  rose  and  lilac ;  Pallida  Dalmatica,  a  tall 
kind  with  beautiful  pale  blue  flowers ;  Victorine,  rich  purple, 
and  white  ;  and  the  ordinary  Blue  Flag,  so  familiar  in  English 
gardens.  The  German  Flag  will  grow  even  upon  a  London 
railway  bank,  but  is  worth  a  layer  of  manure  beneath  the 
roots,  not  in  contact  with  them,  at  planting  time. 

"The  border  by  the  gravel  path  is  margined  with  stone, 
which  is  now  almost  covered-with  Stonecrops,  Saxifrages,  and 
Creeping  Jenny ;  whilst  near  the  drawing-room  window,  in  a 
border  running  to  the  steps,  English  and  Spanish  Irises  are 
planted  alternately.  Nothing  in  the  whole  range  of  bulbous 
plants  gives  more  pleasure  than  the  beautiful  colouring  of 
these  two  groups.  The  pure  colours  of  the  Spanish  Iris  are 
irresistible,  and  if  my  garden  were  larger,  I  should  form 
colonies  of  them,  in  amongst  shrubs,  anywhere,  to  get  the 
full  value  of  their  exquisite  shades.  The  bulbs  are  so  cheap 
that  they  ought  to  be  freely  planted  in  every  garden.  The 
English  Iris  blooms  about  a  fortnight  later,  and  has  flowers 
in  which  the  segments  are  broader  and  flatter  than  those  of 
the  Spanish  Iris.  Of  course  the  '  English '  Iris  is  not  a 
native,  but  comes  from  Spain  and  the  Pyrenees ;  it  probably 
obtained  its  popular  name  through  the  bulbs  having  first  come 
to  Bristol  and  thence  were  transferred  to  Holland.  The 
Dutch  merchants,  thinking  the  plant  was  a  native  of  these 
isles,  named  it  the  '  English  '  Iris — a  sad  misnomer. 


TOWN   GARDENING  203 

"General  Hints. — I  think  my  letter  has  exceeded  all  reason- 
able bounds,  but  a  few  general  hints  that  I  have  found 
produce  good  results  in  town  gardening  may  be  given. 
During  warm  summer  evenings  after  a  hot  day,  syringe  the 
plants  gently.  This  is  very  refreshing  and  helpful.  Stir  the 
soil  occasionally  to  prevent  < caking'  of  the  surface.  This 
surface  stirring  lets  in  light  and  air  to  the  roots.  When 
watering  do  so  thoroughly.  Never  dash  the  hose  upon  any- 
thing and  everything.  Cut  the  flowers  freely,  especially  of 
such  things  as  annuals,  which  quickly  collapse  when  seed  pods 
are  allowed  to  form,  some  more  so  than  others.  Poppies  and 
Sweet  Peas  are  of  brief  duration  when  called  upon  to  bear  a 
double  burden.  Of  course  watch  for  slugs  and  snails.  Never 
leave  refuse  about,  and  in  the  management  of  the  lawn  always 
keep  the  grass  moderately  short.  It  is  a  mistake  to  have  a 
thorough  lawn  cutting  at  stated  intervals  ;  long  grass  is  diffi- 
cult to  cut  and  the  machine  suffers.  With  regard  to  cats,  I 
wish  some  one  would  give  me  a  remedy.  It  is  impossible  to 
surround  the  garden  with  loosely  fixed  wire-netting  ;  perhaps 
a  good  terrier  is  the  best  preventive. 

"Keeping  Plants  in  Winter. — When  the  garden  boasts  of  a 
greenhouse,  it  is  easy  to  accommodate  the  Pelargoniums, 
Dahlias,  Tuberous  Begonias  and  other  tender  summer  plants 
during  the  winter.  When  the  first  frost  has  spoiled  their 
beauty,  lift  them,  and,  in  the  case  of  Geraniums,  pot  them 
up,  but  Dahlias,  after  the  soil  has  been  removed  from  the 
tubers,  may  be  stowed  away  under  the  stages.  Corms  of 
Tuberous  Begonias  should  be  stored  in  silver  sand,  and  put 
away  in  a  dry  place.  Dahlias  and  Begonias  may  be  stored  in 
a  frost  proof  cellar,  and  where  there  is  no  greenhouse,  shake 
the  soil  from  the  roots  of  Geraniums  or  even  Fuchsias,  and 
hang  the  plants  head  downwards  from  a  peg  or  a  beam.  Some 
will  die,  but  many  will  live,  and  start  away  in  the  spring,  when 
they  can  be  potted. 

"  I  think  I  must  have  exceeded  my  limit,  and,  in  conclusion, 
give  this  advice  to  town  gardeners,  that  success  only  comes 
when  the  gardener  tries  to  understand  the  flowers  he  professes 
to  love.  Failures  are  the  result  usually  of  a  languid  interest 
in  a  healthy  and  fascinating  pastime  to  those  who  try  to 
learn  something  themselves  of  the  flower  world  about  them. 
I  have  written  nothing  about  fruits  and  vegetables,  but  the 
remarks  upon  the  cultivation  of  these  in  other  parts  of  this 
book  apply  to  the  town  garden.  As  a  rule,  however,  there  is 
no  space  for  the  culture  of  either." 


GOOD   TREES   AND   SHRUBS 

THERE  are  now  so  many  beautiful  trees  and  shrubs  available 
for  garden  decoration  that  it  has  become  difficult  for  those 
who  are  not  intimately  acquainted  with  them  to  make  a  suit- 
able selection.  Therefore  in  the  following  list  only  those  kinds 
which  are  of  the  greatest  beauty  and  usefulness  are  mentioned, 
but  all  those  enumerated  are  adapted  for  small  gardens  as 
well  as  for  those  of  pretentious  dimensions. 

During  the  last  twelve  years  a  great  many  new  trees  and 
shrubs  have  been  introduced,  and  the  opportunity  has  been 
seized  of  including  a  number  of  the  more  useful  ones  with  the 
older  and  better-known  kinds  which  were  included  in  the  first 
edition  of  this  work. 

In  gardens  where  a  representative  collection  of  trees  and 
shrubs  is  grown  there  is  something  of  interest  to  see  throughout 
the  year.  For  during  the  earlier  days  of  January  several  showy 
and  interesting  plants  are  at  their  best,  and  it  is  only  necessary 
to  allude  to  the  quaint  blossoms  of  the  various  Hamamelis, 
the  fragrant  flowers  of  Lonicera  fragrantissima  and  L.  Stan- 
dishiiy  the  golden  beauty  of  Jasminum  nudiflorum  and  the 
fragrant  blossoms  of  the  Winter  Sweet,  Chimonanthusfragrans, 
to  remind  one  of  the  variety  to  be  obtained  at  that  early 
period. 

Before  the  flowers  of  these  are  well  over  we  find  Garrya 
elliptzcaj  the  Mezereon,  early  Heaths,  the  common  Dogwood, 
and  various  other  shrubs  coming  into  bloom,  to  be  closely 
followed  by  Forsythias,  other  Heaths,  Spiraeas,  Magnolias, 
Berberis,  Plums,  and  Cherries,  and  many  other  choice  plants, 
until  during  May  and  June  we  reach  the  climax  with  Rhodo- 
dendrons and  Azaleas,  which  form  perhaps  the  most  brilliant 
display  of  all,  although  the  various  garden  Lilacs  flowering 
about  the  same  time  run  them  close  for  popularity.  From 
the  end  of  June  onwards  the  number  of  shrubs  in  flower 
decreases,  but  some  continue  right  on  to  late  autumn,  when 
the  early  subjects  take  their  places. 

Another  feature  which  is  worth  considering  in  connection 

with  trees  and  shrubs  is  the  bright  colour  of  the  bark  of 

204 


GOOD  TREES  AND   SHRUBS  205 

certain  kinds,  which  is  seen  to  advantage  during  winter. 
Cornus  alba,  with  red  bark  ;  Salix  alba  vitellina  and  5.  a.  cardi- 
nalisj  with  golden  and  red  bark  respectively  ;  Rubus  biflorus,  R. 
lasiostylus,  and  R.  Giraldianus  are  conspicuous  by  reason  of 
their  white  bark ;  Philadelphus  Lemoinei  has  bright  brown 
bark  ;  Ltycesteriaformosa,  green  bark,  and  so  on. 

Then  the  decorative  value  of  various  coloured-leaved  trees 
and  shrubs  needs  consideration,  for  by  the  judicious  grouping 
of  these  kinds  excellent  effects  are  produced.  Here  the  various 
Japanese  Maples  show  up  strongly;  and  the  purple  Nuts, 
Plums,  and  Berberis,  the  Silver  Atriplex,  Santolina,  Acer  Ne- 
gundo,  and  Euonymus  are  as  important  as  the  golden-leaved 
Catalpa,  Golden  Nut,  Elderberries,  and  Euonymus ;  whilst 
numerous  other  plants  of  a  like  nature  may  be  obtained. 

The  popularity  of  the  pergola  has  made  it  possible  to 
cultivate  climbing  plants  to  a  greater  extent  than  formerly, 
and  every  garden  may  have  its  ornamental  Vines,  Clematises, 
Climbing  Brambles,  Roses,  and  Honeysuckles. 

The  forcing  of  trees  and  shrubs  for  greenhouse  and  con- 
servatory decoration  in  spring  has  made  rapid  strides  of  late 
years,  and  the  cultivation  'of  plants  for  this  purpose  alone 
has  become  a  very  important  business.  Hence,  in  whichever 
way  one  turns,  one  is  confronted  with  the  important  part 
played  by  trees  and  shrubs  in  the  modern  garden,  and  it  will 
be  clearly  recognised  that  the  beginner  in  gardening  must  be 
prepared  to  give  the  subject  his  keenest  attention. 

Propagation. — The  propagation  of  hardy  trees  and  shrubs 
is  work  of  great  interest,  yet  it  is  not  only  much  neglected 
but  imperfectly  understood  by  amateurs.  It  is  essential  to 
raise  young  plants  constantly  to  replace  those  which  become 
unsightly,  die  out  from  old  age,  get  too  big  for  certain  posi- 
tions, or  must  be  removed  for  some  purpose.  A  knowledge 
of  the  different  methods  of  propagation  is  of  great  value. 
Keen  observation  and  great  patience  are  necessary  in  one 
who  aspires  to  become  a  successful  propagator. 

There  are  various  ways  by  which  the  object  referred  to 
can  be  attained,  and  the  enthusiastic  amateur  should  be 
master  at  least  of  some  of  them.  When  he  finds  that  it  is 
desirable  to  increase  the  stock  of  some  choice  kind,  the  im- 
portance of  knowing  the  proper  season  and  the  best  means 
of  doing  so  cannot  be  overestimated.  It  is  also  pleasant  to 
raise  one's  own  plants. 

The  principal  methods  of  increasing  trees  and  shrubs 
are — (i)  seeds,  (2)  cuttings,  (3)  budding,  (4)  grafting,  (5)  layer- 
ing, and  (6)  root  cuttings. 


206  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

7.  By  Seeds. — This,  of  course,  is  the  most  natural  means  of 
reproduction.  All  seed  cannot  always  be  relied  upon  to  re- 
produce its  kind,  in  which  case  recourse  is  generally  had  to 
one  or  other  of  the  methods  referred  to.  Artificial  heat  in  the 
raising  of  seedlings  is  in  many  cases  necessary,  particularly  in 
the  case  of  plants  with  rather  tender  constitution,  and  there- 
fore the  question  of  a  propagating  house,  heating  apparatus, 
soil,  drainage,  and  so  forth  must  be  considered. 

In  nurseries  where  trees  and  shrubs  are  made  a  specialty 
of,  houses  devoted  entirely  to  the  production  of  plants  are 
common  enough,  and  the  one  that  finds  most  favour  is  a 
low,  span-roofed  house,  placed  beyond  the  influence  of  cold 
winds.  A  walk  down  the  centre,  with  cases  and  movable 
lights  along  one  side,  answers  admirably,  the  other  side  being 
left  free  for  plants.  Hot-water  arrangements  should  be 
ample,  and  the  ventilation  so  arranged  that  little  damage  will 
ensue  even  in  bad  weather.  The  door  should  face  south  or 
south-west,  as  cold  currents  of  air  rushing  into  the  house  are 
injurious  to  tender  growth.  It  will  be  found  convenient  to 
divide  the  frame  into  two,  three,  four,  or  more  partitions,  as 
the  heat  can  be  kept  more  uniform  and  easily  confined  than 
would  be  the  case  were  fewer  or  no  partitions  introduced. 
Hot-water  pipes  should  rest  in  a  tank  of  water  beneath  the 
bed,  and  the  tank  should  never  be  allowed  to  get  dry. 

It  is  important  that  seeds  should  not  be  harvested  too 
early,  but  allowed  to  hang  upon  the  trees  and  bushes  until 
they  are  quite  mature.  Badly  ripened  seeds  cannot  be  ex- 
pected to  produce  good  results.  All  seeds  should  be 
thoroughly  cleaned  before  sowing,  some  being  surrounded 
by  fleshy  matter,  and  others  encased  in  shells  varying  in 
thickness  and  hardness  according  to  the  kind.  Some  seeds, 
like  that  of  single-flowered  Roses,  should  be  sown  immedi- 
ately they  are  ripe. 

When  and  How  to  Sow. — Broadly  speaking,  the  best  time  to 
sow  the  bulk  of  tree  and  shrub  seeds  under  glass  is  towards 
the  end  of  February  and  beginning  of  March,  as  the  seed  will, 
in  the  majority  of  cases,  germinate  quickly,  and  with  proper 
care  good  plants  will  result  before  winter.  Clean  pans,  boxes, 
or  shallow  pots  are  best  adapted  for  sowing  seeds  in,  and 
the  soil  used  should  be  light,  sweet,  and  moist,  but  not  wet. 
Drainage  is  of  the  utmost  importance,  because  if  this  becomes 
clogged  and  the  water  cannot  pass  away  freely,  the  soil  gets 
sour,  and  consequently  the  seeds  fail  to  vegetate.  Over  the 
drainage  place  a  layer  of  coarse  turf,  covering  this  with  rough 
soil,  and  filling  up  with  finer  compost,  which  should  have  been 


GOOD   TREES   AND   SHRUBS  207 

under  cover  a  day  or  so  before  sowing.  Sow  the  seed  thinly, 
and  just  cover  it  with  soil  that  has  been  passed  through  a  very 
fine  mesh  sieve.  This  remark  applies  to  all  very  minute  seeds 
falling  under  the  tree  and  shrub  portion  of  this  work.  Larger 
seeds,  of  course,  do  not  require  such  particular  attention. 
After  sowing,  the  pans  should  be  immediately  placed  in 
position  in  the  house  or  frame,  where  they  are  to  remain 
until  the  seedlings  push  their  way  through  the  soil,  the  latter 
always  being  watered  with  a  very  fine  rose  water-pot.  Water 
given  to  seed  pans  should  be  "  lukewarm."  It  is  a  capital 
plan  to  place  tiffany  or  similar  thin  material  over  the  seed 
pans,  as  this  breaks  fierce  light  upon  the  surface  soil,  and  also 
prevents  excessive  evaporation. 

When  the  seedlings  are  large  enough  to  handle,  prick  them 
off  into  suitable  soil,  and  later  on  remove  to  a  cold  frame,  so 
as  to  harden  off  ready  for  planting  out  in  nursery  rows.  If 
transferred  to  the  open  ground  while  growth  is  being  made, 
much  benefit  will  result  from  occasional  overhead  waterings 
until  the  roots  are  able  to  take  up  nourishment  from  the 
fresh  soil.  When  a  spell  of  hot,  dry  weather  follows  planting, 
feathery  boughs  placed  over  the  plants  to  protect  them  from 
the  sun  will  be  of  great  assistance  until  they  are  established. 

Seeds  Sown  out  of  Doors. — In  the  first  place,  the  position 
the  seed-beds  are  to  occupy  must  be  considered.  These 
should  be  thoroughly  well  drained,  and  raise  them  just  above 
the  level  of  the  surrounding  ground.  The  soil  should  be  in 
good  workable  order,  as  probably  some  seeds  will  remain  in 
the  ground  eighteen  months  or  two  years  before  germination. 
The  surface  soil  should  be  fine  and  quite  level,  and  if  drought 
follows  the  sowing,  frequent  waterings  through  a  fine  nozzled 
hose  or  rose  water-pot  will  be  beneficial. 

Seeds  are  usually  sown  broadcast  in  beds,  four  feet  wide, 
with  alleys  about  16  inches  wide  between  them,  and  occasion- 
ally in  rows  or  drills,  the  distance  between  the  rows  varying 
from  8  inches  to  a  foot.  Then  certain  kinds  of  trees — 
Carya  or  Hickory,  Walnut,  and  others  of  similar  character, 
possessing  long  tap  roots  and  few  fibres,  are  generally  better 
for  being  sown  in  positions  where  the  trees  are  intended  to 
remain  permanently.  Birds  and  vermin  are  often  responsible 
for  considerable  damage  to  seeds ;  the  first-named  can  be 
kept  off  by  nets,  and  traps  settle  the  latter.  Seed-beds  should 
always  be  kept  free  from  weeds,  which,  if  allowed  to  grow 
unchecked  and  perfect  their  seeds,  become  troublesome  and 
rob  the  ground  of  nourishment  required  for  the  seedling 
trees  and  shrubs. 


208  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

Conifer  Seeds. — Conifers,  the  cones  of  which  are  in  some 
instances  very  hard,  need  special  attention  before  the  seed 
can  be  separated  from  them.  The  cones  of  some  species  are 
ready  to  gather  in  about  twelve  months,  but  others  should 
not  be  taken  off  the  trees  for  two  years.  Cones  should  be 
kept  in  a  warm,  dry  place  to  liberate  the  seeds.  With  sun 
and  artificial  heat  the  scales  open  more  readily,  and  opening 
is  also  facilitated  by  soaking  them  in  water  for  a  day  or  so, 
and  by  burying  them  in  sand,  &c.,  in  February  or  March  for 
six  weeks  or  two  months,  by  which  time  the  seeds  may  be 
liberated  and  taken  out  with  comparative  ease.  Hard  cones 
are  often  placed  in  kilns  to  get  them  to  open  quickly.  If  the 
last-named  method  be  adopted,  sow  the  seed  immediately  it 
is  set  free,  or  it  will  soon  loose  its  germinating  power.  The 
seed  in  the  cones  remains  good  for  several  years,  provided 
the  scales  are  not  opened,  and  when  sown  out  of  doors, 
March  and  April  are  the  best  months  for  the  purpose. 

Conifer  seeds  vary  much  in  size,  and  it  is  curious  that 
some  of  the  loftiest  members  of  the  family  produce  the 
smallest  seed.  For  instance,  that  of  the  Mammoth  Tree  of 
California,  Sequoia  giganteay  is  smaller  than  the  seed  produced 
by  many  shrubs  less  than  four  feet  high.  Seed  should  only 
be  collected  from  trees  that  are  thoroughly  healthy  and  vigo- 
rous, as  seedlings  raised  from  seed  taken  from  weakly  trees 
are  liable  to  disease. 

As  a  rule,  Seedling  Conifers  are  rather  slow  in  growth  for 
the  first  two  or  three  years,  but  with  proper  attention,  reason- 
able progress  is  made  afterwards.  When  the  seedlings  are 
of  sufficient  size,  lift  them  out  of  the  seed-beds,  and  plant  in 
suitable  soil  in  nursery  rows,  protecting  them  from  the  sun 
with  small  spruce  branches,  until  they  have  established  them- 
selves in  their  fresh  quarters. 

Some  Conifers  make  better  specimens  raised  from  seeds 
than  raised  from  cuttings  or  by  grafting.  To  illustrate 
what  we  mean,  it  is  only  necessary  to  mention  Cunninghamia 
sinensis  as  a  typical  example  that  should  not  be  raised  by 
either  of  the  last-named  methods,  for  the  reason  that  the 
plants  generally  become  flat-headed,  whereas  seedlings  always 
possess  a  leader.  It  is,  however,  well-known  to  practical  men, 
but  not  to  the  ordinary  amateur,  that  the  leading  shoots  of 
some  plants,  particularly  those  raised  from  lateral  growths, 
must  be  cut  back  before  a  really  good  leader  can  be  secured. 
The  tops  are  sometimes  bent  over  and  tied  down  with  the 
same  object  in  view,  and  after  a  time  fresh  growth  will  appear 
at  the  desired  place.  When  the  original  leader  is  a  few  inches 


GOOD   TREES  AND   SHRUBS  209 

in  length,  it  should  be  removed  and  the  new  one  allowed  to 
take  its  place. 

With  seeds  of  certain  kinds  of  trees,  the  following  treat- 
ment, on  account  of  the  length  of  time  they  lie  dormant  in 
the  ground,  is  worthy  of  consideration.  Such  examples  as 
Thorns,  Hollies,  and  Mountain  Ash  are  included  in  this 
category.  By  the  method  described  below,  much  ground  is 
saved,  and  labour  which  would  be  required  to  keep  the  beds 
in  good  order  avoided.  When  the  seeds  are  gathered,  place 
them  in  heaps  and  mix  with  sand  of  about  their  own  bulk, 
each  kind  being  kept  separate,  and  turned  over  with  a  spade 
once  a  month,  or  at  least  once  in  every  six  weeks,  to  prevent 
excessive  evaporation.  When  the  proper  time  for  sowing 
has  arrived,  separate  the  sand  from  the  seeds  by  means  of  a 
sieve,  and  sow  in  the  usual  way.  Seeds  like  the  Glcditschia 
(Three-thorned  Acacia)  which  are  enclosed  in  very  hard 
shells,  should  be  soaked  in  water  for  a  day  or  so  before  sowing. 
Some  seeds  germinate  irregularly  of  a  period  of  twelve  or 
eighteen  months.  When  this  happens,  carefully  take  the  biggest 
seedlings  out  of  the  bed  with  a  small  three-pronged  hand-fork 
or  trowel  without  damage  to  the  remaining  plantlets.  Plant 
out  in  rows  10  inches  from  each  other,  and  4  inches  from 
plant  to  plant  in  the  rows. 

Cuttings. — The  raising  of  plantsfrom  cuttings  is  undoubtedly 
the  most  popular  of  artificial  methods  of  propagation.  There 
are  three  essentials  to  success,  viz.  heat,  light,  and  moisture. 
With  such  a  wide  range  of  subjects  as  we  are  now  dealing 
with  it  is  difficult  to  individualise,  and  we  must  rest  content 
with  general  remarks.  We  shall,  therefore,  consider  cuttings 
taken  at  two  seasons,  i.e.  first  in  early  summer,  when  the 
wood  is  young  and  half  ripe,  and  secondly  in  autumn,  when 
it  is  quite  mature.  The  first-named  period  is  the  best,  pro- 
vided circumstances  permit.  The  under-mentioned  list  will 
give  some  idea  of  the  class  of  subjects  falling  under  this  group  : 
Escallonias,  Spiraeas,  Itea  virginica,  Genistas,  Hypericums, 
Skimmias,  Cistus,  Veronicas,  Loniceras,  Deutzias,  Berberi- 
dopsis,  Philadelphus,  Cornus,  Forsythias,  Caryopteris,  Dier- 
villas,  Hydrangeas,  Vincas,  Helianthemums.  Broadly  speaking, 
the  best  time  to  take  cuttings  of  those  just  mentioned  and 
similar  ones  is  when  the  wood  is  getting  firm,  which  will,  in 
most  cases,  be  from  early  summer  to  midsummer.  Sturdy, 
sharp-jointed  pieces  should  be  selected,  ranging  in  length 
from  4  inches  to  6  inches,  and  if  they  can  be  procured  with 
a  heel  of  the  old  wood  attached  so  much  the  better,  as 
this  greatly  assists  root  formation ;  but  if  this  cannot  be 

O 


210  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

managed,  make  a  clean  cut  just  below  an  ordinary  joint.  It 
is  necessary  to  be  particular  in  every  case,  as  some  emit  roots 
more  readily  than  others,  but  it  is  as  well  to  take  proper 
care,  because  valuable  and  scarce  kinds  may  be  treated  in  a 
haphazard  way  and  many  failures  recorded.  When  the 
cuttings  are  severed  from  the  bushes  prepare  and  plant  them 
at  once.  If  they  are  exposed  to  sun  heat  or  allowed  to  get 
dry  flagging  will  result,  and  the  chances  of  success  greatly 
reduced.  It  may  be  noted  here  in  passing  that  plants  from 
which  cuttings  are  taken  should  be  healthy  and  vigorous. 

Whether  the  cuttings  are  dibbled  in  pans,  boxes,  or  pots 
makes  little  difference ;  but  whatever  receptacle  be  used  it 
should  be  clean,  dry,  and  well  drained.  Do  not  place  the 
cuttings  sufficiently  close  to  cause  damping,  or,  if  they  have 
to  remain  in  the  pots  long,  to  cause  the  young  shoots  to 
become  weak  through  overcrowding.  After  the  cuttings  have 
been  properly  inserted  in  the  soil,  and  the  pots  plunged  in  a 
warm  close  case  up  to  the  rim  in  cocoanut  fibre  or  similar 
heat-retaining  material,  they  should  be  watered  overhead  and 
shaded  from  the  sun  until  rooted.  When  the  roots  pierce 
the  soil  and  touch  the  sides  of  the  pots,  take  them  out  of  the 
case  and  place  upon  the  side  stages  of  the  house,  preparatory 
to  potting  off  and  transferring  to  a  cold  frame. 

Two  much  stress  can  hardly  be  laid  upon  the  value  of 
making  cuttings  quite  firm  at  the  base.  This  is  a  point  of 
greater  importance  than  is  generally  supposed,  and  with 
certain  sorts  of  trees  and  shrubs  success  or  failure  largely 
depends  upon  this  simple  fact. 

To  dry  up  superfluous  moisture  and  sweeten  the  air  of  the 
case  open  the  lights  for  half  an  hour  or  so  every  morning, 
and  at  the  same  time  remove  the  moisture  that  may  have  col- 
lected upon  the  glass  during  the  night  with  a  cloth,  sponge,  or 
wash-leather.  When  the  atmosphere  in  the  frame  is  kept  in  a 
high  state  of  saturation  there  is  danger  of  the  cuttings  damp- 
ing off.  Another  plan  is  to  allow  the  bottom  of  the  light  to 
rest  upon  a  small  piece  of  wood  an  inch  or  so  in  circum- 
ference for  ventilation  and  the  escape  of  excessive  moisture. 

Soil  for  Cuttings. — Cuttings,  like  growing  plants,  prefer 
certain  kinds  of  soil,  and,  broadly  speaking,  all  belonging  to 
Ericaceae  (Heaths)  and  Vacciniaceae  do  best  in  a  peaty  soil, 
and  it  is  well  to  remember  this  at  the  proper  time.  A 
compost  suitable  for  the  majority  of  tree  and  shrub  cuttings 
is  composed  of  light  soil  with  sufficient  sharp  silver  sand  to 
keep  it  porous. 

Those  who  do  not  possess  a  propagating  house  may  root 


GOOD  TREES  AND  SHRUBS  211 

their  cuttings  under  hand-lights  in  a  made-up  soil  on  a  shady 
border,  and  if  protection  from  the  sun  be  afforded  roots  will 
appear  in  a  few  weeks'  time.  Another  satisfactory  way  of 
dealing  with  cuttings  without  bottom  heat  is  to  make  up  a 
bed  of  light  soil  in  a  sheltered  part  of  the  garden  and  cover 
with  a  low  light  frame.  The  made-up  soil  should  be  about 
six  inches  deep,  moist,  and  sufficient  silver  sand  incorporated 
with  it  to  carry  off  superfluous  water.  The  bed  should  be 
made  quite  firm  and  level  and  surfaced  with  silver  sand. 
Dibble  the  cuttings  in  straight  rows  down  the  frame,  moisten 
lightly  overhead  about  every  second  or  third  day,  and  shield 
from  the  sun.  The  latter  arrangement  is  specially  recom- 
mended for  such  Conifers  as  Cupressus,  Thuyas,  Retinosporas, 
and  Biotas ;  but  these  should  not  be  put  in  until  about  the 
first  week  in  September,  as  the  wood  is  rather  too  soft  before 
that  time.  Under  such  treatment  the  writer  has  succeeded 
in  striking  about  95  per  cent,  of  cuttings  of  the  Conifers 
named  above  and  those  of  similar  character.  Whenever 
terminal  shoots  for  cuttings  can  be  procured  they  should  be 
used,  as  they  make  the  most  shapely  plants.  Such  trees  as 
Araucaria  imbricata  and  Cunninghamia  sinensis  are  not  satisfac- 
tory generally  unless  the  cuttings  are  taken  from  the  principal 
growths. 

Hollies,  Olearia  Haastii,  Veronicas,  and  Skimmias  root 
readily  in  cold  frames.  There  are,  however,  certain  sorts  of 
trees  and  shrubs  which  are  by  no  means  easy  to  increase  by 
cuttings  at  any  time,  and  it  may  perhaps  be  just  as  well  to 
mention  as  illustration  the  Chimonanthus  fragrans  (Winter 
Sweet).  Plants  of  the  Chimonanthus  have  been  raised  from 
cuttings,  and  the  writer  once  succeeded  in  raising  a  plant, 
but  although  it  threw  out  roots  it  made  very  little  growth, 
and  eventually  died.  It  was  treated  thus  :  a  small  twig  was 
taken  off  during  the  summer  with  a  bit  of  the  old  wood 
adhering  to  it,  inserted  in  a  small  pot  in  moist  soil,  plunged 
in  a  close  (not  hot)  case,  and  sprinkled  overhead  occasion- 
ally with  lukewarm  water. 

Dibbles. — Box  and  Yew  make  admirable  dibbles  for  in- 
serting the  cuttings  in  the  soil,  as  the  wood  is  very  durable 
and  does  not  require  constant  paring  like  that  of  a  softer 
nature.  The  knife  used  for  cutting  should  always  be  sharp, 
as  cuttings  made  with  a  knife  having  a  good  edge  throw  out 
roots  more  freely,  and  in  less  time  than  those  made  with  a 
blunt  one. 

Rooting  Cuttings  in  the  Open  Border. — This  is  a  form  of 
propagation  adopted  in  autumn  with  certain  sorts  of  vigorous 


212 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


growing  shrubs  and  trees,  of  which  the  following  serve  as 
examples  :  Laurels,  Roses,  Willows,  Tamarisk,  Privet,  Phila- 
delphuses,  Flowering  Currants,  and  Cornus.  The  cuttings  may 
vary  in  length  from  10  inches  to  18  inches  according  to  the 
vigour  of  individual  kinds.  They  should  be  planted  in  rows 
a  foot  or  so  apart,  allowing  two  or  more  inches  between  each 
cutting  in  the  rows.  The  bed  or  border  should  be  carefully 
prepared,  the  cuttings  planted  in  a  perpendicular  (not  slanting) 
fashion  and  trodden  quite  firmly  at  the  bottom.  During  dry 
weather  occasional  waterings  will  assist  new  growth.  Keep 
the  beds  free  from  weeds  and  the  surface  soil  loose. 

Budding  and  Grafting  are  subjects  that  hardly  come  within 
the  scope  of  a  beginner's  book,  and  many  flowering  trees  and 


FIG.  17.— How  to  layer  a  Tree  or  Shrub.     Dotted  lines  =  Soil. 

shrubs  are  propagated  in  this  way  when  there  is  no  occasion 
to  do  so.  Whenever  possible  trees  and  shrubs  should  be  in- 
creased by  seeds,  cuttings,  or  layers,  a  very  good  method, 
performed  in  a  similar  way  to  layering,  advised  for  the 
Carnation  and  explained  by  the  accompanying  diagram. 


SELECTION   AND   DESCRIPTION   OF   THE   BEST 
TREES   AND   SHRUBS 

Abelias, — There  are  really  only  two  Abelias  sufficiently  hardy  for 
the  London  district;  in  fact,\k.  chinensis,  better  known  perhaps  as  A. 
rupestris,  is  the  only  one,  because  A.  floribunda  suffers  unless  some  pro- 


GOOD   TREES   AND   SHRUBS  213 

tection  is  afforded  during  severe  winters.  The  Himalayan  A.  triftora 
may  be  grown  against  a  warm  wall.  A.  chinensis  (A.  rupestris)  deserves 
careful  consideration,  for  in  the  months  of  August  and  September,  when 
it  is  laden  with  its  small  delicate  pink,  delightfully  fragrant  flowers  which 
hang  from  the  tips  of  the  current  season's  growth,  it  is  remarkably  pretty. 
The  flowers  are  serviceable,  too,  for  placing  in  vases  for  table  decoration, 
as  they  may  be  cut  with  their  own  foliage,  which  is  small,  glossy  green, 
and  forms  an  admirable  setting  for  the  flower  colouring.  Look  over  the 
plants  yearly,  and  remove  worn-out  growths,  and  thus  make  room  for 
young  wood  which  should  always  be  encouraged.  The  soil  Abelias  de- 
light in  is  one  composed  of  peat  and  loam,  with  the  addition  of  a  good 
quantity  of  sweet  leaf-mould.  Good  drainage  is  essential.  No  matter 
how  rich  the  soil  may  be  at  planting  time,  the  plants  are  never  happy 
unless  ample  drainage  is  provided  to  carry  off  superfluous  water.  If  the 
ground  is  not  naturally  drained,  take  out  soil  at  planting  time  to  a  suffi- 
cient depth,  and  throw  in  a  few  broken  bricks,  crocks,  &c.,  at  the  bottom, 
covering  these  with  rough  turfy  loam,  over  which  put  the  made-up  soil. 
Give  water  to  settle  the  soil  about  the  roots. 

Acers  (Maples). — These  form  an  important  group  of  hardy  trees 
and  shrubs.  They  come  from  North  America,  Japan,  and  Northern 
Asia  principally,  and  vary  considerably  in  size  from  trees  twelve  feet  in 
height  to  those  one  hundred  feet  or  more.  The  Maples  vary  considerably 
in  leaf  formation,  and  in  the  manner  of  growth,  some  being  bushy,  round- 
headed  trees,  and  others  erect,  spreading,  and  even  weeping.  The  follow- 
ing is  a  selection  of  the  finest  for  small  and  medium  sized  gardens.  No 
more  delightful  group  of  hardy  foliage  shrubs  exists  than  the  varieties 
of  Acer  palmatum,  popularly  called  Japanese  Maples,  and  it  is  strange 
that  they  have  not  been  used  more  freely  in  gardens  and  parks.  They 
are  regarded  by  some  as  short-lived  and  tender,  but  this  is  quite  a  mistake. 
With  a  judicious  selection  of  varieties,  and  care  in  placing  them,  little  fear 
of  death  from  cold  need  be  entertained.  They  should  never  be  planted 
in  water-logged  soil,  or  where  they  are  likely  to  feel  the  effects  of  east 
winds,  both  of  which  are  injurious.  Neither  should  they  be  planted 
anyhow  in  the  ordinary  shrubbery  border,  where  more  vigorous  things 
would  grow  over  them.  Light  and  air  are  necessary  to  develop  the  true 
leaf-colour.  Glorious  effects  can  be  obtained  by  planting  on  mounds 
sloping  to  the  south  or  west,  and  although  the  Japanese  Maples  give 
the  best  results  when  planted  in  rich  soil,  that  of  poorer  quality  will 
suffice,  provided  the  points  referred  to  above  have  not  been  overlooked. 
As  single  specimens  on  the  fringe  of  the  lawn,  and  for  growing  in  pots  or 
tubs  for  indoor  decoration,  their  value  cannot  be  overestimated.  The 
great  variety  in  form,  size,  and  leaf-colour  is  almost  bewildering,  and  the 
following  list  represents  only  the  cream  of  the  family.  A.  palmatum 
aureum  is  a  sturdy  grower,  with  large  yellowish  leaves  which  in  autumn 
change  to  shades  of  orange,  scarlet,  and  gold.  A.  p.  sanguineum  creates 
a  brilliant  picture  in  the  setting  sun.  In  growth  it  is  bushy  and  free,  and 
its  leaves  are  deep  crimson.  The  soft  green  deeply-cut  leaves  of  A.  p. 
linearilobum  are  very  pretty,  and  those  of  A.  p.  roseo-marginatum  are 


2i4  GARDENING  FOR   BEGINNERS 

bright  green,  irregularly  margined  with  rich  rose  and  pink.  It  is  a  dainty 
variety  of  slender  growth.  A.  p.  septemlobum  is  a  beautiful  Maple  with 
cut  leaves,  and  A.  p.  s.  elegans  is  another  handsome  form.  In  spring 
its  leaves  are  delicate  green,  gradually  passing  through  shades  of  pink  and 
rose  to  crimson.  A.  p.  s.  atropurpureum,  with  its  crimson-purple  leaves, 
is  highly  ornamental,  while  those  of  the  variety  named  laciniata  are  deep 
green,  flushed  with  rose  and  pink.  A.  p.  s.  marmoratum  and  A.  p.  s. 
tricolor  are  also  good.  The  dissectum  group  possesses  fern-like  leaves,  the 
colours  of  which  are  exceedingly  rich  and  enduring.  Those  of  the  type 
are  bright  green,  ornatum  bronze-purple,  and  roseo-marginatum  purple- 
bronze,  stained  with  rose  and  white. 

The  Silver  Maple  (A.dasycarpwri)  from  North  America  makes  a  beauti- 
ful avenue  tree,  as  it  is  of  good  growth,  the  leaves  large,  palmate,  silvery 
white  on  the  under  sides,  and  set  on  long  footstalks.  When  disturbed 
by  the  breeze  they  seem  silvered  all  over.  A,  grandidendatum  is  useful 
for  its  effectiveness ;  it  is  of  free  growth.  A.  macrophyllum,  also  from 
North  America,  is  one  of  the  best  Maples  for  planting  on  gravelly  soils, 
as  it  makes  excellent  growth.  Its  bold  leaves  are  bright  green,  and  the 
flowers  and  showy  fruit  are  produced  abundantly.  A.  circinatum  is 
another  dry  soil  loving  species.  It  is  neat  in  habit,  and  forms  a  medium- 
sized  round-headed  tree,  and  in  autumn  its  bright  scarlet  leaves  are 
remarkably  handsome.  For  this  reason  alone  it  deserves  consideration. 
The  Sugar  Maple  (A.  saccharinum)  is  of  upright  growth,  vigorous  and 
handsome.  Its  leaves  are  large,  bright  green,  and  covered  with  a  thick 
glaucous  hue  on  the  under  sides.  The  autumn  tints  are  very  fine.  A. 
rubrum  is  a  well-known  showy-leaved  Acer,  particularly  in  autumn,  when 
its  foliage  is  heavily  shaded  with  orange  and  scarlet.  It  is  of  elegant 
habit,  and  often  reaches  a  height  of  twenty-five  feet  or  more  when 
planted  in  a  position  favourable  to  good  growth.  It  makes  considerable 
headway  in  dry,  hungry  soil,  and  in  spring,  when  displaying  its  clusters 
of  deep  red  flowers,  it  is  one  of  the  most  striking  of  American  Maples. 
A.  pennsylvanicum  (the  Snake-barked  Maple),  also  known  in  gardens  as 
A.  striatum,  flourishes  in  dry  soil  and  is  quite  distinct,  as  its  bark  is 
freely  striped  with  white.  It  is  not  often  more  than  twenty-feet  in 
height,  and  its  heart-shaped  leaves  are  very  beautiful.  For  general 
effect  A.  pidum  rubrum ,  sometimes  labelled  A.  calchicum  rubrum ,  should 
be  remembered.  It  is  of  free  growth,  and  its  bright  green  leaves  change 
to  shades  of  purple  and  crimson  in  autumn — a  tree  to  plant  for  its  autumn 
colouring. 

All  the  varieties  of  A.  Pseudo-platanus  (Common  Sycamore)  are  worthy 
of  mention,  but  only  a  few  can  be  mentioned.  The  variety  named 
Leopoldi  is  fairly  well  known,  and  its  silver  variegated  leaves  and  red 
petioles  are  showy.  Although  of  vigorous  growth  it  can  be  kept  within 
bounds  by  a  free  use  of  the  knife,  the  growth  resulting  from  such  treatment 
being  strong  and  the  leaves  highly  coloured.  Another  variety  (atropur- 
pureum) is  suitable  for  pleasure  grounds.  Its  branches  are  stout,  and  the 
leaves  dark  purple.  The  variety  named  elegantissimum  variegatum  is  a 
choice  tree  of  vigorous  growth.  The  large  cream-coloured  leaves  are 


GOOD  TREES  AND  SHRUBS  21$ 

suffused  with  delicate  pink  and  rose.  A.  P.  flavo-marginatum  (Corstor- 
phine  Plane)  has  golden  variegated  leaves,  and  is  worth  growing.  A. 
Negundo  is  a  first-rate  tree,  but  its  silver-leaved  form  is  showier  and  quite 
as  hardy  and  free  in  growth.  It  is  an  excellent  tree  for  small  gardens, 
and  unlike  many  variegated  trees  does  not  burn  in  hot  suns,  and  succeeds 
famously  in  dry  soil,  but  it  must  not  be  used  recklessly.  Its  colouring 
is  very  decided,  and  when  the  tree  is  planted  very  freely  the  effect  is 
"  spotty."  A.  N .  californium  aureum  makes  an  excellent  companion  to 
it,  being  perfectly  hardy,  vigorous,  and  the  bright  golden  leaves  remain 
true  to  colour  throughout  the  summer.  A.  N.  elegans  is  another  showy 
variety,  but  unfortunately  planted  sparingly.  It  is  perhaps  of  rather  freer 
growth  than  the  one  just  referred  to.  The  strong  growths  are  of  a  con- 
spicuous glaucous  hue,  and  the  leaves  tender  green,  margined  and  striped 
with  yellow  and  cream  white.  A.  platanoides  Schwedleri  is  a  splendid 
tree,  and  perhaps  the  most  beautiful  of  Norway  Maples.  It  is  tall,  vigorous, 
free  in  growth,  and  has  delightful  foliage,  its  bronzy-red  deepening  with 
age.  A.  p.  rubrum  is  of  much  merit  with  reddish  tinted  leaves.  It  is  of 
excellent  growth,  and,  like  the  last  named,  very  beautiful  in  autumn. 
A.  argutum,  from  Japan,  forms  a  neat  specimen,  and  is  suitable  for  the 
outskirts  of  the  lawn.  It  is  rather  slow  in  growth,  and  has  tinted,  deeply- 
lobed  leaves,  which  change  to  bright  colouring  in  autumn.  A.  japonicum 
is  a  much  branched  tree  of  small  stature,  and  well  adapted  for  small 
gardens.  Its  colours  in  autumn  are  remarkably  brilliant,  and  as  the 
leaves  hang  upon  the  trees  long  after  those  of  many  species  have  fallen,  its 
value  for  effect  is  increased.  Within  the  last  twelve  years  several  new 
species  have  been  introduced  from  China;  distinct  ones  are  A.  Davidii, 
A.  Henryi,  A.  Olingianum}  and  A.  longipes.  All  promise  to  be  of  value 
for  the  garden. 

The  Actinidias  are  hardy  climbers,  well  suited  for  training  over 
arbours,  bridges,  pergolas,  and  similar  structures.  A.  Kolomikta,  from 
Eastern  Asia,  is  perhaps  the  most  familiar  kind.  It  is  vigorous  in  growth, 
and  soon  covers  a  large  space.  Although  its  white  flowers  are  not  showy 
they  are  produced  freely,  and  the  young  leaves  are  of  a  pleasing  shade 
of  green,  eventually  changing  to  rich  orange  and  yellow.  A.  polygama 
is  also  a  strong  grower  with  white  flowers,  but  the  most  ornamental 
species  is  A.  chinensis,  a  strong-growing  Chinese  plant  of  recent  intro- 
duction. It  bears  yellow  flowers,  and  large  leaves,  which  when  young 
are  covered,  together  with  the  young  shoots,  with  conspicuous,  reddish 
hairs.  Ordinary  soil  suits  these  rampant  climbers. 

Mg\Q  Sepiaria,  introduced  from  Japan  about  1870,  deserves  mention 
not  only  for  its  quaint  growth,  but  also  for  its  small,  sweet-scented, 
white,  orange-like  blossoms,  which  are  borne  along  the  spiny  branches. 
It  is  slow  in  growth,  and  should,  if  possible,  be  planted  in  small  groups  on 
the  turf,  selecting  of  course  a  sunny  position  so  as  to  ensure  thorough 
ripening  of  the  wood.  It  succeeds  best  in  turfy  loam,  with  which  has  been 
incorporated  a  quantity  of  leaf-mould.  Good  drainage  is  of  much  im- 
portance, because  it  fails  when  the  roots  travel  into  sour  soil. 

•ffisculus  Hippocastanum  (Horse  Chestnut}  is  the  noblest  of  all 


216  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

hardy-flowering,  vigorous  trees  for  the  pleasure-ground.  Its  beauty 
at  flowering  time  is  proverbial.  It  has  been  planted  extensively  in 
some  parts  of  the  country,  and  is  an  excellent  avenue  tree.  Its  native 
country  is  supposed  to  be  Greece,  whence  it  was  brought  to  this 
country  so  long  ago  as  1629.  Although  it  succeeds  in  most  soils,  it 
seems  to  delight  in  a  rich,  light  loam.  There  are  varieties  with  double 
flowers,  others  with  beautifully  cut  leaves,  and  some  have  golden 
variegated  foliage,  all  of  which  are  ornamental.  M.  indica,  well  known 
as  the  Indian  Horse  Chestnut,  is  a  free-growing  tree,  with  numerous 
branches  and  great  quantities  of  white  flowers  marked  with  red  and 
yellow.  It  blossoms  in  July.  The  one  named  rubicunda  or  carnea, 
as  it  is  now  recognised,  deserves  greater  popularity.  It  grows  upwards 
of  twenty  feet  in  height,  and  comes  from  North  America.  Its  showy 
scarlet  flowers,  borne  on  substantial  spikes,  remain  in  beauty  for  several 
weeks.  Brioti  is  a  variety  of  the  last  named,  and  certainly  quite  as  free 
in  blossom  ;  the  large  rose-coloured  flowers  carried  on  long  erect  spikes 
are  quite  distinct  and  lasting.  It  is  a  grand  tree.  M.  californica  (Pavia 
calif ornica)  is  a  spreading  tree  a  dozen  feet  or  so  in  height,  and  in  July 
white,  flushed  pink  flowers  appear  in  profusion.  It  is  very  uncommon, 
perfectly  hardy,  attractive,  and  valuable  for  its  lateness.  J£.  parviflora 
(Pavia  macrostachya),  indigenous  to  North  America,  is  a  superb  kind, 
and  exceptionally  free-flowering.  Its  sweet-scented  white  flowers  appear 
about  the  end  of  July  and  early  part  of  August,  and  are  borne  on  long 
racemes  with  conspicuous  stamens  and  red-tipped  anthers,  give  addi- 
tional beauty  to  the  bush.  It  does  not  grow  to  tree  form  like  most 
other  kinds.  M.  flava  (Sweet  Buckeye),  also  known  under  the  names 
of  Pavia  bicolor  and  P.  ftava,  bears  pale  yellow  flowers.  It  grows  up- 
wards of  twenty  feet  in  height. 

Ailanthus  glandules  a  (Tree  of  Heaven)  is  one  of  the  most  desirable 
of  vigorous  trees,  but  requires  plenty  of  light,  space,  and  air  to  bring 
out  its  real  value.  It  produces  a  straight  trunk,  from  which  are  given 
off  numerous  long  branches  clothed  with  much  divided  leaves,  four  and 
sometimes  five  feet  long.  By  no  means  particular  as  to  soil,  it  makes 
the  best  growth  in  deep,  well-drained  loam,  and  in  autumn,  when  bear- 
ing its  great  clusters  of  brown-winged  fruits,  it  is  one  of  the  most  conspic- 
uous of  trees.  It  is  valuable,  too,  for  the  sub-tropical  garden  under 
certain  treatment,  and  for  this  purpose  it  should  be  grown  on  the  single- 
stem  system  and  cut  hard  back  every  year.  The  growths  that  follow  this 
treatment  are  vigorous,  and  the  leaves  larger  than  those  of  uncut  trees. 

Akebia  quinata  is  an  uncommon  Chinese  evergreen  climber  of 
free  growth,  with  glossy  green  leaves  divided  into  several  leaflets.  In 
April  and  May  it  produces  small,  dull  purple  flowers  in  short  axillary 
racemes,  and  although  not  individually  conspicuous  they  are  very 
fragrant,  especially  at  night.  A  deep,  moist,  well-drained  soil  is 
necessary,  and  a  position  where  it  is  not  exposed  to  biting  winds,  as 
these  check  young  shoots,  and  sometimes,  especially  when  accompanied 
by  late  spring  frosts,  kill  the  tender  growths  outright.  It  is  a  beautiful 
plant  for  clambering  amongst  the  branches  of  old  trees  and  hiding 


I 


GOOD   TREES  AND  SHRUBS  217 

trellis  work.  Where  the  climate  is  cold  grow  the  Akebia  in  a  cold- 
house,  as  it  is  well  adapted  for  clothing  pillars,  rafters,  &c.,  and  its 
purple,  fragrant  flowers,  borne  in  drooping  spikes,  remain  long  in  beauty. 
A.  lobata  is  another  useful  strong-growing  climber.  It  may  be  distin- 
guished from  the  other  species  by  its  three-lobed  leaves. 

Amelanchiers  (Mespilus).— This  a  small  group  of  hardy  shrubs 
and  trees  of  small  stature.  No  garden  of  any  pretentions  can  be  con- 
sidered complete  without  one  or  more  trees  of  the  Snowy  Mespilus. 
It  is  very  beautiful  in  spring  when  thousands  of  small  white  flowers 
open  to  the  sunshine.  A  healthy  tree  in  April  and  May  is  a  cloud  of 
wavy  white  petals.  The  value  of  Amelanchiers  in  the  landscape  is 
not  confined  to  spring  alone,  because  the  gorgeous  colouring  of  the 
decaying  leaves  in  autumn  is  quite  as  welcome  as  the  flower  cloud  of 
the  early  year.  Amelanchiers  are  not  fastidious.  There  is  hardly  a 
soil  in  which  they  refuse  to  grow,  but  a  deep,  rich,  moist  loam  seems 
to  answer  best,  and  if  shelter  from  cold  winds  can  be  given  so  much 
the  better,  because  the  flowers  sometimes  suffer  in  rough  weather.  A. 
vulgaris  (Common  Amelanchier),  indigenous  to  Southern  Europe,  is 
one  of  the  brightest  of  early  spring-flowering  trees.  It  is  free  in  all 
ways.  A.  canadensis  (Snowy  Mespilus),  also  known  as  A.  botryapium, 
is  an  old  favourite,  having  been  introduced  from  Canada  upwards  of 
150  years  ago.  It  is  rather  slow  in  growth,  but  reaches  in  the  course  of 
years  a  height  of  between  thirty  feet  and  forty  feet.  It  forms  a  round- 
headed  tree  with  long  and  somewhat  pendulous  branches,  and  when 
young  its  smooth  leaves  are  tender  green,  changing  to  a  deeper  shade, 
and  in  autumn  assume  exquisite  shades  of  yellow  and  orange.  The 
snow-white  flowers  are  in  graceful  racemes  and  succeeded  by  crimson 
fruit,  from  which  plants  can  be  readily  raised,  but  when  layered  the 
trees  flower  a  season  or  so  before  those  raised  from  seed,  indeed  before 
they  are  two  feet  high.  Little  trees  of  this  kind  are  welcome  in  the 
conservatory  as  well  as  for  massing  on  the  grass.  The  variety  oblongi- 
folia  is  a  gem  and  late  flowering.  It  is  much  dwarfer  in  habit  and  gener- 
ally ten  days  or  a  fortnight  after  the  type  in  coming  into  bloom.  The 
flowers  appear  in  short  racemes.  A.  oligocarpa  is  a  dwarf -growing  shrub 
of  considerable  beauty,  but  unfortunately  very  uncommon.  It  grows 
about  four  feet  high  and  bears  large,  pure  white  flowers  generally  in 
pairs  on  well-matured  wood.  For  small  gardens  the  dwarf  June  Berry 
(A.  alnifolia)  is  worth  remembering,  as  it  rarely  exceeds  eight  feet  high 
and  flowers  rather  late  in  the  season.  Its  flowers,  like  those  of  A. 
canadensis,  are  produced  lavishly,  and  the  autumn-tinted  foliage  is  strik- 
ingly beautiful. 

Amorphas. — These  are  in  their  way  useful  shrubs,  the  best  of  which 
is  A.  camscens  (Lead  Plant),  introduced  from  Missouri  in  the  early  part 
of  the  present  century.  It  grows  about  three  feet  high,  flowers  in 
autumn,  is  quite  hardy,  and  free  both  in  growth  and  bloom.  Its  deep 
blue  flowers  are  borne  in  panicles  and  last  a  long  time  in  fresh  condi- 
tion, and  its  silky  white  pinnate  leaves  are  very  attractive.  A  sandy 
soil  with  an  open  sunny  aspect  suits  it  admirably,  and  considering  the 


2i 8  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

great  time  the  Lead  Plant  has  been  in  cultivation  it  is  far  from  common 
in  gardens.  A.  fruticosa  (False  Indigo),  a  well-known  deciduous  shrub, 
is  more  common  than  the  last-named  species.  It  is  vigorous  and  grows 
half  a  dozen  feet  high  when  planted  in  sandy  soil,  and  produces  purplish- 
blue  flowers  in  rather  short  spikes  during  summer.  This  shrub  flowers 
more  freely  when  cut  back  every  year,  as  the  blossom  produced  on  young 
growths  is  much  finer  than  that  on  neglected  bushes. 

Andromeda  polifolia  (The  Marsh  Rosemary)  is  a  pretty  shrub  when 
seen  at  its  best,  but  it  is  not  suitable  for  every  garden.  There  is  an 
idea  that  this  low-growing  evergreen  shrub  seldom  develops  more  than 
fifteen  inches,  succeeeding  only  in  peaty  soil.  This  is  a  mistake,  because 
it  flourishes  and  flowers  profusely  in  loamy  soil  provided  lime  is  absent 
and  the  soil  moist.  Its  wiry  shoots,  bright  green  leaves,  and  its  pale 
pink  flowers  borne  in  racemes  are  distinct,  enduring,  and  very  beautiful. 
The  varieties,  major  and  angustifolia,  are  practically  described  by  their 
varietal  names. 

Aralia  chinenis  (syn.  Dimorphanthus  mandschuricus)  is  a  Chinese 
tree  introduced  to  this  country  upwards  of  sixty  years  ago.  In  a  deci- 
duous state  its  long,  spiny,  branchless  stems  are  by  no  means  attractive  ; 
but  during  the  growing  season,  and  in  autumn  when  bearing  its  huge 
terminal  panicles  of  small  cream- white  flowers,  it  is  very  effective,  and 
has  quite  a  tropical  look.  It  is  quite  hardy  and  flourishes  in  poor  soils. 
The  varieties  albo-marginata  and  aureo-marginata  have  silver  and  golden 
variegated  leaves  respectively.  Both  form  handsome  plants.  The 
Angelica  tree  (A.  spinosa)  was  introduced  from  Virginia  more  than 
two  hundred  years  ago,  and  like  the  last-named  it  blooms  in  autumn, 
in  fact  its  cream-coloured  flowers  may  be  frequently  seen  as  late  as  the 
middle  of  October,  and  even  after  that  time.  To  see  the  full  beauty  of 
this  plant  it  should  be  allowed  plenty  of  room  and  generous  treatment. 

The  Arbutuses  (Strawberry  Trees)  are  delightful  subjects  for  the 
garden,  especially  if  the  soil  is  peaty,  moist,  well-drained,  and  the  posi- 
tion screened  from  the  north  and  east.  Not  only  are  they  valued  for 
their  flowers,  but  also  for  their  berries.  The  strawberry-like  fruit  of  A. 
Unedo  is  very  showy,  and  as  the  white  bell-shaped  flowers  are  borne  at 
the  same  time  the  effect  of  a  good-sized  tree  is  very  telling  when  suit- 
ably placed.  A.  Unedo,  the  most  frequently  planted  kind,  is  of  moderate 
growth,  rarely  developing  more  than  twenty  feet  in  height,  with  bright 
green  leaves,  forming  a  round-headed,  well-balanced  tree.  It  can  be 
well  recommended  for  planting  on  the  outskirts  of  the  lawn  and  near 
the  sea-coast.  It  flowers  in  autumn.  Several  varieties  differing  from 
the  type  have  been  raised,  and  are  now  in  gardens.  They  differ  either 
in  habit  of  growth,  size,  or  colour  of  flowers,  and  are  fairly  described 
by  their  varietal  names.  For  instance,  A.  U.  querdfolia  has  leaves 
not  unlike  those  of  some  oaks.  The  variety  microphylla  is  not  only  small 
in  growth,  but  its  deep  green  leaves  are  the  smallest  of  all  the  Arbutuses. 
It  is  of  slow  growth  and  a  serviceable  evergreen  shrub  for  small  gardens. 
The  variety  rubra,  also  known  as  A.  Croomii,  is  of  more  than  ordinary 
merit.  It  grows  freely  and  has  large  handsome  leaves,  while  the  young 


GOOD   TREES   AND   SHRUBS  219 

bark  is  of  a  pleasing  shade  of  reddish  brown,  and  quite  distinct  from  that 
of  any  other  member  of  the  family.  The  flowers  are  much  larger  than 
those  of  A.  Unedo,  and  in  colour  almost  red.  A.  Menziesii  (syn.  A. 
procera)  is  a  free-growing  tree,  with  beautiful  rich  green  leaves  coloured 
with  a  glaucous  hue  on  the  obverse  sides,  and  the  white  fragrant  flowers 
are  carried  in  panicles.  The  orange-red  fruit  is  not  so  large  as  that  of  the 
common  Strawberry  tree,  but  it  is  attractive  all  the  same.  A.  And- 
rachne,  occasionally  met  with  under  the  name  of  integrifolia,  is  quite  as 
hardy  as  the  type  and  certainly  very  ornamental.  It  was  introduced 
from  the  Levant  in  1874,  is  vigorous,  with  large  leaves,  and  bears  dull 
white  flowers  abundantly  in  May  and  June.  The  bark  of  the  young 
shoots  is  tinged  with  red.  A.  hybrida  (A.  photiniafolia),  supposed  to 
be  a  cross  between  the  last-named  and  the  type,  is  very  handsome  and 
bears  some  resemblance  to  both  parents.  Its  leaves  are  very  leathery 
and  rich  green,  and  the  greenish-yellow  flowers  are  produced  profusely. 
Its  crimson-stained  fruit  is  conspicuous  in  spring. 

Arundinaria.    See  Bambusa. 

The  growth  of  Ornamental  Grasses  should  be  encouraged,  as  they 
are  graceful  and  beautiful,  and  although  the 

Arundos  are  not  the  most  elegant,  they  possess  a  distinct  charm 
which  appeals  to  the  planter.  The  type  A.  Donax  (Great  Reed)  grows 
about  a  dozen  feet  in  height,  with  stout,  almost  erect  stems  and  long, 
narrow,  glaucous  leaves.  It  delights  in  a  moist  soil,  such  as  one  finds 
near  the  edges  of  water,  a  sunny  position  in  preference  to  a  shady 
one,  as  the  growth  is  always  better  for  being  exposed  to  the  sun,  especi- 
ally if  delugings  of  water  can  be  given  during  summer.  The  silver 
variegated  form  (A.  D.  variegata)  is  less  vigorous  than  the  type,  but 
very  beautiful.  Its  leaves  are  short,  tender,  green,  and  streaked  with 
cream  white.  This  kind  should  never  be  planted  in  cold  soil  and  bleak 
situations,  as  it  is  apt  to  lose  colour  and  become  disfigured  by  cold  winds. 
It  succeeds  well  as  a  pot  plant  for  indoor  decoration,  but  when  root 
room  is  restricted,  it  should  never  be  allowed  to  want  for  water.  The 
variety  macrophylla  is  vigorous,  hardy,  and  elegant,  and  a  grand  plant 
for  the  sub-tropical  garden.  Its  strong  stems  are  clothed  with  glaucous 
leaves.  The  New  Zealand  Reed  (A.  conspicua)  is  a  fine  species,  and 
when  bearing  its  graceful,  feathery  plumes  during  summer  and  autumn, 
is  remarkably  pretty.  Its  arching  leaves  are  long  and  narrow. 

Aucuba  japonica  and  its  varieties  are  familiar  garden  shrubs, 
very  useful  and  ornamental  both  in  foliage  and  in  fruit.  Be  careful  to 
get  plants  of  both  male  and  female  kinds,  so  that  the  flowers  of  the 
latter  may  become  fertilised,  because  if  berries  are  desired,  both  sexes 
must  be  in  association.  They  are  excellent  shrubs  for  town  gardens,  as 
they  endure  fog  and  smoke  better  than  the  majority  of  evergreens. 
The^  are  also  serviceable  for  placing  upon  balconies,  for  winter  bedding, 
and  can  also  be  recommended  for  planting  in  the  shade  of  trees.  They 
thrive  in  any  well-drained  soil. 

Azaleas.    See  Rhododendrons. 

Azaras  come  from   Chili,  and,  north   of    London,  require    pro- 


220  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

tection  during  severe  winters — usually  that  afforded  by  a  wall  being 
sufficient.  They  succeed  in  ordinary  soil,  provided  it  is  well  drained. 
A.  microphylla,  introduced  nearly  thirty  years  ago,  is  the  most  graceful 
member  of  the  group,  and  grows  freely  in  most  situations,  provided  it 
can  be  screened  from  east  winds.  It  forms  a  dense  shrub,  with  long 
branches  of  graceful  outline,  and  numerous  small,  dark  green  leaves. 
In  favourable  seasons  thoroughly  established  plants  produce  small,  in- 
attractive,  but  very  sweet-scented  flowers.  A.  Gilliesii  is  vigorous,  but, 
unfortunately,  rather  more  tender.  It  should  be  represented  in  the 
wall  garden.  Its  holly-like  leaves  are  very  handsome,  toothed,  glossy 
green,  and  its  rich  yellow  flowers  are  borne  in  axillary  panicles. 

Bamboos. — To  facilitate  reference,  Bambusa,  Arundinaria,  and 
Phyllostachys  are  here  brought  under  the  general  heading  of  Bamboos, 
as  they  are  closely  allied  to  each  other.  No  plants  give  a  more  tropical 
appearance  to  the  landscape  than  suitably  placed,  healthy  Bamboos. 

During  the  past  few  years  considerable  interest  has  been  aroused 
in  this  family,  the  effect  of  plants  in  certain  positions,  hardiness,  and 
general  ornamental  qualities  being  referred  to  in  the  horticultural  press. 
To  prevent  disappointment,  a  few  preliminary  remarks  respecting  culture 
and  aspect  may  not  be  without  value.  In  the  first  place,  a  position 
screened  from  the  east  and  north  is  essential,  also  a  deep,  rich,  moist  soil 
in  which  leaf-mould  forms  a  large  part.  A  yearly  top-dressing  of  manure 
or  leaf-mould  greatly  benefits  them,  and  while  growth  is  in  progress 
frequent  soakings  of  water  will  be  of  immense  value.  A  mistake,  un- 
fortunately too  often  made  in  the  culture  of  these  graceful  plants,  is,  that 
they  are  disturbed  at  the  root  at  the  wrong  time  of  the  year.  Never 
move  them  in  winter,  but  wait  until  the  end  of  May  or  even  the  month 
of  June  before  dividing  them,  because  at  that  time  fresh  growth  is  being 
formed,  and  they  then  move  with  ease  and  certainty,  the  roots  are 
quickly  re-established,  and  the  plants  grow  away  as  though  they  had  not 
been  interfered  with.  They  are  very  graceful  by  the  water  margin, 
as  well  as  single  specimens  on  the  lawn,  and  also  for  sub-tropical  garden- 
ing. Bambusa  tessellata,  also  known  under  the  name  of  Ragamowski, 
a  fairly  well-known  kind,  is  of  close,  compact,  dwarf  habit,  and  very 
distinct.  Its  broad,  rich  green  leaves  are  quite  fifteen  inches  long.  B. 
marmorata  also  belongs  to  the  dwarf  section,  and  requires  a  warm  spot 
to  bring  out  its  true  beauty,  a  cold,  bleak  situation  being  most  unsuit- 
able for  this  dainty  little  Bamboo,  with  its  slim  dark  stems  and  short, 
rich  green  leaves.  B.  palmata  spreads  rapidly,  and  delights  in  partial 
shade.  Its  broad,  bright  green  leaves  are  large  and  handsome.  The 
smallest  of  all  Bamboos  is  B.  pygmeza,  well  adapted  for  the  wild  garden, 
and  is  also  serviceable  for  permanent  edgings.  It  spreads  with  excep- 
tional freedom,  and  soon  forms  a  dense  carpet  of  greenery. 

Arundinaria  FalGOneri,  with  its  slender  stems  eighteen  feet  or  more 
long,  supplied  with  rich  green  leaves,  is  pretty  if  planted  in  a  sheltered 
ravine,  but  it  is  only  suitable  for  the  milder  parts  of  the  country.  A. 
Hindsii  is  also  conspicuous  for  its  erect  stems  and  dark  green  foliage, 
but  it  is  surpassed  in  beauty  by  its  variety  graminea.  A.  Fortunei 


GOOD   TREES   AND   SHRUBS  221 

(Bambusa  Fortunei  variegata)  is  a  neat  and  ornamental  grass,  a  foot  or  so 
high,  suitable  for  adorning  the  front  of  the  shrubbery,  or  for  growing 
in  pots  for  placing  in  cool  greenhouses.  It  is  quite  hardy,  and  its  narrow, 
pale  green  leaves,  striped  with  white,  are  very  effective.  A.  auricoma, 
better  known  as  the  golden  form  of  Bambusa  Fortunei,  is  indigenous  to 
Japan,  and  grows  about  three  feet  high.  It  spreads  rapidly,  and  its 
yellowish-green  leaves  are  regularly  striped  with  green.  A.  japonica, 
well  known  as  Bambusa  Metake,  is  the  most  frequently  planted  kind, 
and  certainly  the  least  exacting  of  the  vigorous  Bamboos,  because  it  not 
only  grows  luxuriantly  in  damp  soils,  but  is  quite  a  success  in  dry  situa- 
tions. Its  long  growths,  and  broad,  deep  green  leaves  are  graceful  and 
distinct.  As  it  increases  quickly  at  the  base,  it  should  not  be  restricted 
for  root  room.  A.  Simoni  (Bambusa  Simoni)  is  vigorous,  graceful,  and 
perfectly  hardy.  It  grows  from  a  dozen  feet  to  sixteen  feet  high,  and  its 
upright  shoots,  and  long,  narrow,  light  green  leaves  are  pretty.  A. 
nitida,  with  its  purplish-brown  stems,  short  branches,  and  pale  green 
leaves,  is  one  of  the  most  handsome  of  Bamboos  when  suitably  placed. 
It  prefers  partial  shade  to  full  sunlight,  and  as  it  is  of  vigorous  growth, 
plenty  of  head-room  should  be  allowed  for  its  graceful  outline.  A. 
Veitchii  (syn.  Bambusa  Veitchii)  is  dwarf,  vigorous,  and  very  attractive, 
and  its  broad  leaves  are  of  a  pleasing  shade  of  green. 

Phyllostachys  nigra  (Bambusa  nigra),  with  its  long  dark  purple 
stems,  is  one  of  the  most  pleasing  of  vigorous  Bamboos.  P.  castillonis 
(Bambusa  castillonis)  produces  long  stems  clothed  with  bright  green 
leaves  marked  with  white.  It  is  of  good  growth  and  thoroughly  hardy. 
Another  particularly  handsome  sort  is  viridi-glaucescens,  with  long  ele- 
gant growths  and  glaucous  leaves.  P.  Quilioi  is  another  tall-growing 
species,  with  arching  growths  and  deep  green  leaves.  P.  aurea  (Bambusa 
aurea),  the  Golden  Bamboo,  is  very  showy.  It  grows  upwards  of  a 
dozen  feet  in  height,  and  its  graceful  stems,  as  well  as  its  leaves,  are  of 
a  golden-yellow  colour,  hence  the  name  Golden  Bamboo.  P.  fastuosa 
is,  however,  the  most  stately  of  all  hardy  Bamboos.  Rising  to  a  height 
of  eighteen  feet,  it  forms  plume-like  branches  with  dark  green  leaves 
which  keep  their  colour  later  in  the  spring  than  those  of  other  Bamboos. 

The  Berberis  family  forms  an  attractive  group  of  hardy  shrubs 
of  medium  growth.  They  all  flower  in  spring  and  early  summer,  and 
some  are  remarkable  for  the  free  display  of  showy  fruits  in  autumn, 
which  in  some  cases  hang  upon  the  leafless  bushes  until  Christmas.  The 
decaying  foliage  assumes  gorgeous  tints.  They  do  not  need  special 
care  in  the  preparation  of  soil  or  position  ;  in  fact,  it  is  well  to  remember 
that  the  purple-leaved  form  of  the  common  Barberry  always  gives  the 
best  results  in  rather  dry,  gravelly  soil,  because  if  planted  in  very  rich 
compost  it  is  apt  to  become  coarse  and  lose  much  of  its  purple  tint. 
Experience  proves  that  the  best  colour  effects  are  obtained  if  the  whole 
of  the  vigorous  shoots  of  this  ornamental  shrub  are  cut  down  every  year 
close  to  the  soil,  because  the  leaves  are  bigger  and  the  purple  colour 
more  intense  than  is  the  case  with  plants  left  uncut.  For  the  sake  of 
its  brightly-coloured  fruits  in  autumn  the  type  is  too  valuable  to  pass 


222  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

by  unnoticed.  It  should  be  planted  in  the  pleasure-grounds.  B.  vulgaris 
brachybotrys  and  B.  v.  macrocarpa  are  attractive  at  flowering-time.  B. 
v.  amurensis  has  glowing  scarlet  berries,  which  are  borne  with  great 
freedom  during  the  autumn.  It  is  of  good  growth.  Another  variety  of 
the  common  Barberry  noted  for  its  beauty  is  named  asperma  ;  it  is  very 
bright,  with  strings  of  scarlet  berries,  and  is  a  shrub  of  upright  habit. 
B.  Thunbergii  is  the  most  brilliant  autumn  coloured  Barberry  grown,  and 
was  introduced  from  Japan.  It  is  an  excellent  shrub  for  small  gardens, 
as  it  seldom  grows  more  than  three  feet  high.  It  bears  small  drooping 
flowers,  and  in  autumn  its  leaves  are  aglow  with  subtle  shades  of  orange, 
chocolate  brown,  crimson,  &c.  Few  shrubs  have  such  autumn  foliage 
as  this.  B.  sinensis,  a  Chinese  species,  is  very  free  and  pretty  in  autumn 
when  laden  with  its  showy  fruits,  at  which  time  its  brilliant  crimson 
leaves  stand  out  conspicuously  in  the  shrubbery.  It  is  of  dense,  bushy 
growth.  B.  aristata,  from  Nepaul,  has  reddish-coloured  bark,  and 
creates  a  pretty  picture  in  winter.  It  grows  six  feet  high,  with  stiff 
branches  and  bright  green  leaves.  The  rich  yellow  flowers,  borne  in 
racemes,  are  succeeded  by  scarlet  berries,  and  these  alone  entitle  it  to 
consideration.  B.  virescens  is  another  Barberry  with  brightly-coloured 
bark,  and  makes  an  effective  winter  shrub  by  the  water  side.  B.  wallichiana 
is  quite  distinct  from  all  the  foregoing.  Free  in  growth,  delightful 
in  blossom,  it  forms  a  neat,  much-branched  bush,  with  clusters  of  shining 
leaves  and  masses  of  drooping  flowers. 

Darwin's  Barberry  (B.  Darwinii)  is  the  best-known  member  of  the 
evergreen  group,  and  certainly  one  of  the  most  useful.  It  is  serviceable 
for  hedge-making,  and  when  grown  in  masses  on  a  sunny  bank  the 
effect  at  flowering-time  is  magnificent.  It  grows  from  six  to  twelve  feet 
in  height,  with  strong  shoots  clothed  with  small  glossy  green  leaves, 
and  from  about  the  middle  of  April  to  the  end  of  May  bears  great 
quantities  of  orange-yellow  flowers  in  rather  short  drooping  racemes. 
B.  congestiflora  hakeoides,  an  uncommon  early-flowering  Barberry,  bears 
deep  yellow  flowers  profusely.  It  is  of  sturdy  habit,  rather  slow  in 
growth,  and  dislikes  dull,  shady  positions.  For  general  effect  none 
surpass  B.  stenophylla  either  in  graceful  outline,  abundance  or  beauty 
of  flower.  It  is  a  hybrid  raised  between  Darwin's  Barberry  and  B. 
empetrifolia,  a  small-leaved,  trailing,  rock-garden  shrub.  The  progeny  is 
of  excellent  growth,  with  very  long  arching  shoots  and  narrow  deep 
green  leaves,  and  during  May  and  June  produces  a  wonderful  profusion 
of  dainty  yellow  flowers.  B.  bmifolia,  also  known  as  B.  dulcts,  has 
large,  drooping,  light  yellow  flowers  and  tiny,  deep  green,  box-like  leaves. 
This  showy  Chilian  shrub  is,  unfortunately,  seldom  met  with  outside 
good  collections  of  trees  and  shrubs.  B.  Aquifolium,  known  also  as 
Mahonia  Aquifolium,  is  quite  common.  It  is  an  ornamental  berry- 
producing  plant,  and  the  autumn  and  winter  colouring  of  its  leaves  is 
charming.  It  is  a  valuable  shrub  for  planting  beneath  the  shade  of 
trees.  The  varieties  rotundifolia  and  fascicularis  are  handsome  too. 
B.  japonica  is  distinct,  vigorous,  and  very  ornamental.  It  produces  a 
strong  stem  and  large  spiny  leaves,  composed  of  many  leaflets  and  sweet- 


GOOD  TREES  AND  SHRUBS  223 

scented  yellow  flowers  in  winter  and  early  spring.  B.  nepalensis  is  another 
beautiful  kind  deserving  attention.  It  is  free  in  growth,  floriferous,  and 
bears  an  abundance  of  purplish-coloured  berries.  B.  nervosa  (B.  glumacea) 
is  suitable  for  the  rock-garden,  as  it  is  dwarf  and  very  pretty.  Its 
leaves  are  deep  green,  and  it  bears  racemes  of  flowers  from  October 
onwards.  Several  useful  and  decorative  kinds  of  Berberis  have  been 
received  from  China  within  the  last  few  years,  notably  B.  Wilsonce,  a 
dwarf,  deciduous  shrub  with  numerous  small  leaves  and  long  spines, 
amongst  which  the  golden  flowers  appear  in  May  to  be  followed  by  rich 
red  berries,  which  ripen  in  autumn ;  B.  polyantha,  a  bush  five  feet  high 
with  yellow  flowers  and  red  fruits ;  B.  dictyophylla,  conspicuous  by 
reason  of  its  white  stems,  the  silvery  under-surface  of  its  leaves,  it's 
yellow  flowers  and  scarlet  fruits ;  and  B.  verruculosa,  a  dense  evergreen 
bush  two  feet  or  so  high  with  thick,  ovate  leaves,  yellow  flowers,  and 
purplish  fruits. 

Bryanthus  erectUS  is  a  dwarf  evergreen  for  the  rock-garden,  as 
well  as  a  permanent  edging  to  dwarf  shrubs.  Although  it  grows  in 
ordinary  soil,  it  makes  the  best  growth  and  yields  the  greatest  profusion 
of  small,  delicate,  rose-pink  flowers  in  terminal  clusters  in  peaty  soil, 
and  a  position  just  beyond  the  influence  of  fierce  sunlight.  If  the  ground 
is  properly  drained,  partially  shaded,  and  occasional  soakings  of  water 
are  given  while  growth  is  young,  a  brilliant  flower  display  follows.  This 
exquisite  little  shrub  is  far  too  seldom  seen.  B.  e'mpetriformis  is  also 
delightfully  free,  and,  like  the  last  named,  of  dwarf  growth ;  it  is  very 
uncommon.  Its  rosy-purple  flowers  are  borne  in  early  summer. 

Buddleia  globosa  (Orange  Ball  Tree)  is  the  hardiest  member  of 
a  rather  extensive  family.  In  addition  to  its  hardiness,  it  is  also  easily 
placed,  and  flourishes  in  almost  any  soil.  It  is  an  excellent  seaside 
shrub,  in  which  situation  it  not  only  grows  luxuriantly,  but  blossoms 
profusely.  It  does  not  often  grow  more  than  twelve  feet  high,  but  a 
plant  of  such  a  size,  when  displaying  its  wealth  of  orange-coloured,  ball- 
like  flowers,  is  the  most  conspicuous  shrub  in  flower  in  late  summer. 
It  is  half  an  evergreen,  and  its  long,  pointed  green  leaves  are  covered 
with  a  glaucous  tomentum  on  the  lower  surface.  B.  lindleyana  differs 
from  B.  globosa  by  reason  of  its  dwarfer  habit,  somewhat  tender  consti- 
tution, and  purplish-red  flowers,  borne  in  long,  terminal  racemes.  It 
should  be  planted  against  a  wall.  During  late  years  several  new  sorts 
have  been  introduced.  The  best  species  is  B.  variabilis,  but  it  is  better 
to  grow  the  varieties  Veitchiana  and  magnified  than  the  type.  Both 
produce  long  terminal  panicles  of  lilac-coloured,  honey-scented  flowers 
during  July  and  August,  the  inflorescences  often  being  eighteen  inches 
long.  They  require  rich  loamy  soil  and  the  best  results  are  obtained 
by  cutting  the  plants  back  almost  to  the  ground-line  every  February. 
An  older  and  more  tender  shrub  of  great  beauty  is  B.  Colvillei  from  Sikkim. 
It  bears  large,  terminal  racemes  of  bright-coloured  flowers  which 
resemble  small  Pentstemons,  but  may  only  be  grown  in  the  milder  parts 
of  the  country. 

BUXUS  (Box). — The  native  Box  Tree  (Buxus  sempervirens)  is  so 


224  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

familiar  that  it  is  not  necessary  to  consider  it  at  any  length  here,  but 
some  of  its  distinct  and  ornamental  forms  may  be  well  referred  to.  The 
silver  variegated  variety  is  very  handsome,  keeps  its  colour  well,  and, 
like  the  type,  succeeds  in  nearly  all  situations.  Its  pale  green  leaves 
are  speckled  with  cream- white.  A  good  companion  to  the  last  named 
is  B.  s.  aurea  variegata.  Similar  in  habit,  its  leaves  are  heavily  marked 
with  yellow  and  white.  The  variety  rotundifolia  is  of  sturd'y,  bushy 
habit,  and  very  distinct.  The  golden-leaved  form  of  B.  japonica  is 
excellent  for  winter  bedding.  It  is  of  compact  habit,  and  its  golden 
colour  is  permanent.  The  Minorca  Box  (B.  balearica)  delights  in  a  dry 
bank  facing  south-west.  It  is  of  excellent  growth  when  thus  placed, 
and,  as  autumn  approaches,  its  thick,  polished  green  leaves  are  touched 
with  bronze. 

Csesalpinia  japonica  is  a  pretty  and  uncommon  leguminous  shrub 
from  Japan.  It  is  suitable  for  massing,  and  its  glossy  green  leaves  are 
composed  of  numerous  leaflets,  while  its  rich,  yellow  flowers,  with  con- 
spicuous anthers,  are  borne  in  long  racemes  with  great  freedom.  It  grows 
luxuriantly  in  loam,  provided  the  drainage  is  good  and  the  position 
open  to  the  sun,  but,  at  the  same  time,  out  of  reach  of  cold  easterly 
winds.  It  is  a  pity  that  such  an  attractive,  free-growing  shrub  should 
be  so  seldom  seen  in  gardens. 

Calluna  VUlgaris  (Ling). — A  native  shrubby  plant  common  on  hill- 
sides and  waste  ground  in  many  parts  of  the  country  where  lime  is  not 
prevalent.  It  and  its  numerous  varieties  are  of  the  greatest  use  in  the 
garden  for  they  bloom  freely  from  early  August  until  the  end  of  September. 
Alportii  and  rubra  have  red  flowers,  and  alba,  Hammondi,  and  alba  Serlei 
are  good  white  flowered  kinds.  Aurea  has  golden  foliage  and  the  leaves 
of  cuprea  are  copper-coloured.  Hypnoides,  Foxii,  and  pygmcea  are  very 
dwarf  and  moss-like.  This  is  also  dealt  with  on  p.  184  under  "  The 
Heath  Garden." 

The  Calycanthuses  (Allspice)  form  a  small  group  of  American 
deciduous  shrubs,  varying  from  six  feet  to  twelve  feet  in  height.  All  have 
flowers  of  different  shades  of  red,  and  some  are  more  fragrant  than  others. 
They  succeed  in  soils  of  various  descriptions  and  aspects,  but  produce 
the  best  results  when  in  a  cool,  moist  soil,  with  the  additional  advantage 
of  partial  shade.  C.  floridus,  the  most  popular  of  Allspices,  was  intro- 
duced to  this  country  from  America  in  the  seventeenth  century.  It 
is  perfectly  hardy,  compact  in  growth,  and  its  bright  red,  deliciously- 
scented  flowers  are  about  the  size  of  a  five-shilling  piece,  and  borne 
freely.  C.  accidental! s}  which  is  the  same  as  macrophyllus  (Western  All- 
spice), is  more  vigorous,  and  with  larger  flowers  than  the  first  named. 
The  lively  green  leaves  are  also  larger  as  well  as  the  deep  crimson 
flowers,  but  these  are  unfortunately  rather  scantily  produced  on  small 
plants.  To  some  the  fragrance  of  the  flowers  of  the  popular  Allspice  is 
unpleasantly  strong,  but  those  of  C.  glaucus  are  not  so  fragrant.  The 
colour  is  reddish-purple. 

Caraganas  are  good  town  garden  shrubs,  and  excellent  for  dry 
soils.  The  Siberian  Pea  Tree  (C.  arborescens)  is  the  best  known  of  the 


THE    CAT  ALP  A    IN   FLOWER   IN   A    LONDON    GARDEN. 


.  .  ., 


SEED    PODS   OF   CAT  ALP  A    BIGNONIOIDES. 

These  are  not  often  produced  in  this  country,  but  during  the  hot 
summer  of  1911  they  were  found  in  several  places. 


GOOD   TREES   AND   SHRUBS  225 

group,  and  the  freest  in  growth  and  flower.    Bright  yellow  is  the  colour 
of  its  pea-shaped  flowers. 

Carpentaria  californica.—  Wherever  this  charming  Californian 
shrub  can  be  successfully  grown  it  should  be  represented,  as  it  bears  beauti- 
ful flowers.  It  delights  in  peat,  loam,  and  leaf-mould  in  equal  proportions, 
and  good  drainage  is  of  great  importance.  Be  careful,  too,  not  to  expose 
it  to  cold  east  and  north-east  winds,  as  these  do  considerable  damage  to 
young  growth.  It  grows  about  a  dozen  feet  in  height,  and  has  greyish- 
green  leaves,  whilst  its  sweet-scented,  pure  white  flowers  with  conspic- 
uous golden-yellow  stamens  in  the  centre,  are  produced  in  clusters  at  the 
points  of  the  growths  in  June. 

Cassandra  calyculata  (Andromeda  calyculatd). — A  freely-branched, 
low-growing  North-American  shrub,  producing  a  good  effect  when  planted 
in  large  masses  near  the  edge  of  water,  as  it  succeeds  best  in  a  cool,  moist 
root-run.  Its  wiry  shoots  are  clothed  with  small  bright  green  leaves, 
and  in  early  spring  small  bell-shaped  flowers  appear  in  quantity.  It  is 
thoroughly  hardv  and  prefers  full  exposure  to  partial  shade. 

Cassinia  flllvida,  also  known  under  the  name  of  Diplopappus  chryso- 
phyllus,  hails  from  New  Zealand,  and  forms  a  medium-sized,  much  branched 
shrub,  with  slender  bright  yellow  stems  and  tiny  green  leaves,  bright 
yellow  on  the  under  sides.  It  bears  creamy- white  flowers  in  terminal 
panicles  in  autumn,  and  these  are  conspicuous  for  two  or  three  months. 
It  is  a  good  seaside  shrub,  and  an  open  sunny  spot  favours  good  growth 
and  the  production  of  flowers. 

Catalpas  are  handsome  trees  for  the  garden,  delighting  in  poor 
soils,  and  flowers  appear  when  few  trees  and  shrubs  are  in  bloom.  They 
are  excellent  for  planting  on  the  lawn,  and  can  be  well  recommended  for 
towns.  C.  bignonioides ,  not  infrequently  called  syringcefolia,  the  well- 
known  Indian  Bean  Tree,  is  a  North-American  species  of  vigorous  growth, 
and  often  reaches  twenty-five  feet  high,  with  a  dense-spreading  head. 
Its  V-shaped  leaves  are  bright  green,  flushed  with  bronze  towards  the 
margins,  and  quite  downy  on  the  under  sides.  During  summer  it  bears 
at  the  branch  tips  erect  spikes  of  blush  white  flowers,  suffused  with  violet 
and  purple  in  the  yellow  throat.  It  is  very  free.  The  golden-leaved 
variety  (aiirea)  is  less  vigorous,  but  exceedingly  ornamental.  It  is  a 
yellow-leaved  counterpart  of  the  type,  and  may  be  planted  in  the  shrub- 
bery or  as  single  specimens  on  the  lawn  with  telling  effect,  and  if  the 
shoots  made  during  the  previous  year  are  cut  hard  back  in  February  the 
foliage  is  larger  and  richer  in  colour.  C.  cordifolia  (C.  speciosa)  is  even 
more  ornamental  than  the  first  named,  and  perfectly  hardy.  It  also 
blooms  early,  and  the  flowers  are  larger  and  brighter  in  colour.  It  is 
free  in  growth,  and  a  first-rate  shade  tree.  Catalpas  like  moisture, 
and  this  is  the  reason  why  the  trees  are  so  luxurious  and  shapely  in  the 
gardens  of  the  Thames  valley.  Several  new  species  have  been  received 
from  China  during  the  present  century,  which  differ  from  the  older  kinds 
by  having  rosy-purple  or  reddish-purple  flowers.  Two  of  the  best  are 
C.  Fargesii  and  C.  Daclouxii. 

Caryopteris  Mastacanthus  produces  pretty  light  blue  flowers  over 

P 


226  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

a  considerable  period  in  autumn,  a  time  when  shrubs  in  flower  are  scarce, 
consequently  its  value  is  enhanced.  It  is  not,  unfortunately,  hardy 
generally,  but  is  well  worth  a  place  against  a  wall.  Avoid  planting  in 
cold,  bleak  situations,  and  use,  if  possible,  a  soil  consisting  of  fibrous 
loam  and  leaf -mould,  with  the  addition  of  a  little  coarse  silver  sand  or 
grit.  To  ensure  a  thorough  ripening  of  the  wood,  select  a  sunny  position. 
The  white-flowered  form  is  not  so  hardy  as  the  type,  and  the  flowers  are 
produced  rather  sparingly. 

The  Ceanothuses  are  delightfully  free-flowering  shrubs,  but  un- 
fortunately not  sufficiently  hardy  for  general  outdoor  planting  north 
of  London,  as  they  suffer  in  severe  winters.  For  clothing  warm  walls, 
especially  if  the  soil  is  fairly  rich  and  the  drainage  ample,  they  are  ex- 
cellent, and  few  shrubs  are  more  brilliant  in  summer.  C.  americamis 
(New  Jersey  Tea)  comes  from  America,  and  bears  an  abundance  of  white 
flowers ;  it  is  very  hardy  and  ornamental.  C.  Veitchianus,  from  California, 
is  of  free  growth,  and  very  showy  when  bearing  its  clusters  of  bright  blue 
flowers.  C.  dentatus  has  deeply-toothed  leaves  and  rich  blue  flowers, 
borne  in  advance  of  those  of  the  last  named.  It  is  very  free-flowering, 
and  continues  in  blossom  for  about  four  months.  C.  papillosus  and  C. 
verrucosus  are  very  floriferous  and  ornamental.  C.  rigidus,  with  deep 
blue  flowers,  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  of  all.  It  thrives  on  a  wall  with 
soil,  west  or  south  exposure.  C.  azureus,  introduced  from  Mexico  early 
in  the  nineteenth  century,  is  a  compact,  free-growing  shrub,  often  many 
feet  in  height  when  suitably  placed.  Its  bright  blue  flowers  appear  from 
midsummer  onwards.  The  writer  is  acquainted  with  a  gardener  at 
Ealing  in  Middlesex,  where  the  shrub  has  grown  to  the  roof ;  the  aspect 
is  south.  Of  the  many  beautiful  garden  forms  belonging  to  this  species 
the  following  are  worthy  of  mention  here.  Gloire  de  Versailles  is  the 
most  popular.  It  is  free  in  growth,  with  large  leaves,  and  bright  blue 
flowers,  borne  in  long  racemes.  Marie  Simon  is  another  good  kind ; 
and  Albert  Pettitt,  Indigo  (a  rich  indigo  colour),  Lucy  Simon,  Albidus, 
and  Arnoldi  are  noteworthy  too. 

Cercis  Siliquastrum  (Judas  Tree)  is  a  beautiful  tree  when  laden 
with  its  wealth  of  rosy-purple  blossoms,  which  appear  in  spring  before 
the  kidney-shaped,  glossy  green  leaves.  It  is  a  small  growing,  freely 
branched  tree,  and  succeeds  fairly  well  in  dry  sandy  soil,  but  it  produces 
the  best  growth  by  the  lake  or  stream  side,  and  in  such  a  position  the 
flowers  are  not  only  deeper  in  colour,  but  they  remain  in  good  condition 
for  a  much  longer  time  than  those  produced  in  sandy  soil.  It  may  be 
planted  also  against  a  wall. 

Chimonanthus  fragrans  (Winter  Sweet).— This  should  be  re- 
presented in  every  garden  where  hardy  shrubs  are  treasured  for  their 
flowers.  It  was  introduced  from  Japan  upwards  of  one  hundred  and 
thirty  years  ago,  and  is  of  strong  growth,  especially  when  planted  in 
deep,  rich,  moist  soil,  and  as  its  soft  yellow  flowers  are  produced  in  mid- 
winter along  the  leafless  twigs,  it  should  be  given  a  prominent  place  to 
reveal  its  beauty.  The  variety  grandiflorus  bears  larger  flowers  than 
the  type,  but  they  are  not  so  strongly  scented.  The  Chimonanthus 


THE  LARGE-FLOWERED  WINTER  SWEET  (CHIMONANTHES 
FRAGRANS   GRANDIFLORA). 


GOOD   TREES  AND   SHRUBS  227 

flowers  are  borne  on  wood  of  the  previous  season's  growth,  consequently 
all  pruning  and  thinning  of  the  shoots  should  be  attended  to  in  early 
spring,  as  the  full  growing  season  is  then  available  for  the  production  of 
wood. 

Chionanthus  virgfinicus  (Fringe  Tree)  is  a  charming  deciduous 
shrub  with  fragrant  white  thread-like  flowers  in  great  drooping  clusters. 
It  is  a  North -American  shrub ;  succeeds  best  in  cool  soil  and  partial 
shade.  It  has  lately  been  used  for  forcing  with  considerable  success 
for  indoor  decoration  during  winter.  Hard  forcing  should  be  avoided, 
and  the  plants  never  allowed  to  want  for  water. 

Choisya  ternata  (Mexican  Orange  Flower)  is  a  precious  shrub  with 
bright  evergreen  foliage,  and  in  spring  each  matured  shoot  bears  a  terminal 
cluster  of  white  sweet-scented  flowers,  which  are  well  adapted  for  placing 
in  bowls  for  room  decoration,  as  they  can  be  cut  with  their  own  foliage. 
It  also  blooms  in  autumn  and  during  very  mild  winters.  The  Mexican 
Orange  Flower  is  hardy  in  most  parts  of  the  British  Isles,  is  bushy,  of 
free  growth,  and  flourishes  in  ordinary  soil.  It  should  be  planted  liber- 
ally, as  it  is  one  of  the  gems  of  the  shrub  garden.  It  is  not  advisable  to 
expose  it  to  cold  east  winds,  and  a  few  plants  in  pots  make  a  welcome 
addition  to  shrubs  suitable  for  forcing.  In  very  cold  localities  space 
should  be  reserved  for  it  against  a  wall.  Cuttings  of  young  shoots  taken 
off  about  midsummer  and  planted  in  light  soil  and  placed  in  a  warm  case 
emit  roots  in  about  a  fortnight. 

The  Rock  Roses,  or  Gum  CistUSes,  are  excellent  shrubs  for  dry 
banks,  particularly  if  facing  south  or  south-west,  because  it  is  only  on 
perfectly  ripened  shoots  that  flowers  are  produced,  and  although  the 
latter  are  of  such  fleeting  duration  they  are  borne  in  profusion  over  a 
long  period.  C.  florentinus  is  a  charming  kind,  neat  in  growth  and  very 
free-flowering.  Its  white  flowers  are  blotched  with  yellow.  C.  ladani- 
ferus,  the  typical  Gum  Cistus,  has  thick  sticky  leaves  and  bold  white 
flowers  blotched  with  purple.  A  grand  plant  for  the  sea-coast,  C.  villosus, 
bears  lilac-coloured  flowers  suffused  with  purple.  C.  laurifolius  is  another 
pretty  free-flowering  kind,  and  quite  hardy.  Its  flowers  are  white. 

Clerodendron  trichotomum.— Here  we  have  another  autumn- 
flowering  shrub  or  small  tree,  introduced  a  hundred  years  ago.  It  is 
vigorous  and  distinct  both  in  foliage  and  in  flower,  its  ovate  deep  green 
leaves  changing  in  autumn  to  shades  of  orange  and  red,  and  its  sweet- 
scented  flowers  appear  abundantly  in  terminal  cymes,  the  conspicuous 
purple  calyces  affording  additional  beauty.  It  delights  in  a  rich,  well- 
drained  soil,  and  protection  from  piercing  winds  is  essential. 

Clethras. — Few  hardy  Clethras  are  cultivated  in  this  country,  still 
they  are  exceedingly  ornamental,  easily  grown,  and  all  have  fragrant 
flowers.  They  grow  well  in  fibrous  loam,  but  prefer  a  moist,  peaty  soil. 
C.  alnifolia  (the  Alder-leaved  Pepper-Tree)  is  rarely  more  than  five  feet 
high,  and  bears  a  great  profusion  of  small  white  flowers  towards  mid- 
summer. The  variety  tomentosa  should  be  grown  for  its  flower  display. 
It  is  of  similar  habit  to  the  type,  but  the  flowers  are  bigger  and  borne 
at  least  three  weeks  later. 


228  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

The  Coluteas  (Bladder  Sennas)  are  very  accommodating  shrubs,  as 
there  is  scarcely  a  position  in  which  they  refuse  to  grow.  No  soil,  how- 
ever poor,  comes  amiss  to  them,  as  they  grow  freely  and  flower  profusely 
in  wet  as  well  as  in  dry  situations.  They  are  also  excellent  shrubs  for 
smoky  districts.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  cut  them  hard  back  every  spring, 
as  vigorous  growth  follows  close  pruning.  There  is  a  profusion  of 
bladder-like  seed-pods,  at  first  red,  then  changing  to  orange-yellow  in 
autumn. 

The  Dogwoods  (Cornus)  are  deciduous  shrubs  of  free  growth.  They 
comprise  silver,  gold,  and  green-leaved  forms,  and  some,  like  C.  florida 
and  C.  Kousa,  are  valuable  flowering  shrubs,  and  C.  alba  is  one  of  the 
most  effective  of  red  stemmed  shrubs  in  winter ;  it  is  an  excellent  kind 
for  planting  along  the  water  margin,  as  the  reflection  of  the  bark  in  the 
water  in  winter  makes  warm  colouring  in  the  garden.  Sibirica  is  a  good 
variety.  Spcethii  is  a  brilliant  golden-leaved  shrub,  and  does  not  burn 
in  hot  suns  as  in  the  case  of  the  majority  of  yellow-leaved  shrubs.  Its 
delicate  pale  green  leaves  are  marked  with  yellow  and  irregularly  bordered 
with  a  deeper  shade.  C.  macrophylla  has  bright  green  leaves,  which  in 
autumn  are  heavily  shaded  with  red.  It  is  conspicuous  in  early  summer 
when  bearing  its  large  clusters  of  white  flowers.  The  Cornelian  Cherry 
(C.  Mas)  is  a  small  growing  tree  of  erect  bushy  habit  with  slender  branches, 
and  in  February  bears  clusters  of  small  yellow  flowers.  It  grows  freely  in 
dry  soil.  C.  Nuttallii,  a  native  of  California,  forms  a  large  tree  which  is 
conspicuous  by  reason  of  the  six  large  white  bracts  which  surround  each 
flower  head  and  by  the  brilliant  colour  of  its  foliage  in  autumn.  It  is 
only  known  as  a  bush  in  this  country. 

The  genus  Corylopsis  contains  several  uncommon  deciduous  shrubs 
of  much  merit ;  they  are  quite  hardy,  dwarf,  and  delightfully  free,  well 
deserving  a  place  against  a  west  wall,  as  the  flowers  are  seen  there  to 
better  advantage  than  when  on  plants  in  the  open  shrubbery.  They  do 
well  in  almost  any  properly- drained  soil.  C.  spicata,  a  Japanese  shrub, 
is  the  choicest  member  of  the  genus,  and  in  February  carries  sweet- 
scented  yellowish  flowers  in  drooping  spikes.  C.  himalayana  is  taller 
and  more  vigorous  than  the  last  named,  and  C.  pauciflora  is  not,  as  its 
name  leads  one  to  suppose,  shy  flowering.  It  is  a  welcome  free- 
flowering  shrub. 

Cotoneasters. — Here  we  have  a  group  of  useful  trees  and  shrubs, 
thoroughly  hardy,  free  in  growth,  and  charming  when  laden  with  their 
clusters  of  richly-coloured  berries  in  autumn.  Ordinary  soil  suits  them. 
The  vigorous  C.  buxifolia  has  small  deep  green  Box-like  leaves,  bears  an 
abundance  of  white  flowers,  and  bright  red  berries  in  autumn.  C.  rotundi- 
folia,  a  Himalayan  species,  grows  about  four  feet  high,  is  rather  slow  in 
growth,  free  in  blossom,  and  retains  its  richly-coloured  berries  through- 
out the  winter.  C.  microphylla,  also  from  the  Himalayas,  is  a  close 
growing  evergreen  shrub  of  excellent  habit,  and  the  best  of  the  Coton- 
easters for  clothing  ugly  walls.  Its  leaves  are  small,  very  deep  green,  and 
its  delicate  blush  white  flowers  are  succeeded  by  attractive  berries.  C. 
frigida  is  very  pleasing  in  flower  as  well  as  in  fruit.  It  forms  a  small  tree. 


GOOD   TREES   AND   SHRUBS  229 

C.  Simonsii,  also  free  in  growth,  is  another  conspicuous  autumn  shrub. 
Its  berries  are  bright  red  and  borne  in  great  profusion ;  a  most  useful 
kind  for  town  and  country  gardens.  C.  horizontalis  is  a  very  pretty  shrub 
in  autumn.  It  bears  a  quantity  of  bright  berries,  and  the  foliage  dies  off 
with  resplendent  hues.  It  is  of  low-spreading  habit,  and  delights  in  a 
sunny  spot  to  bring  out  its  leaf  colours.  Several  new  species  have  been 
introduced  from  China  during  the  last  twenty  years.  Of  these  C.  bullata, 
a  strong-growing  shrub  with  rather  loose  branches,  bears  large,  dark 
green  leaves  and  is  very  showy  in  autumn  by  reason  of  large  axillary 
clusters  of  bright  red  berries.  C.  applanata  is  another  very  beautiful 
shrub ;  its  fruits  are  bright  red  also,  and  are  borne  in  profusion.  C. 
pannosa  grows  at  least  eight  feet  high  and  bears  scarlet  berries  lightly 
covered  with  white  down.  C.  Franchetii  is  likewise  a  vigorous-growing 
species  somewhat  like  the  last  named.  Both  are  from  Yunnan.  C. 
angustifolia  resembles  the  common  Pyracantha  in  many  respects  but 
bears  orange -coloured  fruits. 

CrataegTLS  (Thorn}, — A  lovely  group  of  free-growing  small  trees, 
well  adapted  for  the  small  garden.  They  vary  considerably  in  habit  of 
growth,  as  well  as  in  the  colour  and  size  of  flower,  and  are  essentially 
spring-flowering.  Few  trees  of  similar  growth  are  more  effective  at  that 
period  of  the  year.  Many  of  them,  too,  bear  a  profusion  of  brilliant 
fruits  in  autumn  and  winter.  C.  Crus-galli  (Cockspur  Thorn),  from 
North  America,  has  long  stiff  spines,  with  which  the  branches  are  beset. 
Its  large  flowers  are  white,  and  succeeded  by  numerous  clusters  of  crimson 
fruits,  which  are  sometimes  retained  upon  the  leafless  branches  until 
spring.  The  brilliant  tinted  foliage  also  hangs  upon  the  trees  for  a  long 
time.  The  varieties  prunifolia  and  ovalifolia  are  also  showy  autumn 
trees.  C.  Azarolus  makes  an  admirable  specimen  for  the  lawn,  being  of 
graceful  habit  and  flowering  after  many  of  the  thorns  have  lost  their 
blossom  beauty.  Its  large  yellow  fruits  are  showy  and  borne  with  great 
freedom.  C.  pinnatifida  begins  growth  early  in  spring,  and  in  autumn 
its  deeply  cut  leaves  are  heavily  suffused  with  orange-yellow.  Its  fruits 
are  large  and  handsome.  C.  coccinea,  the  North-American  scarlet-fruited 
Thorn,  grows  freely  in  moist  soil,  forming  a  well-balanced  head,  and  when 
laden  with  its  white  flower-clusters  in  April  and  May  it  is  strikingly  beauti- 
ful. It  seldom  grows  more  than  twenty-five  feet  in  height,  and  its  rich 
green  leaves  change  in  autumn  to  brilliant  crimson,  at  which  time  its 
showy  fruits  appear  in  profusion.  C.  macrantha  is  another  very  fine 
autumnal  tinted  tree.  C.  heterophylla,  known  also  as  C.  multiflora,  is 
of  excellent  growth,  very  free,  and  bears  crimson  fruit.  C.  tanaceti- 
folia  (Tansy-leaved  Thorn)  is  very  beautiful,  having  much  cut  grey 
leaves  and  sweet-scented  flowers  and  yellow  fruits.  It  blooms  quite 
late.  C.  Carrierei  is  free  in  growth  and  very  ornamental.  Its  large 
orange-red  fruits  are  showy  and  hang  upon  the  tree  generally  until  spring. 
C.  Douglasii  is  vigorous,  flowers  early,  and  has  dark  fruits.  The  Wash- 
ington Thorn  (C.  cordata)  is  a  conspicuous  autumn  tree  with  great  corymbs 
of  white  flowers  late  in  spring  and  showy  fruit  in  autumn.  Amongst  the 
numerous  varieties  of  the  Common  Thorn  the  following  are  especially 


230  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

good :  Lucida,  flowers  double  white ;  flore  pleno  coccineo,  flowers 
double  scarlet ;  flore  pleno  roseo,  flowers  double,  rose  coloured ;  flore 
puniceo,  flowers  single  red ;  atrofusca,  weeping  habit,  flowers  white. 
Paul's  Scarlet  is  a  very  bright  kind.  C.  Pyracantha  (Evergreen  Fire 
Thorn)  is  a  well-known  shrub,  usually  planted  against  a  wall,  and  is  one 
of  the  most  attractive  of  shrubs  for  this  purpose.  The  berries  are  borne 
in  clusters,  and  if  birds  are  kept  off,  will  remain  fresh  for  the  greater  part 
of  the  winter.  All  the  Thorns  thrive  in  any  good  soil. 

Cytisus  (Broom). — This  is  a  fairly  large  group  of  shrubs,  with  pea- 
shaped  flowers.  Ordinary  soil  suits  them,  and  they  succeed  well  in  dry 
situations.  Those  mentioned  are  perfectly  hardy  and  satisfactory  in  all 
ways.  C.  biflorus  is  of  sturdy  growth  and  very  free-flowering.  Its 
bright  yellow  flowers  are  borne  in  clusters.  The  Black  Cytisus  (C. 
nigricans),  from  Austria,  bears  rich  yellow  flowers  in  erect  racemes 
towards  midsummer.  C.  prcecox,  a  hybrid  between  C.  albus  and  C. 
purgans,  is  a  grand  shrub  for  massing.  In  habit  it  is  less  vigorous  than 
the  White  Broom.  The  flowers  are  sulphur  yellow.  C.  capitatus  is  a 
much  branched  bush,  four  feet  high,  with  bright  yellow  flowers  at  the 
points  of  the  growths.  C.  purgans  is  a  charming  free-growing  and  free- 
flowering  dwarf  shrub.  Its  flowers  are  bright  yellow.  C.  purpureus  is 
another  good  dwarf  spreading  shrub,  which  bears  dull  purple  flowers 
during  May  and  June.  The  flowering  branches  must  be  cut  away  as 
soon  as  the  flowers  fade.  As  it  is  of  procumbent  habit  it  deserves  a  place 
in  the  rock-garden.  C.  kewensis  is  another  rock-garden  Cytisus,  raised 
by  crossing  C.  Ardoinii  with  C.  albus.  It  is  of  creeping  habit,  and  bears 
a  profusion  of  cream-coloured  flowers.  C.  albus  (White  Broom),  C. 
scoparius  (Yellow  Broom)  are  too  well  known  to  need  description,  and 
andreanus,  a  variety  of  the  last  named,  also  known  as  Genista  andreana, 
is  very  showy  and  blooms  profusely.  C.  Beanii  is  a  dwarf,  golden-flowered 
hybrid  suitable  for  the  rockery  and  C.  Dallimorei,  a  hybrid  between  C. 
scoparius  andreanus  and  C.  albus,  bears  a  profusion  of  rosy-purple 
flowers  and  grows  four  or  five  feet  high.  Groups  of  White  and  Common 
Broom  are  very  beautiful  and  are  the  shrubs  to  plant  in  rough  places, 
where  one  wants  to  preserve  a  wild  free  growth. 

Dabcecia  polifolia  (St.  Dabeoc's  Heath),  and  its  varieties,  alba  and 
bicolor,  are  exceptionally  pretty  free-flowering  dwarf  evergreens,  which 
seem  to  flourish  best  in  damp  peaty  soil.  They  are  just  the  kind  of 
shrubs  for  planting  in  masses  at  the  foot  of  the  rock-garden,  as  their 
neat  habit  fits  them  for  such  a  position.  The  drooping  flowers  of  each 
are  borne  in  erect  terminal  racemes  in  summer  and  autumn.  The  type 
has  crimson-purple  flowers  ;  alba,  white  ;  and  bicolor,  white  and  purple 
on  the  same  plant  (see  also  p.  185). 

Daphnes. — These  are  low-growing,  deciduous,  and  evergreen  shrubs, 
native  of  Europe,  Japan,  China,  &c.  The  family  is  a  fairly  large  one, 
and  many  species  are  suitable  for  open-air  culture  in  this  country..  They 
should  be  planted  in  rich  soil  of  good  depth,  and  as  they  require  plenty 
of  water  while  growth  is  being  made,  perfect  drainage  should  be  provided. 
It  is  also  advisable  to  shield  them  from  cold  winds.  Few  shrubs  are  more 


GOOD   TREES   AND   SHRUBS  231 

welcome  during  winter  and  early  spring  than  the  Mezereon  (D.  Mezereum), 
when  its  sturdy  leafless  branches  are  crowded  with  small  clusters  of  rosy- 
purple,  deliciously-scented  flowers.  It  is  a  good  shrub  for  grouping,  and 
flowers  most  freely  in  an  open  spot  shielded  from  the  sun  in  the  hottest 
part  of  the  day.  There  is  a  variety  with  white  flowers  (alba),  and  another 
with  red  flowers  (autumnalis).  The  last  named  is  a  good  garden  shrub, 
not  only  for  its  richly-coloured  flowers,,  but  because  they  are  produced 
over  such  a  long  period.  It  is  not  unusual  for  it  to  keep  up  a  succession 
of  bloom  for  about  four  months.  D.  Genkwa,  from  Japan,  should  be 
planted  extensively,  as  its  hardiness  is  thoroughly  established,  and  its 
flowers  are  of  distinct  colour.  It  forms  a  loose,  bushy,  free-growing  shrub, 
with  slender  branches,  and  when  laden  with  its  delicate  lilac-shaded 
flowers  is  very  handsome.  One  of  the  most  dainty  of  evergreen  Daphnes 
is  undoubtedly  D.  blagayana,  introduced  nearly  forty  years  ago  from 
Syria.  Notwithstanding  its  hardiness,  freedom,  and  the  fact  that  its 
sweet-scented,  ivory-white  flowers  appear  in  March,  it  is  by  no  means 
common.  D.  alpina  is  a  charming  little  plant  from  the  European  Alps, 
and  quite  at  home  in  the  rock-garden.  It  is  neat  in  growth,  and  bears 
pinkish-white  blossoms  in  early  spring.  The  Garland  Flower  (D.  Cneo- 
rum)  is  another  fine  rock-garden  Daphne ;  it  is  dwarf,  compact,  free  in 
growth,  and  has  delightful  blossoms.  Few  flowering  shrubs  of  similar 
growth  create  a  better  effect  than  the  Garland  Flower  when  displaying  its 
rose-coloured  fragrant  blossoms  at  the  ends  of  the  growths,  and  these 
remain  fresh  and  attractive  for  a  considerable  time.  D.  Laureola 
(Spurge  Laurel)  and  D.  pontica  are  valuable  principally  because  they 
flourish  under  the  drip  of  trees.  The  flowers  of  both  species  are  greenish- 
yellow  and  fragrant.  D.  sericea,  known  also  as  D.  collina,  is  a  distinct 
and  beautiful  species  of  dwarf  habit,  with  deep  green  leaves  and  large 
clusters  of  sweet-scented,  rose-coloured  flowers. 

Desfontainea  spinosa  should  have  a  place  against  a  warm  wall, 
as  it  is  not  sufficiently  hardy  to  endure  open-air  culture  in  all  parts  of 
the  British  Isles.  It  is  a  sturdy,  holly-like  shrub  from  Chili,  and  when 
planted  in  rich  soil  and  well  supplied  with  water  in  spring  produces  a 
wealth  of  drooping  scarlet  and  yellow  flowers. 

Deutzias. — These  are  ornamental  deciduous  shrubs  with,  as  a  rule, 
white  flowers.  They  are  quite  hardy,  free  in  growth,  floriferous,  and 
useful  for  forcing  as  well  as  for  giving  variety  to  the  shrubbery  border. 
D.  gmcilis,  a  slender-growing  shrub  two  feet  or  so  high,  is  in  great  demand 
for  forcing,  as  its  flowers  readily  respond  to  gentle  heat.  Its  variety 
Lemoinei  is  of  erect  sturdier  growth,  and  its  pure  white  flowers  appear 
in  neat  trusses.  D.  corymbiflora  should  be  included  in  a  select  list  of 
Deutzias.  It  is  a  distinct  kind,  with  large  graceful  panicles  of  snow- 
white  flowers.  D.  crenata,  erroneously  known  as  D.  scabra,  is  vigorous 
and  very  handsome.  Its  pure  white  flowers  are  borne  in  racemes  freely 
and  it  grows  about  eight  feet  high.  The  variety  punctata  is  very  showy, 
has  variegated  foliage  ;  and  the  double-flowered  form,  named  flore  pleno, 
is  heavily  shaded  with  reddish-purple.  Pride  of  Rochester  is  another 
excellent  variety  with  double  flowers,  but  in  this  case  they  are  pure 


23 2  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

white.  The  introduction  of  D.  discolor  and  its  variety  purpurascens, 
both  natives  of  China,  gave  an  opportunity  for  the  hybridist  to  raise  a 
number  of  beautiful  hybrids.  These  two  kinds  have  large  purplish 
flowers,  and  many  of  the  new  kinds  have  pink  or  purple  shaded  blossoms. 
Good  ones  are :  floribunda,  campanalata,  carminea,  and  multiflora. 
Crossed  with  other  species  such  kinds  as  kalimceflora,  Boule  de  Neige, 
and  Avalanche  have  originated,,  all  of  which  are  showy  shrubs.  A  new 
species  from  China,  D.  Vilmorinece,  is  remarkable  for  its  vigorous  growth 
and  fine  flowers.  Growing  at  least  six  feet  high,  it  bears  large  inflores- 
cences of  white  flowers.  D.  Wilsoni  is  another  new  Chinese  species.  Its 
flowers  are  white  and  borne  in  large  corymbs.  Two  species  with  purple 
flowers  have  but  recently  been  brought  to  notice.  These  are  D.  longi- 
folia  and  D.  Veitchii.  Both  are  from  China.  All  like  moderately  rich 
well- drained  soil. 

Diervillas,  better  known  in  gardens  as  Weigelas,  or  Bush  Honey- 
suckles, form  a  delightful  group  of  free-growing  shrubs  with  bell-shaped 
blossoms  of  varied  colour.  They  are  quite  hardy  and  succeed  well  in 
sandy  soil ;  but  the  greatest  display  is  obtained  when  planted  in  fibrous 
loam  with  which  has  been  incorporated  a  good  quantity  of  leaf-soil. 
Bush  Honeysuckles  love  a  sunny  position.  The  stock  can  be  readily 
increased  by  cuttings  taken  off  in  June  and  planted  in  sandy  soil  and 
placed  in  gentle  heat.  Beyond  the  removal  of  worn-out  growths  and 
the  sappy  shoots  little  or  no  pruning  is  required.  D.  grandiflora  flowers 
early  and  remains  attractive  for  several  weeks.  It  has  rose-pink  flowers 
in  abundance.  Rosea  bears  rose-coloured  flowers  in  April  and  May. 
Hortensis  nivea  has  pure  white  blossoms,  and  is  very  free  and  lasting. 
Looymansi  aurea  is  conspicuous,  as  it  has  golden-coloured  foliage,  which 
fortunately  does  not  burn  in  the  sun.  In  spring  the  leaves  are  bright 
yellow  and  in  autumn  heavily  stained  with  brown.  Abel  Carriere  is  a 
beautiful  variety  with  large  reddish-carmine  flowers,  produced  abund- 
antly. Eva  Rathke  is  decidedly  the  best  of  the  later  flowering  kinds, 
and  should  be  in  all  gardens  where  attractive  deciduous  shrubs  are  ad- 
mired. It  is  of  bushy  growth,  free-blooming,  and  its  medium-sized 
flowers,  of  a  deep  purplish-crimson  hue,  are  borne  from  midsummer 
until  late  autumn. 

Dipelta,  a  group  of  shrubs  closely  allied  to  the  Diervillas.  Several 
species,  all  natives  of  China,  are  known,  and  two,  D.  floribunda  and  D. 
ventricosa,  have  been  introduced.  Both  have  tubular  flowers,  those  of 
the  former  being  white  with  a  rose-coloured  flush  on  the  outer  side  and 
yellow-marked  within,  and  those  of  the  latter  reddish-purple  outside  and 
white  and  yellow  inside.  They  require  similar  soil  and  cultivation  to 
the  Diervillas. 

Elaeagnuses  (Oleasters) . — These  are  valuable,  and  include  deciduous 
and  evergreen  kinds.  They  are  of  the  simplest  culture  and  thoroughly 
hardy.  For  planting  on  dry  banks  the  variegated  evergreen  Oleasters 
are  a  success,  and  if  the  position  is  a  sunny  one  the  leaf  coloration  is 
particularly  bright  during  winter.  They  are  also  excellent  for  planting 
as  single  specimens  on  the  fringe  of  the  lawn,  and  few  shrubs  are  better 


GOOD   TREES   AND   SHRUBS  233 

adapted  than  the  evergreen  Oleasters  for  clothing  ugly  walls.  E.  angus- 
tifolia,  from  Southern  Europe,  forms  quite  a  tree,  and  needs  plenty  of 
head  room  to  display  its  true  beauty.  It  has  narrow  leaves,  light  green 
with  a  white  reverse,  and  its  clusters  of  delightfully  fragrant  full  yellow 
flowers  borne  in  the  leaf  axils  are  succeeded  by  showy  fruits.  E.  longipes 
grows  about  eight  feet  high  and  as  much  or  more  through,  and  flourishes 
in  hungry  soils.  It  is  a  very  handsome  shrub  when  in  fruit,  and  is  worth 
planting  largely  for  this  reason.  The  North- American  Silver  Berry 
(E.  argentea)  is  another  beautiful  deciduous  species,  with  sweet-scented 
flowers.  It  has  silvered  leaves,  and  the  clusters  of  yellowish  flowers 
are  followed  by  roundish  berries.  E.  umbellata  is  an  ornamental  Japan- 
ese species.  It  is  of  good  growth,  and  during  summer  bears  cream- 
coloured  flowers.  E.  macrophylla,  a  Japanese  species  of  robust  growth, 
has  a  lavish  display  in  winter  of  greenish-yellow  flowers.  Its  bright  green 
leaves  are  powdered  on  the  under  sides  with  white,  and  when  ruffled 
by  the  wind  a  pleasing  effect  is  created.  E.  pungens  is  a  bold  green- 
leaved  winter-flowering  species  ;  but  its  golden-leaved  form  (aurea)  is 
the  showiest  of  the  group.  It  is  strong  in  growth,  and  the  greater  part 
of  its  leaves  are  rich  yellow  slightly  margined  with  pale  green.  A  grand 
shrub  for  the  lawn. 

Empetrum  nigrum  (The  Native  Crowberry)  flourishes  in  soil  suit- 
able for  Heaths.  It  is  a  neat  evergreen  shrub,  well  adapted  for  edging 
beds,  and  is  also  worthy  of  a  place  in  a  shady  nook  in  the  rock-garden. 
It  has  small  pink  flowers  and  dark  berries. 

The  hardy  Ericas  (Heaths)  are  quite  unfamiliar  in  many  gardens. 
The  general  belief  that  they  only  make  satisfactory  growth  in  peaty 
soil  is  wrong,  as  they  grow  freely  and  flower  abundantly  in  loamy  soil 
provided  it  is  sweet,  suitably  drained,  and  free  from  lime.  If  an  annual 
surface  dressing  of  leaf-mould  can  be  given  much  good  will  result.  They 
may  be  used  in  a  variety  of  ways  with  excellent  effect.  For  instance, 
the  dwarf,  cushion-like  Heaths  are  serviceable  for  edgings  to  beds  of 
low-growing  American  shrubs,  while  the  taller  growing  kinds  are  not 
out  of  place  in  the  shrubbery  provided  sunlight  and  air  are  not  shut  out. 
The  flowers  appear  over  a  long  period,  and  some  of  the  kinds — viz. 
lusitanica,  mediterranea,  and  its  varieties — are  produced  when  flowers 
are  by  no  means  plentiful  out  of  doors.  The  following  is  a  list  of  pretty 
Heaths  suitable  for  the  open  garden,  and  it  may  be  taken  as  representing 
the  various  groups.  E.  lusitanica,  from  Spain  and  Portugal,  is  rather 
tender,  and  at  flowering  time — between  February  and  May — few  Heaths 
are  more  pleasing.  The  drooping  flowers  are  pale  pink,  almost  white, 
and  appear  on  almost  every  small  twig.  The  Tree  Heath  (E.  arborea) 
grows  eight  or  nine  feet  high  and  flowers  about  the  same  time  as  the  last 
named.  Its  flowers  are  white,  a  noble  kind.  E.  Tetralix,  a  native  cross- 
leaved  species,  carries  a  profusion  of  delicate  pink  flowers  towards  mid- 
summer. The  red  and  white  varieties  are  very  beautiful,  too,  and  de- 
light in  moist  soil.  E.  mediterranea  is  a  free-growing  species,  often 
reaching  three  feet  in  height,  and  is  beautiful  in  mid- January  with  its 
pink  flowers.  The  variety  hybrida  is  an  improvement  on  the  type.  It 


234  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

flowers  early,  is  of  erect  habit,  and  exceptionally  free.  The  pale  pink 
flowers  are  very  lasting.  The  Grey  Heath  (E.  cinerea),  a  native  species, 
grows  about  a  foot  high,  and  at  midsummer  has  a  profusion  of  purple 
flowers  in  terminal  racemes.  E.  carnea  (Winter  Heath)  is  a  jewel.  It 
is  neat  in  growth,  wonderfully  free,  and  flowers  in  the  dead  of  the  winter, 
the  colour  being  a  pleasant  shade  of  rose-pink.  The  variety  alba  also  de- 
serves mention,  as  it  flowers  at  the  same  time.  Planters  should  make 
a  note  of  these  fine  Heaths  (see  also  p.  179). 

Escallonias  are  seaside  shrubs,  and  some  of  them  are  very  free. 
They  form  neat  bushes,  and  for  their  foliage  alone  deserve  greater  re- 
cognition. In  very  cold  localities  plant  them  against  a  wall,  as  they 
are  apt  to  suffer  in  very  severe  winters.  Most  of  them  are  evergreen  and 
flourish  in  ordinary  soil,  but  dislike  positions  exposed  to  east  winds. 
E.  macrantha,  the  most  frequently  planted  evergreen  kind,  is  very  hand- 
some and  sturdy,  with  bright  glossy  green  leaves  and  clusters  of  red 
flowers  produced  freely  during  summer.  E.  philippiana  is  not  only  the 
hardiest,  but  one  of  the  most  distinct  and  pleasing  of  Escallonias.  It  is  a 
native  of  Valdivia,  and  was  introduced  to  this  country  nearly  thirty 
years  ago.  It  is  bushy,  of  free  growth,  with  long  arching  shoots,  narrow 
bright  green  deciduous  leaves,  and  its  dainty  pure  white  blossoms  appear 
in  profusion.  E.  langleyensis  is  a  most  attractive  hybrid  raised  by 
crossing  E.  philippiana  with  E.  macrantha,  the  former  being  the  seed 
parent.  Its  small  flowers  are  of  a  rose-pink  shade,  and  as  they  are  borne 
so  liberally  the  plant,  when  in  full  flower,  is  particularly  bright.  E. 
floribunda  bears  white  flowers,  generally  after  the  majority  of  the  kinds 
have  finished  flowering,  for  which  reason  it  is  valuable  for  prolonging 
the  display.  It  grows  freely,  and  is  of  neat  habit. 

Eucryphia  pinnatifolia,  an  uncommon  shrub,  introduced  from  China 
about  1870,  bears  white  flowers  with  bright  yellow  stamens  in  the  centre. 
It  blooms  in  summer,  and  its  handsome,  bright  green,  pinnate  leaves 
are  tinged  with  brownish-orange  and  crimson  in  autumn.  It  requires 
a  rich,  perfectly  drained  soil  and  sheltered  position,  but  at  the  same  time 
one  exposed  to  full  sunlight  is  essential,  because  it  never  blooms  well 
unless  the  wood  is  thoroughly  matured.  It  forms  a  sturdy  bush,  and  is 
rather  slow  in  growth. 

Euonymuses  (Spindle  Trees). — These  include  deciduous  and  ever- 
green shrubs,  or  small  trees  indigenous  to  Europe,  North  America,  &c. 
Every  one  is  of  simple  culture.  None  are  conspicuous  for  showy  flowers, 
but  the  deciduous  kinds,  particularly  the  Spindle  Tree  (E.  europceus)  and 
its  varieties,  are  remarkably  pretty  in  autumn  with  their  richly  coloured 
capsules.  Many  an  English  hedgerow  is  made  bright  with  the  ruddy 
berries.  The  autumn-tinted  foliage,  too,  is  very  bright.  E.  europezus 
is  well  known,  but  some  of  its  varieties  are  less  frequently  seen,  the 
most  important  of  which  are:  Atropurpurea,  which  differs  from  the 
type  in  having  deep  purple  leaves,  shaded  with  orange  in  autumn.  It 
has  showy  capsules  and  prominent  seeds.  The  leaves  of  aucubifolius 
are  bright  green,  spotted  with  yellow.  The  broad-leaved  Spindle  Tree 
(E.  latifolius)  is  a  fine  shrub  for  the  garden,  and  altogether  finer  than 


GOOD   TREES   AND   SHRUBS  235 

E.  europceus  both  for  its  foliage  and  berries.      Of  the  evergreen  kinds, 
the  following  list  comprises  a  few  of  the  best :  E.  japonicus  latifolius 
albo-variegatus  has  pretty  silver  leaves ;  Due  d'Anjou,  green  and  gold ; 
macrophyllus ,  broad  deep  green ;   aureus,  yellow  and  pale  green.     E. 
radicans  is  well  adapted  for  edging  borders,  as  it  stands  the  shears  well, 
and  is  always  of  neat  appearance.     Jt  also  makes  an  excellent  wall 
shrub.    The  variety,  Silver  Gem,  is  much  stronger  in  growth  than  the 
type,  and  well  deserves  greater  popularity.     Its  leaves  are  silvery  white 
and  pale  green ;    a  bright  little  plant  for  winter  bedding.     The  other 
variegated  forms  are  useful  too. 

Eurybia.    See  Olearia. 

Exochorda  grandiflora  (Pearl  Bush),  known  also  as  Spircea  grandi- 
flora,  is  a  Chinese  species,  perfectly  hardy,  of  free  growth,  and  flowers 
abundantly.  In  May  it  carries  long  racemes  of  snow-white  flowers. 
It  is  a  much  branched  shrub,  and  grows  from  six  to  ten  feet  high.  E. 
Alberti  is  pleasing  and  rarer  than  E.  grandiflora.  It  is  of  stiff  habit,  and 
bears  pure  white  blossoms,  but  they  are  not  produced  so  freely  as  in  the 
first  named.  A  Pearl  Bush  in  flower  is  very  beautiful,  like  a  drift  of 
snow ;  will  grow  in  any  good  garden  soil. 

Forsythia  (Golden  Bell). — This  is  a  small  group  of  bright  early  spring- 
flowering  deciduous  shrubs.  They  are  quite  hardy  and  grow  in  ordinary  soil. 
The  most  useful  kind  is  F.  suspensa,  a  shrub  with  long  slender  growths, 
and  in  March  when  its  drooping  bell-shaped,  rich  yellow  flowers  appear, 
it  is  most  effective.  Planters  should  remember  that  the  Forsythia 
flowers  are  borne  in  advance  of  the  leaves,  on  which  account  care  should 
be  exercised  at  planting,  and  a  suitable  background  secured  to  bring  out 
the  full  beauty  of  the  golden  bells.  It  is  amenable  to  various  forms  of 
culture.  For  instance,  it  is  well  adapted  for  training  against  a  wall,  securing 
only  the  principal  growths  and  allowing  the  others  to  fall  at  will ;  and 
for  covering  pergolas,  pillars,  and  similar  arrangements  it  is  of  much  use. 

F.  viridissima  is  of  very  different  growth  to  the  last  named.    It  is  a 
sturdy,  bushy  shrub,  with  bright  yellow  bell-shaped  flowers,  and  useful 
for  planting  in  groups  in  the  front  of  the  border,  but  should  never  be 
placed  where  it  is  likely  to  get  choked  by  taller  and  more  vigorous  things. 
F.  suspensa  is  easily  kept  within  reasonable  bounds  by  a  free  use  of  the 
knife,  as  it  stands  hard  pruning.    Any  cutting  back  should  be  done  in 
spring  just  after  the  flowers  have  faded,  as  the  plants  then  have  the  full 
growing  season  for  the  production  of  fresh  wood.    There  is  a  useful  hybrid 
between  these  two  species  called  intermedia.    Jt  is  very  floriferous,  but 
is  surpassed  in  this  respect  by  its  variety  densiflora. 

Fraxinus  excelsior  (Common  Ash)  is  at  home  more  in  the  park  and 
pleasure-ground  than  in  the  garden,  but  if  space  permits,  room  should 
be  reserved  for  one  or  two  of  its  varieties,  especially  that  with  golden 
bark  so  beautiful  in  winter.  Its  golden  leafage  is  conspicuous  in  summer 
too.  The  silver-leaved  variety  (foliis  argenteis)>  with  tender  green 
leaves  profusely  speckled  with  white,  is  a  good  summer  companion  to 
it,  and  that  distinct  Ash  (F.  e.  heterophylla),  known  also  as  simplicifolia, 
deserves  attention.  It  is  vigorous  and  decidedly  ornamental.  Then 


236  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

there  is  the  pendulous  form  of  Fraxinus  excelsior,  one  of  the  best  of  trees 
of  weeping  habit.  Amongst  Flowering  Ashes,  F.  Ornus  grows  upwards 
of  twenty-five  feet  high,  and  is  well  adapted  for  planting  on  the  lawn. 
It  carries  immense  clusters  of  cream-white  flowers  in  early  summer.  F. 
floribunda  (Ornus  floribunda)  is  perhaps  more  vigorous,  and  certainly  one 
of  the  best  of  Flowering  Ashes.  There  is  an  uncommon  Chinese  species 
named  Mariesii,  which  is  very  beautiful  and  distinct,  but  not  so  free 
in  growth  as  those  already  referred  to.  Its  pure  white  flowers  appear 
rather  late. 

Fremontia  californica.— This  Californian  deciduous  shrub  is  too 
valuable  to  pass  by  notwithstanding  its  rather  delicate  constitution. 
Only  in  specially  favoured  localities  should  it  be  planted  in  the  open 
shrubbery,  as  it  is  too  tender  for  general  use  out  of  doors.  It  will  give 
satisfaction,  trained  against  a  wall  if  planted  in  sandy  loam,  taking  care 
not  to  choose  a  place  exposed  to  east  winds.  It  grows  about  twelve  feet  in 
height,  and  bears  bright  yellow  flowers  two  inches  across  in  early  summer. 

Garrya  elliptica. — Few  evergreen  shrubs  are  more  ornamental  in 
winter  than  a  large  wall  plant  of  this  Californian  Shrub  when  covered 
with  its  elegant  catkins,  varying  in  length  from  six  inches  to  eight  inches, 
and  borne  at  the  tips  of  the  previous  season's  growth.  When  planted 
in  the  ordinary  shrubbery  it  seldom  grows  more  than  six  feet  high,  but 
given  rich  soil  and  copious  supplies  of  water  while  growth  is  in  pro- 
gress, it  develops  more  strongly. 

Gaultheria  procumbens  (Creeping  Winter  Berry).— A  neat  ever- 
green carpet  shrub,  introduced  from  North  America  ;  delights  in  a  cool, 
moist,  peaty  soil,  and  partial  shade.  Towards  midsummer  it  bears 
masses  of  small  white  drooping  flowers,  and  in  autumn  and  winter  its 
small  red  berries  are  very  bright.  Its  autumn-tinted  foliage  is  another 
bright  feature.  G.  Shallon  is  quite  distinct  from  the  last  named,,  and  grows 
about  three  feet  high ;  it  is  a  good  evergreen  for  planting  under  trees, 
and  small  white  flowers  precede  the  purplish  berries. 

Genistas. — These  are  hardy  shrubs  of  simple  culture.  G.  pilosa, 
a  procumbent  British  species,  should  be  grown  in  the  rock-garden  and  in 
the  ordinary  shrubbery.  The  same  remark  applies  to  G.  sagittalis  and 
G.  prostata.  All  have  bright  flowers.  The  Spanish  Broom  (G.  hispanica) 
is  a  treasure  for  dry  banks,  also  as  marginal  lines  to  the  shrubbery.  It 
is  a  dense  growing  prickly  shrub,  and  its  rich  yellow  flowers  appear  in 
July,  a  succession  being  maintained  for  several  weeks.  G.  radiata,  occas- 
ionally met  with  as  Spartium  radiatum,  a  native  of  Southern  Europe,  grows 
about  eighteen  inches  high,  and  bears  yellow  flowers  in  terminal  heads  in 
July.  G.  cetnensis,  popularly  known  as  Mount  Etna  Bloom,  is  an  old  garden 
shrub,  and  in  late  summer,  when  bearing  its  wealth  of  golden-coloured  Pea- 
shaped  flowers,  produces  a  striking  effect.  It  should  be  planted  in  groups, 
as  the  effect  in  a  mass  is  more  telling  than  that  produced  by  the  wretched 
"  dot "  system.  G.  virgata  is  the  best  of  the  taller  growing  species  for 
planting  in  poor,  hungry  soils.  It  is  of  free  growth,  and  its  bright  yellow 
flowers  are  not  only  borne  abundantly,  but  they  remain  attractive  for  a 
considerable  period. 


CATKINS   OF   GARRY  A    ELLIPTIC  A. 

A  hardy  evergreen  shrub  for  winter  effect. 


GOOD   TREES   AND   SHRUBS  237 

Halesia  tetraptera  (The  American  Silver  Bell  Tree),  introduced  to 
this  country  about  the  middle  of  the  seventeenth  century,  is  happy  in 
moist  soil,  such  as  that  found  near  lake  and  stream  side.  Its  pendent 
Snowdrop-like  flowers  appear  in  clusters  in  spring,  at  which  time  it  is 
very  pretty.  It  is  a  valuable  small  deciduous  tree  for  the  garden,  and 
in  autumn  its  winged  fruit  gives  additional  beauty.  H.  hispida,  occa- 
sionally met  with  under  the  name  of  Pterostyrax  hispidum,  indigenous 
to  Japan,  has  white  flowers  which  appear  in  long  racemes  after  those 
of  the  first  named.  H.  corymbosum,  formerly  known  as  Pterostyrax 
corymbosum,  also  from  Japan,  grows  about  twelve  feet  high  and  has 
long  panicles  of  white  flowers  touched  with  pink. 

Hamamelis  (Witch  Hazel). — H.  virginica  may  be  planted  in  damp 
soils.  It  is  of  dense  bushy  growth,  and  in  early  winter  bears  small  yellow 
flowers,  individually  not  showy,  but  a  large  bush  laden  with  blossom  is 
attractive.  The  Japanese  Witch  Hazel  (H.  arborea),  a  charming  hardy 
tree,  dwarf  but  welcome,  because  it  blooms  in  winter ;  the  flowers  are 
made  up  of  long,  narrow,  wavy,  golden  yellow  petals,  with  a  reddish- 
coloured  calyx.  We  enjoy  a  tree  in  full  bloom  in  January  and  February, 
when  the  brown  leafless  shoots  are  covered  with  golden  blossom.  A 
rather  rare  species  from  Central  China,  named  mollis.  makes  a  valuable 
addition  to  early-flowering  shrubs.  It  differs  from  the  last  named  in 
being  of  slower  growth,  possessing  deeper  coloured  flowers  and  larger 
leaves  ;  it  is  very  free.  The  Witch  Hazels  are  deciduous  and  blossom 
while  the  branches  are  leafless.  Plant  in  front  of  evergreens,  as  this 
enhances  the  beauty  of  the  flowers.  Soil  consisting  of  loam  and  leaf- 
mould,  with  the  addition  of  a  few  lumps  of  broken  peat,  suits  them 
admirably;  but  special  attention  must  be  paid  to  drainage,  because  if 
water  is  allowred  to  lodge  about  the  roots  the  trees  soon  get  unhealthy. 

Hedysarum  multijugum  is  a  valuable  shrub  of  the  Pea  family. 
It  flowers  long  after  the  majority  of  shrubs  and  trees,  and  requires  a 
sandy  soil,  good  drainage,  and  sunny  position.  When  in  happy  circum- 
stances it  grows  four  feet  or  five  feet  high,  and  has  purplish-coloured 
flowers  in  long  racemes,  usually  from  midsummer  to  the  middle  of 
September,  and  in  very  fine  seasons  the  display  is  continued  to  the 
early  part  of  October. 

Helianthemums  (Sun  Roses). — Dwarf-growing  evergreen  plants, 
thoroughly  hardy  and  very  useful  for  planting  on  dry  sunny  banks  or  as 
edgings  to  low-growing  shrubs.  They  flourish  best  in  sandy  soil,  and 
should  never  be  planted  in  cold  sunless  positions.  Good  drainage  is  of 
immense  importance,  as  Sun  Roses  are  never  a  success  in  cold  water- 
logged soil.  H.  vulgare  and  its  single  and  double-flowered  forms  are 
very  free  and  adapted  for  the  rock-garden.  H.  formosum,  from  Por- 
tugal, has  bright  yellow  flowers  blotched  with  reddish-purple.  It  grows 
about  three  feet  high  and  is  very  free. 

Hibiscus. — Few  thoroughly  hardy-flowering  shrubs  are  more  beauti- 
ful in  autumn  than  the  form  of  Hibiscus,  or  Shrubbery  Althaeas  as  they 
are  sometimes  called.  No  soil  seems  too  bad  for  them,  and  they  blossom 
profusely  in  partial  shade  as  well  as  in  exposed  situations.  H.  syriacus 


238  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

(Syrian  Mallow)  forms  a  round-headed  bush  six  feet  to  eight  feet  in 
height,  and  at  the  end  of  summer  bears  masses  of  purplish  flowers  blotched 
with  crimson.  The  under-mentioned  are  a  few  of  the  best  varieties  : 
Painted  Lady  is  very  conspicuous;  flowers  large,  delicate  rose,  with 
large  red  blotches  at  the  base  of  each  petal.  Totus  albus  is  a  remarkably 
pretty  and  distinct  pure  white  free-flowering  variety ;  should  be  far 
more  popular.  The  flowers  are  smaller  than  those  of  the  type.  Codestis 
is  a  dainty  variety,  with  medium-sized,  bright  blue  flowers  blotched  with 
purple.  The  flowers  of  puniceus  plenus  are  semi-double,  rosy-purple 
with  a  deep  purple  base,  and  those  of  ccerulea  plena,  also  double  or  semi- 
double,  are  mauve  with  a  purple  base. 

Hippophae  rhamnoides  (Sea  Buckthorn}  is  one  of  the  finest  of  berry- 
bearing  shrubs  for  winter  effect.  It  is  very  cheap  and  perfectly  hardy. 
Although  usually  considered  a  seaside  shrub  only  it  can  be  recommended 
for  inland  planting,  and  if  grown  in  masses  near  the  edge  of  water  the 
effect  in  winter,  when  the  long  shoots  are  smothered  with  round  brilliant 
orange-shaded  fruits,  is  very  striking.  It  is  quite  a  success  in  sandy  soil, 
and  its  berries  remain  bright  for  a  long  time.  It  is  also  an  attractive 
standard  tree,  and  its  silvery-grey  leaves  are  quite  distinct.  It  must  not 
be  forgotten  that  one  male  plant  should  be  planted  to  every  group  of  six 
female  ones,  otherwise  no  fruit  will  be  produced.  Complaints  are  frequent 
of  the  Sea  Buckthorn  not  fruiting,  and  this  failure  may  generally  be 
attributed  to  the  absence  of  the  male  form. 

Holboellia  latifolia,  formerly  known  as  Stauntonia  latifolia,  is  a 
vigorous  Himalayan  evergreen  climber,  growing  upwards  of  a  dozen 
feet  in  height,  and  bears  clusters  of  delightfully  fragrant  purplish  flowers. 
Protection  from  biting  winds  is  necessary,  and  rough  turfy  loam  forms  a 
good  soil  for  planting  it  in.  In  spring  and  early  summer  it  is  much  bene- 
fited by  copious  supplies  of  water,  for  which  reason  ample  drainage 
should  be  provided. 

Hydrangeas  form  a  group  of  hardy  shrubs  of  considerable  import- 
ance, not  only  in  the  outdoor  garden  but  under  glass.  One  of  the  most 
useful  is  H.  Hortensia,  known  also  as  H.  japonica,  and  is  the  most  fre- 
quently planted  kind;  it  flourishes  amazingly  near  the  sea  line,  and 
it  is  quite  hardy  in  a  sheltered  nook  inland.  We  need  hardly  describe 
a  shrub  so  leafy  and  showy  when  in  flower.  Of  the  many  garden  forms 
of  this  Chinese  shrub  the  following  are  particularly  meritorious  : 
Thomas  Hogg  produces  great  heads  of  white  flowers,  and  Lindleyi, 
better  known  perhaps  as  japonica  roseo-alba,  also  deserves  mention, 
and  stellata,  with  its  bright  pink  flowers  touched  with  rose,  is  too  valuable 
to  pass  by  unnoticed.  Iron  in  the  soil  turns  the  flowers  to  that  deep, 
beautiful  blue,  so  conspicuous  in  the  autumn  landscape,  and  a  pre- 
paration containing  iron  is  now  sold  for  the  purpose  and  can  be  recom- 
mended. H.  paniculata  grandiflora  is  unquestionably  the  best  of  the 
autumn  blooming  kinds,  and  worthy  of  a  place  in  the  small  garden.  It 
is  a  noble  shrub  for  massing,  and  if  planted  in  deep,  fertile  soil  and  the 
young  shoots  cut  back  close  to  the  old  wood  before  growth  commences 
in  spring  a  superb  display  may  be  expected  in  autumn.  The  thin  sickly 


GOOD   TREES  AND   SHRUBS  239 

shoots  should  be  removed  altogether,  and  if  a  top  dressing  of  manure 
can  be  given  in  summer  additional  strength  will  be  given  to  the  plants. 
The  flowers  are  white  and  borne  in  dense  panicles  about  a  foot  long  afid 
remain  attractive  for  about  two  months,  eventually  dying  off  a  reddish- 
brown  colour.  H.  radiata  (H.  nivea)  is  an  ornamental-leaved  American 
species,  with  bright  green  leaves,  the  under  sides  being  covered  with 
white  torn  en  turn.  It  is  grown  more  for  its  attractive  leaves  than  for  its 
flowers.  Good  loamy  soil  and  thorough  drainage  are  essential  for  these 
shrubs. 

Hypericum  (St.  John's  Wort).— Some  of  these  are  old  garden 
favourites,  well  adapted  for  a  variety  of  purposes,  and  succeed  in  ordi- 
nary soil.  Those  here  mentioned  comprise  a  few  (by  no  means  all) 
of  the  best  for  general  planting.  H.  hookerianum,  known  also  as  H. 
oblongifolium,  is  the  most  attractive  of  the  vigorous  growing  evergreen 
species,  and  towards  the  close  of  summer  bears  large,  substantial,  beauti- 
fully-shaped, deep  yellow  blossoms  about  the  size  of  a  crown  piece.  It 
is  a  Himalayan  species  of  erect  habit  and  excellent  for  grouping.  H. 
patulum  is  rather  uncommon  and  very  beautiful.  It  produces  slender 
arching  shoots,  with  deep  green  leaves  and  medium-sized  flowers.  H. 
calycinum  (Rose  of  Sharon)  is  a  spreading  half-evergreen  shrub,  and 
succeeds  under  the  shade  and  drip  of  trees,  for  which  purpose  we  advise 
it  to  be  planted.  It  is  a  splendid  carpet  plant  and  delights  in  a  cool  soil. 
H.  moserianum,  a  cross  between  H.  calycinum  and  H.  patulum,  bears 
large,  rich,  yellow  flowers  of  great  substance.  It  is  bushy,  dwarf,  very 
free-flowering,  and  the  best  of  the  later  additions  to  the  St.  John's  Worts. 
H.  andros&mum,  H.  uralum,  and  H.  hircinum  are  good  kinds  too. 

Idesia  polycarpa. — A  remarkably  handsome  Japanese  deciduous 
tree,  very  rare  and  quite  hardy,  but  liable  to  get  injured  from  cold  winds 
in  spring,  unless  a  sheltered  place  can  be  found  for  it.  It  is  of  sturdy 
growth  in  deep  rich  naturally  drained  soil,  and  its  vigorous  branches, 
with  large,  bright  green,  heart-shaped  leaves,  and  crimson  petioles,  are 
quite  distinct  from  those  of  any  other  hardy  tree.  Its  small  yellowish 
green  flowers  are  in  pendulous  racemes,  and  very  fragrant. 

Ilex  Aquifolium  (The  Common  Prickly-leaved  Holly)  and  its  numer- 
ous varieties  are  in  the  front  rank  of  evergreen  shrubs  and  small  trees. 
As  a  hedge  plant  the  Holly  is  unrivalled,  and  is  used  extensively  in  all 
parts  of  the  country,  as  it  succeeds  in  various  kinds  of  soil.  The  winter 
effect  of  a  large  tree  of  the  Common  Holly  standing  alone  in  the  pleasure- 
ground  is  very  beautiful,  either  with  or  without  its  rich  scarlet  berries. 
In  addition  to  the  green-leaved  forms,  some  have  silver  and  golden- 
coloured  leaves,  and  a  few  are  of  decidedly  weeping  habit,  all  of  which 
may  be  advantageously  used  even  in  small  gardens.  It  is  a  good  plan 
to  frequently  transplant  Hollies  during  the  first  few  years  of  their  growth 
to  encourage  the  production  of  fibrous  roots.  Early  autumn  and  late 
spring  are  the  best  times  for  lifting  Hollies.  Propagation  may  be  effected 
by  seed,  which  should  be  mixed  with  sand  immediately  it  is  gathered  and 
laid  by  in  a  heap  until  spring,  the  whole  being  turned  over  three  or  four 
times  in  the  interval.  Sow  in  drills,  or  in  well-drained  beds,  just  covering 


24o  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

the  seed  with  very  fine  soil.  Cuttings  of  well-ripened  shoots  may  be  taken 
off  in  late  summer,  and  planted  in  sandy  soil  in  a  cold  frame.  Water  with 
a  fine  rose  water-pot  occasionally,  and  shade  in  bright  weather.  Budding 
is  carried  out  in  summer,  and  grafting  under  glass  in  spring,  but  it  should 
not  be  forgotten  that  plants  on  their  own  roots  are  the  most  satisfactory. 
The  under-mentioned  list  comprises  some  of  the  most  attractive  of  green- 
leaved  Hollies  :  Wilsoni  is  vigorous,  with  large,  glossy  green  leaves, 
and  an  abundance  of  berries.  Fructu-luteo  differs  from  the  type  in  having 
yellow  berries  instead  of  red.  Shepherdi  is  splendid  for  town  gardens  and 
avenues  ;  its  leaves  are  large,  and  the  shrub  berries  freely.  Camellice- 
folia  is  a  noble  Holly,  with  large  shining  green  leaves.  Ovata  is  a  medium- 
sized  variety,  with  beautiful  rich  green  leaves.  Handsworthensis  and 
Mundyi  are  very  fine.  Of  variegated  Hollies,  Watereriana  (Waterer's 
Dwarf  Golden  Holly)  is  a  charming  variety,  neat  in  growth,  with  smooth 
golden-coloured  leaves  ;  this  is  a  grand  variety  for  planting  on  the 
fringe  of  the  lawn.  Another  excellent  golden-leaved  variety  is  named 
aurea  regina,  popularly  called  Golden  Queen ;  it  is  more  vigorous 
than  the  last  named,  and  one  of  the  showiest  of  its  class.  Golden 
King  is  another  free-growing  variety,  with  highly  coloured  leaves. 
Flavescens  is  distinct  and  very  beautiful ;  its  leaves  are  heavily  marked 
with  yellow.  Argentea  regina  (Silver  Queen)  is  a  choice  Holly,  and  a  silver 
counterpart  of  Golden  Queen.  Argentea  medio-picta  (Silver  Milkmaid) 
should  be  represented,  as  it  is  very  ornamental,  with  cream-white 
leaves,  margined  with  green.  Handsworth  Silver  is  a  splendid  variety. 
Weeping  Hollies  should  include  the  green-leaved  variety  of  the  type; 
very  handsome,  and  well  adapted  for  planting  on  the  outskirts  of  the 
lawn.  The  golden-leaved  variety  (aurea)  is  remarkably  pretty,  and 
quite  distinct  from  all  other  trees  of  weeping  habit.  There  is  also  a  good 
silver-leaved  weeping  variety  named  argentea. 

Indigofera  gerardiana. — A  pretty  pea-shaped  flower ;  is  sufficiently 
hardy  to  plant  in  the  garden,  although  the  greatest  flower  display  is 
produced  when  planted  in  sandy  soil  at  the  foot  of  a  sheltered  wall.  Its 
pink  flowers  are  in  racemes  two  inches  to  three  inches  long,  and  quite 
pretty  in  summer.  Except  in  very  warm  counties,  a  south  wall  must  be 
chosen  for  the  Indigofera. 

Itea  virginica. — A  thoroughly  hardy  North- American  shrub,  four 
feet  or  five  feet  high,  and  very  attractive  in  midsummer  when  carrying  its 
racemes  of  white  flowers.  It  prefers  a  damp  soil  and  partial  shade.  Not 
only  are  the  flowers  produced  in  profusion,  but  they  keep  fresh  for  a  con- 
siderable time,  and  as  they  appear  when  few  hardy  shrubs  are  in  bloom 
it  should  be  carefully  noted. 

Jamesia  americana. — A  strangely  neglected,  dense  growing  deci- 
duous shrub  from  the  Rocky  Mountains,  flowers  in  early  summer,  and 
needs  no  protection  even  in  very  severe  winters.  Rather  slow  in  growth, 
it  seldom  develops  more  than  four  feet  or  five  feet  high,  and  is  quite 
distinct,  with  rather  rough,  oval,  greyish  leaves,  its  terminal  clusters  of 
pure  white  flowers  being  very  pretty.  Jt  succeeds  well  in  dry  soil,  but 
prefers  a  moist  rich  one  and  a  shady  position. 


THE    SEA    BUCKTHORN   AS   A    TREE. 


GOOD   TREES   AND   SHRUBS  241 

Kalmias. — Here  we  have  a  small  group  of  ornamental  evergreen, 
free-flowering  American  shrubs,,  delighting  in  soil  favourable  to  the 
Rhododendron.  Chalk  or  lime  in  the  soil,  or  water  supplied  to  them, 
is  injurious.  They  are  neat  in  growth,  and  suitable  for  massing ;  and 
by  planting  bulbs  like  lilies  between  them  a  rich  display  is  obtained  with 
little  trouble  in  autumn  as  well  as  in  spring.  They  are  usually  grown 
as  bushes,  but  K.  latifolia,  the  broad-leaved  Mountain  Laurel,  makes 
a  handsome  standard — a  form  by  no  means  common  in  gardens.  Its 
great  terminal  clusters  of  soft  rose-coloured,  wax-like  flowers  are  very 
pretty  and  lasting.  The  Swamp  Laurel  (K.  glaucd)  grows  about  two 
feet,  is  of  rather  loose  growth,  and  bears  a  wealth  of  lilac-purple  clusters. 
K.  angustifolia,  also  known  as  the  Sheep  Laurel,  is  quite  distinct  from 
the  foregoing.  The  flowers  are  deep  red,  smaller  than  those  of  the 
K.  latifolia }  and  borne  with  greater  freedom.  There  are  several  deco- 
rative varieties  of  K.  angustifolia,  and  all  may  be  identified  by  the  varietal 
names — i.e.  rubra,  bright  red  flowers ;  rosea,  rich  rose-colour ;  and 
ovata,  with  ovate  leaves.  Kalmias  are  favourite  shrubs  for  forcing. 
Hard  forcing  is  not  necessary,  as  the  flowers  respond  to  gentle  heat  if 
the  atmosphere  is  kept  moist.  As  the  buds  begin  to  open  remove  the 
plants  to  a  cooler  structure  so  as  to  prolong  the  season  of  flower. 

Kerria  japonica  (Jews'  Mallow),  occasionally  met  with  under  the 
name  of  Corchorus  japonicus,  has  yellow  flowers,  and  the  silver-leaved 
form  (foliis  variegatis),  although  not  quite  so  vigorous,  is  very  orna- 
mental. The  double  Jews'  Mallow  (K.  j.flore  pleno)  is  the  commonest 
kind,  and  succeeds  admirably  in  sandy  soil.  It  is  a  good  shrub  for 
planting  against  a  wall  and  for  grouping  in  the  shrubbery.  The  bright 
yellow  double  flowers  are  borne  abundantly.  There  is  another  very  rare 
variety,  named  major)  with  remarkably  fine  double  yellow  flowers.  It 
flowers  freely  and  continuously. 

Laburnums. — Planted  with  discretion  the  Laburnums  produce 
delightful  pictures  in  the  garden.  In  spring  and  early  summer,  when 
the  long  drooping  racemes  of  L.  vulgare,  the  common  kind,  are  at  their 
best,  few  small  trees  are  more  graceful.  In  addition  to  the  perfect 
hardihood  and  accommodating  nature  of  the  Laburnums,  there  is  scarcely 
a  soil  or  position  in  which  they  will  not  grow  satisfactorily.  L.  alpinum, 
known  also  as  Cytisus  alpinus  (the  Scotch  Laburnum),  is  a  fine  tree  for 
decorative  planting.  It  flowers  late,  and  is  of  great  value  for  this  reason  ; 
it  grows  twenty  feet  high.  The  variety  autumnalis  flowers,  as  its  name 
indicates,  in  the  autumn,  and  Parksii  is  another  excellent  form,  with 
slender  racemes  of  flowers  often  a  foot  long.  L.  Adami  (Cytisus  Adami) 
is  remarkable  because  it  bears  dull  purple  and  yellow  flowers  on  the  same 
tree.  It  is  a  graft  hybrid  between  L.  vulgare  and  Cytisus  purpureus,  and 
we  have  seen  this  planted  in  the  hedgerows.  Of  the  varieties  belonging 
to  L.  vulgare  the  undermentioned  are  the  most  distinct : — Carlieri  has 
narrow  racemes  of  flowers  generally  a  fortnight  after  those  of  the  type ; 
querdfolium  has  deeply-cut  leaves  ;  and  foliis  aureis  bright  yellow 
foliage  •  while  pendulum  is  of  good  weeping  habit. 

Laurus  nobilis  (Sweet  Bay]  should  be  planted  beyond  the  influence 

Q 


242  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

of  cold  winds,  and  the  soil  most  favourable  to  good  growth  is  one  com- 
posed of  turfy  loam,  peat,  and  good  leaf-soil  in  equal  proportions.  As 
it  is  considerably  benefited  by  copious  supplies  of  water  in  spring  just 
as  fresh  growth  appears,  ample  drainage  should  be  provided  to  carry  off 
superfluous  water.  In  localities  too  cold  for  planting  in  the  open  air 
it  is  worth  growing  in  tubs  for  the  cool-house. 

Laurustinus.     See  Viburnum  Tinus. 

Ledums. — These  are  compact  evergreen  shrubs,  thoroughly  hardy, 
distinct,  and  ornamental.  They  flourish  in  ordinary  soil,  but  prefer  one 
composed  largely  of  peat.  L.  latifolium  (Labrador  Tree)  is  vigorous  and 
free  in  all  ways,  with  its  great  clusters  of  white  pink-tinted  flowers. 
The  Marsh  Ledum  (L.  palustre),  a  European  species,  grows  about  three 
feet  high  and  forms  a  dense  bush  with  small  green  aromatic  leaves 
covered  with  a  thick  tomentum  on  the  under  sides,  and  in  early  summer 
its  clusters  of  small  pink  flowers  are  welcome. 

Leiophyllum  buxifolium  is  a  dainty  little  evergreen  shrub  intro- 
duced from  the  sandy  plains  of  New  Jersey  upwards  of  150  years  ago. 
It  is  little  known,  exceedingly  beautiful  in  flower,  and  well  adapted  for 
the  rock-garden.  It  should  always  be  planted  in  a  peaty  soil.  The 
Sand  Myrtle,  as  it  is  sometimes  called,  does  not  exceed  one  foot  in  height — 
in  fact,  it  is  not  often  more  than  six  inches  high  ;  is  of  dense  compact 
habit,  with  tiny  deep  green  leaves,  and  in  early  summer  terminal  clusters 
of  small  white  flowers  and  rose-pink  buds. 

Lespedeza  bicolor,  also  known  as  Desmodium  penduliflorum,  an 
uncommon  deciduous  shrub  of  graceful  habit,  is  hardier  than  is  generally 
supposed.  It  is  indigenous  to  China  and  Japan,  and  bears  an  abundance 
of  reddish-purple  flowers  in  long  slender  racemes.  It  grows  upwards  of 
six  feet  high,  and  succeeds  best  in  peat,  loam,  and  leaf-mould,  and  requires 
good  drainage.  In  very  cold  localities  it  should  be  planted  against  a  wall. 

Leycesteria  formosa,  a  fairly  well-known  Himalayan  deciduous 
shrub,  has  pendulous  racemes  of  white  flowers  touched  with  purple,  and 
conspicuous  purple  bracts  hang  from  the  axils  of  the  leaves  in  autumn. 
The  flowers  are  followed  by  showy  berries.  It  flourishes  in  ordinary 
soil,  and  is  quite  a  success  under  the  shade  of  trees.  It  may  be  planted 
as  a  cover  for  game. 

LigUStrum  (Privet). — No  soil  seems  too  poor  or  position  too  ex- 
posed for  the  ordinary  forms  of  Ligustrum  or  Privet.  As  a  hedge-plant 
L.  ovalifolium  (Oval-leaved  Privet)  is  planted  by  the  million  ;  but  care 
is  necessary,  as  it  has  often  been  injudiciously  used.  Although  the 
golden-leaved  form,  L.  o.  foliis  aureis,  sometimes  met  with  as  calif orni- 
cum,  is  not  so  free  in  growth  as  the  type,  it  is  very  effective  when 
used  with  discretion.  It  dislikes  full  sunlight  and  succeeds  admirably 
in  towns.  L.  sinense,  a  much  branched  half-evergreen  shrub  from 
China,  is  not  only  welcome  for  its  abundance  of  cream-white  flowers, 
but  also  for  its  black  berries,  which  as  a  rule  hang  upon  the  bushes  for 
several  months.  L.  lucidum,  introduced  from  China  more  than  a  hundred 
years  ago,  has  charming  flowers.  It  is  erect  and  grows  about  twelve  feet 
high,  and  in  autumn  bears  loose  panicles  of  white  flowers  in  profusion. 


GOOD   TREES   AND   SHRUBS  243 

The  variety  with  variegated  leaves,  named  tricolor)  is  very  showy,  but  less 
vigorous  than  the  type.  L.  Quihoui,  also  from  China,  a  splendid  shrub 
for  dry  soils,  is  of  rather  straggling  habit,  and  looks  best  planted  in  groups. 
As  it  flowers  so  late  in  the  season  it  should  be  planted  largely  in  public 
parks  and  open  spaces.  Its  flowering  period  is  from  September  to  the 
middle  of  October,  but  in  mild  seasons  blooms  on  until  early  November. 
Its  flowers  are  cream-white,  sweet  scented,  and  borne  in  rather  slender 
panicles.  L.  japonicum  is  of  sturdy  habit,  six  feet  or  so  high,  with  glossy 
green  leaves  and  large  panicles  of  white  flowers  about  the  middle  of  July. 

Liquidambar  Styraciflua.— The  value  of  this  rather  slow-growing 
North  American  Sweet  Gum-tree  is  not  in  its  flowers,  for  they  are  far 
from  showy,  but  in  its  autumn  effect  in  the  landscape,  as  its  smooth  leaves 
at  that  season  of  the  year  assume  mahogany-brown,  crimson,  and  allied 
colours.  It  is  a  splendid  tree  for  small  avenues,  succeeding  best  in  rather 
moist  deep  soil,  and  when  the  position  is  fully  exposed  to  the  sun  the 
autumn-tinted  foliage  is  very  handsome. 

Liriodendron  Tulipifera  (Tulip  Tree)  is  a  vigorous  North  American 
Tree,  handsome  for  its  broad  distinct  leaves,  and  large  Tulip-like  sweet- 
scented  yellow  flowers  in  August.  In  growth  it  is  erect,  and  its  grey 
bark  is  streaked  with  white.  The  leaves  change  in  autumn  to  yellow. 
There  are  several  varieties,  but  the  one  with  golden  leaves,  named  aurea, 
is  the  most  effective.  It  is  very  showy,  grows  well,  and  its  bold  leaves 
are  heavily  blotched  with  yellow.  A  new  form  has  been  introduced 
from  China  under  the  name  of  chinensis. 

Lpniceras  (Honeysuckles). — The  Honeysuckle  is  too  familiar  to  need 
description.  Its  pretty  slender  growths  and  fragrant  flowers  are  the  glory 
of  many  an  English  hedgerow.  There  are  climbers  and  bush  kinds,  the 
latter  being  useful  for  the  border  and  the  climbers  for  draping  walls,  tree 
stumps,  pergolas,  and  similar  erections.  Of  the  border  kinds,  Z.  Tor- 
mentella,  a  fairly  well-known  kind,  is  valuable  principally  for  its  late 
flowering,  its  small  pink  flowers  appearing  in  pairs  generally  in  July. 
L.  fragrantissima  is  one  of  the  few  hardy  shrubs  to  flower  in  winter  out 
of  doors.  As  a  wall  shrub  it  is  very  satisfactory,  as  it  is  free  in  flower 
and  growth  too,  and  although  its  white  flowers  are  small  they  are  de- 
liciously  scented.  L.  Standishi  is  another  winter-flowering  Honeysuckle, 
with  delightfully  fragrant  flowers.  Where  sweet-scented  winter-flower- 
ing shrubs  are  required  planters  will  do  well  to  remember  these  two 
Honeysuckles.  L.  Alberti,  a  dwarf  kind,  is  very  rare,  and  from  the 
middle  of  June  to  the  middle  of  July  displays  its  dainty  rose-coloured 
flowers.  L.  involucrata,  known  also  as  L.  Ledebourii,  bears  yellowish 
red  flowers  freely  in  June.  L.  tatarica  forms  a  dense  bush,  six  feet  or 
so  high,  and  in  May  and  June  is  very  pretty  with  its  wealth  of  rose- 
coloured  flowers.  Honeysuckles  thrive  in  any  good  garden  soil. 

Loropetalum  chinense. — This  is  a  Witch  Hazel-like  shrub,  very 
rare,  pretty,  early  flowering,  and  of  dwarf  growth,  with  cream-white 
flowers  composed  of  long  slender  petals.  Ordinary  well-drained  soil  suits 
it,  and  select  a  sunny  position  to  enable  it  to  thoroughly  mature  its  wood. 

Magnolias. — A  large  and  beautiful  family  of  shrubs  and  trees, 


244  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

valued  for  their  bold  and  variously  coloured  fragrant  blossoms.  Al- 
though perfectly  hardy,  some  of  them,  i.e.  M.  conspicua  and  M.  stellata, 
flower  early,  for  which  reason  protection  from  cold  winds  and  sharp  frosts 
is  essential.  They  do  not  require  special  soil  as  they  make  good  growth 
in  the  ordinary  garden,  provided  ample  drainage  is  secured,  and  the  points 
already  referred  to  are  not  forgotten.  Magnolias  transplant  best  in 
spring,  as  the  roots  are  sparsely  furnished  with  fibres.  Give  a  good  water- 
ing immediately  after  planting.  M.  glauca  blossoms  in  summer.  It  is 
of  bushy  habit,  eight  feet  to  twelve  feet  high,  with  half -evergreen  leaves, 
silvery  on  the  under  sides,  and  with  medium-sized  flowers.  It  prefers 
a  moist  soil.  M.  Campbelli,  from  the  Himalayas,  is  unfortunately  not 
sufficiently  hardy  for  all  gardens,  besides  which  it  does  not  flower  when 
young.  For  planting  in  the  warmer  parts  of  the  country  it  can  be  re- 
commended, as  its  large  rosy-crimson  flowers  are  very  handsome.  M. 
macrophylla  is  a  vigorous  tree,  with  large  leaves,  often  three  feet  long, 
and  immense  cream  purple-centred  flowers.  It  comes  from  the  United 
States,  and  grows  upwards  of  thirty  feet  high.  M.  conspicua  (Yulan) 
is  a  familiar  Chinese  spring-flowering  tree  of  branching  habit.  A  tree 
a  dozen  feet  or  so  in  height  is  very  pretty  in  March  when  laden  with  bold 
snow-white  fragrant  flowers.  This  is  the  kind  of  tree  for  a  lawn.  Of 
the  Yulan  there  are  several  beautiful  varieties,  but  of  these  only  two  need 
be  mentioned  here.  Perhaps  the  finer  of  the  two  is  Soulangeana,  the 
flowers  of  which  are  heavily  tipped  and  shaded  with  purple,  the  inside 
being  flushed  with  pale  pink.  Its  flowers  are  very  lasting,  and  appear 
after  those  of  the  type.  Lennei,  with  its  reddish-purple  flowers,  is  quite 
distinct  and  very  free.  M.  stellata,  occasionally  labelled  M.  halleana, 
is  a  dainty  Japanese  shrub,  bushy  and  free.  Its  sweet-scented,  star- 
shaped  flowers,  with  long  white  petals,  are  produced  before  those  of  any 
other  Magnolia,  and  remain  in  good  condition  for  several  weeks.  Quite 
small  plants  will  bloom.  The  pink-flowered  form  (rosea)  is  similar  to 
the  species,  except  that  the  flowers  are  rose.  M .  Watsoni  is  an  uncommon 
species,  with  large,  sweet-scented,  ivory-white  flowers,  and  a  cluster  of 
red  filaments.  M.  parviflora  is  another  rare  and  dwarf  species  also  with 
white  flowers.  M .  gmndiflora  is  the  only  evergreen  kind  that  will  be 
referred  to.  It  is  a  noble-looking  tree,  with  large,  polished  green  leaves, 
and  in  summer,  bold,  deliciously  scented,  cream-white  flowers.  Although 
usually  treated  as  a  wall  shrub,  it  is  a  success  planted  as  an  isolated 
specimen  on  the  lawn  provided  shelter  from  east  winds  is  given. 

Micromelis  Folgneri  pendula  is  a  new  tree  from  China  closely 
related  to  Pyrus.  It  has  elegant,  drooping  branches,  clothed  with  silvery 
leaves,  and  bears  good-sized  heads  of  white  flowers  freely  in  May.  Culti- 
vation is  similar  to  that  required  by  the  ornamental  Crab  Apples. 

Mistletoe.    See  p.  261. 

Negundo.     See  Acer. 

Nuttallia  cerasiformis  (Osoberry).— Grows  well  in  hungry  soils. 
It  is  a  native  of  California,  deciduous,  bushy,  and  very  free-flowering, 
with  small  white  flowers  produced  in  pendulous  racemes  in  February 
and  early  March. 


GOOD   TREES   AND   SHRUBS  245 

Nyssa  sylvatica. — For  the  garden  this  North  American  tree  should 
not  be  overlooked.  It  succeeds  best  in  moist  soil  and  a  sunny  position, 
when  the  wood  becomes  sturdy  and  well-ripened.  It  is  not  conspicuous 
for  showy  flowers,  its  decorative  value  resting  almost  entirely  upon  the 
glorious  autumn  tints  of  the  decaying  foliage. 

Olearias. — The  Olearias  form  a  small  and  pleasing  group  of  New 
Zealand  evergreen  shrubs.  With  the  exception  of  the  Daisy  Bush  (0. 
Haastii),  all  require  some  slight  protection  during  severe  winters,  that 
afforded  by  a  wall  being  usually  quite  sufficient.  It  is  a  stiff  bushy  shrub, 
four  feet  or  five  feet  high,  with  small  thick  leaves,  and  in  midsummer 
a  profusion  of  white  fragrant  flowers.  It  is  a  good  shrub  for  massing. 
0.  gunniana,  a  slender  species,  is  particularly  pretty  when  bearing  its 
small  pure  white  blossoms.  It  is  very  free  flowering,  and  succeeds  better 
against  a  wall  than  in  the  shrubbery,  unless  a  favoured  spot  is  reserved 
for  it. 

Ozothamnus  rosmarinifolius  is  a  distinct  and  beautiful  Australian 
evergreen  shrub,  with  long  slender  growths,  and  small  narrow  leaves. 
Its  small  flowers  are  white,  produced  freely,  and  remain  attractive  for 
several  wreeks  during  summer.  It  should  be  planted  in  rich  soil  and  a 
sunny  spot,  and  is  usually  regarded  as  a  shrub  suitable  only  for  the  mild 
counties  of  Devonshire  and  Cornwall.  We  have,  however,  recently  seen 
it  growing  and  flowering  well  in  heavy  clay  soil  in  Essex,  and  no  doubt 
it  is  much  hardier  than  is  generally  supposed. 

Parrotia  persica  (Iron  Tree).— A  rare  deciduous  tree  from  Persia, 
succeeding  best  in  a  rather  dry  soil  on  a  slightly  raised  mound  facing 
south.  It  is  a  low-growing,  much  branched  tree,  with  green  Witch 
Hazel-like  leaves  turning  to  brilliant  shades  of  crimson,  purple,  and 
bronze-yellow  in  autumn.  Individually  the  flowers  of  the  Iron  Tree  are 
small,  with  crimson-tipped  stamens,  produced  abundantly  in  February 
and  March  while  the  branches  are  leafless. 

Paulownia  imperialis  is  a  noble  tree,  and  under  certain  treatment 
proves  a  valuable  addition  to  the  sub-tropical  garden.  Grown  naturally 
in  the  pleasure-ground,  where  growth  is  unrestricted,  it  makes  an  im- 
posing picture,  its  large  leaves  being  quite  distinct.  Its  sweet-scented, 
violet-coloured  flowers  rarely  come  to  perfection  in  these  Isles,  as  they 
appear  early  and  nearly  always  suffer  from  late  frosts.  It  often  grows 
forty  feet  high,  and  succeeds  best  in  moist  soil.  When  grown  in  the  sub- 
tropical garden  it  should  be  kept  to  a  single  stem,  which  should  be  cut 
down  close  to  the  base  in  autumn,  and  in  spring  several  growths  will 
break  from  the  old  stool.  Allow  the  best  to  remain  and  remove  the 
others.  Leaves  produced  on  shoots  treated  thus  are  considerably  larger 
than  those  on  trees  left  to  grow  naturally. 

Pavia.    See  ^Esculus. 

Pernettyas,  known  also  as  Prickly  Heaths,  are  the  showiest  and 
most  useful  of  small  berry-bearing  evergreen  shrubs,  and  it  seems  strange 
that  a  group  of  plants  so  attractive,  hardy,  and  easily  grown  should  be 
so  neglected  in  gardens.  They  may  be  grouped  on  the  turf,  and  grown 
in  pots  for  the  greenhouse.  Peaty,  well-drained  soil  suits  them  best, 


246  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

with  full  exposure  to  the  sun,  and  an  abundance  of  water  in  spring  and 
early  summer.  The  varieties  here  mentioned  are  all  of  bushy  habit, 
and  the  berries  are  of  various  sizes  and  colours— alba,  blush-white  ;  atro- 
coccinea,  dark  scarlet ;  carnea  lilacina,  pale  pinkish-lilac  ;  rosea  lilacina, 
rose-lilac ;  rosea  major,  bright  rose ;  rosea  purpurea,  rose  and  purple ; 
atrosanguinea,  rich  crimson ;  carnea,  flesh-coloured ;  purpurea,  bright 
purple  ;  atro-lilacina,  dark  lilac  ;  coccinea,  rich  scarlet. 

Philadelphuses  (Mock  Oranges)  are  white-flowered  shrubs  of  the 
simplest  culture.  The  type,  P.  coronarius,  was  at  one  time  planted  ex- 
tensively, but  of  late  years  considerable  attention  has  been  paid  to  the 
family  by  the  hybridist,  with  the  result  that  many  beautiful  varieties 
have  been  grown,  and  the  old  forms  planted  more  sparingly.  The  silver- 
leaved  variety,  foliis  argenteo-variegatis,  keeps  its  distinctive  character 
provided  it  is  not  planted  within  the  shade  of  trees  or  in  very  wet  soil, 
and  few  golden-leaved  shrubs  of  dwarf  habit  are  more  conspicuous  on 
warm  soils  than  a  group  of  P.  c.  foliis  aureis.  It  is  very  bushy,  of  free 
growth,  and  the  bright  yellow  leaves  are  attractive  from  spring  to  autumn. 
P.  grandiflorus  bears  large,  pure  white,  very  fragrant  flowers  in  abun- 
dance. P.  gordonianus  should  be  planted  freely  as  it  blossoms  late  in 
the  season,  usually  about  July.  It  is  vigorous,  and  its  pure  white  flowers 
are  not  too  strongly  scented,  which,  of  course,  is  a  point  worth  remember- 
ing, as  some  people  consider  the  fragrance  of  Mock  Oranges  overpowering. 
P.  microphyllus,  from  Mexico,  is  the  smallest  of  the  group,  and  may  be 
planted  in  the  front  of  the  shrubbery  as  well  as  in  the  rock-garden.  It 
is  bushy,  between  two  feet  and  three  feet  in  height,  with  twiggy  branches, 
tiny  leaves,  and  small  white  flowers.  Between  this  and  P.  coronarius 
there  are  several  excellent  hybrids,  the  undermentioned  being  the  best : — 
Lemoinei,  the  first  of  the  set,  quickly  followed  by  L.  erectus,  Gerbe  de 
Neige,  Boule  d' Argent  (semi-double),  Mont  Blanc,  and  Candelabre. 
Lemoinei  is  as  pretty  as  any. 

Phillyrsea. — All  the  Phillyraeas  mentioned  are  thoroughly  hardy,  of 
easy  culture,  and  very  ornamental,  evergreen  shrubs,  suitable  for  plant- 
ing under  large  trees.  The  Laurel-leaved  (P.  decora),  known  in  nurseries 
as  P.  vilmoriniana,  is  conspicuous  for  its  long,  leathery,  bright  green 
leaves — the  largest  of  all  the  Phillyrseas.  It  is  a  fine  foliage  shrub,  of 
spreading  habit,  and  its  small,  white,  sweet-scented  flowers  remind  one 
of  those  of  Hawthorn ;  they  are  borne  in  clusters  in  the  axils  of  the  leaves, 
and  are  succeeded  by  round  black  berries  in  summer.  The  shrub  when  in 
berry  must  be  netted  or  birds  will  soon  relieve  the  bushes  of  their  burden. 
P.  angustifolia,  a  narrow-leaved  kind,  grows  well ;  and  P.  media  is  a 
shrub  of  pretty  habit,  and  a  success  in  cold  situations. 

Pieris. — These  evergreen  shrubs  are  ornamental,  hardy,  and  succeed 
best  in  peaty  soil  and  positions  shielded  from  cold  winds.  P.  japonica 
(Andromeda  japonica)  blossoms  early,  its  pure  white,  pendulous  racemes 
appearing  in  great  profusion  on  medium-sized  plants.  Of  this  there  is 
an  attractive  variegated  variety,  with  well-defined  silver  leaves.  It  is 
not  so  vigorous  as  the  type,  and  is  well  worth  a  place  in  the  rock-garden. 
The  white  Lily  of  the  Valley-like  flowers  of  P.  floribunda,  also  known  as 


PERNETTYA    SHOOT    WITH -BERRY    CLUSTERS. 


GOOD   TREES  AND  SHRUBS  247 

Andromeda  floribunda,  appear  in  spring  in  terminal  racemes.  It  is  so 
easily  grown  that  it  is  employed  extensively  for  the  greenhouse  during 
winter.  P.  formosa  (Andromeda  formosa),  from  the  Himalayas,  is '  a 
glorious  white-flowered  shrub,  but  hardy  only  in  the  warmer  parts  of 
the  British  Isles. 

Piptanthus  nepalensis.— The  so-called  evergreen  Laburnum  is 
only  a  half-evergreen ;  it  loses  a  great  number  of  its  trifoliate  glossy 
green  leaves  every  winter.  North  of  the  Trent  it  succeeds  best  against 
a  wall,  and  produces  in  June  terminal  racemes  of  yellow  pea-shaped 
flowers.  Ordinary  soil  suits  it  so  long  as  it  is  sweet  and  well  drained 
and  the  position  beyond  the  reach  of  cold  winds. 

Platanus  acerifolia  (The  Popular  Plane  Tree)  is  undoubtedly  the 
best  of  all  hardy  trees  for  planting  in  towns,  as  it  makes  headway  in 
places  where  many  other  things  would  merely  exist.  P.  orientalis 
(Oriental  Plane)  and  P.  cuneata  are  good  kinds  too.  The  Plane  is  much 
planted  in  the  streets  of  cities. 

Polygala  Chamaebuxus  (The  Box-leaved  Milkwort)  is  a  neat  ever- 
green creeping  shrub,  six  inches  high  and  quite  at  home  in  the  rock- 
garden.  Its  fragrant  creamy- white  flowers  are  borne  in  short  racemes 
in  spring.  P.  C.  purpurea  is  an  excellent  companion  to  the  type,  from 
which  it  differs  by  reason  of  its  reddish-purple  flowers.  Peaty  soil  suits 
these  best. 

Pterocarya  caucasica  (The  Caucasian  Walnut}  is  a  beautiful  de- 
ciduous tree  of  dense  branching  habit,  with  long  leaves  composed  of 
numerous  deep  green  leaflets.  Planted  in  moist  soil  it  usually  grows 
between  twenty  feet  and  thirty  feet  high. 

PrunuS- — There  are  in  this  family  some  of  the  most  charming  of 
hardy  spring-flowering  trees  and  shrubs.  The  genus  Prunus,  according 
to  the  latest  botanical  classification,  includes  the  Almonds,  Peaches, 
Apricots,  Cherries,  and  Plums.  Here  is  a  wealth  of  material  for  the 
amateur  gardener,  and  as  some  of  them  blossom  at  a  season  when  flowers 
out  of  doors  are  very  scarce  and  welcome,  they  should  be  used  freely. 
Remember  that  those  mentioned  here  are  deciduous,  and  the  flowers 
appear  while  the  trees  are  leafless,  for  which  reason  discretion  should  be 
used  at  planting  time  to  see  that  they  are  in  association  with  suitable 
evergreens  so  as  to  bring  out  their  full  beauty.  Protection  from  cutting 
winds  is  essential.  P.  Amygdalus  (the  common  Almond)  is  happy  in 
suburban  gardens  and  flourishes  in  town  squares.  It  is  a  much-branched 
tree,  and  in  early  March  known  by  its  delicate  pink  blossoms.  Of  this  there 
are  several  beautiful  varieties,  amongst  which  are  amara  (Bitter  Almond), 
flowers  white,  flushed  with  rose ;  dulcis  (Sweet  Almond),  flowers  before 
the  last  named ;  flore  pleno,  flowers  double,  rose-pink ;  macrocarpa, 
flowers  very  large,  pale  pink  ;  persicoides,  flowers,  rose-pink,  borne  early. 
P.  nana  is  a  delightful  little  shrub  for  the  shrubbery  border  in  early  spring. 
It  is  very  bushy,  rarely  ever  more  than  four  feet  in  height,  and  in  Feb- 
ruary and  March  smothered  with  rose-coloured  bloom.  P.  Persica  (the 
IJsach  Tree)  is  too  familiar  to  describe  ;  but  its  double-flowered  varieties, 
alba  and  rosea,  are  deserving  of  extended  culture.  P.  davidiana  alba  is  a 


248  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

remarkably  pretty  pure  white-flowered  Peach,  and  the  first  of  the  group 
to  flower.  It  is  of  upright  growth,  and  is  so  white  that  one  is  reminded 
of  a  snowdrift  when  it  is  in  flower.  P.  Simoni  also  bears  white  flowers 
in  great  profusion  about  the  middle  of  February. 

The  purple-leaved  Plum,  P.  cerasifera  atropurpurea,  better  known 
as  P.  Pissardi,  gives  colour  to  the  shrubbery  with  its  deep  purple  leaves. 
It  grows  freely  and  bears  blush-coloured  flowers.  P.  divaricata  is  a 
favourite  tree  for  the  lawn  ;  it  is  of  graceful  outline,  and  bears  small 
pure  white  flowers  in  the  early  part  of  the  year.  For  clothing  walls  of 
medium  height  P.  triloba  flore  -plena,  from  China,  can  be  well  recommended. 
It  is  perfectly  hardy  and  free  in  every  way ;  in  fact,  so  thick  are  the 
flowers  in  March  and  April  that  the  shoots  upon  which  they  are  borne 
are  completely  wreathed.  Their  colour  is  rose  passing  to  delicate  pink. 
Although  recommended  for  wall  culture  it  does  not  need  protection ; 
but  when  grown  thus  the  flowers  are  more  protected  than  in  the  open 
shrubbery.  P.  pensylvanica  is  exceedingly  graceful,  and  in  May  carries 
clusters  of  small  white  flowers.  P.  Cham&cerasus ,  a  European  species, 
is  rarely  seen  in  gardens,  notwithstanding  its  undoubted  beauty.  It  is 
of  elegant  habit  and  quite  distinct ;  flowers  white. 

The  double  white-flowered  form  of  the  Gean  (P.  Avium)  is  one  of  the 
loveliest  of  vigorous  ornamental  Cherries,  the  pure  white  flowers  hanging 
in  great  clusters,  and  lasting  long  in  beauty.  P.  japonica  flore  plena, 
known  also  as  P.  sinensis  flore  plena,  is  a  neat  shrub,  conspicuous  for  its 
abundance  of  small  perfectly  double  white  flowers.  An  excellent  shrub 
for  flowering  under  glass  in  winter.  P.  serrulata  is  often  represented  by 
its  double  white-flowered  form,  but  it  has  many  varieties,  of  which  James 
H.  Veitch  is  particularly  useful,  as  it  flowers  later  than  the  type,  and  on 
this  account  should  be  planted  to  prolong  the  season.  The  large  flowers 
are  considerably  deeper  in  colour  than  those  of  the  last-named,  and 
carried  in  drooping  clusters,  the  leaves  of  a  pleasing  bronze-green.  Two 
other  useful  varieties  are  Watereri,  with  double  rose-pink  flowers,  and  flare 
luteo  plena,  with  yellowish  blossoms.  P.  Mahaleb  (the  Mahaleb  Cherry) 
is  a  lovely  small  white-flowered  Cherry  for  the  lawn.  It  is  thoroughly 
hardy,  and  of  elegant  growth.  P.  Padus  (the  European  Bird  Cherry) 
is  a  pretty  tree  at  flowering  time.  Its  racemes  of  white  flowers  load  the 
woodland  with  an  almost  unpleasantly  strong  odour ;  it  is  very  strong, 
and  grows  to  a  considerable  height. 

Pyrus. — Few  groups  of  hardy  shrubs  and  small  trees  are  more 
beautiful  in  flower  and  fruit  than  the  different  forms  of  Pyrus.  Be- 
yond protection  from  cold  winds,  they  need  no  special  soil  or  culture. 
P.  japonica  (the  Japanese  Quince),  better  known,  perhaps,  in  gardens  as 
Cydonia  japonica,  is  an  old-fashioned  garden  shrub.  It  grows  into  a 
large  bush,  and  its  long,  strong  shoots  are  pretty  in  early  spring.  The 
flowers  are  scarlet,  almost  crimson,  and  appear  in  advance  of  the  leaves. 
In  addition  to  its  value  for  the  shrubbery,  it  may  be  (and  is  in  some 
places)  planted  against  a  wall.  Of  this  accommodating  shrub  there  are 
several  excellent  varieties,  differing  in  the  size  and  colour  of  the  flowers. 
For  instance,  one  bears  the  name  of  cardinalis,  and  has  larger,  brighter, 


GOOD   TREES   AND   SHRUBS  249 

and  more  substantial  flowers  ;  while  the  colour  of  those  of  rosea  is  indi- 
cated by  the  name  ;  nivalis  is  blush-white ;  P.  Maulei,  from  Japan,  is 
a  slender  shrub,  with  flowers  not  so  large  as  those  of  P.  japonica,  and  dis- 
tinctly shaded  with  orange.  P.  baccata  (Malus  baccata),  the  Siberian 
Crab,  is  not  only  a  flowering  tree  of  rare  beauty,  but  in  autumn  is  bright 
with  richly  coloured  fruits.  Of  this  there  are  several  beautiful  varieties 
with  variously  coloured  fruits.  This  is  a  Crab  for  every  lawn,  large  and 
small. 

P.  floribunda,  a  native  of  Japan,  is  one  of  the  prettiest  of  the  family 
for  the  garden.  Its  long  branches  are  smothered  in  spring  with  pink 
flowers  and  unopened  rose-coloured  buds.  The  fruit  is  small  and  not 
very  showy.  The  semi-double  flowered  variety  flore  pleno,  also  met 
with  occasionally  as  Parkmannii,  has  rose-pink  flowers.  Atrosanguinea 
is  deeper  in  colour,  and  very  charming.  P.  Malus  is  well  known  in 
gardens,  and  its  varieties,  coccinea,  rosea,  nervosa,  and  pendula,  are  grand 
for  decorative  planting.  P.  prunifolia  is  a  vigorous  tree,  with  large  pink 
flowers,  and  scarlet  fruits  in  autumn.  Of  the  last  named  there  are 
varieties  with  red,  crimson,  yellow,  orange,  and  green  fruits.  P.  sikki- 
mensis  should  be  planted  freely  for  the  sake  of  its  dainty  white  and  pink 
flowers.  It  is  of  excellent  habit,  and  by  no  means  common.  The  same 
remark  also  applies  to  P.  Scheideckeri,  one  of  the  loveliest  of  spring- 
flowering  trees.  The  flowers  are  large  and  rich  pink.  The  double- 
flowered  form  of  P.  eoronaria,  the  sweet-scented  Crab  from  North  America, 
is  a  very  choice  tree,  with  large,  long-lasting,  pale-pink  or  rose-coloured 
flowers.  P.  Ringo  (Malus  Ringo)  is  a  dwarf,  bright,  spring- flowering 
tree.  It  is  freely  branched,  of  slow  growth,  and  with  pink  flowers. 
P.  spectabilis,  another  kind  of  great  value,  forms  a  round-headed  tree 
with  long  branches,  and  in  spring  has  clusters  of  rich  pink  semi-double 
flowers.  P.  Aucuparia  (Mountain  Ash)  and  its  varieties  are  splendid 
trees  for  autumn  effect.  The  type  bears  a  profusion  of  white  flowers, 
generally  in  April  and  May,  and  handsome  clusters  of  richly-coloured 
berries  in  autumn.  The  variety  fructo  luteo  has  yellow  berries,  and  as 
they  almost  weigh  down  the  branches,  one  may  imagine  the  effect  of  a 
good  specimen.  P.  Aria  (White  Beam)  is  a  European  tree,  with  white 
flowers  in  May,  and  orange-scarlet  berries  in  autumn  and  winter.  The 
varieties  sulphurea,  graca,  and  lutescens  are  worth  notice.  P.  vestita 
(Nepaul  White  Beam)  is  one  of  the  most  handsome  of  White  Beams. 
The  large  leaves  are  covered  with  a  white  woolly-like  substance. 

Quercus  (Oaks). — The  Oaks  are  familiar  garden  trees.  The  autumn 
effect  of  such  kinds  as  Q.  coccinea  (the  American  Scarlet  Oak)  is  magnifi- 
cent. Its  foliage  in  September  and  October  turns  to  crimson  and  scarlet. 
Another  oak  with  gorgeous  coloured  foliage  in  autumn  is  the  Red  Oak 
(Q.  rubra)}  with  large  handsome  leaves.  Q.  conferta,  known  also  as 
Q.  pannonica,  is  distinct.  In  spring  its  leaves  are  bright  green,  and  in 
autumn  change  to  shades  of  brown  and  yellow.  Q.  castaneafolia  is  a 
remarkably  fine  kind,  with  large  polished  green  leaves.  Of  the  Turkey 
Oaks  (Q.  Cerris),  one  named  variegata  should  be  grown  in  preference  to 
any  other  silver-leaved  variety.  It  has  silvery-grey  leaves.  Amongst 


250  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

the  golden-leaved  Oaks,  Q.  pedunculata  concordia  is  the  best  of  its  class. 
Of  the  English  Oak  (Q.  pedunculata)  there  are  several  varieties  of  much 
beauty,  that  named  purpurascens,  or  atropurpurea,  is  very  showy,  and 
of  free  growth.  Q.  filictfolia  has  deeply  cut  leaves.  Q.  laurifolia,  with 
its  large  leaves,  creates  a  pretty  effect  in  autumn  when  its  foliage  is  tinged 
with  yellow  and  deep  red.  There  are  many  evergreen  Oaks,  but  the 
following  may  be  taken  as  representing  a  few  of  the  best  for  general 
effect.  Q.  Ilex  (the  Holm  Oak)  is  the  most  frequently  planted.  It  forms 
a  large  dense  head  with  long  spreading  branches.  There  are  several  dis- 
tinct varieties,  all  of  which  are  better  for  being  often  transplanted  in  a 
young  state,  as  the  roots  are  not  furnished  with  many  fibres.  The  Cork 
Oak  (Q.  Suber)  merits  attention  for  its  very  rough  bark  and  neat  habit. 
It  is  quite  a  small  tree.  Q.  ballota  (Sweet  Oak)  is  slow  in  growth,  and 
has  rough  greyish  bark.  Q.  cuspidata  and  Q.  c.  variegata  are  ornamental, 
and  quite  hardy. 

Raphiolepis  japonica  is  a  sturdy  growing  evergreen  shrub  for  a 
wall  in  localities  where  it  is  likely  to  suffer  in  the  ordinary  shrubbery  in 
severe  winters.  It  is  rather  slow  in  growth,  and  the  deep  green  leathery 
leaves  are  set  off  in  spring  by  terminal  clusters  of  white  sweet-scented 
flowers,  these  being  succeeded  by  round  black  berries.  For  forcing  into 
bloom  for  the  greenhouse  in  early  spring,  this  rather  uncommon  Japanese 
shrub  can  be  recommended.  It  flourishes  in  ordinary  soil,  and  dislikes 
stagnant  water  near  its  roots. 

Rhododendrons. — Formerly  Rhododendrons  and  Azaleas  were  kept 
distinct,  but  they  are  now  botanically  classed  under  one  heading.  No 
group  of  hardy  shrubs  is  more  varied  in  colour  or  more  attractive  at 
flowering  time  than  these,  and  as  they  succeed  in  nearly  all  well-drained 
soils  which  do  not  contain  lime  or  chalk,  there  seems  little  reason  why 
the  better  kinds  should  not  enter  more  largely  into  the  decoration  of 
public  parks  and  gardens.  We  like  to  see  these  shrubs  in  groups  or 
masses  with  a  suitable  background  for  the  delicately  tinted  flowers,  and 
beyond  the  reach  of  cold  winds,  as  the  flowers  of  some,  especially  the 
deciduous  kinds,  appear  early,  and  are  apt  to  suffer  from  late  frosts. 
The  shrubs  receive  much  benefit  from  a  yearly  top  dressing  of  leaf- 
mould,  and  while  growth  is  in  progress  water  should  be  supplied  freely. 
The  deciduous  sorts  prefer  partial  shade  to  full  sunlight.  Rhododen- 
drons are  easily  propagated  by  seed,  cuttings,  layering,  and  grafting.  As 
the  seed  is  very  fine,  be  careful  not  to  cover  it  too  deeply,  or  the  seedling 
will  be  unable  to  make  its  way  through  the  surface  soil.  It  should  be 
barely  covered  with  soil  passed  through  a  fine  mesh  sieve.  For  small 
quantities  shallow  pans  or  boxes,  placed  under  glass,  are  convenient,  but 
where  plants  are  required  in  great  numbers,  slightly  raised  beds  out  of 
doors  should  be  resorted  to.  Shade  the  beds  with  Spruce  or  Fir  boughs. 
It  seems  strange  that  plants  are  not  more  frequently  raised  from  cuttings. 
True,  they  take  longer  to  reach  planting  size  than  grafted  ones,  but  there 
is  no  trouble  in  looking  after  suckers,  as  is  the  case  with  grafted  plants. 
Cuttings  of  the  young  half-ripened  wood  of  many  of  the  smaller  leaved 
sorts  emit  roots  if  planted  in  sandy  peat  in  a  warm  propagating  case,  but 


GOOD   TREES   AND   SHRUBS  251 

the  large-leaved  sorts  are  not  easy  to  raise  from  cuttings.  Layering  is 
another  means  of  increasing  the  stock.  Select  nice  well-ripened  shoots 
and  peg  them  into  the  soil,  which  should  be  kept  moist.  Grafting  is 
resorted  to  principally  in  the  case  of  hybrids. 

Attention  is  first  directed  to  a  few  of  the  best  of  the  deciduous  kinds  : — 
R.  arborescens,  an  American  species,  flowers  rather  later  than  most  of 
its  congeners.  Its  sweet-scented  flowers  are  borne  freely.  R.  viscosum 
(Clammy  Honeysuckle)  merits  attention  on  account  of  the  freedom  with 
which  its  white  scented  flowers  are  borne.  R.  occidentale,  the  Western 
Azalea,  produces  a  wealth  of  white  sweet-scented  flowers,  the  base  of  the 
upper  segments  being  blotched  with  yellow.  It  flowers  late  in  the  season, 
and  its  autumn-tinted  foliage  is  very  bright.  R.  Schlippenbachii,  an 
uncommon  species  from  China,  has  large  delicate  pink  flowers  spotted 
with  crimson.  It  is  quite  hardy,  of  excellent  growth,  and  grand  for  mass- 
ing. R.  calendulacea  grows  about  six  feet  high  when  suitably  placed.  It 
flowers  freely,  and  is  orange-red  in  colour.  R.  rhombicum,  from  Japan, 
is  a  valuable  shrub,  and  quite  hardy.  Its  rosy-purple  flowers  appear  in 
April,  and  are  welcome  because  few  other  species  are  in  flower  at  the  same 
time.  R.  Vaseyi  is  another  free-flowering  kind  from  America.  Its 
delicate  white  and  pink  flowers  are  carried  in  loose  clusters.  R.  dauricum 
belongs  to  the  very  early-flowering  section.  It  is  of  rather  straggling 
habit,  three  feet  high,  and  bears  purplish-coloured  flowers  in  abundance. 
R.  flavum,  better  known  as  R.  pontica,  is  a  showy  plant  in  spring.  Its 
large  flowers  are  borne  in  clusters,  and  the  colour  is  yellow  or  orange,  and 
R.  sinense  is  another  attractive  kind.  The  gorgeous  coloured  hardy 
hybrids  and  varieties  have  originated  principally  through  the  crossing 
and  intercrossing  of  such  species  as  R.  calendulacea,  nudiflorum,  occidentale, 
viscosum,  flavum,  sinense,  &c.,  the  progeny,  of  course,  being  worked  again 
in  the  same  way. 

The  hardy  Azaleas  or  Rhododendrons,  as  they  are  called,  should  be 
planted  in  all  gardens  of  sufficient  size.  In  spring  the  tier-like  growth  is 
smothered  with  flowers  of  spicy  fragrance,  and  in  autumn  the  leaves 
turn  to  resplendent  colours.  The  bush  spreads  out,  and  in  time  covers 
much  ground.  Owing  to  their  early  flowering  give  shelter  from  east 
and  north-east  winds  ;  they  are  not  tender  in  themselves,  but  late  frosts 
hurt  the  flowers.  Mr.  Anthony  Waterer,  of  Knaphill,  Woking,  has 
raised  a  glorious  series,  the  colours  of  wonderful  richness  and  variety — 
white,  crimson,  scarlet,  orange,  yellow,  pink,  buff — and  this  new  race  is 
in  every  way  an  advance  upon  the  older  forms.  It  is  important  to 
group  Rhododendrons  carefully  so  as  to  avoid  unpleasant  colour  contrasts. 
It  is  very  easy  to  go  wrong,  as,  for  instance,  a  flower  that  among  shades 
of  rosy  amaranth  may  look  a  pure  pink,  if  removed  from  their  neighbour- 
hood and  put  beside  a  pure  pink,  that  is  seen  among  white  or  scarlet  rose, 
will  be  found  to  be  quite  out  of  harmony.  This  width  of  colour-range 
will  also  enable  the  buyer  to  choose  the  combination  that  best  pleases 
his  eye — whether  of  clear  pink  with  white  and  rosy  scarlet,  of  the  few 
shades  that  incline  to  salmon-rose,  of  the  strong  and  very  numerous 
amaranths,  or  the  cool  purples  which  go  best  with  the  clear  whites  and 


254  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

the  best : — Atrosanguineum,  with  its  large  richly-coloured  flowers,  lasts  a 
long  time  in  good  condition ;  carneum  produces  rose-coloured  flowers, 
and  those  of  albidum  are  white  or  nearly  so.  R.  aureum  is  conspicuous 
for  its  drooping  racemes  of  yellow  flowers,  and  in  autumn  its  richly 
coloured  leaves  are  distinct  and  showy.  The  variety  pracox  is  a  border 
shrub,  and  even  more  valuable  than  the  last  named,  as  it  flowers  very 
early.  The  small,  red,  Fuchsia-like  flowers  of  R.  speciosum,  formerly 
called  R.  fuchsioides,  are  produced  very  freely,  and  have  long  projecting 
stamens.  Although  perfectly  hardy  it  is  better  for  a  wall,  as  its  tiny 
flowers  are  then  seen  to  advantage ;  the  slender  shoots  are  spiny.  R. 
gordonianum,  raised  between  7?.  aureum  and  R.  sanguineum,  is  vigorous 
and  very  free. 

Robinias  (Hardy  Acacias). — These  are  trees  of  much  interest,  quite 
hardy,  and  free-flowering.  Of  the  Common  Locust  Tree  (R.  Pseud- 
acacia)  there  are  several  good  varieties.  Decaisneana  is  of  free  growth, 
and  produces  light  pink  flowers  ;  Bessoniana  is  a  thornless  variety,  and 
an  excellent  tree  for  town  gardens.  It  forms  a  dense  head,  and  its 
bright  green  leaves  hang  long  after  those  of  other  kinds  have  dropped  ; 
crispa  has  distinctly  curled  leaves  ;  and  aurea  is  a  bright  yellow  f oliaged 
variety ;  while  semperflorens  flowers  nearly  the  whole  summer  through. 
R.  hispida,  the  lovely  North  American  Rose  Acacia,  is  the  most  orna- 
mental of  the  genus,  and  it  is  very  beautiful  towards  midsummer,  when 
bearing  its  drooping  racemes  of  rose-pink  flowers.  For  villa-gardens, 
or  where  space  is  restricted,  this  should  not  be  lost  sight  of.  Select  a 
sheltered  spot  for  this  Acacia,  as  the  branches  are  rather  brittle,  and  in 
rough  weather  are  apt  to  snap  off.  The  variety  named  inermis  is  very 
fine  too.  It  is  free  in  growth,  with  large  leaves  and  delicately-coloured 
flowers.  R.  neo-mexicana  flowers  in  autumn,  at  which  time  it  is  very 
distinct.  Its  rose-coloured  blossoms  are  in  dense  racemes.  R.  Kelseyi 
is  a  new  introduction  from  North  America.  It  assumes  a  tree-like  habit, 
and  bears  pretty  rose-coloured  flowers  almost  as  large  as  those  of  R. 
hispida. 

Romneya  Coulter!  (Cdlifornian  Bush  Poppy).— Every  gardener 
almost  tries  to  grow  this  beautiful  shrubby  plant,  which  has  big,  flimsy, 
fluttering  flowers  of  snowy  white,  with  a  centre  of  golden  stamens.  The 
flowers  are  frequently  over  six  inches  across,  and  a  strong  plant  will 
bear  many  expanded  at  one  time.  It  is  not  very  hardy,  but  is  frequently 
quite  happy  in  many  gardens  in  the  south  of  England.  In  the  north  it 
should  be  grown  indoors,  and  is  well  worthy  of  glass  protection.  A  warm, 
sheltered  wall  is  a  suitable  place  for  it,  and  well-drained  loamy  soil 
essential.  Captain  Coleridge,  a  good  gardener  at  Twyford,  in  Berkshire, 
says  :  "  I  leave  the  old  growth  as  a  protection  during  the  winter,  but  as 
soon  as  the  new  shoots  appear  at  the  base  the  old  wood  is  cut  down  to 
the  ground  like  any  other  herbaceous  plant."  Writing  in  the  summer  of 
1899,  Captain  Coleridge  says  that  his  largest  plant  had  thirty-seven  ex- 
panded blooms  besides  numerous  buds  at  one  time.  "  When  I  planted 
it  eight  years  ago  it  was  a  very  small  plant.  It  was  put  in  a  warm 
corner  facing  south-west,  and  it  now  covers  ten  feet  of  ground  and  is  five 


GOOD   TREES   AND   SHRUBS  255 

feet  high.  It  has  no  protection,  and  blooms  freely  every  year."  A 
newer  species,  which  is  still  rare,  is  R.  trichocalyx.  It  closely  resembles 
Coultert,  and  needs  the  same  treatment  and  soil. 

RubllS. — The  Bramble  family  is  a  very  large  one,  and  contains  many 
handsome  garden  plants  in  addition  to  the  kinds  such  as  Raspberry, 
Blackberry,  Loganberry,  and  Lowberry,  which  are  grown  for  the  sake 
of  their  fruit.  Some  of  the  species  have  been  in  cultivation  for  a  very 
long  period,  but  a  great  many  have  been  introduced  during  the  present 
century.  The  latter  are  mostly  of  Chinese  origin,  and  comprise  plants 
of  trailing  habit,  others  with  long  slender  branches  suitable  for  clothing 
the  pillars  and  crossbars  of  a  pergola,  and  still  others  which  grow  into 
bush  form.  The  difference  in  the  leafage  is  quite  as  remarkable  as  the 
habit,  whilst  some  are  conspicuous  by  reason  of  their  white  bark.  Like 
the  older  kinds,  they  require  good  loamy  soil  which  must  be  enriched 
occasionally  if  the  best  results  are  desired.  An  annual  pruning  is  neces- 
sary, that  being  done  as  soon  as  the  fruiting  season  is  over.  All  old 
branches  are  then  cut  away  except  in  the  few  kinds  which  continue  to 
flower  and  fruit  from  young  wood  from  the  same  old  branches  each  year. 
Good  kinds  to  grow  are  : — Odoratus,  the  North  American  purple-flowered 
Raspberry;  it  grows  freely,  and  during  July  bears  fragrant  flowers  in 
terminal  corymbs.  R.  deliciosus  (the  spineless  Rocky  Mountain  Bramble) 
forms  a  good  bush,  and  its  white  flowers  are  two  inches  or  so  across, 
with  a  central  cluster  of  yellow  stamens.  It  requires  very  little  pruning 
other  than  thinning,  and  should  be  planted  in  bold  groups.  7?.  bifloms, 
a  free-growing,  white-stemmed  species,  is  effective  in  winter  after  its 
leaves  have  fallen.  It  is  frequently  called  the  whitewashed-stemmed 
Bramble.  Others  which  have  showy  white  stems  are  R.  btflorus,  var. 
quinquefloms  and  R.  lasiostylus,  both  of  Chinese  origin.  R.  bambusarum, 
R.flagelliformis,  and  R.  Omeiensis  have  all  long  slender  branches  clothed 
with  pretty  leaves.  They  may  be  planted  against  a  pergola  with  ad- 
vantage. Other  distinct  Chinese  sorts  are  R.  Giraldianus,  R.  chroosepalus , 
R.  Playfairii,  and  R.  VeitcMi.  An  old  kind  of  considerable  decorative 
value  is  found  in  R.  ihyrsoideus  flore  pleno.  It  has  semi-double  pink 
flowers,  and  blossoms  freely  during  July  and  August.  Mature  bushes  are 
often  eight  feet  high  and  ten  feet  through.  For  planting  out  of  doors 
in  southern  counties  the  Japanese  Bramble  (R.  phcenicolasius)  is  a  success. 
It  is  vigorous,  with  pink  flowers  carried  in  long  racemes,  followed  in 
autumn  by  scarlet  berries.  This  is  called  the  Japanese  Wineberry,  too, 
and  is  a  picturesque_spreading  shrub ;  its  fruits  are  liked  by  some  for 
dessert  and  jam. 

Sambucus  (Elder). — The  Elders  will  grow  in  gravelly  soil,  but  do 
best  in  moist,  loamy  soil  where  there  is  a  little  shade.  The  type,  S.  ntgra, 
need  not  be  referred  to  here,  but  a  few  of  its  varieties  are  worthy  of  con- 
sideration. In  the  first  place,  the  Parsley-leaved  variety,  laciniata,  is  a 
handsome  cut-leaved  Elder,  and  foliis  aureis  (Golden  Elder)  has  richly 
coloured  foliage,  especially  if  the  soil  is  inclined  to  be  dry  and  the  position 
a  sunny  one.  The'silver-leaved  form  makes  a'good  companion  to  it,  as  it 
grows  freely,  and  the  silvered  leaves  [are  [[quite  distinct.  Sfjaamosa,  a 


256  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

species  widely  distributed  in  the  Northern  Hemisphere,  conspicuous  during 
late  summer  by  reason  of  its  branches  of  scarlet  berries.  It  has  numer- 
ous pretty  cut-leaved  varieties,  of  which  laciniata  with  daintily  divided 
leaves,  foliis  aurea  with  golden  leaves,  and  plumosa  aurea  with  showy 
golden  leaves  divided  into  innumerable  segments  are  the  best.  All  are 
rank  feeders  and  are  best  planted  in  groups. 

Skimmias. — These  are  good  evergreen  shrubs  when  in  flower  in 
spring  or  when  laden  with  their  bright  scarlet  berries  in  autumn.  They  are 
quite  hardy,  neat  in  growth,  with  large  panicles  of  fragrant  white  flowers. 
Plant  in  rich  deep  soil,  and  avoid  cold  bleak  situations.  In  cold  counties 
it  is  safer  to  grow  them  in  pots  or  plant  out  in  cool  houses  in  light  airy 
positions.  S.  japonica  and  S.  Fortunei  are  the  sorts  most  frequently 
seen  in  gardens,  but  S.  Foremanii  is  particularly  valuable,  as  its  large 
round  scarlet  berries  hang  upon  the  bushes  for  at  least  twelve  months. 

Sophora  japonica  is  an  attractive,  deciduous  tree,  with  sulphur- 
coloured,  pea-shaped  flowers  in  terminal  panicles  towards  the  close  of 
summer.  It  is  graceful  in  growth,  and  should  be  planted  in  all  gardens 
where  a  suitable  position  can  be  found  for  it,  preferably  as  an  isolated 
specimen  on  a  lawn  where  the  soil  is  well  drained. 

Spartium  junceum  (Spanish  Broom)  has  been  grown  in  this  country 
since  about  the  middle  of  the  fifteenth  century.  It  grows  to  a  height 
of  about  ten  feet,  and  is  a  shrub  for  planting  in  dry  or  sandy  soil. 
Racemes  of  fragrant  Pea-shaped  flowers  are  borne  along  the  slender, 
almost  leafless,  branches  in  late  summer.  For  planting  in  masses  on 
sandy  banks  few  shrubs  are  more  effective  at  flowering  time. 

Spiraeas. — Amongst  hardy  deciduous  shrubs  of  dwarf  growth,  few 
offer  such  a  pleasing  variety  of  flower  colour  as  the  Spiraeas,  which  are 
reasonable  in  price,  of  simple  culture,  and  sufficiently  hardy  to  stand 
severe  winters.  Plant  in  fairly  rich  moist  soil,  and  a  position  shielded 
from  the  fierce  midday  sun  is  preferable  to  full  exposure.  Propagation 
is  readily  effected  by  cuttings  of  the  young  wood  taken  off  in  August, 
planted  in  sandy  soil,  and  placed  in  a  warm,  close  case  for  a  fortnight 
or  so.  S.  hypericifolia,  from  Asia  Minor,  is  a  dainty  species  with  white 
flowers.  Its  long,  slender  shoots  and  small  white  flowers  create  a  pretty 
effect  in  May.  S.  discolor  (aricefolia),  a  well-known  border  shrub,  pro- 
duces lavishly  its  cream-white  flowers,  in  long,  graceful  panicles,  about 
midsummer.  In  order  to  see  the  full  beauty  of  this  shrub,  plant  it  in 
an  open  spot,  where  it  is  not  cramped  for  space,  as  in  many  shrub  borders. 
S.  media,  better  known  under  its  garden  name  of  S.  confusa,  has  quantities 
of  white  flowers  in  corymbs  all  over  the  plant.  It  is  a  twiggy  shrub, 
and  largely  used  for  forcing.  S.  prunifolia  flore  pleno,  the  double-flowered, 
plum-leaved  Spiraea,  is  a  precious  spring-flowering  kind,  but,  unfortunately, 
not  much  grown.  Its  small,  white  flowers  appear  in  abundance.  S. 
Douglasi,  from  North  America,  is  fairly  well  known.  It  has  terminal 
panicles  of  rosy-red  flowers  in  July.  S.  Thunbergii,  a  Japanese  species, 
grows  about  three  feet  or  four  feet  high,  and  in  early  March,  sometimes 
even  in  February,  its  clusters  of  fragrant  white  flowers  are  welcome.  Its 
autumn-tinted  foliage  is  very  pleasing.  Space  should  be  reserved  in 


GOOD   TREES  AND   SHRUBS  257 

the  rock-garden  for  S.  bullata,  known  also  as  S.  crispifolia,  an  uncommon 
Japanese  species,  much  too  dwarf  and  slow  in  growth  for  the  ordinary 
shrubbery.  Its  leaves  are  small,  deep  green,  and  its  rose-coloured 
flowers  appear  in  dense  corymbs.  S.  japonica  Anthony  Waterer  is  a 
delightful  late-flowering  Spiraea.  It  is  dwarf,  bushy,  and  its  rich  crimson 
flowers  remain  showy  for  a  long  time.  Few  shrubs  are  more  appropriate 
for  massing.  S.  j.  glabrata  is  rare,  and  very  beautiful ;  flowers  pink, 
borne  in  large  corymbs.  S.  arguta  is  the  most  charming  of  white-flowered 
Spiraeas.  It  is  perfectly  hardy,  and  its  small  snow-white  blossoms  are 
very  lasting.  S.  Van  Houttei,  raised  from  S.  media  and  S.  triloba,  also 
bears  white  flowers  in  great  abundance.  S.  Undleyana,  a  magnificent 
species  from  the  Himalayas,  bears  terminal  panicles  of  white  flowers 
late  in  the  season.  When  suitably  placed,  it  grows  nine  feet  high,  and 
is  well  worth  a  place  in  the  garden  as  a  foliage  shrub  alone,  its  graceful 
pinnate  leaves  being  of  a  refreshing  shade  of  green. 

The  Staphyleas  (Bladder  Nuts)  are  pretty,  spring-flowering,  de- 
ciduous shrubs,  six  feet  or  more  high,  and  thoroughly  hardy.  Ordinary, 
well-drained  soil  suits  them  perfectly,  and  if  frequent  doses  of  water 
can  be  given  while  growth  is  young  much  benefit  ensues.  S.  colchica, 
from  the  Caucasus,  is  finer  than  the  European  species,  S.  pinnata,  and 
when  bearing  its  pendulous  racemes  of  white  flowers,  it  is  remarkably 
effective. 

Stuartias. — The  Stuartias  are  not  happy  in  every  garden.  They 
are  rather  tender,  perhaps,  and  greatly  dislike  east  and  north  winds, 
especially  in  spring.  A  rich,  loamy  soil,  to  which  has  been  added  leaf- 
mould  and  peat,  favours  the  best  growth.  Anything  like  stagnant  water 
about  the  roots  is  fatal.  S.  mrginica,  from  North  America,  is  perhaps 
the  best  known.  Its  cream-white  flowers,  between  two  inches  and  three 
inches  across,  are  white,  with  prominent  brownish-red  stamens.  S. 
Pseudo-camellia,  a  Japanese  species,  is  exceedingly  attractive  when 
displaying  its  bold,  snow-white  flowers  with  yellow  stamens.  The 
autumn-tinted  foliage  is  distinct  and  showy. 

Styrax  japonicum  produces  a  wealth  of  snow-white,  sweet-scented, 
drooping,  bell-shaped  flowers,  relieved  by  yellow  stamens.  It  is  quite 
hardy,  and  suitable  for  planting  on  the  fringe  of  the  lawn.  It  is  a  much- 
branched,  rather  loose  shrub,  requiring  a  rich,  well-drained  soil  and  sunny 
position  to  ensure  a  thorough  ripening  of  the  wood,  without  which  a  full 
flower  display  cannot  be  expected.  S.  Obassia  is  another  excellent  tree. 
Its  leaves  are  large  and  ornamental,  whilst  its  white  flowers  are  quite 
as  beautiful  as  those  of  the  other  species. 

Symphoricarpus  racemosus  (Snowberry). — This  deciduous  North 
American  shrub,  usually  four  feet  or  five  feet  high,  is  not  conspicuous 
for  showy  flowers,  its  decorative  value  depending  upon  its  round  white 
berries,  which  remain  upon  the  branches  long  after  the  leaves  have  fallen. 
It  is  of  the  simplest  culture,  and  quite  a  success  under  the  shade  of  trees. 

Syringas  (Lilacs). — As  a  garden  shrub  the  Lilac  is  familiar,  few 
things  being  more  easily  grown,  or  more  effective  at  flowering  time. 
With  the  exception  of  S.  persica,  all  those  here  mentioned  have  been 

R 


258  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

raised  principally  from  S.  vulgaris,  the  common  Lilac.  S.  persica  is  a 
neat-growing  species  of  slender  habit,  and  bears  a  profusion  of  small 
lilac-coloured  flowers.  Of  garden  varieties  the  following  is  a  good  selec- 
tion : — Double-flowered  sorts  :  Michael  Buchner,  large  truss  delicate, 
lavender,  edged  with  pale  rose ;  Virginite,  blush  pink ;  *Mme.  Lemoine, 
cream-white  passing  to  pure  white,  large  and  substantial ;  Mme.  Jules 
Finger,  pale  rose,  large,  and  very  fragrant ;  La  Tour  d'Auvergne,  violet- 
purple,  sweet  scented  ;  Alphonse  Lavallee,  pale  blue,  touched  with  violet. 
Single-flowered  sorts  : — *Alba  grandiflora,  large  pure  white  flowers,  borne 
in  handsome  trusses ;  Marie  Legray,  another  excellent  white-flowered 
kind  not  quite  so  vigorous  in  growth  as  the  last  named ;  *Souvenir  de 
L.  Spath,  purple ;  Charles  X.,  rosy  purple.  President  Grevy,  Louis 
Van  Houtte,  and  Princess  Marie  are  good  sorts,  too.  Those  marked  with 
an  asterisk  should  be  chosen  first. 

Tamarix  can  be  thoroughly  recommended  for  the  sea-coast.  They 
are  of  free  growth  in  sandy  soil,  and  bear  slender  spikes  of  small  flowers 
in  great  abundance  towards  early  autumn.  T.  gallica  is  very  feathery 
and  graceful.  In  favourable  positions  it  grows  at  least  a  dozen  feet 
high,  and  the  flowers  appear  like  veils  of  misty  pink.  T.  Pallasii  rosea 
is  a  delightful  kind.  It  forms  growths  three  feet  high  during  summer, 
which  throughout  late  July  and  August  are  covered  with  pretty  rose- 
coloured  flowers.  It  must  be  pruned  hard  back  in  February  each 
year. 

Tecoma  grandiflora,  sometimes  met  with  as  Bignonia  grandiflora, 
a  native  of  China  and  Japan,  deserves  generous  treatment,  as  its  flowers 
are  very  handsome,  appear  in  great  terminal  clusters,  and  the  colour  is 
rich  orange-red.  In  very  cold  localities  it  needs  the  protection  of  a  wall, 
and  must  have  well-drained  rather  light  soil.  T.  radicans  (Bignonia 
radicans)  is  better  known  than  the  first  named,  and  a  much  older  in- 
habitant of  our  gardens.  It  is  a  midsummer  flowering  climber,  vigorous, 
quite  distinct,  and  highly  attractive.  It  is  serviceable  for  training 
against  walls,  up  old  trees,  pergolas,  &c.,  and  the  tubular-shaped 
orange-red  flowers  are  borne  in  great  profusion. 

Tilia. — The  Limes  are  noble  trees.  All  are  perfectly  hardy,  and 
delight  in  moist  rich  soil,  and  a  position  screened  from  cold  winds.  The 
Common  Lime  is  an  excellent  avenue  tree,  and  bears  quantities  of  de- 
lightfully fragrant  yellowish- white  flowers.  The  Silver-leaved  Lime  is 
vigorous,  and  exceedingly  ornamental.  Its  bold  bright  green  leaves  are 
covered  with  white  tomentum  on  the  under  sides. 

Ulex  (Gorse,  Furze,  or  Whin). — The  type  is  a  native  shrub  and  well 
known,  but  the  double-flowered  variety  is  less  frequently  planted.  Its 
double  yellow  flowers  are  very  bright,  and  remain  a  long  time  in  fresh 
condition.  U.  nanus  is  welcome,  as  its  flowers  appear  in  early  autumn, 
and  a  succession  of  blossom  is  maintained  until  December.  It  grows 
about  fifteen  inches  high.  Furze  plants  dislike  much  interference  at  the 
roots.  They  succeed  in  poor  soils  and  exposed  situations,  and  are  readily 
propagated  by  cuttings  planted  in  sandy  soil  on  a  shady  border,  or  by 
Strong  seedlings  are  very  reasonable  in  price.  No  shrub  is  more 


DOUBLE   GORSE    (ULEX   EUROPMUS   FLORE-PLENO}. 


THE  JAPANESE  SNOWBALL  TREE  (VIBURNUM  PLICATUM). 


GOOD  TREES  AND  SHRUBS  259 

suitable  for  clothing  rough  banks.  The  French  Gorse  (U.  Gallii)  is  worth 
growing  on  dry  sunny  banks  on  account  of  its  dwarf  compact  habit  and 
free-flowering  qualities.  The  flowers  appear  during  late  summer  and 
autumn. 

Veronicas, — The  New  Zealand  kinds  are  neat  shrubs,  with  evergreen 
leaves  and  spikes  of  variously  coloured  flowers.  Although  not  sufficiently 
hardy  for  general  planting  throughout  the  British  Isles,  they  may  be 
placed  in  a  sheltered  nook  in  the  garden,  especially  in  the  south  and 
west  of  England.  Avoid  planting  in  positions  exposed  to  the  east,  as 
cold  winds  are  harmful.  The  soil  should  be  rich,  not  too  moist,  and 
thoroughly  well  drained,  as  sour  soil  is  most  injurious  to  them.  V. 
Andersoni  variegata  is  very  handsome,  with  silver  leaves.  It  is  used 
largely  in  the  flower-garden,  and  for  growing  in  pots  for  winter  decora- 
tion few  shrubs  are  more  attractive,  or  more  easily  grown.  V.  Traversii 
is  a  neat-growing  species,  with  deep  green  leaves,  and  in  late  summer 
bears  spikes  of  pale  blue  or  white  flowers.  It  grows  four  or  five  feet 
high,  and  succeeds  admirably  near  the  sea-line.  V.  spedosa  bears  long 
racemes  of  rich  purplish-blue  flowers.  It  is  of  good  growth.  The 
garden  varieties,  Silver  Star,  Blue  Gem,  and  Purple  Queen,  are  very 
attractive. 

Viburnums  (Guelder  Rose). — These  are  quite  hardy  shrubs  and  very 
free,  especially  such  kinds  as  V.  Opulus  sterile,  V.  plicatum,  and  V. 
macrocephalum.  Deep  loamy,  well-drained  soil  suits  them  best,  and  to 
encourage  a  thorough  ripening  of  the  wood  a  sunny  position  should  be 
selected.  They  are  familiar  border  shrubs  and  admirably  adapted  for 
blooming  in  winter  under  glass.  V.  Opulus,  the  native  Guelder  Rose,  is 
a  valuable  berry-bearing  shrub.  In  October  the  leaves  change  to  lovely 
shades  of  crimson  and  orange.  The  variety  sterile  is  perhaps  the  most 
familiar  Snowball  Tree,  very  ornamental,  of  easy  culture  and  good  habit. 
Its  round  heads  of  flowers  are  borne  in  great  abundance  and  remain 
attractive  for  a  long  time.  V.  plicatum  (Japanese  Snowball  Tree),  so  far 
as  purity  of  flower  is  concerned,  is  superior  to  the  last  named,  but  the 
plant  is  not  nearly  so  graceful  in  habit.  It  blossoms  usually  in  June, 
and  its  snow-white  flower  clusters  are  produced  at  the  points  of  the 
small  twigs  along  the  shoots.  It  may  be  used  with  excellent  effect  as  a 
wall  covering,  and  for  flowering  under  glass  during  winter  it  can  be  well 
recommended.  It  is  a  grand  shrub  for  massing.  V.  macrocephalum, 
an  uncommon  kind,  is  a  native  of  China  and  deserves  wall  protection, 
as  it  is  a  trifle  tender  and  too  valuable  to  pass  by  unnoticed.  Its  large 
heads  of  white  flowers  are  very  beautiful,  and  a  good-sized,  well-grown 
plant  at  flowering  time  is  strikingly  handsome.  It  is  an  admirable  shrub 
for  greenhouse  decoration  during  early  spring.  V.  acerifolium,  an  old 
inhabitant  of  our  gardens,  bears  an  abundance  of  white  flowers  in  spring 
and  richly-coloured  berries  in  autumn,  at  which  time  its  tinted  foliage 
is  very  bright  and  distinct.  It  seldom  grows  more  than  five  feet  or  six 
feet  high.  The  well-known  Laurustinus  (V.  Tinus)  is  an  evergreen  shrub 
of  bushy  habit,  with  small  pleasing  green  leaves ;  and  in  winter,  when 
bearing  its  wealth  of  pinkish-white  flowers,  is  welcome  in  the  border. 


260  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

Plants  lifted  in  autumn  and  put  into  pots  flower  naturally  towards 
Christmas,  on  which  account  they  are  most  useful  for  the  greenhouse. 
The  variety  lucidum,  which  bears  large  clusters  of  pure  white  flowers, 
and  purpureum,  with  its  dark  leaves,  are  worthy  of  mention.  The  wild 
Guelder  Rose  or  Water  Elder  (V.  Opulus)  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  of 
all  shrubs,  native  or  otherwise.  Though  the  Guelder  Rose  is  more  showy 
than  the  Water  Elder  when  it  is  in  flower,  it  lacks  the  autumn  beauty  of 
the  wild  plant  when  it  is  loaded  with  the  bunches  of  brilliant  red  berries. 
The  native  plant  grows  by  the  sides  of  streams  and  ditches  in  a  strong 
alluvial  soil,  where  it  is  often  a  shrub  of  rather  rank  growth  and  straggling 
habit ;  transplanted  into  drier  garden  ground  it  becomes  a  neater  bush, 
and  most  seasons  its  wealth  of  berry  makes  it  one  of  the  best  things  in 
the  September  garden.  It  is  a  bush  to  plant  by  the  lake  side.  The  leaf 
begins  to  colour  at  the  same  time  as  the  berry,  and  by  the  end  of  the  month 
is  a  glory  of  rich  crimson.  The  new  species  V.  rhytidophyllum,  V.  utile, 
and  V.  Carlesii  should  all  be  grown.  The  first  is  remarkable  for  its  large, 
handsome,  evergreen  leaves,  flattened  heads  of  cream-coloured  flowers, 
and  red  and  black  fruits  ;  the  second  is  a  very  showy  flowering  shrub, 
whilst  the  last-named  bears  rounded  heads  of  white,  pink-tinted  flowers 
which  are  deliciously  fragrant. 

Vincas. — The  Periwinkles  are  trailing  evergreen  shrubs,  and  succeed 
in  dry  as  well  as  in  moist  soil.  For  planting  under  the  shade  and  drip 
of  large  trees  they  are  used  largely  with  considerable  success.  They  can 
also  be  relied  upon  for  clothing  sandy  banks  and  rooteries.  V.  major 
spreads  quickly,  its  polished  green  leaves  are  pretty,  and  in  May  and 
June  its  rich  blue  flowers  are  borne  freely.  Of  this  there  is  a 
variegated  form  with  showy  leaves,  and  quite  as  hardy  as  the  type. 
The  small-leaved  Periwinkle  (V.  minor  and  its  varieties)  are  not  so 
vigorous  as  either  of  the  last-named;  they  are,  however,  attractive, 
neat-growing  trailers.  Propagation  may  be  carried  on  by  division  or 
by  cuttings. 

Xanthoceras  sorbifolia  is  a  Chinese  shrub  with  deciduous  pinnate, 
bright-green  leaves ;  it  grows  about  fifteen  feet  high  when  suitably 
placed.  Its  cream-white  flowers,  stained  with  red  in  the  centre,  appear 
in  profusion  in  racemes  just  as  the  leaves  are  beginning  to  unfold.  A 
sheltered  position  and  fairly  rich  soil  encourage  the  best  growths.  In 
cold  localities  it  should  be  grown  against  a  wall. 

Yuccas. — These  are  amongst  the  most  handsome  of  ornamental 
evergreen  hardy  shrubs  for  general  outdoor  planting.  They  are  quite 
at  home  in  the  shrubbery  border,  and  add  colour  and  effect  to  the  flower- 
garden,  and  for  planting  on  the  outskirts  of  the  lawn,  as  well  as  for  sunny 
banks  and  the  rock-garden,  few  evergreen  things  create  more  beautiful 
effects.  For  winter  bedding,  too,  they  are  a  success.  They  do  not  re- 
quire special  culture,  ordinarily  well-drained  soil  suiting  them  admirably. 
They  are  not,  however,  partial  to  wind-swept  positions.  Y.  gloriosa 
(Adam's  Needle)  is  of  strong  growth,  hardy,  with  broad,  long,  sharply- 
pointed  stiff  leaves  and  whitish  bell-shaped  flowers,  borne  on  large  stout 
spikes.  Y.  recurvifolia,  sometimes  met  with  as  Y.  pendula,  is  of  distinct 


GOOD   TREES  AND   SHRUBS  261 

habit.  It  is  free  in  growth,  with  broad  deep-green  arching  leaves  ;  an 
excellent  plant  for  winter  bedding.  Y .  filamentosa,  the  North  American 
Silk  Grass,  is  a  beautiful  species,  nearly  stemless,  with  long,  narrow,  rich 
green  leaves,  conspicuous  for  the  numerous  thread-like  appendages  along 
the  margins.  Of  this  there  is  a  distinct  and  pretty  form  with  cream- 
coloured  variegation  ;  but  it  is  only  when  planted  in  a  warm,  rather  dry 
soil  that  the  true  leaf  colour  is  revealed.  Y.  angustifolia  is  another 
narrow-leaved  sort  of  much  beauty  i 

Zenobias. — Two  kinds  of  Zenobias  are  found  in  gardens,  viz.  Z. 
speciosa,  and  its  variety  pulverulenta.  [Of  the  two  the  last-named  is 
decidedly  the  best,  as  it  is  quite  as  hardy  as  the  type,  and  produces  an 
abundance  of  snow-white,  drooping,  bell-shaped  flowers  in  axillary 
clusters.  It  forms  a  much-branched  shrub  four  feet  high,  and  the  under 
sides  of  its  leaves  and  stems  are  powdered  with  white.  The  flowers  of 
the  type  (speciosa},  formerly  known  as  Andromeda  cassinefolia,  are 
smaller,  and  produced  a  week  or  so  after  those  of  the  variety  referred  to 
above.  Although  peaty  soil  is  usually  considered  necessary  for  these 
charming  Heathworts,  one  composed  of  loam  and  leaf-mould  suits  them 
admirably,  provided  the  drainage  is  good  and  lime  is  not  present  in  the 
soil.  They  are  sub-evergreen.  Seed  ripens  freely  in  this  country,  from 
which  plants  may  be  raised  in  quantity.  Sow  in  fine  soil  in  shallow 
pans  or  boxes,  and,  as  the  seed  is  very  small,  be  careful  not  to  bury 
it  too  deeply.  With  the  variety  pulverulenta,  cuttings  or  layers 
answer  best. 

Mistletoe. — There  is  something  strangely  attractive  about  this 
plant,  something  mysterious  that  arouses  the  imagination.  It  is  attrac- 
tive, and  yet,  at  the  same  time,  slightly  repellent,  for  it  has  somewhat 
of  a  vampire  nature  in  that  it  sucks  out  and  lives  upon  the  life-blood  of 
some  honest  tree.  Moreover,  it  is  both  ugly  and  pleasant  to  see,  for  it 
hangs  in  rather  ungainly  bunches  and  masses,  and  yet  is  beautiful  in 
detail.  In  form  it  is  so  simply  constructed  that  it  gives  one  the  im- 
pression of  being  low  in  the  scale  of  vegetable  creation.  It  is  built 
almost  as  simply  as  a  scant  weed,  but  there  is  a  rare  and  strange  kind  of 
beauty  in  the  individual  twigs,  and  especially  in  the  relation  of  colour 
between  the  golden  green  leaf  and  the  pearl  white  berry.  The  trees  it 
most  frequents  are  Lime,  Apple,  Poplar,  Thorn,  and  Mountain  Ash. 
The  seed  can  be  sown  by  fixing  the  berry  either  in  an  artificial  slit,  or  a 
crack  in  the  bark  of  any  likely  tree,  preferably  on  the  under  side  of  a 
branch,  and  place  a  little  strip  of  linen  over  for  a  time  to  prevent  birds 
eating  the  seed.  Such  sowings  are  often  ineffectual,  because  the  seed  is 
used  before  it  is  ripe.  It  is  no  use  taking  it  from  boughs  and  sowing  about 
Christmas  time,  for  the  seed  is  not  ripe  till  quite  two  months  later. 
Mistletoe  abounds  in  some  English  west  country  orchards,  but  is  in  still 
greater  profusion  in  those  of  Brittany. 


262  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


BEAUTIFUL   CRAB-APPLES 

The  Crabs  are  among  the  most  picturesque  and  beautiful 
of  trees  for  the  orchard  garden  and  lawn,  and  there  are  many 
kinds  to  select  from  :  John  Downie,  brilliant,  with  crimson 
fruits  in  autumn ;  the  Dartmouth,  Siberian,  and  many  others, 
all  shapely  trees  for  the  outskirts  of  the  lawn.  Mr.  Bunyard 
of  Maidstone  writes  :  "  We  find  that  the  Dartmouth  and  John 
Downie  make  admirable  bushes  on  the  Paradise  stock,  and 
they  require  but  little  pruning  when  once  the  trees  are 
shaped,  as  the  festoons  of  elegant  fruit  appear  to  the  best 
advantage  on  the  two  years'  shoots.  To  take  the  Siberian  or 
Cherry  Apple  race  first,  we  have  the  Scarlet  Siberian,  which 
is  the  best  known.  This  forms  a  pretty,  open  tree,  but  is 
liable  to  mildew  in  the  foliage,  and  thus  looks  rather  bare  at 
times,  but  this  enables  the  thickly-set  fruit  in  branches  to 
appear  to  advantage,  and  very  handsome  they  look  in  the 
months  of  August  and  September.  There  is  one  of  great 
beauty,  wonderfully  free  in  bearing,  sent  out  by  Cheal  &  Sons 
under  the  name  of  Scarlet  Crab.  The  fruit  is  smaller  than 
the  Siberian,  but  very  thickly  set  on  the  branches,  and  the 
colour  is  intense  and  striking.  The  tree  is  more  upright  than 
the  Siberian,  with  ample  foliage.  We  consider  it  a  great 
addition.  The  yellow  Siberian  has  rather  larger  fruit  than 
the  type,  and,  as  a  contrast,  is  well  worth  culture.  John 
Downie  has  more  the  growth  of  an  apple,  sturdy,  with  ample 
foliage,  and  its  fruit  is  oval  and  produced  in  festoons,  which 
give  it  a  striking  appearance.  It  is  larger  than  the  Siberians, 
and  of  an  intensely  bright  scarlet  on  the  sunny  side,  and 
orange  on  the  shaded  positions.  As  a  decorative  tree  it  stands 
in  the  front  rank,  and  its  fruit  is  also  useful  for  table  decora- 
tions and  harvest  festivals. 

"  The  Orange  Crab  is  a  very  pretty  pale  yellow  fruit,  larger 
than  the  Siberian,  and  more  like  a  cherry  in  shape.  To  come 
to  the  larger  fruited  kinds,  the  Fairy  Apple  makes  a  splendid 
garden  bush,  and  fruits  very  freely  on  the  Paradise  stock ;  its 
fruit  is  lemon-coloured  with  pink  flesh,  and  of  a  crab  shape." 
Mr.  Bunyard  then  alludes  to  the  beauty  of  the  Mammoth  and 
Montreal  Crab  and  Transcendent  Crab  from  America,  and 
the  old  English  transparent  Crab.  "  The  most  beautiful  of  all 
is  the  Hyslop  or  Dartmouth  Crab  from  America ;  this  gives 
plum-like  fruit  of  a  mulberry  crimson  colour,  and  carries  a 
rich  bloom,  so  that  it  is  often  taken  for  a  plum.  It  is  a  splendid 


BEAUTIFUL   CRAB-APPLES  263 

sort  for  decoration,  grows  freely,  and  produces  a  heavy  crop. 
The  whole  of  these  are  beautiful  in  flower  in  May,  and  their 
double  claims  of  flower  and  fruit  commend  them  to  all 
planters.  But  they  have  a  third  virtue — they  make  most 
delicious  jellies  and  jams  when  the  seeds  and  carpels  are 
removed,  the  best  plan  being  to  squeeze  the  pulp  through  a 
cheese  cloth.  When  slightly  sweetened  they  form  a  fine 
sweet  sauce  for  game,  and  when  well  sweetened  a  very  much 
relished  conserve,  while  in  syrup  they  are  sweetmeats  of  the 
first  class." 


HOW   TO   ARRANGE   ORNAMENTAL 
TREES   AND    SHRUBS 


NUMEROUS  trees  and  shrubs  of  a  deciduous  and  evergreen 
character  are  conspicuous  by  reason  of  their  coloured  foliage. 
Unlike  flowers,  fruits  or  the  autumn  tints,  which  are  all  more 
or  less  of  short  duration,  trees  and  shrubs  with  coloured 
foliage  last  in  good  condition  for  a  long  time,  the  deciduous 
ones  throughout  the  summer  and  the  evergreens  the  whole 
year  round.  In  small  gardens  it  may  be  only  possible  to 
plant  a  few  single  specimens  or  mix  in  a  few  coloured-leaved 
shrubs  with  the  green-leaved  kinds  in  the  shrubbery  border. 
Used  in  this  way  they  are  pretty,  but  the  effect  obtained 
is  nothing  approaching  their  liberal  employment  in  the 
pleasure  grounds  and  parks  of  large  estates.  Here  large 
groups  or  masses  of  one  kind  may  be  planted  to  form  a 
feature  in  the  landscape,  perhaps  on  sloping  ground  or  by 
the  lakeside. 

A  border  or  large  bed  of  mixed  coloured-foliaged  trees 
and  shrubs  gives  a  charming  picture  from  spring  till  autumn, 
providing  the  grouping  of  the  colours  is  carefully  done.  Fig. 
18  represents  a  plan  of  such  a  border  at  Kew,  120  feet  long 
and  40  feet  wide,  and  will  give  readers  an  idea  of  the  grouping. 
At  first  sight  the  plan  appears  to  be  crowded,  but  it  is  quite 
easy  to  go  over  such  a  border  in  March  each  year  and  shorten 
the  long  growths  of  those  which  are  trespassing  into  the  space 
which  should  be  occupied  by  their  neighbours.  In  this  way 
comparatively  large  shrubs,  and  in  some  instances  trees,  are 
kept  trimmed  to  a  moderate  size.  By  cutting  back  the  young 
shoots  of  the  Golden-leaved  Elder,  Sambucus  nigra  foliis 
aureis,  to  within  one  or  two  eyes  of  the  old  wood  each  spring, 
vigorous  young  shoots  push  up,  with  plenty  of  leaves  which 
colour  better  than  those  on  old  wood.  The  subjects  planted 
at  the  back  of  the  bed  illustrated  are  somewhat  shaded  by 
trees  in  the  vicinity,  and  are  planted  with  the  idea  of  furnish- 
ing in  addition  to  colour  effect.  In  front  of  the  bed  there  is 
a  wide  stretch  of  lawn.  The  bed  faces  south  ;  while  behind 

=64 


y<lji> 

'M 


HOW  TO  ARRANGE   TREES  AND  SHRUBS    265 

it,   on   the   north    side,   are    a    number   of   large   trees,   the 
green  leaves  of  which  form  a  useful  and  effective  background. 

While  it  is  possible 
by  using  Hollies,  Yews, 
Box,  conifers  and  other 
evergreens  with  col- 
oured foliage  to  form 
coloured  clumps  which 
are  beautiful  through- 
out the  year,  it  will  be 
found  by  experience 
that  the  foliage  of  de- 
ciduous trees  and 
shrubs  is,  generally 
speaking,  more  brilliant 
in  colouring  than  those 
with  persistent  leaves. 
Those  mentioned  below 
have  brightly-coloured 
foliage,  and  are  very 
suitable  for  the  pur- 
poses referred  to  in 
these  notes. 

Deciduous  Trees. — 
The  Golden  Maple, 
Acer  Negundo  calif or- 
nica  aurea;  Variegated 
Maple,  Acer  Negundo 
variegata;  Go  Id  en - 
leaved  Indian  Bean, 
Cat  alp  a  bignonioides 
aurea  ;  Yellow  -  leaved 
Thorn,  Cratcegus  Oxy- 
acantha  aurea;  Purple- 
leaved  Beech,  Fagus 

sylvatica    purpurea;  \s£&!  sg   --  S*P      3* 

Golden-leaved    Labur-  W\J||||    4i 

num,  Laburnum  vulgare  xtOoH  <«*  \-iIIV 

foliis  aureis ;  Purple 
Myrobalan,  Prunus  Pis- 
sardii  (P.  cerasifera  at- 
ropurpurea)\  Moser's  Purple  Plum,  Prunus  Moseriflore  pleno 
Purple-leaved  Peach,  Prunus  per sica  purpurea  ;  Golden-leaved 
Oak,  Quercus  pedunculata  Concordia ;  Golden-leaved  American 
Oak,  Quercus  rubra  aurea;  Purple-leaved  Oak,  Quercus pedun- 


266  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

culata  purpurea;  Golden  Elm,  Ulmus  antarctica  aurea ;  Varie- 
gated Elm,  Ulmus  montana  variegata ;  and  Van  Houtte's 
Golden  Elm,  Ulmus  Louis  Van  Houtte. 

Deciduous  Shrubs. — Japanese  Maples,  Acerjaponica  aurea 
and  A.  palmatum  varieties  ;  Purple  Barberry,  Berberis  vulgaris 
foliis  purpureis ;  Variegated  Dogwood,  Cornus  alba  sibirica 
variegata;  Spaeth's  Golden  Dogwood,  Cornus  alba  Spaethii ; 
Variegated  Dogwood,  Cornus  controversa  variegata;  Golden- 
leaved  Nut,  Corylus  avellana  aurea  ;  Purple-leaved  Nut,  Corylus 
maxima  atropurpurea ;  Golden  Privet,  Ligustrum  ovalifolium 
foliis  aureis  ;  Variegated  Privet,  Ligustrum  lucldum  aurea  varie- 
gatum;  Golden  Elder,  Sambucus  nigra  foliis  aureis ;  and  Varie- 
gated Snowberry,  Symphoricarpus  orbiculatus  variegatus. 

Evergreen  Shrubs. — Gold  and  Silver  Hollies,  Ilex  Aqui- 
folium  varieties  ;  Variegated  Box,  Buxus  sempervirens  varieties; 
Golden  Euonymus,  Euonymus  japonuus  varieties  ;  Variegated 
T£\?e?igi\us,El(zaganuspungens  varieties;  Lavender  Cotton,  San- 
tolina  Chamcecyparissus ;  Lavender,  Lavandula  spica;  United 
States  Sage  Bush,  Artemisia  tridentata;  Tree  Purslane,  Atri- 
plex  Halimus ;  several  Tree  Ivies,  Hedera  Helix  varieties  ;  and 
numerous  conifers,  especially  varieties  of  Cupressus. 


PRUNING  HARDY  FLOWERING    SHRUBS 


MANY  readers  of  this  book  have  written  to  me  about  the 
pruning  of  hardy  flowering  shrubs,  and  asking  for  a  few  notes 
to  guide  them  in  an  operation  of  which  they  are  wholly  igno- 
rant. Pruning  generally  seems  to  be  a  rock  upon  which  many 
beginners  come  to  grief,  and  one  is  surprised  to  find  that  even 
with  instructions  as  clearly  and  simply  expressed  as  possible, 
the  subject  is  little  understood.  Hardy  flowering  shrubs  are 
in  most  gardens  either  left  to  themselves  completely  or  sub- 
jected to  a  pruning  that  would  be  more  appropriate  to  a  Grape 
Vine,  viz.  a  hard  and  indiscriminate  cutting  back,  with  the 
result  of  an  absence  of  flowers  the  following  year.  Pruning 
often  signifies  a  flowerless  time  in  the  following  year,  for  the 
reason  that  growths  that  produce  blossom  are  removed  through 
ignorance  of  their  blossom-bearing  capacity.  The  shrubberies 
of  a  former  age  were  quite  different  to  the  free  grouping  of 
beautiful  shrubs  and  small  trees  that  add  grace  and  beauty 
to  the  English  garden.  The  old  shrubbery  was  a  choke- 
muddle  receptacle  for  many  things  or  a  few  things  of  small 
interest — Privet,  Conifers,  and  the  like,  but  of  Conifers  in  par- 
ticular, a  race  of  shrubs  at  that  period  in  high  favour  with 
rich  and  poor,  with  unfortunate  results,  as  few  Conifers  will 
live  with  comfort  near  large  towns. 

It  is  the  rule  rather  than  the  exception  to  find  in  gardens 
a  collection  of  beautiful  flowering  shrubs  composed  of  the 
fragrant  Mock  Oranges,  the  Lilacs,  Brooms,  Rhododendrons, 
and  the  many  other  species  and  varieties  noticed  in  the  special 
chapter  devoted  to  these  in  this  book.  All  these  require  judi- 
cious treatment,  and  this  given  will  be  repaid  a  thousand-fold 
in  a  freer  and  more  lasting  flower  display.  Flowering  shrubs 
must  be,  so  to  speak,  "  cultivated,"  and  by  this  is  meant  keep- 
ing the  ground  clean,  restricting  the  too  vigorous  growths  of 
neighbouring  things,  and  giving  an  annual  pruning.  Someone 
will  say,  "  Well,  I  know  all  that ;  but  when  is  the  time  to 
prune  ?  "  This  is  one  of  the  most  important  details  of  all,  as 
every  race  of  shrubs  requires  in  a  large  degree  different 

treatment  to  others,  some  needing  attention  in  late  winter, 

267 


268  GARDENING   FOR  BEGINNERS 

others  in  early  spring ;  whilst  those  flowering  on  the  pre- 
vious year's  wood  must  remain  until  the  blossoming  time  has 
passed. 

Four  forms  of  pruning  are  desirable,  i.e.  shortening  of 
the  branches,  disbudding,  the  removal  of  seed  heads,  and 
root  pruning.  The  object  is  the  same  in  all  cases,  namely, 
to  encourage  shoots  to  give  the  best  flowers.  In  some  in- 
stances, one,  for  example,  where  a  few  branches  only  are 
made,  the  result  is  obtained  by  the  first  method ;  in  others, 
where  the  shoots  are  many  in  number,  it  is  needful  to  reduce 
the  number  considerably  to  allow  light  and  air  free  access  to 
the  wood  for  the  purpose  of  thorough  ripening.  In  other 
cases,  such  as  the  Rhododendron,  superfluous  buds  and  old 
flower-heads  must  be  removed,  and  where  rank  shoots  are 
made  at  the  expense  of  flowers,  prune  the  roots. 

When  pruning  use  a  very  sharp  knife.  Leave  no  jagged 
cuts,  but  cut  all  wounds  perfectly  clean,  and  no  snags  should 
be  left ;  but  cut  the  shoots  to  the  base.  After  pruning,  all 
wounds  of  any  importance  must  be  dressed  at  once  with  coal- 
tar  to  prevent  evil  results  until  they  are  quite  healed  over. 
Among  the  many  families  of  shrubs  in  our  gardens,  the  follow- 
ing have  been  selected  to  treat  separately  as  representative  of 
the  others. 

Ceanothus. — Although  very  few  species  of  Ceanothus  are 
grown,  they  need  to  be  pruned  at  various  times  of  the  year. 
In  the  case  of  C.  azureus,  C.  americanus,  and  the  many  beautiful 
garden  varieties,  they  should  be  pruned  in  spring.  This  prun- 
ing should  consist  in  thinning  out  the  shoots  and  shortening 
those  that  are  left.  It  is  often  desirable  to  spur  them  back  to 
two  or  three  eyes.  All  the  above-mentioned  flower  in  summer 
and  autumn  on  young  wood.  On  the  other  hand,  C.  divari- 
catus,  C.  papillosus,  C.  rigzdus,  and  C.  veitchianus  flower  in 
spring  on  the  previous  year's  wood,  and  require  pruning  after 
the  flowers  are  over.  Generally  the  shoots  do  not  require 
spurring  back ;  it  is  only  necessary  to  thin  out  and  shorten 
the  growths. 

Cytisus  and  Genista. — These  families  are  so  much  alike 
that  they  can  be  considered  in  the  same  paragraph.  As  in  the 
case  of  the  Ceanothuses,  there  are  two  distinct  sets,  one  that 
flowers  on  the  old  wood,  and  the  other  upon  young  shoots. 
To  the  former  group  belong  C.  albus,  C.  biflorus^  C.  prcecox, 
C.  purgans,  and  C.  Scoparius  (the  common  Broom),  and  of  the 
last-mentioned  group,  G.  nigricans,  G.  tinctoria  and  their 
varieties  are  types.  After  the  flowers  are  over,  the  first- 
named  group  should  be  thinned  and  pruned  into  shape ; 


PRUNING   HARDY   FLOWERING   SHRUBS     269 

whilst  cut  the  latter  set  fairly  hard  back  in  the  spring  just 
before  growth  commences.  Branches  of  these  shrubs  should 
never  be  cut  back  into  beyond  the  two-year-old  wood  or  they 
will  not  break  well.  It  is  wiser  to  confine  pruning  to  one-year- 
old  shoots.  Two  notable  exceptions  to  pruning  are  G.  atnensis 
and  G.  virgata.  Except  when  young,  these  require  little 
or  no  pruning,  and  a  much  longer  time  elapses  before  they 
reach  maturity.  Remember  also  that  most  of  the  species 
must  be  renewed  every  few  years. 

Philadelphia  (Mock  Orange]. — A  few  years  ago  it  was  a 
common  belief  that  to  prune  the  Mock  Orange  was  to  destroy 
the  promise  of  flowers.  Experience  has,  however,  proved 
otherwise  ;  the  method  has  been  at  fault.  Shortening  back  of 
the  branches  was  practised,  whereas  thinning  is  the  correct 
treatment,  especially  in  the  case  of  the  dwarf  P.  Lemoinei 
group,  which  are  becoming  popular  in  all  gardens,  especially 
those  of  small  size.  When  the  flowers  of  this  group  are  over, 
remove  all  old  flowering  wood,  that  is,  wood  upon  which 
flowers  have  been  borne,  to  strong  young  shoots,  leaving  only 
sufficient  to  form  a  shapely  bush.  The  result  will  be,  during 
summer  strong  shoots  three  feet  long,  which  will  ripen  well 
in  autumn,  and  flower  profusely  during  the  following  June. 
By  merely  shortening  the  shoots  without  thinning,  or  by 
leaving  the  plants  alone,  bushes  four  years  or  five  years  old 
have  become  thickets  of  growth  to  the  loss  of  all  natural  grace 
and  beauty.  The  taller  growing  shrubs  may  also  be  thinned 
after  flowering. 

Syringa  (Lilac). — Lilacs  are  rarely  attended  to  in  any  way. 
They  are  permitted  to  remain  undisturbed  for  a  generation, 
with  the  unhappy  result  that  the  shoots  get  sadly  entangled 
and  poor.  The  soil  is  full  of  suckers,  and  the  result  of  all  this 
unnecessary  development  is  a  few  scattered  flowers  which 
betray  an  exhausted  soil  and  growth.  Lilacs  should  be  free 
from  suckers  and  possess  well-developed  heads  of  sturdy 
branches.  Go  over  the  bushes  several  times  in  early  summer 
and  reduce  the  number  of  shoots,  leaving  only  those  that  are 
strong  and  well  placed.  Through  this  removal  of  superfluous 
shoots  increased  strength  is  given  to  the  flower  buds,  and 
more  light  and  air  admitted  to  the  branches.  Naturally  the 
flower  branches  are  larger,  more  numerous,  of  better  colour, 
and  richer  in  fragrance. 

Forsythia. — It  is  possible  to  have  a  glorious  display  of  this 
yellow  flower,  a  raining  down  of  golden  blossom,  without  any 
pruning  whatever,  but  the  display  is  much  richer  when  judi- 
cious pruning  is  given.  Prune  directly  the  flowers  are  over, 


270  GARDENING  FOR   BEGINNERS 

and  spur  last  year's  wood  back  to  within  a  few  eyes  of  the 
old  wood.  In  this  way  F.  suspensa  makes  strong  shoots  4  feet 
to  5  feet  long,  which  flower  from  base  to  summit.  F.  viridis- 
sima  and  F.  intermedia  should  be  treated  in  the  same  way. 

Prunus. — The  method  of  pruning  practised  for  the  Plums 
we  use  for  the  dessert  and  kitchen  is  suitable  for  most  of  the 
ornamental  species  and  varieties.  There  are,  however,  one  or 
two  exceptions.  P.  japonica,  flore  pleno,  is  improved  by  an 
occasional  hard  cutting  back.  This  gets  rid  of  old  worn-out 
flowering  wood  and  encourages  strong  shoots,  which  flower 
with  great  freedom.  After  flowering  spur  the  shoots  back,  and 
prune  severely  once  in  every  five  years.  P.  tribola,  when 
grown  on  a  wall,  should  be  spurred  back  after  flowering,  and 
long  strong  shoots  encouraged. 

Spiraea. — In  this  family  the  chief  point  to  attend  to  is 
thinning.  Most  of  the  species  grow  naturally  into  dense 
bushes,  many  of  the  inner  shoots  being  unable  to  develop 
through  want  of  space  and  light.  These  shoots  should  be 
removed  to  the  ground  line,  leaving  only  sufficient  to  form  a 
well-balanced  shrub.  In  the  S.japonica  group  more  pruning 
is  necessary.  The  flowers  are  borne  in  large  heads  on  strong, 
soft  shoots  of  the  current  season's  growth,  consequently  in 
addition  to  well  thinning-out  the  plants,  the  flowering  shoots 
of  last  year  should  be  shortened  to  about  half  their  length,  as 
by  this  means  stronger  shoots  are  made  than  if  no  shortening 
is  practised.  Strong  wood  signifies  also  a  greater  wealth  of 
finer  flowers.  Those  who  possess  v9.  arguta  should  peg  some 
of  the  shoots  to  the  ground  when  thinning  out,  as  a  more 
effective  display  results.  The  double-flowered  S.  prunifolia 
may  be  cut  back  after  flowering  to  strong  back  shoots. 

Rubus. — Whether  grown  for  their  flowers,  fruit,  or  winter 
effect  given  by  the  coloured  stems  of  some  species,  all  are 
benefited  by  an  annual  removal  of  old  wood  as  soon  as  flowers 
and  fruit  are  over.  The  effect  of  a  group  of  the  beautiful 
R.  deliciosus  is  quite  spoiled  when  the  old  wood  is  left  year 
after  year  until  it  becomes  a  choked  muddle  of  dead  wood, 
with  here  and  there  a  patch  of  living  growth.  By  pruning  the 
shrub  is  kept  light  and  graceful,  and  it  has  a  longer  existence 
through  this  timely  attention. 

Pyrus. — Many  are  the  beautiful  Apple  trees  for  lawn  and 
pleasure  grounds.  The  Dartmouth,  Fairy,  and  Siberian  and 
other  Crabs.  All  these  need  similar  treatment  to  the  Apple 
tree  of  the  orchard. 

Rose. — Sufficient  is  written  about  Rose-pruning  on  pages 
71-73  to  satisfy  the  ordinary  rosarian. 


PRUNING   HARDY   FLOWERING   SHRUBS     271 

Rhododendrons  and  other  members  of  the  Erica  or  Heath 
tribe  are  greatly  improved  by  careful  thinning  of  the  buds 
when  an  unusually  heavy  flower  display  is  promised,  and 
also  by  removing  all  flower  heads  as  soon  as  the  flowers  are 
over. 

Hydrangea  paniculata  and  p.  grandiflora  should  be  spurred 
to  within  an  eye  or  two  of  the  old  wood  in  March,  and  the 
young  shoots  which  follow  should  be  thinned  to  ten  or  twelve 
to  each  plant  if  large  flower  heads  are  desired.  Deutzias, 
Viburnums,  Cornus,  Loniceras,  Berberis,  &c.,  are  all  improved 
by  thinning  of  the  shoots,  and  the  same  may  be  written  of 
almost  all  shrubs.  By  spurring  back 

Wistarias,  free-flowering  bushes  are  obtained,  and  in  the 
case  of 

Pyrus  japonica,  by  thinning  only. 

Magnolias  rank  amongst  the  fe'w  shrubs  and  trees  which 
require  little  or  no  pruning.  They  dislike  intensely  interfer- 
ence at  root  and  branch,  consequently  disturb  them  as  little 
as  possible.  The  time  to  prune  when  any  is  required  is  in 
summer. 

Such  shrubs  as  the  coloured-stemmed  Willows  and  .Cornus 
(Dogwood)  are  improved  by  hard  pruning,  the  colour  upon 
one-year-old  shoots  being  richer  than  on  older  growths.  It  is, 
however,  unwise  to  cut  back  very  old  Cornuses  ;  the  better 
plan  is  to  plant  young  ones,  and  prune  from  the  beginning. 
Some  coloured-foliage  shrubs,  such  as  the  Golden  Elder,  are 
improved  by  an  annual  cutting  back,  the  colour  of  the  leaves 
being  finer  on  young,  strong  shoots  than  on  old  wood. 

Root-pruning. — This  is  necessary  when  too  much  wood  is 
being  made.  It  is  a  frequent  task  in  the  orchard,  and  should 
be  performed  when  leaves  are  made  at  the  expense  of  flowers. 
Growth  can  be  curtailed  and  the  desired  object  attained  by 
lifting  and  replanting.  If  this  is  impossible,  make  a  trench 
round  the  plant  and  remove  some  of  the  strongest  roots. 


HARDY   CLIMBING   PLANTS 


MANY  of  the  prettiest  pictures  in  the  garden  are  those 
in  which  climbing  plants  play  a  large  part.  The  Rose,  of 
course,  is  queen  of  climbers,  but  as  useful  in  their  way  are 
the  Clematises,  Honeysuckles,  Jasmines,  Vines,  Wistarias,  and 
others. 

Ampelopsis.    See  Vitis. 

Aristolochia  Sipho,  commonly  known  as  the  Dutchman's  Pipe 
from  the  shape  of  its  drooping  yellow-brown  flowers  with  their  upturned 
ends,  though  not  conspicuous  for  its  blossoms,  is  a  handsome  plant, 
soon  covering  a  wall  with  its  large  heart-shaped  leaves.  It  is  a  decidu- 
ous climber,  and  may  be  propagated  by  seed.  Does  best  in  sandy  loam. 

Azara  microphylla  is  not  very  hardy,  but  sufficiently  so  for 
southern  counties.  Its  glossy  green  leaves,  hiding  wiry  spreading  stems, 
are  very  handsome.  Needs  well-drained  loam. 

Berberidopsis  COrallina  (The  Coral  Barberry),  from  Chili,  is  a  pretty 
evergreen  for  planting  against  a  wall,  but  it  is  rather  tender  and  apt 
to  suffer  from  frost  unless  slight  protection  can  be  given.  Planted  in 
well-drained  loam,  its  glossy  green,  prickly  leaves  are  not  only  distinct 
but  ornamental,  and  its  numerous  drooping,  coral-red,  Berberis-like 
flowers,  borne  in  the  axils  of  the  leaves,  remain  attractive  for  a  consider- 
able part  of  the  summer.  It  delights  in  a  somewhat  shady  position. 

Bignonia  capreolata  is  a  free  grower  and  climber  introduced  from 
America  nearly  two  hundred  years  ago,  and  hardy  only  in  sheltered 
quarters.  For  training  against  a  warm  wall,  or  for  clothing  rafters  in 
unheated  greenhouses  it  is  well  adapted,  and  in  such  positions  its  orange- 
coloured  trumpet-shaped  flowers  are  seen  to  perfection.  It  should  be 
planted  in  rich  soil,  and  as  it  delights  in  copious  supplies  of  water  in  the 
early  part  of  the  growing  season,  efficient  drainage  should  be  provided 
to  carry  off  superfluous  water,  and  thus  help  to  keep  the  roots  healthy 
and  the  soil  from  getting  sour. 

Calystegia  pubescens  flore  pleno  is  usually  called  a  Convolvulus, 
and  is  now  grouped  with  that  family.  It  does  not  grow  tall,  but  is 
pretty  for  arbours  and  screens,  and  will  thrive  in  any  soil. 

Gelastrus  articulatUS  is  a  free-growing  Japanese  twiner,  and  con- 
spicuous for  its  brightly-coloured  berries  in  winter ;  they  are  displayed 
upon  the  leafless  branches  in  great  profusion.  Excellent  for  clothing 

arbours,  tree  stumps,  verandahs,  &c.    C.  scandens  (Staff  Vine)  is  another 

272 


CLEMATIS   OVER    GARDEN   ARCH. 


HARDY   CLIMBING   PLANTS  273 

rapid-growing  climber,  and  a  distinct  autumn  and  winter  shrub.*  It 
loves  a  cool  soil. 

Chimonanthus  fragrans.— This  is  hardly  a  climbing  plant;  it 
is  more  one  of  those  deciduous  shrubby  things  that  one  puts  against 
a  wall  for  the  sake  of  its  flowers  or  leaves.  The  Chimonanthus  is 
called  the  "  winter  sweet "  because  of  the  sweet  spicy  perfume  of  its 
flowers  in  winter ;  their  lemon-yellow  colour  is  very  quiet,  but  their 
fragrance  is  perceptible  for  many  yards  away.  The  way  to  increase  it 
is  by  seed,  suckers,  and  layers.  Suckers  become  established  with  moder- 
ate rapidity  when  detached  with  a  few  roots  from  the  parent  plant.  When 
layering  choose  the  strong  shoots  from  the  base  of  the  plant ;  they  should 
be  put  down  in  autumn  or  after  flowering.  Cut  each  shoot  halfway 
through  on  the  underside,  pegging  it  firmly  in  the  soil,  and  keeping  the 
cut  part  open.  Cover  over  with  soil  and  leave  the  layers  for  a  year. 
Layering  is  the  method  of  propagation  we  advise.  The  shrub  must  be 
carefully  pruned.  Cut  the  shoots  back  in  spring  to  within  about  four 
inches  of  the  main  branches.  Upon  the  new  growths  from  these  shoots 
the  flowers  appear.  Grandiflorus  has  larger  flowers  than  the  type.  Good 
loamy  soil  suits  it  best. 

Clematis. — In  almost  every  garden  there  is  a  Clematis,  as  a  rule 
the  rich,  purple-flowered  C.  Jackmani.  The  majority  of  the  Clematises 
are  quite  hardy,  and  the  best  known  are 

Clematis  balearica,  which  bears  yellowish-white  flowers,  spotted 
with  purple  in  the  interior,  about  two  inches  in  diameter.  In  the  south 
of  England  it  often  commences  to  flower  as  early  as  January.  C.  coccinea 
bears  scarlet,  bell-shaped  flowers.  Several  hybrids  of  this  Clematis  have 
lately  been  raised  which  are  valuable  for  the  greenhouse.  C.  Flammula 
(the  Virgin's  Bower),  perhaps  the  commonest  of  the  family — with  the 
exception  of  C.  Vitalba,  the  Traveller's  Joy  or  Old  Man's  Beard,  which 
grows  wild  in  our  hedgerows — bears  small,  white,  scented  flowers  in  great 
profusion  during  the  month  of  August,  and  is  useful  for  covering  trellises, 
archways,  and  arbours.  C.  florida. — The  type  of  this  species  bears  large 
white  flowers.  Several  varieties  have,  however,  been  raised  by  nursery- 
men bearing  both  single  and  double  flowers  of  different  tints,  among  the 
best  of  these  being  Duchess  of  Edinburgh,  double,  white ;  John  Gould 
Veitch,  double,  lavender-blue ;  and  Lucy  Lemoine,  double,  white.  C. 
graveolens  is  a  yellow-flowered  species  from  China,  bears  its  flowers  in 
July,  and  is  a  very  rapid  climber,  the  flowers  being  followed  by  feathery 
seed-vessels.  C.  Jackmani,  a  hybrid,  is  well  known  by  its  large,  purple 
flowers,  and  is  grown  in  almost  every  town  and  village  in  England. 
Some  of  the  best  varieties  of  this  Clematis  are  the  type,  Jackmani  alba, 
white ;  Gipsy  Queen,  velvety-purple ;  rubro  violacea,  maroon ;  and 
velutina  purpurea,  blackish  mulberry.  C.  lanuginosa  bears  the  largest 
flowers  of  any  Clematis,  some  of  these  exceeding  seven  inches  in  diameter. 
Anderson  Henryi  is  the  best  white ;  while  Otto  Frcebel,  pale  lavender- 
white  ;  Fairy  Queen,  flesh-colour  with  pink  stripe ;  La  France,  violet- 
purple  ;  and  the  two  doubles,  Venus  Victrix,  lavender ;  and  Enchan- 
tress, white,  are  also  beautiful  flowers.  C.  montana. — This  is  a  very 

S 


274  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

charming  kind.  It  flowers  in  May  and  June,  and  bears  an  abundance 
of  ivory-white  blooms  two  inches  in  diameter.  It  is  very  vigorous  in 
growth,  and  admirably  adapted  for  rambling  over  old  trees  and  ever- 
greens. The  variety  rubens  has  rose-coloured  flowers,  and  should  find 
a  place  in  every  garden.  C.  paniculata  is  very  similar  to  C.  Flammula, 
but  flowers  a  month  earlier.  C.  patens  bears  large  white  flowers.  Good 
varieties  of  this  Clematis  are  :  Duke  of  Edinburgh,  violet-purple ;  Fair 
Rosamond,  white  ;  Mrs.  Crawshay,  pale  pink  with  bronze  stripe ;  and 
Stella,  pale  violet.  Of  the  large-flowered  Clematises  the  Patens  group  is 
the  earliest  to  bloom,  commencing  in  May.  They  flower  from  the  old  wood. 

The  only  pruning  they  require  is  the  cutting  away  of  dead  wood. 
The  Florida  group  commences  flowering  a  fortnight  or  so  later.  The 
plants  require  the  same  treatment  as  the  Patens  varieties  as  regards 
pruning.  The  Lanuginosa  group  begins  to  bloom  in  June  and  flowers 
on  short  summer  shoots.  Moderate  autumnal  pruning  is  requisite. 
The  Jackmani  group  is  the  last  to  flower,  blooming  from  July  to  October. 
The  plants  flower  on  the  new  wood  and  should  be  cut  down  to  within 
twelve  inches  of  the  ground  during  the  winter. 

Clematises  Dying  Off. — It  is  perplexing  and  disappointing  to  find 
Clematises  dying  off  without  any  special  reason.  Mr.  Jackman,  the 
well-known  raiser  of  Clematises  at  Woking,  in  a  lecture  given  some 
time  ago,  makes  some  useful  observations  as  follows  : — 

"  There  is  no  doubt  that  frost  is  the  cause  of  some  deaths,  and  too 
much  water  and  bad  drainage  others,  but  I  cannot  agree  that  either  of 
these  is  the  sole  cause  of  all  the  losses.  My  experience  is  that  the  plants 
mostly  succumb  during  the  summer  months  when  the  ground  is  driest 
and  the  sun  has  most  power,  and  in  the  majority  of  these  cases  I  could 
not  detect  any  sign  of  the  plants  having  had  too  much  nourishment  or 
water,  or  that  the  drainage  was  bad.  .  .  .  Grafting  also  cannot  be  put 
down  as  the  direct  reason,  as  plants  on  their  own  roots  go  off  in  the  same 
manner. 

"  I  do  not  think,  however,  that  C.  Vitalba,  which  is  so  generally  used 
as  a  stock,  is  entirely  suitable  for  some  of  the  large-flowering  hybrids. 
The  roots  differ  from  those  of  the  latter,  being  of  a  hard,  wiry  char- 
acter, the  hybrids  appearing,  after  they  have  had  sufficient  time  to  get 
established  on  their  own  roots,  to  ignore  the  stock,  which  eventually 
decays.  .  .  . 

"  I  am  of  the  opinion  that  is  mainly  due  to  loss  of  constitution 
through  over-propagation,  which  has  been  brought  about  by  the  great 
popularity  of,  and  consequent  demand  for,  the  hybrids,  and,  being  of  a 
soft,  succulent  nature,  have  responded  only  *oo  freely  to  the  treatment. 
My  other  reasons  for  coming  to  that  conclusion  are,  as  already  men- 
tioned, that  the  plants  mostly  go  off  on  the  hot,  bright  days  of  summer, 
and  in  many  cases  after  having  made  several  feet  of  growth,  and  are 
forming  the  flower-buds,  which  seems  to  me  to  imply  that  they  are 
wanting  in  vital  power,  and  are  unable  to  withstand  the  extra  call  upon 
their  strength^  and  the  extreme  heat.  If  it  is  not  loss  of  constitution, 
why  was  the  '  dying  off '  not  noticed  twenty-five  years  ago,  and  why 


U    4 1 


If 


m  i 


HARDY   CLIMBING   PLANTS  275 

has  it  increased  of  recent  years,  not  only  in  this  country  but  on  the 
Continent,  and  how  is  it  we  do  not  see  the  rampant,  robust  growths  of 
former  years  ?  Again,  it  seems  strange  that  whilst  the  large  hybrids 
have  been  so  badly  affected,  I  have  never  seen  C.  montana,  C.  Flammula, 
C.  Viticella,  or  C.  Vitalba  collapse  in  the  same  manner,  unless  my  con- 
tention is  correct  that  over-propagation  is  the  cause.  I  might  also 
mention  that  I  have  not  yet  seen  signs  of  the  dying  off  amongst  the 
new  hybrids  from  C.  coccinea. 

"As  a  decorative  plant  the  Clematis  is  almost  unequalled.  Few 
climbers  can  surpass  it  for  covering  a  wall  or  porch  of  a  house,  or  train- 
ing over  trellis  work,  commencing  with  C.  montana  early  in  May,  and 
followed  throughout  the  summer  and  autumn  by  the  large  hybrids  of 
the  Patens,  Florida,  Lanuginosa,  Viticella,  and  Jackmani  types.  To 
these  must  be  now  added  the  new  Coccinea  hybrids,  C.  Countess  of 
Onslow,  C.  Duchess  of  Albany,  C.  Duchess  of  York,  C.  Grace  Darling, 
and  C.  Sir  Trevor  Lawrence,  which,  with  those  of  the  last  type,  remain 
in  bloom  till  frost  comes. 

"  The  Clematis  is  also  at  home  planted  out  or  grown  in  pots,  in  the 
conservatory,  cool  greenhouse,  or  glass  corridor,  if  the  situation  is  not 
too  shady  or  confined.  Those  of  the  Patens  or  Florida  types  are  often 
more  appreciated  in  these  positions  than  when  grown  out  of  doors, 
coming  into  bloom  as  they  do  at  a  time  when  flowers  are  somewhat 
scarce,  through  escaping  the  May  frosts  which  sometimes  spoil  those 
growing  outside.  Rambling  up  pillars  and  poles,  over  rootery  or  rock- 
work,  they  are  alike  elegant,  and  when  bedded  out  produce  a  most 
gorgeous  effect ;  but  when  this  is  done  it  is  desirable  that  those  of  the 
Viticella  and  Jackmani  types  should  be  selected  on  account  of  their 
profuse  blooming  properties.  Some  of  the  smaller-flowered  species,  such 
as  C.  Flammula,  C.  graveolens,  C.  montana,  C.  Vitalba,  or  C.  Viticella  are 
also  quite  in  keeping  with  wild  scenery  when  scrambling  over  ruins, 
arbours,  tree  stumps,  banks,  hedges,  and  bushes,  whilst  several  of  the 
herbaceous  and  sub-shrubby  species  and  varieties  are  worthy  of  a  place 
in  any  herbaceous  or  mixed  border." 

Hedera. — This  is  the  well-known  Ivy.  Few  hardy  climbers  or 
creepers  offer  such  a  diversity  in  leaf  formation  and  pleasing  colours  as 
Ivies.  Beginning  with  the  silver-leaved  sorts,  marginata  elegantissima 
should  be  made  note  of.  Hardy,  free  in  growth,  its  light  green  leaves 
flushed  with  white  are  margined  with  cream  white.  Crippsii  is  one  of 
the  showiest  of  the  group,  as  it  is  of  excellent  growth,  and  has  hand- 
some silvery-grey  leaves  and  prominent  veins.  The  silvered  leaves  of 
marginata  rubra  change  to  lovely  shades  of  red  in  winter.  Maderiensis 
is  rather  tender,  and  should  only  be  planted  in  sheltered  spots.  Its 
leaves  are  broad  and  beautifully  variegated  with  silver.  There  are  not 
many  good  yellow-leaved  varieties,  but  chrysomela  is  always  satisfactory, 
provided  it  is  not  planted  in  too  much  shade.  Its  leaves  vary  from 
greenish-yellow  to  rich  yellow.  Spectabilis  aurea  is  also  a  fine  yellow- 
leaved  variety,  and  angularis  aurea  is  far  too  seldom  seen  in  gardens. 
It  is  neat  in  habit  and  very  showy. 


276  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

Green-lectued  Kinds. — Dentata  has  larger  leaves  than  any  other  Ivy, 
is  of  free  growth,  and  very  handsome ;  nigra,  better  known  perhaps  as 
atropurpurea^  is  a  beautiful  variety  for  winter  effect.  It  is  of  quick 
growth,  and  its  bright  green  leaves  change  to  blackish  crimson  in  winter. 
It  is  one  of  the  best  of  the  green-leaved  Ivies.  When  the  winter  Jasmine 
can  get  its  trails  of  yellow  flowers  amongst  this  Ivy,  the  effect  is  very 
charming.  Amurensis,  known  also  as  macrodonta,  is  a  quick-growing  kind 
with  large,  thick  V-shaped  leaves,  deep  green  in  spring,  passing  to  bronzy 
brown  in  winter.  Emerald  Green  is  a  splendid  variety  for  edging  walks, 
as  it  is  of  close,  compact  habit,  with  rich  glossy  green  leaves.  The  Bird's- 
foot  Ivy  (H.  pedata)  is  so  named  on  account  of  its  leaves  resembling  the 
feet  of  a  bird.  They  are  light  green,  with  conspicuous  silvery  veins  ; 
taurica,  himalaica,  and  angularis  are  good  sorts  too. 

Ivies,  Tree. — These  make  excellent  plants  in  pots  for  decorating 
rooms,  &c.,  and  for  winter  bedding  they  are  splendidly  adapted.  H. 
arborea  is  the  well-known  Tree  Ivy,  and  needs  nothing  more  than  passing 
reference.  The  golden-leaved  variety — aurea — is  constant  in  colour  and 
of  free  growth.  The  silver-leaved  form  and  the  yellow-berried  variety 
well  deserve  notice.  We  enjoy  a  group  of  the  Tree  Ivy  with  China  Roses 
planted  amongst  it. 

Jasmines. — Three  kinds  of  Jasmine  prove  good  climbing  plants  in 
England.  The  sweet-scented  Jasmine  (Jasminum  officinale)  that  per- 
fumes the  air  with  its  white  flowers  around  cottage  porches,  its  variety 
affine,  the  yellow-flowered  /.  revolutum,  an  evergreen,  which,  being  a 
native  of  India,  was  formerly  treated  as  a  hothouse  plant,  but  has  proved 
hardy,  and  the  winter-flowering  /.  nudiflorum,  which  bears  sweetly- 
scented  yellow  flowers  along  its  leafless  shoots  in  winter.  Shoots  with 
buds  about  to  open,  placed  in  water  in  the  house,  expand  delightfully. 
It  will  grow  anywhere,  even  in  a  London  garden  ;  it  is  one  of  the  brightest 
and  most  welcome  of  climbing  plants,  and  should  have  a  background  of 
ivy  or  evergreens.  Jasmines,  besides  being  placed  against  walls,  may  be 
allowed  to  ramble  over  old  tree  stumps,  arbours,  pergolas,  or  planted 
in  groups,  say  of  threes,  against  rough,  stout  stakes  put  into  the  ground 
triangular  fashion,  several  feet  from  each  other,  and  the  tops  secured 
with  twine.  The  effect  of  this  at  flowering  time  is  very  pretty.  /. 
fruticans,  from  Southern  Europe,  is  a  neat  evergreen  species,  and  quite 
happy  on  a  shady  lawn.  Its  yellow  flowers  are  succeeded  by  round  black 
berries.  With  regard  to  the  pruning  or  thinning  out  of  the  growths  of 
Jasmines  they  must  not  all  be  pruned  at  the  same  time.  Shorten  the 
growths  of  the  winter-flowering  Jasmine  and  remove  weakly  ones  as 
soon  as  the  flowers  are  over. 

Lonicera  (Honeysuckle). — Of  climbing  sorts  the  evergreen  Trumpet 
Honeysuckles  (Lonicera  sepervirens  vars.)  are  rampant  in  growth  and 
have  showy  flowers  during  summer.  Those  of  the  type  are  scarlet  outside 
and  yellow  in  the  tube.  Plantierensis  is  a  remarkably  fine  hybrid,  with 
larger  flowers  than  those  of  the  last-named.  The  colour  is  bright  orange 
and  scarlet.  Where  variety  is  wanted,  Brownii  and  superbum  may  be 
added.  The  Trumpet  Honeysuckles  should  be  planted  in  a  sheltered 


WISTARIA  MULTIJUGA  GROWING  OVER  A  SPRUCE  FIR  IN  A  BERK- 
SHIRE  GARDEN     (See  Page  278). 


SEED-PODS   OF    WISTARIA    CHIN  EN  SIS. 

These  were  formed  during  the  hot  summer  of  1911. 


HARDY   CLIMBING   PLANTS  277 

part  of  the  garden.  L.  japonica  aurea  reticulata  (syn.  L.  brachypuda 
aurea  reticulata)  is  a  sun-loving  climber.  Its  small  green  leaves  are 
heavily  netted  with  rich  yellow.  The  variety  named  flexuosa  bears 
sweet-scented  pink  and  yellow  flowers  abundantly,  and  L.  etrusca,  a 
European  vigorous  species,  is  very  free,  the  flowers  orange-yellow.  L. 
flava  is  another  strong  grower,  but  it  is  only  a  success  in  warm  situations. 
Honeysuckles  may  be  propagated  by  cuttings  inserted  in  sandy  soil  in  a 
sheltered  position  outdoors  in  October. 

Lycium  europseum  (European  Box  Tree)  is  a  well-known  cottage 
garden  plant  of  free  growth,  even  on  poor  soils.  Its  long  spiny  shoots, 
clothed  with  small  light-green  leaves,  carry  many  small  reddish-coloured 
flowers,  which  are  succeeded  by  small  berries.  Suitable  for  clothing  dry 
banks.  L.  barbarum  is  a  beautiful  seaside  shrub,  slender  in  growth, 
with  violet-coloured  flowers  and  orange-scarlet  berries.  Of  the  last- 
named,  there  is  a  form  with  pretty  silvery  foliage. 

Passiflora  (Passion-Flower}. — The  blue  Passion-Flower  and  its  white 
variety,  Constance  Elliot,  are  most  effective  climbers  for  covering  a  large 
space^in  a  short  time,  and  are  practically  evergreen,  only  losing  their 
foliage  while  the  young  leaves  are  starting  in  the  spring.  During  the 
whole  summer  they  are  covered  with  their  large,  starry  flowers,  and  in 
the  autumn  are  thickly  hung  with  golden  fruit  in  sheltered  sites.  Propa- 
gated by  cuttings  inserted  in  cold  frame  in  summer.  Prune  Passion- 
Flowers  in  February  by  shortening  to  about  one-third  the  strong  shoots, 
but  remove  weakly  growths.  These  do  best  in  well-drained  sandy  loam. 

Polygonum  baldschuanicum.— This  is  a  very  popular  climbing 
plant  of  rare  beauty.  We  have  read  disparaging  paragraphs  concerning 
it,  but  the  plant's  failure  occasionally  to  come  up  to  expectations  is  due 
probably  to  many  seedlings  having  been  raised,  and  these  are  not  always 
true  to  the  original  type.  It  has  one  merit,  that  of  flowering  in  the 
autumn.  Planted  against  a  pergola,  pillar,  or  stout  post,  it  quickly 
makes  growth,  and  in  autumn  the  stems  are  clothed  with  misty  masses 
of  pink-tinted  flowers.  Sometimes  it  gets  cut  down  to  the  ground  in 
winter,  but  springs  up  again  the  following  spring.  The  flowers  last  well 
when  gathered  for  the  house.  It  bears  some  resemblance  to  P.  molle, 
but  is  quite  distinct.  It  is  excellent  for  rambling  over  old  trees, 
especially  evergreens. 

Solanum  jasminoides  is  a  beautiful  climbing  plant  that  is  covered 
with  white  flower-clusters  through  the  whole  of  the  summer  and  autumn. 
It  is  not  strictly  hardy,  but  does  well  in  the  south  of  England,  and  has 
withstood  the  winter  as  far  north  as  Derbyshire. 

Tropaeolum  speciosum  (The  Flame  Nasturtium).— This  is  an  ex- 
ceptionally brilliant  flowering  climber,  which  dies  down  each  winter.  It 
succeeds  better  in  the  north  than  in  the  southern  counties ;  and,  where 
it  is  established,  affords  a  marvellous  display  of  colour,  draping  the  boughs 
of  evergreens  with  its  scarlet  flower-trails.  Propagated  by  division  of 
roots.  It  loves  to  run  through  shrub  growth.  It  may  be  frequently 
seen  in  the  Highlands  of  Scotland  covering  the  cottages  with  a  crimson 
dress  of  flowers. 


278  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

Vitis. — For  beauty  of  leafage  the  Vines  excel  all  our  deciduous 
climbers.  They  may  be  used  for  covering  pergolas,  arbours,  trellised 
walks,  or  for  garlanding  the  trunks  of  old  trees.  There  are  many  orna- 
mental kinds,  of  which  the  following  form  a  good  selection  : — Vitis 
Coignetice,  a  recent  introduction,  which  bears  leaves,  often  one  foot  across, 
that  assume  a  rich  bronzy-crimson  in  the  autumn.  V.  californica,  V. 
Labrusca,  V.  Romaneti,  and  V.  vinifera  purpurea,  all  of  which  are  charac- 
terised by  rich  autumnal  tinting.  V.  laciniosa  bears  very  deeply-cut 
leaves,  while  V.  heterophylla  humulifolia,  the  Turquoise-berried  Vine,  in 
addition  to  its  handsome  foliage,  has  the  further  merit  of  producing  a 
profusion  of  pale-blue  fruit.  The  Japanese  Vines  are  glorious  climbing 
plants ;  their  big  leaves  are  a  blaze  of  colour  in  autumn,  and  everyone 
knows  how  graceful  the  Vine  is — beautiful,  not  merely  for  its  foliage  and 
tendrils,  but  for  its  foot-clusters  too.  The  Virginian  Creepers,  formerly 
known  as  Ampelopsis,  are  now  included  in  the  Vitis  family,  the  common 
Virginian  Creeper  being  called  V.  quinquefolia,  while  the  clinging  Ampe- 
lopsis Veitchi,  so  largely  used  for  covering  house-walls,  is  named  V. 
inconstant.  Ampelopsis,  or  muralis,  is  a  very  beautiful  form,  which  does 
not  cling  so  closely  as  Veitchi,  and  turns  to  brilliant  autumn  colours. 
The  new  species,  V.  armata,  V.  Thomsonii,  V.  henryana,  V.  lecoides,  V. 
megalophilla,  and  V.  ftexuosa  Wilsonii,  should  all  be  grown. 

Wistaria  Chinensis,  with  its  long  tassels  of  scented,  lavender 
flowers,  is  one  of  the  choicest  of  our  spring-blooming  climbers,  and  is 
equally  adapted  to  covering  walls,  arches,  and  pergolas.  There  is  a 
white  variety  and  also  a  double  form  of  this  charming  plant,  but  the  type 
is  the  most  beautiful.  W .  multijuga  is  a  species  much  grown  in  Japan  ; 
it  produces  extremely  long  flower-racemes  and  does  well  in  many  gardens 
in  this  country.  Wistarias  may  be  propagated  by  layering  the  young 
shoots  in  the  summer.  When  well-established  the  plants  make  rapid 
growth,  but  cases  often  occur  where  they  fail  to  make  vigorous  shoots 
for  some  years,  in  which  event  their  roots  should  be  exposed  and  afforded 
a  dressing  of  rich  soil.  Prune  by  shortening  back  the  shoots  in  the  early 
year. 


PART   II 


THE  GREENHOUSE  AND 
CONSERVATORY 


THE  greenhouse  is  an  indoor  garden.  It  may  be  a  pretty 
creation  or  a  muddle  of  anything  and  everything,  and  there 
is  a  general  and  unfortunate  tendency  to  attempt  too  much. 
When  many  plants  are  brought  together,  some  requiring 
distinct  treatment  to  others,  failures  must  occur.  This  does 
not  mean  that  it  is  impossible  to  grow  a  beautiful  and  varied 
collection  of  plants,  but  the  selection  must  be  right,  and  the 
requirements  of  individual  things  carefully  studied.  The 
word  greenhouse,  regarded  from  the  practical  gardener's 
point  of  view,  signifies  a  glass  structure,  in  which  no  fire-heat 
is  given  during  the  summer,  and  only  sufficient  in  the  winter 
to  prevent  the  temperature  falling  below  40  degrees.  At  that 
season  the  structure  is  used  for  storing  such  plants  as  Pelar- 
goniums, Heliotropes,  Petunias,  Fuchsias,  and  a  host  of  other 
things  that  need  almost  entire  rest  during  the  winter.  For 
maintaining  a  supply  of  flowers  throughout  the  winter  a  tem- 
perature of  50°  to  60°  F.  will  be  necessary.  In  the  case  of  the 
amateur,  however,  the  greenhouse  is  a  more  general  plant 
home.  The  building  itself,  size,  shape,  position,  and  other 
particulars,  depend  upon  the  surroundings  to  a  great  extent. 

The  Most  Satisfactory  Shape  is  the  span  roof,  as  the  light  is  then 
distributed  equally  on  both  sides ,  the  result  being  plants  of  better  shape 
than  can  be  grown  under  other  conditions.  The  great  objection  to  a 
span-roof  structure  in  a  small  place  is  the  amount  of  room  it  occupies, 
hence  what  is  known  as  a  lean-to  greenhouse  is  popular.  This  may  be 
erected  against  any  wall  of  sufficient  height,  and  is  frequently  attached 
to  the  dwelling-house.  In  such  a  structure  the  plants  grow  quite  one- 
sided, unless  they  are  occasionally  turned  round. 

In  erecting  a  greenhouse,  whether  large  or  small,  it  should  be  plain 
and  substantial.  A  complicated  design,  with  more  or  less  coloured 
glass,  is  a  death-trap  to  many  plants.  The  arrangement  of  the  staging 
in  a  span-roof  greenhouse  will  to  a  certain  extent  depend  upon  the  width 
of  the  structure.  When  it  is  ten  feet  wide,  three  feet  may  be  set  apart 
for  a  centre  path,  with  a  stage  on  each  side  three  feet  six  inches  wide. 

281 


282  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

In  narrower  houses  these  dimensions  may  be  proportionately  reduced. 
For  a  house  sixteen  feet  wide  a  central  stage  is  necessary.  It  may  be 
four  feet  in  width,  with  a  walk  of  three  feet  on  each  side,  and  an  outside 
stage  of  the  same  dimensions — sixteen  feet  in  all.  Ample  ventilation  is 
essential,  and  this  should  be  provided  for  by  means  of  lifting  or  sliding 
lights  on  the  top,  and  also  in  the  sashes  around  the  sides,  while  if  it  is  to 
be  heated  by  hot-water  pipes,  a  few  wooden  traps  in  the  wall  close  to 
the  pipes  are  serviceable.  By  means  of  these  a  little  air  may  be  given 
in  the  winter,  when  the  pipes  are  hot,  without  lowering  the  temperature 
to  any  extent,  the  cool  air  admitted  by  this  means  serving  to  neutralise 
the  drying  effects  of  the  hot  pipes. 

For  a  lean-to  greenhouse  the  question  of  ventilation  applies  with 
equal  force,  but,  of  course,  the  arrangement  of  the  staging  is  quite  differ- 
ent from  that  of  a  span-roof  structure.  The  usual  plan  is  to  have  a 
stage  along  the  front,  then  the  path,  and  at  the  back  of  the  house  a 
stage  arranged  in  a  step-like  way,  so  that  the  plants  can  obtain  a  full 
amount  of  light  and  air. 

Various  materials  are  used  for  staging,  one  of  the  neatest  and  most 
permanent  being  slates,  but  their  cost  is  frequently  prohibitive.  If  the 
stage  is  made  of  ordinary  deals,  two  good  coats  of  red-lead  priming  must 
be  given  before  applying  the  paint.  Flat  stages  should  be  covered  with 
a  moisture-retaining  material,  and  for  this  purpose  nothing  is  better  than 
the  sea  shingle,  largely  composed  of  cockle  shells,  used  so  much  for 
paths,  &c.  Besides  retaining  the  moisture,  it  is  sweet,  clean,  and  does 
not  harbour  insects.  Other  materials  may  be  used,  such  as  fine  gravel, 
with  the  sand  sifted  out,  ashes,  &c.,  but  shingle  is  the  most  satisfactory. 

Position. — Where  a  choice  of  position  exists — an  unusual  occurrence, 
except  in  large  gardens — a  span-roof  structure  should  run  north  and 
south,  so  that  both  sides  of  the  house  will  be  exposed  to  the  sun  some 
time  during  the  day.  With  a  lean-to  one  must  take  advantage  of  an 
existing  wall,  therefore  it  by  no  means  invariably  faces  the  south  ;  indeed, 
it  is  sometimes  almost  entirely  shaded.  Even  when  a  greenhouse  is  shut 
off  from  the  sun  it  may  be  made  attractive,  though  the  selection  of  plants 
for  this  purpose  will  be  different  from  that  in  a  sunny  spot.  Hardy  Ferns 
would  succeed  in  a  shaded  house. 

Shading. — Though,  as  stated,  a  greenhouse  in  a  quite  shaded  place 
is  suitable  for  only  a  small  collection  of  plants,  yet  full  sun  is  injurious 
to  so  many  subjects  that  shading  is  absolutely  necessary,  and  that  not 
only  for  the  sake  of  the  plants  themselves,  but  for  comfort  too.  The 
most  desirable  form  of  shading  material  is  some  kind  of  canvas  fastened 
on  rollers,  so  that  it  can  be  drawn  up  when  not  requried.  This  needs 
constant  attention,  therefore  many  prefer  permanent  shading.  Nume- 
rous mixtures  are  sold  for  the  purpose.  One  that  can  be  thoroughly 
recommended  is  known  as  "  Summer  Cloud." 

A  good  home-made  permanent  shading  can  be  formed  by  placing 
seven  pounds  of  size  in  a  pail,  and  standing  it  over  the  fire  until  dis- 
solved, then  stir  in  a  knob  of  whiting,  pounded  fine,  and  one  pound  of 
Brunswick  green.  This  must  be  applied,  while  still  warm,  on  the  out- 


GREENHOUSE   AND   CONSERVATORY     283 

side  of  the  glass  with  a  painter's  brush,  and  if  the  sun  is  shining  on  the 
glass  at  the  time  so  much  the  better.  This  shading  gradually  thins,  so 
that  by  the  autumn,  when  the  sun  loses  power,  there  is  little  left. 

In  a  sunny  spot  when  the  shading  is  on  rollers  it  may  be  used  during 
the  brightest  part  of  the  day  from  the  middle  of  March  onwards. 
Flowering  subjects  last  much  longer  thus  treated,  but  permanent  shad- 
ing should  not  be  put  on  before  April. 

So  many  horticultural  builders  now  make  a  specialty  of  greenhouses 
for  the  amateur  that  even  if  it  be  intended  to  put  up  the  structure  one's 
self  the  most  satisfactory  way  will  be  to  obtain  the  materials  from  a 
trustworthy  firm,  and  supplied  ready  for  putting  together.  After  the 
house  is  put  up  two  or  three  good  coats  of  paint  both  inside  and  out 
should  be  given,  as  these  preserve  the  wood. 

H eating. — During  the  greater  part  of  the  year  artificial  heat  is 
unnecessary  for  the  greenhouse  ;  it  is  required  more  or  less  throughout 
the  late  autumn,  winter,  and  early  spring  months.  Various  devices 
have  been  employed  to  keep  the  structure  at  a  given  temperature  during 
frosty  weather,  but  the  usual  way  is  to  have  a  boiler  outside  to  heat  a 
certain  quantity  of  hot-water  pipes  within  the  greenhouse.  Several 
prominent  manufacturers  have  devoted  much  attention  to  the  produc- 
tion of  a  boiler  that  needs  little  attention  and  will  burn  for  many  hours, 
with  the  result  that  some  most  effective  boilers  can  now  be  obtained. 
The  quantity  of  pipes  necessary  to  protect  from  frost  and  their  arrange- 
ment depend  so  much  upon  the  situation  of  the  structure  and  many 
other  items  that  the  most  satisfactory  way  is,  after  having  selected  the 
form  of  boiler,  to  ask  the  maker's  advice.  Of  course  all  particulars 
must  be  supplied,  as  in  this  way  only  a  correct  opinion  can  be  formed. 
In  the  case  of  boilers  of  all  kinds  much  depends  upon  the  way  they  are 
managed.  Cleanliness  is  an  important  item,  and  this  applies  not  only 
to  the  boiler  itself,  but  to  the  flues  connected  with  it.  In  frosty  weather 
the  most  critical  time  is  usually  about  daybreak,  hence  the  boiler  should 
if  possible  be  attended  to  then,  and  if  it  has  remained  untouched  through 
the  night  it  will  contain  little  fire.  This  must  be  freed  from  ashes  and 
clinkers,  when  it  burns  freely,  and  soon  causes  the  water  to  circulate 
briskly  in  the  hot-water  pipes  at  that  important  moment.  Care  should 
be  taken,  however,  not  to  make  the  pipes  too  hot,  as  they  then  give  off 
an  enervating  dry  heat  injurious  to  plants,  though  it  encourages  the 
insects  that  prey  upon  them.  Such  being  the  case  it  is  better  to  spread 
the  heat  over  more  pipes  than  to  keep  those  in  use  too  hot.  Whether 
coal  or  coke  is  used  it  should  be  broken  small  and  slightly  damped,  as  it 
will  then  last  longer  and  give  greater  heat.  Attention  to  these  minor 
details  makes  the  successful  stoker.  In  the  case  of  an  amateur  with  a 
small  greenhouse  two  great  objections  to  the  above-named  systems  of 
heating  are  :  firstly,  the  expense ;  and  secondly,  the  fact  that  stoking, 
even  if  carefully  done,  is  dirty  work,  and  irritating  late  in  the  evening, 
when  during  frost  the  fire  must  be  attended  to.  This  has  led  to  a  great 
increase  in  the  use  of 

Oil  Lamps  for  keeping  out  the  frost,  and  the  firm  of  Rippingille,  so 


284  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

noted  for  their  oil  stoves  of  all  kinds,  have  brought  out  some  good  forms 
for  heating  greenhouses.  Though  varying  in  power  the  principle  remains 
the  same ;  it  is  that  of  an  upright  boiler,  connected  by  means  of  hot- 
water  pipes  with  a  standard  of  the  same  height  as  the  boiler.  This 
allows  a  free  circulation  of  water,  and  of  course  the  heat  given  off  is 
considerable.  The  heating  apparatus  consists  of  a  large  sliding  tank  for 
the  oil  and  one  or  more  burners.  A  sufficient  quantity  of  oil  is  stored 
to  bum  from  sixteen  to  twenty  hours,  thus  avoiding  soiled  hands  and 
unpleasant  work  late  in  the  evening.  Of  course  the  lamp  requires  regular 
and  careful  trimming,  a  remark  that  applies  with  equal  force  to  an  ordi- 
nary table-lamp.  Even  a  table-lamp  of  the  duplex  kind  will  protect  the 
plants  in  a  small  house  from  danger  during  a  sharp  frost.  The  different 
forms  of  hot-water  apparatus  heated  by  oil  are  perfectly  free  from  smoke 
and  smell,  provided  always  that  the  lamp  is  thoroughly  trimmed.  It  is 
portable,  therefore  can  be  readily  shifted  to  that  part  of  the  structure 
requiring  the  greatest  amount  of  heat.  As  the  lamps  require  no  chimneys, 
flues,  or  fixtures  of  any  kind,  and  the  dirt  and  inconvenience  of  stoking 
are  entirely  obviated,  the  different  forms  of  oil  stoves  may  be  recom- 
mended to  the  amateur.  A  little  experience  will  determine  the  best 
position  for  the  stove,  which  should  not  be  closer  to  the  plants  than  can 
be  helped,  consistent  with  being  in  the  best  position  for  heating  the 
greenhouse. 

As  with  proper  attention  the  lamps  are  quite  clean  and  free  from 
smell,  these  oil  stoves  can  be  used  where  the  greenhouse  or  conservatory 
is  attached  to  the  house,  with  a  communication  between  the  two.  They 
are  not  in  the  least  unsightly ;  indeed,  some  of  the  better  forms  are 
quite  ornamental.  There  are  also  several  forms  of  boilers  heated  by  gas, 
these  being  very  convenient  and  effectual,  provided  the  gas  cannot  have 
access  to  the  structure.  When  heating  a  greenhouse  too  high  a  tem- 
perature must  not  be  maintained  during  winter.  The  object  is  simply 
to  keep  the  plants  free  from  frost  and  not  to  unduly  excite  them,  for  those 
that  experience  a  period  of  comparative  rest  during  the  winter  grow  with 
greater  freedom  than  those  which  have  been  placed  under  warmer  con- 
ditions at  the  dull  period  of  the  year.  For  an  average  greenhouse,  with 
the  usual  occupants  of  such  a  structure,  a  night  temperature  of  45  degrees 
is  quite  sufficient ;  indeed,  it  may  during  very  severe  weather  drop 
another  5  degrees  without  injury.  As  previously  stated,  however,  if 
a  display  of  flowers  is  needed,  a  night  temperature  of  50  degrees  must  be 
ensured.  Even  in  the  depth  of  winter  artificial  heat  may  be  frequently 
dispensed  with  for  days  together ;  but  after  a  spell  of  wet,  dull  weather, 
even  when  no  frost  is  likely  to  occur,  it  is  sometimes  advisable  to  light 
the  stove  for  a  short  time  to  dry  up  superfluous  moisture. 

Many  forms  of  propagating  cases  for  seeds  and  cuttings  are  heated 
with  an  oil  lamp ;  but  an  objection  to  these  is  that  they  give  off  too 
much  heat,  hence  the  young  plants  quickly  become  debilitated,  and  are 
not  so  strong  as  those  raised  in  the  ordinary  atmosphere  of  the  green- 
house. 

Potting  Soils.— The  preparation  of  soils  for  potting  is  important, 


GREENHOUSE   AND   CONSERVATORY     285 

and  often  sadly  neglected.  It  is  a  common  practice  to  dig  up  a  little 
garden  soil  for  this  purpose,  the  result  being  unhealthy  plants ,  and  general 
disappointment. 

The  potting  composts,  which  are  blended  in  various  ways  according 
to  the  requirements  of  the  plants,  are  technically  known  as  loam,  peat, 
leaf-mould,  decayed  manure,  sand,  and  cocoanut  fibre  refuse. 

Of  these  the  most  important  is — 

Loam,  as  it  forms  the  principal  portion  of  the  compost  for  nearly 
all  classes  of  plants.  It  is  really  the  common  earth  of  the  fields  and 
meadows,  and  in  some  districts  good  loam  is  easy  to  obtain.  Loam 
should  be  fairly  adhesive,  but  sufficiently  friable  to  break  up  if  rubbed 
between  the  fingers.  Some  loams  are  of  a  more  clayey  nature  than 
others,  but  this  may  be  neutralised  by  mixing  in  an  increased  quantity 
of  peat  or  leaf-mould,  which  are  described  later  on.  Too  near  an 
approach  to  clay  will,  however,  render  the  soil  useless  for  potting.  The 
best  loam,  that  generally  used  in  high-class  gardens  and  in  nurseries,  is 
obtained  by  taking  the  top  spit  of  a  meadow  and  making  it  into  a  stack 
with  the  grass  side  downwards.  This  must  remain  in  bulk  for  at  least 
a  year  (and  two  years  are  better),  until  the  grass  is  quite  dead,  and  only 
the  fibres  which  serve  to  keep  the  soil  porous  remain.  Some  localities, 
particularly  in  Surrey  and  Hampshire,  are  famous  for  their  loam,  which 
is  sent  to  all  parts  of  the  country  for  potting. 

Peat  is  principally  obtained  from  commons,  on  which  the  Heath  and 
Bracken  flourish,  the  neighbourhood  of  the  New  Forest  being  noted  for 
the  superior  quality  of  its  peat.  It  is  dark  in  colour,  and  principally 
composed  of  decayed  vegetable  matter,  roots  of  various  kinds,  and  sand. 
Peat  is  naturally  of  an  open  nature,  and  water  passes  easily  through  it. 
It  is  mixed  with  loam  to  form  a  compost  that  is  readily  drained,  as 
stagnant  moisture  is  detrimental  to  successful  plant-culture. 

Leaf -mould  is  formed  of  decayed  leaves  which  are  collected  in  a 
heap  and  turned  over  occasionally  until  the  leaves  themselves  dis- 
appear into  a  dark-coloured  mould.  Where  leaves  and  dung  are  mixed 
together  to  form  a  hot-bed,  this  matter,  when  thoroughly  decayed,  is 
most  useful  for  potting.  The  leaves  of  the  Oak  and  Beech  are  among 
the  best  for  the  production  of  leaf-mould,  which  is  used  for  the  same 
purpose  as  peat. 

Manure  in  a  fresh  or  crude  state  is  too  violent  in  its  effects  to  go 
with  potting  soil,  but  cow  manure  is,  when  thoroughly  decayed,  a  valu- 
able stimulant.  It  must,  however,  be  quite  dry,  otherwise  it  is  often 
infested  with  worms  to  such  an  extent  that  successful  plant-culture  is 
rendered  impossible. 

Sand  is  of  great  service  in  increasing  the  porosity  of  soils,  and  is 
useful  for  cuttings,  small  seedlings,  and  any  subjects  with  tender  and 
delicate  roots.  Silver  sand  is  principally  used,  but  in  many  districts 
sand  of  good  quality  is  deposited  by  the  side  of  small  running  streams. 

Cocoanut  Fibre  Refuse. — This  is  a  valuable  but  little  understood 
substance.  By  many  it  is  regarded  as  a  manure,  but  this  is  a  mistake. 
Cuttings  of  many  subjects  strike  root  readily  in  a  mixture  of  cocoanut 


286  GARDENING  FOR   BEGINNERS 

fibre  refuse  and  sand,  but  they  must  be  potted  into  soil  soon  after  the 
roots  are  formed,  otherwise  they  are  apt  to  decay.  It  may  also  be  mixed 
with  loam  where  peat  or  leaf-mould  are  not  available,  but  the  last  two 
are  preferable.  For  covering  the  surface  of  small  beds  of  flowers,  either  to 
prevent  too  rapid  evaporation,  or  to  save  the  flowers  from  being  splashed 
by  the  rain,  cocoanut  fibre  refuse  is  excellent,  while  it  is  used  largely  to 
plunge  pots  in,  so  that  the  roots  do  not  dry  so  quickly  as  when  fully 
exposed. 

The  Mixing  of  Soils  is  an  important  item,  the  proportions  em- 
ployed depending  upon  the  plants  for  which  the  soil  is  intended,  and 
also  upon  the  consistency  of  the  loam.  A  few  items  of  general  advice, 
however,  will  be  of  great  service  to  the  beginner.  For  the  majority  of 
plants,  such  as  Fuchsias,  Pelargoniums,  Heliotropes,  Petunias,  and  a 
host  of  similar  subjects,  a  suitable  compost  may  be  formed  of  two-parts 
loam  to  one-part  leaf-mould,  or,  failing  this,  peat,  and  about  half  a  part 
each  of  sand  and  decayed  manure.  None  of  the  ingredients  should  be 
sifted,  but  the  lumps  broken  up  with  the  hand ;  indeed,  the  sieve  is 
frequently  a  mistake,  as  it  deprives  the  soil  of  the  matter  which  renders 
it  porous.  For  cuttings,  seed-sowing,  and  transplanting  tiny  seedlings, 
the  soil  should  be  passed  through  a  sieve  with  a  quarter  of  an  inch  mesh, 
but  for  general  potting  it  must  not  be  sifted.  When  the  mixture  above 
mentioned  is  thoroughly  incorporated  together,  it  is  fit  for  use.  In 
potting,  see  that  the  soil  contains  the  requisite  amount  of  moisture,  as  if 
too  dry  or  too  wet  future  success  is  unlikely.  A  good  guide  is  to  take  a 
handful  of  soil  and  press  it  tightly  together.  It  should  be  sufficiently 
moist  to  retain  its  shape,  and  yet  dry  enough  to  crumble  to  pieces  when 
rubbed.  If  dry  soil  is  damped,  it  must  stand  twenty-four  hours  before 
use,  in  order  to  allow  the  mass  to  be  in  one  condition  of  moisture. 

Though  these  directions  as  to  the  mixing  of  soil,  &c.,  are  given,  the 
amateur  with  limited  space  who  happens  to  reside  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  a  nursery  or  florist,  will  be  able  to  obtain  suitable  "oil  for  general 
purposes  already  mixed  at  a  cheap  rate,  and  will  find  this  a  convenient 
method  to  adopt. 

Seed  Sowing  and  Propagation  by  Cuttings.—  Many  beautiful 
flowering  plants  can  be  raised  from  seed,  including  not  only  many 
available  for  the  greenhouse  itself,  but  also  that  large  class  known  as 
tender  annuals,  which  should  be  raised  under  glass  and  planted  out 
later  on.  Such  popular  flowers  as  China  Asters,  Zinnias,  Balsams,  and 
Celosias  may  be  treated  in  this  way.  Whether  seeds  are  sown  in  boxes, 
pans,  or  pots,  the  method  of  procedure  remains  the  same.  Thorough 
drainage  is  necessary,  therefore  ensure  this  by  putting  a  layer  of  broken 
crocks  in  the  bottom  of  the  pot,  pan,  or  box.  On  this  place  the  soil 
and  press  it  down  moderately  firm  to  about  half  an  -inch  below  the  rim. 
Make  it  level,  but  do  not  pat  the  surface  smooth,  as  this  prevents  the 
roots  from  entering  readily  into  the  soil  when  the  seed  germinates. 
Having  prepared  the  receptacles,  sow  the  seed  by  sprinkling  it  on  the 
surface  of  the  soil,  taking  care  not  to  sow  too  thickly.  There  is  a  great 
tendency  to  do  this,  especially  in  the  case  of  small  seeds  that  retain  their 


GREENHOUSE   AND   CONSERVATORY     287 

vitality  well,  and  if  crowded  together  the  seedlings  quickly  become 
weakened,  and  never  attain  the  vigour  of  those  that  are  allowed  ample 
space  from  birth.  After  sowing  cover  the  seeds  by  a  sprinkling  of 
soil  that  has  been  passed  through  a  sieve  with  a  quarter  of  an  inch  mesh. 
The  depth  of  the  covering  depends  greatly  upon  the  size  of  the  seeds,  a 
good  general  guide  being  to  bury  the  seed  at  its  own  depth  below  the 
surface  of  the  soil.  This  in  the  case  of  minute  seeds  means  merely  a 
slight  sprinkling.  Some  seeds,  such  as  those  of  Acacias  and  Cannas,  are 
very  hard,  and  frequently  take  a  long  time  to  germinate  if  sown  in  the 
ordinary  way.  To  assist  germination  the  seeds  are  sometimes  filed, 
but  there  is  some  risk  in  this,  a  more  satisfactory  plan  being  to  soak 
hard  seeds  for  twenty-four  hours  in  warm  water.  It  should  be  kept  if 
possible  at  a  temperature  of  80  degrees  to  85  degrees.  This  treatment 
will  have  a  considerable  effect  on  the  seed,  which  must  be  sown  directly 
it  is  taken  from  the  water.  The  soil  must  not  get  too  dry  after  sowing 
as  the  seeds  will  be  just  on  the  point  of  starting  into  growth,  and  in  this 
stage  are  soon  injured  by  drought. 

In  the  case  of  very  tiny  seeds  such  as  Begonia,  Gloxinia,  Lobelia, 
and  others  a  different  course  of  treatment  is  needed.  After  sowing  the 
seed  thinly  on  the  moistened  surface  of  the  soil,  which  has  been  watered 
through  a  fine  rose  just  beforehand,  the  only  covering  needed  will  be  a 
pane  of  glass  laid  over  the  top.  This  should  be  allowed  to  remain  until 
the  seeds  germinate.  When  this  is  done  the  sun  must  not  shine  on  the 
glass,  otherwise  the  small  space  between  it  and  the  surface  of  the  soil 
will  be  so  hot  as  to  roast  the  tender  seedlings.  As  soon  as  they  have 
formed  the  cotyledons,  or  seed-leaves,  remove  the  glass  and  inure  the 
young  plants  to  the  ordinary  atmosphere  of  the  greenhouse.  With 
regard  to  the  length  of  time  occupied  by  seeds  before  they  germinate  no 
hard-and-fast  line  can  be  given,  as  some  remain  much  longer  in  the 
ground  than  others ;  while  much  also  depends  upon  the  seed  itself,  for 
if  kept  a  long  time  before  sowing  its  germination  is,  as  a  rule,  more 
irregular  than  if  sown  soon  after  it  is  ripe.  Thus  Primula  seed  will 
often  germinate  in  a  fortnight  or  so  after  sowing,  but  it  may  remain  for 
a  year  and  finally  grow. 

The  seeds  of  all  that  section  of  plants  known  as  dicotyledons,  which 
include  most  subjects  grown  for  the  greenhouse,  first  push  above  the 
surface  a  pair  of  cotyledons,  or  seed-leaves,  as  they  are  often  called. 
Then  from  the  centre  of  these  appears  the  first  proper  leaf,  and  as  the 
plants  develop  the  cotyledons  finally  die  away.  A  critical  time  with 
many  seedlings  is  just  as  the  first  true  leaf  develops,  the  young  plants 
being  apt  to  topple  over  and  decay.  This  kind  of  decay  is  known  as 
"  damping  off,"  and  is  frequently  due  to  an  excess  of  moisture  or  too 
close  an  atmosphere,  but  however  carefully  seedlings  are  looked  after  it 
is  very  liable  to  happen,  especially  if  crowded.  To  stop  this  damping 
off  transfer  the  young  seedlings  to  other  pots  or  pans,  using  a  pointed 
piece  of  wood  known  as  a  dibble  in  the  case  of  small  kinds. 

Pricking  off  the  Seedlings. — The  process  referred  to  in  horticultural 
publications  as  "  pricking  off  "  is  carried  out  in  the  following  manner : — 


288  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

The  pots  or  pans  are  prepared  as  for  seed-sowing,  then  with  a  pointed 
piece  of  wood  one  of  the  seedlings  is  carefully  lifted  without  injuring 
the  roots.  With  the  dibble  held  perpendicularly,  make  a  hole  sufficiently 
deep  to  take  the  young  plant,  burying  the  stem  almost  to  the  cotyledons. 
Never  make  the  hole  deeper  than  is  necessary,  otherwise  a  cavity  will 
remain  at  the  bottom.  To  close  the  soil  around  the  seedling  when  it  is 
placed  in  position,  insert  the  dibble  exactly  as  before,  but  from  a  quarter 
to  half  an  inch  from  the  little  plant,  towards  which  the  soil  must  be 
pressed.  By  this  means  the  buried  portion  of  the  stem  is  held  in  position 
throughout  its  length,  and  not  merely  on  the  upper  part  as  is  so  often 
practised.  When  this  is  finished  the  soil  must  be  watered  through  a 
fine  rose,  sufficient  being  used  to  settle  everything  in  its  place,  after 
which  shade  the  plants  for  a  few  days  until  the  roots  recover  from  the 
check  sustained  during  transplanting.  When  the  young  plants  crowd 
each  other  either  put  them  into  small  pots  or  plant  them  out. 

In  the  case  of  seedlings  of  strong  growing  plants,  such  as  Cannas,  no 
pricking  off  will  be  necessary,  the  young  plants  being  simply  trans- 
ferred from  the  pots  or  pans  in  which  they  have  been  sown  and  potted 
singly  into  small  pots. 

The  process  known  as 

Hardening  off—  that  is,  gradually  inuring  plants  to  changes  of 
condition  and  of  temperature — is  of  great  importance,  for  if  plants  grown 
under  glass  and  partially  shaded  are  suddenly  transferred  to  the  open 
ground  they  are  sure  to  suffer,  while  if  the  change  is  gradual  they  will 
not  be  affected.  In  the  case  of  seedlings  that  have  been  raised  in  the 
greenhouse  for  planting  out  in  the  open  ground  later  on,  take  advantage 
of  a  dull  or  showery  day  for  the  work,  as  then  they  quickly  recover 
from  the  check  occasioned  by  removal. 

Cuttings. — Many  plants  can  be  propagated  by  cuttings,  and  though 
some  require  different  treatment  from  others,  a  few  simple  rules  will 
generally  suffice  to  achieve  success.  As  the  cuttings  when  separated 
from  the  parent  plant  quickly  flag  if  fully  exposed  to  the  air,  a  small 
frame  is  necessary,  air-tight,  or  nearly  so,  and  fitted  with  glass  lights. 
This,  which  is  usually  like  an  ordinary  garden  frame  in  shape,  is  known 
as  a  propagating  case  ;  but  failing  this  a  home-made  article  may  be  im- 
provised that  will  answer  the  same  purpose.  A  shallow  box,  about  seven 
or  eight  inches  deep,  slightly  higher  at  the  back  than  at  the  front,  with 
a  few  squares  of  glass  laid  over  it,  forms  a  good  propagating  case  for 
most  greenhouse  plants.  The  glass  must  be  removed  each  morning  to 
drain  off  accumulated  moisture,  and  also  to  allow  for  the  removal  of  any 
decaying  leaves,  while  the  soil  when  dry  may  be  watered. 

The  majority  of  greenhouse  plants,  including  such  popular  subjects 
as  Fuchsias,  Heliotropes,  Petunias,  Begonias,  Coleus,  and  many  others, 
all  strike  root  readily  with  the  following  treatment : — Take  some  clean 
four-inch  pots,  place  one  crock  (that  is,  a  piece  of  broken  pot)  in  the 
bottom,  so  as  to  cover  the  hole,  then  over  this  a  few  smaller  pieces. 
Then  make  a  mixture  of  equal  parts  of  loam,  leaf-mould,  or  peat,  and 
silver  sand,  and  pass  the  whole  through  a  sieve  with  a  mesh  of  a  quarter 


f* 


o 


A    WINTER-FLOWERING   BEGONIA    RAISED   FROM   A 
CUTTING. 


GREENHOUSE   AND   CONSERVATORY     289 

to  half  an  inch.  The  result  will  be  a  sandy  mixture  without  large  lumps. 
With  this  fill  the  prepared  pots  moderately  firm  to  within  a  quarter  of 
an  inch  of  the  top,  and  they  are  then  ready  for  the  cuttings.  The  spring 
is  the  busiest  period  with  the  propagator,  but  cuttings  may  also  be  put 
in  successfully  throughout  the  summer  months.  The  best  cuttings  as  a 
rule  consist  of  the  young  growing  shoots,  taken  off  at  a  length  of  about 
three  inches,  and  when  the  bottom  leaves  are  removed  they  are  ready  for 
insertion.  The  cuttings  must  be  put  in  with  a  dibble  exactly  as  directed 
for  pricking  off  seedlings,  and  care  must  be  taken  not  to  overcrowd 
them,  as  if  this  is  done,  decay  is  liable  to  set  in.  At  the  same  time, 
space  within  the  propagating  case  is  usually  in  demand,  so  that  no  room 
must  be  wasted.  Seven  cuttings  of  such  subjects  as  Fuchsias  and  Helio- 
tropes may  be,  as  a  rule,  accommodated  in  a  four-inch  pot.  Directly 
they  are  put  in  give  them  a  good  watering  through  a  fine  rose.  The 
warmest  part  of  the  greenhouse  should  be  chosen  for  the  propagating 
case,  and  when  this  structure  is  kept  at  a  slightly  higher  temperature 
the  cuttings  will  root  more  quickly.  Even  when  the  greenhouse  is 
shaded,  lay  an  additional  sheet  of  paper  over  the  propagating  case  until 
the  cuttings  are  rooted.  As  soon  as  this  takes  place  more  air  must  be 
given,  and  the  cuttings  gradually  inured  to  the  ordinary  atmosphere  of 
the  greenhouse,  when  they  should  be  potted  singly  into  small  pots. 
Many  cuttings  strike  root  in  three  weeks  or  so,  so  that  from  even  a  small 
case  a  considerable  number  of  things  can  be  turned  out  during  the  season. 
By  many  people  bottom  heat  is  considered  necessary  for  propagation 
by  cuttings,  but  this  is  not  the  case,  though,  of  course,  they  strike  in 
less  time  with  the  additional  warmth. 

Though  cuttings  of  most  plants  may  be  struck  according  to  the 
directions  above  given,  there  are  exceptions,  one  of  the  most  important 
being  the  Pelargonium,  or  Geranium,  as  it  is  often  called,  which  is  repre- 
sented in  our  gardens  by  innumerable  varieties.  For  these  prepare  the 
pots  as  just  recommended  for  other  subjects,  but  the  cuttings  are  treated 
differently.  They  should  be  cut  clean  off  just  below  a  joint,  with  a 
sharp  knife,  and  the  bottom  leaf  removed.  Then  take  off  the  small 
leaf-like  scales  that  are  formed  on  the  stem,  as  these  otherwise  frequently 
prove  a  source  of  decay.  The  cuttings  should  then  be  inserted  in  the 
pots  prepared  for  them,  give  a  good  watering,  and  stand  on  a  shelf  or  a 
similar  position  in  the  greenhouse.  Though  the  leaves  will  flag,  and 
many  of  the  cuttings  after  a  few  days  look  unhappy,  they  soon  root 
under  this  treatment,  not  damping  off  or  becoming  attenuated  as  would 
result  in  a  close  case.  Of  course  the  soil  must  be  kept  moderately  moist. 
When  a  pot  is  prepared  for  cuttings  it  is  finished  off  by  some  growers 
with  a  layer  of  clean  silver  sand  on  the  top,  but  this  is  not  recommended, 
as  if  at  all  exposed  the  sand  quickly  dries,  hence  a  mistake  is  often  made 
of  watering  the  cuttings  when  the  soil  below  the  layer  of  sand  is  sufficiently 
wet,  and  this  may  lead  to  disastrous  results. 

Another  class  of  plants  requiring  still  different  treatment  comprises 
those  of  a  succulent  nature,  which  will  not  flag  however  exposed.  The 
cuttings  of  these  should  not  be  inserted  for  a  day  after  being  separated 

T 


290  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

from  the  parent  plant,  as  when  full  of  sap  they  are  liable  to  decay.  These 
remarks  apply  to  the  numerous  flowering  Cacti,  Rochea  falcata,  Crassula, 
or  Kalosanthes  coccinea,  and  such  subjects.  The  best  cuttings  of  these 
flowering  Cacti  are  furnished  by  the  shoots  from  four  inches  to  six  inches 
long,  pulled  off  at  the  base  from  their  point  of  union  with  the  main  stem. 
A  little  brick  rubble  mixed  with  the  soil  is  in  their  case  an  advantage. 

Propagation  by  cuttings  must  be  resorted  to  in  order  to  increase  any 
particular  variety  among  the  numerous  florist's  flowers,  for  such  things 
as  Fuchsias,  Pelargoniums,  Begonias,  and  similar  subjects  cannot  be 
raised  from  seed  with  the  knowledge  that  the  progeny  will  resemble  the 
parent  plant.  Raising  seedlings  of  such  things  is,  however,  very  in- 
teresting, and  there  is  always  the  chance  of  obtaining  something  good. 

Potting. — This  is  an  important  operation  in  plant-culture,  and  suc- 
cess depends  upon  the  way  in  which  this  work  is  managed.  The  first 
consideration  is  to  see  that  the  pots  used  are  thoroughly  clean.  When 
dirty,  wash  them  inside  and  out,  and  allow  them 
to  get  quite  dry  again  before  use.  Proper  drain- 
age, too,  is  essential.  This  is  provided  by  placing 
a  piece  of  broken  flower-pot,  known  as  a  crock, 
over  the  hole  in  the  bottom,  and  a  few  other 
smaller  crocks  around  it.  Oyster-shells  form  a 

good  substitute  for  broken  crocks ;    indeed,  by 

many  they  are  preferred.     Whichever  is  used, 

FIG.  19.— Shows  Drain-    place  them  with  the  concave  side  downwards, 

age  m  Flower-pot.         ag  by  SQ  doing  surplus  water  runs  away  freely^ 

On    this,    composed    of  whereas,  if  the  convex  portion  is  placed  directly 

fa?  b7plSS'aShl°uk  over  the  hole,  a  very  little  soil  will  stop  the 

moss,  or  turfy  soil,  be-  drainage.    The  soil  employed  must  be  in  an  even 

fore  filling  with  mould,     condition  of  moisture,  as  mentioned  under  the  head 

of  potting-soils.    The  operation  of  shifting  a  plant 

from  the  pot  in  which  it  has  been  growing  into  a  larger  one  is  carried  out  in 
the  following  manner  : — First  take  care  that  the  ball  of  earth  of  the  plant 
that  one  is  going  to  shift  is  neither  too  wet  nor  too  dry ;  then  remove 
it  from  the  pot  by  turning  it  nearly  upside  down,  supporting  what  was 
the  upper  surface  of  the  ball  of  earth  with  the  left  hand,  and  holding  the 
pot  in  the  right.  A  sharp  tap  of  the  edge  of  the  pot  on  the  potting- 
bench  will  bring  the  entire  ball  of  earth  out  of  the  pot,  and,  as  its  weight 
then  falls  directly  on  the  left  hand,  take  care  that  at  that  moment  it  does 
not  drop.  Then  remove  the  crocks,  without  bruising  or  injuring  the 
roots  in  any  way.  This  done,  loosen  with  a  pointed  stick  some  of  the 
principal  roots  that  are  wound  round  the  ball  of  earth,  so  that  they  will 
more  readily  take  possession  of  the  new  soil  when  potted.  Of  course, 
this  must  be  carried  out  carefully ;  but  a  little  practice  will  soon  deter- 
mine the  extent  to  which  the  roots  can  be  disturbed  without  injury, 
in  fact,  to  the  future  benefit  of  the  plant,  which  will  be  now  ready  for  the 
new  pot.  Its  size  will,  of  course,  depend  upon  the  kind  of  plant  to  be 
potted  and  its  condition,  but  generally  a  good  healthy  plant,  when  shifted, 
should  be  put  into  a  pot  sufficiently  large  to  allow  a  space  of  an  inch 


GREENHOUSE   AND   CONSERVATORY      291 

between  the  ball  of  earth  and  the  side  of  the  pot.  The  actual  potting 
is  then  performed  by  taking  a  handful  of  the  coarsest  of  the  soil  and  plac- 
ing it  immediately  over  the  crocks,  then  further  adding  sufficient  soil,  so 
that  the  upper  part  of  the  ball  of  earth  will  be  about  half  an  inch  below 
the  rim  of  the  pot.  Fill  in  the  soil  around  the  sides,  pressing  it  down 
firmly  and  evenly.  If  cavities  are  left,  failure  will  probably  result.  In 
pressing  down  the  soil,  particularly  if  a  lesser  space  than  an  inch  is 
allowed,  a  piece  of  wood,  such  as  a  lath,  will  be  useful.  The  sharp 
edges  of  it  should  be  smoothed  down,  otherwise  the  roots  may  be  injured. 
The  potting  operation  is  complete  when  the  new  soil  is  worked  all  around, 
and  the  old  ball  of  earth  slightly  covered  with  it.  Allow  half  an  inch  or 
so  from  the  level  of  the  rim  of  the  pot  to  the  old  ball,  but  for  large  pots 
give  an  inch  space.  When  potting  is  completed,  well  water  the  plant 
through  a  rose  to  settle  the  soil  thoroughly  in  its  place,  and,  where  it 
can  be  managed,  newly  potted  plants  are  benefited  by  being  kept  rather 
closer  for  a  few  days  until  the  roots  recover  from  the  check  they  have 
experienced.  When  several  cuttings  and  seedlings  are  together  in  one  pot, 
the  operation  of  separating  and  putting  them  into  single  pots  is  known  as — 

Potting  Off.— This  should  take  place  before  the  roots  get  much 
matted  together,  otherwise  bruising  will  result  when  they  are  disen- 
tangled. Potting  off  means  turning  the  ball  of  earth  out  of  the  pot, 
and  singling  out  each  plant  with  as  little  damage  to  the  roots  as  possible. 
Then  repot  in  suitable  soil,  burying  the  naked  stem  of  seedlings  almost 
to  the  cotyledons.  For  cuttings  or  seedlings  pots  from  three  inches  to 
four  inches  in  diameter  are  suitable,  and  as  just  advised  in  the  case  of 
those  that  are  repotted,  the  young  plants  should  be  kept  rather  close 
and  shaded  for  a  few  days  until  they  take  hold  of  the  new  soil.  Plants 
that  have  sustained  a  check  at  the  roots,  and  sometimes  this  is  un- 
avoidable, are  much  refreshed  by  light  syringings,  rapid  evaporation 
being  arrested.  In  the  case  of  plants  with  roots  which  do  not  take  a 
very  firm  hold  of  the  soil,  moving  them  about  will  result  in  injury  unless 
the  stems  are  secured  to  a  stick.  The  stake  should  be  rounded  and 
thoroughly  pointed  to  avoid  injury  to  the  roots.  Then  push  it  down  to 
the  bottom  of  the  pot  perpendicularly,  otherwise  when  it  is  withdrawn 
and  reinserted  damage  to  the  roots  may  result.  In  tying  plants,  particu- 
larly those  of  quick  growth,  future  growth  must  be  allowed  for,  so  that 
whether  the  material  used  be  raffia,  thread,  or  string,  it  must  not  be 
tied  too  tightly  round  the  growing  shoots. 

General  Treatment  of  the  Greenhouse  throughout  the  Year. — 
Position  and  other  surrounding  features  will  to  some  extent  influence 
the  treatment  to  which  the  occupants  of  the  greenhouse  are  subjected, 
for  in  some  places  a  drier  atmosphere  exists  than  in  others.  During  the 
winter  greenhouse  plants  are  partially  at  rest  as  a  rule,  hence  they  must 
be  kept  drier  than  when  in  active  growth.  At  the  same  time  extreme 
drought  will  work  considerable  havoc,  for  it  is  necessary  to  keep  the  soil 
moderately  moist.  Such  things  as  Tulips,  Hyacinths,  Azaleas,  and 
others,  with  flowers  that  develop  in  the  spring  need,  of  course,  more 
water  than  plants  at  rest.  Too  great  a  heat  must  be  avoided ;  a  mini- 


292  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

mum  night  temperature  of  45  degrees  with  a  rise  of  5  degrees  to  10  degrees 
during  the  daytime  being  sufficient.  When  the  weather  is  very  severe 
the  thermometer  may  fall  five  degrees  lower  than  the  temperatures 
given  without  injury.  As  spring  advances  and  the  sun  gains  power  a 
moister  atmosphere  is  necessary,  and  to  maintain  this  the  plants  should 
be  occasionally  syringed,  and  the  floor  and  exposed  portion  of  the  stages 
damped.  By  the  middle  of  March  if  the  greenhouse  is  fully  exposed  to 
the  sun,  shading  for  a  few  hours  during  the  brightest  part  of  the  day  is 
beneficial  to  plants  in  flower,  and  unless  the  structure  is  differently 
situated,  it  may  be  kept  up  until  October.  Shading,  however,  should 
only  be  given  as  a  protection  from  the  full  sun,  because,  used  at  any 
other  time,  it  tends  to  weaken  the  plants.  Permanent  shading  alluded 
to  previously  cannot  be  recommended  for  this  reason.  By  the  end  of 
May  many  greenhouse  plants  that  have  finished  flowering  may  be  placed 
out  of  doors,  and  the  structure  used  for  numerous  summer  blooming 
plants.  Such  things  as  Azaleas,  Heaths,  and  Rhododendrons  set  their 
buds  in  preparation  for  a  future  display  of  bloom  more  readily  in  the 
open  air  than  when  grown  altogether  under  glass.  Remember,  however, 
that  by  the  end  of  May  the  sun  is  very  powerful.  Shading  from  bright 
sunshine  will  be  necessary  for  a  few  days  for  the  plants  brought  from  the 
greenhouse,  otherwise  the  foliage  is  apt  to  turn  brown,  and  being  per- 
manent, injury  of  this  kind  is  serious.  Water  must  be  cautiously  given 
to  greenhouse  plants  placed  out  of  doors,  particularly  during  showery 
weather,  for  with  the  surface  slightly  moistened,  one  is  apt  to  be  de- 
ceived as  to  the  condition  of  the  soil,  and  two  or  three  hours'  sunshine 
and  wind  will  work  havoc.  As  worms  quickly  injure  many  plants  by 
choking  up  the  drainage,  stand  the  pots  on  a  firm  and  level  bed  of  coal 
ashes  or  some  other  rough  material.  The  trouble  of  watering  is  greatly 
lessened  if  the  pots  are  plunged,  but  this  should  not  be  done  in  ordinary 
garden  soil.  Ashes  are  vastly  preferable,  or  cocoanut  fibre  refuse  may  be 
used.  About  the  middle  of  September  is  a  good  time  to  return  again  to 
the  greenhouse  those  plants  that  have  spent  the  summer  out  of  doors, 
as  by  then  frosts  and  heavy  rains  frequently  occur.  A  free  circulation 
of  air  should,  if  possible,  be  allowed  for  a  week  or  two  after  their  change 
of  quarters,  as  if  kept  too  close  many  leaves  are  liable  to  drop. 

Insect  Pests  were  at  one  time  a  source  of  great  tribulation  when 
the  only  method  of  destroying  aphides  or  green-fly  was  by  means  of 
fumigation,  but  the  different  forms  of  vaporising — that  is,  distributing 
the  nicotine  in  the  form  of  steam — are  now  so  simple  and  effectual  as  to 
occasion  no  personal  discomfort  whatever.  The  XL-All  Vaporiser  has 
been  before  the  public  for  some  years,  and  grows  in  favour.  A  small 
spirit-lamp  is  the  medium  of  disseminating  the  steam.  Not  only  are 
aphides  destroyed  by  this  insecticide,  but  thrips  also,  while  mealy-bug  is 
greatly  checked  by  its  occasional  use.  Scale  that  stick  principally  on  the 
under  sides  of  the  leaves  and  on  the  stems  may  be  removed  by  one  of  the 
various  washes  sold  for  the  purpose,  but  the  greatest  care  must  be  taken 
to  carefully  follow  the  instructions  given  with  the  preparation.  It  is 
always  safe  to  err  on  the  weak  side. 


USEFUL  GREENHOUSE  PLANTS 


BELOW  is  given  a  list  of  the  finer  greenhouse  plants,  with 
simple  directions  as  to  their  culture. 

Abutilon. — The  Abutilons  are  shrubby  plants  six  feet  or  more  high, 
and  will  flower  well  when  about  eighteen  inches  high,  and  in  pots  five 
inches  or  six  inches  in  diameter.  They  are  also  valuable  for  training  to 
the  roof  of  a  greenhouse,  or  for  clothing  the  back  wall  of  that  structure, 
in  which  positions  their  drooping,  bell-shaped  blossoms  are  seen  to  ad- 
vantage. The  flowers  vary  in  colour  from  white  to  deep  red,  through 
different  shades  of  yellow  and  pink,  while  in  a  few  kinds  the  leaves  are 
prettily  variegated.  In  a  warm  structure  they  will  flower  almost 
throughout  the  year,  but  in  an  ordinary  greenhouse  need  much  the  same 
treatment  as  a  Fuchsia.  Cuttings  strike  root  readily  by  following 
general  details  previously  given,  and  ordinary  potting  soil  will  suffice 
for  their  successful  culture.  A  few  good  kinds  are : — Boule  de  Neige, 
white  ;  Golden  Fleece,  yellow  ;  Royal  Scarlet,  and  Sanglant,  red  ;  Anna 
Crozy,  pink ;  Emperor,  purplish.  With  variegated  leaves — Darwini 
tessellatum,  Ncevium  marmoratum,  Sellowianum  variegatum,  Souvenir  de 
Bonn,  Sowitzi,  Thomsoni,  and  Vexillarium  variegatum.  The  white 
Boule  de  Neige  is  as  useful  as  any ;  its  bell-like  flowers  are  quite  white, 
and  vigorous  plants  seems  always  in  bloom. 

Acacia. — A  family  of  trees  and  shrubs,  for  the  most  part  natives  of 
Australia,  and  producing  their  yellow  flowers  during  the  spring  months. 
They  succeed  in  a  mixture  of  equal  parts  of  loam  and  peat,  with  a 
little  sand.  Cuttings  are  difficult  to  strike  except  in  nurseries,  where 
there  are  ample  appliances  for  the  purpose ;  and  though  seeds  can  often 
be  obtained,  plants  raised  in  this  way  must  attain  a  large  size  before 
they  flower.  Acacia  dealbata  is  the  plant  so  well  known  as  "  Mimosa," 
cut  sprays  of  which  form  such  a  familiar  object  in  London  and  provincial 
towns  during  the  early  months  of  the  year.  They  are  sent  from  the 
Mediterranean  shore,  where  this  Acacia  grows  into  large  trees.  The 
following  kinds  produce  thin  little  globular  tufts  of  golden  blossom  in 
great  profusion,  even  when  the  plants  are  quite  small :  Acacia  armata, 
grandis,  platyptera,  and  pulchella,  while  in  A.  Drummondi  the  flower 
clusters  are  in  the  shape  of  a  bottle  brush.  A.  riceana  is  a  pretty  climbing 
kind,  with  pale  yellow  blossoms.  All  the  Acacias  may  be  placed  out  of 
doors  during  the  summer  months. 

Achimenes.— Pretty,  little,  soft  growing  plants  that  flower  during 

293 


294  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

the  summer  and  pass  the  winter  in  a  dormant  state,  when  they  must  be 
kept  dry.  The  underground  portion  consists  of  small,  elongated  tubers, 
which  about  March  should  be  shaken  away  from  the  old  soil,  and  re- 
potted in  a  mixture  of  equal  parts  of  loam  and  leaf -mould  with  a  little 
sand.  Half  a  dozen  tubers  may  be  put  in  pots  five  inches  in  diameter, 
and  these  are  sufficiently  large  for  the  Achimenes.  When  larger  masses 
are  desired  deep  pans  may  be  used.  They  are  also  suitable  for  hanging 
baskets.  In  a  warm  house  Achimenes  will  flower  by  the  end  of  spring, 
but  in  a  greenhouse  they  are  at  their  best  during  the  latter  half  of 
the  summer.  The  flowers  of  all  consist  of  a  narrow  tube,  and  a  widely 
expanded  mouth.  The  varieties  are  numerous  with  white,  pink,  mauve, 
scarlet,  and  purple  blossoms. 

African  Lily.    See  Agapanthus. 

Agapanthus.— Plants  of  bold  growth  with  long,  strap-shaped  leaves, 
from  among  which  are  pushed  up  during  the  summer  heads  of  pretty 
blue  flowers,  borne  on  stems  three  feet  or  four  feet  high.  The  commonest 
is  A.  umbellatus,  to  which  the  white  albus  affords  a  pleasing  change. 
There  is  also  a  double-flowered  kind  (flore  plena),  while  the  miniature 
form  known  as  minor  is  worth  growing  for  the  sake  of  variety.  The 
Agapanthuses  are  useful  for  large  pots  or  tubs  for  standing  out  of 
doors  on  steps,  terraces,  or  similar  positions  during  the  summer  months, 
and  the  flowers  appear  at  that  time.  These  tub  specimens  will  keep 
in  health  for  years  without  repotting,  indeed,  they  do  much  better  when 
the  roots  are  closely  confined.  Agapanthuses  are  dormant  during  the 
winter,  when  they  can  be  successfully  wintered  under  the  stage  of  a  green- 
house, in  a  shed,  coach-house,  or  similar  position,  providing  they  are 
free  from  frost.  Ordinary  potting-soil  is  suitable. 

Agathsea  ccelestis. —  A  free-flowering  shrubby  plant  about  eighteen 
inches  high,  that  bears  throughout  the  greater  part  of  the  year  Daisy- 
like  flowers  of  a  pleasing  shade  of  light  blue.  Known  as  the  Blue 
Marguerite.  Likes  loam  with  a  little  peat  and  sand. 

Agave. — The  best  known  of  the  Agaves  (a  numerous  class)  is  the 
American  Aloe  (Agave  americana),  a  plant  of  symmetrical  growth,  and 
with  huge  fleshy  leaves,  furnished  with  large  spines,  disposed  naturally 
in  the  shape  of  an  immense  rosette.  It  is  sometimes  called  the  Century 
Plant,  from  its  reputed  habit  of  never  flowering  until  a  hundred  years 
have  elapsed.  This  is  quite  a  mistake,  as  the  most  casual  observer 
knows.  The  leaves  contain  a  strong  fibre  which  is  very  valuable  for 
rope-making.  There  is  a  variegated  variety  in  which  the  leaves  are 
striped  with  pale  yellow.  The  American  Aloe  is  just  the  thing  for  stand* 
ing  on  steps,  balconies,  &c.,  as  advised  in  the  case  of  the  Agapanthus. 
Loam,  sand,  and  some  small  pieces  of  old  crushed  bricks  suit  the  Agave. 
Aloysia  citriodora. — The  lemon  Verbena,  or  Sweet  Verbena,  as 
this  is  often  called,  is  popular,  and  no  wonder,  for  its  leaves  are  delight- 
fully fragrant.  In  the  milder  districts  of  England  it  may  be  trained  to 
a  wall  outside,  but  in  most  parts  it  needs  the  protection  of  a  greenhouse, 
where,  with  the  same  treatment  as  a  Fuchsia,  it  succeeds  perfectly 
Cuttings  of  the  young  shoots  should  be  taken  in  the  spring.  The  leaves 


USEFUL  GREENHOUSE   PLANTS         295 

when  bruised  give  off  an  odour  of  fresh  ripe  lemons.  Soil :  loam,  peat, 
and  sand. 

Amaryllis.    See  Hippeastrum. 

American  Aloe.    See  Agave  americana. 

Aralia  Sieboldi. — This  is  a  stout  growing  plant,  with  large  deep 
green  leathery  leaves.  It  is  easily  grown,  is  hardy  in  many  districts,  and 
most  useful  for  sitting-rooms,  draughty  corridors,  and  similar  places.  It 
is  often  confounded  with  the  Castor  Oil  Plant  (Ricinus),  a  quite  different 
thing.  There  is  a  variegated  form  of  this  Aralia  in  which  the  leaves  are 
marked  with  white.  Ordinary  potting-soil. 

Araucaria. — A  class  of  large  trees  nearly  related  to  the  Firs,  and 
very  symmetrical  in  growth.  The  most  generally  grown  is  the  Norfolk 
Island  Pine  (A  excelsa),  which  has  bright  green  branches  produced  in 
regular  tiers.  This  plant  must  not  be  put  in  too  large  a  pot,  as  effective 
specimens  may  be  grown  in  a  comparatively  small  size.  Other  rarer 
kinds  are  A.  Bidwilli,  A.  Cunningham!,  and  A.  Cooki.  Ordinary  potting- 
soil. 

Arum  Lily.    See  Richardia. 

Asparagus. — A  beautiful  class  of  climbing  plants,  many  of  which 
are  remarkable  for  their  delicate,  frond-like  branches.  From  this  cir- 
cumstance A.  plumosus  nanus  is  known  as  the  Asparagus  Fern,  though 
it  is  in  no  way  related  to  the  Fern  family.  Grown  in  small  pots  these 
make  effective  decorative  plants  for  a  long  while  before  they  commence 
to  climb.  They  need  ordinary  potting  compost,  and  should  be  freely 
syringed  during  the  summer  months.  The  best  are  A.  plumosus,  A. 
plumosus  nanus,  A.  retrofractus,  A.  Sprengeri,  and  A.  tenuissimus. 

Asparagus  Fern.    See  Asparagus. 

Aspidistra  lurida. — A  well-known  and  popular  plant  for  the 
dwelling-house,  with  dark  green  leathery  leaves.  There  is  also  a  varie- 
gated variety.  No  plant  is  more  useful  for  smoky  towns  and  under 
other  adverse  conditions ;  its  principal  requirements  are  an  occasional 
sponging  and  water  when  necessary.  It  succeeds  in  ordinary  potting 
compost,  and  is  increased  by  division,  which  should  be  carried  out 
during  the  latter  part  of  April  or  early  in  May. 

Azalea. — The  species  that  requires  the  protection  of  a  greenhouse 
is  that  known  as  the  Indian  Azalea,  of  which  there  are  many  varieties, 
the  different  tints  of  white,  pink,  purplish-rose,  and  bright  red  being 
represented.  They  are  largely  grown  in  Belgium,  and  are  sent  to  this 
country  every  autumn  in  considerable  quantities  in  the  shape  of  neat 
little  bushes  studded  with  flower-buds.  They  are  usually  grafted  on  to 
clear  stems  from  six  inches  to  nine  inches  high.  When  received  these 
Azaleas  are  potted  firmly  into  sandy  peat,  and  placed  in  the  greenhouse, 
where,  if  properly  supplied  with  water  and  occasionally  syringed,  the 
roots  will  soon  start  into  the  new  soil.  They  flower  during  the  spring 
months,  and  to  have  them  in  good  condition  for  the  following  season 
directly  the  blossoms  are  over,  straggling  branches  must  be  cut  back. 
Then,  as  soon  as  young  shoots  are  visible  on  the  cut  portions,  the 
plant  must  be  potted  if  necessary.  For  this  purpose  sandy  peat  alone 


296  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

should  be  used,  and  in  potting  it  must  be  rammed  down  firmly.  The 
plants  must  then  be  returned  to  the  greenhouse  for  a  time,  carefully 
watered,  and  liberally  syringed.  Never  use  too  large  a  pot,  and  as  the 
plants  get  old  they  will  stand  for  years,  keep  in  good  health,  and  flower 
well,  without  being  disturbed  at  the  roots.  Whether  repotted  or  not 
the  Azaleas  must,  after  flowering,  be  syringed  three  or  four  times  a  day 
if  possible,  except  during  dull  weather,  to  encourage  a  free  growth.  By 
the  end  of  May  or  in  June  place  them  out  of  doors,  and  lightly  shade 
them  at  first  from  the  full  rays  of  the  sun.  Take  care  that  they  are 
well  supplied  with  water  throughout  the  summer,  and  syringe  morning 
and  evening.  Under  such  conditions  the  plants  will  not  only  grow 
freely  but  plenty  of  flower-buds  will  appear,  which,  during  the  follow- 
ing spring,  will  expand  and  make  a  bright  display.  Get  the  plants 
under  cover  before  the  autumn  frosts.  So  treated  Azaleas  may  be  kept 
year  after  year  in  good  condition.  In  a  too  dry  atmosphere  the  leaves 
are  liable  to  an  attack  of  thrips,  which  can  be  eradicated  in  the  way 
previously  advised. 

Balsam.    See  Impatiens. 

Begonia. — The  Begonias  form  an  extensive  class,  which  may  be 
readily  divided  up  into  several  distinct  sections.  First,  we  have  the 
tuberous-rooted  varieties,  single  and  double,  which  are  now  so  popular 
both  for  bedding  out  and  for  the  greenhouse  ;  then  there  are  the  dwarf- 
growing  forms  of  B.  semperflorens ,  which  are  much  used  for  bedding,  and 
the  several  distinct  kinds,  valuable  for  their  winter  flowers,  which  in  many 
instances  are  also  produced  in  spring.  Lastly,  we  have  the  numerous 
forms  of  B.  Rex,  remarkable  for  their  large,  handsomely-marked  leaves. 
B.  Rex  is  more  delicate  than  the  others,  and  although  the  plant  will 
succeed  in  the  greenhouse  during  the  summer  it  cannot  be  depended 
upon  to  successfully  pass  the  winter  in  that  structure,  though  if  the 
thermometer  does  not  go  below  45  degrees,  and  the  atmosphere  is  at  the 
time  fairly  dry,  the  more  robust  kinds  of  this  section  will,  as  a  rule,  be 
safe.  Tuberous-rooted  Begonias  are  generally  increased  by  seeds  sown 
early  in  the  spring,  though  the  particularly  choice  forms  are  propagated 
by  cuttings.  The  seed  is  very  minute,  and  full  directions  for  sowing  it 
are  given  on  p.  287. 

Tuberous  Begonias,  particularly  in  a  young  state,  prefer  a  light  com- 
post ;  hence  a  mixture  of  equal  parts  of  loam  and  leaf-mould  with  a  little 
sand  will  suit  them  well.  After  the  seeds  germinate  and  the  young  plants 
are  pricked  off  into  a  pot  or  pan,  the  next  shift  will  be  into  pots  three 
inches  in  diameter.  When  they  are  large  enough  they  should  be  shifted 
into  pots  five  inches  in  diameter,  and  unless  there  are  a  few  specimens 
of  exceptionable  vigour  this  size  of  pot  will  be  sufficient  for  the  first  season. 
Plants  raised  in  this  way  will,  as  a  rule,  flower  well  during  the  latter  half 
of  the  summer,  particularly  if  they  have  a  dose  of  weak  liquid  manure 
every  fortnight  after  the  pots  get  full  of  roots.  In  the  autumn  as  the 
plants  go  to  rest  the  water  supply  must  be  diminished,  and  the  under- 
ground tubers  will  pass  the  winter  in  a  dry  state,  provided  they  are  not 
parched  up.  A  fairly  cool  spot,  where  they  are  quite  free  from  frost,  is 


USEFUL  GREENHOUSE   PLANTS          297 

just  the  place  for  wintering  tubers  of  Begonia,  such  as  underneath  the 
stage  of  the  greenhouse,  where  it  is  free  from  drip,  or  a  moderately  dry 
cellar  may  be  utilised  for  the  purpose.  Where  the  Begonias  are  few  in 
number  they  may  be  allowed  to  remain  throughout  the  winter  in  the 
pots  they  have  grown  in ;  but  in  the  case  of  a  considerable  quantity 
economise  the  space  by  turning  them  out  of  the  pots,  freeing  the  tubers 
from  the  old  soil,  and  laying  them  thickly  in  a  shallow  box  or  pan,  then 
covering  them  with  some  dry  mould.  The  size  of  first  season's  tubers 
will  vary  from  that  of  a  farthing  to  a  penny,  and  when  these  are  grown  on 
the  second  season  they  yield  the  best  results.  March  is  a  good  month 
to  take  them  from  their  winter's  quarters  and  repot.  They  should  be  put 
into  small  pots  at  first,  and  shifted  into  larger  ones  as  soon  as  required. 
After  the  tubers  are  potted  the  soil  should  be  kept  slightly  moist  until 
the  young  growth  appears  above  ground.  When  too  wet  some  of  the 
tubers  will  decay.  The  double-flowered  varieties  may  to  a  certain  extent 
be  increased  by  seeds,  but  particular  forms  cannot  be  propagated  in  this 
way.  When  the  seed  is  saved  from  the  finest  double  flowers  it  will  be 
necessary  to  fall  back  upon  the  semi-double  blossoms  to  supply  the  pollen. 
Artificial  fertilisation  is  needful  to  insure  the  production  of  good  seed, 
hence  the  progeny  will  be  somewhat  mixed.  Both  the  single  and  double 
kinds  can  be  propagated  by  cuttings  put  in  during  the  spring  months. 
When  Begonias  are  used  for  bedding,  lift  them  at  the  first  sign  of  frost, 
and  lay  them  out  for  a  few  days  on  the  greenhouse  stage  or  in  a  similar 
position  to  dry.  The  stout  succulent  stems  will  in  a  short  time  drop 
away  from  the  tubers,  which  can  then  be  laid  in  boxes  of  soil  as  re- 
commended above. 

The  dwarf-growing  forms  of  Begonia  semperflorens  are  more  grown 
for  bedding  than  for  the  greenhouse.  One  of  the  best  known  is  Vernon, 
which  is  only  a  few  inches  high.  The  flowers  are  red,  while  the  leaves 
become  tinged  with  crimson  of  various  shades,  according  to  the  season 
and  the  position  in  which  they  are  placed. 

An  extensive  class  consists  for  the  most  part  of  varieties  with  fibrous 
(not  tuberous)  roots,  the  majority  of  which  are  of  considerable  value  for 
the  winter.  Some  of  them  have  a  thickened  root  stock,  but  they  do 
not  produce  tubers  like  the  summer-flowering  kinds.  These  must  be 
grown  on  during  the  summer  and  early  autumn,  and  as  the  pots  get  full 
of  roots  weak  liquid  manure  once  a  fortnight  will  be  helpful.  To  flower 
these  Begonias  well  a  minimum  temperature  of  50  degrees  during  the  winter 
is  necessary.  The  best  of  this  class  are  Carrieri,  white ;  Gloire  de  Sceaux, 
pink  ;  Ensign,  rose  ;  Fuchsioides,  bright  red  ;  Lynchiana,  red  ;  Paul 
Bruant,  deep  rose  ;  Weltoniensis,  pink ;  and  Knowsleyana,  blush.  The 
winter-flowering  varieties  obtained  by  the  intercrossing  of  Begonia 
socotrana  and  other  kinds  form  a  numerous  and  much  appreciated  class. 
After  the  flowering  season  is  over  they  need  a  period  of  rest  by  being  kept 
rather  dry  and  somewhat  cooler  than  before.  After  that  as  spring  ad- 
vances they  will,  under  the  influence  of  additional  moisture  and  a  higher 
temperature,  push  out  young  shoots  freely.  Taken  as  cuttings  these 
will  soon  root,  and  shifted  into  larger  pots  when  necessary  will  form  good 


298  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

flowering  plants  by  autumn.  To  this  class  belong :  Gloire  de  Lorraine, 
pink ;  Turnford  Hall,  blush  ;  Glory  of  Cincinnati,  rose  ;  Elatior,  rosy- 
carmine  ;  Emily  Clibran,  orange-salmon ;  John  Heal,  carmine-rose ; 
Mrs.  Clibran,  soft  pink  ;  Mrs.  Heal,  carmine-scarlet ;  and  Winter  Glow, 
fiery  red. 

Bermuda  Butter-cup.    See  Oxalis  cemua. 

Blue  Gum.    See  Eucalyptus  globulus. 

Boronia. — This  is  a  class  of  hard  wooded  plants,  natives  of  Australia, 
and  needing  much  the  same  treatment  as  that  recommended  for  the 
Indian  Azalea.  The  best  Boronias  are  :  B.  elatior,  rosy-red  ;  B.  hetero- 
phylla,  carmine,  a  very  pretty  flower ;  and  B.  megastigma,  with  small, 
powerfully  and  sweetly-scented,  brownish-yellow,  bell-shaped  flowers. 
All  form  neat  little  bushes,  and  all  flower  in  the  spring. 

Bottle  Brush  Plant.    See  Callistemon  salignus. 

Bouvardia. — A  popular  class  of  greenhouse  shrubs  that  may  be 
propagated  from  cuttings  of  the  young  shoots  in  the  spring  after  the 
manner  of  a  Fuchsia,  grown  on  during  the  summer,  and  will  flower  in 
the  autumn  and  winter.  Their  neat  clusters  of  wax-like  flowers  are  in 
great  favour  for  button-holes  and  similar  purposes.  The  pure  white 
B.  Humboldti  corymbiflora  has  deliciously  fragrant  blossoms.  Others 
are :  Hogarth,  scarlet ;  Mrs.  Green,  salmon ;  President  Cleveland, 
brilliant  scarlet ;  Queen  of  Roses,  pink ;  and  Vreelandi,  white.  Alfred 
Neuner,  white ;  President  Garfield,  pink ;  and  Hogarth  fl.  pi.,  have 
double  blossoms.  Soil :  loam,  leaf-soil,  decayed  cow-manure,  and  sand. 

Browallia. — An  easily  grown  free-flowering  class  of  plants,  the  best 
of  which  are :  data,  deep  blue ;  speciosa,  bluish-violet ;  and  viscosa,  deep 
blue,  white  eye.  Ordinary  potting-soil. 

Calceolaria. — The  showiest  and  most  popular  Calceolarias,  or 
Slipperworts,  as  they  are  sometimes  called,  are  known  as  "  herbaceous," 
in  which  the  large,  inflated  pouches,  suggesting  in  shape  a  fisherman's 
basket,  are  richly  and  quaintly  coloured*  Herbaceous  Calceolarias  are 
raised  from  seeds,  the  best  time  of  the  year  to  sow  being  about  mid- 
summer, and  the  young  plants  so  obtained  will  flower  during  the  follow- 
ing spring.  The  seeds  are  very  minute,  hence  they  should  be  sown 
as  advised  for  such  seeds  mentioned  on  p.  287.  When  the  young 
plants  are  large  enough  to  handle  prick  them  off  into  pots  or  pans, 
and  when  sufficiently  advanced  transfer  singly  to  small  pots.  A 
mixture  of  equal  parts  of  loam  and  leaf-mould  with  a  little  sand  will  suit 
them  well  for  the  first  potting,  after  which  the  amount  of  loam  should 
be  increased.  The  young  plants  must  be  kept  in  a  light,  airy  position 
to  prevent  a  weakly  growth.  Pots  six  inches  in  diameter  are  suitable 
to  flower  the  plants  in,  and  the  strongest  may  be  put  in  their  flower- 
ing pots  by  the  end  of  the  summer,  while  the  smallest  should  be  left 
until  early  in  March,  when  they  will  form  a  succession.  In  all  stages 
aphides  or  green-fly  must  be  especially  guarded  against,  as  they  soon  ruin 
the  plants,  but  are  easily  kept  down  by  vaporising.  The  varieties  with 
smaller  flowers,  generally  yellow,  but  sometimes  reddish,  are  of  a  more 
woody  texture  than  the  herbaceous  kinds,  and  can  be  struck  from  cuttings 


A    HANGING   PLANT   OF   CAMPANULA    ISOPHYLLA 
This  measured  5  ft.  3  in.  from  base  to  summit. 


ALBA. 


USEFUL  GREENHOUSE   PLANTS         299 

in  the  spring  in  the  way  of  a  Fuchsia.  They  are  often  used  for  bedding 
out,  but  can  also  be  well  grown  in  pots,  for  which  purpose  some  of  them 
are  admirably  adapted.  Summer  flowering  kinds  are  the  distinct  creamy- 
white  Veitchii  and  the  rich  yellow  Clibranii,  which  is  in  growth  one  of  the 
most  graceful  of  all  Calceolarias.  Two  distinct  kinds — C.  deflexa  and 
C.  amplexicaulis — will  flower  during  the  autumn  and  winter,  as  also  will 
C.  Burbidgei.  The  two  last  named  are  often  used  for  summer  bedding. 

Calla.    See  Richardia. 

Callistemon  saligmis.— This,  often  known  as  Metrosideros  flori- 
bunda,  is  called  the  Bottle  Brush  Plant.  The  flowers,  with  their  long 
scarlet  stamens,  are  arranged  around  the  shoots  in  the  form  of  a  bottle 
brush.  It  needs  the  same  treatment  and  soil  as  an  Azalea. 

|Camellia. — The  shining  green  leaves  of  the  Camellia  are  ornamental 
at  all  seasons,  and  in  spring,  when  the  flowers  appear,  the  different 
varieties  are  bright  and  effective.  Many  of  the  Camellias  are  hardy  in 
several  parts  of  the  country,  hence  a  cool  greenhouse  is  all  that  they 
require.  After  the  flowering  season  is  past  they  may  be  kept  under 
glass  until  the  middle  of  June  to  allow  the  young  shoots  to  become 
moderately  firm,  when  they  should  be  placed  out  of  doors  until  the 
autumn,  and  if  possible  in  a  position  where  they  are  somewhat  shaded 
from  the  full  rays  of  the  sun.  A  mixture  of  two-thirds  loam  to  one- 
third  peat  with  a  little  sand  will  suit  them  well,  but  take  care  not  to 
put  them  in  too  large  a  pot,  as  the  Camellia  will  stand  for  years  and 
flower  well  without  being  shifted.  As  the  buds  develop  a  little  weak 
liquid  manure  will  be  of  service,  while  bud  dropping,  frequently  a  source 
of  trouble,  is  often  caused  by  an  insufficient  circulation  of  air.  Apart 
from  its  culture  in  pots  or  tubs,  the  Camellia  does  well  planted  out  in  the 
greenhouse  or  conservatory,  provided  a  well-drained  border  is  prepared 
for  the  roots.  For  covering  a  back  wall  it  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
plants  we  have,  as  winter  and  summer  alike  it  is  clothed  with  foliage. 
There  is  a  long  list  of  varieties,  the  old  double  white  (alba  plena)  being 
still  a  general  favourite.  Single -flowered  Camellias  continue  to  increase 
in  popularity,  the  blossoms  being  altogether  lighter  and  more  elegant 
than  the  double  ones,  and  the  central  tuft  of  golden  anthers  impart  quite 
an  additional  feature  to  the  flower.  Good  single  kinds  are  alba  simplex, 
white  ;  Jupiter,  rosy-red ;  Mercury,  crimson  ;  Mars,  rosy-red ;  Snow- 
flake,  pure  white  ;  and  Waltham  Glory,  deep  scarlet. 

Campanula. — Most  of  the  Campanulas,  or  Canterbury  Bells,  are 
hardy,  but  the  creeping  kinds — C.  isophylla,  with  blue  flowers,  and  C. 
isophylla  alba}  with  white,  as  well  as  the  newer  C.  Mayi,  with  hoary  leaves 
and  pretty  porcelain  blue  bells,  form  delightful  plants  when  grown  in 
suspended  pots  or  baskets,  and  with  attention  they  will  flower  through- 
out the  greater  part  of  the  summer.  They  are  increased  by  dividing 
the  plants  in  the  spring  just  before  growth  recommences.  The  peach- 
leaved  Bellflower  (C.  persicifolia),  and  its  varieties,  grandiflora,  in  par- 
ticular, are  well  adapted  for  pot  culture.  The  Chimney  Bellflower 
(C.  pyramidalis)  is  also  useful,  and  it  is  surprising  that  amateurs  do  not 
grow  plants  of  such  pronounced  beauty  more  freely.  It  is  simply  neces- 


300  GARDENING   FOR  BEGINNERS 

sary  to  sow  seeds  in  pans  in  a  cold  frame  in  March,  and  when  the  seedlings 
are  of  sufficient  size  prick  them  out  into  the  border,  choosing  a  rich  bit 
of  ground,  and  there  they  may  remain  until  the  following  spring.  Then 
they  must  be  lifted,  potted,  and  placed  in  the  open  air  until  the  flower- 
spikes  are  seen.  It  is  wise  then  to  transfer  them  to  the  greenhouse. 
The  species  is  quite  tall,  six  feet  to  seven  feet,  but  by  selection  a  dwarf 
strain  has  been  got,  and  the  blue  and  white  colouring  of  the  flowers  is 
very  pretty.  In  potting  the  plants,  pot  firmly,  and  use  for  soil  a  mixture 
of  half  sandy  loam,  and  a  quarter-part  each  of  road-grit  and  leaf-mould. 
It  is  most  important  to  give  water  judiciously.  An  over-supply  for  any 
length  of  time  will  result  in  absolute  failure,  and  a  little  soot  water 
occasionally  will  assist  growth.  When  the  spikes  are  running  up  weak 
liquid  manure  should  be  given,  but  prepared  chiefly  from  cow  droppings, 
not  stable  drainings. 

Canna. — Of  late  years  the  production  of  a  race  of  Cannas  of  dwarfer 
growth,  and  with  larger  flowers  than  those  formerly  used  for  bedding 
out  during  the  summer,  has  led  to  their  frequent  use  for  the  greenhouse 
during  the  summer  and  early  autumn  months.  Many  of  the  flowers  are 
of  gorgeous  colours,  and  though  the  individual  blooms  do  not  last  long, 
a  succession  is  maintained  for  a  considerable  time.  The  plants  need 
liberal  treatment,  a  suitable  compost  being  two-parts  loam  to  one-part 
each  of  leaf-mould  and  manure.  As  the  pots  get  full  of  roots,  liquid 
manure  given  occasionally  is  of  value.  In  winter  the  Cannas  go  to  rest, 
when  the  soil  must  only  be  kept  slightly  moist,  but  quite  free  from  frost. 
On  the  return  of  spring,  shake  the  roots  almost  free  from  the  old  soil, 
and  when  an  increase  of  stock  is  required,  divide  the  underground  stems, 
leaving,  however,  a  bud,  or  eye,  to  each.  Then  repot,  but  take  care  not 
to  over -water  until  growth  recommences. 

Carex. — Pretty  grassy  plants  of  which  there  are  two  or  three  forms 
with  variegated  leaves  that  are  valuable  for  grouping,  and  will  succeed 
in  the  dwelling-house  for  a  long  time.  They  are  of  easy  culture,  and 
need  plenty  of  water  when  growing.  Soil :  loam  and  leaf-soil. 

Cassia  COrymbosa. — An  evergreen  shrub  with  shining  green  pinnate 
leaves  and  clusters  of  golden-yellow  flowers.  It  blooms  over  a  consider- 
able period  of  the  year.  Soil :  loam  and  peat. 

Castor  Oil  Plants.    See  Ricinus. 

Celosia. — The  brilliantly  coloured  plume-like  flowers  of  Celosia 
pyramidalis  are  much  admired,  and  the  plants  are  welcome  in  the  green- 
house, or  bedded  out  of  doors.  The  colours  vary  from  pale  yellow  to 
crimson  through  various  intermediate  shades,  some  of  the  tints  being 
remarkably  vivid.  Another  Celosia  is  the  Cockscomb,  whose  large, 
velvety-like  crimson  heads  are  strangely  picturesque.  All  the  Celosias 
are  sown  in  a  gentle  heat  in  spring,  and  grown  on  freely  in  good,  rich 
soil.  They  are  not  very  easy  to  grow. 

Celsia. — There  are  two  species  of  Celsia,  both  of  which  are  valuable 
for  the  decoration  of  the  greenhouse.  Celsia  cretica  grows  to  a  height 
of  four  to  five  feet,  and  is  studded  for  the  greater  part  of  that  distance 
with  golden-yellow  blossoms,  while  C.  Arcturus  is  only  about  half  the 


USEFUL  GREENHOUSE   PLANTS         301 

height  and  more  branching.  Both  produce  seeds  freely,  which  should 
be  sown  in  spring  in  ordinary  soil. 

Century  Plant.    See  Agave  americana. 

Cherry  Pie.    See  Heliotrope. 

Chqrizema. — A  pretty  class  of  slender  growing  shrubs,  natives  of 
Australia,  all  of  which  bear  in  profusion  small  pea-shaped  blossoms 
of  yellow  or  red  colours.  They  need  much  the  same  treatment  and 
soil  as  the  Indian  Azalea,  which  see. 

Chrysanthemum  frutescens.    See  Marguerite. 

Chrysanthemums.    See  special  chapter,  p.  353. 

Cineraria. — A  wealth  of  blossom  is  furnished  by  the  huge  massive 
heads  of  the  garden  varieties  of  Cineraria,  among  which  many  different 
tints  are  represented.  White  flowers  are,  of  course,  always  popular,  and 
in  direct  contrast  to  this  an  intense  purple-blue  often  occurs  among  the 
Cinerarias.  An  objection  urged  by  some  against  these  Cinerarias  is 
their  lumpy  style  of  growth.  Such  objection,  however,  cannot  be  urged 
against  some  of  the  newer  hybrids,  obtained  by  the  crossing  of  a  few  of 
the  original  species.  These  are  taller  in  growth  than  the  others,  and 
the  individual  flowers  are  much  smaller,  but  they  are  borne  in  great 
profusion,  and  the  entire  plant  is  light  and  graceful.  The  long  sprays, 
too,  are  valuable  for  cutting. 

The  usual  method  of  increasing  the  Cineraria  is  by  means  of  seed, 
which  should  be  sown  about  May,  though,  when  grown  in  quantity,  two 
or  three  sowings  are  needful  to  maintain  a  succession.  The  seed  is  small, 
and  care  should  be  taken  not  to  sow  it  too  thickly.  If  sown  lightly, 
it  will  soon  germinate,  and  when  the  young  plants  are  large  enough  put 
them  out  singly  into  small  pots.  A  light,  airy  position  in  a  frame  will 
suit  them  in  this  stage,  and  when  sufficiently  advanced  they  may  be 
shifted  into  the  pots  in  which  they  are  to  flower.  Some  prefer  pots 
six  inches  in  diameter  for  all  the  Cinerarias,  but  good  examples  may  be 
grown  in  five-inch  size,  using,  however,  the  larger  size  for  the  vigorous 
plants.  A  mixture  of  two-thirds  loam  to  one-third  leaf-mould,  with  a 
little  sand,  is  very  suitable  for  the  Cineraria.  In  all  stages  of  growth 
they  are  liable  to  be  attacked  by  aphides  or  green-fly,  which  quickly 
injure  them ;  but,  at  the  same  time,  these  pests  are  easily  kept  under 
by  vaporising. 

Clematis. — The  different  forms  of  Clematis  are  well  known  as 
beautiful,  hardy  climbers,  but  one  species  (and  a  good  one  too)  requires 
the  protection  of  a  greenhouse.  This  is  Clematis  indivisa,  a  native  of 
New  Zealand ;  its  white,  starry  blossoms,  an  inch  or  so  across,  are 
borne  in  great  profusion  in  March.  It  is  a  free-growing  climber,  and 
for  training  to  the  roof  or  rafter  of  a  greenhouse  is  most  useful.  C.  i. 
lobaia  is  a  good  form  of  it.  Good  rich  loam  with  a  little  peat  is  suitable 
soil. 

Cobsea  SCandens. — A  very  strong-growing  climbing  plant,  suitable 
for  clothing  large  spaces.  The  purplish-coloured,  bell-shaped  blossoms 
appear  freely  during  the  summer  months.  There  is  a  pretty  variety  of 
this  with  variegated  leaves.  Ordinary  potting-soil. 


302  GARDENING   FOR  BEGINNERS 

Cockscomb.    See  Celosia. 

Coleus. — A  class  of  plants  with  prettily  marked  leaves,  some  of 
which  form  a  pleasing  feature  in  the  greenhouse  during  the  summer. 
They  are  of  very  easy  culture,  and  cuttings  strike  readily  in  the  spring 
in  heat.  Ordinary  potting-soil. 

Cordyline  australis  is  a  plant  of  symmetrical  growth,  with  long 
ribbon-like  leaves.  It  is  suitable  for  vases,  pedestals,  or  prominent 
positions,  as  the  long,  arching  leaves  are  then  seen  to  great  advantage. 
Good  loam  and  leaf-soil. 

Crassula  coccinea. — This,  which  is  also  known  as  Kalosanthes  cocci- 
nea,  is  a  succulent  plant  that  needs  much  the  same  treatment  as  a  Pelar- 
gonium. It  grows  about  eighteen  inches  high,  and  the  tubular  flowers 
are  borne  in  clusters  on  the  point  of  every  shoot.  In  the  common  kind 
they  are  deep  scarlet  in  colour,  but  there  are  pink  and  white  forms. 
Soil :  loam  and  sand  with  a  little  old  mortar. 

Cyclamen  persicum  (Persian  Cyclamen). — The  forms  of  Cyclamen 
now  in  cultivation  are  endless,  and  the  difference  is  not  restricted  to  the 
flowers  alone,  as  the  leaves  are  richly  marked.  During  the  winter  the 
Cyclamen  is  particularly  valuable,  and  is  obtained  from  seed  sown  in 
July.  When  large  enough  to  handle,  the  plants  must  be  potted  singly 
into  small  pots,  and  shifted  on  when  necessary.  Pots  five  inches  or  six 
inches  in  diameter  are  large  enough  for  them  to  flower  in.  Good  flowering 
plants  can  be  obtained  in  from  fifteen  to  eighteen  months  from  the 
sowing  of  the  seed.  After  blooming,  the  old  corms  should  be  kept 
rather  dry  for  a  time,  then,  about  July,  they  must  be  shaken  clear  of 
the  old  soil  and  repotted.  A  mixture  of  two-parts  loam  to  one-part 
leaf-mould,  with  a  fair  sprinkling  of  well-decayed  cow  manure  and 
sand,  will  suit  the  Cyclamen  well.  There  is  a  pretty  group  with  fringed 
flowers. 

Cyperus  alternifolius.— This  is  about  eighteen  inches  high,  the 
bright  green  stems  being  terminated  by  a  quantity  of  long,  narrow 
leaves,  arranged  like  the  ribs  of  an  umbrella.  There  is  also  a  variety 
with  variegated  leaves.  Being  nearly  related  to  the  Sedges,  this  Cyperus 
needs  a  copious  supply  of  water  and  a  mixture  of  loam  and  peat. 

Cytisus  racemosus.— A  very  popular  greenhouse  shrub  of  which 
neat  flowering  examples  may  be  grown  in  five-inch  pots.  The  sweet- 
scented  golden  flowers  are  borne  in  spring.  Another  species,  namely, 
Cytisus  filipes,  from  Teneriffe,  is  an  exceedingly  graceful  plant.  Its 
flowers  are  white,  and  produced  in  winter  and  spring.  Soil :  sandy  loam. 

Daphne  indica. — This  Daphne  is  a  general  favourite,  because  of 
the  delicious  fragrance  of  its  flowers.  It  is  a  neat-growing  little  ever- 
green that  flowers  in  the  depth  of  winter.  A  mixture  of  loam,  peat, 
and  sand,  and  a  shady  position  in  the  greenhouse,  suit  it  well. 

Echeveria. — Succulent  plants  of  symmetrical  growth,  and  near 
relatives  of  the  House-leek.  A  prominent  feature  of  some  of  the  kinds 
is  the  metallic  or  bluish  tint,  while  one,  E.  fulgens,  has  pretty  nodding 
clusters  of  red  and  yellow  blossoms.  Soil :  loam  with  some  old  mortar. 

Epacris.— The  Australian  representative  of  the  Heath  family,  of 


USEFUL   GREENHOUSE   PLANTS         303 

which  there  are  many  distinct  forms.  They  flower  during  the  early 
months  of  the  year,  at  which  time  the  long  shoots  are  thickly  studded 
for  some  distance  with  pretty  little  tubular-shaped  blossoms.  In  colour 
they  vary  from  white  to  red,  some  of  the  pink  tints  being  very  pleasing. 
All  the  Epacrises  need  very  firm  potting  in  sandy  peat,  and  they  may  be 
placed  out  of  doors  during  the  summer  months.  Directly  after  flower- 
ing, the  long  shoots  should  be  cut  back  to  within  a  couple  of  inches  of 
their  base,  and  as  soon  as  growth  recommences  the  plants  must  be  re- 
potted. They  will  thus  be  well  established  before  the  time  comes  to 
turn  them  out  of  doors.  In  potting  take  care  that  there  is  good  drain- 
age, and  in  all  stages  of  growth  do  not  allow  any  extremes  of  drought  or 
moisture  at  the  roots. 

Erica  (Heath). — This  is  the  Heath  family,  most  of  which  are  natives 
of  South  Africa,  and  though  some  of  them  are  difficult  to  cultivate  suc- 
cessfully, others  may  with  care  be  grown  in  a  satisfactory  manner.  They 
need  much  the  same  treatment  as  the  Epacris  just  mentioned.  Several 
of  them  are  valuable  for  their  winter  flowers,  notably  E.  gracilis,  rosy- 
red  ;  E.  caffra,  white ;  E.  hyemalis,  purplish-rose ;  E.  hyemalis  alba, 
white ;  E.  melanihera,  blush ;  and  E.  willmoreana,  red  and  white. 
Among  the  easiest  grown  of  the  summer-flowering  kinds  are  :  E.  ventri- 
cosa,  pink ;  E.  ventricosa  coccinea,  reddish-pink ;  E.  propendens,  pur- 
plish ;  E.  cavendishiana,  yellow ;  and  E.  spenceriana,  blush.  Though 
very  chaste  and  beautiful,  and  with  care  they  can  be  grown  successfully, 
neither  the  Epacrises  nor  the  Ericas  can  be  exactly  recommended  to  the 
beginner,  at  all  events  till  the  rudiments  of  watering,  potting,  &c.,  are 
thoroughly  mastered.  Both  are  increased  by  cuttings,  but  it  is  a  difficult 
matter,  and  successful  only  in  the  hands  of  skilled  propagators.  E. 
hyemalis  is  perhaps  the  most  popular  of  the  family.  Sandy  peat  and  firm 
potting  are  essential. 

Erlangea  tomentosa. — An  easily  grown  Ageratum-like  plant  from 
Central  Africa,  that  will  produce  its  heads  of  pretty  lilac-coloured  flowers 
throughout  the  winter  months.  Soil :  good  loam  and  leaf- soil. 

Eucalyptus.— The  Blue  Gum  (E.  globulus)  is  naturally  a  large  tree, 
but  it  is  a  well-known  pot  shrub.  The  peculiar  bluish  green  of  the 
leaves,  and  their  warm  aromatic  fragrance,  combined  with  the  reputation 
it  possesses  as  a  febrifuge,  all  serve  to  render  it  popular.  It  is  readily 
raised  from  seed,  and  the  young  plants  obtained  therefrom  will  make 
rapid  progress  in  ordinary  potting  soil.  A  second  kind,  E.  citriodora, 
has  a  pleasing  lemon-like  fragrance,  but  it  is  not  so  robust  as  the  other. 

Eulalia. — The  Eulalias  are  a  group  of  Japanese  Grasses,  valuable 
for  decoration.  The  best  is  E.  japonica  albo-lineata,  that  reaches  a  height 
of  two  feet  to  five  feet,  the  leaves  being  freely  striped  with  white.  It  is 
a  great  favourite  with  the  London  floral  decorators.  In  the  second  kind 
the  leaves  are  transversely  barred  with  yellow.  Both  succeed  in  ordinary 
soil,  and  are  increased  by  division. 

Eupatorium.— The  different  members  of  this  genus  can  be  readily 
grown  out  of  doors  during  the  summer  months;  when  taken  into  the 
greenhouse  they  will  flower  in  autumn  and  winter.  The  blossoms, 


304  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

which  are  also  suggestive  of  those  of  the  Ageratum,  are  for  the  most 
part  white,  but  E.  ianthinum,  which  does  not  bloom  till  spring,  has 
lilac  flowers.  The  best  greenhouse  Eupatoriums  are  riparium,  petiolare, 
and  vernale.  Soil :  good  loam  with  a  little  peat. 

Ficus  (India-rubber  Plant). — The  well-known  India-rubber  Plant  is 
Ficus  indica,  which  at  one  time  was  more  generally  grown  than  it  is 
now.  The  tendency  to  lose  its  leaves  at  the  base  has  led  to  such  sub- 
jects as  Palms,  Aspidistras,  and  other  things  being  more  generally  used 
for  indoor  decoration.  The  India-rubber  Plant  should  be  potted  in  a 
mixture  of  loam,  peat,  and  sand,  and  the  leaves  kept  regularly  sponged. 
At  the  same  time  care  must  be  taken  not  to  put  the  plant  in  too  large  a 
pot,  as  this  often  leads  to  many  of  the  leaves  dropping.  Over-watering, 
too,  must  be  guarded  against.  There  is  a  form  with  variegated  leaves,  but 
it  is  not  so  effective  or  so  robust  as  the  commoner  kind.  In  direct  con- 
trast to  the  huge  leaves  of  the  India-rubber  Plant  we  have  the  tiny  Ficus 
ripens  and  minima,  both  of  which  are  valuable  for  clothing  a  dark,  damp 
wall  in  the  greenhouse,  as  they  will  attach  themselves  to  it  in  the  way 
of  Ivy,  and  render  it  green  and  attractive  at  all  seasons. 

Francoa. — There  are  two  kinds  of  Francoa,  both  of  which  are 
pretty  greenhouse  plants.  In  Francoa  appendiculata  the  long  slender 
spikes  are  clothed  with  pinkish-red  blossoms,  and  in  F.  ramosa  they  are 
white.  Both  are  of  easy  culture,  and  readily  increased  by  seed  sown  in 
the  spring.  Soil :  loam  and  leaf-soil. 

Freesia. — A  charming  group  of  greenhouse  bulbs  with  flowers  of 
various  colours.  The  best  known  is  F.  refracta  alba,  whose  pure  white 
blossoms  are  deliciously  scented.  In  some  the  flowers  are  white  with  a 
golden  throat,  while  the  newer  kinds  vary  in  colour  from  white  to  car- 
mine through  various  intermediate  shades  of  pink,  rose,  and  lilac.  Of 
the  better-known  kinds  the  best  bulbs  are  grown  in  the  Channel  Islands, 
and  reach  here  in  August.  They  should  be  potted  at  once  and  grown  as 
cool  as  possible,  consistent  with  freedom  from  frost.  They  will  flower  in 
the  greenhouse  in  early  spring,  and  after  the  blossoms  are  past  must  be 
carefully  attended  to  for  water,  &c.,  till  the  leaves  die  down  in  order  to 
perfect  the  bulbs.  When  quite  dormant  keep  them  dry  till  August, 
then  shake  clear  of  the  old  soil  and  repot.  Soil :  loam,  leaf -soil,  and 
well-decayed  cow-manure. 

Fuchsia. — The  Fuchsia  is  a  well-known  greenhouse  plant,  and  is 
useful  for  outdoor  culture  during  the  summer.  Cuttings  of  the  young 
shoots  strike  root  readily  in  the  spring,  and  the  plants  so  obtained  may 
be  grown  in  various  ways.  If  their  tops  are  pinched  out  two  or  three 
times  when  the  plants  are  young  they  form  neat  bushes ;  next,  allowed 
to  grow  at  will  with  the  leading  shoot  tied  to  a  stake,  they  assume  natur- 
ally more  or  less  of  a  pyramid  habit ;  while  standards,  which  are  admired 
by  many,  are  formed  by  tying  the  plant  upright,  and  removing  all  the 
side  shoots  until  the  required  height  is  attained,  when  the  upper  portion 
of  the  plant  which  is  to  form  the  head  may  be  allowed  to  branch  out. 
Any  attempt  to  form  shoots  on  the  lower  part  of  the  stem  must  be  sup- 
pressed. Some  of  the  more  vigorous  Fuchsias  form  a  delightful  feature 


USEFUL  GREENHOUSE   PLANTS         305 

when  trained  to  the  roof  of  a  greenhouse,  their  pendulous,  gracefully 
disposed  blossoms  being  seen  to  great  advantage  under  such  conditions. 
Ordinary  potting  compost  with  a  little  liquid  manure  as  the  pots  get  full 
of  roots  is  very  suitable  for  the  Fuchsia. 

Gerbera  (Barberton  Daisy}. — Beautiful  Marguerite-like  flowers  of 
various  colours.  Need  a  cool  greenhouse  and  soil  composed  of  good 
loam  and  well- decayed  manure. 

Gloxinia. — Given  the  same  treatment  and  soil  as  the  Achimenes 
the  Gloxinias  will  flower  freely  during  the  latter  half  of  the  summer,  but 
to  induce  the  plants  to  bloom  earlier  than  that  they  need  more  neat. 
They  are  increased  by  seed  sown  in  the  spring,  but  as  they  require  a 
warm  structure  during  the  early  stages  the  better  way  for  the  beginner 
will  be  to  obtain  a  few  dormant  tubers  during  the  winter  or  early  spring 
before  they  start  into  growth. 

Grevillea. — These  are  all  very  pretty  flowering  shrubs  for  the  green- 
house, but  are  not  much  grown.  One  species,  however — G.  robusta — is 
very  popular  as  a  foliage  plant,  the  leaves  being  divided  and  subdivided 
in  quite  a  Fern-like  manner.  Soil:  loam  and  peat. 

Heath.    See  Erica. 

Heliotrope. — This  is  known  as  Cherry  Pie,  from  its  fragrant  blossoms. 
It  is  a  very  popular  plant,  as  easily  grown  as  a  Fuchsia,  and  valuable  for 
bedding  out,  or  for  growing  as  neat  little  bushes  in  the  greenhouse,  whilst 
a  wall  in  that  structure  may  be  clothed  with  it.  Few  plants  are  more 
popular  for  that  purpose.  Soil :  good  loam  and  leaf-soil. 

Hibbertia.— The  best  of  the  Hibbertias  is  H.  dentata,  with  pretty 
bronzy  foliage,  and  bright  golden  blossoms  a  couple  of  inches  across, 
borne  during  the  first  three  months  of  the  year.  It  is  a  valuable  climber. 
Soil :  loam,  peat,  and  sand. 

Hippeastrum.— A  beautiful  class  of  bulbous  plants,  more  gene- 
rally met  with  under  the  name  of  Amaryllis.  They  are  characterised  by 
strap-shaped  leaves  and  gorgeous  Lily-like  blossoms,  borne  on  stout  erect 
stems.  In  the  different  varieties  the  colour  of  the  flowers  varies  from 
white  to  deep  crimson,  through  numerous  intermediate  shades,  while 
in  some  they  are  striped  and  netted  in  a  remarkable  manner.  They 
flower  during  the  spring  months,  after  which  repotting  should  be  done 
if  required.  A  mixture  of  loam,  leaf -mould,  and  sand  will  suit  them  well. 
Throughout  the  early  part  of  the  summer  they  should  be  kept  in  the 
warmest  part  of  the  greenhouse,  and  encouraged  to  grow  freely  by  the 
occasional  use  of  stimulants.  Towards  the  end  of  the  summer  expose 
them  to  sun  and  air  in  order  to  ripen  the  bulbs.  In  autumn  the  leaves 
die  down,  and  when  quite  dormant  water  should  be  withheld.  In  winter 
they  may  be  safely  kept  in  a  minimum  temperature  of  45  degrees,  pro- 
vided the  soil  is  quite  dry.  In  February  give  a  little  water,  and  increase 
it  gradually  as  the  plants  grow.  Propagation  is  effected  by  means  of 
seeds  and  offsets.  These  should  be  taken  off  carefully  and  put  in 
separate  pots.  Seedlings  take  about  three  years  to  attain  flowering  size. 
When  small  they  must  not  be  dried  off  in  the  winter. 

Hydrangea. — Though   hardy   in    favoured    districts  the  common 

U 


3o6  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

Hydrangea,  with  its  huge  heads  of  pink  blossoms,  is  a  good  greenhouse 
plant.  By  giving  an  occasional  supply  of  a  weak  solution  of  alum  water, 
the  flowers  acquire  a  bluish  tinge.  The  handsome  H.  paniculata  grandi- 
flora  is  much  used  for  greenhouse  decoration,  although  quite  hardy. 
This  shrub  produces  huge  pyramidal-shaped  heads  of  creamy-white 
flowers.  The  Hydrangeas  strike  root  readily  in  the  spring  from  cuttings 
of  the  young  shoots  treated  much  in  the  same  way  as  those  of  a 
Fuchsia.  The  plants  require  copious  supplies  of  water  during  the 
growing  season. 

Imantophyllum, — Sturdy  growing  plants  with  long,  dark  green 
strap-shaped  leaves,  and  large  heads  of  orange-red  or  terra-cotta  coloured 
blossoms/ borne  in  the  spring.  The  foliage  is  ornamental  at  all  seasons. 
Seed  frequently  ripens,  from  which  young  plants  are  readily  raised.  /. 
miniatum  is  the  full  name.  There  are  several  good  forms  of  it.  It  is 
surprising  that  more  amateurs  do  not  grow  this  plant,  which  is  also  known 
by  the  name  of  Clivia  miniata.  Soil :  good  loam  and  sand. 

Impatiens. — The  best-known  member  of  this  extensive  family  is 
the  common  Balsam  (7.  Balsamina),  which  is  popular  either  for  the 
greenhouse  or  for  bedding  out.  The  seed  should  be  sown  in  March, 
and  the  seedlings  potted  off  as  soon  as  sufficiently  large.  Pots  six  inches 
in  diameter  are  a  convenient  size  in  which  to  flower  the  Balsam,  which 
needs  a  good  light  soil,  such  as  equal  parts  of  loam,  and  well-decayed 
manure,  with  a  little  sand.  Seed  from  good  varieties  is  very  necessary 
in  order  to  obtain  superior  Balsams.  Besides  the  common  Balsam 
above  referred  to  there  are  several  other  beautiful  greenhouse  kinds, 
chief  among  them  being  Sultanii,  rose ;  Holstii,  vermilion ;  Herzogii, 
orange-salmon ;  and  Oliverii,  mauve.  These  will  flower  for  months 
together. 

India-rubber  Plant.    See  Ficus. 

Indian  Shot,    See  Canna. 

Isolepis  gracilis.— A  pretty  little  grass-like  plant,  with  dark  green 
leaves  that  droop  around  the  pot  and  almost  hide  it.  For  edging  of 
groups  and  similar  purposes  it  is  very  useful,  and  easily  grown  in  or- 
dinary soil. 

Ixia. — A  class  of  small  bulbs,  whose  bright-coloured  blossoms  are 
borne  on  tall  wiry  stems.  They  should  be  potted  in  August  or  early  in 
September,  and  from  their  slender  nature  half  a  dozen  bulbs  must  be  put 
in  a  five-inch  pot.  May  be  treated  as  Freesias. 

Jasminum. — The  best  greenhouse  Jasmine  is  /.  grandiflorum,  a 
larger  and  bolder  plant  than  the  common  hardy  Jasmine,  which  it 
somewhat  resembles.  The  white  flowers,  tinged  with  purple,  are  delici- 
ously  fragrant,  and  borne  throughout  the  greater  part  of  the  year.  /. 
primulinum  is  a  newer  greenhouse  species  with  large  yellow  flowers. 
Soil :  loam,  peat,  and  sand. 

Kalanchce  flammea. — A  succulent  plant  from  Somaliland,  with 
oval-shaped  leaves  and  large  flattened  heads  of  scarlet  flowers.  Indi- 
vidually the  blooms  are  not  unlike  those  of  a  Bourardia.  It  flowers 
during  the  summer,  and  although  not  many  years  have  passed  since  Jirst 


USEFUL  GREENHOUSE   PLANTS          307 

introduced  it  has  already  become  a  general  favourite  for  decorative 
purposes.  A  white-flowered  species,  K.  Dyerii,  blooms  in  winter.  Soil : 
loam,  leaf-soil,  and  sand,  with  a  little  old  mortar. 

Kennedya. — Slender  climbing  plants,  suitable  for  the  roof  or  rafters 
of  the  greenhouse,  with  pea-shaped  blossoms.  The  best  is  K.  Marryattce, 
which  has  scarlet  flowers  borne  during  the  first  half  of  the  year.  Soil : 
loam  and  peat. 

Lachenalia.— Popularly  termed  Cape  Primroses,  these  are  pretty 
little  bulbous  plants  that  should  be  potted  in  August,  when  they  will 
flower  in  the  spring.  Soil  should  consist  of  loam,  leaf-soil,  and  old  cow- 
manure.  They  are  pretty  either  in  pots  or  suspended  baskets.  There 
are  many  new  and  expensive  kinds.  Of  the  older  ones  the  best  are 
aurea,  yellow ;  pendula,  red  and  yellow ;  tricolor,  green,  red,  and  yellow ; 
and  Nelsonii,  fine  golden  yellow,  unsurpassed  by  any  of  the  others. 

Lantana. — Dwarf,  shrubby  plants,  with  flowers  somewhat  like 
those  of  the  Verbena,  but  rather  smaller.  Lantanas  will  bloom  through- 
out the  summer,  the  flowers  being  white,  yellow,  pink,  scarlet,  and 
crimson.  These  Lantanas  can  be  recommended  to  the  amateur,  as 
they  strike  readily  from  cuttings  in  the  spring,  grow  well  with  ordinary 
treatment  and  soil,  and  flower  continuously  throughout  the  summer. 

Lapageria. — The  two  Lapagerias — alba,  white,  and  rosea,  pink — 
are  among  the  most  beautiful  of  all  greenhouse  climbers,  their  flowers 
being  bell-shaped,  and  of  waxy  texture.  They  need  a  well-drained  soil, 
principally  composed  of  rough  sandy  peat,  copious  supplies  of  water 
during  the  summer,  and  a  position  shaded  from  the  sun.  They  are  effec- 
tive whether  trained  to  the  roof  or  to  the  back  wall  of  the  greenhouse. 

Lemon  Verbena.    See  Aloysia  dtriodora. 

Lobelia. — The  different  forms  of  Lobelia  speciosa  are  generally 
used  for  bedding  during  the  summer,  but  at  the  same  time  they  form  a 
pleasing  feature  in  the  greenhouse,  the  loose-growing  kinds  being  par- 
ticularly useful  for  suspended  baskets.  Lobelias  are  readily  raised  from 
seed  sown  in  the  greenhouse  in  March.  A  striking  species  is  Lobelia 
tenuior,  with  large  cobalt-blue  flowers.  It  is  rather  tall  in  growth,  and 
in  a  suspended  pot  or  basket  its  loose  habit  displays  its  charms  to  the 
best  advantage.  Soil :  good  loam  and  leaf-soil. 

Maiden's  Wreath.    See  Francoa  ramosa. 

Marguerite.— This  is  the  term  usually  applied  to  the  different 
forms  of  Chrysanthemum  frutescens  that  are  largely  grown  for  decora- 
tion. They  succeed  in  any  ordinary  soil,  and  their  large  daisy-like 
blooms  appear  in  great  profusion  throughout  the  greater  part  of  the  year. 
They  all  strike  very  readily  from  cuttings  put  in  during  the  spring. 
Some  of  the  later  varieties  have  double  flowers,  one  of  which,  Mrs.  F. 
Sander,  has  become  exceedingly  popular  both  for  greenhouse  decoration 
and  for  summer  bedding. 

Maurandya  barclayana. — A  quick-growing  climber  that,  if  raised 
from  seed  in  the  spring,  will  produce  its  purple  Foxglove-like  flowers 
throughout  the  latter  half  of  the  summer.  Ordinary  potting-soil. 

Metrosideros  floribunda.    See  Callistemon  salignus. 


3o8  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

Mignonette.— The  delicious  fragrance  of  the  Mignonette  (Reseda 
odorata)  renders  it  a  general  favourite,  and  good  plants  of  it  are  often 
grown  in  pots.  Pretty  little  plants  for  autumn  and  winter  flowering 
may  be  obtained  in  pots  five  inches  in  diameter,  but  the  seed  must  be 
sown  in  July  and  August.  A  suitable  compost  is  two-thirds  loam  to 
one-third  well-decayed  manure,  with  a  little  sand.  The  pots  must  be 
well  drained,  and  the  soil  pressed  down  very  firmly  to  within  an  inch  of 
the  rim.  In  sowing  the  seed  take  care  not  to  sprinkle  it  too  thickly,  as 
five  healthy  plants  are  sufficient  for  one  pot.  A  frame  out  of  doors  is  a 
good  place  for  the  seed-pots,  as  the  lights  will  serve  to  keep  off  an  excess 
of  rain,  which  must  be  especially  guarded  against.  Plenty  of  air  should 
be  given,  and  as  the  plants  develop  a  little  liquid  manure  will  be  of 
service.  A  light  position  and  a  good  circulation  of  air  are  necessary  to 
the  Mignonette  in  autumn  and  winter.  There  are  several  forms,  the 
variety  Machet  being  one  of  the  best. 

Mimosa.     See  Acacia  dealbata. 

Mimulus. — The  garden  forms  of  Mimulus,  known  as  the  Monkey 
Flower,  are  in  many  cases  curiously  marked.  They  grow  readily  from 
seed  in  the  spring,  and  pretty  little  examples  may  be  obtained  in  five- 
inch  pots.  The  common  Musk  (Mimulus  moschatus)  is  a  general  favourite, 
readily  increased  by  division,  as  is  also  the  larger-flowered  form  known 
as  Harrison's  Musk. 

Monkey  Flower.    See  Mimulus. 

Musk.    See  Mimulus  moschatus. 

Myrsiphyllum  asparagoides.— A  slender  climber,  with  small, 
bright  shining  green,  heart-shaped  leaves.  It  is  the  plant  commonly 
known  as  Smilax,  and  has  long  sprays  so  much  used  for  table  decoration. 
It  succeeds  in  ordinary  potting  compost. 

Nerine. — A  beautiful  class  of  greenhouse  bulbs,  the  different  members 
of  which  flower  in  the  autumn,  perfect  their  growth  during  the  winter, 
die  down  towards  the  end  of  spring,  and  rest  during  the  summer,  when 
they  must  be  kept  quite  dry  and  fully  exposed  to  the  sun.  They  should  be 
given  soil  mainly  composed  of  leaf-mould  and  sand,  and  will  stand  for 
years  without  repotting.  The  best  are  Nerine  corusca,  with  flowing  orange- 
scarlet  flowers ;  N.  Fothergilli  major,  vivid  scarlet ;  N.  sarninsis  (Guernsey 
Lily),  carmine-rose;  and  N.  Bowdenii,  pink,  with  deep  coloured  stripe 
down  the  centre  of  each  segment. 

Nerium  Oleander. — This,  known  popularly  as  the  Oleander,  is 
a  loose-growing  evergreen  shrub  with  Willow-like  leaves  and  showy 
blossoms,  usually  rose  or  white,  in  some  cases  single  and  in  others  double. 
In  was  in  olden  days  a  very  popular  conservatory  plant,  large  examples 
being  often  grown  in  tubs  and  stood  outside  during  the  summer.  Plenty 
of  sunshine  is  essential  to  its  flowering. 

Norfolk  Island  Pine.    See  Araucaria  excelsa. 

Ophiopogon  spicatum  variegatum,  with  white,  striped  leaves, 
and  0.  Jaburan  variegatum,  in  which  they  are  marked  with  yellow,  are 
two  dense-growing,  grass-like  plants,  very  pretty  for  indoor  decoration. 

Oxalis. — A  dwarf  class  of  clover-like  plants,  most  of  which  spring 


USEFUL   GREENHOUSE   PLANTS         309 

from  small  tubers.  The  flowers  of  some  of  them  are  very  pretty. 
0.  cernua,  with  yellow  flowers  about  the  size  of  a  shilling,  is  called  the 
Bermuda  Butter-cup,  from  the  fact  that  it  is  extensively  grown  in 
Bermuda  and  sent  to  this  country  in  early  autumn.  It  is  popular  for 
the  greenhouse.  0.  Bowieana,  rose  ;  0.  enneaphylla,  white ;  O.floribunday 
rose ;  0.  Deppei,  reddish-purple ;  and  0.  variabilis,  white  and  red,  are 
among  the  best  forms.  Soil :  sandy  loam  and  peat  or  leaf-soil. 

Palms. — Of  late  years  Palms  have  greatly  advanced  in  popularity, 
being  now  largely  used  for  the  stove  and  the  greenhouse  as  well  as  for 
the  dwelling-house,  where  some  of  them  will  keep  in  health  for  years, 
provided  they  get  a  reasonable  amount  of  attention.  Good  loam, 
lightened  by  a  little  leaf-mould  and  sand,  is  suitable  for  the  different 
Palms.  Care  should  be  taken  not  to  give  too  much  soil,  for  good  speci- 
mens may  be  grown  in  comparatively  small  pots.  They  must  never  be 
allowed  to  suffer  from  drought,  though  stagnant  water  is  very  injurious. 
It  is  important  to  keep  the  leaves  sponged  with  tepid  water  regularly. 
The  best  greenhouse  Palms  are : — Areca  Baueri,  Areca  sapida,  Chama- 
rops  excelsa,  Fortunei,  and  humilis ;  Corypha  australis,  Kentia  belmoreana, 
and  K.  fosteriana,  Latania  borbonica,  Phoenix  canariensis,  P.  Roebeliniij 
and  Rhapis  flabelliformis. 

Passiflora  (Passion  Flower).  —  Well-known  climbers,  flowering 
principally  during  the  summer  months.  Passiflora  carulea,  blue ; 
P.  Constance  Elliot,  white ;  P.  Lawsoni,  light  purple ;  and  P.  Impera- 
trice  Eugenie  are  all  good.  These  strike  from  cuttings  in  the  spring. 
Soil :  loam  and  peat. 

Pelargonium.— Owing  to  the  many  sections  of  Pelargonium  now 
in  cultivation  they  form  a  most  extensive  class,  and  the  uses  to  which 
they  can  be  put  are  varied.  At  one  time  the  name  of  Pelargonium  was, 
at  least  from  a  popular  standpoint,  applied  only  to  the  large-flowered 
show  section,  the  term  Geranium  being  generally  used  to  indicate  the 
Zonal,  Ivy-leaved,  and  others  of  this  class.  The  Zonal  Pelargonium 
or  "  Geranium,"  as  it  is  popularly  called,  is  represented  by  numerous 
varieties  with  flowers  varying  from  pure  white  to  crimson.  This  plant 
can  be  put  to  many  uses.  It  is  admirably  adapted  for  the  greenhouse 
or  conservatory,  and  if  the  structure  be  kept  at  a  temperature  of  50 
degrees  to  60  degrees  the  plant  will  flower  throughout  the  winter.  It  is 
largely  used  for  bedding  out  during  the  summer  months,  while  large, 
old  plants  will  yield  a  wealth  of  blossom  if  planted  out  of  doors  at  that 
period,  as  one  may  see  from  the  noble  specimens  put  out  for  the  summer 
in  the  London  parks.  There  are  now  a  great  number  of  double-flowered 
varieties  belonging  to  this  Zonal  section.  These  are  valuable  for  flower- 
ing in  pots,  but  as  a  rule  they  do  not  bloom  with  the  same  freedom  as 
the  single  kinds  if  bedded  out. 

luy-leaued  Pelargoniums.— The  members  of  this  section  have 
become  very  popular  within  the  last  few  years,  and  the  double-flowered 
forms  are  now  universally  grown.  Some  of  them  are  valuable  for 
clothing  the  pillars  or  back  wall  of  the  greenhouse,  while  for  hanging 
baskets  they  are  largely  used.  Their  drooping  habit  fits  them  for 


3 io  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

window-boxes,  the  margins  of  large  vases,  and  similar  purposes,  while 
secured  to  a  few  sticks  they  form  neat  little  bushy  specimens  for  the 
greenhouse. 

The  large-flowered  Pelargoniums  are  now  classed  under  the  different 
heads  of  Show,  Spotted,  French,  Regal,  and  Decorative,  but  no  hard- 
and-fast  line  can  be  drawn  between  these  groups.  The  fancy  varieties 
are  known  by  their  slender  yet  dense  growth  and  profusion  of  small 
flowers.  Scented  foliage  kinds  form  a  distinct  class,  the  flowers,  as  a 
rule,  being  insignificant,  but  the  prettily-cut,  highly-fragrant  leaves 
render  them  popular,  especially  where  the  old-fashioned  nosegay  is  still 
in  demand.  These  are  handsome  in  large  tubs  or  pots  for  the  terrace 
in  summer.  Variegated-leaved  varieties,  principally  of  the  Zonal  section, 
are  numerous,  but  they  are  more  used  for  bedding  out  during  the 
summer  than  for  the  greenhouse. 

The  Pelargonium  is  increased  by  cuttings,  a  subject  dwelt  upon  in 
a  previous  chapter.  With  regard  to  soil,  a  mixture  of  two-thirds  loam 
to  one-third  well-decayed  manure  or  leaf-mould,  or  a  mixture  of  both, 
with  a  sprinkling  of  rough  sand  will  suit  them  well.  In  all  stages  of 
growth  a  good  light  position  and  free  circulation  of  air  are  necessary, 
as  a  stagnant  atmosphere  will  soon  cause  many  of  the  leaves  to  turn 
yellow  and  drop.  During  winter  the  roots  may  be  kept  as  dry  as  is 
consistent  with  safety,  and  the  plants  so  treated  will  start  into  growth 
in  the  spring  more  readily  than  those  that  have  been  kept  excited 
throughout  the  winter  season.  Aphides  or  green-fly  are  particularly 
troublesome  to  some  sections  of  Pelargonium,  but  they  may  be  easily 
kept  down  by  using  XL- All  Vaporiser. 

Zonal  Pelargoniums  for  winter-flowering  should  be  grown  throughout 
the  summer  in  a  spot  fully  exposed  to  the  sun,  and  pick  off  the  flower- 
buds  until  the  autumn.  The  varieties  of  Pelargonium  are  almost  in- 
numerable, hence  a  selection  of  names  is  difficult  to  give,  and  better 
results  will  be  obtained  by  inspecting  a  good  collection  during  the 
flowering  season,  or  by  obtaining  the  catalogue  of  a  well-known  Pelar- 
gonium grower. 

Petunia. — The  Petunias  form  a  pretty  class  of  soft-wooded  plants. 
Both  single  and  double  flowers  occur  amongst  them,  the  single  kinds 
being  useful  for  bedding  out,  for  balconies,  and  for  window-boxes,  while 
they  also  form  a  pleasing  feature  in  the  greenhouse.  The  double  flowers 
are  too  heavy  for  the  outdoor  garden,  but  for  growing  under  glass  they 
are  very  showy.  The  single  kinds  are  readily  increased  from  seeds 
sown  in  the  greenhouse  in  the  spring,  but  the  choicer  double  kinds  are 
propagated  by  cuttings.  Given  the  same  treatment  as  a  Fuchsia  they 
strike  root  readily.  Ordinary  potting  compost  will  suit  them  well. 

Plumbago  capensis. — This  is  a  charming  plant  for  training  to  the 
roof  of  a  greenhouse,  in  which  position  its  delightful  porcelain  blue 
blossoms  are  produced  throughout  the  summer  months.  As  a  bush,  too, 
it  is  equally  as  attractive.  There  is  a  white-flowered  variety,  but  it  is 
not  so  pleasing  as  the  ordinary  form.  The  Plumbago  is  as  easily  grown 
as  a  Fuchsia,  and  needs  much  the  same  treatment  and  soil. 


USEFUL   GREENHOUSE   PLANTS          311 

Primula. — The  Chinese  Primula  is  one  of  the  most  popular  of 
greenhouse  plants  in  winter  and  spring.  The  seed  should  be  sown  about 
midsummer,  and  as  soon  as  the  young  plants  are  large  enough  to  handle 
they  must  be  pricked  off.  Then  pot  them  singly  into  small  pots,  and  as 
these  get  full  of  roots  the  plants  may  be  shifted  into  pots  five  inches  in 
diameter,  in  which  they  will  flower  until  the  end  of  September.  A  cold 
frame  is  better  than  the  greenhouse,  but  before  autumn  frosts  set  in 
they  should  be  removed  indoors.  The  double-flowered  varieties  are 
increased  by  surrounding  the  stem  with  a  mixture  of  moss,  loam,  and 
sand,  into  which  they  will  root,  and  as  soon  as  they  are  sufficiently 
advanced  the  plant  may  be  divided  and  the  several  pieces  potted.  The 
propagation  of  double  Primulas  requires  considerable  care.  With  regard 
to  the  single  varieties,  unless  they  are  needed  for  seed  the  plants  may, 
after  flowering,  be  thrown  away,  as  young  plants  give  better  results  than 
old  ones.  A  good  soil  for  the  Chinese  Primula  is  two-parts  loam  to  one- 
part  each  of  leaf-mould  and  decayed  manure,  with  a  liberal  sprinkling 
of  silver  sand.  In  all  stages  of  growth  the  watering  of  these  Primulas 
must  be  carefully  done,  as  an  excess  of  moisture  or  of  drought  is  equally 
fatal.  Pretty  semi-double  flowers  can  be  readily  obtained  from  seed  if 
it  is  saved  from  a  good  strain.  Besides  this,  several  other  Primulas  are 
valuable  for  the  greenhouse,  notably,  the  Auricula,  which  blooms  in  the 
spring,  the  Japanese  P.  cortusoides  Sieboldi,  of  which  there  are  many 
pretty  varieties,  flowering  at  about  the  same  period,  and 

Primula  floribunda,  which  produces  its  pretty  golden  blossoms  almost 
throughout  the  year,  while  the  sulphur-coloured  P.  verticillata  sinensis 
flowers  in  the  spring.  From  these  two  species  a  hybrid  was  raised  at 
Kew,  and  it  is  now  under  the  name  of  Primula  Kewensis  very  widely 
distributed.  Its  habit  of  growth  is  free,  and  the  golden-yellow  flowers 
are  borne  over  a  lengthened  period.  Primula  obconica,  whose  blooms 
were  originally  lilac  in  colour,  has  now  given  rise  to  numerous  forms,  the 
blooms  of  whom  vary  in  colour  from  white  to  crimson.  It  is  a  very  de- 
sirable Primula  for  the  greenhouse,  and  we  hear  much  less  now  about  the 
irritation  of  the  skin  caused  by  handling  it  than  we  used  to  do.  The 
Star  Primula  (P.  stellata)  is  a  name  applied  to  a  very  graceful  form  of 
the  Chinese  Primula ;  it  is  quite  a  break  away  from  the  ordinary  kind. 
It  is  taller  and  more  slender  in  growth,  the  whole  plant  being  far  more 
elegant  than  the  ordinary  Chinese  Primula. 

Primula  malacoides,  a  recent  introduction  from  China,  has  already 
become  a  favourite,  its  small  lilac-coloured  blossoms,  borne  in  whorls  on 
slender  stems,  being  borne  in  great  profusion  and  over  a  long  period. 
There  is  a  white  variety  of  it.  Both  are  easily  raised  from  seeds  sown  in 
the  spring.  Same  soil  as  Chinese  Primulas. 

Rhododendron. — This  is  a  large  group  of  beautiful  flowering  shrubs, 
many  of  which  do  not  flower  until  they  have  grown  to  a  considerable 
size.  Some  of  the  hybrids,  however,  flower  well  in  a  small  state,  among 
the  best  being  Countess  of  Derby,  Countess  of  Sefton,  Duchess  of 
Sutherland,  Lady  Alice  Fitzwilliam,  and  Princess  Alice.  All  of  the 
above  have  large  white  or  blush-coloured  and  very  fragrant  flowers. 


3 12  GARDENING   FOR  BEGINNERS 

These  Rhododendrons  need  the  same  treatment  as  their  near  relatives 
the  Azaleas,  which  see.    All  of  them  flower  during  the  spring  months. 

Richardia. — The  most  popular  of  the  Richardias  is  the  Arum  Lily 
(R.  cethiopica),  also  known  as  Lily  of  the  Nile  or  Calla.  It  has  hand- 
some white  trumpet-shaped  spathes,  which  are  in  great  demand  for 
wreaths,  vases,  and  similar  purposes.  The  foliage,  too,  is  conspicuous, 
and  good  plants  form  a  striking  feature  in  the  greenhouse.  The  flower- 
ing season  varies  according  to  the  treatment  given,  but  in  a  general  way 
these  big  white  spathes  are  most  appreciated  in  winter  and  early  spring. 
To  obtain  them  stand  the  plants  out  of  doors  during  the  summer,  and 
keep  them  dry  for  a  time.  Then  about  the  middle  of  July  shake  them 
clear  of  the  old  soil  and  repot  in  a  mixture  of  loam  and  decayed  manure, 
after  that  giving  more  water  and  keeping  them  out  of  doors  until  the 
autumn  frosts  threaten  danger.  It  must  be  borne  in  mind  that  the  Arum 
Lily  grows  naturally  in  ditches  in  South  Africa,  hence  a  liberal  supply 
of  water  is  essential,  except  when  actually  at  rest.  There  is  a  miniature 
form  known  as  Little  Gem,  which  is  not  so  free  as  the  type.  Two 
golden-flowered  Richardias  have  been  introduced  into  cultivation  of  late 
years,  but  they  need  more  careful  treatment  than  the  Arum  Lily.  They 
pass  the  greater  part  of  the  winter  in  a  quite  dormant  condition,  flower 
in  the  spring,  perfect  their  growth,  and  early  in  autumn  go  to  rest,  at 
which  period  they  must  be  kept  quite  dry. 

Ricinus. — This  is  the  Castor  Oil  Plant.  Its  large,  divided  leaves 
make  a  good  show  either  in  the  greenhouse  or  bedded  out  during  the 
summer  months.  The  plants  are  readily  increased  by  seeds  sown  in 
heat  in  the  spring.  Any  good  soil. 

Roses. — The  culture  of  the  Rose  in  pots  is  dealt  with  on  p.  83. 

Salvia. — The  best  of  the  Salvias  are  quick-growing  plants  that  may 
be  placed  out  of  doors  during  the  summer,  and  treated  much  in  the  same 
way  as  the  Chrysanthemum.  They  flower  during  the  autumn  and  early 
winter.  A  selection  would  include  : — S.  Bethelli,  pink ;  S.  Pitcheri,  blue ; 
S.  rutilans,  red ;  and  S.  splendens,  scarlet ;  the  last-mentioned  is  a 
most  effective  plant,  and  should  be  grown  more  frequently.  Of  it  a 
variety  known  as  Pride  of  Zurich  has  become  very  popular  of  late  years. 
It  is  distinguished  from  the  type  by  its  dwarf er  habit,  extreme  florifer- 
ousness,  and  the  fact  that  it  may  be  had  in  bloom  earlier  in  the  season. 
On  this  account,  it  is  largely  used  for  summer  bedding,  but  is  equally 
effective  in  the  greenhouse. 

Scarlet  Geranium.    See  Pelargonium. 

Schizanthus. — Pretty  annuals,  the  markings  of  the  flowers  suggest- 
ing those  on  the  wings  of  a  butterfly.  Sow  the  seed  in  gentle  heat  early 
in  the  spring. 

Slipperwort.    See  Calceolaria. 

Smilax.     See  Myrsiphyllum. 

Solanum. — The  bright  red  berries  of  Solanum  capsicastrum  render 
this  a  favourite  plant  for  decoration  throughout  the  winter  months.  It 
is  readily  raised  from  seed  early  in  the  year,  and  when  finally  potted 
into  five-inch  pots  may  be  placed  out  of  doors  during  the  summer,  as  in 


USEFUL   GREENHOUSE   PLANTS          313 

this  way  it  will  flower  and  set  its  berries  freely.  A  climbing  kind — S. 
jasminoides — will  produce  pretty  white  flowers  throughout  the  greater 
part  of  the  year  in  the  greenhouse.  In  mild  countries,  as  in  the  south 
of  England,  it  will  stand  the  winter  in  the  open.  Soil :  good  loam  and 
a  little  peat. 

Streptocarpus. — A  charming  class  of  plants  nearly  related  to  the 
Gloxinia.  The  cultural  requirements  of  the  two  are  much  the  same, 
except  that  as  the  Streptocarpus  does  not  form  tubers  it  must  not  be  kept 
quite  dry  during  the  winter. 

Tacsonia  Van  Volxemii.— This  is  a  free-growing  climber  somewhat 
like  a  Passiflora,  but  the  starry  flowers  which  hang  suspended  on  long 
stalks  are  magenta-scarlet  in  colour.  Soil :  loam  and  peat. 

Tropaeolum, — The  climbing  Tropseolums  are  very  pretty,  and  the 
Lobbianum  section  will  succeed  almost  anywhere.  Good  kinds  are : 
Ball  of  Fire,  scarlet ;  fulgens,  deep  scarlet,  both  single ;  and  Beauty  of 
Darmstadt,  scarlet  and  orange,  double.  These  must  be  increased  by 
cuttings.  Rather  poor  loam  is  best. 

Tuberose. — The  Tuberose,  Polianthes  tuberosus,  is  generally  regarded 
as  a  subject  for  forcing,  but  at  the  same  time  it  will  grow  and  flower  in 
the  greenhouse,  though  of  course  its  rate  of  progress  will  be  slower  than 
when  more  heat  is  given.  The  white  highly-fragrant  flowers  are  much 
admired.  The  bulbs  should  be  obtained  early  in  the  year  and  potted 
one  in  a  five-inch  pot,  in  a  mixture  of  loam  and  peat. 

Vallota  purpurea. — This,  known  popularly  as  the  Scarborough 
Lily,  forms  a  bright  feature  in  the  greenhouse  in  August  and  September. 
The  reddish-scarlet  funnel-shaped  flowers  are  borne  in  a  good-sized  head 
on  a  stem  a  foot  or  so  in  height.  Like  the  Nerines  it  comes  from  South 
Africa,  and  much  the  same  treatment  will  do  for  both. 

Verbena. — Some  of  the  Verbenas  form  a  charming  summer  feature 
in  the  greenhouse,  and  since  the  advent  of  the  large-flowered  rich  pink 
variety,  Miss  Willmott,  they  are  now  extensively  grown.  Boule  de 
neige,  white ;  Crimson  King,  Purple  Queen,  and  King  of  Scarlets  are 
also  good  varieties.  A  mixture  of  loam,  sand,  and  peat  suits  them. 

Veronica. — The  different  shrubby  Veronicas  are  hardy  in  warm 
districts,  and  in  others  they  are  valuable  for  greenhouse  decoration. 
They  bloom  in  autumn,  the  flowers  being  borne  in  Bottle-brush  like 
spikes.  In  colour  they  vary  from  white  to  crimson,  some  of  the  pink, 
blue,  and  purple  shades  being  very  pleasing.  They  can  be  stood  outside 
during  the  summer  months.  Any  good  potting-soil. 

A  selection  of  climbing  plants  for  the  greenhouse  : — Abutilons  of 
sorts ;  Clematis  indivisa ;  Cobsea  scandens ;  Hibbertia  dentata ;  Jas- 
minum  grandiflorum ;  Lapagerias,  red  and  white ;  Maurandya  Bar- 
clayana ;  Passifloras  of  sorts ;  Pelargoniums,  Ivy-leaved ;  Plumbago 
capensis ;  Roses  of  sorts ;  Solanum  jasminoides ;  Tropaeolums ;  Tac- 
sonia Van  Volxemii. 


3 14  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

HARDY  BULBOUS  AND  OTHER  FLOWERS  FOR 
THE  GREENHOUSE 

Many  hardy  bulbous  plants  are  valuable  for  the  green- 
house during  the  early  months  of  the  year.  They  flower 
naturally  in  the  spring,  and  when  given  the  protection  of  a 
glass  structure  and  a  little  heat,  can  be  obtained  in  flower  in 
many  cases  soon  after  Christmas.  Under  this  head  are  in- 
cluded Hyacinths,  Tulips,  many  kinds  of  Narcissus  (Daffodils), 
Scilla  sibirica,  Chionodoxas,  and  Snowdrops,  Crocuses,  and 
others.  The  bulbs  can  be  obtained  during  the  autumn,  and 
all  need  much  the  same  treatment.  Pots  five  inches  in 
diameter  are  the  most  convenient,  and  unless  for  special 
reasons  the  better  way  will  be  to  use  this  size.  The  pots  must 
be  thoroughly  drained,  but  at  the  same  time  no  more  broken 
crocks  should  be  used  than  are  absolutely  necessary.  One 
bulb  of  a  Hyacinth  should  be  placed  in  a  five-inch  pot.  With 
regard  to  Tulips,  as  a  rule  five  or  six  will  be  sufficient,  Nar- 
cissus from  three  to  five,  Scilla  sibirica,  eight  or  nine,  Chiono- 
doxas and  Snowdrops  the  same.  They  should  all  be  potted 
at  such  a  depth  that  the  bulb  is  completely  covered.  Then 
after  potting,  stand  them  out  of  doors  on  a  firm  bottom  of 
ashes,  give  a  good  watering,  and  cover  all  with  cocoanut  fibre 
refuse  or  ashes,  sufficient  being  used  to  just  hide  the  pots 
entirely.  This  maintains  an  even  state  of  moisture  around 
the  bulbs,  a  condition  particularly  favourable  to  the  formation 
of  healthy  roots,  without  which  bulbs  will  not  flower  well. 
In  a  month  or  so  the  pots  will  be  full  of  roots,  and  they 
may  be  taken  into  the  greenhouse  at  any  time  from  then 
to  Christmas.  Where  a  succession  of  flowers  in  the  early 
months  of  the  year  is  desired,  the  pots  must  not  be  taken  into 
the  greenhouse  all  at  once,  but  at  intervals  of  a  week  or  so. 
They  must  be  freely  supplied  with  water,  not  saturated,  but 
sufficient  given  to  keep  the  soil  moist,  as  if  allowed  to  get  dry 
they  seldom  flower  well.  A  suitable  soil  is  one-third  each  of 
loam,  leaf-mould,  and  well-decayed  manure,  with  a  sprinkling 
of  sand,  and  the  whole  thoroughly  mixed  together.  In  some 
cases  a  little  support  will  be  needed  as  the  flowers  develop, 
and  the  beauty  of  the  plant  depends  upon  this  being  neatly 
done.  Thus  the  sticks  should  be  as  slender  as  possible,  con- 
sistent with  supplying  the  proper  support,  while  the  ties  should 
not  be  conspicuous.  In  tying  Hyacinth  spikes,  or  in  fact 
any  other  bulbs,  it  is  important  that  the  material  used  should 


USEFUL  GREENHOUSE   PLANTS         315 

not  be  drawn  too  tightly,  as  the  stems  swell  and  lengthen 
rapidly,  hence  they  will  be  soon  crippled  unless  constantly 
attended  to,  whereas  if  ample  room  be  allowed,  no  damage 
will  result.  The  little,  pure  white  Roman  Hyacinths  which 
are  grown  in  Italy  and  the  South  of  France,  reach  this  country 
at  the  end  of  July  and  in  August,  and  if  potted  early  they  will 
flower  in  November  and  December. 

A  practice  now  much  in  vogue  is  that  of  growing  bulbs  in  ornamental 
bowls  filled  with  fibre  instead  of  soil.  As  the  bowls  are  for  the  most  part 
glazed  and  watertight,  the  difficulty  is  to  maintain  the  fibre  or  whatever 
rooting  medium  is  employed  in  an  even  state  of  moisture.  Owing  to 
this  the  flowering  of  bulbs  in  fibre  is  not  as  a  rule  so  uniformally  successful 
as  when  they  are  grown  in  pots  of  soil  in  the  ordinary  way.  Of  bulbs 
that  flower  later  in  the  season  than  those  above  mentioned  may  be  named 
the  early-flowering  GLADIOLI,  of  which  half  a  dozen  bulbs  may  be  potted 
in  a  six-inch  pot.  They  will  flower  in  early  summer.  A  few  good  kinds 
are :  The  Bride,  pure  white,  much  grown  for  cutting ;  Adonis,  orange- 
scarlet,  blotched  white ;  Colvillei,  rosy-purple ;  delicatissima,  white, 
blotched  crimson ;  Emperor  William,  purplish-scarlet ;  Prince  Albert, 
salmon-scarlet ;  and  Queen  Victoria,  deep  red,  marked  white. 

Lilies. — The  best  Lilies  for  greenhouse  culture  are  Lilium  longi- 
florum,  whose  long  silvery  trumpets,  with  their  delicious  perfume,  are 
always  admired  ;  Lilium  auratum,  the  golden-rayed  Lily  of  Japan ;  and 
Lilium  speciosum,  represented  by  varieties  with  different  coloured  flowers. 
These  should  all  be  potted  at  the  latest  by  the  end  of  January,  and  grown 
on  until  the  flowering  season  in  a  good  light  position  in  the  greenhouse 
with  plenty  of  air.  Flowers  of  these  Lilies  may  be  had  all  the  year  round, 
and  the  way  they  are  obtained  outside  of  the  normal  season  is  to  retard 
the  bulbs  in  refrigerators,  so  that  they  do  not  start  into  growth.  When 
removed  from  their  cold  quarters  they  commence  to  grow  when  placed 
under  favourable  conditions,  and  flower  about  three  months  afterwards. 

Of  plants  other  than  bulbs  that  are  particularly  valuable  for  the 
greenhouse  must  be  noted — 

The  Lily  of  the  Valley  (Convallaria  majalis),  which  is  a  universal 
favourite.  In  order  to  obtain  flowering  examples  early  in  the  season 
it  was  at  one  time  the  practice  to  subject  them  to  considerable  heat, 
but  as  the  crowns  are  now  retarded  in  the  same  way  as  the  Lilies  above 
referred  to  they  can  now  be  obtained  at  almost  any  season  without 
difficulty. 

Spiraeas. — The  feathery  plumes  of  Spiraa  japonica  and  the  nearly- 
related  kinds  are  always  admired,  while  the  fresh  green  deeply-cut 
leaves  are  also  handsome.  Spiraeas  give  but  little  trouble,  providing 
they  have  ample  supplies  of  water  when  growing.  The  newer  pink 
forms — Queen  Alexandra  and  Peach  Blossom — afford  a  pleasing  variety 
to  the  others. 

Solomon's   Seal  (Polygonatum   multiflorum)  is    very    ornamental 


316  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

when  several  crowns  are  put  together  in  a  good-sized  pot,  as  the  shoots 
dispose  themselves  in  a  very  graceful  manner. 

Dielytra  spectabilis,  sometimes  termed  the  Bleeding  Heart,  is  very 
much  grown  for  flowering  under  glass,  to  which  purpose  it  readily  adapts 
itself. 

While  this  enumeration  of  "  Hardy  Bulbous  and  other  Flowers  for  the 
Greenhouse  "  includes  the  most  suitable,  there  are  many  others  available 
for  the  same  purpose. 

Selection  of  Hyacinths  for  Pots— 

Single  White. — La  Grandesse,  L'Innocence,  Mme.  Van  Hop  (late), 
Albertine  (early),  Baroness  Von  Tuyll  (early),  Mr.  Plimsoll,  La  Franchise, 
Granderia  Merveille. 

Single  Red. — General  Pelissier,  La  Victoria  (early),  Roi  des  Beiges, 
Moreno,  Lady  Derby,  Jacques,  General  de  Wet,  Fabiola,  Gigantea. 

Single  Blue— King  of  the  Blues,  Moue,  Menelik,  Schotel,  Lord  Derby, 
Czar  Peter,  Blondin,  Potgieter. 

Single  Yellow. — King  of  the  Yellows,  Ida,  Orange  Blossom,  City  of 
Haarlem,  Jan  Steen,  Daylight. 

Single  Mauve  and  Purple. — Distinction,  Lord  Mayo,  Hon.  Mr.  Balfour, 
Laura. 

Double  White. — La  Tour  d'Auvergne,  Princess  Metternich  (blush), 
La  Grandesse. 

Double  Red. — Chestnut  Flower,  Noble  par  la  merite,  Kohinoor  (semi- 
double),  Princess  Louise. 

Double  Blue. — Louis  Philippe,  Bloksberg,  Van  Speyck,  Lord  Raglan, 
Mme.  Marmont. 

Narcissi  for  Pots — 

Trumpets. — Henry  Irving  (very  early),  Golden  Spar  (early),  King 
Alfred  (early),  Stromboli,  Emperor,  W.  P.  Milner,  Victoria,  Coronet, 
Madame  de  Graaff,  Princeps,  Duke  of  Bedford,  Weardale  Perfection. 

Short  Trumpets  and  Cups. — Lady  M.  Boscawen,  Sir  Watkin,  Queen 
Bess,  Cynosure,  Barrii  conspicuus,  Seagull,  Autocrat,  Crown  Prince, 
Mrs.  Langtry,  Blackwell,  Firebrand,  Duchess  of  Westminster,  Diana, 
Lucifer. 

Poeticus  Varieties. — Ornatus,  Homer,  Horace,  Ben  Jonson,  Grandi- 
florus  praecox. 

Bunch  Flowered. — Campernelle  jonquils,  Elvira,  Alsace,  Aspasia, 
Orient,  Irene,  Paper  White,  Mont  Cenis,  Grand  Monarque,  Soleil  d'Or, 
Dr.  Holland,  Bazelman  major. 

Tulips  best  adapted  for  pot  culture  are  as  follows  : 

Single. — Scarlet  Due  Van  Thol  (very  early);  Vermilion  Brilliant 
(bright  scarlet,  early);  Brunhilde  (syn.  Unique),  (white  with  yellow 


USEFUL  GREENHOUSE   PLANTS         317 

flames  on  outer  petals) ;  Cottage  Maid  (rosy-pink  and  white) ;  Duchess 
of  Parma  (orange-red,  bordered  yellow) ;  Jenny  (lovely  cerise  red) ; 
Lady  Boreal  or  White  Joost  v.  Vondel  (pure  white) ;  Keizerskroon  (red 
and  yellow) ;  La  Remarquable  (claret  edged  silvery  white) ;  Pink  Beauty 
(very  large  rose  and  white) ;  Macs  (scarlet) ;  Prince  of  Austria  (orange- 
red)  ;  Proserpine  (carmine-rose,  early) ;  Queen  of  the  Violets  (pale  purple) ; 
Rose  luisante  (deep  rose  and  white) ;  Thomas  Moore  (orange  and  yellow) ; 
Princess  Helene  (pure  white) ;  Prince  de  Ligny  (tall  pointed  yellow) ; 
Van  der  Neer  (purple);  White  Hawk  (pure  white);  Yellow  Prince 
(yellow). 

Double. — Murillo  (blush) ;  Couronne  d'Or  (yellow,  shaded  orange) ; 
Cochineal  (bright  crimson);  Sofrano  (pinkish  yellow);  Schoonoord 
(pure  white,  extra  good) ;  Tournesol  (red  and  yellow) ;  Vuurbaak  (orange- 
scarlet);  Salvator  Rosa  (semi-double,  rose  and  white);  Parmesiano 
rosy-red). 


ORCHIDS  FOR  BEGINNERS 


ORCHIDS  are  no  longer  charmed  flowers — their  classic  beauty 
shines  in  the  plant-house  of  the  amateur  gardener  ;  but  once, 
not  many  years  ago,  this  quixotic  plant  was  reserved  only 
for  those  whose  flower-loving  propensities  were  not  ham- 
pered by  financial  considerations.  Collectors,  brave  men, 
have  scoured  the  world  in  search  of  the  air  Orchids,  the 
Epiphytes,  whose  lives  are  spent  amid  the  tree  branches  of 
the  jungle,  and  sent  them  home  in  cartloads  from  all  quarters 
of  the  globe — from  the  mountains  of  Mexico,  from  the  swamps 
of  the  Tropics  and  from  the  pleasant  mountain  heights ;  the 
family,  through  their  cosmopolitan  distribution,  requiring, 
when  brought  under  home  influence,  treatment  of  a  varying 
kind.  Of  course,  the  tyro  in  things  botanical  or  horticultural 
knows  that  in  these  little  isles  of  ours  many  charming  Orchids 
are  happy  in  chalky  downs  or  cliffs,  or  in  the  lush  meadow, 
and  of  these  the  Bee  Orchis  and  Spotted  Orchis  occur  to  mind 
as  flowers  worthy  of  a  special  place  in  the  rock-garden.  An 
Orchid  flower  is  an  interesting  study,  and  its  fertilisation  one 
of  the  most  fascinating  experiments  to  the  botanist,  or  he  who 
strives  to  raise  new  forms  by  joining  together  two  species  to 
produce  a  hybrid.  Though  the  Orchids  apparently  differ  so 
greatly  from  each  other,  they  are  botanically  of  the  same 
family,  and  the  flowers  assume  many  strange,  grotesque,  and 
beautiful  forms — some  almost  deceiving  the  careless  observer 
by  their  resemblance  to  some  insect,  others  rejecting  the 
common  mode  of  sustenance  by  seeking  the  tree  branches,  to 
which  they  cling  by  their  thick  white  roots,  deriving  from  the 
moist  atmosphere  their  life's  support.  Orchids  are  not  para- 
sites. A  parasite  is  a  plant  that  lives  upon  its  host,  but  to  the 
Epiphyte  the  tree  is  simply  a  support.  A  wonderful  organ  of 
the  flower  is  the  lip,  or  "  labellum,"  to  use  botanical  language, 
and  this  assumes  many  strange  shapes,  sometimes  reminding 
one  of  a  pouch,  as  in  the  Cypripedium  or  Lady  Slipper,  and 
sometimes  it  is  so  lightly  attached  to  the  main  part  of  the  flower 
that  the  least  breath  of  wind  causes  movement,  whilst  in  the 
waxy  Angraecums  the  lip  is  lengthened  into  a  spur  filled  with 

318 


ORCHIDS   FOR   BEGINNERS  319 

nectary,  for  the  long  proboscis  of  insects  to  drink  the  sweet 
contents.  It  is  also  noticeable  that  the  colour  is  frequently 
concentrated  in  this  labellum,  probably  to  attract  the  attention 
of  insects,  who  are  thus  drawn  to  the  flower  to  seek  for  nectar, 
and  innocently  fertilise  it  by  removing  pollen,  which,  when 
the  intruder  enters  another  flower,  results  in  fertilisation ; 
hence  seed  is  obtained. 

Many  of  the  most  beautiful  Orchids  in  cultivation  are  the 
result  of  hybridisation  by  human  agency.  The  hybridst,  as 
he  is  called,  sees  two  flowers  likely  to  produce  a  distinct  or 
beautiful  offspring,  and  fertilises  the  two  to  effect  his  object. 
But  so  much  has  been  written  upon  this  subject  by  Darwin, 
that  it  is  needless  to  make  further  reference  to  it  in  a  simple 
work  of  this  kind. 

When  Orchids  were  first  exported  from  their  native  haunts 
to  the  hothouses  of  Europe  they  were  destroyed  in  cartloads 
by  improper  treatment.  This  is  no  exaggeration.  Everything 
that  came  from  over  the  seas  was  regarded  as  exotic,  and  that 
meant  a  stewing  temperature  at  complete  variance  to  the  natural 
conditions  surrounding  the  plant.  Of  course  the  unfortunate 
Orchids  died  wholesale.  To  treat  an  Odontoglossum  coming 
from  the  snow-line  as  an  exotic  is,  of  course,  to  exterminate  it ; 
but  happily  we  know  more  of  the  world  than  we  did  sixty 
years  ago,  when  Orchid-hunters  sent  over  their  possessions  to 
Europe  ;  and  the  following  notes  about  the  best  kinds  for  the 
beginner  to  consider,  with  cultural  hints,  will,  it  is  hoped, 
prove  the  means  of  preventing  many  failures.  It  is  not 
pleasant  to  fail,  especially  when  the  death  of  a  plant  means 
a  financial  loss.  Beginners  with  limited  means  are  strongly 
advised  to  commence  with  quite  the  cheaper  kinds,  and  by 
cheap  we  do  not  mean  flowers  of  little  beauty.  Many  of  the 
most  precious  Orchids,  the  lovely  Odontoglossum  crispum  as 
an  example,  are  ridiculously  cheap,  costing  little  more  when 
imported  than  the  scarlet  Geranium  of  a  cottage  window. 

The  House. — The  house  in  which  to  grow  the  plants  must 
necessarily  receive  first  consideration.  This  need  not  signify 
an  expensive  outlay.  A  house  in  which  the  temperature  can 
be  maintained  at  from  45  degrees  to  50  degrees  in  cold 
weather  will  be  found  suitable  for  many  of  the  most  useful, 
beautiful,  and  interesting  species  of  the  Orchid  family.  One 
of  the  chief  considerations  should  be  the  matter  of 

Ventilation,  but  it  is  the  usual  system  now  in  the  con- 
struction of  glass-houses  to  make  ample  provision  so  as  to 
ensure  ventilation  in  the  side  walls  almost  opposite  the  hot- 
water  pipes,  and  also  in  the  roof,  so  that  a  free  circulation  of 


320  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

air  can  be  provided.  This  is  as  necessary  for  cool-house 
Orchids  in  summer  as  the  protection  against  frost  during  the 
colder  months  of  the  year.  With  regard  to  the  plants  which 
require  intermediate  and  stove-house  culture,  the  ordinary 
conditions  usually  provided  for  warm  greenhouse  and  stove 
plants  will  be  found  ample  to  meet  the  requirements  of  these 
sections  of  Orchids. 

Orchids  as  Town  Plants. — It  is  a  most  interesting  fact  that 
many  of  the  largest  and  best  collections  of  Orchids  in  this 
country,  both  in  trade  and  private  establishments,  are  in 
London  and  other  large  towns  and  smoky  districts.  Fogs 
and  absence  of  light  are  drawbacks,  causing  loss  of  bloom 
during  the  winter  months,  otherwise  there  is  little  to  com- 
plain of.  In  fact,  the  Orchid  plants  withstand  the  unfavour- 
able atmospheric  conditions  above  mentioned  far  better  than 
soft- wooded,  greenhouse,  and  ornamental  foliaged  stove  plants 
generally  grown  by  amateurs.  The  writer  has  been  em- 
ployed amongst  Orchids  in  town  districts  for  the  greater 
part  of  the  last  twenty-five  years.  It  must  be  admitted  that 
the  flowers  are  destroyed  wholesale  by  fog,  especially  among 
the  warm-growing  sections,  but  the  majority  of  the  species 
and  hybrids,  which  are  the  most  suitable  subjects  for  be- 
ginners, belong  to  the  cool  and  intermediate-house,  and 
are,  therefore,  not  so  susceptible  to  unfavourable  atmospheric 
conditions. 

Their  Culture. — A  good  collection  of  cool  and  warm-house 
Orchids  can  be  procured  as  cheaply  and  cultivated  with  equal 
success  as  a  house  of  Ferns  or  other  plants.  When,  however, 
the  collection  is  large  and  expensive,  a  man  of  experience  is 
indispensable.  Any  enthusiastic  plant  cultivator  who  can 
successfully  cultivate  other  plants  may  prove  successful  with 
Orchids  also.  To  make  the  cultural  conditions  of  the  various 
species  plainly  understood,  particulars  are  given  of  each 
species  as  they  are  referred  to. 

Anguloa  (The  Cradle  Orchid). — This  handsome  Orchid  in  all  its 
varieties  may  be  successfully  grown  in  the  cool  intermediate-house. 
The  plants  require  plenty  of  moisture  at  the  roots  during  the  growing 
season,  but  as  soon  as  the  growths  have  matured  give  only  sufficient  to 
prevent  the  pseudo-bulbs  from  shrivelling.  The  flowers  are  produced 
with  the  young  growths  in  the  early  summer,  and  the  best  time  to  repot 
is  when  the  new  roots  are  coming  from  the  base  of  the  young  growth. 
The  potting  compost  required  consists  of  two  parts  peat  to  one  of 
sphagnum  moss.  Ample  drainage  must  be  afforded. 

Cattleyas. — These  are  among  the  best  of  the  Orchids  for  beginners, 


ORCHIDS   FOR   BEGINNERS  321 

and  require  similar  soil  and  treatment  to  that  recommended  for  Lselias, 
which  see.  Repotting  should  be  done  just  as  new  roots  begin  to  form, 
generally  in  the  spring.  The  work  is  described  in  the  illustrations. 

Cymbidium. — Such  species  as  C.  Lowii,  C.  giganteum,  C.  tracy- 
anum,  and  C.  eburneum,  may  be  accommodated  in  the  fernery  or  cool 
intermediate-house.  The  plants  are  useful  and  interesting.  They  bear 
their  flower-spikes  early  in  the  spring,  and  remain  for  several  weeks  in 
perfection.  A  compost  of  one  part  fibrous  yellow  loam  and  the  remain- 
ing portion  made  up  of  fibrous  peat,  dried  cow  manure,  sphagnum 
moss,  and  rough  sand  or  broken  crocks  is  required.  The  plants  should 
have  ample  pot  room,  and,  being  strong  rooting,  should  not  be  disturbed 
oftener  than  is  really  necessary.  They  must  have  ample  drainage,  re- 
quire a  liberal  supply  of  moisture  during  the  active  season  of  growth, 
and  must  never  be  allowed  to  suffer  from  want  of  moisture  at  the  roots. 
A  cool,  moist  atmosphere  suits  them  best  during  the  summer  months  of 
the  year. 

Cypripediums  (Lady's  Slippers}. — There  is  not  a  more  varied  and 
easily  cultivated  class  of  Orchids  than  the  cool  and  intermediate-house 
Cypripediums  of  the  eastern  section.  The  geographical  distribution  of 
the  various  species  is  confined  to  a  limited  space  within  the  Indian 
monsoon  region,  where  they  sometimes  follow  mountainous  chains,  on 
which  the  species  occur  in  groups  of  twos  or  threes,  or  are  isolated  at 
great  distances  from  each  other.  Others  are  confined  to  islands  or 
groups  of  islands.  In  the  former  case  they  usually  occur  at  consider- 
able elevation,  where  the  rainfall  is  copious  and  frequent  and  the  dry 
seasons  are  of  short  duration. 

The  kinds  that  are  confined  to  islands  grow  at  a  much  lower  eleva- 
tion. These  naturally  require  higher  temperatures  than  the  mountain 
species.  It  is  therefore  to  the  cool-growing  section  that  the  beginner's 
attention  is  directed.  The  majority  of  these  lend  themselves  readily  to 
artificial  conditions,  and  with  a  few  exceptions,  the  cool-growing  kinds, 
not  only  retain  their  normal  vigour,  but  the  cultural  effect  is  apparent 
by  increased  size,  substance,  and  more  highly-coloured  markings  of  the 
foliage.  The  flowers  also  are  in  many  cases  larger,  and  the  usual  one- 
flowered  scape  occasionally  becomes  twin-flowered.  This,  no  doubt,  is 
caused  by  the  more  liberal  and  regular  treatment  that  can  be  afforded 
the  plants  when  cultivated  in  our  glass-houses. 

The  intermediate-house  section  requires  a  temperature  of  55  degrees. 
The  following  species  and  hybrids  will  be  found  suitable  : — C.  barbatum, 
C.  callosum,  C.  bellatulum,  C.  venustum,  C.  Charlesworthi,  C.  niveum, 
C.  concolor,  and  the  natural  hybrid  C.  Godefroyce,  C.  Druryi,  C.  hirsutis- 
simum,  C.  spicerianum,  and  the  hybrids  that  have  been  derived  from  the 
intercrossing  of  the  above-mentioned  species,  also  those  derived  from 
the  influence  of  one  of  the  hot  or  the  cool-house  section. 

The  potting  material  required  differs  according  to  the  locality.  In 
districts  where  the  atmosphere  is  pure  and  free  from  the  poisonous  gases 
such  as  prevail  during  the  winter  months  in  the  neighbourhood  of  large 
towns,  the  compost  may  be  two  parts  fibrous  peat  to  one  of  sphagnum 

X 


322  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

moss.  To  this  may  be  added  a  liberal  sprinkling  of  fibrous  loam  and 
sufficient  rough  sand,  or  finely  broken  crock,  to  retain  an  open  and 
porous  condition.  In  town  districts  the  use  of  loam  must  be  avoided. 
C.  bellatulum  and  its  allies  may  be  potted  only  in  lime  rubble,  or  the 
latter  mixed  with  fibrous  peat.  The  plants  should  also  have  a  light 
position  close  to  the  roof  glass.  The  pots  used  should  be  drained  to 
two-thirds  their  depth  with  clean  broken  crocks,  and  only  be  sufficiently 
large  to  contain  them  comfortably.  After  the  plants  have  been  put 
in  position  the  potting  compost  may  be  pressed  moderately  firm  about 
the  roots,  mounding  slightly  towards  the  centre,  and  finishing  with  the 
base  of  the  plant  just  below  the  rim  of  the  pot.  After  potting  water 
thoroughly  with  soft  rain  water,  which  should  be  poured  through  a 
moderately  coarse  rose  on  the  can.  Rain  water  is  most  necessary,  as 
when  hard  water  is  used  it  soon  kills  the  moss,  which  quickly  turns 
sour,  and,  decay  thus  commenced,  quickly  spreads  into  the  remaining 
portions  of  the  compost.  Water  must  be  carefully  given  until  the 
roots  get  hold  of  the  new  compost,  then  more  liberal  conditions  may  be 
afforded.  Damp  down  the  floors  and  staging  twice  a  day  in  winter 
when  the  temperature  is  normal.  When  the  temperature  is  low,  owing 
to  unfavourable  conditions  outside,  the  atmosphere  must  not  be  too 
moist.  During  the  hotter  months  of  the  year  charge  the  house  heavily 
with  atmospheric  moisture,  which  may  be  easily  provided  by  frequent 
dampings.  The  house  may  also  be  freely  ventilated  when  the  tempera- 
ture has  advanced  above  60  degrees.  In  ventilating  take  care  to  avoid 
direct  draughts,  and  give  careful  shading  in  bright  weather. 

The  cool-house  Cypripediums  require  a  temperature  of  about  50 
degrees  Fahr.,and  their  requirements  may  be  provided  by  anyone  in  the 
possession  of  a  greenhouse,  where  the  above-mentioned  temperature 
can  be  maintained  in  cold  weather.  The  potting  compost  is  the  same 
as  advised  for  the  intermediate-house  section.  The  cool-growing  kinds 
are  perhaps  the  most  useful  of  the  whole  of  the  Cypripediums ;  they 
bloom  when  other  flowers  are  scarce,  i.e.  during  the  winter  months 
from  the  end  of  October  to  the  beginning  of  April.  Their  varied 
characteristics,  combined  with  good  substance  and  lasting  qualities, 
render  them  useful  for  market  and  to  use  as  cut  flowers.  Plants  may 
in  most  cases  be  procured  for  a  modest  outlay  of  a  few  shillings.  One 
of  the  best  is  Cypripedium  insigne,  a  species  which  was  until  recently 
regarded  as  almost  too  common  to  grow ;  but  since  Orchids  have  be- 
come more  popular  for  cutting  it  has  proved  one  of  the  most  useful 
kinds  for  the  purpose.  So  much  is  it  valued  that  one  of  the  largest 
market  growers  says  that  even  in  the  glut  of  the  season  he  could 
easily  procure  threepence  each  for  the  flowers,  and  after  the  New  Year 
they  realised  much  higher  prices.  Later  importations  of  C.  insigne  have 
yielded  some  wonderful  varieties,  among  them  many  of  dark  colours 
and  heavily  spotted  forms  of  large  proportions,  others  delicately  tinted 
with  green  and  yellow.  Several  among  them,  though  purchased  for  a 
few  shillings,  have  proved  of  most  priceless  value,  as  much  as  150  guineas 
having  been  paid  for  small  plants  in  some  instances.  This  illustrates 


ORCHIDS  FOR   BEGINNERS  323 

the  desirability  of  procuring  imported  plants.  One  could  quote  several 
instances  in  which  the  buyer  of  a  single  plant,  for  the  modest  outlay  of 
less  than  half  a  crown,  has  obtained  a  form  of  great  value.  The  im- 
portations of  this  species  generally  arrive  in  the  early  spring. 

Other  species  such  as  C.  villosum  and  C.  Boxallii  require  a  liberal 
supply  of  moisture  throughout  the  year,  but  during  the  months  from 
March  to  October  an  abundance  of  moisture  also  at  the  roots.  They 
may  in  each  case  be  kept  a  little  drier  at  the  roots  for  a  few  weeks  after 
the  flowers  have  been  removed.  The  repotting  of  the  cool  section  should 
be  done  in  early  spring. 

Propagation. — The  best  way  to  increase  the  stock  is  by  division. 
If  three  or  more  growths,  with  foliage,  are  formed  successively  on  the 
rhizome,  the  two  front  ones  may  be  parted  by  carefully  cutting  through 
the  rhizome  between  the  second  and  third ;  carefully  remove  these 
with  as  much  root  as  possible,  leaving  the  old  growth  untouched. 
These  back  growths  generally  break  freely,  and  in  a  short  time  make 
good  plants.  The  part  removed  may  be  potted  up  in  the  usual  way. 
The  best  period  at  which  to  divide  Cypripediums  is  when  the  new  roots 
are  being  emitted  from  the  base  of  the  young  or  last-made  growth. 
When  divisions  are  made  of  plants  in  this  condition,  with  due  en- 
couragement, they  quickly  re-establish  themselves  in  their  new  quarters. 
Freshly  potted  plants,  especially  where  divisions  have  been  made,  should 
be  carefully  shaded  from  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun. 

Dendrobium. — Some  of  the  species  of  the  deciduous  section,  such 
as  D.  nobile  and  its  allied  species  and  varieties,  will  thrive  at  the  warm 
end  of  the  intermediate-house ;  but  the  majority  are  happier  in  a  hot- 
house. They  are  not  recommended  for  cool  treatment.  D.  infundi- 
bulum  and  its  allied  form  D.  jamesianum  succeed  grown  with  the  Odonto- 
glossums  in  the  cool-house.  D.  japonicum  may  also  be  grown  here  during 
the  summer  months,  but  the  temperature  of  the  cool  intermediate-house  is 
more  suitable.  The  pots  should  be  well  drained  and  the  potting  com- 
post consist  of  chopped  sphagnum  moss  and  a  little  fibrous  peat.  Water 
freely  during  the  growing  season,  very  little  indeed  being  required  after 
the  growths  have  reached  maturity. 

£isa  grandiflora. — This  is  one  of  the  finest  of  cool-house  Orchids. 
It  is  a  native  of  the  Table  Mountain  of  the  Cape,  and  during  the  growing 
season  requires  a  free  circulation  of  air  at  all  times.  It  should  be  fre- 
quently syringed  whenever  the  outside  conditions  are  favourable.  The 
potting  compost  will  also  require  to  be  kept  moist,  especially  after  the 
flower  spikes  commence  to  develop.  They  will  require  a  continuation 
of  liberal  treatment  until  the  flowers  have  been  removed,  after  which 
period  only  sufficient  moisture  will  be  required  to  keep  the  tubers  plump. 
Repotting  should  be  carried  out  in  the  early  spring,  using  ample  drainage 
and  a  compost  of  equal  portions  of  peat  and  chopped  sphagnum,  adding 
a  liberal  sprinkling  of  rough  sand  and  pressing  the  compost  moderately 
firm.  They  do  well  in  a  cold  frame,  where  they  must  be  kept  shaded 
during  the  summer  months  and  be  protected  from  frost  in  winter.  This 
is  by  far  the  finest  species  of  the  South  African  Orchids.  Several  hybrids 


3 24  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

have  been  obtained  by  using  D.  grandiflora  as  one  of  the  parents.  These 
form  charming  additions  and  generally  possess  better  constitutions  than 
the  parent  species,  and  are  worthy  of  every  consideration.  W atsoni 
and  Kewensis  are  very  free  both  in  growth  and  bloom. 

Epidendrum. — This  is  a  very  large  family,  comprising  several 
kinds  that  may  be  regarded  as  suitable  for  beginners  ;  but  the  only  one 
selected  from  which  the  greatest  amount  of  pleasure  will  be  derived  is 
E.  vitellinum  majus.  This  is  one  of  the  most  charming  of  cool-house 
Orchids,  producing  brilliant  orange-scarlet  flowers  on  graceful  racemes, 
which  last  for  months  in  perfection.  It  succeeds  well  with  the  Odonto- 
glossums,  requiring  similar  conditions  as  regards  potting  and  during  the 
active  season  of  growth.  When  the  resting  time  arrives,  that  is,  after 
the  flowers  have  been  removed,  water  may  be  almost  entirely  with- 
held, as  the  moisture  in  this  division  is  sufficient  to  maintain  a  plump 
condition  of  the  bulbs.  When  growth  commences  give  liberal  treatment 
to  encourage  a  free  growth. 

Lselia. — The  Mexican  Lselias  form  a  delightful  group  of  late  autumn 
and  winter  flowering  Orchids.  They  require  almost  full  sun,  with  free 
ventilation  in  summer,  and  a  temperature  of  not  less  than  55  de- 
grees Fahr.  in  winter,  until  the  flower-spikes  are  removed,  after  which, 
under  drier  and  resting  conditions,  50  degrees,  or  even  less,  will  not 
be  hurtful.  The  potting  compost  should  consist  of  equal  parts  of  fibrous 
peat  and  living  sphagnum  moss,  and  to  this  may  be  added  a  liberal  sprink- 
ling of  broken  crocks.  Give  plenty  of  drainage,  as  the  plants  require  an 
abundance  of  root  moisture  during  the  growing  season,  and  avoid 
stagnation.  After  repotting,  thoroughly  water  the  plants  with  soft 
rain  water,  keeping  them  slightly  shaded  for  a  few  days,  until  the  new 
roots  take  hold  of  the  material,  after  which,  providing  there  are  ample 
facilities  for  free  ventilation,  little  shading  will  be  required.  Syringe 
the  plants  overhead,  once  or  twice  in  the  morning,  when  the  weather  is 
bright,  and  again  in  the  afternoon,  as  soon  as  the  sun  goes  down.  The 
house  should  be  closed  previously  to  syringing  in  the  afternoon,  as  by  so 
doing  a  hot,  humid  atmosphere  is  obtained.  This  must  be  done  suffi- 
ciently early  to  allow  the  foliage  of  the  plants  to  become  dry,  and  the 
atmospheric  moisture  condensed  before  the  cool  night  temperature  sets 
in.  The  best  time  to  repot  is  when  the  new  roots  make  their  appear- 
ance at  the  base  of  the  last  made  growth.  The  best  kinds  for  the  above 
treatment  are  L.  albida,  L.  anceps,  L.  autumnalis,  L.  cinnabarina,  L. 
furfuracea,  L.  harpophylla,  L.  majalis,  and  L.  superbiens. 

Under  the  more  shady  conditions  of  the  intermediate-house,  the 
following  kinds  will  be  found  most  useful.  Their  compact  habit  and 
miniature  stature  render  them  desirable  for  shallow  pan  or  basket 
culture,  so  that  they  may  be  suspended  near  the  roof.  The  potting 
compost  required  should  be  the  same  as  recommended  for  the  Mexican 
section.  They  require  a  liberal  amount  of  root  moisture  during  the 
active  season  of  growth,  but  only  sufficient  will  be  required  while  dor- 
mant to  retain  a  normal  condition  of  the  pseudo-bulbs — L.  dayana,  L. 
pumila,  and  L.  prastans.  These  three  species  may  be  purchased  im- 


ORCHIDS   FOR   BEGINNERS  325 

ported,  in  their  proper  season,  for  a  few  shillings.  They  form  a  most 
useful  and  desirable  class  of  plants.  Cattleyas  and  Lselias  require  a 
winter  temperature  of  not  less  than  60  degrees  Fahr.  The  yellow- 
flowered  Cattleya  citrina  may  be  successfully  grown  suspended  on  blocks 
near  the  glass  in  the  cool  intermediate-house. 

Masdevallia.— The  majority  of  the  Masdevallias  that  may  be 
grown  by  beginners  belong  to  the  large-flowered  section.  The  Mas- 
devallias are  alpines  of  the  Andes  of  South  America,  being  found  on  the 
higher  slopes  above  the  forest,  some  of  the  species  occurring  near  the 
snow-line.  The  majority  are  found  at  an  altitude  of  from  9000  to 
12,000  feet  elevation,  where  the  atmosphere  is  constantly  charged  with 
moisture  arising  from  the  hot  plains  below.  The  days  are  temperate, 
but  the  nights  exceedingly  cold.  This  section  may  be  easily  cultivated 
in  a  cool  fernery  or  a  shady  house,  where  an  abundant  supply  of  mois- 
ture may  be  obtained  during  the  dry  summer  months.  The  normal 
night  temperature  of  the  house  during  the  winter  should  be  50  degrees 
or  less  in  cold  weather,  but  with  low  temperatures  the  plants  must  be 
allowed  to  become  drier  at  the  roots,  and  the  atmospheric  moisture 
reduced  accordingly.  The  plants  are  not  injured  by  a  cool  degree  of 
temperature  for  a  time,  when  they  are  dry  at  the  roots. 

The  day  temperature  should  be  5  degrees  higher  than  the  night. 
In  summer  keep  the  house  as  cool  as  possible  by  free  and  early  ventila- 
tion, heavy  shading  and  constant  damping  down  of  the  floors,  staging, 
&c.  The  large-flowered  Masdevallias  may  be  purchased  for  a  modest 
outlay,  well  within  the  reach  of  the  most  humble  amateur.  They  re- 
quire a  potting  compost  of  two  parts  sphagnum  moss  to  one  of  fibrous 
peat.  The  pots  used  should  be  drained  to  two-thirds  their  depth  with 
clean  broken  crocks,  and  after  the  plant  has  been  placed  in  position,  work 
the  compost  about  it,  keeping  the  base  just  below  the  rim  of  the  pot, 
and  slightly  mounding  the  compost  towards  the  centre.  The  best  time 
to  repot  is  September  and  October.  After  potting  thoroughly  water 
the  plants  with  rain  water  poured  through  a  moderately  coarse  rose  on 
the  water  can.  During  the  winter,  after  the  plants  have  become  re- 
established, little  water  will  be  required,  only  sufficient  to  keep  them 
plump,  but  with  the  return  of  spring  new  growth  begins,  when  they 
will  require  an  abundance  of  moisture.  Ventilation  and  shading  must 
at  all  times  be  governed  by  the  external  conditions  prevailing,  but 
with  ordinary  observation  no  difficulty  whatever  should  be  experienced 
in  successfully  cultivating  this  section.  They  are  a  success  under  the 
same  conditions  as  provided  for  Odontoglossums,  if  placed  on  the  shady 
side  of  the  house.  The  best  kinds  to  commence  with  are  M.  amabilis, 
M.  harryana  in  its  varied  forms,  M.  ignea,  and  M.  Veitchii.  There  are 
many  varieties  of  miniature  growth  that  are  not  interesting.  These  are 
suitable  for  basket  or  pan  suspended  from  the  roof.  The  potting  compost 
and  treatment  should  be  similar  to  that  recommended  above.  The  most 
interesting  of  these  are  M.  polysticta,  M.  armenaica,  M.  caudata  (Shuttle- 
worthii\  M.  muscosa  with  its  sensitive  lip,  M.  Simula,  M.  rosea,  M. 
triangularis ,  and  M.  wagneriana.  There  are  also  numerous  hybrids 


326  GARDENING  FOR   BEGINNERS 

derived  from  the  intercrossing  of  these  sections,  that  are  worthy  of  every 
attention.  The  M.  chimara  section  and  those  belonging  to  the  thick- 
leaved  varieties  allied  to  M.  leontoglossa  are  best  grown  in  a  temperature 
of  not  less  than  55  degrees  in  winter,  and  are  most  suitable  for  basket 
culture. 

Maxillaria. — Several  varieties  of  Maxillarias  are  suitable  for  be- 
ginners, especially  those  that  thrive  well  in  the  cool-house,  either  grown 
with  the  Odontoglossums  or  with  the  Masdevallias.  They  require  the 
same  potting  material,  and  should  in  all  cases  have  ample  drainage. 
They  require  an  abundance  of  water  at  the  roots  during  the  growing  season, 
and  should  never  be  allowed  to  suffer  from  want  of  moisture  at  the  roots 
whilst  dormant.  The  best  kinds  for  amateurs  are  M.  venusta,  M.  gran- 
diflora,  M.  luteo-alba,  and  M.  sanderiana.  The  last-named  kind  should 
be  placed  under  slightly  warmer  conditions  from  October  and  April. 

Miltonia. — With  few  exceptions  the  species  and  hybrids,  both 
natural  and  raised  at  home,  may  be  grown  successfully  in  a  house  where 
the  temperature  does  not  fall  below  50  degrees  Fahr.  at  night.  The  most 
easily  cultivated  is  M.  vexillaria.  This  Orchid  produces  flower-scapes, 
bearing  several  flat  pansy-like  flowers  in  various  tints  from  white  to 
rose.  This  species  and  its  varieties  are  amongst  the  most  perfect  and 
distinct  in  colour  of  the  entire  race  of  Orchids.  They  require  a  potting 
compost  of  two  parts  living  sphagnum  moss  to  one  of  fibrous  peat.  The 
pots  should  be  drained  to  two-thirds  their  depth  with  clean  broken 
crocks  and  the  plant  placed  in  the  centre  of  the  pot,  so  that  the  base  of 
the  new  growth  is  level  with  the  rim.  After  spreading  out  the  roots, 
work  the  compost  carefully  among  them  and  press  moderately  firm,  and 
finish  off  with  a  mounding  slightly  to  the  centre,  but  be  brought  up 
sufficiently  high  so  that  the  new  roots  may  be  just  beneath  the  surface. 
They  will  thus  grow  quickly  away  and  establish  themselves  in  the  new 
material.  The  best  time  to  repot  M.  vexillaria  is  in  the  spring,  when 
the  new  growth  is  commencing  to  form  the  bulb.  This  is  the  period 
at  which  the  new  roots  are  being  emitted  and  just  before  the  flower- 
spikes  are  produced.  After  repotting  water  freely  with  soft  rain  water. 
The  plants  will  require  plenty  of  root  moisture  from  now  until  the  flowers 
are  expanded,  and  when  these  commence  to  fade  gradually  decrease  the 
moisture  at  the  roots  until  the  new  growths  are  about  three  inches  long. 
Only  sufficient  moisture  should  be  given  to  maintain  a  plump  condi- 
tion of  the  pseudo-bulb  until  the  young  growths  get  well  away  from  the 
base,  after  which  more  liberal  treatment  may  be  afforded.  They  should 
have  a  position  within  reasonable  distance  of  the  roof-glass.  Although 
they  need  protection  from  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun,  an  abundance 
of  light  is  appreciated.  The  same  remarks  apply  to  nearly  all  the 
kinds  except  M.  Roezlii  and  M.  Phalcenopsis,  which  need  a  temperature 
of  not  less  than  60  degrees  Fahr.  in  winter.  Those  belonging  to  the 
M.  spectabilis  section  require  plenty  of  strong  light  to  induce  them  to 
flower  satisfactorily,  and  may  be  grown  under  the  same  conditions  as 
the  Mexican  Lselias. 

Odontoglossum. — As  Orchids  for  amateurs  none  are  so  charming, 


ORCHIDS  FOR   BEGINNERS  327 

useful,  or  more  easily  grown  than  the  various  species  of  Odontoglossum. 
If  kept  cool  during  the  hot  summer  months  they  may  be  easily  cultivated 
in  the  ordinary  greenhouse ;  but  in  the  neighbourhood  of  large  towns, 
owing  to  the  subdued  light  during  several  months  of  the  year,  it  is 
almost  impossible  to  obtain  flowers  of  firm  texture.  Especially  is  this 
the  case  when  the  flower-spikes  are  developing  during  the  winter  to 
reach  their  full  beauty  in  early  spring.  Fortunately  the  seasons  vary, 
and  under  favourable  conditions  many  of  these  difficulties  are  overcome. 
Considering  the  high  prices  now  realised  for  exceptional  varieties  of 
0.  crispum  the  beginner  should  purchase  imported  plants  of  this  species. 
There  is  always  more  pleasure  to  be  derived  from  imported  plants 
than  from  those  in  which  the  variety  has  been  determined.  The  pur- 
chaser of  a  bag  of  plants  for  half  a  crown  may  procure  varieties  of 
sterling  merit.  The  writer  witnessed  the  sale  of  a  plant  some  few  years 
back  which  was  bought  with  two  others  in  a  bag  at  the  above-mentioned 
price.  When  it  flowered  for  the  first  time,  less  than  two  years  after- 
wards, it  was  again  submitted  to  auction  in  Steven's  Rooms  and  realised 
£165.  Many  instances  of  this  kind  could  be  pointed  out.  It  is  re- 
markable that  the  finest  spotted  varieties  of  0.  crispum,  which  are  now 
so  much  sought  after,  have  with  few  exceptions  appeared  among  roots 
sold  in  small  lots  and  at  a  low  price.  Some  profess  to  know  the  better 
forms  of  the  bulb ;  but  in  the  selection  of  varieties  amongst  imported 
plants  the  purchaser  of  a  single  plant  is  just  as  likely  to  procure  the  best 
variety  in  the  importation  as  the  man  who  buys  extensively.  In  the 
second  place,  the  imported  plants  generally  grow  more  satisfactorily 
than  those  that  are  removed  from  one  collection  to  another  after  they 
have  become  established. 

The  Treatment  of  Imported  Plants.— The  plants,  as  soon  as  re- 
ceived, should  be  laid  out  on  a  damp  bottom,  such  as  a  layer  of  sphag- 
num moss,  on  the  stage  in  a  cool,  shady  position.  They  may  be  allowed 
to  remain  until  the  plants  begin  to  regain  their  normal  condition  or 
commence  growing.  As  soon  as  they  show  signs  of  rooting,  pot  them. 
Another  system  is  to  pot  up  the  plants  as  soon  as  received.  The  pots 
used  in  either  case  should  be  only  sufficiently  large  to  contain  the  plants, 
and  be  drained  to  two-thirds  their  depth  with  clean  broken  crocks. 
After  the  plants  have  been  placed  in  position  in  the  centre,  the  remain- 
ing space  should  be  filled  with  the  potting  compost  of  equal  portions  of 
fibrous  peat  and  chopped  living  sphagnum  moss,  which  must  be  pressed 
moderately  firm.  Where  it  can  be  procured,  chop  up  the  large  fern  roots 
which  are  found  in  the  peat,  and  use  this  instead  of  the  crocks  for 
drainage.  Thoroughly  water  the  plants  with  soft  rain  water  as  soon  as 
potting  is  finished  ;  they  may  then  be  placed  in  their  allotted  position 
on  the  stage.  It  is  advisable  that  fresh  imported  plants  be  kept  on  the 
coolest  and  dampest  side  of  the  house.  They  must  be  carefully  watered, 
and  avoid  excess,  as  this  causes  the  young  growth  to  damp  and  die  off 
at  the  base.  As  the  plants  become  established,  they  may  want  repotting, 
which  is  best  done  when  the  growth  commences  to  form  the  new  bulb. 
This  is  the  rooting  season,  and  the  plants  quickly  get  hold  of  the  new 


328  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

compost  and  become  re-established.  For  repotting  Odontoglossums 
choose  September.  They  must  be  carefully  shaded  from  direct  sun  after 
repotting,  and  the  house  kept  rather  closer  for  a  few  weeks,  with  plenty 
of  humidity  in  the  atmosphere. 

Odontoglossums  require  careful  summer  treatment.  It  is  difficult 
to  keep  the  plants  cool  in  the  hottest  part  of  the  day,  but  with  heavy 
shading,  frequent  damping  of  the  floors,  staging,  &c.,  and  ample  ventila- 
tion, it  is  possible  to  maintain  the  temperature  below  the  prevailing 
conditions  outside.  The  inside  temperature  in  summer  should  be  re- 
tained about  60  degrees,  the  lower  ventilators  being  allowed  to  remain 
open  whenever  55  degrees  are  indicated  inside.  It  is  wise  to  close  the 
roof  ventilators  when  damping  for  the  last  time  in  the  summer  afternoon, 
opening  again  later  in  the  evening  after  the  moisture  has  had  time  to 
condense.  Keep  the  atmosphere  well  charged  with  moisture  whenever 
the  outside  conditions  are  warm  and  bright.  The  plants  must  not  be 
allowed  to  shrivel  through  want  of  moisture  at  the  roots  at  any  season 
of  the  year.  During  the  winter  months  maintain  an  even  temperature 
of  50  degrees,  and  if  the  temperature  falls  below  this,  resort  to  artificial 
heat,  but  do  not  use  more  artificial  warmth  than  is  absolutely 
necessary. 

The  house  most  suitable  for  the  culture  of  Odontoglossums  is  a  span- 
roof  facing  east  and  west,  affording  ample  means  for  ventilation  both  in 
the  roof  and  along  the  side  walls.  During  the  summer  months,  when 
the  weather  is  very  hot,  provide  a  trellis  to  fit  the  doorway.  This  pre- 
vents birds  or  animals  getting  into  the  house.  The  blinds  should  be 
raised  well  above  the  glass,  so  that  a  free  circulation  of  air  may  be  pro- 
cured and  the  glass  kept  cooler  in  hot  weather.  The  lath  roller  blinds 
are  the  most  suitable,  as  they  serve  two  purposes,  viz.,  as  a  screen  from 
the  sun  in  summer  and  as  a  protection  on  cold  nights  in  winter.  Every 
provision  should  be  made  for  the  storage  of  rain  water.  The  stages 
should  be  covered  with  coke  breeze  about  two  inches  deep,  and  the 
plants  arranged  on  inverted  pots,  or  another  stage  be  placed  above ;  but 
it  is  not  desirable  that  the  pots  containing  the  plants  should  be  arranged 
on  the  coke. 

A  lean-to  house  facing  north  generally  meets  the  requirements  of 
Odontoglossums,  but  they  will  require  great  care  during  the  winter 
months. 

Oncidium. — Many  beautiful  Oncidiums  succeed  under  the  same 
cultural  conditions  as  recommended  for  Odontoglossums,  such  as  0. 
incurvum,  0.  ornithorhynchum,  and  the  lovely  species  which  belong  to 
the  0.  macranthum  group.  These  are  a  success  at  the  cool  and  most  shady 
end  of  the  house.  The  long  flower-spikes  should  be  trained  as  they  ad- 
vance around  some  sticks.  These  make  a  fine  display  when  in  flower, 
and  last  long  in  perfection.  0.  concolor,  0.  crispum,  0.  Forbesii,  and  the 
lovely  0.  marshallianum,  require  slightly  warmer  conditions  in  winter. 

Peristeria  elata  (The  Dove  Orchid}. — This  is  a  lovely  late  summer- 
flowering  Orchid.  It  needs,  unfortunately,  stove  or  hothouse  conditions. 
Ample  drainage  is  required,  the  potting  compost  consisting  of  fibrous 


ORCHIDS   FOR   BEGINNERS  329 

loam,  brown  peat,  and  a  little  sphagnum  moss.  To  this  should  be  added 
a  liberal  proportion  of  broken  crocks  or  charcoal,  and  press  all  moderately 
firm.  Ample  moisture,  both  at  the  roots  and  in  the  atmosphere,  must 
be  afforded  during  the  active  season  of  growth.  When  growth  is  com- 
plete the  plants  remain  dormant  for  some  months,  and  during  this  time 
only  sufficient  moisture  will  be  required  to  keep  the  bulbs  plump. 

Phaius. — The  P.  grandifolius  section,  and  the  hybrids  that  have 
been  derived  from  the  intercrossing  of  the  various  varieties,  may  be 
placed  in  the  intermediate-house.  They  like  a  close,  humid  atmos- 
phere while  in  active  growth,  and  when  the  growths  have  matured  they 
remain  dormant  for  several  months,  during  which  period  only  sufficient 
water  will  be  required  to  keep  the  plants  plump.  A  compost  of  good 
fibrous  peat,  a  little  loam,  and  a  liberal  sprinkling  of  rough  sand  meets 
their  requirements,  and  the  drainage  must  be  clean  and  ample. 

Sophronitis  grandiflora.— This  is  the  most  charming  of  the 
miniature  cool-house  Orchids.  The  deep  orange-scarlet  flowers  are  pro- 
duced in  the  depth  of  winter  and  through  the  early  spring,  when  they 
make  a  brilliant  display,  lasting  for  some  weeks.  This  Sophronitis  is 
suitable  for  growing  in  pans,  which  may  be  suspended  near  the  roof 
glass.  The  potting  requirements  are  the  same  as  for  the  Mexican 
Lselias. 

Vanda. — The  bulk  of  the  Vandas,  although  closely  allied  to  in- 
termediate-house Orchids,  require  a  warm,  close  atmosphere  during  the 
growing  season.  There  are  a  few  exceptions,  and  one  of  the  best  of 
these  is  the  azure-blue  flowered  variety  V.  ccerulea.  This  species  may  be 
grown  in  the  cool-house  or  in  a  vinery,  the  shades  from  the  vines  in  the 
latter  structure  being  sufficient  protection  from  the  sun.  An  ample 
supply  of  moisture  during  the  active  season  of  growth  is  required,  and  a 
dry  and  cool  condition  during  the  resting  season.  Grow  the  plants  in 
baskets  suspended  from  the  roof,  where  with  the  vines  they  may  be  freely 
syringed.  The  potting  compost  should  be  renewed  each  year,  and 
consist  wholly  of  broken  crocks  and  living  sphagnum  moss. 

Zygopetalum. — Such  species  as  Z.  crinitum  and  Z.  Mackayi  are 
easily  procured,  and  should  be  grown  in  the  intermediate-house.  The 
potting  compost  of  loam,  fibrous  peat,  and  sphagnum  should  be  pressed 
moderately  firm  about  the  roots.  The  plants  should  not  be  disturbed 
more  than  is  absolutely  necessary. 

Insect  Pests,—  Many  insect  pests  infest  Orchids,  but  the  pests  to 
be  most  dreaded  are  thrips.  These  get  into  the  central  and  most  tender 
portions  of  the  plants,  and  if  not  detected  cause  much  mischief  and 
anxiety.  Small  as  they  are,  they  soon  cause  a  damping  spot  such  as 
would  be  made  at  first  through  pricking  with  a  pin.  This  soon  changes 
colour  and  results  in  a  brown  burnt-up  appearance  and  permanent  dis- 
figurement. These  are  what  are  termed  by  gardeners  the  yellow  thrips. 
Black  thrips  are  larger  and  are  more  easily  destroyed.  The  eggs  of  the 
latter  are  deposited  on  the  under  sides  of  the  leaves,  and  may  be  removed 
with  a  soft  sponge.  The  best  preventive  is  to  fumigate  with  XL- All 
Vaporiser  about  once  a  fortnight,  and  to  spray  with  the  liquid  pre- 


330  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

pared  for  the  purpose  by  the  same  firm  of  manufacturers  ;  but  only  spray 
in  warm,  bright  weather,  and  when  the  outside  conditions  are  favourable. 
Scale  is  destroyed  by  carefully  cleaning  with  a  brush  and  sponging  with 
weak,  soft,  soap  water.  Cockroaches  are  most  destructive  to  the  young 
roots  and  tender  flowers.  These  may  be  trapped  by  placing  jars  of 
treacle  and  water  about  the  stages,  or  phosphorus  paste  "  chases."  Wood- 
lice  are  also  destructive  to  the  young  roots,  and  may  be  captured  by 
hollowing  out  potatoes  and  placing  them  on  the  stages  and  on  the  potting 
compost.  Slugs  and  small  shell  snails  are  imported  with  the  moss  in 
the  potting  compost.  Bran  or  brewers'  grain  is  the  most  serviceable 
trap  for  these  pests.  Place  them  about  on  the  stages  or  pots,  a  small 
pinch  being  put  on  pieces  of  glass  or  broken  crocks.  The  pests  will  be 
found  feeding  in  the  evening  and  early  morning,  and  may  then  be  caught 
and  destroyed.  Slugs  are  a  sore  trial  in  the  cool  Orchid  house,  and  will 
require  to  be  carefully  watched,  as  they  inflict  damage  when  the  flower- 
scapes  make  their  appearance. 


THE  BEST  KINDS  OF  ORCHIDS  FOR  BEGINNERS 

A  list  of  Orchids  suitable  for  beginners  and  which  can  be  purchased 
at  a  cheap  rate  is  herewith  appended. 

For  a  cool  house,  that  is  to  say  with  a  winter  temperature  of  45  to  60 
degrees  Fahr.,  and  during  hot  weather  in  summer  the  structure  should  be 
kept  as  cool  as  possible :  Ada  aurantiaca,  Cattleya  citrina,  Cochlioda  Noetz- 
liana,  Cymbidium  Lowianum,  Cypridium  insigne,  C.  villosum,  Den- 
drobium  Jamesianum,  D.  infundibulum,  Epidendrum  vitellinum  majus, 
Lycaste  Skinneri.  Masdevallias :  Harryana,  ignea,  tovarensis,  Veitchii. 
Odontoglossums :  Cervantesii,  cirrhosum,  crispum,  grande,  Hallii,  macu- 
latum,  Pescatorei,  pulchellum,  Rossii  majus,  triumphans.  Oncidiums : 
concolor,  crispum,  Forbesii,  Marshallianum,  ornithorhynchum,  tigrinum, 
varicosum.  Sophronites  grandiflora. 

For  an  intermediate  temperature,  that  is  50  to  65  degrees  Fahr.  in 
winter,  rising  of  course  later  on  :  Cattleyas :  Gaskelliana,  gigas,  Harri- 
sonse,  intermedia,  labiata,  Mendelii,  Mossise,  Schroderae,  Trianse.  Ccelogyne 
cristata.  Cypripediums :  Arthurianum,  callosum,  Charlesworthii,  Lath- 
amianum,  Leeanum  superbum,  nitens,  Spicerianum.  Dendrobiums : 
aureum,  Cambridgeanum,  crassinode,  densiflorum,  Findlayanum,  for- 
mosum  giganteum,  nobile,  thyrsiflorum,  Wardianum.  Lselia  anceps, 
L.  autumnalis.  Oncidiums :  flexuosum,  Papilio  majus,  sarcodes.  Re- 
nanthera  Imschootiana,  Saccolabium  Blumei,  Thunia  Marshalliana. 
Vandas  :  Amesiana,  ccerulea,  Kimballiana.  Zygopetalum  Mackayii. 

For  a  stove  temperature  of  60  to  70  degrees  in  winter :  (Erides 
odoratum,  Angraecum  Sanderianum,  Burlingtonia  fragrans,  Cypripedium 
Lawrencianum.  Dendrobiums  :  bigibbum,  Dearei.  Phselsenopsis  Schro- 
derianum.  Peristeria  elata,  Phsslaenopsis  amabilis,  P.  Rimestadiana, 
Saccolabium  bellinum.  Vandas :  suavis,  teres,  tricolor. 


ORCHIDS   FOR   BEGINNERS  331 


HARDY  ORCHIDS 

Many  of  the  most  beautiful  members  of  the  Orchid  family 
are  quite  hardy.  A  group  of  much  interest  is  that  known  as 
the  Cypripediums.  C.  Calceolus  is  a  rare  native  species,  and 
very  charming  in  colouring.  The  kinds  to  choose  from  are  C. 
spectabile,  the  most  handsome  of  all ;  £7.  pubescens,  C.  Calceolus, 
C.  parviflora,  C.  occidental,  and  C.  acaule.  C.  macranthum  is 
difficult  to  manage.  C.  spectabile  makes  a  dainty  group,  its 
flowers  white,  rose-tinted,  especially  upon  the  labellum,  or 
pouch,  and  the  leafy  stems  grow  to  a  height  of  two  feet. 
Hardy  Orchids  appreciate  shade,  moisture,  and  a  cool  place. 
The  best  soil  is  one  composed  of  rough  peat,  leaf-mould, 
and  equal  parts  of  silver  sand  and  charcoal,  whilst  a  little 
sphagnum  moss  is  helpful  in  imparting  moisture  to  the  pre- 
paration. A  cool  spot,  where  Trilliums  and  moisture-loving 
things  are  happy,  is  suitable  for  the  Orchids. 

The  Orchises  form  another  group  of  much  importance, 
and  they  need  similar  soil  to  that  recommended  for  the  Cypri- 
pediums. O.foliosa  is  very  handsome,  with  its  strong  spikes 
of  rosy-purple  flowers.  A  deep  but  not  heavy  soil  is  requi- 
site for  this,  and  it  may  be  grown  also  with  great  success  in 
pots.  O.  latifolia  is  the  native  Marsh  Orchis,  and  O.  maculata 
is  also  a  familiar  flower  in  many  countries  (superba  is  a  very 
handsome  variety),  conspicuous  for  its  spotted  and  blotched 
leaves.  Then  there  are  the  quaint  Bee  Orchis  (Opkrys 
apifera],  the  Habenarias  and  the  Fly  Orchis  (Ophrysmusciferd), 
which  all  enjoy  moist  soil.  Many  plants  are  found  in  full  sun 
on  chalky  downs,  but  it  is  surprising  how  much  stronger  is 
their  growth  under  less  starved  conditions.  Orchis  hunting 
should  be  discouraged.  There  is  little  harm  in  removing  a 
few  plants  from  some  meadow  where  they  abound,  but  not 
some  rare  species  probably  almost  extinct.  The  time  to  trans- 
plant hardy  Orchids  is  in  the  early  autumn,  not  when  they  are 
in  flower.  When  an  especially  fine  form  is  discovered  mark 
the  spot,  so  that  one  knows  what  plant  to  lift. 


FERNS 


Hardy  Ferns. — Ferns  are  plants  which,  instead  of  blossom- 
ing and  bearing  seed,  only  produce  leaves  or  fronds  upon 
which,  usually  on  the  back,  little  heaps  or  lines  of  brownish 
powder  appear.  This  powder  is  really  tiny  pods  or  capsules, 
and  these  pods  or  capsules  are  filled  with  a  still  finer  powder, 
called  "  spores."  These  spores,  falling  on  a  damp  place, 
grow  into  little  green  scales  like  green  herring  scales,  and 
after  bearing  little  organisms  on  these  under  sides,  far  too 
small  to  be  seen  without  a  strong  magnifying  glass,  tiny  ferns 
grow  from  these  in  due  course.  As  some  Fern  fronds  are 
quite  covered  with  heaps  of  tiny  pods,  and  each  pod  may 
have  fifty  or  sixty  spores  in  it,  a  single  Fern  plant  may  pro- 
duce millions  every  season.  We  may,  therefore,  usually  tell 
a  Fern  from  a  flowering  plant  by  noting  that  there  are  no 
flowers  or  buds  in  the  .first  place  and  then  by  looking  on  the 
backs  of  the  fronds,  when  if  we  find  such  lines  or  dots  we 
may  be  reasonably  sure  it  is  a  Fern. 

Another  sign  of  a  Fern  is  seen  in  the  way  the  leaves 
or  fronds  grow.  They  always  begin  coiled  up  tightly  into 
a  sort  of  knot  at  the  top  of  a  stalk  ;  that  knot  loosens  itself, 
and  then  we  shall  see  that  all  the  side  divisions  are  coiled 
up  too,  so  that  there  is  a  constant  unrolling  and  spreading 
out  until  the  whole  of  the  frond  is  flat  and  complete.  No 
flowering  plant  does  this ;  if  we  look  at  a  plant  of  Cow 
Parsley,  which  is  so  very  like  a  Fern,  we  find  the  leaves  push 
up  from  the  centre  in  a  sharp  spiky  fashion,  and  are  straight 
at  all  stages  of  growth.  Recollecting  these  two  points  of 
difference  it  will  be  easy  at  any  rate  to  say  whether  a  plant 
is  a  Fern  or  a  flowering  one.  Having  got  so  far  we  shall 
find  that  Ferns  are  of  many  sorts,  their  fronds  are  made  in 
very  different  ways,  and  the  dots  and  lines  of  spores  will 
be  found  to  be  always  the  same  upon  the  same  sort  of  Fern. 
It  has  been  found  that,  although  the  shape  and  make  of 
the  frond  may  be  very  different  even  in  the  same  sort  or 
"  species  " — that  is,  finer  or  coarser  cut,  or  of  smaller  or 
larger  size — no  one  species  or  family  will  have  dots  on  one 

332 


FERNS  333 

plant  and  lines  on  another,  and  as  some  species  have  lines 
along  the  frond  edges,  others  along  their  middles,  and  others 
in  slanting  stripes,  while  others  have  round  heaps  or  dots,  some 
with  little  covers  over  them  and  some  without,  it  is  easy  to 
see  that,  knowing  what  sort  of  an  arrangement  a  "  species  " 
has,  we  can  now  go  a  step  further  and  not  only  say 
"  this  is  a  Fern,"  but  also  "this  is  a  Fern  of  such  and  such 
a  family."  The  Ferns  of  the  world  generally  consist  of  a 
large  number  of  families  or  genera  (plural  of  genus  or  kind), 
and  these  families  are  split  up  into  a  far  greater  number  of 
species  or  members  of  the  family,  which,  like  members  of  a 
human  family,  are  very  different  to  each  other.  Each  genus 
or  family  has  its  special  way  of  bearing  the  spores,  and  no 
matter  how  different  its  members  or  species  may  appear  they 
will  all,  as  we  have  said,  carry  their  spores  in  a  similar  way. 
Finally,  there  is  often  great  variety  of  form  among  the  plants 
of  the  same  species,  so  that  Ferns  are  really  classed  under 
three  heads — genera  or  families,  species  or  members  of 
families,  and  varieties  or  forms  of  species.  Thus,  as  there 
are  many  genera,  many  species  of  each  genus,  and  some- 
times many  varieties  of  a  species,  it  is  clear  that  there  must 
be  thousands  of  different  forms  of  Ferns  taking  them  alto- 
gether. This  being  so  we  will  first  deal  only  with  such 
Ferns  as  are  to  be  found  in  Great  Britain,  and  most  of  which 
we  may  come  across  in  our  country  walks,  especially  in  our 
western  counties,  Devon,  Dorset,  Cornwall,  &c.,  but  in  point 
of  fact,  they  exist  all  over  the  country  where  there  is  plenty 
of  shade  and  moisture,  and  people  are  sensible  enough  not 
to  pull  them  up  because  they  are  pretty,  as  is  too  often 
done. 

Curious  Forms  of  Ferns. — In  Great  Britain  we  have  only 
eighteen  genera  and  forty-five  species,  but,  strangely  enough, 
so  many  curious  forms  have  been  found  growing  wild  among 
the  common  ones  that  certainly  two  thousand  varieties  exist, 
and  probably  many  more.  Many  of  these  varieties  are  far 
more  beautiful  than  the  common  ones,  some  bearing  beauti- 
ful tassels  at  all  their  tips,  some  prettily  frilled,  some  con- 
densed or  dwarfed,  and  some  so  finely  cut  as  to  appear  like 
lovely  feathers.  Most  of  us  know  the  pretty  Hart's-tongue, 
with  its  long,  shining,  green,  strap-like  fronds,  sometimes 
growing  big  in  the  hedge,  and  sometimes  starring  an  old 
wall  with  small  plants.  This  one  Fern  has  "  sported,"  as  it 
is  called,  into  several  hundred  different  fashions,  some  like 
little  balls  of  moss,  and  some  like  yard  high  curly  frills,  some 
with  cups  and  pockets  at  the  tips,  some  branched  and  tasselled, 


334  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

and  some  again  with  the  usually  smooth  green  surface  ridged 
and  channelled  and  adorned  in  many  different  ways,  or  with 
the  edges  prettily  cut.  All  the  commonest  kinds  of  Ferns 
have  varied  more  or  less  in  similar  ways  according  to  their 
nature,  so  that  taking  our  British  Ferns  by  themselves,  we 
can  make  beautiful  collections  either  in  our  gardens  or 
indoors,  provided  we  give  a  little  thought  to  their  needs  and 
a  little  care  to  their  culture.  One  great  advantage  possessed 
by  our  home  Ferns  is  that  they  are  (all  but  two  rare  ones, 
the  Maidenhair  Fern  and  Sea  Spleenwort)  perfectly  hardy, 
so  that  we  need  no  hot  water  piping  in  the  winter  as  we  do 
for  tender  Ferns  from  warm  climates. 

There  is,  however,  one  thing  which  they  cannot  stand, 
and  that  is  drought  or  want  of  water  at  the  roots.  If  we 
keep  our  eyes  open  when  among  the  Ferns  in  the  country, 
leaving  the  common  Bracken  out  of  the  question,  we  shall 
always  find  them  in  best  condition  in  shady  moss  lands,  under 
the  shelter  of  the  hedges,  or  in  shady  but  not  too  shady 
woods,  while  if  we  look  a  little  deeper  into  the  matter  we 
shall  note  that  in  very  dark  nooks  the  Ferns  are  drawn  up 
and  weakly.  In  windy  sunny  places  also  we  shall  find  their 
delicate  fronds  browned  by  the  sun,  and  ragged  and  worn 
by  the  rubbing  together  caused  by  the  wind,  and  from  all 
these  facts  we  shall  gather,  if  we  think  a  bit,  that  Ferns  like 
(i)  Plenty  of  daylight  but  little  sunshine  ;  (2)  Constant  moisture 
at  the  roots  ;  and  (3)  Shelter  from  rough  winds. 

Finally,  if  we  examine  the  places  where  they  grow  we 
shall  usually  find  plenty  of  decayed  leaves  making  an  open 
soil,  and  that  on  stiff  clay  few  if  any  Ferns  exist.  We  shall 
also  note  that  chinks  in  rocks  and  the  crevices  in  old  walls 
and  stone  dykes  are  often  full  of  little  Ferns,  and  in  time 
we  shall  see  that  some  species  only  grow  in  such  positions 
and  nowhere  else,  all  of  which  facts  teach  us  something  of 
which  the  more  we  remember  and  apply  to  the  plants  we  pos- 
sess the  greater  will  be  our  success  in  growing  them.  A  good 
general  compost  is  a  mixture  of  good  loam  and  leaf-mould, 
or  peat-mould,  in  equal  parts,  with  say  a  fifth  of  coarse  silver 
sand. 

Ferns  in  the  Garden. — To  grow  Ferns  satisfactorily  in 
a  garden  we  must  recollect  what  nature  has  taught  us,  and 
choose  a  spot  sheltered  from  sun  and  wind  as  much  as 
possible,  but  otherwise  with  plenty  of  daylight ;  and  we  must 
also  indulge  them  with  a  soil  containing  plenty  of  leaf-mould. 
Rocky  slopes  will  have  taught  us  also  that  something  in  the 
rockery  line  will  help,  but  in  making  a  rockery  it  should  never 


FERNS  335 

be  forgotten  that  the  Ferns  are  the  main  ornament  of  it,  and 
hence  that  the  rocks,  whether  real  or  artificial,  should  not 
be  mixed  up  with  shells  and  corals,  or  similar  things  which 
are  entirely  out  of  place.  To  start  a  Fern  rockery,  say  under 
a  north  wall,  the  ground  should  be  well  forked  up,  and  as  a 
foundation  any  broken  brick  rubbish  may  well  be  mixed 
with  the  subsoil  to  drain  it  and  keep  it  sweet ;  if  the  soil 
generally  be  good  garden  soil  and  not  clayey  it  will  do  as  it 
is,  though  an  addition  of  leaf-mould  is  always  advantageous. 
The  bed  should  be  made  nearly  a  foot  higher  than  is  needed, 
as  it  is  sure  to  settle,  and  the  rocks  or  burrs  should  be  well 
bedded  in  irregularly,  leaving  spaces  between  for  planting 
the  Ferns  subsequently.  When  finished  water  well  and  let  it 
settle,  then  plant  the  Ferns  singly  close  under  the  edges  of 
the  rocks,  so  that  their  crowns  are  just  level  with  the  soil 
but  not  covered,  water  them  well  in,  and  the  work  is  done. 
Care  must  be  used  in  planting,  so  that  small  growers  are 
not  hidden  by  larger  ones  when  growth  sets  in.  Finally, 
having  made  a  pretty  rockery  in  a  good  place,  do  not  do 
as  nearly  everybody  does,  forget  all  about  the  beautiful 
varieties  we  have  mentioned  and  crowd  up  your  space  with 
common  Ferns,  which  those  who  know  regard  as  weeds. 

Ferns  in  the  House. — Many  of  our  finest  varieties  will 
form  lovely  specimens  in  well-lighted  north  or  shaded 
windows,  if  grown  in  pots,  kept  properly  watered,  and, 
above  all  things,  always  retained  in  one  position.  Ferns, 
like  all  other  plants,  will  grow  towards  the  light,  and  arrange 
their  fronds  to  catch  as  much  of  it  as  they  can,  the  result 
being  a  very  graceful  one,  yet  innumerable  people,  ladies 
especially,  who  grow  Ferns  indoors  in  windows,  will  keep 
turning  them  round  to  face  the  company,  i.e.  turn  their  backs 
to  the  light.  Now,  as  many  Ferns  are  practically  developing 
new  fronds  all  through  the  growing  season,  and  these  fronds 
as  they  unroll  bend  towards  the  light,  stiffening  as  they 
develop,  a  Fern  thus  twisted  and  turned  about  becomes  in 
itself  twisted  and  out  of  shape,  and  all  its  native  elegance  is 
spoiled.  The  best  plan  is  to  mark  the  pot  itself  and  keep  that 
mark  always  either  to  back  or  front  as  the  case  may  be. 
Much  as  Ferns  like  water,  it  is  not  well  to  let  them  stand  in 
saucers  full  of  it.  A  good  plan  is  to  use  a  large  saucer  and  in- 
sert a  smaller  one  inside  it  in  which  the  pot  stands.  The  large 
saucer  can  then  be  kept  filled  and  will  supply  the  pot,  not  by 
soakage,  but  by  percolation  through  the  smaller  saucer,  a 
much  healthier  way.  The  more  light,  but  not  sun,  the 
sturdier  the  Fern ;  no  Fern  will  thrive  in  a  dark  corner  far 


336  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

away  from  the  window,  and  gas  fumes  are  poison  to  the 
hardiest. 

Ferns  in  Wardian  Cases.— Practically  the  only  satisfac- 
tory Ferns  for  Wardian  cases  are  the  Filmies  ;  all  others  are 
apt  to  get  drawn  or  to  outgrow  the  limited  space.  Our  native 
Filmy  Ferns  (Hymenophyllum  tunbridgense  and  Wilsonii\  and 
the  lovely  Killarney  *Fern(Trichomanes  radicans),  of  which  there 
are  several  beautiful  varieties,  do  well  in  a  perfectly  close  case 
if  pegged  down  on  pieces  of  limestone  or  sandstone  embedded 
in  an  open  peaty  compost.  After  pegging  down,  this  should 
be  covered  with  a  handful  or  so  of  sandy  compost  and  then 
watered  overhead  so  heavily  that  this  mulching  is  washed  well 
into  them,  thus  establishing  them  firmly,  but  not  burying  them. 
This  done,  they  may  be  left  untouched  for  months  together, 
save  a  watering  when  needed.  That  beautiful  New  Zealand 
Fern  (Todea  superba)  makes  a  grand  central  plant  if  the  case 
be  large,  and  it  is  hardy  as  grass.  These  Ferns  must  never  see 
the  sun,  and  drought  is  absolutely  fatal.  They  are  the  children 
of  caves  and  hollows  by,  and  even  under,  waterfalls,  and  shrivel 
at  once  if  exposed  to  dry  air  or  sunshine.  The  need  for  strong 
light  is  consequently  less,  and  hence  they  may  be  grown  in 
duskier  situations  than  Ferns  that  love  the  air.  Judiciously 
aired  and  well  lighted,  the  Wardian  case  may  accommodate  a 
small  rockery  containing  some  of  our  small  growing  Spleen- 
worts,  such  as  Asplenium  trichomanes  and  its  varieties,  which 
constitute  a  pretty  group,  and  will  thrive  provided  the  fronds 
are  not  wetted  and  the  plants  be  carefully  installed  in  rocky 
chinks,  limestone  for  preference,  soil  sandy  leaf-mould.  Pretty, 
temporary  arrangements  may  also  be  made  by  filling  the 
bottom  of  the  case  with  fresh  cocoanut  fibre  and  bedding 
small  thumb  pots  therein  containing  small  growing  specimens 
of  Hart's-tongues,  Spleenworts,  &c.,  which  can  easily  be 
shifted  when  growth  renders  it  necessary.  Good  drainage 
is  essential ;  water-logged  soil  breeds  a  sourness  fatal  to 
everything. 

Perns  in  the  Conservatory. — Here,  of  course,  we  have 
ampler  room  for  our  plants,  but  also  different  conditions. 
Most  conservatories  are  built  for  flowers,  and  hence  placed  to 

f^t  as  much  sunshine  as  possible,  and  in  such  we  find  the 
erns  usually  either  ignominiously  dumped  under  the  staging 
or  stunted  and  out  of  condition  by  uncongenial  baking.  The 
ideal  Fernery  under  glass  never  sees  the  sun  at  all,  a  deep 
ravine,  as  it  were,  with  a  glass  roof.  However,  few  of  us  being 
millionaires,  we  must  do  with  what  we  can  get,  and  hence  if 
we  have  a  conservatory  attached  to  a  house  and  facing  north, 


FERNS  337 

a  large  part  of  it  will  have  sufficient  shade  from  the  house  itself, 
and  the  balance  we  can  shade  by  screen  so  as  to  get  at  any- 
rate  within  measurable  distance  of  our  ideal.  The  prettiest 
way  of  dealing  with  a  fernery  of  this  class  is  to  build  up  rock- 
work  within  it,  broken  up  by  red-tiled  paths  in  any  design 
that  permits  of  easy  access  to  all  the  plants  in  the  house.  This 
is  most  essential ;  plants  out  of  reach  invariably  become  the 
lurking-places  of  vermin  ;  or  sooner  or  later  get  overgrown 
and  neglected.  Experience,  however,  has  taught  us  that 
rockwork  under  glass  is  very  apt  in  time  to  harbour  vermin, 
and  that,  consequently,  substantial  staging  and  pot  culture  are 
preferable.  Shifting  is  easier  when  growth  necessitates  it, 
and  in  many  ways  the  less  attractive  appearance  is  compen- 
sated for  by  greater  convenience.  Slate  shelves,  covered 
an  inch  or  so  deep  with  cinders  or  ashes,  are  better  than 
wooden  ones,  as  the  pots  standing  on  porous  material  are  less 
apt  to  get  sour.  For  hardy  Ferns  no  provision  for  heating  in 
winter  is  necessary ;  they  are  all  the  better  for  a  thorough  rest, 
and  if  excited  into  growth  by  warmth  before  their  time  become 
weakly  in  constitution  and  liable  to  vermin.  In  the  autumn 
those  species  of  Ferns  which  are  deciduous — that  is,  are  not 
evergreen,  but  die  down  for  the  winter — create,  of  course,  con- 
siderable gaps,  but  as  other  species  are  quite  evergreen,  a 
little  rearrangement  rectifies  matters.  It  must  be  borne  in 
mind  that  only  the  fronds  die,  the  plant  is  only  asleep  and 
still  has  need  of  water,  though  to  a  less  extent.  To  allow 
the  soil  in  the  pots  to  become  dust  dry  is  simply  to  kill  the 
plants  within. 

Ferns  in  Frames. — Ferns  can  be  grown  well  in  frames  in 
two  ways,  either  in  pots  on  shelves,  on  a  tiled  bottom,  or 
planted  in  a  leaf-mould  bed  upon  which  the  frame  is  merely 
set.  The  lights  must  either  slope  toward  the  north  or  north- 
east, or  be  shaded  from  too  hot  sun.  A  very  good  plan  is  to 
dig  out  a  sufficiently  large  hole  or  trench,  pile  the  soil  up 
on  the  south  side  so  as  to  make  a  rockery  facing  south,  suit- 
able for  Alpine  plants,  and  then  put  leafy  compost  in  the 
bottom  of  the  excavation.  Plant  the  Ferns  and  put  on  the 
lights  at  a  steepish  slope  towards  the  north  ;  the  earthy  bank 
keeps  the  frame  cool,  and  can  be  retained  in  place  by  roofing 
slates.  In  such  frames  beautiful  collections  of  Polypodies, 
Blechnums,  Spleenworts,  and  Hart's-tongues  can  be  grown 
to  perfection,  but  naturally  the  tall-growing  Male  Ferns,  Lady 
Ferns,  and  Shield  Ferns  require  too  much  head-room.  Here 
again  the  plants  may  be  bedded  in  pots  sunk  in  cocoanut 
fibre,  provided  this  be  changed  from  time  to  time. 

Y 


338  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

Spore-Sowing  and  Propagation. — Certainly  the  most  in- 
teresting way  of  increasing  Ferns  is  by  the  spores,  as  in  this 
way  there  is  always  a  chance  of  getting  quite  new  things. 
About  July,  generally  speaking,  the  spores  are  brown  and  ripe, 
and  if  we  take  a  frond  bearing  spores  and  lay  it  on  a  sheet  of 
glazed  white  paper  for  an  hour  or  two  we  shall  see  them  shed 
in  great  numbers,  as  a  sort  of  brown  stain  on  the  paper.  Fill 
small  pans  or  pots  nearly  full  with  fern  compost,  putting 
some  crocks  in  first  for  drainage,  top  this  with  a  little  crumbled 
loam,  place  a  piece  of  paper  on  top  to  prevent  disturbance,  and 
pour  boiling  water  upon  it  until  it  runs  out  of  the  bottom  hot 
enough  to  scald  the  ringer.  Remove  the  paper  and  let  the  soil 
cool.  Now  scatter  the  spores  extremely  thinly  on  the  top,  put 
a  piece  of  glass  over,  and  place  the  pot  or  pan  in  a  cool,  damp, 
shady  corner  where  no  worms  can  get  into  it.  In  a  week  or 
two  a  green  tint  appears,  and  very  soon  this  will  become  a 
mass  of  small  scales,  like  green  herring  scales.  A  little  longer 
and  from  these  will  arise  tiny  fronds  which,  if  the  sowing  has 
been  thin  enough,  may  be  left  to  develop  into  larger  Ferns, 
which  can  then  be  pricked  out  and  grown  on.  Hart's- 
tongues,  Lady  Ferns,  and  Male  Ferns  are  perhaps  the  easiest 
to  raise,  and,  of  course,  good  varieties  should  be  sown, 
as  there  is  no  advantage  in  raising  common  ones.  Estab- 
lished Ferns  can  be  multiplied  in  several  ways.  Many  form 
crowns  from  which  the  fronds  arise  shuttlecock  fashion  ;  in 
time  these  crowns  split  and  form  twins,  or  other  crowns  ap- 
pear on  the  side.  Each  crown  is  really  an  independent  plant, 
and  can  be  pulled  away,  or  carefully  cut  off,  and  treated  as 
such.  Some  have  creeping  roots,  such  as  the  Polypodies, 
which  run  about  in  all  directions  ;  every  growing  tip  if  cut  off 
with  an  inch  or  so  of  fleshy  roots  and  a  frond  or  two  will  form 
a  plant.  Others,  like  some  of  the  Shield  Ferns,  bear  little 
plants  on  their  fronds,  and  in  that  case  the  frond  should  be 
cut  off,  and  the  part  bearing  the  young  ones  severed  and 
pegged  down  on  good  soil,  when  they  will  root  in,  and  can, 
later  on,  be  parted  and  potted.  Finally,  all  Shuttlecock  Ferns 
grow  better  and  stronger  if  kept  to  one  crown,  and  hence 
when  other  crowns  appear  they  should  be  taken  off. 


BEST   VARIETIES 

Having  now  given  a  general  idea  of  how  Ferns  should  be 
treated,  a  short  list  of  those  worthy  of  attention,  and  such 
as  a  beginner  may  safely  start  with  at  little  cost,  will  be  useful. 


FERNS  339 

There  are  a  great  number  of  comparatively  rare  and  beautiful 
varieties  in  addition,  which  rank,  however,  as  prizes  to  which 
the  more  advanced  students  may  aspire,  space  precluding 
more  than  a  selection  of  current  "gems"  in  the  trade. 

The  Lady  Fern  (Athyrium  filix  fcemina). — The  best  crested  or 
tasselled  varieties  are  A.  f.  f.  Victoria,  acrocladon,  cristatum,  Frizellice 
cristatum  (applebyanum),  curium  cristatum,  superbum  cristatum,  and 
percristatum,  corymbiferum,  James ;  depauperatum,  orbiculatum,  gem- 
matum,  and  multifurcatum.  The  best  plumose  or  extra  feathery  ones  : 
A.f.f.  pi.  Axminster,  Horsfall,  divaricatum,  plumosum  elegans,  Parsons  ; 
and  any  of  Mr.  Druery's  strain  of  "  superbum/'  which  are  the  finest  of 
all.  Other  "  gems  "  of  different  sections  are  the  dwarf  congested  forms. 

The  Buckler  Ferns  (Lastreas). — The  best  Male  Ferns  (L.  filix-mas 
and  L.  pseudo-mas)  are  L.  p.  m.  cristata  (The  King  of  the  Male  Ferns) 
and  its  narrow  form  L.  p.  m.  c.  angustata,  L.  p.  m.  polydactyla,  L.  f.  m. 
grandiceps,  crispa  gracilis  (dwarf),  crispa  cristata  angustata  (dwarf), 
ramossissima,  ramulosissima  grandiceps  Lowi,  revolvens,  and  Ballandice. 

The  Mountain  Buckler  Fern  (L.  montana)  must  be  grown  in  moist 
loam.  It  has  sported  freely ;  the  best  are  L.  m.  cristata,  Barnes  ;  and 
grandiceps,  cristata  gracile}  Druery ;  plumosa,  Barnesii,  ramo-coronans , 
Barnes ;  and  congesta. 

The  Broad  Buckler  Fern  (L.  dilatata)  has  given  us  L.  d.  cristata, 
Oscroft ;  grandiceps ,  Barnes  ;  lepidota  and  lepidota  cristata,  and  others. 

The  Hay-scented  Fern  (L.  amula),  a  pretty  crested  form,  and  L.  ce. 
cristata. 

The  Shield  Ferns,  or  Polystichums,  being  evergreen,  are  perhaps 
the  most  serviceable  of  all.  The  beautiful  forms  of  these  are  innumer- 
able. We  can  only  indicate  a  few. 

The  Holly  Fern  (P.  Lonchitis). — P.  L.  cristata  is  very  pretty. 
This  can  only  be  grown  outside  in  a  moist  situation,  facing  north,  and 
under  the  shelter  of  a  big  piece  of  rock  or  burr  •  so  treated  it  does  well, 
but  rarely  in  the  open.  The  type  is  pretty,  and  should  be  tried  first. 

The  Hard  Shield  Fern  (P.  aculeatum). — A  capital  Fern  in  any  of 
its  forms.  There  are  several  grandiceps,  all  good,  but  the  prince  of  the 
family  is  P.  ac.  pulcherrimum,  which  under  glass  has  no  equal  in  its 
own  particular  line,  a  perfectly  graceful  shuttlecock,  four  feet  high  and 
erect,  with  exquisite  finish. 

The  Soft  Shield  Fern  (P.  angulare).— The  best  are  the  plumosa  and 
decompositum  sections  ;  P.  a.  pi.  densum,  laxum,  robustum ;  P.  a.  pi., 
Wollaston  ;  cristatum,  Wollaston  ;  grandiceps  (several,  all  good),  tripin- 
natum  (several),  acutilobum,  revolvens,  and  congestum,  represent  charming 
types  of  which  scores  of  sub-types  exist. 

The  Hart's-tongue  (Scolopendrium  vulgare).—As  already  stated,  the 
forms  of  this  number  hundreds.  We  can  only  indicate  all  the  crispums 
as  fine  frilled  varieties,  the  more  beautiful  being  the  fimbriated  section 
of  Stansfield  and  Cropper.  Tasselled  forms  vary  from  a  few  finger-like 


340  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

extensions  on  the  frond  tip  to  division  into  balls  of  moss,  such  as  Kelway's 
densum.  Some  of  the  fimbriate  crispums  are  also  beautifully  tasselled. 

The  Polypodies.— The  Oak  Fern  (P.  Dryopteris),  the  Beech  Fern 
(P.  Phegopteris),  and  the  Limestone  Polypody  (P.  calcareum),  are  three 
pretty  little  Ferns,  which  should  be  grown  in  pans  with  plenty  of  leaf- 
mould  and  a  little  lime  for  the  last.  There  are  no  good  varieties,  but 
they  are  too  pretty  in  make  and  colour  to  ignore.  In  the  open  they 
want  a  lot  of  shelter ;  best  grown  under  glass — deciduous.  The  Com- 
mon Polypody  (P.  vulgare)  is  a  very  different  plant ;  it  is  quite  ever- 
green, and  will  do  well  anywhere  on  loose  leafy  or  peaty  compost.  It 
has  a  thick,  fleshy  running  root-stock  or  rhizome,  and  this  must  be 
planted  near  or  even  on  the  surface.  A  good  plan  is  to  grow  it  in  largish 
shallow  pans,  and  to  stand  these  on  (not  in)  a  redware  saucer  which  is 
kept  full  of  water.  This  Fern  is  quite  evergreen,  and  has  varied  much, 
so  that  a  pretty  collection  can  be  made  of  its  forms.  The  best  are  P.  v. 
cambricum  or  the  Welsh  Polypody,  of  which  the  finest  types  are  Prestonii, 
Hadwinii,  and  Barrowii.  These  are  true  plumosums  and  lovely. 

The  Hard  Fern  (Blechnum  Spicant)  is  a  pretty  evergreen  Fern, 
with  two  sorts  of  fronds — lax  leafy  ones  which  are  barren,  and  tall,  stiff- 
growing,  stalky  ones  which  bear  the  spores.  The  Fern  must  be  watered 
with  rain  or  soft  water,  as  lime  kills  it. 

Of  the  Spleenworts  only  one  species  has  varied  to  any  extent,  viz. 
the  Maidenhair  Spleenwort  (Asplenium  Trichomanes).  This,  as  we  have 
said,  may  be  grown  in  a  Wardian  case.  It  has  sported  into  fine  charm- 
ing forms  ;  A.  T.  incisum  is  the  plumose  form  and  Clapham's  is  the  best. 
The  black  Maidenhair  Spleenwort  (A.  Adiantum-nigrum)  has  yielded 
one  crested  form,  A.  Ad.  n.  grandiceps,  very  pretty  but  rather  difficult 
to  grow. 

The  Royal  Fern  (Osmunda  regalis)  is  a  grand  Fern  for  a  moist 
corner  or  a  large  pot.  As  it  is  a  bog  Fern  it  must  be  kept  well  watered, 
and  hence  does  well  by  a  pond  side.  It  bears  all  its  spores  on  the  frond 
tips  in  somewhat  flower-like  bunches,  hence  its  name  of  flowering  Fern. 
The  variety  cristata  is  beautifully  tasselled. 

Finally,  a  spare  corner  or  corners  in  many  a  garden  might  well  be 
tenanted  by  the  Bracken  (Pteris  aqmlind)^  not  in  its  common  form,  but 
in  several  splendidly  crested  and  otherwise  varied  types.  It  is  one  of 
the  easiest  Ferns  to  raise  from  spores,  and  one  of  the  hardest  to  shift 
or  to  establish  after  shifting.  Spores  sown  one  year  in  pans  make  pretty 
plants  the  next,  and  if  turned  out  into  the  garden  in  the  early  autumn 
will  come  up  freely  in  the  following  spring,  and  soon  make  handsome 
clumps,  while,  curiously  enough,  if  kept  under  glass  and  frozen,  they  are 
almost  sure  to  be  killed. 


GREENHOUSE  FERNS 

The  beauty  of  the  plant  house  and  home  is  derived  in  a 
large   measure  from   the  cool-coloured  and  graceful  fronds 


FERNS  341 

of  Ferns  too  tender  to  live  in  the  open  garden.  Flowers  are 
absent,  but  the  charming  tints  of  the  young  fronds  and  the 
graceful  growth  of  the  plants  are  features  restful  to  the  eye. 
Ferns  may  be  grown  in  many  ways,  and  the  majority 
will  develop  rapidly  in  heat.  This  fact  is  taken  advantage 
of  by  many  cultivators  who  supply  Covent  Garden  market, 
whence  the  plants  drift  to  the  barrows  of  the  street 
hawkers.  The  fact  that  these  plants,  after  a  short  period 
in  a  greenhouse  or  living  room,  quickly  lose  their  fresh- 
ness is  in  many  cases  accepted  as  proof  of  their  delicate 
constitution,  whereas  the  fault  is  in  the  way  they  have  been 
treated.  This  also  applies  to  many  plants  other  than  Ferns, 
the  object  of  the  market  grower  being  to  get  a  saleable 
plant  in  as  short  a  time  as  possible.  With  regard  to  newly- 
purchased  Ferns,  when  the  conditions  under  which  they 
have  been  growing  are  unknown,  it  is  better  to  assume  that 
they  have  been  treated  as  above  described,  and  harden  them 
off  when  first  obtained.  Thus  they  should  be  kept  away 
from  draughts  and  bright  sunshine  :  indeed,  Ferns  always 
require  shading  from  the  full  rays  of  the  sun.  The  above 
directions  are  given  with  regard  to  Ferns  purchased  from 
dealers,  but  to  the  amateur  with  a  greenhouse  there  is  another 
way  of  obtaining  them — and  that  is,  given  a  few  to  start  with, 
they  may  be  readily  propagated  from.  There  are  three  ways 
of  increasing  Ferns,  firstly  by  spores,  secondly  by  division, 
and  thirdly  some  kinds  produce  small  plants  on  the  tips  of 
the  fronds,  and  it  is  only  necessary  to  peg  them  down  on  a 
pot  or  pan  of  soil,  when,  if  kept  watered,  these  tiny  plants  will 
form  roots  of  their  own,  and  in  time  may  be  potted  singly 
into  small  pots. 

Propagation  by  Spores — The  spores,  which  in  Ferns  are 
equivalent  to  the  seeds  of  flowering  plants,  are  usually  arranged 
on  the  under  sides  of  the  fronds  in  dots  or  lines ;  but  there 
are  exceptions  to  this,  as  in  a  few  cases  the  spore-bearing 
frond  is  quite  distinct  from  the  others.  Myriads  of  spores 
are  contained  on  a  single  frond.  They  are  covered  with  what 
is  known  as  spore  cases — that  is,  enclosed  within  a  kind  of 
scale.  When  ripe  these  cases  burst,  and  the  contents  are 
then  scattered.  The  spores  are  so\ght  that  they  float  hither 
and  thither  till  they  finally  rest,  and  if  the  spot  is  favourable 
to  their  development  they  commence  to  grow.  In  gathering 
spores  for  sowing  care  should  be  taken  to  see  that  the  spore 
cases  are  not  already  opened,  and  the  spores  themselves  dis- 
charged, which  is  apt  to  happen  unless  special  attention  is 
directed  to  the  matter.  To  secure  the  spores  cut  off  the 


342  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

frond  or  fronds  just  as  a  few  of  the  earliest  spore  cases 
commence  to  burst  and  discharge  their  contents.  Then  fold 
them  up  in  a  sheet  of  white  paper  and  place  in  a  dry  spot. 
In  a  few  days  the  spores  will  be  found  loose  in  the  paper, 
like  a  pinch  of  the  finest  dust.  For  sowing  the  spores  five- 
inch  pots  are  suitable.  They  must  be  prepared  by  putting 
two  inches  of  broken  crocks  in  the  bottom,  and  filled  to 
within  a  inch  of  the  rim  with  a  mixture  of  loam,  peat,  and 
sand  passed  through  a  sieve  with  a  quarter  of  an  inch  mesh, 
and  pressed  down  moderately  firm  and  smooth.  As  a  moss- 
like  growth  frequently  makes  its  appearance  on  the  surface 
of  the  soil  and  chokes  the  spores  as  they  commence  to  grow, 
if  possible  bake  the  soil  before  it  is  used,  or  saturate  it 
with  boiling  water,  and  thus  destroy  all  germs  of  vegetable 
life.  Having  thus  prepared  the  pots  water  them  thoroughly 
through  a  fine  rose,  and  while  the  surface  is  still  wet 
sprinkle  on  the  spores  as  thinly  as  possible.  Then  cover 
with  a  pane  of  glass,  and  stand  each  pot  in  a  shallow 
pan  of  water,  which  will  serve  to  keep  the  soil  moist 
without  overhead  watering,  as,  however  carefully  done,  this 
is  apt  to  wash  the  spores  away.  In  time  (a  few  weeks  in 
many  cases)  a  dense  moss-lfke  growth  will  overspread  the 
soil.  This  usually  consists  of  growing  spores  packed  closely 
together,  too  closely  in  fact  to  allow  of  their  development. 
They  must  then  be  pricked  off,  and  this  is  carried  out  by 
preparing  some  pots  as  for  sowing  the  spores,  except  that  the 
soil  must  be  very  lightly  pressed  down.  Then  with  a  pointed 
stick  pick  up  a  tiny  tuft  of  the  growing  spores,  place  it  on  the 
surface  of  the  soil,  and  press  into  position  gently  with  the 
finger.  Water  through  a  fine  rose,  keep  in  a  humid  atmosphere, 
and  give  careful  attention  to  shading,  &c.;  they  will  continue 
to  grow,  and  in  time  push  up  fronds.  When  large  enough  they 
must  be  potted  off  singly  into  small  pots.  February  and 
March  are  the  best  months  for  sowing  the  spores,  as  there  is 
a  long  growing  season  before  winter.  Although  the  raising 
of  Fern  spores  is  extremely  interesting,  and  large  quantities 
are  obtained  in  this  way  in  nurseries,  it  is  a  method  that  can 
scarcely  be  recommended  to  quite  a  beginner,  as  a  consider- 
able amount  of  care  and  knowledge  is  necessary  to  bring  it  to 
a  successful  issue.  Still,  in  a  Fern  house  where  the  atmosphere 
is  always  kept  moist,  naturally  sown  plants  will  spring  up  in 
all  directions,  the  Maidenhair  and  some  kinds  of  Pteris  being 
as  a  rule  conspicuous. 

Propagation  by  Division. — The  second  method  of  propagat- 
ing Ferns  is  by  division,  and  is  best  carried  out  in  the  spring. 


FERNS  343 

All  Ferns  that  produce  several  crowns  can  be  propagated  in 
this  way,  and,  as  a  rule,  division  should  be  practised  with  a 
large  knife,  as  any  attempt  to  disentangle  a  crowded  mass  of 
roots  is  likely  to  result  in  greater  injury  than  a  clean  cut.  After 
potting  keep  the  divided  plants  in  a  closer  atmosphere,  if 
possible,  and  additionally  shade  until  the  young  roots  are 
active  in  the  new  soil. 

Soil. — With  regard  to  the  soil  most  suitable  for  Ferns  it 
was  at  one  time  considered  absolutely  necessary  that  the 
larger  portion  of  it  must  be  peat,  but  these  ideas  have  been 
considerably  modified  of  late  years,  and  some  cultivators  grow 
many  Ferns  in  almost  pure  loam.  Still,  with  few  exceptions, 
the  most  suitable  compost  is  two-parts  loam  to  one-part 
each  of  leaf-mould  and  peat,  and  about  half  a  part  of  sand. 
When  there  is  no  peat  its  place  may  be  taken  by  an  addi- 
tional part  of  leaf-mould,  and  vice  versa.  Ferns  as  a  rule 
delight  in  plenty  of  water  when  growing  freely,  but  it  is 
important  to  drain  the  soil  well,  as  stagnant  moisture  is  quickly 
fatal  not  only  to  Ferns  but  to  all  classes  of  plants.  Among 
the  numerous  plants  used  for  the  embellishment  of  the  dwell- 
ing-house this  excess  of  moisture  is  more  fatal  than  anything 
else.  Thus  when  the  plants  are  placed  in  vases  of  different 
kinds  which  have  no  provision  to  allow  of  the  escape  of 
surplus  water,  they  should  be  removed  to  be  watered,  and 
allowed  to  drain  for  a  few  minutes  before  returning  them 
to  their  place. 

The  highly  ornamental  and  at  the  same  time  varied  features 
of  the  different  Ferns  render  them  extremely  useful  in  many 
ways.  In  the  first  place  a  certain  number  are  absolutely  indis- 
pensable for  the  embellishment  of  the  greenhouse  or  conser- 
vatory. Apart  from  their  own  intrinsic  beauty  they  serve 
admirably  as  a  foil  to  the  different  flowering  plants,  whose 
brightness  is  accentuated  by  association  with  the  refreshing 
green  of  the  different  Ferns. 

Besides  this  a  house  devoted  entirely  to  Ferns  forms  a 
feature  of  interest  throughout  the  year ;  the  different  types  of 
fronds,  their  ever-varying  changes  of  colour  during  the 
growing  season,  with  the  exquisite  beauty  of  some  of  the 
more  finely  divided  kinds,  all  combine  to  form  a  source  of 
great  attraction. 

Added  to  this,  some  of  them  from  their  pendulous  nature 
are  unsurpassed  for  growing  in  suspended  baskets,  while 
many  of  them  may  be  readily  cultivated  in  the  dwelling- 
house. 

Out  of  the  vast  number  of  varieties  in  cultivation  a  rigid 


344 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


selection  is  necessary,  the  following  being  among  the  very  best 
for  greenhouse  decoration  : 


Adiantum  sethiopicum 
,,        capillus-veneris 
„         cuneatum 
},         cuneatum  grand  iceps 
„         decorum 
„         formosum 
)}        fulvum 
„         gracillimum 
„         hispidulum 
„         Pacottii 
Aspidium  atratum 
Asplenium  biforme 
„         bulbiferum 
„         Colensoi 
„         nidus 
Blechnum  brasiliense 
„         occidentale 
Cyrtomium  falcatum 

„  „       Fensomei 

Davallia  brasiliensis 
„        bullata 
„        canariense 
,,        Lawsoniana 
„        Mariesii 
„       tenuifolia 
„        Tyermannii 
Doodia  asperia 

„       limulata 
Doryopteris  palmata 
Lastrea  aristata  variegata 
„       atrata 
„       lepida 
„       patens 

„       Richardsii  multifida 
„       varia 
Lomaria  ciliata 
Lygodium  japonicum 

„        scandens 
Microlepia  hirsta  cristata 
Nephrodium  molle 
Nephrolepis  Amerpohlii 

„          cordifolia  compacta 
„          elegantissima 


Nephrolepis  exaltata 

„  todeoides 
Onychium  japonicum 
Osmunda  japonica  corymbifera 

„        palustris 
Pellsea  hastata 

„      rotundifolia 
Platycerium  alcicorne 
Polypodium  aurem 
„  glaucum 

„  Mayii 

„  Schneiderii 

„  sporodcarpum 

Polystichum  capense 
„  setosum 
„  triangulum 

„  Tsus-Simense 

Pteris  arguta 
„      argyraea 
„      Childsii 
„     cretica 

„          „      albo-lineata 
„          „      major 
„      Mayii 
„     internata 
„     leptophylla 
„     longifolia 
„     scaberula 
„     serrulata 
„          })       Chiswickense 
„          „       cristata 
„          „       gracilis 
))          )}       major 
straminea 


Summersii 
tremula 


Smithii 


„      umbrosa 
„      Wimsettii 

grandiceps 
Todea  africana 
Woodwardia  orientalis 
„  radicans 


FERNS  345 

For  Hanging  Baskets — 

Adiantum  cuneatum  grandiceps          Woodwardia  exaltata 

„        dolabriforme  „  „       furcans 

Anemia  rotundifolia  „  „       grandiceps 

Asplenium  caudatum  „          Piersonii 

„         flaccidum  „          Whitmannii 

Davallia  bullata  Platycerium  alcicorne 

„       dissecta  Polypodium  glaucum 
„       Lawsoniana  „         Mayii 

„       Mariesii  „          phymatodes  cristatum 

„       rufa  Woodwardia  orientalis 
„       tenuifolia  Veitchii  „  radicans 

Microlepia  hirta  cristata  „  „         cristata 

Nephrolepis  elegantissima 

Selaginellas. — These  are  for  the  most  part  pretty  moss- 
like  plants,  nearly  related  to  the  Ferns,  and  succeeding  under 
the  same  cultural  conditions.  One  species,  Selaginella 
Kraussiana,  often  known  as  5.  denticulatay  is  frequently  used 
as  an  edging,  for  the  clothing  of  bare  ground  underneath 
stages,  or  for  similar  purposes.  It  is  hardy  in  many  parts 
of  the  country.  The  best  greenhouse  kinds  are  : 

Selaginella  amsena,  S.  elegans,  S.  Emiliana,  S.  erythropus,  S.  japonica, 
S.  Kraussiana,  S.  K.  aurea,  S.  K.  variegata,  S.  Martensii,  S.  serpens, 
S.  variabilis,  S.  Wildenovii. 

Filmy  Ferns. — Until  the  invention  of  the  Wardian  case  the 
culture  of  the  Filmy  Ferns  was  a  failure,  but  given  a  fair 
start  and  the  observance  of  a  little  common  sense,  there 
is  no  class  of  Ferns  which  so  well  repays  a  minimum  of 
trouble  with  a  maximum  of  pleasure.  The  Filmy  Ferns, 
so  called  from  the  delicate  and  diaphanous  nature  of  their 
fronds,  rank  decidedly  among  the  most  beautiful  plants 
extant.  In  their  native  haunts,  which  are  mainly  situated 
in  hilly  regions,  they  clothe  the  rocks,  leafy  banks,  and  the 
trunks  of  trees  and  tree  ferns  with  dense  masses  of  trans- 
lucent frondage,  ranging  from  minute  moss-like  growths 
up  to  the  stately  fronds  of  the  Todeas,  and  varying  in 
form  from  the  exquisitely  slender  hair-like  types  of  Tricho- 
inanes  trichoideum  to  the  broad,  kidney-shaped,  almost 
leathery  foliage  of  T.  reniforme  even  in  one  and  the  same 
genus.  In  the  vast  majority  of  cases  they  spread  by  means 
of  thin,  ramifying  rhizomes,  which  cling  to  rock  and  other 
congenial  sites  and  form  mat-like  cushions  of  glistening 
emerald  verdure.  Wherever  they  are  found,  the  condi- 


346  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

tions  are  such  that  the  atmosphere   is  constantly  saturated 
with   moisture,   and   it   will    also    be    seen    that    perpetual 
shade  is  afforded  by  the  loftier  vegetation  amid  which  they 
thrive.      Transport     them    even    for    a    few    minutes    into 
dry   air,    and   they  quickly   shrivel.      From    the    nature    of 
their  habitats,  therefore,  it  is  easy  to  outline   their   cultural 
requirements,    both   as   regards   soil    and   aerial   conditions, 
and  we  can  at  once  perceive  that  a  close  Wardian  case  or 
even  a  bell-glass  in  a  cool,  shady  position,  or,  better  still,  a 
sunken  brick-lined  and  glass-covered  pit  in  a  shady  corner  of 
the  garden,  secure  the  main  essentials.     The  soil,  as  we  have 
seen,  consists  entirely  of  the  debris  of  vegetation  mixed  with 
more  or  less  broken  rocks  ;  or  there  may  be  no  soil  at  all,  as  in 
the  case  of  the  fern-clad  tree  trunks.     In  practice,  good  brown 
lumpy  peat  affords  precisely  the  requisite  foothold  ;  hence, 
taking  a  far-sized  Wardian  case,  we  should  secure  the  proper 
drainage — for  the  Filmies  are  not  Bog  Ferns — by  a  careful  and 
liberal  supply  of  broken  pots  and  broken  bricks,  nearly  filling 
the  receptacle  with  these.     After  this    pile  up  the  lumpiest 
peat  possible,  mingling  it  liberally  with  coarse  silver  sand  and 
lumps  of  porous  stone,  and,  finally,  top  the  compost  with 
pieces  of  rock.     This  done,  take  the  clumps  of  Filmies  and 
peg  them  securely  down  over  the  rocks  in  the  desired  positions, 
leaving  room  between  the  species  for  subsequent  spreading. 
Then  prepare  some  finer  peaty  compost  mixed  liberally  with 
coarse  silver  sand,  and  sift  this  over  the  clumps  until  they  are 
fairly  buried,  finally  giving  such  a  drastic  drenching  from  jug 
or  water-can  as  will  wash  this  compost  entirely  in  and  leave 
the  Ferns  on  the  surface  again.     They  are  now  fairly  installed, 
and  all  we  have  to  do  is  to  replace  the  glass,  close  all  openings 
as  tightly  as  possible,  and   leave  them  severely  alone.      All 
direct  sunshine  must  be  excluded,  hence  a  position  close  to  a 
north  window  suits  admirably.    As  a  rule,  after  such  an  instal- 
lation, they  may  be  left  entirely  untouched  for  several  weeks, 
but  no  harm  will  be  done  by  an  occasional  gentle  spraying  of 
pure  rain  water  over  the  fronds.     After  a  time  it  will  be  seen 
that  new  fronds  are  pushing  up  here  and  there,  and  eventually 
the  fresh  growth  will  entirely  rectify  the  effects  of  disturbance, 
and  all  the  loveliness  of  the  plants  will  be  gradually  developed. 
One  great  charm  about  the  Filmy  Ferns  is  their  persistent 
verdure,  the  fronds  in  some  cases  remaining  green  and  fresh 
through  several  seasons  ;  hence  there  is  no  unsightly  seasonal 
gap  such  as  occurs  with  their  drier  kindred.     Make  the  first 
attempt  with  our  hardy  British  species,  viz.,  the  dwarf-grow- 
ing Hymenophyllum   unilaterale   and   H.    tunbridgense,   which 


FERNS  347 

form  dense  mats  of  delicate  mossy  growth  a  few  inches  high 
at  the  utmost,  and  the  delightful  Bristle  or  Killarney  Fern 
(Trichomanes  radicans\  which  has  a  stouter  rhizome  and  fronds 
quite  large  enough  to  furnish  any  ordinary  Wardian  case.  Of 
this  latter  there  are  several  beautiful  varieties,  especially  T.  r. 
dilatatum,  a  grand  leafy  form,  with  fronds  a  foot  high,  and 
T.  r.  Andreivsii  densutn,  dissectum,  and  cambricum,  all  varied 
in  cutting  and  make.  It  is  beyond  question  that  no  Ferns 
are  so  well  adapted  as  the  Filmies  for  case  culture  in  rooms ; 
all  other  species,  however  pretty  they  appear  when  first  in- 
stalled, are  apt  to  get  drawn  and  out  of  health  before  long 
under  such  conditions,  while  a  batch  of  Filmies,  once  fairly 
started,  thrives  well,  and  if  properly  selected  will  never  be 
too  large  for  the  available  space.  For  a  large  case,  a  central 
plant  of  that  exquisite  yet  hardy  New  Zealander,  Todea  superba^ 
may  well  be  selected,  but  as  a  well-grown  plant  of  this  may 
cover  a  circle  of  four  feet  in  diameter,  it  is  clear  that  in  time  it 
will  overgrow  its  room.  Undoubtedly  the  easiest  way  to  grow 
Filmies  is  to  sink  a  pit  in  a  shady  garden  nook  (i.e.  toplights 
but  no  sun),  line  it  with  bricks,  red  for  preference,  make  a  bed 
as  above  described,  and  instal  the  Ferns,  Todeas,  and  others 
therein,  covering  the  whole  with  a  well-fitting  light.  In  such 
a  pit  the  writer  has  hadTodeas,Trichomanes,and  Hymenophyl- 
lums  thriving  marvellously,  though  shamefully  neglected  and 
watered  once  a  month  at  the  oftenest,  the  sunken  bed  supply- 
ing itself  from  the  subsoil  and  the  non-removal  of  the  tight- 
fitting  light  retaining  the  air  in  the  necessary  moist  condition. 
Many  of  the  choicest  exotic  Filmies  are  hardy,  or  so  nearly  so 
that  they  will  thrive  with  only  sufficient  protection  to  keep  out 
the  frost.  Those  above  named  British  and  New  Zealand  are 
absolutely  frost-proof,  and  make  the  bulk  of  their  growth  in  the 
coolest  times  of  the  year,  a  clear  indication  that  high  tempera- 
ture is  a  mistake,  and  this  indeed  is  often  the  cause  of  failure 
where  an  exotic  and  maybe  tropical  origin  misleads  the  culti- 
vator, who  ignores  the  important  facts  that  high  elevation 
means  coolness  even  in  the  torrid  zone. 


THE  COLD  GREENHOUSE,  AND  THE 
FLOWERS  GROWN  IN  IT 


"  K.  L.  D.,"  a  clever  amateur  gardener,  sends  the  following 
practical  and  interesting  notes  about  the  cold  greenhouse  : 

There  are  many  phases  of  garden  work  and  countless 
varieties  of  plant-houses,  but  amongst  them  all  it  is  a  matter 
of  regret  that  more  use  is  not  made  of  the  unheated  green- 
house. As  an  early  pioneer  of  cold-house  gardening,  let  me 
tell  the  story  of  my  first  experiences.  It  takes  a  long  look 
back  through  the  vista  of  years  to  recall  the  old  tumble-down 
country  rectory  which  had  to  be  rebuilt,  and  the  hope  and 
despair  of  having  a  greenhouse  at  all,  which  trembled  in  turns 
in  the  fateful  balance  of  pros  and  cons,  and  how,  in  the  end, 
a  fairly  good  lean-to  vinery  was  built  of  the  window-sashes 
of  the  old  house.  There,  in  after  years,  many  a  good  bunch 
of  black  Hamburgh  Grapes  was  cut,  and  many  a  fine  plant 
grown,  though  it  is  the  fashion  nowadays  to  say — and  with 
a  good  deal  of  truth — that  grapes  and  flowers  cannot  be 
grown  together.  There  was  nothing  better,  by  way  of 
heating  power  in  this  vinery  of  about  twenty-five  feet  in 
length,  than  a  slow-combustion  stove — far  from  an  ideal 
mode  of  gaining  a  genial  plant-growing  atmosphere.  But 
it  was  not  the  vinery  that  made  me  a  cold-house  gardener. 
As  luck  would  have  it,  a  mistake  in  building  the  new  house 
made  it  needful,  either  to  block  up  the  side  windows  of  both 
drawing-room  and  dining-room  which  opened  upon  the  lawn, 
or  to  build  some  kind  of  glass  porch  or  vestibule  to  enclose 
them  and  keep  out  an  unbearable  draught.  The  result  was  a 
charming  little  conservatory,  but  one  in  which  a  boiler  and 
pipes,  owing  to  its  position,  were  quite  out  of  the  question. 
Moreover,  the  village  was  situated  on  very  high  ground,  nine 
miles  from  a  railway  station,  and  coal  cost  as  much  or  more 
than  it  does  now  even  in  these  days  of  high  prices.  The 
problem  was  how  to  keep  this  conservatory  bright  with 
flowers  at  all  times  of  the  year,  and  rather  a  stiff  problem 
it  was  to  solve.  I  was  but  a  novice  in  garden  work  in  those 

348 


THE   COLD   GREENHOUSE  349 

days,  but  I  happened  to  have  two  qualifications  which  stood 
me  in  good  stead,  a  strong  love  of  flowers  and  a  fairly  good 
knowledge  of  hardy  perennial  plants.  So  I  made  up  my 
mind  to  face  the  difficulty  and  to  overcome  it  with  my  own 
hands,  for  the  garden  was  large  and  there  was  quite  enough 
for  the  gardener  to  do.  He  was  a  clever,  faithful  and  handy 
man,  and  I  had  his  good  help  in  many  a  contrivance  through 
a  long  series  of  years,  but  potting  and  watering,  seed-raising, 
and  slip-taking,  and  all  the  ordinary  work  of  a  greenhouse 
I  learnt  to  do  by  practical  experience  in  happy  hours  of 
leisure.  Space  will  not  allow  me  to  tell  of  the  failures  and 
difficulties  of  the  first  year  or  two — perhaps  it  is  as  well 
that  they  be  buried  in  oblivion — but  success  came  at  last, 
and  folk  with  big  conservatories  were  sometimes  rather 
piqued  to  find  in  the  modest  little  rectory  greenhouse  new 
and  rare  plants  which  were  strangers  to  their  own.  A  few 
hints,  therefore,  from  an  "  old  hand "  may  be  of  use  to 
beginners.  First  of  all, 

One  must  not  attempt  too  much.  Failure  generally  comes 
from  trying  to  grow,  in  an  unheated  house,  plants  which 
require  a  higher  temperature  than  can  be  given.  One  must 
not  expect,  for  instance,  to  be  able  to  grow  Pelargoniums 
of  any  sort  unless  the  thermometer  can  be  kept  well  above 
freezing-point  at  all  times.  It  must  always  be  borne  in 
mind  that  the  mere  shelter  of  glass,  while  it  protects  from 
heavy  rains  and  wind,  will  not  keep  out  hard  frost,  therefore 
hardy  plants  only  are  suitable  for  a  cold  greenhouse.  Even 
the  hardiest  will  look  unhappy  out  of  doors  in  a  severe  spell 
of  frost  or  a  tearing  wind.  Have  we  not  all  noticed  the 
drooping,  downcast  look  of  common  Rhododendrons  when 
the  ground  is  ice-bound  and  a  chill  wind  rustles  through  the 
stiff-frozen  leaves  ?  Yet  no  sooner  does  a  thaw  warm  the 
air  and  loosen  the  frost-bands  than  they  lift  up  their  heads 
as  if  nothing  had  disturbed  them.  It  is  different  with  the 
fine  early-flowering  sorts,  whose  foliage  is  safe  enough,  but 
whose  crimson  and  pink  blossoms  are  too  fragile  to  bear 
the  bruising  hail  or  the  blustering  gale,  and  who  piteously 
ask  for  a  little  shelter  that  they  may  fulfil  their  destiny  in 
peace.  In  these,  we  have  an  example  of  one  class  of  plants 
suitable  for  the  unheated  greenhouse  ;  such,  in  fact,  as  are 
hardy  enough  to  live  through  even  severe  winters,  but  whose 
flowering  time  is  too  early  to  resist  injury,  in  most  localities, 
from  inclement  weather.  There  are  many  such  which,  with 
mere  shelter  in  a  light  glass-house,  will  come  into  flower,  and 
bring  us  a  welcome  foretaste  of  spring  while  the  garden, 


350  GARDENING  FOR   BEGINNERS 

maybe,  is  yet  lying  frost-bound.  Perhaps  this  may  seem  to 
be  somewhat  a  dull  limit  to  put  on  the  possibilities  of  the 
cold  greenhouse,  but  think  of  the  early  Azaleas,  Camellias, 
Mezereon,  and  double-flowered  cherry  and  peach  and  plum 
— of  the  host  of  hardy  bulbs — Narcissus  and  Tulip,  Hyacinth 
and  Lily,  and  rare  Iris,  which  are  so  beautiful  as  to  win  for 
themselves  a  comparison  with  the  gorgeous  Orchids  of  the 
tropics.  Think,  too,  of  everyday  flowers — {i  pale  Primrose  " 
with  all  her  sisterhood,  the  lovely  blue  Forget-me-Not,  and 
Lily  of  the  Valley,  so  common  yet  so  precious  that  florists 
not  only  force  it  into  bloom  in  winter's  cold,  but  lock  it  up 
in  ice  that  we  may  rejoice  in  it  during  summer  heat  ;  are  not 
such  as  these  always  welcome  ?  There  is  no  fear,  believe 
me,  that  we  should  lag  far  behind  our  neighbour  in  the 
matter  of  choice  and  fragrant  flowers  even  though  we  can- 
not vie  with  his  stove  exotics. 

It  is  in  the  dead  of  winter — those  few  weeks  that  usher  in 
and  follow  Christmas — that  the  resources  of  the  cold-house 
gardener  are  taxed  to  the  uttermost.  Chrysanthemums — 
admirable  plants  for  the  unheated  greenhouse  if  well  managed 
— begin  by  that  time  to  look  uncomfortable  and  to  damp  off  ; 
and  except  Roman  Hyacinths  and  the  earliest  of  Van  Thol 
Tulips,  it  is  a  little  soon  for  bulbs.  It  is  well,  at  this  dreary 
season,  especially  if  a  conservatory  must  be  kept  in  good 
order,  to  have  a  supply  of  evergreen  shrubs  and  ferns,  so  that 
greenery  at  any  rate  may  cheer  us,  even  if  flowers  be  few. 
Myrtle,  both  large-leaved  and  small,  Laurustinus,  Veronica, 
Eugenia,  and  Aralia  are  all  well  adapted  for  this  purpose. 
A  hardy  Fan-Palm  or  two  may  be  added,  with  small-leaved 
variegated  Ivies  and  evergreen  Ferns,  such  as  the  finer  Hart's 
Tongues  and  Welsh  and  other  forms  of  Polypody.  These 
and  such  as  these  are  a  great  stand-by  in  the  way  of  sturdy 
foliage  plants,  and  will  serve  many  a  good  turn  at  all  times 
of  year. 

During  those  same  few  dark  weeks,  when  all  nature  is  at 
rest,  I  am  bound  to  say  that  a  small,  movable  heat-radiator, 
set  going  by  a  lamp,  was  of  great  use  in  the  conservatory,  as 
much  for  the  purpose  of  drying  the  air  as  to  keep  out  frost. 
It  saved  the  plants  from  that  shuddering  look  which  even  the 
boldest  will  put  on  under  stress  of  severe  cold,  but  this  was 
never  used  and,  in  fact,  was  not  required  except  in  case  of 
very  hard  weather.  No  form  of  cold  greenhouse  is  more  de- 
lightful, perhaps,  than  a 

Rose  Garden  under  Glass,  and  this  requires  absolutely  no 
thought  of  heating  even  of  the  most  temporary  kind.  It  has, 


THE   COLD   GREENHOUSE  351 

also,  the  advantage  of  being  the  least  costly  as  to  furniture, 
for  a  central  bed  and  borders  at  the  sides  of  a  span-roofed 
house  may  take  the  place  of  stage  and  benches.  Here  Tea- 
scented,  hybrid  China,  and  Noisette  Roses  of  choicest  kinds, 
planted  out,  will  give  endless  pleasure  to  its  owner  and  will 
rarely  be  without  some  fair  blooms  to  reward  his  care ;  but 
space  may  also  be  allowed  for  pots  of  flowering  bulbs  to  be 
brought  in  from  outdoor  quarters  during  winter  and  early 
spring  or,  in  late  autumn,  groups  of  Chrysanthemums,  when 
Roses  are  scarce.  Or  the  unheated  greenhouse  may  be  used 
as  an  Alpine  garden.  The  rarest  gems  of  the  mountain, 
Soldanella  and  Saxifrage  and  Gentian,  even  Eritrichium 
nanum  itself,  that  sore  puzzle  to  Alpine  lovers,  strangely 
enough,  seem  to  find  in  the  shelter  of  glass  some  amends  for 
the  snow  covering  they  have  lost,  and  may  here  be  grown 
with  rare  success.  In  fact,  there  is  a  wide  range — even  that  of 
the  Temperate  Zone — where  we  may  wander  in  search  of 
suitable  plants,  but  we  must  take  care  that  our  footsteps  do 
not  trespass  even  on  the  verge  of  the  Tropics,  or  we  may 
court  failure.  Two  important  points  of  structure  amongst 
many  may  be  just  touched  upon.  These  are 

Ventilation  and  Shading — eThe  plants  we  wish  to  grow  are 
children  of  liberty  and  com  from  the  open  plain,  the  breezy 
hillside,  or  the  rocky  height.  Plenty  of  fresh  air,  but  without 
cross-currents,  is  essential  to  their  well  doing.  Therefore, 
take  care  that  the  cold  greenhouse  be  amply  provided  with 
ventilators  which  can  be  opened  or  shut  according  to  the 
way  of  the  wind.  Shading  is  of  scarcely  less  importance,  but 
in  nine  cases  out  of  ten  is  missing  altogether.  It  often  happens 
that  bright  sunshine  treads  close  on  the  steps  of  a  hard  frost. 
If  it  fall  on  frozen  foliage  under  glass,  the  most  serious  mis- 
chief follows.  Should  it  be  possible  to  arrange  an  outside 
covering  of  felt  on  rollers  protected  by  a  ridge  to  be  used  in 
case  of  need,  so  much  the  better.  It  will  make  all  snug  in 
severe  weather.  But  in  any  case,  do  not  neglect  to  have  inside 
blinds  of  some  sort,  not  only  to  tone  down  the  too  fervid 
rays  of  the  summer  sun,  but  no  less  to  prevent  the  winter 
scalding  of  frozen  plants. 

The  merits  of  an  unheated  plant-house  are  manifold,  for 
they  include  economy  in  working,  freedom  from  anxious  care 
and  labour  of  heating,  and  a  vast  choice  both  of  beautiful 
plants  and  of  methods  in  using  them  ;  but  its  management, 
perhaps  more  than  of  most  glass-houses,  is  a  matter  of  study 
and  forethought.  Study,  that  one  may  know  what  to  grow 
and  how  to  grow  it ;  forethought,  to  prepare  early  in  the  year 


352  GARDENING  FOR   BEGINNERS 

the  plants  one  wishes  to  find  in  flower  before  its  close,  but  he 
who  thinks  in  due  season  and  acts  upon  his  thoughts  will  not 
regret  the  time  nor  find  it  wasted,  that  has  been  spent  in  the 
genial  atmosphere  of  an  unheated  greenhouse.  [The  list  of 
plants  for  the  cold  greenhouse  recommended  by  "  K.  L.  D." 
is  given  in  the  chart,  p.  594.] 


THE  CHRYSANTHEMUM 


FEW  flowers  are  more  valuable  to  the  beginner  in  garden- 
ing than  the  Chrysanthemum,  and  its  culture  has  increased 
amazingly,  until  in  every  town  almost  in  the  British  Isles,  the 
Chrysanthemum  show  is  an  event  of  some  importance  in  the 
autumn  months.  Of  course,  in  the  land  of  the  Japanese  and 
Chinese  the  flower  is  held  in  great  esteem,  and  in  Japan  the 
Chrysanthemum  fete  is  one  of  the  high  festivals  of  the  year. 
Varieties  that  create  sensations  in  the  show  tents  have  been 
raised  of  late  years,  and  the  flowers  seem  to  increase  in  bulk  as 
the  years  go  by,  until  in  the  near  future  no  soup  plate  will  hold 
the  long,  frequently  picturesque,  florets.  Even  quite  a  small 
grower  may  win  prizes  at  the  exhibitions,  and  "showing"  is 
popular  at  the  present  day.  Those  who  care  little  for  mon- 
ster specimens  may  enjoy  a  feast  of  blossom  at  little  expense 
of  time,  labour,  and  money.  Growing  plants  for  exhibition 
requires  considerable  skill,  a  thorough  acquaintance  with  the 
most  recently  raised  varieties,  and  ample  leisure,  but  those 
desired  merely  for  the  greenhouse,  conservatory,  or  border, 
are  easily  managed.  As  the  following  notes  show,  the  Chry- 
santhemum is  divided  into  many  groups  :  Japanese,  Japanese 
incurved,  Japanese  reflexed,  incurved,  pompon,  Anemone 
pompon,  Japanese  pompon,  reflexed,  single,  and  even  other 
divisions.  We  are  pleased  to  find  that  raisers  are  giving  much 
attention  to  the  raising  of  outdoor  varieties  of  good  rich 
colours,  and  some  with  single  flowers.  In  the  late  days  of 
August,  throughout  September,  and  a  part  of  October,  Chry- 
santhemums give  colour  to  the  border  or  flower-bed,  and  with 
the  assistance  of  such  fine  kinds  as  Cottage  Pink,  Horace 
Martin,  yellow  ;  Etoile  d'Or,  yellow  ;  Mdme.  Marie  Masse, 
lilac  mauve ;  Le  Pactole,  bronzy  yellow  ;  Le  Cygne,  pure 
white  ;  Normandie,  pale  pink  ;  Champagne,  ruby  red ;  and 
Goacher's  Crimson,  their  season  is  continued  far  into  the 
autumn. 

How  to  Obtain  Good  Cuttings.— The  best  cuttings  are  those  which 
develop  at  the  base  or  crown  after  the  plants  have  finished  flowering 

353 


354  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

and  been  cut  back.  It  is  usual  to  cut  back  plants  to  within  a  few  inches 
of  their  base,  making  an  exception  in  the  case  of  those  somewhat  shy  in 
the  production  of  cuttings.  The  reason  for  leaving  a  greater  length  of 
stem  in  such  cases  is  that  cuttings  frequently  develop  on  the  stem  and 
must  be  detached.  A  good  rule  with  show  plants  is  to  shake  them  out 
of  their  flowering  pots,  then  reduce  the  ball  of  earth  sufficiently  to  re- 
place them  in  a  pot  measuring  six  inches  in  diameter.  Use  some  light 
gritty  compost,  and  avoid  too  firm  potting.  After  repotting  give  each 
plant  a  watering  in,  using  a  fine-rosed  can  for  the  purpose.  Stand  the 
plants  on  a  shelf  near  the  glass  roof  of  the  greenhouse,  and  if  this  is  not 
possible,  on  the  greenhouse  bench,  maintaining  a  temperature  of  between 
45  degrees  and  50  degrees.  In  a  short  time  a  fresh  lot  of  shoots  will  de- 
velop on  the  plants,  and  cuttings  of  this  kind  are  those  best  calculated 
to  give  satisfactory  results.  Where  large  quantities  of  cuttings  are 
required,  after  shaking  the  old  plants  out  of  their  flowering  pots,  reduc- 
ing the  ball  of  earth,  and  at  the  same  time  cutting  back  some  of  the  longer 
and  coarser  roots,  replant  them  in  a  bed  of  soil  made  up  on  the  green- 
house bench.  This  bed  of  light  gritty  soil  should  be  from  six  inches  to 
eight  inches  deep,  and  the  plants  not  too  firmly  bedded  out.  An  even 
surface  should  be  made,  so  that  when  watering  the  water  should  be  re- 
tained and  not  run  off  on  either  side,  as  is  the  case  unless  this  simple 
rule  be  observed.  The  same  temperature  should  be  given  in  this  case 
as  that  advised  for  plants  in  pots.  Within  a  period  of  ten  days  to  a 
fortnight  the  cutting  should  be  developing  in  large  numbers.  The  soil 
must  be  kept  just  moist,  neither  too  pasty  not  too  dry.  Some  may  not 
care  to  treat  their  old  plants  in  this  way ;  the  trouble  is  too  great.  If 
so,  cut  out  any  attenuated  shoots  of  comparatively  recent  growth,  also 
weakly  ones.  Although  the  early-flowering  varieties  appear  strong, 
they  are  often  among  the  first  of  the  old  plants  to  suffer,  and  when  such 
is  the  case  their  only  chance  is  either  to  repot  them  or  plant  them  out 
on  the  greenhouse  bench — the  two  methods  of  increasing  the  supply  of 
cuttings. 

The  Best  Cuttings.-— The  best,  and  in  truth  the  only  good,  cut- 
tings to  be  obtained  are  those  which  push  their  way  through  the  soil 
at  some  distance  from  the  old  stem.  These  are  of  recent  growth, 
and  generally  go  ahead  immediately  they  become  rooted.  The  other 
form  of  cuttings  is  produced  close  to  the  old  stem,  and  often  develops  on 
the  stem  itself.  Varieties  rather  shy  in  producing  cuttings  often  have 
to  be  perpetuated  by  stem-cuttings.  This  kind  should  not  be  too  long,  a 
desirable  length  being  between  two  and  a  half  inches  and  three  inches. 
It  should  be  detached  from  the  old  shoot  with  a  sharp  knife,  and  cut 
straight  through  immediately  below  a  joint  formed  by  the  junction  of 
the  leaf -stalk  with  the  stem.  The  bottom  leaf  should  be  removed  by 
the  sharp  knife  also,  trimming  this  off  close  to  the  stem  of  the  cutting. 
This  is  then  ready  for  inserting  in  the  propagating  frame.  Stem-cuttings 
are  not  advisable,  as  they  are  apt  to  develop  buds  prematurely,  and  in 
consequence  completely  upset  a  proper  system  of  high  culture,  besides 
causing  much  inconvenience  during  their  period  of  propagation. 


THE   CHRYSANTHEMUM  355 

Propagation  by  Cuttings.— The  period  for  the  propagation  by 
cuttings  depends  upon  when  the  grower  requires  his  plants  in  flower. 
If  the  object  be  simply  large  flowers  for  exhibition,  the  earlier  the  work 
is  taken  in  hand  the  better.  Cuttings  of  Japanese  sorts  for  this  purpose 
should  be  inserted  in  December.  The  late-flowering  Japanese  are  better 
if  attended  to  earlier,  even  in  November,  while  those  kinds  liable  to  blos- 
som earlier  than  the  majority,  namely,  mid-October  and  late  October, 
give  excellent  results  if  the  cuttings  are  put  in  late  in  January.  The 
object  in  varying  the  date  of  propagating  the  exhibition  varieties  is  to 
ensure  the  plants  flowering  for  the  most  part  at  the  same  time,  namely 
when  the  shows  are  taking  place  all  over  the  country.  The  earlier  half 
of  November  is  Chrysanthemum  show  time,  and  for  this  reason,  by  pro- 
pagating the  later  sorts  early  and  the  early  varieties  late,  the  plants  will 
bloom  about  one  time.  Cuttings  intended  to  produce  exhibition  plants 
should  be  inserted  singly  in  what  are  known  as  "  thumb  "  pots,  and  if 
deep  "  thumbs  "  can  be  obtained  so  much  the  better.  Wash  the  pots 
quite  clean,  and  soak  new  pots  in  clean  water  to  absorb  moisture.  The 
broken  potsherds  should  also  be  cleansed,  and  this  is  work  that  must  not 
be  neglected.  It  is  by  observing  such  details  as  this  that  success  is 
assured.  In  raising  plants  for  the  conservatory,  for  use  also  as  cut 
flowers,  or  for  planting  in  the  outdoor  border  for  a  rich  autumn  display, 
a  simpler  method  of  propagation  will  answer.  Half  a  dozen  or  more 
cuttings  may  be  inserted  around  the  edge  of  a  three-inch  pot  or 
a  larger  number  in  those  of  increased  size.  Boxes  about  two  inches 
deep,  fifteen  inches  long,  and  ten  inches  wide,  are  excellent  for  raising 
large  stocks  of  plants  in.  Another  method,  and  one  largely  adopted  by 
market  men,  is  that  of  making  up  shallow  beds  inside  the  cool  green- 
house, where  a  cool  bottom  can  be  obtained,  and  inserting  the  cuttings 
in  these.  Under  these  circumstances,  provided  the  soil  is  not  allowed 
to  become  too  moist,  failure  is  almost  unknown,  and  it  is  remarkable  how 
quickly  the  cuttings  root.  Both  in  the  case  of  boxes  and  the  beds 
arranged  on  the  stages  of  the  greenhouse,  a  good  system  of  drainage  should 
be  observed.  Potsherds  and  pieces  of  fibrous  turf  answer  the  purpose 
admirably,  keeping  the  drainage  open,  and  the  soil  sweet. 

Soil  for  Cuttings. — The  compost  for  the  cuttings  should  be  fibrous 
loam,  well-decomposed  leaf-mould,  and  coarse  silver  sand  or  road  grit  in 
equal  proportions.  Before  these  ingredients  can  be  used,  pass  them 
through  a  sieve  with  a  half-inch  mesh,  and  mix  them  thoroughly  after- 
wards. The  residue — the  fibrous  tufts  of  loam  and  the  coarser  and  less 
decayed  portions  of  the  leaf  soil — should  be  taken  care  of,  as  this  material 
will  be  wanted.  When  the  soil  is  ready  place  a  small  piece  of  crock  over 
the  hole  in  the  bottom  of  the  pot,  and  cover  this  with  a  layer  of  smaller 
pieces.  Cover  the  crocks  with  a  small  layer  of  the  rougher  sif tings  of  the 
compost  referred  to,  filling  in  the  soil  afterwards  to  the  rim  of  the  pots, 
and  giving  the  latter  a  sharp  rap  on  the  potting  bench  to  settle  the  soil 
rather  firmly.  A  pinch  of  silver  sand  should  be  placed  on  the  soil  in  the 
centre,  and  then  with  a  cedar-wood  pencil,  or  anything  similar  in  shape, 
make  a  hole,  carrying  down  the  sand  when  making  it,  the  hole  to  be  of 


356  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

sufficient  depth  to  bring  the  joint  of  the  first  leaf -stalk  of  the  cutting  on 
the  surface  of  the  soil.  The  cutting  is  less  likely  to  fail  when  the  base  of 
the  cutting  rests  upon  the  soil.  Press  the  soil  firmly  at  the  base  of  the 
cutting,  at  the  same  time  giving  pot  and  soil  a  gentle  rap  on  the  potting 
bench.  Label  each  cutting  as  it  is  inserted,  noting  the  date  of  the  opera- 
tion, which  may  afterwards  prove  instructive.  Go  through  all  the  cut- 
tings in  this  way  until  they  are  completed.  When  inserting  the  cuttings 
in  pots,  boxes,  or  on  the  greenhouse  bench,  keep  them  two  inches  apart 
and  three  inches  between  the  rows.  Should  the  compost  be  fairly  moist 
no  water  will  be  required  for  some  hours.  When  it  is  applied  give  a 
thorough  soaking  from  a  fine-rosed  can. 

Best  Place  for  Propagating. — The  custom  in  most  gardens  is  to 
place  the  pots  and  boxes  containing  the  cuttings  in  a  cold  frame  out- 
doors. The  pots,  &c.,  should  be  plunged  in  ashes,  cocoanut  fibre  refuse, 
spent  hops,  and  any  similar  substance,  thus  keeping  the  soil  in  the  pots 
moist,  and  also  affording  protection  should  severe  and  prolonged  frosts 
prevail.  Stable-litter  or  bracken  should  be  packed  round  the  sides  of 
the  frame  to  render  it  more  frost  proof.  The  material  inside  the  frame 
should  be  of  sufficient  heig;ht  to  raise  the  pots  well  up  to  the  frame- 
light,  so  that  when  the  cuttings  become  rooted  the  young  plants  are  not 
drawn  and  weakly.  In  frosty  weather  cover  the  frame-lights  with  a 
few  layers  of  mats,  and  frosts  of  more  than  ordinary  severity  may  be 
kept  out  by  covering  the  frame-lights  with  a  kind  of  thatch  made  of  straw 
or  bracken.  The  cuttings  or  young  plants  suffer,  and  sometimes  damp 
off  through  being  covered  up.  This  is  the  case  when  the  weather  con- 
tinues hard  for  many  weeks.  On  fine  and  mild  days  the  frame-lights 
may  be  slightly  tilted  to  ensure  ventilation. 

To  raise  plants  quickly,  and  with  little  risk  of  failure,  place  a  small 
frame  on  the  greenhouse  or  conservatory  bench,  and  plunge  the  pots  in 
this  in  the  same  way  as  advised  for  frames  outdoors.  The  temperature 
of  the  glass  structure  should  be  between  40  degrees  and  45  degrees,  but 
never  exceed  the  latter  figure.  Packing  round  the  frame  with  litter,  &c., 
is  unnecessary  in  this  case,  the  hot-water  pipes  maintaining  a  suitable 
temperature  and  anxiety  regarding  frosts  removed.  Those  who  do  not 
possess  a  frame  of  suitable  dimensions,  may  easily  and  quickly  erect  a 
temporary  one.  Put  ten-inch  planks,  about  an  inch  in  thickness,  cut 
to  any  size  or  shape,  together,  and  keep  the  boards  secure  and  upright. 
Laths  should  be  nailed  across  the  frame,  and  fixed  in  such  a  way  that 
sheets  of  glass  may  be  arranged  upon  them  to  form  a  kind  of  frame- 
light.  These  sheets  of  glass  may  be  removed  at  will,  and  any  given 
plant  or  number  of  plants  inspected  with  ease.  Within  a  month  many 
of  the  cuttings  will  have  rooted,  and  they  may  then  be  taken  from  the 
propagating  frame  to  another  structure,  or  temporary  frame,  without 
delay. 

Treatment  of  Young  Plants. — Place  the  rooted  cuttings,  or  what 
may  now  be  called  "  young  plants,"  in  a  rough  frame  on  the  greenhouse 
bench,  and  construct  this  in  a  similar  way  to  the  one  used  for  propa- 
gating described  earlier.  Put  the  pots  on  cocoanut  fibre  refuse  or 


THE  CHRYSANTHEMUM  357 

sifted  ashes,  and  give  each  one  sufficient  space  for  air  to  circulate  freely 
around.  The  frame  must  be  carefully  ventilated  at  first,  gradually  in- 
creasing the  ventilation  so  as  to  prevent  a  sickly  growth.  In  a  compar- 
tively  short  time  the  young  plants  will  bear  full  exposure  to  the  green- 
house without  flagging,  and  forthwith  continue  to  grow.  The  more 
forward  plants  when  sufficiently  hardened  may  safely  be  placed  on  the 
shelves  of  the  greenhouse  near  to  the  glass  ;  this  will  keep  them  sturdy 
and  stocky.  It  is  a  mistake  to  stand  the  pots  on  the  bare  boards  of  the 
shelves,  as  with  the  lengthening  days  after  the  turn  of  the  year,  accom- 
panied with  short  periods  of  bright  sunshine,  the  soil  quickly  dries,  and 
unless  one  is  constantly  on  the  alert  many  of  these  young  Chrysanthe- 
mums receive  a  serious  check.  It  is  a  good  rule  to  spread  a  layer  of 
cocoanut  fibre,  or  any  other  substance  answering  the  same  purpose,  on 
the  shelves,  first  standing  the  plants  on  this  material.  By  these  means 
the  air  is  kept  cooler  than  would  otherwise  be  the  case,  consequently 
less  water  is  required.  Until  the  whole  of  the  cuttings  are  rooted,  they 
must  be  constantly  shifted  from  one  structure  to  another  before  hardening 
them  off.  Ventilate  as  occasion  offers,  and  special  pains  must  be  taken 
to  keep  the  temperature  at  about  45  degrees  or  the  plants  will  become 
drawn.  As  the  days  get  warmer  admit  air  more  freely,  and  as  soon  as 
the  cuttings  become  rooted  in  the  frames  outdoors  give  ventilation  upon 
all  favourable  occasions.  Advantage  must  be  taken  of  fine  days  to  in- 
crease the  supply  of  air.  Plants  raised  in  this  way  are  often  sickly  in 
the  early  season,  but  by  judicious  ventilation  and  careful  water-supply 
an  alteration  soon  occurs.  Light  overhead  syringings  on  hot  days  are 
beneficial. 

First  Repotting. — As  soon  as  the  young  plants  have  filled  their  small 
pots  with  roots  shift  them  into  those  of  larger  size.  Those,  too,  which 
were  rooted  around  the  edge  of  small  pots  and  also  propagated  in  boxes, 
should  receive  similar  attention  when  well  rooted.  Repot  plants  rooted 
singly  in  "  thumb  "  pots  into  those  measuring  three  and  a  half  inches 
across,  and  known  as  large  sixties.  Small  sixties — pots  three  inches  in 
diameter — will  suffice  for  the  others,  and  on  this  account  prepare  them 
in  good  time.  It  is  a  good  rule  to  prepare  for  the  next  operation  as  the 
last  one  is  finished.  The  pots  and  crocks  should  always  be  cleansed  when 
dirty,  and  new  pots  soaked  in  clean  water.  The  compost  for  the  first 
repotting  should  be  as  follows  : — Three  parts  fibrous  loam,  one  part 
thoroughly  rotted  manure,  and  one  part  good  leaf-mould.  To  this  add 
half  a  part  of  coarse  sand  or  road  grit  and  a  dusting  of  wood  ashes  or 
crushed  charcoal.  Pass  the  first  three  ingredients  through  a  coarse 
sieve,  and  pull  the  pieces  of  fibrous  matter  apart  as  far  as  possible.  Then 
thoroughly  mix  the  whole  of  the  ingredients,  and  when  completed  all  will 
be  ready.  Begin  first  with  the  plants  which  give  evidence  of  being  well 
rooted,  and  rather  defer  the  potting  up  of  any  plant  for  a  day  or  two 
than  shift  it  into  a  pot  of  larger  size  before  it  is  ready.  Crock  with  care, 
covering  these  with  the  rougher  siftings,  which  form  an  admirable  drainage 
and  also  prevent  the  soil  clogging  the  crocks.  Turn  each  plant  out  of 
its  pot,  removing  the  crocks  from  its  base  so  as  not  to  damage  the 


358  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

tender  roots.  A  layer  of  soil  should  cover  the  drainage  material  just 
referred  to,  and  on  this  place  the  ball  of  the  repotted  plant  evenly.  Work 
in  the  compost  between  the  ball  of  the  repotted  plant  and  the  pot,  using 
a  stout  label  for  the  purpose,  or  any  flat  piece  of  wood  about  an  inch  and 
a  half  wide  and  half  an  inch  thick.  Ram  the  soil  in  firmly  with  this  simple 
arrangement,  and  if  the  pot  be  rapped  occasionally  on  the  potting-bench 
during  the  process  of  repotting,  keeping  the  thumbs  on  the  surface  of 
the  ball  of  earth  at  the  same  time,  the  soil  settles  down  firmly  and  the 
operation  is  complete.  The  surface  of  the  ball  must  be  sufficiently  below 
the  rim  of  the  pot  to  allow  water  to  be  given.  When  removing  the  rooted 
cuttings  from  the  pots  and  boxes,  disturb  the  roots  as  little  as  possible. 
After  the  first  repotting  remove  the  plants  to  a  temporary  frame  for 
a  few  days,  gradually  inuring  them  to  the  more  airy  conditions  of  the 
greenhouse.  They  may  then  be  placed  on  the  shelves  near  the  glass, 
and  kept  growing  steadily  until  they  are  removed  into  frames  outside. 

Placing  Young  Plants  in  Cold  Frames.— Early  March  is  a  good 
time  to  place  the  earliest  plants  which  were  raised  in  the  cool  green- 
house outdoors  in  cold  frames.  Of  course,  this  depends  in  a  large 
measure  upon  the  weather.  However,  when  it  is  possible  to  do  this 
work,  stand  the  plants  on  ashes,  not  pot  to  pot,  and  keep  them  well 
up  under  the  glass  to  promote  sturdy  growth.  Admit  air  carefully, 
taking  advantage  of  fine  days  to  give  a  more  abundant  supply.  Avoid 
draughts  from  the  cutting  easterly  and  north-easterly  winds,  which 
quickly  interfere  with  the  plants'  progress.  As  the  season  advances 
more  air  may  be  given,  until  on  fine  days  in  early  April,  the  frame-lights 
may  be  removed. 

Standing  Plants,  in  the  Open.— In  the  south  of  England,  where  a 
sheltered  position  can  be  provided,  stand  the  plants  outdoors  about 
middle  of  April,  and  if  the  aspect  be  a  warm  one — say,  south  or  west — 
and  protection  can  be  afforded  from  the  cold  winds  from  other  quarters, 
no  better  place  could  be  chosen.  Where  the  situation  is  low  and  damp, 
delay  from  a  week  to  ten  days  later  before  putting  out  the  plants  in 
the  open.  In  the  Midlands  make  the  date  for  placing  them  outdoors 
a  week  later  than  that  first  mentioned,  and  in  the  north  the  first  week  in 
May  is  the  time  to  ensure  safety. 

Subsequent  Repottings.—By  early  April  a  second  repotting  will 
be  needful,  and  if  the  plants  can  be  well  established  in  these  larger  pots 
before  they  are  placed  outdoors  so  much  the  better.  The  plants  in  large 
sixties  (three  and  a  half  inch  pots)  should  be  potted  up  into  thirty-twos 
(six-inch  pots),  and  those  in  small  sixties  (three-inch  pots)  into  forty- 
eights  (five-inch  pots).  Spread  this  operation  over  some  time,  as  the 
plants  are  not  all  in  the  same  condition,  and  will  therefore  need  repot- 
ting much  earlier  than  those  of  a  less  vigorous  growth.  In  this  case 
also  see  that  the  pots  and  crocks  are  scrupulously  clean.  For  this  shift 
the  compost  must  be  richer  and  more  lasting,  the  following  ingredients 
meeting  their  requirements  at  this  somewhat  early  season.  Of  good 
fibrous  loam,  by  no  means  heavy  or  retentive,  take  four  parts,  one  part 
well-decayed  leaf-mould,  and  one  part  of  horse  droppings,  prepared  as 


THE   CHRYSANTHEMUM  359 

for  a  mushroom  bed.  To  these  add  a  third  part  of  coarse  sand  or  road 
grit,  a  third  of  a  part  of  crushed  oyster  shells,  and,  in  addition,  a  liberal 
sprinkling  of  bone-meal  and  any  well-known  concentrated  manure.  The 
heap  should  be  well  mixed,  turning  it  over  repeatedly  until  quite  satisfied 
that  each  of  the  ingredients  is  evenly  distributed.  In  this  case  it  will 
not  be  necessary  to  pass  the  compost  through  a  coarse  sieve,  but  pull 
the  larger  pieces  of  turfy  loam  into  pieces  about  the  size  of  a  walnut. 
Crock  and  pot  with  increasing  care,  rendering  the  soil  firmer  at  each  re- 
potting. Cover  the  crocks  as  before  with  the  rougher  portions  of  the  soil, 
and  when  placing  the  plant  in  the  new  pot,  keep  the  surface  of  the  ball  of 
earth  well  below  the  rim  of  the  pot.  Ram  the  compost  in  firmly,  other- 
wise the  aftergrowth  will  be  poor.  Stand  the  plants  when  repotted  in 
a  somewhat  shady  place,  allowing  them  to  remain  there  for  a  few  days, 
or  until  they  have  recovered  from  the  check.  When  the  soil  is  just  moist 
no  water  will  be  needed  by  the  repotted  plants  for  a  day  or  two,  unless 
one  is  much  drier  than  another.  A  few  hours  before  repotting  the  plants 
water  them  thoroughly.  When  watering  of  the  repotted  plants  is  neces- 
sary give  them  a  copious  supply  to  ensure  the  whole  of  the  soil  becoming 
thoroughly  moistened.  In  the  course  of  a  few  days  the  plants  may  be 
placed  in  the  open  in  double  rows,  standing  them  on  boards  or  a  very 
thick  layer  of  ashes  or  coke  breeze.  Place  a  small  hazel  stake  in  each 
pot  to  support  the  plant,  the  latter  being  lightly  looped  to  the  stake, 
and  not  tied  tightly  as  is  so  often  the  case.  They  may  be  left  thus  until 
the  final  potting  is  necessary. 

Final  Potting. — Chrysanthemums  are  usually  placed  in  their  flower- 
ing pots  during  the  early  summer,  but  this  operation  entirely  depends 
upon  the  condition  of  individual  plants.  This  final  potting  is  an  im- 
portant cultural  detail,  and  to  achieve  success  pay  special  attention  to 
the  preparation  of  the  compost.  This  should  be  composed  as  follows : 
Four  parts  good  fibrous  loam,  one  part  leaf-mould,  half  a  part  of  horse 
droppings,  prepared  as  for  a  mushroom  bed,  and  a  sixth  of  a  part  each 
of  wood  ashes,  or  crushed  charcoal,  and  crushed  oyster  shells.  A  free 
sprinkling  each  of  some  good  concentrated  manure,  such  as  Clay's,  and 
a  similar  quantity  of  quarter-inch  bones,  will  promote  vigorous  growth ; 
but  as  the  plants  are  to  remain  in  these  pots  for  five  or  six  months  at  least, 
a  lasting  compost  is,  of  course,  essential.  The  compost  must  be  well 
mixed,  turning  the  heap  over  repeatedly  each  day  for  a  few  days,  and 
keep  the  mixture  outdoors.  In  the  meantime  the  pots  for  this  final  shift 
should  be  got  ready,  washed  inside  as  well  as  outside,  and  the  potsherds 
cleansed  also.  Plants  at  this  time,  in  six-inch  pots,  should  be  transferred 
into  those  either  nine  or  ten  inches  in  diameter,  selecting  those  of  more 
vigorous  growth  for  pots  of  larger  size. ,  Those  in  five-inch  pots  may  go 
into  others  eight  or  nine  inches  across,  observing  the  same  rule  regarding 
the  more  vigorous  sorts  as  advised  for  plants  just  mentioned.  Many 
of  the  Japanese  varieties  succeed  better  in  large  pots,  but  for  the  in- 
curved Anemones,  and  other  large-flowered  types,  pots  nine  inches  in 
diameter  are  excellent.  For  the  Pompons,  singles  and  early-flowering 
kinds,  choose  the  eight-inch  size,  as  in  these  they  develop  into  quite 


360  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

delightful  decorative  plants  for  the  conservatory.  This  is  also  a  useful 
size  to  select  for  plants  grown  to  give  cut  flowers.  Crock  with  care, 
covering  the  crock  with  a  handful  of  half-inch  bones  or  crushed  oyster 
shells,  this  layer  in  turn  being  covered  with  pieces  of  turfy  loam  as  before. 
Place  a  good  layer  of  soil  over  the  turfy  loam  just  referred  to,  making 
it  firm  ;  and  with  regard  to  other  details  pot  with  increased  firmness. 
The  compost  should  be  worked  well  down  the  sides  of  the  pots,  taking 
care  not  to  damage  the  roots  of  the  plants,  and,  as  before,  keep  the 
surface  of  the  ball  of  earth  being  repotted  well  below  the  rim  of  the  pot, 
at  least  one  and  a  half  inches,  to  facilitate  watering.  Begin  first  with 
the  stronger  growing  and  well-rooted  plants,  and  as  the  operation 
generally  takes  some  time,  the  latest  batch  will  succeed  in  proper  order. 
Stand  the  plants  in  groups  of  about  twenty  each,  and  thus  keep  them 
cool  at  the  roots.  If  the  plants  are  not  staked  by  this  time, delay  no  longer. 
Either  insert,  temporarily,  small  hazel  stakes  about  two  feet  in  length,  or 
secure  a  bundle  or  two  of  bamboo  canes,  which  vary  in  length  from 
about  three  feet  upwards  to  suit  the  height  of  almost  any  plant.  They 
are  neat,  lasting,  and  seem  specially  adapted  for  the  purpose.  Water  as 
advised  earlier,  and  syringe  the  foliage  during  hot  weather. 

Summer  Quarters. — An  open  position  is  advisable,  as  full  ex- 
posure to  the  sun  and  free  circulation  of  air  between  the  plants  promote 
sturdy  growth.  The  best  place  is  one  with  a  south  and  western  aspect, 
where  shelter  from  the  south-westerly  and  other  gales  can  be  provided. 
Stand  the  plants  in  rows  running  north  and  south  and  upon  boards, 
slates,  or  tiles  to  keep  out  worms.  Stout  galvanised  wire  should  be 
strained  between  upright  stakes  at  both  ends  of  the  rows,  and  supported 
by  others  about  ten  feet  apart.  Two  rows  of  wire,  one  at  three  feet  and 
another  at  five  feet  above  the  garden  level,  will  answer  well ;  securely 
tie  the  stakes  in  the  pots  to  these  cross  wires,  using  tarred  twine  or  thin 
wire.  This  done  well,  rough  winds  will  inflict  no  damage.  Those  who 
cannot  devote  a  portion  of  their  garden  to  this  purpose  should  use  the 
sides  of  the  gravel  paths. 

Summer  Treatment — Chrysanthemums  require  unremitting  atten- 
tion. Watering  is  of  the  utmost  importance.  Water  should  only  be 
given  when  the  plants  are  dry  at  the  roots,  not  dust  dry,  as  this  means  a 
serious  check.  The  way  to  ascertain  whether  water  is  needful  or  other- 
wise is  to  rap  the  pot  with  the  knuckles,  or  anything  to  answer  the  same 
purpose.  When  a  distinct  ring  is  the  result,  a  full  supply  of  water  is 
required,  but  the  reverse  is  the  case  when  the  sound  is  dull.  When 
watering  always  give  a  copious  supply  to  dry  plants,  and  if  any  are  very 
dry  apply  water  a  second  time.  As  the  plants  are  so  much  exposed  to 
air  and  sun,  the  soil  dries  quickly ;  when  they  are  well  rooted,  it  is  neces- 
sary on  hot  days  to  examine  them  three  or  four  times.  As  the  shoots 
progress  carefully  loop  them  to  the  stakes.  It  is  a  mistake  to  tie  tightly, 
as  the  growths  are  brittle  and  break  off  quite  easily.  A  loop-like  tie 
gives  sufficient  space  for  the  shoot.  Tie  where  the  stem  is  hardening. 
Earwigs  must  be  trapped  as  the  plants  develop,  otherwise  they  eat  out 
the  points  of  the  shoots,  and  the  way  to  catch  them  is  to  put  thumb  pots 


THE   CHRYSANTHEMUM  361 

with  hay  or  paper  in  them  upside  down  on  the  stakes.  Inspect  the  traps 
each  morning,  and  shake  the  earwigs  into  a  vessel  of  boiling  water. 
There  are  many  other  contrivances  for  trapping  the  earwigs,  such  as 
bean-stalks  and  match-boxes,  and  all  are  good  in  their  way.  In  early 
May  watch  for  a  leaf -mining  maggot,  which  quickly  works  into  the  tissues 
of  the  leaves.  Unless  means  are  taken  to  check  the  spread  of  this  pest  the 
plants  suffer  seriously.  The  maggot  can  easily  be  traced,  and  when  seen 
removed  with  a  penknife,  or  else  squeeze  the  affected  leaves  between  the 
finger  and  thumb.  As  a  preventive  the  plants  may  be  dusted  with  soot, 
or,  what  is  better,  syringe  a  solution,  made  from  quassia  chips,  over  the 
plants  occasionally  during  early  May  and  once  or  twice  afterwards. 
Another  pest,  known  to  growers  as  the  "  jumper,"  often  causes  havoc 
among  the  tender  growths  just  before  bud  formation.  It  is  very  active 
and  difficult  to  catch,  but  by  constant  disturbance  of  its  quarters  and 
lightly  passing  the  hands  over  the  shoots  each  time  the  plants  are 
visited  its  depredations  are  stopped.  Green-fly  and  black-fly  may  be 
easily  eradicated  by  dusting  with  tobacco  powder,  no  matter  when  they 
make  their  appearance.  Dust  the  under  side  of  mildewed  leaves  with 
flowers  of  sulphur. 

Buds  and  their  Development—  Each  plant  first  develops  what  is 
known  generally  as  a  "  break  "  bud,  which  is  the  first  change  in  the 
plant's  life,  and  so  called  because  the  plant  breaks  out  into  fresh  growth 
from  this  point.  The  bud  appears  in  the  apex  of  the  single  shoot,  which 
is  grown  on  from  the  cutting  stage,  and  is  surrounded  by  several  new 
growths.  It  is  usual  to  pinch  out  the  bud,  selecting  afterwards  to  be 
grown  on  three  or  four,  more  or  less,  of  the  strongest  shoots  just  referred 
to.  These  fresh  shoots  soon  go  ahead,  and  in  the  course  of  two  or  three 
months  in  most  cases  a  bud  is  developed  in  the  point  of  each  of  the  shoots 
grown  on  from  the  "  break."  These  buds  are  known  as  first  "  crown  " 
buds,  and  growers  of  exhibition  flowers  frequently  retain  or  secure  this 
bud  by  pinching  off  the  young  shoots  surrounding  it,  leaving  the  bud 
quite  alone  at  the  apex  of  the  shoot.  As  many  Chrysanthemums,  how- 
ever, fail  to  give  the  best  flowers  from  a  first  "  crown  "  bud  selection, 
this  kind  of  bud  is  pinched  out  and  one  or  more  of  the  young  shoots 
surrounding  it  are  grown  on  vigorously.  These  in  about  a  month  or  six 
weeks  each  develop  what  is  called  a  second  "  crown  "  bud  ;  and  as  this 
is  the  more  popular  kind  it  is  more  often  retained.  As  in  the  case  of  the 
first  "  crown  "  buds,  a  bud  is  retained  by  pinching  out  the  shoots  surround- 
ing it,  leaving  each  bud  quite  alone  at  the  top  of  the  shoot.  Second 
"  crown  "  buds  invariably  develop  handsome  flowers,  and  are  highly 
valued  for  their  decorative  value  in  the  conservatory  as  well  as  for 
exhibition.  The  majority  of  Chrysanthemums  develop  first  the  "  break  " 
bud,  then  the  first  "  crown  "  bud,  which  is  succeeded  by  the  second 
"  crown "  bud,  and  finally  by  a  "  terminal "  bud.  A  terminal  bud 
marks  the  termination  of  the  plant's  growth,  and  instead  of  only  one  bud 
being  developed  on  each  stem  or  shoot,  the  buds  are  produced  in  clusters. 
The  whole  of  these  terminal  buds  are  seldom  allowed  to  develop,  they  are 
more  often  thinned  out  slightly,  in  which  case  they  make  a  charming 


362  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

flower  display  when  most  of  the  big  flowers  are  over.  When  terminal 
buds  are  preferred  to  all  others,  the  second  "  crown  "  buds  must  not  be 
retained  but  be  pinched  out,  and  the  shoots  succeeding  them  grown  on. 
In  a  short  time  the  terminal  buds  will  develop  and  must  be  thinned  out 
as  described.  A  few  Japanese  varieties  persistently  develop  "  crown  " 

buds,  but  ultimately  even  these 
produce  their  crop  of  terminal 
buds. 

Period  for  Buds  to  be  Re- 
tained. —  Chrysanthemums  vary  so 
much  in  time  of  flowering  that  it 
is  difficult  to  determine  buds  of 
new  kinds  to  secure.  However,  as 
a  general  rule,  retain  buds  of 
Japanese  varieties  any  time  after 
the  first  week  in  August,  deferring 
the  selection  of  buds  of  the  In- 
curved and  Anemones  until  the  end 
of  the  same  month,  and  the  first 
week  of  September.  The  Pompons, 
and  small  decorative  sorts  on  ter- 
minal buds,  if  retained  during  the 
middle  of  September,  develop  their 
flowers  the  second  week  in  Nov- 
ember. The  buds  should  be  kept 
in  an  upright  position  when  once 
they  have  been  retained,  these  re- 
marks applying  more  particularly 

_  *  .  to  buds  grown  to  produce  flowers 

FIG.  20.-Termmal  Buds.  Qf   high  *uality<     ^  advantage 

So  called  because  they  terminate  the  plant's  Of  observing  this  somewhat  simple 

growth.     If  only  one  large  bloom  be  de-  ,                             ,        ,      ,        ,        F 

sired,  remove  all  but  the  largest  bud  in  Hlle     IS     that    the     buds     develop 

the  centre.  For  a  free  display  of  blossoms  evenly,  and  the  long  graceful  florets 


dinary  way.  hazel  stakes  should  be  tied  on  the 

stouter  ones  inserted  in  pots  earlier 

in  the  season,  and  so  arranged  that  they  are  brought  up  immediately 
under  the  bud. 

Terminal  Buds.  —  The  illustration  depicts  the  development  of 
terminal  buds.  If  a  free  display  of  blossoms  be  the  aim  of  the  culti- 
vator, the  whole  of  the  buds  should  be  allowed  to  produce  flowers.  If 
three  or  four  blooms  only  are  wanted,  disbud  to  this  number.  In  all 
cases,  where  large  handsome  flowers  are  desired,  every  bud  but  the 
largest  bud  in  the  centre  should  be  removed.  Before  this  is  determined, 
however,  the  bud  it  is  proposed  to  retain  should  be  carefully  examined, 
to  see  if  it  is  of  good  and  even  shape.  Should  this  fail  to  attain  the 
standard  required,  retain  one  of  the  smaller  buds  surrounding  it,  remov- 
ing all  others  at  the  time. 


THE   CHRYSANTHEMUM  363 

Bush  Plants. — These  find  much  favour  with  those  who  prefer  an 
abundance  of  flowers.  When  they  are  propagated  as  early  as  December 
or  January,  there  should  be  no  difficulty  in  obtaining  very  large  plants. 
The  method  of  culture  to  be  followed  in  this  case  is  very  simple.  When 
the  young  plant  is  from  six  inches  to  eight  inches  high,  pinch  out  the 
tip  or  point  of  the  shoot,  thus  inducing  the  plant  to  break  out  into  fresh, 
new  growths  at  the  axils  of  the  leaves  immediately  below.  From  this 
time,  as  succeeding  shoots  attain  a  length  of  six  inches,  pinch  out  the 
points.  If  a  November  display  be  the  aim  of  the  cultivator,  the  last 
"  pinching  "  should  take  place  during  the  third  week  of  June,  while  for 
a  December  display  continue  pinching  the  shoots  until  the  third  week 
of  July.  The  plants  by  this  treatment  flower  on  terminal  buds,  and 
with  the  exception  of  thinning  out  if  necessary  they  may  be  left  to 
develop.  For  the  greenhouse  and  conservatory  these  plants  are  un- 
equalled, and  as  cut  flowers  for  indoor  decorations  these  freely-flowered 
plants  are  specially  suitable. 

Early-Flowering  Chrysanthemums. — Those  who  have  never 
grown  the  early-flowering  Chrysanthemums  miss  many  charming  varieties. 
There  are  now  many  English  raisers,  and  their  varieties  are  fast  dis- 
placing sorts  of  Continental  origin.  Beautiful  varieties  are  in  store 
in  the  near  future,  and  there  is  a  real  prospect  of  English  gardens  in 
autumn  reflecting  the  glory  of  drowsy  summer  days.  They  are  essen- 
tially plants  for  the  outdoor  garden,  where  their  flowers  make  patches  of 
colour  when  Dahlias  and  other  tender  subjects  are  cut  down  by  frost ; 
the  early-flowering  Chrysanthemums  continue  blossoming  freely  until 
severe  frosts  occur.  The  best  plants  are  dwarf  and  branching,  and 
develop  their  growths  without  any  interference  whatever.  Cuttings  may 
be  inserted  between  January  and  the  end  of  March,  while  many  of  the 
Pompons  may  be  propagated  as  late  even  as  May.  The  advantage  of 
early  propagation  is  that  larger  plants  by  these  means  are  developed, 
January  cuttings  often  resulting  in  plants  which  will  carry  one  hundred 
and  fifty  flowers.  They  should  be  potted  up  into  pots  of  various  sizes 
as  advised  for  the  mid-season  sorts,  the  last  shift  for  plants  intended  for 
the  outdoor  border  being  into  those  five  inches  in  diameter.  Before 
planting  out,  carefully  harden  off  the  plants  in  cold  frames,  and  stand 
them  together  in  batches  in  a  sheltered  position  out  of  doors.  The  third 
week  in  May  is  the  best  time  for  planting,  all  danger  of  serious  frosts 
then  being  over.  The  ground  should  have  been  deeply  dug  previously, 
but  not  too  much  enriched  with  manures.  Plant  firmly,  allowing  a 
distance  between  each  plant  of  three  feet  for  the  Japanese  sorts,  and  the 
same  distance  between  each  row.  The  Pompons  require  less  space,  two 
and  a  half  feet  between  the  plants  and  the  rows  answering  the  purpose 
well.  An  occasional  hoeing  between  the  plants  during  the  summer 
months  will  keep  weeds  in  check,  and  sweeten  the  soil.  In  very  dry 
weather  water  copiously,  and  give  a  liberal  supply  of  liquid  manure 
once  or  twice  after  the  buds  are  formed.  In  wet  weather  dust  the  soil 
around  the  plants  with  one  of  the  concentrated  manures.  It  will  be 
necessary,  before  the  summer  has  advanced  much,  to  insert  a  stout  stake 


364  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

or  bamboo  cane,  for  the  support  of  the  taller  plants.  The  main  stem 
should  be  tied  fairly  tightly  to  the  stake,  and  the  branching  growths 
lightly  looped  to  it  also.  Do  not  disbud  the  plants  except  in  the  case 
of  the  more  crowded  sorts,  and  then  only  partially,  or  the  flowers  will 
expand  quite  out  of  character.  The  early-flowering  varieties  succeed  well 
in  pots,  those  eight  inches  in  diameter,  in  almost  every  instance,  answer 
ing  their  requirements. 

Housing  the  Plants. — With  regard  to  the  ordinary  mid-season 
or  November-flowering  plants,  they  must  be  placed  under  glass  towards 
the  end  of  September  or  the  first  week  in  October.  The  work  entirely 
depends  upon  the  condition  of  the  plants  and  the  kind  of  weather  at 
this  period.  Plants  should  be  housed  in  September  as  soon  as  any  of 
the  buds  begin  to  show  colour,  otherwise  the  heavy  dews  will  result  in 
"  damping,"  in  which  case  the  buds  often  become  worthless.  About  the 
third  week  in  September  sharp  frosts  often  occur,  and  it  is  wise  to  place 
as  many  plants  as  possible  under  glass  without  delay,  as  the  grower 
must  run  no  risks  at  this  time.  When  the  weather  remains  genial  and 
open,  proceed  with  the  housing  of  the  plants  leisurely,  making  a  careful 
arrangement  to  obtain  a  good  effect.  Thoroughly  cleanse  the  glass, 
limewash  the  walls,  and  make  the  roof  waterproof.  Drip  must  be  pre- 
vented at  all  costs.  On  no  account  crowd  the  plants,  as  this  is  a  fruitful 
source  of  failure. 

Treatment  of  Plants  under  Glass.— When  once  the  plants  are 
housed  in  the  autumn,  and  their  arrangement  determined  so  as  to  obtain 
the  best  effect,  give  abundant  ventilation.  To  keep  the  plants  healthy, 
doors  and  ventilators  should  be  kept  wide  open  when  the  weather  is 
favourable.  When  they  are  not  crowded,  and  air  is  permitted  to  circulate 
freely  in  the  house,  the  leaves  are  less  apt  to  fall.  It  is  well  to  water 
in  the  early  morning,  so  that  superfluous  moisture  is  dried  up  before 
the  evening,  and  give  liquid  manure  until  the  flowers  are  two-thirds 
expanded,  after  which  gradually  cease  supplying  stimulants  until  only 
clear  water  is  applied.  Dead  leaves  should  be  picked  off,  and  the  soil 
in  the  pots  kept  free  from  weeds.  The  trapping  of  earwigs  should  also 
be  continued,  and  caterpillars  watched  for  after  dark,  a  good  lantern 
being  invaluable  for  this  purpose ;  keep  hot-water  pipes  well  warmed 
on  frosty  nights  and  days.  Also,  when  the  weather  is  damp  and 
foggy,  maintain  a  temperature  of  about  50  degrees ;  this  will  prevent 
damping,  and  assist  the  buds  to  open.  Sheets  of  blotting  paper,  fixed 
about  six  inches  above  fine  blooms  during  the  night,  or  in  foggy  weather, 
will  prevent  loss  through  damping.  This  is  particularly  advantageous 
in  low-lying  districts. 

Thirty  Japanese  Varieties. — The  following  are  varieties  of  recent 
introduction,  of  high  merit  and  reliable,  such  that  amateurs  must  possess 
if  they  wish  to  succeed  in  the  exhibition  room.  They  are,  moreover, 
mostly  of  dwarf  habit  and  easy  to  grow  :  His  Majesty,  rich  crimson; 
King  George,  mulberry  red ;  G.  J.  Bier,  pure  white ;  Bob  Pulling,  a 
rich  yellow  ;  Duchess  of  Westminster,  rosy  mauve ;  Japan,  rich,  clear 
yellow;  Miss  A.  E.  Roope,  golden  yellow;  Gertrude  Peers,  chestnut 


THE   CHRYSANTHEMUM  365 

crimson  ;  Pockett's  White  Australia,  white ;  Thomas  Lunt,  crimson, 
very  strong  grower ;  Lady  Francis  Ryder,  pearly  white ;  Mrs.  Gilbert 
Drabble,  marble  white ;  Marie  Loomes,  chestnut  terra-cotta ;  H.  E. 
Couverse,  reddish  bronze  ;  William  Turner,  pure  white  ;  George  Hemming, 
purple  amaranth ;  Francis  Jolliffe,  creamy  yellow,  edged  light  rose ; 
Evangeline,  white ;  Rose  Pockett,  old  gold,  shaded  salmon  ;  Mrs.  R.  H.  B. 
Marsham,  pure  white ;  Mrs.  R.  Luxford,  Indian  red ;  Mrs.  L.  Thorn, 
yellow  ;  Mrs.  A.  T.  Miller,  white  ;  White  Queen  ;  Master  James,  chestnut 
red ;  W.  Mease,  old  rosy  cerise ;  Mrs.  W.  Knox,  yellow  and  bronze ; 
Master  David,  deep  crimson  ;  Lady  E.  Letch  worth,  yellow ;  and  Harry 
Wood,  crimson,  shaded  scarlet. 

Twenty  Incurved  Varieties.— Heston  Gladstone,  pure  white; 
Mrs.  P.  E.  Wiseman,  primrose  ;  Durbar,  rich  plum ;  Ethel  Thorpe,  silvery 
pink  ;  Mrs.  G.  Denyer,  silvery  pink  ;  Mrs.  Robert  Hall,  rich  orange  ;  Miss 
Nellie  Hall,  canary  yellow ;  Frank  Irestion,  amber  and  orange ;  Edwin 
Thorpe,  white ;  Clara  Wells,  rich  cream ;  J.  Wynne,  white,  suffused  pink ; 
Marvel,  primrose,  suffused  pink  ;  Buttercup,  yellow  ;  Charles  H.  Curtis, 
yellow ;  Mrs.  F.  Judson,  pure  white ;  W.  Biddle,  golden  bronze  ; 
Romance,  yellow ;  Mrs.  J.  P.  Bryce,  white,  tinted  rose ;  G.  F.  Evans, 
chrome  yellow  ;  and  Lady  Isabel,  blush  white. 

Twelve  Single-Flowered  Varieties.— Mrs.  Tresham  Gilbey,  deep 
yellow ;  Mrs.  W.  G.  Patching,  bronzy  chestnut ;  Ceddie  Mason,  terra-cotta ; 
Mensa,  pure  white ;  Metta,  deep  magenta ;  Mrs.  R.  C.  Pulling,  clear 
pink ;  Mary  Richardson,  reddish  salmon  ;  Edith  Pagram,  rich  pink ; 
Roupel  Beauty,  wine  red ;  Sandown  Radiance,  chestnut  crimson ; 
Reginald  Godfrey,  yellow  ;  and  Sylvia  Slade,  garnet  red. 

Twelve  Varieties  for  Decoration  and  Cut  Blooms.— Mrs.  J.  W. 
Scott,  pure  white  ;  Mrs.  J.  Thompson,  pure  white  ;  Embleme  Poitevine, 
golden  yellow ;  David  Ingamells,  golden  yellow ;  Dr.  Enguelard,  rosy 
pink ;  Caprice  de  Printemps,  rosy  pink ;  A.  J.  Balfour,  pink ;  Winter 
Cheer,  deep  pink  ;  Western  King,  pure  white  ;  Mme.  R.  Oberthur,  pure 
white  ;  Tuxedo,  orange ;  and  Source  d'Or,  orange  and  gold. 


CACTI    FOR   AMATEURS 


THIRTY  or  forty  years  ago,  Cacti  were  far  better  known  than  at  the 
present  time,  though  during  the  last  few  years  a  decided  change  has 
taken  place  in  their  favour.  It  is  hard  to  understand  why  in  so  many 
places  their  cultivation  should  be  ignored,  for  although  they  may  not 
be  "  decorative,"  in  no  other  class  of  plants  do  we  get  such  curious, 
weird,  and  fantastic  stems,  such  wonderful  arrangements  of  spines,  or, 
in  numerous  instances,  such  lovely  flowers.  The  flowers  of  the  night- 
flowering  Cereus  are  powerfully  fragrant,  a  foot  or  more  across,  rich 
in  colour  and  exquisitely  formed,  springing  apparently  from  dried-up 
branches.  In  Phyllocactus  we  get  large,  rich-coloured  flowers  springing 
from  the  sides  of  small  flat  branches,  and  in  Epiphyllum  long,  waxy, 
bright-coloured  flowers  in  such  profusion  as  to  hide  the  branches.  Cactus 
culture  is  a  good  hobby  for  beginners. 

Cultivation. — In  the  first  instance,  though  a  large  house  is  advisable 
for  anything  like  a  complete  collection,  from  the  slow  growth  of  many 
little  room  is  required,  and  large  numbers  may  be  grown  in  a  small 
house ;  or  if  a  house  is  not  to  be  had,  a  considerable  number  may  be 
grown  in  a  cold  frame,  in  a  glass-case  in  a  room  as  ordinary  winter 
plants,  or,  if  a  warm  sunny  position  can  be  found,  a  few  may  even  be 
grown  out  of  doors.  Again,  as  they  are  natives  of  hot,  dry,  desert 
regions,  they  are  not  so  susceptible  to  injury  as  many  other  things  if 
watering  cannot  be  attended  to  regularly,  and  they  occasionally  become 
dry  ;  in  fact,  with  a  few  exceptions,  no  water  at  all  is  required  for  at  least 
six  months  of  the  year.  Then  again,  being  of  slow  growth,  repotting 
is  necessary  only  at  rare  intervals.  Except  in  one  or  two  cases  which 
will  be  mentioned  later,  the  following  method  of  cultivation  will  be 
found  satisfactory:  The  majority  require  a  minimum  winter  tem- 
perature of  from  50  degrees  to  55  degrees,  rising  on  sunny  days  to  60 
degrees.  During  summer  no  shading  should  be  given,  and  the  tempera- 
ture, without  fire  heat,  allowed  to  rise  as  high  as  possible,  giving  a  free 
circulation  of  air.  Throughout  the  growing  season,  from  the  end  of  April 
to  the  end  of  July,  plenty  of  water  will  be  required  at  the  roots,  with 
medium  syringings  overhead  twice  daily.  After  the  later  date,  water 
must  be  gradually  withheld,  none  at  all  being  given  after  the  middle  of 
September  throughout  the  winter.  Repotting  should  only  be  done 
when  the  pots  are  thoroughly  filled  with  roots,  or  when  the  soil  seems 
to  be  in  bad  condition.  In  the  latter  case,  all  old  soil  should  be  washed 
from  the  roots.  April  is  the  best  time  to  repot.  The  compost  should 
have  as  its  principal  part  good  fibrous  loam,  adding  to  every  five  parts 

366 


CACTI   FOR   AMATEURS  367 

one  part  of  sandstone  or  broken  bricks,  crushed  to  the  size  of  a  walnut, 
and  from  that  size  downwards  to  dust.  As  small  pots  as  possible  must 
be  used,  filling  them  nearly  half-full  of  crocks.  Any  plants  that  have 
well  filled  the  pots  with  roots  should  be  assisted  with  occasional  appli- 
cations of  weak  liquid  manure. 

When  it  can  be  managed,  better  results  can  be  obtained  by  forming 
a  rockery  in  the  house,  and  planting  everything  out,  and  too  much  cannot 
be  said  in  praise  of  this  method.  In  this  way  they  grow  much  quicker, 
are  more  at  home,  and  infinitely  more  pleasing  to  the  eye  than  when 
placed  in  rows  of  pots.  Many  are  particularly  well  adapted  for  planting 
in  crevices  between  stones,  and  grow  much  better  in  this  way  than 
in  pots. 

Propagation  may  be  effected  by  means  of  seeds,  cuttings,  or  grafting. 
Seeds  should  be  sown  as  soon  as  received,  and  when  the  tiny  plants  are 
large  enough  to  handle,  prick  them  off  in  a  bed  of  sandy  soil  in  a  sunny 
position  near  the  glass.  Cuttings  should  be  allowed  to  dry  for  several 
days  before  insertion  in  sandy  soil.  Very  little  water  must  be  given 
until  they  are  rooted.  Cuttings  from  an  inch  long  to  several  feet  may 
be  used.  Grafting  is  resorted  to  in  a  few  instances  only,  principally 
with  Epiphyllums  (see  p.  368). 

Insect  pests  are  best  kept  under  by  means  of  fumigating,  and  by  the 
use  of  insecticides.  A  useful  insecticide  is  made  by  mixing  a  quarter  of 
a  pint  of  paraffin  in  four  gallons  of  strong  soft-soap  water.  Mealy  bug 
and  thrips  are  the  two  worst  insects. 

Cacti  that  have  been  injured  during  importation,  or  from  other 
causes,  and  are  beginning  to  rot  should  have  all  decayed  matter  cut  away, 
and  be  painted  with  carbolic  acid  or  Condy's  fluid  several  times,  and  left 
in  a  sunny  position  until  thoroughly  dry.  Afterwards  an  occasional 
dusting  with  charcoal  will  keep  them  right. 

Turning  to  the 

Selection  of  Suitable  Plants,  the  most  worthy  are  found  in  the 
following  genera : — Cereus,  Echinocactus,  Epiphyllum,  Mamillaria, 
Melocactus,  Opuntia,  Pereskia,  Phyllocactus,  and  Rhipsalis.  With  few 
exceptions  they  are  confined  to  South  America  and  the  West  Indies,  the 
headquarters  being  California,  Mexico,  and  Texas.  Of 

Cereus  alone — in  which  the  three  genera,  Echinocereus,  Echinopsis, 
and  Pilocereus,  have  been  merged — nearly  two  hundred  species  are  in 
cultivation.  The  different  species  vary  greatly  in  habit,  some  being  but 
a  few  inches  high,  and  forming  dense  tufts  of  spiny  growths,  others, 
as  in  the  case  of  the  Giant  Cactus  of  California,  making  tall,  massive, 
sometimes  single,  sometimes  branched,  columnar  stems  several  tons  in 
weight.  Another  section — well  represented  by  the  Old  Man  Cactus 
(Cereus  senilis) — makes  tall  stems,  terminated  with  a  large  mass  of  long 
white  hairs ;  while  yet  another  is  well  marked  by  having  long,  thin, 
climbing,  or  scandent  stems.  In  some  instances  the  stems  are  nearly 
round,  and  slightly  angled ;  in  others  they  are  very  deeply  ribbed  or 
angled,  and  in  most  cases  they  are  very  spiny.  The  flowers  are  borne 
from  the  sides  of  the  stems  in  summer,  and  in  many  cases  are  very 


368  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

showy.  Particularly  is  this  the  case  with  a  number  of  climbing  species 
which  are  known  as  "  night-flowering  Cacti."  Of  the  many  species  the 
following  are  all  worth  growing  : 

Climbing,  or  scandent  kinds,  which  usually  flower  in  the  night, 
suitable  for  training  on  a  roof :  C.  grandiflorus,  Lemairii,  Macdonaldice, 
Napoleonis,  rostratus,  and  triangularis.  All  these  produce  flowers  from 
ten  to  thirteen  inches  across,  ranging  in  colour  from  yellow  and  white 
in  the  two  last  named  to  the  same  colours  tinged  with  red  in  the  others. 
In  addition,  the  Rat's-tail  Cactus,  C .  flagelliformis ,  which  flowers  in  the 
day-time,  makes  long,  thin  stems,  which  produce  pretty,  small  pink 
flowers  freely  ;  it  is  an  excellent  basket  plant.  Of  tall,  strong-growing 
species  :  C.  giganteus,  glaucescens,  Jamacarri,  and  Peruvianus  are  useful ; 
the  former,  and  the  two  latter,  have  white  flowers  which  open  during  the 
day.  In  addition,  C.  senilis,  The  Old  Man  Cactus,  is  remarkable  for  its 
long  white  hair ;  although  usually  seen  a  foot  or  so  high,  it  will  grow 
to  a  height  of  ten  feet  or  more. 

Echinocactus  is  characterised  by  short,  thick,  globular,  deeply 
ribbed  stems,  usually  unbranched  and  covered  with  tufts  of  stiff  bristles 
and  stout-hooked  spines.  A  few  of  the  most  conspicuous  of  a  large 
number  of  species  are  :  E.  Lecontei,  with  a  thick,  globular,  angled  stem, 
covered  with  tufts  of  grey  bristles  and  strong  rosy-red  spines,  two  to 
four  and  a  half  inches  long  ;  E.  Wislizeni,  a  large  round  plant,  with  long 
wide,  dull  brown  spines  ;  E.  Grusonii,  a  large,  round  plant,  thickly 
covered  with  bright  yellow  spines;  E.  ingens,  distinct  by  reason  of  its 
almost  round  spines  ;  and  E.  cornigerous,  electr acanthus,  Emoryi,  Hasel- 
bergii,  horizonthalonius ,  and  Pfeifferi. 

Epiphyllum  is  a  family  characterised  by  much  branched,  flat,  short- 
jointed  stems,  the  flowers  being  produced  abundantly  from  the  ends  of 
the  branches  in  November  and  December.  It  requires  a  closer  and 
moister  atmosphere  than  most  Cacti,  and  should  never  be  kept  without 
water.  As  the  several  species  are  found  growing  naturally  on  branches 
and  in  forks  of  trees,  a  lighter  soil  is  necessary  for  them.  They  are 
sometimes  grafted  on  tall  stems  of  Pereskia,  or  they  may  be  grown  in 
baskets  or  on  rafts.  When  on  their  own  roots  a  mixture  of  peat,  char- 
coal, and  sand  is  suitable.  In  a  moist  warm  house,  grafted  plants  can 
be  grown  six  feet  high,  several  feet  through,  and  thoroughly  clothed  with 
branches  from  the  pot  upwards.  The  flowers  are  bright  coloured,  thick 
and  fleshy,  and  somewhat  resemble  in  shape  those  of  a  Salvia.  E. 
Gcertneri,  with  scarlet  flowers,  E.  mssellianus,  with  rose  flowers,  and  E. 
truncatum,  with  red  blossoms,  are  showy  species.  Of  the  latter,  a  large 
number  of  garden  forms  are  in  cultivation,  varying  in  colour  from  purple, 
rose,  and  salmon,  to  white. 

Mamillaria. — This  genus  is  characterised  by  having  intensely  spiny 
stems,  and  by  having  the  whole  stem  covered  with  small  bulb-like 
tubercles.  Between  the  different  species  there  is  a  wide  variation  in 
habit.  Almost  all  are  of  small  stature,  some  making  a  cluster  of  small 


V:      f  -• 


CACTI   FOR   AMATEURS  369 

stems  an  inch  or  two  high,  others  making  stems  a  foot  or  more  high 
which  rarely  branch,  while  another  set  form  round  thick  stems,  three  or 
four  inches  high,  and  of  the  same  diameter.  Of  the  taller  ones,  M, 
sulphurea,  covered  with  soft  yellow  spines ;  spinosissima,  var.  brunea. 
with  similar  white  spines  ;  pyramidalis  and  flavispina  with  yellow  ;  and 
M.  fuscata,  with  grey  spines,  are  the  best.  Of  the  short  globular  set, 
M.  dolicho  centra,  Nicholsonii,  mutabilis,  bicolor,  and  rutila  are  useful, 
while  of  dwarf  much  branched  plants,  M .  stellaris,  elongata,  stellata,  var. 
aurata,  pulchella,  densa,  tenuis,  and  elongata  make  pretty  plants.  The 
flowers  of  this  genus  are  borne  from  near  the  apex  of  the  stem,  and  are 
often  bright  coloured.  Melocactus  is  characterised  by  a  thick,  short, 
Echinocactus-like  stem,  but  the  flowers  are  produced  in  a  large  cup-like 
head,  which  continues  to  increase  in  size  for  many  years.  The  Turk's 
Cap  Cactus  (Melocactus  communis),  a  West  Indian  plant,  makes  a  large 
head  of  red  flowers,  shaped  like  a  Turk's  cap,  hence  its  name.  It  is  the 
best  representative  of  the  few  cultivated  species. 

Opuntia  is  known  by  its  many-jointed  stems,  the  portions  between 
the  joints  being  flat  and  wide,  or  in  a  few  instances  cylindrical.  The 
flowers  are  produced  from  the  edges  of  the  stems.  The  fruit  is  pear- 
shaped,  and  in  some  species  edible,  known  as  Indian  figs  and  prickly 
pears.  A  very  large  number  of  species  are  grown,  some  of  the  most 
distinct  being  0.  arborescens,  aurantiaca,  candelabriformis,  cylindrica, 
decumana,  ferox,  Ficus-indica,  glaucophylla,  grandis,  leucotricha,  nigri- 
cans,  and  Dillenii. 

Pereskia  is  a  climbing  genus,  very  distinct  by  reason  of  its  leafy 
stems  and  terminal  panicles  of  flowers.  P.  aculeata  and  P.  Bleo  are  the 
best  known.  They  are  often  used  as  stocks  for  Epiphyllums,  either  as 
standards  or  trained  on  a  roof  with  tufts  of  Epiphyllum  inserted  here 
and  there.  For  a  small  house  they  are  not  serviceable  plants,  being  very 
strong  growers. 

Phyllocactus. — A  group  of  showy-flowered  plants,  having  flattened 
jointed  stems,  from  the  edges  of  which  the  flowers  are  borne.  The 
flowers  are  usually  brilliantly  coloured,  six  to  eight  inches  across,  with 
long,  thin  tubes.  A  mixture  of  loam,  peat,  and  rotten  manure,  with 
plenty  of  sand,  makes  a  suitable  compost,  and  during  the  growing  season 
a  warm  moist  house  is  to  be  recommended.  The  plants  should  be  kept 
on  the  dry  side  in  winter,  but  not  thoroughly  dried  off.  A  number  of 
species  are  in  cultivation,  among  the  best  being  P.  biformis,  crenatus, 
grandis,  latifrons,  and  phyllanthoides.  A  large  number  of  garden  hybrids 
are  in  cultivation,  exhibiting  a  very  wide  range  of  colour. 

Rhipsalis. — This  family  has  round  thin  stems,  or  flattened  Phyllo- 
cactus-like  stems,  small  inconspicuous  flowers,  and  mistletoe-like  fruit, 
which  is  the  chief  attraction.  R.  Cassytha,  with  numerous  white  berries, 
is  one  of  the  best.  It  makes  a  handsome  basket  plant,  and  should  be 
grown  like  an  Epiphyllum. 

2  A 


370  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

HARDY  CACTI 

The  strange  and  picturesque  hardy  Cacti  are  arousing  in- 
terest, and  in  many  English  gardens  they  have  a  little  garden 
to  themselves,  a  "  Cacti  "  garden,  interesting  at  all  times  and  a 
blaze  of  colour  when  the  flowers  of  the  various  Cacti  are  in 
full  beauty.  Since  the  high  regions  of  the  Western  and 
Southern  States  of  North  America  have  been  more  thoroughly 
explored  quite  a  number  of  true  Alpine  Cacti  have  been  dis- 
covered, some  of  them  being  already  in  English  gardens. 
The  only  difficulty  in  the  way  of  successful  culture  here  is 
the  extremely  damp  climate  in  winter.  Early  spring  is  the 
best  time  for  planting,  choosing  either  a  sunny,  well-drained 
border,  rock-garden,  bank,  or  wall,  in  a  mixture  of  soil  con- 
sisting principally  of  bits  of  porous  stone,  sand,  gravel,  or 
broken  bricks  and  loam.  The  Mamillarias,  Cereus,  and 
Echinocactus  should  be  protected  with  pieces  of  glass  during 
the  winter  to  keep  them  dry ;  this  prevents  rot  through 
damp.  The 

Opuntias  are  the  commonest  and  best  known  of  hardy 
Cacti,  and  the  following  are  the  most  familiar  of  the  family  : 
O.  vulgaris  is  a  prostrate  plant  with  jointed  stems,  and  minute 
leaves  with  bristly  axils  and  sometimes  spines.  The  flowers 
are  imbricated  and  rose-coloured,  whilst  the  fruit  consists  of  an 
edible  berry.  This  Opuntia  is  common  over  the  extreme 
south  of  Europe,  save  the  sea  coast,  and  grows  in  rocky  or 
sandy  soil.  This  and  other  allied  species  of  Opuntia  are 
favourite  plants  for  groups  in  the  southern  parts  of  France  and 
over  the  greater  part  of  Italy  and  Spain,  especially  as  they  need 
little  more  than  planting  and  keeping  in  order  ;  they  flower  in 
early  summer.  0.  Rafinesquii  is  larger  and  taller.  This  is  a 
well-known  Opuntia,  and  is  probably  the  most  popular  of  all. 
It  has  large  joints  and  larger  flowers  than  those  of  O.  vulgaris, 
whilst  the  centre  is  reddish  coloured.  This  also  flowers  in 
summer,  and  is  a  native  of  Italy.  O.  missouriensis  has  broad 
obovate  joints  and  small  leaves,  with  tufts  of  spines  and  bristles 
upon  the  axils.  The  pale  green  flowers  appear  during  early 
summer,  and,  like  the  former,  a  dry  and  sandy  soil  and  sun- 
shine are  essential.  O.  Engelmanni  is  more  bushy,  and  has 
branched  stems  with  obovate  joints  from  six  inches  to  eighteen 
inches  in  length  furnished  with  bundles  of  spines.  The  pretty 
bright  yellow  flowers  are  about  four  inches  across.  This  comes 
from  the  Western  States  of  North  America,  and  flowers  during 
early  summer.  O.  pulchella  is  quite  dwarf,  with  slender  joints, 


HARDY   CACTI  371 

numerous  spines,  and  bright  purple  handsome  flowers.  It  is 
one  of  the  most  distinct  and  desirable  of  the  Alpine  Opuntias, 
and  thrives  best  in  poor  sandy  soil.  O.  echinocarpa,  although 
without  showy  flowers,  which  are  of  a  quiet  greenish  yellow, 
is  sufficiently  attractive  for  the  Cacti  garden  through  its  silky 
white  centred  spines.  It  is  about  a  foot  high,  and  comes  from 
the  plains  and  mountains  of  Colorado  and  Arizona.  None  of 
the  Opuntias  suffer  from  drought,  but  succumb  in  winter  to 
the  damp  unless  covered  with  glass. 

Cereus. — This  family  is  quite  distinct  from  the  Opuntia, 
the  succulent  plants  being  usually  columnar,  short  or  tall, 
often  ribbed  or  angled,  with  bundles  of  spines  or  bristles  on 
the  ribs.  The  flowers  usually  open  in  sunlight,  but  close 
when  the  weather  is  dull.  O.  Engelmanni  is  one  of  the  best 
known.  It  has  white  spines  and  large,  handsome,  deep  purple 
flowers  in  June,  whilst  it  is  found  in  the  Western  States  of 
North  America.  C.  Emoryi  is  cylindrical,  with  straight  yellow 
spines  and  clusters  of  flowers  on  one  side  of  the  tip  of 
the  stems. 

Mamillaria. — This  group  is  distinguished  by  succulent  glo- 
bose stems  and  small  flowers.  M.  arizonica  has  large  and 
showy  deep  rose-coloured  flowers.  It  has  long  and  straight 
spines,  the  exterior  ones  white  and  the  few  inner  ones  deep 
brown.  M.  setispina  has  white  spines  and  rose-coloured 
flowers. 

Echinocactus  cylindraceus  is  a  handsome  Cactus  with  red- 
dish spines  and  small  greenish-coloured  flowers.  This  group 
is  quite  as  easily  managed  as  any  of  the  others,  but  dislikes 
winter  damp. 

Echinocereus  group  greatly  resembles  the  Cereus  and  the 
Echinocactus ;  in  fact,  there  is  only  a  thin  line  between  the 
two  families.  One  of  the  best  known  is  E.  Fendleri,  which  has 
large  magenta-red  flowers. 


PART    III 


SOILS   AND   THEIR   TREATMENT 


IT  is  by  no  means  essential  that  a  gardener  should  possess 
scientific  or  chemical  knowledge  of  the  constituents  or  com- 
position of  the  soil  of  his  garden.  Many  good  cultivators 
never  have  possessed  such  knowledge,  yet  have  obtained 
splendid  crops.  It  is  not  our  purpose  in  this  chapter  on 
soils  to  enter  into  any  scientific  disquisition  on  their  com- 
position, as  it  is  outside  the  scope  of  a  beginner's  book. 
Would-be  cultivators  of  the  soil — in  other  words,  gardeners — 
soon  find  that,  whilst  scientific  knowledge  of  soil  composts 
may  be  of  some  value  to  them,  greater  value  is  derived  from 
sound  information  relating  to  cultivation  and  cropping,  and 
this  it  is  our  intention  to  furnish. 

Soils  are  of  very  light,  porous,  sandy  material ;  of  a  com- 
bination of  stone-brash  or  gravel  with  loam — which  is,  by  the 
by,  a  term  applied  to  soils  that  have  clay  and  sand  in  about 
equal  proportions  ;  of  chalk,  which  is  abundant  in  various 
localities,  and  if  for  a  time  thin  and  poor  becomes  eventually, 
with  good  tilling,  very  fertile ;  and  finally  clay,  a  descrip- 
tion of  soil  in  which  sand  is  materially  absent,  is  very  close, 
almost  impervious  to  moisture  or  air,  and,  if  retentive  of 
moisture  when  wetted,  yet  has  the  reverse  demerit  of  drying 
intensely  hard  and  becoming  difficult  to  work  or  crop  in  hot 
dry  seasons.  Whatever  description  of  soil  it  may  be  the 
cultivator's  lot  to  till,  it  is  obvious  that  his  aim  must  be  to 
endeavour  to  associate  retentive  matter  in  the  form  of  clay 
with  soils  that  are  very  light,  sandy,  gravelly,  or  porous,  and 
that  quickly  part  with  moisture  and  become  unduly  dry  under 
the  influence  of  sun  or  wind.  The  application  of  sand  or 
of  any  light  porous  mineral  or  vegetable  matter  to  clay  soils 
tends  to  the  same  ends.  But  every  gardener  finds  that  in 
time  deep  working,  such  as  trenching  ground  presents,  allied 
to  the  introduction  of  vegetable  or  animal  matter  in  a  state 
of  semi-decay,  does  great  good  to  all  descriptions  of  soils 
Deep  culture  is  often  effective  as  drainage,  allowing  surplus 
moisture  to  escape  and  enabling  the  air  to  permeate  the  soil, 
purifying  and  sweetening  it  and  causing  it  to  become  fertile. 

375 


376 


GARDENING   FOR  BEGINNERS 


It  cannot  be  too  clearly  understood,  that  soil  which  is  at  all 
waterlogged  or  retains  water  unduly  never  can  be  sweet  or 
fertile.  It  may  produce  coarse  weeds  freely,  but  never  good 
garden  crops.  Wherever  water  is  retained  air  is  excluded, 
and  mineral  or  other  plant  foods  or  crop  manures  are  washed 

away  and  destroyed.  Thus  whilst 
the  majority  of  soils  may  need 
no  special  drainage,  porous  pipe 
drains,  laid  in  from  2  feet  to  3 
feet  deep  into  the  ground  at  from 
25  feet  to  30  feet  apart,  leading 
to  some  ditch  or  stream  for  out- 
fall, serve  a  valuable  purpose. 
When  these  pipe  drains  are  laid 
down  in  narrow  excavations, 
some  woody  material — heather, 
gorse,  or  hedge  trimmings — 
should  be  laid  over  them  before 
the  soil  is  filled  in.  This  will 
prevent  the  drains  from  becom- 
ing clogged.  Where  pipes  are 


FIG.  21. — Deep  or  Pipe  Drain. 


not  used,  rough  rubble  of  any  description  will  suffice  if  some 
6  inches  to  8  inches  thick.  Still  this  is  work  that  is  needed 
only  when  water  gives  much  trouble  in  gardens.  When  soil 
suffers  only  from  exceptional  floodings  through  being  near 
to  streams  or  from  very  heavy  storms,  it  is  well  to  keep  open, 
on  the  surface,  drains  12  inches  wide  and  10  inches  deep,  as 
these  greatly  facilitate  the  re- 
moval of  the  water.  But  all  ex- 
perience goes  to  prove  that 

Trenching  ground  from  20 
inches  to  30  inches  deep,  ac- 
cording to  conditions,  is  produc- 
tive of  immense  good,  even  in 
relation  to  drainage.  It  fre- 
quently happens  that  just  be- 
neath the  top  twelve  inches  of 
soil  there  is  a  hard  pan  of  some 
almost  impervious  material, 

which  has  never  been  broken  up.  This,  if  of  stone  or  rock, 
is  best  removed  absolutely,  but  if  it  be  of  any  softer  material, 
such  as  can  be  broken  well,  it  is  best  in  the  process  of  trenching 
to  break  it  up  thoroughly,  some  10  inches  to  12  inches  deep, 
and  leave  it  lying  where  found  before  the  upper  porous  soil 
is  replaced.  Such  impervious  subsoils  in  time  become  loose, 


FIG.  22. — Shallow  Rubble  Drain. 


SOILS  AND   THEIR  TREATMENT 


377 


porous,  and  fertile.  Air  sweetens  and  crumbles  them.  Appli- 
cations of  manure  render  them  capable  of  supplying  plant 
food.  They  serve  also  to  assist  crops  in  dry  weather  in  find- 
ing root  room  and  moisture ;  they  enable  heavy  surface  rains 
to  pass  away  freely ;  and  as  air  always  follows  the  retreating 
moisture,  these  once  useless,  worthless  subsoils  in  time 
become  of  the  most  valuable  description.  There  seems  to 
be  absolutely  no  description  of  subsoil  that  cannot  in  this 
way  be  made  fertile.  A  most  important  product  of  deep 
working  or  trenching  ground  is  that,  not  only  does  it  tend 
in  winter  to  keep  the  soil  in  which  crops  may  be  growing 
drier  than  shallow  soils  do,  but  is  also  much  warmer.  In  the 
summer,  when  drought  so  commonly  prevails,  the  deep 


Shows  a  deep  or  vertical  section  of  deep  trenching 
after  the  ground  has  been  previously  well  worked. 
Both  top  and  bottom  spits  of  12  inches  of  soil,  A 
and  B,  are  thrown  out,  and  the  hard  bottom  soil,  C, 
is  forked  and  broken  up  12  inches  deep.  The  en- 
tire body  of  2  feet  of  soil  from  the  next  trench,  D, 
is  thrown  out,  and  so  on  throughout  the  plot. 


working  enables  the  roots  of  crops  to  go  so  much  deeper, 
where  the  soil  is  at  once  cooler  and  moister,  and  thus  con- 
tinue productive  much  longer.  Remarkable  illustrations  of 
the  differences  found  in  crops  grown  on  deeply-worked  and 
shallow-dry  soils  are  often  seen  on  groups  of  allotments, 
where  the  soil  is  quite  of  the  same  nature  or  texture.  In  the 
first  case  the  crops  are  robust  and  luxuriant ;  in  the  latter 
they  are  poor,  soon  ceasing  to  be  productive. 

Operations. — The  process  of  trenching  is  simple  enough, 
but  should  be  invariably  performed  during  the  winter  months, 
on  plots  that  are  for  the  time  uncropped,  and  have  not  been 
deeply  worked  previously  or  for  several  years.  In  good 
class  gardens  the  work  is  done  about  every  third  year,  but 
if  done  in  gardens  where  labour  is  less  abundant  it  is 
carried  out  once  in  from  four  to  five  years.  The  first  effort 
of  the  cultivator  in  trenching  where  soils  have  not  been  so 


378 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


previously  treated,  is  to  do  so  in  such  a  way  that  the  lower  or 
subsoil  is  not  brought  to  the  surface.  This  is  described  as 
half  or  bastard  trenching.  Were  the  lower  sour  soils  brought 
to  the  surface  at  once  crops  would  fail  or  growth  be  very  poor 
in  consequence.  For  that  reason  the  cultivator  not  only  leaves 
these  subsoils  where  found  for  some  time,  but  as  they  become 
sweet  and  fertile  gradually  mixes  or  incorporates  them  with 
the  upper  good  soil,  so  that  in  time  the  entire  worked  depth 
is  sweet  and  productive.  After  several  years  of  such  treatment 
trenching  may  take  a  complete  form,  the  lower  soil  being 


FIG.  24. 

A  surface  example  of  how  to  trench  a  plot  of  ground.  Open  a  trench  2  feet  wide  at  the 
left-hand  end  of  one-half,  as  shown  at  A,  placing  the  soil  at  B.  Then  trench  the 
whole  strip  as  marked,  returning  on  the  other  half,  D.  Finish  where  soil,  B,  from 
the  first  trench  has  been  placed  for  the  purpose  of  filling. 

brought  to  the  surface  and  the  top  soil  buried  low  down,  but 
being  in  its  turn  brought  up  again  some  three  years  later. 

In  Half  Trenching  a  plot  of  ground ,  if  broad,  the  operator 
must  start  by  dividing  it  into  two  equal  portions,  running  a 
mark  down  the  centre  to  form  a  division,  then  throwing 
out  at  one  end  of  one  of  the  halves  as  shown  at  A  the  whole 
of  the  top  soil  down  to  a  depth  of  twelve  inches  and  width  of 
twenty-four  inches  on  to  the  adjoining  soil  B.  With  a  strong 
fork  thoroughly  break  up  the  bottom  soil  at  A  fully  twelve 
inches  deep,  and  leave  it  there.  It  is  an  admirable  plan 
when  manure  is  at  hand  to  cast  in  on  to  this  broken  bottom 
a  liberal  dressing  and  refork  that  into  the  soil.  Then  from 
the  next  width  of  two  feet  C  throw  on  to  the  first  trench  A 
the  whole  top  soil,  twelve  inches  deep,  and  the  first  trench  is 


SOILS  AND   THEIR   TREATMENT         379 

filled  and  complete.  Keep  on  repeating  this  trenching  process 
until  the  entire  half  of  the  plot  is  done.  Then  open  a  trench 
of  the  same  width  and  depth  at  that  end  of  the  other  half  D, 
using  the  soil  taken  out  to  fill  up  the  end  trench  of  the  first 
half,  and  that  portion  is  completed.  Then  the  process  has 
to  be  repeated  with  the  second  half  until  that  also  is  done. 

Trenching  is  laborious  work,  but  always  pays  well  for  its 
performance,  therefore  great  care  should  always  be  taken 
that  the  whole  of  the  soil  be  worked  deep  and  equally.  If  the 
surface  soil  after  trenching  needs  a  manure  dressing  get  it 
on  with  a  barrow,  putting  down  planks  on  which  to  wheel. 
Then  spread  the  manure  and  well  fork  it  in,  and  the  plot  will 
then  be  in  first-rate  condition  for  cropping  in  the  spring.  In 

Complete  trenching  it  is  needful  to  throw  out  from  the 
first  trench  the  entire  depth  of  two  feet  of  soil  and  of  that 
width.  The  bottom  should  then  be  deeply  forked  up  and  the 
whole  of  the  soil  from  the  next  trench  of  same  width  and 
depth  cast  into  it.  That  process  naturally  brings  the  lower 
soil  to  the  surface,  but  it  may  be  practised  with  the  best 
results  when  the  whole  body  of  soil  has  become  thoroughly 
sweetened. 

Digging  ground,  whether  with  spade  or  fork,  is  a  simpler 
process,  and  is  practised  on  all  plots  of  soil  not  trenched  and 
between  each  kind  of  crop.  Light  steel  spades  or  forks 
enable  this  work  to  be  done  without  rendering  the  labour 
exhausting.  But  to  move  the  soil  as  deep  as  possible,  say 
twelve  inches,  the  tool  blade  or  tines  should  be  new  and  long. 
Digging  necessitates  opening  at  one  end  of  a  piece  of  ground 
a  trench  twelve  inches  wide  and  deep,  and  casting  it  out 
ready  to  fill  the  trench  left  when  the  second  half  of  the  plot 
is  done,  if  the  plot  be  so  divided  as  suggested  for  trenching. 
If  the  whole  piece  of  ground  be  dug  from  one  end  to  the 
other,  then  the  whole  of  the  soil  from  the  trench  must  be 
wheeled  in  a  barrow  to  the  end  where  the  digging  is  con- 
cluded for  filling  the  trench.  The  tools  should  be  kept 
upright,  and  with  the  foot  sent  down  into  the  soil  to  their 
full  length  so  that  the  movement  of  the  ground  may  be  as 
deep  as  possible.  In  digging,  also,  the  soil  should  be  kept 
quite  even  and  level,  as  that  shows  good  work. 

Forking  is  moving  the  soil  a  few  inches  in  depth  as  amidst 
growing  crops,  where  it  has  become  too  hard  or  is  weedy, 
or  the  weeds  need  burying,  or  amongst  flower  beds  or 
borders.  This  work,  if  done  with  care,  so  that  crop  roots 
be  not  disturbed,  does  much  good  as  well  as  renders  the  soil 
porous,  loose,  and  neat. 


380  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

Hoeing  produces  similar  results,  and  is  admirable  spring 
and  summer  work.  It  is  chiefly  performed  to  destroy  summer 
weeds,  but  in  every  case  as  soon  as  seeds,  crops,  or  plants 
generally  have  made  visible  growth,  the  hoe  should  be  freely 
used  about  and  amongst  them,  as  it  is  of  great  importance 
to  keep  a  loose,  light,  and,  of  course,  clean  surface  of  soil, 
as  in  such  case  the  soil  beneath  dries  far  less  rapidly  than  is 
the  case  when  left  unhoed.  Hoeing  is  most  valuable  summer 
soil  culture,  and  should  be  constantly  performed. 


MANURING 

This  term  simply  means  that  plants,  like  animals,  have  to 
be  fed.  But  whilst  animals  partake  of  food  through  their 
mouths,  plants  do  so  through  their  roots.  The  soil  is  their 
dining-room,  and  it  is  a  good  one  when  it  contains  plenty  of 
plant  food.  All  plants  have  more  or  less  similar  methods 
of  taking  up  food.  They  have  on  their  roots,  and  generally 
on  their  smaller  or  fibrous  roots,  minute  hairs,  and  these  have 
throats  or  hollow  trunks  through  which  they  absorb  in  liquid 
form  the  foods  or  manures  put  into  the  soil  for  plants 
to  exist  on.  We  know,  too,  by  experience  and  observation, 
how  beneficial  manure  is  to  crops.  Who  walking  over  a 
meadow  has  not  noticed  that  where  animal  excrement  has 
fallen  there  the  grass  becomes  strong  and  vigorous.  The 
same  may  be  seen  in  a  field  of  corn,  or  where  manure  shot 
down  from  a  cart  has  remained  a  few  weeks  before  being 
spread,  as  that  particular  spot  always  produces  the  strongest 
corn.  In  the  garden  we  have  found,  by  adding  to  the  soil 
manure  from  stables,  cow-sheds,  pig-styes,  or  fowl-houses, 
or  any  decayed  vegetable  matter,  such  as  leaves,  or  of  soot 
or  salt,  that  vegetation  is  always  more  robust  than  where 
no  such  dressing  is  given.  Observation  has  shown  that  to 
have  good  crops  we  must  supply  plants  with  manures,  or,  to 
use  the  proper  term,  plant  foods.  Then  all  these  manures, 
no  matter  whether  they  be  of  animal,  or  vegetable  such  as 
rotten  leaves  or  guano,  or  mineral  such  as  nitrate  of  soda, 
kainit,  salt,  &c.,  must  be  easy  to  dissolve  when  brought  into 
contact  with  the  moisture  of  the  air  and  earth.  Thus  there 
are  what  are  termed  soluble  manures — that  is,  those  which 
soon  or  in  a  few  months  become  dissolved.  Insoluble 
manures  are  such  as  bones  in  an  unbroken  state,  yet  bones 
broken  up  fine  or  steamed  soft  become  first-rate  plant  food. 

Plants  cannot  eat  or  use  the  soil  as  food,  as  that  is  purely 


MANURING  381 

mineral  and  insoluble,  but  they  do  live  on  the  soluble  ele- 
ments found  in  soils,  and  as  a  rule,  especially  in  gardens,  these 
must  be  put  there  by  the  gardener.  Scientifically  we  know 
that  all  plants  are  formed,  more  or  less  according  to  their 
nature,  of  three  primary  elements — phosphate,  potash,  and 
nitrogen,  with  a  few  others.  And  these  things  in  manuring 
we  seek  to  supply  to  the  soil  in  some  form  or  another  :  thus 
all  vegetable  matter  when  changed  into  manure,  through 
animal  consumption  or  when  in  a  state  of  decay,  gives  back 
to  the  soil  what  originally  came  from  it ;  also  all  leafage 
abstracts  from  the  air  certain  gases  which  are  utilised  by  the 
plant,  and  become  plant  food  also.  So  that,  were  a  crop 
of  something  green  dug  into  the  ground  as  a  manure  dressing, 
it  always  gives  back  to  the  soil  in  that  way  more  than  came 
from  it.  Thus  green  crops  of  Tares,  Peas,  Barley,  Oats,  or 
similar  green  plants,  dug  in,  always  greatly  fertilise  the  soil. 
Primarily  our  manure  supply  is  found  in  what  animals  furnish 
with  the  aid,  too,  of  straw  or  moss-litter.  As  this  is  collected 
from  stables,  cow-sheds,  and  pig-sties  it  should  be  put  into  a 
neat  heap,  and  be  turned  twice  at  intervals  of  two  weeks  before 
putting  it  on  the  soil.  When  applied  quite  fresh  it  is  apt  to 
be  too  crude,  and  when  allowed  to  remain  lying  about  and  to 
ferment,  or  be  washed  by  rain,  runs  to  waste.  Care  in  this 
matter  is  always  well  repaid. 

Animal  Manures  may  be  applied  to  soil  at  any  convenient 
time,  but  should  always  be  in  a  half-decayed  moist  condition. 
Dry  straw  manures  are  of  little  good,  as  plants  find  nothing 
to  utilise  in  them.  Generally  the  best  time  to  dress  land  is  in 
the  autumn  and  winter,  and  on  wet  soil ;  it  is  a  good  plan  to 
take  advantage  of  hard  frost  for  wheeling  manure  over  paths 
and  soil.  As  to  quantity  of  such  manure,  a  couple  of  wheel- 
barrow loads  commonly  suffice  for  a  rod  of  ground.  Still, 
much  depends  on  the  nature  of  the  manure  and  soil. 

Artificial,  or  Chemical  Manures,  so  called,  being  chiefly  of  a 
dry  or  powdery  form  and  having  their  food  properties  highly 
concentrated,  are,  relative  to  animal  manures,  much  more 
costly.  But  if  good,  that  is,  if  they  contain  a  high  percentage 
of  one  or  more  of  the  elements  phosphate,  potash,  or  nitrogen, 
they  are  not  expensive,  because  used  in  comparatively  small 
quantities.  Thus,  if  two  barrowfuls  of  animal  manure  are 
needful  for  a  rod  of  ground,  a  dressing  of  about  6  Ib.  of 
any  good  chemical  manure  is  ample  for  the  same  area. 
Chemical  manures  comprise  phosphate,  made  from  softened 
bones,  or  the  powder  known  as  basic  slag.  This  phosphate 
makes  hard  woody  material  in  plants,  just  as  it  makes  bone 


382  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

in  animals.  Then  potash  comes  from  kainit  and  other  salts 
dug  from  the  earth.  That  again  helps  to  make  tissue,  fruits, 
and  seeds.  Nitrogen  comes  from  nitrate  of  soda,  or  a  salt 
found  in  the  veins  of  the  earth,  sulphate  of  ammonia,  obtained 
in  the  making  of  coal  gas,  and  from  soot  and  other  things.  This 
nitrogen  specially  creates  leaves  and  soft  stems.  The  best  way 
to  obtain  these  manures  is  to  purchase  each  one  in  a  raw  state 
from  the  merchants,  and  mix  them  to  form  what  is  called  a 
complete  manure,  in  this  proportion :  Phosphate,  4  Ib. ; 
kainit,  2  Ib. ;  and  nitrate,  2  Ib.  Generally  the  rule  is  to 
mix  the  two  first  only,  and  apply  them  when  soil  is  dug  or 
forked  over  in  the  winter,  adding  the  nitrate  after  the  crop 
has  made  some  growth,  and  hoeing  it  in  immediately. 

Liming  Soil. — During  recent  years  a  great  deal  of  attention 
has  been  given  to  applying  lime  to  the  soil.  It  is  undoubtedly 
one  of  the  most  important  substances  for  rendering  soil  fertile. 
Although  it  contains  but  little  actual  plant  food  it  exerts  a 
chemical  action  on  the  soil  and  vegetable  matter  contained 
therein,  and  releases,  or  renders  soluble,  much  plant  food 
that  would  otherwise  be  lost.  If  ground  is  heavily  manured 
with  animal  manures  year  after  year  it  becomes  what  is 
known  as  "  sick,"  a  condition  that  is  quickly  remedied  by  the 
application  of  lime.  Generally  speaking,  lime  is  best  dug  into 
the  soil  when  the  latter  is  free  of  crops,  using  freshly  slacked 
lime  at  the  rate  of  \  bushel  to  each  square  rod  of  ground. 
Where  permanent  crops  exist  the  lime  should  be  dug  in 
whilst  the  plants,  trees,  or  shrubs  are  at  rest.  A  word  of 
warning  is  necessary  at  this  juncture.  Lime  must  not  be 
applied  to  soil  in  which  it  is  intended  to  grow  Heaths,  Rhodo- 
dendrons, and  similar  plants  that  like  peaty  soil. 

Soot  may  be  beneficially  applied  to  land  or  crops  at  almost 
any  time,  sufficient  to  make  the  surface  fairly  black  being  a 
suitable  dressing. 

Liquid  Manures. — Plants  can  always  utilise  liquid  manures 
the  moment  applied,  because  the  foods  are  soluble.  They 
are  especially  valuable  for  plants  in  pots  or  other  restricted 
areas  where  food  is  limited.  But  they  are  all  the  same  of 
the  greatest  benefit  when  applied  to  trees,  shrubs,  roses, 
fruits,  vegetables,  and  flowers  of  nearly  every  description. 
A  pound  of  guano,  soaked  in  six  gallons  of  water,  or  a 
peck  of  good  horse  droppings,  or  fowls'  manure,  put  into  a 
bag,  or  half  a  peck  of  soot,  all  similarly  treated,  make  good 
liquid  manure.  A  useful  zinc  pail  with  perforated  sides 
is  now  on  the  market  for  holding  the  manure,  which  is  placed 
in  the  tub,  and  is  much  cleaner  to  use  than  a  sack.  House 


MANURING  383 

sewage  is  good  applied  to  coarse  vegetables  or  trees.  The 
drainings  of  farmyards,  stables,  &c.,  with  three  times  the 
quantity  of  water  added,  make  good  liquid  manure  also. 
Still  these  liquids  should  not  be  applied  too  freely ;  a  water- 
ing with  them  once  a  week  suffices  for  most  growing  plants. 

In  gardens  it  is  an  excellent  plan  to  have  a  large  tub 
that  can  be  used  for  the  making  of  liquid  manure  of  any 
description  standing  in  some  out-of-the-way  corner.  When 
the  liquid  is  used  daily,  though  not  to  the  same  crop  or  plant, 
no  unpleasant  smell  is  emitted.  When  not  in  use  an  old 
sack  or  mat  may  be  thrown  over  the  tub. 


THE  STERILISATION  OF  SOIL 


DURING  recent  years  a  good  deal  of  attention  has  been  given 
to  the  sterilisation  of  soil,  particularly  that  used  for  borders 
in  greenhouses,  where  the  removal  of  the  old  soil  and  replac- 
ing it  with  new  is  necessarily  a  lengthy  and  expensive 
operation. 

Partial  sterilisation  of  the  soil  is  an  efficient  means  of 
dealing  with  several  pests  that  live  in  it,  eelworms  in  par- 
ticular, and  it  has  the  further  curious  effect  of  first  delay- 
ing growth  for  a  very  short  time,  then  hastening  it,  so  that 
plants  put  into  such  soil  quickly  overtake  those  put  into 
similar  but  untreated  soil.  The  cause  of  this  appears  to  be 
as  follows  :  Most  of  the  bacteria  are  killed,  but  not  all.  The 
minute  animals  that  prey  upon  the  bacteria  are  also  killed,  as 
well  as  eelworms  and  so  on.  The  bacteria  that  remain  are  able 
to  grow  at  a  rate  far  exceeding  that  of  those  in  soil  where  their 
animal  enemies  abound,  and  in  growing  they  produce  from 
the  decaying  matter  which  forms  their  food  a  correspondingly 
greater  amount  of  ammonia.  Plants,  therefore,  in  this  partially 
sterilised  soil  have  greater  stores  of  ammonia  at  their  disposal 
than  those  in  untreated  soil,  and  are  consequently-able  to  grow 
more  rapidly.  Other  advantages  are  the  prevention  of  the 
growth  of  moss  on  seed-pans  and  the  destruction  of  weed 
seeds.  By  far  the  most  efficient  method  of  effecting  partial 
sterilisation  is  by  heat.  Other  methods  not  so  efficient,  but 
able  to  be  applied  under  certain  circumstances,  are  flooding, 
drying  out,  and  the  use  of  chemicals. 

Heating  by  Steam. — The  most  effective  way  of  heating  is 
by  the  application  of  steam.  Dry  heat  apparently  occasionally 
causes  undesirable  changes,  which  check  growth  to  a  very 
great  extent ;  but  probably  this  is  most  marked  when  a  high 
temperature  is  reached.  As  a  rule,  if  a  soil  mass  can  be 
heated  to  180°  Fahr.,  that  is  sufficient  to  ensure  most  of  the 
benefits  of  partial  sterilisation.  It  is  obvious  that  heat  such 
as  is  required  cannot  be  applied  on  a  large  scale  outdoors, 
but  on  a  small  scale  it  may  be  easily  managed.  Taking  steam 
first,  we  may  have  a  box  or  tank  made  with  pipes  perforated 

384 


THE   STERILISATION   OF  SOIL  385 

at  intervals  running  along  the  bottom,  and  after  putting  the 
soil  to  be  treated  into  it  and  covering  over  with  a  canvas 
cloth,  we  may  drive  steam  from  a  boiler  through  it.  If  this 
method  be  adopted  (as  is  done  in  several  commercial  growers' 
places  now),  pressure  of  60  Ib.  to  80  Ib.  to  the  square  inch  is 
required.  A  modification  of  this  method  is  in  use  in  green- 
houses, where  a  movable  frame  of  perforated  pipes  is  laid  so 
as  to  cover  half  a  bed,  and  soil  from  the  other  half  is  thrown 
over  it  and  covered  with  canvas.  The  steam  is  then  driven 
through  and  the  temperature  raised  to  the  required  degree. 
The  frame  can  then  be  moved  on,  and  so  the  whole  house 
may  be  treated  a  piece  at  a  time. 

Baking  the  Soil. — Where  steam-heat  cannot  be  obtained, 
baking  the  soil  may  be  resorted  to  ;  but  this  should  not  be 
done  to  such  an  extent  that  the  soil  becomes  charred.  Several 
methods  besides  the  use  of  the  kitchen  oven  are  in  vogue. 
Heating  the  soil  on  a  shovel  over  a  fire,  thrusting  red-hot  iron 
plates  or  even  hot  bricks  into  the  soil  heap,  may  be  practised. 
Treatment  by  Chemicals. — Carbolic  acid,  formalin,  naphtha- 
lene, carbon  bisulphide  and  so  on  are  used  at  times  ;  but  their 
use  is  not  unattended  by  danger  to  the  crops  to  follow,  and  is 
not  always  satisfactory.  The  only  method  which  at  present 
seems  to  offer  some  degree  of  success  outside  is  the  use  of 
powdered  quicklime,  dug  in  while  still  in  a  thoroughly  caustic 
state.  Potash  salts  also  apparently  have  a  slightly  sterilising 
effect,  especially  kainit.  No  doubt  in  time  some  substance 
injurious  to  animals  such  as  the  eelworms  and  minute  creatures 
which  prey  on  bacteria,  will  be  found  sufficiently  cheap  to  act 
as  a  soil  steriliser,  and  with  it  will  begin  a  new  era  for  those 
whose  business  it  is  to  gather  the  riches  of  the  soil. 


2  B 


HOW  TO   MAKE  AND  CROP  A  KITCHEN 

GARDEN 


IT  is  proposed  to  explain,  as  concisely  as  possible,  how  a 
kitchen  garden  should  be  formed,  and  also  how  it  may  be 
cropped  to  the  best  advantage.  To  refer  first  to  the  forma- 
tion, one  can  but  describe  the  details  of  an  ideal  kitchen 
garden,  and  each  reader  must,  as  far  as  his  particular  circum- 
stances will  allow,  endeavour  to  approach  the  conditions  set 
out.  The  kitchen  garden  should  be  considerably  longer  one 
way  than  it  is  the  other,  say  in  the  proportion  of  two  to  three, 
and  the  greatest  length  should  be  from  east  to  west,  not  from 
north  to  south.  The  greater  portion  of  the  garden  will  then 
face  the  south,  thus  giving  a  more  extensive  surface  of  southern 
borders,  and  these  are  a  most  important  item  in  the  kitchen 
garden.  Shelter  from  the  north  and  east  is  essential.  The 
cold,  cutting  winds  that  prevail  in  the  spring,  even  if  they  do 
nothing  worse,  considerably  check  early  vegetables.  Although 
shelter  is  so  necessary,  one  must  remember  that  shade  is  not, 
and  whilst  better  shelter  than  that  afforded  by  fairly  tall  trees 
could  not  be  wished  for,  these  must  not  be  too  close,  or  they 
would  shade  some  portion  of  the  garden  also.  The  greater 
part  of  the  kitchen  garden  should  be  as  nearly  as  possible  on 
the  level,  although  it  is  wise  to  have  a  south  border  upon  a 

§entle  slope.     It  is  here  that  the  early  vegetables  will  be  grown, 
hould   the  whole  kitchen  garden  be  sloping  ground,  it  is 
probable  that,  during  the  summer,  the  vegetables  would  suffer 
from  want  of  moisture  at  the  roots — the  water  would  be  apt 
to  drain  to  the  base  of  the  slope,  and  there  disappear. 

Walls  are  of  the  greatest  value  in  a  kitchen  garden. 
They  are  expensive  to  build,  but  if  properly  and  effectually 
covered  with  fruit  trees,  the  cost  will  eventually  be  more  than 
repaid.  One  must  also  take  into  account  the  great  help  that 
vegetable  crops  derive  from  the  shelter  of  walls.  The  kitchen 
garden  must,  of  course,  be  enclosed  either  by  walls  or  hedges, 
and  if  the  former  are  erected  they  will,  in  the  end,  prove  more 
satisfactory.  We  will  suppose  that  the  kitchen  garden  is 

386 


HOW   TO   MAKE   A   KITCHEN   GARDEN     387 

enclosed  by  walls  ;  it  will  be  necessary  to  have  a  hedge  outside 
them  as  a  protection  for  the  trees  growing  against  the  outer 
side  of  the  former.  This  valuable  space  would  be  wasted  were 
it  not  protected  by  another  enclosure. 

One  word  must  be  said  against  the  practice  of  having  the 
kitchen  garden  in  some  out-of-the-way  corner.  During  the 
months  of  April  and  May,  what  part  of  the  garden  can  equal 
in  beauty  the  kitchen  garden  ?  Then  it  is  that  the  Apple, 
Pear,  Plum,  and  Cherry  Trees  are  in  full  blossom  (for  it  is 
presumed  that  the  fruit  and  kitchen  garden  are  one).  Not 
even  the  most  beautiful  hardy  flowering  shrubs  are  more 
charming,  or  so  burdened  with  blossom.  It  is  not  suggested 
that  the  kitchen  garden  should  be  formed  in  front  of  the 
dwelling-house,  but  it  might  with  advantage  be  within  easy 
access.  It  is  wise  to  make  it  beautiful  throughout  the 
summer  by  planting  suitable  flowering-plants  by  the  prin- 
cipal walks. 

The  Soil. — The  best  soil  in  which  to  grow  vegetables  is 
a  rich  loam  as  a  surface,  with  a  subsoil  that  allows  the 
moisture  gently  to  escape.  Soils  that  consist  chiefly  of 
either  clay  or  gravel  require  much  cultivation  before  they 
will  produce  good  crops,  and  should  therefore  be  avoided. 
Chalk,  providing  that  it  is  not  too  near  the  surface,  is  pre- 
ferable as  an  ingredient  to  either  clay  or  gravel,  for  the 
former  is  apt  to  become  waterlogged,  and  therefore  cold  and 
unwholesome  during  the  winter,  and  the  latter  has  little  of 
what  for  want  of  a  better  name  may  be  termed  "  body,"  so 
that  during  the  summer  it  practically  dries  up  unless  much 
labour  be  expended  in  mulching  and  watering.  It  is  rarely, 
however,  that  one  can  find  a  soil  that  is  all  it  should  be,  and 
one  has  therefore  to  improve  it.  The  great  value  of  a  refuse 
heap  as  a  soil  improver  is  not  generally  known  ;  at  any  rate 
it  does  not  appear  to  be  largely  taken  advantage  of.  By 
collecting  road  scrapings,  vegetable  refuse,  dead  leaves,  old 
soil  turned  out  of  flower-pots,  &c.,  into  a  heap,  and  mixing 
with  this,  from  time  to  time,  wood  ashes,  lime,  soapsuds,  &c., 
a  quantity  of  most  valuable  garden  food  will  be  provided. 
For  digging  into  light  land  such  material  does  more  good 
than  rank  farmyard  manure,  and  is  easily  and  cheaply  ob- 
tained. It  is  wise  to  allow  farmyard  manure  to  ferment 
before  using,  by  making  heaps  and  turning  these  frequently. 
Heavy  soil  can  be  ameliorated  by  the  mixing  in  of  wood 
ashes,  road  scrapings,  lime,  and  brick  rubble,  river  sand, 
lumps  of  burnt  clay,  &c.  An  excellent  method  of  disposing 
of  old  cabbage  stumps,  or  the  remains  of  a  winter  crop  that 


388  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

may  be  on  ground  required  for  spring  planting,  is  to  bury 
them  in  the  soil  when  trenching.  They  will  in  time  form 
valuable  manure  ;  by  this  method  is  the  ground  cleared  and 
prepared  for  another  crop,  and  enriched  for  the  benefit  of 
future  vegetables.  To  ensure  the  production  of  first-class 
vegetables,  the  soil  must  be  trenched.  A  thorough  trenching 
of  the  soil  in  the  kitchen  garden  is  of  the  utmost  benefit  to 
crops  cultivated  upon  it.  It  is  obvious  that  if  plants  are 
grown  in  the  same  soil  year  after  year,  this  must,  although  it 
may  be  regularly  manured,  to  a  certain  extent  depreciate. 
The  great  value  of  trenching  lies  in  the  fact  that  it  brings 
fresh  soil  to  the  surface  to  be  acted  upon  and  improved  by 
the  frost,  rain,  wind,  sun,  &c.,  and  gives  the  soil  previously 
on  the  top  a  rest. 

Trenching. — Neglecting  to  trench  land  will  result  in  im- 
poverishment, for  soil  that  is  never  exposed  to  the  ameliorating 
influences  of  the  elements  must  deteriorate.  By  trenching, 
the  subsoil  is  broken  up  and  rendered  friable,  and  therefore 
is  a  far  more  suitable  medium  for  roots  to  enter  than  a  more 
or  less  hard  and  unbroken  mass  of  material,  as  it  would 
otherwise  be.  The  work  of  trenching  is  best  done  in  the 
autumn,  so  that  the  soil  may  be  left  bare  throughout  the 
winter.  Details  of  the  work  will  be  found  on  page  378. 

Digging  also  materially  helps  to  improve  the  soil ;  it  is 
obviously  not  so  good  as  trenching,  for  in  the  latter  operation 
the  soil  is  moved  to  the  depth  of  quite  three  feet,  and  in  the 
former  to  about  fifteen  inches.  By  rough  digging  in  the 
autumn  the  soil  is  turned  over  and  not  broken  up,  but  left  in 
large  lumps,  thus  allowing  the  winter  elements  to  sweeten  and 
render  it  friable  ;  in  the  spring  the  soil  may  easily  be  broken 
and  prepared  for  either  planting  or  sowing.  Trenching  is 
work  that  needs  much  time,  labour,  and  expenditure  for  its 
proper  performance  ;  it  usually  happens,  therefore,  that  much 
of  it  cannot  be  undertaken  at  once.  The  kitchen  gardener 
should  make  it  a  rule  to  trench  a  certain  portion  of  nis  land 
every  year,  and  the  amount  to  be  thus  treated  will  be  best 
determined  by  himself.  This  is  the  only  practical  and  satis- 
factory plan  of  carrying  out  this  most  important  work.  One 
can  easily  know  by  the  disposition  of  the  crops  which  portion 
can  be  most  conveniently  trenched.  As  the  various  winter 
crops  are  grown  first  in  one  part  of  the  garden,  then  in 
another,  so  must  the  trenching  gradually  make  the  tour,  and 
each  vacant  portion  of  the  ground  be  treated  in  turn.  The 
simpler 

The  Design  of  the  kitchen  garden,  the  better  it  will  be. 


HOW   TO   MAKE   A   KITCHEN   GARDEN     389 

Make  convenient  plots  of  ground,  and  convenient  means  of 
access  to  them.  This  should  be  the  aim  in  view  in  the  for- 
mation of  a  kitchen  garden.  It  is  most  important  that  one 
should  be  able  to  get  on  the  land  easily  with  wheelbarrows, 
and  carts  also,  if  the  garden  is  of  sufficient  extent  to  warrant 
this.  Fruit  trees  should  be  planted  by  the  side  of  the  walks, 
say  at  a  distance  of  about  five  or  six  feet  away,  so  that  the 
branches  may  not  in  time  unduly  hang  over  the  roads.  Fruit 
trees  so  planted  add  considerably  to  the  appearance  of  the 
kitchen  garden,  and  leave  the  plots  altogether  free  for  the 
planting  of  vegetables.  The  ground  between  and  around  the 
trees  must  not  be  wasted,  for  Strawberries  and  Parsley,  to 
mention  but  two  useful  plants,  will  cover  it  profitably.  The 
excellent  little  Apple  trees  called  Dwarf  Horizontal  Espaliers 
are  just  the  thing  for  planting  by  the  sides  of  some  of  the 
smaller  garden  paths,  where  there  would  not  conveniently  be 
space  for  the  larger  Bushes  or  Pyramids. 

Cropping  the  Land. — The  kitchen  garden  must  be  cropped 
systematically.  The  various  plots  should,  during  the  winter, 
have  allotted  to  them  on  paper  the  vegetables  it  is  intended 
to  plant  in  the  coming  season.  The  maintenance  of  a  proper 
rotation  of  crops  is  one  of  the  most  important  details  in  the 
successful  management  of  the  kitchen  garden.  By  rotation 
of  crops  one  understands,  strictly  speaking,  a  succession  of 
different  crops  over  a  period  of  several  years.  Although  this 
theory  is  excellent,  it  is  not  always  possible  to  put  it  into 
practice  exactly.  Neither  is  it  absolutely  necessary  providing 
the  land  is  well  manured,  although  it  is  advisable  not  to  grow 
the  same  crops,  particularly  Potatoes  and  Brassicas,  upon  the 
same  land  year  after  year.  The  accompanying  tables  will, 
it  is  hoped,  be  of  help  as  showing  what  really  should  be  done ; 
it  probably,  however,  will  not  be  convenient  to  follow  strictly 
the  rules  there  laid  down.  They  may  be  accepted  more  in 
the  nature  of  a  guide.  Potatoes  continually  grown  upon  the 
same  land  will  make  the  latter  what  has  been  termed  "  Potato 
sick";  in  other  words,  it  will  be  considerably  impoverished. 
It  is  inadvisable  also  to  cultivate  plants  of  the  Cabbage  family 
(Brassicae,  which  includes  Cauliflower,  Cabbage,  Broccoli, 
Savoy,  Brussels  Sprouts,  Kale,  &c.)  on  the  same  ground  for 
several  years  in  succession.  Endeavour  to  change  the  crops 
as  frequently  as  possible,  for  the  old  adage  that  a  change  is 
as  good  as  a  rest  is  particularly  applicable  to  the  kitchen 
garden  land.  In  a  description  of  the  rotation  of  crops,  such 
as  that  accompanying  the  present  notes,  it  is,  of  course,  im- 
possible to  include  many  of  the  minor  vegetables,  technically 


390 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


UJ 


Privet 


CO 


id 


HOW   TO   MAKE   A   KITCHEN   GARDEN     391 

KEY   TO   PLAN 


PLOT  A 

ist  Year 

2nd   ,, 

3rd    „ 

Asparagus,  Rhubarb 

Horseradish 

f  Jerusalem  and  Globe  Arti- 
\                 chokes 

PLOT  B 

ist  Year 

and   ,, 
3rd    „ 

Strawberries 
» 

Onions 

Autumn  Sown  Cabbage 
Potatoes 

(  Carrots,    Parsnips,    Beet- 
(              root,  Salsify 
Autumn  Cauliflower 
Seakale 

PLOT  C 

Gooseberries 

Currants 

Raspberries 

PLOT  D 

ist  Year 
and   ,, 

3rd    „ 

Peas  in  Succession 
Potatoes 
(     Broccoli  and      ) 
t  Winter  Greens    j 

Scarlet  Runners 
A  Root  Crop 

Onions 

Potatoes,  Early  and  Late 
Peas 

Cauliflower 

PLOT  E 

ist  Year 
2nd    ,, 
3rd    ,, 

Celery 
Onions 
Cabbage 

Cauliflower 
Leeks 
Celery 

Brussels  Sprouts,  Leeks 
Potatoes,  Cauliflower 
Peas,  Winter  Salad 

PLOT  F 

ist  Year 
2nd  ,, 
3rd    „ 

Seakale 
Peas 
Potatoes 

Early  Savoys 
Potatoes 
Peas 

Early  Brussels  Sprouts 
Seakale 
Strawberries 

REFERENCES  TO   PLAN   ON   OPPOSITE  PAGE 

Plot  A  and  Plot  C  are  of  course  permanent.  The  reader  will  not  need  to  be  told 
that  Gooseberries,  Currants,  and  Raspberries  may  remain  where  they  are  planted  for 
many  years,  and  those  vegetables,  with  the  exception  of  Jerusalem  Artichokes,  mentioned 
in  Plot  A  will  also  thrive  best  if  left  undisturbed  for  several  years.  To  enable  one  to 
produce  a  supply  of  first-rate  Strawberries,  a  plantation  should  be  made  every  year. 
Good  results  are  had,  however,  from  planting  afresh  every  other  year,  as  mentioned 
on  page  456.  As  has  been  before  mentioned,  the  minor  quick-growing  vegetables  not 
here  included  will  be  worked  in  between  as  circumstances  allow.  It  will  be  seen  that 
each  plot  is  in  three  divisions ;  this  plan  has  been  adopted,  because  it  is  unlikely  in  a 
garden  of  the  size  of  that  under  consideration  one  plot  would  be  exclusively  devoted  to 
the  cultivation  of  any  one  vegetable. 

The  dotted  lines  in  the  plan  near  the  walks  represent  fruit  trees,  bushes,  and  pyramids 
by  the  principal  paths,  and  dwarf  horizontally  trained  trees  by  the  smaller  ones. 


392  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

termed  "  catch  crops,"  which  being  interpreted  means,  that 
instead  of  the  ground  being  allowed  to  remain  idle  during 
the  interval  that  may  elapse  between  the  gathering  of  one 
crop  and  the  sowing  or  planting  of  another,  it  is  made  use  of 
for  the  purpose  of  raising  some  such  quick-growing  vegetables 
as  Spinach,  Lettuce,  Dwarf  Beans,  Turnips,  &c.  All  these 
must  be  interleaved,  as  it  were,  between  the  standard  products 
of  the  kitchen  garden  ;  they  cannot  be  included  in  the  regular 
rotation  of  crops.  And  it  will  not  be  found  at  all  difficult  to 
introduce  them. 

Do  not  permit  weeds  in  the  kitchen  garden.  Not  only 
do  they  rob  the  rightful  dwellers  in  the  soil  of  much  food, 
but  they  are  altogether  an  eyesore,  and  a  painful  indication 
of  neglect.  Always  sow  and  plant  systematically  in  drills,  so 
that  the  hoe  may  be  easily  worked  between  the  plants.  He 
who  sows  broadcast  will  also  reap  weeds  broadcast,  for  it  is 
then  impossible  to  keep  them  down,  and  for  the  simple  reason 
that  one  is  not  able  to  reach  them  without  damaging  the 
cultivated  plants  in  so  doing. 


THE   MAKING   OF   GARDEN    ROADS 
AND   PATHS 


THE  construction  of  roads  and  paths  is  a  very  important 
item  in  the  laying  out  of  a  garden,  for  it  depends  largely 
on  whether  they  are  made  well  or  badly  as  to  whether  they 
can  be  used  or  not  in  wet  weather.  Of  the  many  points  to 
consider  in  connection  with  the  work,  one  of  the  most  im- 
portant is  drainage.  When  the  ground  is  naturally  well 
drained,  the  work  is  simplified,  for  there  is  little  necessity 
for  the  construction  of  an  elaborate  drainage  system.  Surface 
water  can  be  easily  carried  away  by  catchpits  made  here  and 
there  along  the  margins,  the  size  and  depth  being  regulated 
according  to  requirements.  But  when  the  ground  is  natur- 
ally heavy  and  badly  drained,  it  is  highly  important  that  a 
good  service  of  agricultural  drains  should  be  laid  to  prevent 
the  path  from  becoming  waterlogged.  In  such  a  case  the 
ground  should  be  excavated  to  the  required  depth  and  be 
left  2  inches  or  3  inches  higher  in  the  middle  than  at  the 
sides.  A  drain  can  then  be  formed  along  each  side,  with 
branches  20  feet  or  25  feet  apart  falling  each  way  from  the 
middle.  Connections  must  also  be  made  between  the  surface 
and  the  side  drains  for  the  purpose  of  carrying  surface  water 
away.  This  is  really  more  important  when  the  road  or  path 
is  to  be  used  for  vehicular  traffic  than  when  it  is  to  be  wholly 
for  the  use  of  pedestrians,  for  if  such  a  road  is  not  well 
drained,  it  is  impossible  to  keep  it  in  good  condition. 

The  contour  of  the  ground  is  another  item  which  has  an 
important  bearing  upon  the  construction  of  roads  and  paths. 
When  the  natural  ground  is  moderately  level,  or  has  a  slight 
general  slope,  the  work  is  more  simple  than  when  undulating 
ground  or  land  with  a  rapid  fall  has  to  be  dealt  with,  for  in 
the  one  case  it  may  be  necessary  to  reduce  hillocks  and  fill 
up  depressions  both  for  appearance  and  to  ease  the  road  for 
traffic,  while  in  the  latter  case  steps  must  be  taken  to  make 
the  road  as  easy  as  possible  to  climb,  and  also  to  provide 
against  its  being  badly  washed  by  heavy  storms.  When 

393 


394  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

removing  hillocks  and  filling  little  depressions,  care  must  be 
taken  to  arrange  the  sides  of  the  road  in  such  a  manner 
that  they  look  perfectly  natural ;  thus  it  may  be  necessary  to 
regulate  the  ground  for  20  feet  or  30  feet  back  in  order  to 
make  it  approach  the  road  more  or  less  in  the  form  of  the 
sides  of  a  valley.  Should  it  be  impossible  to  alter  all  hard 
lines,  then  banks  of  shrubs,  judiciously  placed,  may  be  made 
to  mask  the  defects.  The  gradient  of  a  steep  road  or  path 
may  be  eased  considerably  by  using  good  bold  curves ;  but 
when  the  road  is  for  vehicular  traffic,  the  curves  must  have 
really  good  sweeps,  for  sharp  turns  are  both  awkward  and 
dangerous.  Then,  to  stop  the  wash  of  water  flowing  rapidly 
down  and  carrying  gravel  with  it,  it  is  a  good  plan  to  have 
large  boulders  placed  in  the  gutters  every  20  yards  or  25  yards 
immediately  below  a  drain,  while  in  some  cases  it  may  even 
be  advisable  to  pave  the  gulleys  with  setts  or  to  lay  glazed 
earthenware  pipes,  cut  in  longitudinal  section,  along  the 
sides. 

The  depth  to  which  it  is  necessary  to  excavate  a  path  or 
road  depends  entirely  on  the  purpose  for  which  it  is  to  be 
used.  A  path  which  is  simply  for  use  by  pedestrians  may 
be  from  6  inches  to  8  inches  in  depth,  while  one  for  light 
vehicular  traffic  should  be  from  9  inches  to  12  inches,  and  if 
heavy  traffic  is  anticipated,  from  12  inches  to  18  inches  ;  but 
such  roads  are,  as  a  rule,  best  paved,  that  is,  when  they  are 
destined  for  service  roads  for  gardens  and  back  premises, 
rather  than  for  carriage  drives. 

A  path  which  has  been  excavated  6  inches  or  8  inches 
deep  should  be  drained  if  necessary,  and  have  3  inches 
of  hard  core,  stone  or  brick  rubble  placed  over  the  bottom. 
On  this  place  from  i  inch  to  2  inches  of  coarse  clinkers,  and 
ram  them  down  until  a  level  surface  is  formed.  Then  pro- 
ceed to  fill  up  with  whatever  material  has  been  selected  for 
the  surface.  As  a  rule,  nothing  beats  a  good  binding  yellow 
gravel  which  has  not  been  screened  too  finely.  This  must 
be  spread  and  well  rolled  while  moist,  otherwise  it  will  not 
set.  There  are  two  periods  when  gravel  is  objectionable. 
One  is  the  early  days  of  a  thaw  after  a  frosty  period,  and 
the  other  is  a  light  rain  after  a  dry  period.  At  both  these 
times  the  surface  is  wet  and  soft  and  the  lower  part  dry  and 
hard,  consequently  the  upper  part  is  lifted  by  the  feet  or  by 
wheels.  There  is  no  help  for  it,  and  nothing  can  be  done 
to  remedy  it  except  keeping  off  the  path  while  it  is  in  either 
of  these  conditions.  For  this  reason  it  is  often  desirable  to 
lay  asphalt  paths  in  small  gardens  where  the  paths  are  in 


MAKING  OF  GARDEN  ROADS  AND  PATHS     395 

everyday  use,  but  when  this  material  can  be  avoided,  avoid 
it  by  all  means.  Loose  gravel  or  granite  chips  are  sometimes 
used  in  preference  to  a  binding  gravel,  but  these  are  not  very 
satisfactory,  especially  when  the  path  is  destined  for  heavy 
use,  for  the  loose  chips  soon  become  filled  with  soil  and 
other  dirt.  By  rolling  on  every  possible  occasion,  a  well- 
made  gravel  path  keeps  in  good  condition,  and  there  is 
nothing  to  beat  it  for  appearance.  Carriage  drives  and  roads 


&f#r   3 
SEt^-    •  i 


Gt 


FIG.  25. — Diagrams  to  show  the  Construction  of  Garden  Paths. 

A. — Plan  of  drains  in  bed  of  path  :  i,  bed  of  path  ;  2  2,  side  drains ;  3  3,  branch  drains. 
B. — Section  of  path  showing  drains:  44,  catchpits  at  sides  of  path;  55,  section 
of  side  drains  showing  connections  with  surface  and  branch  drains ;  6,  branch 
drains  in  bed  of  path;  7,  rough  material;  8,  the  finished  rounded  surface  of  the 
path.  No.  9  shows  a  paved  channel,  and  No.  10  section  of  pipe  channel. 

must  be  given  from  6  inches  to  12  inches  of  hard  core, 
according  to  depth,  and  over  this,  flints  or  broken  granite 
should  be  placed  to  bring  the  road  within  2  inches  of  the 
surface.  Make  it  as  firm  and  level  as  possible,  then  cover 
with  gravel  and  roll  well.  Such  a  road  will  stand  a  consider- 
able amount  of  wear,  providing  wheel-marks  are  regularly 
raked  over  and  the  surface  frequently  rolled.  A  fertile  source 
of  injury  to  roads  is  the  heavy  shade  of  trees,  which  does  not 
allow  the  surface  to  dry,  and  by  their  leaves  falling  and  not 
being  regularly  cleaned  up.  Foreign  matter  of  any  descrip- 


396  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

tion  must  be  removed  from  the  surface  at  once  if  the  road 
is  to  remain  good.  Since  the  advent  of  motors,  some  people 
have  taken  to  tar  spraying  the  surface  of  carriage  drives. 
Roads  so  treated  wear  well,  but  are  less  pleasant  to  the  eye 
than  those  surfaced  with  gravel. 

For  temporary  roads  there  is  no  need  to  go  to  the  same 
trouble  or  expense  as  is  necessary  for  permanent  ones,  and 
excellent  roads,  capable  of  carrying  a  lot  of  heavy  traffic,  may 
be  constructed  of  old  railway  sleepers,  which  may  often  be 
obtained  for  9^".  or  is.  each  from  the  railway  companies. 
The  life  of  these  old  sleepers  may  be  anything  from  five  to 
twelve  years,  therefore  a  good  deal  may  be  said  in  favour 
of  their  use. 


VEGETABLE   GROWING 


VEGETABLES  should  form  no  small  part  of  the  garden,  and 
the  cottager  fills  his  plot  chiefly  with  the  things  he  knows  will 
bring  comfort  to  the  family.     This  phase  of  gardening,  there- 
fore ,  is  dealt  with  fully,  knowing  that  individual  tastes  differ 
§reatly,  one  preferring  the  succulent  Cabbage,  another  a  more 
ainty  vegetable,  the  Asparagus  or  the  Seakale ;  and  to  meet 
the  desires  of  all,  the  principal  kinds  are  described,  with 
accompanying  cultural  notes. 

Artichokes,  Globe. — Plants  of  these  can  be  raised  from  seed  sown  in  a  shallow  pan  or 
box  stood  in  a  frame  early  in  May,  or  be  sown  in  a  shallow  drill  outdoors,  being  thinned 
out  to  12  inches  apart.  Those  raised  under  glass  must  be  planted  outdoors  when  strong 
enough.  Only  a  few  plants  are  needed  in  any  garden.  In  November  they  should  be 
lifted  from  where  sown  and  be  planted  in  deep  soil,  4  feet  apart,  in  a  row,  as  growth  is 
very  strong.  Their  edible  product  is  found  in  the  green-pointed  scales  which  form  the 
flower-heads  in  a  bud  state.  They  must  be  cut  whilst  closed.  Their  value  as  food 
depends  on  the  fleshiness  of  these  scales.  New  growths  break  out  early  each  winter, 
and  these  need  some  protection  in  winter  by  having  straw  wrapped  round  them.  Plants 
can  be  increased  by  lifting  some  of  these  growths  or  suckers,  with  soil  attached,  and 
planting  them  out  into  fresh  soil.  This  is  preferable  to  raising  from  seeds,  as  seedlings 
vary  considerably. 

Artichokes,  Tuberous. — There  are  two  distinct  forms  of  these  roots,  which  are  called 
Artichokes  without  any  reason — the  tall  or  Jerusalem  Artichoke,  of  the  sunflower  family, 
that  produces  large  irregular-shaped  roots  and  is  of  somewhat  close  watery  texture,  and  the 
Chinese  Artichoke  so  called,  having  quite  small,  white  knotted  roots,  and  is  best  known 
as  Stachys  tuberifera.  The  former  is  grown  by  planting  medium-sized  tubers  in  March 
in  good  but  not  necessarily  rich  soil,  in  rows  2  feet  apart,  the  sets  being  buried  6  inches. 
A  small  plot  usually  suffices  for  all  ordinary  purposes,  as  the  tubers  are  chiefly  used  in  the 
making  of  soups  or  stews.  The  stems  are  single,  and  grow  to  a  great  height,  often  to 
8  feet.  A  row  or  two,  therefore,  makes  a  useful  break  for  unsightly  objects  in  the 
summer.  The  plants,  however,  very  seldom  produce  flowers.  The  stems  die  down  in 
November,  when  they  may  be  removed,  and  roots,  which  frost  does  not  harm  when  in 
the  ground,  may  be  lifted  and  used  as  needed.  Some  should  be  planted  in  fresh  ground 
every  year. 

The  Chinese  Artichoke  tubers  should  be  planted  in  February  in  rows  20  inches  apart, 
and  12  inches  apart  in  the  rows.  These  like  deep,  good  ground.  The  tubers  may  be 
dibbled  into  a  depth  of  4  inches.  Growth  begins  in  April,  and  is  bushy  and  dwarf,  the 
leaves  being  much  like  those  of  Sage.  During  the  summer  the  bed  becomes  densely 
covered  with  growth,  which  dies  down  in  the  autumn.  The  roots,  or  tubers,  may  be 
forked  out  as  wanted  during  the  winter,  being  washed  and  cooked  at  once,  partially 
boiled,  then  finished  by  frying  them  to  brown  the  tubers,  when  they  are  delicious  eating. 
A  fresh  bed  should  be  planted  every  winter  to  keep  up  a  supply  of  good  tubers. 

Asparagus. — Beginners  may  possibly  be  unable  to  cultivate  Asparagus  until  they 
have  had  some  experience  of  other  vegetables.  But  asparagus  is  a  native  plant,  and 
is  easily  grown.  It  is  propagated  by  sowing  seed,  for  that  is  abundantly  produced,  and 
is  cheap.  For  the  reception  of  the  seed  the  ground  should  be  dug  deeply,  and  well 
manured  in  the  winter.  If  it  runs  together,  then  it  should  be  lightly  forked  over  early  in 
April,  but  if  it  remains  light  and  loose,  drills  may  be  drawn  and  seed  sown  thinly  along 
them  about  the  middle  of  that  month.  Drills  should  be  14  inches  apart,  and  about  an 

.397 


398 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


inch  deep.  When  growth  is  good,  and  the  shoots  are  4  inches  in  height,  the  seedling 
plants  should  be  thinned  out  to  6  inches  apart,  the  soil  about  them  being  kept  well  hoed 
and  clean  all  the  season.  In  the  autumn  the  stems  die  down,  leaving  strong,  fleshy 
roots,  having  a  cluster  of  crowns  in  the  centre.  To  make  a  permanent  bed,  trench 
during  the  winter  a  piece  of  ground  of  sufficient  size  quite  2  feet  in  depth,  mixing  into 
the  bottom  soil  a  good  dressing  of  half-decayed  manure.  Do  the  same  with  the  top  spit 
of  soil,  so  that,  the  sides  being  deep,  the  ground  is  well  enriched  by  early  April,  which  is 
the  time  to  plant.  With  the  aid  of  a  garden  line,  throw  out  trenches  4  inches  deep  and 
7  inches  wide,  and  z\  feet  apart.  Into  these  put  the  best  of  the  seedling  Asparagus  roots, 
lifted  for  the  purpose,  at  2  feet  apart,  and  cover  them  up  and  level  the  soil.  Growth  the 
first  year  should  be  strong,  and  can  be  materially  helped  by  strewing  over  and  hoeing 
into  the  soil,  after  the  stems  are  12  inches  in  height,  a  light  dressing  of  coarse  salt  or  of 
nitrate  of  soda.  Weeds  must  be  kept  down  all  summer.  In  the  autumn  the  growths  will 
again  die  down.  During  the  winter  a  top  dressing  of  manure  may  be  laid  along  between 
the  rows.  The  treatment  the  second  year  must  be  as  for  the  first  year,  and  the  same  in 
the  winter.  Then  the  following  spring,  or  third  season,  some  of  the  stems  as  they  appear 
above  the  ground  may  be  cut  for  eating  up  to  the  middle  of  June,  and  the  following  year 
cutting  may  go  on  till  the  end  of  that  month,  and  the  same  for  many  years  after. 
Dressings  of  salt  or  nitrate  of  soda  may  be  given  each  summer,  and  of  manure  each 
winter,  and  so  treated,  a  bed  as  advised,  not  raised,  but  kept  level  with  the  ground,  will 
prove  the  most  profitable,  and  give  good  Asparagus  in  abundance.  But  it  is  useless  to 
put  out  plants  without  first  preparing  the  ground. 

Beans. — Of  these  pod-bearing  vegetables  there  are  three  distinctive  forms:  Broad  or 
Longpods,  Climbers,  and  Dwarf  Kidney.  The  first  named  are  fairly  hardy,  the  last 
mentioned  are  quite  tender. 

Beans,  Broad. — These  beans  may  be  sown  as  early  in  the  year  as  January,  other  sow- 
ings being  made  in  the  two  following  months.  Because  the  plants  are  very  susceptible  to 
attacks  of  a  black  insect  called  aphis,  or  dolphin,  it  is  not  advisable  to  make  sowings 
later  than  the  end  of  March  in  the  south  or  the  end  of  April  in  the  north,  except  where 
the  air  is  moist  and  the  soil  deep  and  holding.  The  plants  make  very  erect  growths, 
carrying  two  or  three  stems  from  each  seed.  In  good  ground  they  will  reach  a  height  of 
3  feet,  but  when  some  15  inches  of  bloom  is  expanded  on  the  stems  it  is  wise  to  pinch  out 
the  top  of  the  plants,  as  that  checks  growth,  and  causes  the  pods  to  form  and  lengthen. 
The  usual  rule  is  to  sow  in  drills,  4  inches  deep,  drawn  at  2  feet  apart,  the  seed  beans 
being  placed  4  inches  apart  in  the  drills.  Sometimes  double  drills  are  drawn  6  inches 
apart,  the  seeds  being  placed  into  each  as  already  advised.  In  such  cases  the  rows 
should  be  fully  2^  feet  apart. 'j  As  Broad  Beans  seldom  find  favour  after  Peas  become 
plentiful,  that  again  is  another  reason  for  not  making  more  than  about  three  early  sow- 
ings, except  where  these  Beans  are  specially  desired. 

The  Broad  form  of  Beans  is  known  as  Windsor,  and  there  are  ordinary  brown-seeded 
and  green-seeded,  or  Green  Windsor.  All  the  pods  are  very  broad  and  rather  short, 
seldom  producing  more  than  two  Beans  in  each  pod.  Those  who  like  large  Beans  when 
cooked,  or  if  allowed  to  get  rather  old,  then  boiled  and  skinned  before  being  served  to 
table,  think  these  Broad  Beans  best.  The  Longpod  form  includes  several  varieties,  all 
of  which  are  good.  Sometimes  the  pods  are  12  inches  in  length.  There  is  a  very  dwarf 
form  known  as  Dwarf  Fan  Cluster  or  Green  Gem,  but  this  is  seldom  grown. 

These  hardy  Beans  do  best  on  stiff  holding,  deeply- worked,  well-manured  soil.  When 
the  black-fly  which  so  commonly  infests  these  Beans  appears,  it  is  always  on  the  young 
tops.  These  may  be  picked  off  carefully,  and  be  carried  away  and  scalded,  as,  if  thrown 
on  the  ground  where  gathered,  the  insects  soon  return  to  the  plants.  When  the  soil  is 
good  and  moist,  not  much  trouble  is  given.  A  pint  of  seeds  will  plant  some  60  to  70  feet 
run  of  rows.  In  no  case  should  there  be  crowding  in  the  hope  of  securing  a  fine  crop. 
That  would  only  result  in  failure. 

Beans,  Climbing. — These  are  all  tender.  Their  season  ranges  from  May  till  October, 
but  cold  soon  injures  them.  Because  they  are  of  climbing  habit,  it  is  needful  to  furnish 
them  with  sticks,  either  straight1  or  branching,  or  string,  or  a  similar  support,  to  which 
they  readily  attach  themselves,  and  then  in  good  ground  they  will  grow  to  a  great 
height.  The  best  form  is  found  in  the  rough-podded  Runner,  commonly  called  the 
Scarlet  or  Dutch  Runner.  This  has  red-speckled  and  pure  white  seeds,  the  former 
producing  scarlet  flowers,  the  latter  white  ones.  There  is  an  old  variety,  Painted  Lady, 
the  flowers  red  and  white.  All  have  the  same  character  in  leaf,  pod,  and  productiveness. 
The  most  favoured,  however,  are  the  Scarlet  Runners.  A  capital  feature  in  a  good  row 
of  these  Beans  is  that  when  well  staked  a  good  blind  or  break  in  a  garden  is  formed  for 
some  three  months  of  the  year,  or  they  may  be  so  planted  and  trained  as  to  make  an 
admirable  creeper-covered  arbour. 

Culture. — Because  tender,  essentially  summer  croppers,  and  long-enduring,  it  is  need- 


ASPARAGUS  CROWN  WITH  ROOTS  SPREAD  OUT 
FOR   PLANTING. 


AN  ASPARAGUS   BED  5  FT.   WIDE  SHOULD 
ACCOMMODATE   THREE  ROWS. 


5^ 

k] 

O  ^ 


VEGETABLE   GROWING  399 

ful  to  give  them  good,  deep  holding,  retentive  soil.  In  all  cases  where  possible  the 
ground  should  be  deeply  trenched  and  heavily  manured  in  the  preceding  winter.  Where 
that  is  not  practicable,  there  should  be  opened  for  each  row  a  trench  20  inches  wide  and 
deep,  the  bottom  then  broken  up  with  a  fork,  layers  of  soil  and  manure  being  added  until 
the  trench  is  filled.  After  settling  down  for  a  few  days,  the  Beans  should  be  sown  in 
drills  drawn  with  a  hoe,  3  inches  deep  and  6  inches  apart,  down  the  centre  of  the  trench, 
the  seeds  being  placed  in  these  drills  at  not  less  than  6  inches  apart  so  as  to  give  the 
plants  ample  room.  The  drills  should  then  be  carefully  filled  with  fine  soil.  So  far  the 
culture  is  simple,  so  much  depending  upon  the  preparation  of  the  ground,  thin  sowing, 
and  good  seed.  That  can  always  be  had  good  by  careful  saving  from  the  previous 
season's  stock,  or  purchasing  from  a  good  seedsman. 

The  time  of  sowing  should  not  be  too  early,  except  where  it  is  possible  to  give  the  plants 
good  shelter.  Thus  a  sowing  may  be  made  as  early  as  the  middle  of  April  at  the  bottom 
of  a  warm  sunny  wall  or  wood-fence.  This  sowing  should  be  made,  however,  only  to 
secure  a  few  early  pickings,  as  it  is  too  hot  later  on.  Generally  the  first  sowing  may  be 
made  quite  early  in  May,  as  then  the  plants  are  usually  through  the  ground  in  two  weeks. 
A  second  sowing,  to  give  a  good  succession,  may  be  made  a  month  later. 

Supports  should  be  furnished  before  the  plants  begin  to  throw  up  tendril  or  climbing 
stems.  In  whatever  form,  they  should  be  fixed  about  3  inches  from  the  plants  along  each 
side  of  the  rows,  and  range  from  5  to  7  feet  in  height.  We  have  seen,  where  soil  was 
deep  and  good  and  stakes  tall,  Runner  Beans  reach  a  height  of  9  feet,  cropping  abundantly 
all  the  way  up.  Preference  should  be  given  to  long  rods,  and  each  plant  should  have  its 
own  stake.  These  the  climbing  tops  soon  attach  themselves  to,  or,  if  need  be,  can  be  helped 
to  find  their  own  proper  supports. 

Manuring. — There  is  great  need  for  liberal  manuring  of  the  ground  for  these  pod-bear- 
ing crops.  Abundant  produce  can  only  be  had  when  growth  is  strong,  indeed,  almost 
luxuriant.  To  create  that,  plenty  of  good  nitrogenous  manure,  such  as  animals  give, 
is  needful.  Further,  all  these  plants  like  occasional  good  soakings  of  liquid  manure  in 
the  form  of  house  sewage,  or  slops,  or  the  drainage  of  stables,  cow-sheds,  pig-styes,  &c., 
in  dry  weather.  Also  they  benefit  by  being  syringed  in  the  evenings  with  clear  water 
in  hot  weather,  such  dampings  especially  helping  flowers  to  set  seeds  rather  than  to  fall 
prematurely  from  the  plants.  Artificial  manures  are  best  given  in  liquid  form,  after  being 
soaked  in  a  tub.  Four  pounds  of  any  good  artificial  manure  will  make  40  gallons  of  liquid 
manure. 

Gathering  the  pods  should  not  be  neglected,  as  allowing  many  to  remain  on  the 
plants  and  become  old  greatly  hinders  production.  If  some  be  needed  to  produce  seed, 
select  and  leave  one  of  the  longest  and  straightest  here  and  there,  but  not  more  than  will 
give  the  required  quantity  of  seed.  Of  all  others  gather  as  fast  as  they  attain  the  proper 
table  size,  having  them  rather  young  than  old. 

Varieties. — The  best  of  the  scarlet-flowered  Runners  are  Scarlet  Giant,  Hackwood 
Park  Success,  Exhibition,  and  Prizewinner.  There  are  also  climbing  forms  of  the  so-called 
French  Beans,  and  these  need  the  same  treatment  as  Scarlet  Runners. 

Beans,  Kidney  Dwarf. — These  are  commonly  known  also  as  French  Beans,  but  the 
term  is  not  a  correct  one.  The  seeds  of  these  are  generally  smaller  than  those  of  the 
large  Scarlet  Runner,  and  are  very  varied  in  colour,  there  being  many  varieties.  They 
are  essentially  summer  croppers,  and  have  about  the  same  season  as  the  Runners  have, 
but  do  not  need  such  rich  soil,  as  they  are  less  productive  or  enduring.  They  do  well 
in  any  good  garden  soil,  in  rows  from  24  inches  to  30  inches  apart,  according  to 
strength  or  variety.  Drills  should  be  3  inches  deep  and  single,  and  the  seeds  set  into 
them  from  3  inches  to  6  inches  apart,  as  plenty  of  room  is  needful.  The  times  of 
sowing  may  range  from  the  middle  of  April  on  a  warm  border  and  every  fortnight  on  to 
more  open  ground  up  to  the  end  of  July,  and  even  in  August  on  to  a  warm  border  again 
where  protected  from  cold  winds,  or  large  wood  frames  can  be  placed  over  the  plants  to 
enable  them  to  crop  well  into  the  autumn.  In  all  cases  the  pods  should  be  gathered 
so  soon  as  fit  for  cooking,  or  otherwise  the  plants  soon  cease  to  crop.  In  very  hot 
weather  place  a  dressing  of  manure  between  the  rows  and  give  liberal  supplies  of  water. 

Varieties.—  For  outdoor  culture  one  of  the  very  best  earliest  is  Ne  Plus  Ultra.  That 
can  be  succeeded  by  Magnum  Bonum  and  Canadian  Wonder.  The  latter  two  are  rather 
strong  growers.  There  are  many  other  new  varieties,  including  those  with  golden, 
stringless  pods,  all  of  which  are  good. 

Beet. — These  are  usually  called  Beetroots,  but  the  term  "  roots"  is  needless.  These 
useful  products,  all  of  a  highly  nutritious  nature,  and  constituting  most  valuable  food, 
are  in  two  diverse  forms.  The  earliest  are  round  or  turnip-rooted,  the  later  ones  are  all 
long  or  taper-rooted.  For  early  purposes  the  very  best  is  the  Blood-Red,  a  selection  of 
great  value  from  the  original  Egyptian  round-rooted,  and  much  superior.  Its  great 
usefulness  lies  in  the  quickness  with  which  the  bulbs  are  formed,  and  therefore  early  use 


400  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

in  the  summer  and  autumn  before  the  long  or  tapering-rooted  varieties  are  ready  for  pull- 
ing. Beets  like  a  deep  holding  soil  of  good  quality  that  has  been  rendered  fine  and  loose 
by  well  turning  it  up  with  a  fork  in  the  spring.  If  a  previous  crop  has  been  well  manured, 
and  the  ground  before  the  winter  thrown  up  roughly,  and  later  forked  down  level  for 
sowing,  it  is  better  so  to  leave  it  than  to  add  fresh  manure,  as  such  application  in  a  fresh 
state  tends  to  the  production  of  side  roots,  which  are,  on  all  these  products ,| very  objection- 
able. But  when  it  is  essential  to  add  manure  to  the  ground  it  should  be  dug  in,  or  better 
still,  trenched  in  early  in  the  preceding  winter,  burying  it  well  down.  All  these  tapering 
roots  obtain  their  sap  food  chiefly  through  the  aid  of  the  fine  point  root  which  strikes 
vertically  into  the  soil ;  hence  where  manure  is  low  down  it  is  more  readily  utilised. 

Sowing  the  earliest  crop  may  take  place  in  the  south  quite  early  in  April  and  in  the 
north  at  the  end  of  the  month.  A  fairly  sheltered  position  is  best.  The  drills,  which  may 
be  an  inch  in  depth,  should  be  12  inches  apart,  the  seed  being  sown  thinly  in  them, 
then  covered  with  fine  soil,  roughly  raked  over,  and  left  neat  on  the  surface.  As  the  plants 
give  somewhat  sweet  leafage  birds  are  apt  to  prey  upon  it,  hence  some  protection,  either 
in  the  form  of  nets  or  dusting  with  lime  or  soot,  may  be  needful  for  a  few  weeks  after  growth 
begins,  to  protect  the  plants  from  harm.  To  have  these  round-rooted  early  Beets  in  good 
condition  the  plants  in  the  rows  should  be  thinned  to  6  inches  apart,  and  throughout  the 
summer  the  surface  soil  be  freely  stirred  with  a  hoe  both  to  kill  weeds  and  to  retain 
moisture.  When  the  roots  are  but  half  grown  they  may  be  pulled  for  use ;  and  when 
fully  grown,  which  they  will  be  by  the  beginning  of  August,  they  are  of  a  dark  crimson 
colour,  flesh  fine  and  firm,  of  good  flavour,  and  delicious  when  cooked  and  eaten  while 
cold,  or  sliced  and  eaten  as  salading.  The  blood-red,  globe-shaped  variety,  with  its  tops 
of  dark  hue  and  moderate  growth,  should  be  asked  for. 

Beets,  Tapering1. — As  these  forms  make  good  growth  well  into  the  autumn,  early 
sowing  is  undesirable.  It  is  therefore  soon  enough  to  make  sowings  during  the  month 
of  May.  The  ground  should  be  prepared  as  before  mentioned,  the  drills  being  drawn  14 
inches  apart,  and  grow  them  as  advised  for  the  round-rooted  forms.  In  using  a  hoe 
between  the  rows  great  care  should  be  taken  not  to  injure  the  roots.  Large  roots  are 
undesirable,  for  these  invariably  have  inferior  and  less  well-coloured  flesh  than  those  of 
medium  size. 

Varieties, — Some  that  show  handsome  dark-hued  leafage  and  also  have  roots  of  rich 
deep  colour  and  good  refined  flesh  are  Dell's  Crimson,  Pragnell's  Exhibition,  Nutting's 
Red,  and  Blood-Red  ;  Cheltenham  Greentpp  is  also  a  good  variety.  These,  when 
moderately  well  grown,  give  roots  of  the  highest  excellence  in  flavouring  and  deep- 
coloured  flesh. 

Wintering. — Being  somewhat  tender,  it  is  needful  to  lift  Beets  from  the  ground  and 
store  them  in  dry  sand  or  ashes  in  any  cool  shed  or  outhouse  from  which  frosts  are 
excluded.  The  cooler  the  roots  can  be  kept  the  better.  The  lifting  should  be  done 
not  later  than  the  middle  of  November,  the  soil  being  carefully  rubbed  from  each  root, 
and  the  leaves  not  cut  but  twisted  off,  before  placing  the  roots  in  the  sand.  Store  them 
so  that  the  crowns  project.  An  occasional  looking  over  them  is  needful  during  the  winter. 
Carefully  preserved  roots  should  be  good  till  the  end  of  May  at  least,  but  much  depends 
on  place  of  storage  and  attention  given  during  the  winter.  When  properly  cooked  and 
served  to  table,  a  really  good,  rich-coloured  Beet  is  delicious.  It  would  be  well  were 
Beets  far  more  largely  consumed. 

Broccoli. — These  are  fairly  hardy,  and  biennial,  that  is  to  say,  they  are  raised  from 
seed  one  year  and  produce  their  frothy  heads  for  eating,  and  later  their  flowers  proper 
in  the  following  year.  Their  time  of  heading-in  ranges  from  January  to  June.  Seed 
of  the  earliest  varieties,  those  to  head  in  early  in  the  year,  should  be  sown  in  March 
or  April,  to  enable  strong  plants  to  be  dibbled  out  into  rows,  2  feet  apart,  in  June, 
or  early  in  July.  Later  varieties  may  be  sown  in  May,  and  be  planted  out  in  August  and 
early  in  September.  It  is  undesirable  to  have  the  plants  too  gross  or  leafy,  as  these 
are  more  liable  to  injury  by  frost ;  again,  large  heads  are  undesirable,  as  those  that  are 
from  6  to  8  inches  across,  when  cut,  are  quite  large  enough  for  cooking.  When  the 
ground  is  rich  enough  with  manure  dressings,  it  is  well  to  tread  it  quite  hard  about  the 
plants,  as  that  induces  them  to  become  less  leafy  and  much  harder  in  the  stems.  It  is  a 
good  plan  to  put  out  Broccoli  plants  on  to  ground  that  has  just  been  cleared  of  Peas  or 
other  crops,  and  has  not  been  dug  again.  The  purple-sprouting  Broccoli  is  a  most  useful 
as  well  as  a  hardy  variety,  the  sprouts  being  gathered  as  needed,  and  thus  the  plants 
continue  to  produce  them  for  several  weeks.  Seeds  of  that  variety  should  be  sown  in 
April  or  May,  the  sprouts  being  ready  for  use  in  the  following  February  and  March. 
Seed  in  all  cases  should  be  sown  thinly,  in  drills,  12  inches  apart.  The  best  white  Broccoli 
are — Early  :  Christmas  White,  Winter  White,  and  Early  White ;  and  for  later  cutting  : 
Self-protecting,  Late  Queen,  and  Model. 

Brussels  Sprouts. — These  distinct  forms  of  Cabbage  do  not  produce  hearts,  but  each 


VEGETABLE   GROWING  401 

stem  gives  a  comparatively  small  head,  and  a  very  large  number  of  sprouts  which,  if  of 
proper  form,  are  about  the  size  of  walnuts,  quite  hard,  round,  and  green.  The  plants 
when  put  out  into  the  open  ground  from  the  seed-bed  as  early  as  June  become  strong  and 
tall,  and  commence  to  produce  sprouts  of  this  nature  at  the  bottom  of  the  stems  in 
November  ;  and  as  these  are  cut  off  and  used,  others  higher  up  will  swell,  and  in  due 
course  are  large  enough  for  use.  Thus  stems  that  are  from  20  to  24  inches  in  height  will, 
in  this  way,  give  a  supply  of  good  hard  sprouts  for  fully  five  months.  The  sprouts  come 
out  from  the  upper  side  of  every  leaf-stem,  and  as  they  mature,  the  leaves  ripen  and 
fall,  or  may  be  pulled  off,  but  in  no  case  should  they  be  removed  until  the  sprouts  are  to  be 
cut.  Cutting  takes  more  time  than  pulling,  but  as,  in  the  spring,  other  long,  tender  shoots 
break  out  from  the  stems  and  furnish  delicious  greens,  it  is  best  to  cut  the  sprouts,  as  then 
their  more  dormant  buds  are  left  to  break  into  shoots.  The  tips  or  heads  should  not  be 
cut  until  late  in  the  winter,  for  as  long  as  these  remain  stem  growth  goes  on,  and  sprouts 
are  produced,  even  though  they  are  only  small  ones.  Seed  should  be  sown  about  the 
middle  of  March  in  shallow  drills,  and  protected  by  nets  or  litter  from  birds.  It  is  well 
to  put  out  plants  when  6  inches  in  height,  as  then  they  make  strong  growth  and  begin  to 
sprout  early  in  the  winter.  The  usual  rule,  if  planted  in  a  bed,  is  to  have  the  rows  2  feet 
apart,  but  in  rich  ground  they  should  be  wider  than  that.  The  soil,  after  planting,  may 
with  advantage  be  made  very  firm,  as  that  tends  to  make  the  stems  harder.  Good 
varieties  are  Exhibition  and  Pride  of  the  Market. 

Cabbage. —Although  all  the  various  members  of  Brassica  are  of  the  Cabbage  tribe, 
having  all  emanated  from  the  wild  Cabbage,  yet  there  is  great  differences  in  them,  as 
may  be  found  in  Cabbages  proper,  White,  Red,  Savoy,  and  Colewort,  Curled  Kales, 
Brussels  Sprouts,  Cauliflowers,  and  Broccoli.  Under  the  term  Cabbage,  therefore,  we 
treat  of  those  properly  so  named.  What  are  called  White  Cabbages  are  all  hearting,  and 
whilst  leaves  exposed  to  the  light  are  green,  the  hearts,  being  firm  and  blanched,  are  white. 
These  constitute  one  of  the  most  valuable  of  vegetables,  being  very  hardy,  and  available 
for  use  nearly  all  the  year  round.  Sowings  of  seed  may  be  made  frequently,  the  earliest 
in  the  year  being  in  a  frame  in  February  ;  or  failing  a  frame,  then  outdoors  on  a  warm 
border  early  in  March,  the  object  being  to  secure  a  quick  succession  to  the  Cabbages 
obtained  from  an  autumn  planting.  The  seed-bed,  which  may  be  a  small  one,  should 
be  either  covered  up  thinly  with  dry,  clean  straw  litter  or  ferns  to  keep  off  birds,  or  be 
netted  over  for  the  same  reason.  A  second  sowing  may  be  made  in  May  to  give  plants 
to  furnish  heads  in  the  autumn,  after  Peas  are  over  and  the  hot  weather  has  passed 
away.  Yet,  a  further  sowing  may  be  made  about  the  middle  of  August  in  the  open 
ground.  This  sowing,  as  it  is  well  to  have  plenty  of  plants,  should  be  in  shallow  drills, 
10  inches  apart,  the  seed  being  thinly  sown,  as  then  the  plants  can  develop  well  for  plant- 
ing out.  It  is  a  good  plan  indeed  to  sow  all  these  Cabbage  seeds  in  drills  in  this  way. 
The  plants  obtained  from  an  autumn  sowing  should  be  ready  to  plant  out  on  good 
grounds  in  rows,  20  inches  apart,  early  in  October,  putting  them  in  with  an  ordinary 
hand  dibble,  and  in  all  cases  well  fixing  the  plants  in  the  soil.  From  such  a  sowing  there 
should  be  good  hearts  to  cut  from  during  May  and  June — much  depends  on  the  variety ; 
but  it  is  a  good  plan  to  have  two,  one  small  and  quite  early,  such  as  Harbinger  or  April, 
and  one  later,  like  Flower  of  Spring.  It  is  a  common  rule  to  allow  the  weaker  plants 
from  an  autumn  sowing  to  remain  in  the  bed  all  the  winter,  and  then  plant  them  out  in 
March  to  make  hearts  for  succession.  All  of  the  ordinary  type  of  Cabbage,  after  hearts 
have  been  cut,  will  produce  sprouts  that  are  valuable  also.  But  it  is  best  to  leave 
only  the  autumn  planted  stock  for  that  purpose,  as  the  cut  stems  break  strong,  and 
give  good  sprouts  for  some  ten  months  longer.  The  chief  times  to  have  Cabbage  good 
are  from  April  till  midsummer,  and  from  the  end  of  August  until  the  end  of  the  year, 
when  Coleworts  and  Savoy  succeed.  To  have  them  good  during  hot,  dry  weather,  it  is  need- 
ful to  water  liberally,  and  place  a  liberal  mulch  of  manure  about  the  plants.  When  cater- 
pillars appear,  a  sprinkling  of  fine  salt  on  the  heads  at  night,  and  washed  off  in  the 
morning  with  water,  does  great  good  in  destroying  the  pests  and  helping  to  manure  the 
plants.  Generally  it  is  well  to  have  plants  to  put  out  in  the  open  ground  in  March,  May, 
July,  and  October  to  have  a  long  succession.  Good  varieties  for  autumn  sowing  are 
Harbinger,  April,  Ellam's  Early,  and  Flower  of  Spring.  Heartwell  is  the  best  Cabbage 
that  we  know  for  sowing  in  spring  and  early  summer.  Harbinger  and  April  are  small, 
but  very  early,  and  may  be  planted  rather  closer  than  advised  above. 

Cabbages,  Red.— These  are  grown  exclusively  for  conversion  into  pickles,  being  of 
somewhat  harder  texture  than  cooking  Cabbages.  The  seed  is  sown  usually  in  the  early 
spring,  generally  in  April,  outdoors  with  other  varieties,  and  the  seedlings  transplanted 
when  strong  enough  into  a  row,  as  few  heads  are,  as  a  rule,  sufficient  for  ordinary  use. 
The  culture  required  is  simple  enough  ;  the  plants  need  only  to  be  planted  in  good  garden 
soil,  15  inches  apart,  and  kept  clean  by  frequent  use  of  the  hoe.  Very  large  heads  are 
undesirable  ;  indeed,  to  enable  large  ones  to  be  produced  it  is  needful  to  plant  out  much 

2  C 


402  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

further  apart.  The  old  Red  Cabbage  produces  very  large  and  useful  leafage  with  great 
heads.  The  Dwarf  Blood-Red  variety  is  preferable,  as  if  the  heads  are  smaller  than  the 
others  they  are  firmer,  of  deeper  colour,  and  much  sooner  come  to  maturity.  Seed  may 
also  be  sown  in  the  autumn  for  spring  planting. 

Cabbages,  Colewort. — These  hardy  greens  bear  a  close  resemblance  to  Cabbages,  but 
are  usually  sown  early  in  June,  and  again  in  July,  in  small  beds,  to  give  successional 
plants  to  put  out  in  the  autumn.  As  the  heads  are  not  large,  and  they  turn  in  quickly,  it 
suffices  to  plant  from  12  to  14  inches  apart  each  way,  both  in  August  and  September,  on 
ground  that  has  been  forked  over  after  a  crop  of  Potatoes,  Peas,  autumn-sown  Onions, 
or  similar  products  has  been  removed.  They  then  turn  in  for  pulling  or  cutting  during 
mid  and  late  winter.  The  flesh  of  these  Coleworts  when  cooked  is  softer  and  more  succu- 
lent than  is  that  of  Cabbages,  and  oeing  planted  so  close,  become  very  profitable.  Like 
all  Cabbage  tribe  seeds,  it  is  best  to  sow  in  shallow  drills,  and  also  to  protect  from  birds. 
The  two  common  varieties  grown  are  the  Hardy  Green  and  the  Rosette,  the  latter  being 
broad-headed. 

Cabbages,  Savoy.— Possibly  these  hardy  winter  Cabbages  originated  in  Savoy.  They 
are,  besides  being  hardy,  peculiar  for  producing  partially-curled  and  much-puffed  or  corru- 
gated leafage,  which  is  usually  of  a  dark  green  colour.  The  heads  are  roundish,  and 
during  the  season  become  very  firm.  They  are  best  for  cooking  from  December  till  the 
end  of  March,  severe  weather  helping  to  make  the  leafage  tender  for  eating.  The  times 
of  sowing  seed  varies  from  April  to  June,  according  to  variety  and  habit.  Too  often,  if 
seed  be  sown  early,  these  Cabbages  heart  in  during  the  autumn,  when  they  are  not 
wanted.  Plants  from  later  sowings,  especially  of  dwarf  varieties,  heart  in  late  in  the 
winter.  The  Drumhead  is  the  largest,  but  is  least  fitted  for  gardens.  The  best  varieties 
are  Dwarf  Green  Curled,  Tom  Thumb,  and  Early  Ulm.  Plant  the  first  18  inches  apart, 
and  the  latter  two  at  15  inches  each  way.  After  cutting,  the  stems  give  nice  greens  to 
gather  in  the  spring. 

Cabbages,  Kale.— These,  also  called  Borecole,  are,  like  Savoy  Cabbages,  essentially  late 
winter  and  early  spring  greens,  and  very  hardy.  Sowings  made  in  April  usually  suffice 
for  all  ordinary  purposes,  and  are  best  made  in  drills.  There  are  numerous  varieties,  the 
best  being  Dwarf  Curled,  Scotch,  Cottager's  (tall),  Drumhead  Kale,  which  forms  moder- 
ately hard  hearts,  and  Chou  de  Russie  or  Russian  Kale.  The  last  named  has  highly 
fimbriated  leaves,  and  is  a  splendid  vegetable  for  winter  and  spring  use.  The  Scotch  and 
Cottager's  need  to  be  planted  in  rows  2  feet  apart  and  18  inches  apart  in  the  rows, 
whilst  the  others  may  go  rather  closer  together.  The  Asparagus  Kale  is  much  liked  by 
some  also.  These  greens  can  often  be  profitably  planted  for  succession  between  dwarf 
Potatoes  or  Peas,  and  always  planted  to  follow  after  any  of  these  or  other  early  crops 
have  been  taken  up,  even  till  the  end  of  September,  as  their  produce  is  always  useful. 

Cardoons. — These  are  raised  from  seed  sown  in  shallow  boxes  under  glass,  the  seed- 
lings being  transplanted  into  rows  outdoors  when  strong,  or  seed  may  be  sown  in  drills 
on  rich  deep  soil  outdoors  at  the  end  of  April,  the  plants  being,  when  strong  enough, 
thinned  out  to  12  inches  apart ;  the  rows  should  be  4  feet  apart  to  enable  the  plants  to  be 
moulded  up,  as  Celery  is,  to  blanch  the  leaf  stems.  These  should  be  gathered  up  together 
before  soil  is  placed  to  them,  as  the  leafage  is  very  large  and  spreading.  When  stems  are 
strong  and  well  blanched,  they  are  from  20  to  24  inches  in  height,  but  for  ordinary  use 
smaller  ones  are  best  and  not  so  coarse  to  eat.  When  stems  are  cleaned  they  should  be 
cut  into  lengths  of  6  inches,  tied  into  bundles,  and  then  gently  but  well  boiled  before 
they  are  served  to  table. 

Carrots.— The  earliest  of  all  Carrots  are  the  Early  French  Horn  varieties,  such  as  are 
commonly  forced  on  hot-beds  or  sown  very  early  on  warm  garden  borders.  Where  there 
are  spare  wood,  movable  frames,  and  plenty  of  manure  and  tree  leaves  to  make  up  a 
hot-bed,  one  may  be  built  up  in  January  in  a  sheltered  and  warm  place,  on  to  which, 
when  settled  down,  the  wood  frame  may  be  placed.  Into  that  should  be  put  good  soil 
6  inches  in  depth,  well  levelled,  and  on  which,  in  shallow  drills  4  inches  apart,  seeds  of 
the  Early  Horn,  Forcing,  or  Gem  may  be  thinly  sown,  then  covered  up  with  fine  sandy 
soil,  also  thinly,  well  watered,  and  left  after  the  light  has  been  shut  down  close.  A  hot- 
bed made  up  2  feet  in  depth,  and  very  firm,  of  one-half  stable  manure  and  the  rest  of 
tree  leaves,  gives  a  gentle  warmth  for  some  time,  and  answers  admirably  to  help  the 
seed  to  make  growth.  There  will  be  nice  Carrots  usually  from  an  inch  to  an  inch 
and  a  half  long,  and  about  the  size  round  of  a  man's  small  finger,  to  pull  in  a  few 
weeks,  and  most  delicious  they  are.  Thinning  the  plants  is  not  required.  A  similar 
sowing  may  be  made  in  February  on  a  piece  of  ground  the  size  of  a  frame,  on  a  warm 
border,  without  any  hot-bed.  Round  the  bed  may  be  fixed,  on  edge,  stout  boards 
12  inches  deep,  and  on  these  be  laid  the  glass-light  of  a  frame  of  that  size.  Failing  a 
frame,  strips  of  wood  may  be  laid  across,  and  on  these  a  thin  covering  of  canvas  or  calico, 
until  growth  begins,  then  the  covering  should  be  given  only  at  night.  Early  in  April  sow- 


VEGETABLE   GROWING  403 

ings  of  the  Early  Nantes,  Champion,  or  Model,  short,  blunt-rooted  Carrots,  from  5  to  6 
inches  long  and  of  delicious  quality,  should  be  made  in  light,  well-pulverised,  and  deep- 
worked  soil.  Drills  for  these  should  be  10  inches  apart,  the  seeds  being  thinly  sown  to 
save  labour  in  thinning  the  plants  later.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  dress  the  ground,  and  well 
point  it  in  with  a  fork  before  drawing  the  drills,  with  a  mixture  of  wood  ashes,  soot,  and 
guano,  the  latter  in  the  proportion  of  one-tenth  to  the  others.  The  bed  should  be 
trodden  moderately  firmly  after  the  seed  is  sown. 

Carrots,  Main  Crop,  are  of  longer  form,  and  should  not  be  sown  until  the  end  of 
April  or  early  in  May.  The  best  variety  for  this  purpose  is  that  known  as  St.  Valery, 
New  Intermediate,  or  Matchless.  This  is  a  broad-shouldered  Carrot,  tapering  hand- 
somely to  a  root-point,  and  is  usually  from  10  inches  to  12  inches  long.  It  is  the  heaviest 
cropper  of  all  Carrots  grown.  The  soil  for  the  crop  should  be  deeply  trenched,  and,  if 
manured,  the  dressing  should  be  added  in  the  early  winter  when  the  trenching  is  done. 
In  the  spring  the  surface  should  be  lightly  forked  over,  and  a  dressing  added  as  previously 
mentioned.  Drills,  as  drawn  with  a  broad  hoe  beside  a  garden  line,  should  be  12  inches 
apart  and  comparatively  shallow,  as  it  is  only  needful  to  bury  the  seed  about  half  an  inch 
in  depth.  Sow  seed  thinly,  and  cover  up  quite  evenly  with  fine  soil,  raking  over  the  entire 
surface  of  the  bed,  treading  and  leaving  it  until  good  growth  has  followed.  The  first 
labour  should  be  directed  to  thoroughly  hoeing  the  soil  between  the  rows  ;  then  when  the 
young  plants  are  well  up,  these  should  be  thinned  in  the  rows  to  some  6  inches  apart.  A 
free  use  of  a  hoe  between  the  plants  during  the  summer  is  the  chief  attention  requisite. 
Very  large  Carrots,  especially  if  the  seed  be  sown  early,  are  apt  to  split.  Without  doubt, 
the  best  flavoured  roots  for  cooking  are  those  of  medium  size  and  of  clean  growth.  Main 
crop  Carrots  have  to  be  lifted  from  the  ground  and  stored,  when  cleaned  of  dirt  and  side 
roots,  in  dry  sand  or  ashes  in  any  cool,  airy  cellar  or  outhouse,  the  crowns  being  in  all 
cases  outwards.  So  cared  for  the  roots  keep  well  for  many  months.  It  may  be  needful 
now  and  then  to  run  each  of  the  roots  through  the  hand  to  remove  root  or  other  growths, 
replacing  them  in  the  sand  or  ashes  as  before.  Where  there  is  a  summer  sowing  the 
main  crop  or  large  roots  may  be  used  for  soups  and  stews,  whilst  the  younger  ones  are  best 
for  table.  Carrots  are  very  nutritious  food,  and  when  well  grown  as  advised  are  fit  for 
any  table. 

Summer  Sowing. — Although  it  is  sometimes  difficult  to  get  Carrot  seed  to  germi- 
nate when  sown  in  July,  yet  it  should  be  the  aim  of  all  who  like  these  roots  young  and 
tender  during  the  winter,  to  make  a  good  sowing  of  seed  in  that  month.  Just  then 
early  Peas,  Potatoes,  and  other  crops  being  removed  leaves  ground  available  for  a  sowing 
of  Carrot  seed,  not  necessarily  a  large  one.  The  best  varieties  are  the  blunt-rooted 
Model  or  the  New  Intermediate,  because,  whilst  of  good  size  under  ordinary  conditions, 
the  roots  from  a  July  sowing  are  not  so  and  need  little  thinning,  as  the  chief  object 
is  to  have  plenty  of  comparatively  small  roots  to  pull  that  are  soft,  succulent,  and  of 
delicious  quality  all  the  winter.  One  excellent  result  of  such  a  summer  sowing,  made  in 
drills  10  inches  apart,  is  that  the  tops  keep  green  all  the  winter.  It  is  needful  when  severe 
weather  sets  in  to  cover  up  a  portion  of  the  bed  with  long  straw-litter  or  ferns  so  as  to 
exclude  frost  and  enable  pullings  to  take  place. 

Cauliflowers. — These  are  more  tender  in  constitution  and  texture  than  Broccoli.  They 
are  also  properly  annuals,  as  the  plants  can  be  readily  induced,  by  early  sowing  of  seed 
under  glass,  to  produce  heads,  and  from  these  flowers  the  same  season.  Cauliflowers 
also  are  so  far  tender  that  they  will  not  endure  exposure  to  ordinary  winters  in  this 
country.  There  are  dwarf  and  tall,  early  and  late  varieties,  the  earliest  being  Snowball 
or,  as  sometimes  called,  Matchless,  and  Sutton's  First  Crop.  These,  when  mature, 
produce  close,  compact,  very  white  heads,  some  6  inches  clear  and  almost  close  to  the 
ground.  To  have  these  forms  giving  heads  early  it  is  well  to  sow  seed  in  shallow  boxes 
or  pans  in  gentle  warmth  either  in  a  frame  or  greenhouse  during  February.  Growth  is 
then  quick,  and  the  plants  should  be,  when  4  inches  in  height,  dibbled  out  into  other 
boxes  2  inches  apart,  and  be  grown  on  in  a  cool  house  or  frame,  kept  near  the  glass  so 
as  to  induce  them  to  become  stout  and  sturdy.  From  the  boxes  each  plant,  being  lifted 
with  a  trowel  and  balls  of  soil  and  roots  attached,  should  be  planted  out  on  a  warm  border 
about  the  middle  of  April  in  rows  18  inches  apart.  For  this  purpose  the  soil  should  be 
well  manured  and  deeply  dug.  From  such  a  planting  generally  heads  may  be  cut  early 
in  June.  It  is  possible  where  a  frame  is  at  disposal  to  plant  some  into  it  12  inches  apart 
and  thus  secure  white  heads  some  two  weeks  earlier.  Some  gardeners  even  put  plants 
singly  into  6-inch  pots,  and  stand  them  in  a  vinery  or  peach  house  where  they  head  in 
very  quickly,  though  small.  Still  Cauliflowers  are  not  generally  much  forced.  If  a 
further  sowing  of  this  early  strain  be  made  in  March  or  April  plants  give  heads  outdoors 
in  due  succession.  Sowings  maybe  made  of  later  and  larger  varieties,  both  in  frames 
and  in  beds,  or  in  drills  outdoors  in  April,  as  these  need  a  much  longer  season  to  mature. 
A  good  summer  variety  is  Early  Giant,  and  others  equally  good  are  Kinver  Monarch  and 


4o4  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

Late  Guardian.  These  from  an  April  sowing,  then  planted  out  at  the  middle  of  June, 
give  fine  heads  during  August  and  September,  especially  if  well  watered  when  planted 
and  the  soil  has  been  well  manured.  Cauliflowers,  because  they  have  to  make  their 
chief  growth  during  hot  weather,  need  more  liberal  treatment  in  soil  and  watering  than 
Broccoli.  A  later  and  rather  hardier  variety  also  to  be  sown  in  April  is  Veitch's  Autumn 
Giant.  This  is  a  superb  variety  to  head  in  during  September  and  two  or  three  following 
months.  Plants  should  be  put  out  into  rows  fully  2^  feet  apart,  and  in  good,  deep 
holding  soil.  If  one  planting  be  made  in  June  and  a  second  a  month  later  then  a  long 
succession  of  heads  is  produced.  Late  heads  may  be  partially  protected  from  early  winter 
frosts  by  drawing  the  large  leaves  together  and  tying  them  into  a  cone.  That  should  be 
done  as  soon  as  white  heads  show.  Even  a  few  large  leaves  broken  down ,  so  that  they 
lay  two  or  three  thick  over  the  centres,  protect  in  the  same  way.  Cauliflower  and  Broccoli 
stems,  after  the  heads  have  been  cut,  do  not  sprout,  hence  they  may  he  pulled  or  forked 
up  and  removed  at  once. 

Celery.— This  is  the  chief  of  winter  salads,  and,  when  well  prepared,  is  in  universal 
favour.  But  its  excellence  depends  so  much  upon  culture  and  proper  blanching  that 
Celery  may  well  be  classed  amongst  the  best  vegetables  of  a  garden.  It  is  a  hardy, 
cold  weather  plant  also,  yet  sometimes  suffers  severely  from  hard  frosts,  because  the 
blanching  of  the  stems  serves  to  make  them  somewhat  tender.  Seed  is  cheap,  and  a 
very  small  quantity  suffices  to  make  a  sowing  for  a  small  garden.  Two  sowings  also  are 
ample.  The  first  should  be  made  rather  thinly  in  a  broad,  shallow  pan  filled  with  light, 
sandy  soil.  In  a  pan,  10  inches  broad,  some  200  seedlings  can  easily  be  raised,  enough 
to  make  quite  a  big  planting  for  a  small  garden.  Make  that  sowing  about  the  end  of 
February,  standing  the  pan  in  a  frame  or  greenhouse,  and  shading  when  the  sun  shines 
out  warmly.  The  seed  of  Celery  germinates  slowly,  but  comes  all  in  good  time.  When 
the  seedlings  are  2  inches  in  height  they  should  be  lifted  carefully  from  the  pan  and  be 
put  out  3  inches  apart  on  to  shallow  boxes  of  soil  or  into  a  frame  or  under  a  hand-light 
where  they  can  remain  until  6  inches  in  height  and  quite  strong,  ready  to  plant  out  into 
trenches.  The  second  sowing,  to  give  later  plants,  may  be  made  in  the  same  way,  or,  if 
preferred,  in  a  shallow  box,  towards  the  end  of  April.  The  plants  of  this  sowing,  when 
strong  enough  to  lift,  should  be  dibbled  out  on  a  well-prepared  patch  of  ground,  slightly 
shaded,  in  the  open  garden.  For  such  purpose  throw  off  an  inch  thick  of  the  top  soil 
on  a  space  4  feet  by  6  feet,  then  lay  on  the  space  short  manure,  an  inch  thick,  well 
patted  down,  and  on  to  that  recast  the  soil  previously  thrown  off  and  neatly  levelled. 
Then  dibble  out  the  seedling  plants  on  to  that,  4  inches  apart  each  way,  taking  sixteen 
plants  in  a  row,  and  if  the  whole  patch  be  thus  filled  it  will  hold  upwards  of  350  plants. 
When  planted  water  freely,  and  as  it  will  then  be  June  shade  from  strong  sunshine  for 
some  ten  days  until  the  plants  are  well  rooted.  Water  freely  each  day  if  needed.  In 
six  weeks  very  strong  well-rooted  plants  will  result. 

Trenches  for  the  reception  of  Celery  plants  are  desirable,  not  only  because  they 
facilitate  moulding  up  to  blanch  the  stems  later,  but  also  enable  liberal  waterings  to  be 
given,  and  where  made  side  by  side  trenches  should  be  fully  5  feet  apart.  Also  they 
should  be  thrown  out  18  inches  wide  and  12  inches  deep.  If  the  bottom  soil  be  good  add 
a  dressing  of  well-decayed  manure  3  inches  thick,  and  well  fork  it  into  the  bottom.  If  the 
subsoil  be  poor,  or  gravelly,  or  clay,  throw  out  8  inches  depth  of  it  upon  one  side,  throw 
in  so  much  of  the  top  soil,  then  add  to  that  and  mix  the  needful  manure  dressing,  and  on 
that  fork  in  a  couple  of  inches  more  of  soil.  In  a  few  days  the  trenches  will  be  ready  to 
plant.  Do  that  with  a  trowel,  lifting  a  dozen  or  so  plants  from  the  bed  at  once  with  good 
ball  of  soil  and  roots,  taking  them  in  a  flat  basket  to  the  trench,  and  then  with  the  trowel 
planting  them  well  in  a  single  row  up  the  centre  of  the  trench  at  10  inches  apart,  fixing 
them  securely  by  treading  with  the  feet  as  the  planting  proceeds.  If  at  once  a  liberal 
soaking  of  water  be  given  the  plants  will  not  suffer  much  from  the  transplanting.  No 
set  time  can  be  fixed  for  this  work,  as  much  depends  on  when  ground  for  trenches  is 
available.  Usually  for  late  Celery  the  end  of  July  is  soon  enough  to  get  it  out,  and  by 
that  time  some  early  Potatoes,  Peas,  or  other  crops  have  been  cleared  off  and  space  is 
available.  In  the  case  of  an  earlier  planting  it  is  desirable  if  possible  to  reserve  a  space 
specially  for  a  trench  or  two,  but  that  must  depend  on  garden  room,  otherwise  the  first 
ground  cleared  from  some  other  crop  must  be  used. 

Celery  plants  are  gross  feeders,  and  during  dry  weather  need  frequent  liberal  water- 
ings ;  and  if  once  a  week  the  plants  can  have  a  good  soaking  of  liquid  manure,  made  in 
a  large  tub  from  horse,  sheep,  or  fowl's  manure,  with  some  soot  added,  or  failing  these 
things,  then  with  some  dissolved  guano  or  other  artificial  manures,  at  the  rate  of  i  Ib. 
to  10  gallons  of  water,  great  good  will  result.  Fairly  quick  growth  is  always  best. 
Earthing  should  not  commence  until  the  plants  have  made  strong  growth,  as  after  it  has 
begun  watering  cannot  go  on.  This  work  should  always  be  done  in  dry  weather ;  any 
very  short  leaves  or  suckers  about  the  bottoms  of  the  plants  should  be  first  pulled  off. 


VEGETABLE   GROWING  405 

Moulding  up  is  facilitated  if  the  tall  stems  of  each  plant  be  tied  up  loosely  together,  as 
then  with  a  fork  or  spade  the  soil  can  be  placed  about  the  plants  evenly,  being  gently 
pressed  in  about  them  with  the  hand.  The  first  moulding  should  not  exceed  6  inches  in 
depth,  other  mouldings,  of  some  3  or  4  inches  in  depth,  being  added  as  the  plants  make 
growth,  until  finally  they  are  well  banked  up  with  soil  on  both  sides,  and  patted  down 
to  throw  off  rain.  Late  Celery  may  be  in  very  severe  weather  saved  from  harm  by  shaking 
over  the  tops  of  the  plants  some  fern  or  long  straw-litter.  The  chief  insect-pest  is  the 
maggot,  caused  by  the  celery-fly,  which  deposits  its  eggs  in  the  leaves.  These  soon 
hatch  and  produce  maggots,  which  subsist  on  the  green  colouring  matter  in  the  leaves, 
and  make  brown  blotches  in  them.  As  soon  as  these  blotches  are  seen  they  should  be 
pressed  firmly  between  finger  and  thumb,  thus  killing  the  insect.  Good  White  Celeries 
are  Pearl  White  and  Solid  White  ;  and  of  reds  none  are  better  than  Aldenham  Prize 
Pink  and  Mammoth  Red.  These  latter  are  best  for  late  winter  use,  being  usually  hardier 
than  white  varieties. 

Celeriac. — This  is  a  turnip  rooted  form  of  Celery,  and  is  useful  when  well  grown  to 
give  bulbous  roots  for  stewing  or  for  slicing,  to  make  salading,  or  may  be  used  equally 
for  flavouring  soups,  &c.  Seed,  of  which  one  sowing  is  ample,  may  be  sown  in  April. 
The  plants  are  hardier  than  Celery,  and  one  great  point  is  that,  if  grown  from  seed  as 
Celery  is,  then  when  the  plants  are  strong,  put  out,  9  inches  apart,  in  rows  2  feet  apart, 
on  level  but  good  ground,  the  bulbs  form  on  the  surface  like  those  of  turnips,  and  in  the 
winter  they  can  be  covered  up  with  soil,  the  tips  of  the  leaves  only  being  exposed,  and 
in  that  way  kept  from  harm  by  frost.  Celeriac  should  always  be  grown  where  flavouring 
for  soups  is  in  great  demand. 

Chicory  or.Witloof. — This  is  a  deep  growing,  fleshy-rooted  plant  similar  to  the  Parsnip. 
The  leaves  closely  resemble  those  of  the  Dandelion.  Seeds  sown  in  shallow  drills,  12 
inches  apart,  in  the  month  of  May  on  good  garden  soil  will  give  properly  thinned,  strong 
roots  the  following  winter.  Seeds  should  be  sown  thinly  in  the  drills,  as  the  plants  have 
to  be  thinned  out  4  inches  to  5  inches  apart  in  the  rows.  The  hoe  should  be  freely  used 
between  them  during  the  summer.  In  the  winter  the  roots  may  be  lifted  as  needed,  or 
in  bulk,  and  stored  in  dry  sand  in  a  cool  shed  ;  then,  if  some  be  placed  in  a  cellar  or  in 
a  big  box  with  soil  about  them,  and  covered  up  quite  close  to  exclude  light,  the  crowns 
send  up  strong  growth  like  Seakale  ;  when  blanched  it  is  tender  and  mild,  making  capital 
salading,  or  may  be  cooked  like  Seakale  and  eaten.  It  is  a  useful  winter  vegetable. 

Cucumbers. — Because  these  tender  members  of  the  Gourd  family  can  rarely  be  grown 
successfully  except  under  glass,  they  tax  the  capacity  of  beginners  in  gardening  materially. 
The  simplest  culture  is  only  required  to  produce  Ridge  Cucumbers,  and  small  ones  of 
the  same  nature  called  Gherkins.  These  are  grown  outdoors  in  warm  positions,  and  if 
wind  prevails  in  the  garden  much  shelter  can  be  provided  by  growing  on  the  windward 
side  a  tall  row  of  Runner  Beans.  Even  a  bed  of  Asparagus  will  also  furnish  a  break 
from  wind.  The  best  way  to  grow  these  is  to  make  holes  18  inches  across  and  12  inches 
deep.  Fill  these  holes  with  short  fresh  stable  manure,  treading  it  down  and  heaping  soil 
over  it  4  inches  thick,  thus  forming  a  mound.  In  the  centre  of  each  of  these  mounds  sow, 
4  inches  apart  and  i  inch  in  depth,  six  seeds.  Place  a  large  flower-pot  over  each  mound 
until  growth  is  seen.  Then  lift  it  off,  covering  up  only  at  night,  or  at  least  until  the 
plants  become  too  strong  to  be  thus  protected.  But  when  second  or  third  leaves  have 
been  formed,  three  of  the  weaker  plants  should  be  pulled  out,  leaving  the  three  strongest 
only.  The  mounds  should  be  3  feet  apart.  The  sowing  should  take  place  about  the 
third  week  in  May,  but  later  if  the  weather  be  cold.  The  manure  buried  into  the  holes 
generates  a  little  warmth  which  helps  the  seeds  to  germinate.  For  that  purpose  it  is 
well  to  prepare  the  mounds  about  a  week  before  the  ordinary  date  of  sowing  seed.  The 
best  varieties  for  this  form  of  outdoor  culture  are  King  of  the  Ridge,  Long  Green,  and 
The  Gherkin,  the  latter  being  used  for  pickling. 

Cucumbers,  Frame-House. — All  the  long  handsome  cucumbers  seen  in  shops  and  in 
markets  are  grown  in  warmth,  under  glass.  But  beginners  in  gardening,  who  have  prob- 
ably only  a  frame  or  small  greenhouse  at  their  disposal,  can  grow  them  only  in  a  small 
way.  To  have  the  fruits  early,  the  most  useful  way  in  this  case  is  to  obtain  stable 
manure  early  in  the  spring,  and  to  make  up  a  proper  hot-bed  for  the  purpose.  To  do 
this  well  the  manure  should  be  obtained  all  at  once,  and  in  sufficient  quantity.  If  a 
frame  be  of  the  ordinary  one-light  size,  6  feet  by  4  feet,  a  good  cartload  of  manure  will  be 
needed,  and  for  a  double-light  frame  quite  two  cartloads  are  needful.  When  obtained,  the 
whole  of  it  should  be  well  turned  into  a  neat  heap,  and  shaken  or  mixed,  removing  the 
bulk  of  the  long  straw.  That,  of  course,  reduces  the  quantity,  but  it  is  needful.  When 
the  heap  has  been  thus  made,  a  long,  pointed  stick  should  be  thrust  deep  into  it.  After 
four  or  five  days  that  can  be  pulled  out  and  felt  to  test  heat,  and  if  found  hot  the  heap 
should  be  at  once  re-turned  and  well  shaken  together ;  also  the  manure  during  the 
process  should  receive  several  good  sprinklings  of  water,  not  to  deluge  it,  but  to  damp  it 


406 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


equally.  After  remaining  for  some  six  days,  and  being  again  tested,  the  heap  may  be 
taken  and  built  up  into  a  hot-bed,  on  which  the  frame  is  to  rest.  That  bed  must  be  12 
inches  longer  and  broader  than  the  frame,  that  it  may  securely  stand  on  it.  The  bed 
should  be  firmly  trodden  when  made,  and  be  rather  higher  behind  than  in  front,  being 
in  a  sheltered  place,  and  facing  the  south.  So  soon  as  made  the  frame  can  be  placed  on 
it,  with  a  mound  6  inches  deep  in  the  middle  of  good  turfy  loam,  with  which  is  mixed 
a  very  little  well-decayed  manure.  An  inch  thick  of  the  soil  may  be  spread  over  the 
rest  of  the  bed.  The  glass  light  may  then  be  put  on.  Any  spare  litter  or  straw  can  be 
packed  round  the  bed  to  exclude  wind  and  air,  and  over  the  frame  mats  may  be  laid. 
When  the  frame  is  found  to  be  filled  with  steam,  tilt  the  light  a  couple  of  inches  at  the 
back  to  allow  it  to  escape.  When  that  steam  declines  the  Cucumber  plants  may  be  put 
out  into  the  mound,  the  roots  being  well  buried,  but  very  little  of  the  stems.  For  a 
single-light  frame  two  plants  are  ample.  After  planting  give  a  good  watering  with  tepid 
water  and  shut  down  the  light.  It  may  be  well  to  shade  a  little  in  hot  sunshine,  but  the 
glass  should  be  covered  with  mats  at  night.  In  a  couple  of  weeks  tiny  white  roots  will 
be  seen  coming  out  from  the  mound  of  soil.  Then  another  inch  or  so  may  be  added  all 
over  the  bed,  and  that  will  suffice  for  the  season.  A  gentle  watering  should  be  given  each 
other  day,  and  the  leafage  syringed  each  afternoon  just  as  the  sun  is  going  off. 

After  Culture  consists  chiefly  in  keeping  shoots  fairly  thin,  admitting  a  little  air,  fre- 
quent dampings  or  syringings,  and  should  green-fly  appear  on  the  leaves,  giving  an  occa- 
sional smoking  with  tobacco,  filling  the  frame  with  smoke,  and  covering  it  up  close  for  a 
few  hours,  when  no  doubt  the  insects  will  be  found  dead.  A  hot-bed  of  this  description 
should  not  be  made  up  until  the  middle  of  April,  as  by  the  time  the  heat  is  gone  the  sun 
will  be  warm  enough  to  satisfy  the  plants'  needs.  Attacks  of  red  spider  or  thrips  on  the 
leaves,  causing  them  to  turn  brown  and  wither  up,  are  the  result  chiefly  of  keeping  the 
soil  and  plants  too  dry. 

House  Culture. — For  forcing  Cucumbers  early  the  best  description  of  house  is  one  that 
is  low  and  narrow,  having  beds  on  either  side  of  soil  on  which  the  plants  may  be  grown, 
and  plenty  of  hot-water  piping  to  keep  up  a  good  heat.  But  where  there  is  only  a  small 
house  with  little  heat  the  beginner  should,  as  for  a  frame,  purchase  strong  plants  in  pots 
from  a  florist  rather  than  attempt  to  raise  them,  as  that  involves  so  much  trouble  and 
loss  of  time.  In  such  a  house  a  very  large  flower-pot  or  a  box  12  inches  wide  and  broad, 
and  10  inches  deep,  will  do  for  the  soil,  or  that  may  be  with  some  turf  at  the  bottom  and 
sides  built  up  in  the  form  of  a  mound,  2  feet  across  and  12  inches  deep  in  the  middle,  the 
plants  being  put  out  in  or  on  these  things  singly.  If  pits  or  boxes  be  used  they  should 
have  large  holes  in  them  to  allow  water  to  percolate  through.  The  best  drainage 
consists  of  rough  pieces  of  old  broken  turf,  the  soil  as  advised  for  frames  being  placed 
upon  it.  If  there  be  no  artificial  heat  in  the  house  it  will  be  best  to  wait  before 
planting  until  the  middle  of  May,  when  strong  plants  may  be  put  out  safely.  Such  plants 
after  they  make  a  strong  leading  shoot,  which  at  12  inches  long  has  to  be  pinched  back, 
soon  produce  several  shoots.  These  must  be  trained  to  wires  or  laths  secured  just  about 
10  inches  under  or  below  the  glass  roof,  and  in  time  these  shoots  will  cover  a  large 
area  in  this  way.  It  will  be  needful  occasionally  to  cut  or  pinch  out  some  of  the  non- 
fruitful  shoots,  or  otherwise  the  plants  will  become  far  too  crowded.  Male  flowers,  which 
are  not  fruit  producers,  come  first  and  numerously.  Female  flowers  appear  on  the  points 
of  the  fruit,  and  usually  open  after  the  fruits  are  from  i  to  2  inches  in  length.  It  is  needful 
to  fertilise  these  by  using  pollen  from  the  male  flowers  only  when  seed  fruits  are  needed, 
but  to  get  proper  fruits  for  table,  fertilising  the  flower  is  wrong,  as  the  fruits  are  less  fitted 
for  eating. 

House  Cucumbers  need  frequent  syringings,  indeed  quite  twice  daily,  except  when  the 
weather  is  dull  and  cold.  The  door  of  the  house  where  the  plants  are  may  be  partially 
open  during  the  day,  but  must  be  shut  close  up  at  night.  Damp  down  the  paths  and 
staging  then  to  generate  a  moist  atmosphere  which  the  plants  like,  whilst  plants  thus 
grown  will  need  a  liberal  watering  every  other  day.  Later,  when  several  fruits  have  been 
out,  it  is  well  to  make  some  weak  liquid  manure  and  give  them  a  good  watering  with 
that  at  least  once  a  week.  It  is  wise,  however,  in  all  cases  not  to  allow  water  to  come 
into  close  contact  with  the  main  stems. 

Varieties  of  Cucumber  for  glass  culture  are  numerous,  amongst  the  best  being  Lockie's 
Perfection,  Telegraph,  Rochford's  Market,  Peerless,  Matchless,  and  Sutton's  Ai,  the 
latter  three  being  specially  good  for  exhibition.  For  ordinary  frame  culture  Sutton's  A  i 
and  Telegraph  are  the  best. 

Endive. — This  is  a  leaf  salad,  hardier  than  Lettuce,  and  suited  only  for  winter  use. 
When  properly  grown  and  blanched  white,  the  leaf  hearts  of  the  plants  make  excel- 
lent food.  One  sowing  of  seed  usually  suffices  for  ordinary  needs.  That  sowing  may  be 
made  about  the  third  week  in  July,  thinly,  in  a  bed  in  the  open  ground.  When  the  plants 
are  strong  they  should  be  lifted  carefully  and  dibbled  out  in  rows  12  inches  apart,  on 


VEGETABLE   GROWING  407 

borders  or  beds  made  to  slope  somewhere  to  the  south.  There,  needing  only  an  occasional 
hoeing,  they  remain  and  become  quite  strong.  There  are  two  forms,  the  Curled  and  the 
Broad-leaved  or  Batavian.  Both  are  hardy.  When  fully  grown  the  former  is  best 
blanched  by  covering  the  plants  close  on  a  dry  day  with  boards  or  slates,  tiles,  or 
similar  materials,  as  by  thus  excluding  light  and  air  the  hearts  become  white  and  tender. 
When  such  is  the  case  they  can  be  cut  and  eaten.  The  Batavian  Endive,  being  of  more 
erect  habit,  can  be  blanched  by  tying  up  the  leaves  closely.  A  second  planting  rather 
later  can  usually  be  made  from  the  one  sowing,  and  thus  a  succession  is  obtained.  In 
some  cases,  plants  when  of  full  size  are  lifted  with  balls  of  soil  attached  to  the  roots, 
and  blocked  in  close  together  in  a  dark  frame,  or  cellar,  or  outhouse,  but  kept  absolutely 
dark,  and  in  that  way  are  easily  blanched.  Some,  failing  other  conveniences,  maybe  put, 
a  dozen  at  a  time,  into  large  boxes,  which  can  be  covered  up  close  with  lids  or  newspapers. 

Horse-Radish. — A  little  of  this  in  a  garden  is  very  useful.  Short  sets  or  crowns 
should  be  planted  in  deeply  cultivated  soil  in  February. 

Kohl  Rabi. — During  recent  years  the  small  or  garden  forms  of  this  vegetable  have 
become  popular.  It  somewhat  resembles  a  green  turnip,  and  seeds  should  be  sown  in 
April  in  shallow  drills  15  inches  apart.  Thin  as  advised  for  Turnips,  which  see.  Good 
varieties  are  Earliest  White  and  Short-top  Green. 

Leeks. — These  edible  stem  plants  deserve  far  wider  culture  than  they  usually  get.  Pos- 
sibly some  prejudice  against  them  exists  because  they  belong  to  the  Onion  family,  but  their 
perfume  and  taste  are  not  strong,  and  they  are  really  excellent  as  a  cooked  vegetable  when 
properly  blanched,  as  the  process  of  blanching  the  stems  takes  away  all  strong  flavours. 
Leeks  can  be  easily  raised  from  seed,  and  a  gardener  in  a  small  way  may  raise  sufficient 
plants  for  his  first  crop  by  sowing  seed  in  a  lo-inch  shallow  pan  filled  with  fine  soil,  standing 
it  in  a  frame  to  promote  germination.  That  may  be  done  early  in  April.  The  young  plants, 
when  4  inches  in  height,  may  be  lifted  from  this  seed-pan,  and  be  dibbled  up  thinly  into 
shallow  boxes,  or  under  a  hand-light,  or  in  a  frame,  where  they  become  strong  and  well- 
rooted  in  about  a  couple  of  weeks.  From  thence  lifted  carefully  with  balls  of  soil  and 
roots,  and  transplanted  into  a  trench  as  prepared  for  Celery,  growth  soon  goes  on,  and  in 
a  little  time  some  soil  maybe  put  around  the  stems,  this  going  on  all  the  summer,  and  by 
the  end  of  August,  or  soon  after,  the  plants  will  have  stout  stems,  blanched  as  white  as  snow, 
to  a  height  of  from  10  inches  to  12  inches.  These  may  be  lifted  and  trimmed,  and  cooked 
as  required.  A  second  sowing  may  be  made  outdoors  about  the  middle  of  May.  From  this 
plants  can  be  put  out,  as  before  described,  late  in  the  summer,  and  they  will  be  hardy  enough 
when  well  earthed  up  to  stand  the  winter,  and  give  stems  over  a  long  season  and  at  a  time 
when  vegetables  are  scarce.  Stems  such  as  are  usually  furnished  at  exhibitions  are  very 
large,  quite  as  big  round  as  broom  handles.  These  are  far  too  big  for  ordinary  table  use. 
Those  about  the  dimensions  of  an  ordinary  walking  stick  are  better.  Many  persons  are 
content  to  dibble  their  plants  out  into  rows  18  inches  apart,  letting  the  stems  down  in 
dibbling  them  quite  4  inches,  and  then  later,  as  the  plants  grow,  adding  a  little  soil  to 
them.  But  it  is  much  better  to  prepare  trenches  with  manure  buried  into  them,  as  is  done 
for  Celery,  as  growth  is  quicker,  and  the  blanched  stems  are,  when  cooked,  more  tender. 
There  are  a  few  slightly  diverse  varieties  of  Leeks,  but  under  ordinary  cultivation  one  is 
about  as  good  as  another.  For  exhibition,  the  Champion,  Exhibition,  and  Lyon  are 
esteemed  the  best,  and  they  are  equally  so  for  ordinary  garden  culture. 

Lettuce. — The  most  popular  and  widely-consumed  of  all  leaf  or  heart  salads  is  Lettuce, 
and  it  can  be  had  good  for  a  long  season.  There  are  two  diverse  forms,  one  being  tall, 
and  erect,  called  Cos,  the  other  of  dwarf  form,  somewhat  squat,  and  hearting,  and 
called  Cabbage.  There  are  white,  green,  and  reddish  lines  in  both  sections,  and  some  of 
the  latter  are  much  curled.  Both  are  good,  although  some  consumers  prefer  the  latter 
form  for  eating.  Seed  is  cheap  and  plentiful.  Sowings  may  be  made  at  frequent  intervals, 
beginning  in  March  under  glass,  sowing  thinly  in  a  shallow  box  or  plan,  and  standing  it 
in  a  frame  or  greenhouse  ;  then  having  the  young  plants,  when  a  few  inches  high,  lifted  out 
and  dibbled  2  inches  apart  into  other  boxes,  or  else  into  a  frame,  or  under  hand-lights, for 
a  few  weeks,  when  they  are  strong  enough  to  plant  outdoors  on  to  a  warm  border  to 
give  a  supply  for  early  cuttings.  Both  Cos  and  Cabbage  forms  may  be  so  sown.  A 
further  sowing  may  be  made  on  a  warm  border,  and  rather  more  largely,  early  in  April, 
and  others,  always  quite  small  ones,  in  succeeding  months,  as  in  that  way  a  supply  of 
plants  for  cutting  is  kept  up.  The  latest  sowing  should  be  made  about  the  middle  of 
September,  in  a  frame  filled  with  soil  to  within  a  few  inches  of  the  top.  Such  a  sowing 
should  be  of  Hick's  Hardy  Green  Cos,  and  Black  Seeded  Brown  Cos.  These  are  amongst 
the  hardiest,  and  can  be  kept  as  strong  seedling  plants  through  the  winter,  ready  to  plant 
out  in  March  in  a  sheltered  position.  The  latest  sowing  for  outdoors  in  the  summer 
should  be  made  about  the  middle  of  August  of  the  above-named  varieties  and  of  Hardy 
Cabbage  varieties.  These  can  be  planted  out  at  the  end  of  September  beneath  walls,  or 
on  warm,  sloping  banks  or  borders,  to  stand  the  winter.  Summer  Lettuces  are  most  valu- 


40  8 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


able,  because  the  leafage  is  so  cool  and  pleasant  to  eat  in  hot  weather.  A  good  variety  to 
stand  heat  is  Mammoth  White  Cos ,  but  when  planted  from  June  onwards  the  position  should 
be  partially  shaded,  the  soil  deeply  worked,  and  where  ample  water  can  be  given.  When 
the  position  is  hot  and  dry  the  plants  do  not  heart  in,  but  bolt  off  to  flower.  Whilst  in 
the  summer,  beds  planted  with  Lettuce  may  be  made  to  slope  to  the  north,  in  the  winter 
they  should  slope  to  the  south.  Very  thick  sowing  results  in  the  production  usually  of  far 
more  plants  than  are  needed,  and  so  many  that  are  weak  and  drawn.  Thin  sowing  and 
early  planting  out  thinly  from  seed-pans  or  beds  prevent  weakness  and  a  drawn  growth. 
Lettuces,  being  in  the  young  stage  tender  and  succulent,  are  much  relished  by  slugs  and 
snails.  It  is  therefore,  in  planting  out,  needful  to  dust  about  the  plants  freely,  especially 
at  night,  with  fresh-slacked  lime  or  good  soot.  This  needs  to  be  followed  up  for  a  couple 
of  weeks  after  each  planting  until  the  plants  become  hard.  Cabbage  Lettuces  need  no 
tying,  as  naturally  they  heart  in  firmly,  neither  should  any  good  stock  of  tall  or  Cos 
Lettuce ;  the  practice  of  tying  them  with  bast  or  raffia  is  carried  out  chiefly  to  assist  the 
hearts  to  form  and  become  blanched  earlier. 

Varieties. — Of  Cos  or  tall  varieties  the  finest  is  the  Mammoth  White  Cos  for  summer, 
and  Black  Seeded  Brown  Cos  for  winter.  Of  Cabbage  varieties,  Hardy  Hammersmith 
and  Grand  Admiral  are  good  for  winter,  and  Holborn  Standard,  All  the  Year  Round, 
Matchless,  and  Heartwell  for  summer  use. 

Maize  or  Sweetcorn. — This  is  a  very  popular  vegetable  in  America,  and  during 
recent  years  has  been  cultivated  on  a  small  scale  in  this  country.  Seed  should  be  sown 
in  March  or  early  April  in  pans  or  boxes  filled  with  rich  light  soil,  and  when  large  enough 
the  seedlings  should  be  potted  singly  into  5-inch  pots.  Grow  as  near  the  glass  of  warm 
frame  or  greenhouse  as  possible,  and  from  mid-April  onwards  give  as  free  ventilation  as 
possible,  the  idea  being  to  get  sturdy,  hard  plants.  When  the  pots  are  filled  with  roots 
give  weak  liquid  manure  once  or  twice  a  week.  The  plants  must  not  be  put  in  their  per- 
manent quarters  until  the  first  or  second  week  in  June.  Select  a  warm  place  in  the  garden, 
trench  the  soil  thoroughly,  and  heavily  manure  it  a  few  weeks  previous  to  planting.  The 
rows  must  be  2  feet  or  2  feet  6  inches  apart,  and  the  plants  2  feet  apart  in  the  rows. 
Plentiful  supplies  of  water  must  be  afforded  during  dry  weather,  as  quick  growth  is  essen- 
tial. The  seed  spikes  or  cobs  are  the  part  used  as  a  vegetable,  these  being  picked  whilst 
green,  and  gently  boiled  with  the  outer  coat  intact.  Good  varieties  are  Early  Yellow, 
Quarantain,  and  White  Sugar  Cane.  Variegated  forms  are  often  used  in  the  flower 
garden.  Their  cultivation  is  as  advised  above. 

Mushroom. — This  acceptable  fungus  is  artificially  grown  both  outdoors  and  indoors. 
The  common  method  for  outdoor  culture  is  to  make  up  beds  in  ridge  form  of 
stable  manure  and  spawning  them.  The  manure  must  be  that  of  horses,  and  of  those 
that  are  healthy  only.  This  should  be  one-half  of  droppings,  the  rest  of  rather  short 
straw.  When  there  is  much  long  straw  the  greater  portion  should  be  shaken  out.  The 
manure  should  be  kept  in  an  open  shed,  or,  if  otherwise,  when  in  a  heap,  covered  up 
with  mats.  As  soon  as  collected  it  should  be  well  shaken  up,  mixed,  and  put  into  a 
neat  heap.  If  it  seems  dry,  then  it  should  have,  as  the  turning  takes  place,  a  liberal 
sprinkling  of  water.  The  turning  should  be  repeated  in  some  five  or  six  days,  or  when 
the  heap  is  found  to  have  become  hot  again.  If  found  dry,  more  water  should  be  given. 
A  third  turning  may  be  needful  to  get  the  manure  into  good  condition,  and  after  that  it 
can  be  built  up  into  a  bed,  having  a  base  2%  feet  wide  and  the  same  height  in  the 
centre,  trodden  firm  as  put  together.  The  heat  of  the  bed  should  be  tested  with  a  stick 
forced  into  it,  and  as  soon  as  found  to  be  hot  pieces  of  mushroom  spawn,  such  as  are  pur- 
chased in  dry,  square  cakes  from  seedsmen,  should  be  well  forced  into  the  surface  of  the 
bed  at  some  8  inches  apart  all  over  it.  The  cakes  may  be  cut  each  into  some  eight  pieces. 
Next  coat  the  bed  over  with  2  inches  rather  close  loam  from  a  pasture,  give  a  good 
watering,  using  tepid  water,  then  cover  it  up  well  with  a  thick  coat  of  straw  litter,  and  if 
it  be  winter  then  cover  with  mats  also.  Beds  of  this  description  produce  mushrooms  in 
about  two  months.  They  can  be  made  from  September  until  April.  If  beds  be  made 
slantwise  or  sloping  under  a  wall  or  in  a  shed  or  cellar  they  must  be  from  properly  pre- 
pared manure  as  described,  be  solid,  spawned,  and  covered  up. 

Onions. — Sowing  seed  of  these  somewhat  odorous  bulbs  was  formerly  limited  to  two 
seasons — the  spring  and  late  summer.  Now  it  is  a  common  practice  to  sow  seed  under 
glass  in  January,  putting  the  plants  outdoors  in  April  to  grow  into  extra  large  bulbs. 
Being  somewhat  deep  rooters  and  gross  feeders,  Onions  need  both  a  deeply  worked  and 
well-manured  soil.  Many  growers  adopt  the  rule  of  putting  Onions  on  the  same  ground 
every  year ;  others  alternate  the  crops,  Onions  one  year,  Cabbages  or  Peas  the  next.  But 
whether  the  ground  be  so  cropped  or  whether  several  crops  follow  the  Onions,  it  is 
indispensable  that  the  ground  be  always  trenched  fully  2  feet  in  depth  during  the  winter 
to  secure  a  good  crop  of  bulbs  and  have  a  heavy  dressing  of  well-decayed  manure  worked 
into  it,  especially  putting  some  down  deep  to  attract  roots  to  it,  and  thus  furnish  them 


VEGETABLE   GROWING  409 

with  a  liberal  supply  of  food  and  moisture  during  dry  weather.  A  method  of  getting 
ground  into  fine  condition  for  Onions  is,  after  trenching  and  burying  a  dressing  of  manure 
deep  into  it,  to  give  to  the  surface  a  further  dressing  of  well-decayed  short  manure, 
forking  that  in  several  inches  deep,  then  leaving  the  soil  to  settle  down  for  several  weeks 
before  sowing  the  seed.  It  is  the  nature  of  Onion  plants  to  send  roots  down  deep  and 
direct,  but  they  like  the  soil  fairly  firm  on  the  surface,  as  that  tends  to  force  the  plants 
into  bulb  formation  all  the  sooner. 

Times  of  Sowing  Seed. — What  is  commonly  called  the  spring  sowing  of  the  main 
crop  is  usually  made  in  the  month  of  March  or  early  in  April.  The  condition  of  the  soil 
and  nature  of  the  weather  must  determine  the  exact  time,  but  it  is  always  well  to  re- 
member that  the  tops  of  very  early  raised  plants  often  suffer  from  sharp  spring  frosts. 
The  usual  practice  is  to  strain  a  garden  line  across  the  plot  of  ground  to  be  sown,  and  by 
its  aid  then  with  a  hoe  to  draw  shallow  drills  12  inches  apart,  sowing  the  seed  thinly  along 
these,  and  covering  it  up  with  soil.  If  the  soil  be  naturally  light,  loose,  or  porous,  it  is 
wise  before  drawing  the  drills  to  either  tread  it  over  evenly  or  to  run  a  light  roller  over  it, 
as  that  makes  it  firmer.  After  filling  in  the  drills  the  whole  plot  should  be  neatly  raked  over 
and  trodden  when  dry.  The  customary  autumn  sowing  is  made  from  the  2oth  to  the  3Oth 
of  August  under  similar  conditions,  but  in  this  case  the  ground  need  not  be  specially 
prepared  if  it  has  carried  a  crop  of  early  Potatoes,  Peas,  or  some  other  vegetable, 
and  for  these  has  been  previously  trenched  or  deeply  dug  and  manured.  It  may  be 
but  needful  to  lightly  fork  over  the  surface  to  level  it  and  enable  the  seed  to  be  sown. 
As  the  plants  have  to  stand  outdoors  all  the  winter  it  is  unwise  to  have  the  soil  too  rich, 
as  if  the  plants  be  coarse  or  unduly  gross  they  may  be  killed  by  severe  frosts.  The 
seed  sowings  may  be  moderately  thin  in  both  cases,  as  where  the  plants  are  thicker  in 
the  rows  much  labour  is  necessary  later  in  thinning  them,  and  there  is  also  much  waste 
of  seed.  Even  though  many  plants  be  used  for  salading  in  a  young  state  it  is  not  well  to 
allow  them  to  remain  to  become  large  enough  for  that  purpose  in  the  rows  that  are  to  be 
thinned  for  the  main  crops.  It  is  so  much  better  to  sow  one  or  two  extra  rows  more 
thickly  with  seed  expressly  for  pulling  when  large  enough,  and  clearing  the  plants 
entirely  as  wanted.  From  the  autumn  sown  breadths  it  is  good  practice  in  March  to  lift 
some  plants  carefully  so  as  to  preserve  the  roots,  and  to  dibble  them  out  into  rows  12 
inches  apart,  the  plants  being  6  inches  from  each  other  in  the  rows.  If  the  planting  be 
carefully  done  so  that  the  roots  go  down  well  into  the  holes  and  be  firmly  fixed,  the  bases 
of  the  plants  just  being  covered,  and  the  ground  has  been  well  prepared,  much  finer  bulbs 
usually  result  than  in  the  rows  of  the  plants  left  where  sown.  As  a  rule  the  thinning  of 
the  autumn-sown  plants  is  not  done  until  March  or  thereabouts. 

General  Culture  after  thinning  consists  of  a  free  use  of  the  hoe  between  the  rows 
through  the  growing  season,  and  an  occasional  dressing  of  soot  or  of  some  artificial 
manure  or  guano  in  showery  weather,  having  it  well  hoed  in.  That  washes  down  and 
greatly  assists  the  formation  of  fine  bulbs.  Still  it  is  best  to  give  these  dressings  after 
bulbs  have  begun  to  form.  It  is  also  good  practice  to  go  over  the  plants  when  strong  and 
well  advanced,  and  to  gently  press  the  stems  just  above  where  bulbs  are  being  formed,  to 
cause  the  tops  or  leaves  to  rest  on  the  ground  and  all  one  way.  That  practice  not  only 
gives  the  bed  a  neat  appearance,  but  it  assists  the  plants  to  form  bulbs,  which  is  the 
primary  object  in  Onion  culture.  But  very  stiff-necked  plants  should  be  dealt  with  care- 
fully lest  they  break  off.  The  bulbs  from  a  spring  sowing  are  usually  ripe  to  pull  ready 
for  storing  for  the  winter  about  the  end  of  August  or  early  in  September.  They  should 
remain  on  the  ground  to  dry  thoroughly  for  a  couple  of  days,  if  it  does  not  rain.  If  rain 
prevails  then  the  crop  should  be  pulled  and  put  under  cover  before  cleaning  off  decayed 
stems  and  final  storing  in  a  cool  shed  or  store  on  shelves  for  the  winter.  Where  the 
thinning  has  been  properly  done,  the  plants  being  about  4  inches  apart,  usually  a  very 
firm,  even  sample  of  bulb  is  produced.  Autumn  sown  bulbs  are  usually  thinned  down  to 
9  inches  apart.  These  are  ripe  for  pulling  towards  the  end  of  July  or  thereabouts. 

Winter-Sowing. — To  raise  bulbs  of  great  size  and  weight,  the  practice  is  to  sow  seed 
in  shallow  pans  or  boxes  filled  with  light  soil  about  the  first  week  in  January.  The 
seed  is  sown  moderately  thick,  then  the  pan  or  box  is  stood  in  a  frame  or  greenhouse 
where  there  is  a  little  warmth,  and  kept  near  the  light;  growth  follows  in  a  couple  of 
weeks.  When  the  plants  are  3  inches  in  height  they  must  be  lifted  from  the  seed-boxes 
and  be  dibbled,  2  inches  apart  each  way,  into  other  shallow  boxes,  or  singly  into  3-inch 
pots,  filled  as  before  with  light  soil,  well  watered  ;  then  stood  on  shelves  or  near  the  grass. 
There  they  must  remain  until  the  plants  have  become  6  inches  in  height.  Then  put  the 
boxes  into  a  cold  frame,  where  the  plants  get  plenty  of  light  and  air.  Every  care  must 
be  taken  to  keep  the  plants  erect,  which  they  will  be  when  well  exposed  to  the  light. 
Planting  outdoors  is  done  from  the  middle  to  the  end  of  April,  the  ground  for  these 
plants  having  been  previously  trenched  and  manured  as  advised  for  the  spring  sown 
crop.  The  rows,  marked  out  with  a  line,  should  be  16  inches  apart,  very  shallow  drills 


4io  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

being  first  drawn.  Into  these  put  the  plants  at  12  inches  apart,  lifting  them  from  the 
boxes  with  a  garden  trowel,  so  as  to  retain  to  each  a  nice  ball  of  soil  and  roots.  Only 
these  balls  but  no  portion  of  the  stems  should  be  buried  in  the  soil,  well  fixing  them, 
and,  if  needful,  watering  in.  Because  thus  early  raised,  and  having  so  much  space 
between  them,  the  plants  make  very  strong  growth,  and  later  in  the  summer  produce 
exceptionally  large  bulbs.  Good  growers  commonly  obtain  bulbs  weighing  from  2  Ib. 


Varieties. — The  common  pickling  form  is  the  Silver-Skinned,  but  almost  any  ordi- 
nary variety  sown  thick  and  left  to  form  bulbs  unthinned  will  produce  picklers.  The 
ordinary  time  for  sowing  these  is  in  April. 

Winter- Sowing. — To  obtain  exhibition  bulbs  the  finest  stocks  are  Ailsa  Craig, 
Cranston's  Excelsior,  and  Sutton  Globe,  oval-shaped  ;  and  Lord  Keeper,  Ai,  and  Main 
Crop,  round. 

Spring-Sowing. — Fine  oval  varieties  are  those  above-named  and  Southport  Red 
Globe,  James'  Keeping,  and  Champion ;  of  rounds,  Improved  Banbury,  Improved 
Reading,  and  Rousham  Park  Hero. 

Autumn- Sowing. — Any  of  the  above  varieties,  or  of  softer  onions,  Giant  Rocca, 
White  Leviathan,  Globe  Tripoli,  and  Carter's  Record. 

Parsnips. — Hardier  than  are  most  of  the  summer  grown  roots,  a  sowing  may  be  made 
so  soon  as  early  in  March,  or  at  any  time  during  that  month,  if  the  soil  be  in  good  con- 
dition for  sowing  seed.  Generally  but  one  sowing  of  this  root  crop  is  made,  as  the  roots 
are  not  required  for  consumption  until  the  winter,  and  are  not  acceptable  then  until 
matured  by  a  long  season's  growth.  To  secure  clean,  well-shaped,  though  not  neces- 
sarily long  roots,  the  ground  should  invariably  be  trenched  during  the  winter,  and  have 
added  a  moderate  dressing  of  manure  well  buried  down  to  encourage  the  main  or  tap 
root  to  go  deep  rather  than  favouring  the  formation  of  side  roots,  which  fresh  manure 
near  the  surface  promotes.  Drills  for  the  seed  should  be  12  inches  apart,  and  be  about 
2  inches  in  depth.  In  sowing  the  seed,  place  it  thinly  equally  along  the  drills,  as 
otherwise  much  is  wasted,  and  great  labour  in  thinning  the  plants  later  is  entailed.  This 
thinning  should  be  done  when  the  plants  are  3  inches  in  height.  Prior  to  that  the  soil 
between  the  rows  will  be  all  the  better  for  a  free  deep  hoeing,  as  that  facilitates  thinning 
the  plants  afterwards.  The  thinning  should  be  to  fully  8  inches  apart,  but  if  extra  large 
roots  are  desired,  10  inches  apart  is  not  too  much.  During  the  summer  and  autumn  the 
only  culture  needed  is  by  the  frequent  use  of  the  hoe  between  the  plants  to  keep  the  soil 
loose  and  clean.  As  Parsnips  are  quite  hardy,  the  roots  may  be  left  in  the  ground  all 
the  winter,  provided  that  either  some  litter  or  soil  be  placed  over  the  crowns  of  the  roots 
in  hard  weather  to  exclude  frost.  It  is  a  good  plan,  however,  to  lift  every  alternate  row 
from  a  bed,  and  store  the  roots  in  dry  sand,  ashes,  or  soil  in  any  cold  place  under  cover, 
merely  cutting  off  the  leaf  stems  an  inch  from  the  crowns.  Then  there  is  ample  space 
between  the  other  rows  to  mould  soil  over  them,  but  it  is  quite  soon  enough  to  do  that 
early  in  the  new  year,  as  until  then  frost  is  seldom  hard  enough  to  do  Parsnips  harm.  All 
experience,  however,  goes  to  prove  that  roots  left  in  the  ground  keep  so  much  fresher  and 
sweeter  than  are  those  earlier  lifted  and  stored.  Roots  of  medium  size,  clean,  and  just 
scraped  over  and  left  white,  then  boiled  slowly  in  sufficient  water  to  cover  them  in  the 
pot,  the  water  gradually  boiling  away  until  the  roots  are  soft,  are,  when  served  to  table, 
far  more  acceptable  as  food  than  are  roots  peeled,  cut  to  pieces,  and  boiled  in  water  all 
the  time.  It  is  probably  largely  due  to  lack  of  knowledge  how  best  to  cook  Parsnips 
that  these  most  nutritious  roots  are  less  eaten  than  they  should  be.  There  are  few 
varieties.  The  most  commonly  grown  is  the  Hollow  Crown,  and  the  whitest  selection 
from  that  variety  is  Tender  and  True,  which  is  so  far  the  best  in  commerce.  A  good 
stock  of  The  Student  is  very  good  also.  It  is  better  in  all  cases  to  secure  clean  roots 
of  medium  size,  as  they  are  less  watery  than  are  large  ones,  and  furnish  the  best  food. 

Peas. — These  pod-bearing  plants,  because  productive  only  during  the  summer  season, 
have  special  need  for  deeply  worked  soil,  to  enable  roots  to  go  down  in  search  of  moisture 
and  food.  Where  Peas  are  sown  on  a  light  soil  that  is  only  dug  12  inches  deep,  they 
invariably  fail  to  produce  a  satisfactory  crop  in  warm  weather.  When  the  soil  is  trenched 
2  feet  deep,  and  a  good  dressing  of  decayed  manure  buried  into  it,  then  the  plants 
invariably  keep  vigorous  and  healthy,  and  carry  a  fine  crop  of  pods.  These  are  elemen- 
tary facts  that  every  beginner  in  gardening  should  understand.  Then  a  too  common 
fault  in  Pea  culture  is  sowing  seed  far  too  thickly  in  the  drills.  Now  a  proper  Pea 
drill  should  be  fully  4  inches  deep,  drawn  with  a  large  hoe  quite  straight  beside  a  line  of 
cord,  and  be  fairly  broad  at  bottom.  But  in  the  case  of  large-seeded,  wrinkled  marrow 
Peas,  especially  if  the  plants  reach  from  5  feet  to  6  feet  in  height,  a  pint  should  be  made 
to  sow  100  feet  length  of  rows.  That  means  thin  sowing  certainly.  If  the  plants  range 


PEA  MAYFLOWER,  A   GOOD  FIRST  EARLY   VARIETY. 


POTATO  ROYALTY,  A  WHITE  MID-SEASON  VARIETY  (See  Page  413). 


VEGETABLE   GROWING  411 

to  a  height  of  3  feet,  then  make  a  pint  of  seed  sow  from  80  feet  to  90  feet  run,  and  if  quite 
dwarf,  that  is,  from  18  inches  to  20  inches  in  height,  then  the  sowing  may  be  a  little 
thicker.  These  instructions  should  be  carefully  borne  in  mind,  as  it  is  a  common  fault 
to  sow  a  pint  of  peas  in  a  row  from  40  feet  to  50  feet  in  length.  When  plants  are  thick, 
naturally  they  fail  to  find  root  room,  or  plant  room  later,  and  suffer  accordingly.  Then, 
when  rows  of  Peas  are  sown  side  by  side,  the  drills  for  tall  Peas  should  be  6  feet  apart, 
3  feet  to  4  feet  Peas  4  feet  apart,  and  the  dwarf  ones  from  2  feet  to  2j  feet  apart.  Tall 
Peas  should  be  sown  only  where  the  soil  is  deep,  holding,  and  rich,  and  when  it  is 
intended  to  support  them  with  branching  stakes.  Peas  of  medium  height  pay  well  for 
such  staking,  but  if  sown  to  remain  on  the  ground,  as  field  Peas  do,  the  rows  need  not 
be  more  than  3  feet  apart. 

Times  of  Sowing. — Little  is  gained  by  very  early  sowing,  except  on  a  warm,  sunny 
border,  close  under  a  wall.  But  even  then  if  one  be  made  early  in  February,  it  is  soon 
enough.  A  second  may  follow  at  the  end  of  the  month  also  on  a  --warm  border,  and 
from  that  time  two  sowings  per  month  may  be  made  in  the  open  ground  up  to  the  end 
of  May.  That  course  should  give  a  long  succession,  especially  if  the  latest  sowings  be  of 
naturally  late  varieties  such  as  do  best  in  the  autumn. 

Varieties. — There  are  literally  hundreds  of  so-called  varieties  of  Peas  in  trade,  but 
many  of  them  differ  almost  only  in  name.  One  great  feature  of  present  day  Peas  is  that 
all  the  best  now  are  of  the  wrinkled  marrow  form,  and  these  are  much  better  than  are 
the  old  round-seeded  varieties.  All  the  class  known  as  wrinkled  produce  seeds  when  ripe 
that  are  much  shrivelled  in  appearance,  but  when  sown  soon  absorb  moisture,  then 
swell  up  and  become  double  the  previous  size.  These  Peas  have  higher  flavour  and 
more  sugar  in  them  than  the  round  varieties.  Still  further  they  produce  much  finer  and 
better  filled  pods,  and  generally  heavier  crops.  There  is  little  need  now  to  sow  any  of 
the  old  hard-seeded  varieties  in  gardens,  indeed  they  are  chiefly  sown  in  the  fields  for 
early  market  gatherings.  Of  good  early  varieties  the  best  are  Chelsea  Gem,  Carter's 
Eight  Weeks,  Early  Morn,  Little  Marvel,  Dwarf  Gem,  Pilot,  Mayflower,  Button's  First 
of  All,  Gradus,  Laxtonian,  and  Thomas  Laxton.  Second  earlies :  Webb's  Paragon, 
Defiance,  New  Model,  Carter's  Daisy,  Buttercup,  Sutton's  Centenary,  Prizewinner,  and 
Dwarf  Defiance.  Main  crop  :  Peerless,  Quite  Content, (Eureka,  Senator,  Ne  Plus  Ultra, 
King  George,  Universal,  Gladstone,  Glory  of  Devon,  Omega,  Autocrat,  Telephone,  and 
Carter's  Michaelmas.  For  latest  crops  choose  Ne  Plus  Ultra,  Gladstone,  and  Carter's 
Michaelmas. 

Pea  Diseases. — One  material  trouble  to  which  Pea  plants  are  subject  arises  from 
attacks  of  those  exceedingly  minute  insects  called  thrips.  These  suck  the  sap  from  the 
leaves,  and  cause  them  to  turn  pale  and  become  thin.  When  that  is  so  the  crop  suffers. 
An  occasional  syringing  very  gently  with  some  insecticide  helps  to  destroy  these  pests. 
Great  heat  and  drought  generate  them.  In  the  same  way  mildew  is  often  generated. 
That  is  best  destroyed  by  gently  syringing  or  spraying  the  plants  with  the  Bordeaux 
mixture,  a  solution  of  equal  quantities  of  sulphate  of  copper  and  lime  with  water.  A 
couple  of  dressings  usually  kills  the  mildew ,  but  does  the  Pea  plants  no  harm. 

The  Potato  (Solatium  tuberosum). — Were  a  teacher  about  to  examine  a  class  as  to 
the  knowledge  of  the  members  respecting  the  Potato,  no  doubt  the  first  question  would 
be,  "  From  what  part  of  the  world  did  it  come,  and  when  ?  "  Taking  the  last  point  first 
it  is  sufficient  to  say  that  the  Potato  was  introduced  into  Europe  rather  more  than 
300  years  ago,  and  that  Sir  Walter  Raleigh  (the  famous  navigator  of  the  Elizabethan 
era)  is  credited  with  its  introduction  into  England.  But  whilst  exact  data  on  this  matter 
may  be  of  small  moment,  it  is  of  importance  that  we  should  know  accurately  as  to  its 
native  habitat,  and  the  pupil's  reply  would  be  that  it  came  from  South  America,  chiefly 
from  Peru,  Chili,  and  Brazil,  where  it  grows  as  a  wild  plant,  having  somewhat  coarse 
stem  and  leaf  growth,  and  creates  in  the  ground  numerous  small  tubers  that  were  found 
to  be  edible.  The  importance  of  knowing  of  its  habitat,  a  very  warm  part  of  the  world, 
is  that  we  in  cold  Europe  have  to  grow  it  under  conditions  such  as  most  assimilate  to 
those  of  South  America.  Hence  we  find  it  still  to  be  a  very  tender  plant,  exceedingly 
susceptible  to  harm  from  frosts,  or  other  climatic  troubles,  the  tubers  also  being  too 
tender  to  be  exposed  to  frost  during  the  winter.  Down  to  the  beginning  of  the 
nineteenth  century  the  Potato  seems  to  have  made  comparatively  little  progress.  But 
since  that  time  it  has  been  greatly  changed  under  the  influence  of  intercrossing,  of 
selection  and  of  culture,  so  that  now  we  have  the  finest  varieties  in  the  whole  world,  and 
grow  the  tubers  as  articles  of  vegetable  food  of  importance  to  the  human  family  second 
only  to  wheat. 

Propagation. — All  growers  of  the  Potato  find  it  is  easy  enough  to  make  stocks  to 
increase  by  means  of  the  root  tubers  so  abundantly  produced  by  the  plants.  Commonly 
the  lesser  ones  are  utilised  as  seed  tubers  for  planting,  the  larger  ones  being  eaten.  But 
it  is  of  the  first  importance  that  the  tubers  be  for  these  diverse  purposes  differently 


4I2 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


treated.  All  tubers  to  be  eaten  as  food  when  cooked  must  be  kept  secluded  from  light 
in  soil  pits  or  clamps  made  outdoors,  but  well  covered  with  straw  and  soil  to  exclude  rain 
or  frost,  or  they  must  be  kept  in  cellars  or  dry  sheds  well  covered  up.  The  object  in 
excluding  light  is  to  prevent  the  tubers  from  becoming  green,  as  they  will  be  if  thus 
exposed  to  light,  and  when  so  greened  be  quite  unfit  for  eating.  The  seed  tubers,  on  the 
other  hand,  need  to  be  so  kept  that,  whilst  dry  and  free  from  frost,  yet  they  have  ample 
light  and  air,  so  that  the  skins  by  such  exposure  become  hard,  and  when  later  in  the 
winter  the  eyes  or  buds  begin  to  shoot  or  burst  into  growth,  such  shoots  as  may  be  formed 
will  then  be  stout,  strong,  and  green,  andean  be  retained  on  the  tubers  for  planting. 
Were  the  tubers  kept  in  darkness,  the  shoot  made  from  the  eye  would  be  long,  weak, 
and  blanched,  and  in  that  way  worthless,  while  their  production  would  rob  the  tubers 
of  much  nutriment,  and  check  the  production  of  strong  shoots  when  planted. 

Preserving  Seed  Tubers.— The.  best  and  simplest  method  of  doing  this  satisfactorily  is 
to  have  shallow  trays  or  boxes  made  from  thin  boards.     These  may  be  but  4  inches  deep 


FIG.  26. 


Produce  from  Sets  with  only  one  strong 
Shoot  when  planted. 


Several  Stems  and  small  Tubers 
due  to  bad  storage. 


inside,  and  be  of  such  sizes  as  may  be  preferred.  Those  of  14  inches  by  18  inches  hold 
quite  a  large  number  of  seed  tubers,  which  should  be  stood  in  the  boxes  with  their  shoot 
or  bud  ends  upwards,  and  close  together.  If  a  strip  of  stout  wood  be  fastened  to  each 
end  of  the  box  to  form  a  handle,  great  convenience  for  moving  and  planting  are  furnished. 
These  boxes  may  be  stood  in  quite  a  cool,  airy  place  during  open  weather,  and  be 
stacked  close  together  and  covered  up,  or  removed  into  a  less  cold  position  when  frosts 
threaten.  It  is  difficult  to  overestimate  the  value  of  such  treatment  meted  out  to  seed 
tubers,  as  the  crops  from  such  cared-for  sets  are  usually  double  in  bulk  to  those  that 
result  from  badly  wintered  tubers,  especially  as  bad  storing  always  tends  to  weaken  the 
stock.  Only  one  or  two  of  the  strongest  shoots  should  be  left  in  each  tuber  at  planting 
time,  rubbing  the  weakest  out.  If  all  are  left  a  lot  of  small  tubers  will  result. 

Raising  from  Seed. — The  Potato  as  grown  now,  with  the  object  of  securing  the 
greatest  possible  crop  of  tubers  or  root  produce,  seldom  produces  seed  naturally,  although 
the  plants  will  in  the  summer  bloom  profusely.  The  plants  seem  incapable  of  carrying 
at  once  abundant  root  tubers  and  seed  balls  or  apples  which  contain  seed.  Those  who 
wish  to  raise  Potatoes  from  seed  must  obtain  pollen  or  fine  fertile  dust  from  the  flowers 
of  one  variety,  and  employ  it  to  fertilise  the  pistil  points  of  one  or  two  flowers  on  some 
other  variety,  and  thus  induce  the  bloom  to  set,  to  carry  seed,  balls  or  apples.  These 
when  ripe  can  be  saved,  kept  in  a  box  in  a  dry  place  for  the  winter,  when  only  seed 
and  skins  will  be  left.  The  seeds  may  then  be  cleaned,  and  about  the  middle  of  April 
sown  in  pans  on  fine  soil,  and  be  stood  in  a  greenhouse  or  frame  to  germinate.  Later 
the  young  plants  have  to  be  dibbled  thinly  into  shallow  boxes,  and  from  these  at  the 
end  of  May  be  transplanted  into  the  open  ground  in  rows,  2  feet  apart,  for  the  summer. 


VEGETABLE   GROWING  413 

Planting  the  Sets. — A  fairly  light,  deep  soil  suits  the  Potato  well.  It  need  not 
necessarily  be  rich  with  fresh  manure  ;  generally  it  is  best  to  manure  well  for  some  pre- 
vious vegetable  crop,  and  then  follow  with  Potatoes.  But  the  soil  should  always  be 
deeply  worked,  and  broken  quite  loose.  Very  early  varieties  may  be  planted  on  a  warm 
border  during  March,  but  some  protection  from  frost  must  be  furnished  to  the  plants. 
For  all  ordinary  purposes  and  main  crops,  it  is  early  enough  to  plant  from  the  second  to 
the  fourth  weeks  in  April.  Moderate  growing  varieties  may  be  put  into  rows  at  2  feet 
apart,  and  strong  late  growers  should  be  in  rows  30  inches  apart.  A  good  depth  to 
plant  is  from  4  to  5  inches.  In  the  rows  the  sets  should  be  from  12  to  15  inches  apart. 
There  is  no  gain  in  planting  closer,  and  often  much  loss  in  doing  so.  As  to  methods  of 
planting,  the  tubers  must  be  properly  buried  in  the  soil  from  4  to  5  inches  deep  without 
injuring  the  shoots  on  them.  On  light,  loose  soils  a  large  dibble,  shod  with  iron, 
answers  very  well,  but  generally  it  is  best  to  plant  as  the  ground  is  being  dug,  or,  if 
previously  dug,  to  throw  out  furrows  of  the  above  depth,  setting  the  tubers  into  them 
carefully.  If  any  artificial  manure  be  employed,  it  is  a  good  plan  to  strew  it  into  the 
furrows  with  the  tubers. 

Moulding  the  Plants. — This  treatment  is  given  to  Potatoes  for  some  two  or  three 
reasons,  but  chiefly  because  were  soil  not  heaped  over  the  tubers  many  would  be  exposed 
to  the  air,  and  they  would  thus  become  green  and  unfit  for  food.  A  good  ridge  of  soil 
drawn  about  the  plants  also  helps  to  keep  the  stems  erect  and  protected  from  harm  by 
strong  winds.  Prior,  however,  to  the  moulding  up,  the  soil  should  be  very  freely  hoed 
so  as  to  destroy  weeds,  and  render  the  surface  loose  and  pulverised.  The  moulding  up 
is  ordinarily  done  with  the  long-handled  hoe,  but  the  greatest  care  should  be  taken  not 
to  bury  leaves,  rather  to  draw  up  the  soil  under  them.  A  good  moulding  up  to  a  sharp 
ridge  also  helps  to  throw  off  heavy  rains  from  the  tubers,  and  also  those  fungus  spores 
which  produce  the  disease.  It  is  often,  when  the  soil  is  rather  poor,  good  practice  to 
sprinkle  from  3  Ib.  to  4  Ib.  per  rod  of  nitrate  of  soda  or  sulphate  of  ammonia  between 
the  rows  of  plants  before  the  moulding  up  is  performed.  When  lifting  the  crop,  the 
medium-sized  tubers  should  be  gathered  up  separately,  and  be  exposed  to  the  light  and 
air  to  harden  them,  whilst  the  larger  ones  intended  for  eating  should  be  put  into  a  dry 
place,  and  secluded  from  light  and  air. 

The  Potato  Disease. — This  is  a  trouble  our  Potato  crops  are  never  free  from.  But  they 
surfer  less  in  warm,  dry  seasons,  and  more  in  wet  ones.  The  disease  is  a  fungus  propa- 
gated by  minute  spores  that  become  living  and  active  germs  during  the  summer,  and, 
lodging  on  the  plants,  are  by  moisture  induced  to  root  or  grow  into  the  leafage  and  stems, 
as  also  in  the  newly-forming  tubers  in  the  soil,  and  thus  produce  those  black  spots  with 
which  we  have  long  been  made  familiar.  Only  one  form  of  dressing  seems  so  far  to 
have  been  capable  of  checking  the  growth  of  these  spores  on  the  plants,  and  that  is 
found  in  what  is  called  the  Bordeaux  mixture,  which  consists  of  equal  portions  of  sulphate 
of  copper,  or  bluestone,  and  of  fresh  lime,  dissolved  in  water.  If  5  Ib.  of  bluestone  be 
put  into  a  bag  and  suspended  in  a  wooden  tub  containing  5  gallons  of  boiling  water,  it 
will  dissolve  in  24  hours ;  and  5  Ib.  of  lime  should  be  dissolved  in  a  large  pail  hold- 
ing 5  gallons  of  water  until  quite  clear.  The  latter  liquid  should  be  mixed  with  the 
copper  solution,  and  to  the  whole  add  40  gallons  of  water.  It  will  be  wise  to  add  5  Ib. 
of  soft  soap,  well  dissolved,  to  the  mixture,  to  render  it  more  adhesive.  This  mixture  is 
then  sprayed  by  the  aid  of  a  knapsack-distributer  over  the  Potato  plants,  giving  one 
dressing  early  in  July  and  a  second  towards  the  end  of  the  month.  Such  dressings 
usually  suffice  to  keep  the  breadths  quite  free  from  harm  by  the  Potato  fungus. 

Varieties. — These  are  very  numerous,  and,  because  new  ones  are  annually  introduced, 
are  constantly  varying  in  popularity. 

First  Earlies  for  frame,  pot,  or  border  culture:  Ashleaf,  Sir  J.  Llewelyn,  May 
Queen,  kidneys  ;  Harbinger,  and  Laxton's  First  Crop,  rounds.  Earlies  for  open 
ground:  Puritan,  Midlothian  Early,  Snowdrop,  kidneys  ;  Early  Regent,  Snow- 
ball, and  Ninetyfold,  rounds.  Main  Crop  Varieties :  Up-to-Date,  Royalty, 
and  Reading  Giant,  kidneys ;  Imperator,  Windsor  Castle,  Balmoral  Castle,  and 
The  Factor,  rounds.  These  are  all  whites.  King  Edward  VII  is  a  good  Main 
Crop  Potato  with  red  blotches  on  the  skin. 

Radishes. — These  are  very  varied  in  character,  as  they  include  long  tapering,  oval, 
and  round  roots,  in  diverse  colours  ;  also  for  winter  use,  round  and  tapering  large  roots, 
black,  white,  and  red.  Radishes  are  eaten  raw  as  salading,  the  most  favoured  being 
those  oval  or  round  rooted  forms  that  come  in  early  in  the  spring.  Seed  of  those  should 
be  sown  evenly  on  ground  that  has  been  heavily  manured,  the  dressing  being  just  buried 
with  soil.  The  first  sowing  may  be  made  in  February,  the  rest,  following  at  fortnightly 
intervals,  being  small  ones.  When  the  seed  is  sown  it  should  be  very  lightly  covered 
with  fine  soil,  then  patted  down,  watered,  and  covered  with  long  litter  or  netting  to  keep 
off  birds.  As  growth  follows,  the  covering  may  be  removed.  It  is  simply  needful  to 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

repeat  this  form  of  culture  all  the  summer.  It  is  of  little  use  to  sow  Radish  seed  in  poor 
ground,  as  growth  is  too  slow,  the  roots  become  hot  or  hard,  and  the  plants  soon  bolt 
off  to  flower.  Water  should  be  given  freely  in  dry  weather  when  sowings  are  made 
regularly  and  often  a  mere  patch  of  a  few  yards  in  area  is  ample  for  single  sowings.  The 
earliest  of  all  is  the  Red  Globe  Short-Top,  but  there  are  few  better  ones  than  the  round 
and  globe-shaped  French  Breakfast,  with  their  white  tips,  and  these  may  be  followed  by 
the  red  and  white  turnip-rooted.  Those  who  like  long  Radishes  may  prefer  the  Long 
Salmon  and  Wood's  Early  Frame,  but  for  these  the  soil  should  be  deeply  worked  ;  the 
roots  are  also  a  few  days  longer  in  coming  to  maturity.  In  all  cases  roots  soon  become 
woolly  or  hollow,  hence  it  is  important  to  sow  often.  To  have  winter  Radishes  of  fail- 
size  it  is  well  tolsow  seeds  on  good  ground  in  June  and  July,  having  the  plants  in  drills 
12  inches  apart,  where  they  can  be  moderately  thinned.  The  best  of  these,  all  excellent 
when  peeled  and  sliced  for  winter  salads,  are  the  long  black,  white,  and  carmine 
varieties. 

Rhubarb. — A  very  useful  and  popular  edible  stem  plant.  Rhubarb  is  easily  grown, 
yet  it  needs  to  be  grown  well.  Plants  can  be  raised  by  sowing  seed  outdoors  in  May 
thinly,  in  a  drill,  thinning  out  the  seedlings  to  20  inches  apart,  but  especially  saving 
those  which  seem  to  be  the  earliest  and  strongest  as  well  as  that  show  most  colour  in 
the  stems.  After  the  leafage  has  died  down  in  the  winter,  these  roots  should  be  lifted  and 
planted  out  on  to  deep,  well-manured  ground,  in  rows  4  feet  apart,  and  3  feet  apart  in  the 
rows.  So  treated,  they  soon  become  strong,  and  give  plenty  of  stems. 

But  seedling  Rhubarbs  are  of  several  varieties,  whilst  plants  obtained  by  division  are 
true  to  name.  If,  therefore,  no  roots  be  at  hand,  a  few  can  be  purchased  cheaply 
from  the  nursery  or  seedsman.  These  will  be  stout  and  fleshy,  and  have  one  or  two 
crowns.  They  should  be  planted  as  advised  for  the  seedlings,  during  November  or 
December,  and  some  long  litter  manure  laid  about  them  as  a  protection  from  frost, 
because  newly  planted.  Growth  will  commence  in  March,  but  no  stems  should  be  pulled 
from  these  plants  that  year.  The  following  spring  they  will  break  up  very  strong,  and 
many  stems  may  be  pulled  then  up  to  the  middle  of  May.  Then  the  plants  will  again 
make  strong  growth  for  the  rest  of  the  season,  and  should  be  left  alone.  Winter  culture 
consists  in  spreading  over  the  ground  between  the  plants  a  dressing  of  manure,  which 
may  be  lightly  forked  in,  and  just  over  the  crowns  may  be  put  some  light  litter,  as  that 
helps  to  promote  quicker  growth  in  the  spring.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  put  out  a  few  new  or 
small  roots  each  year,  as  after  the  third  year  the  roots,  then  large,  may  be  lifted  as 
wanted,  some  two  or  three  at  a  time,  beginning  in  January,  and  be  stood  in  any  warm, 
dark  place,  with  soil  about  them  and  watered,  when  stems  will  soon  be  produced,  and 
thus  give  very  early  Rhubarb ;  or,  if  preferred,  some  roots  may  be  simply  covered  up  out- 
doors with  tubs,  boxes,  or  big  pots,  and  these  with  long  manure  or  leaves,  and  thus  in- 
duced to  make  early  growth  for  pulling.  Once  a  good  stock  of  roots  is  obtained,  a  few 
should  be  lifted  and  divided  every  year  for  planting  as  advised.  Roots  should  never 
remain  more  than  four  years,  if  they  do  well,  without  being  divided.  The  best  varieties 
are  Hawke's  Champagne,  early  ;  Hobday's  Giant  and  Victoria  for  later  use. 

Small  Salads.  — Of  these  the  best  and  most  commonly  grown  are  Mustard  and  Cress. 
Market  growers  use  Rape  instead  of  Mustard,  as  it  is  less  hot  and  far  cheaper.  In  a  small 
way  the  best  method  of  growing  these  salads  is  to  have  several  boxes,  each  about 
12  inches  by  20  inches,  and  3  inches  deep.  They  should  be  filled  with  good  loam 
and  well-decayed  manure,  and  have  on  the  surface  a  thin  top  of  fine  sandy  soil  well 
pressed  down,  and  within  a  third  of  an  inch  of  the  top  of  the  box.  On  to  that  the  seeds 
of  Mustard  and  of  Cress,  in  separate  boxes,  may  be  thickly  sown,  pressed  down,  and  well 
watered,  then  covered  up  with  newspapers  and  stood  in  a  frame  or  greenhouse.  The 
Cress  being  of  slower  growth  should  be  sown  24  hours  before  the  Mustard.  It  is  im- 
portant that  the  boxes  be  covered,  the  plant-growth  lifting  up  the  paper  bodily,  as  that 
causes  rapid  development,  and  the  salading  is  more  tender.  A  couple  of  fresh  boxes 
should  be  sown,  and  similarly  treated  each  week,  all  through  the  spring  and  summer. 
If  sown  outdoors  it  should  be  under  hand-lights,  as  otherwise  growth  is  slow  and  hard. 
Another  valuable  small  salad  is  Watercress,  which  is,  of  course,  best  grown  in  small 
streams,  but  may  be  had  very  good  all  the  same  in  any  small  garden  if  a  bed  be  made 
near  a  pump-tap  or  well,  where  watering  twice  a  day  can  be  given.  The  bed  should  be 
prepared  in  March  by  forking  into  quite  a  small  space,  say  3  feet  by  4  feet,  a  good  dressing 
of  short  manure.  Strew  over  the  surface  some  sharp  sand  and  a  little  shingle  or  well- 
washed  small  gravel,  then  dibble  in,  4  inches  apart,  Cress  tops  partially  rooted,  water 
them,  and  shade  with  paper  or  other  thin  material  for  a  few  days.  Rooting  soon  follows, 
then  growth,  and  if  the  bed  be  watered  in  dry  weather  twice  a  day,  considerable  gather- 
ings may  be  had  over  a  long  season.  A  ridge  of  soil  a  few  inches  in  height  may  be 
placed  round  the  bed.  Watercress  can  also  be  raised  by  sowing  seed  in  a  pan  under 
glass,  then  dibbling  the  plants  out  as  advised  into  a  bed  when  strong  enough. 


VEGETABLE   GROWING  415 

Salsafy  and  Scorzonera. — These  are  long  tapering-rooted  plants  that  do  not  obtain 
the  wide  cultivation  they  deserve.  The  Salsafy  has  long,  narrow  leafage,  and  long, 
narrow,  white  roots.  Scorzonera  has  broader  leaves  and  dark-skinned  roots.  The  former 
enjoys  on  the  Continent  the  designation  of  vegetable  oyster,  so  nice  are  the  roots  when 
properly  cooked.  Seed  of  both  plants  should  be  sown  about  the  middle  of  April  in 
shallow  drills,  12  inches  apart,  and  on  soil  that  has  been  deeply  dug.  When  the  weather 
is  dry  it  is  well  to  thoroughly  water  the  drills  an  hour  before  sowing  the  seeds.  The 
plants  when  4  inches  in  height  need  to  be  thinned  out  to  from  3  to  4  inches  apart  in  the 
rows.  The  hoe  should  be  freely  used  between  them  during  the  summer.  Roots  of  both 
kinds  are  cooked  and  sent  to  table.  They  can  be  used  from  October  onwards  during  the 
winter,  but  the  roots  should  have  some  protection  in  hard  weather. 

Seakale. — This  is  a  hardy  British  plant.  Seakale,  as  its  name  implies,  is  partial  to 
the  sea  coast.  But  it  thrives  well  in  any  ordinary  garden  soil,  provided  that  be  well 
prepared  for  it.  To  obtain  a  supply  or  stock  of  roots,  it  is  needful  to  sow  seed.  That 
can  be  purchased  cheaply.  For  its  reception,  ground  should  be  trenched  2  feet  deep  and 
well  manured.  Then,  early  in  April,  drills,  2  inches  in  depth,  should  be  drawn  with  hoe 
and  line  at  20  inches  apart.  Along  these  the  seeds  should  be  sown  thinly,  and  then 
covered  up.  It  is  not  desirable,  as  the  seed  leaves  are  rather  tender,  that  the  plants 
should  be  above  ground  until  the  middle  of  May.  When  all  are  up  they  should  be 
rigidly  thinned  out  in  the  rows  to  10  inches  apart,  as  later  on  they  need  ample  room.  The 
ground  needs  to  be  kept  well  hoed  as  long  as  the  strong  leafage  which  will  presently  form 
will  allow,  but  later  that  will  quite  cover  the  ground.  In  -the  late  autumn,  being  mature, 
it  will  die  away.  In  November  the  whole  of  the  roots  may  be  carefully  lifted  so  as  to 
preserve  them  intact,  then  each  one  must  be  hard  trimmed  of  all  branching  or  side 
roots  cut  off  close  to  the  main  or  tap  root,  which,  when  thus  trimmed,  should  be  about 
8  inches  long,  and  have  a  dormant  crown  at  the  tip.  When  trimming  off  all  side 
roots  the  pieces  should  be  carefully  laid  one  way,  so  that  the  upper  ends  be  known. 
But  the  first  thing  next  to  do  is  to  chop  down  in  the  open  ground  with  a  spade  a 
trench  or  furrow,  8  inches  deep,  and  nearly  upright.  Into  this  the  crowns  should  be 
placed  on  end  upwards,  quite  close  together,  and  some  soil  put  up  to  them  and 
gently  trodden,  as  well  as  a  little  over  the  crowns.  All  these  roots  may  be,  a  few  at  a 
time,  through  the  winter  put  into  boxes  or  tubs,  or  on  the  floor  of  a  close,  dark  cellar, 
or  in  any  warm  but  quite  dark  place,  in  several  inches  of  soil,  and  well  watered,  and 
from  each  crown  will  come  stems,  that  being  in  the  dark  will  he  blanched  white  and 
tender,  and  when  7  inches  long  may  be  cut  with  a  part  of  the  crowns  and  cooked.  It  is 
then  a  most  delicious  vegetable,  and  lasts,  if  there  be  plenty  of  roots,  for  some  three  or 
four  months.  All  the  side  roots  trimmed  off  should  then  be  made  into  proper  root 
cuttings.  These  should  be  from  4  to  5  inches  long.  The  top  part  should  be  quite  level, 
and  the  lower  part  slanting.  Then  all  these  root  cuttings  should  be  stood  into  trenches 
just  deep  enough  to  bury  the  tops  when  being  placed  thickly ;  soil  is  put  against  them 
and  a  little  over  them.  Let  that  be  done  in  November.  Planting  may  be  done  at  the 
end  of  March  or  early  in  April.  For  the  reception  of  these  cuttings  the  ground  should  be 
well  trenched  and  manured,  as  is  so  constantly  advised.  The  cuttings  should  be  dibbled 
into  it  in  rows  20  inches  apart,  and  12  inches  apart  in  the  rows,  to  give  ample  room.  The 
tops  of  the  cuttings  should  be  buried  half  an  inch  in  the  ground.  When,  in  a  few  weeks, 
leaves  appear,  each  root  should  be  gone  over,  and  all  but  one  crown  removed.  The 
ground  must  be  well  hoed,  and  one  dressing  of  salt  or  nitrate,  at  the  rate  of  5  Ib. 
per  rod,  well  hoed  in,  will  do  great  good.  The  roots  will  have  to  be  lifted  and  treated 
each  winter  just  as  advised  for  the  seedlings,  and  trimmed,  root  cuttings  being  preserved 
and  again  planted  in  fresh  soil.  In  that  way  it  is  easy  to  have  hundreds  of  roots  to 
blanch  during  the  winter,  arid  no  vegetable  is  mere  profitable.  To  have  some  late 
blanched  growths,  some  of  the  rows,  if  only  one  or  two,  may  be  left  in  the  ground,  and 
early  in  March  have  some  light,  loose  soil  placed  over  them  in  a  ridge,  and  9  inches  deep. 
When  the  ground  shows  signs  of  cracking,  rows  should  be  cut  from  at  one  end  until  all 
are  consumed.  These  roots  may  remain  to  produce  crowns  if  desired  for  the  following 
winter. 

Shallots  are  small,  fairly  hardy  bulbs,  members  of  the  Onion  tribe,  that  are  grown 
yearly  by  the  aid  of  small  bulbs  or  offsets,  planted  in  beds  or  in  rows,  12  inches  apart,  in 
February.  The  ground  for  these  bulbs  should  be  deeply  dug,  and  moderately  manured. 
Planting  may  be  done  in  the  autumn,  but  early  in  February  is  the  safest  time  to  do  so. 
If  planted  in  a  bed,  let  the  rows  be  12  inches  apart,  putting  in  the  bulbs  at  6  inches  apart. 
These  should  not  be  of  the  largest  or  smallest,  but  those  of  medium  size  and  good 
form.  It  is  but  needful  to  press  each  bulb  down  firmly  into  the  soil,  so  that  its  top  is  just 
covered.  Growth  soon  begins.  Several  stems  usually  grow,  and  each  one  forms  a  bulb 
at  the  base,  so  that  when  the  tops  die  down  and  the  bulbs  are  ripe,  ready  to  lift  in  July, 
they  are  in  the  form  of  clusters  of  some  seven  to  nine  in  number.  If,  after  planting,  sharp 


416 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


frosts  come,  it  may  be  wise  after  they  have  disappeared  to  make  the  soil  about  the  roots 
somewhat  firm.  Not  large,  but  nice,  clean,  even-sized  bulbs  are  best.  They  are  appre- 
ciated for  pickling,  and  for  soups  and  stews.  The  best  variety  is  the  Old  Shallot,  which 
has  a  brown,  silky  skin  ;  and  the  largest  is  the  Red  Jersey  or  Russian,  which  is  double  the 
size  and  very  productive,  but  is  of  stronger  flavour. 

Spinach. — This  is  a  very  useful,  hardy,  green-leaved  vegetable  that  is  easily  raised  from 
seed,  and  can  be  had  over  a  long  season.  Its  nature  when  gathered  and  cooked  is  some- 
what bitter  or  astringent,  but  when  properly  prepared  and  sent  to  table  with  condiments 
that  bitterness  is  toned  down  and  becomes  rather  pleasant.  Spinach  is  a  very  healthy 
product,  and  should  be  more  largely  consumed  than  is  usually  the  case.  Seed  is  both 
smooth  and  prickly,  but  all  varieties  have  those  characteristics.  It  is  customary  to 
recommend  sowing  round  or  smooth  seed  in  the  summer  and  prickly  seed  in  the  autumn 
for  a  winter  stock,  but  that  is  a  mere  seed  fancy.  Without  doubt  the  best  varieties  are 
for  summer  the  Long  Slander,  which  has  large,  thick,  green  leaves,  and  if  well  thinned 
out  to  9  inches  apart  in  the  rows,  stands  much  longer  before  running  off  to  flower  than 
any  other.  That  and  the  Victoria  or  Viroflay,  very  large  leaved,  are  the  best  for  winter 
cropping.  The  drills  should  be  fully  12  inches  apart,  drawn  shallow,  and  the  seed  be 
sown  thinly.  Spinach  needs  good  liberally  manured  and  deeply  dug  soil.  The  earliest 
sowing  may  be  made  on  a  warm  border  about  the  middle  of  March,  and  others  for 
succession  every  three  or  four  weeks,  not  large  ones,  but  to  give  a  good  succession.  The 
final  sowing  should  be  made  about  the  third  week  in  August,  as  that  will  begin  giving 
leaves  in  November  and  form  the  supply  all  the  winter  till  quite  the  end  of  March.  In 
all  cases  leaves  only  should  be  gathered,  but  not  until  the  plants  have  become  strong. 
Besides  thinning  the  plants,  the  hoe  should  be  freely  used  between  the  rows  in  all  seasons, 
not  only  to  destroy  weeds,  but  also  to  keep  the  soil  open  and  loose.  New  Zealand 
Spinach  is  a  very  useful  vegetable  in  late  summer  and  autumn.  As  the  plants  spread 
about  a  lot  seed  should  be  sown  thinly  in  May  in  drills  6  feet  apart.  The  young  tops  are 
picked  for  use,  and  the  more  these  are  gathered  the  more  the  plants  spread.  New 
Zealand  Spinach  does  not  run  to  seed,  and  is  available  for  use  until  killed  by  frosts. 

Tomatoes. — These  plants  are,  like  Potatoes,  very  tender,  and  so  closely  allied  to  them 
that  it  has  been  found  possible  to  graft  Tomatoes  on  to  Potato  stems,  and  thus  exhibit 
the  strange  phenomenon  of  Potato  tubers  in  the  ground  on  the  roots  and  Tomatoes  above 
the  ground  on  the  stems.  But  the  Tomato  is  a  Lycopersicum  and  not  a  Solanum.  They 
are,  however,  tender,  and  can  be  grown  outdoors  only  during  the  summer  months,  but 
may  be  grown  at  any  time  in  glasshouses  when  sufficient  warmth  is  produced.  Still  it  is 
never  wise  to  attempt  to  fruit  the  plants  in  glasshouses  during  midwinter,  for,  because  of 
the  lack  of  sunshine,  the  fruits  are  few  and  quite  flavourless.  All  the  plants  are  easily 
raised  from  seed,  as  each  fruit  produces  seeds  in  abundance.  These,  where  any  are 
saved  specially  for  one's  own  growing,  may  easily  be  taken  from  the  fruits  by  cutting 
them  clean  through  crosswise,  removing  the  seeds  from  the  cells  with  a  knife,  washing 
and  drying  them,  then  saving  in  a  paper  bag  until  wanted  to  sow.  In  saving  fruits  for 
seed  always  select  one  of  the  finest  and  handsomest  from  a  plant  that  fruits  well,  as  in 
that  way  a  good  stock  is  obtained.  Where  it  is  desired  to  keep  any  stock  true,  only  that 
one  variety  should  be  grown  in  one  house. 

Sowing  Seed. — Generally  it  is  best  to  make  sowings  in  pots  of  from  5  to  6  inches 
across  the  tops,  putting  an  inch  depth  of  broken  crocks  or  rubble  into  the  bottoms,  on  to 
that  some  of  the  coarser  soil  used,  then  filling  up  with  a  compost  of  loam,  leaf  soil,  and 
sharp  sand.  Press  the  soil  into  the  pots  fairly  firmly,  and  leave  it  the  third  of  an  inch 
below  the  tops  of  the  rims.  Sow  the  seeds  evenly  and  singly  over  the  soil,  putting  about 
fifteen  seeds  into  a  5-inch  pot  and  twenty-four  into  a  6-inch  pot.  Then  place  over  them 
fine  soil  the  thickness  of  a  penny  piece,  water  gently,  and  stand  in  a  frame  or  green- 
house. Until  the  seeds  make  growth  it  is  well  to  place  a  sheet  of  thin  paper  over  the  pots 
to  shade  them  if  the  sunshine  be  strong.  But  whilst  seed  sown  thus  in  April  or  May  will 
germinate — that  is,  grow  very  well  without  the  aid  of  artificial  warmth — if  sowings  be 
made  earlier  some  such  warmth  is  needful,  as  growth  will  be  slow  and  very  weak.  But 
it  is  seldom  necessary  to  sow  seeds  before  the  middle  of  April,  and  then  the  sun  usually 
warms  a  frame  or  greenhouse  sufficiently.  Even  then  if  the  pots  be  stood  in  a  box  large 
enough  to  hold  four  of  them  and  a  sheet  of  glass  laid  over  the  box,  great  help  is  given  to 
the  seeds.  Where  there  is  no  glasshouse  plants  may  be  raised  in  such  a  box  thus  covered 
with  glass,  if  stood  in  a  sunny  place  in  a  garden.  Of  course,  some  covering  should  be 
given  to  it  at  night. 

General  Treatment. — When  seedling  plants  are  some  2  inches  in  height  and  show 
what  are  called  rough  or  second  leaves,  it  will  be  needful  to  lift  them  carefully  with  the 
aid  of  a  pointed  stick  from  the  seed  pots,  and  put  them  singly  into  quite  small  or  3-inch 
pots,  still  using  sharp  sandy  soil,  and  giving  each  pot  some  drainage.  In  thus  potting 
the  seedlings  place  them  down  so  as  to  bury  one-half  of  their  stems.  When  all  are  done, 


VEGETABLE   GROWING  417 

water  gently,  then  stand  them,  whether  in  a  frame,  or  greenhouse,  or  in  a  glass-covered 
box,  as  close  to  the  glass  as  possible.  Water  should  be  given  sparingly,  as  the  little 
plants  are  apt  to  damp  off  if  over  watered.  In  three  weeks  it  should  be  needful  to  shift 
the  plants  into  5-inch  pots,  still  keeping  the  stems  down  a  little  into  the  fresh  soil  as 
roots  break  from  them.  After  being  in  these  pots  for  a  fortnight,  and  under  glass,  the 
plants  should  be  ready  to  plant  out  in  a  greenhouse,  or  to  be  put  into  large  pots  or  boxes 
for  similar  growth,  or  be  planted  outdoors  into  a  warm  position. 

House  or  Frame  Culture. — The  common  method  of  growing  Tomatoes  under  glass 
by  amateurs  is  in  large  pots.  The  method  is  one  of  the  best  generally,  as  the  roots  are 
kept  under  control.  Pots  for  this  purpose  should  be  10  inches  across  the  top.  A  few 
rough  pieces  of  potsherd  should  be  placed  in  the  bottom,  on  that  some  coarse  pieces  of 
turfy  loam,  and  then  filled  with  a  compost  of  turfy  loam,  old  hot-bed,  mushroom-bed,  or 
well-decayed  stable  droppings,  in  the  proportion  of  one-fourth  to  three  parts  of  loam.  A 
little  wood  ash  may  be  added,  as  also  a  pint  of  bone-meal  to  a  bushel  of  the  whole  com- 
post, and  well  mixed.  As  the  pots  are  filled  the  soil  should  be  pressed  into  them  firmly, 
then  the  plants  from  the  5-inch  pots  set  into  the  centres,  and  keep  the  stems  still  some- 
what down.  Then  the  pots  should  be  placed  close  together  in  a  row  where  the  plants 
are  to  be  grown,  the  stems  then  being  about  12  inches  apart.  Generally  it  is  best  to 
raise  the  pots  on  a  stout  shelf  or  plank  to  within  20  inches  of  the  roof,  if  to  be  so  trained, 
then  tying  the  stems  loosely  but  securely  as  they  grow  to  wires,  fixed  some  10  inches 
from  the  roof.  As  growth  ensues  all  side  shoots  which  break  out  from  the  base  of  every 
leaf  must  be  hard  pinched  off.  Flower  trusses  break  out  from  the  main  stem,  and  so 
long  as  the  plants  are  kept  watered  and  have  occasional  soakings  of  liquid  manure,  after 
fruits  are  well  set,  and  also  warmth  is  kept  up,  the  plants  will  go  on  fruiting  if  kept  for 
that  purpose  until  nearly  the  end  of  November.  Where  pots  are  not  to  be  had  boxes 
20  inches  long  and  9  inches  wide  and  deep  will  carry  two  plants  very  well.  In  the  case 
of  market  growers,  Tomatoes  are  generally  planted  out  on  the  house  floors,  and  trained 
up  erect ;  but  that  is  not  a  method  to  advise  for  beginners  or  those  who  have  but  small 
houses,  as  for  them  nothing  excels  pot  or  box  culture.  Where  a  house  or  frame  is  not 
provided  with  fixed  wires  it  is  easy  to  fix  strips  of  wood,  or  thin  stakes,  or  bamboo  rods 
in  a  slanting  direction,  and  running  just  under  the  glass  roof.  The  plants  always  fruit 
more  freely  when  trained  in  this  way  than  when  trained  upright.  Besides  keeping  the 
side  shoots  pinched  off,  it  is  only  needful  to  secure  the  stems  (not  too  tightly),  as  they 
will  swell  later,  to  the  supports  with  raffia,  grass,  or  some  other  soft  material,  and  pinch 
out  the  points  or  leaders  of  the  plants  when  they  reach  the  full  length  of  their  supports. 

Setting  the  Flowers. — Very  often  amateur  growers  find  it  difficult  to  induce  the  flowers 
to  set  fruit  at  the  first.  Sometimes  giving  the  stems  of  the  bunches  a  gentle  tapping  two 
or  three  times  a  day  helps  to  that  end.  Other  growers  hold  a  piece  of  white  paper  under 
the  flowers,  on  to  which  by  a  vigorous  shaking  some  of  the  pollen  will  fall,  then  take  it 
up  on  a  camel's-hair  brush  and  touch  the  points  of  the  pistils  or  the  little  points  which 
project  from  out  of  the  centre  of  the  flowers.  Tomatoes  in  houses  or  frames  like  plenty 
of  light  and  air,  which  is  better  rather  dry  than  wet.  There  is  no  need  to  use  the  syringe, 
and  in  watering  it  is  not  well  to  leave  puddles  or  slops  about,  as  such  over-damping 
does  harm.  Even  in  watering  it  is  better  to  keep  the  soil  a  little  too  dry  than  too  wet. 
Too  liberal  waterings,  especially  when  the  fruits  are  ripening,  greatly  tend  to  cracking  of 
the  skins,  and  that  is  an  evil,  as  mildew  soon  settles  in  the  cracks  and  injures  the  fruits. 

Outdoor  Culture.— Plants  should  not  be  put  into  any  position  outdoors  earlier  than 
the  end  of  May,  and  even  then  should  have  some  protection  from  rough  winds  and  night 
frosts  until  the  end  of  the  month.  When  planted  against  a  warm,  sunny  wall  or  fence  it 
is  easy  to  furnish  the  desired  protection  by  hanging  sacks,  mats,  or  some  other  material 
over  them  at  night.  When  plants  are  put  on  to  a  border,  or  in  the  open  garden,  the  first 
or  second  week  in  June  is  soon  enough.  If  planted  against  a  wall  or  fence,  the  ordinary 
garden  soil  is  sufficiently  good  as  a  rule,  but  if  poor  a  little  well-decayed  manure  may  be 
first  dug  in,  the  soil  being  made  fairly  firm.  Then  the  plants  turned  out  of  their  pots 
may  be  planted  12  inches  apart  close  to  the  wall.  If  they  be  rather  tall  it  is  well  to 
secure  them  by  putting  a  cloth  shred  round  each  stem,  which  can  be  secured  to  the  wall 
with  a  nail.  But  plants  properly  grown  should  not  be  tall  or  drawn,  but  be  stout,  sturdy, 
and  well  leaved.  Of  course,  nailing  becomes  essential  as  the  plants  grow  in  height.  In 
the  case  of  those  put  into  the  open  ground  the  rows  should  be  2^  feet  apart,  and  the 
plants  15  inches  apart  in  the  rows.  It  is  a  very  good  plan  to  drive  in  a  stout  stake  that 
will  stand  3^  feet  out  of  the  ground,  just  where  each  plant  is  to  be  put.  Thus  a  proper 
support  is  ready  when  needed.  It  is  not  desirable  to  allow  open-air  Tomatoes  to  grow 
higher  than  some  3^  feet,  as  beyond  that  height  fruits  will  not  ripen.  Keep  the  side 
shoots  of  outdoor  Tomatoes  pinched  as  in  the  case  of  those  under  glass.  In  very  hot, 
dry  weather  water  occasionally,  and  place  about  over  the  soil  a  good  mulch  of  long 
manure,  as  that  serves  to  retain  moisture  and  checks  drying. 

2  D 


4i 8  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

Varieties  of  Tomatoes. — There  is  an  endless  number  of  varieties.  There  are  smooth, 
round  and  egg-shaped,  both  red  and  yellow.  There  are  large  and  quite  small  fruited, 
as  well  as  some  of  medium  size.  Some  carry  great  clusters,  some  are  nice  to  eat  raw 
as  table  fruits,  some  to  eat  as  salad,  and  some  when  cooked.  The  most  popular  ones 
are  those  which  produce  good-sized,  round,  handsome  red  fruits,  and  in  great  profusion. 
Good  ones  are:  Perfection,  Carter's  Sunrise  (splendid),  and  Duke  of  York.  Good  egg 
or  plum-shaped  fruits  are:  Ai,  Regina,  Challenger,  and  Peerless.  There  are  some  of 
a  reddish,  terra-cotta  colour,  but  these  are  not  in  favour.  The  best  yellow  varieties  bear- 
ing good  showy  fruits  are:  Golden  Jubilee,  Blenheim  Orange,  and  Sunbeam.  The  best 
small-fruited  or  dessert  yellow  is  Golden  Nugget,  one  of  great  excellence,  the  fruit  the 
size  of  damsons,  rich  colour  and  excellent  flavour.  The  best  reds  are :  Red  Dessert  and 
Cluster,  both  wonderfully  productive,  the  fruit  being  about  the  size  of  pigeons'  eggs. 

Early  Winter  Crops. — When  plants  are  raised  from  seed  about  the  middle  of  June, 
and  are  grown  on  into  large  pots,  as  previously  described,  they  are  kept  outdoors  till  the 
end  of  August.  These  are  put  into  a  greenhouse,  near  the  glass  and  without  heat,  till 
the  end  of  September.  Good  quantities  of  fruit  will  be  produced,  and  if  then  warmth  of 
from  60  to  70  degrees  be  furnished,  all  these  plants  will  ripen  fruits  well  up  to  the  end  of 
the  year,  and  at  a  season  when  Tomatoes  are  scarce. 

Turnips.— These  root  vegetables  can  be  had  in  gardens  for  a  long  season.  A  common 
fault  is  to  sow  seed  too  thickly  and  largely  at  once  during  the  spring  and  summer. 
Frequent  but  quite  small  sowings  of  but  a  few  yards  in  extent  are  usually  ample,  if  made 
once  in  three  weeks  from  March  till  the  middle  of  August,  when  others  of  more  extensive 
breadth  should  be  made,  as  those  will  have  to  furnish  a  supply  for  the  winter  months. 
It  is  a  common  rule  in  good  gardens  to  make  up  a  bed  of  manure  and  leaves  to  furnish 
warmth  ;  on  that  to  place  a  wood  frame,  to  half  fill  it  with  soil,  then  to  sow  seed  in  drills 
9  inches  apart,  to  water,  and  place  a  glass  light  over,  covering  up  with  mats  to  preserve 
the  heat.  The  seeds  germinate  in  a  few  days.  Light  must  then  be  given,  except  at  night, 
when  covering  up  is  needful.  The  plants  need  to  be  thinned  to  about  2  inches  apart. 
The  best  varieties  for  this  purpose  are  the  Long  Forcing,  or  tap-rooted,  much  like  a  long, 
white  radish,  but  a  capital  table  variety  and  keeping  fresh  a  long  time  ;  and  the  round- 
rooted  Early  Milan.  The  former  is,  however,  the  best.  Then  successive  sowings  of  either 
of  these  varieties  should  be  made  in  April  and  succeeding  months,  in  drills  12  inches 
apart  and  thinly.  Large  roots  are  not  required,  but  the  soil  should  be  rich  and  kept  well 
watered  in  dry  weather,  as  quick  growth  is  needful  to  secure  crisp,  fresh,  sweet  roots. 
Very  moderate  thinning  of  the  plants  whilst  small  suffices.  In  August  two  sowings,  one 
early,  one  in  the  third  week,  may  be  made  of  that  excellent  variety  Snowball,  a  very 
white,  round  form.  The  sowings  are  best  made  in  drills  12  inches  apart,  the  plants  being 
thinned  down  to  4  inches  apart.  Sowing  in  drills  facilitates  thinning  and  hoeing,  and 
also  saves  waste  in  sowing  seed.  A  free  use  of  the  hoe  between  the  plants  whilst  quite 
young  keeps  down  weeds,  and  helps  the  plants  to  make  good  growth.  From  these 
August  sowings  of  the  Snowball,  roots  may  be  pulled  of  the  best  table  quality  up  to  the 
end  of  the  year,  and  if  the  weather  be  not  severe  much  later.  For  late  winter  pulling  it 
is  wise  to  make,  about  the  2oth  of  August,  where  ground  is  available,  a  sowing  of  Red 
Globe,  as  that  is  hardier  than  the  Snowball,  and  takes  longer  to  produce  roots.  These 
will  need  to  be  thinned  out  to  6  inches  apart,  as  the  leafage  must  have  ample  space.  If 
some  of  the  larger  roots  be  pulled,  trimmed,  and  stored  in  sand  in  a  cool  shed  in  January 
they  will  be  safe  from  hard  frost  and  give  a  supply  for  several  weeks.  A  capital  Turnip, 
very  popular  in  Scotland,  and  of  marrowy  texture,  is  Golden  Ball,  the  flesh  quite  yellow. 
This  needs  similar  treatment  to  the  Snowball. 

Swedish  Turnips.— These  are  of  a  distinct  race,  and  are  consumed  generally  by  cattle, 
but  small  roots,  such  as  may  easily  be  grown  in  gardens,  make  very  nice  food  in  the 
winter  if  properly  cooked.  Seed  should  be  sown  in  drills  12  inches  apart  at  the  end  of 
May  or  early  in  June.  The  seedling  plants  require  to  be  thinned  out  to  12  inches  apart, 
and  kept  free  from  weeds,  and  well  hoed  through  the  summer.  The  roots  are  fairly 
hardy,  and  may  be  left  in  the  ground  until  January,  then  be  pulled,  trimmed,  and  stored 
in  sand  for  use  as  needed.  The  flesh  is  soft  and  pleasant  eating.  Unused  roots  of  these, 
or  white  Turnips,  planted  outdoors  during  March,  will  soon  make  growth,  and  furnish 
tender  sprouts  or  tops  that  make  a  pleasant  green  dish.  Swede  Turnips  will  repay  grow- 
ing for  this  purpose  only. 

Vegetable  Marrows. — Although  the  Gourd  family  is  a  large  one,  and  contains  many 
members  that  produce  handsome  ornamental  fruits,  yet  relatively  few  are  worth  growing 
for  edible  purposes,  the  forms  known  as  Vegetable  Marrows  being  the  best.  Vegetable 
Marrows  include  fruits  long,  narrow,  and  white,  or  green  in  colour ;  others  of  medium 
length,  of  short  or  almost  round  form,  and  of  the  custard  type,  those  of  quaint  shape 
like  a  little  round  pie  turned  out  from  a  basin.  All  however  have,  when  cooked,  flesh  of 
somewhat  similar  character,  soft,  succulent,  watery,  but  yet  very  pleasant  eating.  Plants 


VEGETABLE   GROWING  419 

differ  in  habit  of  growth  slightly,  or  so  far  that  whilst  the  majority  trail  in  growth,  sending 
out  long  shoots,  a  few  are  of  compact  or  bushy  form,  and  are  known  as  Bush  Marrows. 
These  may  be  planted  more  closely  than  others,  indeed  each  may  be  but  3  feet  apart. 
The  trailing  forms  are,  however,  the  best,  being  more  varied  and  productive.  They  need 
ample  room  to  run,  and  seem  to  be  most  at  home  when  trained  over  stiff  hedges,  sticks, 
sheds,  wood  piles,  or  anything  that  keeps  them  from  the  ground.  Of  course  the  plants 
must  be  rooted  in  the  soil,  and  the  ground  should  in  all  cases  be  deeply  worked,  well 
manured,  and  be  somewhat  raised,  as  the  plants  like  to  be  on  small  mounds.  Still  they 
thrive  well  in  hot,  dry  weather  when  liberally  watered,  provided  they  be  not  deluged  too 
near  the  stems.  Those  plants  which  make  long,  strong  growths  need  occasional  pinching 
to  cause  the  formation  of  other  shoots  which  are  more  productive.  Fruits  of  medium 
size  are  best  for  cooking  ;  those  left  to  produce  seed  should  be  very  few  and  be  of  July 
blooming.  As  Vegetable  Marrows  are  very  tender,  it  is  unwise  to  expose  them  outdoors 
until  danger  from  late  frosts  is  over.  For  that  reason  early  in  April  is  soon  enough  to 
sow  the  seed  in  broad  pots  or  pans,  under  glass.  The  seeds  should  be  an  inch  apart  at 
least,  and  be  buried  half  an  inch.  If  a  little  artificial  heat  can  be  given  in  a  greenhouse 
or  frame,  growth  is  quicker.  Still  at  that  time  of  the  spring  sun  warmth  is  usually 
strong  enough  to  produce  very  good  growth,  if  more  slowly.  When  the  seedling 
plants  show  one  or  two  rough  or  new  leaves,  they  should  be  carefully  taken  from  the 
seed  pans,  and  be  put  singly  into  small  pots  or  in  pairs,  one  on  each  side,  into  5-inch  pots, 
using  some  light  good  soil.  After  watering  the  plants  should  be  placed  in  ample  light, 
where  for  a  couple  of  weeks  they  will  become  strong.  After  that  they  may  be  placed  in  a 
cool  frame  to  harden,  and  then  be  stood  outdoors  in  a  sheltered  place  to  more  fully  harden 
before  planting  out.  That  may  be  done  during  the  last  week  of  May,  except  where  the 
position  is  very  warm  and  night  protection  can  be  given,  when  they  may  go  out  a  week 
earlier. 

Sites  for  the  plants  should  always  be  sheltered  from  strong  east  or  north  winds.  Holes 
to  receive  pairs  of  plants  should  be  opened  4  to  5  feet  apart  each  way,  2  feet  across,  and 
i  foot  in  depth.  Into  the  bottom  soil  some  manure  should  be  forked,  then  other  well- 
decayed  manure  added  to  the  thrown  out  soil  as  filled  in,  and  thus  a  fair-sized  mound  is 
formed,  into  the  centre  of  which  the  plants  should  be  put.  If  it  be  needful  to  furnish 
some  protection  at  night  because  of  danger  from  frosts,  hand-lights  are  best.  Failing 
these,  boxes  or  large  pots,  or  even  baskets,  over  which  a  mat  or  sack  or  piece  of  canvas  is 
thrown,  are  good  protectors.  These  may  be  put  on  late  in  the  evening  and  be  removed 
next  morning.  But  danger  at  that  time  of  the  year  is  shortlived.  A  few  pairs  of  plants, 
thus  put  out,  will  produce  a  great  crop  of  fruits  during  the  year. 

Good  Varieties  are:  Long  White,  Long  Green,  Pen-y-Byd,  Moore's  Cream,  and 
Hibbard  Prolific,  short  and  roundish,  and  the  quaint-shaped  Custard  Marrow,  but  which 
is  not  the  most  profitable.  For  exhibition  Long  White  is  best. 

Autumn  Protection. — A  common  danger  to  Vegetable  Marrows  arises  from  unduly 
early  frosts  in  the  autumn.  Not  infrequently  it  happens  that  a  sharp  frost  in  September 
kills  the  plants,  or  otherwise  they  might  go  on  fruiting  for  some  three  or  four  weeks 
longer.  It  is  good  practice  with  the  approach  of  the  2oth  of  September  to  draw  the 
plants  more  closely  together,  and  to  lay  mats  or  other  light  covering  over  them  at  night, 
but  removing  it  early  in  the  morning.  With  so  much  care  taken  plants  will  often  give 
far  more  fruit  late  than  is  needed  to  pay  for  the  small  trouble  involved. 

Herbs. — These  are  indispensable  in  a  vegetable  garden.  Parsley,  always  much  used 
for  garnishing,  will  give  an  ample  supply  if  a  row  in  a  shallow  drill  be  sown  each  year  in 
May,  the  plants  being  thinned  out  to  6  inches  apart.  Mint  may  be  propagated  by 
putting  tops  in  as  cuttings  under  hand-lights,  or  in  pots  in  a  frame,  in  May ;  also  by 
lifting  the  long,  string-like  roots  in  winter  and  planting  some  afresh  in  other  soil.  Sage 
is  easily  increased  by  cutting  branches  from  old  plants  and  setting  them  deep  in  the 
ground  in  May.  Both  Lemon  and  Common  Thymes  can  be  raised  from  seed,  or  be 
lifted,  pulled  to  pieces,  and  replanted,  and  thus  increase  stock.  Both  Marjoram  and 
Savory  can  be  increased  by  seed  sowing  and  division  of  old  plants.  Fennel  is  easily  raised 
from  seed.  These  are  the  most  useful  Herbs. 


CULTIVATION    OF   FRUIT 


WHOLESOME  fruit  is  as  pleasant  to  see  in  the  garden  as  the 
flowers  scattered  in  the  border.  An  Apple  tree  is  a  thing  of 
beauty  in  itself,  its  growth  is  picturesque,  its  flowers  as  ex- 
quisite as  those  of  the  most  treasured  foreign  Crab,  grown  for 
beauty  alone,  and  its  leaves  turn  to  crimsons,  yellows,  and 
browns  when  the  ruddy  fruit  still  hangs  on  the  bough.  Of 
course  in  the  large  garden  the  fruit  department  is  the  most 
important,  but  when  a  small  space  is  under  consideration  the 
owner  must  fit  in  things  in  his  own  way.  He  may  prefer 
more  strawberries  than  Apples,  or  Plums  rather  than  Pears. 
It  is  wise  to  have  plenty  of  bush  fruit,  Currants,  black,  red, 
and  white,  and  Gooseberries,  with  Apple  trees  on  the  Paradise 
stock.  These  rarely  fail  to  give  each  year  an  abundance  of 
produce,  and  the  man  who  has  a  small  garden  feels  a  bad 
season  more  keenly  than  the  one  with  broad  acres,  in  which 
if  one  variety  fails  another  bears  abundantly,  and  gain  and 
loss  are  in  a  measure  equalised. 

Minute  details  have  been  given  to  assist  the  novice,  and 
it  is  surprising  how  little  is  known  of  fruit  culture  even  by 
those  who  have  possessed  good  gardens  half  their  life. 
Rudimentary  matters  are  as  a  sealed  book,  priming  is 
accomplished  in  such  a  way  that  the  fruit  promise  of 
another  year  is  hacked  off,  and  then  the  tree  is  condemned 
as  worthless.  In  the  case  of  quite  small  gardens,  where 
perhaps  half  a  dozen  fruits  alone  can  find  a  place,  a  small 
selection  has  been  given,  and  any  variety  from  that  selection 
will  not  prove  a  failure.  So  much  depends  upon  individual 
tastes — one  wants  a  late  Apple,  another  an  early  one,  and 
thus  selections  are  given  to  meet  as  far  as  possible  various 
inclinations. 

The  Apple. — Probably  the  most  generally  cultivated,  and  certainly 
the  most  useful,  of  hardy  fruits  is  the  Apple.  The  climate  of  the 
British  Isles  agrees  thoroughly  with  this  splendid  fruit,  as  proved  by 
the  specimens  annually  seen  at  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society's  and 
other  leading  Exhibitions.  There  is,  however,  one  drawback  to  be 

420 


CULTIVATION    OF   FRUIT  421 

noted,  and  that  is  late  frosts  when  the  trees  are  in  flower.  All  hardy 
fruit  trees  are,  of  course,  liable  to  suffer  from  the  same  cause,  though 
the  flowers  of  the  Apple  tree,  opening  later  than  those  of  the  Pear  or 
Cherry,  are  less  likely  to  suffer  through  the  frost.  The  effects  of  frost 
may  be  lessened  by  selecting  as  sheltered  a  position  as  possible,  such 
as  is  afforded  by  trees,  a  hedge,  or  wall.  Not  only  are  such  shelters  of 
service  in  preventing  the  flowers  being  killed  by  frost,  but  they  are 
also  useful  in  protecting  the  trees  from  rough  winds.  The  cold  east 
winds  of  spring  injure  the  blossoms  almost  as  much  as  frost,  and  the 
rough  west  winds  in  autumn  sometimes  bring  down  bushels  of  fruit. 
It  is  well  to  bear  in  mind  also  that  the  flowers  of  trees  upon  high 
ground,  where  the  air  is  dry,  are  not  so  liable  to  be  caught  by  frost 
as  those  of  trees  planted  in  damp  and  low  positions.  If  the  garden, 
therefore,  affords  any  variety  in  elevation,  rather  choose  the  higher 
than  the  lower  ground. 

Soil. — Land  that  is  capable  of  growing  ordinary  garden  vegetables 
will  also  agree  with  Apple  trees.  If  upon  reaching  a  depth  of  2  feet 
water  is  found,  drainage  is  necessary.  In  soil  rendered  cold  and 
damp  by  the  almost  continual  presence  of  water  Apple  trees  will  not 
grow  satisfactorily.  The  best  and  simplest  method  to  get  rid  of 
stagnant  water  is  to  lay  down  drain-pipes  5  or  6  yards  apart  and 
about  3  feet  below  the  surface  of  the  soil,  taking  care  to  so  place 
them  as  to  give  a  slight  fall  towards,  and  connect  them  with,  an 
outlet. 

Purchasing  Trees. — Always  deal  with  a  well-known  firm,  for 
strong,  healthy  trees,  true  to  name,  may  then  be  relied  upon.  It  is 
wise  to  pay  a  few  more  pence  for  a  good  article.  Order  in  good  time 
in  the  summer,  so  that  you  may  rely  upon  having  the  trees  in  early 
autumn — the  best  season  for  planting.  If,  when  they  arrive,  it  is  not 
possible  to  plant  them  at  once,  never  leave  the  roots  exposed  to  the 
air  or  they  will  soon  become  dry  and  shrivelled;  take  out  a  small 
trench  in  the  border,  lay  in  the  roots  of  the  Apple  trees,  and  cover 
them  over  with  soil  until  planting  time.  Only  reliable  varieties  should 
be  purchased,  unless,  as  is  sometimes  the  case,  an  exceptionally  good 
local  kind  is  cultivated  in  the  neighbourhood. 

Planting. — The  work  of  planting  fruit  trees  is  important,  and 
requires  to  be  carefully  performed.  The  best  time  to  do  this  is  in 
the  month  of  November,  before  all  the  leaves  have  fallen,  for  then  the 
trees  are  able  to  become  somewhat  established  before  the  winter 
months,  and  in  spring  will  be  quite  ready  to  make  a  good  start. 
When  planting  is  deferred  until  winter  the  ground  has  by  then 
become  cold  and  probably  wet — conditions  that  are  most  unfavour- 
able to  root  action.  It  is  wiser  to  wait  until  the  month  of  March  than 
plant  in  midwinter,  if  it  is  not  possible  to  do  so  in  November.  Natur- 
ally, trees  planted  in  spring  do  not  make  such  good  growth  the  first 
season  as  those  planted  the  previous  autumn.  Having  finally  decided 
upon  the  position,  the  next  thing  is  to  make  a  hole  sufficiently  large 
to  comfortably  hold  all  the  roots  when  they  are  spread  out.  Nothing 


422  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

is  more  harmful  to  the  well-being  of  any  plant  than  to  cramp  its  roots 
into  a  small  hole.  The  latter  should  be  square  and  not  less  than  4 
feet  in  diameter,  and  the  soil  taken  out  to  a  depth  of  2  feet.  The 
soil  in  the  bottom  of  the  hole  must  also  be  well  turned  over,  but  not 
removed.  A  reliable  guide  as  to  the  depth  at  which  fruit  trees  ought 
to  be  planted  is  to  note  how  deep  they  have  been  before ;  this  can 
invariably  be  seen  by  examining  the  bases  of  the  stems.  When  the 
work  is  finished  the  roots  nearest  to  the  surface  of  the  ground  should 
be  at  least  4  or  5  inches  deep.  Many  cultivators  prepare  the  holes 
several  weeks  before  planting  time,  an  excellent  plan.  The  soil  is 
taken  out  as  above  mentioned,  a  few  barrow-loads  of  new  soil  are 
added,  the  subsoil  (that  at  the  bottom)  well  broken  up,  and  the  hole 
is  refilled.  Thus,  by  the  time  the  trees  are  ready  for  planting  the  soil 
has  returned  to  its  normal  level,  and  the  trees  are  in  no  danger  of 
sinking  too  low  after  planting.  If,  however,  the  trees  are  made  firm 
in  ground  that  has  only  been  recently  prepared  there  is  little  danger 
of  their  sinking  low  enough  to  affect  their  welfare.  If  the  hole  be  2 
feet  deep,  with  the  subsoil  well  turned  over,  the  former  must  be  filled 
in  such  a  way  that  the  tree  when  placed  therein  is  at  its  proper  depth, 
as  shown  by  the  soil-mark  on  the  stem,  indicating  how  deep  it  had 
been  previously.  Say,  for  instance,  that  it  was  necessary  to  fill  the 
hole  12  inches  for  this  purpose,  one  or  two  barrow-loads  of  fresh 
soil  should  be  mixed  with  the  natural  soil  taken  out,  and  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  both  returned  together.  Make  this  quite  firm  by  treading 
it  well  down,  and  place  upon  the  top  a  thin  covering  of  new  soil. 
Remove  all  bruised  and  broken  ends  of  roots  with  a  sharp  knife  by 
making  an  upward  slanting  cut.  The  root  fibres  that  push  from  the 
upper  portion  of  the  cut  end  will  then  remain  near  the  surface  and 
not  tend  to  grow  downwards,  as  when  the  cut  is  made  in  the  opposite 
direction.  When  the  hole  is  ready  to  receive  the  tree  the  soil  therein 
should  be  raised  a  little  in  the  centre,  so  that  when  the  tree  is  planted 
the  roots  slope  slightly  towards  the  sides  of  the  hole. 

In  planting,  be  careful  to  place  a  few  of  the  roots  in  at  a  time. 
When  the  lowest  of  all  have  been  spread  out  carefully,  cover  them 
over  with  fresh  soil.  Throw  the  soil  to  the  base  of  the  stem,  and  with 
the  hand  draw  it  gently  towards  the  extremities  of  the  roots,  which  are 
then  kept  in  position,  and  the  soil  is  well  worked  in  amongst  them. 
Make  this  quite  firm,  and  follow  the  same  practice  precisely  with  the 
next  layer  of  roots,  and  so  on  until  all  are  covered.  Then  fill  the 
hole  with  the  remaining  soil,  making  it  firm  as  it  is  thrown  in,  so  that 
when  the  work  is  finished  the  tree  may  be  thoroughly  safe.  It  is  a 
good  plan  to  work  the  soil  after  covering  each  layer  of  roots,  and  at 
the  same  time  to  gently  shake  the  tree.  This  materially  helps  to  settle 
the  soil  around  the  roots ;  it  is  then  unnecessary  to  tread  the  former 
so  hard.  If  the  trees  planted  are  trained  as  tall  standards,  each  will 
need  the  support  of  a  stout  stake  driven  into  the  ground  a  few  inches 
away  from  its  base.  Tarred  string  is  good  material  with  which  to  tie 
the  tree  to  the  stake,  or  thick  wire  may  be  used.  A  piece  of  leather 


A    YOUNG  PYRAMID  APPLE  TREE. 

The  white  band  indicates  the  depth  to  plant. 


A   TEN-YEAR-OLD  STANDARD  APPLE  TREE. 


CULTIVATION   OF  FRUIT  423 

or  rubber  tubing,  however,  must  be  first  fastened  to  the  stem  to  prevent 
injury  from  the  string.  Firmly  fix  the  stake  driven  into  the  ground, 
so  that  the  tree  will  not  be  shaken  about  by  rough  winds.  It  is  an 
excellent  practice  to  mulch  (that  is,  to  cover  with  manure)  the  surface 
of  the  ground  around  newly  planted  fruit  trees,  for  the  roots  are  then 
kept  warm  during  winter,  moist  in  summer,  and  also  at  the  same  time 
derive  benefit  from  the  stimulating  effects  of  the  manure.  When  fruit 
trees  are  planted  on  grass  land,  never  allow  the  grass  to  grow  within  3 
feet  all  around  the  base  of  the  stem.  A  surprising  difference  is  notice- 
able in  the  vigour  of  trees  so  treated  and  those  uncared  for  in  this 
respect. 

Forms  of  Apple  Trees. — Apple  trees  are  to  be  obtained  in  several 
different  forms,  the  best  of  which  are  those  known  as  standards, 
half-standards,  bush,  pyramid,  cordon,  and  espaliers. 

Standard  Trees  have  a  clear  stem  of  several  feet  from  the  ground 
before  branches  are  formed.  This  form  is  particularly  suitable  for 
planting  in  grass  land  upon  which  cattle  are  turned,  for  there  is  then 
plenty  of  room  for  the  latter  to  graze  underneath  the  branches. 
Another  advantage  is,  that  the  smaller  fruit  bushes,  such  as  Currants, 
Gooseberries,  &c.,  may  be  cultivated  amongst  them.  The  best  stock 
upon  which  to  graft  Standard  Apple  trees  is  the  Crab.  The  roots  of 
this  travel  a  long  distance,  are  not  very  fastidious  as  to  soil,  and  are 
therefore  well  fitted  for  comparatively  untilled  ground.  Standards 
may  be  planted  at  a  distance  of  24  feet  apart,  except  some  of  the 
stronger  growing  varieties  which  require  a  larger  amount  of  space. 
If  possible,  plant  them  twice  as  thickly  as  they  ultimately  will  be 
allowed  to  remain,  that  is,  at  12  feet  apart,  and  in  the  course 
of  fifteen  or  twenty  years,  when  they  have  become  crowded,  remove 
every  alternate  one.  Half-standards  are  similar,  except  that  the  main 
stem  is  shorter. 

Bush  Trees. — The  Bush,  or  open  Dwarf,  is  a  popular  method  of 
training  the  Apple  tree,  and  the  most  suitable  one  for  small  gardens. 
The  branches  originate  within  a  few  inches  of  the  ground,  and  after 
the  base  of  the  tree  is  formed,  grow  perpendicularly.  Many  trees  may, 
therefore,  be  grown  in  a  small  space.  The  stock  upon  which  these 
are  grafted  is  the  Paradise ;  the  roots  of  this  remain  near  the  surface, 
and  Apple  trees  grafted  upon  it  are,  as  a  rule,  very  productive  when 
quite  young. 

Pyramid  Trees. — Pyramid  trees  are  also  grafted  upon  the  Paradise 
stock.  When  symmetrically  trained  they  are  very  beautiful,  though 
perhaps  hardly  so  productive  as  Bush  trees,  and  they  occupy  more 
space.  From  the  central  upright  stem,  branches  proceed  in  a 
horizontal  direction. 

Cordon  Trees. — There  are  several  forms  of  Cordon  trees.  Those 
restricted  to  one  stem  are  known  as  Single  Cordons,  others  may  have 
two  or  even  more.  Cordons  may  either  be  trained  in  an  upright  or 
oblique  direction.  They  are  usually  planted  against  walls,  are  easily 
managed,  bear  large  crops  of  fruit,  and  occupy  little  room. 


424  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

Espaliers.  — These  trained  horizontally  with  two  branches  only  are 
very  useful  for  small  gardens.  They  are  suitable  for  planting  by  the 
side  of  garden  walks,  and  should  be  trained  on  wires  about  18  inches 
above  the  ground.  Considering  their  small  size  they  bear  fruit  freely. 

Pruning. — The  technical  term  pruning  is  applied  to  the  annual 
removal  of  certain  shoots  or  branches,  and  is  practised  in  the  cultivation 
of  all  fruit  trees.  The  objects  of  pruning  are  to  regulate  the  form  and 
size  of  the  tree,  to  equalise  growth  by  restricting  unduly  vigorous  shoots 
and  encouraging  weaker  ones,  to  form  flower-buds  for  the  production  of 
fruit,  to  admit  a  proper  amount  of  light  and  air  between  the  branches, 
and  remove  all  dead,  diseased,  or  otherwise  useless  wood. 

In  order  to  thoroughly  understand  the  pruning  and  training  neces- 
sary to  form  a  properly  shaped  Standard  Apple  tree,  we  will  follow 
the  progress  of  one  of  these  from  the  commencement.  We  will  suppose 
that  a  clear  stem  of  rather  more  than  6  feet  has  already  developed  since 
the  tree  was  grafted ;  the  next  operation  is  to  form  the  foundation 
branches.  In  winter,  cut  the  top  off  the  shoot,  for  that  portion  of  the 
wood  is  usually  soft.  The  following  spring  allow  three  good  shoots  to 
grow  from  the  buds  immediately  below  the  cut  portion.  These  are  to 
form  the  primary  branches  of  the  tree.  During  the  summer  months 
attend  to  them  carefully  in  order  to  regulate  and  equalise  their  progress 
as  much  as  possible.  The  shoot  proceeding  from  the  uppermost  bud  is 
almost  sure  to  be  the  strongest,  and  will  probably  grow  perpendicularly. 
This  must  be  prevented,  however,  by  bending  the  shoot  downwards,  so 
as  to  check  the  flow  of  sap  and  divert  it  to  the  other  two  branches,  both 
of  which  are  usually  weaker.  If  one  is  particularly  weak  it  should  be 
brought  upright,  as  this  results  in  more  vigorous  growth.  Towards 
the  end  of  the  summer  12  or  15  inches  of  each  young  branch  should 
have  been  brought  down  almost  straight.  This  is  easily  accomplished 
when  the  shoots  are  young.  The  following  winter,  cut  or  prune  back 
the  growths  made  during  the  summer  to  within  9  or  10  inches  of  the 
base  of  each. 

An  inch  or  two  more  or  less  does  not  matter,  but  what  is  of  more 
importance  is  the  necessity  of  cutting  them  back  to  two  buds  that  point 
away  from  the  centre  of  the  tree.  The  two  best  shoots  that  push  in  an 
outward  direction  from  the  upper  parts  of  each  of  the  three  branches 
should  be  encouraged  to  grow  the  following  summer.  There  are  now 
six  branches,  and  they  need  the  same  careful  attention  during  the  warm 
months,  in  order  to  have  them  evenly  balanced  and  at  an  equal  dis- 
tance from  each  other,  as  in  the  case  of  the  three  primary  shoots  of  the 
previous  year. 

The  primary  branches  of  a  Bush  Apple  tree  may  be  formed  in  a 
similar  manner,  though  they  will,  of  course,  in  this  case,  originate  a  few 
inches  above  the  surface  of  the  ground.  Numerous  side  shoots  will 
develop  from  these  branches,  and  when  they  have  grown  about  5 
inches  long  pinch  them.  If  they  were  allowed  to  grow  until  the 
autumn,  and  were  then  cut  back  to  within  a  short  distance  of  their 
bases  more  shoots  would  push  the  following  summer  from  the  buds 


BUSH  APPLE  NEWTON  WONDER. 


- 


OLD  RIBSTON  PIPPIN   APPLE  TREE  IN  RIBSTON  PARK. 


CULTIVATION   OF   FRUIT  425 

below  the  cut  portion  and  the  tree  quickly  become  a  mass  of  shoots. 
If,  however,  the  side  shoots  are  pinched  when  a  few  inches  long,  and 
those  that  eventually  push  from  the  side  shoots  themselves  (called  sub- 
laterals)  are  pinched  back  to  one  leaf,  the  former  will  develop  into  fruit 
spurs— that  is  to  say,  blossom  buds  will  form  upon  them.  Once  the 
tree  is  well  established,  keep  the  top  well  open  so  that  sun  and  air  may 
be  freely  admitted.  To  attain  this  object,  all  shoots  that  have  a  tendency 
to  grow  inwards  or  across  others  should  be  pinched,  as  above  advised. 
Unduly  vigorous  shoots  also  need  stopping,  otherwise  they  destroy  the 
symmetry  of  the  tree  and  render  the  weak  snoots  woefully  unproductive. 
Trees  with  branches  crowded  closely  together  and  allowed  to  grow  in 
all  directions  cannot  be  expected  to  bear  a  good  crop  of  fruit. 

Summer  Pruning.— This  is  certainly  one  of  the  most  important 
operations  connected  with  the  cultivation  of  the  Apple.     As  before 
mentioned,  if  the  growing  shoots  are  allowed  to  fully  develop  during  the 
summer,  and  then  are  pruned 
back  to  two  or  three  eyes  in 
winter,  these  dormant  buds  or 
"eyes"  will  again   most  pro- 
bably produce  shoots  the  fol- 
lowing year,  and  the  result  will 
eventually  be  a  tree  crowded 
with  unproductive  wood.     If, 
however,  these  growths  in  the 
month  of  July  are  pinched  be-      FIG.  27.— Root  Pruning  :  Way  to  cut  back 
yond  five  or  six  leaves  flower-  a  Root, 

buds  will  eventually  form  and 

the  arrested  shoot  develop  into  a  fruit  spur.  The  object  of  the 
cultivator  should  be  to  train  the  branches  thinly,  so  that  sun  and  air 
may  have  free  access  to  all  parts,  for  this  is  the  secret  of  success. 

Winter  Pruning. — This  is  not  a  troublesome  task  if  the  shoots  were 
pinched,  as  advised,  during  the  summer.  Cut  these  back  to  within 
three  or  four  buds  of  their  base.  All  dead  wood  should  be 
removed.  Wounds  caused  by  canker  disease  should  be  pared 
out  clean,  right  down  to  live  tissue,  and  then  painted  with  white 
lead  or  tar.  The  leading  branches  of  Apple  trees,  and  any  shoots 
intended  to  form  new  branches,  where  there  is  room,  should  be 
left  about  15  inches  long.  When  exceptionally  strong  leave  them 
rather  longer,  and  prune  a  little  harder  when  weakly.  When 
shortening  the  leading  outside  branches,  cut  back  to  a  good  bud,  on 
the  outside,  otherwise  next  year's  shoot  might  push  towards  the  centre 
of  the  tree. 

Root  Pruning. — Some  varieties  of  Apple  trees  are  naturally  of 
very  strong  growth,  and  sometimes,  especially  if  the  soil  in  which  they 
are  planted  is  fairly  rich,  they  make  a  large  quantity  of  shoots  which 
produce  no  flowers.  The  reason  for  this  is,  that  the  roots  of  the  tree 
have  gone  down  into  the  subsoil,  and  instead  of  producing  numerous 
small  fibres,  are  simply  "  tap  roots  " — that  is,  they  are  destitute  of  fibres, 


426  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

and  can  take  comparatively  little  part  in  supplying  nourishment  to  keep 
the  tree  in  position.     To  check  undue  luxuriance,  and  to  promote  the 

formation  of  healthy  fibrous  roots, 
the  long,  bare,  tap  roots  must  be 
pruned.  To  do  this,  make  a  trench 
about  2  feet  deep  around  the  tree, 
at  a  distance  from  it  of  not  less 
than  4  feet.  Then  with  a  fork 
carefully  draw  away  the  soil  from 
the  tree,  more  particularly  from 
underneath,  so  as  to  find  the  thick 
and  gross  growing  roots.  Shorten 
FIG.  28.-Root  Pruning  :  How  not  to  these  back  with  an  upward  cut  (as 
cut  back  a  Root.  explained  before),  from  which 

fibrous  roots  will  be  emitted,  place 
horizontally,  again  cover  over,  and  make  firm. 

Grafting. — The  most  general  method  of  propagating  the  Apple  is  by 
grafting.  This  operation  consists  in  joining  together,  so  as  to  form  one 
plant,  the  cut  surfaces  of  two  different  shoots.  The  shoot  to  be  grafted 
is  technically  known  as  the  scion,  and  the  plant  upon  which  it  is  placed 
is  the  stock.  The  latter  is  growing  in  the  ground,  and  the  former  is  a 
part  of  a  shoot  cut  in  winter  from  the  previous  year's  growth.  Stocks 
for  grafting  upon  are  raised  from  seeds  sown  early  in  the  year  out  of 
doors.  They  are  grown  on,  and  transplanted  several  times  until  they 
have  become  sufficiently  vigorous.  Stocks  should  not  be  grafted  until 
they  are  about  the  thickness  of  one's  finger.  In  grafting,  the  habit  and 
constitution  of  the  variety  require  attention.  It  would  obviously  be 
useless  in  forming  a  Standard  tree  to  graft  a  weakly  variety  low  down, 
and  allow  it  to  form  the  stem,  for  the  latter  would  never  be  strong 
enough  to  support  the  branches.  The  right  course  to  pursue  would  be 
to  allow  the  stock  to  form  the  stem  and  to  graft  higher  up.  If  the 
variety  to  be  grafted,  or  "  worked,"  as  it  is  called,  is  vigorous,  it  may 
either  be  united  near  to  the  ground  or  higher  up,  for  it  would  be  cap- 
able of  forming  a  stem  equally  as  good  as  the  stock  itself.  Early  in  the 
year  the  stock  should  be  cut  back  to  where  the  scion  is  to  be  affixed ; 
the  latter  also  is  cut  at  the  same  season,  or  even  earlier.  If  one  end  is 
inserted  in  the  soil  in  a  cool  border  outside,  the  scion  will  keep  perfectly 
well  until  required  for  grafting.  The  month  of  March  is  a  favourable 
time  to  perform  this  work,  for  then  the  sap  is  flowing  gently.  Always 
make  sure  that  the  inner  bark  of  the  scion  fits  exactly  over  the  inner 
bark  of  the  stock,  for  it  is  here  that  union  takes  place.  This  is  the 
principle  that  underlies  all  grafting ;  no  matter  what  method  may  be 
employed,  the  union  of  the  inner  barks  must  be  effectual.  One  of  the 
commonest  ways  is  that  known  as — 

Whip  or  Tongue  Grafting. — The  stock  is  prepared  by  first 
making  a  slanting  cut  as  shown,  so  that  it  may  terminate  just  above 
a  bud.  Then  cut  away  a  corresponding  portion  from  the  scion. 
Be  careful  to  make  the  end  of  the  latter  quite  thin,  or  it  will  not  fit 


CULTIVATION   OF   FRUIT  427 

exactly  upon  the  stock.  Afterwards  make  an  incision  on  the  cut 
portion  of  the  scion,  and  also  a  similar  one  on  the  stock.  Place  the 
two  together,  so  that  the  two  small  tongues  fit  exactly,  and  be  sure  that 
on  one  side  the  outer  edges  of  the  barks  correspond  (if  the  scion  is 
smaller  than  the  stock,  the  barks  cannot  coincide  on  both  sides),  for 
then  the  inner  barks  will  also  be  together.  Endeavour  to  have  the 
scion  and  stock  as  nearly  as  possible  of  the  same  size.  Then  tie  tightly 
round  with  matting,  and  cover  over  with  clay  to  prevent  the  air  reach- 
ing the  cut  portions. 

Saddle  Grafting  is  another  method,  but  cannot  well  be  practised 
unless  stock  and  scion  are  of  equal  thickness.  Great  care  is  necessary 
in  cutting  the  scion  or  it  will  probably  split  in  the  centre. 

Rind  (Crown}  Grafting  is  generally  employed  when  the  stock  is 
comparatively  large.  The  latter  is  cut  straight  across,  and  the  scion 
cut  obliquely,  exactly  as  in  tongue  grafting,  except  that,  instead  of  the 
tongue,  a  notch  is  made,  which  fits  upon  the  cut  surface  of  the  stem. 
Insert  the  thin  end  of  a  budding  knife  or  paper-knife  between  the  bark 
and  wood  (these  easily  separate  in  spring),  and  place  in  the  scion  in 
the  opening  thus  made.  The  thin  end  of  the  scion  will  thus  be  between 
the  wood  and  bark,  and  the  notch  fits  upon  the  cut  surface.  Several 
scions,  three  or  four,  according  to  the  size  of  the  stock,  are  usually  in- 
serted ;  tie  round  with  matting,  and  cover  with  clay  or  grafting  wax,  as 
before  advised. 

Varieties. — The  number  of  Apples  in  cultivation  is  legion.  Many 
of  them  are  worthless,  especially  to  a  small  grower,  and  others  in- 
different. It  is  essential  to  make  a  careful  selection,  for  unless  one  has 
good  varieties  in  the  first  place,  after  care  and  attention  are  lost.  It  is 
advisable  to  grow  several  trees  of  each  of  the  best  varieties  rather  than 
possess  one  or  two  of  many  varieties.  A  suitable  list  is  given  in  the 
chart  on  page  605. 

Cherries. — From  the  days  when  Henry  VIII  scoured  the  Con- 
tinent for  new  fruits  and  the  resulting  finds  were  planted  at  Teynham, 
Kent  has  been  famed  for  its  Cherries.  But  even  in  this  country  their 
culture  is  localised  to  a  large  extent,  and  the  reason  for  this  will  be 
found  to  be — chalk.  Where  there  is  an  abundance  of  this  mineral, 
there  are  Cherries  flourishing.  On  the  granite  soils,  such  as  are  found, 
for  example,  in  the  West  of  England,  it  steadfastly  refuses  to  grow. 
The  lesson  is  obvious.  This  fruit  is  somewhat  impatient  of  the  knife, 
and  therefore  restricted  forms  such  as  espaliers  are  not  advisable. 
Even  the  more  natural  fan-trained  forms  on  walls  should  not  be  too 
strictly  dealt  with  in  regard  to  pruning.  The  best  wall  fruits  I  have 
seen  were  grown  on  trees  the  tortuous  branches  of  which  would  shock 
those  whose  eye  for  symmetry  is  well  developed,  but  at  the  same  time 
please  those  who  consider  that  the  first  duty  of  a  fruit  tree  is  to  fruit. 
Where  pruning  is  necessary  it  is  best  done  in  summer,  in  the  same  way 
as  advised  for  the  Pear  on  p.  431.  The  pyramid  form  is  suitable,  if 
not  pruned  too  hard,  and  especially  for  varieties  of  the  Duke  race, 
whose  neat,  upright  habit  takes  them  halfway  to  this  form.  Cordons 


428  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

also  do  well  on  walls  if  not  too  much  encouraged  with  nitrogenous 
manure,  and  this  advice,  indeed,  applies  to  all  forms.  In  the  early 
stages  of  growth  stable  manure  should  be  strictly  avoided,  and  potash 
and  phosphatic  manure  should  only  be  given,  with,  of  course,  lime,  if 
this  is  not  present  in  the  soil,  in  fair  quantity.  The  culture  of  this 
fruit  under  glass  is  not  undertaken  so  often  as  it  should  be.  To 
defeat  spring  frosts  and,  incidentally,  the  feathered  tribes,  this  method 
is  very  desirable,  and  for  those  who  have  not  eaten  "  under  glass " 
fruit  a  revelation  awaits  them.  As  the  cooking  Plum  is  to  the  Green 
Gage,  so  are  outdoor  Cherries  to  the  indoor  ones. 

The  soft-fleshed  Bigarreaus,  so  unfit  for  the  untender  mercies  of 
Covent  Garden,  only  require  to  be  better  known  to  those  whose  idea 
of  a  Cherry  is  the  indigestible,  if  profitable,  Napoleon ;  and  the  black 
varieties,  such  as  the  Tartarian  or  Circassian,  are  found  in  the  highest 
perfection  under  orchard-house  culture.  The  varieties  that  can  be 
recommended  for  quality  are,  in  the  yellow,  Bigarreaus,  Frogmore, 
Elton,  and  Governor  Wood;  in  black  varieties  of  this  race,  the 
Tartarian  above  mentioned,  Early  Rivers,  and  Waterloo;  and  the 
old  St.  Margaret's  or  Tradescant's  Black  Heart,  a  name  which  takes 
us  back  to  the  Duke  race,  whose  refreshing  acid  flavour  is  acceptable 
to  many  palates,  and  are  best  represented  by  May  Duke,  Royal  Duke, 
and  Archduke. 

The  Morello  Cherry  needs  no  recommendation.  Its  preference 
for  a  cool  wall  and  its  never-failing  cropping  qualities  have  won  it  a 
place  in  all  gardeners'  hearts.  It  fruits  on  young  wood  of  the  previous 
year's  growth,  and  as  much  of  this  should  be  retained  as  possible.  Of 
similar  flavour  is  the  Kentish  Red,  a  very  distinct  variety,  which  for 
cooking  is  quite  unequalled.  Cherry  jam  made  of  this  variety  will  be 
the  first  sort  to  disappear  from  the  pantry.  Use  half  a  pound  of  sugar 
to  i  Ib.  of  fruit,  and  you  have  a  preserve  fit  for  the  proverbial  king. 
To  sum  up,  the  secret  of  Cherry-growing  is  to  forget  the  knife  and 
the  manure-barrow,  and  remember  the  lime. 

Plums. — While  the  exact  identification  of  the  "forbidden  fruit" 
remains  a  matter  of  speculation,  I  have  no  hesitation  in  designating 
the  Plum  the  "  unappreciated  fruit."  The  extended  culture  of  the 
commoner  varieties  for  "market"  purposes  has  perhaps  to  answer 
for  the  lack  of  appreciation  of  this  most  delicious  fruit;  but  I  also 
venture  to  think  that  a  lack  of  care  in  gathering  at  the  right  season 
and  storing  for  a  short  interval  are  likewise  partly  responsible  for 
its  neglect. 

The  Plum  has  long  been  reproached  with  unfruitfulness ;  but  we 
are  now  able,  thanks  to  recent  research  at  the  John  Innes  Horticul- 
tural Institution,  to  remedy  one  frequent  cause  of  this  first  of  deadly 
sins.  I  allude  to  the  fact  that  Plums  are  generally  self-sterile  ;  that  is, 
pollen  must  be  brought  from  another  variety  to  ensure  the  perfect 
setting  of  their  fruit.  This  is  a  valuable  piece  of  information  to 
gardeners — and  nurserymen. 

Another  cause  of  infertility  is  the  destruction  of  blossoms  by  spring 


MORELLO  CHERRY  ON  NORTH  WALL. 


CULTIVATION   OF   FRUIT  429 

frosts.  Considering  the  ease  with  which  this  may  be  combated,  by 
throwing  over  the  tree  a  piece  of  netting,  I  wonder  it  is  not  more 
practised  on  dwarf  trees.  Most  gardeners,  however,  allow  a  certain 
wall  space  to  the  choicest  varieties,  where  protection  is  easier  still. 
It  is  a  common  complaint  that  the  Plum  in  its  earlier  stages  makes 
too  much  growth.  This  should  be  remedied  by  the  culture  of 
pyramids  and  bushes,  when  occasional  transplanting  for  the  first  ten 
years  will  ensure  an  abundance  of  fruiting  spurs.  It  must  also  be 
remembered  that  this  fruit  is  a  lime-loving  plant,  and  needs  a  good 
supply  always  at  hand,  or  should  I  say  at  the  root  ? 

Plum  orchards  may  be  seen  thriving  on  the  Southern  chalk  downs 
with  the  thinnest  of  surface  soils.  Of  varieties  there  is  a  wide  choice, 
and  I  will  mention  but  a  few  of  the  best.  First  of  all  comes  Oullin's 
Golden  Gage,  a  large  yellow  fruit,  excellent  for  dessert,  and  for 
bottling  one  of  the  very  best.  August  brings  the  Early  Transparent 
Gage,  small,  but  certainly  highly  flavoured.  September  is  the  Plum 
month,  and  many  are  at  the  disposal  of  the  gardener.  The  Green 
Gage,  Transparent  Gage,  and  Jefferson  are  all  sorts  that  no  self- 
respecting  gardener  can  dispense  with,  while  for  the  kitchen,  and  also 
for  the  boys  home  from  school,  Victoria,  the  ever-cropping,  and  Belle 
de  Louvain  are  desirable.  Late  varieties  are  found  in  Golden  Trans- 
parent and  Coe's  Golden  Drop.  It  is  not  generally  known  that  the 
latter  can  be  kept  for  a  long  period  in  a  cool  room.  For  late  cooking 
purposes  Monarch  and  the  newer  President  are  most  valuable. 

Those  whose  gardens  are  in  sheltered  spots,  and  where  spring 
frosts  are  not  troublesome,  should  grow  a  tree  or  two  of  the  Myrobalan, 
of  which  there  are  two  varieties — yellow  and  red.  The  tree  flowers 
very  early  and  is  decorative,  so  that  even  if  it  fails  to  crop,  it  justifies 
to  some  extent  its  existence.  The  fruits  when  bottled  are  excellent, 
but  must  not  be  gathered  too  ripe,  or  they  will  be  mealy.  This  must 
not  be  confused  with  the  Mirabelle  of  the  Continent,  which  is  of  the 
Gage  tribe  and  noted  for  its  excellent  jam-making  properties. 

The  Pear. — Although  not  so  useful  as  the  Apple,  the  Pear  is  more 
luscious  and  refreshing.  It  is  not  more  difficult  to  grow  than  the 
Apple,  although  more  fastidious  as  to  climate,  for  in  the  warm  southern 
and  western  counties  of  England,  the  Pear  thrives  better  than  in  the 
more  northern  and  colder  districts.  When  once  well  established,  it 
will  live  and  bear  fruit  for  many  years.  In  soil  suitable  for  the  Apple, 
the  Pear  will  also  succeed.  In  one  of  the  best  hardy  fruit  gardens  in 
the  south  of  England,  on  one  side  of  an  extensive  drive,  Apple  trees  are 
planted,  while  the  border  on  the  opposite  side  contains  splendid 
specimens  of  Pear  trees  throughout  its  full  length.  Providing  that 
there  is  a  sufficient  depth  of  well-drained  loamy  soil,  the  Pear  may  be 
successfully  grown,  but  land  that  is  of  a  gravelly  nature  through  which 
water  passes  away  quickly  is  not  suitable.  If  in  possession  of  such 
land,  the  cultivator  should  always  well  mulch  the  trees  early  in  spring 
by  covering  the  surface  of  the  soil  several  feet  away  from  the  stem  of 
the  tree  with  short  litter.  This  is  of  the  greatest  assistance  to  fruit 


430  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

trees  planted  upon  light  land ;  it  keeps  the  soil  cool  and  moist  by  pre- 
venting evaporation.  If  the  rays  of  the  sun  are  allowed  to  strike  with 
full  force  upon  the  ground  immediately  above  the  roots  of  the  tree,  the 
former  becomes  hard,  dry,  and  generally  cracks — a  condition  that  is 
injurious  to  the  roots.  It  is  obvious  also  that  mulching  lessens  the 
necessity  of  such  frequent  applications  of  water,  and  with  every  fall  of 
rain  the  tree  is  benefited  by  the  stimulating  effects  of  the  manure. 

The  remarks  in  the  notes  upon  the  Apple  with  reference  to  the 
best  aspect  and  position  for  planting,  apply  equally  well  to  the  Pear. 
In  most  gardens  where  the  space  is  available,  a  few  Pear  trees  are 
generally  planted  against  walls,  and,  as  a  rule,  produce  finer  fruit  than 
when  planted  in  the  open.  A  better  crop  is  also  usually  obtained,  for 
the  flowers  are  to  a  certain  extent  protected  from  the  frost  and  rough 
winds  to  which  Pear  trees  in  the  open  are  exposed  in  spring  time.  It 
is  not,  however,  everywhere  that  wall  space  is  available.  We  will, 
therefore,  first  endeavour  to  make  clear  the  culture  of  a  Pear  tree  not 
against  a  wall.  A  Pear  tree  in  the  open  may  either  be  in  the  form  of  a 
standard,  pyramid,  bush,  or  espalier.  The  description  of  each  of  these 
will  be  found  under  the  heading  of  The  Apple.  The  cultural  details 
to  be  followed  in  the  operations  of  preparing  the  soil,  planting,  &c.,  are 
also  there  explained,  and  apply  to  the  Pear. 

Stocks. — As  in  Apple  culture  the  two  stocks  for  grafting  principally 
made  use  of  are  the  "Crab"  and  the  " Paradise,"  so  the  "Pear"  and 
the  "  Quince "  are  the  stocks  upon  which  Pear  trees  are  invariably 
grafted.  Those  upon  the  Pear  stock  live  the  longest,  and  are  the  most 
vigorous ;  the  roots  of  this,  however,  are,  like  the  Crab,  far-reaching,  and 
liable  to  enter  the  subsoil.  If  there  is  a  good  depth  of  suitable  soil, 
trees  upon  the  Pear  stock  will  succeed  well.  Also  in  poor,  gravelly 
soil,  the  roots  of  this  stock  are  able  to  find  moisture  and  nourishment 
at  a  distance  never  reached  by  roots  of  the  Quince.  The  Quince  stock 
tends  to  dwarf  trees  grafted  upon  it,  and  to  bring  them  into  bearing 
earlier ;  the  roots  are  small  and  fibrous — those  of  the  Pear  are  long  and 
comparatively  destitute  of  fibres — and  remain  near  the  surface  of  the 
ground.  It  will  be  therefore  understood  that  in  a  shallow  soil,  or  one 
of  which  the  subsoil  is  unfavourable,  such  a  stock  would  be  decidedly 
preferable.  If,  however,  the  cultivator  purchases  his  trees  from  a  reli- 
able nurseryman,  which  is  far  more  profitable  and  satisfactory  than  pro- 
pagating oneself,  they  will,  of  course,  be  grafted  and  properly  established 
upon  their  respective  stocks. 

Standard  Trees,  usually  planted  on  grass  land,  or  land  that  is  not 
tilled  with  the  spade,  are  invariably  grafted  upon  the  Pear  stock. 
Pyramids,  bushes,  espaliers,  &c.,  for  planting  in  cultivated  garden  soil, 
are  grafted  on  the  Quince.  They  do  not  grow  so  large  as  Standard 
trees,  and  are  therefore  suitable  for  small  gardens. 

Pyramid. — The  Pyramid  Pear  tree  should  have  an  upright  central 
stem,  and  horizontal  branches  emanating  from  it,  and  gradually  diminish- 
ing in  size  and  length  towards  the  apex  of  the  tree.  It  is  necessary  that 
this  should  be  so,  for  the  sap  naturally  rushes  in  the  first  place  to  the 


CULTIVATION    OF   FRUIT  431 

top,  and  if  this  were  not  restricted  in  some  way  the  base  of  the  tree 
would  be  left  uncared  for,  and  probably  die  away.  The  tree  also  would 
be  unfruitful;  at  the  upper  part,  because  of  an  excess  of  vigour,  re- 
sulting in  gross  shoots,  and  lower  down  because  of  weakness  and  want 
of  nourishment.  The  equalisation  of  the  flow  of  sap  to  all  parts  is  an 
important  consideration  in  the  training  of  fruit  trees,  and  should  con- 
stantly be  kept  in  mind  as  an  aid  to  fruitfulness.  If  Pyramid  Pear 
trees  are  grafted  on  the  Quince  stock,  they  may  be  planted  about  6 
feet  apart,  but  if  on  the  Pear  stock,  they  should  not  be  closer  together 
than  9  feet  or  10  feet. 

Bush. — The  Bush  form,  a  somewhat  similar  kind  of  tree,  has  no 
strictly  upright  central  stem ;  its  primary  branches  originate  within  a 
few  inches  of  the  ground  to  where  the  central  stem  was  cut  back  during 
the  formation  of  the  young  tree.  These  branches,  from  which  others 
are  also  developed,  after  spreading  horizontally  so  as  to  form,  as  it  were, 
a  cup-shaped  base,  grow  perpendicularly.  A  large  number  of  Bush  trees 
may  be  cultivated  in  a  small  space,  as  they  need  not  be  planted  more 
than  5  feet  or  6  feet  apart. 

Standards. — Standard  Pear  trees  are  almost  invariably  grafted  upon 
the  Pear  stock,  and,  as  has  been  mentioned,  are  usually  planted  on 
grass  land.  As  in  the  case  of  Standard  Apple  trees,  bush  fruits,  such 
as  Gooseberries  and  Currants,  may  be  grown  underneath.  The  clear 
stem  of  Standard  trees,  before  branches  are  formed,  is,  as  a  rule,  about 
6  feet  from  the  ground.  The  primary  branches  originate  in  the  same 
way  as  with  the  Bush  tree,  but  they  are  allowed  to  grow  more  freely,  no 
particular  shape  or  form  being  aimed  at.  The  branches,  of  course,  are 
not  permitted  to  grow  in  all  directions,  or  to  crowd  each  other,  but  the 
head  of  a  Standard  tree  has  no  distinct  design  as  in  the  case  of  Bush 
and  Pyramid. 

Espalier. — This  is  a  desirable  method  of  training  the  Pear,  for 
it  possesses  several  good  points.  Trees  so  trained  do  not  take  up  so 
much  space  in  the  garden ;  they  are  easily  accessible,  not  difficult  to 
manage,  are  partially  protected,  and  also  succeed  well.  The  espalier,  or 
trellis-work,  upon  which  to  train  them  can  be  quickly  constructed.  It 
is  necessary  to  obtain  several  stout  poles  or  iron  rods,  6  feet  above 
ground,  and  some  stout  wire.  The  poles  or  rods  are  erected  at 
intervals,  and  wires,  placed  about  12  inches  apart,  are  connected 
with  each  one.  Several  forms  of  Pear  trees,  horizontal,  fan- shaped, 
and  cordons,  are  grown  against  such  espaliers,  to  which  reference  will 
be  made  when  treating  of  wall-trees. 

Summer  Treatment — The  chief  points  to  bear  in  mind  in  the 
management  of  Pear  trees,  after  they  have  been  properly  planted  in 
suitable  ground,  are  as  follows :  Each  branch  and  shoot  must  have 
ample  room  to  develop  and  ripen,  and  sun  and  air  should  penetrate 
freely  to  all  parts  of  them.  All  exceptionally  vigorous  shoots  must  be 
checked,  and  it  will  be  found  that  those  towards  the  top  of  the  tree  are 
liable  to  grow  most  strongly.  If  allowed  to  go  on  unchecked  the  lower 
branches  would  correspondingly  become  weak.  Never  allow  a  branch 


432  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

to  form  unless  there  is  sufficient  room  for  it  to  grow  without  over- 
crowding the  tree;  either  cut  away  the  shoot  completely,  or  prune  it 
back  to  form  a  fruit  spur.  The  fruit  of  the  Pear  is  borne  upon  short 
branches,  known  as  fruit  spurs.  These  naturally  formed  fruit  spurs — 
that  on  the  wild  Pear  are  thorny  branches — are  produced  more  or  less 
by  all  Pear  trees.  By  the  judicious  pinching  and  pruning  of  other 
shoots,  artificial  fruit  spurs  may  also  be  formed.  We  will  endeavour  to 
show  how  this  may  be  done. 

Take,  for  instance,  the  ends  of  one  of  the  branches,  i.e.  the  previous 
year's  growth.  Some  fruit  spurs  will  probably  form,  and  some  shoots 
will  also  develop.  If  the  latter  were  allowed  to  grow  throughout  the 
summer,  and  the  following  winter  were  pruned  back  to  within  a  few 
buds  of  their  bases,  next  summer  shoots  would  again  push  from  these 
buds,  and  the  result  would  be  a  mass  of  growth.  This  evidently  is  not 
the  right  method  to  adopt  in  order  to  obtain  a  good  crop  of  fruit. 
Instead  of  permitting  the  above  shoots  to  grow  until  the  autumn,  pinch 
them  to  within  five  or  six  leaves  of  their  bases  early  in  July.  Laterals, 
or  side  shoots,  will  develop  which  must  also  be  stopped  when  2  or 
3  inches  long.  By  following  such  a  system,  those  shoots  which,  if 
left  to  grow  unchecked  during  summer  would  eventually  produce 
simply  a  thicket  of  leaves,  may  be  induced  to  form  flower-buds.  The 
fruit  spurs,  however,  should  not  be  closer  together  than  6  or  8 
inches,  or  they,  too,  would  probably  become  unfruitful.  Leaf,  as  well 
as  flower-buds,  develop  upon  the  spurs,  so  that  if  the  latter  were  less 
than  the  above  distance  apart,  those  important  factors  in  the  well-being 
of  a  Pear  tree,  viz.  sun  and  air,  would  be  excluded  by  the  mass  of 
foliage.  In  pinching  the  summer  shoots,  those  on  the  uppermost 
branches  should  first  be  stopped,  gradually  descending  until  the  whole 
tree  has  been  passed  over.  Do  not  pinch  them  all  at  one  time,  but 
allow  several  days  to  elapse  between  the  checking  of  those  at  the  top, 
middle,  and  bottom  of  the  tree.  The  leading  shoots  of  the  Pear  tree 
need  not  be  stopped,  as  is  necessary  with  the  laterals.  Allow  them  to 
remain  at  full  length  until  the  autumn. 

Winter  Pruning. — At  the  annual  winter  pruning,  which  may  be 
carried  out  in  November  or  December,  the  end  shoots  of  the  various 
leading  branches  should  be  left  about  9  inches  or  12  inches  long, 
according  to  their  vigour.  Always  cut  back  to  a  bud  that  points 
away  from  the  centre  of  the  tree,  so  that  there  may  be  no  danger 
of  the  resulting  shoot  growing  inwards.  At  the  winter  pruning  the 
branches  may  be  regulated,  and  the  true  shape  of  the  tree  preserved. 
If  any  branches  have  grown  inwards,  or  across  others,  cut  them 
away;  also  remove  all  dead  or  cankered  shoots,  and  those  that  are 
very  weak. 

During  the  hot  summer  months  do  not  allow  the  ground  immediately 
around  the  Pear  trees  to  become  hard  and  dry.  Either  cover  it  with 
manure,  or  run  the  hoe  over  it  frequently,  so  as  to  keep  the  surface  soil 
loose  to  maintain  moisture  by  reducing  evaporation.  In  a  dry  season 
water  hardy  fruit  trees  in  the  open  sometimes,  especially  when  the  fruits 


PEAR   DOYENNE  DU   CO  MICE,    TRAINED   HORIZON- 
TALLY   ON  A    WALL. 


CULTIVATION    OF   FRUIT  433 

are  developing,  as  this  is  beneficial.  By  mulching  and  maintaining  a 
loose  surface  much  may  be  done  to  lessen  the  labour  of  watering. 

Pear  Trees  on  Walls.— The  usual  forms  of  Pear  trees  trained 
against  walls  are  the  horizontal,  the  fan-shaped,  and  the  upright  or 
oblique  single,  double,  or  triple  cordons.  If  the  wall  is  high,  a  fan- 
trained  tree  would  cover  it  more  quickly  than  a  horizontally-trained 
one.  This  method  is  not,  however,  so  extensively  practised  as  formerly. 
Horizontal-trained  trees  are  preferred,  and,  during  development,  so  that 
the  space  between  them  shall  not  be  wasted,  the  wall  is  planted  with 
cordons.  Horizontal-trained  trees,  grafted  on  the  Quince  stock, 
should  be  planted  about  15  feet  apart,  and  the  stem  kept  at  least  8 
inches  from  the  wall  so  as  to  allow  plenty  of  room  for  future  growth. 
The  formation  of  a  tree  of  this  description,  which  is  not  at  all  difficult, 
is  carried  out  in  the  following  way :  Suppose  that  after  having  been 
grafted,  one  season's  growth  has  taken  place.  In  the  winter  cut  down 
the  shoot  to  three  buds;  two  of  the  latter  should  be  about  12  inches 
above  ground,  for  the  shoots  from  them  will  eventually  form  the  primary 
horizontal  branches.  The  shoot  from  the  third  bud  is  trained  upwards 
to  form  the  leader.  Allow  the  shoots  from  the  two  side-buds  to  grow 
in  an  oblique  direction  until  well  on  in  summer,  and  bring  them  down 
to  a  horizontal  position  later.  They  naturally  grow  more  vigorously  in 
the  former  position.  Next  winter  the  upright  leader  is  pruned  to  three 
buds,  exactly  as  the  maiden  shoot  the  previous  season.  The  two 
side-buds  should  again  be  about  12  inches  above  the  primary  hori- 
zontal branches.  Thus  from  these  buds  two  more  horizontal  shoots 
will  again  develop,  and  from  the  third  one,  an  upright  shoot  for  the 
leader  will  be  formed.  This  practice  is  repeated  until  the  tree  has 
attained  the  desired  height.  In  order  to  strengthen  the  horizontal 
branches,  the  growth  made  every  summer  should  be  slightly  shortened 
the  following  winter.  Laterals  will  develop  from  them,  and  until  the 
tree  has  become  established,  say  for  two  seasons,  they  may  be  allowed 
to  grow  freely  during  the  summer,  so  as  to  render  the  branches  as 
vigorous  as  possible.  Allow  each  branch  to  grow  in  a  slanting  direc- 
tion during  summer,  and  bring  them  down  at  right  angles  to  the  stem  in 
the  autumn.  When  the  tree  is  well  established,  instead  of  allowing  the 
laterals  to  fully  develop,  pinch  them  back  to  five  or  six  leaves  in  summer, 
and  in  winter  prune  them  to  three  buds,  so  as  to  induce  the  formation 
of  artificial  fruit  spurs,  if  there  is  room  for  them ;  if  not,  cut  out  the 
shoots  altogether. 

Fan-trained  Trees. — The  formation  of  a  fan-trained  tree  is  equally 
simple :  Cut  the  maiden  shoot  down  to  three  buds,  exactly  as  advised 
for  a  horizontally-trained  tree.  The  resulting  growths  from  the  two  side- 
buds  may  be  treated  as  in  the  last-mentioned  form,  for  they  will  con- 
stitute the  two  lowest  branches.  The  leading  shoot,  however,  must  be 
cut  back  to  three  good  buds  somewhere  near  to  its  base.  After  shoots 
have  grown  from  these  the  following  summer,  in  winter  each  one  is 
also  pruned  back  in  the  same  manner.  Thus,  at  the  end  of  the  third 
season  there  would  be  nine  branches  in  all.  In  the  winter,  after  their 

2  E 


434 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


season  of  growth,  the  various  branches  should  be  brought  down  and 
secured  several  inches  above  the  branch  immediately  beneath.  Thus 
it  will  be  seen  that  the  tree  in  time  assumes  somewhat  the  shape  of  a 
fan ;  hence  the  name  of  this  particular  method  of  training.  The 
branches  as  they  extend  will,  of  course,  leave  a  larger  space  between 
them,  necessitating  the  production  of  more  of  the  former  to  properly 
cover  the  wall.  These  may  be  easily  produced  by  shortening  back  one 


FIG.  29. — Pear.     First  branches  of  fan-trained  tree.     (See  text.) 

or  more  branches  to  buds  situated  where  it  is  desired  that  new  branches 
shall  originate. 

Cordons. — Cordon  Pear  trees  are  strongly  recommended  for  a  small 
grower.  They  cover  a  wall  very  quickly,  usually  bear  a  good  crop  of 
fruit,  and  are  easily  managed.  Cordons  are  known  as  single,  double, 
treble,  &c.,  according  to  the  number  of  stems ;  they  may  either  be  trained 
in  an  upright  or  slanting  direction.  If  the  wall  to  be  covered  is  a  low 
one,  the  latter  method  is  to  be  recommended,  for  then  the  Pear  tree 
would  be  able  to  grow  to  a  greater  length  than  if  trained  perpendicularly. 
When  it  becomes  necessary  to  restrict  them  considerably  by  severe 
pruning,  canker  is  liable  to  set  in,  and  some  of  the  branches  probably 
die  away.  Double  or  treble-stemmed  Cordons  are  preferable  for  a  low 
wall,  as  the  trees  are  able  then  to  extend  farther  and  grow  more 
freely.  The  various  stems  should  be  not  less  than  1 2  inches  apart ; 
in  planting  Cordons  with  several  stems  this,  therefore,  must  be  taken 
into  consideration.  As  the  stems  extend,  natural  fruit  spurs  will  doubt- 
less form.  Lateral  shoots  must  be  stopped  exactly  as  advised  before, 


CULTIVATION   OF   FRUIT 


435 


i.e.  in  summer  five  or  six  leaves,  and  pruned  in  winter  to  three  buds. 
When  this  practice  is  followed  and  care  is  taken  that  the  spurs  do  not 
crowd  each  other  so  as  to  exclude  the  sun  and  air,  a  fruitful  tree  will 
invariably  result. 

Pruning  the  Spurs. — It  is  sometimes  necessary  to  prune  the  spurs, 
so  as  to  keep  them  near  the  wall.  In  time  they  get  so  far  away  as 
to  derive  no  benefit  from  its  warmth  and  shelter,  and  must  therefore 
be  shortened.  Upon  fruit  spurs  there  are  two  kinds  of  buds — plump, 
oval-shaped  ones,  the  blossom-buds ;  and  thin,  elongated  ones  known  as 


FIG.  30. — Pear.     Fan-shaped,  second  year. 

"  spur-buds."  These  produce  leaves  only,  and  if,  as  sometimes  happens, 
the  spurs  of  a  Pear  tree  have  numerous  spur-buds  and  comparatively  few 
flower-buds,  the  best  practice  is  to  thin  out  at  the  winter  pruning  or 
severely  shorten  back  those  spurs  on  the  upper  part  of  the  tree,  and  to 
treat  those  in  the  middle  and  lower  branches  more  leniently.  The 
object  of  so  doing  is  to  equalise  the  distribution  of  the  sap — for  the 
lower  portion  of  the  tree  is  invariably  the  weaker — a  condition  that 
tends  to  decrease  the  number  of  barren  and  useless  spurs  by  promoting 
the  formation  of  flower-buds. 

Root-pruning. — This  sometimes  necessary  and  beneficial  operation 
is  fully  explained  in  the  chapter  on  the  Apple  (p.  425);  it  is  usually  upon 
trees  worked  on  the  Pear  stock  that  root-pruning  is  required.  Instead 
of  simply  making  a  trench  around  the  Pear  tree  to  arrive  at  the  offend- 
ing roots,  if  the  former  be  not  very  large  it  may  be  lifted  altogether ; 
and  its  roots,  that  will  probably  have  found  their  way  into  the  subsoil, 
cut  back  and  placed  in  a  proper  position  nearer  to  the  surface  of  the 
ground. 


436 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


Good  Varieties.— A  list  of  these  will  be  found  in  the  tables  on 
page  606. 

Thinning  the  Fruit. — If  the  spring  is  a  favourable  one,  free  from 
late  frosts,  more  fruits  "  set "  upon  a  Pear  tree  than  the  latter  can 
properly  bring  to  maturity.  It  is,  therefore,  necessary  to  remove  some 
of  them  so  that  the  remaining  ones  may  reach  a  satisfactory  size  and 
develop  a  good  flavour.  The  flowers  of  the  Pear  are  borne  in  small 
bunches  of  six  or  eight,  known  as  corymbs.  All  except  one  or  two  of 
these,  when  set,  must  be  pinched  off  in  thinning ;  it  may  be  even 
necessary  to  remove  some  of  the  bunches  altogether.  Upon  a  healthy 


FIG.  31. — Pear.     Fan-shaped,  third  year. 


tree  in  a  favourable  season  the  flowers  are  extremely  numerous ;  the 
branches  are  one  mass  of  white  from  apex  to  base,  so  that  to  leave 
even  one  or  two  fruits  in  each  corymb  would  be  a  mistake.  Sharp 
frosts,  when  the  flowers  are  open,  mean  that  probably  none,  or  very 
little,  thinning  will  be  required.  It  is  a  great  mistake  to  allow  a  fruit 
tree  to  mature  a  very  heavy  crop  of  fruit,  for  the  following  year  at 
least  it  will  be  almost  barren.  A  far  better  practice  is  to  leave  a 
moderate  quantity  of  fruit  each  year,  so  that  the  tree  may  not  have  to 
expend  the  whole  of  its  energy  in  developing  and  maturing  the  former 
at  the  expense  of  forming  wood  and  nourishing  its  buds  for  another 
season. 

Gathering  the  Fruit. — The  simplest  way  to  learn  when  a  Pear  is 
in  condition  for  gathering  is  to  raise  it  gently  until  the  fruit  is  almost 


CULTIVATION   OF   FRUIT  437 

on  a  level  with  the  stalk.  If  ready  to  be  removed  it  will  part  easily  at 
the  point  where  it  leaves  the  spur.  If  the  fruit,  however,  does  not 
appear  to  separate  at  that  point  it  should  be  left  longer.  Several 
Pears,  notably  Williams'  Bon  Chretien,  must  be  gathered  before  the 
above  stage  or  they  will  be  found  quite  soft  inside  and  unfit  for  use. 
Flemish  Beauty  and  Doyenne  Bussoch  are  also  of  this  class.  The 
early  Pears — Citron  des  Carmes,  Doyenne  d'Ete,  Clapp's  Favourite, 
Jargonelle,  &c.,  will  not  keep,  and  must  be  consumed  almost  as  soon  as 
gathered.  Do  not  leave  any  fruits  upon  the  trees  after  the  first  week 
in  November,  or  they  will  be  liable  to  sustain  considerable  damage  from 
high  winds.  It  is  advisable,  however,  to  let  all  the  Pears  remain  out 
of  doors  as  long  as  possible.  Avoid  squeezing  the  former  when  gather- 
ing them,  for  every  bruise  will  become  visible  in  the  course  of  a  few 
days,  and  lead  to  decay.  If  it  is  desired  to  have  late  Pears  through- 
out the  winter  months  a  cool,  regular  temperature  is  essential,  and  the 
atmosphere  of  the  fruit  room  also  must  be  dry. 

Specially-constructed  rooms  for  storing  fruit  are  usually  fitted  with 
shelves  about  2  inches  wide,  and  i  inch  apart.  The  fruit  resting 
between  these  always  has  a  free  circulation  of  air  around  it.  Examine 
the  fruits  from  time  to  time,  in  order  that  all  showing  signs  of  decay 
may  be  at  once  removed. 

The  Grape  Vine. — It  is  surprising  that  a  fruit  so  delicious  and 
wholesome  as  the  Grape  should  not  be  grown  more  by  amateurs.  In 
many  a  small  greenhouse  throughout  the  country  excellent  Grapes 
might  be  annually  produced. 

The  house  in  which  the  Vines  are  grown  may  either  be  span-roofed 
or  lean-to.  The  span-roofed  structure  is,  however,  decidedly  prefer- 
able, for  in  a  house  of  this  design  less  space  is  wasted.  It  should  be 
built  with  the  ends  facing  north  and  south,  as  it  then  receives  an  equal 
amount  of  sunlight  practically  all  over. 

In  early  morning  the  eastern  side  would  have  the  benefit  of  the 
sun,  and  the  western  side  in  the  afternoon  and  evening ;  while  with  the 
sun  high  in  the  heavens,  both  would  benefit  equally.  If  the  house 
were  built  to  face  east  and  west,  the  southern  side  would  receive  the 
sun's  rays  almost  the  whole  day,  whereas  the  northern  side  would  be 
scarcely  touched  by  the  sun  at  all. 

Equally  good  Grapes  can  be  grown  in  a  lean-to  vinery  as  in  a  span- 
roofed  house,  and  if  one  desires  to  have  Grapes  early  in  the  season,  the 
former  structure  is  suitable. 

The  Border. — Prepare  a  well-drained  and  suitable  border,  for,  if 
the  material  from  which  the  roots  derive  nourishment  for  the  support 
of  the  plant  does  not  meet  their  requirements,  the  Vine  cannot  thrive. 
Whether  the  border  be  made  inside  or  outside  the  vinery  must  largely 
depend  upon  circumstances.  When  the  interior  of  the  house  is 
required  for  the  accommodation  of  other  plants  the  border  must  be 
outside.  For  the  cultivation  of  mid- season  and  late  Vines  no  other 
need  be  wished  for  ;  if,  however,  it  is  desired  to  have  forced  Grapes  in 
early  spring,  an  inside  border  is  preferable,  because  the  temperature  of 


438 


GARDENING   FOR  BEGINNERS 


the  soil  would  be  higher  and  more  even  than  would  that  of  an  outside 
border,  and  so  conduce  to  early  root  action  and  growth. 

The  depth  of  the  border  should  be  3  feet,  and  for  the  first  year 
need  not  be  more  than  4  feet  wide.  It  is  a  far  better  practice  to 
make  a  small  border  when  planting,  and  add  a  little  fresh  soil  every 
year,  than  to  at  once  construct  a  large  border,  that  by  the  time  it  is 
full  of  roots  will  probably  have  become  sour.  If  the  subsoil  is  known 


FIG.  32. — Vines  in  span-roofed  house :  all  space  utilised. 


to  be  heavy  and  close,  small  drain-pipes  must  be  placed  in  the  bottom, 
3   feet   apart,   sloping  towards  the  front  of  the  vinery,  if  the 


2    or 


border  be  inside,  and  away  from  it  if  outside,  and  in  each  case  be  con- 
nected with  a  main  drain.  If,  however,  the  subsoil  is  dry  and  gravelly, 
and  therefore  porous,  drain-pipes  are  not  required.  Supposing  these  to 
have  been  placed  in,  if  necessary,  and  carefully  covered  with  large 
stones  to  prevent  breakage;  sufficient  brick  rubble  should  be  placed 
over  the  bottom  of  the  border  to  make  a  covering  9  inches  deep. 
This  makes  a  splendid  foundation  for  a  Vine  border,  and  affords  ex- 
cellent drainage. 

To  prevent  the  soil  from  choking  the  drainage  up,  fill  the  remaining 


CULTIVATION   OF   FRUIT  439 

space  chiefly  with  turfy  loam — the  coarser  the  better.  If  broken  up 
into  very  small  particles,  it  does  not  remain  sweet  and  wholesome  so 
long  as  when  turves  chopped  into  about  four  pieces  are  used,  neither 
does  it  afford  so  attractive  a  rooting  medium  as  coarse  fibrous 
loam. 

To  ensure  annual  crops  of  Grapes,  mix  other  ingredients  with  the 


FIG.  33. — Vines  in  lean-to  house  :  back  wall  practically  useless. 

loam.  Two  of  the  most  easily  obtainable,  and  at  the  same  time 
the  most  valuable,  are  wood  ashes,  and  lime  and  brick  rubble. 
The  latter  allows  the  water  to  pass  freely  through  the  border,  thus 
preventing  the  soil  becoming  sour  through  the  presence  of  stagnant 
water.  In  a  heavy,  clayey  soil,  naturally  more  of  this  would  be 
required  than  in  a  sandy  one.  Wood  ashes  are  excellent  for  mixing 


440 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


in  the  soil  of  a  Vine  border ;  they  contain  a  large  amount  of  potash, 
proved  by  analysis  to  be  one  of  the  chief  constituents  of  the  Vine. 

After  a  good  sprinkling  of  some  trustworthy  artificial  manure,  the 
whole  of  the  above  ingredients  must  be  well  turned  over,  and  thoroughly 
mixed  together.  Then  place  sufficient  of  the  prepared  compost  over 


4th 


3rd 


2nd 


ist  year 


FIG.  34. — Section  of  half  span-roofed  house.    Way  to  make  Vine 
border,  gradually  adding  new  soil  yearly. 

the  turves  to  make  the  border  of  the  required  height,  making  it  quite 
firm  as  it  is  put  in  by  well  treading  it  down.  Finally,  give  a  good  soak- 
ing of  water,  and  allow  a  day  or  two  to  elapse  before  planting. 

Planting. — Vines  are  best  planted  sometime  during  the  summer, 
when  they  are  growing  freely.  If  possible,  do  not  delay  planting  young 
Vines  after  June  or  July ;  they  are  then  making  roots  freely,  and  will 
quickly  take  hold  of  the  new  soil.  Until  required  for  permanent  plant- 
ing, young  Vines  are  usually  cultivated  in  pots.  Care  is  necessary  when 
taking  them  out  of  the  latter  not  to  break  or  damage  the  roots.  Take 
care  that  the  hole  made  to  receive  the  Vine  is  so  large  that  there  is  a 
clear  space  of  12  inches  around  the  roots.  Remove  the  surface  soil, 
disengage  some  of  the  roots  that  will  have  probably  become  matted 


CULTIVATION   OF   FRUIT 


44 i 


together  in  the  pot,  remove  the  crocks,  and  spread  out  the  former  as 
well  as  possible.  If  the  mass  of  soil  and  roots  be  left  intact,  as  taken 
from  the  pot,  it  is  likely  to  become  dry,  and  the  roots  also  cannot 
push  into  the  new  soil  when  they  are  matted  and  twisted  together. 
Arrange  the  roots,  as  far  as  possible,  in  different  layers,  placing  them 
out  carefully  in  a  horizontal  direction.  After  covering  over  one  layer 
with  soil,  make  this  firm  before  placing  on  the  next.  The  uppermost 


FIG.  35.— Section  of  Vine  border. 
A,  prepared  soil;  B,  turves;  C,  drainage  ;  D,  subsoil. 

roots  may  easily  be  kept  back  until  required  by  turning  them  upwards 
to  the  stem ;  keep  them  down  by  means  of  pieces  of  turf. 

Do  not  plant  the  Vines  (supposing  the  border  to  be  inside)  within 
1 8  inches  of  the  hot- water  pipes,  and,  if  planted  outside,  place 
them  as  near  to  the  wall  of  the  vinery  as  possible.  It  is  a  mistake  to 
have  much  of  the  stem  exposed. 

During  cold  weather,  straw,  or  some  other  material,  should  be  put 
over  the  base  of  the  stem  outside,  or  the  Vine,  if  growing  or  carrying 
a  crop  of  fruit,  would  suffer  severely.  The  distance  apart  at  which 
Vines  should  be  planted  depends  largely  upon  the  variety  (for  some  are 
much  stronger  in  growth  than  the  others),  and  also  whether  it  is 
intended  to  force  them  early  in  the  season  or  allow  them  to  start 
naturally.  For  the  more  vigorous  ones,  such  as  Alicante,  Gros 
Guillaume,  and  Syrian,  a  space  of  3  feet  6  inches  or  4  feet  be- 


442 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


tween  each  is  necessary,  while  Foster's  Seedling,  Black  Hamburgh, 
and  Lady  Downe's  Seedling  do  not  require  more  than  3  feet.  When 
hard  forcing  is  practised  for  a  supply  of  early  Grapes,  the  Vines  will 
be  wide  enough  apart  at  2  feet  6  inches. 

Always  make  sure  that  the  Vines  are  thoroughly  well  watered 
before  being  taken  out  of  the  pots.  If  dry  when  planted,  it  is  difficult 
to  water  them  properly  afterwards.  Instead  of  running  through  the 
hard  mass  of  soil  and  roots,  the  water  makes  its  way  into  the  more 


FIG.  36.— Pot  Vine  as 
it  appears  when  re- 
moved from  the  pot. 


FIG.  37.— Pot  Vine.    As  it  should  be 
prepared  for  planting. 


porous  border,  leaving  the  former  quite  dry,  although  this  perhaps  may 
not  be  found  out  until  the  plant  begins  to  suffer. 

Treatment  after  Planting. — Encourage  the  Vines  to  grow 
vigorously,  as  that  means  they  quickly  become  established.  On 
sunny  days  the  ventilators  may  be  opened  fairly  wide — several  inches 
both  on  the  top  and  also  at  the  front  of  the  house.  About  three 
o'clock,  however,  they  should  be  altogether  closed.  The  temperature 
of  the  vinery  will  then  naturally  increase,  and  if,  at  the  same  time,  the 
Vines  are  syringed  and  the  walls  and  floors  moistened,  a  genial  atmos- 
phere most  favourable  to  growth  will  result.  Towards  the  end  of 
summer  the  wood  of  the  Vine  begins  to  turn  a  yellowish-white.  This 
is  a  sign  that  growth  has  practically  ceased,  and  that  the  ripening  or 
maturation  of  the  wood  has  begun.  It  is  clear,  therefore,  that  to  still 


CULTIVATION   OF  FRUIT 


443 


C, 


FIG.  3&  —  Vine.     Showing  method 
of  planting. 


maintain  a  warm,  moist  atmosphere — so  conducive  to  growth — would 

be  useless.     More  air  and  less  heat  and  moisture  should  now  be  given 

gradually,  until  in  a  few  weeks' 

time    the    vinery   is    kept    com- 
pletely cool,  the  ventilators  being 

left  open  night  and  day.     By  the 

month   of  December  the  wood 

will  have  thoroughly  ripened,  the 

leaves  have  fallen,  and  the  buds 

in  the  axils  of  them  have  fully 

developed. 

At  this  period  it  is  necessary, 

strange  though  it  may  seem,  to 

cut  down  the  Vine   cane — that 

probably  has  reached  half-way  up 
the  roof 
of  the 
house  — 
to  within 
two  good 
buds  of 
its  base, 

i.e.  usually  about  2  or  3  inches  above  ground. 
The  object  of  this  operation  is  to  establish  the 
Vine  well  before  allowing  it  to  bear  fruit,  and 
also  to  enable  it  to  form  a  good,  strong  stem. 
It  is  evident  that  if  the  first  year's  cane  were 
left  half  or  the  whole  of  its  length,  and  the 
following  year  side  shoots  were  allowed  to  de- 
velop, both  the  former  and  the  latter  would  be 
very  weak.  Keep  the  vinery  quite  cool  until 
the  first  week  in  April,  when  it  may  be  closed. 
No  fire  heat  is  necessary,  except  in  very  cold 
weather. 

A  night  temperature  of  50  degrees  is 
sufficient  for  the  first  few  weeks.  When  the 
thermometer  registers  65  degrees  during  the 
day  the  top  ventilators  should  be  opened  2 
or  3  inches,  and  if  the  sun  continues  to  shine 
more  air,  both  at  the  top  and  front  of  the 
vinery,  must  be  given  in  the  course  of  an  hour 
/  /  '  or  so.  Syringe  the  pathways  and  walks  of  the 

FIG.  39.— Vine.   One  year  house  occasionally,  especially  when  the  venti- 

old.     Prune  to  dotted  lators  are  closed  in  the  afternoon.     The  ther- 

lines.  mometer    then    may   register    as    high   as   80 

degrees  without  any  danger.    Taking  advantage 

of  the  heat  of  the  sun  in  this  way  lessens  the  need  of  so  much  fire  heat, 

and  is  far  better  for  the  Vines.     A  house  that  is  thus  thoroughly  warmed 


444 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


by  the  sun  will  not  fall  below  50  degrees  during  the  night  unless  it  is 
exceptionally  cold  outside.  In  a  month's  time  from  closing  the  vinery 
increase  the  night  temperature  to  55  degrees,  and  a  few  weeks  after- 
wards to  60  degrees,  at  which  it  may  remain  throughout  the  growing 
season.  Cut  back  to  one  leaf  all  side  shoots  that  make  their  appear- 
ance during  summer,  so  that  every  opportunity  of  making  good  growth 
may  be  given  to  the  main  rod.  When  in  early  autumn 
signs  of  ripening  are  noticeable  in  the  wood,  more  air 
must  be  given  and  less  moisture,  as  before  advised.  It 
will  thus  be  seen  that  during  the  first  ;two  seasons 
after  planting  the  Vine  is  not  at  all  difficult  to 
manage.  It  may  thus  be  summarised : 
During  the  growing  season,  from  April 
to  August,  provide  a  warm,  moist  at- 
mosphere, and  be  careful  to  see 
that  the  border  is  well  watered 
whenever  the  soil  appears 
dry.  When  the  wood 
begins  to  ripen  gradually 
decrease  the  moisture 
and  heat,  and  increase 
the  amount  of  air,  until 
finally  the  ventilators  are 
kept  open  night  and  day. 
The  border  must  not  be 
allowed  to  become  dry 
during  winter,  for  the 
roots  of  the  Vine  are 
alive  and  require  nourish- 
ment. Naturally  they  will 
not  absorb  so  much  water 
when  the  Vines  were 
in  full  leaf,  but  to  let  the 
soil  of  the  border  get 
quite  dry  is  fatal.  In  the 
winter  following,  if  the 
Vine  has  grown  vigor- 
ously and  become,  say, 
as  thick  as  one's  thumb, 
the  cane  may  be  left 
about  4  feet  long.  If,  however,  it  is  somewhat  weak,  shorten  it  again. 
Presuming,  however,  that  the  Vine  has  succeeded  well  enough  to  be  left 
4  feet  long  at  the  second  winter  pruning  the  cultivator  may  expect  to 
have  two  or  three  bunches  of  Grapes  the  following  summer.  The  apex 
of  the  young  cane  will  now  reach  some  little  distance  along  the  wire  trellis 
suspended  about  18  inches  away  from  the  roof.  Rub  off  all  the  buds 
upon  the  stem  of  the  young  Vine,  beginning  with  the  lowest,  to  within 
the  two  below  the  trellis,  for  if  shoots  were  allowed  to  grow  from  them 


FIG.  40. — Young  Vine  after  second  year's  growth. 
Way  to  prune  back. 


CULTIVATION   OF   FRUIT 


445 


they  would  never  be  of  use  on  account  of  the  nearness  of  the  hot-water 
pipes  and  the  absence  of  light.     Give  exactly  the  same  conditions  and 


FIG.  41. — First  stage  in  tying  down  Vine  shoot. 


9$ 

% 

FIG.  42. — Second  stage  in  tying  down  Vine  shoot. 

temperatures  as  were  afforded  the  two  previous  seasons,  and  the  re- 
maining buds  will  soon  push  forth.     The  one  near  to  the  apex  of  the 


446 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


Vine  must  be  trained  towards  the  top  of  the  vinery  to  form  the  leader, 
and  those  that  push  from  the  other  buds  are  trained  horizontally. 
These  horizontal  shoots  must  not  be  closer  than  about  15  inches,  so 
that  it  will  probably  be  necessary  to  remove  some  of  them.  In  doing 
this  endeavour  to  leave  the  shoots,  so  that  those  on  the  one  side 
alternate  with  those  on  the  other. 

When  the  tender  young  shoots  have  almost  reached  the  roof  tie 
them  down  to  the  trellis  so  as  to  keep  them  from  being  scorched  or 
injured  by  cold,  and  also  train  them  in  the  required  direction.  This 
work  requires  care,  for  the  young  growths  break  off  easily  at  the  base. 
Place  a  piece  of  matting  (raffia)  over  the  shoot,  about  3  inches 


FIG.  43. — Last  stage  in  tying  down  Vine  shoot 


away  from  its  apex,  and  draw  it  gently  away  from  the  roof.  Tie 
the  other  end  of  the  matting  to  the  trellis.  Do  not  make  a  double 
knot,  for  in  the  course  of  a  few  days  the  matting  can  be  drawn 
considerably  tighter,  sufficiently  so  perhaps  to  bring  the  shoot  half- 
way down  between  the  trellis  and  roof.  After  several  days  have 
elapsed  it  will  bend  easily  to  the  trellis,  and  may  then  be  finally  tied. 
Soon  afterwards  laterals  will  develop  from  the  shoot  cut  back,  or  these 
also  must  be  stopped  when  they  have  made  two  or  three  leaves.  Some 
of  the  side  shoots  are  almost  certain  to  bear  bunches  ;  but  all  the  latter, 
except  two  or  three,  should  be  removed,  as  to  allow  the  Vine  to  carry  a 
heavy  crop  of  fruit  at  so  early  a  stage  of  its  existence  would  be  unwise. 
Encourage  the  Vine  to  grow  freely  by  keeping  the  house  warm  and 
moist,  and  giving  the  same  temperatures  as  previously  mentioned. 


CULTIVATION   OF   FRUIT 


447 


When,  however,  the  Vines  come  into  flower  a  drier  atmosphere  is 
required,  so  that  the  pollen  from  the  stamens  of  the  flowers  may  be 
easily  dispersed.  If  the  pollen  becomes  damp  through  too  much 
moisture  in  the  vinery,  it  is  naturally  not  so  easily  dispersed  as  when 
perfectly  dry,  and  in  this  case  imperfect  fertilisation  would  ensue,  or,  as 
it  is  popularly  expressed,  the  Grapes  fail  to  "  set "  well.  The  necessity 
for  a  drier  atmosphere  and 
more  air  is  therefore  easily  ap- 
parent. It  is  an  excellent  plan 
to  gently  (shake  the  Vines 
every  day  when  they  are  in 
flower.  In  the  course  of  a  few 
days  if  fertilisation  be  effected 
(and  most  varieties  of  Grapes 
set  easily  if  the  above  con- 
ditions are  afforded)  the  berries 
begin  to  increase  in  size 
quickly.  When  this  is  notice- 
able keep  the  house  warm  and 
moist  again  to  assist  the 
Grapes  to  swell  as  rapidly  as 
possible. 

When  the  berries  have  be- 
come almost  as  large  as  peas 
remove  a  great  many  of  them 
("  thinning "  is  the  technical 
term  for  this  work)  so  as  to 
allow  the  remaining  ones 
sufficient  space  for  develop- 
ment. A  pair  of  Grape  scissors, 
with  long  tapering  points,  and 
a  small  forked  stick,  about  9 
inches  long,  are  required.  In 
thinning,  hold  the  stem  of  the 
bunch  by  means  of  the  forked 
stick  with  the  left  hand,  and 
cut  away  the  superfluous  berries 


FIG.  44.— An  unthinned  bunch  of  Grapes. 


with  the  scissors  in  the  right 
hand.  Commence  at  the  bot- 
tom of  the  bunch,  and  remove 

first  the  small  seedless  berries,  then  most  of  those  inside,  and  finally  the 
necessary  number  of  the  remaining  ones.  It  is  impossible  to  say  how 
many  berries  should  be  removed,  but  taking,  for  example,  the  well- 
known  variety,  Black  Hamburgh,  in  a  properly  thinned  bunch  about 
half  the  berries  will  have  been  cut  away.  These,  when  finally  thinned, 
should  be  about  half  an  inch  apart.  Keep  in  view  the  shape  of  the 
bunch,  and  endeavour  to  equally  regulate  the  distance  between  the 
berries.  Always  leave  a  good  number  upon  the  uppermost  shoulders, 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

which  must  be  looped  to  the  trellis  above  with  a  piece  of  matting  if 
they  droop  down.  It  is  necessary  to  look  over  the  bunches  in  the 
course  of  two  or  three  weeks,  for  some  of  the  berries  may  have  been 
left  too  thickly  when  first  thinned.  When  four  leaves  have  developed 
beyond  the  bunch  of  Grapes,  pinch  back  the  shoot  to  within  two  or 
three  leaves  of  the  bunch,  according  to  the  amount  of  space  at  disposal. 

Sometimes  the  bunch 
originates  nearer  the 
base  of  the  shoot 
than  at  other  times, 
thus  allowing  space 
for  leaves  beyond. 

As  the  berries 
are  swelling  freely,  a 
night  temperature  of 
65  degrees  should  be 
maintained,  and  little 
fire  heat  is  necessary 
in  early  summer.  In 
a  few  weeks'  time,  it 
will  be  noticed  that 
the  berries  have  ap- 
parently ceased  to 
swell.  What  is  known 
as  the  stoning  period 
has  arrived,  and  for 
about  a  fortnight,  or 
rather  more,  no 
material  difference  is 
visible  in  the  size  of 
the  berries.  The 
reason  is  that  the 
energies  of  the  Vine 
are  then  directed  to- 
wards the  develop- 
ment of  the  seeds. 
On  no  account  allow 
a  high  temperature 
to  prevail  at  this 
period,  for  the  ber- 
ries cannot  then  be  forced  to  swell,  and  injury  might  easily  result.  It 
is  not  difficult  to  discern  when  the  stoning  period  is  over,  for  the  berries 
again  quickly  increase  in  size,  and  continue  to  do  so  for  several  weeks. 
Still  close  the  house  early  in  the  afternoon,  and  moisten  the  walls,  &c., 
to  create  a  warm,  genial  atmosphere.  A  considerable  quantity  of  water 
is  now  required.  The  border  must  not  become  dry,  or  a  check  to  the 
plant  and  its  fruit  results.  Liquid  manure  water  is  beneficial  at  this 
period.  Before  many  weeks  have  passed,  some  of  the  bunches  will 


FIG.  45. — Bunch  of  Grapes  properly  thinned. 


CULTIVATION   OF   FRUIT 


449 


begin  to  change  colour.     At  first  they  are  tinged  with  light  red,  become 

reddish-black,  and  finally  black.     As  soon  as  signs  of  colouring  are 

noticed,  sprinkle  a  little  water  about  the  house,  and  give  more  air. 

After    several     days     when    the 

change  in  colour  becomes  general,    \ 

increase  the  amount  of  air,  and    * 

also  leave  the  ventilators  slightly 

open   at  night.      Discontinue  to 

moisten  the  walls,  paths,  &c.     In 

a  few  weeks'  time  the  vinery  may 

be  thrown  quite  open  during  the 

day,   and   partially   so    at   night, 

until  the  fruit  is  cut.     Then  keep 

it  quite  cool.      Do  not  diminish 

the    fire    heat    at   all   until    the 

Grapes    are    well    coloured,    and 

even  when  they  are  ripe,  a  little 

heat  should   still  be  maintained 

so   as  to  avoid  damp   upon  the 

bunches. 

Pruning. — This  is  an  import- 
ant operation  in  the  culture  of 
the  Vine.  The  system  in  almost 
universal  practice  in  this  country, 
and  undoubtedly  the  best  and 
most  convenient,  is  that  known 

as  spur  pruning.  Let  us  take  as  an  illustration  a  young  Vine  that  has 
made  three  seasons'  growth,  the  one  we  have  hitherto  considered.  At  the 
end  of  the  first  season  after  being  planted,  it  will  be  remembered  that 


FIG.  46. — Vine.    Winter  pruning. 
Dotted  lines  =  where  to  cut  back  to. 


FIG.  47. — Showing  where  to  stop  primary  shoot  of  Vine. 
Two  or  three  leaves  beyond  the  bunch.     Dotted  lines  denote  where  to  cut. 

the  Vine  rod  was  cut  back  to  two  eyes,  the  next  year  left  4  feet  long, 
and  the  following  spring  horizontal  shoots  were  allowed  to  develop 
from  the  higher  portion  of  this,  and  the  leader  was  trained  up  the 

2  F 


450 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


trellis  towards  the  roof  of  the  vinery.  At  the  third  winter  pruning 
leave  this  leading  shoot  2  or  3  feet  longer  than  it  was  at  the 
beginning  of  the  year;  it  will  now  therefore  be  about  7  feet  in 
length.  The  horizontal  shoots  are  to  form  permanent  fruit  spurs. 
Shorten  them  back  to  within  one  or  two  buds  of  the  base ;  to  one,  if 
the  basal  bud  is  well  developed  and  hard,  and  to  two  if  the  lowest  is 
not  a  good  one.  The  same  principle  applies  here  as  when  the  young 
Vine  was  cut  down  at  the  end  of  the  first  year  after  planting.  If  the 
shoot  under  consideration  were  left  at  full  length  it  would  be  weak  and 
useless.  By  pruning  the  shoots  that  have  grown  from  the  spurs 
during  summer  to  the  one  or  two  lowest  buds  every  winter  the  Vine  is 
kept  within  proper  bounds,  and  may  be  cultivated  for  many  years  in  a 


FIG.  48. — Development  of  laterals.     Stop  at  dotted  lines. 

comparatively  small  space.  Do  not  leave  more  than  two  buds  at  the 
annual  December  pruning,  and  two  only  when  the  last  one  is  not  well 
developed.  If  the  shoot  is  left  an  inch  or  more  in  length  every  winter, 
the  spur  soon  becomes  long,  unsightly,  and  weak.  Until  the  leading 
shoot  reaches  the  top  of  the  vinery,  it  may  be  cut  back  at  the  end  of 
each  season  to  within  about  3  feet  of  where  it  commenced  to  grow 
the  previous  spring. 

Watering. — Watering  must  not  be  overlooked.  From  the  time  the 
berries  commence  to  swell  until  the  Grapes  are  ripe,  an  abundance  of 
water  is  necessary.  The  border  should  never  be  allowed  to  become 
dry.  After  the  first  mentioned  period  give  stimulants  occasionally, 
either  in  the  form  of  artificial  manure,  sprinkled  in  the  border,  and 
slightly  forked  in  before  watering,  or  of  liquid  farmyard  manure.  It  is 
important  not  to  allow  the  Vines  to  suffer  from  want  of  water  after  the 
fruit  is  cut,  for  then  the  buds  are  being  matured  for  another  season's 


CULTIVATION   OF   FRUIT  451 

growth.     Water  is  hardly  needed  from  after  pruning  until  the  Vines 
have  been  started  several  weeks. 

Varieties. — Undoubtedly  the  best  of  all  Grapes  for  the  amateur  is — 

Black  Hamburgh,  unless  very  late  Grapes  are  required.  This  variety 
may  be  ripened  by  the  month  of  May,  and  also  throughout  the  summer 
until  October  and  November.  It  has  an  excellent  constitution,  bears 
well,  sets  freely,  and  the  fruit  ripens  quickly. 

Foster's  Seedling — a  white  Grape — is  almost,  if  not  equally  as  good. 
It  also  may  be  had  in  perfection  in  May,  and,  like  Black  Hamburgh, 
has  a  good  constitution.  The  berries  are  yellowish-white,  and  very 
sweet.  It  makes  an  excellent  companion  for  Black  Hamburgh.  These 
two  Grapes  are  certainly  the  most  satisfactory  for  an  amateur  grower. 

Black  Alicante  may  be  next  recommended.  This  is  a  late  Grape  of 
good  flavour,  and  may  be  had  from  October  to  March. 

Gros  Colman  is  a  large,  black,  late  Grape,  of  a  peculiar  and  distinct 
flavour,  largely  grown  for  the  London  market.  It  requires  more  heat 
than  the  above  varieties  to  properly  ripen. 

Madresfield  Court  and  Muscat  of  Alexandria  are  two  splendid 
Grapes,  but  require  rather  a  higher  temperature  to  ensure  success  than 
the  two  varieties  first  named. 

Lady  DownJs  Seedling  is  a  delicious  late  Grape,  that  keeps  until 
late  in  spring ;  it  has  not,  however,  a  vigorous  constitution. 

Propagation. — The  usual  way  of  increasing  the  Vine  is  by  means 
of  "  eyes,"  taken  in  winter.  The  term  "  eye  "  denotes  a  cut  portion  of 
the  previous  summer's  ripened  wood,  containing  a  bud.  It  is  about 
an  inch  long,  being  cut  close  to  the  bud  on  both  sides.  Each  of  these 
"  eyes  "  is  capable  under  proper  treatment  of  developing  into  a  fruit- 
bearing  Vine.  After  each  bud  or  "  eye "  has  been  cut  as  shown 
in  the  month  of  January  they  are  placed  singly  in  small  pots,  2j 
inches  in  diameter.  These  are  previously  firmly  filled  with  a  mixture 
of  loam  and  leaf-soil,  and  the  "  eye  "  is  then  pressed  into  this,  until 
only  the  bud  is  visible.  Plunge  all  the  pots  in  fibre  or  sand  over  hot- 
water  pipes  in  the  warmest  house  at  disposal,  or  a  small  hot-bed  of 
manure  might  be  made.  Syringe  them  several  times  a  day,  and  shade 
when  the  weather  is  bright.  The  buds  in  a  week  or  two  will  com- 
mence to  burst.  The  soil  hardly  needs  water  for  two  or  three  weeks 
after  the  bud  has  burst  into  growth,  for  comparatively  few  roots  are 
formed ;  until  then  keep  the  tiny  plants  in  a  position  near  the  glass  so 
that  they  may  have  plenty  of  light  and  sun,  and  they  will  soon  increase 
in  size  and  vigour. 

Herbaceous  Grafting,  that  is,  the  uniting  of  two  growing  shoots, 
and  Inarching,  are  two  useful  operations,  well  worth  knowing  how  to 
perform.  If,  for  instance,  two  Vines  are  growing  side  by  side,  one  of 
which  is  worthless,  a  shoot  from  the  one  that  is  of  value  may  be 
grafted  upon  the  worthless  one,  and  the  branches  of  the  latter 
eventually  cut  down.  The  operation  is  very  simple:  Choose  two 
shoots  that  can  easily  be  brought  together.  With  a  sharp  knife  cut  a 
small  piece  from  the  side  of  each,  and  fasten  the  cut  portions  together, 


452 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


so  that  on  one  side  at  least  the  outer  edges  of  both  correspond.  Bind 
them  together  firmly  with  matting,  and  then  cover  this  thinly  with  clay 
to  prevent  the  access  of  air  to  the  parts  to  be  united.  In  a  month  or 
two  the  union  will  probably  be  effected.  The  shoot  of  the  worthless 
one  should  then  be  cut  back  just  above  the  graft,  and  when  the  grafted 
shoot  has  become  thoroughly  established,  it  may  be  severed  from  its 


FIG.  49. — Two  growing  shoots  to  be  grafted, 
lines  show  where  to  cut. 


Dotted  FIG.  50.— The  shoots 

joined  together. 


parent,  and  the  worthless  Vine  completely  cut  away,  except,  of  course, 
that  portion  below  the  graft. 

Inarching,  or  Grafting  by  approach,  consists  in  uniting  two  Vines 
together  by  treating  them  exactly  as  in  herbaceous  grafting.  The  opera- 
tion, however,  is  performed  just  as  the  Vines  commence  to  grow,  and 
the  matured  wood  of  each,  instead  of  the  green,  is  joined  together.  A 
pot  Vine  may  easily  be  inarched  upon  a  permanent  Vine  planted  out,  if 
brought  close  to  the  stem  of  the  latter,  and  attached  to  it  as  above 
explained. 

Bottle  Grafting  is  also  a  simple  and  convenient  method  of  pro- 
pagation. The  shoot  to  be  grafted  is  cut  from  the  Vine  the  previous 
autumn,  and  kept  half  buried  in  soil  in  a  cold-house,  until  the  Vine 
upon  which  it  is  to  be  placed  has  just  commenced  to  grow.  Then  bring 
the  graft  into  the  vinery  for  a  few  days  before  grafting,  so  that  it  may 
be  brought  into  practically  the  same  condition  as  the  stock,  i.e.  the 


CULTIVATION   OF  FRUIT 


453 


permanent  Vine.  Place  one  end  of  the  graft  into  a  bottle  of  water, 
and  attach  the  other  end  to  the  stock  by  the  method  previously  de- 
scribed, finally  covering  over  with  matting  and  clay.  Sufficient  nourish- 
ment is  contained  in  the  rain  water  of  the  bottle  to  sustain  the  graft 
until  it  has  become  united  with  the  stock.  Do  not  remove  the  bottle 
and  covering  until  the  grafted  shoot  has  grown  several  feet  long. 

Vines  are  largely  grown  in  pots  by  nurserymen  to  provide  a  supply 
for  early  forcing,  and  for  replacing  old  Vines  and  planting  new  vineries. 
A  small  grower  cannot 
do  better  than  buy 
good,  strong  pot  Vines 
for  planting  out ;  it  is 
far  more  satisfactory 
than  attempting  to 
raise  them  oneself. 
Great  heat  is  neces- 
sary, both  above  and 
below,  to  have  them 
of  sufficient  size  and 
vigour  in  one  season. 

Insect  Pests.  — 
There  are  several 
troublesome  pests  that 
attack  the  Vine,  and  a 
season  seldom  passes 
without  one  or  more 
making  their  appear- 
ance. Mildew,  a  white 
fungus  that  attacks 
the  leaves  and  also 
the  young  bunches,  is 
one  of  the  most  com- 
mon, and,  if  not 
checked,  quickly  dis- 
figures a  whole  house 
of  Vines.  The  spores 

of  this  fungus  cannot  germinate  in  a  warm,  dry  atmosphere ;  moisture 
is  necessary  for  this.  It  is,  therefore,  evident  that  the  latter  condition 
must  be  avoided,  and  the  vinery  kept  warm  and  dry  for  a  few  days. 
Flowers  of  sulphur  dusted  on  the  berries  and  all  affected  parts  is  an 
excellent  remedy. 

The  red  spider  is  a  minute  insect  that  often  attacks  the  foliage,  and, 
if  left  alone,  would  soon  destroy  it.  It  always  appears  to  attack  the 
lower  surface  of  the  leaves,  which  then  have  a  yellow,  unhealthy  appear- 
ance. A  hot  and  dry  air  favours  this  pest ;  it  is  often  more  prevalent 
near  the  hot-water  pipes.  Endeavour,  therefore,  to  maintain  a  moist 
atmosphere  until  it  is  checked.  Syringe  the  Vines  well  with  clear  water 
daily,  and  occasionally  with  a  solution  of  soft  soap  and  warm  water. 


FIG.  51. — Bottle-grafting  Vine  shoot. 


454  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

Mealy  bug  when  once  established  in  a  vinery  is  difficult  to  eradi- 
cate. The  most  effective  remedy  is  to  throw  a  good  handful  of  sulphur 
upon  a  few  pieces  of  hot  coke  placed  in  a  flower-pot,  and  allow  the  fumes 
to  fill  the  vinery.  This  must  only  be  done  in  midwinter,  when  the 
Vines  are  perfectly  dormant,  and  no  plant  in  a  green  state  must,  of 
course,  be  left  in  the  house,  or  even  in  an  adjoining  one,  for  sulphur 
fumes  are  deadly  to  vegetation.  When  the  Vines  are  started  in  the 
spring,  a  lookout  must  be  kept  for  this  insect,  and  a  short  time  spent 
each  day  in  going  over  the  Vines  with  a  small  brush  and  a  little  paraffin. 
This  will  kill  mealy  bug  instantly,  but  the  buds  of  the  Vine  must  not 
be  touched,  otherwise  they  will  be  injured. 

Vine  Culture  in  the  Open  Air. — Excellent  Grapes  may  be  grown  out 
of  doors,  but  their  growth  must  not  be  neglected.  East  Anglia  is  one  of 
the  parts  of  England  that  has  always  been  noted  for  its  open-air  Vines, 
and  cottagers  sometimes  make  good  sums  of  money  by  the  sale  of  Grapes 
from  their  walls.  The  Vines  generally  cover  the  roof,  as  well  as  the 
front  of  the  cottage,  being  supported  by  a  wooden  framework,  about 
15  inches  from  the  roof.  Vines  delight  in  abundance  of  sunshine, 
and  should  be  planted  against  a  wall  facing  south.  A  border  must 
be  prepared,  but  this  is  quite  easy,  as  it  need  not  be  more  than  2\ 
feet  deep  and  3  feet  in  width.  A  border  of  these  dimensions, 
if  composed  of  good  holding  heavy  soil,  with  a  little  bone  meal  and  a 
liberal  quantity  of  old  mortar  rubble  added,  will  support  Vines  for  many 
years,  provided  the  roots  are  well  mulched  with  short  manure,  and 
assisted  with  liquid  or  artificial  manure  when  the  berries  are  swelling. 

Rich  borders  encourage  a  strong  sappy  growth,  which  does  not 
ripen  properly,  and  invariably  gets  crippled  in  winter.  With  regard  to 
drainage,  if  the  ground  is  naturally  porous,  nothing  more  than  spreading 
6  or  8  inches  of  broken  bricks  or  clinkers  in  the  bottom  will  be 
necessary,  but  if  the  subsoil  is  at  all  retentive,  a  drain-pipe,  3  inches 
in  diameter,  must  be  put  down  in  a  slanting  direction  to  carry  away 
superfluous  water.  Cover  the  drainage  with  turf,  grass  side  down- 
wards, to  prevent  the  soil  from  blocking  it,  and  this  must  be  made  firm 
by  treading  or  ramming.  Obtain  moderately  strong  well-ripened  Vines 
in  small  pots  from  a  good  firm  in  January.  Prune  them  back  to  within 
15  inches  of  their  base,  and  keep  them  dry  and  cool  until  the  end 
of  March,  when  they  may  be  planted.  Turn  the  Vines  out  of  the  pots, 
remove  the  crocks  from  the  base  of  the  balls,  loosen  the  roots  a  little 
with  a  pointed  stick,  and  plant,  covering  the  roots  with  3  inches  of 
soil,  and  ram  it  firmly.  When  planting  against  a  bare  wall,  place  the 
Vine  in  the  centre,  and  train  a  rod  horizontally  to  the  left,  and  another 
to  the  right,  some  2  feet  or  so  from  the  ground — these  to  furnish 
the  main  bearing  rods — to  be  trained  in  an  upright  direction,  3  feet 
apart,  the  second  and  following  years,  until  the  wall  is  furnished.  When 
planting  against  a  dwelling-house,  place  the  Vine  in  the  most  con- 
venient position,  and  train  the  main  rods  over  all  available  spaces, 
3  feet  apart.  The  Vine  must  either  be  nailed  to  the  wall  or  tied 
to  wires. 


CULTIVATION   OF   FRUIT  455 

General  Remarks. — As  a  rule,  February  is  the  best  month  for 
pruning  open-air  Vines,  and  the  main  growths  should  be  pruned  back 
into  the  well-ripened  wood.  When  the  Vines  commence  to  grow,  the 
young  fruit-bearing  shoots  on  each  side  of  the  rods  must  be  thinned  out, 
and  evenly  disposed  18  inches  apart.  If  left  thicker,  sun  and  air 
will  be  excluded,  and  both  foliage  and  fruit  will  be  small  and  inferior. 
The  fruiting  laterals  must  be  pinched  at  two  leaves  from  the  bunch,  re- 
pinched  when  another  leaf  is  made,  and  not  allowed  to  make  a  further 
growth. 

When  the  berries  are  set,  and  are  as  large  as  No.  3  shot,  they 
should  be  thinned  with  Grape  scissors.  Remove  most  of  the  inside 
berries,  as  they  seldom  colour  properly,  and  thin  out  the  rest,  so  that 
when  the  ripe  bunch  is  cut  and  laid  on  a  dish  it  will  not  lose  its  shape. 
When  the  Grapes  are  swelling,  well  water  the  roots  once  a  week  with 
liquid  manure,  the  colour  of  pale  ale,  or  sprinkle  a  little  artificial  manure 
on  the  surface  and  water  it  in.  The  foliage  should  also  be  freely 
syringed  occasionally  on  fine  evenings  to  ward  off  red  spider.  Mulch 
the  border  in  June  with  short  manure  to  keep  it  moist.  Wasps  and 
flies  often  attack  open-air  Grapes  when  ripening,  and  the  best  way  to 
protect  them  is  to  envelop  the  bunches  in  muslin  bags.  Wasps  may 
also  be  trapped  by  half  filling  soda-water  bottles  with  sugar  and  beer, 
and  hanging  them  on  the  Vines.  Each  year  when  the  Vines  are  pruned, 
a  little  of  the  old  soil  should  be  removed  from  the  border,  and  replaced 
with  fresh  sweet  compost. 

The  best  Grapes  for  open-air  culture  are — Reine  Olga,  Cambridge 
Botanic  Gardens,  a  very  sweet  purple  Grape;  Miller's  Burgundy, 
Old  White  Sweet  Water,  Royal  Muscadine,  and  Chasselas  Vibert, 
a  delicious  Grape.  The  Vine,  apart  from  its  fruits,  is  valuable  for 
its  picturesque  growth.  Many  a  sunny  corner  may  be  well  clothed  with 
its  beautiful  foliage  and  in  the  autumn  sweet  fruit  clusters,  and  Vines 
are  as  appropriate  as  any  wall  plant  for  the  old-world  English  homes 
now  built  in  many  parts.  A  cottage  or  English  home  of  the  past  was 
seldom  without  its  clustering  Vine. 

The  Strawberry. — This  is  one  of  the  most  delicious  of  hardy 
fruits,  and  gives  its  precious  harvest  in  June  and  July.  The  Strawberry 
should  be  cultivated  by  those  with  merely  a  small  plot  of  ground;  it 
needs  neither  pruning  nor  training  and  quickly  fruits.  This  cannot 
be  written  of  Apple,  Pear,  Plum,  &c.,  that  never  reach  full  fruit- 
bearing  condition  until  several  years  have  elapsed. 

Soil  and  Situation. — In  ordinary  garden  soil  the  Strawberry  suc- 
ceeds ;  it  delights,  however,  in  a  deep  loam,  well  enriched  with  manure. 
As  in  the  case  of  most  other  fruit-bearing  plants,  it  does  not  thrive  so 
well  upon  light,  gravelly  land.  The  ground  upon  which  it  is  intended 
to  make  a  plantation  of  Strawberries  should,  towards  the  end  of  July, 
be  dug  over  deeply,  at  the  same  time  placing  a  layer  of  manure  in 
the  bottom  of  each  trench  as  the  work  proceeds.  This  will  prove 
especially  valuable  to  the  roots  if  the  soil  be  of  a  light  nature.  Straw- 
berries grow  well  in  almost  any  position  in  the  garden ;  they  may  be 


456 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


planted  upon  open  ground  fully  exposed,  or  upon  borders  facing  north, 
south,  or  west.  Planted  on  a  north  border  late  varieties  are  very 
useful,  for  they  provide  a  supply  of  fruit  for  a  considerable  time  after 
the  general  crop  has  been  gathered.  Upon  a  south  border,  especially 
with  a  wall  behind,  ripe  fruit  may  be  gathered  from  the  early  varieties 
by  the  first  week  in  June,  or  even  before,  much  depending  upon  the 
weather. 

Planting. — August  is  the  best  month  to  plant  the  Strawberry; 
early  planting  is  one  of  the  chief  points  in  its  culture.  The  plants  are 
then  able  to  get  well  established  in  their  new  quarters  before  the  winter, 
and  so  pass  safely  through  the  cold,  inclement  weather;  whereas  if 
planting  is  deferred,  say,  until  late  in  September,  winter  is  at  hand 
before  the  roots  have  penetrated  into  the  fresh  soil.  When  brighter 

and  longer  days  appear 
they  are  not  in  a  fit 
condition  to  take  ad- 
vantage of  the  change. 
Consequently  they  are 
late  in  commencing  to 
grow,  and  when  the 
flower  spikes  do  appear 
they  are  so  weak  and 
small  that  one  can 
safely  predict  that  the 
first  season's  crop  will 
be  useless.  Such  is 
the  effect  of  planting 
too  late. 

After  a  Strawberry 
plant  has  borne  fruit 
for  three,  or,  upon 
good  land,  for  four 
seasons,  a  fresh  plan- 
tation must  be  made,  as  from  this  time  deterioration  sets  in.  In  large 
gardens  Strawberries  are  frequently  not  kept  more  than  two  years.  Place 
the  Strawberries  1 2  inches  from  each  other,  in  rows  2  feet  apart.  Choose, 
if  possible,  a  dull  day  for  planting,  and  when  the  ground  is  moist ;  the 
plants  then  get  a  good  root-hold  more  quickly  than  when  the  soil  is  hard 
and  dry.  If  the  summer  has  been  very  hot,  and  no  rain  has  fallen  for 
some  time,  well  water  the  ground  before  and  after  planting,  and  also  for 
a  few  weeks  until  the  plants  have  made  fresh  roots.  Of  course,  if  rain 
falls,  this  will  be  unnecessary.  Make  sure  that  the  Strawberry  plants 
are  watered  before  being  placed  in  the  ground.  When  water  is  given 
after  planting  in  a  dry  soil  it  will  run  down  by  the  side  of  the  hard  dry 
ball,  and  enter  the  more  easily  penetrated  ground  immediately  around, 
thus  leaving  the  plant  as  dry  as  before.  Much  of  the  after  success  of 
the  Strawberry  depends  upon  the  way  in  which  it  is  placed  in  the  soil. 
The  roots  should  be  just  covered  and  quite  firm  ;  the  crown  (i.e.  the 


FIG.  52. — Showing  how  to  plant  a  Strawberry. 
Crown  just  above  surface  of  soil. 


\ 


CULTIVATION    OF   FRUIT  457 

point  from  where  the  young  leaves  arise)  must,  however,  be  quite 
free  and  exposed.  If  this  were  covered  with  soil,  and  the  latter 
became  wet,  the  leaves  would  probably  decay  and  death  result.  If, 
on  the  other  hand,  the  crown  were  too  far  out  of  the  ground,  the 
plant  would  become  so  loose,  by  being  shaken  by  the  wind,  that  it 
would  never  obtain  a  proper  hold  of  the  soil.  First  make  a  hole  with 
a  trowel,  at  the  spot  already  marked  out,  sufficiently  large  to  comfort- 
ably receive  the  roots  when  spread  out  as  they  should  be ;  then  insert 
the  plant,  cover  with  soil,  and  with  the  foot  tread  firmly  all  round, 
taking  care  not  to  touch  the  plant  itself. 

After  Treatment. — After  planting  place  a  mulch  of  well-decayed 
manure  around  the  Strawberry  plants.  If  the  autumn  is  hot  and  dry 
the  manure  will  keep  the  ground  moist  and  cool,  and  the  formation  of 
new  roots  will  be  greatly  assisted.  The  manurial  properties  will  also 
be  washed  down  into  the  soil  by  rain.  On  the  first  appearance  of 
weeds  in  spring  at  once  run  the  hoe  between  the  plants.  In  the 
month  of  May  a  covering  of  clean  straw  should  be  placed  between  and 
around  the  plants  to  keep  the  fruit  clean  and  uninjured.  Strawberry 
fruits  that  are  allowed  to  remain  in  contact  with  the  surface  of  the 
ground  become  splashed  with  soil  during  rain,  and  are  then  almost 
worthless.  The  straw  also  serves  to  protect  the  flowers  from  slight 
frost ;  it  is  a  simple  matter  to  shake  it  out  a  little  with  a  fork  at  night 
so  as  to  cover  them  over.  If  there  are  signs  of  sharp  frost  when  the 
flowers  are  open  improvise  some  covering  without  delay,  otherwise  the 
crop  of  fruit  will  be  partially  destroyed.  Straw,  old  mats,  or  canvas 
are  excellent.  Unless  it  be  desired  to  increase  the  stock  of  Straw- 
berries, the  side  shoots,  or  runners  as  they  are  termed,  should  be  cut 
off  as  soon  as  they  appear.  The  swelling  fruits  will  be  greatly  helped 
by  the  mulch  that  was  spread  over  the  ground  the  previous  autumn, 
providing  sufficient  rain  falls  to  wash  its  manurial  properties  to  the 
roots.  If  not,  water  must  be  applied  by  hand.  Do  not  gather  the 
fruit  when  wet,  especially  when  it  is  to  travel  some  distance.  After 
all  the  fruits  have  been  gathered  remove  all  decayed  leaves  from 
around  the  plants,  cut  away  any  runners  that  remain,  and  lightly  fork 
the  soil  in  between  the  rows,  after  having  first  removed  the  straw. 

Propagation. — The  way  to  increase  the  Strawberry  is  by  runners. 
A  "runner"  is  easily  recognised.  Examine  a  vigorous  plant  during 
the  summer  ;  it  will  be  noticed  that  several  long,  thin,  stalks  we 
may  call  them,  proceed  from  it  at  various  points,  and  that  at  the 
end  of  each  of  these  there  is  a  tiny  plant.  This  is  a  runner,  and 
propagation  is  effected  by  these  (" layering"  the  operation  is  called). 
One  must  so  treat  these  small  plants  as  to  induce  them  to  form  roots. 
They  are  then  severed  from  the  parent  plant.  There  are  several 
ways  of  accomplishing  this ;  the  one  most  strongly  recommended  is 
that  of  layering  the  runners  into  small  pots  which  should  be  about 
2  inches  in  diameter,  having  a  small  piece  of  turf  at  their  base  for 
drainage,  fill  up  with  soil,  from  which  the  coarser  particles  have  been 
sifted,  then  plunge  them  into  the  ground  quite  close  to  the  parent 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

plant.  The  object  of  placing  the  small  pots  in  the  ground  is  to  pre- 
vent the  soil  from  becoming  dry,  as  would  quickly  occur  were  the  sun 
able  to  reach  them.  The  runner  (the  tiny  plant  at  the  end  of  the 
long  stalk)  is  then  fixed  into  the  soil  of  the  small  pot.  This  is  some- 
times effected  by  means  of  a  piece  of  wire  bent  f|  shaped,  or  a  hairpin, 
but  more  generally  by  wooden  pegs  or  a  stone  laid  on  the  stalk.  Give 
them  water  whenever  required — this  may  be  even  twice  a  day  in  bright 
weather — and  in  a  week  or  so  roots  will  be  emitted,  and  quickly  take 
possession  of  the  soil  in  the  pot.  The  long  stalk  may  then  be  cut, 
thus  severing  all  connection  with  the  parent  plant ;  for  the  runners  are 
now  established  on  their  own  roots,  and  well  able  to  take  care  of 
themselves.  They  are  now  ready,  either  for  planting  out  in  the 
garden,  as  already  described,  or  they  may  be  again  placed  in  larger 


FIG.  53* — Strawberry  plant  with  runners,  suitable  for  layering. 

pots  and  grown  for  forcing.     The  latter  half  of  June  is  the  best  time  to 
insert  the  layers  in  the  small  pots. 

Cultivation  in  Pots. — Strawberries  are  cultivated  in  pots,  so  that 
they  may  be  taken  into  a  glasshouse  in  spring,  for  the  purpose  of 
compelling  them  to  produce  fruit  earlier  than  those  grown  in  the  open 
garden.  Such  a  method  is  known  as  forcing,  and  the  fruits  thus  pro- 
duced, as  forced  Strawberries.  Strawberry-forcing  is  most  interesting 
work,  and  should  be  attempted  by  all  who  wish  to  prolong  the  season 
of  this  delicious  fruit.  It  is  not  necessary  to  have  a  large  number  of 
plants,  and  much  fire  heat  is  unnecessary,  unless  it  is  desired  to  have 
fruits  very  early ;  it  is  not,  however,  advisable  for  the  small  grower  to 
attempt  to  force  Strawberries  very  early,  for  a  certain  proportion  of 
the  plants  become  blind  (i.e.  they  bear  small,  useless  flowers,  or  per- 
haps none  at  all),  and  the  flavour  of  the  fruits  in  the  dull  weather  of 
early  spring  is  by  no  means  first-rate.  Delicious  fruits  may,  however, 
be  had  in  the  month  of  April  by  gentle  forcing.  We  will  now  go 
back  to  where  the  runner  was  left.  It  will  be  remembered  that  this 
was  fixed  into  a  small  pot  of  soil  and  carefully  watered.  About  ten  days 


CULTIVATION   OF   FRUIT 


459 


after  having  severed  the  rooted  runners  from  the  parent  plants,  in  order 
to  have  plants  that  can  be  forced  to  bear  fruit  by  the  following  April, 
transfer  the  former  to  larger  pots — those  6  inches  in  diameter  are  the 
most  suitable.  If  the  runners  were  layered  towards  the  end  of  June,  by 
the  first  week  of  August  they  will  be  sufficiently  well  rooted  to  remove. 
The  nature  of  the  soil  in  which  they  are  now  potted  is  of  great  im- 
portance, for  it  has  to  support  them  for  about  nine  months.  Nothing 
is  better  than  rough,  turfy  soil,  with  which  a  little  guano,  or  manure 
from  an  old-mushroom  bed,  and  some  small  pieces  of  lime  or  brick 
rubble  are  well  mixed.  The  latter  help  to  keep  the  soil  sweet  and 
wholesome,  while  the  guano  stimulates  and  supports  the  plants.  Place 


FIG.  54. — Showing  the  runners  when  layered  into  small  pots. 

several  crocks  over  the  base  of  each  6-inch  pot  for  drainage,  so  that 
the  water  given  to  the  plant  may  pass  away  freely.  Unless  proper 
drainage  is  provided,  satisfactory  results  cannot  be  obtained.  Over 
the  crocks  place  a  few  rough  pieces  of  turf  to  prevent  the  smaller 
particles  of  soil  from  falling  into  them,  and  thus  stopping  free  drainage. 
Then  fill  in  as  much  of  the  prepared  soil  as  will  raise  the  uppermost 
roots  of  the  runner  within  about  an  inch  and  a  half  of  the  rim  of  the 
6-inch  pot  and  place  the  runner  upon  it.  Holding  the  small  plant 
firmly  with  the  left  hand,  with  the  right  hand  fill  the  surrounding 
space  between  it  and  the  side  of  the  pot  with  the  prepared  compost. 
Make  this  quite  firm  with  a  wooden  rammer.  The  latter  should  be 
9  or  10  inches  long,  an  inch  or  so  in  diameter,  and  made  round; 
the  base,  however,  is  quite  flat.  As  soon  as  the  space  around  the 
small  plant  has  been  filled  in,  add  sufficient  soil,  made  firm,  to  fill  the 


460 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


pot  to  within  about  three-quarters  of  an  inch  of  its  rim.  This  margin 
is  necessary  to  receive  and  hold  water  when  this  is  applied.  On 
removing  the  runners  from  the  small  pots,  take  care  that  the  roots 
are  not  broken  or  bruised.  When  all  the  plants  have  been  thus  placed 
in  6-inch  pots,  stand  them  for  a  few  days  in  partial  shade,  syringing 
them  several  times  daily,  and  give  water  whenever  required.  In  a 
week's  time  place  them  upon  an  open  piece  of  hard  ground — the 
garden  walk  is  an  excellent  position — so  that  they  may  have  all  the  sun 
possible.  Allow  each  plant  plenty  of  room,  by  placing  them  in  rows, 
9  or  10  inches  apart,  and  let  each  one  be  3  or  4  inches  from  its 
neighbour.  An  abundance  of  water  is  required  during  the  hot  weather, 
when  the  plants  are  well  rooted,  and  they  must  not  be  allowed  to  suffer 

from  dryness,  or  bad  results  will 
follow.  It  is  preferable  to  water 
them  early  in  the  morning  or  even- 
ing, as  then  the  water  thoroughly 
moistens  the  soil.  It  is  probable, 
however,  that  water  will  be  again 
required  before  the  day  is  over. 
Syringe  the  plants  every  evening, 
so  as  to  encourage  growth.  Cut 
off  all  runners  that  appear,  and 


Prepared 
compost. 


Turf. 


remove  weeds  when  seen.     When 
cold   weather  arrives,  some  pro- 
tection must  be  afforded,  or  the 
roots  might  suffer,  and  the  pots 
be  broken.     A  simple  method  of 
preventing  this  is  as  follows  :  First 
place  the  plants  closely  together 
in  a  straight  line.     Then  spread 
a  layer  of  bracken  or  ashes  (the 
Drainage,  former  is  preferable,  if  it  can  be 
obtained)    by    the    pots ;     place 
FIG.  55. — Way  to  place  the  runners,       another  row  of  plants  next  to  the 
when  rooted,  into  a  larger  pot.  bracken,    so    that    the    latter    is 

pressed  quite  closely  between  the 

two  rows  of  plants.  Continue  this — a  layer  of  bracken,  and  a  row  of 
plants  alternately — until  all  are  protected.  The  first  row  that  was  put 
down  will  also  need  covering  on  the  outside  until  about  the  middle  of 
February,  when  no  further  attention  is  required.  If  ripe  Strawberries 
are  desired  in  April,  the  number  of  plants  required  must  be  placed 
under  cover  early  in  February. 

Forcing. — A  cold  frame  is  the  best  position  for  three  or  four  weeks. 
If  a  mild  hot-bed  of  leaves  can  be  prepared  in  which  to  plunge  the 
plants,  so  much  the  better,  for  this  promotes  root  action.  Under  this 
treatment,  the  flower  spikes  also  appear  more  quickly.  In  about  eight 
weeks  from  placing  the  plants  in  the  cold  frame  ripe  fruit  may  be 
expected,  if  a  little  fire  heat  be  afterwards  available.  At  the  close 


CULTIVATION    OF   FRUIT  461 

of  three  weeks  or  so,  when  the  flower  spikes  commence  to  push  forth, 
the  plants  must  be  placed  near  to  the  roof  (that  is  to  say,  within  12  or 
1 8  inches)  of  whatever  structure  is  at  hand.  If  none  other  than  a  cold 
frame  is  available,  this  will  answer  the  purpose  well,  although  the  fruits 
will  naturally  not  be  ripe  as  soon  as  in  a  heated  glasshouse.  When 
the  plants  are  first  placed  in  the  cold  pit,  if  it  is  intended  to  remove 
them  in  a  few  weeks'  time,  they  may  be  plunged  close  together.  If, 
however,  they  are  to  remain  there  to  fruit,  a  distance  of  several  inches 
between  each  plant  must  be  allowed.  A  mild  hot-bed  is  of  immense 
advantage  for  starting  early  Strawberries,  for  by  first  gently  exciting  the 
roots  into  action  the  plant  is  made  to  produce  better  foliage  and 
stronger  flower  spikes.  Syringe  the  plants  daily  once  or  more,  accord- 
ing to  the  weather,  giving  a  little  air  in  the  morning;  close  the  pit 
early  in  the  afternoon,  and  syringe  the  plants  at  the  same  time.  When 
the  flowers  begin  to  open,  keep  the  atmosphere  of  the  house  dry,  and 
admit  plenty  of  air ;  such  conditions  facilitate  the  formation  of  the 
embryo  fruits,  and  must  be  maintained  until  these  are  properly  formed. 
When  six  or  seven  fruits  "  set "  upon  each  plant,  the  pit  or  house 
should  again  be  kept  warm  and  moist,  to  encourage  the  former  to 
grow  as  quickly  as  possible.  Close  the  house  quite  early  in  the  after- 
noon, to  raise  the  temperature,  syringing  the  plants  at  the  same  time  to 
create  a  moist,  genial  atmosphere.  After  developing  for  a  week  or 
more,  the  fruits  gradually  become  white,  and  soon  afterwards  change 
to  the  normal  red  colour.  Discontinue  syringing  when  the  red  colour 
is  noticeable,  for  the  fruits  then  are  softening,  and  if  wetted,  will 
probably  decay.  Always  endeavour  to  assist  the  fruits  after  they  are 
"  set/3  by  giving  stimulants  to  the  plants  in  some  form  or  other.  A 
little  guano  may  be  sprinkled  upon  the  surface  of  the  soil  and  the 
latter  disturbed  with  a  small  pointed  stick  (this  allows  the  guano  to 
enter  the  soil  more  easily),  or  weak  liquid  manure  may  be  given  about 
twice  a  week.  To  ensure  well-flavoured  fruits,  more  air  and  a  dry 
atmosphere  are  essential  when  the  ripening  stage  approaches,  foretold 
by  the  change  in  colour.  These  various  changes  in  the  conditions  of 
the  house  where  Strawberries  are  grown  must  not,  of  course,  be 
effected  suddenly.  The  air  must  be  gradually  increased  daily,  as  the 
flowers  open,  until  by  the  time  all  have  expanded,  the  house  is  quite 
cool.  The  same  method  should  be  adopted  when  the  fruits  commence 
to  change  colour. 

Varieties  for  Outdoor  Culture. — Many  varieties   are   in   cultiva- 
tion ;  some  good,  others  indifferent. 

The  following  are  six  of  the  best  for  a  small  garden  : 

Royal  Sovereign  :  a  large,  handsome,  bright  scarlet  fruit,  of  good 

flavour.     The  plant  bears  well  and  ripens  early. 
La  Grosse  Sucrte :  this  is  large,  dark  red,  of  fine  flavour,  good 

constitution,  and  early.     This  variety  and  Royal  Sovereign 

are  the  kinds  for  small  growers. 
The  Bedford :   a  mid-season  variety  of  robust  habit,  very  free 

bearing,  and  roundish  fruits  of  good  flavour. 


462  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

Laxtoris  Latest:  a  fine  late  Strawberry  of  large  size  and  good 

flavour. 
Countess:  a  handsome,  conical-shaped,  deep  crimson  fruit,  of 

first-rate  flavour,  and  good  constitution. 

Waterloo:  this  is  a  valuable  variety,  and  is  almost  the  last  to 
ripen.     The  fruits  are  large,  very  dark  red  in  colour  (some 
are  almost  black,  when  fully  ripe),  and  of  a  fine  flavour. 
Other  Good  Varieties.— 

Latest  of  All:  a  very  late  Strawberry  of  exquisite  flavour. 
Aromatic :  a  fine  large  fruit  with  an  aromatic  flavour.    The  plant 

bears  abundantly,  and  is  well  worth  growing. 
Bicton  Pine  is  a  white-fruited  variety  of  distinct  flavour,  and  bears 

well. 

James  Veitch :  large,  handsome  fruit,  red,  of  good  flavour. 
President:   handsome,   bright   red    fruit,   well   flavoured,    good 

bearer. 

Varieties  for  Pot  Culture.—  The  best  for  forcing  are  undoubtedly 
Royal  Sovereign  and  La  Grosse  Sucree.  The  former  is  the  one  for 
a  very  early  supply.  James  Veitch  and  Sir  Charles  Napier  (a  pale 
scarlet  fruit  of  sharp  flavour)  also  force  well,  and  may  be  tried  in 
addition  to  the  first  two  named. 

The  Gooseberry. — The  Gooseberry  is  one  of  the  most  service- 
able of  our  hardy  fruits,  especially  to  the  amateur,  for  the  bushes 
occupy  little  space,  and  the  fruit  has  the  advantage  of  being  ready  for 
use  in  a  green  state  as  well  as  when  ripe. 

Soil  and  Situation. — If  very  large  Gooseberries,  regardless  of 
flavour,  are  desired,  a  rich,  moist  soil  and  partial  shade  from  the  sun 
are  necessary. 

Unless  required  for  exhibition,  however,  it  is  better  to  obtain 
medium-sized,  well-favoured  fruits ;  a  soil  that  is  drier  and  not  so 
rich,  and  a  situation  exposed  to  the  sun,  are  then  desirable.  The 
bushes  themselves  will  afford  sufficient  shade  to  each  other.  It  is 
more  convenient  when  planting  Gooseberry  bushes  to  group  them 
together  upon  one  piece  of  ground,  for  when  the  fruits  are  ripe  black- 
birds, &c.,  are  troublesome,  making  it  necessary  to  cover  the  bushes 
with  netting.  Such  protection  is  obviously  more  easily  given  when 
the  bushes  are  together  than  when  dotted  about  here  and  there. 
The  roots  are  then  also  in  less  danger  of  suffering  from  the  spade  or 
fork,  as  might  easily  happen  were  the  ground  immediately  around 
them  cropped  with  vegetables.  Where,  however,  land  cannot  be 
devoted  solely  to  a  plantation  of  Gooseberries  they  may  be  planted  by 
the  side  of  the  garden  walk  or  between  Apples  and  Pears.  It  should 
be  remembered  that  their  roots  are  close  to  the  surface  of  the  ground, 
and  if  this  were  dug  over  with  a  spade  some  of  the  former  would  be 
destroyed.  Although  usually  planted  upon  open  ground,  Gooseberry 
bushes  may,  in  order  to  prolong  their  season,  be  trained  against  a 
north  wall  or  upon  an  espalier  in  a  cool  position.  Unless  a  few  are 
required  very  early  it  is  unwise  to  plant  them  against  a  wall  facing 


CULTIVATION   OF   FRUIT  463 

south.  This  position  is  too  hot.  This  refers  more  especially  to  the 
southern  part  of  England.  In  the  northern  and  midland  counties  wall 
protection  would  be  beneficial. 

Planting  should  be  performed  during  October  and  November. 
Several  weeks  before  planting  prepare  the  ground  by  digging,  and 
mix  with  it  some  manure  at  the  same  time.  Be  sure  that  the  hole 
to  receive  the  Gooseberry  bush  is  sufficiently  large  for  the  roots  when 
spread  out,  and  that  it  is  slightly  higher  in  the  centre  than  at  the  sides. 
After  the  roots  have  been  fully  extended  and  carefully  covered  over, 
make  the  soil  quite  firm  by  treading.  Bush  plants,  in  the  open,  are 
planted  in  rows  6  feet  apart,  with  a  distance  of  about  5  feet  between 
each  plant  in  the  row.  The  character  of  each  variety  should  be  con- 
sidered when  making  a  plantation ;  for  instance,  early  and  late  sorts 
must  not  be  placed  side  by  side,  nor  strong  growing  varieties  close  to 

1W •-.  -4V-.'-  f6-^ ->p 


PU.nl ?---* * P 

FIG.  56. — Distance  to  plant  Gooseberry  bushes. 

weak  ones.  In  the  former  case  the  work  of  netting  is  facilitated  (the 
same  nets  will  do  for  both  if  these  are  kept  separate);  and  in  the 
latter  the  vigorous  bushes  do  not  overcrowd  the  others,  as  would  occur 
were  both  planted  indiscriminately. 

Propagation, — The  Gooseberry  is  easily  increased;  the  best 
method  being  that  of  taking  cuttings,  which  are  formed  of  a  portion 
of  the  growth  made  during  the  previous  summer.  They  are  taken 
from  the  bush  in  the  autumn,  just  as  the  leaves  fall,  and  are  cut 
to  about  12  or  15  inches  in  length.  Endeavour  to  select 
straight,  firm,  and  short-jointed  wood.  All  the  buds  except  those 
within  about  5  inches  of  the  top  of  the  cutting  must  be  removed. 
Shoots  will  eventually  develop  from  these  buds  to  form  the  primary 
branches  of  the  bush.  The  opposite  end  of  the  cutting— i.e.  where 
the  buds  were  cut  out — is  inserted  in  the  ground,  5  inches  or  6 
inches  deep.  First,  take  the  shoot  from  the  bush,  and  prepare  it 
afterwards.  It  is  not  always  possible  to  obtain  the  cuttings  of  one 
particular  length,  but  whether  the  latter  are  rather  longer  or  shorter 
than  the  above  dimensions  does  not  signify.  The  object  in  view  is  to 
have  a  firm  shoot — the  buds  of  which  have  been  removed  to  within 
about  5  inches  of  its  apex — sufficiently  long  to  be  placed  6  inches 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


464 

in  the  soil,  and  then  leave  a  stem  8  inches  or  10  inches  above 
ground.  Thoroughly  eradicate  the  buds  from  the  lower  portion  of  the 
stem,  or  growths  will  eventually  push  from  them  and  prove  annoying. 

Such  growths  are  known  as 
suckers,  and,  if  allowed  to 
grow,  soon  crowd  into  and  in- 
terfere with  the  development  of 
the  branches  proper,  besides 
having  an  untidy  appearance 
and  preventing  a  free  use  of 
the  hoe  and  the  application  of 
manure.  The  more  one  cuts 
them  back  the  stronger  they 
reappear.  The  only  way  to 
destroy  them  is  to  get  down  to 
the  buds,  whence  they  originate, 
and  cut  them  completely  out. 
This,  however,  cannot  be  done 
without  injury  to  the  roots ;  it 
is  therefore  wise  to  make  sure 
that  the  bud  is  properly  re- 
moved in  the  first  place.  After 
them  out  in  rows  on  a  shady 


FIG.  57. — Young  Gooseberry  bush,  showing 
first  branches. 

Cross  lines  indicate  where  to  cut  back  to  at 
winter  pruning. 


having  prepared  the  cuttings   plant 

border.  Make  the  rows  1 2  inches  apart,  and  let  the  cuttings  be  about 
6  inches  from  each  other  in  the  rows.  This  work  should  be  done  as 
soon  as  the  cuttings  are 
ready  —  October  or  early 
November.  The  following 
autumn  transplant  them  into 
rows  1 8  inches  apart,  with  a 
distance  of  12  inches  be- 
tween each.  After  another 
year  has  passed  they  may 
be  placed  in  their  permanent 
quarters  in  the  garden. 

Forming  and  Training 
the  Bush.  —  Suppose  that 
the  prepared  cutting  has 
passed  safely  through  the 
winter,  and  that  the  buds 
have  pushed  into  growth. 
Four  or  five  buds  may  have 
been  left  at  the  apex  of  the 
cutting;  it  is  therefore  safe 
to  assume  that  three  of  them 

have  commenced  to  grow.  If  such  be  not  the  case  the  cutting  is  not 
worth  keeping.  The  object  of  removing  the  lower  buds  in  preparing  the 
cutting,  besides  guarding  against  suckers,  was  to  obtain  a  clear  stem  of 


FIG.  58. — Gooseberry  bush,  showing  six  branches 
at  end  of  second  year's  growth. 


CULTIVATION   OF   FRUIT 


465 


several  inches  between  the  ground  and  the  lowest  branches  of  the 
bush.  Allow  the  shoots  that  will  develop  from  three  of  the  buds 
upon  the  upper  end  of  the  cutting  to  grow  freely  throughout  the 
summer,  and  also  laterals  that  make  their  appearance.  In  early  winter 
prune  the  three  principal  shoots  back  to  about  6  inches  in  length, 
and  cut  all  the  laterals  to  within  half  an  inch  of  the  base.  The  follow- 
ing spring  two  shoots  should  be  allowed  to  develop  from  the  three 
primary  branches  that  were  shortened  in  winter.  At  the  close  of  the 
second  summer  there  will  thus  be  six  branches.  Next  winter  shorten 
these  also  to  within  about  10  inches  of  their  bases.  In  spring  encourage 
two  more  shoots  from  each  of  the  six  branches,  thus  making  twelve  in 
all.  The  Gooseberry  bush  will  then  have  a  good  foundation.  When 
afterwards  other  branches  are  allowed,  if  there  is  room  for  them,  be 
careful  that  they  do  not  originate  from  buds  pointing  downwards  or 
inwards,  or  they  will  defeat  the  object  of  the  cultivator,  which  should 
be  to  keep  the  branches  thinly  disposed  so  as  to  admit  all  sun  and  air 
possible. 

Summer  Treatment. — During  the  summer  months,  lateral  growths 
will  push  from  the  branches,  in  addition  to  the  natural  fruit  spurs 


FIG.  59. — Gooseberry  shoot  in  fruit  (previous  summer's  wood,  showing 
advantage  of  young  growth). 

that  form  upon  them.  The  strongest  of  these  should  be  pinched  back 
to  five  or  six  leaves.  The  object  of  thus  pinching  the  shoots  in  summer 
time  is  to  prevent  overcrowding  and  to  encourage  the  formation  of 
fruit  buds  at  the  base  of  the  shoots  so  pruned.  This  is  better  than 
allowing  the  latter  to  go  unchecked  until  the  winter,  and  then  to 
shorten  them  down.  The  Gooseberry  bears  fruit  remarkably  well 
upon  wood  of  the  previous  year's  growth,  as  well  as  upon  spurs  that 
form  on  the  older  wood.  This  fact  should  not  be  forgotten,  and 
wherever  there  is  room  to  introduce  a  shoot,  instead  of  pinching 
as  above  described,  allow  it  to  develop,  and  simply  shorten  it 
slightly  in  winter.  The  following  year  it  may  be  expected  to  bear 
fruit. 

Keep  the  surface  of  the  ground  well  hoed  throughout  the  summer 

2  G 


466 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


months ;  it  will  then  be  kept  free  from  weeds  and  the  soil  will  not  lose 
so  much  of  its  moisture  as  if  the  ground  were  allowed  to  become  hard. 
When  the  fruits  are  swelling,  they  are  greatly  assisted  by  well  watering 
the  ground,  and  especially  so  if  a  covering  of  manure  is  first  put  down. 

Winter  Treatment, — At  the  annual  early  winter  pruning  the  lead- 
ing branches  should  be  left  about  eight  or  nine  inches  long,  until  the 
bush  has  reached  the  desired  height  and  size.  Then  cut  them  back 
every  year  to  two  buds.  When  a  branch  becomes  old,  and  bears  little 
fruit,  cut  it  away,  so  that  a  younger  one  may  grow  up  to  take  its  place  ; 
a  far  better  crop  of  fruit  will  thus  be  obtained.  In  fact,  the  cultivator 
should  endeavour  to  introduce  as  much  young  wood  as  possible,  never 
hesitating  to  remove  an  old  or  weakly  branch.  In  the  south  of  England, 
more  branches  are  usually  allowed  to  form  in  the  centre  of  the  bush 
than  is  the  case  farther  north,  for  if  they  were  kept  too  thin  the  fruits 
would  suffer  from  the  effects  of  the  sun,  naturally  more  powerful  in  the 
former  than  in  the  latter  districts. 

Espaliers. — Espalier-trained  Gooseberries  are  excellent,  and  usually 
bear  well.  As  is  the  case  with  all  fruit  trees  thus  trained,  they  occupy 


Single.  Double. 

FIG.  60. — Cordon  Gooseberries. 


little  space,  and  are  therefore  useful  in  small  gardens.  A  trellis-work 
to  train  them  against  can  easily  be  constructed ;  a  few  upright  wooden 
or  .ron  posts,  placed  at  intervals  in  the  ground,  and  wires,  12  inches 
apart,  fixed  between  them,  will  suffice.  Cordon  Gooseberries  may  either 
be  trained  with  single,  double,  or  treble  stems;  each  of  the  latter 


CULTIVATION   OF   FRUIT  467 

should  be  6  inches  or  8  inches  apart,  so  that  if  the  plants  have  two  or 
three  stems,  they  naturally  must  be  placed  wider  apart.  The  manage- 
ment of  espalier  Gooseberries  is  simple  :  allow  the  leading  shoots  to 
grow  throughout  the  summer,  and  shorten  them  back  slightly  every 
winter,  until  the  top  of  the  trellis  is  reached.  In  the  month  of  June, 
pinch  all  unduly  vigorous  side  shoots  back  to  six  leaves,  and  in  winter 
shorten  them  to  within  about  half  an  inch  of  the  older  wood. 

Fan-trained  Gooseberry  trees  are  also  used  for  planting  against 
espaliers.  By  this  method  a  quantity  of  young  wood  may  be  laid  in 
every  year  upon  which  fruit  is  freely  produced.  The  older  shoots 
must,  of  course,  be  cut  away  to  make  room  for  this.  In  pruning  fan- 
trained  trees  all  that  is  necessary  is  to  regulate  the  branches  every 
autumn  to  several  inches  apart,  retaining  the  young  shoots  in  prefer- 
ence to  older  ones.  In  summer  endeavour  to  encourage  a  shoot  from 
the  base  of  the  previous  year's  wood,  so  that  it  may  take  the  place  of 
the  latter.  Pinch  hard  back  all  the  other  shoots  upon  the  same  branch, 
so  that  the  one  at  the  base  may  grow  freely.  For  suitable  varieties  see 
table  on  p.  611. 

Currants. — There  are  three  kinds  of  Currants  under  cultivation 
for  their  fruits,  viz. :  the  Black,  Red,  and  White.  The  Black  and  the 
Red  both  grow  wild  in  this  country,  and  the  White  is  a  variety  of  the 
Red  one. 

Red  and  White  Currants. — As  in  the  case  of  the  Gooseberry, 
Currants  may  be  propagated  from  seed  if  there  is  a  special  reason 
for  doing  so,  such  as  the  raising  of  a  new  variety,  but  the  most  satis- 
factory, convenient,  and  generally  practised  method  is  by  cuttings, 
which  are  made  in  exactly  the  same  way  as  advised  for  the  Goose- 
berry. Firm,  short-jointed  shoots,  from  12  to  15  inches  long, 
are  taken  off,  and  all  the  buds  removed,  except  four  or  five  near  to 
the  apex,  so  that  no  suckers  can  appear  afterwards.  In  preparing  the 
shoot,  cut  it  straight  across,  under  a  joint,  for  it  is  only  here  that  roots 
are  formed.  If  the  cut  were  made,  say,  midway  between  the  two 
joints,  the  end  would  die  back  to  the  first  joint  above,  and  probably 
would  not  form  roots  at  all.  Insert  the  cuttings  on  a  shady  border 
several  inches  from  each  other,  in  rows  12  inches  apart.  The 
principal  branches  of  the  Currant  bush  may  be  obtained  in  the  same 
way  as  described  for  the  Gooseberry,  i.e.  by  shortening  each  of  the 
primary  shoots,  so  as  to  obtain  two  from  them,  making  six  in  all. 
Currant  bushes  are  less  spreading  in  growth,  consequently  there  will 
not  be  space  for  so  many  branches,  from  six  to  nine  being  sufficient. 
Red  and  White  Currants  succeed  in  any  well-tilled  land.  A  deep, 
loamy  soil  is  the  best  for  them,  and  a  light,  gravelly  one  the  worst. 
Many  cultivators  plant  them  against  walls  to  insure  a  succession. 
Those  trained  on  walls  facing  west  or  south-west  provide  the  first 
supply,  while  those  on  north  walls  are  the  latest.  As  with  Goose- 
berries, it  is  preferable,  if  possible,  to  have  all  the  plants  together, 
either  upon  a  plot  of  land  or  in  a  row  by  the  side  of  a  walk.  They 
should  be  planted  at  a  distance  of  from  5  feet  to  6  feet  apart.  Plant  in 


468  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

the  autumn,  just  before  the  leaves  fall,  so  that  the  bushes  may  become 
partially  established  before  winter.  Do  not  plant  White  Currants 
between  Red  ones,  for  the  former  grow  less  vigorously  than  the  latter, 
thus  requiring  a  smaller  amount  of  space  for  development. 

General  Treatment. — During  summer,  to  prevent  overcrowding, 
remove  those  shoots  that  are  weak,  and  pinch  the  strongest  ones 
back  to  six  leaves.  The  cultivator  should  always  bear  in  mind  that 
to  provide  the  requisite  nourishment  for  the  development  and  ripening 
of  a  crop  of  fruit,  a  certain  quantity  of  healthy  young  roots  is  essential, 
and  the  way  to  encourage  their  formation  is  to  allow  moderately  free 
growth.  Always  avoid  removing  a  lot  of  foliage  at  once.  Rather  go 
over  the  plants  daily,  and  stop  a  few  of  the  strongest  shoots  each  time, 
or  remove  a  few  of  the  weak  and  useless  ones.  Every  winter,  until  the 
bush  has  reached  the  desired  height,  the  leading  shoots  must  be 
shortened  back  to  about  6  inches,  more  or  less,  according  to  whether 
they  are  exceptionally  vigorous  or  otherwise.  Unless  this  is  done  the 
fruit  spurs  that  eventually  form  will  be  very  weak.  Always  cut  to 
a  bud  pointing  outwards,  so  as  to  preserve  the  symmetry  of  the  bush. 
The  side  shoots  must  be  cut  closely  back  to  within  an  inch  of  the  old 
wood.  The  White  Currant  does  not  require  to  be  pruned  so  hard  as 
the  Red,  for  it  is  of  more  slender  growth,  and  less  vigorous  in  every 
way.  During  summer  spread  manure  round  the  bushes,  for  this  keeps 
the  soil  cool  and  moist,  and  Currants  quickly  suffer  from  drought. 
Do  not  gather  the  fruit  when  wet,  especially  if  intended  for  preserving. 
The  bushes  should  be  covered  with  netting  when  the  fruit  is  ripening, 
or  the  birds  will  prove  destructive.  Currants  are  often  grown 
as  standards,  and  are  then  very  useful,  especially  in  small  gardens; 
moreover,  they  are  quite  easy  to  manage.  Insert  the  cuttings  as 
previously  advised.  In  spring  only  allow  the  shoot  from  the 
top  bud  to  grow,  and  pinch  back  the  others  to  one  or  two  leaves 
as  they  develop.  Do  not  interfere  with  the  leading  shoot  until 
it  has  reached  a  height  of  rather  more  than  3  feet  from  the 
ground.  Fasten  it  to  a  stout  stake,  so  that  it  may  be  held  firmly. 
In  the  autumn  slightly  shorten  the  shoot,  and  next  spring  train  four 
growths  from  just  below  the  apex,  to  form  the  primary  branches  of  the 
tree.  These  will  thus  be  3  feet  above  ground.  The  advantage  of 
standard  trees  is  that  other  bushes  can  be  grown  underneath  them,  for 
there  is,  of  course,  plenty  of  room  for  the  stem  of  a  standard  between 
these. 

Black  Currants. — The  Black  Currant  delights  in  a  deep  moist 
soil,  and  prefers  a  somewhat  shaded  position.  It  does  not  thrive  so 
well  on  poor,  light  land,  although  much  may  be  done  to  improve  this 
by  well  mulching  and  manuring.  The  Black  Currant  must  have 
altogether  different  treatment  to  that  required  for  the  Red  and  White 
kinds.  In  the  first  place,  the  lowest  buds  must  not  be  removed  from 
the  cuttings,  when  these  are  prepared,  for  the  fruit  is  borne  largely 
upon  wood  of  the  previous  season's  growth.  The  object  then  should 
be  to  annually  introduce  as  many  young  shoots  as  possible,  for  these 


CULTIVATION   OF   FRUIT  469 

the  following  year  will  bear  fruit.  Suckers  produce  fruit  equally  as  well 
as  shoots  that  originate  from  the  branches,  and  therefore  must  not  be 
destroyed.  At  the  annual  winter  pruning  remove  the  old  wood  to 
make  room  for  the  new,  and  by  thus  cutting  the  older  shoots  back  to 
a  point  where  a  younger  one  originates  the  bush  is  kept  full  of  good 
bearing  wood. 

Pests. — Some  of  our  small  birds,  bullfinches  especially,  delight  in 
picking  out  the  buds  from  Gooseberry  and  Currant  bushes  in  spring, 
and  if  not  destroyed  or  driven  away  soon  inflict  serious  damage. 
Caterpillars  appear  during  early  summer,  and  feed  upon  the  leaves. 
Undoubtedly  the  most  effective  plan,  although  it  occupies  consider- 
able time,  is  to  pick  off  the  pests  by  hand.  It  is  an  excellent  plan  to 
scatter  lime  amongst  the  branches  of  the  bushes  after  rain,  so  that  it 
adheres  closely,  and  also  spread  some  over  the  ground.  When  this 
is  carried  out  occasionally  throughout  spring  and  summer  caterpillars 
are  seldom  troublesome.  Some  caterpillars  injure  the  interior  of  a 
shoot  of  a  currant  bush,  and  decay  results.  If  such  happens  the 
shoot  should  be  cut  off  and  destroyed.  Black-fly  also  attacks  the 
ends  of  the  young  growths;  to  kill  this  dip  the  latter  in  a  strong 
solution  of  soft  soap  and  warm  water.  For  treatment  of  Black 
Currant  mite  see  p.  493. 

Figs. — Amateurs  do  not  pay  sufficient  attention  to  this  wholesome 
fruit,  for  when  forced  it  will  give  two  splendid  crops. 

Pot  Figs. — This  is  a  most  interesting  way  of  growing  Figs,  as  they 
fruit  very  freely  and  need  little  forcing.  Propagation  is  not  advisable 
for  amateurs  to  practise.  Those  who  have  no  trees  or  convenience 
for  raising  them  should  purchase  from  a  good  source  small  trees  in 
6-inch  or  7 -inch  pots;  they  are  not  costly,  and  ready  for  forcing  at 
once.  With  regard  to  forcing,  so  much  depends  upon  when  the  fruits 
are  required.  For  May  the  plants  should  be  started  in  January  or 
early  in  February,  and  they  like  a  mild  temperature.  When  a  little 
warmth  at  the  roots  in  the  way  of  bottom  heat  can  be  given  so  much 
the  better,  50  degrees  at  night  and  5  degrees  to  10  degrees  higher  by 
day  being  sufficient.  This  in  two  months  may  be  increased,  the  fruits 
thinned,  and  feeding  commence.  All  shoots  should  be  stopped  at  the 
fourth  or  fifth  leaf  from  the  base,  as  that  is  the  bearing  wood  for  the 
next  crop.  Unless  they  are  stopped  the  shoots  rob  the  fruits  of  sus- 
tenance, with  the  result  that  they  turn  yellow  and  drop ;  this  is  one 
of  the  most  important  points  in  Fig  culture.  After  stopping  the  new 
wood  commences  to  form  embryo  fruits  in  the  axils  of  the  leaves,  and 
these  begin  to  swell  at  the  same  time  as  the  plants  are  finishing  their 
first  crop.  All  kinds  do  not  bear  two  crops,  one  of  the  best  in  this 
respect  being  the  Brown  Turkey,  but  the  earliest  variety  is  the 
St.  John — a  white  Fig,  and  the  best  for  pot  culture;  it  rarely  casts 
its  fruit.  St.  John's  has  a  white  flesh  and  green  skin,  and  crops 
heavily.  There  are  other  good  kinds,  such  as  Pingo  de  Niel,  a  white 
fruit;  Violette  Sepor,  a  reddish  fruit  of  good  quality;  the  White 
Marseilles  ;  and  Osborn's  Prolific.  Most  of  these  give  two  crops,  but 


470  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

for  slow  forcing  or  late  use  select  Negro  Largo.  Nubian  is  excellent, 
but  only  gives  one  fine  crop,  and  must  not  be  forced  hard.  For  July, 
August,  and  later  supplies  little  forcing  is  needed,  if  given  house-room, 
as  the  sun  heat  with  early  closing  will  suffice. 

Pot  trees  when  first  started  need  little  moisture  until  in  active 
growth ;  also  only  slight  damping  overhead  in  dull  weather  or  early 
in  the  season.  More  moisture  is  required  later,  and  constant  feeding 
is  needful  when  the  pots  are  small.  After  forcing,  they  succeed  in 
the  open,  plunged  to  prevent  dryness  at  the  root,  and  any  repotting 
should  be  carried  out  when  the  leaf  begins  to  turn  colour.  As  Fig 
trees  grow  very  freely  it  is  not  well  to  overpot  at  any  time.  As  the 
plants  increase  in  size  it  may  be  necessary  to  rely  solely  on  surface 
feeding. 

The  trees  are  subject  to  white  scale,  which  should  be  removed  by 
washing  with  tepid  water  and  soft  soap,  scrubbing  the  old  wood  with  a 
soft  brush.  With  pot  trees  fruit  may  be  obtained  eight  months  in 
the  year,  and  trees  not  forced  hard  never  fail  to  crop  splendidly.  On 
the  other  hand,  when  in  active  growth,  never  allow  them  to  become 
dry  at  the  roots,  as  then  the  fruits  drop. 

Figs  Planted  Out — Much  the  same  treatment  is  necessary  for 
trees  planted  out  in  houses.  The  same  varieties  are  suitable,  but 
none  are  so  reliable  as  Brown  Turkey  for  general  culture.  Most  of 
the  kinds  are  inclined  to  run  to  wood  unless  the  root-space  is  confined  ; 
indeed,  such  kinds  as  the  Negro  Largo,  Nubian,  and  others  fail  to  fruit 
at  all  if  given  ample  root-space  or  an  over  rich  soil.  Of  course  with 
trees  on  walls  or  trellises  a  certain  amount  of  young  wood  must  be 
laid  in  for  leaders  or  extension,  but  keep  others  closely  stopped. 
Only  a  few  leaders  are  needed,  and  thus  old  wood  may  be  removed 
every  winter  and  new  shoots  trained  in,  but  give  ample  space,  as 
crowded  trees  bear  poor  fruits. 

The  temperature  given  for  pot  trees  will  suffice,  and  avoid  at  any 
time  a  high  night  temperature ;  when  started  in  the  spring  50  degrees 
are  ample,  but  a  liberal  use  of  sun  heat  is  advantageous. 

Soils  for  both  pot  and  planted-out  trees  should  consist  of  good 
loam,  to  which  add  a  fourth  part  of  old  fine  mortar  rubble  or  burnt 
refuse.  Wood  ashes  are  especially  good,  as  these  and  the  mortar 
rubble  build  up  short-jointed  fruiting  wood.  In  potting  or  planting 
ample  drainage  and  firm  potting  are  essential;  indeed,  the  rammer 
should  be  used  freely,  and  give  no  manure  other  than  as  a  mulch 
during  the  fruiting  season.  Plunge  small  pot  trees  when  fruiting  to 
prevent  dryness.  After  the  crop  is  removed  the  trees  should  be  freely 
exposed  and  syringed  in  fine  weather  to  keep  the  foliage  clean,  and  any 
small  spray  growth  pruned  away  to  admit  light  to  the  branches.  In 
taking  a  second  crop  thin  freely.  As  the  trees  bear  such  heavy  crops 
the  early  one  next  season  suffers  when  thinning  is  forgotten. 

Figs  for  Open  Walls. — In  many  parts  of  the  British  Isles  it  is 
necessary  to  plant  the  Fig  under  a  glass  coping,  or  it  fails  to  ripen. 
On  the  other  hand,  in  Sussex,  the  Fig  does  splendidly  as  a 


CULTIVATION   OF   FRUIT  471 

bush  near  the  coast.  The  Brunswick,  a  pear-shaped  fruit,  develops 
exceptionally  well;  also  other  kinds,  but  this  is  unusually  good. 
With  regard  to  the  position  the  trees  should  occupy,  choose  a  west 
or  south  wall,  and  when  planting  make  the  soil,  or  add  to  it,  so  that 
the  roots  obtain  a  good  percentage  of  chalk  or  lime,  as  this  results 
in  a  firmer  growth ;  the  trees  are  hardier  and  more  fruitful.  March 
or  April  is  the  best  time  to  plant,  and  the  trees  may  be  selected 
with  a  single  leg  or  stem,  as,  unless  this  is  done,  sucker  growth  is 
troublesome.  On  the  other  hand,  they  may,  with  advantage,  have 
three  leaders.  Train  these  in,  and  a  wall  is  more  quickly  filled,  as 
from  each  of  these  main  shoots  others  will  converge.  They  should  be 
at  a  distance  of  18  inches  apart;  this  will  allow  for  spur-growths 
from  the  side  shoots,  all  foreright  shoots  being  rubbed  off  as  they 
appear — that  is,  the  shoots  that  push  out  at  right  angles  to  the  wall. 
All  shoots  should  come  from  the  sides,  and,  as  far  as  possible,  at 
about  equal  distances  apart. 

There  are  fewer  varieties  to  choose  from  for  open  walls.  The 
Brunswick  is  one  of  the  best,  and  Brown  Turkey  is  very  fine  in  a  warm 
soil  or  upon  a  south  wall.  In  the  north  of  England  and  in  Scotland 
Castle  Kennedy  is  a  favourite,  but  it  does  not  bear  freely  and  makes 
rather  gross  wood.  Brunswick  is  far  more  trustworthy  and  profitable 
if  given  room  to  expand  on  a  warm  wall,  the  old  wood  cut  out,  and 
new  growths  laid  in  each  year.  Another  very  good  open-wall  variety 
is  White  Marseilles,  and,  like  the  Brown  Turkey,  is  excellent  when 
forced — indeed,  these  two  last  named  and  the  Brunswick  are  un- 
doubtedly the  most  suitable  for  walls.  Even  in  the  south  it  is 
necessary  at  times  to  protect  the  trees  in  winter.  Unnail  the  branches, 
cut  out  useless  wood  in  November,  tie  the  branches  in  bundles, 
and  wrap  straw,  hay,  or,  what  is  better,  dry  bracken  well  round  the 
wood,  and  then  encircle  with  mats.  Make  the  trees  firmly  secure 
to  the  wall  after  the  mat  has  been  placed  round  the  protecting  materials. 
In  April  remove  the  covering,  and  a  little  later  nail  the  trees  in  their 
places,  and  stop  side  growths,  as  advised  for  forced  trees. 

Melons. — Many  amateurs  are  afraid  to  grow  the  Melon;  its 
culture  is  regarded  as  mysterious;  but  once  a  few  important  details 
are  mastered,  the  work  is  quite  easy.  Usually  the  beginner  kills  the 
plant  with  kindness  at  the  start.  Little  food  is  required  at  first,  as 
a  rich  root  run  means  gross  growth  and  poor  fruits  or  none  at  all. 
Setting  is  a  difficult  matter,  as  the  plants  run  to  leaf,  the  little  fruits 
turn  yellow  and  refuse  to  swell. 

Melons  in  Houses.—  Where  Melons  are  forced  for  early  fruits  at 
least  three  crops  may  be  taken  in  the  same  house  by  having  strong 
plants  ready  to  put  out  as  fruit  is  taken  from  the  old  ones.  Many 
good  growers  can  take  two  crops  from  one  set  of  plants,  but  great 
attention  is  necessary.  Beginners  could  not  be  expected  to  do  this. 
If  Melon  seed  is  sown  in  January  the  fruits  should  be  ripe  at  the  end  of 
May  or  early  in  June.  Another  set  of  strong  plants  should  be  ready, 
and  these  will  ripen  in  the  middle  of  August,  as  from  June  to  August 


472  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

is  the  most  favourable  season.  Strong  plants  being  put  out  at  that 
date  will  finish  their  fruits  in  October,  but,  of  course,  with  frame 
culture  only  one  crop  can  be  attempted.  Sow  the  seed  early  in  April, 
plant  as  soon  as  four  leaves  have  been  made,  and  grow  on,  care  being 
taken  to  ventilate  carefully,  as  with  frame  culture  every  bit  of  warmth 
from  sun  heat  is  beneficial. 

Grown  thus  bottom  heat  is  beneficial,  as  the  plants  receive  a  dis- 
tinct start  early  in  the  year;  it  is  less  important  later  on,  but  in  the 
autumn  it  is  again  useful  in  finishing  up  a  late  crop.  A  small  pit,  or  a 
span  or  lean-to  house,  is  preferable  to  a  larger  structure,  as  atmospheric 
moisture  is  better  maintained.  Excellent  crops  may  be  secured  in  a 
pit  with  8  feet  to  n  feet  run  of  rafter,  or  even  less,  as  the  plants 
may  be  fruited  at  3  feet  from  the  bed.  The  best  method  of  culture  is 
unquestionably  to  run  the  growth  at  the  start  in  a  single  cordon,  then 
stop  at,  say,  2 J  to  3  feet  from  the  base.  The  plants  will  then  throw  out 
side  or  lateral  growths,  and  show  both  male  and  female  flowers.  Both 
are  needed,  as,  unlike  Cucumbers,  Melons  do  not  set  unless  fertilised, 
and  the  grower  cannot  depend  on  insect  agency  to  perform  the  work. 
Pinch  out  the  points  of  the  side  shoots  when  they  are  from  15  inches 
to  21  inches  in  length.  By  this  stopping  the  vigour  of  the  plant  is 
thrown  into  the  fruit.  The  flowers  will  now  open  and  require  setting, 
as  it  is  well  to  secure  the  first  fruits  that  show;  delay  means  several 
weeks,  as  another  set  must  be  secured  from  later  growth.  In  the  case 
of  Melons,  set  the  flowers  at  one  time,  or  within  a  few  days,  otherwise 
the  first  fruits  will  monopolise  the  sap  and  the  later  ones  refuse  to 
swell.  Three  or  four  flowers  should  at  least  be  set  if  that  number  of 
fruits  be  required,  and  that  is  a  fair  quantity  for  plants  with  limited  top 
growth.  The  way  to  set  is  as  follows : — The  male  flowers  are  soon 
distinguished  from  the  female,  which  have  small  Melon-like  formations 
at  base  with  the  flowers  attached,  whereas  the  male  is  a  simple  open 
flower  with  merely  a  stalk.  The  male  flower  must  be  taken  from  the 
plant  with,  say,  half  an  inch  of  the  stalk,  and  gently  divested  of  the 
corolla  or  the  yellow  part  quite  close  to  the  green  portion.  The 
remaining  portion  will  be  found  covered  with  pollen,  or  a  fine  powder, 
and  this  part  is  gently  pressed  inside  the  female  flower.  It  remains 
there,  the  latter  closes,  and  in  two  or  three  days  begins  to  swell  freely. 
Of  course  the  plants  must  not  be  syringed  overhead  when  in  flower,  and 
a  little  more  ventilation  will  be  beneficial.  From  this  day  feeding  may 
commence,  either  with  liquid  manure  or  with  fertilisers.  Top  dressing 
with  loam  to  which  bone-meal  or  fertilisers  have  been  added  will  assist 
growth.  Go  over  the  plants  every  week,  cutting  out  useless  side 
growths  to  prevent  crowding,  and  in  all  cases  allow  growth  to  proceed 
from  beyond  the  fruits.  Many  crops  have  been  lost  by  close  stopping, 
practised  to  prevent  growth  beyond  the  fruit,  but  this  interferes  with 
its  proper  development. 

Syringing  and  watering  are  important  details  from  the  start  until 
flowering  time ;  it  is  well  to  syringe  early  in  the  day  and  when  closing 
the  house.  Damp  the  house  down  freely  at  other  times  when  the 


CULTIVATION    OF   FRUIT  473 

weather  is  bright.  Little  water  is  needed  at  first  until  the  fruits  have 
set,  then  give  more  and  syringe  freely  until  ripening  commences. 
More  air  and  less  moisture  will  be  needful  to  secure  full  flavour.  In 
a  house  a  liberal 

Temperature  must  be  maintained.  At  planting,  say,  in  January, 
65  degrees  at  night  or  60  degrees  in  any  cold  weather  will  suffice, 
with  a  rise  of  10  degrees  during  the  day;  it  is  better  to  promote  free 
growth  during  daylight  than  risk  over-heating  during  cold  nights. 
To  save  hard  firing  cover  the  glass  with  mats  or  canvas,  and  stronger 
growth  results.  When  the  fruits  have  set  a  few  degrees  higher  tem- 
perature will  be  beneficial,  but  careful  ventilation  is  more  important. 
On  some  cold  days  it  will  be  impossible  to  ventilate  freely,  but  by 
damping  down  the  house  and  care  in  firing  the  temperature  can  be 
maintained. 

Melons,  unless  when  first  planted,  need  no  shade  of  any  kind.  Inure 
them  to  the  full  sun  as  soon  as  the  roots  obtain  hold  of  the  soil.  On  the 
other  hand,  if  there  is  free  exposure,  too  much  fire  heat,  and  insufficient 
atmospheric  moisture,  the  plants  will  suffer  from  insect  pests,  such 
as  red-spider  and  black-fly.  For  the  former  syringe  freely  with 
tepid  water,  to  which  add  soft  soap  to  make  it  like  milk  and  a  lump  of 
sulphur  the  size  of  an  egg,  and  well  mix.  Shade  the  glass  for  a  few 
days  and  keep  both  house  and  plants  moist  and  the  spider  will  soon 
disappear,  as  it  cannot  exist  in  a  moist  house.  Black-fly  is  as  trouble- 
some and  needs  even  stronger  measures.  Dip  the  affected  points  of 
the  shoots  in  tobacco  water.  Syringe  the  plants  with  a  weaker  solution 
and  fumigate  twice  a  week  when  the  soil  is  dry,  but  in  the  intervals 
maintain  a  moister  atmosphere,  as  the  pest  delights  in  dry  heat.  In 
very  bad  cases  it  may  be  necessary  to  sponge  the  leaves,  but,  if 
possible,  the  pest  should  be  destroyed  in  its  early  stages. 

Another  disease,  more  difficult  to  eradicate,  is  canker  of  the  stem, 
and  if  not  arrested  the  whole  plant  sometimes  collapses.  When  first 
seen  put  finely-powdered  fresh  lime  over  the  cankered  portion,  and 
always  keep  the  soil  dry  near  the  stem  when  watering.  Canker  is 
also  caused  by  allowing  a  too  free  growth,  severe  stopping,  too  sudden 
fall  of  temperature,  and  excess  of  moisture. 

Soil. — A  good  stiff  loamy  soil  should  be  chosen  for  Melons,  and 
this  with  a  small  portion  of  bone-meal  or  fine  old  mortar  rubble  makes 
a  good  compost.  Manures  are  unnecessary;  it  is  wiser  to  rely  on 
surface  foods  given  when  required.  The  soil  also  should  not  be  sifted, 
but  left  in  a  rough  state,  using  a  little  fine  material  round  the  roots 
at  planting.  Some  growers  do  not  make  a  bed,  but  place  a  ridge  or 
heap  of  soil  at  the  start,  say  half  a  bushel  to  a  plant.  This  is  increased 
by  another  when  the  fruits  are  set,  and  of  a  little  richer  material. 
Make  the  soil  quite  firm,  and  stake  firmly  and  carefully.  Use  tepid 
water  for  watering  and  syringing,  and  put  the  plants  out  on  the  beds 
at  3  feet  apart  in  the  house.  They  may  be  a  little  nearer  if  the 
variety  is  a  compact  grower,  and  4  feet  may  be  given  if  two  growths 
are  taken  from  one  plant.  To  do  this  stop  the  plants  at  from  12 


474  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

inches  to  18  inches  from  the  soil.  The  two  strong  shoots  at  the 
upper  portion  are  then  trained  over  the  trellis  and  all  those  below 
rubbed  out,  the  main  shoots  being  again  stopped  at  3  feet  to  4  feet 
as  advised  above  for  the  single  shoots.  Grown  thus  plants,  soil, 
and  labour  are  saved  at  the  start,  but  more  attention  is  needed  to 
secure  a  full  set  of  fruit.  The  single  growth  system  at  the  start  is 
preferable  for  beginners,  and  by  doing  so  an  earlier  set  is  obtained. 

Frame  Culture  is  very  similar.  The  temperatures  given  above 
cannot  in  this  method  of  culture  be  kept  up,  but  much  may  be  done 
by  careful  ventilation,  early  closing,  covering  at  night,  and  giving  a 
thin  shade  in  the  day  to  avoid  scorching.  Manure  will  be  the  heating 
agency,  and  place  this  in  sufficient  quantity  to  start  the  plants  freely. 
If  put  out  in  May  the  plants  should  bear  fruit  at  the  end  of  August. 
When  planting  keep  the  frame  close  for  a  few  days,  and  with  frame 
culture  less  water  is  needed,  but  the  soil  should  be  moist  all  over.  A 
bushel  of  soil  to  each  plant  or  light  at  the  start  will  suffice.  Peg 
the  growths  down  when  large  enough  to  the  soil,  stop  at  18  inches, 
and  train  two  or  three  shoots  over  the  surface.  Stop  these  growths 
when  plenty  of  fruit  shows,  and  then  set  the  fruit  as  advised  for  house 
cultivation,  keeping  the  plants  drier  and  admitting  more  air.  When 
large  enough  place  the  fruits  on  slates  or  tiles  to  keep  them  from  the 
soil,  and  useless  growths  must  be  removed,  as  with  frame  culture 
ample  light  is  important.  Excellent  Melons  may  also  be  grown  in 
cold  frames ;  but  grown  thus  greater  care  is  needed  in  watering  and 
ventilating. 

Nectarines  and  Peaches. — The  Nectarine  is  a  popular  hardy 
fruit ;  it  is  very  pretty  and  of  rich  vinous  flavour.  Moreover,  the  trees 
are  easily  grown,  and  will  succeed  on  open  walls  as  well  as  in  borders 
and  pots  under  glass.  Nectarines  may  be  grown  in  either  a  span- 
roofed  or  lean-to  structure,  which  must  be  light  and  well-ventilated, 
and  supplied  with  sufficient  hot-water  piping.  The  border,  which  may 
be  either  inside  or  outside  the  house,  should  be  about  z\  feet  deep, 
and  where  the  subsoil  is  clayey,  cover  it  with  concrete,  and  have  a 
good  fall  and  a  4-inch  drain  pipe  to  carry  off  superfluous  water. 
Several  inches  of  broken  bricks  should  be  laid  in  the  bottom  of  the 
border,  and  these  must  be  covered  with  turf,  grass  side  downwards,  to 
prevent  the  soil  from  blocking  the  drainage.  Where,  however,  the 
subsoil  is  naturally  porous,  no  concrete  will  be  necessary.  Nectarines 
succeed  best  in  good  loamy  soil,  rather  strong  than  otherwise,  with 
a  good  quantity  of  mortar  or  plaster  refuse  added.  Animal  manure 
should  not  be  used,  as  it  encourages  a  too  strong  growth.  The 
firmer  the  border  is  made  the  better.  Choose  healthy,  evenly-balanced 
trees  free  from  canker,  and  plant  them  in  November  or  December. 
Remove  all  unripe  wood  and  coarse  or  damaged  roots  with  a  sharp 
knife,  and  spread  out  the  rest  evenly,  covering  them  with  about 
4  inches  of  soil,  making  it  very  firm.  Give  a  gentle  watering,  and  cover 
the  surface  lightly  with  leaf-mould  or  short  manure  to  keep  it  moist. 
Keep  the  house  very  cool  and  airy  during  winter,  and  allow  the  trees 


0) 


CARDINAL  NECTARINE  IN  OPEN. 


CULTIVATION   OF   FRUIT  475 

to  start  naturally  into  growth  in  spring.  When  the  young  shoots  are 
half  an  inch  long  commence  to  disbud,  removing  all  those  shoots 
growing  out  from  the  front  of  the  branches,  and  leaving  as  many  on 
each  side  of  the  previous  year's  branches  as  can  be  laid  in  without 
crowding.  Should  any  extra  strong  shoots  start  from  the  centre  of 
the  tree,  cut  them  clean  away,  as  if  allowed  to  remain  they  will  rob  the 
rest  of  the  trees  of  sap.  Tie  the  growths  to  the  trellis,  keeping  them 
as  straight  and  even  as  possible,  and  freely  syringing  them  every  fine 
afternoon,  to  keep  red-spider  at  bay.  Admit  plenty  of  air,  keep  the 
border  moist,  and  when  the  foliage  commences  to  change  colour  in 
autumn  keep  the  ventilators  open  continually.  When  the  wood  is 
ripe  prune  the  trees,  cutting  the  shoots  back  into  the  firm  wood,  and 
training  them  carefully  to  the  trellis,  finally  washing  the  woodwork 
and  glass  with  warm  soapy  water,  the  walls  with  lime-wash,  and  pick- 
ing the  border  over  with  a  fork.  Early  in  the  following  February 
close  the  house,  well  water  the  border,  and  syringe  the  trees  with 
tepid  water  morning  and  afternoon  in  fine  weather.  Admit  air  liber- 
ally but  cautiously,  and  when  the  trees  are  in  bloom  maintain  a 
temperature  of  50  degrees  with  a  rise  of  10  or  15  degrees  from  sun  heat, 
together  with  a  rather  dry  atmosphere,  and  give  the  trellis  a  sharp  rap 
at  midday  to  disperse  the  pollen,  and  assist  in  setting  the  fruits. 
Syringing  must  be  discontinued  while  the  trees  are  in  flower,  but 
again  resorted  to  directly  the  fruit  is  set.  The  border  and  pathways 
of  the  house  must  also  be  sprinkled  several  times  daily.  Disbud 
piecemeal,  commencing  at  the  top  of  the  tree  and  removing  a  few 
shoots  daily.  A  shoot  should  be  left  at  the  base  of  each  fruit-bearing 
lateral,  and  one  at  the  extremity,  all  the  intermediate  shoots  being 
removed.  If  the  fruits  set  thickly,  a  few  of  them  must  be  removed  at 
a  time,  and  the  rest  left  about  6  inches  apart.  Keep  the  border 
moist,  admit  air  freely  in  fine  weather,  and  if  green-fly  or  thrip  makes 
its  appearance,  fumigate  the  house  mildly  several  times  with  tobacco 
paper.  As  soon  as  the  fruit  is  stoned,  the  final  thinning  must  be  made, 
leaving  them  9  inches  or  10  inches  apart.  Close  the  house  early 
on  sunny  afternoons,  to  shut  in  all  the  sun  heat  possible,  and  induce 
the  fruit  to  swell.  Water  trees  carrying  heavy  crops  with  weak  liquid 
manure,  or  sprinkle  a  little  native  guano  on  the  surface,  and  water  it 
in.  When  the  fruit  commences  to  colour  cease  syringing,  and  mulch 
the  border  with  short  manure  or  dry  bracken  to  prevent  rapid  evapora- 
tion. A  somewhat  dry  atmosphere  and  a  liberal  supply  of  air  night 
and  day  are  necessary  for  the  production  of  large,  richly-flavoured  fruit. 
After  the  fruit  is  gathered,  all  shoots  which  have  borne  fruit  must  be 
cut  out,  in  order  to  admit  all  the  light  and  air  possible  to  the  current 
year's  wood.  Very  little  pruning  will  then  be  necessary  in  winter. 
From  this  time  until  the  leaves  fall  off,  plenty  of  water  at  the  roots  and 
a  continual  supply  of  air  will  be  the  chief  requirements. 

The  Peach  requires  much  the  same  treatment  as  the  Nectarine. 
Good  varieties  will  be  found  in  the  table  on  p.  609. 

Nuts. — The  amateur  gardener  in  the  country  could  often  grow 


476  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

Nuts  in  the  garden  or  orchard  and  enjoy  a  profitable  pastime,  but 
careful  attention  must  be  given  to  the  trees  in  the  early  stages  of 
growth.  Nuts,  like  other  fruit  trees,  succeed  well  in  good  soil.  In 
Kent  the  Cob  and  Filbert  trees  are  first  favourites,  and  excellent 
prices  are  obtained  for  the  Kent  Cobs;  indeed  the  Kentish  trees, 
owing  to  the  attention  received,  frequently  bear  when  others  fail. 
The  beginner  may  grow  quite  as  good  Nuts  as  dwellers  in  Kent,  and 
at  no  great  cost.  It  is  useless  to  plant  hedges  and  allow  them  to 
grow  in  their  own  way.  The  pruned  trees  are  not  so  pleasing  in 
appearance  in  winter  as  a  pyramid  bush  Apple  or  Pear  tree,  but  they 
are  quite  as  profitable.  Once  the  trees  have  assumed  their  correct 
shape  they  do  not  give  much  trouble. 

The  trees  are  raised  mostly  from  layers,  and  this  is  the  best  system 
to  obtain  a  true  stock,  as  though  at  times  seedlings  come  true  they  are 
not  trustworthy.  In  the  Kent  Nut-fields  the  trees  do  not  always  occupy 
the  whole  space ;  the  trees  or  bushes  are  trained  low,  and  there  are 
rows  of  standard  Plums  or  Apples  at  distances  of  30  feet  to  40  feet 
apart,  and  these  trees,  in  addition  to  being  valuable  for  their  crop,  act 
as  a  protection  to  the  Nuts  when  in  flower  in  spring.  No  one  who 
can  grow  good  Plums  or  stone  fruits  need  hesitate  about  planting  Nuts, 
and  though  they  like  a  deep  and  well-drained  soil,  in  some  parts  of 
Kent  there  are  excellent  trees  on  banks  in  rough,  poor  soil,  which, 
however,  in  many  cases,  is  top-dressed  with  quick  acting  fertilisers. 
Excellent  crops  are  produced. 

The  beginner  should  purchase  stock  from  a  good  source,  and 
select  the  best  kinds.  As  these  trees  begin  to  grow  early  in  the  season 
autumn  planting  is  advised.  When  planting  leave  the  trees  10  feet 
apart.  Fifteen  feet  is  sometimes  allowed,  and  then  there  is  none 
too  much  room;  but  almost  everything  depends  upon  the  soil  and 
variety.  Some  kinds  require  greater  space,  and  when  20  feet  is  given 
between  the  rows  dwarf  bush  fruits  may  be  planted.  The  smaller 
space  is  preferable  between  the  trees  in  the  row,  and  give,  say,  31  feet 
to  40  feet  clear  space  for  standard  fruit  trees.  On  the  other  hand,  when 
15  feet  is  allowed,  and  bush  Currants,  Gooseberries,  or  even  rows  of 
Strawberries  are  grown  between  the  trees,  when  the  Nut  bushes  need 
more  space  it  is  an  easy  matter  to  destroy  the  bush  fruits.  It  may 
appear  strange  to  the  beginner  to  be  told  that  trained  and  regularly 
formed  Nut  trees  are  far  more  profitable  than  the  rougher  type  seen 
so  frequently  in  gardens.  Those  who  intend  to  make  Nuts  profitable 
would  do  well  to  study  the  two  systems.  Trees  in  a  garaen  are  often 
merely  a  thicket  or  hedge  of  growth  and  a  few  Nuts  appear  at  times. 
Then  there  is  a  fair  crop  on  that  portion  of  the  trees  exposed  to  the 
light.  The  Nut,  on  the  other  hand,  is  not  at  all  fastidious  as  to  soils, 
and  rarely  fails  when  hard  pruned  year  after  year,  so  that  the  restricted 
branches  are  like  an  old  Apple  tree  cut  hard  back  yearly  and  only  spur- 
growth  allowed  to  develop. 

The  trees  are  in  many  cases  kept  quite  open  in  the  centre,  or  what 
may  be  called  cup-shaped.  Some,  however,  are  more  spreading  and 


CULTIVATION    OF  FRUIT  477 

resemble  saucers  or  shallow  bowls.  When  the  form  of  the  trees  has 
been  decided  upon  cut  away  strong  side  shoots  at  pruning  time,  but 
leave  the  small  twiggy  wood,  as  this  produces  the  fruit  and  catkin,  to 
assist  in  setting  a  crop.  Cut  back  also  the  main  or  leading  shoots 
when  no  extension  of  the  trees  is  necessary,  and  these  will  then  form 
spurs  or  buds  for  next  season's  supply. 

The  Cosford  bears  catkins  abundantly,  and  on  this  account  alone  is 
valuable  to  plant  among  other  varieties.  It  is  also  a  first-rate  variety 
with  a  roundish  nut,  thin  shell,  and  very  sweet  flavour.  This  will 
come  quite  true  from  seed,  which  makes  it  a  valuable  garden  variety. 
No  matter  what  variety  is  grown,  sucker  growth  should  not  be  allowed, 
and  if  the  trees  are  a  fair  size  when  obtained  they  will  have  a  clear 
stem  of  at  least  i  foot  to  2  feet  from  the  soil.  The  aim  of  the 
cultivator  should  be  to  keep  the  trees  open.  Secure  six  to  eight  or 
more  leaders,  and  then  prune  close  in  every  season,  allowing  the  main 
shoot  to  extend  as  far  as  desired. 

In  a  few  words,  the  main  or  strong  lateral  growths  are  cut  close, 
the  short,  small  spray  wood  is  left,  and  no  suckers  are  allowed  from 
the  stems  or  from  the  soil.  Many  years  must  elapse  before  large  trees 
can  be  formed,  but  once  formed  they  remain  fruitful  for  a  lifetime,  and, 
given  food  in  the  way  of  surface  dressing  in  the  winter  months,  they 
are  most  profitable.  Night  soil,  mixed  with  long  litter  that  has  been 
in  heaps  for  some  months,  may  be  made  good  use  of  for  old  Nut  trees. 
Young  trees  that  produce  gross  wood  should  not  be  fed. 

Varieties. — The  following  are  a  few  of  the  leading  kinds.  One 
of  the  best  is  the  Cosford,  which  has  been  already  described.  The 
Kentish  Cob  is  one  of  the  most  prolific,  a  good  market  variety  and 
free,  and  the  newer  Webb's  Prize  Crop  promises  well.  This  is  an  im- 
proved Kent  variety,  and  a  larger  cob  than  the  older  one.  In  the 
Filbert  none  can  beat  the  true  Kent  variety  for  flavour,  but  this 
should  be  planted  where  a  little  protection  can  be  afforded.  It  is  not 
so  prolific  as  the  old  Red  Filbert,  which  has  a  red  skin  and  is  very 
free.  The  Filbert  Prolific  is  distinct,  produces  fine  clusters,  having  a 
cut  or  frizzled  husk,  and  is  much  liked  in  its  green  state  before  being 
kept. 

The  Raspberry. — The  Raspberry  grows  wild  in  moist  and  shady 
places  in  many  parts  of  England.  Its  home  life  reveals  its  require- 
ments as  to  soil  and  situation.  It  succeeds  best  in  a  deep  and  moist 
soil.  In  poor  shallow  soil  its  surface  roots  suffer  from  insufficient 
moisture  and  nourishment.  If  the  ground  upon  which  it  is  intended 
to  cultivate  Raspberries  is  light  and  rather  poor,  improve  it  by  digging 
in  decayed  leaves,  or  other  refuse  from  the  vegetable  garden,  and 
also  manure  if  available.  A  good  mulch  early  in  spring  for  a  short 
distance  around  the  canes  is  of  great  benefit.  The  numerous  fibrous 
surface  roots  are  kept  cool  and  protected  from  the  drying  effects  of  the 
hot  sun,  while  they  are  benefited  by  the  mulch. 

Planting. — The  best  time  for  this  is  when  the  leaves  are  falling  in 
autumn,  viz.  in  the  month  of  October.  Raspberries  are  usually  trained 


47  8  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

to  horizontal  wires  fixed  between  upright  poles.  These  espaliers  (for 
such  are  formed  by  the  poles  and  wires)  should  be  5  feet  apart,  and 
each  plant  about  2  feet  from  its  neighbour.  If  autumn  planting  is 
impossible  postpone  the  work  until  the  month  of  March.  This  is 
preferable  to  planting  in  midwinter,  when  the  soil  is  cold  and  wet, 
although  such  good  progress  cannot  be  expected  from  spring-planted 
canes  as  from  those  put  in  during  October.  The  latter  have  an  oppor- 
tunity of  becoming  established  before  winter,  and  are  then  ready  to 
start  well  in  spring.  Raspberry  canes  may  also  be  trained  to  single 
stakes,  placed  in  rows  5  feet  apart,  with  a  distance  of  3  feet  between 
each  stake  in  the  row. 

The  shoots,  or  "  canes  "  as  they  are  generally  called,  of  the  Rasp- 
berry are  produced  every  year  either  from  a  perennial  (i.e.  living  for 
several  years)  root-stock,  or  from  the  roots.  In  the  latter  case  they 
are  termed  suckers.  It  is  not  advisable  to  keep  the  root-stocks  of 
Raspberries  more  than  six  or  eight  years ;  but  replant  with  younger 
canes,  as  from  these  finer  fruit  is  obtained  in  greater  abundance.  The 
canes  that  develop  one  season  produce  fruit  the  next ;  thus  while  the 
canes  of  the  past  year  are  bearing  fruits,  others  are  developing  to 
provide  the  following  summer's  crop.  It  will  thus  be  apparent  that 
the  cultivator  should  endeavour  to  produce  as  many  firm  healthy  canes 
every  year  as  can  be  comfortably  found  room  for.  When  the  fruit 
is  gathered  the  canes  upon  which  it  was  borne  should  be  removed,  for 
they  are  of  no  further  value.  Cut  them  off  at  their  base  and  draw 
them  downwards  to  avoid  injuring  the  remaining  ones.  If  the  Rasp- 
berries are  grown  against  stakes  not  more  than  six  or  eight  new  canes 
must  be  allowed  to  remain  annually.  When  trained  against  horizontal 
wires  leave  a  space  of  several  inches  between  each  cane.  Those  shoots 
not  required  for  fruiting  the  following  year  should  be  removed  early  in 
the  season,  soon  after  they  make  their  appearance.  The  whole  vigour 
of  the  plant  may  then  be  concentrated  in  developing  only  the  neces- 
sary growths. 

Summer  Treatment. — This  consists  in  destroying  weeds  by  means 
of  hoeing  the  ground,  covering  the  surface  of  the  latter  with  manure, 
and  allowing  no  more  than  the  necessary  number  of  canes  to  remain. 
When  the  fruits  are  swelling,  if  the  weather  is  at  all  dry,  a  good  water- 
ing will  prove  helpful.  As  above  mentioned,  after  the  fruits  are  gathered, 
cut  away  the  old  canes  so  that  the  younger  wood  may  not  be  interfered 
with.  In  the  autumn  shorten  back  the  strongest  canes  of  those  that 
are  to  bear  next  year's  crop  of  fruit  to  about  5  feet,  less  vigorous  ones 
to,  say,  4  feet,  and  the  remainder  to  about  3  feet.  Such  a  method 
prevents  overcrowding. 

Propagation. — The  most  convenient  method  of  increasing  the 
Raspberry  is  by  means  of  suckers,  which,  as  already  mentioned,  are 
produced  from  the  roots.  The  strongest  of  these  should  be  carefully 
detached,  and  planted  in  good  soil  in  the  autumn,  and  eventually 
trained  either  to  stakes  or  wires.  When  planting  cut  down  the  shoot 
to  within  10  or  12  inches  of  the  soil.  This  will  bring  about  the 


CULTIVATION   OF   FRUIT  479 

production  of  stronger  canes  the  following  year  than  would  be  the  case 
if  the  primary  shoot  were  left  unpruned.  Offsets  from  the  root-stock 
may  also  be  used  for  propagating.  These  must  be  carefully  removed 
from  the  established  plants  so  as  to  disturb  them  as  little  as  possible. 
Root  suckers  are  often  produced  at  some  distance  away  from  the 
parent  plant,  and  so  can  be  detached  without  fear  of  injuring  the 
latter. 

Autumn -Fruiting  Raspberries. — Raspberry  bushes  may  also  be  had 
in  fruit  in  the  autumn.  The  plants,  however,  require  different  treat- 
ment to  the  summer-fruiting  kinds.  The  fruit  is  borne  upon  the 
current  year's  growth  and  not  upon  canes  made  during  the  previous 
year.  The  proper  way  is  to  cut  down  the  canes  in  the  month  of 
February  to  within  a  few  inches  of  the  ground,  and  shoots  will  then 
push  from  them  vigorously.  These  must  have  a  liberal  amount  of 
sun  and  air  so  as  to  become  well  developed  before  the  end  of  summer. 
The  canes  should  therefore  not  be  quite  so  close  together  as  the 
summer-fruiting  ones.  Water  liberally  if  the  weather  is  dry,  and 
also  give  manure  water  to  assist  fruit  development.  The  following 
varieties  are  suitable  for  autumn  fruiting :  Belle  de  Fontenay,  large, 
red ;  Noire  d'Automne,  large,  very  dark ;  October  Red,  bright  red ; 
October  Yellow,  medium  sized,  yellow. 

Summer-Fruiting  Raspberries.— Superlative,  large,  red,  produc- 
ing heavy  crops  of  fruit ;  Hornet,  a  fine  large  red  variety ;  Baum- 
forth's  Seedling,  an  excellent  variety,  red. 


FRUIT  TREES  AS  GARDEN  ORNAMENTS 

The  best  use  of  many  fruit-bearing  trees  is  not  restricted 
to  the  kitchen  garden  only,  for  many  of  them  are  beautiful 
things  in  the  most  dressed  ground.  Few  small  trees  are  more 
graceful  in  growth  than  the  old  English  Quince  that  bears 
the  smooth  roundish  fruits.  It  is  not  only  a  pleasant  object 
in  leaf  and  flower  in  early  summer  and  in  autumn  glory  of 
golden  fruit,  but  even  when  bare  of  leaves  in  winter,  a  fully 
matured  tree  is  strikingly  beautiful ;  and  in  boggy  ground, 
where  no  other  fruit  tree  would  thrive,  it  is  just  at  its  happiest, 
and  is  most  fruitful.  Then  many  Apples  are  extremely  orna- 
mental ;  and  there  is  a  whole  range  of  Crabs — Siberian, 
Chinese,  John  Downie,  Dartmouth,  and  other  home-raised 
hybrids — that  are  delightful  things  both  in  flower  and  fruit. 
Pyrus  Malusy  vieing  in  beauty  of  bloom  with  its  near  relatives 
the  Japanese  Quinces,  is  particularly  beautiful,  especially 
during  the  autumn  months. 

There  are  no  better  garden  ornaments  for  foliage  than 
Figs  and  Vines,  and  though  the  needful  pruning  of  a  Vine 


480  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

for  fruit  takes  off  somewhat  from  its  pictorial  value,  which 
depends  in  some  measure  on  the  wide-flung  luscious  summer 
growth  and  groping  tendril,  yet  in  any  shape  the  Grape  Vine 
is  a  thing  of  beauty.  Some  of  its  garden  kinds  also  show  how, 
in  distinct  departures  in  colour  and  shape  of  leaf,  it  is  always 
beautiful,  for  the  parsley-leaved  Vine,  with  its  dainty  and 
deeply-cut  foliage,  is  a  suitable  accompaniment  to  the  most 
refined  architecture  ;  while  the  red  purple  leaf  of  the  Claret 
Vine  and  its  close  clusters  of  blue  fruit  are  richly  ornamental 
in  autumn. 

A  Medlar  tree,  with  its  large  white  bloom,  and  handsome 
leaves,  is  desirable,  and  several  of  the  Service  trees  are  orna- 
mental small  trees. 

Every  one  knows  the  lovely  pink  bloom  of  the  Almond  in 
April ;  but  few  may  have  tried  something  that  is  not  an  experi- 
ment but  a  certainty,  viz.  the  successful  culture  of  the  hardier 
Peaches,  near  relatives  to  the  Almond,  as  standards  in  the 
south  of  England.  A  Peach  of  American  origin,  the  Early 
Alexander,  bears  full  or  fair  crops  every  year.  The  only 
danger  is  from  leaf  blisters  from  sudden  cold  in  May ;  but  if 
its  place  is  sheltered,  or  if  it  can  be  afforded  the  protection  of 
a  net,  it  will  suffer  but  little,  and  perfectly  ripened  Peaches, 
red  all  round,  may  be  had  at  the  end  of  July. 

The  beauty  of  Cherry  blossom  is  so  well  known  that  it 
needs  no  extolling  ;  and  any  great  and  high  wall  looks  the 
better  at  all  seasons  for  a  well-trained  Pear. 

A  free  planting  of  the  cut-leaved  Bramble  is  pleasant  to 
see  on  the  outskirts  of  the  garden,  and  is  beautiful  in  leaf,  in 
flower,  and  in  fruit. 


A   SMALL  ORCHARD 

The  usefulness  of  a  small  orchard  when  judiciously  planted 
and  well  managed  can  scarcely  be  overestimated,  and  every 
country  house  should  possess  one.  To  those  who  have 
families  a  small  orchard  is  indeed  a  boon,  and  if  planted 
with  early,  mid-season,  and  late  varieties  of  Apples  and  Pears, 
the  happy  owner  is  enabled  to  supply  his  children  with  deli- 
cious apple  puddings  and  pies  for  eight  months  in  the  year. 
Moreover,  in  plentiful  seasons,  there  are  always  more  Apples, 
Pears,  and  Plums  than  can  be  used  at  home,  and  these,  if 
carefully  picked  and  packed,  can  be  profitably  disposed  of  at 
the  nearest  town.  Then  a  small  orchard  can  be  tilled  with  the 
spade  at  small  cost,  and  vegetables  and  choice  small  fruits, 


CULTIVATION   OF  FRUIT  481 

such  as  Strawberries,  Gooseberries,  and  Black  Currants,  may 
be  grown  between  the  rows  of  fruit  trees  for  several  years, 
and  thus  the  usefulness  of  the  orchard  is  increased.  In  small 
gardens,  even,  space  can  generally  be  found  for  a  small 
orchard,  whereas  a  large  one  is  quite  out  of  the  question. 
Of  course,  its  utility  will  largely  depend  upon  the  varieties  of 
fruits  grown  in  it,  and  the  kind  of  stocks  they  are  worked  on. 
Apple  trees  should  be  in  bush  form  and  be  grafted  on  the 
Paradise  stock,  and  Pears  on  the  Quince,  as  then  they  com- 
mence bearing  fruit  the  first  year  after  planting,  which  is  a 
great  advantage.  When  Apples  are  grafted  on  the  Crab  many 
years  often  elapse  before  they  commence  to  fruit.  It  is  also 
necessary,  in  order  to  realise  the  full  usefulness  of  a  small 
orchard,  that  only  a  small  number  of  early  Apples  be  planted, 
as  these  will  not  keep  long.  A  fair  number  of  mid-season 
sorts  may  be  allowed,  but  at  least  one-half  the  number  of 
Apple  trees  should  consist  of  late  keeping  sorts,  as  they  are 
the  most  useful  in  every  way.  Of  Pears  a  fair  number  of 
trees  of  Swan's  Egg,  Louise  Bonne  of  Jersey,  and  Doyenne" 
du  Cornice  may  be  planted ;  but  stewing  Pears  are  the  most 
useful,  and  they  will  keep  until  May.  Few  fruit  preparations 
are  more  delicious  than  a  dish  of  Catillac,  Vicar  of  Winkfield, 
or  Suffolk  Orange,  and  children  enjoy  the  wholesome  meal. 
The  best  way  to  stew  them  is  to  peel  and  put  them  into  an 
earthen  jar  in  a  syrup,  seal  the  jar,  and  place  them  in  a  steady 
oven  until  soft  and  brown. 

As  already  stated,  small  fruits  and  small  vegetables  may  be 
grown  between  the  fruit  trees  for  several  years,  and  what  is 
more  useful  in  the  household  than  Strawberries,  Gooseberries, 
and  Currants,  or  a  good  supply  of  wholesome  vegetables. 
The  best  trees  to  plant  round  an  orchard  for  shelter  are 
Damsons,  Bullaces,  and  Nuts.  Plant  a  Filbert  or  Cobnut 
between  every  Damson  and  Bullace,  and  in  two  years  there 
will  be  a  perfect  hedge.  Bullaces  and  Damsons  being  very 
hardy  invariably  bear  good  crops  of  fruit,  and  they  make 
delicious  puddings  and  pies ;  and  Wine  Nuts  are  quite  as 
useful  too. 

FRUIT  TREE  CULTURE  IN  POTS 

General. — It  cannot  be  said  that  fruit  tree  culture  in  pots 
is  a  new  system  by  any  means,  nevertheless  it  has  not  be- 
come general.  It  has  oftentimes  been  demonstrated  in  a 
most  practical  manner  by  Messrs.  Rivers  &  Son,  and  may  at 
any  time  be  seen  in  full  operation  at  their  nurseries.  Other 

2  H 


482  GARDENING   FOR    BEGINNERS 

trade  growers  have  also  taken  up  this  mode  of  culture,  so 
that  now  plenty  of  pot-grown  trees  may  be  had.  Continental 
growers  also  adopt  this  system,  and  that  with  equally  marked 
success.  Possibly  this  departure  from  the  usual  methods  was 
not  so  well  understood  a  few  years  back  as  it  is  at  the  present 
time  ;  hence  failures  were  more  common  no  doubt.  Failures 
will  occur  if  ordinary  precautions  be  not  taken ;  thus,  for  in- 
stance, it  is  unreasonable  to  suppose  that  trees  in  pots  can  be 
successfully  grown  under  the  shade  of  other  trees,  i.e.  trained 
ones,  or  in  houses  that  are  not  supplied  with  a  reasonable 
amount  of  ventilation.  The  system  is  applicable  either  for 
forcing  or  for  cultivation  in  absolutely  cold  houses.  The  idea 
has  existed  that  the  trees  in  pots  are  not  long  lived ;  this  is 
quite  a  mistake,  and  in  proof  of  which  one  has  but  to  inspect 
the  large  specimens  at  Sawbridgeworth,  some  of  which  are  a 
quarter  of  a  century  or  more  in  point  of  age.  Canker,  which 
in  some  instances  is  so  destructive,  does  not  disturb  pot  trees. 
As  regards  insect  pests,  the  balance  again  is  in  favour  of 
this  system.  Where  early  forcing  is  practised,  it  is  possible 
to  take  two  crops  at  least  from  the  same  houses,  with,  in  some 
cases,  a  partial  crop  of  something  else  in  addition.  Thus, 
after  early  forced  Peaches  and  Nectarines,  Melons  can  follow, 
and  pot  Figs  after  the  Melons.  After  pot  Cherries  Plums 
and  other  fruits  not  forced  make  a  succession,  these  being 
cleared  off  in  time  to  house  Chrysanthemums.  These  are 
only  a  few  instances ;  other  crops  will  suggest  themselves, 
such,  for  instance,  as  pot  Strawberries  upon  shelves. 

Houses. — The  best  plan  of  house  for  pot  fruits  is  the  span 
roof  beyond  any  doubt,  abundant  means  of  ventilation  being 
provided.  Houses  of  elaborate  or  expensive  construction 
are  totally  unnecessary,  in  fact,  they  are  a  waste  of  money. 
The  heating  should  be  sufficiently  provided  for  where  forcing 
is  carried  out,  so  that  no  undue  degree  of  heat  has  to  be 
maintained  in  the  pipes.  Rather  than  have  houses  of  large 
dimensions,  give  preference  to  those  of  moderate  size.  All 
the  light  possible  should  be  secured  by  using  large  panes 
of  glass — say  20  inches  by  15  inches,  which  is  an  easily  pro- 
cured stock  size.  No  staging  whatever  is  required  beyond 
shelves  for  such  as  Strawberries  in  pots.  For  the  floor  either 
gravel  or  coal  ashes  form  a  good  bottom,  one  object  being  to 
exclude  worms. 

The  Trees. — Autumn  is  the  best  season  of  the  year  for 
making  a  start,  by  forming,  or  adding  to,  a  collection  of 
pot  trees.  The  best  trees  to  choose  are  those  of  two,  three, 
or  four  years'  growth  •  these  should  have  been  grown  one 


CULTIVATION   OF   FRUIT  483 

year  at  least  in  pots,  such  being  more  amenable  to  treatment 
the  following  season.  Peaches  and  Nectarines  are  much 
better  if  cultivated  in  pots  from  the  bud  stage  onwards  than 
when  allowed  to  make  one  season's  growth,  and  that  often  a 
too  luxuriant  one,  in  the  open  quarters  of  nursery  grounds. 
All  pot  trees  should  be  bristling  with  flower  buds  when  pur- 
chased in  the  autumn  season  of  the  year,  if  they  are  not  so 
the  management  is  at  fault  rather  than  any  peculiarity  of  the 
trees  themselves.  As  a  rule  the  pots  of  newly-purchased 
trees  should  not  exceed  10  inches  in  diameter,  unless  trees  of 
extra  size  are  desired. 

Potting. — The  question  is  often  asked — Is  it  necessary  or 
expedient  to  pot  the  trees  annually  ?  The  answer  is  Yes,  by 
all  means  do  it  in  every  instance.  It  is  a  popular  delusion, 
as  well  as  a  decided  source  of  failure,  to  omit  this  work  every 
autumn.  The  annual  repotting  is  productive  of  fine  fibrous 
roots  which  are  the  essence  of  fertility.  If  not  so  treated  the 
soil  before  the  second  year  has  expired  will  become  utterly 
exhausted,  whilst  the  requirements  in  the  way  of  watering 
are  increased.  It  must  not  be  inferred  from  this  that  larger 
pots  are  recommended  every  autumn.  A  larger  size  of  pot 
once  in  three  years  is  ample,  as  a  rule,  for  the  trees.  On  no 
account  should  the  trees  be  put  into  larger  pots  without  first 
having  reduced  the  balls,  in  a  more  moderate  degree,  how- 
ever, than  when  similar  sizes  of  pots  are  again  to  be  used. 
In  the  latter  instances  a  sufficient  reduction  must  be  made  to 
ensure  a  good  amount  of  fresh  soil — such,  for  instance,  as 
will  allow  of  the  fingers  being  passed  freely  around  and 
between  the  balls  and  the  pots.  Firm  potting  is  absolutely 
essential  both  in  order  to  prevent  the  water  percolating 
through  the  new  soil  rather  than  the  old  balls,  and  in  order 
to  foster  fibrous  root  action.  In  order  to  do  this  work  well 
pot  rammers  must  be  used.  In  reducing  the  balls  take  away 
the  lower  portion  as  well  as  the  upper,  and  in  repotting  allow 
sufficient  room  for  watering  and  top-dressing.  The  best  tool 
with  which  to  reduce  the  balls  is  a  small  claw-like  instrument 
about  the  length  of  a  wall  hammer.  This  is  easily  made.  If 
any  roots  show  signs  of  over-luxuriance,  it  is  advisable  to  cut 
them  off  clean  with  a  knife  rather  than  break  them  away. 
Should  there  be  the  slightest  tendency  towards  being  dry  at 
the  roots  the  ball  should  be  well  soaked  in  a  tub  of  water. 
After  potting,  those  trees  that  are  intended  for  forcing  can 
either  be  stood  again  in  an  open,  sunny  position  if  the 
weather  be  fine,  or  taken  under  glass  if  there  be  room  to 
spare.  It  is  certainly  advisable  to  place  the  earliest  forced 


484  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

trees  under  glass  early  in  October,  or,  at  any  rate,  before  any 
heavy  rainfall  takes  place.  When  taken  under  glass  they  may 
be  stood  almost  pot  to  pot.  One  thorough  soaking  of  water 
after  potting  will  last  for  a  long  time,  but  syringing  is  recom- 
mended once  or  twice  a  day  when  it  is  sunny  and  warm 
weather.  It  is  better  to  get  the  potting  under  hand  before 
all  the  leaves  have  fallen.  Guard  as  much  as  possible  at 
all  times  against  worms  getting  into  the  pots.  For  the  pot- 
ting the  best  loam  obtainable  should  be  used  ;  that  having 
a  tendency  to  be  calcareous  is  the  most  suitable.  A  tough 
fibrous  loam  that  will  not  become  close  and  adhesive  should 
have  the  preference.  In  addition  some  lime  rubble,  such 
as  that  from  old  buildings,  should  be  added  in  the  proportion 
of  about  one  barrowful  to  a  cartload  of  loam  and  twice  that 
amount  of  manure,  such,  for  instance,  as  that  taken  from 
an  old  Melon  bed  ;  the  manure  from  the  stable  direct  will 
also  answer  after  repeated  turnings.  It  is  hardly  desirable 
to  use  any  artificial  manure  at  this  juncture  ;  if  any  be  used 
let  it  be  bone-meal,  which  will  supply  all  that  is  needed  until 
stoning  takes  place. 

Pruning,  &c> — A  slight  amount  of  pruning  may  be  done  at 
the  time  of  potting,  but  it  should  only  be  superfluous  lateral 
growth.  A  better  time  on  the  whole  is  at  the  starting  period, 
but  even  then  it  is  not  advisable  to  prune  as  in  the  case  of 
trained  trees.  It  is  a  safer  plan  to  prune  after  the  fruit  is  set 
and  when  one  can  see  what  the  crop  is  likely  to  be,  say  when 
the  fruits  are  about  the  size  of  nuts.  No  disbudding  what- 
ever is  advised  for  pot  trees,  the  spring  pruning  at  various 
periods  during  growth  supplying  all  that  is  needful.  Pinch- 
ing the  leading  shoots  where  such  are  seen  to  monopolise  too 
much  sap  is  quite  necessary,  and  this  may  have  to  be  done 
repeatedly.  Only  sufficient  wood  need  be  retained  to  provide 
for  the  following  season  ;  to  grow  superfluous  shoots  and  then 
have  to  cut  them  away  is  misdirected  energy.  Thinning  of  the 
fruits  follows  as  in  the  case  of  trained  trees,  for  young,  newly 
purchased  trees  in  the  pots  named  ought  not  to  carry  more 
than  eight  to  ten  fruits,  or  a  dozen  if  the  trees  be  extra  strong. 
When  the  fruit  is  swelling  freely  liquid  manure,  made  from 
stable  manure  with  a  small  amount  of  soot,  forms  a  good 
stimulant  alternately  with  a  small  pinch  of  an  artificial 
manure  in  which  there  is  a  good  percentage  of  phosphates, 
to  aid  in  the  proper  development  of  the  stone.  Top-dressing 
or  mulching  with  decomposed  manure  and  loam  is  a  great 
aid  when  the  fruit  is  growing  freely.  Temperatures  are  the 
same  as  in  the  case  of  trained  trees,  so  also  the  treatment  for 


CULTIVATION   OF   FRUIT  485 

insect  pests,  bearing  in  mind  that  a  thorough  fumigation  at 
the  time  of  starting  is  most  valuable.  When  the  trees  are 
hardened  off  after  fruiting  they  should  be  plunged  to  the 
rims  in  an  open  position  until  the  time  of  potting  comes 
round  again,  and  not  overcrowded. 

Varieties  recommended  for  pot  culture  (the  best  six  of 
each) :  Peaches — Alexander  and  Hale's  Early  for  early  forcing 
(both  are  rather  given  to  drop  their  buds),  Early  Grosse 
Mignonne,  Dr.  Hogg,  Sea  Eagle,  and  the  Nectarine  Peach. 
Nectarines — Cardinal,  Early  Rivers,  Lord  Napier,  Pine  Apple, 
Victoria,  and  Albert  Victor.  Plums— Early  Prolific,  Jeffer- 
son, Early  Transparent,  Golden  Transparent,  Coe's  Golden 
Drop,  and  Reine  Claude  de  Bavay.  Cherries — Bigarreau  de 
Schreken,  Early  Rivers,  Frogmore  Early  Bigarreau,  Governor 
Wood,  and  Belle  d'Orleans  (include  a  May  Duke  for  pollen 
purposes).  Pears — Fondante  d'Automne,  Conference,  Doy- 
enne du  Cornice,  Pitmaston  Duchess,  Marie  Louise,  and 
Durondeau.  Apples — Ribston  Pippin,  Cox's  Orange  Pippin, 
Washington,  King  of  Tompkin's  County,  Mabbot's  Pearmain, 
and  Allington  Pippin. 

THE   LOGANBERRY 

The  Loganberry  is  important  from  a  commercial  point 
of  view,  as  it  is  doubtless  one  of  the  most  useful  fruits  we 
have  for  preserves  and  compotes,  and,  in  addition,  is  re- 
markably prolific.  The  fruits  are  produced  in  clusters,  and 
closely  resemble  a  large  Raspberry  as  regards  size,  but  are 
firmer.  The  Loganberry  is  said  to  be  the  result  of  a  cross 
between  the  Blackberry  and  the  Raspberry,  and  the  growths 
more  resemble  the  last  named.  The  fruits  when  ripe  are 
firmer  than  those  of  a  Blackberry,  and  have  a  more  acid 
flavour.  The  latter  point  is  a  great  gain,  as  it  is  so  much 
better  for  preserves.  We  are  not  all  sure  that  everyone 
would  call  it  a  good  dessert  fruit  owing  to  its  brisk  flavour. 
It  is  of  rampant  growth,  and  all  the  old  wood,  and  the 
weakest  of  the  new,  should  be  cut  out  as  advised  for  Rasp- 
berries. It  is  an  American  introduction,  and  was  named  the 
Logan  after  the  raiser,  Judge  Logan. 

Besides  the  Loganberry  there  are  several  Blackberries 
that  deserve  a  note.  Mr.  Bunyard  in  the  Fruit  Garden  writes 
as  follows  about  the  Blackberries  and  allied  fruits  :  "  These 
useful  fruits  give  variety  to  the  year's  supply,  and  are  valuable 
in  the  making  of  jam,  jelly,  and  tarts.  They  require  but  little 
care  in  cultivation  and  grow  freely  in  any  ordinary  soil.  The 
best  results  are  obtained  from  plants  in  rows  6  feet  apart, 


486  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

the  shoots  being  trained  right  and  left,  espalier  style.  The 
fruiting  shoots  can  then  be  removed  every  season,  and  fresh 
sturdy  growths  laid  in  as  they  are  produced  for  the  following 
year's  crop  ;  some  peg  them  down  and  cut  off  the  ends  after 
August  to  strengthen  the  lower  buds,  which  next  year  pro- 
duce strong  flowering  branches.  All  the  pruning  necessary 
is  to  cut  away  the  old  fruiting  wood  yearly,  as  with  Rasp- 
berries. When  established,  all  grow  strongly,  and  the  plants 
can  be  placed  from  6  to  10  feet  apart.  The  American  sorts, 
as  a  rule,  flower  satisfactorily,  but  only  fruit  freely  in  a  few 
positions,  or  in  very  favourable  positions."  The  Parsley-leaved 
Blackberry  (Rubus  laciniatus)  is  well  spoken  of ;  it  is  the  most 
beautiful  of  the  Brambles  for  its  leafage  and  fruit.  It  is  de- 
scribed as  the  best  of  the  Blackberries  for  general  culture. 
The  fruit  is  very  large,  freely  produced,  and  the  foliage  is 
handsome,  the  stems  being  of  a  rich  colour  also,  but  the 
flavour  of  the  fruit  is  not  equal  to  that  of  the  wild  Blackberry. 
Wilson  Junior  is  considered  one  of  the  best  large  American 
black  sorts,  and  grows  very  freely.  The  Lowberry  is  a  large 
black-fruited  Bramble  which  crops  well  in  sheltered  positions. 
It  needs  the  same  treatment  and  pruning  as  the  Loganberry. 
The  Newberry  is  a  fine  new  fruit  of  red  colour  and  sweet 
flavour ;  and  the  Laxtonberry  is  also  a  useful  new  kind. 
The  treatment  advised  for  Loganberries  applies  to  both. 

THE   APRICOT 

This  fruit  is  largely  planted  against  walls  with  a  southern 
or  western  aspect,  and  is  also  grown  under  glass,  often  in 
pots.  It  needs  the  same  soil  and  much  the  same  treatment  as 
Peaches  and  Nectarines,  but  instead  of  disbudding  the  shoots, 
pinching  back  of  laterals  during  the  summer  should  be  adopted. 
As  the  Apricot  flowers  very  early,  usually  in  February,  it  is 
necessary  to  protect  outdoor  trees  at  that  time  with  a  double 
thickness  of  fish  netting  or  some  tiffany.  When  fruit  is 
ripening  under  glass  keep  a  rather  drier  atmosphere  than  is 
recommended  for  Peaches  and  Nectarines. 

THE   MULBERRY 

This  fruit  is  not  planted  anything  like  so  extensively  as  it 
was  years  ago.  The  tree  likes  a  deep,  well-drained  and  rather 
moist  soil,  and  beyond  an  occasional  thinning  of  growths  does 
not  subsequently  call  for  any  special  attention.  It  ought  not 
to  be  planted  in  very  small  gardens,  as  it  eventually  forms  a 
large  and  handsome  tree. 


INSECT    PESTS   AND    WAYS   TO 
DESTROY  THEM 


HOWEVER  carefully  and  judiciously  we  may  cultivate  our  gardens  by 
growing  the  plants  most  suitable  for  the  soil,  and  placing  them  in  the 
most  favourable  situation  for  their  growth,  we  still  have  to  reckon 
with  a  host  of  insect  pests  that  are  almost  certain  to  infest  them. 
In  spite  of  all  our  care,  there  is  no  doubt  but  that  plants  grown  in 
favourable  circumstances  and  in  robust  health  are  less  liable  to  the 
attacks  of  insects  and  fungi  than  those  which  are  unhealthy  and  not 
in  a  vigorous  condition,  but  still  they  are  liable  to  be  attacked.  It  is 
impossible  on  the  present  occasion  to  describe  all  the  various  insects 
that  injure  plants ;  but  that  is  not  really  necessary,  as  the  great  thing 
from  the  gardener's  point  of  view  is  to  know  how  to  destroy  them, 
and  many  may  be  dealt  with  by  the  same  means.  It  is  important  to 
realise  that  an  insect  may  be  found  in  four  different  states  or  condi- 
tions, namely,  as  an  egg,  a  grub  or  caterpillar,  a  chrysalis,  and  as  a 
perfect  insect  capable  of  propagating  its  species.  It  is  true  that  some 
insects  are  never  grubs  or  caterpillars,  or  become  chrysalides,  for  at  simi- 
lar periods  of  their  life-history  they  more  or  less  resemble  their  parents ; 
still  the  change  from  one  state  to  another  is  well  marked,  and  the  four 
different  conditions  are  assumed  (of  course,  there  is  no  rule  without 
an  exception).  It  is  important  to  bear  this  in  mind,  for  sometimes, 
though  an  insect  is  quite  harmless  in  one  state,  it  is  very  destructive 
in  another,  and  it  may  be  that  it  is  easier  to  destroy  it  in  its  harmless 
condition  than  in  the  one  in  which  it  is  injurious.  Insects,  as  far  as 
their  powers  of  injuring  plants  are  concerned,  may  be  roughly  divided 
into  two  classes :  those  that  injure  the  plants  underground,  and  those 
that  attack  the  parts  of  the  plant  which  are  above  the  surface  of  the 
soil.  The  former  are,  on  the  whole,  perhaps  the  most  injurious,  for 
they  attack  a  plant  at  a  very  vital  part,  namely,  the  root,  and  for 
obvious  reasons  the  first  intimation  of  their  presence  is  given  by  the 
plant  beginning  to  flag  or  droop,  or  show  some  signs  of  distress,  so  that 
the  plant  has  already  sustained  considerable  injury  before  we  know  that 
it  is  attacked ;  then  when  we  realise  that  a  certain  plant  is  infested  at 
its  roots  by  some  pest  we  cannot  in  most  cases  destroy  it  by  means  of 
an  insecticide,  as  a  large  quantity  would  have  to  be  used,  and  of  more 
than  ordinary  strength  (for  the  soil  acts  as  a  filter  to  a  great  extent), 
which  would  be  very  hurtful  to  the  plant  already  weakened  by  the 

injuries  to  its  roots.     So  that,  in  the  case  of  plants  grown  in  the  flower 

487 


488  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

garden,  probably  the  best  thing  to  do  is  to  bury  baits  near  the  plants 
to  attract  the  pests,  or  to  take  up  the  plants  and  carefully  pick  out 
the  insects  from  the  roots,  and  destroy  those  that  are  in  the  soil. 
Nearly  all  the  insects  that  feed  on  the  roots  of  plants  are  in  the  grub 
or  caterpillar  state.  There  are  a  few  exceptions,  one  or  two  species  of 
aphides  feeding  on  the  roots  of  plants.  It  is  often  stated  that  ants 
injure  the  roots  of  plants.  In  one  sense  this  is  quite  true,  as  they 
make  their  nests  among  them  at  times,  but  not  with  any  intent  of 
feeding  on  them,  or  injuring  them  in  any  way ;  but  when  they  find  a 
plant  infested  by  one  of  these  underground  aphides,  they  make  their 
nest  so  that  they  can  easily  obtain  the  sweet  matter  which  these,  like 
all  other  aphides,  secrete,  and  the  presence  of  the  ants  laying  bare 
some  of  the  roots,  and  the  interference  with  their  supply  of  moisture 
consequent  on  the  nest  surrounding  them,  is  naturally  very  harmful  to 
the  plant.  The  ants  in  this  respect  are  of  a  certain  amount  of  use,  as, 
when  one  of  their  nests  is  found  at  the  roots  of  the  plant,  it  is  an 
almost  sure  sign  that  the  latter  are  attacked  by  one  of  these  aphides, 
which  would  seriously  injure  the  plant  if  means  were  not  taken  to 
destroy  them.  Under  these  circumstances  the  plant  should  be  lifted 
out  of  the  ground,  and  its  roots  carefully  washed  so  as  to  free  them 
from  the  aphides,  and  the  hole  from  which  it  was  taken  filled  with 
boiling  water  so  as  to  kill  any  of  the  pests  which  might  be  in  the  soil. 
This  will  also  kill  the  ants  if  plenty  of  water  be  used  so  that  it 
thoroughly  fills  the  nest ;  boiling  water  is  a  most  useful  agent  in  kill- 
ing all  kinds  of  insects,  it  is  absolutely  sudden  death  to  them.  There 
are  a  great  number  of  different  kinds  of 

Grubs  and  Caterpillars  that  Feed  on  the  Roots  of  Plants.— The  former  may  be 
divided  into  two  kinds,  those  with  legs  and  those  without.  Those  that  have  legs  are  the 
grubs  of  beetles,  but  they  have  only  three  pairs  of  legs,  which  are  placed  near  the  head  ; 
the  caterpillars  that  may  be  found  at  the  roots  of  plants  have  eight  pairs,  so  they  may 
easily  be  distinguished  from  grubs.  Among  the  grubs  of  beetles,  perhaps  the  best 
known  are  the 

Wireworms,  whose  parents  are  the  long,  narrow,  dull-coloured  insects,  belonging  to 
the  family  Elateridse,  and  commonly  known  as  "skip-jack"  or  "click"  beetles,  which 
live  among  grass  and  weeds,  and  may  often  be  seen  on  the  flowers  of  "  cow  parsley  "  and 
other  plants  of  that  nature.  The  grubs  have  received  the  name  of  wireworms,  on 
account  of  their  resemblance  to  a  short  piece  of  copper  wire  ;  they  vary  in  size  according 
to  the  species,  but  the  largest  is  seldom  more  than  f-inch  long  ;  they  are  of  a  yellowish 
colour,  except  the  heads,  which  are  dark  brown,  and  the  three  pairs  of  legs,  which  are 
just  behind  the  head,  are  of  the  same  colour.  If  these  characteristics  are  borne  in  mind, 
it  is  impossible  to  mistake  any  other  insect  for  a  wireworm.  These  pests  may  be  trapped 
by  burying  small  slices  of  turnips,  mangolds,  carrots,  or  potatoes  in  the  ground  just 
below  the  surface  ;  if  a  small  wooden  skewer  be  thrust  into  each  they  will  be  more  easily 
handled,  and  their  position  in  the  soil  more  easily  seen.  Small  pieces  of  oilcake  are  also 
very  useful  as  traps,  even  if  only  placed  on  the  ground.  These  traps  should  be  examined 
every  morning.  When  ground  is  being  dug  that  is  infested  with  this  insect,  a  sharp  look- 
out should  be  kept  for  them  ;  though  small,  their  colour  soon  betrays  their  presence. 
The  grubs  of  the  "  common  cockchafer"  (Melolontha  vulgaris)  are  also  very  injurious 
to  the  roots  of  various  plants,  and  as  they  are  three  years  old  before  they  attain  their  full 
size,  each  grub  has  the  opportunity  of  doing  an  immense  amount  of  damage.  The 
grubs,  when  full-grown,  are  about  2  inches  long  and  almost  \  inch  in  diameter.  They 
are  nearly  white,  but  their  tails,  which  are  generally  curled  under  their  bodies  and  are  the 
thickest  part  of  the  grub,  are  bluish.  Practically  there  is  no  way  of  destroying  them 
except  turning  them  up  out  of  the  ground,  and  the  easiest  way  of  keeping  this  insect  in 
check  is  by  killing  the  cockchafers.  The  grubs  of  several  kinds  of  weevils  feed  on  the  roots 


INSECT   PESTS 


489 


of  plants,  but  unfortunately  they  cannot  be  caught  in  traps  as  the  wireworms  can,  and 
the  best  way  when  a  plant  is  attacked  is  to  take  it  up  and  pick  out  the  grubs  from  among 


FIG.  61. — Common  Cockchafer. 
i.  Cockchafer.     2.  Grub;     3.  Chrysalis. 


the  roots.      The  caterpillars  of  the  "  ghost "  and  "  swift  moths  "  (Hepialus  humuli  and 
H.  lupulinus]  attack  the  roots  of  various  plants,  and  those  of  the  "  dart  moth  "  (Agrostis 


FIG.  62. — Daddy-long-legs  or  Crane  fly. 

I.  Male  Daddy-long-legs.     2.  Female  Daddy-long-legs.     3.  Eggs. 
4.  Grub.     5.  Chrysalis. 

segetum],  and  some  others,  on  the  roots  and  also  on  the  collars  of  the  plants.    They  hide 
under  stones,  clods,  &c.,  or  in  cracks  of  the  ground  during  the  day.     The  other  division, 


490  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

Grubs  with  no  Legs,  are  all  the  grubs  of  flies.  Many  only  feed  on  decaying  vege- 
table matter,  but  a  large  number  feed  on  the  roots  of  various  plants.  Those  of  the 
common  daddy-long-legs  (Tipula  oleracea],  often  known  as  "  Leather  Jacket,"  are 
particularly  injurious.  When  full  grown  they  are  about  i^  inch  in  length,  and  as 
thick  as  a  small  quill.  They  are  of  a  dull  slaty  brown  colour,  and  though  without  legs 
are  able  to  move  about  with  considerable  rapidity.  They  may  be  caught  by  the  same  kind 
of  traps  as  the  wireworms  (but  oilcake  is  of  no  use  in  their  case),  and  also  by  laying  pieces 
of  board,  slates,  tiles,  bricks,  or  pieces  of  turf  on  the  ground,  as  they  will  creep  under  such 
things  for  shelter  during  the  day.  The  traps  should  be  examined  every  morning.  The 
grubs  of  the  cabbage-fly  attack  the  roots  of  Cabbages  and  other  plants  of  that  nature. 
They  are  small  grubs  and  are  not  more  than  one-third  of  an  inch  in  length.  They  cannot 
be  trapped.  The  plants  that  are  attacked  should  be  taken  up  with  a  spud  so  as  to  take 
away  the  soil  just  round  the  roots,  and  burnt.  The  holes  made  by  their  removal  should 
be  filled  with  lime  or  soot  so  as  to  kill  any  grubs  that  may  be  left  in  the  soil.  Plants  that 
are  only  slightly  injured  may  sometimes  be  saved  by  watering  them  two  or  three  times 
with  one  part  of  ammoniacal  liquor  from  the  gasworks  to  two  of  water.  Onions  and 
Carrots  are  also  attacked  by  the  grubs  of  flies  (Anthomyia  ceparum  and  Psila  roses). 
The  best  method  of  destroying  these  pests  is  by  pulling  up  and  burning  the  infested 
roots.  To  turn  now  to  the 

Insects  that  Attack  Plants  Above  Ground. — Probably  the  different  kinds  of 
aphides  or  plant  lice,  of  which  the  common  green-fly  perhaps  is  the  best  known 
species,  are  the  most  troublesome,  for  they  infest  so  many  different  kinds  of  plants  and 
increase  and  multiply  at  times  with  such  remarkable  rapidity  that  it  seems  almost  im- 
possible to  keep  them  in  check.  There  are  a  large  number  of  species,  but  they  all  injure 
plants  in  the  same  way,  by  drawing  off  the  juices  through  their  long  probosces,  and  by 
covering  the  leaves  with  a  sweet  sticky  secretion  commonly  known  as  honey-dew,  which 
drops  on  and  clogs  the  pores  of  the  leaves,  &c. ,  that  may  be  beneath  them.  One  of  the 
chief  things  to  be  remembered  in  their  destruction  is  to  take  some  steps  in  that  way  as 
soon  as  any  are  noticed,  and  not  to  think  that  a  few  cannot  do  much  harm  and  so  let  them 
be.  In  suitable  weather  they  will  increase,  so  that  in  a  few  days  the  plant  will  be 
smothered  with  them.  The  best  remedies  for  plants  grown  in  the  open  air  are  spraying 
with  paraffin  emulsion  or  quassia  extract  (see  Insecticides),  or  some  other  insecticide  con- 
taining soft  soap,  such  as  "Paranaph"  or  "Abol,"  dusting  the  plants  with  powdered 
tobacco,  or  snuff,  or  in  some  cases  dipping  the  end  of  the  shoots  into  tobacco  water  or 
some  other  liquid  insecticide.  Under  glass  plants  should  be  fumigated  with  tobacco 
smoke,  or  strong  tobacco  water  should  be  vaporised  over  a  small  stove. 

"  American  Blight "  (Schizoneura  lanigera),  if  only  existing  in  small  patches  on  a  tree, 
may  be  killed  by  dipping  a  camel's-hair  brush  in  methylated  spirit  and  thoroughly 
wetting  them  with  it ;  but  if  the  attack  is  extensive  the  infested  parts  should  be  well 
scrubbed  with  a  stiff  brush  and  one  of  the  soapy  solutions  just  mentioned  and  the  mixture 
thoroughly  worked  into  all  the  cracks,  &c. ,  in  the  bark.  Or  the  tree  should  be  sprayed 
with  a  caustic  wash  in  the  course  of  the  winter  (see  Insecticides).  The  caterpillars  of 
butterflies  and  moths  and  the  grubs  of  certain  saw-flies  that  injure  plants  in  the  same 
manner  are  best  picked  off  by  hand  unless  they  are  in  such  numbers  that  it  is  worth  while 
to  syringe  the  plant  with  some  insecticide.  The  grubs  of  the  Currant  saw-fly  (Nematus 
ribesii]  and  the  Pear  saw-fly  (Eriocampa  adumbrata),  when  full  grown,  drop  to  the  ground 
and  become  chrysalides  in  the  soil,  about  3  inches  below  the  surface.  If  the  ground 
below  the  trees  to  that  depth  is  removed  and  burnt,  or  buried  not  less  than'a  foot  deep,  the 
insects  will  be  destroyed.  When  leaves  are  rolled  up  by  caterpillars,  as  rose  leaves  often 
are,  a  close  made  basket  or  a  box  should  be  held  under  them  while  they  are  cut  off,  or  the 
leaves  may  be  pinched  so  as  to  kill  the  occupant,  if  care  be  taken  that  it  does  not  drop  out 
before  the  finger  and  thumb  meet,  as  is  often  the  case. 

Certain  small — 

Caterpillars  and  Grubs  live  inside  the  leaves  between  the  skins,  such  as  the  grub  of 
the  Marguerite  daisy  fly  (Phytomyza  affinis),  which  infest  the  leaves  of  that  plant  and 


live  within  the  leaves  of  the  plant  that  they  are  named  after.  The  only  way 
destroying  them  is  to  pinch  the  leaf  at  the  part  where  the  grub  is,  or  to  pierce  the  leaf 
with  a  pin  or  needle  so  as  to  stab  the  grub.  If  a  leaf  is  very  badly  attacked,  it  should  be 
cut  off  and  burnt.  The  leaves  of  Lilacs  and  Laburnums  are  sometimes  very  much  in- 
jured by  the  caterpillars  of  small  moths  (Gracillaria  syringella  and  Cemiostoma  labur- 
niello]  that  feed  inside  the  leaves.  The  caterpillars  of  the  goat  moth  (Cossus  ligniperda] 
and  the  wood  leopard  rnoth  (Zeuzera  cesculi)  sometimes  attack  our  fruit  trees,  and  cause 
much  injury  to  them  by  boring  long  galleries  in  their  stems.  They  are  best  destroyed  by 
pushing  a  sharp-pointed  wire  into  the  hole  until  the  insect  is  reached,  or  by  injecting 


INSECT   PESTS 


49 1 


paraffin  oil  or  tobacco  water  into  the  gallery  by  means  of  a  small  syringe  with  a  fine 
nozzle,  and  immediately  closing  the  hole  with  a  plug  of  well-kneaded  clay ;  or  a  piece  of 
tow  soaked  in  tar  or  paraffin  oil  may  be  pushed  as  far  as  possible  into  the  tunnel,  and 
the  opening  closed  with  clay  so  as  to  keep  the  smell  in  as  much  as  possible.  Currant 
bushes  are  sometimes  attacked  by  the  caterpillars  of  the  Currant  clear-wing  moth  (Sesia 
tipuliformis) ,  which  bore  into  the  branches  and  shoots  of  Currant  bushes,  causing  the 
death  of  the  branch.  The  best  way  to  deal  with  this  insect  is  to  cut  off  the  shoot  below 
where  the  caterpillar  is  and  burn  it,  as  the  branch  would  die  in  any  case.  Among  the 
insects  that  are  injurious  in  their  perfect  state  perhaps  the  various  kinds  of  weevils  are 
the  most  troublesome.  The  Pea  and  Bean  weevils  (Sitones  lineatus]  are  often  very  de- 
structive to  our  Pea  and  Bean  crops  ;  they  injure  the  young  plants  by  eating  the  leaves, 
gnawing  large  notches  in  them.  They  are  difficult  pests  to  deal  with,  for  they  only  feed 


FIG.  63. — American  Blight  in  various  stages.    — | —  signifies  natural  size, 
i.  The  fly.     2.  The  insect.     3.  Showing  its  effect  upon  a  fruit-tree  shoot. 


at  night,  and  are  so  much  the  colour  of  the  soil  that  it  is  almost  impossible  to  find  them 
when  they  drop  off  the  plants,  which  they  do  at  the  least  alarm.  Dusting  the  leaves 
when  they  are  wet  with  powdered  lime,  or  soot,  or  gas-lime  and  soot  mixed  together,  or 
spraying  with  paraffin  emulsion  is  useful  in  preventing  the  weevils  from  attacking  the 
leaves.  Sand  soaked  in  paraffin  oil  strewed  on  each  side  of  the  rows  is  also  useful ;  the 
young  plants  should  be  pushed  into  rapid  growth  as  quickly  as  possible.  The  well- 
known  grubs  in  Nuts  are  the  progeny  of  the  Nut  weevil  (Balaninus  nucum)  ;  the  Black 
Vine  weevil  (Otiorhyncus  sulcatus),  and  its  brother,  the  clay-coloured  weevil  (O.  picipes), 
are  both  very  injurious  to  the  foliage  of  plants  in  greenhouses,  particularly  to  Vines, 
Peaches,  Roses,  Ferns,  and  many  plants  grown  for  their  foliage,  and  their  grubs  feed  on 
the  roots  of  these  plants.  Out  of  doors  they  injure  Raspberry  bushes  by  feeding  on  the 
leaves,  and  by  eating  right  through  the  young  shoots.  These  beetles  only  feed  at  night, 
and,  like  the  Pea  weevils,  fall  to  the  ground  on  being  in  any  way  disturbed  ;  they  may  be 
caught  in  houses  by  laying  white  sheets  under  the  plants  before  it  is  dark,  and  afterwards 
throwing  a  bright  light  on  them  and  shaking  or  tapping  them.  Out  of  doors  an  open 


492 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


FIG.  64. — Thrips. 

i  and  2.  Immature  Thrips.     3  and  4.  Mature  Thrips. 
8  and  9.  Other  species  of  Thrips. 


umbrella  or  a  piece  of  board  freshly  tarred  or  painted,  so  as  to  be  sticky,  should  be  held 
so  that  the  weevils  can  be  shaken  on  to  them.  The  Black  Vine  weevil  is  about  $  inch 
in  length,  and  is  of  a  dark  brown  colour  or  black  colour  ;  the  other  species  is  somewhat 
smaller,  and  is  of  a  pale  brown  colour.  The  Apple  blossom  weevil  (Anthonomus 

pomorutri)  is  a  much  smaller 
species  ;  it  lays  its  eggs  in  the 
opening  flower-buds  of  the 
Apple,  which  soon  hatch,  and 
the  grubs  feed  on  the  flowers, 
at  times  completely  ruining 
the  crop.  When  the  weevils 
are  seen  on  the  trees  they  may 
be  shaken  down  on  to  cloths 
or  something  sticky.  Thrips 
(Thrips  adonidum,  and  other 
species)  is  an  insect  that  is 
very  annoying  in  greenhouses, 
where  it  may  be  killed  by  the 
same  means  as  recommended 
in  the  case  of  green-fly  or 
aphides.  Out  of  doors  it 
seldom  does  much  harm,  but 
Carnations,  Dahlias,  Phloxes, 
and  some  other  plants  are  at 
times  injured  by  them.  To 
consider  now  some — 

Garden  Pests  that  are  not 
really  Insects. —  The  mites 
stand  first,  among  them  the  red  spider  (Tetranychus  tellarius]  is  the  best  known.  As  a 
rule,  the  plants  that  suffer  most  from  them  are  too  dry  at  the  root ;  and  in  greenhouses  the 
want  of  proper  ventilation  is  generally  the  cause.  The  red  spider  delights  in  warmth,  dry- 
ness,  and  a  still  atmosphere.  When  a  plant  is  infested  by  them  it  should  be  syringed  with 
paraffin  emulsion :  to  every  5  gallons  add  i  oz.  of  sulphide  of  potassium  ;  or,  with  £  Ib.  of 
flowers  of  sulphur,  i  Ib.  of  fresh  lime,  boiled  in  2  gallons  of  water,  then  add  f  Ib.  of  soft 
soap,  and  when  all  is  well  mixed  2  gallons  more  water.  Another  very  injurious  mite 
is  the  Currant  mite  (Phytoptus  ribis),  which  infests  the  buds  of  Black  Currants,  causing 
them  to  swell,  but  not  to  open  properly,  so  that  when  many  of  the  buds  on  a  shoot 
are  attacked  it  is  rendered  useless  to  the  plant.  The  best  remedy  is  to  pick  off  these 
buds  early  in  the  spring,  or  cut  off  the  entire  shoot,  and  burn  them.  Another  mite,  the 
bulb  mite  (Rhizo%lyphus  echinopus],  is  the  cause  of  much  injury  to  bulbs  at  times. 
They  may  usually  be  found  at 
the  base  of  the  bulbs  between 
the  scales,  or  among  the  roots 
where  they  join  the  bulb. 
Various  methods  have  been 
suggested  for  destroying  them, 
but  none  of  them  are  very  satis- 
factory, perhaps  soaking  them 
in  water  at  a  temperature  of 
120  degrees  or  125  degrees 
Fahr.  for  fifteen  or  twenty 
minutes  will  kill  them  ;  for,  if 
placed  in  water  at  115  degrees 
Fahr.  (away  from  the  bulb), 
they  will  die  within  five  minutes. 
The  snake  millipedes  (Julidce) 
are  often  mistaken  for  insects, 
but  there  should  be  no  difficulty 
in  recognising  them,  as  instead 
of  having  only  three  pairs  of 
legs  they  have  a  very  large 
number.  These  creatures  are  very  injurious  to  the  roots  of  plants,  and  are  difficult  to 
destroy  with  any  insecticide,  as  they  are  tough  and  horny.  A  strong  solution  of  salt  or 
nitrate  of  soda  will  kill  them  if  it  can  be  made  to  reach  them.  They  may  be  trapped 
by  means  of  slates,  tiles,  &c. ,  laid  about ;  they  move  very  slowly,  and  so  may  be  easily 
distinguished  from  the  centipedes  (Lithobiusforjicatus}>  which  they  somewhat  resemble. 


FIG.  65. — Snake  millipedes. 

Julus  londinensis.  2.  and  3.  Blanjulus  guttulatus 
(nat.  size  and  mag.).  4.  Julus  terrestris.  5.  Teller. 
6  and  7.  Polydesmus  complanatus  (nat.  size  and  mag.). 


INSECT   PESTS 


493 


These  are  very  useful  in  gardens,  and  run  with  great  rapidity.  Woodlice,  or  slaters 
(Onisid*),  as  they  are  sometimes  called,  are  often  very  troublesome  pests,  and  do  much 
mischief  in  greenhouses,  Melon-pits,  Mushroom-beds,  and  among  Peaches  and  Straw- 
berries. It  is  no  use  trying  to  kill  them  with  insecticides,  but  when  they  are  found,  as  is 
often  the  case,  in  regular  colonies  at  the  base  of  a  wall  just  below  the  surface  of  the  soil, 
they  may  be  killed  wholesale  by  pouring  boiling  water  over  them  ;  they  may  also  be 
trapped  under  slates,  bricks,  &c.,  and  in  small  bundles  of  dry  moss.  Toads  are  very 
useful  in  keeping  woodlice  and  many  other  night-feeding  pests  under. 

"Prevention  is  always  said  to  be  better  than  cure,"  and  this  is  very  true  in  the  case 
of  plants  likely  to  be  injured  by  insects,  and  fungi,  weeds,  stones,  rubbish,  &c. ,  which 
harbour  these  pests,  should  never  be  allowed  in  gardens,  even  in  out-of-the-way  corners, 
and  any  prunings  of  trees  or  refuse  of  a  crop  that  has  been  infested  by  any  pest  should  be 
burned  at  once.  Indeed,  the  old  time-honoured  rubbish  heap  should  be  turned  into  a 
bonfire  far  oftener  than  it  is,  for  even  when  its  contents  are  well  rotted  they  are  not  of 


FIG.  66.— Black  Currant  Gall  Mite. 

i.  Black  Currant  Gall  Mite  (magnified  400  times).     2.  Twig  of  Black  Currant  with 
healthy  buds.     3.  Twig  of  Black  Currant  with  infested  buds. 

much  value,  and  when  spread  over  the  ground  often  carry  pests  with  them,  and  the  ashes 
from  a  bonfire  that  has  not  been  allowed  to  burn  too  rapidly  are  of  considerable  value. 
When  garden  ground  is  being  dug  a  sharp  lookout  should  be  kept  for  any  chrysalides 
that  may  be  turned  up,  particularly  if  the  last  crop  was  attacked  by  caterpillars. 

Leaf-Curl  in  Peaches  and  Nectarines.— Beginners  are  generally  puzzled  about  this 
characteristic  of  the  Peach  and  Nectarine.  The  injury  it  causes  is  generally  attributed  to 
cold  winds  or  draughts  of  some  sort.  No  doubt  certain  conditions  of  the  weather  are 
more  favourable  to  the  growth  of  this  fungus  than  others,  a  sudden  fall  in  the  temperature 
after  mild  weather,  during  which  the  leaves  have  opened,  being  particularly  liable  to 
cause  an  attack.  Still,  if  this  fungus  was  not  present  in  the  tissues  of  the  tree,  no  atmos- 
pheric conditions  would  cause  the  disease.  Peach  leaves  are  often  attacked  by  aphides, 
which  cause  the  leaves  to  curl  more  or  less,  and  the  two  kinds  of  attack  are  sometimes 
mistaken  for  the  same,  but  the  difference  as  a  rule  is  easily  detected.  The  "curl"  is 
rather  of  a  different  nature ;  it  has  not  the  same  puckered  appearance,  and  though  in 
both  cases  the  diseased  part  of  the  leaf  may  turn  red  at  last  if  caused  by  aphides,  it  never 
assumes  the  pale  sickly  green  colour  that  it  does  from  being  infested  by  the  fungus,  nor 
has  it  the  almost  velvety  appearance.  It  happens  not  infrequently  that  a  tree  may  be 


494  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

infested  by  both  pests,  for  insects  often  seem  to  prefer  plants  that  are  not  in  very  robust 
health  to  those  that  are.  The  leaf-curl  fungus  attacks  Peaches,  Nectarines,  and  Almonds. 
How  it  gains  access  to  the  tissues  of  its  host  is  not  at  present  very  certain,  but  it  probably 
does  so  through  the  leaves.  Having  once  established  itself  in  a  tree,  there  is  no  means  of 
eradicating  it  except  by  cutting  off  the  parts  infested  by  it.  The  fungus  lives  throughout 
the  year  in  the  shoots  and  smaller  branches,  pushing  its  growth  into  the  young  leaves  as 
they  are  opening,  which  causes  a  very  abnormal  growth  of  their  tissues.  The  cells  in  the 
parts  of  the  leaves  between  the  veins  growing  much  more  rapidly  than  the  veins,  causes  the 
leaves  to  become  crumpled.  These  portions  of  the  leaves  are  also  much  thicker  than  the 
other,  and  eventually  the  diseased  parts  become  covered  with  a  delicate  bloom,  the  result 
of  the  spore-bearing  part  of  the  fungus  being  pushed  through  the  surface  of  the  leaf  so 
that  the  spores  can  escape.  The  little  spore-bearing  cases  are  technically  known  as 
"  asci,"  and  cover  the  surface  of  the  diseased  part  of  the  leaf.  Each  ascus  or  case  con- 
tains at  first  only  eight  spores,  but  these  increase  by  budding  until  the  case  is  full.  When 
ripe  the  spores  are  liberated  and  are  carried  about  by  the  air,  infecting  any  leaves  they 
may  meet  with. 

As  to  the  best  way  of  dealing  with  this  pest,  probably  the  most  useful  is  to  cut  off  any 
shoot  that  bears  infected  leaves  as  far  back  as  possible,  so  as,  if  possible,  to  remove  all 
the  infected  wood  and  burn  it.  Any  leaves  which  are  diseased  that  may  have  fallen 
should  be  gathered  up  and  burnt.  Spraying  with  Bordeaux  mixture  as  the  leaves  are 
opening,  and  again  in  about  three  weeks'  time,  is  useful  in  destroying  any  spores  that  may 
be  carried  from  other  trees.  There  is  no  method  by  which  the  fungus  while  in  the  shoots 
of  the  tree  can  be  destroyed,  so  that  when  once  a  tree  is  infected,  unless  the  diseased  por- 
tions can  be  cut  off,  the  fungus  is  almost  sure  in  time  to  kill  the  tree.  A  certain  amount  of 
shelter  to  the  trees  in  inclement  weather  as  the  leaves  are  opening,  so  as  to  prevent  any 
checking  of  their  growth  taking  place,  is  most  useful,  and  should  always  be  provided  if 
possible.  Though  such  precautions  may  appear  to  prevent  an  attack,  it  should  always  be 
borne  in  mind  that  they  do  not  kill  the  pest,  but  merely  prevent  it  from  growing  into  the 
leaves  and  bearing  fruit,  just  as  some  plants  will  not  flower  in  seasons  that  are  not  con- 
genial to  them,  for  the  pest  remains  in  the  shoot  or  shoots  all  the  same.  The  number  of 


INSECTICIDES 

is  so  great  that  it  is  impossible  to  even  enumerate  all  of  them,  but  many  if  not 
most  of  them  are  quite  useless,  so  a  few  have  been  selected  whose  value  is  generally 
recognised.  It  should  always  be  remembered  that  one  application  is  seldom  suffi- 
cient, for  as  a  rule  the  eggs,  if  there  are  any,  are  not  killed,  so  the  process  should  be 
repeated  in  the  course  of  five  or  six  days,  and  care  should  be  taken  that  the  under  sides  of 
the  leaves  are  properly  wetted  when  they  are  infested  by  red  spider,  thrips,  and  other 
pests  that  live  in  that  position.  Most  insecticides  are  best  applied  by  a  spraying  machine 
or  a  syringe  with  a  spraying  nozzle.  These  are  made  so  that  the  under  sides  of  the  leaves 
are  easily  reached,  and  much  less  of  the  insecticide  is  needed  than  if  an  ordinary  syringe 
is  used.  Soft  soap  forms  one  of  the  ingredients  in  most  of  the  mixtures.  The  reason  of 
this  is  that  the  soap  helps  the  fluid  to  adhere  to  the  insects  and  it  also  chokes  up  their 
breathing  pores.  (Insects  do  not  breathe  through  their  mouths  but  through  certain  pores 
which  are  usually  placed  on  either  side  of  their  bodies.)  Insecticides  should  not  be  used 
when  the  sun  is  shining  on  the  plants  qr  in  very  bright  weather.  Apply  them  in  the 
evening  and  wash  the  plant  clean  the  next  morning.  Plants  with  very  tender  shoots  and 
foliage  are  more  likely  to  be  injured  than  others,  and  in  their  case  the  washes  should  be 
more  diluted. 

Paraffin  Emulsion,  composed  as  it  is  of  two  ingredients,  both  very  fatal  to  insects,  is 
one  of  the  best.  It  should  be  made  by  dissolving  i  quart  of  soft  soap  in  2  quarts  of 
boiling  water,  and  stirring  in  while  the  mixture  is  quite  hot  i  pint  of  paraffin  oil.  To 
make  the  combination  of  the  oil  and  soap  more  complete  it  should  be  worked  through  a 
syringe  for  some  five  or  ten  minutes  until  a  creamy  mixture  is  formed.  If  this  has  been 
properly  done  the  oil  and  the  soap  will  not  separate.  If  they  do  the  oil  floats  on  the  top, 
and  it  is  difficult  to  ensure  that  some  part  of  the  plant  does  not  get  a  stronger  dose  of  it 
than  it  should  and  so  be  injured.  To  every  pint  of  this  emulsion  add  10  pints  of  water 
before  using  it. 

Tobacco  Water. — Boil  i  oz.  of  strong  tobacco  in  a  gallon  of  water,  add  2  oz.  of  soft 
soap,  strain  and  use  when  cold.  It  should  then  be  of  the  colour  of  fairly  strong  tea. 

Quassia  and  Soft  Soap  Wash.— Soak  \  Ib.  of  quassia  chips  in  a  gallon  of  cold  water 
for  some  hours,  then  boil  gently  for  an  hour  or  more;  strain  out  the  chips,  add  5 
oz.  of  soft  soap,  and,  before  using,  4  gallons  of  water.  It  should  not  be  allowed  to 
touch  fruit. 


INSECT   PESTS  495 

Caustic  Alkali  Wash. — This  mixture  is  very  useful  as  a  winter  wash  for  fruit  trees  that 
are  infested  with  American  blight,  scale,  &c.  It  destroys  all  insect  life  with  which  it 
comes  in  contact,  also  all  moss  and  lichens.  It  is  quite  harmless  to  the  trees  so  long  as  it 
is  used  before  the  buds  begin  to  open.  It  is  very  caustic,  and  should  not  be  allowed  to 
get  on  the  skin.  It  will  also  spoil  clothes,  so  that  it  should  be  used  on  a  still  day,  to 
prevent  it  being  blown  on  to  the  operator  when  using  it.  Make  it  as  follows :  Dissolve 
i  Ib.  of  ground  caustic  soda  in  a  gallon  of  water,  add  f  Ib.  of  pearl  ash,  stir  until  all 
is  dissolved,  and  then  add  9  gallons  of  water,  and  lastly  10  oz.  of  soft  soap  which  has  been 
dissolved  in  a  little  boiling  water  ;  mix  thoroughly,  and  the  solution  is  ready  for  use. 

Paris  Green. — This  insecticide  should  always  be  used  with  care  as  it  is  very  poisonous, 
but  it  is  very  useful  in  killing  caterpillars  that  are  injuring  the  foliage  of  fruit  trees  and 
plants.  It  is  generally  sold  in  a  powder,  but  it  is  better  to  buy  it  as  a  paste,  as  it  does  not 
then  blow  about.  One  oz.  should  be  used  with  every  12  gallons  of  water.  The  mixture 
must  be  kept  well  stirred  as  the  Paris  green  is  very  heavy  and  soon  sinks  to  the  bottom. 
It  should  be  used  as  a  spray,  and  only  enough  should  be  used  to  wet  the  leaves  and  not 
to  make  them  drip.  Paris  green  should  not  be  used  when  trees  and  plants  are  in  flower, 
or  within  a  month  of  the  fruit  becoming  ripe. 

In  making  up  these  recipes  soft  water  should  be  used  if  possible.  If  hard  water  must 
be  used  add  a  little  soda. 

Gas  Lime  if  applied  at  the  rate  of  \  Ib.  to  i  Ib.  per  square  yard  will  kill  wireworms  and 
other  insects  that  are  infesting  the  soil,  also  snake  millipedes,  but  no  crop  can  be  grown 
on  the  ground  for  several  months  after  the  application. 

Nitrate  of  Soda  is  useful  when  applied  as  a  strong  solution  in  water  to  the  roots  of 
plants.  It  is  very  distasteful  to  insects,  &c. ,  and  is  a  stimulant  to  the  plants. 

Soot  when  fresh  is  useful  if  laid  thickly  round  the  plants,  and  then  worked  in,  for  keep- 
ing grubs,  &c. ,  away  from  the  roots. 

Though  it  is  impossible  now  to  deal  with  the  fungi  which  attack  plants,  it  should  be 
always  borne  in  mind  that  if  a  plant  is  infested  any  leaves  that  fall  from  it  should  be 
collected  and  burnt,  and  the  plants  themselves,  if  only  annuals,  should  be  treated  in  the 
same  way  as  soon  as  there  is  no  further  use  for  them.  If  only  thrown  on  a  rubbish  heap 
or  allowed  to  remain  on  the  ground  for  some  time  an  opportunity  may  be  given  for  the 
winter  'form  of  spores  to  ripen  and  reproduce  its  species  the  next  season.  The 

Bordeaux  Mixture. — This  is  the  best  fungicide  for  general  use.  To  make  it  dissolve 
10  oz.  of  sulphate  of  copper  in  a  little  boiling  water,  and  add  5  gallons  of  cold  water,  slake 
6  oz.  of  lime  in  water,  and  pour  it  into  the  copper  solution  when  cold  ;  stir  the  mixture 
well  so  as  to  be  sure  that  all  is  of  uniform  strength  ;  then  dip  the  blade  of  a  bright  knife 
into  the  mixture  for  a  minute  ;  if  the  colour  of  the  steel  is  unchanged  it  is  all  right,  but  if 
the  blade  has  a  coppery  appearance  more  lime  should  be  added  or  the  mixture  will  injure 
the  foliage.  Another  test  is  to  place  some  of  the  mixture  into  a  plate,  hold  it  up  and  blow 
gently  upon  it  for  quite  half  a  minute,  when,  if  a  slight  scum  like  a  little  oil  appears  on 
the  surface,  it  is  as  it  should  be.  For  use  in  connection  with  Potato  disease  see  page  413. 


A   CALENDAR   OF    MONTHLY   WORK1 


JANUARY 

Flower  Garden. — There  is  less  work  in  the  garden  at  this  time  than  at  any  other,  as 
the  ground  should  have  been  prepared  before  this ;  but  make  all  arrears  good  at  once. 
Those  who  have  frames  may  with  advantage  sow  a  few  half-hardy  annuals,  but  it  is  use- 
less to  sow  too  early  if  the  plants  cannot  be  grown  on  under  frame  culture  until  the 
spring  is  well  advanced.  Plants  needed  for  beds  or  grouping,  such  as  Ageratums,  Musks, 
Cinerarias,  or  similar  subjects,  specially  the  single  Begonias,  may  now  be  sown.  Now  is 
a  good  time  to  rearrange  new  quarters,  rockwork,  finish  planting  of  any  kind  if  the 
weather  is  open,  lay  turf,  gravel,  and  drain  or  make  walks.  Plants  wintered  in  frames, 
such  as  Pansies,  will  need  care  to  prevent  damping,  and  free  ventilation  in  favourable 
•veather. 

Vegetables. — Those  who  have  land  still  needing  digging  should  lose  no  time.  Peas 
may  be  sown  in  pots  in  frames  for  early  use  to  plant  out  in  March.  In  open  weather 
Broad  Beans  may  be  sown,  choosing  the  Early  Long-pod  section,  but  only  in  a  warm, 
dry  soil  is  it  wise  to  sow  thus  early.  Seed  Potatoes  in  the  store  should  be  got  in  readi- 
ness, specially  the  early  kinds.  These  are  best  placed  end- ways,  the  eyes  upwards,  ir. 
shallow  boxes  ready  for  planting,  and  placed  in  a  cool  corner  near  the  light  to  encourage 
sturdy  shoots.  Frame  Potatoes  should  be  planted.  Also  cover  Seakale  to  blanch ; 
manure  is  not  a  necessity,  it  blanches  well  under  pots  with  a  simple  covering  of  soil  or 
leaves.  The  same  remark  applies  to  early  Rhubarb  ;  this  will  force  if  lifted  and  placed 
in  any  out-of-the-way  dark  spot,  such  as  under  a  greenhouse  stage.  Seeds  of  all  kinds 
should  be  procured ;  old  stocks  examined  and  tested  for  future  work. 

Fruit  Garden.— Planting  in  mild  weather  should  be  pushed  forward,  and  all  nailing, 
except  Peaches  and  Nectarines,  completed.  Hardy  Vines  may  with  advantage  be  given 
new  surface  food  in  the  way  of  a  rich  compost,  adding  bone-meal  freely.  Pruning  should 
be  completed,  and  in  the  case  of  very  thick  old  trees  of  standard  Apples  and  Pears,  thin 
out  cross  branches,  useless  or  badly-placed  wood,  to  admit  light  and  obtain  finer  fruits. 
New  trees  planted  in  the  autumn  should  be  staked  securely,  also  a  mulch  given  in  severe 
weather,  using  any  spent  manure  for  this  purpose.  Shoots  may  be  cut  for  grafting  and 
trees  headed  down,  and  the  shoots  laid  in  soil  under  a  north  wall  until  required. 

FEBRUARY 

Flower  Garden. — More  half-hardy  seeds  may  be  sown  now  than  advised  previously, 
and  if  means  are  at  hand  to  propagate  by  cuttings  or  division,  increase  the  stock  in  this 
way  too.  In  mild  winters  the  herbaceous  borders  may  be  thinned,  plants  that  have  become 
poor  given  manure,  and  others  divided.  Bulbs  pushing  through  the  soil  are  much 
benefited,  if  at  all  tender,  by  a  mulch  of  light  material  or  soil  drawn  up  to  protect  the 
rising  and  tender  growths.  Chrysanthemums  should  be  taken  out  of  the  cutting-pot  if 
struck  early.  Late  cuttings  may  be  struck.  Dahlias  started  into  growth  in  frames  to 
make  cuttings ;  the  latter  are  much  better  than  old  tubers  planted. 

Vegetables. — This  month,  no  matter  how  small  the  garden,  is  a  month  of  work,  as 
in  sheltered  spots  a  start  may  be  made  with  early  Peas,  Beans,  and  Salads,  such  as  Lettuce 
and  Radishes.  A  few  Potatoes  may  be  planted  under  a  north  wall.  Onions  sown  in  well- 
prepared  land,  the  seed-beds  made  as  firm  as  possible  both  before  and  after  the  sowing. 

i  This  is  a  calendar  of  simple  monthly  duties  in  the  garden,  and  will  prove  helpful 
to  beginners  and  young  gardeners  as  a  reminder  of  the  importance  of  sowing  and  plant- 
ing at  the  right  time. 

496 


CALENDAR   OF   MONTHLY  WORK       497 

Of  course  the  work  can  only  be  done  when  the  soil  is  sufficiently  dry  to  tread  upon.  Par- 
snips, if  needed  of  a  large  size,  should  be  sown,  giving  these  plants  ample  room,  18  inches 
between  the  rows  being  none  too  much ;  thin  the  plants  to  half  that  distance.  Celery 
for  early  use  should  be  sown  in  pans  or  boxes.  Only  a  small  quantity  will  be  needed 
thus  early.  Tomatoes  also  should  be  sown  thinly  to  grow  on  in  pots ;  see  varieties  on 
pages  418  and  614.  If  glass  is  not  at  command,  far  better  purchase  plants  than  sow 
too  early. 

Fruit  Garden. — Strawberry  quarters,  from  which  a  crop  was  obtained  last  year,  will 
well  repay  feeding  at  this  date.  If  not  given  food  in  the  autumn,  merely  hoe  the  surface— 
not  dig  -  and  spread  the  manure  close  round  the  plants,  cutting  away  old  leaf  growth. 
Small  runners  laid  in  last  autumn  should  be  planted  out,  and  new  plantations  made  firm 
by  treading.  Raspberry  canes  may  now  be  shortened  to  the  proper  length,  and  the  canes 
supported.  If  food  can  be  given,  they  may  have  a  good  top  dressing.  All  pruning  of 
Peaches  and  Nectarines  should  now  be  completed,  and  this  is  a  good  time  to  dress  trees. 
Syringe  walls  to  get  rid  of  insect  pests ;  this  will  save  labour  in  the  summer.  It  may  be 
necessary,  near  towns,  to  net  Gooseberry  trees,  as  small  birds  inflict  much  damage  this 
month ;  they  are  also  kept  at  bay  considerably  by  using  black  cotton  between  the  branches. 
This  is  a  good  time  to  give  these  trees  manure,  lightly  forking  it  in  ;  and  in  gardens  where 
Gooseberries  are  troubled  with  caterpillars  in  the  summer,  remove  the  surface  soil,  burn, 
and  give  some  new  material. 

MARCH 

Flower  Garden. —The  work  in  this  garden  will  now  begin,  as  though,  in  a  late  season, 
grass  mowing  will  not  be  necessary,  a  certain  amount  of  labour  in  rolling  and  making 
things  as  neat  as  possible  must  be  done.  Tall  creepers  should  be  trained,  old  and  poor 
wood  cut  out,  and  new  wood  laid  in ;  specially  in  the  case  of  Roses,  as  the  best  flowers  are 
produced  on  the  new  wood.  Roses  in  beds  should  now  be  pruned,  and  the  beds  made 
neat,  the  surface  being  hoed  over  or  lightly  forked.  Tea  Roses  that  have  been  given 
protection  should  be  gradually  exposed,  and  growth  shortened ;  young  shoots  should  be 
encouraged  from  the  base.  Sow  flower  seeds,  not  so  much  however  as  next  month ;  but 
those  who  have  glass  can  sow  a  number  of  half-hardy  plants,  and  save  much  time. 

Vegetables.— A  start  must  be  made  in  the  open  if  good  Brassicas  are  needed.  Beans, 
both  the  Long-pod  and  Windsor,  may  be  sown,  the  former  at  the  beginning  of  the  month, 
the  last-named  at  the  end.  Broad  Beans  succeed  best  in  a  good  loamy  soil,  not  too  light. 
It  is  too  early  to  sow  Dwarf  Kidney  Beans  and  Runners,  but  such  crops  as  Spinach, 
Lettuce,  and  Globe  Beets  may  be  sown ;  also  early  varieties  of  Turnips,  such  as  Milan 
and  Snowball.  Carrots,  Early  Nantes,  and  the  Short-horn  varieties  should  also  be  sown 
in  light  warm  soils.  Any  spare  plants  of  autumn-sown  Cabbage  planted  out  will  form 
a  succession  to  those  put  in  during  the  autumn.  Asparagus  beds  should  be  given  food  in 
showery  weather  in  the  way  of  salt-fish  manure,  guano,  or  other  special  fertilisers ;  food 
given  now  that  growth  is  just  active  is  more  beneficial  than  in  the  early  winter  months. 
Beds  should  be  prepared  for  planting  or  sowing,  and  good  results  are  obtained  by  deep 
cultivation  and  a  liberal  supply  of  manure.  Asparagus  should  not  be  too  much  crowded 
as  is  often  the  case,  a  distance  at  least  of  18  inches  to  2  feet  between  the  rows  is  needful. 
Celery  sown  in  March  will  soon  be  ready  to  prick  off  into  boxes  or  frames  ;  another  or 
mid -season  lot  should  be  sown.  All  vacant  ground  should  be  dug ;  other,  that  is  cropped, 
should  be  hoed  over  the  first  opportunity. 

Fruit  Garden.— Those  who  have  Peach  or  Apricot  trees  should  give  a  slight  protec- 
tion from  frost ;  the  trees  should  now  be  nailed  or  tied  to  the  walls,  and  where  birds  are 
troublesome  look  well  after  small  fruits  which  they  soon  destroy.  Much  of  the  work  ad- 
vised last  month  may  have  been  delayed  by  severe  weather,  and  all  arrears  should  now  be 
cleared  up. 

APRIL 

Flower  Garden.—  This  is  a  most  important  month  to  the  beginner,  as  seed-sowing 
will  be  more  general  than  at  any  other  season,  and  much  of  the  future  brightness 
of  the  garden,  say  from  June  to  October,  will  depend  upon  the  labour  given  during 
the  next  few  weeks.  A  hard-and-fast  line  with  regard  to  dates  cannot  be  given  to  the 
beginner  for  various  reasons,  the  chief  one  being  that  we  are  dependent  upon  climatic 
conditions,  as  even  in  April  ths  soil  may  be  too  cold  or  too  wet  at  the  beginning  of  the 
month.  This  will  delay  sowing  still  later.  The  soil  should  be  in  what  is  termed  a  friable 
condition— that  is,  it  should  not  clog  or  stick  together,  but  break  up  freely ;  and  no  matter 
what  seeds  are  sown,  success  is  always  greater  when  the  soil  is  well  prepared.  Too  deep 
sowing  means  failure  in  a  cold,  wet  spring,  so  that  the  nature  of  the  soil,  if  light  or  heavy, 
should  be  considered.  If  the  latter,  cover  more  lightly,  or,  better  still,  give  a  little  lighter 

2  I 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

soil  if  obtainable.  Many  beginners  hare  no  glass  to  raise  tender  seeds,  and,  though  glass 
is  a  great  gain,  some  of  the  best  results  are  secured  with  a  little  care,  but  with  April  well 
advanced,  there  need  be  no  misgivings  as  to  the  seed  sown  in  sheltered  borders  and  the 
open  ground. 

Many  hardy  annual  flowers,  such  as  Antirrhinums,  Acrocliniums  (Everlasting), 
China  Asters,  Coreopsis  in  variety,  Canterbury  Bells,  Candytufts,  Annual  Chrysanthe- 
mums, Clarkias,  Cornflowers  in  variety,  Delphinums,  Eschscholtzias,  Gaillardias,  Godetias, 
Gypsophila  elegans,  beautiful,  light  feathery  flowers  for  massing  in  vases  ;  Larkspur, 
Lobelias,  Amaranthus  (Love  Lies  Bleeding),  Lupines,  Marigolds,  Musk  or  Mimulus, 
Myosotis  (Forget-me-Not),  Mignonette,  Pansy,  Pinks,  Phlox,  Penstemon,  Rhodanthe, 
Pyrethrum,  Rudbeckia,  Scabious,  Silene,  Stocks,  Wallflowers,  and  Sweet  Williams. 
Sweet  Peas  sown  now  will  be  in  bloom  in  July.  All  creepers  on  buildings  should  be 
pruned,  and  new  soil  given  where  needed.  Roses  will  now  need  encouragement,  and 
pruning  should  be  no  longer  delayed.  From  this  date  keep  a  look-out  for  insect  pests. 
Lawns  will  need  mowing,  but  previously  should  have  been  well  rolled,  and  if  a  path 
wants  gravel  see  to  this  at  once. 

Vegetables. — With  regard  to  the  vegetable  supply,  this  and  May  are  the  worst  months 
in  the  year,  as  the  winter  greens  are  beginning  to  run,  and  spring  kinds  are  not  in. 
Early  Cabbage  may  be  hastened  by  feeding  in  dry  weather  either  with  liquid  manure  or 
guano  water ;  also  early  Cauliflowers.  It  is  useless  to  leave  old  worthless  stalks  in  the 
soil  a  day  longer  than  can  be  helped.  Potato  planting  should  now  be  general.  Give  the 
early  kinds  the  most  sheltered  positions.  There  is  no  lack  of  work  in  this  department,  and 
though  what  is  done  will  make  little  show  the  return  will  be  seen  in  a  few  months  hence. 
All  kinds  of  early  Broccoli  may  be  sown,  also  Kales,  Savoys,  Cauliflowers,  and  Cabbage 
for  autumn  supplies.  Carrots,  Turnips,  Beet,  and  Parsnips  may  be  sown  in  late  soils,  but 
for  keeping  for  winter  use  May  sowings  are  advisable  for  Beet,  Carrots,  and  Parsnips. 
All  ground  should  be  dug  as  it  becomes  vacant.  A  small  sowing  of  Dwarf  French  Beans 
may  be  made  towards  the  end  of  the  month.  Spinach  should  now  be  sown  every  three 
weeks  to  maintain  a  regular  supply.  Vegetable  Marrows  may  be  sown  on  a  hot-bed  if  the 
latter  is  made  up  at  this  date.  Some  of  the  best  Marrow  Peas  should  be  sown  for  July 
and  August  supplies.  Sow  thinly  in  rich  land.  Lettuce  and  Radish  should  be  sown  as 
needed  ;  the  latter  on  a  north  border. 

Fruit  Garden. — There  is  less  work  to  do  in  this  department  than  in  the  others,  as 
pruning  will  be  over,  but  Apricot  and  Peach  trees  will  need  attention.  All  sh'  ots  upon 
Apricots  that  proceed  direct  from  the  trees  should  be  stopped  to  within  a  couple  of 
inches  of  the  base ;  these  are  called  foreright  shoots.  Those  that  are  at  the  side  are 
needed  for  extension,  and  will  later  on  be  tacked  or  tied  in.  Peach  and  Nectarines  need 
disbudding.  This  is  often  totally  neglected  by  beginners,  and  if  all  shoots  are  allowed 
to  grow,  the  trees  are  a  mass  of  spray  and  give  few  fruits.  In  disbudding  leave  a  couple 
of  good  buds  at  the  base  or  bottom  of  each  shoot.  These  are  the  shoots  needed  for 
next  year's  fruit,  and  stop  within  two  inches.  One  good  bud  or  young  shoot  should  be 
left  above  the  fruits,  and  rub  off  weak  ones.  Let  the  work  be  done  piecemeal,  a  little 
every  other  day,  as  then  the  trees  do  not  suffer.  To  sum  up  the  work  of  disbudding— 
leave  sufficient  wood  for  next  season's  fruiting,  as  the  fruit  shoots  that  are  bearing  this 
year  will  be  cut  out  when  the  crop  is  cleared,  and  the  shoots  will  be  tied  or  nailed  in 
as  they  increase  in  size,  not  over  the  fruit  to  hide  them,  but  alongside  wherever  there 
is  room.  Green  and  black-fly  are  troublesome  pests  upon  Peach  trees,  and  must  be 
checked  as  soon  as  seen  by  syringing  with  tepid  rain  water  mixed  with  one  pound 
of  soft  soap  to  three  gallons  of  water.  Well  work  the  soap  into  the  water,  until  it  is 
like  milk,  then  wet  all  parts  of  the  tree.  Tobacco  water  may  be  used,  or  quassia,  but 
it  is  better  to  syringe  several  days  in  succession  in  the  evening  than  in  too  strong  doses. 
Strawberries  should  be  planted  early  in  the  month  if  the  plants  were  too  small  to  put  in 
during  autumn.  Raspberries  will  benefit  by  manurial  mulching,  and  this  also  applies 
to  old  Strawberry  quarters.  Gooseberry  trees  infested  with  caterpillars  should  receive 
a  dressing  of  soot  and  lime  under  the  trees,  even  if  the  old  soil  were  removed  previously. 
All  newly-planted  trees  will  benefit  by  a  mulch  or  surface  covering  of  manure,  and 
staked  securely  when  necessary.  The  soil  between  fruit  trees  should  be  hoed  over  to 
stop  the  growth  of  weeds. 

MAY 

Flower  Garden. — Much  of  the  work  advised  last  month  may  still  remain  unfinished 
owing  to  weather  being  unsuitable,  so  that,  as  regards  seed  sowing,  the  same  advice 
holds  good.  The  beginner  should  remember  that  the  garden  will  be  brighter  if  some 
kinds  of  flower  seed,  which  are  of  short  duration,  are  sown  every  few  weeks  in  small 
quantities,  thus  giving  much  better  cutting  material.  This  applies  to  such  flowers  as 
Mignonette,  Gypsophila,  and  other  quick  growing  plants.  Seedlings  sown  early  and 


CALENDAR   OF   MONTHLY   WORK       499 

just  large  enough  to  handle  should  be  thinned.  Many  beautiful  hardy  flowers  are 
ruined  through  sowing  too  thickly  and  leaving  all  to  chance.  Others  may,  with  advan- 
tage, be  transplanted  or  gaps  made  good,  and  where  others  have  failed  more  may  be 
sown.  In  favourable  weather,  half-hardy  things  may  now  be  planted,  and  such  plants 
as  Geraniums,  but  only  towards  the  end  of  the  month.  These,  if  purchased,  should  be 
well  exposed  for  a  little  time  before  planting.  When  brought  direct  from  a  house  or 
from  under  glass,  they  lose  their  leaves  badly  and  take  weeks  to  recover.  All  plants 
for  autumn  and  spring  beds  are  best  sown  this  month ;  there  must  be  no  further  delay. 
Dahlias  may  be  planted,  Carnations  staked.  A  sharp  look-out  is  now  necessary  with 
Roses,  to  keep  clear  of  insect  pests.  Mow  the  lawn  weekly,  roll  walks  when  possible, 
and  the  flower  garden  will  be  most  enjoyable. 

Vegetables. — This  is  a  very  busy  month,  as  every  spare  bit  of  land  should  now  be 
made  the  most  of.  Plant  autumn  Cauliflowers  and  Broccoli  in  fairly  good  soil,  Savoy, 
Kale,  and  late  Broccoli  in  land  not  recently  manured,  as  plants,  to  stand  the  winter,  must 
not  be  at  all  over-luxuriant,  but  as  hard  as  possible.  Lettuce  should  be  transplanted,  and 
more  seed  sown.  Broad,  French,  and  Runner  Beans  should  now  be  sown,  the  first- 
named  in  a  cool  border,  heavy  soil  if  possible,  the  two  latter  in  diverse  soil  and  a  warm, 
open  position.  Sow  Runner  Beans  from  the  loth  to  the  2oth  of  the  month,  according  to 
the  locality.  These  like  a  rich  root  run.  Celery  should  be  secured  for  early  supplies,  and 
trenches  made  for  a  later  lot.  Some  of  the  best  Marrow  Peas,  such  as  Autocrat  and 
Ne  Plus  Ultra,  should  be  sown  in  well-manured  land  for  August  and  later  supplies. 
Turnips  should  be  sown  on  a  cool  border,  and  kinds  that  will  stand  dry  weather,  such  as 
Red  Globe,  as  from  this  date  this  vegetable  is  attacked  by  fly.  If  any  of  the  late  Broccoli 
or  Kales  have  failed,  sowings  made  now  will  make  up  for  losses.  Give  Asparagus  beds 
occasional  dressings  of  salt  and  liquid  manures  or  nitrates  well  watered  in.  Early 
Potatoes  should  be  moulded  up  as  soon  as  large  enough.  The  Dutch  hoe  should  be 
kept  going  between  growing  crops,  and  watering  done  if  actually  needed. 

Fruit  Garden. — Stopping  and  training  in  shoots  of  Peach  and  Nectarine  trees  will  need 
more  attention  this  month  than  previously,  and  in  cold  soils  the  tender  foliage  of  the 
Peach  frequently  suffers.  One  of  the  worst  troubles  is  mildew,  which  may  be  stopped 
by  syringing  with  a  sulphur  solution,  also  in  very  slight  cases  dusting  over  the  trees  when 
damp  with  flowers  of  sulphur.  Royal  George  Peach  quickly  becomes  mildewed.  All 
fruits  of  Apricots,  Peaches,  and  Nectarines  should  now  be  thinned,  and  with  care  after 
this  date  few  fruits  will  fall.  Strawberry  beds  that  are  intended  to  bear  should  now  be 
mulched  with  clean  litter  or  straw  to  protect  the  fruit.  Grass  is  used  at  times,  but 
short  grass  is  objectionable  in  wet  weather ;  but  that  from  fields  cut  at  this  date,  before 
the  seeds  are  matured,  and  laid  straight,  forms  a  good  protection  and  does  not  seed  like 
straw  litter.  Newly-planted  trees  may  need  water,  and  it  is  well  to  thin  the  fruits  severely 
as  they  form,  leaving  sufficient  to  test  variety. 

JUNE 

Flower  Garden.— This  month  will  show  some  return  for  labour  previously  expended. 
This  is  an  excellent  time  to  sow  seed  of  hardy  perennial  or  biennial  flowers,  which  make  a 
charming  display  not  only  for  one  year,  but  yearly,  as  many  may  be  propagated  afterwards 
by  division  of  root  or  cuttings.  Finish  all  planting  out,  and  stake  or  support  anything 
needed.  It  is  better  to  do  this  early  before  the  plants  get  injured.  Now  is  a  good  time 
to  kill  weeds  on  walks.  Use  weed-killers  when  the  weather  is  dry.  Roses  may  be  fed 
with  liquid  manure,  or  use  fertilisers.  Roses  attacked  with  green-fly  will  need  syringing 
with  soapy  or  tobacco  water,  and  in  wet  seasons,  should  mildew  show  itself,  dust  over 
with  dry  sulphur.  Use  a  small  hoe  freely  between  growing  plants  to  keep  down  weeds. 
All  creepers  will  need  attention  for  a  time  to  keep  them  in  place,  as  those  on  buildings 
will  grow  unwieldy. 

Vegetables. — In  this  portion  of  the  garden  the  beginner  will  now  be  having  a  good 
supply  of  Cabbage.  Cauliflower  and  early  Peas  should  now  be  turning  in ;  to  make  provision 
for  sowing  more  of  such  kinds  as  were  advised  last  month,  or  in  poor  soils  the  early 
kinds  may  be  sown  now  to  give  late  supplies.  Ashleaf  Potatoes  will  now  be  ready  to  lift 
for  daily  use,  but  the  bulk  will  benefit  by  being  left  a  little  longer  in  the  soil.  Celery, 
Vegetable  Marrows,  and  any  other  tender  plants  should  be  planted ;  also  Tomatoes  and 
Cucumbers.  Tomatoes,  either  on  walls  or  stakes,  should  be  trained  to  one  main  growth, 
and  not  given  a  too  rich  root  run  ;  far  better  feed  from  the  surface  when  fruits  are  formed. 
Lettuce  should  be  sown  for  later  use,  and  in  dry  soils  sow  very  thinly  in  drills  to  save 
transplanting,  merely  thinning  out  the  rows.  Endive,  a  very  beautiful  salad  plant,  may 
be  sown  for  early  supplies,  but  in  dry  hot  weather  defer  sowing  until  July.  Runner  Beans 
should  be  staked  neatly,  giving  the  stakes  a  crossbar  support.  Plant  out  all  kinds  of  green 
vegetables  for  autumn,  winter,  and  spring  supplies.  Sow  Coleworts  for  October  and 


500  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

November  use.     These  are  delicious  little  Cabbages.     Pickling  Cabbage  may  be  sown 
for  cutting  next  year,  if  desired  large.     Sow  Turnips  as  previously  advised. 

Fruit  Garden. — This  month  will  call  forth  the  energies  of  the  grower  as  so  many 
things  require  attention;  for  instance,  laying-in  of  new  wood,  stopping  gross  shoots, 
cleansing,  and  watering  are  all-important  details.  Avoid  crowding  healthy  trees  on  walls  ; 
the  Peach  must  have  light  to  develop  the  growth.  Many  Peach  trees  lose  shoots  in 
severe  winters  because  the  wood  is  soft,  but  this  will  not  be  so  if  the  advice  given  above 
is  carried  out.  In  olden  days  the  Vine  was  a  favourite  plant  (profitable  also)  on  buildings, 
and  this  needs  a  little  attention.  Disbud  freely,  only  leaving  the  strongest,  best-placed 
shoots  ;  these  to  be  secured  when  strong  enough  to  the  wall  or  building.  Rub  off  weak, 
useless  spray  growth,  and  stop  strong  shoots  two  joints  above  the  bunches  if  such  shoots 
are  not  needed  for  extension.  All  wall  trees  will  benefit  greatly  by  being  damped  over 
late  in  the  day  with  the  hose  or  syringe,  especially  Peaches,  Nectarines,  and  Apricots  ; 
and  these  trees  should  not  be  dry  at  the  roots,  whilst  they  well  repay  food  in  the  shape 
of  liquid  manure.  Young  Gooseberry  trees  will  benefit  by  having  a  portion  of  the  fruit 
gathered,  and  the  same  remark  applies  to  other  fruit  trees.  Overcropping  is  a  mistake. 

JULY 

Flower  Garden. — This  is  a  variable  month  with  regard  to  weather.  At  times  it  is  hot 
and  dry,  at  others  thunderstorms  are  frequent.  If  the  former,  the  water-pot  must  be  used 
freely,  and  there  will  be  a  great  saving  of  labour  if  a  light  cover  or  mulch  can  be  given 
tender  plants,  such  as  need  moisture.  This  placed  over  the  surface  or  between  the  rows 
will  prove  of  much  benefit.  Many  tall-growing  plants,  such  as  Canterbury  Bells  and 
Dahlias,  will  need  stakes,  weakly  growths  cut  away  from  others,  and  cuttings  may  be 
struck  in  a  shady  border.  Now  is  a  good  time  to  divide  Garden  Pinks,  as  soon  as  the 
flowers  are  past.  Polyanthuses  may  be  sown  this  month  for  next  spring  flowering.  These 
are  very  beautiful,  if  a  good  strain  of  seedlings  is  obtained.  Roses  will  need  the  attention 
advised  last  month  with  regard  to  mildew  and  old  bloom  removed  when  past.  Chry- 
santhemums should  be  planted  out  of  pots  from  plants  struck  in  the  spring ;  older  plants 
will  need  feeding  and  thinning  of  shoots  or  stopping. 

Vegetables. — In  case  the  weather  is  hot  and  dry,  more  attention  will  be  required  in 
watering  and  feeding,  especially  when  the  crops  have  been  recently  planted.  Gather  all 
vegetable  crops  as  they  mature,  and  do  not  allow  Beans  to  become  old.  Gather  regularly, 
also  feed  in  dry  weather.  Runner  Beans  in  a  light  soil  frequently  cast  their  flowers  in  hot, 
dry  weather.  Water  liberally,  and  top  the  plants  at  a  height  of  6  feet  from  the  soil. 
If  Dwarf  Beans  are  liked,  make  a  sowing  of  Canadian  Wonder  on  a  cool  border  in 
rich  soil,  in  drills  2  feet  apart,  and  thin  to  3  inches  between  the  plants  when  above  the 
soil.  Cabbage  seed  must  be  sown  this  month.  A  good  date  is  from  the  loth  to  the  aoth, 
according  to  the  locality  if  north  or  south,  and  such  kinds  as  Ellam's  Dwarf  Early  or 
Button's  April  cannot  be  beaten.  Coleworts  may  be  sown  for  late  autumn  supplies,  also 
Lettuce  and  Endive.  Sow  Carrots  of  the  short-horn  type  for  drawing  in  a  young  state 
in  autumn  and  winter.  Spray  Potatoes  at  intervals  of  ten  days  with  Bordeaux  mixture 
to  prevent  disease.  Parsley  should  be  sown,  other  herbs  dried  for  winter  use,  and  the 
hoe  used  freely  when  possible. 

Fruit  Garden.  — After  the  ripe  strawberries  are  gathered  the  cultivator  can  either  layer 
young  runners  for  new  beds  or  grow  the  old  ones  on.  We  advise  both,  as  by  having  a 
new  bed  yearly  and  destroying  an  old  one  there  is  always  a  good  supply  of  fruit.  The 
plants  like  a  well-cultivated  soil,  and  if  a  little  heavy  so  much  the  better.  Give  plenty  of 
well-rotted  manure,  and  keep  runner  growth  cut  away.  Old  plants  retained  may  be  cut 
over,  the  older  leaves  being  removed  to  give  the  new  crowns  more  light  and  room.  This 
work  is  best  done  as  soon  as  the  crop  is  cleared,  and  in  making  new  beds,  if  possible  give 
a  fresh  root  run,  using  the  old  bed  for  vegetables  for  a  time.  Raspberries  will  benefit  by 
a  mulch  of  rich  material,  also  moisture  in  dry  weather.  Cherries  will  need  attention,  as 
black-fly  is  a  great  nuisance,  and  to  destroy  this  the  portion  of  the  tree  infested  should 
be  given  a  thorough  wetting  over  either  of  quassia  or  tobacco  water,  dusting  over  after- 
wards with  tobacco  powder.  The  same  advice  given  last  month  as  regards  stopping  and 
laying  in  shoots  is  applicable.  Feed,  water,  and  syringe,  except  where  fruit  is  ripening. 
A  sharp  lookout  must  be  kept  for  the  Apple  moth.  This  is  best  destroyed  by  hand 
picking. 

AUGUST 

Flower  Garden.  — The  Carnations  will  soon  be  past  their  best ,  and  the  earlier  the  young 
growth  can  be  layered  the  better.  This  is  a  simple  process,  and  is  described  under  Car- 
nations, p.  125.  Pansies  strike  freely  now  from  cuttings,  also  many  other  plants  that  have 


CALENDAR   OF   MONTHLY   WORK        501 

made  a  fair  growth.  All  old  flowers  should  be  removed,  and  growths  regulated. 
Mignonette  should  be  sown  for  late  flowering,  and  the  seed-pods  of  Sweet  Peas  re- 
moved as  soon  as  possible,  as  if  these  remain  the  plants  will  stop  flowering.  They  well 
repay  liberal  supplies  of  food,  such  as  liquid  manure.  In  hot  weather  watering  will  be 
needful.  If  lawns  are  watered,  this  must  be  done  regularly  and  late  in  the  day.  Growths 
of  Dahlias  will  need  thinning  out.  Stake  the  plants  too.  This  applies  to  other  strong- 
growing  things.  Roses  may  be  cut  over  to  regulate  gross  growths,  the  old  blooms 
removed,  and  food  given  in  the  shape  of  liquid  manure  or  fertilisers. 

Vegetables.— If  by  any  mishap  the  seeds  of  Cabbage  sown  as  advised  last  month 
have  failed,  make  good  the  loss  at  the  earliest  opportunity.  In  dry  weather  cover  the 
seed-beds  with  mats  to  assist  germination,  removing  them  as  soon  as  the  seedlings  come 
through  the  soil.  Colewort  and  Celery  should  be  planted.  Give  water  liberally  in  dry 
weather.  Spring-sown  Onions  should  be  harvested,  well  drying  the  bulbs  and  storing 
in  a  cool  place.  A  sowing  of  the  winter  kinds,  such  as  the  Tripoli,  should  be  made  in 
drills  18  inches  apart  in  firm  soil.  Land  needed  for  Cabbage  should  be  prepared; 
those  quarters  just  cleared  of  spring  Onions  are  suitable.  Hoe  the  soil  over  and  draw 
drills  rather  than  digging  the  land  afresh.  Spinach  should  be  sown  for  autumn,  and 
Cauliflowers  for  spring  cutting.  Turnips  and  Lettuce  should  be  sown  in  small  quan- 
tities, and  the  roots  of  the  earlier  Turnips  lifted  and  stored  in  a  cool  place.  Lift 
mid-season  potatoes  and  clamp  them,  as  they  must  not  be  exposed  too  long  as  they 
soon  get  discoloured.  Mould  up  early  Broccoli,  Kales,  and  Brussels  Sprouts,  remove  all 
old  useless  matter,  stack  Pea  stakes  as  the  plants  are  cleared,  and  keep  the  surface 
soil  well  stirred. 

Fruit  Garden. — To  get  the  best  results  from  early  varieties  of  fruit,  such  as  Apples 
and  Pears,  gather  a  few  fruits  daily  to  extend  the  season.  Peaches  are  best  gathered 
early  in  the  day  or  late.  The  fruits  bruise  more  easily  when  picked  whilst  warm.  These 
trees  will  take  a  lot  of  moisture  if  under  dry  walls  in  light  soils.  The  planting  of 
Strawberries  should  not  be  delayed.  Those  layered  last  month  will  now  be  ready,  and 
each  plant  should  be  made  firm  and  planted  so  that  the  soil  is  just  level  with  the  crown. 
Water  freely  in  dry  weather  after  planting.  The  old  fruiting  canes  may  with  advantage 
be  cut  out  of  Raspberries,  allowing  three  to  five  new  growths  for  next  year,  cutting  away 
others.  Hoe  freely  among  the  fruit  trees,  and  protect  late  Cherries  and  other  small 
fruits  that  are  to  be  kept  for  some  time.  Lay  in  young  wood  of  Cherry  trees,  also  other 
stone  fruits.  Shorten  growths  of  others,  and  destroy  American  blight,  where  present. 
This  especially  refers  to  young  Apple  trees. 

SEPTEMBER 

Flower  Garden.— The  flower  garden  will  need  more  attention  to  keep  it  bright,  as 

with  shortening  days  leaves  will  fall  and  more  tidying  up  be  necessary.  If  previous 
advice  has  been  followed  in  the  way  of  sowing  annuals,  these  will  keep  bright  well  into 
October.  This  is  the  best  time,  to  purchase  bulbs  for  a  spring  supply,  and  at  the  end  of 
the  month  plant  Hyacinths,  Tulips,  Crocus,  &c,  Both  Crocuses  and  Daffodils  succeed 
well  in  grass,  as  they  make  a  charming  feature  in  the  garden  early  in  the  spring,  and 
reappear  yearly.  Now  is  a  good  time  to  commence  new  ground  work  and  make  walks, 
as  the  work  can  be  done  so  much  easier  now  than  in  mid-winter,  when  the  land  is  not 
in  workable  condition.  The  grass  must  still  be  mown,  as  often  after  heat  and  drought 
it  springs  up  quickly.  Now  is  a  good  time  to  strike  Roses  from  ripened  shoots.  Cut 
them  about  18  inches  long  and  trim  to  half  the  length,  inserting  the  shoots  in  quite 
firm  sandy  soil. 

Vegetables. — Make  as  much  as  possible  of  the  tender  vegetables  at  this  date,  as  we 
may  now  expect  frost  at  any  moment,  and  this  will  cripple  the  crop.  Towards  the  end  of 
the  month  cover  a  good  lot  of  Dwarf  Beans  from  the  July  sowing,  as  if  covered  over  at 
night  and  exposed  in  the  day  they  may  be  kept  good  for  some  time.  Vegetable  Marrows 
long  keep  good  after  being  cut  if  the  stalk  end  is  placed  in  water  in  a  cool  shed ;  the 
same  plan  may  with  advantage  be  adopted  with  Runner  Beans  and  Peas,  but  only  suf- 
ficient moisture  given  to  cover  the  stalk,  not  the  pod,  and  put  a  few  lumps  of  charcoal  in 
the  water  to  keep  it  sweet.  All  kinds  of  Brassicas  that  are  to  stand  the  winter  should  be 
moulded  up.  Towards  the  end  of  the  month  the  earliest  cabbage  should  be  planted, 
making  the  seedlings  firm.  Coleworts,  also,  of  the  late  variety,  the  Hardy  Green,  will  be 
useful  from  December  to  March  if  planted  rather  close  together  ;  they  then  give  a  good 
return.  Turnips  should  be  stored,  others  thinned.  Asparagus  beds  should  be  watered 
if  the  weather  is  dry ;  it  is  far  better  to  feed  now  than  in  winter,  but  after  the  early  part  of 
the  month  food  will  not  be  needed. 

Fruit  Garden. — The  beginner  in  a  way  will  have  less  work  and  more  returns,  as  early 


502  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

Apples  and  Pears  will  need  gathering,  but  do  not  hurry  this  work.  Many  of  our  best  Pears 
will  not  keep  long,  and  these  should  be  left  as  late  as  possible.  Far  better,  in  the  case  of  late 
varieties  to  lose  a  few  fruits  by  dropping  than  a  large  number  when  in  the  store  by  shrivel- 
ing and  premature  decay.  Apples  left  as  long  as  possible  on  the  trees  always  colour 
better  and  keep  longer.  Many  gardeners  leave  late  kinds  on  the  trees  in  a  favourable 
season  until  the  early  part  of  November.  As  soon  as  Peaches  and  Nectarines  are  gathered, 
what  is  termed  the  old  fruiting  wood  should  be  cut  away  ;  namely,  the  small  shoots 
that  have  borne  fruit,  and  if,  as  advised  when  disbudding,  two  or  even  one  shoot  were 
left  at  the  base,  these  now  will  be  full  grown  and  take  the  place  of  the  wood  cut  out.  By 
cutting  out  this  wood  now  the  new  growth  made  will  have  a  better  chance  of  ripening. 
Branches  of  Figs  on  walls  should  be  thinned,  and  weak  growth  removed.  By  doing  this 
work  now,  little  pruning  will  be  needed  in  spring. 


OCTOBER 

Flower  Garden. — Work  amongst  the  flowers  will  principally  consist  in  clearing  away 
old  plants  that  have  done  their  duty,  and  replacing  with  others  of  a  hardier  nature. 
Wallflowers,  Forget-me-Nots,  Sweet  Williams,  and  such  like  plants  should  now  be 
lifted  from  their  summer  quarters  with  a  ball  and  planted  in  the  beds.  Now  is  the  best 
time  to  lift  evergreens  if  the  soil  is  sufficiently  moist.  It  is  necessary  to  have  a  ball  of 
earth  and  roots  to  each  plant.  Should  the  weather  be  dry,  soak  the  plants  previous  to 
their  removal.  All  tender  plants  should  be  given  shelter.  Bulbous  rooted  ones,  such 
as  Begonias,  should  be  placed  in  fine  soil  or  loose  fibre,  and  kept  dry  in  a  greenhouse. 
Cannas  will  winter  under  stages  or  in  dry  cellars.  This  also  applies  to  Begonias,  as  in 
many  small  gardens  glass  is  not  at  command.  Dahlias  need  similar  treatment,  also 
Cardinal  Lobelias,  which  are  beautiful  summer  plants.  Calceolarias  winter  well  in  places 
merely  protected  from  severe  frost  if  not  kept  too  moist  in  winter. 

Vegetables.— All  late  Potatoes  should  be  lifted  this  month  and  clamped— that  is,  they 
are  placed  in  a  heap  on  a  layer  of  clean  straw,  and  covered  with  straw,  and  over  this  soil 
from  9  inches  to  12  inches  in  thickness.  Make  the  outside  smooth  with  the  back  of  the 
spade.  Seed  Potatoes  should  be  more  freely  exposed  to  harden  the  tubers,  either  on 
shelves  or  in  boxes  in  layers.  Mould  up  Celery  without  delay ;  finish  Cabbage  planting, 
and  do  not  rely  on  a  very  early  sowing  or  planting  as  in  mild  winters.  These  run  or  bolt, 
and  the  crop  is  lost.  When  planting  now,  select  medium-sized  sturdy  plants,  and  plant 
in  an  open  position  in  rows,  15  inches  between  the  plants  and  18  inches  between  the 
rows.  Protect  early  Cauliflower  by  tying  the  leaves  at  the  top.  This  also  applies  to  the 
autumn  Broccoli.  Cauliflowers  sown  a  few  weeks  ago  should  be  planted  on  a  warm 
border,  or  at  the  foot  of  a  south  wall ;  or  if  hand-glasses  or  frames  are  at  hand,  they 
winter  well  under  these.  Plant  a  good  batch  of  late  Lettuces  on  a  warm,  well-drained 
border,  lifting  the  seedlings  carefully  to  keep  the  roots  intact. 

Fruit  Garden.— This  is  a  busy  month,  as  there  is  fruit  to  gather  and  store,  and  new 
trees  to  select  and  plant.  The  best  plan  is  to  plant  as  soon  as  the  leaves  fall,  and  the 
trees  must  be  ordered  some  time  in  advance.  In  planting,  if  the  soil  is  fairly  good,  dig 
deeply,  but  avoid  manures.  Such  materials  as  old  lime,  rubble,  or  chalk,  are  most  bene- 
ficial where  there  is  an  absence  of  lime.  In  the  case  of  heavy  clay  ground,  give  drainage 
— such  as  brick  rubble,  and  incorporate  some  lighter  materials.  Burnt  refuse,  road 
scrapings  from  limestone  roads,  and  bone  meal  will  greatly  assist  poor  soil.  Plant  in 
suitable  weather,  and  do  not  finally  nail  up  the  trees  to  walls  until  the  soil  has  settled 
down.  Root  prune  trees  that  grow  too  gross — that  is,  cut  out  a  good  workable  trench, 
say  from  2^  feet  to  3  feet,  and  the  same  depth.  Cut  the  roots  well  under  the  trees, 
and  fill  in  with  some  new  soil,  adding  such  aids  as  advised  above  (not  manures ;  add 
•iiese  to  the  soil  needing  improvement). 

NOVEMBER 

Flower  Garden.— There  will  be  little  to  accomplish  this  month.  Rolling  the  walk  or 
walks  frequently,  the  grass  also,  and  if  at  all  poor  use  a  coarse  rake  or  harrow  over  it,  and 
pull  out  weeds  and  moss.  Place  on  some  fresh  soil  to  which  has  been  added  a  good  por- 
tion of  bone  meal,  say  one-fourth  part,  and  such  materials  as  old  leaf-mould,  marrow  beds, 
burnt  refuse,  and  road  scrapings,  are  excellent.  At  this  dull  season  any  new  work  may 
be  taken  in  hand,  such  as  beds,  walks,  or  borders.  Replant  shrubs,  or  cut  out  and  give 
others  support  if  needed.  Cover  Tea  Roses  with  some  light  litter,  or  anything  that  will 
protect  the  stems  at  the  part  near  the  surface.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  draw  up  soil  over  this 
portion,  as  then,  should  a  severe  winter  cut  down  the  old  growths,  new  ones  will  spring 


CALENDAR   OF   MONTHLY   WORK        503 

up  at  the  base.  Other  Roses  with  fat  shoots  may  be  shortened  a  little  to  make  them 
more  shapely,  but  must  not  be  pruned  until  March. 

Vegetables. —This  work  will  be  one  of  preparation  for  next  season  and  protection 
for  later  supplies.  The  same  advice  with  regard  to  Cauliflower  and  Broccoli  is  more 
necessary  now  than  last  month.  Frost  plays  sad  havoc  with  the  tender  flower ;  it  is 
wise  to  lift  those  plants  with  heads  of  a  fair  size  by  their  roots,  and  lay  them  together 
rather  closely  in  sheds  or  cellars,  and  use  as  desired.  All  vacant  ground  should  now 
be  dug,  and  even  in  the  smallest  garden  trenching  should  not  be  forgotten.  If  the  soil 
is  very  poor  add  manure  liberally  and  double  dig — that  is,  placing  the  manure  under 
the  first  spit  and  digging  the  second,  not  bringing  the  latter  to  the  surface;  it  is 
merely  deep  digging  and  manuring  at  a  depth  of  about  7  inches  to  9  inches  from  the 
surface.  Artichokes  should  be  lifted  and  clamped,  like  Potatoes,  Turnips  stored,  and 
Beetroot  also.  Carrots,  if  large,  are  hardy,  but  worms  and  slugs  injure  them  in  wet 
soils.  Seakale  may  be  covered  over,  and  leaves  or  warm  litter  used  to  start  the  crowns 
into  growth.  Rhubarb  may  also  be  covered  in  this  way,  or  lifted  and  forced  in  a 
warm  cellar. 

Fruit  Garden. — Though  little  can  be  done  but  what  was  advised  last  month,  it  is  well 
to  complete  the  planting.  Early  planted  trees  may  be  nailed  in  their  right  places,  and 
others  that  need  support  in  the  way  of  stakes  must  be  attended  to  without  delay.  De- 
tach small  twiggy  shoots  of  Peach  and  Nectarine  trees  from  the  wall  and  by  doing  this 
the  wood  is  hardened  by  exposure.  At  the  same  time  there  is  no  better  period  of  the 
year  to  get  rid  of  scale  or  other  pests  on  wall  trees.  For  the  former  a  solution  of 
Gishurst  compound,  an  old  remedy  but  a  safe  and  effective  one,  cannot  be  surpassed. 
This  syringed  all  over  the  trees,  and  .the  wall  thoroughly  soaked,  will  kill  the  pest. 
Mildew  is  also  apt  to  reappear  year  after  year,  and  Gishurst  with  sulphur  in  equal 
proportions,  is  an  excellent  dressing.  Trees  in  the  open  that  are  infested  with  American 
blight  should  be  painted  over  with  Gishurst  to  which  has  been  added  soluble  petroleum, 
or  the  latter  may  be  used  alone.  If  petroleum  in  a  soluble  state  is  not  handy,  use  half  a 
pound  of  soft  soap  to  half  a  pint  of  petroleum,  adding  rain  water  to  make  it  weaker,  if 
for  syringing ;  for  use  as  a  paint  on  the  blight,  use  a  paint  brush  and  rub  it  in. 

DECEMBER 

Flower  Garden. — The  last  month  in  the  year  is  a  resting  month.  Get  rid  of  all 
decaying  leaf  matter,  and  whenever  possible  dig  it  in  the  open  ground,  as  this  feeds 
and  sustains  root  growth.  Bulbs  planted  early  in  beds  may  be  too  forward  ;  if  so, 
protect  -them  wilh  cocoanut  fibre  refuse  or  leaf-mould.  All  tender  shrubs  recently 
planted  will  benefit  by  some  loose  litter  being  placed  over  the  roots.  Others  loose 
through  high  winds  may  be  firmed  with  the  heel,  or  the  surface  soil  lightly  rammed. 
Creepers  on  walls  may  be  trained,  and  old  wood  cut  out.  This  applies  more  especially 
to  those  kinds  that  bloom  on  the  young  wood.  Prepare  soil  for  future  use,  and  select 
seeds  needed  for  another  season.  Choose  the  quarters  by  making  a  rough  plan  for 
future  use. 

Vegetables. — Much  the  same  advice  holds  good  as  for  last  month.  Complete  digging 
if  possible.  Make  use  of  old  heaps  of  manure.  Examine  the  root-store  frequently,  and 
turn  out  decaying  matter.  Globe  Artichokes  do  not  winter  well  in  many  gardens.  They 
may  be  protected  by  placing  fine  ashes  over  the  crown.  This  is  better  than  litter ;  the 
latter  in  wet  seasons  often  causes  decay.  Keep  Potatoes  as  cool  as  possible.  Asparagus 
beds  that  need  more  surface  soil  may  now  with  advantage  receive  any  old  compost,  in 
which  a  liberal  portion  of  bone  meal  has  been  added.  Place  this  on  the  beds,  but  all 
weed  growth  should  be  cleared  before  giving  new  soil.  In  severe  weather  roots  that  are 
stored  may  need  more  protection  in  the  shape  of  long  litter. 

Fruit  Garden.— Pruning  will  be  the  most  important  work  needing  attention  at  this 
date.  Wall  trees  should  receive  attention  first,  and  especially  Apricots,  but  here  there 
will  be  little  to  prune  if  stopping  was  carried  out  as  advised.  A  few  main  shoots  may 
need  regulating  to  replace  losses.  Remove  old  ties,  and  cut  away  the  small  spray  made 
late  in  the  autumn.  Peaches  and  Nectarines  should  be  left  until  last,  but  these  and 
Apricots  may  with  advantage  have  new  soil  or  a  surface- dressing,  raking  away  the  old 
soil  and  giving  new,  to  which  has  been  added  a  good  fertiliser.  December  is  not  the 
best  month,  but  there  is  more  time  for  the  work,  which,  if  left  later,  is  often  overlooked. 
Currants  and  Gooseberries  should  be  pruned,  but  where  birds  are  troublesome  delay  the 
work  and  cover  the  trees  with  fresh  lime  and  soot,  when  the  shoots  are  damp.  Old  Apple 
and  Pear  trees  may  be  thinned  out,  removing  all  cross  branches,  but  do  not  shorten 
leading  shoots.  Figs  on  walls  may  need  protection  if  the  shoots  are  detached.  Mat 
them  up  until  the  spring. 


GARDENING   TERMS   EXPLAINED 


Bedding  Out. — This  term  grew  out  of  the  practice  which  obtained, 
about  the  middle  of  the  nineteenth  century,  of  filling  flower-beds  on 
lawns  with  plants  of  one  description,  such  as  Pelargoniums,  Verbenas, 
Calceolarias,  Lobelias,  &c.,  in  the  early  summer,  although,  because  these 
things  were  tender,  they  had  to  be  cleared  from  off  the  beds  in  the 
autumn.  Thus  the  beds  remained  empty  all  the  winter  until  the  practice 
of  filling  them  with  bulbs,  certain  spring-flowering  plants,  and  shrubs, 
became  common  ;  thus  rendering  the  work  of  bedding  only  compulsory 
twice  a  year.  This  practice  is  almost  as  common  now,  but  the 
"bedding"  methods  have  been  greatly  improved. 

Blanching. — To  make  some  vegetables  edible  or  tender  that  would 
not  be  so  naturally,  it  is  needful  to  blanch  them.  This  practice  is 
adopted  with  Celery,  Leeks,  Seakale,  Asparagus,  Cardoons,  and  to  some 
extent,  Rhubarb,  and  a  few  other  things.  When  they  are  fully  exposed 
to  light  and  air  the  stems  are  mostly  green,  and  perhaps  hard  or  bitter 
to  the  taste,  or  generally  not  fit  for  food.  Blanching  is  done  by  either 
putting  these  things  into  a  quite  dark  place,  or  covering  them  up  closely 
in  the  open  air,  so  as  to  exclude  light.  Thus  Celery  is  earthed  up  with 
soil  so  as  to  quite  cover  the  leaf  stems,  and  in  a  few  weeks  the  green 
colour  is  expelled,  and  the  stems  are  white.  They  are  then  also  very 
tender  and  crisp.  Cabbage  hearts  become  blanched  and  tender  when 
hard,  so  also  Lettuce  hearts,  and  Endive,  which  are  so  hard  and  bitter 
when  green  if  covered  up  become  white,  tender,  and  sweet.  Blanching 
is  really  expelling  from  vegetation  the  green  colouring  and  hardening 
matter. 

Budding. — The  practice  needs  some  skill,  but  anyone  with  supple 
fingers  can  soon  learn  to  perform  it.  The  operation  means  taking  from 
one  plant — such  as  a  Rose,  or  an  Apple,  for  instance — a  dormant  leaf 
bud,  with  a  very  small  portion  of  bark  or  rind  attached,  and  placing  it 
on  a  shoot  or  stem  of  another  Rose  or  Apple-stock,  by  opening  the  bark 
of  the  latter  and  placing  the  bud  under  it,  so  that  only  the  bud  germ 
projects,  and  tying  it  in  firmly  and  neatly.  To  do  this  work  successfully 
the  sap  in  both  the  plant  or  tree  from  which  the  bud  is  taken,  as  also 
in  the  stock  to  be  budded,  must  be  active.  Thus,  any  shoot  of  the 
same  season's  growth  on  the  Apple  or  other  fruit  tree  should  be  fit  to 
have  buds  taken  from  it  when  in  leaf,  and  when  fairly  stout  and 
firm  in  the  wood.  Then  the  rind  lifts  freely.  Before  using  the  bud 
any  piece  of  hardwood  in  it  left  in  removing  it  from  the  shoot  must  be 

504 


GARDENING   TERMS   EXPLAINED        505 

carefully  taken  out  with  the  point  of  a  sharp  knife,  but  the  bud  germ 
must  remain  intact  in  the  bud.  In  budding  the  same  freedom  of  sap 
flow  is  essential  in  the  stock. 

Bulbs- — It  is  a  common  error  to  assume  that  all  roundish  roots  are 
bulbs.  Thus  many  class  Crocus,  Gladiolus,  and  other  hard  round  roots 
as  bulbs.  They  are,  however,  simply  corms,  and  they  differ  very  much 
from  bulbs.  A  Hyacinth  has  a  true  bulb  root,  because  it  consists  of  a 
series  of  layers  or  circles  of  flesh  or  scales  that  enclose  the  growing 
germ.  Lilies  have  bulbs,  but  these  are  composed  of  masses  of  small 
or  separate  scales,  all  attached  to  the  centre  by  their  bases.  These  two 
are  excellent  examples  of  true  bulbs.  In  vegetables,  Turnips,  though 
of  bulbous  form,  are  solid  masses  of  flesh  only.  On  the  other  hand, 
Onions  are  true  bulbs. 

Compost. — This  is  a  gardener's  term  for  any  combination  of  soils 
and  manure.  Whilst  generally  applied  to  soil  used  for  potting  plants, 
it  is  equally  used  where  Vine,  Peach,  or  other  special  borders  are 
being  prepared,  of  which  the  natural  soil  is  not  sufficiently  good,  and 
a  combination  of  soils  is  prepared.  An  ordinary  soil  compost  usually 
consists  of  good  loam,  well-decayed  leaf  soil,  old  hot-bed  manure, 
and  sharp  white  sand,  in  diverse  proportions,  and  well  mixed. 
Gardeners  and  florists  of  old  once  held  that  such  strong  elements  as 
dried  blood,  and  other  noxious  matters,  were  good  plant  foods,  but 
these  views  are  not  held  now.  Everything  forming  soil  composts 
should  be  sweet,  free  from  insect  life,  and  thoroughly  aerated.  Such 
composts  should  not  be  allowed  to  become  saturated  with  heavy  rains. 

Cordon. — This  term  is  more  commonly  used  in  gardens  in  relation 
to  trees,  but  it  must  not  be  compared  with  the  term  cordon  as  used  in 
military  language.  In  the  garden  sense  it  implies  a  single  stem  alone ; 
and  if  there  be  more  than  one  stem,  then  the  trees  are  called  double  or 
treble  cordons.  Many  fruit  trees  are  now  grown  as  cordons,  especially 
Apples,  Pears,  and  Cherries.  Any  fruit  that  will  bear  hard  pinching 
of  the  side  roots  makes  a  cordon.  Gooseberries  also  make  capital 
cordons.  The  trees  are  grown  with  the  one  main  stem  or  single 
cordons,  and  side  shoots,  as  they  are  thrown  out,  are  pinched  or  pruned 
in,  so  as  to  induce  the  formation  of  fruit  spurs,  as  without  these  there 
can  be  no  fruitfulness.  Some  cordons  are  trained  to  walls,  some  to 
trellises  in  the  open  ground,  and  some  to  stout  wires  fixed  1 2  inches 
from  the  ground,  and  called  horizontal.  In  planting  against  walls  or 
trellises,  it  is  customary  to  run  the  stems  in  a  slanting  direction  to  give 
them  greater  length. 

Cross  Fertilisation. — This  term  applies  in  all  cases  in  which  the 
pollen  of  one  plant,  if  a  separate  and  distinct  variety,  be  used  to  fertilise 
the  productive  organs  or  pistil  of  another  variety  of  the  same  species. 
Thus  cross  fertilisation  is  practised  by  raisers  of  Sweet  Peas,  Edible 
Peas,  Potatoes,  Begonias,  Chinese  Primroses,  and  indeed  many  things 
growing  in  gardens,  of  which  it  may  be  desired  to  raise  in  that  way 
some  new  and  better  varieties.  Flowers  possess  generally  what  are 
commonly  described  as  male  and  female  organs.  Thus  the  male  element 


506  GARDENING  FOR   BEGINNERS 

is  found  in  the  pollen  powder  encased  in  the  stamens  in  flowers,  and 
the  female  organs  are  the  style  or  pistil,  which  projects  from  the 
centre  of  the  flower.  When  the  pollen  powder  is  placed  by  the  hand 
of  man  on  the  point  of  the  style  or  pistil  that  is  cross  fertilisation.  If 
the  pollen  be  from  the  same  flower  or  plant,  or  is  placed  on  the  pistil 
by  Nature,  that  is  ordinary  fertilisation. 

Cutting's. — Whilst  any  slip  or  young  portion  of  a  plant  may  be 
called  a  "  cutting,"  yet  for  the  specific  purpose  for  which  cuttings  are 
made,  namely  for  propagation  of  plants,  it  is  important  to  make  them 
properly.  Cuttings  are  required  to  perform  certain  functions,  and  for 
that  purpose  they  are  when  made  dibbled  or  set  into  sandy  soil  to  a 
moderate  depth,  so  that  one-third  of  their  length  is  buried.  That  is 
with  the  expectation  that  from  the  cutting-base  roots  will  presently  be 
emitted  and  a  new  plant  formed.  But  Nature  insists  that  the  base  of 
a  cutting  must  be  just  beneath  a  leaf  joint,  so  that  in  making  a 
cutting  it  must  always  have  a  suitable  base  or  bottom.  Two  or  three 
of  the  lower  leaves  should  also  be  removed.  The  sap  stored  in  the 
cutting  is  attracted  by  the  warmth  of  the  soil  to  the  base,  and  a  callus 
is  shortly  formed  over  the  cut  base.  Then  follow  roots,  and  the  plant 
can  sustain  itself.  Were  the  base  half  an  inch  below  a  leaf  joint  that 
portion  would  soon  decay  and  the  cutting  die. 

Deciduous  and  Evergreen.— Whilst  some  trees  and  shrubs  shed 
every  leaf  or  stem  in  the  early  winter,  and  thus  seem  to  go  absolutely 
to  sleep  or  rest,  others  always  carry  their  leafage,  shedding  old  leaves 
in  the  spring,  but  not  before  new  leafage  has  been  formed.  This  is 
the  distinction  between  what  is  known  as  deciduous  and  evergreen 
vegetation.  But  there  are  far  more  trees  and  shrubs  deciduous  or 
entire  leaf  shedders  than  there  are  evergreen  ones.  Of  trees,  the  most 
familiar  of  the  evergreens  are  the  Fir  tribe,  Yew,  and  Evergreen  Oak. 
Of  shrubs,  Holly,  Laurel,  Aucuba,  and  Rhododendron.  Of  deciduous 
trees,  Oak,  Elm,  Lime,  Chestnut,  and  many  others;  and  of  shrubs, 
Lilac,  Flowering  Currant,  Philadelphus,  or  Mock  Orange.  The  Ivy 
is  the  best  known  evergreen  climber,  and  the  Virginian  Creeper  the 
best  known  deciduous  one. 

Dibbling. — In  the  process  of  cropping  a  garden,  a  tool  commonly 
called  a  dibber,  or  dibble,  is  often  used.  It  is  specially  so  when 
Cabbages,  Cauliflowers,  Broccoli,  winter  greens  of  all  descriptions, 
Lettuces,  and  many  other  things,  including  some  flowering  plants, 
are  put  out  from  seed-beds  or  pans  where  they  are  to  grow  and  mature. 
The  instrument  is  commonly  made  from  the  upper  part  of  the  handle 
of  a  spade  or  fork  that  has  been  broken.  Below  the  handle,  the 
pointed  portion  which  is  used  for  dibbling,  that  is,  for  making  holes  in 
the  ground  for  the  roots  of  plants  to  be  inserted,  is  about  12  inches 
in  length.  The  lower  end  or  point  is  made  sharp  or  pointed,  and 
should  be  shod  with  iron  some  6  inches  in  length,  as  the  work  is  more 
satisfactory  and  the  tool  lasts  longer.  Potatoes  are  often  planted  with 
a  dibber,  but  in  this  case  the  implement  is  about  2\  feet  long,  has  a 
cross  handle  1 2  inches  long,  and  a  base  that  is  3  inches  broad,  pointed, 


GARDENING   TERMS   EXPLAINED        507 

and  iron  shod.  It  makes  a  hole  in  the  ground  sufficiently  large  to 
receive  potato  sets,  and  5  inches  deep. 

Division. — Many  plants,  especially  those  of  a  herbaceous  or 
perennial  nature,  are  increased  by  division.  Thus  when  roots  become 
large  and  have  numerous  crowns  or  shoots  resting  in  the  winter,  when 
free  from  stems,  if  these  roots  be  then  lifted  and  divided  into  several 
portions  with  the  aid  of  a  knife  or  sharp  spade,  a  considerable  number 
of  small  but  proper  roots  or  plants  are  thus  formed.  Rhubarb  roots 
propagate  freely  in  this  way,  but  the  operation  is  far  more  in  use  in 
the  hardy  flower-border  where  Phloxes,  Sunflowers,  Peonies,  indeed  so 
many  plants,  can  be  thus  increased.  Divisions  should  always  be  made 
whilst  the  plants  are  at  rest,  but  in  the  case  of  hardy  flowers  perform 
the  operation  early  in  the  autumn,  as  the  divided  roots  become  estab- 
lished again  before  spring  growth  commences.  Division  is  easily  per- 
formed if  common  care  be  exercised. 

Drainage. — This  term  in  gardening  has  various  meanings,  begin- 
ning with  the  putting  of  a  small  quantity  of  well-broken  potsherds  or 
soft  brick  into  the  bottoms  of  pots  to  be  used  for  putting  plants  into, 
or  into  pans  or  boxes  in  which  seedling  plants  may  be  raised,  or  into 
tubs,  &c.,  for  large  plants.  Also  in  the  proper  draining  of  green- 
houses, pits,  forcing-houses,  and  other  garden  buildings,  or  in  the 
proper  drainage  of  gardens,  lawns,  pleasure-grounds,  roads,  paths,  and 
other  garden  features.  All  the  latter  work  is  done  with  the  aid  of 
proper  drain-pipes,  which  readily  carry  off  surplus  moisture  to  suitable 
receptacles  when  drains  are  properly  laid  in  the  ground.  Pot  or  pan 
drainage  is  easily  made  by  the  breaking  up  of  broken  pots  or  pans 
with  a  hammer.  In  doing  this  first  make  some  portions  known  as 
"  crocks."  These  are  pieces  large  enough  to  cover  and  protect  the 
drain-holes  in  the  pots,  i.e.  so  that  the  smaller  bits  laid  on  them  do  not 
pass  through.  It  is  well  always  to  place  a  thin  layer  of  moss  over  the 
drainage  before  adding  soil. 

Drilling. — In  sowing  seeds  of  garden  crops,  especially  of  vege- 
tables, there  are  two  common  methods.  One  is  broad-casting,  which 
means  casting  the  seed  widely  though  as  evenly  as  possible  all  over 
the  portion  of  ground  to  be  sown.  The  other  method  is  "  drilling." 
By  that  shallow  furrows  or  "  drills  "  are  formed  on  the  ground  with  the 
aid  of  a  garden  hoe,  and  at  equal  distances  apart,  or  it  may  be  done 
with  a  small  hand  drill  propelled  on  wheels.  This  makes  a  drill  and 
sows  seed  at  the  same  time.  The  value  of  drilling  is  in  sowing  seeds 
evenly  all  over  the  plot  and  at  equal  depths.  Seeds  are  also  econo- 
mised as  a  smaller  quantity  is  necessary.  When  the  seeds  have 
germinated  the  seedlings  are  easily  seen  in  the  rows,  and  if  weeds  are 
abundant,  all  those  between  the  rows  of  earth  can  be  safely  hoed  up, 
and  those  in  the  rows  can  be  pulled  out  by  hand.  Thus  the  seed 
breadth  is  easily  cleaned,  and  as  there  is  so  much  room  between  the 
rows  the  plants  can  grow  strongly.  Gardeners  generally  sow  most 
seeds  in  drills,  as  this  is  found  the  better  way. 

Espalier. — This  implies  flat  training  of  trees  to  fences,  wire  trellises, 


508  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

or  stakes.  The  term  must  not  be  confounded  with  horizontal  as  applied 
to  trees,  Pears,  chiefly,  in  exactly  the  same  way  on  walls.  Espalier 
is  used  solely  in  relation  to  similar  trees  grown  in  the  open  ground 
away  from  walls.  This  way  of  growing  fruit  trees,  chiefly  Apples  and 
Pears,  is  very  old.  Trees  to  make  espaliers  are  trained  to  have  one 
central  and  erect  stem.  From  this  is  made  to  break  out  branches  on 
either  side  at  intervals  of  about  10  inches,  these  branches  being  trained 
laterally  or  horizontally,  the  lowest  being  about  12  inches  from  the 
ground.  As  they  grow  they  are  either  tied  to  stakes  driven  in  at 
intervals,  or  to  wires  strained  along  the  same  way,  one  above  the  other, 
from  post  to  post.  All  espaliers  are  quite  flat,  and  for  that  reason 
occupy  little  space,  except  lengthwise.  The  branches  may  be  trained 
to  a  great  length,  and  if  properly  pruned  become  very  fruitful. 

Feeding. — The  word  feed  has  just  the  same  application  in  reference 
to  plant  life  as  to  animal  life,  but  the  food  is  absorbed  in  a  different 
way.  Plants  do  not  masticate.  They  have  no  mouths  or  stomachs 
through  which  food  is  converted  into  blood.  Nature  does  the  prepara- 
tion in  the  soil,  when  food,  or,  as  commonly  called,  manure,  is  applied. 
This  food,  if  ever  so  solid  or  dry,  is  dissolved  in  the  soil,  and  converted 
into  liquid  form,  and  in  this  condition  it  is  absorbed  or  taken  up  by  the 
minute  root  hairs  which  coat  small  roots.  Plant  food  must  chiefly 
consist  of  three  elements — phosphate,  potash,  and  nitrogen.  These 
things  are  found  in  various  proportions  in  manures,  and  plants  absorb 
those  most  needed  by  them,  whilst  water  such  as  rains  provide,or  added 
to  the  soil  artificially,  assisted  by  the  bacteria  in  the  soil,  converts 
solids  into  liquids;  the  most  available  manure  or  plant  food  is  that 
given  in  the  form  of  liquid  manure. 

Florists'  Flowers. — That  florists  are  essentially  growers  and  lovers 
of  flowers  goes  without  saying,  and  equally  is  it  true  that  in  a  certain 
sense  all  who  grow  flowers  are  florists.  But  the  above  term  is  used  in 
relation  to  a  small  section  of  flowers,  which  certain  gardeners,  called  in 
earlier  years  "  florists,"  have  in  the  past  specially  cherished  and  im- 
proved with  a  view  specially  to  the  complete  development  of  certain 
points  as  exhibition  flowers.  Flowers  for  exhibition — Auriculas,  Poly- 
anthuses, Tulips,  Roses,  Carnations,  Pinks,  Dahlias,  Asters,  and  many 
other  things  have  been  so  developed.  Florists  have  laid  down  from 
time  to  time  rules  as  to  points  which  particular  flowers  should  possess, 
and  it  has  been  the  aim  of  raisers  to  develop  these  points  to  their 
utmost  limit.  To  myriads  a  flower  is  a  flower  only,  but  to  the  florists 
it  is  a  thing  more  or  less  perfect,  and  the  true  florist  aims  at  per- 
fection. 

Flower  Truss  and  Cluster. — Flowers  are  presented  in  many 
forms.  Some  are  singly  on  stems,  some  in  trusses,  some  in  spikes,  some 
in  racemes,  and  some  in  clusters.  The  "  truss "  is  found  in  Pelar- 
goniums, Verbenas,  Phloxes,  Plumbagos,  and  many  other  plants.  It  is 
produced  by  a  neat  cluster  of  pips  or  individual  flowers  forming  a 
roundish  clump,  and  all,  whilst  having  small  stems  attaching  to  the  base 
of  the  truss,  are  finally  borne  on  a  single  stem.  A  truss  should  be  of 


GARDENING   TERMS  EXPLAINED        509 

such  dimensions  as  to  be  in  proportion  to  the  size  of  each  individual 
pip,  as  may  be  seen  in  the  Zonal  Pelargoniums  in  one  case  and  the 
Verbena  in  the  other.  Whilst  some  may  term  a  truss  also  a  cluster, 
yet  the  two  things  have  a  different  meaning.  Roses  produce  clustering 
flowers,  so  also  Chrysanthemums,  and  some  others,  but  these  are  not 
trusses  on  single  stems,  but  are  several  flowers  on  separate  stems  finally 
uniting  on  one  main  stem.  Crimson  Rambler  Rose  is  a  good  example 
of  clusters  of  flowers. 

Forcing. — This  term  applies  to  placing  of  plants  of  any  description 
in  unusual  heat,  and  thus  compelling  them  to  grow  freely  under  arti- 
ficial conditions.  It  is  usual  in  vineries  to  force  grapes  by  making  the 
houses  very  warm  early  in  the  winter,  and  thus  ripe  fruit  is  produced  as 
early  as  May.  Other  fruits,  such  as  Peaches,  Nectarines,  Cherries,  Pine- 
apples, Melons,  Strawberries,  and  Tomatoes,  are  forced  in  the  same 
way,  and  many  vegetables  and  flowers.  The  term  is  an  appropriate 
one,  because  growth  is  literally  forced  under  the  pressure  of  the  artificial 
heat  in  which  the  products  are  placed.  Many  plants  grown  in  this 
country  have  come  to  us  from  hot  countries,  and  these  it  is  needful  to 
give  artificial  heat  to.  But  that  is  not  forcing,  for,  as  shown,  the  practice 
is  applied  to  plants  it  is  desired  should  make  growth  out  of  their  due 
season. 

Garden  Pots  Measurements.— The  following  is  taken  from  the 
Journal  of  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society r,  and  is  of  interest  to  the 
beginner,  "  What  is  a  48  pot  ?  " 

The  following  is  a  pretty  correct  list  of  the  names  and  sizes  of  pots 
in  the  Midland  counties,  but  let  no  one  be  so  simple  as  to  imagine  it 
holds  good  in  London  or  the  West  or  North  of  England  ;  and  could 
anything  be  more  ridiculous  ? 

A  "  72  "  measures  2    inches  in  diameter. 

A  "large  72"  „  2J  „ 

A  "small  60"  ,,  2f  „  „ 

A  "60"  „  3  „ 

A  "large  60 »  „  3J  „ 

A  "small  54"  „  4  „ 

A  "large  54"  „  4J  „ 

A  "small  48"  „  4|  „ 

A  "48"  „  5  » 

A  "40"  „  $\  „ 

A  "32"  „  6J  „ 

A  "28"  „  7  „ 

A  "24"  „  7j  „ 

A"i6"  „  8J  „ 

"  Giving  a  Shift." — A  phrase  commonly  used  by  gardeners  to 
denote  that  the  plants  have  become  too  large  for  the  pots  they  are  in,  so 
that  repotting  into  others  a  size  larger  is  needful.  In  preparing  to  do 
this  clean  old  and  new  pots  should  be  ready  at  hand,  plenty  of  well- 


510  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

mixed  compost  and  drainage.  Armed  with  this,  proceed  to  turn  the 
plants  out  of  their  now  too  small  pots  by  inverting  each  plant,  tapping 
the  rim  of  the  pot  on  the  edge  of  the  potting-bench  or  table  on  which 
the  work  is  being  done ;  then  carefully  remove  the  drainage  from  the 
bottom  of  the  root-ball,  and  a  little  of  the  top  soil  also.  The  ball  in 
the  potting  process  may  be  buried  rather  deeper  in  the  new  pot  than  it 
was  in  the  old  one,  the  new  compost  being  well  worked  in  round  the 
root-ball  with  the  aid  of  a  stick  to  make  it  firm.  New  roots  are  quickly 
formed. 

Grafting1. — This  operation  is  invariably  performed  in  the  spring, 
just  as  the  sap  is  rising  or  becoming  active.  It  can  be  done  on  small 
stems  or  on  very  large  ones,  such  as  are  found  on  old  trees.  The 
practice  consists  in  placing  a  piece  of  stem  of  one  variety  of  fruit,  that 
may  be  about  six  inches  long,  and  the  size  round  of  a  man's  finger, 
or  less,  on  to  the  crown  of  a  small  stem,  singly,  or  putting  several 
on  to  the  severed  stem  of  a  large  branch.  Grafts,  or,  as  called,  scions, 
should  be  cut  from  their  respective  trees  in  the  early  winter,  be  tied 
in  bundles,  named,  and  then  have  one-half  their  lengths  buried  in 
soil  under  a  north  wall  or  fence.  That  keeps  them  back  somewhat. 
Then  when  wanted  for  use  in  April,  as  that  is  the  best  month  for 
grafting,  they  are  taken  from  the  soil,  cleaned,  and  cut  into  lengths 
of  a  few  inches.  On  one  side  of  the  lower  or  base  end  a  slice  of 
bark  3  inches  long  is  cut  off,  leaving  the  base  end  with  a  point,  or 
wedge-shaped.  Then  the  graft  is  ready  for  insertion  in  the  stock. 
The  head  should  be  clean  cut  off,  and  the  stem  be  quite  free  from 
any  side  shoots  below.  With  a  sharp  knife  a  slit  has  to  be  made  down 
the  bark  of  a  large  stem,  and  that  being  lifted  at  the  edges,  the  slit 
point  of  the  graft  is  forced  firmly  into  the  slit  in  the  stock,  then  tied 
round  tightly,  and  coated  with  either  wax  or  clay  to  exclude  air.  If  a 
small  stock,  then  a  slice  is  taken  off  the  bark  of  that  3  inches  long, 
and  by  an  upward  cut,  so  that  when  the  sliced  end  of  the  graft  is  placed 
on  to  it,  it  fits  evenly.  But  every  care  should  be  taken  that  the  edges 
of  the  bark  on  both  stock  and  scion  meet  on  one  side,  otherwise  there 
will  be  no  union.  Then  the  two  must  be  secured,  tied  with  bast,  and 
the  edges  coated  with  warm  grafting-wax,  or  the  whole  stem  with  clay,  to 
exclude  air  from  the  united  portions.  There  are  other  methods  of 
grafting,  but  this  describes  the  process  generally. 

Hybrid. — This  name  is  one  well  understood  by  botanists,  but  is 
often  misapplied  by  gardeners  and  others.  True  hybrids  are  rare  in 
vegetable  life,  because  they  must  be  the  product  of  two  distinct  species, 
although  of  the  same  family  of  plants.  Quite  different  families  will  not 
intercross,  and  in  those  species  that  will  do  so  there  must  be  something 
similar  in  character.  Thus  if  a  common  Primrose  were  crossed  with  a 
Chinese  Primrose  a  true  hybrid  would  result,  but  no  such  cross  does 
occur.  But  the  common  Primrose  will  cross  with  the  Cowslip,  because 
they  are  closely  allied  species.  When  two  varieties  of  the  same 
species  are  crossed,  such  as  two  Dahlias,  Fuchsias,  Potatoes,  Apples,  or 
any  other  things,  the  product  is  not  a  hybrid  but  merely  a  variety. 


GARDENING   TERMS   EXPLAINED        511 

True  hybrids  are  usually  infertile,  i.e.  do  not  produce  seed.  In  the 
animal  world  the  mule  is  almost  the  only  known  hybrid. 

In-arching1. — This  is  a  processof  propagation  not  commonly  adopted 
except  in  the  case  of  certain  plants  that  have  hard  wood,  such  as  Oranges, 
Camellias,  and  others.  It  is  occasionally  used  in  connection  with  Vine 
preparation.  The  process  necessitates  the  bringing  together  of  two 
branches  of  about  equal  size,  or  a  young  plant  in  a  pot  and  a  branch  of 
an  established  plant.  Just  at  the  place  in  each  case  where  the  stems 
are  to  meet,  a  slice  of  some  3  inches  in  length  is  cut  out  with  the  aid  of 
a  sharp  knife  from  the  sides  of  each  stem.  The  two  cut  surfaces  are 
then  brought  close  together  and  the  two  stems  are  neatly  tied  together 
and  sometimes  clayed  over  or  coated  with  grafting-mat  or  with  moss 
tied  round  them,  and  kept  damp.  In  time,  when  the  two  sections  have 
united,  the  top  of  the  branch  on  the  one  plant  is  cut  off,  and  the  stem 
and  root  of  the  other,  and  thus  a  new  plant  on  an  old  one  is  obtained. 

Layers. — The  propagation  of  plants  by  layers  is  work  that  should 
have  great  attraction  for  the  novice.  It  is  most  practised  on  Carnations 
in  the  flower  garden,  but  many  shrubs  and  trees  can  be  increased  in  this 
way.  To  make  a  layer  it  is  generally  necessary  to  do  more  than  merely 
bury  a  branch  partially  in  the  ground.  When  only  this  is  done,  rooting 
seldom  follows.  It  is  necessary  to  "  tongue "  the  layer  with  a  sharp 
knife.  By  "  tongued  "  is  meant  cutting  a  slit  about  an  inch  long  on 
the  under  side,  and  it  must  pass  half-way  through  the  stem  towards 
the  leaves  or  point,  but  must  not  sever  it  from  the  plant.  When  the 
slit  is  buried  in  the  soil  it  must  be  kept  open.  Sand  placed  round  it 
helps  to  form  roots  later.  Sap  formed  in  the  leaves  becomes  in  its 
return  rootwards  partially  diverted  into  the  tongue  slit,  and  roots  are 
soon  formed. 

Leaf  Mould. — It  is  naturally  assumed  that  this  material  is  the  pro- 
duct of  leaves.  That  is  so,  but  only  of  tree  leaves.  The  best  leaf  mould 
is  made  with  the  leaves  of  hard-wooded  trees  such  as  Beech,  Oak,  Elm, 
Lime,  and  Plane,  and,  if  possible,  for  potting  purposes,  Horse-chestnut 
and  Sycamore  leaves  should  be  avoided.  The  first-named  trees  give 
more  woody  matter  than  the  latter.  Leaves  collected  to  form  mould 
should  be  free  from  other  matter,  and  be  put  into  a  heap  to  decay. 
Put  them  together  whilst  damp,  or  if  dry  then  well  saturate  them  with 
water.  The  heap  must  be  occasionally  turned  and  mixed  to  ensure 
decomposition,  and  to  enable  hard  leaves  to  become  thoroughly  decom- 
posed fully  a  year  is  necessary.  A  good  dusting  of  soot  when  the  heaps 
are  being  turned  helps  to  kill  insect-life.  When  mould  is  quite  formed 
it  may  be  stored  for  use  in  tubs  or  boxes. 

Lean-to. — Many  small  greenhouses,  vineries,  Peach,  Cucumber, 
and  other  forms,  as  well  as  ordinary  plant  glasshouses,  are  built  as  "  lean- 
to's."  Thus  in  good  gardens  it  is  usual  to  see  long  ranges  of  such 
houses  built  to  a  tall  wall  facing  south,  and  behind  facing  north  a  long 
row  of  lean-to  sheds,  stores,  and  other  such  things.  Lean-to  houses 
having  but  one  glass  face,  and  that  to  the  sun,  are  soon  heated,  and 
because  they  have  a  thick  brick  wall  at  the  back  which  absorbs  much 


512  GARDENING  FOR   BEGINNERS 

heat,  cool  slowly.  For  most  fruit-forcing  they  are  best.  In  many  small 
gardens  a  greenhouse  is  built  rather  cheaply  against  a  wall  or  to  the 
side  of  a  house,  and  thus  lean-to's  are  common  in  that  way.  A  frame 
which  has  but  one  slope  is  a  lean-to  in  one  acceptation  of  the  term,  but 
generally  the  description  is  given  to  houses  only.  Small  lean-to  houses 
can  often  be  economically  warmed. 

Loam. — When  advice  is  given  about  potting  composts  or  soils,  it 
is  universally  recommended  that  a  good  proportion  shall  consist  of 
"  turfy  loam."  By  "  turfy  "  is  meant  the  combination  with  the  loam 
of  grassy  matter  such  as  pasture  grass  and  roots,  all  of  which  being  of  a 
fibry  nature  helps  to  keep  the  loam  from  becoming  close  and  hard,  and 
as  it  decays  also  becomes  plant  food.  But  "  loam  "  to  be  so  described, 
must  be  neither  clay,  which  is  close,  sticky,  and,  when  dry,  very  hard, 
nor  sand,  which  is  the  reverse,  as  it  is  always  loose  and  in  fine  particles. 
It  is  a  very  happy  compound  of  both  these  minerals  or  soils,  somewhat 
in  the  proportion  of  two-thirds  clay  to  one-third  sand,  yet  no  human 
agency  seems  able  by  combining  them  to  produce  such  a  remarkably 
well-constituted  material  as  Nature  does  in  good  loam.  It  should  be 
free  from  stone,  and  when  pressed  hard  in  the  hand  be  so  far  free  as  to 
fall  apart  again  at  once.  Turfy  loam  should  be  dug  in  the  winter  in 
spits  of  9  inches  deep,  and  be  stacked  in  heaps,  turf  downwards,  for  six 
months  before  it  is  used. 

Maidens. — A  curious  term  chiefly  used  in  nurseries  where  fruit 
trees  are  largely  raised  every  year.  The  term  is  applied  to  fruit  trees  and 
Roses  grown  from  bud  or  grafts  the  first  year,  and  before  they  have  been 
pruned  in  any  way.  When  nurserymen  offer  fruit  maidens  for  sale,  and 
they  are  then  usually  cheap,  they  mean,  of  course,  single-stem  trees,  quite 
unpruned.  In  the  case  of  trees  from  buds,  the  fodding  is  performed 
the  previous  summer.  The  bud  remains  dormant  all  the  winter,  and 
then  starts  into  growth  \ery  strong  in  the  spring.  As  the  bud  shoot 
extends,  the  top  of  the  stock  on  which  it  is  budded  is  cut  away  until 
nothing  of  it  is  left  above  where  the  bud  shoot  breaks  out.  Very 
frequently  on  good  ground  these  bud  shoots  reach  from  4  feet  to  7  feet 
in  height  that  season.  Good  standards  can  be  made  from  strong 
budded  maidens. 

Marl. — This  substance,  though  much  appreciated  by  gardeners  who 
have  light  soils,  is,  like  clay  and  chalk,  useless  for  potting  purposes. 
But  as  a  dressing  at  the  rate  of  three  barrowsful  per  rood,  applied  to 
light  porous  soils,  it  is  excellent.  It  is  a  combination  of  chalk  and  clay, 
and  in  that  respect  forms  what  may  be  called  a  clayey  compound,  whilst 
its  value  lies  in  its  tendency,  when  well  mixed  after  exposure  for  a 
winter  on  the  surface,  to  make  loose  soils  more  adhesive,  and  the  chalk 
assists  to  create  carbonate  of  lime.  As  an  occasional  dressing  it  is  very 
useful.  Marl  is  found  as  a  subsoil  in  various  localities,  and  in  some 
districts  is  excavated  from  pits.  Pure  chalk  dressings  are  good  for 
heavy  or  clay  soils,  and  clay  dressings  for  light  soils  needing  body  or 
adhesiveness.  All  these  minerals  may  be  applied  moderately  with  good 
results  as  winter  dressings  every  two  or  three  years. 


GARDENING   TERMS   EXPLAINED        513 

Moulding  up. — This  term  is  partially  described  under  the  heading 
"Blanching,"  but  not  fully.  Moulding  up  is  usually  done  to  breadths 
of  Potatoes,  yet  without  any  intention  to  blanch  the  stems.  The 
primary  object  is  to  keep  the  newly-forming  tubers  excluded  from  light 
and  air,  as  when  exposed  they  become  green  and  hot,  and  quite  unfit 
for  food.  Potato  rows  should  be  planted  wide  enough  apart  for  suffi- 
cient soil  to  be  drawn  from  between  the  rows  up  to  the  stem  of  the 
plants,  to  a  height  of  about  4  inches,  as  then  the  tubers  are  well 
covered.  Celery  is  usually  moulded  up,  but  in  that  case  to  blanch  the 
stems.  Earth  is  sometimes  drawn  up  to  rows  of  Peas  and  Beans,  and 
to  Cabbages,  to  help  to  protect  the  stems.  Tea  Roses  are  often 
moulded  up  to  a  height  of  some  6  inches  early  in  the  winter  to  prevent 
injury  from  frost.  Mould  is  another  name  for  soil,  and  moulded  up 
means  earthed  up. 

Own  Root. — The  practice  in  gardening,  and  especially  in  nurseries, 
of  propagating  so  many  things  by  the  artificial  process  of  budding,  graft- 
ing, &c.,  has  made  the  "own  root"  needful  to  distinguish  certain 
plants  or  things  that  may  be  increased  by  cuttings,  layers,  suckers,  or 
seed,  from  similar  things  worked  on  other  roots  or  stocks.  Thus  it  is 
the  practice  to  bud  Roses  largely,  far  more  widely  indeed  than  it  is  the 
rule  to  raise  them  by  cuttings  or  layers.  When  therefore  plants  so 
raised  are  required,  it  is  usual  to  refer  to  them  as  on  their  own  roots. 
Some  Roses  when  budded  suffer  from  the  free  growing  stocks,  producing 
an  abundance  of  suckers.  Roses,  however,  on  their  own  roots  increase 
in  beauty  when  they  produce  suckers,  as  these  help  to  make  strong 
growing  bushes.  Some  Apples  are  obtained  on  their  own  roots,  but  not 
many.  Fruit  trees  rarely  root  as  cuttings,  hence  the  scarcity  of  own 
root  trees,  but  flowering  shrubs  should  be  raised  more  in  this  way. 

Peat. — For  potting  purposes  this  is  a  form  of  soil  indispensable  to 
certain  plants  commonly  called  "  hard-wooded ''  or  shrubby,  such  as 
Camellias,  Azaleas,  Heaths,  and  others,  but  it  is  not  at  all  necessary 
in  the  potting  of  the  greater  number  of  plants  usually  grown  in  green- 
houses. Peat  is  a  vegetable  product,  as  its  texture  shows,  being  com- 
posed so  largely  of  vegetable  fibre,  root,  or  decayed  vegetable  life,  and  is 
generally  associated  with  bogs  or  dried  bogs.  It  should  be  dug  out  in 
sods  or  spits  6  inches  deep,  and  stacked  in  heaps  for  several  months  to 
sweeten  before  it  is  used  for  potting.  There  is  always  associated  with 
it  a  moderate  quantity  of  sand.  Rock  or  bog  plants  naturally  prefer 
it,  and  in  constructing  rock  work  a  good  proportion  of  peat  should  be 
used  when  it  is  intended  to  grow  on  it  such  plants  as  prefer  that  soil. 
Generally  in  potting,  when  used  with  loam,  it  is  in  the  proportion  of 
one-half. 

Pip. — This  term  has  two  distinct  meanings,  one  of  which  applies  to 
seeds,  the  other  to  flowers.  The  seeds  so  designated  are  chiefly  those 
of  Apples  and  Pears,  which  they  very  much  resemble  in  form,  and  have 
from  time  immemorial  been  thus  designated.  But  in  relation  to  flowers 
the  term  is  chiefly  used  to  indicate  the  individual  flowers  which  go  to 
form  a  cluster  or  truss.  Thus  Pelargoniums,  or,  as  generally  called, 

2  K 


5i4  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

Geraniums,  Verbenas,  Phlox,  Drummondi,  Perennial  Phlox,  Auriculas, 
Polyanthuses,  and  many  other  plants  that  thus  produce  their  flowers, 
have  pips.  These  are  sometimes  prized  for  their  size,  their  roundness, 
the  smoothness  of  their  edges,  as  in  Zonal  Pelargoniums,  or  the  fringed 
nature  of  their  edgings,  as  in  Chinese  Primroses.  Some  again  are 
thought  much  of  for  the  substantial  petal  or  colour.  Still  to  each 
separate  flower  on  a  truss,  no  matter  of  what,  the  term  "pip"  is  thus 
applied.  Of  course  they  vary  very  much  in  size  and  form,  but  all 
possess  the  same  name. 

Pointing. — Whilst  digging  is  generally  understood  to  mean  turning 
the  soil  over  the  full  depth  of  a  spade  or  fork,  "  pointing  "  is  work  of 
less  arduous  nature,  and  adopted  chiefly  on  ground  already  cropped. 
It  often  happens  that  ground  between  rows  of  crops  gets  hard  or  runs 
together.  It  is  then  good  practice  to  point  it  over.  That  is  done  with 
a  digging  fork,  which  is  forced  into  the  ground  to  a  depth  of  about 
6  inches,  and  that  portion  of  soil  turned  over  and  made  neat.  Some- 
times a  dressing  of  short  manure,  or  of  leaf  soil,  or  decayed  vegetable 
matter,  or  of  artificial  manure,  has  to  be  first  buried,  and  that  is  done 
by  pointing.  Flower-borders  or  Rose-beds,  which  it  is  not  safe  to  dig 
deep,  can  be  made  to  look  fresh  by  pointing  over  the  surface  with  a  fork, 
as  mentioned.  Again,  ground  dug  in  the  winter  on  which  it  is  intended 
to  sow  or  plant  crops  in  the  spring  is  often  made  more  fit  for  cropping 
if  thus  pointed  over  a  few  inches  deep  first. 

Porous. — Soils  that  are  porous  are  quite  different  to  retentive  ones. 
If  the  latter  retain  water  too  freely,  porous  soils  seem  to  part  with  it 
too  readily.  Still  porous  soils,  because  the  air  can  penetrate  so 
thoroughly  into  them,  are  invariably  sweet,  and  they  can  be  worked, 
that  is,  trenched  or  dug,  at  almost  any  time.  Porous  soils  also  are  warmer 
than  wet  ones,  and  therefore  crops  may  be  sown  or  planted  on  them 
earlier  than  on  retentive  soils.  But  if  porous  or  loose  soils  part  with 
water  readily,  it  is  possible  to  correct  that  defect  in  the  summer,  so  far 
as  atmospheric  absorption  or  radiation  is  concerned,  by  keeping  the 
surface  frequently  stirred  an  inch  in  depth  with  a  hoe,  as  such  loose 
surface  soil  acts  as  a  mould  or  protection  and  helps  the  ground  to  retain 
what  moisture  it  may  possess  in  hot  weather.  Sandy,  peaty,  gravelly, 
and  chalky  soils  are  usually  porous.  They  are,  however,  better  when 
trenched  or  otherwise  deeply  worked. 

Potting  Manure. — Gardeners  who  make  up  hot-beds  with  stable 
manure  prepare  the  manure  by  frequent  turning  and  mixing,  so  that 
there  is  far  less  waste  of  nitrogen  than  when  manure  is  allowed  to 
ferment  rapidly  and  excessively.  The  result  is,  that  when,  some  time 
later,  the  bed  has  served  its  purpose,  the  mass  of  manure  is  so  decom- 
posed and  solid  that  it  cuts  out  almost  like  soil.  Such  material  well 
chopped  or  broken  up,  especially  after  it  has  been  partially  dried,  is 
excellent  to  mix  with  soils,  and  decomposes  so  slowly  that  it  shrinks 
imperceptibly.  Manure,  no  matter  however  short,  mixed  with  potting 
soils  shrinks  or  decomposes  and  leaves  the  soil  in  the  pots  hollow  when 
it  gets  friable.  Many  who  use  potting  compost  in  a  large  way,  when 


GARDENING   TERMS   EXPLAINED        515 

they  have  loam,  build  stacks  of  spits,  with  3  inches  of  fresh  horse  or 
cow  droppings  alternately,  and  leave  the  whole  to  get  incorporated 
several  months  before  mixing  and  using  it. 

Propagation. — This  is  a  term  applied  in  garden  phraseology  to 
the  increase  of  plants  of  all  descriptions,  and  in  many  ways.  Gardeners 
propagate  or  increase  plants  by  seed,  by  tubers  and  bulbs,  by  cuttings, 
by  layers,  by  division,  by  budding,  grafting,  and  in-arching.  All 
depends  on  the  nature  of  the  plants  to  be  increased. 

Pruning. — To  prune  is  to  reduce,  and  in  pruning  a  tree  or  shrub 
or  ordinary  plant  the  object  is  to  reduce  it  for  some  special  reason.  If 
large-growing  forest  trees  are  pruned  it  is  chiefly  done  when  young,  to 
give  proper  shape  and  freedom  to  the  branches.  When  fruit  trees  are 
pruned  the  object  is  similar,  with  the  addition  of  promoting  fruitfulness. 
If  tree  heads  were  allowed  to  grow  untouched  they  would  become  dense 
thickets  of  wood  or  shapeless  masses,  and  produce  only  small  fruit,  or 
none  at  all.  Generally,  pruning  is  done  in  the  winter  when  the  leaves 
have  fallen,  and  in  the  case  of  fruit  trees  in  summer,  when  the  annual 
shoots  being  produced,  these  are  either  pinched  back  to  one-third 
their  length  or  cut  back  to  cause  fruit  buds  to  form  on  the  portion  left. 
Pruning  may  be  done  with  saw  or  knife,  but  properly  with  the  latter, 
because  the  term  really  implies  the  removal  of  useless  or  barren  wood 
from  trees,  and  enabling  fertile  or  cropping  wood  to  take  its  place. 

Pseudo  Bulb. — The  term  bulb  has  been  described,  but  the  Pseudo 
bulb  is  something  in  plants  totally  different.  Pseudo  in  this  case  means 
an  imitation  bulb,  and  is  invariably  found  in  growth  above  the  soil,  or 
rather  in  the  air.  These  pseudo  bulbs  are  almost  exclusively  found  in 
Orchids,  which,  it  may  be  explained,  are  generally  from  warm  countries, 
and  grow  on  tree  stems,  or  branches,  or  on  rocks,  or  in  other  ways 
practically  in  the  air,  with  roots  subsisting  on  atmosphere  and  moisture. 
Under  cultivation  many  of  these  Orchids  are  grown  in  peaty  and  leafy 
soil,  and  in  moss,  but  very  few  in  soil  in  the  way  of  ordinary  plants. 
The  growths  they  send  up  are  invariably  stout,  or  thick  and  very 
fleshy,  and  these  are  termed  pseudo  bulbs,  because  like  terrestrial  bulbs, 
by  which  we  mean  those  which  grow  in  the  earth,  they  contain  a  store 
of  food,  on  which  leaves  and  flowers  subsist,  and  even  help  to  mature 
other  growths  on  the  plants  until  the  bulbs  die. 

Pyramid. — This  word  is  commonly  used  in  relation  to  Pear  trees, 
because  the  pyramidal  is  their  natural  form.  In  the  same  way  we  see 
Apples,  Plums,  Cherries,  and  some  other  fruits,  if  allowed  to  grow 
naturally,  taking  a  broader,  dwarfer,  and  more  bushy  form,  and  these 
are  called  bush  trees.  A  proper  pyramid  has  a  main  or  central  stem 
from  which  the  stems  or  branches  radiate,  the  lower  one  being  the 
longest,  thus  making  the  tree  broadest  there  and  narrower  towards  the 
top.  Fuchsias  usually  assume  the  pyramid  form  and  make  remarkably 
handsome  plants.  Many  others  that  are  not  naturally  of  that  form  are 
trained  to  assume  it  by  tying  and  pinching.  Even  with  Pears  pruning 
and  pinching  are  needful  to  keep  the  form  perfect. 

Retentive. — Soils  generally   have  either  one   or  other   of    two 


516  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

features.  Either  they  are  retentive  or  they  are  porous.  By  retentive 
is  meant  capacity  to  retain  moisture.  This  feature  is  common  to  soils 
that  are  chiefly  composed  of  clay,  or,  in  other  words,  an  excess  of 
loam  with  little  or  no  sand  in  it.  Retentive  soils  are  not  all  so  in  the 
summer  as  a  rule,  for  the  ground  which  holds  the  moisture  most  closely 
in  the  winter  most  readily  parts  with  it  and  becomes  hard  and  baked 
in  the  summer.  The  best  correctives  are  draining  by  means  of  deep 
pipe  drains,  which  carry  off  superfluous  moisture,  or  by  adding  to  the 
soil  a  good  proportion  of  gritty  material,  such  as  road  trimmings,  street 
sweepings,  burnt  clay,  called  ballast ;  straw  manure,  leaf  soil,  or  any 
decayed  vegetable  matter,  as  such  substances  greatly  help  to  keep  the 
soil  open  and  thus  enable  the  moisture  contained  in  it  to  pass  away. 
Wet  soils  are  invariably  sour  and  not  fitted  to  carry  crops. 

Rhizome. — Many  plants  extend  themselves  by  long  fleshy  root-like 
stems  which  run  under  or  partially  on  the  ground,  then  stop  and  throw 
up  a  bud  or  crown,  from  which  new  growth  and  leafage  takes  place.  Such 
stems  are  called  "rhizomes."  Some  plants  through  such  an  agency 
become  a  nuisance  in  gardens,  as  shoots  come  up  in  all  directions. 
That  is  the  case  with  some  of  the  single-flowered  perennial  Sunflowers, 
for  they  will  send  out  such  roots  to  a  length  of  from  3  feet  to  4  feet, 
which  is  inconvenient.  German  Irises  have  very  thick  rhizomatous  stems 
that  run  partly  on  the  surface  of  the  ground,  but  these  do  not  ramble 
much.  Of  the  Primula  family,  P.  cortusoides  and  P.  Sieboldi  have 
rhizome  stems,  also  Solomon's  Seal.  It  is  Nature's  method  of  increase 
or  propagation,  and  as  from  each  new  crown  or  shoots  roots  are  formed, 
separate  plants  can  thus  be  obtained. 

Rod  and  Lateral. — Whilst  these  terms  have  diverse  applications 
they  are  more  generally  used  in  gardening  matters  in  relation  to  Vines 
than  to  any  other  things.  A  Vine  rod  is  the  main  stem  which  is  carried 
up  under  the  roof  of  a  vinery,  and  may  be  represented  singly  or  several 
together.  Sometimes  the  rod  is  carried  lengthwise  of  the  houses. 
Practically  the  rod  is  the  main  stem  of  the  Vine,  and  from  it  breaks 
out  yearly  certain  side  shoots  which  are  called  "  laterals."  By  that  term 
is  implied  a  horizontal  shoot,  or  sideways,  to  the  stem  or  rod.  Lateral 
is  a  convenient  term  for  gardeners  to  apply  to  these  side  shoots  or 
branches.  When  a  Vine  is  properly  pruned  these  side  shoots  are  cut 
back  hard  each  winter,  and  from  the  base  bud  near  the  rod  another 
shoot  or  lateral  breaks  out  in  the  spring.  It  is  these  laterals  which 
carry  bunches  of  fruit  later  in  the  season,  but  practically  any  side  shoots 
which  break  out  from  climbing  plants  in  houses  become  laterals. 

Root-Pruning. — Whilst  anxious  to  induce  trees  to  grow,  we 
should  yet  adopt  the  practice  of  pruning,  and  sometimes  severe  root- 
pruning.  This  is  something  novices  find  difficult  to  understand. 
But  the  practice  is  limited  to  fruit  trees,  and  to  those  only  which  show 
a  tendency  to  produce  shoots  or  growths  freely  but  seldom  produce 
fruit.  But  as  the  object  in  planting  fruit  trees  is  to  obtain  fruit,  the 
only  possible  correction  of  this  unfruitful  habit  consistent  with  keeping 
the  trees  within  due  bounds  is  found  in  pruning  the  roots,  as,  when 


GARDENING   TERMS   EXPLAINED        517 

properly  done,,  the  effect  is  to  check  further  wood  production,  and  to 
cause  the  trees  to  create  fruit  spurs  instead.  Root-pruning  is  usually 
performed  by  opening  trenches  at  moderate  distances  from  the  trees 
sufficiently  wide  and  deep  to  enable  all  roots — large  ones  especially — 
that  may  be  found,  to  be  severed  neatly.  Downward  roots  may  be 
found  by  digging  beneath  the  ball  of  soil. 

Runners. — Through  the  agency  of  runners  several  useful  garden 
plants  are  propagated,  but  none  have  more  value  than  those  of  the 
Strawberry,  as  runners  form  practically  their  sole  means  of  propagation. 
Trailing  shoots  break  from  the  plants  even  whilst  fruit  is  being  formed, 
and  on  the  points  tiny  plants  are  formed.  These  soon  get  root-hold  of 
the  soil,  and  from  these  go  out  another  long  shoot,  and  a  second,  and 
sometimes  a  third  or  fourth  plant  is  thus  created.  Violets  can  be 
increased  in  the  same  way  by  runners,  although  these  do  not  root  so 
readily  in  the  soil  as  Strawberries.  One  of  the  Saxifrages  called 
"  Mother  of  Thousands  "  throws  out  many  such  runners.  Ivies  on  the 
ground  will  increase  and  spread  through  a  somewhat  similar  agency;  so 
also  will  some  troublesome  weeds.  In  the  case  of  such  plants  as  the 
Strawberry  runners  are  a  blessing,  but  in  others  are  garden  pests. 

Shading. — There  are  times  when  many  plants  that  generally  seem 
able  to  endure  any  amount  of  warmth  require  shading.  Thus  it  is 
common  practice  where  Orchids  and  plants  that  delight  in  heat  are 
grown  to  shade  the  houses  they  are  in  during  the  heat  of  the  day  in 
summer.  Plants  in  an  ordinary  greenhouse  also  need  shelter  from  the 
sun  during  portions  of  the  day.  Cuttings,  or  newly-planted  things  of 
any  description,  often  need  some  temporary  shading,  if  given  only  with 
newspapers.  House  shading  is  best  furnished  by  blinds  made  of  some 
woollen  material,  such  as  Tiffany,  attached  to  wood  rollers  fixed  to  the 
ridge  of  the  house,  and  which  can  be  drawn  up  or  down  when  neces- 
sary. This  enables  the  gardener  to  remove  shading  quickly  when  the 
weather  is  cloudy.  Some  shade  their  glasshouses  in  summer  by  coat- 
ing the  glass  with  a  thin  solution  of  milk  and  blue.  It  does  very  well 
for  Ferns,  but  often  makes  the  house  too  dark  in  cloudy  weather. 

Silver  Sand. — This  term  is  applied  to  white,  sharp,  or  gritty  sand 
containing  no  clay  or  adhesive  properties.  Coloured  sands  are  usually 
composed  of  a  certain  proportion  of  clay,  and  after  being  damped, 
become  hard  or  baked  whilst  drying.  All  such  sands  should  be  care- 
fully avoided.  Florists  who  supply  potting  sand  invariably  obtain  a 
pure  white  gritty  sand.  Sometimes  ordinary  road  grit  may  be  used  in 
potting  composts  or  for  rooting  cuttings  in  place  of  sand.  For  such  a 
purpose  the  best  is  that  formed  in  gulleys  or  road  drains  after  a  heavy 
rainfall,  as  the  residue  has  the  clay  invariably  found  in  road  sand 
washed  out  of  it.  Where  common  road  sand  has  to  be  used,  put 
some  in  a  bucket,  nearly  fill  it  with  water,  and  stir  well  to  loosen  the 
clay  particles,  which  are  lighter  than  the  grit  is ;  then  pour  off  the 
water.  Repeat  the  process  several  times,  and  the  residue  when  dry 
will  be  found  a  clean  sharp  grit. 

Span-roof. — There  are  few  houses  erected  of  wood  or  iron  and 


518  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

glass,  or  even  frames  for  the  housing  of  plants,  that  do  not  come  under 
the  designation  of  span-roof  or  lean-to.  Span-roof  means  a  roof  having 
equal  sides  and  sloping,  so  that  a  ridge  runs  through  the  centre.  The 
advantage  derived  by  plants  growing  in  a  span-roof  house  is  that  they 
have  light  all  round  them.  The  disadvantage  of  such  houses  is  that, 
having  glass  nearly  all  over  them,  they  soon  get  cool,  and  thus  need 
ample  fire  heat.  Span-roof  houses  may  be  tall  and  broad,  such  as  are 
large  conservatories  or  vineries,  or  low  and  narrow,  such  as  forcing 
Melon  or  Cucumber  houses.  The  path  or  alley  affording  access  to  the 
house  is  in  the  centre.  What  is  known  as  three-quarter  span  is  a 
house  that  has  on  one  side  a  sloping  roof  of  the  usual  half  width  of 
the  house,  and  on  the  other  only  a  quarter  of  the  house  width,  where  it 
meets  a  wall.  There  is  no  better  or  more  common  plant  house  than  is 
the  full  span-roof. 

Spawning. — Gardeners  use  this  term  chiefly  in  relation  to  mush- 
room culture.  Mushroom  spawn  is  purchased  in  the  form  of  cakes  of 
dry  soil  and  manure,  which,  whilst  in  a  fresh  or  moist  condition,  has 
been  "spawned"  to  render  them  useful.  Spawn  is  the  fine  thread- 
like roots  or,  as  usually  called,  Mycelium  of  the  Mushroom  fungus, 
and  the  instrument  of  propagation.  Small  quantities  of  this  root — 
mycelium — are  placed  in  the  centres  of  the  spawn  cakes  whilst  yet 
moist ;  they  are  then  stood  in  a  warm  place,  with  the  object  of  in- 
ducing this  mycelium  to  spread  through  the  cakes,  after  which  the 
cakes  are  stored  for  future  use  when  dry.  Spawning  is  done  after  a 
bed  of  manure  has  been  made  up  and  has  become  warm,  as  then,  if 
each  of  these  spawn  cakes  be  broken  up  into  several  pieces  and  thrust 
into  the  bed,  the  mycelium  soon  runs  into  the  manure.  Later  on, 
after  the  bed  has  been  watered  and  coated  over  with  soil,  Mushrooms 
come  up  thickly,  as  the  result  of  the  spawning.  Spawn  cake  must  be 
made  every  year.  If  too  old  it  becomes  useless. 

Species. — All  vegetable  life  is  divided  into  families,  or  genera^  as 
the  botanists  say,  and  in  each  family  there  are  many  members  or 
"  species."  Thus  every  distinct  member  of  any  of  these  families  is  a 
species,  and  has  its  specific  as  well  as  family  name.  Thus  if  the 
Primrose  family,  which  has  members  all  over  the  world,  be  used  for 
illustration,  we  see  them  all  classed  botanically  under  the  family  name 
of  Primula.  Now  the  common  Primrose  of  our  woods  is  Primula 
vulgarity  a  distinct  species.  The  Cowslip  is  P.  veris,  whilst  the  tender 
Chinese  Primrose  is  P.  sinensis,  or  Chinese.  There  are  scores  of  other 
Primrose  species.  The  secondary  name  given  to  species  is  usually 
determined  by  its  general  character  or  place  of  growth.  Thus  Primula 
minima  is  so  called  because  it  is  so  small,  and  P.  marginata  because 
its  leaves  are  margined  with  yellow,  and  so  on. 

Spikes,  Racemes. — By  the  term  "  spikes  "  is  meant  a  cluster  of 
flowers  gathered  on  a  single  stem,  long  and  somewhat  pointed  in  form 
rather  than  rounded,  as  in  a  truss.  Hollyhocks,  Snapdragons,  Pen- 
stemons,  Veronicas,  all  have  spikes,  and  in  very  pronounced  form. 
Spikes  should  be  erect  or  stiff,  and  well  held  up  by  the  stems  on  which 


GARDENING   TERMS   EXPLAINED        519 

they  are  supported.  The  common  Foxglove  of  the  woods  furnishes 
another  excellent  illustration  of  what  a  spike  is.  But  "  racemes  "  are 
large  clusters  of  flowers,  which  hang  somewhat  loosely  or  pendant, 
such  as  may  be  found  in  Laburnum,  Wistaria,  Flowering  Currant, 
Fuchsia,  Orchids,  as  the  Odontoglossum,  and  other  plants.  There  is 
much  grace  and  beauty  about  a  tree  or  plant  that  bears  racemes, 
because  of  their  drooping  expression.  Some  plants,  such  as  Sea 
Lavenders,  produce  stiff  or  erect  racemes. 

Sport. — This  term  indicates  something  in  plants  out  of  the  common, 
and  because  so  it  is  held  to  be  a  sport  or  abnormal.  Thus  there  are 
plants  that  occasionally  break  into  diverse  forms  on  one  or  most  of 
their  branches.  Sports  frequently  occur  in  Chrysanthemums,  for  whilst 
growth  and  leafage  may  not  differ,  one  branch  on  a  plant  will  produce 
a  flower  of  totally  diverse  colour  from  that  of  the  original.  Scores  of 
distinct  Chrysanthemums  have  been  in  that  way  created.  The  change 
or  sport  is  perhaps  due  to  some  retention  in  the  plant  of  certain 
characters  of  its  progenitors  or  parents.  Green-leaved  Zonal  Pelar- 
goniums used  to  sport  frequently  and  produce  Silver  and  Golden 
variegated  forms.  Fuchsias  have  done  the  same  thing,  producing 
diverse  flowers  or  foliage.  It  is  very  difficult  to  account  for  these 
variations,  and  because  they  show  certain  evidence  of  what  may  be 
called  eccentricity  in  plants,  chiefly  so  because  of  our  ignorance  of  the 
causes,  these  breaks  have  been  called  "  sports." 

Spurs. — This  appears  to  be  an  odd  name  to  give  to  any  part  of  a 
tree,  but  is  a  familiar  term  to  gardeners,  and  means  the  small  clusters 
of  growths  which  proper  pruning  or  pinching  of  shoots  will  promote  on 
tree  branches,  but  will  not  produce  shoots,  only  flower-buds,  or  ultimately 
fruit.  A  common  method  of  creating  spurs  on  trees  is  by  the  process 
of  summer  pruning.  Thus  tree  branches  which  annually  throw  a  lot  of 
summer  shoots  or  growths  are  seldom  fruitful.  The  gardener  seeks  to 
correct  that  fault  by  pinching  or  cutting  back  these  shoots  at  the  end 
of  July  or  early  in  August,  to  some  four  or  five  leaf  buds.  Possibly  the 
first  bud  will  make  a  little  growth.  If  so,  that  can  be  pinched  to  one 
leaf.  The  lower  buds,  in  the  meantime,  go  through  a  process  of  change, 
and  partially  become  converted  to  fruit  buds.  If  the  stump  be  cut  back 
to  two  buds  only  in  the  next  winter,  those  buds  will  become  fruit  buds 
or  spurs  the  next  summer,  and  the  following  year  will  produce  bloom 
and  fruit. 

Standard. — Whilst  this  term  has  usually  many  uses  in  gardening, 
it  is  almost  exclusively  applied  to  those  trees  or  plants  that  are  trained 
to  have  heads  on  a  tall  clean  stem.  By  clean  stem  is  meant  one 
that  is  free  from  stocks  or  branches  for  a  space  of  several  feet.  The 
standard  form  is  conspicuous  in  grass  fruit  orchards,  where  Apples, 
Pears,  Plums,  and  Cherry  branches  are  supported  on  tall  clean  stems 
out  of  the  reach  of  cattle.  Half-standards  are  trees  the  stems  of  which 
are  only  from  3  to  4  feet  in  height.  These  are  generally  grown  in 
gardens.  Fuchsias  are  often  grown  as  standards,  and  very  handsome 
they  are  when  in  bloom  Roses  as  standards  are  common,  but  not 


520  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

always  handsome.  Some  make  fine  heads,  others  very  poor  ones.  To 
make  Rose  standards  tall,  stout  briar  stocks  have  to  be  obtained,  planted, 
and  budded  high  up  the  following  summer.  Orange  trees  are  often 
grown  as  standards. 

Stocks. — This  term,  as  used  in  this  instance,  does  not  apply  to 
certain  perennial  flowering  plants  so  well  known,  but  to  all  descriptions 
of  hard  stems  and  roots  used  for  the  propagation  or  increase  of  fruit 
trees,  Roses,  and  many  other  things.  Stocks  are  not  used  to  impart 
beauty  to  Roses  or  size  or  flavour  to  fruits.  They  are  employed  because 
through  their  agency  the  respective  varieties  can  not  only  be  rapidly 
increased,  but  be  perpetuated  for  many  years.  Many  stocks  also  exert 
a  certain  influence  on  the  Rose  or  fruit  grafted  upon  them.  Roses  are 
budded  on  to  stocks  of  an  allied  nature,  such  as  are  raised  from  the 
British  Briar,  or  from  the  Manetti.  They  are  obtained  by  seed, 
suckers,  and  cuttings,  and  when  of  suitable  dimensions  and  well  rooted 
are  used  for  budding  with  Roses  of  many  descriptions.  In  the  case  of 
fruits  the  common  Crab  or  ordinary  Apple  pips,  Pear  seeds,  Plum 
stones,  Cherry  stones  are  made  the  means  of  raising  enormous  quan- 
tities of  young  stocks  on  which  to  bud  these  respective  fruits  and 
others,  and  thousands,  one  might  almost  say  millions,  of  Paradise  for 
Apples  and  Quince  for  Pears  are  raised  by  cuttings  and  suckers. 

Stove. — A  glass-house  in  which  the  night  temperature  during 
winter  is  maintained  at  50°  F.  to  55°  F.,  and  in  summer  10°  to  20° 
higher.  Used  for  cultivating  tropical  plants,  usually  called  stove 
plants. 

Suckers. — Many  plants  have  a  way  of  increasing  themselves  by 
throwing  up  shoots  or  growths  from  the  roots.  These  are  called 
"suckers,"  and  amongst  fruits  we  have  excellent  instances  in  Rasp- 
berries. Many  things  will  throw  up  suckers,  as,  for  instance,  Wild 
Rose  stocks,  or  Manetti  stocks,  on  which  good  Roses  have  been  budded, 
and  these,  if  not  carefully  and  promptly  removed,  quickly  become  a 
nuisance.  Small  Nuts  and  Filberts  throw  up  numerous  suckers  from 
the  roots  if  left  alone.  Things  of  this  character  can  be  propagated  by 
such  suckers  if  they  be  got  out  with  roots  attached.  Some  Plums  and 
Damsons  throw  up  suckers  freely,  but  these  should  always  be  sup- 
pressed. Whilst  suckers  are  out  of  place  in  the  case  of  Gooseberries 
and  Red  Currant  bushes,  they  are  useful  in  Black  Currants  as  helping  to 
perpetuate  them. 

Thinning. — When  this  takes  place,  it  is  often  needful  to  use  a 
small  saw,  and  thus  cut  out  large  branches  close  to  a  main  stem, 
especially  such  branches  as  may  be  crowded  or  cross  each  other.  When 
such  thinnings  take  place  the  branch  should  always  be  cut  off  close  to 
the  main  stem,  the  wound  pared  over  with  a  knife,  and  then  touched 
over  with  Stockholm  tar.  Such  wounds  soon  heal.  There  is  yet  another 
interpretation  of  thinning,  and  that  is  applied  to  beds  or  rows  of 
seedling  plants  that  have  come  up  quickly  and  need  early  thinning  to 
promote  strong  growth.  This  work  is  always  necessary  in  the  case 
of  Carrots,  Onions,  Beet,  &c.,  for  example. 


GARDENING   TERMS  EXPLAINED        521 

Thrum  Eye — Pin  Eye. — It  is  necessary  to  place  those  terms 
together ;  they  are,  however,  seldom  used  except  by  the  "  florist." 
Certain  flowers,  Auriculas  and  Polyanthuses,  in  particular,  are  assumed 
to  possess  certain  properties  or  requirements  to  enable  them  to  pass  the 
judges  at  exhibitions,  and  whilst  a  primary  requirement  is  found  in 
"  thrum  "  eyes,  pin  eyes  are  grave  faults.  By  "  thrum  "  is  meant  the 
cluster  of  stamens  or  pollen-cases  in  the  mouth  of  certain  flowers. 
Wherever  these  are  prominent,  that  is  to  say,  fill  the  cap  or  centre  of  a 
flower,  the  style  or  pistil,  which  is  in  other  words  the  //«,  does  not 
project  but  is  low  down  in  the  throat.  This  thrum  invariably  proves  a 
most  pleasing  and  attractive  feature  in  any  of  these  flowers.  When, 
however,  as  often  happens  in  seedlings,  the  anthers,  or  thrum,  or  cluster 
of  pollen-cases  is  low  down  in  the  throat,  then  the  point  of  the  style 
projects  and  is  called  a  "  pin  eye."  This  is  of  little  consequence  in  a 
border  flower,  but  is  a  grave  fault  in  one  for  show. 

Top  Spit. — Many  beginners  in  gardening  are  puzzled  by  the  use  of 
strange  terms.  The  term  "  top  spit "  is  simple  enough,  but  to  the 
beginner  in  gardening  needs  explanation.  It  applies  to  the  soil  or 
ground  when  it  is  being  dug  or  trenched.  Thus  when  a  spade  or  fork 
is  forced  its  full  depth  into  the  ground  and  all  the  soil  it  can  lift  is  so 
treated,  that  is  called  the  top  spit ;  for  by  spit  is  meant  that  depth  of 
soil  a  spade  or  fork  lifts  when  used  in  digging,  trenching,  &c.  But  the 
term  is  commonly  applied  to  soil,  whether  loam  or  peat,  that  may  be 
dug  and  stored  for  the  potting  of  plants.  Thus  if  loam,  the  part  advised 
to  be  so  stored  is  the  "  top  spit,"  or  first  or  surface  depth  of  from  6  to 
12  inches  as  it  may  be  thin  or  deep,  poor  or  good,  including  the  turfy 
surface  if  the  soil  be  taken  from  an  old  pasture  or  meadow.  That  or  a 
top  spit,  if  peat,  should  be  stacked  with  the  herbage  downwards  in 
a  good  heap  for  several  months  to  enable  the  grass  to  decay  before  it 
is  used. 

Trellis. — Almost  any  open  structure  to  which  trees  or  plants  are 
tied  or  trained  may  be  called  a  trellis.  Some  are  composed  of  wood, 
especially  such  as  have  diamond-shaped  openings,  a  favourite  way  to 
make  screens  or  sides  of  summer-houses.  For  fruit  trees,  such  as 
Raspberries,  Gooseberries,  Currants,  Apples,  Pears,  the  trellises  are 
often  made  of  stout  wire.  It  is  necessary  to  fix  at  either  end  straight 
oak  posts  firmly  in  the  ground,  to  which  the  ends  of  the  lengths  of 
wire  are  fixed  by  means  of  screws,  so  that  they  can  be  drawn  up  tightly. 
Such  trellises  may  consist  of  from  three  to  six  wires,  and  reach  to  heights 
of  from  4  to  6  feet,  according  to  the  purposes  to  which  they  are  put. 
Supports  have  to  be  placed  to  the  wires,  about  10  feet  apart.  To  these 
wires  the  trees  or  bushes  are  tied.  Similar  trellises  may  be  made  of 
strips  of  wood,  but  they  are  less  enduring.  Garden  walls  are  often 
trellised  with  small  wire  fixed  close  together,  to  which  the  trees  are  tied 
rather  than  nailed  to  the  walls. 

Trenching. — Whilst  no  term  can  well  be  more  familiar  to  all  than 
digging,  for  to  dig  in  some  fashion  seems  to  come  to  us  by  nature, 
to  trench  is  a  more  laborious  and  practical  matter.  It  means  double 


522  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

digging  or  deep  working  of  the  soil.  It  is  generally  thought  by  amateur 
gardeners  or  beginners  sufficient  to  dig  ground  for  garden  purposes  some 
10  to  12  inches  deep.  Gardeners,  however,  know  better,  as  experience 
shows  that  ground  double  dug  or  trenched  gives  by  far  the  best  crop. 
Trenching  should  be  done  during  the  winter  when  some  garden  ground 
is  vacant.  To  do  this  properly  a  trench  2  feet  wide  and  i  foot  in 
depth  should  be  thrown  out  half-way  across  a  plot  of  vacant  ground. 
Then  the  broken  soil  must  be  broken  up  another  12  inches  deep  with 
a  spade  or  fork,  and  left ;  the  top  1 2  inches  of  the  next  2  feet  trench- 
ing being  thrown  on  to  that,  and  the  bottom  soil  broken  also.  The 
entire  piece  of  ground  should  be  thus  treated.  When  ground  has  been 
so  served  two  or  three  times  the  bottom  may  be  brought  to  the  top,  as 
it  is  then  fertile. 

Tubers  consist  of  a  mass  of  fleshy  or  starchy  matter  stored  up  by 
plants  in  roots,  or  root  tubers  as  they  are  called.  These  tubers  increase 
in  size  as  the  plant  grows,  and  when  the  plant  ceases  to  grow  they 
mature  or  ripen.  They  can  then  be  lifted  from  the  ground,  be  stored 
in  a  dry  place  for  the  winter,  and  if  in  the  spring  placed  in  warmth 
and  damped,  they  send  forth  numerous  shoots.  These  can  be  in  part 
cut  off  and  inserted  in  sandy  soil  as  cuttings,  the  rest  remaining,  and 
the  tubers  being  divided,  each  portion  forms  a  separate  plant.  Dahlias 
have  tuberous  roots  all  attached  to  one  crown,  Salvia  patens  the  same ; 
Begonias  and  Gloxinias  have  solid  tuberous  or  fleshy  roots.  Potatoes 
and  Artichokes  have  starchy  roots  good  as  food,  and  for  propagation 
many  wild  plants  have  tubers,  such  as  Buttercups,  Orchids,  &c.  Many 
Anemones  and  the  florist's  Ranunculus  have  tuberous  roots  also,  gener- 
ally differing  in  form  only. 

Variety. — This  name  is  applied  to  flowers,  fruits,  and  vegetables 
that  are  neither  species  nor  hybrid.  Thus  Senator  and  Dr.  Maclean  are 
varieties  of  Peas,  Snowdrop  and  Up-to-Date  are  varieties  of  Potatoes, 
Ailsa  Craig  and  Main  Crop  varieties  of  Onions,  and  so  on.  If  a 
collection  of  quite  diverse  flowers,  fruits,  or  vegetables  be  arranged  for 
at  a  show  the  term  "kinds"  should  always  be  used  to  show  that  two 
or  more  varieties  of  the  same  thing  cannot  be  staged.  Many  troubles 
arise  at  shows  because  such  wording  is  not  used. 


ITEMS   OF   INTEREST 


Bamboo  Blinds. — These  are  usually  made  of  split  bamboos,  bound 
together  by  kemoetic  twine,  and  are  exceedingly  light  as  well  as 
strong,  and  may  be  easily  rolled  up.  The  bamboo  blinds,  which 
are  imported  from  Java,  and  made  by  coolies,  are  not  very  expensive. 
In  Holland  they  are  superseding  the  olden  wooden  blinds.  The  best 
means  of  shading  plant  houses  and  of  giving  temporary  protection 
from  early  frosts  to  outdoor  crops  are  subjects  upon  which  the  last 
word  has  by  no  means  been  spoken,  and  it  is  right  that  attention 
should  be  drawn  to  these  bamboo  blinds. 

Blue  Hydrangeas. — It  is  well  known  that  this  noble  shrub  has 
the  peculiarity  of  changing  its  normal  pink  colouring,  under  certain 
conditions  of  soil  and  situation,  to  a  blue  of  varying  quality  and 
intensity.  The  strange  thing  is  that  the  blue  colouring  is  not  a  matter 
of  soil  alone.  We  have  ourselves  grown  plants  from  cuttings  from 
bushes  whose  flowers  were  of  a  strong  blue.  In  the  hope  of  retaining 
the  blue  colour  we  even  had  some  of  the  actual  soil  in  which  they  came 
so  blue  sent  to  fill  two  tubs.  This  was  from  a  place  in  Sussex,  about 
10  miles  from  the  sea;  the  soil,  a  stiff  loam,  almost  clay,  containing  a 
good  deal  of  iron;  the  place  to  which  they  were  removed  being 
45  miles  from  the  sea,  nearly  half-way  between  London  and  Ports- 
mouth, but  here  the  Hydrangeas  flowered  pink,  without  a  trace  of 
blue.  The  commonly  accepted  recipes  for  inducing  the  blue  colour — 
iron  filings  and  alum — we  have  also  tried,  the  result  being  a  change  of 
colour  certainly,  but  only  to  a  muddled  mixture  of  bad  pink  and  greyish 
purple.  This  was  tried  on  two  tub  plants,  one  of  them  being  one 
of  the  Sussex  plants  in  the  Sussex  soil.  The  soil  of  the  other  tub  was 
a  mixture  of  about  two  parts  peat  and  one  part  loam,  with  some  old 
hot-bed  manure.  These  plants  recovered  after  a  year  or  two  and  became 
clear  pink  again.  The  muddled  between-colours,  such  as  anyone  can 
get  by  the  recipes,  are  of  no  use  whatever ;  the  good  clear  pink  is  lost, 
and  nothing  but  ugliness  is  gained.  The  blue  must  be  a  good  blue,  or 
we  would  have  none  of  it. 

Botanising  Injudicious. — Botany  is  outside  the  scope  of  this 
book,  but  it  is  well  never  to  miss  an  opportunity  of  deploring  in- 
judicious collecting  of  rare  wild  flowers.  The  true  botanist  is  never 
to  be  feared,  but  what  indeed  to  be  dreaded  is  the  host  of  eager  young 
collectors,  abounding  in  zeal  but  wanting  in  discretion  and  discrimi- 
nation, that  descend  upon  our  precious  wastes  and  woodlands  like  a 
swarm  of  hungry  locusts,  devouring  and  destroying  by  tearing  up 

523 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

beautiful  and  perhaps  rare  vegetation,  of  which  not  one  item  in  ten 
will  be  put  to  any  good  use.  Sometimes  the  waste  is  quite  wanton, 
for  nothing  is  more  frequent  in  the  case  of  Bluebells  than  to  see 
on  the  ground  gathered  handfuls  that  have  been  idly  picked  and  then 
flung  away.  Many  thoughtless  people  say  that  picking  flowers  does 
no  harm  if  the  plants  are  left,  forgetting  that  if  the  flower  is  taken  the 
plant  can  form  no  seed.  From  this  cause  many  copses  where  a  few 
years  ago  Primroses  were  in  tens  of  thousands  have  now  but  few,  and 
in  a  few  years  will  have  none  at  all.  Legitimate  botanical  study  in  the 
field  is  well  enough,  but  our  flora  is  too  precious  to  expose  to  the 
thoughtless  collecting  by  those  to  whom  "  botanising "  is  perhaps  a 
mere  passing  fancy.  It  has  suffered  much  in  the  past — so  much  so 
that  many  beautiful  flowers  are  almost  extinct. 

Bulbs,  Planting  in  Grass. — Here  are  answers  to  two  very  practical 
questions  about  this:  (i)  An  important  one,  where  bulbs  by  the 
thousand  or  ten  thousand  are  concerned,  is  how  to  plant  the  bulbs 


FIG.  67. — Diagram  showing  general  method  of  planting  bulbs  in  grass  in  long  drifts. 
The  outer  hard  line  is  only  a  guiding  line  to  be  temporarily  marked  by  rope 
or  whiting. 

easily  and  expeditiously  and  yet  suitably.  (2)  What  will  happen  to 
them  when  planted,  if  sheep  and  cattle  come  their  way.  There  is  a 
classical  authority  for  believing  that  the  domestic  cow  can  be  induced 
to  eat  the  pretty  Cowslip ;  will  she,  even  without  encouragement,  lunch 
off  Chionodoxa  Ludllice  and  dine  on  Narcissus  poeticus  ?  Or  can  these 
and  such  like  bulbs  be  planted  with  safety  not  only  in  orchards  and 
copses,  but  in  parks  and  meadows  ?  As  for  the  shape  of  the  planting, 
there  can  be  little  doubt  that  in  fair-sized  spaces  the  most  pictorial 
effect  is  gained  by  planting  in  long  drifts,  something  like  the  way  leaves 
are  blown  into  drifts  along  road  edges  or  on  to  the  ground  that  lies  in 
long  informally  parallel  ridges.  Or  imagine  some  very  long  slender 
fish,  20  to  50  feet  long,  with  pointed  tails  as  well  as  heads  laid 
irregularly  on  the  ground  with  their  heads  all  one  way,  or,  better  still, 
look  at  the  illustration.  For  the  actual  manipulation  sticks  could  be 
placed  at  the  ends  where  dots  are  shown,  and  ropes  laid  to  show  the 
outside  of  the  drifts,  and  two  or  three  bulbs  put  into  spade  cuts  any- 
where within  the  limits.  Or  the  turfing  "racer"  can  be  run  along  one 


ITEMS   OF   INTEREST  525 

edge  and  the  turfs  hitched  back  to  a  rope  line  on  the  other.  The  lines 
could  also  be  marked  with  a  little  whiting  and  water  with  a  tennis- 
court  marker.  If  the  whole  turf  is  not  raised  the  spade  should  make 
two  cuts,  then  a  V  of  turf  and  earth  lifted  would  make  a  space  to  take 
two  or  three  or  more  bulbs,  according  to  size.  It  is  always  a  little 
difficult  to  plant  bulbs  otherwise  than  too  formally,  and  also  somewhat 
difficult  to  explain.  One  way  is  to  throw  the  bulbs  on  to  the  ground 
and  to  plant  them  exactly  where  they  fall.  An  attempt  should  be 
made  to  plant  the  middle  regions  of  the  groups  thickest,  giving  the 
effect  of  an  established  nucleus  from  which  seed  has  spread.  The  inner 
dots  on  one  drift  in  the  diagram  will  show  what  is  meant.  Daffodils 
have  a  poisonous  quality,  and  are  generally  avoided  by  cattle  in  pastures, 
but  the  dried  leaves  in  hay  are  quite  harmless. 

Camellias  for  Planting  Outdoors. — As  considerable  interest  has 
been  taken  of  late  in  the  Camellia  as  an  outdoor  shrub  the  following 
few  facts  may  be  useful.  They  are  the  outcome  of  Mr.  Scrase-Dickens' 
experience,  an  amateur  gardener  who  writes  with  authority.  The  best 
Camellias  for  planting  out  of  doors  in  the  open  air  are  those  which 
bloom  late  and  start  late  in  growth,  such,  for  instance,  as  Chandkri 
elcgans  or  Anemonczflora ;  the  varieties  with  broad  roundish  leaves 
appear  to  grow  in  more  robust  fashion  than  those  having  narrow  pointed 
ones  with  a  serrated  edge,  though  the  latter  will  make  sometimes  very 
compact  bushes.  It  is  possible  that  those  with  dark  red  flowers 
are  hardier  than  those  with  pink.  The  old  double  white  seems  to 
stand  the  cold  well  enough,  but  it  hides  its  flowers  rather  too  much 
among  the  foliage  to  make  any  effective  display  of  them,  though  in 
this  way  they  are  often  secured  from  frost  or  bad  weather  and  made 
serviceable  for  cutting.  To  train  against  trestles  or  a  wall  Doncke 
Laari  is  very  good,  and  next  to  reticulata,  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
when  well  grown,  blooming  so  freely.  Camellias  appear  to  grow  in 
almost  any  aspect,  but  are  naturally  sun  lovers,  and  though  preferring 
peat  they  will  grow  in  most  other  soils,  provided  that  there  is  no  lime 
present.  The  points  of  the  young  roots  are  very  sensitive  to  drought, 
so  should  be  protected  until  well  established,  by  light  mulching  or  a 
surrounding  growth,  from  the  risk  of  being  withered  up  by  a  fierce  sun 
striking  the  ground  in  which  they  are  starting.  Unlike  many  other 
shrubs,  they  seem  to  have  the  advantage  of  being  exempt  from  the 
destructive  attention  of  rabbits ;  perhaps  when  snow  is  on  the  ground 
they  might  be  barked,  but  Mr.  Scrase-Dickens  says  he  has  not  noticed 
it.  Apart  from  the  question  of  varieties  it  may  be  well  to  draw  atten- 
tion to  the  fact  that  only  strong  healthy  plants  should  be  bought,  for 
sickly  specimens  from  a  conservatory  or  greenhouse  are  very  slow 
indeed  to  make  a  start,  and  will  remain  sometimes  for  an  astonishing 
number  of  years  in  almost  the  same  pitiable  state.  Grafted  plants 
should  be  avoided ;  if  seedlings  are  not  obtainable,  cuttings  generally 
can  be  struck  without  much  difficulty. 

Heather  and  Bracken  Planting. — In  planting  these,  it  is  always 
best  to  get  the  heather  from  the  moors,  choosing  places  where  it  grows 


526  GARDENING   FOR  BEGINNERS 

short,  and  digging  up  deep  sods.  In  places  where  top  sods  are  cut 
thin  for  burning  and  young  heather  springs  up  afresh,  these,  with  the 
young  plants  about  3  inches  high,  would  do  well,  or  the  seedlings 
could  be  taken  up  in  hundreds  and  planted  in  peaty  soil.  Bracken 
can  also  be  planted  in  the  same  way,  cutting  out  large  deep  sods. 
This  is  much  better  than  getting  the  roots  out  clean,  as  they  take 
a  long  time  to  recover,  and  very  few  grow  at  all.  The  best  places  to 
take  it  from  are  where  the  ground  is  very  poor  and  it  grows  very 
short. 

Labour-saving  Appliances  are  Important. — A  writer  in  The 

Garden  lays  stress  upon  the  importance  of  having  the  best  labour- 
saving  appliances.  "  Many,  perhaps  most,  agree  that  it  is  '  all  in  the 
day's  work,'  and  that  any  arrangement  for  simplifying  and  reducing 
work  is  a  useless  expense,  giving  the  gardener  more  time  to  idle 
about."  A  long  experience  shows  this  to  be  a  serious  blunder.  If 
the  employer  shows  no  appreciation  of  the  value  of  time,  and  no 
objection  to  wasting  it  with  inferior  tools  and  appliances,  the  man 
naturally  follows  his  employer's  lead,  and  sets  little  value  on  his  own 
time,  which  can  easily  be  wasted  in  a  garden.  We  always  keep  the 
best  labour-saving  appliances,  and  see  they  are  used ;  a  poor  tool  is 
cleared  out  of  the  way,  and  the  men  spend  the  time,  which  would 
otherwise  be  wasted,  on  improving  all  round.  Work  is  better  done, 
and  many  things  are  done  which  would  be  impossible  if  we  went  on 
the  principle  of  using  old,  bad,  or  indifferent  tools,  without  considera- 
tion as  to  the  time  they  waste.  One  of  the  occupations  in  which  a 
very  large  amount  of  time  is  wasted  is  watering.  Instead  of  the  water 
coming  to  the  man,  he  has  to  carry  it  in  most  private  gardens;  the 
watering-pots  are  clumsy,  unhandy,  and  slow  in  delivery.  This  is  a 
point  on  which  we  might  well  take  a  lesson  from  the  French  market 
gardener,  who  as  a  rule  will,  compared  with  us,  do  the  same  amount 
of  watering  in  less  than  half  the  time,  and  with  much  less  labour.  He 
arranges  his  beds  so  that  he  can  use  two  cans,  one  in  each  hand.  The 
same  thing  occurs  in  the  pruning;  one  man  will  spend  more  time 
in  climbing  up  and  down  a  ladder  than  another  requires  to  do  the 
whole  with  proper  tools,  and  so  on  through  the  garden  work.  Money 
devoted  to  good  labour-saving  appliances  is  always  well  spent,  and  a 
good  gardener  takes  a  pride  both  in  having  and  in  using  them. 

Plants  for  Garden  Vases- — The  question  as  to  the  best  plants 
for  this  use  is  one  that  often  arises.  In  one  way  it  is  very  easily 
answered,  for  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  there  are  no  summer  plants 
that  so  exactly  suit  the  purpose  as  Geraniums.  The  habit  and  appear- 
ance of  the  plant  is  exactly  of  the  right  character,  and  rather  solid  and 
important,  while  its  stiff  half  wooden  stems  enable  it  to  withstand  a  good 
deal  of  wind.  Moreover,  it  comes  out  its  best  in  the  late  summer  and 
early  autumn,  when  the  gardens  where  the  important  stone  vases  usually 
find  a  home  are  wanted  to  be  at  their  best.  They  are  also  plants  that 
gardeners  are  so  well  accustomed  to  growing  that  they  can  depend  on 
attaining  the  result  desired.  The  choice  of  varieties  is  now  so  large 


ITEMS   OF  INTEREST  527 

that  there  is  plenty  of  alternative,  but  there  can  be  little  doubt  that  for 
general  good  effect  those  of  the  softer  scarlet  colourings  and  those  in- 
clining to  a  salmon  tint  are  the  best.  Nothing  can  well  beat  the 
salmon-coloured  double  King  of  Denmark.  The  colour  is  delightfully 
satisfying  to  the  eye,  both  of  the  critical  and  untaught ;  the  doubling  is 
just  double  enough,  and  it  gives  the  flower  an  expansive  richness  with- 
out crowding  of  petals. 

We  want  our  double  Geraniums,  like  all  other  double  flowers,  to  be 
improved  by  a  reasonable  increase  of  petals,  not  to  be  debased  by  their 
being  crowded  into  a  tight,  formless  mass,  as  is  the  case  in  many  double 
flowers,  of  which,  among  others,  many  Geraniums,  Begonias,  Hollyhocks, 
and  Fuchsias  may  be  quoted.  The  good  King  of  Denmark  has  also  the 
merit  of  a  handsome  and  well-marked  leaf;  in  short,  it  is  a  type  of 
beauty  for  a  vase  as  for  any  other  use  of  these  indispensable  summer 
flowers.  Geraniums  are  rather  better  in  vases  than  in  beds,  because  the 
vase  becomes  warmed,  and  with  daily  watering  the  conditions  it  offers 
are  exactly  what  the  plants  like  best,  sun-warmth  to  root  and  top,  and 
free  air  all  round. 

So,  to  recapitulate  the  main  part  of  the  answer  to  the  question  as 
to  the  best  plants  for  vases,  it  is  "  Geraniums  far  and  away  the  best." 
Nothing  is  so  well  dressed  or  so  exactly  suited  to  this  use.  Whether  or 
not  to  add  some  ivy-leaved  kinds  to  hang  over  the  edge  is  a  matter  that 
must  be  determined  by  the  form  and  place  of  the  pot,  but  they  are 
generally  more  suitable  to  a  thing  of  larger  design.  The  choice  of  the 
pot  plants  must  depend  also  on  the  degree  of  shelter  of  the  place  where 
the  pots  or  vases  stand.  In  a  very  sheltered  place  the  best  of  the 
Petunias  are  good  pot  plants.  The  best  means  the  good  whites,  whether 
single  or  double,  the  purples  being  nearly  all  infected  with  an  unpleasant 
rankness  of  colouring  that  makes  them  unbearable  to  the  critical  colour 
eye.  They  have  the  advantage  of  remaining  long  in  beauty,  for  it  must 
be  remembered  that  the  pot  plant  must  be  long  enduring ;  it  is  no  use 
to  have  a  thing  that  is  in  beauty  for  a  month — it  must  be  in  beauty  for 
three  months.  A  vase  in  a  sheltered  place,  2  feet  high  and  as  much 
broad,  reckoned  independently  of  any  plinth  or  pier  on  which  it  may 
stand,  might  be  beautifully  dressed  with  a  standard  Heliotrope  in  the 
middle  about  2  feet  9  inches  high,  with  a  base  planting  of  white 
Petunia,  or  the  standard  of  such  a  height  as  would  show  just  a  little  of 
the  stem  free  above  the  Petunia.  A  very  well  grown  Fuchsia  of  the 
Mme.  Cornellisen  type,  or  any  red  and  white  double  that  is  not  too 
double,  would  also  be  a  good  centre  plant.  Here  the  pendent  habit  of 
the  plant  would  seem  to  encourage  the  use  of  a  red  or  white  Ivy 
Geranium  to  carry  on  the  same  idea  throughout. 

Where  the  vases  can  be  carried  for  the  winter  into  the  shelter  of 
some  frost-proof  place,  Hydrangeas,  that  can  remain  in  them  from  year 
to  year,  are  delightful  vase  plants.  For  the  same  use,  whether  the  vase 
itself  is  carried  into  shelter  or  the  plant  dropped  into  it  in  a  large  pot, 
Sweet  Verbena,  Myrtle,  Pomegranate,  Oleander,  Musa,  and  the  hardier 
Palms  can  be  used.  But  to  do  these  things  rightly  there  must  be  a 


528  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

knowledge,  not  only  of  the  plant  and  its  needs,  but  of  proportion  and 
right  use  of  form  and  colour.  It  is  therefore  most  important  in  large 
places,  or  places  of  whatever  size  that  are  carefully  designed,  to  have  a 
regular  system  established,  on  the  advice,  if  possible,  of  a  competent 
garden  artist,  and  to  keep  to  the  same  year  after  year,  for  it  is  a  matter 
that  calls  for  the  most  highly  trained  ability. 

The  few  best  vase  plants  are  already  well  known,  among  them  being 
the  Paris  Daisy  (Chrysanthemum  frutescens)^  and  it  is  better  to  put  these 
to  their  best  use  as  to  proportion  and  environment  than  to  search  about 
for  a  larger  number  of  plants  that  may  possibly  be  used  in  vases. 

Planting  a  Strip  Of  Woodland.— Amateurs  are  sometimes  placed 
in  the  position  of  the  following  inquirer,  and  this  letter  and  answer  to  it 
may  assist  others  in  need  of  similar  advice :  "  I  have  lately  thrown  a 
small  strip  of  wood  into  the  garden  by  pulling  down  part  of  the  boundary 
wall.  I  want  advice  as  to  the  way  to  make  it  as  attractive  as  possible. 

1  am  having  holes  prepared  for  suitable  plants.     It  is  bounded  on  two 
sides  by  a  small  river,  and  on  the  third  by  a  ditch ;  this  and  the  river 
usually  overflow  in  winter,  and  in  the  summer  dry  up  almost  altogether. 
The  soil  has  never  been  dug,  and  is  hard  like  clay,  and  full  of  roots. 
The  natural  soil  of  the  garden  is  very  good.     The  trees  are  mostly  Haw- 
thorns, but  there  are  some  Beeches,  a  few  Oaks,  and  a  little  grove  of 
Wild  Cherry  trees  at  one  end.     I  should  very  much  like  to  grow  some 
Lilies,  Japan  Anemones,  &c.,  and  thought  of  digging  good  large  holes 

2  feet   and    3   feet   deep,  and   filling   them  up   during   the  summer 
with  manure,  refuse,  and  good  soil.     In  one  rather  shady  place  there  is 
a  little  mound.     What  could  I  plant  to  trail  over  it  and  hang  down  ?  " 

To  this  question  we  would  advise  for  the  chief  planting  Leucojum 
cestivum,  Daffodils,  and  Solomon's  Seal,  also  hardy  Ferns,  including 
Hart's  Tongue.  One  plant  likely  to  do  well  would  be  Iris /(Ktidissima^ 
also  the  common  Columbines,  and  Woodruff.  Of  Lilies  the  most  suitable 
would  be  the  Martagon  and  the  white  variety.  For  trailing  over  the 
mound,  Ivy,  Periwinkles,  and  Moneywort.  Ivy  is  charming  with  Snow- 
drops coming  through  it.  Snowdrops  would  also  probably  do  well 
planted  in  quantity.  If  a  large  effect  is  desired,  Polygonum  Sieboldi 
should  be  used,  or  if  a  group  of  flowering  shrubs,  Guelder  Rose,  or  still 
better,  its  original  native  form,  the  Water  Elder  ( Viburnum  Opulus). 
In  planting  in  such  a  place  it  is  well  to  maintain  a  different  character  to 
that  of  the  garden,  by  the  use  of  plants  that  are  either  hardened  natives 
or  might  be  wild.  Nearly  all  those  named  are  of  this  nature.  Two 
feet  would  be  deep  enough  for  the  prepared  holes,  and  we  would  not 
advise  making  the  soil  too  rich. 

Pomegranate,  The. — It  is  very  curious  and  interesting  to  notice 
how  many  beautiful  things  are  seldom  seen  in  an  English  garden, 
although  suitable  for  our  climate.  The  Pomegranate  is  an  illustration, 
as  the  Curator  of  the  Royal  Gardens  at  Kew  says :  "  Planted  at  the 
foot  of  a  south  wall  and  treated  generally  like  a  well-groomed  Peach 
tree,  it  will  flower  from  June  to  September.  Its  flowers  are  as  rich 
in  colour  as  any  scarlet  flower  known,  and  they  last  several  days  if  cut 


ITEMS   OF   INTEREST  529 

before  the  crinkled  petals  burst  open.  At  least  three  varieties  are 
grown  out  of  doors,  namely  the  type,  the  big  double-flowered  variety, 
with  petals  margined  with  white,  Picotee-like,  and  the  dwarf  variety 
known  as  nanum.  There  are  other  forms  besides  these,  including  a 
white-flowered  one  which  I  have  seen  in  Paris  gardens,  where  old — 
very  old — standard  plants  are  grown  and  treasured.  The  dwarf  variety 
is  cultivated  as  a  pot  plant  in  some  continental  countries.  I  have  seen 
it  in  the  Hamburg  florists'  shops,  pretty  little  pyramids  in  5-inch 
pots,  covered  with  flowers.  Fruits  are  rarely  produced  by  the  Pome- 
granate in  England." 

Scum  on  a  Pond. — A  well-known  correspondent  of  The  Garden 
in  replying  to  a  question  about  freeing  a  pond  from  scum  on  the 
advent  of  hot  summer  weather  writes :  "  I  used  to  be  troubled  in  the 
same  way  in  a  cemented  tank  of  still  water,  which  would  keep  clear 
until  after  two  or  three  days  of  hot  summer,  when  it  would  be  com- 
pletely covered  with  green  scum.  It  had  vegetable  life  in  the  shape 
of  Nymphaeas,  and  animal  life  in  the  golden  carp,  but  the  scum  ap- 
peared in  spite  of  them.  A  few  years  ago  I  collected  a  large  number 
of  water  snails  and  put  them  into  it,  since  which  time  I  have  never 
had  to  complain  of  this  scum.  Although  it  would  be  rather  too  hasty 
a  generalisation  to  quote  these  facts  as  cause  and  effect,  I  mention 
them  as  a  suggestion  for  what  they  are  worth,  and  I  believe  others 
have  had  a  similar  experience.  At  any  rate,  the  experiment  is  worth 
trying.  I  suspect  also  that  the  introduction  of  tench  would  also  prove 
useful  for  keeping  down  vegetable  growth,  for  which  they  are  better 
than  carp." 

Sticks  and  Stakes. — Many  a  garden  is  sadly  disfigured  by  the 
clumsy  and  unsightly  way  the  plants  are  staked.  In  dressed  grounds 
the  stakes  that  are  necessary  for  the  support  of  the  plant  should  never 
show;  they  should  be  sufficient  for  their  purpose,  but  must  never 
obtrude  their  presence.  Often  they  are  much  too  tall,  overtopping 
the  plant  by  a  foot  or  more.  Sometimes  it  comes  from  the  want  of 
a  little  foresight,  but  oftener  from  an  insensibility  to  much  of  the 
ugliness  that  ought  to  be  obvious.  Plenty  of  stakes  of  all  lengths 
should  be  provided  in  the  winter,  so  that  there  are  enough  and  to  spare 
of  all  heights.  Where  this  adequate  provision  is  not  made  perhaps 
it  happens  that  there  are  stakes  of  short  Dahlia  height,  but  none 
provided  for  Pseonies ;  it  seems  a  pity  to  shorten  a  good  Dahlia  stake, 
so  in  it  goes  for  the  Paeony  and  sticks  up  ij  foot  above  it,  entirely 
destroying  the  beauty  of  the  flower  and  all  the  poetical  aspect  of  the 
garden.  As  a  rough  rule,  it  will  be  enough  if  the  stick  comes  up 
two-thirds  the  height  of  the  plant,  especially  in  the  case  of  graceful 
things  like  Lilies.  Most  Lilies  arch  over  or  bend  a  little  one  way, 
and  to  see  them  tied  up  rigidly  to  a  straight  stick  taller  than  their 
fullest  height  is  a  grievous  sight  to  the  true  lover  of  beauty  in  a 
garden.  The  Bamboo  sticks  that  are  so  cheap  and  handy  are  often 
used  in  an  unsightly  way;  they  are  so  very  straight,  and  their  light 
colour  makes  them  conspicuous,  though  they  are  excellent  if  they  are 

2  L 


530  GARDENING    FOR   BEGINNERS 

cleverly  used.  The  stick  itself  cannot  be  made  beautiful.  Sticks 
painted  green  with  gilt  tops  appear  in  the  lists  of  some  dealers  in 
horticultural  sundries.  Such  things  are  never  seen  in  good  places ; 
they  belong  to  that  category  of  horrors  that  includes  grasses  dyed 
magenta,  moss  dyed  a  most  unmosslike  green,  and  the  coloured  glass 
balls  of  small  continental  back  gardens.  Many  gardeners  use  strips 
of  deal  laths  carefully  rounded.  These  have  a  certain  neatness  in 
themselves,  but  are  much  too  conspicuous.  No  sticks  for  pot  plants 
are  better  than  Hazel  suckers,  whether  of  large  size,  as  for  6  feet 
high  Chrysanthemums,  or  such  as  suit  a  pot  of  Tulips  or  Hyacinths. 
Next  to  these  in  merit  are  Apple  prunings;  if  they  are  looked  over 
as  soon  as  they  are  cut  and  tied  together  in  bundles  they  dry  straight 
and  are  extremely  useful,  the  larger  ones  doing  admirably  for  Carnations 
of  the  next  season.  Plants  of  a  feathery  way  of  growth,  like  Gypsophila 
and  Michaelmas  Daisies,  are  best  supported  with  branching  spray,  such 
as  may  be  cut  out  of  the  tops  when  trees  are  felled.  It  is  most 
important  to  have  all  these  accessories  prepared  in  good  time,  so  that 
when  they  are  wanted  they  are  ready  at  hand.  But  the  thing  to 
remember  is,  that  though  the  sticks  must  needs  be  there,  they  must 
never  show  so  as  to  mar  the  beauty  of  the  garden. 

Tub-Gardening. — This  is  a  form  of  gardening  which  is  rapidly 
becoming  popular.  As  the  name  suggests,  it  means  planting  in  tubs 
for  the  decoration  of  lawn  or  terrace.  It  is  often  possible  to  grow  some 
handsome  plant  in  a  tub  and  not  in  the  open  garden.  Tubs  of  plants 
may  be  placed  upon  the  terrace,  by  the  garden  path,  or  on  each  side  of 
the  hall  door.  Sometimes  the  foliage  is  very  fragrant,  and  when  brushed 
against  gives  off  a  warm  and  powerful  odour,  such  as  the  Lemon  plant 
and  the  Cape  Pelargonium.  These  tub  plants,  when  no  better  accommo- 
dation exists,  such  as  a  conservatory  or  large  plant  house,  may  be  stored 
away  in  cellars  and  kept  safe  from  frost  by  coverings  of  straw  or  similar 
material.  The  Agapanthus  is  one  of  the  best  of  tub  plants,  and  a  choice 
may  be  made  from  the  following :  Myrtles,  the  Lemon  plant  or  Sweet 
Verbena  (Aloysia  citriodord),  the  fragrant-leaved  Cape  Pelargoniums,  the 
fragrant  Choisya  ternata  or  Mexican  Orange  flower;  Heliotropes,  the 
Coral  tree  (Erythrina  Crista-galli\  Plumbago  capensis,  and  the  Yucca. 
Tubs  can  be  purchased,  or  made  from  paraffin  casks  and  beer  barrels 
cut  in  two  in  the  centre.  Nail  a  bit  of  half-round  wood  in  each  circle, 
or  nail  stout  zinc  on  the  outsides  of  them.  Two  coats  of  paint  will  do, 
but  a  third  one  is  an  advantage.  The  two  first  should  be  lead  colour, 
and  the  third  green.  A  coat  of  black  afterwards  should  be  given  on  the 
black  hoops.  As  soon  as  the  tubs  are  cut  in  two  get  some  shavings  or 
dry  straw  and  upturn  each  tub  over  them.  Then  set  fire  to  them  and 
leave  the  tubs  sufficiently  long  on  fire  so  that  the  inner  surface  is  well 
charred  over.  For  the  smaller  sizes  not  less  than  five  holes  bored  with 
an  inch  auger  should  be  made  in  the  bottom  of  each  tub.  Larger  ones 
should  have  more.  For  the  smaller  sizes  two  stout  box  handles  should 
be  screwed  on  to  each  one.  They  can  be  purchased  cheaply  from  any 
ironmonger.  For  the  larger  tubs  stouter  ones  are  best. 


ENGLISH    NAMES    FOR    WILD    AND 
GARDEN   FLOWERS 


IN  the  following  list  of  English  flower-names  those  familiar  to  us  in  the  garden  are 
not  recorded,  for  the  good  reason  that  throughout  the  entire  work  where  a 
sensible  English  name  is  available  it  has  been  used.  Thus,  on  page  52, 
"  Matthiola  bicornis"  is  called  "  Night-scented  Stock  "  ;  and  so  where  an  oppor- 
tunity is  given  plant  nomenclature  has  been  made  easy. 


ACONITE,  Winter  (Eranthis  hyemalis) 
Adder's-tongue  (Ophioglossum  vulgatum) 
Agrimony,  Common    (Agrimonia    Eupa- 

toria) 
,,  Common    Hemp  (Eupatorium 

cannabinum) 

,,  Scented  (Agrimonia  odorata) 

Alder,  Common  ( Ainu s glutinosa) 
Alexanders,  Common  (Smyrnium  Olusa- 

trum) 
Alkanet,  Common  (Anchusa  officinalis) 

, ,         Evergreen  (Anchusa  ssmpervirens) 
All-good,    Good    King    Henry,    Mercury 

(Chenopodium  Bonus- Henricus) 
All-seed  (Radiola  Millegrana) 
Andromeda,  Marsh  (Andromeda  polifolia) 
Anemone,  Apennine  (Anemone  apennina) 
,,          Wood,  Wind-flower  (Anemone 

nemorosa) 

Angelica,  Wild  (Angelica  sylvestris) 
Archangel,  Yellow  (Lamium  Galeobdolon) 
Arrow-grass,  Sea  ( Triglochin  maritimum) 
,,  Marsh  ( Triglochin  palustre) 

Arrow-head,  Common  (Sagittana  sagitti- 

folia) 

Asarabacca  (Asarum  Europseum) 
Ash  (Fraxinus  excelsior) 
Asparagus,  Common  (Asparagus  officinalis) 
Aspen  (Populus  tremula) 
Asphodel,  Bog  (Narthecium  ossifragum) 
,,          Mountain    Scottish     (Tofieldia 

palustris) 
Avens,     Common,     Herb    Benet    (Geum 

urbanum) 

, ,        Mountain  (Dry as  octopetala) 
„        Water  (Geum  rivale) 
Awl-wort,  Water  (Subularia  aquatica) 
Azalea,  Trailing  (Loiseleuria  procumbens) 

BALM  (Melissa  officinalis) 

Balsam,   Touch-me-not    (Impatiens   Noli- 

tangere) 
Bane-berry,     Herb     Christopher    (Actsea 

spicata) 


Barberry  (Berberis  vulgaris 
Barley,  Wall,  Way-bent  (1 


raris) 

(Hordeum 
num) 

,,      Wood  (Hordeum  sylvaticum) 
Bartsia,  Alpine  (Bartsia  alpina) 
Red  (Bartsia  Odontites) 
,,       Yellow- viscid  (Bartsia  viscosa) 
Basil,  Thyme  (Calamintha  Acinos) 

, ,      Wild  ( Calamintha  Clinopodium) 
Bastard-balm  (Melittis  melissophyllum) 
Beak  Sedge,  Brown  (Rhynchospora fusca) 
,,          White  (Rhynchospora  alba) 
Bear-berry,  Black  (Arctostaphylos  alpina) 
,,  Red      (Arctostaphylos     Uva- 

Ursi) 
Beard-grass,  Annual     (Polypogon    monspe- 

liensis) 

, ,  Perennial  (Polypogon  littoralis) 

Bedstraw,  Cross-leaved  (Galium  boreale) 
,,         Hedge  (Galium  Mollugo) 
,,         Lady's  (Galium  verum) 
„         Mountain  (Galium  sylvestre) 
„         Rough-fruited     corn      (Galium 

tricome) 
„         Rough    Marsh   (Galium   uligi- 

nosum) 

,,         Water  (Galium palustre) 
Beech,  Common  (Fagus  sylvatica) 
Bell-flower,  Clustered  (Campanula  glome- 

rata) 
„          Creeping  (Campanula  rapun- 

culoides) 

„          Giant  (Campanula  latifolia) 
„          Spreading  (Campanula patula) 
Bent,  Bristle-leaved  (Agrostis  setacea) 
,,     Brown  (Agrostis  canina) 
,,     Fine  (Agrostis  vulgaris) 
Betony,  Wood  (Stachys  betonica) 
Bindweed,  Black  (Polygonum  Convolvulus') 
,,          Great  (Convolvulus  sepium) 
, ,          Sea  ( Convolvulus  Soldanella ) 
,,          Small  (Convolvulus  arvensis) 
Birch,  Dwarf  (Betula  nana) 
,,      Silver  (Betula  alba) 


532 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


Bird's-foot,   Common    (Ornithopus  perpu- 

sillus) 

Birthwort  (Aristolochia  Clematitis) 
Bistort,  Alpine  (Polygonum  viviparum) 

,,       Snake-weed  (Polygonum  Bistorta) 
Bitter-cress,  Hairy  (Cardamine  hirsuta) 
Blackberry,  Bramble  (Rubus fruticosus) 
Bladder-seed  (Physosptrmum  cornubiense) 
Bladderwort,  Common  (Utricularia  vul- 

garis) 
,,  Intermediate     (Utricularia 

intermedia] 

,,  Lesser  (Utricularia  minor] 

Blue-bell,  Wild  Hyacinth  (Scilla  nutans] 
Bog-rush,  Black  (Schcsnus  nigricans) 
Borage,  Common  (Borago  officinalis) 
Box,  Common  (Buxus  semperuirens) 
Bracken  or  Brake  (Pteris  aquilina] 
Briar,  Sweet  (Rosa  rubiginosa) 
Bristle-grass,  Green,  Panic  (Setaria  viridis) 
Brome,  Barren  (Bromus  sterilis] 

,,       Compact  (Bromus  Madritensis] 
„      Smooth  (Bromus  racemosus] 
, ,      Soft,  Sop-grass  (Bromus  mollis] 
,,       Upright  (Bromus  erectus] 
Brooklime  ( Veronica  Beccabunga] 
Brook-weed  (Samolus  Valerandi} 
Broom,  Common  (Cytisus  Scoparius] 
Broom-rape,  Clove-scented  (Orobanche  cary- 

ophyllacea] 

Greater  (Orobanche  major] 
Lesser  (Orobanche  minor) 
Purple  (Orobanche  caerulea) 
Red  (Orobanche  rubra] 
Tall  (Orobanche  elatior] 
Bryony,  Black  (Tamus  communis] 

,,        White  (Bryonia  dioica] 
Buck  or  Bog-bean  (Menyanthes  trifoliata) 
Buckthorn,    Alder,     Berry-bearing    Alder 

(Rhamnus  Frangula) 
„          Common    (Rhamnus     cathar- 

ticus] 

,,  Sea  (Hippophse  rhamnoides] 

Buckwheat,  Copse  (Polygonum  dumetorum] 
Bugle,  Common  (Ajuga  reptans) 

, ,      Pyramidal  (Ajuga  pyramidalis) 
Bugloss  (Anchusa  arvensis) 
Bui  lace  (Prunus  insititia] 
Bulrush,  Common  (Scirpus  lacustris] 

Reed-mace  or  Cat's  tail  (Typha 

latifolia] 

,,        Three-edged  (Scirpus  triqueter) 
Buplever,  Narrow-leaved  (Bupleurumaris- 

tatum] 

Burdock  (Arctium  Lappa] 
Bur-marigold,  Nodding  (Bidens  cernua] 
Trifid  (Bidens  tripartita) 
Burnet,  Great  (Poterium  ojficinale) 

,,       Salad  {Potcrium  Sanguisorba] 
Burnet  Saxifrage,    Common    (Pimpinella 

Saxifraga] 
Bur-Parsley,  Great  (Caucalis  latifolia] 

,,  (Caucalis  daucoides] 

Bur-reed,  Branched  (Sparganium  ramosum] 
,,       Floating  (Sparganium  natans] 
,,       Unbranched,      Upright      (Spar- 
ganittm  simplex) 


Butcher's    Broom,    Knee    Holly    (Ruscus 
aculeatus) 

Butter-bur  (Petasites  vulgaris] 

Buttercup  (Ranunculus  acris) 

,,         Bulbous  (Ranunculus  bulbosus) 
,,         Creeping  (Ranunculus  repens) 

Butterwort,  Alpine  (Pinguicula  alpina) 
,,  Common  (Pinguiculavulgaris) 

,,  Pale  (Pinguicula  lusitanica] 


CABBAGE,  Isle  of  Man  (Brassica  monensis] 
,,         Jersey  (Brassica  Cheiranthos] 
,,          Wild  (Brassica  oleracea] 
Calamint  (Calamintha  officinalis] 
Campanula,   Nettle-leaved,  Wild  Canter- 
bury Bells  (Campanula  Trachelium) 
Campion,  Bladder  (Silene  inflata] 
,,         Moss  (Silene  acaulis] 
,,         Sea  (Silene  maritima) 
Canary-grass  (Phalaris  canariensis) 
Candytuft,  Bitter  (Iberis  amara] 
Caraway,  Common  (Carum  Carui] 

,,        Whorled  (Carum  verticillatum] 
Carnation-grass  (Carex panicea) 
Carrot,  Wild  (Daucus  Carota) 
Catch  fly,  English  (Silene  anglica] 

,,        Nottingham  (Silene  nutans) 
Cat-mint  (Nepeta  Cataria) 
Cat's-ear,  Smooth  (Hypochaeris  glabra) 

, ,        Spotted  (Hypochaeris  maculatd) 
Cat's  Tail,  Mountain  (Phleum  alpinum) 

,,          Sea  (Phleum  arenarium) 
Celandine,  Lesser,  Pile-wort  (Ranunculus 

Ficaria) 

Celery,  Wild  (Apium  graveolens) 
Centaury,  Common    (Erythrsea     Centau~ 

rium) 
, ,        Yellow,  Yellow- wort  ( Chlora  per- 

foliata) 

Chamomile,  Common  (Anthemis  nobilis) 
,,          Com  (Anthemis  arvensis) 
,,          W\\di(MatricariaChamomilla) 
Cherry,  Bird  (Prunus  Padus) 

,,       Dwarf  (Prunus  Cerasus) 
Chervil  (Chcerophyllum  temulum) 

,,       Garden  (Anthriscus  Cerefolium) 
Chickweed,  Common  (Stellaria  media) 

,,          Field,  Mouse-eared  (Cerastium 

arvense) 
„          Mouse  -  eared         (Cerastium 

tetrandrum) 

,,          Wayside,  Mouse-eared  (Ceras- 
tium triviale) 
,,  Winter -green     (Trientalis 

europaea) 

Chicory,  Wild  (Cichorium  Intybus) 
Chives  (Allium  Schasnoprasum) 
Cicely,  Sweet  (Myrrhis  odorata) 
Cinquefoil,  Rock  (Potentilla  rupestris) 

,,         Shrubby  (Potentilla fruticosa) 
Clary,  Meadow  (Salvia  pratensis] 
Cloudberry  (Rubus  Chamfemorus) 
Clover,  Alsike  (Trifolium  hybridum) 
,,       Crimson  ( Trifolium  incarnatum) 
,,        Meadow  ( Trifolium  medium) 
,,       Red  (Trifolium pratense) 


WILD   AND   GARDEN  FLOWERS 


533 


Clover,  White  or  Dutch  ( Trifolium  repens) 
Club-moss  (Lycopodium  cla-vatum) 
Club-rush,  Sea  (Scirpus  maritimus) 

,,          Wood  (Scirpus  sylvaticus) 
Cock's-foot  Grass  (Dactylis  glomerata) 
Colt's-foot  ( Tussilago  Farfara) 
Columbine  (Aquilegia  vulgaris) 
Comfrey,  Common  (Symphytum  officinale} 
,,        T'uibe.roQs(Symphytumtuberosum) 
Coral-root  (Dentaria  bulbifera) 

,,          Spurlers  (Corallorhiza  innata) 
Cord-grass,  Common  (Spartina  stricta) 
Corn-cockle  (Githago  segetum) 
Cornflower,  Blue-bottle  (Centaurea  Cyanus) 
Corn-salad,  Lamb's  Lettuce  (Valerianella 

olitoria) 

, ,  Toothed  ( Valerianella  dentatd) 

Corydalis,     Climbing     (Corydalis     clavi- 

culata) 

Cotton-grass,  Alpine  (Eriophorunt  alpinum) 
,,  Common  (Eriophorum     an- 

gustifolium) 
„  Hare's  -  tail       (Eriophorum 

vaginatum) 

Cotton- weed  (Diotus  maritime,} 
Cow-berry  (  Vaccinium  Vitis- Idcea) 
Cow-Parsnip,  Common,   Hog-weed  (Her- 

aclcum  Sphondylium) 
Cowslip,  Paigle  (Primula  verts) 
Cow- wheat,  Common  Yellow  (Melampyrum 

pratense) 
,,          Crested     (Melampyrum     cris- 

tatum) 

,,          (Melampyrum  sylvaticum) 
tf          Purple  (Melampyrum  arvense) 
Crab-apple  (Pyrus  Malus) 
Cranberry  (Oxycoccos palustris) 
Crane's  Bill,  Meadow  (Geranium  pratense} 
,,  Shining  (Geranium  lucidum} 

Creeping  Jenny,  Money-wort  (Lysimachia 

Nummularia) 
Crocus,  Autumn,  Meadow  Saffron  (Colchi- 

cum  aulumnale} 

,,       Naked-flowered  (Crocus  nudiflorus) 
,,       Purple  Spring  (Crocus  vernus) 
Crosswort  (Galium  cruciata] 
Crow-berry  (Empetrum  nigrum) 
Crowfoot ,  Celery- leaved       (Ranunculus 

sceleratus} 

,,          Corn  (Ranunculus  arvensis] 
,,         Ivy-leaved  (Ranunculus  hedera- 

ceus} 

,,         Mud  (Ranunculus  Lenormandi] 
,,         Small-flowered     (Ranunculus 

parviflorus} 

,,          Water  (Ranunculus  aquatilis} 
Cuckoo-flower,  Lady's  Smock  (Cardamine 

pratensis} 

Cuckoo-pint,   Lords  and    Ladies,    Wake- 
robin  (Arum  maculatum} 
Cudweed,  Dwarf  (Gnaphalium  supinum) 

Jersey  (Gnaphalium  luteo-album} 
Least  (Filago  minima} 
Marsh  (Gnaphalium  uliginosum} 
Narrow-leaved  (Filago  gallica} 
Wood  (Gnaphalium  sylvaticum} 
Currant,  Black  (Ribes  nigrum) 


Currant,  Wild  (Ribes  rubrum) 
Cyperus,  Brown  (Cyperus fuscus} 
Cyphel  (Arenaria  Cherleria} 

DAFFODIL,  Lent  Lily  (Narcissus  Pseudo- 
narcissus) 
Daisy,   Ox-eye    (Chrysanthemum    Leucan- 

themum) 

,,        Common  (Bellis  perennis) 
Dandelion  ( Taraxacum  qfficinalis) 
Darnel  (Lolium  temulentum) 
Dead  Nettle,  Intermediate   (Lamium    in- 
termedium} 

,,  Red  (Lamium  purpureum) 

,,  White  (Lamium  album) 

Dock,  Broad-leaved  (Rumex  obtusifolius) 
,,      Curled  (Rumex  crispus) 
,,      Fiddle  (Rumex  pulcher) 
,,      Golden  (Rumex  maritimus) 
,,      Great  Water   (Rumex    Hydrolapa- 

thum) 

, ,      Sharp  (Rumex  conglomerate) 
Dodder,  Flax  (Cuscuta  Epilinum) 
,,       Greater  (Cuscuta  europcea} 
,,        Lesser  (Cuscuta  Epithymum) 
Dog's  Tail,  Crested  (Cynosurus  cristatus) 
, ,  Rough  ( Cynosurus  echinatus) 

Dog's-tooth  Grass  (Cynodon  Dactylon) 
Dog-wood,  Wild  Cornel  (Cornus sanguined) 
Dropwort  (Spiraea  Filipendula) 
Duck-weed,  Greater  (Lemna  polyrhixa) 
,,  Ivy -leaved  (Lemna  trisulca) 

,,          Lesser  (Lemna  minor) 
Dyer's  Greenwood,  Woad- waxen  (Genista 

tinctoria) 
Dyer's  Weed,  Wild  (Reseda  luteola) 

ELDER,  Common  (Sambucus  nigra) 

, ,        Dwarf,     Dane  -  wort     (Sambucus 

Ebulus) 

Elecampane  (Inula  Helenium) 
Elm  (Ulmus  montana) 
Enchanter's  Nightshade,   Alpine   (Cire&a 

alpina) 
Enchanter's  Nightshade,  Common  (Circaa 

luletiana) 
Everlasting  Pea,  Narrow-leaved  (Lathyrus 

sylvestris) 
Eye-bright,    Common    (Euphrasia    offici 

nalis) 

FENNEL,  Common  (Faeniculum  vulgare} 
Fenugreek  ( Trigonella  ornithopodioides) 
Fern,  Bladder  ( Cystopteris fragilis) 

, ,     Bristle  ( Trichomanes  radicans) 

, ,     Filmy  ( Hymenophyllum  tunbridgense) 

,,     Hard  (Lomaria  Spicant) 

,,     Hart's-tongue    (Scolopendrium   vul- 
gare) 

,,     Maidenhair     (Adiantum     Capillus- 
Veneris) 

,,     Parsley,  Rock-brake  (Cryptogramme 
crispa) 

,,     Royal  (Osmunda  regalis) 

,,     Shield  (Aspidium  Lonchitis) 
Fescue  Grass,  Tall  (Festuca  elatior) 


534 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


Fescue,  Reed  (Festuca  sylvatica) 
,,       Sheep's  (Festuca  ovina) 
,,       Single-husked  (Festuca  uniglumis) 
Wall,  Rats'  Tail  (Festuca  Myurus) 
Fever-few,  Common      (Matricaria     Par- 

thenium) 
,,          Corn,       Scentless       Mayweed 

(Matricaria  inodora) 
Fig-wort,  Balm-leaved  (Scrophularia  Scoro- 

donia) 

,,         Knotted  (Scrophularia  nodosa) 
, ,         Water  (Scrophularia  aquatica) 
,,         Yellow  (Scrophularia  vernalis) 
Filago,   Common,  Cudweed   (Filago  ger- 

manica) 

Fiorin  Grass  (Agrostis  alba) 
Fir,  Scotch  (Pinus  sylvestris) 
Fir-rape,   Pine    Bird's    Nest    (Monotrapa 

Hypopitys) 

Flag,  Yellow  (Iris  Pseud-acorus) 
Flax,  Common  (Linum  usitatissimum) 

,,     Purging  (Linum  catharticum) 
Fleabane  (Inula  dysenterica) 

,,        Alpine  (Erigeron  alpinum) 
, ,         Blue  (Erigeron  acre) 
Fleawort,  Field  (Senecio  campestris) 
,,         Marsh  (Senecio  palustris) 
Flixweed  (Sisymbrium  Sophia) 
Flote-grass,   Manna-croup  (Glyceria  flui- 

tans) 
Fluellin,  Male  (Linaria  spuria) 

,,        Sharp-pointed  (Linaria  Elatine) 
Forget-me-Not  (Myosotis palustris) 

„  Mountain   (Myosotis  alpes- 

tris) 

,,  Wood  (Myosotis  sylvatica) 

Foxglove,  Wild  (Digitalis  purpurea) 
Fox-tail,  Alpine  \Alopec-urus  alpinus) 

„       Marsh,   or  Floating  (Alopecurus 

geniculatus) 

,,        Meadow  (Alopecurus pratensis) 
, ,       Orange-spiked  ( A  lopecurusfulvus) 
,,       Tuberous  (Alopecurus  bulbosus) 
Fritillary,     Snake's      Head      (Fritillaria 

Meleagris) 

Frog-bit  (Hydrocharis  Morsus-Ranae) 
Fumitory,  Common  (Fumaria  officinalis) 
,,         Ramping  (Fumaria  capreolata) 
Furze,  Needle  (Genista  anglica) 
,,      Whin,  Gorse  ( Ulex  europseus) 

GALINGALE,  Sweet  (Cyperus  Longus) 
Garlic,   Broad-leaved,    Ramsons   (A Ilium 

ursinum) 

,,      Crow  (A  Ilium  vineale) 
,,      Field  (A Ilium  oleraceum) 
,,       Keeled  (Allium  carinatum) 
, ,      Small  Round-headed  (Allium  sphss- 

rocephalum) 
,,      Triangular-stalked  (Allium  trique- 

trum) 
Gentian,  Common      Autumn      (Gentiana 

Amarella) 

,,        Field  (Gentiana  campestris) 
,,        Marsh  (Gentiana  Pneumonanthe) 
„        Small  Alpine  (Gentiana  nivalis) 
,,        Spring  (Gentiana  verna) 


Germander,    Cut-leaved      Annual      (Teu> 

crium  Botrys) 

,,  Wall  (Teucrium  Chamsedrys) 

,,  Water  ( Teucrium  Scordium) 

Gipsy-wort,  Common  (Lycopus  europseus] 
Glasswort,  Jointed,  Marsh  Samphire  (Sali- 

cornia  herbacea) 

,,          Rooting  (Salicornia  radicans) 
Globe-flower,    Witches'   Gowan  (Trollius 

europseus) 
Goats'-beard,  Jack-go-to-bed-at-noon  ( Tra- 

gopogon  pratense) 
Goat-weed,    Bishop's-weed,    Herb  Gerard 

(sEgopodium  Podagraria) 
Gold  of  Pleasure  (Camelina  sativa) 
Golden-rod  (Solidago  Virgaurea) 
Goldie-locks      (Linosyris     vulgaris,     also 

Ranunculus  auricomus) 
Gooseberry,  Wild  (Ribes  Grossularia) 
Goosefoot,    Many  -  seeded    (Chenopodium 

polyspermum) 
,,         Maple  -  leaved      (Chenopodium 

hybridum) 

,,         Nettle-leaved,  Sowbane  (Cheno- 
podium murale) 
,,         Oak-leaved  (Chenopodium  %lau- 

cum) 

,,         Red  (Chenopodium  rubrum) 
,,          Stinking      (Chenopodium      Vul- 

varia) 

,,          \Jpr \g\i\.  (Chenopodiumurbicum) 
White,  Fat  Hen  (Chenopodium 

album) 

Goose-grass,  Cleavers  (Galium  Aparine) 
Grass,  Blue-eyed  (Sisyrinchium  bermudi- 

anum) 

Grass  of  Parnassus  (Parnassia  palustris} 
Grass-wrack,  Common  (Zostera  marina) 

,,  Dwarf  (Zostera  nana) 

Gromwell,  Common,  Grey   Millet  (Lithos- 

permum  qfficinale) 
, ,         Corn  (Lithospermum  arvense) 
, ,         Purple  (Lithospermum purpureo- 

cseruleum) 

Ground  Ivy,  Ale-hoof  (Nepeta  Glechoma) 
Ground  Pine  (Ajuga  Chamaepitys) 
Groundsel,  Common  (Senecio  vulgaris) 
,,          Mountain  (Senecio  sylvaticus) 
,,          Viscid  (Senecio  viscosus) 
Guelder-rose  ( Viburnum  Opulus) 

HABENARIA,    Small    White    (Habenaria 

albida) 

Hair-bell  (Campanula  rotundifolia) 
Hair-grass,  Crested  (Kceleria  cristata) 
,,  Early  (Aira  prsecox) 

,,          Grey  (Aira  canescens) 
,,          Silver  (Aira  caryophyllea) 
Hammersedge  (Carex  hirta) 
Hard-grass,  Sea  (Lepturus filiformis) 
Hare's-ear,  Common,  or  Thorow-wax  (Bup~ 

leurum  rotundifolium) 
Hare's-tail  Grass  (Lagurus  ovatus) 
Hart-wort  ( Tordylium  maximum) 
Hawkbit,  Autumn  (Leontodon  autumnalis) 
,,         Hairy  (Leontodon  hirtus) 
,,         Rough  (Leonlodon  hispidus) 


WILD   AND   GARDEN   FLOWERS 


535 


Hawk's-beard,  Biennial  (Crepis  biennis) 

Fetid  (Crepis  fatida) 
,,  Marsh  (Crepis paludosa) 

,,  Smooth  (Crepis  virens) 

Hawkweed,  Mouse-ear    (Hieracium  Pilo- 
se lla] 
,,          Narrow-leaved       (Hieracium 

umbellatum) 

,,          Shrubby  (Hieracium  boreale) 
,,  Wall  (Hieracium  murorum) 

Hawthorn,   Whitethorn,    May    (Crateegus 

Oxyacantha) 

Hazel,  Common  (Corylus  Avellana) 
Heartsease,  Wild  Pansy  (  Viola  tricolor) 
Heath,  Ciliated  (Erica  ciliaris) 
Cornish  (Erica  vagans) 
Cross-leaved  (Erica  Tetralix) 
False   Brome  (Brachypodium  pin- 

natum) 

Five-leaved  (Erica  cinerea) 
Mediterranean      (Erica      mediter- 

ranea) 

,,       St.  Dabeoc's  (Dabeocia  polifolia) 
Heather,  Ling  (Calluna  vulgaris) 
Hedge  Parsley  (Caucalis  Anthriscus) 

,,  Knotted  (Caucalis  nodosa) 

Hellebore,  Green,    Bear's-foot   (Helleborus 

viridis) 
, ,         Stinking,  Setter- wort  (Helleborus 

fcetidus) 
Helleborine,  Broad-leaved  (Epipactis  lati- 


folia) 
Marsh 


sh  (Epipactis palustris) 
„  Narrow-leaved        (Cephalan- 

thera  ensifolia) 

„  Red  (Cephalanthera  rubra) 

,,  ^f\i\\&  (Cephalanthera grandi- 

ftora\ 
Hemlock,  Common  (Conium  maculatum) 

,,         Water,  Cowbane  (Cicuta  virosa) 
Hemp  Nettle,  Common  (Galeopsis   Tetra- 

hit) 

Henbane,  Common  (Hyoscyamus  niger) 
Herb  Paris,  True  Love  Knot  (Paris  quadri- 

folia) 

Herb  Robert  (Geranium  robertianum) 
Hog's  Fennel,  Sulphur- wort  (Peucedanum 

officinale) 

Holly,  Common  (Ilex  Aquifolium) 
,,      Sea  (Eryngium  maritimum) 
Holy-grass,  Northern  (Hierochloe  borealis) 
Honewort  ( Trinia  vulgaris) 
Honeysuckle,  Woodbine  (Lonicera  Peri- 

clymenum) 

Hop  (Humulus  Lupulus) 
Horehound,  Black  (Ballota  nigra) 

,,  White  (Marrubium  vulgare) 

Hornbeam,  Common  (Carpinus  Betulus) 
Hornwort,   OBmmon    (Ceratophyllum    de- 

mersum) 

Horsebane  ((Enanthe  Phellandrium) 
Horse  -  tail,     Paddock  -  pipes    (Equisetum 

arvense) 
Hound's  Tongue,  Common  (Cynoglossum 

officinale) 

House-leek,    Common  (Sempervivum  tec- 
torum) 


Hutchinsia,  Rock  (Hutchinsia petrtea) 
Hyacinth,  Grape  (Muscari  racemosum) 

IRIS,  Foetid,  Roast-beef  Plant  (Iris  foetidis- 

sima ) 

Isnardia,  Marsh  (Lndwigia  palustris) 
Ivy,  Common  (Hedera  Helix) 

JACOB'S  LADDER,  Greek  Valerian  (Pole- 

monium  caruleum) 
Juniper  (Juniperus  communis) 

KNAPWEED,  Black,  Hard-head  (Centaurea 

nigra) 

Knawel  (Scleranthus  annuus) 
Knot-grass  (Polygonum  aviculare) 

,,          Seaside     (Polygonum      mari- 
timum) 
Kobresia,  Sedge-like  (Kobresia  caricina) 

LADY'S  MANTLE,  Common   (Alchemilla 

vulgaris) 
Lady's     Tresses,      Autumn      (Spiranthes 

autumnalis) 
,,  ,,  Summer     (Spiranthes 

sestivalis) 
Lamb     or     Swine's    Succory    (Amoseris 

pusilla) 

Larkspur  (Delphinium  Ajacis) 
Lavender,  Common  Sea.(Statice  Limonium) 
,,         Matted  Sea  (Statice  reticulata) 
,,         Spathulate    Sea    (Statue  auri- 

cvlaefolia) 

Leek,  Sand  (A  Ilium  Scorodoprasum) 
,,      Wild  (A  Ilium  Ampeloprasum) 
Leopard's      Bane,      Great      (Doronicvm 

Pardalianches) 

,,  ,,      Plantain-leaved  (Doro- 

nicum  plantagineum) 
Lily  of  the  Valley  (Convallarie  majalis) 
Lily,   Purple  Martagon,  Turk's  Cap  Lily 

(Lilium  Martagon) 
Lime,  Common,  Linden  (Tilia) 
Lobelia,  Acrid  (Lobelia  urens) 

,,        Water  (Lobelia  Dortmanna) 
London  Pride,  St.   Patrick's  Cabbage  or 

None-so-pretty  (Saxifraga  umbrosa) 
Loosestrife,  Great      Yellow      (Lysimachia 

vulgaris} 
,,         Hyssop-leaved  Purple  (Ly  thrum 

Hyssopifolia) 

„         Purple  (Lythrum  Salicaria) 
,,          Tufted  (Lysimachia  thyrsiflora} 
Lovage  (Ligusticum  scoticum) 
Lungwort,   Common    (Pulmonaria    offici- 

nalis) 
,,          Narrow-leaved      (Pulmonaria 

angustifolia) 
Lyme-grass,  Sand  (Elymus  arenarius) 

MADDER,  Field  (Sherardia  arvensis) 

, ,  Wild  \Rubia  peregrina) 

Madwort,     Madderwort     (Asperugo     pro- 
cumbens) 


536 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


Mallow,  Common  (Malva  sylvcstris} 
Manna-grass,  Reed  (Glyceria  aquatica] 
,,  Reflexed  (Glyceria  distant] 

,,  Sea  (Glyceria  maritima} 

Maple,  Common    or    Small-leaved    (Acer 

campestre} 
, ,      Great ,  Sycamore ,  Plane  of  Scotland 

(Acer  Pseudo-platanus} 
Mare's-tail,  Common  (Hippuris  vulgaris} 
Marigold,  Corn  (Chrysanthemum  segetum} 
Marsh,  King-cup,  Water  Blobs, 

(Caltha  palustris] 
Marjoram  (Origanum  vulgare) 
Marrem-grass  (Psamma  arenaria} 
Marsh-mallow  (Althssa  officinalis} 
Marshwort,  Least  (Apium  inundatum} 

,,  Procumbent      (Apium      nodi- 

florum} 

Master-wort  (Peucedanum  Ostruthium} 
Mat-grass  (Nardus  stricta} 
May-weed,  Stinking  (Anthemis  Cotula} 
Meadow-grass,  Alpine  (Poa  alpina] 
Annual  (Poa  annua} 
Bulbous  (Poa  bulbosa] 
Flat-stalked  (Poacompressa} 
Smooth  (Poa  pratensis} 
Wavy  (Poa  laxa} 
Wood  (Poa  nemoralis] 
Meadow-rue,  Alpine ( Thalictrum  alpinum} 
,,  Yellow  (Thalictrum jlavum} 

Meadow-sweet,   Queen    of  the    Meadows 

(Spireea  Ulmaria) 
Medick,  Black,  Nonsuch  (Medicago  lupu- 

lina} 

,,        Purple,  Lucerne  (Medicago  sativa] 
Medlar  (Pyrus  germanica] 
Melic,  Mountain  (Melica  nutans) 

,,      Wood  (Melica  uniflora} 
Melilot,  Common  Yellow  (Melilotus  offici- 
nalis} 

„       White  (Melilotus  alia] 
Mercury,  Annual  (Mercurialis  annua] 
,,        Dog's  (Mercurialis  perennis] 
Mezereon  (Daphne  Mezereum} 
Mignonette,  Wild  (Reseda  lutea} 
Milk-vetch,  Sweet  (Astragalus  glycyphillos] 
Milkwort,  Chalk  (Polygala  calcarea} 

,,        Common,   Gangweed  (Polygala 

•vulgaris] 

,,        Sea  (Glaux  maritima] 
Millet,      Red,     Finger  -  grass     (Panicum 

glabrum) 

Millet-grass  (Milium  e/usum] 
Mint,  Corn  (Mentha  arvensis] 


Horse  (Mentha  syl-vestris] 
Marsh  Whorled  (Mentha  sativa] 
Round-leaved  (Mentha  rotundifolia] 


Mistletoe  ( Viscum  album] 
Molinia,  Purple  (Molinia  cserulea) 
Moneywort,  Cornish  (Sibthorpia  europsea] 
Monkey-flower,  Yellow  (Mimulus  luteus] 
Monkshood,  Wolfsbane  (Aconitum  Napel- 

lus] 

Moonwort  (Botrychium  Lunaria] 
Moor-grass,  Blue  (Sesleria  caerulea] 
Moschatel,  Common   (Adoxa    Moschatel- 

lina) 


Motherwort  (Leonurus  Cardiaca] 
Mountain  Everlasting,  Cat's-foot   (Anten- 

naria  dioica] 

Mudwort,  Common  (Limosella  aquatica) 
Mugwort  (Artemisia  vulgaris} 
Mullein,  Dark  (  Verbascum  nigrum} 
,,        Great  (Verbascum  Thapsus] 
,,        Hoary  (Verbascum  pulverulentum} 
,,        Moth  (  Verbascum  Blattaria] 
,,        White  (  Verbascum  Lychnitis] 
Mustard,  Black  (Brassica  nigra} 

,,        Common     hedge     (Sisymbrium 

officinale] 

„        Garlic,  Sauce-alone,  Jack-by-the- 

hedge  (Sisymbrium  Alliaria} 

,,        Smooth  To-wzr(Arabisperfoliata} 

,,        Treacle,  Worm-seed  (Erysimum 

cheiranthoides] 
„        White  (Brassica  alba} 

Wild,  Charlock  (Brassica  Sina- 
pistrum} 

NAIAS,  Flexible  (Naias  flexilis} 
Nettle,  Great  (Urtica  dioica} 
,,       Roman  (Urtica  pilulifera] 
,,       Small  (Urtica  urens} 
Nightshade,  Black  (Solanum  nigrum} 

,,  Deadly  (Atropa  Belladonna} 

Woody,     Bitter-sweet     (Sol- 

anum  Dulcamara} 

Nipplewort,  Common  (Lapsana  communis] 
Nit-grass  (Agrostis  australis} 

OAK,  Common  (Quercus  Robur} 
Oat,  Downy  (Avena  pubescens} 
,,    False,  Common  (Avena  elatior} 
,,    Perennial,     Narrow-leaved      (Avena 

pratensis] 

,,    Wild,  Havers  (Avena  fatua} 
Orache,  Frosted  Sea  (Atriplex  laciniata} 
Grass-leaved  (Atriplex  littoralis} 
,,       Spreading  (Atriplex  patula} 
Orchid,  Bee  (Ophrys  apifera} 

,,       Bird's  Nest  (Listera  Nidus-avis} 
,,       Bog  (Malaxis  paludosa} 
,,       Butterfly  (Habenaria  btfolia} 
,,       Dark-winged    or     Dwarf   (Orchis 
ustulata} 


,,       Fen  (Liparis  Loeselli} 
,,       Fly  (Ophrys  muscifera} 


,,       Frog  (Habenaria  viridis} 

,,       Great  Brown-winged  (Orchis  pur- 

purea} 
,,      Green-  winged     Meadow     (Orchis 

Morio} 
„       Lady's  Slipper  (Cypripedium   Cal- 

ceolus} 

,,       Lax-flowered  (Orchis  laxiflora} 
,,       Lizard  (Orchis  hircina} 
,,       Man  (Acer  as  anthropophora] 
„       Marsh  (Orchis  latifolia] 
,,       Military  (Orchis  militaris} 
,,       Musk  (Hcrminium  Monorchis} 
,,       Purple  (Orchis  mascula} 
,,       Pyramidal  (Orchis  pyramidalis} 
„       Spider  (Ophrys  aranifera} 


WILD   AND   GARDEN    FLOWERS 


537 


Orchid,  Spotted  (Orchis  maculata) 
Orpine,  or  Livelong  (Sedum  Telephium) 
Osier,  Common  (Salix  viminalis) 

,,      Purple  (Salix  purpurea) 
Oxlip  (Primula  elatior) 
Ox-tongue  (Helminthia  echioides) 

PARSLEY,  Common  (Carum  Petroselinum) 
,,       Common-beaked  (Anthriscus  vul- 

garis] 

,,       Corn  (Carum  segetum) 
„        Fools  (sEthusa  Cynapium) 
,,        Milk  (Peucedanum  palustre) 
,,        Stone  (Sison  Amomum) 

Wild  Beaked  or  Chervil  (Anthris- 
cus sylvestris) 
Parsnip,  Water  (Stum  latifolium) 

,,        Wild  (Peucedanum  sativum) 
Pasque-flower  (Anemone  Pulsatilla) 
Pear,  Wild  (Pyrus  communis) 
Pearl-wort,  Annual  (Sagina  apetala) 
Pellitory-of-the-Wall     (Parietaria     offici- 

nalis) 
Penny-cress,  Alpine  (Thlaspi  alpestre] 

Mithsidate  Mustard  (Thlaspi 

arvense) 

Penny-royal  (Mentha  Pulegium) 
Pennywort,     Marsh,    White-rot     (Hydro- 

cotyle  vulgaris) 
Wall  (Cotyledon  Umbilicus) 
Pepper,  Water  (Polygonum  Hydropiper) 
Peppermint  (Mentha  piperita) 
Pepperwort,  Broad-leaved,  Dittander  (Le- 

pidium  latifolium) 
,,          Field  (Lepidium  campestre) 
Periwinkle,  Greater  ( Vinca  major] 
, ,          Lesser  ( Vinca  minor) 
Persicaria,    Common    (Polygonum    Persi- 

caria) 

,,          Creeping  (Polygonum  minus) 
Pheasant's  Eye  (Adonis  autumnalis) 
Pig-nut,  Common,  Earth-nut  (Conopodium 

denudatum) 

Pillwort  (Pilvlaria  globulifera) 
Pimpernel,     Bastard    (Centunculus   mini- 
mus) 

,,         Bog  (Anagallis  tenella) 
„>        Scarlet,  Poor  Man's  Weather 

Glass  (Anagallis  arvensis) 
, ,         Yellow  (Lysimachia  nemorum) 
Pink,  Cheddar  (Dianthus  csesius) 
,,     Clove,  Carnation  (Dianthus  Caryo- 

phyllus) 

,,     Deptford  (Dianthus  Armeria) 
„     Maiden  (Dianthus  deltoides) 
,,     Wild  (Dianthus  plumari us) 
Pipe-wort  (Eriocaulon  septangular^) 
Plantain,    Buck's    Horn  (Plantago    Coro- 

nopus\ 

„        Greater  (Plantago  major) 
,,        Hoary,  Lamb's  Tongue  (Plan- 
tago media) 

,,        Seaside  (Plantago  maritima) 
Ploughman's  Spikenard  (Inula  Conysa) 
Plum,  Wild  (Prunus  domestica) 
Pond  weed,  Common-horned  (Zannichellia 
palustris) 


Pondweed,    Fennel-leaved       (Potamogeton 

pectinatus) 

,,          Floating  (Potamogeton  natans) 
„         Grassy  -  leaved      (Potamogeton 

obtusifolius) 
„          Long-stalked         (Potamogeton 

prselongus) 

,,          Shining  (Potamogeton  lucens) 
,,          Small  (Potamogeton  pusillus) 
,,         Tassel  (Ruppia  maritima} 
Poplar,  Black  (Populus  nigra) 

,,      White,  Abele  (Populus  alba) 
Poppy,  Common  Red,  Corn  Rose  (Papaver 

Rhseas) 
„      Long,     Rough-headed     (Papaver 

Argemone) 
,,      Long,    Smooth-headed    (Papaver 

dubium) 

,,      Opium  (Papaver  somniferum) 
,,      Round,   Rough-headed    (Papaver 

hybridum) 

,,       Yellow-horned  (Glaucium  flavum) 
,,      Yellow    Welsh   (Meconopsis    cam- 

brica) 

Prickly  Saltwort  (Salsola  Kali] 
Primrose,  Bird's  Eye  (Primula farinosa) 
,,        Common  (Primula  vulgaris) 
„        Common    Evening     (CEnothera 

biennis) 

,,        Scottish  (Primula  scotica) 
Privet  (Ligustrum  vulgare) 
Purslane,  Pedunculate       Sea       (Atriplex 

pedunculata) 

„        Sea  (Arenaria  peploides) 
„        Shrubby  Sea,  Crab- weed  (A tri- 
plex portulacoides) 
„        Water  (Peplis  Portula) 

QUAKING-GRASS,  Common  (Briza  media) 

, ,  Lesser  (Briza  minor) 

Quill  wort  (Isoetes  locus  tris) 
Quinsy-wort  (Asperula  cynanchica) 

RADISH,  Wild,  White  Charlock  (Raphanus 

Raphanistrum) 

Ragged  Robin  (Lychnis  Flos-cuculi) 
Ragwort,  Common  (Senecio  Jacobsea) 
,,        Great  Fen  (Senecio paludosus) 
„        Hoary  (Senecio  eruceefolius) 
„        Marsh  (Senecio  aquaticus) 
Rampion,  Round-headed  (Phyteuma  orbi* 

culare) 

„          (Campanula  Rapunculits) 
,,          Spiked  (Phyteuma  spicatum) 
Rape,  Cole-seed  (Brassica  Napus) 
Raspberry  (Rubus  Idseus) 
Red-rattle,   Marsh,   Louse-wort    (Pedicu- 

laris  palustris) 

„          Dwarf  (Pedicularis  sylvatica) 
Reed,  Common  (Phragmites  communis) 
Reed-grass  (Phalaris  arundinacea) 
Reed-mace,    Lesser,    Cat's    Tail    (Typha 

angustifolia) 
Rest-Harrow,     Wild    Liquorice     (Ononis 

arvensis) 
Rock -cress,  Bristol  (Arabis  stricta) 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


Rock-cress,  Hairy  (Arabis  hirsuta) 

,,  Mountain  (Arabis petrsea) 

Rocket,  London  (Sisymbrium  Irio) 
, ,       Sand  (Diplotaxis  muralis) 
,,       Wall  (Diplotaxis  tenuifolia) 
Rose,  Scotch  (Rosa  spinosissima] 

,,     Wild,  Dog  Rose  (Rosa  canina) 
Rose-bay,     French     Willow    (Epilobium 

angustifolium) 
Rose-root  (Sedum  Rhodiola) 
Rowan-tree,  Mountain  Ash  (Pyrus  Aucu- 

paria) 

Rupture-wort  (Hemiaria  glabra) 
Rush,  Baltic  (Juncus  balticus) 

,,      Blunt-flowered,      Jointed      (Juncus 

obtusi/lorus) 

Capitate  (Juncus  capitatus) 
Flowering  (Butomus  umbellatus) 
Forster's  Wood  (Luzula  Forsteri) 
Great  Sea  (Juncus  acutus) 
Hard  (Juncus  glaucus) 
Heath  (Juncus  squarrosus) 
Lesser  Sea  (Juncus  maritimus) 
Round-fruited  (Juncus  compressus) 
Thread  (Juncus  fi liformis) 
Three-flowered  (Juncus  triglumis) 
Three-leaved  (Juncus  trifidus) 
Toad  (Juncus  bufonius) 
Two-flowered  (Juncus  biglumis\ 
Rye-grass,  Way-bent  (Lolium  perenne) 

SAGE,  Wild,  Clary  (Salvia  Verbenaca} 

,,      Wood  (Teucrium  Scorodonia) 
Sainfoin  (Onobrychis  sativa) 
St.  John's-wort,  Common  (Hypericum  per- 

foratum) 

(,  Large-flowered      (Hyperi- 

cum calycinum) 
„  Small  Upright  (Hypericum 

pulchrum) 

Salsify  ( Tragopogon  porrifolius) 
Samphire,  Golden  (Inula  crithmoides) 

,,          Rock  (Crithmum  maritimum] 
Sanicle,  Wood  (Sanicula  europsea] 
Saussurea,  Alpine  (Saussurea  alpina) 
Saw-wort,  Common  (Serratula  tinctoria] 
Saxifrage,     Mountain     Meadow     (Seseli 

Libanotis] 

„          Pepper  (Silaus  pratensis) 
,,         Purple       Mountain,       Golden 
Mountain  (Saxifraga  oppositi- 
folia] 
,,         White      Meadow      (Saxifraga 

granulata) 
„          Yellow       Marsh        (Saxifraga 

Hirculus) 
Scabious,  Devil's-bit,    Premorse   (Scabiosa 

succisa) 

,,         Field  (Scabiosa  arvensis) 
,,         Small  (Scabiosa  Columbaria] 
Scorpion-grass,  Creeping  Water  (Myosotis 

repens) 
„  Early      Field       (Myosotis 

collina) 

.,  Field  (Myosotis  arvensis) 

, ,  Parti-coloured      (Myosotis 

versicolor) 


Scurvy-grass,  Common  (Cochlearia    offici- 

nalis) 

,,  English  (Cochlearia  anglica) 

Sea  Beet  (Beta  maritima) 
Sea  Elite,  Annual  (Suseda  maritima) 
,,        Shrubby  (Suseda  fruticosa) 
Sea-heath  (Frankenia  lasvis) 
Sea-kale  (Crambe  maritima) 
Sea  Rocket,  Purple  (Cakile  maritima) 
Sedge,  Alpine  (Carex  alpina) 
„      Black  (Carex  atrata) 
„       Bladder  (Carex  vesicaria) 
„      Curved  ( Carex  incurva) 

Cyperus-like  (Carex Pseudo-cyperus) 
Downy-fruited  (Carex  tomentosa) 
Dwarf  Capillary  (Carex  capillaris] 
Dwarf  Silvery  (Carex  humilis) 
Elongated  (Carex  elongata) 
Fen  (Cladium  Mariscus) 
Few-flowered  (Carex pauciflora) 
Fingered  (Carex  digitata) 
Flea  (Carex pulicaris) 
Great  Drooping  (Carex pendula) 
Great  or  Fox  (Care*  vulpina) 
Great  Panicled  (Carex paniculata) 
Great  Prickly  (Carex  muricata) 
Greater  Pond  (Carex  riparia) 
Green-ribbed  (Carex  binervis) 
Heath  (Carex  ericetorum) 
Loose  (Carex  distans) 
Loose-flowered  Alpine  (Carex  rari- 

Jlora] 

Mountain  (Carex  montana) 
Mud  (Carex  limosa) 
Pale  (Carex pallescens) 
Rock  (Carex  rupestris) 
Round-headed  (Carex pilulifera) 
Sand  (Carex  arenaria) 
Short,      Brown  -  spiked       (Carex 

vaginata) 

Slender  ( Carex  fi  liformis) 
Slender-spiked  (Carex  acute) 
Smooth-stalked  (Carex  laevigata) 
Soft  Brown  (Carex  disticha) 
Stiff  Mountain  (Carex  rigida) 
Water  (Carex  aquatilis) 
Yellow  (Carex jlava) 
Self-heal  (Prunella  vulgaris) 
Service  Tree  (Pyrus  torminalis) 
Sheep's     Scabious,     Sheep's-bit     (Jasione 

montana) 
Shepherd's  Needle,  Venus'  Comb  (Scandix 

Pecten-  Veneris) 
Shepherd's    Purse,     Common     (Capsella 

Bursa-Pastoris) 

Shore-weed  (Littorella  lacustris) 
Silver- weed,  Goose-grass  (Potentiila  An- 

serina) 

Simethis,  Variegated  (Simethis  bicolor) 
Skull-cap,  Greater    (Scutellaria   galericu- 

lata) 

,,         Lesser  (Scutellaria  minor) 
Sloe,  Blackthorn  (Prunus  spinosa) 
Small  Reed,  Purple  (Calamagrostis  lanceo- 

lata) 
,,  Wood    (Calamagrostis    Epi- 


WILD   AND  GARDEN   FLOWERS 


539 


Spearwort, 


Snapdragon  (Antirrhinum  Orontium) 
Sneezewort  (Achillea  Ptarmica) 
Snowdrop  (Galanthus  nivalis) 
Snowflake,  Spring  (Leucojum  vernum) 

,,         Summer  (Leucojum  sestivum] 
Soapwort,  Fuller's   Herb  (Saponaria  offi- 

cinalis) 
Soft-grass,  Creeping  (Holcus  mollis) 

, ,          Meadow,  Yorkshire  Fog  (Holcus 

lanatus) 
Solomon's  Seal,  Angular        (Polygonatum 

officinale} 
,,  ,,      Common       (Polygonatum 

multiflorum] 

,,  ,,      Narrow-leaved     (Polygon- 

atum verticillatum) 
Sorrel,  Common  (Rumex  Acetosa) 
,,       Mountain  (Oxyria  reniformis) 
, ,       Sheep's  (Rumex  Acetosella) 
Sow-bread,  Ivy-leaved  (Cyclamen  hederse- 

folium) 
Sowthistle,  Blue  (Mulgedium  alpinum) 

Common,  Milk  Thistle  (Sonchus 

oleraceus) 

Corn  (Sonchus  arvensis) 
Great  (Ranunculus  Lingua] 
Lesser     (Ranunculus     Flam- 

mula) 
Speedwell,  Alpine  ( Veronica  alpina) 

, ,         Common  ( Veronica  officinalis) 
,,          Finger-leaved     (Veronica    tri- 

phyllos) 

,,          Germander,    Bird's-eye    (Ver- 
onica chamsedrys) 

,,          Green  Field  ( Veronica  agrestis) 
,,          Ivy -leaved  (Veronica    hederae- 

folia) 

,,          Marsh  ( Veronica  scutellata) 
, ,          Mountain  ( Veronica  man  f ana) 
, ,          Spiked  ( Veronica  spicata) 
,,         Thyme-leaved   (Veronica  ser- 

pyllifolia) 

, ,          Vernal  ( Veronica  verna) 
, ,          Wall  ( Veronica  arvensis) 
,,          Water  (  Veronica  Anagallis] 
Spiderwort,  Mountain  (Lloydia  serotina) 
Spignel,  Mew,    Bald-money  (Meum  atha- 

manticum] 

Spike-rush,  Least  (Eleocharis  acicularis) 
,,          Many  -  stemmed     (Eleocharis 

multicaulis] 

,,  Marsh  (Eleocharis  palustris) 

Spindle  Tree,  Common,  Prickwood  (Eu- 

onymus  europSBus) 
Spurge,  Broad-leaved    (Euphorbia    platy- 

phyllos)  ^ 

Dwarf  (Euphorbia  exigua} 
Hairy  (Euphorbia  pi losa) 
Irish  (Euphorbia  hibema\ 
Petty  (Euphorbia  Peplus) 
Portland  (Euphorbia  portlandica] 
Red  (Euphorbia  Peplis) 
Sea  (Euphorbia  Paralias] 
Sun  (Euphorbia  Helioscopia) 
Wood  (Euphorbia  amygdaloides) 
Spurge  Laurel  (Daphne  Laureola) 
Spurrey,  Knotted  (Sagina  nodosa) 


Spurrey,  Sandwort  (Spergularia  marina) 

,,        (Spergula  arvensis) 
Squill,  Autumnal  (Scilla  autumnalis) 

,,      Vernal  (Sctlla  vema) 
Squirrel-tail     Grass     (Hordeum     mariti- 

mum) 
Star-fruit,       Thrumwort       (Actinocarpus 

Damasonium) 
Star  of  Bethlehem,  Common  (Omithoga- 

lum  umbellatum) 
„  Drooping     (Ornitho- 

galum  nutans) 
,,  Spiked      (Ornithoga- 

lum  pyrenaicum) 
,,  Yellow  (Gagea  lutea) 

Star  Thistle,  Common  (Centaurea  Calci- 

trapa) 

Starwort,  Autumn  Water  (Callitriche  au- 
tumnalis) 

Sea  (Aster  Tripolium) 
, ,         Vernal  Water  ( Callitriche  verna ) 
Stitchwort,  Alpine  (Cerastium  trigynum) 
,,  Bog  (Stellaria  uliginosa) 

„          Greater,  Satin-flower,  Adder's 

Meat  (Stellaria  Holostea) 
„  Lesser  (Stellaria  graminea) 

Stonecrop,  Biting,     Wall-pepper    (Sedum 

acre) 

,,          English  (Sedum  anglicum) 
, ,          Hairy  (Sedum  villosum) 

White  (Sedum  album) 
Storks'    Bill,   Hemlock    (Erodium  cicuta- 

rium) 

Strapwort  (Corrigiola  littoralis) 
Strawberry,  Barren    (Potentilla    Fragari- 

astrum) 

,,         Tree  (Arbutus  Unedo) 

,,          Wild  (Fragana  vesca) 

Sundew,  Great  (Drosera  anglica) 

,,        Round-leaved   (Drosera  rotundi- 

folia) 

Sweet  Flag  (Acorus  Calamus) 
Sweet  Gale,  Bog-myrtle  (Myrica  Gale) 


TAMARISK  ( Tamarix  gallica) 

Tansy,  Common  ( Tanacetum  vulgare) 

Tare,  Common  (  Vicia  hirsuta) 

Teasel,  Small,  Shepherd's  Rod  (Dipsacus 

pilosus) 

,,       Wild  (Dipsacus  sylvestris) 
Tecsdalia,  Naked-stalked  ( Teesdalia  nudi- 

caulis) 

Thale-cress  (Sisymbrium  thaliana) 
Thistle,  Carline  (Carlina  vulgaris) 

Cotton  (Onopordon  Acanthium) 
Creeping  Plume  ( Carduus  arvensis) 
Ground  (Carduus  acaulis) 
Meadow  Plume  (Carduus pratensis) 
Melancholy  (Carduus  heterophyl- 

lus) 

Musk  (Carduus  nutans) 
Slender-flowered  (Carduus  pycno- 

cephalus) 

Spear  (Carduus  lanceolatus) 
Tuberous  Plume  (Carduus  tubero- 
se) 


540 


GARDENING   FOR    BEGINNERS 


Thistle,  Welted  (Carduus  crispus) 

,,        Woolly-headed    Plume    (Carduus 

eriophorus) 

Thrift,  Sea  Pink  (Armeria  vulgaris} 
Thyme,  Wild  ( Thymus  Serpyllum) 
Tillaea,  Mossy  ( Tillaa  muscosa) 
Timothy-grass,  Meadow  Cat's  Tail  (Phleum 

pratense) 

Toadflax,  Bastard  (Thesium  linophyllum) 
,,         Ivy  -  leaved,     Mother  -  o'  -  Thou- 
sands (Linaria  Cymbalaria) 
„         Pale-blue  (Linaria  repens) 
,,        Yellow  (Linaria  vulgaris) 
Toothwort  (Lathrcea  Squamaria) 
Tormentil,  Common  (Potentilla    Tormen- 

tilla} 
Travellers'  Joy,  Old  Man's  Beard  (Clematis 

Vitalba] 

Tree  Mallow  (Lavatera  arborea) 
Trefoil,  Bird's-foot  (Lotus  corniculatus) 
,,       Hare's-foot  (Trifolium  arvense) 
,,       Hop  (Trifolium  procumbens) 
Tulip,  Wild  ( Tulipa  sylvestris) 
Turnip,  (Brassica  Rapa) 

,,       Swedish  (Brassica  campestris) 
Tutsan  (Hypericum  Androssemum) 
Tway-blade,  Lesser  (Listera  cordata) 
,,  (Listera  ovata) 


VALERIAN,  Cats',  All-heal  (Valeriana  offi- 

cinalis) 

,,  Red-spur  (Centranthus  ruber) 

,,  Small      Marsh      (Valeriana 

dioica) 
Vernal  -  grass,     Sweet       (Anthoxanthum 

odoratum) 

Vervain  { Verbena  officinalis) 
Vetch,  Bitter  (  Vicia  Orobus) 
, ,     Common  (  Vicia  saliva) 
,,     Kidney,  Lady's  Fingers  (Anthyllis 

Vvlneraria) 

,,     Tufted  (Vicia  Cracca) 
,,     Tufted       Horseshoe      (Hippocrepis 

comosa] 

, ,      Wood  ( Vicia  sylvatica) 
Vetchling,  Crimson  (Lathyrus  Nissolia] 
,,          Meadow  (Lathyrus  pratensis] 
Villarsia,    Water    (Limnanthemum    nym~ 

phaeoides) 

Violet,  Dames'  (Hesperis  matronalis) 
, ,      Dog  ( Viola  canina) 
,,       Sweet  ( Viola  odorata] 
,,      Water  (Hottonia  palustris] 
Viper's  Bugloss  (Echium  vulgare] 


WALLFLOWER  (Cheiranthus  Cheiri) 
Wart-cress  (Nasturtium  qfficinale} 
,,          (Stnebiera  Coronopus) 
Water-Blinks  (Montiafontana) 
Water-Dropwort,  Common         ((Enantke 

fistulosa) 
„  Hemlock         (CEnanthe 

crocata) 

Parsley  ((Enantke 

Lachcnalii] 


Water-Dropwort,  Sulphur-wort  (CEnanthe 

silai folia) 
Water-Lily,  White  (Nymphsea  alba] 

,,  Yellow,   Brandy-bottle  (Nym- 

phsea luteum) 

Water  Plantain,  Floating  (Alisma  natans) 
,,  Lesser  (Alisma  ranuncu- 

loides) 

,,  (Alisma  Plantago) 

Water  Soldier  (Stratiotes  aloides) 
Water-milfoil,  Alternate-flowered    (Myrio- 

phyllum  altureifiorum) 
„  Spiked  (Myriophyllttm 

spicatum) 
„  Whorled       (Myriophylluw 

verticillatu  m 

Water-thyme  (Anacharis  canadensis) 
Water- wort  (Elatine  hexandra] 
Wayfaring  Tree  ( Viburnum  Lantana] 
Whitlow-grass,  Vernal  (Erophila  verna) 

„  Yellow      Alpine      (Draba 

aizoides) 

Whorl-grass,  Water  (Calatrosa  aquatica] 
Whortle-berry,  Bilberry  (  Vaccinium  Myr- 

tillus] 
,,  Bog      (Vaccinium     uligi- 

nosum) 
Willow,  Almond-leaved  or  French  (Salix 

triandra] 

,,  Bay-leaved  (Salix  pentandra) 
, ,  Crack,  Withy  (Salix  fragi Us) 
,,  Downy  Mountain  (Salix  Lap- 

ponum) 

,,        Dwarf  Silky  (Salix  repens) 
,,        Goat,     Common    Sallow    (Salix 

Caprea) 

,,        Least  (Salix  herbacea) 
,,        Round-eared    or    Sallow    (Salix 

aurita) 

Small  Tree  (Salix  Arbuscula) 
Tea-leaved  (Sa  lix  phylicifolia ) 
White  (Salix  alba) 
Woolly      Broad -leaved      (Salix 

lanata) 
Willow-herb,  Broad,  Smooth-leaved  (Epilo- 

bium  montanum) 
,,  Great,  Codlins    and    Cream 

(Epilobium  hirsutum) 
,,  Small-flowered  Hairy  (Epilo- 

bium parviflorum) 

Winter  Cress, Common  (Barbarea  vulgaris) 
Winter-green,  Lesser  (Pyrola  minor) 

,,  One-sided  (Pyrola  secunda] 

,,  Round  -  leaved        (Pyrola 

rotundioflia) 
,,  Single-flowered  (Pyrola  uni- 

flora) 

Woad  (I satis  tinctoria) 
Woodruff,  Sweet  (Asperula  odorata) 
Wood-sedge,  Loose-spiked    (Carex    stri- 

gosa) 

„  Starved  (Carex depauperata) 

, ,  ( Carex  sylvatica ) 

Wood  Sorrel,  Alleluia  (Oxalis  Acetosella) 
Wormwood,  Common  (Artemisia   Absin- 
thium) 
,,  Field  (Artemisia  campestris) 


WILD   AND  GARDEN  FLOWERS 


Wormwood,  Sea  (Artemisia  maritima) 
Wound- wort,  Corn  (Stachys  arvensis) 

,,  Downy  (Stachys  germanica] 

,,  Hedge  (Stachys  sylvatica] 

,,  Marsh  (Stachys  palustris] 

YARROW,  Common,  Milfoil  (Achillea  Mil- 


Yellow-Cress,  Amphibious       (Nasturtium 

amphibium] 
,,  Creeping    (Nasturtium    syl- 

vcstre) 

, ,  Marsh  ( Nasturtium  palustre) 

Yellow-rattle,  Cock's   Comb  (Rhinanthus 

Crista-galli] 
Yew  ( Taxus  baccata) 


USEFUL  TABLES    AND   LISTS 

THE  object  of  the  following  tables  and  lists  is  to  compress  as 
much  useful  information  into  as  small  a  space  as  possible, 
and  to  give  the  beginner  a  ready  guide  to  matters  of  garden 
importance. 

ANNUAL   FLOWERS 

An  annual  flower  is  so  called  because  seed  sown  in  the  spring  results  in  seedlings  that 
flower  the  same  year.  A  Tropseolum  (Nasturtium)  is  an  annual  for  this  reason  ;  and  a 
biennial  means  a  plant  the  seed  of  which  is  sown  the  year  before  the  seedlings  bloom. 
Gardeners,  and  the  term  is  used  in  its  broadest  sense,  have  yet  to  unlock  the  treasures  of 
the  annual  group  of  flowers.  Their  true  value  is  almost  unknown,  even  amongst  those 
who,  we  presume,  know  much  of  the  great  flower  life  about  them.  Of  late  years  many 
charming  kinds  have  been  raised,  flowers  which  show  a  marked  improvement  upon  the 
weedy  things  of  former  days,  and  offering  too  a  greater  variety  of  colours. 

LIST   OF   ANNUALS 

HH  =  Half-hardy.  Seed  must  be  sown  in  boxes  or  pots  in  slight  warmth,  in  early  spring, 
subsequently  planting  out  in  May  in  good  garden  soil.  Many  kinds  may  be  sown 
later  (May)  in  the  open  ground. 

H  =  Hardy.    These  may  be  sown  in  early  spring  in  the  open  ground. 

Soil  and  Aspect. — All  the  annuals  named  in  this  chart  can  be  grown  in  ordinarily  good 
garden  soil  and  in  nearly  any  aspect,  except  where  otherwise  stated. 


NAME. 

COLOUR. 

HEIGHT 
IN  FEET. 

TIME  OF 
FLOWERING. 

Acroclinium  (Everlasting)    .        .    (hh) 
Alyssum  odoratum        .        .              (h) 
Little  Gem     . 

Rose 
White,  Fragrant 

i 

July,  August 
July  to  Sept. 

Anthemis  Kelwayi        .        .              (h) 
Asters  —                                              (hh) 

Soft  Yellow 

i* 

June,  August 

Dwarf      Chrysanthemum,      Comet, 
Triumph,     Light     Blue,     Mignon, 
Ostrich  Feather,  White  Lady,  &c.    . 

(Blue,  White,) 
<  and  various   > 
1      shades       j 

itoii 

July  to  October 

Aster  sinensis  (very  fine  flower),  single  (h) 
Balsams,  in  variety      .        .        .    (hh) 
Calendula(Marigold)ofncinalis      .     (h) 

Purple 
Various 
Rich  Orange 

i 

I  tO  2 

I 

Summer 
July,  Sept. 
July,  October 

„  Meteor.fl.pl.(h) 

Orange  Striped 

I 

,,                           ,,  sulphureapl.(h) 

Sulphur 

I 

Calliopsis  grandiflora  atrosanguinea  (h) 

Dark  Crimson 

2 

"           ',', 

{Yellow,  and  \ 

,,         Drummondi  .         .         .     (h) 

Crimson      >- 
centre       J 

•i 

July,  Sept. 

,,        Crimson  King        .         .     (h) 
Canary  Creeper  (see  Annual  Climbers),  (h) 

Crimson 

* 

July,  August 

(    Crimson,     ) 

Candytuft,  in  variety     .        .        .     (h) 

<       Purple,       > 
1  White,  &c.   J 

i 

July,  Sept. 

Celosia  pyramidalis  coccinea         .  (hh) 

Scarlet 

2 

,,                ,,        aurea     . 

Golden 

2 

,,                ,,        Thompsoni    . 

Crimson 

2 

II                 II 

Note.  —  These  especially  require  to 

be  sown  in  frames  early  in  April,  and 

transplanted  to  permanent  quarters 

later  on. 

54* 


LIST   OF   ANNUALS 


543 


NAME. 

COLOUR. 

HEIGHT 
IN  FEET. 

TIME  OF 
FLOWERING. 

Centaurea  Cyanus  (Corn-Flower)  .     (h) 

(  Blue,  Purple,  ) 
\   Rose,  Flesh   ( 

3 

Early  Summer 

Chrysanthemum  tricolor        .         .     (h) 
,,                     ,,       atrococcineum 

White  &  Yellow 
Dark  Scarlet 

i 

/  Early  Summer. 
)    The  double 

,  ,                     ,  ,      burridgeanum 

White'&  Crimson 

i 

J  kinds  are  capi- 

,,                     ,,       Eclipse 
Clarkia  elegans  rosea  pi.       .              (h) 

Yellow  &  Scarlet 
Rose 

i 

2 

(,  tal  pot  plants 
July  to  Sept. 

»            >.       Purple  Kingj^ 
,,            ,  ,       Salmon  Queen 

Purple 
Salmon-Rose 

2 
2 

„ 

,,      pulchella  integripetala 
M            ,,        Mrs.  Langtry 

Magenta 
White  &  Crimson 

2 

'i 

a            i> 

Cockscombs,  in  variety         .        .  (hh) 

Note.  —  Best  grown  quickly  as  pot 

plants  ;    require  most  liberal  treat- 

ment. 

ColliTisia  bicolor    

Reddish 

i 

Summer 

A  dainty  flower 

for  cutting. 

Cosmos  bipinnatus       .... 

Purplish, 

Varies 

Autumn 

White,  &c. 

This   autumn- 

flowering  annual 

has   quickly 

gained  favour 

since  it  has  been 

rather    recently 

broughtforward. 

Itsfloweringsea- 

son     unfortu- 

nately is  too  late 

—  October  —  ex- 

cept in  very  mild 

autumns.       But 

a  correspondent 

advises    sowing 

in   February  in 

slightheat.trans- 

planting     the 

seedlings    to    a 

cold  frame  when 

2    inches    high, 

and  planting  in 

April  in  a  sunny 

place. 

,,            „        Early-flowering 

Red,  Rose, 

4 

This    new    race 

White 

is   much    better 

than      the     old 

type,      as      the 

plants     com- 

<t 

mence  to  flower 

in  July 

Dianthus  imperialis  (Double  Crimson)  (h) 
,,        sinensis  Heddewigii,  in  variety 

Crimson 
Various 

i 
1 

July,  August 

»              ,,       The  Bride.        .       .,• 

(  White  predo-  ) 

| 

\     minating      j 

4 

I  1                    It 

,,              ,,       laciniatus       superbus 

grandiflorus    . 

Various 

i 

»» 

Note.  —  The    above   forms   of  the 

Pink  are  very  beautiful  in  beds  or 

in  lines,  and  all  are  of  quite  easy 

culture. 

544 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


NAME. 

COLOUR. 

HEIGHT 
N  FEET. 

TIME  OF 
FLOWERING. 

Eschscholtzias  (Extinguisher  flowers)  (h) 

S 

June  to  Oct. 

Note.  —  These    glowing    annuals 

are    especially    well    suited  to  poor 

stony  soil,  and  frequently  grow  and 

flower    quite    freely    in    the    gravel 

paths. 

Erysimum  peroffskianum       .         .     (hj 

Orange 

I 

June,  July 

Eucharidium  Breweri    .        .        .     (h) 

Pale  Rose 

i 

ii       >» 

Eutoca  viscida       .        .        .        .     (h) 

\  Fine  intense  ) 
t         Blue         } 

2 

July,  Sept. 

Gaillardia  picta      ....  (hh) 

Yell  ow&  Crimson 

2 

11         » 

(  Dark  Grim-  ^ 

,,          ,,      lorenziana  . 

<       son  and      V 

»* 

M 

(       Yellow       J 

Note.  —  These  are  best  sown  in 

autumn  in  frames  and  planted  out 

early  in  spring,  end    of  March   or 

thereabouts. 

Godetia,  Lady  Albemarle                    (h) 

Crimson 

»$ 

,,        carminea  aurea 

Rose  &  Yellow 

I 

,,        Princess  of  Wales 

Dark  Crimson 

^ 

,  ,        Duchess  of  Albany 

White 

*| 

„        Fairy  Queen    . 

White  chiefly 

Gypsophila  elegans  rosea                     (h) 
Note.  —  By  sowing    at    intervals 

Rose 

*k 

See  Note 

of  every   three  weeks  this  may  be 

flowered  for  months  in  succession. 

Helianthus  (Sunflower)  cucumerifolius(h 
Stella 

Deep  Yellow 
Rich  Yellow 

3 
3 

July,  October 

,,        Golden  Nigger    . 

Yellow 

5 

August,  Sept. 

,,        Leviathan    .... 

Largest  Yellow 

10 

Sept.,  October 

,,        (Tithonia)  speciosa      .  (hh) 
Note.  —  Leviathan  is  a  noble  plant, 

Scarlet 

4  to  6 

August,  Sept. 

and    a    splendid  ornament  among 

shrubs,  &c.  ;  rich  and  deep  soil. 

Helichrysum,  in  variety         .         .  (hh) 

Various 

2 

August,  Sept. 

Note.  —These    are    the    so-called 

"Everlastings,"    and    may   be  cut 

and  dried  and  kept  for  use  in  winter 

in  vases. 

Heracleum  giganteum  .        .        .     (h) 

White 

12 

August 

Note.  —  Cow     parsnips    of    huge 

proportions  ;    most  suitable  for  the 

wild  garden  or  woodland. 

lonopsidium  acaule       .        .        .     (h) 

Sky  Blue 

3  inches 

June 

Note.  —  Sow  this  charming  carpet 

plant  at  intervals. 

Larkspur,    Dwarf   Rocket,  and  other 

kinds          (h) 

Various 

I  tO  2 

Midsummer 

Leptosiphon  hybridus  .        .        .     (h) 
Limnanthes  Douglas!   .        .        .     (h) 

White  &  Yellow 

I 

i 

f    May  &  June, 
\  &  July  &  Aug. 

Note.—  Fine  bee  plant;   good  for 

autumn  sowing. 

Lathyrus  azureus  (Lord  Anson's  Pea)  (h 
,,         odoratus,  in  many  varieties    . 

Blue 
Various 

2 

3  to  4 

Summer 

Note.—  The  Sweet   Pea  of  Com- 

merce.    See  special  article  (p.  56). 

LIST    OF   ANNUALS 


545 


NAME. 

COLOUR. 

HEIGHT 
IN  FEET. 

TIME  OF 
FLOWERING. 

Lavatera  (Tree  Mallow)  trimestris     (h) 

•••                ••• 

3  to  6 

Summer 

This    is    a    very 

beautiful   annu- 

al.   It  is,  though' 

tall,      not      un- 

gainly, and  the 

flowers   are   not 

unlike   those  of 

a    small    Holly- 

hock ;   they  are 

rose,  and  in  the 

variety      alba, 

pure  white.  Sow 

seed  in  April  or 

May,   outdoors, 

or  in  gentle  heat 

in    March,   and 

plant     out    thej 

seedlings.         Ill 

wants  a  space  of 

quite     eighteen 

inches. 

Linum  grandiflorum  rubrum         .     (h) 

Scarlet 

i 

Summer 

Love  Lies  Bleeding,  in  variety       .     (h) 

Various 

*J 

(    Summer  and 
\  Early  Autumn 

Lupinus  (Lupine)  luteus       .        .     (h) 

Yellow 

2 

June  to  August 

,,                      nanus 

Blue  &  White 

•I 

i>            »» 

„                       hybridus,  in  variety  . 

Various 

M            it 

„                      subcarnosus 

Flesh  &  White 

2 

ii 

Malope  grandiflora        .         .        .     (h) 

Crimson 

2 

(    Summer  and 
I        Autumn 

alba 

White 

2 

i>            ii 

,,            ,,            rosea 

Rose 

2 

It                        M 

Marigolds,  in  variety     .         .         .     (h) 
Note.  —  Some    are     given    under 

Various 

I  tO  2 

«•                      M 

their    botanical     name—  Calendula, 

which  also  see. 

'    By  frequent 

sowings, 

Mignonette,  Crimson  Giant                 (h) 
Bismarck  . 
Golden  Machet 

Crimson 
Buff 
Golden 

December  in 
pots  for  earliest. 
Then  in  March 

Machet 
Ruby 
Salmon  Queen 

Buff 
Red 
Salmon 

<       in  open,  or 
February  in 
frames,  and  in 
succession  in 

April,  May, 

and  June. 

Nasturtium,  Tom  Thumb  varieties     (h) 

Various 

I 

(    Summer  and 
I  Early  Autumn 

„          tall  climbing  sorts 

Various 

Climber 

,, 

Note.  —  These  flower  best  in  poor 

soil. 

Nemophila  insignis       .         .         .     (h) 

(  Blue,  White  \ 
\        centre        j 

* 

Early  Summer 

Nicotiana  (Tobacco)  sylvestris      .  (hh) 

White 

4 

August  to  Oct. 

,,                           affinis   . 

(1 

2  to  3 

ii            ii 

Hybrids 

Various 

,, 

ii            »i 

Note.  —  Sow  in  March  in  frames  ; 

plant  out  end  of  May. 
Nigella  damascena  (Love-in-a-Mist)  (h) 

Light  Blue 

, 

August,  Sept. 

Pea,  Sweet.     See  page  56. 

2  M 


546 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


NAME. 

COLOUR. 

HEIGHT 
IN  FEET. 

TIME  OF 
FLOWERING. 

Phacelia  campanularia          .         .     (h) 

Intense  Blue 

i 

f  June  to  August, 
(       warm  soils 

Poppies,  in  variety         .         .         .     (h) 

Various 

l4  tO  2 

(  Early  and  Late 
\       Summer 

IVote.—Such  as  the  Shirley,  Car- 

nation-flowered, and   French   kinds 

are  recommended. 

Rudbeckia  bicolor  superba    .              (h) 
Salpiglossis  sinuata        .        .        .  (hh) 

Black  &  Gold 
Various 

•i 

3105 

August,  Oct. 
Summer. 

A   very   graceful 

annual,      useful 

to    cut   for    the 

house,    but   un- 

fortunately      it 
frequently     dies 

off  wholesale.   A 

well-known  gar- 

dener writes:  — 

"  I  think  I  may 

safely    say   that 

one  reason  why 

they    are    not 

more  often  seen 

in     gardens     is 

the  aggravating 

habit  they  have 

of    dying     off 

wholesale      and 

leaving     blanks 

in   the  beds   or 

borders.       Gar- 

deners fight  shy 

of    such    plants 

when  there  are 

other  things  that 

can    take    their 

places       with 

greater  certainty. 

I    feel   perfectly 

safe    in    tracing 

the  cause  of  this 

tiresome     habit 

to    the    method 

recommended 

for     cultivation, 

i.e.    raising    the 

plants  in  warmth 

and     treating 

them    as     half- 

hardy    annuals. 

Failure  is  courted 

in  this  way,  as  a 

large  number  of 

the     plants     so 

raised  is  almost 

certain    to    col- 

lapse. If  growers 

were  content  to 

leave  the  seeds 

in    the    packets 

until   May,   and 

LIST   OF  ANNUALS 


547 


NAME. 

COLOUR. 

HEIGHT 
IN  FEET 

TIME  OF 
FLOWERING. 

Salpiglossis  sinuata         .        .        .  (hh 

Various 

3  to  5 

then  sow  where 

the    plants    are 

to   stand,    there 

would  be  no  fear 

of    blanks    anc 

very  much  better 

growth       would 

result.        The 

seed  germinates 

quickly,  and  the 

seedlings     grow 

slowly    at    first, 

though    after 

they  are   about 

3    inches     high 

progress  is  again 
rapid,    and    by 

the    middle     of 

August.orearlier 

in   hot   seasons, 

there   will  be  a 

glorious  display 

of   flower,    last- 

ing until  the  ad- 

vent of  frost  and 

an      abundance 

to  cut   from    in 

the    meanwhile. 

I  do  not  claim 

that    there    will 

be  no  losses,  as 

some    are    cer- 

tain to  die,  but 

by     judicious 
thinning,       and 

spreading      this 

operation     over 

three     or     four 

weeks,  there  will 

be  no  blanks  in 

the  bed  or  plot, 

and  satisfactory 

results   will   en- 

sue.   A  check  to 

growth     is     the 

s;reat    bane     of 

this  and  a   few 

> 

other  tender  an- 

nuals,   the    Zin-l 

nias  for  instance, 

and   1   am  sure 

that   those   who 

grow   Salpiglos- 

sis   largely    will 

agree    with    me 

hat    the   above 

s  the  only  way 

o  deal  with  them 

n  order  to  com- 

mand   success." 

The   flowers    of 

GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


NAME. 

COLOUR. 

HEIGHT 
IN  FEET. 

TIME  OP 
FLOWERING. 

Salpiglossis  sinuata       .        .        .  (hh) 

Various 

3  to  5 

the    Salpiglossis 

appear  on  slen- 

der stems  about 

3  feet  in  height, 

and  are  quaintly 

striped       and 

coloured.  Some- 

times        self- 

coloured     varie- 

ties occur,  a  pure 

yellow  or   crim- 

son,   and    these 

must     be     trea- 

sured. 

Saponaria  calabrica       .        .        .     (h) 
,,                ,,        Scarlet  Queen 

Pink 
Scarlet 

! 

July,  August 

Schizanthus  pinnatus     .         .         .  (hh) 
,,            papilionaceus 

Purple  &  White 
Chequered 

11 

June,  August 

Schizopetalon  Walked          \.        .     (h) 

White 

i 

Summer 

Statice  Suworowi  .        .        .        .     (h) 

(   Rose,  Crim-  ~\ 
<      son,  and      V 
I        White       J 

*i 

(  Early  Summer. 
I       Very  fine 

Sweet  Sultans,  in  variety        .         .     (h) 
Note.  —  Sow  in  succession. 

/Purple,  White,  \ 
J    and  Golden    > 
I       Yellow        J 

i* 

June  to  August 

Tagetes  (French  Marigold)— 

f     Very  bright 

,,       signata  pumila        :.        .  (hh) 

Yellow 

6  inches 

I  flowers  for  rich 

,,       patula,  Legion  of  Honour  (hh) 

(      Yellow  and 
(    Rich  Brown 

A  few 
inches 

/     soil.     Most 
I      effective  in 

masses. 

,,       erecta  (African  Marigold)  (hh) 

Orange  and 

2 

Autumn. 

Yellow 

The       African 

Marigolds      are 

splendid     an- 

nuals,     making 

masses  of  colour 

in    the    autumn 

garden.       They 

should  be  more 

often        grown. 

Lemon    Queen, 

lemon      colour, 

and    Prince    of 

Orange,  orange, 

are  very  rich. 

Venus'  Looking-Glass  .        .        .     (h) 

Blue 

) 

Summer 

Virginian  Stock,  in  various  colours     (h) 

(    Red,  White,   ) 
\      Crimson       ) 

* 

Early  Summer 

Viscaria  cardinalis         .    -    ,        .     (h) 
,,        coerulea  

Crimson 
Blue 
Rose 

|| 
|| 

ll 

/  Summer  and 
J  Early  Autumn. 
j  Very  profuse 

v,      flowering 

,  ! 

LIST   OF   ANNUALS  549 

Annual  Climbers. — The  small  garden,  and  for  that  matter  the  larger  ones  too,  would 
suffer  if  the  annual  climbers  were  not  available.  The  Canary  Creeper  ( Trop&olum  can- 
ariense),  which  will  cover  a  pole  or  hide  a  stretch  of  fence  in  a  single  season,  is  one  of  the 
most  useful  kinds,  and  there  is  fresh  beauty  in  its  green  leaves  and  bright  yellow  flowers. 
The  Japanese  Hop  is  a  climber  of  wonderful  growth.  It  is  irresistible,  covering  a  pergola 
or  summer-house  even  in  a  few  weeks.  Its  variegated  form  is  pretty  and  distinct. 
Sweet  Peas  will  hide  a  fence  or  scramble  over  some  ugly  spot,  not  of  great  height  ;  and 
amongst  other  climbers  are  the  popular  climbing  Nasturtiums  or  Tropaeolums,  varieties 
of  T.  lobbianum,  and  the  bright-coloured,  always  welcome  Convolvulus  major.  A 
very  pretty  red  and  yellowish  tender  annual  is  Mina  lobata,  but  it  is  not  always  a  success, 
requiring  a  very  warm  spot  and  thoroughly  well-drained  soil.  The  seeds  of  this  must 
be  sown  in  heat  in  spring,  and  the  same  may  be  written  of  Thunbcrgia  alata.  Mr. 
Greenwood  Pirn,  a  sincere  lover  of  flowers,  writes  of  the  Thunbergia  that,  "  though  in 
cultivation  for  three-quarters  of  a  century,  it  is  not  so  often  seen  as  its  merits  deserve." 
It  belongs  to  the  order  of  Acanthacese,  and  is  a  very  slender,  twining  plant,  practically  an 
annual,  though,  under  favourable  circumstances,  perennial.  It  occurs  commonly  in  six 
varieties :  white,  light  buff,  and  light  orange,  each  with  a  self-coloured  throat,  and  the 
same  series  with  a  purple- black  throat,  from  which  it  sometimes  gets  the  name  of  Black- 
eyed  Susan.  It  is  extremely  easily  grown,  and  will  do  in  the  stove,  greenhouse,  or,  after 
a  fashion,  outside,  but  an  airy  greenhouse  seems  to  suit  it  best.  Sown  in  January,  it  will 
flower  all  the  summer  with  ordinary  care,  but  look  out  for  red  spider.  Ipomcea  rubro- 
cczrulta  is  a  lovely  blue-flowered  climber  for  warm  wall.  Sow  the  seeds  under  glass  in 
April,  transplant  in  June.  A  tender  plant. 

Annual  Grasses. — Many  of  these  are  of  delicate  beauty;  they  may  be  raised  from 
seed  sown  in  spring  in  the  open  ground.  A  good  selection  would  comprise :  Agrostis 
pulchella,  a  beautiful  small  grass;  A.  nebulosa,  and  the  popular  fluffy  Hare-tail  Grass 
(Lagurus  ovatus],  which  should  be  chosen  first,  because  of  its  distinctness.  Also  beauti- 
ful are  the  large  Quaking  Grass  (Briza  maxima},  B.  minima,  which  is  smaller,  hence 
the  name  ;  Eragrostis  clegans,  a  very  graceful  grass ;  and  the  Barley  Grass  (Hordeum 
jubatum}.  The  seed  should  be  sown  early  in  April ;  and  the  seed  of  some  kinds ,  Agrostis 
pulchella  in  particular,  is  so  fine  that  it  is  necessary  to  mix  it  with  fine  soil  to  ensure  even 
distribution.  Sow  the  seeds  where  they  are  to  remain,  and  when  the  sowings  have  been 
thick,  thin  out  judiciously.  Eragrostis  elegans  is  pretty  by  waterside,  and  will  sometimes 
perpetuate  itself.  These  grasses  are  very  pretty  and  useful  for  winter  decoration,  and 
when  required  for  this  purpose  it  is  needful  to  gather  them  before  heavy  rains  occur. 
Gather  them  on  a  bright  afternoon,  tie  them  into  small  bundles,  place  in  a  dry  room  away 
from  the  window,  and  in  an  upright  position. 


55° 


GARDENING   FOR    BEGINNERS 


A  SELECTION  OF  ALPINE  AND  ROCK  PLANTS 

ABBREVIATIONS   as   follows  : — s,  shade  ;    hs,   half  shade  ;    p,  peat ; 

o,   ordinary  garden  soils  ,•  1,  loam  ;    gl,  gritty  loam  ;    rl,  rich 

loam  ;    c,    carpet   plants ;  t,    tuberous    rooted ;    tg,   of  trailing 
habit ;  b,  bulbs. 

See  also  lists  on  pages  141  and  156. 


NAME. 

COLOUR. 

TIME  OF 
FLOWERING. 

HEIGHT 

IN 

INCHES. 

SOIL. 

Acaena  microphylla   .        .              (c) 

Crimson 

June,  Aug. 

4 

o 

Acantholimon    glumaceum    (Prickly 

Thrift)    ., 

Rose 

June,  July 

6 

0 

,,                venustum  .         .    ;;:'»i 

Pink 

July,  Aug. 

6 

gl 

Achillea  (Milfoil)  ageratioides    .   <">'y; 

White 

July,  Sept. 

9 

gl 

,,       auiea     .         ;•'•<•.  *     -    .      (ci 

Golden 

ii 

b 

0 

,,       tomentosa     4.1  -•.••',    •    .      (c) 

Yellow 

1( 

6 

0 

,,       Clavennae      t;-\.  •:»••-.     . 

White 

June,  July 

9 

o 

Adonis  vernalis  .         »>.-.!   ;»      .<•.;•• 

Yellou 

Mar.  .April 

9 

rl 

,,       pyrenaica       .        .  :  \  ,-*.  •  i  v' 

May,  June 

9 

s,  gl 

vEthionema  grandiflorum  .        *t  /  ..*.- 
Ajuga  genevensis       .         .              (c) 

Pink 
Pale  Blue 

July,  Aug. 
May,  luly 

6 
9 

gl 
o 

,,      pyramidalis     *,:•;.,-       .      lc\ 

Lilac  Blue 

a        n 

9 

o 

,,       reptans  purpurea     .         .      (c) 

Blue 

i, 

6 

0 

Alyssum  saxatile        .... 

Yellow 

Spring 

4 

0 

A  most  useful  flowering  plant. 

Androsace  lanugino^a        .         .    (tg) 

Pink 

June,  Oct. 

6 

g!  , 

sarmentosa 

Rose 

June 

6 

gl,  hs 

carnea      .... 

Flesh-pink 

May,  June 

4 

gl 

Anemone  alpina  (Windflower)  . 
,,            sulphur  ea  . 

Blue 
Sulphur 

,, 

lift. 
i|  ft. 

rl 
rl 

blanda        .         .         .      (t) 

Various 

Mar.,  April 

6 

1 

Halleri       .... 

Purple 

July 

9 

1 

narcissirlora 

White 

July,  Aug. 

12 

o,  1 

p.ilmata      .         .               (i) 

Yellow 

May,  June 

12 

p,l,s 

Pulsatilla  (Pasque-flo\\er)  . 
robinsoniana       .         .      (t) 

Purple 
Sky  Blue 

Mar.,  May 
April 

12 

6 

rl 
rl 

Antennaria  tomentosa  (Cat's  Ear)  (c) 

White 

July,  Aug. 

6 

0 

Anthyllis  montana     .... 

Purple 

ii        ii 

6 

o 

Aquilegia  (Columbine)  alpina     . 
,  ,                               coerulea  . 

Blue 
Pale  Blue 

June 
June,  July 

9 
IS 

gl 

,,                                Stuarti    . 

f  Deep  Blue  ) 
t  and  White  ( 

May,  June 

9 

gl 

Arabis  (Rock  Cress)  albida 

White 

Spring 

6 

o 

There  is  a  very  pretty  double 

white. 

,,                             lucida  fol.  var.  . 

M 

June,  July 

4 

o 

Arenaria   balearica  (Sandwort)  .      (c| 

M 

ii        it 

2 

grit    - 

grandiflora.         .         .    (tg) 
Armeria  alpina  rosea  (Thrift) 

White,  large 
Rose 

May,  June 

4 
6 

0,   1 
0 

Arnebia      (Macrotomia)      echioides  ( 
(Prophet-flower)                                  ) 
Aster  alpinus      
,,          ,,       albus     .... 

Straw  Yellow 

Lilac  Blue 
White 

|  Spring  &  ) 
(  Autumn  ) 
May,  June 

12 

8 
8 

P,l 

0 
0 

,,          ,,       ruber     .... 

Rose 

ii        ii 

8 

0 

Astragalus  dasyglottis  (Milk  Vetch)  . 

Purple 

July,  Sept. 

3  trailing 

0 

ALPINE   AND   ROCK   PLANTS 


551 


NAME. 

COLOUR. 

TIME  OF 
FLOWERING. 

HEIGHT 

IN 

INCHES. 

SOIL. 

Astrantia  major 

Blush 

July,  Sept. 

9 

o 

Aubrietia  deltoidea  grandiflora 

Purple 

April,  June 

4 

o 

,,         Leichtlini 

Rose 

May,  June 

4 

o 

,,        grseca  superba     .                 . 

Lilac 

May,  July 

4 

0 

,,         Hendersoni 

Purple 

•  i        M 

5 

0 

,,         Souvenir  de  Wni.  Ingram   . 

Red-striped 

May,  June 

4 

o 

All  this  group  are  dense  grow- 

ing  carpet  plants,    covered    with 

bloom  in  spring  ;  masses  of  colour. 

Bulbocodium  vernum         .        .     (b) 

Purple 

Feb.,  Mar. 

4 

0,  1 

Campanula  (Bellflower)  alpina  . 
garganica 

Dark  Blue 
Blue  &  White 

July,  Aug. 
July,  Sept. 

9 
Trailing 

0,1 
0 

,,         hirsuta 

» 

>i 

»9 

0 

Hendersoni 

Blue 

Sept.  ,  Oct. 

12 

rl 

Hostii      .... 

Dark  Blue 

July,  Aug. 

12 

0 

,,      alba       . 

White 

ii        ii 

12 

0 

pelviformis 

Palest  Blue 

June,  July 

6 

gl.  s 

muralis    .... 

Light  Blue 

May,  June 

4 

o 

pulla        .... 
pusilla  alba 

Deep  Purple 
White 

July,  Aug. 
June,  July 

6 
6 

gl.s 

0 

Raineri    .... 

Blue 

«»        i> 

4 

l,p,» 

G.  J.  Wilson  . 

it 

July,  Sept. 

6 

0 

Cheiranthus  aipinus    (Alpine   Wall- 

flower)  ...... 

Sulphur 

April,  May 

6 

gl 

,,                   Marshall!  . 

Orange  Yellow 

•  »        it 

6 

gl 

Chionodoxa    Luciliae  (Glory  of  the 

Snow)     (b) 

Blue  &  White 

Feb.,  Mar. 

6 

o 

gigantea 

Blue 

Spring 

6 

o 

sardensis       .               (b) 

Deep  Blue 

Mar.  ,  April 

6 

o,  1 

Colch  cum  autunmale         .        .     (b) 

Lilac 

September 

6 

0 

,,         plenum     .      (b) 

,  , 

,, 

6 

0 

,,        album  pi  .     (b) 

White 

M 

6 

o 

speciosum         .        .     (b) 

Ruse  Lilac 

Sept.,  Oct. 

9 

rl 

Corydalis  nobilis        .         .               (t) 

Yellow 

April,  May 

9 

P,  s 

Crocus  speciosus        .         .         .     (b) 

Purple 

Sept.  ,  Oct. 

6 

1 

Crucianella  stylosa  coccinea       (c,  tg) 

Scarlet 

July,  Sept. 

6 

o 

Cyananthus  lobatus    .... 

Blue 

Aug.,  Oct. 

4 

gl.  P 

Cyclamen  hederoefolium     .         .     (b) 

Pink 

Sept.,  Oct. 

6 

l.p.s 

i,                    .,          album       (b) 

White 

6 

1,P,  s 

Daphne  rupestris       .        .        ,  '"  "i:-ji 
,,        Cneorum      .         .,,      .  •  -.;  \dif. 

Purple 
Rose  Purple 

Aug.  ,  Sept. 
April,  May 

6 

P,  s 
p,  s 

Dianthus  (Pinks)  aipinus    .        •      >  •* 

Red 

July,  Aug. 

4 

gl 

„          callizonus    .... 

Rose 

Summer 

4 

gl 

,,          neglectus            . 
,,          dentosus      .        .        .  :•.-•;"»" 

Pink 
Crimson 

July,  Aug. 

6 

gl 

0,  1 

glacialis  (Rock  Pink)  . 

Rose  Red 

ti 

3 

gl 

,          squarrosus  .        .         .   ,    -^. 

White 

Aug.  ,  Sept. 

9 

0 

,          fimbriatus  .... 

Lilac 

July,  Aug. 

9 

o 

,          deltoides  (Maiden  Pink) 

Red 

June,  Aug. 

9 

0 

,          cruentus     .       -*^_    . 

Blood  Red 

II                 II 

12 

1 

,         arenarius    .... 

White 

6 

gl 

Yellow 

Mar.  ,  April 

4 

0,1 

,,      ciliata      ..... 

White 

April 

4 

5--i 

Dryas  Drummondi     .        .         .    (tg) 

Yellow 

July,  Aug. 

Trailing 

gl 

octopetala        .         .         .    (tg) 

White 

M 

ly 

gl 

Edraianthus  serpyllifolius  . 
Epilobiumobcordatum  (Willow  Herb) 

Violet  Purple 
Rose  Pink 

June,  July 
Aug.,  Oct. 

6 
9 

g! 

gll  p 

Epimedium  alpinum         .          .        . 

Red 

May,  June 

9 

p,  s 

„          pinnatum  elegans    . 

Yellow 

Mar.,  May 

12 

P.l.s 

,,          musschianum  . 

White 

i>         ii 

9 

p.Li 

GARDENING    FOR   BEGINNERS 


HEIGHT 

1 

NAMK. 

COLOUR. 

TlMK   OF 

FLOWERING. 

IN 

INCHES. 

SOIL. 

Erigeron  aurantiacus 

O.ange 

July,  Aug. 

6 

0,1 

,,         glaucus        .... 

Lilac 

June,  July 

9 

o,  1 

Erinus  alpinus  ..... 

Lilac  Purple 

March,  May 

3 

grit 

„       albus  (Stork's-  Bill)      . 
Erodium  (Stork's-Bill)  hymenoides   . 

White 
Pink 

July,  Sept. 

.1 

12 

grit 

0 

,,        Manescavi  .... 

(     Purplish     ^ 
1    Crimson     ) 

June,  Aug. 

IS 

0 

,  ,        macradenum 

Pale  Purple 

•  i 

9 

gl 

,,         Reichardi    .... 

White 

July,  Oct. 

Carpiet 

gl,  s 

Genista  prostrata        .         .         .    (tg) 
,,       tinctoria  fl.  pi.        .         .    (tg) 

Yellow 
Golden 

July,  Aug.  1 

Trailing 
and 
Shrubby 

p 

Gentiana  acaulis  (Gentianella)  . 

Blue 

Spring 

6     ' 

0 

,,        bavarica      .... 

Intense  Blur 

„ 

3 

P,  1,  s 

,,        septemfida  . 

Blue.Sc  White 

Summer 

9 

gl.s 

,,        verna  

Deep  Blue 

Spring 

3 

l,s 

Geranium  cinereum   .... 

Rose  Pink 

June,  Oct. 

12 

0 

,,          sanguineum       .        . 

Red 

June,  Sept. 

6 

0 

,,                 ,,            album    . 

White 

•  i 

6 

o 

Geum  montanum       .... 

Golden 

May,  July 

9 

rl 

Gypsophylla  cerastioides    . 

White 

June,  Aug. 

6 

gl 

,,           prostrata        .         .    (tg) 

Blush 

M               „ 

Trailing 

o 

Haberlea  rhodopensis 
Hedysarum  alpinus   .... 

Bluish  lilac 
Red 

May,  Tune 

6 
6 

gl 

0 

,,          sibiricum 

(    Reddish     1 
I    Crimson     J 

.. 

6 

o 

I  lelianthemum  (Sun  Rose),  in  variety 

Various 

June,  Sept.  j 

Sub-trail- 
ing shrubs 

}° 

Hepatica,  in  variety  .... 

M 

Mar.,  April 

6 

rl,  s 

Herniaria  glabra        .         .        .     (c) 

Greenish 

Carpeter 

0 

Heuchera  sanguinea  .        .        ,  .  ',   .' 

Scarlet 

June,  July 

15 

rl.  hs 

Horminium  pyrenaicum     .       .       ;*fe 
Hutchinsia  (Noccaea)  alpina     .      (c) 

Bluish  Purple 
White 

July,  Aug. 
June,  July 

8 

6 

rl,  s 

0,   1 

Iberis  correaefolia  (Candytuft)  . 

May,  June 

8 

0 

,      sempervirens  .         .         .       -v; 

,, 

II                   M 

8 

0 

,      tenoreana        .                  .       <>*].'] 

White  &  Lilac 

II 

6 

0 

Ir  s  cristata         .         .         .         .         j  ». 

Blue 

June,  July 

4 

gl 

nudicaulis                                       & 

Purple  Blue 

May,  June 

9 

o 

pumila,  in  variety         ,         .        ^-\ 

Various 

April,  May 

6 

0 

stylosa          .         .         .        .       yi<; 

Sky  Blue 

Dec.  to  Mar. 

J  2 

D    1     S 

alba  

Ivory  \Vhite 

12 

P!      J  1      3 

u  1  s 

,,       speciosa    .... 

Azure  Blue 

Feb.,  Mar. 

9 

p,  1,  b 
P,  1,  s 

reticulata      .         .         .         .     (b) 

Rich  Violet 

•  I        it 

9 

rl 

Lewisia  rediviva         .         .         .      .•*•%- 

I 
Rose  &  White 

May,  July 

4 

(  gl,  in 
-j  rock 

tv, 

(^crevice 

« 

(  Pale  Yellow  ^ 

Leontopodium       (Gnaphalium)      al- 
pinum  (Edelweiss) 

|   and  White  | 
}     Woolly-     { 
I       heads      J 

July 

6 

j  1,  and 
s  lime- 
(  stone 

Linaria  alpina  (Alpine  Toadflax) 
Lithospermum  prostratum  (Gromwell) 
Lychnis  alpina  .                                 '..--. 

Blue  &  Purple 
Deep  Blue 
Pink 

lune,  Aug. 
May,  Sept. 
April,  May 

4 
Trailing 
6 

g! 

gl,  s 
o 

,,        Lagascae 

Rose 

June,  Aug. 

4,  trailing 

gl 

,,        pyrenaica                               *:: 

White 

April,  June 

6 

gl 

Myosotis  alpestris  (Alpine  Forget-me- 

not)         .        .                               .<•.%;; 

Blue 

•  I         ii 

4 

gl.s 

,  ,         azorica          .-•... 

Deep  Blue 

June,  July 

6 

1,  s 

Narcissus  Bulbocodium                    (b) 

Pale  Yellow 

Mar.  ,  April 

4 

1.  p 

,,        minor         .                       (b) 

Yellow 

M 

6 

rl 

ALPINE   AND   ROCK    PLANTS 


553 


NAMK. 

COLOUR. 

TIME  OP 
FLOWERING. 

HEIGHT 

IN 

INCHES. 

SOIL. 

Narcissus  minimus     .         .         .     (b) 

Yellow 

Mar.,  April 

4 

rl 

,,         pallidus  prxcox           .      (b) 

(  Sulphur  &  1 
»     Yellow      ] 

M 

g 

|i 

Nierembergiarivularis(  White  Cup)(c) 
Omphalodes  (Navel-  Wort)  luciliae    . 
,  ,            verna  (Creeping  Forget-  ( 

White 
Palest  Blue 

Deep  Blue 

June,  July 
July,  Oct. 

Mar.,  May 

6 
5 
3 

1,  s 
gl.p.hs 

Us 

CEnothera       tn.urocarpa       (Evening 

Primrose)        ....    (tg) 

Yellow 

June,  Sept. 

9 

rl 

taraxacifolia 

White 

June,  Aug. 

6 

o,  1 

Onosma  lauricum  (Golden  Drop)      . 

Yellow 

May,  July 

9 

(gl.on 
rocky 
ledge 

Othonnopj,is  cheirifolia 

M 

May,  June 

12 

1 

Ourisia  coccinea 

Scarlet 

July,  Aug. 

9 

rl,  s 

Pentstemon  glaber 

Blue 

9 

1 

,.           heterophyllus  . 

Red  and  Blue 

July,  Sept. 

12 

I 

speciosus 

Blue 

ii       ti 

6 

1 

Menziesi 

Scarlet 

June,  Aug. 

6 

gl 

Petrocallis  pyrenuica  .         .         . 

Blush 

May 

4 

gl 

Phlox  canadensis 

Slate  Blue 

April,  May 

12 

rl 

,,      frondosa  .        .         .         •      (c) 

Pink 

. 

1 

,,      Nelson!    .        .         .              (c) 

White 

4 

1,  ha 

,,     ovata        ..... 

Red 

May,  July 

12 

rl 

procumbens      .         .               (c) 

Pale  Purple 

June,  July 

4 

gl   s 

,,      verna        ....    (tg) 

(     Reddish    ) 
(     Crimson    ) 

May,  June 

Creeping 

gl 

,,      amoena    .         .         .               (c) 

Reddish  Pink 

ii 

6 

rl 

setacea  (c)  as  follows:  — 

The  Bride  . 

White 

April,  June 

4 

rgl 

Compacta  .         . 

Rose 

M 

4 

rgl 

Vivid  . 

Scarlet 

ii 

4 

rgl 

Model 

Mauve  Pink 

4 

rgl 

Atropurpurea 

Dark  Purple 

ii       ,i 

4 

rgl 

Phyleuma  comosa      .... 

Blue 

June 

6  1 

gl,  rock 
crevice 

Plumbago  Larpentae  (Ceratostigma  { 
plumbaginoi  -es)                                f 

Ultra  Blue 

Aug.,  Sept. 

rl 

Polemonium   (Jacob's   ladder)   con-  ( 
fertum     j 

Blue 

May,  June 

8 

gl 

„             Melittum 

White 

•  i         ii 

8 

gl 

Polygala  chamajb^xus       .        . 

)  White  and  1 
1      Yellow     j 

t. 

6 

1,  P,  s 

{Yellow  and  > 

•  •                 ,,              purpurea 

Purple      f 

.• 

6 

l.p.s 

Polygonum  brunonis 

Rose 

Aug.,  Oct. 

o 

,,          vaccinifoliuiu     . 
Potentilla  alpestris     .... 

Pink 
Yellow 

Aug.,  Sept. 
May,  Aug. 

6 
6 

,,          Menziesi     .... 

Orange 

6 

rl 

,,          atro-sanguinea  . 
Primula  (  Primrose)  rosea  . 
,,       cashmeriana 
denticulala    .... 

Deep  Red 
Rose  Scarlet 
Lilac  Purple 
Pale  Lilac 

Aug.,  Sept. 
Early  Spring 

9 
6  to  12 

18 

I  2 

rl,  s 
rl 
rl 

alba    . 

White 

',',          " 

12 

rl 

>•                 .I           Munroi 

Ivory  White 

(     Early     | 
\  Summer  / 

6 

rl,  s 

,,        viscosa           .... 

Rose  Purple 

Spring 

4 

gl,  s 

•»             i>       nivea 

Snow  White 

s\   s 

Note.  —  Almost     e\ery     known 

99 

species  of  Hardy   Primula  would 

De   permissible   in   this    list,   and 

quite  worthy  of  inclusion,  but  the 

554 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


NAME. 

COLOUK. 

TIME  OF 
FLOWERING. 

HEIGHT 

IN 

INCHES. 

SOIL, 

nunibei   is  too  formidable  to  give 

in    detail.      The  large   majority, 

however,  may  be  safely  regarded 

and  treated  as  in  the  case  of  the 

last  named. 

Puschkinia  scilloides          .         .      (b) 

Blue  &  White 

Spring 

6 

rl 

Ramondia  pyrenaica  (Rosette  Mul-  ) 
lein)        J 

Purple 

lune,  July 

6  I 

moist 
shady 

alba 

White 

»        ii 

6      ( 

rocks 

j   Ranunculus  (Buttercup)  alpestris    (t) 

.V 

•  I        ii 

6 

g1 

,,           amplexicaulis         .      (t) 

t  , 

April,  June 

4 

rl 

Saponaria  (Soap-  Wort)  ocymoides  1 
splendens       ....  (tg)  j 
alba    .    (tg) 

Rose  Crimson 
White 

Summer  ( 

„         1 

Rock 
trailers 

K, 
IU;i 

Saxifraga  aretioides  primulina  . 

j    Primrose    ) 
1      Yellow      } 

April,  May 

6 

gi 

,         burseriana. 

White 

Mar.,  April 

4 

gi 

,                  ,,         major         ,        . 

M 

99                     99 

4 

gi 

,          coriophylla 

,, 

April,  May 

& 

gi 

,          cochlearis  .... 

f      White,     I 
I  Pink  spots  j 

May,  June 

9 

gi 

,          Cotyledon  .... 

June 

12  10  l8 

gi 

,          longifolia    .... 

White 

Summer 

9  to  18 

gi 

.          muscoides  .        .              (c) 

Pale  Yellow 

Early  Spring 

3 

moist 

,                 ,,         atropurpurea    (c 

Crimson 

ii 

4 

ordinary 

,          hypnoides                           (c 
,         oppositifolia        .        .     (c 

White 

June 
Mar.,  April 

5 
3 

.          f 
loam, 
or  a  posi- 

,                 ,,              pyrenaica,      ) 
splendens,  and  others   .    (c)  J 

Rose  Purple 

>i         .. 

3 

tion  of 
half- 

„        Wallacei     .         .         .     (c 

White,  Large 

May,  June 

6     , 

shade 

Note.  —  The  remarks  at  foot  of 

Primulas  apply  with  equal   force 

to     this    very    numerous    family, 

which,  indeed,  is  largely  composed 

of  the  best  forms  of  Alpine  vegeta- 

tion. 

V 

August 

Various 

V<irious 

Sempervivums   ..... 

Various 

Various 

Various 

Note.  —  These  may  be  included, 

the  former  being  frequently  used  as 

carpets  to  other  flowers,  the  latter 

in  dry,  sunny  positions,  or  in  rocky 

chinks    and  crevices,    where   few 

things  thrive. 

Silene  (Catchfly)  acaulis     . 

Rose 

June,  July 

2 

gl 

,,      alpestris  .        .        .        .     (c) 

White 

•  » 

5 

o,  i 

,,      maritima  plena        .         .    (tg) 

Double  White 

it 

Trailing 

o,  1 

Sisyrinchium  (Satin-flower)    grandi-  \ 
florum    (t)J 

Red  Purple 

Mar.  ,  April 

9 

rl 

,,                        ,,           album  (t) 

Satin  White 

ii         ii 

9 

rl 

Thalictrum  anemonoides  . 

White 

April,  May 

6 

1,  p,  s 

Thymus  lanuginosus         .         .      (c) 
Tiarella  cordifolia  (Foam-flower) 

Purple 
Creamy 

June,  July 
May,  June 

Carpet 

12 

0,1 

rl 

Veronica  Allioni 

Deep  Blue 

May,  June 

6 

0,   I 

,,        prostrata     .        .        . 

,,         ,, 

June 

3 

o,l 

,,         rupestris 

Rich  Blue 

June,  July 

4 

0,1 

Zauschneria  californica 

Vermillion 

July,  Sept. 

12 

& 

.,          splendens 

Scarlet 

„       „ 

13 

Kl 

USEFUL   TABLES  555 

HARDY    PERENNIALS 

EXCLUDING   BULBS  AND  ANNUALS 

Except  where  otherwise  stated  the  plants  named  in  the  following  tables  can 
be  grcnvn  in  ordinarily  good  garden  soil. 


HEIGHT  AND 

NAME. 

COLOUR. 

TIME  OF 

GENERAL  REMARKS. 

FLOWERING. 

Acanthus  (Bear's  Breech)  . 

Brownish 

About  3  ft., 

Valuable  for  their  foli- 

and White 

Summer 

age.    Useful  to  group 

in  the  garden  ;  warm 

soil  ;  hardy  ;  several 

kinds  —  H.  spinosissi- 

mus  and  A.    mollis 

latifolius  the  finest. 

Achillea  mongolica    . 

White 

i£  ft.,  April 

Very  useful  for  cutting. 

&  May 

,,         Ptarmica        (The 

Double  White 

2^  ft.,  June 

This  is  better  than  the 

Pearl) 

&  July 

ordinary  Sneezewort 

(A.  Ptarmica  fl.  pi.). 

,  ,               ,  ,    Perry's  Var 

»>        ii 

M                  »l 

Valuable  novelty. 

Aconitum  (Aconite)  .         .  ^ 
,,          Napellus  .         .  \ 
,,         autumnale        .J 

Blue 

Autumn,  3  ft. 
to  5  ft. 

(  A.    Napellus    has    a 
I    poisonous  root. 

Alstroemerias       (Peruvian 

Various  colour? 

About  2^  ft., 

There  are  several  kinds 

Lilies) 

Oct. 

and     hybrids.        A. 

aurea  is  very  rich  in 

colour.      Masses    of 

these  in  a  rich  ,  warm 

soil  are  very  charm- 

ing.    They  are  often 

finer  against  a  warm 

wall  than  in  the  bor- 

der.    Plant  about  6 

inches  deep;  remove 

seed  pods  ;  mulch  in 

summer,  and  protect 

the  crowns  in  severe 

winters    with     well- 

decayed     leaves     or 

similar  material. 

Anchusa  italica  (Dropmore 

Blue 

About  3  ft., 

A  useful  plant  for  bees. 

variety)                  t 

Summer. 

Anemone    blanda    (Wind- 

Blue,  White,  and 

Quite  early  in 

Very    pretty    in    rock 

flower 

other  shades 

year,  6  in. 

garden  in  warm  soils. 

,,      apennina 

Blue 

Spring,  6  in. 

Very  beautiful  in  colon- 

ies in  grass,  border, 

or  rock  garden. 

,,       Pulsatilla  (Pasque- 

Purple 

About  Easter, 

Warm,  gritty  soil. 

flower) 

9  in. 

,,      sylvestris    and    S. 

White 

May  &  June, 

Not   very  trustworthy, 

plena  (Snowdrop 
Wind-flower) 

lift. 

but  very  pretty. 

'Noble  plants  for  the 

border  ;  grow  well  in 

masses,  especially  the 

white    kind.        The 

,,      japonica  rubra 
ii            >,        alba  (Jap- 
anese     Wind- 
flowers) 

Red 

White 

f    3  to  4  ft., 
\  Aug.,  Sept., 
I         Oct. 

white  Japanese  Ane- 
mone is  one  of  the 
first  hardy  perennials 
the  beginner  should 

grow.     Its  tall  stems 

of  white  flowers  are 

very    beautiful,    and 

„  very  useful  for  cutting. 

556 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


HEIGHT  AND 

NAME. 

COLOUR. 

TIME  OF 

GENERAL  REMARKS. 

FLOWERING. 

Anthericum     (St.     Bruno's 
Lily)  Liliastrum 
,,         Liliastrum  major 

White 

White,  large 
flower 

(  2  ft.  ,  Early 
{     Summer 

f  The  major  form  is  very 
1  fine   in    the    border  ;  j 
rather     warm      soil  ; 
divide  roots  in  autumn 

^  for  increase. 

Aquilegia  (Columbine)  Cali- 

Beautiful  Orange 

2  ft.,  May-     \ 

fornica  hybrids 

Scarlet,  &c. 

July 

,,        coerulea  hybrids  . 

Blue>White,  &c.     ,i  ft.  June-   ;  1  Spedal  not£  Qn  p  IO 

,,        chrysantha  . 

Pale  Yellow     |    3  ft.  to  4  ft.     ! 

,,        glandulosa  . 

Blue  and  White           2^  ft.           J 

Arnebia  (Macrotomia)  echi- 

Sulphur  Yellow,            i  ft.             A     well-drained     soil. 

oides  (Prophet-flower) 

with       dark                                     Increased  by  division 
spots,  which                                     in     Spring    and    by 

disappear  as 

seeds     when     avail- 

the      flower 

able. 

ages. 

ASTERS— STARWORTS    OR    MICHAELMAS    DAISIES 


NAME. 

TIME  OF 
FLOWERING. 

HEIGHT. 
FEET. 

REMARKS. 

Aster  acris     . 

Aug.  3rd  wk. 

3 

Light  blue,  very  effective,  and 

fine  for  any  purpose. 

Acris  albus    . 

Aug. 

2 

Pretty  white  variety. 

,,     roseus  . 

M 

2 

Rosy  mauve. 

Amellus  bessarabicus    . 

Sept.  ist    ,, 

«J 

Pleasing  blue,  large  flowers. 

Beaute  Parfait  . 

2 

Deep  blue,  splendid  variety. 

H.  J.  Cutbush  . 

2 

Rosy  pink,  extra. 

Perry's  Pink    . 

2 

Reddish  pink,  one  of  the  best. 

Ultramarine    . 

2 

Deepest  blue,  starry  flowers. 

Comet     . 

2 

Deep  mauve,  charming  variety. 

Perle  Rose 

J2 

Palest  rose,  dwarf. 

major 

ist    ,, 

2i 

Larger  flowers,  and  more  com- 

pact than  above. 

Framfieldi 

Oct.    ist 

2* 

Lilac  blue. 

Riverslea  . 
Ptarmicoides 

Sept.  4th 
,,      ist 

4 

I 

Deep  purplish  blue,  distinct. 
Very  small  white  flowers,  dwarf 

and  compact. 

Cordifolius  major  . 

,,     3rd 

5 

Beautiful  lilac  flowers. 

,  ,        elegans  . 

Oct.    ist 

5 

Very  graceful  habit,  soft  lilac 

flowers  in  abundance. 

,,         Diana    . 

,,    2nd  and 

4* 

Charming  and  distinct  variety, 

3rd  wk. 

one  of  the  best. 

White  Diana 

Oct. 

3 

Graceful  sprays,  white. 

Little  Boy  Blue 
,  ,         Little  Bo  Peep 

;; 

ii 

Pale  blue,  greatly  admired. 
Colour,  French  grey,  beautiful 

variety. 

Ideal      . 

M 

3} 

Lovely  shade  of  pale  blue. 

Corymbosus  . 

Aug.   ist    ,, 

3 

Very     early    white,     distinct 

Diffusus  horizontalis 

Oct.  2nd    ,, 

4 

species. 
Bronzy  red  and  white  flowers, 

very  effective. 

HARDY    PERENNIALS 


557 


NAME. 

TIME  OF 
FLOWERING. 

HEIGHT. 
FEET. 

REMARKS. 

Diffusus   Coombe  Fish- 

Oct.  2nd  wk. 

3 

Flesh-coloured    flowers,    very 

acre 

free  and  fine,  one  of  the  best 

to  withstand  the  wet. 

,,         Bianca    . 
Dumosus  (syn.  fragilis)  . 

Sept.  4th    ,, 

'i 

Lovely  pure  white  variety. 
Very    bushy     and     compact, 

mauve  flowers. 

Ericoides 

Oct.  3rd    „               3 

Drooping     sprays     of     white 

I 

flowers. 

,,        elegans  . 

„      ist    ,,     |           3 

Earlier  than  above,  and  very 

free  flowering. 

,  ,         Perfection 

,, 

4 

The  best  white  variety  in  this 

class. 

Daydream 

,  , 

34 

Lovely  shade  of  mauve. 

,,         Desire     . 

4 

Of  upright  growth,  reminded 

one  of  a  large  growing  heath  ; 

white. 

Hon.       Edith 

,, 

4 

Charming  mauve  variety. 

Gibbs  . 

,,        Star  Shower   . 

Si 

Graceful  sprays,  white. 

,,        Simplicity 

M 

4 

Pale  blue,  one  of  the  best. 

Asteroides 

Sept.  and    ,  , 

6 

Pale     flesh-coloured     flowers, 

Henryi  (species)     . 

it        ISt     ,, 

2 

very  pleasing  and  lasting. 
Bright    blue    flowers,   distinct 

species. 

Shorti  (species) 

ist    ,, 

4 

Pale  blue  flowers,  very  good. 

Vimineus       .        « 

Oct.  2nd    ,, 

3 

Similar  to  ericoides,  but  of  more 

twiggy  growth. 

,  ,        Cassiope 

Sept.  4th    ,, 

21? 

Earlier,  and  very  dense  growth. 

,,         nanus 

,,     4th    ,, 

l| 

Earlier,    and     much    smaller 

flowers. 

,  ,         Hon.     Vicary 

Oct. 

2 

Lovely  shade  of  pink,  distinct. 

Gibbs 

Esther   . 

M 

ii 

Dwarf  and  distinct  pink. 

Pyrenaeus 
Umbellatus  . 

Aug.  3rd    ,  , 
,,     4th    ,, 

4 

5 

Dwarf,  large  pale  blue  flowers. 
Silvery  white  flowers,  very  dis- 

tinct species. 

Lindleyanus  nanus 

Oct.  2nd    ,, 

2 

Very  compact,  small  rosy  lilac 

flowers. 

Turbinellus   .        ,.,      . 

,,  and  Nov.  j          4 

Light  and  graceful,  large  violet 

> 

flowers,  tipped  rose. 

,  ,          albus  . 

,  ,     3rd  wk.             3^ 

Smaller  than  above,  with  white 

flowers. 

Grandiflorus  . 

Nov.  2nd   ,, 

, 

Large  deep  violet  flowers,  very 

late  and  distinct. 

Tradescantia  (species)   . 

,,    2nd    ,,              4 

Pure  white,  very  effective. 

Chapmanni  (species)     . 

Oct.   3rd    ,, 

5 

Blue,  very  graceful. 

ASTERS— NOVI   BELGI  TYPE  AND   HYBRID  VARIETIES 


NAME. 

TIME  OF 
FLOWERING. 

HEIGHT. 
FEET. 

\ 
REMARKS. 

Arcturus 
Amethyst       .        * 

Sept.  4th  wk. 
Oct. 

4i 

:l 

Purplish    blue    flowers,    very 
showy. 
Lovely  blue-flowered  variety. 
Bright  pink,  large  flowers,  good 

St.  Egwin      . 

Early  Oct. 

3 

habit. 
Large  pink  flowers. 

GARDENING   FOR    BEGINNERS 


NAME. 

TIME  OF 
FLOWERING. 

HEIGHT. 
FEET. 

REMARKS. 

Avalanche 

Oct. 

4 

The  best  large-flowered  white  ; 

bushy  habit. 

Peggy  Ballard 

3 

Semi-double,    distinct   colour, 

Laevigatus     . 
White  Spray  . 

Sept.  4th  wk. 
„     3rd    „ 

•1 

5 

pale  purple. 
Bright  pink,  excellent. 
Best  late  white,  large  twisted 

petals. 

Formosissimus 

Sept.  4th 

4 

Erect  habit,  rosy  lilac  flowers. 

Madonna 

,,     3rd 

3 

Compact,  large  flowered  white. 

Minerva 

Oct.  snd 

4 

Deep  rosy  lilac,  large  and  free. 

Purity    .... 

Sept.  3rd 

5 

Early  flowering  white. 

Versicolor 

ISt 

4* 

White,  changing  to  purple. 

,,          Themis 

Oct.  2nd 

2 

White,    changing    to    purple, 

compact  and  free. 

Beauty  of  Colwall  (Novae 

Sept. 

4 

Flowers    double,    violet    blue. 

Belgi) 

Handsome  variety. 

Climax  (Novae  Belgi)    . 

Oct. 

5-6 

The     grandest     blue-flowered 
Michaelmas  Daisy  yet  raised. 

ASTERS— 


ANGLIC   TYPE 


NAME. 

TIME  OF 
FLOWERING. 

HEIGHT. 
FEET. 

REMARKS. 

Novae  Angliae  praecox   . 

Sept.  2nd  wk. 

4 

Crimson  and   purple   flowers, 

earliest  of  this  type. 

Novae  Angliae  (Mrs.  J. 

Oct.    ist    ,, 

4 

Vivid  large    crimson   flowers, 

F.  Raynor) 

improvement  on  N.  A.  ruber. 

Novae  Angliae  roseus     . 

,,     2nd    ,, 

5 

Rose-coloured  flowers. 

Novae  Angliae  ruber 

,,     3rd    „ 

si 

Rich  crimson  flowers. 

Novae  Angliae  pulchellus 

,,    2nd    ,, 

42 

Violet  blue  flowers. 

Novae     Angliae     (Wm. 

,,      ist    ,, 

5 

Rosy     purple,     with     golden 

Bowman) 

bronze  disc. 

Novae  Angliae   (Melpo- 

,,    2nd    ,, 

4| 

Large  light  purple. 

mene) 

Lil.  Fardell   . 

Oct. 

4 

Large,   rosy-coloured   flowers, 

with  a  silvery  sheen. 

ASTERS— DWARF   ALPINE   VARIETIES 

SUITABLE   FOR   THE   FRONT   OF   HERBACEOUS   BORDER   OR   ROCKERY 


NAME. 

TIME  OF 
FLOWERING. 

HEIGHT. 

REMARKS. 

Aster  alpinus  albus 
,,           ,,       rubra 
,,           ,,       magnificus 

,,          ,,       superbus  . 
,,  Thompsoni  (species) 

May  to  June. 

July,  Nov- 
ember. 

9  in. 
9  in. 
9  in. 

i  ft. 

2ft. 

A  good  white  variety. 
An  attractive  red. 
The  largest  of  Alpine  varieties, 
bright  violet  blue. 
Branching   stems  surmounted 
with  purplish  blue  flowers. 
Pale  lavender  ;  is  one  of  the 
best  border  plants  grown. 

HARDY    PERENNIALS 


559 


COLOUR,  AND 

NAME. 

TIME  OF 

HEIGHT. 

1?wr 

GENERAL  REMARKS. 

FLOWERING. 

IT  KlL  1  . 

Bocconia    cordata   (Plume 

Brownish 

Over  6 

A  very  handsome  plant  for 

Poppy) 

rougher  parts  of  the  gar- 
den.   Picturesque  silvery- 

toned  leaves  and  brownish 

flower  scapes.     Easily  in- 

creased by  division  of  the 

roots. 

Buphthalraum  speciosum  . 

Yellow 

Tall 

This  is  not  a  plant  for  small 
borders,  it  is  too  rough  ; 

but  for  grouping  in  the 

wilder  parts  is  very  useful. 

Increased  byroot  division. 

Also  called  Telekia  spe- 

cicsa. 

Camassia  esculenta  (Qua- 
masb) 

Blue,  but  there 
is  a  white 

*4  to  3 

Very  pleasing  plant  ;  likes  a 
rather  moist  soil. 

variety  ;  July 

Campanulas  (Bell-flowers)  . 
Catananche  caerulea  (Blue 

Blue  and  White 

Various 

4 

See  separate  note  (p.  17). 
Easily   grown    and    raised 

Cupidone) 

from  seed. 

Centaurea  babylonica 

Yellow  ; 

10 

Loamy  soil  ;    very  strong- 

Summer  and 

growing,    silvery  -  leaved 

early  Autumn 

plant  ;    spikes  of  yellow 

flowers  ;    often   beautiful 

on  a  wall. 

„         macrocephala  . 

Golden  Yellow  ; 
Summer 

5 

Strong  plant  ;  too  much  so 
ordinary  borders. 

,,          montana 

Red  &  White; 

*h 

Quite    happy  almost    any- 

2 forms  ; 

where. 

Summer 

Centranthus    ruber     (Red 
Valerian) 

Red  ;  Summer 
and  Autumn 

2 

A  very  hardy  and  beautiful 
plant,  particularly  useful 

for  old  walls  or  rockwork 

where    bold    effects    are 

desired. 

Cheiranthus  Cheiri  (Com-  j         Spring 

Various 

The  Wallflower   is   a  fra- 

mon Wallflower) 

grant  and  familiar  garden 

flower,  scenting  the  bor- 

.-ft/ 

ders  with  its  rich  perfume 
in  the  springtime  of  the 

year.     It  is  often  happy 

in  the  chinks  and  crevices 

of  old  walls.     Very  effec- 

tive   are    such    sorts    as 

Belvoir  Castle,  much  used 

in  the  famous  spring  gar- 

dening at  Belvoir  Castle  ; 

Harbinger,       and       the 

rich-coloured    blood-red. 

There  are  double  Wall- 

flowers,      too.       Single 

Wallflowers     are    easily 

raised   from    seed    sown 

in    early    May.      Trans- 

plant the  seedlings,  other- 

wise   the    tap    root    de- 

velops unchecked.     It  is 

wise  to  plant  the  Wall- 

flowers   in   their   perma- 

560 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


NAME. 

COLOUR,  AND 
TIME  OF 
FLOWERING. 

HEIGHT. 
FEET. 

GENERAL  REMARKS. 

Cheiranthus  Cheiri   (Com- 

Spring 

Various 

nent  quarters  about  the 

mon  Wallflower 

end     of     June.      When 

planted  very  late  in  the 

autumn  or  in  the  follow- 

ing   spring,    frosts    play 

havoc  with  the  growth. 

Chelone  Lyoni  . 

Deep  Pink  ; 
Late  Summer 

4 

fVery  graceful  plants,  with 
spikes  of  bright  blossom. 
Increased    by   division. 

,,        obliqua 

Lighter  Pink  ; 

•1 

j      seeds,  or  by  cuttings.    A 

Late  Summer 

group  of  them  is  interest- 

*     ing. 

Chrysanthemum  maximum 

White  ;  July, 

2 

A  good  border  plant,  easily 

Aug. 

grown. 

Convolvulus  mauritanicus  . 

Blue 

•  •• 

This   is  a  prostrate   plant, 

and  very  beautiful  as  an 

edging  in  warm  soils  and 

sunny  positions. 

Coreopsis  lanceolata  gran- 

Golden  Yellow  ; 

2  or  3 

A  glorious  plant.  Sow  seeds 

diflora 

July-Sept. 

in  spring,  and  plant  out 

in  autumn  for  flowering 

next  year. 

Dictamnus  (Burning  Bush) 

Reddish 

3 

(  A  quaint  border,  called  also 

Fraxinella 

July,  Aug. 

<      Burning  Bush;  light.dry 

alba 

White 

3 

\     soil  ;  partial  shade. 

Doronicum  Clusi 
,,         plantagineum 
excelsum 

(  Rich  Yellow;  ) 
\  April,  May   ( 

2 

3 

(  Vigorous,  early  -  flowering 
\        border  plants. 

Delphinium    (Perennial 

Various  Colours 

Various 

See  separate  article  (p.  18). 

Larkspurs) 

Delphinium  Belladonna     . 

Pale  Blue 

2 

A  charming  kind.      Slugs 

are  very  fond  of   it.     At 

good  group  is  delightful. 

Dielytra  spectabilis  (Lyre- 
flower  or  Bleeding  Heart) 

Rose 

3 

A  pretty  early  border  plant, 
so  early  that  it  sometimes 

gets   cut  by  late   frosts  ; 

light  soil  ;    much  grown 

in  pots. 

Dodecatheon    Jeffrey! 

Purple  ;  early 

2 

A   favourite   hardy    border 

(American  Cowslip) 

Summer 

plant,  one  of  the  best  of 

its  group.     Good  loam, 

and  increased  by  division. 

Echmacea  purpurea  . 

Reddish-Purple 

34 

Ordinary  soil. 

Aug.,  Sept. 

Echinops(Globe  Thistle)  Ritro 
„       sphaerocephalus    . 

Bluish  heads 
White  heads 

4 
4 

1  Ordinary  soils,  but  not  too 
damp. 

Aug.  ,  Sept. 

Noble  plants  to  group  with 

bold,    hardy    perennials. 

Rich    loam,    not   heavy; 

well    drained,    sheltered 

Eremurus  himalaicus      •    . 

White 

4-5 

position.        Give     yearly 

„         robustus     . 

Pink  &  Peach  ; 

9-10 

I     mulch    of   well  -decayed 

May,  June 

manure.  Plant  in  autumn. 

During    severe    weather 

give  protection  with  some 

such   material   as   cocoa- 

nut  fibre  refuse. 

Erigeron  (Fleabane)  specio- 
sus  superbus 

Purplish  Blue  ; 
May,  June,  and 

M 

Almost    any    soil.       Most 
useful  plant  for  its   long 

Autumn 

flowering-time. 

HARDY   PERENNIALS 


561 


NAME. 

COLOUR,  AND 
TIME  OF 
FLOWERING. 

HEIGHT. 
FEET. 

GENERAL  REMARKS, 

Eryngiums  (Sea  Hollies)     . 

Steely-  Blue 

Various 

The  Eryngiums  form  an  im- 

bracts ;  Autumn 

portant  group  of  garden 

plants.    Their  steely-blue 

stems  are  useful  in  winter 

decorations.       A    warm, 

dry  border   is  the   place 

for  them.     E.  maritimum 

is  our  native  Sea  Holly  of 

the   beach.      The    finest 

kinds  are  the  small-flow- 

ered E.  planum,  E.  olivi- 

erianum.  E.  alpinum,  and 

E.  giganteum. 

Funkias  (Plantain  Lilies)  . 

Various 

i> 

There  are  several  beautiful 
Funkias,    plants    of  im- 

portance for  their  hand- 

some foliage,  and  spikes 

of    often    very    fragrant 

white    flowers.       A    few 

have   variegated  foliage, 

one  of  the  most  pleasing 

being  F.  undulata  varie- 

gata.      F.    lancifolia  has 

white  flowers,  and  of  this 

species  there   are   pretty 

variegated      forms.       F. 

ovata  is  also  well  known, 

and  F.  Sieboldi.     But  for 

ordinary  gardens,  F.  sub- 

cordata   grandiflora   and 

F.  Sieboldi  are  the  only 

Funkias  one  need  trouble 

about.      If  the  flower  is 

wanted  (and  it  is  a  pretty 

and  desirable  bunch    of 

white,    lily-  like    bloom), 

F.  grandiflora  should  have 

a  sunny  place,  but  here 

the  leaves  are  apt  to  burn, 

and  to  turn  yellow.     Its 

> 

best  use  is  probably  as  a 
plant  for  foliage,  and  in  a 

half  shady  place,   where 

it    never    receives   direct 

sunshine,  it  may  be  seen 

at  its  best.     It  is  also  a 

capital  pot  or  tub  plant, 

especially  for  town   gar- 

dens.    Plant  in  autumn. 

Gaillardias          .        ,        , 

Crimson,  Yellow 

Warm  soils.     Easily  raised 

and  Old  Gold  ; 

from     seeds.       Sow    in 

Summer,  Au- 

March. 

tumn 

Galax  aphylla  (Wand  Plant) 

White  ;  Summer 

8  inches 

The    leaves    of    this    neat 
North  American  plant  arc 
heart-shaped  and  prettily 

toothed  at  the  edges,  of 

thin  but  firm  texture,  and 

boldly  carried  on  strong 

but     slender     wire  -  like 

stalks  from   4   inches   to 

2  N 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


NAME. 

COLOUR,  AND 
TIME  OF 
FLOWERING. 

HEIGHT. 
FEET. 

GENERAL  REMARKS. 

Galax  aphylla    .        .        , 

White  ;  Summer 

8  inches 

9  inches  high,  and  some- 

times   higher   still   when 

well-established     clumps 

are  growing  in  the  moist 
peaty    leaf  -  mould    that 

suits  it  best.     The  bloom 

is  a  slender  spike  of  white 

flowers   in   July;    but    in 

midwinter  the  beauty  of 

the  plant  is  in  the  high 

colouring  of  the   leaves. 

Some  are  of  a  fine  red  tint 

throughout  ;    others    are 

spotted  and  marbled  with 

red    upon    a    ground  of 

pale   green,  and   have  a 
border    that     is    almost 

scarlet.      One   may  look 

at  a  dozen  leaves  and  find 

in  each   a   different  pro- 

portion and  disposition  of 

the  red  colouring,  but  all 

have  the  same  aspect  of 

neat    and    well  -  ordered 

beauty.      It    is    perfectly 

hardy  ;    a    plant    for  all 

Great     Britain,     in     cool 

rocky  nooks  or  peat  bed 

edges. 

'  This  is  a  trio  of  very  beauti- 

Gentiana acaulis  (Gentian- 

Blue;  April, 

) 

ful  Gentians  for  the  bor- 

ella) 

May 

der.     G.  asclepiadea  likes 

,,        asclepiadea 

Purple  Blue  ; 

2 

shade    and   shelter,   and 

Aug.  ,  Sept. 

for  that  reason   may  be 

,,        septemfida. 

Bright  Blue  ; 
July-Sept. 

( 

put     in     the    woodland. 
Septemfida      enjoys      a 

„  moist,  light  soil. 

Geranium  armenum  . 
,,         Endressi    . 

Crimson  Purple; 
June,  July 
Rose  ;  June- 

2 

4 

1  Beautiful    border    plants  ; 
f  G.  armenum  is  one  of  the 

Sept. 

1    finest. 

Galega  (Goat's-rue)  officinalis 
.,  alba 

Purplish 
Pure  White  ; 

2-3 
2-3 

{Quite  at  home  in  ordinary 
soils.     Both  are  very  use- 

Summer 

ful  for  cutting. 

Gaura  Lindheimeri    . 

Rose  ;  Summer 

4 

Warm,  light  soils. 

Geum  coccineum  plenum  . 

Shades  of  Orange 

2 

and  Scarlet  ; 

,,      Heldreichi 

July,  Aug. 
Ditto  ;  June, 

«! 

Effective  border  plants,  and 
•  very    useful.       Continue 

,,       miniatum 
,,       Mrs.  H.  J.  Bradsha  .\ 

July 
{Ditto;  Spring; 
Scarlet, 
Autumn 

!• 

long  in  bloom. 

Gillenia  trifoliata 

White;  June, 

=4 

A    pretty,    slender-spiked 

July 

flower. 

Gypsophila  paniculata 

Small,  white, 
fleecy,  lace-like 
flowers  ;  Aug. 

2 

/This  is  a  very  useful  plant, 
making  billowy  masses  of 
J    white  bloom.     The  lace- 

it                ii        fl-  pl- 

Double 

2            I    like  flowers  are  much  sold 

V  in  the  London  streets. 

HARDY   PERENNIALS 


563 


NAME. 

COLOUR,  AND 
TIME  OF 
FLOWERING. 

HEIGHT. 
FEET. 

GENERAL  REMARKS. 

Helianthus  (Perennial  Sun- 

Yellow, 

Various 

Strong  -  growing       plants  ; 

flowers) 

Autumn 

useful  for  cutting. 

Helleborus   niger    (Christ- 

White, 

i 

The  Christmas   Rose   is  a 

mas  Rose) 

Winter 

beautiful  pearly  flower  of 

winter,  evergreen,  and  a 

pleasure  to  seek  for    in 

December,  when  the  rose- 

tinted  buds  nestle  among 

the     full    green    foliage. 

There  are  several  charm- 

ing varieties,  and  by  judi- 

cious    selection     flowers 

may  be  obtained  through- 

out  the  winter   months. 

Hellebores  are  not  diffi- 

cult to  manage.      Their 

chief    requirement    is    a 

well-prepared    soil     and 

sheltered   position.      Be- 

fore planting  well  trench 

the  site  three  feet  deep, 

adding    plenty    of   well- 

decayed     manure  ;     and 

•  r. 

choose    strong    crowns, 
putting  them  about  three 

feet     apart     each     way. 

When  the  Hellebores  are 

planted  to  form  a  margin 

it  is  not,  of  course,  pos- 

sible to  put  a  hand-light 

or  frame  over  them  with- 

out probably  making  an 
ugly  blotch  in  the  garden  ; 

but  a  hand-light  certainly 

protects  the  flowers  from 

rains    and    frosts,    and, 

when  protection  is  given 

^ 

before  the  buds  open,  the 

fully  expanded  flowers  are 

quite  unsullied.     A  few 

clumps  of  Hellebores  pro- 

vide  plenty  of   material 

for  cutting.     Where  cut 

flowers,  especially  in  win- 

ter,  are   desired,    put    a 

strong  crown  or  crowns 

in    tubs,    or    even   deep 

boxes,    and    transfer    to 

the  greenhouse  to  flower. 

The  time  to  plant  Christ- 

mas Roses  is  the  autumn. 

Propagation       is       best 

effected    by    division    of 

the  roots  in  August  and 

September.       The   most 

beautiful     varieties     are 

the    following  :  —  Maxi- 

mus,  also  known  as  alti- 

folius,  should  be  selected 

where  there  is  space  for 

only  one  kind  ;  it  blooms 

564 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


NAME. 

COLOUR,  AND 
TIME  OF 
FLOWERING. 

HEIGHT. 
FEET. 

GENERAL  REMARKS. 

Helleborus    niger    (Christ- 
mas Rose) 

White 

i 

early    (November),    and 
has  white  or  rose-tinted 
flowers    about    3    inches 

across,  and  three  flowers 

sometimes      appear     on 

each     stem.        Angus  ti- 

folius,  as  the  name  sug- 

gests, has  narrow  leaves  ; 

its      flowers      are      very 

pure.      St.    Brigid    (syn. 

Juvernis)  has  pale  green 

leaves,  apple-green  flower 

stems,     and     very     pure 

white,  cup-shaped  flowers. 

Major,      or      the      Bath 

variety,  is  a  noble  kind, 

and    much    grown   as   a 

market  flower.      It  is  a 

strong   form    of    the  or- 

dinary H.  niger.    Rivers- 

toni  is  a  tall,  strong  plant, 

with    large,    quite    pure 

white   flowers   on  appie- 

green  stems.    Apple  Blos- 

som, or  H.  n.  carnea,  has 

X 

dark  stems  and  leaves  and 

flesh-tinted  flowers.  Those 

who  are  interested  in  rais- 

ing    new    forms     should 

cross  -  fertilise    the     best 

flowers  on  a  few  plants, 

and   make   a   sowing    of 

seed  every  year.     When 

the  seed  is  sown,  as  soon 

as  it  is  ripe,  say  in  June, 

the  seedlings  will  appear 

above  ground  during  the 

following  March  or  April. 

The    young  plants  grow 

freely,  and    flower   from 

the  third  to  the  fifth  year 

from  seed.     These  seed- 

ling plants  are  luxuriant, 

and  yield  a  larger  propor- 

tion of   large    and    well- 

shaped  flowers  than,  as  a 

rule,  the  divided  plants. 

These   flowers,   although 

freely  visited  by  bees  and 

flies,   rarely    seed    abun- 

dantly  unless    cross  -fer- 

tilised  with    pollen   from 

other  individual  plants  or 

varieties.     It  is  best  to  get 

pollen  -  bearing     flowers 

from  a  friend's  garden  at 

a  distance,   as    the    late 

"St.  Brigid"  always  used 

to  do. 

The   Lenten   Roses  are  so 

called    because    of   their 

HARDY    PERENNIALS 


565 


NAME. 

COLOUR,  AND 
TIME  OF 
FLOWERING. 

HEIGHT. 
FEET. 

GENERAL  REMARKS. 

Helleborus    niger    (Christ- 

White 

i 

flowering  about  the  time 

mas  Rose 

of    the    Lenten    season, 

though  many  kinds  bloom 

in  January.      This    race 

has  been  secured  by  free 

cross-fertilisation  of  seve- 

ral  species.      There  are 

many      lovely      hybrids, 

some  almost  self,  others 

blotched     and     suffused 

with  colour,  as  rich  and 

effective      as      anything 

painted  upon  the  flower 

of  an  orchid.     Many  of 

the  hybrids  are  named, 

others      seedlings,      and 

amongst      these      occur 

flowers  of  beautiful  and 

diversified  colouring.    H. 

orientalis  is  very  charm- 

ing, a  creamy  white  flower 

touched  with  green  ;  H. 

o.      antiguorum,     Willie 

Barr,  rose-colour  ;  H.  o. 

Commerzienrath  Benary, 

white,  with  spots  of  crim- 

son ;     H.     o.     Gertrude 

Jekyll,   pure  white  ;    H. 
o.  Gretchen  Heinemann, 

rose-  purple  ;    H.   o.    gut- 

tatus,      white  ;      H.      o. 

punctatissimus,  rose-pur- 

ple,  with    rich    spots  of 

colour  ;  and  H,  o.  roseus, 

deep  rose.     The  Lenten 

> 

Roses    are    very    easily 

grown  in  a  fairly  shady 

border,  and  may  be  raised 

from  seed  sown  when  ripe 
out  of  doors.    It  is  needful 

to  watch  the  plants  when 

about    to    flower.     Mice 

have  a  strange  fondness 

for  the  buds.   The  flowers 

when    gathered    for    the 

house  quickly  fade  unless 

the  base   of   the  flower 

stem  is  split  into  four  divi- 

sions for  about  3  inches  up 

the  stem,  or  stalk,  to  use 

a  more  popular  word. 

There     are     many     other 

Hellebores.     H.  fcetidus, 

a  native  species,  is  hand- 

some when  grouped  ;   it 

has  luxuriant  deep  green 

foliage,    and    spikes    of 

greenish  coloured  flowers  ; 

the    association    of    leaf 

and  flower  colour  is  plea 

sant  to  see. 

566 


GARDENING   FOR    BEGINNERS 


NAME. 

COLOUR,  AND 
TIME  OF 
FLOWERING. 

HEIGHT. 
FEET. 

GENERAL  REMARKS. 

Helenium  autumnale.        . 

Yellow  ;  Sum- 

3 

mer        and 

Autumn 

The    Heleniums   are    very 

,,         pumilum    .         . 

Golden  ;  Sum- 
mer       and 

2 

useful,  strong,  vigorous, 
and     free,    with     yellow 
•   flowers.      H.    autumnale 

,,        grandicephalum 
striatum 

Autumn 
Crimson     and 
Gold;  Sum- 
mer       and 

4-6 

is  the  best  known,  and  of 
this  there  is  a  fine  form 
named  grandiflorum. 

Autumn 

, 

'  There  are  many  kinds,  but 

Hemerocallis      (Day-Lily), 
flava 
,,     Thunbergi 

,,     Kwansofl.pl.. 
,,     aurantiaca  major    . 

Rich  Yellow, 
June,  ]uly 
Soft  Yellow, 
July-September 
Bronzy-Orange, 
July,  August 
Golden-Orange, 
July,  August 

4 

2 

3 
3 

these  are  the  most  useful. 
The  flowers  of  the  Day- 
Lily  last  only  about  a  day, 
but  a  succession  is  main- 
•     tained.     They  are  a  suc- 
cess  in   ordinary  soil  in 
shady  places,  and  are  very 
useful  in    small   gardens 
for  filling   places  almost 

entirely  in  the  shade. 

Hesperis    matronalis    albo 

White, 

2 

A    beautiful    old-fashioned 

plena     (Double     White 

Summer 

plant  ;     any    good    soil. 

Rocket) 

Useful  for  wild  garden. 

'Very    bright    flowers    for 

warm    soils,    but    propa- 

gate  by  division  of   the 

Heuchera  sanguinea  . 

Scarlet, 

• 

tufts  after  flowering,  l>e- 

May,  June 

cause  seedlings  vary  con- 

,,    s.  splendens  . 

Vermilion, 

2 

siderably.     Some  of  the 

May,  June 

Heucheras,     H.    glabra, 

and  H.  Richardsoni,  have 

very  highly-coloured  leaveb 

,  in  winter. 

Iberis  cor  reae  folia 

White, 

i 

Very  hardy  and  free. 

May,  June 

Hollyhocks 
Incarvillea  Delavayi  . 

Purplish  Crim- 

2 

See  separate  list  (p.  19  . 
This  is  a  beautiful  hardy 

son  ;     May, 

plant,  little  understood  ; 

June 

it  is  named  after  a  French 

missionary,  the  Abb6  De- 

la  vay,  who  discovered  it 

in  China,  at  an  elevation 

of  between  8000  to  10,000 

feet.       At     first    it    was 

grown   under  glass,   but 

in  rich    friable    loam    it 

has  proved  quite  hardy, 

and  is  easily  raised  from 

seed. 

Irises          .... 

See  separate  list  (p.  19). 

Kniphofia  (Tritoma)  . 

Autumn 

Various 

This  group  is  known  as  the 

(Red-hot  Poker) 

Flame-flower,  because  of 

the  brilliant  colouring  of 

the  scapes.      There   are 

many  noble  kinds,  grandis 

being    one  of   the  most 

kandsome  ;  gracilis  is  an- 

other. These  two,  with  the 

common  Uvaria(aloides), 

HARDY  PERENNIALS 


567 


NAME. 

COLOUR,  AND 
TIME  OF 
FLOWERING. 

HEIGHT. 
FEET. 

GENERAL  REMARKS. 

Kniphofia  (Tritoma)  . 

Autumn 

Various 

will    suffice    in    a    small 

garden.     Deep,   well- 

drained  soil  is  necessary. 

Hard  winters  frequently 

kill  the  plants,  but  danger 

of  this  is  reduced  if  the 

roots  are  put  well  down, 

and  then  a  thick  covering 
of  dry  leaves  put  over  the 

crowns.     Top  dress  with 

well-decayed  manure   in 

spring.       For     increase, 

divide  the  roots  in  March 

or  April. 

Lobelias,  Scarlet  (Lobelia 
cardinalis) 

Scarlet  ; 
Summer 

3,  with 
spike 

There  are  many  charming 
forms  of  the  Scarlet  Lo- 

belia.      Queen    Victoria 

and  Firefly  are  the  two 

most  brilliant,  with  bronzy 

brown  foliage,  too—  a  rich 

contrast.   Plant  in  spring, 

and  in  very  cold  localities 

lift  and  plant  in  a  frame, 

as    they    are    not    very 

hardy.      A  deep  bed  in 

which  is  mixed  well-de- 

cayed  manure  is  neces- 

sary;    they    also    enjoy 

moisture.     For  increase, 

divide  in  spring.      Seed 

may  be  sown  in  January 

and  February  in  shallow 

pans    of  light  soil,  and 

the  seedlings  planted  out 

in  the  following  spring. 

Lunaria  biennis  (Honesty) 

Various  ; 

«i 

Really  a   biennial.       Very 

mostly  Purple 

useful  for  wild  garden. 

/'The    Tree    Lupine    likes 

plenty   of  warmth,   sun- 

shine,  and  a  light  soil. 

Seeds  are  easily  raised, 

Lupinus     arboreus     (Tree 
Lupine) 

Soft  Yellow  ; 
June-August 

4-6 

but  plants  vary  consider- 
ably.   When  a  good  form 

nootkanensis  . 

Dark  Blue  ; 

ii 

J    is  got,   perpetuate   it  by 

May 

cuttings   taken  from   the 

,,       polyphyllus    .1   -^ 
p.  albus          .    —  ." 

Purple  ;  July 
Pure  White  ; 

3 
3 

branch  with  a  little  heel, 
and  put  in  pots  in  a  cold 

June,  July 

frame.     The   others   are 

handsome,  especially  the 

white      polyphyllus      on 

v  banks  and  borders. 

Lychnis  (Campion)  chalce- 
donica  plena     . 
,,      dioica  rubra  plena  . 

Scarlet  ; 
July,  August 
Red-Crimson  ; 

3 

2 

{A   beautiful    family.       L. 
chalcedonica  is  a  hand- 
some border  plant.     All 
the  kinds  like  a  warm  soil 

May,  June 

and  sunny  place. 

568 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


COLOUR,  AND 

NAME. 

TIME  OF 

HKIGHT. 

"PfTTTT 

GENERAL  REMARKS. 

FLOWERING. 

1     1.1-  I  > 

Lychnis  Vespertina  plena  . 
,,    haageana,  in  variety 

Double  White  ; 
July-Sept. 
Vermilion-Scar- 

3 

2 

A    beautiful    family.      L. 
chalcedonica  is  a  hand- 

let;    August, 

•   some  border  plant.     All 

September 

the  kinds  like  a  warm  soil 

,,    Viscaria    splendens 

Red-Crimson  ; 

4 

and  sunny  place. 

plena 
Meconopis  integrifolia 

Tune-August 
Yellow  ; 
May-  June 

i| 

1  Both  need  peaty  soil  and 
>  some  shade  and  both  are 

Wallichii 

Lavender  Blue 

2\ 

)    really  biennials. 

Megaseas  .... 

Spring 

i| 

Handsome     plants,      with 

bold,  thick,  quite  leathery 

leaves,  which,  in  winter, 

take    on    beautiful    rose- 

crimson  and  bronzy-green 

colours.     Succeed  almost 

anywhere.      Make  good 

edgings  or  rough  groups 

in  the  shrubbery  margin 

and  flower  garden. 

Mertensia  sibirica 

Beautiful  Bluish; 

4 

Moist,  peaty  soil. 

Early  Summer 

,,          virginica    . 

Lavender  Blue  ; 

4 

ii              ii 

April-May 

Monarda  (  Bee  Balm  )  di  dyma 

Crimson  -Scar- 

a| 

This  is  known  as  the  Bee 

let;  June-July 

Balm  or    Oswego    Tea  ; 

scarlet      flowers  ;      likes 

moisture,  but  will  do  in 

ordinary  border  ;  flowers 

for  several  weeks.   Leaves 

fragrant  when  crushed. 

Mimulus  (Monkey-flower)  . 

Various  ; 

i 

9 

The  Mimulus  includes  the 

Summer 

Common  Musk,  which  is 

happy  out  of  doors  in  a 

cool  moist  place  like  all 

the   rest   of  the   family. 

M.     cardinalis    and    M. 

cupreus  are  very  bright, 

and  the  hybrids  usually 

grown  in  pots  especially 

so.     The  Musk  and  the 

larger  variety  named  Har- 

rison's are  excellent   for 

Morina  longiflora 

Rose  coloured  ; 
June,  July 

2 

pots. 
A    picturesque    thistle-like 
plant  for  the  border. 

Myosotis  (Forget-me-not)  . 

Blue 

i 

There  are  many  Forget-me- 
nots,  but  the  chief  one 

for  the  small  garden  or 

for  the   beginner   is   M. 

dissitiflora,    which    may 

be  easily  raised  from  seed 

sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  or 

roots    may    be    divided. 

But  it  sows  itself  about 

freely,  and  the  pretty  blue 

colouring  of  the  flowers  is 

welcome. 

HARDY   PERENNIALS 


569 


NAME. 

COLOUR,  AND 
TIME  OF 

HEIGHT. 

TiVtrT 

GENERAL  REMARKS. 

FLOWERING. 

r  EET. 

Montbretias 

Yellow,  Orange  ; 

2-3 

The    Montbretias    are   de- 

Summer, 

lightful  for  warm  borders. 

Autumn 

Although  they  succeed  in 

heavy  soils,  porous,  well- 

drained  ones  are  the  best. 

An  up-to-date  set  of  Mont- 

bretias    should     include 

Star  of  the  East,  orange  ; 

Prometheus,  dark  orange  ; 

Lord     Nelson,     darkest 

orange  ;  and  Lady  Hamil- 

ton, palest  orange.  There 

are     others,     but     those 

named  are  indispensable. 

The  roots  should  be  lifted 

each  autumn  and  treated 

like   Gladioli.      The  fol- 

lowing hybrids  are  very 

beautiful  :     M.     Bouquet 

Parfait,  yellow  and  ver- 

milion ;        Drap      d'Or, 

golden;    Etoile   de   Feu, 

orange-red   and    yellow  ; 

Phare,   crimson  ;    Rayon 

d'Or,   deep  yellow  ;    and 

So  If  at  err  e,      primrose 

' 

colour. 

CEnothera  (Evening  Prim-           Yellow; 

Various 

Any  good  garden  soil. 

rose)                                             Summer 

Omphalodes  verna  (Creep-        Deep  Blue  ; 
ing  Forget-me-not)                     Spring 

1 

A    charming    plant,    with 
beautiful  blue  flowers.    It 

is  at  home  under  shrubs, 

and   likes   a    cool    moist 

j 

soil. 

Pyrethrum 

Various  ;                 2         |  The  Pyrethrums  are    very 

Early  Summer 

useful      border      plants, 

thriving  best  in  deep  soils  ; 
many  kinds,  double  and 

single,     and     in     colour 

varying    from    white    to 

intense  crimson. 

Paeonia  (Paeony) 

See  separate  article  (p.  22). 

• 

for    description    of    the 

•••  -i\.    •   '.''•'•• 

garden  kinds. 

corallina 

Carmine  Single  ; 

3 

This     has     coral  -  coloured 

Summer 

seeds,   which  render  the 

Emodi   .         .  -;•••  v 
,,       paradoxa 

White;  Summer 
Purple  Red  ; 

3 

3 

plant  attractive  in  autumn  . 
A  very  beautiful  species. 
An   attractive   kind  for  its 

Single 

colour. 

peregrina 

Rich  Crimson  ; 

3            Of   this   there  are    several 

Single 

varieties,  such  as  Brilliant 

and  Blushing  Maid. 

teenuifolia 

Rich  Crimson  ; 

2 

This  is  easily  known  by  its 

Single 

feathery  foliage  ;  quite  a 

good  garden  plant  ;   the 
double    form     is    hand- 

some. 

570 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


NAME. 

COLOUR,  AND 
TIME  OF 
FLOWERING. 

HEIGHT. 
FEET. 

GENERAL  REMARKS. 

Paeonia  wittmaniana  . 

Single  ;  Prim- 

3 

Very  handsome.    The 

rose  Yellow 

single   Paeonies  (species) 

such  as  those  enumerated 

are    amongst    the    most 

beautiful  of  garden  plants, 

and     appreciate     partial 

shade.      This,   too,    pro- 

longs the  beauty  of  the 

flowers. 

,  ,      tree  and  herbaceous 

Various  ;  May, 

Various 

See  separate  article  (p.  21). 

June,  July 

Pentstemon  barbatus  Tor- 

Scarlet  ;  June- 

4 

A  very  graceful  and  effec- 

reyi 

August 

tive  plant  for  warm  soils. 

The  garden  Pentstemons 

are  described  in  a  separate 

article  (p.  24). 

Papaver  (Poppy) 

Various 

Various 

See    separate  articles    and 

notes  (p.  28). 

Papaver  orientale  (Eastern 

Crimson,  Scar- 

4 

The  finest  variety  is  bract- 

Poppy) 

let,  and  Orange; 

eatum.      A   noble  group 

May,  June 

of    perennials    for    wild 

places  or  the  larger  bor- 

ders. 

Phlox,  herbaceous      .        . 

Various  ;  June, 

Various 

See  separate  article  (p.  25). 

July,  &  August 

Phygelius  capensis     .     ,.  . 

Scarlet  ; 

3 

This  is  most  at  home  on  a 

Summer 

warm  sunny  border. 

Physalis    (Winter    Cherry) 

A  winter  plant 

2 

The  Physalis  is  grown  for 

Alkekengi 

winter   effect,  and  is  of 

,,        Franchetti    .,       , 

value  for  its  orange-scar- 

let, bladder-like  calyx  en- 

closing a  small  tomato- 

like  fruit.      P.  A.  Fran- 

chetti is  larger  in  all  its 

parts.      These  stems    of 

showy    '  '  bladders  '  '    are 

useful  for  indoor  decora- 

tions.   Warm,  fairly  light 

soils. 

Pinks  

... 

See  separate  article  (p.  27). 

Platycodon  grandiflorum  . 

Bluish  Purple  ; 
Summer 

4 

A  well-drained,  deep,  loamy 
soil.    Good  border  plant. 

Mariesi  is  a  quite  dwarf 

variety,  same  colour  ;  but 

there  is  a    white    form. 

Propagate  by  root  divi- 

sion in  the  spring. 

Plumbago  Larpentoe  (Cera- 

Blue; 

i 

Neat    plant  ;     warm    soil  ; 

tostigma  plumbaginoides 

Autumn 

sunny  place;     good    for 

sunny  rockwork. 

Polemonium       caeruleum 

Blue  ;  also 

'* 

The  Jacob's  Ladders  are  a 

(Jacob's  Ladder) 

White  varieties 

very    pleasing    group  of 

,,          Richardson!    . 

Blue,  and  also 

2 

hardy   plants,    requiring 

White  form 

well-drained   soil,  other- 

, ,          himalaicum    . 

M 

2 

wise  they  will   certainly 

damp  off  in  winter. 

Polygonatum     (Solomon's 
Seal) 

Creamy  White 

2 

P.  multiflorum  is  a  charm- 
ing plant  ;  most  happy  in 

HARDY   PERENNIALS 


571 


NAME. 

COLOUR,  AND 
TIME  OF 
FLOWERING. 

HEIGHT. 
FEET. 

GENERAL  REMARKS. 

Polygonatum      (Solomon's 
Seal) 

Creamy  White 

2 

shade  of  tree,  copse,  or 
by  some  shady  walk.     P. 

officinale     is    a    smaller 

form.    A  moist,  rich  loam 

is  the  best  soil  ;  and  it  is 

advisable  to  top-dress  the 

plants    yearly   with  leaf- 

mould.     Solomon's  Seal 

may  be  increased  by  seed 

in  spring  or  division   in 

autumn  or  spring. 

Polygonums  (Knot  Weeds) 

Creamy  White  ; 
Autumn 

Various 

The  Polygonums  are  better 
adapted  for  quite  rough 

places,  or  to  stand  singly 

on  the  lawn.     P.  cuspi- 

datum    and    its    variety 

conpactum  are  the  most 

common,  but    the  roots 

run  all  over  the  garden. 

P.  sachalinense  is  hand- 

some by  the  waterside  ; 

it  is  8  or  9  or  even  more 

feet  high.      P.   molle  is 

very  beautiful,  almost  a 

climber,  with  white  fleecy 

flowers  in  autumn. 

Primulas  (Primroses,  &c.)  . 
Potentillas. 

Various  ; 

i 

See  separate  article  (p.  29). 
A    race    of    good    garden 

Summer 

flowers  in    light  soil    or 

sunny  places.     There  are 

several  fine  varieties. 

Ranunculus      aconitifolius 

White; 

2 

Cool,    moist    place.      The 

(Fair  Maid  of  France) 
Rockets,  Sweet  . 
Rudbeckia  Newmani 

April,  May 
Gold  and  Black; 

2 

double  kind  is  effective. 
See  separate  article  (p.  31). 
A  free-growing,  good,  border 

,,          purpurea  . 

August-October 
Purple  ; 

6 

plant.     Very  effective. 
Tall,  late,  and  welcome. 

Autumn 

Saponaria  officinalis  fl.  pi. 
(Soapwort) 

Blush  ; 
Autumn 

3 

A   very    strong    and    free- 
growing  plant.     Will  live 
almost  anywhere. 

Saxifragas  (Rock  foils) 

Various 

Various 

Saxifragas  form  a  most  im- 
portant family,  and  com- 

prise a    host  of   species 

and  varieties.     Some  are 

mentioned  in  the  list  of 

rock  plants.      Others   of 

importance  are  S.  Cam- 

posi,    which    blooms    in 

early    spring,    and    has 

large  white  flowers.      S. 

Cotyledon  and  its  variety 

pyramidalis,       especially 
the  last  named,  are  de- 

lightful ;  produce  panicles 

of     white,     pink  -  dotted 

flowers.     S.  granulata  is 

the  native  Meadow  Saxi- 

572 


GARDENING   FOR    BEGINNERS 


I 

NAME. 

COLOUR,  AND 
TIME  OF 
FLOWERING. 

HEIGHT. 
FEET. 

GENERAL  REMARKS. 

Saxifragas  (Rock  foils)       .  ; 

Various 

Various 

frage  ;  its  double  variety 

is    charming.       S.    hyp- 

noides  is  the  Mossy  Saxi- 

frage so   much  used  for 

edgings  ;    will    grow   al- 

most any  where.    S.  longi- 

folia,  with  its  crusted  foli- 

age and  flower  panicles,  ! 

S.  sarmentosa,  "Mother 

of  Thousands  "  of  cottage- 

windows,     the     London 

Pride  (S.  umbrosa),  and 

the  brilliant  early  dwarf, 

S.    oppositifolia  and    its 

forms,  must  also  be  in- 

cluded. 

Scabiosa  caucasica     . 

Blue-Lilac  ; 

4 

\ 

alba     . 

June  -Sep- 
tember 
White 

Tall,  graceful  stems  ;  must 
-  have   well-drained,   light 

,,         magni-       See  coloured 

soil. 

fica                plate 

Sedum  (Stonecrop)    .         .           Various 

Various 

Several  kinds  are  given  in 

the  rock-garden  list.   The 

Stonecrops  are  delightful 

plants  for    edgings.      A 

popular,  tall  kind  (i£  ft.) 

for    gardens,     town"    or 

country,  is  S.  spectabile, 

which  makes  quite  a  little 

bush,  with  rose-coloured 

flower  clusters  in  autumn. 

Will  grow   almost    any- 

where.   S.  s.  atropurpura 

Senecio  japonicus 

Deep  Orange  ; 

5 

is  a  deep-coloured  variety. 
Only  suitable  for  rich,  moist 

Summer 

soils. 

,,       pulcher  . 

Warm  Purple 

4 

Only  in  rich  soils,  and  posi- 

September 

tions  screened  from  keen 

winds. 

Solidago  (Golden  Rod)      . 

Yellow  ; 

Various 

Grow  anywhere  ;  rather  too 

Autumn 

vigorous,  but  effective  in 

Thalictrum  aquilegi  folium 
,  ,              ,  ,    purpureum 

Creamy  ; 
June 
Purple  ; 
Tune 

4 
4 

borders  and  rough  places. 

\  Tall  plants  ;  quite  ball-like 
1    flower  heads  ;  very  grace- 
>•  ful    and    beautiful    with 

,,            dipterocarpum 

Violet  ; 

4-6 

1    their  bold  fern-like  leaves 

August 

J    too. 

Tiarella  cordifolia   (Foam- 

Creamy  ; 

! 

Moist,    cool    soils.       Very 

flower) 

May  and  June 

charming    in    groups   in 

front  of  borders  or  to  form 

Trillium  (Trinity-flower,  or 

Various 

I 

a  kind  of  margin. 
The  most  beautiful  of  this 

White  Wood  Lily) 

group  is  T.  grandiflorum, 

which    has     pure    white 

flowers,  and  is  delightful 

for  a  moist,  shady,  peaty 

GE-FLOWERED  VARIETY  OF  THE  CAUCASIAN  SCABIOUS 
(SCABIOSA  CAUCASICA  MAGNIFICA). 


HARDY    PERENNIALS 


573 


NAME. 


Trillium  (Trinity-flower,  or 
White  Wood  Lily) 


Trollius  (Globe  flower) 


Tropaeolum  polyphyllum 


Tropaeolum  speciosum 
(Flame  Nasturtium) 


COLOUR,  AND 

TIME  OF 
FLOWERING. 


Various 


Various ; 

Spring  and 

Summer 


Yellow  ; 
Summer 


Crimson  ; 
Summer 


Tussilago  fragrans  (Winter 
Heliotrope) 


Verbascum  (Mullein) 
Veronicas  . 


Greyish 
Winter 


Various 
Various 


HEIGHT. 
FEET. 


Various 


Trails 


Trails 


Various 
Various 


GENERAL  REMARKS. 


place  in  the  rock-garden, 
or  at  the  margins  of 
evergreen  or  deciduous 
shrubs.  T.  sessile,  T. 
californicum,  T.  erectum, 
and  one  or  two  others 
are  good  too,  but  none 
approach  grandiflorum. 

The  Trolliuses,  or  Globe 
flowers,  are  charming 
early-flowering  perennials. 
They  like  moisture  and 
rich  soil.  You  cannot  do 
better  than  have  the  rich 
yellow  T.  napellifolius, 
deep  orange  T.  Fortunei 
(japonicus  fl.  pi.), golden- 
coloured  Asiaticus,  and 
a  variety  called  Orange 
Globe. 

A  pretty  trailing  plant ;  not 
always  happy  in  gardens. 
The  leaves  are  greyish ; 
flowers  yellow  in  long 
trails. 

Every  enthusiastic  amateur 
almost  tries  to  establish 
this  Tropseolum,  but  it  is 
fickle.  This  is  the  climber 
that  covers  many  a  High- 
land cottage  with  beauty, 
and  it  enjoys  the  bracing 
mountain  air.  The  best 
soil  is  moist  loam  mixed 
with  some  peat,  and  shade 
is  important.  Put  the 
roots  half  a  foot  deep, 
and  do  not  disturb  them. 

This  is  a  flower  of  winter, 
with  nutty  perfume,  and 
grows  in  ordinary  soils. 
Only  of  value  for  its  per- 
fume and  winter  flower- 
ing. 

Very  useful  bold  plants  for 
the  wild  garden. 

The  Veronicas  are  a  pretty 
family.  V.  subsessilis, 
which  is  about  3  feet 
high,  is  one  of  the  most 
important :  its  flowers  are 
blue.  V.  rupestris  and 
V.  -repens  are  creeping, 
and  form  quite  a  green 
mat,  covered  respectively 
with  blue  and  white 
flowers  in  summer.  V. 
incana  is  welcome  for  its 


574 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


NAME. 

COLOUR,  AND 
TIME  OF 
FLOWERING. 

HEIGHT. 
FEET. 

GENERAL  REMARKS. 

Veronicas  .... 

Various 

Various 

silvery  foliage.     V.   gen- 
tianoides   and   its   varie- 

ties are  suitable  too,  but 

the    best    for    the    ordi- 

nary border  is  subsessilis. 

They  succeed  in  ordinary 

soil. 

Xerophyllum  asphodeloides 
(Turkey  Beard) 

Ivory  White  ; 
Summer 

2 

A  graceful  plant,  with  dense 
spikes  of  bloom  ;   appre- 

ciates   moisture,    shade, 

and    a    peaty    soil.       It 

has    grassy  foliage,   and 

is  not  a  plant  for  every 

garden. 

Zauschneria  californica 
,,                 »         splen- 

Vermilion- 
Scarlet  ; 

i 

The  variety  splendens  is  a 
fine  form  in  warm,  light 

dens 

Early  Autumn 

soil,  and  we  have  known 

this  plant  happy  in   the 

chinks  of  old  walls.    Pro- 

pagate by  root  division 

or  seeds  in  spring. 

ROSES 

BUSH   VARIETIES   FOR    QUITE   A   SMALL   GARDEN 

The  cultivation  of  Roses  is  fully  dealt  with  on  pages  67-95 


NAME. 

COLOUR. 

CLASS. 

STOCK. 

Common  Moss 

Pink  . 

Moss 

Own  Root 

Jessie    

Bright  Crimson 

Polyantha 

Briar  or  Own  Root 

Hugh  Dickson 

Red 

Hybrid  Perpetual 

Mrs.  J.  Laing 

Pink 

M 

Mme.  Abel  Chatenay  . 

Rosy  Salmon 

Hybrid  Tea 

Mme.  Ravary 

Golden  Yellow 

M 

Aime"e  Vibert  (climber)  . 

White 

Noisette 

La  France     .... 

Pink 

Hybrid  Tea 

Caroline  Testout  . 

Deep  Pink 

f  , 

Viscountess  Folkestone 

Blush  White 

rj 

Mme.  Jules  Grolez 

Deep  Rose 

Marie  Van  Houtte 

Pale  Yellow 

Tea 

Gloire  de  Dijon  (for  wall  or  ) 

Cream 

fence)                          ,          J 

1  ' 

W.  A.  Richardson 

Orange  &  White 

Noisette 

rl 

Common  Monthly 

Pale  Pink 

Chinese 

Own  Root 

Mme.  Laurette  de  Messimy  . 

j  Rose  &  other  ) 
t        shades        J 

,, 

,, 

Hon.  Edith  Griffith 

Ivory  White 

Tea 

Briar  or  Own  Root 

Gruss  an  Teplitz  . 

Crimson 

Hybrid  Tea 

" 

ROSES 


575 


ROSES  AS  BUSHES  OR  SHORT  STANDARDS  FOR 
WINDY  PLACES 


NAME. 

COLOUR. 

CLASS. 

STOCK 
(if  as  bushes). 

Charles  Lawson    . 

Rose 

Hybrid  Chinese 

Own  Root 

Mme.  Plantier 

White 

M 

Conrad  F.  Meyer 

Pink 

Hybrid  Rugosa 

Own  Root  or  Manetti 

Chenedole    .... 

Crimson 

Hybrid  Chinese 

Own  Root 

Scotch  Roses 

Various 

Scotch 

' 

Mme.  Hardy 

White 

Damask 

M 

La  Ville  de  Bruxelles    . 

Rosy  Pink 

M 

Maiden's  Blush     . 

Blush 

Alba              Own  Root  or  Manetti 

Blanc  Double  de  Courbet     . 

White 

Rugosa                             ,, 

Mrs.  A.  Waterer  . 

Red 

M 

M 

Rugosa  rosea 

Pink 

M 

M 

alba 

White 

„ 

Blanche  Moreau   . 

M 

Moss 

Gen.  Jacqueminot 

Red 

Hybrid  Perpetual  ! 

Jules  Margottin    . 

Cherry 

M 

>5 

John  Hopper 

Pink 

M 

Magna  Charta 

Deep  Pink     i 

pj 

Caroline  Testout  . 

Rose                Hybrid  Tea 

(J 

Mrs.  J.  Laing 
Ulrich  Brunner     . 

Pink          !  Hybrid  Perpetual 
Red 

" 

Hugh  Dickson 

Crimson                      ,,                                  ,, 

Armosa          .... 

Silvery  Pink 

Bourbon                   Own  Root. 

Common  Monthly 

Pink 

Chinese                            ,, 

Fellenberg    .... 

Light  Red     I         Noisette        J 

Mrs.  Paul     .... 

Blush 

Bourbon         1  Own  Root  or  Manetti 

Cheshunt  Hybrid  . 

Magenta 

Hybrid  Tea 

Own  Root  or  Briar 

Gloire  de  Dijon     . 

Cream                     Tea 

,, 

Camoens       .... 

Deep  Rose 

Hybrid  Tea 

,. 

ROSES  FOR  ARCHES  AND  PERGOLAS 


NAME. 

COLOUR. 

CLASS. 

STOCK. 

Reine  Olga  de  Wurtemburg  . 
Excelsa  

Light  Crimson 
Crimson 

Hybrid  Tea 
Wichuraiana 

Own  Root  or  Briar 

Aimee  Vibert          .         .        . 

White 

Noisette 

Alberic  Barbier      . 

Creamy  White 

Wichuraiana 

American  Pillar     . 

Blush  Pink 

Multiflora 

The  Garland  .... 

Buff 

Hybrid  Musk 

Felicite"  Perpetue    . 

White 

Sempervirens 

Own  Root 

Flora      .         . 

Pink 

t  , 

f  f 

Psyche  

Flesh  Pink 

Multiflora 

Own  Root  or  Briar 

Mme.  Alfred  Carriere    . 

Creamy  White 

Tea 

M 

Blush  Rambler 

(  Apple     Bios-  ) 
(   som  Colour    ) 

Multiflora 

,, 

Ard's  Pillar    .... 

1  Rich  Velvety  i 
\      Crimson      J 

Hybrid  Perpetual 

,, 

Dorothy  Perkins    .         .         . 

Rose,  flowers  late 

Wichuraiana 

Tausendschon 

Blush  Pink 

Multiflora 

Own  Root 

576  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

'HYBRID  TEA  ROSES 

TWENTY-FOUR   FOR   BEDDING 


NAME. 

COLOUR. 

STOCK. 

(  Briar,   Seedling, 

||Antoine  Rivoire  . 

Rosy  Flesh 

•\      or  Cutting,  or 

I      own  Root 

*||Augustine  Guinoisseau 

(  Rosy     White,    very     sweet  ;  ) 
i        flowers  well  in  autumn        j 

,, 

*||Camoens     .... 

(  Glossy  Rose,  most  abundant  ) 
)        and  continuous  bloomer      j 

,, 

*Grace  Darling     . 

(  Cream,  Shaded  Pink,  splendid  ( 
)        grower  and  very  hardy        j 

*Gra.nd  Due  A.  de  Luxem- 

) Clear  Pink,  reverse  of  petals  i 

bourg    .... 

\        Rich  Rose                              j 

*l|General  MacArthur    . 

Scarlet 

*||Madame  Ravary 

Golden  Yellow 

n 

*||Duchess  of  Wellington 

Saffron  Yellow 

M 

*Killarney    .... 

Flesh  Pink,  lovely  buds 

>t 

Liberty       .... 

Very  Crimson,  very  fine 

(1 

*||La  France  .... 

Silvery  Pink,  one  of  the  best 

n 

La  Tosca    .... 

Rose,  very  vigorous 

H 

Lady  Battersea   . 

Crimson  shade 

tl 

*||Mmc.  Abel  Chatenay  . 

|  Carmine,  Shaded   Deep  Sal-  j 
mon,  an  exquisite  variety  V 

(       and  most  fragrant                j 

*||Lady  Ashtown    . 

Pink 

,  , 

*||Mme.  Jules  Grolez 

{  China  Rose  colour,  very  bright  ) 
)                   and  pretty                   ) 

,, 

Mme.  Leon  Pain 

Soft,  Creamy  Pink 

M 

*||Mme.  Pernet-Ducher 

(  Canary  Yellow  buds,  expand-  j 
s        ing  White,  one  of  the  very  v 
(       best  for  a  large  mass 

" 

j'  Briar,  Seedling,  or 

*||Mme.  Segond  Weber  . 

Salmon 

s        Cutting,  or 

(        Own  Root 

*||Mrs.  H.  Stevens 

White 

M 

Pharisaer    .... 

Rosy  White 

I( 

Prince  de  Bulgarie 

(  Soft    Salmon    Rose,    a    very  ) 
\                 pretty  flower 

,, 

Sulphurea   .... 

j  Pale  Yellow,  very  free,  good  ) 
!  (                  garden  rose                  [ 

,, 

*||Viscountess  Folkestone 

\  Creamy  Pink,  Shaded  Salmon,  i 
j        very  free  and  beautiful        [ 

•• 

The  varieties  marked  thus  * 

are  good  also  as  standards,  and  those  marked  ||  are  the 

best  for  pot  culture.     In  addition  to  the  latter,  the  following  are  first-rate  for  the  same 

purpose  : 

NAME. 

COLOUR.                                STOCK. 

{' 

Briar,  Seedling,  or 

Clara  Watson 

Cutting,  or 

Own  Root 

Duchess  of  Albany 

(  Salmon  Pink,  fine,  almost  a  ) 
\       red  La  France,  splendid       [ 

,. 

Gloire  Lyonnaise 

Lemon  White 

,, 

Liberty         .... 

Crimson 

,  , 

Sunburst      .... 

Golden  Yellow 

(I 

Souvenir  de  G.  Prat     . 

Yellow 

M 

Souvenir       du        President 

f   Rosy   Flesh,  Shaded  White,  ) 

Carnot    .... 

\           beautiful  long  buds           j 

>  ' 

Richmond    .... 

Scarlet 

•• 

ROSE    GUSTAVE  REGIS  AS  A  LARGE  BUSH  OR  DWARF  PILLAR. 


UNA    AS  A    PILLAR. 


ROSES 


577 


PILLAR   ROSES   THAT   WILL   GROW   TO   A   HEIGHT   OF 
7   TO    10   FEET 


NAME. 

COLOUR. 

CLASS. 

STOCK. 

American  Pillar     . 

Pink  and  White 

Multiflora 

Own  Root 

Blush  Rambler 

Blush 

Briar  or  Own  Root 

Gloire  de  Dijon 

Cream  and  Buff 

Tea 

• 

Fran9ois  Crousse  . 

Scarlet 

M 

Reine  Marie  Henrietta  . 

Cherry  Red 

Hybrid  Tea 

W.  A.  Richardson 

Orange 

Noisette 

Carmine  Pillar 

Carmine 

Hybrid 

Crimson  Rambler  . 

Crimson 

Multiflora 

Bennett's  Seedling 

White 

Ayrshire 

Reine  Olga  de  Wurtemburg  . 
Mme.  Berard 

Rosy  Red 
Salmon  Rose 

Hybrid  Tea 
Tea 

Aime"e  Vibert 

White 

Noisette 

Longworth  Rambler 

Light  Crimson 

(  t 

Una       
Dorothy  Perkins    . 

Creamy  White 
Pink 

Hybrid  Briar 
Wichuraiana 

The  Penzance  Briars  also  make  splendid  pillars. 
SIX   PILLAR   ROSES   OF   MORE   MODERATE  GROWTH 


NAME. 

COLOUR. 

CLASS. 

STOCK. 

Alister  Stella  Gray 
Climbing  Cramoisie  Supe"rieure 
Gloire  de  Margottin 
Gruss  an  Teplitz    . 
Gustave  Regis 
Zephirine  Drouhin 

Yellowish  White 
Crimson 
Scarlet 

Cream 
Cerise 

Noisette 
China 
Hyb.  Perpetual 
Hybrid  Tea 

Bourbon 

Own  Root  or  Briar 

CLIMBING  ROSES  FOR  GREENHOUSE  ROOF  OR  PILLARS 


NAME. 

COLOUR. 

STOCK. 

Bouquet  d'Or 

Rich  Coppery  Yellow 

(   Briar,  Seedling,  or 
\            Cutting 

Celine  Forestier  . 

Primrose 

tt 

Cheshunt  Hybrid 

{Magenta    Crimson,     a     bad"| 
colour  outdoors,  but  attrac-  V 
live  under  glass                     j 

\    •»,  * 

Climbing  Belle  Siebrecht     . 
Climbing  KaiserinA.  Victoria 
Climbing  Lady  Ashtown 

Imperial  Pink,  grand 
Creamy  White 
Pink 

•• 

Climbing  Niphetos 

Pure  White 

,, 

Climbing  Perle  des  Jardins  . 

Golden  Yellow 

,, 

Fortune's  Yellow  . 

Orange,  Rose,  and  many  tints 

,, 

Fran9ois  Crousse 

Scarlet 

,  , 

Gloire  de  Dijon    . 

Salmon  Yellow 

,, 

Gustave  Regis 

Canary  Yellow 

,, 

L'Ideal         .... 

(  Coppery  Rose,  very  beautiful  ) 
\                       tints                       ) 

M 

Madame  Berard  . 

Salmon  Rose 

,, 

Marshal  Niel      . 

(  Golden  Yellow.     The  king  of  ) 
\                      Roses                       f 

,, 

Monsieur  Desir    . 

Velvety  Crimson,  fine 

,, 

Reine  Marie  Henriette 

(  Pale  Crimson,  known  as  the  ) 
\           red  Gloire  de  Dijon           ) 

M 

Reve  d'Or    .... 

Coppery  Yellow  buds 

,, 

Solfaterre     .... 

Sulphur  Yellow 

,, 

W.  A.  Richardson 

Orange  Yellow 

" 

2   O 


578 


GARDENING   FOR  BEGINNERS 


SO-CALLED   CLIMBING   ROSES  GROWN  AS  LARGE  BUSHES 

Where  walls,  fences,  &c.,  are  limited,  many  of  the  splendid  vigorous  Teas  and 
Noisettes  may  be  successfully  grown  in  bush  or  shrub  form.  Plant  them  in  October,  3  or 
4  feet  or  more  apart,  and  in  March  shorten  the  growths  to  2  feet.  Each  season  the  annual 
growths  must  be  thus  cut  back,  and  some  of  the  very  old  wood  entirely  removed. 


NAME. 

COLOUR. 

STOCK. 

Bouquet  d'Or 

Apricot 

Briar 

Belle  Lyonnaise 

Pale  Yellow 

,, 

Conrad  F.  Meyer 

Rose,  very  sweet 

,, 

Gloire  de  Dijon 

Cream 

,, 

Gruss  an  Teplitz 

Scarlet 

Own  Root 

Lady  Waterlow 

Pink  and  Cream 

Briar 

Madame  Chauvry 

Apricot 

,, 

Berard 

Salmon  Rose 

(( 

Mons.  Desir  . 
Pink  Rover     . 

Velvety  Crimson  &  Purple 
Pink,  very  sweet 

•• 

Waltham  Climber 

Crimson 

M 

W.  A.  Richardson 

Orange 

•• 

HYBRID  PERPETUAL  ROSES  FOR  POTS 


VARIETY. 

COLOUR. 

STOCK. 

Captain  Hayward 
Duke  of  Wellington 

Crimson  Carmine 
Scarlet  Crimson 

Briar  or  Own  Root 

Frau  Karl  Druschki 

White 

ti 

General  Jacqueminot 

Scarlet  Crimson 

M 

Hugh  Dickson 

Scarlet 

it 

Mile.  G.  Luizet     . 

Silvery  Pink 

M 

Magna  Charta 

Rose 

Jt 

Marie  Baumann    . 

Red 

M 

Merveille  de  Lyon 

White 

M 

Mrs.  G.  Dickson   . 

Pink 

(l 

Mrs.  J.  Laing 

Rosy  Pink 

M 

Mrs.  S.  Crawford  . 

9  > 

p 

Pride  of  Waltham 

Salmon  Pink 

( 

Prince  Arthur 

Rich  Red 

( 

Spenser 

Blush  Pink 

( 

Ulrich  Brunner     . 

Cherry  Red 

|t 

Victor  Verdier 

Rose 

§| 

Violette  Bouyer     . 

White,  Shaded  Pink 

" 

SINGLE  AND  SEMI-DOUBLE  ROSES 

Most  of  these  should  receive  no  pruning  beyond  thinning  out  the  old  worn-out  wood 
in  autumn. 

SOME  SINGLE  AND   SEMI-DOUBLE  ROSES 


NAME. 

COLOUR. 

STOCK. 

Altaica         ... 

White;  large 

Own  Root 

Andersoni    . 

Pink 

Manetti 

Austrian  Copper 
Yellow 

Copper 
Yellow 

" 

Bardou  Job  . 

Crimson  and  Black 

Briar 

*Carmine  Pillar           ;  .'    ' 

Carmine 

Own  Root 

Hebe's  Lip 

White,  edged  Red 

Briar 

*  Hiawatha    . 

Scarlet 

Hugonis 

Yellow 

Irish  Elegance 

Apricot  and  Pink 

" 

Those  marked  thus  *  are  Ramblers ;  the  others  are  Bushes  or  Pillars. 


ROSES 


579 


NAME. 

COLOUR. 

STOCK. 

Lady  Penzance    .... 
*Leuchtstern          .... 

(  Coppery  Yellow  ;  Sweet  \ 
\            Briar  foliage           / 
Pink  ;  large  White  Eye 

Briar 
Own  Root 

Macrantha  ..... 

Blush  ;  large 

,, 

Meg  Merrilies      .... 

(  Crimson  ;    Sweet    Briar  ) 
t                 foliage                 f 

,. 

Moschata  alba     .... 

White 

M 

*Polyantha  grandiflora 
Rugosa        . 

Large  White 
Pink  ;  fine  seed-pods 

" 

alba        .... 

Pure  White;  fine  seed-pods 

,, 

sinica  Anemone   .... 

Pink 

" 

Those  marked  thus  *  are  Ramblers  ;  the  others  are  Bushes  or  Pillars. 
The  following  are  beautiful  as  standards  or  for  steep  rough  banks.     Very  strong. 


NAME. 


Wichuraiana . 


*Alberic  Barbier 

*Auguste  Barbier 
*  Jersey  Beauty  . 
*Paul  Transon  . 
*Rene"  Andre"      . 

Repens  alba     . 


COLOUR. 


STOCK. 


White  ;  creeps  like  ivy 

I"  Cream,    deepening     to 

<      Yellow ;  semi-double 

(     dark  leaves 

Rose  Lilac ;  semi-double 

White ;  buds  yellow 

Rose ;  double 

Saffron  Yellow 

(  White  ;   very  beautiful,  ) 

I  \  makesexcellentstandard  J 


Own  Root 


*  These  are  hybrids. 


DWARF   GROWING  TEA  ROSES   FOR   THE   GARDEN 


VARIETY. 

COLOUR. 

STOCK. 

*Anna  Olivier        .        ..,.., 

Salmon  Rose 

(  Seedling,  Briar,  or 
I        Own  Root 

Comtesse  F.  Hamilton 

Reddish  Apricot 

M 

Dr.  Grill      

Coppery  Yellow 

1  t 

Francisca  Kruger 

1  1 

.  ( 

Francis  Dubrieul 

Crimson 

(l 

*G.  Nabonnand    .... 

Rose 

f  ( 

*Hon.  E.  Gifford  .... 

Flesh  White 

M 

Jean  Pernet         .        .        .       •>  , 

Bright  Yellow 

~tl 

*Lady  Roberts      .        .        ,;;::'' 

Apricot 

M 

*Mme.  Antoine  Mari    . 

Rose  and  White 

M 

Mme.  Falcot       .        . 

Apricot 

*Mme.  Hoste        .        .       '.       '.' 

Clear  Yellow 

,, 

*Mme.  Lambard  .        .        .     .  v 

Salmon  Pink 

J( 

Maman  Cochet   .        .       -*i^':  •!. 

Flesh  Pink 

f  , 

*Marie  Van  Houtte 

Yellow  and  White 

M 

Mrs.  H.  Stevens 

White 

t> 

Mrs.  R.  Smith     .... 

Blush 

Souvenir  de  C.  Gaillot 

Golden  Red 

(i 

*Souvenir  de  S.  A.  Prince     . 

Pure  White 

t. 

Souvenir  d'un  Ami      .        .        .  ; 

Salmon  Rose 

it 

*Sulphurea   

Pale  Yellow,  very  free 

White  Maman  Cochet 

White,  Tinted  Blush 

" 

Those  marked  thus  *  are  especially  good  for  bedding. 


580 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


STRONG   GROWING   TEA,   HYBRID   TEA,   AND 
NOISETTE   ROSES 

To  grow  as  large  bushes  or  for  pegging  down. 


VARIETY. 

COLOUR. 

STOCK. 

Belle  Lyonnaise  .... 
Billiard  et  Barre  .... 
Bouquet  d'Or  .... 
Celine  Forestier  .... 
Corallina  
Crepuscule  
Dr.  Rouges  .... 

Yellow 
Deep  Yellow 
Deep  Coppery  Yellow 
Primrose 
Bright  Rose-Crimson 
Orange 
Reddish  Bronze 

Briar  or  Own  Root 

Gloire  de  Dijon     . 
Gustave  Regis       .... 
Kaiserin  Friedrich 
Lady  Waterlow    .... 
L'Ideal          
Mme.  Berard        .... 
Mme.  Jules  Siegfried    . 
Mme.  Moreau       .... 
Mme.  P.  Cochet   .... 
Mme.  Wagram     .... 
W.  A.  Richardson 

Salmon  Yellow 
Yellow-Cream 
Yellow,  Shaded  Pink 
Pink  and  Cream 
Metallic  Red 
Fawn-Yellow 
Cream 
Coppery  Yellow 
Orange 
Satin  Rose 
Orange 

It  will  be  noticed  that  the  majority  of  sorts  in  this  list  are  of  yellow  colours,  but  all  are 
distinct.  They  are  the  best  varieties  to  grow  in  order  to  provide  a  good  supply  of  yellow 
Roses.  Although  often  planted  against  walls,  they  will  succeed  admirably  as  bushes  by 
leaving  their  growths  about  2  feet  long  when  pruning,  and  bending  over  the  longer 
shoots  as  devised  in  pegging  down. 


TWENTY   TEA  ROSES   FOR   POT   CULTURE 


VARIETY. 

COLOUR. 

STOCK. 

Anna  Olivier 

Salmon  Rose 

Briar  or  Own  Root 

Bridesmaid   . 

Bright  Pink 

Catherine  Mermet 

Flesh 

Etoile  de  Lyon 

Clear  Yellow 

Hon.  E.  Gifford    . 

Flesh  White 

Lady  Hillingdon  . 

. 

Golden 

Lady  Roberts 

Apricot 

Mme.  de  Watteville 

White,  edged  Rose 

Mme.  Hoste 

Clear  Yellow 

Mme.  Lambard    . 

Salmon  Pink 

Maman  Cochet     . 

Flesh  Pink 

Marie  Van  Houtte 

Yellowish  White 

Mrs.  Foley  Hobbs 

White  and  Blush 

Mrs.  H.  Stevens    . 

White 

Niphetos 

, 

Snow  White 

Perle  des  Jardins  . 

Yellow 

Souvenir  d'un  Ami 

. 

Rose 

Sunrise  . 

. 

Apricot,  Shaded  Carmine 

Sunset  . 

. 

Apricot 

The  Bride     . 

• 

White 

ROSES 


581 


TWENTY-FOUR   HYBRID   PERPETUAL   ROSES  AS 
BUSHES   OR   STANDARDS 


VARIETY. 

COLOUR. 

STOCK  FOR  DWARFS. 

A.  K.  Williams  .... 

Rich  Red 

Briar 

*  Alfred  Colomb    .         .         . 

Light  Red 

{Briar,  Manetti,  or 
Own  Root 

Beauty  of  Waltham     . 

Cherry  Red 

*Captain  Hayward 

Crimson  Carmine 

Charles  Lefebvre 

Velvety  Crimson 

*Clio      

Pale  Flesh 

*Commandant  Felix  Faure  . 

Scarlet 

Comte  Raimband 

Clear  Crimson 

" 

*Dr.  Andry    
Duke  of  Edinburgh     .         .         . 

Bright  Crimson 
Scarlet  Crimson 

*Dupuy  Jamain     .... 

Cerise 

n 

Eugene  Furst      .... 
*Fisher  Holmss     .... 

Velvety  Crimson 
Crimson  Scarlet 

" 

Frau  Karl  Druschki    . 

White 

*General  Jacqueminot  . 

Scarlet  Crimson 

Briar  or  Own  Root 

Geoffrey  Henslow 

Dark  Crimson 

Gloire  de  Ched.  Guinoisseau 

Crimson 

*Jeannie  Dickson  .... 

Silvery  Rose 

{Briar,  Manetti,  or 
Own  Root 

*John  Hopper       ...        % 

Rose 

Mme.  G.  Luizet  .... 

Silvery  Pink 

*Mrs.  John  Laing 

Rosy  Pink 

*Mrs.  Sharman  Crawford 

Prince  C.  de  Rohan     . 

Crimson  Maroon 

*Ulrich'Brunner   .... 

Cherry  Red 

•> 

Those  marked  *  are  good  for  bedding. 


ROSES   FOR   SMOKY   DISTRICTS,   OPEN   SPACES   NEAR 
LARGE  TOWNS,  OR  WHERE  SOIL   IS  VERY  POOR 

Those  marked  thus  *  would  be  especially  good  sorts  to  plant  in  gardens  near  the  sea, 
and  the  bushes  should  be  upon  their  own  roots.  Those  marked  thus  **  are  Rambling 
Roses.  Dig  the  ground  deeply  before  planting  ;  incorporate  some  manure  at  same  time. 
If  the  texture  is  heavy,  add  grit,  road  scrapings,  and  at  all  times  burnt  garden  refuse  is 
very  valuable  to  mix  in.  If  the  soil  be  light  and  sandy,  give  preference  to  the  Teas, 
Hybrid  Teas,  and  Chinese,  and  work  in  some  clayey  soil  if  procurable,  failing  that  a  good 
dressing  of  cow  manure  is  very  helpful,  especially  if  a  good  layer  is  put  underneath  at  a 
depth  of  about  2  feet. 


NAME. 

COLOUR. 

CLASS. 

STOCK. 

**Aglaia     . 
**Aimee  Vibert*         .    -,.>' 
Armosa*  .         .        . 
Baron  de  Wassanaer 
Beaute  de  Lyon 

Yellow 
White 
Rosy  Pink 
Red 
Terra  Cotta 

Polyantha 
Noisette 
Bourbon 
Moss 
Pernetiana 

Own  Root  or  Briar 
Own  Root 

GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


NAME. 

COLOUR. 

CLASS. 

STOCK. 

Blairii  No.  2   . 

Blush  Pink 

Hybrid  Chinese 

Own  Root 

Blanc  Double  deCourbet* 

White 

Rugosa 

Own  Root  or  Briar 

Camoens 

Rose 

Hybrid  Tea 

M 

**Carmine  Pillar*  (single)  . 
Caroline  Testout*  . 

Carmine 
Rich  Pink 

Hybrid 
Hybrid  Tea 

Own  Root  or  Manetti 
Own  Root  or  Briar 

Celestial* 

Blush  Pink 

Alba 

Own  Root  or  Manetti 

Charles  Lawson*    . 

Rose 

Hybrid  Chinese 

Own  Root 

Chenedole 

Crimson 

(| 

Cheshunt  Hybrid*  . 

Magenta 

Hybrid  Tea 

Own  Root  or  Briar 

Clio         .... 

Blush 

Hybrid  Perpetual 

M 

Clothilde  Soupert   . 

Peach  &  White 

Polyantha 

Common  China*     . 

Pink 

Chinese 

Own  Root 

Common  Moss* 

' 

Moss 

M 

Conrad  F.  Meyer*  .         . 

Hybrid  Rugosa 

)( 

**Crimson  Rambler*  . 

Crimson 

Polyantha 

Own  Root  or  Briar 

Dupuy  J  amain 

Cerise 

Hybrid  Perpetual 

,( 

Enchantress*  . 

Creamy  Buff 

Tea 

ii 

**Fe"licit£  Perpetue     . 

White 

Ayrshire 

Own  Root 

Fellenberg       . 

Red 

Noisette 

Own  Root  or  Briar 

**Flora       .... 

Pink 

Evergreen 

Own  Root 

Gen.  Jacqueminot*. 

Red 

Hybrid  Perpetual 

Own  Root  or  Briar 

**Gloire  de  Dijon*     . 

Cream 

Tea 

M 

Gloire  des  Polyantha*    . 

Deep  Pink 

Polyantha 

' 

Grace  Darling* 

Peach  &  Yellow 

Hybrid  Tea 

M 

**Grandiflora*  (single) 

White 

Polyantha 

Own  Root 

Gruss  an  Teplitz     . 
Harrisonii 

Scarlet 
Yellow 

Hybrid  Tea 
Australian  Briar 

Own  Root  or  Briar 
Own  Root 

Hybrid  Sweet  Briars*     . 

Various 

Sweet  Briar 

M 

John  Hopper  . 

Rose  Pink 

Hybrid  Perpetual 

Own  Root  or  Briar 

Jules  Margottin* 

Cherry 

M 

Own  Root 

Juliet*     .... 

(  Carmine  and  ) 
\     Old  Gold     j 

Pernetiana 

,, 

La  France*     . 

Pink 

Hybrid  Tea 

Own  Root  or  Briar 

La  Ville  de  Bruxelles*    . 

Rose 

Damask 

Own  Root 

**Mme.  Alf.  Carriere* 

Creamy  &  White 

Tea 

Own  Root  or  Briar 

Mme.  Hardy  . 

White 

Damask 

Own  Root 

Mme.  Lambard*    . 

Pink  &  Red 

Tea 

Own  Root  or  Briar 

Mme.  Plantier 

White 

Hybrid  Chinese 

Own  Root 

Mme.  Wagram* 

Carnation  Pink 

Hybrid  Tea 

Own  Root  or  Briar 

Magna  Charta* 

Deep  Pink 

Hybrid  Perpetual 

,, 

Maharajah 

Crimson 

,, 

,, 

Maman  Cochet 

Rosy  Pink 

Tea 

,, 

Marie  Van  Houtte* 

Pale  Yellow 

(  t 

M 

Mrs.  A.  Waterer     . 

Red 

Rugosa 

M 

Mrs.  J.  Laing 

Pink 

Hybrid  Perpetual 

M 

Nova  Zembla* 

White 

Hybrid  Rugosa 

M 

Paul  Ricant    . 

Red              Hybrid  Chinese 

Own  Root 

**Reine  Olga  de  Wurtem- 

burg     .... 

Crimson              Hybrid  Tea 

Own  Root  or  Briar 

Rose  a  parfum  de  1'Hay* 

Red             1  Hybrid  Rugosa 

,, 

Ruga       .... 

Blush 

Ayrshire 

Own  Root 

Rugosa  rosea  . 

Rosy  Pink 

Rugosa 

Own  Root  or  Briar 

Souvenir  de  Malmaison  . 

Blush  White 

Bourbon 

M 

Stanwell  Perpetual* 

Blush 

Perpetual  Scotch 

Briar 

**The  Garland  . 

Fawn 

Hybrid  Musk 

Own  Root 

Ulrich  Brunner*     . 
Viscountess  Folkestone*. 

Red 
Pink  &  Cream 

Hybrid  Perpetual 
Hybrid  Tea 

Own  Root  or  Briar 

**Waltham  Climber,  No.  i* 

Crimson 

Tea 

" 

ROSES 

ROSES  AS   LARGE   BUSHES 


583 


Roses  that  form  themselves  into  huge  bushes  have  their  advocates  nowadays.  We 
do  not  advise  amateurs  to  grow  them  unless  they  have  abundance  of  space.  Such  plants 
are  best  given  a  support  in  the  form  of  a  centre  stake.  Allow  them  to  grow  at  random, 
merely  removing  dead  or  very  old  growths.  The  following  varieties  are  excellent : 


NAME. 

COLOUR. 

CLASS. 

STOCK. 

Blairii  No.  2       ... 

Blush  Pink 

Hybrid  Chinese 

Own  Root 

Blanc  Double  de  Courbet  . 

White 

Rugosa 

Own  Root  or  Briar 

Climbing  Souv.  deWootton 

Rosy  Red 

Hybrid  Tea 

Conrad  F.  Meyer 

(  Very     early,  ) 
(     Rose,  fine     J 

,, 

,,   ' 

De  la  Grifferaie  . 

Rosy  Pink 

Multiflora 

Own  Root 

Dawn          .... 

Blush 

Hybrid  Tea 

Own  Root  or  Briar 

Dawson  Rose     .         '. 

Pink 

Multiflora 

M 

Fe'licite'-et-Perpe'tue    . 

White 

Evergreen 

Own  Root 

Fellenberg.        .        .        . 

Rosy  Red 

Noisette 

M 

Flora  

Pink 

Evergreen 

M 

Gloire  de  Dijon  . 

Cream 

Tla 

Own  Root  or  Briar 

Gruss  an  Teplitz 

Scarlet 

Hybrid  Tea 

M 

Juliet  

(  Carmine  and  ) 
t     Old  Gold     f 

Pernetiana 

.. 

Longworth  Rambler  . 

Cherry  Red 

Hybrid  Tea 

tt 

Macrantha. 

Blush 

Gallica 

M 

Mme.  Alfred  Carriere 

White  &  Cream 

Tea 

Mme.  Plantier    . 

White 

Hybrid  Chinese 

|f 

Magna  Charta    . 
Maiden's  Blush  . 

Deep  Pink 
Blush 

Hybrid  Perpetual 
Alba 

Own  Root 

Paul's  Single  White   . 

White 

Noisette 

Polyantha  Simplex     . 

M 

Multiflora 

f 

Reine  Olga  de  Wurtemburg 

Crimson 

Hybrid  Tea 

Own  Root  or  Briar 

Rugosa  rosea 

Rose 

Rugosa 

„ 

Souvenir  de  Mme.  Joseph 

Metral  .... 

Cerise 

Tea 

M 

Ulrich  Brunner  .    -r  .    -.'.  :»-. 

Red 

Hybrid  Perpetual 

t 

Waltham  Climber  No.  i    . 

Crimson 

Tea 

» 

A   FEW   OF   THE   BEST   SPECIES   OF   ROSE 
On  own  roots  where  possible  to  procure  them. 


NAME. 

COLOUR. 

HABIT. 

R.  alba          

Blush 

Bush 

,,   alpina      

Purple  ;  lovely  heps 

,i 

,  ,    canina  (this  is  the  dog  rose  of  ) 
our  hedgerows)     .        .----^f 

Various 

., 

,  ,    ferruginea  or  rubrifolia    . 

Pink 

(Bush,  mostly  grown 
for  its  lovely  red 
foliage 

,,   hispida    

Yellow 

Bush 

,,   hugonis  ..... 

,,    indica       

{Pink.     This  is  the  type^j 
from  which  Tea  Roses  > 
have  sprung                   ) 

1  » 

GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


NAME. 

COLOUR. 

HABIT. 

R   laevigata  or  Cherokee  Rose 

White 

Wall  Climber 

lucida  and  double  variety 

Bright  Red 

Bush 

lutea        .... 

Yellow 

moschata  alba 

White  and  Pink 

Moyseii    . 

Brown  and  Crimson 

multiflora 

White 

rugosa 

Rose 

setigera,  Prairie  Rose 

Pink,  late  flowering 

spinosissima,  the  single  Scotch  1 
Rose                                         / 

Various 

.. 

,,    wichuraiana.  Many  lovely  hy-^ 
brids  are  now  being  raised  > 
from  this  species  .         .         j 

White 

(  Creeping  on    the 
I      ground  like  ivy 

BUTTON-HOLE  ROSES   FOR   OUTDOOR   CULTURE 

Only  such  varieties  as  produce  neat  flowers  are  mentioned.  Common  Moss,  Blanche 
Moreau,  A.  K.  Williams,  Gloire  Lyonnaise,  Alfred  Colomb,  Victor  Hugo,  Souvenir  de 
Malmaison,  Bouquet  d'Or,  W.  A.  Richardson,  L'Ideal,  Gustave  Regis,  Mme.  Berard, 
Mme.  Moreau,  Anna  Olivier,  Catherine  Mermet,  Francis  Dubrieul,  Mme.  C.  Guinoisseau, 
Mme.  Falcot,  Mme.  Hoste,  Mme.  P.  Perny,  Marie  Van  Houtte,  Mrs.  Alfred  Tate,  Papa 
Gontier,  Corallina,  Souvenir  de  C.  Guillot,  Sunrise,  Killarney,  Mme.  Abel  Chatenay, 
Souvenir  du  President  Carnot,  Mrs.  H.  Stevens,  Carino,  Florence  H.  Veitch. 


ROSES   CLASSED  ACCORDING  TO   COLOUR 

Roses  vary  so  much  in  colour  that  classification  is  difficult.  Where  space  allows,  it 
is  always  advisable  to  plant  a  bed  or  group  of  one  sort.  For  instance,  if  a  mass  of  rich 
pink  were  required,  far  better  to  plant  a  Rose  like  Caroline  Testout  than  several  varieties 
approaching  it  in  colour.  But  as  this  work  is  for  the  beginner,  we  have  given  the  names 
of  a  few  of  the  best  varieties  of  their  colour.  Those  marked  **  are  very  vigorous,  and 
best  as  large  bushes  or  in  clusters  in  beds.  Others  marked  thus  *  are  vigorous. 


NAME. 

CLASS. 

STOCK. 

Pure  White  — 

Niphetos    "I 

Tea 

Briar  or  Own  Root 

*Blanc  Double  de  Courbet   . 

Rugosa 

Frau  Karl  Druschki  .         .         .      *;V. 
Souvenir  de  S.  A.  Prince    .         .        . 

Hybrid  Perpetual 
Tea 

" 

Anna  Marie  de  Montravel  .             '    . 

Polyantha 

|( 

Molly  S.  Crawford      . 

Tea 

Mrs.  H.  Stevens          .... 

r( 

>( 

British  Queen 

Hybrid  Tea 

M 

White-tinted  Blush  or  Lemon— 

The  Bride  

Tea 

Briar  or  Own  Root 

Mme.  Leon  Pain 

Hybrid  Tea 

,  p 

*Margaret  Dickson      .        .        .        .-.. 

j 

(  ( 

*White  Maman  Cochet        .      ,;*     •  . 

Tea 

" 

ROSES 


585 


NAME. 

CLASS. 

STOCK. 

White-tinted  Blush  or  Lemon  — 

*Clio    
Sulphurea  

Hybrid  Perpetual 
Tea 

Briar  or  Own  Root 

Hon.  E.  Clifford         .... 

Augustine  Guinoisseau 
*Gloire  Lyonnaise        .... 

Hybrid  Tea 

'• 

Souvenir  de  la  Malmaison  . 

Bourbon 

Pharisaer    

Hybrid  Tea 

M 

Peace          

Tea 

Antoine  Rivoire           .... 

Hybrid  Tea 

" 

Prince  de  Bulgarie     .         .         .         . 

f  f 

M 

Creamy  White  or  Buff  — 

Enchantress        

Tea 

Briar  or  Own  Root 

Anna  Ohvier       ..... 

( 

(i 

**Gloire  de  Dijon  ..... 

M 

Mrs.  A.  Munt     ....'. 

Hybrid  Tea 

(j 

Flesh  Pink— 

Captain  Christy          .... 

Hybrid  lea 

Briar  or  Own  Root 

*Clara  Watson     

*G.  Nabonnand   

Tea 

La  Tosca    

Hybrid  Tea 

Pale  Pink— 

Baroness  Rothschild  .... 

Hybrid  Perpetual 

Briar  or  Own  Root 

*Mme.  G.  Luizet          .... 

(f 

La  France  

Hybrid  Tea 

() 

Maman  Cochet  j(        .        .        . 

Tea 

t) 

Killarney    .         .«        . 

Hybrid  Tea 

t 

*Grace  Darling     .[        . 

J( 

*Mrs.  J.  Laing     .         .        .,, 

Hybrid  Perpetual 

( 

Mme.  Segond  Weber 

Hybrid  Tea 

, 

Rosy  Pink  — 

Mile.  Marie  Finger     .... 
^Caroline  Testout         .... 

Hybrid  Perpetual 
Hybrid  Tea 

Briar  or  Own  Root 

Mrs.  Sharman  Crawford    . 

Hybrid  Perpetual 

1  1 

Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant       .... 

Hybrid  Tea 

i 

Bridesmaid                                   % 

Tea 

( 

*Mme.  Lambard  

M 

p 

*Mme.  A.  Chatenay     .        k--       . 

Hybrid  Tea 

! 

Mrs.  A.  Tate      .         .         .         .         . 

Lady  A.  Stanley         .... 

,, 

'J, 

Rose— 

*Jeannie  Dickson         .... 
Marquise  de  Castellane 

Hybrid  Perpetual 

Briar  or  Own  Root 

Suzanne  M.  Rodocanachi  . 

M 

Camoens    

Hybrid  Tea 

M 

Mme.  J.  Grolez  

f  , 

M 

*Mme.  Laurette  Messimy    . 

China 

t  , 

Mrs.  W.  Christie  Miller     . 

Hybrid  Perpetual 

j( 

Rose  Queen        

Hybrid  Tea 

,, 

Cerise— 

Helen  Keller      .        .  ^_.        .  i-^_^ 

Hybrid  Perpetual 

Briar  or  Own  Root 

*DupuyJamain    .         .         ,        .  ::      . 

,, 

,, 

Light  Red— 

*Ulrich  Brunner  

Hybrid  Perpetual 

Briar  or  Own  Root 

Alfred  Colomb   

t 

M 

Lady  Battersea  .         .         .         . 

Hybrid  Tea 

,( 

Carmine  Rose  — 

Marquise  Litta  .         .         .         .    •     . 
*Mme.  Isaac  Periere    .... 

Hybrid  Tea 
Hybrid  Briar 

Briar  or  Own  Root 

Marie  d'  Orleans          .... 

Tea 

" 

586 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


NAME. 

CLASS. 

STOCK. 

Light  Crimson  — 

*Mme.  V.  Verdier        .... 

Hybrid  Perpetual 

Briar  or  Own  Root 

A.  K.  Williams  

(1 

George  C.  Waud        .... 

Hybrid  tea 

tj 

Jessie  

Polyantha 

tt 

Papa  Gontier      

Tea 

)( 

^General  McArthur      .... 

Hybrid  Tea 

f  , 

Approaching  Scarlet— 
*Duke  of  Edinburgh    .... 

Hybrid  Perpetual 

Briar  or  Own  Root 

*Gloire  de  Margottin   .... 

w 

,, 

*Captain  Hayward       .        .        . 

,, 

**Gruss  an  Teplitz 
Cramoisie  Supe'rieure 

Hybrid  Tea 
China 

" 

Mrs.  E.  Powell  

Hybrid  Tea 

,, 

Richmond  

M 

Scarlet  Crimson  — 

Liberty       .        .        .        .       v 

Hybrid  Tea 

Briar  or  Own  Root 

Fisher  Holmes    .        .        .        .        . 
*General  Jacqueminot  .        .        .        , 

Hybrid  Perpetual 

'. 

Lieut.  Chaure     ..... 

Hybrid  Tea 

M 

Marquise  de  Salisbury 

• 

Princesse  de  Sagan     .... 
Velvety  Crimson  — 

Tea 

" 

*Charles  Lefebvre        .        . 

Hybrid  Perpetual 

Briar  or  Own  Root 

Victor  Hugo      

M 

,, 

*Eugene  Furst     .        .        .        .        . 

1  1 

M 

Louis  Van  Houtte      .        .        .        . 

M 

tt 

Maroon  and  nearly  Black  — 

*Prince  de  C.  Rohan   .        .     i  •:.  '•<'-.  5. 

M 

ti 

Chateau  de  Clos  Vougeot  .  t»!  V 

Hybrid  Tea 

,t 

Violet  or  Purple  — 

Sir  R.  Hill          .         .         .        V 

Hybrid  Perpetual 

Briar  or  Own  Root 

Jean  Cherpin      .        ..       ,: 

(  t 

,  , 

Pale  Yellow  and  Cream  — 

*Marie  Van  Houtte     .  >      'J.      .  :     . 

Tea 

Briar  or  Own  Root 

Mme.  Hoste       

tt 

*Mme.  Pernet  Ducher 

Hybrid  Tea 

M 

**Belle  Lyonnaise          .»  -  :  ,'.   .  '  ,        . 

Tea 

tl 

Souvenir  de  G.  Prat  .         .        . 

Hybrid  Tea 

it 

*Kaiserin  Aug.  Victoria 

kl 

,  , 

Lemon  Yellow  — 

**Celine  Forestier  .        *     ;  «  f  "  t  '  /  * 

Noisette 

Briar  or  Own  Root 

Tea 

Mme.  C.  Guinoisseau 

M 

Golden  Yellow  — 

**Mare-chal  Kiel    .        .        ...... 

Noisette 

Briar  or  Own  Root 

*Mme.  Eugene  Verdier 

Tea 

Melody      ; 

Hybrid  Tea 

,  ( 

Lady  Hillingdon        .         .'  !   .  i    .    . 

Tea 

Sunburst    .        .        .... 

Hybrid  Tea 

(  , 

Pure  Yellow  — 

Rayon  d'Or         .        .        .        .        , 

Pernetiana 

Briar  or  Own  Root 

Orange  and  Orange  Scarlet  — 
**W.  A.  Richardson      .        .,  .  .  L  ,  -  ; 

Noisette 

Briar  or  Own  Root 

*Mme.  Pierre  Cochet  .        ....        . 

M 

Ma  Capucine     .        .      :.     •    »  '     . 

Tea 

M 

Cr6puscle  

Noisette 

M 

*Marquise  de  Sinety    .     •  •  .  i  •  *'       . 

Hybrid  Tea 

Briar  or  Own  Root 

Apricot  shaded  — 

*Safrano       .        .        .        i  T  . 

Tea 

WfyW 

ROSES 


587 


NAME, 

CLASS. 

STOCK. 

Apricot  shaded  — 

Mme.  Falcot      

Tea 

Briar  or  Own  Root 

*Francisca  Kruger       .... 

Queen  Mab        

China 

Duchess  of  Wellington 

Hybrid  Tea 

«•        t  ( 

Nankeen  Yellow  — 

*Arthur  R.  Goodwin     .... 

Pernetiana 

Briar  or  Own  Root 

Perle  d'Or  

Polyantha 

Coppery  Red  and  Coppery  Rose  — 

*L'Ideal       

Noisette 

Briar  or  Own  Root 

Mrs.  A.  R.  Waddell  .... 

Hybrid  Tea 

• 

Mme.  E.  Resal  

China 

Souvenir  de  J.  B.  Guillot    . 

Tea 

(i 

Rosy  Flesh,  Pink,  or  Cream,  with  Yellow 

or  Orange  Base  — 

Mme.  Cadeau  Ramey 

Hybrid  Tea 

Briar  or  Own  Root 

Lyons  Rose        

Mme.  E.  Boullet 

Ferdinand  Batel          .        .        .    -',  . 

Striped  Roses  — 

Rosa  Mundi,  or  York  and  Lancaster  . 

Damask 

Briar  or  Own  Root 

Pride  of  Reigate         .... 

Hybrid  Perpetual 

rt 

Rainbow     

Tea 

" 

HEDGE   ROSES 

For  this  purpose  we  would  advise  the  following : 


NAME. 

COLOUR. 

CLASS. 

STOCK. 

Aglaia        .... 

Yellow 

Multiflora 

Own  Root 

Carmine  Pillar   . 

Carmine 

Hybrid  Tea 

M 

Conrad  F.  Meyer 

Rose 

Rugosa 

,, 

Crimson  Rambler 

Crimson 

Multiflora 

M 

Euphrosyne 

Pink 

M 

|f 

Fehcit6  et  Perpetue    . 

White 

Sempervirens 

,, 

Flora  

Pink 

M 

(  ( 

Gloire  de  Dijon  . 

Buff 

Hybrid  Tea 

|i 

Jersey  Beauty 

(  Creamy  White, 
t         Single 

Hybrid       ) 
Wichuraiana  J 

Briar  or  Own  Root 

Juliet           .... 

Pink 

Pernetiana 

§1 

Mme.  Alfred  Carriere 

Creamy  White 

Hybrid  Tea 

,, 

Mme.  Berard     .        .       ~7 

(  Salmon  Rose  ) 
t    and  Yellow   f 

., 

**-  ' 

Penzance  Briars 

Various 

Sweet  Briar 

,, 

Reine  Marie  Henriette 

Red 

Hybrid  Tea 

M 

Reine  Olga  de  Wurtemburg           Crimson 
Sweet  Briar         .         .         .            Various 

Sweet'  Briar 

" 

Tausendschon    .        .         .         Blush  Pink 

Multiflora 

Own  Root 

The  Garland 

Buff 

Hybrid  Musk 

M 

Virginian  Rambler 

Blush 

Ayrshire 

,, 

Zephirine  Drouhin 

Cerise 

Bourbon 

"  '.  ' 

588  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

A  moderately  high  rose  hedge  could  be  formed  with  the  following : 


NAME. 

COLOUR. 

;  CLASS. 

STOCK. 

Aimee  Vibert 

White 

Noisette 

Own  Root  or  Briar 

Alister  Stella  Gray      . 
Armosa       .... 

Orange 
Pink 

Bourbon 

" 

Beaute  de  Lyon 

Blush 

Pernetiana 

,, 

Billiard  et  Barre 

Deep  Yellow 

Hybrid  Tea 

,, 

Blanc  Double  de  Courbet  . 

White 

Rugosa 

,  , 

Charles  Lawson  . 

Rose 

Hybrid  China 

, 

Common  China  . 

Blush 

China 

, 

Dawson  Rose     . 

Pink 

Hybrid  Tea 

i 

Ella  Gordon 

Crimson 

Hybrid  Perpetual 

, 

Fellenberg  .... 

Cherry  Red 

Noisette 

, 

Gruss  an  Teplitz 

Scarlet 

Hybrid  Tea 

, 

Harrisonii  .... 

Yellow 

Austrian  Briar 

, 

Hebe's  Lip 

(  White,  edged  ) 
\         Rose         | 

Gallica 

,, 

Hugh  Dickson   . 

Crimson 

Hybrid  Scotch 

,, 

Lina  Schmidt  Michel 

Pale  Pink 

Hybrid  Tea 

,, 

Longworth  Rambler  . 

Cherry  Red 

Noisette 

M 

Macrantha          .         .         . 

Blush 

Gallica 

H 

Maiden's  Blush  . 

Alba 

,  ( 

Mme.  G.  Bruant 

White 

Rugosa 

M 

Mme.  G.  Luizet 

jPale  Pink 

Hybrid  Perpetual 

,  , 

Mme.  Plantier    . 

White 

Hybrid  Noisette 

,, 

Mrs.  A.  Waterer 

Crimson 

Rugosa 

M 

Mrs.  J.  Laing 
Stanwell  Perpetual     . 

Pale  Pink 
Blush 

Hybrid  Perpetual 
Hybrid  Scotch 

" 

Ulrich  Brunner  . 

Light  Red 

Hybrid  Perpetual 

,, 

1  Yellow,   pass-^j 

ing  to  Cream,  1 

Una    .'        . 

very     beauti-  V 

i) 

ful,    excellent 

pegged  down] 

Waltham  Climber  No.  i    . 

Crimson 

Tea 

" 

When  a  low  rose  hedge  is  required  round  lawn  tennis  ground  or  similar  places, 
the  following  are  very  useful : 


NAME. 

COLOUR. 

CLASS. 

STOCK. 

Scotch  Roses      . 

Various 

Scotch 

Own  Root 

Common  Moss    . 

Pink 

Moss 

M 

Mme.  L.  Messimy 

Rosy  Pink 

China 

Own  Root  or  Briar 

Mrs.  Bosanquet. 

Buff 

M 

M 

Marie  Van  Houtte 

Cream 

Tea 

,  , 

Mme.  Lambard  . 

Pink 

p| 

(i 

Cameons    
Viscountess  Folkestone 

Deep  Rose 
Creamy  White 

Hybrid  Tea 

" 

Anna  Olivier 

Buff 

Tea 

M 

Mme.  Hoste 

Cream 

(i 

( 

Marie  d'  Or  leans. 

Rose 

i 

Corallina     .... 

Coral  Red 

M 

( 

Enchantress 

Cream 

M 

Mme.  Wagram  . 

Carnation 

( 

Mme.  Abel  Chatenay  . 

Vermilion  Pink 

Hybrid  Tea 

t 

Perle  d'Or  .... 

Nankeen 

Polyantha 

t 

Gloire  des  Polyantha  . 

Rose 

t 

Cecile  Brunner   . 

White  &  Flesh 

. 

t 

Common  China  . 

Pink 

China 

• 

USEFUL  TABLES 


589 


SOME  GOOD  FRAGRANT  ROSES 


NAME. 

COLOUR. 

CLASS. 

STOCK. 

A.  K.  Williams  . 

Crimson 

Hybrid  Perpetua 

Own  Root  or  Briar 

Alfred  Colomb    . 

Bright  Red 

f 

l( 

Augustine  Guinoisseau 

Pinky  White 

Hybrid  Tea 

I( 

Baron  de  Bonstetten  . 

Maroon 

Hybrid  Perpetua 

,, 

Beaute"  Inconstante     . 

Metallic  Red 

Tea 

,, 

Beauty  of  Waltham    . 

Cherry 

Hybrid  Perpetua 

M 

Charles  Lefebvre 

Dark  Crimson 

M 

f, 

Charles  Lawson 

Rose 

Hybrid  Chinese 

Own  Root 

Chateau  de  Clos  Vougeot  . 

Maroon  Crimson 

Hybrid  Tea 

Own  Root  or  Briar 

Common  Provence  or  Cab- 

bage Rose 

Pink 

Provence 

Manetti 

Conrad  F.  Meyer 
Countess  of  Pembroke 

Rose 
Rose 

Hybrid  Rugosa 
Hybrid  Tea 

Own  Root  or  Briar 

Crested  Provence 

Pink 

Provence 

Manetti 

Crimson  Queen  . 

Crimson 

Hybrid  Perpetual 

Own  Root  or  Briar 

Devoniensis 

Blush 

Tea 

M 

Dr.  Andry  .... 

Rich  Red 

Hybrid  Perpetual 

M 

Dr.  O'Donel  Browne  . 

Carmine  Rose 

Hybrid  Tea 

,, 

Duchess  of  Albany 

Deep  Pink 

,( 

,, 

Emperor     .... 

Blackish  Crimson 

Hybrid  Perpetual 

,, 

E.  Y.  Teas  .... 

Red 

H 

,, 

Fisher  Holmes   . 

Crimson 

H 

, 

General  Jacqueminot  . 
Gloire  de  Dijon  . 

Red 
Cream 

Tea 

' 

Goubault    .... 

Pink 

,, 

, 

Heinrich  Schultheis    . 

Rosy  Pink 

Hybrid  Perpetual 

, 

Juliet  

Rose  and  Old 

Pernetiana 

, 

Gold 

Kaiserin  Friedrich 

Cream  and  Pink 

Tea 

M 

Kakanlyk   .... 

Pink 

Provence 

Manetti 

Note.  —  This     rose    is 

grown   in   Bulgaria    for 

Attar  of  Roses. 

Lady  A.  Stanley 

Pink  and  Rose 

Hybrid  Tea 

Own  Root  or  Briar 

La  France  .... 

Silvery  Pink 

M 

,, 

La  Rosiere 

Rich  Maroon 

Hybrid  Perpetual 

,, 

L'Ideal        .... 

Bronzy  Red 

Noisette 

, 

Louis  Van  Houtte 

Deep  Crimson 

rlybrid  Perpetual 

, 

Luciole       .... 
Magna  Charta    . 

Pink  &  Apricot 
Deep  Pink 

Tea 
Hybrid  Perpetual 

' 

Marshal  Niel     . 

Yellow 

Noisette 

, 

Marie  Baumaun 

Red 

Hybrid  Perpetual 

, 

Maurice  Bernardin 

Blackish  Crimson 

M 

, 

Meta  

Strawberry 

Tea 

, 

Mme.  Abel  Chatenay 

Vermilion  Rose 

Hybrid  Tea 

, 

Mme.  de  Watteville   . 

Blush  and  Pink 

Tea 

, 

Mrs.  A.  E.  Coxhead  . 

Claret-  Red 

Hybrid  Tea 

, 

Mrs.  Foley  Hobbs      . 

White 

Tea 

,, 

Mrs.  John  Laing 

Pink 

Hybrid  Perpetual 

,, 

Papa  Lambert            .       v 

Rich  Rose 

Hybrid  Tea 

M 

Pink  Rover                  .        V' 

Pink 

,, 

,, 

Pierre  Netting             .    ••'.•- 

Maroon 

Hybrid  Perpetual 

1  1 

Preciosa     .                 .        . 

Light  Red 

,, 

,1 

Prince  Arthur 

Red 

M 

t  > 

Princess  Bonnie 

Rosy  Red 

Hybrid  Tea 

,, 

Senateur  Vaisse 

Rich  Red 

Hybrid  Perpetual 

" 

590 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


NAME. 

COLOUR. 

CLASS. 

STOCK. 

Souvenir  d'un  Ami 

Pink 

Tea 

Own  Root  or  Briar 

Sultan  of  Zanzibar 

Crimson 

Hybrid  Perpetual 

The  Dandy 

Crimson 

Hybrid  Tea 

t 

Ulrich  Brunner  . 
Viscountess  Folkestone 

Red 
Creamy  Pink 

Hybrid  Perpetual 
Hybrid  Tea 

• 

W.  F.  Bennett    . 

Purplish  Red 

• 

Wm.  Warden     . 

Deep  Pink 

Hybrid  Perpetual 

' 

DWARF   ROSES   FOR   FRAME   OR   HOUSE   CULTURE 


NAME. 

COLOUR. 

STOCK. 

Anna  Olivier  ..... 

Cream  and  Buff 

Briar 

Camoens        

Rosy  Pink 

if 

Captain  Hayward 

Crimson  Scarlet 

Briar  or  Manetti 

Caroline  Testout  .... 

Rich  Pink 

Briar 

Enchantress  

Cream 

M 

Fisher  Holmes      .... 

Rich  Red 

M 

General  Jacqueminot     . 

Red 

(  Briar,  Manetti,  or 
t        Own  Root 

La  France     

Silvery  Pink 

>( 

Mme.  Hoste  

Pale  Yellow 

Briar 

Mme.  Lambard    .... 
Marquise  Litta      .... 

Rosy  Salmon 
Vermilion  Rose 

•• 

Marie  Van  Houtte 

Pale  Yellow 

M 

Mrs.  J.  Laing        .... 

Pink 

Briar  or  Manetti 

Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant  .... 

Imperial  Pink 

Briar 

Souvenir  de  S.  A.  Prince 

White 

tt 

Ulrich  Brunner      .... 

Light  Red 

Briar  or  Manetti 

White  Lady  

Pinkish  White 

Briar 

SHRUBS1 
Selection  of  Deciduous  Flowering1  Shrubs  for  Small  Gardens 


Cydonia  Maulei  superba 
Daphne  Mezereum  (The  Mezereon) 
Diervills  (Weigelas) 
Escallonia  philippiana 
Forsythia  suspensa 
Hydrangea  paniculata  grandiflora 
Hypericum  moserianum 
Magnolia  stellata 

Philadelphus    Lemoinei    erectus    (Dwarf 
Mock  Orange) 


Prunus  japonica  flore  alba  pleno 

, ,       triloba  flore  pleno 
Ribes  sanguineum  atrorubens 
Robinia  hispida  inermis  (Rose  Acacia) 
Sophora  viciifolia 
Spiraea  arguta 

,,      Menziesii  triumphans 

japonica  Anthony  Waterer 
Syringas  (Lilacs)  in  variety 
Viburnum  tomentosum  plicatum 


1  These  selections  are  only  intended  for  quite  small  gardens,  therefore  many  good 
kinds  must  necessarily  be  omitted.  Descriptions  and  cultural  hints  are  given  in 
alphabetical  order,  p.  212. 


USEFUL   LISTS  591 

Deciduous  Flowering  Trees  for  Small  Gardens 

^Esculus     carnea     Briotii     (Red-flowered  Prunus  Amygdalus  (Almond) 

Horse  Chestnut)  „      Avium  flore  pleno  (Double  White 

Amelanchier  canadensis  (Snowy  Mespilus)  Cherry) 

Catalpa  bignonioides  , ,      serrulata  flore  pleno 

Crataegus  (Thorns).     Forms  with   double  ,,            ,,        James  H.  Veitch 

scarlet,  rose,  and  white  flowers  Pyrus  Aria  majestica 

Laburnum  vulgare  , ,      floribunda  atrosanguinea 

,,          alpinum  ,,      spectabilis  flore  pleno 
Magnolia  conspicua 

Evergreen  Flowering  Shrubs  for  Small  Gardens 

Berberis  Darwinii  Olearia  Haastii 

,,        stenophylla  Rhododendrons  in  variety 

Choisya  ternata  Veronica  Traversii 

Escallonia  macrantha  (semi-tender)  Viburnum  Tinus  (Laurustinus) 

Kalmia  latifolia  Yucca  gloriosa 

Ligustrum  japonicum  ,,     recurvifolia 
,,          lucidum 

Trees  and  Shrubs  with  Beautiful  Fruit 

Arbutus  Unedo  Hollies  of  sorts 

Berberis  Pernettyas  of  sorts 

Cotoneasters  Pyrus  of  sorts 

Cratsegus  (Thorns)  of  sorts  Sambucus  racemosus 

Euonymus  (Spindle  Tree)  europaeus  Skimmias 

,,          latifolius  Symphoricarpus  racemosus  (Snowberry) 

Hippophae  rhamnoides  (Sea  Buckthorn)  Viburnum  Opulus  (Wild  Guelder  Rose) 

Evergreen  Trees  and  Shrubs  Suitable  for  Planting  near  the  Sea  Coast 

Arbutus  Unedo  Euonymus 

Austrian  Pine  (a  splendid  shelter)  Garrya  elliptica 

Buxus  (Box)  sempervirens  Osmanthus  ilicifolius 

Choisya  ternata  (Mexican  Orange-flower)  Pernettyas 

Cotoneaster  microphylla  Pinus  insignis  (not  an  Evergreen) 

Cupressus  macrocarpa  Quercus  Ilex  (Evergreen  Oak) 

Escallonias  Veronicas 

Deciduous  Shrubs  Suitable  for  Planting  near  the  Sea  Coast 

Deutzias  Hippophae  rhamnoides  (Sea  Buckthorn) 

Fuchsia  Riccartoni  Hydrangeas 

, ,      globosa  Leycesteria  formosa 

, ,      macrostemma,  and  others  Sambucus  canadensis  aurea 

Fuchsia  Riccartoni  makes  a  charming  Symphoricarpus  (Snowberry)  racemosus 

hedge  ;    crimson  with  flowers  from  Tamarisk  (all  the  kinds) 

summer  onwards  Viburnum  Opulus  (Wild  Guelder  Rose) 

Trees  and  Shrubs  with  Conspicuous  Bark  in  Winter 

Betula  alba  (White  Birch)  Rubus  biflorus  (with  quite  white  stems) 

Cornus  alba  (Dogwood)  ,,      lasiostylus 

Fraxinus  (Ash)  excelsior  aurea  Salix  vitellina  (Golden  Willow) 

Weeping  Trees  and  Shrubs 

Betula  (Birch)  alba  pendula  Populus  (Poplar,  or  Aspen )  tremula  pendula 

„      alba  Youngii  ,,       tremuloides  (Parasol  de  St.  Julien) 

Fagus  (Beech)  sylvatica  pendula  Salix  (Willow)  babylonica 

Fraxinus  (Ash)  excelsior  pendula  ,,    elegantissima 

Ilex  (Holly)  Aquifolium  argentea  pendula  Taxus  (Yew)  baccata  Dovastoni  aurea  pen- 

,,   Aquifolium  pendula  dula 

,,           ,,              ,,        aurea  ,,     baccata  pendula 

Picea  morinda  Ulmus  (Elm)  montana  pendula 


592            GARDENING  FOR   BEGINNERS 

Shrubs  Suitable  for  Planting  under  the  Shade  and  Drip  of  Large  Trees 

Aucubas  Gaultheria  Shallon 

Berberis  Aquifolium  Hypericum  calycinum  (St.  John's  Wort) 

Box  Ivy 

Cornus  (Dogwood)  Phillyraea  media 

Cotoneaster  microphylla  Ruscus  (Butcher's  Broom) 

Daphne  Laureola  Symphoricarpus  racemosus  (Snowberry) 

,,        pontica  Vincas  (Periwinkles) 

Trees  not  to  Plant  near  Smoky  Towns 

Abies  Pinus  (Pine) 

Araucaria  imbricata    (Monkey   Puzzle  or       Podocarpus 

Chili  Pine)  Sciadopitys  verticillata 

Picea  Thuya  dolobrata,  and  Conifers  generally 

As  a  rule  all  Pines  and  Conifers  are  a  complete  failure  in  or  near  large  towns. 

Shrubs  Suitable  for  Winter  Bedding  and  Window  Boxes 

Aucubas  Ligustrum  ovalifolium  foliis  aureis 

Box,  gold  and  silver-leaved  varieties  Osmanthuses 

Cryptomeria  elegans  Pernettyas 

Cupressus  lawsoniana  erecta  viridis  Pieris  floribunda 

,,                  ,,          Silver  Queen  Retinosporas 

,,                  ,,          aurea  Skimmias 

Ericas  (Heaths)  Taxus  (Yew)  baccata  elegantissima 

Euonymuses  Thuya  (Biota)  orientalis  semperaurescens 

Laurustinus  Tree  Ivies 

Ligustrum  (Privet)  japonicum  Yucca  recurvifolia 

Trees  and  Shrubs  for  Forcing 

Azaleas  (Mollis  and  forms)  Kerria  japonica  flore  pleno 
Choisya  ternata  (Mexican  Orange-flower)          Magnolia  stellata 

Deutzia  gracilis  Prunus  (Plum)  of  sorts 

,,       Lemoinei  Spiraea  media 

Forsythia  suspensa  ,,       Thunbergii 

Guelder  Rose  Staphylea  colchica 

Hydrangea  paniculata  Syringas  (Lilacs) 

Kalmia  latifolia  Wistaria 

Low-Growing  Shrubs  and  Conifers  for  the  Rock-Garden 

Cryptomeria  japonica  nana  Genista  dalmatica 

,,           elegans  nana  Helianthemum  (Sun  Rose)  of  sorts 

Daboecia  polifolia  and  its  varieties  Juniperus  (Juniper)  prostrata 

Daphne  Cneorum  Leiophyllum  buxifolium 

, ,        alpina  Picea  excelsa  clanbrassiliana 

,,        blagayana  ,,             pygmaea 

Empetrum  nigrum  Rhododendron  ferrugineum 

Ericas  (Heaths)  of  sorts  ,,             anthopogon 

Gaultheria  procumbens  Spiraea  bullata 

Hedge  Plants 

Beech  Holly 

Berberis  Darwinii  Hornbeam 

,,        vulgaris  Juniperus  chinensis 

Box  Tree  Privet 

Buckthorn  Quick  or  Thorn 

Cupressus  lawsoniana  Taxus  baccata  (Yew) 

,,         nootkatensis  Thuya  plicata 

Euonymus  japonicus  ,,      occidentals 
Fuchsias 


USEFUL   LISTS  593 

Plants  for  Pond  Sides 

Arrowhead,  Double  White  Iris  sibirica  (Siberian  Iris) 

Arum  Lily  (where  mild  enough)  ,,    Pseudacorus  (English  Iris) 

Buckbeam  Japan  Primrose  (Primula  japonica) 

Caltha  polypetala  Loosestrife  (Lythrum  Salicaria  and  roseum 

Cardinal  and  Yellow  Willows  superbum) 

Day  Lilies  Marsh  Marigolds  (Caltha  palustris) 

Ferns,  especially  the  Royal  Fern  Polygonum  sachalinense,  9  ft. 

Globe-flowers  (Trollius)  ,,          cuspidatum 

Gunnera  scabra  Ranunculus  Lingua  (Great  Spearwort) 

,,        manicata  Spiraea  palmata 
Herbaceous  Phloxes  ,,      gigantea 

Iris  Kaempferi  (Japan  Iris)  Willow  Herb  (Epilobium) 

A  Few  Plants  for  Water  Surface 

Nymphaeas   (Water    Lilies),   many  lovely      Cape  Pond- flower  (Aponogeton  distachyon) 
hybrids,  colours  from  white  to  intense      Water  Forget-me-not 


CONIFERS 

These  shrubs  and  trees  are  not  so  popular  as  formerly,  and  we  are  in  a  measure 
thankful  for  this,  as  they  were  chosen  recklessly,  many  very  tender  kinds  being  planted 
in  gardens.  It  is  a  great  mistake  to  put  the  Chili  Pine  (Araucaria  imbricata),  also  known  as 
the  Monkey  Puzzle,  in  a  small  garden,  when  we  have  so  many  beautiful  flowering  shrubs. 
One  may  write  the  same  of  the  Deodar.  Conifers  are  useless  in  towns.  Abies  and 
Piceas  are  much  confused  in  nurseries,  so  we  give  the  names  according  to  the  Kew  stan- 
dard. The  finest  Conifers  are  : 
Abies  cephalonia  (Grecian  Silver  Fir),  will  grow  to  a  height  of  60  feet  ;  light  green  leaves, 

silvery  underneath,  north  aspect  best. 
A.  amabilis,  vigorous,  handsome,  deep  glossy  green,  silvery  white  lines  on  under  side  of 

leaf. 

A.  concolor  and  Variety  violacea,  both  good  hardy  and  effective  trees. 
A.  nobilis,  will  grow  250  feet  high  in  its  native  home  of  California  ;  give  moist  soil,  open 

position. 

A.  nordmanniana  (Nordmann's  Fir),  one  of  the  most  beautiful  of  Silver  Firs. 
Cedrus  Deodara  (Deodar  Cedar). — Very  elegant,  Himalaya,  good  for  lawn  or  to  form  an 

avenue.     Robusta,  erecta,  and  variegata  are  very  distinct. 

C.  Libani  (Cedar  of  Lebanon)  is  well  known,  and  another  beautiful  cedar  is  C.  atlantica, 
which  is  quite  hardy  and  is  a  success  in  hungry  soils.  Good  varieties  of  the  latter 
are  fastigiata,  erect  in  growth  ;  aurea,  with  golden  foliage  ;  and  glauca,  silvery. 
Cryptomeria  japonica  (Japan  Cedar);  sheltered  position,  rich  soil,  but  must  not  be  ex- 
posed to  biting  winds.  Elegans  is  a  graceful  variety.  In  spring  its  narrow  pointed 
leaves  are  pale  green  and  in  winter  quite  bronzy  colour.  Lobbi  and  Lobbinana 
are  good  forms. 

Cupressus. — An  important  Conifer  group  for  small  gardens.  The  kinds  named  succeed 
in  ordinary  soil.  Retinosporas  are  included  amongst  the  Cupressus.  C.  macro- 
carpa  (Monterey  Cypress),  excellent  for  sea  coast ;  lutea  is  a  good  golden  form. 
C.  nootkatensis  (Thujopsis  borealis]  is  very  handsome,  perfectly  hardy,  and  grace- 
ful, suitable  for  lawns.  The  finest  varieties  are  compacta,  pendula,  gracilis,  aurea, 
variegata,  and  lutea,  the  last  named  being  very  showy.  C.  lawsoniana  (Lawson 
Cypress)  is  free,  graceful,  succeeds  in  almost  any  soil,  and  makes  a  good  hedge, 
as  it  does  not  mind  pruning.  It  is  very  pretty  in  spring  when  its  male  catkins 
appear  in  profusion.  The  most  distinct  varieties  are  :  Darleyensis,  bronzy  yellow 
leaves,  useful  for  small  gardens,  and  effective  in  winter;  gracilis,  albo-spica, 
tipped  with  creamy  white,  and  lutea,  rich  yellow  foliage.  C.  obtusa  {Retinospora 
obtusa)  is  an  excellent  Conifer  for  small  gardens,  as  also  are  its  varieties  compacta, 
filifera,  with  long  pendulous  thread-like  shoots  ;  aurea,  rich  yellow  foliage,  touched 
with  bronze  brown  in  winter  ;  and  the  golden-leaved  gracilis  aurea.  C.  pisifera 
(Retinospora  pisifera}  is  of  elegant  growth  ;  moist  soft— aurea  is  a  golden-leaved 
form.  C.  plumosa  is  a  charming  lawn  Conifer,  and  the  variety  aurea,  one  of  the 
best  variegated  shrubs  in  gardens.  A  well-drained  soil  and  position  are  needful. 

2  P 


594  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

Ginkgo  biloba  or  Salisburia  adiantifolia  is  a  very  distinct  and  quite  hardy  Conifer, 
especially  adapted  for  town  gardens.  Its  autumn  tints  are  rich  yellow  and  orange. 

Juniperus  (Junipers). — The  following  are  quite  hardy  and  happy  in  well-drained  soil : 
Red  Cedar  (/.  virginiana),  excellent  for  fringe  of  lawn,  rich  green  leaves,  passing 
to  brown  in  winter.  /.  chinensis  is  erect,  with  small,  stiff  glaucous  leaves  ;  the 
silver-leaved  variety  albo  variegata  and  the  golden  form  aurea  are  effective,  especi- 
ally the  last-named  in  winter.  The  Savin  is  a  beautiful  shrub  for  dry  banks,  and 
the  variety  procumbens  is  especially  ornamental  in  winter.  Other  good  varieties  of 
the  common  Savin  are  humilis,  tamariscifolia,prostrata,  and  variegata. 

Larch  is  valuable,  but  too  well  known  to  need  description.  May  be  propagated  from 
seed  sown  thinly  in  raised  beds  ;  cover  seed  with  fine  soil. 

Piceas. — Closely  allied  to  Abies  ;  useful  for  park  and  garden.  P.  Englemanni  and  the 
variety  glauca  are  very  hardy  and  free ;  good  for  lawns.  P.  Morinda  (Abies 
Smithiana)  is  a  noble  spruce,  very  hardy,  pendulous  growth,  and  very  suitable  for 
lawns.  P.  pungens  and  its  varieties,  pungens  and  pendula,  are  very  ornamental. 
P.  excelsa  and  forms  are  good  garden  kinds. 

Pines. — These  must  be  for  large  gardens  ;  but  one  cannot  leave  them  out  of  a  book  of 
this  kind.  P.  Strobus  (Weymouth  Pine)  is  elegant,  with  straight,  much-branched 
trunk,  and  long  glaucous  leaves.  P.  Laricio  (Corsican  Pine)  is  a  fine  seaside  Pine, 
and  makes  a  handsome  shelter.  P.  austriaca  (Austrian  Pine)  is  one  of  the  most 
popular  Pines,  very  hardy  and  vigorous,  and  makes  a  good  shelter  on  the  coast. 
P.  Cembra  (Swiss  Stone  Pine)  is  a  beautiful  lawn  tree.  P.  Pinea  (Stone  Pine)  is 
a  fine  lawn  tree,  but  rather  tender ;  loamy  soil.  P.  excelsa  (Bhotan  Pine)  hardy, 
graceful,  and  likes  dry  soil. 

Taxus  (Yew).— The  English  Yew  is  T.  baccata,  and  is  beautiful  on  the  lawn,  and  its 
adaptability  for  hedges  and  windbreaks  is  well  known.  It  enjoys  best  a  rather 
moist  soil,  but  will  grow  almost  anywhere.  Plant  in  spring  or  autumn.  Get 
seedling  plants. 

Thuyas. — An  important  group.  T.  plicata,  or  gigantea  as  it  is  called,  is  an  excellent 
Conifer.  T.  japonica  is  pretty  in  winter.  T,  occidentalis  (American  Arbour  Vitas) 
makes  an  excellent  hedge.  T.  orientalis  makes  a  bushy  shrub.  T.  ericoides,  or 
Retinospora  ericoides,  is  a  popular  Conifer,  with  delicate  green  leaves,  stained  with 
violet  brown. 


PLANTS   SUITABLE  FOR   COLD   GREENHOUSE 
Shrubby  Plants 

In  House  absolutely  Unheated.  In  House  with  ™%%rygemperature  "°* 

Abelia  rupestris  Abutilon  vitifolium 

Amygdalus  nanus  (Dwarf  Almond)  Acacia  armata 

Azalea,  Ghent  and  mollis  varieties  Azalea  indica  varieties 

Berberis  Darwini  Brugmansia  (Trumpet-flower)  sanguinea 

Camellia  japonica  varieties  ,,                                         suaveolens 

,,        Sasanqua  Cassia  corymbosa 

Choisya  ternata  (Mexico  Orange-flower)  Cistus  purpureus 

Cistus  lusitanicus  Clianthus  puniceus  (Glory  Pea) 

Coronilla  glauca  Cytisus  prolifera 

Daphne  Mezereum  (Common  Mezereon)  Daphne  indica 

Deutzia  gracilis  Echium  fastuosum 

,,       Lemoinei  Lemon  and  Orange  Trees 

Erica  (Heath)  herbacea  Nerium  oleander 

,,                  mediterranea  Pseonies,  Moutan,  in  pots 

Fabiana  imbricata  Poinciana  Gilliesi 

Fuchsia  Mme.  Cornellison  Polygala  dalmaisiana 

Hydrangea  hortensis  Rubus  rosaefolius 

, ,          Thomas  Hogg  Veronica  Hulkeana 
Hypericum  moserianum 

,,          patulum 
Jasminum    nudiflorum    (Winter-flowering 

Jasmine) 
Magnolia  conspicua  (the  Yulan) 


USEFUL   LISTS 


595 


In  House  absolutely  Unheated. 

Magnolia  stellata  (pots) 
Myrtle,  Large  and  small-leaved 
Nerium  oleander 
Fernet  tya  mucronata 
Primus  sinensis  fl.  pi. 

,,      triloba 
Ribes  (Flowering  currant)  sanguinea  and 

sanguinea  alba  (small  plants  in  pots) 
Rhododendron 

dahuricum 

Early  Gem 

ignescens 

nobleanum 

racemosum 

praecox,   and   other    florist 

varieties 
Veronica  Andersoni,   and    other  shrubby 

varieties 

Viburnum  Tinus  (Laurustinus) 
,,          lucidum 
, ,         plicatum 
Weigela  hortensis  nivea 


In  House  with  Winter  Temperature  not 
below  35°. 


Climbers 


Akebia  quinata 

Clematis     calycina    and    florist    varieties 

(Patens  type) 

Humulus  japonicus  (Japanese  Hop)  (ann. ) 
Mina  lobata  (ann.) 
Smilax  aspera 
Solanum  jasminoides 
Stauntonia  latifolia 

Roses.     (See  special  list,  p.  580.) 


Clematis  indivisa 

Hibbertia  dentata 

Habrothammus  elegans 

,,  fascicularis 

Kennedya  Marryattiae 
,,         lilacina 

Lapageria 

Lonicera  (Honeysuckle)  sempervirens 

Maurandya  barclayana 

Mandevillea  suaveolens 

Nasturtium  (Tropaeolum  lobbianum  varie- 
ties) 

Tropseolum  azureum 

pentaphyllum 
tricolor 


Bulbs  and  Tubers 


Allium  (Onion)  neapolitanum 

Anemone  apennina  (Apennine  Windflower) 

,,        blanda 

, ,         coronaria 

,,        fulgens 

, ,        stellata  (hortensis) 
Anomatheca  cruenta 

Anthericum  (St.  Bruno's  Lily)  Liliastrum 
Chionodoxa  (Glory  of  the  Snow)  lucilse 

,,  sardensis 

Crinum  Powelli 
Crocosmia  a  urea 
Crocus  Imperati,  and  others 
Cyclamen  coum 

,,         europaeum 

,,         hederaefolium 

, ,         vernum 

Ery  thronium  Dens  canis(  Dog's-toothViolet ) 
Fritillaria  (Snake's-head)  Meleagris 


Agapanthus  (African  Lily)  umbellatus 
Alstroemeria  (Peruvian  Lily)  pelegrina  alba 
Amaryllis  formossissimus 
Anoiganthus  brevifolius 
Blandfordias 
Cannas 
Clivia  miniata 
Crinum  Moorei 
Haemanthus  albiflos 
Iris  chinense 
Ixias 

Lachenalias  Nelsoni 
,,  pendula 

,,  tricolor,  and  others 

Libertia  formosa 
Lilium  (Lily)  longiflorum 

,,      tenuifolium,  and  others 
Ornithogalum    (Star    of    Bethlehem)   ara- 
bicum 


596  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

In  House  absolutely  Unheated.  In  H°U3e  with 


Fritillaria  alba  Oxalis  cernua 

,,         pallidiflora  ,,      versicolor 

,,         pudica  Vallota  purpurea 

Funkia  grandiflora  Veltheimia  viridifolia 

,,       Sieboldi  Zephyranthes  carinata 

Galtonia  candicans  (Cape  Hyacinth) 
Gladiolus  ramosus  section  —  Colvillei,  albus, 

&c. 

Hyacinths,  Florists'  and  Roman 
Iris  alata 
,  ,   reticulata 
,  ,    stylosa 
,  ,    tuberpsa 
,  ,    Spanish  vars. 
Jonquils,  N.  capax  fl.  pi. 

,,        N.  odorus 

Kniphofia  (Tritoma)  corallina  (Flame-flower) 
,  ,         Macowani 
longicollis 

Lilium  (Lily)  candidum 
,,      davuricum 
,,       speciosum 
,,       tigrinum,  &c. 
Lily  of  the  Valley 
Milla  uniflora 
Montbretias 

Muscari  (Grape  Hyacinth)botryoides  album 
Narcissi  (Trumpet  Daffodils) 
Emperor 
Horsfieldi 
Golden  Spur 
obvallaris 

Soleil  d'Or  (Tazetta  vars.) 
Grand  Monarch 
Bulbocodium  (Corbularias) 
citrina 
monophylla 
triandrus,  &c. 
Ornithogalum  nutans 
Ranunculus  (Buttercup)  Persian  vars. 
Schizostylis  coccinea  (Winter  Gladiolus) 
Scilla  hispanica 

,  ,     sibirica 

Sisyrinchium  grandiflorum  (Satin-flower) 
Tecophilaea  cyano-crocus 
Trillium  grandiflorum  (White  Wood  Lily) 
Tulipa  (Tulip)  clusiana 
,,       fragrans 

,,      retroflexa,  and  florists'  vars. 
Zephyranthes  Candida 


Some  Foliage  Plants 

Acanthus  latifolius  Aspidistra  (Parlour  palm)  lurida 

,,         mollis  Dracaena  australis 
,,         spinosus  , ,        indivisa  (in  pots) 

Aralia  japonica  Eulalia  zebrina 

Asparagus  verticillatus  Ruscus  racemosus 

Aucubas  Smilax  aspera 

Carex  japonica 

Centaurea  ragusina 

Chamgerops  excelsa  (Fan  palm) 


USEFUL  LISTS 


597 


In  House  absolutely  Unheated. 

Cineraria  maritima 
Equisetum  (Horse-tail)  sylvaticus 
Eucalyptus  globulus 
Eugenia  buxifolia 
Eulalia  japonica 
,,      variegata 

Euonymus  radicans  variegatus 
Ivies,  small  variegated 
Myrtle,  large-leaved 
Ribbon  Grass 
Thalictrum  adiantifolium 


In  House  with  Winter  Temperature,  not 
below  35°. 


Miscellaneous  Pot  Plants 


Aquilegia  (Columbine)  cosrulea 
Calceolaria  violacea 
Campanula  (Bell-flower)  Allioni 
fragillis 
isophylla 
pyramidal  is 

Carnations,  Marguerite  vars. 
Cheiranthus  (Wallflower)  alpinus 
,,  Cheiri,  Florists'  vars. 

Dahlia  glabrata 
Delphinium  sinense 
Dianthus  (Pink)  Heddewigii 
Dielytra  spectabilis  (Lyre-flower) 
Francoa  appendiculata 

, ,        ramosa 
Helleborus  niger 
Heuchera  sanguinea  and  vars. 
Linum  monogynum 

,,       narbonense 
Lobelia  cardinalis  vars. 
Megasea  crassifolia 
Mimulus  (Monkey-flower)  maculosus 

,,  moschatus 

Myosotis  dissitiflora  (Forget-me-not) 

,,        palustris 

Ononis  (Rest  Harrow)  rotundifolius 
Orobus  vernus 
Pinks  of  all  kinds 
Phlox  amcena 
,,      divaricata 
, ,      subulata  vars. 
Primula  auricula 

,,       denticulata 

,,       japonica 
Sieboldi 

,,        verticillata,     and     many     newer 

species 
Saxifraga  Cotyledon 

,,         Fortunei 

sarmentosa,  and  many  others 
Stocks  Intermediate 
Spiraea  japonica 

Tiarella  cordifolia  (Foam-flower) 
Tricyrtis  hirta 
Trollius  asiaticus 

, ,       europaeus 


Arctotis  aspera 
Calceolaria  alba 
Celsia  Arcturus 
Chrysanthemums 
Cinerarias 

Convolvulus  Cneorum 
Diplacus  glutinosus 
Fragaria  (Strawberry)  indica 
Hypericum  chinense 
Iberis  (Candytuft)  gibraltarica 
Kalosanthes  coccinea 
Lotus  peliorynchus 
Lychnis  grandiflora 
Mesembryanthemum  aurea 
,,  blanda 

,,  rosea 

glaucum,  &c. 
Pentstemon  Cobaea 

,,  Murrayanus 

,,          speciosus 
Rochea  falcata 
Salvia  Bethelli 

,,      Pitcheri 

, ,      rutilans 
Sedum  carneum  variegatum 

„      Sieboldi 
Swainsona  galegifolia  alba 


598  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

CHRYSANTHEMUMS 
SELECTIONS   FOR  VARIOUS   PURPOSES 

For  cultural  hints  see  pages  353-365 

Twenty-four  Japanese  for  Exhibition.— His  Majesty,  rich  crimson;  King  George, 
mulberry  red;  Bob  Pulling,  rich  yellow;  Japan,  deep  orange  yellow;  Mrs.  Gilbert 
Drabble,  pure  glistening  white;  H.  E.  Converse,  reddish  bronze,  gold  reverse;  Fred 
Green,  purple;  Harry  Wood,  crimson,  shaded  scarlet;  William  Turner,  pure  white; 
Francis  Jolliffe,  canary  yellow,  each  petal  edged  rose ;  Lady  Edward  Letchworth, 
golden  yellow ;  Kara  Dow,  chestnut  bronze ;  Mrs.  A.  T.  Miller,  pure  white ;  Master 
James,  chestnut  red  ;  F.  S.  Vallis,  straw  yellow ;  Pockett's  Crimson,  a  very  deep  crimson  ; 
Mrs.  L.  Thorn,  pure  yellow ;  White  Queen ;  Walter  Jinks,  rich  rose  pink ;  W.  Mease, 
old  rosy  cerise;  Sir  Frank  Crisp,  chestnut  red;  Miss  Annie  Nicoll,  pure  white;  Mrs. 
R.  H.  B.  Marsham,  white  ;  Marie  Loomes,  chestnut  terra-cotta. 

The  Best  Japanese  Varieties  for  Decorations.— Source  d'Or,  rich  orange  red ; 
William  Holmes,  crimson ;  Western  King,  pure  white ;  Crimson  Source  d'Or ;  La 
Triomphante,  mauve  lilac ;  Caprice  de  Printemps,  rosy  pink ;  Dr.  Enguehard,  rosy 
pink;  Moneymaker,  pure  white;  Mrs.  J.  W.  Scott,  pure  white;  Mrs.  Greenfield,  deep 
yellow ;  Madame  R.  Oberthur,  pure  white,  late  ;  Tuxedo,  orange,  late ;  Winter  Cheer, 
pink,  late. 

Six  Thread-Petalled  and  other  Fantastic  Flowers.— Mrs.  James  Carter,  pale  yellow ; 
Alice  Carter,  reddish  crimson,  tipped  gold;  Golden  Shower,  golden  yellow,  passing  to 
crimson  at  end  of  petals  ;  Bouqueterre,  white,  tipped  yellow  and  rose  ;  Mrs.  Wm.  Filkins, 
yellow  ;  and  Mrs.  W.  Butters,  white.  The  first  four  are  thread-petalled  varieties. 

Eighteen  Incurved  Sorts  for  Exhibition.— Hanwell  Glory,  bright  bronze;  Mrs.  H. 
J.  Jones,  white  ;  Duchess  of  Fife,  pure  white  ;  Charles  H.  Curtis,  yellow  ;  Mrs.  W.  Howe, 
golden  amber;  Lady  Isabel,  blush  lavender;  Mrs.  W.  C.  Egan,  light  pink,  shading  to 
white ;  Madame  Ferlat,  white ;  Topaze  Oriental,  straw  yellow  ;  Mrs.  R.  C.  Kingston,  soft 
lilac  pink ;  C.  Blick,  rose  violet  on  white  ground ;  Miss  Nellie  Southam,  deep  rose  purple ; 
Mrs.  F.  Judson,  pure  white;  Mrs.  Barnard  Hankey,  deep  bronze;  Mildred  Lyne,  fawn, 
shaded  bronze ;  Clara  Wells,  rich  cream  ;  Buttercup,  rich  yellow ;  Frank  Trestian, 
amber,  shaded  bright  orange. 

Four  Incurved  Sorts  for  Decorations.— Mrs.  George  Rundle,  white;  George  Glenny, 
pale  canary  yellow ;  Golden  George  Glenny,  golden  yellow ;  and  Mr.  Bunn,  bright  deep 
yellow. 

Six  Beflexed.— Cullingfordi,  bright  crimson;  Pink  Christine,  light  pink;  King  of 
Crimsons,  deep  crimson  ;  Peach  Christine,  peach  pink  ;  White  Christine,  white  ;  and 
Golden  Christine,  golden  bronze. 

Six  Large  Anemones. — Descartes,  rich  reddish  chestnut ;  Cincinnati,  blush  pink, 
lighter  centre ;  Mrs.  Judge  Benedict,  sulphur,  tinted  blush ;  Madame  Robt.  Owen,  pure 
white;  Gluck,  orange  yellow  ;  and  Delaware,  creamy  white. 

Twelve  Large-Flowered  Japanese  Anemones.— John  Bunyan,  rich  yellow;  W.  W. 
Astor,  salmon  blush,  golden  rose  centre;  Sir  Walter  Raleigh,  pale  blush,  centre  lilac, 
tipped  yellow  ;  Enterprise,  rose,  sulphur  centre  ;  Nelson,  crimson  purple ;  Mrs.  Hugh  H. 
Gardiner,  deep  rose,  high  disc,  tipped  gold ;  Marcia  Jones,  pure  white ;  Mile.  Cabrol, 
rose  pink,  lilac  disc ;  Queen  Elisabeth,  silvery  blush,  rose  centre,  tipped  yellow  ;  Robert 
Burns,  blush,  creamy  yellow  centre ;  Le  Chalonais,  citron  yellow ;  and  Fabian  de 
Mediana,  white,  shaded  purple,  lilac  centre. 

Six  Pompon  Anemones. — Antonius,  bright  yellow;  Emily  Rowbottom,  bluish  white  ; 
Marie  Stuart,  blush,  sulphur  centre;  Madame  Chalonge,  blush,  tipped  sulphur;  Calliope, 
ruby  red ;  Regulus,  cinnamon  brown  ;  and  Magenta  King,  magenta,  centre  yellow. 

Six  Pompons.— William  Westlake,  rich  golden  yellow ;  William  Kennedy,  crimson, 
amaranth  ;  Mile.  Elise  Dordan,  silvery  pink ;  Rosinante,  blush  rose  ;  Comte  de  Morny, 
purple ;  and  Osiris,  rosy  pink,  tipped  gold. 

Six  Miniature-Flowered  Pompons.— Snowdrop,  pure  white ;  Primrose  League,  pale 
canary  yellow ;  Miss  Gertie  Waterer,  pale  flesh  pink ;  Katie  Manning,  rosy  bronze ; 
Model  of  Perfection,  lilac,  edged  white  ;  and  Victorine,  dark  brown. 

Eighteen  Large-Flowered  Singles.— Phyllis  Bryant,  sulphur  yellow ;  Mrs.  W.  G. 
Patching,  bronzy  chestnut,  white  disc ;  Mrs.  Tresham  Gilby,  deep  yellow ;  Mrs.  W. 
Buckingham,  pink;  Mensa,  pure  white;  Edith  Pagram,  rich  pink;  Caledonia,  rosy 
lilac;  Sylvia  Slade,  garnet  red  ;  Roupell  Beauty,  wine  red  ;  Sandown  Raidence,  chest- 


USEFUL   LISTS  599 

nut  crimson  ;  Sunset,  bronze,  with  red  tips  ;  Pictor,  blush  pink  ;  White  Edith  Pagrarrr, 
Pegasus,  white ;  Mrs.  Hazelhurst,  terra-cotta ;  Metta,  deep  magenta ;  Crown  Jewel, 
bronzy  yellow  ;  Cannell's  Yellow  ;  and  Altrincham  Yellow. 

Twelve  Small-Flowered  Singles.— Mary  Anderson,  pale  blush;  Mrs.  D.  B.  Crane, 
cerise  pink ;  Emily  Wells,  clear  pink;  Annie  Tweed,  bright  crimson;  Miss  Annie  Holden, 
straw  yellowj  Ladysmith,  rose  pink  ;  Mary  Richardson,  rich  terra-cotta  ;  Crimson  Mary 
Richardson  f  Lady  Clinton,  pure  white  ;  Jupiter,  clear  yellow ;  Emile,  bright  pink  ;  and 
Marguerite  Pink,  golden  buff. 


EARLY-FLOWERING  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

Twelve  Pompons  for  Outdoor  Culture.— Mr.  Selly,  rosy  lilac ;  Little  Bob,  bright 
chestnut  crimson ;  Yellow  L'Ami  Conderchet,  rich  golden  yellow ;  Blushing  Bride,  rose 
lilac  ;  Bronze  Bride,  bronzy  rose  ;  Alice  Butcher,  orange  red  ;  Lyon,  rosy  purple ;  Mrs. 
Cullingford,  white  ;  Miss  Davis,  blush  pink  ;  Madame  Ed.  Lefort,  bright  orange,  tinted 
red  ;  Veuve  Cliquot,  bronzy  buff;  and  J.  B.  Duvoir,  blush  lilac. 

Twenty-four  Border  Varieties. — Elstob  Yellow,  better  than  Horace  Martin ;  Crimson 
Diana,  deep  crimson;  Cecil  Wells,  buttercup  yellow ;  Emily,  pure  white;  Barbara 
Forbes,  large  pure  white;  Dolly  Prince,  a  very  early  white;  Gertie,  salmon  pink ; 
Harrie,  bronzy  orange ;  Jack,  reddish  terra-cotta ;  Le  Pactole,  bronzy  yellow ;  Lillie, 
clear  pink  ;  Mrs.  Roots,  pure  white ;  Tonkin,  reddish  orange  ;  Venise,  golden  salmon ; 
White  Quintus ;  Rabbie  Burns,  rosy  cerise  ;  Rosie,  terra-cotta  ;  Province,  rose  pink ; 
Normandie,  blush  pink;  Nina  Blick,  scarlet  red;  Pride  of  Keston,  deep  rose;  Ralph 
Curtis,  creamy  white  ;  Marvel,  rich  plum  ;  Harvest  Home,  red,  tipped  gold. 


6oo 


GARDENING    FOR   BEGINNERS 


STOVE   PLANTS* 


NAME. 

SEASON  OF 
FLOWERING. 

REMARKS. 

Allamanda        , 

Summer 

Handsome     climbing     plants,    bearing 

numerous  large,  showy,  yellow  flowers. 

Propagate  by  means  of  cuttings  in 

spring.     Succeed  best  when  planted 

out,  or  in  a  very  large  pot.      Com- 

post,    fibrous     loam,     with     some 

coarse  sand  and  cow  manure  added. 

Prune  the  shoots  annually  in   early 

spring  to  within  two  joints  of  the  old 

wood.     Do  not   shade   except  from 

very  hot  sun.     A.  Schotti,  A.  nobilis, 

Chelsoni,  and  A.  grandiflora  are  the 

best. 

Anthurium  crystallinum    . 

... 

Has   large   velvety    green    leaves  ;    the 
veins  beautifully  marked  with  white  ; 

a  handsome  foliage  plant.     Requires 

a  compost  of  peat,  sphagnum  moss,  and 

charcoal  ;  preferably  grown  in  pans, 

well  drained.  Plants  must  be  so  placed 

as  to  be  on  a  slight  mound  when  the 

potting   is    finished.     Propagate    by 

dividing  the  plants  very  carefully  in 

early  spring.     Afford  plenty  of  mois- 

ture. 

A.  scherzerianum 

Throughout 

The  chief  beauty  of  this  plant  and  its 

many  months 

numerous  varieties  is  centred  in  the 

brightly-coloured  spathes.     It  grows 

about    i    foot    high,    and    forms    a 

charming    object  when    the  scarlet 

spathes  are  at  their  best.     They  re- 

main bright  for  a  long  time. 

Aralia       .... 

... 

Several  Aralias,  notably  A.  Veitchi,  A. 

Veitchi  gracillima,  and  A.  elegantis- 

sima,  are  very  elegant  foliage  plants  ; 

most  suitable  for  table  decoration. 

Soil,  loam  and  peat  with  silver  sand. 

Usually  propagated  by  grafting. 

Aphelandra  aurantiaca     . 

Winter 

Evergreen,  bearing  very  showy,  orange- 
scarlet  flowers.     After  the  flowering 

season,   diminish    supply  of   water, 

give  a  lower  temperature,  and  prune 

about  March  to  two  buds  from  the 

old  wood.     When  shoots  begin  to 

appear,  remove   plants  to  the  stove 

and  repot  in  fibrous  loam,  peat,  and 

silver  sand. 

Achimenes 

Summer 

Beautiful  stove  flowering  plants  ;    her- 

baceous   perennials,  having    under- 

ground tubercles.     These  should  be 

placed  several  in  a  6-inch  pot  from 

January  to  March  so  as  to  provide  a 

succession  of  bloom.     Grow  in  peat 

and  leaf  soil  with  a  little  silver  sand 

and    manure   incorporated,    placing 

*  As  beginners  seldom  start  with  stove  plants,  a  brief  list  of  only  the  most  important 
kinds  is  given.     For  meaning  of  the  word  "  stove,"  see  p.  520. 


STOVE   PLANTS 


601 


SEASON  OF 

NAME. 

FLOWERING. 

REMARKS. 

Achimenes        .        * 

Summer 

the    tubercles  about   $  inch    below 

the    soil.       Tie  the    stems    to    neat 

stakes  as  they  grow.     After  flowering, 

gradually  decrease  water  supply,  and 
finally    withhold    altogether    during 

winter,  placing  the  pots  on  their  sides 

in  a  warm  house. 

Begonia    .... 

... 

The  varieties  of  Begonia  Rex  are  well 

worth    growing    for    their    prettily 
marked,   handsome  leaves.      Propa- 

gated by  leaf  cuttings  obtained  by  in- 
serting the  leaves  in  a  pan  of  sand, 

partially  covering    and   making  in- 

cisions across  the  principal  ribs.     Of 

easy  culture  in  a  soil  composed  of 

peat  and  loam  with  plenty  of  silver 

sand.      Some     of    the    best    stove 

flowering  Begonias  are  the  following  : 

B.  Gloire  de  Lorraine,  B.  socotrana, 

B.  nitida,  B.  manicata,  B.  metallica, 

B.  hydrocotifolia,  B.  Winter  Cheer, 

B.  Ensign,  B.  Mrs.  Heal,  B.  Gloire 

de  Sceaux.      B.  socotrana  forms  a 

number  of  small  bulbs  at  the  base  of 

its  stems  ;    it  rests  during  summer, 

beginning  to  grow  about  September, 
flowering  during  winter.     The  others 

above  mentioned  may  be  propagated 

by  division  of  the  root  or  from  seed, 

and,  with  the  exception  of  B.  metal- 

lica, are  winter  flowering.     B.  mani- 

cata is  a  very  easily  grown  kind.     It 
may  be  raised  from  cuttings  in  early 

April,  and  put  singly  into  aj-inch 

pots,  or  three  in  a  6-inch  size.     They 

will  strike  readily  upon  a  hot-bed. 

When  rooted  place  them  in  a  frame, 

giving    increased    quantity    of   air, 

and  in  mid-June  transfer    them  to 

pots  4^-inch  and  6-inch  in  size.  When 

three  cuttings  are  put  into  one  pot, 

these  may  be  moved  without  separa- 

tion from  the  6-inch  pot  to  an  8-inch 

one.     During  the  summer  keep  the 

plants  in  a  frame,  and  give  air  on  all 

favourable    occasions,    moving    the 

plants  when  colder  days  come  to  a 

house  with  a  temperature  of  about  50 

degrees.     Water  the  plants  when  the 
pots  are  full  of  roots  with  weak  liquid 

manure.      Never    injure    the    large 

fleshy  leaves.    The  pretty  pink-tinted 

flowers  are  produced  in  panicles,  and 

Bouganvillea  glabra        .;.»' 

Summer 

a  plant  in  full  beauty  is  delightful. 
Shrubby  climber  suitable  for  either  stove 
or  greenhouse,  producing  masses  of 

rosy  purple  bracts.     Does  best  when 

planted  out.     Prune  to  one  or  two 

buds  in  February.    Give  liberal  treat- 
ment :   loamy  soil  with  silver  sand 

mixed  in. 

602 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


NAME. 

SEASON  OF 
FLOWERING. 

REMARKS. 

B.  spectabilis  . 

Early  Summer 

Bracts,  warm  brick  red.     Similar  treat- 

ment as  above. 

B.  sanderiana  .        . 

Summer 

A  handsome  and  valuable  variety  of  B. 

glabra. 

Caladium  .... 

... 

Valuable    ornamental    leaved    tuberous 

rooted    perennials  ;    remarkable    for 

the  varied  beauty  of  their  foliage.   The 

tubers  remain  in  their  pots  throughout 

the  winter  exactly  as  Achimenes  ;  they 

are  started  in  March,  placing  one  in 

a  4^-inch  or  6-inch  pot  according  to 

size  ;  use  rough,  rich  peaty  soil,  and 

plenty  of  silver  sand.     Towards  July 

diminish  the  water  supply,  and  gradu- 

ally dry  off.     Shade  from   hot  sun 

only. 

Clcrodendron  Thomsonae 

Summer 

Shrubby    climber,   bearing    panicles  of 

numerous  showy  scarlet  flowers,  with 

large,  prominent  white  sepals.  Prune 
after  flowering,  and  keep  somewhat 

dry    during    winter.     Give    a    good 

loamy  soil,  and  plant  out  if  possible 

in  preference  to  pot  culture. 

Codiaeum  (Croton)    . 

... 

Perhaps  the  most  valuable   decorative 

stove  plants  we  have  ;    remarkable 

for  the  fine  markings  of  their  leaves. 

Propagated  best  by  rooting  the  tops  ; 
this  is  done  by  making  an  incision  in 

the  stem  in  spring,  and  covering  this 

with  moss.     Roots  will  form  in  a  few 

weeks,  when  the  shoot  may  be  re- 

moved   and    potted.      Crotons    like 

plenty  of  sun,  moisture,  and  heat, 

and  a  fairly  rich,  sandy  soil.     Some 

of  the  best  varieties  are  :  Queen  Vic- 

toria,  golden  yellow,   mottled  with 

green  ;   undulatum,  crisped  margins 

to  the  leaves,  claret  colour,  blotched 

crimson  ;  Reedi,  very  fine,  brick-red 

shade  predominating;  chelsoni,  nar- 

row,   orange    and    crimson;    Baron 

Frank  Selliere,  pretty  green  and  white; 
AigburthGem  ;  Van  Oerstedii,  charm- 

ing, very  dwarf,  green  and  yellow; 

Flamingo,  handsome,  dark  red  ;  Mrs. 

Iceton,    light    yellow    and    carmine 

shades. 

Dipladenia  amabilis  . 

Summer 

A  beautiful  climber  ;  flowers  of  a  lovely 

rosy  crimson. 

D.  brearleyana  . 

Summer 

Climber  ;     flowers    pink,    changing    as 
they  age  to  rich  crimson.    The  Dipla- 

denias  mentioned  are  charming  stove 

plants,    although    the    flowers    are 

not  long  lasting.     Propagate  by  cut- 
tings taken  in  the  spring  when  the 

old    plants    begin    to    grow.      Give 

them   plenty  of  heat  and  moisture, 

and  finally  plenty  of  light  to  mature 

the  wood  well.     Prune  after  flower- 

ing, and  keep  somewhat  dry  during 

winter. 

STOVE   PLANTS 


603 


NAME. 


SEASON  OF 
FLOWERING. 


REMARKS. 


Dracaena  . 


Eranthemum       neivosum 
(pulchellum) 

Eucharis  amazonica  . 


Winter 


Various 


Fittonia     . 


Gardenia  florida  and  var. 
radicans 


Gloriosa  superba 


Gloxinia    .        ,        . 


Maranta  arundinacea 


Early  Spring 
and  Summer 


Summer 


Early  Summer 


Ornamental  foliage  plants,  of  value  for 
house  decoration.  Propagate  by 
"  ringing,"  that  is,  mossing  the  tops, 
and  removing  them  when  rooted,  as 
with  Crotons.  Similar  culture  to  that 
advised  for  the  latter.  D.  amabilis, 
D.  Baptistii,  D.  sanderiana,  D.  gol- 
dieana,  D.  Lord  Wolseley,  D.  ignea, 
D.  The  Sirdar,  D.  Eckhautei,  &c. 

A  valuable  winter-flowering  plant;  flowers 
bright  blue,  and  freely  produced  over 
a  long  period.  Easily  propagated 
from  cuttings  in  spring  ;  loamy  soil. 

Charming  bulbous  plant,  bearing  ra- 
cemes of  pure  white  pendulous  flowers 
often  two  and  three  times  in  one  year. 
Several  bulbs  (four  or  five)  should  be 
placed  in  a  xo-inch  pot,  and,  until 
the  pot  becomes  full  of  roots,  water 
sparingly.  When  well  rooted  they 
enjoy  plenty  of  manure  water,  and 
must  be  well  shaded  to  preserve  the 
dark  green  of  the  leaves. 

Dwarf,  semi-creeping  plants,  with  beauti- 
fully marked  leaves ;  very  useful  for 
furnishing  an  edging  to  the  stove 
staging.  F.  argyroneura  (silver 
leaved)  and  F.  Verschaffeltii  (red 
veined  leaves)  are  the  two  best. 

Shrubs  bearing  deliciously-scented  pure 
white  flowers.  Propagate  by  cuttings 
taken  with  a  heel  of  the  old  wood 
attached,  in  January.  Succeed  best 
when  planted  in  a  well-drained  bed 
of  loam  containing  plenty  of  coarse 
sand.  A  lower  temperature  is  essen- 
tial when  growth  is  finished.  Young 
plants  flower  more  freely  than  old  ones. 

A  niberous  climber,  producing  curious 
showy  flowers  of  a  rich  orange  and 
red,  and  prettily  crisped.  Little 
water  is  required  until  the  annual 
growths  are  fairly  vigorous.  After 
the  flowers  fade,  gradually  withhold 
water,  and  keep  the  soil  quite  dry  in 
winter. 

Indispensable  tuberous  flowering  plants. 
The  tubers  are  placed  singly  in 
well -drained  4$  or  6 -inch  pots, 
according  to  their  size,  in  a  rich, 
leafy  soil,  in  January  and  Febru- 
ary. Plenty  of  water  is  necessary 
when  the  plants  are  well  rooted. 
Gradually  dry  off  when  the  flowers 
are  over,  and  winter  in  a  warm  house, 
turning  the  pots  on  their  sides. 
Handle  very  carefully,  as  the  leaves 
break  easily. 

This  plant  has  beautifully  variegated 
leaves,  pale  green  and  creamy  white. 
Likes  a  soil  not  too  rich,  and  must 


604 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


NAME. 

SEASON  OF 
FLOWERING. 

REMARKS. 

Maranta  arundinacea 

be  carefully  watered.      Give  a  light 

Nepenthes 

position.     Propagated  by  offshoots. 
This    is  the    Pitcher    plant,    of  which 

there  are  many  species  and  varieties. 

They  are  more  quaintly  curious  than 

beautiful.     Give  them  a  position  near 

the  glass.     Basket  culture  is  neces- 

sary,  and   a  compost  of  sphagnum 

moss  and  peat  and  plenty  of  drain- 

age.     N.   dicksoniana,    N.   masters- 

iana,  N.  mixta,  N.  Curtisii  superba, 

N.  Morganiae,  are  some  of  the  best. 

Pancratium  fragrans 

JSummer 

A  bulbous  plant,  producing  sweetly-scen- 

ted,  beautiful  white  flowers,   which, 

however,  do  not  last  long.     Of  easy 

culture  in  good  loam  made  porous  by 

the  addition  of  silver  sand.     Do  not 

re-pot  more  than  is  absolutely  neces- 

sary ;    rather  give  stimulants  in  the 

Pandanus  Veitchi 

way  of  farmyard  or  artificial  manures. 
This  is  a  useful,  ornamental-leaved  plant, 

and  very  suitable  for  house  decora- 

tion.     Propagated    by  offsets,    pro- 

duced naturally.     Use  soil  composed 

of  half  peat  and  half  loam. 

Poinsettia  pulcherrima 

Early  Winter 

Valuable  for  its  brilliant  scarlet  bracts 

during  winter  ;   these  remain  in  full 

beauty  for  many  weeks.     Propagated 

by  cuttings  inserted  in  early  spring  ; 

place  in  small  pots    plunged    in   a 

mild  hot-bed.     Water  very  carefully 

throughout,  or  the  bottom  leaves  will 

be  lost.     After  the  bracts  are  over, 

gradually   withhold    water,  keeping 

quite  dry  in  winter.     Plenty  of  cut- 

tings may  be  had  when  the  old  plants 

Solanum  Wendlandi 

Summer 

break  into  growth  in  the  spring. 
A  shrubby  climber,  producing  bunches 

of  lovely  lilac-blue  flowers  in  great 

profusion.    Prune  after  flowering,  and 
keep  rather  dry  in  winter, 

Stephanotis  floribunda 

Early  Summer 

A  climber  that  should  be  in  every  col- 

lection of   stove    plants,   producing 

numerous  clusters  of  beautiful,  waxy- 
white,  sweetly-scented  flowers.     Pro- 

pagate by  cuttings  of  previous  year's 

wood,  inserted  in  spring.    It  succeeds 

best  planted  out  in  a  well-drained  bed 

of  loam. 

Torenia  Fournieri  and  T. 

Summer 

Charming  summer-flowering  plants.     T. 

asiatica 

Fournieri  has  hooded  flowers,  pale 

violet  and  yellow  ;  T.  asiatica  similar 

shaped  blooms  of  blue  and  violet. 

There  is  also  a  light-coloured  variety 
of   T.   Fournieri.      They  are  easily 

raised    from  seed  sown    in   spring. 

The  seedlings  should  be  pricked  out 

into  6-inch  pots,  placing  them  about 

an  inch  apart.    Give  them  a  light, 

sandy  soil,  consisting  of  loam   and 

leaf  mould. 

v- 

1 

USEFUL   TABLES 


605 


FRUIT 
DESSERT   APPLES 

For  cultitral  hints  see  pages  420-427 


VARIETY. 

SEASON. 

STOCK. 

REMARKS. 

Irish  Peach 

August 

Paradise 

A  beautiful  fruit  ;  one  of  the 

best    early    apples  ;    must 

be   eaten    soon  after  it   is 

gathered. 

Devonshire  Quarrenden     . 

August 

Paradise 

A    very   hardy  variety  ;    fruit 

or  Crab 

rather  small,  dark  red  ;  the 

tree  bears  well  either  as  a 

pyramid  or  as  a  standard. 

Beauty  of  Bath  . 

August 

Paradise 

A    fine  dessert  variety;  good 

quality  ;  free  cropper. 

Worcester  Pear  main  . 

September 

Paradise 

Handsome  fruit  of  fair  quality  ; 

or  Crab 

a  heavy  cropper  ;  succeeds 

well  in  orchards. 

James  Grieve 

September 

Paradise 

Medium    size  ;    fine    flavour  ; 

and  October 

good  bearer. 

Margil        .... 

November 

Paradise 

A     finely  -  flavoured      dessert 

to 

apple,     somewhat     small  ; 

January 

does   not  grow  vigorously, 

therefore  suitable  for  espa- 

liers and  dwarf  bushes. 

Ribston  Pippin  . 

November 

Paradise 

A  splendid  dessert  apple;  some- 

to 

what  liable  to  canker,  how- 

January 

ever,  in  soil  that  is  wet. 

King  of  the  Pippins   . 

November 

Paradise 

An  excellent  fruit,  with  rather 

to 

an  acid  flavour;  a  prolific 

January 

bearer. 

Adam's  Pearmain 

December 

Paradise 

Medium  -  sized      fruit,      well 

and 

flavoured  ;    the    tree    is    a 

January 

good  bearer. 

Cox's  Orange  Pippin  . 

November 

Paradise 

Generally   recognised    as    the 

to 

best-flavoured  apple  in  cul- 

January 

tivation  ;  bears  well  either 

as  a  standard  or  pyramid. 

Blenheim  Orange 

November 

Paradise 

A     valuable    apple,     suitable 

to 

either  for  dessert  or  cook- 

January 

ing  ;  forms  a  fine  standard 

tree    on    the    Crab    stock, 

but  does  not  then  bear  well 

when  young  ;  on  the  Para- 

dise it  bears  earlier. 

Allington  Pippin 

November 
to  February 

Paradise 
or  Crab 

A  splendid  dessert  apple;  de- 
licious flavour  ;  bears  well. 

Cockle  Pippin    .      ~.y      *• 

February  to 

Paradise 

A  valuable  late  apple  of  ex- 

April 

or  Crab 

cellent  flavour. 

Sturmer  Pippin  . 

March  to 

Paradise 

Another    very    valuable    late 

May 

or  Crab 

apple  ;    delicious    flavour  ; 

prolific  bearer. 

Scarlet  Nonpareil       .    •;'•> 

December 

Paradise 

Medium  ;     round  ;     greenish- 

to 

yellow  ;    rich  and  juicy  ;  a 

March 

free  bearer. 

Newtown  Pippin        .        ,. 

December 

Paradise 

Medium  sized  ;  round  ;  green  ; 

to 

juicy  ;     requires    a    warm 

April 

position. 

Lord  Burghley  .         .      .;•;»_ 

February 

Paradise 

Medium     to     large  ;     green  ; 

to  May 

russet-bronze  ;    juicy,    rich 

pine  flavour. 

606  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

COOKING   APPLES 


VARIETY. 

SEASON. 

STOCK. 

REMARKS. 

Frogmore  Prolific 

September 

Crab  or 

An    excellent  cooking  apple  ; 

and 

Paradise 

bears  well  as  a  standard  or 

October 

pyramid  ;  white  juicy  flesh  ; 

large. 

Lord  Grosvenor 

August  and 

Crab  or 

Large  ;      a      splendid      early 

September 

Paradise 

apple,  very  prolific. 

Ecklinville 

September 

Crab  or 

A    very    good    apple  ;    heavy 

and 

Paradise 

bearer  ;    does  well   in   any 

October 

form,     particularly     as     a 
pyramid. 

Peasgood's  Nonsuch 

October 

Paradise 

Very    large    and     extremely 

and 

or  Crab 

handsome  ;    good    flavour, 

November 

and  fairly  prolific. 

Warner's  King  . 

October 

Paradise 

A  hardy  and  prolific  variety  ; 

to 

large,      excellent     kitchen 

December 

apple. 

Cox's  Pomona  . 

October  and 

Paradise 

Large,     handsome     fruit  ;     a 

November 

valuable  kitchen  variety. 

Lane's  Prince  Albert  . 

October 

Paradise 

A     valuable,    large    pale-col- 

to 

oured    apple  ;    as    a   bush 

February 

bears  particularly  well. 

Sandringham 

December 
to 

Paradise 
or  Crab 

One  of  the  best  kitchen  apples  ; 
large  and  handsome  ;  bears 

March 

well  in  either  stock. 

Wellington       (Dumelow  s 

November 

Paradise 

A      very      valuable      cooking 

Seedling) 

to 

or  Crab 

apple;   keeps   well,  and  is 

March 

an  abundant  bearer. 

Bramley's  Seedling    . 

January  to 

Paradise 

Large  and  excellent  late  cook- 

March 

ing  apple. 

Mere  de  Manage 

December 

Paradise 

Finely   coloured   fruit  ;    bears 

to  March 

well  as  a  small  bush. 

Cellini         .... 

October 

Paradise 

Large,    even  ;    green  -  yellow, 

to 

or  Crab 

streaked  ;  good  flavour  ;  free 

November 

bearer. 

Grenadier  .... 

October  to 

Paradise 

Large,    flat  ;     green  -  yellow  ; 

November 

or  Crab 

very  juicy  ;  free  bearer. 

Annie  Elizabeth 

December 

Paradise 

Large,  conical,  angular;  green, 

to 

or  Crab 

bronze-flushed  ;  crisp,  brisk 

January 

flavour  ;  very  reliable. 

Bismarck   .... 

October 

Paradise 

Very  large  ;  green,  rose  mark- 

to 

or  Crab 

ings  ;    vigorous    and    free 

December 

bearing. 

Alfriston 

November 

Paradise 

Large,  angular;  green  streaked 

to 

or  Crab 

with  russet  ;  sugary,  crisp  ; 

April 

free  bearing  ;  a  grand  late 

variety. 

DESSERT  PEARS 

For  cultural  hints  see  pages  429-437 


VARIETY. 

SEASON. 

STOCK. 

REMARKS. 

Doyenne  d'Et6  .     ,:..;• 

July  and 
August 

Quince 

Small,  very  good  early  pear  ; 
must  be  eaten  as  soon  as 
ripe  ;  will  not  keep. 

DESSERT   PEARS 


607 


VARIETY. 

SEASON.    ;   STOCK. 

REMARKS. 

Citron  des  Cannes     . 

July  and         Quince 

A     small,     juicy,     and    well- 

August 

flavoured    early   pear   that 

will  not  keep  when  ripe. 

Beurre"  Giffard    . 

August          Quince 

Medium  size  ;  an  excellent  late 

summer  fruit. 

Jargonelle  .... 

August 

Quince 

Large  ;   of  rich  flavour  ;   suc- 

ceeds well  as  a  standard  ; 

does  not  keep. 

William's  Bon  Chretien     . 

September 

Quince 

A  delicious  pear,  but  will  not 

Fondante  d'Automne 

September 
and 

Quince  or 
Pear 

keep  long  when  ripe. 
A    deliriously-flavoured   pear, 
with    white,    tender,  juicy 

October 

flesh. 

Louise  Bonne  of  Jersey 

September 

Quince 

A  very  fine  fruit  of  excellent 

and 

flavour  ;  bears  well  in  any 

October 

form. 

Marie  Louise 

October 

Should 

Richly  flavoured,  though  some- 

and 

be  double 

what  uncertain  bearer  ;  does 

November 

grafted 

well  against  a  wall. 

Doyenne"  du  Cornice  . 

November 

Quince 

By  many  considered  to  be  the 

and 

best    pear    in    cultivation  ; 

December 

fruit    large,    pale    yellow  ; 

flesh  very  rich  and  sweet. 

Glou  Morceau    . 

December 

Quince 

A  late  pear  of  excellent  flavour  ; 
grows  well  on  the  Quince  ; 

should  have  wall  protection 

if  possible,  or  a  sheltered 

situation. 

Winter  Nelis     . 

December 

Quince 

A  somewhat  small  fruit,  but 

and 

finely  flavoured;  a  very  valu- 

January 

able  late  variety. 

Thompson's 

November 

Pear 

Generally  considered  to  be  the 

best-flavoured  pear  in  culti- 

vation;   medium    size,    of 

rather  uneven  shape;   ex- 

quisite flavour. 

Ne  Plus  Meuris          .  >R  I 

January 
and 

Quince 

A  valuable  late  variety  ;   me- 
dium-sized fruit  of  first-rate 

February 

quality. 

Olivier  de  Serres        .    M   . 

February 
and  March 

Quince 

An  excellent  late  pear;  medium 
sized  ;  delicious  fruit  ;  bears 

well. 

Easter  Beurre"     .         .       > 

January  to 

Pear  or 

Large,  juicy  fruit,  rich  flavour  ; 

March 

Quince 

the  tree  is  hardy  and  bears 

well  on  either  stock. 

Souvenir  du  Congres          ^ 

August  to 

Quince 

Very    large,    obovate  ;    juicy, 

Devondean         .                  , 

September 
October  to 

Quince 

melting,  free. 
Large,  long  pyriform  ;  melting, 

November 

sweet  ;  very  handsome,  re- 

liable. 

Emile  d'Heyst  .        *        * 

October  to 
November 

Quince 

Medium  size,  pyriform  ;  melt- 
ing, sugary  ;  a  great  bearer. 

Charles  Ernest  . 

October  to 

Quince 

Very  large  ;  pale  yellow  ;  hand- 

November 

|        some,  rich  flavour. 

Beurre"  Diel        .        .        ; 

October  to 

Quince      Large,  obovate;    sugary  and 

December 

aromatic.      A  free-beanng 

variety. 

608  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

COOKING   PEARS 


VARIETY. 

SEASON. 

STOCK. 

REMARKS. 

Catillac      .... 

December 
to  April 

Quince 

Very    large     fruit,     therefore 
should  be  grown  as  a  dwarf, 

and  in  a  somewhat  sheltered 

position  ;  the  best  for  culi- 

nary  purposes. 

Uvedale's  St.  Germain 

January  to 
April 

Quince       Exceedingly  large  fruit  ;    this 
varietysucceeds  particularly 

well  as  a  cordon  ;    a  good 

stewmg  pear. 

Vicar  of  Winkfield     . 

November 

Pear  or 

Fruit  long,  narrow;  does  well 

to 

Quince 

as    a    pyramid  ;     of   good 

January 

flavour. 

Verulam     .... 

January  to 

Quince 

Large,  obovate;  very  prolific. 

March 

Bellissime  d'Hiver 

November 

Quince 

Large,  sweet,  free  from  gritti- 

to  April 

or  Pear 

ness  ;  makes  a  fine  tree  as 

a  pyramid. 

DESSERT  PLUMS 

For  cultural  hints  see  page  428 


VARIETY. 

SEASON. 

STOCK. 

REMARKS. 

River's  Early 

July 

Common 

A  valuable  early  purple  plum. 

Plum 

Denniston's  Superb    . 

August 

Common 
Plum 

Yellowish    green    fruit  ;    over 
medium  size  ;   of  splendid 

flavour  ;  one  of  the  best. 

Green  Gage 

August 

Mussel 

Preferred    by    many    to    any 

other  plum  ;  medium  size  ; 

rich  flavour. 

Jefferson     .... 

September 

Common 

Prolific  bearer  ;    a  most  deli- 

Plum 

cious    plum  ;    large,   oval  ; 

rich  golden  yellow,  with  red 

dots. 

Kirke's       .... 

September 

St.  Julian 

Dark  purple  ;  medium  size  ;  of 

excellent  flavour;  the  tree 

bears  well. 

Lawson's  Golden  Gage 

September 

Mussel 

A  highly-flavoured  fruit  ;  oval, 

medium  size  ;  deep  yellow, 

speckled  with  crimson. 

Reine  Claude  de  Bavay     . 

September 

Mussel 

A  deliciously-flavourcd  plum  ; 

roundish  ;  greenish  yellow  ; 

large. 

Transparent  Gage      . 

September 

Common 
Plum 

Rather  large;  greenish  yellow, 
marked  with  red;    one  of 

the  best. 

Coe's  Golden  Drop    . 

Late 

Mussel 

Large  fruit  of  splendid  flavour  ; 

September 

should  be  allowed  to  hang 

late. 

Ick  worth  Imperatrice 

October 

Common 

Purple  ;    rich    flavour  ;     must 

Plum 

hang  late  to  develop  its  full 

flavour. 

Nouvelle  de  Dorelle  . 

October 

Mussel 

Dark   purple  ;    a  very  sweet, 

late  plum. 

Ruling's  Superb 

August 

Common 

Large  ;  greenish  yellow  ;  good 

Plum 

flavour. 

Bryanston  Gage 

September 
to  October 

Common 
Plum 

Large;   green,  blotched  red; 
rich  flavour. 

USEFUL  TABLES 

COOKING   PLUMS 


609 


VARIETY. 

SEASON. 

STOCK. 

REMARKS. 

Duke  of  Edinburgh    . 

August 

Mussel 

Good  bearer  ;  large  fruit  ;  light 

purple  colour. 

Pond's  Seedling 

September 

Common 

A  large  dark  red  plum,  valu- 

Washington 

September 

Plum 
Common 

able  for  cooking  purposes. 
An   excellent    culinary   plum, 

Plum 

vigorous  grower,  and  good 

bearer  ;     large,    handsome 

fruits  ;     yellow,    with    red 

markings. 

Magnum  Bonum  (red  and 

September 

Common 

Large  and  very  useful  cooking 

white) 

Plum 

varieties. 

Victoria      .... 

September 

Common 

Very    heavy    bearer  ;     bright 

Plum 

red  ;    one  of  the  best  culi- 

nary plums. 

Early  Prolific 

July  to 

Common 

Medium   size  ;    deep    purple  ; 

August 

Plum 

sweet  ;  a  great  bearer. 

Per  shore     .... 

August 

Common 

Medium  size  ;  juicy  ;  free  bear- 

Plum 

ing. 

The  Czar   .... 

August 

Common 

Very  large;  purple;  free  bearer; 

Plum 

does   not   crack,   and  suc- 

ceeds well  on  a  north  wall. 

PEACHES 

For  cultural  hints  seepage  474 


VARIETY. 

SEASON. 

REMARKS. 

Waterloo    . 

July 

A    valuable    early    variety,    well 

flavoured. 

Hale's  Early 

Early  August 

A  handsome  early  peach. 

Dymond      .... 

August 

An  excellent  fruit,   large,  and   of 

fine  flavour. 

Grosse  Mignonne 
Stirling  Castle     . 

Early  September 
September 

Large  ;  one  of  the  best  peaches. 
By   many    considered    to    be    the 

sweetest  of  all  peaches  ;  richly 

flavoured  ;  forces  well. 

Princess  of  Wales        .    -    . 

Late  September 

A    handsome    fruit  ;     one    of    the 

best. 

Violette  Hative  . 

September 

A  rather  large  fruit;  finely  flavoured; 

prolific  bearer. 

Walburton  Admirable 

October 

Very  large,  pale  colour;    a  good 
late  peach. 

Sea  Eagle  .        . 

Late  September 

A  finely-flavoured  large  late  peach. 

Salwey         .... 

October 

An    excellent    late    peach,    with 

yellow  flesh. 

Royal  George      .         .         s 

August  to 

Large  ;  highly  coloured  ;  first-class 

September 

in  every  way. 

Lord  Palmerston         .        . 

September 

Large  ;  pale  yellow  flesh  ;  melting 

and  sweet. 

Exquisite    . 

September 

Very  large  ;  sweet,  juicy,  vinous. 

2  Q 


6 io  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

NECTARINES 


VARIETY. 

SEASON. 

REMARKS. 

Early  Rivers 

Early  August 

A  splendid  early  nectarine  of  first- 

class  flavour  ;  forces  very  well. 

Elruge          .... 

Late  August 

Rather  small  ;  handsome  fruit  ;  the 

tree  is  a  prolific  bearer. 

Lord  Napier 

Early  August 

Large,  delicious  nectarine  ;    forces 

well. 

Pine  Apple  .... 

Early  September 

A  very  handsome  fruit,  with  yellow 

flesh,  and  of  good  flavour. 

Victoria        .... 

Late  September 

A  fine   late   variety  ;    large  ;    pale 

coloured  ;  bears  remarkably  well. 

Balgowan     .... 

End  of  August 

Very  large  ;  high  flavour  ;  hardy. 

Humboldt    .... 

Early  in  September 

Large,  sweet,  free  ;  very  reliable. 

Spenser        .... 

September 

Very  large  ;  richly  flavoured  ;  hand- 

some appearance. 

All  the  above  peaches  and  nectarines  are  of  good  constitution  and  standard  varieties. 

CHERRIES 

For  c^tltural  hints  see  page  427 


VARIETY. 

SEASON. 

REMARKS. 

Early  Rivers 

June 

A  sweet  and  early  cherry  ;  black. 

Belle  d'  Orleans    . 

June 

Rich    flavour  ;     of  a  pale    yellow 



colour. 

May  Duke  .        .        .        . 

July 

One  of  the  best  cherries  ;    rather 

acid  flavour  ;   dark  red  colour  ; 

an  abundant  bearer. 

Frogmore  Early  Bigarreau  . 

Early  July 

A  large,  juicy  fruit  ;  yellow,  marked  . 

with  red  ;  prolific. 

Knight's  Early  Black  .      .  . 

Late  June 

A  large,  black,  juicy  fruit  ;   grows 

and  bears  well. 

Governor  Wood  . 

July 

One  of  the  most  delicious  cherries  ; 

pale  colour. 

Late  Duke  .... 

Late  August 

A  good  late  variety  ;  somewhat  acid 

flavour. 

Black  Heart         .      '  .,  •     ..', 

July 

Medium  size  ;  black-purple;  juicy, 

sweet,  free. 

Noble  

September 

Large  ;  flesh  firm  ;  rich  flavour. 

Morello        .        .       -.-*.• 

August 

Large  ;    very  dark  red  ;    the  best 

cherry  for  cooking  ;  does  parti- 

cularly well  against  a  north  wall. 

STRAWBERRIES 

For  cultural  hints  see  pages  455-462 


VARIETY. 

SEASON. 

REMARKS. 

Keen's  Seedling  .     ,   , 
La  Grosse  Sucree 

Early 
Early 

Dark   colour  ;    medium  size  ;   pro- 
lific ;  sweet. 
An  excellent  variety  ;  dark,  shining 
red  ;   splendid  flavour  ;    one  of 
the  best. 

STRAWBERRIES 


611 


VARIETY. 

SEASON.                               REMARKS. 

Royal  Sovereign  . 

Early 

A  large,  handsome,  scarlet  fruit,  of 

good  flavour  ;    the  best  for  pot 

culture. 

Laxton's  Latest  . 

Late 

Large,    dark    fruits    of    excellent 

The  Laxton 

Mid-season 

quality. 
A    free-fruiting    variety    of    high 

merit. 

Sir  Joseph  Paxton 

Early 

A  variety  of  high  merit  ;  the  fruits 

are  good  for  packing,  being  very 

firm. 

The  Bedford 
British  Queen 

Mid-season 
Mid-season 

Very  heavy  cropper  of  good  quality. 
Generally  considered  to  be  the  best- 

flavoured  strawberry  in  cultiva- 

tion ;   somewhat  tender  consti- 

tution and  shy-fruiting. 

Countess      .... 

Mid-season 

A  large  conical-shaped  fruit  ;  crim- 

son ;  rich  flavour. 

Veitch's  Perfection 

Late 

Large  ;    very  sweet  ;  of  good  con- 

stitution. 

Waterloo     .... 

Late 

An    excellent    late    variety  ;    very 

dark,  almost  black  when  fully 

ripe  ;  rich  flavour. 

Dr.  Hogg    .... 

Late 

Large  ;    of  as  delicious  a  flavour 

as  British  Queen,  and  of  more 

vigorous  constitution. 

GOOSEBERRIES 

For  cultural  hints  see  pages  462-467 


VARIETY. 

SEASON. 

REMARKS. 

Whinham's  Industry  . 

Mid-season 

Large  ;   of  fair  flavour  ;    good  for 

picking  green. 

Speedwell    .        .         . 

Early 

Fine  flavour  ;  large  ;  a  good  exhi- 

bition variety. 

Warrington 

Late 

Above    medium    size  ;    very    fine 

flavour;     good    cropper;     and 

valuable    for    its    long-keeping 

Red  Champagne         .    "    . 

Mid-season 

properties. 
Medium   size;    good  colour;    up- 
right habit  ;  an  excellent  bearer  ; 

of  first-rate  flavour. 

Langley  Beauty  .        , 

Mid-season 

A  variety  of  great  excellence  ;  fruit 
large,  of  fine  flavour  and  appear- 

ance ;  free  habit. 

Pretty  Boy  .        .'       «        . 

Late 

A  rounded  variety  ;  bears  well  ;  is 

of   good    flavour;    and    hangs 

until  late  in  the  season. 

Keepsake    .... 

Early 

Large  ;  of  fine  flavour  ;  very  useful, 
as  the  fruit  is  large  enough  to 

thin  for  tarts  early  in  the  season. 

Telegraph    .... 

Late 

Very  large  ;  well  flavoured  ;    good 
bearer;  an  exhibition  variety. 

Whitesmith 

Late 

Medium  size  ;  a  very  free  bearer  ; 

fine  flavour. 

Berry's  Early  Kent      .         .  ; 
Langley  Green    .     -  .        . 
Crown  Bob  .         .        .        .  ! 
Hedgehog   .        .         .        . 

Early 
Medium  Early 
Early 
Mid-season 

A  first-rate  variety  ;  large  berries. 
Very  sweet  ;  hairy  ;  crops  freely. 
Bright  red  ;  hairy  ;  good  flavour. 
Rich  flavour  ;  hairy  ;  thin  skin. 

6l2 


GARDENING    FOR   BEGINNERS 


RASPBERRIES 

For  cultural  hints  see  page  477 


VARIETY. 


REMARKS. 


Superlative  . 

Hornet 

Northumberland  Fillbasket 

Baumforth's  Seedling  . 
Yellow  Antwerp    . 
November  Abundance 


Very  large ;    of  excellent  flavour ;    a  strong  grower, 

succeeding  in  soils  where  other  varieties  often  fail ; 

valuable  from  its  often  producing  a  second  crop 

late  in  summer  and  early  autumn. 
Large  ;  of  very  fine  flavour  ;  a  good  variety  in  rich  soil. 
Large ;    well  flavoured ;    free  growing ;    suitable  for 

preserving. 
Large  ;  good  flavour  ;  bears  well,  but  requires  a  good 

soil. 
Generally  considered  to  be  the  best   yellow ;    large ; 

fine  flavour. 
Deep  red  ;  large  ;  good  flavour  ;  ripens  in  November. 


AUTUMN    FRUITING   RASPBERRIES 


VARIETY. 


REMARKS. 


Belle  de  Fontenay 
October  Yellow    . 


Late  ;  dark  red  ;  very  free  ;  bears  well. 
Excellent  flavour  ;  but  requires  a  fine  autumn  to  ripen 
well. 


BLACK   CURRANTS 

For  cultural  hints  see  page  467 


VARIETY. 

SEASON. 

REMARKS. 

Lee's  Prolific 

Rather  early 

Large  ;  very  sweet  and  good  ;  one 

of  the  best. 

Black  Naples        . 

Rather  early 

Very  large   and   sweet  ;    a    good 

bearer. 

Carter's  Champion 

Maincrop 

Very  large  ;    good   flavour  ;    and 
keeps  well. 

Ogden's       .... 

Maincrop 

Very  large  and  good  ;    succeeds 
where  others  fail. 

Boskoop  Giant     .        . 

Early 

Very  large  ;    free  cropping  ;   free 

from  bud-mite. 

WHITE   CURRANTS 


VARIETY. 

SEASON. 

REMARKS. 

White  Dutch 
Transparent  Versailles 

Maincrop 
Late 

Berries  and  bunches  long;   good 
flavour  ;  good  bearer. 
Very  fine  flavour  ;  large  and  good. 

USEFUL  TABLES 

RED    CURRANTS 


6i3 


VARIETY. 

SEASON. 

REMARKS. 

Cherry          .... 

Early 

Very  large  ;  extra  fine. 

Red  Dutch  .... 

Mid-season 

Large  ;  very  heavy  bearer. 

Mammoth     .... 

Late 

Very  large  and  good. 

La  Constante 

Late 

Large  ;  good  flavour  ;  bears  freely  ; 

the    fruits    will    hang   on   the 

bushes  until  late  autumn. 

Raby  Castle 

Mid-season 

Large    berries;    large    trusses   or 

to  late 

bunches  ;  hangs  well. 

VEGETABLES 


WHAT  TO  Sow. 

DATES  FOR 
SOWING. 

VARIETIES. 

SEASON. 

Asparagus         .         . 

April 

Giant 

April  to  July 

,,           to  plant  . 

March  or  April 

Conover's  Colossal 

it 

Artichoke 

M 

1  t 

,,          to  plant    . 

May 

Globe 

June  to  October 

Jerusalem 

March  or  April 

White  (Sutton)  Old  Red 

October  to  April 

Beans,  dwarf    . 

April 

Progress  or  Ne  Plus  Ultra 

June 

May,  early 

Monster  Negro 

End  June  &  July 

,>             •  • 

May 

Magnum  Bonum 

July 

•    .        . 

June 

Canadian  Wonder 

August 

M 

July 

Syon  House 

September 

(Scarlet  Emperor,  Tender") 

Beans,  runner  . 

May  or  June 

<    and  True,  Hackwood,  V 

July  to  October 

(    Park  Success.                ) 

Beans,  broad    . 

February 

Early  Green  Longpod 

June 

rj 

Beck's  Green  Gem 

March 

Monarch 

July 

_ 

April 

Windsor 

August 

Broccoli   .         .        . 

March 

Self-Protecting 
Michaelmas  White 

October 
November 

_ 

April 

Maincrop 

Jan.  and  Feb. 

•;"  .• 

May 

Model  or  Late  Queen 

March  and  April 

. 

FJ 

June  Monarch 

May 

. 

M 

June  King 

May  and  June 

Brussels  Sprouts 

March  or  April 

Paragon 

Oct.  to  Dec. 

( 

Exhibition 

Dec.  to  March 

April 

Scrymger's  Giant 

Nov.  to  March 

Beet          . 

(i 

Crimson  Ball  or  Globe 

June  to  October 

May 

Nutting's  Dwarf  Red 
Cheltenham  Green  Top 

Oct.  to  Dec. 
Dec.  to  April 

Borecole  or  Kale 

April 

Dwarf  Curled 

Oct.  to  Dec. 

Cottager's,  or  Late  Scotch 

Dec.  to  March 

Read's  Hearting 

Dec.  to  April 

Cabbage  .        .       •  » 

February 

Sutton's  Maincrop 

July 

614 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


WHAT  TO  Sow. 

DATES  FOR 
SOWING. 

VARIETIES. 

SEASON. 

Cabbage 

March 

Matchless 

August 

•  I 

July 

Harbinger 

April 

. 

July  or  August 

Rosette  Colewort 

Oct.  to  Jan. 

Carrots 

March 

Early  Nantes 

June 

M 

Early  Gem 

July 

April 

Matchless  or  Model 

July  to  October 

t 

Intermediate 

Sept.  to  Jan. 

t 

July 

Early  Horn  or  Others 

Spring 

Cauliflowers     . 

Feb.  (in  frames) 

Snowball  or  Forcing 

June 

March  or  April 
April 

Pearl  or  Favourite 
Veitch's  Autumn  Giant 

July  and  August 
Oct.  to  March 

August  or  Sept. 

Walcheren  or  Early  London 

May  and  June 

Celery 

March 

Early  White  or  Red 

October 

April 

Major  Clarke's 

December 

. 

M 

Standard  Bearer 

March 

B 

(i 

Sulham  Prize  Pink 

Nov.  to  April 

Cucumber 

February 

Telegraph 

April 

,  ,  for  framework 

March 

Matchless 

May 

April 

Market  Favourite 

Summer 

,,  outside  . 

M 

Long  Ridge 

t 

Stockwood  Ridge 

August  to  Sept. 

Endive     . 

June 

Green  Curled 

October 

July 

Batavian 

Winter 

Leeks       !        '.        ! 

Feb.  or  March 

Lyon  or  Musselburgh 

M 

Lettuce  Cos     . 

Feb.  to  Sept. 

In  Variety 

May  to  Dec. 

Cabbage     . 

t, 

In  Variety  ;  see  Notes 

April  to  April 

Onions 

March  or  earlier 

In  Variety 

Aug.  to  April 

,  ,    winter  varieties 

Aug.  to  Sept. 

Giant  Rocca  or  Spanish 

May  to  July 

Parsley     . 

Mar.,  May,  July 

Garnishing 

All  year 

Parsnip    . 
Rhubarb  .         .        .-•  : 

Feb.  to  April 
March  or  April 

Student  or  Hollow  Crowned 
Early  Albert 

October  to  April 
March 

,,         to  plant     . 

Nov.  to  March 

Champagne 

April  to  June 

Radish     . 

Feb.  to  April 

Early  Sorts 

ii           ii 

ii 

May  or  June 

Late  Varieties 

Summer 

Peas 

February 

Chelsea  Gem 

May 

• 

March 

Daisy  or  Stratagem 

June 

. 

April 

Bountiful  or  Gradus 

July 

May 

Ne  Plus  Ultra 

Aug.  to  Oct. 

. 

M 

Centenary 

,  , 

. 

May  or  June 

Marrow  Varieties 

Aug.  and  Sept. 

July 

Early  Kinds,  Dwarf 

October 

Savoy  Cabbage 

March 
April  or  May 

Green  Curled 
(  Drumhead  or  New  Gem  ) 
\                  Savoy                 J 

September 
Winter 

Seakale     . 

March  or  April 

Purple  or  White 

,, 

,,       to  plant 

April 

M 

,  , 

Spinach    . 

March 

Victoria 

May 

April  or  May 

Longstanding 

June 

>i          .         '        • 

August 

The  Carter 

Spring 

Tomatoes,       under  ) 
glass   .'.'-.'      | 

January 

Conference  or  Ham  Green 

Summer 

Jan.  to  March 

Sunrise 

(  Summer  and 
\       Autumn 

March 

Duke  of  York 

Autumn 

,,       for    open  ) 
ground        .         ) 

,, 

Laxton's  Early 

July 

Turnips    .     -    .        ... 

February 

Early  Milan 

May 

•"'"• 

March 

Snowball 

June 

... 

June 

Veitch's  Globe 

Autumn 

USEFUL   TABLES 


615 


WHAT  TO  Sow. 

DATES  FOR 
SOWING. 

VARIETIES. 

SEASON. 

Turnips   . 

August 

Veitch's  or  Golden  Globe 

Winter 

Vegetable  Marrows  . 

April  (in  frames) 

Early  Albert 

June 

> 

May 

Long  Wh.te 

July 

t 

June 

Bush  or  Custard 

August 

Herbs       . 

March  to  May 

In  Variety 

,  , 

Potatoes  . 

Feb.  (probable) 

Midlothian  Early 

May  and  June 

» 

March 

King  Edward 

July  to  Nov. 

>i 

n 

The  Factor 

July  to  Spring 

i, 

,, 

(  Ninety  Fold  or  Ashleaf,  1 
(               in  variety               [ 

May  to  June 

,, 

April 

j  Maincrop    Varieties   or  ) 
\        Late  Up  to  Date        j 

July  to  October 

„ 

" 

Dover  Castle,  Royalty 

Winter  to  Spring 

USEFUL   HINTS 

Bulbs  after  Flowering.—  Bulbs  that  have  been  forced  or  grown  in  water,  methods 
of  treatment  that  are  somewhat  against  their  nature,  cannot  be  depended  upon  to 
flower  again  the  following  year.  If  it  is  thought  worth  while  to  keep  them  at  all,  they 
will  have  to  be  nursed  into  vigour  by  being  planted  in  a  warm  aspect  in  well-drained 
soil,  and  left  for  a  year  to  recover,  after  which  they  may  be  used  again,  though  they  may 
not  be  so  good  as  properly-grown  Dutch  Bulbs,  which  are  now  so  cheap  that  it  is  hardly 
worth  while  to  practise  the  nursing  plan. 

Care  Of  Old  Trees. — Almost  every  garden  contains  one  or  more  veterans  which 
are  for  some  reason  precious  to  their  owners.  The  two  immediate  causes  of  pre- 
mature decay  are  starvation  at  the  root  and  injury  by  storms  and  disease.  Such  trees 
as  the  Beech  and  the  Horse  Chestnut,  that  root  close  to  the  surface  of  the  soil — 
quite  differently  to  the  Oak — may  often  be  invigorated  by  covering  the  ground  with  a 
few  inches  of  good  soil  or  short  manure.  Artificial  watering  during  long  drought,  pro- 
vided that  it  is  thoroughly  done,  is  another  great  help.  Trees  with  large  crowns  of 
branches  are  frequently  seen  thinly  furnished  with  foliage,  and  altogether  sickly  in  aspect, 
owing  to  unhealthy  or  insufficient  roots.  The  balance  between  top  and  bottom  has  been 
destroyed.  To  restore  it  in  some  measure,  the  top  growth  may  be  reduced  by  pruning 
and  shortening  branches  here  and  there,  wherever  it  can  be  done  without  spoiling  the 
appearance  of  the  tree.  This  demands  careful  judgment,  but  some  old  trees  in  a  sickly 
state  can  certainly  be  rejuvenated  in  this  way.  It  is  of  no  value  in  the  case  of  trees  with 
decayed  trunks,  nor  with  those,  like  our  Common  Oak,  which  will  not  break  from  old  wood. 
But  Elms,  Robinias,  and  Red  Oaks  are  amongst  those  that  respond  to  this  treatment. 
Old  trees  with  insecure  branches  can  often  be  preserved  from  mutilation  by  storms  if  the 
main  branches  are  fastened  together  or  to  the  trunk.  The  common  practice  of  putting 
an  iron  collar  round  the  branch  should  be  abandoned.  The  iron  prevents  the  natural 
expansion  of  the  branch,  and  ultimately  chokes  it.  A  better  way  is  to  use  a  strong  iron 
rod  with  a  plate  at  the  end,  and  instead  of  supporting  the  branch  by  encircling  it,  a  hole 
is  bored  right  through  the  centre  of  it,  through  which  the  rod  is  pushed  from  the  outer 
side.  In  this  way  the  weight  is  borne  by  the  iron  plate,  which  should,  by  removing  suffi- 
cient bark,  be  allowed  to  fit  close  in  to  the  wood.  New  bark  will  gradually  close  over 
and  hide  the  plate,  and  instead  of  an  ugly  iron  collar  cutting  into  the  wood,  the  only 
evidence  of  artificial  help  is  in  the  rod  coming  from  the  inner  side  of  the  branch.  It  is  im- 
portant that  branches  or  snags  that  have  to  be  removed  should  always  be  sawn  off  quite  close 
to  the  trunk  or  larger  branch  from  which  they  spring.  When  a  stump  even  no  more  than 
a  few  inches  is  left,  the  new  bark  and  wood  are  unable  to  close  over  it,  and  the  wood  ulti- 
mately decays  and  acts  as  a  conduit  for  moisture  and  fungoid  diseases.  A  coating  of 
liquid  tar  over  the  wound,  renewed  once  or  twice  until  the  new  bark  has  closed  over,  is  a 
perfect  protection  against  these  evils.  Trees  decayed  in  the  centre,  with  only  an  outer 
layer  of  healthy  wood,  are,  of  course,  doomed ;  but  by  filling  up  the  holes  in  the  early 
stages  of  decay,  and  thus  keeping  out  moisture,  their  term  of  life  can  often  be  lengthened 
by  many  years.  Holes  made  by  woodpeckers  can  sometimes  be  plugged  up  with  a  piece 
of  oak.  This,  if  left  on  a  level  with  the  bark,  will  often  enable  the  latter  to  close  over  the 
hole.  Large  holes  may  be  filled  with  cement,  or  even  built  up  with  bricks,  the  surface 
being  made  water-tight  and  tarred  over. 

Cleansing  Plants.— Whilst  every  one  recognises  that  as  soon  as  plants  of  any  de- 
scription become  infested  with  insects  they  must  be  made  clean,  it  is  not  so  generally 
understood  that  cleanliness  is  indispensable  to  the  health  and  growth  of  all  plants  even 
when  no  insects  are  present.  The  larger  the  leafage,  especially  of  plants  grown  under 
glass,  the  greater  their  breathing  area,  and  as  leaves  are  like  lungs,  constantly  giving  off 
gases  and  absorbing  others,  it  is  of  the  first  importance  to  keep  them  clean.  Outdoors, 
rains  or  heavy  syringings  will  generally  do  that.  Indoors,  because  the  culture  is  somewhat 
artificial,  there  is  greater  need  for  cleanliness.  Leaves  should  therefore  be  often  sponged 
or  syringed  to  free  them  from  dust  and  soot  or  other  dirt.  This  is  specially  necessary 
with  thick  leathery  leaves. 

616 


USEFUL   HINTS  617 

Coops  for  Winter  Protection.— The  late  Mr.  G.  F.  Wilson,  of  Wey bridge,  had  a 
most  useful  coop  for  protecting  winter  flowers,  especially  the  Christmas  Rose.  He  used 
to  mention  that  he  had  at  Wisley  a  place  which  suits  both  the  winter  and  Lent  Helle- 
bores : — "  Ours  are  planted  in  a  bank  at  the  side  of  a  ditch  facing  north,  shaded  by  a 
high  hedge  at  the  south  side  of  the  ditch.  The  soil  is  light  loam,  and  in  ordinary  years 
rather  moist.  Some  good  authorities  advocate  planting  in  the  full  sun.  Our  experiments 
have  gone  the  other  way.  Perhaps  it  is  a  question  of  stiffness  of  soil.  As  the  flowers 
when  out  have  often  hard  frosts  and  heavy  rain  to  contend  with,  glazed  lights  are  fre- 
quently recommended  to  protect  them.  My  object  in  this  note  is  to  recommend  coops, 
as  being  much  lighter  and  as  covering  larger  plants.  We  began  by  using  common  wicker 
hen-coops  covered  with  green  scrim,  but  after  a  time  the  wood  got  out  of  shape  and 
decayed,  so  iron  wire  was  substituted  for  the  skeleton.  If  these  coops  are  put  by  in  the 
summer,  if  not  in  use,  in  a  dry  place,  they  will  last  for  many  years.  After  the  Hellebores 
they  are  useful  for  Anemone  fulgens" 

Covering  for  Close  North  Fence.— Many  beginners  regard  the  north  aspect  as 
unsuitable  for  plants  in  general,  but  it  is  as  easy  to  plant  a  fence  with  a  north  exposure, 
and  to  make  it  beautiful  with  a  flowering  covering,  as  one  with  any  other  position ; 
indeed  some  plants,  by  no  means  the  hardiest,  such  as  Escallonia  and  Ceanothus,  will 
often  on  a  north  wall  or  fence  escape  that  vernal  danger  of  sun  on  frosty  stems  or  foliage 
that  so  often  kills  these  plants,  or  at  any  rate  cuts  them  to  the  ground  in  any  sunny  aspect 
other  than  westerly.  Any  of  the  Ayrshire  Roses  would  do  well,  and  the  common  pink 
China,  also  the  beautiful  and  long  blooming  hybrids  of  China  and  such  fine  rambling 
sorts  as  Penzance  Briars,  Mme.  Alfred  Carrier^,  and  Reine  Olga  de  Wurtemburg,  the 
grandest  of  roses  for  winter  foliage.  Wistaria  would  also  do,  and  the  Clematis  species, 
such  as  montana,  Flammula,  graveolens,  and  paniculata.  Jasminum  nudiflorum  is 
naturally  at  home  in  such  a  place.  The  Guelder  Rose,  trained  as  a  wall  or  fence  cover- 
ing, is  admirable ;  and  another  handsome  shrub  that  is  excellent  for  the  same  use  is 
Spircea  lindleyana,  all  the  prettier  if  Clematis  Flammula  runs  into  it.  The  Roses  named 
are — all  but  the  China  and  hybrids — strong  and  even  rampant  growers.  Reine  Olga 
will  throw  out  shoots  15  feet  long  in  the  year,  therefore  these  should  be  planted  a  good 
distance  apart.  When  the  fence  is  not  high,  say  about  5  feet,  the  Roses  must  be  trained 
down  and  are  all  the  better  for  it. 

Destroying  Wasps'  Nests.— The  simplest  and  most  certain  material  with  which  to 
destroy  wasps'  nests  is  cyanide  of  potassium.  A  very  small  quantity  of  this  may  be 
dropped  a  little  way  in  the  hoie  of  the  nest,  the  entrance  being  at  once  closed  with  a  piece 
of  turf.  Cartridges  of  gun  cotton,  dynamite,  or  other  similar  explosive,  with  lighted  fuse 
attached,  then  placed  in  the  hole,  will  generally  blow  the  nests  to  atoms.  One  may  use 
with  almost  equal  effect  ordinary  squibs  of  gunpowder,  brimstone,  or  saltpetre,  as  the 
smoke  being  enclosed  the  wasps  are  quickly  destroyed.  These  measures  should  be 
taken  at  night  when  the  wasps  are  in  the  nest.  Rag  soaked  in  tar  and  put  on  the  end  of 
the  stick  which  must  be  lighted,  thrust  into  the  hole,  and  a  thick  piece  of  turf  to  stop  the 
entrance,  will  kill  the  marauders. 

Flowering  Trees  and  Snrubs  for  Windy  Places.— Only  vigorous  trees  and  shrubs 
should  be  planted  in  very  windy  places.  Where  Rhododendrons  and  Azaleas  succeed  they 
may  be  planted  freely  for  their  spring  beauty,  and,  in  the  case  of  the  former  shrub,  ever- 
green foliage  too.  Barberries  may  be  tried,  and  they  bear  beautiful  flowers  in  spring  and 
summer,  followed  by  showy  fruit  in  autumn.  The  purple-leaved  Barberry  (B.  vulgaris 
purpurea)  is  an  effective,  dark-leaved  shrub,  and  will  flourish  in  quite  barren  ground. 
The  Phillyreas  form  a  small  group  of  compact,  evergreen  shrubs,  and,  with  the  exception 
of  P.  decora,  also  known  as  P.  vilmoriniana,  all  have  graceful  deep  green  leaves,  and  are 
quite  hardy.  The  Spanish  Broom  (Spartium  junceum)  is  another  good  shrub  for  the 
purpose.  One  may  also  choose  from  the  Thorn,  Laburnum,  stronger  growing  forms  of 
Deutzia,  Bush  Honeysuckles  (Weigela),  Snowdrop  Tree  (Halesia),  Lilacs,  Flowering 
Currants  (Ribes). 

Garden  Plants  that  will  bear  Flooding.— Many  of  my  readers  are  placed  by  river- 
sides, and  some  part  of  the  garden  is  flooded  occasionally  in  winter.  A  correspondent  in 
the  Garden,  "A.  B.,"  in  response  to  a  question  about  the  plants  likely  to  succeed  under 
such  conditions,  gave  a  list  from  his  experience  that  will  succeed: — "Several  forms  of 
Lychnis,  Spiraea,  Myosotis  (Forget-me-not)  in  various  perennial  forms  ;  Lupinus,  Leucojum 
(Snowflakes),  Flag  or  German  Iris,  Trollius  (Globe-flowers),  Caltha  (Marsh  Marigolds), 
in  variety  ;  Chrysanthemum  latifolium  and  C.  maximum,  with  their  hybrids ;  Bunch 
Primroses,  Polyanthus,  Primula  japonica  (plant  this  on  the  water  edge  of  the  river), 
Daffodils,  Snowdrops,  Fritillaria,  double  form  of  Meadow  Saxifrage,  Anemone  japonica, 
Hemerocallis  (Day  Lilies),  these  will  revel  in  a  damp  root-run  ;  Aconitum,  Paeony, 
Helianthus  (Perennial  Sunflower),  Delphiniums  (to  see  these  at  their  best  add  peat  to  the 
soil),  Starworts,  Phlox  (must  have  very  rich  soil),  Doronicums,  Campanulas  (to  get  best 
effect  add  peat  and  leaf-mould),  Oriental  Poppies,  Achillea  Ptarmica,  the  Pearl, 


6i8 


GARDENING   FOR    BEGINNERS 


FIG.  68.— Useful  Garden 
Tools. 

Dibble,  Dutch  or  push  hoe,  com- 
mon or  draw  hoe,  and  rake. 


Linosyris  vulgaris  (Goldilocks),   Columbine,   Rudbeckia,  Erigeron  sfeciosus,  Eryngium 

alpinum,  Galega  (Goat's  Rue),  Geranium  (Cranes-bill),  Tradescantia  virginica,   Pole- 

monium,  Geums,  Ribbon  Grass,  Adonis  vernalis. 
Hollyhocks,  Cannas,  Dahlias,  Begonias,  and  Gladioli 
can  be  lifted  and  stored  for  the  winter.  May-flower- 
ing Tulips  can  all  be  planted  early  in  March,  lifting 
them  when  ripe.  Many  Lilies  can  be  planted  in 
February  and  March,  lifting  them  when  ripe  and 
wintering  them  in  boxes  of  moist  peat.  Biennials 
and  half-hardy  plants  can  be  raised  the  previous 
season,  or  the  same  season  in  heat.  Marguerite 
Carnations,  hybrid  Aquilegias,  Foxgloves,  Portu- 
laccas,  Antirrhinum,  Annual  Chrysanthemums,  Asters, 
Stocks,  Sweet  Williams,  Canterbury  Bells,  Petunias, 
Coreopsis  (annual  and  perennial),  Salpiglossis,  Sweet 
Scabious,  Sweet  Sultan,  Indian  Corn,  Dianthus  Hed- 
dewigi,  Annual  Phlox,  Verbenas,  Aubrietias,  Cam- 
panula pyramidalis,  Eschscholtzias,  Iceland  Poppies, 
Tufted  Pansies,  Evening  Primroses,  Sweet  Tobacco 
(Nicotiana  sylvestris],  Forget-me-not  (Myosotis .  dis- 
sitiflora),  Gypsophila  paniculata,  Tagetes  (African 
and  French  Marigolds),  Celsia  cretica,  Mulleins,  and 
Anchusa  italica.  Few  annuals  succeed,  the  best  being 

Nasturtiums,  annual  Larkspurs,  and  annual  Monkshoods,  with  Godetias,  Shirley  Poppies; 

and  Cornflower  will  do  sown  the  previous  September  for  transplanting ;  Paris  Daisies, 

Salvias,  Ivy-leaved  Geraniums,  Heliotrope,  Fuchsias,  Geraniums,  and  Pentstemons,  to  be 

struck   from   cuttings  and  wintered   in  a  cool  frame.      Trees: 

Copper  Beech,  Silver  Maple,  Golden  Elder,  Weeping  Ash,  red 

and  pink  Hawthorns,  Japanese  flowering  Apples,  double  white 

and  pink  Cherries,  red  Horse-Chestnut,  and  Laburnums. 

"  As  Creepers,  cut-leaf  and  other  Blackberries,  type  Clematises, 

on  their  own  roots,  white  Everlasting  Peas,  Kentish  Hops,  Vir- 
ginian Creepers,  Honeysuckle  of  kinds,  and  hardy  single  Roses 

and  Ivy ;  Pampas  Grass,  Guelder  Roses,  Weigelas,  Rugosa,  or 

other  single  hardy  Roses  on  their  own  roots.     Sweet  Briars  all 

do  as  bushes.     Mock  Oranges,  Ribes  of  kinds,  Forsythia,  Lilacs, 

all  these  will  do." 

Garden    Tools.  —  These   must    be    of   various    descriptions. 

Spades,  forks,  hoes,  rakes,  picks,  knives,  saws,  shears,  scythes, 

rollers,  wheelbarrows,  water-pots,  and  many  other  things.     But 

once  purchased  they  should  always  have  a  place  to  themselves, 

where,  having  been  well  cleaned  after  being  used,  they  can  be 

hung  up  or  otherwise  stored.     It  is  surprising  how  little  space 

tools  need.     When  on  hooks,  or  large  nails,  they  can  be  hung 

up  round  a  shed.     A  shed  made  with  a  wood  frame,  and  coated 

with  corrugated  iron,  does  not  cost  much,  and  is  very  enduring. 

It  may  even  be  large  enough,  if  near  the  greenhouse  or  frames, 

to  be  used  as  a  potting  shed  also.     All  tools  should  be  kept  quite 

clean,  as  then  they  work  more  freely  and  last  longer.     Always 

leave  water-cans  upside  down  after  use.     Give  barrows,  pots,  &c., 

a  coat  of  paint  occasionally,  as  it  pays  in  the  end.     Keep  one 

large  pruning  knife  for  rough  work,  and  a  small  one  in  the  pocket 

for  common  use. 

Greenhouse    Fires.— Where  there    is    a    greenhouse,   some 

means  of  heating  it  to  exclude  frost  in  winter  is  essential.     Gas  or 

oil  lamps  are  temporary  and  poor  means  for  warming  a  green- 
house, often  failing,  and  the  foul  gases  emitted  are  most  harmful 

to  the  plants.     The  best  provision  is  found  in  a  small  boiler  fixed 

in  the  wall  of  the  greenhouse  at  one  end,  the  furnace  door  by 

which  it  is  fed  being  outside,  and  protected  with  a  small  corru-    pIG    gQ Rake  and 

gated  iron  sheet  to  ward  off  wind  and  rain  from  the  fuel.     If  to        j'w      uop      w:.u 

this  boiler  be  attached  inside  sufficient  length  of  4-inch  piping,  it 

is  easy  then  to  get  up  a  nice  warmth,  and  with  proper  attention  to 

maintain  it  through  the  night,  especially  in  hard  weather.     All 

these  boilers  are  best  fed  with  fuel  of  one-third  small  coal,  the 

rest  being  finely  broken  coke  and  house  cinders.     Always  loosen 

the  mass  of  fire,  perhaps  once  in  two  hours  during  the  daytime,  adding  fresh  fuel,  especially 

before  going  to  bed,  when  the  fire  should  be  well  banked  up. 


draw  hoe  with 
long  handles.  Also 
digging  spade  and 
narrow  tined  fork. 


USEFUL   HINTS 


619 


Gumming. — Gumming  on  fruit  trees  is  practically  confined  to  those  producing  stone 
fruit.  Peaches,  Nectarines,  Plums,  Apricots,  Cherries,  and  Almonds  are  all  prone  to  it, 
and  the  intelligent  cultivator  dreads  its  appearance  on  the  trees  named  almost  as  much  as 
an  outbreak  of  canker  in  the  Apple  orchard.  Fortunately,  however,  it  does  not  spread 
rapidly  from  tree  to  tree  as  canker  does,  though  it  is  equally  difficult  to  eradicate  when 
once  it  puts  in  an  appearance. 

Its  appearance  at  times  is  most  puzzling,  even  to  experienced  growers,  as,  knowing 
what  conditions  are  likely  to  produce  gumming,  measures  are  taken  to  arrest  it.  This  is 
not  so,  however,  with  the  amateur  or  young  gardener.  The  latter  especially  often  under- 
takes the  management  of  a  valuable  lot  of  trees  either  growing  against  walls  in  the  open 
or  under  glass.  A  few  errors  on  his  part  in  the  cultural  details  may  lead  to  much  trouble, 
if  not  the  total  loss  of  valuable  trees,  through  the  excessive  exudation  of  gum  from  the 
main  stem  or  branches. 
.  One  of  the  most  fruitful  sources  is  the  too  free  use  of  the  knife.  Trees  which  produce 


FIG.  70. — Evil  effects  of  wire  and  tight  shreds. 


FIG.  71. — Gumming. 


stone  fruit  resent  hard  pruning  more  than  either  the  Apple  or  Pear.  Under  proper  treat- 
ment pruning  can  and  should  be  reduced  to  a  minimum.  This  in  the  first  instance  is 
accomplished  by  properly  disbudding  the  branches  in  summer,  and  secondly  by  preventing 
the  formation  of  gross  shoots.  Rank-growing  trees  are  more  subject  to  gumming  than 
those  which  make  medium  growth  and  carry  full  crops  of  fruit  annually.  To  severely  prune 
the  former  only  makes  matters  worse.  The  fault  can  generally  be  traced  to  the  border, 
unless  through  some  mishap  the  crop  fails,  and  there  is  not  the  strain  of  fruit  production 
to  balance  growth.  It  is  the  roots,  therefore,  and  not  the  branches  that  must  be  dealt 
with.  A  firm  and  rather  shallow  rooting  medium  favours  the  formation  of  short-jointed, 
healthy  fruiting  wood,  support  being  afforded  as  the  trees  require  it.  Deep  rich  borders 
of  loose  formation  and  overcharged  with  manure  encourage  soft  strong  shoots  which 
seldom  become  matured  by  autumn.  With  outdoor  trees  such  unmatured  wood  is  easily 
injured  by  frost,  and  its  effect  is  readily  noticed  the  following  spring,  first  of  all  by  the 
discoloration  of  the  bark,  forming  patches  of  red  here  and  there.  These  eventually  turn 


620  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

black,  the  bark  dies,  and  this  is  generally  followed  by  the  exudation  of  gum.  From  this 
it  would  appear  that  the  sap  vessels  having  been  ruptured,  strangulation  at  that  point 
results,  and  the  growth  above,  being  cut  off  from  further  support,  perishes.  In  the  case 
of  strong  growing  trees  lift  them  and  rearrange  the  roots,  bringing  the  latter  nearer  the 
surface.  Place  fresh  strong  loam  about  them,  the  only  addition  required  being  old 
mortar,  and  then  ram  the  whole  firm. 

Although,  as  pointed  out,  gumming  may  be  the  result  in  the  first  instance  of  indiffe- 
rent root  action,  coupled  with  what  may  be  termed  frost-bite,  it  generally  follows  wounds 
or  abrasions  of  the  bark.  How  do  these  abrasions  occur  ?  Seeing  the  evil  which  follows, 
how  careful  one  should  be  in  avoiding  them. 

A  wound  to  the  bark  is  easily  produced  by  the  use  of  shreds  that  are  too  short,  and 
which  will  not  allow  for  the  free  swelling  of  the  various  shoots  for  at  least  a  year.  No- 
part  of  the  tree  should  ever  be  allowed  to  press  hard  against  the  brickwork.  Look  over 
the  trees  frequently  during  the  growing  season  to  free  any  shoot  that  is  likely  to  become 
too  closely  encircled  by  the  shreds  or  matting. 

Hedges  of  Flowering  Shrubs. — It  often  happens  that  some  kind  of  hedge  is  wanted 
in  a  garden,  either  as  a  screen  to  hide  vegetable  ground,  or  as  a  wind  break  or  some  kind 
of  partition.  When  this  is  the  case  it  is  a  good  plan  to  plant  hardy  flowering  shrubs 
about  4  feet  apart,  and  to  so  train  them  that  they  grow  into  a  compact  hedge, 
and  yet  have  enough  lateral  play  to  allow  them  to  flower.  Such  a  hedge  is  not  only- 
ornamental,  but  it  yields  endless  material  for  cutting.  It  should  be  allowed  to  grow 
quite  4  feet  thick,  and  is  best  formed  with  a  backbone  of  stiff  woody  shrubs,  such  as 
Guelder  Roses,  Ribes,  and  Lilac,  while  between  the  stiffer  shrubs  might  be  some  that  are 
weaker,  such  as  Kerria,  Rhodotypos,  and  Leycesteria.  Plants  of  rank,  rambling  growth, 
such  as  the  free  Roses  or  double-flowered  Brambles,  Aristolochia,  Wistaria,  Virginian 
Creeper,  and  the  rambling  Honeysuckles,  are  not  in  place  in  such  a  hedge ;  they  are 
more  suitable  for  rough  hedge  banks,  walls,  or  for  arbour  and  pergola  ;  the  flower  hedge 
wants  true  shrubs.  The  bush  Honeysuckles,  such  as  Lonicera  fragrantissima  and 
L.  tatarica,  are  just  right,  or  any  woody,  twiggy  bushes  either  of  moderate  growth,  or 
such  as  are  amenable  to  pruning  or  thinning,  such  as  Deutzia  and  Snowberry,  shrubs  that 
so  often  get  overgrown  in  a  shrubbery.  In  the  hedge  these  would  do  well,  as  they  could 
be  easily  watched  and  thinned,  also  any  of  the  many  true  shrubs  that  flower  all  the  better 
for  reasonable  pruning.  Any  one  would  be  surprised  to  see  what  a  quantity  of  useful 
flowers  such  a  hedge  will  yield,  while  if  there  is  another  of  foliage  for  winter  use  it  will  be 
invaluable  to  the  indoor  decorator,  using  such  shrubs  as  the  Scotch  Golden  Holly,  Golden 
Euonymus,  Golden  Privet,  the  variegated  Eurya  latifolia,  yellow  variegated  Box, 
Cassiniafulvida,  and  Golden  Tree  Ivy,  all  shrubs  of  the  utmost  value  for  winter  cuttings. 
Other  flower  hedges  are  delightful  possessions.  Hedges  of  China  Rose,  of  Sweet-briar, 
of  old  garden  Roses,  or  of  climbing  and  rambling  Roses  trained  down,  of  Honeysuckle, 
of  Jasmine — some  of  these  are  occasionally  seen  ;  but  a  good  selection  of  true  hedge  shrubs 
is  rarely,  if  ever,  made.  Any  of  the  shrubs  recommended  for  the  mixed  flowering  hedge 
could,  of  course,  be  used  alone,  and  excellent  would  it  be  to  have  a  hedge  of  Guelder  Rose, 
or  of  flowering  Currant  or  Japanese  Quince,  and  how  much  more  interesting  than  the 
plain  hedge  of  Quick  or  Privet  or  Holly.  Both  sides  of  the  hedge  should  be  easily  acces- 
sible ;  not  necessarily  by  a  hard  path,  but  by  a  space  just  wide  enough  to  go  along 
comfortably.  An  additional  advantage  well  worth  considering  would  be  that,  supposing 
the  direction  of  the  hedge  was  east  and  west,  the  south  side  would  flower  in  advance  of 
the  north,  and  so  prolong  the  supply  of  bloom. 

Sweet  Briars  as  Exposed  Hedges. — The  Common  Briar  makes  an  excellent  hedge. 
It  is  very  hardy,  and  as  the  plants  are  raised  from  seed  there  is  no  trouble  from  wild 
suckers,  such  as  one  experiences  now  and  then  with  budded  plants  of  Lord  Penzance's 
hybrid  Sweet  Briars,  which  make  delightful  hedges.  The  most  brillant  crimson  is  Anne 
of  Gierstein.  Other  good  kinds  are  Amy  Robsart  (pink),  and  Lady  Penzance  (coppery 
yellow)  ;  the  last  mentioned  is  not  quite  so  free  as  the  others.  All  have  fragrant  foliage, 
and  produce  showy  fruits  in  autumn.  The  Sweet  Briar  revels  in  a  good,  deep  loamy 
soil,  inclined  to  clay,  but  before  planting  the  ground  must  be  trenched,  incorporating  with 
the  soil  well-decayed  farmyard  manure,  and  a  little  old  mortar  and  burnt  garden  refuse  if 
procurable.  Plant  between  October  and  April.  Do  not  plant  very  large  bushes  of  the 
Sweet  Briar.  Those  from  2  feet  to  3  feet  in  height  are  strong  enough.  One  year  after 
planting  cut  them  down  to  within  12  inches  or  15  inches  of  the  ground  ;  the  subsequent 
treatment  consists  in  removing  dead  and  crowded  growths  in  autumn,  and  pruning  rather 
severely  three  or  four  years  to  induce  strong,  new  growth.  A  good  watering  now  and 
then  during  the  summer  with  diluted  stable  or  cowyard  drainings  forms  an  excellent 
stimulant  for  these  and  other  Roses  used  as  hedge  plants. 

Hot-bed. — In  making  a  hot-bed,  either  for  forcing  vegetables,  growing  Melons 
or  Cucumbers,  or  raising  annual  flowers,  the  first  thing  to  be  considered  is  the  pre- 
paration of  the  materials.  These  should  consist  of  leaves  and  stable  litter  in  equal 


USEFUL   HINTS  621 

quantities,  and  be  thrown  into  a  heap  and  turned  over  several  times  at  intervals  of  three 
or  four  days  to  allow  the  steam  to  escape.  If  the  leaves  or  litter  are  too  dry,  make  them 
thoroughly  moist  by  sprinkling  water  over  them.  Thus  prepared  the  material  will  retain  the 
heat  for  an  indefinite  period.  Secondly,  the  dimensions  of  the  bed  should  be  marked  out, 
and  allowance  made  for  a  2^-feet  pathway  all  round,  after  the  frame  is  placed  on.  Stout 
stake?  should  then  be  driven  in  at  the  four  corners  to  serve  as  guides  when  the  bed  is  being 
made,  after  which  place  a  layer  of  the  material  along  the  sides  and  ends  of  the  bed,  in  a 
direct  line  with  the  stakes,  and  then  proceed  with  the  interior  of  the  bed.  As  each  moderate 
layer  of  leaves  and  litter  is  added,  let  it  be  trodden  very  firmly,  as  if  left  in  a  loose  con- 
dition the  bed  will  soon  lose  its  heat,  and  also  be  liable  to  tilt  on  one  side  when  the  frame 
is  placed  on.  The  sides  and  ends  must  be  well  trodden  and  beaten  with  a  fork,  or  they 
will  collapse  when  walked  upon  later.  Beds  which  are  made  very  early  in  the  year 
should  be  4  feet  high  at  the  back,  and  3  feet  6  inches  in  front,  while  those  made  later 
may  be  6  inches  less  in  depth.  A  good  fall  from  back  to  front  must  be  allowed,  so  that 
a  maximum  amount  of  sun  heat  may  reach  the  interior  of  the  frame.  As  soon  as  the  bed 
is  finished  the  frame  may  be  placed  on  and  the  soil  thrown  in,  after  which  some  clban  straw 
litter  should  be  laid  round  the  frame  on  the  bed  to  give  a  neat  appearance. 

Labels. — Everything  sown  or  planted  in  a  garden  should  be  labelled,  such  as  all 
varieties  of  Apples  or  other  fruits,  of  Dahlias,  Roses,  Carnations,  and  other  things  indi- 
vidually, and  Peas,  Potatoes,  Cabbages,  &c.,  in  the  bulk.  Labels  may  be  made  easily 
from  stout  laths  rent  for  plastering,  as  these  need  little  preparation.  A  bundle  of  laths 
3  feet  long  will  make  hundreds  of  labels,  from  4  inches,  wired  on  to  trees  or  roses,  up  to 
8  inches,  for  vegetables.  First  cut  them  into  proper  lengths,  then  pointed  one  end,  if  to 
be  put  in  the  ground,  doing  that  with  a  sharp  knife,  and  facing  off  both  sides  flatwise 
quite  smooth.  A  little  thin  white  paint  may  be  well  rubbed  over  a  few  inches  of  the  top 
of  one  side,  and  the  name  be  written  with  pencil  whilst  the  paint  is  wet.  It  then  soon 
dries,  and  the  writing  will  remain  clear  as  long  as  the  label  endures.  These  wood  labels 
should  be  prepared  by  the  fireside  in  the  winter.  If  metal  labels  are  desired,  the  best  we 
know  are  the  "  Acme." 

Mulching. — This  is  a  term  understood  by  practical  gardeners  as  a  dressing  of  some 
other  material  placed  on  the  surface  of  the  soil  about  plants,  trees,  and  similar  things  to 
check  waste  of  moisture  when,  either  after  watering  or  after  rain,  or  at  any  time  hot  sun 
beats  fiercely  on  the  soil,  and  makes  it  hot  so  that  it  dries  rapidly.  To  prevent  this  the 
gardener,  whenever  he  can,  places  about  the  things  he  has  to  water,  or  between  and  about 
garden  crops  or  fruit  trees  or  other  things,  a  layer  of  manure  containing  a  good  portion  of 
straw ;  or  failing  that,  cocoa-nut  fibre  refuse  or  decayed  leaves,  as  these  catch  the  sun's 
rays  and  protect  the  soil,  thus  keeping  moisture  in  it.  Under  waterings  or  rains  the  manurial 
properties  in  the  mulch  also  will  wash  in  and  assist  to  feed  the  crops  or  trees.  Fruit  trees 
on  walls  and  Vines  specially  benefit  by  mulches  of  manure. 

Nails  and  Shreds. — Every  gardener  (the  term  is  used  in  its  broadest  sense)  has 
occasion  to  nail  fruit  trees  or  climbers  to  walls  or  fences.  The  best  nails  for  brick  or 
stonework  are  those  of  the  ordinary  cast-iron  form,  as  these  do  not  bend,  and  can  be 
driven  into  very  hard  material.  When  old  ones  are  drawn  from  a  wall  they  should 
have  a  partial  turn  or  twist  given  to  them  with  the  hammer  claw  or  pincers  first,  as  that  pre- 
serves the  point  and  frees  them  from  mortar.  Nails  that  have  lost  their  points  are  of 
little  use,  and  should  be  thrown  away.  Old  nails  with  hard  mortar  still  adhering  are 
best  cleaned  by  putting  them  on  an  old  shovel  and  burning  them  in  a  fire,  as  then  they 
are  quite  fit  for  use.  Shreds  should  always  be  made  of  clean,  even  if  old  cloth.  They 
may,  according  to  the  size  of  the  shoots  they  are  to  secure,  range  from  half  an  inch  to  an 
inch  in  width,  and  be  from  three  to  even  six  inches  in  length.  Old  shreds  may  be  full  of 
insect  eggs  or  fungoid  spores,  and  should  be  burned  at  once. 

Packing  Flowers. — The  best  way  to  pack  flowers  is  to  wet  some  moss  and  wring  it 
out  in  the  hand,  and  either  tie  it  on  to,  or  lay  it  loosely  but  firmly  among  the  stalks,  and 
envelop  the  whole  in  some  large  fresh  leaf  like  Cabbage,  Rhubarb,  Spinach,  Lettuce, 
Dock,  or  even  Ivy.  If  the  box  is  larger  than  the  space  the  specimens  actually  occupy, 
it  is  well  to  fold  the  green  leaf  over  the  flowers,  and  to  fill  the  rest  of  the  space  with 
crinkled  paper  of  any  kind,  wood  or  paper  shavings,  or  any  such  material,  in  order  to 
keep  the  flowers  quite  firm,  and  not  allow  any  movement  whatever.  It  is  much  better  to 
pack  very  tight,  only  short  of  crushing,  than  to  leave  any  space  which  would  allow  them 
to  move.  It  should  be  remembered  that  a  postal  journey  is  a  train  journey,  and  that  the 
unceasing  vibration  means  a  constant  grinding  of  any  surfaces  which  may  be  in  contact 
with  each  other.  Only  tight  packing  prevents  injury  from  this  cause.  In  all  such  pack- 
ing exclusion  of  air  is  also  of  the  utmost  importance,  and  therefore  tins  are  the  best  kind 
of  receptacle.  There  is  generally  a  Cabbage  leaf  in  the  kitchen,  and  there  is  often  only 
too  much  ivy  on  the  house. 

Pergola.— The  pergola,  or  covered  way  of  green  growths,  has  come  to  us  from 
Italy,  and  is  frequently  seen  in  English  gardens.  In  Italy  it  answers  the  two  purposes 


622  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

of  the  best  way  of  growing  Vines  for  fruit,  and  of  affording  pleasant  shade  over  paths. 
Even  in  England,  though  Grapes  will  only  ripen  against  a  wall,  the  Vine  is  still  the  best 
and  most  beautiful  covering  for  these  pleasant,  shady  ways,  and  with  other  quick-growing 
climbing  plants,  such  as  Aristolochia  and  Roses,  will  soon  cover  the  skeleton  of  the  struc- 
ture, and  give  the  cool  shade  that  is  so  pleasant  in  the  heat  of  full  summer.  The  pergola 
may  be  entirely  of  wood,  preferably  of  oak,  stems  about  9  inches  in  diameter,  and  left 
quite  rough.  The  bark  must  not  be  stripped  off.  Where  expense  is  no  object  it  is  better 
that  the  supports  should  be  of  something  more  durable  than  wood.  Nothing  is  better 
than  piers  of  14-inch  brickwork,  standing  7  feet  2  inches  out  of  the  ground,  with  sound 
beams  of  oak  coupling  them  across  the  walk,  and  larch  poles  or  branching  tops  of  oak 
laid  along  overhead.  There  are  also  some  small  trees  that  will  soon  cover  a  pergola, 
such  as  Laburnum  and  Weeping  Ash.  These  two,  if  grown  together  over  a  temporary 
larch  support,  would  in  time  take  its  place  altogether.  In  quite  small  gardens  rough 
arches  of  oak  across  a  path  are  pretty,  and  provide  opportunities  for  the  growth  of 
climbers;  but  never  use  galvanised  iron  frameworks  or  anything  of  a  cheap  "rustic" 
character.  Simplicity  should  be  the  watchword. 

Plants  for  Rooms. — No  book  upon  gardening  intended  for  the  beginner  would  be 
in  any  sense  complete  without  some  particulars  about  Window  and  Room  Plants.  Many 
lovers  of  flowers  have  no  greenhouse  or  even  garden  to  pursue  their  pleasurable  inclina- 
tions, and  it  is  then  the  room  becomes  the  indoor  garden,  where  those  things  that  will 
succeed  in  this  atmosphere  are  grown  in  as  great  a  variety  as  possible.  Dwellers  in 
"  flats  "  usually  lighted  by  electricity,  not  by  health-destroying  gas,  may  brighten  their 
apartments  considerably  by  judiciously  selecting  a  few  good  things.  At  present  room 
gardening  is  not  always  successful.  There  are  more  failures  than  successes,  and  unless 
certain  golden  rules  are  unfailingly  observed,  it  is  hopeless  to  expect  plants  to  live  for  more 
than  a  few  weeks,  whereas  with  correct  treatment  their  lives  would  have  been  of  consider- 
able duration.  It  is  very  easy  to  deal  with  insect  pests,  as  the  plants  are  under  close  and 
constant  observation,  but  the  failures  may  be  attributed  to  injudicious  watering,  draughts, 
foolish  applications  of  violent  fertilisers,  and  dust.  There  are  others,  and  one  of  them  is 
not  purchasing  the  right  sort  of  plant.  Things  forced  in  heat  merely  to  sell,  glistening 
green-leaved  india-rubber  plants,  glossy  palms,  and  so  forth,  are  invariably  a  failure. 
We  have  no  wish  to  say  hard  things  about  the  hawker,  but  he  buys  from  the  marketman, 
who  puts  things  in  the  market  that  have  been  produced  by  unnatural  forcing  in  heat.  So 
go  to  a  good  nurseryman  who  has  grown  the  plants  in  about  the  same  temperature  as  the 
room,  then,  success,  with  correct  after-treatment,  may  be  expected.  It  is  a  mistake  to 
buy  at  all  in  the  winter,  unless,  of  course,  for  temporary  decoration. 

Draught  is  a  fruitful  source  of  failure.  The  plants  are  stood  about  the  floor  in  the 
draught  from  doors  when  cleansing  operations  are  going  on  in  the  early  morning,  or  the 
windows  are  left  open,  and  the  foliage  flutters  in  the  keen  early  wind.  All  this  means 
that  in  time  (not  very  long)  the  deep  green  of  the  leaf  changes  to  brown,  and  plant  grow- 
ing is  given  up  in  disgust.  Then  in  the  winter  frost  attacks  the  plants.  The  temperature 
drops  far  below  freezing  point  in  an  un warmed  room,  and  the  plants  in  the  window  have 
an  unhappy  time,  even  in  a  room  used  during  the  day.  Never  fail  to  bring  the 
plants  into  the  centre  of  the  room  when  a  sharp  frost  is  expected,  and  this  may  be  easily 
managed  with  an  iron  or  strong  wire  stand.  Never  leave  the  door  and  window  open  at 
the  same  time  or  allow  cold  draughts  to  blow  upon  the  plants. 

In  large  towns  constant  attention  is  needful.  Dust  accumulates  on  the  foliage, 
especially  in  the  case  of  thick- leaved  plants,  such  as  the  Aspidistra  or  Parlour  Palm, 
Aralia  Sicboldi,  Palms,  and  similar  things.  Free  the  leaf  surfaces  from  dust  with  a 
bit  of  sponge  moistened  in  tepid  water.  Unless  this  important  duty  is  frequently 
attended  to  it  is  hopeless  to  expect  healthy  plants.  Dust  chokes  up  the  pores  and 
suffocation  ensues. 

Water  should  always  be  tepid.  A  fruitful  cause  of  failure  is  cold  water,  which  chills 
the  roots,  hinders  growth,  and  eventually  kills  the  plants.  This  may  seem  a 
trivial  matter ;  it  is  not  so.  Good  room  and  window  gardeners  use  water  of  the  same 
temperature  as  the  apartment.  It  is  also  wise  to  let  the  water  intended  for  the  plants 
remain  in  a  vessel  in  the  open  air  to  soften,  and  where  rain  water  can  be  used  this  is 
better  than  that  from  tap  or  well.  Never  over  or  under  water.  The  soil  should  be 
kept  in  an  equal  condition  of  moisture,  and  when  watering  give  a  good  dose  at  each 
application,  so  that  it  runs  through  the  drainage  and  out  of  the  hole  in  the  bottom 
of  the  pot.  In  summer  and  warm  spring  days  the  plants  receive  considerable  benefit 
from  pleasant  showers,  soft,  gently  falling  rain,  not  violent  downpours. 

Of  course  a  greenhouse  is  an  immense  help  to  the  room  plants  and  flowers.  When 
the  latter  become  out  of  health,  take  them  to  the  purer  air  of  the  greenhouse,  and  under 
more  natural  conditions,  and  especially  after  they  have  been  repotted.  The  greenhouse  is 
also  a  nursery  for  bulbous  flowers  and  other  things  as  pointed  out  in  the  chapter  about 
greenhouse  plants. 


USEFUL   HINTS  623 

When  potting  room  plants,  remember  it  is  most  important  to  restrict  the  size  of  the 
pots  as  much  as  possible.  Palms  are  frequently  happier  with  their  roots  cramped  in  a  pot 
than  when  allowed  greater  freedom,  and  disturbance  at  all  is  seldom  necessary.  We 
have  Palms  that  have  been  in  the  same  pots  for  years.  The  soil  is  top-dressed  once  a  year, 
and  during  the  growing  time  a  little  weak  liquid  manure  is  given.  With  regard  to  soil  the 
information  given  in  the  chapter  upon  greenhouse  plants  applies  here. 

There  is  one  point  often  forgotten,  and  that  is  of  giving  during  the  growing  season  a 
little  stimulant  or  "artificial  manure,"  such  as  Clay's.  Use  this  manure  strictly  according 
to  directions,  not  a  least  bit  over,  as  it  is  powerful,  and,  like  medicine  given  in  excessive 
doses,  inflicts  considerable  injury.  We  have  known  plants  killed  by  the  excessive  use  of 
artificial  fertilisers.  Soot  water  is  excellent,  and  is  easily  made  by  putting  soot  in  a  small 
sack  and  letting  it  soak  through  in  a  tub  of  water.  Soot  is  useful  to  give  in  the  spring, 
and  makes  the  foliage  of  deeper  colour. 

The  majority  of  insect  pests  may  be  removed  with  a  tiny  brush  or  with  the  hand. 

Planting  and  Sheltering  an  Exposed  Flower  Border. — In  dealing  with  a  border  of 
this  kind,  and  there  are  many  similar  positions  in  English  gardens,  we  should  advise,  in 
the  first  place,  a  careful  planting  of  one  of  the  best  of  our  native  evergreens,  either  Yew  or 
Holly.  Which  of  these  two  it  would  be  wiser  to  use  should  be  decided  by  observing 
which  appears  to  be  more  vigorous  in  the  neighbourhood.  Both  are  slow  of  growth  at 
first,  but  grow  fast  when  well  established.  In  an  exposed  place  no  pains  should  be 
spared  to  make  this  shelter  planting  effectual.  Then  you  must  have  shelter  shrubs.  Pyrus 
Malus floribunda  is  very  hardy,  flowering  when  quite  young.  Lilacs  are  amongst  our 
hardiest  shrubs,  flourishing  even  within  the  Arctic  circle.  Double  Thorns  would  also  do, 
the  double  white  being  far  the  best.  Laburnums  also  do  well.  Wistaria  is  hardy,  and 
is  beautiful  grown  as  a  Standard,  as  is  also  Philadelphus  (Mock  Orange).  It  should  be 
remembered  that  all  shrubs  that  are  amenable  to  the  standard  form  give  much  more 
bloom.  Brooms  are  hardy  and  beautiful,  and  there  are  many  .kinds  to  choose  from. 
With  these,  or  even  a  smaller  selection  of  them  as  a  sheltering  background,  nearly  all  the 
best  known  border  plants  would  succeed. 

Planting  a  Steep,  Sunny  Bank  of  Poor  Soil. — Amateur  gardeners  are  often  at  a  loss 
to  know  how  to  deal  with  such  banks  as  this,  and  the  following  hints  may  prove  helpful. 
In  the  latitude  of  London  and  the  large  portion  of  England  that  is  to  the  south  of  it, 
many  of  the  shrubs  and  plants  of  the  Mediterranean  district  succeed  well  on  banks  in  poor, 
warm  soils  that  are  naturally  well  drained,  and  receive  the  full  heat  of  the  sun.  Con- 
spicuous amongst  these  are  the  hardier  of  the  Cistuses,  Rosemary,  Lavender,  Santolina, 
and  Phlomis,  all  the  Brooms,  the  sand-loving,  bluish  grass  {Elymus  arcnarius},  the  Eryn- 
giums  or  Sea  Hollies,  a  large  range  of  aromatic  herbs  such  as  Thyme,  Marjoram,  Cat- 
mint, Furze  of  kinds,  Broom,  Lycium  (Boxthorn),  Brambles,  not  forg'etting  the  pretty 
cut-leaved  Rubus  laciniatus,  the  Japanese  Wineberry  (Rubus  phcenicolasius),  picturesque 
in  growth  and  in  fruit,  and  with  slight  preparation,  the  Japanese  Rose  (Rosa  rugosa), 
and  the  Scotch  Briars.  The  situation  is  also  favourable  to  the  hardy  Opuntias  of  recent 
introduction.  Such  a  place  also  shows  to  great  advantage  several  plants  that  are  com- 
monly grown  as  climbers  up  walls  or  other  supports,  and  that  are  quite  as  beautiful 
rambling  at  will  over  the  ground.  Amongst  these  would  be  Clematis  montana,  which 
is  of  extreme  vigour,  and  bears  a  wealth  of  white  flowers  in  spring,  C.  Flammula, 
paniculata ,  graveolens ,  and  the  Old  Man's  Beard  or  Travellers'  Joy  (C.  Vitalba).  Many 
of  these  Clematises  are  as  beautiful  when  in  seed  as  in  flower.  Every  lover  of  the  open 
knows  how  charming  is  the  hedgerow  in  autumn  when  the  Travellers'  Joy  covers  it  with 
its  foamy  seed  tassels.  Upon  this  bank  could  also  be  placed  Everlasting  Peas  if  the  soil 
is  prepared  deep  enough  for  their  great  roots.  Othonnopsis  and  Arnebia  echioides 
(Prophet  Flower),  the  native  and  other  heaths.  These  plants  would  give  an  ample  list 
for  a  very  large  space  of  ground. 

Planting  Sloping-  Banks  in  Garden  Ground. — No  feature  is  more  frequent  in 
gardens,  whether  large  or  small,  than  a  change  of  level  necessitating  a  flight  of  steps. 
The  change  of  level,  if  not  retained  by  a  wall,  usually  has  for  its  fate  the  steep  turf  bank, 
unbeautiful,  awkward  to  mow,  and  in  all  ways  a  very  "  bad  second"  to  the  better  way  of 
treating  it  as  a  slope  planted  with  suitable  bushy  growths.  Cotoneaster  microphylla  is  a 
most  suitable  dwarf  shrub  for  this  purpose,  but  only  one  of  many  that  can  be  used  in 
like  manner.  Such  a  bank  planted  with  Savin  (Junipetus  Sabina),  an  evergreen  of 
deep,  low-toned  colour,  that  accords  with  the  most  dignified  of  masonry,  would  always, 
winter  or  summer,  clothe  it  well,  and  be  pleasant  to  see.  The  late  Dutch  Honeysuckle, 
though  not  evergreen,  is  also  a  capital  thing,  for  its  masses  of  growth,  interlacing  in  a 
kind  of  orderly  tangle,  are  by  no  means  unsightly  in  winter.  For  banks  of  large  size 
there  is  Pyrus  japonica,  the  free-growing  Roses,  or  the  double  Brambles.  For  hottest 
exposures  there  are  the  Cistinese  (Cistus  and  Helianthemum) ;  while  some  of  these 
and  other  sun-loving  plants,  such  as  Phlomis,  Rosemary,  and  Lavender,  can  be  used 
in  mixtures.  A  beautiful  combination  is  of  the  common  evergreen  Berberis  (B.  Aqui* 


624  GARDENING    FOR   BEGINNERS 

folium},  and  Forsythia  suspensa,  the  yellow  bloom  of  the  free-arching  Forsythia  coming 
while  the  Berberis  is  showing  its  own  yellow  bloom,  and  still  holds  its  leaves  of  winter  red- 
bronze  colouring.  Ivy  and  St.  John's  Wort  are  obvious  plants  for  such  use,  but  their 
monotony  makes  them  less  desirable  than  the  more  interesting  treatment  of  shrubs  with 
low  or  spreading  growth.  Scotch  Briars  are  also  excellent  for  this  kind  of  planting,  while 
if  the  bank  occurs  in  a  shady  spot,  or  has  a  cool  exposure,  it  will  be  a  good  place  for 
hardy  ferns. 

Pots  and  Potting. — Flower  pots  or  pans  used  for  growing  plants  of  any  description 
in  should  always  be  cleaned  before  being  employed.  If  they  are  new,  and  have  not  been 
exposed  to  the  weather,  dip  them  in  water  twenty  hours  before 
they  are  used,  as  quite  new  pots,  not  so  treated,  often  absorb 
much  moisture  from  the  soil.  All  that  have  been  used  should 
be  thoroughly  washed ,  and,  if  green,  scrubbed  clean  in  strong 
hot  soda  water  and  well  dried  before  they  are  again  used.  What 
are  called  crocks  or  drainage  usually  consists  of  such  split  or 
broken  pots  as  are  invariably  found  where  flower-pots  are  used. 
If  there  are,  however,  few  of  these,  some  soft  red  bricks  broken 
up,  not  too  finely,  make  good  drainage.  One  rather  flat  piece 
of  crock  or  potsherd  should  always  be  placed  over  the  pot  hole, 
„,  -p  .  and  on  that  from  half  to  one  inch  of  broken  rubble,  large  or 

PI  g        small»  according  to  the  size  of  the  pot.     Still  it  should  not  be 

a  .riant.  overdone.     In  filling  with  soil  put  on  to  the  crocks  a  few  of  the 

coarser  pieces  of  the  soil  first,  as  the  finer  soil  is  then  prevented 

from  washing  into  and  choking  the  rubble.  Always  use  a  proportion  of  one  part  in  ten 
or  so  of  sharp  white  sand  with  potting  soil. 

Repotting  means  the  changing  of  a  plant  from  a  small  pot  into  a  larger  one.  The 
larger  pot  should  not,  as  a  rule,  for  all  ordinary  pot  plants,  exceed  the  smaller  sizes  by 
more  than  one  size  or  two  at  the  most,  that  is  to  say,  if  the  smaller  pot  be  a  48 — that  is, 
selling  at  48  to  the  cast— it  will  be  5  inches  across  the  top  inside  measurement.  A  good 
shift  is  into  a  6-inch  pot  or  32,  or  it  may  be  needful  to  transfer  the  plant  to  an  8-inch  pot 
or  24  size.  The  plant  is  easily  removed  from  the  small  pot  by  turning  it  upside  down, 
resting  on  the  left  hand,  and  with  the  right  hand  taking  hold  of  the  inverted  pot.  Give 
the  edge  a  sharp  tap  on  a  table  or  potting  bench.  The  plant  then  slips  out  from  the  pot 
at  once.  In  refilling,  first  remove  from  the  ball  of  roots  all  drainage,  as  the  new  pot  should 
be  provided  with  fresh  drainage  before  the  plant  is  put  into  it.  In  the  case  of  a  very  hard 
ball,  some  of  the  soil  may  be  removed  with  a  pointed  stick  first.  Then  repot,  not  deep, 
but  firmly. 

Rabbit  Proof  Plants. — It  is  not  easy  to  compile  a  list  of  plants  that  rabbits  refuse  to 
touch,  for  these  pests  to  the  gardener  will  consume  almost  anything.  Plants,  too,  that 
rabbits  refuse  to  touch  in  one  neighbourhood,  because  doubtless  of  an  abundance  of  more 
appetising  food,  are  devoured  wholesale  elsewhere  ;  and  whether  the  winter  be  mild  or 
severe  is  another  point,  in  truth  during  a  very  hard  winter  everything  practically  is 
consumed.  The  following  plants,  however,  are  not  favourite  food  for  the  rabbit: — 
Azaleas,  Rhododendrons,  Spurge  Laurel,  the  Sabine  or  Juniper,  Furze,  the  Forsythias, 
Jasminum  nudiflorumt  Tree  Pseonies,  the  Snowberry  (Symphoricarpus),  Butcher's  Brooms 
(Ruscus  aculeatus  and  R,  racemosus},  Boxthorn  (Lycium  barbarum),  Spindle  Tree 
\Euonymus  europaus),  Privet,  Yuccas,  Hydrangea  Hortensia,  Wig  or  Smoke  tree  (Rhus 
Cotinus),  Box,  and  the  Hibiscus  (H.  syriacus) ;  hardy  herbaceous  plants,  Flame-flowers 
(Kniphofias,  better  known  as  Tritomas),  Irises,  Winter  Aconite,  Daffodils,  Solomon's 
Seal,  Lily  of  the  Valley,  Periwinkle,  Aquilegias  (in  variety),  Dog-tooth  violets  (Erythro- 
niums),  Scillas,  Delphiniums  (Perennial  Larkspurs),  Primroses,  Anemones,  Aubrietias, 
Violets,  Canterbury  Bells,  Foxgloves,  Poppies,  Cineraria  maritima,  Stachys  lanata 
Muscari  (Grape  Hyacinth),  and  Arabis. 

Seed  Sowing. — How  few  persons,  even  those  who  have  long  been  gardening,  seem  to 
understand  the  proper  way  to  sow  seeds.  Almost  every  one,  and  amateurs  especially, 
sow  seeds  far  too  thickly,  with  the  result  that  they  commit  a  double  fault,  for  not  only  are 
seeds  wasted,  but  much  extra  labour  is  created  in  thinning  the  seedlings.  Such  seeds  as 
vegetables  and  annual  flowers  are  generally  sown  fully  three  times  too  thick,  as  the  great 
thinning  needful  shows.  Plants  in  their  seedling  stage  are  so  crowded  that  they  are 
often  strangled  in  their  birth  as  it  were.  Seeds  sown  in  pots,  pans,  or  boxes  under  glass 
need  the  same  care  in  not  sowing  too  densely.  It  is  much  better  when  plants  have  to  be 
transplanted  to  give  them  the  chance  of  becoming  strong  before  the  change  is  made. 
Heavy  seed  sowing  benefits  the  seedsman  at  the  expense  of  the  gardener. 

Seeds,  Ordering. — All  seedsmen  issue  lists  of  their  seeds,  and  one  of  these  lists  can 
always  be  had  on  application  to  the  trader.  It  is  good  policy  to  obtain  two  or  three  lists, 
one  especially  being  from  some  first-class  firm,  because  new  things  are  more  likely  to  be 
found  in  such  a  catalogue.  Of  these  novelties  purchase  a  few  yearly  to  try  them.  Some 
will  give  great  pleasure,  some  will  be  disappointing.  Always  look  carefully  over  the  lists, 


USEFUL   HINTS  625 


write  out  clearly  on  paper  what  is  required,  and  order  in  good  time,  that  is,  several  weeks 
before  sowing,  as  it  is  so  useful  to  have  the  seeds  at  hand  when  wanted.  Do  not  order 
more  than  sufficient,  as  too  liberal  a  quantity  tends  to  encourage  thick  sowing.  Potatoes 
may  not  be  sent  out  in  hard  weather,  but  seeds  may  be  got  in  at  anytime.  Be  careful  to 
keep  them  dry. 

Shelters. — A  very  useful  hint  was  given  by  the  late  Mr.  G.  F.  Wilson  of  Wey bridge 
in  the  Garden,  when  he  wrote  that:  "  Part  of  the  garden  at  Oakwood,  Wisley,  before 
some  Poplars  grew  up,  was  much  exposed  to  high  winds,  and  for  some  plants  we  wanted 
shade,  so  the  question  of  shelter  Irom  wind  and  sun  had  to  be  considered."  After 
describing  some  methods  which  were  scarcely  satisfactory,  Mr.  Wilson  says:  "We 
at  last  arrived  at  a  shelter  which,  we  think,  practically  answers  every  purpose,  and 
is  easily  portable.  We  have  a  great  many  of  these  sort  in  use  and  have  thoroughly 
proved  them.  The  iron  hurdle  is  five  barred  ;  it  stands  3  feet  6  inches  out  of  the 
ground,  and  is  6  feet  wide;  3-feet  common  laths  are  tied  by  tarred  string  to  the 
nurdles.  two  sets,  one  above  the  other,  overlapping  about  9  inches.  This  gives  stability 
ana  a  height  of  shelter  of  5  feet  3  inches,  which  is  enough  for  most  purposes.  One  cross 
piece  is  put  above  the  hurdle  to  stiffen  the  laths.  The  laths  do  not  touch  each  other,  so 
air  passes  through  them.  The  whole  shelter,  iron,  laths,  and  twine  is  well  painted  over 
with  varnish." 

Sowing  Seeds  in  Concrete  Walls. —A  rough  concrete  wall  is  naturally  not  the  best 
place  for  sowing  seeds  in.  As  much  loamy  soil  as  possible  must  be  got  into  the  crevices, 
and  it  would  be  well  to  mix  the  seed  and  soil  and  work  them  into  together.  Autumn  is  a 
good  time  for  this  work,  so  that  the  young  plants  would  be  getting  a  good  hold  in  making 
that  slow  but  strong  winter  growth  that  seems  so  good  a  preparation  for  vigour  in  the 
coming  year.  The  following  would  be  advisable  : — 


Alyssum  saxatile 

,,        serpyllifolium 
Antirrhinum  (Snapdragon),  asarina 

and  majus,  vars. 
Arabis  alpina 
Armeria  vulgaris  (Thrift) 
Centranthus  ruber  (Red  Valerian) 
Dianthus  cagsius  (Rock  Pink) 

,,        deltoides 
Draba  aizoides 
Iberis  sempervirens 
,,      corresefolia 


Iberis  gibraltarica 
Sedum  Aizoon 

,,      anglicum 

, ,      glaucum 
Tunica  Saxifraga 
Aubrietia  graeca 
Campanula  rotundifolia 
Cerastium  tomentosum 
Corydalis  aurea 
Saponaria  calabrica 
Wallflower 


Spraying. — There  is  considerable  difference  between  syringing  and  spraying  plants. 
Syringing  cleanses  and  refreshes  the  foliage,  and  the  instrument  used  is  a  large  force 
squirt.  This  drives  the  water  either  in  one  stream  from  a  nozzle,  or  breaks  it  up  into  many 
tiny  streams  through  a  broad  perforated  nozzle  called  a  rose  ;  the  smaller  and  more  nume- 
rous these  holes  the  finer  the  tiny  streams.  When  it  is  desired  to  refresh  foliage,  the 
latter  nozzle  should  be  used  to  allow  the  water  to  fall  on  the  plants  like  gentle  rain.  When 
plants  are  dirty  and  need  washing,  then  the  other  nozzle  must  be  used,  and  the  water 
driven  on  to  them  with  great  force.  Spraying  means  the  casting  of  moisture  on  to  plants 
like  dew,  and  is  advised  when,  because  of  mildew  or  insect  attacks,  it  is  needful  to  suffuse 
the  leaves  with  some  liquid  remedy  of  a  chemical  nature.  A  proper  spraying  syringe, 
such  as  the  Abol,  with  its  curved  nozzle,  sends  the  liquid  over  the  plants  practically  like 
vapour,  and  it  does  not  run  off  them. 

Tying  Up. — It  is  impossible  to  garden  long  without  realising  that  much  tying  up  is 
needful.  Thus,  Cos  Lettuces  may  be  all  the  better  if  loosely  tied  round  to  help  them  to  form 
hearts  ;  broad-leaved  Endives  tied  up  to  cause  them  to  blanch  ;  Celery  just  before  it  is 
earthed,  loosely  tied  up  to  enable  the  earthing  to  be  neatly  done  ;  Carnations ;  all  tall 
growing  flowers ;  Dahlias,  Chrysanthemums,  and  many  similar  things,  with  climbers,  to 
sticks  or  tree  stems,  or  trellises,  &c.,  and  especially  of  plants  of  various  descriptions  in 
pots  in  the  greenhouse.  Neat  sticks  or  stakes  or  bamboo  rods  are  admirable  for  these, 
but  the  best  tying  material  is  soft,  tough  raffia  grass,  which  in  a  dry  prepared  state  may 
be  purchased  cheaply  from  seedsmen.  This  should  not  be  used  wastefully,  but  with 
care,  and  when  tied  leave  the  ends  short  and  neat.  In  many  cases  worsted  or  wool  or 
twine  may  be  used,  and  sometimes  coarse,  soft  tar  cord.  But  for  all  soft  wooded  plants 
the  raffia  is  much  the  best. 

Winter  Protection  for  Outdoor  Flowers. — It  is  well  worthwhile  to  provide  suitable 
shelters  for  the  few  outdoor  flowers  that  we  have  in  midwinter.  Of  these  one  of  the  most 
important  is  the  Yellow  Jasmine,  so  usually  grown  against  walls,  palings,  or  sheds. 
Either  the  rot-proof  Willesden  canvas  or  a  stout  quality  of  the  same  scrim  are  excellent 
materials  for  protective  coverings.  It  is  easy  to  have  a  sheet  of  this  for  each  section  of 

2  R 


626  GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 

wall  or  space  where  it  is  likely  to  be  wanted,  and  well  worth  the  trouble  of  the  slight 
preparation  needed  for  taking  on  or  off  quickly.  If  the  sheet  has  a  strong  tape  or  webbing 
sewn  to  the  top  and  a  few  stout  rings,  and  the  wall  is  provided  with  corresponding  hooks, 
it  is  soon  put  up  and  taken  down,  and  is  easily  folded  up  when  out  of  use.  If  several  of 
the  sheets  are  in  use,  it  saves  much  trouble  to  have  them  numbered  ;  best  by  paint- 
ing in  white  or  grey  a  3-inch  square  patch  in  one  top  corner,  on  which,  when  dry,  a 
number  in  darker  colour  is  painted,  also  painting  the  same  mark  on  the  wall  ;  then  there 
is  no  fumbling  about  or  loss  of  time  in  finding  out  which  sheet  is  for  which  place.  Con- 
trivances for  keeping  the  sheets  down  in  windy  weather  will  suggest  themselves  to 
intelligent  persons,  but  the  great  thing  is  to  have  the  protection  at  hand.  A  number  of 
hurdles  thatched  with  straw,  or  reeds,  or  heath  are  always  of  use  to  be  put  over  Christ- 
mas Roses,  Violets,  or  Iris  stylosa.  The  sweet  bloom  of  any  Chimonanthus  trained  to 
a  wall  shrivels  and  is  spoilt  in  severe  frost,  but  may  be  saved  by  hanging  over  the  bush 
some  boughs  of  Spruce  or  Scotch  Fir.  If  the  protecting  boughs  are  hung  up  by  their 
stem  ends  they  are  easily  lifted  or  moved  aside  so  that  the  flowers  may  be  picked. 

Watering. — Much  judgment  is  needed  in  learning  how  to  water  plants  or  crops 
properly.  Plants  in  pots  are  best  when  occasionally  allowed  to  become  root-dry,  but  only 
just  for  the  moment,  as  the  drying  of  the  soil  sweetens  it.  But  if  dry  long  the  plant 
flags  and  suffers,  and  that  should  not  be  the  case.  Then  the  soil  should  be  well  saturated, 
giving  sufficient  water  to  fill  the  pot  to  the  top  and  even  twice  filled  if  needed.  Where, 
however,  soil  seems  moderately  damp  then  dp  not  water  but  miss  that  pot.  Too  many 
people  water  all  alike  and  seldom  stop  to  consider  whether  it  is  proper  or  not.  Outdoors 
remember  that  as  a  rule  roots  go  deep,  and  that  in  dry  weather  it  is  better  to  give  a 
thorough  soaking  once  a  week  rather  than  a  moderate  watering,  which  only  moistens  a 
few  inches  deep.  After  such  good  watering  either  cast  some  dry  soil  over  it  to  prevent 
rapid  evaporation  by  sun  heat,  or  put  on  a  mulch  of  long  manure  or  cocoa-nut  fibre 
refuse. 

Window  Boxes. —  This  is  a  familiar  form  of  window  gardening.  At  one  time  the 
VVardian  case  was  very  popular.  When  the  "  box"  is  merely  a  strip  of  board  tiled  or 
coloured  in  some  way,  pot  plants  are  intended  to  be  used  ;  that  means,  of  course,  shrubs  or 
flowering  things  purchased  or  grown  in  the  greenhouse  for  the  purpose.  But  well-drained 
boxes  of  soil,  such  as  one  would  put  a  Geranium  in,  are  suitable  for  the  growth  of  many 
plants  and  bulbs.  Daffodils,  Tulips,  Scillas,  Chionodoxes,  Snowdrops,  &c. ,  are  pretty  for 
the  spring,  planting  them  the  previous  autumn.  We  have  seen,  too,  the  exquisite  early- 
flowering  Irises  grown  in  this  way  by  an  enthusiast  who  had  no  suitable  place  in  the 
garden,  but  would  not  be  without  his  cherished  bulbs.  The  Netted  Iris  (/.  reticulata), 
a  full  violet  purple  and  filled  with  strong  violet  scent  ;  /.  bakeriana,  and  the  little  yellow 
/.  Danfordice  maybe  grown  in  this  way.  Of  course,  this  form  of  gardening  is  not  for  the 
usual  run  of  flower  lovers.  They  must  place  their  faith  in  the  Musk,  the  Periwinkle, 
Creeping  Jenny;  and  for  temporary  effect  the  Zonal  Pelargonium  or  "Geranium,"  Fuchsias, 
Petunias  (very  free-blooming  and  bright  flowers,  even  in  quite  hot  positions).  We  must 
point  out  the  importance  of  the  quite  dwarf  things,  the  Mossy  Saxifrage  (Saxifraga 
hypnoides],  the  large,  white-flowered  S.  Wallacei,  or  Stonecrops,  which  look  well  with 
bulbs  planted  between. 

During  winter  make  good  use  of  quite  dwarf  evergreen  shrubs,  such  as  Cryptomeria 
japonica  (a  Conifer),  but  better  still  Aucuba,  Box,  or  Laurel,  as  Conifers,  in  places  near 
towns,  often  fail. 

When  the  position  is  very  sunny  the  soil  dries  in  the  pots  quickly,  and  constant  atten- 
tion will  be  needful,  not  forgetting  also  the  importance  of  stimulants  occasionally. 

Wood  Frames. — Frames  of  moderate  size  and  having  glass  lights  for  tops  are  most 
useful  in  gardens.  Although  not  generally  available  for  forcing  except  on  dung  beds, 
they  are  excellent  to  raise  seeds  in,  to  winter  many  fairly  hardy  plants,  such  as 
Lettuces,  Cauliflowers,  Cabbage,  Radishes,  &c. ,  and  to  plant  out  Potatoes  in  March 
for  early  cropping.  Also  may  be  wintered  in  them  many  fairly  hardy  plants,  es- 
pecially if  covered  up  with  mats  or  sacks,  during  hard  frosty  weather.  Where  stable 
manure  can  be  obtained  and  hot-beds  made  up  in  the  spring  tender  seeds  may  be  raised 
in  a  frame,  cuttings  rooted,  or  Cucumbers  grown  on.  Frames  of  this  kind  should  be  kept 
vrry  clean,  and  especially  the  glass,  and  all  the  woodwotk  should  receive  a  couple  of  coats 
of  paint  every  t  wo  years  at  least. 


INDEX 


See  also  List  of  English  Names  for  Wild  and  Garden  Flowers,  pp.  531-541 


ABELIAS,    212 ;    A.    rupestris   for   green- 
house, 594 
Abies,    592;    for   rock   garden,    146;    A. 

amabilis,  593;   A.  cephalonia,  593;   A. 

con  color,    593 ;     A.    nobilis,    593 ;     A.    j 

nordmanniana,  593 
Abronia  umbellata,  148 
Abutilon ;   some  good  kinds  of,   293  ;    A.    | 

vitifolium,  594 
Acacias,  Hardy,  254;  for  the  greenhouse,   | 

293;  A.  armata,  594;  A.  dealbata,  293; 

North  American  Rose,  254;    A.,  Rose, 

590 
Acaena  Buchanani,  165;  A.  inermis,  165; 

A.  michrophylla,  550 ;  A.  pulchella,  165 
Acantholimon   glumaceum,  141,  550;   A. 

venustum,  550 
Acanthuses,  555,  596 
Acers,  213;    A.  japonica  aurea,   266;    A. 

negundo,  215 ;  A.  negundo  Californica 

Aurea,    266 ;     A.    negundo    variegata,    ! 

265 
Achilleas    for    rock    gardens,     550 ;     A. 

mpngolica,  555  ;  A.  Ptarmica,  555 
Achimenes,  293,  294,  600 
Acis,  97 

Aconite,  555  ;  Winter,  97,  98 
Acroclinium,  53,  542 
Actinidias,  215 
Adam's  needle,  260 
Adonis  amurensis,  141 ;  A.  vernalis,  550 ; 

A.  pyrenaica,  550 
^Egle  Sepiaria,  215 
^Enothera,  569 
/Esculus  carnea  Briotii,  591 ;  ^E.  Hippoca- 

stanum,  215 

^Ethionema  grandiflora,  141,  550 
African  Lily,  294,  595  ;  Marigold,  548 
Agapanthus  varieties  of,  294  ;  A.   Umbel-    j 

latus,  595 

Agathasa  coelestis,  294 
Agave  americana,  294 
Ageratum  as  an  edging,  65  ;  for  summer 

bedding,  64 
Agriotes  lineatus,  132  ;    A.  pulchella,  53, 

549 

Ailanthus  glandulosa,  216 
Ajugas  for  rock  gardens,  550 
Akebia  quinata,  216,  595 
Alder-leaved  Pepper  Tree,  227 


Algerian  Iris,  21 

Allamanda,  600 

Allium  neapolitanum,  595 

Allspice,  varieties  of,  224  ;  Western,  224 

Almond,  bitter,  247;  Dwarf,  for  green- 
house, 594 ;  planting  for  garden  orna- 
ments, 479 

Almond  Tree,  Common,  and  Varieties,  247, 
59i 

Aloe,  American,  294 

Alonsoa  Warscewiczii ,  148 

Aloysia  citriodora,  294,  295 

Alpine  anemones,  3  ;  raising  from  seed,  4  ; 
Asters,  dwarf,  558 ;  Auricula,  16 ;  Forget- 
me-not,  552;  toadflax,  552;  Wallflower, 
551 ;  Windflower,  550 

Alpine  garden,  cold  greenhouse  as  an, 
35i 

Alpine  plants,  a  selection  of  rock  and,  141, 
S50-5S4;  Alpines,  best  fifty  for  small 
gardens,  140;  Dwarf  varieties,  558; 
in  the  paved  garden,  165,  166 ;  pro- 
tected against  wind  and  rain,  142 ; 
soil  for,  142  ;  trailing,  141 ;  under  glass, 
157 

Alstroemerias,  555  ;  A.  pelegrina  alba,  595 

Althea  rosea,  19  ;  shrubbery,  237 

Alyssum  in  mixed  border,  40 ;  A.  odor- 
atum,  542  ;  A.  Little  Gem,  542  ;  A.  saxa- 
tile,  550 ;  A.  Sweet,  52 

Amaranthus  (see  Love-Lies-Bleeding),  545 

Amaryllis,  305;  A.  Belladonna,  98;  A. 
formossissimus,  595 

Amelanchiers,  217 ;  A.  canadensis,  591 

American  arbor  vitse,  594;  Blackberry, 
486  ;  Cowslip,  560  ;  Oak,  Golden-leaved, 
265;  Oak,  Scarlet,  249;  Silk  Grass, 
North,  261 ;  Silver  Bell  Tree,  237 

American  blight,  to  destroy,  490 

Amorphas,  217 

Ampelopsis,  278 

Amygdalus  nanus  for  greenhouse,  594 

Anagallis,  149;  A.  linifolia  coerulea,  54; 
A.  tenella,  168 

Andromeda  polifolia,  218 

Androsaces,  141,  550  ;  for  moraine  garden, 
156 

Anemone  alpina  and  its  allies,  3;  apen- 
nina,  5;  fulgens,  7;  nemorosa  Allenii, 
141 ;  Snowdrop,  5  ;  sylvestris  major,  141 


627 


628 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


Anemones,  3,  5,  98,  152,  157,  550;  alpine, 
3;  alpine,  raising  from  seed,  4;  appe- 
nine,  5;  florists,  8;  for  the  greenhouse, 
595;  for  the  rock  garden,  152,  550; 
Japanese,  555 ;  selection  of  Hardy  Per- 
ennial, 555 ;  soil  for,  3-8 ;  under  glass, 
157 ;  Wood,  for  shady  places,  3 

Angels'  Tears,  158 

Anguloa,  320 

Animal  manures,  381 

Annuals,  50;  as  foliage  plants,  52;  Blue- 
flowered,  53;  Climbers,  549;  Crimson- 
flowered,  55;  designs  for  beds  of,  62, 
63;  for  the  rock  garden,  148,  149; 
Half-hardy,  55 ;  Hardy,  cultivation  of, 
51 ;  Hardy,  grouping  for  colour  effect, 
53 ;  Indian  Pinks  as,  149 ;  in  town 
gardens,  197 ;  List  of,  542-549 ;  mean- 
ing of  term,  542 ;  Pink-flowered,  54 ; 
prostrate  growing,  54;  soil  for,  50; 
sowing,  51  ;  Time  of  flowering  of,  542- 
548  ;  Yellow  and  Orange-flowered,  54 

Annual  grasses,  549 

Annual  Larkspurs  for  the  Rock  Garden, 
148 

Anoiganthus  brevifolius,  595 

Anomatheca  cruenta,  595 

Anson's  pea,  Lord,  544 

Antennaria  tomentosa,  550 

Anthemis  Aizoon,  141,  156;  A.  Kelwayi, 
542 

Anthericums,  556 

Anthurium  chrystallinum,  600;  A.  lilias- 
trum,  595;  A.  Scherzerianum ,  600 

Anthyllis  montana,  550 

Antirrhinums,  8,  148 ;   raising  from  seed, 

8,9 

Aphelandra  aurantiaca,  600 

Aphides,  79,  132,  490 

Aphis,  auricula,  15 

Aponogeton  distachyon,  593 

Appenine  anemones,  5  ;  windflower,  5 

Apple  blossom  weevil,  492  ;  canker,  425 

Apple,  Crab,  as  sauce  for  game,  263 ;  as 
stocks  for  apple  trees,  423,  481 ;  beauti- 
ful kinds  of,  262;  Dartmouth,  262; 
Jam  and  Jelly,  method  of  making,  263  ; 
Mammoth,  262;  Siberian,  262;  sweet 
scented,  249 ;  useful  for  decoration, 
263 

Apples,  420;  Bush,  423;  Cordon,  423; 
Crab,  beautiful,  262 ;  Espalier,  424 ; 
forms  of,  423 ;  grafting,  426,  481 ;  how 
to  purchase  trees,  421 ;  planting,  421 ; 
pruning,  424  ;  pyramid,  423  ;  root  prun- 
ing, 425;  selection  of  cooking,  606; 
selection  of  dessert,  605  ;  summer  prun- 
ing, 425;  Standard,  423;  winter  prun- 
ing, 425 

Appliances,  importance  of  labour-saving, 
526 

Apricots,  247,  486 

April,  work  in  the  garden  in,  497;  work 
on  Roses  in,  91 

Aquilegias,  10  ;  A.  coerulea,  550,  597; 
as  greenhouse  plants,  10 ;  for  rock 


gardens,    550;     hardy    perennial,    556; 

raising  from  seed,  10 
Arabis,    138,    550;    A.    albida,    555;    A. 

alpina    as    an   edging,    61 ;    for   spring 

bedding,  61 
Aralia,     600;     A.     chinensis,     218;      A. 

japonica,  596  ;  A.  Sieboldi,  295 
Araucaria  excelsa,   295,    593  ;  greenhouse 

varieties  of,  295  ;  A.  imbricata,  592 
Arbor  vitae,  594 

Arbutuses,  218,  219  ;  A.  Unedo,  591 
Arches,  Roses  for,  575 
Architectural  character  of  gardens,  164 
Arctotis  aspera,  597 
Arenaria    balearica,    140,    165,    550;    A. 

grandiflora,  550  ;  A.  montana,  141 
Aristolochia  Sipho,  272 
Armeria  alpina  rosea,  550 
Arnebia  echioides,  141,  556 
Arnott,  Mr.  S.,  quoted,  140 
Arrangement  of  colour  in  mixed  border, 

38 

Arrow-head,  170  ;  double  white,  593 
Artemisia  splendens,  156  ;  tridentata,  266 
Artichokes,  Globe,  397  ;  sowing  of,  397, 

613  ;  Jerusalem,  397,  613 
Artificial  manures,  381 
Arum  Lily,  171,  312,  593 
Arundinaria  (see  also  Bamboos) ,  culture  of, 

220 ;  Dwarf,  220 ;  A.  Falconeri,  220  ;  use 

in  water  garden,  170 
Arundos,  219 
Ash,  Common,  235,  591  ;  Flowering,  236; 

Mountain,  209,  249 
Asparagus,  culture  of,  397,  398,  613 
Asparagus  Fern,  in  greenhouse,  295 ;  A. 

verticillatus,     596;     best    varieties    of, 

295 

Aspen,  591 
Asperula  Athoa,    156 ;   A.   azurea  setosa, 

54  ;  A.  Gussonii,  165  ;  A.  hirta,  165  ;  A. 

suberosa,  141 
Aspidistra  lurida,   culture    of,   295,    596 ; 

variegated,  295 
Asters,  10,  65,  542  ;  China,  in  mixed  border, 

40;  Dwarf  Alpine,  558;    Novae  Anglise 

type,  558  ;  Novi  Belgi  type  and  hybrid 

varieties,  557;  Starwortsand  Michaelmas 

Daisies,  556;  suitable  positions  for,  n  ; 

A.  Alpinus,  156,  ^50;   A.    sinensis,   54, 

542 

Astragalus  dasyglottis,  550 
Astrantia  major,  551 
|    Atriplex  Halimus,  266 
I    Aubretia  deltoides  for  spring  bedding,  61 ; 

varieties  of,  138,  551  ;  A.  Dr.  Mules,  141  ; 

A.  Moerheimii,  141 

j    Aucubas,   592,  596 ;   good   for  town  gar- 
dens, 219  ;  A.  japonica,  219 
August,  work  in  the  garden  in,  500;  work 

on  Roses  in,  93 

Auricula  Society,  National,  12 
Auriculas,  11-17,  *96;  Alpine,  16 ;  Aphis, 

15  ;  best  varieties  of,  16  ;  classes  of,  12  ; 

cultural  notes,  13  ;  general  culture,  14  ; 

Green-edged,  Grey-edged,  White  edged 


INDEX 


629 


and  selfs,  12;  history  of,  n  ;  insect  pests 

of,  16 ;  in  the  border,  17 ;   propagation 

of  by  seed,  14 
Austrian  pine,  591,  594 
Autumn  Crocus,  100 
Autumn,  rock  garden  plants  flowering   in 

early,  144 
Azaleas  (see  also  Rhododendrons),  250,  251 , 

295,  296,592;  deciduous  varieties  of,  251  ; 

evergreen  varieties  of,  252  ;  greenhouse, 

295,  296,  595;  grouping  of,  251  ;  hardy, 

251 ;  hybrids,  252 
Azaras,  219  ;  A.  Microphylla,  272 

BALM,  Bee-,  568 

Balsam,  306,  542 

Bamboo  Blinds,  523 

Bamboos  (see  also  Arundinaria),  170,  220; 
culture  of,  220  ;  Dwarf  varieties  of,  220  ; 
Golden,  221 ;  B.  pygmaea,  suitable  for 
wild  garden  and  edges,  220 

Bane,  Flea,  560 

Banks,  planting  a  steep  sunny,  623  ;  Plant- 
ing of  sloping,  623 

Barberry,  the  Common,  222;  Coral,  272; 
Darwin's,  222;  Purple,  266;  see  also 
Berberis 

Barberton  Daisy,  305 

Bark,  trees  and  shrubs  with  conspicuous, 
591 ;  colours  of,  204 

Barley  grass,  549 

Baskets,  ferns  for  hanging,  345 ;  Ivy- 
leaved  Pelargoniums  in,  309  ;  Lobelias 
in,  307 

Bastard  trenching,  67 

Batavian  endive,  406 

"  Batter,"  162 

Bay,  Sweet,  241 

Beam  tree,  the  Nepaul  White,  249 

Bean,  Bog,  171 ;  weevil,  491 

Bean  tree,  Golden-leaved  Indian,  265  ;  the 
Indian,  225 

Beans,  398,  613  ;  Broad,  398,  613  ;  Climb- 
ing, 398,  613 ;  culture  of,  398  ;  Kidney 
Dwarf,  398,  613 ;  runner,  398,  613 ; 
various  kinds  of,  398,  613 

Beard,  Turkey,  574 

Bearded  Iris,  19 

Bear's  Breach,  555 

Beautiful  Crab-apples,  262 

Beckett,  Mr.  of  Aldenham  Park  Gardens, 
ii 

Bed,  hot,  621 ;  Tulip,  plan  of,  120 

Bedding,  examples  of,  60-66 ;  Hybrid  Tea 
Roses  for,  576 ;  plants,  oblong  bed  for, 
64;  Spring,  bulbs  for,  61,  62;  plans  for, 
61,  62  ;  plants  for,  61 ;  Summer,  annuals 
for,  84 ;  plans  for,  62-65 ;  plants  for, 
63-65  ;  Winter,  Shrubs  for,  592 

Bedding-out,  meaning  of  term,  504 

Beds,  effective  ways  of  planting,  61-63 

Bee-balm,  568 

Beech,  the,  591,  592;  purple-leaved,  265; 
Fern,  340 

Beet,  the,  399-400,  613;  culture  of,  400; 
tapering,  400 


Begonias,  fibrous-rooted,  163,  297;  fibrous- 
rooted,  distance  apart  to  plant,  63 ;  for 
stove  use,  601  ;  for  summer  bedding,  63  ; 
raising  from  seed,  296;  tuberous,  63, 
296 ;  tuberous,  distance  apart  to  plant, 
63 ;  varieties  of,  296,  297,  298  ;  winter 
flowering,  297 

Belladonna  Lily,  98 

Bell-flower,  299,  559  ;  Alpine,  551 

Bell,  Golden,  235 

Bells,  Canterbury,  17,  299 

Bell  Tree,  American  Silver,  237 

Berberidopsis  corallina,  272 

Berberis,  the,  varieties  of,  221,  591  ;  for 
greenhouse,  594;  for  rock  gardens, 
146 ;  for  small  gardens,  591 ;  B.  aqui- 
folium,  592 ;  B.  Darwinii,  591,  592,  594; 
B.  stenophylla,  591 ;  B.  vulgar  is  foliis 
purpureis,  266 

Bermuda  Buttercup,  809 

Bethlehem,  Star  of,  116,  596 

Betula  alba,  591  ;  B.  alba  pendula,  591 ; 
B.  alba  Youngii,  591 

Bhotan  Pine,  594 

Bignonia  capreolata,  272 

Bindweed,  163 

Birch,  White,  591 

Bird  Cherry,  248 

Birds,  protecting  lawns  from,  when  sown, 
187 

Bitter  almond,  247 

Bizarres  and  Flakes,  128 

Blackberry  l(see  also  Bramble),  485, 
486 

Black-eyed  Susan,  549 

Black  Currant,  468 ;  selection  of,  612 ; 
Gall  Mite,  493 

Black  spot  on  Roses,  80  ;  vine  weevil,  491, 
492 

Bladder,  Nuts,  257  ;  Sennas,  228 

Blanching,  meaning  of  term,  504 

Blandfordias,  595 

Blechnum  Spicant,  340 

Bleeding  Heart,  the,  316,  506 

Blight,  American,  490 

Blinds,  Bamboo,  523 

Bluebell,  the,  116 

Blue  Cupidone,  559  ;  flowered  annuals,  53  ; 
Gum,  303 ;  Hydrangeas,  523 ;  Lobelia, 

64,  307 

Bocconia  cordata,  559 

Bog  Bean,  171 

Bog  garden  and  its  formation,  166 ;  plants 
for  the,  168 

"  Bonding,"  161 

Bordeaux  Mixture,  413,  494,  495 

Border,  36  ;  arrangement  of  colour  in,  38  ; 
Auriculas  in  the,  17  ;  Carnations  in,  122, 
124 ;  choice  of  plants  for  the,  38  ;  Daf- 
fodils for  the,  116;  mulching  the,  42; 
Narcissi  for  the,  116;  Narrow,  on  a 
Lawn,  63;  Oriental  Poppies  for  the 
mixed  or  herbaceous,  28 ;  planting  and 
sheltering  an  exposed,  622  ;  planting  the 
mixed,  38;  plants,  staking,  42;  Re- 
planting or  Renovating  the,  41 ;  soil  for 


630 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


the,  37  ;  time  for  making  the,  57 ;  Tulips, 

selection  of,  for  the,  120 
Border,  the  Mixed,  36-40 
Borecole,  402,  613 
Boronia,  varieties  of,  298 
Botanising,  injudicious,  523 
Bottle  Brush  Plant,  299 
Bottle  grafting,  452 
Bouganvillea  glabra,  601 
Bouvardias,  298 
Bower,  Virgin's,  273 
Box,    223,    591,    592;     edging,    63;     the 

Minorca,  224  ;  variegated,  266 
Box  Tree,  European  277  ;  varieties,  223 
Box-leaved  Milkwort,  the,  247 
Boxes,  window,  309,  626;  shrubs  for,  592 
Brachycome  iberidifolia,  54 
Bracken  Fern,  334,  340  ;  planting  Heather 

and, 525 
Bramble,  255,  485  ;  Japanese,  255  ;  planting 

on   pergolas   and    pillars,   255 ;    Rocky 

Mountain,  255  ;  Whitewashed  stemmed, 

the,  255 
Briars,  Budding  Standard,  77  ;  for  exposed 

hedges,  625 
Bristle  Fern,  347 
Briza  maxima,  53,  549 
Broad  Beans,  398,  613 
Broccoli,  400,  613 
Brompton  Stocks,  34 
Broom,    230,    268,    302 ;     Spanish,    256 ; 

varieties  of,  230;    White,  230;  Yellow, 

230 

Browallia,  298 
Brugmansias,  594 
Brussels  Sprouts,  400,  401,  613 
Bryan  thus  erectus,  223 
Buckbean,  593 
Buckeye,  Sweet,  216 
Buckler  Fern,  and  varieties,  339 
Buckthorn,  592 ;  the  Sea,  238,  591 
Budding,  meaning  of  term,  504 ;  Roses,  75, 

77 

Buddleia  globosa,  223 

Bug,  mealy,  367,  454 

Building  dry  walls,  161-3 

Bulb  mite,  the,  492 

Bulbocodium  Vernum,  98,  551 

Bulbous  flowers,  96 

Bulbs  for  the  cold  greenhouse,  595;  for 
the  rock  garden,  151  ;  for  the  town 
garden,  197 ;  in  fibre,  315  ;  in  glasses, 
107  ;  meaning  of  term,  505  ;  planting  in 
grass,  524 ;  some  places  to  put,  97  ;  treat- 
ment of,  after  flowering,  616 

Bullaces  in  small  orchard,  481 

Bunyard,  Mr.,  quoted,  262,  485 

Buphthalmum  speciosum,  559 

Burning  Bush,  560 

Bush  Honeysuckles,  232  ;  Poppy,  Califor- 
nian,  254 

Bushes,  Roses  as  large,  583 

Butomus  umbellatus,  171 

Buttercup,  554,  596 ;  Bermuda,  309 

Button-hole  Roses  for  outdoor  culture,  584 

Buxus,  223  ;  B.  sempervivens,  266,  591 


99 


CABBAGE,  Red,  401 ;  various  kinds  of,  401, 
402,  614  ;  Fly,  490  ;  Lettuce,  407,  614 

Cacalia  cpccinea,  150 

Cacti,  Climbing,  367,  369;  for  amateurs, 
366  ;  cultivation,  366  ;  hardy,  370  ;  insect 
pests  infecting,  367  ;  in  the  garden,  369  ; 
night  flowering,  367;  propagation,  368  ; 
suitable  selection  of,  367-371 

Cactus  dahlias,  102 

Cassalpinia  japonica,  224 

Caladium,  602 

Calceolarias,  298,  299  ;  for  summer  bed- 
ding, 64,  299;  raising  from  seed,  298; 
suitable  for  bedding,  299  ;  C.  alba,  597  ; 
C.  violacea,  597 

Calendar  of  simple  monthly  work,  496-503 

Calendulas,  542 

Californian  Bush  Poppy,  254  ;  Tulips,  98 

Calla  (see  Richardia),  312 

Calliopsis,  54,  55,  542  ;  C.  atrosanguinea, 

65 

Callistemon  salignus,  299 

Calluna  vulgaris,  179,  224 

Calochorti,  the,  98 

Caltha  polypetala,  171,  593 

Calycanthuses,  the,  224 

Calystegia  pubescens  flore  pleno,  272 

Camassia  esculenta,  559  ;  C.  Leitchlini, 

Camellias  for  greenhouse,  299,  594;  for 
planting  outdoors,  525 ;  varieties  of,  299 

Campanulas,  559,  597 ;  for  the  moraine 
garden,  156  ;  varieties  of,  165,  166,  299, 
300  ;  C.  alpina,  551;  C.  garganica  hirsuta, 
141,  551;  C,  Medium,  17;  C.  porten- 
schlagiana  major,  141 ;  pusilla,  165  ;  C. 
pulla,  165,  166;  C.  pyramidalis,  299; 
C.  Stansfieldii,  165 ;  C.  waldsteiniana, 
165;  C.  Miss  Willmott,  165,  166;  C. 
G.  F.  Wilson,  166 

Campernelle  Jonquil,  115,  116 

Campion,  567 

Canary  Creeper,  542,  549 

Candytuft,  53,  150,  542,  552  , 597,  in  the 
mixed  border,  40;  in  the  rock  garden, 

150 

Canker  Apple,  425  ;  on  Roses,  80 

Cannas  for  the  greenhouse,  300,  595 

Canterbury  Bells,  17,  299  ;  raising  from 
seed,  17 

Cape  Hyacinth,  596 ;  Cape  Pond-flower, 
593  ;  Cape  Primrose,  307 

Caraganas,  the,  224 

Cardinal  and  Yellow  Willows,  593 

Cardoons,  402 

Carex,  300 ;  C.  japonica,  596 

Carnation  fly,  490 ;  "  Grass,"  124  ;  maggot, 
132 ;  Wild,  122  ;  Carnations  and  Pico- 
tees,  122-133  ;  Bizarres  and  Flakes,  128  ; 
border,  122  ;  border,  propagation  and 
culture  of,  124 ;  cross  fertilisation  of, 
123;  diseases  and  insect  pests,  131; 
fancy,  127;  layering,  125;  Malmaison, 
129  ;  Marguerite,  133,  597  ;  raising  from 
seed,  123;  "Selfs,"  varieties  of,  127; 
tree  and  perpetual  flowering,  130  ;  where 
to  plant,  126 


INDEX 


Carnation  flowered  poppy,  546 

Carpentaria  Californica,  225 

Carpet  plants,  551 

Carriage  Drives  and  Roads,  395 

Carrots,  culture  of,  402,  614;  main  crop, 

402 

Caryopteris  Mastacanthus,  225 
Cassandra  calyculata,  225 
Cassia  corymbosa,  300,  594 
Cassinia  fulvida,  225 
Castor  Oil  Plant,  312 
Catalpa,  225  ;  C.  bignonoides,  225,  591  ; 

C.  bignonoides  aurea,  265  ;  C.  cordifolia 

speciosa,  225 
Catananche  caerulea,  559 
Catchfly  for  rock  gardens,  554 
Caterpillars,  488 
Cat's  Ear,  the,  550 
Cattleyas,  320,  330;  C.  citrina,  325 
Caucasian  Walnut,  247 
Cauliflowers,  culture  of,  403,  614 
Caustic  alkali  wash,  495 
Ceanothus,  226,  268  ;  pruning,  268 
Cedar,    deodar,    593 ;     Japan,    593 ;      of 

Lebanon,  593 
Celastrus  articulatus,   272 ;    C.   scandens, 

272 

Celeriac,  405 
Celery,  culture  of,  404,  614;   Celery  fly, 

490 
Celosias,  300 ;   C.  arcturus,  300,  597 ;   C. 

cretica,  300  ;  C.  pyramidalis,  542 
Centaurea,  varieties  of,  559 ;    C.  Cyanus, 

54,  543  ;  C.  ragusina,  596 
Centipedes,  usefulness  of,  492 
Centranthus,  559 
Century  Plant,  294 
Cerastium  pennsylvanicum,  163 ;  C.  tomen- 

tosum,  196 

Ceratostigma  plumbaginoides,  553,  570 
Cercis  Siliquastrum,  226 
Cereus,  367,  371 

Chamaerops  excelsa,  596 ;  C.  nanus,  147 
Cheiranthus  Allionii,  166;  C.  alpinus,  551, 

597;  C.  Cheiri,  559,  597 
Chelone  Lyoni,  560;  C.  obliqua,  560 
Chemical  manures,  381 
Cherries,  248,  427 ;  different  forms  of  trees, 

428  ;  for  garden  planting,  248  ;  Kentish, 

428 ;    Morello,   428  ;    selection  of,  610  ; 

trees,    248 ;    varieties    for    pot    culture, 

485 

Cherry  apple,  262;  Bird,  the  European, 
248;  Blossom,  beauty  of,  480;  Cor- 
nelian, the,  228 ;  Double  White,  591  ; 
Jam,  428  ;  Mahaleb,  the,  248  ;  Pie,  305  ; 
winter,  570 

Chestnuts,  Horse,  215;  Red -flowered 
Horse,  591 

Chicory,  or  Witloof,  405 

Chile  Pine,  593 

Chimney  Bellflower,  299 

Chimonanthus  fragrans,  226 ;  C.  grandi- 
florus,  273 

China  Asters,  55  ;  in  mixed  borders,  40 

China  Roses,  88 


Chinese  Paeonies,  22 ;  Primulas,  varieties 

of,  311 

Chionanthus  virginicus,  227 
Chionodoxa,  97,  99,  141,  595  I  C.  luciliae 

for  rock  gardens,  551  ,  C.  gigantea,  141, 

SSi 

Choisya  ternata,  227,  591,  592,  594 

Chorizema,  301 

Christmas  Rose,  563 

Christy,  Mr.  E.  H.,  quoted,  56 

Chrysanthemum,  the,  353-365;  Annual, 
64,543;  border  varieties,  Early-Flowering, 
599;  buds  and  their  development,  361, 
362  ;  bush  plants,  363 ;  incurved  varieties 
for  decoration  and  exhibition,  598  ;  in- 
curved varieties,  twenty,  365 ;  insect 
pests  infecting  the,  360,  361 ;  Japanese 
varieties  for  decoration  and  exhibition, 
598 ;  Japanese  varieties,  thirty,  364 ; 
Large  Anemones,  598 ;  Large-flowered 
Japanese  Anemones,  598;  Large- 
flowered  singles,  598 ;  Miniature- 
flowered  Pompons,  598  ;  Outdoor  Pom- 
pons, 599 ;  Pompon  Anemones,  598  ; 
Pompons,  598  ;  propagation  by  cuttings, 
355;  reflexed  varieties,  598;  repotting 
young  plants,  357;  selections  of  various 
kinds  of,  598  ;  Single-flowered  varieties, 
twelve,  365 ;  Small-flowered  Single 
varieties,  599;  terminal  buds,  362;  Thread  - 
petalled  varieties,  six,  598  ;  under  glass, 
treatment  of,  364;  varieties  for  decora- 
tion and  cut  blooms,  365  ;  various  classes 
°f»  353  J  C.  frutescens,  307 ;  C.  maxi- 
mum, 560;  C.  tricolor,  543 

Chrysanthemum  cuttings,  best,  the,  354 ; 
best  place  for  propagation,  356;  cold 
frames  for,  358  ;  how  to  obtain  good, 
352  ;  repotting,  357,  358 ;  soil  for,  355  ; 
treatment  of  young,  356 

Cinerarias,  301,  597  ;  C.  maritima,  597 

Cistuses,  Gum,  227;  for  the  rock  garden, 
147;  C.  lusitanicus,  594;  C.  purpureus, 

594 

Clammy  honeysuckle,  251 
Clarkia  elegans,  54,  543  ;  C.  integripetala, 

54;  C.  pulcherrima,  54 
Clay  soil,  375 
Cleansing  plants,  616 
Clematis     for     greenhouse,     301,     595 ; 

varieties  of,  273,  274,  275;  C.  cocinea, 

147 ;  C.  indivisa,  301 ;  C.  lobata,  301 
Clerodendron    Thomsonae,    602 ;    C.    tri- 

chotomum,  227 
Clethras,  227 
Clianthus  puniceus,  594 
Climbers    Annual,    549;    for  greenhouse, 

595 ;    for  town   gardens,    199 ;    Hardy, 

272  ;  Roses  as,  73  ;  Roses  under  glass  as, 

82 
Climbing    Beans,   398,    613;    Cacti,  367, 

369 ;     Roses    for    greenhouse    roof    or 

pillars,  577 

Clivia  miniata,  306,  595 
Clove,  crimson,  201 
Cluster,  meaning  of  term,  508 


632 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


Coast,  Evergreen  trees  and  shrubs  for, 
S9i 

Cobaea  scandens,  301 

Cob  Nuts  (see  Nuts),  475 

Cockchafers  (see  Insect  Pests),  488 

Cockscomb,  300,  543 

Cockspur  thorn,  229 

Codiaeum,  602 

Colchicum,  too,  151 ;  C.  autumnale,  551 

Cold  greenhouse,  the  (see  also  Greenhouse 
and  Conservatory),  348;  as  Alpine 
garden,  351 ;  Bulbs  and  Tubers  for, 
595  ;  Climbers  for,  595  ;  foliage  plants 
for,  596;  miscellaneous  pot  plants  for, 
597  ;  shrubby  plants  for,  594 ;  ventilating 
and  shading,  351 

Coleridge,  Captain,  quoted,  254 

Coleus,  302 

Colewort,  402 

Collinsia  bicolor,  543 

Colour,  arrangement  of,  in  mixed  border, 
38  ;  effect,  grouping  Hardy  Annuals  for, 
53;  intergrouping  plants  of  same,  40; 
of  tree  barks,  204;  schemes,  39,  53, 

120 

Coloured -leaved  trees  and  shrubs,  grouping 

of,  205 
Columbines,    10,    550,   556,    597 ;    raising 

from  seed,  10 
Coluteas ,  228 

Compost,  meaning  of  term,  505 
Concrete  walls,  sowing  seeds  in,  625 
Conifers,  592  ;   Low-growing  shrubs  and, 

for  rock  garden,  592  ;  seeds  of,  208 
Conservatory   (see  Greenhouse  and  Con- 
servatory), 281-292 
Convallaria  majalis,  315;  C.  polygonum, 

152 
Convolvulus  althaeoides,  163  ;  C.  Cneorum, 

597  ;  C.  mauritanicus,  560 
Cooking,  selection  of  apples  for ,  606  ;  pears 

for,  608  ;  plums  for,  609 
Coops  for  protecting  flowers  in  the  winter, 

617 

Coral  Barberry,  the,  272 
Corbularia,  158 
Cordon,  meaning  of  term,  505 
Cordyline  australis,  302 
Coreopsis,  47,  54,  55 ;  C.  lanceolata  gran- 

diflora,  560 
Cork  Oak,  the,  250 
Cornelian  Cherry,  228 
Cornflower,  543 
Cornish  Heath,  the,  183 
Corn,  Sweet,  308 
Cornus,  228,  592 ;  C.  alba,  591  ;  C.  albtts 

sibirica  variegata,  266  ;  C.  alba  Spaethii, 

266  ;  C.  controversa  variegata,  266 
Coronilla  glauca,  594 
Corsican  Heath,  the,  185  ;  Pine,  594 
Corydalis,  140 ;  C.  bulbosa,  98  ;  C.  nobilis, 

S5i 

Corylopsis,  228 
Corylus  maxima  atropurpurea,  266 ;  C.  avel- 

lana  aurea,  266 
Cos  lettuce,  407,  614 


Cosmos,  51 ;  C.  bipinnatus,  543 

Cotoneasters,  228,  591 ;  for  the  rock 
garden,  147;  C.  micro phylla,  592 

Cotton,  Lavender,  266 

Covering  for  close  north  fence,  617 

Cowslip,  American,  560;  Virginian,  97 

Crab-apple,  as  sauce  for  game,  263  ;  as 
stocks  for  apple  trees,  423,  481  ;  beauti- 
ful kinds  of,  262  ;  Dartmouth,  262  ;  Jam 
and  Jelly,  method  of  making,  263 ; 
Mammoth,  262;  Siberian,  262;  Sweet 
scented,  249  ;  useful  for  decoration,  263 

Cradle  Orchid,  the,  320 

Crane-fly,  493 

Crassuta  coccinea,  302 

Crataegus,  229,  591 ;  C.  oxyacantha  aurea, 
265 

Creeper,  Canary,  549  ;  Virginian,  278 

Creeping  Alpines,  141  ;  Forget-me-not, 
553.  5^9  ;  Jenny,  196;  Roses,  85;  Winter- 
berry,  236 

Cress,  Rock,  550  ;  Mustard  and,  for  small 
salads,  414;  Violet,  159;  White  Rock,  196 

Cretan  Tulip,  158 

Crevices,  planting,  164 

Crimson-coloured  Annuals,  55 ;  Crimson 
Clove,  201 

Crinodendron  hookerianum,  147 

Crinum  Moorei,  595  ;  C.  Powelli,  595 

Crocosmia  aurea,  595 

Crocuses,  too,  158  ;  Autumn,  100 ;  for 
greenhouse,  595  ;  under  glass,  158  ;  C. 
speciosus,  141,  551 

Cropping  the  kitchen  garden,  389,  392 

Cross-fertilisation,  of  Carnations,  123  ; 
meaning  of  term,  505 

Cross-leaved  Heath,  the,  183 

Croton,  602 

Crowberry,  the  Native,  233 

Crown  grafting,  427 

Crown  Imperial,  89,  97 

Crucianella  stylosa  coccinea,  551 

Cryptomerias,  592  ;  C.  elegans,  592  ;  C. 
japonica,  593 

Cucumbers,  405,  614 ;  frame  house,  405 

Cup,  White,  553 

Cupidone,  blue,  559 

Cupressus,  varieties  of,  592,  593  ;  Lawson- 
iana,  592,  593  ;  C.  macrocarpa,  591,  593  ; 
C.  nootkatensis,  592,  593;  C.  obtusa, 
593  ;  C.  pisifera,  593  ;  C.  plumosa,  593 

Curator  of  Kew  Gardens,  quoted,  528 

Curled  kale,  402,  613 

Currants,  467 ;  attacked  by  caterpillars, 
491 ;  Black,  468 ;  destroying  pests  on, 
469;  Flowering,  253,  595;  preventing  birds 
destroying  buds  of,  469  ;  Red  and  White, 
467  ;  selection  of  Black,  612  ;  selection 
of  Red,  613;  selection  of  White,  612; 
treatment  of,  468  ;  Currant  Gall  Mite, 
Black,  492  ;  Currant  Saw-fly,  490 

Cushion  Iris,  20 

Cuttings,  how  to  procure  healthy,  105 ; 
meaning  of  term,  506;  propagating 
plants  by,  23,  25,  27,  32,  71,  77,  104, 
209,  286,  355 


INDEX 


633 


Cyclamen,  158  ;  for  greenhouse,  595  ;  for 

rock  gardens,   151;   under  glass,    158; 

Persian,  302;  C.  hederaefolium,  551 ;  C. 

lobatus,    156,   551 ;    C.    Neapolitanum, 

141  ;  C.  Persicum,  302 
Cyclamen-flowered  Daffodil,  158 
Cydonia  japonica,  248  ;  C.  Maulei  superba, 

59°. 

Cymbidium,  varieties  of,  321 
Cypress,    golden,    593 ;    C.    alternifolius, 

302 ;  C.  longus,  170  ;  C.  Monterey,  593 
Cypripediums,  species  of,   140,    321,  322, 

323,  33i 
Cytisus,  230,  268,  502  ;  C.  prolifera,  594 ; 

C.  racemosus,  302  ;  pruning,  268 

DABGECIA  polifolia,  St.  Dabeoc's  or  Irish 
Heath,  185,  230,  592 

Daddy-long-legs,  destroying  the  grubs  of, 
489 

Daffodils,  113-116,  158 ;  Angels'  Tears, 
158;  best  for  pots,  115;  Cyclamen, 
flowered.  158;  dividing,  114;  for  bor- 
ders, 116;  for  bowls  without  drainage, 
115  ;  for  cutting,  116  ;  for  grass,  116  ;  for 
later  pot-work,  115 ;  for  pot-work  in 
January,  115  ;  for  rockeries,  115  ;  group- 
ing Solomon's  seal  with,  32;  Hoop  pet- 
ticoat, 158;  Tenby,  115;  time  to  leave 
in  the  ground,  114  ;  when  to  plant,  114  ; 
Winter,  117 

Dahlias  and  their  cultivation,  101-6 ; 
Cactus,  varieties  of,  102 ;  cuttings,  to 
procure  healthy,  105 ;  earwigs  on,  102  ; 
for  garden  decoration,  102;  hardening 
and  planting-out  cuttings,  106  ;  how  to 
insert  cuttings  of,  105 ;  in  mixed 
borders,  40  ;  propagation  of,  104 ;  stor- 
ing roots  in  winter,  104;  treatment  of 
cuttings  in  frames,  106 ;  D.  glabrata, 

597 

Daisy  bush,  New  Zealand,  245 
Daisy,    Michaelmas,    to,    565 ;    in   mixed 

border,  38 

Damsons  for  small  orchard,  481 
Daphnes,  230,  302,   551,   592;   deciduous 

and     evergreen,     230 ;     for    the    rock 

garden,     147 ;     D.     indica,     594 ;     D. 

Laureola,  592  ;  D.  Mezereum,  590,  594 ; 

D.  pontica,  592 
Darwin's  Barberry,  222 
Darwin  Tulips,  117,  118 
Datura,  Annual,  52 

Day-lily,  566 ;  for  pond  sides,  593 ;  for 
shady  places,  196 

December,  work  in  the  garden,  503; 
work  on  Roses  in,  94 

Deciduous,  meaning  of  term,  506 ;  Azaleas, 
251 ;  flowering  shrubs  for  small  gardens, 
590 ;  flowering  trees  for  small  gardens, 
591;  Oleasters,  232;  Rhododendrons, 
251 ;  shrubs,  266,  590,  591  ;  trees,  265, 

590,  591 

Delphiniums,  18,  196,  560;  propagation 
of,  18  ;  D.  belladonna,  560  ;  D.  nudicale, 
156;  D.  sinense,  597 


Dendrobiums,  323 

Dentaria,  97 

Deodar  cedar,  593 

Desfontainea  spinosa,  147,  231 

Design  of  the  kitchen  garden,  388,  389 ; 

for  spring  beds,  61 ;  for  summer  beds, 

62 

Desmodium  penduliflorum,  242 
Dessert,  selection  of  Apples  for,  605  ;  Pears 

for,  606  ;  Plums  for,  608 
Deutzias,  231,  591,  592,  594 
Diamond-shaped  bed,  diagram  of,  65 
Dianthus,     Annual,    543;     for     moraine 

gardens,    156  ;    for    rock  gardens,  551  ; 

D.    Caryophyllus,    122;    D.    chinensis, 

133 ;     D.     deltoides    roseus,    166 ;     D. 

Hedewigii,   597  ;     D.    neglectus,    141, 

551 ;  D.  plumarius  annulatus,  163 
Dibbling,  meaning  of  term,  506 
Dictamnus,  560 

Dielytra  spectabilis,  316,  560,  597 
Diervillas,  232,  590 
Digging,  379 
Dilated  Shield  Fern,  98 
Dimorphanthus  mandschuricus,  218 
Dimorphotheca    aurantiaca,    54,    150;  D. 

pluvialis,  54 
Dipelta,  232 
Diplacus  glutinosus,  597 
Dipladenia  amabilis,  602 ;  D.  brearleyana, 

602 

Diplopappus  chrysophyllus,  225 
Disa  grandiflora,  323,  324 
Disbudding  Dahlias,  101 ;  Roses,  75 
Diseases  of  Carnations,  131;  of  Hollyhocks , 

19;  of  Peas,  411;   of  Potatoes,   43;  of 

Tulips,  119 
Distance  apart  for  plants,  63,  65 ;  Roses, 

79. 

Division,  meaning  of  term,  507 

Dodecathon  Jeffreyi,  560 

Dog  Rose,  584 

Dog's  tooth  Violet,  97,  595 

Dogwoods,     the,      228,     591 ;      Golden, 

Spaeth's,  266  ;  Variegated,  266 
Doronicum,  560 
Dorset  Heath,  the,  185 
Double  White  Cherry,  591 
Double-digging,  Rose  bed,  method  of,  67 
Double  Lilac,  258  ;  Primroses,  30 ;  Rocket, 

31 ;  White  Cherry,  591 ;  White  Rocket, 

566 

Douglas,  Mr.  J.,  quoted,  127 
Dove  Orchid,  the,  328,  329 
Draba,  551 
Dracaena,  603 
Drainage,  meaning  of  term,  507  ;  deep  or 

pipe,  376 

Drilling,  meaning  of  term,  507 
Drip  of  Trees,  Periwinkles  for  planting 

under,  260;  shrubs  for  planting  under, 

S92 

Drop,  Golden,  553 
Dryas,  551 
Dry  walls,  160-63 ;  building  of,  161 ;   in 

winter,  162  ;  planting  of,  162 


634 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


Dutchman's  Pipe,  the,  272 

Dwarf,  Almond,  for  greenhouse,  594 ; 
Alpines,  558  ;  Beans,  398,  613 ;  Mari- 
golds, 54 ;  Mock  Orange,  590 ;  Nas- 
turtiums for  the  rock  garden,  150  ; 
Phloxes,  138  ;  plants  for  paved  gardens, 
165;  Rocket,  544;  Roses  for  pit  or 
house  culture,  595 :  Snapdragons  for 
rock  garden,  148 ;  Tea  Roses  for 
garden,  579  ;  Trees  and  shrubs  for  rock 
gardens,  146 

EARLY-flowering  Chrysanthemums,  599 

Earwigs  and  Dahlias,  102 

Eastern  Poppy,  570 

East  Lothian  Stocks,  33 

Echeverias,  302 

Echinacea  purpurea,  560 

Echinocactus,  368  ;  E.  cylindraceus,  371 

Echinocereus,  371 

Echinops,  560 

Echium  fastuosum ,  594 

Edelweiss,  552,  597 

Edgings,  Ageratum  for,  65  ;  Arabis  alpina 
for,  61  ;  Aubretias  for,  196 ;  Bambusa 
pygmaea  for,  220;  Box,  63;  Euony- 
muses  for,  234;  heaths  for,  233  ;  Lobelia, 
blue,  for,  44,  63  ;  Nemophila  insignisfor 
broad,  63  ;  Pinks  for,  27  ;  Pinks,  White, 
for,  201 ;  Stone,  165,  202  ;  Sun  Roses  for, 
237;  tile,  63;  Violas  for,  63,  64;  Zonal 
Pelargoniums  for,  63,  65 

Edraianthus  serpyllifolius,  551 

Eel  worm,  132 

Eglinton  Rocket,  32 

Elsegnuses,  232 ;  Variegated,  266 ;  E. 
pungens,  266 

Elder,  255;  Golden-leaved,  265,  266; 
Water,  260! 

Elm,  the,  591 ;  Golden,  266 ;  Van  Houtte's 
Golden,  266 

Empetrum  nigrum,  233,  592 

Endive,  culture  of,  406,  614  ;  curled,  406 ; 
Batavian,  406 

English  Iris,  109 ;  for  pond  sides,  593 ; 
Oak,  250 

English  names  for  Wild  and  Garden  flowers, 

53i. 

Epacnses,  302,  303 
Epidendrum,   324;    E.    vitellinum   majus, 

324 

Epilobium,  167,  593  ;  E.  obcordatum,  551 

Epimediums  for  rock  garden,  551 

Epiphyllum,  368 

Equisetum  sylvaticus,  597 

Eragrostis  elegans,  53,  549 

Eranthemum  nervosum,  603 

Eremurus,  560 

Ericas,  179-185,  233,  234,  303,  592,  594; 
for  the  greenhouse,  303  ;  for  rock  gar- 
dens, 147  ;  E.  carnea,  141 

Erigeron  for  the  rock  garden,  552 ;  E. 
speciosus  superbus,  560 

Erinus,  140, 552 ;  E.  albus,  165  ;  E.  alpinus, 
165,  166  ;  E.  carmineus,  165 

Eritrichium  nanum,  156 


Erlangea  tomentosa,  303 

Erodium,  varieties  of,  552  ;  E.  chelidoni- 

folium,  141 
Eryngiums,  561 
Erysimum  peroffskianum,  544 
Erythronium  Dens  canis,  595;  Pink  Beauty, 

141 
Escallonias,  234,  591 ;  E.  langleyensis,  147  ; 

E.  macrantha,  590;  E.  philippiana,  590 
Eschscholtzias,  544  ;  for  summer  bedding, 

63 

Espalier,  meaning  of  term,  507 
Eucalyptus,   303;    E.    citriodora,  303;  E. 

globosus,  303,  597 
Eucharidium  Breweri,  544 
Eucharis  amazonica,  603 
Eucryphia  pinnatifolia,  234 
Eugenia  buxifolia,  597 
Eulalias,  303,  597;  E.  zebrina,  596 
Euonymuses,    234,   592;  Evergreen,  234; 

for  edging  borders,  235  ;  for  wall  shrubs, 

235  ;   Golden,   266 ;  E.   europaeus,   591 ; 

E.  japonicus,  266,  592  ;  E.  latifolius,  591 ; 

E.  radicans  variegatus,  597 
Eupatorium,  varieties  of,  303-4 
Eurybia,  245 
Eutoca  viscida,  54,  544 
Evening  Primrose,  553,  569 
Evergreen,  meaning  of  term,  506  ;  Azaleas, 

251;  Fire  Thorn,  230;  Laburnum,  247; 

Oak,  250,  591 ;  Oleasters  for  dry  banks, 

232;  Rhododendrons,  252;  Shrubs,  266  ; 

Shrubs,  flowering  for  small  gardens,  591  ; 

Shrubs,  trailing,  260  ;  Trees  and  Shrubs 

for  sea-coast,  591 

Everlasting  pea  in  mixed  border,  40 
Everlastings,  542,  544 
Exochorda  grandiflora,  235 
Exposed  flower  border,  planting  and  shel- 
tering an,  623  ;  Exposed  Hedges,  Sweet 

Briars  for,  620 
Extinguisher  flower,  63,  544 

FABIANA  imbricata,  147,  594 

Fagus  sylvatica  pendula,  591 ;  F.  sylvatica 

purpurea,  265 
Fair  Maid  of  France,  571 
Fan  Palm,  596 
Fancy  Carnations,  127 
Farrer,  Mr.  Reginald,  quoted,  155 
Feather  Hyacinths,  113 
February,   work  in  the  garden   in,   496; 

work  on  Roses  in,  89 
Feeding,  meaning  of  term,  508 
Fences,   Tropaeolums  for,  55 ;    plants  to 

cover  North,  617 
Fennel  (see  Herbs),  419,  614 
Fern     Asparagus,     295 ;      Beech,      340 ; 

Bracken,     334,      340 ;      Bristle,     347 ; 

Buckler    and    varieties,    339;      Hard, 

340;      Hart's     tongue     and     varieties, 

98,  3331    Holly,   339;    Killarney,  347; 

Lady    and    varieties,     98,     337,     339  ; 

Maidenhair,    334,   340;    the   Male,   98, 

337  ;  New  Zealand,  336,  347  ;  Oak,  340 ; 

Polypody,   98,   337;    Royal,  340,   593; 


INDEX 


635 


Shield  and  varieties,  98,  337,  339 ; 
Shuttlecock,  338 

Ferns,  98,  332-347,  593;  conditions  liked 
by,  334  ;  curious  forms  of,  333 ;  Filmy, 
345-47 ;  for  frames,  337 ;  for  green- 
house decoration,  best  varieties  of,  344  ; 
for  hanging  baskets,  345  ;  for  pond  sides, 
593 1  f°r  the  conservatory,  336,  337 ; 
for  the  garden,  334,  335  ;  for  the  house, 
335  ;  for  Wardian  cases,  336  ;  Hardy, 
best  varieties  of,  339,  340 ;  Hardy 
British,  346;  places  where  they  grow, 
334  ;  propagation  of,  by  division,  342  ; 
Selaginellas,  345  :  soil  for,  343  ;  spore 
sowing,  338,  341-43  ;  treatment  of,  334 

Fibrous-rooted  Begonias,  63,  297 

Ficus,  varieties  of,  304  ;  F.  indica,  304 

Field,  Lily  of  the,  117 

Figs,  469;  for  open  walls,  470;  for  pot 
culture,  469;  planted  out,  470;  protect- 
ing plants  in  winter,  471 ;  soil  for,  470 

Filberts,  476  ;  in  small  orchard,  481  ;  pro- 
pagation and  culture  of,  476 

Fir,  Grecian  silver,  593;  Nordmann's,  593 

Fires,  greenhouse,  618 

Fire  Thorn,  evergreen,  230 

Fittonia,  603 

Flag  Iris,  19  ;  Winter,  116 

Flame  flowers,  566,  596;  Flame  Nastur- 
tium, 573 

Fleabane,  560 

Flooding,  garden  plants  that  will  bear,  617 

Florentine  Iris,  20 

Florists'  Anemones,  8 ;  Hyacinths,  596 ; 
Wallflowers,  597 

Florists'  Flowers,  meaning  of  term,  508 

Flower  border,  planting  and  sheltering  an 
exposed,  623 

Flower  garden,  varieties  of,  Roses  for 
planting  round  a,  87 

Flowering  Ash,  236  ;  Currants,  the,  253, 
595  ;  Rush,  171 ;  shrubs  for  small 
gardens,  590,  591;  shrubs,  hedges  of, 
620 ;  shrubs,  pruning  hardy,  267  ;  trees 
and  shrubs  for  windy  places,  617  ;  trees 
for  small  gardens,  deciduous,  591 

Flowering  time  of  Annuals,  542-9 

Flowers,  Annual,  50  ;  arrangement  of  colour 
of,  38 ;  bulbous,  96  ;  coops  for  protect- 
ing, 617  ;  for  the  greenhouse,  293,  for 
town  gardens,  196  ;  grouping  for  colour 
effect,  53 ;  list  of  Annual,  542  ;  list  of 
Hardy  Perennials,  555  ;  packing,  621 ; 
propagation  by  cuttings,  286  ;  protection 
of  outdoor  in  winter,  623  ;  raised  from 
seed,  49 ;  soil  for  Annual,  50 ;  soil  for 
Hardy,  44 ;  sowing  Annual,  51 ;  sowing 
Hardy,  45-49 ;  spring  bedding  of,  60  ; 
summer  bedding,  62-66 

Fly, Cabbage,  490 ;  Carnation,  490  ;  Celery, 
490  ;  Currant  Saw,  490 ;  Crane,  493 ; 
Green,  79,  132,  490;  Holly,  490;  Mar- 
guerite Daisy,  490  ;  Pear  Saw,  490 

Flower  Truss,  meaning  of  term,  508 

Foam  flower,  554,  572,  597 

Foils,  rock,  571 


Foliage  plants,  Annuals  as,  52 ;  for  cold 
greenhouse,  496 

Forcing,  meaning  of  term,  509  ;  Trees  and 
Shrubs  for,  592 

Forget-me-not  (see  also  Myosotis),  568, 
597 ;  Alpine,  552  ;  Creeping,  553,  569  ; 
Water,  593 

Forking,  379 

Forsythia,  235,  269;  F.  suspensa,  590, 
592 

Foster,  Sir  Michael,  pamphlet  on  Irises 
by,  20 

Fox-gloves,  1 8 ;  from  seed,  and  where  to 
plant,  18 

Fragaria  indica,  597 

Frames,  wood,  626 

France,  Fair  Maid  of,  571 

Francoas,  304,  597 

Fraxinus  excelsior  and  varieties,  235 ; 
F.  excelsior  aurea,  591 ;  F.  excelsior 
pendula,  591 

Freesia,  culture  of,  304 

Fremontia  californica,  236 

French  Bean,  398,  613;  Marigold,  548; 
White  Rocket,  32 

Fringe  Tree,  227 

Fritillaria,  106,  596  ;  culture  of,  106 ;  for 
rock  gardens,  106  ;  F.  alpina,  106  ;  F. 
imperialis,  106  ;  F.  meleagris,  106,  595 

Fruit,  cultivation  of,  420-486 ;  selection  of 
autumn  fruiting  Raspberries,  612  ;  selec- 
tion of  Black  Currants,  612;  Cherries, 
610;  Cooking  Apples,  606;  Cooking 
Pears,  608  ;  Cooking  Plums,  609  ;  Dessert 
Apples,  605 ;  Dessert  Pears,  606 ; 
Dessert  Plums,  608 ;  Nectarines,  610 ; 
Peaches,  609 ;  Raspberries,  612  ;  Red 
Currants,  613 ;  Strawberries,  610  ;  White 
Currants,  612 

Fruit  Trees  as  garden  ornaments,  479  ; 
culture  of,  in  pots,  481-486;  in  the 
kitchen  garden,  389 ;  pruning,  424-427, 

432-43S.  484 

Fuchsias,  304-5,  591,  592  ;  distance  apart 
for  planting,  65 ;  for  summer  bedding, 
64;  in  the  greenhouse,  304;  out  of 
doors,  304 ;  soil  for,  66 ;  F.  Mme. 
Cornellison,  594 

Fumitory,  98 

Fungicide,  the  best,  495 

Fungi,  to  destroy,  495 

Fungus,  Orange,  on  Roses,  80 

Funkias,  561,  596 

Furze,  258 

GAGES,  429 

Gaillardia,  544,  561 

Galanthus,  106 

Galax  aphylla,  141,  561 

Galega,  562  ;  in  the  mixed  border,  38 

Gall  Mite,  Black  Currant,  492 

Galtonia  candicans,  107,  596 

Gaps,  unsightly,  39,  40 

Garden,  ferns  for,  334,  335;  fruit  trees 
as  ornaments  for,  479;  making  of  paths 
for,  393-96 ;  measurements  of  pots  for, 


636 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


509 ;  terms  explained,  504-522 ;  useful 
tools  for,  618  ;  vases,  plants  for,  526  ; 
Calendar  of  monthly  work  in,  496 

Garden  architects,  164 

Garden,  Bog,  formation  of  a,  166 

Garden,  Heath,  the,  179 ;  formation  of, 
180;  layering,  181 ;  planting,  180 ; 
propagation,  180 ;  situation  of,  180  ;  soil 
for,  176  ;  varieties  for  spring,  summer, 
autumn  and  winter,  181-183 

Garden,  Kitchen,  how  to  make  a,  386-392 

Garden,    Moraine,    the,   Androcaces    for,    i 
156  ;    best  plants  for,  156  ;   Campanulas   I 
for,   156;    Dianthuses  for,   156;  how  to   j 
make  a,  152  ;  position  of,  153  ;  Ranun- 
culuses  for,   157  ;    Saxifragas  for,  157  ; 
Silenes  for,    157 ;    soil  for,   154 ;   water 
supply  of,  155 

Garden,  Paved,  the,  163  ;  at  Kensington 
Gardens,  165 ;  Alpines  for,  165,  166 ; 
Dwarf  plants  for,  165 

Garden,  Rock,  A  Selection  of  plants  for, 
141,  550-554,  autumn  flowering  plants 
for,  144  ;  Abies  for,  146 ;  Anemones  for, 
152 ;  annuals  for,  148 ;  Antirrhinums 
for,  148;  Berberises  for,  147;  bulbs  for, 
151 ;  Candytufts  for,  150 ;  Cistuses  for, 
147 ;  Cotoneasters  for,  147  ;  Cyclamens 
for,  151 ;  Daphnes  for,  147  ;  dwarf  Nas- 
turtiums for,  150  ;  dwarf  trees  and  shrubs 
for,  146 ;  Ericas  for,  147 ;  Genistas  for, 
147  ;  Indian  Pinks  for,  148  ;  Junipers  for, 
147  ;  Larkspurs  for,  148  ;  Nemesias  for, 
146 ;  Pines  for,  147  ;  Portulacas  for,  149  ; 
Retinosporas  for,  149 ;  Rhododendrons 
for,  146,  252  ;  Saxifragas  for,  141 ;  Scillas 
for,  152  ;  Silenes  for,  139  ;  Snapdragons 
for,  148  ;  soil  for,  139  ;  Statices  for,  147  ; 
thinning  annuals  for,  149 

Garden,  The,  quoted,  32,  140 

Garden,  Town,  the,  190 ;  annuals  for, 
197  ;  Aucubas  in,  219 

Garden,  Wall,  the,  160  ;  building  a,  161 ; 
in  winter,  162  ;  plants  for,  163 

Garden,  Water,  the,  138 ;  value  of  Nym- 
phaeas  in,  170 

Gardenia  florida,  603 

Gardening  terms  explained,  504 ;  Town, 
191 

Garland  Flower,  the,  231 

Garry  a  elliptica,  236,  591 

Gas  Lime,  495 

Gaultheria  nummularioides,  147;  G.  pro- 
cumbens,  236,  592 ;  G.  Shallon,  592 

Gaura  Lindheimeri,  562 

Gean,  the,  248 

Genistas,  236,  268,  302;  for  rock  garden, 
147 ;  pruning,  269  ;  varieties  of,  552  ; 
G.  dalmatica,  592 

Gentiana,  varieties  of,  552,  562 

Gentianella,  552,  562 

Geraniums  (see  also  Pelargoniums),  309, 
310,  552,  562 ;  G.  lancastriense,  141 

Gerard's  Herbal  mentioned,  8,  n 

Gerbera,  305 

German  Flag  Iris,  20,  202 


Geum,   varieties  of,  562 ;   G.    montanum, 

S52 

Giant  Hemp,  52  ;  Stocks,  34 

Gillenia  trifoliata,  562 

Ginkgo  biloba,  594 

"Giving  a  Shift,"  meaning  of  term,  509 

Gladioli,  596 ;  varieties  of,  315 ;  Winter, 
596 

Glass,  Alpines  under,  157;  Anemones 
under,  157;  Climbing  Roses  under,  82  ; 
Crocuses  under,  158 ;  cultivation  of 
plants  under,  159  ;  Cyclamen  under,  158  ; 
Mare"chal  Niel  Rose  under,  82 ;  miscel- 
laneous plants  for  growing  under,  159  ; 
Narcissi  under,  158 ;  Primulas  under, 
158;  Saxifragas  under,  158;  Tulips 
under,  158 

Glasses,  growing  bulbs  in,  107 

Globe  artichoke,  397,  615 

Globe  Flowers,  573 ;  for  pond  sides,  593 

Globe  Thistle,  560 

Gloriosa  superba,  603 

Glory  of  the  Snow,  551,  595 

Glory  Pea,  594 

Gloxinias,  305,  603 

Gnaphalium  alpinum,  552 

Goat's-rue,  562 

Godetia,  54,  65,  544;  for  summer  bedding, 

63 

Golden  Bamboo,  221;  Bell,  235,  269; 
Cypress,  593;  Dogwood,  Spaeth's,  266; 
Drop,  553;  Elm,  266;  Elm,  Van 
Houtte's,  266;  Euonymous,  266  ;  Holly, 
266;  Maple,  265;  Privet,  266;  Rod, 
572  ;  Willow,  591 

Golden-leaved  American  Oak,  265  ;  Indian 
Bean  Tree,  265  ;  Elder,  264,  266  ;  Labur- 
num, 265  ;  Nut,  266  ;  Oak,  250,  265 

Gooseberry,  Espaliers,  466 ;  Fan-trained, 
467  ;  forming  and  training  the  bush,  464  ; 
planting  the,  463  ;  propagation  of,  463  ; 
selection  of,  611 ;  soil  and  situation  for, 
462 ;  summer  treatment  of,  465 ;  winter 
treatment  of,  466 

Gorse,  258 

Gourds,  418 

Grafting,  meaning  of  term,  510;  Bottle, 
452;  Crown,  427;  Herbaceous,  451; 
In-arching,  452;  Rind,  427;  Saddle, 
427  ;  Tongue,  426 

Grapes  (see  Grape  Vine),  437 

Grape  Hyacinths,  113,  596 

Grape  Vine,  437;  as  garden  ornament, 
479 ;  border  for,  437 ;  making  a,  437 ; 
grafting,  451 ;  in  open  air,  454 ;  insect 
pests,  453 ;  mildew  on,  453 ;  planting, 
440  ;  propagation,  451 ;  pruning,  449  ; 
thinning  bunches,  447;  treatment  after 
planting,  442 ;  varieties  of,  278  ;  water- 
ing, 450 

Grass,  Barley,  549  ;  Carnation,  124  ;  Hare- 
tail,  549 ;  Narcissi  for  planting  in,  116 ; 
North  American  Silk,  261 ;  planting 
bulbs  in,  524;  Quaking,  549;  Ribbon, 
597  ;  Seed,  sowing,  187 

Grasses,  Annual,  549 


INDEX 


637 


Gravetye  Manor,  Water  Lilies  at,  169 

Great  Reed, '219,  Spearwort  for  pond  sides, 
593 

Grecian  Silver  Fir,  593 

Green  centres  in  Roses,  89 

Green-fly,  79,  132,  490 

Green  Gage,  429 

Greenhouse  and  Conservatory,  best  Lilies 
for,  315  ;  best  shape  of,  281 ;  Climbing 
Roses  for,  577;  cuttings  in,  288;  Ferns 
in,  336;  Dielytra  spectabilis  in,  316; 
hardening  off  in  the,  288;  heating  the, 
283,  618  ;  insect  pests  in,  292;  manage- 
ment of,  throughout  the  year,  291 ;  oil 
lamps  in,  283  ;  position  of,  282  ;  pricking 
off  seedlings,  287;  Roses  in  small,  83; 
seed-sowing  and  propagation  by  cut- 
tings, 286  ;  shading  the,  282  ;  soils  used 
in,  284  ;  useful  plants  for,  293-317. 

Greenhouse,  the  Cold,  348-352;  as  Alpine 
garden,  351 ;  plants  for,  350,  594-597 1 
ventilating  and  shading,  351 

Grevilleas,  305  ;  G.  robusta,  305 

Grey  Heath,  234 

Gromwell,  552 

Ground,  how  to  dig,  379 

Ground-work,  Arabis  as,  61 

Grouping  Azaleas,  251 ;  Hardy  Annuals 
for  colour  effect,  53 ;  Solomon's  Seal 
with  Daffodils  and  Lily  of  the  Valley, 
32 

Groups  of  garden  flowers,  3 

Groups  of  plants  easily  raised  from  seed, 
49 

Grubs  that  feed  on  roots,  488  ;  with  no  legs, 
490 ;  living  inside  leaves,  490 

Guano,  ichthemic,  75 

Guelder  Rose,  259,  592  ;  Wild,  591 

Guernsey  lily,  308 

Gum,  Blue,  303 

Gum  Cistus,  227 

Gumming,  619 

Gunnera,  168  ;  G.  manicata  for  pond  sides, 
593  ;  G.  scabra  for  pond  sides,  593 

Gypsophylla,  552,  562  ;  G.  elegans,  544  ;  G. 
prostrata  rosea,  141,  551 

HABERLEA  rhodopensis,  141,  552 

Habrothammus,  595 

Haemanthus  albiflos,  595 

Halesia  tetraptera,  237 

Half-hardy,  meaning  of  term,  55  ;  Annuals, 

55  ;  raising  from  seed,  55 
Hamamelis,  237 
Hampton  Court  Palace,  Tudor  garden  at, 

168 

baskets,   ferns    for,    345 ;    Ivy- 
;   Lobelias 


leaved   pelargoniums  in,   309 
for,  307 

Hardening  off,  meaning  of  term,  288 

Hard  Fern,  the,  340 

Hardy  Annuals,  cultivation  of,  51 ;  group- 
ing for  colour  effect,  53 ;  soil  for,  44 

Hardy  Bulbous  flowers  for  the  greenhouse, 
3H-3I7 

Hardy  Cacti,  370;  Climbing  plants,  272- 


278,  Ferns,  339-40,  346,  Flowering 
shrubs,  pruning  of,  267,  Heaths,  179, 
233,  Orchids,  331 

Hardy  Flowers,  from  seed,  44,  45 

Hardy  Perennials,  for  Town  Gardens,  196 
197 ;  from  seeds,  46  ;  list  of,  555-574 

Harebell,  146 

Hare-tail  grass,  549 

Hart's-tongue  fern  and  varieties,  333 

Hazel,  the  Witch,  237 

Heart,  Bleeding,  560 

Heartsease,  23 

Heath,  Cornish,  183  ;  Corsican,  185  ;  Cross- 
leaved,  182  ;  Dorset,  185 ;  Grey,  234 ; 
Irish,  185  ;  Prickly,  245  ;  St.  Dabeoc's, 
185,  230;  Winter,  234 

Heath  Garden,  the,  179-185 ;  formation 
of,  180  ;  layering,  181  ;  planting,  180 ; 
propagation,  180;  situation  of,  180 ;  soil 
for,  179  ;  varieties  for  spring,  summer, 
autumn,  and  winter,  181-83 

Heath,  Tree,  the,  233 

Heather  and  Bracken  planting,  525 

Heather,  Common,  the,  184 ;  Ling1,  179, 
181,  184  ;  White,  184 

Heaths,  179-85,  233,  234,  303  ;  and  lime, 
382  ;  best  spring,  summer,  autumn,  and 
winter  varieties,  181-83;  for  edging  233  ; 
greenhouse,  303;  Hardy,  179,  233; 
Prickly,  245 

Heathworts,  261 

Heating  the  greenhouse,  283 

Heaven,  Tree  of,  216 

Hedera,  varieties  of,  275,  276;  H.  Helix, 
266 

Hedges,  American  arbor  vitae  for,  594  ; 
China  Rose  for,  87  ;  flowering  shrubs 
for,  620 ;  Fuchsia  Riccartoni  for,  591 ; 
Japanese  Roses  for,  87 ;  low  Roses  for, 
588 ;  Penzance  Briars  for,  87 ;  plants 
for,  592  ;  Roses  for,  587;  round  a  lawn 
or  flower  garden,  87 ;  Sweetbriars  for, 
87  ;  sweetbriars  as  exposed,  620 

Hedysarum  alpinus,  552;  H.  multijugum, 
237  ;  H.  sibiricum,  552 

Helenium,  varieties  of,  566 

Helianthemums ;  237  592 ;  for  rock 
gardens,  552 

Helianthus,  34;  annual,  34,  544;  peren- 
nial, 563 ;  H.  H.  G.  Moon,  34 

Helichrysum,  544 

Heliotrope,  63,  64,  305  ;  Winter,  573 

Helleborus  niger,  563-565,  597 

Helminthosporium  echinulatum,  or  "Rust," 

131 

Hemerocallis,  196,  566 

Hemp,  Giant,  52 

Henry  VIII,  fruit  trees  collected  by, 
planted  at  Teynham,  427 

Hepaticas,  7,  552 

Heracleum  giganteum,  544 

Herbaceous  border,  36-40 ;  Dwarf  Alpines 
for,  558  ;  Oriental  Poppies  for,  28  ;  re- 
planting, 41 

Herbaceous  Calceolarias,  298;  Pasonies, 
22;  Pinks,  22,  570;  Phlox,  25,  570,  593 


638 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


Herbaceous  grafting,  451 

Herbal,  Gerard's,  mentioned,  8,  n 

Herbs,  419,  615 

Herb,  Willow,  551  ;  for  pond  sides,  593 

Herniaria  glabra,  165,  552 

Hesperis  matronalis  albo  plena,  566 

Heuchera,  566;  H.  sanguinea,  552,  597 

Hibbertia,  305;  H.  dentata,  305,  595 

Hibiscus,  237 

Hints  for  town  gardening,    203;    useful, 

616 

Hippeastrum,  305 
Hippophae  rhamnoides,  238,  591 
Hoeing,  380 
Holboellia  latifolia,  238 
Holly,  Common  Prickly-leaved,  239,  591, 

592;    Fern,  339;   Fly,  490;   Gold,  266; 

Sea,  561  ;    Silver,    266 ;     treatment    of 

seeds  of,  209 
Hollyhocks,  19,  566;  disease,  19;  raising 

from  seed,  19 
Holm  Oak,  the,  250 
Honesty,  567 
Honeysuckle,   243,    276,  277,"  595  ;    Bush, 

232 ;  Clammy,  251 
Hoop  Petticoat  Daffodil,  158 
Hop,  Japanese,  549,  595 
Hopetoun    House,    Linlithgow,    gardens 

at,  8 

Horminium  pyrenaicum,  552 
Hornbeam,  592 

Horse  Chestnut,  215  ;  Red-Flowered,  591 
Horse- Radish,  407 
Horse-tail,  597 
Hot-bed,  621 

How  to  make  a  kitchen  garden,  386-392 
Hudson,  Mr.  James,  quoted,  51,  168 
Humulus  japonicus,  595 
Hutchinsia  alpina,  165,  552 
Hyacinths,  107-9;   Cape,  596;  design  for 

arrangement  of  beds  of  Tulips  and,  61 ; 

Feather,  113  ;  Florists'  and  Roman,  596  ; 

for  pots,  a  selection  of,  316  ;  for  spring 

bedding,  61,62;  Grape,  113,  596  ;  grow- 
ing in  glasses,  107;  outdoor  culture  of, 

107  ;  H.  candicans,  89 
Hybrid,  meaning  of  term,  510;  Perpetual 

Roses,  71,  81 ;  Perpetual  Roses  for  pots, 

578  ;  Tea  Roses,  73,  80,  576,  580 
Hydrangeas,  238,  271,  305,  306,  523,  592, 

594;   Blue,  523;  H.  paniculata  grandi- 

flora,  590  ;  pruning,  271 
Hylemyia  nigrescens  (Carnation  maggot), 

132 
Hymenophyllum  tunbridgense,  336,   346 ; 

H.  unilateral,  346 
Hypericum,  239,  594;  H.  calycinum,  592; 

H.  chiense,   597 ;   H.  fragile,   141 ;   H. 

moserianum,  590 

IBERIS,  for  rock  garden,  552 ;  I.  correae- 
folia,  566;  I.  gibraltarica,  597;  I.  Little 
Gem,  141  ;  I.  petrasa,  156 

Iceland  Poppies  (see  Poppies),  28 

Ichthemic  guano,  75 

Idesia  polycarpa,  239 


Ilex  Aquifolium,  239,  266  ;  I.  Aquifolium 

argentea  pendula,  591 
Imantopbyllum,  306 
Impatiens,  varieties  of,  306 
Imperial,  Crown,  97 
In-arching,  451 ;  meaning  of  term,  511 
Incarvillea  Delavayi,  566 
Indian  Bean  Tree,  Golden-leaved,  265 
Indian  Pinks,  as  annuals,   149  ;   for  rock 

garden,  148 
Indian  shot,  300 
India-rubber  Plant,  304 
Indigofera  gerardiana,  240 
Insect  Pests,  16,  79,   102,  131,  292,  329, 

330.  3.6o.  361-  367,  487-495 

Insecticides,  337,  413,  494 

Interest,  items  of,  523 

Intergrouping  plants  of  same  colour,  40 

Intermediate  Stock,  597 

lonopsidium  acaule,  150,  544 

Ipomaea  rubro-caerulea,  549 

Iris,  for  rock  gardens,  552  ;  Algerian,  21 ; 
Bearded,  19;  Cushion,  20;  Early  Spring, 
109;  English,  109;  English,  for  pond 
sides,  593 ;  Flag,  the,  19 ;  Florentine, 
20  ;  German  Flag,  20,  202 ;  Japan,  21 ; 
Kaempfer's,  21 ;  Kaempfer's,  for  pond 
sides,  593;  mourning,  20;  netted,  109; 
Oncocyclus,  20;  Spanish,  the,  109,  202  ; 
I.  chinense,  595 ;  I.  pseudacorus  and 
sibirica  for  pond  sides,  593  ;  I.  reticulata, 
109,  141,  551  ;  time  for  planting,  19 

Irish  Heath,  the,  or  St.  Dabeoc's  Heath, 
185,  230 

Iron  Tree,  245 

Isolepis  gracilis,  306 

Itea  virginica,  240 

Items  of  interest,  523 

Ivy,  varieties  of,  275,  276,  592,  597  ;  Tree, 
266,  276,  592  ;  poison,  253 

Ivy-leaved  Geranium  (see  Pelargonium),  309 

Ixia,  306,  595 

JACKMAN,  Mr.,  quoted,  274 

Jacob's  Ladder,  553,  570 

Jamesia  americana,  240 

January,   Daffodils  and   Narcissi   for   pot 

work  in,  115;   work  in   the  garden  in, 

496  ;  work  on  Roses  in,  89 
Japanese  Anemones,  555  ;    Bramble,  255  ; 

Cedar,  597  ;  Chrysanthemums,  364,  598  ; 

Hop,  549,  595  ;  Iris,  21 ;  Iris  for  pond 

sides,   593;    Lilies,   112;    Maples,  266; 

Primrose  for  pond  sides,  593 ;  primula, 

311;    Rosa   Rugosa,    192;    Roses,    87; 

Roses  as  hedges,  87;   Snow  Ball  Tree, 

259;  Windflower,  6  ;  Wineberry,  255 
Jasmines,  276,  306 ;  J.  nudiflorum,  201,  594 
Jekyll,  Miss,  quoted,  19,  29,  46 
Jenny,  Creeping,  196 
Jerusalem  artichokes,  397,  613 
Jews'  Mallow,  241 ,  592 
Jonquils,  115,  596  ;  Double  and  Single,  151 
Judas  Tree,  226 
July,  work  in  the   garden   in,  500;   work 

on  Roses  in,  92 


INDEX 


639 


June,   work   in   the    garden    in,   499 ;    on 

Roses  in,  92 
Junipers    for     the     rock     garden,     147 ; 

varieties    of,    594;    J.     chinensis,   592; 

J.  prostrata,  592 

K^BMPFER'S  Iris,  21,  593 

Kalanchoe  flammea,  306-7 

Kale    (see    also    Cabbages),    402,    613 ; 

Curled,  402  ;  Russian,  402  ;  Scotch,  402 
Kalmias,  241 ;  K.  latifolia,  591,  592 
Kalosanthes  coccinea,  302,  597 
Kennedya,  307,  595 
Kensington  Gardens,  Lily  tanks  at,  165 ; 

Paved  garden  at,  165 
Kentish  cherries,  428 
Kerria  japonica,   241 ;    K.  japonica   flore 

pleno,  592 

Kew  Gardens,  Curator  of,  quoted,  528 
Kidney  Dwarf  Beans,  398,  613 
Killarney  Fern,  347 
Kingcup,  171 
Kitchen  garden,  how  to  make,  386-392 

cropping  a,   389;    design    for   a,   388 

plan  of  a,  390,  391 ;  shelter  essential  to 

386;   soil  for  a,  387;  trenching  a,  388 

value  of  walls  in  a,  386 
Kniphofia,  566,  596 
Knot  Weeds,  571 
Kochia,  65;   K.  coleaster,  147;  K.  trico- 

philla,  52 
Kohl  Rabi,  407 

LABELS,  621 

Labour-saving  appliances,  importance  of, 
526 

Labrador  Tree,  242 

Laburnums,  241 ;  Evergreen,  247  ;  Golden - 
leaved,  265 ;  L.  alpinum,  541 ;  L.  vul- 
gare,  591 ;  L.  vulgare  foliis  aureis,  265 

Lachenalia,  307,  595 

Ladder,  Jacob's,  553,  570 

Lady  Fern,  and  varieties,  337,  339 

Lady's  Slippers,  321-23,  331 

Lselias,  the  Mexican,  324,  325 

Lagurus  ovatus,  53,  549 

Lamps,  oil,  in  the  Greenhouse,  483-4 

Lantana,  307 

Lapageria,  595;   L.  alba,  307;  L.  rosea, 

307 

Larch,  594 

Larkspurs  (Annual),  544,  and  Pinks,  in  the 
rock  garden,  148 ;  Perennial,  varieties 
and  culture  of,  18,  560;  for  mixed 
borders,  40,  148  ;  propagation  of,  18 

Lastreas,  339 

Lateral,  Rod  and,  meaning  of  terms,  516 

Lathyrus  azureus,  544 

Latour-Marliac,  M.,  quoted,  169,  171,  173 

Laurel,  Mountain,  241 ;  Sheep,  241 ; 
Spurge,  231  ;  Swamp,  241 

Laurus  nobilis,  241 

Laurustinus,  259,  591,  592 

Lavandula  spica,  266 

Lavatera splendens rosea,  54  ;  L.  trimestris, 
545 


Lavender,  266;  Cotton,  266;  cuttings, 
how  to  treat,  166  ;  walks,  166 

Lawn  Tennis  Courts,  size  of,  189 ;  their 
treatment  in  winter,  189-90 

Lawn,  the,  best  top-dressing  for,  189 ; 
destroying  weeds  on,  188  ;  draining  wet, 
186 ;  formation  and  management  of,  186- 
90;  mowing,  188  ;  narrow  border  on, 
63  ;  protecting  from  birds  when  sown, 
182 ;  rolling  in  winter,  190  ;  rose  hedges 
round,  87,  588  ;  sowing  seed  on,  187  ;  to 
destroy  worms  on,  188,  190  ;  treatment 
in  winter,  189  ;  way  to  mow,  188 

Lawson  Cypress,  593 

Laxtonberry,  486 

Layers,  meaning  of  term,  511 

Lead  plant,  217 

Leaf-curl  fungus,  493 

Leaf-mould,  meaning  of  term,  511 ;  value 
of,  285 

Lean-to,  meaning  of  term,  511 ;  green- 
house, 282 

Leather-jackets,  to  destroy,  490 

Lebanon,  Cedar  of,  593 

Ledums,  242 

Leeks,  407,  614 

Lees,  Peter,  article  by,  189-90 

Leiophyllum  buxifolium,  242,  592 

Lemon  Thyme  (see  also  Herbs),  419,  615 

Lemon  Verbena,  294 ;  Tree,  594 

Lent  Lily,  Wild,  116 

Leontopodium  alpinum,  156,  552 

Leptosiphon  hybridus,  544 

Lespedeza  bicolor,  242 

Lettuce,  407,  614 

Leucojum.gS,  no  ;  L.  vernumcarpaticum, 
141 

Lewisia  rediviva,  552 

Leycesteria  formosa,  242,  591 

Libertia  formosa,  595 

Lifting  Tulips,  119 

Ligustrum,  242,  592  ;  L.  lucidum,  591  ;  L. 
lucidum  aurea  variegata,  591 ;  L.  ovali- 
folium  foliis  aureis,  266 

Lilacs,  257,  269,  590,  592  ;  double-flowered, 
258 ;  pruning,  269 

Lilies,  110-13,  168,  315,  595,  596 ;  culture 
of,  in  ;  of  the  Field,  117 ;  of  the  Valley, 
315,  596 ;  of  the  Valley  grouped  with 
Solomon's,  Seal,  32;  of  the  Nile,  171, 
312;  for  peat  soil,  in  ;  for  strong  soil, 
in  ;  for  greenhouse,  315  ;  for  pots,  113  ; 
soil  for,  in  ;  African,  294,  595;  Arum, 
171,  312,  593;  Belladonna,  98;  Day, 
196,  566 ;  Day,  for  pond  sides,  593  ; 
Guernsey,  308;  Japanese,  112;  Lent, 
Wild,  116;  Madonna,  no;  Mariposa, 
culture  of,  98,  99,  151 ;  Martagon,  no, 
112  ;  Peruvian,  555,  595  ;  Plantain,  561 ; 
St.  Bruno's,  556,  595  ;  Scarborough,  313  ; 
selection  of,  no ;  Turk's  Cap,  no ; 
White  Wood,  572,  596 

Lilies,  Water,  in  tubs,  changing  the 
water,  177;  water,  soil  for,  177;  best 
varieties  of,  177 

Lilium  auratum,  113;  L.  candidum,  113; 


640 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


L.   excelsum,  113;    L.    Hansonii,  113; 

L.    Henryi,    113;  L.    longifolium,    113; 

L.  speciosum,  113;  L.  superbum,  168  ; 

L.  umbellatum,  113  ;  L.   Wallichianum 

superbum,  113 
Lime   and  Cherries,    428 ;    and   Heaths, 

382  ;    destroying  water-snail  with,  174 ; 

for  soil,  382 

Limes,  258  ;  Silver-leaved,  258 
Limnanthes  Douglasi,  544 
Linaria  alpina,  156,  166,  552  ;  L.  maroc- 

cana,  54  ;  Linarias,  156 
Ling,  179,  181,  184 
Lingustrum  japonicum,  591 
Linnaea  boreal  is,  168 
Linum  alpinum,   141 ;    L.    grandirlorum, 

55>  545  I  L-  monogynum,  597 ;    L.  nar- 

bonense,  597 ;  L.  perenne,  54 
Liquidambar  styraciflua,  243 
Liquid  manures,  75,  102,  382 
Liriodendron  Tulipfera,  243 
Lithospermum  Gastonii,  156 ;  L.  prostra- 

tum,  141,  552 
Loam,  meaning  of  term,   512  ;  value   of, 

285 
Lobelias,    307;     Blue,     as    edging,     64; 

Scarlet,   567;    Lobelia   cardinalis,   566, 

597 

Locust  Tree,  Common,  254 
Loganberry,  485 
London  Pride,  572 
Loniceras,  243,  276,  277  ;  L.  sempervirens, 

595 

Looking-Glass,  Venus',  548 
Loosestrife  for  pond  sides,  593 
Loropetalum  chinense,  243 
Lotus  peliorynchus,  597 
Love-in-a-Mist,  545 
Love  Lies  Bleeding,  545 
Lowberry,  486 
Low-growing   Shrubs    and    Conifers    for 

rock  gardens,  592 
Lunar ia  biennis,  567 

Lupine,  545  ;  Tree,  567 ;  varieties  of,  567 
Lychnis,  552  ;  varieties  of,  567 ;  L.  grandi- 

flora,  597 
Lycium  europasum,    277;    L.   barbarum, 

277 

Lyre  Flower,  38,  560,  597 
Lythrum  roseum  and  salicarum  for  pond 

sides,  593 

MACROTOMIA  echinoides,  556 
Madonna  lily,  no 
Maggot,  Carnation,  132 
Magnolias,  244,  271,  595  ;  pruning,  271  ; 
M.   conspicua,   591 ;    M.    stellata,    590, 

592 

Mahaleb  Cherry,  248 
Mahonia  aquifolium  and  varieties,  222 
Maidenhair  Fern,  334,  340 
Maidens,  meaning  of  term,  512 
Maiden's  Wreath,  307 
Maid  of  France,  Fair,  571 
Maize,  or  Sweetcorn,  408 
Male  Fern,  337 


Mallow,  Jews',  241 ;  Syrian,  238  ;  Tree,  545 
Malmaison  Carnations,  129 
I   Malope  grandiflora,  545 
Malus  baccata,  Siberian  Crab,  249  ;    M. 

Ringo,  249 

;    Mamillaria,  368,  371 
:    Mandevillea  suaveolens,  595 
Manure,  animal,  102,  381 ;  artificial,  381  ; 
chemical,  381 ;  for  Roses,  381  ;   liquid, 
75,  102,  382 ;  potting,  514  ;  sheep  drop- 
pings as,  75  ;  Tonk's,  75  ;  use  in  potting 
soils,  285  ;  water,  102 
i    Manuring,  380,  381,  382 
:    Maples,  213  ;  Golden,  265  ;  Japanese,  266 ; 

variegated,  265 
i    Maranta  arundinacea,  603 
;    March,  work  in  the  garden  in,  497;  work 

on  Roses  in,  90 
:    Marguerite,  307 ;   Carnations,   133 ;  daisy 

fly,  490 
;    Marguerites,  distance  apart  for  planting, 

65  ;  soil  for,  66  ;  White,  64 
;    Marigolds,  545;  African,  548;  Dwarf,  54; 
French,  548  ;  Marsh,  for  pond  sides,  593 
i    Mariposa  Lilies,  98,  151 
;    Marjoram  (see  Herbs),  419,  615 
|    Marl,  meaning  of  term,  512 
i    Marrows  (see  Vegetable  Marrows),  418,  615 
Marsh  Ledum,  242;   Marigold   for   pond 

sides,  593  ;  Rosemary,  218 
;    Martagon  Lilies,  no,  112 
Masdevallias,  325,  326 
Matthiola  bicornis,  52 
Maurandya  barclayana,  307 
Maxillarias,  varieties  of,  326 
May,  work  in  the  garden  in,  498;   work 

on  Roses  in,  91 

Meadow  Saffron,  100;  Saxifrage,  571 
Mealy  Bug,  367,  454 
Meconopsis,  568 

Medlar  Tree,  planting  for  its  beauty,  480 
Megaseas,  568 ;  M.  crassifolia,  597 
Melocactus  communis,  368 
Melons,  471 ;   culture  of  in  houses,  471 ; 
frame   culture    of,  474 ;    soil  for,  473 ; 
temperature  for,  473 
Mentha  Requienii,  165 
Menyanthes  trifoliata,  171 
i    Menziesia  polifolia,  147 
i   Mertensias,    568 ;    M.    primuloides,    156 ; 

M.  sibirica,  568  ;  M.  virginica,  568 
i    Mesembryanthemums,  597 
I    Mespilus,  Snowy,  217,  591 
|    Metrosideros  floribunda,  299 
,    Mexican  Laelias,  324, 325  ;  Orange  Flower, 

227,  591 

'    Mezereon,  231,  590,  594 
:    Mice  and  Sweet  Pea  seeds,  57 
j    Michaelmas  Daisies,  10 ;  in  mixed  borders, 

38 

!    Micromelis  Folgneri  pendula,  244 
Mignonette,  Reseda  odorata,  64,  65,  308, 
545  ;  in  mixed  borders,  40 ;  in  pots,  308  ; 
varieties  of,  545 
Mildew  on  Roses,  79  ;  on  Vines,  453 
'   Milfoils,  550 


INDEX 


641 


Milk  vetch,  550 

Milkwort,  Box-leaved,  247 

Milla  uniflora,  596 

Millipedes,  492 

Miltonias,  326 

Mimosa,  293 

Mimulus,  308 ;  M.  moschatus,  308,  568,  597 

Mina  lobata,  51,  549,  595 

Minorca  Box,  the,  224 

Mint  (see  Herbs),  419,  615 

Miscanthus,  170 

Miscellaneous  pot  plants  for  cold  green- 
house, 597 

Mistletoe,  261 

Mites,  492 

Mitraria  coccinea,  147 

Mixed  border,  the,  36-38 ;  Oriental  Pop- 
pies for,  28 

Mock  Oranges,  246,  269 ;  Dwarf,  590 ; 
pruning,  269 

Monarda,  568  ;  M.  didyma,  568 

Monkey  Flower,  308,  568,  597;  as  pot 
plants,  308 

Monkey  Puzzle,  592,  593 

Monkshood,  196 

Montbretias,  569,  596 

Monterey  Cypress,  593 

Monthly  Rose,  87 

Monthly  Work,  Calendar  of,  496-503 

Moraine  garden,  the,  Androsaces  for, 
156  ;  best  plants  for,  155  ;  Campanulas 
for,  156 ;  Dianthuses  for,  156 ;  how  to 
make  a,  152  ;  position  of,  153  ;  Ranun- 
culuses for,  157 ;  Saxifragas  for,  157 ; 
Silenes  for,  157 ;  soil  for,  154 ;  water 
supply  of,  155 

Morello  cherry,  428 

Morina  longiflora,  568 

Morisia  hypogoea,  156 

Moser's  Purple  Plum,  265 

Mother  of  Thousands,  572 

Moulding  up,  meaning  of  term,  513 

Mountain  Ash,  209,  249 ;  Laurel,  241 ; 
Pinks,  138 

Mourning  Iris,  20 

Moutan  Paeonies,  21 

Mowing  lawns,  188,  190 

Mulberry,  486 

Mulching,  621 ;  Roses,  75  ;  the  border,  42 

Munstead  Primroses,  30,  46 

Muscaris,  the,  113,  152  ;  for  rock  gardens, 
152  ;  M.  botryoides  album,  596 

Mushroom,  culture  of,  408 

Musk,  308,  568,  597 

Mustard  and  Cress,  414 

Myosotis,  568,  597  ;  M.  alpestris,  552  ;  M. 
rupicola,  156 

Myrobalan,  Purple,  265 

Myrrhis  odorata,  97 

Myrsiphyllum  asparagoides,  308 

Myrtle,  large-leaved,  597;  sand,  242; 
small-leaved,  595 

NAILS  AND  SHREDS,  621 
Names    for    Wild    and   Garden    flowers, 
English,  531 


Nandinadomestica,  147 

Narcissi,  113-16,158,  316,596;  dividing, 
114  ;  for  borders,  116  ;  for  bowls  without 
drainage,  115;  for  cutting,  116  ;  for  early 
pot  work,  115  ;  for  later  pot  work,  115  ; 
for  planting  in  grass,  116  ;  for  pots,  selec- 
tion of,  316;  for  rockeries,  115,  151; 
Poet's,  96,  116;  time  to  leave  in  the 
ground,  114  ;  under  glass,  158  ;  varieties 
of,  552 ;  when  to  plant,  114  ;  N.  minimus, 
151 ;  N.  polyanthus,  115 

Narrow  border  on  a  lawn,  63 

Nasturtiums,  64,  65,  545,  549,  595  ;  Dwarf 
in  rock  garden,  150 ;  climbing  for 
greenhouse,  313  ;  Flame,  277,  573 

National  Auricula  Society,  mentioned,  12 

Navel- Wort,  553 

Nectarines,  culture  of,  474 ;  for  pot  culture, 
485;  leaf-curl  in,  493;  selection  of, 
610 

Needle,  Adam's,  260 

Nemesias  for  the  rock  garden,  146;  N. 
hybrida,  54 

Nemophila  insignis,  53,  54,  65,  545 

Nepaul  White  Beam  Tree,  249 

Nepenthes,  604 

Nepeta  Mussinii,  163 

Nerine,  varieties  of,  308 

Nerium  Oleander,  308,  594,  595 

Nests,  destroying  wasps',  617 

Netted  Iris,  109 

Newberry,  486 

New  Jersey  Tea,  226 

New  Zealand  Daisy  Bush,  245  ;  Fern,  336, 
347  ;  Reed,  219 

Nicotiana,  545;  N,  affinis,  52;  N.  sylves- 
tris,  545 

Nierembergia  rivularis,  553 

Nigella  in  mixed  border,  40  ;  N.  damas- 
cena,  545 

Night  flowering  Cacti,  367 

Night-scented  Stock,  in  mixed  border,  40 

Nile,  Lily  of  the,  171,  312 

Nitrate  of  soda,  as  an  insecticide,  495 

Noccsea  alpina,  552 

Noisette  Roses,  strong  growing,  580 

Nordmann's  Fir,  593 

Norfolk  Island  Pine,  295 

North-American  silk  grass,  261 

November,  work  in  the  garden  in,  502  ; 
work  on  Roses  in,  94 

Nut,  Bladder,  257 ;  Golden-leaved,  266  ; 
Purple-leaved,  266 

Nuts,  Cob,  476;  culture  [of,  475;  Filbert, 
476 ;  planting  with  fruit  trees,  476 ; 
varieties  of,  477 

Nuttallia  cerasiformis,  244 

Nymphaea  (Water  Lily),  593  ;  best  varieties 
for  tub  culture,  177  ;  culture  of  in  tubs , 
175,  division  of,  171,  enemies  of,  174; 
freedom  of  growth  of,  169 ;  method  of 
planting,  171 ;  popularity  of,  168  ;  season 
for  planting,  and  seedlings,  172 ;  soil 
for,  171 ;  utility  of,  169  ;  value  in  water 
garden,  170;  varieties  of,  173 

Nyssa  sylvatica,  245 

2  S 


642 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


OAK,  249  ;  American  Scarlet,  249  ;  Cork, 
250  ;  English,  250  ;  Evergreen,  250,  291 ; 
Golden-leaved,  250,  265;  Golden-leaved 
American,  265;  Holm,  250;  Purple- 
leaved,  265  ;  Red,  249 ;  Sweet,  250  ; 
Turkey,  249 

Oak  Fern,  340 

October,  work  in  the  garden  in,  502  ;  work 
on  Roses  in,  94 

Odontoglossum,  325-328 

CEnotheras,  196;  O.  macrocarpa,  553 

Oil  lamps  for  heating  greenhouses,  283, 
284 

Old  trees,  care  of,  616 

Oleander,  the,  308,  595 

Olearias,  245  ;  O.  Haastii,  192,  591 

Oleasters,  232 

Omphalodes  luciliae,  553  ;  O.  verna,  553, 

569 

Oncidiums,  328 
Oncocyclus  Iris,  20 
Onions,   595 ;    culture  of,   408,  614 ;    for 

spring,   summer,    autumn,    and    winter 

sowing,  410,  614  ;  varieties  of,  410 
Ononis  rotundifolius,  597 
Onosma  tauricum,  141,  553 
Open  spaces  near  large  towns,  Roses  for, 

58i 

Ophiopogon  spicatum  variegatum,  308 
Opuntias,  369,  370,  371 
Orange  Ball  Tree,  223 
Orange-flowered  annuals,  54 
Orange  fungus  on  Roses,  80 
Orange,  Mock,  246,   269  ;    Dwarf,    590  ; 

pruning,  269 

Orange  Flower,  Mexican,  591 
Orange  Trees,  594 
Orchard,  suggestions  for  small,  480 
Orchid  house,   319 ;    ventilation  of,   319  ; 

plants,  treatment  of  imported,  327,  328 
Orchids  as  town  plants,  320  ;  for  beginners, 

318-31 ;    former    destruction    of,    319 ; 

hardy,  331  ;  insect  pests  infecting,  329, 

33° 

Orchises,  331 

Oriental  Poppies,  28  ;  in  the  mixed  border, 
38 

Ornamental  trees  and  shrubs,  how  to  ar- 
range, 264 

Ornaments,  fruit  trees  as  garden,  479 

Ornithogalum,  116;  O.  arabicum,  596; 
O.  nutans,  596 

Orobus  vernus,  597 

Osmanthuses,  592  ;  O.  ilicifolius,  591 

Osmunda  regalis,  168 

Osoberry,  244 

Oswego  Tea,  568 

Othonnopsis  cheirifolia,  553 

Ourisia  coccinea,  553 

Outdoor  flowers,  protection  of,  in  winter, 
625 

Own  root,  meaning  of  term,  513 

Oxalis,  varieties  of,  309,  596 ;  O.  ennea- 
phylla,  141 

Oxlip,  30 

Ozothamnus  rosmarinifolius,  245 


PEONIES,  Chinese,  or  herbaceous,  22 ; 
Moutan,  21;  Moutan  in  pots,  594;  soil 
for,  22;  time  to  plant,  21  ;  Tree,  21, 
570  ;  varieties  of,  22,  569 

Packing  flowers,  621 

Palms,  varieties  of,  greenhouse,  309  ;  Fan, 
596  ;  Parlour,  596 

Pancratium  fragrans,  604 

Pandanus  Veitchi,  604 

Pansies,  23 ;  raising  from  cuttings  and 
seed,  24  ;  seasons  for  planting,  24  ;  soil 
for,  23  ;  to  make  cuttings  of,  23 ;  treat- 
ment of  cuttings,  23  ;  treatment  of  when 
received,  24;  tufted,  23 

Papaver  alpinum,  156,  166  ;  P.  orientale, 
570 ;  P.  Rhceas,  29 

Paraffin  emulsion,  494 

Parasol  de  St.  Julien,  591 

Paris  green,  495 

Parkes'  Rocket,  32 

Parlour  palm,  596 

Parrot  Tulips,  120 

Parrotia  persica,  245 

Parsley,  419,  614 

Parsley-leaved  Blackberry,  486 

Parsnips,  culture  of,  410,  614;  Cow,  514 

Pasque  Flower,  4 

Passiflora,  277,  309 

Passion  Flower,  the,  277,  309 

Paths,  garden,  making  of,  393 

Paulownia  imperialis,  245 

Paved  Garden,  the,  163  ;  Alpines  for,  165  ; 
at  Kensington  Gardens,  165  ;  dwarf 
plants  for  the,  165 

Paved  lavender  walk,  166 

Pavia,  see  ^Esculus,  215 

Paving  in  the  Rose  garden,  165  ;  stones, 
best  sizes  and  shapes  of,  165 

Pea,  Glory,  594  ;  Lord  Anson's,  544  ;  Tree, 
Siberian,  224  ;  Weevil,  491 

Peach  Tree,  247  ;  Purple-leaved,  265 

Peach-leaved  Bell  flower,  299 

Peaches,  cultivation  of,  474 ;  leaf-curl  in, 
493 ;  selection  of,  609 ;  varieties  for  pot 
culture,  475 

Pear,  Bush,  431 ;  Cordons,  434  ;  cultivation 
of,  429;  Espalier,  431;  Fan -trained, 
433  I  gathering  the  fruit,  436  ;  grafting, 
430,  481  ;  pruning  the  spurs  and  roots, 
and  in  winter,  435 ;  Pyramid,  430 ; 
rooms  for  storing  fruit,  437  ;  saw-fly,  490 ; 
selection  of,  for  cooking,  608  ;  and  for 
dessert,  606  ;  stocks  for  grafting,  430  ; 
summer  treatment  of,  431 

Pearl  Bush,  235 

Peas,  culture  of,  410,  614  ;  diseases  of,  411  ; 
time  of  sowing,  411 ;  varieties  of,  411,  614 

Peas,  Sweet,  54 ;  and  mice,  57 ;  culture  of, 
56;  for  the  garden,  59;  planting  out, 
57;  protecting  from  frost,  57;  soil  for, 
56  ;  sowing,  56 ;  sticks  for  supporting, 
58;  varieties  for  exhibition,  58 

Peat,  meaning  of  term,  513  ;  how  used,  285 
Pegging-down  Roses,  86 
Pelargoniums,  309-10;  Ivy-leaved,  309;  Ivy- 
leaved,  for  greenhouse  walls,  309 ;  large- 


INDEX 


643 


flowered,  310;  scented,  310;  treatment 

of,  310  ;  Zonal,  64,  65  ;  Zonal,  as  edging, 

63;    Zonal,   for   summer   bedding,   63; 

Zonal,  for  winter  flowering,  310 
Pentstemons,  597 ;  culture  of,  24 ;  propa- 
gating by  cuttings,  25  ;  varieties  of,  553  ; 

P.  barbatus  Torreyi,  570 
Perennial  Larkspur,  196,  560 ;  Potentilla, 

571  ;  Sunflowers,  34,  563  ;  Sunflowers  in 

mixed  borders,  40 
Perennials,  Hardy,  for  town  gardens,  196; 

from  seeds,  46 ;  various  kinds  of,  555 
Pepper  Tree,  Alder-leaved,  227 
Pereskia,  369 
Pergola,  621 ;  Brambles  suitable  for,  255  ; 

Roses  for  arches  and,  575 
Peristeria  elata,  328,  329 
Periwinkles  for  planting  in  shade  and  drip, 

260 
Pernettyas,  245,  591,  592;  P.  mucronata, 

595 
Perpetual  FloweringCarnations,i3o;  Roses, 

hybrid,  73,  81 
Persian  Cyclamen,  302 
Peruvian  Lilies,  555,  595 
Pests,  Insect,   16,  79,  102,  131,  292,  329, 

33°-  36p.  361,  367.  487-495 

Petrocallis  pyrenaica,  157,  553 

Petunias,  various  uses  of,  310 ;  single- 
flowered,  65  ;  soil  for,  66 

Phacelia  campanularia,  54,  149,  546 

Phaius,  329 

Philadelphuses,  246,  269  ;  P.  Lemoinei 
erectus,  590;  pruning,  369 

Phillyraea,  246  ;  P.  media,  592 

Phloxes,  196,  597 ;  culture  of,  26 ;  Dwarf, 
138  ;  herbaceous,  25,  570 ;  herbaceous  for 
pond  sides,  593;  soil  for,  26;  time  to 
plant,  26  ;  varieties  of,  27,  553  ;  P.  Drum- 
mondii,  54,  63,  64;  P.  setacea  and 
varieties,  141,  553;  P.  superlata,  165 

Phygelius  capensis,  570 

Phyllocactus,  369 

Phyllostachys  nigra,  221 

Physalis,  570 

Phyteuma  comosa,  553 

Piceas,  592 ;  varieties  of,  593,  594 ;  P. 
morinda,  591 

Picotees,  128;  best  yellow  and  white  ground 
varieties,  128 

Pieris,  246;  P.  floribunda,  592 

Pillar  Roses,  85,  577  ;    seven  to  ten  feet 

high.  577 

Pillars,  Brambles  suitable  for,  255 

Pim,  Mr.  Greenwood,  quoted,  549 

Pimpernel,  149 

Pine,  592  ;  Austrian,  591,  594  ;  Bhotan,  594; 
Chili,  593;  Corsican,  594;  Norfolk  Is- 
land, 295  ;  Stone,  594 ;  Swiss  Stone,  594 ; 
Weymouth,  594  ;  P.  insignis,  £91 

Pines,  594  ;  for  rock  gardens,  147 

Pin-eye,  meaning  of  term,  521 

Pink-flowered  annuals,  54 

Pinks,  27,  570,  597  ;  as  an  edging,  27  ;  best 
laced  varieties,  28  ;  common  white,  27  ; 
Indian,  148 ;  for  rock  gardens,  149 ; 


Mountain,  138  ;  propagation  by  cuttings 
or  pipings,  27  ;  by  layering,  28  ;  raising 
single,  from  seed,  28  ;  Sea,  140 ;  seed- 
ling in  dry  walls,  163 ;  soil  for,  27 ; 
varieties  of,  27  ;  wireworm  in,  27 
Pip,  meaning  of  term,  513 

Pipings,  propagating  Pinks  by,  27 

Piptanthus  nepalensis,  247 

Plan  of  kitchen  garden,  390,  391 ;  for  Rose 
garden,  68 ;  for  spring  bedding,  60,  61  ; 
for  summer  bedding,  62,  63,  64,  65  ;  of 
Tulip  bed,  120 

Plane  Tree,  247 

Plantain  Lily,  561 

Planting  wall  garden,  162  ;  and  shelter- 
ing an  exposed  flower-border,  622; 
Roses,  68 ;  spring  flowers,  60 ;  the 
border,  38 ;  steep  sunny  bank  of  poor 
soil,  623 

Plants,  cleaning,  616 ;  dwarf,  for  paved 
garden,  165  ;  easily  raised  from  seed, 
groups  of,  49  ;  foliage,  annuals  as,  52  ; 
for  border,  choice  of,  38  ;  for  cold  green- 
house, 594  ;  for  dry-wall  garden,  163 ; 
for  pond  sides,  593  ;  for  rooms,  621,  622  ; 
for  water  surface,  a  few,  593 ;  garden, 
that  will  bear  flooding,  617  ;  hedge,  592  ; 
keeping  in  winter,  203  ;  miscellaneous 
for  growing  under  glass,  159 ;  rabbit 
proof,  624 ;  raising  from  cuttings,  209 ; 
shrubby  for  cold  greenhouse,  594  ;  some 
foliage,  for  cold  greenhouse,  596 ;  staking 
border,  42 ;  stove,  600  ;  to  cover  north 
paling,  617  ;  useful  greenhouse,  293-317 

Platanus  acerifolia,  247 

Platycodon  grandiflorum,  570 

Plum  in  small  orchard,  480  ;  Moser's 
Purple  265  ;  Purple-leaved,  248  ;  selec- 
tion of  plums  for  cooking,  609 ;  for 
dessert,  608;  varieties  of  the,  428;  for 
pot  culture,  485 

Plumbago  capensis,  as  greenhouse  climber, 
310;  P.  Larpentae,  553,  570 

Plume  Poppy,  559 

Podocarpus,  592 

Poet's  Narcissus,  96,  116 

Poinciana  Gilliesi,  594 

Pointing,  meaning  of  term,  514 

Pointsettia  pulcherrima,  604 

Poison  Ivy,  the,  253 

Poker,  Red-hot,  566,  596 

Polemonium  caeruleum,  570 ;  P.  con- 
fertum,  157,  553 

Polyanthus,  29 ;  raising  from  seed,  29 ; 
Narcissus,  114,  115 

Polygala,  553;  P.  Chamaebuxus,  247;  P. 
dalmaisiana,  594 

Polygonatum,   57d ;    P.    multiflorum,   32, 

Polygonum,  553,  571  ;  P.  baldschuanicum, 
277  ;  P.  cuspidatum,  and  P.  sachalinense, 
for  pond  sides,  593  ;  P.  orientale,  51 

Polypodies,  varieties  of,  340 

Polystichums,  varieties  of,  339 

Pomegranate,  the,  528 

Pond  flower,  Cape,  593 


644 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


Pond,  scum  on  a,  529 

Pond  sides,  Irises  for,  593  ;  plants  for,  593 

Poplar,    591  ;    Populus  tremula   pendula, 

591 ;  P.  tremuloides,  591 
Poppies,  546,  570,  597 ;  Californian  Bush, 
254;  Carnation-flowered,  546;  Eastern, 
570;  Iceland,  28  ;  Oriental,  28  ;  Oriental 
in  mixed  border,  38 ;  Perennial,  570 ; 
Plume,  559  ;  raising  from  seed,  29  ;  Wild 
Field  and  Shirley,  29 

Populus  tremula  pendula,  591  ;  P.  tremu- 
loides, 591 
Portulaca,  the,  64,  149 ;  for  rock  gardens, 

149 

Potato,  411,  615;  disease,  413;  history 
and  habitat,  410;  moulding  the  plants, 
413  ;  planting  the  sets,  413  ;  preserving 
seed  tubers,  412  ; 'propagation  of  the, 
411 ;  raising  from  seed,  412  ;  varieties, 
413,  615 

Porous,  meaning  of  term,  514 
Pot  culture,  Figs  for,  469  ;  for  fruit  trees, 
481 ;  hints  on  potting,  624 ;  hybrid  per- 
petual Roses  for,  578;    Lilies  for,  113; 
measurements  of  garden  pots  for,  509  ; 
Mignonette  for,  40  ;  Monkey  flower  for, 
308 ;    Roses,  578,  580 ;   Solomon's  Seal 
for,  315  ;  Strawberry  forcing,  458  ;  Straw- 
berry, varieties    for,    462 ;    varieties   of 
Hyacinths,  Narcissi,  and  Tulips  for,  316 
Pot  plants  for  cold  greenhouse,  597 
Potentilla,  553,  571 
Potting-manure,  meaning  of  term,  514 
Prairie  Rose,  584 
Pratia  angulata,  168 
Prickly  Heaths,  245  ;    leaved  Holly,  239, 

591-2 ;  Thrift,  550 

Primrose,  29,  553,  571  ;  Blue,  31 ;  bunch- 
flowered,  38  ;  Cape,  307  ;  common  wild, 
29  ;  Dame  Sunflower,  34 ;  double,  30 ; 
Evening,  553,  569 ;  Japan,  for  pond 
sides,  593  ;  Munstead,  30 
Primroses  and  Polyanthuses,  29  ;  raising 

from  seed,  29 
Primula  auricula,  11-17 
Primulas,   597 ;    for    rock    gardens,    158 ; 
Japanese,  311;  Star,  311 ;   under  glass, 
158;    varieties    of,    311,   553,   571;    P. 
Chinense,   311;  P.   floribunda,  311;  P. 
intermedia,  157 ;   P.  japonica,  for  pond 
sides,    593 ;     P.    marginata,     141 ;     P. 
pubescens,  141 ;  P.  spectabilis,  157 
Privet,  242,  592 ;  Golden,  266 ;  oval-leaved, 

242;  variegated,  266 
Propagation,  meaning  of  term,  515 
Prophet  Flower,  550,  556 
Prostrate-growing  annuals,  54 
Protecting  Alpines,   142 ;    Rose    blooms, 
78 ;  Sweet  Peas,  57 ;  Tulips,  118,  winter 
flowers,  617,  625 

Pruning  fruit  trees,  424  ;  Grape  Vine,  449  ; 
hardy  flowering  shrubs,  267  ;  root,  271 ; 
Roses,  71 

Prunus,  varieties  of,  247,  270,  591,  592, 
595 ;  P.  amygdalus,  591 ;  P.  avium  flore 
pleno,  591 ;  P.  japonica  flore  alba  pleno, 


590 ;  P.    Moseri  flore    pleno,    265 ;    P. 

persica  purpurea,  265  ;  P.  Pissardii,  265  ; 

P.  serrulata  flore  pleno,  591 ;  P,  triloba 

flore   pleno,   590 ;    P.  triloba  for  walls, 

248 

Pseudo  bulb,  meaning  of  term,  515 
Ptarmicoides,  556 
Pteris  aquilina,  340 
Pterocarya  caucasica,  247 
Purple  Barberry,  266  ;  leaved  Beech,  265  ; 

leaved  Nut,  266  ;  Myrobalan,  265  ;  Oak, 

265  ;  Peach,  265  ;  Plum,  Moser's,  265 
Purslane,  Tree,  266 

Puschkinias,  97  ;  P.  scilloides,  106,  554 
Puzzle,  Monkey,  593 
Pyramid,  meaning  of  term,  515 
Pyrethrums,  31,  569 ;  soil  for,  31 ;  varie- 
ties of,  31 
Pyrus,  248,  270,   271 ;    P.  aria,  249 ;    P. 

aria  magestica,   591 ;  P.   baccata,   249 ; 

P.   floribunda  atrosanguinea,    591 ;    P. 

japonica,  or  Cydonia  japonica,  248  ;   P. 

japonica,    pruning,  271 ;    P.  spectabilis 

flore  pleno,  591 

QUAKING  grass,  549 

Quamash,  the,  99,  559 

Quassia,  494 

Quercus,  varieties  of,  249  ;  G.  ilex,  591 ; 

G.  pedunculata  concordia  and  purpurea , 

265  ;  G.  rubra  aurea,  265 
Quick,  or  Thorn,  592 
Quince,  English,  479  ;  Japanese,  248,  479  ; 

planting  for  its  beauty,  479 

RABBIT  proof  plants,  624 

Racemes  and  spikes,  meaning  of  terms, 

518 
Radishes,  413,  614 ;  sowing  for  successive 

crops,  413  ;  varieties  of,  414 
Raising  hardy  flowers  from  seed,  44 
Ramondia  Natalias,   141 ;    R.    pyrenaica, 

140,  554 

Ranunculus,  554 ;  for  moraine  gardens, 
157;  Persian  varieties,  596;  R.  aconiti- 
folius,  571 ;  R.  lingua,  for  pond  sides, 

593 

Rape  (see  Small  Salads),  414 

Raphiolepis  japonica,  250 

Raspberry,  the,  477 ;  North- American 
Purple-flowered,  255  ;  planting,  time  for, 
477 ;  propagation  of,  478 ;  selection  of, 
612 ;  selection  of  autumn  fruiting,  612  ; 
summer  and  autumn  fruiting  varieties, 
479  ;  summer  treatment  of,  478 

Red  Cabbage,  401 ;  Currants,  467,  613  ; 
rust  on  Roses,  80  ;  spider,  79,  453,  492  ; 
Valerian,  559 

Red  flowered  Annuals,  54,  55 

Red-hot  Poker,  566,  596 

Reed,  Great,  219  ;  New  Zealand  Reed,  219 

Regal  Lodge,  Kentford,  gardens  at,  166 

Re-planting  or  renovating  borders,  41 

Reseda  odorata,  64,  65,  308,  545 

Repotting,  624 


INDEX 


645 


Rest  Harrow,  597 
Retentive,  meaning  of  term,  515 
Retinosporas,  592;    for  the  rock   garden, 
147;   R.  obtusa,   147,  593;    R.  pisifera, 

593 

Rhipsalis,  369 

Rhizome,  meaning  of  term,  516 

Rhododendrons,  250-53,  271,  311,  312, 
592,  595  ;  a  few  choice  hybrid,  252  ;  and 
lime,  382  ;  deciduous,  251,  evergreen, 
252 ;  for  rock  gardens,  146,  252  ; 
Fortunei  hybrids,  253 ;  grouping  for 
colour  effect,  251  ;  propagation  of,  250  ; 
pruning,  271 

Rhodotypuskerrioides,  253 

Rhubarb,  culture  of,  414,  614 

Rhus,  253 

Ribbon  grass,  597 

Ribes,  253;  R.  sanguinea,  595;  R.  san- 
guineum  atrorubens,  590 

Richardia  sethiopica,  171,  312 

Ricinus,  312  ;  for  greenhouse,  312 

Rind  grafting,  427 

Roads  and  paths,  the  making  of  garden, 

393-96 

Robinias,  254  ;  R.  hispida  mermis,  590 
Rochea  falcata,  597 

Rock  Cress,  550  ;  White  Rock  Cress,  196  ; 
Rock  foils,  571 ;  Rose,  227 

Rock  Garden,  the,  a  selection  of  plants  for, 
141,  550-554;  autumn  flowering  plants 
for,  144;  Abies  for,  146;  Anemones, 
152;  annuals  for,  148;  Antirrhinums 
for,  148;  Aureas  for,  150;  Berberises 
for,  147 ;  bulbs  for,  151  ;  Candytufts 
for,  150;  Cistuses  for,  147  ;  Cotoneasters 
for,  147  ;  Cyclamens  for,  151  ;  Daphnes 
for,  147;  dwarf  Nasturtiums  for,  150; 
dwarf  trees  and  shrubs  for,  146  ;  Ericas 
for,  147 ;  Genistas  for,  147 ;  Indian 
Pinks  for,  148  ;  Junipers  for,  147  ;  Lark- 
spurs for,  148;  Nemesias  for,  146; 
Pines  for,  147 ;  Portulacas  for,  149 ; 
Retinosporas  for,  149;  Rhododendrons 
for,  146,  252;  Saxifragas  for,  141; 
Scillas  for,  152 ;  Silenes  for,  139 ;  Snap- 
dragons for,  148  ;  soil  for,  139  ;  Statices 
for,  147  ;  thinning  annuals  for,  149 

Rocket,  Double  White,  566;  Dwarf,  544; 
Eglinton,  32 ;  French  White,  32 ; 
Parke's,  32;  Scotch,  32;  Sweet  and 
Double,  31,  566,  571 

Rocky  Mountain  Bramble,  255 

Rod  and  Lateral,  meaning  of  terms,  516 

Rod,  Golden,  572 

Rolling  lawns  in  winter,  190 

Roman  Hyacinths,  596 

Romneya  Coulteri,  254 

Rooms,  plants  for,  622 

Root,  own,  meaning  of  term,  513;  prun- 
ing, 271 ;  meaning  of  term,  516 

Rosa  rugosa,  Japanese,  192 

Rose,  Christmas,  563 ;  Guelder,  259,  592 ; 
Prairie,  584;  Rock,  227;  Sun,  138,  237 
552,  592  ;  wild,  591 

Roses,    67-95 1    as   hedges,  87 ;    as   large 


bushes,  583  ;  beds,  double  digging  of, 
67;  best  species,  583;  black  spot  on, 
80;  borders  under  glass,  83;  budding, 
75  ;  budding  Standard  Briars,  77  ;  bushes 
and  short  standards  for  windy  places, 

574  ;  bush  varieties  for  quite  small  gar- 
dens, 574 ;  button-hole,  584  ;  canker  on, 
80 ;    China,    88 ;    classed   according   to 
colour,     585 ;      Climbing,     for     green- 
house   roof,    577 ;     climbers    grown    as 
bushes,  578  ;  Climbing,  73,  82  ;  Creeping, 
85  ;  disbudding,   75 ;   distance  apart  to 
plant,  70;  Dog,  584;  Dwarf,  for  frame 
or  house  culture,  590 ;    Dwarf  Tea  for 
garden,  579;    for  arches  and  Pergolas, 

575  ;  for  hedges,  86,  587,  588 ;  for  open 
spaces  near  large  towns,  581 ;  for  poor 
soil,    581 ;     for    smoky    districts,    581 ; 
fragrant  (very),   589;   green  centres  in, 
89;     Hybrid    Perpetual,    73,    81,    578; 
Hybrid    Tea,   73,    576,    580;    in   small 
greenhouses,  83  ;  Japanese,  87  ;  manures 
for,  74,  75;   Mildew  on,  79;  Monthly, 
87;  mulching,  75;  Noisettes,  580;  over 
old  trees,  95  ;  paving  in  the  Rose-garden, 
165;    pegging-down,   86;    pests,  insect, 
79;   Pillar,  85,  577;  planting,  68;  pot- 
ting, 84;  preparation  of  soil  for,  86 ;  pro- 
pagating by  cuttings,  71,  77  ;  protecting 
blooms  of,   78  ;   pruning,  71,  72 ;   pur- 
chasing, 68  ;  red  rust  on,  80  ;  red  spider 
on,  79  ;  selections  of,  87, 574-590 ;  Scotch, 
584 ;  single  and  semi-double,  578 ;   soil 
for,  67 ;   Standard,    73,   81 ;  stocks  for, 
70 ;  strong-growing  Teas,  Hybrid  Teas, 
and   Noisettes,   580 ;    Sweet   Briar,   87 ; 
Sun,  138  ;  Tea  and  Hybrid,  73,  80,  580  ; 
Tea   and    Hybrid    Tea,   for  walls,   81  ; 
thinning  and  disbudding,  75  ;  time  for 
planting,  68  ;  treatment  after  first  flower- 
ing, 78  ;  under  glass,  82,  83  ;  very  frag- 
rant, 589 ;  watering  and  syringing,  74; 
what    to    prune    with,  and    when,   72 
work  month  by  month,  89-94 

Rosemary,  254  ;  the  Marsh,  218 
Rosette  Mullein,  553 
Royal  Fern,  340  ;  for  pond  sides,  593 
Rubus,  varieties  of,  255,  270;  pruning  of, 

270 ;    R.   biflorus,   270 ;    R.  lasiostylus, 

591  ;  R.  rosaefolius,  594 
Rudbeckias,  546,  571 ;  in  mixed  borders,  40 
Runner  Beans,  398,  613 
Runners,  meaning  of  term,  517 
Ruscus,  592  ;  R.  racemosus,  596 
Rush,  the  Flowering,  171 
Russian  Kale,  402 
Rust,  131 ;  red,  on  Roses,  80 

SADDLE  grafting,  427 

Saffron,  Meadow,  100 

Sage  (see  Herbs),  growing,  419,  615 

Sage  Bush,  United  States,  266 

St.  Bruno's  Lily,  556,  595 

St.  Dabeoc's  or  Irish  Heath,  185,  230 

St.  John's  Wort,  239 

St.  Julien,  Parasol  de,  591 


646 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


Salads,  small,  414 

Salisburia  adiantifolia,  594 

Salix   babylonica,   591  ;   S.   elegantissima, 

Salpiglossis,  soil  for,  63  ;  S.  sinuata,  546-8 
Salsafy,  culture  of,  415 
Salvias,  312,  597 

Sambucus,  255  ;  S.  canadensis  aurea,  591 ; 
S.  nigra  foliis  aureis,  266  ;  S.  racemosus, 

S91 

Sand,  usful  in  potting  soils,  285 
Sand  Myrtle,  242  ;  Verbena,  148 
Sandworts,  550 

Santolina  Chamsecyparissus,  266 
Saponaria  calabrica,  548;  S.  ocymoides, 

554  ;  S.  ofncinalis,  571 
Satin-flower,  554,  596 
Savory  (see  Herbs),  419,  614 
Savoys,  402,  614 

Saw  Fly,  currant,  490;  pear,  490 
Saxifragas,   140,  141,   157,   158,   168,  554, 

571,  597;    Meadow,  571;    under  glass, 

158  ;  S.  Aizoon  Portae,  141 ;  S.  muscoides 

atropurpureum,   165;    S.    peltata,    170; 

S.  Rhei,  165 
Scabiosa,  572 
Scarborough  Lily,  313 
Scarlet  American  Oak,  249;  lobelia,  567; 

Runner  Beans,  398,  613 
Schizanthus,  312,  548 
Schizopetalon  Walked,  548 
Schizostylis  coccinea,  116,  596 
Sciadopitys  verticillata,  592 
Scillas,  or  Squills,  97,  116,  152,  596  ;  for 

rock-gardens,  152 
Scions,  meaning  of  term,  510 
Scirpus  lacustris,  169 
Scolopendrium  vulgare,  339 
Scorzonera,  culture  of,  415 
Scotch    Heath,    the,     185 ;     Kale,    402 ; 

Rocket,  32  ;  Rose,  584 
Scum  on  a  pond,  529 
Sea  Buckthorn,  238,  591 ;    Hollies,   561  ; 

Kale,  415,  614;  Pinks,  140 
Sea-coast,  Evergreen  Trees  and  Shrubs  for, 

Sedums,  140,  554,  572,  597;  S.  farinosum, 
165  ;  S.  obtusatum,  141 

Seeds,  Conifer,  208  ;  grass,  sowing,  187  ; 
groups  of  plants  easily  raised  from,  49  ; 
Hardy  Perennials  from,  46 ;  of  trees 
and  shrubs,  206 ;  ordering,  624  ;  raising 
Half-hardy  Annuals  from,  55;  raising 
hardy  flowers  from,  44 ;  remarks  on, 
44;  sowing  51,  497,  624;  sowing  in 
concrete  walls,  625 ;  sowing  Sweet  Pea, 

Selaginellas,  varieties  of,  345 
Sempervivums,  554  ;  S.  arachnoideum ,  141, 

165 

Senecio,  572 
Senna,  Bladder,  228 
September,  work  in  the  garden   in,  501 ; 

work  on  Roses  in,  93 
Shade,  shrubs  for  planting  under,  592 
Shading,  meaning  of  term,  517 


Shady  places,  Day  Lilies  for,  196;  Solomon's 
Seal  for,  32  ;  Wood  Anemones  for,  3 

Shallots,  415 

Sheep  droppings  for  Roses,  75 

Sheep  Laurel,  241 

Sheltering  an  exposed  flower-border,  623 

Shelters,  625 

Shield  Fern  and  varieties,  337,  339 

"  Shift,  giving  a,"  meaning  of  term,  509 

Shirley  Poppies  (see  Poppies),  29 

Shortia  galacifolia,  141 

Shot,  Indian,  300 

Shreds  and  nails,  621 

Shrubby  plants  for  cold  greenhouse,  594 

Shrubs,  590 ;  and  Conifers  for  rock-garden, 
146,  592  ;  and  trees,  beautiful,  204 ;  de- 
ciduous, 266,  590,  591 ;  description  and 
selection  of  the  best,  212;  Evergreen, 
266;  Evergreen  for  sea -coast,  591; 
Evergreen,  trailing,  260;  for  forcing,  592 ; 
for  planting  under  shade,  592  ;  for  rock- 
gardens,  146;  for  small  gardens,  Deci- 
duous and  Evergreen  flowering,  590,  591 ; 
for  town  gardens,  194-5;  f°r  windy 
places,  flowering  trees  and,  617  ;  grafting, 
205,  212;  hedges  of  flowering,  620;  how 
to  arrange  ornamental  trees  and,  264 ; 
propagation  by  seeds,  cuttings,  layers, 
root-cutting  and  grafting,  205-212 ; 
pruning  hardy  flowering,  267-271 ;  weep- 
ing, 591 ;  with  beautiful  fruit,  591 ;  with 
conspicuous  bark,  591 

Shuttlecock  Fern,  338 

Siberian  Iris,  20  ;  Iris  for  pond  sides,  593  ; 
Siberian  Pea  Tree,  224 

Sibthorpia  europeea,  168 

Silenes,  the,  149,  554  ;  for  moraine  gardens, 
151 ;  for  rock-gardens,  149,  554 ;  S. 
acaulis,  62,  165  ;  S.  compacta,  54 ;  S. 
schafta,  141 

Silk  Grass,  North  American,  261 

Silver  Bell  Tree,  American,  237;  Fir, 
Grecian,  593  ;  Holly,  266;  leaved  Lime, 
258 

Sisyrinchium  grandiflorum,  554,  596 

Sizes  and  shapes  of  paving-stones,  165 

Skimmias,  256,  591,  592 

Skip- jack,  to  destroy,  488 

Slipperwort,  298 

Sloping  banks,  treatment  of,  623 

Slugs  and  Auriculas,  16 ;  and  Sweet  Peas, 

Small  gardens,  deciduous  flowering  trees 
and  shrubs  for,  590,  591 ;  Evergreen 
flowering  shrubs  for,  591 ;  fifty  best 
Alpines  for,  140  ;  Rose  bushes  for,  573 

Small  town  garden,  history  of  a,  199 

Smilax  aspera,  595,  596 

Smoke  plant,  253 

Smoky  districts,  roses  for,  581 

Smoky  towns,  trees  not  to  plant  near,  592 

Snail,  water,  to  destroy,  174 

Snake's-head,  106,  595 

Snapdragons,  8,  148 ;  for  rock-gardens, 
148 ;  raising  from  seed,  9 

Snowball  Tree,  259 


INDEX 


647 


Snowberry,  257,  266,  591 ;  Variegated,  266 

Snowdrop,  89  ;  anemone,  5 

Snowflake,  36,  98,  no 

Snow,  Glory  of  the,  551,  595 

Snowy  Mespilus,  591 

Soap-wort,  554,  571 

Soda,  Nitrate  of,  495 

Soft  soap  wash  (see  Insecticides),  494 

Soil,  mulching  the,  621 ;  planting  a  steep 
sunny  bank  of  poor,  623  ;  preparation  of, 
86 ;  Roses  for  poor,  581 ;  sterilisation 
of,  384,  385;  treatment  of,  375-383 

Solarium,  varieties  of,  312-313  ;  S.  jasmin- 
oides,  277,  595  ;  S.  Wendlandi,  604 

Soldanella  pyrolaefolia,  157 

Solidago,  572 

Solomon's  Seal,  32,  315,  316,  570;  in  pots, 

Soot,  382,495 

Sophora  japonica,  256  ;  S.  viciifolia,  590 
Sophronitis  grandiflora,  329 
Spaeth's  Golden  Dogwood,  266 
Spanish  Broom,  256;  Iris,  109,  202 
Span  roof  conservatory,  the,  281-2  ;  mean- 
ing of  term,  517 
Spartium  junceum,  256 
Spawning,  meaning  of  term,  518 
Spearwort,  Great,  for  pond  sides,  593 
Species,  meaning  of  term,  518 
Spider,  Red,  492  ;  on  Roses,  79  ;  on  Vines, 

453 

Spiderwort,  196 
Spikes,  meaning  of  term,  518 
Spinach,  416,  614 
Spindle  Trees,  234,  591 
Spiraeas,    168,   256,   270,    315,   590,   592 ; 

pruning,  270 ;  S.  gigantea  and  palmata 

for  pond  sides,  593  ;  S.  grandiflora,  235  ; 

S.  japonica,  597 
Spit,  top,  meaning  of  term,  521 
Spleenworts,  340 
Sport,  meaning  of  term,  519 
Spot,  132  ;  black  on  Roses,  80 
Spraying,  625 
Spring  bedding,  bulbs  for,  61,  62  ;  plans 

for,  61,  62  ;  plants  for,  61 
Sprouts,  Brussels,  400,  401,  613 
Spurge  Laurel,  231 
Spurs,  meaning  of  term,  519 
Squills,  97,  116,  152,  596 
Staff  Vine,  272 
Stakes,  sticks  and,  529 
Staking  border  plants,  42 
Standard,  meaning  of  term,  519 
Standard  Roses,  81 
Staphyleas,  257 
Star  of  Bethlehem,  116,  596 
Star  Primula,  311 ;  Tulips,  99 
Starworts,  10,  556 
Statices    for    the    rock-garden,    147 ;    S. 

Suworowi,  548 

Stauntonia,  595  ;  S.  latifolia,  238 
Steep  sunny  bank  of  poor  soil,  planting  a, 

623 

Stephanotis  floribunda,  604 
Sterilisation  of  soil,  384-385 


Sternbergias,  117 ;  S.  lutea,  151 

Sticks  and  stakes,  529 

Stocks,  65  ;  East  Lothian,  33  ;  Giant  and 
Brompton,  34;  Intermediate,  597;  Night- 
scented,  40;  raising  from  seed,  32;  soil 
for,  33  ;  Ten-week,  32  ;  Virginian,  548 

Stocks  for  Fruit  Trees,  423,  426,  430,  481 ; 
for  Roses,  70  ;  meaning  of  term,  520 

Stonecrop,  572 

Stone  Pine,  594  ;  Swiss,  594 

Stork's-Bill,  552 

Stove  plants,  600 

Strawberry,  the,  455,  597 ;  pot  culture  of, 
458 ;  planting,  456  ;  propagation  of,  457; 
selection  of,  610 ;  soil  and  situation  for, 
455;  treatment  after  planting,  457; 
varieties  for  outdoor  culture,  461 ;  and 
for  pot  culture,  462 

Strawberry  Trees,  218 

Streptocarpus,  313 

Stuartias,  257 

Styrax  japonicum,  257 

Suburban  gardening,  191-203 

Suckers,  meaning  of  term,  520 

Sultans,  Sweet,  548 

Sumachs,  253;  Venetian,  253 

Summer  bedding,  60,  62,  plans  for,  62-65, 
plants  for,  63-65 

Summer  flowers  for  town  gardens,  198 

Sunflowers,  34;  annual,  varieties  of,  544; 

.    in  mixed  border,  40  ;  perennial,  34,  563 

Sun  Roses,  138,  237,  552,  592 

Swainsona  galegifolia  alba,  597 

Swamp  Laurel,  241 

Swedes,  418 

Sweet  Alyssum,  52;  Bay,  241;  Briar,  87; 
Briar  as  exposed  hedges,  620  ;  Buckeye, 
216;  Corn,  408;  Oak,  the,  250;  Rockets, 
31,  571;  Sultans,  548;  Verbena,  294; 
Violets  and  their  cultivation,  134-7; 
Williams,  34,  196 

Sweet  Peas,  54,  56,  544  ;  and  mice,  57  ; 
culture  of,  56 ;  for  exhibition,  58  ;  for 
gardens,  59  ;  planting  out,  57  ;  protecting 
from  frost,  57  ;  soil  for,  56  ;  sowing,  56  ; 
sticks  for  supporting,  58 

Sycamores,  214 

Symphoricarpus  orbiculatus  variegatus, 
266;  S.  racemosus,  257,  591,  592 

Synthiris  reniformis,  141 

Syrian  Mallow,  238 

Syringas,  257,  269,  590,  592 ;  pruning, 
269 

TABLES,  useful,  542-615 
Tacsonia  Van  Volxemii,  313 
Tagetes,  54,  548  ;  T.  signata,  63 
Tamarix,  258,  591 
Tansy-leaved  Thorn,  229 
Tassel  Flower,  150 

Taxus,  592,  594;  T.  baccata  Dovastoni 
aureapendula,  591;  T.  baccata  pendula, 

591 
Tea,  and  Hybrid  Tea  Roses,  73,  80,  576, 

580 
Tecoma  grandiflora,  258 


648 


GARDENING    FOR   BEGINNERS 


Tecophilaea  cyano-crocus,  596 

Telekia  speciosa,  559 

Tenby  Daffodil,  115 

Tennis-courts,  Lawn,  size  of,  189  ;  treat- 
ment in  winter  of,  189,  190 

Ten- week  Stock,  32 

Terms,  explanation  of  garden,  504-522 

Thalictrum,  572;  T.  adiantifolium,  597; 
T.  anemonoides,  554 

Thinning  annuals  for  the  rock-garden, 
149  ;  Dahlias,  101  ;  Grape  Vine,  447 ; 
Roses,  75 

Thistle,  Globe,  560 

Thlaspi  limosellaefolium,  157 

Thorn,  229,  591;  Cockspur,  229;  Ever- 
green Fire,  230;  Tansy-leaved,  229; 
Washington,  229 ;  Yellow-leaved,  265  ; 
treatment  of  seeds  of,  209 

Thrift,  prickly,  550 

Thrips,  367,  492;  Yellow,  133 

Thrum-eye,  meaning  of  term,  521 

Thuiopsis  borealis,  147,  593 

Thunbergia  alata,  549 

Thuyas,  varieties  of,  592,  594;  T.  dolobrata, 
592 

Thyme  (see  Herbs),  419,  615;  Lemon, 
419 

Thymus  coccineus,  165 ;  T.  lanuginosus, 
554 ;  T.  Serpyllum,  165 

Tiarella  cordifolia,  554,  572,  597 

Tiger  Flowers,  117 

Tile-edging,  63 

Tilia,  258 

Toadflax,  alpine,  150,  552 

Toads,  useful  in  garden,  493 

Tobacco,  545  ;  water,  494 

Tomatoes,  416,  614  ;  general  treatment  of, 
416  ;  house,  or  frame  culture  of,  417  ; 
outdoor  culture  of,  417 ;  setting  the 
flowers,  417 ;  sowing,  416  ;  varieties  of, 
418,  614  ;  winter  crop,  418 

Tom  Thumb  Nasturtium,  545 

Tongue  or  Whip  grafting,  426 

Tonk's  manure,  75 

Tools,  useful  garden,  618 

Top  spit,  meaning  of  term,  521 

Torenia  fournieri,  604 

Touch-me-not  (see  Balsam),  306 

Town  garden,  history  of  a  small,  199; 
absence  of  light,  and  tree  planting  in  a, 
194 ;  annuals  for  the,  197  ;  Aucubas  in 
the,  219 ;  bulbs  for  the,  197 ;  Climbers 
for  the,  198 ;  German  or  Flag  Iris  for 
the,  202  ;  Hardy  perennials  for  the,  196  ; 
soil  in  the,  195 ;  summer  flowers  for 
the,  198 ;  walls  in  the,  treatment  of, 

*93 

Town  gardening,  191-203 
Towns,  Orchids  as  plants  for,  320  ;  Roses 

for  open  spaces  near,  581 ;  Trees  not  to 

plant  near  smoky,  592 
Trailing  Alpines,  141  ;  Evergreen  Shrubs, 

260 

Traveller's  Joy,  273 
Tree  Carnations,  propagation  and  culture 

of,   130 ;    Ivy,  266,   592  ;  Lupine,  567  ; 


Mallow,  545;  of  Heaven,  216;  Paeony, 
21,  570;  Purslane,  266 
Trees,  beautiful,  204  ;  colours  of  bark  of, 
204  ;  deciduous,  265  ;  Dwarf,  for  rock- 
gardens,  146;  Evergreen,  for  sea-coast, 
591 ;  for  forcing,  592  ;  for  small  gardens, 
deciduous  flowering,  591 ;  for  town  gar- 
dens, 194-5  >  f°r  windy  places,  flowering, 
617;  how  to  arrange  ornamental,  264; 
not  to  plant  near  smoky  towns,  592  ;  old, 
care  of  616 ;  propagation  of,  by  seeds, 
cuttings,  budding,  grafting,  layering, 
and  root  cuttings,  205-212  ;  Roses  over 
old,  95  ;  selection  and  description  of  best, 
212-271  ;  shrubs  for  planting  under, 
592  ;  weeping,  591  ;  with  beautiful  fruit, 

S9i 

Trellis,  meaning  of  term,  521 
Trenching,     376-9,    388;     bastard,     67; 

meaning  of  term,  521 
Trichomanes,  varieties  of,  345 
Tricytus  hirta,  597 

Trillium,  140,  572;  T.  grandiflorum,  596 
Trinity-flower,  572 
Triteleia  uniflora,  117 
Tritoma,  566,  596 

Trollius  for  pond  sides,  573,  593,  597 
Tropaeolums,    313,    595 ;    T.    canariense, 

549  ;  T.  poly phyllum ,  573  ;  T.  speciosum, 

277.  573 

Trumpet-flower,  594 

Tuberose,  the,  313 

Tuberous  Begonias,  63,  64,  296 

Tubers  for  cold  greenhouse,  595  ;  meaning 
of  term,  522 

Tub-gardening,  530 

Tubs,  Water  Lilies  in,  175 

Tufted  Pansies,  23 

Tulipa,  158 

Tulips,  117-121,  596;  a  selection  of,  119; 
border  of,  arranged  for  colour  effect,  120  ; 
Californian,  98;  Cretan,  158  ;  design  for 
arrangement  of  beds  of  Hyacinths  and, 
6 1 ;  directions  for  growing,  118  ;  diseases 
of,  119  ;  for  borders,  120  ;  for  pot  culture, 
selection  of,  316,  317  ;  for  spring  bed- 
ding, 61,  62;  lifting,  119;  Parrot,  120; 
plan  of  bed  for,  120 ;  planting,  118 ; 
position  for,  118;  protection  of,  118; 
soil  for,  118  ;  Star,  99  ;  storing,  119  ; 
under  glass,  158 

Tulip  Tree,  243 

Tunica  Saxifraga,  141 

Turks'  Cap  Cactus,  the,  368 

Turkey  Beard,  574  ;  Oak,  249 

Turnips,  culture  of,  418,  614 

Tussilago,  573 

Tying  up,  625 

Tylenchus,  132 


ULEX,  258 

Ulmusantarcticaaurea,  266;  U.  Louis  Van 

Houtte,  266  ;  U.  montana  pendula,  591  ; 

U.  montana  variegata,  266 
United  States  Sage  Bush,  266 


INDEX 


649 


Uredo  dianthi,  132 
Useful  garden  tools,  618 
Useful  hints,  616 
Uvularia  amplexicaulis,  152 


VALERIAN,  red,  559 

Vallota  purpurea,  313,  596 

Vanda  caerulea,  329 

Van  Houtte's  Golden  Elm,  266 

Variegated   Aspidistra,    295 ;     Box,    266 ; 

Dogwood,  266  ;   Elaeganus,   266  ;   Elm, 

266 ;    Maple,  265 ;   Privet,  266 ;   Snow- 
berry,  266 ;  Sweetcorn,  268 
Vegetable  growing,  397-419;  613-5 
Vegetable  Marrows,  418,  615 
Vegetables,     dates    for     sowing,     613-5; 

seasons  of,  613-5 
Veltheimia  viridifolia,  596 
Venetian  Sumach,  253 
Ventilation  of  Cold  Greenhouse,  351  ;  of 

Orchid  House,  319 
Venus'  Looking-Glass,  548 
Verbascum,  573 
Verbenas,  35,  294,  313  ;  Lemon,  294,  295  ; 

raising    from    cuttings    and    seed,    35 ; 

sand, 148 
Veronicas,  165,  259,  313,  554,  573,  591 ;  for 

rock-gardens,    147 ;   shrubby,   595 ;    V. 

canescens,  157,  165;  V.  Hulkeana,  594; 

V.  rupestris,  141, 165  ;  V.  Traversii,  591 
Vetch,  the  Milk,  550 
Viburnums,  259,  595  ;  V.  opulus,  591 ;  V. 

tinus,   591 ;    V.    tomentosum  plicatum, 

590 

Vincas,  260,  592 

Vine,  the  Grape,  border  for,  437;  as 
garden  ornament,  479;  grafting,  451; 
in  open  air,  454  ;  insect  pests  on,  453 ; 
mildew  on,  453;  planting,  440;  propa- 
gation of,  451  ;  pruning,  449 ;  thinning 
bunches,  447  ;  treatment  after  planting, 
442  ;  varieties  of,  278  ;  watering,  450  ; 
Weevil,  Black,  49,  492 

Violas,  23  ;  for  edgings,  63,  64 ;  raising 
from  cuttings  and  seed,  23 ;  seasons  for 
planting,  24 ;  soil  for,  23  ;  treatment  of 
cuttings,  23 ;  treatment  of,  when  received, 
24  ;  V.  cenisia,  157 

Violet  Cress,  150 

Violet,  Dog's  Tooth,  97,  595 

Violets,  134-137 ;  best  varieties  for  the 
open,  137;  in  frames  for  winter,  136; 
outdoor  culture,  134  ;  position  of  beds 
for,  135  ;  raising  young  plants,  135 

Virginian  Cowslip,  97 ;  Creeper,  278 ; 
Stock,  548 

Virgin's  Bower,  273 

Viscarias,  53,  54-55.  548 

Vitis,  varieties  of,  278 


WAHLENBERGIA  Pumilio,  157 

Walks,   Lavender,  166;    Pinks  as  edging 

for,  27 
Wallace,  Mr.  (of  Colchester),  quoted,  no 


Wallflower,  Alpine,  551 ;    Common,  559, 

Wall  garden,  the,  160  ;  building  of,  161-3  ; 
in  winter,  162  ;  plants  for,  163 

Walnut,  the  Caucasian,  247 

Walls  for  Tea  and  Hybrid  Tea  Roses ,  8 1  ;  in 
the  kitchen  garden,  386,  387  ;  of  a  town 
garden,  193  ;  Pear  Trees  for,  433 ;  selec- 
tion of  plants  to  grow  on,  624  ;  sowing 
seeds  in  concrete,  625 

Wand  Plant,  561 

Wardian  cases,  Ferns  in,  336 

Washington  Thorn,  229 

Wasps'  nests,  to  destroy,  617 

Watercress,  414 

Water  Elder,  260  ;  Forget-me-not,  593 

Waterer,  Mr.  Anthony,  quoted,  251 

Water  gardens,  138  ;  value  of  Nymphaeas 
in, 170 

Watering,  626 

Water  Lilies,  168-178,  593 

Water  Lilies  in  tubs,  175 ;  best  varieties, 
177 ;  changing  the  water,  177 ;  soil  for, 
176 

Water  Sedge,  170 

Water-sides,  selection  of  plants  for,  593 

Water-snail,  to  destroy,  174 

Water-surface,  a  few  plants  for,  593 

Weeds  on  lawns,  to  destroy,  188 

Weeping   Roses,   73 ;    Trees  and  Shrubs, 

Weevil,  Apple  blossom,  492;   Bean,  398 ; 

Black  Vine,  491 ;  Nut,  491 ;  Pea,  491 
Weigela,  232,  590  ;    W.   hortensis  nivea, 

Welsh  Polypody,  340 

Western  Allspice,  224 

Wey mouth  Pine,  594 

Whin,  258 

White  Beam  Tree,  Nepaul,  249;  Birch, 
591;  Broom,  230;  Cup,  553;  Currants, 
467 ;  Currants,  selection  of,  612 ; 
Heather,  184;  Marguerites,  64;  Rocket, 
Double,  566 ;  Rocket,  French,  32 ; 
Wood  Lily,  572,  596 

Wild  and  Garden  flowers,  English  names 
for,  531 

Wild  Carnation,  122  ;  Guelder  Rose,  260, 
591;  Lent  Lily,  116;  Primrose,  29; 
Rose,  591 

Wilks,  Rev.  W.,  quoted,  28 

Willmott,  Miss,  mentioned,  35 

Willow,  591  ;  Cardinal  and  Yellow  for 
pond  sides,  593  ;  Golden,  591 

Willow  Herb,  551 ;  for  pond  sides,  593 

Wilson,  T.,  article  by,  179 

Windflowers,  3,  5,  157,  550  ;  for  green- 
house, 595  ;  Apennine,  5  ;  Japanese,  6  ; 
Wood,  6 

Window-boxes,  626  ;  Ivy-leaved  Pelargon- 
iums for,  309  ;  plants  for,  626 ;  Shrubs 
for,  592 

Windy  places,  flowering  Trees  and  Shrubs 
for,  617  ;  Rose  bushes  or  Short  Standards 
for,  575 

Wineberry,  Japanese,  255 


650 


GARDENING   FOR   BEGINNERS 


Wine  Nuts,  481 

Winter  Aconites,  97,  98  ;  bedding,  shrubs 
for,  592  ;  Berry,  Creeping,  236  ;  Cherry, 
570;  Daffodil,  117;  dry  walls  in,  162; 
Flag,  116 ;  flowering  Begonias,  297; 
flowering  Jasmine,  594;  flowers,  coops 
to  protect,  617;  Gladiolus,  596;  Heath, 
234  ;  Heliotrope,  573  ;  keeping  plants  in, 
203  ;  protection  for  outdoor  flowers,  625  ; 
Sweet,  226;  treatment  of  lawn-tennis 
courts  in,  189 ;  trees  and  shrubs  with 
conspicuous  bark  in,  591 
Wireworms,  131,  488;  destroying  Pinks, 

27 

Wisley  Gardens,  Water  Lilies  at,  169 
Wistarias,   271,    592 ;   pruning,   271 ;    W. 

chinensis  and  varieties,  278 
Witch  Hazel,  237 
Witloof,  405 

Woodall,  Mr.,  quoted,  191 
Wood  and  Garden  quoted,  19,  29 
Wood  Anemones  for  shady  places,  3 
Wood  frames,  626;  Lily  White,  572,  596  ; 
Windflower,  6 


Woodland,  planting  strip  of,  528 

Woodlice,  493 

Woodruff,  97 

Worm,  Eel,  132 

Worms  and  lawns,  188,  190 

XANTHOCERAS  sorbifolia,  260 
Xerophyllum  asphodeloides,  574 

YELLOW  and  Cardinal  Willows,  593 
Yellow  and  orange-flowered  annuals,  54 
Yellow  Broom,  230;    leaved  Thorn,  265; 

thrips,  133;  Willow,  593 
Yew,  591  ;  English,  594 
Yuccas,  260 ;  Y.  gloriosa,  591  ;  Y.  recurvi- 

folia,  591,  592 

ZEPHYRANTHES,  596 

Zinnias    for    summer    bedding,    63 ;     Z. 

haageana,  54 
Zonal  Pelargoniums,  64,  65  ;  as  an  edging, 

63  ;  for  summer  bedding,  63 
Zygopetalums,  329 


The  text  printed  by  BALLANTYNB,  HANSON  &  Co.,  Edinburgh. 
The  plates  printed  by  HUDSON  <&*  KEARNS,  LTD.,  London,  S.E. 


COUNTRY 


LIFE 


A    CATALOGUE 
OF    BOOKS 

Published  at 
the  Offices  of 

COUNTRY   LIFE 

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COUNTRY 

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GARDENS  FOR 

SMALL   COUNTRY 

HOUSES 

By  GERTRUDE  JEKYLL  and  LAWRENCE  WEAVER 

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reference  both  to  the  proportions  and  architectural  ele- 
ments which  govern  a  successful  plan,  and  to  right  and 
artistic  planting.  The  first  seven  chapters  describe  in 
detail  some  beautiful  gardens  of  varying  type  which 
illustrate  the  solving  of  different  problems.  Very  im- 
portant are  the  planting  plans  by  Miss  Jekyll,  whose 
reputation  as  a  deviser  of  colour  schemes  is  world- 
wide. In  other  chapters  the  treatment  of  various 
kinds  of  sites  is  discussed  in  detail,  with  scores  of 
plans  and  photographs  of  examples  by  well-known 
designers.  The  chief  architectural  features  of  gardens, 
such  as  pergolas,  pools  and  fountains,  walls,  steps  and 
paving,  garden  houses,  seats  and  sundials,  are  de- 
scribed with  a  lavish  series  of  illustrations.  Others 
deal  with  cultural  problems  such  as  the  planting  of 
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illustrations  are  of  a  beauty  and  educational  value 
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2 


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vary  from  large  cottages  costing  £600  to  dignified 
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arrangement  and  architectural  and  garden  treatment 
are  brought  under  review.  To  all  of  moderate  means 
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SMALL  COUNTRY 
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THE  growing  tendency  to  rescue  old  buildings  from 
neglect,  and  the  important  problems  which  are  raised 
by  such  work  are  dealt  with  in  a  thorough  and  practical 
manner  in  this  lavishly  illustrated  book.  Detailed 
descriptions  reveal  how  a  number  of  typical  houses  of 
bygone  days  have  been  re-equipped  to  meet  modern 
demands,  without  destroying  the  witness  they  bear  to 
the  old  traditions  of  building.  Incidentally  the  author 
has  shown  in  how  many  cases  the  records  of  modest 
little  houses  have  been  preserved  and  how  intimately 
their  local  story  is  woven  into  the  larger  fabric  of 
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IT  is  impossible  that  any  one  writer  can  deal  with  the  many  problems 
that  arise  out  of  the  artistic  and  practical  equipment  of  a  house,  at 
least  with  equal  knowledge  and  sympathy.  The  scheme  of  this 
volume,  with  its  forty-three  chapters  contributed  by  twenty-three 
experts  of  acknowledged  ability,  ensures  the  throwing  of  fresh  light 
on  scores  of  questions  that  concern  the  comfort  and  pleasure  of  every 
one  To  all  who  own  a  home,  and  are  not  wholly  satisfied  with  it, 
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anew,  this  volume  is  practically  indispensable. 

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Volumes  I,  II,  and  III 

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6 


GARDENS 
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Edited  by  H.   AVRAY  TIPPING,  M.A.,  F.S.A., 

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way  never  before  attempted.  They  afford  a  com- 
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the  contents.  The  gardens  that  it  so  lavishly  portrays,  charming  as 
they  are,  would  be  without  life  and  meaning,  except  as  settings  to 
the  priceless  old  English  halls,  manor-houses,  and  castles  that  are 
centred  in  each  well-chosen  view.  There  must  be  almost  a  thousand 
of  these  fascinating  pictures  in  this  one  volume,  and  all,  with  one 
exception,  hare  been  chosen  from  sixty-four  famous  places,  so  that 
one  does  not  merely  have  a  passing  glimpse  of  a  multitude  of 
widely  scattered  scenes,  but,  on  an  average,  fifteen  careful  outdoor 
studies  of  each  beautiful  house  and  its  surroundings." — Morning  Post. 

7 


A  Work  of  National  Importance 

WINDSOR  CASTLE 

AN  ARCHITECTURAL   HISTORY 

Collected  and  written  by  Command  of  Their  Majesties 
QUEEN   VICTORIA 
KING   EDWARD  VII   and 
KING  GEORGE   V 

BY  W.    H.    ST.    JOHN    HOPE,    Litt.D.,    D.C.L. 

Imperial  Quarto,  in  two  Volumes,  and  a  Portfolio 

Bound  in   Half  Sheepskin  £660   net 

„          Whole  Sheepskin  880,, 

„          Full  Morocco  10  10     0     „ 

WINDSOR  CASTLE  stands  alone  among  the  buildings  of  Great  Britain. 
It  is  the  greatest  among  our  early  fortresses  and  the  most  splendid  of 
Royal  Palaces.  It  includes  within  its  walls  a  rich  example  of  the  most 
typically  English  phase  of  Gothic  Architecture — St.  George's  Chapel, 
the  home  of  the  Knights  of  the  oldest  existing  order  of  Chivalry  in 
Christendom,  the  most  noble  Order  of  the  Garter.  The  story  of 
English  Building  during  eight  centuries  is  very  fully  written  in  the 
stones  of  Windsor,  but  not  so  that  everyone  may  read.  The  slow 
accretions  of  centuries  are  not  easy  to  disentangle,  and  it  needed  the 
skill  and  wide  archaeological  experience  of  Mr.  W.  H.  St.  John  Hope 
to  set  out  in  its  true  proportions  the  fascinating  story  of  the  growth 
of  this  great  architectural  organism. 

The  edition  is  strictly  limited  to  1050  numbered  copies,  of  which  over  400 
were  subscribed  before  publication.  In  no  circumstances  will  the  book  be 
reprinted.  It  has  been  printed  from  new  type  on  pure  rag  paper,  specially 
made  for  this  edition.  It  is  illustrated  by  exquisite  reproductions  in  colour  of 
drawings  by  Paul  Sandby  ;  by  a  large  number  of  collotype  plates  reproducing  a 
unique  collection  of  original  drawings,  engravings  and  photographs  which  show 
the  castle  at  every  stage  of  its  development ;  as  well  as  by  beautiful  woodcuts, 
prepared  expressly  by  the  great  engraver  Orlando  Jewitt  for  this  History,  when 
it  was  first  projected.  Many  of  the  illustrations  are  reproduced  for  the  first 
time,  by  special  permission  of  His  Majesty  the  King,  from  originals  in  the  Royal 
Library  at  Windsor. 

The  portfolio  contains  a  notable  reproduction  of  Norden's  View  of  Windsor 
and  a  complete  series  of  plans,  specially  printed  in  fourteen  colours,  which  show 
the  dates  of  all  the  buildings  in  the  Castle  and  their  successive  changes. 

8 


HOUSES  AND 
GARDENS  BY 
E.  L.  LUTYENS 

Described  and  criticised  by 
LAWRENCE  WEAVER 

Large  crown  folio  06   x  ft),  bound  in  quarter  buckram, 

giltt  containing  nearly  400  pages  and  600  magnificent 

illustrations 

25s  net 

Inland  postage,  lod  extra 


THE  large  interest  taken  in  the  work  of  Mr.  E.  L. 
Lutyens,  A.R.A.,  has  prompted  the  publication  of  a 
full  record  of  his  contributions  to  English  Domestic 
Architecture  during  the  last  twenty  years.  The  book 
is  lavishly  illustrated  with  photographs  of  about 
eighty  of  his  most  typical  houses  and  gardens,  many 
of  which  have  never  previously  been  published.  The 
subjects  are  accompanied  by  descriptions  and  critical 
appreciations,  and  in  all  respects  the  book  is  the  most 
important  and  interesting  monograph  on  the  work 
of  an  architect  yet  published. 


PASTIME    WITH 
GOOD    COMPANY 

PICTURE  D     BY 
G.  D.  ARMOUR 

With  an  Introduction  by 
HORACE   G.    HUTCHINSON 

Royal  quarto,  tastefully  bound,  containing  over  fifty 
choice  plates  thoroughly  typical  of  Mr.  Armour  's  art 

15s  net,  postage  6d  extra 


THIS  volume  is  sure  of  a  warm  welcome  from  every 
Sportsman  and  Sportswoman  of  to-day.  In  the 
beautiful  picture  gallery  disclosed  through  its  pages, 
Mr.  Armour  presents  a  wonderfully  representative 
collection  of  his  art.  Whether  it  is  the  field  in  "full 
cry,*  the  grouse  coming  over  the  heather,  the  polo 
player  dashing  towards  the  goal,  or  the  otter  hound 
surging  through  the  rapids  ;  all  are  portrayed  with 
individuality  and  fidelity,  by  means  which  have  the 
appealing  merit  of  simplicity  and  directness.  The 
plates  are  perfect  specimens  of  pictorial  art.  Each 
one  deserves  and,  indeed,  demands  a  frame. 


10 


OUR    COMMON 
SEA-BIRDS 

CORMORANTS,  TERNS,  GULLS,  SKUAS,  PETRELS,  AND  AUKS 

By  PERCY  R.  LOWE,  B.A.,  M.B.,  B.C. 

With  Chapters  by  BENTLEY  BEETHAM,  FRANCIS  HEATHERLEY,  F.R.C.S., 
W.  R.  OGILVIE-GRANT,  OLIVER  G.  PIKE,  W.  P.  PYCRAFT,  A.  J.  ROBERTS,  etc. 

Large  quarto,  cloth,  gilt,  over  300  pages,  and  nearly  250  illustrations 

15s  net,  inland  postage  yd  extra 


UNLIKE  the  majority  of  books  dealing  with  birds,  this 
volume  is  of  interest  to  the  general  reader  and  to  the 
student  of  ornithology  alike.  It  is  a  book  that  enables 
the  reader  to  identify  our  sea-birds  by  name,  to  under- 
stand their  movements,  their  habits,  their  nests,  and 
their  eggs. 

Dr.  Lowe,  during  many  yachting  trips  round  the 
British  Islands,  in  the  Mediterranean,  and  across  the 
Atlantic,  has  had  exceptional  opportunities  of  studying 
the  habits  and  life  histories  of  our  sea-birds,  and  this 
book,  in  addition  to  embodying  much  valuable  infor- 
mation from  the  latest  records,  contains  a  large  number 
of  new  facts  and  original  theories  of  intense  interest 
to  all.  The  Introductory  pages  and  the  chapters  on 
the  Flight  of  Birds  deserve  the  closest  attention. 

The  Illustrations  are  of  extraordinary  merit  and 
beauty.  They  exhibit  in  a  marked  degree  the  result 
not  only  of  the  skill,  knowledge,  and  ingenuity  of  the 
photographers,  but  of  their  high  enthusiasm  and 
unwearying  patience. 

ii 


THE 

PEREGRINE     FALCON 
AT    THE    EYRIE 

By  FRANCIS  HEATHERLEY,  F.R.C.S. 


Illustrated  throughout  'with 
photographs  By  the  Author  and  C.  J.  King 

Demy  quarto,  cloth,  gilt.     5s   net,  inland  postage  $d  extra 


THIS  fascinating  book  on  the  Peregrine  Falcon  —  the 
grandest  bird  of  prey  left  in  England  —  combines  the 
salient  facts  of  almost  innumerable  field  notes,  written 
at  the  eyrie  itself.  It  is  a  book  that  should  appeal 
with  irresistible  force  to  all  true  nature  lovers.  Many 
striking  and  unexpected  facts  were  revealed  to  the 
author  as  a  result  of  unwearying  patience  in  a  dimi- 
nutive hut  slung  from  the  precipice  of  a  lonely  islet. 
These  records  are  now  set  forth  in  a  wonderful 
narrative  which  discloses  the  life  history  of  the  Pere- 
grine Falcon  from  the  moment  of  its  hatching  to  the 
day  it  finally  leaves  the  eyrie. 

"No  one  who  wishes  to  know  the  most  that  has  been  learned 
about  the  Peregrine  Falcon  can  afford  to  neglect  this  work.  The 
book  reflects  a  high  credit  upon  its  writer's  powers,  patience,  skill, 
and  well-directed  zeal  in  observation,  and  will  be  prized  by  everyone 
who  wishes  to  know  how  wild  birds  live."  —  The  Times. 

12 


THE  'COUNTRY  LIFE" 
LIBRARY  OF  SPORT 

Edited  by  HORACE  G.  HUTCHINSON 
Price  12s  6d  net  each  volume,  by  post  6^  extra 

A  series  devoted  to  Sport  and  Pastime ;  each  branch  being  dealt 

with  by  the  most  qualified  experts  on  the  subjects  which  they  have 

made  peculiarly  their  own. 

CRICKET 

With  over  80  Illustrations  taken  from  the  most  interesting  of 
the  old  cricketing  prints.  One  volume. 

FISHING 

With  Coloured  Plates  of  Salmon  and  Trout  Flies.  Over  250 
full-page  Illustrations  and  numerous  diagrams.  In  two  volumes. 

SHOOTING 

The  breeding,  rearing,  and  shooting  of  pheasants,  partridges, 
and  wild  duck.  In  two  volumes. 

BIG  GAME  SHOOTING 

With  over  200  Illustrations  from  photographs  showing  animals 
in  their  actual  habitat  and  natural  environment.  In  two  volumes. 

POLO,  PAST  AND  PRESENT 

The  game  is  traced  from  its  cradle  in  Persia,  many  centuries 
back,  up  to  the  present  time.  Profusely  Illustrated.  In  one 
volume. 

"Mr.    Hutchinson    and   his   colleagues   have   done    their   work 
thoroughly."—  The  Globe, 


GOLF  GREENS  AND  GREEN 
KEEPING 

By  HORACE  G.  HUTCHINSON 
Cheap  Edition  5s  net,  by  post  55-  $d 

11  The  practical  worth  of  the  volume  is  nearly  equal  to  the  com- 
bined worth  of  all  the  books  that  have  been  written  on  the  theory 
and  practice  of  golf." —  Yorkshire  Post. 

13 


THE  CENTURY  BOOK  OF  GARDENING 

Edited  by  E.  T.  COOK.  A  Comprehensive  Work  for  every 
Lover  of  the  Garden.  624  pages,  with  about  600  illustrations, 
many  of  them  full-page  4to  (12  in.  by  8J  in.).  2is  net,  by 
post  2  is  iod. 

WALL  AND  WATER  GARDENS 

With  chapters  on  the  Rock  Garden,  the  Heath  Garden,  and  the 
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larged. Over  200  Illustrations,  plans  and  diagrams.  I2S  6d 
net,  by  post  i2s  nd. 

COLOUR  SCHEMES  FOR  THE 
FLOWER  GARDEN 

By  GERTRUDE  JEKYLL.  Third  Edition.  Revised  and  enlarged. 
Over  100  Illustrations,  Planting  Plans,  etc.  i2s  6d  net,  by 

pOSt  I2S 


LILIES  FOR  ENGLISH  GARDENS 

By  GERTRUDE  JEKYLL.     Ss  6d  net,  by  post  8s  iod. 

CHILDREN  AND  GARDENS 

By  GERTRUDE  JEKYLL.  Lavishly  Illustrated.  6.T  net,  by  post  6s  5  d. 

THE    FRUIT   GARDEN 

By  GEORGE  BUNYARD  and  OWEN  THOMAS.     507  pages.     Size 
10  \  in.  by  yj.     i2s  6</net,  by  post  135. 

THE   UNHEATED  GREENHOUSE 

By  Mrs.  K.  L.  DAVIDSON.     $s  net,  by  post  5$  4^. 

THE  ENGLISH  VEGETABLE  GARDEN 

By  various  experts.     $s  net,  by  post  5*  6d. 

TREES  AND   SHRUBS  FOR  ENGLISH 
GARDENS 

By  E.  T.  COOK,     izs  6d  net,  by  post  I2S  nd. 

MY  GARDEN 

By  EDEN  PHILLPOTTS.     207  pages.      60  full-page  illustrations. 
6s  net,  by  post  6s  $d. 

14 


A   GARDEN   IN  VENICE 

By  F.  EDEN.  An  account  of  the  author's  beautiful  garden  on 
the  Island  of  the  Guidecca  at  Venice.  With  2 1  Collotype  and 
50  other  Illustrations.  Parchment,  limp.  los  6d  net,  by 
post  i os  lod. 

THE   DISEASES   OF  TREES 

By  Professor  R.  HARTIG.  Royal  8vo.  IQS  6d  net,  by  post 
IQS  i  id. 

ROCK  AND  WATER  GARDENS 

THEIR  MAKING  AND  PLANTING 

With  Chapters  on  Wall  and  Heath  Gardens.  By  F.  H.  MEYER. 
6s  net,  by  post  6s  4^. 

THE   BOOK  OF   BRITISH    FERNS 

By  CHAS.  T.  DRUERY,  F.L.S.,  V.M.H.,  President  of  the  British 
Pteridological  Society.  3^  6d  net,  by  post  35  qd. 

THE    HARDY   FLOWER    BOOK 

By  E.  H.  JENKINS.  A  complete  and  trustworthy  guide  to  all 
who  are  desirous  of  adding  to  their  knowledge  of  the  best 
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THE   SMALL   ROCK  GARDEN 

By  E.  H.  JENKINS.  A  practical  guide  to  all  who  are  interested 
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GARDENING   MADE   EASY 

By  E.  T.  COOK.  200  pages  and  23  illustrations.  The  A.B.C. 
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ROSE   GROWING  MADE   EASY 

By  E.  T.  COOK.  A  simple  Rose  Guide  for  amateurs,  freely  illus- 
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protecting  roses,  is  net ;  cloth,  i s  6d  net,  by  post  $d  extra. 

15 


VEGETABLE  GROWING  MADE  EASY 

A  simple  and  concise  handbook  on  the  cultivation  of  Vegetables. 
By  OWEN  THOMAS  and  GEORGE  WYTHES,  F.R.H.S.,  V.M.H., 
and  THE  COOKING  OF  VEGETABLES  by  Mrs.  FRANCES 
KEYZER.  is  net ;  cloth,  is  6d  net,  by  post  $d  extra. 

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SEASIDE  PLANTING  OF  TREES  AND 
SHRUBS 

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upon.  55  net,  by  post  $s  ^d. 

POEMS 

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ANIMAL  LIFE  BY  THE  SEA-SHORE 

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C.  L.  BOULENGER,  M.A.,  D.Sc.,  F.Z.S.  A  simple  and  concise 
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THE  FIRST  AND  CHIEF  GROUNDES 
OF  ARCHITECTURE. 

By  JOHN  SHUTE,  1563.  A  facsimile  edition  of  the  first  book  on 
Architecture  published  in  England,  with  an  Introduction  by 
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CAUSERIES  ON  ENGLISH  PEWTER 

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ECONOMIES   IN  DAIRY   FARMING 

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PHOTOGRAPHY  FOR  BEGINNERS 

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FRENCH    HOUSEHOLD  COOKING 

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16 


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