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ustrafed. 


for Town 6 Country 


A Weekly Journal for Amateurs and Gardeners. 

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FOUNDED BY W. ROBINSON, 

Author oj “ The English Flower Garden” “The Wild Oaitlni” “ Hard;/ Flower*," “Alpine Flower <t<\ 
Founder of “ The Garden ’* and “ Farm and Home." 


“ YOr BKK, 8WKKT MAID, WK MARRY 
A OKXTLK MCI OX TO TIIK WILDEST STOCK ; 

AND 1IAKK COXCKIVK A BARK OK BASER KIND 
BY BCD OK NOBLER RA.TK : THIS 1M AN ART 
WHICH DOES MKND NATURE—CIIANOK IT RATIIKRBI T 
tiik art itselk im XATi RK.”—»S haketpearr. 

“CALL TIIK VALK8 AND BID Til KM 1IITIIKR CAST 
Til KIR IIKLL8 AND KLOVVKRKTrt OK A T1I0I8AND lll’KS.”- -Milton. 


"VOL. XXIX., FEBRUARY 29, 1908. 



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UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
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INDEX TO VOL. XXIX. 

Comprising Numbers from March 2nd, 1907, to February 29th, 1908 


ILLUSTRATIONS IN ITALK'S. 


ABELIA cliinen&fs, 483 
florihunria, 4K3 
serrata. 483 
'pathulata. 4S.3 
triflora , .310, 48:t 
A be lias, 48.3 

Abuti'lon vitifoliuxn, 235 
Acacias, 148 

Acacia, tlic False, as a town tree, 
425 

Aegean micropliylla, 5 
Acanthus Candelabrum, 525 
Caroli-Alexandri, 525 
hi-panicus, 525 
Ion gi foil us. 525 
lusitanicus, 525 
mollis, 525; m. latifolius, 525 
niger, 525 
spinosis-!*icons, 525 
*pino&us, 520 
Achillea The Pearl, 334 
Achlmenes. 251 
>hoots, corn** on, 538 
Acis. aiitumnalis, 514 
Aconite, the Winter, 48, 673 
Acrocliniums, 33 
Act era palmata, 395 
Actinidia chim‘u.*»is, 616 
arguta, 503 

Ad< nophora Potanins, -449 
Adiuntum tethiopicum a-Hsimile, 522 
amabile, 522 
concinnum, 522 
cuneatum in large pots, 471 
lunulutuni, 522 

maerophyllum a 1 bo-striatum, 433 
pedatuni, 322, 522 
Adiantums, repotting, 646 
Adonis, 14G 
amurensis, 48, 146 
pyrenaica., 346 
cernalu, 146 

.Eeculus californica, 459 
flava, 459 

hippocastanuni, 450 ; fl.-pl., 459 
indica, 348 

parviflora, 411, 450; group of, 4a9 
Pavia, 459 
rubicunda. 459 

Alkali caustic solution, using. 304, 640 
Albmanda grandiflorn, 223 
Henderson I, 22.3 
neriifolia, 223 
violaeea, 223 
Allamandas. 223 
Allotment, croppiiifg* 10 
ground, improving, 614 
Almand-blotMom, « upray of. 4,, 
Almond-tree, fruiting, 4S8, »00 
the, 477 . . 

A Ion so a ineisifolia, 148: ns n basket- 
plant, 251 _ 

W.irscewiczi, 437 
Aloyeia citriodora. 620 
AUtrcemerias, 661 
from seed, 400 
Asapanthus for tub, 400 
umbellatus. 410, 528: u. Mooream 
419. 471 

Agapetes speciosa, 6 .jo 


Amaryllis Kischeriaua, 33, 59 Apple-trees, 

flowers, green. lOl 420 

the, culture of, 6^6 canker in, 

treatment of, 74 caterpillni 

Amaryllises, growing, OJU cracking, 

unhealthy, 118 . * grafting, 

Amateur's hotbed, the. wo grubs inju 

American blight, S88, 594 in bad co 

America, the Sw eet I ea in, .1. in bad he* 

Ampelopsis Lowi, 616 leaves of. 

propagating, 532 , not fruitu 

Veitchi. 118; dying, 348, for new standard, 

buildings. 126 the ermin 

Anohiifa italica (Oropmoro m .1i, 256 unhealthy 

Anemone (Hepatica) angulo.a, m I with gard 

hlanda. 202 ... Apricot bra 

ooronaria seedlings- >•” , growing a 

Pulutilla, 5 Muach-Ml: 

Aoemones, 61, 553 I planting i 

p™“ 179; from Ireland, H7 ' railhlg! 24 

Jack in the Green ;' CO | on'we5 V 

Aapelonio grondi/tdra olbn. an, too thick, 

.alicariarfblia, ,„ r S7Sl I AfcuiieKi»f> 

Aw,arum S 


Annuals, 139 
as bedding plants, 474 
at Heading, 360 
climbing, 73 
for cutting, 676 
for succession, 140 
for tiie greenhouse, 50 
garden, .'182 

hardy, 73; 698 a 

select, for herbaceous border, 659 
sowing, 691; 704 
Anthericum plumostim, 110 
Anthuriums, growing, 508 
repotting, 238 
Antirrhinums, 298 
Ants, a plague of, 158, 302 
on Peach-t rees, 80 
Aphides on Brussels Sprouts, 72 
on Peach-trees, 274 
on Plum-tree, 242, 264 
Aphis, woolly, on Auriculas, 531 
Apiary, the, 666 
the gnrden, 627 

Apple Ann Elizabeth, origin of, 173 
Annie Elizabeth, 42, 1U4: origin of, 

134 

April Queen, 681 
Beauty of Kent, 37 
Blenheim Ornnge, 604 
blossom, colour in. 3R0 
blossom weevil, 154 
Coronation, 501 
crop, partiality of the. 467 
French Crab. 10 
Grenadier, 530 
Mabbot's Pearmain, 575 
Miller's Seedling, 530, 548 
Newton Wonder, 548 
Sorfolk Beauty, 534 
shoots cankered, 340; diseased, 248 
Striped Beefing, 91, 134 
the American Crab, 229 
the double-flowered American Crab, 
229 

twigs failing, 194 
Warner's King, 410, 003 
Winter Quarrenden, 491 
Apples and Pears scabbed, 558; to 
name, 428 

as cordons v. bushes, 016 
baking, 600 
cracking, 506 
dessert, to plant, 491 
failing, 450 

falling prematurely, 692 

for espaliers, 05 

for sunny wall, 270 

good English, scarcity of. 702 

maggot in, 410 

own rooted, 220 

scarcity of, 387 

Apple-tree, American blight on, 187, 
544 

bark, insects on. 88 
cankered, 08 
grubs at roots of, 368 
in bad health, 220 
leaves diseased, 388; fungus on, 280 
planted two years, very few crossing 
branchletn removed since planting, 
068 

pruning. 40 
unhealthy, 14, 20 

Apple-trees, American blight on, 292. 
420 

canker in, 532 
caterpillars injuring, 187 
cracking, 62S 
grafting, 154 
grubs injuring, 127 
in bad condition, 10 
in bad health, 270 
leaves of. unhealthy, 308 
not fruiting, 270 
standard, pruning, 008 
the ermine-moth on, 241 
unhealthy, 270 

with gurden shears, pruning, 518 
Apricot brandies dying. 154 
growing an, 450 
Musch-Muadi, 340 
planting the, 643 
Apricots, 173 
failing. 245 

in pots. 359 « | n»J 

on west wall. 27o * I j 

too thick, 206 * 

Atpiilegias. 203 
vAliWilrgia Skinncri, 214 


Arabia albida graruliflora superba, 555 
Aralia chincnsis, 379 
Sieboldi, 152; leaves dropping, 212 
Aralias, 390 

Arbutus, increasing the, 260 
Unedo, 628 

Arches in the garden, 421 
Aretotis regalis, 055 
A rye move hispida, 61 
Aristolodiia Siplio, 421; arbour formed 
of, 421 

Arnebia echioides, 182 
Arnica montana, 215 
Arrangements, seasonable floral, 7 
Arrow-head, 31 
Artemisia lactiflora. 409 
Artichokes, Globe, 51; mildewed, 428 
Jerusalem, 24, 510, 678 
Artichoke, the Chinese, 040 
tiie Jerusalem, 482 
Arum Lilies, 88. 104; lifting, 858 
Arum Lily failing, 680 
Little Gem, 88 
sanctum, 614 

Asclepias curassavica. 395 
Ash, a picturesque Weeping, in the 
gardens at Xarroicater House, Co. 
Down, 589 
the flowering, 342 

Asparagus-bed, an old, 580: failing, 
234 : weak, 397; weedy. 602 
beds in winter, 519 
beetle, 368 
doing badly, 204 
failing, 24 
forcing, 053 
planting, 92 

plumosies, 08; failing, 522 
quarters, 66 
roots, fungus on, 180 
Sprengeri, 288, 405, 471 
Asphodels, the Giant, 022 
Aspidistra failing, 182 
flowering, G3 
in bad condition, 231 
Aspidistras failing, 572 
Asplenium Ruta-muraria, 209 
Trichomanes, 294 
Akfer, Ostrich Plume. 433 
Asters, a parasite on, 413 
failing. 180 
late, 4H8 
perennial, 486 
tall, branching kinds, 528 
Atamasco Lily, tiie. 349 
Aubrictia, 165 
Aubrietias, 675 
increasing, 144 
propagating, 33 
Aucuba diseased, 210 
japonica, 169 
Aucuhas, 573 
Auricula flowers, 172 
Aurbulas, 190 

and Primroses, propagating, 218 
border, 353 
from seed, raising, 34 
seedling, 172: flowering, 634 
show and alpine, 131 
Autumn in the Isle of Wight, 514 
tints, 509 

A veils, Leonard's, 437 
Aviary, tiie outdoor, 613 
Azalea Deutsche I'erle, 148 
indica, 634: after flowering, 182 
mollis, 158; after blooming. 94, 231; 
from seed, 440; grown in pots, 294; 
increasing. 120. 210; in pots, 172 
Mrs. Turner, 75 
narcissi flora, 700 
Azaleas, 510 

after blooming. 172, 380 
dropping their leaves, 144 
grafting. 251 


hardy, 55 
imported, 418 
Indian. 75. 638; 

of, 164 
thrips on, 68 


summer treatment 


i l 2:54,(* A i£ AMs : 


for flowering in autumn. 


in autumn, 349 


Barberry, tiie erect evergreen, 151 
Basie slag and nitrate of soda, fin 
Baskets, plants for, os 
Bay-trees in poor condition, 271 
in tubs, 572 
watering, 94 

Beam, White, tiie Nepaul, 617 
Bean, an early, Longpod, 424 
French, Ever-bearing, 424 
Runner Prizewinner, 030 
Beans, Broad, 200; autumn sown, 51 
Dwarf Kidney, 342 
early forced French, 583 
French, 183; growing in frames, 108 
Kidney, 374 

Runner, 204, 317, 373, 401: forward¬ 
ing, 208 
stringless, 470 

three good dwarf French, 030 
three good Long-j>od, 030 
Bear's Breech, 525 
Beds, varying tiie surface of, 487 
Beech, a group of, 125 
blight, the, 224, 688 
Coccus, the Felted, 420 
Copper, grubs on, 341 
our native, 125 
Bee-feeding, syrup for, 399 
Bee-flowers, 357 

Bec-s, building comb in row of Peas, 
259 

foul brood in, 244 

from old hive, removing. 79 

in old hives, 281 

loss of, 427 

to frame-hive, transferring, 244 
to new hive, removing, 12 
transferring from skep to frame- 
hive, 40 

useful hints, 117, 28V 
Beet, Perpetual or Spinach, 78, 030 
Beetle, tiie dor, 202 
i Beetroot. 128 
I Beets, 155 
j Begonia eoccinea, 390 
Corbeille de Fell, 57 k 
G ioire de Lorraine, 88, 831: flowers 
of, dropping, 652: increasing, Su2. 
052 

metallica, 20, 431 
Miss Clibran, 055 
Moonlight, 592 
R*-\, in the winter, 466 
tubers, dividing, 71; grubs injuring, 
10 

Begonias, bedding, preparing, 94 
dropping their flowers, 372, 633 
for the flower-garden, 80, 100 
from seed, 507 
growing, 406 
out-of-doors, 220 
treatment of. 344 
tuberous. 88, 94; growing, 245 
unhealthy. 080 

Bellflower, tiie Chimney, 405: in fhc 
Botanic Gardens, Glasnerin, 405 
i Berberis Aquifolium fnseicularis, 151 
Darwini. 185 
faseieul.iris, 323 
nepalensi*. 341 
H’ibonce, 520, 610 
Bibia Marci, 187 

I Bieton, Devon, Magnolias, at, 1 
1 Biennials, some good, 506 
I Big bud, the cure for, 65 

Birch, the, in the pleasure ground, 
341, 411 

' Bird dying, 356, 565 

troubled with insect pests. 53 
Birds and fruit-buds, 638, 642, 60 K 
and fruit-growers, 72. 104 
and Walnuts, 599 
dying, 493 
fruit picked by, 92 
the care of moulting. 343 
Bisulphide of carbon, using, 680 
Black Currant gall-mite, 371 
Blanching, 470 
Blechnum Occident ale, 7 
Blossom prospects. 42 
Bombyx neustria. 08 
B<xik on Roses, 541 
Books on Orchids, 344 
Books— 

" Beautiful Gardena,” 244 
“ Flower Decoration in tiie House,” 


"“"T* "‘ r ""I ! ■■ FV-WfrJof ihf «4 


URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



iv 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Books (continued)— 

" Gardening in Town and Suburb,” 
571 

" My Rock Garden,” 557 
” Our Gardens,” 273 
” Plantons des Arbres,” 585 
“ Report on Injurious Insect*,” 505 
" The Art of Landscape Gardening,” 
000 

” The Modern Carnation and How 
to Grow and Show It,” 39 
” The Unlieated Greenhouse,” 287 
Bordeau mixture, 155, 544 
Border, a herbaceous, planting, 474 
and tree* at St. John'* College, Ox- 
lord, 393 

herbaceous, 452, 5*27; planting a, 580 
making a herbaceous, 074 
mixed, of hardy plant* at St. Ann'*, 
Clontarf, Dublin, 525 
plants, 328: for, 08, 479 
preparing a herbaceous, 320 
treatment of, 381 
unsatisfactory, 172 
Borders, are mixed satisfactory? 609 
mixed near trees, 393 
sheltered, 527 
sloping, 297 

Westmoreland on St. Martin's Day, 
527 

Boronia megastigma, increasing. 131 
Bouvardias in the greenhouse, 402 
Bougainvillea failing, 131 
Iiowkeria Gerardiana, 379 
lira Mica family, the, 684 
Bramble, n new fruiting. 104 
the Rocky Mountain, 288 
Brier Lady Penzance, pruning, 94 
Penzance with black spot, 372 
Briers from seed, raising, 470 
seedling, for budding, 620 
Brimstone for dressing small seeds, 
180 

Broccoli failing, G92 
late, 204; on borders, 258; on north 
borders, 228 

Purple Sprouting, 97. 184 
spring, 128 

too many sorts of, 284 
Brussels Sprout Dw arf -Gem, 482 
Brussels Sprouts, 429 
aphides oil, 72 
caterpillars on, 564 
clubbing, 650 
early, 24 

Broom, increasing, 277 
the Spanish, 324, 348 
Browullia Jumesoni, 74, 627 
speciosa major, 53 
Buckthorn, Perrier’s, 152 
Buddleia globosa, 380; pruning, 315 
variabilis, 380 
Bud-dropping, 13 
Bugbane, Falte, 395 
Bulbs, 182 

after flowering, 94, 680 
depth at which to plant, 131 
flowering for Christmas, 390, 431 
for garden, 461 
for pots, 80 

for succession, potting, 278 
in hanging-baskets, 406 
in the Grass, overdoing, 81 
lifting, 206 

planted in borders, treatment of, 122 
spring flowering, 307 
treatment of, 144, 486 
Bullfinch, food for, 557 
Bush Honeysuckles, 277 


CABBAGE for spring. 454, 
Improved Nonpareil, 482 
insects on, 344 
leaves, brown spots on, 17*2 
notes on, 272 
Red Pickling. 494 
root, club, 374 
spring, planting, 476, 515 
Cabbages, 597 
autumn and spring, 228 
bolting, 128. 207, 234, 258 


Camellias, 634 

and Rhododendrons, grufting, OCG 
diseased, 80 
dropping their buds, 68 
in a cold-house, 118 
in the open air, 94; in Ireland. 451 
losing their buds, 538 
outdoors, planting. 26 
Campanula earpatica, 499 
hederacea, 499 
isopliyIIa, 499: i. alba, 406 
macrantha alba, 460 
muralis, 499; in. bavarica. 255 
planiflorii, 422 
pulla, 499 
punctata, 595 

pusilla, 332, 499; p. alba, 372 
pyramidalia, 405; in the Botanic 
Garden*, Glasnevin, 405 
serpyllifolia, 567 
Waldsteiniana, 499 
Campanulas, 122, 256, 499, 514 
Camphor Laurel, the. .'>6 
Canaries dying, 691 
Canary, deatli of, 117, 371, 479 
iu bad health, 427 
losing its voice, 53 
red mites ou, 557 
with fits, 531; scaly legs. 40 
Candle-plant, the. 192 
Canker in Apple-trees, 628 
in Melons, 220 
Canna Duchess of York, 265 
Mine. Louis Vorax, 655 
seedlings, treatment of, 144 
Cannas flowering, 265 
Canterbury Bells, 107 
Cape Cowslips, growing, 50 
Cape Silver-tree. the. 324 
Carnation A. Alegatiere, 4 
Andalusia, 4 
and Picotee, 541 
beds, wireworm in, 586 
Cecilia, 334, 395 
Countess of Warwick, 4 
C. R. Dana, 4 
Deutsche Bruant, 4 
Duchess of Portland. 4 
Duchess of Westminster, 553 
Duke of York, 4 
G. H. Crane, 4 
Irma, 4 
La Belle, 4 
La Neige, 4 
layers, making, 408 
Lucifer, 4 
M arm ion, 646 
Miss J oil lie, 4 
Miss Mary Godfrey, 4 
Mile. Carle. 4 
Mr*. Burnett, 510, 655 
Mrs. Leopold de Rothschild, 4 
Mrs. 8. J. Brooks, 4, 620 
Reginald Godfrey, 4 
spot, the, 44 
Uriah Pike, -1 
Wintor, 498, G33 
Winter Beauty, 4 
Winter Cheer, 4 
Wm. Robinson. 4 
Yaller Gal, 529 

Carnations, American Tree, G7J 
American winter-flowering, 383 
and Pieotees, 819 
and Pinks for vases, 313 
and Roses, greenhouse for, 413 
border, 17, 353 

cut flower* of, in a rate, 313 

diseased, 311, 328 

dying. 182 

exhibiting, 471 

failing, 172, 328 

for forcing, 440 

Malm a is on. 331, 382, 531; in the 
open, 354 
Marguerite, 531 
spot in, 245 
the older Tree, 4 

Tree or bonier, 474; part of a group 
of, at Shreicsburg Show, 471 
winter-flowering. 136 
wireworm iu. 828 

Carpenterin californica, 695; in a 
Herefordshire garden, 695; on n 
wall in Mr. Chamber's garden at 


clubbing, 480 

Carrot, a good frame. 234 

Evelyn Archer, 16 

early spring, 78 

blood-red, 030 

Exmouth Yellow. 484 

for spring cutting, 542 

maggot, the, 274 

Felton’s Favourite, 498. 550 

hybrid, 597 

Carrots cracking, 628 

Filberta, 4s4 

Turnips, etc., black-rot of, 446 

failing, 78 

flowers deformed, 572 

why do they holt? 159 

grubs in, 614 

Foxhunter, 562, 606 

Caraiia nrticulata. 192 

July-sown. 233 

Freda Bedford, 550, 606 

Caladium Thomas Tomlinson, 655 

young winter, 396 

Fred Direk, 16 

Calnnthe igneo-oculata gigantea, 113 

Cassinia fulvida, 95 

F. S. Vallis show ing an eye, 12 

jnponica alba, 591 

Catalpa bignonioides, 379 

F. W. Lever, 484 

Calathea zebrina. 462 

Catananche coerulea, gathering and 

G. Mileham 1908, 550, 606 

Calceolaria Burhidgei, 633, 670 

preserving. 312 

Gretehen, 562 

Golden Gem, 283 

Caterpillar, 420 

Harold Wells, 16 

is there a climbing? 027 

Caterpillar* in tin box, f,24 

Henry Trior, 562 

Vettch'x Hybrid, 311, 655 

on Brussels Sprouts, 564 

H. J. Jones 1908. 472. 484 

Calceolarias, herbaceous, winter treat¬ 

on Cauliflowers, 77 

Holmes’ White, 550 

ment of, 390 

on Chrysanthemum-leaves, 470 

Horace Martin failing, 420 

how to grow, 212 

on Rose-trees, 420 

Improved Masse, 404 

in cold-frame, 54 

on Plum .and Pear-trees. 470 

inodorum plenissimuin, 122 

preparing frames for, 354 

Cattleya Bowrivgiaaa, 499 

James Bateman, 523 

Calcium carbide residue. 586 

labiatn, 475 

Jnrdin des Plantes, 606 

Camassia, 496 

Cauliflower Autumn Giant, 373 

Jessie Madeline Cole, 590 

Cussicki, 496 

Cauliflowers, caterpillars on, 77 

J. J. Daniels, 16 

csculcnta, 496 

early, 233 

J. J. Hart. 523 


Fraseri, 496 
I.eiehtlini, 496; 
cocrulea, 496 


alba, 496; atro 


coerulea, 496 

amellia, Amaryllis. andfCrin maltreat 

mOfgttlZBd by \jVjO 



forcing, 27 

Ceanothus and Solatium under glass. 

34 

Jre dc Versailles, 589 
'gkin*. 250 


Chrysanthemum - leaves, caterpillars 
on, 470 
Le Cygne, 523 
Lillie, 580 
Lillie Godfrey. 484 
Mab Ellis, 562 
Marjorie Goldsmith, 550 
Marquis of Northampton, 56*2 
Martin Salisbury, 498 
Mary Donnellan. 606 
i Mary Mason, 16 

I Maurice J. Cole, 550, 6185 

I Maxim, 523 

J maximum, 437; in. elegans, 47; m. 

G. H. Sage, 47; m. grandiflorum, 
47; rn. James Cocker, 47; m. King 
| "Edward VII., 47; in. M. Prichard, 
47; m. Mrs. Head, 47: m. Triumph, 
47; m. H’. Robinson, 47 
Melba, 484 

Metchet Beauty, 484 
Mignon, 523 

Miss Catherine Buchanan, 562 
Mme. Gustave llenri, ('4)5 
Mme. Jeanne de la Crouse. 498 
Mrs. A. G. Pirie, 16 
Mrs. A Thomson, 523 
Mrs. Chamberlain, 484 
Mrs. Chas. Penford, 498 
Mrs. F. Moore, 484 
Mrs. G. F. Coster, 484, 498 
Mrs. Harris. 550 
Mrs. Henry Perkins, 16 
Mrs. H. R. Haggard, 16 
Mrs. J. C. Neill, 606 
Mrs. J. Heath. 562 
Mrs. J. Hygate, 498, 562 
Mrs. J. May, 484 
Mrs. L. Thorne, 472, 498 
Mrs. Norman Wrightson, 16 
i Mrs. R. D. Eves, 16 
Mrs. Tom Fagg, 16 
Mrs, Wakefield, 472, 498 
Mr*. W. Knox, 523 • 

Mrs. W. Wells, 606 
I Nina Blick. 523 

Orange Pet, 464, 498 • 

Perle Rose, 523 
Piercy's Seedling, 322 
Pocket!'* Surprise, 562, 606 
Oueeti of Pinks, 562 
Rubble Burns, 586 
R. C. Pulling. 16 
Rev. R. D. Eves, 562 
Richness, 606 
Romance, 498, 528, 550 
Rose Pockett, 550 
Rosie, 498 
Sam Caswell, 590 
segetura, 122 

shows, tlie decline of, 562, 618 
Society. December, exhibition of the, 

1 605 

Source d’Or. 404 
Splendour, 498 
sport, 428 
Tapi* dc Neige, 523 
the Arctic, 2 h 2 
Tonkin, 523 
tricolor, 121 
Tuckswood Early, 550 
Wallace Godfrey, 484 
Well's Scarlet, 390, 523 
White Edith. 550 
White Mass*, 432 
W. H. Lever, 498 
W. J. Higgs, 550 
W. Mease, 498 
W. M. Moir, 16, 606 
Winter Cheer and kindred varieties, 
606 

Wm. Petty, 472 

Chrysanthemums: a few new varieties, 
498 

a few promising early, 523 
after blooming, 523 
n group of, 579 
and rabbits, 46 

Anemone-flowered, at the Crystal 
Palace, 580 

brightly coloured, for the outdoor 
garden, 704 

buds developing ut the present time, 
338 

decorative, displays of, 312 
early, 572; flowering, 704: showing, 
premature buds, 144; two-year-old 
plants, 378 

early-flowering, dividing the plant* 
v. propagating by cuttings, 350; in 
new ground, 321: of a dark colour, 
596; Pompon, 606; propagating, 
562; seasonable notes on, 215: 
t reatment, of young plants, 61 
exhibiting, 698 
exhibition, 606 
feeding, 312 
for cutting, 688 
for decoration, 669, 688 
for exhibition. 590 
for grouping, 579 

for home decoration, points to 
watch, *204 

for the conservatory, 114 
for the open air, 606 
for various pur|>oses, 550 
garden, 522 

groups of. at shows, 562, 632 
growing for exhibition, 538; three 
plants in n pot, 252; too tall, 
Kathleen Thompson, 590, 618, 649 106 

King of Plumes, 618, 649 hardy, 04& 

Kitty Rogers, 472 i Jiow to grow a mixed collection, 666 

Lady Smith of Trcleske. 4«4 in the border, 350 

in their summer quarters', 227 

URBAN A-CHAM : 


I Ceanotbuses, 291 
two good, 460 
Celeriac, growing, 532 
Celeries at Wisley, 025 
Celery, 142 
a note on, 597 
blanching. 401 
| bolting, 544 
decayed, 586 
diseased, 630 
earthing up, 896 
fly, the, 373, 424, 482, 601, 683 
growing on the bed system. 128 
late, 228 

leave*, blight oil, 420 
mug got in, 512, 650 
running to seed, 630 
Celosias in autumn, 251 
Centuuren, 100 
babylonica, 109' 
dealbata, 109 
glastifolia, 109 
maeroccphala, 109 
montana, 109; alba, 109 
ruthcnica, 109 
Cerastinm tomentotum, 555 
Cerusu* pseudo-Cerasus, VU 
Cercis Siliquastrum, 80 
t'ereu* multiplex at Myadlelon House, 
Waltham Cross, CC1 
Centrum elegans, .586 
Smitiii, 148 

Chamtebntia joliolota, 29 
('hai\ia’rnps fortunei in a Hampshire 
garden. 623 

Cheitnatobia brumstta, 150 
Cbciranthus mutabilis, 194 
Cherries (dessert) turning yellow, 275 
failing, 248 

Morello, failing, 220, 276, 558 
Cherry, a flue wild. 574 
Bigarreau de Schreken, 196 
Amber Heart or Kcutish Bigarreau, 
*299 

Archduke, 299 

the double-flowering. 70 

the Japanese, 209 

the Morello, pruning and training, 
652, 692 

Chestnut-tree, Sweet, 323 
Chickens, dry feeding for. 39, 301, 399 
Chicory, 694 
as saluding. 24 
blanching, 302 

Chimonunthua fragraus from seeds, 
229 

Chionanthus, 347 
ret us us, 347 
virginieus, 347 
Chionodoxas, 110, 122 
Cliorozema llendersoni, 552 
Chorozemas after blooming, 80 
Christmas, flowering bulbs for, 390 
Chrysanthemum A. Howard, 550 
Allman's Yellow, 618 
Amarantha, 484 
annual. Morning Star. 121 
another sport of the MassC- family, 
350 

Beacham Keeling. 562 

Bertie Bindon, 606 

Bessie Evans, 562 

Caprice de Printemps. 536, 580 

carinatum, 121 

Carmalitc, 523 

Charles Jonce, 498 

Clara Vernuni, 484, 498 

Clara Wells, 484, 498 

Comtesse Foucher de Curie), 472 

coronarium, 121 

Cottage Pink, 515 

C. Roligant, 550 

Crown Jewel Improved, 550, G06 

culture, seasonable notes on. 36: 

the decorative aspect of, 018 
cuttings, 586; striking, 618 
Dennis Kirby, 16 
Doreen, 562 

Dorothy Gouldsmith, 16 
early-flowering, 704; Hector, 

528: Pompon Diamond. 590 
Elsie Matthews, 550 
Elsie Towers, 472 
Emperor of China, 515 
E. Nottell, 550 


464. 


latifolium. 47 




GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


v 


Chrysanthemums in 3-inch pots, 315 

Judkins by points, 522 
Keeping the flowers, 484 
late-flowering, failing, 162; varieties, 

late outdoor. 5Jo 

leading, ut the Crystal Palace 
show, 522 

market, 498. 579: for October and 
November flowering. 562 
miniature. 364 

naturally- grown plants, 550, 590, 632 
new, 484. 550, 562. 018; early flower¬ 
ing. 401: singles, 188, 472; 

Japanese, 16. 472 

notes on. 120, 420: new varieties, 
606 

old, 252; border, 141 
oil walls, 204 
outdoors, 444 

Pompon, miniature - flowered, 605; 

vases of, 515 
potting, 238 

preparing for next season, 006 
pretty groups of. 580 
prospects of the season. 463 
ripening the wood, 390 
M.*asonablc hints, 10, 46. 114, 180, 204, 
280, 292, 350. 364, 472 
single flowered, 523 
six early, to flower in late Septeh. 
her, 472 

six good decorative for late October 
and early November. 091 
six good dwarf single-flowering, 558 
six outdoor, for succession, 517 
soil for final jKitting, 188 
some new early, 536 
some of the earliest varieties to 
flower, 312 

sport from Souvenir de Petite Amie, 
704 

stopping and tinting, 8. 16, 62, 70 
the annual, 121 
the Crystal Palace Show. 536 
the early-flowering, 444 
the single-flowered early, 356 
to develop second crown buds, 227 
to flower in 6-inch pots, 84 
top-dressing. 378 
treatment when under glass, 432 
twelve early-flowering for indoor 
flowering, 544 

twelve good Japanese for bush 
plants, 472 

twelve of easy culture, 550 
two early-flowering, 390 
two good new October flowering, 472 
two-year-old, out-door, 322 
what to do with rooted cuttings, 
649 

white, yellow, and cream-coloured, 
432 

work among the decorative, 321 
Cineraria and Primula foliuge curling, 
538 

leaves drooping. 54; insects on, 451; 
unhealthy, 44 
Cineraria*. 2 uo. 572 
and their treatment now, 610 
drooping, 531 
failiug, 586, 640 
flagging. 4 


Colchicum, 566 
autumnale, 566 
Bivome, 566 
Bornmulleri, 566 
byzantinum, 566 
crociflorum, 566 
Decaisnei, 566 
Hauasknechtii, 566 
lictuni, 566 
libanoticum, 566 
montanum, 566 
Parkinson!, 567 
Sibtborpi, 507 
speciosum, 567 
Tenorei, 567 
variegatum, 567 
Coleus Cordelia, 655 
in winter, keeping, 586 
thyrsoideus, 656 
Coleworts, 233 
College, Agricultural, 428 
Collet ias and Discarias, 56 
I Colletia spinosa, flowering shoot of, 56 
, Colour in winter, 6 
Combination, a pleasing, 164 
a striking, 411 
| Commelina cosiestta, 422 
Cone flowers, 298 
I two annual, 473 
I Conetiower, the showy, 687 
| Convolvulus major and minor, 179 
minor albus, 179 
wild, destroying, 218 
propagating, 344 

t'ordylines, avenue of, at Fata, nr. 

Cork, 635 
Coreopsis. 461 
artieulata, 461 
coronata, 461 
Drummondi, 461 
Engelmanni, 461 
grandiflora, 461 
Granti, 461 
lanceoluta. 461 
palmata, 461 
rosea, 401 
Stillmunni, 461 
tinetoria, 4C1 
verticil lata, 461 
Corn Cobs. 159 

Cornflower, the perennial, 109 
Corn, Indian, growing, l(i« 

Mas, 235 

! Cornua brachypoda, fluttering shoots 
of, 483 

macrophyUa, flowering shoots of, 
483 

Coronilla Emerus, 623 
glauca, 21 
iberica, 255 

Cortaderia conspicuu at Ashbourne, nr. 
Cork, 539 

Corylus species, 44u 
Cosmos, 206 
bipinnatus, 494 
Cotoneaster applauata, 616 
cutting back a, 48o 
horizontal!*, 685; in rorky quarry at 
Ashbourne, Glounthaune, 685 
Cotoneasters, 573 
Couve Tronchuda, 476 
Coverings, wall, for winter and spring, 
526 


red-spider on, 172 
Ciiiuainoinum Campbora, 56 
Citrus trifoliuta, 2115 
triptcra in Hampshire, 90 
Clay soil, 572 
Clematis, 358 
and Rose, 428 
Duchess of Kdinburgli, 462 
Fairy Queen, 203 
graveolens, 468 
injured, 400 

Jackmani, change of flower ill, 2G3 
.If me. Baron Veillard, 513 
montana, 609; pruning, 066 
Viticella, 311 
ClematLsc*, feeding, 283 
from the North of Ireland. 6 
grafting, 480 
in bed, 94 
planting, 608 
propagating. 315 
Clerodendron fullax, 326 
foetidum, 520 
treatment of, 328 
Clethra alnifolia, 449 
Clianthus puniceus albas, 389; and its 
varieties. 389 

Climber for lean-to house in a town, 
406 

for producing cut flowers, 334 
Climbers, annual, in pots, 283 
evergreen, for north wall, 118 
for perpendicular bank, 422 
for trellis, 666 
garden, 526 

greenhouse, pruning, 20 
on walls, 607 
treatment of. 4G0 
Clintonia pulchella, 260 
Clivia in bad health, 20 
miniata citrina, 655 
Clivia*, 443 

Clover in tennis-lawn, 250, 691 
Club Mosses, 563 

Cobiea scandens as a balcony climber, 
158; in the open, keeping, 313 
Cockchafer, the, 210 
Cockscombs, 700 
and Balsams, 118 
Cocoa-nut-fibre, uses of, 62/ 
Codlln-motb, the, 168 
Cadogyne cristata, 49: grow^fTg7*19 

Digitized by 


Crab, Chicago, 375 
Fairy, the, 375 
John Downie, 375 
Mammoth, 375 
Montreal Beauty. 375 
Scarlet or Siberian, 375 
Tartarian or Yellow Siberian, 375 
the Dartmouth, 375, 560 
Crabs fruiting, 375 
ornamental. 560 
the Lady, 375 
the Orange, 375 
Transcendent, .375 
Transparent. 375 
Cranberries, CIO 
Crane's-bill, 180 
Crape Myrtle, the, 349 
Crassula eoccinea, 08 
laetea, 633 
Cruta-gua, 574 
coccinea, 608 

Pyrucantha pruning, 503. 600 
Creepers, evergreen, for north wall, 

for cool greenhouse, 572 
on walls, 409 
Crinum H. J. Elwes, 655 
Mearsi, 655 
Crintims, 94 
Crocus Impernti, 661 
medius, 540 

the uutumn, transplanting. 158 
winter-blooming, 5 
zonatus, 514 
Crocuses, 122 
Crops, the fruit, 491 
the season's, 317 
Croquet-lawn in bad condition, 6 
Croton-stems, spots on. 700 
Crowea aaligna, 592 
Crowfoot, the snowy, 098 
Crown Imperial not flowering, 122 
soil for the, 123 
Cuckoo-spit, 241 
Cucumbers, 453 
eel-worm in, 208 
failing, 68 
frame, 155 
hotbed for, 132 
in frames, growing, 98 
leaves withering, 94 
Cucumbers, winter, 289, 454, 025 


I Cultivation, deep, 450 
Currant-bushes, aphides on, 302; 
Black, overgrown. 328; fungus on, 
386; green-fly on, 44u; red scale 
, on, 26 

leaves falling, 196 
mite, the Black, 420 
the flowering, 235 

Currants, Black, 304; big bud in, 327; 
increasing, 802; not fruiting. 534 
Red and White, as cordons, 062; 
losing their leaves, 702 
Cyclamen cornis, old, 54 
Giant White, 22. 87 
persicum at Heading, 87 
Cyclamens, 88 
after blooming. 245 
failing, 444 
growing, 656* 
improvement in, 21 
in rooms, 154 
in window, 127 
potting off, 124 
treatment of, 172, 224 
Wiganiunum, 120 
Cyrubidium Sanderi, 89, 102 
I Cypripedium Alcibiades, 64 
Spicerianum, 669 
Cyrtanthi in flower, 112 
Cyrtanthus, 486 

Cyrtomium falcatum Roehfordi, Got 
Cystopteris alpina, 646 
(British), 046 

fragilis, 646; Dieklcana, 646 
, montana, 646 
regia, 046 

Cytlsus Ad ami, 201 
Andre an us, 466 
Firefly, 610 

Sooparius Andreuntis in greenhouse, 

I 50 


D 


DAFFODILS in 1907, 261; choice, at 

Ditton. 166 
failing to Hoorn, 49 
forcing, 528 
in Grass, 122 
in pots, 137 

in the West of Cornwall, 140 
not flowering, 11H 
planting, 408 

popularity of the, in London and 
suburbau gardens, 183 
treatment of. 140 
Dublin C. E. Wilkins. 487 
Chus. H. Curtis, 487 
Clara, 487 
Crimson Prince, 487 
Daisy Easton, 4*8 
Daisy Staples, 488 
Dorothy. 487 
Elsa Ellrich, 487 
Etruria, 487 
failing, 358 
Fairy, 488 
Kaunus, 488 
Flag of Truce, 488 
Flame, 4*7 
Hamlet. 483 
Harold Herman. 487 
Helium, 487 
H. Shoesmith. 4s7 
H. W. Shilltm, 488 
Hyacinth. 488 
Ivernia, 487 
J. B. Riding, 48s 
Kathleen Bryant, 488 
Lydia, 487 
Mauve Queen, 4h7 
Mrs. F. Grimsted, 488 
Mrs. G. Stevenson, 488 
Mrs. H. Shoesmith. 488 
Mrs. McMillan, 488 
Mrs. W. Hopkins, 488 
Nelson, 48S 
Peggy, 487 
plants, 14u 
Rainbow, 488 
Rev. A. Bridge, 487 
Ruby Grinsted, 488 
Saturn. 487 
T. A. Havemeyer, 488 
the, 447 
The Bride, 487 
Victorian, 488 
White Lady, 4*8 
W. Hopkins, 483 
Wm. Marshall, 487 
Dahlias, 393 

Cactus, 110, 487; for garden decora¬ 
tion, 436 
increasing, 54 
keeping, 479 
new, 487 
storing, 572 
summer work, 282 
Daisies in lawn, 432, 517 
Michaelmas, staking and tying, 249, 
353 

Damson trees not fruiting, 588 
Dandelions in lawn, 40 
Dandelion, the, as a vegetable, 155 
Daphne Dauphine, C95 
hybrids, 095 

Mezereum grandiflorum, 608 
Davallia Braziliensis. 004 
bullata, 521 
dissects, 522 

Death’s-head-moth, the, 308 
Decoration, table, 338 
Decorations, floral, 19 


Decorations, table, at the National 
Sweet Pea Society's show, 322 
Delphiniums from seed, 544 
Dendrobium Burfordense, 35 
nobile, 22, 49, 537 
Wardian uni, 521 
Wig a nice xanthochilum, 175 
Desfontainea spinosa, 494 
Deubzia gracilis, 68, 572; after bloom¬ 
ing. 206 
Deutzias, 324 
Dianthus glacialis, 372 
Lady Dixon, 200 
Napoleon III., 422 
Piehorisanda thyrsiflora, 510 
Dielytra speetahilis, 600 
Dimorphotheca Eekloni, 297 
Diplucue glutinosus, 592 
. Disco ria ser rat (folia, 56 
Dondia Epipactis, 4 h 
D onegal, scene in, 075 
j Dowingia pulchella, 260 
Draha brumefolia, 218 
Dractena-leaves in bad condition, 245 
Grimy* Winteri, 249 
Duckling, the early, industry, 171 
i Duckweed, 400 

Dutchman’s Pipe, the, 421 
I)ust-destructor, ash, .546 
Dyer's Tick-seed, 461 


E 

EARTH, burnt, 2G 
Earwigs, 126 
a plague of, 292 

Echcverias during the winter, 400 
Ecliinops multiplex, 001 
Edgings for spring, 304 
1 Edwardsia tetraptera, 185 
Egg-eating, the vice of, 665 
Eggs of insect, 180 
preservation of, in water-glass, 301 
soft-shelled, 371 

Egg, the age of. determining, 065 
Embothrium coccineum, 617 
Endive, 390 

storing and blanching, 402 
Endives, 314 

Enkianthus campanulatus, 361 
Epidendrum cochleatum, 216 
prismatocarpum, 293 
verrucosum, 521 
Epiphyllum truncaUim, 106 
Eranthemuin pulclicllum, 592 
Eremurus, 022 

bed at Myddelton House, 675 
Erica cundidissimu, 136 
gracilis nivalis, 510 
Iiisitanica, 695 
ventricosa, 228 
Wilmoreana, 112 
Erigeron, 422 
Eriobotrya japoiilca, 452 
Ermine-moth, the, 264 
Kryngium Olivierlanum, 312 
Eryngiums, 354 
Erythronium revolutum, 648 
Escallonias, 400 

Eucalyptus Beauchampiana, 665 
cutting down. 544 
failing, 194 
flcifoliu, 4, 341, 655 
Eucharis, growing. 308 
Eucryphia Billiardieri, 96 
cordifolia, 96 
Moorei, 90 
pinnntifolia, 90 
Eucryphia*. 96 
Eugenia IJgni, 497 
Eulalia japonica variegata, 57, 348 
Euoii>mus a lulus, 041 
curopfcus, 574 
Hieboldianus, 6*5 
Eupatoriura monticola, 360 
petiolare, 860 

Euphorbia splcndcns, 380, 627 
Eureka paper, value of, 187 
Evergreens, cutting. 549 
Kxacum macranthum, 482 


F 

FAB1ASA irnbricata in a Hereford¬ 
shire garden, 561 

Feather-picking, its cause and cure, 
505 

Fern, a distinct Shield, 637 
case, a window, 144 
Maiden hair, in a wire-basket, 118 
notes, 7 

spores, saving, 362, 384 

the Boston, and its varieties, 120 

Ferns and the black thrips, 591 
and the winter, 135 
British, as town plants, 293, 442 
covering greenhouse wall with, 8 
creeping, 5S2 
Filmy, 563, 6S0 
for elevated positions, 269 
for the winter months, 552 
from spores, raising, 646 
grown in baskets, 175 
hardy, for a town greenhouse, 84; 

notes on. 322 
in forecourt gardens, 203 
in pots, growing, 537 
in the house, 251, 869, 591 
layering, 144 

Maiden-hair, repotting, 136, treat- 


UNIVERS1TY°0F ILMNOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



vi 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


Ferns, new, G04 
on cork, 362 

potting, 7(5; and watering, 22 

propagating, 604 

raising, 84 

recess for, 54 

repotting, 199, 624 

scale on, 542 

seasonable notes on, 582 

seedling, 8, 489 

some deciduous, 521 

variegated, for the warm-house, 483 

watering, 624 

Fernery, climbing plants for, 288 
the hardy, 489 
Fiona elastica, 572 

Fig-border, stones as a mulching, 468 
tree overgrown, 359; the treatment 
of, 638 

Figs bursting, 270 
dropping, 242 
growing too strongly, 376 
on walls, 442 
outdoor, 438 

restricting the roots of, 303 
the second crop, 275 
under glass, 242 
Fig-wort, the Cape, 488 
Filberts and Cob-nuts, 559 
Finch, saffron, death of, 479 
Fire-bush, the, 617 
Fir Grange, hardy flowers at, 48 
trees, injury to, 186 
Flame-flower* and Reed Gran* in Mr. 
Beamish'* garden at Ashbourne, 
Cork, 609 

Flume-flower, the, in Ireland, 17 
Flax, a hardy flew Zealand, in Mr 
Smith's nursery at flewry, 661 
Flaxes, hardy, New Zealand, 661 
Flea-bane, 422 

Flies, blue-bottle, in vinery, 264 
Flower-bed, 372 

border, the hardy, mulching, 123 
borders, tidying, 408 
competitions, childrens’, 145 
garden, the, watering, 394; work in 
the, 513 

names, country, 18 
notes, hardy, 110, 213, 255, 832, 460 
seeds, home-gathered, 383 
Flowers, a pretty vase of spring, 198 
and Grasses, an arrangement of, 284 
arrangement of. 649 
bouquet of wild. 284 
cut, 564; and their preservation, 19; 
for competition in May, 153; in 
the house, 594; seasonable ar¬ 
rangements of, 197 
dried for winter cutting, 390 
dropping, 510 

early spring, in the house, 688 
for harvest festivals, 298 
for scent-making, growing, 514 
hardy, at Kir Grange, 48: fragrant, 
borders of. 514; in autumn, 527; 
in masses, 256; notes on, 648 
in the house, 19, 499 
long-stemmed, 458 
mulching hardy, in winter, 555 
night-scented, 298 
out of season, 538 
packing, 637 

some everlasting, for w inter use, 
419 


Fruit-houses, red-spider in, 186; ripen¬ 
ing the wood, 360; scorching of 
foliage in, 133 
picked by birds, 92 
prospects, 37, 91. 104: in South 
Hants, 276; in West Surrey, 359 
show, notes from the, 501; the 
R.H.S.. 4(57 
storing, 502 

Fruits and vegetables, ripe and un¬ 
ripe, 342 

grafting seedling tree, 118 
new, raising, 104 
small, the cultivation of, 107 
Fruit-tree bark dead. 54 
for north border, 340 
Fruit-trees, 220 
artificial manures for, 80 
autumn pruning of, 3fc7 
blighted. 340 
cleansing, 559 
cordon, treatment of, 588 
feeding, 10 
food for, 067 
for fence and wall, 37 
for new garden, 643 
for north walls, 144 
for wall. 438 
grafting, 69 
in bloom. 173 
in pots. 69 

lifting the routs of, 533 
manuring, 681 
Moss on, 652 
mulching. 118. 186, 242 
neglected, 34(5; treatment of, 547 
old, 5s7; renovating, 103 
on walls not hearing, 270 
orchard, shortening, 480 
planting, 41, 644 
pruning newlv-planted, 660, 083 
renovating, 173 
sewage for, 546 
slitting bark of. 494 
the spraying of. 644 
thinning flower-buds on, 607 
transplanting. 600 
treatment of. 508 
wall suckers to, 480 
wrong pruning of, 587 
Fuchsia Corallc, 650 
FAhel, 325 

garden varieties of. 325 
increasing. 652 

Mrs. Bundle in Beckham Rye Bari: 
in 1V06, 

Fuchsias, 3 , 328 , 689 
for beds, 107 
in winter, keeping, 553 
points to watch before flowering, 
164 

standard, 58; lifting, 406 
their winter quarters, 390 
Fungi on Beech-trees. 572 
Fungus in lawn, 506, 558 
name of, 155 
on Currant-bushes, 380 
on Juniper, 141 
on Syriuga, 241 
Funkias for potting, 650 
variegated-leaved, for the green¬ 
house, 74; in the house, 127 
Furze and Sweet Briers, cutting down, 
201 


504 


some wet-weather, 282 
spring, under trees, 698 
sweet-scented, in the house 
sweet-smelling garden, 73 
three good spring, 163 
white, for cutting, 049 
Foliage for cutting, 058 
Food for fruit-trees, 607 
Forget-me-nots, 383, 514, 687 
Forsythia europawi, 90 
intermedia, 9(3 
siispensa, 90 
viridissima, 90 
Forsythias, the, 90 
Fota, Co. Cork, 685 
Fowl-run, a sour, 79 
Fowls, droppings of, and weeds, 640 
gapes in, 53 

management of. 53. 157 
manure, 12, 80: value of, 572 
roup in, 79, 117 
Foxgloves, 354 

white and spotted by the side 
half-open pergola, 281 
Fragrance in pot-plants, 88 
Frame, a propagating, how 
manage. 645 

Frames, garden, on raised beds, 104 
Fraxinus Ornus, 342 
Mariesii, 397 

Freesia Chapmani, 020. 655 
Tubergeui Amethyst, 620. 656 
Freesias, new, 620 
Fringe-trees, the, 347 
Fritillaria armena, 0 
Mcleagris alba, 355 
Frost and Wallflowers, 146 
effects of the, in the south-west, 
125 

the effects of, in the West of Eng¬ 
land, 55 

Fruit blossom, protecting, 680 
buds and birds, 638; of Pours and 
Apples, destruction of by birds. 

14 

crop in the west, 303 
crops, 219, 491 
culture, 414 

from birds, protectin g._242 
gathering 

Digitize 


ot 


to 


IB, UU 

••“""Cot .gie 


GAILLARDIAS and Auriculas, 382 
Galega officinalis, -160 
Galegas for forcing. 4 
Gall-mites on Sycamore-tree, 204 
on Willow, 446 
Galtonia candicans, 413 
Gapes iu fowls, 53 
Garden, a Fellside, 581 
a neglected, 572 
a new, fruit-trees for, 644 
a tidy kitchen, 597 
a walled-in, plants for, 167 
a w'ooden-walled, 546 
bog-plants for, 167 
bulbs for, 461 
climbers, 526 

fruit and vegetable, renovating, 516 

in a Donegal, 675 

kitchen, shaded, 402 

large, manuring and cropping, 452 

making a, 480 

manuring a, 450, 002 

mice in, 440 

moorland, planting a, 32 
new, 344 

on chalk, planting, 17 
outdoor, 203 
refuse of the. 421 
rubbish, burning, 430, 054 
the, ill tile house, 499 
walls, 178; in summer, 601 
work, 11, 25, 38. 52, 67, 78. 93. 105, 
110. 130. 143. 156, 170, 181, 193. 205, 
217, 230, 243, 258. 272, 286, 3U0, 314, 
327, 342, 356, 370, 384, 397. 412, 426, 
438. 450, 464, 478. 492, 504, 516, 53(1, 
543, 556, 570, 584, 598, 612, 626, 638, 
(550, 664, 679, 690. 703 
Gardens, childrens’, 81 
Ferns in forecourt, 293 
flower, simple and geometrical plant¬ 
ing, SI 

hedgehogs in, 190 
London, water for, 700 
our school, 104 
aside climbers iu, 202 


Gardener, what is an amateur? 402 
Gardenias in had condition, 580 
losing their leaves, 572 
pruning, 691 
unhealthy, 131 

Gardening, County Council, 635 
enterprise, a 328 
front-<loor, 512 
municipal, 594, 622 
under difficulties. 354 
Garrya elliptica, 695 
Gas, acetylene, residue from, 98 
Gaultheria proeumbens, 44 
Geese, rearing and marketing of, 599 
Genista fragraus after blooming, 181: 
increasing from cuttings, 052; 
treatment of, 80 

Genistas dropping their flowers, 689 
Gentiana acaulis, 872 
aselepiadea, 31; from seed, raising, 
73 

arccrnensis, 7 
bavarica, 372 
verna, 479, 648 
Gentianella, 427 
Gentian seed, 680 
the Willow, 31 
Geranium armenum, 139 
Endressi, 189 
Fremonti, 191 
grand iflor uni, 189 
ibericum, 191 
Phucum, 189 
pratense, 189 
sanguineum, 169 
Walliehianum, 189 
Geraniums, 189 
spring struck, 660 

Geum rivale (Leonard’s variety), 437 
Gillenia trifoliata under glass, 74 
Gladioli, early-flowering, 451 
for forcing. 497 
Gladiolus Tne Bride, 256 
princeps, 421 
Gladwin, the, 061 
Glass discs for flowers, 344 
Glasshouse difficulty, a, 331 
Glasshouses, travelling, 575 
unheated, 21 

Glen, improving a, 554, 596 
Gloriosa, 486 

Gloriosas, treatment of, 586 
Gloxinias, 212, 460 
and Begonias, thrips on, 241 
feeding, 124 
keeping, 672 
seedling, 572 
Goat’8-beard, the, 667 
Godetia Crimson King, 383 
Goldfinch, treatment of. 505 
Goldfish, 231 

management of, 40 
pond, management of. 171 
Gold Mohur-trce, the, 124 
Goniophlebium subauriculatum, 269 
Good King Henry, 315 
Gooseberries, 339 
as cordons, 576 
growing too strongly. 46(5 
propagating, 452 
pruning, 600 

Gooseberry and Currant-bushes, prun¬ 
ing, 172 

bushes, spots on, 187 
caterpillar, the, 141, 340, 680 
mildew, 8, 126, 247, 594; spread of 
the, iu England. 292 
shoots unhealthy, 644 
the, 560 

Grafting wax, ruakiug, 68 
Grape Frontignan, 339 
Grape Hyacinth, Heidreich’s, 123 
thinning, 242 

Grapes failing, 506; to set, 248 
Frontignan, 339 
in bad condition, 215, 416 
keeping, 376 
late, 180 

mildewed, 91, 315 
rust on, 216 

scalding in, 173, 232, 345 
thinning, 245 

Grass, a beautiful, 566; and effective, 
539; grubs in, 531; seed, sowing, 
449; short, for hotbeds, 117 
Grasses, ornamental, (5; for decora¬ 
tion, how to grow, gather, and 
dry, 18 

Greenfly on Roses. 446 
Greenhouse, annuals for the, 50 
climbers, 251 

cold, plants for, 558; Vines for, 534 
cool, creepers for, 572 
erecting a. 700 

for Carnations and Roses, 413 
heatiug small, 40 
managing a, 74 
notes. 380 

roof, beauty on the, 684 
shading u, 94 

small, ventilation and staging for, 
361 

the amateur’s, in winter, 610 
the warm, in winter, 620 
Tomatoes lu, 80 
Greens, winter, planting, 290 
Grevillea robusta, failing, 158 
sulphurca, flowering shoot of. 425 
Grevilleas. the, 425 
Griselinia littoralis, 309, 425 
Ground, vacant, 597: trenching, 481 
Grouping, waterside, 621 
Grub, name of, 44 
Grubs destroying plants, 280 


Grubs in Grass, 531 
in soil, 96 

injuring Begonia-tuber.-, 16; injuring? 

plants, 202 
killing Stocks, 308 
on Copper Beech, 341 
on leaves, 150 

white, attacking roots of Vines, b 
Guelder Rose, treatment of. 365 
Roses, growing in pots, pruning, 7(jO 
Gunnera, 554 
chilensis, 554 
manicata, 555 
scabra, 554 . 

Gum-trees, 94 

Gymnogramma schizophylla, 488 
Gypsophila cerastioides, 595 
elegans, 315, 595 
fnstigiata, 59G 
for winter, sprays of, 284 
libanotica, 596 
muralis, 596 

paniculuta, 328, 590; fl.-pl., 460: pro¬ 
tecting, 179; raising from seed, 
111 

perfoliuta, 596 
jirostrata, 596 
Raddeana, 596 
repens. 596 
Rokcjeka, 596 
Steveni, 596 

the double, increasing, 214 
Gypsophila*, propagating, 334 


H 


11 AREA ARIA pusilla, 537 
Susanna 1 , 322 

Habranthus pratensis, 200 
llabrotharnnus, cutting down, G40 
Hiemanthus, 486 
Hairworms, 210 
Hamamelis arborea, 1 
Harbingers, early, 609 
Hatching by hens. 79 
Heaths, hardy, in flower, 151 
Hedera dent at a variegata, 616 
Hedge, a dividing. 561 
Sweet Brier, 417 
Hedgehogs in gardens, 190 
Ilelenium, 163 
autuinnale, 168 
Bigelovii. 163 
Bolanderi. 163 
Hoopesii, 163 
Hclianthemums, 460 
Heliunthus amiuus, 381 
argyrophyllus, 381 
cucumerifolius, 381 
debilis, 881 

Heliehrysum rosrnarinifoUum, 365 
Hcliconiu aureo-striatu, 431 
illustris, 481; i. rubricaulis, 431 
Sanderi. 431 
Helieonias, 431 
Helionopsis breviscapa, 855 
Heliotrope for winter flowering, 80 
out-of-doors, 437 
the Winter. 660 
Heliotropes, 636 
for winter blooming, 278 
from seed, 40 
Hellebore powder, 252 
Helleborus fcut id us, 575 
Helxine Soleiroli in pots for furnish¬ 
ing, 58 

Hemerocallis Dumortieri, 214 
hybrida Aureole. 24] 

Hens, hatching by, 79 
laying, feeding, 399 
Hepaticus, 123 
Herlw and their culture, 207 
growing, 80 
Hibiscus syriacus, 324 
Hippeastrum equestre, 112 
Mrs. Carl Jey, 656 
pardinum. 148 
species, 592 

Hippophtu rhamnoides, 574 
Hoeing, 204, 450 

Hollies and Yews, cutting back, 414 
from seed, raising, C2S 
moving, 177 
planting, 29 
propagation of. 558 
pruning, 118, 347 

Holly-hedge, strengthening a, 586 
Hollvhocks, 596 
diseased, 126, 292, 517 
flagging, 427 
planting, 539 
seedling, 48 
Honesty, 165 
seed-sowing, 313 
Honeysuckle, pruning, 8 
Honeysuckles, 621 
Hops, spent, as manure, 479 
Horse Chestnut, the, 459 
Horse-radish, 597, 693 
Hot-bed. making a, 586 
material, 570 
the amateur’s, 086 
House, cold, plants for, 592 
flies, 141 

flowers in the, 4B9 
insects in, 113 
Houseleeks, Cobweb. 392 
Houses, creeper-clad, 100 
Hoyn bella. 192 

carnosa, 348 ; not thriving,__131 


in Caruation-pots, SO " treatment of, 494 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


VII 


Kumea clegans. 381 
Hyacinth gigantea, 3 
Hyacinths after blooming, 80 
failing. 627 
iu pot*, 3 

Roman, failing, 704 
Hydrangea arborescen* grandiflora, 
610 

treatment of, 54, 278 
Hydrangeas, 282 . 302 

fiDd Yucca* at Abbotsbury, 230 
blue, 238. 365. 397 , 460, 572, 704 
colouring, 428 

Hypericum Hookerianum, 430 


I 

ILEX 574 

Impatiens iiolsli, 200 
Inc&rvillea Delavayi, 124: in the 
garden, part of group of, 811 
grandiflora, 673 

Incubator, hints on working a, 618 
India-rubber-plant, repotting, 26 
luect attacking trees, 328 
eggs of. 186 
name of, wanted. 202 
Insects for name, 519 
in garden. 115, 180 
In house, 113 
on Pansy-bed, 470 
on Phillyreas, 564 
some injurious* orchard, 318 
Iponiwa l>ona-nox, 80, 633 
Iris bucharica, 867; in a Surrey 
garden . 367 
flmbriata, 54 
fodidissima, 648 
germanica, a white, 191, 240 
jajtonica, 54 
orchioide.s, 367 
pallida rar. Titled, 179 
pumila, 123 

reticulata after flowering in pots, 
68: bulbs diseased, 474 
Spanish, leaves withering. 245 
stylosa, 674: not flowering, C 
Sum an a. 68 

the Algerian, 674; in Cornwall. 0, 
48 

the Crimean, 123 
the Mourning, 68 
the Snake’a-head, 226 
treatment of, 541 
tuberosa, 226 
Warlevensie, 367 
Irises, Flag, 609 
flowers for every garden, 698 
German. 334 ; moving, 240 
Spanish, 354 
winter. 460 
Ivied, 425 

good variegated. 704 
l\ora» in flower, 326 


J 

JACOBIN!A chrysostcphana. 471 
Jasmine , the Chili , 443 
white, pruning, 365 
Jasminum nudiflorum, 663 
priinulinurn. 74 
Jenny, Creeping. 321 
Judas-tree, the, 80 
Juniper, fungus on, 141 
the Golden. 29 

Junipcrus chinemds nana aurea. 017 


Larkspurs for dry places, 595 
Lathyrus Drummondl. 256 
latifolius flowering late, 448 
pubeseens, 158 
White Pearl, 409 
Laurels, 152 
cutting back, 484 
pruning, 12 

Laurel, the Common, 95 
the Mountain, 194 
Lavatera, 627 
trimestris, 312 
Olbia, 91 

Lavender, growing, 146. 614 
plants, old, cutting down, 60 
Lavcrna atra, 245 
Law- 

Amateur auctioneering. 463 
Bees, ownership of, 287 
Branches overhanging, 157 
Compensation for trees planted in 
garden, 599 

Contribution to journal. 171 
Cutting neighbour's hedge, 231 
Damage to gardens and garden- 
fences, 315 

by game, rabbits, etc., 259 
Debt ow ing by person in India, 12 
Kdging tiles, removing, 79 
Employer's liabiliay, 131 
Employment of gardeners, 493 
Encroachment by local authority, 
117 

Fencing land, 665 
Fowls trespassing, 117 
Gardener and holiday, 117 
and notice, 244 
dismissal of. 557 
dismissal without notice, 171 
head, and his employer, 557 
Gardener’s notice to leave, 117, 301 
Gipsy encampment, 557 
Guardians' employe trading on his 
own account, 117 
Hedge, cutting top of, 301 
eaten by horses, 273 
Income tax and rating, 651 
Landlord’s right to enter and repair 
premises, 599 

Liabilities as to cleansing of road. 
157 

Life interest and insurance, 557 
Manorial rights, 427 
Neighbour, a, and hi-s eat Bearer, 479 
destroying eats, 557 
Neighbour's demand for trees to be 
cut, 301 

Notice to groom-gurdener, 651 
to quit after holding-over, 37; 
allotments, 479 
Nuisance from poultry. 478 
Nursery-garden and property ad¬ 
joining brickfield, 614 
Overhanging branches of trees, 26 
Plants, right to remove, 493 
Purchase and completion: right to 
profits, C65 

of lease of garden, 599 
Prizes at a flower show, 427 
Removing Rose-trees, 12 
Repairing hedge to keep out horses, 
53 

Seed warranties, 157 
Smell from fried-ftgli shop, 386 
Stile in pathway, erecting, 79 
Succession to wife's property, 651 
Sunlight stopped by neighbour's 
trees, 39 

Tenant and greenhouse, 585 
removing shrubs, 465 
Tenant's right to remove fruit-trees, 
131 

The Destructive Insects Act, 1907, 


K A IN IT. using, 519 
Kalanchoe Dyeri, 124, 650 
Kale Chou de Ru-sse, 98 
Kales. 51. 92 

winter, too early sowing of, 66 
Kalmiu latifolia, 194 
Kefria japonica, treatment of, 132 
Kew. Rhododendron walk at. 111 
Kitchen-garden, making a, 372 

notes for autumn, 314 
Knapweed, the White Mountain, 109 
Kohl Rabi, 288 


LABURNUM, pruning the, 260 
the Evergreen, failing, 572 
the Nepaul, 172 
the New Zealand, 185 
Lacheualia May Crossbie. 656 
Lachenalius, growing, 50 
Lackey-moth, the, 68 
Lady’s Bower, the red-flowered, 311 
Ladia pumila, 475 

Lirlio - Cottleya Digbyano ■ Mossiae 
Queen Alexandra, 257; Myra (Bur- 
ford variety), 227 
Lagerstrcemia indiea, 349 
Lantanas, £41, 386 
dwarf, growing, 200 
in Cumberland, 451 
Lapageria rosea, treatment of, 181 
Lapagerias, the, 389 
Larch-tree*. 328 , 386 / > 

Got 


Digitized by 


398 

Tite, an overgrown. 287 
roots spoiling asphulte, 273 
Tithes and house duty, 661 
Workmen's Act, 1906. 39 
compensation, 858; Act, 479, 531 
Lawn, a weedy, 94 
Daisies on, 517 
draining, 539 
fungus on, 506, 558 
Moss in, 100 , 206, 596 
patches on, 94 
tennis-court, making u, 6.% 
top-dressing a. 691 
treatment of, 422 
weed in, 427, 440, 518 
worms in, 231 
Lawns, Plantains on, 704 
Lawson's Cypress, cutting down hedge 
of, 315 

Leaf-mould, 362 
Leaves, decayed, value of, 131 
turning yellow, 260 
smut on, 274 
Leeks, 272 
bolting, 630 
growing, 68 

Leptoxpermum lanigerum, G42 
Leptospermums, the, 642 
Leschenaultia formosa, 552 
Lespedeza Sieholdi, 520 
Lettuce, 374, 684 

Lettuces All the Year Round and 
Favourite, 208 
attacked by wirewonns, 252 
bolting, 204 
falling, 283 
in spring, 272 

Leucodendron argenteum, 74, 324 
Leucojum autumnale, 488. 489, 514 
Lejjcostegia immersa, 521 
formosa, 687 


Leycostej 


Libocedrus macrolepis. 250 
Libouia floribunda, 480, 552; after 
blooming, 68 

the, striking from cuttings, 200 
Lilac Marie Legraye, 569 
Lilacs, growing, 201 
not flowering, 182 
propagating, 194 
Lilac-trees, cutting hack, 494 
Lilies, Arum, after blooming, 80 
Belladonna, 283 

Bermuda, the second year, 278 
disappointing, 136 
for naturalising, 674 
growing, 448 
notes on, 310 
of the Valley, 418 

Lilium auratum, a fine. 354; in pots, 
58; platyphyllum, 490; potting, 12; 
with fascinted stem, 475 
cundidiim. 172 , 283; diseased, 252; 
failing, 280 , 821; transplanting, 
422 

ehalcedonicum, 334; iu pots, 686 
giganteum, 218, 553; in Mr. 

Chambers’ garden at Ilaslemere, 
Surrey, 553 
Grayi, 475 

Ilenryi in bed of Anna Ollivier Rose, 
487 

Krameri, 332 
longiflorum, potting, 586 
speciosum in the greenhouse, 324; s. 

roseum after flowering, 428 
Washingtonianum minus, 137 
Yoshidai, 488 
Liliums for Scotland, 288 
from seed, 6 
treatment of, 348 
Lily of the Field, 214 
Lily of the Valley, 572; summer treat¬ 
ment of, 226 
Lily, the African, 419 
the Large-flowered Wood, 213 
the Scarborough, growing, 680 
Lime and its application, 142 
the uses of, 285, 289 
Lobelia, blue, 555 
double, 419 

Lobelias, perennial, 596 
stssilifolia, 541 

Loganberries, grubs attacking, 368 
Loganberry, the, 507 
Lonicera fragrantissima, 685; increas¬ 
ing, 144 

Maacki, 411, 617 
Loosestrife, the rosy. 167, 191 
Loquat fruiting, 534 
the, 452 

Lotus peliorrhynchus, lot), 224 
Love-birds with long beaks, 493 
Lueulia gratiasima, 671 
Pinceana, 671 
Lucuiias, 671 
Lungworts, the, 147 
Lupins failing, 218 
pruning, 451 
Lycicstes, 257 
Lychnises, 394 
Lygodium japotiicum, 040 
seandens, 522 
Lyre-flower, the, 600 
Lythrum rosetim, 320 
Salicaria car. roseum, 167 


I May, cut flowers for competition in, 
153 

Mazus Pumilio. 191 
the dwarf, 191 

Meadow land, old. cropping. 108 
Saffron, 566 

Sweet, the crisp leaved, 549 
Meal-worms. 558 

I Mealy-bug in orchard-house, 190 
on Plum-tree, 572 
on Vines, 9G 
the, 490 

Medlar jelly, 506 
Medlars, gathering, 180 
Megasea ligulata, 83 
Melon-planU cankering, 441 
seeds germinating, 480 
Melons, a trial of, 338 
canker in, 220, 327 
Cantaloup, 133 
early, 134 
growing, 346 
j in frames, 103. 174 
late, 491 

i part of a house of, 129 
the cultivation of. 129 
two good, 245 
without bottom-heat, 216 
i Mesembryanthemum floribundum, 422 
I Mespilus grandiflora, 341 
I Mezereon, the autumn-flowered, 008 
j Mice in garden, 44(5 
in vineries, 242 
Mildew in vinery, 376 
on Peaches. 248 
on Roses, 265. 308. 391 
on Vines, 168 

i Millipedes eating Strawberries. 280 
Millipede, the spotted snake, 180 
Miltonia Blunti Lubbcrsiana, 563 
Mimuluses. 144 

Mimulus luteus variegatus, o35 
; the, 335 

1 Mint-bed, making a, 600 
failing, 194 

I Mistakes in orchard planting, 491 
Mistletoe, about, 573 
j increasing the, 245 

Mite, Black Currant, 150, 640 
Mites in Oak-tree, 186 
Mock Oranges, 430 
the smaller, 291 
Monkey-flowers, 335 
Montanoa bipinnatiflda, 656 
! Montbretias, 256, 636 
Moon-flower, the. 80. 633 
Moriuu longifolia. 298 
Moschoema riparium, 245 
Moss in croquet-lawn, 558 
in lawn, 6, 100, 206, 489, 544 , 596 
litter manure, value of, 500 
on fruit-trees, 652 
Red-cup, 660 

Moth, the ermine, on Apple-trees, 241 
the pith. 245 
the swallow-tailed, 202 
Mountain Ash, 509, 574; fruiting 

branch of the, 509 
Mouse-ear Chick weed, 555 
Mulberry jelly, 427 
not fruiting. 106 
tree infested with ants, 368 
Musas from seed, raising, 4 
j Museari Heldreiehi, 123 
! Mushroom - bed, movable two-sided, 


M 


MAGGOT in Apples, 41C 
in Celery, 650 
the Onion, checking, 218 
Maggots on Roses, 86 
Magnolia bare at the bottom, 310 
conspicua, 1 
fuseata, 1 
glaiica, 1 

grandiflora, 1; pruning, 500; cutting 
back, 428 
Fraseri, 1 
Lennci, 177 
priming, 23 
rustica rubra, 201 
Soulangeana nigra, 90, 617 
stellatn, l, 95, 520 
the starry, 520 
W at son i, 1 

Magnolias at Bicton, Devon, 1 
increasing, 158, 232 
Maiden-hair Spleenwort, 294 
Mallow, 627 

the wTilte round-headed, 698 
MumLllaria, 12 
Mandevilla suareolens, 443 
Mandrake, the, in fruit, 346 
Manure for garden, 400 
Tonk'.s, 532, 632 

Manures and their application. 625 
artificial, using, 77 
for Potatoes, 51 
Maples, cutting back, 459' 

Japanese, In the greenhouse, 148 
Marunta Kerchovfana, 54 
zebrina, 462 

Marguerite Daisy-fly, the, 691 
spiders ou, 210 
keeping, 463 
aphides on, 302 
Margyricarpus setosus, 695 
Market garden notes, 575 
gardeners’ loss, 430 
growing, 372, 558 
Onions for, 640 

Martagon Lily, the scarlet, 334 
Maurandya BarcJaynna, 640 


beds, open-air, 873; small movable, 
against a wall, 28 
house, 482 

Mushrooms all the year, 28 
growing, 374 ; outdoors, 24 
on lawns, 482 
out-of-doors, 396 

under Elm-trees, are they poisonous? 
396 

Musk, the common, 544 
Mussel-scale, 114 
Mustard and Cress. 94 
growing for market, 693 
Mynah, Indian, death of, 231 
Myrtle-leaves, dirty, 586; falling, 118 
scale on, 126 
the, 497 

Myrtles, treatment of, 144 
Myrtus bullata, 497 
communis, 497 
fragrans, 497 
Ghekcn, 497 

Luma car. apiculala (syu. Eugenia 
apiculata ), 497 
tomentosH, 497 
Fgni, 497 


N 

MAMDIMA domestica, fruiting spray 
of, 43 

Narcissi, growth and increase of the 
rarer, 183 
the finer, 281 
under Elder, 882 
Narcissus, 821 
Count Visconti, 123 
Cremona, 353 
double white, failing, 178 
Eileen Mitchell, 555 
Loveliness, 33 

poeticus Epic, 527; p. The Bride, 
383 

nanus, 110 
Pheosant’a-eye, 517 
Pyramus, 147, __ 

Seraphim, 262 


URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


viii 


Nectarines decayed, 340 
Nectarine-trees gumming, 456 
Nelutnbiums in North Devon, 241 
Nemesia dying, 358 
Nepenthes Ruby. 656 
Nephrolepis exaltata and its vara., 
120; e. elegantissima, 77; e. I’icr- 
soni and N. e. todeuoides revert¬ 
ing. 175; e. superhissima, C04; e. 
todeaoides, 49; e. Whitm&nnii, 604 
plumose forms of, 102 
Nerine F. D. Godman, 656 
Purple Princess, 656 
Nests, hatching, 117 
Netting, preserving, 80 
New Zealand, seeds from, 20 
Nicotian a Sandcrre, 192 
Nicotine poisoning, 427 
Nierembergia fllicaulis, 255 
gracilis, 321 
Nigellas, the, 241 

Nightingale, Virginia, death of, 558 
Nitrate of soda as manure. 315 
on lawn, using, 83 
Nitrogen to the soil, adding. 78 
X ymphcea lucida. 623 


O 

OAK the Holm. 104 
tree, mites in, 166 
Obituary— 

James H. Veitch, 531 
Sir Thomas Hanbury, K.C.V.O., 
5:1 

S. 8. Goldsmith, 287 
Odontoglossum eitrosmum, 322 
crispum, 89, 423; and Oncidium vari- 
cosum. 582 

Elaine Golden Gan. 135 
grande, 521 
(Enothera, 596 
acaulls. 596 
cwspitosa, 590 
Druinmondi, 596 
fruticosa. 596 
glauca, 596 
Lamnrckiann, 596 
maerocarpa, 596 
nmrginatn, 590 
mLssoiiriensis, 596 
pumila, 596 
riparia, 596 
speciosa, 596 
turaxicifolia, 596 
Oleander not flowering. 427, 462 
Oleanders. 278 
Olearia Hausti, 94. 428 
Onion-bed, preparation of the, 27 
crop, the, 374 
fly, the, 317, 373 
mildew, 272, 680 
Rousham Park Hero, 694 
seed, saving, 430 
the. 545 

Wroxton Improved, 654 
Onions, 429. 481, 583 
bull-necked, 402 
cultivation of, 601 
diseased, 369 
for market. 640 
ground for, 24 
pickling, 515 
small, replanting, 397 
Onoclea sensibilis, 322 
Oriychium auratuin. 463 
japonicum (*yn. 0. luciduni), 463 
Onyehiums, 680 
Orache, 680 

Orange Hall-tree, the, 360 
Orunge-leaves dirty, 692 
Orange Lilies, failing, 203 
Oranges, seedling, 54, 652 
Orchard-house, 10; red-spider in. 548 
tree planting, mistakes in, 442 
Orchards, manuring of, 681 
Orchid names. 428 
Orchids at Weybridge, 102 
books on, 344 
cool, growing, 64 
growing, 433 

Orris-root, home-made. 200 
Osiers, the cultivation of, 250 
Overcrowding and its results, 123 
Oxails eornieulatu, 354 
Deppei, 353 
floribunda, 332 

Ozothammu rvsmurinijolius, 365 


p 


P.EOXIA decora Pallasii in Messrs. 
Barr and Sons' nursery, Thames 
DU ton, 225 
Emodi, 141 
Paonies, 422 
and Gypsophila, 369 
failing', 449 
feeding, 640 
herbaceous, 225 
not flowering, 231, 260 
single, 59 

Tree, for pot*, 431; from seed, 298 
Pseony, a new, 488 
a single, 59 
Progress, 263 
Solfaterre, 319 
Palm failing, 558 
.cal, ^ 440 


Palm unhealthy, 558, 666 
Palms In the house, 564 
losing their lower leaves, 118 
unhealthy, 182 
Pampas Grass, 54 
plumes, cutting, 506 
1 Pancratium .illyricum in pots, 614 
, maritimum, 400 

Pansies, faney, in the south, 167 
Tufted, a dozen good, 47; a simple 
method of increasing, 33; dying, 
367; failing, 215: grouping. 110; I 
hoeing between the, 225; in March ! 
and April, 167; increasing, 320; 
injured, 280; miniature-flowered, 
820; of lavender and kindred 
shades of colour, 179: picking off I 
spent blossoms of, 311: planting in j 
April, 140; preparing ground for i 
planting, 383; propagating in 1 
winter, 529; rayless versus rayed, 
3l2; seasonable work among, 239: 
the best, for the flower-garden, 
191, 226; twenty-five, for bedding, 
382 

Pansy, Tufted, Acme, 48; Ardwell 
Gem, 394; Bessie, 48: Cottage 
Maid, 48; Duricau, 47; Elsie May 
Cann, 48; Marian Waters. 48; Miss ! 
E. M. Camm, 321; Mrs. Chichester, 
47; Mrs. E. A. Cade. 47; Peace, 

47 : Primrose Dame. 47 ; seedlings, 
392; Swan, 47: White Empress, 48 
; Paradise-stock, the, 604 
grafting, 701 
Paraffin emulsion, 680 
Parrot ailing. 117, 171, 585 
death of, 399 
losing its feathers, 231 
moulting, 666 

Parrots, Chili-pods for, 157 
Parrotia persica, 503 
Parsley, 454 
for winter cutting, 402 
fungua on, 72 

planting out versus sowing. 24 
rotting in, 704 
Parsleys, 650 
Parsley-wort, a blue, 127 
Pasque-flower, the. 5 
Passion-flower failing, 506 
fruits for dessert. 441 
Paulownia imperials, 229 
Paronia intermedia kermesina, 645 
Makovana. 645 
Wfoti, 645 

1 Pavonias. the, 645 

Peach and Nectarine-bloom, thinning, 
i 154 

Barrington, 388, 415 
borders, early, renovation of. 507 
Early Alexander, 299 
Gladstone, 468 
growing on a wall, 438 
house, a cold, 37 
houses, work in, 326 
leaf-curl, 134 
leaf unhealthy. 288 
leaves blistered, 274; injured, 260 
Noblesse, 560 
Princess of W'afe*, 491 
Peaches and Almonds, flowering, forc¬ 
ing. 20 

ami Nectarines, thinning, 216; with 
unhealthy foliage, 196 . 

disbudding. 106 
diseased. 346 
early. 299 

for house growth, 3*8 
in cold-house, 502 
late, 587 
mildew on, 248 
open air, 548, 615 

outdoor standard, in a garden at 
Esher, Surrey, 501 
ripening, watering, 327 
stones, splitting in. 304, 480 
thinning, 174. 218 
two late, 452 
Peach-tree, a fine, 530 
care of the, 133 
dying. 243 
red-spider on. 479 
Peach-trees, 388 
ants on, 80 
aphides on, 274 
dying, 196 
old. 491, 576 
scale on, 456 
red spider on. 270 
unnailing, 701 
Pen Eureka, 356 
Quite Content, 817 
Superlative, 290 
The Daisy. 424. 654 
World’s Record, 290 
Peas, 374, 601 
und Beans injured, 180 
and greenfly, 28 
and Onions diseased, 206 
Everlasting. 422, 517 
excess of haulm in, 258 
good-flavoured, 28 
in a greenhouse, 342 
in trenches, 98 
large-podded, 284 
late autumn, 429 
not growing, 194 
soaking in paraffin, 290 
tall, 289 


Pea, the nearest approach to a primrose, 
311 

Peas. Sweet. 255, 312, 408, CbO 
and Beans too tall, 172 
dying off, 194 
for market, 382 
in winter, 224 

of fine quality, how to grow, 73 
preliminary work, 6 
raised in pots, hardening off, 123 
raising new varieties of, 310 ' 
some good, 427 
sowing, 704 
too many, 298 
Pear, a new, 134 
Alexandrine Mas, 643 
Belle Julie, 530 
Hergamotte d’Espferen, 681 
Beurre d’Aremherg, blit 
Beurrf Hardy, 13, 14 
bloom blackened, 172 
Duchesse de Bordeaux, 616 
Durondeau or du Congres, 560 
Emilie d’Heyst or Beurre d’E-pereii, 
548 

for name, 428, 452 
gnat-midge, the, 210 
Hessle, 547 

Josephine de Malines. 42 
leaf blister-mite. 150, 168, 174, 420; 

insects on, 344 
leaves injured, 586 
midge, the, 56, 210 
Youreau Poileau, 603 
Pitinuston Duchess, 576 
Princess, 588 
St. Luke, 682 
1 Pears, cordon, 30, 455, 015, 638; on 
wall. 576. treatment of, 65 
cracked. 288. 299. 346. 416 
dropping, 666 
failing. 172, 232, 582 
flavour in, 604, 644 
great for England, 13 
home-grown, 603 

late. 662; gathering und ripening, 
5U2 

some brightly-coloured, 41; good 
November, 458; late, 14 
spotted, 400 
stewing, 587, 688 
the keeping of. 9 
too many varieties of, 103 
Pear-tree blooming lor the third time 
in one year, 456 
fruitless, 106 
injury to, 275 
insects on, 368 
regrafting a, 529 

tree, standard, planted three years 
and slightly pruned. 701 
Pear-trees, overgrown, 274 
cordon on a high wall at Powis 
Castle, 455 

standard, pruning, 701 
stunted, 456 
Pearl Berry, the, 695 
Pelargonium cuttings. 406 
leaves unhealthy, 372 
name of, 440 

Zonal, Paul Cranipel in the green¬ 
house, 238; Reformntor, 325 
i Pelargoniums and Fuchsias, treatment 
of. 21 

cuttings of, 238 
failing. 531 
fancy, 124, 200 
for winter flowering. 274 
in pots, feeding, 372 
in winter, keeping, 506 
Ivy-leaved, 75, 14*; treatment of, 
471 

keeping. 406, 444 
old Ivy-leaved. 636 
show, exhibiting, 148 
striking in spring, 652 
unhealthy, 172, 666; leaves on, 131 
window, 572 

Zonal. 20, 592; failure of, 294, 824, 
380, 432: for winter flowering, 528: 
in winter, 510, 610; increasing, 
245 

Peutas carnea, 610 
Pentstemon, 81 
uzurcub, 82 
barbatue, 82 
campanuiatus, 82, 310 
Coboea, S3 
cyanaiithus, 82 

dillusus, 82 
glaber, 82 
glaucus, 82 
grandiflorus, 82 
Hartwegi, 82 
heteropnyllus, 62, 310 
humilis, 62 
Murrayanus, 82 
ovatus, 82 
Palmer!, 82 
procerus, 82, 214 
Scouleri, 63 
tubitiorus, 310 
PentsLemons, 335, 596 
from seed, 68, 640 
in the garden, 697 
three good. 310 
Pepper-bush, the, 449 
Perennials and biennials from seed, 
274 


Pergola in course of construction and 
before planting, 99 
in the old Capuchin Convent at 
Amalfi, Southern Italy, 139 
leading from entrance-court to lawn. 
78 

1 on rising ground, 581: built above 
dry static walls, 447 
Periwinkles, fungus on, 180 
Pernettyas, 573 
increasing, 572 

Persimmon, the Japanese, 158 
Pests, flower-garden, 642 
Pctasites fragrans, 660 
Petnra colubilis, 192 
Petunias, 660 

Phacelia cumpanulariu, 353 
Philadelphia, 260. 430 
coronarius, 271 
hirsutus, 430 

Phillyreas, insects on, 564 
Plilebodiums, 76 
Phlox urnu-na, 214 
Phloxes, loo 

Phormium tenax, hardiness of, 6 
Phygelius capensis, 4*8 
Phyllocactus, treatment of, 10G 
Physalis, 33 
Franehetti, 83 
the. or Bladder Cherry, 526 
Plcotee v. Carnation, 5si, 609 
Picture, u winter, 663 
Pigeon-manure, 4u 
Pigeons, food for, 273 
Pig manure, 606 

Pillars, plants for, 48; upon, 162 
Pine-shoots, injury to, 202 
trees, injured. 280 
weevil, the, 26 
Pines. 502 

moths injuring. 166 
Pink, the Fire, 240 
Pinks. 256 
dividing, 427 
the garden, 332 
treatment of, 262 
Pinguicula caudata, 1*1 
Piptantbus nepalensis. 172 
Pits and frames, 108 
Place*, bare, under trees, clothing, 323 
Plane-leaves diseased, 291 
Plant, a desirable hardy foliage, 2*4 
border, hardy, 436 
for bower, 40 
for large pot. 427 
for north wall. 075 
for |K)iid, 283 

grouping in Regent s Park. 3 
houses, the cleaning of, 50 
what is a herbaceousV 448 
Plants, a group of ftne-foliaqed and 
flowering, in Regent’s Park, 5 
beauty of the stems of, 647 
climbing, for securing shade, 367: 
tor stove fernery, 497; In green¬ 
house, 4 

creeping, injured by galvanised wire, 
44 

edging, 54 
failing, 262 

failure of, 152; hardy, 178 
fine-foliaged, for the summer, 102; 
in an Irish gardeu, 407 ; in a moist 
corner, 047 

flowering in conservatory first week 
in May, 50 

for u covered-in ditch, 106 
for a garden vase. 140 
for a walled-in garden, 106 
for bank, 245 
for baskets, 68 
for bed, 413, 437 
for l>og garden, 167 
for border, 68. 479, 027 
for carpet, 408; bedding, 206 
for cold-house, 451, 558, 592 
for damp soil, 68; corner, 194 
fur edging. 7 
for fountain basin, 413 
for furnishing, 224 
for inside rockery, 54 
for marshy ground, 488 
for oblong beds, 628 
for October flowering, 56 
for pillars. 48 
for poor soil, 636 
for rockery, 26 
for rough walls, 383 
for shaded border, 2 
for shaded rock garden, 54 
for spring bedding, 213 
for table, 7; decoration at Christ¬ 
inas, 564 

for the early autumn, 307 
for vases, 118 
for wall. 140 

for window -lKJx in shade, 652 
for window-case, 68 
for winter blooming, 362 
from frame to greenhouse, moving, 
444 

from seed for rook work, 596 
fungoid growth on, 150 
greenhouse, 572: in flower, 462; in 
poor condition, 50 
grouping, 609 

groups of hardy flne-foliaged in Mr. 

Smith's nursery at Xewrp, 647 
grubs injuring, 202 
hardy, dividing and relabelling, 609; 
ftne-foliaged, 661; for a town gar¬ 
den, 60; for indoor blooming, 380; 
mixed borders of, 298; top-dress- 
divid- 


lProgr 

LiOogre 


three good, 424 

Pea, Sweet, Gladys Unwin, 313 
in America, 82 
rogress, 566 

g seed of, 240 


from seed, 26, 386: raising, 
sowing seeds of. 312 
to bloom in June, 358 
to grow at Hyeres, 111 
Pergola at St. Ann's, Clontarj 
building a, 18 


^ERSITS|;Qt : fmfrofS 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 





GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


ix 


Plants, herbaceous, cutting dow n, 448; 
from seed, 652 
in had health, 361 
in boxes, pots, etc., mulching, 224 
in cool conservatory, growing, 045 
in cottage windows' 188 
in country windows, 35 
in the greenhouse, grouping, 444 
in the house, 102 
in the spare room. 458 
in wood, 366 

Increasing bedding. 256 
India-rubber, in a room. 627 
into bloom, forcing, 112 
mixed border, the most beautiful, 

540 

names and descriptions of, 163 

new hardy, 506 

on lawns, 704 

overfeeding, 112 

pillar for the greenhouse, 124 

pot. feeding, 137 

potting, 232 

removing, 691 

repotting. 163 

rockwork and frost, 674 

simple vase, 310 

spring and summer flowering, from 
seed, 140 

stove-flowering, for succession, 405; 
greenhouse, new and uncommon, 
655 

summer bedding, 354: flowering, in 
the Grass, 61 

sweet-scented, for the greenhouse, 2 
table. 63 

tender, in the south-west, 29, 43 
treatment of flne-foliaged, in a 
house, 512 

under Fir-trees, 283; greenhouse 
stage, 68, 106; Sycamore, 382 
upon pillars, 162 
w atering, 578 

vateraide, at Ashbourne, Cork, 621 
window. 127. 676; for autumn, 224; 
in winter, 538; watering, 237; worm 
attacking, 446 

winter blooming. 552: salad. 683 
wintering, and plants for decora¬ 
tion. 578 

Plum and Apple-leaves unhealthy, 276 
and Cherry-trees green and black-fly 
on. 652 

Coe’s Golden Drop. 534 
crop, the, 507 
Denniston's Superb. 438 
Early Transparent Gage, 442 
Goliath, 9' 

Late Orange, 508 
Monarch, 560 
Onllin's Golden Gage, 468 
President, 468 
the latest—Wyedale, 508 
Victoria diseased, 400; not fruiting, 
245 

Wyedale, 548 
Plums cracking, 372, 506 
dropping, 3SS 
English versus foreign, 387 
failing. 388 
gumming. 400 
market, 360 
notes on. 415 
some la to, 467 
Plum-tree, aphides on, 264 
carrying a second crop. 491 
green-fly on, 372 
mealy-bug on, 572 
scale on, 586 
silver-leaf in, 202 
Victoria dying. 520 
Plum-trees gumming, 375 
silver-leaf in, 292, 360 
unhealthy, 292 

Plumbago eapensis, pruning. 517 
Larpenta?, 5 

treatment of, 3S6, 518, 544 
Plumbagos, 610 
Poinciana regia, 124 
Poisons Hill, the, 26 
Polyanthuses, 139, 16G 
at Forde Abbey, 190 
Polyanthus Narcissus, 400 
Polygonum capitalum, 567 
cnspidnturn compact um, 5 
Sicboldi. 648 

Polystachya odorata, 624 
Polystiehum aeuleatum pulcherrinnim 
Drueryi, 604 

angulare la.rum (Jones), 637 
Pomegranate, the dwarf, 491 
Pond-mud, 400; utilisation of, 585 
or bog-garden, 263 
plant for, 2*3 
puddling, a, 288 
weed in, 302 
Ponds, slime on. 190 
Poplar Parasol de St. Julien. 95 
Poppies. Iceland, 237 , 354. 590: in the 
room. 127 

the Shirley, 265. 312 
Poppy, the Prickly, 01 
Potato American or Early Rose, 142 
Blue Giant, 10 
crop, the, 272, 396 
Duchess of Cornwall, 476 
Early Rose. 108 
Express, 289 
ground, manuring. 652 
growing, 693; in Yorkshire. 159. 183 


Potato tubers, unripe, 317 
Lp-to-Date, 683 
Potatoes, 208, 453 

Duchess of Albany and Factor, 502 

first early or second early, 614 

Iore in g, 66, 519 

for planting, 650 

for quality, 94 

grub eaten, 374 

insects in. 356 

Irish seed, in England. 678 

late sprouting, 365 

planting, 694; on dirty ground, 200 

restful, 98 

Scotch, English, and Irish, 258 
seed, 502; immature, 66; prepara¬ 
tion of, 583 
soil for, 546 
too much alike, 354 
winter-rot of, 434 
Pot-pourri making, 288 
Poultry at the Dairy Show, 493 
some hints on housing, 627' 

Powis Castle, borders of hardy ftmrers 
on a terrace at, 473 
Primroses, 60, 189 
and Daffodils under Firs, 358 
double, reversion in, 111 
i Evening, 596 
from seed, 202 
hardy, 355 
in frames, 635 
reversion in. 145 
Primrose, the Bird's-eye, 19 
the margined, 567 
Primula Brilliant King, 655 
Chinese Giant Pink, 57 
Cockburniuna, 666 
faiinosa, 19 

juponicu, 100, 699; alba in the gar¬ 
den at Mount Usher, 699 
Kewensis, increasing, 634 
Sicboldi, 226, 332; riot flowering, 192 
I sinensis The Duchess, 50 

the double-flowered Chinese, 700 
Unique, 656 
verticillata, 88 
Primulas, 552 
at Reading, 57 
Chinese, 552 
failing, 646 

seedling, picking out the blooms of, 
354 

Star, for cutting, 127 
j Privet hedge, cutting hack, 506 
] Problem, dealing with a serious, 583 
Propagators, greenhouse, 510 
Prophet-flower, the, 182 
Protection, 475 

Pruning and transplanting, 95 
after summer, 410 
ruinous, 559, 603 
summer, 195 

| Prunus Amygdalus macrocarpa. 291 
I cerasifcra pendula, 70 
Davidiana, 1 , 70 
divaricata, 7rt 
family, the, 70 
japonica, 70 
Mahaleb, 70 
nana, 70 
pendula, 70 
Piasardi, 376 

pseudo-Cerasus, 70; p.-C. luteo 

fiore-pleno, 209 
serrulata, 70 
triloba, 70 

I Pseudomonas campestris, 446 
Pteris argyrea, 434 
fronds, thrips on, 344 
nobilis, 434 

Reginas 434; R. cristata, 434 
tricolor, 433 
Victoria?, 434 
Pulmonaria, 147 
nrvernensis, 147 
officinalis, 147 
saccharata, 147 

Pyrethrum, single. Brother John, 153 
Pyrethruros, 153 
planting, 704 

coronaria, 227; c. ft.-pi., 229 
japonica failing to bloom. 126; in¬ 
creasing. 132; j. Simoni, 641 
Mains florihunda. 608 
Tschonoaki. 185 
vestita, 617 

Pyrus Aucuparia, fruiting branch of 
the, 509 
llalliana, 235 

Sorbus, fruiting branch of the, 574 
tormhialis, fruiting and flowering 
branches of, 574 

, Pyruses, two rich-coloured, 177 


Q 

OUAMA8H. 496 

Quercus Ilex, 104 
Quick-hedge, 400 


R 


manures, 545 
Midlothian Early, 234 
Ninetyfold. 290 
Snowdrop, 142, 208 
top® 


drop, 142, 208 s- -> ariplexieaulis, 61 

dlw W3ltlSy by VjCK >QTC" “ ft 


BABBITS and hardy plants. 506 
Ranunculus alpinus, 5 
" ' ' " 698 

fertiliser, 328 


Raspberries, 442, 702 
autumn fruiting, 662 
fuiling, 26o, 470 
in poor condition, 270, 304 
Raspberry Baumforth's Seedling, 360 
bed, making a, 360 
beetle, the, 186 9 

canes, cutting down. 68; cutting out 
old, 134; pruning, 129, 328. 440 
crop, the, 388 
failing, 260, 470 
moth, the, 134 
Rats and bulbs, 531 
method of destroying. 541 
Red-mites on canary, 557 
Red-spider in orchard-house, 548 
on Violets, 479 

Refuse, the, of the garden, 421 
Rhamnus Alaternus l'crrieri, 152 
Rhododendron ameenum Hexe, 656 
unthopouon, 23 
Anthony Waterer, 641 
arboreuin, 249 
Duke of Cornwall, 641 
ferrugineum, 23 
Forsterianum, 136 
gla tic urn, 23 

Griltithianum, some little known 
hybrids of, 163 
hirsutum, 23, 95 
in bad condition, 126 
intricatum, 641 
lepidotvm, 23 
Kewense, 641 

Lady Alice Fitzwilliam, 506 
retusum, 381 
Rhodora, 169 

Rhododendrons; A long season, 810 
alpine, 23 
and Lilies, 647 
at the Temple Show, 209 
effects of soil on, 271 
moving. 440 
pruning, 118 
twelve good, 558 

under Fir-trees at Fori granite, Co. 

Wicklow, 007 
under Pines. 607 
Rhodotypos, 95 
R.H.S. Hall, letting the, 531 
Rhubarb, about, 234 
colour in, 207 
forcing. 397, 58G, 084 
for exhibition in August, 132 
from seed, 285 
roots after forcing, 40 
Rhus Cot intis, 347 
Kibes sang nine urn, 235 
Richardia rcthiopica diseased, 577. 620 , 
670 

Road, hiding a public, 589 
Rock Cresses, purple, 165 
garden and pond, 226; shaded plants 
for, 54 

Rockery bank, a, 140 
plants for, 26 
Rockets, double, 179, 698 
double white, 355 
Rockfoil Burner's var. Glory, 141 
the Great-learcd, in Daisy Hill 
Nursery, at Newry, 699 
the Ivy-leaved, 59 
the Nepaul, 83 

Rockspray, plumy, in rocky quarry at 
Ashbourne, Glounthaune, 685 
Romneya Coulteri, 674 ; in a Cornish 
garden, 437; in Co. Wicklow, 408; 
planting, 315 
insects destroying, 427 
Rondeletia speciosa major. 349 
Room, the advantage of, 608 
Root crops, raising, 454; the, 482 
lifting, 409 
Rosa altaica, 508 
hracteata, 363 
Hugonis, 221 

macrantha, 268, 417; flowering shoot 
of, 417 

Polyantha, Aenncken Miiller. 149; 
Aschenbrodel, 222 

rugosa Conrad F. Meyer, 305; on 
Grass, 30 

sericea pteracantha, 176 
sinica Anemone, 221, 268; in Mr. 
Woodall’s garden at Nice, 221; on 
a wall, 288 
Soulieana, 512 

Rose, a beautiful new Rambler, 119 
a fine decorative, 386 
a golden pillar. 230 
A. K. Williams, 268. 512 
a pretty China. 254 
Aenncken Mtiller, 170 
Aglaia not flowering, 176 
Alice Hamilton, 485 
Alice Liudsell, 278 
Allister Stella Gray, 211 
A mad is, 268 
Anne Leygurs, 176 
Antoine Rivoire, 278 
Ards Pillar. 2.54 
Arethusn, 485 
Armosa or Hermosa, 254 
Austrian Yellow, 46 
Banksian, not blooming, 418 
Bardou Job, 267 

Baronin Armguard von Biel, 86, 161. 
302 

Baronne Piston de St. Cyr, 851, 485 
bed, carpeting a, 436; planting. 440 
Ben Cant, 268 
Berthe Kleman, 170 
Bessie Brown, 278 
Betty. 86. 278, 295, 300 
Betty Berkeley, 485 
Blanche Moreau, 696 


Rose blooms rotting on the trees, 328 
buds, 245; eaten by insects, 260 
bushes at Easter, removing, 63; 
autumn pruning of, 418; black 
spot on, 418; growths on, 631 
Canariennvogel. 300 
Captain Hayward, 268 
Caroline Testout, 278; and some or 
its descendants. 551 
Celia, SC, 1C2, 351, 677 
Celine Forestier, 352 
chafer, the, 280 
Charlotte Klernni. 485 
Chns. Lefebvre, 268 
Cheshunt Hybrid, 677 
C. J. Graham, 80, 278, 205 
Claire Jacquier, 187, 211 
Climbing Devoniensis on arches, 62; 
Frau Karl Druschki, 258; on green¬ 
house wall, 131; Souvenir de Mai- 
maison, 306; White Mnman 
Cochet, 212 

combination for an arch, a pretty, 
187 

Comtesae de Cayla, 485 
Comtesse de M nr in a is. 096 
Comtesse de Nadaillac failing to 
develop, 266 

Com tease de Rnimhuud. 268 
Comtesse de Saxe, 63, 86 
Corona, 296 

Countess of Annesley, 85, 161, 296 
Countess of Derby, 86, 161 
Countess of Gosford, SC, 162, 296 
Countess of Oxford, 593 
Crepuacule, 377 
Crimson Crown, 162 
Crimson Globe, 696 
Crimson Queen, 593 
Crimson Rambler budded on a 
Banksian, 436; failing, 296: from 
cuttings, 253; mildew on. 268 
Cumberland Belle, 696 
cuttings, 435 
David Gordon, 176 
David R, Williamson, 176 
Dean Hole, 85, 278 
Debutante, 386 
de Meaux on wall, 199 
Devoniensis, 149 
Direcktor W. Cordes, 86 
Dora, 86, 162 

Dorothy Perkins, 337; as a short 
standard, 305; on poles, trees, etc., 
378 

Dr. J. Campbell Hall, 85. 212, 278 
Dr. William Gordon, 86. 593, 677 
Duke of Wellington, 268 
Earl of Dufferin, 268 
Karl of Warwick, 86. 296. 403 
Edmond Proust, 327 
Edu Meyer, 162, 548 
England's Glory, 268 
Etoile de France, 392 
failing, 302, 466 
F61icite-Perp6tue, 212 
Fisher Holmes, 268 
Florence Pemberton. 278. 306 
Florence Tron, 176, 377 
floribunda, 457 

foliage, black-blotch on. 236: un¬ 
healthy, 368 

Fortune’s Yellow, treatment of, 198 
Francois Crousse, 149, 270 
Frau Ernst Borsig, 677 
Frau Karl Druschki, 593 
Friquet-, 391 

Gabrielle Pierrette, 458 
Gardenia, 254 
gardens, municipal, 696 
General Macarthur. 102, 364 
Gloire des Rosomanes, 500 
Goldfinch, 211, 295 
Grace Darling, 237 
gracilis, 090 

Grossherzogin Alexandra, 80, 1C2 
Grus an Teplitz, 364 
Gustave Grunerwnld, 187, 279 

H. Army tape Moore, 162 
Harry Kirk, 162, 676 
hedges, 8 

Herrero Trotha, 176 
Hiawatha, 176 
Hon. Ina Bingham, 162 
Horace Vernet, 268 
Hugh Dickson, 85, 268, 295, 300, 503 
Hugo Roller, 3G3 
in poor condition, 12 
Irene, 551 
Irish Beauty, 267 
Irish Elegance, 267 
Irish Engineer, 267 
Irish Glory, 267 
Irish Harmony, 267 
J. B. Clark, 85, 103, 162, 279 
Jean Bach Sisley, 485 
Jenny Gillemot. 162 
Jersey Beauty, 446 
Joseph Billiard, 176 
Joseph Hill, 86, 279, 305 
Joseph Lowe, 205 
Kathleen, 176 
Kiilarney, 279 
Konigin Carola, 445 
Konigiu Wilhelmina, 149, 162 
Lady Ash town, 85, 279 
Lady Battersea, 295 
Lady Calmouth, 677 
Lady Gay, 535 
Lady Helen Vincent, 676 
Lady Moyra Beauclerc, 326 
Lady Penzance. 268 
Lady Quartus Ewart. 162 
i Lady Rossmore, 86. 162 
Lady Sarah Wilson. 252 

I, :Mv Witirlow, 254 


URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Rose Lit France, 279 
La Tosca, 364; group of, with 
Clematis (Sussex), 469; in autumn, 
469 

Laurent Carle, 677 
leaf unhealthy, 417 
leaves curling, 260; damaged, 80; 
fungus on. 868; orange-fungus on, 
419; unhealthy, 288 
Lena, 46, 176, 677 
Leonie Lamesch, 254 
Le Progr&s, 266, 279 
Lina Schmidt Michel, 162, 26.8 
Little Gem, 696 
Lohengrin, 102 
Louis Chabrier, 485 
Louis Van Houtte, 268, 470 
Liieien de Lemos. 162 
Maharajah, 268 
Mamun Levavasseur. 199 
Marchione** of Londonderry, 593 
Marshal Niel cankered, 199, 245; 
flowering .summer and autumn, 
451; on own roots, 149; planting 
out, 131: pruning, 518; stocks for. 
222; under glass, 486. 631 
Margaret Dickson, 577 ; as a 
standard, 138, 176 
Marichu Layas, 677 
Marquise de Salisbury, 863 
Marquise de Sinety, 162, 676; in the 
forcing-house, 534 
Marquise Litta, 279 
Martha. 176 

Melanie Soupert, 296, 076 
M. H. Walsh, 176 
Mignonette, 254 
mildew on. 279 
Mildred Grant, 279 
Mile. Simone Beaumez, 391 
Mine. Abel Chatenay, 279 
Mine. Berard, 254 
Mme. Berkeley, 391 
Mme. Constant Soupert, 85, ]70, 296, 
676 

Mine. Ernestine Verifier, 337 
Mine. Engine Fremy, 593 
Mme. Gnmoni 176 
Mme. Helen Gambier, 657 
Mme. Hoste, 290 
Mme. Jenny Qillemot, 326 
Mme. Leon Pain, 364 
Mme. Maurice Douay, 170 
Mme. Melanie Soupert, 15, 162 
Mme. Mina Barbamon, 611 
Mine. Pierre Oger, 254, 377 
Mme. Pol. Varin-Bernier, 512, 677 
Mme. Kavary, 279 
Mme. Simone Beaumez, 162 
Mohrenkoenig, 162, 222 
M or gen rot h, 268 
Mrs. Aaron Ward, 676 
Mrs. Conway Jones, 45, 279 
Mrs. David McKee, 161, 270 
Mrs. E. G. Hill, 162, 677 
Mrs. Harvey Thomas, 162 
Mrs. Isabella Milner, 511 
Mrs. Jus. Bateman, 162 
Mrs. Myles Kennedy, 85, 176, 295 
Mrs. J. W. Buddie, 676 
Mrs. J. W. Grant, 279 
Mrs. O. G. Orpen, 268 
Mrs. Peter Blair, 162, 176 
Mrs. Theodore Roosevelt, 86, 296, 377 
Mrs. W. H. Cut bush, 176 
names, 236 
name wanted, 16, 46 
Nelly Johnstone, 176 
Niphetos in greenhouse, 657; planted 
out, 150 

Noella Nabonnand, 237 
notes, 485 

Oberhofgartner A. Singer, 115, 176, 
632 

Oberhofgartner Terks, 86. 296 
of Sharon, the, 824 
old Common Moss, 696 
Paul Lede, 268 
Paul Transon, 170 
Peggy, 162 

Perle des Jauiies, 138 
pests, 237 
Petrus Douzel, 485 
Pharisaer, 85, 279 
Philadelphia Rambler, 212 
Pie X., 162 

pink, for grouping, 500 
plant dying, 290 

plants, old, grafting under glass, 
30; old, replanting, 524 
Pride of Waltham, 593 
Prince Arthur, 268 
Prince C. de Rohan, foliage of, 427 
Prince de Bulgarie, 279 
Psyche, 435 

Queen of Spain, 86, 162, 187 , 295 
red, failing to open, 206 
red Gloire de Dijon failing to bloom, 
328 

Ri iiie Marie Henriette, 524 
Rev. Alan Cheales, 593 
Reynolds Hole, 268 
Richmond, 138, 162, 221, 279 
Robert Scot, 279 
roots, worm on, 564 
Rosomane E. P. Roussel, 676 
Rubin, mildewed, 199 
Ruby Queen, 237 
rust. 891 

Sehneewlttchen, 445 
seed, 458 

Senateur Belle, 176 


Rose Society. National, autumn show 
of, 417 

Sophia King, 392 

Souvenir de Maria de Zayas, 162 
Souvenir de Marie Zozoyn, 86 
Souvenir de President Carnot. 279 
Souv%iir de Rose Vilin, 162 
Souvenir de Win. Robinson. 392 
Souvenir of Stella Clrav. 676 
Starlight, 689 
stocks, 63 

Sultan of Zanzibar, 268 
Tandscheuson, 176 
the Altai Burnet, 568 
the Austrian Yellow. 268 
the Crested Moss, 696 
The Dandy, 162 
the Macartney, 363 
to name, 158 

t'-ees, caterpillars on. 420; mealy¬ 
bug on, 470 
Una, 268 

IJnermudliche, 485 
unhealthy, 302 
Venus, 696 

Vieomtesse R. de Savigny, 149 
Victor Hugo, 268 
Viscountess Folkestone, 253, 279 
Warrior, 162, 677 

White Baroness, 305; Bath. 69n. 
Lady, 279 

Rambler not flowering, 466 
Waltham Rambler, 631 
wild, growths on. 252 
Win. Allen Richardson, 336 
Wm. Shean, 85, 162, 295, 677 
Xavier Olibo, 236, 268, 296. 306, 337 
Zenobia, 696 

Roses Aglaia and Electra, 254 
and Clematis for arch, 403 
ut exhibitions, 500 
at the Temple Show, 198 
Banksiun, 230; pruning, 358 
beautiful Brier, 352 
Beryl and Lady Mary Corry, 391 
best eighteen exhibition, 451 
black spot on, 418 
book on, 544 

budding, 266; versus grafting, 176 
bush, distance to plant, 158 
China and Polyant ha, forcing, 306 
classing, 458 

climbing, for handles of baskets, 26; 
for mild climates, 76; for rustic 
fence, 403; not flowering, 12; prun¬ 
ing, 691 ; pruning at time of plant¬ 
ing. 640: pruning the first year, 
8; Tea, for greenhouse. 46 
Crimson Chinu, 306; for bedding, 
378 

dark coloured, 268 
exhibiting, 138 

exhibition, disbudding. 254; shading, 
288 

failing, 330, 868 

for border, 512; under west wall, 
352 

for button-holes, 3.% 
forced, cool-house for, 119; pruning. 
315 

for conservatory wall, 535 
for cutting, 594 

for exhibition, 115; manuring, 470 
for forcing, 457 
for London .suburb, 418 
for market from a pergola, 639 
for new bed, 315, 446 
for pegging down in a long border, 
372 

for pergola, 372, 466 

for pillars, 302 

for Scotch garden, 279 

for screens, 593 

for south border, 400 

for verandah, 400 

for wall, 418; of church, 632 

for walls and borders, 418 

for west wall, 305, 400 

free-flowering H.P., 077 

from cuttings, 115, 531 

from seed, 8 

grafting, 696 

greenfly on, 446 

grown as shrubs, manuring, 86 

hybridising, 524 

Hybrid Perpetual, 15; as wall 
climbers, 86 

Hybrid Tea and Tea, a defect in 
certain, 352; scented, 278; under 
glass, 657 

in a light soil, 403 
in a London garden, 377 
in a vase, 649 
in Belgian garden, 296 
in cold greenhouse, 413 
in pots, Oil, 657 

in the open air at Christmas, 619 
in vinery, 577 
in water, striking, 302 
labelling, 632 

large-flowered Hybrid Perpetual, 593 
late-flowering climbing and pillar, 
524 

long-hudded, 149 
maggots on, 86 

mildewed, 162, 265, 308, 328, 391, 418 
Monthly, as edging to grave, 45 
more new, 176 

Moss, 696; pruning. 218; the growth 
of. 182 

new, at the Botanic Gardens, 295 
new, worth growing. 161 


Senateur St. Romxne, 86, 162 
shoots damaged by insects, 245; in 
jured, 86 

show, the autumn, 44§ . x 

Digitizes by UQU 


■ not moo 

"Go* 'gltr 


newly-planted, mulching and prun¬ 
ing, 535 

not blooming, 568 
QfUohor, 469 


I 


Roses of even growth for a bed. 417 
on bnllooti trellis, 8 
on east wall, planting, 306 
on house, 551 
on old trees. 632 
on own roots. 344 
on pillars. 524 
orange fungus on, 202 
ordering, 392 

own root for pot-culture. 30: for 
pots, 76; packing for India, 387 
Perpetual dwarf hybrid for forcing, 
611; flowering, for trailing, 26 
pillar, 568 

|K)t, 8, 62; planting, 138; that have 
flowered, planting out, 158 
potted in November, pruning, 658 
pruning, 02, 457; Hybrid Perpetual, 
632; newly-planted, 30 
raised from cuttings, 500 
Rambler, after flowering, 337, 352; 
iron versus wood as supports for. 
296; overgrown, 658; potting, 106; 
pruning, 30, 296 

scarlet, red, and dark H.P., 326 
seasonable notes, no. 211, 619 
single and semi-double, 267, 569 
six good, for button-holes, 600 
some good novelties for exhibition, 
85 

some good, to grow' as standards, 
577 

some novelties of merit for the forc¬ 
ing-house, 676 

some old, worth growing. 222 
some recent or uncommon Monthly, 
485 

stems of, eaten by insects, 387 
sweet-scented, for the forcing- 
house, 138 

Tea, for exhibition, 236, 274; in 
October, 500; planted out, '336; 
staging ut an exhibition, 274 
the best for forcing, 391 
the eighteen best exhibition, 689 
the finest for effect in the garden, 
511 

two charming button-hole, 306 
under glass, 45, 446, 619 
various pruning, 45, 446 
with green centres, 260 
Rose, Christmas, 495, 621 ; in July, 697; 

fungus on, 434; planting. 60 
Roup in fow ls, 79, 117 
Itubus bambusarum, 641 
platyphyllus, 104 
Rudbeckia, 298 
Rust on Grapes, 216 


s 

SAOZTTARIA, 31 

japoniea, 31; fl.-pl., 81 
maorophylla, 31 
montevidensis, 31 
nutans, 31 
sagittifoliu, 31 
cariabilis fl.-pl., SI 
St. John's Wort, the, 685 
St. Mark’s fly, the, 187 
Saintpaulia ionantha, increasing, 652 
Salads for winter. 454 
SalpiglossU grown in colours, 437 
the, 283 

Salsafy diseased, 328 
growing, 80 

Salvia gesnerefloru, 164 
splendens, 131, 224 

patens after flowering, treatment of, 
567; part of a flowering shoot of, 
527 

Tenorci, 255 
Zurich, 674 

Sanseviera zeylanica, 74 
Satin-flower, the Spring, 473 
Sauromatum guttatum in the open, 
312 

Savoys, 476 
Sawdust manure, 260 
Saxifraga Aizoon rosea, 240 
apieulatu, 100 
Boydi alba, 333 
Burseriana, 110 
caesia, 833 

cochlearis minor, 833 
Cotyledon, 278 
Cymbal aria, 59 
lantoscana, 334 
juniperina, 686 

peltata in Daisy Hill Nursery at 
Newry, 699 
Rochelina, 383 
scardica, 334 
Solomoni, 334 
Valdensis, 833, 334 
Vandelli, 334 

Saxifrage, the Juniper, 636 
Saxifrages, some white-flowered en¬ 
crusted, 333 

Scabiosa caucasica alba, flowers of, 71 
Scabious. 71 
Sea biouses, 334 
Scale on Ferns, 542 


Hcolopendrium vulgare, 322 
Sea Hollies. 354 
Seakale, 542, 583 
culture of, 66 
for small growers, 629 
Season, hints for the sunless. 345 
Seeds and seed-sowing, 690 
in boxes, not growing, 131 
in penny packet s A 660 
from New Zealand, riming, 4, 20 
old, 534 

Selaginella Kmilliana, 112 
Selaginellas, 563 , 

Sempervivum araehnoideum, 392; a. 
Laggeri, 392; a. ruhnim, 392; a. 
vars., 392 
Hookeri, 392 
Senecio Clivorum, 496 
Senna the Scorpion, 623 
Service-tree, fruiting branch of the 
true, 574 ; the wild, flowering and 
fruiting branches of, 574 
Service-trees, the true and wild, 574 
Shallots, 342 
growing, 80 

in bunches, exhibiting. 424 
turning yellow, 194 
Shot-hole fungus, 446 
Shrubberies, outlines to,.309 
Shrubs and plants, fragrant. 503 
berried, 573 
berry-bearing, 520 

by root-cuttings, propagating, 201 
evergreen, propagating, 425 
flowering, for cutting, 188 ; for south¬ 
west Ireland, 608; how they have 
wintered in Sussex, 89; in pots, 
priming, 206 
for background, 411 
forced in the greenhouse at Kcw, 
58 

forcing, 509 
for seaside, 685 
in pots, notes on, 112 
propagating, 503 

pruning, 324; and clipping, 210; 

newly-planted, 56 
robber, 152 
seaside, 607 

three good winter-flowering, 1 
under trees. 2, 12 
unmutilated, 608 
watering. 94 
winter flowering, 641 
Sidalcea Candida, 698 
Silene virginica, 240 
Sisyrinchium grandiflorum. 473 
Skimmia, 574 
Skirret, 692 
Slime on ponds, 19o 
Slugs, a plague of, 194 
destroying, 106, 178, 210. 280. 808 
Smilax ornatus, 281 
Smut on leaves, 274 
Snail-slug, the, 88 
Snake-millipedes, 44 
Snake's-head Frit ill ary, 855 
the white, 855 
Snapdragons, 240, 298 
Snowberry, the, 169 
Snowflake, the autumn, 489 
Societies— 

Royal Horticultural, 301. 327, 857, 
385 , 413, 439 . 465, 493, 544 . 571, 613, 
639, 665, 691 

United Horticultural and Benefit 
Provident. 26, 273, 505 
Soil,clay,dealing with, 339: improving, 
506; trenching, 142 
damp, plants for, 68 
heavy, improving, 454 
Soils, improving, 569 
Solanum capsicastrum, 7no 
cornigerum, 101 
crispum, 101 

jasminoides, 101 ; pale-blue form, 2 
pensile, 101 
platense, 101 
Seaforthianum, 101 
trilobatum, 101 
Wendlandi, 101, 308 
Sol an urns, 634 
climbing. 101 
Soot for tennis-lawn, 666 
value of, 278 
Sophora japoniea, 185 
macrocarpa, 185 
secundiflora, 185 
tetraptera, 185 
viciifolia, 185, 271 
Sophronitis grandiflora, 490 
Southseu, a note from, 100 
Sparaxis pulcherrima, 197 
Sparmannia afrieana, 245 
Sparrows destroying Wistaria, 169 
! Spartium junceum, 324, 348 
Spiders ou Marguerite, 210 
Kpiderwort, the blue, 421 
Spinach, 342, 684 
I Beet, 10 

I Spirant Anthony Waterer, 397 
aritefolia, 334 
Aruncus, 687 
bracteata, 663 
bullata, 549 
confusa, 271 


on Palm, 440 
on Plum-tree, 586 
Scarborough Lily, the, 301, 380 
Scent-making, flowers, for. growing, 

514 

Schedules, local, 104 

Schombnrglcia Kimballiana rhionodora, 

Scilly Islands, spring flowers from the,, i 

UNlVtRS 


japoniea and its varieties, f>90 
palmata alba in Mr. T. Smith's 
■ nursery at Newry, 673; and vars., 
673 

SpLrieas and Deutzias, 231 
for forcing, 164, 580 
herbaceous, 686 
treatment of. 274 
..two beautiful new, 200 
Spleenwort, the Wall Rue, 269 


URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 






GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


XI 


flt&chya tuberifera, C4u 
Star-flower, the spring, 520 
Marwort, a pretty early, 448 
SUrwort*, 478 
Staliee latifolia, 354, 437 
Stenanthium robustum, 614 
stenotaphrum glabruin, 646 
Stephunotis, cutting back, 691 
fioribunda in u greenhouse. 86 
newly •potted, treatment of, 54 
Sternbergia, 214 
cokhieiflora, 214 
FUcheriana, 214 
iutea, 214 
macrantha, 214 
sicula, 214 

Stocks, Brompton, 215, 256 
dying. 252 
East Lothian, 12 
Paradise, grafting. 701 
Strawberries, 195, 455 
current work among, 529 
failing, 269 
forced, failing, 220 
in casks, growing, 41 
in pots, 65 

layering and potting, 219 
mildewed, 340 
mildew on forced, 174 
mulching, 134 
on early borders, 36U 
on light soil, 340 
perpetual, 559 
ripe, packing, 242 
Strawberry-bed, pests of the, 338 
culture, notes on, 410 
Fill basket, 339 
tiivou’s Prolific, 248 
Kentish Favourite, 248 
plantations, making new, 247 
planting, 360 

plants blind. 172, 220: failing, 104 
The Laxton for forcing, 65 
trial at W is ley, 275 
Streptocarpus Burdett’s strain, 656 
Streptofiolen Jamesoni, 74, 627 
Stuartia virginiea, 309; flowering shoot 
of, 309 

Sulphate of ammonia for Potatoes, 128 
Sunflower, annual, 381 
Sunflowers, the annual, 381 
Superphosphates, 98 
Swainsonia galegifolia alba, treatment 
of. 131 

Sweet Brier hedge, 417 
Sweet Williams, 263, 283, 355 
Sycamore leaf, blotch, 434 
tree, gall-mites on, 264 
Symphuricarpue racemosus, 169, 574 
Syriuga amurensis, 540 
fungus on, 241 
japonica, 519 
Josikeea eximin, 641 
pekinensis, 549 
pruning the, 245 
shoots unhealthy, 344 
Syrup for feeding bees, 399 


T 

TABLE decoration, 433: for compe¬ 
tition. hints on. 368 
Tacsonia failing, 328, 372 
Tamarisk, the, iu bloom, 309 
Tank, making a, 452 
Tar-weed, the, 29 
Tea-tree of Australia, the, 642 
Tennis-court asphalte, 452; gravel, 
making a, 448 

lawn. Clover in. 256; dressing a, 40: 
making a, 506: marking a, lix; 
soot for, 666 

Terrace, the, at Powis, 473 
Testacella haliotidea, 88 
Theory versus practice, 51 
Thorn, the scarlet-fruited, G08 
Thorn-, scarlet, by the sea, 291 
Thrips on Azaleas, 68, 553 
Thrush, food for, 479 
Thunbergia myaorensis. 58 
Tibouchina, 34 
Bentbainiana. 34 
elegans, 34 
Gayana. 34 
Gaudichaudiaiia. 34 
granulosa. 34 
heteromalla, 34 
holosericea, 34 
Kunthiana, 34 
macraotha, 34 
marmorata, 34 
sarnientosu. 34 
*tmidecandra, 34 

tillosa. 34 . , , 

Tints, autumn,- in trees and shrubs, 

Jobacco, the Mountain. 21.5 


Tobaccos, 449 

Tomato and Pelargonium - leaves, 
fungus on, 180 
Carter s Sunrise, 342 
culture in pits, 23 
fungus, 704 
house, heating a, 66 
leaves, black spots on, 2S5 
plants failing, 144 
sauce, 424 
Sunrise, 476 
Tomatoes, 154, 401 
black spot in. 184 
damping, 80 
defoliating, 313 
failing, 285, 494; to set, 228 
final efforts, 390 
for exhibition, 628 
for winter, 313 
green, 476 

in a studio, growing. 10 
in boxes, 163 
in greenhouse, 80 
in span-house, 54 
in the open air, 128 
injury to, 282 

making an early start with, 570 
outdoor, 424, 454 
spotted, 356, 424 
stunted, 355 
temporary house for, 51 
under glass, 314, 482 
unhealthy, 290 
using green, 506 
Trachymeve corrulea, 127 
Transplanting, late, 177 

Travtvetteria palmata, 395 
Tree, a group of a native, 125 
small, for sea coast, 400 
stein decaying, 274 
stumps, destroying, 614 
the Cape Silver, 74 
the Gold Mohur, 164 
Trees and shrubs, deciduous, in winter, 
663; for the Downs. 608: lifting 
and transplanting, 561; some new, 
616; timely thinning of, 573 
dwarf Japanese, treatment of, 245 
evergreen, transplanting, 365 
for limestone soil, 23 
shrubs and vegetables for elevated 
position. 640 

the time to transplant. 347 
wall cordon, pruning. 108 
Trellis, climbers for, 666 
Trillium gratidiflorum, 213 
Triteleia uniflora, 526 
Tritomas, 440 
Trollius usiaticus, 213 
Tropseolum polyphyllum, 400 
speeiosum, 385; in Ireland, 17 
tricolor, 462; treatment of, 144 
tuberosum, 680 
; Tuberoses. 672 
I in cold frame, 106 
Tubers in baskets, 634 
Tulip Golden Spire. 169 
Tulips diseased, 210 
failing. 73 

I leaving, in the ground, 122 
i May, 255, 274 
planting, 358 
treatment of. 172 
Tulip-tree, the, 815 
from seed, raising, 288 
Turf, weedy. 48H 

Turnip Chirk Castle Black Stone, 284 
flea, the, 160 
Golden Pall, 234 
Turnips. 234 
late, 424 


u 

URCEOLINA a urea, 526 
L'tricularia montana, 251 


VALLOTA. 400 

purpurea, 361 
Vanda Kimballiana, 669 
Vegetable collections: judging by 
points, 27 
1 forcing. 545 

garden, cropping, G80; judging a, 
31* 

Marrow, decayed. 356: jam, 274; pre¬ 
serve, 450: culture of, 97 
i Vegetables, a supply of, 625 

and fruit-trees, manuring, 519 
for exhibition, 92, 480, 678, 694 
more space for better, 98 
i quality of, 228 
' two good winter, 77 


I Vegetables, unappreciated, 128 
under trees, 12 
Veltheimia viridiflora. 4 
Verbena, the Sweet-scented. 620 
Verbenas, 440 
for baskets, 198 
for various positions, 35 
from seed, 697 
growing them hardy, 298 
in pots, 223 

Veronica Hulkeana, 291 
Viburnum acerifolium, 249 
alnifolium, 249 
cassinoides, 249 
dentatum, 249 
dilatation, 249 
plicatum, 249 
prunifolium, 249 
pubescens, 249 
rhytidophylluui. 641 
Sargenti, 249 
Sieboldi, 249 
tomentosum. 249 
vcnosum, 249 
Wrighti, 249 

Vi hum urns, some good, 249 
View in the gardens at Narrow Water 
Castle, Co. Down, 407 
Vine-borders, forming new, 494; in 
winter, 584; making, 575; renovat¬ 
ing, 442 
failing, 232 

foliage in bad condition, 158 

for cold-house, 10 

in poor condition, 667 

in pot, 376 

large-leaved, 480 

leaves, warts on, 132, 174 

lifting, 494 

outdoors, 154 

replanting a, 662 

shoots, stopping, 94, 118 

treatment of. 376 

i weevil, the black, 224, 400, 558, 088 
I Vines, 628 

air-roots on, 232 
crowded. 600 
cutting down, 628 
disbudding, 94 
for cold greenhouse, 534 
in bad condition, 196, 442 
1 in pots, 468 

mealy-bug on, 96. 206 
mildew on, 168 

Peaches and Nectarines, treatment 
of, 668 

I pot, ripening Grapes, 104 
pruning, 494 
treatment of, 299 
1 Vineries, mildew' in, 242 

Vinery, blue-hot tie flies in. 264 
greenhouse, rebuilding a, 704 
Roses in, 577 
the, in winter. 508 
w all-plant in. 54 
Viola pedata, .>54 
I Violet-culture, 99 
fungus, 686 
La France, 514, 609 
leaves, fungus on, 868; unhealthy. 
I 420 

naturalising the, 202 
the Bird’s-foot, 554 
Violets, 422, 427 
behaviour of, 145 
diseased, 12. 44, 334, 544, 648 
failing to open, 494 
growing, 297 
in frames, 124, 474 
on north border, 680 
outdoor, 109 
red-spider on, 479 
treatment of. 366, 652 
with yellow foliage, loo 
i Vitis leeoides, 641 


w 


IF .4 LA'. a Wistaria-covered, 323 
Wall, creepers for, 479 
plant tor a north, 675 
plant*, 111 

Walls, climbers on, 607 
garden, 178; in summer, 661 
ivy-covered, the advantage of, 169 
Wallflower Miss Willmott, 147 
Wallflowers, 190 
and frost, 110, 146 
early-blooming, 883 
for effect, 565 
in a cold greenhouse, 568 
late, removal of, 5 
the survival of the fittest, 636 
transplanting, 298 
Walnuts, the pruning of, 23 
Walnut-tree bleeding, 052; not fruit¬ 
ing. 532 


Wand-flower, the, 197 
Wasps and fruit crops, 375, 415 
Water, a soaking of—What is it? 304 
hard, to soften, 218 
Lilies, 344, 400; in tubs, 344 
plunts in porcelain sink, growing. 
640 

Wax-flower, the, 348 
Weed, coarse, in lawn, 178 
on lawn, 400, 427, 494, 518 
in pond, 302 

Week’s work, the coming, 11, 25, 38, 
52, 67, 78, 93, 105, 116, 130. 143, 156. 
170, 182, 193 , 205, 217 , 230, 243, 259. 
273. 286 , 300, 314 , 327 , 343, 357. 370, 
385, 398, 412, 427, 439, 461, 4C5, 478. 
492, 504. 517, 531, 543, 556, 571, 584. 
598, 612, 626, 639, 051, 604, 679, 690, 
703 

Weigelas, 277 
under glass, 164 
Weigela variegatu, 277 
Weyhridge, Orchids at, 102 
Wheat in a walled kitchen garden, 
growing. 654 
Whorl-flower, the, 298 
Willow, gall on, 446 
leaves, injury to, 368 
Willows diseased, 210 
Wilts, a note from, 91 
Windflower, the Greek, 202 
i Window-box season, the, 71 

boxes, 19H, 658: in autumn, 284, 384; 
plants for. 94: what to grow in, 
506 

case, plants for, GS 
conservatory, 300 
gardening, 458 
plants, 676 

Winter and the spring, ’twixt, 686 
Cherry, the, 600 
Green, the Creeping, 44 
layers, selecting the, 371 
moth, the, 150 
| Vine borders in, 534 
Wireworm. destroying, 206 
Wire worms, 96 
Wistaria failing, 245 
flowers falling, 158 
not blooming, 245 
soil for, 425 

sparrows destroying, 169 
the white, 229 
treatment of, 90 
Winter Cherries, 33 
Women as gardeners, 629, 653, 682 
Wood Anemone “ Jack in the Green," 
| 60 

; Woodland beauty In May, 151 
Woodlice, 144, 150 

Worm attacking window plants. 446 
Rose-roots. ,564 
Worms in lawn, 281. 531 
i B’reafJi, the Purple, 192 


X 

XANTHORRHIZA upiifoliu, 169 


Y 

YELLOW Root. the. 169 
Yucca gloriosa. group of, in the 
gardens at Abbotsbury, Dorset, 
697 

Yuccas in flower, 565 
the smaller, effect of, in flower. 565 


z 

ZEBRA finch, death of. 12 
Zephyranthes, 349 
I Anderson!, 340 
I Atamasco, 349 
Candida, 340 
carinata, 349 
citrina, 349 
1 macrosiphon, 849 
mesocliloa, 349 
rosea, 349 
sessilis. 349 
Spofforthiana. 349 
Treatise, 340 
tuhispatha. 349 
Zinnias, 141 

i the effect of bad weather, 299 
I Zygopetnlum Burkei, 102 
crinitum, 102 
Mackayi, 102 
maxillare, 102 
rostratum, 102 

1 Zygopetalums, growing, 102 


Digitized by Goo 


Original from • 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



xii 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 



Digitized by 


Google 


Original from 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 





INDEX. 


Allotment cropping 
Apple French Crab 

Been. 

Birds .. 
Chrysanthemum F. H. 

Vail is showing an eye 
Chrysanthemums 

Chrysanthemums-stop¬ 
ping and timing 

Cinerarias flagging 
Clematises from the 
North of Ireland 
Climbing plants in 
greenhouses 
Colour in winter 
Conservatory 
F.ucalyptus flcifolia 
Fern notes 

Ferns, covering green¬ 
house wall with 


Ferns . 

7 

Grasses, ornamental 

li 

Orchard house.. 

10 

Rows . 


Kerim, seedling .. 

8 

Hardy flower notes 

5 

Orchids. 

9 



Ferns under Kin** 

11 

Honeysuckle, pruning .. 

8 

Outdoor garden .. 

11 

flowering 

12 

Floral arrangements, 


Hyacinth* in pots 

3 

Outdoor plants .. 

5 



seasonable 

7 

Indoor plants 


Pears, the keeping of . . 

y 


8 

Forcing-house .. 

11 

Iris stylosa not flowering 

b 

Phorntium tenax, hardi- 



a 

Fowls' manure .. 

12 

Iris, the Algerian, in 


ness of. 

8 


8 

Kritillaria armena 

t; 

Cornwall 

fi 

Plant-grouping in Re- 


Roses, pot. . 

8 

Fruit . 


Laurels, pruning 

12 

gent s Park 

s 



Fruit garden 

li 

Law and custom 

12 

Plants ami flowers 

2 


9 

Fruit-trees, feeding 

in 

Lawn, croquet, in bad 


Plants for edging 

7 



Fuchsias. 

3 

condition 

6 

Plants for table .. 

7 


4 

Gatcgas for forcing 

4 

Lilitim auratum, pot- 


Plants for shaded border 

2 



Garden diary, extracts 


ting . 

12 

Plants, sweet-scented. 



1 

from a. 

11 

Liliums from seed 

6 

for the greenhouse .. 

2 


2 

Garden pests and 


Magnolias at Bieton, 


Plum Goliath 

0 

Solatium jasniinoides, 


friends. 

8 

Devon . 

1 


ID 


2 

Garden work 

11 

Mam miliaria 

12 

Room and window 

7 

Spinach Beet 

10 

Gcntiuna arvemensis . 


Mors in lawn 

ti 

Rose hedges 

8 


12 

Gooselierry mildew 

8 

Musas, raising, from seed 

4 

Rose in poor condition 

12 

Strawberries, forcing .. 

11 


Sweet I’eas — prelimi¬ 
nary work 

Tomatoes, growing, in a 

studio. 

Tomatoes in cool-houses 
Tree - Carnations, the 

older . 

Trees and shrubs 
Vegetable garden 
Vegetables 

Vegetables under trees 
Veltheimia viridifolia .. 
Vino for cold house 
Vines, white grubs at¬ 
tacking roots of 
Violet* diseased 
Wallflowers, lalo re¬ 
moval of. 

Week's work, the tout¬ 
ing . 


6 

ID 

11 

I 

1 

II 

10 

13 

4 

10 

8 

13 


11 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 

MAGNOLIAS AT B1CTON, DEVON. 
Bicton has long been noted for its Magnolias, 
especially M. graudiflora, and a well-flowered 
specimen in July calls for special mention, 
not only for its immense white cup-shaped 
flowers, blit also for the delicious fragrance 
it imparts, and which can be detected many 
yards away. Unfortunately, the majority of 
the varieties arc deciduous, yet this ought not 
to deter planters including most of them in 
their collections of hardy trees and shrubs. 

M. ci ran pi flora grows rampant in this 
genial climate, consequently many shoots 
have to be sacrificed when planted against 
walls. This pruning is best done either in 
November or February, when the remaining 
shoots must be secured to the wall. In cut¬ 
ting away this surplus growth forethought is 
required, only dispensing with the weaker 
shoots or the chance of many flowers during 
the summer will be lost. With bush or stan¬ 
dard trees very little pruning becomes neces¬ 
sary, provided such have space to grow at 
will, and these ought to be planted where all 
the sun can reach them. The Exmouth 
variety of the above is the best, the individual 
flowers being much larger. Another ever¬ 
green variety that succeeds here is 

M. fuscata. This has the smallest flowers 
of any in the genus, but the most fragrant, 
the tiny pink or brown flowers, not at all con¬ 
spicuous, giving out an an odour similar to 
that of the Banana or Pear-drop sweet when 
eaten back in our boyhood days. Probably 
this is not hardy, except in the warmer coun¬ 
ties, and even here part of the foliage gets 
crippled during severe frost os recently ex¬ 
perienced. There arc about a score or so 
of deciduous varieties, but the following com¬ 
prise the cream of them : 

M. stellata (syn. M. Halleana) is a gem, 
the pure white star-shaped flowers being 
borne in abundance before the leaves appear, 
opening in March and early April. This 
forms a capital specimen shrub, and ought to 
be in every garden. It is not a particularly 
fast grower, so may well he planted in com¬ 
paratively small gardens. 

Digitized by (jO^ '^lC 


M. conspicua, commonly known as the 
Yulan, is too well known to require much de¬ 
scribing. It forms a fine standard in many 
parts of the country, but on account of its 
early flowering it sometimes gets cut with 
the frost, yet it is a most valuable variety, 
and is well worthy of wall space. The blos¬ 
soms are very sweet, almost pure white, ex¬ 
cept a slight trace of purple on the reversed 
petal. There are several varieties of this — 
viz., Soulangeana, Lennci, Alexnndrina, Nor- I 
berti, and speeiosa, the flowers more or less ! 
coloured with pink or purple. 

M. WAT80NI is a newer variety, very dis- 
tinct, and really beautiful, and should be 
made a note of by all intending planters. 

M. acuminata (Cucumbcr-tree).—I am at 
a loss to know why this latter name has been 
given, unless it be the large and long hand¬ 
some leaves it makes. The flowers large, of 
a creamy yellow, and not very sweet, appear 
in Juno and July. This variety seeded with 
us last summer. The seeds have been sown, 
but they have not as yet germinated. 

M. Fraseri (syn. M. auriculata) has also 
yellowish flowers, which open in April or 
May. 

M. glauca forms a spreading tree, carry¬ 
ing creamy flowers, rather small. There arc 
also two or three varieties of glauca. M. 
parviflora, considered by some to be a variety 
of Watsoni, has pretty white flowers, tinted 
with rose. 

Magnolias arc increased by seeds, layers, 
cuttings, as well as by grafting, and most 
varieties grow in almost any soil, provided it 
be well drained. Spring is the best time to 
plant, and, if possible, from pots, although | 
layers in the home grounds, if nicely rooted, | 
may, with care, be planted in a permanent 
position. A forced collection was exhibited I 
by Messrs. Cutbush, of Higbgate, at the , 
R.H.S. Hall, on February 12th, thus showing ! 
that the Magnolia is useful for pots as well 
as for planting out-of-doors. To achieve i 
this, the wood must be well ripened outside 
during summer, and the plants must be sub¬ 
jected to very little heat at such an early 
season. J. Mayne. 


THREE GOOD WINTER - FLOWERING 
SHRUBS. 

Flowering plants are few and far between 
in the open air during the depth of winter, 

I and the limited number that bloom in the 
I dark days of the year are, therefore, the more 
I precious to us. Christmas Roses, the Al¬ 
gerian Irises, and, occasionally, Iris alata, 
are in blooin, and the Winter Sweet has but 
lately been written of in these columns. Three 
other winter-flowering shrubs are here men- 
tioned that are well worthy of being planted 
in any garden where they do not already 
exist: — 

Hamamelis arborea. — This quaintly- 
flowered, hut attractive, shrub is now in full 
bloom, and presents a striking appearance 
with even its smallest hranchlet thickly set 
with its curious blossoms, which resemble 
rolls of ribbon before they expand, and, when 
fully open, have the appearance of twisted 
strips of gold leaf about three-quarters of an 
inch in length, each flower being composed of 
four petals, which contrast pleasingly with 
the crimson sepals. It is a native of Japan, 
and perfectly hardy. It has been known al- 
I most fifty years in this country, and is all too 
rarely met with. To be seen at its best it 
should be planted in front of some dark¬ 
leaved evergreen, such as Yew or Holly. 

Lonicera fragrantissima is a bush 
Honeysuckle, growing to a height of 6 feet or 
8 feet, and attaining a greater altitude when 
trained to a wall. Its small, white, drooping 
flowers are deliciously scented, a big bush in 
full bloom perfuming the air for yards around 
on a still, sunny day, while the blossoming 
shoots, if cut and brought indoors, will dif¬ 
fuse their grateful fragrance through the 
house. The flowers are little harmed by bad 
weather. It is a native of China, whence it 
was introduced in 1845, and is quite hardy. 
A very similar species is L. Standishi, but L. 
fragrantissima is to be preferred. In the 
south-west it comes into bloom in mid- 
January. 

Prunus Davidiana is the earliest of the 
Almonds, and has been in flower here since 
the middle of January. There are two forms, 
the white and the rose-ebloured. The former 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 































GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


March 2, 1907 


is the freer bloomer. Its individual flowers 
are an inch in diameter, and are studded 
along the whole length of the shoots. This, 
like the Witch Hazel, is seen to the best ad¬ 
vantage when backed by an evergreen, a 
standard tree in full flower making a beauti¬ 
ful picture. 

S. W. Fitzherbert. 


PALE BLUE SOLANUM JASMINOIDES. 
This form is much less common than the 
beautiful white kind. It is quite free and 
hardy, and certainly this colour is a gain. 
We have only tried it on the south side of a 
house, where it grows and flowers freely 
enough. But it does not, in the South of 
England, at least, attain the vigour and 
abandon of the ordinary kind when on the 
north side of the house. Still, it is a very 
useful plant, and worth trying in various 
ways. _ 


SHRUBS UNDER TREES. 

(Reply to “ J. M. B.”) 

By far the best plant to clothe the ground 
under a dense shade is the Ivy, as that will 
not only hold its own, but even thrive in 
situations where but few things will exist. 
For such a place the more vigorous varieties 


carpet of green will soon be formed. A tho¬ 
rough watering whenever necessary will be 
of service. If a variegated variety is especi¬ 
ally required, the one I have found to do best 
under such conditions is marmornta major, a 
form with the leaves irregularly blotched 
with yellow. This is more vigorous than the 
silver-edged varieties. Another shrub that 
will grow in shady spots more or less under 
the drip of trees is the Butcher’s Broom, 
which, though of slow growth in dry soils, 

I will still retain its colour even where un- 
j favourably situated. It is, indeed, for this 
reason a very useful plant, and so are some 
of the evergreen Barberries, or rather the 
different forms of the common Berberis or 
Mahonia Aquifolium, which will not only 
grow in shady spots, but also flower, and 
| where springing from an Ivy carpet their 
beautiful golden blossoms are seen to very 
i great advantage. The Periwinkles, too, are 
shade-loving plants that are not half enough 
, grown, as they are very beautiful when cover- 
| ing a shady bank or in some such a spot. 
The common St. John’s Wort will both grow 
and flower well under trees, and always re¬ 
tain its dwarf character, and where not tco 
dense the Spurge Laurel (Daphne Laureola) 
will prove satisfactory. The foliage of this is 
of a rich dark green, while the flowers, 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

INDOOR PLANTS. 

SWEET-SCENTED PLANTS FOR THE 
GREENHOUSE. 

A flower, however beautiful it may be, if 
devoid of fragrance, does not possess one half 
the charm it would if it were pleasantly 
6cented. In the case of some flowers the de¬ 
mand for size has, however, led to fragrance 
being overlooked. Out-of-doors the plants 
thatnave a pleasing fragrance of leaf, flower or 
fruit are numerous, and though greenhouse 
plants possessing these attributes are more 
limited, these are, when all are taken into 
consideration, a goodly number. Of flowers 
remarkable for their fragrance bulbous plants 
embrace many, prominent among them being 
Hyacinths, the smell of most varieties of 
which is, however, too overpowering in a con¬ 
fined space, though this cannot be urged 
against the pretty little white Roman Hya¬ 
cinth, the blossoms of which have a pleasing 
fragrance. The different Narcissi, especially 
the members of the Polyanthus section, Lily 
of the Valley, Tuberose, and Freesia refracta 
alba, are all well known and much grown for 
their agreeable scent. 



of Ivy should bo chosen, the Irish being one 
of the best for that purpose. The variegated¬ 
leaved kinds are rarely seen to advantage so 
treated, while the weak growing forms are at 
best unsatisfactory. Next to the selection of 
the subject is the planting of it, and that is 
a very important matter, for unless carefully j 
done the attempt to obtain a good carpet of 
Ivy is likely to end in failure. The one great 
point to consider in planting Ivy under such 
conditions is to keep the roots as far as pos¬ 
sible from the trunk of the tree underneath 
which it is wanted to grow, as if near the 
trunk of a large tree it. will be simply starved, 
for even if a little of the old soil be taken 
out and some of a richer nature substituted 
iu which to plant the Ivy, the roots of the 
tree itself will take possession of it before 
those of the Ivy. By far the most satisfactory 
way of carrying out this planting is to keep 
the roots of the Ivies outside the radius of 
branches where they will be clear of the drip 
from the tree, which is so detrimental to any 
living subject. The plants chosen must be 
good clean-grown stuff, and for each a hole 
should be dug sufficient to hold a barrow¬ 
load of good soil, into which the new roots 
will quickly push. The shoots should be 
pegged down firmly, most of them towards the 
centre of the tree, and, if done as above de¬ 
tailed, and the plants are vigorous, a good 

Digitized by GOOglC 


Solatium josminoides. Pale-blue form. 


though not individually showy, are very i 
pretty in a mass and agreeably scented. The 
variegated-leaved Euonymus radicans is sel- | 
doni employed for carpeting the ground be¬ 
neath trees, yet it will grow in such a posi- , 
tion, and supplies a certain amount of variety. | 
Gaultheria Shallon will both grow, flower, 
and fruit in the shade, provided the roots 
are fairly moist, as it is soon injured by 
drought. This succeeds best where the soil 
is largely composed of decayed vegetable mat¬ 
ter, as in this material the roots run rapidly 
and soon form a dense mass. Other ever¬ 
greens that may be mentioned as succeeding 
better than any others in shady spots are the 
Aucubas and Skimmias, both of which are 
more highly coloured where partially shaded 
than if fully exposed to the sunshine. 


Plants for shaded border (Nonce).—You might 
try, among annuals. Esehsclioltzias, Poppies, Corn¬ 
flowers, Lupins, Nasturtiums, etc. Of perennials, 
Lupinus polyphyllus in variety, Lupinus arboreus, 
Flag Irises, Megaseas, Ileucheras, Funkias, Trades- 
cantia, Lythrum, etc. For such a position there is 
nothing better than native Ferns, among which you 
could plant in the autumn such a3 Narcissi in variety, 
and other spring-flowering bulbs. The position you 
have would suit Auriculas and all the Primula 
family—in fact, you might try any hardy plants, the 
only difference being that they will be rather later 
in coming into bloom. When planting you should put 
round the roots some good soil in order to give them 
a start. 


Uf Lilies by far the best in this respect is 
Lilium longiflorum arid its several varieties, 
whose silvery trumpets are very handsome, as 
well as fragrant. The Golden-rayed Lily of 
Japan (Lilium auratum) and, indeed, several, 
other species, are too strongly scented for use 
under glass, though out-of-doors the perfume 
is not so unpleasant. Roses and Carnations 
are noted for their fragrance, but some of tho 
newer kinds of both arc in this respect not 
the equal of their older brethren. 

Some of the most notable of sweet-scented 
greenhouse plants flower in winter or early 
spring, as apart from many of the bulbs above 
mentioned include Luculia gratissima, whose 
large Hydrangea-like heads of pretty pink 
flowers are borne, as a rule, in early winter. 
Jasminum grandiflorum, that flowers from 
Michaelmas till Christmas, or nearly so, is a 
good deal like our common white Jasmine, but 
with larger flowers, which are most delici¬ 
ously fragrant. Daphne odorata or indica, as 
it used to be called, is quite an old-time 
favourite, the fragrance of whose blossoms is 
admired by everyone. Midwinter sees this 
at its best. Boronia megastigma is a little 
Heath-like shrub, native of Australia, which 
| in early spring develops tiny drooping bell- 
j shaped flowers, greenish-yellow within, and 
chocolate on the exterior. Their violet like 
| perfume is most pleasing, 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 












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Original from 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



UAK±)±J\lJX<Jr ILLU&1KATLD. 


March 2, 1907 


4 


therefore, medium-sized, firm, well-ripened 
bulbs to obtain the best Hyacinths. 

Some time in November examine the 
plants, Roots will be found plentiful, in 
some cases growing through the hole at the 
bottom of the pots, while the top growth will 
be about an inch high and the bloom-spikes 
visible. Such as these may be taken from 
their covering and stood in a cool-frame or 
greenhouse where plenty of air can be ad¬ 
mitted. For a few' days do not remove the 
pots which were placed over the bulbs ; the 
change from darkness to light must be 
gradual. Hyacinths to be well grown must 
grow slowly, otherwise the leaves will ad¬ 
vance faster than the bloums, and be wunting 
in substance. Keep the plants well up to the 
glass at all times, and give air abundantly. 
Do not water much in dull weather. Use 
rain water slightly warmed. After the spikes 
of bloom show colour, growth is very rapid, 
and it is then we must develop them to their 
utmost. By this time we should have abun¬ 
dance of roots ; all the stimulants necessary 
may then be given. Soot-water is excellent. 
Sulphate of ammonia may also be used at the 
rate of an ounce to two gallons of water. Use 
it at every watering, which may now be often, 
for at the final period it is not easy to over do 
Hyacinths with moisture at the roots. 


THE OLDER TREE-CARNATIONS. 

You will, no doubt, have noted how the Tree-Carna¬ 
tion has advanced in public favour within the last 
few years, and it has occurred to me that if you 
could see your way to publish a few articles, de¬ 
scribing the good and bad points of the varieties in 
fummon cultivation, they would prove very useful to 
gardeners in particular and to many others inter¬ 
ested in gardening. I am aware that you have pub¬ 
lished descriptions of the newest varieties in Garden¬ 
ing from time to time, but many gardeners have to 
deal with sorts not so new, and, consequently, very 
little mentioned in gardening papers.—P artick. 

[If by your inquiry you want a list of the older 
varieties of Tree-Carnations we think we can 
oblige you. As to their good and bad points 
opinions not only differ but change with the 
times, and we now see some of our foremost 
cultivators taking in hand a type of Carnation 
that years ago would have been quickly dis¬ 
carded. The Carnation with the serrated 
edge, for example, now so popular with 
Americans and British alike, would not have 
found favour in this country a few years back. 
We give the names and colours, etc., of some 
of the older sorts that are worthy of considera¬ 
tion, and will still be found of much service in 
those instances where many flowers have to 
be provided in winter. It should, of course, 
be borne in mind thut by adopting the same 
wystem of disbudding the varieties enumerated 
below, much larger flowers than would other¬ 
wise be the case are obtained. 

Countess of Warwick. —A fine Ynriety, 
with flowers of a rich crimson shade. Wc be¬ 
lieve this was a cross from Uriah Pike. 

Duchess of Portland. —A refined and 
beautiful flower, with nearly perfectly smooth 
petal, flowers full, colour delicate pink. 

Duke of York.—V igorous in habit, flower 
large, fragrant, crimson. It is shy in winter, 
and generally slow to expand. 

Miss Joi.tffe.—T his, the most popular 
Carnation of its colour for nearly a quarter of 
a century, is of a bushy habit, flowers small, 
freely produced. 

Miss Mary Godfrey.— A good white Car¬ 
nation in some respects, but thin in petal, and 
liable to curl in some localities. 

Mrs. Leopold de Rothschild.— This ex¬ 
cellent pink-flowered Carnation is still of 
much value, and invariably gives satisfaction. 
It is not. good for producing sprays of blos¬ 
soms. Its weak stem is its weak point. 

Mrs. S. J. Brooks. —In nil respects a fine 
pure white Carnation, fragrant, free-flower¬ 
ing, and of robust growth. 

Reginald Godfrey.—A good pink-flowered 
sort of bu6hv habit. 

Uriah Pike.— Colour crimson-maroon, 
flower fragrant, of good form, free. The 
flowers do not open well in winter. It re¬ 
quires a long seasop of growth. 

Winter Beauty.—A fine, clear, bright 
scarlet, very good. 

WYnter * Cheer.— Colour bright scarlet, 
bushy habit, free, dwarf. Next to Joliffe this 
was the most popular market red for many 
years. 


Digitized by 



Wm. Robinson.— A fine scarlet, rather tall 
as old sorts go, but good withal. 

Deutsche Bruant. — A white-flowered 
variety, which we regarded ns poor in colour, 
and inferior in every way. It is probably not 
much grown now. 

C. R. Dana. —Flower small, clear cerise, 
plant bushy, free-flowering. 

G. H. Crane.—A valuable scarlet in every 
way. It is a more modern kind than many 
named above. 

Irma.—P ink-flowered, fine bushy habit, but 
too sportive. 

La Belle. A very old white-flowered 
variety, thin, long, wiry habit, good autumn 
bloomer. Not now grown, perhaps. 

Lucifer.—B rilliant scarlet, the best of its 
colour in the older sorts ; still worth growing 
if it can be got true. 

La Neige.—P ure white, small, model 
habit, poor constitution generally. 

A. Alegatiere. —Reddish scarlet, good and 
free, erect habit, dull in colour compared to 
the scarlets of the last ten years. 

Mlle. Carle.—A white, contemporary 
with La Neige and others, and for years a 
ood standard market white, thin habit, and 
owers exceptionally thin in winter. 

Andalusia. —A pale yellow variety of 
thirty years ago, and not receiving much at¬ 
tention because of its fringed petals. The 
flower is large, somewhat rough, like many of 
the American type of to-day, and liable to 
burst its calyx.] 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Velthelmia viridifolia.— Last spring 1 inquired 
how to treat some bulbs given me under the name of 
“ Hithelmia Biratifolia hut the name must have been 
wrong, as you did not know it. I now send a bloom and 
a very rough sketch of bulb and foliage, which is very- 
glossy and handsome. Any information will be welcome. 
You kindly answered my ciuery last year in number for 
April 7.—M. E. C. 

[The name of the specimen sent is Vel- 
theimia viridifolia, a bulbous plant belonging 
to the order Liliacete. It is a native of the 
Cape of Good Hope, and was introduced 
therefrom as long ago as 1768. For all this, 
and the fact that it is a very ornamental sub¬ 
ject, of easy culture, it is not often met with 
in gardens. As might be supposed from its 
native country, the protection of a green¬ 
house is necessary to its well doing. You 
will see that the name you sent was not very 
far wrong, being principally confined to the 
initial letter of each word. We must con¬ 
gratulate you on the material sent for naming, 
as, in addition to the spike of flowers, the 
sketch is a most characteristic one.] 

Eucalyptus ficifolia.— How can I best grow 
Eucalyptus ficifolia, said to be a good greenhouse plant, 
nnd to l*ear “ fiery scarlet flowers Y” From what country 
does it come '!' Seedlings sown last summer, now about 
an inch high, seem to make no progress. Eucalyptus 
citriodora also grows very slowly, and I should like some 
hints as to its requirements.— Rkv. W. G. Russkll. 

[Eucalyptus ficifolia is a native of Western 
Australia, and is said in its native forests to 
seldom exceed 50 feet in height. The blos¬ 
soms are more of a crimson than a scarlet 
tint—that is, in its richest coloured forms, 
for there is in this respect a certain amount 
of individual variation, the flowers of some 
being of a rosy hue. Eucalyptus ficifolia and 
also E. citriodora need greenhouse protection 
during the winter, hut in the summer they 
may be stood out-of-doors. With regard to 
their culture, they should be potted in a mix¬ 
ture of loam, leaf-mould or peat, and sand, 
and need no special treatment. If your seeds 
were sown rather late in the summer, the 
young plants would, of course, bo still small 
by the autumn, and as they pass the winter 
in a quiet state, uo time has been lost up to 
now. We should advise you to repot them 
without delay in some good soil, as above ad¬ 
vised, and keep them rather closer than be¬ 
fore, till the roots are active. Though very 
showy in a state of nature, we are not aware 
that Eucalyptus ficifolia has yet flowered in 
this country.] 

Seeds from New Zealand, raising.-! should 
be glrul to know how to raise from seed the following 
N.Z. plants :—Olearift insignia, Cordyline australis, 
Arundo conspicua, and Coprosoma grandifloraY— Bally- 
CA8TLE. 

[The seed should be sown in clean, well- 
drained pots or pans, in a mixture of equal 
parts of loam, peat, and sand, well mixed 
together. This compost must be pressed down 


moderately firm, and made quite level at 
nearly half an inch below the rim of the pot 
or pan. Then sprinkle the seed thereon, and 
cover lightly with a little of the same soil, 
passed through a sieve with u quarter of an 
inch mesh. Next, place in the warmest part 
of the greenhouse, water through a fine rose, 
and shade from the sun. When the young 
plants are large enough to handle, they may 
be potted singly into small pots, using the 
same kind of compost.] 

Raising: Musas from seed.—I should be grateful 
for your advice as to raising seeds of Musa Ensete and 
Musa religioBa ? I tried last year, and they did not conic 
up. I have tried again this year with no result up to now. 
I soaked them in tepid water for 24 hours, then sowed 
them and kept them in a moist temperature of between 
70d»gs. nnd So degs. I can find no instructions in garden¬ 
ing books as to raising them, l thought perhaps they 
might take a year to germinate, but should be glad of 
your advice.—0. B. 

[Musa religiosa we do not know, but there is 
no difficulty in inducing Musa Ensete to ger¬ 
minate, provided the seed is good. We have 
had considerable experience m raising seeds 
of this last-named, and find not only that the 
seed very soon loses its vitality, but our im¬ 
pression is that it is often inq>erfectly. ferti¬ 
lised, and, therefore, incapable of germi¬ 
nating. Two years ago we had some seed of 
Musa Ensete sent from abroad, nearly every 
one of which germinated within a month 
from the time of sowing, yet, last year, seed 
from the same source, though, apparently, as 
sound and promising as the previous lot, was 
a comparative failure, not more than 5 per 
cent, producing plants. The seed which was 
such a success two years ago was sown in a 
mixture of loam, peat, and sand, in pots 
5 inches in diameter. Several seeds were put 
in each pot, and covered about one-third of 
an inch deep with the same compost. Tin* 
pots were then plunged in a gentle bottom- 
heat of about 75 degs. in the stove, with a 
minimum temperature in March (the time of 
sowing) of about 60 degs. It will thus be 
seen that the seed which germinated so well 
was not soaked at all previous to sow ing ; 
still, we think it might be a help, and cer¬ 
tainly it would not account for your want of 
success in raising Musas. From our experi¬ 
ence in the matter, we should on no account, 
delay sowing the seed when received, fearing 
that, if kept out of the ground, the vitality 
would be soon lost.] 

Cinerarias flagging.— My Cinerarias have been 
most disappointing. They have come to -the flowering 
stage, and then, for no apparent reason, have flagged. In 
one or two eases I have found a grub at the root, but not 
in all. 1 shall bo glad of any advice as to soil, etc.— 
J. M. R. 

[The flagging is very probably due to over 
watering, or it may be due to the want of light 
and air, causing the leaves to be thin and 
unable to bear their own weight w'hen tho 
sun shines on them. We fear, however, that, 
seeing you have found some grubs at the roots 
of the plants, these are more probably the 
cause. These grubs, no doubt, are those of 
the Vine-w'eevil, w r hich are very destructive 
to such plants as Cinerarias, Primulas, Cycla¬ 
mens, etc. If you will send us a specimen 
or two of the grubs, then we can decide. 
You give us no information as to your treat¬ 
ment of the plants, or tell us the size of the 
pots in which they are growing. Such in¬ 
formation is very helpful to us m giving ad¬ 
vice. The best soil is a mixture of fibrous 
loam, leaf-mould, a little rotten manure, with 
some river or silver-sand.] t 

Climbing plants in greenhouses. Where 
plants are grown in greenhouses with a view to beauti¬ 
fying the roof, it sometimes happens that they are 
either overlooked in the matter of training, or they are 
permitted to encroach too much ; consequently, instead 
of being an object of attraction, they are really the 
reverse, for they soon shut out the light, and the other 
plants in the house suffer thereby. It is when such a 
state of things exist-s that the knife should be used, and 
at no period is it more necessary than now, when days 
are beginning to lengthen, and growth is on the move.— 
Townsman. 

Galegas for forcing — Among our hardy plants 
that can be forced easily none is more beautiful in 
the spring titan the Galega or Goat's Rue. It is a 
familiar garden flower, and everyone who has it 
knows how it may be depended upon for blooming. 
It will bloom almost os freely if potted and brought 
on gradually in the greenhouse, affording some sup¬ 
port to the stems, taking care that it. is not ex¬ 
posed to overmuch heat, and that before it is brought 
into the house it is given a period in the cold-frame. 

I venture to say that those who know it only as a 
hardy garden plant would be surprised to find how 
useful it is when grown in pots.—W oodbastwick. 

Original ffom 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


ISA 


1007 


GJUDEA'TjYG ILL USTRATED. 


OUTDOOR PLANT8. HARDY FLOWER NOTES. in S growth of the old Polygonum, which 

should never be admitted into a flower bor¬ 
der, it does extend considerably, and may be 
only used as a border plant where there is 
As will be seen from the accompanying illus- sometimes answerable for some failures with abundant space, for when once it becomes 
tration, a fine, bold effect is produced by the , Windflower. In a natural state it grows firmly established and starts running it 
judicious grouping of flowering and orna- high U P> exposed to cold winds, but among smothers everything that comes in its way. 

mental foliaged plants. Such plants as the very short herbage. Several years ago my The w'ild garden, woodland, and shrubbery 

Phoenix, Dracrena. Latania, Bamboos, New largest specimen, which yearly gives thirty or are the positions best suited to this Knot- 
Ze aland Flax. Blue Gum, Castor-oil, forty flowers, gave me an object-lesson. A weed. In the woodland it is quite at home, 
Caladiums, and Acalyphas lend themselves period of hard frost set in, accompanied bv a in the course of time forming colonies, and 
admirably to this style of gardening, particu- biting easterly wind. Later on, thinking that I being at home in the partial shade and in 

larly where the beds arc of large size, and , the plant did not look very healthy, Ij company with a stronger vegetation. It 

not too formal in outline ; while such beauti- examined it, and found that the side that forms compact bushes, each from 3 feet to 
ful flowering subjects as Burbidge’s Calceo- faced the east was in a decaying condition, , 4 feet high, and some 3 feet through, which 
Jaria. Plumbago, the panicled Hydrangea, evidently induced by the action of frosty are in autumn simply smothered with spikes 
Verbenas, Cherry Pie, and Zurich Salvia winds. This Anemone retains its foliage of tiny pure white blossoms, which possess 
have a charming and wonderfully softening until very late ; at the close of the autumn it i an immense attraction for insect life. This 
effect when carefully massed around and near j bends down, forming a close collar round I and Aster Amellus are worth growing, if only 
the margins. Such beds, though entailing a the crown. This is. evidently, Nature’s pro- for the attraction they offer to butterflies, 


^ __ The Pasque-flower (Anemone Pulsatilla). 

I LANT-GROUPING IN REGENT’S PARK. —I am inclined to think that neatness is 



A group of flne-foliaged and flowering plants in Regent's Park. 


considerable amount of trouble and expense, 
are particularly effective, and greatly appre¬ 
ciated bv the general public. 

_A. D. W. 

Late removal of Wallflowers —As a general 
rule, it, is best to remove Wallflowers either in the 
autumn or wait until spring before doing so, as, if 
shifted, say, in January or May, it is a risky busi¬ 
ness owing* to the frosts. 1 have not found much 
difficulty in removing these, perhads the sweetest 
of spring flowers, even when in bud, provided each 
plant is taken up with a good ball of soil and given 
a sufficiency of water. It is a mistake to allow 
plants to remain in seed-beds too long, and. if pos¬ 
sible any removal should take place in the autumn. 
It is not surprising to find that single Wallflowers 
are every year becoming more popular, and that 
comparatively few grow the double sorts—for one 
thing, their sweetness cannot compare to that of 
singles, and they do not flower so freely. In open 
weather at this time.of the year, if 1 had Wall¬ 
flowers to move, I should not hesitate to shift them, 
provided I could ensure each being got up with a ball 

Of 80il.—WOODS ART WICK. 

Digitized by GOOgk 


tection, which, if removed, exposes the 
crowns to the action of frost. 

Plumbago Larpent^e. — The wannest 
corner in the garden is the place for this 
Leadwort, for it needs all the sun it can get 
to ripen the flowering shoots. Although per¬ 
fectly hardy, the flowers, like some other 
things that bloom in autumn, are liable to be 
cut by frost, therefore it should be so placed 
that the sun cannot hit the flowers early in 
the morning, when frost is on them. My 
plants are at the foot of a Holly hedge, front¬ 
ing west; they are top-dressed in winter with 
some kind of manure to encourage free 
growth. Managed in this way, the lovely 
little blue flowers will expand freely all i 
through October, whereas starved plants will ! 
give scarcely a blossom. 

Polygonum cuspidatum compactum.—. 
Although this has not the rampant overbear- 1 


humble bees, and flies. With mo these 
plants bring into the garden species of in¬ 
sects that I do not see at other times. On a 
bed of the Aster I counted Bix kinds of 
humble bees, five kinds of butterflies, and 
many species of flics. 

Ranunculus alpinus. —'This species must 
have moisture. I lost all my plants but one 
last summer simply because they were grow¬ 
ing in the full sun and I forgot to water 
them. In the southern counties, and especi¬ 
ally where the soil is light, it would probably 
be best to grow this species in a north aspect. 

Ac jEN a microphylla.— The Aeaenas are 
all useful for carpeting ground that parches 
in summer. One or two of them, as, for in¬ 
stance, pulchella and Buchanani, do well 
under trees, and, owing to the very creeping 
rootstock, they can live and thrive where the 
soil becomes very dry in summer. A. micro- 








6 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


March 2, 1007 


phylla, the smallest of the family, is of even 
lower stature than the Hypnum Mosses, just 
creeping over the ground, which it thickly 
covers with its deep bronzy-green foliage. 
The inflorescence consists of burr-like heads, 
which are closely set on the foliage, and 
which take on a rich crimson tint which lasts 
several months. Although so small of 
growth, this Acaena is not deficient in vigour, 
but does best in a light soil that contains a 
fair amount of organic matter. Like pul- 
chella, it is evergreen, retaining its colour 
even in u time of severe frost. 1 am inclined 
to think that the value of this plant lias never 
been realised. It seems to me that it is an 
ideal carpeter for small bulbous flowers such 
as Scillas, Fritillarias, some of the rarer 
Galanthi, Narcissus minimus, Bulboco- 
ditims, etc. It would just save them from 
being tarnished by the soil which, in a time 
of heavy rains, is washed up on them. 

Winter-blooming Crocus.— It is some¬ 
thing to be able to pick a few Crocus blooms 
in the latter days of January. The flowers, 
if gathered just when fully formed, will last 
quite a long time in a cool room. Imperati, 
purple and buff, flowers with much freedom 
early in February; Vitellinus, golden-yellow, 
ives an abundance of bloom in January ; 
’auri, creamy-white and purple; Tom- 
iiiasianus, white, push up their blossoms 
under a wintry sky. The only thing that 
seems to harm them is rough winds, which 
lay the flowers on the ground; therefore, 
plant where they are fairly sheltered. 

Buffed. J. CORNHILL. 


FRITILLARIA ARMENA. 
Fritillarias, while not, as a rule, ehowy 
plants, although there are exceptions, seeing 
that the Crown Imperial i« one of them, are. 
decidedly interesting, and when examined 
present many points of beauty hidden from 
the casual passer-by. The greater number 
are more or less chequered, and there are 
little' features of colour, form, or graceful 
habit which always make a good collection 
worth careful examination. A little species 
which has from time to time been imported in 
large numbers, and which is, in consequence, 
comparatively cheap, is that called F. 
nrmena. It is much dwarfer than our native 
F. Meleagris (the Snake’s Head Lily), being 
only some 4 inches to 6 inches or 7 inches 
high. As a plant for the front of the border, 
the rockery, or for naturalising in Gross, it is 
most valuable, and many people are much 
pleased with its little, rather conical droop¬ 
ing flowers. It is variable, as there are 
green, reddish, and pale yellow varieties, of 
different shades, but it is fairly uniform in 
height. It does not bloom until about April 
and May, and should not thus be planted in 
grass which requires to be cut early in the 
season, or its foliage, which should not be 
cut before ripe, will be in the way of the 
mower. The best time to plant is in early 
autumn, and it ought to bo remembered that 
this and other Fritillarias should bo as short 
a time out of the ground as possible. About 
3 inches is a suitnble depth to plant in the 
open. ' It mny also be mentioned that F. 
armena makes a good pot plant for the green¬ 
house or window, although not showy. It is, 
however, so seldom met with in pots that it 
attracts the curiosity of many. Pots 2 inches 
deep will he quite sufficient. It was first 
found in the neighbourhood of Erzeroum at a 
height of from 7.000 feet to 8,000 feet, so that 
there is no fear of its hardiness, which I have 
proved in my garden for years. Ordinary 
soil, not too heavy or too moist, will grow the 
pretty Fritillaria armena well. S. A. 


NOTES AND REPLIES . 

IriB stylosa not flowering:. -Till this year the 
Iris stylosa has flowered so well here from January 
onwards. This year T have not had a single flower, while 
my neighbour has had quantities. Should I replant, or 
what can you suggest ?—Me B. H. 

[Early in April break up some of your 
plants and replant tightly against the hottest 
wall you have, keeping the rhizomes quite 
near the surface. A frequent cause of this 
Iris not blooming is too much soil and too 
much root-room. The best plants we have 
ever seen are those tightly wedged against a 

Digitized by ’^lC 


south wall, the roots and rhizomes pressing 
on to this.] 

Clematises from the North of Ireland.— 

Will you kindly give ine the names of some free autumn- 
flowering, bluish-mauve Clematises suitable to our North 
of Ireland climate ?—Johkniikk. 

[You may be confident that all the best 
forms of C. Viticella will do well in your 
climate, and if the soil is open and free and 
sandy, any blue or mauve-coloured Clema¬ 
tises will do.] 

Croquet lawn in bad condition.— Would you 
kindly give me your advice in your next issue regarding 
mv lawn'/ It was laid in September, 1905, old meadow 
turf being used, but the workmanship was defective, as 
the levelling was bad, and several parts were lifted and 
relaid in the spring. Still, it had some bad depressions, 
to rectify which the local gardener who laid it recom¬ 
mended giving it a good top-dressing of seaside sand, 
using a spirit-level to get it perfectly filled up. This was 
done early last October. Some of the depressions took as 
much as UJ inches to 3 inches thickness of sand, the 
gardener assuring ine that the Gross would root in the 
sand and ultimately pierce it, but up till now it has not 
made its appearance, and on clearing away some of the 
sand I cannot find any trace at all of the old Grass on the 
turf. l>o you think the thickness of sand has smothered 
the Grass, or will it come through later on V Would you 
advise removing the sand and sowing seed underneath it? 
My opinion was that the sand should have been put on in 
successive dressings, hut the gardener told me that sand 
was sufficiently 0 |>en for the Grass to pierce it.—I xulk- 
sipk. 

[We have never heard of such a foolish 
proceeding. You can never expect Grass to 
come through such a thickness of sand ns you 
mention. The first rough wind might at once 
blow the sand away, as even on the seashore, 
where it is partially held in cheek by the 
vegetation, it is blown away. If the hollows 
are very numerous, you ought to have lifted 
the whole of the turf, levelled the soil, and 
thoroughly firmed it and relaid the turf. If 
the depressions are only few in number, lift 
the turf carefully in these places, loosen up 
the ground underneath, fill up with good soil, 
make firm, and relay the turf you have lifteu. 
This will answer, but we fear the lawn will 
be a source of trouble, as, evidently, the 
work has been badly done in the first 
instance.] 

Moss in-lawn.—I have a lwautiful croquet lawn 
which has developed matures of Moss. The ground seems 
quite soft. What can I do to rectify it? Is it too late in 
the season ? It would be impossible to drain it. It is a 
light soil with a gravel subsoil.—M. is. 

- Would you give the name and quantities of the 

chemical which destroys Moss in lawns ? Two years ago I 
raked the Moss off and dressed with fine soil, superphos¬ 
phate, and nitrate or soda. This year the Moss is as had 
as ever.—N bwcabtlk. 

[As your soil is sandy, and subsoil gravel, 
the chances are that tin* cause of the Moss 
appearing is poverty of the soil, and that if 
the Grass were better supplied with nourish¬ 
ment the Moss would disappear. Give the 
lawn a good scratching over with an iron- 
toothed rake, sweep up the disturbed Moss 
with a half-worn Birch-broom, give a dress¬ 
ing of newlv-slaeked lime, about a peck to the 
square rod, evenly distributed, and after 
wards give a further dressing of lawn-manure. 
Manure specialists now make special lawn 
manures, but a mixture of soot and wood- 
ashes, from half a peck to a peck per square 
rod. will bo very helpful. If you get the 
Grass thicker, the Moss will not trouble you. 
In the autumn something further in the way j 
of manure will be useful, and then we think ! 
you will not need to drain. I have had a l 
similar case to deal with, and cured it by 
feeding the Grasses in the way suggested 
here.—E. H.] 

[- We are assuming that you refer to 

sulphate of iron, which lias been strongly re¬ 
commended for destroying Moss on lawns, the i 
average quantity to be used being 6 lb. per j 
100 square yards. The best way to use the 
sulphate is in solution, thus distributing it 
evenly. The solution is made in the propor¬ 
tion of 1 lb. of the sulphate to 2 gallons of 
water. It should be made in a wooden vessel, 
such as an old cask, and, if possible, with 
soft or rain-water, and also just before it is 
used, as it loses strength by keeping. The 
sulphate can be applied at any season of the 
year, and is known to be acting effectively 
when the Moss turns black, after which it 
withers away. If the application has been 
too weak the Moss only becomes reddish. In 
this case a second application is necessary. 
It sometimes happens that the first two appli¬ 
cations are insufficient, and the operation has 
to be repeated the following year. As Moss 


generally indicates poorness of the soil, it is 
[ advisuble after the Moss is destroyed to apply 
some rich top-dressing, such as wood-ashes, 
loamy soil, and well-rotted manure mixed to¬ 
gether.—E d.] 

The Algerian Iris In Cornwall.— Mrs. 
Rogers, wruing to us from Burngoose, Perran- 
well, on February 17th, says: “Our Iris 
stylosa have been really good, several thou¬ 
sand blooms since November 12th, and some 
0,000 during the last month. The large kind 
blooms well here.” 

Liliums from seed. —Seeds of Liliums are 
seldom offered by seedsmen, and those which 
are for sale arc, as may lie expected, those 
which have rijicned the previous autumn, 
and are generally long in germinating. It 
will be found that seeds gathered and sown 
as soon as ripe will generally germinate the 
following spring, and that a year will he 
practically gained in most cases. Even 
Lilium gignnteuni, if allowed to scatter its 
seeds, will often produce self-sown seedlings 
in considerable numbers the following year. 
There is, however, much more economy in 
gathering the seeds as soon as they are ripe, 
and sowing them carefully, .either in pans 
under glass or in lines in the reserve or seed¬ 
beds. By this means flowering plants will be 
produced sometimes as early as the third, 
and more the fourth, year after sowing. I 
s(iw last year a noble group of L. gigantcum 
raised in this way, and giving some fine 
spikes. The other hardy Lilies will do well 
under the same treatment, and were raising 
Lilies from seeds more practised we would 
obtain more vigorous plants, with the possi¬ 
bility of securing still superior forms. One 
can confidently recommend raising hardy 
Lilies from seeds. If in the open, allow 
them to remain for two or three years before 
transplanting. If in pans, plant out the 
second year.—S. Arnott. 

Sweet Peas—preliminary work.— Al¬ 
though there is yet plenty of time before 
Sweet Pons can be sown, one may do some¬ 
thing towards ensuring success in July and 
August next by attending to matters now. 
The site should be selected, and, if possible, 
a fresh place should be chosen, manj^ growers 
inclining to the idea that a change is often 
beneficial. The place should be one exposed 
fully to the sun. no half-shady site. Just now 
it will be advisable to thoroughly dig the 
ground if this has not already been done, and 
get in old manure—say, that which has stood 
a few months—so that at the base of the row 
there will be both feeding and moisture in the 
hot weather. The advantage of this may not 
be apparent just now, but in July and August 
there is no gainsaying that the plan proves 
beneficial. Last year, which was a particu¬ 
larly trying one for Sweet Peas, proved that 
Peas which had been well mulched and fed 
with manure at their roots stood the best 
chance. Where Sweet Peas are wanted par¬ 
ticularly for cutting, it will be found best to 
confine the sorts to a few, if there is room, say, 
for a couple of rows only in a garden, and if 
the order has to be given to a firm at a dis¬ 
tance, it is well to remember that it is best 
to send early.— WOODBASTWICK. 

Ornamental Grasses —One of the most likely 

pages in a seed catalogue to be passed over as of 
little interest is that having reference to ornamental 
Grasses, and it is no doubt safe to say that the 
majority of people do not grow them. But to those 
who make cut flowers a specialty there are certain 
seasons when a few Grasses coine in most useful, as, 
for instance, in the arranging of Sweet Peas ami 
frail-looking flowers. It is, I think, because it is not 
known how easily ornamental Grasses are grown that 
so few trouble about them; but when it is under¬ 
stood that seed sown in April will produce many 
ornamental heads the same year, and which may be 
dried and made up into bouquets with dried flowers 
for winter, they will receive the attention they de¬ 
serve. Just a little bed in some corner of the garden 
sown with Avena sterilis (animated Oats), Briza 
maxima (Quaking Grass), and Hordeum jjubatmn 
(Squirrel-tnil Grass) will provide much useful material 
for decoration.— Lkahurst. 

Colour in winter. I have found Azolla folioularis 
most, valuable for this purpose, lyinjf in crimson patches 
on the surface of a small pond. A tiny scrap, not 4 inches 
square, came by accident, with some aquatics last Mn\, 
and spread during the summer over many yards of water, 
but. docs not, Beeni to have injured or choked its rivals. 

J. E. Kklsall. I Is this distinct from A. caroliniana ?— 
Ed.) 

Hardiness of Phormium tenax.- This has 

passed safely through the very trying ordeal 
of the past few weeks, with no sign of any 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


March 2, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 



injury, although we hod 20 degs. of frost on 
tereral nights. It is a wonder that it is not 
more planted in the south and west of Eng¬ 
land, as it has a fine tropical effect in shrub¬ 
beries. For furnishing winter gardens where 
very little heat is given, it is one of the best 
things that I know, as very large plants can 
be kept healthy for years in pots or tubs.— 
Jambs Groom, Gosport, Hants. 


GENTIAN A ARVERNENSIS. 

It is strange that so beautiful and easily 
grown a Gentian as this should be so little 
known, either botauically or liorticulturally. 
Discovered in the Auvergnes by Mr. Richard 
Potter, it was grown and distri¬ 
buted by the late Mr. Backhouse, 
of York, being named and de¬ 
scribed by him (?) in the Gar- 
Jrners* Chronicle (1883, II., p. 40). 

From the Index Kewensis and the 
Kew Hand List of herbaceous 
plants we learn that its habitat is 
uncertain, and tho only other men¬ 
tion of it that I can discover is in 
Clarke’s “Alpine Plants.” It is 
not included in tho Abbe Coste’s 
excellent, and recently completed, 

Flore de France.** I have Been 
it in very few gardens, and find it 
is quite new to most of mv garden¬ 
ing visitors, who, when they see 
it in bloom, are enraptured with 
it* brilliance. In general aspect 
it closely resembles G. septemfida, 
from the Caucasus, Persia, etc., 
bat besides their widely differing 
geographical ranges there arc 
marked differences between them. 

In arvernensis, as I know it, tho 
five accessory segments of tho 
corolla are l**»s regularly toothed, 
nor arc the teeth so long us in sep- 
temfida. Tho former nas a more 
upright habit:, commences to bloom 
several weeks earlier, and its 
flowers are caf a deeper and more 
brilliant blue, and rather larger. 

It*, great superiority over septem- 
tida as a garden plant lies in the 
much longer period that each indi¬ 
vidual flower lasts in perfection, 
for if I remember rightly, a blos- 
‘•>m of septeinfida seldom opens on 
more than two days, and only in 
direct and strong sunshine; while 
I should say those of arvernensis 
i-ontinue opening daily, if the 
weather is at all clear, for well 
over a week, perhaps longer, bo 
that the heads, which bear about 
eighteen flowers, last in full beauty 
for a month or six weeks. My 
plant seems quite happy iu a half 
?b»ded position at the foot of the 
rock garden, facing north-east, 
planted in loam, with a slight ad¬ 
dition of peat and leaf-mould. It 
has not been disturbed for five 
vears, and was planted as a seed¬ 
ling, increases steadily, and bears 
annually some dozen or more stems 
about 1 foot high, each crowned 
with ten to twenty flowers, w’liich 
commence opening early in July. 

I find in some seasons it produces 
little or no seed, and I think these 
barren years coincide with tho Gentian* 
hot and dry ones. It gets 
no artificial watering, but might 
grow higher and do better under 
moister conditions. I believe Messrs. Back¬ 
house still list it, and I hope the beautiful 
illustration from a photograph, taken here 
in July, 1905, and these notes, will induce 
others to grow and enjoy this delightful 
plant.— A. E. Bowles. 


Plants for edging (R- C.).—You have a great 
variety to choose from, including Kockfoils, House- 
leeks, Stonecrop, Gentlanella, Tufted Pansies, Aubrie- 
tiai. Alpine Phloxes, Candytufts. Daisies, and dwarf 
Harebells. There is. in fact, scarcely a limit to the 
choice one may make from the more free and 
vigorous rock and alpine plants, more especially in 
■ueh a soil—a sandy loam —as you have. The Mont- 
brrtia you mention is not suited for an edging. With 
r b* exception of the Houselcek family, all the plantB 
referred to above can be propagated freely from 

«uttiogs. 


ROOM AND WINDOW. 

SEASONABLE FLORAL ARRANGE¬ 
MENTS. 

The Olivias (Imantophyllums) are of quite a 
distinct character for cutting, lasting alBo ex¬ 
tremely well in water. These plants, when 
vigorous, will throw up strong spikes with 
numbers of flowers upon each. The earlier 
ones, when required for floral arrangements, 
should be taken singly as soon as they are 
fully open, and as soon as the latest flowers 
are unfolded, the spike may be cut and used 
in a natural way. For associating with the 
Clivia9 in a cut state there is nothing more 


irvernensia. From a photograph in Mr. A. E. Howies' 
garden, Myddleton House, Waltham Cross. 


suitable tliuu the Eucliaris, the Pancratium, 
or the Hymenocallis, taking either the single 
flowers or the spikes, as the case may be. 
When spikes of each are used, very effective 
arrangements may be made which will be 
found of more than ordinary service for en¬ 
trance balls or sideboards. Leaves of the 
long pendulous varieties of Crotons are very 
good additions to these kinds of flowers, so 
also is Eueharis foliage, or that of Agapan- 
thus umbellatus. Failing the Clivias, per¬ 
chance there will be a few spikes soon to 
spare of the Amaryllis ; these would be ex¬ 
cellent substitutes with either of the fore¬ 
going white flowers. When such things as 
the aforenamed are selected for an arrange¬ 
ment, see to it that the vases are not top- 


Digitized by 


Gocgle 


heavy, otherwise all will stand a chance of 
coming to grief. Free use could be made 
of the larger Ferns, also of climbers with 
such flowers. Amongst other stove flowering 
plants there will soon be the brilliant spathes 
of Anthurium Scherzerianum to be had. 
These look best with some white flowers as a 
contrast. Spikes of Spiraea juponica or white 
Lilac would do very well for this purpose ; a 
spike of Eucharis amazonica developing its 
latest blooms could also be employed. The 
Bermuda Lily, where forced early,* will soon 
be fit for use ; this hardly needs any addi¬ 
tion in a cut state, but Bhould any be de¬ 
sired, a few blooms of the large kinds of 
single Daffodils might be used or a few sprays 
of the Acacias now in season. Of other 
forced plants now easily had in flower, the 
hardy Azaleas supply us with a good variety 
of colour. The semi-double kinds of the 
Ghent varieties last well and produce a good 
effect in medium-sized vases ; these are more 
durable than the single sorts. Azalea mollis 
yields a great variety in colour of many soft 
and pleasing shades ; although the flowers do 
not keep so well as those of the first-named, 
they are extremely useful. The flowers of 
these Azaleas last better when the plants 
have been grown for a few years in pots with 
plenty of roots to support them. For foliage 
with these I prefer to use that of tho Mahonia 
for the lighter kinds and their own shoots 
with the darker coloured varieties, of which 
sufficient can generally be spared. 

G. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Plants for table. Please (rive me the nxmes of 
six best stove or greenhouse fine-foliated plants for show, 
also suitable for table decoration, to be exhibited in 
5-inch pots. The show is in August. Oi>en claw. 

P. M. D. 

[The following are all very select tablo 
plants, and the whole of them require the 
temperature of a stove. In Aralia Veitchi 
the leaves are formed of several narrow leaf¬ 
lets, in colour curiously mottled with olive 
and green ; it forms an exceedingly graceful 
plant. Aralia elegantissima is rather 
stronger-growing than the last, with dark- 
green leaves of a somewhat drooping ten¬ 
dency. Croton Chelsoni is a very narrow- 
leaved Croton, reddish-orange in colour. 
Croton elegantissimum has the leaves bright 
yellow. Dracaena angustifolia has narrow 
leaves, in colour bronzy-green and deep red. 
In Dracaena The Queen, the leaves are aB 
narrow as in the last, but the colour is deep 
green margined with carmine. Pandanus 
Veitchi is n well-known table plant, the 
leaves of which are of a bright green, freely 
striped with white. Cocos Weddelliana and 
Geonoma gracilis, two much-divided and ex¬ 
ceedingly graceful Palms, are quite distinct 
from each other. As such a limited selection 
us you ask for is decidedly a matter of 
opinion, we have given the names of nine 
different subjects, with a brief description of 
each, from which you can make your own 
choice.] 

FERNS. 

FERN NOTES. 

Bleciinum occidentals is a very useful 
Fern, and may be recommended as one of 
the best for house decoration. In quite a 
small state it is one of the best for the fancy 
pots now so much in use, or it may be grown 
on to make a good plant for a 5-inch pot. It 
conies freely from spores, and, grown in a 
loamy compost in an intermediate tempera¬ 
ture, well exposed to the light, the young 
fronds have a beautiful rosy-pink hue, chang¬ 
ing to a bronzy-brown, and then to a bright 
fresh green. B. australe is identical with the 
above, and there are several nearly allied 
varieties. B. glandulosum differs only in 
being of more erect growth and of a darker 
shade of green. B. polypodioides is another 
slightly different form, having narrower 
pinnte, which are slightly twisted. B. lati- 
folium is a larger species, but I have not 
found this do so well or prove so useful as 
tho three first referred to. 

Now that the Pterises are grown in such 
immense quantities, it becomes necessary to 
look for something fresh, and any new sorts 
that can be added ore WtU'h appreciated, 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 










s 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


March 2, 1907 


provided they will make good plants quickly. 
Among the older sorts there are some which, 
if taken in hand and grown well, may prove 
very useful. Take Pteris longifolia as an 
example. When three or four plants are 
grown in the same pot, and treated well, it 
is very useful, and quite distinct from the 
ordinary Pterises of the serrulata type. The 
Nepholepises are coming much into use, espe¬ 
cially N. exaltata. For hanging baskets this 
has no rival. Being readily increased from 
the rhizomes, there is no difficulty in getting 
stock. In growing the plants on, they like 
plenty of warmth and moisture, and all the 
light that can be obtained. They do well 
when suspended from the roof, as it gives the 
long, drooping fronds room for development. 
After they havo made good plants, they may 
be removed to a cooler house, and when har¬ 
dened off they last a long time. As a com¬ 
pact pot plant, N. philippinensis is one of 
the best, being of free growth and fairly 
hardy. Osmunda palustris is not so well 
known as it deserves to be. It differs from 
the North American O. gracilis in being ever¬ 
green. {Seedlings grown on freely make sym¬ 
metrical plants. They must not be crowded 
together, or they run up tall and thin, but 
give them plenty of room, and they spread 
out and make well-furnished plants. This 
has a pretty bronze tint in the young fronds. 
In a young state it may be grown in heat, 
but it is almost hardy. Probably the crowns 
would withstand frost. Spores do not always 
germinate freely. L. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Covering: greenhouse wall with Ferns.- 

I am an old reader of Gardening, arid would be glad of 
advice how to set about clothing the north-east end of 
greenhouse wall. My object is to entirely cover the wall 
with such Ferns as will grow in an ordinary greenhouse. 
In what way can I proceed to fix the soil against the wall 
to grow them? I shall be grateful for a reply.—A. G. 
WlM.IAMK. 

[Your best course will be at once to fix to 
your wall stout strips of wood 6 feet apart, 
running from top to bottom. These should 
bn 4 inches deep. To these fasten securely 
galvanised iron wire with large 6-inch mesh ; 
then force in between that and wall turfy 
pieces of peat, loam, and also Moss. Quite 
fill in the space between the wire and wall in 
this way, then plant into it small Ferns, and 
keep it well syringed. You may also obtain 
ripe Fern spores. Mix them with soft water 
in a pan or pail, and syringe them in that 
way all over the wall. So treated there will 
be in time a perfect wall of Ferns.] 

Seedling Ferns. —These should at all times 
be looked after and preserved, so that a good 
stock of young plants may always be coming 
on. They come in useful for many purposes 
if not wanted in larger pots. Many small¬ 
growing kinds can be advantageously em¬ 
ployed in the smallest of pots for decoration 
arrangements. Young growing plants will 
oftentimes be found better than using much 
larger ones which have become stunted. The 
AcUantums, the Pteris family, and others 
which arc of so much service should be 
looked after in this way. If at the present 
any are too small for pots, it is an easy matter 
to prick them off into pans for a time. Some 
sorts are easily increased by division whilst 
the potting is being done. When this mode 
of increase is adopted for the Maiden-hair 
(A. cuneatum) and its allies, it is better to 
cut the plant in pieces than to pull it asunder. 
Others, such os some of the Aspleuiums, are 
easily propagated from the small bulbs which 
form upon the fronds ; it is an easy matter to 
keep up a stock of some of the most useful 
kinds in this way by first pricking them off 
and potting when large enough. 


Pruning Honeysuckle (0. S. Folkestone).— 
Spring is the best time to prune, then simply cutting 
out the surplus wood and leaving as much as possible 
of the short spur-like growths of the previous sum¬ 
mer. Honeysuckles need very little pruning, and 
often do better if untouched by the knife. 


“The English Flower Garden and Home 
Grounds.”— New Edition, 10th, revised, with descrip¬ 
tions of all the best plants, trees, and shrubs, their 
culture and, arrangement, illustrated on wood. Cloth, 
medium, Svo., 15s .; post free, 15s. Gd. 

“The English Flower Garden” may also be 
had finely bound in 3 vole., half morocco, 2!*s. nett. Of 
all booksellers. 

Digitized by G(X »glC 


ROSES. 

POT ROSES. 

These are now in various stages of growth. 
Those in bud will need a little stimulant, such 
as guano, but onty in the case of plants whoso 
pots are full of roots. The plants making 
their foliage must be kept scrupulously clean. 
Aphides must be destroyed as soon as seen, 
or they soon make the plants look unhealthy. 
The X L All fumigating material in some 
form is the safest and best. Mildew must be 
guarded against by uniform culture, and the 
house must be kept on the dry side—that is, 
as far as atmospheric moisturo is concerned— 
as I find too much moisture quickly brings on 
this troublesome fungus. Campbell’s Vapor¬ 
iser will quickly dispel the mildew, but it 
is best to try and guard against its appear¬ 
ance if possible. Do not allow the plants to 
become too dry before watering; on the other 
hand, do not anticipate their requirements 
too much. Until leaf growth is well de¬ 
veloped, moisture is slowly absorbed, and a 
soddened state of the soil is sure to bring 
about failure. All specimen plants should be 
tied out as soon as pruned. Try and make 
the foundation a good shape, then the after- 
development will be all right. The main 
object in tying out is to secure light to every 
leaf, and unless this be maintained failure 
will follow. Iii an early forcing-house it is 
a good plan to stand in the house a few small 
specimen plants of the various climbing Tea 
and Noisette Roses, such as Mareelial Niel. 
W. A. Richardson, etc. These yield a fine 
lot of really beautiful flowers if treated gene¬ 
rously. After flowering, if cut back hard 
and grown in stove heat for the summer, they 
make fine growths for flowering another 
season. W. X. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Roses on balloon trellis.—I am anxious to have 
some wire lialloons of such Hoses as the Blush Rambler in 
the centre of my rose walk. Kindlv tell me if I should 
plant two or three to each balloon (about the height of an 
average man), and would it look well if one Uruss an 
Teplitz were to be planted among them on the same 
balloon to prolong the flowering period V Josephine. 

[We think the best Roses deserve a better 
fate than that of being trained on balloons. 
The natural form of foliage of the Rose, 
especially the China and Tea Roses, are so 
good, that you only take from their beauty by 
training them in that way. The Rose you 
mention we should plant as a bold group.] 


GARDEN PESTS AND FRIENDS. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

White grubs attacking roots of Vines.— 

I am sending a number of white grubs which were feeding 
on the roots of a young Vine. I Bhall lie very much 
obliged if you can tell me their name, and the beat means 
of destroying them. Five or six Vines in pots have 
already been killed by the ravages of these destructive 
pests.- Vink Grower. 

[The grubs you send are those of the black 
Vino weevil (Otiorrhynchus suleatus). In 
both states this insect is very injurious to 
plants. The beetle feeds on the shoots ami 
leaves, and the grubs on the roots. Not. 
only do they attack the root* of Vines, but 
also those of Ferns, Primulas, Cyclamens, 
Begonias, and other plants. It is of no use 
trying to kill the grubs when they are at the 
roots; the only way is to pick them out of 
the soil. The beetles feed only at night, as 
a rule, hiding themselves so cunningly during 
the day that they are very difficult to find. 
When they attack plants in pots, the plants 
should, if possible, be laid on their sides oil 
a white sheet. If this cannot bo done, ns in 
the case of climbing plants on the roof, the 
sheets must be laid under them, then, after 
it has been dark for an hour or so, throw a 
bright light suddenly on the plants. This 
will startle the weevils, and they will fall as 
if dead. If they do not, give the plants a 
shake and search them well. They can 
easily be picked off the sheet. Tying small 
bundles of hay or dry Moss to the stems 
makes good traps, as the weevils find them 
handy places to hide in.] 

Gooseberry mildew.— For the past two seasons 
m.v Gooseberry-trees have been affected by a blight or 
mildew, beginning on the berries and extending to the 
leaves and tips of young shoots. When rubbed the 
mildew peels off the berry, but entirely checks the 
growth, and makes the crop useless. Would you kindly 
suggest a remedy ? The trees are young and as yet not 
pruned.—N ew c astl k. 

[Your Gooseberries have, no doubt, been 
attacked by the Gooseberry-mildew. If any 
signs of it appear during the coming season, 
gather and burn all the infested fruit, and 
spray the bushes with £ oz. of sulphide of 
potassium dissolved in one gallon of water. 
As soon as the leaves begin to expand, spray 
with the above mixture, if there are signs of 
their being infested.] 


CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 


Pruning climbing Roses the first year 

(B. .SA—With the fast-growing Roses, as well as 
with those of slower growth, experience proves it to 
be best to cut back the growths rather severely the 
first season. The roots have less work given them 
to do, so that they can supply the buds or eyes re¬ 
maining with abundant sap, with the result that to¬ 
wards autumn some fine growths appear. As you do 
not object to sacrificing the few blooms you would 
possibly obtain, we should certainly advise cutting 
back the growths to about 12 inches or 18 inches of 
their base. Do not, however, do this just yet. 
About the end of March would be the right time, 
seeing that the plants have so recently been planted. 

Rose hedges can now be pruned, and this 
will take the form more of thinning out than 
shortening growths. If a hedgerow becomes 
bare at base, cut down one or two old growths 
on each plant. Sometimes this happens in 
hedges of Scotch Roses. Where growth is 
not satisfactory, a good dressing of manure 
on either side of hedge should now be forked 
in, and the hedge kept free of weeds. In May 
and June give a few liberal doses of manure. 

Roses from seed. —Rose-seed should be 
sown at once. Last summer was a wonder¬ 
ful one for ripening seed, and there should 
be some fine results. Break the seed-pods 
with a hammer, and pick out the seeds and 
sow at once. If the seeds become dry they 
will never germinate. Well-drained boxes 
of the following compost should be prepared : 
Cine part loam, one part leaf-soil, and a 
little sand, mixed well together. Press the 
soil firmly into the boxes. Lay the seeds 
on the surface, and push them under soil 
to a depth of about half-an-inch. Water 
well, and sprinkle surface with sand. Place 
in a gentle heat or a cold pit where mice 
cannot enter. The seedlings should appear 
in from six to eight weeks; some will do so 
in a month. Prick off the seedlings before 
they make the first leaf into thumb-pots of 
similar compost, and place on shelves near 
glass.— Rosa. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 


Chrysanthemums—stopping and timing 

(Floret ).—So far north as Northumberland, 
you labour under difficulties which growers 
in the south cannot appreciate, and we 
sympathise with you. The dates given below 
are for southern growers ; you should, there¬ 
fore, anticipate these dates by fully ten days, 
or rather more : — 


Name. 

Algernon Davis 
Mrs. A. H. Lee 
Mrs. A. T. Miller .. 
Mrs. W. Knox 
Mrue. G. Rivol 
Mont Blanc 

Viola. 

W. Wells 
Emily Mileham 
Hon. Mrs. Seymour 
Mme. Roberthur .. 
Mrs. J. Dunn 
Merstham Yellow .. 
Valerie Oreenham .. 
Buttercup (inc.) 
Bessie Godfrey 
Chas. Davis .. 

F. S. Vallia .. 
General Hutton 


Henry Perkins 


Lady Hnnham 
Miss Elsie Fulton .. 
Mme. P. Radaelli .. 
Mrs. G. Mileham .. 
Yiviond Morel 
Dorothy S. Eady .. 


When to pinch 
plants. 

Early April 
Natural break 
First of March .. 
Natural break .. 
Mid-April 

First week in April.. 
End of March .. 
End of March 
Third week in May.. 
Third week in May.. 
Mid-March 
Natural break .. 
First week in April.. 
End of March 
Natural break .. 
Natural break 
Third week in April 
Natural break .. 
Early March 
Propagate in Feb- N 
ruary, stop end j 
of April, and 
take first buds I 
afterwards ._ ) 
Third week in April 
Natural break .. 

Mid-May 
Natural break 
Third week in April 
Natural break .. 


Which birds 
to retain. 
1st crown 
1st crown 
2nd crown 
2nd crown 
1st crown 
2nd crown 
2nd crown 
1st crown 
1st crown 
1st crown 
let crown 
2nd crown 
2nd crown 
2nd crown 
1st crown 
1st crown 
2nd crown 
1st crown 
2nd crown 


2nd crown 
1st crown 
1st crown 
1st crown 
2nd crown 
1st crown 


Growers in the north of England should, in 
all cases where a natural break and first 
crown-bud are recommended, pinch their 
plants about May 12th, if the plants have 
not made a break by that date. Growers in 
the south pinch their plants ten days later, 
if necessary,—E- G. 


UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




March 3, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


s 


ORCHIDS. 

SCHOMBURGKIA KIMBALLIANA 
CHIONODORA. 

Schomburgkia 8 are strong-growing epiphy¬ 
tal Orchids, and are well worth attention by 
Orchid enthusiasts who desire to possess 
plants that produce flowers distinct in form 
and general character. It is to he regretted 
that the plants are not so extensively culti¬ 
vated by amateurs as they deserve. One 


! loose panicle at the extremity of tall spikes, 
are chaste and beautiful. The name 
j “Chionodora ” (Snow Gift) refers to the 
I colour of the flowers. The type species, S. 
Kimballiana, has rose-purple flowers. The 
variety here illustrated is probably the spe¬ 
cies described by the late Professor Reichen- 
bach in the Gardeners* Chronicle more 
than twenty years ago, but apparently only 
from dried flowers sent home by the col¬ 
lector ; and probably since that period no 
plant has been seen in bloom under cultiva¬ 



Schomburj^kia Kimballiana chionodora. From a photograph in Sir Trevor Lawrence’s garden 
at Burford Lodge, Dorking. 


reason alleged for their not being so much 
grown is the large size of the plants, another 
is that they do not flower regularly, also that 
they are slow of increase. Against this, it is 
obvious, from the accompanying illustration, 
that they are handsome, and some of the 
varieties of striking aspect. The individual 
blooms last a long time in a fresh condition, 
and, when suspended from the roof, the 
plants occupy but little space. 

The hollow, horn like pseudo-bulbs are 
almost identical with those of the old and 
well-known S. tibiejnis. The white flowers 
of S. Kimballiana chionodora, aranged in a 

Digitized by (jQL 


tion until Sir Trevor Lawrence's plant was 
exhibited at the Royal Horticultural So¬ 
ciety’s meeting in December, 1905, when it 
received an award of merit from the Orchid 
Committee. This plant was imported by 
Messrs. Sander from Central America in 
1886, and was described as a “white variety.” 
It has been found that species .of this genus 
will readily cross with Cattleya and Lrelia, 
and from which many distinct and interesting 
hybrids may be confidently expected. 

These Schomburgkias should be grown in 
shallow, rather small Teak wood baskets, as 
they do not succeed if there is much material 


about them, the roots preferring to push 
themselves out into the air. The compost 
should consist of strong, wiry peat, with all 
the fine soil sifted out, and a handful of 
small crocks mixed with it. This material 
should be pressed firmly around the base of 
the plants, and a few heads of living Sphag¬ 
num Moss pricked in over the surface. Very 
little water is needed at the root until the 
young pseudo-bulbs are about half made, 
when copious waterings arc necessary when¬ 
ever the compost appears in the least dry. 
When growth is completed, afford less ihcis- 
ture, and place the plants in full sunshine, 
but whore plenty of fresh air may reach them. 
This greater degree of heat and extra ventila¬ 
tion will harden and mature the pseudo¬ 
bulbs, and tend to the production of strong 
flower-spikes. During the growing season 
the lightest position available in the East 
Indian house or plant stove will suit its 
requirements W. H. W. 


FRUIT. 

PLUM GOLIATH. 

It would seem that, though valuable for 
cooking, this Plum now receives but little 
attention cither from the nurserymen or the 
planters, if one may judge by its frequent 
omission from catalogues. Presumably, the 
wide range of variety available for planting 
and covering the whole extent of the Plum 
season accounts for the loss of an old and use¬ 
ful kind, such as that above-named. “ Dor¬ 
set,” in his interesting notes on page 629, re¬ 
fers to a vigorous wall-trained specimen grow 
ing in this garden in the sixties. The tree 
does not now exist, and the variety, though it 
must have made a good impression at the 
time, was not replaced by a young specimen. 
The probability is, a newer sort replaced it. 
The experience “Dorset” gained by sending 
a cooking Plum for the dessert has been re¬ 
peated by many—not by accident, but by de¬ 
sign. As in his case, no complaint about 
quality has been made. There are many of 
the cooking Plums of to-day that, when full 
ripe, are useful for dessert. To a great many 
size has an even greater attraction than 
quality. Pond’s Seedling, admitted only as a 
cooking fruit, is, when used for the dessert, 
highly praised by some. It is not only so 
as regards Plums, but other fruits also. One 
has only to mention Gros Colman among 
Grapes to illustrate the varying tastes. Acc¬ 
ording to Dr. Hogg’s “Fruit Manual,” 
Goliath has, like so many other attractive 
fruits, several synonyms, which are always 
more or less confusing and deceptive. Wil- 
mot’s Late Orleans is one, this particular de¬ 
finition being representative, as affecting the 
character more than the size of the Plum. 
None of the Orleans Plums are considered 
of high-class merit, judged from a dessert 
standard, yet they are extremely popular 
among consumers. There is no doubt, too, 
that wall cultivation enhances the flavour of 
some, if not all, Plums, and this particular 
section would seem to be particularly in¬ 
fluenced bv this favoured phase of culture. 
To this, then, may be duo the absence of 
complaint, which was feared in the instance 
quoted by “Dorset” so many years ago. 

W. Strugnell. 

Rood Ashton Gardens. 


THE KEEPING OF PEARS. 

To the Editor of Gardening Illustrated. 

Sir,—I have felt much interest in the re¬ 
cent articles and letters on favourite Pears, 
especially as I grow here all the sorts referred 
to—Glou Morceau, Doyenne du Cornice, 
Comte de Lamy, and Winter Nelis, and in¬ 
variably get good crops of each. My difficulty 
is in their keeping qualities, as T do not grow 
for market. Passing yesterday (January 23rd) 
one of the large fruit shops in London, I was 
surprised to see Glou Morceau and Winter 
Nelis exhibited in the window in splendid con¬ 
dition, and, need I add, at a very high price : 
but this latter does not concern my present 
inquiry. I havo a large dry and airy cellar, 
around which are arranged sixty fruit trays of 
the most modern construction, yet I am un¬ 
able to keep any Pears after Christmas, and 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 








10 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


March 2, 1907 


very few until then. The Winter Nelis had 
all ripened, and begun to shrivel by the end 
of November, whilst the Glou Morceau went 
“sleepy ” by the dozen during December. 
Can you or any of your readers kindly suggest 
what should be done? None were picked 
until they began to drop from the trees late in 
October. 

Bough-ton, Maidstone. A. A. Tindall. 


FEEDING FRUIT-TREES. 

In manuring fruit-trees the great aim of the 
grower should be to do so from the surface. 
That encourages the formation of fine, or 
fibrous, roots, always the best feeders and 
fruit-wood producers. They are also in that 
way kept in the sweeter or aerated soil, hence 
not only is fruitfulness engendered, but 
canker, insects, Lichens, and fungus are 
avoided. Whenever these evils are present in 
trees it is evident the roots are deep, and in 
sour, poor soil. All the dressings in the 
world will not compensate for bad root action. 
Lifting and replanting trees more shallow or 
in fresh soil, and the practice of root pruning 
may seem to be difficult, and even arduous 
operations, but they often constitute the only 
possible remedies. It is well amateur gar¬ 
deners should understand that whilst all 
ordinary trees are planted to become strong 
and leafy, and roots to that end may go 
where they like, fruit-trees are planted speci¬ 
ally to produce fruit. Hence it is found that 
the conditions favourable for one end may be 
very much the reverse for the other; indeed, 
not only are fruit-trees generally less fitted 
to endure the rough treatment meted out to 
timber-trees, but the very fact that they are 
to be primarily fruit producers renders them 
less fitted to bear rough treatment. The 
finest samples of Apples and Pears seen to¬ 
day are the product of high-class culture, 
careful treatment, liberal feeding in poor 
soils, and of such condition of root action as 
is the reverse of that commonly prevailing 
where fruit culture is not understood, and 
special care for the trees is not practised.— 
D. K. S. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Vine for cold house.— Can you recommend a good 
white Grape for a cold house Y Also, should it be planted 
now? Would be better inside or outside—that is to say, 
the root?—E. W. 

[You cannot do better than get Foster’s 
Seedling or Royal Muscadine, getting what is 
known in the trade as a “planter.” Plant it 
at once—that is, if you have the border 
ready. An out-side border is the best, if there 
is convenience for making such. You can¬ 
not plant in the natural soil, as drainage, 
etc., must be attended to, and suitable soil 
put in for the Vine to grow in.] 

Apple French Crab. -This, referred to as 
Winter Greening, page 710, has been nearly 
banished from many gardens by the many 
new showy soft Apples of the Codlin type 
that all come in together, and must be used 
almost as soon as gathered from the tree. It 
is toward the spring, when forced Rhubarb 
is coming in, that we look round the fruit- 
room, and do not find many very firm, solid 
Apples. This, however, is one that you can 
always rely on, as, with a little care, it will 
keep until midsummer. It is one of the 
hardest and heaviest of all the Apples I grow, 
and may safely be left on the tree until quite 
the end of November. Although it is so hard 
and firm, many people use it for dessert, 
especially those who find imported Apples too 
soft, or woolly. Some years ago, when grow¬ 
ing Apples on their own roots was very much 
talked about, I planted several good large 
brunches of this kind, and nearly every one 
rooted well. It makes a good bush tree, and 
very rarely fails to carry a good crop of fruit. 
—J. G., Gosport. 

Orchard house. —Be careful with the ven¬ 
tilation. Avoid causing cold currents. Use 
water of the same temperature as the house 
for all purposes. Tap the stems of the trees 
with a padded stick when the trees are in 
flower about the middle of the forenoon, when 
the pollen is dry. I have sometimes given a 
sprinkling w-ith the syringe during a spell of 
dry weather to assist the setting, but never 
when dull. 

Digitized by Go ^lC 


VEGETABLES. 

ALLOTMENT CROPPING. 
Necessarily because of their comparatively 
unprotected state, crops on an allotment can 
hardly be of the same nature as can be found 
in a home garden. Still, I have seen in 
myriads of cases not only bush fruits, Goose¬ 
berries, Currants, Raspberries, and Straw¬ 
berries well grown on such exposed plots, but 
generally untouched by others than the 
grower, strong testimony to the honesty and 
honour found among allotment holders. In 
very many cases also such flowers as Roses, 
Dahlias, Carnations, hardy perennials, 
annuals, and Chrysanthemums are grown, 
and seem also to be freely respected. So 
much it is satisfactory to know, and speci¬ 
ally so to the amateur, who naturally wishes 
to have such products as he certainly would 
have more plentifully had he a home garden. 
But fruits and flowers of the kinds mentioned 
have their seasons, and these are soon over. 
That is the case with most vegetables, it is 
true, but then there is such great variety in 
vegetables, and because of that it is found 
possible to have some kinds to furnish their 
valuable food all the year round. Thus, 
whilst fruit and flowers may occupy, perhaps, 
one-eighth of an allotment, the remainder is 
properly devoted to vegetables that from 
them may be obtained produce over as long a 
season as is possible. At this time of the 
year, perhaps, one-third of an allotment’s 
vegetable quarters may bo cropped with 
winter Greens, young Cabbages, Turnips, 
Celery, Onions, and Spinach, with a few 
herbs. Later, winter Greens, Turnips, 
Celery, and Spinach will be cleared off, and 
the spaces occupied by those crops utilised 
for late Potatoes, Beet, dwarf Beon6, or other 
successional crops. To that end, if the 
round were previously well manured, a deep 
igging of the soil, and adding some fish 
guano or sulphate of ammonia, may suffice to 
carry very good crops. Much of the success 
in these cases would depend on the depth to 
which the ground had previously been 
worked. It is these late-sown or planted 
summer crops which to withstand heat and 
droughts do so well or so badly, just us their 
roots can go deep and find moisture and 
manure to sustain growth, or cannot, be¬ 
cause soil is shallow worked, and roots being 
near the surface soon dry up. But whilst in 
the late spring it may not be possible to 
trench deeply and liberally manure, no time 
should be lost, if not already done, with all 
the uncropped ground, of getting it trenched 
and manured, especially putting manure 
down well to encourage deep rooting. 

Trenching is necessarily laborious work, 
and need not be done every year. A wise 
worker will trench a third of his ground every 
year, so that in three years the whole is thus 
treated. That course makes each winter’s 
work, therefore, comparatively light, and 
should be done earlier in the winter than 
now, because in so doing the soil becomes 
more firm for cropping than is the case when 
done so late as now. A good result of regular 
trenching also is that after ground has been 
thus treated twico the bottom soil each time 
being well broken up and manured, yet left 
below, in future the bottom soil may be 
.brought to the top, quite reversing it, thus in 
time making the ground doubly productive. 
When such complete trenching takes place, 
so that the bottom soil is thrown out, even 
greater depth can be obtained by forking up 
other 6 inches of the hard soil bottom. It is 
very difficult to impress the great need for 
deep working of soil on both amateur and 
cottage allotment holders. They so often 
shelter themselves behind the objection that 
the subsoil is useless. If they will, however, 
but gradually break it up, and thus aerate it, 
also adding plenty of manure, they will in 
time find that far from being useless it is 
highly productive soil. In high-class vege¬ 
table gardens soil is commonly worked by 
trenching to a depth of 3 feet, yet there was 
a time when the lower soil was as poor and 
barren as could well be. 

In cropping an allotment one half the area 
should be devoted to Potatoes. These, how¬ 
ever, should never be unduly crowded. The 


rest of the area may well be equally divided 
between crops that produce their food above 
round — Peas, Beans, Tomatoes, Cauli- 
owers, Cabbages, Marrows, Spinach, and 
similar things—and roots, such as Beet, 
Carrots, Parsnips, Onions, Salsify, Turnips, 
Artichokes, or others of such nature. No 
hard rule can be laid down, especially as 
workers’ tastes in these products differ. 

A. D. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Crowing Tomatoes In a studio 

(Fruiterer ).—Provided you can give ample 
veutilation in the summer, and it has a floor 
that is impervious to water, there seems no 
reason why you should not grow Tomatoes in 
it very well. You would have to grow them 
in large flower-pots, those 10 inches across 
the top, one plant in each, or in boxes, 
15 inches by 10 inches, and 10 inches deep, 
two plants in each. You would have to pro¬ 
vide saucers for the pots and tin trays for 
the boxes, or otherwise the water would go 
through the floor or rot the boards. You 
would have also for some fifty plants to get in 
a cart-load of good soil, 2 lb* loam, the rest 
old decayed manure, wood-ashes, bone-dust, 
and soot, all well mixed, filling pots or boxes 
ready for the plants by the middle of April, 
when you might safely plant them. The 
plants you should purchase when strong, and 
2 inches in height, from a florist. Plant 
them firmly, and put a stick 5 feet out of the 
soil to each one. Ample ventilation is needed 
to ensure free setting of the bloom. 

Potato Blue Giant.— This coloured Potato 
must not be confounded with the old Jersey 
Blue, as seems to have been done in one in¬ 
stance. It is a product of the Continent, 
raised by Herr Paulsen, from whom stock 
was obtained and grown at Reading last year. 
It is so strong a grower that its haulm will 
reach to 6 feet in height. The tubers, whilst 
having blue skins, have white flesh, which is 
of fair edible quality. The tubers generally 
run very large, and are very ungainly in 
shape ; a very good cattle variety, but not to 
be commended for domestic use. The variety 
has of late gained some notoriety, because it 
has been alleged to be identical with the 
Commersoni Violet, which a French raiser, 
M. Labegeire, holds to be a clear product by 
mutation from the wild Commersoni species, 
a type having small white tubers, and pro¬ 
duced chiefly on long stolons, whereas those of 
the C. Violet are found close home. No 
doubt several diverse tests of these two 
assumed varieties will be conducted this year. 
I hope to do so in one case, and later cook 
tubers also.—A. D. 

Spinach Beet.— The value of this excellent 
substitute for Spinach to those who, like my¬ 
self, have a cold, heavy soil to deal with, can¬ 
not well be over-estimated in a winter like 
the present, when the true winter Spinach 
has suffered severely from the effects of the 
prolonged frost. The Spinach Beet is ex¬ 
tremely hardy, and, if seed is sown in good 
time in the autumn, the plants become firmly 
established, and well furnished with an 
abundance of broad, succulent leaves (which 
is the part of the plant used for cooking) ere 
winter sets in. Last autumn I had several 
rows, some twenty yards in length, sown as 
usual, and, as matters have turned out, it 
was fortunate I did so, otherwise there would 
have been nothing to take the place of the 
winter Spinach proper now. It is of easy 
culture, and luxuriates in heavy, well- 
manured ground. If thinned out to 1 foot 
apart in the drills, each plant becomes a full- 
sized example, and will yield a quantity of 
leaves throughout the winter months—in fact, 
when given good culture, a very few plants 
suffice to furnish enough leaves wherewith to 
fill a good-sized vegetable basket. Except 
in cold weather, growth is never at a stand¬ 
still. so that, if a good breadth is grown, there 
is little likelihood of a scarcity occurring. 
Should space be limited at the time of sowing, 
the Spinach Beet can he transplanted if the 
plantlets are carefully lifted, and attended to 
for a few days afterwards, should the soil 
be dry or weather bright and sunnj r . In this 
ease the seed should be sown not too thickly, 
but close enough, so that one or two drills, 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




llAncft 2. 1007 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


as the ease may be, will supply the required 
number of plants. Under ordinary eondi- 1 
tions, it is best to distribute the seed thinly 
in the drills, and, if the soil is at all dry, to 
give it a good watering prior to sowing.— 

A. W. 

garden work. 

Conservatory. —Go over the climbers and 
prune and train. If the house is large and 
lofty, there will be a good deal of scope for 
climbing plants, and there will be pillars to 
decorate ; possibly also a back wall to fur¬ 
nish. A wall covered with Camellias is very 
effective in winter, and their dark green 
background acts as a foil for the flowering 
plants in summer. I have seen walls effec¬ 
tively covered with the Citrus family. 
Oranges, Limes, Lemons, and Shaddocks, if 
planted when young, are easily trained to 
cover a wall surface. Myrtles form a nice 
fragrant background for the cold conserva¬ 
tory or unheated corridor, and are just as 
easily trained to a flat surface as the Orange 
and Camellia. Very fragrant is the Helio¬ 
trope planted out in the conservatory against 
a walL or over an arch. At this season there 
are no flowers, as the plant is now recupera¬ 
ting, and should be pruned, cleaned, and 
trained, and by-and-bye it will break into 
growth, and, under the influence of sunshine, 
flower-buds will form, and all through the 
summer it will fill the house with fragrance, 
and, if pruned back a little in August, to get 
new growth, it will flower all through the 
autumn. Where fragrance is appreciated, 
Pittosporum Tobira may be planted against a 
wall, as the wdiite flowers are very sweet. To 
furnish the upper part of the house there are 
Passion-flowers, Tacsonias, climbing Hoses, 
Jasmines, Habrothamnus, Cobiea scandens 
(variegated), Plumbago capensis, which 
should be pruned in rather hard after flower¬ 
ing. Mandevilla suaveolens is very fragrant 
in summer, and if there is a cool corner, 
make a bed of peat and plant a couple of 
Lapagerias (white and red). In time these 
will run up into the roof and hang their 
large, fleshy flowers about in profusion. A 
house of climbers well managed is exceedingly 
interesting. 

Forcing-house. —Every bit of space in this 
department is, or should be, now fully occu¬ 
pied. Things will be moving rapidly now. 
We want more sunshine for many things, and 
shall doubtless have it in due course. Every 
bit of soft growth long enough to make a 
cutting will root now in heat, perferably 
plunged in bottom-heat, except Geraniums, 
which do best in a dry atmosphere. Those 
who want to increase their Roses may graft 
now, if they have stocks ready for working. 

I prefer to graft on the roots, as when the 
graft is placed on a moist root as thick as 
one’s little finger, potted so as to cover the 
union, and plunged in bottom-heat, there will 
be strong young plants ready to plant in June. 
When one grafts on the roots there are fewer 
suckers. It is necessary in all grafting that 
the stock should be a little in advance of the 
scion, therefore only dormant buds should be 
used. In this kind of grafting what is termed 
whip grafting is best, and there is no neces¬ 
sity to use grafting wax or clay. Simply fit 
the scion on the stock, so that the barks of 
both meet at least on one side, and bind the 
two together with reasonable firmness, and 
there will be very few failures. All seeds, 
such as Petumas. Verbenas, and Begonias, 
which are slow in germinating, should be 
sown immediately, if not already done. 

Tomatoes in cool-houses.— It is too soon 
to plant cool-houses, but the seeds should he 
sown so as to have strong plants to set out in 
April, as by that time, if the plants are 
strong and hardy, they are not likely to be 
injured by a low temperature, even supposing 
there is no artificial heat. It used to be 
thought necessary to change the soil every 
three years or so, but the crop does not pay 
for that now. The most that anybody does 
now is to dig trenches a foot wide and a 
spade deep, and fill up with fresh soil, with 
which a little manure and old plaster have 
been mixed. The lime and a sprinkling of 
ashes tend to keep off disease, and the 
plants are sturdy and'tfoe flowers set! freely. 


Do not crowd the plants, if you want a full young trees should be bought every year and 
crop. As regards varieties, unless you have got into training, so that we may have a 
a special favourite of your own, try Carter’s young bearing tree to take the place of an old 


Sunrise and Challenge. 


one. Figs may be uncovered now, but leave 


Ferns under glass.— In some cases it will the pruning a little longer. Nuts and Filberts 
be necessary to remove old fronds which have may be pruned on the Kentish system, keep- 
lost their green tint. Maiden-hairs which ir.g an open centre and encouraging the 
have been supplying fronds for decoration feathery spray thinly. 

will be better cut down. After the new Vegetable garden. — Sow successional 
fronds start away from the base repotting crops of everything likely to be required, 
may be done, and division, if necessary, to Peas and Beans may be sown in the open 
increase the stock. When Maiden-hairs have quarters now. Clear away the covering from 
become exhausted by much picking from in Globe Artichokes, but leave a good mulch of 
winter, if there are young seedling plants manure round the stools. Those who want 
coming, it will be better to throw out the an early dish or two have, doubtless, kept a 
worst of the old plants. Those which bear few rods in pots, and will now help them on 
spores thinly, or not at all, will be propa- in heat. Early Peas are always appreciated, 
gated by division. The most popular Maiden- and those who have room under glass may 
hair is Adiantuin Farleyense, and I have either bring them on in pots or sow in rows 
never been able to find any spores on this, in the border of the Tomato-house. The 
and, therefore, stock has to be worked up house can be used for Tomatoes later, as the 
by division, and if healthy stock is wanted, rows of Peas may be so arranged as to leave 
it is better to divide when young. When old room for the Tomatoes to be planted. Peas 
plants are cut up, they are a long time get- must have plenty of light and free ventila¬ 
ting established, and this refers to all Ferns tion. Lift remainder of Jerusalem Arti- 
to which it may be necessary to divide for chokes, and replant enough for next season’s 
stock. The common Ferns, for the most part, supply. The Chinese Artichoke is not likely 
produce spores so freely that all old plants, to become popular, as the crop is too light 
when exhausted, maybe thrown away. This to be profitable in competition with other 
is a good time to work up stock Selaginellas roots, but those who want a change may grow 
and to fill baskets with creeping Ferns. The a few rows of it. Plant in rows 2 feet apart 
most useful of these are the Nephrolepises, and 8 inches apart in the rows ; cover about 
Lj'godiums, and Aspleniums. 3 inches deep. Sow main crop of Onions as 

Forcing Strawberries. —To keep up a sue- soon as the ground is ready. Many sow 
cession of ripe fruit, fresh relayB of plants Onions under glass in January, and plant out 
should be introduced, according to the de- in April. E. Hobday. 

mand, every fortnight. The shelves in the - 

orchard-house and other cool-houses may be 

filled now from the cold-pits. There are THE COMZNO WEEK'S WORK, 

generally shelves in vineries and Peach- Extracts from a Garden Diary. 

houses where many plants are forced. To March J,th.— After the frost the roller has 


filled now from the cold-pits. There are THE COMZNO WEEK'S WORK, 

generally shelves in vineries and Peach- Extracts from a Garden Diary. 

houses where many plants are forced. To March J,th.— After the frost the roller lias 
keep down red-spider and other insects, use been used on lawns and walks. Wherever 
the syringe freely on fine days. Plants in there are weeds in walks or roads weed-killer 
flower should be gone over daily with the w [\\ b e use d when the weather is settled. We 
rabbit’s tail or camel-hair brush, paying have always found weed-killers more effective 
special attention to the strongest flowers, and vvhen used in dry weather, and the edgings of 
when enough fruits are set for a crop cut off Box and turf escape injury. Mowing machines 
all the small fruits and late flowers. Do not have been examined, and where repairs are 
over-water in the early stages, but feed liber- needed, sent to makers. 

ally when the fruits are swelling. Do not March 5th. —Planted more early Potatoes 
clog up the soil with strong liquids. and p eas< an d sowed a few rows of Onions. 

Outdoor garden. —Cuttings of white and The bulk of our Onion crop is now in boxes, 
yellow Marguerites, when soft, will root now ready for planting out when the weather con- 
in bottom-heat, as will also young shoots of ditions are favourable. This usually takes 
Koeniga maritima. Useful for edging and place early in April. Parsnips are sown out- 
making a pretty close-growing groundwork side, as are also Salsify and Scorzonera. 
for Lobelia Queen Victoria, or any other Made up a hot-bed for main sowing of 
bright flowers which requires a foil to show Celery. 

it off well. Those who do much subtropical March Cth.— Sowed Asters, Stocks, Mari- 
bedding should lose no time in sowing seeds golds, Zinnias, and Salpiglossis in boxes 
of Castor-oils and other things of annual dura- under glass. We have also a collection of 
tion. Cannas make beautiful masses planted Antirrhinums of the best varieties. These 
in rich soil. Old roots may now be divided, make excellent beds; yellow, white, red, and 
and each piece potted singly and started in pink forms come fairly true from seed when 
heat. These will not be planted before June, obtained from a good source. There is a 
and they should be strong when planted, as good deal of potting to do now, and a supreme 
the season for these things is short. There effort is being made to keep up with the 
are several variegated Abutilons that may be WO rk. 

struck now from cuttings of the young wood. March 7th. —Nets are all ready for covering 
They are very effective in mixed beds. They wall-trees, but will be kept handy till the 
are charming planted thinly among dark- earliest blossoms expand. According to our 
flowered Heliotrope. The flower garden plan record, the first blossoms of Apricots open 
should be overhauled now, and the necessary about the 12th of March. Some of the hardi- 
alterations mode and the stock prepared, est plants have been moved to cold pits, to 
Lobelias, Petunias, Verbenas, Phlox Drum- relieve the pressure in the houses. They will, 
mondi should be sown at once. Sow seeds of course, be covered up at night. Made up 


of Salvia patens, and divide and pot offsets of 
scarlet Lobelia. 

Fruit garden. —Bring up all arrears of 


a hot-bed for Melons, and sowed seeds of 
Melons and Cucumbers. 

March 8th.— Planted a large bed of Seaknle 


nd, the flowers sefl freely. 

CjO gle 


pruning, nailing, or tying, and washing cuttings and sowed Asparagus. Several rows 
among fruit-trees. From force of circum- of Asparagus outside have been sheltered 
stances most of us sometimes have arrears of with glass. These fill the blanks between the 
work to bring up, but I have generally found forced produce and the outside unprotected 
if we keep pegging away things soon right beds. Potted more Tuberoses for succes- 
themselves. 1 am assuming the nets for sional blooming. These will be kept on the 
Peaches, Apricots, etc., have been looked dry side till growth begins. Sowed seeds of 
over, and the necessary repairs seen to, to be Clivia nobilis ; seeds obtained from own 
ready when wanted. If poles are wanted, plants. 

they ought to be secured. In the country we March 9lh. —Planted Shallots and Garlic, 
have used Ash poles, but I have seen Bam We do not want much Garlic, but must grow 
boos long enough for the work, and they are a little to meet any sudden call in the 
not expensive, and are very lasting. It re- kitchen. Repotted Ferns and re-arranged 
quires some resolution to grub up old fruit- plants in fernery. Some of the old exhausted 
trees, but there are many old trees in both specimens have been thrown out, to make 
garden and orchard that should either be room for the young growing plants, and 
grubbed up or the tops cut off and regrafted, others have been divided to make stock. Cut 
Old trees on avails that are not paying for down a few leggy Dracaenas and put in the 
their keep should be cleared out. A few cuttings as single jointst; plunged in hot-bed. 



12 


March 2 , 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


BEES. 


Removing bees to new hives—I bought two 
hives or bets two years since, and they have done well. 
These were in old home-made hives when they were bought, 
and are still in them. I should like to put them into better 
hives, but am afraid they would not make much honey 
for a year if I did. No. 1 hive is very strong : I took last 
year 61 lb. of honey from it No. 2 hive is not so good : I 
took 29 lb. from it. I left each of them 20 lb. for the 
w-inter. I had a swarm from each last year. Would you 
advise moving them, and what would be the best time to 
do it?—J. J. S. 

[If the hives your bees now occupy have 
not movable frames, you would experience 
much difficulty in transferring the bees to 
new hives. If, however, your old hives con¬ 
tain standard frames, the operation would be 
simple. Place the new hives where the old 
ones now stand, and transfer the combs and 
adhering bees to them, placing them in the 
same relative positions they occupied in the 
old hives. But, seeing you have done so well 
with your present hives, it would be advis¬ 
able to let the bees remain in them, and let 
their swarms of next season occupy new- 
frame hives. The combs in your hives arc, 
no doubt, old, and dark in colour, and it 
would pay better to let swarms work out new 
combs from comb foundation than to put old 
combs into new hives. Strong first swarms 
often secure a far larger amount of honey 
than do old stocks. When the weather be¬ 
comes settled and warm, gently feed your 
bees to encourage brood rearing, and so 
secure strong, early swarms.] 


BIRDS. 

Death of zebra finch [B. M.).— Inflamma¬ 
tion of the lungs appears to have been the 
cause of death in this case, probably the re¬ 
sult of a chill. Although these pretty little 
birds are fairly hardv, and will thrive in con¬ 
finement for a number of years, the severe 
weather and sudden changes of temperature 
we have experienced of late have been very 
trying to them. This complaint is one of 
the most frequent to which caged birdr. are 
subject; but those living in a garden aviary 
are less liable to be attacked by it. The only 
chance of saving a bird suffering from inflam¬ 
mation of the lungs is to keep it, night and 
day, in a warm, moist atmosphere. Millet 
and Canary-seed should form the diet of 
these birds, with a little Chickwoed or Water¬ 
cress occasionally. Yew would not have the 
same injurious effect on birds as it has on 
cattle. The berries of the Yew are whole¬ 
some, and are freely partaken of hv wild 
birds during the winter. You must carefully 
guard against the temperature of the warmed 
compartment of your aviary becoming too 
high.—S. S. G. 


LAW AND CUSTOM. 


Debt owing by person now in India.—A 

year ago I sold about £2 15s. worth of fruit to a customer. 
He did not pay at the time, and has since gone to India, 
and will remain there. How can I recover the money?— 
John Bknoko. 

[As the amount is only £2 15s., I 
think you will be well advisee! to write it off 
as bad, and try to forget it as soon as pos¬ 
sible. The cost involved in suing a man out 
there would more than swallow up anything 
you could recover. The debt could be sued 
upon here within six years of the date upon 
which it was contracted, so vou still have five 
years before you, and during that time lie 
might return. If you know his address out 
there, it might be well to write, and intimate 
that, unless he remits you the money, you will 
endeavour to find someone who purchases 
debts to take it over from you and sue him 
there. That might possibly bring you the 
money—but do not go further. —Barrister.] 

Removing Rose-trees, etc. I am about to leave 
my present, residence after six years’ lease (£35). 1 have 
upwards of 100 Rose-trees, climbers, Ramblers, standards, 
and dwarfs or bushes. Will you kindly tell me if I am 
legally entitled to remove these, also bush fruit-trees and 
flower-roots ?— Onoto. 


[No; you cannot remove any of the plants. 
When once planted, such are annexed to the 
freehold, and belong to the landlord. A land¬ 
lord will, however, allow a tenant to remove 


the plants if pernmaipn be askedi 
if he thinks proper, rcfirae to 


(Kt'ii. n 

gte 


He may, 


CORRESPON DENCE. 

Questions— Queries and answers are inserted in 
0akdf.ning free of charge if correspondents follow these, 
rules: All communications should be clearly and concisely 
written on one side of the jxiper only, and addressed to 
the Editor of Gardening, 17, Furniralstreet, llolborn, 
London, E.C. Letters on business should be sent to the 
1'l'RLISilEK. The. name and address of the sender arc 
required in addition to any designation he may desire to 
be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, 
each should be on a separate piece of paper, and not more 
than three queries should lx- sent at a time. Correspon¬ 
dents should bear in mind that, as Gardkmno has to be 
sent to press some time in ad ranee of date, queries cannot 
always be replied to in the. issue immediately following 
the- receipt of their communication. We do not reply to 
queries Off post. 

Naming fruit. —Readers who desire nur help in 
naming fruit should bear in mind that several specimens 
in different stages of colour and size, of the. same kind 
greatly assist in its detennination. We have rcceited from 
several correspondents single specimens of fruits for 
naming, these in many cases bciiuj unripe, and other¬ 
wise ]tnor. The differ cnees between varieties of frttits are 
in tunny cases so trifling that it is necessary that three, 
specimens of each kind should be sent. HV can undertake 
to name only four varieties at a time, and these only when 
the above directions are observed. 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

Rose in poor condition (Mrs. E. Smith).—From 
your description we should say that the soil is ex¬ 
hausted and also that feeding is necessary. Give the 
plant a good dressing of cow-manure, or water freely 
with liquid-manure, having first thoroughly soaked 
the growth, if very dry, with clear water. 

Mamniillaria (F. M. C .).—The plant you send is 
a species of Mammillaria belonging to the Cactus 
family. You have evidently given the wrong soil and 
kept it too wet after potting It, hence the decay. 
The Mammillarias like a sweet fibrous loam, with 
plenty of broken bricks or cinders. During the winter 
they must be kept quite dry at the roots. If you 
potted your plants and then deluged the soil with 
water, little wonder is it that it has rotted oil like 
the specimen you send. 

Chrysanthemum F. S- Vallis showing an 

eye (J. Metcalfe ).—This variety is seen in better 
condition when first-crown buds are retained from a 
natural break. Second-crown buds are too late in 
developing, as a rule, as your own experience with 
this variety has proved. Duds retained during the 
third week in August do remarkably well, while 
blooms resulting from a bud selection made a fort 
night later lack substance, and usually develop with 
an “eye." Cuttings inserted in January generally 
develop their flrst-crown buds in a natural manner 
during the third week in August. 

Violets diseased (A Herefordshire Render ).—The 
leaves are attacked by one of the Violet fungi, which 
vegetating within theeutiele of the leaf, is not affected 
by any external application. If the plants are badly 
attacked the best way will be to burn them and start 
again with clean plants. If only a few leaves are 
affected, pluck them off and burn them os soon as 
the disease is noticed, lly close attention to this 
you may in time in great measure overcome it. You 
may, by syringing with sulphur solution mixed with 
soft-soap, prevent the maturing of the germs of the 
fungus, hut ns these arc situated on the under sur¬ 
face of the leaves they are not easily reached. 

Potting Lilium auratum (-Vo Signature ).—Pot 
iil> at once, tilling the pot only about two-thirds, and 
barely covering the bulb. Stand the pot in a cold- 
frame and cover with 0 inches of Cocoa-nut-fibre. If 
the potting soil was fairly moist no water will be re¬ 
quired until growth begins. Remove the fibre from 
time to time to see if the plant has started, and 
when this is the case the fibre should be cleared off 
arid the plant transferred to a cool greenhouse. As 
soon as the bulb is growing freely fill up the pot 
gradually with some loamy soil to which have been 
added some well-rotted manure, u little peat or leaf- 
mould, and coarse silver-sand. 

Climbing Roses not flowering (IF. .V. M.).— 
You must have patience with such Roses as E. Veyret 
Hermanns, for sometimes it does not blossom for 
three or four years. It makes prodigious growth, 
and needs ample space, so that the growths may he 
spread out to the right and left, if possible. All the 
wood left uninjured by frost (i.c., that which has 
white pith instead of brown) should be nailed out. 
The small, twiggy lateral shoots should be cut back 
to one or two eyes, but retain the hard, ripened 
growths almost to full length. Ards Rover is less 
rampant, but should be treated on the same lines, 
removing soft, pithy wood, and retaining that- which 
is hard. NVni. Allen Richardson and Grass an Tep- 
litz must be sparsely pruned. Leave some of their 
growths at least a yard long, if possible, and either 
tie up to a stake or bend them over half-moon 
shape. All small laterals are best cut back to one 
or two eyes close to the main stein. You can aid all 
to bloom freely by opening out the growths as much 
as practicable. 

East Lothian Stocks (Gleniffan House ).-As 
your East Lothian Stocks have been raised in 
warmth, it will be wisest to allow the plants to be¬ 
come a little hardened whilst still in the seed-pans. 
Were you, seeing that you are so far north, to trans¬ 
fer them from warmth suddenly by pricking out into 
a cold-frame the result might be disastrous. Even 
here, in the south, we should not do so until the 
weather became much warmer. If you have patience, 
and when the plants are harder, will prick them out 
into a cold-frame then, you should have strong 
plants to put outdoors at the end of May, nnd they 
should bloom finely in the autumn. Properly, seed 
should have been sown at. the end of July, and the 
j plants by the winter got singly into small pots, then 
1 iieing hardened in a cold-frame or greenhouse be fine 


to plant out in the spring, then flowering much 
earlier. As to sowing Sunflower-seeds in your colder 
locality, we advise sowing one seed each in quite 
small pots, standing them in a cold-frame, thus rais¬ 
ing strong plants to put out in May. 

TREES AND SHRUBS. 

Pruning Laurels (Laurel ).—It is always advis¬ 
able to cut down Laurels, say, in March or April, hs 
then the shoots made following the cutting down 
get hard before the winter. A spell of sharp frost 
is apt to nip them in a cold, dump autumn following 
gross summer growth 

Shrubs under trees <(A Faithful Reader).— In 
making a selection of shrubs for such a purpose, it 
would have lielped us considerably had you told us 
what the trees were—whether of dense growth, like 
the Evergreen Oak or Beech, under which very few 
plants will thrive; or thin-headed trees, like the 
False Acacia or Ash, under which many plants will 
grow. Most shining-leaved shrubs will thrive under 
trees, but the soil must be well prepared for them. 
Among suitable things are the Common Holly, 
MahoniR, llox, Portugal Laurel, Rhododendrons (if 
no lime in the soil), Berheris DarWini, and the Com¬ 
mon Yew. The above are all evergreen, and can be 
bought very cheaply. For very dense shade the 
Butcher's Broom (Ruseus aculcatus), with an under¬ 
growth or the St. John’s Wort (Hypericum calyci- 
nurn), Periwinkle, and Ivy is very suitable. A good 
carpet-like growth may be formed with Euonymus 
radicans and its variegated form. The sooner you 
plant the better, otherwise it will be advisable to 
leave the work until next October. 

VEGETABLES. 

Vegetables under trees (.4 Faithful Reader).— 
You cannot hope to get good crops of vegetables 
from under trees. It is not the shade caused by the 
trees in the summer which makes vegetable growing 
under them difficult, but it is the roots which rob 
the soil. Then the more you dig and manure, the 
more greedy do the roots become. You may in the 
summer try Dwarf Kidney Beans, and also Spinach, 
and in the autumn plant Savoys, Kales, and Broc¬ 
coli. We have seen Kales and purple Sprouting 
Broccoli doing well under such conditions. 

Fowls' manure (K. M. I. and Amateur).— Yes, the 
manure from a fowls’ run is very useful in the garden. That 
which you sav is a year old will answer very well. Mix 
the leaf-mould with it, turning it frequently so os to amal¬ 
gamate the two, and at the same time, if you can procure 
it, add some 800 t to it. Spread it thinly over the ground, 
and dig it in. Another wav in which feuds’ manure can be 
used is to plane some in a hag and hang it in a tank or tub 
of water, afterwards diluting the liquid and applying it to 
any crops that may be in want of it. You may also use it 
for top-dressing any vegetable crops at the rate of a peck 
per square yard, sprinkling it on the surface and hoeing 
it in. 


SHORT REPLIES. 


E.S. D. C.— You had better send the seed to Kew. 
They will tell you what it is. The Custard Apple cannot 

be grown in England.- Wales.— If the bark of the stems 

is very badly gnawed, we fear that the trees will fail to 
recover. We know of no preparation that will cause the 
bark to heal over. To prevent further trouble you should 

have the orchard protected by wire.-C. ft.—See reply 

to “ Rock ” in our issue of February 10, p. 697.- Mrs. 

E. D. Daniel.— We have never seen nor heard of the book 
you inquire about. — Archd. Lawson. —The best way 
will l»e to get a situation in a good fruit-tree nureery or 
large market garden where fruit-growing is carried on. 
Failing this, a gentleman’s garden is the most suitable. 
What is wanted is the practical side of the question. See 
nlso reply to “ Fruit Farm ” in our issue of Feb. 23,p. 720. 

- Rabbit, Re.rhill. —1, Any very sandy soil will answer. 

Old potting soil is very suitable, sprinkling this into the 
drills before you sow the seeds. 2, You will find it better 
to purchase the Tufted Pansies, which should be done at 
once, planting them out os soon as they come to hand. 
The Asters can be purchased very cheaply and planted 

out in May.- C. R. —You can apply the nitrate of soda 

pure at the rate of 3 lb. per square rod.— A. Smith. — 
You will find wood-ashes valuable for all kitchen garden 
crops. —U. J. Uockrell .—You will find the pergolas 
figured in the following issues : I., Dec. 8,1P01 (p. 563); 

II., 29, 1906 (p. 605); III., January 12, 1907 (p. 685).- 

O. —No, you cannot paint or colour the tar iu any way. 
You can get over the difficulty by erecting a trellis and 
then training whatever climbing plants you may choose 
over it. No self-clinging plant will take hold of the tarred 

wall.-— IF. K. IF.—We do notknow whatdyc is used.- 

II. R. Smith,—We do not quite understand your query. 
All herbaceous plants die down during the winter, and 
there are thousands of these. If you want only Lychnises, 
this, too, is a large family, and all are worth growing. 


NAMES OF PLANTS AND FRUITS. 


Names of plants. E. W. C.—We suppose the plant 
t.o which you refer is the Missouri Currant (Kibes aureum), 
in which both the flowers and fruit are yellow. This can 
be had of any tree and shrub nurseryman. 

Names of fruits.— Bristol .—Apples : 1, Crimson 
Queening ; 2, Small specimens-of Tower of Glamis. 


Catalogue received.— Alexander Dickson and 

Sons, Ltd., Newtownards, Belfast .—Rose Catalogue for 
1D0C‘7. _ 


Packing Violets.— Kindly inform me of the best 
way for packing Violets? I send them constantly to 
London, and though they always arrive in perfeot condi¬ 
tion, they are quite limp in 24 hours' time. Should they 
be put into cold or warm water on arrival, and are they 
best sent in a tin box or a cardboard box ?—R. A. C. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


No. 1,461.—' Vol. XXIX. 


Founded by W. Jiobinson, Author qf “The English Flower Garden.' 


MARCH 9, 1907. 


Adiantutns failing .. 19 
Adonis (Adonis pyrena- 
»ca), the Pyrenean 18 

Apple, tree in had condi¬ 
tion .. j. 16 

Apple-lrec unhealthy .. 14 
Artichokes. .Jerusalem .. 24 
Asparagus failing .. 24 
Begonia me tallica .. 20 
Begonia tubers, grubs in¬ 
juring .16 

Brussels Sprouts, early.. 24 
Bud-dropping 13 

Camellia outdoors, plant¬ 
ing .. . . .. .. 26 

Carnations, border .. 17 
Chicory as salading .. 24 
Chrysanthemum Mme. 

Felix Perrin (ayn. 

Fratnfleld Pink) .. 16 


ChryM*nlhomiimn.. 16 

Chrysanthemums, new 

Jap&neKu.16 

Chrysanthemums — sea¬ 
sonable hints .. ..16 

Chrysanthemums — stop¬ 
ping and timing .. 16 
Climbers, pruning green¬ 
house .20 

Clivia in bad health .. 26 
C<elogyue cristata, grow¬ 
ing .10 

Conservatory .. .. 25 

Coronilla glauca .. .. 21 

Cucumbers, early.. 25 

Cut-tlowers and their 
preservation - 10 

Cyclamens, improvement 

in.21 

Dendrobium nobilo .. 22 


INDEX. 


Ferns.22 

Ferns, pot ting and water¬ 
ing . •- •- 22 

Flame-tiowor (Trop;eo- 
lurn speciosum) in Ire¬ 


land, the.17 

Moral decorations .. 19 
Flower names, country 18 
Flowers in the honso .. 10 
Forcing-house, the .. 25 

Fruit.13 

Fruit-buds of Pear and 
Apple - trees, destruc¬ 
tion of, by birds .. 14 
Fruit garden .. .. 25 

Carden diary, extracts 

from a .25 

Garden on chalk, plant¬ 
ing a .17 

Garden pests and friends 16 


Garden work 25 

Glass-houses, unheated.. 21 
Grasses, Ornamental, for 
decoration — how to 
grow, gather, and dry 18 
Greenhouse and veran¬ 
dahs, tilling boskets for 25 
India-rubber plant, re¬ 
letting . 26 

Indoor plants .. 21) 

La w and custom .. . 20 

Magnolia, priming .. 23 
Mushrooms outdoors, 

growing.24 

Onions, ground for .. 21 

Orchids .22 

Outdoor garden .. .. 25 

Outdoor plants 17 

Parsley, planting out 
versus sowing .. 24 


Peach-house, early .. 25 
Peaches and Almonds, 
forcing flowering 20 

Pears, Great, for Eng¬ 
land -- VII. — Beurn's 

Hardy.13 

Pears, some late .. 14 

Pelargoniums and Fuch¬ 
sias, treatmont of 21 

Pelargoniums, Zonal .. 20 
Perennials from seed .. 26 
Pergola, building a .. 18 , 

Pergolas. — V.17 

Plants for rockery 26 1 

Poisons Bill 26 

Primrose (Primula farin- 
osa), the Bird's-eye .. 19 
Red Currant - bushes, 

scale on.26 

Rhododendrons,alpine.. 23 


Rose Mme. Melanie 

Soupert.15 

Rose name wanted .. 16 

Roses.. 15 

Roses, climbing, for han¬ 
dles of baskets .. 26 

Roses, Hybrid Perpetual 15 
Roses, perpetual flower¬ 
ing, for trailing.. 26 

Seeds from New Zealand 20 
Tomato culture in pits 23 
Trees and shrubs. . .. 23 

United Horticultural 
Benefit and Provident 

Society.26 

| Vegetable garden .. 25 
Vinory, late .. 25 

• Walnut-trees, tho prun¬ 
ing .23 

Week's work, tho coming 


FRUIT. 


BUD-DROPPING. 

At this season of the year many amateurs 
and others will be starting their only Peach- 
house into gentle growth, and it is not at 
all an uncommon occurrence for the owners 
to be much disappointed, after the lapse of a 
few days, to find that tho fruit-buds, to a 
greater or less extent, instead of swelling 
and developing, drop off when the trees are 
svringed, or if the trellis is shaken. Some 
are quite at a loss to account for this; others 
know from past experience, and realise what 
is the matter; but in the majority of cases it 
is seldom that a true solution of tho problem 
is arrived at, and the complaint assigned to 
the rightful cause. I make use of the word 
complaint in contradistinction to that of 
disease—for many consider the bud-casting 
of Peach-trees under glass to be so—as I 
think it is, and, according to my experience, 
have proved it to be, a matter largely under 
the control of the cultivator. The com¬ 
plaint is generally brought about by neglect¬ 
ing to supply the roots with a sufficient 
amount of water from the time the crops are 
cleared till the trees are restarted into 
growth in the spring. I have before now 
witnessed cases in which the borders were in 
an excessively dry state during the autumn 
and winter months, and it is small wonder 
that bud-casting follows on the heels of such 
a course of treatment. Many have the idea 
that a rather dry border is conducive to the 
thorough ripening of the wood, and that it is 
also necessary to ensure the trees having a 
long season of rest. The trees may expe¬ 
rience the needed period of rest, but it is 
generally accompanied by the loss of fruit- 
buds. If the roots are only afforded water 
whenever tho condition of the border de¬ 
mands it. during the autumn and winter 
months, it does not prevent the trees from 
gaining the needful season of rest, but it does 
avert bud-casting, because the trees, as a 
result of their roots being able to obtain an 
ample supply of moisture, are in a position 
to nurture the buds. This has been my 
practice with regard to the treatment of 
Peach-borders for many years past, and I 
have never known it to fail. r lhcre is not 
the slightest doubt that a too dry condition 
of the border during the dormant season is 
mainly responsible for much of the bud-cast¬ 
ing that one so frequently hears of. Another 
cause of bud-dropping is from the trees being 
kept in a condition of excitement more or 
less in winter, as a result of the house having 
to be used for housing various plants, where 
glass structures are too limited in number 
or extent to allow of its being thrown open 
to the elements. It is not so much the fact 
of the plants being accommodated in Peach- 
Hnncpo as in excluding frost from them dur¬ 
ing a spell of severe weather. When this 

occurs, fire-heat^ on. anjljhen, if 
necessary 
several ni 


nre-neat ib ucu dm. auu nr 
V to employ artificial, yirmt: 
aights and^gpVinF. 


h for 
to ex¬ 


clude frost, the trees naturally become ex¬ 
cited, the sap begins to flow, and the buds, 
as a result, soon commence to swell. Then 
milder weather, perhaps, sets in, the heat is 
dispensed with, and the house thrown open. 
The inevitable result is that the trees sustain 
a check, and bud-dropping follows. When 
a Peach-house has to be made use of for 
storing plants in during the winter, they 
should be such as only require protection 
from frost, or so that the temperature never 
need exceed 40 degs., and then no harm will 
ensue. A. W. 


GREAT-PEARS FOR ENGLAND. 

VII. Beurre Hardy. 

This is an excellent October Pear, ranking 
as one of the best at that season, fruit large, 
and of very rich flavour. I have it growing 
on the Quince; and trained goblet shape, 
where it fruits remarkably well. This Pear 
is largely imported from France during its 
season, and is much sought after in the. Lon¬ 
don markets. Long before gathering-time I 
find the tits, and eventually the wasps, work¬ 
ing havoc with the fruit, which suggests that 
there must be a deal of juice palatable to 
these marauders. I have also seen it doing 
well in Herefordshire, trained as a cordon, 
very fine fruits being obtainable from these 
trees, which occupied a west wall.— East 
Devon. 

- Although there has been a consider¬ 
able accession to the list of Pears which 
mature in October and November since 
Beurre Hardy was first introduced, this still 
occupies a foremost position among the 
autumnal ripening varieties. No other Pear 
can surpass it for vigour and hardiness of 
constitution ; and though I do not class it as 
being a heavy cropper, it is, nevertheless, a 
very consistent bearer, as it is seldom that 
the trees fail to fruit. It may be cultivated 
with success either on the Quiuce or Pear- 
stock, the Quince being the best for cordons 
and pyramids, and the Pear for larger-sizecl 
pyramids for fruit plantations and for 
orchard standards. In the recognised Pear- 
growing districts Beurre Hardy hardly re¬ 
quires the protection of a wall, as it succeeds 
admirably as a pyramid in the open garden 
and as a standard in the orchard, yet if a 
few cordons are grown against a wall having 
a south or south-western aspect, fruit of very 
superior quality can be obtained. In less 
favoured localities it should be accorded wall 
culture, and may theu be trained diagonally 
or fan-shape, just as may appear desirable, 
while no further recommendation is required 
with regard to its being a suitable variety for 
cordon culture beyond that stated above. 
Young trees on the Pear-stock are best lifted 
to induce early fertility, and once they com 
mence to bear I have seldom had further 
trouble in this direction. It is an excellent 
variety for producing fruit-buds on the young 
wood, and a standard growing not many yards 
distant from where this note is being penned 


lias the two-year-old wood wreathed with 
them. When grown in the last-named form 
of tree, its habit of growth is more upright 
than spreading, and the tree will reach to a 
considerable height if allowed to grow away 
unchecked, rivalling, in this respect, many of 
the fine old Pear-trees which are to be seen 
in the Hereford orchards. Tho fruits, which 
are handsomely shaped and large in size, 
have yellowish-green skins, covered more or 
less with a thin coat of rich brown-russet, 
and when fully exposed to the sun there is the 
addition of a tinge of red also, and on the 
shaded side of some fruits the skin is freely 
marked with brown dots. The flesh is best, 
described as white, tinged with green, melt¬ 
ing, juicy, rich, with a perfumed flavour. 
There is an entire absence of grittiness, and 
it is altogether a very desirable Pear either 
for the market or private grower.—A. W. 

-“A dessert Pear of the greatest ex¬ 
cellence,” according to the late Dr. Hogg, 
and his opinion has been verified by many 
hundreds of growers since the above was 
written. This Pear has not only a high re¬ 
putation in the British Isles, but the Colonics 
uow send each year to this country heavy 
consignments in the pink of condition. If we 
except that prince of Pears, Doyenne du 
Cornice, I do not think there is another 
superior to Beurre Hardy, both as regards 
texture and flavour. There certainly are 
Pears with more attractive colour than is 
found in average samples of Beurre Hardy, 
though on some soils and on some stocks this 
Pear has taken on a crimson flush on the sun- 
exposed side. Usually the skin is entirely 
coated with russet more or less dense. The 
fruit has a handsome pyramidal outline, very 
even, and large in size, and, unlike many 
good Pears, the tree does well as an open 
bush or pyramid. I find that birds- black¬ 
birds in particular—are very partial to this 
kind, and last season, when the weather was 
so dry, they made vigorous onslaughts on 
some kinds, this one being particularly 
attractive to them. Only by enclosing tho 
fruits separately in muslin bags was I able 
to preserve any of this fine variety. It is 
strange how strongly marked is the instinct 
of birds in locating the better varieties of 
Pears in the garden. It does not seem to bo 
necessary for them to make actual trials in 
testing; they can pitch upon the best quite 
casually, and, once they make raids on good 
Pears, there is soon a clearance of the crop. 

Beurre Hardy belongs to the early main 
crop section, ripening in October and early 
November. Only by leaving the fruits late 
on the trees can they be retained till mid- 
November. The flesh has a salmon tint 
similar to that other good winter Pear, 
Josephine de Malines. I have added Beurre 
Hardy to my stock of wall-trees with a view 
to retarding the crop the more easily for 
November use. A north-west aspect has been 
chosen as the site. There would appear to be 
no date given when this Pear was first intro- 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 







14 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


March 9. 1907 


duced, but it must have been many years ago, 
judging from the size of many of the trees. 

I find it very regular in its cropping, moder¬ 
ately vigorous, and very healthy. It is also 
shapely in its style of growth, lending itself | 
readily to bush and pyramidal growth. With 
all these good points enumerated one might 
well ask what more can anyone need in the 
choice of trees? No garden furnished with 
even a small collection is complete without 
Beurre Hardy, despite the fact that so many 
Pears ripen about the same time. Much may 
be done to extend its season, as I have al¬ 
ready said, by enclosing fruits in muslin or 
some similar wasp and bird-proof materials. 
Wasps last year became so desperate that 
they ate holes in the bags in order to satisfy 
their greedy appetites. There were other 
Pears close by which they purposely ignored, 
and which were left unprotected. Duchess 
d’Angouleme, for instance, attracted neither 
bird nor wasp—a rather striking instance of 
the lack of quality. Birds and wasps, how¬ 
ever. are attracted, I find, to Pears that have 
marked skin colours while growing on the 


grower. M. Jean Laurent Jamin, fruit¬ 
grower of Bourg-la-Reine, who introduced it 
to commerce, named it after M. Hardy, 
director of the Luxembourg Gardens.—T. 


DESTRUCTION OF FRUIT-BUDS OF 
PEAR AND APPLE-TREES BY BIRDS. 
To the Editor of Gardening Illustrated. 

Sir,—F ruit growers in this neighbourhood 
are much incensed by the depredations by 
small birds that are becoming increasingly 
plentiful in consequence of the close time 
under a recent Act of Parliament. Now that 
boys arc not allowed by the police to take 
nests, the wealthy are compelled to erect 
large galvanised netting structures around 
their fruit-trees in order to obtain any fruit 
for their tables, whilst those who are not 
wealthy cannot grow choice Pears and Apples 
for the market. Hence, we hear continually | 
people condemning “another idiotic law 
framed by our legislators.” 

I could show you each spring the ground in 
j my garden beneath certain Pear-trees 


ally in the next garden. These were planted at the same 
date, only they have not developed the lumpy growths on 
them. They were planted four years ago next month, 
and are in a good layer of top spit on strong yellow clay. 
—B. M. W. 

[Your Apple-trees have been attacked by 
American blight, a good cure for which is a 
dressing of neat’s-foot-oil. This oil, being 
thick, should be slightly warmed, when it 
can be easily worked into all the crevices with 
an ordinary paint-brush. Apply it “neat,” 
and it will smother up all the insects, and 
do no harm to the trees. The specimen is 
also what is known as “cankered,” caused by 
the roots getting into what you describe as 
“strong yellow clay.” The best, and only, 
cure for this is to lift and replant the trees 
early next autumn, adding to the soil some 
wood-ashes and bone-meal, and planting on 
mounds, then well mulching each one with 
some decayed stable-manure.] 

Some late Pears.— Other than stewing 
Pears, such as Catillae, Uvedale’s St. Ger¬ 
main, or others of a hard nature, the Pears 
that are useful for the dessert after the new 
year is in are few, and of these very few are 



Pear Beurr£ Hardy, grown in a Sussex garden. 


trees, and it does not matter so much, ap- j 
parentlv, what the flavour is. Beurre Sterck- 
inanns I jaave had to regraft simply because of | 
the birds and insects.—W ilts. 

— Birds—particularly tomtits—are very 
fond of this Pear, and unless the trees are 
carefully netted they soon make holes in the 
fruit and completely spoil a great number of 
fruits in a few days. This is, no doubt, due 
to the flesh being very sweet, even when quite 
hard, and so sure as the birds make a begin¬ 
ning, wasps and flies quickly follow, and soon 
demolish the fruits so attacked. As a hardy 
free-bearing sort. B. Hardy can hardly be 
surpassed, while its large size and handsome 
appearance at once arrest attention. The 
tree grows very quickly, and on the Pear, 
either bush or pyramidal-formed trees quickly 
attain to a large size. Worked on the Quince 
and grown as a cordon on the wall it also 
bears freely, the fruits in this case taking on, 
as a rule, a very high colour. According to 
Leroy, this variety, of French origin, first 
came under notice in 1830. It, was raised 
from seed by M. _of Bouloln^sur- 

Mer, arid who at tliatLintf{j\j! a ^dt<|^ruit- 


strewed with the remains of the fruit-buds 
which the finches have destroyed, although 
gins, scarlet cloth, whitewash, paraffin and 
water (very weak) have been severally em¬ 
ployed. Are the birds in these depredations 
in pursuit of a minute caterpillar in the bud? 

I have never been able to discover one. 
Moreover, I find that the birds select in my I 
garden certain Pear-trees, such as Louise 
Bonne, Duchess d’Angouleme, Souvenir du 
i Congres, and Marie Benoist, and never touch 
| other Pear-trees. Likewise, among Apple- 
trees, the Ecklinville and the Kentish Codlin 
arc the only ones attacked, as if one fruit-bud 
was more delicious to their sense of taste 
than another. Or, supposing that a cater¬ 
pillar is at the bottom of all this mischief, it 
may be that the moth shows in the distribu 
tion of its eggs a preference for one variety j 
of Pear or Apple-tree over another. 

North Devon. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Apple-tree unhealthy.— Please tell me the cause 
of this growth on the enclosed piece of wood V The trees 
make plenty of wood, and some have fruited well, especi- 


worth keeping, or make good dessert fruit, 
unless grown on a wall or on dwarf tree© on 
the Quince-stock, by which agency fruits of 
the best quality are obtained. Recently Mr. 
J. Crooke, of Forde Abbey, Chard, sent to 
the Royal Horticultural Society a fine sample 
of Glou Morceau grown on a west, 
wall, but at that date (January 8th) 
they were getting over, though still of 
delicious flavour. At tho same time, 
Mr. W. Allan, of Guiitoii Park. Norwich, sent 
a dish of a Pear named “The Blickling,” 
fruits not unlike those of Doyenne du Cornice, 
and with flesh of delicious quality. Both 
these are high-class January Pears, grown on 
walls. Passe Crassane, Josephine des Ma- 
lines, Easter Beurre, and Glivier des Serres, 
amongst others, when grown on walls where 
the fruits are fully matured, help to make up 
a list of really late Pears of excellent quality. 
—A. D. 


Index to Volume XXVII.— The binding covers 
(price Is. Gd. each, powfl free,' Is. Od.) and Index (8d., 
post free, 8.UI.) for Volume XXVII. arc now ready, 
and may pfliad of all newsagents, or of the Pub- 

Usher, post free, *s. ,foi Jhe two, 

URdAnA-CHAMPAIGN 






March 9, 1907 


GARDENING ILL UNIRATED. 


15 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

ROSES. 

MADAME MELANIE SOUPERT. 

A flower of the Mildred Grant style, this 
beautiful novelty promises to be an acquisi¬ 
tion. I had some wonderful blooms last sea¬ 
son on some pot plants, and they reminded 
me of a White Lady suffused with apricot 
and carmine. If the variety proves as good 
outdoors as it did under glass, there is a 
great future for it. It may be rather wanting 
m fulness to become a reliable exhibition 
Rose, but as a garden Rose this variety must 
certainly take a high place. It is another of 
those Roses with the exquisite blendings of 
colour which we owe to M. Pernet Ducher. 
and possesses a fine, erect habit of growth. I 
think raisers are giving us quite enough of 
these half-full Roses. 

It would he a change if we were to re¬ 
ceive some fine quality exhibition flowers of 
the type of Mainau Cochet, Madame Cusin, 
Medea. Souvenir d’Elise Vardon, Catherine 
Mermet, etc. I have no desire to decry 
varieties of the typo of Madame Melanie 
Soupert, for in a cool season, or grown 
steadily under glass, they are superb, and 
they have a grand, erect habit of growth, 
which makes them doubly valuable to those 
who grow for cutting. Rosa. 


HYBRID PERPETUAL ROSES. 

We hear so much at the present day of the 
Hybrid Tea Rose that there is a danger of 
the above useful group becoming neglected. 
If this happens, it will be a great mistake, for 
among them not only have we very hardy 
and vigorous plants, but, in the majority of 
instances, their colours are. rich and bril¬ 
liant, and they possess the most delightful per¬ 
fume. Now, how come we in possession of 
these Hybrid Perpetual Roses? Even experts 
would find this question difficult to answer. 
Mr. \Ym. Paul says, in “The Rose Garden,” 
that the Hybrid Perpetual was derived by 
crossing the Hybrid Bourbon and Hybrid 
Chinese with the Damask Perpetual. To 
many present-day Rose growers this may con¬ 
vey uo meaning, for what are Hybrid Bour¬ 
bon, Hybrid Chinese, and Damask Per¬ 
petual? It is very strange that the two 

f roups that claim to be hybrids of Bourbon 
loses and hybrids of Chinese Roses are not 
perpetual flowering in the least, as some 
might suppose them to be, having descended 
by crossing from those grand autumnal 
groups, the Bourbons and Chinese. As to 
Damask Perpetual, this, too, conveys little 
meaning to us at the present day, because the 
true Damask Roses are not perpetual, and 
there is only one variety cultivated now that 
can claim to be a Damask Perpetual, and 
that one is the very fragrant Rose du Roi. 
This was raised in the gardens of St. Cloud, 
near Paris, and was sent out in England by 
Lee, of Hammersmith. There is a report 
that this Rose nearly cost its raiser his life, 
he desiring to name it after himself, but the 
French King desired the Rose to be named 
Du Roi. I think it may safely be concluded 
that the Hybrid Perpetuals of the present 
day have sprang from a number of crosses, 
mainly with R. Gallica, Chinese, and Bour¬ 
bon. A large number of sorts prove this by 
their resemblance to one type or another. 
Although called Perpetual, they come far 
short of this, an exceedingly small number 
of the varieties yielding anything like a con¬ 
tinuous supply of blossom such as the Teas 
and Hybrid Teas will produce. 

It seems that M. Laffav was one of the 
earliest raisers of Hybrid Perpetual Roses, a 
variety named Princess Helene appearing in 
1837. From that date until 1860 varieties 
were very slowly introduced. Looking over 
recently a list of varieties mostly exhibited in 
1859-60, I came across the following names 
among the Hybrid Perpetuals:—Auguste 
Mie, Baronne Prevost, Caroline de Sansal, 
Colonel de Rougemont, Comtesse de Chabril- 
lant, Duchess of Sutherland, Geant des 
Batailles, General Jacqueminot, Jules Mar- 
gottin, La Reine. Lord Raglan, Louis Chaix, 

Louise Peyronny, H26°i c gl 


ac^res, 


Mme. Dourage, Mme. Knorr, Mmc. Masson, 
Mme. Vidot, Mrs. Rivers, Pauline Lause- 
zeur, Prince Leon, Triomphe de Paris, and 
Win. Griffiths. 

How few of these could be procured to¬ 
day ! It is true we have General Jacque¬ 
minot unbeaten where it will grow well (and 
the failure can usually be traced to the bud¬ 
ding on to Manctti-stocks instead of striking 
from cuttings), Jules Margottin, Geant des 
Batailles, and a few others, but the majority 
have gone, and I do not know that we want 
them back, although I have a distinct re¬ 
membrance of the exquisite form of some, 
such as Comtesse de Chabrillant. The de¬ 
cade from 1860 to 1870 witnessed a grand ad¬ 
dition to this group of Hybrid Perpetuals, 
and such a batch has not been seen since in 
the same period of time. To name only a 
few, there were Alfred Coloinb, Baroness 
Rothschild, Beauty of Waltham, Black 
Prince, Camille Bernardin, Charles Lefe- 
bvre, Comte Raimbaud, Dr. Aiidry, Duchesse 
de Morny, Duke of Edinburgh, Duke of Wel¬ 
lington, Dupuy Jamain, Exposition de Brie, 
Fisher Holmes, Horace Vernet, Louis Van 
Houtte, Mme. Victor Verdier, Marie Bau¬ 
mann, Xavier Olibo, etc. If an inspection 


Wood ; and from 1900 to 1906 there has been 
a great falling off of novelties, the best being 
Ben Cant, Commandant Felix Faure, Dr. 
Win. Gordon, David R. Williamson, Hugh 
Dickson, and Oberhofgartner A. Singer. It 
is a question whether several Roses grouped 
as Hybrid Teas should not be found in the 
Hybrid Perpetuals, but so long as fashion 
rules raisers will continue to call their novel¬ 
ties Hybrid Teas. I am not sure that we 
want more variety than we have in this 
beautiful class. There are some sorts that 
would be all the better if improved. For in¬ 
stance, we want a Victor Hugo with a 
stronger growth, and the same may bo said 
of Xavier Olibo ; but who can improve upon 
Mrs. Laiug or Marie Baumann? 

To dwellers near large towns I would com¬ 
mend these Hybrid Perpetuals, for they have 
a vigour and hardiness often lacking in the 
Hybrid Teas. What splendid short pillars 
some of them will make ! I have had Duke 
of Edinburgh grown in this way a mass of 
scarlet blossom, whereas if mutilated by prun¬ 
ing it often refuses to bloom at all. Then, 
as hedges, some of the sorts are a great suc¬ 
cess, if grown oil the long pruning system, 
and upon walls of 6 feet to 7 feet in height 



It 080 Muie. Melanie Soupert. From a photograph in Messrs. 6. R. Cant and Son’s nurseries at Colchester. 


bo made at any large Rose show, these 
varieties will be found well represented at 
the present day. Then, the next decade, 1870- 
80, witnessed the arrival of A. K. Williams, 
Duchess of Bedford, Duke of Connaught, 
Etienne Levet, E. Y. Teas, Fran£ois Miche- 
lon, Le Havre, Mme. Eugene Verdier, Mme. 
G. Luizet, Marie Finger, and Marie Verdier. 
During the early part of the next ten years 
Rose growers were much excited over the ad¬ 
vent of the Hybrid Teas, one of the first of 
any merit being Lady Mary Fitzwilliam, in¬ 
troduced by Mr. Henry Bennett, in 1882. In 
this decade we were gradually having our 
affections alienated from the Hybrid Per¬ 
petuals by the new comers, and this has gone 
on ever since. I do not wish to disparage the 
Hybrid Teas, because I know too well their 
value, but we shall make a great mistake if 
we drop the Hybrid Perpetuals. From 1880 
to 1890 there appeared of this latter group 
Duke of Teck, Earl of Dufferin, II. 
Schultheis, Her Majesty, Merveille de Lyon, 
Mrs. John Laing, Pride of Waltham, Suzanne 
M. Rodocanachi, Victor Hugo, Ulster, and 
Ulrich Brunner. Then, from 1890 to 1900, 
we had Captain Hayward, Clio, Helen Keller, 
Margaret Dickson, Mrs. Cocker, Mrs. Shar- 
man Crawford, Rev. Alan Cheats, Tom 


they present a noble appearance, although 
not very continuous like the Teas and Noi¬ 
settes. If anyone is desirous of growing 
these Roses to perfection, let him bud a 
quantity of dwarf standard Briers with them. 
They make splendid heads, and the quality of 
blossom is of a very high order. A s stan¬ 
dards, when well thinned out, there are no 
better Roses for such a purpose, and, being 
so hardy, they may be planted in exposed 
situations, where we should hesitate to place 
the Hybrid Teas and Teas. How grand are 
their richly-coloured blossoms in the forcing- 
house ; and as individual pot specimens they 
are unsurpassed. I would strongly recom¬ 
mend all who have large demands made upon 
them for cut flowers to plant a number of the 
Hybrid Perpetuals in quantities of a sort. 
Such varieties as Mrs. John Laing, Ulrich 
Brunner, General Jacqueminot, and Frau 
Karl Druschki would never fail to provide 
long-stemmed and stately blossoms. Then, 
too, they will put up with a very rough treat¬ 
ment that the Tea and many of the Hybrid 
Teas would resent. I allude to the practice 
of potting them into 48 pots in autumn and 
forcing them into bloom for the next spring. 
Thousands of plants so forced find their-way 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




16 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


March 9, 1907 


irilo the market, and are, apparently, appre¬ 
ciated. 

' Finally, I would say a word as to their 
fragrance. In this they stand unrivalled, 
and, save the smooth-wooded Victor Verdier 
race, I think the whole of the group yields a 
most' delightful perfume. Do these Roses 
deteriorate is a question sometimes put to 
me, and I must, confess to a belief that they 
do. I have never seen during recent years 
Kiioh splendid examples of Prince C. de Rohan 
and Earl of Dufferin ns we used to have. Or 
is it that the group is being neglected for the 
worship of the monstrous, impersonated by 
the Mildred Grants of the present da'’? 1 
trust the National Rose Society, with that 
broadness of view which they have always 
manifested, will endeavour to revive the for¬ 
mer affection for these Roses by offering 
prizes for dozens of a sort, as of yore ; and 
please do not encourage the displaying of 
such lovely Roses in the hideous Bamboo 
monstrosities seen at the last National Rose 
Show, but rather let us have them in vases, 
surrounded by their own foliage, and not de¬ 
prived of their buds. Rosa. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Rose name wanted.—I should he very glad if 
'uo could (five me the name of a very charming Rose I 
saw climbing on a pillar at. Cadenavvia, on Lake Como, 
list June? It was a good-sized Rose, the outer petals 
almost white, and the centre a deep carmine. I could 
not tret close enough to describe it more minutely, but 
'he colour contrast was most unusual, of the almost 
white petals and dark centre. I am afraid this 
description is too meagre to be of much use. hut I should 
be graieful if you would mention the name of any Rose 
.'•»i know that at all resembles it? The petals were not 
llimsy, but seemed of good substance.- 0. V. 

[As there are several thousand Hoses in 
i ultivation, it is quite impossible, with any 
•degree of certainty, to name a Rose from it 
written description.] 


CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

SEASONABLE HINTS. 

The colder weather of late winter militated 
against speedy rooting, and the earliest cut¬ 
tings were a long time in rooting in conse¬ 
quence. The weather of late has changed, 
however, and later batches, as well as those 
rooted earlier, demand attention. Plants 
that are now standing on shelves near to the 
glass in the cool greenhouse are making rapid 
progress—too rapid, as a matter of fact. It 
is of the utmost importance that the young 
plants be kept growing on. With the not in¬ 
frequent bursts of bright sunshine through¬ 
out the day, the temperature of ail glass 
structures rises very suddenly, and unless 
means be taken to ventilate them, in a little 
while the young plants may suffer very con¬ 
siderably. The warmth from the hot-water 
pipes, together with that derived from the 
Sim’s rays, quickly brings about a state of 
affairs that is most detrimental to most 
piant life, and to Chrysanthemums in parti¬ 
cular. Growers should, for this reason, ever 
be on the alert to give ventilation when it is 
needed, t hey must remember that the small 
quantity of soil in the “thumb.” or small 
"sixty” (3-inch) holds but little niois- 
turo, ami during hot spells the moisture is 
quickly absorbed, and the soil becomes quite 
drv. For this reason, when the watering is 
don'. 1 , see that the ball of soil is thoroughly 
moistened, watering two or three times in 
succession, if need be. Each succeeding day 
the sun continues to increase in power. For 
tliis reason it would he belter to find other 
quarters for the young plants. Provided 
adequate protection against frost can be en¬ 
sured. there is no better position for recently- 
HM.l.'d Chrysanthemums than the cold-frame. 
U i> not a very difficult matter to exclude 
lroiit if a little trouble be taken. Straw, 
leaves, and litter of all sorts may be placed 
around the outside of the frame, or frames, 
and this in sufficient quantity to ward off all 
inMs that we are now likely to experience. 
Ki'A from the same source may further be 
reduced by tilling in the frame with ashes, 
spent Hops, or Cocoa-nut-fihre refuse, and 
plunging the pots. By carefully covering 
the lights in the lattyufiernoon andlleaving 


them thus until the morning, removing the 
mats only when the weather justifies one in 
doing so, the plants may be kept steadily 
growing. 

Some of the readers of Gardening 
Illustrated may have a very forward lot of 
plants, and are now’ in doubt how to pro¬ 
ceed. It may be possible to give such a batch 
of young plants their first shift, but very 
often young plants are potted on into larger 
pots before they are ready for the shift, and 
when this is so a great mistake is un¬ 
doubtedly made. To take a batch of plants 
as a whole and pot them up at one and the 
same time is a mistake. The chances are 
that only a small proportion of the plants is 
ready for repotting into pots of a larger size. 
It is better, therefore, to deal with each plant 
individually. Shake out each plant in turn, 
and, if ready, put it aside with others that 
are ready to be potted up. Better wait a few 
days longer in the case of those that are not 
sufficiently rooted. Chrysanthemums are 
ready for potting on when the roots have 
well worked through the ball of soil in which 
they are growing. Eo not wait until the 
plants get pot-bound. 

Compost for this first shift or repotting 
may be made up of the following ingredi¬ 
ents:—One bushel of good fibrous loam, one 
quarter-bushel of well-decomposed leaf- 
mould, one quarter-bushel old mortar rub¬ 
bish broken up and passed through a sieve 
with a $-ineh mesh, one quarter-bushel of 
well-rotted manure, and half a gullon of 
coarse silver-sand or clean road-grit. Give 
this compost a thorough mixing, and pass 
the whole of it through a sieve with a $ inch 
mesh. The rougher siftings will do to place 
over the crocks, providing excellent drainage 
material. Pots 3 inches or 3.1 inches in 
diameter should be used for this shift, placing 
the stronger growing plants in the larger 
pots. The pots should be clean and left to 
drain dry. Pot rather firmly. It may be 
neees-ary in some eases to work the compost 
down between the ball of soil and the pot by 
the aid of a label. Never deal with more 
than one plant at a time, otherwise confusion 
of names may take place, and one’s calcula¬ 
tions be upset when pinching out the growths 
has to be done. After repotting, water in the 
plants, using a fine-rosed can, and place 
them where they may be kept fairly close 
for a few days. Continue to insert cuttings 
of all types as stock is available. 

C. A. H. 


Digit iz 


te/uHernoon andlleavi 

Google 


NEW JAPANESE CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 
The following novelties are but little known 
to the bulk of Chrysanthemum growers, yet 
as the flowers are of the highest quality, and 
almost indispensable for exhibition, ” brief 
descriptions may be helpful: — 

Mrs. Henry Perkins.— This English- 
raised seedling, of large and handsome form, 
has broad, reflexing petals, building up a 
flower of good form ; colour, bright chestnut, 
with golden base and buff reverse. F.C.C. bv 
the N.C.S. 

Mrs. R. D. Eves. —Another English- 
raised seedling of fine quality, has broad, 
curling, and incurving petals ; ‘colour, ivory- 
white, with cream centre. Commended bv 
the N.C.S. J 

Mrs. A. G. Pirie.—T his is a deep butterv- 
yellow sport from the popular Mme. I{. Cad¬ 
bury. The parentage of this excellent novelty 
is a sufficient commendation. It is useful for 
late work. 

Harold Wells.— Another of the very large 
flowers. Late blooms, the result of a second 
crown-bud selection, are of reflexed form, 
very refined, and pure white. 

Mrs. Iom Fagg. —This is a promising 
flower, of the richest shade of yellow ; petals 
long, twisting and curling, and of medium 
width. 

h red Dirck.—T his is a seedling from 
Henry Perkins, a popular exhibition variety 
for several seasons past. It, has long, fairly 
broad petals, curling and incurving at the 
ends ; colour, crimson over yellow, with buff 
reverse. F.C.C., N.C.S. 

R. C. Pulling.—T hose who have seen this 
| promising novelty regard it as a beautiful and 


refined flower ; petals very loug and of good 
breadth, drooping and reflexing ; colour, rich 
shade of can ary-yellow. 

Dorothy Gouldsmith.— Another flower 
of refined character. The petals are very 
long, narrow to medium in width; colour, 
yellow, heavily shaded reddish-bronze. 

W. M. Moir.—T his is a fine type of 
Japanese incurved flower. The flowers are 
borne on stiff, erect stems, the petals long, 
broad, and incurving ; colour, pure white. 

Mrs. Norman Wriohtson.—T his, re¬ 
garded by those who have seen it as a rival 
to the beautiful Algernon Davis, is of largo 
size, splendid form, and of considerable 
promise ; colour, rich golden-yellow. 

Dennis Kirby. -Those who think well of 
the blooms of Lady Mary Conyers will appre¬ 
ciate this new sort when it is said to be a 
sport from that variety. The colour may bo 
described as carmine red on a yellow ground. 

Mrs. H. R. Haggard. —This has broad, 
reflexed petals. The milk-white flowerB are 
borne on stiff, erect stems. 

J. J. Daniels.—A nother of the warmer- 
eoloured flowers ; rich chestnut, overlaid with 
glowing fiery crimson, aptly describing the 
colour; petals long and reflexing, slightly in¬ 
curving at the tips. 

Mary Mason.—A large, full flower of deep 
build and reflexing form, with petals of 
medium width, slightly twisting and curling ; 
colour, rosy-red. 

Evelyn Archer.—T his has long, twisting, 
and interlacing petals of good substance, 
building up a bloom of good form ; colour, a 
pleasing shade of pink. \V. v. q\ 


NOTES AND HE PLIES. 

Chrysanthemums-stopping and timing. 

—treat as follows :— 

Nanui When to pinch. W ’ A,C * bw ^ 

LaH 9 v S \: OP !h rd » *• Natural break .. ] 8^ crown 

Lad> Northeote Lnd March . 2nd crown 

■\t ,, . /Grow on finirle \ 

Marg. M. de Mong...- *tenis, two 2nd crown 
i u tt ii/. , v plantain one pot J 
Oonnie Jamieson “V •• l.l crown 

Embieme Foiled «r. t work March .. 2nd crown 
— fT !' ” " End March .. 2nd crown 

Chrysanthemum Mme. Felix Perrin (sv„. 
I' ramfield Pink).—tor an amateur, I have 
been a fairly successful grower of Chrvsan- 
themums for about fifteen years, but I 'hnve 
always failed with the above. I shall feel 
obliged if you will kindly tell me how in 
future I may grow good blooms? I reside 
about 170 miles north of London, and I am 
told by n. market grower that this Chrysan¬ 
themum is a failure so far north, which makes 
it annoying to hear of its profusion in flic 
London markets for the new vear.—B arton- 
upon-Humber. [We shall be'glad if growers 
null kindly give us their experience of the 
ahove well-known and useful late variety — 
Ed.] j 

GARDEN PESTS AND FRIENDS. 

NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Grubs Injuring Begonia tubers. I send a 
small box with grubs, which for two years have been doing 
sore damage to Begonia bulbs (in pots), some being 
burrowed to a complete shell. I find them verv trouble, 
some Also on Begonia Bemperilorens varieties,'and even 
(hr Rrx Begonias, and in the pot* of no other plants. 1 
only use fresh loam and leaf-mould for potting these 
Cqnkl any insecticide he need tor watering, nr any manure 
" lixpd W'th ' ■« potting soil to prevent the damage '™ 
hliluLIIILL, Ayr. - 

[The grubs, specimens or which you send, 
arc those of the Vine weevil (Otiorrhyiiclms 
sulcatus). See reply to “Vine Grower,” in 
our issue of March 2nd, page 8.J 

Apple-tree In bad condition.— Kindlv inform 

me what discaMf-a are present on the enclosed branch of 
Apple-tree, winch is an old standard. Please suL’^eBt a 
remedy.—h. Jkrvis-Smjtu. 

[On the piece of Apple-shoot you send there 
are traces of American-bligiit, while the 
whole branch is a mass of lichen. Next 
autumn, when the leaves have fallen, give 
the tree a good dressing of the caustic alkali 
solution, to the value of which we have so 
often called attention in these pages.] 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



March 9, 1907 


17 


GARDE A DYG ILL USER. LIED. 



E 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 

PERGOLAS.—V. 

Very often in a country place the walls of 
gardens, stables, and other buildings may 
end their aid to form a useful pergola. The 
^all takes half the work, and we have only 
to make a support for the other side. In the 
case we illustrate jt is made against a block | 
of buildings, and leads to some rooms behind. 
The materials are home-grown Larch, with 
14-inch pillars of stock bricks. The plants 
we Japanese and Chinese Wistaria, Ivies, j 
and Clematis. The effect on the building is | 
very good, and the pergola gives grateful 
shade in hot weather. 

While the essential thing in the formation 
of such things is that there should be the 
need for a covered walk, we have also to con- I 


a little well-decayed manure, some wood- 
ashes, bone-dust, and old mortar refuse 
added, well worked in also, the layers may 
be lifted and planted in blocks of three or 
five, as nice clumps are in bloom so much 
more effective than are single plants. Carna¬ 
tions from seed invariably give some having 
the straggling or tree-like habit. These it 
will be well to get into pots and grow them 
on, very firmly potted with good loam, and 
they will doubtless flower freely in a warm 
greenhouse all the winter. The most desir¬ 
able border varieties are those which produce 
nice clumps of short-jointed shoots, like a 
cluster close home, and have good double 
flowers.—A. D. 

PLANTING A CjARDEN ON CHALK. 

I have just gone to reside at Purley, Surrey, where the 
soil is chalk, covered with a thin coating of loam. The 


Pergola V.—One side supported on 14-inch pillars, other side by wall of building ; cross-beams of 
Climbers: Wistaria (Japanese ami Chinese), Vines, Clematis, and some of the finer Ivies. 


sider the help it gives us in other ways. In this 
case a great improvement ensued from 
placing it in the position named. The 
•Japanese Wistarias were very successful. 
They were planted on a border outside the 
pillars in a deep bed, and began to flower 
in a couple of years. Clematis niontnna was 
equally successful, as it usually is. 

Border Carnations. —The wide cultivation j 
of what are called winter-blooming Perpetual, 
or Tree-Carnations, has, to some extent, 
withdrawn attention from the ordinary sum¬ 
mer-blooming border varieties. Where these 
plants were duly layered last autumn, per¬ 
haps too late for lifting and transplanting 
the rooted layers in October, they should 
be ready for such replanting 90 soon as the 
cold weather is over.then, whe* the 
ground forj-their receptjbn befell [rt#V>Ib 


garden is on a considerable elope to the north. Will you 
kindly tell me what flower* ehould be planted to make an 
effective show this summer, and whether seeds or roots 
should l»e put in, and the month to put in the respective 
flowers ? I have planted a number of fruit and Rose-trees. 
—E. S. T. 

[Wc know the district you refer to well, 
and have seen numerous gardens on both 
sides of the Caterham Valley, where chalk is 
the base, and soil surface relatively thin. 
With the exception of Rhododendrons, 
Azaleas, Kalinias, and some similar shrubs, 
to suit which the chalk base has to be re¬ 
moved, the excavations being filled with loam 
and peat, there seems to be nothing generally 
that will not thrive in the district. On the 
north side of the valley, looking south, and 
on a steep slope, as your garden is. are some 
really remarkable gardens, one of which but 
recently secured a silver medal as the best 
cottage garden in the County of Surrey. 


There fruits of various kinds, aud all sorts of 
vegetables, do well; and flowers, such as 
room can be found for. It does not do to 
regard chalk as incapable of production. 
Gradually loosening, breaking it up, and thus 
deepening the loose depth of soil, chalk in 
time not only pulverises, but becomes fertile 
soil, especially if well manured. Chalky 
soils, because of the tendency to run together 
after heavy rains, and become close or pasty 
on the surface, need frequent hoeings, so 
soon as dry enough. Also no attempt should 
be made to work it or crop it whilst wet. On 
the other hand, chalk, being a cool base, does 
retain moisture longer than gravel or sand, 
and in that respect is helpful to crops in hot 
weather. 

To make the most of a thin surface soil oil 
a steep slope, we prefer to have the garden 
converted into a series 
of narrow terraces. 
Cast back all the Boil 
to the chalk to a width 
of 2 feet at the lower 
part, making that a cross 
footpath. Next that, fix 
along the width of the 
border, or bed, a stout 
slab of wood, quite an 
inch thick, and 10 inches 
deep when fixed. Make 
behind it a border 4 feet 
wide, and the soil, with 
deep working, should be 
from 16 inches to 
18 inches deep. Servo 
every f> feet of ground 
above right to the top in 
the same way. By so 
doing, if a little expen¬ 
sive at first, in any case 
the benefit in the end 
will be great. Not only 
w ill the borders be level, 
thus retaining all tho 
rain that falls on them, 
but the heavy washings 
which follow a rainstorm 
on a slope are avoided, 
except on the main path¬ 
ways. Turves, if obtain¬ 
able, may, in some 
cases, be used to make 
retaining supports for 
the borders as well as 
boards, but boards or 
**tnn*» or slate slabs 
would be best. On such 
borders could be grown 
all sorts of vegetables, 
'’orbs, fruit-trees, and 
bushes, Strawberries, 
aud flowers of practically 
all descriptions, peren¬ 
nial, annual, Roses, Car¬ 
nations, tender bedding 
plants. Dahlias, Chry¬ 
santhemums; indeed, 
anything, with the ex¬ 
ception of the shrubs 
previously named. Oc¬ 
cupying so exposed a 
position, your garden 
would need some shelter, 
jaruh. and for that purpose 

should be protected from 
fierce winds by walls, 
high wood fences, or 
hedges, such as of Privet, Holly, or Laurel; 
anything, in fact, that is dense, to break the 
force of the wind. You may plant any hardy 
flowers, shrubs, Roses, or climbers now, and 
sow seeds of annuals in April. Vegetable 
seeds can be sown now', and for several weeks 
onwards.] 

The Flame-flower (Tropteolum speciosum) 
In Ireland. —Of all climbing plants none can 
excel Tropjeolum speciosum in luxuriance of 
growth and beauty of colour. It is sometimes 
appropriately called the Flame-flower ou ac¬ 
count of its brilliant scarlet petals. Tho 
latter somewhat resemble those of a miniature 
Aquilegia, only the hood is very much 
smaller ; the leaf is not unlike that of Clover, 
and it may be of interest to some readers to 
kno\y that, botanically, it belongs to the 
Gcraniacca family,! of which the familiar 










18 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


March 9, 1907 


Nasturtium is also a member. With regard 
to the culture of the Tropeeolum speciosum, 
there is a great variety of opinions. A pro¬ 
minent nurseryman’s catalogue says that 
chalk and clay are injurious to it, whilst a 
friend assures me that her roots were planted 
two years ago in a compost consisting almost 
entirely of lime and mortar rubble, and now 
it has grown to such an extent that it almost 
covers one side of the house. Her advice to 
me was, “Do not coddle it, and it will do 
well.” There is no doubt about it, the 
Tropeeolum speciosum is a very hardy and a 
very accommodating plant; it is not par¬ 
ticular as to soil, though it has a liking for 
peat, and requires but little sun ; in fact, it 
thrives best in a cool, damp, shady situation, 
where the sun’s rays seldom, or never, strike 
at the roots. It may be seen at its best 
climbing over a Beech hedge. The dormant 
roots should be planted during March and 
April, about 8 inches deep, and the rich dis¬ 
play of bloom the following summer will be 
“ a thing of beauty and a joy for ever.”— 
D. B., Co. Antrim, Ireland. 


ORNAMENTAL GRASSES FOR DECORA 
TION. 

How to Grow, Gather, and Dry. 
Ornamental Grasses are so serviceable and 
ornamental, even in those days when flowers 
can be had at almost any timo of the year, 
especially by people in towns, that they are 
largely cultivated in some gardens. They 
are a boon in country districts to people who 
have no glass, and who have to depend occa¬ 
sionally at certain seasons upon Grasses and 
everlasting flowers. In many places an 
abundance of charming ornamental Grasses 
can be gathered by the roadside and in the 
fields, but the cultivated species and varie¬ 
ties afford a very beautiful variety, and a little 
space devoted to them in the garden will give 
much pleasure, both when in growth and 
when cut and dried. There are many such 
Grasses to be purchased in the form of seeds, 
but in these short notes only those which are 
easily cultivated and easily prepared are re¬ 
ferred to. The ornamental Grasses possess 
much variety, some being valued for their 
silvery plumes, others for their silky appear 
ance, or others for their graceful habit and 
forms. They are thus suited to many pur¬ 
poses, either in vases or glasses alone, or to 
ive grace to an arrangement of fresh flowers, 
ome are of perennial habit, but the greater 
number are annuals, and the cultural treat¬ 
ment they require the first year is practically 
the same. This is simply sowing them the 
same as ordinary hardy annuals in March or 
April in the open ground, the perennials be¬ 
ing afterwards pricked out and placed where 
they are to bloom. As with other annuals, 
the mistake frequently made is that of sow¬ 
ing the seeds too thickly, and, in conse¬ 
quence, the young plants are, too crowded, 
and such will never give the best results. 
Where the seedlings come up too thickly, 
they should be severely thinned out. It is 
better, however, to sow thinly at first, and 
when in beds it will be found desirable to 
sow the seeds in shallow drills. 

In collecting the Grasses for drying, they 
should not be all left until the same time, 
as they come into bloom at different periods, 
and in a group of one species there will be 
found many which are perfectly ripe while 
others are barely opening. The Grasses 
should all be gathered before they are quite 
ripe, and it requires some little judgment to 
settle upon the exact stage of development. 
If too ripe, they will become discoloured, and 
the seeds will fall off, while if gathered too 
soon they will be undeveloped, and often too 
green in colour. Some make these Grasses 
into loose bunches and hang them head down¬ 
wards from the kitchen ceiling, but they are 
better dried, when weather will permit, in 
the sun in the open air. It may be men¬ 
tioned that the Pampas Grass and Arundo 
conspicua give the best results when they are 
gathered when the plumes are just emerging 
from their sheaths, as then the plumes will 
be of almost snowy whiteness. 

Among the most useful ornamental Grasses 
such general favourites as 
of the Agrostises 


chella; Stipa pennata and S. gigantea, the 
Feather Grasses ; Eragrostis elegans, Lagu- 
rus ovatus, Bromus brizaeformis, B. patulus, 
Melica altissima, Chloris barbata, Festuca 
rigida, Uniola paniculata, Pennisetum longi- 
stylum, Hordeum jubatum, and Phalaris 
canariensis may be mentioned; while for 
more imposing work Arundo conspicua, the 
Gyneriums, or Pampas Grasses, Erianthus 
Ravennce. and Andropogon formosus may be 
mentioned. Well grown, carefully dried, and 
arranged, these Grasses are very effective in 
the house, for they give a lightness which 
cannot be produced by the use of any other 
material. 8. A. 


COUNTRY FLOWER NAMES. 

There is in the average c ountryman a vein 
of pure poetry. He sees things with an ob¬ 
servant eye, and little else is required of a 
poet. The town-dweller looks upon a plot of 
bright-liued flowers, and carries away only a 
general sense of their combined beauty and 
fragrance. He fails to discriminate. He is 
pleased with the tout ensemble —that is all. 
The countryman looks further and deeper. 
Each bloom stands out With individual dis¬ 
tinctness before him, and a month later ho 
can tell you what were the particular flowers 
of which the whole was composed. For the 
most part he prefers to refer to these flowers 
by their popular names—names which he and 
his forebears have known them by for gene¬ 
rations, and which breathe poetry in every 
syllable. Talk to him of Narcissus, or Jon¬ 
quil, or Anemones, and he will show but small 
interest. But speak of White Nancy or Daffo¬ 
dilly and he will respond readily. And this 
is as it should be. For, generally speaking, 
there is little of romance and poetry in the 
catalogued names of our popular flowers. 
Even the more ordinary class names, 6uch, 
for instance, as Pansy, he disdains to use. 
Instead, the true countryman has a round 
half-dozen pet names, suggestive of the habits 
or appearance of the flower. He knows the 
Pansy as Heart’e-ease, Love-in-idlenees, Herb- 
of-the-Trinity, Call-me-to-you, Two-faces- 
under-a-hood, or (from its spreading habits), 
Kit-run-the-streets. And each of these is 
suggestive of close observation and intense 
poetic imagination. 

Or take, again, the popular London Pride. 
Surely that in itself is sufficiently suggestive 
and sufficiently popular to meet his fancy! 
Yet it is the townsman’s folk-name for this 
useful border plant. The countryman prefers 
to speak of it by the rustic name of None-so- 
pretty, and, to my mind, he has the best of it. 
So, too, we prefer the red Valerian when it is 
spoken of as Pretty Betty; Wild Clematis 
charms us the more as Traveller’s Joy, and 
the Michaelmas Daisy is far better named 
Summer’s Farewell. The plant Honesty is 
out of fashion to-day. One meets with it 
now and again in old-fashioned gardens, 
whose owners refer to it as Money-in-both- 
poekets—a singularly suggestive name. Con¬ 
trasted with it is Poverty, the countryman's 
name for Candytuft, whose preference for a 
poor soil is thus noted. 

In the same way the Toad-flax becomes 
Roving Sailor, Hen-and-Chickens, or Mother- 
of-Thousands, which last name in other parts 
of the country is applied to the all-prevalent 
Chick-weed, and with good reason. (Saxi- 
fraga sarmentosa is also known as Mothcr-of- 
Thousands .— Ed.) The Foxglove is still, 
occasionally, spoken of as Fairy Thimbles, 
and herein we Ree a recollection of the earlier 
name of the flower, since the Foxglove was 
originally Folks’ Glove, and the folk were 
(and still are in the West country) none other 
than the pixies, or fairies of our ancestors. 
In Devon, bv-the-way, Lilac is still commonly 
called the Whitsuntide flower, just as, else¬ 
where, Daffodils are known as Lent Lilies. 

Several folk names are reminiscent of long- 
lost traditions. Thus we have the Mouse- 
ear, whose silken leaves are held to be a 
sovereign remedy for green wounds, called 
Saviour’s Blanket. The Ribbon Grass is 
known variously by the alternative titles of 
Gardener’s Garters—alliterative, though pro¬ 
saic—and Our Lady’s Tresses, or Our Lady's 
Laces, a purely poetic name. Then, again, 
the Canterbury Bed is altered to The Little 


Steeple-bell Flower, which, albeit it is long, 
can hardly be improved upon. Many flowers, 
by-the-way, have no other name (except, of 
course, their botanical one) than the old 
folk name of the country tongue. Thus we 
have Thrift, Forget-me-not, Wallflower, Sun¬ 
flower. and Marigold, all redolent of the love 
in which they are held by their early culti¬ 
vators. 

It will be observed that- in every case it is 
the popular old-fashioned flowers that are 
thus favoured. For the modern flower—the 
Chrysanthemum, the Tulip, the Phlox, and 
the like, the countryman has no name. They 
are new, foreign to the soil, and, therefore, 
much as ho may admire them, they have no 
meaning for him. He has not observed them 
with sufficient closeness, nor loved them with 
so life-loug a love as to deem them worthy of a 
special title. Therefore it is that lie is con¬ 
tent to call them by “ outlandish ” names, a.s 
to the meaning of which he has no notion, and 
which are, and must remain, so far a* he is 
concerned, mere labels. J. Hingkley. 


THE PYRENEAN ADONIS (ADONIS 
PYRENAICA). 

One of the handsomest of the Adonises 
of perennial habit is Adonis pyrenaica, which, 
although it has been introduced to this 
country for about ninety years, is but little 
seen, even where hardy plants are much 
appreciated and largely cultivated. ThiB is 
unfortunate, as it is one of the prettiest of 
our early flowers, and. in some respects, 
equals the earlier-blooming A. vernalis— 
much more plentiful, and a plant which 
should be grown everywhere. Its value is 
not, perhaps, so great as that of A. vernalis, 
inasmuch as it comes into bloom at a time 
when hardy flowers are plentiful; but it is 
so distinct in appearance from other flowers 
of its time that a place may well be found for 
it. Its blooming season is generally given as 
July, but it usually begins flowering in June, 
and lasts until well into the later month. 
Not, perhaps, quite so easily grown as A. ver¬ 
nalis, it is yet very satisfactory, and I am 
acquainted with gardens in different parts of 
England and Scotland where it has been well 
established. It appears to prefer a rather 
lighter soil than its sister flower of spring, 
but, at the same time, it must not bo allowed 
to suffer from drought, a contingency not un¬ 
known with plants such as this at the season 
at which it flowers. 

Adonis pyrenaica, when well established, 
forms a handsome plant, from a foot to a foot 
and a-half high, and giving from its stems, 
clothed with prettily divided leaves, its almost 
sessile flowers, of a good yellow, only a little 
less effective than those of the best forms 
of A. vernalis. It should have a free loam, 
with the addition of a little well-rot ted 
manure or some leaf-soil, and is best planted 
in ejirly spring. It does well in a place 
slightly shaded from the morning sun, so 
that it may be at its best later in the day, 
when its beauties will be more seen than in 
the morning. Where seeds are procurable, 
they should be sown as soon as ripe, but divi¬ 
sion of large plants is a ready method of in¬ 
crease. It is, however, undesirable to dis¬ 
turb any of the Adonises moro frequently 
than can bo avoided and a large plant is 
much more ornamental than a few small ones. 
As may be surmised from its specific name, 
A. pyrenaica is a native of the Pyrenees, 
whence it was introduced in 1817. 

Dumfries. S. Arnott. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Building a pergola.—I am a subscriber to your 
paper, and should be glad of your advice on the following 
matter: I am building a pergola of four pairs of terra¬ 
cotta columns, each 10 feet apart, making a length of 
30 feet. It is comparatively open, on a terrace overlook¬ 
ing the croquet lawn. The 'position is certainly exposed 
to strong west wind. Will " tarred timber ” be sufficient, 
instead of Oak, os a wooden cross-beam on the top of the 
columns?—L. M. N. 

[On no account use tarred timber. If you 
use Larch, have it split up the middle. See 
the articles which have appeared on Pergolas 
in our issues of December 8th. 1906, page 563 ; 
December 29th, 1906, page 605; and January 
12th, 1907, page 635 ; and also the one in this 
jssye, rpsge, 17.] 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




March 9, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


19 



THE BIRD’S-EYE PRIMROSE (PRIMULA 
FARINOSA). 

This charming native species has small 
rosettes of silvery leaves, and flower-stems 
generally 6 inches to 12 inches high, though 
sometimes more. The flowers, which are ! 
borne in a compact umbel in early summer, 
are lilac-pur pie with a yellow eye. They 
vary a little in colour, there being shades of 
pink. rose, and deep crimson. In our gardens i 
it loves a moist vegetable soil, and in moist 
and elevated parts of the country it flourishes 
in the rock-garden and in slightly elevated ! 
beds without any attention; but in most dis¬ 
tricts a little care is necessary. In the rock- 
garden it is perfectly at home in a moist, 
deep, and well-drained crevice, filled with 
peaty soil or fibrous sandy loam. In the 
drier districts it would be well to cover the 
soil with Cocoa-fibre, leaf-mould, or broken 
bits of sandstone to protect the surface from 
being baked and from excessive evaporation. 
P. f. acaulis is a very diminutive variety of 
the preceding. The flowers nestle in the 
hearts of the leaves, and both flowers and 
leaves are very small. When a number of 
plants are grown together, they form a 
charming little cushion of leaves and flowers 


ROOM AND WINDOW. 

FLORAL DECORATIONS. 

About this season a somewhat heavy strain 
will be put upon the cut-flower supply, 
especially in gardens where the conveniences 
for bringing plants into bloom are not equal 
to the demand.. It is, therefore, essential to 
economise to the utmost in such cases, and 
those who have the arrangement of the de¬ 
corations can greatly aid in this direction in 
more ways than one. In the first place, a 
judicious use must be made of the material 
at command (both flowers and foliage), bear¬ 
ing in mind that an artistic effect is not pro¬ 
duced by excessive crowding, nor by indiscri¬ 
minate mixing of various varieties of flowers 
or colours. We have seen arrangements 
which would have looked much better when 
finished, if half, and in some cases two-thirds, 
of the flowers had been removed and a trifle 
more foliage used instead. In the second 
place, it frequently happens that large parties 
are held in quick succession, and where only 
a day or two intervenes, some at least of the 
flowers used can be kept over from one to 
the other by removing them to a cooler place, 
and, where possible, immersing the stems 


The Bird's-eye Primrose (Primula farinosa). From a photograph in the Cambridge Botanic Garden. 


corations have been carried out without taste 
or skill. The producer, in short, often g«-is 
blamed when he least deserves to be. Where 
gardeners are allowed to perform such work 
themselves, they are able to do it with much 
loss waste of material than when it is en¬ 
trusted to others. 

CUT FLOWERS AND THEIR 
PRESERVATION. 

At this season, when so many flowers are re¬ 
quired for table and other decorations, it is 
difficult to keep up a constant supply in all 
but the largest establishments. As if to make 
matters worse, too, how often do the flowers 
on the dinner-table look quite faded, even 
before the guests have risen from the table. 
Hard forcing is sometimes the cause of much 
of this annoyance, but in that case it is to 
the gardener we must look for the remedy, 
or rather prevention of this failure; but 
more often, as many will agree, flowers will 
flag, spite of all our efforts. Hot rooms, 
especially where much gas is burnt and an 
extra dry atmosphere maintained, are the 
most speedily fatal to many flowers, and no 
remedy has ever been suggested that is suf¬ 
ficiently powerful to counteract this evil. It 
is well, therefore, resolutely to face the 
difficulty, and avoid such flowers and 
Ferns as cannot be induced to last for 
twenty-four hours at least. It is sur¬ 
prising how many very effective bou¬ 
quets or graceful combinations can be 
made with a comparatively small 
variety of flowers and foliage. No one 
who lives in a town will cut Maiden¬ 
hair Fern to mix with his cut blooms 
unless he is prepared to renew it daily, 
1 but this will last much longer (some¬ 
times for days) if it is plunged into 
water, so as to cover it entirely, and 
allowed to soak for a day before being 
used. 

Another simple rule is never to cram 
your vases with flowers; many will last 
if only they have a large mass of water 
in the vase and not too many stalks to 
feed on the water and pollute it. Tho 
importance of this simple rule is really 
very great, and it is one of the healthy 
signs of the improved tastes of the dav 
to find vases that hold a large quantity 
of water now preferred to the spindle- 
shaped trumpets that once were all tho 
rage. Flat dishes, filled with wet 
sand, arc also useful for economically 
using up short-stalked or heavy-headed 
flowers; even partially withered blooms 
will revive when placed on this cool, 
moist substance. Moss, though far 
prettier than sand, should be avoided, 
as it so soon smells disagreeably, and 
always interferes with the scent of the 
flowers placed in it. When flowers 
in winter are brought out of warm- 
houses into the dry air of a house 


not more than £ inch high. Being so small, 
the plant should have greater care, whether 
it is grown in the rock-garden or in pots. P. 
scotica is a native plant similar to P. fari¬ 
nosa, and requires similar treatment. The 
flowers, which come in April, are rich purple, 
with a yellow eye, and are borne on stems a 
few inches high. Native of damp pastures 
in the northern counties of Scotland.—R. 

- The BirdVeye Primrose ie native of 

Northern and Central Europe, including 
Britain from Yorkshire northwards, where it 
is found in bogs and pastures. It is a gem 
for the bog garden, or any moderately damp 
situation, where it is sheltered from the mid¬ 
day sun. The pretty lilac-coloured flowers 
have a yellow eye, and are borne on scapes 
from 6 inches to a foot in height. As can be 
*eeo from the illustration, it is a very free- 
flowering plant, and when not in bloom is in¬ 
teresting on account of its prettily white 
powdered foliage. It can be grown success¬ 
fully in a pot or pan, and if kept in a cold 
frame comes into flower in May, a month 
earlier than when planted in the open ground. 
-E. J. Al lard. _ 

Adiantums failing (A).— It is impossible to state 
vhyyour Maiden-hair Ferns tum brown, but possibly the 
t-nder fronds developed during the dull weather have 
been burnt by bright sunshine. 


'Google 


: deeper in water. This should be seen to as 
quickly as possible after the festivities are 
brought to a close, for if left for a few hours 
< longer than is necessary in a heated room 
some will be past recovery. Foliage of fair 
[ persistency may be kept in a good condition 
, for future use, and where a large quantity is 
[ in request, we would recommend the dwarf 
and coinpact-growing Davallias to be culti- 
! vated in quantity as one would the Maiden¬ 
hair Fern. In the third place, if any con¬ 
siderable space intervenes between the time 
when the flowers are cut and when arranged, 
caused either by having to be packed for 
transit or other unforeseen occurrences, they 
should all have the ends of the stems cut 
| afresh. This is frequently overlooked, hut is 
! of more importance than many imagine. 

Lastly, but certainly not least, is the fact 
I that those who have charge of decorations 
should also have a knowledge of the natural 
growth of the flowers which they are called 
| upon to arrange. Work of this kind is often 
performed by persons who have no knowledge 
of or taste for arrangement. Gardeners have 
to produce the material, but we know that 
I when this has been done in many cases to tho 
I utmost possible extent, an utter disregard has 
[ been paid to the quantity used and the de¬ 


after being exposed, on their way. 
for a shorter or longer time to the cold 
outer air, and are put into ice-cold water, 
no wonder many succumb to such ill-treat¬ 
ment. If, on the other hand, they were 
popped at once into a good large basin of 
blood-warm water (or even still hotter) till 
they could be arranged properly, and the 
water in which they are finally placed be alBo 
warm, many people would be surprised to seo 
how great a saving in trouble would result. 

Flowers in the house.— If forced Lilac 
bushes are hardened in a lower temperature 
after leaving the forcing-house they will last 
some time in the rooms; Azaleas and 
Deutzias also keep well in careful hands. 
Cinerarias are not popular, because they aro 
subject to insects, but if vaporised before 
being taken indoors they will last well. We 
sometimes have complaints about Genistas 
dropping their flowers and foliage, especially 
if the watering is neglected. They are strong¬ 
rooting, and require a good deal of support. 

Growing Ccelogyne cristata ( J. Horton).— 
You will find an illustration and article dealing with 
the cultivation of the plant you send label of (Ccelo- 
liyne cristata) in our issue of November 10th, 1900, 
p. 511. A copy of the abov'e can be had of the pub¬ 
lisher. !pp$|, tree-tqr 1J<L 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 









20 


GARDENING ILL USTR . IT ED. 


March 9, 1907 


INDOOR PLANTS. 

FORCING FLOWERING PEACHES AND 
ALMONDS. 

No one who has seen ft well-flowered pot- 
plant of the richly-coloured double crimson 
Peach, or the equally beautiful double white, 
can deny their valuable decorative qualities 
at this season of the year. Frequently one 
meets with poorly-flowered plants that give 
one the impression that they had recently 
been dug up out of the ground and forced*; 
but this is just the way to court failure. As 
most gardeners are aware, the plants must 
be potted fully twelvemonths before required 
for forcing, and if they have been in their 
pots four or five years without being repotted, 
so much finer will the blossoming he. Some 
of our best bushes receive nothing but a top- 
dressing each year, excepting liquid-manure, 
which they greedily utilise. 

Keep the plants outdoors until about six 
weeks before they are wanted in bloom ; then 
introduce them to a gentle heat. Weak doses 
of guano-water, applied when buds are swell- 
g* ve splendid blossoms, and well repay 
the cultivator for using them. After flowering 
it is well to prune the plants a little, getting 
them as shapely as possible without depriv-- 
mg them of too much wood. Grow them on 
under glass for two or three weeks, then, 
when growth is firm, place them outdoors in 
a sunny position. 

Ill starting a collection of these valuable 
shrubs, it is well to commence with yearling 
plants, and pot them up early in autumn. 
Keep them outdoors as long as practicable, 
but if severe weather threatens, the plants 
must be housed against frost, as the bloom- 
buds, also wood, suffer if exposed. After the 
frosts have gone it is well to put the plants 
outside again, and keep them there all sum¬ 
mer, plunged in coal-ashes, and kept watered 
when required. \y X. 


SEEDS FROM NEW ZEALAND. 

I have received packets of seeds, as per list, from the 
Botanical Gardens, Dunedin, New Zealand, without 
directions. My gardener knows nothing about them 
* should, therefore, be glad if you will tell me 
whether all, or some of them, are worth growing, and 
what heat they require (I can maintain 60 degs. Fah.)? 
Any hints re culture would be greatly esteemed : Olema- 
tis lndivisa, Senecio compact us, Veronica CataracUe 
Ounsia sp Senecio in variety, Cordyline Banksi! 
„• lumviBa, I normiuni ten ax var. purpureum, P. t. mixed 
varieties, P. Oolensoi, Metrosideros lucida, Celmieia 

[Several of the New Zealand plants on the 
enclosed list are very ornamental, but some 
of them, owing to their size, are not seen at 
their best in a greenhouse. With a few ex¬ 
ceptions, plants natives of New Zealand are 
not thoroughly hardy in the greater part of 
this country ; still, they are nearly so, and 
in the West of England and in Ireland they 
form handsome specimens out-of-doors. We 
herewith append a brief description of each, 
as far as we can verify the names Clematis 
indivisa is a beautiful and very popular green¬ 
house climber that bears a profusion of pure 
white starry flowers in March or April. Seed¬ 
lings will take some time to attain flowering 
size, but a good plant to bloom may be bought 
in a nursery for half-a-crown. Senecio com- 
pactus, elreagnifolius and Greyi are evergreen 
shrubs related to the Groundsel family, with 
heads of yellowish flowers. All have leaves 
more or less silvery underneath. Veronica 
Cataractae is a dwarf, slow-growing shrub, 
with pinkish blossoms. The Ourisias are 
dwarf-growing herbaceous plants, with, for 
the most part, red blossoms. A cool, moist 
spot is necessary to their well-doing. Cordy- 
linc Banksi and Cordyline indivisa are two 
well-known plants. The latter is very rare, 
though a few thriving specimens are to be 
met with out-of-doors in the West of England. 
Another species, viz., C. australis, is often 
grown in gardens und nurseries as C. indivisa. 

Phormium ten ax is the New Zeuland Flax, 
which naturally forms a t-uft of sword-like 
leaves, in vigorous examples as much as 6feet 
long and 5 inches wide. It may be often seen 
associated with other fine-foliaged plants in 
the London parks during the su 
Tl^e variety pur/ureuHrvh 


bronzy tint, and Colensoi is altogether a 
smaller plant than the type. In the south 
and west of this country these do well planted 
near the water. Metrosideros lucida is a 
rambling shrub with dark green glossy leaves 
and white blossoms. It belongs to the Myrtle 
family. Celmisia coriacea and C. verbasci- 
folia are low-growing plants with a spreading 
rosette of whitish leaves and Aster-like blos¬ 
soms. Plagianthus Lyalli in New Zealand 
attains the dimensions of a tree 20 feet to 
30 feet in height. It belongs to the Mallow 
family, and bears in July pure white flowers 
H inch across, with golden anthers. These, 
hanging as they do on rather long stalks, al¬ 
most suggest the blossoms of a Cherry. This 
thrives well in the neighbourhood of London, 
if given the protection of a wall. Dianella 
intermedia is a Sedge-like plant whose leaves 
are well overtopped by branching panicles of 
small whitish flowers. These are succeeded 
by berries which, when ripe, arc of a pretty 
blue tint, but they do not remain long in this 
stage. 

We should recommend you to sow all the 
seeds in clean, well-drained pots or pans in 
a mixture of two parts loam and two parts 
peat to one of silver sand. When sown they 
should be covered with soil to about their 
own depth, and stood in the structure which 
is maintained at a temperature of about 
60 degs. They should be placed in a shaded 
part of the house, or have some newspapers 
laid over the pots. As the seed germinates 
the young plants must be gradually exposed 
to light and air, and in summer a cold-frame 
is a good place for them. When large enough 
they must be potted singly into small pots, 
and from that time need t-o be treated in 
accordance with the general run of green¬ 
house plants.] 


light soil, consisting of equal portions of 
turfy loam and fibrous peat, sifted through 
a fine sieve, and mixed with plenty of 
sharp silver sand. Fill 4$-inch pots with 
this compost, pressing it firmly into the pots, 
put a little clean silver sand on the surface, 
and water through a fine rose. The cuttings 
may then be inserted round the sides of the 
pots. Place the cuttings in a propagating pit 
or house, and when rooted, pot them off 
singly into 3-inch pots, using the same com¬ 
post as for the cuttings, with a portion of 
leaf-mould added, but with less sand. After 
potting, place the plants in the same tem¬ 
perature as before until they get well estab¬ 
lished, when they may be transferred to a 
cooler house and be shifted into larger pots. 
They will soon grow into useful flowering 
plants. When the pots get full of roots they 
will be greatly benefited by being fed either 
with liquid-manure or with some other fer¬ 
tiliser. 

V ou can cut the tops off your leggy plants 
and insert them as cuttings in the way ad¬ 
vised above. This cutting-down will cause 
young shoots to break from the bottom, 
these making the best cuttings. If you wish 
you may pot on when growing freely 


BEGONIA METALLIC A. 


the 

ong. 



information respecting 

treatment of this Begonia. Should I cut back the lc... 
bare stems which have only a leaf or two at the top? 
Many of them do not break at all. At what time 
should this be done to prevent their dying off? Should 
they be watered freely, and w hat kind of soil is best ? I 
want to grow nice, bushy plants, as they are so good for 
conservatory or room decoration. Am I right as to 
name? The leaves are green, deeply veined, and very 
glossy.—Wv EH IDE. 

[This is one of the very best of Begonias 
either for summer or for winter use, and, in 
addition to its flowers, its bronzy leaves make 
it a desirable plant for grouping along with 
others in the intermediate house during win¬ 
ter and in the cool greenhouse during 
summer. The flowers, which are of a light, 
rosy colour, are set upon stalks sufficiently 
long to show' them up well above the foliage’ 
Young healthy plants of this Begonia growing 
in 4^-inch or 6-inch pots will be found to last 
a long time in flower when used in rooms or 
in windows, and email neatly-grown plants of 
it are suitable for dinner-table decoration, 
the bronzy foliage looking well upon the 
white table-cloth. The flowers, too, when 
cut, are very useful. In order to keep up a 
supply of flowering plants all the year round, 
recourse must be had to cuttings. * A few put | 
in early in February will yield a plentiful 1 
supply of flowers during the summer and 
autumn if grown in a cool house or pit, and 
few plants will grow and flower more freely 
in a shady conservatory, heavily draped with 
climbers, than this Begonia. Another supply 
of young plants should be raised from cut¬ 
tings put in about the middle of July, and 
kept growing on in a pit or house as close to 
the glass as possible. Pick off the flower- 
stems as they appear, which will induce the 
plants to be more vigorous and healthy. At 
the end of October or beginning of November 
place them in the coolest end of a plant stove, 
or intermediate house, and if in good healthy 
condition they will be in full flower by Christ¬ 
mas, and will keep up a supply of bloom for 
six or eight months. 

This variety of Begonia will be found to be 
suitable for planting out against the back 
wall of a warm house, or to train up pillars 
or rafters. In order to obtain strong, healthy 
plants, which will yield a supply of bloom in 
a short space of time, select cuttings from old 
plants which have been previously cut down. 
Cuttings made of shoots growing from the 
base of old plants will be found to root freely. 
Let them be 4 inches long, strike them in 


these old plants, w'hich, owing toT having 
been cut down, ought to make nice, bushy 
specimens.] 

NOTES AND REPLIES . 

Zonal Pelargoniums.— 1, Should Zonal Pelargo 
mums (second and third year), be cut down before flower 
lug again next summer? 2. If so, when should the plants 
be pruned, and how cloBe? 3, When should old Zonals 
for summer flowering be repotted? 4, Should the roots 
be reduced and the plants repotted into pots a size 
smaller for the winter? Show and Fancy Pelargoniums I 
know are cut down close, roots reduced, repotted into a 
size smaller, repotting again in January. But f do not 
know whether the same treatment applies to Zonals.- 
Amatei R. 

[(1 and 2) If you wish for large plant* of 
the Zonal Pelargoniums (and in many gardens 
they are much appreciated), they need not be 
cut down at all, but, if repotted now, will 
flower throughout the summer. On the other 
hand, if you need comparatively dwarf plants, 
your old ones should be cut down at once. 
No exact height can be given to which the 
plants may be cut back to, but, in a general 
way, it will be from 6 inches to 8 inches. The 
pruning®, especially the upper parts of the 
shoots, will make good cuttings, taking them 
off at a length of 4 inches to 5 inches, and in¬ 
serting them into pots or boxes of sandy soil. 
A nice light shelf in a warm part of the green 
house is the best place for them. There they 
will soon root, and if potted off singly and 
encouraged to grow they will be ready for 
planting out during the summer. As soon as 
the old plants push out new shoots, they 
should be turned out of the pots, most of the 
soil shaken off, and have the long, straggling 
roots shortened back. Then it is better to 
put them into pots a size or two smaller till 
they thoroughly take possession of the new 
soil, when they must be shifted into their 
flowering pots. (3 and 4) We do not know' 
whether the questions refer to plants jn pots 
or those planted out. If to plants in pots, it 
will be better to allow them to remain undis¬ 
turbed till the middle of this month, but if the 
plants have been planted out, both roots and 
tops may be shortened hack in potting them. 
The treatment named by you is quite cor¬ 
rect for the show and fancy varieties, and the 
Zonals might be treated in the same way, but 
their season of blooming would be much cur¬ 
tailed, as they continue to flower long after 
the show and fancy varieties are past. When 
the Zonals have finished, it is too late to cut 
them down, hence they are best left till 
February.] 

Pruning greenhouse climbers.—What is the 
proper time to out back greenhouse climbers, such as 
Cob®a scandens, Passion-flower, and Dutchman’s Pipe 
Ought they to be cut back almost level with the pot, or 
only a short bit taken off ? When they are growing during 
the* summer should they be pinched often to make them 
branch ? Mine always have one loDg stem.—L. S. K. 

[The present is a good time to prune tno 
greenhouse climbers named by you, but the 
extent to which this is carried out will de 
pend upon the space they have to cover. 
They must on no account, be cut back nearly 
level with the pot ;i indeed, if there is vacant 
space to cover these climbers will Dot need 
any pruning whateve-r. If the climbers are 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




March 9, 1907 


GARDENING IIIUST Pud T ED. 


on a roof which is fairly well covered with 
them the pruning should in a general way be 
limited to the secondary shoots or sprays, 
leaving the main branches untouched. These 
sprays may be cut back to within two or three 
eyes of the base, and if the young shoots then 
produced therefrom are allowed to dispose 
themselves in a natural and informal manner, 
a pleasing effect will be the result. Where 
the shoots have got into a tangled mass they 
may be cut away. If your plants (presumably 
young ones) only have one stem, it should be 
cut back a little in order to induce the pro¬ 
duction of secondary branches. Towards the 
same end the shoots may in summer have the 


soft, weak shoots, as they will not develop 
into vigorous branches. From now the water 
supply can be increased, but care must be 
taken not to get the soil too wet, as the roots 
are not very active yet. Directly the young 
shoots are about an inch long the plants 
should be repotted, as the soil in which they 
are now is, in all probability, quite ex¬ 
hausted. A good compost is a mixture of 
loam, leaf-mould, and sand, of which you 
could obtain a small quantity already mixed 
from any nurseryman in your neighbourhood. 
In advising repotting, we do not mean putting 
them into larger pots, for, in all probability, 
pots the same size as they were in last sum- 


Oyclamen Giant White. 


tops pinched out, but the more this is clone 
tlie less will be the production of blossoms.] 

Treatment of Pelargoniums and. Fuchsias. 

-1 have some Pelargonium* and Fuchsias standing on a 
ihelf in the scullery. The Pelargoniums have soft shoots 
» them. I want to move them to a cold window with a 
tooth aspect, or a cold frame. Will you kindly tell roe 
iow to treat them ? They have been kept short of water. 
-Catkokd. . , .. . 

[The cold window with a south aspect 
ihould be a very suitable place for your 
slants, taking care to remove them there- 
rom in the event of a very sharp frost. Be- 
ore putting them in their new quarters the 
ilants should all be gone over, and any 
traggling shoots shortened back, so that when 
he new growth takear-ptece the plants will 
>e neat, symmetricllly-skay d f94vf ns ; 
fou need not mind cuttinfeNSay so^d Vf the 


liter will he ample. In repotting, the plants 
should lie turned out of their pots, three parts 
of the old suil removed, and any straggling 
roots shortened back. The pots must he quite 
j clean inside and out, and quite dry, so that 
if you intend using these the plants are now 
in thev may be turned out. the pots washed 
and dried as soon as possible. Before pot¬ 
ting, some broken crocks or oyster-shells 
should be put in the bottom for drainage. 
After potting, watering must be very care¬ 
fully done till the roots are again active.] 
Unheated glass-houses.— These are very 
common in the south of England, especially 
on the south coast, for, as a rule, the winters 
are very mild, and a glass roof is enough to 
keep a good many useful plants safely through 


the winter. When, however, we get severe 
frost, such as we have lately experienced, 
they are practically useless, and if it is wortli 
going to the expense of erecting a glass_ 
house, it is surely worth heating the same. 1 
see by the horticultural press that market 
growers in Jersey and Guernsey are putting 
hot-water apparatus into most of their cold- 
liouses, and if these men find healed houses 
more profitable than unheated ones, surely 
the man who has a glass-house for a hobby 
should have it heated sufficiently to keep the 
frost out, hut so that a temperature for 
growing whatever class of plants he delights 
in can he maintained.— James Groom, 
Gosport. 

Coronilla glauca. This is a very old- 
fashioned plant, not so often met with as it 
deserves. In the favoured districts of this 
country it may be looked upon as hardy, but 
in most parte it must be considered only as an 
occupant of the greenhouse. This Coronilla 
naturally forms a freely branched bush, whose 
slender shoots are clothed with prettily 
divided leaves of a distinct glaucous tint, m 
this respect reminding one somewhat of the 
Rue. The flowers, borne in small, compact 
umbels, are Pea-shaped, and of a clear yellow 
colour, a very pleasing tint. It is not so 
dwarf, neither does it give at any time such a 
mass of bloom as Cytisus racemosus, and this 
is probably the reason that its place is now 
often taken by the latter. As a good-sized 
bush the Coronilla is more graceful, but the 
two are so distinct that a place may well be 
found for both. The flowers of the Coronilla 
give off a pleasing fragrance (luring sunshine. 
There is a variegated leaved variety, but it is 
not often met with. This Coronilla will grow 
in ordinary potting compost with the treat¬ 
ment given to the general run of greenhouse 
plants.—X. 

IMPROVEMENT IN CYCLAMENS. 

On looking through a house filled entirely 
with Cyclamens to day (January 22nd), the 
majority of the plants being in full bloom, 
one could not help drawing a contrast be¬ 
tween the present-day varieties and those 
in cultivation some twenty and more years 
ago, both as to the size and quality of the 
flowers and the great range of colours in 
which they can now be. had. A house filled 
with Cyclamens, in which all the best types 
and colours are represented, is a flower-show 
in itself, and visitors, as a rule, never pass 
hurriedly through, but linger to admire, so 
handsome and attractive do they find them. 
The Giant strains, when well grown, are a 
host in themselves, tho colours ranging from 
pure white to rich crimson. The latest addi¬ 
tion to this type is the Giant Pink, which 
has already become exceedingly popular, the 
flowers being pale salmon, and in some in- 
stances a rich salmon-pink. This, like the 
older and beautiful Salmon Queen variety, 
never fails to attract attention, and the same 
may be said of Vulcan, although Giant Crim¬ 
son almost approaches it in depth of colour¬ 
ing. Giant Cherry, red, is a very brilliant- 
coloured variety, and the Giant Crimson and 
White forms produce enormous flowers, and 
are exceedingly showy. Giant Purple is, 
perhaps, the least attractive as far as colour 
is concerned, but the flowers serve to give 
variety, and are useful, as they all arc, for 
house'decoration. The newest introduction 
is Carmine Queen, but, as this has yet to bo 
crown and proved, more cannot be said about 
it now. Enough has, however, been said to 
prove what valuable and highly decorative 
plants Cyclamens are, and, when the length 
of time during which they may bo had in 
flower is taken into consideration, they are 
indispensable through the winter and spring 

m °_Those who make a point of growing 

plants during the summer for the purpose of 
providing blossoms in their greenhouses 
during winter and early spring, and who omit 
Cyclamens, exclude some of the most charm¬ 
ing and continuous blooming subjects it is 
possible to have. Cyclamens take up com¬ 
paratively little room on a greenhouse stage, 
are attractive long before they bloom, by rea¬ 
son of their foliage, are not difficult to deal 
with, and, what is not a little important in 
these days, may be grown just as well m a 

l IRRAMA-f'HAMPAIf^M 










99 


GARDENIA'G ILLUSTB . ITED. 


March 9, 1907 


moderate-sized house with other things as in 
a place specially set aside for their culture. I 
am writing these notes towards the end of 
January, when plants I have have been in 
bloom some weeks now, and there is scarcely 
any diminution in the quantity or quality of 
the blossoms. It is the brightness of the 
blossoms which makes a house so cheerful in 
the dark days of winter for so long together 
that is doing so much to popularise them 
every year, and to bring about a change of 
front with some who once judged them to be 
“just a little beyond ” them. 

Few things grown from seed require so 
simple treatment as do these, and a word as to 
the culture they need, especially to those who 
have hitherto refrained from growing them, 
may be opportune. Some firms make a special¬ 
ty of them, and in purchasing seed it is tho 
better plan to deal with such, as no expense 
or trouble is spared to put on the market 
flowers’of merit, and this is seen by a visit to 
some establishment, where it is the practice 
to grow not only many varieties, but to have 
them in bloom following each other, amd 
thus from about October to May a show is 
always to be seen. The one who has a small 
house cannot find room, perhaps, for more 
than a few plants, but those few should be of 
the best quality; they-take no more looking 
after than indifferent strains. Seed may be 
sown almost at once in pans of soil composed 
of loam and leaf-mould well incorporated, 
and passed through a sieve, the rougher por¬ 
tions being placed over the crocks at the 
bottom of the pan, and it is just as well to 
mix with the compost some coarse silver- 
sand, which will assist drainage. This is an 
important point, and one not always appre¬ 
ciated, and through neglect in this particular 
seedlings damp off, and so failures occur in 
the initial 6tage. When the soil has been 
placed in the pans and made smooth and firm, 
seed should be scattered thinly, or, better 
still, each seed should be pressed into the 
compost, and covered, then partly—but only 
partly—putting over the pan a sheet of glass, 
and standing in a propagating pit. When 
the seedlings are ready for removal they 
should be potted off, or placed in other pans, 
but retained in a warm position in the house 
for a time until they have become estab¬ 
lished, and it is 6een they are progressing 
satisfactorily. Here, again, the grower will 
need to exercise much watchfulness, as it is 
surprising how soon they will damp off if 
over-watered, and. therefore, the “‘happy 
medium/’ neither too wet nor too dry, should 
be aimed at. There is, perhaps, more in the 
argument than is at first apparent—that it is 
better to let the first transplanting of seed¬ 
ling Cyclamens be into boxes than small pots, 
owing to the liability, when in the latter, 
to be either too often dried up or too often 
watered—at any rate, when in a pan or box 
they are more easily deult with whilst so 
young. In the removal, whenever it takes 
place, every core should be taken not to dis¬ 
turb the roots more than absolutely neces¬ 
sary, as to do so inevitably results in a check 
being given. 

As in the case of Primulas, it is unwise to 
bury the “ collar ” of the plant when shifting 
from one pot to another, so with Cyclamens, 
the centre of the corms should be left free 
from the compost. Nor will these beautiful 
winter-flowering plants bear delay when they 
are ready for removal without giving evidence 
that such delay is injurious, and when the 
thread-like roots searching for fresh material 
begin to show prominently, another removal 
must be arranged if success is to be achieved. 
In regard to the compost for the further pot¬ 
ting, let it be improved bv the addition of a 
small quantity of bone-meal or partly decayed 
cow manure. 

Mention has been made that Cyclamens 
are suitable for small greenhouses : let it not 
be forgotten that they do very well if grown 
in heated pits, where they can be kept near 
the glues, and in a greenhouse, no better 
place after they have had one or two re¬ 
movals can be found than a shelf near the 
roof. As the summer comes on shading will 
he necessary, and it will no longer be needful 
to keep them in the house, but a cold frame, 
the floor of which haT'been well covfered with 
line g.slie.s, will melt fcA|ij|r?ments 


so far as situation is concerned, during the 
summer months. It will be necessary to 
keep a watchful eye on them for the attack of 
green-fly, but vaporising or syringing the 
plants after a hot day will rid them of these 
* undesirables.’* Some of the most forward 
lants will show 6igns of blooming before 
looms are wanted, and, indeed, before the 
plants have made proper growth. These 
should be pinched off when they appear, and 
every effort centralised on building up the 
plants. Again, as the approach of autumn is 
felt by colder nights, the plants must be 
transferred to the greenhouse, but neither 
here nor in their summer quarters in the 
frames must they be pushed up one against 
another if any regard is - paid to attractive 
foliage. To sum up, Cyclamens want careful 
treatment in all stages of growth, a winter 
temperature of about 55 degs., and one may 
have blossoms extended over many weeks— 
may have plants grow-n in any sizedpots from 
60’s up to 8 inches—fit either for stage or 
table decoration, and that will give much 
pleasure at a comparatively little outlay. 

Leahurst. 


OROHIDS. 

DENDROBIUM NOBILE. 

Wiik.n is the best time to repot this plant? Can 1 do it 
directly after it has done Howerinsr, or must I wait until 
the young growths have made some roots?—P. C. II. 

[This may be repotted at, any time when 
not in active growth. The best time is when 
the young shoots are about a couple of inches 
in length, but before they commence to emit 
roots. By doing it at this time the roots get 
the benefit of the new compost. Never wait 
until new roots are actually formed, or it. is 
quite impossible to avoid injuring them. D. 
Mobile may be grown either in pots or sus¬ 
pended from the roof in baskets. Skilled 
growers arc in the habit of using manures of 
various kinds in the compost, but these are 
better left alone by the beginner or anyone 
inexperienced in Orchid culture. Good peat 
fibre and Sphagnum form tI\e best basis, and 
for strong plants a little loam fibre may also 
be added, witli abundance oF rough nodules of 
charcoal and potsherds. The drainage must 
occupy at least half the depth of pot or 
basket, and a fairly deep make of pot is, in 
most cases, preferable to shallow pans, 
though the latter are useful for large speci¬ 
men plants requiring plenty of width. If the 
plants are well rooted in the old pots, and 
the compost in not too bad condition, but 
little disturbance will be needed, simply cut¬ 
ting out any dead roots that may be conveni¬ 
ently got at, and picking out loose portions of 
the old compost. With plants in this satis¬ 
factory state, a good shift will be advisable, 
a pot at least two sizes larger than the old 
one being allowed. Place the plant in the 
centre at a sufficient height to allow of the 
rounding of the surface, and fill up to the 
base of the new shoots with the compost. 
Trim off the surface neatly and replace in the 
warm house. 

Very fine specimens are produced by mass¬ 
ing a suitable number of the young stems that 
are often produced from the upper part of 
the old ones, but a little more care is neces¬ 
sary in potting. Begin at one side of the pot 
or pan, and plant them regularly at a dis¬ 
tance of about 3 inches apart all over the 
surface, placing a neat, strong stake to each 
to steady it, choosing the growths so that the 
taller ones come in the centre, the compost, 
as in the former case, being raised in a con¬ 
vex mound. Through the growing season a 
brisk, moist atmosphere and high tempera¬ 
ture are needed, and the plants must not be 
heavily shaded—only, in fact, just in the 
middle of the day. Tho terminal leaves show- 
in due course, and when the growth is nearly 
finished, allow' the plants full exposure to 
sun, giving plenty of water to the roots. This 
causes them to swell up fine large pseudo¬ 
bulbs or stems, and when these are quite 
finished remove the plants from the warm, 
moist house and place them in a cooler and 
drier structure in the full sun, and where 
they have plenty of air. If not later than 
the middle of August, they may be placed 
outside with advantage for a week or two, 


but must be returned under cover before any 
danger from frost is apprehended. Strive, in 
short, by all means to thoroughly ripen and 
harden the growth, and give enough water to 
keep the pseudo-bulbs plump. 

The best place for the plants in wdnter is a 
light, sunny house that does not fall much 
below 50 degs. at night, and is not kept too 
moist. From here they may be taken early 
in the new year to a warmer house, and kept 
nearly dry at the roots for a week or two, 
when the flower-buds will appear at the nodes. 
Let them come on slowly, as flow-ers rushed 
on in a lot of heat and moisture are never 
good in colour, and it is not unusual, under 
the circumstances, for many of the nodes to 
form growth-buds instead of flowers. If 
enough plants are at command, they may be 
brought on successionally, thus prolonging 
the display of flow-er.] 

FERNS. 

POTTING AND WATERING FERNS. 

As a rule. I only pot my Ferns once in two 
years. When established they do not like 
being disturbed ; sometimes they may even 
do without repotting for three or four sea¬ 
sons, but about this time every one of them 
should be turned out of the pots, and, if 
everything be right, the drainage and every 
inch of the outer part of the ball will be one 
mass of fibres. If worms have been running 
amongst the roots, and the drainage is choked 
up with small particles of soil, with no roots 
in it, then success need not he expected if 
they are allowed to remain in that condition. 
The drainage, at least, must be removed, and 
clean material and a clean pot substituted ; 
but in most cases of the kind it is best to re¬ 
pot altogether, and in doing this all bad soil 
and decayed roots should be removed. This 
will allow the plunt to be replaced in a pot 
about the same size as that from which it 
came, and I would not use any much larger, 
as the roots do not require much space, 
especially when reduced. If plants in largo, 
pots are required, it is those well furnished 
with roots that should be transferred. 

A mixture of rough loam, rough peat, and 
plenty of sund suits all kinds of Ferns well. 
In potting the finest of the mixture should 
never be put at the bottom. It must be on 
the top if anywhere, but very fine material 
should not be used. What soil requires to bo 
put at the bottom should be placed carefully 
over the crocks and be firmly rammed down 
before the plant is put in, and, when space is 
limited between the old ball and the sides of 
the pot, it may be a difficult matter to get 
rough pieces filled in, but they should bo 
pressed firmly down with a piece of stick, and 
care should be taken that no little vacancies 
are left. After potting, one thorough water¬ 
ing at the root should be given, and the soil 
will not become dry again for some days. By 
one watering I, however, mean more than 
once filling the space left for this purpose. 
After the first quantity has soaked in, another 
should be given, and if it is thought that this 
may not be enough to wet all parts of the soil, 
more may be applied. Once the whole of the 
material has become thoroughly wet, the 
roots are sure to go on well, but if only the 
surface soil is wetted, grow-th will neither 
begin nor continue satisfactorily. 

Ferns whose fronds have become ragged and 
discoloured should be cut down to the crown. 
Plants which are not to be re polled should 
be treated in this way before they have begun 
to grow, and those which are repotted should 
be cub over when that operation is being 
performed. It is astonishing how much 
Ferns may be benefited by weak doses of 
liquid-manure given twice a week or so. fcioot- 
water and cow-manure water arc both good, 
and when these are used—espeeially in the 
case of plants which have nut been repotted 

the result is most satisfactory. C. 


“The English Flower Garden and Home 

Grounds.”— Stic Edition, 10th, revived, with descrip¬ 
tion# of all the beet plants, trees, and shrubs, their 
culture and arrangement, illustrated on wood. Cloth, 
medium, 8 do., 15 s. ; post free, 15 s. 6cL 

“The English Flower Garden" may also be 

filin'k‘'ll i,r>nwrin fl(tl S *©■ «tfM. Of 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



MAr.cn 0, 190T 


a. 1R D E. \ ‘TXC IIL VET R. IT ED, 


23 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 

ALPINE RHODODENDRONS. 
Rhododendrons form a notable feature of 
The alpine vegetation in the European Alps 
and in the elevated portions of the Himalayas. 

In the Himalayas occurs that, herein figured. 
Rhododendron i.epidotum. a very pretty 
and distinct species, and growing, as a rule, 
trom 1 foot to 1 i feet in height, it forms a de¬ 
sirable shrub for the reck garden. The leaves, 
about an inch in length, are of a pale glaucous 
green hue. while tlie flowers, borne two or 
three in a cluster, are of a distinct purple 
colour. The individual flowers art) flat and 
spreading, and are berne on very long stalks, 
a feature which gives to them an uncommon 
appearance. According to Sir Joseph Hooker 
it grows in great prolusion on the lofty in¬ 
terior ranges of the Nepaul and Sikkim Hima¬ 
layas, at trom 8,000 feet to 1G.000 feet abovi 
the sea level. 

Rhododendron anthopooon. —Thia tiny, I 
perfectly hardy, species from much the same 
region, forms a compact plant from 1 foot to 
2 feet in height. The leaves, each a little over 
an inch long, are when mature densely covered 
with rusty red scales. The flowers, borne in 
small, compact terminal clusters, are of a | 
pale, dull, yellowish colour. A notable 
feature of this Rhododendron is the powerful 
odour given off by the leaves when bruised or 
stirred in any way. This is said to cause a 
violent headache to persons walking over the 


leaves, from whence (lie specific name of liir 
sutum is derived. These two species grow 
together, and extend up the mountains as far 
as ligneous vegetation reaches. 

All the above are good rockwork shrubs 
where so situated that their roots are free 
from lime, and the soil moderately moist, 
while they are also well suited for planting 
as an edging to beds or groups of the larger 
Rhododendrons. X. 

THE PRUNING OF WALNUT TREES. 
The incident mentioned by Mr. W. Roberts 
(page 697) recalls a similar one here. A Wal¬ 
nut-tree growing on the lawn had sonic 
branches so low down as to interfere with the 
horse lawn-mower in summer, ami without 
hesitation these were cut off in winter, when 
rowth was dormant, and the tree leafless, 
n the spring following, like Mr. Roberts, I 
discovered sap pouring from these branch 
wounds in quantity sufficient to saturate the 
i ground beneath the tree. The tree has since 
been removed ns being unsuited to the posi¬ 
tion. but had the tree been of the same value 
as that usually set on specimen trees, then 
the concern for its well being would indeed 
have been much felt. Apparently the Walnut 
is very impatient of pruning when in a leaf¬ 
less state, suggesting the summer as a more 
suitable period in which to carry out any 
necessary branch pruning. Some other trees 
are liable to “ bleed” when cut in winter, 
the Vine in particular suffering in this way. 
In the case of the Vine, however, it only 



A flowering branch of the Scab' Rhododendron (R. lepidotum). 


ground covered by it. Concerning Rhododen- 1 
dron anthopogon, Sir Joseph Hooker, in his 
Himalayan Journals, writes: “Dwarf Rho¬ 
dodendrons with strongly scented leaves (R. 
anthopogon), and an abundance of a little 
Andromeda, exactly like Ling, gave a heathery- 
appearance to the hill sides.” 

Rhododendron glaucum. —Another dwarf, 
compact species, and a perfectly hardy one. 
This, which inhabits the elevated regions, 
possesses also an unpleasant odour. The 
leaves are larger than those of either of the 
preceding, being from 2 inches to 4 inches 
long, dark, dull green above, and underneath 
of such a glaucous white tint as to warrant its 
specific name. The flowers, home half-a- 
dozen or so in a loose cluster, are somewhat 
drooping, bell-shnped, and of a rosy purple 
colour. 

Of the Rhododendrons native of the Euro¬ 
pean Alps may he mentioned : — 

Rhododendron ferrugineum (Alpine 
Rose).—A delightful little shrub, noted by- 
most travellers who visit the alpine regions 
during its flowering period. It forms a neat, 
compact bush, from 1 foot to 2 feet in height, 
thickly clothed with small bright green leaves, 
and about June plentifully studded with clus¬ 
ters of flowers varying from bright rose to 
scarlet. There are some well marked varie¬ 
ties, among the most notable being album, 
white, and atrococcineum, of a particularly 
rich colour. 

Rhododendron hirsutum. — This ia 
readily distinguished from the typical form of 
R. ferrugineum by the^hairy natura of the 

Digitized by VjOOQiC 


happens when pruning ia deferred till too late 
in winter ; but once set in action, some time 
elapses before it can be stopped. Bleeding 
would seem to arrest leaf production, and 
weaken the Vine in proportion to the excess 
of this loss of liquid. The sap which pours 60 
freely from the Vine and Walnut is considered 
by many to be watery fluid only, which has 
not much virtue in it, but whether this be so 
or not, there must be a direct loss when this 
liquid, instead of spreading over the whole 
leaf area, simply rises to this branch-wound, 
and goes no farther. The Oak will show a 
similar tendency to bleed. I remember an 
instance where a Turkey Oak had been made 
a target for small rifle practice, and noticed 
how long the sap continued to flow. Quite 
dark lines marked the course of the watery- 
fluid as it ran down the trunk of the tree, 
and for some time it was feared the Oak would 
die. The bleeding, too, was not confined to 
one season only. 

The danger attending the pruning of such 
trees in winter may with some advantage be 
made known to readers of your columns, 
especially when it concerns trees of much 
value, as landscape objects, timber, or fruit 
ing trees. Walnuts should be pruned as little 
as possible, and. when necessary, done in late 
I spring or summer after the trees are well ad- 
[ vanced into leaf. W. S. 

Rood Ashton Gardens, Trowbridge. 

Trees for limestone soli (E.).— Laburnums, 
Pvrus, Weeping Beech, Snowdrop-tree, Bird Cherry, 
Hawthorns in great variety. Lilacs in variety, Spiraeas, 
and Crabs in great variety should all do well. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Pruning Magnolia.— I have a tree (leaf enclosed) 
which I take to be a Magnolia. It is planted against a 
wall, and has been so neglected that it grows anyhow, and 
hangs right across the path, many of the branches too big 
to get back to the wall. Can I cut it, and how should it 
he done, as I should like it to grow up the wall?— 
Craven Bourne. 

[The leaf which you send may he that of an 
unhealthy plant of Magnolia grandiflora. hut 
if you would kindly send us a small branch 
then we could better tell you the correct 
name. If it is os we think, then the prun¬ 
ing must he carefully’ done, only cutting away 
any branches which you cannot easily fasten 
to the wall. The strongest branches must he 
securely fastened to the wall by means of 
strips of leather and strong nails, the side 
shoots being secured to these. This Mag¬ 
nolia ought never to be closely trained, or so 
much so as to present a veiy neat appear¬ 
ance.] 


VEGETABLES. 

TOMATO CULTURE IN PITS. 

Owing to alterations and the rebuilding of 
some of the glass-houses last autumn, in one 
of which I had hitherto grown my principal 
crop of Tomatoes, I haci perforce to make 
other arrangements for their production last 
season, and the manner in which this was 
accomplished in regard to a third of the 
crop may prove instructive to many readers 
of this journal. Although there is nothing 
new or very novel to record about it, there 
is just the possibility that it may serve as 
an object-L’Sson, or, at any rate, act as a sug¬ 
gestion, to those whose glass structures are 
of a limited order. A lean-to house, erected 
the previous autumn, served to accommodate 
about two-thirds of the number of plants 
grown, and although the aspect of the house 
is nearly due north, they yielded an excellent 
crop of fruit, and continued in bearing until 
the structure was required for other purposes. 
The remaining third I had planted in a brick 
pit, which then happened to be at liberty, 
and, as this faced the south, the plants expe¬ 
rienced an abundance of sunlight the whole 
day long. A little preparation was of neces¬ 
sity required to render the interior of the pit 
suited to the Tomato. First of all, the bed 
of fermenting material, which occupied the 
interior space to within some 18 inches of the 
glass, was cleared out, and this left the 
floor distant from the glass, front and back 
2 feet and 3 feet 6 inches respectively. After 
cleansing the pit, a border 15 inches wide and 
deep was made up next the front wall, the 
soil being held in position on the side far¬ 
thest from the wall with turves. In this the 
plants, which, it may be mentioned, were 
raised from seed sown early' in February, 
were set out 1 foot apart, and then w-atered 
home. There being no trellis, one had to bo 
improvised for the occasion, and for this 
purpose stout Ash rods were cut to the exact 
length to fit between the back and front walls, 
and were tied to nails driven into the brick¬ 
work. Though rough in appearance, these 
answered the purpose remarkably well, and 
the rods being distant some 15 inches from 
the glass, there was an abundance of air con 
tinually' passing over the plants, which en 
sured a free setting of fruit, and at the same 
time the points of the plants were not con- 
siantly coining into contact with the roof when 
the space between the trellising and glass is 
less than 1 foot. These plants bore a very 
heavy crop of fine fruit, and continued in 
hearing until the end of October, when they 
had to make way for other things. 

t hose who are unable to find room else¬ 
where for Tomatoes will find they can pro¬ 
duce a great weight of fruit by growing them 
in this way in a pit. I can call to mind an 
instance in which a friend of mine used to 
grow the greater part of his Tomatoes in a 
pit in which he stored his bedding plants 
during the winter, and the quantity of fruit 
ne obtained was astonishing. 1 have before 
now grown Tomatoes in pits, and placed 
straw* and faggots for them to ramble over, 
the plants in this case being grown on the 
extension principle; but the use of straw’ is 
objectionable, as it harbours slugs, which 
are very fond of Tomatoes. Faggots, when 
opened and spread as .evenly as may be over 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Marci! 9, 1907 


24 


the bed, answer fairly well, and keep the 
plants and fruit up near to the light; but 
better results may be had by adopting the 
above method or a modification of it, con¬ 
fining the plants to single stems. I havo 
tried the experiment of planting at the back 
of the pit, and training the plants towards 
the front, but find it answers best to plant 
as close to the front wall as may be done, and 
to train the stems, whether on the extension 
or cordon principle, towards the back. 

A. W. 


ASPARAGUS FAILING. 

I kohmf.o an Asparagus-bed last Man-h in a light sandy 
Boil. 1 trenched the ground and planted two-year-old 
crowns in May. The ground had got very dirty with 
weed*, so I ordered salt to be put on it, whien, 1 tear, may 
hive injured the crowns, an l hear salt is not generally 
used on two-year-old plants. It looked very sickly and 
weak all the'summer, and in November I ordered it to be 
cleaned and trenched a little deeper, with ihe result that 
lar too much soil was put on the beds, and now I find the 
crowns are much too fur under this soil, and, moreover, no 
manure has been put on it. What would you advise me 
to do?— M. B. 

[Vou appear to have made a sad muddle of 
your Asparagus-bed. A little salt is useful 
on porous ground, especially for Asparagus, 
as it makes the soil retentive.of moisture, and 
one pound per square yard will not injure 
anything ; but you appear to have exceeded 
this quantity. You cannot use salt enough 
on a young Asparagus-bed to kill weeds with¬ 
out running the risk of killing the roots of 
the Asparagus. The beds will stand more 
as the roots go deeper into the ground, and 
the salt loses its power before it reaches 
them, but at all times it is a mistake to scat¬ 
ter large quantities of salt upon anything 
which has life. Your best course is to 
leave the bed as it is till the end of next 
month or beginning of April, as by that time 
all the roots which have life will be showing 
signs of movement, and you will be able to 
separate the living from the dead. The 
plants should then be lifted carefully, laid on 
one side, and covered with a mat to keep 
the air from them. Remake the bed, and 
plant in shallow trenches, wide enough to 
lay the roots out straight, and cover the 
crowns about 2 inches deep. Do not place 
any manure over the roots, but if you have 
any good compost, such as a mixture of 
loam, leaf mould, wood ashes, or charred 
garden rubbish, mix this all together, and 
place this over and around the roots and 
crowns. Any manure you may have left 
from the preparation of the ground may be 
used as a mulch on the surface after the 
roots are planted. We are assuming your bed 
has been made on the old-fashioned principle 
of crowding the roots together into a narrow 
grave-like space. It would be better to plant 
on well-prepared ground in rows 3 feet apart, 
and from 15 inches to 18 inches apart in the 
rows, and so individualise each plant, and 
then feed with rich surface-dressings, in 
which salt in moderation may do its part, 
giving any spare liquid manure which may be 
available during growth in summer.] 


GROWING MUSHROOMS OUTDOORS. 

I wish to prow some Mushrooms this year out-of-doors. I 
have obtained home spawn, and shall be plad to know 
when and how to plant it? I see in some accounts that a 
specially prepared bed is necessary, while others have just 
as pood, if not better, results by prowing them anywhere. 
Which no you advise?—E. s. P. <j. 

[We fear there will be a poor prospect of 
getting Mushrooms if spawn be inserted in 
ordinary garden soil now, or, at least, until 
June. Then, if the weather be hot and dry. 
the spawn would not run, and if the ground 
were poor, if it did it would he worthless. 
Were the season wet and cold, the spawn 
would perish. The cost of burying pieces of 
spawn between Cabbages or Cauliflowers is 
trifling, and, if the season bo favourable, and 
the ground heavily manured, some good 
Mushrooms may be had. But now and for a 
few months it is best to make up a bed of 
stable manure, if obtainable. First, get a big 
cartload, well shake it up, and mix it, also 
giving it a good watering. Let it become 
warm, then turn it. and once more after that, 
and it should be then in good condition to 
make up. Throw out on a sheltered border, 
the soil 12 inches deep and 4 feet wide. Fill 
up with the manure, tread it firm, cover it up 
with straw, and let it heat ; then, just as the 
warmth declines, bfeUk up the sjiawn and 

CjO QIC 


press the pieces in all over the surface, about 
7 inches apart. Give a gentle moistening 
with tepid water, and then coat the bed over 
three-quarters of an inch thick with pure pas¬ 
ture loam, gently patting it down. Then 
cover up heavily with straw litter, and, 
should rain or snow come, lay over that some 
mats or other covering. The bed should 
slope a little to the south. Being made in a 
hollow, the bed is less exposed to cold than 
is the case if built up on the level ground. 

Market growers who make many beds all 
through the winter and spring build them 
ridge-shaped, some 3 feet in height, and as 
broad at the base, but they have great quanti¬ 
ties of manure and straw litter. A bed made 
as described should produce Mushrooms in 
about two months, and crop for as long a 
period, if the spawn be really good. Beds 
under cover, especially in a cellar, have an 
advantage in shelter over those outdoors. 
You should get “Mushrooms, and How to 
Grow Them , ,y reviewed in our issue of August 
25th, 1006, page 361.] 


GROUND FOR ONIONS. 

These notes are late, yet may prove useful 
to some, who are a bit behind with the pre¬ 
paration of the ground for t7iis season’s crops. 
Perhaps it is as well to get the seed sown as 
early in March as the state of the weather 
and ground alike will allow yet very excellent 
crops of Onions have been harvested from 
seed sown in mid-April. Although rich 
ground is necessary, it does not follow that it 
must be manured specially for this crop, as 
1 have grown excellent bulbs on a plot that 
has borne a previous crop of Celery. In 
moulding up the Celery, deep cultivation is 
imperative, and if, after the ground is 
levelled, a very moderate layer of soot be 
spread over the surface and forked in, there 
will be little to complain of at the time of 
lifting the bulbs, provided a good seed-bed be 
prepared, the seed got in while the soil is 
fairly dry, and the same made moderately 
firm after sowing, the ground frequently hoed 
during spring and summer, and a dusting of 
soot applied two or three times during 
grow th, this to be done early in the morning, 
while wet with dew. If an exhausted piece 
of ground has to be the Onion-plot, then by 
all means give it a heavy dressing, by placing 
a layer at the bottom of the second spit, and 
another between the two spits, as it is best to 
trench or bastard-trench for this crop. Many 
think it is impossible to get the ground too 
firm for Onions. This is an erroneous idea, 
as on heavy clay ground the surface becomes 
muc^j too hard, causing it to crack under a 
spell of drought, and when the rain comes the 
greater part is lost to the crop on account of 
its baked surface and the many channels for 
the water to escape. On light sandy soil 
the reverse is the case, and the bed should be 
w’ell trodden previous to getting out the 
1 inch deep drills 12 inches asunder, and fill¬ 
ing in with the feet after the seed has been 
sown thinly and evenly, finishing off with 
wooden rakes. Devonian. 

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES. 

Aa there will, apparently, be a scarcity of 
green vegetables for some little time to come, 
those who h^ve grown a good quantity of the 
Jerusalem Artichoke will be congratulating 
themselves on having something to fall back 
upon to help tide over the difficulty. It is 
true, Artichokes are not universally popular, 
yet they are much esteemed by many, and 
there is generally a demand for them to a 
greater or less extent. In a season like the 
present, when the Brassica-s have been hard 
hit by frost. Artichokes will, therefore, be 
very acceptable, and as they can be cooked 
and sent to table in so many different ways, 
they greatly assist in effecting frequent 
changes in the menu. Fortunately, Inst sea 
son’s crop was a bountiful one, so that 
wherever a good plot of ground was given 
up to tlieir culture there will, no doubt, in 
such cases be a sufficiency of tubers to last 
for as long as they will remain fit for use, or 
until no longer required. 

The introduction of the white-skinned 
variety led to a marked improvement both in 
the quality and appearance of Artichokes, and 


the purple-skinned kind is now almost en¬ 
tirely superseded. Not only are the tubers 
of the w'hite variety much more regularly 
formed, but the eyes are not so deep, conse¬ 
quently there is less waste when preparing 
them for cooking. I have just lifted the re¬ 
mainder of the crop grown last season, and 
the larger proportion of the tubers is even 
in form, and not too large. Much may be 
done, in my opinion, towards securing uni¬ 
formity in the production of well-shaped 
tubers hv paying strict attention to the selec¬ 
tion of the sets lor planting. I am very par¬ 
ticular on this point, and have none planted 
which are not as |x?rfect in shape as it is pos¬ 
sible to obtain them. It is also important 
that the sets are not too small nor larger 
than medium in size, as such can always be 
depended on to yield a much more abundant 
crop than either larger or smaller-sized sets 
would. In my own ease, planting on these 
lines has just been completed for this season, 
the selected plot of ground being rather heavy 
in texture, well worked, and in good heart 
from manuring having been liberally done 
for previous crops. Digging and planting 
were carried out simultaneously, the rows 
being 2 feet asunder, and the sets 18 inches 
apart. Some growers do not trouble to plant 
afresh each year, but it pays to do so, as it. 
results in both the quantity and quality of 
the produce being greatly enhanced. 


.NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Chicory as salading. —A gardener who 
the other day sent sample heads of blanched 
Chicory to the Horticultural Hall cither had 
not the best form, Witloof, or else he had 
allowed the heads to remain too long uncut 
and too much exposed to light. When last 
year, at the same place, some heads of 
Witloof were sent up from the University 
College, Reading, those were about 7 inches 
in length, of good size, solid, and well 
blanched. Really, they were perfect examples 
of this capital winter salad. But the Chicories 
are, even when ever so well blanched, rather 
bitter, although that is a taste much liked by 
many salad eaters. Large heads from 
blanched Dandelion roots give similar astrin¬ 
gent taste. Probably the very best of all leaf 
winter salads is found in white curled !Endive, 
as that, when well blanched, is sweet* How¬ 
ever, anyone partial to such salads as Chicory 
may easily raise roots from seed, sowing it 
thinly in drills in June. The roots can be 
lifted and stored for blanching as needed 
when the leaves die. away.—A. D. 

Planting out versus sowing Parsley. —I 
consider planting out Parsley is by far the 
best. Some people think Parsley and 
Mignonette will not bear transplanting, but 
this is not so. I grow my main crops of 
both in this way. home years ago, when 
visiting Mr. Bowerman, at Hackwood Park, 
and remarking on the fine Parsley, he told 
me he always planted it out. Since then I 
have adopted the same method. For the 
winter supply I always grow a portion on a 
warm border, and cover in severe weather 
with old lights or mats, and I also grow some 
at the foot of a warm Avail. In both instances 
I set out tlie plants about the middle of July 
from boxes, after early Potatoes came off. 
As the weather was very hot and dry. I put in 
tree-branches to shade the plants for some 
days, keeping them moist. At first they 
flagged, but soon revived, and now I have 
a splendid lot. I sow thinly in boxes about 
0 inches deep, and avoid crowding.—J. 
Crook. 

Early Brussels Sprouts.— This hardy win¬ 
ter vegetable may ho sown outdoors in March, 
and transplanted to the permanent quarters 
direct, without any aid from glass protection. 
Many gardeners sow a small pinch of seed 
under glass, with a view to securing an earlier 
gathering of this favourite vegetable. From 
the outdoor sowing it is not always possible 
to secure a crop by early autumn, owing to 
the weather. The amateur grower does not 
need a large quantity, so that a small seed- 
box may afford all that is necessary for an 
early batch. Of course, where early Sprouts 
are not wanted, the ordinary open air sowing 
in March will give all that is required- Some 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



Marcti 9, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


girdeners sow in boxes, afterwards pricking 
cut the seedlings into other boxes or pots. 
While some adopt the foregoing means, others 
<niploy separate frames and hot-beds, where- 
n to raise Brussels Sprouts and early and 
midsummer Cauliflowers. It is in summer, 
when plantations of these vegetables are 
making rapid strides, that the value of the 
«eed-box or the hot-bed is apparent. We 
have often heard comments leading to regrets 
on the inspection of flourishing plantations 
by those who have taken no steps to push 
their crops bovond the normal season. It is 
possible to gain much time by forwarding the 
plants under some form of glass shelter. 
This is found to be the case in the favoured 
*est; and it would be still more so in colder 
localities.—W. S. 

CARDEN WORK. 

Conservatory. —Some thought should soon | 
be given to the plants required for blooming 
next winter. Cuttings of Begonias, Salvias, 
Eupatoriums, Abutilons, Sparmannia afri- 
;ma, Bouvardias, Libonia floribunda, So- 
lanum capsi cast ruin, and any other soft- 
wooded plants desired, and of which fresh 
young cuttings may be obtained, will strike 
cow in a hot-bed, kept close and shaded for 
a time. Cuttings of the various climbing 
plants will also strike now under similar con¬ 
ditions. That beautiful conservatory plant, 
'Lucnlia gratissima, is not an easy plant to 
strike from cuttings. A good propagator, 
with proper appliances, in the shape of bell 
glasses, may succeed, but when only a limited 
number of plants is wanted it is best to layer 
a few of the bottom shoots in sandy peat and 
keep moist till roots form. Many of the old- 
fashioned greenhouse plants, such as Azaleas, 
Camellias, Oranges, and some others, are ob¬ 
tained by grafting under glass. They were 
usually grafted in a young state, and kept 
close till the union was complete. The pro¬ 
pagation by grafting of greenhouse plants is, 
to a large’ extent, now carried out on the 
continent, and in nurseries where, years ago, 
this kind of propagation was done the houses 
are now filled with Tomatoes, Cucumbers, 
and fruit such as Grapes, Peaches, and Figs. 
The nurseryman, especially in country dis¬ 
tricts, is largely a market gardener, and has 
to keep a close watch upon the changes tak¬ 
ing place around him. Take the present de¬ 
mand for cut flowers. Though the demand is 
large, and still growing, the number of 
species required is very small, and may be 
summed up at. the present time in Lilies, 
Roses, Narcissi, Carnations, Lilacs, and a 
few odds and ends of things, such as Arum 
Lilies for wreath work, and foreign produce, 
which comes over in large quantities and 
finds a ready sale at a low price. One of the 
prettiest groups in the conservatory now is 
formed of strong plants of the Bleeding Heart 
or Lyre-flower (Dielytra spcctabilis). It is 
also ’a graceful plant for filling a tall vase, 
is perfectly hardy, and is easily propagated 
by division. 

The forcing-house.— Things are moving 
rapidly, and require constant attention. All 
newly-potted stuff should have a little heat 
to start it, and all cuttings as soon as rooted 
and hardened a little may be potted off and 
helped on ill heat till the roots are working 
through the soil to the sides of the pots, and 
then moved to a cool-house. This work goes 
no from dav to day where there is a flower 
garden to fill till the cold-houses and frames 
are filled with the plants required. Many 
plants are required now for the conservatory 
and to provide flowers for cutting. Narcissi 
are easily forced now, as are also Lily of the 
Valiev and Hyacinths, including the Dutch 
Romans, which force easily and are not too 
large for cutting. Good plants of Lilacs, 
with well-ripened buds, soon respond to heat 
and moisture, and are valuable for cutting. 
Spirals are not so much in demand as they 
were, as they are very thirsty subjects, and 
to keep them in condition they ought to stand 
in saucers. All those things which are com¬ 
ing into bloom should have liquid-manure. 
Filling baskets for greenhouse and 

verandahs._We make our own wire baskets ; 

they are made with stou^ire and are-last- 

Digitized by VjOOglC 


ing. A handy man with the necessary tools 
will make baskets of different sizes suitable 
for home work. They are devoid of the usual 
ornamental projections. As the baskets will 
be covered ultimately with hanging growth 
the plainer they are made the better. These 
will be filled with such things as Ivy-leaved 
Pelargoniums, Asparagus Sprengeri, Achi- 
menes, Campanulas, Cereus repens, Trades- 
eantias, double Lobelias, Sedum carneum 
variegatum, Gerbera Jamesoni, Ncpeta 
Glechoma variegata, Saxifraga sarmentosa 
tricolor, Smilax asparagoides. Verbena Miss 
Willmott, and others. Give them a start in 
heat till established, and they will be beauti¬ 
ful in the summer outside or indoors. 

Late vinery. —The Vines are now break¬ 
ing, and the rods should be tied in position. 
As there are always more shoots thrown out 
than are required, begin in good time to re¬ 
move the weaklings, but the final thinning 
should be left till we can see where the best 
bunches are. We may fairly start with the 
assumption that if we want good Grapes that 
will colour and keep well till late in the sea¬ 
son, a little heat should be used now for late 
kinds. Hamburghs have ripened well with¬ 
out fire, but the thick-skinned varieties must 
be helped on now’, so as to ripen under the 
influence of the sunshine in September at the 
latest. Top-dressing of the borders is most 
important, as this keeps the roots near the 
surface. 

Early Peach-house. The disbudding will 
now be pretty w r ell finished, and the thinning 
of the fruits* will have received some atten¬ 
tion. It is difficult to say what constitutes a 
crop of Peaches, so much depending upon 
the vigour of the trees, but two fruits to the 
square foot, if the trees are well nourished, 
will be a reasonable crop. One fruit to the 
square foot used to be considered a crop, but 
now everybody markets their surplus, and it 
is necessary to make the trees do their best. 
The feeding of the trees is more studied 
now, and if this is carried out on reasonable 
lines more fruits may be taken than the 
orthodox number. The ventilation is very 
important now. As soon as the fruits are 
stoned, the thermometer at night may rise to 
60 degs., and when the nights are calm and 
mild a little ventilation may be left on all 
nigh t. 

Early Cucumbers. —If many fruits are 
wanted, a night temperature of 70 degs. may 
be given now, and the atmospheric moisture 
should be abundant, and should he obtained 
by flooding the paths. I do not care to use 
the syringe much, as the paths are easily 
flooded and its effect is more lasting. Cucum¬ 
bers can be grown without much ventilation, 
especially if the glass is slightly clouded over 
with whitewash mixed with a little size, or 
something to make it adhere. The main 
thing when Cucumbers are grown rapidly 
is to regulate their growth often and encour¬ 
age the surface roots by rich top-dressing, 
and to cut all fruits as soon as ready for use. 
The fruits will keep some time with the lower 
end in water in a cool place. 

Outdoor garden. -Now that the weather 
is more genial, an effort should be made to 
bring the work up to date. Continue to pro¬ 
pagate bedding plants from cuttings in heat. 
Sow tender annuals of all kinds. The An¬ 
tirrhinum is not a tender annual, but the im¬ 
proved varieties sown now in heat and 
pricked off, when large enough, in to boxes, 
make beautiful masses. The colours come 
true from seeds when carefully saved. What 
an advantage it is to have a heap of compost 
handy to place a shovelful or so round the 
roots of anything we are planting! Roses 
appreciate this attention. Usually there is a 
lot of Chrysanthemums to throw away at 
this season where many are grown in pots for 
cutting flowers from in winter. As these are 
grown in the best soil, when the plants are 
shaken out and the soil mixed with other 
accumulations from the potting-shed. and the 
charred refuse from the rubbish-heap, and a 
little old manure, this mixture is excellent for 
any purpose, and makes the growth of the 
plant certain. Shrubs and trees may be plan¬ 
ted where the soil works freely. Mulch and 
stake immediately anything which requires it. 
This is a good season for manuring lawns. 


Most of the manufacturers now prepare 
special lawn manures, which may be used 
with advantage, and we have good results 
from basic slag and nitrate of soda. 

Fruit garden. -Birds arc busy now, and 
will do much harm among the buds, if per¬ 
mitted. If the bushes are syringed with 
soapy water and then dusted with lime, or a 
mixture of lime and soot, whilst damp, the 
birds will not touch them. The buds of other 
fruit-trees will soon be moving, and the alkali 
wash should be discontinued for this season. 
Very great benefit is obtained by the use of 
grease hands. 1 am sending a sample of a 
grease-band and the captured insects still 
adhering to it, to show their value, but they 
should be placed round the stems of the trees 
not later than October. Take the heads off 
any fruit-trees intended to be redrafted, 
leaving 6 inches or so to be cut off when the 
season comes for grafting. There is a good 
deal of this kind of work when the time 
comes round, but let the sap be active first. 
Those who failed to plant their new Straw¬ 
berry beds in August through any cause may 
plant next month, putting a row of Onions 
which have been raised under glass between 
each two rows of Strawberries. The Onions 
will pay rent and labour, if cared for. Re¬ 
move all flowers from the plants for first sea¬ 
son. and select the best runners for potting 
for forcing and making new’ beds. 

Vegetable garden. —Fill up blanks, if any, 
in Cabbage and Lettuce beds. Lettuces in 
frames should be tied up when large enough 
to blanch, and draw a little earth up to the 
Cabbages. It is an advantage to have a few 
rows on the early border planted rather close 
together, and when the hearts are fit to cut 
pull the 6tems up, and prepare the land for 
dwarf French Beans or some other crop. 
There should be plenty of Mushrooms and 
Seakale and Rhubarb. Fresh roots should 
be introduced from time to time to keep up 
the supply. Plant thongs or root-cuttings of 
Seakale to produce forcing-crowns for next 
winter. The land should nave been deeply 
w’orked and manured for Seakale and As¬ 
paragus. If the land is of a porous nature a 
dressing of salt, 1 lb. to the square yard, will 
be beneficial. Prick out Brussels Sprouts 
when large enough. Sow Onions on good 
land in rows 12 inches apart, and Parsnips 
15 inches apart. Sow Parsley where it can 
be easily reached. Plant Horse-radish with a 
crowbar in rows 18 inches apart and 9 inches 
jyiart in the rows. Move Peas and Onions 
which have been raised under glass to cool 
frames.' Mustard and Cress will be sown 
under glass as required. E. Hobday. 

THE COMING WEEK’S WORK. 

Extracts from a Garden Diary. 

March 11th. Planted first batch of Gla¬ 
dioli. We shall plant others later, as we 
want some for cutting in succession. Sowed 
in boxes a few seeds of Gladioli saved last 
season ; the largest eorms will flower the 
second year. Sowed a few patches of hardy 
annuals’; the main sowings will be made a 
little later. Put in cuttings of double Petu¬ 
nias, Sweet-scented Geraniums, and Sweet 
Verbenas. 

March 12th .—Pruned Roses on south wall. 
We want early blooms on this wall, and the 
plants generally flower well when pruned thus 
early. Cut close with shears Ivy on walls 
and fences. Planted a good-sized bed of Sea¬ 
kale thongs. They were taken off the crowns 
lifted for forcing in November, and had been 
laid in dampish sand. The crowns were re¬ 
duced to one. and have been planted in rows 
15 inches apart. 

March 13th. —Apricot-blossoms are opening 
on south wall. Several trees have been 
covered with fishing-nets to shelter the blos¬ 
soms. Other trees will be covered shortly. 
Planted Peas and Beans which have been 
raised under glavss. They w^ye earthed up 
and staked at the same time, and a few ever¬ 
green branches placed on the windward side. 
Beans always transplant well out of boxes. 

March llfth .—All newlv-planted trees and 
shrubs were mulched and staked when 
planted, using the syringe and the water-pot 
when necessary. SeveraL^hrubs moved from 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



C. J /? D /•:. A 7A Tr / L L VSTII. 1 TV. D. 


Map.cii 0, H>0 


2C 


a sheltered place to an exposed one, have 
had a temporary protection erected with 
stakes and branches on the windward 6ide. 
Put in a few more cuttings of choice Chrys¬ 
anthemums. The early cuttings are now 
well rooted and ready for 5-inch pots. 

March 15tli .—Planted more early Potatoes, 
Peas, and sowed Carrots and a few seeds of 
Turnip-rooted Beet for early use. Main crop 
of Beet and Carrots will be sown next month. 
Repotted our stock of Cypripediums in rough 
peat, with a little leaf-mould, crushed char¬ 
coal, aud chopped Sphagnum. Planted more 
Cauliflowers out of frames, and made a first 
sowing of winter Greens. 

March 10th .—Planted out more Tomatoes 
under glass. Most of our span roofed houses 
have a row of Tomatoes along each side. 
Sowed seeds of Celosias, Balsams. Stocks, 
Asters, Zinnias, Salpiglossis, Marigolds, etc. 
Planted a shady border with the blue Prim¬ 
rose seedlings of last year, which will soon 
flower. Sowed Antirrhinums. 

LAW AND CUSTOM. 


Overhanging branches of tree —A neighbour 
has a large Elm-tree, with some very heavy branches 
overhanging my garden—the portion set aside as 
playground for my children. From time to time 
large pieces break away from this tree and fall. 1 
have politely asked my neighbour to have the danger¬ 
ous parts cut off. He declines, saying that it is n 
matter for the owner of the property to carry out. 
He now sends a written request that 1 cut off, within 
seven days, the branches of a Cherry-tree (mine), 
which overhang his garden. These are a few mere 
thin shoots above 10 feet from ground. To this I 
agree, provided he cuts back the Elm. On whom 
must I bring pressure—the yearly tenant or the free¬ 
holder?—F uchsia. 

[The law upon this matter is quite clear 
and simple. If boughs of a tree overhang 
the ground of a person other than the owner 
of the tree, that person may lop them off to 
the extent of a line rising perpendicularly 
from the edge of his own ground. Therefore, 
you may lop off such parts of the Elm-tree 
as actually overhang your garden, and your 
neighbour can lop off such parts of your 
Cherry-tree as overhang his garden. If I 
were you, I should at once employ a man to 
do what you are legally entitled to do in 
regard to the Elm, but I should trouble my¬ 
self nothing about the Cherry-tree. If you 
go beyond your boundary in cutting, or 
if he goes beyond his, you will be liable for 
damage one to the other, as the case may be.] 

CORRESPONDENCE. 

Questions.— Queries and answer* are. inserted in 
Gardening free of charge if correspondents falloto these 
rules: All communications should be clearly and concisely 
written on one side of the paper only, and addressed to 
the Editor of Gardening, 17, Fumxval-street, Holborn, 
London , E.C. Letters on business should be sent to the 
Publisher. The name and address of the sender are 
required in addition to any designation he may desire to 
be used in the. paper. When more than one query is sent, 
each should be on a separate piece of paper, and not more 
than three queries should be sent at a time. Correspon¬ 
dents should bear in mind that, as Gardening has to be 
sent to press some time in advance of date, queries cannot 
always be replied to in the issue immediately following 
the receipt of their communication. We do not reply to 
queries by post. 

Naming 1 fruit. —Readers who desire our help in 
naming fruit should bear in mind that several specimens 
in different stages of colour and size of the same kind 
greatly assist in its determination. We have received from 
.several correspondents single specimens of fruits for 
naming, these in many cases being unripe and other¬ 
wise poor. The differences between varieties of fruits are 
in many cases so trifling that it is necessary that three 
specimens of each kind should be sent. We can undertake 
to name-only four varieties at a time, and these only when 
the above directions are observed. 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

Planting Camellias outdoors (T. S. 0.).—The 
heat time to plant, would be in June, when the plants 
are beginning to make growth. Take great care, 
however, that the plants are well hardened off before 
placing them permanently in the open air. Suitable 
plants can be obtained from any good nursery where 
hard-wooded plants are grown. When planting 
Camellias in the open we prefer a northern exposure, 
as then there is less likelihood of the flowers being 
injured should severe weather overtake them. 

Cllvia in bad health (Yorkshire). — From the ap¬ 
pearance of the leaves sent we should imagine you 
are keeping the plant too wet at the roots. During 
the winter it should be somewhat drier than at other 
seasons. When growing freely it requires abundance 
of water, with an occasional dose of liquid-manure; 
but you must see to it that the drainage is perfect. 
When growing freely it may be potted every year; 
hut in the case of large plants once in two years is 
sufficient. It may the soil li which your 

Digitized by CiCK .gle 


plant is growing is exhausted, in which case the best- 
plan would be '«> divide n and repot m the early 
spring, using a mixture of turf) yellow loam, to which 
should be added a fourth part of fibrous peat and 
some sand if the loam is in any way heavy. The 
above causes may be wrong, as you send us no parti¬ 
culars of your treatment, and which are all im¬ 
portant in giving a reason for the failure. 

Repotting India Rubber plant (Chas. Smith). 
—Wait until the mouth of April. When repotting, 
use a mixture of loam and peat or leaf-mould with 
enough silver sand to be plainly visible when the 
whole is mixed together. See that t he pot is quite 
clean and thoroughly drained, while the soil must be 
pressed down moderately firm. An important point 
in the case of all indoor plants is to see that no 
water is allowed to stand in the saucers they may be 
placed in. See to it, too, that the leaves are fre¬ 
quently sponged and kept clean. 

Perennials from seed (Lickeen ).—You can sow 
the seeds at once in boxes or pots, and stand in a 
frame. Then, when the plants arc fit 1o handle, prick 
them out into the open garden in good soil, and place 
in their flowering quarters as soon as large enough. 
Some of them may flower this coming autumn; but 
nil, if well attended to, should bloom freely in the 
spring and summer of 190$. After you have raised a 
good stock from seed it is very easy to increase the 
various plants by division, and in the case of the 
Aubrietia by cuttings in the autumn. 

Perpetual flowering Roses for trailing (W.). 
—There are few Rambler Roses, strictly speaking, 
that blossom late in the year; but the Teas and 
Noisettes furnish us with some excellent- varieties 
that will bloom continuously until the frosts appear. 
There are none perhaps equal to Aim£e Vibert, but 
you will find Longworth Rambler, Alister Stella Gray, 
Mme. Alfred Garrifere, and Lady Waterlow four ex 
cel lent sorts for your purpose. A very good sort is 
Trier, and another Is Debutante, for both these will 
blossom late, although they are not so profuse as 
they are in summer. Zephirin Drouhin is also a de¬ 
lightful Rose, lovely in colour and very sweet. 

Plants for rockery (Alpine Plants ).—The kind of 
plant you require is double Arabia, Aubrietius in 
variety, Alpine Phloxes, mossy and crustaceous Saxi¬ 
frages, Achillea tomentosa, Primula rosea, P. denti- 
culata, Christmas Roses, Adonis, Sedums, dwarf 
Campanulas, and such like plants. Then, in autumn, 
you could insert Crocuses, Snowdrops, dwarf Daffo¬ 
dils, Chionodoxa, Muscari, and the like to give a 
touch of early spring to the whole. Such plants are 
very cheap, and the present is a good time for plant¬ 
ing. You will find the above-named plants both in¬ 
teresting and pleasing, and being of perennial char¬ 
acter will last for years when once planted. 

Burnt earth (C. ft.).—The burning of earth i« 
not difficult, but. at the same time, a good deal of 
attention is required to ensure a good start. Light, 
dry materials, as sticks and shavings, must form the 
foundation, and when these are well alight Rose 
prunings, hedge clippings, and other slower burning 
refuse may be added. Old tree-stumps and bits of 
half-rotten wood, when once well alight, go on 
smouldering for weeks. Not until the whole pile is 
seen to be thoroughly well alight should the soil be 
added. Then it must be evenly spread all over about 
2 inches thick. In this way almost any quantity of 
earth may be burnt, the only thing necessary being 
to add more soil wherever the fire breaks through. 
Coarse turf from the roadsides and ditches may he 
treated in this way, such material being otherwise of 
very little use. 

Climbing Roses for handles of baskets 

(Clara ).—The most suitable varieties to recommend 
for this purpose would be somewhat governed by the 
size of the handle; but we have had great success 
with the Noisettes, Teas, and Hybrid Teas for this 
purpose. Perhaps pne of the best is William Allen 
Richardson, when obtained, as it should always be. 
on the Brier, unless own-root, plants are procurable. 
We saw such a plant, or plants (for there were two- 
one at each end of the handle), last year, and they 
were a mass of lovely orange buds. Mme. Hector 
Leuilliot would be another. It has a more beautiful 
flower than W. A. Richardson. Then there are such 
sorts as Mme. Jules Graverenux, Francois Crousse, 
Lady Waterlow, Monsieur Desir, and Gruss an Tep- 
litz. Lady Gay would make a splendid handle with 
its long trails of glowing pink blossoms; but there 
would he no autumn bloom, although it is nearly 
autumn before the variety unfolds its blossoms; but 
what I mean is there would be no second crop of 
flowers such as one may obtain from the other sorts 
named. Alberic Barbier and Rene Andre are two de¬ 
lightful Roses for this purpose, and perhaps their 
foliage, which is always glistening, would be a strong 
inducement for planting these, as when the blossom 
has disappeared the handle is always brilliant with 
the glistening foliage. 

FRUIT. 

Apple-tree unhealthy (Skisdon).— The tree has 
been attacked by American-blight, and is badly cank¬ 
ered. As you say all the tree is like the piece you 
send, we should advise you to dig up and burn it at 
once to prevent the pest spreading to the other trees 
in the garden. In case the blight should attack 
any of the other trees, you ought next autumn, 
when the leaves have fallen, to dress them with 
caustic alkali solution that lias been so often recom¬ 
mended in these pages. 

Scale on Rod Currant bushes (Scotia ).—Your 
Currant-bushes have been attacked by brown-scale, 
and the plan you speak of destroying them is the 
best. Currant-bushes can be purchased so cheaply, 
and they so soon come into hearing, that there is no 
need to waste time in trying to clean them, more 
especially if all arc- in such a condition ns the piece 
you send. Had the bushes been young, then washing 
with the caustic alkali solution when the trees are 
at rest is as good a remedy as any. The red spots | 
on the oilier piece of wood you send are the result | 
of decay, and arc never found on healthy wood. j 


SHORT REPLIES. 

! F. E. 31. -The pruning should have been done inirop- 
: d lately after th-'fall of the leaf. Without seeing the tree’s 
it is verv difficult to advise how to prune, and your best 
1 plan will be to consult a practical man in your neighbour 

hood.- Cambria. —Write to Messrs. Barr and Son, Is?, 

King-street, Covent Garden, W.C. ; or Amos Perry, 
Enfield. London, N. We do not undertake to forward 

letters to our correspondents.- F. M. Hall .—To make 

Lavender profitable you must be able to supply it in 
large quantities, and you say nothing as to the extent of 

ground you have planted.- Hilberry.—We do not quite 

understand your query'. Do you wish to make a carpet 
bed, or only use some plants as a carpet to taller ones 
growing from among the carpet? You have made a mis- 
| take in putting the soil through aquarter of an inch sieve, 
as in all proltahility it will cake together and prevent the 

water getting through properly.- Regular Subscriber. — 

We do not reply to queries by post-. You ought to get a 
copy of •* The English Flower Garden," in which you will 
| find the whole question of hardy plants dealt with, illus¬ 
trations of borders also being given. The subject has nlen 
been dealt with frequently in our pages during the last 

year.- L.M. X .—Seethe articles which have appeared 

on pergolas in our issues of Dec. 8. 1930, p. 663 : Dec. 20. 
p. 606; and January 12 of this year, p. 036. Copies of 
which cati he had from the publisher, post free, for 4d.— 

L. K. II - No, the Anipelopsis will not injure the wall. 

| - E. X. P .—As to Rose-growing, get any of \V. Paul's 

; works, which can be had through any bookseller, who can 
1 also supply Any books you may wish. As regards nursery 
| work, your best plan will be to enter a good nursery and 

so obtain practical experience. Books will help you very 

little.- E. F .—Your best plan will be to consult our 

advertisement pages. We cannot for obvious reasons 

recommend any special grower.- F. C. Wood. —Yon can 

cut out the dead and withered wood at any time now, 
removing at the same time any old and exhausted shoote. 

- M. E. S .—See reply to ** Newcastle " in our issue of 

March 2 (p. 6) re " Moss in lawn.”- Lover of Ferns. — Get 

the climbers planted at once, either growing them in 
large tubs, or, what is better, planting them out. It is 
entirely one's own fault if plants are dirty. Unless plants 
are kept clean you cannot expect them to thrive.- 

M. S. A—Consult a veterinary surgeon. -Mrs. Ness.— 
See article with illustration of ”Hyacinths in pots” in 

our itsue of March 2, p. 3.-//. If.—No. The first thing 

to be done is to have the lawn properly drained. If you 
see to this, then you will hav e little further trouble. 
Sand will do no good, as the mischief lies in the subsoil. 

- G. Gardiner.— You tell us nothing whatever of your 

treatment, which would help us considerably. The plants 
are evidently being overwatered, or you are keeping them 
too close. The plants want plenty of air when the 
weather is suitable. 


NAMES OP PLANTS AND FRUITS. 

Names Of fruits.— Netrtake.—\\e have never heard 
| of the Apple you speak of. When it fruits please send a 
specimen, and we will do our best to get it properly 
named for you. The correct name is probably Hum bled on 

deux Ans.- Mrs. Booth.— Apples : 1, Probably Northern 

Greening : 3, Specimens insufficient ; Pear : 2, Must have 
fresh specimens._ _ 

Catalogues received.— R. H. Bath, Ltd., Wisbech. 
—List of Carnatious, Begonias, etc., and Select Seeds for 

Spiing, 1907. -Soupert and Notting. Luxemburg.— List 

! of Hoses for 1900-07. -Amos Perry. Hardy Plant Farm, 

Enfield.— Catalogue of Border and Rock Plants. -Peter 

Lambert, Trier.— Co talogue of Hoses. -J. Lambert and 

Son, Trier.— Vegetable and Ftower Seed List for 1907. - 

T. S. Ware (’02), Limited, Feltham.— List of Hardy Peren¬ 
nials. 

Book received.—" The National Dahlia Society, 
Annual Report, List of Members, Price List, etc. Supple¬ 
ment to the Official Catalogue and Culture Guide for 19U7.' 

United Horticultural Benefit and Provi¬ 
dent Society.— We are asked to state that 
the annual general meeting of the above 
society will be held at the Royal Horticul¬ 
tural Hall, Vincent-square, Westminster, on 
Monday, March 11th next, at 8 p.m. Three 
trustees will be appointed under the new 
rules; also a treasurer. Mr. Charles H. 
Curtis, chairman of the committee, will pre- 
I side on this occasion. 

Poisons Bill. —This has been re-introduced 
into the House of Commons, and was read 
i a first time on Friday, February 22nd. 

| Clause 2 of this Bill is to make it 
legal for the horticultural and agricultural 
trades to retail poisonous preparations re- 
j quired in these industries. The new regula- 
| tions proposed in Clause 2 practically contain 
the amendment of the law for which the 
Traders in Poisons Society have been agita¬ 
ting for the past four year’s. It is fully anti¬ 
cipated that the Government will push this 
Bill to a second reading at a very early date, 
and that Clause 2 will pass as it now stands. 
The New Poisons Bill has already passed the 
House of Lords, and when the Special Com¬ 
mission sat to inquire into the present law 
regulating the 6ale of poisons, a majority re¬ 
port was given by His Majesty’s Privy Coun¬ 
cil in favour of the present Bill. It is well 
known that it is strongly advocated as a 
necessity by the Board of Agriculture, so 
that there is very liftie doubt about it passing. 

O. H. Richards. 

NIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 





GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 

No. 1,462.-VoL. XXIX. Founded by IT. Robinson, Author of "The English Flower Garden.” MARCH 16, 1907. 


INDEX. 


Acn*cliuiuu»B 

33 

Chrysanthemums.. 

36 

Gold-fish, nun i&gouioiil of 

40 

Outdoor plants .. 

31 

Plants in country win- 


Htove. 

38 

Apple Beuuty of Kent.. 

37 

Conservatory 

38 

Grass, ltosa rugosa on .. 

30 

Pansies,Tufted, a simple 


dows . 

35 

Sweet Pea in America, 


Apple-tree, pruning 

40 

Dandelions in lawn 

40 

Greenhouse, healing 


method of increasing 

33 

Plants, tender, in the 



32 

Aubnelias, propagating 

33 

Dendrobium Burfordenao 

3b 

small . 

4U 

Poach house, a cold 

37 

south-west.- I. 

29 



Auriculas, raising, from 


Fruit. 

36 

Heliotropes from seed .. 

40 

Peach-house, early 

31 

Rhubarb - roots after 


foliolosa). the .. 

29 


34 

Fmit garden 

:w 

Hollies, planting.. 

29 

Pears, cordon 

315 

forcing. 

40 

Tibouehina - syus. La- 


Bees. 

40 

Fruit prospects .. 

37 

Indoor plants 

34 

Pens and green-fly 

28 

Room and window 

3b 

siandru and Ploromu .. 

34 

Birds . 

40 

Fruit-trees for fence und 


Juniper, Golden, tho 

29 

Peas, good-flavoured 

28 

Rose-plants, grafting old, 


Trees and shrubs ., 

29 

Books 

:«♦ 

Willi . 

37 

Law and custom .. 

39 

Pigeon-manure ■ 

4U 

under glass 

30 

V'egetable collections, 


Carnation pots, grain; in 

30 

Garden diary, extracts 


lovwn, tennis, dressing a 

40 

Pines. 

33 

Roses . 

30 

judging by points 

27 

Cauliflowers, forcing 

27 

from a. 

38 

Mushrooms all tho year 

28 

Poultry . 

39 

Roses, newly - planted. 


Vegetable garden 

38 

Ccanolhu* and Sola- 


Garden, moorland, plant- 


Narcissus Loveliness 

33 

Plant for bower .. 

40 

pruning. 

30 

Vegetables. 

27 

mini under glass 

34 

ing a . 

32 

Onion-lied, preparation 


Plants and flower.-. 

31) 

Roses, own-root, for i»ot 


Verbenas for various 


Cherries, winter 

33 

Garden pests and friends 

:«) 

of tho . 

27 

Plants, climbing, for so- 


culture. 

30 

positions. 

35 

Chrysanthemum culture, 


Garden work 

38 

Orchids . 

3i 

curing shade 

35 

Roses, rambling, pruning 

30 

Vineries, work in the 

38 

seasonable notes on .. 

36 

Gentian, Willow, tho .. 

31 

Outdoor garden .. 

33 

Plants in the house 

38 

Sagittaria (Arrowhead) 

31 

Week s work, the coming 

38 


VEGETABLES. 

JUDGING VEGETABLE COLLECTIONS 
BY POINTS. 

The Royal Horticultural Society’** “ rules of 
judging” contain in relation to all kind** of 
vegetables certain maximum points, their 
special aim being first to determine by the re¬ 
spective points allotted to each one its 
assumed value as an edible product, also its 
relative value on the exhibition table, and in 
these respects to instruct, judges as to the re¬ 
lative values they should pul on each kind 
when pointing collections at exhibition. Not 
in all cases, however, is this scale observed, 
especially when collections are severely 
limited in the number of dishes shown, as in 
such cases invariably the very best ones in 
season arc then staged, and all seem to have 
either for table or for show equal merit. In 
the R.H.S. scale of points Asparagus, dwarf 
and Runner Beans, Brussels Sprouts (plants), 
Cauliflowers, Celery, Mushrooms, Onions, 
Peas, Potatoes. Seukale, and Tomatoes, are 
each allotted p. maximum of seven points. 
Long-pod Beans, Cucumbers, and Leeks have 
each a maximum of six points. Globe 
Artichokes, Beet, picked Brussels Sprouts, 
Cabbages, Carrots, Endive, Kale, Lettuces, 
Parsnips, Turnips, and Marrows each have 
five points allotted to them. A few 
other things, seldom exhibited in col¬ 
lections, come still lower. There is not much 
to find fault with in this classification, with 
the exception of putting Carrots so low down, 
a/* a good dish of these roots i.s as hard to 
obtain as is any vegetable in the lists through¬ 
out. Clearly Carrots should go into the first 
list of seven points maximum, and Beet and 
Parsnips into the six point list. All the re¬ 
mainder in the five point list are not high 
class or difficult to grow. Leeks also, in the 
six point list should, with Carrots, go into 
the seven point list, as these, again, need 
great skill to grow them well, and good ones 
make a strong feature in a collection. But so 
fully are competing exhibitors, as a rule, 
awake to the points of respective products, 
that in the late summer and autumn, the 
lime of year when vegetable competitions 
are so plentiful, most of those kinds men¬ 
tioned in the seven point list with Cnrrots and 
Leeks almost always are staged in collec¬ 
tions, Asparagus and Seakale being, of 
course, omitted as out of season. 

The chief vegetable competitions in the 
kingdom, and probably in the whole world, 
are those at the great Shrewsbury exhibition 
in August of each year. But this year, owing 
to some important rearrangements in the col¬ 
lection clas^e^, of which there are ten diverse, 
and for all of which very valuable cash prices 
are offered, each collection is severely limited. 
The object of that arrangement, and it in¬ 
cludes eight traders’ collections also, is that 
a champion prize of 10 guineas is being 
offered hv the society for the best collection 
out of all these nine-disjj collections, which 

Digitized by glC 


will, of course, he added to the prize it takes 
in its particular class. For this champion 
prize pointing is enforced, and the committee 
have simplified the matter by creating a 
maximum of seven points for each dish, no 
matter what it may he. Of course, it does 
not by any means follow that judges would 
appraise Turnips or Marrows as they would 
Cauliflowers or Potatoes, but the equalising 
of the points renders the pointing more 
easy. But at that time of the year what are 
the kinds of vegetables likely to he found in 
the host collections? They will, probably, be 
Cauliflowers, Celery, Leeks, Tomatoes. 
Potatoes, Runner Beans. Peas, Carrots, and 
Onions, whilst for reserve may be Cucum¬ 
bers, Beet, Parsnips, Turnips, and Marrows. 
Mushrooms, although put into the higher list, 
are seldom exhibited, as they are far too un¬ 
reliable, and may prove failures at any 
moment. Of course, when collections must 
include from twelve to sixteen kinds, then 
not a few of the more inferior ones have to he 
staged. In the early summer a fine dish of 
long-pod Beans is by no means to be de¬ 
spised, and is not always easy to get good. 
These, then, really merit a much higher posi¬ 
tion than is usually allotted to them. Late 
in the year, and about the time of the Chrys¬ 
anthemum shows, collections then seldom ex¬ 
ceed six kinds, the primary ones being Cauli¬ 
flowers, Potatoes. Carrots, Tomatoes, Celery, 
and Leeks, Turnips. Beet, and Parsnips, or 
Brussels Sprouts being used as substitutes 
when others are lacking. Brussels Sprouts 
in the form of stems or plants are never a 
popular feature. When at one great exhibi¬ 
tion where these stems were shown in trebles 
I found cut sprouts packed in between honest 
ones to make a full stem I have since viewed 
these with suspicion. At the best such stems 
are far from being attractive objects. A good 
dish of Sprouts is a far more desirable item. 

It sometimes is made a condition in judging 
of collections of vegetables that in the case 
of absolute equality in points the award shall 
he determined by the excellence or otherwise 
of the staging. No such condition is found in 
the Shrewsbury schedule. With, as will prob¬ 
ably b£ the case at that, great show, ten first 
prize collections of nine dishes from ten 
classes will have to be pointed on the seven 
point, maximum basis, it is certain that there 
will be before the judges one of the hardest 
jobs they have ever faced. A. D. 


Forcing Cauliflowers.— It is doubtful 
whether the term forcing is really applicable 
to Cauliflowers, hut, all the same, it has a 
milder sense than is the common one, and, 
so used, Cauliflowers can be subjected to 
gentle warmth, and thus made not only to 
grow rapidly, but to head-in early, and in that, 
wav assist to supply high-class vegetables at 
a time when such food is usually scarce. 
Certainly the dwarf type originally named 
Snowball, hut which has since had other 
appellations attached, of which Early Forcing 


is one, does admit freely of glass culture and 
early production in warmth. Seed sown in 
January in shallow pans and stood in gentle 
warmth soon germinates, and if the plants 
arc grown on in a frame in a dung-bed the 
heads can l>o ready in May. Amateur gar¬ 
deners having m> heat must be content with 
small sowings in a cool-house or frame, and 
for these February and March art' soon 
enough. If the seedlings he pricked oil into 
shallow boxes filled with good soil, thinly, 
and hardened off, then planted out on to a 
warm border, they will head-in freely during 
June.—A. D. 


PREPARATION OF THE ONION BED. 
The Onion must have well-manured soil, and 
without this a heavy and full yield of sound, 
well-ripened bulbs cannot he expected. In 
reason the ground cannot be too liberally 
manured, or too deeply dug or trenched. 
Usually the autumn is chosen for trenching 
the place for the Onion bed, working in some 
manure into the bottom of the trenches for 
the roots to feed upon when the weather is 
dry. It is generally known that Onions root, 
deeply into the ground, and, remembering 
this, good cultivators prepare for them some¬ 
thing which will build up a vigorous growth. 
In trenching ground in early winter there are 
opportunities of disposing of much garden 
refuse which might otherwise become a nui¬ 
sance. Vegetablo matter of any kind when 
deeply buried is converted into humus, and 
becomes valuable food for succeeding crops. 
Trenching, again, allows of the employment 
of green or strawy manure fresh from the 
stable or cow-yard, which cannot, be so well 
dealt with by ordinary digging. Surface cul¬ 
tivation requires short decayed manure, 
which answers well for most crops. The 
same necessarily is valuable also in the 
deeper trenches, but is not at the same time 
so indispensable, because by slow decompo¬ 
sition the fresh manure serves as food for a 
longer period. Onion ground is invariably 
made firm by rolling or treading the surface, 
firmness conducing to sturdy growth and per¬ 
fect maturity. Clearly, then, trenching needs 
to be conducted at an early period of the 
winter, so that time is given for the bed to 
settle down before seed-sowing time comes 
round in spring. It is a good plan to fork 
over the surface during frost spells some 
time after trenching is completed. This pul¬ 
verises the soil, causing it to crumble down 
later when the drills are drawn and the 
garden roller run over it. Ground that is 
trenched cannot be left so rough and broken 
on the surface as is possible by simple dig¬ 
ging, because the under spit is less firm, and 
more crumbling, consequently the surface of 
trenched ground runs together by the action 
of winter rains. If advantage is taken to 
move the surface when frost bound, and leave 
it exposed to the action of the weather, there 
is a much more perfect tilth when sowing has 

*°i to r 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



















28 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


March 1G, 1907 


increase the fertility of the soil short decayed 
manure, soot, or other artificials, could be 
applied prior to this surface movement. 
Whether seeds are sown direct or the plants 
first raised in boxes and planted out, the 
same soil preparation is advisable. 

W. SfrRUGNELL. 


MUSHROOMS ALL THE YEAR. 

The locality. —The first thing in Mushroom 
culture is to choose a suitable place— e.g., 



Movable two-sided Mushroom-bed. 


any airy cellar or basement. By airy I mean 
one to which it is possible to let in air a‘t will, 
while maintaining the temperature at about 
60 degs. Fahr., and affording the necessary 
moisture. The place should be large enough 
to allow of changing the beds so as not to 
always grow the Mushrooms in one place. 
When the Mushroom season is ended the bed 
should be removed. This makes excellent 
manure for the vegetable garden. The walls 
should also be scraped and disinfected with 
quick-lime, and.the cellar or basement should 
be thoroughly aired. By taking these pre¬ 
cautions it will be possible to use the same 
place year after year. 

The season for cultivating Mush¬ 
rooms. —If it is desired to have a supply of 
Mushrooms all the year round there will be 
three seasons. The preparations for the first 
bed to commence in the spring will be made 
in February, eo that the beds can be formed 
in March. The second bed will be formed 
towards the end of July, and the third in 
October. The beds formed in July will be 
weaker than those of the other two seasons. 
The temperature at this time being higher, 
the fermentation of the manure will be more 
active, and give out more heat. It will be 
necessary to give more air at this season to 
carry off the vitiated air, and to water the 
ground, in order to supply the required mois¬ 
ture. 

Preparation of the manure.— This , 
ought to he good horse, ass, or mule dung, ' 
and should contain straw, as this makes the 
preparation easier. The fresher the manure 
the better. Manure intended for Mushroom 
culture should be heaped up pretty high to 
guard against rotting, and in preparing it the 
freshest manure from the stable should be well 
mixed in. A cubic yard of manure will be 
sufficient to form three or four yards of beds. 
(Ten yards of beds are sufficient for one 
season.) Level the dung in the form of a bed. 
It is best that the preparation should be done 
under cover to protect the manure from heavy 
rain, and in summer from getting too dry. The 
heap should be 27 inches to 30 inches deep. 
Treat it as for the preparation of any other 
hot-bed, giving plenty of water for the pur¬ 
pose of setting up fermentation. After eight 
or ten d»ys the fermentation will slacken. 
Then turn the heap over from top to bottom, 
commencing at the part last made, and taking 
care that the edges shall form the centre of 
the now heap. In case any parts arc too dry 
add water, so that there shall be equal fer¬ 
mentation in all parts, and also an equal de¬ 
gree of moisture. Fermentation will continue 
for eight days, during which the dung will lose 
its peculiar odour, and take on that of the 
Mushroom spawn. Then turn the heap over 
as before, reducing its 6ize, and giving it a 
depth of about 20 inches to 23 inches. In 
five or six days afterwards the dung will be 
sufficiently prepared to be formed into beds. 
It will be in such a condition that on squeez¬ 
ing it in the hand no water will exude from 
it. 

How TO FORM THp^EDS. Thus^repared, 


rHE jjeds. imis-prepai 

Gck gfe 


the manure is taken to the place where the 
beds are to be formed, and is arranged in 
heaps on the spot. The beds are the heaps 
of manure built into pyramid form, 12 inches 
to 15 inches at the base, and about 16 inches 
deep. The operator spreads the manure well 
with his hand so that there shall be no lumps, 
also making it firm. A Mushroom bed cannot 
be too firm. The bed ought to be a little 
wider than it is intended to be, and then re¬ 
move from the sides such of the manure as is 
loose, so that the sides of the bed shall be as 
firm as the middle. The manure being in a 
state of fermentation, will get warm again, 
especially from being so firm, but after a few 
days the heat will diminish. When the heat 
is not too great for the hand to be thrust into 
the bed and kept there it will be the right 
time to proceed with the spawning. The 
Mushroom spawn in the growing state, or 
even in a dried state, is used. It is some¬ 
times sold prepared for the purpose, but it 
can be gathered off the sides of dung heaps or , 
from fields in which cattle are feeding. In 
the first season it cun also be gathered from 
the beds themselves before gathering any 
Mushrooms, but it is best to use as mucli as 
possible only virgin— i.e., uncultivated— 
spawn as being generally the more vigorous. 
Having got his spawn, the Mushroom-grower 
will break it up into small squares, aud insert 
the pieces into the bed under the manure 
about 15 inches apart in two rows on each 
side of the bed. The first row should be a 
few inches higher than the base of the bed, 
and the second row about half way up. The : 
bed is left for 20 days to 25 days, and then 
examined to see if the spawn has vegetated, 
which is shown by the lengthening of the 
filaments. If this is not the case, then the 1 
spawn is bad, and there will be no crop to 
speak of. If, on the other hand, the spawn 
has laid well hold of the manure, the next 
thing to do is to cover the bed with not quite 
half-an-inch of fine virgin soil. Well sifted 
loam is the best for this, which in the case 
of small beds can be done by hand. The soil 
is flattened down with a shovel. The fila¬ 
ments of spawn penetrate the soil, and form 
the heads of the young Mushrooms. The 
Mushrooms generally emerge in small, close 
groups, until the surface of the bed is alto¬ 
gether covered with them. 

Gathering the crop.— This calls for 
some care. Some of the Mushrooms in a 
group are more advanced than the others. 
The time to gather is before the Mushrooms 
have commenced to open. If a group of 
Mushrooms shows signs of being used up— 
i.e., where the Mushrooms show inequality in 
size—it should be pulled up and new spawn 
sown. Given the right sort of manure, and 
also good spawn, a new group will be formed 
in about twenty days in the same place, or 
thereabouts. The crop will continue as long 
as the manure contains the element's neces¬ 
sary for the formation of Mushrooms—that is 
to say, sometimes for three months—while it 
may be that after the first crop the spawn 
dies. 

Failure in Mushroom culture is due to 
a number of causes: inferior quality or bad 
preparation of manure, defective 6pawn, or 
the fact that the surroundings do not suit it. 

Diseases of Mushrooms.— The Mushroom 
is often the prey of inferior cryptogams. In 
the case of artificial Mushroom culture it is 
necessary the spawn should be pure. The 
diseases which attack Mushrooms are.verdi¬ 
gris, mildew, etc. Before sowing the spawn 
in the beds it should be carefully examined 
for the detection and elimination of para¬ 
site cryptogams. In close, heavy weather 
the cellar should be well aired at intervals. 
If the air is allowed to get foul a sort of 
I leprosy attacks the Mushrooms, and is as 
fatal to them as the other parasites .—Revue 
Horticolc. 

NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Good-flavoured Peas.— Will you kindly give me 
the names of two main-crop l'eas, as near in type 
and flower as possible to Ne Plus Ultra, height not 
exceeding 3 feet? How wide apart should Peas be 
sown in the drills, and when shall 1 sow them?— 
H. P. M. S. 

[It is true that Pea Ne Plus Ultra has few 
equals for flavour. The nearest approach to 
it, and many growers think it equal in 


quality, is Autocrat, perhaps the most popu¬ 
lar and widely grown of all late Peas. The 
pods are short and blunt, but very green, as 
are the Peas. Under good culture its height 
is 4 feet. For earlier sowing, a good variety 
is Peerless Marrowfat. This belongs to the 
mid-season section of Peas, of which there 
are dozens of excellent 3-feet varieties. 
Peerless is of that height. Failing to obtain 
that, try Webbs’ Senator, Sutton’s Prize¬ 
winner, or Thomas Laxton, all of which are 
good. A very fine tall Pea to grow beside 
Autocrat, and 3 feet in height, is the Glad¬ 
stone. Sow Peerless or one of the others 
at once, and Autocrat for succession ten to 
twelve days later. Sow on well-trenched 
and manured ground, in rows 4 feet apart. 
Draw a broad, shallow drill 6 inches wide, 
and put in the Peas fully 3 inches apart. 
Some sow even wider than that.] 

Peas and greenfly.— I am again thinking of sow¬ 
ing Peas, and would like to tell you of my experience 
last year. After dwarf Peas 1 sowed Duke of York 
and Autocrat, which, when well up and staked, be¬ 
came infested with greenfly, which quite ruined ttie 
Peas. I should be very glad if you could advise me 
how to act this year should my Peas be again 
attacked.—B lotter. 

[Insects generally attack Peas in hot, dry 
weather, when the roots, because the soil is 
shallow, begin to suffer from drought. The 
best thing to do to secure success with 
Peas is to have the ground trenched 2 feet 
deep, burying a good dressing of manute to 
cause the roots to go deep for food and mois¬ 
ture. To sow Peas on soil that has been 
merely dug from 10 inches to 12 inches is to 
court failure. Then, sowings arc commonly 
far too thick. Some twelve Peas are sown 
where there should be but two or three, 
hence later the plants starve each other, and 
become a prey to insects. It is possible your 
large green-fly on your Peas was the product 
of the cuckoo spit, with which you, no doubt, 
are familiar. Whenever seen this should be 
at once washed off. If, however, the fly be 
ordinary, but large, aphides, the best thing 
to do is to purchase 2 oz. of Quassia chips, 
soak that for twenty-four hours in two gallons 
of boiling water, add \ lb. of soft soap, then 
gently spray the infested plants with it, so as 
to render the stems and leaves very offensive. 
You may strengthen this by soaking 2 oz. of 
Tobacco in a gallon of hot water, and adding 
it to the solution when you have strained it. 
That will not affect the Peas in the pods. 
Not only should Peas be sown on deeply- 
worked and well-manured soil? and also sown 



Small movable Mushroom-beds against a wall. 

Tar more thinly than is the general rule, but 
they need in dry weather liberal waterings, 
and also in the evening overhead syringing, as 
that helps the haulm to regain substance after 
the heat of the day. Still farther with liberal 
waterings they like mulchings of long manure 
laid along either side of the rows, to shelter 
the roots from the heat. How far in the 
past you have acted on these lines you will 
know, but if not so|, I wonder failure re- 

Cfftf^ERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 






March 16, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 

THE TAR WEED (CHAM^EBATIA 
FOLIOLOSA). 

This unique little shrub, an illustration of 
a flowering shoot of which we give, from a 
photograph taken in a Surrey garden, is 
remarkable for the Fern-like beauty of its 
leaves. It belongs to the Rose order, and 
bears white flowers, something like those of 
a Bramble. It occurs in a wild state in the 
billy country of California, where it grows 
about a foot high, forming a denso spreading 
carpet, which quite covers the ground. It 
is known by the name of Tar Weed in con¬ 
sequence of the powerful and somewhat dis¬ 
agreeable odour given off by the plant when 
touched or walked upon, and which is very 
noticeable in the air where the plant is com¬ 
mon. This plant is sometimes, though not 
often, seen in English greenhouses. In 
favoured positions in this country, it would 
probably do well in the rock-garden or on 
well-drained banks. I have seen it growing 
freely in places where there were sharp frost 
and snow early in November, and where it 
must have been subjected to much cold 
during the winter. In trying it out-of-doors, 
as sunny a position as possible should be 
given it, and it should bo planted in well- 
drained sandy loam. R. 

TENDER PLANTS IN THE SOUTH¬ 
WEST.—I. 

South Devon and the southern shores of 
Cornwall are ho favoured in the way of cli¬ 
mate that plants which can only he grown 
around London under glass are to bo met 
with in that district, living in the open air 
in the most flourishing condition. Natives of 
South Africa, Australia. New Zealand, the 
Himalayas, Burraah, Chili, and other South 
American countries vie with each other in 
vigour, and it is but natural that, this being 
the case, the culture of tender plants should 
be widely practised in that neighbourhood. 
Almost every garden is remarkable for the 
excellent condition of certain rare plants that 
it contains, and mention may be incidentally 
made of Trewidden, Tregothnan, Tregye, 
Trebah, Rosehill, Penjerrick, Menabilly, 
Trchane, Trelissick. Tremough, Lanarth, 
Bosahan, Carclew, Enys, Killiow, Pentillic 
Castle, and Greenway, all well known to the 
writer, in this connection. The plants men¬ 
tioned in the following notes form but a 
small portion of the rare and tender subjects 
cultivated in Devon and Cornwall, but the 
account of their successful cultivation in the 
open inay be of interest to those whose place 
of residence makes their culture, except under 
glass, an impossibility. 

In the spring the Acacias were a lovely sight 
in the south-west, great trees of A. dealbata. 
50 feet in height, being clouds of gold, and 
A. melanoxylon, A. verticillata, A. armata, 
A. longifolia, A. ovata, and others being 
covered with flowers. Great bushes of Abu- 
tilon vitifolium, 15 feet to 20 feet in height, 
carried quantities of lavender or white blos¬ 
soms 3 inches across. In some gardens these 
Abutilons have a way of dying off suddenly 
when they attain a large size. The blue Aga- 
panthus umbellatus, its white form, and the 
deciduous white species, which is not recog¬ 
nised in horticultural dictionaries, all 
flowered well; and Anemone Fonnini, from 
South Africa, developed blossoms. Abelia 
floribunda, grown as a bush, was covered 
with its drooping pink flowers. Alstroemeria 
Pelegrina and its white variety, generally 
grown under glass, bloomed well in the open. 
The Fig-leaved Hollyhock (Althaea ficifolia), 
grew to a height of 12 feet, and numerous 
self-sown seedlings are springing up around 
it. ASthionema pulchellum was pretty in the 
rock garden, and Androsace lanuginosa has 
covered a ledge 5 feet square, and was a 
lovely picture when in full bloom. A group 
of the Dropmore variety of Anchusa italica 
was a glorious sight in June; Arctotis 
aureola bore its bright orange flowers from 
February until late autumn, and Arthropo- 
dium cirrhatum, from New Zealand, per¬ 
fected its large white flower-scapes above its 
drooping foliage. Aristcea Ecklonis, a Cape 
plant, held branching sprays of small blue 
flowers: the ucwly-/nt?oduced 

[ 1 LiU 


lactiflora, over 4 feet in height, was a beauti¬ 
ful sight in the herbaceous border; the rare 
Asclepias Douglasi perfected its great flower- 
balls, and A. tuberosa its flat heads of vivid 
orange, while Asparagus Sprengeri, hanging 
over a ledge, was as happy as if under glass. 
Boronia megastigma bore hundreds of its 
deliciously-scented flowers, and is doing well 
in peat; Bouvardia Humboldti, which came 
through last winter uninjured, was white with 
fragrant flowers in August; the rare Bow- 
keria triphylla, from South Africa, bore its 
white Calceolaria-like blossoms; Brachy- 
glottis repanda, 7 feet in height, and as much 
through, has grown fast, ana is now showing 
many budding flower-sprays; and Buddleia 
Colvillei, now 8 feet high, flowered for the I 
first time, and is at present bearing branch¬ 
ing seed-pods. This Buddleia evidently does j 


in September; the maroon-leaved, yellow- 
flowered Hibbertia dentata; the purple and 
white Hardenbergias ; while in a shady spot 
Shortia galacifolia and Ourisia coccinea 
flowered well; and Nertera depressa was 
covered with orange berries. Callistemon 
salignus, listed by nurserymen as Metro- 
sideros floribunda, bore a profusion of its 
crimson bottle-brushes, and C. lanceolata 
and C. frigida are doing well. The tender 
Calceolaria Burbidgei produced its large pale 
yellow flowers in quantity during the autumn, 
G'. indivisa was a sheet of gold in July, and 
C. violacea was very lovely when thickly 
covered with its lavender, hooded blossoms. 

S. W. Fitzherbert. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Planting Hollies (E. J.).— The spring season of 


A flowering-shoot of the Tar Weed (Chamasliatia foliolosa). From a photograph in 
Mr. Cham here’ garden at Haslemcre, Surrey. 


not bloom until it attains a large size. Ber- 
beridopsis corallina bore its crimson, globu¬ 
lar flowers in the autumn, and enjoys the 
companionship of other Chilian plants. 
Mutisia decurrens climbs through it, and dis¬ 
plays its splendid orange flowers with the 
background of its dark foliage ; Tricuspidaria 
lanceolata, formerly Crinodendron Hookeri- 
anum, grows in front of the Berberidopsis, 
and in June w r as crimson with flower, while, 
hard by, are Mitraria coccinea, brilliant 
when in bloom, and Philesia buxifolia, 
beautiful when bearing its pink Lapageria- 
like blossoms. Other plants in the vicinity 
are the giant Honeysuckle (Lonicera Hilde- 
brandiana), which bore flowers over 6 inches 
in length ; Clematis indivisa lobata, white 
with bloom in April ; Daphne indica alba, 
flowering in mid-winter; Colquhounia 
coocinea, a very rare Himalayan shrub that 
bore its orange-red flowers for the first time 


the year is, no doubt, the best and safest time to plant 
most varieties of Holly. It should be done at the end 
of April and throughout the month of May, after 
the plants have commenced to put forth new growth, 
and, if the roots are well mulched to protect them 
from drought, and the operation of replanting is care¬ 
fully performed, failures rarely occur. 

The Golden Juniper. —The great heat of 
last summer apparently suited those trees 
and shrubs that are distinguished by their 
yellow tint. I never before saw the Golden 
Juniper so finely coloured, and Retinospora 
plumosa aurea, Thuja semper-aurea, and 
Cupressus Lawsoniana lutea were in excep¬ 
tionally fine form. I noticed that position 
had a marked effect, for when the sun did 
not come fully through the greater part of 
tho day the foliage was not so highly 
coloured. In pips^ioms where the plants 
were exposed to a free circulation of air, 
and got the full force of the sun,'the 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 











Digitized by 


Google 


Original from 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



March 1G, 1907 


GARDENING ILL USTRATED. 


31 



greater increase of the plants is seen where 
there is a natural root-run in a rich mud- 
bottom, as opposed to the artificially-con¬ 
structed pond, and where the soil is re¬ 
stricted. A great depth of water is not neces¬ 
sary for the plants, and from 1^ feet to 2 feet 
deep is ample. Where the plants are required 
in small rock pools and the like, it will be 
found best to plant them in strong loam and 
manure in wicker baskets or other such re¬ 
ceptacles, sinking the plants into their 
allotted places, and finally surrounding them 
with soil. The Arrowheads are not averse to 
a partially shaded position, which conduces 
to a prolonged flowering. 

The following are the nest of the cultivated 
forms : — 

S. japonica. —A beautiful species, with 
snowy-white flowers and golden anthers. 

S. J. FL.-PLEN'O. —In the Kew “ Hand-list 
of Hardy Plants” this double-flowered Arrow¬ 
head is bracketed with S. variabilis fl.-pl., 
and there is probably good reason for so 
doing. I have, however, seen occasional 
specimens of S. japonica fl.-pl. that would 
suggest a well-marked geographical form of 
S. variabilis—taller, bolder, and far superior. 
In course of time, however, the two grew very 
much alike when grown side by side, hence 
the applicability of the latter name. The 
plant, by whichever name it is called, is cer¬ 
tainly one of the best of aquatics, the bold, 
massive spikes bearing large numbers of 
double white blossoms, individually like tho*-e 
of a well-flowered Ten-w r eek Stock. The blos¬ 
soms are arranged in whorls on the stem, and 
in full blossom the effect is excellent. 

S. MACROPHYLLA. —Aii effective species of 
doubtful hardiness, producing tall, loose 
spikes of white flowers, and very handsome 
foliage. It is worth a trial in the open in 
deep water, and, like Thalia dealbuta, may 
prove hardy if deeply immersed. In any 
case, it may be put out in the summer. 

S. MONTKVIDKN8I8 is a noble plant—too 
tender for the open. Like 8. maerophylla, 
this handsome species may be put out in the 
summer to enhance the beauty of fountain- 
basin or rock-pool in any warm and sunny 
spot. The plant is remarkable for its tall 
growth, often 4 feet high or more, lb pro¬ 
duces spikes of creamy-white flowers of large 
size, and these are characterised by a dark- 
coloured blotch at the base of the petals. 
South America. 

S. natans. This species is distinct in that 
its leaves are either floating or, as in shallow 
water, partly submerged. Flowers white. 

S. sagittifolia. —An indigenous species, 
common in the back waters and shallows of 
our rivers and ponds, and often seen quite at 
home us a bog or marsh plant. The single 
flowers are white, and very pretty. The 
double-flowered form of this plant is that 
mostly seen in abundance where these plants 
have been long established. In effect the 
plant is a modified form of 8. japonica plena, 
the flowers individually being smaller, and 
the entire inflorescence less tall. 

8 . variabilib. —A very common plant in its 
native home in North America, and as its 
name implies, a variable plant. The flowers 
are less pure wdiite than in the British 8. 
sagittifolia. S. variabilis fl.-pl. is presu¬ 
mably the authentic name of the plant usually 
catalogued as 8. japonica pl.-fl., without a 
doubt the best of the double-white flowered 
forms. 

S. HKTEROPHYLLA, 8 . gracilis, and S. longi- 
rostra are other interesting species with 
white flowers. E. J. 


The Willow Centian (Gentiana ascle- 
piadea).—The illustration of Gentiana urver- 
nensis at pago 7 seems to present exactly the 
stems, leaves, and flowers of G. asclepiadea, 
which grows so freely at Wislcy, and is in the 
gardens there during the late summer and 
autumn very beautiful. No doubt grown side 
b}' side the two species are dissimilar. Each 
produces flowering stems about 12 inches in 
height, and carries tufts of beautiful blue, 
erect blooms. How' little the Wisley species 
is known is evidenced by the fact that it is 
very rarely found in gardens. Lovers of 
bright blue flow’ers should be as desirous to 
obtain plants of these hardy Gentians as they 


The Double Arrow-head (Sa^ittaria variabilis flore-pleno—Hyn. S. japonica fl.-pL). 


to the river bank, or stretching away into 
deeper water, the effect of a goodly mass even 
of the erect, acutely-pointed leaves is one of 
the most pleasing and desirable that water¬ 
gardening affords. To this good result of the 
upstanding leafage, fresh green, and uncom¬ 
mon as compared with that of the greater 
army of aquatics, whoa<r1*aves float (fc the 

Digitized by (jO .QIC 


plants in some instances, and while anything 
but weedy or common-looking, the plants may 
in time cover too much space, and, crowding 
resulting, a flowering of less beauty and value 
ensue. In such circumstances, and in after 
years, this increase may entail replanting 
and thinning, which can be done at any 
time w r hcn the plants are dormant. The 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 

SAGITTARIA (ARROWHEAD). 

The Arrowheads are among the hardiest and 
most easily-grown of all aquatic plants. 
Whether in the way of informal groups close 


surface of the water, an effective and pro¬ 
longed flowering is added—flowers, too, for 
the most part white, and, therefore, again 
quite distinct from those of many other things 
whose home is the pond-side or meadow- 
swamp. If possessed of a fault, it is, per¬ 
haps, in the free spread and increase of the 










32 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


March 1C, 1907 


are to secure the gloriously blue-flowered 
Dropmore variety of Anchusa italica. I ob¬ 
tained seed of the Wisley plants, and tried to 
raise seedlings, but without success. It does 
not, however, follow that the seeds, which 
are very light and fluffy, are infertile. Gene¬ 
rally these robust-growing Gentians seem 
more easy of culture than do the dwarfer 
ones.—A. D. 


PLANTING A MOORLAND GARDEN. 

I am building a house overlooking the Derbyshire 
moors, and would be glad if you would tell me what 
to plant to cover the walls, also what you would 
recommend in two long borders on either side of the 
lawn, which is 100 feet long and Go feet wide? 
Roughly speaking, the land is 400 feet in depth, 
soil loam, but only the turf has been removed in pre¬ 
paration for the lawn, which has had to be raised 
slightly. The house faces north, but my dining and 
drawing-rooms have a south aspect. I am thinking i 
of having a couple of beds of Roses at one end of 
the lawn, and would be glad of hints as to sorts, 
and any information you can give me respecting 
t rees and shrubs in one of the borders which is much 
exposed to the wind in this part of the country?— 
Gladstone Road. 

[As the front of your house will be exposed 
to cold north winds, you cannot have better 
wall coverings than Ivies, as they not merely 
stand well in any bleak position, but they 
have the further advantage of being ever¬ 
green. Some of them grow very quickly, and 
have bright and attractive leaves ; I would, 
therefore, suggest your planting sorts like the 
silver-leaved and golden-blotched, and a 
variety known jus sagitticfolia. which has 
pointed green leaves, assuming, in autumn, a 
bronzy appearance. Dentata lias very large 
leaves, makes a good covering, and stands 
well in the coldest quarter. I have one at the 
present time on a north wall, and it makes a 
capital winter covering. But, if it is desired, 
some other creepers can be introduced, like 
Ampelopsis Veitehi. A. V. purpurea, and A. 
uiuralis, or one or two flowering creepers like 
Jasminum liudiflorum and Pyrus japonica. 
Clematises of the Jackmaui type will do very 
well on a cold wall. J have a couple on an 
east wall that are satisfactory, and after they 
are cut down in the autumn the roots are pro¬ 
tected with a little strawy material. Jack- 
man i and Edouard Andre, sometimes called ! 
the red Jackmaui would, I feel sure, answer ' 
on a north wall. If you are thinking of mak¬ 
ing a dividing hedge at the front of the house, 
Yew would be found of much service. On the 
south side of the house I would suggest Roses 
as a covering for your walls. Such well- 
known sorts as William Allen Richardson, a 
golden-buff; Cheshunt Hybrid, red; Gloire 
(le Dijon, buff, would quickly make headway 
in such a position and in such soil as you 
describe. Interspersed between these there 
might be planted Wistarias and some of the 
Clematises of the Lanuginosa type, as, for in¬ 
stance, Andersoni Henryi, creamy-white; 
Fairy Queen, pale flesh ; and Louis Van 
lloutto, deep violet. In regard to the border 
which is subject to cold winds, I would sug¬ 
gest your planting on the back Balsam Pop¬ 
lars. Planes, Limes, and Birches. The other 
portion of the border, which, I notice, from 
the plan, is fairly wide, might contain 
Acers like rubrum and purpureum (the foliage 
of which is very fine in autumn), a clump of 
Pampas Grass (Gynerium argentcum). Lilacs. 
Ribes (flowering Currants), Philadelphia, 
Laburnums, Genistas, Viburnums, Deutzias. 
Cerasus (double Cherry), Brooms (white and 
yellow). In the front of the border might be 
a belt of Rhododendrons or Pteonies, a few 
of the shrubby Spiraeas, and Tritonias might 
also be planted with considerable advantage. 
The other long border shown on the plan 
might be devoted to a collection of herbace¬ 
ous plants, and of these tall things like Star- 
worts, Hollyhocks, etc., should be relegated 
to the back row, following on with Cam¬ 
panulas, Erigerons, Hemeroeallis (Day 
Lilies), Irises of sorts. Rudbeckias. Paconies, 
Lupins, Gypsophila in variety, Heucheras, 
Eryngiunis, Echinops (Globe Thistles), Dicen- 
tras, Lathyruses, Delphiniums (back row- 
plants), Chrysanthemums in variety. Such 
os these planted in a garden will provide 
quantities of flowers for cutting throughout 
the summer and autumn. 

Over the arches which it is intended to 
place across the walkOTere mi«'htJL>t planted 

Digitized by VjOOVlC 


Roses of the Rambler type, Crimson 
Rambler, Dorothy Perkins, Bennett’s Seed¬ 
ling, Paul’s Carmine Pillar, Longworth 
Rambler, Dundee Rambler, all of which are 
of quick growth, and in an open country like 
Derbyshire cannot fail to do well. I would 
suggest that instead of your erecting a wooden 
fence to divide the lawn from the kitchen 
garden, you plant a row of Lord Penzance’s 
Hybrid Sweet Briers, which will make a 
gorgeous show, grow very fast, and he much 
more in keeping with your garden than any 
fence could possibly be. Here are a few 
varieties that are worth noting in this con¬ 
nection : Aline of Geierstein, dark crimson ; 
Rose Bradwardine, rose; Brenda, peach; 
Lady Penzance, coppery; Lucy Ashton, 
white. 1 notice that your garden walls are 
composed of rough Derbyshire limestone. 
Many creeping plants take kindly to this 
material, and Ivies and Ampelopsis quickly 
get hold. It is also well adapted for growing 
many alpines and Mosses, as you will, doubt¬ 
less. remember. On one of the short borders 
space should he provided for the growing of 
hardy and half-hardy annuals, whilst Sweet 
Peas, one of the best of annuals for cutting, 
ought not to be forgotten. A few shillings 
spent in annuals in a garden will do much 
towards making a bright and attractive 
display. 

In regard to the lawn, there is no doubt 
that a sward produced from lawn-seed is to 
be preferred to any other, but, in your ease, 
where the turf has been stripped, it would be 
an easy matter to relny the best, discarding 
any pieces that are very weedy. If. however, 
expense does not bar the way, a lawn pro¬ 
duced from specially-selected seed, although 
it. is more trouble for the first twelve months, 
gives the most satisfaction in the long run. 

You make no mention as to what you de¬ 
sire to plant in the beds, shown on the plan, 
at. the front of the house, but if something is 
desired of a permanent, character, then you 
might plant hucIi as Hollies, Aucubas, or 
Rhododendrons, if there is no lime in the 
soil, and other flowering shrubs. The raised 
border leading up to the front door, to 
be made up of stones and tufa, would be 
suitable for growing hardy Heaths, Funkias, 
Wiehuraiana Roses. Vincas, Cotoneasters, 
Ferns, etc. The beds on the lawn proposed 
to be reserved for Roses should contain both 
Hybrid Perpetuals and Hybrid Teas. If you 
have a piece of trellis to bo hidden with 
flowers and foliage, plant a Blush Rambler 
Rose. It is a strong grower, and yields many 
serai-double blooms of a very pretty shade of 
colour. 

If you have not reserved a portion of the 
garden for subjects that are now often re¬ 
ferred to a-s “old-fashioned.” I would advise 
you to consider this point, and read the 
article in our issue of February 16tli. p. 700. 
As you have plenty of space at your disposal, 
you might, with a view of providing dried 
flowers for winter, grow “everlasting” 
flow ers like Heliehrvsums. Gypsophilas, Ervn- 
giums, Echinops (Globe Thistles), which, to¬ 
gether with the silvery pods of Honesty, are 
most useful. Some of the plants with sweet- 
scented blossoms like the Rockets, Pinks, 
and.annuals represented by Sweet Alvssum, 
Virginia Stock, Mignonette, Sweet Sultan, 
and the Night-scented Stock (Mathiola bicor-- 
nis), ought to be grown near to the house— 
say. on one of the narrow borders under the 
windows. Leahurst. 


THE SWEET PEA IN AMERICA. 
The Sweet, Pea prefers a rich, deep loam, 
but it will grow well in almost any well- 
drained soil. The plants can absorb and use 
large quantities of moisture, but they do not 
like “wet feet.” Too often the mistake is 
made of planting the Sweet Pea in a trench 
w-hich is slightly hollowed below the surround¬ 
ing surface. Then, w-lien the young plants 
are well started, there will come a heavy 
rain and they will be given a too liberal 
watering, or the water remains standing 
about the plants and the soil becomes sodden 
and sour. Under these conditions, the vines 
turn to a sickly yellow and rot just below the 
surface. This is the Sweet Pea blight, and 
when it appears, plant your Sweet Peas in a 


fresh location another year. The best pre¬ 
ventive is to draw loose earth up in a slight 
ridge over the row after planting the seed, 
and to keep hilling up to the vines as they in¬ 
crease in growth. This method, in connec¬ 
tion with a slight slope to the ground, will 
ensure good surface drainage, and cause the 
surface moisture to drain away rapidly. If in 
a dry season it is desirable to water or irri¬ 
gate the rows of Sweet. Peas, make a shallow 
drill or furrow on each side of the row and 
run these trenches full of water, instead of 
putting it directly on the root-stems. After 
a heavy watering of this kind, allow the sur¬ 
face soil to dry out. and work it ns soon ns it 
will crumble readily into small particles. 
Sweet Pca-s may also be grown in warm sandy 
soil, if the seed is planted very early, and 
they will flower freely until hot weather sets 
in, but the flowers will not be so large, nor 
the steins so long as when planted in cooler, 
heavier soils. The period of flowering may 
be prolonged when grown in light soils by 
placing u mulch about the roots to keep the 
soil cool and watering the row copiously at 
frequent intervals during dry weather. Para¬ 
doxical as it may seem, 1 secure the best 
blooms and longest season of flowering in a 
comparatively dry, warm summer. Under 
these conditions, the vines make a moderate 
growth during the cool spring months, and 
blossom profusely from the latter part of 
June until the vines and foliage are destroyed 
by red-spider during the hot weather in 
August. On the other hand, if the summer 
season is cool with continued heavy rains tliu 
vines make a large, soft growth of foliage, 
are late in making flower buds, and if a 
heavy rainstorm comes in the afternoon or 
evening, so that- the buds do not dry off before 
nightfall, the buds blast and drop from the 
stems without opening. For this reason I 
would caution Sweet Pea growers against, 
syringing their vines in the evening. It is 
much better to syringe the vines in the early 
morning. 

How AND WHEN To PLANT. Satisfactory 
results with the Sweet Pea may be bail by 
planting the seed at the earliest possible 
opportunity in the spring. The plants are 
quite hardy, and no injury will result if the 
soil should become slightly frozen after the 
seed is planted. It is the practice of the 
most successful growers to prepare the 
ground for the Sweet Pea rows in the fall. 
Then, as soon as the surface soil dries out in 
the spring, the. furrows or drills are made 
about 3 inches deep, without digging or re- 
ploughing the ground. This plan permits of 
a much earlier planting, as where the ground 
has to be dug or ploughed it must dry out to 
a greater depth to be put into the proper 
condition for planting. Arrange the rows to 
give the maximum of sunlight and fresh air. 
Where more than a single row is planted, 
have at least 4 feet of clear space between the 
rows. Do not plant the seeds too thickly, or 
the vines will be crowded and slender in 
growth. One ounce of seed to 15 feet of row' 
is sufficient under ordinary conditions. The 
seed may be covered from 2 inches to 4 inches 
deep in planting, but for quick germination 

1 would advise making a drill 2 inches deep, 
covering the seed with fine soil level with the 
surface and hilling up to a further depth of 

2 inches to 4 inches w ith fine soil drawn about 
the young vines as they become established 
in growth. Provide a support of brush, or a 
trellis of poultry netting, or of stakes and 
twine for the vines, and set this either when 
the seed is planted or at some time before the 
vines are more than 4 inches to 5 inches in 
height, for if the vines are allowed to fall over 
on the soil, it is a very difficult matter to get 
them to attach themselves to the trellis, or 
brush, and to assume the desired erect posi¬ 
tion. Varieties having pure paper-white 
flowers, and also some of the varieties with 
flowers of light shades of colour, have white¬ 
skinned seeds in contrast to the black or dark 
brown skin of the seed of the darker colours. 
These light-coloured seeds are more tender 
than the dark seeds, and are likely to rot in 
the ground if planted too early, while the 
soil is still cold and wet. This trouble is due 
to the tender character of the outer covering 
of the seed, and as it is not always desirable 
to v lit. until later in the season to plant the 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




March 1G, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTKdTED. 


33 


white-flowered sorts, it is best to follow the 
"Hutchins” method with these. This con¬ 
sists simplj' in placing the paper bag contain- [ 
iug the seed 2 inches or 3 inches deep in the 
ground and covering it with earth. Treated 
in this way, the seed absorbs moisture, 
swells more gradually, and will be ready for 
planting in the regular manner in about a 
week’s time. For the warm South and the 
moderate winters of the Middle States, the 
plan of a late fall planting of Sweet Pea-seed 
gives very satisfactory results, the seeds being 
sown in drills 2 inches deep in well-drained 
ground, late in the fall, to lie dormant in the 
ground through the winter. This fall-planted 
.^eed germinates much earlier than the 
earliest spring planting that can be made, 
and comes into bloom at least a month earlier, 
giving larger and better flowers. I have also 
found that a late spring planting, made about 
the last of May or early in June, will pro¬ 
duce very good flowers, but not nearly so 
many of them, during the cool fall months. 
In these late spring and fall plantings, I 
moke the rows 4 feet apart, and have the 
plants stand 6 inches to 12 inches apart, 
allowing the vines to run at will over the 
ground. This plan seems to greatly prolong 
the life of the vines, and gives a correspond¬ 
ingly longer period of bloom, over those 
grown on a trellis or brush in the ordinary 
manner. In the late fall planting, I sow the 
seed quite thickly, an ounce to 10 feet or 
13 feet of row. and ridge the earth slightly 
above the row when covering the seed. Thu 
germination is not so even as from the early 
spring planting, but this quantify of seed 
will give an ample stand for good results, as 
where the vines are left to spread on the. i 
soil they will branch much more freely than 
when grown on a trellis. 

Fertilisers and cultivation.— The best ! 
fertiliser for promoting the growth of the ! 
Sweet Pea is farmyard manure, which should 
be dug or ploughed into the ground the pre¬ 
ceding fall, but well-rotted or decayed 
manure can be used in the spring in liberal 
quantities. Next to this come finely ground, 
pure raw bones, which must be well mixed 
with the soil before the seed is planted. As 
soon as the young plants are well above the 
ground, begin cultivation. Keep the surface 
>oil loose and fine to a deptli of 2 inches or 
3 inches by frequent hoeings or workings 
with a cultivator. This not only keeps the 
soil free from weeds, but greatly assists the 
growth of the vines by admitting a good sup¬ 
ply of air to the roots, and ensures the mois¬ 
ture of the soil. After the vines commence 
flowering, place a mulch 2 inches thick of 1 
straw and lawn mowings on the soil. The 
mulch will keep the soil cool and moist and 
do away with the necessity for continued 
cultivation. 

Sweet Pea enemies.— Only two insects , 
attack Sweet Peas- aphides and red-spider. 
The aphides appear on the young shoots, and 
suck the juices from the plant. They can be | 
kept in check by spraying the vines with 
soap-suds, or any of the special insecticides 
offered for this purpose, but as satisfactory , 
a way as any for home use is to brush them 
from the vines with a small evergreen branch I 
and rake them into the fine, dry surface soil 
with tho garden rake. The red-spider is a | 
very minute insect which works on the under- j 
sides of the leaves during hot weather, suck- I 
ing the juices from the leaves, and causing 
them to take on a greyish or dead colour. 
These insects cover themselves with a fine 
web, and arc difficult to exterminate, but can 
be held in check by frequent spraying. To 
keep the vines in bloom as long as possible, 
remove all flowers as soon as they fade ; do 
rot allow them to seed. The flowers should 
be cut early in the morning, when freshly 
opened, and if they are to be sent away, the 
stems should be placed in fresh, cold water 
for ten or twelve hours, or overnight, as they 
wilt very quickly if packed when freshly cut 
from the vines. Always use a sharp knife, or a ■ 
pair of sharp scissors in gathering the flowers, 
a? pulling the stems from the vines bruises or 
injures the vines and will frequently cause 
them to die out and leave vacant places in the 
row.—E. D. Darlington, in The Garden \ 
Magazine. — > - 

Digitized by (jCK glC 


NARCISSUS LOVELINESS. balls of soil when required. There are now 

Those who have seen flowers of this beauti- | *°. raa ll.y beautiful Aubrietias—Dr. Mules, 
ful trumpet Daffodil will, I feel sure, agree hire King, Pink Beauty, violacea, and 
as to the appropriateness of the name that others that it is possible only by means of 
has been adopted. It is in all respects a cuttings or by division of the plants to keep 
beautiful flower, full of refinement and of I them true. A few varieties will seed very 
that exquisite finish that doubtless suggested ! we ^> but cannot be trusted to reproduce 
its name. It is a novelty of 1904, though, I j themselves truly in that way.—A. D. 
believe, exhibited on more thnn one occa- A simple method Of increasing Tufted 
sion in 1903, and in that year, indeed, the Pansies. —As soon as the worst of the late 
Midland Daffodil Committee gave it the winter weather has gone, the old plants 
award of merit. Belonging to the white- show signs of new life. In a little while the 
flowered Ajax set. it is at once a flower of more robust plants will develop dense tufts 
the largest size. The excellent picture here- of new growths, thus providing ideal mate- 
with presented displays the character of the rial for increasing the stock. First of all, 
variety exceedingly well, and, among other a cold-frame should be got ready, and bo 
things, the remarkable extent of the perianth filled in to the depth of several inches with 
segments calls for remark. The finely frilled nice, sandy soil, that has been passed 
mouth of the trumpet is also a feature, and through a sieve with a half-inch mesh, 
this is more pronounced as the flower ages. Level down carefully, and sprinkle coarso 
As a fitting companion to not a few others of road-grit or silver-sand over it. Firm this 
the white trumpet sorts, all possessing fine and all will then be ready to receive tho 
stature with a vigorous constitution, the sub- cuttings. Lift the best tufts of the old 
ject of our present note has much to com- plants, dealing with one variety at a time to 

avoid mixing the 
sorts. The dense 



growths may bo 
broken out with 
ease, and in many 
instances it will be 
possible to remove 
the growths with a 
few roots adhering. 
I n some cases a 
single tuft will pro 
vide an abundant 
supply of cuttings 
—sufficient, in fact, 
to meet the de¬ 
mands of most 
growers. No trim¬ 
ming of the shoots 
will be needed, as 
at this season, if 
dibbled in with 
care, they will root 
with the greatest 
ease. It is better 
to dibblo the cut¬ 
tings in in rows, 
starting at the left- 
hand top corner of 
the frame, first in¬ 
serting a label, 
with the name 
legibly written 
thereon, following 
on with the cut¬ 
tings about two 
inches apart. Ob¬ 
serve a distance be¬ 
tween the rows of 
about 2 inches to 
3 inches. Always 
press the soil firmly 
at the base of each 
cutting. Water in 
the cuttings, using 
a fine-rosed can for 


Narcissus Loveliness. 


mend it to tho specialist and the amateur 
whose desire is for the best of everything. 
This sterling novelty is still priced at some¬ 
thing like twenty guineas per bulb. 

E. H. Jenkins. 


NOTES AND IMPLIES. 

Propagating Aubrietias.— Generally, in¬ 
creasing these hardy rock plants is done by 
division, tufts being lifted, pulled to pieces, 
then replanted, often with very imperfect 
roots. One of the best ways to secure good 
sturdy tufts for lifting and replanting, where 
needed in the autumn, is so soon as the 
young spring shoots are from 1 inch to 
2 inches long, to pinch out, say, one fourth 
from each plant and to insert them as cut¬ 
tings thickly into pots or pans filled with 
sharp sandy soil. If stood in gentle warmth, 
all the better, but even if in but a cold-frame 
and kept close, rooting follows in a few 
weeks, and then, if the plants be put out into 
a nursery-bed, 6 inches apart, they grow into 
dense, sturdy clumps, and can be lifted with 


the purpose, and 
keep the frame 
closed for a week or 
two. In a month 
a nice lot of well-rooted plants should be 
ready.— D. B. Crane. 

Acrocliniums.— What the Rhodanthe is amongst 
half-hardy annuals, as regards its M everlasting ” 
qualities, so the Acroclinium is amongst hardy 
annuals. Those who make a speciality of everlasting 
flowers know how easily the Acrocliniums are grown 
and what nice flowers they are for placing in vases 
in the winter. Seed may be sown in April or May 
in the garden in any well drained soil in a sunny 
aspect, the seedlings being afterwards pricked out. 
From a small packet of seed one may get a nice¬ 
sized bed of plants.—D erby. 

Winter Cherries.-The bladder-like calyces of 
the Physalises are very useful for the house in 
autumn, and are often used by those who have to do 
church decoration. The Winter CherrieB delight in a 
warm border, and should not be planted in any other 
position in the garden, as, after a winter like the 
| past one, they often die off when planted on cold, 
exposed ground. 8eed may be sown now in boxes, 
planting the seedlings out-of-doors in May. Where 
! only a few plants are wanted. It is better to buy 
| them. P. Franchetti has larger and deeper-coloured 
calyces than P. Alkekengi, and I find that those of 
t’. Alkekengi do not split so frequently as those of 
P. Franchetti.—T ownsman. 

Amaryllis Pisclieriana — I should feel obliged 
if you will tell me jn your next issue the proper way 
of growing hardy \inaryll>s| Fiseheriana — a rare 
Syrian species'—W. M. Crowfoot, Becctcs. 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 


CH/> 




34 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


March 16, 1907 


*1 


INDOOR PLANTS. 

TIBOUCHINA—SYNS. LASIANDRA AND 
PLEROMA. 

Spite of their rich colour, their long season 
of bloom, and their easy culture, these 
beautiful plants are rarely seen in gardens 
or in the trade nurseries, and of the whole 
family few are even in cultivation. Though 
almost confined to Brazil, the genus is large 
and varied, including shrubs, herbs, and 
climbers, many of little garden value. The 
best known are climbing bushes, and nearly 
all bear purple flowers of similar structure, 
though differing in size, while, as natives of 
the same region, their culture as hothouse 
plants is in the main identical. One or two 
kinds, being found at a considerable height 
in the Brazilian Andes, do very well under 
cool-house treatment, with (when in pots) a 
spell in the open air during summer; but 
this is only safe with the hardier sorts. Their 
habit is loose and Ntraggling, but they are 
easily trained as wall, pillar, or roof plants, 
doing best planted out in light, rich soil, and 
trained near to the glass of a sunny house. 
As pot plants they soon become bare and 
hungry looking, without constant pinching 
and cutting back, much of which can be 


T. Benthamiana. —A low, rambling shrub 
with large leaves, covered above with fine 
down, and beneath with soft silvery hairs. 
The flowers, borne in clusters during autumn, 
are of a rich purple, each about 11 inches 
across. Organ Mountains. 

T. elec a nr. —This is one of the finest of 
greenhouse plants, but not often seen in per- 
lection. Its habit is compact, reaching 6 feet 
to 8 feet, with short, reddish branches and 
glossy, strongly-veined leaves of about 
ll inches long. The flowers, borne singly 
and in great abundance during May and 
June, arc over 2 inches across, and of a rich 
blue, shading to purple. Organ Mountains. 

T. Gauduhaiiuana.— A low shrub, the 
leaves and stems of which are clothed with 
soft bristles. Its flowers of rosy-purple ap¬ 
pear during summer as clusters at the onus 
of the shoots. Brazil. 

T. Gayana.— A white flowered perennial 
herb, growing to a height of 2 feet to 3 feet 
with the silky hairiness of lenf common to 
the genus; flowers in late autumn and wintor. 
Andes of Peru. 

T. oKAM i.nsA (syu. Tibouchiiia Fontanesi- 
ana).—A strong-growing, large-flowered 
shrub, with thick, glossy leaves upon short 
stems, and handsome flowers of crimson- 



Tibouchina hcmidccandra. Kngratcd from a photograph. 


avoided when planted out in a border of 
rich light soil, with plenty of light and 
air. So treated, old plants flower with great 
freedom, making very handsome objects. As 
exhibition plants, or for cutting, they have 
never been a SUCCaM, in spite of their bril¬ 
liance, the flowers slinking off easily, and 
those of each day falling at night; but they 
aro so large and finely coloured, and borne 
for so many weeks, or even months, in un¬ 
broken succession, that where a long display 
is valued in the conservatory, few plants are 
better w r orth growing. As a winter-flower¬ 
ing shrub, T. macrantha is very useful, while 
its fine variety floribunda has an even longer 
season of bloom. Their beautiful silky 
foliage is handsome at all seasons, and al¬ 
most free from insect pests; thrip is the only 
one that ever gives trouble, and Bhould be 
watched for. The Tibouchinas are easily 
increased from cuttings of young shoots just 
as they begin to harden, taken after the 
annual trimming of old plants in spring; 
if kept close for a while, they root without 
trouble, but need careful watering, sufficient 
air being allowed to dry the silky leaves 
whenever they have been damped. 

The following species have been intro¬ 
duced. but many of them are only to be 
found here and tiierfiifi private gardens, and 
sonic have prubal/TgoueyOU? oI»<liUi'atiun : 

Dr.m:' 


purple in branched clusters, their petals 
curving inwards, and nearly 3 inches across. 
Brazil. 

T. hetekomalla. — A lull growing shrub, 
with rambling stems and large rounded 
leathery leaves, covered beneath with whitish 
dow'ii. The flowers, carried in clusters from 
July to October, aro purple, and about an 
inch in diameter. 

T. HOL 08 ER 1 CEA.— A very fine kind of 
strong growth, remarkable for the dense 
silkiness of all it-s parts, from whence its 
old name of the Silvery Lasinndrn. Its stem¬ 
less leaves are borne upon angular bristly 
branches, with flowers of rich purple, open¬ 
ing in July. 

T. macrantha. —The best known of the 
group, and free-flowering when well estab¬ 
lished, old plants often bearing hundreds of 
blooms. Coming from a height of several 
thousand feet in the Andes, it does well in a 
cool greenhouse, where its growth is stur¬ 
dier, and its flowers richer and more lasting 
than when grown iu heat. Pot-grown plants 
are, indeed, all the better for several months 
in the open during summer, and should be 
well set with buds before being brought in¬ 
side. It does best planted out, growing with 
greater luxuriance, and easily adapted to any 
light, airy spot under glass. Its flowers are 
very large (about 5 inches across), of the 


richest violet-blue, shading to purple as they 
mature, and coming in succession during 
many weeks from November to early spring. 
A variety—T. m. floribunda—is of dwarfer 
growth, and has larger flowers. It U also 
more free-blooming than the type. The 
flowers are rather deeper in colour, the 
leaves aro rougher, and the growth is more 
compact and better suited to a small space 
or to pot culture; it is, however, less robust, 
needing more heat and some shade during 
the hottest weather. 

T. m armor at a. —This is a garden variety, 
forming a bushy shrub, rcmurkable for the 
creamy-white blotches upon its dark-green 
oval leaves; its flowers aro bluish-purple. 

T. 8ARMENTORA. — A coo I greenhouse shrub, 
with long trailing branches, bearing oval, 
short-stalked leaves, and large violet or 
purple flowers, nearly 3 inches across. 

T. sem i dec an dr a (syn. T. Kunthiana) is a 
stout, rambling shrub, reaching a height of 
many feet, with narrow, silky leaves, with 
prominent veins, and densely hairy beneuth. 
Its large purple flowers are composed of 
rounded petals, with darker veinings and 
reddish-purple stamens. The purple-shaded 
calyx is clothed with dense, lustrous hairs, 
extending as silvery down to every part of 
the young growths, as may be seen by our 
illustration. It is a free-blooming kind, 
vigorous, and with a long season of bloom, 
growing well in a cool-house or conservatory. 

T. VILLOMA. — A low-growing shrub, clothed 
with silky down in all its part*, and bearing, 
during early summer, rosy pink flowers in 
sparse clusters. 

NOTES AND ItEPLIES. 

CeanothuB and Solanum under k lass t u» 

thinking of planting «‘canothus di\ a ri call us and Rolanum 
jasniinotdes in large tuba as climbers under glass, no 
beat. The position is light and fairly sunny. Will they 
l>e likely to succeed'' Please aduse me as to soil and 
treatment for both. Ought I to buy established plants 
in pots, and plant at once 1* Shall I prune the OeanothiiN 
at time of planting? Ckanutmi s. 

[Wo think that the plants mentioned hy 
you would succeed quite well under the con 
ditions named. The general treatment will 
Ik? applicable to both. In the first place, 
good, well-established plants in pots of both 
should lye obtained, for with weak pieces you 
cannot hope for any great measure of success. 
Then, the tubs mustliave sonic holes made in 
the bottom for drainage, which should consist 
of a layer of hroken crocks, placed concave 
side downwards, and immediately over this 
some turves, with the grassy side downwards. 
This last will serve to prevent the drainage 
becoming choked with the Roil in which the 
climbers aro planted. This compost may be 
made up of three parts good turfy loam t«» 
one part each of leaf-mould, well-decayed 
manure, free from worms, nud one part sand, 
the whole being thoroughly incorporated to¬ 
gether. In this the two climbers named 
should be planted, and the soil pressed down 
moderately firm all around, tnking care that 
sufficient space is left at the top to allow for 
liberal watering later on. when the tubs get 
well furnished with roots. The Ceanothtis 
should certainly not be pruned at the time of 
planting, as it flowers oil the shoots of the 
preceding year. When the plant lias covered 
its allotted space any pruning needed should 
be done directly the flowers are over. The 
Kolanum, too, must not be pruned till it is 
largo enough. Care must be taken to secure 
the main shoots and prevent their becoming 
tangled, as once this takes place they are 
difficult to straighten.] 

Raising Auriculas from seed — I have some 
very good Auricula seed of a Scotch strain, and am 
anxious to raise plants for pot culture. Kindly ex¬ 
plain method to adopt and kind of soil to use?— 
Hyde. * 11 

[To raise Auriculas from seed successfully, 
get one or more shallow 10-inch earthen pans 
having holes in their bottoms for drainage. 
Put into the bottom of each, small broken 
potsherds or soft brick, and on that another 
layer of either Moss, Cocoa-fibre, or turfy 
soil, to keep the tine soil from washing into 
the drainage. Then fill up to the top with 
sifted potting-soil composed of old turfy 
loam, leaf soil, and sharp white sand. Press 
this gentlv.-down with the hand, jevel, then 
sow the serWfi'tmnlv. press in lightly with 

JWtWflSlIY 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 














March 16 , 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


35 


a little fine soil and sand, then water, and 
stand the pans in a frame or greenhouse, 
keeping them shaded with newspaper until 
growth begins. Growth is, with Auricula 
seed sown in the spring, usually slow and 
irregular, needing much patience. Growth is 
usually quicker if the seeds be sown early in 
August. Do not use garden soil, but get 
proper soil from a florist, if you have none. 
If the pans be new . soak them va water for a 
diort time, then let them dry before using 
them.] 


ORCHIDS. 

DENDROB1UM BURFORDENSE. 
This very pretty seedling was raised in the 
well-known collection of Sir Trevor Law¬ 
rence. It partakes of the character of both 
its parents, D. Linawianum x D. aureum. 


then as the roots and growths lengthen the 
supply should be increased, and the plants 
sprayed lightly overhead every morning and 
afternoon when the weather outside is favour¬ 
able. For the next two months, carefully 
protect the plants from any cold draughts 
which may come in through the top or bot¬ 
tom ventilators, or from side-lights which 
may be fitted too loosely, as frequently the 
I leaves of the tender young growths become 
badly spotted and disfigured Irom this cause, 
i Spotting of the foliage is also attributable to 
keeping the temperature too moist at night, 
especially when the weather is cold; and, 
again, through affording too much water be 
fore the plants have become thoroughly well 
rooted. It is often from want of carefully 
attending to such matters that beginners of 
these most useful Orchids (Dendrobiums) fail 
to grow and bloom them satisfactorily. This 
Dendrobium can be grown very well in an 
ordinary flower-pot, but over-large pots 



Dendrobium Burfordense. From a photograph in Sir Trevor Lawrence’s garden 
at Burford Lodge, Dorking. 


and. in some respects, it is superior to either. 
As shown iu our illustration, it is a very free- 
flowering hybrid, and the length of time the 
blooms will keep fresh on the plant, also 
when cut, is u matter of great importance to 
those who grow' plants for general decoration. 
In both these respects it is equal to the well- 
known D. uobile ; added to this, it flowers 
very early, being the first of its section to 
bloom. In habit the plant is similar to D. 
nobile, but the pseudo-bulbs are more slen¬ 
der, and the flowers rather less in size. The 
sepals and petals are suffused with rose- 
purple, lip tipped with the same tint, but 
brighter in colour ; the blotch in the centre 
is red-crimson with a white area. At the pre¬ 
sent time the earliest-flowered plants of this 
hybrid have started well into growth, and 
bear a green, healthy appearance. Im¬ 
mediately new' roots are seen pushing from 
the base of the young growths, and no re¬ 
potting being necessary filtermust klcMC- 
fuliy applied; at first yiuj!^n|l< qA^f^rCs, I 


] should be studiously guarded against, for if 
the roots become embedded in a mass of wet, 
sour compost they speedily rot, and the plant 
gradually dwindles. The pots should be filled 
to about half their depth with drainage ma¬ 
terials, a suitable compost being equal pro¬ 
portions of fibrous peat and chopped Sphag¬ 
num Moss, which should be well mixed to¬ 
gether, adding sufficient small crocks to en¬ 
sure porosity. Pot the plants with moderate 
firmness, but not so hard as to prevent water 
passing freely through the compost, and tie 
a few of the strongest pseudo-bulbs to neat 
stakes, so as to keep the plant firmly fixed in 
its proper position. 

The best time for repotting is when, or 
rather before, the young growths commence 
to emit new roots—if the operation is not 
carried out at that particular time, and the 
tender roots are allowed to lengthen before 
repotting, they are apt to get damaged, and 
the coming season’s growths will be seriously 
i affected thereby. After repotting, water, 


etc., should be supplied as previously 
directed. The plant grows freely, and little 
difficulty need be experienced in obtaining 
good flowering plants by anyone having a 
vinery. Cucumber, or Melon-house. A light 
position in an ordinary plant stove is also 
very suitable whilst growth is being made, 
or, in fact, anywhere where a warm, moist, 
intermediate temperature is maintained dur¬ 
ing the summer the plant will grow satis¬ 
factorily. Towards the end of the growing 
season the plants should be gradually ex 
posed to extra sunshine and additional veil 
tilation afforded. This kind of treatment will 
cause the compost to dry more quickly, but 
the plant must not be allowed to suffer from 
want of moisture, copious supplies being 
necessary until growth is fully completed. 
When the growths are fully made up* and this 
can easily be determined by the completion 
of the terminal leaf at the apex of the newly- 
made pseudo-bulb, the amount of water 
should he gradually withheld, and more air 
admitted. After about a week of such treat¬ 
ment, the plants may be removed to an ordi¬ 
nary greenhouse, there to remain for a rest, 
taking care to select a position where they 
will be free from draught or cold winds 
while at rest., and being exposed lo full sun¬ 
shine and plenty of fresh air. Some <>f the 
leaves will turn yellow, but although un¬ 
sightly, must not be clipped or cut off. but 
allowed to fall away naturally, and the 
pseudo-bulbs, being thoroughly ripened by 
the sun, will produce flowers freely. Care¬ 
fully examine the plants day by day, and if 
any of the pseudo-bulbs show signs of shrivel¬ 
ling, water should be afforded, but. they must 
receive no more until the compost has become 
thoroughly dry. Avoid keeping the soil in a 
saturated condition, because if the roots are 
always in a wet state they will soon decay, 
and the plant gradually deteriorate. After 
being at rest for about five or six weeks some 
of the pseudo-bulbs begin to show their 
flower-buds, when the plants may l>e removed 
into a rather warmer house, where the night 
temperature is about 55 degs., here to re¬ 
main until the bloom-buds are fully de¬ 
veloped. Afford a little extra water at the 
root, but it must be carefully applied, ns any 
undue excitement at this period frequently 
causes premature growth, which is generally 
weak and useless. When the flowers fade, 
keep the plants in the same temperature, 
affording but a moderate amount of water; 
afterwards, when the new growths have at¬ 
tained several inches in. length, and young 
roots begin to push out from their base, they 
may then be removed again to their former 
growing quarters. 


ROOM AND WINDOW. 


NOTES AXI) REPLIES. 
Verbenas for various positions.— There 
is no need to keep old plants of Verbenas, 
seeing that, from a packet of seed sown in a 
brisk heat in spring, one may get what plants 
are required. They are, however, when 
young, liable to damp off, and should there¬ 
fore be carefully watched at this stage. 
They are such showy subjects, and withal 
so useful, that more really should grow them. 
For pots in greenhouse or conservatory they 
are worth considering, and whilst one cannot 
ignore them ns subjects for beds and borders, 
they ought not to be overlooked for hanging 
baskets and window-boxes. The soil best 
suited for Verbenas is old loam, leaf-mould, 
and rotted manure, with a little sand to keep 
the whole porous.— WOODBABTWICK. 

Plants in country windows.— I do not 
think that it can be ascribed to the extra at¬ 
tention that plants receive in windows in the 
country that such good results are obtained. 
As to the fresh air they receive, I have 
noticed over and over again that in many 
of the cottages in villages, the door is open 
for most of the day in the summer, and when, 
as is ofteji the case, the living-room has a 
south aspect, there the finest plants are to 
be seen. Some of the finest Fuchsias I have 
ever see:*:, never had the advantage of a 
greenhouse, and not a few collections of 
three and four at country shows in the classes 
devoted to window plants received prizcsHn 
preference to greenhouse-grown plants. Some 









36 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


March 16, 1907 


societies, I am aware, stipulate that in the 
classes for the best window-plants they shall 
have been grown for a certain time in a win¬ 
dow. Window-plant growing gives oppor¬ 
tunities for friendly rivalry in connection 
with local shows, and is worth encouraging. 
Zonal and Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums, the 
common Musk, Campanulas, not a few an¬ 
nuals, like Balsams, Petunias, and Helio¬ 
tropes, are all comparatively easy to grow, 
and make a deal of difference to the appear¬ 
ance of a house. A window full of flowering 
plants need not necessarily darken a room, 
and there is no need to grow plants “ladder” 
fashion, as one sometimes notices. Good¬ 
shaped plants may be secured by turning 
each round occasionally and pinching back 
now and again.— Leahurbt. 


CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

NOTES AND 11EPLIES. 
Seasonable notes on Chrysanthemum 
culture.- —Where the cuttings were inserted 
singly in small pots in December, and placed 
under hand-lights in a cool house on a bed 
of ashes for the purpose of maintaining the 
soil in a moist state without having recourse 
to continual waterings, and also to exclude 
the air, they will now be nicely rooted. No 
matter for what purpose they are required, 
a sturdy growth is absolutely essential, and 
this can only be attained by arranging plants 
as near to the glass as possible. Directly the 
plants will bear full exposure to the air with¬ 
out flagging, they should be stood on a shelf 
close to the glass. To grow Chrysanthe¬ 
mums really well, the plants should have no 
check whatever from the time the cuttings 
are inserted until the blooms are developed. 
Some varieties take longer to root than 
others. Those that root quickly should 
occupy a position where they can have more 
air admitted to them. If the house is not 
fitted with a permanent shelf, a temporary 
one can easily be put up. One U inches wide 
is suitable. A groove should be made in 
each side about 1 inch from the edge, so that 
the water can run to one end, and not fall 
upon any plants underneath. The purpose 
for which the plants are cultivated must 
shortly be determined. If for large blooms, 
allow them to grow' uninterruptedly with 
one stem until the first natural break is made 
in March, April, or May, according to the 
variety. With very few exceptions, this 
method of training the plants gives much 
the best results. In the case of specimen 
plants, the top of each cutting should be 
pinched out at a height of 4 inches, thus in¬ 
ducing side branches to form, and laying 
the foundation of the future specimen as 
near to the base as possible. Great care is 
necessary to prevent the tender leaves being 
crippled 1 by the attacks of green-fly in the 
early stages of growth. Dusting the parts 
affected with Tobacco powder is the best 
remedy. 

Climbing plants for securing shade.— 

Greenhouses are generally erected where 
they will be likely to obtuin the most 
sun, and it therefore follows that the time 
comes when some sort of shading is needful 
for the plants grow ing in the house. Blinds, 
of course, overcome the difficulty, but some¬ 
times the object may be attained by grow¬ 
ing over the roof certain climbing plants. 
One of the prettiest is the Clematis. Another 
plant of rapid grovvtli, and one which yields 
many flowers is Cobsea scandens, and, when 
once established, it soon covers its allotted 
space. Lapagerias are capital subjects for 
climbing over a roof. Solanum jasminoides, 
the Swainsonias, and Plumbagos may also 
be employed as roof-coverers, and afford the 
needful shade to plants beneath. All such 
plants are best planted out in a border, and 
thus they are not dependent to any great 
extent on being watered daily, as ure those 
growing in pots, and creepers, if neglected 
in this respect, soon show it.—F. W. D. 

“The English Flower Garden and Home 

Grounds .”—New Edition, 10th, revised, with descrip¬ 
tions of all the best plants, trees, and shrubs, their 
culture and arrangement, Ulustrated on wood. Cloth, 
medium, 8vo., 15s.; post free, 15s. 6d. 

“The English Flower Garden” may also be 
had finely bound in 3 vole., half morocco, 54 s. nett. Of 
all booksellers. 

Digitized by (jO -glC 


FRUIT. 

CORDON PEARS. 

The many interesting notes that have re¬ 
cently appeared on the above subject, and 
also equally interesting admirably-produced 
photographs of Pears, testify to the keen 
interest taken in their cultivation, and with 
reason, because, given a good length of wall 
and a selection of suitable varieties, fine des¬ 
sert fruit is available for at least five months 
of the year. The various notes, however, 
strike, if I may use the expression, a some¬ 
what discordant sound, for they show unmis¬ 
takably that “what is sauce for the goose is 
not sauce for the gander”—i.c., tliat ac¬ 
cepted good varieties vary wonderfully on 
different soils, and although the planter may 
have the benefit of his own previous experi¬ 
ence, and that of others, even experts, he 
will find when on a soil and situation new to 
him that experience must be bought, and 
some few years must elapse until he finds out 
the sorts that are likely to do best. I am 
writing of cases where the gardener has to do 
the best he can with limited funds, where the 
natural soil is none too good, and he has to 
improve it with odds and ends he can pick up, 
and not of places where the cultivator can 
excavate 3 feet or 4 feet and fill up with good 
loam and a few extras. The editor has been 
good enough to ask me to chronicle a little 
of my experience in cordon Pear-growing, 
and with the above preface I proceed to 
business. 

The wall I had to deal with is 150 yards 
long, and has two good characteristics often 
noticeable in walls of such an age (a bit over 
200 years). It is 14 feet high, which gives, 
when planting at an angle, a long stretch for 
each tree, and it has a coping which projects 
6 inches—just the thing from which to hang 
the material for spring and autumn protec¬ 
tion from respectively frost and birds. I 
should like to insist on the absolute necessity 
for this. No matter how well you cultivate, 
and however many plump, well-ripened fruit- 
buds may have burst into flower, there is 
very little chance of a good crop unless spring 
protection is given. Pear blossom is very 
tender, and ever so little sleet or rain, fol¬ 
lowed by frost, will blacken the lot. I like 
a double thickness of |-inch mesh netting as 
well as anything for the purpose. A single 
net of fine mesh is also necessary in summer 
and autumn to protect from tits, which other¬ 
wise would tap the best fruit. In connection 
with this it may not be generally known that 
fruit so tapped can be saved to the ripening 
stage by the aid of plaster of Paris. Mix 
sufficient for each hole, put in quickly, and 
smooth all round just over the skin ; the ex¬ 
clusion of air will arrest decay. 

I snid above that the wall to be planted 
with the cordons was an old one. It was 
dotted here and there with huge fan-shaped 
trees, and literally covered with nail-holes, 
the outcome of the work of many generations. 
After clearing out the old trees the wall was 
daubed with a mixture of clay, soot, and a 
touch of soft-soap and paraffin. A spit and a 
half of the top of the border to the width of 
5 feet was thrown aside, and a lower spit en¬ 
tirely removed. I had nothing much in the 
wav of new soil. A big heap of stiff road- 
sidings that had been turned twice, to which 
a fair amount of well-chopped cow-manure 
was added, mixed up with the top portion of 
the border, formed our planting compost. It 
has answered its purpose. The trees have 
been planted sixteen years, and seldom fail 
to give us a good crop. A mulching of well- 
decomposed manure is put on every winter, 
and a heavy watering given in summer, if this 
prove hot and dry. It is hardly necessary to 
go into pruning details ; they have so often 
been discussed in GARDENING pages. I 
should like, however, to emphasise two 
points : Bo not summer prune too early, and 
do not have too many spurs on your trees— 
the one is conducive to a lot of useless 
growth, and the other tends to quantity at 
the expense of quality. 

In noting the successes and failures among 
the different varieties, I do not for a moment 
suggest it would apply generally. They vary 
greatly, as suggested earlier, with different 


soils and situations. I do not grow the 
earliest Pears, as they are not required here 
when Peaches, Nectarines, Figs, Melons, etc., 
are available. Clapp’s Favourite, our earli¬ 
est, is a kindly grower of good quality and a 
great cropper, remarks that apply to Williams’ 
Bon Chretien, which follow’s close on its 
heels, to be followed in its turn by Beurre 
d’Amanlis, a good Pear, but not a good crop¬ 
per with me. Louise Bonne and Marie Louise 
are both good cordon Pears, but Marie 
Louise d’Uccle is erratic—in some seasons of 
very fair quality, in others practically use¬ 
less as a dessert fruit. I should be inclined 
to include it in any cordon planting. It is a 
very heavy cropper, and the distinct flavour 
makes it valuable as an early stewing Pear. 
Doyenne du Comice and Thompson’s are very 
fine in their respective seasons (not far apart). 
Nouvelle Fulvie is a later and not so well 
known fruit in season with us from the 
middle of December until the end of Janu¬ 
ary ; a handsome and good Pear, a good 
cropper, as a cordon one of the best. This, 
and Glou Morceau and Josephine de 
Maliues, are our best late Pears. Of tlie 
Beurres, the l>est are Alexandre Lucas, Diel, 
Hardy, and Superfin. Total failures long 
since replaced by other sorts were Beurre 
d’Anjou, Chaumontel, Euchesse d’Angou- 
leme, Beurre Bachelier, and Ollivier de 
Serres. I planted Chaumontel, remembering 
the splendid fruit obtained from an old Sussex 
garden, but it is worthless here. Partial 
failures are Winter Nelis, which comes very 
small and cracks badly; Bergamotte d’Es- 
peren, a good cropper, hut of very poor 
flavour; and Beurre Sterckmanns, a hand¬ 
some Pear, but one that never ripens satis¬ 
factorily. Zephirin Gregoire is u useful little 
Pear, a great, and consistent cropper, late, 
and of excellent quality. 

Claremont. " E. Burrell. 

-To many beside “A. W.” it is sur¬ 
prising that the culture of cordon-trained 
trees is not more frequently adopted; first, 
because they can be easily attended to, bought 
cheaply, come early into bearing, afford the 
finest possible produce, and last, but not 
least, provide u succession from a limited 
space. Very fine fruits of Pears and Apples 
can be grown in some soils on horizontal 
trees trained to stakes or strained wires at 
the sides of the garden walks, where they 
take up but little space, and arc easily 
attended to. I suy in some soils advisedly, 
because there are cases where rampant 
growth hinders seriously the prospects of 
profitable and early crops. This applies to 
both Apples and Pears, but there are kinds 
which do better than others in this form, be¬ 
cause less prone to vigorous growth, and hav¬ 
ing higher fruit-forming tendencies. “A. W.” 
prefers single curdons for the walls, his rea¬ 
son being that they sooner come into bear¬ 
ing. I find these admirable, and the double 
cordon is nut one whit the less so. The 
double cordon does not come into bearing so 
soon, but against this may be claimed a 
slightly heavier crop of each kind when once 
fruiting begins. I agree with “A. W.” that 
maiden or yearling trees are those which the 
amateur might choose, on the ground of 
economy. 

Plums and Cherries may, as “A. W.” ad¬ 
vises, be grown in cordon form, blit the 
Cherry is less suitable than the Apple, Plum, 
or Pear when much restricted in space. In 
Cherries pinching of the shoots in summer¬ 
time is preferable to hard pruning in winter, 
because they are liable to gumming when 
growth tends to coarseness. Some of the 
more vigorous kinds of Plums do not fruit so 
freely when restricted. All need occasional 
root-pruning at some period of their life to 
restrain exuberance. The severe course of 
pruning needed in the case of cordon trees 
aggravates the tendency to grossness and 
attendant sterility. It is quite true that 
Apple-trees do not require wall shelter to per¬ 
fect their crops. They can be grown on open 
trellises quite profitably, if the details of 
pruning, suitable stocks, and occasional root¬ 
curbing are attended to. Exposed to the sun 
on such trellises, the fruit becomes well 
coloured and of good size. Men of long ex¬ 
perience say cordon Pears require much 
feeding to maintain growth and productive- 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


March 1G, 1007 


GAM)Kj\'L\ V ILL UsTJl lTti Ih 


ness to the full. No doubt when well estab¬ 
lished this is found to be so by reason of the 
soil being so largely occupied with active 
roots. There are many kinds of concen¬ 
trated manures available suited to fruit-trees 
that are in need of a change of food, but these 
in summer need moisture, to permit of the 
chemical constituents being made readily 
available for the roots to feed upon. In soils 
that are liable to become unduly dry in sum¬ 
mer, a mulching of half decayed manure 
must be provided, even when artificials are 
used, the latter in dry weather affording but 
very little support when there is no soil mois¬ 
ture present. Mulchings arc of inestimable 
value in dry summers where the nature of the 
soil calls for them. 

I have recollections of pleasant shady walks 
being formed by the erection of fruit arches 
formed of iron or wood. I remember to have 
seen a somewhat costly scheme of bent wood 
employed for the erection of fruit arches a 
few years since, and which gave lasting im¬ 
pressions of its unsuitability. With suitable- 
sized poles and light rails, erected in pergola 
form, much useful fruit may be grown- 
Apples and Pears in particular. In addition 
to the fruit vield in autumn, .there would be 
the floral pictures of spring and shady re¬ 
treats in summer, so that there is a combina¬ 
tion from the garden arches which no other 
form of tree and method of growth provide. 
Some advocate Peach culture in cordon 
form, and though I have seen some good crops 
obtained from such a system, I do not advise 
the inexperienced to take up Peaches, be¬ 
cause the nature of their growth offers much 
less facility, and at the same time more com¬ 
plication and confusion of detail. 

W. Struoxell. 


A COLD PEACH-HOUSE. 

Ose of my houses is a span-roof of the forcing-house 
type, sunk so that the roof reaches to within 6 inches 
of the ground level. It is about 25 feet by 11 feet, 
the long axis running north and south, 'lhe raised 
border on either side of the alley-way is within a few 
inches of the ground-level outside. 1 formerly used it 
for an Orchid-house, but having built a larger one, I 
removed the furnace and pipes, and the house is alto¬ 
gether unheated. 1 wish to use it now for Peaches— 
not for forcing, but simply to make sure against being 
deprived by frost, as one so often is, of one's crop. 
Would they be likely to succeed in a house of this 
kind, planted in the border, and trained up under the 
glass like Grapes? My chief doubt is about mildew. 
I find Strawberries do not do in the house for this 
reason, though no great care has been taken about 
them. If you think they would do, I should be glud 
of anv hints, and would like to know if any particular 
sorts of Peaches (or Nectarines) are likely to do better 
than others?—G. 

[Although your house is very narrow you 
can convert it into a cold Peach-house, as you 
desire, if you are prepared to effect the fol¬ 
lowing suggested structural alterations. In 
the first place, you would require front venti¬ 
lation on both sides of the house under the 
eaves or wall-plate. Wooden ventilators 
9 inches wide and 36 inches long, framed in 
4-inch by 3-inch material, the ventilator 
being made to open on pivots at each end, or 
otherwise hinged on to the lower side of the 
frame, and regulated with ordinary chains, 
would answer the purpose. You would re- 
quire four of these on either side of the 
house, and ventilators of the kind we suggest 
are very cheap nnd easily fixed in the front 
wall immediately under the wall-plate. Y r ou 
would, of course, need to excavate a certain 
amount of soil opposite to where each venti¬ 
lator would be fixed to allow of its working 
properly, and also to allow free ingress for 
air. Such excavated space could be either 
boarded or bricked round afterwards to hold 
the surrounding soil in place. We do not 
offer any suggestions as to top ventilation, as 
we assume that there already exist sashes to 
open on either side, or that the ridge is 
capable of being opened by means of levers. 

The next requisite is a trellis on which to 
train the trees. This can be economically con¬ 
structed of galvanised wires running the whole 
length of house, and supported by galvanised 
eves, screwed into the rafters with straining 
bolt 9 at one end to make all taut when fixed. 
The trellis should not be nearer to the roof 
glass than 12 inches, and. if head room will 
allow, 15 inches would be better. The whole 
of the trellifling should be coated twice with 
white lead paint. Then 4fce raised beds you 

Digitized t - VjOOglC 


mention would have to be converted into 
borders by taking out the present material 
and substituting tor it suitable compost. The 
border, including drainage material, should 
be 3 feet in depth. The drainage should be 
composed of a 6-inch layer of brick-bats, with 
3 inches of smaller metal on top, and be 
covered with whole turves, Grass side down. 
The compost should consist of sound loam, 
such as the top 3 inches of an old upland pas¬ 
ture, and if inclined to be heavy rather than 
light in texture all the better. Chop the turf 
up moderately fine, nnd to each two cartloads 
add 1 cwfc. of bone-meal, 1 cwt. half-inch 
bones, one good barrow load of lime rubble, 
broken fine, the same quantity of wood-ashes 
or burnt soil, and about a bushel of soot. 
Mix all intimately together, and then make 
up the border, beating and treading the com¬ 
post very firmly as the work proceeds, for a 
loosely made border encourages rank growth. 
If you are anxious to plant this spring you 
had better get the borders made and the 
structural alterations effected without further 
loss of time. If there is any doubt ns to 
water not passing away quickly from the base 
of the border you had better provide a 3-inch 
drain on either side of the house to carry it 
off, as stagnant moisture would be fatal to 
the well-being of the trees. As the house is 
uuheated it would be good policy to make 
provision for covering the roof at night, if 
necessary, when the trees are in bloom, with 
frigi-domo, or similar materal, as the glass 
roof will not ward off very severe frost. 

As to sorts to plant, we suggest two Nec¬ 
tarines and two Peaches—i.e., Lord Napier 
Nectarine and Stirling Castle Peach on the 
side of house facing east, and Stanwick 
Elruge Nectarine and Princess of Wales 
Peach on the side facing west. If the trees 
are planted about 6 feet from either end of 
the house they will stand about 12 feet apart. 
We have entered at some length into details, 
but the matter is not so formidable as it ap¬ 
pears, and the necessary alterations, etc., 
can be effected cheaply.] 


FRUIT-TREES FOR FENCE AND 
WALL. 

I HAVE a wall, facing S.W., also part wall and part 
close-hoarded fence, facing \V., both 20 feet long, 
and 15 feet high. Would you be kind enough to tell 
me the best fruit and Rose-trees to grow on them? 
Nothing has ever been trained or grown against them. 
I got the ground out 2$ feet deep and 3 feet wide, 
and tilled in with leaf-mould, manure, and road-sweep¬ 
ings last December. The position is also well shel¬ 
tered by workshops.— Wai.ls. 

[On the wall having a south-west aspect we 
should advise you to train a Peach and Nec¬ 
tarine, or otherwise a Peach and Apricot, 
whichever you prefer. If the trees are 
planted 12 feet or 13 feet apart, you could 
devote each end of the wall to Roses, as 
there would be from 2 feet 6 inches to 3 feet 
of space in width to spare ; but unless you 
particularly desire to have Roses, we should 
say devote the whole of the wall-surface to 
one or other of the fruits named. A good 
Peach for your purpose would be Royal 
George or Crimson Galande. Lord Napier 
is a very fine Nectarine, and either Moor 
Park or Hemskirk Apricots should succeed 
with you. As regards Roses, it is a difficult 
matter to advise, as we are at a loss to know 
which class of Rose you prefer. There arc 
many beautiful varieties among the Teas 
and Hybrid Teas, such as the old Gloire de 
Dijon, yellow ; Billiard et. Barre, rich yellow ; 
Climbing Caroline Testout, rose-carmine; 
Climbing Mrs. W. J. Grant, rose-pink; Mme. 
A. Carriere, white, shaded pink; M. I)esir, 
dark crimson ; Reine Marie Henrietta, ear- 
mine. Among Noisettes, Reve d’Or, deep 
yellow; W. A. Richardson, orange-yellow; 
Bouquet d’Or, pale yellow; Alister Stella 
Gray, pale yellow. Of the Wichuraiana hy¬ 
brids, Dorothy Perkins, soft rose; Mrs. 
W. J. Flight, very similar to the preceding; 
Alberic Barbier, creamy-white; Elisa 
Robichon, salmon-buff; Pink Roamer. single 
pink, can be recommended. Then there are 
the so-called Rambler Roses, such as Phila¬ 
delphia, an improvement on the well-known 
Crimson Rambler; Hiawatha, crimson, 
single; Leuchstern, light rose, single; Elec 
tra, yellow; Thalia, white; and The Wall¬ 
flower, rosy-crimson. Of the foregoing, the 


•U 


Teas, Hybrid Teas, and Noisettes would re¬ 
quire more cultural skill to flower them to 
perfection than the Wichuraianas and Ram¬ 
blers, so, having given a list of reliable sorts, 
we leave you to make vour own selection. 

With respect to the wall and fence com¬ 
bined, you may, if you wish for as much 
fruit as you can obtain under the circum¬ 
stances, grow cordons against it. If planted 
18 inches apart, you could find room for a 
dozen of such trees, which may consist en¬ 
tirely of Pears in early, mid-season, and late 
varieties, or eight Pears and four Plums. 
Twelve suitable Pears would be Colmar 
d’Ete, Williams’ Bon Chretien, Jersey Gra- 
tioli. Louise Bonne of Jersey, Beurre Super- 
fill, Marie Louise, Doyenne du Cornice, Win¬ 
ter Nelis, and Beurre Perran. If you would 
rather have the trees in pairs, select the 
second, fourth, sixth, seventh, eighth, und 
eleventh of the varieties named ; of Plums 
as cordons. Rivers’ Early Prolific. Comte 
d’Atthan’s Gage, Jefferson and Coe’s Golden 
Drop. If you wish to grow Roses on this 
wall instead of fruit,then we refer you to the 
list given above to select from. The soil in 
the border as now composed would require an 
addition of loam to render it suitable for 
Roses, and for the fruit-trees quite three- 
fourths should consist of good sound loam, 
with a fair quantity of lime rubbish added 
to counteract the manure. For fruit-trees, 
as much of the leaf-mould and manure 
should be removed as possible, as an excess 
would promote rank growth and render the 
trees unfruitful.] 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Fruit prospects. —Whatever the ultimate 
result may be, it is certain that fruit-trees 
generally are in a most promising condition, 
there being an abundance of fine, bold fruit- 
buds, which, it is pleasing to record, are, as 
yet, in a quiescent state. It was particularly 
noticeable at the time of pruning how firm 
and well-ripened the wood was, and this, 
coupled with the fact of the trees being so 
well furnished with bloom-buds, proves that 
the great heat and sunshine which rendered 
last summer and autumn so conspicuous as 
regards weather conditions, exerted a very 
beneficial effect upon them. Some young 
trees planted in the autumn of 1905 faiied to 
make as much growth as one could have 
wished, and set more fruit buds on the leaders 
and terminal shoots of the branches than 
was desirable, otherwise growth was, in spite 
of the drought, very satisfactory. In this 
case the blossom-buds had to be sacrificed 
and the shoots cut back to where there is a 
good sound wood-bud, and matters will, no 
doubt, right themselves this coming season. 
Although the prospect, so far, is all one can 
wish, frost may upset all calculations as re¬ 
gards the crop of fruit, as it has so often done 
in the past. There is one consolation, how¬ 
ever, this season, and that is unless abnor¬ 
mally mild weather should set in, the blos¬ 
soming of fruit-trees in general will be very 
much later than usual. Take the case of 
Apricots, as an instance. As a rule, these 
have often been in full bloom at this date, vet 
at the present, time the buds show no sign 
whatever of moving. Peach-trees are, if 
anything, more backward, and protection in 
both cases will be unnecessary just vet. So 
far, birds have not. done much damage, but 
there is ample time for them to do any amount 
of mischief, but T fancy the hard weather 
thinned them down, as they do not appear to 
be quite so plentiful as in previous seasons. 
—A. W. 

Apple Beauty of Kent.— This is a variety 
not often met with in this county, yet it is a 
sure bearer either on the Paradise or Crab, 
and besides being large, showy, and prolific, 
it keep3 well into the spring. Growth, too, is 
most vigorous, eo that no one need hesitate 
to plant a few trees if not alrendv in stock. 
It is also known under the name of Flower of 
Kent, and is probably much in evidence in 
that county, and I «ee Messrs. Bunynrd say it 
is synonymous with Calville Boisbunel.— East 
Devon. 

Index to Volume XXVIII.— The binding covers 
(price Is. 6d. each, post free. Is. 9d.) and Index (3d., 
post free, 3Jd.) for Volume XXVIII. are now ready, 
and may he had of nil newsagents, or of the Pub¬ 
lisher, post free, 2s. for the two. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



38 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


March 16. 1&07 


GARDEN WORK. 

Conservatory. —Show and fancy Pelar¬ 
goniums are not so popular ns they were, and 
yet during the month of May scarcely any¬ 
thing will give the same amount of bloom, 
and they come in well after the Azaleas are 
over. Of course, where there is a cool north 
house, both Azaleas and Pelargoniums may 
be kept back for some time. Those who are 
growing specimen Pelargoniums should train 
out the shoots now, so as to form well-bal¬ 
anced plants. Give weak liquid-manure 
often, and keep the plants in a light position 
near the glass. When I grew Pelargoniums 
for exhibition I had houses built specially for 
them. It is next to impossible to grow good 
Pelargoniums without good loam, and firm 
potting is essential ; in fact, firm potting is 
necessary for most things, except it may lie 
herbaceous Calceolarias, which seem to thrive 
better when the soil is not rammed too hard. 
If any of the Palms or other fine-foliaged 
plants require repotting or retubbing, the 
work may soon have attention. Kentias are 
nmong the most graceful Palms for the con¬ 
servatory, and if liquid-manure is given when 
the pots are full of roots, large plants may 
be grown in comparatively small pots. Some¬ 
times Palms, being strong rooting plants, will 
grow upwards and get very shaky, and I have 
often, when this condition has been reached, 
cut away a considerable portion of the roots 
at the bottom, to permit of the plants being 
dropped deeper into the pots. They soon 
make new roots and get established again. 
Tuberous Begonias should be started in heat 
and grown on for a time till they are show¬ 
ing flowers. We often see Asparagus Sprcn- 
geri used as a basket-plant, and very effective 
it is, but A. pi urn os us tenuissimus and others 
may also be grown in baskets, lightly shaded 
in summer. Old plants seed freely, "and new 
seeds soon germinate, so there is no difficulty 
in working up a stock for any purpose. Re¬ 
pot Fuchsias and put in cuttings in the hot¬ 
bed. 

Stove. —Rooted cuttings of Crotons, 
Dracaenas, ami other stove plants should he 
potted off and started for a time in bottom- 
heat. It may be necessary to shade flower¬ 
ing plants, but do without as long as possible. 
There may be a little advance in the tem¬ 
perature now, with a corresponding addition 
to the moisture in the atmosphere. More 
ventilation may be given also when the 
weather is bright and mild. Bank up the 
fires early in the morning when the weather 
is bright, and it is well once a week, at any 
rate, to let the fires go out, to give the ap¬ 
paratus a good tlean out, so as to make the 
most of the fuel. If it were not for the extra 
labour in restarting fires, I should let the 
fires go out every fine, warm morning, as 
when fires are kept going during the day 
there is often a lot of fuel wasted. Where a 
few Orchids are grown, some of the winter 
flowering species, such as Cypripediums and 
others, may require repotting or baskotting, 
and a little suitable material, such as fibrous 
peat, crushed charcoal, and Sphagnum 
Moss, should be kept in stock ready for use, 
and plenty of clean material for drainage, 
which is most important. 

Pines. —It is customary at this season to 
select a fine mild day and set all hands to 
work to re-arrange the Pines. Successions 
and rooted suckers inav require a shift into 
larger pots, and the plunging-bed renewed. 
Any successions strong enough to fruit, and 
which are sluggish in starting, should be kept 
a little drier and cooler for a time, to give 
the necessary check. Very often lifting the 
plants out of the plunging bed for a week may 
suffice. The fruiting-house may have a tem¬ 
perature of from 65 clegs, to 70 degs. at night, 
with plenty of atmospheric moisture. If the 
syringe is used, the water must be pure, and 
ripening fruit and plants in blossom must be 
avoided : 60 degs. to 65 degs. will be high 
enough for successions. In repotting or top¬ 
dressing, use only the best loam, suitably en¬ 
riched with bone-meal and a little horse- 
manure. 

Work in the vineries.— Where there are 
several vineries, they usually follow in suc¬ 
cession. At (lie present time in flu* earliest 

Digitized by (jOt 


| house (the Vues cither in pots or planted in 
the border) the Grapes will have been thinned 
and be swelling rapidly, and nourishment 
either in the shape of rich top-dressings or 
liquid-manure, or both, should bo given 
freely. If there are any dry spots in the in¬ 
side borders, see that they are thoroughly 
moistened with warm liquid-manure. Of 
course, outside borders are at present moist 
enough, and if they were covered with leaves 
and manure in a state of fermentation, they 
will remain as they are for the present. In 
the second-house the Vines are now being 
tied down, and the stopping should take place 
one or two leaves beyond the bunch of 
Grapes. At this stage the night temperature 
will bp from 60 degs. to 65 degs. ; Muscats a 
little more. Ventilation should begin in a 
very small way at first when the sun strikes 
full upon the house. There are days in March 
when the wind is cold and the atmosphere 
frosty, when it is wiser to give less air and 
use moisture on the floors very freely. Close 
early in the afternoon. 

Early Peach-housc. —The fruits are swell¬ 
ing rapidly now, and the young growths should 
be finally thinned and tied in, so that the 
foliage has room for development. It is a 
mistake to crowd the young shoots. If the 
bearing branches are trained from 5 inches to 
6 inches apart, there will be room enough to 
train the two young shoots which are neces¬ 
sary for next year’s crop without undue 
crowding. There must, of course, be a leader 
at the end of each fruit-bearing shoot, but if 
there is any danger of overcrowding, the 
leader may be stopped when a foot or so of 
growth has been made. Use the syringe 
freely, if the water is pure, otherwise trust 
to damping down twice a day in bright 
weather. Night temperature should not ex¬ 
ceed 60 degs. After stoning is finished, a 
little more heat may be given. 

Plants in the house. A few well-grown 
plants have a better effect than a lot of 
wasters. A good Palm or two, one or two 
good Aspidistras, a Rubber, and an Arau¬ 
caria will give character ; and for flowering 
plants, Azaleas, Arums, and Lilacs. Bulbs 
and Lily of the Valley will give fragrance 
not too overpowering. Freesias and Narcissi 
are abundant. Tulips also are effective in 
vases in Moss. 

Outdoor garden.— Gladioli may be planted 
during this month. If they are planted in the 
herbaceous border, plant in groups, five or 
more in a group, cover about 3 inches deep, 
and about 8 inches apart. If planted in beds, 
allow a little more, space, and fill in between 
with Violas. Divide herbaceous Phloxes as 
soon as they begin to grow. Pyrethrums, 
Delphiniums, and German Irises may be 
treated in the same way. Phloxes and Pyre- 
thrums should be divided and replanted in 
fresh ground every three years, to obtain fine 
flowers. Divide and replant Everlasting 
Peas, and sow seeds if required. Seedlings 
cannot, be relied upon to come true from seeds 
—at least., such has been my experience; 
and neither will they flower the same year. 
Hollyhocks come so true and good from seeds 
that one scarcely wants named varieties. The 
single varieties are bright and showy, and 
are robust in habit ; good for backgrounds. 
Seedlings raised in heat and grown on freely 
will flower in the autumn, but they are better 
sown outside and treated as biennials. Her¬ 
baceous borders should be trenched and 
manured, and the plants re-arranged during 
this month. This should be done every three 
or four years to keep the groups iu good 
condition. Such things as Pseonies, Herb 
Lilies, and other plants that resent disturb¬ 
ance should be grouped by themselves. Plant 
Carnations when weather is suitable. 

Fruit garden. —Apricots and Peaches 
should have protection as soon as the blos¬ 
soms open. Figs and Filberts should be 
pruned. Train the branches of Figs thinly. 
The fan-shape or a combination of the fan 
and horizontal suits Figs best. This seems 
to equalise the flow of the sap. Open-air 
Vines ought to have been pruned when the 
leaves fell, but I notice many Vines are yet 
unpruned. Old Vines should be well 
thinned to give room for training in young 
wood. A combination of the rod and spur 

l 


system will be found best, so that new bear¬ 
ing w'ood may be made annually, and all old 
wood which can be spared can be cut out. If 
there are any big buds showing, mites are 
present, on the Black Currant bushes. Such 
may be cut off, to give a chance of clearing 
them out at the beginning, where they are 
not numerous. Black Currants need not be 
confined to a single stem, in the same way 
as are Gooseberries and Red Currants. Cor¬ 
don Gooseberries and Red and White Cur¬ 
rants are very prolific, and may be allowed 
to extend to three or more steins. They suc¬ 
ceed well on north w’alls, and if the fruits 
are protected they will keep a long time. 
Raspberries may yet be planted, but should 
be cut. down first season. 

Vegetable garden. Main crops of Onions 
and Parsnips may be sown, if not already in, 
but many who want large Onions free from 
maggot either sow under glass and trails 
plant in April, or have sown outside last 
August, , and are now transplanting. The 
idea that only Tripoli or Lisbon Onions were 
adapted for autumn has long ago been ex¬ 
ploded. The best varieties of white Spanish 
and The Globe are perfectly hardy, and may 
be sowm outside and transplanted in March 
for main crops. This need not prevent a 
small sowing being made in spring to provide 
young Onions for drawing green during the 
season, but Onions sown outside in spring 
have scarcely time to produce a heavy crop, 
as large Onions not only require good land, 
but a long season of growth. The main crop 
of Carrots and Beet may be left till next 
month, but a few seeds of Horn Carrots and 
Turnip-rooted Beet may be sown for early 
use. Salsafy and Scorzonera may also lie 
sown now. Those who want large Leeks 
usually sow a fcw T Beeds under glass and 
transplant when large enough. Other Leek 
seeds may be sown now for late supply, also 
Brussels Sprouts. We usually make a first 
sowing of winter Greens, including Broccoli, 
towards the end of this month, and a further 
sowing in April. If the seeds are dressed 
with red lead birds will not touch them. 

E. Hobday. 

THE COMING WEEK S WORK. 

Extracts from a Garden Diary. 

March 18th .—The main crop of Potatoes 
will not be planted till the middle of next 
month, but we are filling up the warm spots 
with the earliest kinds, and if there come 
severe frosts in April or May we shall shelter 
them either by earthing up or some other 
way. We never have too many early Peas, 
so a good many are sown of the varieties 
which we have found do best in our soil. All 
vacant land has been deeply dug. 

March 19th .—All climbers on walls and 
fences, including Roses, have been pruned 
and trained. In pruning climbing Roses the 
strong, well-ripened shoots are left a good 
length, and the weak shoots cut out. Potted 
off Chrysanthemum cuttings. Some of the 
early-rooted cuttings that were potted off, 
when rooted, are now ready for 5-inch pots, 
and will be moved to a cold-frame. A few 
cuttings of late kinds are still being taken. 

March 20th .—Shifted on Fuchsias, and put 
in more cuttings. Shifted herbaceous Calceo¬ 
larias into the flowering pots ; will be grown 
cool. They do well from this onwards in the 
north house, freely ventilated. Can be moved 
to conservatory wdien in flow T er. We have 
several good things in Chinese Primulas, and 
are fertilising the blossoms with the camel- 
hair pencil, to get seeds, as crop cannot be 
obtained without. Sowed more Stocks and 
Asters. 

March 21st .—Young plants of Zonal Pelar¬ 
goniums have been moved into 5-incli pots. A 
selection has been made for winter flowering, 
and these will have a further shift later on. 
When the weather is warm and settled. thev 
will be placed outside on a coal-ash bed, and 
all flowers picked off till September. Sowed 
seeds of a good strain of Primula obconica. 
Weak spots in the tennis lawns have been 
dressed with lawn manure. 3 lb. or 4 lb. io 
square rod. 

March 22nd .—Put in cuttings of Dahlias* 
These are‘-if ruck in small pots, singly, and 

JNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



MAncn 1G. 1907 


GAUD EJVIJVG 1L L VSTJi. d TED. 


39 


pluuged in liot lied. All fruit-trees in flower 
are now covered with fishing nets strained 
tightly on poles fitted under the coping. 
Sowed more Sweet Peas thinly in circular 
patches. Shifted into 5-inch pots white and 
yellow Marguerites. Specimen Pelargoniums, 
including Ivy-leaved varieties, have been 
staked, just enough to open out the flowers, 
but not to make the stakes too conspicuous. 

March 23rd. — Re-arranged conservatory. 
Azaleas and Lilacs are making a brave show 
now. Watering is still done in the morning, 
for the most part, but a further look round 
i* given later, and if a plant wants water it is 
cot kept waiting. Cuttings of scarlet SaTvi&s 
are inserted in sandy loam. Begonias 
'fibrous-rooted) are also now rooting. Sowed 
h*rdv annuals in the outside borders, and 
divided and replanted Phloxes and Michael 
mas Daisies. 


BOOKS. 

THE MODERN CARNATION: HOW TO 
GROW AND SHOW IT.* 

Were we to judge the merits of this book by 
the sub-title—“ How to Grow' and Show It” 
—disregarding all el«e contained in its 115 
pages, rather than from the general stand¬ 
point, we might say at once that in the thirty 
pages devoted to this portion of the subject 
the novice may obtain some hints as to 
** dressing and staging” that might prove of 
value. Those, however, who grow the Car¬ 
nation—and the so-called “ class ” Carnation 
in particular—are a very small set indeed 
when compared to those who grow' this beau¬ 
tiful flower for its fragrance, its beauty, and 
its great charm. But while the authors have 
given so much space to “ growing for exhibi¬ 
tion,” not a single hint lias been thrown out 
whereby the present mode of exhibiting the 
Carnation might be improved upon. We 
refer to the pot-grown exhibits of Car¬ 
nations rather than to the* blooms staged, oil 
boards, and which are “ dressed” to such an 
extent as to appear little better than a decent 
single when the “ dresser” has done his best 
—or his worst. It is in this part of the book. 
“ Exhibiting and Dressing.” wherein is found 
the greater value of observation and of 
practice. 

In all the book contains some nine chapters, 
and of these the most useful, perhaps, is 
Chapter II.: “ Soils and Sites.” Chapter 
III. : “ Culture in the Open Border,” though 
of a rambling nature, contains some useful 
hints, but paragraph 3, on page 38, concern¬ 
ing the matting up of frames, is not consistent 
with “ damp is to be carefully avoided” in 
paragraph 2. How is it possible to avoid 
damp in a matted-up frame when frosts 
41 three weeks on end” occur? It cannot be 
too well known that the Carnation is very 
hardy, and frost rarely harms the plant, hut 
it is not a damp-proof subject. At page 81, 
under “ Seed and Seedlings,” the reader is 
told that “ the first week in April is 6oon 
enough to sow Carnation seed,” and that the 
seed boxes should be placed in a temperature 
of 60 degs. to 65 degs.” Far better that the 
seed be sown two months earlier, and placed 
in a temperature not exceeding 50 degs. The 
danger of high temperatures is curiously em¬ 
phasised in tne same paragraph as follows: — 
“ If seedlings are watered while very young 
and when growing in a high temperature they 
are extremely liable to d imp off at the neck.” 
What need is there fer the presence of so 
hardy a subject as the Carnation in a high 
temperature at all? *' Mnlmaisons,” Chapter 
VII., are very lightlv touched upon in the 
ieven or eight pages accorded them in the 
l>ook. 

Chapter VIII. deals with “ Winter-flower¬ 
ing Carnations,” and under this head some 
strange information is imparted. For ex¬ 
ample. on page 93, “ eight rows of 4-inch 
pipes ” are recommended for “ a house 20 feet 
to 30 feet wide.” Some of the most success¬ 
ful! y-m an aged Carnat ion houses we have seen 
have just half the number in a 20-feet wide 

llOUflP. 

We must, however, distinctly warn the 

•“The Modem Carnation : How to Grow an<l Show 
It." By Hayward Mathias and P. Smith. Horticultural 
Printing Co., Humlej- 

Digitized by Google 


would-be grower of Carnations not to follow 
the advice on *‘ stopping,” as given’ on page 
100. Here is a sample of the advice , ten¬ 
dered :—“ If a big crop of flowers be wanted 
at Christmas a batch of plants may be gone 
over and stopped about September 7th, when 
they will yield the bulk of their flowers at the 
time required. The time of blooming can be 
regulated to a nicety by the date of stopping, 
and it is quite unnecessary to grow special 
batches struck at different times in order to 
get a succession of flowers.” 

We may say at once we have never read 
anything so entirely misleading as this. In 
our experience there is nothing requiring 
closer study than this question of ' stopping,” 
and we could name whites, scarlets, and 
crimsons, which, if *' stopped in September,” 
would not bloom before mid-March, and later. 
There is indeed—in this country at least— 
a rare opportunity for the Carnation-grower 
who can regulate the time of blooming “to a 
nicety.” Another statement in the same 
chapter—that, c.tj., on page 103—about sow¬ 
ing seed in March, and getting the seedlings 
after being “cut back once to flower in 
August,” is equally misleading. 

The general arrangement of the text, the 
absence of any index, and the entire lack of 
paragraph headings, will hardly assist the 
reader in finding what he wants, much less 
is it in keeping with the author’s concluding 
words: “ Be thorough.” 


LAW AND CUSTOM. 

Workmen's Act, 1906 —1 employ a jobbing 
gardener one day a week. He cleans the windows 
or the house when required. He is also employed in 
a similar manner by others on the remaining five 
days of the week, (a) Am I liable under the Act or 
common law if the man is injured in doing my work 
on this one day in the week? (b) If 1 am liable, 
and wish to insure against accident to him, have 1 
to pay the full premium—say, five shillings, which 
is the usual premium for a gardener entirely in one's 
own employ (an insurance company to which I have 
written says I am so liable)—and, in that case, sup¬ 
posing each of his five other employers wish to insure 
him against accident, has each to pay the full amount 
of five shillings, the insurance company thereby ob¬ 
taining six times the premium (thirty shillings for 
one risk), which they would obtain if the man were 
in the service of one employer only; and yet, I pre¬ 
sume, when insured by each of the six different em¬ 
ployers, the man, if injured, could claim only under 
the policy of the employer in whose establishment he 
was injured—in other words, that employer only 
would be liable. There may be a way out of this 
apparent absurdity—say, each employer contributed 
towards the premium, this man then insuring him¬ 
self. Would this legally cover the liability of each 
of the six employers? (c) Is an employer—say, a 
florist—who employs a number of gardeners, sending 
them out by the day at so much, liable for any in¬ 
jury they may sustain when working in any garden, 
as, I presume, would be the case with the builder 
whose carpenters, bricklayers, plumbers, etc., make 
additions and repairs to one’s premises, the men being 
in the employ of the builder and not of the house¬ 
holder, although doing the householder’s work, just 
as is the gardener who is hired by the day from the 
florist?—Duaiors. 

[I will reply to your questions seriatim, but 
you must understand that, as this Act does 
not come into force until July 1st next, my 
opinions are to some extent speculative, and 
it may be that the Courts will take different 
views. Until the Act has been in operation 
for some time, sufficient to enable a crop of 
appeals to be reached and dealt with by the 
highest tribunals of the land, we shall not 
know precisely what the law is to be upon 
many points. Now to your queries:—(a) It 
is generally believed that this will constitute 
regular employment, and, therefore, you will 
be liable; to avoid liability, you should ar¬ 
range to employ the man for an occasional 
day only, with an understanding that he 
would be sent for by post-card or otherwise 
when next required. The fact of other per¬ 
sons employing him on other days in the 
same way does not affect your case, although 
it will be otherwise, no doubt, where the 
man is not his own master, but works for 
another man, who hires him out. (b) So far 
as 1 have seen, the insurance companies are 
willing to insure against legal liability for a 
three shillings’ premium, but for five shil¬ 
lings they will undertake all responsibility 
for moral as well as legal claims—t.c., liable 
or not legally, they will pay the man’s wages 
during a period of incapacity, and in other 
ways save his employer’s pocket in the way 
of gratuities, which lie would otherwise feel 
honourably bound to pay, apart from legal 


compulsion. Your view as to the man who 
is insured by six employers only being able 
to claim against one of them—that is, against 
the one in whoso employment he was in¬ 
jured—is quite correct. Doubtless, the in¬ 
surance companies intend to provide for 
cases of this kind, but at present they are 
shrewdly avoiding that point, and are busily 
engaged in collecting as many premiums as 
possible, (c) You will have gathered the 
reply to this from what 1 have already said. 
If you send for Mr. Jones, landscape gar¬ 
dener, and engage him to put your garden in 
order, and Mr. Jones sends his man Brown 
to do the work, Brown will not be your em 
ploye, but Mr. Jones’s, and he will have to 
look to Mr. Jones, in whose service he was 
at the time of meeting with an accident, for 
anv compensation to which he may be en¬ 
titled. —Barrister.] 

Sunlight stopped by neighbour's trees - 

A neighbour of mine lias some very tall Plane trees, 
which overhang my garden on the south side, and 
being 50 feet high they completely shut out the sun¬ 
shine from my own garden, and also one adjoining, 
which belongs to me. The trees are planted close up 
to a party wail, 4 feet high, and the branches stretch 
across the back gardens on both sides (only about 
12 feet wide), shutting out all sunlight. The houses 
are back to back, with 9 inch wall dividing. When 1 
bought, this property, fifteen years ago, the Plane- 
trees were then only about 10 feet high; now they 
are level with the highest part of the roof. Being 
fond of gardening, I am unable to grow anything 
but Ferns, and have lost my choice Lilies and shrubs, 
which I was able to grow at. first. When 1 complain 
to the owner (I have done so several times) he tells 
me I can cut any branches that overhang my garden, 
but he will not head down his trees or do anything. 
Am I not entitled to the sunlight I had previously, 
and have I a remedy in law?—B ayswater. 

[Certainly you are entitled to the original 
sunlight, aiul your remedy at law lies in an 
application for an injunction to restrain 
your neighbour from allowing the nuisance to 
continue. The fact that you are entitled to 
cut away any overhanging brandies has no¬ 
thing to do with the matter. I should think 
in this case the trees belong to you as much 
as to your neighbour, however/ The roots, 
probably, penetrate into your ground, and, 
under those circumstances, you would, prob¬ 
ably, be justified in making any necessary 
alterations yourself. The best advice I can 
give you, under the circumstances, is that 
you should let your solicitor write to him, 
pointing out the facts, and intimating that 
unless he agrees to a reasonable compromise 
you will be obliged to take steps to assert 
your rights. This may bring liim to book. 
If not, then begin by cutting off perpendicu¬ 
larly up to the edge of your ground, and, if 
he still refuses to recognise that you “mean 
business,” it will be for you to decide what 
further expense you will go to. —Barrister.] 


POULTRY. 

DRY r FEEDING FOR CHICKENS. 

A considerable amount of interest has 
been aroused amongst poultry - keepers 
with regard to the employment of certain 
mixtures as dry food for chickens. These 
consist of various seeds, mostly of small size, 
those of larger dimensions being crushed, and. 
are given to the chickens in lieu of meal and 
milk or other soft food. Very often the plan 
of rearing chickens adopted by the majority 
of poultry-keepers is not the most advantage¬ 
ous. It is known to those who are interested 
in profitable poultry-keeping as practised in 
Surrey that the young birds are not fed in 
the same way as they are by amateurs. To 
shut a hen up in a close coop,- which is pos¬ 
sibly shifted once a day, where she is quite 
unable to obtain food by scratching and 
foraging, is not the practice pursued by per¬ 
sons who raise fowls for the market. No 
amount of artificial food can supply that 
which would be obtained naturally by a hen 
at liberty, and it is beyond dispute that the 
earliest and best fowls that come into the 
London market are reared in the Surrey dis¬ 
trict, where a very different system prevails, 
the hens not being shut up in houses, but 
allowed a certain amount of range iu the 
open, where they can obtain natural grit.. 
Grass-seeds, and herbage for the chickens. 
This plan is not. one that is followed by most, 
amateurs, who think that the birds must be 
protected from the influence''of the weather, 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



■1(1 


a. mi) /•:.\v.ay; iuj’stil itkd. 


Maixh Id. 100? 


Yvhereas the practical breeder gives the hen become filled with honey, when the skep can 
and chickens as great a range as is possible, be finally removed and the honey secured, 
having regard to the character of the season. These operations should be performed dur- 
It would be useless to turn a hen and chickens ing mild weather from the middle of April 
out when the ground is covered with snow, onwards. The skep can be still retained as 
but every opportunity should be taken of a stock hive if, when the frame hive is full of 
giving them as free a range as possible, and bees and brood, the skep be removed and 
in place of dry food, ground Sussex Oats placed on a stand close to the frame hive, 
mixed with milk will be found far superior, making sure that there are eggs in the hive 
much cheaper, and more satisfactory than any that is left without a queen to enable the 
dry food that can possibly be given. It bees of that hive to rear a queen.—S. S. G. 
should be remembered that where a hen. as in 


the case of a wild pheasant, for instance, is 
left entirely to her own resources to eater for 
her brood, the greater part of the sustenance 
she finds for them consists of what may be 
regarded as soft food. It is to supply the 
place of this that the more experienced poul¬ 
try-keepers feed their chickens on a certain 
proportion of menl or bread, softened with 
milk, which furnishes the necessary animal 
ingredient. They recognise that the more 
closely they follow the natural conditions, the 
greater will be the success achieved, no 
broods being more vigorous than those which 
are reared free from artificial control. Any 
attempt, therefore, to exclude soft food from 
the dietary of young chickens may be re¬ 
garded as prejudicial to their welfare, inas¬ 
much as it is unnatural, and it hns yet to be 
proved that such a system has anything to 
commend it .—The Field. 


BIRDS. 

Canary with scaly legs (Marcus).— Age 
is usually the cause of birds’ legs becoming 
scaly, while the. disease may arise from a 
deficiency in the secretion of oily products, 
or from parasitic influence. If the legs and 
feet be soaked in warm water every other 
day for a few times many of the scales will 
become loose and come away, and so improve 
the appearance of the feet and legs. But they 
must be soaked till the scales are quite loose. 
After soaking the legs, dry them gently with 
a piece of soft linen rag, and moisten them 
slightly with a little vaseline applied with the 
tip of the finger, taking care not to daub the 
birds’ feathers when applying this. When the 
trouble arises from parasitic influence, sul¬ 
phur ointment proves very beneficial. Give 
your bird green food in small quantities; 
also a piece of Apple now and then, and to 
maintain it in good health let it have a piece 
of cuttle-fish bone to nibble at.—S. S. G. 


BEES. 

Transferring bees from skep to frame 
hive (J . J. Stone). —Having-furnished each 
frame in the new hive with comb foundation, 
either in strips 2 inches wide or in sheets 
reaching to within ^ inch or so of the bottom 
bar, cut out of the quilt that covers the tops 
of the frames a circular hole a little less in 
diameter than the bottom of the skep. Place 
the skep over this opening, and close the 
entrance of the skep. The bees are thus 
obliged to pass through the frame hive in 
going out and in. As the skep becomes fully 
populated, through the increase of brood 
rearing, as the season advances, the bees will 
commence work upon the comb foundation 
and draw it out into combs. In three or four 
weeks the frame hive will have become full 
of bees, when the skep may be removed, and 
examination made to ascertain that the queen 
is in the frame hive. Should it happen that 
the queen still remains in the skep, she, with 
the remaining bees, can be removed by means 
of driving. This is performed by inverting 
the skep, placing over it an empty skep, and 
)>eatiiig with the open hands round the sides 
of the lower one till the bees have run up 
into the empty skep, when they can be shaken 
out upon the tops of the frames. Having 
secured the presence of the queen in the 
frame hive, a piece of queen-excluder should 
be placed over the hole in the quilt, and the 
skep replaced above it; the skep thus becom¬ 
ing a super. The queen remains in the frame 
hive and deposits eggs in the newly-made 
cells, while some of the bees pass through the 
queen-excluder and rear the brood remaining 
in the skep. In about three wedss all the 
brood will have mt/umL and tb«Milceils have 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

Questions.— Queries and answers are inserted in 
Oardknino free of charge if correspondents follow these, 
rules: All communications should be clearly and concisely 
arritten on one side of the paper only, and addressed to 
the Editor of Gardp.ninq, 17, Fumival-strect , llolborn, 
fjondon, E.C. Letters on business should be sent to the 
Publish kr. The name and address of the sender are 
required in addition to any designation he may desire to 
be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, 
each should be on a separate piece of paper, amt not more 
than three oueries should be sent at a time. Correspon¬ 
dents shmdd bear in mind that, as Gari>knino has to be. 
sent to press some time in advance of date, queries cannot 
always be. replied to in the issue, immediately following 
the receipt of their communication. We do not reply to 
queries by post. 

Naming 1 fruit. —Headers who desire our help in 
naming frtnt should bear in miml that several specimens 
in different stages of colour and size of the same hind 
greatly assist in its determination. We have received from 
several correspondents single, specimens of fruits far 
-naming, these in many cases being unripe and other¬ 
wise poor. The differences between varieties of fruits are 
in many cases so trifling that it is necessan/ that three 
specimens of each kind should be sent. We can undertake 
to name only four varieties at a time, and these only when 
the above directions are observed. 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

Heliotropes from seed ((if. A. b.).— Heliotrope- 
seeds take about as long to germinate as Verbena- ' 
seeds. If sown early in March, potted of! as soon as j 
large enough, grown in a warm frame, the plants will | 
be large enough to harden oil in May, be ready to set i 
out by the middle of June, will flower towards the J 
end of the month, and continue blooming until the 
frost comes. Seedlings, we think, are not so good as 
plants from cuttings, as they grow too strongly, and 
do not flower so freely. 

Dandelions in lawn (Mrs. 1laswcll).—Cu t the 
crown oil the Dandelion, and cover the wounded part 
left in the ground with salt or drop into it two or 
three drops of sulphuric acid. The remedy is a 
tedious one, but there is no better way. At the 
same time you must prevent the Dandelions in the 
Held you refer to seeding, as the seeds are carried by 
the wind for a long distance. It the above fails, 
then the only remedy is to dig the lawn over, and in 
doing so clear out the roots of the Dandelions. 

Dressing a tennis-lawn (E. L.).— You should 
clear out the Plantains before you give any manure, 
which will only encourage their growth. In the early 
spring—say, April—give the lawn a dressing of nitrate 
of soda at the rate of 3 lb. per square rod. For such 
a lawn as yours a dressing of basic slag, at the rate 
of 6lb. per square rod, in the autumn, with the above 
dressing as directed, would have been very beneficial. 

It is now too late to use the basic slag, as, being 
slow in action, it is always better applied in the 
autumn. 

Heating small greenhouse (.4. S.).—Nothing 
can well be worse for heating a small greenhouse 
than a stove standing in it that consumes ordinary 
fuel—coal, coke, and wood. Apart from the nuisance 
created by the smoke, w'hieh you admit escapes at 
first, there are the graver evils of consuming the pure 
air of the house, so needful for the health of the 
plants, whether Tomatoes or others; and the emis¬ 
sion of burnt air or gas, which is always an offensive 
product of combustion, in such a greenhouse in such 
cases. If you cannot so fix your stove that it can be 
fed with fuel and air from the outside, far better not 
have a stove at all. A time of year is fast coming 
when for greenhouses no fire heat will be needed, and 
in such case best wait until April, then get strong 
Tomato-plants from a florist if you have none pro¬ 
vided. Get them into pots and grow them on, and 
they will then do well. Your ventilator seems to be 
amply large for so small a greenhouse. 

FRUIT. 

Pruning Apple tree (Pippin).— There is not the 
slightest reason why you should not grow your Apple- 
tree as a cordon, if you bo desire it, and ns it so ! 
happens the variety is one admirably adapted for the I 
purpose, and alwuys produces fruit of exceptional j 
quality grown under this mode of treatment. To 
convert the tree from a bush into a cordon you have 
simply to cut back the oldest or lowermost branches 
to within 4 inches of the stem, and the upper | 
or younger ones to 8 inches, making the cut in all 
cases just in front of or close to a wood-bud. This 
will be laying the foundation, so to speak, of the 
spurs, which will eventually produce fruit, and if 
your tree is as well furnished with branches as shown 
on your sketch, the stem will be well clothed with 1 
them from base to tip. We may add. for future 
guidance, that the branches you out back now, or, in 
other words, the spurs, will in due course produce j 
young growths, which should be cut back, say, early ' 
next August, to three or four buds. Should any 
growths result from this stopping, either snap them 
olf close to where they originate or cut them back to I 
one bud. This stopping, or what is generally termed 
| summer pruning, tends to the early production of 
I fruit-buds ou young trees, while, if carried out on 


the lines suggested it leaves hut little or no pruning 
to do in the winter. We should have also stated 
that the leading shoot on the tip of the stem had 
better be reduced to about one-third of its length. 

VEGETABLES. 

Pigeon-manure (F. L.).—This is a powerful stimu¬ 
lant, requiring to be used with care. It is perhaps 
the safest plan to make it into liquid-manure for 
plants in pots by placing the manure in a tub ai d 
pouring water upon it, using the liquid when about 
the colour of brown brandy, giving the plants a little 
I three times a week. For use in tne gnrden, mix the 
manure with twice the quantity of soil, either from 
j the garden or decayed vegetable refuse and wood- 
I ashes mixed together. In this manner it would tie 
I harmless to any outside crop. 

Rhubarb-roots after forcing (J. II. S.).— After 
forcing, the roots are usually thrown away. Even 
growers for sale, who know the most profitable way 
to deal with their produce, never do anything with 
old forced Rhubarb-roots. The best plan would be 
to divide the old plants out in the garden to single 
crowns and replant them, but by the time this is in 
print it will almost he too late. It should he done 
early in the year before the plants start into growth. 

I We have planted out forced stools, but the growth 
subsequently out-of-doors is very unsatisfactory. 

TREKS AND SHRUBS. 

Plant for bower (Lukrnham). -Of broad-leaved 
evergreens that grow quickly there is nothing to Mir 
I pass the Laurel, as, apart frum its rate of growth, 
the brandies are of a flexible nature and can be 
readily bent into any position needed. It- also bears 
j cutting well. The Yew forms a delightful bower, but 
its rate of growth is very slow. Lawson’s Cypress 
I (Cupressus Lawsoniana) and the American Arbor- 
Vitse (Thuja occidentalis) are of considerably quicker 
growth, and are well suited for such a purpose. They 
can be readily kept within bounds by cutting carried 
out in spring, when the harsh winds of March are 
over. 

AQU AP.I A. 

Management of gold fish (.4. F.).— Vermicelli 
is the best food for gold-fish. It should be finely 
crushed, and thrown sparingly into the water, taking 
care not to supply more than will be consumed at 
once, that none may accumulate at the bottom of 
the tank. The fish when “ on the feed " will take the 
vermicelli ns it slowly sinks, and will soon learn to 
take it eagerly. A little raw lean meat shredded fine 
is also good for them, and smnll garden or water 
worms may bn given from time to time. All gold¬ 
fish tanks should contain a number of water-snails, 
ns they not only keep the water sweet by consuming 
decayed vegetable matter and so forth, but their 
eggs'and fry afford excellent, food for the fish. If 
your tank is not furnished with sand and water-plants 
it would he well to supply these as Hoon as possible. 
The water should not be changed, hut only sufficient, 
added to make up for evaporation. Feed about 
three times a week in mild weather. 


SHORT REPLIES. 

K. /’. K .—Y ou give us no idea as to the dimensions of 
the beds, which seem to us too small to lie able to plant 
them effectively, and we should advise you to make simple 
beds, say. a circle in the middle with four half-moon beds 
round, filling these with the best Tea Roses, with an 
undergrowth of Tufted Pansies. YY’e hope to give an 

article on Christmas Roses in an early issue.- Wyes ids 

—Bee reply rs “ Begonia metallica ” in our issue of 

March 9, p. 20.- T. F .—See replies to " M. B.” and 

“ Newcastle" re “ Moss in lawn" in our issue of March 2. 
p. 6. A copv of this can lie had of the publisher, post 

free, for lj<5.- Doncaster. —Write to Darby and Sons, 

YVeston-street, London, YV.C.- W. S. —No, the manure 

will do no harm. It will help to retain the moisture 

should the weather be at all dry.- Hyde. You cannot 

keep the plantB you mention in a cold-frame through the 
winter. They must have warmth and plenty of light and 
ventilation. We fear there is no way of keeping the frame 

sufficiently warm.-S. S.—See article on “ Schizanthuses 

in pots," with illustration of S. Wisetonensis, in our issue 
of June 23, 1906, p. 225, a copy of which can be had of the 
publisher, price l.jd., post free. Okia.—YYithout Pee¬ 
ing the soil it is impossible to Bay what value it has. Ask 

a gardener in the neighbourhood to look at it.- Moss 

Groom. —YY’e have never heard of the machine you men¬ 
tion. Brutus —YY’e cannot undertake to name Pota¬ 
toes. X. V. Z .—Any seedsman should l>e able to pro¬ 
cure Furze seed for you. Sow early in April. We should 
say you would require about 2 lb. If you fail to get the 
seed in England, write to M. Vilmorin et Cie., 4, t^uai de 
la Megisserie, Paris. W. H. A. —1, No ; Roman Hya¬ 
cinths are of no use after the first year, and to make sure 
of good blooms it is always best to buy fresh bulbs. 9., 
Y ou can grow plants in pots, standing these on a trellis 
work ; but we much prefer to let the Vine border remain 

empty, if such can be done.- Amateur.—Kindly say 

whether you wish to have summer-flowering plants only 
or hardy plants. 


NAMES OP PLANTS AND FRUITS. 

Names of plants.— IT. S. I).— 1, Crassula lactea. 

- The Rabbit, Bexhlll. —Evidently fhe double red 

Ilepatica. It is hnrd’y fair to send one flower only, and 
that in bad condition, with no leaves to help us in any way. 

- G. II. D.— Stapelia variegata.- L. S.— Diosma 

rricoides- Mrs. CorbouUl Warren. — Iris japonica (syn. 

1. fimbriata). 

Name of fruit.—//. S. D .— Pear Craseane. 

Catalogues received.— Cooper. Tnber, and Co., 
5)0 and 92. Southwark-street, S.E .— Wholesale Catalogue 
nf Agricultural Seeds for 1907. ——Ant. Roozen and Son, 
Overveen, Haarlem, Holland.— Catalogue, of bulbs for 

Spring Planting, Vegetable and Flower Seeds. -Bees, 

I.td., YVapping Buildings, Iltverpool.— Catalogue gf Alpine 
and Ifcpjgcenwt—Plants and Florists' Flowers (Fo. :>), 

J-WIVERbl IT uF ILLINOIS AT 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


*C>. 1 ,4C3. -OL- XXIX. Founded by W. Robinson, Author qf “The English Flower Garden ." 


MARCH 23, 1907. 


Aconite, Winter, tho 
Adorns amurensis 
Annuals for the green¬ 
house 

Apple Annie Elizabeth 
Artichokes, Olohe 
Bamboo (Nandina do- 
mestiea), the Heavenly 
Beaus, Broad, uutuuin- 
sown ... 

Birds.. 

Blossom prospects 
Calceolarias in cold- 
frames 

Cape Cowslip (Eachena- 
lias), the 

Carnation “ spot.,'' the .. 
Chrysanthemum maxi¬ 
mum 

Chrysanthemums 
Chrysanthemums and 
rabbits 


INDEX. 


•IS 

Chrysanthemums — sea- 


Fruit garden 

52 

Obituary Sir Thomas 


Plants, edging 

54 

48 

amiable notes 

46 

Fruit-tree hark, dead 

■>4 

Hnnhiiry, K C.V.O., 


Plants flowering in con- 



Cineraria leaves droop- 


Fruit-trees, planting 

41 

V.M.H. 

53 

servntory first week in 


50 


54 

Garden work 

52 

Orchard-house 

52 

May 

50 

4'J 

Cineraria leaves, un- 


Greenhouse plants in 


Orchids . 

49 

Plants for inside rockery 

54 

51 

healthy. 

44 

poor condition .. 

50 

Outdoor garden .. 

52 

Plants for pillars . . 

48 


Conservatory 

52 

Grub, name of 

14 

Outdoor plants 

47 

Plants for shaded rock 


43 

Cyclamen Conns, old .. 

54 

Hollyhocks, seedling 

48 

Pampas Grass 

54 

garden . 

54 


Cytisus scoparius Andre- 


Hydrangea, treatment of 

54 

Pansies, Tufted, 11 dozen 


Plants, tender, in the 


51 


50 

Indoor plants 

50 


47 

south-west-.- II. 

43 

53 

Daffodils failing to bloom 

40 

Iris, Algerian, in Corn- 


Pear Josephine de Ms- 


Potatoes, manures for .. 

51 

42 


54 

wall, the.. 

48 

lines 

42 

Poultry . 

53 


Dendrobium nobilo ami 


Iris japonica 

1)4 

Pears, some brightly- 


Piimula sinensis The 


54 


49 

Kales . 

51 

coloured. 

41 

Duchess. 

50 



48 


53 

Pentstemons from seed 

48 

Rose Austrian Yellow .. 

46 

50 

Ferns. 

49 

Mamnta Kerohoveana 


Plant houses, the clean- 


Rose Mrs. Conway Jones 

45 

44 

Ferns, recess for .. 

54 

(syn. Calathea Kereho- 


ing of . 

50 

Rose name wanted 

46 


Fig-house, the 

52 

veana) . 

54 

Plant, wall, in vinery .. 

54 

Rose, Tea, J>ena .. 

46 

47 

Flowers, hardy, at Fir 


Melons in warm-house .. 

52 

Plants and flowers 

45 

Roses. 

45 

46 

(■range. 

48 

Nephrolepis exaltata 


Plants, creeping, in- 


Roses, climbing Tea, for 



Flowers in the house .. 

52 

todeaoides 

49 

jured by galvanised 


greenhouse 

46 

46 

Fruit. 

41 

Oranges, seedling 

54 

wire . 

44 

Ibises, pruning various .. 

45 


Ruses, Monthly, for edg¬ 
ing a grave .. ..45 

Roses under glass ,. 45 
8nake millipedes. - 44 

.Stephunotis, treatment 
of ncwly-pottcd .. 54 

Bt ove.52 

Strawberries in earks, 

growing.41 

Theory r 4 rims practice .. 51 
Tomatoes in span-hotiFe 54 
Tomatoes, temiiorary 

houee for.51 

Trees and shrubs.. 43 

Tulips, short stem to .. 49 
Vegetable garden .. 52 

Vegetables.51 

Violets diseased .. .. 44 

Week's work, tho entiling 52 
Winter Green. t he Creep¬ 
ing (Gaultluria pru- 
eumbens).. .. 44 


FRUIT. 


PLANTING FRUIT-TREES. 

Sumk five years ago an aero of land was 
planted with Apple-trees. Not one of these 
trees is capable at the present time of bear¬ 
ing a bushel of Apples, whereas every tree 
should be able to carry at least two bushels 
of good fruit. This failure is entirely due to 
faulty management. They were planted in 
a way that is common in this part of the 
country. Holes wore dug out about 4 feet 
across and 3 feet deep, manure being mixed 
with the soil when it was returned. In this 
the trees made a good start, the growth 
being clean and free. Instead, however, of 
keeping the soil round the trees free from 
Grass and weeds, the grower took a crop of 
hay from the land, allowing the Grass to 

§ row’ quite up to the stems of the trees, thus 
rawing out the greater part of the nourish¬ 
ment, and depriving the roots of moisture. 
Had the ground round the stems been kept 
clean, and some manure been put on every 
year, they would have made stronger growth 
in following years, whereas they have, with 
few exceptions, come into a stunted condi¬ 
tion, from which many of them are never 
likely to quite recover. The great aim 
should be to promote free growth during the 
first five or six years, get tho size into the 
trees, and then take fruit from them. The 
stronger the tree grows in its infancy, the 
more likely is it to remain later on in a 
healthy, fruit-bearing condition. Premature 
decay, canker, and blight are more likely to 
attack trees that had a check in their youth. 
The cellular tissue does not perform its 
proper functions, the flow of sap being slug¬ 
gish. In the caso of land that lias been 
simply ploughed for generations it is a mis¬ 
take to merely dig holes for the reception of 
the trees, which eventually find themselves in 
the same position as a plant in a pot. In the 
course of time the roots run through the 
soil that has been stirred, and come to the 
hard ground, when they at once strike down¬ 
wards into the subsoil. The whole of the 
ground should be stirred to a depth of from 
3 feet, to 4 feet, according to its nature, so 
that the roots can travel in it without ob¬ 
struction. The difference in the growth that 
trees make in ground prepared in this way is 
very great. The grower reaps a rich reward 
in the increased bearing power of the trees 
and quality of the fruit. It must be ad¬ 
mitted that deep stirring has not always a 
very marked effect, but this is owing to the 
way the work is carried out. Roots are not 
likely to work freely in ground that is not 
sweet and friable. Trenching should never 
he done in wet weather or after a period of 
heavy rain. Soil that is turned down in a 
sodden condition becomes very close, and is 
apt to get sour, in which case tho roots 
never can remain in a healthy condition. 
This is one reason why canker sets in just as 
the trees come into a bearing condition. The 
best thing to do wihst^ ji^ndcd 


for fruit-trees’is to crop with Potatoes the 
previous summer. Strawberry growers for 
profit almost always crop with Potatoes pre¬ 
vious to planting, as the earthing up, hoeing, 
and digging bring the soil into a perfectly 
sweet, clean condition. If trenching is done 
as soon as the crop is dug up, the top spit will 
go down in a condition fit for the roots to 
work into, and if the land is properly drained, 
will remain so. If tho whole of the ground 
is treated in this way, no matter in what 
direction the roots travel, they will find 
themselves in congenial conditions. 

By fleet. 


GROWING STRAWBERRIES IN CASKS. 
A VERY successful grower of Strawberries in 
casks gives, in a recent, issue of the Sydney 
Mail, a description of his method, which 
might bo advantageously followed by any¬ 
one. lie says : — 

“An excellent method of growing Straw¬ 
berries is in casks. The. casks are ordinary 
wine casks, obtained second-hand. The holes 
in the sides arc made with a 1| inch auger, 
and so located that every four holes form 
an elongated diamond. Laterally they are 
about 8 inches apart, and vertically about a 
foot. Each cask is placed firmly and evenly 
upon three wood blocks, raising it about 
6 inches clear of the ground. The casks are 
filled with a friable loam, welL mixed with 
sand and the waste cinders from a black¬ 
smith’s shop, and a little bone-dust was 
sprinkled in. Four boles were bored in the 
bottom of each cask for drainage and corked 
in such a way that water can drip slowly 
through. A layer of charcoal, pebbles, 
scraps of brick, and such like material was 
placed in the bottom to a depth of 2 inches or 
3 inches, and was covered with an inch or 

2 inches of soil. Next a piece of galvanised 
piping, having a large number of small holes 
punched in it from end to end, was placed 
upright in the centre, rising 2 inches or 

3 inches above the top of the cask. A piece 
of wire netting (J-inch mesh) was rolled into 
the form of a pipe, so as to fit over the galvan¬ 
ised piping in such a way as to leave a space 
round the latter of from 1 inch to 2 inches 
wide—the netting pipe being somewhat 
shorter than the galvanised pipe. The space 
between the two pipes was tightly filled with 
charcoal. Planting then proceeded, the soil 
being packed firmly in till the first ring of 
holes was reached. The first lot of Straw¬ 
berries was then planted and a further layer 
of soil filled in up to the next ring of holes, 
when planting again proceeded. The soil 
throughout must be tightly packed, other¬ 
wise it sinks and draws the plants in by the 
roots. On top of each cask is a 4-inch layer 
of stable-manure, as well as three or four 
plants. The casks are -watered by means of 
the pipes down the centre of each, and once 
a week during the fruiting season it is well 
to water with liquid-manure. I 11 this in¬ 
stance the liquid-manure was made by placing 
in a bag about a quarter of a hundredweight 


of cow-manure, with a shovelful of soot, and 
a couple of shovels full of fowl-manure. The 
bag was then sot in a 20-gallon tub of water. 
The water can be used at the end of three 
days, and the tub refilled as required, but the 
bag need not be replenished for a month. 
Strawberries can be grown as above in any 
odd corner which tho sun can reach. The 
great thing is drainage, with frequent water¬ 
ings—say, four times a week, and the method 
explained will give excellent results.” 


SOME BRIGHTLY-COLOURED PEARS. 
Asa rule, one does not look for, nor expect, 
Pears to come under the same category as 
Apples in the matter of colour, but in their 
Bcason many Pears are attractive by the vari¬ 
able golden and russet lints which are de¬ 
veloped with ripeness. Some of our best 
Pears are entirely coated with russet or 
brawn, this being much enhanced when, as 
sometimes happens, there is a blend of crim¬ 
son with the russet. Durondeau i6 one of 
these whole-coloured bronzy Pears, which 
vary in their intensity from the influence of 
soil, stock, and other conditions. It is only 
on rare occasions, however, that crimson 
patches are found in this Pear. Of similar 
colour and shape is Beurre Bose, only this is a 
much larger Pear than Durondeau, nnd <4 
similar quality. Doyenne Boussoch, when it 
has reached maturity, may fairly bo claimed 
as one of the handsomest Pears we have. I Is 
shape is perfect, the size large, the skin pale 
yellow, and much freckled. At. the late 
R.H.S. Fruit Show one grower showed this 
Pear very highly coloured. I have never seen 
such handsome fruits of this Pear staged by 
any other grower. At the same show I 
noticed a highly-coloured dish of Louise 
Bonne of Jersey, with the characteristic 
freckles of deeper colour. This was without 
exception the handsomest exhibit 1 have ever 
seen of this variety. It came from Sitting- 
borne, famous for fine fruit. In Glou Mor- 
ceau thero may sometimes he some slight 
russet patches and pencillings, but more often 
a clear .skin is most familiar in this late Pear. 
This I also observed at the same show with 
quite a distinct and pretty flush of colour on 
its sun-exposed cheek. I have never seen this 
variety so attractively presented before. Tho 
Trout Pear, also known as Forelle, is so 
named because the numerous freckles which 
intersect, the dull crimson and yellow ground 
colour resemble a trout. There is beside its 
colour attraction a distinct musky flavour, 
which many appreciate. Seckle, one of the 
smallest of autumn Pears, in addition to its 
dull crimson flush, is also a Pear of the finest 
quality. In this respect it is superior to all 
save Doyenne du Comice. In August hand¬ 
some Pears arc found in Clapp’s Favourite, 
both as regards shape and colour, and the 
same may be said of Citron des Carmes, which 
also ripens in August. Sometimes the 
smaller Doyenne d’Ete gives fruit of hand¬ 
some colour, but these August Pears, when 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




















■12 


GARDENING ILL USTBATED. 


March 23, 1907 


they have developed these fine colour mark¬ 
ings, are treacherous, because so liable to be¬ 
come eleepy. Marguerite Marrillat is a Pear 
of large size, with crimeon and yellow-flushed 
skin, very attractive externally, but it has 
a short life, once it arrives at maturity. 
Souvenir du Congres, one of the largest 
autumn Pears, is also one of the handsomest. 
This only on rare occasions has crimson 
touches on its skin. Le Brun has a waxy 
golden skin, and is very distinct in shape. 
Beurre Spae, a little known Pear, which one 
seldom finds in catalogues, has a deeply- 
freckled skin that arrests attention. St. 
Luke, as shown at the R.H.S. show in 
October from Newport, was coated with deep 
russet. Beurre Jean Van Gecrt is a small 
fruit that becomes crimson flushed. Beurre 
Baltet pere often assumes a pale pinky flush 
on the sun-exposed side, the same Pear grown 
in shade comes of a pale pea-green colour. 
Beurre Clairgeau must not be omitted, be¬ 
cause in some seasons this assumes a rich 
crimson and brown colour. Beurre Capiau- 


APPLE ANNIE ELIZABETH. 
Whilst there seems to be no lack of seedling 
Apples—early and late, but late ones parti¬ 
cularly—it is very noticeable not only how 
few really are good, but how much they fall 
below in size, appearance, and excellence 
some of the older and long-grown varieties. 
Thus we find that superb Apple, Annie Eliza¬ 
beth, standing out amidst the rush of seed¬ 
lings, and old, late varieties as being so very 
superior, that it is needful to draw attention 
to the existence of that fine variety, not only 
iii relation to its wider cultivation, but also 
as a model for raisers when they have seed¬ 
lings of which they entertain high opinions. 
Not only do the fruits of Annie Elizabeth, as 
a rule, when well grown, run large and 
conical, but they arc very handsome and well 
coloured ; the flesh is firm and juicy, cooks 
as well as that of any Apple, and smaller 
fruits make, in March and April, capital des¬ 
sert samples. Generally this Apple is 
credited with being an uncertain cropper. Bo 



Hall a fine collection of Apples, amongst 
which was a dish named Minchall Crab. 
Such a sample of what is now an almost ob¬ 
solete variety had not before been seen, and, 
on closer examination, it was found the fruits 
were those of Annie Elizabeth. Mr. Sutton 
now informs me that the mistake as to the 
name arose from the tree carrying the fruit 
having for many years been heavily shaded 
by an overhanging Horse-Chcstnut-trec, 
hence the fruits lacked size and colour. 
Since the Chestnut-tree has been removed, 
the effect on the fruit has been remarkable, 
as now they are very fine and handsomely 
coloured. This incident illustrates the im¬ 
portance of exposing both trees and fruit fully 
to the sunshine. No very reliable informa¬ 
tion seems forthcoming as to the origin of 
the variety, or that of its odd name. Dr. 
Hogg mentions in the “Fruit Manual” that 
it was raised by Harrison and Sons, of 
Leicester, and obtained a F.C.C. from the 
Royal Horticultural Society in 1808. 

A. D. 


PEAR JOSEPHINE DE MALINES. 

As a Christmas and January Pear, it is 
questionable whether this variety can bo 
beaten. I always find it exceedingly good in 
all respects season after season. It is also 
a regular and free bearer, and the fruits con¬ 
tinue in good condition over a longer period 
than those of any other variety I know'. It is 
a hardy and vigorous grower, and may bo cul¬ 
tivated in any form; and where Pears are in 
demand at Christmas and the New Year, 
half-a-dozen trees, at the least, should be 
grown. At the present time I am adding to 
the number of this variety, so well does it 
succeed with me; and, although it does not 
keep till the period usually mentioned in 
fruit-tree lists, I consider it indispensable at 
the seasons quoted above. I once met with 
a large standard tree, which was carrying a 
full crop of very fine fruits—in fact, I do 
not remember ever having seen larger. On 
another occasion, when looking round a gar¬ 
den in Surrey, my attention was drawn to a 
bush-tree, some fourteen or fifteen feet in 
height, and as much through, which was 
literally loaded with fruit. I quote these two 
examples to show how well it succeeds with 
other growers, and I could give further in¬ 
stances if necessary. It is not by any means 
a new Pear, as it was raised in 1830 by a 
Major Esperen, and who is said to have 
named it in compliment to his wife. It is a 
greenish-yellow-skinncd fruit when ripe, of 
medium size, and well proportioned. The 
flesh is juicy, yellowish-white, with just a 
trace of rose-colour under the skin in some 
instances, and the flavour rich and sugary. 
It belongs to that class of Pears which 
have what is generally termed a rose-water 
flavour, which is much appreciated by many. 

Kent. 


Apple Annie Elizabeth From a photograph of a fruit sent by Mr. A. Dean, Kingston, Surrey. 


motit, a smaller fruit, bears some resemblance 
in its colour and qualities. They are, how¬ 
ever, both very useful Pears, quite deserving 
of some recognition. 

From the foregoing remarks it will be ob¬ 
served that though there would seem to be 
few Pears that have what may be described as 
brightly-coloured skins, there is actually a 
good assortment, extending over a long 
season. It is true some of those enumerated 
arc only on rare occasions found in this 
bright dress. Could it be possible for a col¬ 
lection embracing only these highly coloured 
fruits to be brought together into one group 
they would be a very interesting exhibit. 
Though Pears are to the fruit loving public 
and to growers so interesting, they are dis¬ 
appointing in most years, from one cause or 
another. Many fine fruHs have been lost this 
year from becoming what so many describe as 
sleepy. Uniformity of season is never a 
striking attribute of early and mid-season 
Pears. There is more dependence on late 
varieties, but even these require care, or 
they, too, will disappoint. 

Itood Ashton (Jar^n^ W. STR^JONELL 

Digitized by 


L,oogle 


far from that being the case, it is rather a 
regular cropper, simply because it never 
carries a heavy crop. That is, with Apples, 
a very desirable feature, and is of far greater 
value than is a variety which crops heavily 
now and then, but has too many lean years. 
The tree is a vigorous and somewhat erect 
grower. It may be that very erectness of 
habit, so conducive to free sap flow, tends to 
moderate cropping. But even with moderate 
crops the fruits are very fine, solid, clean, 
and well finished, hence, from a market point 
of view, they have a value second to no other 
variety. In some districts trees on the free 
stock, grown as standards, do well. That is 
seen in specially good form in an outlying 
orchard at Sherborne Castle, and from these 
trees Mr. Turton always obtains very hand¬ 
some fruits. I believe it was from similar 
trees that Mr. Barnes, of Bearwood Gardens, 
Wokingham, obtained the superb fruits he 
showed at the Temple at the end of May last 
—high tribute to the variety’s keeping 
qualities. 

Recently Mr. Sutton, of Chevening Park 
Gardens, Kent, showed at the Horticultural 


NOTES AND HE PLIES. 

Blossom prospects.— It is safe to predict 
ail abundant blossom among the stone fruits. 
Peaches, Nectarines, Apricots, Plums, and 
Cherries being well studded with fruit-buds. 
Apples and Pears appear to have abundance 
also, and it is to be hoped the months of 
March and April will be genial, so that a 
good percentage of blossom may set. The 
spelL of cold weather must have retarded the 
buds which unfold all too quickly in our 
fickle springs. Gooseberries and Currants 
promise well. For once the birds have left 
them unmolested, thanks to the precaution of 
syringing the bushes in advance with a dis¬ 
tasteful liquid. Strawberry plants have suf¬ 
fered somewhat from the severe frost and 
biting winds, but soon new growth will be 
apparent, and the fat crowns of last sum¬ 
mers ripening ought to produce a wealth of 
blossom-spikes later on. The tiny embyro 
fruits of the Fig are visible, but it is much too 
early to predict a full crop, as only a few 
years back an abundant promise was de¬ 
stroyed early in the month of April, so we 
must still protect these from severe frost in 
the colder counties and low lying moist situa¬ 
tions. Genial weather for the next couple of 
months will _tyj a boon to the fruit-grower. - 
Devonian.. 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 





Makch 23 , 1007 


GARDENING illustrated. 


43 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 

THE HEAVENLY HAMBOO (NANDINA 
DOME8TICA). 

Whilb at Pau (France) last niontb I was very struck 
with a low-growing shrub, which is cnlled there a 
Sirdioa. The berries and top of the leaves were a 
bright red, und were very effective. It seemed to 
*n>»- like a weed there, with no protection. Can 
tell xue if it will do in England out-of-doors? 
1 have some seeds, and intend to try and grow it. 
k«lo ihH find it in any nurseryman's catalogue. - 

[So valued is this little evergreen in Japan 
that there is hardly a garden without its 
Jump of “ Nandin,” and in many parts of 
China (now supposed to ho its true home) its 
beauty is quite as much esteemed, as is 
showu by its name of “ Heavenly Bamboo" 
among the common |>eople. At its best the 


recent winters; and, even in Switzerland, it 
has proved perfectly hardy when well pro¬ 
tected by snow. In our own country it grows 
fairly well in the milder parts of Scotland, 
but there and elsewhere if exposed to cold, or 
great changes of temperature, it is apt to 
cast its leaves in winter instead of remaining 
evergreen. The fact that it is mostly treated 
as a shade-loving plant not only increases the 
risk from cold but prevents the fruit setting, 
whereas if planted in a sheltered but fairly 
open spot, screened during summer from hot 
sun at middav. but otherwise freely exposed, 
the plant would gain in beauty and in vigour. 

It is nearly related to the Barberries. Like 
them, of somewhat slow growth, it must be 
planted where its 6hoots will not be cut back 
by cold, and where, when once established, it 
can remain, for though one of the easiest of 



Fruiting spray of the lleaxenly Kaml.oo (Nandina donir»ti<'»). 


Nandina, which was introduced as far back as 
1804, anci received an award of merit from the 
R.H.S. when shown by Messrs. Jas. Veitch 
and Sous on October 16th, 1897, is full of 
charm, its leaves cut into almost Fern¬ 
like segments, and showing fine variety of 
colour, with its graceful tufted growth and 
spikes of white flowers, and the clusters of 
rose-red fruits too rarely seen in this coun¬ 
try. For many year® kept almost entirely in 
our greenhouses, it has of late been used more 
freely in the garden, and in the open soils of 
the south and south-west has proved hardy 
save in severe winters, when the upper shoots 
are sometimes injured. The doubt as to har¬ 
diness has certainly hindered its wider use, 
and its precise degree of resistance is best 
shown by the fact that in China, when the 
wood is fully ripened, it withstands 15 dogs, 
to 30 dogs, of frost. In one of the nurseries 
near Paris several planU^ve long «to«l in 
Ihe open unprotected, 


shrubs to transplant, it is when the older 
stems rise from a thicket of young Bhoots that 
the Nandina is most beautiful, this occurring 
only in strong and well-established plants. 
When the stems become naked much of this 
charm is lost, until, by generous treatment 
and cutting back, new growths can be forced 
from the roots, whence they break freely 
when the plant is in robust health. 

The finest specimens in Europe are prob¬ 
ably to be seen at Pau, where special atten¬ 
tion has been given to the Nandina, and con¬ 
ditions seem to suit it as in few other spots. 
Graceful stems of 8 feet to 10 feet are there 
not uncommon, densely clothed with foliage 
which changes from a soft red when first ex¬ 
panding to lively green, with, finally, a bluish 
tinge in the mature leaves, while after the first 
touch of frost in autuniu they pass again from 
bronze to purple and from purple to crimson. 

When to these rich autumn tints are added 
the heavy crimson clusters of Pea-like ber¬ 


ries shining like wax, which remain un¬ 
touched by birds aud hang from November to 
March, the Nandina mny be well classed as 
one of the finest of evergreen shrubs. In Japan 
these clusters are much used for house deco¬ 
ration, and from want of Holly the British 
residents in the far En«t turn to them for 
Christmas decorations. Unfortunately with us, 
though the small creamy-white flowers are 
common enough, the fruits are rarely seen, 
and are pale red in colour. 

T he Nandina may he increased from seeds 
sown iu bottom heat during spring, their ger¬ 
mination being slow and irregular, and tha 
plants requiring to be wintered under glass 
for the first few years. Cuttings of the partly 
ripened shoots taken iu August and Septem¬ 
ber, will also root in sandy soil under a hand- 
light or in a cool greenhouse, if given time. 
Tne best effect is gained by planting a group 
in light soil, which, if poor, should he enriched 
by digging' iu peat, leaf mould, nnd rotten 
manure. In ground so prepared tlio growth 
will bo vigorous and the leaves ample and of 
rich colour, even though exposed to sunlight, 
which is necessary to well ripened wood. Jii 
dry seasons copious watering is necessary, a 
cool moist soil being essential to full luxuri 
ance. In the colder parts of the country 
north of the Thames valley, the Nandina may 
bo tried upon walls with protection in winter 
or grown in pots for the greenhouse, but 
under these conditions its charm is lost, ami 
no one familiar with the plant at its best 
would consider such trouble repaid. Several 
of our tree nurserymen catalogue it.] 


TENDER PLANTS IN THE SOUTH¬ 
WEST. 11. 

Ok the rarer Bellflowers, Campanula punc¬ 
tata, with large white drooping flowers, 
marked in the interior with little dots of 
purple, flowered well, as did C. G. F. Wilson 
and Mr. Archer Hind's C. milloides, an im¬ 
provement on the last-named, with larger and 
deeper coloured flowers. C.-carpathica pelvi- 
formis, rare in gardens, was beautiful with 
its flat, lavender flowers, and C. Vidali, from 
the Azores, perfected its long, upright Blinots 
of drooping, waxy-white blossoms. Car- 
michaelia flagelliformis had its flattened 
sprayB edged with thousands of tiny violet, 
and white flowers, and the New Zealand 
Broom, Notospartium Carmichaelia?, was 
covered with its soft pink blossoms. Clothra 
arborea, with its branching sprays of white 
Lily of the Valley-like flowers, was a charm¬ 
ing sight in August. The very rare pure 
white Cistus ladaniferun and its variety, C. 1. 
maculatus, for which C. cyprius is generally 
sent out, bloomed freely; Cliantlius puniceus 
and its white form were sheets of crimson 
and white in May; Codonopsis ovata bore its 
lavender, purple-centred, flowers in quan¬ 
tity; Convolvulus Cneorum and C. mauri- 
tanicus were beautiful when in bloom, and 
Crassula coccinea bore its flat, scented, crim¬ 
son flower-heads in profusion. Correa car- 
dinalis, the finest of the family, bore scarlet 
flowers on every spray in the spring. Dian- 
thus Emilie Pare, a most valuable plant, pro¬ 
duced its pale salmon blooms from March 
until August, and the rosy-salmon Elizabeth, 
the most beautiful of nil the Sweet Williams, 
flowered abundantly; D. alpinus nlbus also 
did well. The curious Digitalis ohscura, al¬ 
most unknown in gardens, bore its oraugc- 
chestnut flowers; Deutzia Kalmioeflora, the 
loveliest of the race, was a delightful picture 
in the spring; Dimorphotheca Ecklonis, 
which has been in the open, unprotected, for 
four years, blossomed lavishly, and Diosma 
ericoides, a fine bush, was attractive with its 
countless minute white flowers; Edwardsia 
(Sophora) grandiflora and E. microphylla, 
bush plants, flowered well, and Einbothriuui 
coecineum was a cloud of vermilion in May. 

Eryngium amethystinum, a rare species, 
for which E. Oliverianum is generally sent 
out, produced its steel-blue flower-heads, and 
Eriostemon neriifolius was covered with its 
starry white, pink-flushed blossoms. Fre- 
montia californica bore its cupped yellow 
flowers for many weeks. This shrub, when 
it attains large dimensions, has an unfor¬ 
tunate habit of dving off without any sp 

paro^rwtf: TO%MLttN9t5 frr,m 
■ URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 








4 1 


GARDENING ILL USTBATED. 


Jliacn 23, 1907 


South Africa, though growing well, has not 
yet flowered, and, 1 believe, has not bloomed 
in England up to the present. The prostrate 
Fuchsia procumbens has an attractive au¬ 
tumnal season when set with its crimson 
fruits ; and the Mexican F. syringseflora is 
pretty when boaring^its flat heads of pink 
blossoms. Gazania longiscnpa, G. grandi- 
flora, and G. Pompeyana pass through the 
winter unprotected ; Genista monosperma, 
from Morocco, said to be flowerless in Eng¬ 
land, blossomed, and Gerbera Jamesoni 
bloomed from June to November. Hedychium 
Gardneriauum threw up over a dozen fine 
flower-spikes in September, and the Poppy¬ 
like Hunncmannia fumarirefolia, quite hardy 
in the open, was bright with its yellow 
flowers for some weks, while the Australian 
Ilnkca suaveolens perfected its ivory-white 
blossoms in September. Incarvillea grandi- 
Jlora proved a finer flower than I. Delavayi, 
and Indigofera decora alba, rarely Been in 
the open, produced its pretty white Pea-like 
blooms. Of the Kniphofias, K. grandis, K. 
Eachcsis, and K. Northim have been fine. 
Jaborosa integrifolia, from Buenos Ayres, 
very rare in cultivation, bore numbers of its 
white fragrant flowers, and ha.s spread 
rapidly. Lapagerias, on a shady north wall, 
flowered well in November ; Lagunaria Pater- 
soni, a shrub from Norfolk Island, practically 
unknown in England, produced its large 
white flowers; Lavatera maritima bicolor, 
generally grown as L. assurgentiflora in the 
south-west, bos grown into a huge shrub, and 
flowers until Christmas. The Lion's-tail 
(Leonotis Leonurus) was a glorious sight in 
September, the plant being covered with 
great whorls of orange-scarlet flowers ; Lep- 
tospermum scopariuin was crowded with its 
small white blossoms ; Linioniastrum Guyoni- 
ununi, from the negihbourhood of Biskra, not 
in commerce, produced its rosy-pink flovver- 
heads, and Lithospermum rosmarinifolium, 
nil improvement on L. prostratum, perfected 
its bluo flowers as early as February. Mande- 
villa suaveolens, from Buenos Ayres, climb¬ 
ing over a balcony, bore its clusters of large 
white perfumed blossoms profusely in 
August ; Malvastrum lateritium, a South 
American plant, displayed its salmon-pink, 
carmine-centred flowers ; Microrneria greeca, 
a curious and very uncommon sub-shrub with 
foliage that when rubbed gives forth an 
aroma almost as pungent as sal-volatile, bore 
its pink flowers in August; Mimulus cardi- 
nalis, 4 feet in height, produced its vermilion 
blossoms ; Myoporum ltetum, from Australia, 
with leaves spotted with innumerable trans¬ 
parent dots, flowered and fruited; and the 
newly-introduced M. rosmarinifolium, a 
creeping shrub that should prove valuable for 
the rock garden, was covered with small 
white flowers, and in May the splendid New 
Zealand Forget-me-not (Myosotidium nobile) 
displayed its great blue flower-beads. Mazus 
pumilio, a dwarf Australian plant bearing 
purple blossoms, is seldom seen, but is a 
pretty thing. Neviusia alabamensis is a rare 
shrub, producing flowers devoid of petals, but 
having crowded white stamens. When at its 
best it has a pretty effect, and has been styled 
the Alabama Snow W reath. 

Olearia insignis, the queen of the Daisy- 
bushes, produced a single flower the year 
after its importation from New Zealand, and 
O. nitida was a sheet of white with its 
crowded Hawthorn-like flowers. Onosma 
Boiirgiri flowered well, and Osteomeles 
unthvllidifolia, from the Pacific Islands, was 
beautiful with its pure white flower-clusters, 
while Ostrowskia magnifica and its white 
form bore their splendid great Campanula- 
like blossoms in the early summer. The 
Shamrock Pea (Parochaetus communis) from 
the Himalayas, was lovely in the late autumn, 
a sloping bank being entirely covered with its 
sky-blue flowers ; Perovvskia atriplicifolia, 
with its long, branching, lavender flower- 
shoots, was charming in August; Polygala 
Balmaisiana, from South Africa, bore its 
purple Pea-like flowers freely, and Poly¬ 
gonum enpitatum, classed by some as an 
annual, is here a profusely-flowering peren¬ 
nial. Pentstemon tubiflorus, a little-known 
species, is a pretty plant, 3 feet in height, 
with pure white flowers. Rhodostachys 
nndina. though growing well, has not yet 
flowered ; Romno i yir>Coulteri ha.4 been splen- 

Co gle 


did, and bloomed abundantly ; and of Roses 
the yellow R. zanthinu, or Eoae, and the 
climbing R. laevigata, with single white 
flowers, nearly 6 inches across, have been 
noteworthy. Rehmannia angulata bloomed 
bountifully, and appears perfectly hardy. 
Salvia leucantha, a tender Mexican plant, 
came through last winter, and this summer 
perfected its long flower-shoots, resembling 
violet and white plush ; and S. azurea grandi- 
flora, better known as S. Piteheri, was u 
cloud of deep blue in October, while in the 
summer the splendid 8. dichroa, from the 
Atlas Mountains, was a pyramid of lavender- 
purple and white over 8 feet in height. 
Solanum avicularc bore its purple, golden- 
centred flowers, followed by hundreds of 
egg-shaped yellow fruits. Sollya hetero- 
phylla, from Australia, retained its drooping 
blue flowers until October; Sutherlandia 
frutescens, from the Cape, was a sheet of 
crimson, and Tulbaghia violacea bore its 
pretty heliotrope flower-scapes. Veronica 
Hulkeana was a cloud of lavender at the 
close of May; Westringia triphylla, from 
Australia, bore its starry white flowers, and 
the South African Witsenia corymbosa and 
the Himalayan Wulfenia Amherstiana Uieir 
blue blossoms. 8. W. Fitzherbert. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

The Creeping Winter Green (Guultheria 
procumbens).—This is a member of the great 
Heath family, to which, dissimilar though 
they be to an ordinary observer, the Rhodo¬ 
dendrons belong. Rhododendrons are some¬ 
times grown as standards, and, when this is 
the case, a plant suitable for carpeting the 
ground is often desired. Such an one is this 
Gaultlieria, a delightful little creeping shrub 
whose branches are furnished with neat shin¬ 
ing green leaves, which, in winter, take on a 
bronzy hue. The beauty of the plant is at 
that season greatly enhanced by the little 
glowing red berries, which retain their fresh¬ 
ness and brilliancy a considerable time. Be¬ 
side such a position as that above suggested, 
it is a delightful little shrub for the cool, 
moist parts of rockwork, as under such con¬ 
ditions it is quite at borne. Peaty soil is by 
no means absolutely necessary to its well¬ 
doing, therefore it may be used as a carjiet- 
ing subject for plants other than Rhododen 
drons. I have seen it in good condition 
covering the ground beneath the Japanese 
Witch Hazel (Hamamelis arborea), and a 
very pretty winter picture resulted therefrom. 
A second species, G. Shallon, is a more vigor¬ 
ous grower, at times exceeding a yard in 
height. Given a fairly moist soil, especially 
if it contains a moderate amount of vegetable 
matter, this Gaultlieria will grow well under 
the shade of trees. It is sometimes used for 
covert planting, the berries being much 
sought after by game.—X. 

Creeping plants injured by galvanised 
Wire (M. It .).—The galvanised wire fencing 
is the cause of the injury to your various 
creepers. The acid used in the galvanising 
causes the shoots to die off in the w f ny yours 
have done, and the only thing you can do is 
to cover the wire with two or three coate of 
good paint. This will prevent any injury 
being done. 


GARDEN PESTS AND FRIENDS. 

. NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Snake millipedes. —Kindly let me know the 
name of the enclosed grubs? My garden is fairly 
eaten up with them. Though 1 kill all that are 
turned up in the course of working, they seem to be 
very much on the increase.—T homas C'i.arkf.. 

[The creatures infesting your garden arc 
snake millipedes (Julus terrestris). They 
are most annoying pests, as they ennnot be 
destroyed by any ordinary insecticide. See 
my reply to “ Ballycastle ” in this number of 
Gardening Illustrated. Where you can 
do so without injury to plants watering thor¬ 
oughly with boiling water will kill them.— 

G. S.*S.] 

Name of grub —I would he glad to know whether 
the accompanying grub is injurious, and what its 
name is?—B allvcasti.b. 

[The grub you enclosed was so smashed in 
the post, being unprotected by any box, that 


it is impossible to say more as regards its 
name than that it was one of the millipedes, 
probably belonging to the genus Polydesmue. 
These creatures are usually found among 
dead leaves, rubbish, and decaying vegetable 
matter, where they are harmless, but some- 
times they attack the collar and roots of 
plants, and are the cause of much injury to 
them. It is almost impossible to kilt milli¬ 
pedes with insecticides when they are infest¬ 
ing plants without injuring the latter. They 
may be trapped by laying small pieces of 
hoard, or turf, bricks, slates, or tiles near 
the plants they are attacking, as they are 
fond of creeping under such things for shelter. 
Or they may he trapped by burying small 
slices of Mangels, Turnips, Potatoes, etc., 
just below the surface of the soil, and close to 
the plants. Both kinds of traps should be ex¬ 
amined every morning.—G. 8. S.] 

Violets diseased —I should be glad if you would 
tell me what you think is the cause of my Marie 
Louise Violets going oil like the enclosed plant. Most 
of them are all right, but some have gone, as you 
see. 1 follow the usual routine of culture, and frame 
them in September.—J. K. 

-I should be obliged if you will tell me what is 

the cause of the enclosed Violet root dying in th< 
manner it has? 1 have a frame, 20 feet long, divided 
into four lights, with four varieties of Violets put 
down last October on a very gentle hotbed, kept open 
whenever frost is not severe. The varieties are La 
France, Comte de Brazza, Burma de Toulouse, and 
Neapolitan. The variety in question is Comte de 
Brazza, and it has never gruwu since planted. The 
others have all done well up to the present, but now 
Neapolitan is going in the same way very rapidh, 
with all the blooms in bud. The two do not happen to 
be uext each other in the frame. What can be done 
to save the plants? The frame faces south-west.— 
W. Thomson. 

[Your Violets have been attacked by the 
Violet fungus (Cercospora violas). The best 
thing you can do is to pick off all the infested 
leaves and burn them, and if any of the 
plants are very had then pull such out. 
If the disease reappears spray all the plants 
with diluted Bordeaux mixture as soon as you 
notice it, and every fortnight while there arc 
any signs of it. It is by no means an un¬ 
common pest, as we have had bad examples 
frequently during the past season.] 

The Carnation ” spot." — I will be obliged to 
you if you can tell me what the spots are ou the 
leaves of Carnation 1 send, and the remedy? The 
plants are in a cold-house, but during the severe 
Frosts 1 had an oil stove put in, which injured one or 
two things, but these plants are lurge and healthy. - 
11., Kent. 

[Your plants have been attacked by what is 
known os “ spot.” Keep them in a green¬ 
house or similar structure, where a little fire- 
heat can be turned on during wet or foggy 
days, so as to dispel superfluous moisture. In 
a house with a little heat the plants are not 
likely to keep nearly so wet. In a cold house 
it is next to impossible to keep the Grass dry, 
consequently the plants are laden with mois¬ 
ture day and night a sure forerunner of this 
dreaded disease. Do not water until really 
necessary, and then take every care that the 
foliage is not wetted in the operation, using 
a long-spouted small can for the work. Cut 
off the worst patches and then dust the entire 
stock with a mixture of soot and sulphur, 
washing this off after a couple of days, laying 
the plants on their side, and syringing with 
clean water, repeating the dose twice, or even 
thrice. We have known this to he effectual 
in many cases. Give the plants abundance of 
ventilation on fine days, and the night tem¬ 
perature should he from 40 degs. to 50 degs.. 
according to the weather. Place the plants 
in the lightest position, and within 2 feet of 
the glass roof, if possible, allowing plenty of 
space between each one, overcrowding being 
another cause of Carnations going wrong in 
the way yours have done.] 

Cineraria leaves unhealthy. I enclose two 
leaves for your inspection, find shall be glad to know 
the cause of the pest, and how I can get rid of it.- 
J. A. D. 

[Y’our Cinerarias have been attacked by the 
grubs of the Marguerite Daisy-fly. When 
many leaves are attacked the plants are ren¬ 
dered very unsightly, and also suffer in 
health. The only way to destroy the insect 
is to cut off the infested leaves, and burn 
them, or if the attack has just commenced to 
pinch the leaves where the grubs are. Syring¬ 
ing with an insecticide is of no use, as it 
would not. touch the gruhs ; hut if applied in 
time it might present the flics laying their 

eggs on the leave^3 |[_|_||^0IS AT 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



MAr.cn 23, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


45 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

ROSES. 

ROSE MRS. CONWAY JONES. 

This cannot be described as one of the first- 
eloss Roses, yet it is a useful sort of a 
creamy-white colour. When the late Henry 
Bennett introduced Viscountess Folkestone, 
many thought we had reached the climax of 
that particular style, but since its introduc¬ 
tion there have appeared one or two formid¬ 
able rivals to it. One is the Rose under 
notice. The petals of this variety are of 
great size and substance, and, as the illustra¬ 


ROSES UNDER GLASS. 

There is something delightful about a Rcse- 
I house in March, especially if it contains a 
goodly variety of sorts. It has been my privi¬ 
lege to inspect a house where a large collec¬ 
tion is grown, and, of course, many tribes and 
varieties find a place, from the tiny Polyantha 
Rose to the magnificent Hv'brid Tea. I love 
to see the various Rambler Roses as they un¬ 
fold their blooms, and it shows one what these 
Roses can do. Some of them, although called 
Rambler, will blossom right down to the base 
of the plant, and, remembering this, one can 
I have in small pots quite an interesting collec- 
I tion that is most useful for table and other 
I decorations. I believe the development of the 



Rode Mrs. Conway Jones. From a photograph by Jas. E. Tyler, llalstcad, Essex. 


tion shows, it is very full. The growth is 
vigorous, fitting it for a bed or border among 
such strong eorta as the variety already 
named. It was raised and introduced by 
Messrs. A. Dickson and Sons in 1904. 
Dorothy is another variety that may be 
grouped with the Viscountess Folkestone 
tribe, and a pretty Rose it is, with a high 
pointed centre ; an excellent sort for mass¬ 
ing in beds and also good for pot work. And 
yet another should be mentioned here. It is 
a Rose with a great future. I refer to Koni- 


gin Carola. There is no Rose with such a 
beautiful petal, and the size is marvellous. 
It is a cross between Caroline Testout and 
Viscountess Folkestone and is a^_perfect 
blending of the two. f ^ 


,g|t* 3A 


Rambler Kuse as a pot plant is but in 
its infancy. This season will see some mar¬ 
vellous specimens put on the market. I see 
no reason why huge specimens should not be 
produced in large tubs something like the 
giants that were exhibited some thirty years 
ago, only that instead of being such sorts as 
Celine Forestier and Charles Lawson they 
will be Lady Gay, Hiawatha, Blush Rambler, 
Trier, etc. 

It may be asked how best to commence for 
such plants, and I reply purchase well-grown 
pot stuff in 8-inch pots. Flower them the 
first season, then grow on, endeavouring os 
much as possible to secure a vigorous growth. 
It is essential in order to have well-flowered 
specimens to have the growths thoroughly 


matured, and this can be done by placing the 
plants in the summer in front of a greenhouse 
facing south, tying the growths up against the 
glass. There must always be a slow, steady 
growth, so that in order to have good speci¬ 
mens in bloom in May the plants should be 
pruned and started in January. 

Hybrid Teas, Teas, and H.P.’s now showing 
bud must receive ample nourishment. They 
can take liquid-manure twice a week if the 
weather has been very bright. I would ad 
vise liberal doses of liquid made from animal 
manure and soot. Cow and sheep-manure 
are very valuable for this purpose, and it is 
well to give the plants a change each week. 
Where planted out in beds the surface should 
receive a dusting over of fine bone-meal some 
time prior to this, and if the plants are well 
established, 2 inches or 3 inches of cow-manure 
may be applied. The ammonia arising from 
this will aid the leaf growth wonderfully. 
Diluted sewage manure is being largely used 
by some growers with excellent results. 
Where Roses are old and vigorous they can 
take a much larger amount of manure than is 
generally supposed, but those plants with few 
roots are better without any. 

Fresh batches of plants can still be intro¬ 
duced into the Rose-house, and by so doing a 
continuous display is afforded. Keep the 
syringe going freely on bright mornings 
among the plants just starting, but do not 
syringe much when the foliage has developed. 
The atmosphere should be humid, or trouble 
will arise from red-spider. Do not give air 
suddenly, because the sun raises the tempera¬ 
ture up to 75 degs. and 80 degs. This will do 
no harm, whereas the air would cause con¬ 
siderable mischief in starting mildew. The 
more steadily Roses are grown from the first 
the less liable are they to mildew. The 
foliage becomes hardened, and much better 
enabled to resist the fungus. 

Plants still outside may be pruned and 
placed in cold pits, to be afterwards taken to 
the greenhouse.. or allowed to remain in the 
pits. If these pits are fairly deep, and facing 
south, splendid Roses can be had without arti¬ 
ficial heat. When the sun gains power, and 
the plants are in leaf, a slight syringing over¬ 
head, followed by closing the lights, will keep 
the plants in a nice condition during the night. 
This would, of course, be during April and 
early May. I like to close up about 3.30 p.m. 
on fine days. A mist immediately settles on 
the glass, which prevents any injury from the 
sun’s rays. Roses thus grown are at least a 
month earlier than the outdoor plants. Those 
plants potted up last October make good 
material for such work. Rosa. 


Pruning various Roses (IF. A. Topping).— 
Cheshunt Hybrid and William Allen Richardson 
. .'should be treated as pillar Roses, unless your trees 
are standards— i.e., on stems. We assume, however, 
they are what are known as dwarf or bush Roses. 
Cheshunt Hybrid usually produces several shoots, 
n feet to 4 feet long, in the season. These should be 
retained nearly full length, if the wood is hard and 
not pithy. Any small shoots that spring out from 
older growths are termed “ laterals.” These should 
be cut back to two or three eyes. If you examiue a 
shoot you will soon observe these “ eyes " or buds, 
and it is from these that the growths proceed which 
bear the blossoms. Should you be unable to train 
the two sorts as pillars, which means tying them 
loosely to a 5 feet or 6 feet stake, then treat them 
as big bushes, and allow the growths to bend over 
and grow as they like. Prince C. de Rohan may 
have its long growths arched over to each other like 
half-hoops, and the smaller wood pruned back to two 
or three eyes, or you could treat this variety as ad¬ 
vised for the other two. La France succeeds best if 
the small shoots are taken away, or, at least, their 
number reduced; but retain the longer annual 
growths, say, 12 inches to 15 inches in length. Cut 
hack the best shoots of Dupuy Jnrnain to about 
3 inches or 4 inches of their base; small, thin shoots 
cut back to one or two eyes from their base. If 
there are any long growths that were produced last 
season, you would do well to preserve these their full 
length. You will obtain bloom all over the growth, 
and as soon as the blossoms fall the shoot may be 
j cut away in order to make more room. 

Monthly Roses for edging a grave (Rose 
Hedge ).—As you desire later on to have a Rose- 
hedge, we think you could not plant a better variety 
than Mine. Laurette Messimy or the old blush 
China Rose. Beth of these varieties are very per¬ 
petual in flowering. As you cannot plant them out 
yet, you should procure them in 5-inch pots, and 
place the plants round the grave, set in holes about 
the depth of the pot, the latter covered with the 
soil. They could thus remain until the autumn, if 
you preferred. Doubtless, most of the large Rose 
I nurserymen would keep these plants in pots, and we 
would refer you to our advertising columns for the 
information where to procure. 











46 


GARDENING ILL UNIRATED. 


March 23, 1907 


TEA ROSE LENA. 

The raisers of this exquisite Rose claim that 
it is a great advance on Beryl, and this is a 
perfectly just claim. It is what one might 
term a perfected W. A. Richardson. The 
form is very regular, the buds long, and often 
produced seven to nine on a spray. The 
growth is not climbing, but it appears to be a 
vigorous grower. I have not vet proved the 
variety outdoors, but under glass it has ex¬ 
ceeded my expectations. I do not say it is a 
show bloom by any means, but it cornea mid¬ 
way between a show bloom and a button hole 
variety. The colour is a glowing apricot, 
with a primrose white edging to petals as the 
blossoms ago. Beryl is very beautiful, but it 
is rather small, so that I quite expect Lena 
will entirely eclipse that variety. Lena has a 
resemblance to a Rose sent out by a conti¬ 
nental raiser a year or two ago. It was named 
Berthe de Bary de Zahony, but I think it is 
superior to this latter, although this is a good 
Rose. What with these two, and the delight¬ 
ful Perle des Jaimes, which aeems to be a 
vivid golden-orange form of Mme. Falcot, and 
that superb semi-climber, Mme. Hector Leuil- 
liot, we have a quartette of really splendid 
golden yellow Roses. All who value Roses of 
this colour should plant the four sorts in a 
group, taking care to arrange for Mme. H. 
Leuilliot to be in the centre. They make I 
glorious standards and half-standards, but are I 
rather tender, so would need a very sheltered 
spot if thus grown. Rosa. 


NOTES AND IfEPLIES. 

Rose Austrian Yellow- Would you kindly toll 
me how to treat the Rose Austrian Yellow just 
planted? The hush is a strong one, having about a 
dozen shoots .'10 inches long. I have looked through 
my GARDENiNa Illustrated for some months back, 
but can find no mention of the Rose.— U. J. L. 

[This charming single Rose is one of the 
most precious links with the past that we 
possess. It is supposed to have been in cul¬ 
tivation as far back as the year 1590, and its 
bright golden yellow colour makes it a 
favourite even to-day. The line plant that 
you have just planted should be left un¬ 
touched this season, for this Rose fesents 
pruning at any time. After flowering in June 
it might be advisable to cut bock one or two 
of the growths rather hard, say to 2 inches 
of their base, and then von would keep the 
plant fairly bushy. This should always bo 
done with this type of Rose when they have a 
tendency to become too straggling. These 
charming Austrian Briers are seen to great 
advantage when used as hedge plants. They 
may also be incorporated with the Penzance 
Hybrid Briers, thus imparting a colour of 
which these pretty hybrids are deficient. The 
Copper Austrian is unique among single 
Roses, the rich terra-cotta colour being mar¬ 
vellous in its brilliancy. It is supposed to be 
a sport from the Austrian Yellow. There is 
a beautiful hybrid Brier named Harrisoni, 
which bears canary-yellow, semi-double 
flowers, and the Persian Yellow, which, 
perhaps, is the deepest yellow Rose we 
possess. Add to these that delightful Rose 
Gottfreid Keller, and the Yellow Scotch Rose, 
and you will possess a half-dozen charming 
varieties that would blend well together.] 

Climbing Tea Roses for greenhouse —Will 
you kindly toll me which is the best variety of 
climbing Tea Rose to grow in a heated greenhouse? 
F have heard of one called The Bride. Is this a 
free-flowering variety, and what is the best time to 
plant? I want a tree which will flower the best part 
of the year. Other greenhouse plants arc kept in 
same house.—If. (J. C. 

(In small greenhouses amateurs frequently 
make the mistake of planting fast-growing 
Ruses of the Mareehal Niel type that blossom 
hut. once in the year. To plant those sorts 
that would really be best one must needs ex¬ 
ercise some amount of patience whilst they 
nre growing. Take, for instance, the variety 
you mention, The Bride. It is a lovely Rose, 
but if you tried to procure a plant with 
growths more than 2 feet to 3 feet long you 
could not do so, therefore this variety would 
lie some considerable time ere it reached the 
roof or covered a back wall, should this be 
the position intended for it. The best thing 
to do is to procure an extra sized bush plant 
in a 24 sized pot. Plant this in a larger 
pot. or small tub, and place on the stage so 
that its growths ar<W»ar_the roof.l U will 

Digitized by VjOOv 1C 


then gradually spread outward and upward, 
and in two or three yenrs make a considerable 
show. You will obtain a continuous supply 
of blossom from this type of Rose. Of course, 
such a Rose will grow well enough planted in 
a good border at the foot of a wall in the 
greenhouse, or against one of the pillars, blit 
it must have plenty of light, and should not 
bo shaded by the other occupants of the struc¬ 
ture. There is an alternative plan, and that 
is of planting a standard of the same Rose. 
This would bring the growths up near the 
roof, but standards often fail. A good border 
must be prepared whether a standard or bush 
is planted, if free growtli lie desired. A very 
moderate amount of priming should be 
adopted for the first two or three years. Wo 
have had the old Rose Niphetos growing 
under glass trained to a wall yielding hun¬ 
dreds of lovely snowy blossoms, and there are 
numbers of Roses, such as Catherine Merinet, 
Kaverin Augusta Victoria, Lady Battersea, 
Richmond, Pharisaer, Anna Ollivier, Perle 
dea Jardins, Sunset, Sunrise, Mme. Abel 
Chatenay, etc., that would give a free and 
continuous supply of splendid buds and blos¬ 
soms. A good time to plant would be the 
present, but the plant should he one grown in 
a pot. This can be procured in a dormant 
state.] 

Rose name wanted- --He Rose name wanted, in 
your issue for March 9th, if “ C. V." will kindly 
give his address, with a few particulars as to where 
he saw the Rose in question, 1 may perhaps be able 
to trace it and name it for him, or if he comes again 
to Cadennbbia this season he may call at my nursery, 
and t will very likely be able to make the matter- 
clear for him.— J. Hciiomelhoud, Cadennbbia. 


CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

SEASONABLE HINTS. 

The earliest struck plants are now in cold 
frames, and, although we have had several 
severe frosts of Into, it has not been a very 
difficult matter to exclude them from those 
structures. There is no hotter position for 
the young plants for two or three mouths at 
least than the cold frames, as these arc #50 
easily managed. For a time the plants may 
be arranged close together, a* this enables the 
grower to economise space, which is so valu¬ 
able at this period. Later on, when more 
genial weather prevails, and severe frosts are 
not likely to come, the young plants should 
be spaced out in the cold frames, *>0 that air 
may circulate freely between them, and in 
this way give further encouragement to the 
development of sturdy young plants. Even 
at this period the temperature in the cold 
frames may rise very considerably in the 
course of a single day. We have hud rather 
extraordinary experiences during the bust few 
days. On one day a dense fog made it neces- 
sary to carefully mat up the frames. On the 
succeeding day. after a very severe frost 
during the previous night and early morning, 
the sun shone brilliantly all day, with the 
result that air had to be admitted. There 
have been periods when the temperature has 
risen very considerably, necessitating the ad¬ 
mission of an abundance of air to keep the 
soil from drying prematurely, and also to pre¬ 
vent the young plants getting drawn. Growers 
will see, therefore, how little reliance con be 
placed on any regular method of culture at 
this season. Pay particular attention to 
watering. The small quantity of soil in the 
small pots in which the plants arc now grow¬ 
ing quickly dries when the sun is on the glass, 
and unless the grower examines his plants 
from time to time during the day, the moisture 
will soon evaporate, and the plants suffer in 
consequence. 

From March onwards it is the custom to 
deal with plants that require to be stopped in 
order to ensure the buds developing within a 
given period in August. In almost every in¬ 
stance when plants are stopped in March they 
are so treated to retain second crmvn-buds in 
August. This seems a long way to look 
ahead, yet, to have many varieties at their 
best, when the shows come round, or when 
the recognised flowering period has arrived, 
it is of the highest importance to deal with 
the plants in the manner just suggested. A 
few sorts that do well from a March 
pinching and a second crown-bud selection 
are the following: — Japanese: General 


Hutton, Mrs. A. II. Lee. Mrs. A. T. 
Miller, Maud du Cress, Valerie Green- 
ham. Mr6. F. W. Vallis, Mrs. Eric Crosslev, 
E. J. Brooks, Mrs. R. C. Pulling and its 
sport li. Kenyon. George Lawrence, Norman 
Davis, Mrs. C. Beckett, Miss Codrington, 
British Empire, Lord Ludlow. Mary Ann 
Pockett, Mme. G. Nagelmacker, Miss Mildred 
Ware and its sports Mrs. J. Hadaway and 
Tom King. Lady Mary Conyers, Mary Inglis, 
Mrs. Barkley, W. A. Etheringtou, and Miss 
Kathleen Stoop. The foregoing varieties will 
give an indication of the type of plant that re¬ 
quires to be taken in hand just now, and those 
growers whpso plants are nicely established 
have reason to congratulate themselves upon 
the fact, as such plants more readily re¬ 
spond with new growths than those recently 
repotted. 1 prefer to pinch the plants about 
ten days more or less—before they are re¬ 
potted. The most suitable time to give young 
plants their first shift is just as the new 
lateral growths are being developed. It is a 
great mistake to repot and pinch plants at 
one and the same time. 

Late-flowering decorative and other Chrys¬ 
anthemums may be propagated with consider 
able advantage at this period. There should 
now be an abundance of suitable cuttings, 
and u.s these are of recent development, and 
particularly healthy, the rooting should bo 
considerably facilitated. 

The early-flowering Chrysanthemums take 
very kindly to a March propagation, and ap¬ 
pear to develop plants of a beautiful kind. 
Invariably they are sturdy and bushy from 
this later propagation, and open their buds 
kindly when the cooler autumn weather is 
with us. The popularity of the Japanese 
kinds in more recent years has banished to 
some extent the charming little Pompons 
which are very dainty in appearance, the 
habit lieing sturdy and branching, the growths 
smolliered with dense, compact, little blos¬ 
soms of various sizes, ami in ('harming 
variety. The Pompons stand the weather re¬ 
markably well, and in town and suburban 
gardens are of especial value. Late-flowering 
single kinds are very attractive. This type of 
the Chrysanthemum is invaluable in Decem¬ 
ber, and there are many excellent kinds 
which, if the outings he inserted at the pre¬ 
sent time, will make the greenhouse or con¬ 
servatory gay in the early winter months. 
The same remarks apply to the quaint and 
curious thread-pc tailed and spidery forms, 
which are very useful in December. 

EG. 

NOTES AND REPLIES. 
Chrysanthemums and rabbits. T hose of 
your readers whose lawns and flower-borders 
are open to rabbits will (hi well to hesitate 
before planting Chrysanthemums in such 
borders unless provision is made for protect¬ 
ing them with wire netting. The presence of 
this on the lawn enclosing flowering plants 
is certainly not pleasing, and I prefer to dis¬ 
pense with plants that are subject to such 
molestation than to have to use netting. 
Especially is this precaution necessary when 
new and expensive kinds have been purchased 
and prepared for outdoor planting, for if un¬ 
protected for one night only the risk of per¬ 
manent injury is invited. There nre no more 
ornamental or effective plants than the 
summer and autumn flowering Chrysanthe¬ 
mums when their growtli is normal, the right 
kinds chosen, and they are well treated. 
There is certainly nothing more disappointing 
than to find, after all one’s efforts and outlay, 
that on the morning following the planting 
out, all, or nearly all. have been eaten off 
close down to the soil. There are ninny plants 
that can be grown in rabbit-infested borders, 
and there are, on the other hand, some 
that it is impossible to establish permanently. 
Carnations, Pinks, and Phloxes (herbaceous) 
may be mentioned as being unsafe in such 
positions. Sometimes, though not always, 
Wallflowers fall a prey to tlie rabbit. It 
would be possible to grow Chrysanthemums in 
large tubs, such as we have seen at Gunners- 
bury House, even in rabbit-infested areas, 
because the yojung plants would bo well raised 
off the ground, and it twould seem that only 
when young and lender are< ithev .relished atf 
food. \V. 8. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



Marcii 23, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


47 


OUTDOOR PLANT8. 

CHRYSANTHEMUM MAXIMUM. 

Oub gardens to-day contain very few plants 
of a perennial nature possessing greater value 
or merit than the above-named Chrysanthe¬ 
mum. with which, for present purposes, we 
may associate not only the many varieties 
which of late years have been introduced, but 
those larger and coarser growing and later 
flowering kinds that are more nearly related 


grown from seed. To this statement the very 
important addition of the words, “ in 
America,” are quite necessary. In England 
i it is by no means generally the case, though 
I in a year like 1906 the ordinary seedling 
forme will flower at about six months old. 
But the flowering is by no means good, or 
even representative of the established 
examples of these plants which are capable 
of producing, and, indeed, do produce, whole 
sheaves of blossoms in their season. There 
is an especial value in the raising of 



Chrysanthemum maximum Win. Robinson. From a photograph in Messrs. Wallace's nursery 

at Colchester. 


to Chrysanthemum latifolium. Some of these 
—probably all of them, for aught I know—have 
been given during recent years the additional, 
and, to many gardeners, not very intelligible 
name of “ Shasta Daisy ” by our gardening 
friends on the other 6ide of the Atlantic. A 
new name is, in some instances, given with a 
view to re-popularise a highly popular group 
of flowering plants, and, it often fails in its 
object by the very confusion it creates. The 
only special claim that I have seen attached 
to the so-called “Shasta Daisy” is that the 
plants will flower in so ^months v|hen 




seedlings of these plants. The gardener may 
with advantage raise seedlings each year, 
and in a general way the seedlings will be 
more vigorous than divided plants, though, 
perhaps, at the same time less uniform in 
character and flowering. It is remarkable to 
what size a self-sown seedling of one of these 
plants will attain in a few months, and I have 
known the seedlings reach to 15 inches or 
18 inches through the leaf-tufts long before 
the plants are six months old. The fact may 
serve to illustrate how accommodating and 
easily grown are tlmse things, and, probably, 


few plants can equal them in this respect. 
This strong-growing and vigorous-rooting 
plant cannot, however, be left indefinitely in 
any one position in the garden and still re¬ 
main a success. In many gardens annual 
division may be indulged in, and in others 
periodical division and replanting every second 
or third year may suffice. Where division is 
adopted, it will be found that early spring is 
much the best time, and that small portions, 
or those of two or three crowns apiece, are to 
be preferred. By planting a dozen of such 
pieces 9 inches asunder a group of plants will 
be formed capable of giving a very fine result 
at flowering time. Any good garden soil will 
grow this plant to perfection. 

During recent years, quite a large number 
of new varieties has been raised, and theso 
include those with laciniated or forked florets, 
which give a lighter and more elegant bearing 
to the flowers. With the exception of tho 
C. latifolium varieties, which bloom later in 
the summer— i.e., about August, and even 
later than this—the flowering period is during 
June and July, and at all seasons the blooms 
are much valued for cutting. 

The following are some of the most im¬ 
portant of those now in cultivation : — 

C. maximum elegans. — Flower - heads 
3 inches across, on long stems, florets recur¬ 
ving. A pretty and free-flowering variety. 

C. m. G. II. Sage.—T his is one of the 
laciniate-petalled varieties, the petals being 
deeply forked ; 2 feet. 

C. m. grandiflorum. —A very handsome 
form, with blossoms about 4 inches across. 
One of the finest of the group. 

C. m. James Cocker.— A tall-growing 
plant, 3 feet high, with handsome pure white 
flower-heads. Very free. This is more nearly 
related, perhaps, to C. latifolium. 

C. m. Mrs. Head.— The flower-heads of 
this are often 5 inches across, pure white. It 
is a superb form for the border ; 2^ feet high. 

C. m. Wh. Robinson (see illustration). 
—Probably one of the best of those with 
deeply cut or forked florets. The florets are, 
at times, so freely cut as to give the impres¬ 
sion of a fringed flower; 2 \ feet high. 

C. m. Triumph. —A fine variety of dwarf 
habit and great purity. 

C. M. M. Prichard.—A dwarf kind, l£ feet 
high, the pure white blossoms of large size 
and good substance. 

C. M. King Edward VII.—A flower of the 
largest size, and nearly 5 inches across. 
Vigorous habit and free flowering; height, 
3 feet. 

C. latifolium.— Top Sawyer is probably 
the best variety of this later-flowering species, 
and where a plant of larger growth and late 
summer-flowering is desired, this has much to 
commend it. E. H. Jenkins. 


A DOZEN GOOD TUFTED PANSIES. 
Selections change from year to year, and, 
as the novelties get cheaper, they naturally 
are more in demand. A Tufted Pansy flowers 
continuously from early April until quite late 
in the autumn. The following are reliable 
sorts : — 

Swan. —A very beautiful rayless flower, 
with a large ricli orange-yellow eve. The 
plant is free flowering, and has a good habit. 

Mrs. E. A. Cade.—A nother fine rayles3 
flower, borne on long footstalks ; colour, rich 
yellow, and very sweet scented. It is a pro¬ 
fuse bloomer, of good habit aud robust con¬ 
stitution. 

Duncan.—T his is a dark bluish-purple 
flower, slightly rayed, and most attractive 
when in the mass. The plant is free-flower¬ 
ing, and when in full bloom is very handsome. 

Peace. —A beautiful rayless flower, of good 
form, and almost circula- ; colour, creamy- 
white, upper petals tinted heliotrope. It is 
of fine tufted habit. 

Mrs. Chichester. —This is a large-mar- 
giued flower, that so many growers nave a 
great partiality for; colour, flaked or mar¬ 
bled purple, on a white ground. It is very 
free-flowering, aud a most persistent bloomer. 

Primrose Dame. —Because of its free- 
flowering qualities this variety is included in 
this selection. The flowers are of good size 
and splendid substance; cblour, primrose 
self, with ajgtpniigs eye, and rnyluss. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 









4S 


GARDENING ILL ULTR A TDD, 


Marcii 23, 1907 


Miss Elsik May Can n.— This is one of the 
beet of the rich orange-yellow kinds. In the 
early part of the season the flowers are 
slightly rayed, but in the warmer weather 
they are quite rayless. Sweet-6cented, free- 
flowering, and of good habit. 

Bessie. —A free-flowering variety, and a 
viost persistent bloomer ; colour, pale blush 
self, sometimes coming with a broad, deeper- 
coloured margin, rayless. It is of good habit 
and splendid constitution. 

Cottage Maid. —This fine free-flowering 
kind is worthy of inclusion in all collections ; 
colour, purple and lavender, blotched white. 
It is in character somewhat similar to the 
popular Countess of Kintore. 

Marian Waters.—I n the late season this 
variety is particularly good ; colour, pale rosy 
lilac, and faintly rayed. 

White Empress. —This variety is also 
known under the name of Blanche. It is a 
large rayless, creamy-white flower of good 
quality. The plant is very free-flowering, 
and a most continuous bloomer. 

Acme.—A lthough this variety has been in 
existence for many years it is still valued be¬ 
cause of its free display, and also because of 
the brightness of its purplish crimson blos¬ 
soms. W. V. T. 


THE WINTER ACONITE. 

In the dark days of mid winter, when flowers 
of the open-air are few and far between, 
every break of colour in the landscape is in¬ 
valuable. The Cardinal and golden Willows 
by the waterside are bright with their tones 
of red and yellow, and the ruddy bark of Dog¬ 
wood cheers the scene, but nothing has such 
a charming effect in dull January days as 
wide-spread colonies of the Winter Aconite 
(Eranthis hyemalis), glowing in a sheet of 
bright gold beneath the leafless trees. It has 
been known in this country for over 300 
years, and Gerard wrote in 1597: “Wo have 
great quantities of Winter Wolf’s-bane in 
our London gardens;” this being the name 
by which the Aconite was then known. It 
should be planted by thousands in the Gra*ss 
around the boles of deciduous trees, for it 
dies down early and is withered before the 
Grass is cut. Beautiful as the flowers are 
when fully expanded in the sun, it is doubt¬ 
ful if they are not even more lovely in dull 
days when closed. They then aro globular 
spheres of bright gold, and have a charming 
appearance set in green, Elizabethan ruffs 
of foliage. The Winter Aconite will not suc¬ 
ceed in all soils, sometimes dying out in very 
dry and very wet ones. The roots should be 
procured as early as possible, and planted at 
once. July and August are none too soon, 
as the tubers lose vitality if kept out of the 
ground for any length of time. 

S. W. Fitzherbert. 


SEEDLING HOLLYHOCKS 
A few years since, when visiting Aldcnham 
House gardens, I noticed a remarkably fine 
lot of Hollyhock spikes standing up boldly 
amidst the wealth of shrubs and trees there. 
It was then September, but Mr. Beckett as¬ 
sured me that all the plants were from a 
January sowing, made in shallow pans in a 
warm greenhouse. It is rare to see Holly¬ 
hocks thus treated as annuals—indeed, such 
method would not be possible were there no 
warmth to force the seed to germinate and 
plants to grow strong so rapidly. With 
plants strong and sturdy, planted out into 
good ground from pots at the end of April or 
early in May, so much seems possible, and 
the really superb, tall spikes of fine double 
flowers seen at Aldenham told their own 
tale. But amateurs who may wish to have 
these hardy plants in fine bloom during the 
summer wiil, no doubt, do best to get seed of 
a fine strain—for Hollyhocks come very fine, 
double and varied in colour now’—and sow 
the seed in shallow pans or boxes on fine soil 
during the month of May, placing them in a 
cool frame or greenhouse, and, after water¬ 
ing, shading from hot sunshine, thus helping 
germination. When the plants are 2 inches 
in height they may be lifted from the pans, 
and be dibbled into a well-broken and 
manured piece of soil in a partially shaded 
position. Here, /Tufr out froim t jjiehes to 

Digitized by GOOglC 


8 inches apart, they will, being kept liberally 
watered, grow strong, and may, when well 
rooted, be finally shifted into the borders in 
October. It is such plants that will carry 
superb spikes of bloom the following year. 
The old method of propagating Hollyhocks 
by cuttings has been quite given up since the 
fungus peculiar to these plants so severely 
attacked them. Seedlings—the first year, at 
least—are far less susceptible to the fungus, 
and give really superb flowers. Some fresh 
plants are easily raised each year. A. D. 


NOTES AND IMPLIES. 

Plants for pillars.— On former occasions I have 
had most excellent advice from you, so will ask for 
more. The front of my house faces due south. On 
this is now being erected another room, supported by 
four pillars, with arches on front and two sides. The 
pillars are about 2 feet square, height to arches 
8 feet, with about 10 feet above by 12 feet wide, red 
brickwork with white stone facings. What do you 
recommend to grow up pillars and cover top space? 
I am afraid it will be too hot for Roses. Good light 
soil in three-foot, Hower-border.—D i e South. 

[If your soil is good, deeply worked, and 
reasonably manured, the manure being 
blended with the soil, not placed round the 
roots of the plants, there is no reason why 
climbing Roses should not succeed on the 
south of your house. To cover the upper part 
of the house plant Ainiee Vihort, Reve d’Or, 
Reine Olga de Wurtemberg, and Reine 
Marie Henrietta, and clothe the pillars with 
pillar Roses, such as climbing varieties of the 
following: —La France, Lamarque, Gloirc 
Lyonnaise, General Jacqueminot. If you 
would rather not have Roses, cover the pillars 
with Clematises, preferably of the Jackmani 
section ; or the pillars may be clothed with 
Euonymus radienns variegatus. This covers 
a good deal of space on the King’s house at 
Sandringham, and has a very dressy appear¬ 
ance. The upper part of the house may 
be covered with Clematis montana or Wis¬ 
taria sinensis. The last is a slow-growing 
plant, though beautiful when established. 
There are other things which may be suitable, 
but the plants named will bo a success.] 

Adonis amurensis. This plant, which was 
introduced in 1895, is valuable owing to ils 
early-flowering habit. It will often come into 
bloom in the open in January, preceding even 
the Winter Aconite, while in Scotland it will 
flower in February. It comes from the Amur 
River, is quite hardy, and easily grown. Its 
flowers are not so large as those of the better- 
known A. verna, but their bright yellow is 
welcome in the dull days of the year, while 
the finely-cut foliage is very graceful. Well- 
established, strong-growing plants will often 
exceed a foot in height. The Japanese aro 
said to have taken this plant in hand, and to 
have raised varieties of divers colours, among 
these being scarlet, purple and white, but 
these have not, as yet, been introduced into 
this country. A double variety has, however, 
appeared. This received an award of merit 
from the Royal Horticultural Society a couple 
of years ago. It is an attractive flower, with 
its treble row of petals surrounding a pea- 
green centre. The best position for this plant 
is a southern exposure at the foot of a wall, 
where it will obtain the maximum of winter 
sunshine. The chief enemy of this Adonis is 
the slug, that is extremely fond of the young 
growth. The best protection is a colinr of 
perforated zinc firmly fixed in the ground 
around the plant, the sharp upper edge of the 
collar generally keeping slugs at bay.— 8. W. 
Fitzherbert. 

Dondia Epipactis. The correct name for 
this plant is held to be Ilacquetia Epipactis, 
but it is better known under the title heading 
this note. It is an excellent successor to the 
Winter Aconite, flowering early in March. 
The effect of a group of strong plants flower¬ 
ing on a gently-sloping bank is very pretty. 
The flowers, which are borne on short stems, 
appear to be green and gold, but the central, 
yellow boss is really the flower, this being sur 
rounded by six pea-green, serrated bracts, 
that have the appearance of petals. A large 
plant, bearing some fifty expanded blossoms, 
is a cushion of pale green and gold, and is a 
very pleading sight. One of the plant’s chief 
recommendations is the lasting qualities of 
the flowers, which remain fresh for several 
weeks, this rendering them effective in the 


garden for a long period. It will succeed in 
the full sun or in partially-shaded spots, and, 
though it is stated to prefer heavy soil, will 
do well in a light staple. It contrasts well 
with purple and white Crocuses, Scillas, 
Snowdrops, and Triteleia uniflora, which are 
in flower at the same time, and should be 
planted in company with some of these. It 
is known by the English names of Gold Coin 
and Dwarf Masterwort, and was introduced 
into this country about ninety years ago. It 
is impatient of disturbance, and when once 
planted should be left alone.— S. W. Fitz¬ 
herbert. 

Hardy flowers at Fir Grange. -In Mr. 

Bilney’s garden big patches of Cyclamen 
Atkinsi are very effective. Bcgiiming to 
bloom in February, this little species is one 
of the most valuable hardy flowers wo have. 
Adonis amurensis is a bold, handsome species 
with larger flowers than the old vernalis, and 
valuable on account of it-s blooming with the 
Snowdrop. Daphne Dauphini should be made 
note of. It is a dwarf habited species, form¬ 
ing a bush about 2 feet high, and producing a 
quantity of purplish-coloured blossoms in 
February and March. At Fir Grange it is 
growing on the lower jxirtion of the rock 
garden, where the drainage is good. The 
lovely little Saxifraga Burseriana expands its 
pure white blossoms freely. Winter bloom¬ 
ing Crocuses, especially Imporati, have been 
blooming for6ome time past. The last-named 
with Mr. Bilney increases rapidly, whereas in 
some localities it languishes. It is certainly 
one of the most valuable hardy flowers we 
have, for when circumstances arc favourable 
it makes a brave show all through February. 
Veronica selaginoides forms aspreading mass 
of lovely fresh green foliage, which requires 
no flowers to enhance its attractiveness. It is 
one of the most charming outdoor plants wo 
have, quite distinct from all other members 
of tlio family. Seiiecio Greyi is equally dis¬ 
tinct, and in another way equally attractive. 
It has broad glaucous leaves, is of dwarf, 
shrubby habit, and is very desirable on ac¬ 
count of the contrast which it affords to other 
things during the winter season. Narcissus 
minimus, peeping up among decaying leaves 
in the woodland, is delightful. Ilepnticas of 
various colours look happy in partial shade; 
the exquisitely pure flowers of Leucojum 
vornum show up well lieneatli trees, ami Hya¬ 
cinth lus azureus. flowering freely, gives a 
charming bit of blue. J. Cornhill. 

Pentstemons from seed. In the garden 
these summer flowers make a lino display, ob¬ 
tained from seeds or cuttings, and if a packet 
is obtained from a reliable source much 
variety and fine blooms can be bad, some even 
equal to named kinds. To see them at their 
best, one should plant in groups. I attach 
much importance to the need for having 6eed 
of the very best strains, for there are some 
on the market which are not really worth 
growing. It is well to remember that it takes 
just a* long to grow a poor one as the best. 

I find Pentstemons of easy culture, and the 
seedlings respond well to the treatment 
usually given to the Ten-week Stocks and 
Asters. Careful nursing is necessary; a 
finely sifted soil mixture in which leaf-mould 
or Cocoa-fibro forms a third, is an advantage 
in promoting vigour in the seedlings. March 
is a good month for seed sowing, and a mild 
hot-bed essential. The seedlings when strong 
enough should be pricked out, and on the sub¬ 
sequent treatment depends much of tho future 
success. Sown in March, and grown under 
genial conditions, the plants can be put out¬ 
side with safety by the time they have gained 
sufficient size to be trusted in the open 
border. They will usefully fill bare spaces in 
the herbaceous border, but they are more 
effective planted alone.—W. S. 

The Algerian Iris in Cornwall (March 2 nd. 
p. 6).—Mrs. Rogers, writ ing to us, w ishes us to correct 
:i mistake which was made through a printer's error 
in the above issue. The number of blooms gathered 
during February was 600, and not 6,000 as printed. 


Index to Volume XXVIII. The binding covers 
(price Is. 6d. each, post free, Is. 9d.) and Index (3d., 
post free, m)\ for Volume XXVIII. are now ready, 
and may be had of all newsagents, or of the Put- 
Iisher. post free. 2-. for the two. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




March 23, 1907 


GAR DEWING ILLUSTRATED. 


of roots or some other cause, or when it is 
thought advisable to divide a plant for stock. 
The best time for repotting is when new roots 
are seen pushing from the base of the young 
growths, which at this season is their general 
time for 60 doing. Dendrobium nobiie may 
be grown equally well in a vinery, Cucumber, 
or Melon house, in the ordinary plant stove, 
or eveu in a moderately warm intermediate 
house. Whilst growth is being made, and 
roots are plentiful, the plant delights in copi¬ 
ous waterings, both at the root and overhead, 
the latter especially in the afternoon at 
closing time. On the completion of growth 
that is, when the last leaf at the apex of the 
bulbs has expanded, the plants should be 
taken from the house where they have been 
growing, and stood or suspended in a cooler 
house, such as a vinery, from which Grapes 
have been cut, Peach-house, or ordinary 
greenhouse, where they should be gradually 
exposed to full sunshine, and to increased 
ventilation, so that they may rest., and the 
proper ripening be thoroughly accomplished. 
While the plants are in a dormant state, so 
far as growth is concerned, they are in reality 
forming their flower buds, during which time 
the plants will recpiire only just sufficient 
water at the root to prevent the pseudo bulbs 
from undue shrivelling. When the flower 
buds begin to show, the plants may be gradu¬ 
ally inured to gentle warmth, in order that the 
flowers may be assisted to open proper!} - , ami 
their colours to be clear and rich. 

No. 2 is Coelogyne cristatn. The present 
time is its season for flowering, and a few 
weeks after the spikes are cut is the proper 
time for repotting any plants that require it. 
Shallow pans are generally preferred, and 
these should be tilled to three fourths of their 
depth with drainage, over which place a thin 
layer of rough Spliagum Moss. The plant 
will root freely in a well drained compost, 
consisting of three-parts good fibrous peat, the 
remaining part being composed of fibrous 
loam and Sphagnum Moss, adding some 
broken crocks and coarse sand. The tempera¬ 
ture of a warm greenhouse, or intermediate 
house, will he sufficient for it. A light 
shading only is necessary when the sun is 
powerful. It delights in a clear light., and 
will, when finishing up its pseudo bulbs, 
enjoy direct sunshine. When grown in too 
shady a place the spikes generally fail to carry 
their full complement of flowers. During the 
season of active growth the plant requires an 
abundant supply of water at, the roots, and a 
daily syringing overhead will assist to keep 
the bulbs plump, and the foliage clean and 
healthy. Soon after growth is completed the 
flower spikes commence to push up, the de¬ 
velopment of which takes a considerable time 
from their first appearance. These spikes 
being liable to damp off if moisture accumu¬ 
lates about them, syringing or watering over¬ 
head must ho discontinued, and whatever 
water is required at the root should be care¬ 
fully given. While in this semi-resting con¬ 
dition the plants will require less water, but 
they must not be kept so dry as to cause the 
pseudo bulbs to shrivel. As the flowers push 
up, an occasional dose of weak liquid-manure 
water will assist the plant through its 
greatest trial. It may he added that some¬ 
times when the plant is in a strong, healthy 
condition its leading pseudo bulbs get beyond 
the limits of the pan in which it is grown, 
and in order to obviate this and reduce the 
size of the plant, these leading pieces may be 
severed, with about three bulbs attached to 
each, leaving the remaining parts to produce 
back breaks. These severed pieces may then 
he arranged together in a pan, and in suffi¬ 
cient numbers to make up specimens of suit¬ 
able sizes, according to the requirements of 
the cultivator.] 


Short stem to Tulips (£.).—The probability is 
that the cause of the shortness of stem in your 
Tulips is due to their having been placed in heat 
too soon after potting or boxing. All bulbous plants 
are better for a lengthened sojourn in cold frames or 
in the open under Cocoa-nut-fibre or ashes, where 
they can make good root-growth beforo they throw 
up their spikes, the flowers of such as have been ac¬ 
corded this treatment being finer and quite as early 
as those that have been introduced into heat at ail 
earlier period. Shading might draw the plants up 
slightly, but this would weaken the flowers, aud 
should never be applied to spring-blooming bulb6. 


FERNS. 

NEPHROLEPIS EXALTATA TODEA- 
OIDES. 

During the past year many fine forms of the 
Sword Fern (N. exaltata) have been 
honoured by the Floral Committee of the 
Royal Horticultural Society, but the form 
N. e. todeaoides, a frond of which we figure 
to-day, is, we think, the best of all. When 
shown on October 9th, 1906, by Messrs. T. 


ORCHIDS. 

DENDROBIUM NOBILE AND CCELO- 
GYNE CRISTATA. 

Kindly let me know through your paper the names 
of enclosed Orchids, u good compost to pot in, when 
at rest, and what temperature to grow in? No. 1 
emits root-like growths up the stem. Ought those 
to be pegged down in the soil?—K. O. A. 

[No. 1 is Dendrobium nobiie. The young 
shoots, or aerial growths, which are emitted 
from the joints of the pseudo bulbs, should, 


A frond of Nephrolepis exaltata todeaoides. From a photograph in Messrs. II. B. May and Sons’ 
nurseries at Edmonton. 


Rochford and Sons, Turnford Hall Nurseries, 
Broxbourne, it was unanimously awarded a 
first-class certificate, an honour which was 
well deserved. The fronds have the plumose, 
much divided, vet overlapping character of 
Todea superba, hence the name. 


Daffodils failing to bloom .4. Donoran).— 

The failure of your Daffodils to bloom is, no doubt, 
due to their being too thick. Daffodils make a num¬ 
ber of offsets each year, these robbing the parent 
bulb. Those you send are evidently growing in u 
badly-drained soil, causing the'basal portion ® rot. 
They are in such a bad condition /fTJ^ w< jv<y.i;d. Dot 
hesitate to destroy them. 


I immediately they commence to emit roots, be 
| carefully taken off and potted. Place them in 
! small pots, using Sphagnum Moss, well mixed 
with small crocks, for them to root into. 
When these small plants have filled their pots 
with roots, and have made good pseudo bulbs, 
they will, on restarting into growth, require 
larger pots, when good fibrous peat in equal 
parts with the Sphagnum Moss, should be 
employed. The older examples should be re¬ 
potted in the same kind of compost, but re¬ 
potting ought not to be done unless the plants 
| require larger pots, or in the case of any 
which may have deteriorated either from loee 





50 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


March 23, 1007 


INDOOR PLANTS- 

ANNUALS FOR THE GREENHOUSE. 

People frequently lose sight of the fact that 
many annuals are well adapted for growing 
in pots for greenhouse and window cultiva¬ 
tion. Indeed, in houses where there is no 
artificial heat, one of the simplest ways of 
obtaining a bright, showy house at a com¬ 
paratively little expense is by employing an¬ 
nuals. Some of us—just at the moment, at 
any rate—are thinking of them more in con¬ 
nection with our beds and borders, but it is 
only due to say of some of them that they 
give a most brilliant show under glass. Not¬ 
withstanding the fact that it is an old annual, 
the Rhodanthe is a stranger to very many 
people, who seem to forget all about it, until, 
perhaps, they are reminded by the attractive 
pots of small white-and-pink Daisy-looking 
blossoms in the markets in May. Rhodanthcs 
may be sown any time now to June for 
blooming in pots, and those who can give 
them light soil and a sunny greenhouse can 
count on doing well with them. Both the 
Salpiglossis ana the Schizanthus are annuals 
that do well in a sunny part of the garden ; 
but where they can be potted, they turn out 
satisfactorily, and in the case of the Schi¬ 
zanthus, this is seen to better advantage 
grown in pots. Nemesias, though very 
pretty and easily grown annuals, cannot be 
said to be popular, and, though much has been 
written concerning them from time to time, 
there are those who have not yet included 
them in their collections of flowering plants. 
They are sometimes a disappointment as gar¬ 
den flowers, but for pots they are worth a 
trial. Balsams were regarded with favour by 
a former generation, much more than they 
are to-day, and though they cannot be said 
to be useful for cutting, the wax-like blos¬ 
soms are so beautiful as to make them of 
much service wherever plants are wanted for 
grouping in a house. The same remarks 
hold good in reference to the culture of 
Cockscombs, which delight in a brisk heat in 
their early stages, and may be bloomed in 
an ordinary greenhouse. Though somewhat 
quaint and stiff, they have about, them a 
certain attractiveness. Townsman. 


GROWING CAVE COWSLIPS 
(LACHENALIAS). 

Would you kindly tell me how to treat Lautienalias?— 
A. M. V. 

[The bulbs should be potted early in Sep¬ 
tember, using a compost of fibrous loam with 
one-sixth of decayed leaf-soil. Give good 
drainage, pot firmly, burying the bulbs about 
1 inch deep. Water only when dry, and then 
moderately, until the leaves are beginning to 
develop freely, when more copious supplies 
may be given, especially should the autumn 
be sunny. If wintered in a cool greenhouse, 
from which frost only is excluded, care, must 
be taken not to overwater when the days are 
at their shortest. In a cool-house the flower- 
spikes will begin to appear early in Feb¬ 
ruary, and as the sun gets stronger abundance 
of moisture at the roots must be given with 
occasional supplies of weak manure, which 
will impart a fine colour to the leaves and 
give strength to the flower-spikes. Badly- 
nourished uullxs will not give a true idea of 
the value of these pretty greenhouse plants, 
the stems not carrying more than a dozen 
blooms, whereas in their finest condition they 
will carry, individually, more than a score of 
finely-coloured flowers. Five bulbs in a 4|- 
inch pot, and seven or eight in a 6-inch pot, 
will form nice attractive specimens suitable 
for window decoration. In a cool room, and 
screened from hot sun, they will last six weeks 
or more in good condition. After blooming, 
watering must be continued with regularity 
until the foliage commences to decay, or the 
bulbs will lose strength. During the* summer 
months they should be stored away in some 
cool place—under a greenhouse stage, for in¬ 
stance, or in the open. 

Laehenalias are also very suitable for 
growing in baskets. Before planting them 
line the baskets with turfy loam broken to 
pieces, and the dust shaken out, or Moss, and 
when the bulbs show signs-of growth place 
thj*m in the int^rsG^ of ©-j^es at a 


distance of every 2 inches or 3 inches apart, 
and also over the surface of the basket. 
Never allow them to become dry when once 
they have commenced to grow, and in time 
the framework of the basket will be hidden 
by an abundance of luxuriant foliage and 
j flowers.—T.] 

NOTES AND BE PLIES. 

Greenhouse plants in poor condition—1 

i should be much obliged if you would kindly tell me 
what is the matter with my Genista? It seems to be 
dying, and for twelve months has been infested with 
a small, brown insect in white, frothy substance, as 
per enclosed branch. 1 should be glad to know what 
treatment is required to keep it healthy.—V. A. B. 

[The Genista you send a piece of is G. 

; clegans, which, judging from the branch you 
I send, is past recovery, and, seeing that it is 
one mass of mealy-bug, the best place for it is 
, the fire, to prevent the pest spreading to the 
other plants you may have in the house. The 
; leaves you send are those of Abutilon vexil- 
! larium, which have evidently been attacked 
badly by green-fly, while there are also 
traces of brown scale. Syringe the plant with 
Quassia extract and soft soap. All the plants 
j are evidently in a very dirty condition, and, 

' unless kept clean, you cannot expect them to 
thrive.] 

PlantB flowering in conservatory first week 

in May —Please tell me what plants 1 can buy now 
(tall and short plants) to bring on iu houses, with a 
temperature of from SO degs. to 70 degs., to flower 
by May 3rd, to place in conservatory for an evening 
entertainment? 1 want showy plants, and to grow 
; them now- to flower then. Conservatory is 20 feet 
by 15 feet.—M. L. 

[We cannot recommend the purchase now of 
| any flowering plants in order to have them in 
bloom on a particular date in May. So many 
points have to be taken into consideration in 
| this matter—notably the weather—that may 
| influence the time at which the plants can be 
generally anticipated to be at their best, by at 
least a fortnight. Even the market cultivator, 
with all his experience, frequently fails to 
■ time his crop of bloom correctly, the result 
being a scarcity, followed by a glut of flowers, 
and, consequently, a severe pecuniary loss. 
This happens, too, when an entire house is 
given up to one subject, and, cf course, it 
| would be far more likely to occur when a mis¬ 
cellaneous collection of plants is brought to¬ 
gether. As the case stands, we should advise 
! you to arrange with a local florist or nursery¬ 
man to supply the flowering plants at the date 
j required. By attending Covent Garden in 
early morning he is enabled to draw from the 
! great number of growers that bring their pro- 
s duce there, most of them specialists in their 
I own particular line. The following are all 
| likely to be in bloom at about the time 
1 named : —Arum Lily, Azalea mollis, Calceo¬ 
laria, Cineraria, Heaths, Hydrangea. Helio- 
trope, Kalanchce flammea, Lilacs in pots, 

I Lily of the Valley, Lilium speciosum (pink 
and white), Lilium Harrisi (white Trumpet 
Lily), Lobelia, Marguerites, Mignonette, 
i Pelargoniums in variety, Rhodanthe Mun- 
glesi, Schizanthus, Streptoc&rpus, Spiraeas, 

I Stocks, etc.] 

Cytisus scoparius Andreanus in green¬ 
house.- In making a selection of hardy 
shrubs for flowering under glass anyone on 
| the look out for something out of the way 
might well take note of this beautiful and dis- 
I tinct member of the Broom family, as it 
| readily conforms to gentle forcing. Beside 
this the flowers are, say in March, even 
brighter, I think, than they are iu the open 
ground a couple of months later—at all events, 
there is nothing at that time flowering in the 
i greenhouse with which they can be compared, 
j The Dutch cultivators who send to this coun- 
I try a great number of hardy shrubs for 
i forcing, now recognise the possibilities of this 
Broom for the greenhouse, and large num¬ 
bers of neat bushy plants, just fit for potting 
up, are sent to this country each autumn. 
They should be potted as soon as possible on 
receipt, as the roots have but few fibres, and 
consequently the plants soon suffer if they are 
not soon permanently planted or potted. 
After this the pots should be plunged out-of- 
doors, taking care that the plants are sup¬ 
plied with water when necessary, till by the 
end of January, or even throughout Feb- 
j ruary, they may be taken into the greenhouse. 

1 With the additional warmth of spring the 


! young leaves will soon begin to unfold, and 
the flower buds are then visible. I have 
noticed a very strange thing in connection 
with Cytisus Andreanus, and that is when 
under glass the tender leaves are often at¬ 
tacked by aphides or green-fly, which on this 
Broom reach a larger size than on any other 
plant I know, except it be a specimen of 
Lathyrus pubescens, which was attacked by 
I them last summer.—X. 

I The cleaning of plant-hou6es.— The im 
portance of maintaining all glass structures 
used for plant growing in as clean a condition 
as possible is well known, and cannot be too 
I strongly emphasised. It is the rule in many 
gardens to give them a thorough overhauling 
at the present time before the busy season 
opens. The occupants of the houses of what¬ 
ever nature they may bo should first be thor¬ 
oughly cleaned, using some approved insecti¬ 
cide for the purpose Then comes the 
cleansing of the woodwork and glass, both out¬ 
side as well as the interior, using for this, hot 
soapy water, and rinsing down afterwards 
with clean. After this clean out the tanks, 
and if these are built of brick and cement or 
[ concrete give the bottom and sides a coat of 
[ hot lime wash, allowing this to dry thoroughly 
i before letting in water again. All exposed 
| wall surfaces should be lime washed after 
I scraping off Moss, etc., and where stages are 
covered with shingle, broken coke, or ashes, it 
pays to turn the materials over, and give them 
a cleansing with the hose pipe. Structural 
alterations or any necessary repairs had better 
have attention while this kind of work is 
going forward, to avoid upsetting the internal 
arrangements at some future, und, perhaps 
more inconvenient, time. Once the cleaning 
has been effected it is not such a difficult 
matter to keep the structures so for some time 
in country districts, but in and about the 
suburbs of large towns it requires, of course, 
to be done much oftener. As regards the in¬ 
mates, much may be done to keep them in a 
clean condition if they are syringed with a 
solution of some insecticide weekly, and 
another great aid in this direction is in 
vaporising the houses at frequent intervals. 
If the plants are clean to begin with, either 
or both methods will tend to keep them so. if 
only persevered with. Plentiful and forcible 
syringings with plain water only are also of 
great assistance in keeping down insects. 
Blinds for affording shade should also be over¬ 
hauled, and, if necessary, be repaired, as the 
time when they will be required will 8oon be 
at hand. The above may appear to be trifling 
matters of detail to many, but their adoption 
goes a long way towards securing efficiency. 

Primula sinensis The Duchess.—Those 

who have grown and flowered this Primula 
I will, I think, agree with me that its merits 
I have not been in the least over-rated, and 
I that it is one of the finest varieties yet raised. 

I Those who appreciate the beauty of these 
! Chinese Primulas (should include The 
I Duchess, if they have not already done so. 
not to the exclusion of other varieties, blit 
as a companion to them, and they will, 1 
venture to think, be charmed with the beauti¬ 
ful coloration of the flowers. It is a vigorous 
' grower, and its strong flower-spikes are well 
thrown up above the foliage. The individual 
flowers are large, white, with a yellow eye, 
round which is a band of rosy-carmine, which 
imparts to the flower-truss, os a whole, n 
unique and most beautiful effect. I find it 
attract*? more attention than the crimson 
and white varieties, and, although I hare 
grown it since its introduction, it is still as 
much admired as ever. A person who had 
lived abroad for some years on first behold¬ 
ing some plants of ib in full bloom at the 
close of last year, wns impressed with its 
beauty. It is as easily grown as any other 
variety, and a packet of seed usually pro¬ 
duces quite a goodlv number of plants. 

A. W. 

"The English Flower Garden and Home 

Grounds.”— Nero Edition, 10th, reviled, frith descrip¬ 
tions of all the beet plants, trees, ami shrubs, 

' culture and arrangement, illustrated on wood, cum , 
medium, 8vo., 15s .; post free, 15s. 6d. 
i "The English Flower Garden" rnay 
had finelg bound in ? vole., half morocco, 
"mnNMwI 1 1 iLunvu r 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




March 23, 1907 


GAPPEXIXG ILLUSTRATED. 


51 


VEGETABLES. 

Manures for potatoes. 

How common a practice is it to bury into 
the ground, when Potatoes are being planted, 
manure that is fresh and crude, or, if it has 
been stored, has heated and thus lost mois¬ 
ture and fertility. To bury such material 
then is worse than useless, because it but 
serves to keep the soil very open and loose, 
enabling heat to penetrate and dry it very 
rapidly. Still farther it fails to decay, hence 
creates no real plant food. But whilst 
Potato growers are thinking of planting 
tubers, they can do some good by getting 
ground prepared. One of the most useful 
methods is to mark ground out into breadths 
of 2\ feet for medium growers, and 3 feet for 
strong growers, with a line, and to throw up 
each breadth across the plot to be planted 
into a sharp ridge, using a long spade or 
steel fork. The first spit-width should be 
put out at the end to fill in the end of the next 
ridge ; then take each of the side spits and 
cast them over into the trench then opened, 
but close together, then putting the centre 
spit on top, making a ridge, and leaving it 
somewhat rough. When that is done through¬ 
out, animal manure, if to be used, or, failing 
that, artificial manure, should be laid or 
dressed along each furrow, and be with a 
fork well dug in and thoroughly mixed with 
the soil. In that way extra depth of moved 
soil is produced for each row, and by burying 
the manure well down the roots are encour¬ 
aged to go deep for it.. Where soil is stiff 
and likely to become wet, a layer of strawy 
dung, buried beneath the rows, in this way 
acts as drainage, and helps to keep the roots 
warm. 

One of the finest crops of Potatoes I ever 
lifted on strong land in a damp season was 
so treated. For light soils, the manure 
should be fully decomposed, so as to 
furnish more moisture and lie closer. If arti¬ 
ficial manures be used, at the rate of 3 lb. 
per 60 feet of row, or furrow, it will be very 
advantageous to mix them with six times 
their bulk of wood-ashes and soot, thus giv¬ 
ing the ground a liberal dressing, and well 
forking it in. As with artificials, so with the 
animal manure, if such work be done at once, 
and. as should be the case, the tubers to be 
planted being got into shallow boxes thinly, 
to sprout in light and air, before planting, 
and that planting be done ubout the third 
week in April, then the manure dressings have 
become partially soluble, and roots soon 
begin to utilise it. Before planting, a hoe 
should be used to draw a drill along the 
centre of the furrow, in which the tubers 
should be placed ; then have the loose sides 
of the ridges forked down to cover them. 
Later, when the plants are well up, and be¬ 
fore the usual moulding is done, it is well to 
lightly fork lip the soil between the rows. 
When the soil is thus ridged and manure 
forked in, planting at the proper time can be 
done with considerable rapidity, speeiaL care 
being taken to keep the shoots on the tubers 
intact. Of artificial manures excellent for 
Potatoes are two-thirds steamed bone-flour 
and one part finely crushed kainit. Rape- 
dust and fish guano mixed are also good. 

_A. D. 

KALES. 

I do not think my old friend, “A. D.,” need 
regret much the collapse of the Kales at Wis- 
lev (page 691). As a matter of fact, there are 
far too many varieties. In looking through a 
leading seed-list, I counted twenty-four, of 
which I have tried at least four-fifths in dif¬ 
ferent seasons, and as the result have this 
vear ordered three—Cottager’s, Tall Curled 
Scotch, and Reid’s Hearting. These are, un¬ 
doubtedly, from the threefold standpoint of 
good constitution, hardiness, and productive¬ 
ness the three finest Kales on the market. 

I distinguish between good constitution and 
hardiness, because in the years when I grew 
the broad -leaved types there was no possi¬ 
bility of ascertaining their hardiness. 
They grew well and looked remarkably well all 
through the autumn An3 early wiritfer^and 
then collapsed suddenly V As 

our soil somewhat resebibles that ^T^visTey— 


i.e.y sand—close to the surface, it would be 
interesting if other growers with similar soil 
would give their experience. Giving up the 
| culture of the Asparagus Kale was not the 
result of one season’s failure. I like it very 
much, both for its excellent quality and its 
lateness, and tried it in different parts of the 
garden, but all to no purpose. The very 
dwarf curled forms are all very well in their 
way, but as they throw only about one-third 
the number of sprouts furnished by the taller 
sorts, they are hardly wortli growing, except 
in small gardens. Drumhead Kale came with 
a flourish of trumpets, but it is nothing like so 
hardy with me as the sorts named earlier in 
this note, and I have discarded it. Just a line 
in favour of the most productive and hardiest 
of all. The Thousand-headed. “Coarse,” 
some may say, but that depends on the picker. 
Take long growths in their entirety, and they 
will be coarse, hard, and stringy; but let 
I the new growth develop a hit, nip it off at 
4 inches, and cook it well, with a handful of 
Turnip-tops thrown in, and you will have an 
appetising dish. E. Burrell. 

Claremont. 


AUTUMN-SOWN BROAD BEANS. 
The success which has attended the sowing 
of Broad Beans in autumn during the past 
few seasons was a sufficient incentive to re¬ 
peat the effort again last season. These 
came through with more than average regu 
larity, and mode good progress up to the early 
weeks of the new year. The extremely cold 
winds and severe frosts, however, have laid 
them low, and their blackened and prostrate 
stems and leaves now present a hopeless 
prospect. As a rule, Broad Beans are fairly 
hardy, resisting ordinary frost visits, hut a 
continuance of low temperatures tells a sad 
tale when the weather again reverts to a nor¬ 
mal state. By autumn-sowing a gain of some 
days may be expected over the earliest of the 
new year sowings. I have not had an oppor¬ 
tunity of examining the field crops of forage 
Beans, but I shall be surprised if these do 
not show much evidence of the frosts. The 
variety most depended on for autumn sowing 
is the Seville Long Pod, a hardy and long- 
podded variety of high quality. I have no 
doubt but that the plants will, many of them, 
send up from the damaged ground-stem green 
shoots to restore their lost leaders, but it is 
doubtful whether their retention would be 
profitable, sowing afresh being, probably, the 
better way. It would be interesting to learn 
from your readers who have practised 
autumn sowing what is the state of the 
plants following such severe weather; also 
Peas. In years gone by the custom of sow¬ 
ing both Peas and Beans was much more 
general than it is now. Now many sow under 
glass in pots, turves, or boxes, transplanting 
in March to the open border. W. S. 


TEMPORARY HOUSE FOR TOMATOES. 

I HAVE a number of lights, fi feet by 4 feet, well 
glazed. Would it answer to fit them up as houses, 
minus sides, for Tomatoes? How many plants do 
you think I might plant to the yard? And would 
they thrive without water heyond what would reach 
them outside from rain?— Thomas Robb. 

[You may make a useful temporary green¬ 
house with your spare lights in the way you 
propose, hut you must make provision for ven¬ 
tilation along the ridge, and also along the 
bottom. If the house is only some 110 feet or 
so long you may possibly succeed without any 
openings along the ridge by leaving the ends 
partially open, with openings near the ground 
line. You will probably rest the ends of the 
lights on bricks to keep them off the ground, 
and by leaving a brick out here and there the 
air will enter near the ground line. The 
house will need ties and supports, otherwise 
the wind may blow it over, and if I were 
doing the work I should leave an open space, 
say about 4 inches wide, along the ridge, 
covered by a movable cap, to lift up with a 
lever at one end. You may check the draught 
through the house by using canvas or mat¬ 
ting, in the shape of eartains at each end, 
which can be drawn on one side in hot 
weather. Something of this kind will be 
necessary, or the draught will at times be in¬ 
jurious to growth. If the house is more than 
20 feet long, ridge ventilation will be impera¬ 


tive. Having the lights, you desire to make 
some use of them without incurring much ex¬ 
pense, but they must be fixed with sufficient 
firmness to resist wind. This you may be able 
to do by screwing purlinos 2 inches in dia¬ 
meter, or iron rods may suffice screwed to 
each light, with either iron or wood supports 
to carry the weight, with cross-trees at in¬ 
tervals of 5 feet or so to bind the two sides to¬ 
gether. 

The soil in your district is very suit¬ 
able for Tomatoes, and there is no reason why 
you should not succeed, and if you mulch the 
inside borders and outside as far as the roots 
extend with manure, the watering required 
will not be heavy, though you may probably 
have to help them in hot weather. In plant¬ 
ing your houses the best course will be to 
have a row from 12 inches to 15 inches apart 
along each side, and train up Bamboo canes, 
having the same pitch as the roof. You may 
excavate a narrow path along the centre, to 
get free access to the plants for stopping, 
training, etc. Run the house north and south 
if you have any choice in the matter.] 


NOTES AND HE PLIES. 

Clobe Artichokes. —The recent severe 
weather has been a bit hard on old stools, 
even where protected with a strawy litter, 
Fern, or fresh leaves, and in bad cases it is 
advisable to lift part of the crop as soon as 
the weather permits, dividing them carefully, 
and potting up a few dozen, with a few roots 
attached, if procurable, and plunging the 
same in a brick pit protected from frost, 
where new roots and fresh growth will soon 
be mode. Ventilate freely whenever the 
weather is favourable, and keep the soil on 
the dry side until renewed action of root and 
leaf growth becomes apparent. Well harden 
off the plants when, towards the middle of 
April, they may be set out 3 feet to 4 feet 
apart each way, giving them a rich piece of 
ground, that has been trenched two or more 
feet in depth. Should the plants have been 
killed outright, most nurserymen hold a re¬ 
serve of Globe Artichokes in pots, which can 
be generally purchased at about 7s. 6d. per 
dozen plants. Seed is sometimes resorted 
to. This should be sown early in March, in 
drills 1 inch deep and 12 inches apart. The 
seedlings, as soon as large enough, should be 
transplanted, allowing the same distances as 
above. The worst thing about seedlings is 
that many may prove worthless, and have to 
be pulled out, so that in the long run it is 
better to purchase the required number of 
plants, which need not be many, even in large 
gardens, as, after a year’s growth, they very 
quickly increase, and may be freely divided 
in early spring. The Purple and Green 
Globe are the only two varieties that I am 
acquainted with. Protection afforded old 
stools should not be removed until near the 
end of March, when a thick dressing of rich 
manure should be forked in between the 
plants, as starved ones produce small, puny 
heads hardly worth cooking. New planta¬ 
tions should be made now and again, chang 
ing the site, or they become crowded after 
half-a-dozen years or so.— J. MaynE, Bicton, 
Devon. 

Theory versus practice. An eminent au¬ 
thority upon horticulture has lately stated 
that, in his opinion, the time is past when 
mere expository work, such as instruction by 
means of lectures and books, can be accepted 
as a training in horticulture. It is useful to 
have laboratory exercises on grafting, propa¬ 
gation, pruning, spraying, and plant-breed¬ 
ing; but these alone are incidental, and they 
really trifle with a great subject. The labora¬ 
tory of horticulture should cover the whole 
theory and practice of the art. In the pomo- 
logical division, for example, the laboratory 
would consist of, say, fifty acres of actual 
orchards, in which all phases of the work, 
from start to finish, may not only be seen by 
the student in actual operation, but he should 
also take part in their performance. And, 
furthermore, if these phases cannot be taught 
at the time of year when the students are in 
the habit of coming to college, their time of 
coming should be changed. With all of this 
we are in entire agreement. There are in 
this country several establishments where 
gardening is taught upon eminently practical 



Maixii 23, 1907 


52 


GARt)EM‘lJ\rG ILL VSTRATED. 


liucs, and, in addition to the routine work of 
the garden, experiments in the manuring of 
crops and the improvement of plants by 
breeding are carried out. But, for all this, 
the thoughtful, practical horticulturist will 
feel a certain mistrust of the college-trained 
gardener. The training he or she receives 
certainly gives something that is lacking in 
the ordinary working gardener, but, at the 
same time, whatever academical distinctions 
they may bear off, it is a fact that men who 
have had what should he the considerable ad¬ 
vantage of a college training, do net seem to 
attain to eminence in the horticultural pro¬ 
fession. The Field. 


GARDEN WORK. 

Conservatory. - There is always a demand 
for white flowers at Easter, and there is 
plenty of white Azaleas, Lilacs, S pi rasas, 
Trumpet Lilies, Lily of the Volley, Solomon’s 
Seal, White Tulips, Arum Lilies, etc., now. 
If hardened off u bit before taking them to 
the conservator}' the flowers will last some 
time. The night temperature of the conser¬ 
vatory need not exceed 50 degs., and no harm 
• will be done if it falls to 45 degs. on a frosty 
morning. But when the condensed moisture 
freezes on the glass inside, the drip when 
the sun reaches the glass is disagreeable. 
During the period when frosty nights are ex¬ 
pected moisture should only be used in the 
morning, when the lights can be opened and 
the moisture permitted to escape. When the 
blossoms of Acacias fade the growth should 
be pruned back. Unless this is done the 
plants get unwieldy to move about. All 
other greenhouse shrubs should be pruned if 
they require it, to put them into proper trim. 
Azaleas seldom require much pruning, and 
Camellias in pots do not grow so freely as 
when planted out. The same may be said cf 
all plants when the rcota arc in a pot in a 
confined space. Tea and ether licses are 
lovely new. One never has too many Rcses, 
and when a house can be given up to them 
the result will be very interesting. Avoid 
cold draughts in all plant-houses now, ns the 
plants will be troubled with insects and 
mildew, especially among Roses, and yet the 
ventilation must be abundant. The roof ven¬ 
tilator may be opened early in the morning, 
and be left open till four o’clock in the after¬ 
noon. When the nights are calm and mild 
a little air left on all night will be beneficial, 
as plants cannot be kept continually in good 
health in a stuffy atmosphere. There will 
soon be a good deal of pinching and training 
of climbing grow th. 

Stove.— Climbers must be promptly trained. 
If such things as Allamandas and Bougain 
villeas are grown in pots they may require a 
shift. The Bougainvilleas require hard 
pruning to obtain long wreaths of flowers, as 
they are produced on the young wood only. 
Gardenias should he plentiful now. Soot- 
water in a clear, weak condition will be use¬ 
ful, as it gives a dark tint to the foliage. 
Cuttings of young shoots getting just a little 
firm will, if kept close, strike root in sandy 
peat in bottom-heat. Look after cuttings of 
Poinsettias and Euphorbias. Young shoots 
will strike now, the former in thumb-pots and 
the Euphorbias round the sides of 5-inch or 
smaller pots. Look after cuttings of winter- 
flowering Begonias for next winter’s bloom¬ 
ing ; also other soft-wooded winter flowering 
plants as Pentas carnea and its varieties. 
Plumbago rosea, Coleus thyrsoideus, etc. 
Anything in the shape of soft young shoots 
3 inches or 4 inches long will, if kept close for 
a time, strike in bottom heat. Cuttings struck 
now may be grown into nice little specimens 
in 5-inch or 6-inch pots during the summer. 
Night temperature now 65 degs., ventilation 
at 75 degs. to 80 degs. Use plenty of atmos¬ 
pheric moisture. 

Orchard house. Be careful with the venti¬ 
lation. Avoid cold currents. Most of the air 
will be given in the roof, preferably along the 
ridge, when the air is cold. When the sun is 
bright the wind is very often keen, and should 
not he permitted to come with a rush through 
the blossoms and Voulta-foliage—| A^ such 
timeftihe yen 1 i 1 nto \nity \Jr cinWiKjind not 


admit much wide air, using moisture freely 
on the paths to soften the aridity of the at¬ 
mosphere. Though at this season Peaches 
and Plums usually set well in a properly ven¬ 
tilated house, it is well to go over the trees 
about 11 or 12 o’clock with a padded stick, and 
tap the stems of the trees to scatter the pollen. 
Watering now requires judgment; but when 
a person is accustomed himself to give each 
pot a tap before giving water it is not often 
a mistake is made. On mild, calm days give 
air very freely, and the progress will be rapid. 
As soon as the blossoms are set bring the 
syringe into w'ork to remove dead blossoms, 
and then disbudding may be begun. Give a 
little air early in the morning. 

The Fig-house. —Disbud freely, as weak, 
thin shoots are of no use for bearing. Crush 
the terminal buds between the linger and 
thumb when five leaves have beem made. The 
first crop will now be swelling fast, and liquid- 
manure may be given freely, as Figs arc gross 
feeders. Do not use cold water either at the 
roots or through the syringe. Keep a drier 
atmosphere whilst the fruits are in blossom. 
As the blossoms are within the fruits the fer¬ 
tilisation is generally done by insects, and it 
is important that at. that time the atmosphere 
should be fairly dry, and the ventilation 
ample. Night temperature 60 degs. to 65 degs. 

Melons in warm-house.— The fruits will 
probably be set or setting now, and as far as 
possible get the crops nil set together. When 
Melons are trained to wire under glass let the 
main stems reach some distance up the house 
before stopping, as it adds so much to the 
strength. The fruits will be borne on the 
side-shoots, which should be stopped two 
leaves beyond the fruit. When Melons are 
trained to a single stem four fruits will be a 
good crop. Where more development is per¬ 
mitted the crop will be larger, but not quite 
so early, and it w ill not be quite so easy to get 
enough fruits for a crop ready for setting at 
the same time. If one or two fruits get a lead 
others will not swell. 

Flowers In the house. -These should be 
abundant now', and ns many changes as re¬ 
gards the plants used should be made as pos¬ 
sible. Azaleas, Lilacs, Deutzins, Spiraeas, 
Rhododendrons, and bulbs of various kinds, 
including Lilium Harrisi, will be ready now, 
and if Orchids are grown they will last well 
in the warm room. 

Outdoor garden. -All Lilies except candi- 
dum may yet be moved. When planting in 
groups do not crowd ; leave room for expan¬ 
sion ; especially is this necessary for the 
Madonna Lily, as the bulbs increase rapidly 
in suitable positions. In planting Lilies work 
in a little sandy compost round the bulbs. 
Many people are pruning their Roses, but I 
think the 20th of the month is early enough 
generally. There are exceptional cases where 
the pruning may be done a week earlier or 
later. Newly planted Roses may remain till 
the end of the month, and be pruned in harder 
than is usually done with established plants. 
Rhododendrons may be moved now, and 
groups of Lilies may be planted among them. 
Among special feature's Tree-Poeonies make 
very showy groups in sheltered positions. 
They grow well in peat, loam, and leaf-mould. 
Something should be done for them at the be¬ 
ginning to give them a good start. Plant all 
kinds of deciduous trees and shrubs. Turf 
also may be laid down if required, and lawns 
top-dressed with artificial manure. Horticul¬ 
tural chemists make a special lawn manure, 
which is useful. 

Fruit garden. Fruit-trees may yet be 
planted. It is getting rather late, but I would 
rather plant in March than wait till next 
autumn, as the trees will bo making roots, 
and be prepared for a vigorous start the fol¬ 
lowing season. It is better to leave late- 
planted trees unpruned till autumn. This 
need not prevent the shortening of any long 
shoct-s, to check any undue strain upon the 
mutilated roots. In pruning Figs leave plenty 
of rcom for training the young shoots thinly. 
If the usual new’ Strawberry-beds were not 
planted in August they may be set out now, 
and Onions planted between the rows <f 
Strawberries. Remove all blossoms which 
show on the Strawberries this season. A few 


strong runners may be obtained from them 
for forcing without encroaching upon the 
Onions. Of course, all blind plants should 
be removed from all Strawberry beds as soon 
as their condition is observed. The coverings 
should be placed over Peaches and Apricots. 
All trees are backward this season. Birds are 
busy among fruit-trees and bushes, and should 
be checked. 

Vegetable garden. —Take advantage of the 
fine weather to make the necessary sowings of 
the various crops required. Spinach can be 
sown as a catch crop between the rows of 
Peas. Winter Spinach is one of the most 
valuable green crops, and very few people 
sow enough of it at the right season. Spinach 
Beet is a very good substitute for the real 
Spinach, and may be sown towards the end of 
the month, or earlv in April. New Zealand 
Spinach is generally sown in small pots, two 
or three seeds in each pot, placed in beat, and 
planted out in a sunny spot towards the end 
of May from 18 inches to 3 feet apart. It is 
a plant of rapid growth. There are other 
substitutes for Spinach, but. these are the two 
best, and they are very useful when the hot 
weather comes, and the real Spinach runs to 
seed. Turnip-rooted Celery should be sown 
now, and pricked out like ordinary Celery. It 
is a valuable vegetable, and is easily grown. 
Not nearly so expensive a crop as the ordinary 
kind, it may be planted in rows 2 feet apart 
on the surface, and watered when dry. The 
bulb forms on the surface of the ground, and 
is of considerable size under good culture. If 
required to be blanched all the earth may be 
drawn over it. A first sowing of winter 
Greens should be made. E. Hobday. 

THE COMING WEEK’S WORK. 

Extracts from a Carden Diary. 

March 25th .—Sowed more hardy annuals 
outside. Pricked off into boxes tender 
annuals sown under glass. They will be kept 
in mild heat for a time till the roots get to 
work, and then be moved to cold frames. 
Planted various climbers out of pots to cover 
fences and other naked surfaces where some 
leafage is required. One rather wide arch 
has been planted with Eccremocarpus. This 
has a pretty effect where it grows and flowers 
freely. 

March 26th .—Grass is growing, and the 
mowing-machine ha4 been brought into use. 
Grass edgings where trodden out of shape 
have been put right, and made true. Where 
on one path Box-edgings had become a little 
gappy the Box has been taken up and re¬ 
planted, this being better than filling up gaps, 
which are often unsatisfactory. Finished 
planting Carnations, and filled one small bed 
with Ranunculi. 

March 27th .—Some of the hardiest bedding 
plants have been moved to cold frames, but 
will be covered at night for the present. We 
want to make a clearance, partially, at any 
rate, of the fruit houses, so that the necessary 
attention can be given to the trees ; besides, 
when the borders of Peach bouse and vineries 
are filled with plants in small pots which re¬ 
quire much water the atmosphere becomes 
stuffy. 

March 23th. Relays of Strawberries in pots 
are taken indoors every fortnight. Plants in 
flower are gone over with the rabbit’s-tail to 
set the blossoms, and when enough of the 
finest blossoms have set, small fruits and late 
blossoms are removed, and a few r small sticks 
placed to support the clusters of fruit. 
Pruned Roses, cutting back to dormant buds, 
and thinning out weakly shoots 

March 29th .—We are still busy among the 
Ruses, as we consider all pruning except late- 
planted Teas may be done now. We want 
quality rather than quantity. Some prune 
rather hard, which really means that weakly 
growers are cut to two or three buds, and 
strong growers to five buds or so, and many 
weakly shoots are cut clean out. Sowed 
Spinach Beet as a substitute for Spinach in 
rows 15 inches apart. Shall thin to 8 inches. 

March 30th .— Shrubs for forcing are moved 
from cold house to warm house as required. 
A good deal of forcing is done where the night 
temperature does not exceed 50 degs. to 
55 degs. This is quite high enough for shrub 



March 23, 1907 


GARDENING ILL USTRATED. 


forcing at this season. Lilacs, for instance, 
soon open their blossoms in a heat of 50 degs. 
or a little over. The same may be said of 
Azaleas, Deutzias, and other shrubs, but 
Spiraeas take a good deal of heat to move 
them. 

OBITUARY. 

SIR THOMAS HANBURY, K.C.V.O., 

V.M.H. 

About the best known English garden-lover 
of his time died of pneumonia on March 9th, 
aged 75, in his beautiful home at. La Morlola, 
near Mentone. This has long been an object 
of pilgrimage to visitors to the Riviera, 
charmed with its revelation of plant beauty 
and picturesque effects. He was not only a 
collector, but bad the taste to form a really 
beautiful garden —a very different thing from 
a mere collection, however wide. Some five 
years ago, when the Council of the Royal Hor¬ 
ticultural Society resolved to leave the Chis¬ 
wick Gardens, Mr. Hanhury bought for the 
sum of £5,000, and presented to the Society, 
the garden of the late Mr. G. F. Wilson at 
Weybridge, and to him is also due the* origin 
of the Hnnbury Botanical Institute at Genoa, 
and the Museum Prehistoricum, near 
Mentone. 

Mr. E. M. Holmes, F.L.S., curator of the 
Museum of the Pharmaceutical Society of 
Great Britain, writing to The Times, says 
that the Museum of the Pharmaceutical 
Society of Great Britain in November, 1892, 
was presented by Sir Thomas Hanhury with 
the valuable collection of rare ancient and 
modern materia medica made by his brother 
Daniel (who had a world-wide reputation as 
an authority itl materia medica and botany), 
as well art with all the medicinal plants col¬ 
lected during many years for his herbarium 
from all parts of the world. The library of 
the society at the same time received a large 
collection of scarce and extremely valuable 
works on materia medica and botany. Both 
the specimens of 'materia medica and the 
books have been utilised by reference by many 
scientific men, anti only recently the her¬ 
barium of medicinal plants afforded consider¬ 
able information to the botanists of the Royal 
Gardens at Kew and Berlin. As Sir Thomas 
himself took^reat interest in medicinal plants 
—a fact well known to all visitors to his cele¬ 
brated garden at La Mortola—it indicates a 
little self denial to have parted with the 
botanical treasures presented to this society. 

BIRDS* 

Bird ^ troubled with insect pests 

(M. A. It. K .).—After removing the bird, 
place the cage close to a hot fire, when the in¬ 
sects will be seen issuing forth from cracks 
and crevices in squadrons, when they may be 
destroyed bv pouring boiling water over them, 
or the cage may be placed in an oven and 
well baked. If it be preferred, the cage may 
be scalded in boiling water, and well scrubbed 
with strong soda arid soap, and then rinsed 
with clean, fresh water. When quite dry it 
should be carefully painted with Fir-tree-oil, 
using a small brush or stiff feather, taking 
care that no crack or crevice is overlooked. 
The mites upon the bird can be destroyed by 
dusting it under the feathers with Pyrethrum 
powder, or paraffin-oil may be used, it being 
a certain destroyer of insect life, and if used 
carefully it will do the bird no harm. The 
bird must be held gently, but firmly, in one 
hand, and with a small camel-hair brush 
dipped in oil touch it here and there whilst 
blowing up the feathers, taking care to use 
but a small quantity of the oil, so that the 
feathers do not become soiled. 

Canary losing; its voice (No name). This 
bird appears to bo suffering from aphonia, a 
complaint that causes the loss of the power 
ofw.ug. It is not an uncommon trouble with 
canaries, and often arises from a severe cold 
caught during the time of moulting, in which 
case the faculty of song is seldom regained. 
You might try putting six or eight drops of 
glycerine in the drinking water daily for about 
a week, and then substitute dissolved gum 
arabio in the water, two/fFThree pieces Jbcmt 
the size of a Pea. AlLuu^p|y a 
mutton suet or a morsel TtMtacon fa^j^r The 


bird to peck at, and a little egg food might 
be given. A sprig of Watercress or Ground¬ 
sel may be given daily, while a piece of cut¬ 
tlefish-bone may be placed between the wires 
of the cage near the perch. Canaries have 
been known to lose their voice through fright 
and shock to the nervous system.—S. S. G. 

POULTRY. 

MANAGEMENT OF FOWLS. 

With the early months in the year many will 
begin to Lhink i»f raising young stock. Others 
that have not embarked in poultry-keeping 
may be induced to do so, from observing the 
high price new-laid eggs made during the last 
three months of the past year. To all the 
latter I would commend the notes that ap¬ 
peared in tlie issue of December 29th, page 
G12, and advise them to carefully read them, 
feeling sure that by so doing they will obtain 
much information. During the thirty years 
I have kept fowls I do not remember having 
read notes more full of information conveyed 
in such a simple and practical way. It is 
such information as this that is helpful to 
those that are desirous of obtaining eggs. 
Exhibiting is good enough in its way, but it is 
eggs and chickens that are wanted. 

In the article I refer to emphasis is laid on 
feeding with warm soft food. Many think this 
a troublesome matter, but it is not so where, 
say, from twenty to thirty fowls are kept. 
For years I have prepared the food over 
night, keeping it warm during the night. In 
the morning I give the fowls this just as they 
come down from roost, and before they drink 
any water. Roosting quarters are of the 
greatest importance. In proof of this I may 
instance my own experience. Having some 
forward pullets last autumn, I fed them well, 
but from circumstances over which I had no 
control they had to roost in a draughty house. 
They did not commence to lay, so I resolved 
to remove a portion to other quarters, where 
they could roost in a low shed. Having a 
thatched hurdle in front, and being in a shel¬ 
tered corner, this roosting place was warm. 
By day they had no better run, or shelter, 
and their feeding was just the same. When 
I divided them I did not give preference to 
the most forward, but selected both pullets 
and two or three one year old birds. In 
about three weeks these commenced to lay, 
continuing for many weeks, while those in the 
draughty house were a fortnight later. When 
the weather became void and frosty they dis¬ 
continued laying for two or three weeks, 
showing the influence shelter and warmth 
had on them. I am convinced it is not a ques¬ 
tion of expensive houses, but selecting the 
best, position you may have where natural 
warmth can be obtained. Small, low, close 
places, and huddling large numbers together, 
are to bo condemned. Rather than have 
either of these I would .see them roost in 
sheltered bushes, such as Holly, etc. 

The longer I have experience of fowls the 
more I see the advantage of close selection, if 
eggs are the object. I am convinced if this 
were given more thought and attention, in 
many cases the egg production would be very 
largely increased. To illustrate this I may 
mention my experience during the past ye!u*. 
In 1905 I bred pullets from some stock I had 
been selecting for three or four years for their 
good laying. These began laying early in 
October, continuing for four or five months, 
when they had a short rest of three or four 
weeks, continuing from that time to the close 
of the following October, when they moulted 
rapidly. In about ten weeks from this one of 
these hens commenced laying again. When I 
hatched these I found I was deficient of 
pullets, and had to purchase some to make up 
my number. Although these were all fed, 
ami had the same run, I consider the ones I 
bought laid 20 per cent, fewer eggs. Per¬ 
sonally I prefer to give double the amount for 
eggs for stock from those who make a study 
of breeding for laying. By this I do not infer 
that it is necessary to in-breed. It is a simple 
matter to obtain a young cockerel from a 
good selected strain if you wish to breed 
from your own hens. It is not a question of 
kinds so much as selection from the best 
laying liens. Dorset. 



Gapes in fowls. —I should feel obliged if you 
could recommend me a cure for gapes? 1 have one 
brood of chicks, five weeks old. 1 have had five die 
already, and others have been attacked. I give them 
plenty of dry food, plenty of fresh water, and they 
are in a nice dry piace, with plenty of room to roam 
about. I have other broods, a fortnight old, which at 
present are all right. I keep them away from the 
other affected brood. A little while ago I had a hen 
troubled with roup. I read of a cure in your paper, 
and it has completely cured it without affecting the 
others.—M. H. 

[The feather and turpentine euro is often 
successful, but there are various other 
remedies for this very troublesome complaint. 
A small worm, or, rather, two, a male and a 
female, connected together, lake lip their 
abode in the chicken's throat; there are many 
couples, as a rule, over thirty having been 
found inside a single chicken. How they get 
there is obscure ; more to the point is the fact 
that the disease is very hard to eradicate, and 
ground on which gapes have broken out one 
year is likely to be the scene of a second 
outbreak a year later if U6ed for chickens. 
That bad water causes it is a plausible theory, 
and as a preventive measure a piece of cam¬ 
phor should be put in the drinking water of 
all the chickens, whether suffering from gapes 
or not. Some poultry-keepers boil all the 
drinking water that the chickens get as a pre¬ 
ventive of gapes. The more common cure is 
a powder composed of quick lime and other 
ingredients. The affected chickens are placed 
in a coop, and a little of the powder is intro¬ 
duced by means of a bellows, which blows it 
about and into the nostrils of the chickens ; 
they cough violently and cough up the worms. 
There are two well-known preparations of 
this nature, and the purchase of a tin is really 
the best way to treat it, but if you prefer to 
rely on home remedies, try the effect of pow¬ 
dered quicklime upon the chickens in such a 
way that they have to cough. There is also 
the carbolic acid cure, but this is more risky, 
and, personally, we do not like it so well. A 
number of chickens are placed in a box with 
a barred floor and subjected to the fumes 
arising from carbolic acid id an iron spoon 
and held over a lamp. A very dense white 
smoke arises, and thus kills the worms, but not 
infrequently the chickens also. There should 
lx? a glass window to the box, so that the 
effect of the fumes on the chickens can be 
watched ; when they are in a state of collapse 
they should be removed. Any worms that are 
coughed up should be burned, not buried. 
The bodies are full of eggs, which have an ex¬ 
traordinary amount of vitality.] 


LAW AND CUSTOM. 

Repairing hedge to keep out horses — We 

should be much obliged if you would give us your 
advice in the following matter:—Our allotment 
gardens are bounded by a hedge, which is our pro¬ 
perty, but in a very bad condition ; on the other side 
is a Held, into which the owner has recently turned 
some horses. These get through the hedge, and 
cause a lot of damage to the gardens. The owner of 
the horses says we must repair the hedge. We think 
lie ought to fence his own held to prevent his horses 
getting off his own property. Kindly advise us in 
your legal column?— J. Buti.kr. 

[The law on the subject is perfectly clear 
and simple. The owner of live stock must 
keep them upon his own land, and his neigh¬ 
bours are not responsible for keeping them off 
their land. In some cases—but they are very 
rare indeed—there is what is termed a pre¬ 
scriptive obligation to fence for the benefit 
of a neighbour who keeps cattle; a definite 
agreement may also be made imposing a 
similar obligation. Unless, however, you and 
your co-tenants of the allotments have made 
any such agreement, or have been in the 
habit, when called upon to do so, of repairing 
your hedge for the benefit of this neighbour, 
you are entitled to sue him for the amount of 
damage done by his horses. The simplest 
method of bringing him to his senses in the 
matter will be to render him a strict and accu¬ 
rate account of the damage done, with an in¬ 
timation that unless payment is forthcoming 
at once you will sue for the amount in the 
County Court, adding further that if the tres¬ 
passes are repealed an injunction will be ap¬ 
plied for. If he does not'pay let a solicitor 
act for you ; lie will lie itble to recover the 
amount v, 3llft ^ 'ln8 , own r 

b arriht^B B A N A ~ C HAM P AIG N 




March 23, 1907 


51 


gaiiduxiA'G 


i llusth.it 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

Questions.— Queries and amicers are inserted in 
Garden l no free of charge if correspondents follow these 
rules: All communications should be clearly and concisely 
written on one side of the paper only, and addressed to 
the Editor of Gardening, 17, Fumival-strcet, Uolbom, 
London, E.C. Letters on business should be sent to the 
Publisher. The name and address of the sender are 
required in addition to any designation he may desire to 
be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, 
each shouhl be. on a separate piece of paper , and not more 
than three queries should be sent at a time. Correspond 
(Units should bear in mind that, as Gardening Aa# to be 
sent to press some time in advance, of date, queries cannot 
a heaps be replied to in the issue immediately following 
the receipt of their communication. We do not reply to 
queries by post. 

Naming fruit.— Readers who desire our help in 
•naming fruit should bear in mind that sere rat specimens 
in different stages of colour and sire of the. same kind 
yrcat I y assist in its determination. We have received from 
several correspondents single specimens of fruits for 
naming, these in many cases being unripe, and other¬ 
wise poor. The differences between varieties of fruits are 
in many cases so tri/ting that it is necessary that three 
specimens of each kind should be sent. We can undertake 
to name only four varieties at a time, and these only when 
the above directions are observed. 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

Maranta Kerchoveana (Syn. Calathea Kercho¬ 
veana) (//.).—This ia the name of the plant, leaves of 
which you send. All the Marantas require a compost 
of a rough nature, such as peat and fibrous loam 
pulled to pieces with the hand and a liberal sprinkling 
of sand. They need a shady position in the ttove. 

Pampas Grass (A. M. /».).—We should strongly 
advise you to purchase a strong plant, as seedlings 
vary so much. No plant better repays a thorough 
preparation of the soil, and the finest specimens are 
always to be found in quiet, sheltered nooks. The 
Pampas Grass should be planted about the beginning 
of April, in deep, open soil, mulched well with rotten 
manure, and watered freely in hot, dry weather. The 
sexes are borne on separate plants in all the species, 
and the plumes of male flowers are neither so hand¬ 
some nor so durable ns those of female flowers. 

Calceolarias in cold frames (If.).—As the 
plunts are (growing spindly they should be stopped; 
but this spindly growth must be because the glass 
lights have been kept too closely over them. It is 
now time to replant them in the frames, so that the 
plants may have more space to grow. They should 
be at least 4 Inches asunder. If they are strong 
plants as much ns 6 inches may be allowed between 
each, so that they may have ample space to grow 
into nice bushy specimens by the end of April, when 
it is time to plant them out in the flower-garden. 

Recess for Ferns (Fish ).—Your suggestion to 
cover the walls with zinc, in order to keep the wood 
dry, seems to us a very good one, as without this, 
when decay sets in, fungus would be very likely to 
give trouble. A further coating of cork inside this 
will also help to keep out the frost, for it does not 
readily penetrate the cork. Of course, you might 
employ hardy Ferns, which the frost would not hurt; 
hut even then, just as they became well established, 
fungus from the decaying wood might injure them. 
For this reason your suggestion is, we think, the 
best. Gold-fish will thrive in a greenhouse kept ut 
the temperature named by you. 

Plants for shaded rock-garden (E. B. Poland). 
—Ouite a large number of plants would be suitable 
for such a rock-garden, and you can select from the 
following: Mossy Saxifrages, Phlox setacea vars., 
P. amoena, P. Nelsoni, Campanula pumila and its 
forms, C. garganica, C. turbinata, C. pulla, C. mura- 
lis, Saxifraga granulata plena, Megnseas, Aubrietias, 
Arenarius, Anemone rivularis, A. nemorosa in its 
many forms, Hopnticas, Adonis, Kamondias, Primula 
rosea, P. denticulata, Gentiana yprna, Omphalodes 
verna, Silene alpestris, etc. These are all of dwarf 
habit, but there are others of taller growth, and 
equally serviceable, that could have been named bad 
you given us some idea of the space. 

Iris japonica (Want to Know).—This, also known 
as I. chinensis and I. flmbriata, is a lovely winter- 
flowering greenhouse plant, producing spikes of bloom 
IS inches in height, the individual flowers about 
4 inches across, of a pale blue-mauve colour, blotched 
with bright yellow and fimbriated at the edges. 
.Sandy loam and peat suit it well, and it always 
blooms best when in a pot-bound condition. Re- 
jKitting should always be done after the flowers have 
withered, but only when absolutely necessary. While 
making its foliage a plentiful supply of water is ne¬ 
cessary, with occasional doses of weak liquid-manure. 
The temperature of the house should never fall 
below 45 degs. From the above you will see that it is 
prejudicial to the plant to pot it every season. 

Wall plant in vinery (T. IF.).-It would not be 
wise to plant a Stephanotis in your vinery, as it is 
so subject to bug or scale, and would soon cause your 
Vines to become infested with the pest; besides 
which, you would have to keep up a certain warmth 
always, and thus you would be unable to give your 
Vines any rest. As you want something that would 
do in comparative shade, yet cover the wall, be 
moderately hardy, and prove useful, we can advise 
you of nothing better than Asparagus plumosus. It 
you could once get it strong enough to send up 
numerous growths to the top of the back wall it. 
would never cease being green, and furnish a wealtli 
of feathery foliage for cutting. It would be a good 
plan to plant two or three of these from pots. 

Cineraria-leaves drooping (D .).—It is not un¬ 
common for the Cineraria-leaves at the bases of the 
plants to droop as yoiuw- 40 . It arises first from the 
roota_getting overwatffed, antl|seccnd-4r®i>^|ip leaves 
not Igbtting enough clLlit!|il!W-> aA-mli^e they are 
flaccid ami thin, am^raTinof sust*™ ihFTr weight 


when the sun shines and absorbs moisture from them 
rapidly. As a rule, Cinerarias arc too much crowded ! 
in greenhouses and frames, and the lower leafage is 
then deprived of light and air. That your Azaleas nre 
infested with thrips leads to the inference that they 
have been during the winter kept in a dry atmos¬ 
phere, or else that the soil is impoverished and dry. 
Probably frequent syringings with soapy water and 
shifting the plants into larger pots with fresh soil 
would rectify matters. 

Increasing Dahlias (G. S.).— If you desire to in- I 
crease your stock it will he much better to take | 
cuttings and strike them than to attempt to divide 
the old roots, this being a difficult and generally un¬ 
satisfactory method. Put them (one of each Bort, at , 
least) into heat at once, and when the young shoots , 
are 2$ inches long, take them oil with a sharp knife, 
and insert thorn round tlie sides of well-drained Sj-inch 
pots filled will) very sandy soil, five or six in each. 
Keep them moderately close, moist, and shaded in a 
frame over a hot-bed, or in a warm-house or pit, and 
when rooted and growing pot them otf singly into 
;t-inch sizes—this is all the (lotting required—harden 
them oil in May, and plant out early in June. Re¬ 
member, that if you take all the shoots from a root, 
and cut each quite close, it will very likely not break 
again. 

Old Cyclamen corms (M. A., Acton).— You say 
nothing as to the treatment you give your old ; 
corms, and on this depends whether failure or sue- 1 
cess follows. The old corms arc often cast on one , 
side, perhaps placed under the greenhouse stage or in 
some out-of-the-way corner, with the result that the 
plants suffer from want of moisture, the foliage falls | 
a prey to insects, and eventually the plants are en¬ 
tirely denuded of their leaves. Such treatment is 
entirely wrong. We have just seen corms that have 
been grown on for about five years flowering as 
freely as young ones. Die blooms, loo, handsome 
and well developed on stout footstalks. Some few 
years ago corms seven years old were shown before 
the Royal Horticultural Society, most of the plants j 
then carrying 20U flowers, and in some cases a larger 
number. 

Edging-plants (O. S.).— Some of the white or 
grey foliuged plants make distinct and useful edg¬ 
ings. Cerastium tomentosum, Hantolina incana, 
Staehys lanata are all white or grey plants, and are 
quite hardy. tJrdum glaucum, Festuca glauca arc dis¬ 
tinct, and being hardy are not difficult to keep or 
propagate. Antennaria tomentosa (the Snow-plant) ! 
is a neat edging-plant, also hardy. Another hardy I 
plant of a permanent character can lie lmd in the 
Silver-leaved Kuonymus (E. radican.s variegatus). The 
edgings of this plant when well established will last 
for years. In edging beds it is always desirable to 
use as many hardy plants as possible. All the plants 
named above are hardy, and there are others. Her- 
niaria glabra makes a neat edging, and the variegated 
Coltsfoot is a grand edging for large beds. The 
purple-leaved variety of the Bugle-flower (Ajuga 
reptans purpurea), and the Golden Thyme will give 
variety. 

Treatment of newly - potted Stephanotis 

(//. M. A.).—In order to give your Stephauotis as 
good a chance as possible to recover from the state 
in which it now is, it should be shaded from the 
direct rays of the sun, and syringed two or three 
times a day in order to prevent too rapid an evapora¬ 
tion from the branches and remaining leaves. The 
watering at the root, too, must be managed with 
great care, and, above all, an excess must be avoided. 
With this treatment it is possible, though all the 
leaves may drop, young shoots will be pushed out as 
soon as the roots begin to recover from the check 
they have received. The plant should not be pruned 
in any way until it is possible to see the full amount 
of the check it ha9 experienced. Then very likely it 
will be seen that many of the young shoots have 
died back, in which case the dead portions must, of 
course, be removed. With the treatment given to | 
cuttings of stove plants in general, those of the 
Stephanotis should root. 

Plants for inside rockery ( M.D ., F.R.C.S.).— 
Without any idea of the position of the greenhouse 
and the amount of sun it receives, one is severely 
handicapped in advising, as many structures in close , 
proximity to the dwelling-house are too much shaded 
for flowering plants in general to grow therein. The 
mixture of hardy subjects und those requiring fire- 
heat in winter is not at all likely to prove successful, 
and we should be inclined to plant the rookwork with 
hardy Ferns, of which, though many are deciduous, 
a good selection of evergreen kinds might be made. 
Thus there are the innumerable varieties of I’oly- 
podium vulgare, and also of the Hart's Tongue Fern 
(Seolopendrium vulgare). with many forms of Adian- 
turn capillus-Veneris (Maiden-hair), and Asplenium 
Adiantum-nigruni, Asplenium Trichomanes, while 
Aspidium nnculare. represented hy several varie¬ 
ties, retains its leaves well. In such a protected I 
place the Camellias might do without fire heat, hut ' 
the question is whether the winter would not prove I 
too much for the Lupageriu. Ferns of a rather more < 
tender nature—that is, the hardiest of the green- ■ 
house kinds—might be employed if frost is just ex- 1 
eluded from the house, and then the Lnpageria 
would be likely to thrive, as the atmosphere suitable 
for Ferns is also to the liking of the Lapagerin. It 
would, we think, be necessary to employ a portable 
stove, as the house does not appear to lend itself to 
any arrangement of hot-water piping. Alpine plant* 
in general would, we fear, miss the free circulation 
of air so necessary for this class of subjects. Please 
note our rules as to questions being written on one 
side of the paper only. 

TREES AND SHRUBS. 

Treatment of Hydrangea (Constantine).— The 
pruning required will depend upon tlie kind of 
Hydrangea you have. If yours is the common one, 
tiie weak and exhausted shoots towards the centre of 
the plant 3hould lie cut out, as it is the strong ones 
now showing prominent terminal buds that produce 
the finest heads of blossoms. If, on lhe other hand, 


yours is a plant of Hydrangea panlculata grandi- 
llora, the weak shoots must he cut out, and the 
cane-like branches (the growths of last year) should 
be cut back to within two or three eyes of the base. 
It is tile shoots made from these eyes that will de¬ 
velop and flower next August. The common 
Hydrangea bears pink flowers in large rounded heads, 
while In U. pauiculata grandiflora they are of a. 
creamy tint, and disposed in more of a pyramidal- 
shaped cluster. 

FRUIT. 

Seedling Oranges [.Cecil).— Your seedling Orange- 
trees may be years before they show any bloom. The 
Orange-plants sold by nurserymen have all been 
grafted with good kinds, und this is the only way to 
ensure early fruit-bearing. April is a good month 
for grafting, and any gardener should be able to do 
it for you. If, however, you prefer to wait for the 
seedlings to flower, then )uu had better grow them 
on, shitting them if need be into larger pota—a size 
larger than those in which they now are—using a 
compost of sweet turfy loam, with some peat, leaf- 
soil, and sand. Keep the plants close for a week or 
two, then in June stand them outdoors to ripen the 
wood. They will probably bloom in a year or two. 
You must see to it that the plants are kept very 
clean, as the Orange is very liable to be attacked by- 
scale. 

Dead fruit tree bark (A. B. T.).—As your pre¬ 
sent Apple tree, Dunielow's Seedling, 4 years planted, 
is probably dying because you find the bark encasing 
the stem near the ground to be dead, and a pre¬ 
vious tree died in tin- same way, it is evident either 
that the two trees were worked oti stocks that were 
unsuitable, and have died, or else Unit the surface 
soil has in it something that is poisonous, although 
that seems highly improbable, seeing that Die tree 
has lived apparently healthy for four years. How¬ 
ever, you can try drawing away the soil from the 
stem down a few inches, then making up a mixture 
of clay, cow-dung, and well-beaten horse-droppings. 
Just wet enough, then coat over the stem thoroughly 
so far as it seems dead, and see whether it may keep 
the upper bark alive. Possibly it may he well to 
scrape off just the dead outer bark first. We should 
like to hear later whether the tree still lives or 
perishes. 

VEGETABLES. 

Tomatoes in span-house (S.).— Presumably, you 
wish to grow your Tomato-plants in single rows on 
either side of your span-house, having them trained 
iqi under the roof. T 1 ie neatest way to make a roof- 
trellis is to strain wires along under the roof about 
10 inches apart from end to end, and about 9 inches 
from the roof or glass. Pointed iron holdfasts, with 
eyelet holes in their extremities, to carry the wires 
through, should be driven, or, better still, screwed 
into the rafters at about 0 feet apart. All depends 
on the length of the house. These wires should be 
strained tight. Failing wires, have laths or some 
slight wood trellis fixed to tie the plants to. Toma¬ 
toes bear any amount of sunshine, but whilst the 
sun is hot they should have plenty of air. Your 
plants should be about 18 inches apart, every side 
shoot being hard pinched. 


SHORT REPLIES. 

Amateur.— 1, Cabbages and Brussels Sprouts are 
totally different. Good Brussels Sprouts are Aigburlh 
and The Paragon. 2, “ Orchids: Their Culture and 
Management.’' Illustrated. Price 2fis. Any bookseller 
could get this for you. Camellia. Your )>est plan will 
l>e to write to Messrs. W. Paul and Son, Waltham Cross, 
London, N., who grow a full collection of Camellias, in¬ 
cluding double, semi-double, and single kinds.- Mrs. 

Kempston. —See article and illustration of Megasea Jigu- 
lata in our issue of September 15, 19)0, p. 30'.), a copy of 
which can be had of the publisher, post free, for Hd. — 
Cecil.— 'Certainly you must clear out all the dead and 
decaying rubbish. An easy w-av is to set the clump on 
fire, as detailed in our issue of February 24, 1900, p. G82. 

-- Arthur V. Butler.— Apply the sulphate of ammonia 

at the rate of 5 lb. per rod early in April.- C. Bernard 

Ward.—Vie know of no book dealing with the subject to 
which you refer. We shall be pleased to answer any 

queries on the subject you may send us.- J. It. Jacobs. 

— See reply to “ A. F.," re " Management of Gold-fish." in 

our issue of March 10, p. 40.- E. II. Stokes. —Your 

Violets have been attacked by the Violet fungus. Sec 
reply to “ Herefordshire Reader” in our issue of March 2, 
p. 12. — L. E. />.^The flowers of Cyclamens must l*e 
(•tilled out and not cut, as when cut the piece of the 

flower stalk left decays and causes trouble.- A. C It — 

Kindly say what Palm you refer to and also the class of 
Rose you inquire aljout. Are they H.P.’s, H.T.'s, or 
Teas, as the class of Rose is all-important as far as 
pruning is concerned. 


NAMES OF PLANTS AND FRUITS. 

Names of plants. --Win. Blue.—C rossula sp. r 
probably C. lactea,but. to be sure must see in bloom.- 
Robert Greening.— Please send in flower. Must see in 

bloom to be certain as to name.- Mrs. Sanders. — Strop- 

tosolen (Browallia) .lameeoni.- Cecil.— Cannot name 

from the description you give. Seeing the bulb has 
rooted, it will soon start into growth, and in all proba¬ 
bility flower,- Mrs. Kempston. —1, The Rose Campion 

is Agrostemma coronaria, syn. Lychnis coronaria ; 2, 
Impossible to name with any certainty without seeing the 

flowers.- A. B.— 41, Sempervivmn ilaworthi; 40. Lvgo- 

dium scandens ; 42, Echeveria retusa. — //.—Maranta 

Kerchoviana.- A nr*mis. —The Mexican Orange-flower 

(Choioya temata).- M. E. G.— The Honey-plant (Hoy* 

carnosa). 

Name of fruit.—//. Stewart.— Apple, we think, i» 
Lady Henniker. 


Catalogue received. Andre Deleuil fils, Hyeres 
t ar), France. Price Li t of Caiman. 



GARDENING- ILLUSTRATED 


Ko. 1,46 I.—You XXIX. 


Founded by IF. Robinson, Author of ''The English Flower Garden .' 


MARCH 30, 1907. 


INDEX. 


AuiujtIUr Fiw huriana .. f0 
Anemones .. . 61 

Anemone, \Voo»l, "Jack¬ 
in the-Green " .. W 

Apples for espaliers .. 65 
Apple-tree cankered .. 08 
Asparagus pluuio&us .. 68 
A${aragu8 quarters .. 60 
Aspidistra flowering .. 03 
Azaleas, hxrriy .. .. 55 

Azaleas, t-hrips on .. 68 
Basic &lag and nitrate of 

sod* .60 

Big-hud, the cure for .. 65 
Camellias dropping their 

hm is .68 

Christmas Hoses, plant¬ 
ing .60 

Chrysanthemums, divi¬ 
ding early-flowering .. C2 ' 


, Chrysanthemums, early- 
| flowering — treatment 
of young plants.. .. 61 

j Chrysanthemums — stop- 
| ping ami timing .. 62 

Collotias ami Disc-arias, 
the .. .. .. 56 

Conservatory .. .. 67 

(’rassula coceinea .. 68 

Cucumbers.67 

Cucumbers failing .. 68 

Cypripedium Alcibiadea t4 
Dtutzia gracilis .. 68 

i Effects of frost in the 
AVcat of England, the 55 
Eulalia japoniea variegata 57 
Ferns under glass .. 67 

Flowering plants for 

October.58 

Fruit garden .. 67 


Fuchsias, .standard .. 58 
Garden pests and friends 56 
c lardcn work .. .. 67 

Grafting-wax, making .. 68 
Helxine Soleiroll in pots 
for furnishing .. ..58 

Imposition, a new form of 68 
Indoor p ants .. .. 57 

Iris reticuluta after flow¬ 
ering in pota .. .. 68 

Lackey-moth, the .. 68 
Laurel, the Camphor .. 56 
Lavender plants, cutting 

down old.40 

Leeks, growing .. .. 68 

Libonia floribunda after 

blooming. 68 

Lilium auratum in i>oU 58 
Mourning Iris, the .. 68 
Orchids .64 


Orchids, growing cool .. 64 

Outdoor garden .. .. 67 

Outdoor plants .. .. 59 

Psoonies, single .. .. 59 

Pear-midge, the .. 56 

Pears, treatment of cor¬ 
don .65 

Plants and flowers .. 57 
Plants for baskets .. 68 
Plants for border., 68 

Plants for damp soil .. 68 
Plants for window-case 68 
Plants, hardy, in a town 

garden.60 

Plants on the Grass, 
summer-flowering .. 61 
Plants, repotting hard- 
wooded .67 

Plants under green¬ 
house stage .. .. f8 


Plants, tabic ..68 

Potatoes, forcing.. .. 60 

Potatoes, immature seed 66 

Pot-Roses.62 

Prickly Poppy (Argo mono 

hispida.61 

Primroses.GO 

Primulas at. Reading . 57 
Raspberry-canes, cut¬ 
ting down .. .. 08 

Rock foil, the Ivy-leaved 
(Saxifraga cymbalaria) 59 
Room ana window .. 63 
Rose-bushes at Easter, 

removing.63 

Rose Climbing Devoni- 
eiiBis on arches .. .. 62 

Rom> Com tease de Saxe.. 63 
Rose stocks .. .. «3 

Roses.62 


Roses, priming 62 

Hcukale, culture of .. 66 
Shrubs in the greenhouse 
at Kew, forced .. .58 

Shrubs, pruning newly- 

planted .56 

Stove.. .67 

Straw berries in pots .. 65 
Strawberry The LnxLon 
for forcing .. .. 65 

Thunl»rgia( llexacentm) 
mysorenis .. .. 58 

Tomato-house, heating a 66 
Trees ami shrubs .. 55 
Vegetable garden .. 67 

Vegetables. 66 

Week's work, the coming 67 
Window-boxes .. 67 

Winter Kales, too early 

sowing off .. ., C 6 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 


THE EFFECTS OF FROST IN THE 
WEST OF ENGLAND. 

To the Editor of Gardening Illustrated. 

Sir, Perhaps my experience of the hardi¬ 
ness of certain plants during the recent 
severe weather may be of interest to others 
"ho, like myself, are making a small collec¬ 
tion of flowering shrubs. 

My garden is on the side of a hill facing 
north, is much exposed to winds from that 
quarter, and from the west, and, though 
surrounded by a wall, little protection is 
afforded thereby, except to within a few yards 
of it. All the plants mentioned have been 
planted within the last three years. On a 
w all facing south-west Solatium jasminoides 
w as cut to the ground, but Acacia cultrifor 
inis, A. longissima, and A. spiralis were 
uninjured. On another facing east, Sollya 
hcterophvlla and Acacia Kiceana escaped. 
Against the south-side of the house Ficus 
minima. Acacia leprosa and A. pulehella, 
with J as m inum primulinum, showed no ill 
effects, and on the east side Acacia hispidis- 
eima, A. diffusa, ami Ceanothus rigidus 
escaped. Ceanothus Indigo, Clematis indi¬ 
visa lobata, and Lonieera Hildebrandti were, 
however, damaged, though not severely ; the 
latter two were protected by a lattice screen. 
In one border the following were unhurt: — 
Pittosporum crassifolium, P. Colensoi, 1*. 
Tobira, P. Tobira var., P. tennifolium, 
P. eugeuioides var., Olearia nitida, Hoheria 
populnea, Plagianthus Lvalli, Eucryphia 
pinnatifolia, and Tricuspid&ria lanceolata. 
Those injured were Pittosporum eugeuioides, 
Carpentaria californica, Olearia argophylla, 
and Abelia floribunda; one death occurred, 
Solanum nviculare. Further on, with the 
same aspect, Illicium floridanum. I. religio- 
suni, Fendlera rupicola, Davidia iuvolucrata, 
Senecio Grayi, S. Fosteri, Abelia rupestris, 
Acacia melanoxylon, Leptospermuin bulla- 
tum, and Sarcococca pruniformis all held 
their own, whilst Edwardsia Macnabiana was 
badly cut, and Diplacus glutinosus destroyed. 
Beyond these, and in the same line. Acacia 
arinata. Cyuidium carinatura, Meliosma 
mvriantha, and Teucritim latifolium barely | 
felt the pinch. Grevillea Prcissii was, how¬ 
ever. killed. 

Elsewhere, on an easterly bank, Grevillea 
alpina, G. sulphurea, Pernettya ciliaris, and 
EscaUonia langleyeusis escaped. Olearia 
inacropbylla was slightly damaged, and Escal- 
lonia montevidensis, Euonymus albo-mar- 
ginatus, and some Veronicas were badly cut. 
Close bv Cotoneaster augustifolia shed a few 
leaves, but not sufficient to mar th? sym¬ 
metry of the plant, which grows vigorously, 
and is full of flower-buds. In a cold north¬ 
west border Lagerstrcemia indica, Cyrilla 
memiflora, Pittosporum Ralphi, Coton¬ 
easter frigida. C. pannosa, Idesia. polvcarpa, 
Piptanthus nepalensis^ahd VeronimJ Lvalli 
did not suffer in thR\kajt^Jhotlqla| terru- 



lata, Veronica Gauntletti, and Veronica Red¬ 
ruth were badly cut, and the so-called hardy 
Lauropetalum chinense was practically 
killed. Myoporum sp. was quite de¬ 
stroyed. In other parts of the garden four 
plants of Eriostemon neriifolium and myo- 
poroides show no signs of climatic troubles, 
as also Berberis Knighti. and in a sheltered 
spot Berberis nepalcnsis and Calceolaria 
violacea. Three plants of Coronilla glauca 
have flowered continuously since November, 
and even now show no signs of resting ; they 
seem absolutely indifferent to climate, aspect, 
or soil, and should certainly be more gener¬ 
ally planted. 

I have specially mentioned the more un¬ 
common plants. aS it is concerning these that 
information is likely to be needed. 

Truro. K. C. Ciietwood-Aiken. 

--The recent severe weather has killed 

such a number of plants in the sub tropical 
gardens here (coast of Dorset) that I am in¬ 
duced to write a few notes on the genera and 
species which may bo of interest and, per¬ 
haps, of some use to those who intend plant¬ 
ing Australian, South American, and other 
plants of a tropical and semi-tropical nature j 
in similar localities. The. gardens here are 
frequently likened to the Garden of Eden by 
visitors in the summer-time, but had they 
visited them on Saturday, January 26th, when 
there were 4 inches of snow nearly all over 
the gardens, and 3 feet in depth in places 
where it had drifted, the thermometer regis¬ 
tering 16 degs. Falir. of frost all the time, I 
think their idea of a similitude to the Garden 
of Eden would have been shattered. In the 
spring of 1905 I planted out between 400 and 
500 young Acacias and Eucalypti, and 
nearly all of them are killed. The species of 
Acacia killed are as follows : A. floribunda, 
A. cuneata. A. Eielrichiana. A. longifolia, 
A. microbotrys, A. liarpophylla, A. ricini- 
folia. A. eburnea, A. armata, A. fnlcata, A. 
myrtifolia, A. rosfcellifera, A. saligna, A. 
trinervis, A. verticillata. 

The smaller plants of Acacia dealbata are 
[ nearly all killed, but, fortunately, the large 
plants, which were raised in 1896, and are 
now about 40 feet to 50 feet ill height, are 
perfectly safe. It lias always been considered 
that Acacia floribunda was the hardiest 
species, but I think, without exception, all are 
killed, even plants up to 20 feet high. A. 
melanoxylon has survived in places ; in fact, 
this has stood much better than A. flori¬ 
bunda, although some specimens of A. melan- 
oxylon 20 feet high have been quite killed. 
A. rostellifera, A. verticillata, A. Riceana, 
A. extensa, A. trinervis, A. longifolia, are all 
killed, and other specie,* have suffered. 

The species of Eucalyptus which have been 
killed are as follows: E. corynocalyx, E. 
crebra. E. eorymbosa, E. amygdalina, E. bi¬ 
color, E. coriacea, E. eugenioides, E. fici- 
folia, E. paniculata, E. mclliodora (even 
plants 35 feet high), E. pilularis, E. sidero- 
phloia, E. maculata, E. viminalis, E. “Fodd 
Bay,” E. goniocalyx, E. Gunni, E. leucoxy- 


lon, E. platypus, E. Risdoni, E. punctata, E. 
poly an them os. E. rostrata, E. Stuartiana. E. 
globulus, E. Gunni, E. urnigera, E. cooei- 
fera, and E. cordata have survived. The 
hardiest species, in my opinion, are E. urni¬ 
gera, E. coccifera, and E. cordata. 

The Bamboo family has stood very well. 
The only species killed outright are Arundi- 
naria Iiookeri and A. spathiflora. The fol¬ 
lowing species suffered severely, but, I think, 
will survive: Dcmlrocalamus Faleoneri, Bam- 
busa gracilis, and D. Decaisneana. We have 
a collection of seventeen Buddleias, but they 
all escaped except B. madugascariensis, B. 
asiatica, and B. Columbia', which are killed 
outright. Buddlcia auriculata being injured 
badly. The New Zealand Laburnum (Ed¬ 
wardsia grandiflora and E. microphylla) have 
suffered much ; all the leaves are falling off 
fast, but the flowers arc still safe. The plan Is 
have suffered more than they have been 
known to do previously. We took great care 
of all our big plants of Cordyline australis, 
otherwise they would have been killed. Some 
of the stems are over 20 feet high. We have, 
however, lost about tine dozen plants. Cordy- 
line atropurpurea. I think, is quite killed. 
There is a good collection of Senecios grown 
here. Species not hardy enough to stand 
more than an ordinary winter are Senecio 
eleaguifolia, S. grandiflora, S. Forsteri, and 
S. Grayi. The following have either suf¬ 
fered severely or have been killed : Bcsehcor- 
neria yueeoides, Furcroya longmva, Aloe fru- 
tescens, A. maculata, A. ferox. Agave ferox, 
A. applanata, A. mitriformis, A. Melleri, and 
A. Houlletiana. The miscellaneous plants 
that have been killed include Callistenion 
stvphelioides. Melaleuca tomentosa, Ehretia 
serrata (acuminata), Guevina avellnna, Wes- 
tringia rosniariniforrais. Grevillea longifolia, 
Coronilla glauca, C. valentina, and C. vimi¬ 
nalis, Olearia argvrophylla. Even Bays, 
Portugal Laurels, Myrtles, Eugenia, Pitto- 
sporums, and Escallonias suffered very much, 
but are not killed outright. 

Altogether, this has lx*en considered the 
most severe winter for many years, and it lias 
thrown us back a long way. Still, the Magno¬ 
lias, Himalayan Rhododendrons, Camellias, 
and Azaleas arc so full of bloom that there 
will bo a good show, but I grieve very much 
over those that are killed, as they would have 
been such good plants with this season's 
growth. The chief lesson to be learnt is to 
plant tender things in as sheltered positions 
as possible.—H. Kemtshall, Abbotshury 
Castle. Gardens, Dorsetshire , in The Gar¬ 
deners* Chronicle. 


Hardy Azaleas.— A brief note suggesting 
the more extended use of the Azalea in the 
outdoor garden is not uncalled for, as the 
number of gardens in which the best of the 
hardy Azaleas are grown is but a limited 
one. There are, indeed, whole districts with 
only one or two gardens in which one can 
sec anything but the old yellow one,_ which 
is frequently'seen in great., overgrown, un- 









GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


March 30, 1907 


cared-for plants. On the other hand, there conclusively proved. The first recorded in¬ 
ure places where the various hardy Azaleas stance of the two forms growing on one 
are great features. Those who visit the branch occurred in 1877, but it has happened 
Temple show will be familiar with the class many times since, and branches showing this 
of Azaleas I am referring to. Seedlings peculiarity have been frequently exhibited, 
without names are much cheaper than the i n no other shrub that I can recall is there 
named varieties, and may be hud at a moder- suc> h a marked instance of dimorphism as 
ate price. The colours of some of these are this. The Discarias are nearly related to the 
truly glorious, but it may be remarked that , Colletias ; indeed, the species most generally 

they do not harmonise with those of the fine „ rovvn _ 

hybrid Rhododendrons. Although not ever- ; ° ~ 

• • • e Discaria sebratiiolia is quite as often 


green, thev have what is even a greater com- .... , „ - , _ ,, 

pensation, in the magnificent colouring of the ! me J ™th under the generic name of Colletia 
dying leaves. S. A. as it is that of Discana. It forms an upright 

' b _ shrub, a dozen feet or so in height, whose 

minor branches droop over in a very graceful 
1 HE COLLE1IAS AND DISCARIAS. manner. They are long, slender, and clothed 
These two nearly allied genera belong to the with ovate, oblong-shaped leaves, nearly an 
Rhamnue or Buckthorn family, but in general | inch in length, and of a bright dark green 
appearance they are widely removed from any colour. The upper surface is very glossy, 
of their relatives; indeed, they (and especi- Each joint id armed with a pair of stiff, 
ully the Colletias), stand out as, perhaps, the slender, very sharp thorns. The small green- 
most singular of all shrubs that we have in ish-white flowers are borne in clusters in the 


dying leaves. —S. A. 


THE COLLETIAS AND DISCARIAS. 


our gardens. axils of the leaves for a considerable distance 

Colletia cruciata, a shrub from 4 feet to along the shoots, and w’hile a well-grown 
8 feet in height, or even more under very j specimen is very ornamental, the fragrance of 
favourable conditions, may, perhaps, be best \ the blossoms is also an agreeable feature, 
described as built up % 

of large triangular, 
woody, flattened 
spines, in vigorous 
examples 1^ inches in 
diameter at the base. 

These spines are ar¬ 
ranged in pairs, each 
pair set crosswise to 
the next. Practically 
there are no leaves, 
though occasionally a 
few appear on the 
new wood. They are 
but small, and ovate 
in shape. T h e 
flowers, which from 
their shape and wax¬ 
like nature suggest a 
certain resemblance 
to those of a Heath, 
are whitish in colour, 
and have a pleasing 
fragrance. They are 
borne during tho 
autumn, and in 
favourable conditions 
often throughout a 
good part of the win¬ 
ter, either singly, or 
in clusters from the 
lower sides of the 
large flat spines. 

Being produced very 
freely, a bush when 
at its best is both 
singular and de¬ 
cidedly ornamental. 

Although the few 
leaves drop during 
the winter, this Col¬ 
letia may be regarded Flowering shoot of Colletia spinosa. From a photograph in a Surrey garde r 
in the light of an 
evergreen, as the 

spines are of a deep green colour. I All of the above arc natives of Urug 

Colletia spinosa. known also as C. hor- Chili, and Peru, and in this country gene 



Flowering- shoot of Colletia spinosa. From a photograph in a Surrey garden. 


spines arc of a deep green colour. I All of the above arc natives of Uruguay, 

Colletia SPINOSA. known also as C. hor- i Chili, and Pt*ru, and in this country generally 
rida, is in manner of growth very similar to | are not particularly hardy. In the London 
C. cruciata, but instead of tho spines being district, if planted in a well-drained and 
triangular they are in C. spinosa from 1 inch fairly sheltered spot, they are seldom injured 
to H inch long, slender, very sharp, and to any extent in the winter, but are seen to 
slightly flattened. Like those of’the preceding better advantage in the extreme south, and 
kind, they remnin green throughout the year, especially favoured south-west of the country. 

Though the two Colletias above referred to Other species of Discaria in cultivation, but 
are as garden plants quite distinct from each very rarely met with, are D. longispina, from 
other, the Kew Hand List contains but one Uruguay ; and D. Toumatou, the “ Wild 


species—viz., C. cruciata, the other being in¬ 
cluded in the list of synonyms. This raises a 
very interesting phase of the question, as for 
many years after their introduction in 1824 
they were looked upon ns totally distinct 


Irishman,” of New Zealand. X. 

NOT ICS AND HE PLIES. 

The Camphor Laurel (Cinnainomnin Cuinpliora). 


Tlip fir*! in rnifvUinn th,. -Hie enclosed plant has beta raised from seed sent 

species. me tirst to qu«stion tills was the | (rom AustraHllt and by the „ n(leI camphor 

late Mr. Jame6 Barnes, of Bicton, in Devon- 1 Laurel. I cannot find it in any gardening book. Can 
shire, who from seed of C. spinosa raised a | you kindly give me any information concerning it— 
plant of C. cruciata. Specimens of this last ;is . M to ' ts treatment, habits, etc —and aBo whether it 
„ . . . r . T • 1 ! . . i ii- will grow oiit-of-ilooi-fi in England? The seed was 

were sent to Di. Lmdlej, who, overlooking sen t f ro m near Brisbane, and smells strongly of 
the fact that it had been already named and ! eamphor.-C. E. King. 

described, called it C- Bictonensis, under j [The term Camphor Laurel is often applied 
which name it is still sometimes found in to the true Camphor, now known as Cinna- 
gnrdeus and nurseries. The statement of Mr. momum Cnmphora. It was previously known 
Baines aroused a good deal of controversy, as Laurus C'amphora and Camphora officiu- 
and it was manv v/nr£ after ♦haLwhen it was alis. Though vour plant is verv small, we 

Digitized glC 


have little doubt that it is the true Camphor, 
and for this reason it is very interesting. 
The Camphor is an evergreen tree, native of 
China and Japan, from which countries most 
of our supply of camphor is obtained. It is 
not hardy in England, but will thrive with 
ordinary greenhouse treatment. In the ex- 
tremelv favoured districts of the south-west 
it might possibly grow in the open air if a 
sheltered spot is chosen for it.] 

Pruning newly.planted shrubs —Kindly in¬ 
form me if the shrubs named below, which have only 
just been planted, should be pruned this spring (many 
of them have shoots from the base 2 feet or 3 feet 
long, which are now budding)Sulix rosmarinifolia, 
Cytisus Scoparius, Deutzia crenata, D. Lemoinej, 
Artemisia Abrotanum, Salix regalis, Tamarisks, and 
Cornus sibirica?—W orksop. 

[Do not prune any of the shrubs named this 
season, but allow' them to become established 
first.] _ 

GARDEN PE8T8 AND FRIEND8. 

The Pear midge. — A well-grown standard Pear- 
tree in my garden blossomed grandly last yeur. Tho 
fruits formed, but soon after became discoloured, and 
on opening 1 found them full of maggots. What can 
1 do to stop repetition of the loss of crop? The tree 
again promises to blossom well.-C onstantine. 

[From your note it is evident that your 
Pears were destroyed by the larvie of the 
Pear-midge (Diplosis pyrivora), which works 
great havoc among the Pear crops annually, 
and is a most difficult insect to deal with, as 
spraying and the application of such remedies 
as are found to be efficacious in regard to lire 
destruction of other insect pests are not of 
the slightest avail in this case. A brief ac¬ 
count of the life history of the Pear-midgo 
may, perhaps, enable you the better to under¬ 
stand the foregoing remarks, and may bo 
helpful to other readers also. The winged or 
gnat-like insect makes its appearance early 
in April, and at once commences to deposit 
its eggs in the opening buds and flowers of 
the Pear. The eggs hatch out in due course, 
and the resulting larvse or maggots bore 
down to the core of the embryo fruits. Here 
they remain, and feed on the internal por¬ 
tion of the fruit until they become fully 
grown, which is generally about the second 
or third week in Juno, tho time varying 
according to the season. By the time the 
maggots are fully grown, they have so 
damaged the fruits that tho latter commence 
to drop from the tree in quantity ; but beforo 
this is allowed to occur, all such infested 
fruits should be picked off the trees and 
burnt forthwith. These infested fruits are 
plainly discernible, as all which contain 
maggots grow to an abnormal size, and as¬ 
sume a misshapen appearance, while out¬ 
wardly they often have a “pitted” appear¬ 
ance, and previous to dropping, portions of 
them become discoloured, eventually crack¬ 
ing, and allowing the larvae to escape. The 
larvae bury themselves in the soil beneath the 
trees to the depth of 1 inch to 2 inches, and 
in due course spin cocoons and become chry¬ 
salides, emerging as full-grown midges, 
ready to recommence the attack the follow¬ 
ing April. The best remedy is, as has al¬ 
ready been mentioned, hand-picking, and 
this, if carefully followed up, greatly lessens 
the possibility of future attacks. The next 
best remedy is to endeavour to deal with the 
chrysalides while they remain in the soil be¬ 
neath the trees. To this end, the soil, to a 
depth of 3 inches or 4 inches, should be fre¬ 
quently turned from July to the following 
March, and dusted with quicklime or dressed 
with kainit or muriate of potash or some¬ 
thing of an irritant or caustic nature, which 
will not damage the roots. You might also 
try the experiment of removing the soil to 
the depth of 4 inches under the tree, taking 
it away and burning it. Do this now, and 
before replacing the soil with fresh from 
another part of the garden, give the exposed 
surface a good dressing of quicklime or one of 
the two chemicals named. As the full-grown 
insects will not put in an appearance for a 
few weeks to come, you may by these means 
destroy a great number of them before they 
have the chance to do any damage, and then, 
if you are careful to pick off all deformed 
and discoloured fruits from the trees, also to 
gather up any which may drop to the ground, 
and -destroy them, you will reduce their 
numbers in time, and greatly enhance the 
prospect of securing a crop of fruit.] 









March 30, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

INDOOR PLANTS. 

PRIMULAS AT READING. 

The Chinese Primula has been for many 
years very popular as a winter-flowering 
greenhouse plant, and one has but to see the 
thousands of plants now in bloom in the 
London-rond nurseries of the Messrs. Button, 
of Reading, to realise that the old-time popu¬ 
larity is by no means on the wane. Judging 
from the improved varieties of the present 
day, at no time in its history has the Chinese 
Primula been held in greater esteem. This 
is obvious at Reading to-day, where an al¬ 
most endless array is to be seen in full beauty. 
Having referred to improvements generally, 
one has but to recall the Duchess strain or 
the Star (stellata) group of, say, five years 
ago. and note the great advance made in the 
short period mentioned. So recently as 


corative work, and whether employed for the 
table or conservatory decoration the plants 
will be found to be of the greatest value. The 
sprays of blossoms are also very useful for 
cutting. Some of the more pronounced of 
this type are White Queen, Ruby, Ruby 
Double, Mont Blanc, white, and Lord 
Roberts, glistening salmon-pink. These are 
but a few, and improvements are being added 
each year. Already the race contains repre¬ 
sentatives of the giant-flowered and Fern¬ 
leaved forms while retaining the true stellata 
characters. The first of these, with blossoms 
nearly, or quite, as large as in the fringed 
forms of P. sinensis, make a bold and telling 
set., and, from the decorative standpoint, are I 
of the highest importance. 

These Star Primulas will never supersede i 
the best known older types of the flower, and 
in passing to these the well-formed, often 
massive, blossoms of the “giant” strain de¬ 
serve notice. In almost every shade of colour 
—pink, salmon-pink, or terra-cotta, crimson, 


of which can hardly he realised when it con¬ 
cerns some thousands of plants. To prevent 
errors, every plant is labelled, and to prevent 
mixing of the strains, types, sections, or 
colours, the small camel-hair brushes em¬ 
ployed for pollination are all labelled and 
used for one variety only. Hence the re¬ 
markable trueness to colour which is quite a 
notable feature here. 

What strikes the visitor not a little when 
viewing the collection is the uniform size of 
the plants, and, in conjunction therewith, 
the proportion between leaf and flower-head 
—that is to say, while vigour and perfect 
health are seen on every hand, grossness is 
unknown. Doubtless, much of this is the 
direct outcome of an experience well-nigh 
unique, and the obvious desire that the 
highest state of excellence shall be attained. 
To this end the light, airy structures in whicli 
the plants are arranged on stages not far 
from the gloss, together with unremitting 
care and attention from seed-sowing to 



Chinese Primula Gin 


January, 1902, Primula The Duchess received ( 
the award of merit from the Royal Horticul- i 
Inral Society. The award in the case of a 
Primula was exceptional, but events have I 
justified the distinction, and to-day the | 
Ilucheas strain is among the inost beautiful 
in the Messrs. Sutton’s collection. One of 
the chief characteristics of this strain is the j 
tricolor flowers— i.e ., a ground border colour : 
of white, followed by a broad zone of rosy- I 
carmine, and a distinct and clear yellow eye. I 
It is this unique combination, coupled with 
flowers of the finest form and of large size, 
that has rendered this section one of the ' 
most popular, as it is, indeed, one of the most 
beautiful. The stellata group, when first j 
introduced, was not so well received as the 
above, yet, notwithstanding, the group is held , 
in high esteem by a very large number, and l 
the improvements noticeable at the present, 
time are calculated to greatly extend a well- j 
deserved popularity. Thp-tyeedom of flower¬ 
ing. the more or less £yraimd*l harbjtl ai>d 
taller flowering stems w AL nl nuy the y^-JeVies 
of this section of the highest value iCAJl de- 


Pink. From a photograph in Messrs. Sutton and Sons 


white, etc. these giants of the race are a 
very notable set. Blossoms of inches and 
2 jf inches diameter are abundant, and this 
upon plants of quite ordinary size. The 
trusses, too, of these giant forms are hand¬ 
some, and, standing clear of the well- 
balanced leafage, create a lasting impression. 
There are other kinds deserving of more than 
a passing word. Examples of these are found 
in Crimson King, Brilliant King, Pearl, an 
exquisite white flower, Brilliant Rose, etc. 
The Czar, with blossoms of deep violet-blue, 
is unique, and certainly a great advance upon 
any existing kind at present known. The 
brilliant colouring of the two first-named is 
seen to best advantage, we think, when the 
sunlight is upon the*plants, and, seen in the 
great masses as here grown and arranged, the 
effect is very telling. Altogether the stock of 
plants covers something like a quarter of an 
acre, and all the plants are grown for seed. 
To give the reader some idea of the infinite 
pains taken by the Messrs. Sutton, it may be 
stated that every flower on every plant is 
fertilised by hand, a business the magnitude 


' nursery at Heading. 


flowering, contribute each their quota to the 
display. E. H. Jenkins. 


Eulalia japonica variegata. — When 
grouping plants in the greenhouse or con¬ 
servatory, some light, graceful subjects nrc 
always appreciated, and few, if any, in this 
way aro more valuable than this pretty 
Japanese Grass. Grown in pots, it will 
reach a height of 3 feet to 5 feet, and the 
Leaves, which arch over in a very pleasing 
manner, are in colour rich green, freely 
striped with white. A form known sometimes 
as gracillima, and at others as univittata, has 
narrower leaves, with a whitish stripe down 
the centre, while zebrina, a coarser plant 
than either, is remarkable in the manner of 
its variegation. This has cream-coloured 
bands across the leaves, a style of variegation 
to be found in very fewljJlants. It is, how¬ 
ever,. less valuable from a decorative point, of 
view, than either of the other two. Where 
plants of any of these Eulalias are available, 
the present is a vtery go6d timeto increase 








GA EDEMA G ILL USTLi.LIED. 


M aucu 30, 1907 


03 


ilic stock, if required, as they may bo readily 
propagated by division, and if this is done in 
February or early in March, the plants have 
u good season’s growth before them. They 
grow well in a mixture of loam, leaf-mould, 
iiud sand. After being divided, the plants, 
if possible, should be kept a little closer than 
before till the roots are again active. The 
Eulalias are quite hardy, but this does not 
detract from their value for indoor decora¬ 
tion. Botanists tell us that these plants be¬ 
long to the genus Miscanthus, but the name 
of Eulalia is too firmly fixed to be quickly 
eliminated.—X. 


FORCED SHRUBS IN THE GREEN 
HOUSE AT KEW. 

A visit to the greenhouse at Kew in the 
middle *of March serves to show the great 
value.of some of our hardy shrubs for bloom¬ 
ing at that season. Of course, they have all 
been forced, a method of treatment to which, 
if carefully carried out, nearly all our out¬ 
door early-flowering shrubs are amenable. 
Spine a prunifolia flore-pleno, in the shape 
of a large-sized bush, is very noticeable, the 
little pure white rosette-like blossoms stand¬ 
ing out clearly against the dark-coloured 
bark of the stems. The fragile-looking 
Spiraea Thunbergi, with tiny white flowers, is 
another very amenable to forcing, while it is 
also remarkable as one of the parents 
of the hybrid Spiraea arguta, one of 
the very best early-flowering Spiraeas for the 
open ground or for flowering under glass. 
Of the double-flowered Cherries especial men¬ 
tion must be made of the Japanese Prunus 
pseudo-Ccrasus J. IT. Veitch, remarkable not 
only for the large size of its blossoms, borne 
on comparatively small plants, but also for 
their pleasing shade of pink. Much paler 
under glass than in the open ground is Pyrus 
Mains Schiedeckeri, but even in this way it 
is very pretty, being absolutely laden with 
bloom. Double-flowered Peaches, too, arc 
very showy. The rich golden-coloured blos¬ 
soms of the common double-flowered form of 
Kerria japonica stamp it as an extremely 
desirable subject for forcing, yet how seldom 
do we‘see it treated in this way! Azalea 
mollis in its different forms is, of course, well 
represented, while the lilac-blush flowers of 
Rhododendron praecox afford a pleasing 
variety. Of double-flowered Lilacs, now so 
numerous, there is nothing to surpass the ab¬ 
solutely pure white Mine. Lenioine, while of 
Magnolias it is questionable which is the 
more beautiful, the large, richly-coloured 
flowers of M. Lenne, or the comparatively 
small white ones of M. stellala. Wistaria 
sinensis has of late years become very popu¬ 
lar for forcing, and, grown as a standard, it 
is extremely striking when effectively 
grouped. The hybrid Erica Veitchi, a cross 
between E. arborea and E. lusitaniea (codo- 
nodes), readily lends itself to this mode of 
treatment. ' X. 


NOTES AND 11EPL1ES. 

riowering plants for October —Having to get 
together a lot of plants to flower for the end of 
October. I would be glad to know if the Guernsey or 
Belladonna Lilies could be retarded for that date, 
and, if so, what would be the proper time to pot 
them up? If you could give me the names of any 
other Amaryllids or Gladioli, which, for cut flowers, 
would be of use for the above-mentioned time 1 
would be much obliged? Would .Gladiolus psittaci- 
nus be useful?—D. M. 

[We are rather afraid that the Belladonna 
Lilies would be over by the time named by 
you, even if you lifted them just as the spikes 
appeared, and after potting kept them as cool 
as possible. There are, however, many 
forms of Nerine in addition to the Guernsey 
Lily (Nerine sarniensis), whose flowering 
period is just about the time specified. An 
Amaryllid that you may find useful is 
Amaryllis aulica, with bright red flowers 
borne on a scape 18 inches to 2 feet high. 
Another is Callipsycho aurnntiaca, whose 
flower-scape readies a height of a couple of 
feet, and is terminated by an umbel of bright 
golden-yellow blossoms. Individually they 
hear some resemblance to a small Day Lily, 
but the sf aniens protrude 3 inches or so from 
the pci i.mtli and iwvpart a peculiar brush- 
lik*> iii rungement to a head of The 

Lily S- i.iz Wt vi iV_Jucc.rmc)lAiglit suit 


your purpose, as it blooms at about the 
stipulated time, and its spikes of red flowers 
are very showy. The various socotrana 
hybrids of Begonia are also valuable autumn¬ 
flowering plants, although they do not belong 
to Amaryllids or allied genera, to which your 
question seems to be limited. Gladiolus 
psittacinus is not likely to prove of any help 
to you ; indeed, we do not know any member 
of that genus which we can recommend.] 

Lilium auratum in pots.-Kindly tell me:—(1) 
Ilow to treat the bulbs of this after flowering? (ii) 
Can tlicw or can they not bv so treated as to bloom 
year alter year, increasing their flower-spikes annu¬ 
ally? Many years ago I grew L. auratum, attending 
to them myself. 1 potted the bulbs and bloomed 
them in suitable soil. After blooming I put them 
under the stage in the conservatory, never allowing 
them to get dust-dry. Next spring I shifted to 
larger pots, disturbing the roots as little as possible, 
lu a few years i had six or eight spikes per pot, all 
blooming. At last, during a period of long and con¬ 
tinued hard frost, by some carelessness, the bulbs 
got frozen and killed. To-day I find that within 
.‘100 yards of my house, in a warm, sheltered spot in a 
neighbour’s garden outside, is a dump of L. auratum 
that increases and blooms year by year.—G reeniieys, 
Ross. 

[When Lilium auratum lias finished bloom¬ 
ing, the plants should be watered as before till 
the leaves turn yellow and drop, and the 
stem dies down. Then the best place for 
them is a cold frame, just protected from 
frost and no more, as, if kept when dormant 
in a warm place, they start into growth so 
quickly that the constitution of the plant is 
thereby greatly weakened. When the stems 
die down, enough water should be given to 
keep the soil slightly moist, hut no more, as 
this will suffice to keep the bulbs fresh and 
the roots in good condition. Then, in the 
latter half of October, or in November, is a 
favourable time to repot, using pots from 
I inch to 2 inches wider than before. When 
the plant is turned out of its pot, the roots 
at the base of the ball of earth must be care¬ 
fully disentangled and the broken crocks 
taken away, removing at the same time as 
much of the exhausted top soil as you can 
without disturbing the bulb too much. Then 
return to the frame, water sparingly during 
the winter, and in spring the new shoot or 
shoots will push up, and, when too tall for 
the frame, the plants may be removed to the 
greenhouse. In this way many of them may 
be flowered year after year, in somo cases 
increasing their flower spikes annually. This, 
however, cannot be depended upon, for 
Lilium auratum is most erratic in its be¬ 
haviour, and the bulbs arc often infected by 
a fungoid disease which renders their culture 
a matter of considerable difficulty. This 
trouble seems to be greatly on the increase, as 
some cultivators who used to he very success¬ 
ful in keeping L. auratum from year to year 
now experience considerable difficulty in 
doing so. At the same time, it has been 
done for years, and in many instances still 
is. The fact of Lilium auratum thriving in 
your immediate neighbourhood would seem to 
indicate that the conditions are favourable 
to its w'cll-doing, and there is no apparent 
reason why yours under pot culture should 
not be equally successful.] 

Thunbergia (Hexacentris) mysorensis. 

The perusal of the note on this now little- 
known free-flowering stove climber (page 620, 
Gardening, January 5th, 1907) carries me 
back to the time when, soon after I com¬ 
menced my gardening career. I was living 
where a remarkably fine example of the Hexa- 
eentris, as it was then called, existed. I 
have always retained a lively recollection of 
the profuse maimer in which this plant 
flowered, and I have never met with ite equal 
anywhere since. The growths of the plant in 
question were trained under the roof on a 
trellis which overhung the pathway of the 
stove; consequently, the flowers were seen to 
the greatest advantage, and at that time they 
excited great interest, and were much ad¬ 
mired. As the note alluded to above cor¬ 
rectly mentions, the flowers are produced on 
long, pendulous racemes, and the stalks are 
so slender that each raceme appears ns if 
attached to the growths by a piece of fine 
green thread. It is a fine subject for warm 
stove ornamentation, but. I suppose, is not 
looked ou with much favour now, as the 
flowers are useless for cutting. All the same, 
I am glad to see that it has again been 
brought forward, though the granting of an 


award of merit, after so many, years have 
elapsed since its introduction, is but a tardy 
recognition of its merits. The example 
quoted was planted in a brick-built receptacle 
about 2 feet square, and the same in depth, 
beneath the stage, and the growths had to be 
trained up an iron pillar before they reached 
the trellis. 1 The compost consisted of two- 
thirds peat, one-third loam, with a very 
liberal quantity of Rcigate sand added, and 
in this the plant grew with great freedom. 
At that time much more attention was given 
to the cultivation of flowering stove climbing 
plants, as in the same house a considerable 
amount of trellising was given up to the 
beautiful Clerodendron Balfourianuin, with 
its clusters or panicles of flowers, each one 
having a white calyx and crimson corolla ; 
Bougainvillea lateritine, Allamaudas in 
variety, the old liondeletia speciosa major, 
Stigmaphyllum ciliatum, with its pretty 
Oncidium-like flowers. Stephanotis flori- 
bunda, Passiflora princeps, and, subse¬ 
quently, Schubertia grandiflora was added. 
Euphorbia jacquinkeflora was used to clothe a 
dividing wall, with the plants being set out in 
a narrow border, and, with one exception, I 
have never seen this plant grow more vigor¬ 
ously and produce finer and longer bracts.— 
A. W. 

Standard Fuchsias. Time was when gar¬ 
deners took a special pride in growing stan¬ 
dard Fuchsias, hut whether from a lack of ap¬ 
preciation, or the period it takes to produce 
a really fine plant, they seem to have gone 
out of date somewhat. Whatever the cause 
of their unpopularity in some quarters, one 
cannot but admit that a well grown specimen 
carrying a number of blossoms is an object of 
beauty. Are standard Fuchsias a deal of 
trouble to produce? I submit not. If one is 
prepared to sacrifice flowers for a couple of 
seasons, it is possible to have a most attrac¬ 
tive specimen ; indeed, after the first season, 
when the plant has assumed the desired 
shape, one may, if so desired, have standard 
Fuchsias carrying a fair amount of blossoms, 
but to have a plant, say a couple of feet high 
before a break, it is needful to wait a couple 
of seasons. It is, of course, necessary to com¬ 
mence with a rooted cutting, rubbing out all 
side shoots until the desired height has been 
reached, when it should be stopped, and the 
side shoots subsequently formed above, 
trained out over a wire trellis, which must be 
supported for a time at least by several stakes. 
Great care is necessary in the tying of tho 
shoots not to bend them too early, otherwise 
they soon break ofl. Buds which will appear 
must be rubbed off, and the energies of tho 
plant directed to the building up of a nicely 
shaped specimen.— Woodbastwick. 

Helxine Soleiroli In pots for furnishing.— 

As a little creeping plant for the rock garden 
this Helxine has to a very limited extent been 
known for some years, but last summer at one 
of the meetings of the Royal Horticultural 
Society it was shown under different condi¬ 
tions, and not only attracted a good deal of 
attention but also proved a puzzle to many of 
the visitors. The specimens referred to were 
grown in 4-inch pots, and employed for the 
edging of a group, for which purpose they 
afforded a pleasing variety to the Selaginella, 
Isolepis gracilis, or variegated Panicum, so 
ofteu used iu this way. The procumbent 
stems clothed with their roundish leaves, grow 
freely under pot culture, so that the shoots 
hang down sufficiently to entirely hide the pot. 
An experiment made w j ith a few for furnishing 
revealed the fact that they stand the knocking 
about incidental to this work better than the 
Selaginella. and I hear that some of our large 
florists contemplate giving it a trial for this 
purpose. For greenhouse decoration it is of 
the easiest possible culture, needing only to 
bo divided up and potted into ordinary pot¬ 
ting compost. A well-furnished pot forms a 
very pleasing feature in the sitting-room. As 
a rockwork plant it is seen at its beet when 
rambling over a stone, after the manner of 
Arenaria balearica, for growing in soil ou the 
moister parts it is apt to damp during the 
winter. This Helxine is a native of Corsica 
and Sardinia, and although not in the least 
suggested hy its appearance, it is a member 
of the Nettle family.—X- 


March 30, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


59 


OUTDOOR PLANT8* 

SINGLE PEONIES. 

The single Pueoniee have but little in com¬ 
mon with the larger double kinds, but for 
beauty they hold their own. Too transient 
the flowers may be, even more so than those 
of the double kinds in this respect, but this 
we find in more than one instance among our 
flowers of the garden. While all this deli¬ 
cate beauty of petal is found in these 
Pieonies, there is also added to them a crown 
of gold that inspires admiration. In no other 
flower do we find this abundant tuft of golden 
nniker.s so fully developed as in the single 
1‘a.Mjm. Without this crowning feature 
these Pieonies would present but little better 


clayey loam seems to suit these plants bet¬ 
ter than either a heavy clay or a soil that is 
particularly light and sandy. Indeed, in the 
latter case, unless the soil was particularly 
deep, a liberal addition of moderately stiff 
clay would prove of almost the same value as 
manure, while the two combined would make 
a rooting medium in which the plants would 
do well for years. Deep digging, firm plant¬ 
ing, and liberal mulching with manure, are 
items that receive due attention from many 
gardeners. What is of equal importance— 
more especially in a very dry season—is keep¬ 
ing the plants sufficiently moist at the root 
in summer. It is a good plan where a single 
bed or two is grown to keep the surface of 
the soil low, when flooding with water or 
liquid-manure is more readily accomplished. 


pieces of limestone mixedwith it. I have it 
planted about 3 inches deep, and it receives 
no protection whatever.—S. A., Dumfries. 


THE IVY-LEAVED ROCKFOIL (SAXI- 
FKAGA CYMBALARIA). 

On account of its purely surface-rooting, and 
its fresh green leaves and yellow flowers, the 
■ pretty little Saxifraga Cymbalaria appears to 
be deserving of more notice than it has re- 
I ceivcd as a carpeting plant for early-flowering 
i bulbs, such as the Scillas and Chionodoxas, 
whose blue flowers look very beautiful against, 
the light-shining green of the Rockfoil. ft 
has one fault, and that is that it is only a 
biennial or an annual. One can hardly tell 
I with which to class it, as self-sown seedlings 



A single IVuony. From a photograph in Messrs. Kehvay and Son’s nursery at Lang]*ort. 


results than so many Poppies. From the 
doubles, and, indeed, the semi-double kinds, 
this conspicuous feature is absent. We see 
it again, however, in some of the species— 
indeed, in greater or Jess degree in them all, 
whether the flower is white or crimson. It is 
a conspicuous feature in the lovely Pieonia 
albiflora, and equally pronounced in many of 
the handsomest forms of the Tree-Pteonv. 
Perhaps the chief drawback to the single 
Pttony is a certain thinness of petal, a failing 
more or less marked in many of the older 
forms. This shortcoming only served to keep 
them in the background for a time, but a 
great improvement, both in the substance and 
the durability of the flower, is apparent in 
the newer varieties. 

Pieonies delight in U^decpest andjricliest 
of soils, and. in fact/in their leanpltpit is 
scarcely L possible to\r3v ft oeVc,! Wandy, 


Even in ordinary seasons such attention al 
flowering time and for a few weeks after is 
never lost on the plants. On the contrary, it 
infuses greater vigour into the plants, and 
supplies nutriment and moisture at a time 
when the strain is the greatest. T. 


Amaryllis Fischeriana.— The plant W. M. 
Crowfoot inquires about in Gardening, of 
March 16th, is probably Sternbergia Fis- 
clieriana, one of the Amaryllidaese, as there 
is no true Amaryllis of that name to be found 
in the “Index Kewensis” or in Mr. J. G. 
Baker’s ‘‘Handbook” of the genus. Stern¬ 
bergia Fischeriana, which has yellow flowers, 
and is in bloom in the open here at present, is 
quite hardy, and is best planted in a sunny 
place in a soil composed of loam, leaf-soil, 
or peat, with some old mortar rubbish or 


I from early-blooming plants will flower the 
same autumn, so that for ull practical pur¬ 
poses it may be considered an annual. It 
sows itself so freely, especially in a light and 
somewhat dry soil, that one soon has plenty 
of it, and although some plants may appear 
where they are not wanted, they can be 
readily transplanted, and that without injury 
to anything near them. When this Ivy-leaved 
! Rockfoil begins to bloom it. is only about half 
| an inch high, but the stems gradually extend 
as the flowers open and its full height is 
about 4 inches. Unlike some carpeting 
1 plants, however, it is of such a character that 
it will hardly injure even the shallowest- 
| planted bulb. The leaves of the Ivy-leaved 
Rockfoil are of much tl)e same form as those 
' of the common Ivy (Hedera Helix), but more 
. rounded in the lobes, and they are of a light 
I green, shining as if polished. The flowers are 








60 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


March 30,- 1007 


tiny, blit bright and effective, particularly in 
shade, which the plant seems to like, with the 
coolness which prevails away from the sun, 
although it will also grow in full sun. I 
have hail it in my gardens for more than 
twenty years, and in my present one it is 
thriving splendidly. Its drawback (and al¬ 
most every plant has one or more failings) is 
that it grows a little shabby in late summer, 
and may then be cleared away. Where it is 
happy it will never require resowing, as a 
multitude of plants springs pp around and 
underneath where the old ones were. 

The bright golden stars of this little Rock- 
foil on its polished leaves are lovely in a 
shady corner of the garden, and growing 
about a hedge root or under trees this Rock- 
foil is certain to give much pleasure to those 
who see it. Another use to which this Saxi- 
fraga may be put is to employ it in the con¬ 
servatory or greenhouse in small pots. An 
able cultivator of pot plants found it very 
useful for decoration in winter. His practice 
was to sow it in pans in autumn, and to prick 
out the plants into 3-inch pots. The plants 
grow taller under glass than in the open, and 
reach from 6 inches to 8 inches high. Those 
who have young plants outdoors need not sow' 
seeds, but may pot up plants from self-sown 
seedlings. S. A. 


PLANTING CHRISTMAS ROSES. 
Kindly tell me in your valuable paper what to do to 
my Christmas Rose plants? Each year they send up 
good fresh leaves, hut invariably every autumn the 
leaves die oil in the way of the specimens I enclose. 

1 water the plants in summer, and have put rubble 
under them for drainage, also I have given weak 
liquid-manure to them from time to time without 
wetting the leaves, and yet nothing is left hut buds 
and flowers.-S tourbridge. 

-Will you please tell me when I should plant 

Christmas Roses, and which are the best kinds to 
grow under a north-west wall?—K. I’. E. 

[There is no season in the whole year so 
well suited to the planting or transplanting 
of Christmas Roses as the month of Septem¬ 
ber. Indeed, it is nob only the best time for 
dealing with the plants, but it is also the 
most rational. We quite know such a state¬ 
ment to be contrary to much that is pub¬ 
lished concerning these plants, which, in the 
main, are recommended to be planted or 
transplanted when the new leaves arc pushing 
through the soil. For a large uumber of 
perennials, the somewhat hackneyed advice 
of planting “as soon as flowering is com¬ 
pleted” suits very well, but there are other 
instances where the same advice would be 
entirely wrong, and attended with the worst 
possible results. A case in point is the entire 
family of Christmas Roses (Helleborus niger). 
The reason why these plants will not submit 
to the methods of planting adopted for so 
many other plants with good results centres 
itself wholly around the root production of 
the plants. There are but two sets of root- 
fibres produced in these plants each year 
when in health and vigour, the principal set 
being the basal roots, which issue from the 
under side of the rhizome or root stock about 
August and September, and upon the retain¬ 
ing of these roots depends the immediate suc¬ 
cess of the plants. It is not only important 
that the roots should he retained; it is 
equally important that they should not lie 
broken, and if this hapjiens while the roots 
are in the young state, it is often the case that 
the broken or injured roots die right back to 
the rhizome. 1 have frequently examined 
clumps of these Christmas Roses where all 
the old roots were black and lifeless; and 
where this is seen the plant lias, of necessity, 
to exist upon its own resources for weeks, or 
it may be months. It is this hurling it into a 
state of debility, from which it is always too 
slow to recover, that has given rise to the 
common phrase “ that Christmas Roses are im¬ 
patient of removal.” These plants are certainly 
“impatient of removal”—at a wrong season 
—and the hardy plantsman who knows his 
subject would no more think of planting or 
transplanting liis Christmas Roses when in 
leaf growth than he would dream of trans¬ 
planting his choicest Daffodils at the same 
time. The primary object of September 
planting is, therefore, intended to preserve 
tlip new main roots, ami* where the jplanting 
h donp in the first half oFfV n iiThned, 
the new roots will hwdlf mfre emlrgen-from 


the root-stock. Where this is the case, so 
much the better; indeed, it is as important 
that the planting bo done so as to be in ad¬ 
vance of root production, just as one would 
pot or plant Hyacinths, Daffodils, etc., prior 
to the issue of the root-fibres in these plants. 
In early September the plants may be pulled 
to pieces quite freely and planted in deeply- 
worked and rich soils. 

The Christmas Rose will send its main 
roots down to 3 feet deep, lienee the soil 
must be well prepared for the plants. The 
best position is a partly shaded one, and a 
continuously cold, sunless spot is not an 
ideal one for theso plants. The shade of a 
wall or a building too frequently renders the 
position unsuitable, and, generally speaking, 
the thin shade of distant trees or such things 
as Nut bushes is the most agreeable. Where 
the shade is that of a brick wall, the uncon¬ 
genial conditions often give rise to a fungoid 
disease, which in some instances not only 
blackens and disfigures the leafage, but is 
responsible for its early decay. The shelter 
of a low' terrace wall, or that of a low' Holly 
hedge may be good, while that of a high wall, 
shutting out all light and air, is generally 
bad. Better than this is a quite open posi¬ 
tion, where the plants may receive temporary 
shade by means of boughs, etc. 

If the plants are predisposed to the attacks 
of fungus, the better plan will be to change 
the position in September, first removing all 
diseased leaves. In the new position, when 
the growth has been made in spring, spraying 
the leaves with block sulphur in soft-soap 
solution will assist to keep it in check. The 
spray should reach the under and upper sur¬ 
faces of the leaves, and the work is best done 
ill the evening. Christmas Roses should 
never be planted intact in very large clumps; 
it is fatal to their growth, and the plants 
rarely recover therefrom. The best forms of 
the Christmas Rose are those known as the 
“Bath” variety, Mme. Fourcade, angusti- 
folius, and maxiinus, the last flowering in Oc¬ 
tober, November, and later. 

The above remarks apply more directly to 
the section indicated, which must not be con¬ 
founded with the Lenten Roses, of w’hieh 
H. orientals is a type. Theso latter, by 
reason of their perpetual-rooting characteris¬ 
tics, are much more amenable to ordinary 
methods of culture, and transplanting may he 
done in their case in autumn or in spring.] 


NOTES AND HE PLIES. 

Cutting down old Ziavender plants — I have 
a good number of old Lavender plants in my garden, 
which 1 notice do not flower nearly so well as the 
young plants. 1 have been told if I cut them right 
down they will bloom more profusely, as the flowers 
only come on the young wood. I shall be much obliged 
if you will tell me if this is the case, and at what t ime 
in the year I ought to do it? And also if any other 
treatment would he advisable?—B ramble. 

[Cut down the plants at once, and put a 
layer of manure over the roots, keeping them 
w'cll watered if the weather is at all dry. If 
carefully attended to in this way the old 
plants will break from the bottom and lie- 
come thick and strong.] 

Basic slag and nitrate of soda I would be 
obliged - if you would kindly answer the following 
questions re treatment of Grass: — (I) Wluib is the 
chemical composition of basic slag? (2) When basic 
slag is put down in the winter and nitrate of soda in 
the spring, what, chemical substance is produced by 
their inter-action? (3J How should nitrate of soda 
be applied to the Grass? If it, should be applied in 
solution, what strength should be used?—T urfite. 

[(1) Basic slag, like all other artificial 
manure's, varies considerably in quality. The 
following, however, is an analysis of what may 
he considered a representative specimen : 
Lime, 45.04 per cent.; magnesia, 6.42; 
alumina, 1.50; ferrous oxide, 2.10; ferric 
oxide, 15.42; manganous oxide, 3.50; 
vanadious oxide, 1.35; silica, 5.80; sulphur, 
0.32; calcium, 0.40; phosphorus pentoxidc, 
18.10. The phosphoric acid varies consider¬ 
ably from 10 to 20 per cent. - that is. from 
22 to 44 per cent, tricalcic phosphate. (2) We 
cannot deal with chemical questions of this 
character. (3) Nitrate of soda should lie 
scattered over the Grass and allowed to dis¬ 
solve. It is very soluble, and should always 
lye applied during the growing season, other¬ 
wise the benefit of the application will be lost. 
It would be laborious to apply the nitrate in 
the form oF a solution to large areas ; but if 


you are dealing with a small lawu there is 
no reason why you should not adopt the 
method, if you prefer it. The dressing 
usually varies from 1 to 3 cwt. per acre, the 
latter being a very heavy dressing for Grass ; 
1 cwt. per acre may be roughly calculated as 
5 lb. to the square rod.] 

Primroses. I have never realised ho fully 
as I have done this year what a deal of 
vitality there is in a Primrose. During 
January and the later part of February, when 
frost held sway, one would scarcely have 
thought that the roots would survive, much 
less “broaden into beauty in the spring,” hut 
towards the end of March blooms are show¬ 
ing and a few genial showers will reveal many 
of the pale yellow blossoms. Wherever room 
can be found for these very charming spring 
flovvers in a garden they should he grown ; a 
small packet of seed sown in April will pro¬ 
duce a number of plants which, if trans¬ 
planted into good soil to which a little 
manure has been added, will bloom freely in 
the following spring. This should not, how¬ 
ever, prevent the old plants being divided 
occasionally. Primroses are flowers of Hie 
meadow and the woodland, hut are quite at 
home in a garden under a hedgerow, and 
many a garden where there are hedges for 
boundaries might, with advantage have a num¬ 
ber planted at the foot. The Bunch Prim¬ 
roses, too, are very beautiful, and seed may 
be sown now for blooming another year. They 
are useful for window-boxes and for pots. 
They will grow' in soil sometimes described 
as “ordinary garden soil,” but they certainly 
pay for more liberal treatment, and anyone 
giving them a somewhat richer compost will 
not be disappointed in the result.—L ea 
hurst. 

Hardy plants for a town garden.— 1 think 

that one reason why hardy plants are becom¬ 
ing more popular with the town dweller is 
owing to the fact that most of them provide 
many beautiful flowers for cutting, and, what 
is equally important, unlike beading plants, 
there is not the yearly expense attending 
them. One may soon spend a matter of ten 
shillings for a summer show of flowers, ami 
in November have nothing to look at, but 
the same amount spent on hardy flowering 
plants gives a much better return. In re¬ 
commending hardy plants for a town garden, 
one is conscious that for the first season they 
may not be so satisfactory os plants grown in 
more open neighbourhoods, but I submit that 
the following season, given proper soil and 
attention, there is more pleasure to he got 
out of them than from an equal number of 
bedding plants. Doronicums begin to bloom 
quite early in spring ; PmonieB give a bold 
dash of colour to the garden in May and 
June; Lupins, Canterbury Bells, Flag 
Irises, Campanulas, Pyrctlirums, Oriental 
Poppies, and Phloxes all contribute to a gay 
display, and all are comparatively easy to 
grow. People talk of scarlet, Pelargoniums 
as if they alone* were capable of creating 
beauty in a garden. What of the Del¬ 
phiniums. Hollyhocks, Monthretias, Lathy- 
ruses, and Snapdragons? all of which may be 
grown even in a garden where bricks and 
mortar and fences are in evidence ; ami then 
in the autumn the richly-coloured Gladioli, 
Harpaliums, and Chrysanthemums produce 
many blossoms, followed hv the more sombre- 
coloured flowers of Michaelmas Daisies, that 
bloom until the frosts are with us. Wood- 
BASTWICK. 

“ Jack-in-the-Creen ” Wood Anemone. - 

There is n delightfully quuint-looking little 
Wood Anemone, known botanic-ally as 
Anemone nemorosa brarteata, hut which has 
become known under the name which ap¬ 
pears as the title of this short note. It, has 
flovvers like those of the common single Wood 
Anemone, but they are surrounded by a ruff 
of green, almost like that, of the Winter 
Aconite, but generally coloured partly with 
white. It is much after the style, so far as 
the bracts round the flowers are concerned, 
of the Jack-in-the-Green Primroses'••'and 
Polyanthuses, and pleases everyone who 
knows the plant well, or whose attention is 
directed to this pretitlyl (feature of the flower. 
It is,as hardy as the-common ,\yootl Anemone, 
anu will thrive! best in a_fre>e soil. -Division 
is the mode_ofi increase. A. 



March 30, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Gl 


SUMMER FLOWERING PLANTS ON 
THE GRASS. 

One of the many changes that have taken 
place in the employment of tender plants for 
the embellishment of the garden during the 
summer months is the practice of plunging 
large-flowering specimens on the turf, to¬ 
wards the edges of lawns, and in similar 



fuchsia Mrs. Kutldle in Peckham Rye Park in 
the summer ot 1906. From a photograph 
bv Mr. T. MiHin. 


spots. This is particularly noticeable in the 
manv public parks and gardens; indeed, the 
larg-> plants so treated in the strip of turf 
parallel with Park-lane form one of the most 
attractive features in Hyde Park. In Peek- 
ham Rve Park, too, where the accompanying 
photograph of Fuchsia Mrs. Rundle was 
taken, tins, as well as the other various styles, 
is well done. 

Numerous plants are available for this 
mode of treatment, particularly Fuchsias of 
such bold-growing varieties as Mrs. Rundle, 
Searcitv, Lord Bvron, Mrs. Marshall, Mar- 
inka. Rose of Castile, Ballet Girl, Pheno¬ 
menal. etc. Heliotrope President Garfield, 
dark ;'and White Lady, light. Pelargoniums 
of the Zonal section, both single and double, 
and the more vigorous of the double-flowered 
Ivy-leaved kinds are also useful. Of these 
one of the oldest and, perhaps, the best of 
all. is Souvenir de Charles Turner, which, 
for all purposes, is grown more than any other 
variety. Its bold growth and equally bold 
clusters of flowers stamp it as an ideal plant 
for growing into large specimens. Other sub¬ 
jects much in demand for the same purposo 
are Plumbago eapensis, whose porcelain blue 
flowers are admired by everyone ; Plumbago 
eapensis alba, the flowers of which are white, 
and rather smaller than in the type ; Calceo¬ 
laria Bttrbidgei ; Cassia corymbosa, whose 
rich golden-yellow flowers are borne through¬ 
out the summer ; Solanum jssminoides, a de¬ 
lightful member of the Potato family, whose 
charming white flowers continue till frosts set 
in; Erythrina crista-galli, a quaint subject 
in every way, with large scarlet flowers; 
Agapanthus umbellatus, blue; Agapantbus 
umbellatus albus white; Hydrangeas; Strep 
tosolen Jamesoni, whose reddish-orange 
coloured flowers are of a distinct hue from 
those of any of their associates; and Eatura 
(Bruomansia) arborea, the long white trum¬ 
pet sEaped blossomB of which are always 

much admired. _ , . , 

The display at Peckham Rye Park is by no 
limited to these isolated specimens, as 
the formal bedding that always has its ad- 
mirers is particular^ ^U done, ^remark 
that applie* wlth *3, 


. AJ util uuuti) a 

to^^^ixed 


beds of flowering subjects now so popular. I 
was particularly struck during the last sum¬ 
mer with a large bed whose occupants con¬ 
sisted of half-standard Acer Negundo, alter¬ 
nated with flowering examples of Plumbago 
eapensis, and a little in advance Lantana 
delicatissima (Lantana salvirefolia of Kew), 
the whole of the groundwork being Verbena 
venosa. That beautiful variety ©f Verbena, 
known as Miss Willmott, also did particularly 
well as a carpeting to large standard Fuchsias. 
In the extensive and appropriate use of the 
better class of herbaceous plants, Peckham 
Rye Park stands in the foremost rank, as the 
wide, more or less undulating, borders admit 
of the different subjects being treated in a 
bold and distinctive manner. The selection, 
too, is so well carried out that its attractive¬ 
ness extends from spring to autumn, a grand 
late October display being furnished by the 
border Chrysanthemums, some of the best 
being Alexandre Dufour, Horace Martin, 
Ralph Curtis, Albert Charron, and Coral 
Queen. 

Little wonder, then, that this park is looked 
upon by many as one of the most beautiful 
spots in south-east London, for in addition 
to the above, it is, in parts, particularly well 
wooded. It was first opened fco the public in 
1892 as a third-class park, and ten years later 
was advanced to second-class. X. 


THE PRICKLY POPPY (ARGEMONE 
IIISPIDA). 

Tills is a curious, as well as a beautiful, 
plaut—curious in the glaucou6, prickly 
Thistle-like foliage, and beautiful in the hand¬ 
some pure white flowers, each nearly 4 inches 
across. The name Prickly Poppy conveys a 
capital idea of the plant. It is a fine plant 
for the summer garden, giving it always the 
warmest position and a good deep soil. The 
plant i6 said to be perennial in its Californian 
home, but this is not so in British gardens, 
where it is best treated as an annual to be 
raised early each year from seed. T. 


Anemones.— It is always a pleasure to see 
the Anemones, and although for the most 
part the flowers that reach our markets in 
March come to us from warmer climes, they, 
nevertheless, indicate that winter is surely 
passing, and spring is nigh at hand. But is 
the Anemone, as a spring and early summer 
flower, grown as much as it deserves to be? 
I think not. Many whom I know who culti¬ 
vate the old autumnal-blooming sorts like 


soms they produce in April and May; and 
A. fulgens is one of the most attractive of 
spring-flowering plants.—F. W. D. 


CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

EARLY-FLOWERING CHRYSANTHE¬ 
MUMS. 

Treatment of Younci Plants. 

The earliest batch of plants is already mak¬ 
ing considerable progress, and means must 
be taken to give them less warm conditions. 
The first batch of cuttings was rooted in a 
bed made up on the greenhouse bench, and in 
this way I annually raise many hundreds of 
plants. This batch of cuttings has made nice 
plants within the past fortnight, and I have 
now decided to follow' the method adopted in 
more recent years and plant them out in cold- 
frames arranged in the warmer quarter of the 
garden. There is no better way of dealing 
with such plants than planting them out in 
good soil in cold-frames. Short-jointed, 
stocky growth should characterise all plants 
treated in this fashion. The cold-frame 
should, if deep, be filled with soil, so as to 
bring the plants up as near to the glass as 
possible. In this way the young plants will 
not get drawn and weakly. The soil in the 
frames should bo well broken up, and rotten 
horse-manure may be added ^fith advantage, 
with, on the surface, a few inches of soil 
passed through a sieve with a coarse mesh. 
Lift the young plants from the cutting-bed 
(or boxes), and avoid damaging the roots, as 
far as possible. Take in hand one variety at 
a time, and after inserting a label at the ieft- 
hand corner of the frame, follow on with 
plants of the variety named on the label. 
About 4 inches apart is a good distance to 
allow between the plants in most instances, 
although in the case of some of the more ro¬ 
bust sorts rather more space may be allowed 
with advantage. Give 6 inches between the 
rows, and plant firmly. 

The old method of potting up plants after 
they were rooted in boxes or in cutting- 
beds entails a great amount of trouble and 
hard work. The constitution of Chrysanthe¬ 
mums treated in the newer and more rational 
method of planting out in frames in their 
early life is well maintained at its best, and 
strong plants can be placed in their per¬ 
manent quarters in late April or May. When 
the frame is full the plants should be watered 
in, using n can with a fine rose. Avoid 



The Prickly Poppy (Argemone hispida). 


japonica and japonica alba, and would not be 
without them, somehow do not take into ; 
account the earlv sorts that give us a feast 
of beauty months before. The Apennino ! 
Windflower, one of the earliest to bloom, is 
one of the easiest to grow, and gives us of its 
blue blossoms in “Daffodil time.” Fesv, in¬ 
deed, recognise bow easily grown are the 
Crown Anemones, and what brilliant bios- 


coddling. As the weather becomes more 
genial, abundance of air may be admitted to 
the frame, and on bright days, when cold 
winds do not prevail, tne frame lights may 
be removed entirely. Ultimately—say, for a 
week or two before planting outdoors—the 
plants may have the frame-lights taken off, 
in this way hardening them off in a way that 
tlipy will not suffer when they are planted in 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




62 


G. 1 HI) EXT A Tr ILL UST HATED. 


MAlien 30, 1907 




their flowering quartern. I would rather treat 
the plants in this way than place them in the 
beds and borders outdoors at the early date 
recommended by some writers. The cold and 
trying winds of our English climate in late 
April and early May often do much harm to 
the plants when first put out, and for this 
reason I would rather give the plants pro¬ 
tection in the frames, and plant in the flower¬ 
ing quarters about the third week in May. 

E. U. 


NOTES AND IfEPLIES. 

Chrysanthemums-stopping and timing 

(II. B.). —For southern growers, in which category you 
may be placed, plants for exhibition should be treated as 
follows Which bud 

Name. When to atop. to retain. 

Mrs. C. Beckett .. .. Late March ..2nd crown 

“Honble. Mrs. A. Acland .. Natural break .. 1st crown 

*George Penford .. .. Natural break .. 1st crown 

Miss Mildred Ware .. .. Late March .. 2nd crown 

* Where the natural break fails to develop by the third 
week in May, the plants should he stopped and first crown- 
buds retained.—E. G. 

Dividing early-flowering Chrysanthemums 

— I have just removed into a house, and the previous 
tenant has left a quantity of Chrysanthemum-roots, 
which are just beginning to start. 1 want to move 
these into a different position. How shall I proceed? 
What is the process of dividing the roots to make 
more plants? An answer through your paper would 
much oblige.—W. B. 

[These can be divided quite easily, though 
some kinds are more easily managed than 
others. Those which develop numerous un¬ 
derground sucker-like growths take more 
kindly to this treatment than any others. If 
carefully lifted, these sucker-like growths 
may each be detached with numerous roots 
adhering, and if these pieces be replanted 
firmly there is no reason why they should 
rot grow away freely. The old plants may 
also be pulled to pieces, and these will soon 
make niee plants. This can be done towards 
tho end of April. When planting them it 
would be well to add round the roots some 
fresh soil, as this will encourage the roots to 
take a hold in their fresh quarters.] 


ROSES. 

POT ROSES. 

The rather liberal amount of sunshine that 
we have recently enjoyed 1ms been of much 
benefit to the Roses under glass. The plants 
that are now showing bud should have a little 
help at the root. A teaspoonful per plant of 
Clay’s or other good manure will be of much 
benefit if it is just pointed into' the surface 
soil with the end of a label. The plants in¬ 
tended for the May exhibitions, and that are 
now breaking, will receive benefit from a 
dusting of bone-meal. Just cover the soil 
thinly and point it into the surface. Subse¬ 
quent waterings carry the small particles 
clown to the roots, and they quickly lay liold 
of same. If the plants have not yet been 
tied out, this should be done without delay. 
A string is placed beneath the rim of the 
pot and then a piece of bast is attached to 
the growth, and this is gently drawn down 
until the right position is obtained, then the 
bast is secured to the string. Subsequent 
tying out with Osier twigs is rendered much 
easier when this groundwork of tying out has 
been performed. A careful look out must be 
k^pt for aphides, as they do much harm to 
the young growths. As soon as one or two 
are seen, fumigate immediately. 

Great care is needful just now with the 
oung grafted plants, am they often collapse 
rom over-watering. On fine mornings 
syringe lightly, and spray over the hot-water 
)ipes now and then on the afternoons of 
night days, which causes aw vapour to arise 
imd which is helpful to the young foliage. 
Batches of Mme. N. Levavasseur should be 
brought into the forcing-house as they are re¬ 
quired. This is the finest acquisition we have 
bawl for many years. It is very dwarf, and 
produces huge ‘pyramidal trusses of blossom 
that present a wonderful glow of crimson 
colour bv artificial light. This plant strikes 
readily from cuttings, so that there should 
be no difficulty in having a large supply in 
order to have two and three batches of plants 
available. Other delightful Roses of the 
same character are Aschenbrodel and 
Katherine ZcimeJ^-me.-one a Lcully^esh-pink 
and the other sr ^w}| ^h/t o . WlHt£j ec could 


be made a very profitable business if taken 
up by market growers, as they now are by one 
or two only. I believe last season one firm 
in America imported as many as 5,000 or 
6,000 of Mme. N. Levavasseur, and the 
growers of that country very quickly fixed on 
a name for it. They call it the “Baby 
Rambler,” and it looks just like a huge pyra¬ 
midal bunch of Crimson Rambler poised on a 
tiny plant. Rosa. 


PRUNING ROSES. 

A BRIEF note as to the pruning of the various 
classes into which the Rose is divided may, 
perhaps, be opportune just now. The be¬ 
ginner would do well to provide himself with 
a catalogue of one of the leading Rose- 
growers, and he will generally see therein 
that the varieties are designated very vigor¬ 
ous, vigorous, robust, and moderate, and this 
will be a guide if used in conjunction with 
these brief notes. The question may arise in 
the mind why it is necessary to prune Roses? 
Is it not against nature to out away the fine 
growths made? If an examination be made 
of wild Roses of the hedgerows it will be 
found that the finest blossoms appear upon 
the wood of one and two years of age, and the 
older growths gradually deteriorate. In our 
cultivated Roses the same thing happens. If 
a Rose bush were allowed to grow like a Lilac 
bush we should have numbers of Roses, but 
of a second-rate quality, so that to obtain 
quality it is necessary to concentrate the en¬ 
ergies of the plant upon a few eyes or buds. 
Of course, there are numbers of Roses, such 
as the Rambler race, whose nature it is to 
yield large quantities of blossoms, and in 
their ease Rose growers do not restrict the 
young, vigorous wood, but rather relieve the 
plants of the decrepit, worn-out growths, and 
thus clear the wav for tho better development 
of the younger growths. 

Newly planted Roses should be severely 
pruned in order to form a groundwork. The 
very vigorous sorts cut back to about li feet; 
vigorous kinds Jli inches to 15 inches ; robust 
sorts to from 3 inches to 4 inches, and mode¬ 
rate growers to 2 inches. When planting in 
spring prune at same time. Standard Roses 
should have the heads kept well open and free 
of a lot of small shouts. Do not he afraid to 
get rid of the small shoots by rubbing them 
out during May and June* If retained they 
harbour a lot of insect pests. A point 1 
would emphasise is to get rid of wood more 
than two years old whenever it is possible to 
do so, excepting in certain sorts of single 
Roses species, etc., but, generally speaking, 
it is the one year well-ripened wood that gives 
the best results, and if the old wood is re¬ 
duced the energies of the plant must go to 
the production of young wood. 

Hybrid Perpetuals. - Very vigorous, 
prune to about 18 inches, small shoots 
I 2 inches to 3 inches ; vigorous, 12 inches to 
I 15 inches, side shoots 2 inches to 3 inches ; 
robust, 3 inches to 4 inches, side shoots 
l inch to 2 inches ; moderate, 2 inches to 
3 inches, side shoots 1 inch. 

Hybrid Tear.—S imilar to Hybrid Per 
petuals, but some of the very vigorous are 
best if trained upon walls. In that case the 
young growths are retained to almost full 
length, and the laterals shortened to 2 inches 
or 3 inches. 

Tea-scented. Very vigorous climbing 
i sorts, such os Gloire de Dijon, when on walls 
spread out well. but. retain young wood to 
almost full length. Side shoots shorten back 
from 1 inch to 6 indies ; vigorous. 4 inches 
to 6 inches if for show blooms, if for garden 
decoration leave about a foot long. One or 
two growths cut down to the ground each 
year, thus keeping up the supply of young 
wood, as this springs out from the base, where 
the old growths are cut back ; robust, prune 
to five or six eyes, side shoots to one or two 
eyes, and moderate, prune rather hard, say to 
about 2 inches or 3 inches of the ground. If 
the Tea Rose growths have passed the winter 
without the pith having been browned the 
growths may be, if desired, retained some 
considerable length, as they will blossom 
freely if not pruned at all for one season, but 
j where quality is desired there must be a mord 
I severe pruning to dormant plump eyes. 


Noisettes.—T hese are mostly of climbing 
habit, and should be treated as for very vigor¬ 
ous Tea-scented Roses. 

Polyantha. —Dwarf, perpetual flowering, 
should be very sparsely pruned if large bushes 
are wanted ; but if dwarf plants are wanted 
they may be cut down to the ground each 
year. 

China or Monthly Ruses prune as for 
Tea-scented. If used as hedges prune very 
sparsely. If cut down to the,ground these 
Roses are certain to blossom freely, and where 
the wood has been at all injured it is better 
to cut back bard, quite to the ground level. 

Bourbon Roses prune ns for Hybrid Per 
petuals. Some of the extra vigorous sorts, 
such aa Robust a, may be grown as free 
bushes, and only prune them very moderately. 
Peg dow n the long growths, or arch them over 
to each other, and you will have hoops of 
Roses, which may be cut away when the 
blooms have fallen. 

Moss, Damask, Alba. Gallica, and 
Ruuosa Roses should be freed of old wood, 
and the ripened young wood of last summer 
retained to about 18 inches long. In the ease 
of extra vigorous sorts, such as Rugosa 
Conrad F. Meyer, these may have the annual 
wood retained, some 5 feet to 6 feet long, and 
either hooped over or trained on pillars. 

Macartney Roses prune very sparingly. 

Briers of various sorts need only have the 
ends of their growths just tipped with a sharp 
knife, then they flower all over the growth. 

Hybrid Chinese, such as Blairii No. 2. 
may be treated as climbing Roses. Spread out 
the shoots, and do not shorten the yearling 
wood. Laterals cut back to from 3 inches to 
9 inches, according to their vigour. The 

Rambler Rohes are now very' numerous, 
but they may be all classed together as to 
their pruning. Endeavour to reduce the old 
wood annually just after flowering, and pre¬ 
serve as much as possible of the young wood. 
Open out the plants as much as possible. 
R< >se8 of the Dorothy Perkins type produce a 
number of long shoots, and from these others 
spring. It is these latter that need to be cut 
back nearly to their base. They w ill not fail 
to send out other young growths, which in 
time will yield fine clusters of blossoms. 
Crimson Rambler must have most of its old 
wood cut out annually. Should there be but 
little new wood this season allow some of the 
old shoots to blossom this summer, and then 
after flowering cut them away. This will aid 
the young rods, which should be growing 
from the base in all healthy plants. Shorten 
laterals according to their strength, the 
weakest cut back most severely, the stronger 
one leave 12 inches to 15 inches long. The 

Scotch Roses require no pruning. 

Rosa. 


ROSE CLIMBING DEVON1ENS1S ON 
ARCHES. 

It seems almost absurd to recommend this 
tender Rose for arches, and I should not do 
so unless the garden happens to be nicely 
sheltered ; but, given such aspect, it succeeds 
admirably. I was surprised to see this Rose 
upon an arch last summer in an old garden, 
but it was flowering freely upon the upper 
part of the arch. It is true it was planted 
with one or two other varieties upon the same 
arch, so that it obtained a certain amount of 
shelter. I should say to plant it with Loni- 
cera brachypoda would be an excellent plan, 
as this would afford a good shelter to tho 
Rose. Climbing Devoniensis is ro sweet that 
it is worth a little extra care in making it 
grow. It is, naturally, a shy bloomer at 
first, but the aim should be to have a number 
of lateral growths two or three years old, 
and from these, if they pass the winter un¬ 
harmed, a beautiful blossoming ensues. 
Where arches or pergolas are well covered it 
would be a. good plan to plant a few of the 
tender climbing Roses on the warm sides, and 
just train up among the hardier climbers one 
or two growths of the tender sorts, to give 
variety and beauty to -the arch or pergola. 
Any attempt on the part of the Roses to en 
croacli too, much may easily be regulated by 
the knife. If there happen to be any tall pot- 
plants to spare after the fprcing"seasou is 

over, these make' ekWtfeiTt material to fur- 

1 irtr 


1 

J 

3 

i 

i 
1 
I 

ii 

i 

ii 
ii 

i 

i 

t 

1 

1 

1 


f 



Makcu 30, 1907 


GAUDEJVIJVG ILL USTRATE D. 


63 


nish the lower parts of the pergola posts or 
arches, varieties such as Marie Van Iloutte, 
Anna Ollivier, Coralliua. etc., being splendid 
for the purpose. If hardened off and plan¬ 
ted in a good, well-prepared hole in May or 
June, the autumnal appearance of these per¬ 
golas will be much improved. Rosa. 


ROSE COMTES6E DE SAXE. 

It seems doubtful whether this fine new Rose 
should not be placed among the Hybrid Teas, 
but as the raisers, Messrs. Soupert ct Not- 
ting, call it » Tea, we shall possibly find the 
Rose so designated in other lists. It is re¬ 
putedly a cross between a Tea Rose, Lconie 
Osterieth and the H.T. Souvenir de Mine. 
Eugene Verdier. We have in Com tease de 
Saxe an exhibition Rose of no mean order, a 
flower that possesses that fine high centre 
lhat exhibitors love so well. By judicious 
thinning and disbudding this Rose is capable 
of yielding very large blossoms, similar in 
size to those of Souvenir de Mine. Eugene 
Verdier. I have had enormous blooms of this 
latter Rose upon pot specimens where they 


of growth, and delicious fragrance which we 
all desire? 

Comtesse de Saxe promises to be a splendid 
i pot-Rose, and as it yields its blossoms on 
good stiff stems, it should be in much demand 
I for this purpose. It was introduced in 1904, 
and Messrs. Soupert ot Not ting are to he 
congratulated upon the excellent Roses they 
raise, including as they do fine sorts like 
Mine. Jules Gravcreaux, George Laing Paul. 
Angel I’eluffo, Annie Marie Soupert, and 
j Mine. Edmee Metz. Raisers should try and 

* produce some more richly-coloured varieties, 
i of which we now are so very deficient among 

* the Hybrid Teas. Gruss an Sangerhausen 
1 is a stop in the right direction, but it has 

a weak flower-stalk, which causes the bios 
som to droop. In spite of this defect, I would 
advise all Rose-growers to obtain it. 

Rosa. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Removing Rose-bushes at Easter (G. II. 

Bryant ).—If you must disturb the Roses, you 
should lose no time in doing so ; but do not 



Rose Comtesse de Saxe. From a photograph in Messrs. B. R. Cant and Son’s nursery 
at Colchester. 


received liberal treatment. The colour of 
Comtesse de Saxe is poreelaiu-white, centre 
slightly shaded with creamy-yellow, some¬ 
thing of the tint of Amateur Teyssier, but, 
perhaps, with a little more depth of the cream 
shading. There have been comparatively few 
continental novelties during the last two or 
three years that one could term good show 
Roses, and, undoubtedly, the best for this 
purpose have been produced in the British 
Isles. We should really welcome more from 
the continent if raisers would strive for 
quality of bloom. The garden Roses arc 
splendid, and I would not say one word 
against them, but I have found the general 
public tire somewhat of this class. They 
frequently want the impossible—viz., quality 
of blossom combined with decorative value. 

I was reflecting recently upon the remark¬ 
able success attending the early productions 
of Mons. Pernet LJueher, such as Souvenir 
du President Carnot, Souvenir de Mme. 
Eugene Verdier, and Mme. Abel Chatenay. 
Probably this last variety is grown now in 
larger quantities than ftfjy <Hher Hybril l^a, 
and can anyone bo surAris^d^af ‘bisV/ofi^loes 
it not combine the wealttiof colouring) vigour 


I pot them up. This would have answered in 
October or November, but it is too late now. 
j Your best plan will be to dig up the plant-s as 
i soon as you have decided to move, and heel 
them in in a shady spot until Easter, when 
1 you say you can replant the bushes in their 
new quarters. Just plant them so that they 
may be kept clean by hoeing, and tlien re¬ 
plant again next autumn. Prune hack plants 
to 3 inches or 4 inches at time of planting. 
Of course, it is a pity to disturb the plants, 
and we take it that you would be unable to 
arrange with the new tenant for you to pos¬ 
sess the plants in the autumn. If he would 
purchase them of you, your best plan would 
be to sell them and procure a fresh stock in 
the autumn. 

Rose stocks. I think the time is near at 
hand when Rose growers will employ other 
stocks for budding Rases upon than those 
usually adopted, and if I were to hazard a 
guess I should say some of the Wichuraiana 
I tribe will be selected especially for Tea 
Roses. These Wichuraiana Roses strike so 
freely that there is no difficulty in rais¬ 
ing a stock; and, as to their hardiness, 
even those with Tea blood appear perfectly 


immune from injury by frost. I wish the 
time would arrive when we could obtain all 
our glorious Tea Roses and those of kindred 
nature on their own roots, for then we should 
see plants free from the blemishes that seem 
to belong to the budded state. I am con¬ 
vinced that we have yet much to learn as re¬ 
gards the nature of the different tribes to¬ 
wards each other, and one wishes for an ex¬ 
perimental Rose garden, where such work 
could be carried out.—W. X. 


ROOM AND WINDOW. 

NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Table plants I have a span-roofed greenhouse, 
measuring about 20 feet by 12 feet, and I am de¬ 
sirous of keeping some table plants useful for de¬ 
coration. I have* heat,-but want to keep the house 
more as a cold house.: Can you give me the names 
of about twenty plants (other than Ferns) that will 
vary in tint and at the same time be bushy? I would 
prefer all of them not more than 2 feet high and 
non-flowering. —A., Derbyshire. 

[We presume you intend to use fire heat 
during the winter. If so, the following 
plants will succeed in a structure that has a 
minimum winter temperature of 45 dogs, to 
50 degs. No fire heat will bo needed in the 
summer. Aralia Sieboldi, an upright-grow¬ 
ing plant, furnished with large, dark-green- 
lobed leaves of a leathery texture; Aralia 
Sieboldi variegata, a form of the preceding, 
whose leaves are irregularly bordered with 
white; Araucaria cxeelsa (Norfolk Island 
Pine), a symmetrical growing plant, whofe 
brandies, furnished with small, needle- 
shaped leaves, are borne in regular tiers. As¬ 
pidistra lurida is a well-known and popular 
plant for indoor decoration; Aspidistra 
lurida variegata, a variegated-leaved variety 
of the preceding ; Asparagus plumosus nanus, 

I delicate Fern-like foliage, borne on firm, wiry 
stems; Asparagus Sprengeri, leaves broader 
than those of the preceding. Coprosma 
Baucriana variegata is a neat shrub, whose 
I roundish leaves, each about an inch in dia¬ 
meter, arc of a bright shining green, heavily 
edged with yellow; Chlorophytum elatiim 
, variegatum, a symmetrical growing plant, 

I with Grass-like leaves a foot to 15 inches in 
length, and about half-an-inch in width, 
bright green, margined with a creamy tint; 
Cordyline australis, a regular growing plant, 
with Grass-like leaves. Cordyline -congests, 
forms an upright stem, clothed with dark- 
green leaves; Cordyline Eockhautei, lias an 
upright stem, clothed with long, strap-shaped 
leaves, that arch over in an exceedingly grace¬ 
ful manner; Cyperus alternifolius, a Sedge,. 
I whoso grassy leaves, borne on erect, stems, 
are arranged a good deal like the ribs of an 
umbrella; Cyperus alternifolius variegatus, 

| a variety of the preceding, some of whose 
' leaves arc variegated with white; Eurya lati- 
| folia variegata is a neat, freelv-branched 
shrub, whose leaves are somewhat like those 
of a Camellia, arc marked with green, yellow, 

I and pink, in varying proportions. Isolepis 
' gracilis forms a dense tuft of dark green, 
Grass-like leaves, that hang over so as to 
almost, if not quite, hide the pot; Ophio- 
pogon jaburan argenteo-variegatuin, nume¬ 
rous strap-like leaves, about a quarter of an 
inch wide, and freely variegated with white; 
Ophiopogon spicatum aureo- variegatum, 
leaves variegated with yellow. Veronica An- 
clersoni variegata is a much-branched shrill), 

I whose leaves are freely variegated with white, 
and Yucca filamentosa variegata is a harnl- 
somo foliage plant, bordered deeply with 
white.] 

Aspidistra flowering (T).--The flowering will 
not cfo any harm, as we have never met. with a case 
where seed was produced. We have several plants 
(lowering now. It is a common thing for old plants 
to blossom, but we have never observed that they 
I look any the worse for it, and the flowers are in¬ 
teresting resting on the surface of the soil. We find 
that those plants that flower freely always develop 
1 plenty of new leaves. 


“The English Flower Garden and Home 
Grounds.” New Edition, 10th, revised, with descrip¬ 
tions oJ all the best plants, trees., and shrubs, their 
culture and arrangement, illustrated on wood. Cloth, 
medium, Svo., 15s.; post free, 15s. 6d. 

“The English Flower Garden" may also be 
I had finely bound in S vols., half morocco. tUs. nett. Of 
| all booksellers. 








64 


March 30, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 



OROHIDS. 

CYPRIPEDIUM ALCIBIADES. • 
The illustration represents a very fine variety i 
of the above-named hybrid, which was raised I 
in Major Holford’s collection at Tetbury, its 
parents being C. Leeanum giganteum x C. 
Mons. de Curte. The dorsal sepal is white, J 
over 3} inches across, with a green base, and 
numerous rows of purple dots, the petals and , 
lip yellow, tinged and marked with brown. In I 
growth, foliage, and inflorescence it resembles 
both parents, and, like them, it has a robust 
constitution, and is worthy of a place among 
the many choice forms of the cooler growing 
Cypripediums. Plants of this hybrid will now 1 
be in a sufficiently advanced state of growth to 
allow any necessary potting, or resurfacing, to 
be carried out. The pots should be of mode¬ 
rate dimensions, according to the size of each 
plant. Cypripediums do not require so much 
drainage as many other Orchids; indeed, 
about one third the depth of the pot 
will be amply sufficient. It is essential 
that the compost should be of a reten¬ 
tive nature, and it should consist of 
lumps of fibrous loam and peat, with 
some of the finer particles shaken out, 
using it in equal proportions, adding a 
moderate amount of chopped Sphagnum 
Moss, with a liberal sprinkling of fine 
broken crocks, and a little coarse silver 
sand. These ingredients should be tho¬ 
roughly well mixed together, and then 
pot the plants with moderate firmness 
iu a similar manner to any ordinary 
greenhouse plant, leaving sufficient 
space below the rim of the pot for hold¬ 
ing water. The repotted plants will re¬ 
quire careful watering until they are 
fairly established, after which, and all 
through the growing period, copious 
supplies are necessary. Those speci¬ 
mens which have not been disturbed at 
the roots, and have only been top- 
dressed, will require an abundance of 
water. Keep the plants in a cool, moist 
part of the intermediate-house, where 
the night temperature has a range of 
between 50 degs. and 60 degs. They 
appreciate a moderately light position, 
but not direct sunshine, and on all 
bright sunny days a light spraying over¬ 
head with char tepid rain water is al¬ 
ways beneficial. With rare plants of 
this kind it is generally found desirable 
to increase the stock as quickly as pos¬ 
sible, or to obtain as many leading 
growths as the plant is capable of pro¬ 
ducing, so as. in one or two seasons, to 
be able to make a good flowering speci¬ 
men. To increase the stock of any 
plant having more than one leading 
growth it may be divided, and each 
piece pottud separately, as previously 
advised for the older examples. Where 
more leading growths or back breaks 
arc desired, and the plant is thoroughly 
well rooted, the rhizome may be severed 
at the base of each back growth, which 
in time will send out young shoots from 
their base, ami thus produce a compact 
specimen, which in a few years, if 
properly cultivated, would make a handsome 
plant. W. H. W. 

GROWING COOL ORCHIDS. 

I have a range of houses, vinery, conservatory, and 
Peach-house, having a southerly aspect, the two 
former heated when necessary, though a Are is not 
kept going regularly through the winter. I have, 
separate from this, another house, with a south-west 
aspect, and unheated. Will you kindly let me know 
whether I could grow any kinds of Orchids iu these 
houses— i.e., are there any sufficiently hardy for such 
a purpose? If there are, will you kindly name a few? ; 
If you could give a series of short articles dealing 
with the culture of hardy Orchids, I am sure it would 
interest many of your readers.—X. 

[In your.yjnery and Peach-house the fol-| 
lowing Orchids may be grown with every 
chance of success, provided ordinary care be j 
exercised as regards watering, etc. Before I 
naming the most suitable Orchids, it may be 
advisable to mention that only those showy 
varieties are included, with which, after a 
few months of careful attention, _the grower 
will be delighted when his care. : s ^warded 
by ihe productioi \ofg t\efi flowers. I 


Dendrobium nobile, D. Wardianum, D. cras- 
sinode, D. lituiflorum, D. fimbriatum, D. 
thyrsifloruin, the distinct D. Victoria Regina, 
which produces purplish-blue flowers, and 
the Australian D. speciosum, Lidia ancepsj 
L. autumnnlis, L. pumila, Pleione maculata, 
P. lagenaria, and Odontoglossum citrosmum 
may be grown in shallow pans or the ordi¬ 
nary flower-pot, preferably the latter. Which¬ 
ever is used, suitable copper-wire handles 
should be neatly attached to them, in order 
to suspend the plants as near to the 
roof-glass as possible. When growing 
Orchids in this manner it is best to have 
them potted in two-thirds fibrous peat, in 
lumps, the remainder living Sphagnum Moss, 
and small crocks, the whole being well mixed 
together. A mixture of sand is nut advisable. 
Growers of experience find that the roots 
sent out into the peat are more easily kept 
good under adverse circumstances, especially 
in winter, than those in any other material. 
The Sphagnum Moss, however, is useful, par 


practicable, of from 2 feet to 4 feet from the 
glass, and where they can be conveniently 
protected from strong sunshine and given a 
position out of the way of cold draughts. 
The following would make a good selection to 
commence with, and, if fairly treated, will 
yield a fine display of bloom during a greater 
part of the year : —Cypripedium insigne and 
its varieties, C. Leeanum, C. Charlesworthi, 
C. Spicerianum, C. villosum, Epidendrum 
viteliinum, E. radicans, Cymbidium Lowi- 
anura, C. eburneum, C. Tracyanum, 
Coelogyne cristata. Lycaste Skinneri, Calan- 
the veratrifolia, Phaius grandifolius, Zygo- 
petalum Mackayi, some Cattleyas. as C. 
labiata, C. Triana?, C. Mossise, C. Skinneri, 
etc. Luelia purpurata and a few of the 
cheaper Laelio-Cattleyas may be experi¬ 
mented with. In your conservatory a few 
plants such as Cnttleya citrina, Lielia albida, 
Vanda coerulea, Dendrobium nobile, and D. 
Wardianum may be suspended from the roof. 
These species like plenty of air, but strong, 


Flower of Cypripedium Alcibiades. From a photograph in Sir Trevor Lawrence's jjnrden at 
Burford Lodge, Dorking. 


tieularly during the growing season, as it pre- j 
serves a healthy moisture around the plant. | 
Whilst growth is being made the plants I 
should be carefully examined two or three 
times a week, and as each one becomes pro¬ 
perly dry a thorough watering should be 
afforded. This treatment should be closely | 
followed until each plant begins to complete I 
its season’s growth, when the amount of water 
should be gradually discontinued. In the 
autumn, when the sun commences to lose its j 
power, also during the winter months, the , 
plants should be watered as little as possible, | 
consistent with preserving the pseudo-bulbs 
in a fairly plump condition, taking every care , 
not to over-water a plump plant. Whenever 
the weather is cold, and the inside tempera¬ 
ture is below 50 degs., it is advisable to pre¬ 
serve a comparatively dry atmosphere, stag¬ 
nant damp for any length of time, especially 
at night, being more fatal than cold. 

There are, besides those mentioned, other 
Orchids which may be grown in the same 
houses on open stages, at a distance, where 


direct sunshine on the young growths is in¬ 
jurious if they be exposed to ite influence for 
any length of time. 

The separate house mentioned appears to 
be a suitable one for growing such species as 
Disa grandiflora and others of this genus; 
also such pretty Orchids as the Satyriums. 
The Disas thrive best in pots or pans in a 
mixture of two-thirds dark, boggy peat, 
broken into small lumps, one-third Sphagnum 
Moss, and soft sandstone broken up into 
moderately-sized pieces. If there be no sand 
in the pent a little should be added. At the 
present time these plants should be growing 
freely, and will need to be well supplied 
with rain water; the under-sidcs of the leaves 
should be frequently syringed in order to 
keep them clean and free from insect pests, 
and the plants should be surrounded with 
moisture until the flower-spikes appear; 
then, if the atmosphere be naturally damp, 
the syringing should be discontinued, but the 
plants should stil! be freely supplied with 
water until their flowers fade. As the foli- 








March 30, 190? 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


flj 


ago di*:n down 11 it; amount of water must bo 
gradually lessened, but while at rest they 
must not be kept too dry. With proper care 
and attention they will begin to grow again 
in October or November, when repotting may 
be carried out. The South Afri ran Satyriums 
require similar treatment whilst growing, but 
so soon as the plants lose their foliage they 
should be kept perfectly dry until growth re- 
oommenees, when they should be repotted 
and watered freely. The proper compost for 
these plants is a mixture of one-half peat, the 
other half turfy loam and sand. Bonatea 
speciosa and Orchis foliosa also require the 
same kind of treatment and attention. We 
hope to deal by-and-bye with the cult are of 
hardy Orchids. Many thanks for your kind 
suggestion.] 


FRUIT. 

STRAWBERRIES IN POTS. 

The forcing of these will be in active pro¬ 
gress now, and with longer sunny days water¬ 
ing will need attention. Occupying, as they 
do, the same pots n.s during the summer of 
last year, the pots are necessarily filled with 
active feeders. The exhaustion of the soil fol¬ 
lowing such continued occupancy renders it 
necessary to give stimulants of some kind. 
Drainings from the farmyard are, perhaps, the 
most valuable plant food, but it is not every¬ 
one who has such. Cow and horse droppings 
may each be soaked in tubs or tanks, and be 
employed for the daily waterings in a diluted 
state with much advantage; but perhaps a 
greater proportion of your readers depends 
on dry chemical manures for surface dressings 
of the pots. There are so many of these 
manures that are suitable for Strawberries 
that it would almost seem invidious to par¬ 
ticularise. It may, however, be said that a 
change of diet is advisable, not confining one¬ 
self to any one particular kind. Some soils 
are more sensitive than others to the employ¬ 
ment of certain kinds of chemical manures, 
so that it may be found that better results 
follow the use of one manure over those of 
another. Next to healthy growth and judici¬ 
ous feeding comes the setting of the flowers. 
Here, again, no uniform law exists, for some 
growers can secure good crops of pot-grown 
Strawberries without any attempt at fer¬ 
tilising the flowers, while others have to em¬ 
ploy some means for setting the fruit. If the 
flowers are not perfectly set it will be found 
that the berries are deformed, and in extreme 
cases of no value whatever as dessert, so that 
Attention should be directed to this appa¬ 
rently trivial, but very important, matter. 
Shelves undoubtedly are the best places for 
Strawberries in pots. These must not be 
under the shade of Vines or other trees, or 
the results will not be favourable. There is 
also the danger of red-spider attacking the 
Vines, which is a serious matter. Daily 
syringing with clear water is the most effec¬ 
tive remedy against the introduction and the 
spread of red-spider. Cold, cutting winds, 
and imperfect ventilation, sometimes invite 
another trouble—mildew. Strawberry fruits 
coated with this white fungus are useless, and 
once established there is not much hope of 
clearing it out. Flowers of sulphur is prob¬ 
ably the simplest and most efficacious, but 
when this is used syringing must for the time 
being cease. Some use saucers to stand the 
pots in ; others, again, prefer to line the 
shelves with green Moss. The latter is much 
the better when watering is attended to. 
Saucers filled with water are apt to sour the 
soil unless much care is given, and once this 
happens it is hopeless expecting fully-grown 
and well-flavoured fruit. Previous to 
gathering, the soil should he allowed to be¬ 
come somewhat drier for a short time, this 
helping the flavour. W. S. 


The cure for big-bud.— Mr. Walter E. 
Collinge, of the University Department of 
Economic Zoology, Birmingham, writing to 
a contemporary, says: “May I draw the 
attention of all growers of Bla. k Currants to 
; m nnrtnnce of treating their trees with 
.?* nd sulphur* wherever affected with the 
n^krurrlntgall-mite? The first application, 
SchoolJ be d^oyhnnklL uiron 



at the cud of this mouth. One part of ground 
unslaked lime to tw’o parts of sulphur by 
weight. The second application should be 
put on a fortnight later, and consist of 
slightly less than one part of lime to two and 
a quarter parts of sulphur. A fortnight after 
this again dust with still less lime—say, half 
a part to two and a half of sulphur. The 
dusting should take place in the early morn¬ 
ing. when the dew is on the bushes. This 
method of treatment has proved most effec¬ 
tive, and I shall be glad to learn of the re¬ 
sults of any who use it this season.” 


TREATMENT OF CORDON PEARS. 

[ have just finished planting a number of single, 
oblique cordon Apple, Pear, and Plum-trees, and 
espalier Apple-trees, also fan-trained Peach, Cherry, 
Morello Cherry, and Plum. I should be glad if you 
can advise me, through your valuable paper, how to 
treat or prune them, ami when? They are mostly 
two and three years old, last season's shoots varying 
from 6 inches to 3 feet and even 4 feet in length, the 
fan-trained Plum-trees having the longest growth.— 
F. White. 

[The amount of pruning that your cordon- 
trained trees of the Apple, Pear, and Plum 
will require depends entirely on their con¬ 
dition. If the wood is well ripened you may 
shorten the leading shoots back to one-third 
of their length, but if, on the contrary, they 
are weak and immature it would be best to 
cut them back harder, or, say, two-thirds ; at 
any rate, to where the wood is firm, 60 as to 
obtain a gcod break with which to extend the 
trees. It sometimes happens with regard to 
some varieties of Pears that the leading 
shoots produce nothing but fruit buds when 
cultivated as cordons. These must, as a 
matter of necessity, be sacrificed on trees just 
planted, or which have not yet filled their 
allotted space, otherwise they will never ex¬ 
tend vertically or obliquely, as the case may 
be. Therefore, if any of your trees are in 
this condition you must cut the leader back 
hard to a prominent wood-bud, and repeat 
this process year after year until the trees 
reach their full limit. Cordons, two and 
three years old, should have fruiting spurs on 
the lower portions of the stems, with young 
growths on them. These latter require cut¬ 
ting back to three and four buds in the case 
of Apples nnd Pears, and from four to five 
buds on Plums, as the last named resent 
being too closely pruned. We may also men¬ 
tion incidentally that cordon Plums invari¬ 
ably need to be lifted the second season after 
planting, as they grow too strong to bear 
fruit if not so treated. Some varieties of 
Apples, and in a less degree Pears, also re¬ 
quire lifting to induce fruitfulness, but in 
this you must be guided by the amount of 
growth they make ; if it is rank and excessive 
then you may know' that it has become neces¬ 
sary. 

Taking espalier-trained trees next, and 
supposing they already possess from two to 
three tiers of branches, with a leader, the 
first thing is to shorten the latter back to 
9 inches or 12 inches, according to the dis 
tance the existing branches stand apart from 
each other. In this case the topmost bud 
where you cut back to, will in duo course 
break and form a shoot, and extend the stem 
upwards. The two best situated buds below 
this one should when they break be encour¬ 
aged to form 6hoots, one on either side of the 
stem, to form another tier of branches with, 
suppressing all growths below them, as we 
consider that with the exception of the 
points from where the branches originate 
espaliers should always have clean stems, 
and not be encumbered with spurs. The 
latest formed pair of branches, or these pro¬ 
duced last season, should, if well ripened, be 
cut back to one-third of their length, and 
see that both are of equal length. Treat the 
young shoots or leading growths on the older 
branches in the same manner each season, 
until they reach their limit, after which they 
will need to be pruned in the same way as 
ordinary spurs. The stems will also need to 
be extended vertically in the manner already 
described, until the desired height is reached, 
when there will be no further need for a 
“ leader,” and should be dispensed with. 

We also tender you much the same advice 
in regard to the pruning of fan-trained trees 
of the different kinds of fruit you name as for 


cordons. If the wood is well ripened, cut 
them back one-third, and if not, two-thirds of 
their total length in all cases. With respect 
to the training of these trees, you cannot do 
better than take an open fan as your guide, 
and imagine the two lowermost branches cr 
shoots to represent the two lower or diagonal 
ribs of the fan, with the others radiating be¬ 
tween these two points at equal distances 
apart. If the young shoots are pruned to an 
equal length, and then trained out as advised, 
bringing the lowermost on cither side of the 
stem down until they are at right angles with 
the stem, or nearly so, with the remainder 
placed equidistant, the foundation of the 
future trees will be properly formed at the 
outset. It is the neglect of so doing that is 
responsible for the numbers of one-sided and 
badlydormed trees that are so often seen up 
and down the country.] 


NOTES AND HE PLIES. 

Apples for espaliers.—I planted last November 
a dozen maiden Apples on Paradise with the view of 
growing them into four or five armed cordons round 
a hoop. 1 cut them down to within about 14 inches 
to 16 inches of the ground. Now I should like to 
make four of them espaliers, low, say, two tiers, and 
1 should be very much obliged if you would tell me 
which of the kinds would be the most suitable for 
espaliers? The varieties are: Bismarck, Warner’s 
King, Peasgood's Nonsuch, Chas. Ross, Jas. Grieve, 
Gascoigne’s Scarlet, The Queen, Stirling Castle, and 
Blenheim Orange.—C ordon. 

[Of the nine varieties of Apples named in 
your list, we think James Grieve, Charles 
Ross, Bismarck, and Peasgood’s Nonsuch are 
four most likely to suit your purpose. On 
some soils The Queen forms a good espalier, 
but on heavy loams it is rather too strong a 
grower to succeed as such, and this latter 
remark also applies to Blenheim Orange. 
Gascoigne’s Seedling, and Warner’s King. 
If you have a sandy or light loamy soil to 
deni with, you may substitute either The 
Queen or Gascoigne’s Scarlet for Peasgood’s 
Nonsuch.] 

Strawberry The I*axton for forcing —Will 

you please give me your opinion on The Laxton 
Strawberry for forcing? I layered about 150 plants 
last August, in 3-inch pots, and put them into 6-inch 
and 7-inch pots October 20th, in a compost of loam, 
leaf-mould, decayed manure, and a dash of bone- 
meal and sand. I potted them fairly firmly, and kept 
them in a cold-frame until the first week in Febru¬ 
ary, when I put fifty plants into a house with a 
temperature of 50 (legs, to CO degs. by day, sometimes 
more by sun-heat. They are growing very strong 
and leafy, but there are no signs of flower-stems. Do 
you think they will be likely to fruit? What would 
be best to do with 100 pots 1 still have in cold-frame 
yet? Any information will be thankfully received.— 
Dublin. 

[The Laxton Strawberry, however good 
and prolific it is when grown outdoors, is not 
adapted for forcing, and this, in a great 
measure, will account for your failure. All 
the same, it is strange that some few of the 
plants did not push up flower-spikes, because 
the season is now getting pretty well ad¬ 
vanced. You have subjected the plants to 
rather more heat than is advisable for Straw¬ 
berries in the early stages of forcing, 45 degs. 
by night and 50 degs. by day being ample 
until the flower-spikes push up. Too much 
warmth and the unsuitability of the variety 
for forcing are, no doubt, mainly, if not 
wholly, responsible for the plants being 
sterile. There is also the possibility of some 
of them having been blind. We should ad¬ 
vise you to throw the plants you have in 
heat away, and keep the remainder in the 
cold-frame, well airing them by day and 
shutting up and protecting the frame at 
night, when they come into bloom. By these 
means you will be able to obtain a few dishes 
in advance of the outdoor crop, provided, oF 
course, these plants do not behave in a simi¬ 
lar manner to those you have forced. If they 
flower anil fruit satisfactorily you will then 
have ample and further proof that the variety 
in question is not a “forcer.” A good early 
variety for the above-named purpose is Royal 
Sovereign, which produces good crops of 
magnificent fruit, if properly managed ; and 
this we advise you to grow another season. 
We shall be glad if other growers who may 
have tried The Laxton for forcing will give 
us their opinion of its value for this purpose.] 


ndex to Volume XXVIII. The bindiiiR covers 
ice Is. 6*1. each, post frep. Is. 9d.) and Index (3*1., 
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UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



March 30, 1007 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


07 


qarden work. 


Conservatory. Bulbs in the conservatory 
■ re now very bright and effective. A few good 
clumps of Solomon’s Seal are distinct and 
attractive, and associate well with Dielytra 
s nee tab ilia. Gladiolus Thu Bride, and, 

though not often seen, Ixias and Sparaxis, do 
\v?ll in pots, and the flowers aro nice for 
cutting. I do not think Hyacinths, as wo 
ust*d to grow them in single pots, are so 
popular as they were. We seem to want pots 
e. il filled, lienee three bulbs are placed in a 
pci. all either of one colour or mixed, though, 
when mixed, varieties which flower about tlm 
same time should bo selected. Tulips are 
penally started in boxes in a subdued light, 
if required for cutting, to get a good length 
of stem, but this length of stem is not re¬ 
quired when the bulbs as they come into 
nnwer are transferred to pots o'r vases. By 
u.iv of a change, small Ferns are sometimes 
worked in among the bulbs when required for 
the room, though they are not required when 
iH*d for massing in the conservatory. Bulbs 
which have floweret! in the conservatory 
"houId 1 >3 hardened off in n cold frame ai 
tin'll planted out iu the borders. Though of 
!•'» u.->e for foi'i-ing next year, they will flower 
in the bonier. There is generally room for 
the*#* things to be grouped among the shrubs 
pi the open places or round (lie margin, 
(hillings of tin* lyest winter-flowering plants 
"truck now and helped on for a time in heat 
will make nice little plants for next winter's 
flowering in -f inch puts, and these small pots 
f-riii lx- placed on a shelf near the glass iu 
■September. Malmaison Carnations—in fact, 
nil Carnations for flowering under glass 
must have fre« ventilation. A light house, 
well ventilated, is the place for nil Carna¬ 
tions. Those of the American or Tree sec¬ 
tion intended for winter flowering will, when 
the weather becomes genial, he placed on a 
bed of coal-ashes in the open air. Sow Bal¬ 
sams and Cel os i ns in heat for flowering in the 
conservatory in the summer. 

Stove.- The variegated-leaved Begonias 
were at. one time great favourites, but are not 
now so common. I once Saw a bank of these 
plants against rv wall in a small shady stove, 
and very attractive they were. The bank was 
supported by wires, and the front lined with 
green Moss. These plants are easily propa¬ 
gated from leaves, in the same way as 
Gloxinias are increased, either by laying the 
leaves flat on sandy ]>eat in pans, with the 
mid-rib severed at intervals, and kept close 
r.n the Rand. If the stems of the leaves are 
inserted in pans or pots filled with sandy 
p?at, bulbs will form at the base of the cut¬ 
ting. The Streptocnrpus is easily raised 
from seeds hoiv. and is just the plant for the 
amateur's small house, and should he potted 
f *n if fine specimens are wanted till they are 
in 7-inch pots. They flower very freely, and 
there is a considerable range of colour in the 
fLwers. Yonng cuttings of Begonia Globe 
<le f/orraine and its varieties will strike now 
in sandy j>ont in a. warm propngating-oase, 
nnd should he grown on during summer till 
they are in fl inch pots. Nice specimens can 
h<*grown in this size pot, and they are Ixuiuti- 
ful in boskets. 

Ferns under glass. All the hardier Ferns 
ran soon be grown into 'Specimens, but the 
delicate sj>cou*fl take time. All the As- 
pleniums. which produce little offshoots on 
the fronds, may easily lie increased by tak¬ 
ing them off and fixing them on the surface of 
mainly soil iu shallow boxes, keeping them 
in heat till progress has been made. All the 
usual greennoiise Ferns require warmth to 
push them along when small. Later they 
will do in an ordinary greenhouse tempera¬ 
ture; and. of course, in summer the larger 
plants may be planted or plunged out in a 
shady dell, to create, in association with 
other fine-foliaged plants, a rich, tropical 
pffeet. Spores of any kind of Fern may be 
»own now in pots of rather heavy foam 
covered with glass, and the pots stood 
saucers to hold water, as all the moisture re¬ 
quired must be drawn up from below'. Young 
specimens may be shifted into larger pots. It 
is never worth while, in dealing with cheap, 
easilv-raised Ferns, wasting^ime in resting 
to health a plant whiel/has^ojjt tom* |r^» 


any cause. Fill baskets with Ncpbrolepis 
exaltata and other drooping kinds. Some of 
the Davallias are charming worked into balls 
like those the Japanese send us. 

Repotting hard-wooded plants.— During 
the next month many of the Australian 
plants may be repotted if they are pot-bound ; 
but, in the case of old plants, if the roots are 
in good condition, it is not necessary to re¬ 
pot annually, though, in some cases, it may 
be desirable to turn them out of the pots and 
see what condition the drainage is in. All 
the fine-rooted plants should have good 
fibrous pent, freely mixed with sharp sand, and 
the potting stick must l>e used to make the 
soil firm. Keep the collar of the plant well 
up, as to bury the collar of a Heath or an 
Azalea would be fatal. Many of the Aus¬ 
tralian plants, especially Acacias, will thrive 
if one-half the compost is yellow loam. After 
flowering, all hard-wooded things should l>e 
gone over, and all seed pods picked off. If 
any pruning is required it should receive 
attention before much grow th has been made. 
The syringe should be used freely to clear off 
dust and dead foliage, if any. 

Cucumbers. Those who have no suitable 
house for Cucumbers may commence opera 
tions now iu their hot-bods. A bed .‘I feet or 
-I feet high, if well put together, will grow 
('ucMiinhers wi ll. Of course, a frame is not 
equal to a low span roofed house for quantity, 
though for quality, as regards flavour, there 
is nothing to choose. A good variety of 
Telegraph is bawl to beat., where quality has 
to be considered. 

Window-boxes. — It is too soon yet to think 
about, tender plants, but hardy spring-flower¬ 
ing plants are cheap. Violas and Pansies 
are nice, and the Primrose family will supply 
brightness and sweetness. Forget-me-nots 
also are charming, especially when hacked 
up with dwarf yellow Wallflowers. Daisies 
and other simple things are appreciated by 
the town dwellers nt this season. 

Outdoor garden.— Evergreen trees and 
shrubs mnv he moved up to the middle of 
April, and, in careful hands, the work may 
be, in fact, is. done later. Now and during 
April is a good time to move Hollies. Many 
things fail from want of a little care during 
dry weather in April and May, especially in 
damping over foliage after a bright sunny day. 
Damping the foliage is of more value than 
giving so much water to the roots. I think 
sometimes too much water is given to the 
roots of newly planted evergreens. A good 
deal of the Rose pruning is done, but late- 
planted Roses should he cut hard back to 
give (lie plants a chance to get well estab¬ 
lished, and lay a foundation for future work. 
The propagation of Dahlias from cuttings will 
now he in progress. The Cactus and Pom¬ 
pon forms are the most popular in the gar¬ 
den. Very good plants of single flowered 
varieties may be raised from seeds, if helped 
on in heat. They make good mixed beds. 
Where large beds have to Ik? filled they ran 
he pegged down. All kinds of hardy annuals 
may be sown outside now. 

Fruit garden.— Recently planted Rasp¬ 
berries should be cut hack to within a few 
inches of the ground. Especially is this 
necessary where the canes are at. all weakly. 
Never, if it can be avoided, make new planta¬ 
tions from old, exhausted plants. Of course, 
autumn-bearingT»Raspheri‘ies are cut back to 
the ground every season after bearing. A 
mulch of good manure will be very beneficial 
to all Raspberries. Make up hot-beds for 
Melons. The beds should be substantial and 
built up with reasonable firmness. A mixture 
of tree-leaves and manure makes the. most 
serviceable beds. Lay sods of tuff under the 
hills of soil. Good sound loam, rather adhe¬ 
sive in character, mixed with a little bone- 
meal and a dash of soot and wood-ashes, 
forms a good compost for Melons, and should 
be pressed down, as the plants do best in a 
firm root-run. Melons should be grown with¬ 
out shade ; give a little ventilation early on 
bright mornings, and sprinkle and shut up 
early in the afternoon. Feed Strawberries 
on early border with good short manure. A 
top-dressing will be beneficial to all Straw¬ 
berry-beds, if it was not given in the autumn. 
A sprinkling of soot and lime may be used to 
keep off slugs and snails. 


Vegetable garden. Many people are busy 
now planting Potatoes, and if there is much 
to do, from the end of March to the middle 
of April is a good time to plant. As regards 
varieties, most people have their favourite 
kinds, which have proved their value in 
previous years, but a change of seed from 
Scotland, and possibly also from Ireland, will 
be an advantage, and will pay, even though 
the cost may be a little n^re. Duke of York, 
Windsor Castle, and The Factor may be 
planted by those who have no ideal varieties 
of their own. , They crop well, and the 
quality is good. H will soon he time to sow 
the main crop of Carrots. Those who have 
in the past had maggoty Carrots may try the 
effect of vaporite. It is not expensive, and is 
easily applied during the cultivating opera¬ 
tions. Those who depend largely upon 
Onions raised under glass may combine the 
culture with spring-planted Strawberries. I 
have seen very good crops raised in this way. 
Winter greens should lie sown now or very 
shortly. Ix*ek.s also should he sown for ordi¬ 
nary use. For exhibition the time for sowing 
has gone by. They are usually sown under 
glass. ’ E. Hobday. 

THE COMING WEEK'S WORK. 

Extracts from a Garden Diary. 

April Jut. All the hardiest of the bedding 
plants are being moved to cold frames, where, 
with a covering of mats at night, they will be 
quite safe. Sowed seeds of Low’s Salmon 
Queen nnd other varieties of Cyclamens. 
These will make strong plants for flowering in 
6-inch pots next year. We believe in early 
sowing and bringing the plants on quietly. 
Watered inside borders of fruit-houses with 
warm liquid-manure. Cool-houses are being 
planted with Tomatoes. 

April 2nd.— Finished pruning Tea and 
other Roses. Made a new plantation of Rhu¬ 
barb in rows 4 feet apart, at 4 feet intervals 
in the rows. Brussels Sprouts will be planted 
between the rows the first season. Moved 
all Chrysanthemums to cold-frames. Those 
plants which require root space are receiving 
a shift. Sowed main crop of Carrots. A 
succession of Horn Carrots will be sown up 
to June for drawing young. Planted out more 
Lettuces, and tied up early Lettuces to 
blanch. 

April 3rd .—The mowing machines are 
going their regular weekly rounds, and edg¬ 
ings are trimmed and straightened, so that 
all may be orderly and trim to the eye. 
Dahlias are being propagated from cuttings 
ns fast as they can be obtained. The cut¬ 
tings are inserted in sandy soil in thumbs and 
plunged in hot-bed, where roots quickly form. 
Potted Tuberous Begonias from boxes into 
single pots. Beds for Begonias will be made 
richer in mnnurial matters than is required 
for Geraniums and other plants. 

April Iflh .—We raise a good many tender 
annuals from seeds. These are now being 
pricked off, some singly, into pots, and others 
into boxes. All will be helped with a little 
bent at first. Shallow boxes are used for 
Lobelias and other small stuff, such as 
Stocks, Asters, etc. Sowed a collection of 
Pansies on a piece of well-worked ground. 
Pansies are often sown too late. If sown 
late, and there conies a dry summer, many 
seeds and plants fail. Anything very choice 
is sown in boxes, but we want a large number. 

April 5th .—Planted out round the shrub¬ 
bery borders a lot of bulbs which have been 
forced. The Narcissus family is planted in 
large numbers in the wilderness and among 
the Grass near the hedge in the orchard. Put 
in more cuttings of Salvia patens. We have 
also sown seeds, as we want a good stock of 
this plant. Sowed Autocrat Peas. Thq 
ground has .bev-'n deeply worked and manured. 
In ahallbw^mTs Peas in a dry summer nearly 
always fail. 

April Gth .—Sowed dwarf French Beans at 
the foot of a south wall. We can shelter them 
if it 1 fs,‘ frosty in May. Put in cuttings of 
Coleus thyrsoideus.. The Coleus as a foliage 
plant lias lost caste of late years, but C. 
thyrsoideus is useful for its flower effect in 
winter. Sowed more winter greens of vari¬ 
ous kinds, and also Lettijqes for succession. 
Small salading, such as Radishes, Cress, and 
Mustard ar< n is o t »n as required n u. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



G. I n / >E .A 7. \ Y; ILL! '-S'77/. / TED. 


.30. 100? 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

Questions.— Queries and answers are inserted in 
Gardening free of charge if correspondents follow these 
rules: All communications should be clearly and concisely 
written on one side of the paper only, and addressed to 
the Editor of Garden mo, 17, Furnival-street, Ilolbom, 
JMinion, E.C. Letters on business should be sent to the 
Publisher. The name and address of the sender are 
required in addition to any designation he may desire to 
be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, 
each should be on a separate piece of paper, and not more 
than three, queries should be sent at a time. Correspond 
dents should bear in mind that, as Gardening has to be 
sent to press some time in advance of date . queries cannot 
always be replied to in the issue immediately following 
the receipt of their communication. We do not reply to 
queries by post. 

Naming fruit.— Readers who desire our help in 
naming fruit should bear in mind that several specimens 
in different stages of colour and tire of the. same kind 
greatly assist in its determination. We have received from 
several correspondents single specimens of fruits for 
naming, these in many cases being unripe ami other¬ 
wise poor. The differences between varieties of fruits are 
in many cases so trijlino that it is necessary that three 
specimens of each kind should be sent. We can undertake 
to name only four varieties at a time , and these only when 
the above directions are observed. 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

Xris reticulata after flowering in pots 

(L. K. Wickham ).—After flowering, the bulbs should 
he allowed to ripen off naturally, and may be kept 
in the pots rather dry until the time of repotting, 
when any small bulbs should be picked out from the 
flowering ones, and planted in boxes of rich soil to 
grow for a year into flowering bulbs. 

Plants for damp soil ( Lady Norah Noel).— 
Almost any climbers will do in such a soil, if the 
precaution is taken to dig out the natural soil to a 
depth of 3 feet and as wide, putting into the bottom 
f. inches of rough clinkers or broken bricks. If this 
is done you can plant Ampelopsis, any of the Ivies. 
Clematises, Euonymtis radicans variegatus, Pyrus 
japonica, and many others, including the climbing 
Roses. We do not reply to queries by post. 

Plants for baskets (W.).— Ivy-leaved Pelargoni 
urns are useful plants for baskets, being easy to 
manage, free flowering, and very attractive when in 
bloom. Several of the Tropseolums are well adapted 
for the same purpose. Marguerites, Fuchsias, and 
PebuniaB are showy. The blue and white Campanu¬ 
las, such as C. isophylla and 1. alba, are delightful 
basket plants, being exceptionally free in bloom 
and of the easiest culture. Asparagus plumosus and 
several kinds of Ferns, as the Nephrolepis, also do 
well in baskets. 

Asparagus plumosus ( R. /?.).—Seedlings are 
much more easily raised than plants from cuttings, 
and they grow and do better in every way. Sow the 
seed in heat, and grow the plants on quickly in a 
cool stove temperature, with abundance of moisture 
both at the roots and in the atmosphere. The dif¬ 
ference between the ordinary A. plumosus and A. p. 
nanus is not great, the latter being merely a selec¬ 
tion of the most compact growing forms. Even the 
latter, if planted out and treated liberally, will “ run 
aw r ay ” sooner or later. For cutting we should prefer 
the larger form, as it grows more quickly and 
strongly. Train it on wires near the glass. 

Plants under greenhouse stage M.).—It will 
be useless to expect flowering plants to thrive in a 
border beneath a broad shelf or stage in a green¬ 
house on which pot-plants stand. There would not 
be the needful light, and there would be drip from 
the plants. The chief things for such a position are 
any dwarf Ferns, such as Adiantum capillus-Veneris 
anil A. cuneatum, Pteris serrulata, also some of the 
Mosses, such as Selaginella denticulata, Panicum 
vafiegatum, a trailing plant, and the variegated 
Ophiopogon. These things, not too thickly planted— 
the trailing plants being a carpet for the Ferns— 
would soon cover the ground and be very pleasing. 

Deutzia gracilis (J. Af. /I.).—The cause of the 
failure to bloom is unripened wood, brought about 
by your growing the plants in a north border. You 
ought to lift them now and transfer them to an open 
position in the garden, letting them have good rich 
soil. Water them freely during the summer, and 
mulch them with rotten manure so as to encourage 
a free growth. Given this treatment the plants ought 
to become strong, and the wood will ripen well. You 
can then pot up the plants in the autumn, and the 
following spring—that is, in 1908—they should flower 
freely. After flowering, the Deutzia should have nil 
the old and exhausted wood cut out so as to en¬ 
courage the young shoots from the bottom to de¬ 
velop. 

Plants for border (Amateur ).—The list of plant? 
available for your purpose is a very long one, and the 
difficulty is to make a selection, as you give us no 
idea of the size of the border, the position, or the soil. 
You can try Carnations (which should be planted 
at once), Liliums, Anemone japonica. Aster Amellup, 
A. ncris, Veronica longifolia, Physalis. l’apaver nudi- 
eaule, etc., etc. Your better plan will be to fill the 
space with such as Pelargoniums, Calceolarias, 
Lobelias, and other bedding plants. Many annuals, 
such as Mignonette, Stocks, Asters, Dianthus, etc., 
may also be used. You can then put in the hardy 
plants in the coming autumn. If you send us parti¬ 
culars as to the size of the border, etc., later on, 
we will be pleased to give you a selection of plants 
that will suit you. 

Plants for window-case (F. S.). — In such a 
small case facing south we think you would find the 
beat too great during the summer for all except 
plants of a succulent nature, and another advantage 
of such is that tbcT'wouId not so|n outgrow the 
limited space at Ihcir "ij lie/dWesrrr.hryan- 

theteiims form a 1 -Sff'llg succulents. 


and the gorgeous flowers of the Phylloeacti are 
always admired. With one or two Aloes, a small 
plant of the variegated-leaved American Aloe (Agave 
Hiuericana), Urassula coecinca, Rocliea falcata, the 
Rat's-tail Cactus, a few Gasterias and liaworthias, 
with some representatives of the miniature geometri¬ 
cal-shaped Cacti, a pretty and interesting group might 
be formed that would not be injured by the great 
heat of the summer’s sun. 

Camellias dropping tlieir buds (B. W\).—The 
usual cause of Camellias dropping their buds before 
they are expanded is lack of moisture at the roots. 
I’crhaps the white one which holds its buds is in a 
position where its roots are damper than is the case 
with the red one that sheds its buds. Any defective 
root action, whether caused by excessive dryness, too 
much moisture, a sudden check or rapid rise of tem¬ 
perature, will result in this bud dropping, but the 
first is the most frequent cause. 

The Mourning Iris Gris Susiana) (T. c. 11’.V- 
This is the largest species of the group known as 
Cushion Iris. You must so plant it that ii can have 
a definite season of growth and a definite season of 
complete rest by covering the roots from all chances 
of moisture, but in such n way that the sun may play 
on the plants. A bell-glass should be put over the 
bulbs, say, from mid July to the end of September, 
when the covering may be removed. The soil should 
be deep sandy loam and mortar-rubbish, or bone-meal 
may be freely added to the soil at planting-time, 
which is best done in the early autumn. The position 
should be quite open so that the plants may be 
ripened properly. It may be grown as a hardy plant 
in some parts of the country, but a light, warm or 
chalky soil is essential to its welfare. It blooms dur¬ 
ing April, much depending on the season. 

Crassula coccinea (Inquirer ).—You should at 
once strike some cuttings of your plants, and when 
these have rooted you may throw the old plants 
away, as they become leggy and lose much of their 
beauty. Cuttings strike readily, and when well 
rooted pot oil singly. When growth is on the move, 
nip out the points of the shoots^ to make the plants 
bushy, shifting on into larger p’ots when more root 
space is needed. Cuttings rooted now will, if well 
attended to, make nice-flowering plants in 5-inch pots 
next year. If, however, you prefer to keep the old 
plants, you can cut them back to induce them to 
make fresh growth, potting them when the new shoots 
have well started, and keeping in a frame till, say, 
August, when they can be stood outside against a 
sunny wall to ripen the growth, as, being very suc¬ 
culent, Crassulas need a thorough ripening in the 
autumn to induce them to flower freely. 

Libonia florlbunda after blooming (Spes).— 
When the flowering period is over the plants should 
be shortened back, perhaps, to half their height (not 
cut down), and kept somewhat closer with occasional 
syringing. This will cause them to push out young 
siioots from all parts, and as soon as these shoots are 
about a third of an inch long the plants must be re¬ 
potted, using for the purpose a mixture of loam and 
leaf-mould, with a little sand. As a rule, the plants 
may be put into the same sized pots as before, the 
old ball of earth being reduced sufficiently for this 
to be done. They must then for a time be treated 
as before; but as the roots take hold of the new soil 
more air mav be given. During the summer they do 
best in a frame sheltered from the direct rays of the 
sun, or they may be stood out-of-doors in a partially- 
shaded spot. In either case, a little liquid-manure as 
the pots get full of roots is of great service. We 
should advise you to get up a stock of the Boronia 
from cuttings. 

TREES AND SHRUBS. 

Thrips on Azaleas (J. M. It .).—The leaves you 
send have been badly attacked by thrips. Syringe 
the plants with paraffin emulsion. Quassia extract 
and soft-soap, or Tobacco water. Repotting should 
be done immediately after flowering, using only the 
best fibrous peat to which has been added some silver- 
sand. The new soil must be rammed down very 
firmly, so that it is made as firm as the old ball. 
After potting, the plants may be kept close, and 
syringed in the afternoon until they have become 
established and the roots are working freely in the 
new soil. About July stand them in the open air to 
ripen the growth, paying great attention to the water¬ 
ing. 

FRUIT. 

Cutting down Raspberry-canes (C.).—Newly- 
planted Raspberry-canes should be cut down to w ithin 
0 inches of the ground at once. This is needful to 
compel them to send up good suckers the first season, 
and when that is so then the plantation becomes well 
established. If the canes be left as planted to fruit 
the first year, then they prevent the formation of 
new suckers, with the result that the plants die 
altogether. 

Anoletree cankered (Novice ).—The Apple-tree 
from which you send a piece is suffering from canker 
caused by the roots getting down into some wet and 
sour soil,’in which they cannot get proper food. Next 
October you should open a trench round each tree 
that is cankered, sever all the deep-going roots, then 
refill the trenches with some good, loamy soil, to 
which have been added wood-ashes, bone-dust, and 
kainit. Place over the roots some short manure after 
the trench has been filled in, and at the same time 
dress the tree with the caustic alkali solution that 
has been so often mentioned in these pages. It is 
too late now to do anything. See article re “ Grac¬ 
ing a Plum-tree,” in our issue or December 3rd, 1904. 
a copv of which can be had of the publisher, post free 
for ljd. When sending queries kindly read our rules 
to correspondents as to putting each one on a 
separate piece of paper. 

VEGETABLES. 

Growing Leeks (T.).-To obtain large Leeks, 
treat them as Celery-plants are trented-thnt is. sow 
a fewr seeds in a gentle hot-bed at once, prick off the 
seedlings as soon as large enough, anil plant out 
finally in trenches when the plants are strong, i he 


Leeks may be l foot apart in the trenches: earth in¬ 
to blanch as required. For ordinary use very good r*- 
suits are obtained by sowing Hie seed in April in th< 
open air, transplanting into (be trendies when the 
plants arc large enough. Copious supplies of weak, 
clear liquid-manure water are very beneficial in dry. 
hot weather. 

Cucumbers failing (Leicester).- It is impossible 
to suggest any reason for the failure, but the lt*av« 
look as if they had been scorched or the plants 
allowed to get dry at the roots. This, however, 
only conjecture on our part, us you give us no in¬ 
formation as to how and where the plants are grown 
—whether in a house or in a frame. 

MISCELLANEOUS. 

Grafting-wax, making (Notice).— The following 
is a good recipe for making grafting-waxMelt iD a 
basin 1 lb. of tallow, 2 ib. of bees’ wax, and 4 lb. «>f 
resin: stir well together, and keep in a cool pi act- 
in the dish it was melted in. You can buy grafting- 
wax (Mastic L'bomme le fort) in tins, ready l»rc- 
pared, from Od. upwards. 

The Lackey-moth (Bombyx neustria) (1C. J 
Brawn).— The curious band you find on the stem of 
your Rose-shoot is the eggs of the Lackey-moth 
(Bombyx neustria). From the eggs, small, black cater¬ 
pillars are hatched, and immediately spin a web over 
themselves. In these webs they live in companies, 
going out to feed on the leaves, returning for shelter 
in wet weather or at night. When alarmed they let 
themselves down to the ground by threads. The best 
way is to carefully examine your Roses, cutting otf 
the rings wherever found and burning them. 

SHORT REPLIES. 

Ajax. —1, Please send specimen carefully packe d. The 
insect had been so knocked about that it is quite impossi¬ 
ble to name it. 2, You ought to have kept your Carna¬ 
tions close alter potting, but even had you done so we 
doubt whether you would have succeeded with Malnoaison 
Carnations that have been in the open air all winter. 

Such Carnations must be grown in a greenhouse.- A. 

Field. —Rose Frau Karl Druschki is pure white ; in fact, it 
is one of the whitest Roses we have. Gloire de Dijon is 

yellow, shaded salmon.- D. J. W.— It is quite impossible 

to say what the failure is due to, but in all probability- 
dryness at the roots is the cause. Kindly read our rules 
as to sending name and address, which latter is very im¬ 
portant in advising as to the treatment of any plant.- 

The Red House.— Please read our rules as to sending name 
and address. —Wash.—It you have any plants in the 
verandah, then blinds are the best, as such can be drawn 
up in dull weather. You will find Summer Cloud answer 
the purpose. This you will find advertised in our columns. 

- Fruit Grower.— No, not badly affected, but in many 

of the buds on the shoots sent the mites are present You 
will find the mite in all the swollen buds, which we should 
at once pick off, and in this way you may ward off the 

attack.- Riada. —See reply to ** E. T.” re “ Moss in 

lawn " in our issue of January 27,1906, a copy of which can 
lie had from the publither, post free, for l$d. 


NAMES OF PLANTS AND FRUITS. 

Names of plants.- W. A. E .—Picea puneena.- 

Mrs. YooL— Flower too withered to clearly identify. May 

be Narcissus minor, if not, then N. nanus.- - Bam tabus. 

— Solanutn capsicastrum.-C. J .—1, Polypodium sp. ; 2. 

Scolopendrium vulgare.- W. II. J/.—I, A malformed 

Antirrhinum; 2. Aloe mamiorata ; 3, Oxalis sp., please send 

in bloom ; 4, The Parlour Palm (Aspidistra lurida).- 

Cecil.—We cannot say positively from a small twig, but 

think It is Pinus Strobus (the Weymouth Pine).- A.B..V. 

—Cryptomeria japonica. 

Name Of fruit.— H. Stewart .—Apple Norfolk 
Beaufin. _ 

Catalogues received. The Mieses Kipping. 
Hutton, Essex —List of Hardy Perennials and Alpines. 

-Barr and Sons, 12 and 13, King street, Covent Garden, 

W.O.— List of Hardy Perennials for 1007. 

Books received.— “The Principles of Horticulture.” 
By W. l T . Webb. Blackie and Son, Limited, 50, Old Bailey, 

London, E.C.-“The National Carnation and Picotee 

Society : Thirtieth Annual Report for 1908.”—Green¬ 
house and Conservatory Construction and Heating.” By 
Paul N. Husluck. Cassell and Oo., La Belle Sauvage, 
London, E C. 

A new form of imposition. —A correspondent, 
writing to me from a village near Swansea, 

“ I purchased at ray door to-day, from a man who 
stated he was a representative of yours, and produced 
your catalogue, some Carnations. 1 should be glad 
to know if he and his roots are genuine.” As I have 
no representatives, or, if I had, they would not 
carry baskets of Carnations for sale from door to 
door, 1 wrote for particulars, and received the fol¬ 
lowing: “A man called at a large house, when the 
owner was out, and produced my catalogue, saving 
he had travelled down to Swansea with a large order 
of Carnations for a Mr. P. (a gentleman who lias a 
fine house and grounds, with professional gardeners). 
There was a mistake somewhere, and those he had 
left over—seventeen plants—he did not like to carry 
back, etc., etc.” It was a lame tale, but the lady- 
a lover of Carnations-was tempted, and bought 
them My correspondent, a doctor, saw the same 
man with a comrade later In the day still getting rid 
of n surplus stock of Carnations. The public ought 
to be warned against such men.—J as. Douglas, 
Great Bookham. 

Preserving nettinif.-I have some home-made 
nett ins (flax) for protecting fruit-hushes and Straw¬ 
berries from birds. 1 Could any reader eivo me a 
reeipe for treating same to preserve from rotting? I 
am advised to steep in tar. and wring out. but think 
1 a Vleaner- process may be-x|'iitle_as-good.--a. U. 

UR BA N A - C HA M P AIG N 




GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


No.' 1,465.— Vol. XXIX. 


Founded by W. Robinson , Author qf “ The English Flower Garden. 


APRIL 6, 1907. 


Amaryllifi. treatment of 74 
Annuals, climbing .. 73 
Annuals, hardy 73 

Artificial manures, using 77 
Arum Lilies after bloom¬ 
ing .80 

Azaleas, Indian .. .. 75 

Bees.79 

Begonia tubers, dividing 71 
Begonias for the flower 

garden .80 

Birds anrl fruit growers 72 
Brussels Sprouts, aphides 

on.72 

Bulbs for pots 80 

('abbages, early spring .. 78 
Camellias, diseased .. 80 
Cauliflowers, caterpillars 
on.77 


Carrots failing .. 78 

Chorozemas after bloom¬ 
ing .80 

Chrysanthemums.. . 76 

Chrysanthemums - stop¬ 
ping and timing .. 76 

Conservatory .. 78 

Cucumbers.78 

Ferns.76 

Ferns and Palms in the 

house .78 

Ferns, potting .. 76 

Flowers, sweet -smelling 

garden.73 

Fruit.69 

Fruit garden ..78 

Fruit - trees, artificial 
manures for .. 80 

Fruit-trees, grafting of 69 


INC 

Fruit-trees in pots .. 69 

Funkias, variegated- 

leaved, for the green¬ 
house .74 

Garden diary, extracts 

from a .79 

Garden pests and friends 72 

Garden work .. .. 78 

Gentiana aselepiadea 

from seed, raising .. 73 

Genista fragnuiH, treat¬ 
ment of.80 

Gillcniu trifoliatu under 

glass .74 

Greenhouse, managing a 74 

Heliotrope for winter 

flowering.80 

Hyacinths after bloom¬ 
ing .80 


EX. 

Herbs, growing .. 80 

Indoor plants .. .. 74 

Jasmiuum primulinum.. 74 

Judas-tree (Cercis Hili- 
quaetrum), the .. .. 80 

Law and custom .. 79 

Manure, fowls’ .80 

Moon - flower (Iponwea 
bona-nox), the .. 80 

Nephrolepis exaltata 
elegantiesima .. 77 

Netting, preserving .. 80 

Orchard-house .. 78 

Outdoor garden .. 78 

Outdoor plants .. 73 

Parsnips, fungus on . . 72 

Peach-trees, ante on .. 80 

Pelargoniums, Ivy¬ 
leaved .75 


Pergolas.—VI.73 

Phlebodiums .. .. 76 

Plants and flowers ... 73 

Prunus family, the .. 70 

Room and window .. 71 

Rose leaves damaged .. 80 

Roses .76 

Roses, climbing, for mild 

climates.76 

Roses, own-root, for pots 76 
Salsafy, growing .. . 80 

Sanseviera zeyluiiieu .. 74 
Heabious (Scahioaft) ... 71 
Shallots, growing.. 80 

Silver Treo (Leucoden- 
dron argenteuni), the 

Capo .74 

Soil, adding nitrogen to 
the.. 78 


Spinach Beet .. 78 

Htephanotis tloribunda in 
a greenhouse ... .. 80 

Stove.. .. .. ..78 

Strawberries, late forced 78 
Streptogolen. (Browalliu) 

Jamesoni.74 

SweetrPeiiB of fine qual¬ 
ity, how to grow .. 73 
Tomatoes damping .. 80 
Tomatoes in greenhouse 80 
Trees and shrubs .. .. 70 

TUlips failing .. 73 

Vegotable garden .. 79 

Vegetables.77 

Vegetables, two good 

winter.77 

I Week s work, the coming 79 
I Window-box season, the 71 


FRUIT. 

GRAFTING OF FRUIT-TREES. 
Owing in a measure to the fact of fruit trees 
being obtainable at a cheap rate, and partly 
from the difficulty now experienced in obtain¬ 
ing the services of men qualified’to perform 
the work, grafting is not practised in private 
garden® to anything like the extent which at 
one time prevailed. It was quite the usual 
thing at one time to find a man capable of 
carrying out whatever grafting was required 
to be doue in most gardens, and such are, no 
doubt, still to be met with, but they are the 
exception, and the younger hands either do 
not remain long enough in one place to ac¬ 
quire the knowledge or lack the inclination to 
do so. At any rate, it is, I find, now very 
difficult to obtain garden labourers ac¬ 
quainted with the art of grafting, whatever 
the reason may be, but the fact remains that 
grafting is a simple and expeditious method 
of converting existing healthy but unsatis¬ 
factory trees, by reason of their yielding fruit 
of inferior quality, into more profitable ex¬ 
amples. This observation applies equally to 
all kinds of garden-trees and orchard stan¬ 
dards alike, because if the grafting is pro¬ 
perly performed new heads can be formed, or 
a new series of branches obtained, as the 
case may be, in far less time than would be 
possible if they were destroyed, and new 
trees planted in their stead. Again, when 
much planting has been done, it is not un¬ 
usual to find that perhaps one or more varie¬ 
ties after they come into bearing, and have 
been given a fair trial, do not succeed so well 
as could be desired. To destroy such trees 
would be the height of folly, and it is far 
better to head them back and graft them 
with a more suitable variety or varieties than 
to grub them, always provided they are, of 
course, in a healthy condition. Grafting, as 
is well known, is employed principally for 
propagating or increasing any particular 
kinds of the Apple and the Pear, and occa¬ 
sionally the Plum and Cherry, but, as a rule, 
the two last named, like the Peach and 
Apricot, are budded. 

The best time for grafting fruit-trees is to¬ 
wards the latter end of March, or beginning 
of April, when the sap is on the move, this 
varying according to the nature of the 
season, whether a late one or the reverse. 
The preliminary operation of heading back 
the trees which are to be grafted is generally 
done in January or early in February, and 
the branches are severed to within a few 
inches of where the scions are to be affixed. 
The remaining portions are cut away where 
the actual grafting takes place, the wounds 
being carefully pared smooth with a sharp 
knife afterwards. Three who are thinking 
of grafting any trees this spring, and have not 
already beaded them back, should do so with¬ 
out delay, and the same with regard to 
securing the requisite number ' 
is (be rule to selectf the scions 


pruning the trees, and after labelling and 
tying them in bundles, to partly bury them in 
soil under a north wall or fence, where they 
remain dormant until required for use. 
Other requisites are either grafting-wax or 
clay for enclosing and excluding air from the 
scions. The grafting-wax can be bought 
ready for use, and is on the whole moro ser¬ 
viceable and satisfactory than clay. The 
clay, however w'ell it may be prepared by 
kneading and adding a certain amount of 
chopped hay and cow-dung, is always liable 
to crack in dry weather, and give a good deal 
of trouble. C)nce grafting-wax is applied air 
is practically excluded, and there is no dan¬ 
ger of cracking occurring until such time as 
the union of stock and scion is accomplished. 

AVith the exception of orchard standards, 
whip grafting is the method generally prac¬ 
tised in private gardens, and care must be 
exercised in seeing that the bark of both 
stock and scion corresponds on the one side 
where they are inserted, if not on both, 
otherwise they will not become united. Care, 
too, should be taken to see that the scions are 
attached to the stocks in such positions that 
the resulting growths can be trained out 
afterwards the more conveniently to where re¬ 
quired, particularly so in regard to wall trees. 
Large-sized standard trees, if headed back, 
leaving from four to six of the larger limbs, 
are best crown-grafted, but if not cut back so 
closely as this, and a larger number of 
branches are retained, say from eighteen to 
twenty, then they may be whip grafted. By 
thus leaving a good number of branches for 
inserting scions upon, due regard being, of 
course, paid to their position, so that the new 
growths will not eventually cross each other 
when they take the form of branches, the 
moro quickly will a new head be formed for 
the production of fruit. A. W. 

FRUIT-TREES IN POTS. 

It is a matter for surprise that amateurs and 
others who have but limited means at com¬ 
mand for growing choice hardy fruits out¬ 
doors do not grow them under glass more 
often than they do. Given a good roomy, 
well-ventilated, span-roofed house, a con¬ 
siderable number of trees in pots can be 
accommodated, and, under good management, 
will yield excellent crops of fruit annually. 
If Cherries, Plums, and Pears are to be 
grown in addition to Peaches, Nectarines, 
and Figs, then the house would be best divi¬ 
ded into two equal portions. This would 
allow of each group being grown by itself, be¬ 
cause the first throe species of fruit are im¬ 
patient of much warmth during the early 
stages of growth, but which is more necessary 
for the well-being of the three last-named. All 
the same, it is best to provide hot-water pip¬ 
ing in both divisions, so that frost can be 
excluded while the trees are in flower, and, 
independent of this, such a structure would 
prove of the greatest service during the 
autumn and winter months for Chrysanthe¬ 
mums, Salvias, etc. During this period the 


trees would be outdoors, the pots being 
plunged to the rims in old hot-bed material 
or long litter, as a protection against hard 
frost, and to prevent the soil becoming unduly 
dry. 

A good water supply must always be 
provided, for which purpose a galvanised iron 
tank should be fixed in the centre of the 
house, so that one half projects on either 
side of the glass partition. This should be 
fed with a tap, and the rain-water from the 
gutters conducted into it also. If the tank 
is filled up after watering is completed, it 
will always be in right condition for use the 
succeeding day. As regards the floor arrange¬ 
ments, latticed gangways are best for walk¬ 
ing upon, and then the floor may be entirely 
of earth, coated with a 3-inch layer of coal- 
ashes, as this will both absorb and give off 
moisture, while it is an excellent medium 
upon which to stand the pots. The requisite 
number of trees can be purchased already 
established in pots. After this the stock can 
be replenished or added to by buying in a 
few trees now and again, and advantage 
should be taken of the introduction of new 
varieties to give them a trial. The time for 
starting will depend on when the fruit is re¬ 
quired for table, but, in the absence of any 
specified time, the end of January or middle 
of the next month would suffice. Some 
growers defer starting until March, or not 
far in advance of the time the trees com¬ 
mence blossoming outdoors, but let the time 
bo when it will, the first preliminary is to 
take the trees indoors, and, after cleaning 
the pots, removing plunging material, mossy 
growths, and weeds from the surface of the 
soil, and performing whatever amount of 
pruning may be requisite, arrange the trees 
on the floor, keeping each group or species 
separate, leaving space enough between each 
tree so that the attendant can easily pass 
round and between them when watering, etc. 
Vaporise the house, or houses, two evenings 
in succession as a precautionary measure, be¬ 
cause once the trees are in bloom and aphides 
appear, nothing can be done until the fruit is 
set. The blossoms must be fertilised with a 
camel-hair brush about midday, and always 
admit air abundantly on every favourable 
occasion, as this tends to ripen the pollen 
and render it more potent. A drier atmos¬ 
phere should be maintained now—that is to 
say, damping had better be dispensed with 
until the fruit has set. After this stage 
is passed, damping dowm should be made a 
daily practice, and for Peaches and Nec¬ 
tarines the house may be kept warmer, which 
condition will also suit the Figs. The trees 
in all cases should be well syringed and 
vaporised at once should greenfly put in an 
appearance, following this up next morning 
with a good forcible syringing. 

Up to the time of the fruit setting, the 
quantity of water required at the roots will 
not be great, but, once growth becomes ac¬ 
tive, more will be needed, and as the season 
advances it will be required three times daily. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


OI Of 1 

tjfi 


ions, it 
time of 


V" 


























GARDEJYING ILLUSTRATED. Amil 6. 1907 


70 


When the stone fruits have perfected their 
seeds, liquid-manure and guano-water may 
be given daily, and the trees should also be 
top-dressed with good rich compost, placing 
a strip of zinc within the rims of the pots to 
hold it in place and to enable water to be 
given in sufficient quantity each time it is 
required. Peaches and Nectarines must be 
disbudded, retaining just enough shoots to 
furnish the trees with bearing wood for an¬ 
other season, and no more. Cherries, Pears, 
and Plums will need to have superfluous and 
spur growths pinched to three or four leaves, 
leaving the leading shoots intact, large trees 
excepted, when they should be pinched back 
to five or six leaves. Figs may be stopped at 
the fourth or fifth leaf when the fruits are 
about the size of Walnuts. 

Thinning of the fruit must be done in 
good time, if Peaches and Nectarines 
set heavily, but, of course, a good margin 
must be left to provide for losses, in 
the shape of fruit dropping ere the stoning 
period is reached. Once the latter stage I 
is safely passed, the final thinning should | 
be no longer deferred. In the case of 
the other fruits named, thinning, if neces- 


there is room to introduce a little fresh com¬ 
post from the crocks upwards. This will | 
necessitate cutting away a good many fibrous 
roots, but healthy trees will quickly emit 
new rootlets, and benefit by the addition of 
the fresh compost, and be none the worse for 
such severe handling. The basis of the com¬ 
post should be good fibrous loam, to which 
a little bone-meal, lime-rubble pounded fine, 
and some well-rotted manure should be 
added. Thoroughly cleanse the pots if the 
same are to be used again, and always em- i 
ploy fresh crocks. Finally, place the trees | 
under cover for two or three weeks after ! 
repotting, when they may be moved outdoors 
again. A. W. 

TREES AND SHRUBS. 

THE PRUNUS FAMILY. 

This is a very beautiful race of flowering 
trees. As at present constituted, it includes 
all those species which were formerly classed 
under the titles of Amygdalus, Cerasus, 
Pad us, Persica, etc. The genus is widely 
spread, representatives occurring in Europe, 


branches drooping almost to the Grass, and 
forming a very cataract of flower. P. c. 
atro-purpurea is better known as Prunus 
Pissardi. It is very charming in March, 
when its white flowers are associated with 
the young foliage, then of an amber-brown 
tint, while later this becomes as dark as 
that of a Copper Beech. A tree 20 feet in 
height in flower is a fine sight. 

P. divaeicata is rarely met with in gar¬ 
dens, yet it is one of the most beautiful of its 
race. Its growth is slender and twiggy, and 
its habit is spreading. Before the close of 
March it is white with flower. 

P. JAPONICA, one of the prettiest of the 
smaller species, grows to a height of between 
3 feet and 4 feet. When in full flower it is a 
lovely picture, every long, slender branch 
being weighed down with a wealth of pure 
white blossoms. There is a variety with 
rose-coloured flowers. 

P. pseudo-Cerasus (here figured) is one of 
the finest of the Cherries. Its varieties, 
Watereri and J. H. Veitch, the former with 
flesh-pink flowers and the lntter with deep 
rose blossoms, should be in every garden. 
Both are very free flowerers, and will succeed 



The double-flowering Cherry (Cerasua paeudo-Ceroaus). From a photograph by Mr. W. J. Vaaey, Abingdon, Berks. 


sary, should be postponed till the fruits have 
attained a considerable size. Figs, which 
should be allowed to bear but one crop, and 
that a good one, will not want any thinning. 
When Cherries commence ripening, cease 
syringing them overhead, or the fruits will be 
liable to crack. Also use perfectly clean or 
soft water for syringing Plums with, other¬ 
wise the fruits will be spotted and the bloom 
spoilt when ripe. In all cases cease giving 
stimulants when the fruits are about half- 
ripe, and apply clear water only. 

As the trees are cleared of fruit, move them 
outdoors, and give them a thorough cleaning, 
and when all are outside plunge the pots, 
or surround them, with some such material 
as that which has already been alluded to. 
When the leaves have fallen, Figs which 
are too tender to safely withstand the . 
rigours of winter may be housed in a shed I 
in default of a more suitable place, and take 
the precaution to net Plums over during late 
autumn and winter months, otherwise they 1 
will be found minus the majority of their 
fruit-buds when the time arrives for housing 
them. Once the trees are thoroughly estab- J 
lished, they should be repotted each year 
about the end of September or early in Octo¬ 
ber, reducing the balls to such an extent that 

Go gle 


through Asia to Persia and Afghanistan, and 
eastward to China and Japan, while it is 
also met with in North America. The follow¬ 
ing are some of the most ornamental 

species : — 

Prunus Davidiana. —This is the earliest 
of the family to bloom, generally coming into 
flower in January. There are two forms— 
alba (white) and rubra (rose-coloured). The 
former is the freer bloomer, and is very lovely 
when its snowy blossoms are thrown into high 
relief by an evergreen background. 

P. NANA is a delightful little shrub about : 
3 feet in height. A bed of this is an exceed- ' 
ingly pretty sight in the spring, when every 
branchlet is thickly covered with shell-pink 
blossoms. 

P. TRILOBA.— The type of this Plum is not 
very highly esteemed, but its double variety, j 
flore-pleno, is one of the handsomest of 
flowering shrubs. Its large, double, rose- 1 
coloured flowers are produced in such profu¬ 
sion that scarcely a leaf is visible. It is 
sometimes trained against a wall, but is far 
more beautiful when allowed to assume its 
natural, tree like form. 

P. cerasifera PENDULA. —The weeping 
variety of the Myrobalan Plum is a lovely 
little tree when in full bloom, its pendent 


in any position that, is not too shady. Some 
trees of the variety Watereri in Cornwall are 
, 25 feet in height, and are a glorious sight 
I when in full bloom. 

P. pendula is a beautiful tree of distinct 
weeping habit. The flowers, whicli are borne 
in prodigal abundance, open in March, and 
are of a delicate rose colour. 

P. serrulata. —This Chinese Cherry is a 
delightful flowering tree, less often seen than 
it should be. Its growth is spreading, and 
its semi-double white flowers are each almost 
2 inches across. A fine old specimen grow¬ 
ing in the hedge of a Somersetshire rectory 
garden stretches its bloom-laden branches far 
over the road, and is the admiration of all 
passers-by when in flower. 

P. Mahaleb. —This Cherry is well-known 
for its free, graceful habit and profusion of 
bloom. In the variety pendula tne drooping 
character of the branches adds greatly to the 
beauty of the tree when these are clothed 
with white blossoms. The flowers are borne 
on short racemes, and in such abundance as 
to envelop the tree in a snowy mantle. It 
is as well adapted for planting in groups as 
for growing as an isolated specimen. 

S. W. Fitzherbert. 

- All the forms of the double-flowering 












ArniL 6, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


71 



Cherry are valuable in the garden, and dur¬ 
ing the season when they are in bloom, which 
is the end of March and during April, there 
are no trees to equal them. The nearest 
rival among Cherries is the double-flowered 
Gean (P. Avium fl.pl.), and this blooms a 
fortnight or so later. In the forests of Yezo 
the tree occasionally reaches a height of 
80 feet, but in this country it is rarely more 
than one-fourth of that height. In England 
it is a ]>erfectly hardy tree, and the flowers 
are rarely injured by bad weather. There is, 
in fact, no tree that is better worth planting 
in quantity, and our illustration to-day well 
shows its beauty. To see it at its best a 
group of about a dozen trees should be plan¬ 
ted against a background of Holly or Ever¬ 
green Oak. In the variety P. pseudo-Cerasus 
Watereri the flowers arc of a delicate rose, 
and of exceptional size—frequently over 
2 inches across. In Japan there are said to 
be over twenty of these double-flowered varie¬ 
ties. Another very fine form is J. H. Veitcli, 
in which the flowers are of a charming shade 
of pink. 

By the Japanese these double Cherries are 
cultivated for flowers more than any other 
tree, and Professor Sargent tells us in his 
“Forest Flora of Japan ” that — 

For centuries they have planted these Cherry-trees 
m all gardens and temple grounds, and often by the 
borders of highways, as at Mukojima, near Tokio, 
where there is an avenue of them more than a mile 
in length, and at Eoganei, where a century and a half 
aco 10.000 Cherries were planted in an avenue several 
miles long. The flowering of the Cherry is an excuse 
for a holiday, and thousands of men, women, and 
children pass the day under these long avenues in 
contemplation of the streets of bloom. 

ROOM AND WINDOW. 

THE WINDOW-BOX SEASON. 
Perhaps one of the strongest evidences that 
gardening is every year finding fresh ad¬ 
herents lies in the interest taken in window- 
box gardening. In the crowded street and 
busy road you find from a window-box a bit 
of colour and cheer in a place where one 
would not think of looking for such. Wo are 
almost on the eve of the season when win¬ 
dow-boxes will need replenishing, and I 
therefore offer a few suggestions to those 
who are anticipating making their window¬ 
sills gay in the next few months. First, let 
the box be overhauled if it is an old one, 
and be satisfied that it will go through the 
season. If not, have it replaced by a new 
one. A good deal box, well painted inside 
and out, and the front covered with cork, 
■will have quite a rustic appearance, and if it 
is desired to take away the new look from 
the cork-bark, give it a coat of glue-size, 
which will darken it a little, after which it 
can be varnished, and then it will stand a 
deal of adverse weather. 

If vou must have some scarlet Pelargonium 
and Lobelia, they are certainly better than a 
vacant sill, but there are many other Pelar¬ 
goniums, notably among the fvy-leaved sec¬ 
tion, that are really much better, and have 
the advantage of trailing over the front of 
the box with a rich profusion of blossoms. 
Then there are such things as Petunias and 
Verbenas, both of which are capital bloomers 
in a sunny window. It is well to observe 
that, to get the best from them, they should 
be stopped in their early stages, so that the 
lateral growths will afford much blossom, 
and, what is quite as important, so that the 
base of the plants may be clothed with 
foliage. There is much to be said for the 
system of growing plants in pots for window- 
boxes, as, when this is done, one may have 
changes occasionally, and if an accident 
should occur, there are other subjects to 
drop into their places. It is not often we 
find Antirrhinums growing in window-boxes, 
and yet they are very beautiful, and so long 
as care is taken to keep decayed blooms 
picked off, one may have quite a long period 
of flowers; indeed, they bloom more or less 
from June to September if seed is sown 
early enough. Such well-known annuals as 
Nemophila, dwarf Nasturtiums, Marigolds, 
Stocks, and Asters will be thought of, and 
Tufted Pansies should not be forgotten, if 
fhowy and bright flowers are wanted over a 
long period. Of course, there are the 
Fuchsias, Heliotropes, and Mignonette. As a 
rule however, the fewer the subjects in a 

Digitized by GOOgle 


box the better, and often the most effective 
displays are brought about by using the 
simplest subjects. 

It follows, of course, whero plants are 
used, that young ones should be chosen in 
preference to old, and it should not be over¬ 
looked that the soil ought to be the best ob¬ 
tainable, and that to have an abundance of 
bloom, a judicious use of stftnulants will 
improve matters. A little trouble at the 
commencement in preparing the box, getting 
the best soil, and in placing the box where it 
will get a fair amount of sun, will do much 
towards ensuring success. Leahurst. 


SCABIOUS (SCABIOSA). 

A small genus of the Teasel family, consist¬ 
ing of perennial, biennial, and annual plants, 
some of which are very valuable garden 
flowers. Of the perennials, which number 


there is a pure-white kind ; another variety, 
has deep purple flowers, margined with 
white; and still another (striata), with 
streaked and spotted flowers. Being bien¬ 
nial, S. atropurpurea requires to be raised 
annually from seeds, whicn should be sown in 
the reserve border in March or April in good 
soil and when large enough the seedlings 
should be well thinned out. In autumn they 
may be transplanted to their permanent 
places in the borders where they are intended 
to flower. Thus treated, they will become 
strong before winter sets in, and will flower 
early the following summer, and produce an 
abundance of seeds. By sowing under glass 
earlier in the season, the plunts will flower 
the same year, for, though considered a bien¬ 
nial by many growers, we have always looked 
upon it as a hardy annual. Tho dwarf 
Scabious is now much used for pot culture 
in winter, for which purpose the seed is sown 


Flowers of Scabiosa cauoasica alba. From a 


about a dozen in cultivation, by far tho finest 
is S. caucasica, which grows from 1^ feet to 
3 feet high, and bears in summer large heads 
of pale lilac-blue flowers on long, slender 
stalks. It is a large, spreading plant, and 
requires plenty of room to develop itself. It 
grows freely in any ordinary soil in open 
situations, and is an excellent plant for natu¬ 
ralising. There is also a white variety, 
flowers of which we figure to-day. Among the 
biennial species the finest is S. atropurpurea, 
a very handsome plant, which for two or 
three centuries has been grown in English 
gardens. It is a plant that will not fail to 
give satisfaction, both as regards showiness 
and length of bloom, which continues from 
June to October. The typical plant grows 
about 3 feet high, but there is now a dwarf 
variety that scarcely exceeds 1 foot, and this 
to some would bo the more desirable, as it is 
neater and more compact. The normal 
colour is a deep rich maroon crimsou, but 


photograph by Mr. 0. Jones, Bourne, Lincoln. 


| in summer, and tho plants grown on strongly 
for winter flowering. It is one of the most 
useful of all plants for furnishing cut blooinB 
at that season. 


Dividing Begonia tubers {Novice ).—You can 
divide your Begonia tubers when they start into 
growth. Place the tubers in a shallow box of light 
] compost, such as leaf-mould and sand, or Cocoa-nut- 
llbre and loam, and cover them about three-quarters 
of their depth with the same compost. This compost 
I should be in a moist condition, and if it shows signs 
of becoming dry it should be gently watered with 
tepid water through a fine rose. A sunny position in 
i a temperature of from 55 degs. to GO degs. is the best 
1 for starting the tubers. The eyes will soon push out 
from the tubers, when these may be lifted aud care¬ 
fully divided with a sharp knife, leaving one or more 
| eyes to each portion of the tuber. Sprinkle the cut 
portions with silver-sand, and pot the divisions in a 
' light sandy compost, growing them on in heat. l>ivi- 
I sion of the tubers is very seldom resorted to nowa¬ 
days, as from a packet of seed one can raise hundreds 
i of plants with flowers of excellent quality, the risk of 
I loss being also much less. The divided tubers, unless 
carefully managed, are very liable to rot. 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




72 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


April 6, 1907 


GARDEN PESTS AND FRIENDS. 

BIRDS AND FRUIT GROWERS. 

It would be well if a consensus of opinion 
could be obtained from fruit growers as to 
the birds which need a great reduction in 
number. Probably they would be nearly 
unanimous in desiring to withdraw protec¬ 
tion from the sparrow, the bullfinch, and the 
blackbird, as their most inveterate enemies; 
while a great majority would add other birds 
to the list of varieties needing thinning. The 
song thrush, though at least as destructive 
as the blackbird to soft fruit, is much less 
so to Apples, and is, moreover, a great eater 
of snails and a destroyer of insects and 
grubs of various kinds throughout the greater 
part of the year. The missel thrush, accord¬ 
ing to Mr. Cecil H. Hooper, in a paper on 
“ Fruit Growing and Bird Protection,” read 
before the Society of Arts, is considered by 
Kentish growers one of the worst birds for 
fruit. Both kinds of thrush, and particu¬ 
larly the song thrush, are far too numerous. 
Probably no fruit grower would have a word 
to say in favour of the sparrow or the bull¬ 
finch, while not many apologists could be 
found for the blackbird. In my opinion the 
greater part of the disbudding of Goose¬ 
berries, Currants, Plums, and Cherries, is 
done by sparrows, because the devastation is 
often so speedy and extensive that other bud- 
eating birds are not numerous enough to ac¬ 
count for the whole of it. The sparrow and 
the chaffinch are further charged with 
squeezing the blossom of Cherries, Plums, 
Gooseberries, and Currants to extract honey 
from them. The chaffinch, however, accord¬ 
ing to Mr. Hooper, is also a destroyer of 
caterpillars and the woolly aphis, and, 
therefore, it is not to be placed in the worst 
class of birds with the sparrow and the bull¬ 
finch, though it can hardly be said to de¬ 
serve protection. Last season a email plan¬ 
tation of Gooseberries close to my home¬ 
stead, where sparrows abound, was almost 
entirely ruined, the crop being only about 
one-tenth of what it should have been, in 
consequence of disbudding. This loss of a 
year’s crop, moreover, was not bv any 
means all the damage, for many of the bushes 
had to be cut back to mere stumps, because 
the branches had been almost entirely de¬ 
nuded of buds, rendering them permanently 
barren. In a plantation of eight acres, too. 
the crop of Gooseberries w'as more than half 
destroyed on fully an acre on the outsides, 
convenient for birds harboured in the hedges, 
w'hile much damage was also done to the in¬ 
terior of the field. The bushes had been 
sprayed with a protecting mixture, which 
was effective until persistent rain had 
washed it off. Then, in two or three days, 
during which inspection of the plantation 
had been neglected, the damage was done. 
A second spraying was then carried out, 
which checked, if it did not absolutely pre¬ 
vent, further devastation. In the same 
season Plum-trees on the hedge sides of a 
plantation had both fruit and leaf buds 
picked off to a serious extent, nearly all the 
noting shoots being stripped, so that they 
had to be cut off at their bases. Further, 
sixteen fine trees of such choice varieties as 
Old Green Gage, Coe’s Golden Drop, Den- 
niston’s Superb Gage, Oullin’s Golden Gage, 
Reine Claude Violette, and Early Trans¬ 
parent Gage, covered with fruit spurs, had 
their fruit buds so generally picked off by 
birds that the whole of them did not show 
fifty blossoms. Such examples of injury, 
which nearly every grower of fruit on a con¬ 
siderable scale could match, may fairly be 
regarded as sufficient indictments to justify 
the unrestricted destruction of sparrows and 
bullfinches, and the thinning of chaffinches 
and green linnets. Fruit-devouring birds 
are bad enough ; but bud-eaters are far more 
w’holesale destroyers of fruit crops. 

Some lovers of birds may raise the objec¬ 
tion that bud-eating may be prevented by 
spraying. Possibly this may be the case 
where a grower is prepared to spray any 
number of times in a season that may be 
necessary. In a rainy winter, however, the 
spray-stuff may be washed off several times ; 
and it may happen that severe frost, snow, or 

Digitized by Google 


persistently wet weather will prevent spray¬ 
ing immediately after the trees and bushes 
have been denuded of their protective coat¬ 
ing. Last winter a mixture which sprays 
easily was used, and it stuck to the bushes 
well, until rain, coming on three days out of 
four for about five weeks, had washed it off, 
and extensive disbudding took place, after 
which a eeccyid operation prevented further 
noticeable damage. The ingredients of this 
wash are 60 lb. of quicklime, 30 lb. of 
flowers of sulphur, 1 lb. of caustic soda, and 
10 lb. of soft soap to 100 gallons of water. 
The method of mixing, which it is important 
to follow, is : Mix the sulphur into a paste, 
beating it up well while somewhat stiff, and 
gradually thinning it, and pour it over the 
lime. Stir the ingredients thoroughly until 
the lime is slaked, adding only as much 
water as is necessary to allow of stirring. 
Then add the caustic soda, and stir it in 
until the renewed boiling action which it 
6 ets up is finished. Dissolve the soft soap 
separately by boiling it in two or three 
gallons of water, and stir it well in with 
the other ingredients of the wash, afterwards 
adding enough water to make lip 100 gallons, 
and passing the mixture through a strainer 
of fine brass wire gauze. It. is important to 
obtain lime of the best quality, and freshly 
burnt. It is further to be observed that in 
spraying trees and bushes to prevent bud¬ 
eating the usual caution against applying the 
wash otherwise than in a very fine spray, 
applicable to the operation when trees are in 
leaf, does* not apply. On the contrary, 
sprayings should be done so freely that the 
trees or bushes will be ns well coated as if 
they had been whitewashed with a brush. 
As the buds are smooth, they are less easily 
coated than the branches, and a slight spray¬ 
ing does not cover them sufficiently. The 
chief object of including soft soap in the 
mixture is that of making the stuff stick on 
the trees and bushes. A trial with a little 
linseed oil proved that it was less effective 
for the purpose named than soft soap. The 
period of the year when it is necessary to 
spray to prevent bud-eating varies with the 
kind of fruit, with the season, and with the 
situation of the plantation. Gooseberries 
are usually attacked sooner than Plums, and, 
in my own experience, the former are dis¬ 
budded near the homestead sooner than 
those which are further from the principal 
haunts of the house sparrow. In a mild 
winter little or no damage is done before the 
buds begin to swell; but in severe weather 
birds, from lack of other food, may begin the 
attack prematurely. Except near the home¬ 
stead, I have not noticed an attack before 
the new year has begun ; but in that excep¬ 
tional situation it has been commenced in or | 
before the last week in December. This 
season, for example, disbudded Gooseberry 
bushes were noticed near the homestead on 
December 19th, and spraying, therefore, was 
done on the 20th. In a distant field, how¬ 
ever, the Gooseberries were not touched by ! 
birds before January 17th; nor could any 
case of the disbudding of Plums be found 
up to the end of the month. Some families 
of bullfinches were on the farm before the ' 
middle of December, nnd they were much j 
more numerous at a distance from the home¬ 
stead than near it, for which reason the early 
attack in the latter situation is attributed 
mainly, if not entirely, to the sparrows. Mr. 
Hooper states that the worst time of bud-eat¬ 
ing is the beginning of March, and with re¬ 
spect to Plums it has been found so in my 
experience. It is important, however, to 
inspect plantations daily, or nearly every 
day, after the middle of December, in order 
to be able to spray at once on noticing the 
starting of an attack. Both Mr. Hooper and 
also Mr. Smith, in a paper read before the 
Maidstone Farmers’ Club, mention Apples 
as subject to disbudding by birds, and the 
latter includes Black Currants; but in my 
own plantations no evidence of either attack 
has been noticed. That Cherries and Pears 
are attacked there is no doubt, although my 
few Cherry and Pear-trees, if disbudded at 
all, have never been sufficiently damaged to 
prevent profuse blossoming. Some standard 
Peaches and Nectarines, grown in the open 


by way of experiment, however, were dis¬ 
budded badly last winter for the first time. 

Turning to fruit-eating birds, there is no 
need for hesitation in declaring the black¬ 
bird to be the worst offender. This bird is 
omnivorous in respect of fruit, while it is 
very numerous, and also one of the slyest of 
birds. If scared off a field, it 6imply retires 
to a sheltering hedge until the scarer has 
passed by, and is soon out again at' its work 
of depredation. The starling is as bad for 
Cherries, and the thrush for all soft fruits ; 
but both are more easy to shoot than the 
blackbird is, and can present more mitiga¬ 
ting merits as destroyers of •noxious insects 
and grubs. Neither troubles me in Apples 
plantations, and the starling is not conspicu¬ 
ous, if present at all, among the numerous 
varieties of birds that attack my Black Cur¬ 
rants. But both thrushes and starlings have 
become far too numerous in most parts of 
England, or, at any rate, in the southern 
half of the country, and need to be thinned, 
distressful though it is to kill either, and par¬ 
ticularly the starling, a very valuable bird 
when fruit is not ripe. In consequence of 
the great numbers of blackbirds and thrushes, 
it is a common experience to be compelled to 
net every Currant and Gooseberry bush in 
a garden, if any ripe fruit is to be obtained, 
and in many cases Strawberry beds and 
Raspberry cane« have also to be protected. 
As for Cherries, the numerous birds that 
prey upon them must bo kept off the trees as 
far as possible early and late every day after 
ripening has begun, if any fruit is to be 
secured. As this is out of the question where 
only a few trees are grown for private use, 
birds eat more than half the Cherries in 
many cases. Mr. F. Smith, in the paper 
already referred to, said that he had trapped 
over a thousand blackbirds and thrushes per 
annum for years past, and that he would 
need to kill double the number to keep these 
birds at all within bounds in 1906-7, in his 
200 acres of plantations. His men also shot 
285 bullfinches in the winter of 1905-6. 

The tits do some damage by pecking holes 
in Apples and Pears ; but experience last 
season showed the advantage of growing 
clumps of Sunflowers, as recommended by 
Mr. F. Smith, in various parts of fruit plan¬ 
tations. These birds, and probably many 
others, are so fond of Sunflower 6eed that 
they partially neglect fruit in its favour. 
They are valuable in orchards and gardens n6 
devourers of various injurious insects, larvae, 
and eggs. Wood pigeons, doves, and missel 
thrushes come in flocks to prey upon Black 
Currants, and the two former are charged 
with thefts of Gooseberries on a wholesale 
scale. Rooks, of course, in the neighbour¬ 
hood of rookeries, are troublesome to fruit¬ 
growers, but can be kept off the plantations 
by scaring more easily than smaller birds, 
which retire to hedges when frightened.— 
Willtam E. Bear, in the Journal of the 
Board, of Agriculture. 

NOTES AND HE PLIES. 

Aphides on Brussels Sprouts —Aphides get on 
to Brussels Sprouts and even right into the little 
sprout. 1 have found them there, even after hard 
frosts have occurred.—B eechcroft. 

[There seems no remedy other than to wash 
them off the plants with clear water applied 
through a garden engine. It is in our experi¬ 
ence a rare trouble, and deep cultivation and 
liberal manuring, as a rule, giv© clean 
sprouts. When crops have a deep root-run, 
and do not suffer from drought, they are 
seldom affected by insect pests.] 

Parsnips, fungus on.— A sort of rusty'-looking 
rot attacks these, generally beginning at the shoulder 
of the plant. The rest is sound and eatable. The 
plants are otherwise healthy and well grown. I have 
| had it every year, but 1 think this year it has been 
worse. No stable or cow-manure has been used.— 
A. 11 H. 

[The rust you find on the shoulders of your 
Parsnips is of fungoid origin, and is often 
seen in richly manured soils. The beet course 
would be to dig in before seed is sown a 
dressing of fresh slacked lime one bushel per 
two rods of ground, then, in the autumn, when 
the roots are swelling, give a heavy dusting 
of fresh slacked lime to the bed, and well 
hoe it in. That should check the spread of 
the fungus. Sow Parsnip seed also in fresh 
ground each .year,] 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


Arr.iL 6, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


73 



PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

OUTDOOR PLANTS. 

HARDY ANNUALS. 

Those who make a practice of sowing in 
autumn those annuals that are sufficiently 
hardy to pass the winter safely have their re¬ 
ward in the early days of spring, when the out¬ 
door garden is comparatively bare of flowers. 
Some annuals never do themselves justice 
unless they get firm hold of the soil early in 
the season. The Leptosiphons, for instance, 
when sown in spring never seem to mako a 
show, but sown in autumn at a sufficiently 
early date to allow of their coming to a fair 
size before winter sets in, make a charming 
display in May. Comparatively few grow 
these pretty little annuals, but they are worthy 


6 inches across, and the blooms will come of 
a fine colour, and a plant of Limnanthes 
Douglasi will cover a square foot of ground 
if sown in September. J. Cornhill. 


PERGOLAS.—VI. 

This is an interesting example of a larger 
pergola, its object being to connect an en¬ 
trance court with a south lawn which is 
mown for hay, necessitating higher pillars 
than are usual to allow of the occasional pas¬ 
sage of waggons. The pillars are about 
15 feet from centre to centre. One side is sup¬ 
ported by a flower garden wall. The cross 
beams and main pieces are of Larch wood, 
the smaller trellising of Bamboo; but experi¬ 
ence is rather in favour of Chestnut. The 
pillars are sandstone, the plants Wistarias, 
yellow climbing Roses, single climbing Roses, 
and Honeysuckles. 


Pergola VI.—Leading from entranoe court to lawn. 


of attention. Owing to their diminutive 
stature they are not fit for association with 
strong-habited, coarse-rooted things. They 
enjoy the sun, and dislike stagnant moisture 
at the roots ; therefore, it is better to group 
them where they can enjoy favourable condi¬ 
tions. They do remarkably well on rock- 
work, so that any bare places can easily be 
filled with them.* In using them in this way 
the best way is to sow them about the middle 
of September where they are to bloom, so 
that transplanting is not necessary. There 
arc some beautiful colours among this annual 
now, and the neat Heath-like habit and ele¬ 
gant form of the flowers render them very at¬ 
tractive. Godetias treated as hardy annuals 
are a revelation ; each plant will cover a 
square foot of ground, and the stems will be 
as big as the top of a fishing-rod. The same 
nm be said of Collinsias, which never give a 
true idea of their worth when sown in spring, j 
Saponaria calabrica will make specimens ! 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Tulips failing— Can you tell me the cause of 
failure? I send two for inspection. A large, round 
bed. with hundreds of bulbs in it, five years ago was 
a lovely sight. The second year a small portion of 
it failed. The third year a larger portion was de¬ 
stroyed. I was told the Tulip-mite had attacked it, 
and was advised to dig out all the soil, replace it 
with new, and dress it well with gas-lime. This was 
done, and the bed left empty all the winter. Last 
summer all Geraniums and Salpiglossis did well; and 
again I had it planted with Tulips (Parrot), and all 
went well till the last ten days, when the green again 
began to disappear, and half the bed is attacked 
already, though only an inch or two of leaf above 
the ground. Is it grubs, mice, or what? ThiB garden 
is exposed to south-west winds, poor, thin soil on 
cliff-land, and we have to dig out n foot of 6tone to 
get depth for flower-beds.—P lrplkxed. 

[It is quite impossible to say from the 
material you submit what is the cause of the 
failure. You say nothing of the size or 
quality of the bulbs when planted, or when 
this was done, and so far as we can judge the 
trouble is of long standing. Each of the 


three bulbs^ent appears to have been eaten 
to the extent of more than one-half, but this 
must have been done weeks, or even months, 
back, to account for their present plight. 
Are you sure the bulbs were sound when 
planted? We put it to you in this way, be¬ 
cause the depredations of mice or rats in a 
bulb bed are easily and readily seen, and, 
again, the state of the fragments sent is such 
that a successful flowering is quite impossible. 
We regret we are unable to assist you further, 
believing the cause to be local, and possible of 
explanation only on the spot. If the bulbs 
were good and sound when planted mice or 
rats must have attacked them at once, in no 
half-hearted way. Slugs frequently eat holes in 
the outer portions of the bulbs, but we have 
never seen so sorry a lot as those you send. 
We would like to know something further 
about them, and, if possible, to see a sample 
in which a little vitality remained.] 

How to grow Sweet Peas 
of fine quality.— Hitherto it 
has been my practice to sow 
the better Sweet Peas in 
pots, placing five seeds in 
each pot, arranging them 
equi-distant. As a result of 
following this method I have 
invariably had blooms of a 
high order of merit. I have 
seen extraordinary blooms of 
Sweet Peas growing on land 
that had previously been 
farm land. The grower had 
sown two Peas in a small 
pot in February under glass, 
and, after hardening off in 
the usual manner in a cold- 
frame, the young plants were 
put out in their flowering 
quarters in late April or 
early May. Planting out 
must always be determined 
by local conditions, which 
vary in different localities. 
These plants were set out in 
rows, and the distance ob¬ 
served between' each pot of 
tw r o Peas was from 15 inches 
to 18 inches. When the 
plants were at their best, in 
the earlier half of July, they 
were bearing a splendid crop 
of some of the finest Sweet 
Peas I had ever seen. What 
the result would be in the 
gardens where better condi¬ 
tions prevail, and where the 
Sweet Peas could be tended 
more satisfactorily, it is diffi¬ 
cult to say. My second 
batch of seedling plants is 
just coming through the soil. 
I have sown one seed in each 
pot, and hope, by keeping 
the young plants cool, to 
promote a sturdy growth. I 
shall plant out the seedlings 
in rows, observing a dis¬ 
tance of about a foot between 
each one. A few of the 
stronger-growing kinds, such 
as Jeannie Gordon, Helen 
Lewis, and Miss Willmotfc, 
will be planted quite 15 
inches apart. I use stakes fully 10 feet 
high, and even higher when I can get them. 
—D. B. Crane. 

Sweet-smelling garden flowers —In planting 
beds and borders for the summer, due regard should 
be had to plants that give us of their fragrance, as, 
however attractive blossoms may be, they lack some¬ 
what if they appeal to the eye only. No one tires of 
sweet-smelling things like Mignonette, Sweet Peas, 
Stocks, Pinks, Carnations, Sweet Alyssum, Nicotl- 
anas. Wallflowers in the early summer. Pansies, 
Roses, and Rockets. In planting, therefore, or in 
sowing seeds, some of these should certainly claim 
our attention now.— Townsman. 

Raising Gentiana asclepiadea from seed.— I 
would be much obliged if someone could advise me 
how to grow Gentiana asclepiadea from seed? I have 
two large plants, white and blue, which annually 
flower very freely, and ripen any quantity of seed, but 
no young ones ever appear, nor have 1 been able to 
raise any.—L. R._ 

Climbing annuals (Emberton ).—Try the Canary 
Creeper, Tropreolum Lobbianum, T. tuberosum, 
Cobsea scandens, Mina lobata, Lophospermum 
scandens, Maurandya Barclayana, and Eccremo- 
carpus scaber. 


Google 


















74 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


April 6, 1907 


INDOOR PLANT8, 

THE CAPE SILVER TREE (LEUCO- 
DENDRON ARGENTEUM). 

The numerous sprays of this tree proved a 
considerable source of attraction to many 
visitors at the South African Exhibition re¬ 
cently held at the Horticultural Hall, West¬ 
minster, and I have been several times since 
then asked questions concerning its culture, 
etc. It is not hardy, but, iu common with 
South African plants in general, needs the 
protection of a greenhouse, and even then it 
is not very amenable to cultivation. The 
greatest measure of success is obtained by 
giving it much the same treatment as the 
Cape Heaths—that is to say, it must be 
potted firmly in a compost made up princi¬ 
pally of peat and silver sand, effective drain¬ 
age by means of broken crocks in the bottom 
of the pot being necessary. Watering must 
be carefully done, for excesses of drought or 
moisture are equally injurious. Plenty of 
fresh air whenever possible and full ex¬ 
posure to sunshine are both favourable to the 
Silver Tree. One of the best examples I 
have met with in this country used to bo 
planted out in the Cactus-house at Kcw, the 
comparatively dry atmosphere there main¬ 
tained, as well as direct exposure to the full 
rays of the sun, being greatly in its favour. 
Even with these advantages, the leaves were 
lacking in the brilliancy of their silvery ap¬ 
pearance compared with those that have de¬ 
veloped under the brilliant sun of South 
Africa, where the atmosphere is also so clear. 
Though it can seldom be obtained from nur¬ 
series, the Capo Silver Tree is by no means a 
novelty, having been introduced as long 
ago as the year 1693, just about the same 
time as the Blue African Lily (Agapanthus 
umbellatus). X. 


NOTES AND HE PLIES. 

Treatment of Amaryllis. — Last autumn I 
bought at an auction about eighteen Amaryllis bulbs 
in pots. They had been standing outside, and looked 
very bad. 1 kept them in the greenhouse, rather dry, 
all winter. They are now all growing vigorously— 
two are blooming. I shall be very glad if you will 
tell me how to treat them? They are most of them 
two or three in 5-in. pots. Do they like being pot- 
bound, or should I repot them, and when? Ought 1 
to keep them in the greenhouse all summer or stand 
them outside? Should they be quite dried otf in the 
winter or just kept a little moist? Any hints will be 
gratefully received.—M. R. 

[As your Amaryllises are now growing 
vigorously we should not advise you to dis¬ 
turb the roots at the preseht time; but if 
much pot bpund it will be a good plan to give 
them a dose of weak liquid-manure about once 
a fortnight. They flower best when the pots 
arc well filled with' roots. The bulbs should 
be kept in the greenhouse till they have com¬ 
pleted their growth, in all probability about 
the end of July, when they may be stood in a 
sunny spot out-of-doors in order to ripen 
them. All the while the leaves are retained 
they should he kept watered as before, but 
when the foliage dies down less must be given. 
As the nights get cool, say early iu September, 
they must bo again taken into the green¬ 
house, giving them throughout the winter but 
little water. This does not mean that they 
arc to be parched up. As you have in some 
cases at least two or three bulbs in a 5-inch 
pot, it is very probable that by next February, 
when they arc on the point of starting into 
growth, they will need to be divided and 
potted singly. Early in February is a good 
time to do this, a*s the roots will soon be 
active, and quickly take possession of the 
new soil. One frequently hears of failure in 
flowering the garden varieties of Amaryllis, 
but when this non-success is looked into it is 
often found to be caused by growing the 
plants too warm and shadpd, and failing to 
ripen them off thoroughly afterwards.] 

Sanseviera zeylanica— Would you be so eood 
ns to let me know the name of the plant from which 
enclosed leaf is cut, and whether it may be expected 
to bloom? It was given me about a year or more 
ago. and since then it has grown considerably In the 
stove. I find it will not stand cooler treatment or 
<lamp. No one knows anything about it here.— 
II. Hard. 

[The name of the plant of which you enclose 
a leaf is Sanseviera zeylanica, a native of 
the East Indies, from whence it was intro¬ 
duced as long ago The flowers, borne 

L.CK gle 


in a spike from 18 inches to 2 feet in height, 
are not at all ornamental, being small and 
greenish-white in colour. There are about 
ten species of SansevierA known to botanists, 
but they are very seldom met with in gardens. 
The term Bowstring Hemp is applied to the 
different members of this genus, from the 
fact that the fibre of the leaves is sometimes 
used to form a kind of string.] 

Managing a greenhouse. My employer has 
bought a new house, and had a greenhouse built (a 
lean-to on a south wall) in which he intends growing 
a collection of different sorts of plants, Including 
Ferns and creepers. Kindly tell me the degree of 
heat I should keep in it ? There are ventilators along 
the side. At what time should l open and when 
should I close the house? Ought it to have blinds put 
up? Kiudly mention some good creepers for same?— 
Anxious. 

[If it is intended to grow a general collec¬ 
tion of greenhouse plants in your new house 
the temperature required will be in the 
depth of winter 45 degs. to 50 dogs. by night, 
and about 55 degs. during the day. As 
spring advances the structure must bo kept 
somewhat warmer, till at this season (the 
latter part of March) a night temperature of 
50 degs., rising 10 degs. iu the day time, or 
even more when the sun is hot, will bo very 
suitable. About thu end of April, or, per¬ 
haps, a little earlier, you may;discontinue 
fire-heat altogether till September, when the 
nights grow cold. The time to open and the 
time to close the ventilators will, of course, 
greatly depend upon the weather, which 
varies day by day, so that no hard-and-fast 
rule can be laid down. As illustrating our 
meaning, wo may mention that in our own 
greenhouse on March 19th, owing to the ! 
rough cold wind the lights were scarcely open 
at all, whereas two days after, the ventilators 
were fully opened from nine a.m. to five p.m. 
A short burst of sunshine now will quickly 
raise the temperature of the house. When 
the greenhouse is shut up for the night the j 
paths should be damned in order to make the 
atmosphere moist. Throughout the summer 
nir may be left on the greenhouse night and 
day. Shading will, of course, be necessary, 
and by far the most satisfactory way of doing 
this is by means of roller blinds, as they can 
be drawn up when the weather is dull. Very 
suitable climbers are Clematis indivisa, 
Habrothainnus elegans, Hibbertia dentata, 
Lonicera sempervirens minor, Passiflora 
Imperatrice Eugenie, Plumbago capensis, 
and Tasconia Van Volxemi. We have an¬ 
swered your enquiries as far as possible, but 
should you need advice on any other point 
we shall be pleased to help you.] 

Cillenia trifoliata under glass. -The 
value of this hardy flower for forcing is now 
being recognised. It is strange that a plant 
which has been so many years an inmate of 
our gardens should be so little known. To 
the majority of flower growers this Gillenia 
is unknown, but it only requires to be seen 
to be appreciated. It grows to a height of 
about feet, has slender but rigid steins that 
are unaffected by stormy weather, so that no 
staking is required. The flowers, which arc 
white, with a pink spot, are produced in great 
profusion on branching heads, each a foot or 
18 inches across, according to the strength of 
the plant, and are remarkably weather proof. 
For forcing the plants should be potted up in 
November, and be introduced into moderate 
warmth iu January. Treated in about the 
came way as ttpira?as, Lilacs, and similar 
things, the plants will come along into bloom 
in April. The stiff branching habit renders 
this Gillenia most useful for cutting, and 
the durability of the flowers is just as marked 
in a cut state os when allowed to remain on 
the plant.—B yfleet. 

Variegated-leaved Funkias for the green¬ 
house. —What may be regarded as decorative 
plants of a more or less unorthodox character 
may often be seen in Covent Garden Market 
—that is, if a visit is paid during the early 
morning hours. I recently noted some of the 
variegated-leaved Funkias, which presented a 
particularly bright, and at the same time un¬ 
common, appearance. They should bo valu¬ 
able for decoration, particularly for the edging 
of groups in the greenhouse. Perhaps the 
best for this purposo is the variety with a 
large creamy centre to the leaf, usually known 
as Funkia undulata variegata, but the other 


variegated kinds are also pretty. I have be¬ 
fore met with them in pots for decoration, but 
these were much earlier than those previously 
seen. To the amateur with but a single green¬ 
house they can be recommended, for if a few 
plants are taken into that structure about 
the end of February the leaves will soon be 
pushed up, and towards the latter part of 
March, and in the months of April arid May, 
they are as valuable as at any other time. A 
desirable feature of these Funkias is their 
hardiness, so that except when in use they 
may be grown out-of doors. They are not at 
all particular as to soil and situation, and 
they make good town plants even in the open 
border, for they grow freely, nnd do not damp 
off during the winter, a« many subjects are iu 
towns so liable to do.—X. 

Streptosolen (Browallla) Jameson!.- A 
very showy flowering plant is this, and when 
accorded proper treatment it is surprising 
what a number of flower trusses a single plant 
is capable of yielding. It is too often kept 
in a half-starvod condition, the plant then 
making but indifferent growth, and such 
flowers as are produced are poor in quality, 
pale in colour, and quite unlike those seen 
on well-grown examples. This should not, 
nor need it bo, the ease, for it is not at all a 
difficult plant to grow, and it succeeds best, 
and perhaps flowers more freely, when given 
a warm greenhouse temperature. It may be 
grown as a pot plant, but in my opinion the 
best possible method of cultivating it is either 
to plant out in a brick built receptacle under 
a stage, or otherwise to employ large flower¬ 
pots, and to utilise the growths for clothing a 
pillar or the back wall of a bouse. Under 
these conditions it is astonishing how freely 
the trusses of deep orange-coloured flowers 
nro produced, and not only this, but each indi¬ 
vidual truss is of an enormous size compared 
with such ns nro ordinarily seen. If the 
growths are allowed to throw themselves 
about, as it were, and no attempt made at 
formal training, a most beautiful floral pic¬ 
ture is the result. I liavo the back wall of a 
lean-to house clothed with this Streptosolen 
in the manner suggested, and two seasons 
since a person who had just returned from the 
Transvaal, on entering the house remarked 
that the flower trusses were as fine as any 
he had 6een at the Cape, and that the 
plants were quite ns freely flowered, the only 
difference being in the colour, which WHxS 
more intense than with us. These plants are 
just commencing to flower again, and unless 
they behave differently hi what they have 
done in former seasons, will continue in bloom 
for the next three months to come. For coin¬ 
post they have a mixture of loam and peat in 
equal quantities, with a plentiful addition of 
silver sand. When in full growtli they need 
plenty of water, and a slight stimulant three 
or four times weekly is much appreciated.— 
A. W. 

Jasminum primulinum.— Though this 
beautiful Chinese member of the Jasmino 
family has since its introduction half a-dozen 
years or so ago scarcely fulfilled the antici¬ 
pations that were indulged in as an outdoor 
subject, it is a delightful plant for the cool 
groenhouse, and in this way it is now exten¬ 
sively grown. Resident* in tho particularly 
favoured parts of these islands may enjoy its 
beauty without the help of glass, but even in 
the neighbourhood of London this amount of 
protection gives the best results. It is easily 
propagated by means of cuttings put in 
during the spring months, and tho young 
plants so obtained quickly reach an effective 
size. Loosely disposed bushes 5 feet or so 
in height, with their arching shoots studded 
with bright yellow blossoms, form a very 
pleasing and distinct feature in a house de¬ 
voted to such subjects as Himalayan Rhodo¬ 
dendrons. Camellias, etc. As the Jasmine 
under these conditions flowers about March, 
its‘season of blooming coincides with that of 
several of its above-named associates. When 
first introduced this Jasmine was thought 
likely to prove a rival to our old and well- 
established winter Jasmine (J. nudiflorum), 
but so far as one can at present jud<»e this is 
not likely to be the case, for the beautiful 
golden blossoms of this last are met with even 
in the depth of winter, and the plant itself is 
almost-indifferent to soil aud position.—X. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


Ulyl 



April 6, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


75 


INDIAN AZALEAS. 

Azaleas, with fair treatment and reasonable 
attention to their well-being, never fail to | 
do well and to outlive the greater portion of 
other hard-wooded plants grown in pots ; in 
fact. Azaleas are amongst the longest lived [ 
of the various tribes of greenhouse plants. 
In proof of this I may instance several large 
collections that are in the bands of some of I 
the market growers near London, many of 
the specimens in which are known to be fifty 
years old. They consist mostly of the old 
white indica alba and Fielder’s White, which 
is only slightly different from the original 
sort. The plants in question are as full of | 
vigour as it is possible for them ever to have 
been. They make shoots from 8 inches to 
15 inches in length annually, only a small 
percentage of which fail to flower. The ! 


plants that do not bloom until the end of the 
winter or in spring are put out either as soon 
as they are well out of bloom or whilst the 
young wood and leaves are both soft, and 
the ripening process has not commenced. 
Yet this is the way that in nine coses out of 
ten Azaleas are treated. The outcome of 
this barbarous exposure of plants that have 
flowered at the end of winter or in spring, 
when, to do justice to them, all the time 
that intervenes between their going out of 
bloom and the close of summer, they should 
be in a genial growing temperature under 
glass, is that Azaleas are, as a rule, the 
most unhappy-looking things to be seen in 
most gardens. One of the results of thus 
turning out the plants directly the danger 
from frost is over, or soon after, is that they 
never attain the size they should, although 


after being put into pots as large as it is 
convenient to give them, shortly become de¬ 
pendent on what they receive in the shape of 
manure in some form. That old Azaleas can 
be kept for any length of time full of 
strength, and vigour I have proved with 
specimens that have remained undisturbed 
in the same soil for ten years, and at the end 
of that time they made as much wood as 
when they were young. It may be well here 
to say that peat of even the best quality is 
not rich enough to enable Azaleas to make 
the growth they should do. The assistance 
that is required in this way to either get 
young Azaleas on quickly or to keep up the 
vigour of old plants is much more than 
seems to be generally supposed. When ordi¬ 
nary manure-water is used for old specimens 
it should be given once a week during the 



Azalea Mrs. Turner. Flowers pink, with white margin. 


whole of the flowers are cut with from 
4 inches to 6 inches of wood attached. The 
plants are models of skilful cultivation ; 
many of them run from 7 feet in height to 
9 feet or 10 feet in diameter, though they 
are subjected to hard forcing, every year 
coming into bloom^at the beginning of No¬ 
vember and onward up to the commencement 
of the following year. As soon as all the 
flowers are cut, the plants are started into 
growth in heat and kept there until the buds 
are as big and plump as large Apple pipe, 
after which, to prevent their blooming before 
the flowers are wanted, the houses are either 
thrown open or the plants are moved to 
the open air. But when the latter course is 
followed with plants that are forced to come 
in early, and which are afterwards kept for 
six months under glass with fire-heat until 
the weather comes hot, it has a widely dif¬ 
ferent effect from that ^ 

Digitize'* 1 




the annual growth is not sufficient to admit 
of much in the way of cutting, unless the 
flowers are taken off with a scrap of wood 
that makes them all but useless. 

Another source of weakness that Azaleas, 
in common with most other hard-wooded 
plants, suffer from is want of sufficient nutri¬ 
ment. In the case of pot plants of the nume¬ 
rous kinds that bear partial shaking out and 
repotting annually, the old material which 
has become exhausted is to a great extent 
got rid of and its place supplied by new. 
With Azaleas and other things of a like de¬ 
scription, the nature of which is such that 
they will not Bubmit to be treated in this 
way, the roots remain for years in the same 
soil, and unless something is done to make 
up for what the roots extract from it, the 
whole becomes so poor that the plants cannot 
do more than exist in it. This especially is 
what takes place with old specimens that, 


time the plants are making their growth, and 
up to the time the wood is approaching a 
hard, mature condition and the buds are 
prominent. After this stage has been 
reached it is doubtful if manure in any shape 
does not do more harm than good. G. 


Ivy - leaved Pelargoniums. — in propagating 
Pelargoniums do not overlook the Ivy-leaved sorts, 
inasmuch as they may be used in several ways with much 
advantage. There are window-boxes to be filled, and 
what will give a better display in their particular line 
than these? Baskets whicn can he hung from green¬ 
house roof, or verandah or house window will present a 
charming appearance if some are grown therein. They 
strike very readily, and if a few are placed round the 
sides of a basket filled with loam and leaf-mould, the 
effect is very pretty in summer.- Woodbastwick. 


“The English Flower Garden and Home 

Grounds .”—New Edition, revised, with descriptions 
of all the best plants, trees, and shrubs, their culture 
and arrangement, illustrated on wood. Cloth , medium, 
duo., lbs.; post free, lbs. 0<L 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




76 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Apiul 6, 1907 


ROSES. 

* - 

CLIMBING ROSJ2S FOR MILD 
CLIMATES. . 

How well the beautiful- old Rose Lamarque 
flourishes in a climate 'suited to it! I am told 
that it is looked upon as a valuable Rose by 
flower-sellers in the south of France, and 
where is there in our collection a prettier or a 
more snowy-white bud? Yet it would not do 
for us in the home counties to try this Rose 
outdoors. Another beautiful Rose is Climbing 
Mme. de Watteville. Most readers are ac¬ 
quainted with the sweetly fragrant Mme. de 
Watteville, which someone has called the 
Butterfly Rose, because of its wonderful 
guard petals, whilst others have termed it the 
Tulip Rose, by reason of the pretty edging of 
pink on the petals. This, in a mild climate, 
is a luxuriant climber, but here it is very 
tender: Climbing Papa Gontier is not a Rose 
one could recommend for any but a warm 
situation, but it should be grown, if possible, 
for who does not know its dwarf namesake, 
and its charming buds, which bid fair t-o be 
rivalled by those of the newer Warrior? 
Climbing Devoniensis is a Rose looked upon 
as tender, although I have seen it in the open 
garden running over arches, but blossoming 
beautifully when plenty of short-jointed 
laterals has been secured. This is a Rose 
that pays to grow, but it is erratic. I find it 
blossoms best under glass when the laterals 
are about three years old, so that they are, 
as it wore, three-jointed, being cut back each 
year to 3 inches or 4 inches. I know of a 
very old standard plant of this Rose which 
suddenly threw out some growths of the 
original non-climbing form, and thus it re¬ 
mains; to this day, always flowering very 
freely. It is well with all of these where on 
walls to spread them out as horizontally as 
possible, which tends to check their vigour, 
and at the same time to ripen the wood. 

Climbing Perle des Jardins is another Rose 
no one should attempt to grow unless he has 
a very high and warm wall. A Rose very im¬ 
patient of cold and draught, it is, neverthe¬ 
less, one of our most cherished golden-yellow 
Roses. All of the sorts named would, of 
course, succeed well in a warm conservatory, 
and if a lofty wall needs covering quickly 
plant them thereon. Rosa. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 
Own-root Roses for pots.— It is probably 
true, as “ Rosa” says, on page 30, that 
growers do not fully appreciate own-root 
Roses, or there would be more of them 
grown, and more enquiry for them. All 
Roses may not do well on their own roots, 
but there certainly are 6ome. One of the 
best I am acquainted with is the old favourite 
Catherine Mermet. I remember fine plants 
of this having been grown more than twenty 
years since by Mr. Iggulden, at Mareton, in 
Somerset. These plants were raised from 
cuttings rooted in early spring from shoots 
which had produced a large flower. It is 
useless attempting to grow Roses from 
weak and spindly cuttings, and it is 
also futile to attempt this phase of Rose cul¬ 
ture unless the best efforts are made to pro¬ 
duce vigorous shoots. The advantage de¬ 
rived from Rose cuttings is that they send up 
strong suckers from their base, and it is 
found that these strong suckers give the 
finest flowers. The Marston plants were 
shifted on until they occupied 12-inch pots, 
and as young stock was raised each year the 
unsatisfactory and worn-out plants were 
thrown away, to be replaced by the younger 
and vigorous specimens. By these means a 
supply of these lovely Roses was maintained 
over several weeks of winter and spring in 
a warm greenhouse. During the summer 
months the plants were stood on a bed of 
cinders in the open, where the exposure to 
sunshine and air brought about the maturity, 
which is so desirable in forcing stock. Be¬ 
side Catherine Mermet the old Gloire de 
Dijon and its allies do well on their own 
roots, as also does Ike Bride, a white sport 
from Catherine Mermet. Hybrid Perpetuals 
■’jemadapted 
^ne^Taas a 


are some of t 
(jjilture ; but 


to this system of 


which give a succession of flowering growths, 
are the more popular. The Hybrid Pcr- 
petuals are very beautiful, and many of them 
very sweet-scented, but they have such a 
short season that there is not so much 
pleasure derivable from their culture. 
“Rosa” has given such complete cultural 
details that further reference is unnecessary. 
—W. S. 


CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Chrysanthemums—stopping: and timing: 

(Aroutr ).—Below we give the Limes for stopping the Chrys¬ 
anthemums mentioned in your letter. The dates are 
those intended for southern* growers, so you had better 
stop your plants about a fortnight, or rather less, earlier 
than the dates given herein. 


Name. 

British Empire 
President Loubet 
Mrs. II. Barnes 
Mrs. M. Hankey 
W. J. Crossley 
F. G. Oliver 
Leigh Park Wonder . 
Reginald Vallis 
Mrs. W. Jinks 
O. Arthur Milehnm . 
Mre. Gumming 
Mme. Mar. de Mons .. 
Mrs. D. Willis James 


When to stop. 

3rd week in May 
At once 

3rd week in May 
Not known 
At once 

3rd week in May 
At onoe 
At once 
At once 

3rd week in May 
At once 

3rd week in May 

1st week in May 


B’AiViA bui 
to retain. 
1st crown 
2nd crown 
1st crown 

1st crown 
1st crown 
2nd crown 
1st crown 
1st crown 
lat crown 
2nd orown 
1st crown 
1st crown 


- (John Walters ).—We are pleased to reply to your 

query, but we would point out that some of the varieties 
have already been mentioned in the columns of Gakdbn- 
ISO IIjMJSTRATKD. 


Name. 

Miss E. Miller 
Mrs. If. A. Allen 
T. Richardson 
Frank Greenfield 
Mrs. R. Lax ton 
Mrs. F. J. Duck 
Lorna Chambers 
Leigh Park W onder 
Beauty of Leigh 


When to stop. 
Natural break 
Early April 
3rd week in May 
At once 
Natural break 
Natural break 
At once 
Early April 
1st week in May 


The foregoing dates are given for growers in 
and on the assumption that the plants are well 


. 2nd crowr 
. 2nd crown 
. 1st crown 
. 2nd crown 
. 1 st crown 
. 2 nd crown 
. 2nd crown 
. 2nd crown 
. 1st orown 
the south, 
grown. 


FERNS. 

POTTING FERNS. 

Ferns should be on the move before potting 
is thought of. Some kinds are scarcely ever 
at rest, but from now onwards more active 
growth will be made, the fresh soil being laid 
hold of by the new roots at once. At all 
times it is a good plan to look closely after 
the condition of Ferns at the roots, the more 
delicate growing kinds needing in this respect 
rather careful attention, but for a general 
overhaul this is the best time of the year. 
The soil for Ferns will have to be somewhat 
varied to suit different varieties. The Adian- 
tums, for instance, will thrive well in a mix¬ 
ture of peat and loam, and, if intended for 
cutting, nearly all loam may be used. The 
loam will be found to be conducive to a 
harder and more enduring growth, the fronds 
usually being less robust, the pinnae smaller, 
and the colour a paler green. Tho mixture, 
however, is preferable in a general way for 
the majority. If first-rate loam, not too 
heavy, but with plenty of fibre in it, could al¬ 
ways be had, it might be used more freely 
than peat. If, however, this is not the case, 
a larger proportion of peat should be em¬ 
ployed ; this will prevent the soil from get¬ 
ting too close, sand always being used freely. 
As instances in which all peat is desirable 
(or with but little loam), the Gymnogrammas, 
Cheilanthes, and Notholnenas are examples. 
These Ferns always do best in peat alone, 
potting firmly, as with Heaths and Azaleas. 
It is an essential point to observe in the cul¬ 
ture of this class of Ferns always to have the 
soil quite firm ; a more enduring growth is 
thus made, but it may not be quite so rapid. 

One point in Fern culture should always be 
borne in mind; it is that of guarding against 
overpotting. Fern roots are not the most 
robust and lasting (unless those of the Tree- 
Ferns) ; when, therefore, the soil gets into a 
sour state before the roots have occupied it, 
they will not afterwards do so in a proper 
manner. A deal may be done with many 
Ferns in the way of reducing the balls ; this 
will be found better than relying too much 
upon potting on into larger pots, especially 
when the plants are likely to be used for 
decoration. 


When the potting is being seen to a sharp 
look out should be kept for scale ; this, as 
most of us are aware, is more persistent in 
its attacks upon Ferns than upon many 
plants. At the time of potting this may be 
done by reducing the fronds considerably, 
the roots at the same time being reduced and 
without any apparent cheek to the plants. 
Far better do this than spend time in clean¬ 
ing, unless in the case of choice examples. 
Moderately firm potting for other Ferns lie- 
sides those specially mentioned should be fol¬ 
lowed, and sufficient room should be allowed 
for a good surface dressing of fresh soil. See 
that none of the plants are too dry when 
potted, or else it will afterwards be difficult 
to get the entire ball into an equable state in 
this respect. Any excess of moisture after 
potting should be carefully avoided, both at 
the roots and overhead. Light syringing will 
be beneficial about twice daily, but shading 
should, for the present, be avoided. Gymno¬ 
grammas, Cheilanthes, and Notholjenns pre¬ 
fer a rather dry atmosphere, and should’ 
never be damped overhead, otherwise the 
fronds will soon show symptoms of decay. 


PHLEBODIUMS. 

This is one of the several groups into which 
the extensive genus Polvpodiuin has been 
subdivided. Although in general aspect 
tho Phlebodiums certainly resemble the 
Polypodiurns proper, yet the few species in 
cultivation belonging to this section are quite 
distinct and readily distinguished by their 
veins, which, instead of being free, are reti¬ 
culated, and also by their sori, which, instead 
of being in single rows upon the end of the 
short veins, are disposed in several rows on 
the pin me. From a decorative point of view 
Phlebodiums are extremely useful, their 
noblo fronds, which in most of the species 
are glaucous, producing a striking contrast 
with those of other Ferns with which they 
are associated in the w r arin fernery. When 
planted out, their naturally wild-growing 
rhizomes grow apace, and produce fronds in 
abundance. Those rliizomes, which arc 
fully as thick as a mail’s thumb, though seen 
on the surface, are also of subterranean 
habit, and have the property of extending 
underground to very long distances, with 
articulated fronds disposed upon them at 
short intervals. Phlebodiums may also In: 
used with advantage in hanging baskets of 
large dimensions, either by themselves or in¬ 
termixed with other Ferns with finer foliage, 
and also for covering dead Tree-Fern stems. 
Thus grown, their thick, chaffy rhizomes, 
equal in size to those of the Hare's Foot 
Fern (Davallia canariensis), show them¬ 
selves to perfection, the whiteness of the 
chaffy scales with which their extremities 
arc densely clothed being apparent. The 
value of this small group of Ferns for deco¬ 
ration is sufficiently attested by the fact 
that thousands of them find their way to 
Covent Garden Market every year; some 
growers, indeed, make quite a specialty of 
them—as much on account of their rapid 
growth as because of their distinct habit. 
Though the fronds of the Polypodiunis are 
of variable dimensions, they have a natural 
tendency to grow on a single rhizome, and 
would in that way be of little use as pot 
plants. To obviate this mode of growth, 
the extremity of the rhizome is cut off en¬ 
tirely when only a couple of inches long, 
the result being the production of several 
lateral rhizomes growing out of the muti¬ 
lated one in all directions, thus making 
bushy and compact plants. Being evergreen 
and strong growers, all tho Phlebodiums re¬ 
quire substantial food; ft mixture consisting 
of about equal proportions of fibrous P£ a - 
loam, and silver sand suits them best. lh p 
must also receive a liberal supply of w * ate 
at the roots while growing, and during tim 
time they will also derive great benefit iron 
occasional waterings with weak hq u 
manure. . , 

The Golden Polypody (Phlebodinra 
aureum) may be fairly regarded as the ,P 
cal species of the group, and the onc . 
which the others appear to be more or 
closely related. It possesses a very ^ 
ranee of habitat, being common m tne‘ . 

Indies and in South America as far as v 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 





Amu, 6, 1907 


GARDENING- ILLUSTRATED. 


77 


where it is found epiphytic on trees, espe¬ 
cially on the Palmetto in the peninsula of 
Florida. It is a strong grower, strikingly 
bold in habit, and, owing to its glaucous 
foliage, conspicuous. The popular appella¬ 
tion of “Golden Polypodium” under which 
this handsome plant is commonly known, may 
have been derived from the glossy bright 
brown colour of the scales that cover the 
older portions of its rhizomes, but it may 
also be due t-o the intense golden colour of 
the underside of its fertile fronds, produced 
by the enormous quantity of spore cases by 
which it is covered, and from which/ when 
ripe, a most profuse, bright yellow fine pow¬ 
der escapes, and covers the upper surface of 
the barren fronds beneath. 


NEPHROLEPIS EXALTATA ELEGAN- 
T1SSIMA. 

This Fern, a specimen of which we figure 
to-day, conies to u« from America, and bears 
a resemblance to N. Piersoni, which was the 
first sport from N. exaltata, the so-called 
Boston Fern. The fronds in the variety ele- 
gantissima are more finely cut than in N. e. 
Piersoni, the fronds being much looser, the 


VEGETABLES. 

TWO GOOD WINTER VEGETABLES. 
In the early part of the year good green 
vegetables are none too plentiful, but if good 
breadths of Chou de Burghley and Couve 
Tronchuda are planted at the proper season, 
there will be no dearth. Whatever may be 
said for winter Broccolis, at their best they 
aro uncertain, especially if severe frost should 
come during the first two months of the 
year. I am aware we have good kinds for 
this season, hut what kind can stand such 
biting winds as wo had last January? Conse¬ 
quently, it is not wise to rely too much on 
them, especially where these have to be 
grown in rich garden soil in low situations. 
I do not rely too much on any one green crop, 
except Brussels Sprouts. Next to those I 
| find Chou de Burghley of great value. When 
first sent out by Mr. Gilbert. I had not a good 
| opinion of it, but for years I have altered my 
ideas, and have come to regard it as of 
considerable value. Many expect to find in 
| the Chou dc Burghley a Broccoli-head similar 
to an ordinary Broccoli. This is not so. 


son. To obtain the best results I find it 
needs to be sown with the early Brussels 
Sprouts in March in the open. I plant it out 
between rows of first early Potatoes 2£ feet 
apart. From the land being in good heart 
this grows rapidly, making enormous heads 
by November. I am convinced when well 
grown it gives as much eatable food as any 
other vegetable. Added to this every stalk 
and mid-rib arc delicious. The large mid¬ 
ribs, cooked in the same way as Seakale, are 
excellent. Corset. 


NOTES AND NEELIES. 

Using artificial manures - I have just pur¬ 
chased some artificial manures: Sulphate of am¬ 
monia. sulphate of potash, kainit, and bone meal 
(tolerably fine/ How would you advise these should 
be used for different kinds of vegetables — for, 
say, Peas, Beans, Runner Beam, Cabbage tribe (in¬ 
cluding Kale, Broccoli, etc.), Parsnips, Carrots, 
Onions, etc.—separately or mixed? If mixed, how, 
and about what proportions of each? Should the mix¬ 
ture be used alike for all the crops, or should some be 
treated differently? Would any of these manures be 
desirable for the flower-garden?—N. Stephens. 

[You place us in somewhat of a difficulty 
by not stating the texture of your soil, 
whether it is light, medium, or heavy, and 



r*\ 


Nephrolopis exaltata elegantlssinm. 


lateral pinnae spread out and again sub 
divided, the sub-divisions being again cut 
into narrow segments. A first-class certifi¬ 
cate was awarded to it when shown by Mr. 
W. J. Godfrey, Exmouth Nurseries, at the 
Temple Show on May 29th, 1906 


Caterpillars on Cauliflowers —My Cauliflowers 
were so bad that I shrink from sowing any this year. 
I had to cut the flowers into small bits to clear out 
the caterpillars.—A. II. H. 

[Attacks of caterpillar on Cauliflowers are 
due to the too free presence of the Cabbage 
moth, which is seen hovering over breadths 
of Cabbages and Cauliflowers in May and 
June. It is a small brown moth, and do- 
posits its eggs freely on the plants. These 
later produce caterpillars. If it were possi¬ 
ble to catch the moths and destroy them when 
on the wing in the evening much harm might 
be avoided. When Cauliflower heads are in¬ 
fested with caterpillars dust them with very 
fine dry salt in the evening, then well wash 
out with clear water early m the morning.] 


Index to Volume XXVIII.— The binding covers 
(price Is. <kl. each, post free. Is. 9d.) and Index (3d., 
post free, 3td-> for Volume XXVIll. are now ready, 
and may be had of all newsagents, or of the Pub¬ 
lisher, post free, 2s. foiy*— 

Digitize 


oiVtTT^ two. 

Gov gle 


Others contend it has no claim to the name 
of Broccoli. I know in early autumn you 
cannot find a Broccoli head, hut if you allow 
good heads to remain over the winter, you 
can in spring see a small head of Broccoli 
concealed in the Cabbage-like head. Dur¬ 
ing the past season I have been cooking this 
vegetable each month since early October 
till March to test its value. I had very fine 
heads in early autumn from planting three 
rows close together on an old Celery trench. 
Naturally, they grew rapidly in such a good 
larder. Till frost came the flavour was 
strong, but after frost the flavour was ex¬ 
cellent. I find April is time enough to sow, 
planting out at the end of July or early in 
August. For spring use early June is the 
best. I find this stands the cold better than 
Couve Tronchuda. I have never tasted ordi¬ 
nary Cabbage with the fine flavour of this. 

Couve Tronchuda ranks among the best 
vegetables, and although it was introduced 
many years ago, there are many who do not 
know it. Many do not grow it, being under 
the impression it needs a lot of room. Those 
with small gardens should grow it as an out¬ 
side row beside the path. Another error 
many make is sowing it too late in the sea- 


such being the case we can, therefore, only 
advise you in a general way as to the use of 
the various manures mentioned in your note. 
In the first place, the manures are not such 
as we should use in combination, as the 
various ingredients needful for this purpose 
not being named by you, we assume you 
have only such chemicals as are included in 
your list. Either of the manures listed would 
form the basis or one of the constituents of 
a concentrated or specially compounded 
manure, but under the circumstances we can 
only advise you to use them separately. The 
first named on your list being a nitrogenous 
manure, you may use it at the present time 
as a stimulant for spring Cabbages, for in¬ 
stance, and later on for any other of the 
Brassicas. Crush or pound the chemical as 
fine as you can, and then strew it on the 
surface of the ground between the rows of 
whatever the crop may be, taking care that 
none falls on the leaves, or it will burn and 
disfigure them. Sulphate of ammonia or 
bone-meal may also be used with benefit for 
Raspberries in need of change of plant food. 
Use the first named at the rate of 1 oz. to 
2 oz. per square 'yard. The bone-meal 
may lu?c enougjp of to just colour the 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 





78 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


April 6, 1907 


ground, and lightly hoe it in. Sulphate of 
ammonia and sulphate of potash should be 
left on the surface for rain to wash in. This 
last named manure you can use with good 
effect for all kinds of leguminous crops, 
such as Peas and Beans, and root crops. 
One to 2 oz. per square yard would be | 
ample quantity to use at one application. 
This may be applied to the surface of the 
soil now, and again during growth. Kainit, | 
which is similar in nature to the manure just i 
dealt with, may be used for Asparagus, root i 
crops, bush-fruits, and fruit trees generally, 
which stand in need of a stimulant. Kainit 
in the last mentioned case is best used 
during the winter months ; but you may give 
Asparagus beds a dressing now, using suffi¬ 
cient to colour the surface with it, and let 
rain wash it in. For root crops apply it to 
the soil before sowing at the rate of 3 oz. 
per square yard, when it will be available a6 
plant food when the crop begins to grow 
freely. The bone-meal you may use with 
safety for all kinds of fruit-trees, particu¬ 
larly such as are denominated stone fruits. | 
Sulphate of ammonia is also used by some for 
Potatoes, and it may with advantage be ap¬ 
plied to herbaceous borders also, 2 oz. per 
square yard being an ample quantity. One- 
half to 1 oz. of sulphate of potash per square 
yard may also be used for the same purpose, 
and of bone-meal you may give the soil a 
liberal dressing, and at once fork it in. In 
the absence of details in regard to composi¬ 
tion of soil and precise nature of the crops 
you intend growing the above information is ! 
the best we are able to afford under the cir¬ 
cumstances, but after perusing it you should 
have a good general idea as to how to make 
use of the manures you specify.] 

Carrots failing.—My Carrots are very much 
blackened by being evidently eaten into, I think, by 
wireworm or Carrot fly-maggot. The early Carrots 
did not suffer. The soil is heavy.— Bideford. 

[We know of no better dressing to keep off 
insect pests than a heavy dressing of soot, 
forked into the soil before sowing the 6eed, 
and two or three dustings of soot over the 
plants w r hen from 3 inches to 6 inches in 
height. In thinning do not pull the plants, 
but cut out with a hoe to avoid loosening the 
soil.] 

Adding nitrogen to the soil.— I want to "nitro- 
genise " a piece of land. Can you tell me what to sow 
so that I can dig it in and put nitrogen into the 
ground?—E xperiment. 

[We presume by the use of the word “ ni- 
trogenise ” you mean adding nitrogen. If 60 , 
use either nitrate of soda or sulphate of am¬ 
monia. It may be, however, that you are 
thinking of means of producing nitrogen in 
the land. The best known system is to grow 
Clover or other leguminous crops; but a 
newer method, although yet hardly out of the 
experimental stage, is to inoculate the land 
with nitrogen-producing bacteria. This last 
method—unless your signature denotes your 
state of mind —is best left alone at present if 
you want a certainty of good results, which 
you can obtain by the use of either of the two 
manures specified.] 

Spinach Beet.— On page 10 this hardy 
vegetable is recommended by “ A. W.,*’ and 
this can be supported by many other readers 
of Gardening Illustrated. Time was 
when similar value was placed upon it here, 
but for some unexplained reason it has lost 
much of its popularity in the kitchen, and is 
now so seldom inquired for that its growth is 
not justified. I can bear out all that “ A. W.” 
says of its hardiness and value, and I know 7 , 
too, that in households where Spinach is in 
frequent demand it is allowed as a substitute 
when other Spinach cannot be had. One 60 w- 
ing each year will make ample provision for 
treacherous winter weather, May and June 
being the better months for doing so. Rich 
soil is neither necessary nor advisable, be¬ 
cause an excess of vigour promotes coarseness 
of leaf grow th.— Wilts. 

Early spring Cabbages. —Really good 
early Cabbages will probably be scarce. Un¬ 
less we get a change in the weather very 
shortly we cannot possibly get many young 
Cabbages of any size fit for cooking until 
quite the end of April. Gardeners will re¬ 
member that the soil was very dry in July 
and August last yearjSo that good healthy 

Digitized by GO glC 


plants were difficult to obtain, and it was 
late in the autumn before many were planted, 
and then the frost that set in about the 
middle of December has continued, with 
slight intervals, nearly three months, so that 
really no growth was made by the young 
Cabbages, and they are very little larger now 
than at Christmas. When the usual clear¬ 
ance of winter Greens takes place to make 
room for Potatoes, it is almost certain that 
there will be a scarcity of green vegetables. 
After trying a good many sorts of Cabbages, 
I do not find any more reliable than 
Wheeler’s Imperial, El lam’s Early, and 
Nonpareil, for these seldom bolt, but form 
nice little close hearts.—J. G.. Gosport. 


GARDEN WORK. 

Conservatory. —Very small fires will suffice 
now'; in fact, there are days and nights 
when no fire is required, and soon the fires 
may be dispensed with altogether for this 
season. Shift on Fuchsias, and pot off cut¬ 
tings recently struck. These young plants 
may be helped on a little longer in heat; in 
fact, the conservatory is not generally used 
to grow young stuff, as the house is not 
adapted for that work when used merely as a 
show house, where this is attached to the 
dwelling, or isolated. Very often w'hen 
the conservatory is not attached directly to 
the dwelling-house it is connected by a glass 
corridor, and this has to be kept bright with 
climbers and other plants, either planted in 
the borders or grown in pots. Tacsonins, 
Passion-flowers, free-growing Roses, Camel¬ 
lias, Oranges, Australian Dracjenas, New 
Zealand Flax, Tree-Ferns, if there is room, 
cool house Palms and Bamboos are graceful 
plants either in tubs or planted out. A few 
good specimens planted out or in tubs will 
give character, and save labour in other 
ways, as no one know s, except those w ho have 
been placed in charge, of the labour and 
anxiety attached to keeping these large lofty 
conservatories and corridors going with 
flowers in winter. In summer the matter is 
comparatively easy, but in winter we are 
thankful for a few Palms, Camellias, or 
Orange-trees of specimen size, round which 
can be grouped the plants in flower. Well- 
grown Calceolarias and Pelargoniums are 
useful now, and will be more so when the 
bulbs are over. Of course, there will always 
be plenty of Lilies coming on. Just now 
L. Ilarrisi is charming, and Arum Lilies in 
good sized groups have a bold effect. Spiraeas 
also are useful, because they have plenty of 
green foliage, and are never overpowering 
either in colour or fragrance. It is still ad¬ 
visable to do the watering in the morning. 

Stove.— Rearrange the plants which are in 
pots frequently. It not only makes the 
house more interesting, but the plants thrive 
better W'hen moved to a fresh position and 
a fresh surface exposed to the full light. We 
never shade till it is absolutely necessary, 
but the sun is gaining power now, and a thin 
shade will be gratefuL for an hour or tw 7 o in 
the middle of the day. A blind that can be 
rolled down is the best shade, as when not 
required it can be rolled up, and the plants 
fully exposed. Crotons and other bright¬ 
leaved plants want all the light they can have 
with safety to put colour into the foliage. 
Do the watering in the morning, and damp 
floors several times a day in bright weather. 
This may take the place of the syringe if the 
water is hard and impure. Anything that 
requires repotting may have attention now'. 
Cuttings of various kinds may be inserted in 
the propagating case, and when rooted 
potted off. W T ork up a good stock of Poin- 
settias and Begonias for winter decoration. 
Sow seeds of Asparagus and Smilax. These 
are certain to be wanted. 

Cucumbers.— The weather cannot be too 
bright and sunny for Cucumbers if the plants 
are healthy and well nourished. Cucumbers 
j are composed chiefly of water, and the 
| foliage takes in a large quantity from the at¬ 
mosphere. Do not shade if it* can be done 
without. If we work on the rushing system 
very little air is given, and the house is 
always in & state of saturation ; but this is 


not quite the best treatment for the private 
gardener or amateur, who may want the 
plants to last through the season. Plant in 
soil which contains some body, so that the 
growth may be hardy and robust. In light 
soil the plants are soon run out, and must 
be replaced. It is always wise to keep a few 
young plants in stock. Stop the young shoots 
one leaf beyond the fruit. 

Orchard-house.— The blossoms are set 
now 7 , and disbudding will be waiting. Give 
the trees a good wash to remove faded blos¬ 
soms. Trees in pots must be carefully 
watered. Make a practice of tapping the 
pots in every doubtful case. The roots are 
active now, and will take up a good deal of 
water, and a little stimulant may be given 
once a week. A little later it may be given 
twice a week. Change the stimulant some¬ 
times, or else use a special mixture to suit 
each fruit. Syringe twice a day when the 
weather is bright, and close with a little sun¬ 
shine in the house. This will increase the 
size of the fruits, and help to keep out red- 
spider. When calm and mild give a little 
night air. 

Late forced Strawberries.— These will 

come on well now on shelves in cool Tomato- 
houses, or late Peach-houses, and very good 
fruits have been grown in cold pits. It should 
not be necessary to fertilise the blossoms, as 
with plenty of ventilation every perfect 
flower will set. As soon ns a dozen fruits 
are set remove all the small fruits and late 
blossoms. Strawberries in May are fre¬ 
quently as valuable as when earlier, as they 
fill up the gap between the early forced 
fruits and the crop in the open air. Use the 
syringe freely whilst the fruits are swelling. 
Abundant supplies of water will be required, 
and a stimulant may be used. 

Ferns and Palms In the house.— For 

table work the Cocos Palms are the most 
suitable. Many fail with these through 
giving too much water. They will bear a 
low temperature if kept fairly dry. Of 
course, this does not mean dust dry. There 
must be moisture enough for healthy root 
action, but the Cocos Palm is not a strong 
rooting Palm like the Kentia. Kentias nre 
useful for rooms, make very handsome speci¬ 
mens, and are easily managed. 

Outdoor garden. —Hardy bulbs are very 
beautiful now. The season begins with the 
Winter Aconites and Snowdrops, followed by 
Narcissi, Scillas, Anemones, etc. The 
grouping of these things in sheltered corners 
of the lawn and shrubbery offers opportuni¬ 
ties for tasteful arrangement. The less for¬ 
mality in the matter the better. Summer¬ 
flowering Chrysanthemums have in some 
places suffered from the cold winds. In 
dividing the old roots take the pieces for re¬ 
planting from the outsides. Many people 
strike cuttings of their open-air Chrysanthe¬ 
mums under glass, but healthy pieces from 
the outsides of old plants will soon get estab¬ 
lished, and make a good show. Hollies may 
be moved now with safety. Every recently 
planted tree or shrub should be mulched 
with manure. This is a good time to divide 
herbaceous Phloxes. If grouped in decided 
colours along the back or centre of a wide 
border they 6how up well. The beds for 
Tuberous Begonias should be made rather 
richer than would be required for Pelargo¬ 
niums. The earliest Sweet Peas will now 
require sticks. In their arrangement leave 
the tops of the sticks open, but pass strings 
of matting or raffia round in several places 
to keep in the Peas. Sweet Peas may be 
gown or planted for succession, and plants 
raised in pots may be set out. Sow seeds 
of hardy perennials in shallow drills, covered 
with fine soil. 

Fruit garden.— If there are likely to be 
slugs or snails among the Strawberries dust 
lime and soot among the plants. Prepare 
clay for grafting, but let the sap rise freely 
before the grafts are inserted. If chaff is 
mixed with the clay when tempering it it will 
be less likely to crack. All cracks should 
be stopped when seen, as if the air works 
under the clay the graft may die unless the 
matter receives prompt attention. Old fruit- 
trees generally bear well, but the fruits are 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



At-nit. (?, 1007 


a. 4 Rh UjYIjVG 1L L V ST RA TED. 


email. This can be met now by giving rich 
top dressings or by using liquid-manure. A 
good way of giving liquid-manure is to make 
Holes with a crowbar to receive the liquid, 
06 it will then find its way to the roots at 
once. The holes can afterwards be filled up 
with the top dressing. Trees grafted on 
dwarfing stocks being surface rooting should 
not be dug among with the spade, and 
should be mulched with manure before the j 
dry weather sets in, at any rate. Some- i 
times this mulch is put on now, hut a light 
pricking over with the fork, and then before i 
the moisture escapes from the ground, put- | 
ting on the manure will do good. We do not 
want to keep out the early sunshine alto¬ 
gether, but to nourish the roots when the 
hot weather comes. Suckers round Plums 
and Nut bushes should be cleared, and care¬ 
fully removed. 

Vegetable garden. —The land works well 
now for Potato planting. Trench planting is 
better than the dibber, as when manure is 
used, artificial or otherwise, it can be distri¬ 
buted in a better manner. Do not crowd 
the plants ; from feet to 3 feet is a suitable 
distance between the rows, with from 
12 inches to 13 inches between the sets. Do 
not plant small sets, as plants raised from 
robust eyes retain their superiority all 
through their life. Plant out Onions which 
have been raised under glass. Give plenty 
of room if large bulbs are wanted. The land I 
must be good and deeply worked. Plant out 
Cauliflowers which have been raised in heat, j 
In dry, porous soils plant in trenches. Make ! 
a last sowing of Celery outside to come in for j 
late use. The plants from this sowing will I 
not run so soon, and the Celery retains its 
freshness longer. These plants may be 
grown on what is termed the bed system, and 
a lot of useful Celery may be grown in a 
small space when it can be protected in 
severe weather. The Turnip-rooted Celery 
may be sown now. Sow Lettuces and other i 
salad plants in succession. It is rather soon | 
to sow the long Beet yet, but the Turnip- 
rooted Beet may be sown. E. Hobday. 

THE COMING WEEK’S WORK. 

Extracts from, a Garden Diary. 

April 9th .—Potted ofF Lobelias of Crystal 
Palace, compaeta, and Emperor William. We 
generally pot off into small pots a couple of 
thousand, and then fill a lot of boxes. The 
latter are seedlings, and are good for edging 
or forming masses. We are also propagating 
a number of the double Lobelia, as it makes 
a good basket plant in the conservatory. We 
also grow a lot of the scarlet Lobelia Queen 
Victoria. We have a damp border where it 
does well. I am rather disappointed with 
come of the hybrids, of which I bought a 
collection some years ago. None are equal 
to the scarlet for effect. 

April 10th .—In the kitchen garden Potato 
planting is being done. The drill method 
is the plan adopted, and all the strong¬ 
stemmed varieties will have 3 feet between 
the rows. The ground is in pretty good 
heart, but a little superphosphate is scat¬ 
tered along the drills. Spaces are left in the 
Potato patches 14 feet apart for late Peas 
to be sown in succession. We have adopted 
this plan for some years, and the Peas have 
done well without injuring the Potatoes. 

April 11th .—Shifted on a lot of small 
Ferns into 5-inch pots. A thin shade is used 
over Ferns and Palms now, and during 
sunny weather a good deal of water is used 
on the paths. Pricked off a lot of seedling 
Ferns into shallow boxes. These also will 
be kept warm and shaded for a time. Work 
in the vineries is incessant now in the regu¬ 
lation of growth, ventilating, watering, etc.; 
but we are getting most of the plants into 
other houses and pits as fast as possible. 

April 12th .—Pricked off many seedlings 
of various kinds. We usually pot off Petu¬ 
nias and Verbenas, as they feel no check 
when planted out. We used to turn out 
several thousands of Calceolarias, but these 
are not very reliablevSIftl we are substituting 
yellow Antirrhinum A CLifeab as DAilltefwarf 
yellow Marigolds, amfAvt’ hav^pWcP-good 


beds of the yellow annual Coreopsis pegged 
down at first, and for a time closely pinched. 
Standard Fuchsias and Heliotropes have 
been grown to meet a demand which has 
arisen. 

April ISth .—Hardy edging plants round 
some of the beds have been replanted. The 
variegated variety of Euonymns rndicans 
makes a very neat edging, and when trimmed 
in once a year improves with age. Planted 
Gladioli in masses and clumps. Some are 
grown in beds in kitchen garden for cut¬ 
ting. Planted out Sweet Peas raised in pots, 
and made a further sowing outside, as we 
want Sweet Peas for cutting as long as 
possible. 

April Ufth .—Shifted on a lot of young 
Carnations, chiefly American varieties, for 
winter flowering. A few more Chrysanthe¬ 
mum cuttings, chiefly of new sorts, have 
been put in for blooming in small 
pots. Moved a collection of Hollies to a 
new position on the lawn. The plants were 
moved two years ago, so there is no risk in 
moving again to a fresh and more suitable 
site. Put in more cuttings of choice Cactus 
Dahlias, and potted off a lot of seedling 
Dahlias. Planted out Tea Hoses from pots. 


POULTRY. 

HATCHING BY HENS. 
Notwithstanding the enormous strides that 
have been made in artificial incubation dur¬ 
ing the last few years, there are still a goodly 
number of people who prefer to employ hens 
for hatching, and, in some cases, the choice 
is a wise one. When only a few hens are 
kept, it is not worth while to go to the ex¬ 
pense of an incubator, especially when it is 
merely desired to hatch a few birds for lay¬ 
ing the following season. The great draw¬ 
back to hens is that it is often a matter of 
great difficulty to procure them during the 
winter, as they do not show, as a rule, any 
desire to sit until the spring has arrived. It 
sometimes happens that a bird wants to sit 
in January or February, and it is a wise 
plan to allow her to do so, as she will then 
bring out a brood of early chickens always a 
valuable asset. 

A warm shed should be provided for the 
sitting liens, each one being placed in a nest- 
box quite separate from the other birds, so 
that they can neither see their fellows at 
liberty nor be seen by them. The best size 
for a nest-box is about 15 inches square and 
18 inches high. A series of holes should be 
pierced around the top of the box, so as to 
admit plenty of fresh air, and a few more 
3 inches or 4 inches from the ground, on a 
| level with the eggs. Inside this box should 
, be placed a shovelful of fresh earth, hollowed 
! out a little in the centre, so ns to keep all 
the eggs together and prevent their rolling 
away into the corners. A thin layer of straw 
should be placed on the earth, and on this 
again the eggs. 

Once a day the hen should be made to 
come off the neat for from five to twenty-five 
minutes, according to the temperature. Dur¬ 
ing very cold weather the former length of 
time would be ample, whereas during the 
summer twenty-five minutes, and even half 
an hour, are none too long. Unless the eggs 
are regularly and systematically cooled once 
a day, the chickens will not develop so well, 
with the result that when they do hatch they 
will entail more difficulty in rearing success¬ 
fully. The embryo chickens commence to 
breathe when only a few days old, and thu 9 
if fresh air be denied them it stands to reason 
they cannot thrive so well. When the eggs 
are cooling, the hen should be supplied with 
food and water; hard grain only should be 
used, not mash, because the birds, being fed 
but once a day, require something that takes 
a long time to digest. Wheat, Barley, or 
Maize are all suitable for feeding to sitting 
hens—especially the Barley and Maize—these 
assisting very materially in maintaining the 
temperature of the body. 

In everything connected with natural 
hatching the most scrupulous cleanliness 
should be observed, as dirt or vermin in any 
form has a very injurious effect upon the re¬ 


sults. The sitting hen herself should be quite 
free from lice, as if troubled in this direc¬ 
tion she will be restless and liable to forsake 
her eggs. It is a good plan to dust her 
with a disinfectant powder before setting 
her, besides providing her with a dust-bath, 
consisting of dry earth or ashes every time 
she comes off for feeding. The nest-box it¬ 
self should be whitewashed between eaeii 
occupancy, as it is surprising how quickly 
the vermin multiply. A good mixture for 
this purpose is composed of two gallons of 
lime and water, together with half-a-ponnd 
of soft soap and one pint of paraffin oil; the 
soft soap causes the whitewash to adhere to 
the walls, while the oil destroys all the 
vermin. E. T. B. 


A sour fowl run (J . F. Ward ).—In order to 
sweeten the soil it is unnecessary to no to the expense 
of erecting frames, however rough they may he, and 
I should suggest digging the ground well over, and 
planting some quick-growing Cabbages or Ten-week 
Turnips, both of which make excellent green stuff 
for the fowls. A few Turnips, cut in halves, would 
be greatly relished, besides which they have a good 
medicinal effect. If the frames are erected. Lettuces 
would be the most suitable.—E. T. B. 

Roup in fowls.— I will be glad to know what can 
he the cause of some of the hens and pullets being 
swollen round the eyes and running at the beak? 
Are they likely to recover, or ought they to be 
killed?—M rs. Stratton. 

[The birds are suffering from roup, which 
is really a combination of cold in the head 
and a microbe of tuberculosis. Unless the 
birds are very ill indeed do not kill them, as 
a cure, though rather troublesome, is not 
very difficult in the early stages. Keep them 
in a warm house, free from draughts, and 
perfectly dry; bathe the eyes, mouth, and 
nostrils daily in water in which some per¬ 
manganate of potash has been dissolved in 
the proportion of 4 grains of the latter to 
1 ounce of water. Some flowers of sulphur 
should be mixed with the soft food every 
morning, about a tablespoonful for twenty 
adults. On wet or very cold days the affected 
birds should be kept under shelter.] 


BEES. 

Removing bees from old hives (Be- 
lfirmer). —You muet certainly provide new 
hives in place of the old, damaged ones. The 
best time to transfer the bees and combs will 
be during mild weather in April. If the 
frames are of regulation measurements the 
operation will not prove very difficult. Place 
the new hive in front of the old one, into 
which blow a small stream of smoke through 
the entrance, then gently peel off the quilt, 
uncovering the top of one frame at a time. 
With a scraper or knife remove propolis and 
bits of comb found on the top bar, and eo 
proceed (puffing in a little smoke from time to 
time) till all top bars are clean. Take out 
one of the outer frames with the bees cluster¬ 
ing upon it, and place it in the new hive, and 
so proceed till all have been removed, taking 
enre that they all have the 6ame relative posi¬ 
tions. Old dark combs, not containing brood, 
may be removed, and in their places frames 
furnished with sheets of foundation, be 
placed. You will, of course, provide clean 
quilts to cover the frames in the new hives, 
and be careful to guard against chill, as 
strong hives contain a large quantity of brood 
by the middle of April. You must feed the 
bees liberally if short of stores. Close up 
any bare space within the hive by means of 
the division-board, that there may be no 
escape of heated air from the hive.—S. S. G. 


LAW AND CUSTOM. 


Removing edging tiles (Jupe).- You may re¬ 
move these, as they are not affixed or fastened to 
the soil. These are articles of convenience or orna¬ 
ment, and are not fastened to the freehold, and may 
he removed without injury or disturbance. We are 
presuming that these were not put down in the place 
of some other border belonging to the landlord and 
removed by you. 

Erecting stile in pathway C reply to Puzzled). 
— I cannot answer this question satisfactorily with¬ 
out being in possession of fuller details of the case. 
You say that "recent alterations ’ have made this 
erection desirable. Please explain what these altera¬ 
tions consist of, as the whole matter may turn upon 
the necessities of the case?—B arrister. 



80 


QAUDEjYIjYG 1LL USTRA TED. 


April 6, 1907 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

Questions.— Queries and aiunrcrs arc inserted in 
Gardknixg free of charge if correspondents follow these 
rules: All communications should be clearly aiui concisely 
written on one side of the paper only, and addressed to 
the Editor of Gardening, 17, Furniralstreet, Ilulborn, 
London, E.C. Letters on business should be sent to the 
Publisher. The name and address of the sender are 
required in addition to any designation he mag desire to 
be used in the paper. When more than one query '* cent, 
each should be on a separate piece of paper, and not more 
than three queries should be sent at a time. Correspon¬ 
dents should bear in mind that, as Gardening has to be 
sent to press some time in advance of date, queries cannot 
aheays be replied to in the issue immediately following 
the receipt of their communication. We do not reply to 
queries by post. 

Naming 1 fruit.— Readers who desire our help in 
naming fruit should bear in mind that several specimens 
in different stages of colour and size of the same kind, 
greatly assist in its determination. We have received from 
several correspondents single specimens of fruits for 
naming, these in many cases being unripe and other¬ 
wise poor. The differences between varieties of fruits are 
in many cases so trifling that it is necessary/that three 
specimens of each kind should be sent. We can undertake 
to name only four varieties at a time, and these only when 
the above directions are observed. 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

Hyacinths after blooming Of’. 11. /I.).—It is no 
use relying on these for flowering in pots next year, 
and yon should plant them out in April In a sunny 
border or along the edge of the shrubbery. They will 
then bloom every year, but the flower-spikes will be 
small, and only fit for cutting. 

Bulbs for pots (llermcs).— Of Narcissi, get the old 
double yellow. Golden Spur, princeps, and Emperor 
or Empress; of Tulips. I.a Heine (white), Yellow 
Prince (yellow), and Vermilion Brilliant, following 
with one of the Pottebakker forms; of Hyacinths get 
Grand Vedette Single (white), Norma (pink), Robert 
Steiger (red), and William 1. (dark blue). 

Rose-leaves damaged (M. 7t.).—The Rose-leaves 
look to us as if they had caught a chill. You are 
keeping the house far too hot. and more air must he 
admitted. This is clear from the limp, weak foliage 
you send. In giving air you must he careful not to 
admit cold draughts, as these will soon bring on 
mildew, and spoil the plants. Have you been fumi¬ 
gating with Tobacco, as this would cause the injury 
to the leaves? 

Treatment of Genista fragrars (P. C. IT.).— 
As soon ns the flowers fade cut back the shoots, leav¬ 
ing about 2 inches of last season’s wood. Keep the 
soil at the roots on the side of dryness until the 
young growths issue forth, and when these are some 
2 inches long shift into the next sized larger pot. 
keep close for a time, and then give plenty of air, 
shading a little from very hot sun until the middle 
of July, when the plants may be plunged out-of-doors 
In coal-ashes or Cocoa-nut-fibre until the end of Sep¬ 
tember. 

Begonias for the flower-garden (Mary J. 
Powys).—It you have any glass, then you can pur¬ 
chase Begonia bulbs now, and start them yourself, 
planting them out in May. If. however, you prefer it, 
we would advise you to purchase the Begonias in 
pots about the end of May. If you get good-sized 
plants, then you will require about 100 bulbs, planting 
these in two lines with ail edging of some such plant 
ns Lobelia. Mesembryanthemum cordlfolium variega- 
tum. or any other you may prefer. For effect we 
should advise you to grow the single Begonias. 

Cliorozemas after blooming (Anxious). — When 
the flowering is over prune back hard—that is to say, 
cut away the greater portion of the long flexible 
shoots, leaving only two or three eyes at the base of 
each. If stood in a light position in the greenhouse, 
and occasionally syringed, young shoots will soon be 
pushed forth, and when these are about half-an-inch 
long the plants should he repotted, using sandy pent. 
Pot very firmly, and take care that the collar or the 
plant is not buried deeper than it was previously, us. 
if the collar is covered with soil, the plant often dies. 

Arum Lilies after blooming (Anxious ).—When 
the plants have done blooming keep them under 
glass until Juno, then stand on n bed of ashes in the 
open air in a fairly shaded position. Let them remain 
thus until September, giving them no water. They 
thus go to rest, and at the beginning of September 
they are potted up and placed in a cold pit till the 
-nd of the month, when they arc given a warm green¬ 
house, and begin to bloom about Christmas. Some 
people plant them out during the summer, lifting and 
potting up in the early autumn; but keeping them 
in pots and treating as above, we have found always 
gave the best results. 

Diseased Camellias (J.).-If nil the leafnge on 
the plant is the same as that you send it must be in 
a very bad way indeed. You do not say wherp it is 
growing, and without such information it is diflcult 
to give a remedy. The plant is infested with scale 
and hug, and every part of the stems should he well 
washed with strong, soapy water, into which iR 
stirred either a wine-glassful of parallin oil to the 
gallon, or carbolic-soap, well scrubbing the stems. 
The leaves seem as if burnt with some foul gas or 
air. They should he well cleansed with soapy water, 
then with clear water; but. we fear all of them will 
fall, and if so the plant will be worthless. The pot¬ 
ting should lie left until April, using a compost of 
one-half turfy loarn, the rpst being peat, leaf-soil, 
and some sharp sand, well mixed. 

Stephanotis floribunria in a greenhouse GW.). 
—In a general way, this plant requires more heat to 
do it well than can be obtained in an ordinary green¬ 
house. It should be potted in rough loam and peat, 
made fairly porous witji^and and brokwi charcoal. 
Keep the plant dry, or nearly^o, in A^nfer^ Fn the 
stove [the plant is an elcrgixAi .1 jit rltJi<I ff'enhouse 
many of the leaves wm—ftrrbr and an ex¬ 


hausting effect, and the new growth, starting late in 
spring, has not time to ripen sufficiently to flower 
well. Of course, when wintered in the* stove, the 
plant may be removed to the greenhouse or conserva¬ 
tory when in flower in summer, but this is a very 
different thing to keeping it all the year round in the 
greenhouse, and where one succeeds in growing this 
plant satisfactorily in the greenhouse a good many 
fail. 

The Moon flower (Ipomiea bona nox) (/?. H.).— 
The name Moon-flower is given owing to its singular 
habit of expanding its flowers only at night and clos¬ 
ing them on the following morning. For garden pur¬ 
poses this peculiarity renders the plant of much less 
value than it would be if its large pure-white flowers 
expanded during the day. They can, however, be used 
for indoor decoration at night, as when cut and 
placed in water the buds expand beautifully and re¬ 
main in perfection all night. I. bona-nox is a tropi¬ 
cal annual, thriving with us only when grown in 
a moist stove. The stems grow rapidly to a length 
of 20 feet, or even 40 feet, when under liberal treat¬ 
ment. The flower - tube is about 6 inches long, 
the limb about the same in diameter, the whole 
being pure-white with a few tints of pale green. The 
flowering period is summer. Seeds should be sown in 
February, and the plants potted into large pots filled 
with strong loamy soil or planted out in a border. 

Heliotrope for winter flowering (IF. II.).— 
Shift your plant into a size larger pot, if, as we take 
it, you have potted it once ami the pot is full of 
roots. Encourage it to grow freely. The points of 
the shoots must be pinched out. so as to induce them 
to break freely. Keep the plant growing on in a 
genial moist temperature, and by about the middle 
of June it may be shifted into the flowering-pot, 
using one from t> inches to H inches in diameter, aud 
the soil should be in a rather rougher condition than 
that used in the first stages of the plant’s growth, 
and be sure to give abundance of drainage. When it 
has become established again it may be plunged out- 
of-doors. in coal-ashes, in u rather sheltered spot. 
All bloom-buds must be pinched off throughout the 
summer, and attend well to watering and syringing. 
Early in the autumn place it in its winter quarters, 
which, as before said, must be warm and light, and 
abundance of bloom should result throughout the 
winter. A few stakes will he required to prevent the 
branches from breaking, and weak liquid-manure occa¬ 
sionally given will be of much benefit. 

TREES AND SHRUBS. 

The Judas-tree (Cereis Siliquastrum) (B. 0. D.).— 
We are supposing this is the plant you refer to as 
*• Judis.” If so, it is easily raised now from seed in 
a gentle hot bed, afterwards hardening the seedlings 
off and pricking out into good soil in a sheltered 
situation. When sending queries please read our 
rules as to enclosing name and address. 

FRUIT. 

Ants on Peach trees (If .).—The ants infesting 
your Peach-trees are there because they prey upon 
the black aphis or fly infesting them. Destroy the 
aphis ami the ants will soon disappear. You may 
safely fumigate the house mildly —hut do so only 
mildly—and repeat the dose two or three evenings 
later. After tlie bloom Is set and over, you will do 
well to give the trees a syringing with strong soupy- 
water, and then wash it off with strong syrlngings of 
clean water. When the house is dry then fumigate 
again, and continue to do so as long as fly is in 
evidence. Do not he afraid to well wash the trees 
occasionally aR the leaves develop, as they soon be¬ 
come infested with the fly. 

Artificial manures for fruit trees (Red House). 
— The mixture of chemical manures you have- 
chloride of potash, 0 lb.; basic slug, 14 lb.: sulphate 
of ammonia, 7 lb. —is a very good one for fruit-trees, 
hut it is late in the season to apply the potash and 
slag in a dry state. Could those have been applied in 
January, reserving the sulphate of ammonia until leaf- 
growth had begun, it would have been better. In 
taking how much of this mixture should he applied 
to each fruit-tree, you omit to inform us whether 
your trees are young or old, small or large. Old or 
large trees would need some three to four times the 
dressing young or small trees would need. Still, if 
for old trees you give 4 oz. per square yard of root 
area, and for young trees 2 oz. for the snme area, that 
will do. On the whole, it may he best to dress at 
once, and lightly fork the chemicals in, adding soot 
also liberally,if to be had.then giving to each dressed 
tree a good soaking of water. If made into liquid- 
manure, use out* pound weight of manure to 10 gallons 
of water. 

VEGETABLES. 

Tomatoes In greenhouse Of.).—You can grow 

Tomatoes very well indeed in the summer in your 
little lean-to greenhouse without fire-heat. But if 
you wish to start the plants early, then some aid to 
warm the house is needful. If you cannot well raise 
from seed, you can no doubt, purchase strong plants 
from some florist; you would not want more than 
eight. They should be planted in boxes 10 inches 
wide inside, and the same depth, filled with good 
soil, but with little manure—that will be best used 
later for a top dressing. You must tie the plants to 
rods or w ires, and keep every side shoot hard pinched 
out or you may grow each plant singly in a 10-inch 
pot. 

Growing Salsafy (.-l.).—The roots of this veget¬ 
able are very apt to grow forked unless the manure 
be buried deeply. The best way is to open a trench 
IS inches deep, place the manure at the bottom, return 
the soil, and sow the seeds in a drill exactly over the 
manure, so ns to tempt the roots to run straight 
down into it. The drills may be 1 foot apart, and 
tiie plants should be thinned out to G inches asunder. 
The first week in April is the best time to sow 
Salsafy; if sown too early it is apt to bolt. The roots 
keep well in the ground in the same way as Parsnips; 
and if a little dry litter he placed along the rows on 
the approach of frost the roots may be lifted as re¬ 
quired for use. 


Tomatoes damping (C.).— From the appearance 
of your Beedling Tomato-plants we should imagine 
that, their stems have been weakened by being kept 
so far from the glass. Your Tomato-plant stems arc 
• r » inches long, and it is no wonder thus drawn up 
so weakly that they have withered or damped. W'c 
see no reason whatever to blame the soil; but you 
should sow seeds at once again, and then with warmer 
weather and more light, producing stronger and 
quicker growth, you should have far better results. 
Stand the plants, so soon us they are well through 
the soil, on a shelf or somewhere as near the glass 
as you possibly can. It is not probable that you will 
then have cause to complain of damping. Give the 
pots plenty of druinage, and then add sharp white 
sand to the soil. 

Growing 1 Herbs (H.). — For a good supply of 
Herbs all the season plant a few roots in a warm, 
sunny place to come on early, and also a few roots in 
some cool position for use during hot weather. 
Mint is easily increased by separating the young shouts 
with a bit of root attached in spring, and planting 
in rows (> inches or 8 inches apart. Thyme and Sage 
are best increased from cuttings in April, planted 
firmly with a dibber, to be watered and shaded for a 
time until they begin to grow. Make a new bed 
every year, ns young plantations are the most reli¬ 
able, and stand the winter best. Sow Parsley about 
now, and again in July; thin out to 0 inches apart in 
August. Cut the largest leaves off a part of the crop 
to induce a new growth for winter. Plant a few 
roots in a warm spot for early use. 

Growing Shallots (Robeston ).—If the hook yon 
refer to did not state, in relation to Shallots, when 
to plant the cloves and bow to plant them, then 
much was lacking. The proper season for planting 
Shallot cloves or bulbs is February, on fairly open 
soils, although in some localities planting is done in 
November. That is, however, rather risky. Ground 
for them should he well manured and deeply dug, 
then the cloves planted in rows 9 inches apart, the 
cloves being pressed into the soil in the rows from 
7 inches to 8 inches apart. See later that frost does 
not lift them out of the soil. Keep well hoed between 
after growth begins, and in dry weather an occasional 
soaking of water is helpful. As a rule, the bulbs are 
ripe to lift about the middle of July. It is best to 
let them thoroughly ripen before pulling. It is very 
commonly found that large cloves, or part of a cluster, 
when planted, reproduce many others, and smaller 
cloves reproduce but two or three large ones. For 
that reason it is well to plant both sizes. If not done, 
you may plant at once. 

MISCELLANEOUS. 

Preserving netting (S. G.).— The best thing for 
this is boiled linseed-oil. The netting should be 
saturated in it whilst hot, then when it has cooled, 
taken out, pressed or wrung, and bung tip to dry. 
This renders the netting comparatively weather-proof, 
and, at the same time, fairly supple. 

Fowls' manure ((Donington ).—The mnnure from 
a fowls’ run Is very good material for almost any¬ 
thing; but the run should be covered with sand or 
ashes, from olf which the manure could be raked every 
day or so quite clean. Then, as collected, it should 
be smothered with soot, and be placed In a heap and 
mixed with its bulk of soil, allowing it so to remain 
for a month, then turning it aud giving it yet a 
further dressing of soot, still allowing the manure to 
remain to sweeten and become incorporated with the 
soil. Practically, if allowed to remain some three or 
four moutns so much the better for your purpose. 
Then spread It about, and just lightly fork it in. A 
thin dressing suffices; still, it is unwise to employ this 
manure solely, as a diverse dressing is desirable the 
following year. 


SHORT REPLIES. 


Doubtful.— For your district stopping and timingshould 
be about ten days earlier than the dates you give. A great 
deal, however, depends on the strength of the plants. \ on 
will find all the varieties you mention dealt with in recent 

issues of this journal.- No Name.—See article on 

“Grafting of fruit-trees” in this issue, p. 69. — —Goose¬ 
berry.— No, you cannot remove the fruit-trees. If you 
sj>eak to the landlord he may allow vou to remove them, 

but legally you cannot. - Maul of Onfn Ydfa.— Write to 

M. Vilmorin et Cie., 4, Quai de la Megisserie, Paris. * 
Anxious. —See article on “ Indian Azalpas” in the present 

issue, o. 75.- Delta. —The flower-spikes are formed in 

the bulb the previous season, and no mode of treatment 

when forcing them will increase their number.- 

BootA.—Quite impossible to suggest any reason from the 

dried-up scrap you send us.- Frank fUj/nne. -Tne 

growth on the Achillea was caused by a grub, which on 

cutting up we found inside.- Tennis Laicn.— The only 

way you can get rid of the Plantains is by digging 
out. Both the lawns you refer to will be considerably 
benefited by a dressing of nitrate of soda or sulphate or 

ammonia at the rate of lb. per rod. - New Beginner- 

—If you will consult recent issues you will find most of tee 
varieties of Chrysanthemums you mention dealt with. **} 
the treatment of any that you fail to And we shall be giso 
to help you. See article in a coming issue re “ Chrysan¬ 
themums in 6-inch pots.”-J. Chapman.— If .V° ur *" * 

ported Azaleas have been properly managed they ong 
to be showing flower now. See article re culture 
Azaleas in the present issue, p. 75.- — A. E. ® 
article on “ Pruning Roses” in our issue of March 39. P-® 


NAMES OF PLANTS AND FRUITS. 

Names of plants.— F. H. L. Mortice.—* 

cristata.- F. S. A rnold.-^l, Evidently a form of 1 

concolor ; 2, Pieea Pinsapo, we think.- C. Jones. _ 

soft pricklv Shield Fern (Poly Stic hum angulare)- 
J. D. F.— Heuchera Richardsoni, but we must 
flowen to be quite sure. 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


No. 1,4GG. —Vol. XXIX. 


Founded, by W. Robinson, Author of “The English Flower Garden." 


APRIL 13, 1907. 


INDEX. 


Apple Striped Beetins .. 91 RuIIm after (lowering 94 Ferns, raining 84 Lavalera Olhia .. ..91 Physalis Fram-hetli .. 83 Roxes. maggot k on 80 

Applo-tree-bark, insects Camellias in the open air 94 Flower gardens simple Fawn, a weedy ., 9t Plants and flowers .. 81 Hhruha have wintered in 

on . .. .. ..88 Chrysanthemums 84 and geometrical, the l«awu, patches on 94 Plants for window-boxes 94 Sussex, how flowering 89 

Arum Lilies .. ..88 Chryaatith emums to planting of .. ..81 Lawn, using nitrate of Plant*, fragrance in pot 88 Shrubs, watering.. 94 

Arum Little Oom .. 88 flower in 6-inch jtota .. 84 Forsythias, tho .. ..90 soda on.83 Potatoes for quality .. 94 Snail-slug (Testacella 

Asparagus, planting .. 92 Citrus triptera in Uamp- Fruit.91 Magnolia Soulangoana Primula vcrticillata .. 88 haliotidea). the .. 88 

Azalea mollis after shire .90 Fruit garden ..93 mgra .90 Roekfoil, Nepaul (Saxl- Stove.93 

blooming.94 Clematises in bed .. 94 Fruit picked by birds .. 91 Mustard and Cress .. 94 fruga (Megasoa) ligu- Tomatoes, inside .. .. 93 

Bay-lives, watering 94 Conservatory .. ..93 Fruit prospects ..91 Note from Wilts, a .. 91 lata), the 83 Trees ancl shrubs.. .. 89 

Begonia Gloiro de Lor- Crinums .94 Garden diary, extracts Novelties for exhibition, Room and window .. 90 Yew-trees.90 

rain© .. ..88 Cyclamen pereicum at from a.93 some good ..85 Rose Plmrisaor (Hybrid Vegetable garden .. 93 

Begonias, preparing lied- Heading.87 Garden pests and friends 88 Odontoglossum crispum 89 Tea) .85 Vegetables forexhibition 92 

ding .94 Cyclamens.88 Garden work .. ..93 Olearia Haasti ..94 Rose shoots injured .. 86 Vino borders, watering 

Begonias, tuberous 94 Cymbidium Sander! 89 Gardens, children's .. 81 Orchids .89 Roses.85 inside ..93 

Brier. Lady Penzance Cucumber-loaves wither- Grapes mildewed.. .. 91 Outdoor garden .. .. 93 Roses as wall climbers, Vine shoots, stopping .. 94 

pruning.94 ing.. .91 Greenhouse, shading a .. 94 Outdoor plants .81 Hybrid Perpetual 88 Vines, disbudding 94 

Bull* in the Grasa, over- Ferns, hardy, for a town Gum-trees (Eucalypti) .. 94 Peach-house, early .. 93 Roses grown as shrubs, Week s work, the coming 93 

doing .81 greenhouse .. .. 84 Kales .82 Pcntstomon .. 81 manuring .. .. 86 Wistaria, treatment of .. IK) 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

OUTDOOR PLANTS. 

OVERDOING BULBS IN TIIE GRASS. 
Tub way <>f planting hardy bulbs in Grass 
often gives most satisfactory results, if wo 
think of the nature of the soil and adapt the 
plants to it. But the thing is often spoilt 
by overdoing, as at Kew and other places, 
where bulbs are dotted thiekly all over the 
ground and are tiresome from want of the 
relief which is afforded by fresh Grass bare 
of flowers. This overdoing is inartistic, and 
not natural, for even in countries where such 
plants abound we find most charm in the 
groups that occur here ami there, and often 
in small numbers they delight us. There is 
another reason why Narcissi should not In; 
dotted too freely in meadow Grass, ns where 
the Grass is worth mowing, animals dislike 
the hay mode from the mixture, and, there¬ 
fore, where the Grass is meant for hay, it is 
better to keep out the Narcissi and plant 
them instead in woods or in places wo do not 
wish to mow'. Some plants- and very pretty 
ones-look best when seen in moderate or 
even small numbers. The pale Bavonne 
Daffodil, which, to me, is the most welcome 
of the early kinds, never appeals so much as 
when a few scattered flowers appear round 
an old tree-stump or on a dry bank. Spread 
all over the place it would he a failure in 
effect. 

The Scarlet Windflower (A. fulgens) is one 
of the most brilliant flowers of spring, and 
is often most effective when a few flowers 
nrc* seen here and there. This is a plant that 
does best in the Grass—at least, in my case, 
because in the garden it fails after the first 
year’s bloom, which is often very handsome, 
whereas a few plants thrown out in the Grass 
at random will thrive and continue to do so. 

Snowdrops in drifts in valley soil flower 
better than when scattered all over a place. 
Some things, however, arc, perhaps, best 
when seen in quantities, but even in their 
case we should make a break somewhere to 
get relief and change. 

The Blue Wood Anemone is also a plant 
that appeals to us more effectively in tufts 
aud small groups, and the same may be said 
of the Greek Anemone, which is still not 
common enough to lx? spread everywhere. 

It. 

Children's gardens,— Nearly all children 
have a fondness for flowers, and if for no 
other reason than this, every facility should 
be given them to grow “in a garden all their 
own” a few plants that will lend beauty and 
sweetness to a place. Few hobbies are so 
healthv as that of gardening, and just now, 
when much time is being spent, in the open 
air, is the right time to begin. Parents 
should encourage ther children -to take an 
interest in such matte*? by setting| apart a 
plot fo£, them, giviifc them* a tot pro¬ 


viding the necessary seeds and plants, first 
showing them how the ground should be pre¬ 
pared, and suggesting what to how' and plant, 
and when. It will, of course, be a great ad 
vantage if the portion of ground reserved is 
one which gets the morning sun, as then 
many simple things like Sweet Peas, Mignon¬ 
ette, Candytuft, Stocks, Shirley Poppies, 
Virginian Stock, and creeping plants for poles, 
etc., as Canary Creeper, Convolvuluses, can 
be sown. For a few pence one may purchase 
small plants of Pelargoniums, Fuchsias, 
Heliotropes, Antirrhinums, Mimuluses, all 
of w’hich make a garden gay and keep young 
people employed, fostering habits of patience 
and watchfulness, which do not a little in 
helping to mould the character of hoys and 
girls, and exerting an influence oil them in 
after years. — -Townsman. 

TIIE PLANTING OF FLOWER GARDENS 
SIMPLE AND GEOMETRICAL. 
After the wave of opposition to the severely 
regular spring and summer planting of flower 
gardens with materials that, would last their 
day and then decay abruptly and completely, 
there was a tendency to overdo the matter in 
the opposite direction, and without altering 
the style of the existing garden to substitute 
for the above planting all kinds of herbaceous 
subjects in an incongruous mixture, and one 
saw patterns of crests, mottoes, scrolls, 
dragons, and the like filled with things not so 
suitable as the former tenants, and why? Be¬ 
cause these old-fashioned flowers were not in 
harmony with their surroundings; they 
looked out of character in connection with 
closely-clipped Box-edging and paths of 
gravel, broken bricks, etc. I am not one of 
those who utterly condemn the geometrical 
flower garden, as I think it is in keeping with 
the architectural characteristics of some 
houses and their surroundings; but it- should 
always, if possible, be on turf, when there is 
not the slightest difficulty in filling it with 
perennials if suitable things are chosen, and 
the style adopted in many cases with tender 
plants. If a long sustained and continuous 
display is required in all. or, at any rate, 
the majority of beds, considerable thought and 
enro will be necessary, and in most cases the 
filling of individual beds with any one subject 
or in many cases family, must not be at¬ 
tempted, although an exception may bo made 
in the case of Phloxes, whero the early and 
late-flowering sections may bo carpeted 
with the setaeea type. There are, of course, 
other associations of separate families. I 
just, give this as an example. 

Pinks and Tufted Pansies in variety are 
among the best of the carpet plants, because 
in the one case when flower is absent the 
foliage is bright and pleasing, and in the 
other the flowering season is long sustained. 
What are the best taller subjects to associate 
with these? For larger beds there are few 
better things than the new varieties of 
Lobelia fulgens, Pentstemons (both florist 


varieties and one or two of the other forms, 
especially harhatus), Monbretias, the taller 
Snapdragons, and other things. Three capital 
things of somewhat dwarf habit, are Del¬ 
phinium Belladonna and Geuin splendcns, 
both of which should rise from a white carpet, 
and Gaillardias in variety, which should have 
a bed, or beds, solely devoted! to them. Of 
Pyrethrums the singles make the, best and 
most enduring in masses, as double flowers 
are knocked about by heavy rain or wind. 
They take so much out of t he soil as to render 
it almost impossible to find things to associate 
with them permanently, or at least for several 
years, except when lifted annually, and the 
beds re made. As a permanent associate 
there are few lie tier things than Hisyrinchiuni 
striatum, a plant hardly in the front rank, 
but decidedly fine for rather poor beds or 
borders. E. Burrell. 

PENTSTEMON. 

Among free-flowered liorder plants few arc so 
brilliant as the Pentstemons, scattered over 
Canada and the western United States. All 
are perennials, though some of them bloom in 
their first year from seed, and not a few 
spring from a hard shrubby base. Their 
variety of habit and colour, as also size 
and form of flower, render them the most 
graceful and interesting of plants. Our damp 
English winters are against them, though the 
hardier kinds will often survive in southern 
gardens of light soil when protected from 
frost; with the shelter of a cold frame nearly 
all the kinds may be kept 6afely. Those com¬ 
monly grown are a race of hybrids of uncer¬ 
tain origin, but believed to be crosses from 
P. Hartwegi, Cobtea, and a few others, the 
seedlings having been further improved by 
selection. Though less common in gardens 
tho variety of wild kinds offers a rich choice 
for the rock garden and l>order, most of them 
being easily grown and increased, though 
many kinds do not vary from seed. Pent- 
fitemons must have good soil and abundant 
moisture. When grown as rock-plants it must 
be remembered that they need richer treat¬ 
ment than alpines, with constant moisture at 
the root (often best secured by stones) though 
enjoying full sunlight. Many kinds are gems 
for the rock-garden, maintaining in good years 
a succession of flower from June w r ell into 
October. Whero the soil is very light it 
should be enriched with cow-manuro and the 
roots protected from frost with Cocoa-fibre or 
ashes. Young plants are best raised from 
cuttings taken after flowering, and rooted in 
a cool frame of light sandy soil, air being 
given freely throughout the winter when pos¬ 
sible, planting out in tho following spring. 
The following include some of the best cul¬ 
tivated species, many being excluded on ac¬ 
count of their rarity or tenderness : — 

P. azureus is a beautiful plant 1 foot to 2 
feet high, forming a neat tuft of narrow grey 
leaves nud loose spikes of azure-blue flowers 
shading to reddish-purple at the base. The 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


























82 


GARBEA 7.AT; ILLUSTR. 1TED. 


ArniL 13. 1007 


variety Jaffrayanus, one of the best dwarf 
kinds, about a foot high, with reddish stems, 
bears large flowers of rich blue in showy 
clusters of three to five blossoms. 

P. barbatus, commonly known as Chelone 
barbata, is a tall, erect plant, very showy in a 
dry season, and ono of the best and hardiest 
of border kinds. Its spikes of narrow, tubular 
flowers, varying from light pink to bright car¬ 


and open, nnrrowing to the base ; colour vary¬ 
ing from reddish-purple to nearly white. 
August. This kind Messrs. Wallace inform 
us is hardy at Colchester. (See next page.) 

P. CYANANTHU8. —This is a distinct and 
lovely kind, of erect growth, attaining 3 feet 
to 4 feet in height. The flowers appear in 
clusters on dense spikes, 1 foot or more in 
length, composed of short, stout 6tnlk«, and 



Pentstemon grandiflorus. 


mine, rise from a dense spreading tuft of 
bright green leaves. Torreyi is a pretty form 
with deep scarlet flowers, longer in the lip, 
and coming rather later than in the parent. 

P. campanulatus grows about 2 feet high, 
branching freely. Its long narrow spikes of 
flowers, variously shaded in pink and violet, 
are borne during a long season. 

P. Cob^a, from Texas, has stout, erect 
growths 2 feet high^he flowers very large 

Digitized by CjOOQIC 


are of a bright azure-blue colour. In favour¬ 
able seasons this flowers during May and 
June. 

P. diffusus is a beautiful semi-shrubby 
kind, from 2 feet to 4 feet high, with flowers 
of a violet-purple colour, that form a large, 
loose.many-branched bead. It blooms through¬ 
out the greater part of summer and autumn. 
Though perfectly hardy, we find that it is 
liable to succumb to the damp of our early 


winters ; or, should it survive this, to the keen 
north-eastern blasts with which our climate 
is only too familiar, and which scorch the 
early spring growth. Like all the Pentste- 
mone, it is readily increased by means of cut¬ 
tings, and possibly would come true from 
seed, but in this country seeds rarely ripen. 

P. glaber. —A handsome plant, the best for 
all purposes. It is of dwarf, erect growth, 
often less than a foot high, and slender in 
habit. Tho flowers are borne in clusters of 
six or seven ; colour, bright blue, shading to 
violet or purple. 

P. GLAUCU8. —A pretty species from the 
Rocky Mountains, growing about 9 inches 
high. It bears dense clusters of dull lilac or 
bluish-purplo flowers of medium size, with a 
wide pale throat. 

P. grandiflorub. —A tall grower, making 
stout stems about 3 feet high. The flowers 
are of a fine blue or purple, with a wide base 
and very short stalks. (Here figured.) 

P. Hartweoi is more generally known as 
P. gentianoides. Not only was the old species 
valuable as one of our very best autumn¬ 
flowering border plants, but in its progeny, 
called into existence by the skill of the florist, 
we have not only endless variety of colour, 
but increased size of bloom, the old, narrow, 
tubular flower acquiring the dimensions 
almost of a l'oxglove. It was recorded as 
lound by Humboldt and Bonpland, growing on 
lofty mountains in Mexico, at an altitude of 
nearly 11.000 feet, about the beginning of this 
century, but was not introduced into cultiva¬ 
tion till 1828. 

P. HBTEROPHVLLU8. —A handsome sub- 
Bhrubby kind of dwarf habit. It has showy 
flowers produced singly or in pairs from the 
axils of the upper leaves. They are of a pink- 
lilac colour in the type, but seedling varieties 
are very liable to vary. It is hardier than 
many species, but often succumbs to severe 
winters ; therefore reserve plants should be 
secured. 

P. HUMiLis is a very distinct nlpine species, 
of dwarf stature, rarely exceeding 6 inches or 
8 inches in height. It forms compact tufts, 
and is free-flowering. The blossoms, which 
are large for the size of the plant, present a 
very attractive appearance, on account of 
their pleasing blue colour, diffused with a 
reddish-purple hue. It should be planted in 
the rock-garden in tho most select and fully- 
exposed spot. A compost of gritty loam and 
well-decomposed leaf-mould should be used, 
and during summer it should be copiously sup¬ 
plied with water. It blooms in the early part 
of June, and is a native of the Rocky Moun¬ 
tains. 

P. Murrayanus.— A very handsome and 
distinct plant, with deep scarlet flowers, each 
about 1^ inches long, upon long slender 
stems of 2 feet to 3 feet. It is best grown as 
a tender biennial, though perennial in its wild 
state. A fine race of seedlings has been raised 
from this plant by Messrs. Vilmorin under 
the name of Murrayanus grandiflorus; the 
flowers larger, and varied as to colour. 

P. ovatub. — A rare and pretty mountain 
plant, with slender erect steins of 3 feet, 
bearing loose spikes of blue flowers, which 
chango to rosy-purple. It is best grown from 
seed at frequent intervals, old plants becom¬ 
ing exhausted. 

P. Palmeri.— A handsome plant, reaching 
in good soil 3 feet to 5 feet high, the flowers 
in a panicle 18 inches to 24 inches long, peach 
coloured, streaked with red. It is quits 
hardy, and will succeed in any well draiued 
soil. 

P. frocerus is a beautiful little plant, and 
about the hardiest of all the species, as it 
takes care of itself in any soil. It is of a 
creeping habit of growth, sending up from 
the tufted base numerous flowering stems 
6 inches to 12 inches high. The flowers are 
small, in dense spikes, and, being of a lovely 
i amethyst-blue, it forms a charming plant, 
adapted alike for the border or rockery. H 
seeds abundantly, grows freely in any ordi¬ 
nary garden soil, and is the earliest to blos¬ 
som of all the Pentstemons. P. nitidus and 
P. micranthu8 are synonymous with P. P r0 ‘ 
cerue, and P. confertus is somewhat similar. 
The latter has straggling stems, and though 
by no means ehowy flfc- is a very distinc 
species. 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 












April 13, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


83 



bushy specimens. Such plants, however, 
bloom earlier, while the produce is three 
times that of spring cuttings. 

Seedlings. —The Penfcstemon is a free 
seeder, and there is no difficulty in obtaining 
seed. Seed should be taken from only the 
finest varieties. The seed should be sown in 
February or early in March in a gentle heat: 
it will quickly germinate, and when the plants 
are large enough to handle, they should bo 
pricked off into shallow boxes, and, after a 
time, hardened off in a cold frame. Hero 
they can remain till the end of May or later 
according to size, and they should then bo 
planted out in well-prepared beds. When 
they flower, which they will do by August 
and September, any especially good varieties 
should be marked to propagate from. If the 
plants are allowed to stand for another 
season (and this is often a good plan), the 
seed-stalks should be cut away as soon as 
ripe, and the bed cleaned, top-dressed with 
leaf-soil and short manure in spring, and 
there will be a plentiful harvest of flowers the 
following summer. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

The Nepanl Rockfoil (Saxifraga (Megasea) ligu- 
lata).—I send you a plant in flower, carefully done 
up in a wooden case. The plant has been potted up 
about six weeks, and during that time it has been in 
a cold greenhouse. I take Gardening Illustrated, 
and shall be glad if you will tell me what the name of 
the plant is? Here, people call it by all sorts of 
fanciful names. I have a bed of it, partly in the 
shade, and on damp, light soil, where it flowers about 
the end of February. The roots remind me of the 
Christmas Rose. It will not bear the full sun. It is 
valuable, as flowers out of doors are scarce in Febru¬ 
ary.-W. T. C. 

[The plant of which you send a piece is a 
poor variety of the Nepaul Rockfoil (Saxi¬ 
fraga (Megasea) ligulata). It is a common 
plant. You will find an article on and an 
illustration of it in our issue of September 
15th, 1906, p. 399.] 

Using nitrate of soda on lawn-—I send you 
herewith a sample of, as supplied to ine, nitrate of 
soda. Recently I obtained l cwt. for dressing my 
croquet-lawn, and, as a preliminary, dressed the four 
corners, which I may have over-dosed; the result 
being several patches where the Grass has turned 
quite brown. I have since dressed another piece of 
another lawn, at the rate of 5 lb. to the square rod. 
Result in this case, also some bare patches, but in a 
less degree. The nitrate of soda was used to follow 
basic slag, with which I dressed the croquet-lawn in 
the autumn. Is this sample genuine nitrate of soda, 
and what mistake, if any, in dressing have 1 made? 
Soil sandy, subsoil sand.—E. I’. S. 

[You have given far too heavy a dressing. 
To apply nitrate of soda to Grass at the 
rate of over 7 cwt. an acre is, to say the 
least, wasteful, and may very well have the 
unsatisfactory results you mention, particu¬ 
larly in a dry season. Three-quarters of a 
pound per rod would represent, roughly, 

1 cwt. per acre, ami if you applied 1-i lb. it 
would be quite sufficient in ordinary cases ; 
if more is needed, it should be given as a 
separate dressing.] 

Pliysalis rranclietti -I have a bed of Physalis 
Francnetti, 30 feet long by 4 feet in width, planted 
early last year. It is coming up very thickly. What 
treatment does it require to ensure good spikes of 
pods for next autumn? It did no good last year—tho 
growth was strong, but it did not bloom and set 
freely. I grow for sale, so want it to equal market 
stuff. The bed runs north and south in full glare of 
the sun. Your advice will oblige. — Anxious. 

[You have evidently made a mistake in 
planting too thickly, and you cannot exjx'cb 
the plant to do well if such is the case. On 
fairly good ground the plants quickly grow to 
a large size, and then the evil effects of over¬ 
crowding are soon seen. From 18 inches to 

2 feet Is quite close enough, and the position 
should be a sunny one, the roots then being 
well mulched during summer with any spare 
material, such as old Mushroom-manure, and 
well soaked several times with farmyard 
liquid. Moreover, after standing a season 
the growths should be thinned out, removing 
all the weakest. In the case of this plant it 
is advisable to lift and replant at the least 
every second year. Many people lift the 
plants every year, start them in frames, and, 
when growth is on the move, plant out early 
in April. The finest plants we have overseen 
were treated in this way. When asking 
queries, please read our rules as to Bending 
name and address, this latter being very im¬ 
portant when tendering advice as to the culti¬ 
vation of any plant.] 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


P. Scouleri is a small semi-shrubby plant 
of twiggy growth. Its large flowers are of a 
siaty-bluish-purple, and are arranged in short 
terminal racemes; they are not produced in 
great abundance, but, combined with the 
dwarf and compact growth of the plant, they 
have charms sufficiently distinct to render it 
worthy of cultivation. P. Scouleri may be 
readily increased in spring by cuttings of tho 
young shoots. 

Hybrids. —These are an important race of 


best forms of this group aro very effective. 
As regards culture, the most essential details 
are a good loamy soil, to which has been 
added plenty of good manure. If the 
finest spikes of these plants are required, 
plant them in rich, fairly holding soil dug to 
a depth of 2 feet. In such a soil they will 
luxuriate, and spikes of blossom fully 
18 inches high will be the reward. In a light 
and warm soil use plenty of cow-manure, this 
keeping tiiem cool throughout the heat of the 


Pentatemon Cobaja. From a photograph in Messrs. Wallace’s nursery at Colchester. 


late emnnier and autumn flowers. Their 
greatest worth is seldom attained, and only 
hero and thero do wo see beds or masses of 
their brilliant spikes of flowers. This is 
more particularly true of the gardens of 
Bouthern England, as these plants aro more 
often seen in the northern counties. Few 
plants can compare with these in the profu¬ 
sion of their spikes of scarlet, cardinal, blue, 
and violet or purple flowera^quite late iu the 
year. Beds on the Gras 


nvers quite late ib the 


summer. Where a large and effective dis¬ 
play is sought after, nothing can compare 
with autumn cuttings, secured, if possible, 
from a reserve batch of plants that are not 
allowed to flower to their greatest extent. 
The fresh young pieces root freely iii Sep¬ 
tember and October in a manure frame with 
declining heat, and if potted as soon as rooted 
will make plants large enough for 6-inch pots, 
and if stopped twice before planting time 
comes round in April or May will make nice 











GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


Aphil 13, 1907 


84 


CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

CHRYSANTHEMUMS TO FLOWER IN 
SIX INCH POTS. 

A system of culture that has become popu¬ 
lar in recent years is that of rooting the cut¬ 
tings late and flowering the plants in 6-inch 
pots. Under this system of culture hand¬ 
some plants, bearing large and attractive 
blooms, may be had with comparatively little 
trouble. Someone may ask, What are the 
advantages of the system? In the first place, | 
a. later jx’riod of propagation gives the old 
plants a longer period in which to recu¬ 
perate. ami there is, iu consequence, an 
abundant, supply of nice healthy cuttings. 
The cuttings, too, root more readily at this 
season than when the days are short and the 
light had. The grower of plants in G-inch 
pots can grow on his plants without delay 
from the period of rooting until they come 
into flower. Chrysanthemum growers whose 
glass structures are low-pitched, and who, in 
consequence, invariably experience a diffi¬ 
culty in housing plants grown in the orthodox 
fashion, will find the culture of Chrysanthe¬ 
mums in 6-inch pots valuable, as the plants 
can, when housed, be arranged so easily and 
effectively. 

March, April, and May are the months in 
which the propagation should be done. What 
are known as late-flowering kinds should first 
lie dealt with, and as types of such varieties 
T may mention Mine. R. Cadbury, Mine. 
Paolo Radaelli and its sport Mme. G. Rivol, 
Miss Kathleen Stoop, Silver Cloud, W. J. 
Crosslev. Mrs. W. Jinks, Reginald Vallis, 
W. Gooding, Algernon Davis, and Mine. R. 
Obertluir. The foregoing varieties will give 
a very good indication of the kind of Chrys¬ 
anthemum classed as late flowering, and cut¬ 
tings of these should be inserted forthwith. 
A fortnight later follow on with others, this 
time confining the selection to the mid-sea¬ 
son kinds. Plants of this description usually 
come into flower in November, and invari¬ 
ably in the earlier half of that month the 
flowers are at their best. A few typical sorts 
belonging to the mid-season section are the 
following : —F. S. Vallis, Bessie Godfrey, 
Mrs. Geo. Mileham, General llutton, Mrs. 
F. W. Vallis, J. H. Silsbury, Mrs. F. J. 
Duck, Mrs. R. C. Pulling, and its sport R. 
Kenyon, Mrs. W. Knox, Mrs. A. T. Miller, 
Jumbo, Mary Ann Pockctt, Magnificent, 
Lady Lennard, Henry Perkins, E. J. Brooks, 
Mrs. Eric Crossley, Chrv. Montigny, Miss 
Mildred Ware, Mrs. J. Dunn, and Duchess 
of Sutherland. Of course, the greater num¬ 
ber of Chrysanthemums flower in November, 
so that cuttings of these kinds should be 
inserted in the second half of April. The i 
semi-early or late October-flowering varieties 
are an interesting series, some of the better 
sorts being Miss Elsie Fulton, Mme. Gustavo 
Henri, Vi viand Morel and its several sports, 
Soleil d’Octobre and its bronze sport. 
Market Red, and others. These sorts, if 
propagated in early May, give most excellent 
results. 

The cuttings of the varieties intended for 
6-inch pots should be inserted in shallow 
boxes, using loam and leaf-mould in equal 
parts, and adding thereto plenty of coarse 
silver-sand. Dibble the cuttings in in rows, 
labelling each variety in turn before proceed¬ 
ing with the next one, to avoid confusion. 
Press the soil firmly at the base of each cut¬ 
ting, and when the box is filled, water in. 
When nicely rooted—and this process should 
be carried out in a greenhouse where the 
temperature can be maintained at about 
f>0 degs. by slightly warming the hot-water 
pipes—the cuttings may be potted up singly 
into 3-inch pots, and subsequently hardened 
off in a cold-frame. These, when well rooted, 
should be placed in 6-inch pots, potting 
firmly. Stand in a good open, sunny posi¬ 
tion all through the summer, and attend care¬ 
fully to the watering. Disbud to one bud on 
each stem, if large blooms are required. 

E. G. 


“The Hnfflish Flower Garden and Home 

Grounds ."—New Kdilion, revised, with description# 
of all the best plant#, tree#, and shrubs, their culture 
and arrangement, illustrated on icood. Cloth, medium, 
bvo., lbs.; post free, 15s. (id. 

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FERNS. 

HARDY FERNS FOR A TOWN GREEN¬ 
HOUSE. 

We often find, especially in town6, small 
greenhouses erected in spots very unsuitable 
in every way for plant growing, being in many 
instances quite shut olf from the stimulating 
influence of the sun's rays. When to this are 
added the darkening effects of lofty buildings 
iu close proximity thereto, it is evident that 
in such a structure the ordinary greenhouse 
flowering plants cannot be expected to thrive. 
To the other difficulties may be added the 
keeping out. of frost during the winter, for it. 
is seldom that any reliable provision is made 
for this purpose, the architect or builder 
being in most instances totally ignorant of 
plants and their requirements. 

To derive pleasure from such a greenhouse 
I know nothing to equal a small collection of 
hardy Ferns, as they enjoy the shade, and 
the winter’s frost gives no trouble. True, at 
this just-named season many of them are dor¬ 
mant, but some of an evergreen nature are 
available, and in the case of those that die 
down during the winter the sudden awakening 
into life, and the beautiful yet varied greens 
of the young fronds as they develop, form such 
a charming feature as to appeul to everyone. 
Another important matter is that the ma¬ 
jority of hardy Ferns are of simple cultural 
requirements, a great recommendation to the 
amateur with but a very limited knowledge 
of plants, and equally limited time, at his dis¬ 
posal to attend to them. Most of these Ferns 
thrive in ordinary potting compost, such as a 
mixturo of fibrous loam, peat, or leaf-mould, 
and sand, the whole being thoroughly incor- 
porated. Caro must ho taken that the pots 
employed are quite clean and effectually 
drained, and when this is the case, and the 
roots have taken possession of the new soil, 
water may lie freely given. Of course, for 
some little time after repotting the watering 
must be more carefully carried out, ns if the 
new soil gets too wot the roots do not pene¬ 
trate it, so readily as when it is iu an even 
state of moisture^ The liest. time for repot¬ 
ting is early in the spring, just before the new 
growth commences. A representative collec¬ 
tion of the more easily grown of the hardy 
Ferns may be kept in pots from 5 inches to 
8 inches in diameter. When largo enough 
annual repotting will be by no moans neces¬ 
sary ; indeed, they will often stand for years 
without being disturbed at the roots. Apart 
from the water given to the roots these Ferns 
are greatly benefited by a liberal sprinkling 
overhead, especially on the evening of a hot 
day. A free circulation of air is very helpful, 
as it prevents the fronds becoming drawn, and 
in this way they are stouter in texture than if 
kept close. The great advantage of this is 
that the foliage is much less liable to be at¬ 
tacked by thrips (practically the only insects 
that give any trouble), than when the fronds 
are weak and thin in texture. In winter, of 
course, less water will be required at the roots 
than is needed during the summer ; but oven 
when dormant the soil must, always be kept 
moist. In making a selection of Ferns suit¬ 
able for the treatment above detailed the 
choice, even if limited to British 6pecie« and 
their varieties, is an extensive one, there 
being— 

Adiantum eapillus-Vencris (Maidenhair 
Fern); Asplenium Adiantum-nigrum (Black 
Maiden hair Spleenwort) ; Asplenitim Triclio- 
manes (Black-stemmed Spleenwort) ; Athy- 
rium Filix-foemina (Lady Fern), with innu¬ 
merable varieties ; in fact, a large structure 
might be filled with varieties of this Fern 
alone ; Blechnum Spirant, (Hard Fern); Las- 
troa dilatata (Broad Buckler Fern) ; Lastrca 
Filix-mas (Male Fern), a strojig grower, with 
a great many variet ies ; Osinunda regalis 
(Royal Fern) ; Polypodium vulgare and 
varieties, the evergreen nature of these being 
greatly in their favour ; Potystichum angulare 
(Soft Shield Fern), with many beautiful 
varieties, all evergreen, or nearly so ; and 
Seolopendrium vulgare (Hart’s-tongue Fern), 
the typical kind of which has long, strap- 
shaped fronds, but there are also many beau¬ 
tiful crisped and crested varieties. All are 
evergreen, X- 


RAISING FERNS. 

This is the best time of the year to sow Fern 
spores, as they quickly commence to grow, 
and, if the seedlings are pricked off when 
necessary, they mako good progress without 
any check; whereas, if sown during the win¬ 
ter, the surface of the pot often becomes 
covered with confervas, which completely 
choke the growth of young Ferns. At the 
same time, should the sowing be delayed 
until far into the summer, many of the young 
plants may perish when winter sets in. By 
sowing now there is the whole of the. growing 
season before them, and consequently far 
less risk than at any other time. There are 
many different ways of raising Ferns from 
spores, but the following method gives as 
little trouble as any. The fronds are 
gathered a few days before being sown, and 
each sort is put into a piece of white paper 
and kept in a dry place. By so doing, the 
spores are shed in the paper, that is, if care 
is taken to select only fronds that are in the 
proper condition for gathering, as they must 
not be too green, neither must they bo taken 
after the spores have dropped. Whether pots 

, or pans are used for sowing, it is essential to 
drain them well, and then fill them to within 
half-an-inch of the surface with soil. A good 
compost for most Ferns consists of equal 
parts of peat, loam, and sand, tho whole 
being passed through a sieve with a quartor- 
of-an-ineh mesh, as (though rough soil is 
favoured by many) the young plants are so 
much more cosily pricked off when they are 
in a finer compost. The soil, having been 
made level on the surface, should have a good 
watering, and, while still wet, the spores 
must be sown thereon. The pots or pans 
may then be put either into a close propn 
gating ease, or a pane of glass may be laid 
over the top of each. Whichever is done, 
evaporation is to a great extent arrested, and 
consequently they will not- need any w ater for 
some time, often not until the young Ferns, 
in the shape of delicate, Moss-like growth, 
make their appearance. It. will bo often 
necessary to prick them off before the least 
sign of fronds are to be seen, and when the. 
young Ferns are in tho. shape of small, scale- 
like bodies, that, cover the surface of 
the pot with a cushion of green. 
When in this stage, they are liable to 
damp, and the pricking off is done to 
prevent decay. The soil and pots for this 
operation arc prepared the same as for sow¬ 
ing, except that, the soil is put in as lightly 
as possible, and is not watered. Then, with 
a pointed stick, a small tuft of the young 
seedlings is taken, and a gentle pressure with 
the forefinger of the left, hand will fix it, in 
its place. A space of about, half an inch 
should be loft between these little tuft«, ns 
they soon spread again after being removed 
to their new r quarters. When tho pot is 
finished, a good watering should be given 
through a fine rose, and, if possible, tho pots 
be returned to a close case for a little time. 
So treated, the plants will make rapid pro¬ 
gress, and when large enough may be potted 
off. Where small Ferns in quantity are re¬ 
quired, a good crop may be often obtained by 
scattering the spores on any surface that is 
likely to suit them, and that will not bo, dis¬ 
turbed for some time. This rough-and-ready 
method has one very great drawback, inas¬ 
much as the kinds raised in this way con¬ 
sist, for the most part, of a few different, 
Pterin, the well-known serrulata being 
largely represented, some Adiantums. and 
Gymnogramraas. Of the two last mentioned, 
a few kinds will crop up almost everywhere. 

In sowing Ferns, take care that the spores 
are not mixed, and unless special pains are 
taken, it is not easy to prevent such a thing 
happening. The sowing takes place at the 
opposite end of the house from that in which 
the pots are stood afterwards, and no more 
pots are brought forward on the bench for 
sowing than are needed for any one particu¬ 
lar kind, while the hands are wiped with a 
towel betwen the sowing of each sort. Un¬ 
less a very large number of any one kind is 
required, a couple of pots 5 inches in dia¬ 
meter w’ill he sufficient, as one pot of good, 
healthv seedlings will, at the first pricking 
off. fill half-a-dozen. It is a verv good plan 
to bake the soil used for raising Ferns, tu de¬ 
stroy nil vegetable iMe. 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



April 13. 1307 GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 85 


ROSES. 

ROSE PHARISAER (HYBRID TEA). 
This splendid Rose should certainly be 
found in the best, dozen hybrid Teas. Not 
from an exhibitor’s point of view, because 
he is content with such poor growers as 
Mildred Grant, or with such bad openers as 
Bessie Brown ; but as one of those Roses 
that will grow well, blossom well, and carry 
their blossoms on erect stems, and that possess 
a delicious perfume. The growth of Phari- 
eaer is nearly as strong as in Mine. Abel 
t'liatenay, and it has an even more upright 
growth than that popular sort,. The blooms 
are massive, having lino shell petals of a 
salmon-white tint, and the buds are very 
deep and tapering. Pharisaer is reputedly a 


SOME GOOD NOVELTIES FOR 
EXHIBITION. 

Of the forty or fifty new Roses annually an¬ 
nounced probably not more than one-fourth 
j could be considered lip to the British stan¬ 
dard of excellence as show Roses. Doubtless, 

1 many are very beautiful sorts, but they are 
either thin, semi-double flowers, or useful for 
| button-holes and garden decoration. Person- 
' ally, I welcome such as these, if distinct, but 
I there needs to be greater discrimination on 
the part of raisers as to what is really valu¬ 
able. It does not do to condemn a Rose from 
plants seen growing under glass upon, per¬ 
haps, over-propagated plants, neither is it 
safe to recommend a novelty until its value is 
proved outdoors. Most of the sorts I shall 
mention here I have seen under both condi¬ 
tions, and can, therefore, recommend them 


quisition to the Tea Roses. It will be a 
superior Rose, I believe, to Souvenir de 
Pierre Notting. The colour is deep yellow, 
with peach shading. It carries its flowers 
well above the foliage, and on standards 
should come very fine. I think we shall see 
this variety finely exhibited this year. 

Countess of Annesley (H.T.) is a de¬ 
lightful Rose, and must become extremely 
popular. The colour is rosy-salmon, crayoned 
with old gold. It is fragrant, and will be 
equally good as a show Rose as well as for 
pots. 

Lady Ashtown (H.T.) is a very large 
pointed flower, with wonderful petals of a 
silvery-pink shading with yellow base. In the 
autumn this Rose is good. 

Mrs. Myles Kennedy (Tea) is a reminder 
of that one-time popular favourite, Souvenir 



Rose Pharisaer. From a photograph in Messrs. IJ. R. Cant and Son’s nursery at Colchester. 


needling of Mrs. W. J. Grant, but I can 
hardly credit that, for it exhibits none of 
the weak habit of that well-known Rose. 
And yet there is a resemblance in the splen¬ 
did petals. 

I can confidently recommend this Rose as 
a good garden Rose, producing, as it does, 
annual shoots fully 2 feet in length, which 
"°uld enable ono to cut some fino long- 
fltenjmed specimens. It makes also an excel¬ 
lent standard, and for pot culture it comes 
w ell in the front rank. Its mixture of tints 
only hinders it being grown largely by 
market growers. As a seed-bearing sort it 
even rivals Mine. Abel Chatenay and 
Antoine Rivoire. I have gathered pods 
*hen ripe almost the size of small Pears. 
71'° Rose is of German origin, having been 
introduced by Herr Hinner in 1902. P. 

Digitized by GOOgk 


with every confidence as worthy of a trial. 
It is pretty generally conceded that the best, 
novelty of recent years is 

Dean Hole (H.T.).—It is one of those 
grand salmon-carmine flowers with fine form, 
very large, and with a splendid vigour. It 
will prove a useful Rose for all purposes. 

Wm. Shean (H.T.), perhaps, takes second 
honours, although it is a novelty only of last 
year. It is one of those immense Roses that 
bid fair to become plentiful, and for this I 
, shall be glad, because now such Roses posi¬ 
tively seem out of place among the ordinary 
varieties. It is, if anything, larger than 
J Florence Pemberton, and gave one the im- 
, pression of being a large Caroline Testont 
flushed with the deeper shades of Marie 
I Croibier. 

Mme. Constant Soutert.—A decided ac- 


d’Elisc Vardon. I welcome Mrs. Myles 
Kennedy, hoping that by its superior growth 
it will impart to the Tea Roses a lustre which 
shall help to keep this lovely group well to 
the front. 

.1. B. Clark (H.T.) has somewhat failed to 
hold its own. When I saw the gold medal 
bloom I thought I hod seen nothing so magni¬ 
ficent, but subsequent trinl.s have failed to 
give me the impression I then formed of it. 
However, it is early yet to judge. Perhaps 
this season will prove a better one for the 
variety. 

Hugh Dickson (H.P.) is one of the finest 
Hybrid Perpetual novelties we have had for 
some time. It is a colour wo want—rich 
crimson scarlet—and it is very sweet and a 
good grower. 

Dr. J. Campbell Hall (H.T.) has made 










86 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


AnuL 13, 1907 


many friends this last, season, and just now 
under glass its wonderfully fresh colour ap¬ 
peals to all. It is of a beautiful coral-rose 
tint, suffused with white. There is no Rose, 
to my knowledge, of its colour. The flower 
is rather flat, but of a beautiful form, and the 
foliage splendid. 

Senateur St. Romme (H.T.) will become 
a favourite. Its flowers are rosy-salmon, with 
a yellowish shading. The form is good and 
it opens well. 

Souvenir de Marie Zozoya (H.T.).— 
This is a flattish flower something like Mrs. 
Paul in form and colour, but flushed with 
that intense pink seen in Furbenkonigin. 
There is another Rose of more recent intro¬ 
duction by the same raisers. It is named 
Souvenir de Maria de Zayas, and is likely to 
be confounded with the first-named. Surely 
this could have been avoided. 

Mrs. Theodore Roosevelt (H.T.) has 
been introduced since 1903, but has only just 
now caught on. It is of American origin, 
having been raised by Messrs. E. G. Hill and 
Co., the raisers, of Richmond. I have known 
the flower since its introduction, and, I think, 
noted it in these pages. It is a really good 
thing of a creamy-white colour. The flowers 
are of wonderful texture, almost, like a 
Camellia, very full, and of perfect form. It 
should be in all collections. 

Oberhofgartner Terrs (H.T.) has, as it 
were, only just been discovered, although five 
years old. It is a wonderfully deep bloom, 
with conical form. The colour is liable to 
deaden a little, as Mildred Grant will occa¬ 
sionally ; then it is not good, but. if caught 
right it is a good staying flower. 

C. J. Grahame (H.T.) is a Rose of very 
vivid colour—a sort of orange-crimson. It is 
of excellent form, with a good erect habit, 
and is a colour much desired in this group. 
It may scarcely be full enough for hot 
weather, but should prove a grand cool sea¬ 
son Rose. It has growth something like 
Ulrich Brunner, only a paler green. 

Countess of Derby (H.T.) is one of those 
Roses that possess fine guard petals. The 
centre of the flower reminds one of Anna 
Ollivier. It is very free and grand under 
glass. 

Celia is one of those very full Roses that 
will prove valuable to an exhibitor on a hot 
day. It is very disappointing after a long 
railway journey to open one’s box of blooms 
and find so many of them showing the eye. 
Celia will be proof against this. It is a lovely 
fresh satiny pink bloom, with reflexed edges. 

Dora (H.T.), another very fine novelty, is, 
perhaps, somewhat hollow-centred, but when 
about half open it is fine. The colour is pale 
peach. 

Queen of Spain (H.T.) should have been 
placed nearly first. It is, w ithout doubt, one 
of the best half-dozen new Roses of recent 
years. The build of the flower is perfect, 
with that high centre so dear to the heart of 
exhibitors. It is a Rose every exhibitor must 
have, and they will do well to bud it this sum¬ 
mer, as I should say it will come very fine 
from maiden plants. The colour is pale 
peach, with yellowish shadings. 

Earl of Warwick (H.T.) has now an 
established reputation, and will soon become 
as general a favourite as Mme. Abel 
Chatenay. The petals are huge, and so also 
nre the blossoms, and I doubt if there is 
another Rose so fine in the autumn. The 
salmon and other tints are. if anything, more 
lovely just then than in the summer. 

Joseph Hill (H.T.) is one of the few of 
Fernet Ducher’s Roses that are good enough 
for exhibition, and yet his Roses are more 
popular than any other Roses grown. It is a 
splendid flower, like a Souvenir de President 
Carnot, with a rich orange suffusion. It is 
an excellent garden Rose, and worth growing 
by the hundred. 

‘Comtksse DE Saxe (Tea) has been recently 
noted in these pages. It. should lx? added to 
all up-to-date collections of show Roses. 

Grohsherzogin Alexandra is said to 
surpass Kaiserin Augusta Victoria. If so, it 
will be a beauty. I have not yet seen a really 
good flower, but that is hardly to be wondered 
at when cut from very small plants. 

Baronin Armgard Von Biel (H.T.) is 
very promising. °* the colour of La 

Digitized by GOUgfe 


France—a fine solid flower of good tex¬ 
ture. Being raised from Kaiserin Augusta 
Victoria, it should prove valuable. 

Countess of Gosford (H.T.) is of beauti¬ 
ful colouring—salmon-pink and saffron yel¬ 
low'. It is a glorious garden Rose, and, I be¬ 
lieve, we shall find it in show boxes, but not 
very enduring, the blooms being somewhat 
thin. 

Direcktor W. Cordeb (H.T.) is a creamy- 
white flower with yellowish centre. The 
blooms are largo, of excellent form, with firm, 
fleshy petals. 

Lady Rosbmore (H.T.) is of a very rich 
claret-red colour, and of beautiful shape. It 
is not very large, but at times good enough 
for exhibition. It. is an acquisition by reason 
of its colour. It reminds me somewhat of 
Monsieur Desir, a Rose that is not grown 
nearly so much as it deserves to be. 

Betty (H.T.) is exquisite in colouring, hut 
thin, and I am afraid it must be relegated to 
the garden Roses—not that it will suffer from 
this ; rather will it have greater popularity. 
The colouring is charming ; it seems to be 
a sort of golden Mrs. W. J. Grant. The 
petals are immense, and all gardens should 
possess a plant of Betty. 

Dr. Wm. Gordon (H.P.) is a fine bold 
flower of splendid build. I believe it will be¬ 
come a useful show r flower, if it does not clash 
too much with Mme. Gabriel Luizet. As 1 
have seen it, the Rose is perfectly distinct 
from all others, and of immense size. 

Rosa. 


HYBRID PERPETUAL ROSES AS WALL 
CLIMBERS. 

It always seems to me a great pity that we 
are obliged to prune away so much of the 
growth of these beautiful Roses when grown 
as ordinary bush plants. The group con¬ 
tains so many really excellent fast growing 
sorts and so brilliant in colour, and, in most 
eases, so delightfully fragrant, that they are 
well adapted to plant against w alls of 8 feet to 
10 feet in height. The quality of blossom 
will not be equal to that from plants re¬ 
stricted to three or four growths, but it will 
be good, and certainly very effective for the 
time the plants are in flower. To make the 
plantation a success the borders must be care¬ 
fully prepared, affording the plants a good 
deep root run of rich soil, which will enable 
the Roses to withstand the severe ordeal of a 
hot season. A mulching of old hot-bed 
manure should be afforded in May, and the 
plants liberally watered twice a week during 
June and July. 

In commencing, it is well to prune one or 
two of the growths rather severely, retaining 
one or two full length to assist root action. 
I prefer for this work plants on the seedling 
Brier, the long tapering roots diving well 
down into the subsoil are thus enabled to 
supply the plants’ requirements when the 
weather is very hot, and there is then less 
mildew' apparent owing to unchecked growth. 
Own-root plants I would prefer to budded 
plants, if procurable, and these may some¬ 
times be obtained in pots from our leading 
Rose growers. Where such pot plants are 
available, the present time is a very suitable 
one to plant. Any spaces between other 
climbing Roses of greater vigour would be 
suitable for these Hybrid Perpetuals, for if 
only one or two growths are allowed, these 
will blossom and afford the quality, brilliant 
colour, and fragrance often lacking upon walls 
used for the climbing Tea and Noisette Roses. 

As to varieties, some of the oldest are the 
best. How' can one surpass that grand old 
crimson, Senateur Vaisse, or the king of 
crimsons, Charles Lefebvre? Mrs. John 
Laing would be an admirable sort to grow, 
and Heinrich Schulthcis for a deep rose-pink. 
Ulrich Brunner would have to he grown, as 
would Mme. Isaac Pereire, one of the 
grandest of garden Roses, growing as well 
amid the smoke and dust of large towns as in 
the purer country air. Maharajah would look 
well with its huge fiery semi double blossoms. 
There are numbers of others ; in fact, almost 
the whole group, for I have seen Baroness 
Rothschild, one of our moderate growers, 
make quite a huge plant when against a wall. 
I should like to put in a word for that de¬ 


liciously fragrant Rose, La France, for wall 
culture. If not already so planted, I would 
say try it. You will not complain of poor 
ball-shaped blossoms refusing to open, as is 
so often the case with this Rose when grown 
as a bush. Its half China Rose-like nature 
fits it specially for wall culture, and I should 
not be over-anxious for the climbing variety 
when I could get the ordinary kind to cover 
a 5 feet or 6 feet wall, which it will do if 
provided with a liberal diet. 

Rosa. 


MANURING ROSES GROWN AS 
SHRUBS. 

It is gratifying to find the general public 
are alive to the possibilities of the many 
splendid Roses that lend themselves to a 
shrub-like growth, hut the danger is, that, 
beyond the initial manuring when planting, 
such bushes become neglected. This is a mis¬ 
take, for nothing repays one more for eare 
and attention than these splendid Roses. 
What a wealth of blossom we may have if 
the plants receive a liberal diet ! Give them 
plenty of good farmyard manure during win¬ 
ter, and, if not already given, it is not too 
late even now. Fork it well beneath the soil, 
or, if Grass be nearly up to the plant, re¬ 
move the Grass and put manure beneath. 
It is best to lenve a space of at least 15 inches 
from the stem of the Rose quite clear of 
Grass or other growth, and this affords an 
opportunity of giving during the summer 
liquid-manure, which the plants much appre¬ 
ciate. With old specimens wc usually drive 
a crowbar down at intervals of a foot or so, 
then pour the liquid into the holes, refilling 
them several times. It is wonderful how 
these fine bushes respond to this .attention. 

Some of the newer Roses w-elL adapted for 
culture as single shrubs are: Maharajah, 
Morgenroth, J. B. Clark, Conrad F. Meyer. 
Rose a la Parfum de l’Hay, Parkfeur, Grass 
an Zabern, Sinica Anemone, Trier, Rubin, 
Mrs. F. W. Flight, Wedding Bells. Waltham 
Bride, Nymph, Lady Curzon, Wallflower, 
Framjois Crousse, Virginie Demont Breton. 
Lady Waterlow, Mme. Hector Leuilliot, 
Nance Christy, and Mrs. O. G. Orpen. 
Plant them in a well-prepared station, and 
leave them almost untouched the first year, 
and even in subsequent years little pruning 
will he needed. Where pot-plants are avail¬ 
able it is not too late to plant this year. 

” Rosa. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Bose shoots injured. I erniose two shoots rut 
oil two of my Rose-bushes. When cut there was a 
brown juice Inside, and I had to keep pruning the 
shoot lower mid lower till I got rid of it. One is 
Antoine ltivoire and the other Souvenir de President 
Carnot. All my other Roses are as healthy as pos¬ 
sible; but neither of these trees looks healthy, "ill 
you kindly answer in your paper if I can do anything 
for it and if it is likely to spread?—M. M. 

[The Rose-shoots had been bored by one of 
several kinds of little solitary wasps, which 
make their nests in the stems of Roses or 
Brambles. They usually make use of a shoot 
or stem which has been broken or cut off. 
They remove the pith and then fill the stem 
with their grubs and the necessary amount uf 
food for them. The food consists of various 
small insects, many of which are injurious to 
plants, so that they really are. of use in gar¬ 
dens. The steins only contained the harder 
portions of the insects, which the grubs were 
unable to consume. G. S. 8.] 

Maggots on Roses. It is not too soon to 
be on the look out. for these are, perhaps, 
the greatest pests the Rose has to contend 
with. Upon pot plants this year we have 
very successfully subdued the pest by search¬ 
ing diligently the old wood for any signs of 
the eggs, which are soon detected under tlio 
many little nooks and crannies which alfbund 
upon a Rose-bush. Wall plants arc already 
advancing, and no time should he lost in look¬ 
ing these over also, for it. is upon the old 
growths that the eggs will lx; found. 01 
course, where hard pruning, such as exhibi¬ 
tors carry out. is resorted to, the trouble from 
insect pests is considerably minimised, but it 
is upon plants that are sparingly pruned from 
which the insect trouble is most to be feared. 

(JRP^RSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATID. 


87 


April 13 . 1307 


INDOOR PLANT& 

CYCLAMEN PERSICUM AT READING. 
Probably among no plants during the last 
quarter of a century has there been greater 
improvement than in the Persian Cyclamen. 
This is very noticeable in the giant-flowered 
types, where we find size of blossom, good 
form, compactness, and freedom of flowering, 
and. in not a few instances, beautifully 
marbled leafage, which renders these varie¬ 
ties worthy of consideration, even from that 
point alone. But whilst we look upon the pre¬ 
sent high state of excellence as seen in the 
Cyclamen of to-day and call to mind the types 
of years ago, we realise that in size, perhaps, 
the limit has probably been reached, and that 
we must look for improvements in other 
directions, as, for example, new or improved 
shades of colour. We are not overlooking for 
the moment the fact that in some of the more 


blossoms well above the leaves, invests the 
plants with one of the chief attributes of the 
race—their exceeding value as pot-plants 
when well grown. The entire collection of 
Cyclamens as grown at Heading is contained 
in several spacious glass-houses, the plants 
arranged on close-bottomed stages well up to 
the light. Grown under these conditions 
from first to last, with free air below the 
stages, in addition to perfect ventilation over¬ 
head, it is small wonder that we see sturdy- 
looking examples in their thousands, a picture 
of health and wealth of blossom. The reason 
for these thousands of plants is the produc¬ 
tion of seeds, for which there is ever a big 
demand. Here, as in other directions, ex¬ 
perience has shown that gigantic specimens 
possess no greater merit in seed production 
than larger numbers of moderately-sized 
plants, and it is these latter that are most 
favoured. In the strain which the Messrs. 
Sutton grow as the “Giant,” there arc many 


marked foliage, is equally good and choice in 
its way, though for intense colouring Vulcan, 
with blood-crimson-coloured flowers, sur¬ 
passes all. The model-like character of the 
plant as a whole, with hundreds of flowers of 
one colour, appealing to one by reason of 
their purity or intensely brilliant, tones of 
colour, is a sight not easily forgotten. 

Many good gardeners grow these Cyclamens 
with much success, but the amateur only 
rarely so. We, therefore, append a few 
brief cultural directions for the general 
guidance of our readers. The chief cultural 
errors are close and too damp surroundings, 
too much artificial heat, and far too rich soil. 
The combined result of these is seen in excep¬ 
tionally long leaf stalks, unusual grossness of 
the leaf blades, etc. Where these exist, the 
maturing and concentration of the forces in 
the corm can hardly ensue, hence a well- 
balanced head of shapely blossoms is well 
nigh impossible. Flowering examples of the 



Cyclamen Giant White. From a photograph in Messrs. Sutton and Sons’ nursery at Reading. 


brilliantly coloured forms the giant size of the j 
finest whites has not yet been reached, and, ' 
what is more, is not expected to be reached 
other than by easy stages. In the Cyclamen 
generally this has been very noticeable, and 
improvements by leaps and bounds are ex¬ 
tremely rare. One thing we note with no 
little satisfaction is the apparently small ten- 
dency to doubling ill these flowers. Extra 
I*tafs occur, it is true, but the seeds from 
such flowers do not show’ any marked inclina¬ 
tion to produce double flowers, and, from the 
point of view of grace, elegance, and general 
appearance, we hope the Cyclamen will long 
remain in its present form. 

In looking through the vast array of well- 
grown plants at Reading recently, we could 
not fail to notice the sturdy character of the 
leafage in the plants as a whole, the compara¬ 
tive shortness of the leaf stalks, and the 
feather-like texture of the leaf blades. To 1 
such good points has to be added a fine 
length of flower-stalk, which, carrying the I 

Google 


fine and distinct colours. That shown in the 
illustration accompanying these notes is an 
example of “The Giant White,” a solid¬ 
looking flower of the largest size and of 
great purity. Then we have Cherry-Red, a 
very brilliant flower, Giant Pink and Rose, 
Improved Giant Pink, a shapely and refined 
flower, in which the pervading tone is rather 
that of salmon-pink. Then there is the white 
and crimson, a noble flower, in whicli the 
pure white and crimson base are each well 
defined, thus rendering it quite a conspicuous 
variety. Giant Crimson is virtually a counter¬ 
part of the white, and in striking contrast 
to it. Others of superior merit are W r hite 
Butterfly, very largo and free flowering, with 
beautifully marbled leafage. Salmon Queen, 
pink, is, without doubt, the choicest bit of 
colour in the pink and kindred shades, and 
commands the attention of all, the good 
habit and handsomely marked foliage but en¬ 
hancing the value of this choice kind. 
Phoenix, bright cherry-crimson, with well- 


size represented by the illustration require 
to be about eighteen months old, and a steady, 
uniform treatment is necessary throughout. 
The seeds should be sown in August or Sep¬ 
tember for making plants of the size repre¬ 
sented, and in December and January for 
smaller examples. The seeds take from a 
month to six weeks before they vegetate, and 
must not be hurried by being placed in a 
strong heat. A temperature ranging between 
50 degs. and 60 degs. is ample. The seeds, 
being of large size, are easily handled sepa¬ 
rately, and by so doing the seedlings may re¬ 
main a longer time in the seed-pans. The 
soil should be very sandy loam, with a sixth 
part of leaf soil added. Keep the seed pans 
close to the glass, and to avoid a too rapid 
evaporation some shading, as paper or dark¬ 
ened glass, should be given. A good time to 
pot the seedlings into small pots is when the 
second leaf is appearing. The soil may be 
the same as before, with the addition of a 
little well-decayed maniire. Pot moderately 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


Ulull 








88 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


April 13, 1907 


firm, keeping the young corm or bulb well in 
sight on the surface, and placing the young 
plants within a few inches of the glass. If 
the amateur, in his endeavour to follow this 
advice, places his plants on a shelf, the north 
or north-east side of the house should l>e 
selected, the plants being daily watched to 
prevent their becoming too dry. During these 
early stages the temperature should not ex¬ 
ceed 50 degs. by artificial heat, and it will be 
better if five degrees less than this. For the 
rest the potting-on should be done as re¬ 
quired, the plants receiving a shift to 3 inch 
pots in March or April, and to 5 inch pots in 
June or earlier, according to progress. 

Throughout, from first to last, the grower 
must remember that a steady uniform tem- 
]H*rature should be maintained, avoiding any¬ 
thing approaching closeness or stuffiness. 
Plants grown in deep, moist pits far away from 
the glass can never make compact examples, 
or even good flowering ones. The soil for the 
final potting may be rougher, a slight addi¬ 
tion of soot, and a 5-inch potful of bone-meal 
to each barrowful of soil, being of service. 
Weak liquid cow-manure and soot-water may 
also be given when the buds are forming, and 
from this time onwards to the flowering. It 
is important that, a light temporary shade be 
given the plants in hot weather, coupled with 
abundance of air. At the same time, shad¬ 
ings of a permanent character are had, and 
should be avoided. 

By closely following the above instructions 
the amateur may succeed in growing one of 
the most valuable of winter-flowering plants, 
and one also of more than ordinary value for 
the sitting room and the conservatory. 

E. H. Jenkins. 

NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Begonias, tuberous. -To start my Begonias 1 
put bulbs in pots, with good loam and some rich com¬ 
post and sand, and plunge in a hotbed. Ought I to 
water with water or liquid-manure much diluted, or 
not water at all till the green leaves appear?— 
GEORGINA. 

[There is no need to plunge in a hot-bed. 
Stand the pots on tv cool ash bottom in a cold- 
frame. keeping the light on until the plants 
have begun to grow freely, when more air 
may be admitted. Water very carefully for a 
time, as if the soil becomes loo wet before 
the roots arc working in the fresh soil the 
corms will rot. Do not use liquid-manure un¬ 
til you get the plants into their flowering 
pots, and then only feed them when the pots 
nre quite filled with roots.] 

Cyclamens — I have a number of Cyclamen plants, 
with corms of from 1 Inch to \ inch diameter, which 1 
have just potted in small 60 pots. Will you kindly 
give me directions for their treatment during the 
coming summer in order to obtain a display of flowers 
for the ensuing season for blooming?*-A. C. It. 

[The best position for the plants all through 
the summer is on the light open stages in 
low span-roofed houses, or on temporary 
shelves fixed fairly close to the roof glass. In 
the latter position they are liable to dry up 
rapidly, and the roots are cheeked, so exami¬ 
nation of the pots twice daily in summer is 
imperative. The shift into the flowering 
pots may take place at any time between the 
middle of July and the end of September—all, 
of course, depending on whether the bulbs 
are early or late. See article on page 87.] 

Arum Little Gem. — In Gardening, November 4th. 
1905, there was an article, by Mr. E. II. Jenkins, on 
growing Arum Lilies, which I have followed with the 
very greatest success; but the Little Gem Arums 
under the same treatment, temperature, soil, posi¬ 
tion, etc., have scarcely bloomed at all. Would you 
kindly tell me how I should manage them, or is the 
idea that they do not bloom well correct?—M. E. C. 

[The dwarf variety of the Arum Lily known 
as Little Gem is scarcely so trustworthy in 
flowering as the larger growing forms ; still, 
if a reasonable amount of care he taken, it 
may he flowered in a fairly satisfactory man¬ 
ner. This small growing kind is extremely 
prolific in offsets, which are pushed up in 
such numbers as to form quite a dense mass 
or clump. When this happens, blooms will 
be but few and far between, unless these off¬ 
sets are continually removed, thus throwing 
the vigour of the plant into the one crown. 
As you subject your Arums to the drying off 
process (which is, we think, by far the best), 
the plants of Little Gem should be turned 
outside with the others, and subjected to the 
same treatment. Then, in August, when the 
crowns are shnkgirtcompletely idear of the 

Digitized by GOUgle 


old soil, every hud except the central one 
i should he rubbed off, and the corms potted 
; without further delay. Pots from 4 inches 
; to 5 inches in diameter are quite large enough 
for this sniall-growing variety, aud, if all the 
! latent eyes are removed before potting, the 
I suckers are not likely to give any trouble. 

| These buds that are removed may, if it is de¬ 
sired to increase the stock, he laid in boxes 
! or pans of good soil, or they can be potted 
| singly into small pots.] 

Fragrance in pot plants.— A word just 
! now in reference to the desirability of having 
in the greenhouse some plants during the 
coming summer which can be taken into the 
house, because of the fragrance they afford, 
may he opportune, now that many are think¬ 
ing what to grow. There are numbers of 
| plants that cannot he excluded from the 
greenhouse, by reason of their beautiful blos¬ 
soms ; hut at the same time, in every garden 
some consideration should be shown for other 
things, the attractiveness oF which lies chiefly 
in tlieir fragrance. Such are the Helio¬ 
tropes, Musk, Liliums like auratum, and 
plants valued because of the pungent and 
pleasing aroma of their foliage, like the 
Lemon-scented Verbena (Aloysia citriodora) 
and the Oak leaved Pelargonium. Mignon¬ 
ette is a favourite garden plant, yet some 
people forget to sow a few seeds and retain 
a couple of plants for blooming in a pot in¬ 
doors.—' WOODBA8TWICK. 

Primula verticillata.— One frequently 
wonders why this lovely yellow' flowered and 
fragrant Primrose is not more generally 
grown. The white powdered leafage is ever 
1 conspicuous hv reason of its exceptional 
mealiness, and, apart from this, the plant, 
when in flower, possesses a pronounced Prim- 
! rose, or, perhaps, Cowslip like fragrance that 
is probably unique. Two or three plants in 
i the sitting-room will he ample to tell of its 
presence there, and, indeed, a solitary plant 
will not escape notice altogether, from the 
same cause. The species is just as easily 
grown as the Chinese Primula, and may be 
given identical treatment all through. 

I Seeds of the plant sown now will make fine 
flowering examples a year hence, and, if 
grown on briskly and brought into 6 inch 
pots, by July next somo three or four spikes 
of flowers will be produced upon each plant. 
Each spike of flowers is rnado up of three or 
more whorls or tiers of blossoms. When in 
flower, the plant is about 9 inches high, and, 
if once grown, will not bo hurriedly lost 
sight of or discarded.—E. J. 

Begonia Cloire de Lorraine. -As the time 
has now arrived for making a start with 
Begonia Gloiro de Lorraine and its sport*, 
the following remarks as to my mode of cul¬ 
ture may, I liope, benefit some of the readers 
of this useful paper. In the first place, 
choose a few' of the strongest and fully 
matured leaves, retaining the leaf stalk about 
an inch and a-half long, then insert them into 
Cocoa-nut fibre where there is a nice bottom- 
heat. Do not cover them with glass, as they 
would quickly damp off ; the only thing to 
guard against is allowing them to get dry. 
Shade from strong sunshine when the young 
growths are well above the fibre, lift them 
carefully, and pot them into 3-inch pots, 
using nice fibrous loam, two parts to one of 
leaf-mould, with sand and charcoal. After 
potting place them in a nice growing tem¬ 
perature of 60 degs. or 65 dege., giving them 
i a watering to settle the soil, always using the 
water at the same temperature as the house, 
but guard against giving too much, as the 
roots are so delicate that they aro easily 
killed if water is given when not required. I 
find they grow and make better plants if 
kept on the dry side, never allowing them to 
suffer at any time. Pinch off all flowers 
that may appear from time to time, until 
about six weeks before they are wanted in 
flower. Before giving the final potting into 
5-inch or 6-incli pots make sure that they 
have already filled the 3-inch pots with roots. 
The compost used may be the same as for the 
first potting, only in a rougher state with 
a little well-rotted stable manure, dried and 
well-broken down. A few' plants in 5-inch 
pots ore very valuable for table decoration. 
Nothing can surpass the beautiful pink 
variety for that kind of work. I use onp; 


small stake in the centre, and sling the ehoot** 
to it with a thin thread. I think the plants 
are more graceful than if a number of stakes 
is used to each plant. Before removing them 
to their flowering quarters, which will t»e 
about October, gradually reduce the tempera¬ 
ture so that they may be less liable to feeL 
the change. I have had plants grown as 
above recommended measuring 2 feet from 
the rim of the pot and 5 feet in circumfer¬ 
ence, and flowering from October until Sep¬ 
tember of the next year.*-A Gardener. 

Arum Lilies.- One of the most useful 
plants that come into full beauty in the 
spring in the greenhouse is the Arum Lily. 
Everyone who has a greenhouse ought t«» 
grow at least one or two specimens, because 
their decorative value is such that they may 
he brought into requisition in a variety of 
ways. What is of great importance, to the 
amateur, at least, is that Arums are not at 
all difficult to grow ; indeed, they are very 
easy to deal with, and a temperate-house, 
with plain living in the matter of soil, is all 
they require. Anyone who takes an interest 
in the decoration of a room, or who, for in¬ 
stance, undertakes to lend plants occasion¬ 
ally for church adornment, will acknowledge 
that few are more imposing and graceful than 
Arum Lilies when the pure white spat lies 
emerge through leaves of deepest green. 
Much may be done to present them in good 
condition, both as regards foliage and flowers, 
by using a little old soot in the water two or 
llirce times a week, hut it must he old soot.— 
W. F. D. _ 

GARDEN PESTS AND FRIEND3* 

NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Insects on Apple tree bark. 1 wml 

a piece of Apple-tree hark (on a piece of cork 
wrapped up inside) with a number of chrysalides 
<? eggs) on it. Can you toil me what they are? I 
suspect Ainrriran-blignt.--A. 11. H. 

[The objects oil the piece of Apple-bark 
are the eggs, 1 believe, of one of the aphides, 
but not of the Ainerican-blight. Unfortu¬ 
nately, the eggs of insects are, in the majority 
of cases, not noticed, on account of their 
small size, and in many instances it is not 
known where they may be found. In cases 
where insects aro not in the egg state during 
the winter, it is almost impossible to destroy 
them, as the eggs are so often laid in buds or 
within the leaves or stems of plants. The 
winter eggs on fruit-trees may often be 
killed by a caustic wash, but not always, for 
some eggs have a great vitality, and it is 
difficult to lx* quite sure that all parts of the 
trees have been reached by the insecticide.— 
G. S. S.] 

The snail slug (Testaeella haliotidca. I am 
sending you a specimen, which I am told is the slug- 
snaij. Is it? And. if so, is it certain that it is a 
friend, not a foe, to the gardener? I have had two 
or three specimens for a week or more In a t»ox with 
some other slugs and a worm and some vegetable 
matter; hut I do not see any result. Of course, some 
of the vegetable was eaten; but that might be by the 
slugs. 1 cannot see that the slugs have been eaten. - 
A. II. II. 

[The creature you sent is a specimen of the 
slug snail, or, more correctly, the snail-slug 
(Testaeella haliotidea). It is a friend to the 
gardener, inasmuch as it feeds on earth¬ 
worms and not on vegetable matter ; hut 
whether killing earthworms is a virtue or 
not is a matter about which there are two 
opinions, as much depends upon where the 
worm is. The snail-slug, I believe, is by no 
means sluggish when hunting a worm under¬ 
ground and following it through its galleries. 
It feeds at night, burying itself in the ground 
during the day. It has the power of so 
elongating its body that it is able to make 
its way through the burrow of a worm. It is 
said that it eats other slugs and snails, and 
also individuals of its own species, but that 
it will not eat dead animals or even freshly 
killed worms. It has the power of remain¬ 
ing without food for a considerable time, 
and goes down quite deep into the ground 
during the winter. When sending any notes, 
kindly read our rules as to writing on one 
side of the paper only. G. S. S.] 

Index to Volume XXVIII.— The binding cover* 
(price Is. 6d. each, post free. Is Pd.) and Index (3d . 
post free, for Volume XXVIII. are now ready, 

and may he had of all newsagents, or of the Pub¬ 
lisher",' post free, !f8. for the two. 





April 13, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


89 



ORCHIDS. 

CYMBIDIUM SANDERI. 

This is a new and handsome Cymbidium 
from Annam, where it was found by M. 
Micholitz in 1894. It received a first-class 
certificate from the Orchid committee of the 
Royal Horticultural Society when shown by 
Messrs. Sander and Sons, of St. Albans, on 
the 14th of February, 1905. It bears, as may 
be seen by the illustration we give to-day, 
erect flower-spikes, udiich carry several 
flowers—varying from three to seven, each 
about. inches across. The colour is white, 
slightly tinged with pink, and having a few 
small purple spots at the base of the petals. 
The lip is broad and almost equally three 
lobed, tho side lobes folded towards the 
column, and white, beautifully spotted with 


stronger kinds are 60 easy to grow that rea¬ 
sonable extremes of heat and cold do not 
affect them when once at home in their 
quarters. 

Odontoglossum crispum — After many attempts 
to prow these I arn very dissatisfied, and would like 
to know whether those who spend large sums on 
fancy varieties do well with them after the first few 
years after importation? 1 know of nothing to blame J 
in the small house where my thirty to forty plants are 1 
kept. They live, and a few bloom fairly regularly. I 
Hut the majority make no headway; small plants 
bought fifteen years ago, when I first started, being I 
to-day no larger than then, hardly any ever throw- | 
ing up a spike. A freshly-imported specimen turned 
out a Kuckcrianum, as 1 was told. It bloomed the 
second year, but since then only sends up a spike at 
rare intervals. Plants which at first had two or three ; 
blossoms, never produce anything more, and some i 
years nothing. A traveller from one of the best firms j 
told me he had seldom seen more healthy growths. I 
I am at a loss to know whether the whole system of 
artificial treatment is not a mere waste of money, I 


Part of a flower-spike of Cymbidium Sanderi. 


rosy-purple over the greater part of the 
surface. 

Culture. —The Cymbidiunis thrive best in 
ordinary flower puts filled to about one third 
with l»rokon crocks. Being strong growers 
with fleshy roots, they require ample pot- 
room. anti, for » compost, equal parts of 
fibrous peat arid turfy yellow loam, with a 
sprinkling of sand and Sphagnum Moss. They 
need «. copious supply of soft water while 
growing, aiul the stronger kinds are liel|>cd at 
that season by occasional waterings of very 
weak liquid-manure. All the kinds in culti¬ 
vation are evergreen, and do not need drying 
off when not actively growing, though a less 
supply of water at the roots should then be 
given- An advantage of giving fairly large 
pots is that the plants do not require repot¬ 
ting for several years, and flower all the bet¬ 
ter for growing undisturbed. A warm green¬ 
house (55 degs. to 65 degs. Fahr.) or con¬ 
servatory, or what is^cnjtecl the intermediate 
Orchid house, suits tAese nfyits ljeft| Jj>t the 


and prolonged death, the certain end, only a question 
of time?—D iscouraged. 

[It is well-known amongst Orchid-growers 
generally particularly those who make a 
s|>cciality of the cultivation of Odontoglossum 
crispum—that the fancy varieties, which fetch 
such high prices under favourable cultural 
conditions, do thrive well formally years after 
importation. For instance. O. crispum Cook- 
soni, a beautiful and still valuable variety, 
was exhibited, and received a first class cer¬ 
tificate, at the great Orchid conference at 
South Kensington, in the year 1885. There 
are, at the present time, plants of this variety 
in more Ilian one collection, and which are in 
excellent condition. There are numerous 
other varieties which we could mention as 
being still in robust health after many years 
of careful cultivation. It is impossible for 
us, not knowing under what conditions your 
plants are cultivated, to state exactly why 
they make no headway and fail to bloom satis¬ 
factorily.] 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 

HOW FLOWERING SHRUBS HAVE 
WINTERED IN SUSSEX. 

Now that severe frost has gone we may 
examine our choice shrubs and note how they 
have passed through the winter. Many that 
were unprotected will, doubtless, have suf¬ 
fered in exposed situations, especially in the 
valleys where there is running water, and 
where the soil is cold and retentive. So far, 
I have not been able to detect much damage 
hero, though a few of the very tender things 
look a little rusty from the effects of the very 
rough cold east winds we experienced. 
Camellias do not seem to have suffered in tho 
least, so far as one can judge at present, 
though no protection of any kind was afforded 
them. Nandina domestica, considered by 
some to be a tender 
plant, looks quite 
happy, its large, 
deeply cut foliage 
having assumed a 
beautiful crimson 
hue, thus forming a 
fine contrast to the 
green, shining foli¬ 
age close by. The 
Veronicas seem to 
have suffered more 
than anything else. 
This is, no doubt, 
due to their growing 
so late in the au¬ 
tumn. Many of these 
were in full flower 
until the middle of 
October, and that 
month being so very 
wet caused the 
growth to bo sappy. 
Where these plants 
arc liable to suffer 
it is a good plan to 
insert a batch of cut¬ 
tings in a cold-frame 
in the autumn, and 
then, should those 
outside suffer, there 
will he others to take 
their place. 

None of the newer 
shrubs seem to have 
suffered from the 
winter’s blasts. 
Caesalpinia japonica 
is one of those that 
had not had a tho¬ 
rough test, but, so 
far, it does not seem 
to have suffered the 
least injury. Those 
who have not grown 
this plant will find it 
very attractive when 
in bloom. Eucryphia 
pinnatifolia is quite 
distinct from any¬ 
thing wo have here. 
It, flowered beauti¬ 
fully last August, 
and was very attrac¬ 
tive then, as there 
are not many shrubs which bloom at that time 
of the year. It. is strange that one so seldom 
sees it grown. St-yrax Obassia is another shrub 
that one is pleased to find has withstood the 
winter so well, as it is well worthy of a place 
in all collections. I was hoping some of the 
Acacias would have proved hardy, but all 
seem to have died. 1 left a collection out on 
purpose to try them, as they survived the 
previous winter, and made nice plants dur¬ 
ing the summer; hub this last winter has 
been too much for them. There are only two 
of the Pittosporums that seem to be hardy 
here ; P. Tobira has been out several years, 
but both P. undulatum and P. Colensoi suffer 
from the frost. Grevilleas have done well, 
and, to all appearance, have nob suffered in 
the least. The pretty little flowers of G. 
rosmarinifolia are now expanding on plants 
against a south wall, and in the course of a 
few days, should the weather he warm, this 
shrub will be in full bloom._ Those who have 
licit grown it would do well to give it a trial 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 








90 


GJB DEJYIJVG TL L IT STB. IT ED. 


April 13, 1907 


against a south or west wall, ium its blight 
little clusters of flowers will well repay the 
cultivator for any trouble he may take with it. 

One is often dubious of trying some of the 
shrubs which are said to be hardy, for though 
they may withstand the frost of an ordinary 
winter, when there is one of unusual severity 
many of them are killed, thus causing great 
disappointment. Enkinnthus campauulatus, 
however, seems perfectly hardy, and, when in 
bloom is very attractive, even ttipugh the indi¬ 
vidual flowers are small. Some years ago 
there was a large plant of Dcsfontanca 
spinosft growing in the gardens here, but in 
making some alterations the plant had to lie 
taken up, and ns we had a severe winter be¬ 
fore the plant was re-established, the frost 
was too much for it; since then I have not 
been able to establish another plant. When 
in bloom this is one of the prettiest shrubs 
one could wish to see. Its long, tubular 
flowers, which are produced late in the 
autumn, interspersed with the small Holly¬ 
like foliage, are very attractive. tttvrax 
japonica, too, has proved itself quite hardy, 
and, so far, seems to be uninjured. Where 
this plant succeeds well its pure white flowers, 
which expand in June, arc very attractive. 
SStephanandra flexuosa and S. Tanakse appear 
as hardy as any shrubs wc have, and the same 
may be said of Edgworthia papyrifera. 

There are many other hardy shrubs so well 
worth a place in our gardens that one is at a 
loss to understand why so few of them are 
planted. Many are quite as hardy ns the com¬ 
mon Laurel, and far more beautiful in many 
ways. H we use some of the more compact 
growing kinds, such as the Andromedas, 
Skimmias, Kalmias, Osmnnthusos. Iiaphio- 
lcpis, Griselinias, and Olearins, which are all 
evergreen, flowers may he had for the greater 
portion of the year, and if we turn to the de¬ 
ciduous kinds there arc many of compact 
growth that may be found to answer our pur¬ 
pose. The reason so many fail to grow these 
shrubs is because they plant them in uncon¬ 
genial soil. A dry. gravelly bank may suit 
some things, but others prefer a deep loam, 
and not a few arc rather partial to a light, 
jH'aty soil, even though they may not be 
classed as American or bog plants. 

There is no doubt that many of our green¬ 
house shrubs would withstand the frost of an 
ordinary winter in sheltered places. Some of 
the Indian Azaleas have stood out here 1111 - 
protected for several years, though we, ns a 
rule, experience frost, as severe as anywhere 
in the district. Our soil, in general, is cold 
and retentive, though there is a great variety 
in a very limited space, from light, sandy ]x*at 
to stiff loam bordering on clay. On the higher 
ground, shrubs of most kinds grow remarkably 
well, and many which are considered quite 
tender have flourished for years unprotected. 

H. C. Prinsep, Ruxted Park Cardens, 
Uckfield, Sussex, in Gardeners ’ Magazine. 


THE FORSYTHIAS. 

Undoubtedly the finest of all the Forsythias 
is 

F. suspensa. which is just now a delightful 
feature in many gardens, and under widely 
different conditions. It. is, perhaps, best 
known as a free-growing, rambling (almost 
climbing) shrub, very desirable for clothing 
walls, arbours, and pergolas, or for similar 
purposes. It possesses the great merit of 
thriving in London, and, as a wall shrub, its 
beauty is there much appreciated, for even 
in a courtyard, provided it is a sunny one, 
this Forsythia will both grow and flower well. 
In order to clothe a wall in the most satisfac¬ 
tory manner, the main shoots should be 
carried up and trained along the upper part 
of the wall. From these, secondary brandies 
will be pushed out, and, if there is sufficient 
space, will hang down for a considerable dis¬ 
tance. These are the shoots that flower, and 
an established plant well furnished with them 
resembles at the flowering season a fountain 
of gold. The time of blooming depends a 
good deal upon the weather, for I have had 
this Forsythia nicely in flower in February, 
whereas this year it is at its best at Easter. 
Another way of treating Forsythia suspensa is 
to grow it in bush form—that is to say, the 
plants must bo cut back hard after flowering 
to a height of about a yard from the ground. 

Google 


From the stump thus left, stout branches will 
be soon pushed out, and they will in one sea¬ 
son attain a length of 4 feet to 5 feet. These 
flower the following spring, and after that 
they must be almost entirely cut away, leav¬ 
ing only two or three eyes at the base. By 
means of this annual pruning, the Forsythia 
may be made to form a shnjioly hush, and, 
from the disposition of the branches, an ex¬ 
ceedingly graceful one. This treat incut, is a 
more exhausting one to the plant limn if it is 
allowed to develop in a natural manner, 
hence it. is greatly IxMiofited by a dressing of 
manure soon after the pruning is done. A 
bed containing several specimens treated in 
this way close to the succulent-house at Kew 
formed one of the most pleasing Easter fea¬ 
tures of the gardens. In some catalogues, 
beside the specific name of suspensa, there 
also occur the names Fortunei and Sieboldi, 
but they only represent a slight, and not al¬ 
ways permanent, variation from the typical 
F. suspensa. Increase of this pretty shrub 
is an easy matter, as cuttings taken in Octo¬ 
ber and inserted in a sheltered border will 
soon root, while if the long, flexible shoots 
touch the ground they will often strike root 
just at the tip in the same way as the Bramble 
so frequently does. 

F. VIRTDIH8IMA. an upright-growing shrub, 
with green-barked shoots and Willow like 
leaves, flowers in much the same way, but 
not. so freely, as the preceding. This, which 
will reach a height of 6 feet or more, is too 
thin a hush to he seen to advantage, unless 
planted in a mass or clump. The purplish 
tinge that the foliage assumes in autumn be¬ 
fore it drops is a notable feature of this 
Forsythia. 

Forsythia intermedia is, in general ap¬ 
pearance, about, intermediate between the two 
above-named species, and is said to l»e a 
hybrid between them. It, is a very handsome 
border shrub, ntid. being of dwarfer habit, 
than F. suspensa, needs little or no pruning. 
For flowering under glass in early spring it is 
also well suited, as. in common with F. sus¬ 
pensa, it quickly responds to a little gentle 
heat. 

Forsythia buropasa.- This has aroused a 
great deal of interest from the fact that it 
was discovered in Albania, whereas the others 
are natives of China. It was introduced in 
1899, and for a time did not promise to be of 
any particular value, but within the last two 
or three years it, has done much better. It 
differs from F. suspensa in the loaves lacing 
thicker in texture and in its slower rate of 
growth, while the minor bran oh lets are 
shorter, stouter, and more numerous. Though 
a most, interesting shrub, its value, compared 
with that of the other kinds, has yet to be 
proved. X. 


NOTES AND TIEPLIES. 

Citrus triptera in Hampshire. Can you fell 
me if Citrus triptera is likely to lie a useful plant in 
the South of Hampshire? Yilmorin describes it as a 
•* thorny variety of Citrus, quite hardy in the climate 
of Paris. Will prow in any soil, especially in deep 
sandy ones, and it makes splendid impenetrable 
hedges.’’ The pips I have received from Yilrnorin 
germinate readily in from a month to six weeks, after 
sowing in a temperature of an degs. Could you also 
tell me whether Atriplex Malinins and the Halimo- 
dendron nrgenteuni arc likely to he useful in a sandy 
shingle, assisted with a little garden soil in places 
exposed to rough winds on the south coast, of Hamp¬ 
shire?— Whin Hurst. 

[Citrus triptera is quite hardy in the neigh¬ 
bourhood of London, and, consequently, there 
would he no danger of it, suffering from frost, 
in the south of Hampshire. The soil best 
suited for it is a deep sandy loam, which- it 
is very necessary—must be effectually 
drained. From its profusion of formidable 
spines, combined with sturdy growth, it 
forms quite an impenetrable hedge. This 
Citrus is certainly a very striking and de¬ 
cidedly ornamental shrub, which, though 
deciduous, has the bark of the shoots, spines, 
and branches, except the very oldest., of a 
rich deep green colour, so that even in winter 
it is almost as effective as an evergreen. The 
starry-white flowers, each about a couple of 
inches across, are borne in May, and, under 
particularly favourable conditions,, are suc¬ 
ceeded bv fruits like small Oranges, rugged 
on.the outside, and rich yellow when ripe. 
They, however, are seldom developed in this 
country unless in some very favoured spots 


along the smith coast. Even if the blossoms 
arc not succeeded by fruits, a pretty autumn 
feature is furnished by the trifoliate leaves, 
which change to a clear yellow before they 
drop, though they do not remain long in this 
stage. It may be pointed out that, this mem¬ 
ber of the Orange family, which is a native 
of China and Japan, is exceedingly rich in 
synonyms, the following having boon all used 
at. souk* time or other: Citrus trifolia. Cit¬ 
rus trifoliata. Citrus triptera, Limonia t,ri- 
foliata, Pspudicgle sepiuria, Triplmsia tri¬ 
foliata, and .Fgle sepiaria, this last, name 
being, according to the Kew Hand List, now 
the correct one. You will find an illustra¬ 
tion of the fruit at page 105 of the last 
volume, as also a description of the Citrus 
family. Both the Atriplex Halim us and 
Haliinodendroii argenteum would lx* likely to 
succeed under the conditions named by you, 
as also would Coin tea arborescens, Caragana 
arborescens, Hippophae rhaninoidcs, Ly- 
cium europaeum, and the Tamarisk.] 


Treatment of Wistaria —Will you kindly give 
me some information as to the treatment of a Wis¬ 
taria? 1 have hail two plants growing now for five 
or six years up a wall with an cast aspect; but they 
do not bloom. I Intend moving them, and should he 
glad to know' the soil and situation most suitable, and 
also time and method of pruning?--<\ T. 

[It is now rather too late to move your Wis¬ 
tarias, so you had better postpone it till the 
autumn. A welldrained loam suits the Wis¬ 
taria best,, and a south aspect is a desirable 
one. The amount of pruning will depend on 
the space to be covered, and, when the plant 
is furnished with tin* long, flexible branches, 
summer pruning is nil that will ho necessary. 
This is carried out in a somewhat similar 
manner to the spur system adopted with 
Vines, or, rather, a system combining that 
with the plun generally adopted for fruit- 
trees, which bear their flowers and fruit on 
old spurs. In the month of July all shoots 
that may be reserved on the main or leading 
stems should be pinched back‘to within a foot 
of the main stem, in order to check the ram¬ 
pant growth. These shoots will again break 
into growth from the buds just behind where 
the shoot was stop|M*d, and after these shoots 
have grown a few inches they should be again 
stopped. The result will be the formation of 
flower-spurs at the foot of the shoot first 
shortened. Earlv in the following spring 
these shoots should be out back to within five 
or six eyes of the main stem, and the young 
growths from these eyes are thou to he treated 
in the same way as those juf the previous year.] 


Magnolia Soulangeana nigra. This 
Magnolia, of which a specimen brought on 
under glass was given an award of merit, by 
the. Royal Horticultural Society, on March 
19th. w as by many regarded aw a new variety, 
but such a conclusion is very wide of the 
mark. About twenty-five years ago ifc was 
flowering freely in Messrs. Witch's nursery at 
Coonibe Wood, and a coloured plate of it 
was given in The Garden■ in the spring of 1884. 
There seems to be a certain amount of doubt 
as to its origin, but it is believed that this 
particular form was brought from Japan by 
the late Mr. John Gould Veitcli, who was the 
means of introducing so many beautiful 
plants from that region. When first public 
attention was directed to its merits, this. Mag¬ 
nolia was looked upon as a hybrid between tho 
Yulan (M. eonspicua) and M. obovata (M. 
purpurea), and this parentage is given in the 
“Kew Hand List.” Magnolia Soulangeana. 
it may be recalled, is the result of an acci¬ 
dental crossing of these two species at l 1 ru¬ 
men t, near Paris, about three-quarters of a 
century ago. Although the parentage of the 
variety nigra is regarded as the same, the 
flowers art: more massive and much richer ni 
colour than those of tho ordinary M. Sotilan- 
geana. The groat beauty of the different de¬ 
ciduous Magnolias when flowered under glasj 
was well shown at the meeting of the R"> a 
Horticultural Society above referred to. They 
certainly increase in favour year by year for 
this mode of treatment.—X. 


Yew-trees (.1. P. Darivon).—Bering that t ie lew- 
c onlv just planted, it, would be advisable, urn 
icy pet, established, to mulch them with «*nu’ 

11on manure, and water freely if the woatii 
mild be dry. Of course, when thoroughly eM'u 
hid. this will not be necessary. When w’J*' 
irries kindly p ad our tubs as to putting earn one 


UNIVER? 


)F ILLINC 
HAMPAI 


Dig 




ArniL 13, 1907 


GARDENING IL L VSTRA TED. 


91 



ROOM AND WINDOW. 

LAVATERA OLBIA. 

Although this handsome South European 
species has been in cultivation upwards of 
300 years, it is not often seen. It is of 
shrubby habit, and attains a height of 8 feet 
under favourable conditions. The leaves are 
Irom three to five lobed, soft and woolly in 
texture, and of a pale green colour. The 
flowers reddish purple, each about 3 inches in 
diameter, are produced .singly on short pedi¬ 
cels from the base to the tips of the branches, 
giving a succession of bloom from June to 
October. It is a, charming plant for the wild 
garden in partial shade, and is equally happy 
in a sunny position at the back of tho her¬ 
baceous border. 


FRUIT. 

FRUIT PROSPECTS. 

After the long protracted winter it is cheer¬ 
ing to find the buds on fruit-trees, not only 
unusually late, but very strong and abun¬ 
dant. Unless something very unusual occurs 
this year’s fruit crop ought to be a record 
one, for owing to the very light crop last year 
the trees had a complete rest, and the large 
amount of sunshine last season left the 
young wood in a thoroughly well-ripened 
condition. After a mild autumn we have had 
the longest spell of frost, snow, and cold, 
sunless weather that we have, had for many 
years, the result of which is that the bloom¬ 
ing period has been postponed fully a month. 


the soil is quite dry for the time of year. 
Mulching the roots of all fruit-trees should 
be done before hot, dry weather sets in, for, 
os a rule, the summer rainfall is not nearly 
enough for trees that ure carrying heavy 
crops of fruit. 

James Groom, Gosport . 


APPLE STRIPED BEEFING. 
Although more suited for orchard than gar¬ 
den culture, on account of its somewhat 
spreading habit of growth, this is, all the 
same, a valuable late variety, and one that 
can be depended on to crop well once the 
trees become established. FruitH of the 
largest size are yielded by trees in full vigour 
indeed, in this respect they rival Blenheim 
Orange, Peasgood’s Nonsuch, and others— 
only they are flatter in shape, but have a 
greater diameter. They are handsome and 
regularly formed, and the surface is so even 
and free from angles that there is but little 
waste when preparing them for use. As a 
rule, the skin is beautifully striped with red 
on a greenish-yellow ground, and the surface 
| is strewed with dots of russet. The flesh is 
greenish-yellow, brittle and juicy, with just 
a sufficiency of acidity to stamp it as being 
excellent either for baking or boiling; and 
| the fruits possess the good property of keep¬ 
ing for a long time in first-rate condition. 
Those who think of planting new or reno¬ 
vating old orchards will find Striped Beefing 
: worthy of attention, for, although an old 
variety, it is one whose fruits are weighty, 
and, on account of their large size, they 
quickly fill the market grower’s barrels or 
baskets when the time arrives for disposal, 
and, by the same rule, make an imposing 
show in the private grower’s store, and con¬ 
tinue in use over a long period if but two or 
three trees are grown. The variety origi¬ 
nated in the East of England, hut it is, I 
think, pretty generally distributed through 
all the Apple-growing counties. I have both 
I seen and handled magnificent examples of 
i this Apple in the West Midlands. A. W. 


J/isTiura Olbia. From a photograph in the Cambridge Botanic Carden. 


Seeds are produced freely, and self sown 
seedlings appear in abundance, which no 
doubt accounts for its becoming naturalised 
in some parts of Britain, where it is some¬ 
times known as the “ Tree Lavatera.” 

E. J. Allard. 


A note from Wilts.— My Cyclamens are 
now flowering well in a north-east window. 
1 have also some Sehizantlius coming into 
flower which 1 grew all the winter in my win¬ 
dow. I see in last week’s Gardening* Illus¬ 
trated you say you have seen of Cyclamens 
seven-year old bulbs flowering freely. I 
know a bulb that has been grown since 1887, 
and is still flowering, although the flowers 
are not so large as the up-to dute ones.— 

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I On the walls the buds of Apricots that are 
I the first to expand are only just swelling up, 
i but in average seasons they have been fully 
I out, with the result that we seldom had any 
fruit. Peaches, Nectarines. Plums, and 
Cherries are only just showing their fruit 
buds, and are perfectly safe for some time to 
1 come. The buds on Apples, Pears, Plums, 
etc., on open, fully exposed trees are just be¬ 
ginning to swell, ami by the time they are 
fully open the season will be so far advanced 
that only some very uniusual visitation of 
spring frost will do any harm. Bush fruits 
of all kinds are very promising, for although 
the w'inter has been so long 1 do not think 
the small birds have attacked the buds eo 
, much as in milder Reasons. Up to the pre- 
J Rent the rainfall has been very light, and 


GRAPES MILDEWED. 

I have a cool greenhouse with two Vines in it (roots 
outside). Last year, after being well manured, the 
crop was very small, and the bunches that matured 
had a sort, of fungus at the base of each berry. Can 
you tell me the cause and remedy ?—Constantine. 

I [Your Grapes wen 1 , no doubt, affected by 
mildew, which we are rather surprised at, 
seeing that last summer was a record one for 
heat and bright weather. The most fruitful 
cause of mildew is the maintenance of a 
cold, damp atmosphere during a spell of dull, 
cool weather; also in using the front venti¬ 
lators when the wind is blowing from the 
north or in an easterly direction. A too dry 
condition of the border will sometimes cause 
I it, but, as a rule, it is generally brought about 
by one of the two things previously men¬ 
tioned. The remedy in the first instance is 
to ventilate carefully, and to refrain from 
spilling water about; also to desist from 
damping down for the time being, or so long 
ns the weather remains dull and cold, and to 
keep the atmosphere in constant circulation 
by the aid of the hot water pipes. In the 
second ease, avoid admitting air by the front 
ventilators while the skin of the Grapes is 
green and tender whenever the wind is in 
| either of the quarters named. In fact, if it 
can be done without prejudice to the other 
inmates of the house, it is always best not to 
admit front air to a vinery, particularly in 
low-lying or cold districts, until the berries 
begin to change colour. With regard to a dry 
border, the remedy is obvious. 

As to killing the mildew when once it 
j attacks the berries, there is nothing better 
than Bulpliur. This should be applied with 
a dredger, or shaken over the affected 
bunches through a piece of coarse muslin, 
which will soon destroy the fungus on the 
berries. Three days after applying it, tho¬ 
roughly wash the bunches clean by syringing 
them with clean, soft water. Another method 
is to heat the hot-water pipes so that the 
water is almost boiling, and then to paint 
them with sulphur which has been previously 
made into a paste by the addition of water 
and a little soft-sdkp. This is best done after 
mki dowt). Allow 1 lie pipes '<» gradually cool 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 









92 GAMjEMjYG ILLUSTRATED. Arnn. 13, 1907 


down after they have been painted with the 
sulphur, and wash it off early the next morn¬ 
ing. The ventilators should also be opened 
slightly very early the next morning to allow 
the fumes to escape before sunrise.] 


NOTES AND HE PLIES. 

Fruit picked by birds.— The damage done 
by birds to fruit is much greater than was 
the case some few years ago. This is not 
difficult to account for, seeing the protection 
given them by law. In fruit districts the 
damage done is not so much, as everyone has 
fruit, and endeavours to keep the birds within 
bounds. Recently, when at Sherborne 
Castle, Mr. Turton was telling'me he in¬ 
tended to cover some rows of Cox’s Orange 
Pippin-bush trees from 7 feet to 9 feet high. 
He intends to cover them with wire netting 
to keep out the small tits. In this garden 
last year this and several other Apples 
suffered badly from birds, causing much loss 
of fruit. I put these damaged fruits to one 
side, and find it advantageous to do so. 
Frequently I find a portion of the fruit keeps, 
and I have observed if the Apples are picked 
before they have finished swelling the dam¬ 
aged part heals over and becomes firm. A 
writer recently spoke of filling the holes with 
plaster of Paris. This or anything harmless 
answers if it is applied before rot commences. 
—Dorset. 


VEGETABLES. 

KAT.ES. 

To the Editor of Gardening Illustrated. 

Sir, —I quite agree with Mr. Burrell re 
hardiness of Kahvs. The varieties art; far too 
numerous and too much alike in some respects. 
Like Mr. Burrell, f have tried most of the 
varieties in cultivation, and have fallen back 
on the tali Scotch kind and one of Veitch’s 
hearting forms. I have never known/either 
of these to fail, however severe the winter 
may be. During the past winter I was able 
to cut fine heads of the old Scotch Kale all 
through the severe frost, and can now find 
plenty of nice tender sprouts, which are pro¬ 
duced all up the long stems. I tried the 
Asparagus Kale, and as long as the winters 
were mild this was. of course, good, and no 
one could find fault with its flavour or pro¬ 
ductiveness. As soon, however, as frost 
came this variety began to decay, and was 
practically useless. This, I think, will hap¬ 
pen in the case of a great many of the varie¬ 
ties now on trial at Wisley; and what good 
purpose can possibly be served by growing 
so many kinds, which are, for the most part, 
at least, of doubtful hardiness, and no im¬ 
provement in any way on the good old and 
well-tried sorts? Drumhead Kale will not 
stand here after 12 degs. to 16 degs. of frost 
in November or December. The good old 
Cottager’s is still grown very extensively in¬ 
deed in this district, and it never fails. I 
suppose nine-tenths of the cottagers grow' it 
both in their gardens and on their allot¬ 
ments. Looking through the small bed 
growing here to-day, I could not find a 
vacant place in the bed. and the plants will 
give us an abundance of delicious greens for 
some time to come. 

I find that the two last months of the year 
are the critical time for most of the 
Kales and Broccolis, particularly if the 
autumn is wet. Strange to say; although 
so many of the Kales and other things have 
fared so badly during the past winter, the 
Broccolis have come through remarkably 
well: even sueh kinds as Snow’s Superb and 
the Spring Cauliflower have passed through 
safely, and are now turning in fast. The 
hardiest Broccoli I have here is Late Queen. 
Not one plant has been killed. True, I have 
not a great many of it, but all have survived. 
Model has not been so successful. There are 
several gaps in the bed, and, strange to say, 
where these occur several plants standing to¬ 
gether have gone. Taking the Broccolis and 
Cauliflower as a whole, however, I am well 
satisfied, and I think this is general in this 
part of the country—centre of the Cotswolds. 

T. Arnold. 

The Garden *, Cirencester House, 
Cirencester. 

Digitized by GCb ’glC 


-Some time since notes of a trial of 

Kales growing in the gardens of the Royal 
Horticultural Society at Wisley were pub¬ 
lished in these columns. At that time the 
Kales, when seen, were all in rude health 
and vigour, having undergone no hard 
weather exposure. Blit it was agreed to 
leave the entire breadth for a few months, 
that some experience of the hardiness or 
otherwise of the various sorts might be ob¬ 
tained. A portion of the R.H.S. vegetable 
committee examined the Kales for that ob¬ 
ject on the 8th inst. A particularly notice¬ 
able feature was the wholesale destruction 
wrought in all the dwarfer broad or Rape- 
leaved section, such as Breda, Asparagus, 
Ragged Jack, or allied forms. But it was no!* 
possible to determine whether these had 
been killed by frost or by a fungoid attack. 
That matter is, however, to form the subject 
of inquiry. Some years ago, when a similar 
trial was conducted in the gardens at Chis¬ 
wick, ail these forms of Kales were destroyed 
early in the winter by fungus. It is sug¬ 
gested that these varieties are tender rela¬ 
tively, because they have been bred from the 
Rape. It was, however, evident that other 
broad-leaved forms, such as Chou de Milan, 
without doubt one of the very best for gar¬ 
den culture, Hundredheads, and the tall Jer¬ 
sey Cabbage, were quite hardy, and were 
unhurt. For giving strong, late, succulent 
sprouts, no doubt a good stock of Chou de 
Milan is hard to excel. Unfortunately, the 
stock at Wisley was uneven, some plants ex¬ 
ceptionally good, others not in good charac¬ 
ter. Next to these, and also having partially- 
curled leafage, were the stocks of Cottager’s 
Kale. These had stood quite unharmed, but 
one stock stood out better than the others as 
less tall, more bushy, and coated with 
sprouts. This, too, had the greenest leafage. 
Cottager’s Kale is, without doubt, if a good 
stock, a first-class late winter vegetable. 
The various Drumhead Kales seem hybrids 
or cross products of curled Kales and Savoy 
Cabbages. At Wisley they did not present 
by any means attractive features, and obtained 
no awards. Neither did any of the varie¬ 
gated Kales, for these, however prettily 
coloured, have poor edible value, and, in¬ 
deed, fail to give anything like such massive 
heads as the normal Kales do. A purple¬ 
leaved arctic Kale, very dwarf and curled, 
showed great hardiness, but the colour did 
not find favour. Of several dwarf green 
curled stocks one stood out as very good in¬ 
deed. The plants were from 10 inches to 
12 inches in height, broad, and massive, such 
as would soon fill bushels. Others were very 
fair stocks also, hut the one referred to cer¬ 
tainly was best. Of tall curled Kales, the old 
Scotch was a long way distanced by newer 
selections. Each of these was good, but here, 
again, one stock seemed to be distinctly the ; 
best, the heads being very massive and free 
from all injury. A very distinct, massive, 
and very curiously cut-leaved form was Chou 
de Russe. This form was so far new that 
not one of the members of the vegetable com¬ 
mittee present had previously seen it. Its 
heads and sprouts, which are produced on the 
stems in great abundance, are tender, and 
exceedingly nice when cooked. 

After subjecting the entire breadth to a 
second searching examination, the committee 
recommended for awards of merit the follow¬ 
ing: Chou do Russe (Jas. Carter and Co.), 
Cottager’s Kale (Jas. Veitcli and Sons), Se¬ 
lected Medium Green Curled (Kent and Bry- 
don), Dwarf Moss Curled (Carter and Co.), 
and Tall Green Curled (Veitcli and Sons). 
Probably hardlv a stock was seen, however 
good, but could, by very rigid selection, be 
still further improved. Seedsmen are very 
much alive to that, fact, and the pains they 
are constantly taking to reach perfection 
merit the warmest praise. Already, of other 
trials, a huge one of Onions has been sown. 
Peas also have largely been sown. Potatoes 
also will be planted, and Dwarf Beans, out 
door Tomatoes, and some other things will 
follow. A. D. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Planting Asparagus. —I hnve 8 feet of pood 
black earth in my garden, and below this any depth 
of pure white sand. I live on the north-east coast, 
but my garden is fairly sheltered. 1 am making an 
Asparagus-bed. I trenched the ground 2 feet deep in 


winter, and dug in two loads of manure and half 
a hundredweight of salt. The bed is big enough to 
hold 50 roots, planted 16 inches apart every way. I 
propose to plant Sutton’s Perfection, two-ycar-old 
roots. Is this right? Is Sutton's Perfection a 
tender, green Asparagus? I do not like the coarse, 
giant kinds, but prefer Asparagus green to the root. 

— ENQUIRER, Nairn, A’.If. 

[When preparing the soil for your Aspara¬ 
gus-bed you would have done well to have 
omitted the salt, because this mineral, bene¬ 
ficial as it is if applied to Asparagus when 
in full growth, has a harmful effect when 
used at any other season. Suit, too, always 
renders the soil much colder when used in 
the winter months, and as the Asparagus de¬ 
lights in a warm, well-drained soil, you will 
readily understand that you were ill-advised 
in using it. No doubt its effect in your case 
will soon pass off. and it need not deter you 
from planting the bed as you propose. By 
the measurements you give we assume you 
intend your bed to be 3 feet in width, to con¬ 
tain three rows of crowns, 16 inches distant 
from each other all ways, with an 8-ineh 
space between the outer rows and the alley. 
Planting in this way at such close distances 
is admissible only when space is limited, and 
when there is a desire to obtain n-s much pro¬ 
duce as possible under the circumstances. 
IT you have the ground to spare, you would 
obtain far better results bv having two rows 
only in a bed 3 feet in width, planting the 
crowns not nearer together than 18 inches 
either way. Again, if you arc anxious to con¬ 
fine the Asparagus to a given space, and the 
plot you have prepared will admit of it, you 
can make the ImmI 4 feet G inches to . r » feet 
wide, which will enable yon to have three 
rows of crowns at 18 inches apart every way. 
Having so advised you, we must, in the ab¬ 
sence of fuller details, leave von to deter¬ 
mine which of the three methods will, under 
the circumstances, answer your purpose best. 
With regard to the ago of the crowns for 
planting, we prefer them to be not older 
than one year, but, no doubt, your object, 
although you do not say so, is to get the lied 
into bearing as quickly as possible. Under 
such circumstances, two-year-old roots may 
be employed, but the greatest care should be 
exercised, particularly if they have to be pur¬ 
chased at a distance, and do not keep them 
out of the ground one moment longer than is 
absolutely necessary. To this end, have the 
bed in readiness for planting by opening out 
flat-bottomed drills some 9 inches wide and 
5 inches deep, at whatever distance apart you 
decide the rows are to he. You will then 
have nothing to do but to plant immediately 
you receive the crowns, and if the roots are 
at all dry, water through a fine-rosed water- 
pot, and then cover with fine soil at once. 
The variety you name is an excellent Aspara¬ 
gus. and one we think likely to prove satis¬ 
factory.] 

Vegetables for exhibition — I am desirous cf 
Brewing some vegetables for exhibition this year, and 
wish to compete in a class for a collection of nine 
varieties distinct. 1 thought the following kinds 
would do: Peas, French Penns, Runner Benns, Onions, 
Carrots, Parsnips, Beet. Celery, and Cauliflowers. Do 
you think these would do or would you advise others? 
Are Cucumbers and Tomatoes a pood feature in a 
collection? They seem to me to belonp to another 
class than vegetables proper; but your advice will be 
esteemed. 1 have not mentioned Potatoes or Turnips. 

— INQUIRER, S hr nr a b it ry. 

[We presums the vegetable class you pro¬ 
pose to exhibit in at the Shrewsbury show is 
the one open only to the county of Salop, and 
consisting of nine kinds, set up in a given 
space. You mention varieties, but you must 
distinguish between kinds and varieties. 
Kinds arc Pca-s, Potatoes, Cabbages, and 
other things. Varieties mean diverse sorts 
of any of them ; therefore, you must show 
distinct kinds. If you look over the vege¬ 
tables staged in other classes for nine kinds 
—and there are several others—you will find 
the chief ones are Cauliflowers, Leeks, 
Celery, Onions, Carrots, Potatoes. Toma¬ 
toes, Peas, and Runner Beans. Only one 
kind of Bean sould be shown, and fine 
long straight Runner Benns are best. Next 
to those named come Cucumbers. Beets, 
Vegetable Marrows, and Turnips. Knowing 
the show well, we give you the names of these 
kinds, because all the leading growers have 
most of them, especially of the nine named 
first. You must give to all kinds first-rate 
cultivation.] il fl I ( 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



April 13, 1007 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


93 


OAROEN work. 

Conservatory. —It will soon be necessary 
to use a little shade over flowering plants. 
Large, lofty houses are difficult to shade, but, 
as a rule, these are furnished with climbing 
plants on the roof, and if these are now 
rhinned anrl tied out so that the ends of the 
'hoots hang gracefully down, they will afford 
sufficient shade for moot things. This work 
requires attention now. Littlu and often is 
the proper course to adopt. Acacias are very 
beautiful whilst they last, but they do not 
last long, and as soon as the flowers fade, 
prune the plants into shape, and if they are 
in pots it may be possible to take them to 
another house to make growth, and towards 
the end of July they may be placed out¬ 
side on a coal-ash-bsd. Specimen Azaleas 
must remain under glass till the growth is 
completed and getting firm, and early in July 
they also may tie placed outside. Leutzias 
after flowering should be cut back and helped 
iu gentle heat till growth is made and 
partially ripened. Many people spoil these 
plants for the next year by turning them out 
and neglecting them when flowering is over. 
Most of our Azaleas now come from the 
continent, and generally flower well the first 
season, but they want careful treatment to 
get them to bloom well the second year, 
which means that they must lie helped on in 
heat till growth is finished, and then partially 
ripened in a cool house before complete ex¬ 
posure is given. This is a good season for 
repotting any plant which requires more root 
space. The usual way of dealing with hard- 
wooded plants is to repot as soon as the 
plants begin to grow, as then the roots are 
more active, and the new soil is Boon filled 
with young, healthy roots. The great danger 
to newly-potted plunts lies in the water-pot, 
slid it is best to do the repotting during a 
time of root activity. Very free ventilation 
is required now. 

Stove. —At this season there is always a 
lot of young plants coming on. As aoon as 
cuttings are well rooted they should be potted 
of! into small pots and helped on in heat till 
well established ; in fact, young plants all 
through their early life should have liberal 
treatment if they are required to produce 
.flowers next winter or within a reasonable 
lime. The first batch of cuttings of Poinset- 
tiaa is now probably rooted, and may be 
lifted out of the bottom-heat-bed to harden 
the growth a little and prepare them for a 
shift into larger pots. Further batches of 
cuttings should lx* put in as soon as they can 
be had. This is such a valuable decorative 
plant in winter, when well grown, that one 
b not likely to be overstocked. Young 
Crotons, Dracaenas, and other fine-leaved 
plants are very useful for winter decoration, 
and cuttings "will root freely now, and, if 
grown on q uickly in heat, they will soon 
make nice little plants. If, when well estab¬ 
lished, they are placed in a light position, 
and not overshaded, they will soon put on 
colour. There is a demand now for small, 
fine-foliaged plants for decoration, and the 
stove is the place to work up a stock of these. 

Early Peach-house. —After the Peaches 
have stoned they will bear a little more heat, 
but CO (legs, at night will be sufficient. A 
little more work may be done by shutting up 
the sunshine in the house by early closing- 
say, soon after 3.30 p.m. There must be free 
ventilation to give flavour, and a little air at 
night, when calm arid mild, will help in the 
work of flavouring the fruit. Liberal feed¬ 
ing may be carried out until the fruits begin 
to put on colour, but strong stimulants, or 
even too much plain water at the finish will 
injure the flavour. The ripening or finishing 
off requires care, and it is certain that fruits 
ripened in a stuffy house will not be of first- 
rate quality. Any fruits shaded by foliage 
should be uncovered and exposed. 

Watering Inside Vine borders.— If there 
are any dry spots they should be found and 
broken up or loosened with the fork, and tho¬ 
roughly moistened with warm liquid-manure. 
It is just possible that outside borders of the 
early-house which have been covered with 
leaves or shutters may require moisture, and 
this should be seen to and warm liquid- 
manure given, and the mulch of leaves re- 

Digitized by (jO' '^lC 


placed. Avoid checks of all kinds, and 
though Vine roots may be disturbed when 
the Vines are dormant without injury, it is 
not wise to expose or otherwise disturb them 
when the Vines are full of growth. When 
the drainage is perfect it is not easy to over¬ 
feed when the Grapes are swelling, though 
too much liquid manure when the Grapes 
are colouring will probably spoil the colour. 
Under any circumstances Grape-Vines are 
very tenacious of life, but if the roots run 
down deep into cold subsoil it is nfcxt to im¬ 
possible to obtain good Grapes, and the wise 
man, when he finds things going wrong, lifts 
the roots and gives them their food near the 
surface. 

Tomatoes inside. Now is the time to 
plant in cool-houses. They will do without 
fire-heat now ; in fact, Tomatoes will hardly 
pay for much fire-heat at any time. Of 
course, they can be taken as a catch crop, 
on the principle that it fills the house with 
something that will pay for labour, and so 
keep the hands employed. It is a mistake to 
plant thickly. Not only is it difficult to woi;k 
among crowded Tomatoes without doing in¬ 
jury, but the plants will not bear so well. In 
large houses it is better to give each plant a 
square yard to grow in than crowd them. 
Plant only robust and sturdy plants, and 
mulch with manure, so as to save watering. 

Outdoor garden. One of the most in¬ 
teresting spots in the garden during this and 
the next month is the rock garden. There 
are many beautiful things among Primulas, 
Anemones, Saxifrages, etc. Double while 
and other Arabises, creeping and hanging 
over stones, are now very conspicuous, and 
these will be followed in a short time by 
similar patches of blue or mauve Aubrietias. 
These are simple things, but very effective, 
and may be seen in many a cottage garden. 
Choicer things on the rockery will be bene¬ 
fited now’ by receiving a top-dressing of rich 
compost. This is a suitable time to make 
extensions to collections of hardy nlpines 
and Ferns. Bare ground beneath heavy-foli- 
aged trees may bo planted with small-leaved 
Ivies. The Ivy is the only plant which ap¬ 
pears to enjoy living under the dense foliage 
of the Horse-Chestnut. The small-leaved 
Periwinkle (Vinca) and St. John’s Wort will 
also live under trees. Plant Tufted Pansies 
for summer flowering. They are more effec¬ 
tive and last longer if a layer of cow-manure 
is dug into the bed before planting, placing it 
deep enough to be below the roots at pre¬ 
sent, but within reach when the time of trial 
comes. Violets for frames should soon lx 
planted.in well-prepared ground I foot apart. 
Mulch when the weather becomes hot and 
dry- Cuttings rooted in autumn make the 
best plants for lifting. 

Fruit garden. Most people have finished 
fruit-tree planting for this season, and will 
now be turning their attention to grafting. 
Any healthy trees which do not bear good 
fruit may be headed back and new heads 
placed upon them in a couple of years, which 
is usually done by rind or cleft grafting. The 
former is easily accomplished, and seldom 
fails. The only objection to it is that the 
grafts, being only inserted just inside the 
bark, arc, in windy places, rather liable to be 
blown out. In the course of time, when the 
grafts are well established, the danger is not 
so great. In cleft grafting, older wood may 
be used, but the fitting together of the graft 
and stock requires care, and the chisel or saw 
must be used. The main thing in all graft¬ 
ing is to see that the bark of scion and stock 
is neatly fitted together at least on one side, 
or there w ill lx no union. The sap should be 
rising freely in the stock whilst the buds of 
the graft are dormant. Small stocks will be 
worked on the method termed whip-grafting, 
which is very simple, and anybody with a 
sharp knife can do it. It is simply cutting 
a slice from the side of the stock and a cor¬ 
responding slice from the side of the graft 
and fitting the two together, tying in firmly 
and covering with clay or grafting-wax in 
such a manner as to exclude the air. 

Vegetable garden. —Sow main crop of 
Carrots and Turnip-rooted Beet. The long- 
rooted Beet will get large enough if sown to¬ 
wards the end of the month. Cauliflowers 


which have been raised in heat may be plan¬ 
ted out now. Sow Peas every ten days or 
so. Autocrat and other Marrow Peas may 
be planted now’. Any Lettuces left in the 
autumn seed-beds may be planted out now. 
Lettuces in frames will now lx turning in, 
and will be valuable, and should be tied up 
to blanch. Sow Spinach often, as it will 
run to seed if hot weather comes. On dry 
soils sow Spinach Beet, and start a few seeds 
of the New Zealand Spinach in heat, to plant 
out later. Tie matting rather loosely round 
Cabbages now beginning to form hearts to 
hasten the hearting. Make a full sowing of 
all kinds of winter greens and late Cauli¬ 
flowers. Plant Broad Beans and a few rows 
of Ne Plus Ultra, or some early dwarf 
Kidney Beans may be planted at the foot of 
a south wall. French Beans coming on in 
frames must have liquid-manure and free 
ventilation during the day, but be covered 
with mats at night. French Beans, being 
subject to red-spider, should not be left in 
vineries or Peach-houses now. The herb gar¬ 
den should lx re-arranged and young plants 
either from seeds or cuttings, raised to make 
new beds. E. Hobday. 


THE COMING WEEK S WORK. 

Extracts from a Garden Diary. 

April 15th. —'Trenches for early Celery will 
soon be made. The manure will lx tho¬ 
roughly decomposed and blended with the 
soil in the trenches. Lettuce plants are 
planted on the ridges, where they usually do 
well. Raked over Asparagus lxds to permit 
the ‘‘grass” to work through easily. One bed 
is generally covered with old lights to bring 
it forward. Transplanted Lettuces raised in 
frames, and sowed more seeds outside. 

April 16th.— Finished using weed killers cm 
walks. It is Ixst to wait for settled weather 
before applying them, as if rain follows im¬ 
mediately after using, the strength is washed 
away to the drains, and edgings sometimes 
suffer. Mode a further planting of Gladioli. 
Those intended for cutting arc in the kitchen 
garden, and arc planted at intervals till the 
end of April. Sowed a collection of orna¬ 
mental Grasses outside. They can be trans¬ 
planted if necessary. 

April 17th. —Stopped and partially tied 
down late Vines. All surplus shoots have 
been removed. A steady temperature of 
60 degs. at night is maintained, as I believe 
in helping late Grapes now, so as to get the 
thick-skinned varieties ripe by the end of 
September, or nearly so. Looked over the 
early house to take out a berry or two where 
crowded. All sublaterals are promptly dealt 
with. A little air is left on at night, when, 
the weather is calm and mild. 

April 18th. —A few inferior varieties of 
Apples and Pears have been beheaded and 
grafted with better sorts. We want more 
late keeping varieties of Apples as good as 
Annie Elizabeth and Bramley’s Seedling, of 
which there is never likely to be too many. 
A few pots of Sweet Peas that were potted 
on when the others were planted out have 
given us a few nice flowers, which have lxen 
appreciated. Several plants were placed in 
a suspended basket and have been interesting 
and sweet. 

April 19th. —Finished planting Potatoes; 
sowed several kinds of Marrow Peas and 
Broad Windsor Beans. Started a few seeds 
of Giant Runner Beans in boxes for trans¬ 
planting when the weather is suitable. Made 
a last sowing of Celery for late use. The 
seeds were sown on a warm border outside 
very thinly, and will lx kept moist. This is 
the onlj r way to get very late Celery that will 
not run till late in the season. Stirred the 
soil among hardy plants. 

April 20th. —Re-arranged conservatory and 
trained climbers. Moved Azaleas and sowed 
the plants that wc want to retard to north 
house. We find this place useful now. Top- 
dressed Cucumbers and Melons in warm- 
houses. A thin shade is being used over 
plants in flower on bright days, and a good 
deal of water is thrown on paths to moisten 
the atmosphere under glass. The vaporiser 
is used when green-fly appears on plants in¬ 
doors ; outside Quassia-extract is used with 
the syringe. 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



94 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Arnri 13, 1907 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

Questions. —Queries and aiuavers are inserted in 
Gakdkxino free of chary*? if correspondent! follow these 
rules: All communications shtmUl be clearly and concisely 
written on one side, of the paper only, and addressed to 
the Editok of Gardening, 17, Fumival-street, Uolbom, 
London, E.C. Letters on business should be sent to the 
Pcjkusiikr. The name and address of the sender are 
required in addition to any designation he may desire to 
be used in the paper. When more than one query is gent, 
each should be on a separate piece of paper, and not more 
than three queries should be sent at a time. Corregpon. 
dents shotdd tear in mind that, as Gardening has to te 
sent to press some time in advance qf date, queries cannot 
always be replied to in the. issue immediately following 
the receipt of their communication. We do not reply io 
queries by post. 

Naming fruit. —Headers who desire our help in 
naming Jruit should tear in muni that several specimens 
in different stages of colour and size, of the same /Ami 
greatly assist in its determination. We have received from 
several correspondents single spec innate of fruits for 
naming, these in many cases being unripe ami other¬ 
wise poor. The, difference* between varieties of fruits are 
in many cases so trifling that it is necessary that three 
specimens «./' each kind should be sent. We cun undertake 
to name only four varieties at a time, ami these only when 
the above diicctnnw are ubseroetl. 


PLANTS AND tLOWEB3. 

Clematises in bed (A. P. Davison ).—Tito bed is 
much too high, and wo fear the plants will suffer 
from drought. It would have been far better if you 
had mude tin* tied nearly Hat and sunk some old tree- 
loots in the soil for the Clematises to scramble over. 
You cannot plant anything else in the bed without 
injuring the Clematises. 

Pruning Lady Penzance Brier (lFincAejrfrr).— 
We do not advise cutting back the plants the first 
year. It is best to allow them to grow as they like, 
then the following spring cut back, to about i foot, 
most of the growths, but not all. If the plants Hre 
nice bushy stuff, one or two of the strongest growths 
may be retained their full length, bift if not, then cut 
all back the second spring after plunting. 

Shading a greenhouse (A).—There is nothing 
equal to roller-blinds that admit of being drawn up 
and down when wanted, for greenhouses. The next 
best thing for amateurs is a dressing of “ summer 
cloud,*’ put on inside the glass when the latter is 
quite dry. Ferns require more shade than ordinary 
greenhouse plants. The part occupied by Ferns 
should be attended to at once. In a general w’ay the 
middle of April is soon enough to begin shading 
flowering plants. 

Patches on lawn (The Cedars).—It the Grass on 
your bare patches of lawn be quite dead, your best 
course will be to point them over a few inches deep, 
make the surface fine and level, then sow proper 
lawn Grass-seeds, got from a seedsman, but not too 
thickly, lest the density starves the whole of the 
Grass. When sown, and the seeds lightly raked in, 
roil thoroughly, and protect the seed from birds. A 
liberal dressing of soot, all over the lawn will do good. 
Sweep in all cases very lightly when Grass is thin, 
as the broom heavily used often does barm. 

Crinums (A.).—We suppose the plants you refer 
to as pink Lilies are Crinums, to flower which suc¬ 
cessfully they must have full exposure to sunshine 
during the greater part of the year. C. capense 
album and C. capense roseum will flower all the better 
if stood out-of-doors in a sunny spot us soon as the 
spring frosts are over, and taken under cover when the 
flower-spikes are developing. After flowering, well 
ripening out-of-doors will do much to encourage the 
formation of blooms for another season. These 
Crinums are hardy in the West of England and Ire¬ 
land, and flower freely in the open ground. 

Tuberous Begonias (Af. J. Powye ).—If you have 
any glass, then you can purchase Begonia bulbs now 
and grow them on yourself, planting out in May. 
If, however, you prefer it, you can get plants in pots 
about the end of May and use those. If you obtain 
good-sized plants you will require about 100 bulbs, 
planting these in two lines with an edging of some 
sort. Should you desire to All the bed entirely with 
Begonias, then you will require about 150 bulbs. The 
single varieties are the most effective. We may say 
that the cheaper way is to buy the dry bulbs and 
grow them on — i.e., if you have the cqnvenience for so 
doing. 

Preparing bedding Begonias (3f. J. IF.).— 
Many failures with bedding Begonias are due to 
coddling in the early stages of growth. Occasionally 
excellent beds are met with in amateurs’ gardens, and 
their bulbs are, as a rule, started into growth very 
gradually, perhaps in a cold frame. Cocoa-nut-fibre 
for embedding the bulbs in when starting them in 
spring is very useful. The new roots lay bold of it 
very readily, and the bulbs can be planted with a 
portion of it adhering to them. Even when cool 
treatment is given it is not wise to start the conns 
too early, as if only A inch of growth has been made 
when tinai planting takes place, they go away strongly 
and make up for what some might consider lost time, 
and both the quantity and quality or the blooms are 
better. 

Azalea mollis after blooming (IF. II. A.).— 
When flowering is over the plants must not be at 
once exposed to cold, cutting winds, but gradually 
hardened off. If this is well done the whole of the 
leaves will be retained in good condition, and when 
all danger from frost is over the plants may be 
plunged out-of-doors in an open spot. A bed of Cucoa- 
nut-ffbre-refu.se is the best plunging material, as it 
tends to keep the roots in a uniform state of 
moisture. During the summer the plants must be 
carefully watered, and occasionally a little weak 
liquid-manure given. In this way th^ flower-buds will 
set quite freely, and the blossom* on established 
plants remain fresh for 11 longer period than on those 
that are just lifted fronr^lie open grourml and taken 

Digitized by (jOOglC 


into the greenhouse. Planting out and forcing in 
alternate years are also practised with advantage by 
many, but in either case the principal road to success 
is to see that the plants are properly supplied with 
water throughout the summer and are not crowded 
up, as a free circulation of air is very necessary to the 
formation of flower-buds. 

Plants for window-boxes (F. IF.). — Yon cannot 
have anything better for the back row than n free- 
flowering Pelargonium, such as the old Vesuvius, or 
Fuchsias, using varieties of compact, bushy habit and 
free flowering. Good front-row plants are Tropseo- 
lums Ball of Fire and Gem, the blue and white trail¬ 
ing Campanulas (C. isophylla and its variety alba), 
the old-fashioned Maurandya Barclayana, Lysimachia 
nummuluria aurea, or the variegated Mesembryan- 
t hem urn cordifolium variegatum. The Ivy-leaved 
Pelargoniums are also very effective hanging over the 
front of the box, while Petunias, single forms, are 
also charming for window-boxes. 

Camellias in the open air </?.).—In places 
sheltered from north and cast winds there need be 
no fear or Camellias suffering from cold. Their late- 
n.ss in starting to grow flees them from all danger 
"• ••'‘te frosts. Camellias have the same dislike to 
chalky soil as Heaths, but with this absent they will 
thrive in either loam or peat. They appear to suc- 
cred best where there is a slight shade up to mid-day ; 
luit. on the other hand, one sometimes finds speci¬ 
mens that have been grown in positions fully exposed 
to the sun. Those who have spare Camellias not in 
the best of health should give them a trial in the 
open air. They are. of course, moisture-loving plants, 
and the necessity for keeping them always moist at 
the roots involves some care in watering those that 
have just been turned out of pots in which they may 
have been growing fur years. 

A weedy lawn (C.B.).-Jt is very ev ident that you 
have done much to rid your lawn of coarse weeds, 
and the doing so should greatly help the Grass to 
spread. But if the bare places left are so consider¬ 
able, your best course will be to stir them 2 inches 
or .'1 inches deep with a steel fork, then top-dress with 
any fine soil you can obtain, and sow good lawn 
Grass-seed, doing it about the second week in April. 
Mention to your seedsman the nature of your soil. 
Sow the Grass seed a little thicker on the bare places, 
and thinly where the Grass is fairly good. Well rake 
in the seed, then give a heavy rolling. Birds must be 
kept from eating the seed. So soon as growth is 
good, dress with sulphate of ammonia at the rate of 
H lb. per rod. Have it very finely broken first. It 
soon washes in. Roll the lawn frequently. Mow first 
with a scythe, then later with the lawn-mower. 

Bulbs after flowering (J. L .).—Those who grow 
bulbous plants for spring flowering in beds out-of-doors 
are upt to forget when the time arrives for planting 
these beds with their summer occupants that bulbous 
plants require a time for developing and ripening the 
bulbs, if they are to be of any use next year. Crocus, 
Snowdrop, and Scilla bulbs may be left to ripen where 
they have flowered, as they are usually ready to dig 
up, even in late seasons, about the first week in June. 
Narcissi ripen later, and they may be taken up as 
soon as the leaves become yellow. If it is necessary 
to dig any such plants up before the bulbs are ripe— 
that is, before the leaves become yellow—they must 
be planted in an open place in the garden until they 
do, ripen. The best way to treat the bulbs when 
taken up is to lay them out to dry on lattice-work 
shelves in an airy room. When quite dry they may he 
placed in paper bags until it is time to plant them 
again. 

TREES AND SHRUBS. 

Olearia Haasti (//. S .).—This forms a dense-grow¬ 
ing. somewhat lumpy bush, clothed with deep green 
Box-like leaves. It is not nearly so graceful as some 
other species, but, as a set-off, is far hardier and 
more indifferent to soil and situation. It is easily in¬ 
creased by cuttings put in in the autumn into pots of 
sandy soil and kept in nn ordinary garden frame till 
rooted. The frame must be kept close und shaded 
during bright sunshine. 

Gum-trees (Eucalypti) (J.).—You will And that 
none of the Eucalypti are hardy, unless in mild sea¬ 
shore gardens, and even then they are liable to be 
killed. Only in the more favoured districts have the 
Gum-trees any chance, and they never present the 
graceful and stately appearance which they show in 
countries which suit them. The common E. globulus 
is used in the London parks during the summer, but 
the trees will not stand the winter. 

Watering Bay trees (S. P. Davison ).—You must 
decide as to when water is necessary, so much de¬ 
pending on the amount of roots the plants have. If 
the Bays have been newly potted, then watering 
must lie carefully done: but if the tubs are full of 
roots, then, unless rain falls, and that heavily, water 
must be given every day, with an occasional soaking 
nf weak liquid-manure, which is very beneficial when 
the roots are numerous. When you do water, see that 
the ball is thoroughly soaked. The surface of the 
soil inay look inoisl while the ball is quite dry. 

Watering shrubs ill. IF.). — Newly-planted 
shrubs that in dry weather need water should have 
a very liberal—indeed, thorough—soaking given to 
them once a week until rain comes. When each 
watering is done, and it can be done at any time 
of the day, either east some dry soil over the satu¬ 
rated soil, or, better still, place about it a top-dress¬ 
ing or mulch of moderately long manure, as that 
would ward off late frost and check evaporation. 
The casting of the dry soil oyer will also do the 
same in a less degree. A mere surface watering does 
little good. It encourages surface rooting only, and 
does not help the deep roots. Where many shrubs 
have to be thus watered, a certain portion can be 
done each day, so as to make the labour as light as 
possible. Leaf-watering should be done after the .sun 
is gone off, but if the air is frosty it will bo best not 
to do it at all. 

FRUIT. 

Disbudding Vines (IF.). —You ouelit to wait 
until the bunches show, and then >ou Will be able to 


see which is the best shoot to retain. It often hap¬ 
pens that t he buds on the stem are more numerous 
than the shoots required, In which case all those not 
wanted must be rubbed off. The time for disbudding 
is when the shoots are an inch long or thereabouts, 
but the sooner it is done the better, as allowing them 
to grow and then breaking them off is a waste of 
energy. 

Stopping Vine shoots (R. A’.).—The length of 
the shoot has to be regulated by the position of the 
bunch. The usual practice is to 6top at two joints 
beyond the bunch, or at one joint beyond it if there 
is po room for greater extension. The operation 
should be performed as soon as the shoots attain the 
requisite length, simply pinching out the tip before it 
has become fully developed. After this pinching, the 
foremost buds again produce shoots, which should be 
pinched at the first leaf, and so on through the season 
as they emit in tie to grow. 

VEGETABLES. 

Cucumber loaves withering (S. /?.).-The leave* 
of the Cucumber wither, we think, through being 
scalded. This might have occurred through the 
frame or pit being full of hot steam. It is. however, 
more likely to happen through the house or frame 
being over heated by t he aetion of the sun before any 
nir was given. At this time of year the leaves of 
Cucumbers are liable to get scalded by the sudden 
appearance of the sun after two or three days’ dull 
weather, unless the cultivator is on the alert, and 
either plaees a thin shade on the glass, or ventilates 
sufficiently to keep down the temperature to a safe 
point, 

Potatoes for quality (Af. 0. IF.).— We may re¬ 
commend to you what we regard as the best Potatoes 
in cultivation, so tar as edible quality is concerned, 
but soils dispose of that quality more than anything 
else. Therein lies our difficulty. We can. from know¬ 
ledge of its average table quality, recommend for an 
early Potato Sir J. Llewellyn, as, generally it is first 
class eating; and for a late or main crop Potato. 
Factor or Peckover, both generally excellent. One of 
the best flavoured varieties we have ever tasted is 
Peacemaker. It is yellow fleshed. So much depends 
on the nature of your soil. We are just now eating 
Up-to-Dnte, both from Hertfordshire clay and Hamp¬ 
shire chalk, and in both cases the quality is first-rate. 
But the same Potato from some other southern soils 
is black and pasty. Really, you will do well to gi t 
several varieties. If you do so to test quality, add 
Midlothian Early, Liin Gray, and Sutton's .Superla¬ 
tive. 

Mustard and Cress (IF. F. Clec).- These are in¬ 
dispensable ns winter salads, and both can very 
easily be grown. The seeds should be sown in handy 
boxes, made of half-inch deal, nnd about 2 inches 
deep. A few boles must be made in the bottom of 
each box. and over the holes pieces of potsherd 
placed. Then put iu a layer of loaves or rough, fibrous 
soil, and fill up w ith a fine compost of loam, leaf-inould. 
and sand, or any light potting mould. Make level and 
press firmly with a piece of board, and then scatter 
the seeds rather thickly on the surface, leaving them 
uncovered, so far as soil is concerned. Apply tepid 
water through a rosed can. and cover the seed with n « 
sheet of brown paper, afterwards placing the box on 
the hot-water pipes, or in some warm corner of the 
greenhouse. If moistened occasionally the seed will 
soon germinate, when, remove the paper and put the 
box in a light, warn), and rather dry position. Both 
Mustard and Cress should be so treated, und a sowing 
made about once a week. 


SHORT REPLIES. 


IF. F. Glee.— If a practical man who hns seen the plant* 
cannot help you. it is all the more difficult for us, who 
have no knowledge of them, to assign any reason for their 

non-flowering.- Chloe .—Kindly say if you mean growing 

for market.- F. C. C.—The only way Is to allow' a slight 

current of wat er to nans through. So lone as the water is 

on the move this will keep it clear.- Anxious .—Please 

read our rules as to sending' name and address. The 
district you write from is all important, in tendering 

advice as to the treatment of a plant.- Georgina .—The 

Rose-leaves you send have been attacked by green-fly, the 
best remedy for which is fumigating with the XU All 
compound, which you will find advertised in our columns. 

- F. Bradley .—Fumigating is the only remedy. You 

can easily get over the difficulty of the badly fitting door 
by pasting paper over the places through which the 
smoke is likely to come .—- Lover of Nature.—The border 
is too narrow to get a fine effect, as you can at the moat 
only havethree lines—say a back line of Fuchsias, with in 
the front your Pelargoniums, anil an edging of lobelia, 
Meseinbrvantbemum cordifolium variegatum, or white 

Tufted Pansies.- Maple .—If the Maples are grafted, 

then by ull means cut off the rods you refer to. It is very 
difficult to advise without seeing the plants. 


NAMES OF PLANTS AND FRUITS. 


Names of* plants.— Hunter. I, Primula denticu- 
Inta ; 2, Drabs np., please send better specimen ; 3, Syn¬ 
th vris reniformis- C. A. W. CottriU .—Pittoeporum 

Toblra.- f. //.—The Cornelian Cherry (Cornua mas). 

- K. E. Johnson. Cory dal is cava.— J. Wright. —1, The 

Algerian Iris (1. stylosa); 2, Male catkins of Uarrya 
elliptica. 

Names of fruits.— Bradford .—Impossible to name 
from such decayed specimens. 


Catalogues received.— The Reading Nurseries, 
(J. Woodward Manning, Prop.). Heading, Moss. Price 

List of Trees , Shrubs , Fines, Flowers, and Fruits. - 

W. Cuthush and Son, Highgale, 1/ondon, N .—Special List 
of.. New and Hardy Plant*; Catalogue iff Dahlias. 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


No. 1,467— Vol. XXIX. 


Founded by W. Robinson, Author of “ The English Floicer Garden, u 


APRIL 20, 1907. 


Amaryllis flowers, green 
Apple Annie Elizabeth 
Begonias for the flower 
garden 

Birds and fruit growers 
Bramble (Rubus plaly- 
phyllus), a new fruit¬ 
ing . 

Broccoli Purple Sprout¬ 
ing . 

Carainia fulvida.. 
Chrysanthemums grow¬ 
ing too tall 
Conservatory 
Creeper-clad houses .. 
Cucumbers in frames, 
growing.. 

Cymbidium Sanderi .. 
Epiphyllum truncatuin 


101 

104 


ICO 

104 


07 

95 

106 

105 

100 


08 

102 

106 


FueryphiaB 

96 

Fernfl . 

102 

Fine-foliaged plants for 


summer. 

102 

Fruit . 

ll»3 

Fruit garden 

105 

Fruit prospects .. 

104 

Fruit-trees, renovating 


old . 

103 

Fruitfl, raising new 

104 

Gardcu diary, extracts 


from a. 

105 

Garden pests and 


friends. 

% 

Garden work 

K:5 

Gardens, our school .. 

104 

Heaths, Cape 

105 

Indian Corn growing .. 

100 

Indoor plants 

101 


IN D 

Kale Chou de Russe .. 08 

Laurel, the common .. 95 

Local schedules .. 104 

Lotus peliorrhynchus .. 100 
Magnolia stellata .. 95 

Melons in frames .. 103 
Moss in lawn .. 100 

Mulberry not fruiting .. 134) 

Note from Southsea, a 100 
Oak, the Holm .. 104 

Orchard house .. .. 105 

Orchids.102 

Orchids at Weybridge.. 102 
Outdoor plants .. .. 99 

Peaches, disbudding .. 106 
Pear-tree, fruitless .. 106 
Pears, too many varie¬ 
ties of.103 

Teas in trenches .. 98 


EX. 


Pergolas. - VII. 

99 

Phloxes. 

1U0 

Phyllocucliis, treatment 


of. 

106 

Pines . 

105 

Plants ami dowers 

99 

Plants, fine-foliaged, for 


rooms. 

105 

Plants for a covered-in 


ditch. 

106 

Plants for tablu decora- 


lion . 

105 

Plants in the house 

102 

Plants under green- 


house etago 

106 

Plumose forms of Neph- 


rolepis. 

102 

Poplar Parasol de St. 


Julien. 

95 


Potatoes, restful .. 98 

Pot - Vines ripening 

Grapes.KB 

Primula japonica .. 100 
Pruning and transplant¬ 
ing .95 

Residue from acetylene 

glut .1*8 

Rhododendron hirsutum 95 
Rhodotypos (White 
Jew's Mallow),. .. 95 

Rose J. B. Clark .. 103 

Roses .103 

Roses, Marshal Niel, in 
a flickly condition .. 106 
Roses, Rambler, potting 106 
Saxifraga apiculata .. 100 
Slugs, destroying ., 106 
Soil, grubs in .. .. 96 


Solanunifl, climbing ., 101 
Strawberry plants fail¬ 
ing .KM 

Superphosphates .. 98 

Trees and shrubs .. 95 

Tuberose in cold-frame 106 
Vegetable garden .. 105 
Vegetable Marrows, cul¬ 
ture of .97 

Vegetables, more Apace 
for better .. 98 

Vines, mealy-bug on .. 94 

Violet culture .. 99 

Violets with yellow 

foliage.100 

Week's work, the com¬ 
ing .105 

Wireworm* .. 96 

Zygopotalums, growing 102 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 

PRUNING AND TRANSPLANTING. 
There is one lesson which is extremely diffi¬ 
cult to teach to planters, especially of ever¬ 
green and other shrubs, and that is the need 
of balancing the heads and the roots of the 
plants when transplanting. In the most care¬ 
ful transplanting we cannot help destroying 
many of the roots, and to leave trees or 
shrubs deprived of half their roots without 
reducing the tops is bad gardening, and yet 
it is very often done. The other day I saw a 
plantation of Hollies which had been recently 
transplanted, and many of the branches 
loose and waving about in the wind, so that 
the roots were disturbed by it. I always take 
off one third of the branch and all the loose 
and straggling ones before a tree or shrub is 
transplanted. It makes it easier for the men 
to get round the bush, and where it is not 
done the plants often die. Many plants are 
more impatient of removal than Hollies. 
Small things like Heaths, which come long 
distances shorn of a part of their roots, I 
should cut down to one-half, or even less. 
Summer-leafing trees also do quite as well if 
we reduce them to one stem to keep them 
out of the wind and balance the tops and 
roots at the same time, and when transplant¬ 
ing such trees late we may even pick the 
leaves off. Two years ago, when forming a 
ride through a wood, we had tu move some 
young Oaks. It was about midsummer time, 
and the probabilities were that we should 
lose them, but I took off every leaf, and the 
result was that after a few weeks the trees 
began to sprout again, and they are now 
in perfect health. 

This would apply to perennial plants also, 
and, indeed, almost everything we transplant. 
The older and rougher the plants the more need 
there is for this repression. If we get very small 
plants from a good tree nursery, we need not 
do this—and, indeed, the state of the plants 
preclude® it. One reason why a very small 
forest-tree does so much better is that it is 
nearly ail root and very little top. Even in 
the ease of Pines, which do not seem to call 
for much priming, when moved rather large 
—say, 4 feet to 6 feet high—we should not 
hesitate to cut off the side shoots. This keeps 
them out of the wind, and they take better. 

I have done this on a large scale with Swiss 
Pines, and have not lost a plant. S. 


Magnolia stellata. -—From the notes that 
have appeared from time to time regarding 
this charming little Magnolia it must be now 
well known—at least, by report—to most 
readers of Gardening. Still, it is such a de¬ 
lightful member of the genus, and one of our 
prettiest early spring-flowering shrubs, that 
its season of blooming cannot be passed over 
without comment. Its natural habit is to 
form a freely branched bush that will flower 
profusely when not more^th^n a couple of feet 
high, thoqgh it attaint greater cWtos 


than this. The comparatively large, promi¬ 
nent buds, which form such a noticeable 
feature throughout the winter, are covered 
with hairy scales, which, where the atmos¬ 
phere is at all impure, become almost black, 
while the bark of the branches is also darkly 
coloured. To this rather sombre winter aspect 
the pure white blossoms afford a direct con¬ 
trast, for, seen in a mass, they are almost 
dazzling in their whiteness. In contour they 
almost suggest the flowers of a white Lily, 
being in this respect very different from the 
cup or chalice-shaped blooms of most of the 
other early-flowering Magnolias. Other desir¬ 
able features of this Magnolia are its thorough 
hardiness, being seldom injured by spring 
frosts, and the fact that it readily lends itself 
to flowering under glass in the greenhouse. A 
few specimens arranged in a bed or clump 
have their beauty considerably enhanced if 
the ground beneath is carpeted with some 
low-growing bulbous plant, such as Seilla 
sibirica.—X. 


RHODOTYPOS (WHITE JEW’S 
MALLOW). 

It is strange that this shrub, so easily grown 
and so free flowering, should be so seldom 
seen. Nearly forty years ago it came to us 
from the gardens of Japan, where, under the 
name Jamabuki, it is much grown, yet in 
spite of its beauty and easy increase it is still 
uncommon. Its specific name is well de¬ 
served, for so closely do the leaves resemble 
those of the Kerria of cottage gardens, that 
at first sight the two shrubs are easily con¬ 
founded, whence its name—with some—of the 
White Kerria. The flowers are, however, 
much finer and more lasting than the small 
and flimsy ones of the single Kerria, and com¬ 
posed of four broad white petals, which dis¬ 
tinguish these from the five-petalled flowers 
common in the Rose-tribe, and make this a 
monotypic genus. The flowers open during 
May and June, and are followed by shining 
black fruits like the grains of a Blackberry, 
which remain all winter. 

Few shrubs give less trouble, its shape 
being good, its growth not too rank, while it 
will grow in any soil, though, perhaps, hap¬ 
piest and most profuse in flower in those of a 
eandy nature. It is sometimes grown against 
walls, as at Kew, and while seldom more than 
6 feet high in the open, it will soon cover a 
6pace of 12 feet or more high and wide when 
trained in this way. Most gardeners, how¬ 
ever, will prefer to keep their wall space for 
things more delicate, and being quite hardy 
this does well enough in the open. Increase 
is easy by cuttings of green wood under glass 
early in the summer, or of ripe wood planted 
deeply in the open during autumn. The seeds 
also ripen and germinate freely if sown with¬ 
out delay, and suckers from the root are some¬ 
times available also. Siebold, who sent this 
shrub from Japan, failed to find it there as a 
wild plant, though he was told that it grew on 
hillsides in the Province of Kiusiu. Mr. Sar 


gent, however, seems to regard it as probably 
a native of China, imported long since, and, 
perhaps, naturalised in parts of Japan. 

B. 


THE COMMON LAUREL. 

I quite agree with the note in Gardening of 
March 23rd on the above subject , but granted 
that you grub Laurels out and burn them, 
what is likely to grow satisfactorily in their 
place, unless a lot of the old soil can be cleared 
away and fresh soil substituted—Rhododen¬ 
dron ponticum, Berberis, Gorsc, and Brooin, 
perhaps, but hardly any good things, either 
deciduous or evergreen. There was, and still 
is, a great quantity of the common Laurel in 
the pleasure grounds here—acres of it between 
twenty and thirty years ago—that required 
annual clipping, and sometimes splashing, to 
keep it within bound«s. I have cleared big 
brakes as time and labour would permit, but 
found it, as mentioned above, very difficult to 
get any good things in the way of shrubs to do 
any good, and so have fallen back upon the 
hardier bulbs to replace the Laurels. My 
own experience (I shall be glad of correction 
if wrong) is that ground tenanted with 
Laurels for generations is full of fungoid 
growth, just as we find in a wide area round 
old Beeches whose roots are nearly all gone, 
and in which, when the Beeches are removed, 
nothing except the very hardiest things can* 
be induced to grow. E. Burrell. 


Rhododendron hirsutum.— Having read “X.’a ” 
interesting article in Gardening of March 9th, p. 23, 
on “ Alpine Rhododendrons,” may I mention that 
having heard R. hirsutum was the only lime-loving 
one of the species, I planted it here. It is very 
happy, and covered with blossoms. It is a great con¬ 
trast to the unhappy Rhododendrons of other sorts 
that I see stuck into peat-filled holes in limestone 
districts. The lime always seems to filter in, and 
their life is a 6low death.—O xford. 

Poplar. Parasol de St. Julien.— This term Is 
often applied to the weeping variety of the Aspen 
(Populus tremula), which in the early days of March 
forms a very noticeable feature by reason of the 
long, pendulous catkins with which it is thickly 
studded. The habit of the tree is for a Poplar a 
very striking one, forming as it docs an open, spread¬ 
ing head of branches with the minor branehlets all 
more or less pendulous. The catkins, each from 
3 inches to 4 inches long, and cylindrical in shape, 
are not remarkable for brightness of colouring, being 
of a soft brownish hue; but from their light, flexible 
nature they are almost as restless as the leaves of the 
typical Aspen. The fact that this Poplar is so far 
attractive while as yet most trees are still quite 
dormant is another noteworthy feature. Like all of 
its class, it needs a fairly moist soil. 

Cassinla fulvida.— A distinct-looking, 
half-shrubby plant, of a pretty yellowish hue. 
It appears to be hardy, and easily grown over 
a large area of our country, but best looking 
in warm and open soils. It is more effective 
in groups than when planted in the usual dot¬ 
ting way. It is evergreen, and carries its 
pleasant colour throughout the year. Best 
suited for bold rock gardening, or a place 
among dwarf shrubs. A native of New Zea¬ 
land, it is usually known in gardens as Dip- 
lopappus chrysophyllus. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 















96 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


April 20, 1907 



EUCItYPHIAS. rib. The young wood is also downy. The 

The Eucryphias vary in stature from flowers are white, and produced singly in the 
medium-sized shrubs to trees as much os leaf axils. The tree ie said to be abundant in 
100 feet high, and all of them, the ugh still very the island of Clnloe and on the mainland in 
rare in cultivation, are plants of great beauty Valdivia. 

and interest. There are, however, only four E. Moorei.— For many years E. Billardieri 
species known at presont, two being found in was the only species known to exist in Aus- 
Chili and two in Australia and Tasmania, tralasia. The late Sir F. Mueller, however, 
The Eucryphias have no known close rela- found a second species about a quarter of a 
tives, and their place in the vegetable king- century ago in New South Wales, and gave 
dom consequently is doubtful. Sir Joseph it the above name. There is little to be said 
Hooker places them 
in the Rose family, 
but other authorities 
have variously put 
them with the Hype¬ 
ricums (whose flowers 


are very similar), the 
Saxifragas, and the 
Limes. The foliage 
affords another 
method of dividing 
the genus, two species 
having their leaves 
simple (or undivided) 
and two divided (pin¬ 
nate). It is curious 
that one of each kind 
occurs in Chili and 
Australia, as the fol¬ 
lowing shows : — 

Chilian. — (1) E. 
pinnatifolia, pinnate 
leaves. (2) E. cordi- 
tolia, simple leaves. 

Australian. — (3) 

E. Moorei, pinnate 
leaves. (4) E. Bil¬ 
lardieri, simple 
leaves. 

With the exception 
of E. pinnatifolia, 
which is sometimes 
deciduous in this 
country, they are all 
evergreen. E. Moorei 
is not in cultivation, 
and cf the remainder 
E. pinnatifolia is the 
only one that has succeeded well in the 
open air. I do not know whether the others 
have been grown out of-doors in the milder 
parts of these islands, but they are certainly 
worth trying. They should be planted in a 
rather light soil, in which there is a propor¬ 
tion of leaf soil and peat. Like most Chilian 
and Tasmanian plants, they require mild and 
moist conditions. During not, dry seasons it 
has, in inland districts, at any rale, been diffi¬ 
cult to establish E. pinnatifolia, but. it. is cer- 
• tainly worthy of every care that can be given 
it. 

E. Billardieri.— Th«‘ only time 1 have 
seen this in flower was in 1891, when it 
flowered in a greenhouse at Kew. It is an 
evergreen tree occurring wild at various ele¬ 
vations on the mountains of Tasmania. It 
has small, narrow, oblong leaves, 1 inch to 
3 inches long, not divided or cut in any way ; 
they are dark, glossy green above, grey be¬ 
neath, and of firm, somewhat leathery, tex¬ 
ture. The flowers are fonr-petalled, white, 
short-stalked, and from 1 inch to 2 inches 
across, being smaller and less showy than 
those of E. pinnatifolia. At the lower limits 
of its distribution in Tasmania this Eucrypliin 
is a tree occasionally 100 feet in height. 
Higher up the mountains it becomes much 
smaller and shrubby. It is this more alpine 
form that has flowered at Kew, and which Sir 
J. Hooker has distinguished as variety Milli- 
ganii. For growing outside it. would, no 
doubt. l>e best. It would probably thrive 
against a wall, or, iu Cornwall, quite unpro¬ 
tected. 

E. COKD1FOLIA. Although much commoner , 
in a wild state than its nearest neighbour, E. 
pinnatifolia, and introduced to this country 
in 1851, this species has not spread in gardens 
so much. For one thing it is not so hardy. 
It has been planted against a wall at Kew, 
but has never become really established there. 
From E. pinnatifolia and E. Billardieri it is 
abundantly distinct. Its leaves are oblong, 
each inch to 3 inches long, crenated at the 
margin, heart-shangd-^t the base,|dull green 
and downy, especially Mfttlie ^tSlIhSfed mid- 


A flowering shoot of Eucryphin pinnatifolia. 


about it, for it has never, so far as I know, 
been introduced to Britain. In any case it is 
probably less hardy than any of the other 
three. Like the Chilian E. pinnatifolia it has 
pinnate leaves, but the leaflets are more 
numerous, and the flowers are white. 

E. PINNATIFOLIA. —Introduced to thus coun¬ 
try from Chili by Messrs. Veitch about 30 
years ago, this species, a flowering shoot of 
which we figure to-day, has proved to be by 
far the most valuable of the three Eucryphias 
in cultivation. Not so easy to establish in 


new quarters as most shrubs are, it, never¬ 
theless, appears, when once well started, to 
be quite hardy in a climate not more severe 
than that of the London district. In its first 
home in England—the Coombe Wood Nur¬ 
sery—it has succeeded perfectly, and a speci¬ 
men there is, perhaps, the finest in Britain. 
Even in its native country it is very rare, and 
has a very local habitat. It has only been 
found on the Cordillera of Concep^on, and 
is called “ Nirrhe” by the Chilians. Gay, 
the Chilian botanist, makes the first mention 
of this shrub in 1845. He found it on the 
rocky banks of the River Biobio, where in its 
largest state it becomes a small tree, 10 feet 
to 15 feet high, but usually it is shrubby. 
Its branches are somewhat erect, and bear the 
leaves in a cluster towards the end. The 
leaf is composed of three or five leaflets, 
which are of a dark, lustrous green, 1£ inch to 
inches long, and toothed. The flowers, 
being produced in July and August, are valu¬ 
able as coming when shrubs in bloom are 
scarce. They are borne singly or in pairs, 
and measure about 3 inches across ; the four 
petals are pure white. The numerous long 
stamens with their yellow anthers give char¬ 
acter and an added beauty to the flower. This 
species has produced perfect seed in this 
country. The seeds arc produced in hard, 
woody capsules. Although seeds germinate 
freely, young plants are not always easy to 
raise from them. The species can, however, 
be increased by layers. B. 


GARDEN PESTS AND FRIENDS. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Mealy bug on Vines.- Kindly inform me what I 
can do for mealy-bug on a Vine? An old Genista in 
the vinery I found badly affected, and promptly burnt 
it. Now there are signs of the pest in the joints of 
the Vine. The young growths are about a foot long, 
and on some of these appear a few small, clear in¬ 
sects' eggs—these, I presume, have nothing to do with 
the bug? The Vine was thoroughly scraped and 
painted last year.—L ex. 

[Seeing that your Vines are so far advanced 
in growth, the only thing you can do is to pro¬ 
cure some methylated spirit, and with a camel- 
hair brush touch the insects where you see 
them. This will at once destroy them, and 
will not injure the Vines, as the spirit quickly 
evaporates. You must, however, persevere, 
otherwise the pest will soon overrun the 
Vines. We may tell you that merely washing 
the Vines avails little. You ought to have 
thoroughly cleaned the house, and repainted 
it at the same time, clearing away the surface 
soil from the border, and burying it.] 

Grubs in soil — I am sending you some grubs I 
And in my mould. Will you kindly tell me what they 
are, and if they are injurious to plants, ns 1 wanted 
, to use some of the soil for Cucumbers?—F. R. W. 

[The grubs you find in your mould are those 
of the “ St. Mark’s-fly,” or another species 
| belonging to the genus Bibio. They are cer- 
I tainly injurious to the roots of plants at times, 

' and I should not attempt to grow plants in 
soil infested by them. If you spread the 
mould out thinly somewhere where the birds 
could scratch it about, they would, I expect, 
soon pick them out. The grubs are nearly 
full grown, and will very soon bo turning into 
chrysalides, in which condition they are harm¬ 
less.—G. S. S.] 

Wireworms.— Kindly name enclosed insects in 
small tin box, and state if injurious to plants?— 
Alladonian. 

[The insects you sent are wireworms, and 
are most injurious garden pests. No insecti- 
) cide appears to have any effect on them when 
l they are in the soil. They may be trapped by 
burying elicdb of Turnips, Mangel-Wurtzel. 
Carrots, or Potatoes just below the surface 
near plants which are attacked by them. 
Stick a small skewer into each to show where 
it i6. Pieces of oil-cake are also very attrac¬ 
tive to them. Examine the traps every morn¬ 
ing.—G. S. S.] 


“The English Flower Garden and Home 

Grounds."— Edition, 10th, revised, with descrip¬ 
tions of all the best plants , trees, and shrubs, their 
culture and arrangement, illustrated on wood. Cloth, 
medium, 8vo., 15s .; post free, 15s. 6d. 

“The English Flower Garden" may also be 
had finely bound in 5 vols., half morocco, V#. nett. Of 
WUmknn«D I vi iLLlIvvIJ Ml 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


April 20, 1907 


GARDENING IL L UST1L1TED. 


1)7 



CULTURE OF VEGETA- 
BLE MARROWS. 


VEGETABLES. 

PURPLE SPROUTING BROCCOLI. 
Few vegetables are more useful than the 
Sprouting Broccoli, and the produco is so 
good when cooked that I am surprised more 
plants are not grown in private gardens. For 
market it is a great favourite, as one may cut 
and come again, and there is always a ready 
sale for sturdy growths. I find that the 
purple variety is hardier than the Avhite form, 
and when cooked with its leaves there can be 
no objection to the colour, as it is of a uice 


tion in market fields, where planted in many 
acres. But when the time for marketing 
comes, and that not regulated so much by the 
condition of the Broccoli, but rather by the 
supply of other green matter in the market, 
the growers without waiting for full 6prout 
development ruthlessly cut off the heads, thus 
sending to market a huge quantity of inedible 
matter, stems, and coarse, hard leafage, and 
at the same time giving the public to eat only 
such poor new or young growth as may then 
have formed. It is our very foolish, but usual, 
method of sending this badly used winter 
green to market, and it is uo matter for sur¬ 


not popularise the sprouts with all, but cer¬ 
tainly all lovers of good winter greens find 
nothing better to eat than are these sprouting 
Broccoli shoots. 

Some effort has been made here and there 
to obtain a white sprouting variety, and not 
without considerable success, so far as sprout 
production is concerned, but none of these 
have that element of thorough hardiness 
which always marks the purple sprouting 
form. It is not well where a long supply of 
winter greens is needed, and ground is abun¬ 
dant, to restrict sowings to one only. If one 
be made at the end of March or early in 
April, and from that one 
sowing two plantings at in¬ 
tervals of three weeks may 
be made, it is wise to make 
a second sowing early in 
May, as then plants can be 
had to put out in August 
and September, not to 
make large heads of 
sprouts, but rather to con¬ 
tinue the supply up to as 
late a period in the spring 
as possible. If the first 
plantings be made between 
rows of Potatoes, a com¬ 
mon practice, the later 
ones can follow early 
Onions, Potatoes, Peas, 
Beans, or similar crops. 
These later ones also may 
be planted much closer to¬ 
gether than the previous 
ones are, as the plants will 
be less large ultimately. It 
is a vegetable which helps 
the gardener to bridge over 
the interval between 
Christmas and spring. 

A. D. 


The Purple Sprouting Broccoli. 


green. To do well the sprouting varieties of 
Broccoli must have an open position. They 
do well when planted after early Potatoes 
have been dug, and give a heavy crop during 
March and April. The late Mr. Barron used 
to consider the Purple Sprouting Broccoli 
one of our finest vegetables. T. 

-At once one of the most useful, pro¬ 
ductive, hardy, and widely grown of all the 
winter green family, yet is this most excel¬ 
lent sprouting Broccoli far too generally in¬ 
differently treated. To see it at its best we 
must look to good private gardens, where cul¬ 
ture is of the highest. Up to a certain stage 
of growth also it is ofyiTfreci^in go^I|cQjidi- 




prise if under such conditions prices rank 
low, the Broccoli being regarded as a mere 
catch crop, and no more. Now, in private 
gardens, or even on allotments, growers 
knowing the reproductive character of this 
green, as also how tender and delicious its 
sprouts when well cooked, do not thus kill it, 
but rather encourage it to continue pro¬ 
ducing its purple sprouts until nature is fully 
exhausted, and that may be on an ordinary 
breadth, from the first pulling of sprouts, a 
period of from six to eight weeks. In such 
case nothing is gathered but what is edible, 
and also has the purple-tipped Broccoli-like 
points. It may be that this dark colour does 


The middle of April is a 
suitable time to sow seeds 
—two in a 4-inch pot, using 
turfy loam and a small 
quantity of manure. Place 
the pots in a little bottom- 
heat, if at command, where 
the seeds will quickly ger¬ 
minate, giving little, if 
any, water until the seeds 
are through, as they are 
liable to decay if kept 
too wet. Discard the 
weakest plant, and stand 
the pot pretty close to the 
glass in a little warmth— 
h5 degs. will do, with a rise 
of temperature during the 
day, sun heat being better 
for them than much fire- 
heat. Shift into 6-inch 
pots as soon as the roots 
reach the bottom of the 
crocks, and support the 
plant with a stake. Within 
a month from sowing it will 
be safe to plant them out 
on mounds of leaf-soil and 
manure, giving a small 
amount of bottom-heat,. At 
this early season hand- 
lights or cldches will be 
necessary, and if several 
plants have to be put out, 
a suitable distance will be 
6 feet asunder, placing two 
bushels of turfy loam in each light, a 
few days before planting out. Keep them 
close and shaded for a couple of day6, 
and air carefully, should the wind be 
strong, when, after a week, the light 
may be taken off for a few hours daily, 
when the weather is warm. Early in 
June the plants ought to be making free 
growth, when three bricks may be placed 
under the bottom of the handlight and the 
growths allowed to push out. In the middle 
of June the plants ought to be fully exposed 
and water given whenever it becomes neces- 
! sary. They should also be pegged down to 
prevent, the wind twisting the collar or break- 





98 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Apbil 20, 1907 


ing them off. When about 12 inches long the 
point of the shoot ought to be nipped out, so 
as to have about four shoots, keeping them a 
fair distance apart. Do not allow fruit to 
form too soon, and check their growth, and 
give weak manure-water every alternate 
watering as soon as they begin to fruit; no 
other stopping of the shoots is required, un¬ 
less any one is growing to the disadvantage 
of the others. Moore’s Cream, Long White, 
and Hibberd’s Prolific arc a good trio. 

Devonian. 


PEAS IN TRENCHES. 


It is a well-known fact that Peas are more in¬ 
fluenced by periods of dry weather than any 
other vegetable. The absence of 1 inch of 
rain at a time when the Peas aro “ slatting ” 
makes all the difference, and in light soils will 
cause either complete or partial failure. The 
month of June is very frequently trying. If 
we get frequent showers the bine will acquire 
strength, the roots will get a firm hold of the 
ground, and even if later on there should 
come a dry time the pods will fill up fairly 
well. The safest way is to make provision 
for a supply of moisture at the critical period. 
This can easily be done by planting in 
trenches. I havo just been looking over the 
garden of a cottager who takes many prizes 
for vegetables, and he was at that time getting 
his trenches ready. The soil is taken out 
about 1 foot in depth, some manure is placed 
at the bottom so that the roots find it just as 
the pods begin to fill. The trenches are not 
quite filled up, sufficient space being allowed 
to admit of the entry of water later on. All 
who have had experience in gardening know 
how difficult it is to thoroughly moisten soil 
that has become quite dry. The only way to 
do so is to make a basin round the plant or 
tree, and fill it up with water, so that every 
drop goes directly to the roots. By sowing 
Peas so that a shallow' trench remains when 
they are in full growth it is easy to supply 
them with the necessary liquid nourishment 
just when they most need it. One good soak¬ 
ing will often make all the difference between 
a satisfactory crop and a partial failure. 

Byfleet. 


GROWING CUCUMBERS IN FRAMES. 

(Reply to “ Violet.”) 

To be successful in growing Cucumbers in 
frames the necessary details that arise from 
day to day must be strictly attended to or 
failure, wholly or in part, must be the inevit¬ 
able result. You must make up a hot-bed 
of warm manure on which to plant, procure 
loamy soil of a light or sandy nature, and 
place about a barrowload in the centre of 
each light. This will be sufficient for plant¬ 
ing in ; more can be added later on when 
the roots have spread over the surface of the 
bed. If the loam is of a suitable nature 
nothing need be added to it; but if the soil 
is poor, mix with it a little decayed manure, 
say a sixth part. Give water according to 
the state of the weather and when the soil 
needs it, which, if sunny, would be almost 
every day. When necessary give sufficient 
to soak the soil through. If dryness is per¬ 
mitted mildew may intervene or the plants 
become attacked with red-spider, if they did 
not actually 6corch with the 6un. Cucum¬ 
bers can be grown when properly tended 
without any shade, but in the case of the in¬ 
experienced a slight shade is advisable, but 
only sufficient to break the sun’s rays with¬ 
out making it dense. The shade would make 
the leaves thin and weak, and fruit produc¬ 
tion could not then reasonably be expected 
to be satisfactory. When in full growth and 
in bearing a weak stimulant is good for them, 
soot-wnter or a little guano soaked in water 
answering the purpose. Ventilation must 
be given when there is sunshine, opening the 
frame early and before the sun gains much 
power. This will depend on the position of 
the frame. If it faces south, give air about 
8.30 ; if it is towards the east it would catch 
the sun earlier, and the lights would need to 
be opened before that time. Increase the air 
by degrees, not throwing the frame open wide 
at once. Close about three in the afternoon, 




syringe or a fine rosed pot. The 8yringe is 
best, because the leaves can be wetted on the 
undersides, which is necessary to keep down 
insects. Always use chilled water for this 
and the soil when watering, because cold 
water is highly injurious. Stopping of the 
ehoots is a very important item in Cucumber 
growing. If this is neglected the crop of 
fruit will be scant and leaves plentiful. As¬ 
suming your plants to be some 9 inches high 
when planted, the points should be pinched 
out. This will cause several shoots to issue 
from the leaf joints below, and as these ex¬ 
tend to about three or four leaves pinch them 
again, and continue this all through the 
season. Should your frame become too 
crowded with leaves, thin out some of the 
growths, carefully cutting out those which 
have no fruit on them. Do not allow the 
Cucumbers to become very large, aa this 
taxes the plants unduly, and causes them for 
a time to cease hearing. The lights are best 
covered at night. In cold and sunless 
weather keep the lights closed. 

You will want one plant in each light. If 
you have to depend on the hot bed for your 
supply of Cucumbers you must not be in too 
great a hurry to plant out unless you have 
abuudance of manure, and can keep up the 
temperature in the frame by linings of 
manure. If you cannot do this, then the 
middle of May will be quite aeon enough for 
you to make a start.] 


MORE SPACE FOR BETTER VEGE¬ 
TABLES. 

It is the rule in most English gardens to give 
far too much space to eoarse things like Cab¬ 
bages, Potatoes, etc., and far too little to the 
more delicate and nutritious kinds, 6omo of 
which are, indeed, not represented at all, or 
ao badly grown as to be useless for the cook. 
The Potatoes, Greens, and other things that 
go with our ordinary dishes, are the very 
coarsest, least nutritious, and most indiges¬ 
tible of all, and there can be no fairly com¬ 
prehensive idea of this branch of human ali¬ 
mentation which does not include the vege¬ 
tables which aro served abroad us dishes by 
themselves, and, indeed, are quite worthy to 
at and alone. Among others we have Scorzo- 
nera, Salsify, Lettuce, and Endive—with 
us there is great waste in not using Lettuce 
and Endive, and particularly the Batavian 
Endive, as braised vegetables; for good 
cookery they are far more important than 
Greens. Celeriac, an excellent vegetable, is 
rarely well grown with us. Cardoons are 
first-rate vegetables fur our country, for 
which soil and climate are well suited, and 
which ought to be regularly grown. Indian 
Corn, too, thrives in all the southern parts 
of the country, and. well grown, forms an ex¬ 
cellent vegetable. Then there are Artichokes 
in the best varieties, edible-podded Runner 
Beans, edible-podded dwarf Beans, early 
and email Carrots, Witloof, Corn Salad, 
and Kohl Rabi. The variety of delici¬ 
ous Gourds available during summer, and 
in keeping kinds through a great part 
of the winter, is a revelation to Britons who 
know nothing beyond the Vegetable Marrow. 
The Egg Plant, when delicately cooked, 
sliced, and fried, is a good summer vegetable, 
and the edible-podded Peas of spring are 
equally good when served as a French cook 
knows so well how. In these matters our in¬ 
sular conservatism is at fault in failing to re¬ 
cognise the food value of these and other 
appetising vegetables ; and even when they 
are tried, our habit of serving them with a 
hodge-podge of meats and other strong 
flavours, prevents appreciation of their own 
fine flavour. Rustious. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Superphosphates. -I have a quantity of super¬ 
phosphate, and am thinkins of usinu it for Roses. 
Will you please tell me if it is suitable as a manure, 
mid, if so, in what quantities it should he used? 1 
also want to use it for CJrass.—THORTE. 

[There are different kinds of phosphates, 
varying, of course, in their composition, but 
you can take it that they are all useful 
manures for Grass and for garden crops gene¬ 
rally, particularly for such things as Turnips. 
Exact information as to tfie effect of manures 


on different classes of flowering plants is not 
plentiful, but there is no reason for supposing 
that an application of superphosphate to 
those in ordinary cases could be anything but 
beneficial. In regard to artificial manures 
generally, however, it is necessary to insist on 
the fact that their profitable and wise use de¬ 
pends on the character of the soil and its pre¬ 
vious treatment. For example, superphos¬ 
phate is mainly a phosphatic manure, and it 
will not make up for a deficiency of potash or 
nitrogen in the soil, although some bone super¬ 
phosphates—“dissolved bones”—contain an 
appreciable quantity of nitrogen. You can 
use at the rate of 4 ewt. or 5 cwt. per acre.] 
Kale Chou de Russe. I would strongly 
commend to Mr. Burrell (March 23rd, p. hi) 
an entirely new Kale, which has stood the 
winter most admirably at Wisley. It is there 
grown as Chou de Russe, and was sent by 
Messrs. Jas. Carter and Co., of Ilolborn. 
This Kale was so good that, when seen by 
the vegetable committee of the Royal Horti¬ 
cultural Society a fortnight since, an award 
of merit was at once granted it. Then, when 
heads of it were presented to the full com¬ 
mittee at the Horticultural Hall, on March 
19th, a first-class certificate was unanimously 
granted to it. The Kale was quite unknown 
to all present. It is very bushy, compact, 
grows to 18 inches in height, carries massive 
heads of finely cut leafage, and sprouts freely 
all down the steins. I have tasted these 
cooked, and found them delicious. Of all 
hardy Kales this seems to be the hardiest. 
From the same firm, and securing an award 
of merit, was a dwarf Moss Curled Kale of 
great excellence.—D. 

Restful Potatoes. I recently received a 
few seed tubers of Factor Potato from Dun¬ 
bar, Scotland, and was invited to note their 
exceeding restfulness. That inactivity, it was 
assumed, vas the key to the wonderful suc¬ 
cess which attends growing Potatoes from 
Scotch seed stocks in the south. Oddly 
enough, I examined the same day that the 
Scotch seed arrived the varieties stored in 
my Potato-shed at the Education Office, and 
which were grown in Surrey last year, and 
found Factor, with some other of the late or 
main crop varieties, to be quite as restful; 
therefore, the dormancy of the Scotch tubers 
was in no respect singular. Later, when I 
have planted Scotch, Irish, Midland, and 
Surrey tubers in several varieties side by side, 
and growth has followed, 1 shall be able to 
note which gives the best growth. I think 
we must look to some other solution of the 
interesting problem presented by the robust 
growth seen from Scotch seed, and that from 
Surrey seed, all other things being equal.— 
A. I). 

Residue from acetylene gas. -Inquiries 
are frequently made ns to the commercial 
value of the lime compounds left behind in 
the generators in which acetylene gas is pre¬ 
pared by acting upon calcium carbide with 
water. Analysis of a sample of such residue 
has been made by Messrs. F. B. Guthrie and 
A. A. Ramsay, who give the following results 
in a recent numlier of the Agricultural Gazette 
of New South Wales : — 

Per cent. 


Moisture. 41.30 

Combined water, carbonic acid, and organic 

matter. 16.37 

Insoluble matter . 1.08 

Oxides of iron and alumina. 6.41 

Lime . S6.19 

Magnesia. 0.24 


ioo.e:» 

There are small quantities of sulphur-com¬ 
pounds (sulphides) present. With the excep¬ 
tion of these, which are present in quantities 
too small to be harmful, there aro no de¬ 
leterious substances present. The value of 
this product is due entirely to the lime it con¬ 
tains. other plant foods, such as nitrogen, 
potash, and phosphates being absent. The 
lime is present either ns slaked lime (in fresh 
samples) or carbonate of lime (mild lime), in 
samples which have been exposed to the air. 
It should prove an effective and cheap dress¬ 
ing for all purposes for which liming is re¬ 
commended, and should be of special value 
on Boils which are sour and deficient of lime 
or inclined to be stiff, and as a top-dressing 
for pastures. 









Amu, 20, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


99 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

OUTDOOR PLANTS. 

PERGOLAS.—VII. 


tied loosely in winter. In that way the 
, shoots of Vine and Wistaria can be seen in 
their natural grace of form, fcnd at all angles, 
both below and above the pergola, and from 
I several different points of view, a distinct gain 
in every way. R. 


This largo and bold pergola—one of the ‘ 

largest 1 have made—has several objects. VIOLET CULTURE. 

Ihe first is to hide some objectionable views, : i would be glad of any information on the culture of 
the second is to give a charming background ] the Violet?— Chlob. 

to a large portion of the garden ; and the third [The culture of Violets in some places is 
is to grow a fine collection mostly of the easy enough ; in others it is fraught with so 
coloured-leaved Vines, which are splendid much difficulty as to seriously tax the re- 
things to finish the autumn garden with, i sources of the growers. Broadly speaking, 
Other . climbers there will be also, but the i in the west and north of England and in Ire- 
Vines in their summer and autumn beauty are | land it is possible to obtain a good supply 
the best of all. I of this fragrant flower during the winter and 

The structure, as may be seen by the illus- spring with no more labour than is necessary 
tratiou, is very simple. The 14-inch pillars i in the case of hardy flowers generally. In 
are of brown stock brick—the best material to the southern and eastern counties, on the 
be had in the district. The distance between contrary, Violets frequently demand a lot of 
the pillars is 10 feet, the side pillars 14 feet 1 attention during the growing time. These 
apart. The cross beams, 15 feet long, are remarks apply more particularly to the 
8 inches by 8 inches, and are of Fir and Oak l double kinds that are used for yielding a 


early in February, leaving the lumps as large 
as possible, so that frosts and wind may 
penetrate and thoroughly sweeten them. To¬ 
wards the end of March break the lumps and 
well stir the ground with a fork, adding 
manure of some kind. There is nothing bet¬ 
ter than the semi-decayed material that 
comes from disused hot beds, and where there 
is decayed garden refuse at command a 
liberal amount of this should be added. In 
the case of very poor light soils some manure 
should be worked into the soil, top-dressing 
also with fresh dung after planting. This 
prevents evaporation, and admits of the free 
entry of water when applied in the summer 
time. The great enemy of the Violet is red- 
spider. If once the plants are attacked by 
this pest it can never be thoroughly dis¬ 
lodged. The constant aim of the cultivator 
should be to keep it at bay by means of fre¬ 
quent copious waterings in hot, dry weather, 
and daily overhead sprinklings just as the sun 
is decreasing in power in the afternoon. Some 
growers divide their old plants, others prefer 



Pergola in course of construction and !>cfore planting. 


stubs that grew in the place. The long side 
pieces are of Larch, and 4 inches bv 5 inches. 
The trellising is of native Chestnut, the best 
material. The path is 10 feet wide between 
the pillars. 

I have thought it best to show this per¬ 
gola in course of construction ; a year or two 
hence it will be a very beautiful gain to the 
garden. People, unfortunately, are much 
given to what they call keeping things 
in shape, ns shown by clipping Hollies 
into the shape of a mop, and every other 
evergreen that comes under their blind shears. 
The same shearing is applied to walls 
to some extent. Climbing shrubs on walls 
are over-pruned—crucified, in fact—so that 
the beautiful natural toss and freedom of 
these plants—the most graceful of all in habit 
—are rarelv seen. Therefore, I think that a 
Pimple, well-made pergola is the greatest 
improvement ever made in our gardens 
of recent years, because with it we 
have perfect freedom and grace of growth. 
The plants, run as they may, should seldom be 
touched in summer, and The main hrinches 


supply of flowers during the dull months of 
, the year. They are much more delicate than 
the single varieties, and require more cul¬ 
tural care to get them to bloom well. 

Position. —This should be regulated by 
the nature of the soil and the locality. In 
the southern counties, and where the soil is 
light, it is best to select a position where the 
sun passes away from the plants about mid¬ 
day, and in very warm districts they may be 
grown on a north border, but where the sun 
i comes in early morning and again in the 
afternoon. In low lying districts, where the 
natural staple is heavy, more sun is needful. 
If planted in a semi-shaded position they 
make a rank growth, and the crowns do not 
mature sufficiently. In the northern parts 
of this country Violets will not get too much | 
sun, and should be set out where they are 
fully exposed to sunshine and breezes. 

Culture. —Planting must be done not 
earlier than the middle of March and not 
later than the middle of the following month. 
Heavy, moisture-holding soils require a lot j 
' of preparation, and should be roughly dug ! 


to use the runners made in autumn. 1 have 
tried both ways and found no difference. If 
runners are used, it is better to take them 
| off and dibble them into light compost a 
; couple of inches apart, protecting with frames 
against the vicissitudes of our winter climate. 
By planting time they will be furnished with 
a nice lot of roots, and will go away quickly 
into free growth. In the case of the double 
kinds the plants may be put 8 inches apart, 
hut the more gross-habited singles, such as 
j California and Princess of Wales, require a 
couple of inches more space. Keep them 
free from weeds by the frequent use of the 
hoc, and cut off all runners that form until 
the middle of September. 

Culture in frames.—B y the end of Octo 
her the plants will have completed their 
growth, and can then, when required, be put 
into their winter quarters. The frame should 
be in a sunny position, preferably facing 
south, the soil should be rather light, and the 
plants, when placed therein, should come to 
within 6 inches of the glass. Give a good 
watering to settle the earth round the roots, 












100 


GARDENING ILL UNI RATED. 


ArniL 20, 1907 


and little or no more water will be required 
until March, or even later. In frosty weather 
the glass should be covered with mats or 
straw, but except in a time of sharp frost air 
must be left on at night. It is only free 
ventilation that will keep down damp, and 
the plants should be looked over occasionally 
and decaying leaves removed. If any symp¬ 
toms of mildew appear, dust the undersides 
of the leaves with sulphur.—B. S.] 


CREEPER CLAD HOUSES. 

I was at a meeting a few weeks ago at which 
one of the speakers advocated the sweeping 
away of a number of slums in the town and 
building decent dwellings, with gardens 
attached, in which working men could, and 
would, take an interest, when someone in the 
audience shouted, “Ah! give us a chance of 
a garden and a bit of country in the town.” 
I was much struck with the latter part of 
the sentence, and thought of many houses 
that I knew' where, with creepers and win¬ 
dow-boxes, something of the country had 
been brought into many a town. What, I 
ask, is more refreshing in the heart of a city 
than to come across a house covered with 
flowers, and upon which it is patent some 
special interest is centred by someone who 
is fond of gardening? I venture to say that 
at no other time was greater interest mani¬ 
fest in the outward “furnishing” of a house 
than there is to-day, and at no other period 
were there so mnny creeping and climbing 
plants offered for sale than there are to-day. 
You may live in an unpretentious-looking 
house, but, with the aid of suitable climbers, 
you may completely transform the walls and 
have a beautiful display for many weeks to¬ 
gether. If you live out of the “smoke 
radius,” you may have a wealth of Roses 
around your home that, if they arc not the 
envy of passers-by, will at least give much 
pleasure to those who daily pass your door. 
You may, if you are in a town, so adorn your 
walls with Clematises that the before, per¬ 
haps, sombre-looking dwelling wilL scarcely 
be recognised. Perhaps, too, you may de¬ 
sire a creeper that, like the Rose, will yield 
fragrance as well as beauty, and, if this be 
the case, the Honeysuckle will scent the air 
in the long summer days. But if you cannot 
have permanent creepers, you can, at least, 
make a summer display, and to this end you 
will be able to plant the Canary Creeper, 
with its pale yellow blossoms, or the brighter- 
coloured flowering Tropmolums, and those 
passing your door unaccustomed to seeing 
your walls so decorated, will possibly say, as 
I heard someone say last year where creepers 
had been planted for the first time over the 
front of the house. “Who would have be¬ 
lieved flowers could make a house look so 
different?” Woodbastwick. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Indian Corn growing -Would one of your 
readers kindly tell me how to grow Indian Corn? Will 
it grow from the Maize which is sold to feed poultry, 
and when should it be sown? I tried it last year, and 
failed absolutely. — B. HtCKSON. 

[In dull, sunless summers this crop is 
usually a failure in this country, but, given 
a comparatively hot and dry summer, it suc¬ 
ceeds admirably. A sheltered, sunny spot 
should be chosen for Indian Corn, and this 
ought to be thoroughly manured and trenched 
during winter, leaving the surface as rough as 
possible till spring. The seed should be sown 
about the middle of April, thinly, in boxes, in 
heat, and be made quite secure against mice. 
The young plants are very tender, so care 
must be taken to properly harden them off in 
cold-frames before planting out, which should 
be done towards the end of May. The ground 
should be pricked over and made fine, after 
which plant in rows 3 feet apart and 18 inches 
from plant to plant. Abundance of water 
must be given at the roots during dry 
weather, and frequent hoeing to promote 
quick growth. A sowing may also be made 
the last week in April. The seed should be 
Ianted with a dibber and buried 3 inches, 
t is advisable to plant just as thick again 
as it is intended to grow the plants, thinning 
out when large enough to the proper dis¬ 
tance. Some of this sowing may also be 
transplanted, if rcquuTJih but the prlctice of 

Digitized by GO glC 


sowing under glass is much to be preferred. 
The cobs of Corn should be gathered when 
fresh and green, and when well grown it is 
surprising what a large quantity a small piece 
of ground will produce. You can easily raise 
plants from the Maize used for poultry, but it 
is far better to pay a few pence more and get 
some good variety from a seedsman.] 

Moss in lawn.— I have a small plot of Grass. 
Moss began to appear on it some time ago, and is 
rapidly spreading. I have given it a dressing of lime 
and lawn sand, but, it does not seem to have alfected 
it. 1 should say the plot gets very little sun at any 
time of year. Please say what is the causo and cure? 
-C. K. 

[The cause of the Moss in your case is very 
clear, as you say that the lawn gets very little 
sun at any time of the year. Moss forms in 
lawns when "the soil is sour and badly drained, 
and this seems to be the ease with your lawn. 
You should have it drained in the early 
autumn, if you can, and then when this has 
been done, apply heavy dressings of soot or 
lime—both quite fresh. Do this in showery 
weather, so that they will soon be washed in. 
The lime and soot should kill the Moss, which 
should be raked off with an iron rake. Spread 
some fine soil over all, and then sow some fine 
Grass seed, protecting from birds, if need 
be. You might also try the following remedy, 
which has been found very efficacious in the 
destruction of Moss:—Get some sulphate of 
iron and mix it in the proportion of 1 lb. of 
sulphate to two gallons of water. The solu¬ 
tion should be made in a wooden cask, put¬ 
ting the plain water into the cask first, and 
then adding the solution. Then get a rosed 
watering-pot and apply the mixture to the 
lawn over a space of 15 square yards. It 
should be applied as soon as made, as it loses 
strength by keeping. It should also be made 
with soft or rain water, avoiding, if you can, 
w r ater in which there is lime. This may be 
done at any time of the year, but best during 
this month. The sulphate is known to be 
acting when the Moss turns black, after which 
it withers away and crumbles into powder. 
If it has been too weak, the Moss will only 
turn red, and another application is neces¬ 
sary. As Moss generally indicates poorness 
of soil, it will be requisite after the Moss is 
destroyed to apply a top-dressing of loamy 
soil, manure, and wood-ashes.] 

Iiotus peliorrhynchus—Kindly name the en¬ 
closed? Is it Zizyphus lotus, from Tcneriffe, or some¬ 
thing else?—T. 

[The name of the specimen you send is 
Lotus peliorrhynchus. a native of Teueriffe, 
from whence it was introduced in 1884. Zizy¬ 
phus Lotus is a prickly shrub, whose drupe- 
like fruits are edible.] 

Primula japonica-In the spring of 1006 I had 
some Primula japonica plants given me. I planted 
them out in a shady place in tlie open. In or about 
July I potted them up in 5-inch pots, and kept them 
well watered. They grew away, and had leaves 
8 inches to 9 inches long. As soon as the cold weather 
came on I took them indoors, and put them in a 
south-east window. They then commenced showing 
flower, but the leaves turned yellow and died olT. I 
had about two flowers on each, and then they died 
off. I have now put them out in cold frame, where 
they are growing away nicely, but not showing any 
flower. Would you kindly tell me their proper treat¬ 
ment I have nothing but a south-east and north-east 
window and cold frame.—W. C. 

[The above-named species is one of the 
hardiest and most vigorous of its race, and 
few garden plants are of more easy or simple 
cultivation. The fact that you lifted and 
potted into 5-inch pots in July plants that 
you had planted out in the spring of the same 
year, would be quite sufficient to account for 
all the irregularities that followed. The 
species in question is perfectly hardy, de¬ 
lights in shade, rich soil, and abundance of 
moisture, and will throw up a spike of blos¬ 
soms—the latter arranged on whorls or rings 
at intervals on the stems—when well grown, 
to nearly, or quite, 2 feet high. As you ap¬ 
pear to possess a shady spot in your garden, 
dig it up deeply, add plenty of old stable- 
manure, so that the roots are not in immedi¬ 
ate contact with it, and plant your specimen 
moderately firm, taking care that the big, 
fleshy roots are not doubled up in a very small 
hole in the planting, but spread them out 
evenly over the soil before covering them up. 
The plant delights in any amount of mois¬ 
ture at the root, and, when in full growth, 
you will not be likely to overdo it in this 
respect. Being a deciduous species, losing its 
leaves each year, the plant should be grown 


and flowered in the same position. Planted 
at the side of a wet or damp ditch, we have 
known the plant to form rosettes of leaves 
more than 2 feet across. At its best it is one 
of the finest hardy plants we could name.] 

Violets with yellow foliage — I am sending you 
two Violet-roots, and hope you will be kind enough to 
tell me why the leaves are so yellow? The Violets 
have been grown in old hot-hed manure, consisting or 
cow-manure, straw, sweepings, and Beeeh leaf-mould. 

I havo bad some fair Violets from my frame, but 
wish for healthier-looking plants. These plants suf¬ 
fered badly from red-spider in summer of 1905, and 
were not quite well when transplanted in 1906 into 
frame. What had I better do?—H elen McMijjius. 

[The unsuitable nature of the eoil in which 
your Violets were planted is the cause of the 
pale colour of the foliage. We are surprised 
that you omitted the one great essential— 
fresh soil. Cow-manure, sweepings, etc., are 
not suitable for Violet production. Read the 
notes on page 99, which will afford you infor¬ 
mation that will help you in your future prac¬ 
tices. There is no sign of red-spider on the 
plants you sent, and given suitable soil, there 
would have been ample vigour to have pro¬ 
vided you with satisfactory flowers. Double 
Violets need the best culture to satisfy their 
few requirements.] 

A note from Southsea.— Here, in Southsea, 
if the Genista, after its blooming period under 
gloss is over, be planted in the open ground, 
it will make good headway during the summer, 
and stand a fair chance of living through the 
following winter. In my neighbourhood there 
were several of these in bloom in the open-air 
making a brilliant display. Two of tho 
largest were over 9 feet in height. 1 am, how¬ 
ever, sorry to see that, the late cold spell has 
destroyed them all. Now, as this cold spell 
did not destroy tho East Lothian Stocks and 
Wallflowers growing in the same neighbour¬ 
hood, it is evident that these Genistas would 
not have occupied their present position at 
the time of the severe winter of 1895, which 
killed all the Wallflowers. The East Lothian 
Stock is rarely seen here in bloom in tho 
spring, as it is so liable to be ruined by a 
species of green-fly that can withstand tho 
frosts of our average winter. The hard winter 
of 1895 destroyed these pests, and for two 
years afterwards we enjoyed an immunity 
from them, with the result that I had two 
years in succession a nice display of bloom. 
Year after year afterwards I sowed the 6eed, 
but each year the plants were ruined. Last 
year I made a supreme effort to save them. I 
kept the fly under by repeated applications of 
soft-soap water, and I was rewarded with a 
fine show of bloom, which from its variety in 
this locality was much appreciated. A friend 
at Ventuor tells me in a letter that the fine 
Ivy-leaved Geraniums there have been killed 
by the late frost.—L. C. K. 

Saxifraga apiculata is blooming well with me 
this year. It is a free-growing, but rather puzzling 
species, the amount of flowers produced not always 
being in converse ratio to the health and size of the 
plants. Biennial division seems to give the best re¬ 
sults. Several specimens, each 6 inches across, have 
very little bloom on them, w hereas plants divided last 
year are flowering with the greatest freedom. — 
J. CORNHILL. 

Phloxes —It is not always realised how advanta¬ 
geous it is to thin out the shoots of herbaceous 
Phloxes in the spring. I refer more particularly to 
old roots that have not been divided. The present is 
an opportune time to get on with the work, pinching 
out the weakliest growths, and so giving more room 
to the development of shoots that are robust. When, 
through neglect or oversight, Phloxes are not divided 
when they should be, it frequently happens that they 
become overcrowded, and the centre shoots “ do very 
little good.” A judicious thinning in spring will 
obviate this to a great extent.—T ownsman. 

Begonias for the flower-garden —Recently in 
GARDENING a correspondent inquired as to Begonias 
for the flower-garden, and to what has already been 
said as to planting them out in May, I would like to 
add that they make a most gorgeous show if given a 
position on a sunny border, and planted in a little 
good material—loam and old manure, for instance. 
Last summer was most trying for many plants; but 
beds of Begonias bad a most brilliant effect, and 
especially when some trouble had been taken to give 
them good soil. Though they cannot be classed 
amongst plants as producing flowers ** useful for 
cutting,” they, nevertheless, contribute very largely 
to the beauty of a garden for many weeks during the 
summer.—W oodbastwick. 


Index to Volume XXVIII.— The binding covers 
(price la. 6d. each, post free, Is. Dd.) and Index (3d. t 
post free, 3Jd.) for Volume XXVIII. are now ready, 
and may be had of all newsagents, or of the Pub- 
Ijpljer, post free, 2s. for the two. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



April 20, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


101 


INDOOR PLANTS. 

CLIMBING SOLANUMS. 

The Solanum family embraces plants of much 
and varied beauty from all parts of the world. 
Though several among them bear coloured 
fruits, the merit of the climbing Solanums lies 
in their flowers. Most of them are natives of 
South America and the West Indies, so that 
even in mild districts, few can be used in the 
open in this country; but among greenhouse 
climbers there are none better worth growing. 
Their growth is rapid, and young plants grow 
fast and flower within a few months. They 
need little attention beyond keeping clean, 
and a good pruning in early spring. In a 
family so vast there are many species which 
are mere weeds, and often dangerous, as in 


to flowering. So rapid is its growth that in 
one season quite a small plant will cover 
many yards of surface. It is as common in 
Chili os our English Bittersweet, growing in 
the poorest soil, poor soil being the best for 
it as tending to flowers rather than leaf. The 
flowers, carried in late summer, are in mas¬ 
sive clusters of purple-blue or mauve-white, 
sometimes succeeded by small white berries ; 
in the south of France these bunches of fruit 
are handsome. 

S. jabminoides (the Jasmine Nightshade). 
—This is one of the most beautiful of climb¬ 
ing plants, with neat foliage and starry white 
flowers, and is quite hardy ns a wall shrub in 
many parts of the south of England and Ire¬ 
land. It may be kept low, when it flowers 
freely from side-shoots; or, if loft to itself, it 
rambles a long distunce, bearing its clusters 



WendUnd’s climbing Solanum (Solanum Wondlandi). 


the caee of our native Bittersweet, but the fol¬ 
lowing kinds arc beautiful and of great value 
in gardens:— 

Solanum corntoerum.— Though the erect 
»tar-sha|>ed violet flowers of this species are 
not without beauty, its distinctive merit lies 
in the hanging fruits of fine appearance 
which succeed them. They are ns large as a 
hen's egg. orange-yellow, and curiously 
marked with five horns or corners near the 
stalk. It is a native of Brazil, and requires 
stove treatment. 

S. crisfum (the Potato-tree).—A hardy 
ornamental Solanum, widely grown ns a wall 
shrub in the milder parts of England and Ire¬ 
land, but only safe in the warmest districts 
without this protection. Old plants reach 
many feet in height, and even when cut by 
frost quickly start agaru> indeed, it if well to 
prune ^ack to the etfcngpdTyioi t|^l aid 


in great, profusion. These arc useful for cut¬ 
ting. If grown in the open it should be given 
a light soil and a cool corner, where protec¬ 
tion can be given during severe weather; it 
will do well in a north aspect if not too ex¬ 
posed in winter. In the greenhouse it is an 
excellent pillar plant, but loses its leaves in 
winter. Cuttings rooted in spring make many 
feet of growth in a season, flowering freely. 
There is a variety, floribunduin, which is even 
more free aud its flowers a trifle larger, 
though smaller in leaf. 

S. pensile. —This fine climber, of vigorous 
growth, is not often seen in gardens. The 
single violet-blue flowers do not appeur at 
their full size, because the outer petals are 
somewhat reflexed, throwing into relief the 
star-shaped white eye and yellow stamens in 
a way that is attractive and unlike other 
kinds. Demerara and Brazil. 


8. PLATEN8E.— This is a true creeper, 
which, instead of rambling over the surround¬ 
ing vegetation creeps over the ground, rooting 
freely as it goes, but seldom rising more than 
a foot high. It is found on the banks of the 
Rio Plata, covering the poorest ground with 
its carpet of grey downy leaves. The flowers, 
coming on short erect stems, are white aud 
bell-shaped, followed by berries of the same 
colour, which are sweet and can be eaten. 

S. Sbaforthianum.— This is a plant of 
smaller growth thnn most of its fellows, bear¬ 
ing abundantly light green foliage, prettily 
cut, and very free blooming. The flowers are 
reddish-lilac or mauve, with a conspicuous 
yellow centre. Though an old plant (first 
grown in 1804) it has never become common 
under glass, but has been used with success of 
late upon the Continent as an outdoor 
summer flower. Cuttings root readily, and 
their growth is 60 rapid as to flower freely the 
same season. During the whole of the 
summer, mature plants hear flowers, which are 
followed by pretty clusters of orange-coloured 
berries of the size of Peas. Grown in com¬ 
pany with the Jasmine flowered Solanum, tho 
contrast is beautiful, but, as a native of tho 
West Indies, it is tender, and can only bo 
used in the open for a few months and in 
warm nooks. It is best grown under glass, 
where it reaches 6 feet to 10 feet in the season, 
flowering during a great part of the year. It 
is easily grown from seed. 

S. trilobatum. —A climbing shrub, from 
2 feet to 5 feet in height, found in Ceylon and 
the East Indies as a twining creeper, armed 
in every part with stout spines. The flowers 
varying from violet and blue to white, and « 
carried in loose bunches, are followed by 
handsome fruits the size of a small Cherry. 
It requires the stove. 

S. Wendlandi. —Visitors to Kcw are 
familiar with the flue form of this plant, grow¬ 
ing in oiio corner of the succulent house, 
every shoot bearing a dense terminal elustrr 
of purplish-white blossoms, each bunch 
measuring nearly a foot across. On the Con¬ 
tinent it has become popular of late years, 
and is now propagated in large quantities. 
There it is nothing unusual to see in the 
markets pot plants only 2 feet to 3 feet in 
height, bearing several bloom-clusters. Nor 
is it nearly so exacting ns to temperature as 
its habitat, Costa Rica, would at first imply ; 
on the contrary, it is freer and its beauty 
more lasting in a lower than stove heat, and it 
may be wintered with ease in any house 
secure from frost. Like most vigorous 
climbers, however, to see it in full beauty it 
must have plenty of room and rich light soil, 
aided by copious waterings when in active 
growth. Under such conditions it thrives, 
continuing in bloom the greater part of the 
summer and autumn. The bold and variable 
foliage is handsome; the steins slightly 
prickly. The blossoms vary in colour, accord¬ 
ing to the vigour of the plant and the time of 
year, from a deep to lighter purple, or shading 
to white, with a bunch of golden stamens in 
the centre ; those grown in partial shade or 
planted out being the deepest in colour. 
When at rest it loses many of its leaves, and 
is then easily trained and cut back as re¬ 
quired; in fact, to secure good new growth, 
this is advisable. In many districts it may 
he used in the open during tho summer, 
where, trained on walls or trellis-work, it* 
massive clusters ure fine. It is easily grown 
from young shoots taken with a heel in spring, 
or mny be rooted from pieces of the fleshy 
stems removed in pruning, care being taken 
to keep a sound eye at either end of the sec¬ 
tions, which are placed in heat as ordinary 
cuttings. _ 


Amaryllis flowers, green (0. B.).—By continual 
selection the greeu tinge which is so pronounced In 
the white portion of the flowers of the original species 
has been eliminated, or nearly so, this being one of 
the objects mined at by hybridizers for years. As 
yours have so much green in them, it would appear 
that the seed was saved from flowers not so highly 
bred an some of the strains are nowadays. At the 
same time, too much manure would have a tendency 
to colour the flower in this way. No manure in any 
shape should be given from the time of starting till 
they flower. After blooming, when they are making 
their growth, If the pots are well furnished with 
root)<. an occaslortnl doselo^ liqufd|tf*nure Will be 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 














102 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


April 20, 1907 


ORCHIDS. 


ORCHIDS AT WEYBRIDGE. 

Ip Dendrobiums could generally be flowered 
as well as they are at Fir Grange, Weybridge, 
the residence of Mr. W. A. Bilney, they 
would undoubtedly be more popular. Bloom¬ 
ing, as they do, in the early days of March, 
they fill up a gap and give a wealth of colour 
all through that month. Nothing at this time 
of year can be finer than Dendrobium nobile 
nobilius as grown at Fir Grange. Plants 
with the rich hue of perfect health, and car¬ 
rying upwards of a hundred blossoms, perfect 
in form and colour, arc wonderfully effective. 
The lovely Ainsworthi is in fine form, the 
rich crimson lip contrasting admirably with 
the large white petals. This is undoubtedly 
one of the loveliest Orchids in cultivation, 
and worthy of any pains that may be taken 
in its culture. Of this hybrid there are seve¬ 
ral varieties, the best of which are Hazelbone 
and Gwendolin. D. Findlayanum is note¬ 
worthy for its broad lip. Cypripedium in- 
signe Sander® is in good form', as is also the 
pretty little Colax jugosus. Among Odonto- 
glossums, a fine pink variety of Rossi majus 
is conspicuous, as is also a very fine variety 
of Pescatorei with claret lip, the flower being 
three times the size of that of the typical 
form. O. Adrian®, gold and chocolate, with 
feathered lip, iB a remarkably fine kind, as is 
also Uro-Skinneri, with pink lip and choco¬ 
late petals, and triumphans is one of the 
most richly coloured of this fine family. 

J. Cornh'ill. 


GROWING ZYGOPETALUMS. 

Kindly give me some details of culture for Zygo- 
pctalums, with description of flowers, and colours of 
varieties? I greatly appreciate your notes on Orchids 
as they appear.—W. II. Smith. 

[Zygopetalums are among the easiest 
Orchids to grow under our artificial treat¬ 
ment. Pots to correspond with the size of the 
plants should be half-filled with crocks, over 
these placing a thin layer of rough Sphagnum 
Moss to keep the drainage free. The com¬ 
post should consist of two parts fibrous loam, 
one part fibrous peat, and one part leaf soil, 
adding some chopped Sphagnum Moss, 
broken crocks, and a little coarse sand. It is 
advisable to well mix the materials together. 
A good porous soil is necessary, it being 
essential to the welfare of the plants that the 
water should pass quickly through the com¬ 
post, the succulent roots being liable to decay 
if kept long in a saturated condition. These 
Zygopetalums grow well in a cool, shady part 
of the intermediate house, and where the 
average temperature is about 60 degs. Small 
yellow thrips are very partial to the young 
rowths of these plants, and to ensure good 
owering the plants must be kept clean. The 
following are well known kinds: — 

Z. Bukkei, from British Guiana, produces 
flowers which are about inches across, 
sepals and petals green, with longitudinal 
hues of brown-chocolate, the apices often suf¬ 
fused with the same colour, lip white, with 
a fleshy crest, ribbed with violet-purple. 

Z. CKIN1TUM, also from Brazil, has rather 
smaller flowers than the typical species (Z. 
Mackayi). The sepals and petals are green, 
barred with brown, lip white, streaked with 
densely barred violet-blue, sometimes red- 
crimson veins. 

Z. Mackayi, the typical species, was intro¬ 
duced from Brazil in 1826. The variety has 
always been in high repute among growers on 
account of the pleasant perfume of its flowers, 
which are each about 3 inches across, sepals 
and petals light yellow-green, blotched with 
purplish-brown. The lip is broad, fan¬ 
shaped, white, streaked and Bpotted with 
violet-purple, both streaks and spots being 
often arranged in radiating lines. 

Z. maxillare. an old species, was origi¬ 
nally introduced in 1829 from Rio de Janeiro, 
and has always been much appreciated by 
amateurs on account of the rich violet-blue of 
the labellum. The sepals and petals are 
green, blotched and barred with chocolate- 
brown. This species is distinct in growth 
from its congeners in having a creeping 
rhizome, and in its native habitat is always 
of Tr^e-Ferns, 

i™- 


found growing on tluu^tema 
upon pieces of whicU^it i^y 


ported. A strong piece of copper-wire should 
be firmly attached to the Fern block that it 
may be suspended from the roof of the house, 
affording the plant plenty of water at all 
seasons. 

Z. rostratum is a very beautiful species 
from British Guiana. Its flowers are each 
about 4 inches across, the sepals and petals 
greenish, shaded in the centre with rose- 
brown, white at the base, greenish at the 
apex. The large lip is white, with some pur¬ 
plish streaks at the base. This plant may be 
growm in pots, as recommended for* Z. 
Mackayi, but it requires more heat, and 
should have a shady position in the East 
Indian house, or the ordinary plant stove. Jt 
requires plenty of water at the root at all 
times, and insect pests must be guarded 
against, or it will quickly deteriorate.] 


Cymbidium Sanderi.-We regret that in our 
issue of April 13th, p. 89, the legend to the Orchid 
cut was by mistake given as C. Sanderi. We 11ml that 
the flowers figured represent those of C. Wiganianum, 
which we hope to give the history of in an early 
issue. 


ROOM AND WINDOW. 

PLANTS IN THE HOUSE. 
Suitable plants for present purposes ore 
numerous, and afford excellent choice. 
Bulbs in variety should now bo made the 
most of in preference to using so many 
plants of permanent character. The choicer 
kinds of Hyacinths may now be had in flower 
with but little forcing. If used too largely, 
the fragrance would be overpowering, but a 
few plants of distinct colours or shades of 
one colour would scarcely ever be found too 
much in rooms of average size. When, how¬ 
ever, this is the case, advantage should be 
taken of other positions in the house. For 
instance, the entrance-hall might be suitable, 
or, where corridors exist, these, again, would 
be convenient spots. The Polyanthus Nar¬ 
cissi belong to the same category, and are 
almost indispensable at this season for deco¬ 
ration. These could be turned to the same 
account as the Hyacinths, separately or in 
conjunction therewith. The same reason-* 
do not operate against Tulips, hence they 
can be placed in any room. Tulips are fre¬ 
quently allowed to get too far advanced into 
flower before they are taken in; this is a 
mistake, for it is most interesting to watch 
the development of the blooms both as re¬ 
gards size and colour. The same applies to 
Hyacinths and other bulbs in a greater or 
less degree, and, in fact, to nearly all flower¬ 
ing plants that are so used. 

Daffodils in variety are beautiful pot 
plants, the common double Lent Lily not by 
any means the least important, by reason of 
its good lasting properties. Bicolor Hors- 
fieldi is one of the choicest, its lovely flowers, 
with golden trumpets and white perianths, 
are so very distinct, whilst the broad, strap¬ 
like foliage and dwarf growth add to its 
beauty. IS. poeticus ornatus, if forced too 
early, comes rather spindly in the foliage, 
but a little later on it will be a most pleasing 
change. A lovely combination just now is 
Iris reticulata and Narcissus Bulbocodimn 
(the Hoop-petticoat Narciss). The extended 
culture of Daffodils during the past few 
years has added greatly to the number of 
furnishing plants in pots for at least three 
months in the year. From the middle of 
January to the middle of April, one or other 
of the varieties may be easily had in flower. 
Both the Crocus and the Snowdrop are avail¬ 
able as pot plants. Clumps of Lilies of the 
Valley will now be much more satisfactory 
than single crowns; these always look the 
better of the two by reason of the greater 
quantity of foliage. Solomon’s Seal is 
readily forced; when well managed in 6-inch 
or 7-incli pots it is a beautiful feature, being 
so distinct from anything else. Cyclamens 
as vase or rustic basket plants ore now' quite 
in season, lasting much better than in mid¬ 
winter. Lachenalias are indispensable for 
the early spring, being so unlike anything 
else. They last also a long time in condi¬ 
tion. this being an important point. Scilla 
sibirica would be an excellent companion to 
the Lachenalias or to the Crocus. If the 
bulbs be packed closely together in 6-inch 
pots, a fine mass of flower will be obtained. 


Triteleia uuiflora is also very pretty when 
grown in pots. 

Whatever kinds of bulbs are used, note 
should be taken of green Moss as a sur¬ 
facing whenever and wherever it is obtain¬ 
able ; those who are situated in the country 
scarcely appreciate the value of fresh green 
Moss as they should do. As a surfacing to 
bulbs it is of the greatest service, saving the 
trouble of watering to a large extent. 


FINE-FOLIAGED PLANTS FOR THE 

SUMMER. 

Fine-foliaged plants play such an im¬ 
portant part in the home that it is advisable 
at the outset of a season to take stock, mak¬ 
ing what additions are needful and dispensing 
with any that are worn out and unsuitable. 
The disposition nowadays to grow many 
moderate-sized plants in preference to large, 
ungainly specimens, has much to commend 
it, inasmuch as the medium-sized - plants may 
bo used for table decoration with good effect, 
and do not take up much room. Small Ferns, 
Asparaguses, Aralias, Aspidistras, Ficuses. 
and Grevillcas may all be used to good 
account. Of course, anyone having a green¬ 
house has a greater advantage with fine-foli¬ 
aged plants, as to exchange them occasion¬ 
ally, and give them a few weeks of green¬ 
house treatment, is very beneficial to them, 
and one can pot them on and look after them 
better than when such changes have to be 
made, say, in a house-window. Quite small 
plants can be procured in pots now at a 
trifling cost, and if it is desired, these can bo 
shifted on, and make good specimens by 
autumn. Woodbastwick. 


FERNS. 

PLUMOSE FORMS OF NEPHROLEPIS. 
The figure in Gardening (page 77) of Nepli- 
rolepis cxaltata elegantissinia shows well the 
distinguishing features of this class, which 
now includes several forms. In the typical 
Nephrolepis exaltata, known in America as 
the Boston Fern, the fronds are but once 
divided, and hold themselves in a decidedly 
stiff, somewhat erect manner, while there is a 
profusion of long, wiry runners about the base 
of the plant. This Fern has been long grown 
in gardens, but no very marked divergence 
from the normal form made its appearance 
till a few years ago, when the variety Piersoni 
originated* in the United States, where it 
quickly became popular, and soon made its 
way to this country. Since then others of 
this section have been put into commerce, a 
truly remarkable one, and, perhaps, the finest 
of all, being todeaoidcs, which was given a 
first-class certificate by the Royal Horticul¬ 
tural Society last autumn. This has the same 
prominent features as in the variety elegan- 
tissima—that is to say, instead of the narrow, 
rather stiff, and once-divided fronds, they 
are wide at the base, and gradually taper to 
the point. The plumose character is so pro¬ 
nounced, and the divisions of the frond so 
overlap one another, as to bear a considerable 
resemblance to Tudea superba, hence tho 
varietal name of todeuoides. Yet another in 
the same way—Whitmani was given an 
award of merit in February last. It is a good 
deal in the way of todeaoides, but has also, I 
think, a leaning towards elegantissima. An¬ 
other form of Nephrolepis, whose leaflets are 
divided again nearly to the midrib, is N. 
Bausei, a seedling variation from N. pluma. 
Both these are remarkable from the fact that 
they are absolutely deciduous, or even more 
than that, as the crown of the plant perishes, 
and the only portion which remains alive is 
some oblong-shaped tubers about the size of 
a small Acorn. These must be kept moist 
during the winter, and in spring, if shaken 
clear of the old soil, and repotted, they 
quickly push up a crown of fronds. Nephro¬ 
lepis rufescens tripinnatifida is another ex¬ 
tremely pretty example of a plumose form. 
It is a rather upright-growing plant, with 
fronds from 2 feet to 3 feet loug, and 
4 inches to 6 inches wide, the colour being a 
pleasing shade of bright green. A few years 
since this was a very popular plant, but the 
advent of these transatlantic forms of_N. ex¬ 
altata has led to its being less grown. X. 



April 20, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUNIRATED. 


103 


ROSES. of the Hybrid Perpetuate that I should never 

_ think of calling them Hybrid Teas. How- 

t x> pr atjtt ever, this is of little moment save to exhi- 

ROoE J. B. CLARK. bitors. What we are concerned about is 

Whatever will be the future judgment of whether the variety is worthy of extended 
Rose growers upon this Rose, it cannot be culture. In reply I should say give the Rose 
denied that the blossoms exhibited in 1905 a good trial, but do not plant or bud it largely 
at Regent’s Park, when the gold medal was until you have proved its worth more exten- 
awarded to the variety, were of huge 6ize, I sively. 

some of them measuring as much as 7 inches I can recall many Roses that have ap | 
across, and in its half-open form, as depicted j peared like a meteor, and have disappeared 
in the illustration, it is of exquisite shape, almost as quickly, but I think it is due to 
The colour is just what we have wanted for I every Rose, especially when seen so good as 
some time in the Hybrid Tea group, although this variety has been, to give it a fair trial 
I must confess I think it is wrong to place j under all conditions before praising or con- 
the Rose among the Hybrid Teas. To see it | demning it. 

growing, with its fine, lusty, spiny growths. In fulness of bloom J. B. Clark is about on 
gives one tlio impression at unco that it be- a par with Ben Cant. This is a deep scarlet- 
longs to the Hybrid Perpetual class. It was crimson, with dark flushes in centre, a truly [ 
rather remarkable that so few good flowers of gorgeous bloom, with splendid pointed 
J. B. Clark were exhibited in 1906. This centre. It is a very vigorous grower, some- 1 



ltose J. B. Clark 


bited. This Rose has an extra vigorous 
habit of growth, which compete one either to 
grow the variety as a standard or to have it 
upon low poles. It is one of those sorts that 
if left to itself and sparsely pruned its bend¬ 
ing growths will be laden with lovely buds, 
and if this practice be continued each season, 
and the old growths cut away annually, one 
never need be without a grand button-hole. 

Rosa. 

fruit. 

TOO MANY VARIETIES OE TEARS. 
The time has conic for those interested in 
the horticultural press to again take up the 
question of which Pears are worth growing 
and which sorts are not. There is now, I 
suppose, 1,200 recorded varieties, and I fancy 
that 1,170 of these could well be spared. 
As the remaining thirty would do all that 
is required in the supplying of fruit of 
comparatively recent varieties, some are 
distinctly good, and will find a place in the 
thirty, and many old sorts are useless. 
They are only kept alive by their names 
being well known, and the fact that they 
appear on the show-tables. And these 
show-tables are not always blessings—to 
wit, the Pear Marie Benoist is 1 frequently 
shown, and 1 admit it is handsome ; but, 
personally, I have never once tasted it fit 
to eat raw. And still writers in the press 
recommend it. I would like to know who 
can submit an outside-grown fruit of 
Marie Benoist fit to eat? 1 feel that plant¬ 
ing a fruit-tree is a serious matter, and 
when the wrong sort gets planted it is a 
loss foT a long time. Something really 
ought to be done to guard the innocent 
planters. H. C. Smith, Guernsey. 

RENOVATING OLD FRUIT TREES. 
Where Apple or Pear-trees are large and 
old, and susceptible to canker, yet have 
fairly clean main stems, it is surprising 
how such trees may be renovated if later 
on beheaded, and grafted with varieties 
such as are found to do well in the locality, 
and do not canker, whilst canker is a 
disease that originates largely because soil 
is poor or roots have gone wide and deep 
into poor soil; yet certain varieties of 
Apples will canker readily, whilst others 
will not suffer. Old trees to be so treated 
should now be cut back to one half the 
length purposed finally, the final cutting 
being done about the middle of April. 
Before inserting the grafts round or on the 
margins of the severed branches, it is wise 
to pare off smoothly with a sharp knife the 
rough surface left by the saw. as that facili¬ 
tates callusing. At once, if not already 
done, nice clean, stout shoots 12 inches to 
15 inches in length should be cut from tho 
trees intended to supply the* grafts; have 
a name label attached, and then be laid iji 
[ by their bottoms fully 6 inches in depth 
into ground under a north wall, fence, or 
hedge. The object of that is to help keep 
the grafts restful rather longer than are 
the trees to be worked, as then some sap 


seems to prove the variety is not good as a 
maiden ; indeed, the raisers say that it sue- j 
ceeda beat trained as a Pillar Rose, and I can I 
quite believe it. There is a number of grand 
Roses that have their special season, and I 
should eay this Rose is such an one ; but, | 
personally, I prefer a Rose that is always re¬ 
liable. When we have one of those lovely j 
dripping Junes which Roses revel in we may | 
see J. B. Clark in fine form, but at present 
I must say I have not had tho variety of ex- j 
ceptional merit. Mr. Dickson informed me ] 
that J. B. Clark originated from Lord Bacon, , 
and crossed, I believe, with Gruss an Tep- | 
litz, but of this I am not quite sure. I have 
often thought something could be made out j 
of some of our richly-coloured H.P. Roses 1 
that possess a sort of Tea-like tendency in 
their freedom of flowering. I have some j 
seedlings from Caroline Testout crossed with 
red Roses, such as Eugpne Furst, .Victor 
Hugo, et|C., but their ^growlhvh ttrtfflarthat I 


thing similar to J. B. Clark, and the pair 
would make a fine group if the growths 
were retained a good length, and supported 
by sticks or canes. Let such a bed be 
planted with the bushes about 4 feet apart. 
This would afford an opportunity of having 
an undergrowth of the dwarf-growing Victor 
Hugo, another superb variety of lovely rich 
colouring. I like the look of one of last 
year’s novelties. Lady Roesmore, and if 1 
mistake not it will be a valuable addition to 
the claret-crimson Roses. It appears to be 
as free and continuous in flowering as it is 
beautiful in colouring. There is another 
Rose I am exceedingly fond of, and that is 
Monsieur Desir. It is one of the most frag¬ 
rant sorts we have, and the colour is a rich 
velvety crimson, with violet shading. The 
buds are extremely pretty, useful for coat- 
flowers, and although we may never see the 
variety in a show box, I think it is far more 
beautiful than a number often seen exhi¬ 


is set up before the graft buds begin to 
move. The shoots thus laid in can be well 
washed before cut into grafts, whiLst for small 
grafting work wax is now largely used for large 
trees, the branches of which admit of three i r 
more grafts to be inserted into each one. A 
mixture of clay and fresh horse-droppings, well 
beaten up, and mixed in almost equal propor¬ 
tions before water is added, makes, on the 
whole, the best protection. Of course, the 
cut surface of the stems, as well as the lower 
portions of the grafts, is coated with the 
clay when the work is well done, and air is 
excluded, until not only is the graft junction 
complete, but the exposed surface of the cut 
stem when the clay is removed is found to 
have partially callused over. Almost miracu¬ 
lous are the results obtained from treating in 
this way old trees that otherwise have been 
worthless. _ A. D. 

Melons in frames.— Strong plants set out 
in a frame now with a comfortable bottom 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 











104 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Atril 20, 1907 


heat Bhould produce ripe fruits in July. Do 
not shade, but ventilate carefully to ensure 
hardy, strong foliage. Give a little air at 
the back of the early house in the morning, 
and sprinkle and close early in the afternoon 
on bright days. The sun will do a good deal 
to the forcing.—E. H. 

A NEW FRUITING BRAMBLE (RUBUS 
PLATYPHYLLUS). 

A new fruiting Bramble is announced by M. 
Allard in the Revue Horticole. It is Rubus 
platyphyllus, native of the Caucasus. It is 
said to be of exceptional vigour; the 
branches, which may extend over 9 feet, are 
bright red, and are covered with stiff, 
glandular hairs of the same colour, and re¬ 
sembling prickles. When trailing on the 
ground, owing to want of support, the ends 
of the branches take root, and form new 
plants. The leaf is large, and nearly ever¬ 
green, and in autumn greenish-white be¬ 
neath. The flowers, appearing about the end 
of May, are white, and are borne in a ter¬ 
minal panicle with leaves. They are suc¬ 
ceeded by an abundant crop of fine violet- 
purple berries, rather long in shapo, and 
covered with down. The fruit, which ripens 
from the beginning of June to August, is not 
only handsome in itself, but very pleasant to 
the taste, making excellent preserve, _ and 
said to be superior to that of Raspberries. 
This Rubus does not produce suckers. 

M. Allard describes his method of culti¬ 
vating it as follows: “I give it the form of a 
goblet by forming a circle round the stem 
about 6 feet in diameter with eleven stakes, 
well fixed into the soil, but so that their 
height above the soil is about 9 feet. The 
stakes stand at equal distances apart, and 
are hooped together in three places, 
3 feet 3 inches apart. I then select eleven 
of the best branches, and fasten them sepa¬ 
rately, and at full length, to the stakes. The 
branches thus enjoy the full benefit of the 
air and light, which allows of the full de¬ 
velopment and ripening of the fruit in the 
best conditions.” 


NOTES AND REPLIES . 


Strawberry plants falling —Kindly tell me 
what is the matter with my forced 8trawberry plants? 
They are Royal Sovereign. The berries, you will 
notice, turn brown at the end, and the plants do not 
seem to flourish. They have been watered every day 
with water out of a rain water tank.—J. Laurance. 

[You do not furnish us with the slightest 
amount of information as to how your Straw¬ 
berry plants have been treated, which makes 
it difficult for us to assigu a cause for the 
fruits failing to swell. Had you stated 
whether the plants were subjected to little or 
much heat in the early stages of forcing and 
when in bloom, and if the flowers were arti¬ 
ficially fertilised with the aid of a rabbit’s- 
tail or camel-hair brush, every day or not, we 
should then have been in a position to speak 
more definitely. As it is, w r e can only conjec¬ 
ture, seeing that the plant sent is in a healthy 
condition, that artificial fertilisation was 
either neglected or imperfectly performed, as 
a result of not following it up day after day, 
or else that the flowers were not in a dry con¬ 
dition when fertilised, which would also pre¬ 
vent their setting properly.] 

Raising new fruits.— What ia the usual way in 
which new varieties of Apples, Pears, and Plums are 
produced? Name the largest Apple in cultivation?— 
A Salopian Reader. 


[With respect to the production of new or 
seedling fruits, the usual practice is for raisers 
to early in the expanding remove the pollen 
anthers from two or three flowers on an 
Apple, Pear, or Plum-tree, and to tie over 
those flowers a piece of fine muslin. Some 
four or six days later pollen from flowers of 
another variety of the fruit is carried to these 
flowers, and the stigmas then ready for such 
fertilisation are touched or coated with the 
pollen, thus effecting crosses that will in the 
course of time produce seeds, and these, when 
sown, seedling trees that should in time fruit. 
No guarantee, however, can be given that 
these seedling varieties will be specially good. 
They may be, or they may be worthless, such 
is the uncertainty which attends an inter¬ 
crossing or artificial fertilisation. Without 
doubt many seedlings of these frpits 
raised, the flowers p 


igs of these fruits 
itfodudaj which kves 


are 
;e*e not 


thus cross fertilised, but may have been 60 
by insects or the wind, or not have been so 
fertilised at all. With respect to which is 
the largest Apple in cultivation, no special 
one can be named, because the size of Apples 
varies according to culture, soil, nature of 
trees, thinness of crops, and other causes. 
Peasgood’s Nonsuch produces wonderfully fine 
as well as most handsome fruits. So also 
does Gloria Mundi, the fruits being more 
conical, whilst Warner’s King gives occa¬ 
sionally huge, flatfish fruits. Other very fine 
Apples are Lord Derby, Royal Late Cooking, 
Bramley’s Seedling, Byford Wonder, Pott’s 
Seedling, Alfriston, Hamblings, and Eckliu- 
ville.] 

Fruit prospects.— Naturally, the prospect 
of getting a really fine fruit crop this year 
creates high anticipations. These hopes are 
founded, first, on the fact that fruit-buds are 
abundant in every direction, and plump. 
Then they are more dormant than has been 
the case at this time of year for several sea¬ 
sons. We may well expect that Pears, 
Plums, and Cherries will not be really in 
bloom until April is well advanced; and, 
seeing that the winter has been by no means 
a mild one, there is good reason to anticipate 
that the too common late spring frosts will 
this season not visit us. That the compara¬ 
tive dormancy seen on trees and bushes is 
not at all due to the winter weather is cer¬ 
tain. Observers declare that a good deal of 
this rcstfulness is due to the thorough 
liardeniug the wood had last summer. It is 
just possible that the comparatively dry 
weather experienced since January may also 
help to that end. Certainly we could do 
with a few more inches of rainfall yet ere the 
summer sets in. In any case, a glorious 
bloom is assured.—D. 

Local schedules. —It is a little late to write 
on this matter, but I should like to call the 
attention of all those responsible for framing 
the same, where it has not already been done, 
to a careful discrimination in allotting the 
prizes. I have before me at present one 
mainly devoted to cottagers, with a few small 
prizes allotted to gardeners, and find these 
among others :—For three dishes of fruit, dis¬ 
tinct : 1, five shillings ; 12, four shillings ; 3, 
three shillings. One dish of Tomatoes : 1, six 
shillings ; 12. four shillings ; 3, two shillings. 
A brace of Cucumbers : 1, seven shillings ; 2, 
five shillings ; 3, three shillings. The com¬ 
pilers evidently reckon a brace of Cucumbers 
of considerably more value than three dishes 
of fruit. I merely cite the above to draw at¬ 
tention to the necessity for care in drawing 
up such schedules.—E. B. 

Birds and fruit-growers.— In your valu¬ 
able paper Gardening for the 6th inst. ap¬ 
pears an article entitled, “ Birds and fruit¬ 
growers,” in the course of which you say: — 
” Mr. F. Smith in the paper already referred 
to (read before the Maidstone Farmers' Club), 
said that he had trapped over a thousand 
blackbirds and thrushes per annum for years 
past, and that he would need to kill double 
the number to keep these birds at all within 
bounds in 1906-7, etc.” As I am interested 
in fruit-growing, and have an interest in an 
orchard which suffers annually, or, at least, 
as frequently as the vagaries of this climate 
permit us to enjoy an abundant fruit crop, 
from the attacks of these pests, I should 
take it as a special favour if Mr. Smith would 
give us particulars of the trap he employs. 
The alarming increase of these foes, in spite 
of all methods to keep them within reasonable 
bounds, is such that I consider it is the duty 
of all interested in fruit-growing to use every 
device to suppress their numbers as far as 
possible for the mutual well-being of all con- 
cerned.— Jas. R. Airev, Rochdale. 

Apple Annie Elizabeth. —I read with great 
interest an article on the Apple Annie Eliza 
beth, in your number of March 23rd. In it 
you state that the origin and peculiar name 
of the variety are obscure. I can give you 
reliable information on the subject, for the 
matter came under my own personal obser¬ 
vation. Somewhere about the year 1857 my 
brother had a piece of garden ground on the 
outskirts of Leicester, and near by a Mr. 
Greatorex was living. My brother and he 
shared some Pea-sticks, and at the end of the 


season, when Mr. Greatorex was clearing his 
ground, he found one of the “sticks” had 
taken root, and was growing. He called in 
my brother and me to look, and. as it was a 
fruit-tree, decided to let it stand. The next 
3 ? ear it proved to be an Apple-tree, and boro 
blossom, and about the fourth year some 
fruit came to perfection. He sent for Mr. 
Harrison, the seed merchant, and it was such 
an extraordinarily fine specimen that Mr. 
Harrison secured the grafts. Mr. Greatorex 
had one daughter, named Annie Elizabeth, 
and he chose to name the Apple after her. 
The original tree is still standing in the gar¬ 
den. The house is occupied by friends of 
mine, and last year they sent me a fine 
sample of fruit from the old tree. I know 
specimens have been sent to all the Courts of 
Europe, and, to my mind, it is one of the 
finest Apples grown.— F. C. Musbon, 16, 
Upper Charles-street, Leicester. 

Pot-YInes ripening Crapes.— The Grapes 
should be commencing to colour now’, and 
more ventilation must be given with a little 
air on at night. If the pots are plunged in a 
leaf bed the roots will now have worked 
through, and will be drawing some nourish¬ 
ment from the bed, which will l>e a great help 
to the finishing when the roots are confined 
altogether to tne pots. There is a danger of 
injuring the colour and finish if strong liquids 
are given too freely, but when the roots have 
food within reach outside the pots the Grapes 
always finish well. One of the best lots of 
pot-Vines I have seen was stood on a slate 
stage, and the pots were surrounded by old 
turf, mixed with manure, into which the roots 
worked freely, and stimulants could be given 
to the roots outside the pots.—E. II. 

OUR SCHOOL GARDENS. 

Our boys' school gardens form a block of 
twenty-eight, varying in length from 20 feet 
to 10 feet, and 9 feet in width. They are close 
to the school, and are fenced off from the 
playground by a 4 feet high run of wire 
netting. Whilst doing very well last year 
for the first time, it was thought desirable 
to leave the plots uncropped during the 
winter, that they should bo manured and 
trenched. That work was well carried out 
by the lads in the autumn, a good dressing of 
manure furnished by the local authority 
being put on to the plots, and buried down 
as the trenching proceeded. The work led 
to the excavation of much stone and other 
worthless matter, and thus materially im¬ 
proved the root area for the crops. During 
the late winter a further dressing of manure 
was put on to the plots, and spread about, 
that in washing in the soil might be equally 
fertilised. On March 13th the first lesson 
in digging began, and continued over four 
lessons, being completed on March 22nd. 
The allotted time for the garden lesson is 
forty minutes on Wednesdays and Fridays. 
The spectacle of twenty-eight earnest boys 
digging away with all the strength and 
knowledge they can command is a most 
pleasing one, and naturally leads to the im¬ 
pression that most of them in after life will 
become good amateur or cottage gardeners, 
because now the work seems to possess great 
attractions. No doubt the change from class¬ 
room work to gardening in the open is very 
pleasing, and still further, healthy. 

Already the school head teacher has got in 
his stock of seeds, and sowing will commence 
at once. This work is always specially at¬ 
tractive, as boys seem to realise their re¬ 
sponsibility so much more when committing 
seed to t-he soil. Besides a few flowering 
annuals, there are supplied Parsley, Onion, 
Carrot, Beet, Parsnip, Turnip, Spinach, 
and other seeds, also Peas in two varieties 
for each garden, dwarf and Runner Beans, 
and two rows of diverse varieties of Potatoes. 
By June, when the gardens are fully 
cropped, the group will present a delightful 
appearance. - A. D. 

Kingston, Surrey. 


The Holm Oak (J. Canon).—The Holm or Ever¬ 
green Oak is Quereus Ilex, native of the Mediter¬ 
ranean region, and quite hardy in England. It is 
the most valuable evergreen Oak for Britain. There 
art tnaDy named varieties, but few of them are bo 
beautiful as the wild kind. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



Amul 20, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


105 


QARDEN WORK. 

Conservatory.— Roses are, or should be, 
lovely now, as are also the Sikkim Rhodo¬ 
dendrons and their many hybrids. I have 
seen these do well planted in beds of peat, 
but generally it is more convenient to grow 
them in pots or tubs, so that when the growth 
is getting firm the plants may be placed out¬ 
side to ripen and form flower-buds for next 
season. The house then can be arranged in 
quite a different way. Personally I do not 
care to see a house always filled with the same 
plants arranged in the same way. I have had 
charge of houses filled with Camellias, but 
except when the plants were in flower the 
house was generally shunned by visitors, 
simply because there was nothing fresh to see. 
For this reason we lifted the greater part of 
the Camellias, and placed them in pots or 
tubs to give more ecopo for other things, and 
do away with an irksome monotony. One 
never gets tired of graceful Palms if well 
grown and healthy, and a corner filled with 
Cactuses comes as a pleasant break, and the 
same may be said of a case of Filmy Ferns, 
which must always be in a damp atmosphere 
and in the shade. I have seen places sunk 
below the level of the conservatory for these 
plants, as it makes an interesting change. 
Azaleas are now at their best. We find a 
north house very useful for retarding the 
plants. During the hot, bright sunshine of 
the past week it has been difficult to keep an 
ordinary plant-house cool enough without 
shade. Palms and other fine-foliaged plants 
soon lose tone if exposed to hct sunshine ; but 
when the roof is hung with climbers the tem¬ 
perature is lower, and plants suffer less on 
bright days. Damp the floors to create 
vapour. 

Cape Heaths. —A well-grown collection of 
Heaths is now a rarity, and yet how beautiful 
and interesting they are ! Some day, I sup¬ 
pose, they will come back again, as will also 
the beautiful New Holland or Australian 
plants. They disappeared because they could 
not give us longer-stalked flowers for cut¬ 
ting. We have, of course, the soft-wooded 
members of the family left, and very beautiful 
they are when in flower in winter and early 
spring. A well grown plant of Erica Caven- 
dishi, E. propendens, or of the ventricosu 
family, is always bright and interesting. It 
is probable that some might now find a diffi¬ 
culty in growing Heaths at first, hut their 
wants are exceedingly simple, and may be 
briefly summed up thus:—Clean pots care¬ 
fully drained, good fibrous peat and sharp 
sand, very firm potting (with the collar of the 
plant well up), very careful watering (especi¬ 
ally after repotting); but the person who has 
learnt from experience never need be in any 
difficulty after tapping the pot. Watering in 
driblets will not do. If the plant is dry all 
the soil must be moistened. Very little fire 
heat is required for this family, even in winter, 
but the ventilation must be perfect, and the 
house must be light. Their propagation from 
cuttings is not difficult under bell glasses in 
careful hands, but they should not be mixed 
up with other things. 

Plants for table decoration.— If this work 
forms a special feature of the establishment, 
a low span-roofed pit is the best place for 
them, and the part devoted to small Palms 
and Ferns must be shaded. Crotons and 
other bright-leaved plants do not want quite 
so much shade, as light is necessary to put on 
colour ; but in the middle of the day, when 
the sun is hot, even Crotons will lose their 
freshness if exposed to hot sunshine. A 
roller blind is the most suitable, as it can be 
let down when the heat is intense, and 
rolled up again when the sun goes under a 
cloud, or, at any rate, early in the afternoon. 
All the most useful plants for this work may 
be well grown in a house of this character, 
and it is best where possible to make a 
specialty of those plants which need the same 
treatment. 

Orchard house. —Trees in pots will now re¬ 
quire a good deal of water, with some stimu¬ 
lant in it once or twice a week. The liquid 
from a farmyard tan£ ^uuires addition 
when diluted. A bag^^p^tjiinl tili^tank 


will ho an improvement, as soot-water -svheu 
clear is a very useful stimulant for most 
things. If there is no farmyard tank to run to 
then something else must be used. Special 
manures for particular plants are blended 
now, and these answer very well, but what¬ 
ever is used is best given in the water. This 
refers to other fruits besides Peaches. Plums 
do well in pots, as do also Cherries, but 
Apricots are not always so satisfactory. 1 
have seen Apricots do well planted out in cool 
houses, but the ventilation must be very per¬ 
fect and the border must be firm. 

Pines. —This is a good time to shift on suc¬ 
cessions, and renew plunging beds. Suckers 
also may be taken from old stools, and 
started in 5-inch or 6 inch pots. Plunged in 
bottom heat they soon make roots, and grow 
freely. Pines are not difficult to manage 
where there are heat and moisture ; but there 
must be root warmth as well as top heat. 
Watering must be in careful hands. 

Fine-foliaged plants for rooms.— When 
the sun gains power fine-foliaged plants are in 
greater demand. Palms are indispensable, 
and where gas is used Aspidistras are favour¬ 
ite plants. This is a suitable time for repot¬ 
ting these, and if the plants are too large 
division may take place. It is not wise to 
break them up too much unless there is a 
warm house to encourage root action for a 
time, but a large plant may be divided in the 
centre. 

Outdoor garden. —The last week in March 
and the early part of April are often very 
trying to newly planted shrubs and trees, 
especially those of an evergreen character. 
Those things when carefully planted ought 
not to die, but they very often do, entirely 
through neglect. A mulch of manure on the 
surface, and watering when necessary, will 
keep things 6afe, but the difficulty with many 
people is to know when and how to water. 
Some of my amateur friends never think a 
plant or shrub requires water till the leaves 
are turning brown, and then when it is too 
late to save life they flood the ground. Try 
to anticipate this period, and very often a 
sprinkling overhead in the afternoon of a 
bright day will be of more service than giving 
so much water to the roots when they are not 
in a condition from recent removal to take it 
up. This is a very good season to move ever¬ 
greens if the watering is in careful hands. 
All late flowering perennials may bo tran.s- 
planted. This refers to such things as Star 1 
worts or Michaelmas Daisies, Phloxes, Gail- 
lardias, Rudbeckias, Japanese Anemones, 
and all tilings which flower late in summer 
or autumn. Get all Gladioli planted. Sow 
seeds of biennials and perennials. All things 
are best sown in drills, as they are easily kept 
clean. Mulch newly planted Carnations, and 
water if necessary. Make new plantation of 
Violets for frames. 

Fruit garden.— Get on with the grafting, 
as the sap is running freely now. Those who 
use heavy coverings to protect blossoms of 
fruit-trees should uncover on bright days to 
strengthen the growth. Look sharp after in¬ 
sects, and use the Tobacco-powder distributor 
when the first fly appears, and there will 
probably be either green or black-fly on the 
Peaches now if nothing is done. Tobacco- 
powder used in time is a sure remedy, and the 
cost is so trifling. A shilling tin will keep 
the trees a long while clean if used in time. 
Do not wait till the leaves begin to curl. Use 
the Tobacco-powder when the leaves are dry ; 
it is more penetrating, and more destructive 
to the insects. It will not injure the blos¬ 
soms, and very often the flies are there before 
the blossoms are set, when a liquid wash 
might be objectionable. Do not be in a hurry 
to begin disbudding too early. We shall 
probably have cold weather yet, and the 
foliage will help to shelter the" young fruit. 
Some of the best of the forced Strawberries 
may be set on one side and watered when 
necessary till it is convenient to plant them 
out. Healthy plants of Royal Sovereign will 
produce another crop towards the end of the 
summer, and come in useful. Mulch with 
good short manure beds of alpine Straw¬ 
berries, and cut off the early blossoms. 

Vegetable garden. - Plant dwarf French 


Beans on the warm border, and start a few 
Scarlet and other Runners in boxes for trans¬ 
planting. Prepare Celery trenches, and 
plant Lettuces on the ridges. Sow Lettuces 
in 6mall quantities fortnightly, so as to always 
have young plants coming on. Broad Beans 
and Marrow Peas planted now will be sure 
to come in right. Prepare a site for Vege¬ 
table Marrows and Ridge Cucumbers. Work 
in some good loam round the roots ; it will be 
more serviceable than so much manure, which 
results in gross growth and few fruits. Earth 
up early Cauliflowers, and tie the leaves of 
early Cabbages together loosely, to hasten 
hearting. Make new beds of herbs. It is 
well to have plenty of Mint. We have two 
beds, one in a south aspect, for early use, ami 
one in a cool position, to come later, and 
then, of course, roots are wanted to supply 
Green Mint in winter. Tarragon is often 
wanted for flavouring, and the annual herbs, 
Basil, Savory, and Sweet Marjoram, should 
be sown now, the two former in heat for trans¬ 
planting and the Savory outside. Sow 
plenty of Parsley and Chervil. 

E. Hobday. 


THE COXING WEEK’S WORK. 

Extracts from a Garden Diary. 

April 22nd. —We grow a goed many of the 
common forms of Cypripedium. These have 
been overhauled, and, these requiring it, 
repotted in well-drained pots in very fibrous 
material. The water-pot will be in careful 
hands. Sowed main crop of Long Beet. 
Peach-trees on walls have been examined, and 
where any fly is present Tobacco-powder has 
been used. 'Disbudding Peaches on walls will 
be deferred for another week, as cold nights 
may yet come. 

April SSrd. —Filled several baskets with 
Asparagus Sprengeri and A. plumosus. The 
latter is not so common in baskets as Spren- 
geri, but when well established throws out 
long trails, which are useful for cutting. 
Thinned the young growth of Figs in warm 
house, and pinched the shoots to the fifth 
leaf. Sublaterals are not permitted to extend 
on Vines to crowd the main leaves. Filled a 
number of 6-inch pots with Lily of the Valley 
crowns, so as to make good potfuls when in 
flower. They will come on in frames now. 

Ajrril 2f,th •—Filled a number of pans with 
Selaginellas. They come on well in a damp, 
shady place where there is some warmth. 
Put in more cuttings of Begonias and Poin- 
settias in brisk bottom heat. The early- 
rooted cuttings have been potted off. Planted 
out 1 foot apart Violet cuttings which were 
well rooted. The land has been specially 
prepared. La France, Princess of Wales, 
Admiral Avellan, and the Czar are grown. 
The last is best for winter flowering outside. 

April 25th.— Examined inside fruit border, 
and moistened with liquid-manure when dry. 
The ventilation of fruit houses is very care¬ 
fully managed, commencing early in the 
morning in a small way, and meeting the 
rising temperature by opening ventilators a 
little wider. More moisture is used on bright 
days. Damping down in the middle of the 
day when the sun is hot is a great help. Re¬ 
cently-moved evprgreens are sprinkled every 
afternoon to keep the foliage fresh. 

April 26th. — Chrysanthemums are being 
shifted into large pots. Loam of the best 
quality obtainable is enriched to meet the 
needs of the different plants. Firm potting is 
essential. Staked Carnations throwing up 
flower-spikes. Potted off a lot of cuttings of 
Coleuses. There is not much demand for 
these now, but a few are useful where colour 
is wanted, and they are easily grown. Filled 
a warm frame with cuttings of Alternantheras 
for edgings. These things have lost caste 
now. 

April 27th.— Several beds have been thinly 
filled with Violas, to form groundwork for 
tender plants when the latter are ready. Blue 
Violas and silver-leaved Geraniums make a 
pretty mixture. Spring flowers are late this 
season, and some of the plants intended to 
fill beds later will be shifted into larger pots, 
and when the beds arc filled with strong 
plants in bloom there is no break, and the 
spring flowers are enjoyed as long as possible. 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Ariui, 20, 1907 


106 


nice, sturdy, bushy plants, and then pot up next 
October? Prune them back to about 1 foot of the 
ground now. Two and three-year-old own-root plants 
make splendid stuff for pots. These, which are largely 
grown by market growers, are potted early in Octo¬ 
ber and pruned back to about 1 foot of their base. 
ByNovember the plants are brought into a ccol green¬ 
house, and, as root action extends, the plants may be 
aflorded more heat. Such plants will usually carry 
from two to three splendid clusters of their brilliant 
flowers, and they make beautiful little pot plants for 
table decoration. 

Tuberoses in cold frame (C. T. HaUam ).—These 
are by no means so difficult to cultivate as many 
amateurs suppose, and anyone who has a greenhouse 
or pit may safely invest iu, u few- roots of these with 
every prospect of getting a good return. Although 
owners of stoves may enjoy their Tuberoses nearly 
all the year round, the owner of a greenhouse, who 
depends more upon solar heat than artificial Pre¬ 
heat to do the forcing, can only expect to flower them 
well during the latter part of summer. Anyone de¬ 
sirous of giving them n trial should lose i:o time in 
getting the best bulbs he can, potting them at once 
in a mixture of peat, leaf-mould, loam, and sand. 
Small pots are best for starting them in, and when 
fairly staited into growth shilt them into pots 5 inches 
or ti inches in diameter, but before put ting remove 
all the little scale-like growths that Usually are found 
at the base of the bulb, as they only weaken the 
central flowering spike. If the soil is moist when 
potting is done no water will be needed for some 
time. Set the pots in the warmest part of the frame 
or glass-house, and syringe lightly on sunny days, and 
when the central growth pushes up and roots are 
active, plenty of water may be given, syringing every 
day in hot weather, as Tuberoses are liable to red- 
spider if kept in dry heat. In August and Septem¬ 
ber you will be rewarded with lovely spikes of bloom. 
The Calceolarias arc of no use for flowering a second 
year, and are always thrown away when blooming is 
over. 

Chrysanthemums growing too tall (Cymro).— 
Without seeing the plants it is not possible to deter¬ 
mine the cause of your plants growing so tall. 
However, as you want the plants to flower on shoots 
of dwarf or moderate height, you may safely cut 
down the collection in various sections, in this way 
spreading the flowering "period over as long a season 
as possible. The plants will break into new growth 
immediately below that point ot the stem where the 
cut is made. Do not cut down to that part of the 
stem where the leaves have all perished, nor cut 
back to ttie hard wood. You may safely cut back 
the shoot to two or three leaves, so long as the wood 
is fairly green. Commence in early May with Bonnie’ 
Dundee, Mmc. Fcrlat, Niveum, Simplicity, Mons.A.K. 
Carriere. and International. About the middle of 
May follow on with Florence Davis, W. R. Church, 
Godfrey's Masterpiece, N.C.S. Jubilee, Nellie Rockett, 
Mrs. White Popham, W. Duckham, King of Yellows, 
Globe d'Or, Australian Belle, Oceana, Australia, Lhdy 
Phillips, and General Hutton. At the end of May 
finish with Phoebus, Vi viand Morel, Mme. Carnot, 
G. J. Warren, Mrs. W. Mease, Le Grand Dragon, 
Baden Powell. Lady Selbornc, Mrs. Coombes, M. R. 
Bahuant, Mile. Gabrielle Debrie, Soleil d'Octobre, 
and Ren£e. Those in your selection not mentioned 
are not of general interest to our readers. Keep the 
plants rather dry for a time after cutting back. 

Mareclial Niel Roses in a sickly condition 
(John Murton ).—We saw no evidence of any insect 
pest having eaten the bud which you forwarded, but, 
as you say many of the buds are eaten, we can only 
assume the mischief is caused by ants or weevils. If 
you take a lantern at night and watch, you may 
catch the depredators. Both the buds and foliage 
sent exhibited evidence of some cultural defect, doubt¬ 
less at. the root, and, probably, you have made 
matters worse by applying artificial manure, for it is 
only the healthy and strong that can utilise these 
strong fertilisers. A little weak liquid cow-manure 
would have been better. Such rapid-growing Hoses 
as Marshal Niel and Gloire de Dijon need good, 
deep borders—a depth of from 2 feet to 3 feet of 
good soil being none too much. Frequently, these 
Roses when procured in pots are set in the ground 
without even pres ing the ball of caith, and sometia es 
exceedingly dry at the root a condition of things 
quite inimical to successful culture. We should ad¬ 
vise you to stop the artificial manure at once and re¬ 
move all the unhealthy-looking flower-buds. Try and 
promote a healthy growth by keeping the house 
fairly close and pruning back some of the soft-looking 
wood. If you have reason to believe the roots have 
not sufficient depth of soil, try and excavate around 
them without actually disturbing, and give them some 
good loam with a liberal amount of good, well-de¬ 
cayed farmyard manure. If you do this, you should 
have this summer some fine new growths, which, if 
they are allowed plenty of air in autumn, will so 
ripen that a plentiful crop of blossom inay be ex¬ 
pected next season. 

FRUIT. 


makes no flower-buds during this year, we thiuk the 
tree is not too old or large to have it lifted, with 
care, and replanted, especially that its present posi¬ 
tion at the end of a herbaceous border docs not seem 
to be a suitable one. That you get fruit from your 
other trees rather leads to the inference that this 
barren one is in the wrong place. As to root-prun¬ 
ing, it that be completely done, the need for lifting 
and replanting a tree is usually avoided. Still, it may 
be possible that some strong vertical roots have not 
been severed, and. if so, then perhaps only by lifting 
and replanting properly can the renovation sought for 
be accomplished. 

Disbudding Peaches (A. C. R .).—The position 
of the fruit docs not govern the disbudding of the 
Peach-tree, for with a full or even half a crop there 
is always plenty to choose between for giving the fruit 
a good position and the shoots also. A rule always 
followed is to select the best-placed shoot at the base 
of the fruiting branch, this provides the fruiting 
branch for next year; between this shoot and one at 
the extremity there will not need to be another, ex¬ 
cept in medium and very strong fruiting branches, in 
which cases one may be left midway between the two. 
This, then, allows plenty of scope for the fruit, which 
in any case should not exceed one fruit to a branch— 
that Is, when there is an even set over the tree. You 
will thus see that the vexed question of which you 
seek information is of small importance. Never leave 
two fruits at one Joint, because one is ample, and 
choose those Peaches for your crop that can be fully 
exposed to the sun, and which occur on the upper 
side of the roof trellis and the front of that on the 
back wall. As your fruit is just set, you will have 
ample opportunity of thinning these and removing the 
superfluous shoyts at the same time. 


SHORT REPLIES. 


F. E/>ps.~ If the FernR do well, you will not want any¬ 
thing to grow underneath them.-L. R .—We know of 

no such book as you inquire about.- Carno.- It is too 

late, we fear, now to attempt using the caustic polntion, 
and you will have to defer applying it till the foliage has 
fallen in the autumn. F. C.- Please tend specimen of 

the grub to which you refer.- E. A. —KiDdly send a 

piece of wood with the insect on, and we will then do our 

best to help you.- T. Arthur. —Your best plan will l»e 

to submit the two books you mention to seine second¬ 
hand bookseller, but we fear they are of little \aluenowa¬ 
days.- II. R.—Not a gardening query.-A Salopian 

Reader.—\, You ought to vint some good garden or nnr- 
sery where fruit-trees are largely grown. Your othtr 

queries will be attended to in clue course.- K. M. A. — 

Yes, there are single and double white forms of Wistaria. 
—Btdding Out.— 1, Use the Perida in the centre, aa we 
fear it will overtop the Begonia ; 2, Begonia Worthiana ; 
8 , Mrs. Pollock Pelargonium, or, if you like, the Ivy. 

leaved Pelargonium, pegging Ihe shoots down.-- D. P. 

- The plants have been too thick in the feed-pans, caus¬ 
ing them to become drawn. You are ulao keeping them 
much too hot. They will never do any good, and your 
best plan will be to sow again at once, or buy sinnll sturdy' 

plants in pots.- Z. N , Liverpool.— Allow the flowers 

and foliage to die off naturally, this ttrengthening the 

bulbs for the following year. - Car no .— S.You c*n sow 

the seedB as you wbh. The bone-msal will not injure 
them in the hast. You had better loosen up the bare 
patches before you sow the reed, and thus amalgamate 
the bone-meal and the soil.— -Beecheroft.— Your Cine¬ 
rarias have been attached by the grubs of the Marguerite 
Daisy-fly. See reply to “ J. A. D.” in our issue of 

March 2:t, p. 44.- Carnation.— See exhaustive article on 

Indian Azalens in our issue of April 6, p. 75. From the 
appearance of the Carnations you send the cause seems 

to he due to overwatering and not giving enough air.- 

Q. E. IU.—You cannot, do better than plant Tufted 

Pansies (Yiolas).- X. Z.— It will not injure the Ivy 

in the least to cut it. in hard. This should he done every 

year.- H. R. C —Your best plan will be to write to 

some manure merchant, or you might write to the author 

of the book you mention.- liortvs Siccus.—We would 

advise you to get a copy of “ Alp*ne Flowers for Gardets,” 
in which the formation and planting of rock gardens are 

fully dealt with and illustrations given.- K. if.— 1, The 

casks ought to be replanted every year, using fresh 
runners at each planting. 2, One and a half pounds pi r 
fquare rod is meant. Hand#worth. —From the speci¬ 
mens you send, we should say that the damage has been 
done by birds, or it may be owing to frost. You sav the 
trees are old, and it may be that the failure is due to 

insufficient root action. - if. C. C.— Write to L. Upcott 

Gill, Drury lane, W C. Lea-icon.—Before doing any¬ 
thing we would strongly advise you to consult a hoi-water 
engineer. You say nothing os to the size of the boiler 
you have, and it may be that this is too small for its work. 
There are so many probable causes of the failure that 
without seeing the house it is impossible to tuggest any 
reason. _ 


NAMES OF PLANTS AND FRUITS. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

Questions.— Queries and answers are inserted in 
Gardf.ni.xo free of charge if correspondents follow these 
rules : All communications should be clearly and concisely 
written on one sulc of the paper only , and addressed to 
the Editor of Gardening, 17, Fur nival-street, Ilolbom, 
London, E.C. Letters on business should be sent to the 
PUBU8U.ER. The name and address of the sender are 
required in addition to any designation he may desire to 
be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, 
each should be on a separate piece of paper, and not more 
than three queries should be sent at a time. Correspon¬ 
dents should bear in mind that, as Gardening has to be 
sent to press some time in advance of date, queries cannot 
always be replied to in the issue immediately following 
the receipt of their communication. Wc do hot reply to 
queries by post. 

Naming fruit.— Renders who desire our help in 
naming fruit shouhl bear in mind that several specimens 
in different stages of colour and siz 2 of the same kind 
greatly assist in its determination. We have received from 
several correspondents single specimens of fruits for 
naming, these, in many cases beiiuj unripe and other¬ 
wise poor. The diferences between varieties of fruits are 
in many cases so t rid ing that it is necessary that three 
specimens of each kind should be sent. We can undertake 
to name only four varieties at a time, and these only when 
the above directions are observed. 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

Plants under greenhouse stage (F. Epps).— 
The stronger varieties of Begonia Rex w ill do, as well 
us Panicum variegaturn and Tradesoantin zehrina. 
Of Ferns, you can try Adiantum euneatum, Nbphro- 
dium molle, Pteris serrulata, and Woodwardia radi¬ 
cals. Selaginellas as follows will also do well. viz.: 
8. Kraussiana, 8. K. aurea, 8. cassia. You might 
also try Farfugium grande and Ficus repens. 

Destroying slugs (Carno ).—To destroy slugs get 
fresh lime, slack it in a dry shed, then at night, 
when the slugs are out, liberally smother the ground 
with it. If you can do this for a few weeks, 
alternating the lime dressing with one of fresh soot, 
you will soon clear the slugs off. The dressing must 
always be put on when the slugs are feeding. In 
the spring, when young seedlings are coming through 
the ground, similar dressings must be applied to 
destroy the young slugs. 

Plants for a covered-in ditch (J. IF. Fowler).— 
There are many things you might plant almost at 
once and with good chance of their flowering this 
year. If you wish for something not quite common¬ 
place, we know of no plant likely to suit you better 
than Iris Kiempfori, the Japanese Flag Iris. These 
you could obtain in mixture, and their huge petalled 
flowers always give satisfaction. For example, you 
could plant the Iris above-named with Lilium purda- 
linura and L. canadense, Trollius Fortuuei, T. Orange 
Globe. T. napellifolius, such Primulas as denticulata, 
japoniea, rosea, and Sieboldi in variety, and make a 
most delightful feature of the spot. If you so de¬ 
sired, you could add some of the Star and Poets' 
Narcissi in autumn, with the Snow Glory (Chionodoxa) 
for a carpet, or you might plant or sow the Myo- 
sotis and the lovely Omphalodes verna, which later 
would soon carpet the damp and shady place you 
speak of, and afford a picture of beauty and variety 
from spring to late summer. 

Treatment of Phvllocactus (J . J.).— The Phyl- 
locactus, a' piece of which you send, begins to make 
Jresh-growth about the beginning of April, and keeps 
on growing till August. When growing, the plants 
should be kept just moist at the roots, and syringed 
overhead once or twice a day in hot weather. They 
like full sunlight, plenty of fresh air, and a tempera¬ 
ture of not less than t>5 degrees at night. The soil 
should be a mixture of light loain, well-rotted cow- 
manure, and "brick-rubbish or coarse sand, and the 
pot 9 should be n quarter filled with drainage. When 
growth is finished, the. plants should he kept drier 
and given more air. They flower from April onwards, 
and should be potted when they have done bloom¬ 
ing. If your plant is doing well, leave it alone, as 
the less the Phyllocactus is disturbed at the ropt the 
better will it be. The great points are to see that 
the drainage does not get choked up and the plants 
are not over-watered, as if this happens the roots 
perish and the pldnts die off at the neck. 

Euiphyllum truncatum (J. J.).— The specimen 
of Cactus sent is Epiphyllum truncatum, of which 
there are several varieties. To grow' them success¬ 
fully they must have during the winter a tempera¬ 
ture of 60 degs., or it may be 2 degs. or 3 degs. lower. 
They need a compost consisting principally of loam, 
broken bricks, and sand, with a little peat or leaf- 
mould if the loam Is very heavy. Repotting should 
he done early in the year after the flowering season 
is over. Though the soil must be kept fairly moist, 
care is necessary not to over-water the plants, and. 
like most subjects of a succulent nature, an excess 
of moisture is far more fatal than drought. During 
the summer they will succeed in a good light window, 
where but slightly shaded from the sun’s Tays. Surli 
treatment is very necessary ia order to induce the 
formation of flower-buds. Throughout the growing 
season a little weak liquid-manure occasionally is of 
service. As autumn advances a little heat is neces¬ 
sary for the development of the buds which, as a 
rule, commence to expand about the end of Novem¬ 
ber. The pot must be well drained with broken 
crocks. 

Potting Rambler Roses (E. A.).—As a rule, 
Rose-plants from the open ground are best potted up 
in the early autumn, but we should say your little 
plants will succeed if potted up now. It would he 
best, after potting them, to plunge the pots right 
over in some ashes in a shady place, and then in 
about a month’s time new roots will have formed, and 
the plants may be grown on in a cool greenhouse or 
pit for a time, and flnaB^p the open foj the sum¬ 
mer. As you say you /ave seiteral of-^Ase^rooted 
cuttings, why not cut tfcwn-iAfAv in fcrltfito make. 


Mulberry not fruiting (John Drew ).—Few fruit- 
trees bloom more freely and regularly than the Mul¬ 
berry, and possibly your tree is too vigorous, caus¬ 
ing the growth to he very strong. No doubt, if you 
could root-prune your tree next autumn by opening 
round it a trench a few feet from the stem, cutting 
off all roots and refilling the trench with soil, you 
would check such exuberant growth. It is also just 
possible that the roots are in a very dry subsoil. If 
so, then roll the turf off now if the tree is on 
Grass, loosen the surface, and give a thorough soak¬ 
ing of water, afterwards forking in 6ome good rotten 
manure before relaying the turf. Thoroughly soak 
the soil round the tree two or three times during 
the summer, and given this treatment the tree will, 
we think, fruit freely. 

Fruitless Pear-tree (E . A/.).— Your Pear-tree, 
although seven years planted, may yet be of the 
strong-growing section, which, worked on the Pear- 
stock, seldom fruits until it is some years old. It is 
possible that it may be an unworked seedling. If it 


Names of plants.— U. R. IT.—Oentaurea ragusinn. 

- F. S. Arnold — Oupresf»u9 Lawsoni.- Arbor— 1, 

Berberis Parwini ; 2, The Lauruetinus (Viburnum Tinus), 
- L. A’.—Cornua mas. J. J.— 1. Epiphyllum trun¬ 
catum, eee note for culture ; 2, Phyllocactus variety, see 
note for treatment ; 3, Saxifruga Wallacei, we think, but 
must have flow*i-.-— M. D. C .—The Portuguese Heath 

(Erica lusitanica) (syn. E. codonodes). - Leins Jones.— 

Winter Cress (Bnrbarea vulgaris).- E. JL—F.uphorbia 

Jacquinia:fiora. See article in our issue of Feb. 18, 1905, a 
copy of which can be had of the publisher, post free, for 

ljd.- W. II. Smith.— 1, Lselia anceps ; 2, Odontoglos- 

sum Rossi; 3, Ccelogyne erbtata.- E. L. Spencer. — 

Aloe verrucosa (syn. tiasteria verrucosa).— —Ryecroft .— 

Scopoliacarniolica, belonging to the Solanum family.- 

Oxford.— 1, Azolla caroliniana ; 2, Cryptomeria elegans. 


Catalogue reoeived.-^anboi Furniture and 
Ornament.—J. P. White, Bedford. 



GARDENING 


ILLUSTRATED 


No. 1,468 .—Vol. XXIX. 


Founded by W. Robinson, Author of “ The English Flower Garden.” 


A1TJL 27, 1907. 


INDEX. 


Amaryllises unhealthy US 

Ampelopaia Veitchi .. 118 j 

Beaus, French, growing 
in frames .. .. 108 

Bees.117 | 

Birds .117 

(.'u!an the igneo oculafca 
gigantca .. .. 113 

Camellias in a cold- 
house .. .. .. 118 

Chrysanthemums 114 j 

Chrysanthemums for 
the conservatory .. 114 

Chrysanthemums sea¬ 
sonable hints .. .. 114 

Climbers, evergreen, for 
n >rlh wall .. .. 118 


Cockscombs and Bal¬ 
sams .118 

Cordon trees, pruning 

wall .108 

Cornflower or Knap¬ 
weed (Ccntanroa), Per¬ 
ennial .109 

Cropping old meadow- 

land .108 

Cyrtanthi in flower .. 112 
Daffodils not flowering 118 
Dahlias, Cactus .. .. 110 

Krica Wiluioreana 112 

Fern, Maiden-hair, in a 
wire-basket .. .. 118 

Ferns, Maiden-hair, in a 
room, treatment of .. 118 


Mower notes, hardy .. 110 

Fruit .107 

Fruit garden .. 11*1 

Fruit-houses, ventilat¬ 
ing .116 I 

Fruit-trees, mulching .. 118 I 
Fruits, seedling - tree, 

grafting. 118 1 

Fruits, small, the culti¬ 
vation of .. .. 107 

Carden pests and 

friends.114 

Garden work .. 116 

Grass, short, for hot- 

IxhU .118 

Gyjisophila panieulata, 
raising, from sued 111 


Hipp'ftMlnmi (Amaryl- 


Its) equentro 

112 

Hollies, pruning.. 

I IK 

Insects in garden 

IF. 

Insect* in house.. 

113 

Law and custom 

117 

M usHcl scale 

114 

Myrtle leaves falling .. 

118 

Orchids. 

118 

Outdoor garden .. 

116 

Outdoor plants .. .. 

109 

Palms losing their lower 


leaves . 

118 

Pansies, Tufted, group- 



110 

Perennials to grow at 


Hyeroa. 

111 


l’its and frames.. .. 108 

Plants and flowers .. 109 
Plums, forcing, into 

bloom.112 

Plants for vases .. .. 118 

Plants, overfeeding .. 112 
Plants, wall .. .. Ill 

Potato Early Rose .. 108 

Poultry.117 

Primroses, reversion in 

«lou bio.Ill 

Rhododendron walk at 

Kew .Ill 

Rhododendrons, prun¬ 
ing .118 

Rose Oberhofgartmr A. 
Singer.113 


Roses .115 


Roses for exhibit ion .. 

! 1 . 

Roses fr 

oiu cut tings 

115 

Hclagiiiclla Kmiliana .. 

112 

Shrubs 

in pot*, Holes 


Oil.. 

112 

Stove 


116 

Tennis- 

,iwn, marking a 

118 

1 omatoos, early .. 

116 

Vegetable garden 

116 

N ine-shoota. st opping .. 

118 

Violets 

outdoor.. 

lir.» 

Wall flo 



frost 


110 

Weeks 

work, tho com- 


ing 


116 

Window 

s, outside tho ., 

116 


FRUIT. 

THE CULTIVATION OF SMALL 
FRUITS. 

When the small initial outlay required for 
the purchase of buflhes, and the comparatively 
small amount of attention and skill necessary 
in their culture are taken into consideration, 
there would appear to be no reason why a 
few fruit-bushes at least should not find a 
place in every garden. The advantages to be 
derived from n supply of wholesome fruit, as 
an article of diet for homo use are consider¬ 
able. 

The Gooseberry. Gooseberries may be 
grown in almost any situation and on a wide 
range of soils. Light gravelly, and wet un- 
draiued soils are, however, unsuitable, the 
former on account of the liability to drought, 
the latter because of the likelihood of injury 
to the roots of the bushes by stagnant water. 
The most suitable soil is a strong loam, and 
the best situation a south-west aspect shel¬ 
tered from strong winds. Gooseberries suc¬ 
ceed better when planted on new ground than 
when planted in old gardens. When pre¬ 
paring new ground manure is not necessary 
the first year, but old ground should be 
trenched to a depth of 15 inches to 18 inches, 
and a good dressing of well-rotted farmyard 
manure dug in at the time of trenching. In 
small gardens the bushes may be planted in 
a row 4 feet from the edge of the walk, and 

5 feet apart from each other in the row. 
This arrangement will leave room for a border 
between the bushes and the walk. When 
making a largo plantation the bushes should 
be put in lines 5 feet apart each way. In 
case the plantation is wanted for growing 
vegetables for a few years, the lines may be 

6 feet apart and the bushes 4 feet apart in 
the lines. Gooseberry-hushes are best 
planted early in November. The work may 
he carried out. however, at any time during 
the winter until March, provided the ground 
is in good working condition and the weather 
favourable. The roots of the bushes are 
liable to injury if planting is done during 
frosty weather; again, boiI worked in wet, 
weather will be liablo to crack on becoming 
dry, and the treos will probably suffer from 
drought in early summer. Holes should be 
prepared about 2 feet in diameter and 
9 inches deep, and the bushes placed in the 
centre of the holes. Care is necessary when 
filling in the holes to surround the roots with 
fine soil and at the same time to keep them 
separated from each other. Manure should 
not be permitted to come into contact with 
the roots at the time of planting. The holes 
may be filled up level, and the soil made 
moderately firm. An application of strawy 
manure round each plant in late spring 
will check the evaporation of moisture, 
arid thereby greatly benefit the plants. 
Pruning ie a most^jmportant iteration, 
especially whilst tlfcbu^hjs erMgmg. It 


may be performed at any time during the 
winter from the fall of the leaf to the end of 
February ; the principal aim being to keep 
the centre of the bush open by cutting out all 
cross-shoots and to leave the branches so that 
each shoot has free access to light and air, 
which are alike necessary for the ripening of 
the fruit and the maturing of the young shoots 
and fruit buds. This arrangement of the 
branches also greatly facilitates the operation 
of gathering the fruit. Any suckers coming 
from below the surface of the soil should be 
cut away at their base. Dead spurs and 
branches require to be cut clean back close 
to the living wood so as to arrest, further 
decay. Leading shoots should ho shortened 
by removing a quarter of the last season’s 
growth, and any side shoots which are not 
required to fill in the bush should be spurred 
back to a length of one and a half inches. 
As the best fruit is borne oil the young 
shoots, as much old wood as possible should 
be removed. 

Black Currants. The method of pre¬ 
paring the ground for Black Currants is 
similar to that for Gooseberries, though Cur¬ 
rants will grow well in the most shady part of 
the garden, and soil that will produce good 
Gooseberries is also suitable for Black Cur¬ 
rants. As Black Currant bushes grow' larger 
and more rapidly than Gooseberry bushes, 
they should be allowed more space, and when 
making a plantation the lines should he 6 feet 
apart, and tho plants 5 feet apart in the lines, 
or 2£ feet apart at first, alternate plants being 
removed the second year. Choose clean 
strong plants from three to four years old 
without any obvious stems, tho branches 
coming from the ground level. These plants 
will bear fruit the following year. Planting 
may bo carried out at any time from 
the end of October to tho middle of Feb¬ 
ruary, the earlier the better, as the plant* 
commence to grow' very early in tho epring. 
Pruning, which should be carried out in 
November or December, consists chiefly in 
thinning out the old branches to admit light 
and air, and to allow tho young branches 
room to grow* up from tho base to replace 
the old ones, thus keeping in as much of the 
young growth as possible. Misplaced shoots, 
and those which cross the main branches, 
should be cut out, all dead branches removed, 
and young growths encouraged, as the fruit is 
borne on tho new growth. When the pruning 
is completed the clippings should be gathered 
and burnt at once. Tho ground ought then 
to bo lightly forked over, caro being taken not 
to injure tho roots of the bushes, and a good 
dressing of farmyard manure added. 

Red Currants and White Currants.— 
The preparation of the ground for Red and 
also White Currants may be done in a similar 
manner to that recommended for Goose¬ 
berries, and they are suited for growing on 
the same class of soil and in a like situation. 
Not being such rapid growers as the Black 
Currant less space is required when planting 
Red or White Currants, 5 feet between the 


rows and 4 feet from bush to hush being 
sufficient room to allow. Though they may 
be planted at any time between November 
and March, early planting is recommended 
provided tho weather conditions are favour¬ 
able. Good strong plants, about three years 
old, and with ns many stems n.s possible, 
should be chosen. Pruning of Red and 
White Currants is different from that 
required for Black Currants. It consists 
in training up eight or ten branches, cup 
shape, from the main stem or baso to 
form the bush, cutting out all cross and centre 
shoots in order to keep tho bush open. Side 
shoots growing on these branches should ho 
cut back to about one and a-half inches from 
their base to form spurs, and tho leading 
shoot to about one half its length. As the 
fruit is borne on these spurn the object of the 
primer should bo to encourage the formation 
of fruit-spurs, and not that of young grow th, 
as in tho case of the Black Currant. 

The Raspberry. —The soil and situation 
fluitnblo for the cultivation of Black Currants 
will do also for tho Raspberry, but it will suc¬ 
ceed even in tho most shady place in the 
garden. In preparing the ground it is neces¬ 
sary to trench at least 1} feet deep, and nt 
the samo time to give a good dressing of farm¬ 
yard manure. Well-rooted canes should he 
chosen and planted in clumps 4 feet apart 
each way, placing three canes in each clump. 
The holes should ho opened to the extent of 
II feet wide and 6 inches deep, and tho three 
canes placed about 9 inches apart in the form 
of a triangle ; the root* well spread out, and 
tho soil filled in and made moderately firm. 
The canes may also bo planted in lines 4 feet 
apart, with 1 foot between the plants in the 
lines. When planted, cut the canes back to 
about-9 inches from the ground, so as to pro¬ 
mote tho growth of strong suckers from the 
base. In March a covering of farmyard 
manure should be placed round each clump, 
this keeps in tho moisture and greatly benefits 
them, as they aro eurface-rooting plants. 
The ground should be kept clear of weeds 
throughout tho summer by hoeing. If too 
many suckers appear they require thinning 
out 6o as to leave six or eight of the strongest 
in a clump. In December the strongest young 
canes in each clump should be tied loosely 
together, giving earh cane plenty of room ; if 
tied in a tight bundle tho inner buds will 
suffer. A good system of support is by means 
of two wires, stretched along tho lino of 
plants, and attached to a post at each end, 
one of the wires being 2 feet and the other 
3} feet from the ground, the canes being 
secured to the wires by twine. Immediately 
the canes have ceased fruiting, they should 1>« 
cut out so as to afford more light and air to 
the young growth, and enable the wood to get 
thoroughly ripened. The only other pruning 
necessary is to cut from a couple of inches 
to one foot, according to the height of the 
plants, off the tops of the young canes. This 
may be done in January or February. The 
strong growing varieties w ill not need staking, 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 













108 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


April 27, 1907 


the weaker sorts require a stake to each 
clump. 

The Strawberry.— The Strawberry is the 
most easily grown of cultivated fruits, and 
with proper attention will give good results in 
almost any soil. The direct returns realised, 
however, will be found to be in proportion to 
the amount of skill and labour bestowed upon 
its cultivation. The most suitable soil is a 
good strong loam thoroughly drained, and in 
a well-sheltered position facing south. In a 
small garden Strawberries may be planted in 
ground previously cropped with early Pota¬ 
toes, Cabbages, or Peas. In this case the 
ground should be well dug and a good dress¬ 
ing of farmyard manure added at the same 
time. When planting a large plot the ground 
is best prepared by first taking a crop of early 
Potatoes, followed by deep cultivation. The 
land should then be put in ridges 30 inches 
apart, and a good dressing of farmyard 
manure placed in the bottom of the drill. The 
drills should bo made firm by rolling, the 
Strawberries being afterward planted on the 
tops of the drills ; the plants of dwarf-grow- 
ing varieties being placed 20 inches apart, 
and the taller and stronger varieties 24 inches 
apart. On light soils it is not advisable to 
raise drills, but to deeply plough in the 
manuro and to plant on the level. In a small 
garden after trenching the ground it should 
be levelled and made fine on the surface, and 
the plants placed in lines 2 feet apart every 
way. Strawberries may also be planted as an 
edging to a walk, in which caso they should 
be placed 1^ feet apart. Good strong 
runners should be selected as early in August 
as possible, making sure that they are from 
prolific plants. Care should be taken not to 
plant too deeply, keeping the crown just 
above the surface of the soil, and making the 
soil firm round the plants. Showery weather 
is very suitable for planting Strawberries ; if ! 
put down during dry weather the plants will 
need watering daily until they have rooted 
into the fresh soil, as newly-planted Straw¬ 
berries suffer very much from drought. 
During the remainder of the growing season 
the soil between the plants should be well 
stirred with a hoe at intervals to prevent the 
growth of weeds and lessen the evaporation 
of moisture ; such attention will greatly 
benefit the plants. The following spring, 
having first freed the ground from weeds, a 
dressing of strawy manure should be applied 
on the surface ; this will benefit the plants, 
and subsequently also keep the fruit clean. 
Strawberries treated in this manner will bear 
a nice crop of good early fruit in the following 
year. Runners not required for propagating 
should be cut off as they appear, as if left 
they weaken the plants considerably. The 
ground should be kept free of weeds at all 
times. The best fruit will be borne during 
the second year, and after the third season’s 
crop lias been gathered the plants should be 
dug in and a different crop planted. To main¬ 
tain a regular supply of fruit it is advisable 
to make a new plantation of Strawberries 
each year equal in extent to one-third of the 
area grown.— Department of Agriculture and 
Technical Instruction for Ireland. 


NOTES AND IMPLIES. 

Pruning wall cordon-trees —There are in the 

kitchen garden of my new house several eordon 
(oblique) Apples and Pears. Last summer the side 
shoots springing from the spurs on these seem to have 
been duly pinched, leaviug some four to five buds 
nn each shoot. Some of these pinched shoots have 
developed fruit-buds, others have not. I want to 
know whether these shoots should be cut back at the 
winter pruning (though it is almost too late to do 
this now, but it will be a guide to what should be 
done next winter)? If they should be cut back in 
winter closer to the main branch, please say how 
many buds should be left on each shoot at the winter 
shortening. Of course, where there is a bloom-bud 
developed on any shoot, one would not cut this off, 
even though it were several inches away from the 
main stem : but, unless the shoots are cut back fairly 
(lose to the main stem every year, it seems to me 
they would in a year or two get too far away from 
it to preserve the shape of a "cordon” tree.—C ots- 
wold. 

[Summer pruning is not duly completed un¬ 
less winter pruning follows. Shoots made 
during the summer, and then pinched or cut 
back to some four or five leaf-buds in July or 
August, are so pruned to cause the back or 
base buds to become /am%ll^ cony^rpd-j 11 ^ 0 



fruit-buds. If that check were not given, then 
the free sap flow in the shoot would merely 
result in the production of wood-buds, and 
the sort of shoot thus dealt with would next 
year if that were cut back in the winter, be 
reproduced the following year. When this 
6ummer pruning is properly done, and the 
base buds uudergo the natural change, the 
spur thus left should in the winter be cut back 
to two buds at least, and if both ultimately 
become fruit-buds, and seem to be too thickly 
placed, one can be removed. In the case of 
the fruit-buds on long spurs to which you 
refer, to keep the future buds close to the 
main stem, that spur, or all others like it, 
should be cut hard back after the fruit has 
been gathered. Very likely from the base of 
that cut back spur one or more wood buds 
would break, and the strongest could be re¬ 
tained to be summer pruned, and, later, winter 
pruned, and thus again form a fruit spur. The 
essence of fruit-tree pruning is the production 
of fruit spurs or buds rather than mere wood 
buds, but it is all the same quite impossi¬ 
ble to prevent the formation of some wood 
buds, as these both conduce to the health of 
the trees and to proper root action. It is 
when trees throw all wood buds, and few or 
no fruit buds, that drastic treatment, such as 
is found in root pruning, becomes so needful.] 


VEGETABLES. 

NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Cropping old meadow land — I have taken a 
new hou.se in Gloucestershire. As the kitchen garden 
is very small. I propose to take in, next autumn, 

1 rood from the adjacent meadow, which Blopes to¬ 
wards the south. On this I shall grow Potatoes and 
also Currants and Gooseberries. After the present 
crop of Grass lias been cut, 1 propose to have this 
rood of ground trenched ready for next year’s crop, 
and during the winter to plant half of it with Cur¬ 
rant and Gooseberry-hushes, leaving the other half 
for planting Potatoes next spring. The soil is a fairly 
light loam, about 18 inches deep, on a subsoil of 
limestone. I want to know whether, if I remove the 
turf before trenching the ground (as 1 want it to 
make a new lawn with, and also to stark lip for mak¬ 
ing potting soil), there will be any danger of wire- 
worm in the ground attacking the Potatoes? I have 
been told that old pastures are t usually infested with 
wireworm. If I ought to give a dressing of gas- 
lime to kill any wireworm, please say what quantity 
it would require to dress the rood of land, and if it 
should be mixed w ith the top spit or lower spit, and 
how long ought to elapse after the dressing before it 
would be safe to plaut the Gooseberry and Currant- 
bushes? Of course, the Potatoes would not be 
planted till the following April. I suppose the 
ground should be manured with good stable dung, in 
any case, for both Potatoes and fruit-bushes, and 1 
should like also to add some good artificial manure 
at the time of planting the Potato-sets—please say 
what artificial would be best for Potatoes on this 
class of soil, and the quantity requisite for | of an 
acre?—COTSWOLD. 

[As you propose using the turf removed from 
your rood of meadow land to make a lawn, 
presumably you will not do that till, say, next 
October. You should, so soon as the turf is 
taken off, have the ground trenched the full 
depth of the soil. Then, when done, at once 
top-dress with gas lime, very evenly spread 
over it at the rate of two bushels to three rods 
area. Let that lie exposed for four weeks, 
then have it further well spread, if not thor¬ 
oughly pulverised, at the first, and when that 
is done at once fork it in. So used it should 
be destructive to wireworm or other pests. 
Early in January further fork in a mixture 
of bone-flour and kainit, at the rate of 6 lb. 
per rod. That dressing should suffice for 
Potatoes, as the meadow is practically virgin 
soil. When the Potatoes are up give a further 
dressing of sulphate of ammonia at the rate 
of 3 lb. per rod, between the rows, and well 
hoe it in a week before moulding up is done. 
After the Potatoes are off a good dressing of 
animal manure, dug in, should put the soil 
into condition for carrying Peas, Beans, Cab¬ 
bages, or other crops. You may use soot very 
freely also before planting Potatoes. Too 
much manure may result in coarse growth, 
and much disease. With respect to Goose¬ 
berry and Currant-bushes, leave the planting 
until after the gas-lime dressing has been 
forked in a month. When planting, the arti¬ 
ficial manure dressing and soot may be added. 
A top-dressing of animal manure, placed about 
the bushes on the surface when planted, will 
be better than mixing it with the soil. When 
the bushes are well established then dressings 
of manure may be forked in about them each 


winter. Chemical manure added when Pota- 
toes are planted seldom becomes soluble for 
use that season.] 

Growing Prench Beans in frames.—Would 

you kindly give me your advice as to growing dwarf 
French Beans in frames? Owing to frosts in past 
years I never could gather any Beans, either by sow¬ 
ing in pots and then planting out or sowing early in 
May outside. 1 intend this year sowing a two-light 
frame in May in good loam from an old pasture, 
hardening the plants off by degrees till they do with¬ 
out any protection at night. In case of early frosts, 
the plants could be covered by the lights. Please let 
me know your views, and how they should be treated 
if grown us mentioned above?— Heather, Inverness. 

[You should experience no difficulty what¬ 
ever in growing French Beans in a frame as 
you propose, and by these means you will 
with proper attention be able to secure an 
early crop of nice tender Beans, particularly 
if you sow one of the varieties usually 
selected for forcing. You do not state the 
size of the frame, but this we assume is an 
ordinary sized one, both as regards length, 
width, and depth. With regard to the bed of 
soil in which you intend sowing the seed, wo 
thiuk it well to mention that tnis should not 
only be at the least 1 foot in depth, but that 
the surface of the bed must not be nearer the 
glass than 1 foot if a very dwarf variety is 
grown, and 15 inches for one of medium 
height. You will need this amount of space 
for the tops to be able to develop properly. 
Consequently, instead of placing the frame in 
position, and then putting in the soil, you 
will need to reverse matters, and make the 
bed first, and then sink the frame in the soil 
to such a depth as will ensure the depth men¬ 
tioned between the glass and soil. The seed 
had better be sown in drills I foot apart, 
placing the seeds in a double row in each 
drill 6 inches apart in triangular fashion. If 
you sow more thickly than tTiis you will have 
to thin out the plants afterwards, because if 
at all crowded they will become drawn, and 
the ultimate result prove disappointing. You 
may keep the frame quite close until the seeds 
germinate, and the plants appear above 
ground, when they should be well aired, as 
you suggest, to ensure a sturdy growth, but 
until after May is out you would do well to 
put the sashes over them, and on cold nights 
cover with mats also. It will also be neces¬ 
sary to 6ee that the soil about the roots is 
kept in a properly moist condition by afford¬ 
ing water with the chill just taken off when¬ 
ever required, and if the weather be wet when 
the plants come iuto flower, put the sashes 
on, and tilt them at the back and front to 
allow of a free passage of air to aid the set¬ 
ting. To enable the plants to continue in 
bearing for as long as possible, gather all pods 
as soon as ready for use, and if not required 
they will keep for several days if tied in 
bunches, and the stalk ends immersed in a 
saucer filled with water. A sprinkling over¬ 
head in mild weather will prove beneficial 
when the plants are in full bearing, and which 
will also keep red-spider at bay. If the com¬ 
post is good no stimulant will be needed. You 
had better add a little well-rotted manure and 
leaf soil to the loam you intend using, espe¬ 
cially if it is of a retentive nature. Suitable 
varieties for frame culture are Plentiful, 
Dwarf Sugar Bean (both of which are string¬ 
less and of first-rate quality). Ne Plus Ultra 
is a fine cropper, and rather taller than 
either of the preceding. Evergreen is another 
excellent kind. We could go on adding to 
the list, but we think you will find all you re¬ 
quire in any one of those mentioned.] 

Pits and frames. —If there are any of 
these to spare, which is not likely, they may 
have enough fermenting materials placed 
under to create a little warmth, and then be 
filled with Cucumbers, French Beans, or 
Melons. We have grown green Ginger for pre¬ 
serving in the pits after the bedding plants 
could be turned out, and they are also useful 
for growing on young Ferns, etc. 

Potato Early Rose There are ' ery few Potatoes 
that have kept their popularity like this old, well- 
known variety, for, in spite of the many new kinds 
that were boomed so much a year or two ago, there 
is not one that sells so readily or that gives such 
general satisfaction as this does. As a rule, the 
gardens in this suburban district are small, and gener¬ 
ally surrounded with walls or fences, and this causes 
many strong-growing sorts of Potatoes to make so 
much top-growth that they fail to tuber freely. 
Early Rose makes only medium top-growth, and yields 
well - J. G , Gosport. : 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



-Aj-hil. 27, 1907 


GARDENING ILL URL RAT ED. 


109 



PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

OUTDOOR PLANTS. 

PERENNIAL CORNFLOWER OR KNAP- 
WEED (CENTAUREA). 

Thlb best known forms of the Perennial Corn¬ 
flower are of quite easy cultivation in common 
garden soil, particularly those belonging to 
the mountain Cornflower (C. montana), which 
soon form large spreading tufts iu the border. 
In some respects forms of 


plant, far too large and coarse growing for 
the ordinary border, and better suited to 
isolated positions, where ample room exists. 
Growing from 4 feet to 5 feet high, and as 
much in diameter, well-grown examples arc 
effective when the huge golden heads of blos¬ 
soms are at their best. Flowering period, 
July. , 

C. dealbata. —A dwarf-growing Caucasian 
species, height 11 feet. The foliage is of a 
somewhat silvery hue, and the flower-heads of 
a rose colour. Juue. 

C. babyloniCA. —A picturesque and stately 
plant of erect habit and of easy culture. 


Btraw-yellow colour. The species is of rather 
slow growth, and resents frequent removal. 
Flowering period, August and later. 

Hampton Hill . E. II. Jenkins. 


OUTDOOR VIOLETS. 

The winter has not been an ideal one for 
outdoor Violets, the frost and cold winds 
checking leaf and flower growth. Their hardy 
nature, however, stood by them even under 
the stress of this severe weather, for I ob¬ 
serve there are no fatalities to record, nor 
broken lines observable due to injury or death. 
The introduction of the larger, or 
giant type, of Violpt, Princess of 
Wales, gave rise to 6onn' misgivings 
as to their hardy nature, many re¬ 
taining the old favourite, Czar, for a 
few years. However, no more proof 
is needed now of the c<nstituion not 
of Princess of Wales ouly, but others 
also, notably La France, Luxonne, 
and Princess Beatrice. 

The planting of runners this spring 
has been deferred rather longer than 
usual, due to the continued dry and 
sunny weather, for it is well known 
that soil moisture is a great essential 
in the re-establiehment of new Violet 
colonies outside, and a moist season, 
which often characterises the month 
of April, is what the plants need. Not 
only was the late planting due to the 
almost tropical weather, but the plants 
flowered late. Short flower stems 
have been a marked disadvantage in 
the outdoor Violet crop of 1907, which, 
compared with the frame and indoor 
stocks, considerably lessens the value 
of the blooms. The sweetness, how¬ 
ever, remains, ns well as does the rich 
colour of the flower. The finest of 
these giant Violets I have seen wero 
grown in pots in otherwise unoccupied 
vineries, these standing on the floors 
or stages. The blooms were indi¬ 
vidually large, the flower stems 
measuring quite 10 inches in length. 
In ordinary greenhouses Violets are 
not usually a success. Coddling or 
crowding is fatal to Violets, which 
need, and must have, abundance of 
fresh air, in order to produce healthy 
leafage and good blossoms. On a 
good pot plant 1 have counted over 
three dozen open flowers, and in this 
state it must be admitted they aro 
objects of admiration and profit. Only 
sufficient fire-heat to keep out frost is 
necessary. These pot-grown plants 
were far more productive than those 
accommodated in frames. To secure 
success in winter Violet growing an 
effort must be made from the present 
onward through the summer to keep 
the foliage healthy and build up good 
crowns, as unless these are assured it 
is idle to hope for good flowers in 
winter or spring. The treatment of 
the runners differs according to the 
custom of the grower, but at this 
season there is usually a sufficiency of 
rooted runners to meet current de¬ 
mands. If the old crown is lifted, all 
side growths removed, and roots 
shortened, it can bo made to do duty 
again, but this course is only neces¬ 
sary and advised when young rooted 


The white Mountain Knapweed ((Jentaurea montana alba) 


C. MONTANA are not quite good enough for j 
the select liardy plant border, but iu the I 
rougher parts of*the garden, as— e.g. f the 
shrubbery and such like places—they aro of 
service. Of tliis type there are many varie¬ 
ties, the typical kind having blue flower heads, 
with alba, white; rubra, red; sulphurea, 

sulphur coloured, and others. Of these the 
most ornamental are C. montana alba (see 
illustration) and C. m. rubra, which is largely I 
grown by the market men. Not only are the 
plants easily raised from seed, but estab¬ 
lished examples may be increased freely by 
division. All the C. montana section flowers 
in June] or thereabout^* 

c. 1 




From a photograph by Mr. Jas. E. Tyler, Halstead, Essex* stock is short. 

It must be said that the Violet is ex- 


The finely cut foliage is large and handsome 
and of a silvery hue, the Thistle-like heads of 
golden-yellow flowers in axillary clusters on 
the stem rendering it a conspicuous object 
when in bloom. July to September ; height, 
G feet. 

C. olabtifolia.— A good species, from the 
Caucasus. The plant produces from July to 
September a large array of its Thistle-like 
heads of yellow flowers. Height, 4 feet, or 
more. 

C. RUTHENICA, a Russian species, with 
smooth, shining green, pinnate leaves, is an 
elegant plant of 3 feet to 4 feet high when 
fully grown, producing flower-heads of a 


tremely accommodating, for it will grow 
and flourish iu all sorts of places and aspects, 
though not always with the same degree of sue- 
cess and productiveness. Violets must, liko 
every other cultivated plant, receive the very 
best treatment if the highest standard of 
quality is desired. Thus an open site, well, 
manured, and thoroughly pulverised soil, 
strong, healthy runners, freedom from weeds, 
and in the case of light porous soils a mulching 
of short manure, fresh or decayed, to conserve 
moisture, are necessary. Violets are often 
planted at the foot of a fruit wall, and the 
practice often assures a gathering of fresh 
flowers when plants in the open are bare, for 
shelter and warmth in winter certainly tell 
favourably on any outdoor crop. The site 

^-CHAMPAIGN 










110 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


April 27 , 1907 


under the wall or sheltering hedge should be 
changod from year to year, because the plants 
would so impoverish the soil that they would 
become weakened. If such a border must 
needs be chosen substitute fresh soil, and do 
not forget to dig in a little decayed manure, 
for this the Violet needs and appreciates. 
During summer all runners should be re¬ 
moved by hand to strengthen the crowns. 
In the late autumn the runners may be left 
for Btock, and also for affording a succession 
of bloom. Some propagate their stock from 
cuttings inserted in autumn in a cool frame, 
and this practice, no doubt, ensures a fine 
planting stock for spring. Many readers of 
Gardening Illustrated will not have the 
necessary spare frame, and thus recourse is 
had to the self-layered runner, which can be 
lifted from the beds in spring. Planting 
ought to be finished in April, so that the 
runners have a chance of becoming estab¬ 
lished before they are overtaken by tropical 
weather. Watering must be attended to if 
the state of the weather demands it. Violets 
I find are very partial to leaf-mould in the 
soil. Wilts. 

[With the above notes we received a very 
beautiful gathering of single Violets, in- 
eluding Princess of Wales, Luxonne, and La 
France. The blooms were very large, with 
fine, long footstalks, the foliage also good, 
showing that the culture given is in every 
way suitable.— Ed.] 


IIARDY FLOWER NOTES. 
Saxifraga Burseriana. — This charming 
species comes into bloom in March, just when 
there is so little in the way of floral display 
in the outdoor garden. With me it was in 
full flower in the second week in March. Like 
all other members of the family, it i6 perfectly 
hardy, but in the case of well-developed 
specimens that are capable of bearing a dozen 
spikes of bloom, it is as well to arrange for 
some w ay of protection against excess of mois¬ 
ture. .Heavy rains will seriously tarnish the 
purity of the blooms, and in a single night 
much harm may be done. A pane of glass 
will suffice to - ensure the duration of the 
blooms in perfection. This can be taken away 
in fine weather, so that the plants are not 
made tender. Such a delicately beautiful 
hardy flower, which imparts beauty to the 
rock garden at such an early period of the 
year, is quite as well worthy of care ns many 
things that require the protection of a glass 
roof, and a considerable amount of labour to 
bring them into bloom 

Narcissus nanus.— I have at the present 
time various forms of this delightful little 
Daffodil, which are evidently hybrids between 
it and obvallarie. They have sprung up here 
and there in the border where their parents 
have been growing many years, and vary con¬ 
siderably in size, form, and colour. They 
are extremely pretty, and on account of their 
early blooming character very valuable, their 
time of flowering being between that of the 
two parents. In some places obvallaris is 
very uncertain, dying off in the course of a 
season or two, but where it succeeds I would 
advise planting it with nanus, as both being 
free seeders hybrid forms are sure to appear 
in the course of time. 

Chionodoxas. —The Snow Glory is one of 
the most useful spring flowers we have. It 
flourishes exceedingly in any common garden 
soil, and is one of the easiest of bulbous flow’ers 
to establish in the woodland or wild garden. 
It increases rapidly, and seeds so freely that 
a dozen bulbs will in the course of several 
years form a large colony. New colonies are 
easily made by sowing the seeds when ripe in 
ground that has been well sweetened. Most 
of them will corno up, and will only need to 
lie kept free from weeds for a couple of years, 
after which time they will take care of them¬ 
selves. In the wild garden an easy way is to 
clear a bit of ground, and sow in the manner 
above mentioned. When the bulbs come to 
full size they will hold their own among Grass. 
C. eardensis, which is deeper in colour than 
Lucilioe, does well in the Grass, and the same 
may be said of gigantea, which is very effec¬ 
tive. /■ > 

Anteehicum tiujQcii. Ail|l(otigh the 


flowers of this species are considerably smaller 
than those of its relatives Liliastrum and Li- 
liago, they are produced so plentifully as to 
render it very attractive. As the specific 
name indicates, it has the inflorescence ar¬ 
ranged in a plume-like mass. In the matter 
of soil it is easily pleased, thriving in any 
ordinary ground that has been well stirred. 
It is one of the best things for cutting that I 
am acquainted with, but, like many other 
hardy flowers, is not seen at its best until it 
has been established a couple of years. 

Tunica Saxifraga.—I am surprised that 
this has not become more popular. It has the 
characteristics of the Gypsophila, with a very- 
dwarf compact habit, which renders it suit¬ 
able for many forms of decoration. Grown in 
pots, it would be just the thing for edging 
groups of flowering and fine-foliaged plants 
where arranged for exhibition. I should also 
imagine that it would find a ready sale in the 
London markets. It is quite as good as many 
things that cost a lot to grow. 

J. Cornhill. 


CACTUS DAHLIAS. 

Whilst raisers have produced of these, varie¬ 
ties of flowers so wonderfully formed and 
of such beautiful colours and markings as to 
surprise themselves, yet, unfortunately, most 
of these plants prove of little value for garden 
decoration. Dahlias may be popular as exhi¬ 
bition flowers, but for one person who grows 
them for such purpose, probably fifty grow 
them for garden decoration, hence when they 
obtain new Cactus varieties which have such 
high reputations, and grow them, disappoint¬ 
ment as to garden beauty commonly results. 
It is, however, some satisfaction to learn that 
at length raisers are becoming alive to this 
aspect of Dahlia culture. One well-known 
raiser recently said that he had throw'n away 
numerous Cactus Dahlia seedlings that were 
excellent for garden decoration, but of no use 
for exhibition. That fact shows that when 
exhibition ideals dominate, the garden comes 
badly off. As an outcome of this realisation 
of Cactus Dahlia defects, the National Dahlia 
Society proposed to the Royal Horticultural 
Society that a trial of varieties put into com¬ 
merce during the past three years be con¬ 
ducted at Wisley during the present year, ex¬ 
pressly to ascertain their value for the 
garden. Such trial should have the excellent 
result of bringing into commerce some varie¬ 
ties that are as free-flowering and of ns good 
habit as are the free-blooming, but still very 
formal, Pompon forms. The making of awards 
to these plants will be in the hands of a joint 
committee of six from the National Dahlia 
Society and six from the R.H.S. Floral Com¬ 
mittee. 

It was thought necessary to limit the range 
of varieties for trial to the newer ones, as so 
many older ones have been tested in the past 
with by no means satisfactory results. 

The primary needs of Cactus Dahlias for 
arden purposes are material reduction in 
eight, flowers well borne above the foliage, 
on long, stiff stems, colours bright, and such 
as shall harmonise with other hues found in 
flowers generally. Some Dahlia colours are 
not beautiful, and these may well be dis¬ 
pensed with. Cactus Dali lists as found at 
present make too much growth. Florists who 
grow for exhibition not only have to largely 
thin the branches but also to disbud to check 
too free floral development. No one who 
grows these plants purely for garden decora¬ 
tion wants to be so troubled. So much 
manipulation rids flower gardening of much 
of its natural charm. 

Whilst amateur growers of exhibition 
flowers will no doubt be ordering plants of 
newer production, those who want Cactus 
forms for mere garden decoration may do well 
to wait until the results of the Wisley trial 
are made public. There, whilst the soil is 
sand}-, it is deeply worked and well manured, 
hence plants secure high-class culture. So 
much all Dahlias need to enable them to do 
well. Still, it will be satisfactory to both 
ramer and public to know that whatever may 
be the outcome of the trial, all the plants 
have had a good test, and as they do at 
Wisley so may they be expected to do else¬ 
where. r A. D. 


WALLFLOWERS AND THE FROST. 

In many gardens Wallflowers have suffered 
severely from the cold winds and frost, and I 
do not remember to have seen so much 
damage as I noticed at the end of March at 
Haekwood Park, Basingstoke. The flower 
garden there is in an exposed position, and in 
many beds at least half of the plants were 
dead. I observed the same thing in several 
gardens in Surrey and Hampshire. In this 
western district they have suffered in many 
cases, and plants in the west often suffer 
more than people more inland fancy. I be¬ 
lieve the treatment Wallflowers receive in 
their early stages has much to do with their 
hardiness. When at Reading at the close of 
March I examined some plants in the most ex¬ 
posed portion of Messrs. Sutton and Sons’ 
trial grounds, and there was scarcely a blank, 
all the plants being in a vigorous condition. 
These were dwarf, and showing an abun¬ 
dance of bloom. Undoubtedly they had been 
sow r n fund grown on in this exposed position. 
I observed many other things far more vigor¬ 
ous than in our garden 100 miles further west, 
and within twelve miles of the sea. I could 
not help noticing how much dwarfer and more 
woody these appeared than in our garden. 
Recently, Mr. Lyon, from Cricket St. 'I nomas, 
told me Wallflowers had not suffered in the 
least with him this year, a quite unusual 
thing. He had striven to keep them hardy 
and dwarf in their early stages before placing 
them in the beds in flower garden, which is 
very much exposed. 

In our own garden the plants that were 
pricked out on good rich soil in the autumn 
suffered from mildew, the foliage being so 
soft, while the small plants that remained in 
the seed bed have not suffered in the least, 
proving that it is not- all gain to obtain large 
plants by autumn. It is also worthy of note 
that seldom do plants growing on walls suffer 
from frost. This was brought forcibly to my 
notice recently in our village, where the walls 
are wide, being built, of rough stone. Nothing 
can be more beautiful than these when the 
Wallflowers are in bloom, with frequently a 
carpet of Aubrietia. These receive no water 
except that from the clouds. However dry 
the weather may bo these do not appear to 
suffer, and seldom can one see a dead plant. 

Now the time is coming to sow Wallflowers 
for another year, it. may be worth suggesting 
to many the advisability of sowing early on 
poor, hard ground. Another thing that has 
come under my notice is that these dwarf 
strains are not so early blooming as the taller 
kinds. I have often noticed what a fine strain 
many of the market growers have, and the 
length of time they have them in bloom. 
Some of the very long-spiked kinds with very 
crimson flowers appear to suffer more from 
cold. Eastern Queen is of a beautiful colour 
if it could be had quite true. Dorset. 


Grouping Tufted Pansies. — In large 
masses of one colour. Tufted Pansies always 
look well. I have seen them in a large ter¬ 
race garden, along with other hardy plants, 
treated in this fashion, and it is difficult to 
conceive a more delightful effect. The group¬ 
ing in masses differs according to circum¬ 
stances. In a very large border anything be¬ 
tween twenty-five and fifty plants are often 
planted in colonics, and striking effects are 
got in this way. On the other hand, a garden 
or border of smaller dimensions will need 
fewer plants to produce alike result. Half-a- 
dozen to a dozen plants will answer very well 
in such circumstances, and readers of Gar¬ 
dening Illustrated whose gardens come 
within this category would be well advised to 
adopt this method of planting. Again, it may 
be possible in some gardens to plant some of 
the smaller beds and borders entirely with 
the Tufted Pansies, and very charming arc 
such displays. Tufted Pansies are often 
planted as a groundwork for Roses. The 
choice of colours in such cases must, ot 
course, be carefully considered. Self- 
coloured sorts are always the more effective, 
and the rayless varieties are more refined and 
beautiful than the older rayed or pencilled 
flowers. There are many intermediate tones 
of colour now available. It is not necessary, 
in these times, to confine one’s self to yellow, 




April 27, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Ill 


white, blue, and purple colours, as varieties 
with primrose, cream, lilac, lavender, and 
other shades are now freely catalogued in all 
up-to-date collections. Margined and heavily 
bordered varieties there are in abundance, 
and many of them are very beautiful, but for 
effect they will not compare with the self- 
coloured flowers. They may sometimes be 
planted in a group, but should be between 
masses of the self-coloured kinds. The 
Violettas, or miniature-flowered Tufted Pan¬ 
sies. are quite distinct, and should be planted 
in the rock garden.—D. B. Crane. 


RHODODENDRON WALK AT KEW. 
One sees article after article by new writers 
on gardening which contain uot the slightest 
reference to the fact that the garden is made 
for flowers, and that a country place without 
planting would be a desert. They do not 
even take the trouble to find out the good ex- 


I Violets, Carnations, and Roses, can be grown 
I in the country you refer to. Also a great 
j many things can be grown well which would 
| not do in England. Local opportunities are 
I a much better guide, and a visit to a few gar- 
I dens in the region would tell you best.] 

Wall plants. —It does not fall to the lot of 
everyone to have garden walls constructed in ; 

' a rough fashion with pieces of stone and 
, slate. You find such in Yorkshire, West- I 
I moreland, Derbyshire, and parts of Suffolk ; ' 

' walls put together with a lining of mortar 
j now and agaiu, and sometimes held together | 
with clods of turf, in which plant-growing is | 
! easy. Where walls like these exist one may 
do a great deal towards making a garden 
very gay, as at many periods of the year they I 
I may be veritable sheets of bloom. Few ! 

plants do more in this direction than the 
I Aubrietias, and little bits of roots stuck into | 
the ledges, wherever it is possible for soil to 


roses. These were then in fine condition, 
having been planted the season previously. 
When I was there at the close of March I 
went to see them, but to my astonishment I 
found on several plants hardly a double flower 
could be found. On two or three plants all 
the blooms were mostly single, with occasion¬ 
ally a bloom partly double. I was told the 
plants had not been replanted during this 
time. The plants were full of flower, but 
naturally small. The position was somewhat 
shaded, this being all in their favour. Thus 
it. appears doubling in many things depends 
much on culture. Everyone who has had 
much experience knows the tendency to re¬ 
version in many plants, and I have a good 
illustration of this with Wilson’s strain of 
blue Primroses.—J. Crook. 

Raising Cypsophila paniculata from 
seed. —Owing to the long, fleshy roots of 
this Gypsopliila, it is not one of the easiest 



Part ot Lh'j Rhododendron walk in the ltoyal Gardens, Kcw. From a photograph by Mr. W. J. Vasey, Abingdon. 


ninplcs of planting within easy reach of 
London, and of which the Rhododendron 
Walk at Kew is one. It is one of those places 
where one may well compare the effect of 
picturesque planting and natural planting in 
the best sense, with the stiff lines and 
mechanical regularity of the sort of gardening 
and planting which the architectural school 
of gardeners deplores the loss of. This is 
one of the many good examples in Britain of 
good landscape planting, the one in which the 
tree, takes its natural form, and every bush 
also, and in which wo get light, shadow, and 
freedom, and everything that satisfies the 
mind. 


NOTES AND BE PLIES. 

Perennials to grow at Hyeres —Kindly name 
a dozen perennials which I could plant in a garden 
at Ilyferes, 8outh of France, to bloom between Octo¬ 
ber and June? The climatfiJs sunny and v*ry dry in 
Bummer.—M. B. f I y-y 

[SomW of the pljNsJIuch as 


lodg", soon take hold. Then there are the 
Saxifrages. We often hear Wallflowers 
spoken of, mostly in relation to flower gar¬ 
den arrangements, and not as to their value 
as wall-plants, but I know a garden where 
an old wall built with stone from a neigh¬ 
bouring quarry is full of these old-time 
flowers. Again, there are Antirrhinums, 
equally beautiful and just as simple in their 
requirements ; indeed, I do not know whether 
of the two the Snapdragon will not stand the 
dryness of a wall the better. One remem¬ 
bers, too. the beauty of the Arabis. Quite 
near to where I write is a carriage-drive, on 
either side of which an old stone wail is now 
white with Arabis. Other things, like 
Stoneerops. Pansies, Houseleeks, Thrifts, and 
Iberises suggest themselves.— Leahurst. 

Reversion in double Primroses.— Some 
three or four years ago Mr. Bowerman, at 
Hackwood Park, showed me a fine batch of 
both double and single lilac-cojoured Prim- 


subjects to move, and 1 have known instances 
where in attempting to remove old plants 
much damage has been done owing to the 
roohs breaking. This difficulty may he over¬ 
come by simply sowing seed in the open 
ground. A few years ago 1 procured a small 
packet of seed, sowed it thinly on a sunny 
border, and, when large enough, planted 
some dozen or more of the young seedlings 
out into a bed of well-prepared soil, into 
which manure had been worked. The fol¬ 
lowing year they all gave a little bloom, and 
since then have never failed to afford large 
bushes of white blossoms, which are most 
useful as adjuncts to vases of other flowers. 
It. is a plant that does not. care for frequent 
removal, and. except for a little mulching 
now and again, requires hardly any atten¬ 
tion. Quite early in the spring the new 
shoots should be tied to a stake, otherwise 
they are apt to be broken by the wind. Now is 
the time to sow if flowers are wanted another 
year.— Woodbastwick, 









112 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Ai-iul 27, 1907 


INDOOR PLANTS. 


CYETANTHI IN FLOWER. 


The genus Cyrtanthus is a fairly extensive 
one, but in geographical distribution it is con¬ 
fined to the southern portion of Africa. 
While Cyrtanthus obliquus has bulbs as large 
as a fair-sized Swede Turnip, most of the 
others are of quite a different character. In 
their case, the bulbs are not much larger 
than those of a Snowdrop, while the dark 
green Grass-like leaves are each a foot or a 
little more in length, and from a quarter to 
one third of an inch wide. The flower-spikes, 
which reach a height of 12 inches to 18 inches, 
well overtop the foliage, and are terminated 
by a cluster of flowers rarely exceeding nine 
in number. The individual flowers are tubu¬ 
lar, somewhat curved, about 1£ inch long, and 
half an inch across the expanded mouth, 
though these features vary somewhat in the 
different species. These Cyrtanthi have long 
been favourites of mine, and 1 have just now 
an extremely pretty and interesting batch of 
seedlings in flower. They are the result of 
crossing and intercrossing from distinct 
species- viz., C. angustifolius, orange-scar¬ 
let ; C. luteecens, yellow ; C. Mackeni, white ; 
and C. Macowani, deep scarlet. In the flowers 
of these seedlings there is a wide range of 
colour and markings ; some very pretty forms 
have the lobes of the flower buff-yellow, with 
a clearly-defined edging of light red. Rich 
coloured flowers, too, are very noticeable, 
and, from the strides already made, I am in 
hopes of obtaining in another generation or 
two a clear pink-coloured flower. A pleasing 
lemon-tinted blossom, most probably the re 
suit of crossing C. Mackeni and C. lutescens, 
affords a pleasing foil to the brighter tints. 
In these seedlings the variability is not con¬ 
fined to the colour of the flower, as a few 
have the lobes particularly rounded, and one 
especially is much wider across the mouth 
than any of the others. 

The seedlings in question, which are so full 
of interest and beauty just now, are at lec.st, 
most of them the result of crosses effected 
two years ago, when the plants were in flower, 
though a few arc a year older. The seed, 
which ripened about June, was sown as soon 
as ripe in well drained pans filled with a mix¬ 
ture of loam, leaf-mould, and sand. The 
young plants came up like Grass in a few 
weeks, and were, as soon ns sufficiently ad¬ 
vanced. pricked off into other pans, using the 
same kind of compost. They were stood in 
a light part of the greenhouse, but shaded 
from the full rays of the sun. Throughout 
the winter enough water was given to keep 
the soil moderately moist, the plants being 
kept in an ordinary greenhouse with Pelar¬ 
goniums, Fuchsias, etc.; in fact, they have 
been in this structure during the whole of 
their life. In the spring —that is to say, a 
year ago—the plants were potted singly into 
thumbs, using a compost made up of two 
parts loam to one part each of leaf-mould and 
sand. They were given a moderate amount 
of shade, and, under such conditions, grew 
away in a very satisfactory manner. By the 
end of June they were ready to be shifted 
into pots 4 inches in diameter, in which pots 
they are now flowering freely. When once 
thoroughly established in their new pots— 
that is to say. from August, onwards—they 
were fully exposed to the sun. While they 
do not need much water during the winter, I 
find it is better not to allow them lo become 
dust-dry even at. that, season. Seme kinds 
retain nearly the whole of their leaves 
throughout, the winter months, while others 
become almost deciduous. Early in the new 
year, however, these last pusli up new leaves, 
often simultaneously with the flower spikes. 

To the amateur with but a single green¬ 
house, and yet desirous of growing some 
pretty class of plants outside of the common 


run. F can confidently recommend these small 
growing kinds of Cyrtanthus. The hybridis¬ 
ing, too, is a very simple matter, and one has 
not to wait so long for the fruit of one’s 
labour as is necessary in the case of many 
other bulbous plants. The flowering season 
is not limited to this particular period of the 
year, for though the greatest amount pf blos¬ 


soms is borne in earlv 


' greatest amount of 
v/pnngrJhe p^ajils 


j^ften 


bloom more or lees throughout the summer. 
A South African bulb, formerly grown under 
the name of Gastronema sangumea, is now by 
botanists included in the genus Cyrtanthus, 
but I have never been able to intercross it 
with the other kinds. In general appearance 
it somewhat resembles a small Vallota, and 
hybrids between it and Vallota purpurea have 
been obtained. X. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Hippeastrum (Amaryllis) equestre —Would 
you Kindly inform me at. what time of the year 
Amaryllis cquostris ought to bloom, grown in a cool 
greenhouse? Mine often blooms twice in the year, 
though not. satisfactorily, the flower-stems very often 
cracking, which causes the bloom stein to come up 
bent, instead of upright., and sometimes the stem 
comes up extra large, but contracts very much imme¬ 
diately under the flower-buds, which, in consequence, 
do not develop as they ought. Is it advisable to take 
off the off-sets and repot every year?—M. S. H. 

[Hippeastrum (Amaryllis) equestro, known 
also as the Barbadoes Lily, is a native of the 
West Indies, and requires an intermediate 
temperature, or even the coolest part of the 
stove, for its development. Such being the 
case, we are of opinion that the reason of the 
flower-stems behaving in such an erratic 
manner is the lowness of the temperature, as 
in a cool greenhouse one can hardly expect a 
native of the tropics to thrive and flower well. 
Under favourable conditions this Amaryllis 
flowers in late spring and early summer. The 
offsets need not be removed, neither is it 
necessary to repot every year. This last item 
will, however, depend upon the condition of 
the roots, as if they arc in at all an unhealthy 
state the bulbs should be shaken clear of the 
old soil, and repotted in February.] 

Notes on shrubs In pots. —During the 
early months of the year many hardy shrubs 
are useful for blooming under glass, and, 
when established in pots, may be brought into 
flower with little trouble. Among these 
Staphylea colehica holds a foremost place, 
its long racemes of white flowers being very 
attractive. 1 have two strong plants in pots 
grown thus, hut I cannot induce them to 
bloom so freely as 1 should like 1 . When 
visiting spring shows in London at the Ii.H.S. 
I huve been attracted by the way some trade 
firms bloom it. Last year I noticed some 
plants a mass of flower. It would be in¬ 
structive to learn the treatment these plants 
receive. My plants grow freely enough, but 
bloom only sparsely. I remember seeing 
this full of bloom in 12 inch pots at Wilton 
House, near Salisbury. These had no strong 
shoots on them. I tried pinching the growths 
last summer, and this lias improved them 
this year. Spiraea confusa is a splendid 
kind for growing in pots, and, treated thus, 
it comes into flower with great ease. Nothing 
can be more free blooming, every little twig 
being covered with the small white flowers. 
This may be had in small or large plants, 
and for mixing with other furnishing plants 
in spring it is excellent. The Chinese Plum 
(Prunus sinensis) deserves to be grown by 
everyone who needs hardy shrubs in pots for 
its pure white ball-like flowers, which are 
borne all along the slender slioots. It may 
be had very early in bloom with but little 
forcing, remaining a long time in flower. 
Some years ago, when in North Hants, thiB 
was a great success, both in pots and in the 
open border.—J. C. F. 

Overfeeding plants. -A great, mistake in 
plant-growing made by many is to give an ex¬ 
cess of stimulating manures. This becomes 
year by year an easier matter, for nowadays 
highly concentrated chemical manures of 
various kinds are sold, many of which profess 
to w f ork wonders with the plants to which they 
are applied. This is to a certain extent true 
—that is, when the main object of the culti¬ 
vator is to build up a gross plant, probably 
with huge blossoms, the specimen itself to 
be once flowered and then thrown away. 
Woo, however, betide the luckless individual 
who has the responsibility of keeping this 
plant in good condition for another season’s 
flowering, as the excessive use of stimulants 
has so weakened its constitution that it will 
often barely survive. That the cuttings of 
Chrysanthemums fed up for the production of 
huge blossoms are almost useless for propa¬ 
gation is now a recognised fact, but it i6 not 


so generally known that this applies with 
equal force to all kinds of plants. Again, 
many give manures without considering the 
state of the plant or the season of the year, 
and, of course, in most cases failure is the re¬ 
sult. Manures of a stimulating nature should 
be given only when the pots are well-fur¬ 
nished with roots, and the plant is in a grow¬ 
ing state. The safest stimulant Is manure- 
water, made from sheep or cow dung, or a 
mixture of this aud soot water.—X. 

Erica Wilmoreana. —Splendid examples of 
this greenhouse Heath may be met with in 
Covent Garden and in the florists’ shops of 
London, for it is grown in considerable 
numbers by some of our best cultivators. It 
is only those who make a specialty of Heath 
culture that can turn out such model plants 
as are often seen in pots 5 inches in diameter. 
For this reason, instead of attempting the 
culture of greenhouse Heaths, many pur¬ 
chase them from the wholesale growers just 
as the flowers are on the point of expanding. 
For a display under glass we depend in the 
depth of winter principally upon the winter 
Heath (Erica hyemalis) and its pure-whito 
variety, alba. The typical form has flowers 
coloured rose and white. This is now past, 
and its place is taken by E. Wilmoreana, 
which differs from E. hyemalis in being of a 
more robust and spreading style of growth, 
while the flowers are somewhat longer in the 
tube and brighter in colour. Although these 
two are among the most popular of all green¬ 
house Heaths the origin of both is, I believe, 
unknown. Another pretty Heath now much 
in evidence in Covent Garden is E. persoluta 
alba, a free growing, much-branched littlo 
shrub, whose very slender shoots are clothed 
with tiny leaves and plentifully studded with 
small, even shaped blossoms of the purest 
white. The flowers of this Heath remain 
fre6h a considerable time, on which account, 
combined with it.s light and elegant appear¬ 
ance, it is much used for cutting. X. 

Forcing plants into bloom. At this 
period of the year, when flowers are scarce, 
both professional and amateur gardeners 
are trying to increase their supply of flowers 
both for indoor decoration in pots as well as 
for cutting, and bulbs, roots, aud all early- 
flowering shrubs are placed in warm-houses 
with the hope of an abundant supply. After 
many years’ trial, I can safely say that the ono 
thing that decides the success or failure of 
the work is the way the plants arc treated at 
the root.. Anyone who has had any experi¬ 
ence of forcing ordinary Dutch bulbs, such as 
Hyacinths, Narcissi, or Tulips, will not need 
to be told that it is useless putting the pots 
into a high temperature until they are well 
filled with roots, and this can only be done 
by potting early and covering the pots out-of- 
doors with some such material ns Cocoa-fibre 
or ashes, and then when the pots are full of 
roots, and the tops pushing up the covering, 
you may safely remove them into gentle heat 
with every prospect of success. It ks the 
same with the many kinds of early flowering 
dwarf shrubs that are annually forced into 
bloom. Take the showy Azalea mollis, which, 
being grown in peat., lifts with a good ball of 
roote. When this comes into bloom, anyone 
can tell at a glance the plants that have been 
lifted and the ones that have been grown in 
pots for a year before forcing. Again, take 
the popular Deutzia gracilis, and you will 
find that although the lifted plants have far 
the stronger shoots, and look, when in bud, 
a« if they would make the better plants, it is 
quite different when the sun’s rays get power¬ 
ful. for then the plants that are well estab¬ 
lished in pots go on improving, and do not 
flag or fail to expand their blooms.—J. G., 
Gosport. 

Selaginella Emiliana -This beautiful variety 
lias lately become very popular for indoor decora- 
lion in small thumb-pots, nnd seems likely to take 
• he plane of the many varieties of Ptcria or Ribbon 
Ferns that have so long been used on the dinner- 
tables for tilling little vases, etc. This Selaginella 
forms such pretty little plants that one cannot fail 
to like it. It appears to stand the somewhat trying 
ordeal to which these plants are put through changes 
of temperature.—J. G. 


Index to Volume XXVIII.— The binding covers 
(price Is. 6d. each, post free, Is. Od.) and Index (.Id., 
post free, 3]d.) for Volume XXV11I. are now ready, 
and may be had of all newsagent?, or of the Pub¬ 
lisher, ipopOree, 2s. for the tmj_ 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



Armii 27, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


113 


ORCHID8. 

CALANTHE IGNEO OCULATA 
GIGANTEA. 

The illustration represents one of the few 
known species of the deciduous section of | 
L'alanthes, a species which should prove of 
great value to the hybridist in the acquisition 
of new and beautiful plants. A few plants 
nere sent to Burford Lodge in 1U04 by M. 


belong to this section of Calanthe, produce 
strong spikes of bloom, which, when fully de¬ 
veloped, have a fine arching effect, and are ex¬ 
tremely useful for almost any kind of house or 
table decoration. The sepals and petals are 
pure white, the centre being of a dark red- 
orange colour. Neither this, nor its closely 
allied species, C. rubro-oculata gigantea, a 
variety which was exhibited about thirty 
years ago, lose their roots to such an extent 
as their congeners, therefore, when repotting 



Calanthe igneo oculata gigantea. From a photograph in Sir Trevor Lawrence’s garden at 
Burford Lodge, Dorking. 


Tauwels, of Heirelbeke, Ghent. They have 
proved to be good growers, producing large 
handsome spikes of bloom during February 
and March, and are. therefore, especially 
valuable for prolonging the Calanthe season. 
They are more serviceable to amateurs who 
live in, or close to, large towns than those 
C'alanthes that bloom in early winter, as at 
this period they escape the dense fogs which 
are so prevalent at mid-winter, and which 
oftentimes injure the flowers to such an ex¬ 
tent as to render them useless. The species 
aud the numerous beautJ’uT^iy-hrids wh"' 

Digitized b', vjOOQ 


the plants care should be taken to preserve 
them as far as possible. 

Very soon after the spikes are cut the 
plants begin to start iuto growth, and when 
the shoots are a few inches in length, or pre¬ 
vious to their pushing out new roots, the 
plants should be repotted into a compost con¬ 
sisting of one-half good fibrous loam, one- 
fourth well-dried cow-manure, or well-decayed 
leaf soil, and one-fourth finely-chopped 
Sphagnum Moss, adding some small crocks, 
and a little coarse silver-sand. Where it is 
difficult to procure suitable loam a little 


lumpy peat may be used with it to advantage. 
Well mix the materials together, allowing 
them to remain until the whole is fairly dry. 
When the pseudo-bulbs are potted singly, 
which is the usual practice, the pots should 
be of various sizes to suit the plants, but 
where accommodation is limited, or where a 
large quantity of cut bloom is required, four 
or five bulbs may be grown together in a suffi¬ 
ciently large pot for the extension or develop¬ 
ment of the new growths. The pots should be 
thoroughly clean, and they should be about 
half filled with broken crocks for drainage, 
over which place a thin layer of turfy loam, 
or some rough Sphagnum Moss. Pot the 
bulbs as you would any stove or greenhouse 
plant, leaving about £ inch of space from the 
rim of the pot. In time the soil will sink a 
little, and the extra room thus made on the 
surface will be useful when the plants are 
about half-way through the growing season 
for adding a top-dressing of fibrous loam, as 
at that time a number of young roots appear 
on the surface, and readily enter and appre¬ 
ciate the new compost. The critical time 
with all the deciduous Calanthes is after re¬ 
potting. First of all put the plants into what 
is generally known among Orchid-growers as 
the East indian or hottest house, standing 
them well up to the roof glass, where plenty 
of light may bo obtained. They should, how- 
ever, be carefully protected from strong, 
direct sunshine for two or three months after¬ 
wards, increasing the amount as the season 
advances. The ordinary plant stove, warm 
vinery, Melon, or Cucumber-house will also 
grow these plants to perfection. Afford no 
water for several weeks, merely damping be¬ 
tween the pots occasionally on warm, sunny 
days to create a nice growing atmosphere. 
When the growths are pushing up freely, and 
the leaves begin to unfold, the surface of the 
6oil may be lightly sprinkled whenever it ap¬ 
pears to be dry, and as the growth gets 
stronger, and are rooting freely, the amount 
of water may be gradually increased. If the 
soil in the pots is allowed to become very wet 
before the plants are re-established the tips 
of the young growths are very liable to be¬ 
come discoloured, and turn black, the leaves 
get spotted, and the strength of the 6hoots 
considerably impaired. When the - young 
growths show an indication of swelling at the 
base an abundance of water may be afforded 
alternately with weak liquid cow-manure, 
which will tend to promote strong healthy 
growth. As the new bulbs approach maturity, 
and the leaves begin to turn yellow, the 
amount of water must be gradually reduced, 
and the liquid-manure discontinued alto¬ 
gether. When the leaves have fallen, and 
the flower spikes appear, very little water is 
needed for their development, and when in 
bloom the plants should be arranged in a 
house where the temperature is about 60 degs. 
to 65 degs., and where it is possible to keep 
their surroundings somewhat drier than for 
the other occupants of the house. After the 
spikes are cut, water must be withheld en¬ 
tirely, and the plants put on a dry shelf close 
to the roof, in the warmest house. Here they 
will obtain the fullest sunlight, which will 
tend to ripen the pseudo-bulbs, so that when 
the growing season comes round they may 
start with increased vigour. 


Insects in house —I am sending you five live 
insects which infest the kitchen premises and one of 
the ground-floor bedrooms, near the kitchen chimney, 
of an old house I live in. They come out at night 
as soon as the rooms are dark—out from the chinks 
of stone, wood, or plaster near the range—and run 
over everything. I shall be much obliged If you can 
tell me what they are, and more especially of any 
cure for them?—N. J. 8. 

[The insects which you forwarded arc speci¬ 
mens of the “ silver-fish insect” or “ bristle- 
tail” (Lepisma saccharina). They feed chiefly 
on starchy substances, and have been feeding 
on the paste with which papers have been 
fastened to walls, injuring the binding of 
books in the same manner. I expect you 
could easily get rid of them by dusting insect 
powder into the cracks, etc., where they hide. 
Little bellows are sold for the purpose when 
the powder is used for killing “ black 
beetles.” I have twice exterminated the latter 
insects in kitchens by blowing the powder into 
tiie cracks round the kitchen range every 
evening for a fortnight. G. S. S.] 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 










114 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


Apiul 27, 1907 


CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

SEASONABLE HINTS. 

The present is a very busy time for all 
growers of Chrysanthemums for exhibition, 
as the plants are now growing very freely, 
and some of the strongest will require re¬ 
potting. It is a great mistake to leave 
young plants in the pots when they have well 
filled them with roots, as unless they have a 
source of food supply to • draw upon they 
quickly begin to deteriorate. Individual 
plants must be inspected, and only those of 
the character above described should be taken 
in hand. It is a good plan first of all to go 
through the collection, separating the more 
forward plants, standing these by themselves, 
as they need more constant attention than 
those plants which are less well rooted. It 
will be found that the well-rooted plants re¬ 
quire watering more frequently than those 
that have only partially filled their pots with 
roots, and by standing them apart from the 
rest it is much easier to satisfy the require¬ 
ments of the respective batches of plants. 
If it is not quite convenient at the moment to 
commence the second repotting, rather than 
let the plants suffer from want of the shift, 
we would be disposed to givo them an occa¬ 
sional weak dose of soot-water or liquid- 
manure, in this way satisfying their require¬ 
ments until a convenient period arrives. The 
soil for this repotting requires rather more 
careful preparation than that for the first 
potting. In this instance the proportions of 
soil should be as follows:—Four parts loam, 
one-third part well-rotted manure, one part 
,»v sprinkling of bone-meal, and a 
sixth part of coarse silver sand, with a 5-inch 
potful of any well-known and reliable con¬ 
centrated plant food to each bushel of soil. 
Give the heap a thorough mixing. It is a 
good plan to prepare the soil a few days be¬ 
fore it is required for use, and on each suc¬ 
ceeding day turn the heap over, to make sure 
that the ingredients are evenly-mixed. Use 
clean pots and crocks. This is absolutely 
necessary, otherwise, later on, when the 
plants are turned out, the roots may adhere 
to the sides of the pot, and many of them be 
damaged in consequence. A 0-inch pot should 
be used for almost every plant; just a few of 
the weaker plants being satisfied with a rather 
smaller pot. Crock each pot with care, and 
cover the drainage with some of the rougher 
portions of the compost, and place a small 
handful of the compost over this. Proceed 
then to shake out the plant, removing the 
crocks carefully, subsequently placing it in 
position on the soil at the bottom of the 
6-inch pot. Fill in carefully, working down 
the compost between the ball of soil and 
roots ana the side of the pot by the aid of a 
small wedge-shaped rammer or stout label. 
This working down of the soil is essential. 
As the plants are repotted, stand them in 
square blocks by themselves in a sheltered 
situation, but if there is plenty of cold-frame 
room available, it were better to stand them 
in the frame for a few days to recover from 
the check, which they will speedily do, and 
thus enable them to be placed outdoors all 
the sooner. 

Regarding the other plants in the collec¬ 
tion, the lights should be removed from these 
on every favourable occasion, so that they 
may get nicely hardened off, and sturdy in 
consequence. Many people fail to give the 
decorative sorts Ihe system of high culture 
usually accorded, to the exhibition sorts, and 
it is here that a great mistake is often made. 
The decorative varieties to be seen at their 
best require just os much attention as the 
exhibition sorts, and those who arc prepared 
to give them this consideration are sure to l>e 
rewarded in the flowering season with a de¬ 
lightful display. The decorative sorts, in 
order to induce a bushy growth, should have 
the point of the shoots pinched out. This 
should be done when the plants are 6 inches 
high, and each succeeding 6 inches of growth 
should be treated in a similar fashion. This 
pinching of the growths may continue until 
the end of June, or early July, when the last 
pinching should be done. Plants treated in 
this way develop into most delightful speci¬ 
mens. and will give from a .terminal bud 
selection a fine iris' 

“ill 


8 


iignu 

termi 

le 


The outdoor kinds may still be divided, and 
the sucker-like pieces, if broken off and 
dibbled into prepared soil in the cold-frame, 
will quickly make very useful plants for plant¬ 
ing out in their flowering quarters about mid- 
Mav. This method of dealing with the old 
stools saves one a great amount of trouble 
and expense, as the majority of the early 
flowering Japanese and Pompon kinds break 
up very readily into numerous pieces, and 
with comparatively little trouble one may 
perpetuate the stocks of the different varieties 
quite freely. Rooted cuttings should still be 
bedded out in the cold frame, as this more 
natural system of treating them invariably 
gives a type of plant that flowers well. 

E. G. 

CHRYSANTHEMUMS FOR THE CON¬ 
SERVATORY. 

I am a novice at Chrysanthemum growing. I do not 
want to go in for large single or show blooms, but those 
for conservatory decoration and for cutting. I am 
bewildered over first and second crown buds, terminals, 
stopping, datesto take buds, and so on. If I had a con¬ 
cise cultural note, from preparing plants from which to 
fake cuttings right on to blooming period, I should be 
deeply indebted to you. — A. F. 

[To grow nice bushy plants fur conservatory 
decoration, or for the supply of a quantity of 
cut bloom, it is not necessary to propagate 
very early. One may begin (early April) with 
rooted plants. These should lie potted singly 
into small pots and placed in a cool frame or 
greenhouse without fire heat. Use a compost 
of loam, rotted turf (which may form a third 
of the whole), and leaf-mould or thoroughly 
rotted manure, adding a little sharp sand or 
road grit. After being potted, give a good 
soaking and shade the plants for a couple of 
days, also “keep- the structure closed. In 
about a fortnight another shift will be needed. 
This time 5-inch pots may be used, as well as 
a similar compost, only that the latter need 
not be sifted. It is better to break up the 
turf, so that all the fibre remains in it. I’rcss 
the earth firmly into the pots, which have been 
previously prepared by placing crocks over 
the drainago holes. When eacli plant is about 
6 inches high, cut off the points a couple of 
inches in length. These may he struck to fur 
nish useful little plants to bloom in small 
pots. The cuttings make roots readily if dib¬ 
bled into shallow boxes filled with any ordi¬ 
nary potting soil, 'file boxes may be stood 
out-of-doors, but iu the shade, and the leaves 
sprinkled occasionally. As the older plants 
will require another topping later, still an¬ 
other batch can bo rooted. Cuttings struck 
as late as June will grow into sturdy little 
bushes and give half a-dozen or more flowers. 
Such plants are convenient to stand on stages 
or to furnish vases in the house. It is advis¬ 
able to give some protection at night in case 
of frost., otherwise Chrysanthemums succeed 
best when abundance of air reaches them. 
About the middle of May they can be stood in 
the open air. Select an open spot in the 
garden, and allow each plant plenty of room. 
This is important. Put each pot a foot or 
over from its neighbour ; and later, when the 
specimens have reached considerable dimen¬ 
sions, give yet more room. Meantime, water¬ 
ing must be carefully attended to. After pot¬ 
ting, when a good soaking is given, little will 
be required until new roots take to the soil. 
Then, ns the pels become full, almost daily 
supplies are needed. Of course, one must bo 
guided very much by the weather. Early in 
June the forwnrdest plants should l>e fit for 
the final shift. Nine-inch pots should be used 
for the strongest plants only ; a size 1 inch 
less in diameter will do for the bulk of sorts. 
This time some care must be taken in the 
matter of drainage, as the plants are to stop 
in these pots until they have bloomed. Place 
one piece of crock over the hole, and over this 
just a covering of pieces broken small. Turfy 
loam may still form twn-tliirds of the potting 
soil. The rougher it is that is, tho more 
fibre it contains -the better, as then there is 
little danger of its forming into a heavy mass. 
Use rotted manure instead of leaf-mould. 
This should be in such a condition that it may 
be passed through a sieve. Grit 6hould be 
added, also mortar rubble, the latter to keep 
the soil porous. If the loam is particularly 
fibrous a small proportion is advised. By the 
time the final potting stage is reached thfef 1 . 


plants will have made three or more shoots. 
These, as has been noted, may be cut back 
when about 6 inches long, the points being 
6aved for propagation. As firm potting is 
essential, a stick is used for this purpose, so 
that the soil may be rammed into the large 
pots. Firm potting assists a solid growth and 
well-ripened wood. Tying the shoots to sticks 
may be done early, thus preventing the los-s "f 
6ome by wind and other causes. This will 
also bring the plauts into shape. 

Manures—that is, concentrated forme, are 
not advised as a mixture in the soil. It is far 
bettor to use such later. It is so easy' to 
overdo them, and thus prevent roots forming, 
in which case they positively do harm. About 
six weeks after potting the plants will need 
feeding. Liquid from cow-manure placed in 
a tub of water is excellent, nnd the well- 
known fertilisers which are advertised arn 
capital, too. In this form the manures are 
not unpleasant, nnd may be sprinkled on the 
surface of the soil twice a week. It is well to 
rememlier, however, that two weak doses are 
better than one strong one, seeing to it that 
the soil lias been well moistened previously. 

The matter which puzzles you—namely, the 
different crown buds, dates of topping, and so 
on, need not concern you because those terms 
are used in the growth of Chrysanthemums 
for exhibition blooms only. You have simply 
to top your plants (which may not be done 
after June) to induce a bushy growth, and let 
the bloom-buds cornu at will. The sorts will 
not all develop the buds at the same time. 
If you desire a few flowers of good size—not 
huge specimens the buds may Ik; thinned. 
The plauts should not be left outside after 
September. When under glass, air should bo 
admitted in abundance, and at. that time, tho 
pots being filled with roots, copious supplies 
of water are necessary. The later-struck 
plants may have subsequent shifts, and tho 
last sizes should not bo over 6 inches in dia¬ 
meter. After flowering, cut the plants down 
almost close to the pots. Keep them in a coni 
house to provide a stock of cuttings for an¬ 
other year. Cuttings at all times may Iw; 
rooted in shallow boxes in preference to other 
plans. They do so in winter and early spring 
readily iu a temperature of about 45 degs.] 


GARDEN PESTS AND FRIENDS. 


NOTES AND HE ELIES. 

Mussel scale I herewith send you a brnm-li <»f 
Cox’s Orange Pippin Apple, out from a five-ycar-ohl 
tree. This particular tree is Madly attacked* witli a 
bark wale insect, as you will observe. Planted in H.< 
same 20-acre orchard are many thousand trees, fun, 
so far, only some twenty trees are infested, t h»* 
others being of strong, vigorous growth, and quite 
clean. I have noticed that the trees which heroine 
infested are invariably ones that have not thrived 
well-I mean, that a stunted tree takes the attack 
easily—of course, when once infested, the growth, 
naturally, is much weakened. The pest is not con¬ 
fined to this variety—Lane's Prince Albert, Allington 
j Pippin, and Early Victoria being amongst the nuin- 
I ber. It appears to me almost identical with the 
i Orange scale, and gets on the fruit iu the same 
manner. 1 have tried dressing the trees with lime ; 
but, although this considerably cheeks it, it does not 
destroy it effectually. Can you give me the name and 
; life history of tho insect, so that I c an judge when 
best to prevent the spreading? I propose to dre.^s 
the trees in the autumn with a caustic: soda Wash; 
but I shall be glad of any suggestions from you, oven 
to the strength <d the wash I might safely use, if 
you agree with me? aiti.k Scvi.k. 

[The shoots you send arc attacked by the 
common “Mussel scale.” You cannot do 
belter than scrub the affected parts with ;i 
i stiflisli brush, dipped iu a solution of paraffin 
emulsion or some of the insecticide that aro 
I sold which contain paraffin and soft soap. 

I Tho scale lays its eggs beneath itself, and 
j then shrivels up and (lies, the outer covering 
of tho insect remaining and forming a shelter 
[ for tho eggs and young scale. In applying 
! any insecticide it is most important to remove 
the scale so that tho former may reach the 
eggs or young insects. Any time in the winter 
would be a good time to perform the opera¬ 
tion. The young ones batch and leave tho 
scale towards the end of May or early in June. 
If the infested parts are then well scrubbed, 
even with a dry brush, the young ones will 
be destroyed, if the insect attacks parts of 
1 the tree -which cjaiinpt be dealt with in thin 
I manner, the best, way is to spray it with tho 
i ro'ko' icy vauMc wioli: 1 r '' 1 lb. of caustic 

URB A 


A-CHAMPAIGN 



April 27, 1907 


GARDENING IL L UNI RAT ED. 


115 


soda into a gallon of water, and add $ lb. of 
carbonate of potash (pearlash). Stir until all 
i£ dissolved, then add 9 gallons of water, and, 
last of all, 10 oz. of soft-soap that has been 
dissolved in a little hot water. Stir all thor¬ 
oughly together, and the mixture is ready for 
use. This mixture is very caustic, and will 
injure the clothes if it gets upon them, and 
should not be allowed to remain on the skin. 
It will destroy any insect life that it comes 
into contact with, also Moss and Lichens, but 
it must be applied before the buds show any 
signs of opening.] 

Insects in garden I have a lot of insects in ray 
garden like those in enclosed small box, and it up- 
pears t-o me that they eat my Tarnation and Pansy 
roots. Will you please say if this is so. und tell me 
how best, to pet rkl of them? Is vaporitc useful for 
this purpose?—C arnation. 

[The creature you sent which vou think in¬ 
jures the roots of your plants us one of the 
“ centipedes ” (Geophilus longicornis). The 
centipedes are carnivorous, and it is an open 
question whether this species when found at ! 


ROSES. 

ROSE OBERUOFGARTNER A. SINGER. 
In the variety illustrated, Oberhofgartner A. 
Singer, we have a really splendid addition to 
the Hybrid Perpetuals, although I quite ex- j 
pect someone will want to claim it for the 
Hybrid Teas. It is in the production of such ( 
Roses that our hope for the Hybrid Perpetual ! 
as a class is based, for if Roses of such 
quality and with such free-blooming and late- j 
blooming propensities are added, we can well 
afford to drop a number of the sorts that now j 
go to the making up of the group. 

(). A. Singer, for such it will surely be , 
called, was raised by Herr P. Lambert, of | 
Trier, from Caroline Testout, crossed with 
Marie Baumann, and introduced in 1904. The I 
pollen parent has imparted a delicious frag¬ 
rance, as it has done in the case of Papa 
Lambert, and, in a measure, the colour of ! 
the Rose under notice partakes largely of that 


Countess Cairns, Dr. J. Campbell Hall, Gus¬ 
tave Grunerwald, Gabrielle Pierrette, Lady 
Ashtown, Pbarisacr, Betty, Souvenir de 
Maria Zozaya, and others, each one deserv¬ 
ing to be grown in masses of twenty or more 
plants, for, undoubtedly, this is the way to 
obtain a true idea of the merits of a new 
Rose. Rosa. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Roses from cuttings.— Rose cuttings may- 
now be put in. Prepare a dung-bed, and 
when the heat has subsided a little the cut¬ 
tings may be made and inserted around the 
edges of large 60-pots. The soil should be of 
.i sandy nature. Select the best wood with 
best foliage. Pinch off the end leaflet both 
top and bottom. The cutting should contain 
two eyes or buds, and the leaf stalk is re¬ 
tained both bottom and top. The cutting 
should be made level just beneath the bud or 
eye. After the cuttings are inserted and 


Bose 0. A. Singer. From a photograph in Messrs. B. II. Cant and Son’s nursery at Colchester. 



the roots of plants has been feeding on insects 
which have injured the root®, in which cose 
they are decidedly the friends of gardeners, 
or whether they have been the cause of the 
injury, and so should be looked upon as pests. 
As their mouths are furnished with poison 
fangs, like other centipedes which arc un¬ 
doubtedly carnivorous, and as these appen¬ 
dages are of no use to feeders on vegetable 
matter, I am inclined to give a verdict in 
their favour. I do not know of any insecti- 
cido which you could .safely use when they are 
at the rootfi of plants to kill them. I do not 
think that vaporite would be of any use, as 
its action is supposed to bo slow, ami if they 
found it unpleasant they would crawl away. 
1 can only suggest turning them up out of the 
ground if you wish to kill them.—G. S. S.] 


“The English Flower Garden and Home 
Grounds."- A’ew Edition, revised, with descriptions 
of all the be*l plants, trees, and shrubs their culture | 
and arrangement, illustrated on 'Wood. Cloth, 

Sco., 15s. ; post/ree, L's. 6d. I 


■ated/fn'rvood. 6loth, vikdium, I 

“■ Co gTe 


of Marie Baumann. Yet there is a satin 
sheen about the flower that proclaims at 
once the influence of Caroline Testout. 

If raisers would but employ this grand 
Rose more frequently as a seed parent we 
should soon get away from the dwarf, stumpy 
style of the Lady Mary Fitzwilliam race, al¬ 
though one must not despise this latter mar¬ 
vellous production of the late Henry Bennett. 
In O. A. Singer we have a wide, expansive 
flower, pure carmine in colour, with a darker 
centre. The growth is fine, and the blossoms, 
which are produced on stiff stems, con¬ 
tinue unfolding till quite late in the autumn. 
These last two or three seasons have seen 
some remarkable introductions among large- 
flowered garden Roses, and what the future 
has in store for us would be difficult to con¬ 
jecture. Let anyone grow a mass of that 
superb Rose, Florence Pemberton, and see 
what a fine effect will be produced, and I 
might say the same of Earl of Warwick, Koni- 
gin Carola, Hon. Ina Bingham, Wm. Shean, 


made firm, dip the pot in a pail of water to 
make estill more firm, then plunge in the 
manure-bed. It is necessary the foliage be 
sprinkled with a fine rose can on sunny morn¬ 
ings, and care must be taken to immediately 
remove mouldy or decayed leaves. Shade 
the cuttings from bright, sunshine. When the 
young loots are about i inch long pot off into 
thumbs, and keep in similar temperature. 
When a shift is needed they may be potted 
into largo sixties. In July these little plants 
could l>e planted out, and grand stuff they 
would make by the autumn, provided the 
season were favourable, and a nice bed pro¬ 
vided for them. W. X. 

Boses for exhibition .-The.se will soon need 
attention, as regards tying out the growths. This 
should be done carefully to obtain a nicely-balanced 
plant. Green Osiers that have been killed by steep¬ 
ing the ends in boiling water are the best for the 
purpose. Whatever stakes are used, they must not he 
obtrusive. A pinch of artificial manure will aid the 
plants now, and about a week hence they should re¬ 
ceive [ liberal doses—srry, once or twice a week— of 
liquid manure-made from Cow-manure and soot.—E. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 













116 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Amir, 27. 1907 


QARDEN WORK. 

Conservatory.— Fuclisius, Tuberous Bego¬ 
nias, and Zonal Pelargoniums should have 
their final shift into flowering pots. Where 
good loam is obtainable to form the basis of 
the potting compost there is not the same 
necessity to give large shifts. Nice useful 
specimens can be grown in 7-ineh pots, and 
plants a yard high in the case of Fuchsias 
can be grown in 6-inch pots, if potted firmly 
in sound material, of which yellow loam forms 
the base. A little soot, bone-meal, and leaf- 
mould, or very old manure, with enough sand 
to keep it open and sweet, wilL be useful. 
The pyramid with a single stake in the centre 
is the best shape for the Fuchsia, and a small 
amount of stopping or pinching will in most 
varieties obtain the desired result. Market 
growers only grow those varieties which 
assume naturally the right shape. The large- 
flowered or fancy Pelargoniums will soon be 
at their beet, and they make a great blaze of 
colour for a time, and may then be followed 
bv the things named above, and others. Years 
ago show Pelargoniums were quite a feature 
in May, but there are not many growers of 
large specimen plants now. The men who 
grew the fine specimens have gone over to 
the majority, and the taste of the public 
seems to have altered. But Pelargoniums, as 
we remember them, gave a very bright effect 
for a month or so. To be really interesting 
no conservatory can be altogether satisfactory 
unless the changes are frequent. We do not 
want things to last too long, but a succession 
of special features. Thus Pelargoniums may 
be numerous enough to give a distinct tone to 
the house whilst they bust. Mix Fuchsias 
with groups of various kinds of Lilies. Late- 
flowering Azaleas, Olivias, or Imantopbyllums, 
are very distinct just now, and they can be 
grown to flower now in an ordinary cool 
greenhouse temperature. Spiraea Mr. Glad¬ 
stone is an improvement upon the ordinary 
kinds, but the Spiraeas are not so popular as 
they were. They are very thirsty subjects, 
and to keep them in condition they should 
stand in pans of water. Cineraria stellata is 
useful now, and lasting. 

Stove. Climbers should be frequently 
trained and regulated; some of these, espe¬ 
cially Ktephanotis floribunda, are difficult to 
keep free from mealy-bug by the ordinary 
methods of sponging, but it can be done by 
perseverance and by cleanliness in the matter 
of painting and lime-washing. I have gene¬ 
rally found if a plant during a time of pres¬ 
sure gets badly infested with bug or scale, it 
is better and cheaper to burn such than 
waste time in cleaning it. I learnt this lesson 
very early in life, when working under a good 
gardener in the middle of the last century. 
If bug appeared on a plant that plant had to 
be sacrificed, and the consequence was we 
had scarcely any trouble with insects. Of 
course, one makes light of any insect which 
can be destroyed by vapourising. Such in¬ 
sects as red-spider and thrips are often en¬ 
couraged by deficiency of atmospheric mois¬ 
ture, accompanied by high temperatures. 
Tuberoses which are making roots may be 
forwarded by giving more heat. If there is 
a bottom heat bed plunge them for a time. 
Any dry bulbs may yet he potted, and not 
over-watered at first. Shift on Caladiums. 
I like a little good loam for the last shift, 
mixed with a little old cow-manure and sand. 
Pandanus Veitchi may be increased by 
suckers, which form round the base of old 
plants. A night temperature of 65 degs. will 
be right now. 

Ventilating fruit-housea. — Experienced 
gardeners are aware of the importance of 
this matter, but young ]>coplc, especially 
among amateurs, often do harm by leaving 
the houses closed too long when the sun is 
shining upon the glass in the morning, and 
then by opening the lights wide letting in a 
rush of cold air. Perfect ventilation should 
be so gradual as to be scarcely felt by a 
person inside. This means that as soon as the 
sun strikes the roof, and causes a rise of tem¬ 
perature inside, air is admitted by open¬ 
ings along the ridge not enough to cause a 
downward draugh/TTha heated laii^ coming 
out! meets and wt ^insg ([uj tir Wn|i^ in, but 


enough penetrates to sweeten and bring the 
air inside into a free circulation. As the day 
advances more nir is given, but front air is 
not given on cold days. In a perfectly venti¬ 
lated house the foliage of Grape-Vines and 
Peaches is hardy and robust, and red-spider 
is seldom troublesome. Good fruit cannot 
be obtained without good folinge. Mildew’ is 
sometimes very troublesome in stuffy, badly- 
ventilated houses, and at this season as much 
harm is done by over ventilation as by keep¬ 
ing houses too close and stuffy. 

Early Tomatoes. For early work we want 
free setters. Carter’s Sunrise with me last 
year did well, nearly every bloom setting 
without artificial means, and the crop was 
very heavy. There may be other varieties as 
good, but I have not yet seen anything supe¬ 
rior for early work. They were planted in a 
narrow bed on both sides of a long span- 
roofed house, and they met in the centre. 
So vigorous were the plants that after the 
first crop was gathered they produced a 
second one that was cleared off in December. 
The late fruits were smaller, but otherwise 
well coloured and good. In planting Toma¬ 
toes it is a great help to place a little good 
loam round the roots. This is better than 
manure, as it hardens the growth and 
strengthens the blossoms. 

Outside the windows. Annual climbers 
may be sown. Canary Creeper and Tropajo- 
lum majus do better sown where they are to 
flower than when raised in pots. Eccremo- 
carpus ficaber is a pretty climber to train, 
round verandah, ami Maurandya Bnrclayana 
flowers freely, and is light and graceful. This 
is a perennial under glass, ana plants saved 
from last year will make rapid progress. We 
generally save a few plants for that purpose 
in small pots. 

Outdoor garden. Hardy annuals, bien¬ 
nials, and perennials may be sown now. Sow' 
the annuals thinly, and thin freely when 
large enough. Biennials and perennials should 
be sown thinly in drills and transplanted 
promptly when large. To make sure of a 
crop sow choice Pansies and Violas in boxes 
in a cold frame, and transplant when large 
enough. Beds of Auriculas should l>e top- 
dressed with good compost, also plants in 
pots if required. Carnations intended to be 
grown in pots should l>e shifted on at once, if 
not already done. Yellow loam two-thirds, 
and one-third old cow -manure and sharp sand, 
will do them well. Place three plants in an 
8 inch pot in a triangle, and stand on a coal- 
ash bed outside. Be careful with the water- 
pot. The pots should be clean and well- 
drained. Beds of Violas may be planted for 
summer flowering. In porous coils the land 
should bo well broken lip, and a layer of cow- 
manure, buried about 8 inches deep, bo that 
the roots may find it in a mellow condition 
when the hot weather comes. New lawns 
may be sown with Grass-seeds from now till 
the first week in May. We sowed a lawn last 
season in May, and never had Grass-seeds do 
better. Pick a showery time if possible, and 
cover the seeds with a little sifted compost. 

Fruit garden.— There is plenty of blossoms 
on Plums and Pears. The former are open, 
and setting, and the Pear-blossom is ready 
to expand. Apples look promising. Ho far 
as I have seen in our district the birds have 
done less harm than usual to fruit-buds, and 
I have heard fewer complaints of the Black 
Currant mite. A mixture of sulphur and 
lime has been recommended, and I have no 
doubt this will be useful; but I think where 
the first big buds are noticed, and they are 
promptly removed, the pest may be got rid 
of. Of course, in bad cases which have arisen 
through ignorance and neglect a more drastic 
remedy must Ik* adopted. It is as well to 
bear in mind that Apples on the Paradise 
and Pears on the Quince must be fed on the 
surface, and the spade must not be used 
among the roots. If Peaches are to be kept 
clean and healthy a very close watch must be 
kept upon the trees, and at the first appear¬ 
ance of green or black aphides use Tobacco- 
powder. This I find is the best remedy, but 
it must be applied in time. 

Vegetable garden. It is time all Potatoes 
were planted- Those who have not tried seed 


Potatoes from Scotland or Ireland will find 
mi advantage in doing so, and giving them 
plenty of room. Erill or spade planting is 
better than the dibble, and it offers facilities 
for giving a dressing of artificial manure, 
should such be needed. Asparagus is now 
working through. There is no doubt, I think, 
that the trench or single-row system is better 
than the old narrow bed plan, where the 
plants starve each other. This is a good 
time to make new plantations where the 
plants have been raised at home. No one 
should plant for a permanency roots olcDr 
than two years, and very often if they have 
been well grown, yearlings are better. Good 
Asparagus cannot 1 m* grown on poor land. It 
will grow well in light sandy soil, if manured 
freely, and salt used annually at the rate of 
1 lb. per square yard. The salt will attract 
and hold up the moisture. Any arrears of 
seed-sowing should be brought up to date. 
Prick out Celery and sow Spinach. 

E. Hobday. 

THE COMING WEEK S WORK. 

Extracts from a Garden Diary. 

April 39th. —Made a new plantation of 
Globe Artichokes. By planting a row nr two 
every year and getting rid of a corresponding 
number of old stools the plants are kept in 
vigorous, free-bearing condition. Made n 
further and last sowing of winter greens. 
Spinach is sown fortnightly for the present, 
but there is plenty of Spinach now from the 
autumn-sown beds. Spinach substitutes for 
use in hot weather will consist of Spinach 
Beet and the New Zealand Spinach, both of 
which are just sown- the latter in heat. 

A pril 30th. —Shifted on a lot of double 
Lobelias. These flower very freely in 5 inch 
pots, and arc useful for small baskets and 
the front of window-boxes. Tomatoes are 
being planted in cool-houses, or are placed in 
7-inch and 8-inch pots to fruit in pots. Filled 
a number of pans with Selaginellas. Sowed 
Cinerarias and Primulas for winter flowering ; 
shall sow again later. Dusted Tobacco- 
powder among the foliage of Peach trees on 
walls. 1 have tiotieed a stray aphis or two 
about. 

May 1st. Bedding plants which have been 
moved to cold frames and turf pits will bo 
protected at night, as we want to keep the 
foliage fresh and healthy. Planted Melons 
on hot-bed. By-anil-bye all spare frames w’ill 
be filled with Cucumbers, Melons, Capsi¬ 
cums, etc. Some of the best of the forced 
Strawberries have been planted out to obtain 
a late autumn crop. The early flowers will 
1)2 removed from beds of alpines, ns they are 
not wanted till the large-fruited kinds are 
over. 

May 2nd. —Late Strawberries in pots in 
frames or cold-houses are thinned to twelve 
on each plant, and the cluster of fruit sup¬ 
ported with small sticks to keep them off the 
soil. Old healthy plants of Begonia Gloiro 
de Lorraine have been cut down to produce 
cuttings. Put in more cuttings of Poinsettius. 
Looked over Peaches on walls to do a little 
disbudding where the shoots are crowded. 
Not much will Ik* done at present, us the 
weather now seems rather unsettled. 

May 3rd. —During dry weather, recently 
moved evergreen treps and shrubs are 
damped overhead in the afternoon after a 
hot day. Sowed several kinds of Cauliflower, 
to continue the succession. All Cabbages and 
Cauliflowers are earthed up. This supports 
the stems and keeps in the moisture. A 
string of matting is usually placed round 
Cabbages to hasten the hearting, and all Let¬ 
tuces are tied up to blanch. 

May Jfth. —Sowed herbaceous Calceolarias. 
These will always be grown cool. Turnips 
are sown now in small quantities, as these 
early sowings are not always reliable. The 
hoe is used freely among seedlings as soon 
as the little plants can be seen. Tea Roses 
which have been grown in pots in eold-franics 
have now been planted out in a well-made 
bed. Potted on Tomatoes intended for 
planting outside. Slaked Carnations in pots 
now throwing up flower stems. Potted off 
Celosias in warm frames. 



Arrm, 27, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


117 


BIRDS. 

Canary (Soldier).— This bird appears to 
have suffered from lung trouble, and could 
not have lived much longer. You, there¬ 
fore, did right in putting an end to its life. 
The wheezing may have arisen from its hav¬ 
ing been kept high up on a wall of a room 
in which gas is burned. In such n position 
the air is dry and exhausted, and liable to 
cause irritation of the bronchial tubes. While 
protecting them from cold air and draughts 
it will be found that canaries always enjoy 
better health if kept in unheated apartments. 
When a bird is suffering from wheezing it 
should have about eight drops of glycerine, 
and a little gum arahic in its drinking water 
daily. It may have also a small supply of 
broken grits and a little hard-boiled egg 
mixed with Arrowroot biscuit. Flax-seed is 
also good in eases of this kind. Koine old 
mortar, bruised and mixed with the grit- 
sand, will also prove of value in restoring the 
bird lo health. Pampering with sugar and 
other sweet food should be avoided, but a 
good supply of Watercress and Dandelion 
may be given.— S. S. G. 

Parrot ailing (A. li.).— Try what a change 
of diet will do. Discontinue the “ parrot 
mixture,” and let the fcod consist of one part 
Wheat, two Dari, two Hemp, two Canary ; 
Nuts, Bananas, Grapes, ripe Peare, and 
Green Peas when in season. You are right 
in not giving your bird sop or sloppy food of 
any- kind, as these are very harmful. A dry 
crust of bread, or a plain biscuit, may, how 
ever, be given at any time. In speaking of 
diarrhoea, fn his “ Diseases cf Cage Birds” 
Dr. Greene says :—“ This is, properly speak¬ 
ing, a symptom rather than an actual disease, 
for it occurs as an accompaniment of several 
disorders, especially typhoid fever and 
phthisis, as well as some forms of liver com¬ 
plaint ; but when the discharge from the 
bowels is excessive, special treatment may be 
required for its relief. The character of the 
discharge varies with the exciting cause, and 
it is seldom advisable to stop it altogether, as 
it is Nature’s way of carrying off offending 
matter from the intestinal canal. If the com¬ 
plaint is due to the presence of indigestible 
food in the bowels a dose of castor-oil, or of 
tincture of rhubarb, in doses of from one to 
ten drops, proportioned to the size of the 
patient, will be the best method of causing it 
to cease.” Do not fail to let your parrot have 
an abundant supply of coarse sand, that its 
digestive organs may be kept in good order.— 
S. S. G. 


BEES. 


USEFUL HINTS. 

STOCKS of bees left to themselves do not in¬ 
crease rapidly until the honey harvest com¬ 
mences, but by brood spreading and feeding 
6trong colonies may be established, ready to 
make the most of the honey harvest whenever 
it comes. Success in bee-keeping much de¬ 
pends upon having stocks strong, when 
honey is plentiful- As the demands upon the 
stores will now be heavy, syrup should he 
given where needed. This may lie made by 
dissolving 7 lb. cf sugar in three pints cf water, 
slightly boiling, and adding a tablespoonful 
of vinegar and a pinch of salt. The syrup 
should be given slightly warm. It takes 
something like six weeks to make a colony 
strong enough to obtain full advantage from 
the honey flow, which seldom begins before 
the end of May or the beginning of June. ]f 
hives be now examined they will in most cases 
be found to contain three or four combs 
partly filled with sealed brood. In brood- 
spreading the honey cells in the combs con¬ 
taining least brood should be uncapped and 
placed between two combs containing a larger 
quantity. This causes the queen to deposit 
C gg S round the brood, and so extend it to a 
greater distance than that occupied by the 
brood on the other two combs. In about a 
week after the first operation the hive should 
again be examined, and those combs contain¬ 
ing least brood have the honev-cells uncapped, 
and in their turn, placed between those con- 
Uin’ing moat brood, 


bruod spreading in to have the space occupied 
crowded with bees, so that they can still cover 
the outer combs should a spell of cold weather 
ensue; the number of frames should, there¬ 
fore, not be increased, but the division-boards 
be kept in their places, and the combs manip¬ 
ulated until every comb contains brood. 
When from increase of young bees the space 
begins to be overcrowded a division-board 
may be moved, and a frame or two of empty 
comb inserted at intervals of a few days. 

Weak stocks may be quickly built up into 
strong colonies if in possession of a prolific 
queen. The bees should be confined to only 
as many frames of comb ns they can cover. 
These combs should contain some sealed 
stores, and additional ones should be supplied 
as required by the increase of the bees, and 
a few cells of honey occasionally unsealed. 
When the colony becomevS strong enough to 
cover them a comb or two of brood from a 
strong stock nmy be supplied. If, on exami¬ 
nation, a hive is found to be queenless, no 
time should be lost in uniting the bees to a 
colony having a fertile queen. It can be done 
by quietly inserting the combs with the ad¬ 
hering bees on the outer sides of such colony. 
This should be performed in the evening, and, 
after a little smoke has been injected, the 
united bees should be fed with syrup by 
means of % bottle-feeder. A colony in a healthy 
and prosperous condition will in fine weather 
be seen carrying into the hive large quanti¬ 
ties of pollen, which, together with honey 
and water, is used in the rearing of the brood. 
A hive may be judged to be queenless when 
the bees are found to lose energy, fail to carry 
in pollen, and are seen crawling about on the 
outside of the hive, and on the floor-board in 
a listless manner. Where a queenless hive is 
suspected a careful inspection of the interior 
by examination of each comb separately 
should be made. The queen is usually on one 
of the central combs, but if she cannot be dis¬ 
covered, and there are neither brood nor eggs 
in the cells, it may be concluded that the hive 
is queenless. This being so, it should be re¬ 
queened as quickly as possible, either by the 
introduction of a young queen or a frame of 
brood from another hive ; but much time will 
be saved by the introduction of a fertile 
queen, which will begin to lay at once. 


POULTRY. 


Roup in fowls.—I read your analysis of roup in 
this week's Gardening— i.e., cold and a microbe of 
tuberculosis.. 1 should be glad to know if there is 
any danger of contracting tuberculosis by eating eggs 
from fowls that have roup slightly, or from eating 
fowls affected by roup? Roup lias been lately intro¬ 
duced into my poultry-yard by fowls I bought, and I 
do not know if there is risk of infection to human 
beings.—W. M. FRASF.R. 

[So far as is known at the present time 
there is no danger whatever of infection by 
eating eggs produced by birds suffering from 
roup. Eating the birds themselves is another 
matter, and if they are badly affected it would 
bn unwise to sell them for consumption. At 
the same time, it is quite probable that the 
cooking destroys all microbes.—E. T. B.] 

Hatching nests. A great difference may 
be found in the nests for hatching employed 
by different poultry-keepers. Nothing is 
more common than to see a row of neats made 
by nailing long planks against a wall. In 
these the hens are allowed to lay and, as they 
become broody, to sit. The plan is a conve¬ 
nient one, but it is difficult to imagine any¬ 
thing more defective. These rows of nests 
become infested with vermin as they c annot !** 
readily cleaned ; if they are employed as 
hatchers the eggs are on the board separated, 
perhaps, by a few handfuls of straw or hay, 
which are infested with lice. Consequently 
the hens get irritable, do not sit well, and 
hatching is not successful. In a natural con¬ 
dition these gallinaceous birds, fowls, 
pheasants, partridges, etc., nest on the 
ground. This affords a very steady and genial 
supply of warmth and, at the same time, 
moisture. The nests of ordinary hens should 
always be on a basis of earth. The boxes iii 
which they are placed should be separate and 
movable, so that as soon as the hen has 
hatched and the chickens are removed, the 
neat can be at once taken out of the house and 


destroyed so as to prevent the spread of the 
vermin, which infest even the very cleanest 
and best nests. A plan to be highly recom¬ 
mended, is to remove the nest the moment the 
hen has laid, and set fire to the material of 
which it ia composed. In this way a large 
number of vermin are destroyed, and thus 
prevented from spreading to other nests. 
Boxes or baskets are not objectionable pro¬ 
vided they are filled with a good layer of earth, 
which has the two-fold advantage of retaining 
warmth and not harbouring vermin .—The 
Field. 


LAW AND CUSTOM. 


Gardener and holiday (Anxious to Know). 
—This is purely a question of fact. If the 
master gave you a duy’s holiday without any 
suggestion of stopping your wages, leading 
you to suppose that they would 1x3 paid as 
usual, then you are clearly entitled to them. 
There is no justification for a master who 
gives unqualified permission to his servant to 
stay away and then deducts a proportion from 
his wages for the time so spent.- Barrister. 

Guardians employe trading on his own 
account (T. IF./— 1 There is nothing legally 
wrong in the guardians allowing a man to 
trade on his own account at the same time ns 
he is doing work for them—especially work 
of a more or less irregular type -but directly 
any suggestion can be imported into the mat¬ 
ter of misuse or anything of the sort it is the 
duty of the guardians to look into the mat¬ 
ter, even though, as in the case you mention, 
it is the man’s wife who is ostensibly carry¬ 
ing oil the business. If, therefore, there are 
reasonable grounds for supposing that private 
traders who are ratepayers are being in any 
way prejudiced by the arrangements between 
this man and the guardians, the best tiling 
you can do is to write to the Local Govern¬ 
ment Board in London, stating the facts, and 
asking them to inquire into the matter.— 
Barrister. 

Encroachment by local authority (F . 

IIore).— I am decidedly of opinion that this 
is a matter upon which you ought to take 
vigorous action. The first step will be to con¬ 
sult a solicitor, and instruct him to write on 
your behalf, demanding that the annoyance 
and encroachment shall cease, and requiring 
them to restore the portions of the hedge 
which have been washed away by their water¬ 
course. If they decline to do so, then it will 
be necessary for you to apply for an injunc¬ 
tion, and to claim damages at the eame time. 
I am not quite clear, from reading your letter, 
as to the length of time this has been going 
on, but you do not appear to have acquiesced 
in their proceedings, so that as far as I can 
see you have a good ease. However, your 
solicitor will be able to form an opinion when 
be has the whole of the facts before him. and 
L should recommend you to see him with as 
little delay as possible.—B arrister. 

Fowls trespassing (J. T.).— Your neigh¬ 
bour is not entitled to shoot your poultry 
when they trespass upon his ground ; but lie 
can sue you for the accurate value of any 
damage they may do to his garden. In the 
same way you are not at liberty to injure his 
eats ; but if they come upon your premises, 
and do damage to your hay, you may sue him 
for the value of the damage done. If he 
shoots your fowls you may sue him for their 
value ; and if you kill his cats he may sue you 
for their value. Neither of you is entitled 
to take the law into his own hands, but each 
of you must proceed according to the remedy 
which the law provides you with.— 
Barrister. 

Gardener's notice to leave (Gardener). — It has 
been decided in several cases that a head-gardener 
not living in his master’s dwelling-house and having 
under-gardeners subject to his directions is entitled 
to a month's notice. Unless, therefore, you made a 
special agreement with your employer that the en¬ 
gagement should be terminated by a week’s notice 
on either side, you are entitled to be paid the extra 
three weeks’ wages in lieu of notice.— Barrister. 


Catalogues received- Jas. Veitcli and Sons, 

Ltd.. Chelsea, 8.W .—Novelties for 190 7.-J. C. Tis- 

sot. 7, Rue du Louvre, Paris .—Garden Ueqntstie*. - 

The Yokohama Nursery Co., Ltd., 21-25, Nakamura, 
Yokohama. Japan.-Cuta/oai/e of Plants. Seeds, etc., 
for 1907. -Amos Perry, Knfleld, Middlesex.— Cata¬ 

logue oj Water plants. 


URBANA-CHAMPA 




ns 


gardening illustrated. 


April 2 ?, 190 ? 


but it in necessary to obtain the seeds from a good 
strain, and, unfortunately, the very Hue combs do uot 
produce much seed. Balsams may be raised and 
started in the hot-bed also, but as soon as they ure 
fairly established in separate pots they will do better 
on u greenhouse-shelf, near the glass. Both plants 
require rich soil. Turfy-loam and old munure, in 
equal parts, will grow them well. 

Amaryllises unhealthy (Anxious).— Amaryllises 
arc sometimes liable to have the leaves and flower- 
stems blotched with red, and when very bud it not 
only disfigures the plant, but also arrests the growth 
of the stem. Opinions differ somewhat as to the 
cause, but the generally accepted idea is that too 
much moisture during the winter, both atmospheric 
and at the roots, combined with too low' a tempera- 
lure, is the principle cause of this disfigurement. As 
the roots of yours hud wintered badly, the bulbs 
should early in -February have been turned out of 
their pots, and any showing signs of disease been 
shaken clear of the soil. Then any discoloured por¬ 
tions might have been cut away, and when this was 
done the bulbs should have been repotted, using fresh 
compost and clean pots. As it was not done pre¬ 
viously, we should advise you to repot the bulbs 
directly the flowers arc past, for without good 
healthy roots you cannot expect a good display next 
season. It is very necessary that the bulbs be well 
ripened in the autumn, then in winter they should, if 
possible, be kept in a temperature of 50 degs. to 
55 degs. Little or no water will be needed during 
the greater part of November, in December, and in 
January—that is, if they are kept away from the liot- 
water pipes. 

TREES AND SIIRUBS. 

Pruning Rhododendrons (R. B.).— The pruning 

of Rhododendrons should be done so soon as the 
blooming is over, but even then, if hard cutting-in is 
needful, it is almost certain that the bloom for the 
following season will be lost. Shoots have to be made 
after a severe pruning, and these may be made too 
late to form bloom-buds the following season. 

Pruning Hollies (R. B.).— Unless absolutely ne¬ 
cessary, it is a great mistake to prune Hollies, us 
they are always seen at their best when allowed to 
grow naturally. The best time for pruning is just 
before the trees start into growth. You may cut out 
the points of the side shoots, doing this with a knife, 
but do not on any account pinch or cut out the point 
of the leader. 

Ampelopsis Veitchi ((?. R.).—Certainly cut away 
all the really dead portions now, clearing them away 
from the wall, and then training in the young grow ths 
in their place as they progress. Some good loamy 
soil and decayed manure might be placed over its 
roots, first removing the old exhausted soil—this 
must be done carefully, as the season is far ad¬ 
vanced now. The liquid-manure can be applied in a 
clear and weak state later on in the season, and once 
or twice a week a good soaking of it would be an 
advantage if the summer is a hot and dry one. A 
mulch of manure would be an advantage over the 
fresh soil to prevent drought. 

Evergreen climbers for north wall (If. W. 
Frost).—Climbers or wall-plants of an evergreen 
character are, with the exception of Ivies, very 
limited in number, especially when the wall faces 
the north. One advantage possessed by Ivies is that 
they attach themselves to the wall without any 
trouble. You might with advantage grow a collec¬ 
tion of Ivies thereon, planting them at .‘1 feet or 
4 feet apart, according to the vigour of your plants. 
A green leaved and a variegated variety alternately 
will yield a very pleasing effect. Other subjects 
likely* to suit are Berberis stenophylla, that bears 
golden-yellow flowers in May; Crataegus Ryraeantha 
(Fire Thorn), scarlet berries in winter; Escallonia 
inaerantha, red flowers in summer; Cotoneastcr mi- 
crophyila. crimson berries in winter: and the different 
variegated varieties of Kuonymus jnponieus. All of 
these, with the exception of the Ivies, will need to he 
secured to the wall. In planting any of those sub¬ 
jects care should be taken that there is suitable soil 
for them to root into.as too often a lot of brick rubble 
and other rubbish is buried just at the foot of the 
wall. There is a great variety of Ivies, and if you 
think of planting them the better way will he to go 
to a local nurseryman and make a selection of those 
you prefer. 

Myrtle leaves falling (L.).-The Myrtle is natur¬ 
ally of an evergreen character, and, though some of 
the oldest loaves drop just as the young ones push 
forth in spring, it should certainly not lose all its 
leaves as yours has done. Two reasons for the leaves 
dropping may be suggested-firstly, exposure to frosts 
sufficiently severe to injure the foliage, but not 
enough to kill the shoots; and, secondly, extreme 
drought at the roots during the winter months. 
When once established in a large pot or tub the 
Myrtle will keep in health for years without being 
disturbed at the roots. You mention that the tub in 
which vour plant is growing has no drainage, hence 
we should advise you to bore three or four holes in 
the bottom, as stagnant moisture is very injurious to 
all classes of plants. IT at any time you decide to 
repot or retub it, place some broken crocks in the 
bottom, and these in conjunction with the holes will 
ensure drainage. In the case of Myrtles that have 
been standing in the same pot or tubs for years, and 
which it is undesirable to disturb at the roots, a 
little weak manure-water in which some soot has 
been dissolved will, if given about once a fortnight 
during the summer months, be of great service. 


Grafting seedling - tree fruits (Salopian). -»■ 

Without doubt, grafting on to proper stocks, scions 
from seedling-trees does conduce to earlier fruiting 
than is usually the case where seedling-trees remain 
to flower and fruit as they may. But seedling-trees 
can be induced to fruit earlier than they otherwise 
would were they carefully lifted in November and re¬ 
planted or roots were pruned. Even grafted trees 
would hardly carry fruit before the third year, and 
perhaps later still. 

Stopping Vine shoots (J. B.).— It was quite 

right to stop the side-shoots having bunches of fruit 
on at two leaves beyond each bunch. With regard 
to the second growth of laterals from these fruit- 
hearing shoots, it will be best to rub them clean out 
at each joint below the bunch, and stop those be¬ 
yond the same at one or two leaves, according to the 
roof space. If there is room, so that each leaf re¬ 
ceives an abundance of light ami air, the more foli¬ 
age there is on a Vine the greater will be its vigour; 
therefore, ill this matter you must be guided entirely 
by the space available. 


SHORT REPLIES. 


Miss Jones.—Wo do not think that the cracked 
corms will interfere with the flowering of the Cycla¬ 
mens, and if these are repotted and cared for you 
should have a good display of bloom again next 

season.-IF. A. N\—1, All depends on the soil for 

which you wish to use the manure and the plants you 
are growing. 2, You can buy the weed-killer far hiore 
cheaply than you can make it, while a great deal of 

trouble is also saved.- R. II. — You ean buy the 

black varnish so cheaply that we do not think it is 
worth while trying to make it yourself. You should 
write to Messrs. Boulton and Paul, Norwich, who, no 

doubt, could supply what you want. - F. S. Arnold. 

—We know of no book dealing w ith the cultivation of 
Maize in this country. You will And a note re this in 

our issue of April noth, p. Job. - B. II. A.—Seeing the 

Vine is so old and evidently exhausted, your best plan 
will lx* to make a new border, and plant a young 

Vine in the autumn.- John Penhall.— Write to 

Messrs. Brefltt and Co., 83, Upper Thames-street, 

London, K.C.- Chine.— 1, The only remedy is to call 

in a mole-catcher. 2, Unless you have a large piece 
of ground and can command a ready sale in your 
neighbourhood for the Daffodil blooms, we would ad¬ 
vise you not to go in for growing them for market. 

- Cotswold.—S, We would strongly advise you to 

consult a hot water engineer in your district.- 

F Prevost, lints.—Wo know nothing of the “ tree 

Strawberry ” about which you inquire.- Edith Falk- 

ener.—a. Mix the rotted Crass mowings with horse- 
manure and use in the kitchen garden. Y'ou will And 
a note re Crass mowings on this page, h, See the 
article on “ Crowing Single Chrysanthemums ” in our 
issue of December 22nd, 11*00, p. 588, a copy of which 

can be had of the publisher, post free, for l$d.- 

Mrs. Patrick.— Without any particulars, it is very 
difficult to say what the cause is. but from the ap¬ 
pearance of the leaves we should say you are keeping 
the plants too close and warm. Are the plants old? 
How long have they been potted? If so, it may be 

that the soil is exhausted.- Threelip .—Tulipa biflora 

has often several flowers on a stem, while on T. 
priest ails there arc sometimes four and five blooms. 

This occasionally happens among other Tulips.- 

Geo. K. Roberti Not at all an unusual occurrence. 

We have had many such examples.- Wnodlawn. — 

Yes, unfortunately your Currant-bushes have been 
attacked by the Black Currant mite. We hope in 

an early issue to give an article on this subject.- 

G. .4.—We cannot undertake to mime Potatoes.- 

Bristol. —The plants you mention are, we fear, not 
quite hardy. We should sow in a greenhouse tem¬ 
perature, planting out a few to try them, and grow¬ 
ing the others in puts in a cool-house.- Mr. Bicker- 

ton Pratt — Silver sand is preferable in every way. 
We should never think of using sifted coal ashes for 

mixing with potting soil.- <'. If. -Wc should prefer 

Oak, if to he had. Larch is also very suitable.- 

Greenhouse.— You are evidently keeping the house 
too close and hot for such plants as Primulas, Ivy- 
leaved Pelargoniums, etc. A temperature of 45 degs. 
is quite sufficient, with, on line days, plenty of venti¬ 
lation. _ 


NAMES OP PLANTS AND TRUXTS. 

Names of plants. Enquirer.— Begonia manicatn. 

- A. K. IS. G.— l. Narcissus Leeds! amabilis. 2, 

N. ineomparabilis Cynosure. S, Incopip. var., now 
discarded. 4, N. Butter and Eggs.-DatfodiJ.—Nar¬ 
cissus of no value, being too near N. Emperor.- 

Mrs. Boulnois. —Forsythia viririissima. See article on 

“ Forsythias," in our issue of April 13th, p. 00.- 

L. R.-Mastic-tree (Pistacia Lentiscus). - M. I). C.— 

Primus Pissardi. - Mrs. M. F. Mum ford.— The Rat's- 

tail Cactus (Cereus flagclliformis).- Ryecroft.— No; 

the deadly Nightshade is Atropa Belladonna. Sco- 
polia carnioliea is also known as Hyoscyamus Seo- 

polia. It was introduced in 1780.- Chas. Jones.— 

1, There being so many Daffodils nowadays, it is 
quite impossible to name them without an oppor¬ 
tunity of comparing them in a large collection. You 
ought to submit the blooms to a specialist. 2, The. 
Marsh Marigold (Caltha palustris). 

Name of fruit L. U. Yonge. - Apple; probably 
Kentish Fillbasket. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

Questions .—Queries and answers are inserted in 
Gardening free of charge \f correspondents follow these 
rules: All communications should be clearly and concisely 
written on one side of the paper only, and addressed to 
the Editor of Gardening, 17, Fit mi ml-street, Ilolbom, 
London, K.C. Letters on business sftPuld be sent to the 
PuliUgnKR. The name and address of the sender are 
required in addition to any designation he may desire to 
be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, 
each should be on a separate piece of paper, and not more 
than three queries should be sent at a time. Correspon¬ 
dents should bear in mind that, as Gardening has to be 
sent to press some lime in advance of date, queries cannot 
always be replied to in the issue immediately following 
the receipt of their communication. We do not reply to 
queries by post. 

Naming fruit .—Readers who desire our help in 
naming fruit should bear in mind that several specimens 
in different stages of colour and size of the same, kind 
greatly assist in its determination. We ha ve received from 
several correspondents single specimens of fruits for 
tiaming, these in many cases being unripe and other¬ 
wise. poor. The differences between varieties of fruits are 
in many cases so trifling that it is necessary that three 
specimens of each kit'ul should be sent. Wc can undertake 
to name only four varieties at a time, and these only when 
the above directions are observed. 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

Daffodils not flowering ( J. If.).—In nil proba¬ 
bility the cause of your Daffodils not flowering is 
weakness owing to the bulbs being crowded together. 
The better plan would be to let them remain where 
they are until the leaves begin to show- signs of de¬ 
cay, when they may he lifted and replanted, if pos¬ 
sible, in new r sites. 

Marking a tennis-lawn (If. Porter).— The court 
should be 78 feet long and 27 feet wide for a single- 
handed game, and for a double-handed game, 78 feet 
long and .% feet wide. It is divided across the 
middle of the length by a net. which is 3 feet 0 inches 
high at the posts and about 3 feet in the middle. 
The service lines are 21 feet from the net and parallel 
with it. 

Plants for vases (P.).— Such good old Fuchsias 
as Rose of Castille, Avalanche, and Madame Come- 
lissen, make elegant centre plants, Petunias, Lobelias, 
J resines, etc., being grouped around them according 
to taste. Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums are extremely 
suitable for drooping over the sides; ns also are 
Lophospermum scandens, Maurandya Barclayana, Ec- 
cremocarpus scaber, and Cobtea scandens variegata. 

Short Grass for liot-beds (//.).—Short Grass 
does very well to work into a hot-bed with long 
stable-manure; but, though it heats rapidly, its 
warmth is trausitory, coining up as it does to a fierce 
heat in twenty-four hours, and as rapidly declining. 
The material is too full of sap and too fragile to make 
a permanent hot-bed; the process of fermentation is 
bo very rapid. We have found the short Grass useful 
to place round a frame where the bottom-heat was 
declining, but it is of little use for permanent work. 

Treatment of Maiden hair Ferns in a room 
(J. S.).— The plants are sometimes brought straight 
from a hot house into a cool room, with the result, 
us anyone having a knowledge of plants would ex¬ 
pect, that most of the fronds die, and the plants also 
sometimes. They should be inured to a greenhouse 
temperature before taking them into a room, and 
with careful treatment they do well for a year at 
least. Water with rain-water made slightly warm; 
let the plants have as much light as possible, and 
keep them out of draughts. 

Camellias in a cold house (C.). — Camellias 
should succeed well in the situation named. A little 
shade over the glass would be beneficial in very hot, 
sunny weather in summer. Plant in a compost of half 
turfy loam and peat, first taking out the natural 
Boil some 2 feet in depth, and placing some G inches 
of brick rubble in the bottom for drainage, laying 
thereon some whole turves to prevent the soil working 
down into it . Good hardy, Tree flowering kinds are 
as follows: —Imbricata, pieoiiiflora. Chandleri elegans, 
alha-pleua, Donckelaari, and Lady Hume's Blush, 
etc. 

Palms losing their lower leaves (logo).— In 
the case of Palms, ns in many other plants, some of 
the oldest and lowermost leaves are apt to turn yellow 
just as the new growth is pushed up, as in this way 
they are deprived of a part of their nourishment. 
This is especially the case if the pots are filled with 
roots. When this is so, an occasional dose of liquid- 
manure or some of the concentrated manures now 
so popular will be very helpful. By this means some 
leaves that would otherwise turn yellow may be saved. 
The first application of the stimulant should be given 
before the young growth starts. 

Maiden hair Pern in a wire basket C3/.).— 
The ordinary Adiantum cuneatuin will do very well 
in this way. Simply line the basket with Moss, fill 
up with fibrous peat and loam, and put the plants 
therein. The real Maiden hair—A. capillus-Veneris— 
is the best, because it makes creeping stems that 
root as they go, and all Ferns of this nature arc un¬ 
commonly well fitted for baskets. They run down 
over the sides, clothe them in time with fronds, 
and seldom die out, even should they get too dry. 
Adiantum capillus-Veneris succeeds better in this way 
than in any other by which it cun be grown, except 
when it can run over stones or something similar. 

Cockscombs and Balsams (If-).— The best place 
for Cockscombs is the hot-bed frame, where there is 
h genial warmth; and they should be grown in the 
frame till the combs are nearly of full size. Sow the 
seeds in a pot or pan, and plunge in the bed. When 
the young plants appear, lift the seed-pot on to the 
surface of the bed, near the glass, and as soon as 
they are large enough to handle, prick off singly into 
small pot-a and return to the hot-bed, shifting on 
into larger pots as monmfmce is required, keeping 
the plpfs nyar the gl*s. much, 


FRUIT. 

Mulching fruit trees (A. /f.).-0n porous soils a 
mulch of manure is beneficial to pyramid fruit-trees, 
even on the free stock or Crab, as its tendency is to 
keep the roots near the surface. If the trees arc 
grafted on the Paradise or Quince it is an absolute- 
necessity if the best results are desired. The best 
time to apply the mulch to established trees is just 
about the time the dry summer weather sets in after 
the sun has warmed the soil. 


Books received. “ Dwarf Fruit-trees : Their Pro¬ 
pagation, Pruning, and General Management, adapted to 
the United States and Canada.” Illustrated. By F. A. 
Waugh. Ivegan Paul, Trench, Trubner, and Co., Ltd., 
Gerrard-street, London, W.-“The National Chrysan¬ 

themum Society’s Year Book for 1907.” Simpkin, 

Marshall, Hamilton, Kent, and Co., London, E.O.- 

“The Principles of Horticulture.” By Wilfred Mark 
Webb. Blackie and Son, Limited, London, Glasgow, and 

ih.wi-. - ijy Qp ILLINOIS AT 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


No. 1,469.-VoL. XXIX. Founded by W. Robinson, Author of “The English Flower Garden.” 


MAY 4, 1907. 


Ampelopsia Veitchi for 
new buildings .. 126 

Apple-tree, grub injur¬ 
ing .127 

Auriculas, show and 
alpine .. .. 131 

Azalea mollis increasing 126 
Beech, our native .. 125 
Beetroot .. .. 128 

Blue Parsley Wort (Tra 
ehymene ccerulea), a 127 
Boronia megaatigma, 
increasing .. 131 

Boston Fern (Nephro 
lepis exaltata) and its 
varieties, the .. .. 120 

Bougainvillea failing .. 131 
Broccoli, spring .. .128 

Bulhs. depth at which 
to piunt .. .. ,. 131 

Bulhs planted in bor¬ 
ders, treatment of .. 122 
Cabbages Inciting .. 128 

Campanulas .. .. 122 

Celery on the bed sys¬ 
tem, growing .. 128 


Chionodoxas 122 

Chrysanthemums 120 

Chrysanthemums, notes 

on.120 

Chrysanthemums, the 
annual 121 

Climbing Bose on green¬ 
house wall .. 131 

Cold-frames .. .. 130 

Conservatory .. .. 130 

Crimean Iris (I, jmmila), 

the .123 

Crocuses.122 

| Crown Imperial not 

tlowering .. .. 122 

! Crown Imperial, soil for 

I the .123 

Cyclamens in window .. 1*27 
I Cyclamens-potting off 124 
Cymbidium Wigania- 

I nutn .120 

Cucumbers, hot-beds for 132 
1 Daffodils in grass .. 122 

: Earwigs.126 

Flower border, hardy, 
mulching the .. .. 123 


Ferns . 

Flowers, spring, from 
the Scilly Islands 
Frost in the south-west, 
effects of the 

Fruit . 

Fruit garden 
Funkias, variepaied- 
leaved, in the house 
Garden diary, extracts 

from a. 

Gardenias unhealthy .. 
Garden pests and friends 
Uarden work 
Gloxinias, feeding 
Gooseberry - mildew 
(Sphterothoca m<>rs- 
uvie), the American .. 
Grape Hyacinth (Mun- 
cari Heldreichi), Hel- 
dreich’s 

Hepaticas. 

Hollyhocks, diseased .. 
Hoya camosa not thriv¬ 
ing .131 

Incarvillen Delavayi 124 


Indoor plants .. .. 124 

In the rooms .. .. 130 

Kalanchue Dyeri .. 124 
Kerria japonica (Jew's 
Mallow), treatment of 132 
Ii&pageria rosea, treat¬ 
ment of.131 

Law and custom .. 131 
Marechal Nicl Rose, 
planting out .. 131 

Melons, the cultivation 

of.129 

Muhur-tree (Poiuciana 
regia), the Gold .. 124 
Myrtle, scale on.. .. 128 

Narcissus Count Vis¬ 
conti .123 

Orchids .120 

Outdoor garden .. 130 

Outdoor plants .. .. 121 

Overcrowding and its 

results.123 

Pelargoniums, fancy . . 124 
Pelargoniums, unhealthy 
leaves on .. 131 

Pergola. No. VII. .. 122 


Plants and Rowers 119 

Plants for the green¬ 
house, pillar 121 

Plants, window .. .. 127 

Poppies, Iceland, in the 

room .127 

Potatoes, sulphate of 
ammonia for .. 123 

Primulas, Star, for cut¬ 
ting .127 

Pyrus japonica failing to 

bloom.126 

Pyrus japonica, increas¬ 
ing .132 

Raspberry-canes, prun¬ 
ing .129 

Rhododendron in bad 
condition .. 126 

Rhubarb for exhibition 
in August 132 

Room and window .. 127 

Roses .119 

Roses, cool-house for 

forced.119 

Rose, Rambler, a beauti¬ 
ful new.119 


Roses-seasonable notes 119 
Salvia splendens.. .. 131 

Stove .130 

Sublaterals, dealing 
with .. 130 

Hwsinsnnia galegifolia 
alba, treatment of .. 131 
Swedes in boxes not 

growing.131 

Sweet Teas raised in 
pots, hardening off .. 123 
Tomatoes in the open 

air.128 

Trees and shrubs .. 125 
Tulips in the ground, 

leaving.122 

Value of decayed leaves 131 
Vegetable garden .. 130 
Vegetables .. 128 

Vegetables, unappreci¬ 
ated .128 

Violets in frames .. 124 
Vine leaves, warts on .. 132 
Vineries, pi silting new 130 
Week's work, the com¬ 
ing .130 


INDEX, 

120 
122 

125 

129 

130 


130 

131 
126 
130 
124 


123 

123 

126 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS, 

ROSES. 

SEASONABLE NOTES. 

At present the outlook seems very promising. 
The buds are swelling nicely, anil the young 
growths upon the wall plants, pillars, and 
pergolas appear very healthy, but we do not 
know* what is in store for us during May. 
Plants on walls with forward growths may be 
so shaded with mats that the danger of spring 
frosts injuring the growths is considerably 
minimised. Some tall poles may be placed 
about a yard from the plants, and a thick 
mat stretched upon them so that when the 
sun shines on the morning following a frost 
the plant is shaded. The frost, if it has laid 
hold of the shoots, will gradually disperse, 
especially if the shoots are syringed with cold 
water. 1 have saved many young plants 
from injury by frost simply by syringing 
them before sunrise, and, if possible, shad¬ 
ing for that day. With the wall plants, as 
well as those on pergolas, we may see now 
whether the growths retained arc too numer¬ 
ous, because it does not require much judg¬ 
ment to discern how close the young growths 
may be allowed for perfect development. It 
is better to cut away now anv superfluous 
shoots rather than allow the plants to grow 
into a thicket, and thus provide a home for 
the thousand and one insect pests the Rose 
is heir to. It is rather early yet to speak of 
thinning the shoots, but. the hint may be 
timely to those whose Rose plants are very 
forward. To obtain quality of blossom it is 
necessary to thin out well, especially in the 
centre of the plants. The one thing the 
amateur really fails in is thinning the 
growths upon his Rose plants; hut I would 
strongly urge upon all readers the necessity 
of taking away those small, sickly shoots that 
frequently abound, so as to direct the ener¬ 
gies of the plant to the stronger and healthier 
ones. If there happens to be any favourite 
Rose with weak growth, pinch off all flower- 
buds for this season. This will help it to re¬ 
cover more than anything else. Withhold 
ctimulants from such plants. How beautiful 
the 

Wichuraiana Roses are now in their ten¬ 
der colouring and long, graceful shoots ! 
Varieties 6uch as Alberie Barbier, Jersey 
Beauty, Gardenia, etc., are so picturesque 
on pillars that, apart from their blossom, 
they are really ornamental plants for their 
foliage and growth alone. I consider them 
the most valuable contribution to our Ram¬ 
bling Roses that raisers have given us, and 
there seems to be no end to the possibilities 
of this group. Some plants on standards with 
seven or eight long growths are just now very 
pretty. The beds and borders should have 
been dug over ere this, but, if not yet done, 
no time should be lost in carrying out the 
work. Do not remove weeds, but just dig 
them under the soil, especially Chickweed. 

Digitized by GOOglC 


This is as good as a coat of manure very 
often, but, of course, I would add the manure 
also. Spring-planted Roses should be made 
firm by placing the heel against the soil and 
pressing both sides of the plant. After this 
is done a Dutch hoe should be pushed under 
the soil, and the whole made level; then a 
thin mulching of short manure, about a year 
old, if possible, given. This keeps the sun 
from cracking the soil, and also from causing 
too rapid evaporation, while it also supplies 
a gentle stimulant. Suckers upon Rose 
plants are now becoming troublesome. These 
should be removed with a spud, or sharp 
knife, thrust into the ground as near the 
roots as seems advisable. Any suckers ap¬ 
pearing on stems of standards shoulfl at once 
be rubbed off. The Briers and Manettis 
budded last summer will now require atten¬ 
tion. The soil should be removed from the 
bud, if this has not already been done, and 
the suckers cut off. Stakes about 2 feet long 
should be placed against each stock. Many 
of the buds will have started into growth, 
and, as soon as long enough, should receive a 
tie. Care is necessary here, or you will 
break out the bud, and the tie should be so 
made that the young growth does not have 
an opportunity to shake ahout, or it will 
probably come out when the first winds come. 
Standard Briers budded last summer need to 
have the young Brier shoots that appear on 
the stem rubbed off. On the two or three 
lateral growths that contain the inserted buds 
it is best to leave some of the Brier growth 
for a time, in order to draw up the sap ; but 
the Brier shoots may be pinched back when 
they have made two or three leaves. They 
are finally cut off when the Rose-shoot has 
grown ahout 5 inches or 6 inches. Stakes 
with one flat side should be tied towards the 
top of the Brier stem, in order that the 
young Rose-shoot may be fastened to it as 
soon as needed. This work must be well in 
advance of the growths. 

Grafted Roses indoors are growing well 
now that we are having more sun. It 
is the absence of sunlight that prevents us 
growing Roses on the same plan as our 
American friends. They readily own that 
our climate in winter and early spring would 
ruin their Rose trade. Our growers who pro¬ 
duce Roses here under such adverse circum¬ 
stances are to be congratulated. The young 
grafts should be potted on from 60’s into 48’s, 
and, if space is to spare, stand the plants 
2 inches or 3 inches apart. This is very im¬ 
portant to the development of a healthy plant. 
The plants need sticks so that the foliage 
may bo syringed beneath to keep down red- 
spider—a terrible pest in greenhouses. 
Rambler Roses intended for forcing next win¬ 
ter should be brought on as rapidly as pos¬ 
sible. As soon as the pots are full of roots 
pot up into 8-inch pots, and give them every 
encouragement as regards heat and moisture. 
It is essential that the plants have two 
months’ good ripening outdoors in autumn, 
in order that they bloom well next winter. 
No gardener cap afford to dispense with some 


of these Rambler Roses for April and May 
blooming, for they are now in much request, 
and most graceful and beautiful they are 
when well flowered. The young plants of all 
sorts need to be looked over about 9 a.m. 
each morning, giving water where needed. 
It is not well to syringe on.dull days, but the 
paths must be moistened. A dry atmosphere 
is very favourable to red-spider, and it should 
be avoided. Rosa. 


A BEAUTIFUL NEW RAMBLER ROSE. 
A charming variety of the climbing multi¬ 
flora class was exhibited at the meeting of 
the Royal Horticultural Society on April 
16th last by Messrs. Wm. Paul and Son, of 
Waltham Cross. In colour it is soft pink, 
changing to carmine-rose, with a shading of 
yellow at the base of the petals. The most 
remarkable feature of the Rose is its large- 
sized individual blooms. These each 
measured fully 3 inches across. They have 
four to five rows of petals, and are produced 
in clusters of seven to nine, or more, so that 
this variety must prove a highly effective 
one. Another excellent trait which is 
possessed by most of the multiflora group 
is the blossoming right down to the base of 
the plants. As shown, the trusses of bloom 
are disposed very lightly and elegantly over 
the plant, a feature that will make this 
variety welcome. It will be a beautiful 
Rose for pillars ; also to grow as standards or 
single bushes. Another pretty novelty ex¬ 
hibited on the same occasion, and by the same 
firm, was Cora, flowers of a delightful shade of 
blush-pink, and produced in enormous trusses. 

A very, beautiful multiflora Rose was intro¬ 
duced a year or two ago as Cripison Rambler 
Non Plus Ultra. I am glad the words Crim¬ 
son Rambler are now dropped, so that we 
have it under the name of Non Plus Ultra. 
It is a remarkable colour—a sort of mulberry- 
crimson, a beautiful contrast to the majority 
of Ramblers, and one that may very advan¬ 
tageously be planted for the sake of its colour.. 
We seem to be a long way off obtaining a 
really yellow Rambler—I mean one that will 
blossom when the Crimson Rambler does. At 
present Aglaia, Electra, and Claire Jacquier 
flower before it. It is golden colours we want 
now. We have plenty of pinks, whites, and 
fcarlets, and I see no reason why we should 
not obtain ere long a good late-flowering 
golden Rambler. W. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Cool-house for forced Roses.— Where 
Roses are forced in any quantity it is an ex¬ 
cellent aid to their perfect development if a 
cooL-house be available wherein to put the 
plants when the flowers begin to show colour. 
This is more especially necessary where the 
thin button-hole Roses are grown, and with 
many sorts if the buds are just tied with a 
piece of wool they elongate considerably, 
which adds to their beauty for cutting. The 
best cool-house would be one on the north 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


































120 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


May 4, 1907 


side of a lean-to house, so that one may give 
the Boses light without the glaring sunlight. 
I have found pillar Roses of the Rambler type 
develop much more perfectly in such a house 
than in one where the sun was too powerful. 
Of course, all who exhibit Roses find it abso¬ 
lutely necessary to have a retarding-house, 
and it pays to have one, if only on a small 
scale.— Rosa. 


CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

NOTES ON CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 
Chrysanthemums grown for the production 
of large blooms for exhibition or for home 
decoration will now require a shift into pots 
51 inches in diameter. Circumstances must, 
however, guide the cultivator in this matter. 
Pots 0 inches in diameter (inside measure) 
are the best size in which to bloom Chrysan¬ 
themums ; where 10-inch or 11-inch ones are 
at hand, it is better to place two plants in 
each at the final potting than one, as by 
doing so a greater number of plants can be 
grown in but little space, and most varieties 
thus treated succeed better than when such 
large pots are used for single plants only. 
Where it is decided to place two plants in 
one pot, the weaker sorts should be selected 
for that purpose. Chrysanthemums should 
now be in cold-frames, and will, if due atten¬ 
tion has been paid to their requirements, be 
stocky and strong, and from 6 inches to 1 foot 
6 inches high, according to the variety. Some 
run up much quicker than others. 

When the pots in which they are now grow¬ 
ing are filled with roots, and before the plants 
get pot-bound, shift them into the sizes 
named, using the following compost—viz., 
two parts fibrous loam, one part leaf-soil, 
and one part spent Mushroom-bed materials, 
with a free admixture of sharp silver sand. 
If the loam be inclined to be heavy, add 
crushed charcoal freely, which keeps the 
whole porous ; ndd an 8-inch potful of finely- 
crushed bones and a 5-inch potful of soot to 
four bushels of soil. Heavy loam should be 
passed through a fine sieve, and only* the 
rougher parts retained, the fine particles be¬ 
ing liable to run together when much water 
is used daring summer. Where, however, the 
loam is sandy, no danger need be appre¬ 
hended. The pots should be perfectly clean 
when used; when dirty, the roots cling to 
their sides, and when the plants are turned 
out they get broken. Drain freely and care¬ 
fully, and ram the soil firmly around the 
plant. The day after potting water may be 
given ; replace the plants in the cold-frame, 
which should be kept somewhat close for a 
few days till the roots arc beginning to run 
into the new soil, then more air may be given. 
On fine warm days remove the lights alto¬ 
gether, and after a hot day syringe the plantc 
overhead ; never allow them to suffer from 
want of water, as that, results in the loss of the 
bottom leaves at an early stage, an evil which 
should be guarded against. Later in the year 
this does not matter ho much as some growers 
think ; still, as much as possible should be 
done to preserve the foliage as long as may 
be. 

Some few plants will now be breaking into 
three or four growths, and, presuming that 
they have not been stopped by pinching out 
the points of the sheets, three of these should 
he retained, if strong ; but, if weak, two only. 
On large bloomed sorts three flowers are 
enough, hut on smaller varieties four blooms 
on each plant may be allowed to develop. A^} 
regards this, however, cultivators must be 
guided by their own requirements. It should 
be remembered that the fewer the flowers the 
larger they are. and for exhibition, size is the 
first consideration. Allow the plants suffi¬ 
cient room in the frame; the foliage of one 
should never overlap that of the other. As 
soon as all danger from frost is over—say, 
about the middle of May -remove the plants 
to a sheltered position out-of-doors, placing 
them so that strong winds will not injure 
their—at this stage—somewhat tender foli¬ 
age, and towards the end of that month they 
will require their final shift into the pots in 
which they are to bloom, and be removed 
to the position which they are to occupy dur¬ 
ing the summer. 

Although Chro£anthemumfl dre^ hardy 

Digitized by VjUUgIC 


plants, they will not stand with impunity cold 
draughts, to which they are sometimes sub¬ 
jected—that is, before removal from the 
frames to their outside position. Cold east 
winds blowing across them turn their foliage 
yellow. This may be avoided by admitting 
air on the lee side. Yellowness of the leaves 
causes a certain cheek, and no plant resents 
sudden cheeks more than the Chrysanthe¬ 
mum. 


FERNS. 

THE BOSTON FERN (NEPHROLEPIS 
EXALTATA) AND ITS VARIETIES. 
That Ferns are variable, being subject to 
both bud variation, or sporting, and also to 
seedling variation, is no news to plant 
growers, but to all this may l>e added the 
fact that few, if any other, species of Fern 
have produced so many useful forms as 
Nephrolepis exaltata, a species that is found 
growing wild in many parts of the tropics, 
from southern Florida through Central 
America to Brazil. One of the earliest of the 
variations from Nephrolepis exaltata Bos- 
toniensis was also a Boston production, 
Nephrolepis Anna Foster, a variety with long 
and attenuated fronds, of fountain-like habit 
and graceful form, an attractive Fern when 
well grown, but liable to droop rather too 
much. This variety enjoyed a fleeting boom, 
but was really never in the same class with 
the original Boston Fern, and, after a few 
years, was but-little grown for trade pur¬ 
poses. At nearly the same time as N. Anna 
Foster was sent out, a striking variation with 
multiple tips to the pinnae was found. After 
being christened N. Piersoni, in honour of 
its introducer, F. R. Pierson, this variety was 
speedily disseminated, and has continued to 
be grown for a number of years past, though 
now somewhat eclipsed by its successors. 
Following N. Piersoni, and originating from 
the same establishment some years later, was 
an improvement on that variety, having 
broader frhnds and pinnae more subdivided, 
this later form being known as N. Piersoni 
'degaot.issima. a beautiful Fern, and one that 
is still largely grown. But the cut-leaved 
torms of N. exaltata were not the only aspi¬ 
rants for public favour, and some four or 
five years ago a dwarf and compact growing 
form of N. Bostoniensis originated with John 
Scott, of Brooklyn, N.Y., in whose honour the 
variety was given the name of N. Scotti. Both 
these varieties produced very long and rather 
coarse fronds, and were better adapted for 
large specimens than for the ordinary trade 
sizes, that known as Wittbold’s variety being 
apparently the most valuable, though neither 
of them attained the same popularity as some 
of the forms already mentioned. These varie¬ 
ties were also claimed to lie offspring of the 
Boston Fern, though it has been suggested 
that another species may have been the 
parent—namely, N. acuta. Within the past 
two or three years the great State of Massa¬ 
chusetts has again come to the front with 
Nephrolepis sports, the first within that period 
being known as N. Barrowsi, and a later and 
better variety having been labelled N. Whit¬ 
man i, H. H. Barrows, of Whitman, Mass., 
being responsible for both these fine Ferns, 
the first having been named in his honour, 
and the second to commemorate his dwelling- 
place, though, possibly, old-fashioned hntnn- 
ists would prefer the specific name, Whit- 
maniana, to the shorter title that has been 
adopted for the later introduction of this set. 
These varieties may be said to be of the Pier¬ 
soni class, but seem to fchow a further ad¬ 
vance in the greater subdivision of the pin¬ 
nules, Whitmani being shorter in the frond, 
broader, and more finely cut than Barrowsi, 
and, on the whole, a very beautiful Fern. 

Still another form of Nephrolepis exaltata 
in which the pinnro are multiplied and finely 
divided, and of somewhat similar character to 
N. Whitmani, is in preparation for distribu¬ 
tion from a western establishment next sea¬ 
son, the variety in question having been 
named N. Amerpohli. in honour of E. Amer- 
pohl, of Janesville, Wis., in whose establish¬ 
ment it originated. Several medium-sized 
specimens of this variety were exhibited at 
the last convention of the Society of Ameri- 
cau Florists, and excited much favourable 


comment from those who saw them, the fronds 
of this Fern being very finely cut and feathery 
in appearance, and at the first glance remind¬ 
ing one of the foliage of Todea superba. But 
all of these compound-leaved forms of Nephro¬ 
lepis are more or less liable to assume too 
drooping a habit of growth on account of the 
weight of their fronds, and it remains to be 
seen whether N. Amerpohli will prove to bo 
an exception to the rule. 

There was also exhibited some years ago 
at one of ‘the conventions of the National So¬ 
ciety (at Buffalo, I think) another compact 
growing, plain-leaved form of the Boston 
Fern from a firm in Denver, Col., but it did 
not appear to be a very distinct form, and 
evidently has Hot been boomed with the same 
ardour that has l>een applied to various later 
introductions. It has been suggested that 
high cultivation has something to do with the 
variability of certain plants, and it would 
seem that there may be some foundation for 
this contention when we review the results 
that have appeared since the Boston Fern has 
been submitted to such treatment.—W. H. 
Taplin, in American Gardening. 

[A very interesting and beautifully illus¬ 
trated article, showing the improvements 
effected in Nephrolepis exaltata during the 
past, few years. The finest form of ail the 
Nephrolepises is that known as N. exaltata 
todeaoides, which originated with Messrs. 
Rochford and Sons, of Broxbourne, and which 
we notice is well figured in '/'hr. Florists* 
Exchange of March 23rd, page 410.— Editor 
“G.I.”j 


ORCHIDS. 

C YMBIDIUM WIG A M A NU M. 

This hybrid, which by mistake was figured in 
our issue of April 13th (page 89), under the 
name of C. Sanderi, flowered in Messrs. Hugh 
Low and Co.’s nurseries at Bush Hill Park, 
Enfield, and was exhibited by them at the 
Royal Horticultural Society’s meeting on 
February 13th. C. Wiganianum is a cross 
between C. eburneum and C. Tracyanum, 
and was originally introduced by Mr. W. H. 
Young when Orchid grower to the late Sir 
F. W. Wigan, and was shown by him at the 
R. H. S. meeting on November 10th, 1903, 
when it received an award of merit from the 
Orchid Committee. The flowers are as large 
as those of C. Tracyanum, and with a distinct 
resemblance to that speciee in the large hairy 
labellum. The flowers are cream-white, 
dotted with slight lines of purple on the 
sepals and petals, and with heavier red-brown 
markings on the lip. This fine hybrid well 
deserves a place even in the most select col¬ 
lection of Orchids. 

As regards culture the plant, requires, a 
moist, shady position in the intermediate 
house, although during the summer months 
it will thrive equally well in a similar posi¬ 
tion in the Odontoglossmn house. Any speci¬ 
men that has become pot-bound may be re¬ 
potted at the present time, and those which 
require top-dressing with fresh rooting 
material should also be attended to. C. 
Wiganiammi. likewise its parents, also its 
cogeneric species and hybrids, require rather 
larger pots than most. Orchids. The put 
should be about one-fourth filled with crocks, 
and over these place a thin layer of turfv 
loam, with most of the fine particles shaken 
from it. This will prevent clogging of the 
drainage. The plant should be potted—not 
too firmly—in a compost consisting of one- 
half good fibrous loam, the remainder being 
equal parts of pent, and leaf soil, with a liberal 
quantity of small crocks and coarse silver 
sand. In repotting, space below the rim of 
the pot must be sufficient to allow of thor¬ 
oughly watering the plants when they become 
established, and all through the growing 
season abundance of water is necessary, espe¬ 
cially to strong, well-rooted plants. When 
grown cool and shady, with plenty of air ad 
mitted to them wherever practicable, and an 
abundance of atmospheric moisture main¬ 
tained between the pots, etc., insect pests 
rarely trouble Cymbidiums, and when well 
rooted in the compost the plants will grow 
fast and strong, flowdr well, and produce fresh 
luxuriant foliage. W. H. W. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



May 4 , 1907 


GARDENING ILL VSTRATED. 


121 



OUTDOOR PLANT8. 


the Mustard-and-Crees principle, and allowed cutting as the subject now under considera¬ 
te stifle and destroy each other, a neglect too I tion. So useful, and, indeed, valuable are 
THE ANNUAL CHRYSANTHEMUMS i ?/ teQ permitted because of the smallness of they, that beds of them might well occupy the 
Aifnvn t _ , * the seedlings, and the trouble of thinning in I most prominent positions in the garden. 

wy and easily-grown annuals I time—and that other set, larger-seeded and I Sunny borders or beds can scarcely be better 

occupied during the summer months, 
while the herbaceous border, or the 
shrubbery border, when the latter is 
not too shaded, may each have its 
complement of such* good things as 
these Chrysanthemums. All the 
varieties may be sown in the open 
ground in March or April, and in 
favoured localities seeds may be sown 
again in autumn for producing t ho 
earliest display in the spring garden 
and iii other ways. Some kinds, the 
varieties of C. coronarium more par¬ 
ticularly, possess considerable merit 
when grown in pots, and the sturdy 
•bushes of some 15 inches in height 
are very attractive when in full 
bloom. The cultivation of the plants 
is very simple ; but it is well to bear 
in mind that very rich soils only tend 
to grossness of' growth with, as a 
rule, a considerable loss of flowers, 
and for this reason no manure need 
be added to soil that is well dug and 
in good condition. The plants, too, 
are invariably a success in poor and 
stony soils, and those readers of 
Gardening having such soils should 
remember these showy subjects. In 
those instances where it is desired to 
fill a bed when the spring bulbs have 
finished their flowering, some seed¬ 
lings may be raised thinly in a re¬ 
serve plot of ground, and trans¬ 
planted to the positions in which they 
have to flower later on. The plants 
should l»e placed about 9 inches 
apart. Early thinning is highly de¬ 
sirable if the best results are desired, 
and no two plants should have less 
than 8 inches between them. 

Varieties. The following are the 
most important members of this 
family: — 

C. CARINATUM (syn. C. tricolor).— 

A species belonging to North Africa, 
and growing about 15 inches in 
height, is a very beautiful, yet vari¬ 
able, plant, and there are many varie¬ 
ties of it. The most distinct are C. 
c. album, white; C. c. atrococ- 
cineum, rich scarlet; C. c. Burridge- 
anum, a very showy tricolor flower, 
the blossoms banded with white, 
crimson, and yellow. A very hand¬ 
some hybrid form, having C. cari- 
natum and C. segetum for its parents, 
is C. Morning Star (see illustration). 
This beautiful variety has large Mar¬ 
guerite-like blossoms, each 3 inches 
or more across, and coloured a soft 
yellow—ashRde more frequently seen 
in the choicer Narcissi. C. Evening 
Star is a deep golden-yellow sport 
from the last named, which it equals 
iu 6ize. These varieties reach 
18 inches to 124 inches in height, and 
are of the highest value as garden 
plants or for cutting. 

C. CORONARIUM. -The varieties of 
til is set constitute a very beautiful 
race, being vigorous in growth, free- 
flowering, hardy, and desirable as 
garden plants iu town or country. 
The flowers, moreover, are of much 
value in the cut state. By no means 
the least of the many good attributes 
of this group is their value when 
grown in pots, and in the early 
months of the year the plants find a 
ready sale in the leading markets. 
The plants vary from 1 foot to 3 feet 
high, and there are perfectly double 
forms and others that have quite 
single flowers. The double white and 
double yellow-flowered varieties are, 
we think, the best, though the single, 
white (Princess May), with creamy 
so much bolder in growth, even in a young blossoms and primrose centre, attracted our 
state, that timely thinning may be done with attention in the seed trials of Messrs, 
very little trouble. We do not recall any Sutton at. [Summer. Among 

group of flowering annuals at the moment the varieties "known as C. Dunetti are 
that can be so easily grown or so useful for toQftt; ''/<&RS E°ll&INQf5 ^^ple. 


Annual Chrysanthemum Morning Star. 


the several species of the annual Chrysan¬ 
themums, with their cross-bred forms and 
varieties, are worthy of notice at the present 
time There are, of couree. annuals and 

* 0Da “ ls ^?|?edby ° n 


URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 















123 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Ma v 4. 1907 


scarlet, etc., all in double flowers. In 
short, it is hardly possible to over-estimate 
the value of the many varieties that appear 
under the last two*named species, while those 
last named are of much value and last well 
when cut. Again, by sowing at intervals from 
March to the end of May a succession of blos¬ 
soms may be obtained. From April onwards 
the seeds may be sown in the open ground, 
but for earlier work plants may be raised in 
a frame in early March. In all cases a good 
open sunny position should be selected for 
the plants. , 

C. INODORUM PLENissiMUM, which attains 
about 18 inches high, has double, pure white 
flowers. 

C. 8EOETUM (Corn Marigold) a native 
species, frequent in cornfields and other 
places, is one of the brightest of native 
flowers. Of this species C. s. gvandiflorum 
is a good variety, bright yellow, nnd»very at¬ 
tractive when cut or in the garden. 

E. H. Jenkins. 


SPRING FLOWERS FROM THE SCILLY 
ISLANDS. 

Tub export of cut flowers from the Soilly 
Islands has this year been very large, and, 
for the season, will certainly exceed all 
previous records. The unusually cold weather 
in January retarded the crop considerably, 
but, fortunately for the island flower growers, 
their competitors in the Riviera and else¬ 
where experienced worse weather still; and 
so, although their exports for January and 
February were only 197 tons, as compared 
with 414 tons despatched to the different 
markets during the same period last year, 
flowers were still scarcer from elsewhere, and 
the prices realised were much more satisfac 
tory. The cold weather of the early season, 
however, did no damage whatever, and the 
exceptionally fine, weather in March caused 
the blooms to develop in their full beauty un¬ 
damaged by gales or excessive wet weather; 
and about 100.000 boxes, weighing 522 tons, 
were sent in the month from these small 
islands to London and the other large Eng¬ 
lish, Scotch, and Irish markets, as compared 
with 294 tons sent in March last year. 

Although flowers continue to be exported 
from the islands until the end of June, the 
later varieties are not cultivated in very large 
quantities ; and last year by the end of March 
the early Daffodils and Narcissi had practi¬ 
cally all been gathered, and, Easter being 
late, visitors to the islands were not able to 
see more than a few of the later varieties 
scattered here and there in the fields. This 
year, however, they have not only been 
favoured with glorious sunshine, but they find 
the fields and the Escallonia and Veronica 
sheltered flower patches bright with the white 
and yellow' blooms of the Emperor and Em¬ 
press, ornatus, Barri conspicuus, and many 
other varieties. 

The flower industry is now the principal 
one in the islands, and, the acreage being very 
limited, the cultivation of early vegetables 
and Potatoes has fallen off considerably, al¬ 
most all the suitable ground being devoted to 
the flower bulbs. The growth of this indus¬ 
try has been very considerable, and although, 
thirty years ago, it commenced in a small 
way, in 1887 the total export was only about 
100 tons, whereas last year it exceeded 800 
tons. It is not improbable that this year 
it will amount to a total of 1,000 tons, which, 
representing as it does about 100,000,000 
blooms distributed over the large towns of 
the kingdom, must, in addition to lending an 
extra charm to the scenery of these beautiful 
islands, brighten many houses in our crowded 
cities which would otherwise have no breath 
of early spring, and it is to be hoped that the 
industry will continue to increase and be 
profitable .—The Times. 

NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Crown Imperial not flowering.—I should he 
much obliged if you could tell me the reason why my 
Crown Imperials do not flower? I had them in a hod 
on the lawn, where they could get plenty of sun. The 
soil is good loam, and they have been well manured. 
They were left there for about four or five years, 
and never flowered till last year, and then two or 
three very small blooms came on one of them: but 
the other two had none. Last autumn I trans¬ 
planted them to a bord<?> with a background of 
Laurel, which protect! then Ih) [east wind, 


and here again they had good soil (inclined to be 
gravelly, having been made on an old footpath) and 
plenty of manure; but only one is showing signs of 
flowering, though all look healthy, grow fast, and send 
up young ones. Is the soil too heavy or too damp, 
do you think, or too rich? Do they require sand? 
Should the young ones be removed in the autumn?— 
Mavis. 

[These bulbs cannot in all classes of soils 
be relied upon for flowering regularly, and 
none but the largest bulbs are at any time 
disposed to bloom. The plants prefer a light 
well-drained loam, and in cold and poorly- 
drained soils progress is very slow. If, there¬ 
fore, your soil is retentive and moisture-hold¬ 
ing, it should be worked to 2 feet deep, add¬ 
ing road-grit or sand to render it more 
porous. The bulbs prefer to be deeply plan¬ 
ted, and a depth of 6 inches is not too much. 
Plenty of manure should be worked into the 
soil at a safe distance—say, 6 inches—below 
the planting level of the bulbs. You say you 
transplanted the bulbs last autumn, but, if 
root-growth had then begun, the check to 
growth would be quite sufficient to account 
for non-flowering or a poor flowering, even 
in the case of large bulbs. The plant# dis¬ 
like disturbance, and, unlike many bulbous 
things, are not improved by drying off. We 
advise replanting in July next, digging the 
ground deeply and generally giving them a 
liberal treatment. Employ sand freely about 
the bulbs, which should be planted in a warm, 
sunny spot. A bulb must be large to flower 
well.— E. J.] 

Leaving Tulips in the ground.— Can I leave 
Tulips, especially the May-flowering kinds, in the 
ground without lifting and drying off?—B ristol. 

[We cannot recommend you to leave the 
Tulips permanently in the soil with any hope 
of success beyond the first year, though a few 
may be good in the second year. A thin 
covering of the spring-flowering plants you 
mention could be planted over tbe bulbs.] 
Crocuses — Growers offer four different sizes of 
yellow Crocus. 1 bought some of the smallest size, 
thinking they would increase in size and improve 
every year. The flowers in 1906 were flue, and in 1907 
they had increased threefold, but I find the bulbs, or 
corms, are all exactly the same as at first, the original 
corms not having increased in size at all. Can you 
tell me how the growers obtain corms of the largest 
size?—D ale Croft. 

[The large Crocus-corms are obtained by 
special cultivation and selection from very 
large stocks. These things develop most 
plentifully in free soils, and such as are open, 
sandy, and porous.] 

Treatment of bulbs planted In borders —I I 

have many all-the-year-round mixed borders and 
beds, in which I have planted clumps of twelve or 
twenty-five bulbs alternately with Rose-trees (dwarf) 
and hardy perennials, but no manure of any kind has 
been placed near the bulbs. Planted in winter, 1905, 
the bulbs flowered splendidly in spring of 1906, and 
the bulbs were left in the ground and foliage allowed 
to die down naturally, a few dwarf Nasturtiums 
being sown over them. This spring all the clumps 
had increased twofold and threefold, and some varie¬ 
ties—viz., Sir Wat kin. Emperor, Barrt conspicuus, 
Empress, and Horsfleldi, also the Van Sion double 
Daffodils—flowered as well as the first year. Chimps 
of twelve bulbs planted in 1905 gave twenty-four, 
thirty, and thirty-six large flowers: but the following 
varieties: Princeps, incomparabilis (single). Golden 
Spur,Ard Righ, and the doubles albus-picnus, aurantius 
(Orange Phoenix), Golden Phoenix, although the Gruss 
is growing strongly and the bulbs have increased 
largely, have almost entirely failed to flower, and the 
flowers of the double varieties are smaller and in 
some cases deformed. As all the varieties planted 
were recommended by growers for naturalisation and 
for growing in Grass, I cannot understand why these 
varieties failed to flower. I may mention that my 
soil is a strong sandy loam, with marl and stone-brash 
subsoil, and even in the hottest summer is never dry 
6 inches below the surface, if surface is kept hoed. 
In such a soil is it possible the bulbs do not rest, 
and continue to send out roots? On lifting some 
Van Sion bulbs in August, I found roots gone 
and bulbs hard and plump. As I intend planting 
largely next autumn, I shall be glad to have your 
advice as to best treatment to adopt? I do not 
want to have to lift bulbs and replant later.— Dale 
Croft. 

[We note the success of some and the non¬ 
success of other bulbs, and find what is very 
natural—that all the strong-growing types of 
Narcissus are in the successes and the weaker 
growing and more delicate rooting are among 
the failures. From your continued observa¬ 
tions it is clear that some of the latter set 
have deteriorated considerably. In some 
soils and districts Ard Righ, Golden Spur, 
and the double forms of incomparabilis are 
only satisfactory when lifted and replanted 
each year. The fact that all the varieties 
were recommended for naturalisation does 
not count for much, and there is no end of 
surprises that have never been dreamed of in 
this great family of Daffodils, ppy advice, 


therefore, is that you specialise in those 
varieties which experience has shown to be 
the best. For example, we would not plant 
Ard Righ or Golden Spur in Grass or in 
borders permanently and expect succese, 
although in a few instances the varieties may 
for a time succeed. Some of the.kinds named 
lose all their root fibres each year, and these 
are benefited by absolute rest for a time. 
Other kinds and those possessing a tendency 
towards perpetual rooting are much better 
left alone. Yet, even here, no one rule can 
apply absolutely, seeing how varying circum¬ 
stances of soil, position, and other things 
affect and influence the bulbs. For example, 
we have planted Narcissus princeps with a 
dozen other sorts in a soil overlying chalk, 
and it failed absolutely by the hundred ; yet 
in another garden, with the same soil forma¬ 
tion, the same kind succeeds perfectly. In 
the soil you describe we should expect to find 
all the poeticus kinds, save angustifolius 
and poetarum thrive well; also Leedsi and 
Burbidgei vars., with Queen of Spain, maxi- 
mus— this should be planted 6 inches deep— 
and others. There are many reasons for the 
bulbs failing to flower, and, if not of good 
size when first planted, and in soil uncon¬ 
genial as well, no good flowering bulb would 
afterwards be built up. In such a case, and 
where breeder or mother bulbs are formed, 
the non-flowering would, of necessity, con¬ 
tinue for several seasons, and nothing short 
of lifting, dividing, and replanting would give 
happier results. In these instances the 
weakly foliage should guide you to some ex¬ 
tent, and where this is marked a more per¬ 
fectly free drainage should be insured to the 
bulbs.] 

Chionodoxas -Mine, planted in November, 1906, 
did not flower tilt mid-March, long after Snowdrops 
were over. How deeply should these be planted to 
ensure early flowers?—S andford. 

[November was late for planting the Chio¬ 
nodoxas, and only rarely do these flower with 
the Snowdrop. The same applies to the 
Siberian Squill. In certain instances the 
flowering of two kinds of bulbs may be regu¬ 
lated by planting, and very early planted 
double Daffodils or established bulbs would 
flower at much about the same time as the 
Scilla planted in October. The varying sea¬ 
sons may create a difference here.] 

Daffodils In Orass Will you tell me the best 
Daffodils to plant in Grass for permanent show, both 
trumpet and short-cupped varieties? In 1905 1 
planted in Grass, among shrubs, N. princeps, N. in¬ 
comparabilis Cynosure, and N. i. Stella. Cynosure 
and Stella have done well, and both are this year 
very good. N. princeps last year did well, but this 
year is a failure. Is princeps not good in Grass? 
Last year I planted Emperor, Empress, Horsfleldi, 
and Barri conspicuus. Will these do well in Grass 
another year? They are beautiful just now. Can 
you tell me a deeper yellow trumpet than Emperor? 
Is Golden Spur a good one? I do not want too 
expensive kinds.— DUMFRIES. 

[N. princeps is first-rate in Grass. We 
have thousands of it in flower in Grass and in 
all sorts of conditions—even in the hedgerows. 
The two you name do admirably in Grass, 
and flower on from year to year for many 
years. You do not state the nature of your 
soil. With very dry soil you may expect 
failures. Henry Irving would suit you well, 
and Golden Spur does very well in Grass.— 
Ed.] 

Pergola No. VII.— In describing this in 
Gardening Illustrated for April 20th, 
page 99, we omitted to state that it is erected 
in the Crematorium at Golder’s Green, just 
beyond Hampstead Heath, a place to which 
anyone interested in such things can have 
easy access. It has only been planted this 
year, and the best effects of the Vines anti 
other climbers cannot be seen until after a 
year or two’s growth. 

Campanula*.— There arc few gardens where 
Campanulas will not succeed. At this time of the 
year, when attention is being paid to subjects for 
window-boxes and hanging-baskets, one thinks of the 
trailing sorts of which isophylla and its white counter¬ 
part are so popular. After all. it is. perhaps, in the 
flower-borders that Campanulas are most prized. 
There we see to what good use they may be put 
for back-row plants, and prominent amongst the 
number of very serviceable sorts stands the old Peach¬ 
leaved Bellflower, C.persicifolia. It is an old and tried 
sort, giving much bloom in July, and, except for 
dividing the roots occasionally, needing little atten¬ 
tion beyond staking and tying up. Now is the time 
to sow seed in a cold-frame, as from a sowing now, 
plants for blooming another year will be the outcome. 
They are very easily raised, and only want pricking 
out once before being placed in their final quarters.— 

11 iLLinuij mi 



May 4, 1007 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


123 




NARCISSUS COUNT VISCONTI. 

This is a large form of N. Johnstoni, and a 
clear pale yellow flower of peculiarly grace¬ 
ful outline, the trumpet of exquisite waxen 
texture, and a shade brigher in colour than 
the perianth. This Narcissus combines form, 


Flower of Narcissus Count Visconti. 


grace, and substance in a very high degree. 
It gained an award of merit from the Royal 
Horticultural Society, and at the great Mid¬ 
land show of Daffodils, when exhibited by 
Miss Willmott in the spring of 1904. 


Heldreich’s Crape Hyacinth (Muscari Held- 
reiehi).— Among the host of Grape Hyacinths 
one of the earliest and also one of the most 
distinct is Muscari Heklreichi, whose flowers 
are individually larger than those of the 
majority, while the spike is fairly large, 
of the others. It is comparatively broad, 
although not so shapely as that of some, 
and blunt in its form. On the other 
hand, the individual flowers are large, 
and of a very beautiful bright sky-blue, 
the margins being broadly coloured with 
white, the whole forming a pleasant con¬ 
trast, which gives a particularly bright 
and cheery appearance to the flowers. 

Then the individual flowers stand out 
well from each other, and are not so 
closely set as those of some other Grape 
Hyacinths, so that they remind one even 
more than others of the name of Grape 
Hyacinth, with their more Grape-like 
bunches. This Muscari is now more 
plentiful than it was at one time, and 
there is no reason why it should not be 
in many more gardens than at present. 

It requires no special soil, but thrives 
splendidly in a good, free loam, and 
gives larger spikes and flowers than in a 
more sandy medium.—S. A. 

Mulching the hardy flower border. 

—It must be admitted that the mulch¬ 
ing of a flower border does not improve 
its appearance, hut when it is remem¬ 
bered how it helps hardy flowering 
plants, should the summer prove a drv 
one, then it is worth while to do it. It 
ought not, however, to be left until the 
hot weather comes l>efore getting on 
with the work, and no better time can 
be selected than the present. Farm¬ 
yard-manure or horse droppings which 
have stood some months is tin* best to 


should prove dry, then it follows that it will 
do much to conserve moisture.— Townsman. 
Overcrowding and its results.— It has 

been said in reference to a certain article 
used in nearly every household that the pro¬ 
fits aw derived, not so much from what 
people use, as from what is wasted. The 
same remarks hold good to a very 
large extent in regard to seeds. 
To sow thickly is, with very few 
exceptions, a great mistake, and 
only results in overcrowding from 
v the first, nnd necessitates thinning 
J out, if the plants are to be any¬ 
thing like satisfactory. It is not 
in seed-sowing alone that one is 
liable to make mistakes. Good- 
sized specimens, carrying fine 
flowers, can only be produced 
when, amongst other things, there 
is sufficient room left. In annuals 
we see the mistake in sowing 
Sweet Peas three times too 
thickly, and fail to realise when 
putting in the small seeds what 
great bushes they make if only 
given the requisite amount of 
room. It is sometimes an advan¬ 
tage to commence thinning 
annuals when they have made 
their second leaf, and so give the 
remainder a better chance.— 
WOODBASTWICK. 

Hardening off Sweet Peas 
raised in pots.— Those who in¬ 
tend planting their Sweet Peas in 
their flowering quarters outdoors 
in late April should now be 
hardening off their plants. Tho 
plants should l>e arranged in the 
cold frames, and air admitted freely on every 
favourable occasion. All through the Easter 
holidays, when the weather was so abnormally 
warm, my frames were left open during the 
day, and only closed again in the evening. As 
a consequence of this treatment tho Sweet 
Peas are now looking much better than usual, 
the growth is sturdier, and of a better char¬ 
acter, than I have observed for somo years 
past. The more forward plants require the 
support of short spriggv stakes, and these 
should be placed in position before the plants 


in warm glass structures are not sufficiently 
hardened off previous to planting outdoors, 
and, as a consequence, they suffer severely 
should the weather be cold, or cutting winds 
prevail.—D. B. Crane. 

The Crimean Iris (I. pumila) is one of the most 
i delightful spring flowerB we have. The flowers vary in 
i colour from almost white and pale yellow to rich 
purple. Coming into bloom as they do several weeks 
before the various forms of Flag Iris, they give a 
tine bit of colour in May. Their dwarf stature renders 
them suitable for rock-work, and although they aro 
by no means fastidious as regards soil, they do best 
where the drainage is free.— J. Cor.nhill, Byflect. 

Soil for the Crown Imperial (Fred).— Tim 
( Crown Imperial (Fritillaria impcnalis) generally grows 
I and flowerB best in a rich, deep, loamy soil, nnd when 
j the bulbs are allowed to bo undisturbed for years. 
A good position for it in the garden is on the edge of 
a group of American plants or in a shrubbery border. 


HEPATICAS. 


Amongst the delightful hardy, early spring 
flowers these are deservedly held in high es- 
| teem. They are of easy culture, thriving well 
in any garden having a deep, moist, and 
rather rich soil. The depth of the soil is a 
matter of some importanco to the well being 
j of the plants in question, because they are 
i naturally inclined to send down their roots 
to a considerable distance. Therefore, many 
failures in their culture may be traced to the 
I fact of their being planted in a shallow and, 
consequently, a generally-speaking, dry and 
hot soil. They are never affected by the 
hardest frost. The best way to increase 
Hepaticas is by division of the roots, and the 
1 K*st time to do this is immediately after they 
have ceased flowering. They should not lie 
parted oftener than once in three years. It 
| is always a good plan to have plenty of young 
| stock coming on in a reserve garden. 

Seed may be sown as soon as ripe, but it 
will not germinate until the following spring. 
A compost of turfv loam, Cocoa-nut-fibre, 
and sharp sand answers well, and the seed 
should be sown in pans placed in a cool- 
framo or greenhouse, keeping the soil just 
moist. They must lie shaded from the sun, 
and thus prevent the necessity of frequent 
waterings. Well-established plants in 6 inch 
or 7-inch pots bloom freely in spring in a 
cool-house, and, as they are thus preserved 


use. and this should be spread over the 
surface, first taking away as much of 
the strawy material as possible. A 
thin coating of soil on the top will at least 
give an air of neatness, and do away with any 
objections that may be raised. To mulch 
now—especially such things as Pyrethrums, 
Irises, Campanulas, Phloxes—will do much to 
ensure beautiful blossoms*, and if tbolseaBon 

VjO 5ic 


The large blue liepalica (Anemone (Hcpatiea) anguloaa), 


begin to fall over. There is no better material , from frost and rain, the flowers retain their 
for staking than the seared growths of the beauty for a long time unimpaired. The 
Michaelmas Daisies. I always reserve a best kinds are single white, blue, and red, 
number of plants for this purpose, selecting the double red, and blue, and the well-known 
some of the less stout growing kinds. Too blue angulosa, flowers of which we figure 
frequently Sweet Peas that have been raised to-dty|j SITY OF ILLIN Eepatica. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 





124 


GAUD Em MG ILLUSTRATED. 


May 4. 1907 


INDOOR PLANTS. 

VIOLETS IN FRAMES. 


mould mixed with it. Fresh air, too, is a 
necessity, and no forcing must be attempted, 
as a close, stuffy atmosphere is fatal. 

W. S. 


At the present time the aim df the groover 
must be directed to the preparation of the 
runners and planting them in the open. The 
soil ought to be well prepared by deep dig¬ 
ging, adding decayed manure, with only a 
fairly liberal hand. Some leaf-mould, and a 
little burnt refuse, too, I find ara very bene¬ 
ficial. Assuming that the frame-grown plants 
are healthy and free from red-spider, they are 
dug up, the soil shaken from the roots, and 
the runners which nestle round the root stem 
separated singly with all the available root 
fibres possible. Care should be taken that 
they are not exposed to hot drying sun and 
winds, for if they are so exposed they will 
suffer considerably. I always give a surfacing 
of pure leaf-mould to the frame-grown Violet 
beds in mid-winter, so that the stock runners 
have some inducement to become freely 
rooted. Had I no leaf-mould, then Cocoa-fibre 
would be as good, perhaps better. For the 
double Violets which have to be lifted in 
autumn I always choose an open site, avoid¬ 
ing borders which are open to the heat of the 
midday sun, for the tendency of such warm 
borders is to invite red-spider attacks. The 
double Violet cannot be too generously 
treated. An excess of rich manure certainly 
is not advocated, for the plant built up on 
this basis will not stand the vicissitudes of 
winter. What is wanted is a sturdy leaf 
growth and a well developed crown. Water¬ 
ing if the weather is dry is all important. 
Mulching the surface with short manure re¬ 
duces excessive radiation, keeps the soil cool, 
and is in every sense a highly desirable prac- 
tice. It may not be so necessary in heavy 
soils, but in this case material which will 
render them porous, such as decayed horse- 
manure, finely sifted house-ashes, leaf-mould, 
and burnt refuse should be added. Only 
horse-manure should be employed on heavy 
land, as the tendency of cow and pig-manures 
is to render it still more close and heavy. 
Soils of a light nature should receive this 
surface mulching early in the season, then 
red-spider may by an occasional watering be 
kept at bay. I do not observe any difference 
in the constitution of the several varieties of 
frame Violets. Marie Louise, though an old, 
is, nevertheless, still a good and indispensable 
kind. New York is very similar ; De Parma 
is the palest of the doubles, though Lady 
Hume Campbell has but a little deeper shade. 
Mrs. J. J. Astor, of a heliotrope tone of 
colour, is very distinct, and a favourite with 
most persons. The double white Violets are 
spring, rather than winter, bloomers, and 
seem to be more fickle than the blue, for in 
some gardens they revel under any conditions 
of culture, while in other places they are by 
no means bountiful in their flower production. 

When lifting for the frames in autumn 
much care must be exercised in the choice of 
soil for planting in. It may not be necessary 
to use maiden loam, but it is essential that 
it should be fresh and sweet. Manure mixed 
with the soil is not advised for autumn plant¬ 
ing. If the plants have done well in their 
summer quarters then some of the same soil 
can well be used in the frames. In any case, 
fill the pits or frames so that the plants are 
well raised to the glass. 

Though not strictly essential there is some¬ 
times a marked gain in the change of stock, 
which is best done in the spring by the pur¬ 
chase of rooted runners ready for immediate 
planting. In the case of the small grower 
it is better to adhere to one kind than to at¬ 
tempt to grow several. 

During the summer all runners as they form 
should be removed; large, spreading plants 
with clustered runners may appear desirable 
to the novice, but they certainly do not appeal 
to the practical man. The better plan is to 
concentrate the whole effort of the plant on 
one central crown, then there will be a re¬ 
serve of vigour for the production of hand¬ 
some blooms in winter. Do not be persuaded 
to encourage sappy leaf growth by feeding 
with stimulants in winter. Violets do not 
need such stimulants. What is more con¬ 
genial is fresh eweet. 


t/scrH. and a litlle leaf- 

Go gle 


NOTES AND REPLIES . 

The Gold Mohur-tree (Poinciana regia).—Having 
received from Burmah some seeds of the Gold Mohur- 
tree or Flame of the Forest, I should be obliged if 
you would enlighten me as to its cultivation? It 
probably requires u stove? It is stated that the pods 
are 3 teet in length, and are used in beating carpets 
and native servants.—A. Stewart, SuundeTsjoot, 
Wales. 

[The botanic name of the “ Gold Mohur- 
tree ” is Poinciana regia, a well-known tree in 
the tropics, where it is justly valued for it6 
gorgeous blossoms. It is also popularly 
known as the Royal Peacock Flower. Nichol¬ 
son, in the “ Dictionary of Gardening,” gives 
the length of the pods as 4 inches, not 3 feet. 
In this country the plant requires the tem¬ 
perature of a stove, but then it will be neces¬ 
sary to attain a considerable size before 
flowering. We were recently shown a very 
fine raceme of blossoms, but could not learn 
under what conditions they had been pro¬ 
duced. As it reaches a height of 30 feet to 
40 feet in the tropics, a lofty structure will, 
of course, be necessary for its development. 
The seeds are hard, and will germinate more 
quickly if previous to sowing they are soaked 
for 24 hours in water at a temperature of 
100 degs. to 110 degs. Then they must be at 
once sown in a mixture of loam, peat, and 
sand, and if watered and plunged in a gentle 
bottom-heat in the stove should soon start. 
When potted off, the same kind of soil is neces¬ 
sary. As the plants get larger they are far 
more likely to flower if grown exposed to the 
sun than they are if shaded.] 

Feeding Gloxinias.— Will you please tell me 
what chemical manure to use for Gloxinias, and 
quantity per quart?—G. R. Wood. 

[Only when the pots are well filled with 
roots is it advisable to give any rich food. 
The best for Gloxinias is, we find, liquid- 
manure, made from cow-dung steeped in a 
barrel with a bag of soot suspended in the 
barrel. Give this twice a week, very weak - 
i.e., about the colour of pale ale.] 
Cyclamens-potting off. -Now that the 
days are lengthening, many will be potting 
their autumn-sown stock of these into small 
pots. Some are under the impression the 
corns should be raised above the level of the 
soil, some going so far as to raise them on a 
mound. This is most unwise. Plants treated 
thus are often much reduced in vigour from 
being so placed. The idea is that they will 
damp off if potted otherwise. When potting, 
the crown of the corm should be just covered. 
In this way the corms arc kept moist, they 
swell more rapidly, and the plants and 
blooms are finer. During the autumn I had 
some corms in this raised condition. On 
examining them I found the young white 
roots striving to reach the soil. When I put 
some short Moss over the soil and up round 
the bulb, to keep it moist, I observed the 
bulbs had in a short time made a network of 
young roots into the soil, which had the 
effect of immensely improving the foliage. 
Few winier-flowering plants arc so attractive 
and useful as good Cyclamens. It is a mis¬ 
take to think their leaf-stems will not bear 
coming into contact with the soil. Many 
have the same idea when potting Primula 
sinensis. They raise the plants, putting pegs 
to steady them. This is a fallacy. I am 
aware in both instances the foliage will damp 
off if the temperature is kept low and the 
atmosphere in a stagnant condition. I once 
tried placing a bulb of Cyclamen 3 inches 
under ground in a cold-house. It came up 
and bloomed well for many years.—J. C. F. 

Kalanchoe Dyeri. —Among the uncommon 
plants shown at the meeting of the Royal 
Horticultural Society on February 12th, was 
this Kalanchoe, which attracted a good deal 
of attention, and was by the floral commit¬ 
tee given an award of merit. It is one of the 
many species of this genus which the opening 
up of Africa has given us, for it is a native 
of Nyassaland, and was first sent to Kew in 
1902. Compared with some of the other 
kinds, K. Dyeri is a large grower, as it will 
reach a height of a yard or thereabouts, the 
sturdy, upright stem being clothed with oppo¬ 


sitely-arranged broadly ovate leaves, quite 
6 inches in length, and of a succulent char¬ 
acter. The flowers, borne in large terminal 
heads, are, individually, a good deal like 
those of a Jasmine or Bouvardia, but are 
over an inch across. From its winter-flower¬ 
ing qualities this Kalanchoe is particularly 
valuable, for it adds quite a new feature to 
the warm greenhouse at that season. Ten 
years ago the Kalanchoes were practically 
unknown in gardens, the first to attract 
general attention being K. flammea, an im¬ 
portation from Somaliland, which, when 
about 18 inches high, bears large, flattened 
heads of flowers, suggesting those of a Bou¬ 
vardia, but of a bright orange-scarlet colour. 
This blooms in the summer. By crossing 
this at Kew with the white-flowered K. Benti, 
K. kewensis, wjth very pretty rose-pink 
flowers, was raised. These Kalanchoes thrive 
if potted in a compost mainly consisting of 
loam, leaf-mould, and sand, and placed in a 
good light position in the warm greenhouse. 
Care must be taken not to overwater them 
during the winter.—X. 

Fancy Pelargoniums.— One seldom meets 
with large collections of these very beautiful 
flowering plants nowadays, an odd plant or two 
in a house being generally all that one finds. 
To what may we ascribe this? Possibly it may 
be due to the plants themselves being an easy 
prey to green-fly and red-spider. I remember 
visiting some thirty years ago a greenhouse of 
a friend who made a specialty of them, but 
he kept them to themselves in one house, and 
beyond keeping frost out of the house used 
very little artificial heat indeed, and it was 
no doubt, due to this that he had 6uch splen¬ 
did results. For the most part, I am inclined 
to think that those who grow them now coddle 
them too much, aud forget that to have strong 
robust plants they must be grown in a cool- 
house where air is admitted whenever the 
w'eather is favourable. Very few are grown 
for market to what was once the ease, and yet 
there are few showier subjects in early 
summer. It is a matter for regret, too, that 
societies are offering little inducement to grow 
them, as from the schedules of some they are 
entirely omitted.— Townsman. 

Pillar plants for the greenhouse -Sometimes 
it is found desirable to cover or hide an obtrusive 
pillar or post in a house, and no better way ran be 
found than in making use of a fine foliaged or flower¬ 
ing plant. Among the former we think of such use¬ 
ful things as Asparaguses, of which plumosus is well 
known, and of flowering plants there are the Cle¬ 
matises and Roses, while Heliotropes and Fuchsias 
may also be used. Swainsonias and Lapagerias, too, 
may be grown in this way.—F. W. I). 


Incarvillea Delavavi.— I have for several years 
sown seed of Incarvillea Delavayi, pricking out 
the seedlings, and when large enough planting in the 
open ground. They appear to flourish for a few weeks, 
and then invariably die off. Will you kindly tell me 
how I ought to treat them? I have sown 6ecd again 
this year in a cold frame, and the seedlings, so far, 
are flourishing. Would the plants do better if kept 
in pots for a longer period? I have always planted 
them in the open ground about the end of May when 
3 inches or 4 inches high. The soil is very light; but 
I have tried the Incarvilleas both In sun and shade, 
and they evidently do not like the places chosen for 
them. 1 have raised almost all my perennials from 
seed, and have not had many failures.—Miss Jones. 

[The seeds of this plant should be sown in 
pans, pots, or boxes in such a manner that, 
the seedlings can remain for a year at lea*t 
—and that without being crowded. You have 
erred in an endeavour to adopt a rule of- 
tliumb idea of transplanting seedlings, “when 
large enough to handle,” to a somewhat ex¬ 
ceptional subject. This Incarvillea is tap- 
rooted, producing few, if any, root fibres in 
the early stages of its existence, and in estab¬ 
lished examples only during the season of free 
growth. The plant is not very particular 
about sun or shade, and it is not at all a 
question of objecting to the place or position 
selected for it so much as that of resenting 
interference at a wrong time. In other words, 
the plant is always best, if transplanted when 
in the dormant stage. At. the end of a year 
the seedlings will have formed a small dock¬ 
like tap-root with a crown bud, or, perhaps, 
tw'o or more. At this time, during their 
first period of dormancy, you might transfer 
the young plants to 6mall pots ; or, if you lay 
the young plants in pure sand for a time, to 
prevent shrivelling, they could be given per¬ 
manent positions in groups in May. The 
plfopt is always one of the latest to 6tart.] 



Mai 4, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


125 



TREES AND SHRUBS. 

OUR NATIVE BEECH. 

The mixed-muddle tree shrubbery is fatal to 
good effect, and bad from every point of view. 
Even if a hundred years old the timber is rub¬ 
bish. It is the planting most frequent, perhaps, 
in the smaller country places, though it is not 
by any means necessary to follow it. In the 
illustration we have the effect of a small plan¬ 
tation of Beech, which shows the distinct effect 
that grouping a tree can give. In the miles of 
mean shrubberies one sees around every town 
there is plenty of room for a few groups of 
our native trees. The weak muddle we gene¬ 
rally 6ee arises out of the conventional nur- 


great merit in view of the vast area of down 
country, often bare of trees, in southern Eng¬ 
land,. as well as the poor limestone hills of 
Ireland. The timber value of this tree we 
may see in Bucks and the districts near, 
where poor ground covered with Beech gives 
three or more times what it would yield as 
arable. It is a common idea that no shrub 
will grow beneath the Beech, but this 
is an error, for the best of all our ever¬ 
greens, the Holly, often grows well of 
its own choice in Beech woodlands, giving 
a pretty effect in them, though its growth may 
be less vigorous than where more exposed. 
As little else will grow under Beeches, it 
would be wise for those who care for the 
beauty of the wood to add groups of seedling 


EFFECTS OF THE FROST IN THE 
SOUTH-WEST. 

Mr. Chetwood-Aiken’s letter that appeared 
on March 30th leads me to write a few lines 
on the effect of the fro6t, as observed by me 
during visits to about seventeen gardens in 
Cornwall in the past month. Solanum avi- 
culare has been generally killed, the only 
specimens I saw alive being email ones at 
Trebah, where the large example was killed. 
Olenria argophvlla has been severely 
damaged in most gardens, but not killed. 
Grevillea Preissi has been killed in other 
places besides Mr. Chetwood-Aiken’s garden, 
though one example, against a wall, is still 
alive on a certain wall. Senecio Fosteri, the 
correct name of which is Brachyglottis re¬ 
panda, has been absolutely killed in a garden 
a few miles from Penzance, but in my garden, 
at the mouth of the Dart, it has only been 
badly cut, and the flower-buds destroyed. 
Lager6trcemia indica, which Mr. Chetwood- 
Aiken speaks of as unharmed, has been killed 
in some places. A large bush of Loropetalum 
chinense at Trebah was merely slightly 
damaged, the young shoots at the top of the 
shrub being browned, but all the remainder 
of the foliage uninjured. Myoporum lie turn 
has been killed near Penzance, probably the 
largest tree in the south-west falling a victim ; 
but at Falmouth it is scarcely injured. Cal¬ 
ceolaria violacea has suffered severely in some 
gardens, the largest plants being far more 
damaged than the smaller ones. C. Burbidgei 
has been killed in every instance but one 
that I have noted. In the one case where it 
has survived it is breaking from the base. 
C. integrifolia has been killed to the ground 
near Plymouth, but is breaking strongly from 
the base. All the leaves of a large bush of 
Tricuspidaria dependens at Carlew were 
brown, but this was doubtless as much due to 
a late autumnal shift as to the frost. Loni- 
cera Hildebrandti was killed in some in¬ 
stances, but with me is absolutely unharmed, as 
are Sollya heterophylla, dead in two Cornish 
ardens, and Semele androgyna, which has 
een severely injured, if not killed, in Corn¬ 
wall, where Hoheria populnea is dead in one 
case. All the plants of Metrosideroe known 
to me on the mainland are dead, but what 
is generally sold as Metroeideros floribunda, 
which is really Callistemon ealignus, is un¬ 
harmed. In a certain garden near Penzance 
Acacia armata, A. verticillata, A. longifolia, 
and A. lophantha were killed. The last- 
named species was very generally lost, the 
only specimen I saw alive being a small one 
in a sheltered position at Trebah, where the 
Cape Silver Tree (Leucodendron argenteum), 
7 feet high, had only been very slightly 
damaged. In the same garden I saw the only 
example of Echium I met with alive, all the 
others being killed. Three fine specimens of 
Psoralia pinnata were also ouitc unharmed 
at Trebah, though in every other garden, in¬ 
cluding my own, they were killed. The only 
private garden where I found the Ivj'-leaved 
Pelargonium alive was Trebah, where Datura 
sanguinea and D. flava were cut to the 
ground, but were breaking strongly from the 
roots. The largest specimen of the former in 
the south-west, in a Falmouth garden, was 
killed to the ground level, but I detected 
signs of its breaking again at the base of the 
trunks. In this garden Tacsonia quitensis 
covered a large portion of the house, and was 
apparently dead, as was a large plant of T. 
mollisima, which completely covered a cot¬ 
tage near Trebah, but there I found both 
Tacsonias breaking from the base, so that in 
all probability the two previously mentioned 
will start into growth again. Myoporum 
rosmarinifolium is dead with me, but M. 
lsetum, though very badly damaged, gives evi¬ 
dences of pulling round. Arctotis aspera 
arborescens is killed, but the far handsomer 
A. aureola, though dead to the ground-level, 
is now throwing up strongly from the roots. 
Buddleia Colvillei ha6 not had a leaf injured, 
but one plant of B. madagascarensis has been 
killed, though two others are alive. Shrubby 
Veronicas have been killed near Plymouth, 
where Drimys Winteri, from South America, 
is quite uninjured, and is evidently a hardy 
shrub. The Zonal Pelargoniums are evi¬ 
dently not so tender as their Ivy-leaved 
sisters. S. W. Fitzhereeut. 


A group of a native tree—Beech. From a photograph by Mr. W. J. Yasey, Abingdon, Berks. 


aery idea that the only way to plant is to plant 
a mixture of all sorts of things that happen to 
be in stock. These soon begin to struggle 
against each other, the coarser ones killing 
the weaker. It is not uncommon in such a 
case to see choice evergreen shrubs planted 
under trees, and every other kind of absurd 
prror in planting. Let us turn to a pleasanter 
theme. 

One of the kings of the northern forest for 
beauty and stature, the Beech has a merit 
over the Oak in that it grows over a much 
wider area in all sorts of poor and arid situa¬ 
tions, from Northern Greece to Denmark. 
The Oak loves the cool and rich lowland 6oils 
and must have them if we are to get good re¬ 
sults, the Beech adorning and enriching 
the poorest land we knen*—chalky dawns, 
sandy washes, and rock^hil|s^ r M)i 


I Hollies here and there, to gain the pretty 
evergreen undergrowth of Holly that may be 
| seen in some of the Berkshire Beech woods, 
and also in Epping Forest. 

The Beech is so good in colour that we can 
i hardly misplace it, though for its fine winter 
I as well as summer effect it is best seen as a 
massed or grouped tree. Its colour changes 
I much during the growing season, a light 
J green at first, gradually becoming darker as 
the season advances till its autumn hues ap¬ 
pear, when it assumes a warm russet-brown 
colour. In fine autumns especially, its effect 
is as good as that of any free, its colour last¬ 
ing longer than that of many of the American 
trees. A variety of the Beech has leaves of 
deep-bronze or purple colour: it should be 
used sparingly; it can be raised true, or 
nearly so, from seed. 









126 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


May 4, 1907 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Pyru« japonica failing to bloom.—I would like 
to know if anything can be done to induce a Pyrus 
japonica to flower? I have had one several years, and 
only get one or two blossoms. Is it due to injudicious 
pruning?— Mrs. Sharp. 

[It is very difficult to assign any reason for 
your Pyrus japonica failing to bloom—that is 
if it is in a sunny position, as this is impor¬ 
tant for the thorough ripening of the wood. 
We would advise you to cut out any old and 
exhausted growths, and shorten back the 
vigorous ones, thus allowing a free circula¬ 
tion of light and air. Pyrus japonica always 
flowers better when allowed to grow natur¬ 
ally than when closely pruned. Such being 
the case, it shonld only be cut back as fur 
as is really necessary to keep it within 
bounds. Any old or exhausted shoots should 
be cut clean out, as by so doing the young, 
clean growths, on which depends a good deal 
of the future display, are encouraged. A good 
time for doing this is as soon as the flowering 
period is over, and then there is a long grow¬ 
ing season before it. You may. if you do not 
wish the plant to grow too far away from 
the wall (if your plant is grown as a wall 
plant), shorten in the season’s shoots, and 
thus induce the formation of spurs or flower- 
buds. This can be done, of course, immedi¬ 
ately after flowering. Lav in the best of the 
young wood, and spur back any that is weak. 
Cut away the weakest of the growths that 
spring from the base, and nail in as many of 
the others ns you have room for.] , 

Increasing Azalea mollis -1 have some Azalea 
mollis, which have bloomed ho well that l am anxious 
to propagate from them, and shall feel obliged if you 
will advise me as to the time and method? A reply 
through the medium of your paper will bo greatly 
esteemed.—L. B. 

[Azalea mollis is, to the amateur, far from 
an easy subject to propagate, the better-class 
varieties being increased by grafting on to 
seedlings of the ordinary kind. This, how¬ 
ever. is an operation that requires several 
appliances and a considerable amount of 
technical skill. The ordinary Azalea mollis 
is propagated by moans of seed, which may 
be sown in pans and stood in a frame kept 
('lose and shaded. The seed is so minute that 
it*should only be covered with a slight sprink¬ 
ling of fine sandy peat. The pans must be 
well drained, and the compost should be made 
up of peat and sand, with a little sprinkling 
of loam. For all this it will be four years 
before your seedlings reach an effective 
flowering size, so that unless some special 
reasons exist you will find it more satisfactory 
to purchase a few plants, especially when the 
cheap rate at which they can be bought is 
taken into consideration.] 

Rhododendron in bad condition —Would you 
be so kind as to advise ine bow to save the life of a 
very handsome red Rhododendron, about 20 feet high, 
and growing in the position shown in the sketch sent? 
Instead of being a mass of bloom and growth from 
top to bottom, as it used to be, it has become all 
gappy and shrunken • looking. There are a few 
healthy looking growths in the middle, and the top 
part is much better than the lower. It is a very 
early-blooming kind, and ought to be in blossom very 
nearly by now. It must be an old tree, as it was, I 
think, as large as it is now when 1 came here twenty 
years ngo. The very dry summer and autumn of last 
year no doubt tried it very much. Lately I have had 
manure and leaf-mould laid about it, and pails of 
water poured on it; but I do not yet see much im¬ 
provement. This has been done before sometimes in 
dry times, but. F think the plan of raking away all 
the leaves, for the sake of tidiness, from among the 
shrubs is a bad thing for them.—E. A. H.. Ilastinqg. 

[In all probability the dry and hot summer 
and autumn experienced last year were the 
cause of your Rhododendron falling into ill- 
health. and, being an old tree, it is naturally 
more difficult to revive than if young and 
vigorous. The treatment you have given it is 
the best that, could have been done, but we 
very much question whether you will succeed 
in restoring it to health. In any case, if not 
actually dead it will take a long time to re¬ 
cover.] 

Amrclopsls Veitchl for new buildings. 

Sometimes certain climbing plants do not grow very 
well when planted on new walls; but there is an ex¬ 
ception to this in the ease of that most popular of 
nil creepers, Ampelopsis Veitchi. It may be said of 
this that it will grow in any position and in almost 
any locality, and, being grown and offered for sale in 
pots, may with ordinary care be planted out at any 
time of the year. I know of no other creeper that so 
quickly takes to its new quarters as does this Ampe¬ 
lopsis, and those m want of a clinger that requires 
next to nothing in the way of support after once 
the’shoots have got hold, cannot do better than 
plant it. I have had experience with it ore new wall3, 
and have found it soon/cover them.—I owisman. 

t \jO glc 


GARDEN PE8TS AND FRIENDS. 

THE AMERICAN GOOSEBERUY-M1L- 
EEW (SI’IGEROTHECA 1IOKS-UVAE). 
During the winter of 1906 7 the presence of 
the American Gooseberry-mildew in certain 
gardens in Worcestershire has been definitely 
confirmed, and the cases investigated under 
the auspices of the Worcestershire County 
Council. The reports which have been sent 
to the Board of Agriculture and Fisheries 
show that the extent and seriousness of the 
disease, are much greater than was at first 
supposed, and, in view of the increased 
danger of infection which arises when the 
mildew passes into its summer stage, the 
Board think it desirable to issue a further 
warning to nil fruit growers, nurserymen, 
gardeners, and other growers of Goose¬ 
berries. No reports of the presence of the 
disease elsewhere than in Worcestershire and 
Gloucestershire have been confirmed, but. as 
it is abundantly clear that the mildew lias 
been present in certain centres in these coun¬ 
ties for three or four years, and has spread 
to many adjoining gardens, among which must 
be included .some nursery gardens, it is only 
too probable that it will be found in other 
districts as the spring advances. All Goose¬ 
berry-growers are, therefore, advised to watch 
the plants closely during the summer months, 
especially those bushes which have been re¬ 
cently bought, in order that the disease may 
be detected and dealt with at the earliest pos¬ 
sible moment. The evidence that has lieen 
collected in Worcestershire shows that in 
most eases it is only the,young shoots that 
have been attacked, ami that generally, 
though not always, the disease has appeared 
in low-lying damp situations. The attention 
of Gooseberry-growers should, therefore, be 
directed chiefly to the damper places and to 
the young wood. All Gooseberry-growers 
who have the least reason to suspect infection 
are advised to spray their bushes with a solu¬ 
tion of liver of sulphur (potassium sulphide) 
from the time the leaves open until the fruit 
is set. A solution of half an ounce to a 
gallon and a half of water is recommended for 
the first spraying, and the strength should be 
increased to a solution of half an ounce to 
one gallon of water at the second spraying. 
In some climates it has be$n found that spray¬ 
ing with half an ounce to the gallon of water 
has injured the leaves of the Gooseberry. 
Growers should, therefore, carefully note the 
effects of the first spraying, and if the leaves 
appear to have suffered any injury from the 
weak solution, the stronger solution should 
not be used. On the other hand, if a spray 
of half an ounce to the gallon does no harm, 
the grower mav resort to somewhat stronger 
spray fluids. The spray should be applied at 
intervals of from fourteen to twenty days. 
It must be understood, however, that the 
liver of sutphur spray is recommended as a 
preventive, and that it cannot be relied upon 
to produce a cure. Should any suspicious 
symptoms be discovered on the plants, in 
spite of these precautions, the case should 
at once be reported to the Board. A few 
slijw of bushes showing the disease in its 
most marked form should be cut off and sent 
carefully packed in a strong wooden or metal 
box (not a cardboard box) with the report to 
the Board. The postage on letters and pack¬ 
ages sent by letter post need not. be prepaid. 
All other suspected shoots should cut off 
and destroyed at once. Care should be taken 
to see that the light conidial spores on the 
bushes are not. distributed by the wind to 
other plants, and the knife or shears used in 
cutting off the slips should be disinfected im¬ 
mediately afterwards by dipping iu the spray 
fluid. The Board will inform the correspon¬ 
dent as soon ns possible if the plants are 
affected with the American Gooseberry mil¬ 
dew, and, if so, lie should take immediate 
steps to prevent the disease spreading. 

The best means to be adopted will vary in 
different cases. The following are sugges¬ 
tions for guidance. Growers must remember 
that during the summer months the spores 
which spread the infection are very readily 
carried from plant to plant. They should, 
therefore, aim (1) at getting rid of all in¬ 
fected material as soon as possible ; (2) at 
destroying all leaves, buds, and fruit to which 


it is at all probable that infection has spread. 
In dealing with small bushes the best plan 
would be to prune off the branches one by 
one, to drop them into a pail, and then to 
destroy by fire or by' steeping in a cask con¬ 
taining a solution of four ounces Milestone 
(copper sulphate) or two ounces liver of sul¬ 
phur to the gallon of water. In the case of 
arge bushes, it would usually be best to 
prune off all the young shoots and then to 
destroy the leaves on the lower part of the 
bush bv employing a spray containing eight 
ounces Milestone to the gallon of water. It 
would uot be safe to attempt to cut down or 
dig out affected bushes during the summer, 
for in doing so workmen would, probably, 
spread the disease. Having disposed of all 
diseased material and of the leaves, buds, and 
fruit on all plants to which infection may 
have spread, the grower should next spray 
the whole plantation with a solution of half 
an ounce of liver of sulphur to one gallon of 
water. He should repeat the spraying within 
a week, and continue it at intervals of ten 
days throughout the rest of the season. 
Spraying should be done on a dry day ; if 
rain should fall soon after spraying, and the 
liver of sulphur is washed off, tne hushes 
should be sprayed again as soon as they are 
dry. In order to assist growers in identify¬ 
ing the disease, the Board are issuing an 
illustrated leaflet, which will be sent upon 
application. American Gooseberry-mildew 
lias attacked Red Currants in Ireland and 
some other countries, and there i« reason to 
believe that it may also attack Black Cur¬ 
rants and Raspberries ; these plants should, 
therefore, be kept under observation by fruit¬ 
growers. 

The Board would again urge upon growers 
the necessity of taking every possible precau¬ 
tion to prevent the spread of American 
Gooseberry - mildew during the summer 
months. From the experience of Irish and 
Continental growers, it would seem likely 
that those owners of affected Gooseberry 
bushes who neglect to take drastic measures 
may incur serious losses .—-Board of Agricul¬ 
ture and Fisheries. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Diseased Hollyhocks. I enclose a leaf off a 
Hollyh ock, and will feel obliged if you can inform me 
whut i« the matter with it, also if anything can be 
done to cure it? I have several young plants, and 
two or three are affected like the enclosed leaf. 1 
should like to prevent the disease from spreading. 
The plants at present are standing in a cold-frame.— 
Margaret R. Scott. 

[Your Hollyhocks have been attacked by the 
Hollyhock disease (Puecinia malvacearum). 
You had better at once pick off all the in¬ 
fested leaves and burn them ; then spray the 
plants with Bordeaux mixture twice, with an 
interval of ten days. We should advise you 
to spray the healthy plants as well.] 

Scale on Myrtle.— Can you tell me what is wrong 
with this Myrtle? It is a young plant kept in a 
room, and looked quite healthy till the leaves began 
to fall off lately, and I noticed insects on the under 
part of the leaves.— Jane Morris. 

[The leaves vou send have fallen a prey to 
brown scale. You ought to scrape off any of 
the insects that are on the steins or shoots of 
the plant, then spray or syringe the trees with 
paraffin emulsion or Quassia and soft-soap. 
In the course of a few days spray again, to 
make sure of killing any of the young that 
may have escaped the first application. To 
can*.! the leaves to fall off as you say, the 
plant must bo in a very bad stab*, and evi¬ 
dently wants attention at the roots.] 

Earwigs (Alfred T. Short).— You cannot 
prevent earwigs getting on to your plants, as 
they cau fly well, and though they are seldom 
seen oil the wing, they undoubtedly fly at. 
night. They arc provided with au ample 
pair of wings that are wonderfully folded, 
when not in use, beneath their wing-eases. 
The only way to catch them is to lay the 
hollow stems of various plants, such as Sun¬ 
flowers or Broad Beans, among tin! shoot h 
of the plants they are attacking. These 
should be examined every morning, and the 
contents shaken or blown into a vessel of 
water on which a little paraffin oil is floating. 


Index to Volume XXVIII.— The binding covers 
(price Is. 6d. each, post free, Is. 9d.) and Index (3d., 
post free, 3id.) for Volume XXVIII. are now- ready, 
and mav be had of all newsagents, or of the Pub¬ 
lisher, post tree, 2s. for the two. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



May 4, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


127 



ROOM AND WINDOW. 

A BLUE PARSLEY-WORT (TRACHY- 
MENE CCERULEA). 

The Blue Parsley-wort is rather rare among 
garden plants, and this one is very distinct 
and charming, though few people recognise 
it, as it is not often grown, although well 
worth the trouble. It is a half-hardy annual, 
though in some places the soil may be warm 
and open enough to justify sowing it in the 
open air. It is not only pretty and distinct 
in the open garden, but is also very useful 
for cutting, although so 
fragile in the root that 
one must be careful not 
to pull up the plant in 
gathering the flowers. 

Perhaps if sown where 
it is to grow it would 
have a stronger root- 
crown. It has rather 
the look of a Scabious, 
but is quite distinct from 
any other flower. This 
plant is also known as 
Lidiscus coeruleus. 


Star Primulas for cutting.— No one who 

has once seen a house of the Star Primulas 
j when in bloom can come to any other con- 
| elusion than that they are deserving of wider 
1 culture, inasmuch as their decorative value is 
| such as to render them extremely useful about 
the house. As the present is a suitable time 
i to sow, may I recommend them to those who 
have only grown the older forms of the 
Chinese Primula. Primula stellata produces 
smaller blossoms, hut their 6pray-like habit 
has made them popular wherever their cul¬ 
ture has been undertaken.—F. W. D. 

Window plants.— From time to time I see 


XUIES AXD REPLIES. 


Variegated - leaved 
Funkias in the house. 

In your issue of April 
6th (page 74) is a note on 
these. Like your cor¬ 
respondent I, too, can 
sav a good word for the 
gold and silver forms. 
For many years I have 
grown these for vases, a 
purpose they are excel¬ 
lent for, especially when 
placed just under the 
eye. I prefer a nice 
fresh plant of the bright 
golden form to many of 
the Crotons and fine- 
foliaged material that 
costs double to grow. It. 
is true the bright colour 
after a time goes off. 
This is more than com¬ 
pensated for by the ease 
others may be brought 
on to take their place. 
I am convinced that 
were more attention 
given to Funkias and 
other hardy plants for 
furnishing, the strain on 
the glass department 
would be reduced. I 
find Funkias most use¬ 
ful for grouping in our 
cloisters. Another merit 
these have, as stated, is 
that they can be allowed 
to remain out-of-doors 
the greater portion of 
the year. I allow them 
to die down naturally, 
then plunge them in 
ashes in the open, bring¬ 
ing them into warmth 
if needed early.—J. 
Crook. 


Iceland Poppies in 
the room. —The colours 
of the blooms of Iceland 
Poppies are delicate, and 
harmonise with most de¬ 
corations in a room, and for this reason the 
flowers are nice for cutting. Young plants 
procured early in spring will often give a 
good account of themselves ; but to have a 
good bed it is far better to sow seed and get 
the young plants into their quarters in 
autumn. After a hard winter like last it is 
only to be expected that one has to record 
some failures, but one may guard against this 
in a great measure by giving them the shelter 
of a frame, or placing a light over the bed. The 
orange-scarlet and white and yellow blossoms 
look very pretty when arranged in vases with 
a few' Grasses or other light material. Seed 
should be sown now 
—WOODH AST WICK 


wueii arranged in vases wun 
other light material. Seed 
iow fojT'pRints for next year. 

* Go gle 


A blue Parsley-wort (Trachyuiene coerulea). 


various plants recommended for house and 
window decoration, but no one has. I think, 
said much in favour of Asparagus Sprengeri. 
I have in front of an old-fashioned bay 
window a cork-covered shelf, w'hich takes 
about a, dozen large plants to fill it. In 
summer the window gets very hot, and in 
winter it is equally cold, and most Ferns, un¬ 
less changed very often, soon lose their fresh¬ 
ness. Having only a tiny greenhouse (12 feet 
by 7 feet) I found it impossible to keep up a 
constant supply of fresh Ferns. I had raised 
a few plants of Asparagus Sprengeri from 
seed. They are now in 8-inch pots, and for 
the last twelve months they have never been 
out of the window, except for an occasional 


washing. They have kept beautifully green 
all winter, appear to stand heat and cold 
equally well, and now they are throwing 
out long shoots, many over 40 inches in 
length. I have placed in amongst the A. 
Sprengeri at various times Primulas, Cycla¬ 
mens, and winter-flowering Begonias, the soft 
feathery foliage making an excellent back¬ 
ground for the flowering plants. Everyone 
who comes into the room admires my Aspara¬ 
gus Sprengeri, and to those who find it diffi¬ 
cult to keep Ferns in a room with fire and 
gas I can confidently recommend it.—Misa 
Jones, Tyn-y-fro, Crickhowdl. 

Cyclamens in window —Being much interested 
in window gardening, I am surprised to read, in the 
I “ Note from Wilts," April 13th, p. 91, as to the be¬ 
haviour of Cyclamens in a window. I have some very 
tine Cyclamen bulbs, which I thought must be thrown 
away as I have no glass or artificial heat for them. 

I shall be obliged if you will inform me how tho 
bulbs should be treated during the summer and If it 
is possible, without sending them to a greenhouse, 
to have flowers from them again next winter—as 
window plants?—I. B., Greenshields. 

[There is no need to throw away bulbs 
of Cyclamens after they have done flowering, 
provided you have a window that is found 
suitable for plants. There is such a difference 
in the fitness of windows for gardening that 
we could not positively say you would be 
quite successful with Cyclamens. The Cycla- 
1 mens you refer to arc grown without glass, 
j except a frame in the early autumn, but even 
this is not absolutely necessary. The first 
aim is to preserve your existing foliage as 
* long as possible, or until it shows signs of 
I ripening and changing to a yellow cast ; then 
allow the conns to remain on the dry side for 
! some time. In the summer you can lay 
the pots on their sides against a wall out¬ 
doors, and when signs of renewed activity 
appear repot into the same or similar-sized 
pot. Choose some fresh maiden turfy loam, 
mix with this a little decayed manure and 
leaf-mould—say, one part each of these to two 
parts loam, add some coarse silver-sand, and 
well mix together. Pot fairly firm, and let 
the crown of the bulb rise just above the 
surface of the soil. Very careful watering 
must be practised from this time forward, as 
Cyclamens are most impatient of a wet, sod- 
dened condition, yet when the pots are full of 
active roots they will require a liberal amount 
of moisture. Much sim exposure is not 
favourable, but in the winter months give tho 
plants the most favoured and sunny aspect, 
changing them to a north-cast window, if 
possible, when flowers advance. Cyclamens 
with only strictly window cultivation have 
been known to continue in a satisfactory state 
for a good many years, though necessarily the 
flowers are not so fine as from younger ones. 
In repotting see that the drainage is sufficient 
to carry surplus water away quickly, remove 
as much of the old soil as will come away 
freely from the roots, and make sure there 
are no worms in the potting compost, as these 
are highly detrimental to the root progress of 
the plants. At the end of July or beginning 
of August is when they are ready for re¬ 
potting, usually. Do not give any stimulants 
until roots are quite active and the plants 
are beginning to throw up their flowers. A 
little artificial manure is a help, but only in 
small doses occasionally.] 


Grub injuring Apple-tree — I thank you for 
kindly replying to my question re the grub found in 
bark of Apple-tree, but regret to say I find it was 
destroyed. I now enclose picture of one which greatly 
resembles it in appearance, hoping it may be a guide 
to discovery of name, etc.—F. C. 


[The illustration you send is a representa¬ 
tion of the grub of the common cockchafer 
(Melolontha vulgaris), but this grub lives in 
the ground, feeding on the roots of plants. 
The grubs of the Lucanidfe (the family to 
which the 6tag-beetle belongs) are somewhat 
similar in shape, and it is one of these, prob¬ 
ably. which has attacked your Apple-trees, 
but I can only make a guess at the culprit 
without seeing it. The best wavs of dealing 
with w'ood-boring grubs are to try and stab 
them with a sharp-pointed wire, or to inject 
paraffin oil with a small syringe into their 
burrows, and then close the entrance with, 
a plug of clay, or a plug of tow soaked in 
paraffin oil or tar may be thrust a6 far as 
possible into the tunnel made by the grub.— 

g. Irfff V 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




128 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


Mat 4, 1907 


VEGETABLES. 

TOMATOES IN THE OPEN AIR. 

By the time these notes appear it will be time 
to think about planting out the outdoor Toma¬ 
toes ; therefore, a few timely hints may not 
be out of place. That the outdoor culture of 
Tomatoes is very precarious there is no 
denying; yet, there is a certain amount of 
comfort in the reflection that seldom is there 
a total failure. Select a sunny position, 
where the soil is light and well-drained, as 
Tomatoes will not thrive on soil that is heavy 
or sodden. The ground for Tomatoes should 
be made firm, otherwise the plants will make 
very little progress. The holes in which they 
are planted should bo 9 inches or 10 inches 
ncross, and 6 inches deep. The plants should 
bo planted 2 inches deeper in the holes than 
they were in the pots or boxes. This will 
cause them to make fresh root sooner, and 
greatly assist the plants. After putting out 
the plants give each a little warm water. 
Some cultivators think Tomatoes can be 
grown in any place, and with other crops. 
This is quite wrong. Tomatoes will not thrive 
in close proximity to any other crop. A few 
make the mistake in planting out iu heavily- 
manured ground. This only produces coarse 
leafage, which invites disease. A common 
error is often made in planting too close. 
Nothing is gained by this, as Tomatoes require 
plenty of air and sun. If they are to be 
planted in a single row, along a border, 
18 inches apart will be quite enough, but if in 
double rows 2 feet should be given, and 3 feet 
between the rows. Care should be taken from 
the first to remove all side shoots. In dry 
weather the plants will require plenty of 
water. They should be watered well at least 
once a week. When the first trues of fruit 
is set fill up the holes with well-decayed 
manure. The plants should not be let carry 
more than three trusses. I find from long ex¬ 
perience that to attempt to let the plants 
carry any more is a great mistake. After the 
third truss is set pinch out the lender. A few 
growers ruin their crops by digging about the 
plants. This should never be done. Remove 
all weeds by hand. I find many suffer a loss 
of crop from their anxiety to obtain large 
plants, that have soft, thick stems and gross 
foliage, which, fall a prey to disease. The 
plants should bo short-jointed, with hard, 
woody stems, and dark, firm foliage. Such 
plants are seldom affected with disease. After 
the second truss is set Tomatoes will take as 
much support as any other plant, and are 
much benefited by a change of stimulants. 
Sheep and cow-droppings are best on light 
soils. 

Towards the end of the season, when the 
soil contains much moisture, it is, I find, 
advisable to sever the roots w r ith a spade all 
around the plant. This will stop a lot of the 
cracking. If at any time the plants are 
starved from want of moisture the blossoms 
set badly, and the cracking of the fruit is 
often caused by lack of moisture early in the 
growth of the fruit, thereby tightening the 
skins. Regular treatment is the best. I have 
observed plants so denuded of their foliage as 
to preclude the possibility of the fruit develop¬ 
ing. Any leaf that shades the fruit may be 
removed when the Tomatoes show signs of 
ripening, but wholesale defoliation must he 
avoided. For open air culture I can strongly 
recommend the following : —Laxton’s Early 
Prolific, Earliest of All, Holmes’s Supreme, 
Up to-Date, and Ham Green Favourite. The 
first three are the earliest. The third week 
in May is quite soon enough to plant out. 
Last season I put out alongside a high bank 
facing south ninety-two plants of Up-to-Date, 
and gathered 554 lb. of fine ripe fruit, every 
Tomato having ripened on the plant. Should 
the season not be favourable to outdoor Toma¬ 
toes some of the fruit being still green at the 
end of the season, such may be used for 
making Tomato chutney. 

Herbert Thackeray. 


Beetroot.- If a few' early roots are re¬ 
quired, a little seed of the round or Globe 
variety may Iks sown towards the close of 
April, but the mai|f”ofoji.iiepd nol sown 
uutilla month later, Lilj^»Jupo(C»rJ ^iot what 


are wanted for the table. Of late years I havo 
found the medium root is much preferred to 
the large, coarse-grained one, and the same 
with Parsnips. A piece of ground that has 
had winter Spinach on it will bo available 
early in May. This should be cleared away 
and a dressing of lime given before digging 
the ground, which needs to be deep and well 
pulverised, and worked down to a fine tilth 
before sowing the seed. Should the ground 
be dry, the drills, which ought to be 15 inches 
asunder and about 1^ inch deep, must be 
watered before sowing the seed. Dell’s 
Crimson, still one of the best Beets, has a 
medium-sized root of fine colour, and Middle 
ton Favourite, a selection of the former, is 
also a valuable variety.—B. D. 


UNAPPRECIATED VEGETABLES. 

The illustration and interesting notes ap¬ 
pended thereto that appear on page 97, have 
suggested the note on the above subject. 
Purple-sprouting Broccoli is an impossible 
vegetable for the dining room, and is just 
barely tolerated in the servants’ hall. It may 
be on account of the colour, but I am inclined 
to think that, being rather harder in the stem 
than most sprouting vegetables, however 
short it is nipped off, it does not receive the 
netressary amount of cooking. Ground for¬ 
merly occupied by this is now filled by good 
Broccoli of the same season and the best 
Kales. Spinach Beet, is often strongly recom¬ 
mended as a winter substitute for Spinach 
when the latter fails. I tried it one season, 
and was told not to send it up again, the 
failure to please being again, probably, 
due to insufficient cooking. A good yellow- 
fleshed Turnip, as Orange Jelly, or Yellow 
Malta, and Stachvs tuberifera, are vege¬ 
tables of which I am very fond, but it is use¬ 
less growing them. Objection was raised to 
the colour of the Turnips, and to an earthy 
flavour with the Stachvs— the latter, again, 
l>eing, very probably, an error in the cook¬ 
ing. Early and second early Cauliflowers are 
acceptable, but later sorts, if a little strong, 
are at once rejected, and Sea Kale is at a 
premium, except about once a week. In com¬ 
mon with myself, I daresay many gardeners 
have experienced similar difficulties, and 
when it is so it certainly is none too easy to 
furnish a constant supply of vegetables from, 
say, the middle of December until the middle 
of April, especially in those places w’here 
glass structures are not numerous and the 
supply of fuel is limited. 

E. Burrell. 


NOTES ANI) REPLIES. 

Cabbages bolting. I should like to know why 
some young spring Cabbages, which were just begin¬ 
ning to get large enough to eat, should bolt? They 
were sown in August and transplanted iu September, 
the laud being manured with peat Moss from a fowl- 
house. Would that be the cause? They also seem 
infested with little white insects, like tiny moths, 
and the lower leaves are covered with brown spots as 
enclosed. Could you suggest a remedy? Would soot 
or Quassia be any good?—M. B. 

[The bolting off to flower of certain Cab¬ 
bage plants is now more accredited to bad 
stocks or varieties than to culture. Trials of 
various stocks have shown that whilst cer¬ 
tain varieties planted out. both in September 
and in October, to heart in in the spring, 
have given bolters variously, some nil, some 
from 5 to 10 per cent., and, in some cases, 
even one-half lias bolted. If seed-growers 
would never save seed from bolting stocks, 
the defect would soon die out. More rigid 
selection will cure it in time. We have seen 
breadths of April, Flower of Spring, No. 1, 
First and Best, Ellam’s, and others, running 
into several thousands, not one of which has 
bolted. Any variety sown in the early spring 
for summer or autumn hearting never holts. 
It is the tendency to revert to the annual 
character of the Wild Cabbage, which is at 
the root of the trouble. The leaves of Cab¬ 
bages sent show them much eaten by slugs ; 
also there seems evidence that the soil is poor, 
or otherwise the leaves would be larger and 
stouter. To cleanse the heads from white 
mites, soak half a bushel of soot, put into a 
coarse bag and tied loosely, in a tub con¬ 
taining ton gallons of water, and let it soak 
for 48 hours. Then well sprinkle or syringe 


the plants in the evening with the clear eoot- 
water, and wash it off with clear w’ater in the 
morning, and no unpleasant taste will result.] 

Growing Celery on the bed system —Will you 

kindly explain how to grow Celery on the " bed" 
system? Are the results good?—I*. B. Ingham. 

[Many gardeners grow 1 two rows of Celery 
in one trench, and the bed system may be 
said to lie an extension of this method. The 
bed is simply a wide trench. We have gener¬ 
ally found the most convenient width 6 feet. 
The soil is taken out from 6 inches to 8 inches 
in depth, a layer of rotten manure is placed 
on, and mixed with the soil by digging it in. 
The rows of Celery are planted across the 
trench, not lengthways, as the earthing up 
can be more conveniently done when the rows 
run across the trench. In earthing up, the 
usual plan is to draw the stems together with 
strings of raffia. The best varieties for this 
kind of culture are those which grow erect, 
such as Incomparable (white) and Major 
Clarke’s Solid Red. Where much Celery is 
required for cooking, there is economy in the 
system, and the plants do not suffer so much 
during severe frost as when grown in single 
rows, and the bed is easily protected by a 
covering of straw or Reed mats, should cover¬ 
ing be necessary.] 

[-Where land is scarce a good deal of 

useful Celery may be produced on a small 
plot by adopting what is called the bed sys¬ 
tem. A wide trench is mode, the compost is 
wheeled in, and the bottom of the trench 
forked over, and the plants set in rows across 
the trench, 9 inches in the rows and 1 foot 
between. The soil taken out is thrown 
equally on each side and used for earthing 
up in the ordinary way. Before the plants 
are earthed up the leaves of each plant are 
tied with a piece of matting. This plan is 
very well in a dry soil, but decay sets iu 
earlier if the soil is damp and retentive.] 

Sulphate of ammonia for Potatoes.-I have 
been recommended by a member of my committee to 
use sulphate of ammonia to improve the quality of 
my Potatoes. Please let me know if it will do this, 
also how much per acre would be a good dressing 
(when moulding) for Potatoes well manured when 
planted? State bow it acts?—T. Richmond. 

[Sulphate of ammonia is, as a rule, a use¬ 
ful manure in Potato growing, though, as has 
often been pointed out, the results obtained 
must depend on the character of the soil ami 
the general treatment of the land in regard 
to manuring. Whether the sulphate will im¬ 
prove the quality is not so certain, but, on 
the whole, the evidence seems to show that it 
will. At all events, the quality of Potatoes 
grown with a half-supply of yard dung, 
supplemented by Various artificials, of which 
sulphate of ammonia was one, was much 
superior to that of the tubers grown with 
a full supply of dung and no artificials. The 
question, “How much would be a good dress¬ 
ing?” depends entirely on the treatment 
that the land has already received. Has it 
had an application of stable or yard-dung, 
or are you trying to grow with artificials 
alone? In the latter case, sulphate of am¬ 
monia by itself will be inadequate, and, in 
any case, it would be more profitably used if 
accompanied by superphosphate and kninit 
or other potash manure. The dose of sul¬ 
phate of ammonia would be 1^ cwt. to 2 cwt. 
per acre, if dung has already been used.] 

Spring Broccoli. —Although the winter has 
been particularly hard for us in Devon, the 
majority of the plants have pulled through, 
and now (the end of March) we are cutting 
good heads of Penzance and Veitch’s Spring 
White, two very excellent varieties. Dil- 
cock’s Bride is another good one to follow 
these two, and should be more often found in 
our gardens than it is. The same may be 
said of Veitch’s Main Crop, which will be 
ready in a few days. The late varieties have 
not come through the ordeal so well, especi¬ 
ally on a long north border I have planted 
with Model and Leamington, the continued 
frost telling against them. A sowing of 
autumn and early spring varieties should 
be made in early April; the late ones the 
first week in May. You must have nice 
stocky plants to bear the transplanting. Very 
often in the hottest of weather a small, weak 
plant soon gets scorched up, especially where 
water is scarce and the soil is light and 
porous. -East Devon. 


JFat 4, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


129 



FRUIT. 

THE CULTIVATION OF MELONS. 

A good crop of Melons, as depicted in the 
accompanying photograph, is a credit to the 
grower, and requires much care and thought 
on the part of the cultivator to achieve such 
gratifying results. That Melons are most dis. 
appointing none will deny. One has only to 
be a judge at a fairly large summer exhibi¬ 
tion and he will come to the conclusion that 
quite one-half is no better than a common 
Turnip. Doubtless, the weather has a good 
deal to do with this. Cold, sunless days while 
oil the verge of ripening do not tend to add 
flavour to this fruit, yet the cultivator is often 
to blame in not using discretion as to root 
watering, applying stimulants, neglecting 
sufficient ventilation, and last, though far 
from least, allowing the foliage to become in¬ 
fested with red-spider, leaf after leaf shrivel¬ 
ling up long before the fruits begin to ripen— 
a period when it requires all the assistance 
possible from the foliage to insure good 
flavoured fruit. Melons ripe before the end 
of April or the first week in May, or after the 
end of October, cannot compare for flavour 
with those ripened between these, dates, as 
stin. with a free circulation of warm air. they 
must have, or the fruits arc most insipid. 


material this cannot be done. In the latter 
case about 9 inches of soil are required, and 
should consist of lumpy loam not too light in 
texture, a little powdered lime rubble, and 
fresh soot, all to be made very firm. The 
soil must be on the dry side ere this ramming 
can be done. To grow these early crops a 
night temperature of 65 degs. must be main¬ 
tained, with the usual rise by day either with 
the sun or artificial heat, 80 degs. being none 
too much in bright weather from early March 
onwards. There are various methods adopted, 
some growers pinching the point out at the 
second leaf, and taking up two or three shoots, 
training them 9 inches apart, others grow 
them on as single cordons, and I consider 
this as good a plan as any, especially when 
grown in pots. Treated thus, or planted out, 
18 inches space should be allowed between 
each plant. Stop the 6hoots when within 
6 inches of their limit, the few bottom laterals 
at the first leaf. These will often throw a 
fruiting growth, and come into flower at the 
same time as the shoots further up, a stage 
when it is necessary to keep the plants dry 
overhead untiL a sufficient number of fruits 
from three to six of as even a size as possible 
has set. Should one take the lead it must 
be cut off, or the others would fail to 6well 
away with it. Before the plants come into 
flower, and again after a 6et has been secured, 


Part of a house of Melons (The Peer anil Countess). From a photograph sent by Mr. G. W. Sinclair, 
The Gardens, Kilbreack House, Doneraile. 


Growing Melons in pots. —This used to 
be more in vogue than at the present day, not 
but that good fruits were grown—I have 
grown many batches in this way—but neglect 
of watering and the fear of their being 
neglected even for an hour on a bright, sunny 
day, meant disaster to the crop if they once 
got very dry while swelling. Pots 12 inches 
in diameter are none too large, these being 
plunged in a bottom heat of 70 degs. For the 
first crop the seed should be sown the first 
week in February, using 21-inch pots, placing 
two seeds in each pot, pulling out the weaker 
one ere it robs the soil, and securing the 
other to a small stick betimes. Stand the 
small pots on the heating material of the bed, 
and cover with leaves or paper until the little 
plants appear, when place quite near the glass 
roof. I like to transfer them to their fruiting 
quarters from these pots, whether grown in 
pots or on a prepared bed. The fermenting 
material, if to supply the whole bottom heat, 
should consist of equal parts stable litter and 
fresh leaves, but if hot-water pipes run 
through the bottom of the bed, leaves only 
need be used. In either case the bed must be 
made firm, so as to avoid as little subsiding as 
possible. Even then care must be taken that 
the plants do not get loosened out of the soil 
bv being tied too tight to the trellis. To avoid 
this the plants when grown in pots may be 
placed on tiers of briclLx^ting on the-base, 
but with a bed of soil /estnm^n tlm-dilating 


the syringe must be played well up under the 
foliage, this to be done early morning and 
again at closing time from 2 p.m. to 
4 p.m., as the season advances, especi¬ 
ally near the hot - w r ater pipes, or red- 
spider will get much in evidence.. Should 
this occur, it must be battled with in 
earnest by syringing frequently with eoap 
suds. Each female flower requires to be arti¬ 
ficially fertilised about mid-day. pinching at 
the first leaf above the said embryo fruit be¬ 
fore the flower expands, resulting laterals to 
bo served the same. Span-roof or lean-to 
houses are suitable for Melon growing, and 
good crops can be taken from a bine 6 feet in 
length, remembering that the plants require 
plenty of sun to do them justice, without 
which the fruit lacks that juiciness and sweet¬ 
ness that alone constitute a good Melon. The 
only time that a thin shade is really of benefit 
is just as the fruits are on the verge of ripen¬ 
ing, this only to be put on during a few' hours, 
when the -weather is very bright. Melons 
growing in houses require support as the 
fruits swell, some using hexagon nets made 
for the purpose ; but I prefer thin pieces of 
board 4£ inches square, with a hole scooped 
out in the centre for moisture to escape, tying 
these to the trellis work with stout pieces of 
twine. These trellises ought to bo quite 
12 inches from the glass roof. Treated as 
above described, Melons take about twelve 
weeks to ripen from the time of sowing, and 


to keep up a supply seed should be sown 
every four weeks up to the end of July. 

Melons in pits or frames.— These can be 
successfully grown, especially during a 
summer like the last, the end of April being 
early enough to make a start, and some kind 
of bottom heat is necessary; ordinary 
hot-beds, similar to those made up for Cucum¬ 
bers, giving the best returns, although I have 
grown good fruit in brick pits without bottom 
heat of any kind, relying solely upon the 6un, 
setting out the plants early in June, as the pits 
got cleared of bedding plants. Hot summers 
are required for this, and much attention 
necessary, or the plants collapse. A mound 
is made in the centre of each light, one plant 
being sufficient for an ordinary garden frame, 
while in pits which are usually much wider 
two plants can be accommodated, pinching 
the plant at the fourth leaf, and selecting two 
or three bines from a plant, according to 
space at command, training the same to back 
and front respectively. Naturally in these 
structures the plants do not require such an 
amount of syringing, yet red-spider will some¬ 
times get a footing ; therefore, well syringe 
the plants at closing time, about 3.30 "of the 
warmest days, and they require the same 
treatment as regards stopping, pollination of 
the flowers, etc., as do plants in heated 
houses. As soon as a set has been secured, 
toprdress the plants with a warm soil, 
extending it over the frame, hut not 
near the stem. When the fruits get 
the size of duck eggs elevate them upon 
bricks or small flower pots, so that the 
sun can reach them. 

Ventilating requires care, especi¬ 
ally in the case of early crops. Later 
in the summer a little extra for an 
hour or two may not greatly matter, 
but neglect in early morning means 
. scorched leaves and, probably, ruined 
plants. A little should Ik* put on as 
soon as the sun reaches the structure, 
and increased as the temperature rises, 
and when the fruits are nearing the 
ripening stage a constant circulation 
should be maintained. 

Watering.— Although late in touch¬ 
ing upon this subject, it is none the 
less important, and an overdose when 
near the ripening stage often mars the 
flavour of the fruit, and an insufficient 
quantity while the plant, is perfecting 
its growth, and the fruit swelling, lias 
often ruined, what, had previously been 
a promising cvrop. Plants growing in 
pots' often require wafer three times a 
day, while those planted out may not 
require that amount, at least the like 
attention, oftener during the week, the 
weather and the amount of fire-heat 
guiding one in this direction. As soon 
os the fruits are set, feeding with some 
approved stimulant must be given at every 
other watering, weak, and often, being the 
motto, relinquishing this for clear water as 
the fruits near ripening, withholding it alto¬ 
gether some few days before fully ripe. 

Canker is a dreaded disease ; this sets in 
near the base of the plant. Carefully 
scraping with a flat label, and rubbing in a 
little fine lime and sulphur, will usually 
arrest this, if kept dry. This can to a great 
extent he avoided by careful watering, keep 
ing it away from the stem. Aphides some¬ 
times attack the foliage, weak fumigation will 
kill these. Respecting varieties, Hutton’s 
Scarlet, Svon Perfection. Blenheim Orange. 
Hero of Loekinge, Earl’s Favourite, and 
Sutton’s Triumph are satisfactory for house 
or frame culture. J Mayne. 

Bicton , Devon. 


NOTES AND REPLIES . 

Pruning Raspberry canes.—I have some young 
Raspberry-canes which did not bear last year. This 
spring I cut them back and manured them, but they 
do not seem very strong. Now a nuipber of young 
suckers are appearing, some at quite if distance away. 
Should 1 leave them, or cut them away?—M. II. 

[Newly-planted Raspberry-canes should al¬ 
ways be cut down nearly to the ground early 
in the following spring. So many persons 
who plant them look for some fruit from 
them the succeeding season, and whilst they 
may get a rather poor crop they so starve the 













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UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
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Mat 4, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


131 


Finished pricking off tender annuals. These 
are grown cool, and include Stocks, Asters, 
Marigolds. Salpiglossis, Phlox Drummondi, 
Zinnias, and Chinese Pinks. Filled several 
basket-3 with creeping Ferns. When well 
furnished they are useful on party nights in 
the corridors. Sowed Turnips and Chicory. 

May 9th .—Filled a number of baskets with 
Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums for hanging round a 
balcony. Looked round standard Roses to 
remove suckers and examine trees and to re¬ 
place ties decayed. Divided and repotted our 
stock of Aspidistras. Vaporised house in 
which Lilies are coming on. These want 
close attention. The Dutch hoe is used as 
often as possible among growing crops. 

May lOth .—Disbudding Peaches on. walls 
in a tentative manner. The Tobacco-powder 
is kept handy, and used wherever a fly is 
seen. Coverings have not been removed alto¬ 
gether yet, as we are not quite safe from frost 
that may injure young fruit, but tho trees 
are exposed freely oil warm days. Liquid- 
manure is given to Hydrangeas expanding 
their blossoms. 

May 11th .—Shifted on Chrysanthemums. 
These are grouped outside now. Tying down 
and stopping latest Vines under glass. 
Liquid-manure is given freely to all fruit 
borders inside when dry. Cucumbers in bear¬ 
ing are gone through every week to stop and 
regulate growth. Small top-dressings are 
given frequently, as such not only feed the 
roots but sweeten the atmosphere. Moisture 
is supplied to the atmosphere by damping 
paths. 


LAW AND CUSTOM. 

Employers' liability. — I employ a man occa¬ 
sionally to do odd jobs in the garden, and when 1 go 
away in the summer, as 1 usually do for two or three 
weeks, I leave him in charge ot the garden, and pay 
him a few shillings per week for looking after it. 
Shall I be liable under those circumstances for any 
accident that may happen to him during my absence? 
-J. C. 

[There is no doubt whatever that you will 
be liable to compensate this man in the event 
of accident happening to him during the 
course of his employment under the new Com¬ 
pensation Act, which, however, does not come 
into force until the first of July next. As 
the liability under that Act is a very serious 
one—it may mean nothing less than having 
to pay a man £1 a week for life—I should 
strongly advise you to take out a policy of 
insurance in respect of him between now and 
the end of June. —Barrister.] 


Tenant s right to remove fruit trees-— A man 

is a yearly tenant of a house and | acre of land, 
which he cultivates and sells the produce of, thereby 
partly gaining his livelihood. He has been there ten 
years. When he became tenant he found on the 
ground, nailed to the walls, Apricot, Peach, Pear, 
Plum, and other trees and bushes. Since he has 
been there ho has added Currant and Gooseberry- 
bushea. Rhubarb, Asparagus, and Strawberry plants. 
He Is now under notice to quit, (.a) Can he take the 
whole of the trees, bushes, crops, etc., or only those 
he added? ( b) Does the fact that he partly gains 
his livelihood by selling the produce make any dif¬ 
ference?—B. W. 


[You appear to me to have no right what¬ 
ever to remove any of the trees, bushes, or 
plants—not even those you have planted your¬ 
self. The fact that you “partly gain your 
livelihood” by selling the produce of your 
garden makes no difference at all, unless you 
have agreed in writing with your landlord 
that the holding is to he let or treated as a 
market garden. I do not know whether your 
case, however, might not come within the 
Allotments and Cottage Gardens Compensa¬ 
tion Act, 1887, which provides compensation 
for improvements effected upon “any parcel 
of land of not more than two acres in extent 
held by a tenant under a landlord and culti¬ 
vated as a garden.” But in order to obtain 
compensation for fruit-trees and bushes these 
must have been planted by the tenant with 
the previous consent of the landlord given in 
writing. I may tell you that it has been de¬ 
cided by the High Court that in order to 
come within this Act as a “garden ” the hold¬ 
ing in question must be a place where fruit 
and vegetables are grown for food, or a place 
laid out for pleasure ; and, in a case in which 
a seedsman occupied the land for business 
purposes, and grew thereon vegetables, fruit- 
trees, and plants which were on sale, it was 
held that this holding^was not cultivated as 
a garden within the m^anin^y thi^c|,^sb as ( 


to entitle him to compensation. However, I 
need not enter into further details upon the 
matter. The main point in your case is 
whether you have or have not obtained your 
landlord’s written consent to the planting of 
these trees and bushes. If you have, you 
may be able to get compensation ; otherwise 
you cannot. —Barrister.] 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

Questions.—Quirt** and ansirers are inserted in 
Gardknisq free of charge if correspondents foWno these 
rules : All communications should be clearly mid concisely 
written on one sule of the paper only, and addressed to 
the Editor of Gakdbsinq, 17, Fumivat-street, llolbom, 
London, E.C. Letters on business should be sent to the 
Publish hr. The name and address of the sender are 
required in addition to any designation he may desire to 
be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent , 
each should be on a separate piece of paper, and not more 
than three queries should be sent at a time. Correspon¬ 
dents should, bear in mind that, as Gardfni.no has to be 
sent to press some time in advance of date, queries cannot 
always lie replied to in the issue immediately following 
the receipt of their communication. We do not reply to 
qwries by post. 

Naming: fruit.— Readers who desire our help in 
naming fruit should bear in mind that several specimens 
in different stages of colour and size of the same kind 
greatly assist in its determination. We have received from 
several correspondents single specimens of fruits for 
naming, these in many cases being unripe arul other¬ 
wise poor. The differences between varieties of fruits are 
in many cases so tnflina that it is necessary that three 
specimens of each kind should be sent. We can undertake 
to name only four varieties at a time, and these only when 
the above directions are observed. 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

Bougainvillea failing (Perplexed ).—With but 
three or four shrivelled up leaves, and not a line as 
to the condition of the roots, it is quite impossible 
for us even to guess the cause of your Bougainvillea 
going off in the way it has done. We might suggest 
half-a-dozen reasons and still be wide of the murk. 
Your better way will be to seek the advice of a 
practical person on the spot. 

Treatment of Swalnsonia galegifolia alba 
(J. This is what is termed a New Holland 

plant, and requires a warm greenhouse in winter, but 
will be better in the open air. after the growth is 
made, to ripen the wood; or, say, from the middle of 
July to end of September. It should be potted firmly 
in loam, peat, and sand in well-drained pots, be fre¬ 
quently syringed during summer, and well supplied 
with water. 

Seeds in boxes not growing OF. A.).—Seeing 
that the seed you sowed in the soil of your frame 
at the same time as that sown in boxes grew freely, 
the cause of the failure of that put into the boxes 
can only be attributed (if the seed was good) to 
drought. The soil in shallow boxes, propped up in 
the way you describe, would naturally get very dry, 
especially in a sunny position. Probably, if you look 
to this matter, and make the soil in the boxes 
moderately moist, the dormant seed may yet pro¬ 
duce plants. Good seed is often condemned from want 
of attention. 

Treatment of Lapageria rosea (S. R. Af.).— 
Tins plant is nearly hardy and will do best planted 
out in a well-drained bed of rough peat with a few 
bits of turfy loam mixed with it, and a little char¬ 
coal and sand to keep it open. During growth espe¬ 
cially, the plant requires a good deal of water, hence 
the need for ample drainage. Plant at the cool end 
of the house, and if in partial shade during the hot 
summer months ail the better. If grown in a pot 
trained on a trellis, set the plant out in the open air 
on the north side of a wall, when the growth is com¬ 
pleted about the beginning of July, and house again 
at the end of September or beginning of October. 

Salvia Bplendens (G.).-This is an old but very 
effective winter-blooming plant, the terminal plumes 
of bright scarlet flowers of which have a light, grace¬ 
ful appearance, and they often remain in perfection 
from the beginning of November until at least the 
end of January. It is easily increased by means of 
cuttings, and young plants of it generally succeed 
best. The cuttings should be inserted at any time in 
the spring, and, although less hardy than the Chrys¬ 
anthemum, they may, nevertheless, during summer 
have, in all respects, similar treatment as regards 
soil, exposure, etc., but they cannot with safety be 
left out in the open air later than the end of Sep¬ 
tember or early in October. 

Hoya carnosa not thriving (T.).-If you turn 
the plant out of the pot, you will probably find 
that the fibres are black and rotten, in which case 
shake away as much of the old soil aH possible, and 
after cutting away with a sharp knife the decayed 
portions, put into a pot only just large enough to con¬ 
tain them, draining it well, and using a w-ell-sanded 
compost of fibrous peat. Place the plant in a warm 
and rather close place with a little shade from hot 
sun for a time, and water carefully, keeping the soil 
just moist until the plant shows by its renewed 
growth that fresh roots have formed. This Hoya 
does not want much pot-room, and quickly suffers 
from excess of moisture when over-potted. 

Unhealthy leaves on Pelargoniums (J. Hold 
way).—The cause of the spotted and unhealthy ap¬ 
pearance of the leaves you have sent is evidently to 
be traced to careless watering, inattention to venti¬ 
lation, and a bad attack of green-fly combined. The 
leaves of Pelargoniums, especially, will turn off 
spotted if the plants are allowed to sometimes become 
dust-dry at the root, and then at others flooded with 
water. Keep the soil in the pots fairly moist, and in 
ventilating avoid cold draughts of air striking the 


plants; this latter evil will turn the foliage of many 
kinds of greenhouse plants a bad colour in u short 
time. Fumigate with Tobacco frequently to destroy 
green-fly. Cease using any manure until the pots are 
well filled with roots. 

Gardenias unhealthy (Bee).—The roots of your 
plants have evidently got into a bad state. 'The 
Gardenia loves heat and moisture, and must have 
during the winter an average temperuture of 55 deg*, 
by day and 50 degs. by night, 5 degs. more being ne¬ 
cessary to well expand the flowers. The best way 
when Gardenias have got into a bad stute of health 
is tTo place them in a genial, warm, moist utmosphere, 
keeping the soil just moist until fresh growth has 
been made, then, having allowed the soil to dry out, 
turn the plant out of the pot, shake away as much 
of the old soil as possible and repot into us small a 
pot as the roots can be crammed into, using fine 
sandy peat, and giving good drainage. Water care 
fully, and when the plunt is growing freely, 6hift into 
the next-sized pot. 

Planting out Marechal Niel Rose (M. R.).- 

You can plant out MarOchul Niel Rose as soon as your 
greenhouse is ready for its reception. If the situa¬ 
tion of your garden is a naturally well-drained one, 
then the border inside the house will not require any 
further artificial drainage. Make this border of turfv 
loam, if you can get it, and do not add much manure 
to it—it is better to feed the Rose, when required, 
with liquid-manure. When planting, if the roots are 
matted together, separute them a little, and lay them 
out straight in the border. Make the soil firm, give 
a good watering to settle it down,and then mulch w ith 
some short litter. Do not prune, except slightly 
shortening back any very straggling shoots. Keep 
the plant strictly clean from insects, and syringe 
freely during hot weather. Ordinary greenhouse 
temperature will suffice admirably for its successful 
culture throughout the year. 

Value of decayed leaves (Courtown).— Leaf-soil, 
when it is well decayed, is excellent manure for all 
crops. The more completely it is decayed, and thus 
becomes soil, the better it is to mix with other soils 
to make potting compost. But to secure that, the 
leaves commonly take two years to decay. Before 
stacking up the leaves you ought to pick out as much 
of the wood as you can, as this generates fungus, 
and is injurious to the roots of any plants with which 
it conies into contact. These should be burned, using 
the ashes for the garden crops. You will accelerate 
the decay if you turn the leaves once a month 
through the winter, and give them, if dry, an occa¬ 
sional soaking of water or sewage. To dig in about 
fruit-bushes or trees, or as manure for vegetables, if 
the leaves be but half decayed, they wiJl do well. 
Dress the ground with them as ordinary manure. 
Decayed leaves answer well for mixing with a heavy 
soil. 

Increasing Boronia megastigma (if.).—The 
Boronia in question may be propagated from cuttings 
about 2 inches or 3 inches in length, taken off in the 
month of August, when the growth is about three- 
parts matured. Put them in an inch or two apart in 
5-inch or 6-inch pots filled with sand, and keep them 
covered, moist, and shaded in an intermediate tem¬ 
perature. They will be found to have taken root in 
about two months, and they should then be potted 
off singly into small pots, in a mixture of good peat 
and sund, and be kept in a comfortable temperature 
throughout the winter—say, about 45 degs. at night. 
The old plant you have that is pot-bound may be 
shifted into a larger pot at once, using good rather 
rough peat and sand for it, and giving abundant 
drainage; keep it in a rather close atmospheYe for a 
time to enable it to become re-established. When 
that is the case, resume the ordinary treatment as to 
free ventilation. 

Climbing Rose on greenhouse wall (High- 
week ).—The small bud sent was evidently produced 
upon weakly growth. These climbing Roses need to 
grow freely if we would obtain blossoms or good 
quality, and they cannot do this unless the border in 
which they are growing is carefully prepared before¬ 
hand. After the blossoms have developed we should 
recommend you to cut away right down to the base 
the growths that have flowered, and endeavour to 
obtain a vigorous summer growth, which will lay the 
foundation of a good crop of blossom next year. The 
roots should receive a liberal dose—say. a 2-gaiion can¬ 
ful—of diluted liquid-manure once a week. The plant 
must be w ell syringed twice a day, directing the water 
beneath the foliage as much as possible, in order to 
keep down red-spider. Should this treatment fail to 
promote good growth, we should advise you to dis¬ 
card the plant, and next autumn prepare a new 
border and plant a healthy specimen from an 8-inch 
pot. 

Depth at which to plant bulbs (Dale Croft).— 
All small bulbs. Crocus, Bcllla, etc., may be inserted 
3 inches below the surface. Most kinds of Daffodils 
will be quite safe at 5 inches deep—that is to say, the 
base of the bulb should be at this depth. All the 
stronger-growing sorts—Sir Wat kin. Emperor, maxi- 
mus, double poeticus—may he 6 inches or 8 inches 
deep. These depths are given for gardening pur¬ 
poses, but, as a matter of fact, we have over and 
over again dug up common Snowdrops at 15 inches 
deep, Chionodoxa at 18 inches deep, and Daffodils 
from 20 inches to 24 inches deep, with the result that 
these deeply-buried bulbs generally produce most 
vigorous growth and much the finest spikes of blos¬ 
soms. The finest spikes of Chionodoxa we have seen 
were from accidentally deeply-buried bulbs, many 
being more than 18 inches below the surface, yet 
flowering—when estnhlished at that depth—consider¬ 
ably in advance of newly-planted bulbs at 3 inches 
deep. 

Show and alpine Auriculas (J. L .).—The differ¬ 
ence between these has often been explained. The 
show Auricula is the more tender of the two, and has 
been produced from a different parentage. Primula 
Auricula with powdered foliage and yellow flowers, 
with a white-powdered centre, is credited as being the 
original plant, from which all the show Auriculas 



132 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


ILir 4, 1907 


have descended. The show Auriculas all retain this 
white-powdered centre, with the leaves frequently 
thickly powdered also; but this is not a test to be 
depended upon, as some of the show varieties have 
not powdered leaves. The best test is the white, 
centre thickly powdered. The edge of the flowers is 
green, grey, or white; but some of the 6how varie¬ 
ties are termed seifs, and have an edge much like 
the alpines, but always the powdered centre, and the 
edge of a uniform dead colour of plum, violet, 
maroon, purple, and, sometimes yellow. The alpines 
are, altogether, more hardy, and may be cultivated 
in the open garden. Their supposed parent is 
Primula pubescens, a plant with reddish or rose- 
crimson flowers, with a yellow centre free from 
powder, and the object of cultivators has been to 
improve the edge as well as the centre of the flowers. 
There is no powder either on the leaves or flowers of 
a good alpine Auricula. The edge is shaded, being 
of a darker colour near the centre, shading off to a 
paler tint at the margin of the corolla. Most of 
them have yellow’ centres with a reddish or crimson 
margin; but there are some with white or cream 
centres, and these have purplish or violet margins. 

TREES AND SHRUBS. 

Treatment of Kerria japonica (Jew's Mai 
low) (K.).—It in well known this shrub will flower 
freely under even the most adverse circumstances, and 
will grow in the very poorest of soils, yet it well re¬ 
pays a little extra attention. It forms a handsome 
bush in shrubbery borders, but it is, upon the whole, 
perhaps, most effective as a wall or pillar plant. It 
is readily increased by division of the roots, or by 
cuttings. As regards pruning, by cutting out the old 
flowering shoot s annually, and encouraging the strong 
growths that spring up from the base, much finer 
blossoms will be secured than if left undisturbed. 

Increasing Pyrus japonica (F. L.). -The best 
way to propagate this plant is by layering ehoota of 
the current year's growth when they are nearly ripe, 
in the early autumn, selecting tliom for the purpose) 
that grow naturally close tp tne soil. It is performed 
as follows:— A branch is bent down into the earth, 
and half cut through at the bend ; the free portion of 
the wound is called a tongue. The branch so 
operated on i,- then secured safely in its place by a 
long, stout, hooked peg. thrust firmly into the 
ground; take care the soil quite covers the wound. 
It will soon emit roots, and in the spring it may be 
severed from the parent stem 

FRUIT. 

Warta on Vine leaves UI. .7.). —The cause of 
warty blotches ort the under side of your Vine leaves 
Is, no doubt, as in all other similar cases, to be traced 
to defective ventilation and an excess of stagnant 
moisture in the atmosphere. Give a little increase of 
artificial heat to keep the air in the vinery in a 
buoyant condition, and ventilate early in the day. 
This treatment will probably help your case materi¬ 
ally. 

VEGETABLES. 

Rhubarb for exhibition in August (F .).—To 
produce fine sticks of Rhubarb for exhibition at the 
time you name you had better leave off pulling about 
the second week in June. Thin a little of the small 
growth out, but not much, because, as a rule, the 
more foliage there is on a Rhubarb root the finer will 
be the produce. In dry weather give abundant sup¬ 
plies of liquid-manure to the roots, and mulch them 
well with decayed manure. 

Hot-beds for Cucumbers (D.).—The best, and, 
indeed, the only suitable manure for this purpose is 
that from the stable, with Oak or other tree-leaves 
where obtainable. Cow or pig-manure decays without 
fermentation, or but very little, and, therefore, pro¬ 
duces no heat of any account. After a bed has been 
made up, other manure may be prepared to place- 
round the sides, and form what i.' called a lining. 
This helps to retain the heat in the original bed, and 
also lends additional warmth t<» the whole. It is a 
mistake to be too hurried over the business of mak¬ 
ing a hot-bed; the more it Is thoroughly mixed and 
disintegrated by turning, the longer will the heat 
continue in it. 


SHORT REPLIES. 

Ima.— To give a list of flowering plants that rab¬ 
bits will not eat is almost impossible. 'The only 
thing you can do is so to alter your gate that it can 
be wired. This, in your case, Is, we should Imagine, 

a very simple process.- J. H.—lt you want the bulbs 

to flower freely every year you must allow the foliage 
to die off naturally. We certainly should not plant 

bulbs where cattle are allowed to graze.- Rota.— 

Not of the slightest value.- Linton.— Sec article re 

“Care of Peach-tree,** In a coming Issue. Wash 

the scale off with some Gishurst compound.- 

Thox. Melting .—Write to Messrs. W. Paul nnd Son, 
Waltham Crons, London, N., who catalogue the Rose 

you inquire about.- Buddleia.— See the article on 

“ Buddleias,” in our issue of November 25th, 1905, 
p. 602, a copy of which can be had of the publisher, 

post free, for lid.- Mixs E. J. Cook.— You can grow 

hardy Ferns in the position you refer to, putting in 
among them in the autumn such bulbs us Daffodils, 
Chionodoxa, Crocuses, etc. We do not reply to queries 

by post.- Highweek.—Yes. If you wish to grow 

Strawberries in barrels you must put strong young 
plants into them as early in the autumn as you can. 

- D. B., Lanarkshire. — The trouble has arisen 

through the sulphur fumes. The berries, having just 
set, were very liable, unless great care was taken in 
using the sulphur, to suffer in the way yours have 
done. We also And traces of the injury caused by 
the sulphur on the leaves. In sending queries, kindly 

read our rules as to giving full name and address.- 

Walton-on-tht-HUl.— Seeing your plants when put out 
wore three years old, you may cut a few heads, but 
only a few. It were better to leave cutting until 

1908.- Sabinas. —\\ a should like some information as 

to when you planted theyfrntyis. They lool^to US ns 
if they jhad been kept fwsoimr^nie ; 



;ed to 


shrivel up.—J. F. Curtis.—five the article, "Useful 
Hints,” under “Bees," at p. 117 of our issue of 
April 27th. 


NAMES OF PLANTS AND FRUITS. 

Names of plants.—!/. S.— Hydrangea Brelscli- 

neideri (syu. H. vesiita pubescens;.- J. D. t'.—l. 

The Common Coltsfoot (Tussilugo l arfara).- E. J.— 

1, Doronirhim austriaciim. — V.— 1, The double Cherry 

(Cerasus serrnlata).- /). B — I, The Black bpleon- 

wort (.Asplenium Adi ant uni-nigrum.). 2, The Grape 
Hyacinth (Muscari botryoides;. 3, irollius europteus. 
4, Probably Saxifraga lougilolia; please send better 

specimen.- B. if.—1 , lberis saxutilis. 2, 1 . corise- 

folia.- M. R. S.—l, CoryUalis nob ills. 2, Saxifruga 

museoides Rhei.- J. \V. L .—Specimen very dried up, 

probably Androsace sarmentosa; please send in bloom. 
Other specimen quite dried up. When sending plants 

for name, please number cacn specimen.- rijield.— 

Plant from India: Asclepias eurassavica. k'el low 
flower: Streptosolen (Browallia) Jainesoni; white 
flower: Allium neapolitanum. Get bulbs. When send¬ 
ing plants for name, please number each specimen. 

-//. D.—l, Cardamine (Dentaria) digituta. 2, Salvia 

rutilans.- B. M. Pollard. —Evidently one of the 

strong-growing autumn Crocuses, Coichieum. If it 
should bloom, please send flowers, and we will name 

it for you.- P. Perks .—Dondia Epipactis (syn. 

Hacquetia Epipaetis).- P. Bicknell.— The Common 

Butterbur (Peiasitea vulgaris), a native plant. Peta- 
sites fragrans (the Winter Heliotrope), is a native of 

the Mediterranean region.-Arbor.—1, Saxifraga 

(Megasea) ligulata. 2, oKimmia japonica, evidently; 

but specimen very poor.-IT. B. M.—1, Please send 

in bloom. 2, Tradescantia pulchella. 3, Waldsteinia 
geoides. 4, Origanum Dictamnus; should like to see 
in bloom.- A. Evans.—I, Please send better speci¬ 

men. 2, Phlox subulata. 3, Variegated form of 
Elreagnus pungens. 4, Spirant prunifolia fl.-pl. 6, 
.Hlnpiiylca coh liica. f., Juaiicu sp.; must sec ill bloom 
to be able to name correctly. Beginner.— InijKMi- 
sible to name from the scraps you send. Please send 

in flower, ami number each specimen.- M. A. /•’.— 

Tulipa fragrans.- L. S. B.— The Gardenia-flowered 

Daffodil; the double form of Narcissus poeticus. 

Books received.—“ Le Dahlia : Son Histoire, Ses 
Progrbs, Sa Culture." Par Rivoire, pbre et fils. Paris: 
Libralrie Hortioole, 84 bis. Rue de lirenelle. -—- ** Les 
Nympheas dans TOrnamentation des Jardins.’’ . Illustre 
de 3d gravures. Par J. Guemier, Librairie Hortioole. 

Paris.-“ A Concise Handbook of Garden Annual ami 

Biennial Plants." By C. M. A. Peake. London : Methuen 
and Co., Essex-street . Stroud._ ■ _, 



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In Bottlea, Pint, 1b.; Quart, 1 b. 9d.; J-GftL, 2a. 6d. ; 
1 Gal., 4 b. 

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In Bottles, Is. 6d., 3a.; Gal., 12a. each. 

FOWLER’S MEALY BUG ERADICATOR. 

Bottles, Is., 2s. 6d., 5s. each. 

CORRY’S LIQUID EXTRACT OF QUASSIA. 

Gal., 5 b. each. 

SCOTT’S WASP DESTROYER. 

Bottles, 1b. 6d. t 2b. 6<1. each. 

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GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


No. 1,470 .—Yol. 

XXIX. 

Founded by W. Robinson, Author 

of ‘‘ The FujlLh Floicer Garden." 


MAY 11, 1907. 






index. 






Annuals 

130 

Chrysanthemums, old 


Fruit houses, scorching 


Lime and its application 

112 

Plants, feeding pot 

137 

Rose Perle des .Taunrs 

138 

Annual** for succession 

110 

border . 

141 

of foliage in 

133 

Melons, Oantrrloup 

133 

Plants for wall . 

140 

Rose Rev. D R. Wil- 


Apple. Annie Elizabeth, 


Celery . 

m 

Fruit-trees for north 


Melons, early 

134 

Plants, spring and sum- 



138 

the origin of .. 

134 

Conservatory 

143 

walls . 

114 

Mimuluscs 

144 

mer-flowering, from 


Roso Richmond.. 

138 

Apple Striped Reeling.. 

131 

Daffodils in pots 

13V 

Garden diary, extracts 


Myrtles, treatment of .. 

144 

seed 

140 

Roses . 

138 

Aubrictios, increasing.. 

144 

Daffodi'e in the West of 


from a. 

143 

Odontoglossum El i inti 


Polyanthuses 

130 

Roses, exhibiting 

138 

Aza’eoa dropping their 


Cornwall 

140 

Garden, fruit 

143 

Golden Gem 

135 

Potato, American or 


Roses, planting pot 

138 

leaves. 

144 

Daffodils, treatment 


Garden, outdoor . 

143 

Orchard-houso .. 

143 


142 

Roses, sweet-scented, 


Hank, a rockery .. 

140 

of. 

140 

Garden jxists and friends 

141 

Orchids. 

135 


142 

for the forcing-home 

138 

Fiulhs, treatment of .. 

144 

Dahlia plants 

14) 

Garden vase, plants 


Outdoor plants .. 

13*.* 

Propagating-house, the 

143 

Soil, day, trenching .. 

142 

Carina seedlings, treat- 


Erica candidissima 

130 

for a . 

140 

Pieonia F.modi 

141 



Strawberries, mulching 

134 

ment of .. 

144 

Fern-case, window 

144 

Garden, vegetable 

143 

PansieH.Tuftod, planting 


ting out old 

134 

Tomato-plants failing .. 

144 

Carnations, winter- 


Ferns . 

133 

Garden work 

143 

in April .. 

140 

Raspberry-moth, ihe .. 

134 

Tropa-olu in tricolor, 


flowering 

136 

Ferns and the winter .. 

135 

House-flies 

141 

Peaeh leaf curl .. 

134 

Rhododendron Forster- 


treatment of .. 

144 

Cat -rpillar, the Goose- 


Ferns, layering - - 

141 

Indoor plants 

136 

Peach-tree, eare of the 

133 

ianum 

136 

Vegeta hits 

142 

berry . 

141 

Ferns, Maiden hair, re- 


Juniper, fungus on 

141 

Pear, a new 

134 

Rockfoil var. Glory, 


Vinery, late 

143 

Chrysanthemums, early, 


potting. 

130 

Lilies, disappointing .. 

130 

Pergola.—VIII. 

1311 

Burner's.. 

141 

Week's work, thecoming 

143 

showing premature 


Ferns under glass 

143 

Lonicera fragrantissima 


Pines . 

143 

Rose Margaret Dickson 


Woodlice. 

144 

buds . 

114 

Fruit . 

133 

increasing 

144 

Plants and flowers 

135 

as a standard .. 

138 

Zinnias 

141 


FRUIT. 


CANTALOUP MELONS. 

One peculiarity of the Cantaloupe is that 
they, with very few exceptions, will not 
force. In a strong heat young plants posi¬ 
tively refuse to grow. Forced in either 
houses or frames, the Cantaloups are almost 
certain to fail, whereas if planted towards the 
end of this month or by the first week in 
June in pits or frames on partially-exhausted 
hot-beds, they would grow rapidly and ripen 
heavy crops of fine fruit. Span-roofed frames 
would appear to suit them admirably, the 
soil being either at first or gradually brought 
up to just below the level of the woodwork. 
Failing this, any other kind of frame or pit 
may be used, care being taken to arrange 
these in a sunny position, and to bring the 
plants well up to the glass by the aid of de¬ 
caying and gently beating leaves and manure 
and heaps of loamy soil. These Melons 
would do well in pits and frames just cleared 
of Potatoes or Beans, no additions being 
made to the soil, unless for the purpose of 
raising it nearer the glass. The seed may 
either be sown where the plants are to grow. 
Vegetable Marrow fashion, or else singly in 
3-inch pots and placed in a slightly heated 
frame, planting them out. before becoming 
root bound. In no case should the young 
seedlings be exposed to a strong heat, or they 
will quickly present a diseased appearance 
and refuse to grow. They must be assisted 
by gentle heat without actually being forced. 
This can he accomplished by keeping the 
frames quite close till the plants are ready 
to go out, the sunshine and heat thus •en¬ 
closed well warming the soil to a good depth. 
After the plants are firmly planted, one, or 
at the most two, going to each light, a gentle 
watering with warm water should be given. 
Keep the frames somewhat close—that is to 
say, treat much the same as ordinary Melons 
in heated pits and frames, a little air being 
given soon after the sun shines well on the 
glass, and more freely as the day lengthens 
out, closing and syringing early in the after¬ 
noon. The heat thus enclosed and further 
preserved by the aid of mats thrown over the 
frames every night promotes a healthy grow¬ 
ing temperature, and suits these Melons well. 
Stop the plants once or twice, about three 
leading growths being required for training 
to the front and a similar number to the back 
in each light. These being duly stopped, 
fruit will be produced at nearly every break. 
When the female flowers are open, go over 
tbes* every morning or towards midday and 
artifieially'impregnate. Pinch out the points 
of side shoots at the first joint beyond the 
female flowers, and otherwise prevent the 
crowding of the haulm. Keep the plants 
much drier at the roots during the ripening 
period, but they must not be dried off suf¬ 
ficiently to kill the foliage, or the quality of 
the fru)t will suffer. 


nage, or tne quality o 

Go gl£ 


SCORCHING OF FOLIAGE IN FRUIT- 
HOUSES. 

The scorching of the leaves in fruit houses, 
and particularly in vineries, is often attended 
with serious results as regards the quality 
and finish of the fruit. It therefore behoves 
those who are responsible for the well-being 
of the occupants to try and combat the evil 
as much as possible. That the foliage will 
be scorched in some houses and not in others 
must be admitted, and this even where the 
ventilation and other details are carefully 
carried out. Where such a state of things 
exists the fault lies with the glass the roof is 
glazed with. Common glass is too often used, 
and this, besides being very thin, is full of air 
bubbles, a condition highly favourable to the 
injury of the foliage. In the case of one 
vinery I have to deal with the roof is glazed 
with such glass, and it was some time before 
I could discover the real cause, as the venti¬ 
lation and heating were carefully attended 
to. A close examination, however, revealed 
the fact of the presence of numerous air 
bubbles, some of them very small. Upon 
each of these being painted over with white 
lead and turpentine, injury to the foliage 
ceased. In some instances these air bubbles 
had such an influence over the young and 
tender leaders of extending Vines that they 
collapsed. Faulty ventilation, however, is at 
the root of the majority of evils, and especi¬ 
ally where the heating arrangements are not 
efficiently carried out. Where the tempera¬ 
ture is too low during the night, and the 
ventilators kept perfectly clcse, the sun on 
reaching the roof raises the temperature con¬ 
siderably, and the moisture condenses on the 
foliage. On account of the sudden rise in 
the temperature, if no ventilation had previ¬ 
ously been on, the atmosphere will be very 
close and warm, and the man in charge, on 
entering the houses, puts on a quantity of 
air, which, instead of counteracting the evil, 
adds to it by causing sudden evaporation, a 
state of tilings highly favourable to burning 
or scalding. Of course, the correct treat¬ 
ment would have been to have had a little 
ventilation on during the night with a com¬ 
fortable warmth in the pipes, and then with 
increased ventilation in the morning or 
directly before the sun had raised the tem¬ 
perature, scalding would be rarely, if ever, 
known. Where the early ventilation has been 
neglected, air should be put on by degrees, 
so as to change the temperature as little as 
possible and gradually evaporate the mois¬ 
ture from the foliage. Following a dull time, 
a sudden outburst of sun often takes con¬ 
siderable effect upon the foliage on account 
of the want of stamina. In such eases a 
slight shade is often of untold benefit, but 
this is only necessary for a time. A little 
whitening and water syringed lightly over the 
glass will break the direct rays of the sun. 
Melons, Cucumbers, and even Figs are 
greatly benefited by a slight shade following 
a dull time, but only for a short time or until 
the foliage gets inqred to the sun, When the 


foliage has become hardened the less shade 
the better, and especially in the case of 
Melons. A. 


CARE OF THE PEACH TREE. 
Blight on Peach-trees.— Aphides are the 
cause of considerable damage, and sometimes 
kill the trees. There is an easy way of ward¬ 
ing off the attacks of these pests, which is 
practised at the moment of the grubs being 
hatched, just about the time when the flower- 
buds are beginning to open. This is to 
spray the plants with a solution composed of 
twelve parts Tobacco-juice and fifteen to 
twenty parts of water. This should be done 
in the evening at sunset. Two or three spray¬ 
ings at intervals of a few days will suffice to 
destroy the blight and prevent its recurrence. 
Where the blight has laid hold of the trees, 
which is shown by the malformation of the 
leaves and the presence of ants, the same 
treatment applies, and should be repeated as 
required, care being taken to syringe the tree 
thoroughly the following morning, to pre¬ 
serve the fruit from stain (but not in blossom- 
time, as it would cause the flowers to fall off). 

Thinning the fruit. - The thinning out 
of redundant fruit should be done only at the 
time of the formation of the kernel, which is 
the end of June, except in yeara of great abun¬ 
dance, when the first thinning should be 
made as soon as the fruits are about the size 
of Cherries. Generally only one should be 
left on an ordinary branch, or two on a 
branch of greater strength. The branch of 
the Peach tree being only productive once, 
and then becoming infertile for the whole life 
of the tree, owing to the disappearance of the 
lower eyes, it is necessary, in order to fill up 
the resulting gaps, to suppress the branch as 
useless after each fruit gathering, and substi¬ 
tute for it a new shoot ns near as possible to 
the base. This renewing of branches 
should go on for the whole life of the plant, 
and (in opposition to what is practised in the 
case of the Pear) all means in nature should 
be made use of in order to develop wcod from 
the eyes at the base, by sending them all the 
sap possible. This result is attained (1) by 
suppressing all the useless shoots which at 
this season develop great vigour on the fruit 
branches, and only keeping one wood-shoot 
at the extremity of the branch, to draw the 
sap, and another shoot by the side, or just 
above, each of the fruits, to act as nursing 
branch ; and. lastly, a third 6hoot at the base, 
which is to be the main object of our care. 
(2) Nailing up the branches to be kept, this 
being done more or less rigorously, according 
to the strength of the branches, as soon as 
they are in a condition to submit- to it. (3) 
Pinching off the ends of the new shoots when 
these are some 8 inches or 9 inches long, the 
operation to be renewed if necessitated by 
the shoots becoming too vigorous. This 
tends to enlarge the fruits as well as 
strengthen the weak parts. (4) Green 
pruning, which is practised all through the 
season of growth when required, on the tyigs 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 
























134 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Mav 11 , 1907 


and branches, the object of it being to* keep 
down the growth, modify the spring pruning 
by suppressing the parts rendered useless by 
the fall of the fruits, and to maintain equili¬ 
brium in all parts of the tree, whilst pro¬ 
moting the development of the young wood. 

The following points should be noted:—All 
through the period of active growth the equili¬ 
brium of the brunches should be carefully 
maintained, and also that of the divers parts 
of the stem, by raising vertically the ends of 
the weaker branches, and inclining the 
extremities of the stronger branches to the 
horizontal. In the hot days, nt sundown 
eyringe the main stems of the espalier trees, 
to restore and quicken the functions of the 
leaves, and increase the size of the fruits. 

The soil in the beds should be kept mellow, 
this especially in the case of espaliers, in 
order to admit air. When the soil is suffi¬ 
ciently warmed, by the end of May or there¬ 
abouts, it should be covered with half- 
decayed farmyard manure, to prevent it from 
becoming parched .—From a pamphlet issued 
by the Socicle d'Harticulturc de Lorieut. 


MULCHING STRAWBERRIES. 
Those who mulch their Straw T berry-beds 
ought to do so as soon as possible, because 
when manure from the stables is used there 
must be ample time for this to become 
washed and bleached prior to the ripening 
season. On heavy soils it. is well not to 
mulch too early, because this naturally sets 
up and maintains a coldness, which is not 
soon corrected by the action of the sun. The 
case is different when light soils are to be 
dealt with, for the aim of the grower in such 
eases must be directed to conserving the 
moisture already present, and at the same 
time lessening the evaporation due to dry- 
weather. should such follow. I know cases 
where mulching is never practised, but this 
is on soils that are deep, and do not soon 
suffer in very dry weather. There is another 
point of importance about straw mulchings 
apart altogether from the purpose they serve 
in maintaining equality of soil moisture, and 
that is the preservation of the fruit from 
splashing. When bespattered with soil, fol¬ 
lowing heavy storms, a great deal of the fruit 
is practically spoilt for dessert. Much of 
this can be averted if wire hoops, or some¬ 
thing similar, which will keep the fruits well 
clear of the soil, are used. Mulching, there¬ 
fore, resolves itself into a necessity, not from 
one point of view alone, but from several. 
Some employ short Grass from the mowing 
machine for Strawberry mulching, but I have 
heard many complaints when this has been 
us?d, bv reason of the short particles adher¬ 
ing to the fruit, when this is moist from rain 
or morning dew. Much trouble is given in 
removing the Grass before the fruit can be 
sent, to table. There is nothing so effective 
as clean straw, and those who can afford this 
for their beds will do so with a feeling that 
freedom from taint will be positively assured. 
There is, of course, no reason why some 
clean straw should not be added above the 
winter mulch expressly for the purpose of 
protecting the fruit. 

W. Strugnell. 


PEACH LEAF CURL. 

Whilst mycologists hold that the leaf curl 
pest., which so seriously affects Peach and 
Nectarine wall-trees, is a product of a fun¬ 
goid attack, growers, jus a rule, maintain that 
the trouble originates with exposure of leaf¬ 
age to cold chills incidental to the fact that 
not only because Peach and Nectarine foliage 
is always very early produced, but that, 
forced into growth on sunny days, because of 
the additional heat generated on south brick 
walls, it suffers unduly extremes of cold 
when, as is so often the case in the spring, 
the night temperature often falls to 
"28 degs., whilst in the warmest part of 
the day it ranged from 70 degs. to 75 degs. 
What wonder if, under such conditions, leaf¬ 
age tissue suffers materially, the cold burst¬ 
ing the tender cellular tissue of the young 
leaves, and thus leaving them an easy prey to 
any fungoid attack? It is interesting to note 
that leaf curl is seen on trees grown 

under glass wlier/ the> fynp much 


more equable, and never so low as in the 
open air at night. Still farther, once the 
leaves which are first attacked by the fungus 
arc gathered—for it is best to do ho when 
seen to be seriously affected—the second 
leaves rarely suffer, presumably because by 
the time they are produced the general night 
temperature is higher. I have seen instances 
where, under ordinary conditions, cold winds 
would sweep along the face of a Peach-wall 
and do great injury the fixing up at inter¬ 
vals along the wall of straw-covered hurdles 
on end, and projecting from the wall, served 
to check the wind and materially save the 
trees from injury. It is said that there is 
no method of destroying the disease once the 
curl is seen on the leaves. Naturally, it 
might be expected that two or three spray¬ 
ings with the sulphate of copper and lime 
solution would suffice. D. 


NOTES AND HETTIES. 

The Raspberry moth. —1 enclose some Rasp¬ 
berry-shoots for your inspection. My gardener has 
never seen such a pest before, and 1 should feel 
obliged if you will kindly tell me how to treat it? 
He has tried syringing with Quassia-extract, but it 
has done no good.—A. S. Lock. 

[Your Rasplierry-shoots are attacked by the 
caterpillars of a small moth belonging to the 
family Tincidte, the Rospberry-inoth (Lam- 
pronia rubiclla), which is, unfortunately, a 
very common pest. When the caterpillars 
attack the buds, the chances of a crop are 
very small, as they kill all the buds they 
attack. Fortunately, it is not a very difficult 
pest to keep down. As soon as the presence 
of this insect is noticed in the buds the shoot 
should immediately lye cut off and burnt. 
This will not be a real loss to the bush, as 
the infested shoot would not bear any fruit. 
The habits of this insect are rather unusual. 
The moth lays her eggs in the blossoms, and 
the little grubs when hatched make their way 
into the centre of the fruit, where they do 
not apjiear to do any injury. After a short 
time the caterpillar makes ils way out of the 
fruit, and lets itself down by a silk thread 
to the ground, where it makes a cocoon round 
itself in any sheltered position it can find, 
favourite places being at the base of the 
canes, in any crevices in the bark, or in the 
stumps left when the cams have been 
thinned, or among the dead leaves, etc., 
which are sure to have lodged there. Here 
they pass the winter, and in the spring crawl 
up the stems to the buds, into which they 
make their way, and feed on them. When 
they are fully grown they burrow- a little way 
into the pith of the cane and become chrysa¬ 
lides, in which condition they remain for 
about throe weeks. It is clear from the life- 
history of the insect that it is essential to 
keep the base of the plants as free as possible 
from any accumulation of rubbish, dead 
leaves, etc. It would be well worth while as 
soon as the leaves have fallen in the autumn 
to remove all the rubbish from among the 
canes, and then earth them up, so as to bury 
any of the cocoons which may remain. If 
these methods of destroying this insect are 
thoroughly carried out there should be no 
difficulty in keeping this insect in check, un¬ 
less, of course, you are visited by moths 
which come from your neighbours’ gardens. 
This is one of those pests which might soon 
be almost exterminated in a district, if all 
Raspberry-growers would do their utmost to 
destroy it.—G. S. S-] 

The origin of Annie Elizabeth Apple. - 

The account given by your correspondent, 
Mr. F. C. Musson, of Leicester, on page 104, 
of what he describes as the origin of this ex¬ 
cellent Apple, cannot be regarded as satisfac¬ 
tory. In the first place, fruit growers of all 
classes, knowing full well the great difficulty 
always found in inducing cuttings or branches 
from'Apple-trees to root, the few exceptions 
being found in one or two of the Codlin type, 
and these, if rooted, never make robust trees, 
will regard the story of the “Pea-stick ” root¬ 
ing, and eventually becoming a robust 
Apple-tree, as needing considerable confir¬ 
mation. Were it possible thus easily to pro 
pagate branches or cuttings of Apple-trees, 
we should have long since had millions of 
them on their own roots. But, assuming this 
statement of the rooting of the Pea-stick 
branch to be correct, that by no means dis¬ 


poses of the question of the origin of the 
Apple. A branch from a tree, if rooted, and 
forming a young tree, does not in any way 
change the nature or character of the kind or 
variety to which it belongs; hence, as the 
branch termed a Pea-stick must have previ¬ 
ously been cut from some Apple-tree, then it 
is obvious that it was the parent tree of the 
branch which was really Annie Elizabeth. 
That fact is so self-evident it admits of no 
possible question. The tree from which the 
branch was cut may have been a seedling 
tree, and, therefore, the original one, or it 
may have been a worked tree, and, perhaps, 
for* all that is known, one of a third or 
fourth generation. In the “Fruit Manual.” 
Dr. Hogg states that Annie Elizabeth “was 
a seedling raised by Messrs. Harrison, of 
Leicester.”—A. D. 

Early Melons.— If a top-dressing is re¬ 
quired, let it be loam with some body in it, 
and make it firm. A little bone manure or 
soot may be useful, but if stimulants are re¬ 
quired give them in the water, and change 
them sometimes. The ventilation is very im¬ 
portant, ns a sweet, wholesuine atmosphere 
hardens the foliage, keeps away red-spider, 
and when the leaves are firm and substantial 
shade is not required ; in fact. Melons should 
not require shade. It is important to give a 
little air early in the morning when the 
weather is warm and sunny. Close early in 
the afternoon, enclosing sunshine after 
sprinkling. If grown in a house the fruite 
must be supported. The whole crop should, 
as far as possible, l>e set at the same time. 

Cutting out old Raspberry-canes. — Some 
time since the question was raised as to 
whether herbaceous perennials did not suffer 
somewhat when the old stems of the plants 
w-ere cut down whilst still green and carry¬ 
ing foliage. The theory put forward was that 
like to pseudo-bulbs of Orchids, newly- 
forming bulbs feeding on them as they de¬ 
cayed, so did the newly-forming crowns on 
such perennials feed on the decaying flower- 
stems. or these did, at least, help to create 
stronger new stem-crowns. I have no know¬ 
ledge that this matter was ever tested. Pos¬ 
sibly, it could only be so over a series of 
years. Still, if there be any truth in the 
theory thus put forward, then might it not 
hold good in the case of Raspberry-canes, 
seeing that the stems which have borne fruit 
continue to carry lenves, and are green for 
several weeks later? Yet is it frequently ad¬ 
vised that these be cut away the moment 
fruiting is ove.r. I do not assume the theory 
put forth is correct. Still, it merits testing, 
and may be so specially with Raspberries.— 
D. 

Apple Striped Beefing. -Like “ A. W.,” I 
can say a good word for this Apple. At the 
present, time, middle of April, I have fine 
fruits almost as plump as they were six 
months since. These are from a bush tree in 
the garden. Although from twenty to thirty 
years old, it gives a good crop yearly. I find 
it a strong grower in the early stages. Cer¬ 
tainly where intended to keep till spring this 
Apple can be recommended, seeing the ap¬ 
pearance is good, as also the size. I have 
found Striped Beefing do equally well on light 
dry soil. Although an old kind I find but few 
of the modern sorts equal to it for keeping. 
Even Lane’s Prince Albert I consider inferior 
to Striped Beefing. This, with Alfriston, 
Wellington. Bess Pool, and Hanwell Souring 
are difficult to surpass, although they may not 
be a success everywhere.—F. A. 

A new Pear. —The fruit committee of the 
National Society of Horticulture of France 
were recently asked to pass judgment on a 
new Pear. The new fruit is called Doyenne 
Georges Boucher, and was obtained by M. 
Finguet-Guindon, at La Tranchee, near 
Tours. It is described as resembling Doyenne 
du Comice in form, the stalk of medium 
thickness and woody, the eye small and en¬ 
closed, the skin smooth, in colour lemon-yel¬ 
low, stippled and streaked with russet ; the 
flesh is melting, very juicy, sweet, and very 
aromatic. The tree is said to lie very vigor¬ 
ous and fertile. The fruit ripens late- i.e., 
from February to March—and this, with its 
numerous other good qualities,-entitles it to 
rank with the best varieties. 



May 11, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


135 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

ORCHIDS. 

ODONTOGLOSSUM ELAINE GOLDEN 
GEM. 

Since the importation of fine showy Orchids 
has practically ceased, Orchid growers and 
importers have had to rely upon their own 
efforts to create beautiful forms that cannot 
be found under natural conditions. At one 
time the genus Cypripcdiuw was the only one 


flowers are slightly reduced, will show 
at once its intermediate character be¬ 
tween the two parents so far as form is con¬ 
cerned. The sepals and petals are not so long 
or so narrow as those of O. cirrhcsum, but 
they partake of their wavy characters. The 
fiddle-shaped lip is also a compromise be¬ 
tween that of cirrhosum and Harryanum, al¬ 
though the markings are more suggestive of 
the latter. 

The colour and blotchings, however, con¬ 
stitute the remarkable features of the blos¬ 
soms, and at once rivet attention. The 
ground colour is of a beautiful bright golden- 


glossum cirrhosum with the pollen of a fine 
O. Harryanum. The flowers, which have a 
lemon ground colour, evenly spotted, and 
marked with chocolate-purple, are very dis¬ 
tinct from those of any other Odontoglossum 
hybrid yet obtained. Like its seed-bearing 
parent, the sepals and petals are rather 
narrow, at the base of the petals are nume¬ 
rous reddish dots and lines, the column being 
white, with a soft yellow tint. The upper 
portion of the lip is very handsomely marked, 
but in a smaller degree the se pals an d 
petals, the lower part of a clear canarv-ycllow. 
The flowers are inches in length and 
4 inches broad. After the spike is cut off the 
plant should not be too freely watered, as 
the roots are liable to decay if kept in a wet 
condition, affording just sufficient so as to 
prevent the pseudo-bulbs from shrivelling too 
much. If one end of the Odontoglossum 
house is warmer than the other, place tin* 
plant there, and keep it well shaded from all 
sunshine, as the leaves have a tendency to 
assume a yellowish tint from this cause. 
When growth recommences the plant may be 
repotted if necessary, using a compost of 
fibrous peat pulled to pieces, and chopped 
Sphagnum Moss, mixing a moderate quantity 
of 6mall crocks with the compost to keep it 
porous. After the plant is potted, water must 
be afforded with care until the roots have 
penetrated the new soil. By this time the 
young growth will have made considerable 
progress, and if the “plant has several healthy 
pseudo-bulbs behind the growth, the rhizome 
of the plant may be severed behind the second 
bulb. The back portion will probably pro¬ 
duce a new break, which, when it commences 
to emit roots, may be taken out and potted 
separately. In this way the stock of many 
raro and valuable Odontoglossuins may be in¬ 
creased. The young propagated pieces in¬ 
variably grow more quickly, and mako 
equally good plants as the front portion 
which produced the bloom spike.—W. H. W. 


FERNS. 

FERNS AND THE WINTER. 

To the Editor of Gardening Illustrated. 

Sir, —I wonder whether it has occurred to 
any of your readers that a great many of the 
Ferns they grow in their greenhouses and 
stoves, and which are looked upon as very 
tender and requiring the most careful treat¬ 
ment, are absolutely hardy under certain 
conditions? This fact was brought to my 
notice lately as I passed by one of the houses 
here, on the walls of which, outside, were 
growing most vigorously a great many Ferns 
of various kinds—Maidenhairs, Pterises, 
Davallias, and, to my astonishment, Pteris 
longifolia. which is considered to require a 
considerable amount of heat. I noticed the 
following varieties growing out of the joints 
of the brickwork: Adiantum cuneatum, A. 
var., Pteris serrulata, P. longifolia, two or 
three crested forms, small plants of a variety 
of Davallia, which looked like D. canariensis 
(but it was not developed enough to say for 
certain), and several plants with fronds 
4 inches to 5 inches long of Lastrea Stan- 
dishi, a greenhouse kind which I was not 
prepared to find growing outside. All these 
Ferns have passed the late severe win¬ 
ter in these quarters. Of course, the posi¬ 
tion in which these plants are growing has 
everything to do with their safety. It would 
be useless to expect them to live in a rock 
garden, however skilfully they were placed, 
because the stones or bricks would lack the 
heat supplied from within the house. I 
scarcely, however, expected to find crowns 
standing quite unscathed an inch away from 
the bricks. There are several Adiantum 
cuneatum in this state, with clusters of 
fronds several inches long, some growing 
quite close to the gravel walk, where very 
little heat could reach them from inside. It 
must not be forgotten that all the moisture 
which reached them from inside was warm 
during the winter, and this would, of course, 
keep off a great deal of frost, and would, no 
doubt, counteract much of the cold from out¬ 
side. This, however, does not apply-in the 
case of Pteris serrulata, which is growing 



Odontojd ossum Elaine Golden Gem. 


in which it was thought hybrid forms could yellow, on which are distributed the irregular 
be obtained with ease. Of late years, how- blotches and spots of deep purple-brown. The 
ever, the most popular genera, such as Cat- plant is of vigorous growth, having large ovoid 
tleya, Lselia, Dendrobium, Cymbidium, pseudo-bulbs, and leathery strap-shaped 
Phaius, Odontoglossum, etc., have yielded leaves, while the flower-spike is graceful and 
their fair share of remarkable hybrids, slender, and yet strong enough to hold itself 
Amongst some of the most charming hybrids erect. J. Leathers. 

that have been raised by Messrs. Charles- - The illustration of this beautiful 

worth and Co. at Heaton, Bradford, York- hybrid was taken from a plant which was 
shire, is the subject of our illustration. It shown by Messrs. Charles worth and Co., of 
was shown at a recent meeting of the Royal ( Heaton, Bradford, at the Royal Horticultural 
Horticultural Society. It is a cross between I Society, on March 5th. The plant has since 
Odontoglossum cirrhosum and O. Harry- passed" into the well-known collection of Sir 
anum. the former b^ing the seed jjlreyt. A I Trevor Lawrence. The seedling was raised 
glance at the illi^njtfc^, i, i.iMv|ith the 1 by Mr. Charlesworth by crossing Odonto- 




136 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


May 11, 1907 


abundantly in the wall of a cold pit near by. 
Here I have no heat, whatever, and have to 
cover the glass heavily to protect the plants 
inside from frost. 

Some of the plants in these walls have been 
there for many years, and have large crowns. 
1 may give one more instance of the hardi¬ 
ness of Adiantum cuneatum. During the 
autumn of last year several plants of this 
were placed in a cold frame with some border 
Chrysanthemums. The frost penetrated this 
frame time after time during the past win¬ 
ter. and killed many of the Chrysanthemums, 
but not the Ferns, which are all growing fast, 
throwing up clusters of fronds and looking 
quite healthy. It, is fair to say, however, 
that the soil was kept perfectly dry, so that 
the frost would not affect it so much. 

T. Arnold. 

The Garden *, Cirencester House, 

C irenccster. 


NOTES AND ItEPLIES. 

Repotting Maiden-hair Ferns. A person 

with a fair knowledge of gardening said that 
he did not have much success in dividing 
Maiden-hair Ferns. He used good compost, 
cared for them well, but they never seemed 
to go away freely. I found that he divided 
them when at. rest instead of waiting until 
young fronds appeared from the crown. The 
young growths should be about ^ inch long 
when taken in hand, in which case the check 
will be reduced to a minimum. Be careful 
not to overpot ; it is better to allow just 
enough room for the roots and give larger 
pots later on, when required. Plants grown 
in a cool house will not need a second re¬ 
potting, as they cannot be dealt with earlier 
than the middle of April, so that the season 
is only just long enough to allow of the pots 
getting well filled with roots.— Bi'FLEET. 


INDOOR PLANTS. 

RHODODENDKON FORSTERIANUM. 
Visitors to the meeting of the Royal Horti¬ 
cultural Society on April 2nd had an oppor¬ 
tunity of seeing some grand blooms of this 
handsome Rhododendron. It is one of the 
numerous garden hybrids that wo owe to the 
Himalayan R. Edgeworthi, a species with large 
white flowers, blotched with lemon on the 
upper part of the interior. A prominent char¬ 
acteristic of R. Edgeworthi is the fragrance of 
its blossoms, which feature is transmitted in 
a marked degree to all its progeny. The 
variety Forsterianuin was raised many years 
ago by Herr Otto Forster, of Lehenhof, in 
Austria, by fertilising the flowers of the Moul- 
mein R. Veitcliianum with the pollen of R. 
Edgeworthi. This union proved to be a very 
happy one, as the flowers of R. Forsterianuin, 
which are borne in open clusters, are magnifi¬ 
cent. Individually they are very large, pure 
white, and with the edges cf the petals prettily 
crisped. Other varieties with fragrant blos¬ 
soms claiming parentage from R. Edgeworthi 
are Countess of Derby, Duchess of Suther¬ 
land, fragrantissimum, Mrs. James Shawe, 
Princess Alice, and Sesterianum. All of 
these, unless in especially favoured districts, 
need the protection of a greenhouse, where 
they flower in the spring, then make their 
growth, which is ripened, and the flower buds 
formed for another year. They do well 
planted out in a prepared bed or border in 
the greenhouse, but if in pots or tubs they 
may be stood out-of-doors during the summer 
months. A soil composed largely of peat and 
sand suits them well, and if the roots are in 
good condition, and the drainage effective, 
they will stand for years without being re¬ 
potted. For established plants an occasional 
dose of soot-water during the growing season 
will be beneficial. A free use of the syringe 
is also helpful. G. S. C. 


Erica candidiSSima. —Among the many 
greenhouse Heaths in flower this is one of the 
prettiest, and being less exacting in its cul¬ 
tural requirements than many of the others, 
it is largely grown for market. It is of up¬ 
right habit, the long shoots. 18 inches or so in 
length, being plentifcflly furnished! with 
tubular-shaped blo6flora, g^cj) 1J ^lj ^ng, 


and of such a pure white as to well merit its 
specific name of candidissiinu. The flowers 
last well, and, taken altogether, it is one of 
the most desirable of the greenhouse Heaths 
that flower in the spring. Another white- 
flowered kind now in full bloom is E. pereoluta 
alba, a much branched little bush, whose ex¬ 
ceedingly slender shoots are studded with 
myriads of tiny uru-shaped blossoms. It is 
also a very popular kind. Under the name 
of E. persoluta rubra I recently saw a very 
pretty Heath with bright rosy-red flowers. 
It was somewhat more sturdy in growth than 
E. persoluta alba. The yellow flowered E. 
Cavendishi is now making its appearance in 
the market. From its distinct tint it is 
always noticeable among the members of the 
Heath family. Two other Heaths of this sec¬ 
tion also in flower are Erica ventricosa, a 
dwarf, compact-growing kind, whose tubular- 
shaped flowers are borne in whorls at the 
points of the upright shoots, and E. propen- 
dens, with bell-shaped blossoms of a pretty 
lilae-pink colour. Introduced from South 
Africa over a century ago, this Heath was 
given a first-class certificate by the Royal 
Horticultural Society as recently as 1899.—X. 


WINTER FLOWERING CARNATIONS. 

When is the best time to strike winter-flowerinK 
Carnations? Arc the old plants of any use after 
taking cuttings? If so, what treatment should they 
have? 1 have a few young plants, about 18 inches 
high, that have not yet flowered. Should I let these 
grow on to flower or cut them hack? Any information 
will greatly oblige.—J. H. 

[If we reply directly to your first inquiry, 
“as to the best time to strike winter-flowering 
Carnations,” our answer would be that we 
know of no best time between November and 
April, a somewhat extended season, and one 
likely to suit most growers of these plants. 
It is quite another matter, however, if there 
be some special object in view, such as desir¬ 
ing to flower the plants at any given season, 
for then specific instructions would be neces¬ 
sary throughout, not merely as to rooting the 
cuttings, but as to the subsequent stopping 
and general treatment. Assuming your chief 
desire to be to obtain good flowering plants 
during the winter months, the matter is 
easier. When the plants are required for 
early winter flowering—that is to sav. from 
November onwards—the cuttings should bo 
rooted during December and January, ami 
on to the middle or end of April. At all 
times it is important that the cuttings 1 k> 
fresh and strong. Poor, weakly cuttings not 
only take much longer to root, but they rarely 
make good plants, even though roots are 
formed. Wliero autumn cuttings are avail¬ 
able. there is much to be said in their favour, 
provided such cuttings are as described 
above. If such as these are not forthcoming, 
attention should be paid to the earliest flower¬ 
ing examples under glass, and, if need be, 
when a few only arc required, the sacrifice of 
a flowering growth will give the necessary 
cuttings later on. Good cuttings are those 
made to a joint, and not less than 4 inches 
long. Small cuttings—the 2-inch long bits— 
are not only small at the start, but they 
usually remain so, and for this reason we 
strongly recommend a good shoot of from 
4 inches to 6 inches long. Such a cutting, 
when rooted, bears some resemblance to a 
young, vigorous plant—quite a different tiling 
from the 2 inch cutting. In propagating 
these the point is too frequently ignored that 
the larger the basal area of the cutting the 
greater the possibilities of root production. 
A cutting of a soft-wooded plant made to a 
joint is infinitely superior to one made to a 
heel, and because of the larger exposed area 
to the possibilities of root production so also 
are the chances of building up quickly a 
strong plant. 

Old plants intended for the production of 
cuttings should always be grown cool, as only 
in this wav are good healthy cuttings pro¬ 
duced. All cuttings should be made to a 
joint— i.e., cut clean across immediately below 
a pair of leaves. When using pots for the 
cuttings we employ equal proportions of 
drainage, sandy loam, and pure sand. For 
example, a 5-inch pot prepared for cuttings 
would contain one-third crocks, one-third 
soil, and one-third sand, the cuttings resting 
in the pure sand. A bottom heat of 70 deg?, 


and a top heat of 50 degs. will produce rooted 
plants in about three weeks. The high tem¬ 
perature of a stove is about the worst place 
possible, and a dung-frame is infinitely 
superior. Not less important than rooting 
the cuttings is to see to it that no time is 
lost in potting them off. The same remark 
applies to subsequent work also. Old plants 
that have given cuttings may still be of ser¬ 
vice, but it will depend entirely upon the 
slants themselves. If the plants are fresh- 
ooking and healthy, pot them on into larger 
pots for flowering again. The 18-inch high 
plants you refer to will probably flower a few' 
weeks hence, and if the blossoms will not 
then be so much valued, you had better at 
once slop them and grow the plants on for 
autumn blooming. These Carnations must 
never be cut back into old or bard wood. The 
many varieties now in commerce vary con¬ 
siderably, and some knowledge of the variety 
is desirable before precise details can be 
given as to stopping, etc.] 


DISAPPOINTING LILIES. 

As in other matters, it is far more natural to 
write of one’s successes than of the failures 
in plant-growung ; still, it is by recording the 
disappointments that difficulties are some¬ 
times overcome, as perhaps quite by accident 
a road to success reveals itself. 

Many of the different Lilies prove very 
amenable to cultivation, while, on the other 
hand, some of them are extremely difficult to 
establish, and, probably, none more so than 
Lilium WaRhingtonianum, of which a variety 
(minus) is figured on page 137. Introduced, 
according to the “Dictionary of Gardening,” 
in 1872, I was the following year induced to 
purchase a bulb at the price of a guinea, 
mainly on the strength of an illustration in 
a catalogue, where it was depicted as push¬ 
ing up a bold, straight stem with somewhere 
about twenty flowers. It may do this in its 
native country, but never, as far as I know, 
on this side of the Atlantic, for L. Washing- 
tonianum is a native of the Sierra Nevada 
district of California. The pale, glaucous 
green leaves of this Lily, disposed in regular 
) whorls, render its identification easy. The 
flowers are funnel-shaped, with reflexing seg¬ 
ments, and in colour pale purplish, but in 
this respect there is a good deal of indi¬ 
vidual variation. A notable feature of the 
bulbs is their eurious oblique shape, with the 
creeping character common, but in a much 
less pronounced manner, in some of the other 
North American Lilies. A considerable num¬ 
ber of bulbs is imported every year, and 
some of them will bloom for two or three 
seasons, but in nearly all enses they gradu¬ 
ally deteriorate. At the same time, the bulb 
does not quickly decay, as some kinds do, 
but gradually becomes weaker until it finally 
succumbs. The greatest success in its cul¬ 
ture has been achieved in soil with a large 
proportion of sandy grit, and in a fairly 
moist, though effectually drained, spot. 
Partial shade, too, is very necessary to its 
well doing. Beside the variety minus, which 
is smaller in all its parts than the type, there 
is a second form (rubescens), often referred 
to as a distinct species, under the name of 
Lilium rubescens. The bulb of this is smaller 
and more regular in shape, while the growth 
is more slender and the leaves narrower. 
The flowers, too, are smaller, somewhat 
deeper in colour, and disposed generally in 
a small umbel. While some few people may 
succeed with Lilium Washingtonianum, the 
general verdict must, I think, be that it is 
without doubt a disappointing Lily. 

Another Californian species, viz., L. Hum- 
boldti, may be included here. It is not so 
uniformly disappointing as L. Washing- 
tonianum, but is most erratic in its be¬ 
haviour. Occasionally it will thrive admir¬ 
ably—at least, for a time—and what is parti¬ 
cularly puzzling to the cultivator is that these 
bursts of success are often under widely dif¬ 
ferent conditions. A well-drained, not too 
heavy, loam seems, as a rule, to suit it best. 
Some of the imported bulbs of this Lily are 
very large, though, as a rule, the huge speci¬ 
mens often sent here from twenty to twenty- 
five years ago rarely put in an appearance 
nowadays. A deep soil is very necessary for 




May 11, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


137 


L. Humboldti, as tho stout roots penetrate flower well the first season, but, os a rule, liberal pot-room, to be followed by proper 
to a considerable depth. When at its best, they deteriorate afterwards, though to this attention up to the time the foliage ripens off. 
L. Humboldti is a most beautiful Lily, the exceptions may lie met with. The sudden In such circumstances as those we indicate a 
drooping, gracefully-disposed blossoms being collapse of apparently healthy examples of better flowering would result in the second 
of a bright reddish-yellow, spotted with Lilium auratum just as the flower-buds are year. It is another matter, however, when 
maroon. The variety magnifleum is a very well developed is a most undesirable feature, the bulbs in the first year are tightly packed 
distinct and delightful form. This, which I will just mention one more Lily which well into quite small pots, for then there is but 
occurs in Southern California, has the crim- comes under the above heading. This is what little opportunity for development. You 
son blotches on the petals much larger, while is often referred to as the double-flowered will now be the best judge. If you have a 
sometimes the segments are tipped with the Lilium eandidum. It is not included here doubt in the matter, plant the bulbs in the 
same colour. Besides this, it differs in the because of any cultural difficulties, but being garden and buy fresh ones for potting next 
leaves being of a brighter green and the nearly allied to the Madonna Lily (one of the autumn. Then, if you arrange five bulbs of 
habit of the plant altogether dwarfer. The most charming of all), whose reputation often such as Emperor, Empress, Sir Watkin, or 
bulb, too, is considerably less in size than ensures the double form a triaL In this the Golden Spur in a pot 8 inches across, you 
that of the type. It is also known as L. petals are almost suppressed, their place will be affording the bulbs the opportunity of 
Bloomerianum occellatum. A notable fea- being taken by small greenish-white bracts doing well. We think nothing is more beauti- 
ture of L. Humboldti is that in the event of arranged in a kind of spike. The varietal ful than well grown pote of Daffodils, and it 



Lilium Washingtonianum min up. 


very hot w’eather during the period of bloom¬ 
ing, which is, as a rule, early in July, the 
petals remain fresh and bright ior a longer 
time than in most Lilies, though in this re¬ 
spect they do not surpass the later-flowering 
L. chalcedonicum. 

Another pretty Lily that is so often disap¬ 
pointing is the Japanese Lilium Krameri. 
The allied rubellum was, when first intro¬ 
duced, considered to be of a far more accom¬ 
modating nature than L. Krameri, but this 
has scarcely been borne out by a lengthened 
experience. Generally speaking, it may, how¬ 
ever, be looked upon as rather less fastidious 
than L. Krameri. The gorgeous golden- 
rayed Lily of Japan (Lilium auratum) is also 
very apt to disappoint, for it is an extremely 
difficult Lily to establish True, frailly im¬ 
ported bulbs will, wi/h reasyallf ^|t^>tion, 



names that have been applied to this are 
flore-pleno, monstrosum, and spicatum. 

X. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Daffodils in pots —Will you be good enough to 
tell me whether Daffodils (various sorts), grown in 
pots and brought on in a greenhouse (just enough 
warmth to keep frost out), will, if left in the pots, 
flower as well next year? I have had a splendid lot of 
blooms, and I do not want to plant the bulbs out in 
the garden if they will flower next year in the same 
pots. My idea is to dry them off and start them 
again next August or September. Your reply will 
greatly •blige.— DAFFODIL. 

[Everything depends upon the treatment, 
the amount of space, and soil, and the atten¬ 
tion the bulbs receive after flowering. Bulbs 
that are desired to be grown a second year 
in pots should, in the first year, be given 


is quite an easy matter to get three flowers 
to each bulb when fully established and well 
grown. The cool treatment you mention 
should suit the bulbs exactly, if ample sup¬ 
plies of water be given during the season of 
growth.] 

Feeding pot plants.— It is sometimes an ad¬ 
vantage to give a plant in a pot before blooming 
a stimulant. It is also well to reinvigorate by the 
same method fine foliaged plants in pots; but the 
mode of applying such is often misunderstood. For 
example, it is detrimental to give a plant a “ pick- 
me-up ” when its first and greatest need is a soaking 
of water. I Bay “ soaking ” advisedly, inasmuch as I 
am thinking of plants like Aspidistras, the roots 
of which get matted together, and require to he 
thoroughly watered before any stimulant should be 
given. First, water as usual, then apply stimulants, 
is a good rule. To attempt to force anything by 
giving a strong dose is a mistake, weak applications 
several times are better Than a heavy do^c once.— 
Townsman. 






138 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


May 11, 1907 


ROSES. 

SWEET SCENTED ROSES FOR THE 
FORCING-HOUSE. 

The demand fur sweet-scented Ruse* seems to 
increase. It is very disappointing to admire 
a beautifully-moulded flower, and then to find 
it is 6centie6«, for instinctively one searches 
lor fragrance whenever Rosts are near. It is 
one of the greatest attributes of the Rose, and 
yet we find to day that our leading societies 
almost ignore this trait. In my opinion a 
Rose in an exhibition box should be awarded 
so many points extra if it is fragrant, but most 
of our leading exhibitors would rather behold 
a scentless variety, such as Frau Karl 
Druschki, than the comparatively insignifi¬ 
cant, if powerfully fragrant, W. F. Bennett. 
What a delightful odour is possessed by W. F. 
Bennett! One marvels that this variety has 
been allowed to drop almost out of our col¬ 
lection. In the forcing house many modern 
Roses excel by reason of their erect habit and 
wonderfully large blossoms ; but far too many 
of them are devoid of fragrance. We see 
thousands of Caroline Testout grown at the 
present day, and this beautiful Rose shall not 
be condemned by me, but if fragrance counts 
for anything, why not revive the culture ns a 
forcing Rose of the old and still popular La 
France? I am aware many of its blossoms 
come malformed, but this is due more to de¬ 
fective culture, and the Rose cannot be 
blamed for that. I have seen this splendid 
old Rose when planted out yield grand long- 
stemmed flowers, each one a perfect model of 
beauty. Speaking of La France, I am re¬ 
minded of one that seemed to be destined at 
one time to be its rival. It was named Dan¬ 
mark. It- is a Rose of remarkable fulness, 
and most regular form, with a delightful frag¬ 
rance. 

Augustine Guinoisseau and Duchess of 
Albany, belonging, as they do, to La France, 
both being sports, have their parent*’ de¬ 
lightful attribute, and these make a splendid 
trio for forcing. There are a few' of the newer 
Roses that are sweetly fragrant, one of the 
best being 

Rhine Marguerite d’Italie.—I t is a nice 
full Ro«’ f very free-flowering, and a medium 
shade of red, with a delicious fragrance that 
is most refreshing. 

Etoile de France is very sweet, as was to 
be expected from a seedling of Mine. Abel 
ChnWmay. I believe this Rose will yet be 
wanted for the forcing-house, although it can¬ 
not be compared to Richmond, a most bril¬ 
liant Rose, with a sweet perfume, and it 
should be largely grown as a winter-flowering 
variety. 

Countess of Annesley has already made 
its mark by reason of its exquisite form and 
colouring, and it will be welcome news to 
many that this variety is also very sweet. 

General McArthur is a rich red variety 
from the United States. It is one I can highly 
recommend for winter flowering. The frag¬ 
rance is especially powerful. 

William Askew has made many friends 
since M. Guillot sent it out in 1901. It is a 
pink Rose of a special glowing colour, with a 
delicate shade at tips of petals. The frag¬ 
rance is very rich. 

Pharibaer, so recently illustrated, will only- 
need inclusion here, as I cannot add anything 
to what was written then, unless it be to urge 
all who do not possess the Rose to do so as 
scon as possible. 

Mme. Charles de Luze is a Viscountess 
Folkestone sort of Rose, with rich yellowish 
shading. It is a grand garden sort, with a 
sweet Violet-like perfume. 

Gustave Gkunkkwald, by reason of its 
stately growth, will replace many of the older 
sorts of a light carmine shade. It is a charm¬ 
ing flower, not too full, and very sweet. 

Aurora, when well thinned and disbudded, 
will yield really grand show blooms, rather 
flat, but extremely pretty, and very sweet. If 
left to itself the enormous clusters do not 
allow the blooms to develop satisfactorily, 
and this Rose is one that well repays the 
thinning. ► 

Mme. Ravary is becoming a general 
favourite, and no on»''T*ho knew thj* Rose 
doublet but that it ^Y 0 j|^y 5 C' 0 flOaJi|? its 


way, and become an established favourite. 
What a glorious colour! I like to sec it best 
when grown cool. The buds are very rich 
in their golden yellow, but when fully open 
the almost semi-double flowers are a rich 
orange-yellow. 

Mme. Leon Pain is a b-autiful mingling 
of Caroline Testout and Souvenir de 
Catherine Guillot, the latter’s influence as 
pollen-parent being evident at the base of 
petals. It is sweet, but not especially so. 

Mrs. Harvey Thomas is a Cactus 
Dahlia-like flower of a delightful bright car¬ 
mine colour. It is very fragrant. 

Farben KONiui n has somehow failed to 
attract much attention, although by reason 
of its intense colouring it should be largely- 
grown. The colour is a carmine-rose, hut 
of a wonderful glow, which cannot be faith¬ 
fully described. Under glass its dominant 
shade is almost red. 

Of the older sorts that are especially frag 
rant are two which I should like to see 
placed again in the lists of our Ro«e-grower3, 
and they are Goubault- and Mme. de St. 
Joseph. Under glass both of these are de¬ 
lightfully fragrant. Other fragrant sorts are 
Devoniensis, a grand old Rose; Souvenir 
d’un Ami, of which Dean Hole says in his 
charming book that he had a plant on a wall 
outside, grown so high that a thrush built 
her nest in its branches. How we should 
love to see such plant* now, and yet 1 do 
not see why we should not. People are not 
alive to the possibilities of these Roses for 
climbing. In my opinion they are far more 
satisfactory than the so-called climbers. I 
have seen Souvenir d’un Ami quite at the 
top of lofty, upright supports of the green¬ 
house. The white sport from this old Rose, 
Souvenir de S. A. Prince is as sweet as its 
parent, and is a first-rate white in the 
forcing house. 

Boadicea and Mme. de Watteville, al 
though 60 distinct, still possess gome points 
in common, and more especially in the frag¬ 
rance which they possess. 

Gladys Harkness, Grossherzog G. Von 
Oldenburgh, John Ruskin, Papa Lambert, 
Princess Bonnie, Viscountess Folkestone, 
Mme. Jules Grolez, Gruse an Teplitz, La 
France de ’89, Boaute Inconstante, Monsieur 
Desir, etc., are all worth growing under 
glass to swell the collection of fragrant 
Roses. 

Most of the old varieties of the Hybrid 
Perpetual race, especially those with thorny 
wood, are fragrant, and deserve a place in 
any small collection of forcing Rnsce. Al 
though the term forcing is used here I do 
not like the word. The less real forcing the 
plants receive the better for the grower. If 
a house is run cn these lines, with just a 
moderate amount of artificial heat, and not 
started too early, the solar heat ie almost 
sufficient for the plants, and one may grow 
in the same structure Roses of all tribes 
which will make such a house a really at 
tractive one during April. Some of the 
Ramblers are especially sweet, such as Wal¬ 
tham Bride, Wichuraiana rubra, and De¬ 
butante, and then there are some of the de¬ 
lightful little Polyantha Roses, Eugenie 
Lameseh. Katherina Zeimet, with their very 
distinctive perfume. Marechal Niel and 
L’ldtlnl must not be omitted, and there are 
two Rugosa Roses I can strongly recommend 
for their fragrance—Mrs. Anthony Waterer 
and Rose k parfum de l’Hav. Of the l>C8t 
single Teas, Irish Beauty and Irish Glory 
are very sweet. This is not an uncommon 
feature among single Hybrid Tens. 

Rosa. 


NOTES AND IMPLIES. 


I June, so that the new growth may he started 
earlier. If you allow all the buds to mature, 
we fear you would find a difficulty in having 
the plant* again in blossom by August; but 
you do not say whether the date of the show 
is the beginning or end of August. Much, 
again, depends upon the varieties of Roses 
that you grow. If they are Teas and Hybrid 
Teas, they would easily flower again by 
August. When the first blooms are over, cut 
back the growth 2 inches or 3 inches below 
the blossom, as usually the eyes, or buds, are 
better developed. If the plants make a quan¬ 
tity of shoots, you must be careful to thin 
them, reducing to three or four per plant, if 
you would obtain good blossoms. This should 
Ik» done in May as soon ns the growths are 
large enough to enable you to see which are 
the best to retain. If you have a large num¬ 
ber of plants, we should advise you to set 
aside a few and remove the flower-buds about 
end of May, and cut back the shoots a little. 
This would give you a double chance for the 
August exhibition.] 

Rose Margaret Dickson as a standard.— 

In Mr. Walters’ nursery, Hilperton, Wilts. I 
recently saw one of the finest specimens of 
this Rose one could possibly conceive. I 
learned that it was growing on its own roots, 
and actually threw up vigorous flowering 
sucker grow ths from the roots. The stem had 
a measurement of quite 2 inches in diameter, 
and it has reached a height of 8 feet to 9 feet, 
the stem as straight and clean as a broom- 
handle. In the summer this fine Rose must 
be very beautiful when in full bloom. The 
size of its head is in like proportion to its 
giant stem girth and height, and the number 
of handsome blossoms must be very great. 
Very few Roses are so successfully treated on 
their ow n roots as this, and the one under re¬ 
view must, I think, for its kind, have attained 
to almost, or quite, record proportions. It 
would l>e interesting to learn from “Rosa” 
or other readers whether they know of any 
II.P. attaining to such proportions as this 
one.—W. S. 

Rose Richmond. -I have been watching the 
behaviour of this Rose with exceeding in¬ 
terest, and, in some resect* at least, I regard 
it as well-nigh perfection. It is said to he a 
great improvement upon Liberty, and, as 
Roses go. it is certainly of a decidedly 
brighter tone of colour. As exhibited upon 
more than one occasion this season, the 
variety is superb, the erect pose of the flower, 
the strong, self-supporting stalk, with the 
great length of available stein, are points of 
the highest importance in the newcomer. Its 
greatest worth will be, I imagine, in its value 
for forcing and early work, and, should it 
prove a free and reliable variety for flower¬ 
ing, there is, doubtless, a great future for it. 
The principal defects I notice in the variety 
arc twofold—viz., the somewhat frequent 
occurrence of white stripes in the outer 
petals, and the quick departure of that 
brilliancy of tone which in the opening flower 
is very remarkable. Richmond will re¬ 
quire no recommendation as a variety for 
early work, and, if I mistake not, it will bo 
just as valuable during the autumn.— E. J. 

Planting not-Roses —This is a capital time to 
form new beds with pot-Roses, selecting hard, one- 
year-old plants on seedling Brier. These could be 
sent without their pots, if balled up in Moss. 
Planted now in good deeply worked beds such plants 
are capable of great development by the autumn.— 
K. 

Rose Rev. D. R. Williamson (H.T.).— We be¬ 
lieve this Rose to he a very promising one. but have 
not tested it sufficiently to say definitely whether it 
is better than existing sorts. We name below a few 
of the same shade of colour that nre first-rate, and 
which we can recommend with every confidence:— 
Hugh Dickson, Commandant Felix Faure. Gruss an 
Sangorliausen, Eugene Furst, Earl of Pembroke, and 
Ella Gordon. 


Exhibiting Roses. I wish to show Roses in June 
and then again in August. What would be the best 
treatment after taking the blooms in June?— 
Amatklr. 

[To exhibit really successfully in August 
you should have some “maiden” plants— 
that is, Roses budded last season. These 
generally blossom late in July and through¬ 
out August, especially if budded on the seed¬ 
ling Brier. But we take it you desire to 
exhibit in June and again in August from 
the one set of plant*. To do this you should 
pinch off 5on)« of t|»e flower-buds in early 


Rose Perle des Jaunes A really good golden 
garden Rose has yet- to be raised, but until that on© 
appears we must make the most- of what we have. 
In the above-named variety wo have a Rose as near 
our ideal ns possible. The colour is a rich golden- 
yellow. with u faint shading of carmine and orange. 
At a distance the golden colour is fairly well pro¬ 
nounced. In growth it somewhat resembles Mine. 
Faleot—indeed, the variety may be termed an im¬ 
proved Mme. Faleot. I am afraid it is a somewhat 
tender Rose, but with careful earthing up it will 
come through an ordinary winter safely. It, has a 
nice spreading habit, which fits It admirably for 
growing in standard form, and when so grown, tho 
»i*t of blossom and colour 
j Rosa. 

I 


arc vastly improved,^ 



Mav 11, 1907 


G. 1111 > WING ILIA' ST It, 1T ED. 


ir.o 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 

1‘EBGOLA. -VIII. 

Tills is a Him example of an Kalian pergola, 
at the old Capuchin Convent, at AinalH, 
Southern Italy, which, as will lx? easily seen, 
differs from those illustrated in previous 
numbers. It might be called a characteristic 
one. but with the happy go-lucky ways of the 
Italian it would be rash to typify an Italian 
pergola, as they are made of all sorts of 
materials and in ull sorts of places, from 
monolith stone and building rubbish, con¬ 
crete, cement-tubes or plaster, often lime 
wliit'sl over. One thing they commonly 
show, and that is a strong pillar, so that 
they do not full to pieces, as onr sapwood 
structures so often do. The top may be made 
of any rough branches of Chestnut or other 
native tree, which, when decayed, can l»e 
easily replaced, tin* strong pillars being al¬ 
ways to the good. The white pillars, with the 
fresh green leaves of Vines overhead, give a 


ANNUALS. 

Tub competition instituted by Messrs. Wat¬ 
kins and Simpson at three of the meetings of I 
the Royal Horticultural Society—via., on 
May Mill and June lltli and 25tli—for col¬ 
lections of annuals in pots, it is hoped will 
help to draw attention to the wondrous 
variety in habit, form, flower, and beauty 
found in this section of plants, and will ulso 
serve to show how attractive they can be 
when grown in pots fur greenhouse decora¬ 
tion. It is possible that annuals, iu spite of 
their wondrous beauty, may suffer somewhat 
because obtainable so cheaply, and when 
packets of seed of many of them can bo pur¬ 
chased at one penny each, the depth of cheap¬ 
ness seems to have been touched. Naturally, 
also because of such cheapness, annuals may 
he regarded as common. Unfortunately, it 
is not so, except with very ordiuary kinds, for 
there arc myriads almost of exceeding beauty 
that have not yet become common, because 
generally so little known. 

In connection with the eouipetition of pot- 


means of bringing forward a great variety, 
uud, possibly, many nniitials with which the 
public nrc yet unfamiliar. 

I would like to sco in all large gardens a 
special annual garden, it might not he re¬ 
garded ns so pretentious as a garden of 
Roses or Lilies, hut it would he one of ex¬ 
ceeding variety and beauty, and cost little to 
furnish. There is a small garden of this 
nature at (iuiinentbury House. I should 
like one fully enclosed with annual climbers, 
to have arches of climbers and with all de¬ 
scriptions of hardy and tender annuals in 
blocks to show each kind's beauty. The chief 
cause, perhaps, of the too little culture of 
annuals is their bad treatment. I»cing sown 
far too thickly ; indeed, twenty plants usually 
occupy the space of three or four, and thus 
crowded soon starve. It is odd to notice that 
with pot culture the plants are hard thinned, 
generally having ample room. Outdoors, 
where there is so much more space, they are 
crowded to excess, and robbed of much of 
their beauty and full development. 



A pergola ill the,old Capuchin Convent at Amalfi, Southern Italy. 


cool and pleasant look. The Italians have 
the great advantage of gathering good Grapes 
from their pergola Vines. 


Polyanthuses. —The season of blooming of 
many plants is also the time when seed may 
be sown for the production cf plants for 
another year, and this rule is applicable to 
the old fashioned Polyanthuses, of which the 
“gold laced strains” were thought much of 
years ago. I have found it best to sow seed 
in boxes or pans, owing to the long period 
the seeds often take to germinate, besides 
which the young plants, when they appear, 
are more easily dealt with than if sown in the 
border. The compost suitable for Polyan¬ 
thuses is old loam with a good sprinkling of 
coarse sand and finely sifted leaf-mould. The 
seed should be thinly sown and barely 
covered, and the pans stood in a cold-frame, 
taking care that they are not overlooked and 
allowed to get dry. To say the least, the 
seed, as a rule, is ionger in germinating than 
the majority of seed, buhif purchased from 
a reliable source, is bouaafo come, if lr fated 

to suggp»ttd.—W. F. VlC 


grown annuals referred to, a list of no less 
than seventy-two kinds is giten, and when it 
is remembered that of these kinds many have 
numerous varieties, the range of selection be¬ 
comes almost illimitable. The fixing of so 
early a date ns May 14lh presupposes the 
growth of many kinds in pots during the win¬ 
ter, and should collections of those he staged 
on that date, then the most interesting of the 
competitions will he seen. Rut as the 
R.H.S. schedule is issued in January, and 
seed-sowing must have been done in the pre¬ 
ceding autumn, the chances of much competi¬ 
tion seems poor then, unless it is found, with 
the aid of warmth and sowing early in the 
year, to have the plants in bloom in May. 
That there would be ample time to have 
them in flower in June is certain. At the 
most, no coni|>ctitor may show more than 
twenty-four distinct kinds or varieties at one 
time, hut lie may have three pots of any one 
variety, hence collections may reach to 
seventy-two pots in all. One exhibitor may 
also compete on each of the three occasions, if 
so desired. Certainly having three separate 
occasions for the competition should be the 


Being so fertile of seed, and that so cheap, 
annuals may be had over a long season by 
sowing early in September, and wintering in 
a cold-frame in pots, and sowing both under 
glass for later planting outdoors, or if hardy 
annuals, outdoors, in April, and again for suc¬ 
cession in May or June. As a rule, clumps 
of each kind or variety are favoured to give 
good effect. Still, a remarkably pretty effect 
is produced when some nine to twelve diverse 
kinds are, ns seed, mix?d together, then 
thinly sown over a long border. If some, 
like Chrysanthemums. Cnlliopsis, or Clnrkias, 
he tall, some of medium height, and somo 
dwarf and spreading, like Mignonette, 
Nemophila, Saponaria, nr Rartouin, very 
much of unlooked-for charm is secured. 
Anything that approaches to stiffness or for¬ 
mality in an annual garden should be care¬ 
fully avoided. Comparatively few persons 
outside of the seed trade seem to know what 
a wonderful wealth of variety annuals fur¬ 
nish. To obtain qolightejnpien^ on that head, 
probably no place is so educational as is a 
visit tq stfcnfc considt»rable_[Je«jil grounds, 
where practically everything s..kl n» annuals 






















140 


GARDENING ILL USTRATED. 


Mai 11, 1907 


is grown and tested. Besides finding know¬ 
ledge, the sight is of the most interesting 
and beautiful kind. If any wisli to have 
groups of one colour in these flowers it is 
quite easy to select blue, white, yellow, and 
shades of red or crimson by the dozen. Then 
there is a large group of climbing annuals, all 
flowering and very beautiful. A. D. 


DAFFODILS IN THE WEST OF 
CORNWALL. 

For the West of Cornwall the blooming 
season of Daffodils, except the later kinds, 
may be considered as over for this year. Al¬ 
though 1907 commenced with a severe snow 
storm such ns we have not had for many 
years, it did not have any deterrent effect on 
the bulbs, the yield being greater than for 
many previous years. The profit 4o growers 
has been fairly good, but after the expense of 
picking and packing, cost of boxes, railway 
carriage, and commission to the middleman, 
it is not generally a very profitable under¬ 
taking. At the same time, the expenses at¬ 
tending the actual growing need not be very 
great, after paying rent for ground. The soil 
is generally of a loamy sandy kind, only about 
18 inches or. 2 feet deep on to the granite. 
The ground should be prepared and liberally 
supplied with stable or pig manure. The 
bulbs can be planted in much the same way 
as Potatoes, about September, allowing a 
path between the beds, which are 6 feet wide. 
They commence to bloom about February, 
but mainly in March each bulb will produce 
another after blooming if the leaves are not 
picked off, but the blooms should be all 
picked as soon as they are well out. The bulbs 
should remain in the ground, and nothing 
be done except to keep the ground clean 
from weeds. The two bulbs will produce four 
the next year, and the same treatment again 
adopted, merely keeping the ground free from 
weeds. After eight bulbs have been produced 
they should be taken up, the ground again 
manured, and the bulbs planted singly. A 
profit should he made from the bulbs, but 
nothing like the prices quoted in the pub¬ 
lished catalogues seems to be possible. 

Many farmers could augment their income 
in this way as well as by letting their houses 
or apartments during summer; but it would 
mean trouble and time to make it worth 
while. Probably with the scarcity of farm 
labourers, and inexperience in gardening, 
there would be failures and disappointments; 
but seeing the growing demand, the enormous 
quantity sent from abroad, and the favourable 
conditions of growing, it would surely be 
worth consideration whether it would not be 
a means of bringing “ back to the land ” some 
who are now “ out of work” in our large 
towns. W. H. A. 

Cornwall. 

[With the above notes we received some 
very handsome blooms of the best of the 
Trumpet Daffodils, handsome bunches of the 
Scilly White and the Pheasant’s Eye, showing 
well that the treatment as detailed above is 
in every way satisfactory.— Ed.] 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Plants for a garden vase —Kindly say what 
would be the best to plant in a garden vase, 20 inches 
by 10 inches, in order to make a pretty and effective 
show? The vase is fixed over a bay window facing 
north, it. therefore, gets little sun.— J3TKLLA. 

[There are certain plants that, owing to 
their trailing habit, are peculiarly suited for 
growing in vases. Such are the Campanulas, 
like isophylla, Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums, 
Petunias, Verbenas, Tropteolums, etc. 
These, it must be said, delight in a sunny 
position. A vase, however, that “gets little 
sun ” can be marie to look inviting during the 
summer months, and we would not hesitate to 
try the Campanula aforesaid. The Creeping 
Jenny, which is quite hardy, would do well. 
It is surprising what a deal may be done by 
planting white or golden-blotcned Ivies as 
trailing plants round the edge of a vase, 
whilst in the centre shade and moisture-lov¬ 
ing plants like the Plantain Lilies (Funkias), 
which are extremely hardy, are attractive. 
If the vase in question gets only a modicum 
of sun. then the Ivv-Ieaved Pelargoniums 
would give a certn/namoimt of Jd loom.] 

kjO glC 


Spring and summer-flowering plants from 
seed.—1 wish to grow Pansies, Violas, Delphiniums, 
Wallflowers, Crown Anemones, Snapdragons, etc., 
from seed. Could you kindly tell me proper com¬ 
post to use, and is it better to start all in a frame? 

I thought of sowing them in shallow boxes. 1 also 
wish to know', when transplanting, if I am to manure 
the beds?—B eginner. 

[The plants you mention may be relied 
upon to supply flowers in their season from 
April until the autumn. They can all be 
raised from 6eed. and the proper time for 
sowing is now. There is no absolute need, 
however, for any of them to be either grown 
in boxes or in a cold-frame, but if one of the 
latter is available it can be utilised. Pansies 
and Tufted Pansies, or Violas, need a com¬ 
post of loam, leaf-mould, and rough sand. 
Seed should be sown thinly, and scattered 
evenly on the surface, and then just covered, 
and the same remarks hold good in reference 
to the raising of Delphiniums and Antir¬ 
rhinums. In the case of the Crown Anemones, 
the soil should be somewhat stiff. There will 
be no occasion, therefore, to use any other 
than good loam and a little sand, and it is 
best to rub the seed through the hands with 
the compost, and then sow or scatter both 
evenly over the bed, and make the whole 
firm and level. Ordinary garden soil will 
meet all that Wallflowers need in their early 
stage, and, with the exception of the 
Anemones, all seed should be sown in a 
sunny aspect. Anemones are best served 
when they are given a place where they can 
get partial shade. When the seedlings are 
large enough for transplanting, shift them all 
into prepared beds of soil into which some 
rotted manure lias been dug, but this should 
only be sparingly put on. In the bed in¬ 
tended for Wallflowers this will not be 
needed, as it will only induce coarse, rank 
growth, which is not advisable ; the idea to 
be aimed at being bushy specimens, as these 
will stand the winter much better. The 
Pansies, if seed is sown in May and June, will 
commence to flower before the summer is 
over, and probably some of the Antirrhinums 
will show a little bloom in the autumn, but 
all will bloom another year. The jierennial 
forms of the Delphiniums are not so fre¬ 
quently grown from seed, the prevailing 
method of increasing them being by division 
of the roots, but they arc easily raised from 
seed. The Anemones will, of course, die 
down in the autumn, and then it is an advan¬ 
tage to lightly mulch the bed with strawy 
manure. Pansies sometimes go off in a hard 
winter. Snapdragons on a sheltered border 
will ■‘stand a certain amount of frost. In 
planting all the subjects in their permanent 
quarters in the autumn the soil may be im¬ 
proved with rotted manure.] 

Plants for wall.-I should be much obliced if 
you would give me a list of plants suitable for 
putting into a hedge? The hedge is 4 feet wide, and 
full of soil, built up with stones on each side, with 
room to put plants in between the stones. It faces 
S.W.. inclining to West, is in an open, sunny position, 
and fully exposed to the strong winds, distance about 
1 mile from the sea.—G. H. Coles. 

[The following plants you will find do w r ell 
in such a position :—Arenarias, Tunica Saxi- 
fraga, Linaria, Phlox subulata vars., Zausch- 
neria californica, Arabia (old single kind), 
Aubrietias (all you can get), smaller Hair- 
bells, Anemone Pulsatilla, Maiden Pinks, 
Sweet Violets, Brinus alpinus (best sown), 
Waldsteinia geoides, Mossy Roekfoils (Saxi- 
fraga), Stonecrops, Omphalodes verna, 
Thymes, and many other rook plants.] 

Treatment of Daffodils.—In my front garden I 
have about 4,ono Daffodils, which are pretty well 
over. I have picked off all withered blooms, leaving 
the spikes. My gardener tells me that it will not do 
the bulbs harm to cut off the whole of the crown. 
I have always been under the impression that this 
should not be done. Daffodils, like Crocuses, Tulips, 
and such like, are rather an eyesore when they have 
passed the flowering stage, and, personally, 1 should 
like to clear out the whole lot. What is the correct 
thing to do? As a rule, everything is early here, 
and the sooner the summer show is on the better.— 
II. W. Galumore. 

[If you must lift your Daffodils, which evi¬ 
dently is the case, seeing you want to make 
room for the summer plants, then you should 
do so very carefully, leaving the foliage in¬ 
tact and planting in some reserve spot in the 
garden, leaving them thus until the foliage 
has died down, when they may be taken up, 
cleaned, dried for a time, and then be re¬ 
planted as early in the autumn as you can. 
The proper course is to leave them where 


growing until July, then lift them, dry them, 
and plant in August again.] 

Planting Tufted Pansies in April.— The 

Easter holidays gave many growers an excel¬ 
lent opportunity of planting their Tufted 
Pansies, and the ground was in splendid con¬ 
dition for carrying out this work. Late 
planting has an advantage this season, as the 
plants, in many instances, are small. For 
this reason those who plnnted their Pansies in 
April will certainly have an advantage this 
year. It would be wise, however, for intend¬ 
ing purchasers to ask the growers not to shake 
the soil from the roots, as is practised in so 
many instances. Plants sent out with a small 
quantity of soil adhering to the roots invari¬ 
ably travel well, and arrive at their destina¬ 
tion in good order and perfectly fresh. More¬ 
over, Pansies arriving in this condition may 
be transferred to their flowering quarters 
right away, and go ahead at once. Do not 
plant Pansies when the ground is wet and 
sticky; select, if possible, a day when the 
soil may be broken up and made friable. Do 
not crowd the plants ; 6 inches to a foot apart 
will do very well.—D. B. C. 

Annuals for succession.— Much may be 
done towards making a garden gay in the 
summer by sowing annuals freely in the open 
ground during April and May. Indeed, it is 
from the later sowings that one may have an 
extended show, and thus avoid any semblance 
of falling off of beauty in August. To soxv 
once only one must expect a diminution of 
blossoms" before the summer is over, but by 
making a second sowing in May the garden 
can bo kept bright for many weeks. Many 
things that are often raised under glass in 
March and hardened off before being trans¬ 
planted out-of-doors can with safety be sown 
in May where it is desired they shall flower. 
In this connection one thinks of Godetias, 
Phlox Drummondi, Ilelichrysums. Tagetcs, 
Ten-week Stocks. Mignonette, and hardier 
things like Virginian Stock, Sweet Peas, 
Linums, etc. One need not be dependent 
upon bedding plants for a long display, as 
by sowing annuals at intervals good results 
may be had.— Leahurst. 

Dahlia plants. —Purchasers of these, no 
matter of what section, should get their 
plants in from the trade growers at once. 
Ere now these Dahlias by many thousands 
have, from being rooted cuttings, been got 
singly into small pots, and are well rooted in 
cool houses or in frames. So 60 on as re¬ 
ceived, rather than plant at once, it is wiser 
to give them a shift into 5 inch pots, using 
a compost of three parts turfy loam and one 
part of old hot-bed manure, leaf-soil, and 
sharp sand, potting rather firmly, then stand¬ 
ing them after being watered in a greenhouse 
or frame, kept clo^e for a few days, to en¬ 
courage the promotion of new roots. Gradu¬ 
ally then the plants can be exposed more fully 
to the air, and by the end of May—a time 
amply early to plant out Dahlias—they should 
be from 9 inches to 10 inches in height, stout, 
sturdy, and well rooted. When such plants 
are put out on to deeply-worked, well- 
manured soil, they grow rapidly, and quick 
growth is essential to the getting of early 
flowers. Trade florists begin cutting flowers 
in July very often, and thus get a blooming 
season that extends till the end of October; 
yet they use rooted cuttings, such as are 
sent to purchasers.—D. 

A rockery bank.—I am sending you two 
photographs of a rough stone wall, planted 
with rock plants, which I thought may be 
interesting to some of your readers. Where 
the wall now stands used formerly to be a 
turf bank with a Laurel hedge on top. but 
the soil being very sandy, the turf soon burnt 
up, and was very unsightly in summer, so it 
was decided to build a wall. This wall, com¬ 
posed of rather porous sandstone, stands 
about 3 feet high, and slopes back 9 inches 
to 12 inches at top. When building it the 
soil was well worked into the joints. It was 
built in January, 1905, and planted the same 
spring with the following plants:—Arabis, 
white, single, double, and variegated; Au¬ 
brietias, Alyssum saxatile, Cistus, Helianthe- 
raum, Antirrhinum, Veronica montana, dwarf 
Wallflowers. Dianthus, Stoneerops, Thymus 
cpeciaeus, Sempervivums, and several others. 
On the top of the wall is a herbaceous border 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



Mat 11, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Ill 


about 4 feet wide, and at the foot of the wall 
a narrow border planted with Violas, Fox¬ 
gloves, Hollyhocks, Stonecrops,, Wallflowers, 
Campanulas, Lilium auratuni, etc.* Some of 
the alpine plants now form masses nearly 
2 feet through ; they were planted between 
the joints of the stones, and watered with a 
sprayer. The first year Ivy-leaved Pelar¬ 
goniums and Nasturtiums were planted on 
the top to hang down for a covering. At the 
time of writing it is one mass of bloom. There 
is something m bloom from early spring till 
late in the autumn, and I am sure it well 
repays for the little trouble spent on it.— 
J. J. Causon, The Priory , Godstone , Surrey. 

[Many thanks for photographs, which, un¬ 
fortunately, are too much reduced to show 
the beauty of the plants.— Ed.] 

Zinnias. —In the majority of cases Zinnias 
are sown too soon, as among the so-called 
half-hardy annuals few, if any, are more ten¬ 


lcss they can send their roots well down they 
are sure to suffer when dry weather sets in. 
The way Zinnias look best is in masses in 
large beds. In planting, they should be 
placed at least a foot apart, as they must 
have a fair amount of room, their habit being 
strong and branching, and the plants forming 
sturdy little bushes when they have space to 
develop.—S. 

P^EONIA EMODI. 

Introduced from the Himalayas in 1868, 
this beautiful Picony is still rare in gardens, 
although it docs not seem a very difficult 
plant to manage if given a moderately shady 
and moist position. The flowers are white, 
from 3 inches to 4 inches in diameter, and in 
strong specimens are borne two or three 
together on stems 2 feet high. The leaves 
are thin and glabrous, the lower ones being | 



Paeonia Emodi. From a photograph in the Botanic’Garden, Cambridge. 


der, and it frequently happens that they get 
a cheek under glass from cold, and a more 
severe one after being planted out in the 
open. To prevent any risks it is far better 
to defer the raising of the plants till May, 
which is quite soon enough, as they grow at 
a rapid rate after that time, and are always 
superior in every way to those raised sooner, 
which, from being stunted at the start, gener¬ 
ally dwindle, and if they do not are slow in 
recovering. The plan I pursue is to sow in 
shallow boxes filled with fine soil, and on 
this, after having been watered, the seed is 
scattered thinly. The boxes are then placed 
in gentle heat, where the seed quickly ger¬ 
minates. To keep the plants from becoming 
drawn and have them stocky and strong, it is 
necessary to stand them up close to the glass 
and give air whenever the weather is favour¬ 
able. Like most annuals. Zinnias delight in 
deep rich land, and the' 'Sround 
should be well manured 



divided into twenty or thirty lanceolate 
segments. E. J. Allard. 

Burser's Rockfoil var. Glory.— This very beauti¬ 
ful form of Saxifraga Burseriana, which received an 
award of merit at a recent meeting of the Royal 
Horticultural Society’s Floral Committee, is an ac¬ 
quisition. A nice plant, which I have had since Inst 
summer, has given some of its beautiful white flowers, 
comparatively lurge for a S. Burseriana. while the 
bright stems and buds, with the charming foliage, 
made a little picture on the rock garden. Another 
good form is speciosa, rather dwarfer here when in 
bloom than Glory, and not very widely known. All 
these Burseriana varieties should have occasional 
top-dressings, and 6ome fine sand and peat or fine 
loam mixed with Band worked in well among the 
foliage. It is also desirable to propagate fresh 
plants by division occasionally, as large ones are 
almost certain to become brown towards the centre, 
and to die off eventually.—S. Arnott. 

Index to Volume XXVIII.— The binding covers 
(price Is. 6d. each, post free. Is. 9d.) and Index (3d., 
post free, 3]d.) for Volume XXV1I1. are now ready, 
and may be had of all newsagents, or of the Pub¬ 
lisher, post free, 2 s. for the twp. 


GARDEN PESTS AND FRIENDS* 

NOTES AND REPLIES. 

The Gooseberry caterpillar. —Would you kindly 
infoim me through the medium of your valuable 
paper the cause of caterpillars attacking my Goose- 
berry-bushes? Every year these insects appear and 
cat off every leaf, consequently the crop of berries is 
very poor. Would spraying the bushes be of any 
good?—R. H. C. 

[There are few gardens which are not 
annually troubled in a greater or less degree 
with this terrible post. Its ravages not only 
affect the present year’s crop, but are the 
forerunner of puny wood and buds in the 
future. Many so-called remedies are recom¬ 
mended, many of which are positively danger¬ 
ous, the insecticides themselves being of a 
poisonous nature. A good plan is to tho¬ 
roughly well dust the lower portions of the 
bushes with soot and lime, doing it in an 
upward direction, and, of course, directly the 
pest is noticed. Use the soot and lime in 
equal proportions ; this brings all the cater¬ 
pillars down to the ground, when a second 
dusting can be given them, which proves 
fatal. This stops any further progress, and 
the few fruits which unavoidably become 
covered with the mixture are easily washed 
before being used. Anyone troubled with the 
Gooseberry caterpillar will find this a safe 
nnd efficient remedy if enrried out in earnest 
on the first appearance of the pest.] 

House flies.—I am troubled with swarms of house¬ 
flies, almost as large as small blue-bottles, in my 
greenhouse, on sunny days; they disappear in dull or 
cold weather. Can you give a remedy?—C lydesdale. 

[You might perhaps clear the house of the 
flies on a day when they are flying about, by 
opening all the ventilators and doors and 
fumigating with Tobacco smoke, which would 
make them fly away. You might catch some 
in bottles filled with sugar and water, or 
sugar and beer, or the house might be filled 
with hydrocyanic acid gas, which would prob¬ 
ably kill the flies. This is, however, a 
dangerous operation, unless conducted with 
great care.—G. 8. 8.] 

Fungus on Juniper.— Will you he so good as to 
tellmewhat the growth on enclosed is? It is afungus? 
The shrub is covered with it. It is an isolated plant, 
growing on a south horder in the vegetable garden.— 
Cambria. 

[Your Juniper bush is attacked by a fungus 
belonging to the genus Gymnosporangium. 
The spore-bearing part is now dried up, but 
when fresh, it was, as you probably noticed, 
of a jelly-like consistency. This is one of 
the fungi which are found in two quite dif¬ 
ferent forms and on two very different hosts, 
the other form being that of “cluster cups” 
on the leaves of the Pear, Medlar. Quince, 
Mountain Ash, White Beam, Hawthorn, or 
Apple. These trees can only be infested by 
sporCvS from the Juniper, while the Juniper 
must receive spores from the “cluster cups,” 
on one of the other trec3. The form on the 
Juniper establishes itself in the wood of the 
branches, so that the only chance of getting 
rid of this pest—short of cutting down 
the other trees—is as soon as the gelatinous 
masses make their appearance to cut out the 
infested branches and burn them before the 
spores have been liberated. The spores have 
been known to be carried from one host to 
another which were more than two miles 
apart. Fungicides are of no use.—G. S. S.] 


Old border Chrysanthemums.— Is it worth 
while to trouble with old plants of early 
Chrysanthemums iu the garden is a question 
sometimes asked in these columns, and a 
further query is often raised as to how they 
may be kept through the winter in the open 
"round. To the former I have no hesitation 
in replying that it pays to keep old plants ; 
and to the other question I may say that this 
last—one of the severest winters of recent 
years—has proved that, with a protection of 
leaves and drawing the soil around the roots, 
it is possible to preserve many. Only a few 
of mv old plants have succumbed to the hard 
weather, but I have now a number of shoots 
which are pushing through the soil, and these 
roots will be divided presently, and make 
good plants fop the coming Bummer, 
Townsman, jI I T Ur ILLiNUIj Al 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




143 


GARDENING ILL VST RATED. 


Hay 11, 1907 


VEGETABLES. 

LIME AND ITS APPLICATION. 
Hitherto lime in many gardens has been 
given merely to destroy slugs and other gar¬ 
den vermin, but by its judicious use the cha¬ 
racter of our garden crops may be altered. 
Long ago farmers found out the great benefit 
which accrued to their crops from its use, as 
it opened up the soil, brought stubborn clays 
into a more friable condition, and also en 
sured that free aeration of the soil which is so 
necessary for the crops. If lime, therefore, 
has been of such benefit to the farmer, it will 
be equally so to the gardener. Many gar 
deners look upon lime as an exhauster of the 
soil, and so it is in one sense where the soil 
has been over-limed, or, rather, when other 
constituents have not been added as they have 
been drawn from the soil by the extra crops 
which the lime has been the indirect agent 
in producing. This opinion has been brought 
about by the gradual falling off of the crops 
after the first year or so. The remedy, how¬ 
ever, is in their own hands by adding extra 
manure to supply the falling off. No one 
should think of aj plying lime where decaying 
matter, either vegetable or animal, is defi¬ 
cient, unless it is as a sweetener of the soil 
where this is of a sour description. I have 
often seen it stated that it is of little use to 
apply lime where this is known to be pre 
sent, but this depends upon circumstances, as 
garden giound can hardly be compared to 
mountain tracts of the magnesian limestone 
formation, as this is generally of the poorest 
description, and abundance of manure is 
what these require rather than the applica¬ 
tion of lime. It must be remembered that 
fresh slaked lime has quite a different chemi¬ 
cal effect uj on the soil to that which is natu¬ 
rally in the soil, for this latter cannot be in 
that condition to effect the change upon the 
organic or mineral constituents of the soil as 
would fresh slaked lime. Many gardens are 
manured until they are what I may term 
manure-sick. In such soils as these 'lime is 
undoubtedly deficient, and a single dressing 
alone would be of marked benefit. There 
may be plenty of matter present in the soil, 
but yet it is totally unsuited for the wants of 
the crops which may be growing upon it for 
the want of its being made soluble, and so 
rendered available for plant food. Gardens 
which are continually being manured from 
the clearings-up of the pleasure grounds are 
generally sadly deficient in lime, and although 
such material is often recommended for the 
opening up of soils, yet I have little .faith in 
it, especially when used to excess. Such 
material forces a deal of leaf growth, which is 
totally devoid of stamina. To such soils ns 
these lime would be of marked benefit. It 
would also have the same effect on peaty or 
boggy soils. On such soils as these the Pea 
crop is never very good unless freely limed, 
as this is essentially a lime-loving plant. 

The importance of first applying the lime 
in a hot state cannot be over-estimated, for it 
is impossible for exhausted liine to have the 
same effect upon the soil, although to a cer¬ 
tain extent it would add to the free working 
of the soil and also slightly enter into the 
composition of the plant. The quantity to 
apply will vary according to the condition of 
the land : from 50 bushels to 100 bushels per 
aero might be applied with advantage, the 
latter quantity where an excess of humus is 
known to be present, or even on sour and 
unworkable land. The quantity may appear 
excessive, but it must he remembered that, 
when forked into the top 10 inches or 1 foot 
of soil, the percentage is very small. 

The manner of applying the lime and also 
the season of the year are the next considera¬ 
tions. It is best applied by either spreading 
it over the surface and as soon as slaked fork¬ 
ing it in, or either distributing it in small 
heaps, and as soon as slaked spreading it 
over tlie surface and forking it in. The lime 
must be slaked either by the atmosphere or 
falling rain, as no attempt must be made to 
slake it by pouring water over the heaps. 
The best season to apply the lime is more 
often a matter of convenience than for the 
more immediate benefit of the following crop. 
As a rule, the lim^-4^ either applied in the 
auhjyjp or early *)ring^'y< sI^Mie sur¬ 


face is dry after having been dug. It is well 
known that lime and manure should not be 
applied at the same time, especially if it 
should he decided to lime during the autumn, 
or much of the fertilising properties of the 
manure would be practically wasted. This 
being the case, the manuring should follow 
on just before cropping, the crops getting the 
benefit of the application of both the lime and 
manure by this course of action. On over¬ 
manured soils manuring may well be dis¬ 
pensed with for a season. Stated times for 
liming cannot very well be fixed, these being 
better gauged by the condition of the soil. 
Naturally, over-liming would have a very ex¬ 
hausting effect upon the soil, and the crops 
would probably be in a worse condition than 
previous to its application. New gardens 
being formed from fresh-turned-up Grass 
would be much improved by the applica¬ 
tion of lime, for, as a rule, some time gene¬ 
rally elapses before the soil is brought into a 
decomposed or friable condition, and any 
agent, that will assist in this course cannot be 
too strongly recommended. It is not only 
vegetables that are benefited by the applica¬ 
tion of lime, but fruit of every description is 
much improved, more especially Vines and 
all stone fruits. Lime is within the reach of 
all owners of gardens, and many pounds are 
often spent annually in the purchase of arti¬ 
ficial manures when one tithe of the amount 
in lime would in many instances have pro¬ 
duced more favourable results. A. 


CELERY. 

The earliest sowings, which will have been 
pricked out into boxes or into shallow 
frames standing on a bed of fermenting 
leaves, will be growing away nicely by now, 
and should be ready to plant in the trenches 
by the first week in June. The second w^eek 
in April is early enough to sow the main 
crop, which may either be done in the usual 
seed or cutting-box, 18 inches long, half that 
width, and 4\ inches deep, or in quite a shal¬ 
low frame. Loam, with a little leaf soil 
pressed fairly firm, will form a suitable com¬ 
post. Sow the seed thinly, cover very lightly, 
and shade from the direct rays of the sun 
until germination has taken place, when give 
all the light possible, and pull aside the lights 
during bright, warm days. Give water when¬ 
ever necessary, and, when large enough to 
handle, the young seedlings must be pricked 
out 2 inches to 3 inches asunder, which is 
best done on » firm bottom. A good plan to 
adopt is to place about 3 inches of well-rotten 
manure on a gravel or ash-bottom, and over 
this 3 inches of fine loamy soil, pressing all 
down fairly firm before dibbling out the 
plants. Water in and shade from the sun. 
It is wise to cover them by night, in case of 
late frosts. This can be best effected by 
erecting a light framework over the bed—a 
few large flower-pots with pieces of quarter¬ 
ing, 1^-ineh square, resting on the same, 
would support mats. Here abundance of 
overhead moisture from a fine rose can, or 
even the syringe, must bj given until the 
young plants get a start, when fre quent water¬ 
ings must given until the plants can be 
moved into the trenches. Treated thus, much 
better balls of soil with the roots can be had 
than if the plants had been pricked out into 
frames or pits whose beds are resting on 
leaves or very strawy manure. Standard 
Bearer or the old Leicester Red are suitable 
varieties to sow’. 

B'icton. James Mayne. 


POTATO SNOWDROP. 

Despite the fact that this Potato has been 
in general cultivation for so many years, and 
there have been so many new seedlings intro¬ 
duced, this old variety still holds its own. 
Especially is this true as regards flavour. I 
have not found another which compares with 
it in this respect., and, although by many it 
has been allowed to pass out of cultivation, 
it is possible now to grow heavy crops from 
well-preserved seed, planted on good ground. 
Good ground it must have. There is no 
Potato, perhaps, which pays better for a good 
larder than Snowdrop. It does not do to pre¬ 
pare only for half a crop; at the same time, 
there are instances where excessive land 


preparation, with heavy manuring, has spoilt 
the edible qualities of the crop. I have never 
found it possible in our soil, which is porous 
and somewhat sandy, to afford too much 
nutriment for this variety of Potato. I have 
frequently lifted crops which have aggregated 
240 lb. to the rod, and even at this heavy rate 
of yield the quality was of the best and the 
tubers large. Potato salesmen have long 
since found a large inquiry for this high-class 
Potato, the flavour being so good. Sir John 
Llewellyn was expected to oust this old 
favourite—indeed, it is a fact that some even 
planted it to an extent almost to the exclusion 
of Snowdrop—but the substitution was 
neither profitable nor long-lasting, for while 
the new-comer quickly lost stamina, Snow'- 
drop maintained old traditions. One failing 
it has, and that is, it is seriously addicted to 
disease when this is prevalent in garden or 
field. Some may say it is not worse than 
other kinds, which may be true; but at the 
same time it is a fact that much loss is often 
sustained when lifting of the crop is too long 
deferred. Much stress has often been brought 
to bear upon the need for change of seed. 
Some of my stock has been in my hands for 
fourteen years, and is still as productive as 
any of the newer seedling main crop kinds. 
For this reason, I have no intention of dis¬ 
pensing with Snowdrop. In good, well-tilled, 
and well-manured garden soil, I believe 
Snowdrop has scarcely a rival. W. S. 


NOTES AND RE PLIES. 

Trenching clay soil. — Kindly inform me what is 
the difference between “trenching”' and “bastard 
trenching”? Is the latter the same as what some 
gardeners term “double digging”? If the top-soil 
of a garden is rather shallow—only about 1 foot or 
15 inches in depth—which is the case with mine, and 
the subsoil is clay, what is the best plan to adopt 
for such vegetables as Peas, etc., which require the 
soil to be loosened to a good depth and the manure 
mixed with the lower spit in order to enable them 
to withstand drought ?—Norfolk. 

[The simple term “ trenching ” includes Hie 
other terms— double digging, bastard trench¬ 
ing, half-trenching, and so on. We grcuiK 
prefer the term “shallow trenching” to i 
scribe what is commonly called half-trench 
ing, or bastard trenching, and “deep trench¬ 
ing,” to indicate the form of trenching 
usually adopted in good gardens where the 
soil is worked to a depth varying from 
30 inches to 40 inches. Having a surface of 
apparently friable soil from 12 inches to 
15 inches in depth, and a clay subsoil, you 
obviously cannot practise deep trenching. 
Your course, whenever you work your soil, 
is to open a trench across one end of a given 
plot, the trench being 2 feet wide. The top 
spit of 12 inches depth must be thrown out. 
and, if the subsoil be hard, it should be well 
broken up with a stout fork, being broken as 
much as possible. Then a layer of half-de¬ 
cayed manure should be placed upon it, well 
forking it in, so as to mix it with the 
soil, and still further break or pulverise that. 
If. on the other hand, the bottom soil be 
fairly loose, the manure may be laid on to it 
at the first, then be well dug in and mixed 
with it. That being done, throw the next top 
spit of 2 feet wide and 12 inches deep on to 
the first trench, and serve the bottom of that 
one as before, and so on all through the plot. 
If the ground be poor, sdme time ere crop¬ 
ping is done a second dressing of manure 
should be forked into the surface soil, after 
the trenching is completed. The best time to 
do such work is during the last months of 
the year. Such an operation is shallow 
trenching. But when several years later, 
and after this operation has been performed 
tw’o or three times, the bottom, or clay, soil 
will have become sw’eet, fertile, and friable, 
it may then, after the ton spit of a trench 
has been thrown over, be also, yet for 
12 inches deep, brought to the surface, 
the top soil being buried. Then the third 
layer of 12 inches deep can he broken up 
and manured. That represents deep trench¬ 
ing.] 

American or Early Rose Potato.- It is not 

so very long since the extraordinary bnom in 
seed Potatoes, when Northern Star and 
Eldorado were realising more than their 
weight in gold. What do we find now, at the 
start of another years Potato planting? All 
these highly-belauded sort s are hardly ever 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


May 11, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


113 


hoard of, while the good old standard sorts 
are in greater request than ever. In this 
locality, where the gardens are small, and 
mostly walled or fenced in, there is no variety 
so much in request os the American Rose. 
The true American Rose is of a pale pink 
colour, and of an oval, or kidney, shape, but 
there are inferior sorts of a much darker 
colour, that are usually called German Rose, 
and quite an inferior kind to the above. Cot¬ 
tage and amateur gardeners invariably take 
great pride in growing a few early Potatoes 
that can be lifted in time to get some kind of 
winter greens put in. Tne Early Rose 
Potato meets the wants of the majority of 
such.—J. G., Gosport. 


GARDEN WORK. 


Conservatory. —Fires may be discontinued 
now, unless plants are brought from the 
stove, and in that case a little warmth on 
cold nights will l>e desirable. It is seldom 
now that the thermometer falls below 
50 degs. in a roomy, well constructed house. 
Plants for summer decoration will l>e found 
among the following : Achimenes, when well 
grown, are bright and showy, either in pots, 
pans, or baskets. Gloxinias and Strepto- 
carpi will make a pretty group in a shel¬ 
tered part of the house in a light position. 
The hybrid Nicotianas, potted on into 7-inch 
pots, make a very pretty group. Balsams are 
easily grown ; the finest lot of these I have 
seen for some years was grown in a deep 
frame and the lights drawn off at every 
favourable opportunity. Carnations of the 
American section will continue flowering 
most of the summer, if they have plenty of 
root space. Cockscombs, when well for¬ 
ward in the warm-frame, may be gradually 
hardened and taken to the conservatory; 
and, of course, there will be plenty of Lilies 
of the lancifolium section, and those who wish 
may have various kinds of retarded plants. 
Then, among hardwooded plants, there are 
lxnutiful things, if one wishes for them. 
Piruelea Hendersoni and P. Bpectabilis are 
not at all difficult to grow. Kalosanthes coc- 
cinea is appreciated by those who can grow it 
well, though not a flower for cutting. Ciner¬ 
aria stellata is bright now, and gives a colour, 
or colours, which are not common just now. 
Well-grown plants of Azaleas (both Indian 
and Ghent varieties) which have been held 
back arc useful. A group of Imnntophyllnms 
is striking, and the flowers last some time. 
The plants are easily grown. Our plants, j 
which are now in bloom, have been kept all | 
winter in a eool-liouse, and we have never 
had the flowers finer. The plants are easily 
raised from seeds, though it takes time to 
grow flowering plants. The time to prune 
greenhouse plants, if pruning is required, is 
immediately after flowering. 

The propagating-house.— This is always 
a busy house. There is always some work to 
be done in it, either in striking cuttings 
raising seedlings, or grafting. If Roses are 
forced, when the first flush of bloom is over 
the young wood will have acquired firmness 
sufficient for making cuttings, and every bit 
of wood with a bud attached will make a 
plant- in a warm, close bed. Where possible, 
a little bit of old wood forms a good base for 
a cluster of roots, but any bit of wood with a 
joint will form' roots, if cut at that joint. The 
best plunging-bed is a thick layer of Cocoa- 
nut-fibre or half-decaj-cd leaves, that will hold 
both heat and moisture. In a bed of this 
character the cuttings may be laid in thickly 
and be lifted out and potted as soon os the 
roots are formed. They root better and more 
quickly when placed direct into the moist 
fibre or leaves than when placed in soil in 
pots or boxes, but the plants should be potted 
up before the roots extend, and the soil 
should lx? of the same temperature as the 
bed. When potted, the little plants should be 
kept warm and comfortable for a time; 
afterwards they may be hardened off and 
planted out in beds, and will flower in the 
autumn. It is, of course, not of much use to 
propagate these plants which are not a suc¬ 
cess on their own roots in this wav, but we do 
not as a rule, force delicate varieties, so we 
are* generally safe in/tHfring cuttingel for the 
forced plants. 


n/ttrtring cuttings] for 

Go gie 


Ferns under glass. —Young plants from 
spores that were sown in autumn will soon 
be ready for pricking off into boxes. This is 
best done in tufts, as better pluut-s arc ob¬ 
tained in this way. Small plants of choice 
kinds should be shifted on before they be¬ 
come pot-bound. Young plants should al¬ 
ways be helped on in heat; even the kinds 
which do in a cool greenhouse move very 
slowly when young, unless they are made com¬ 
fortable. They want moist surroundings, but 
not too much water at the root, till some pro¬ 
gress has been made. A plant with a potful 
of hungry roots will take a good deal to drink, 
and a little stimulant in the water will be 
beneficial once a week or so. This treat¬ 
ment will he harmful till roots are abundant. 
All Ferns must have a little shade now. Per¬ 
manent blinds are expensive, hut summer 
cloud is cheap ami easily applied. 

Orchard-house. A top dressing of rich 
compost will lx* useful to trees bearing a 
full crop. Where necessary, a rim of zinc 
can lx* fitted round the top of the pot, to pre¬ 
vent water flowing over. The roots will soon 
find the fresh supply of food, and it will be 
more beneficial tliau doing too much with 
strong liquids. The final thinning of the 
young shoots may he given now. and. if neces¬ 
sary, to improve the sha|>e and symmetry of 
the tree, an old shoot, if fruitless, may lx 
shortened back. Give daily syringings in 
bright weather (especially in the afternoon), 
and close with a moist atmosphere. This 
treatment will cause the fruits to swell 
rapidly, and red-spider will not live under 
such conditions. In the evenings a little 
ventilation may be given along the ridge. 

Late Vinery. Do not let the night tem¬ 
perature fall below CO degs. This will allow' 
.of a little chink of air being given last thing 
at night, when the weather is favourable. 
There will be a good deal of work now in 
regulating growth. Tie the shoots out at 
regular distances apart, so that the foliage 
may have room for full development. Do not 
permit inside borders to get too dry. The de¬ 
mand upon the roots is not so heavy now as 
it will be later, but it is difficult to moisten a 
very dry spot even when we know where the 
spot is, and can loosen the surface with a 
fork. No gardener will permit his inside 
borders to remain dry. The dry places are 
usually found near the hot-water pipes. 

Pines. It is usual to have special times 
for overhauling the Pines, setting all hands 
on the work to get it done speedily. Suckers 
may lx taken off and old stools cleared away 
when desirable, without waiting for a special 
repotting reason. Strong successions can be 
made to show fruit by cooling down and 
keeping rather drier for a week or two. to 
give a check. Night temperature of fruiting- 
house, 65 dogs, to 70 degs. ; successions, 
60 dogs, to 65 degs. To grow Pines well they 
should be potted firmly in the very best loam, i 
enriched with a little horse-manure, bone- j 
meal, and a sprinkling of soot. The bulk 
must be good loam cut with the turf, and 
allowed to lie in a heap for from three to 
six months. It will be an advantage if the 
manure is mixed in the heap when stacked. 

Outdoor garden. -Those who make a 
specialty of hardy plants will find this a good 
time to buy anything new, and for the first 
season, at any rate, to plant them in the re¬ 
serve beds, where an eye can lx kept upon 
them. Very often the new things are small, 
and require careful treatment the first year. 
Afterwards in any fresh arrangement of the 
herbaceous beds and borders they can be 
used for grouping in suitable situations. 
Shade-loving plants will have special posi¬ 
tions made for them, and the same treatment 
will lx given to those which thrive best in 
sunshine. Hardy Ferns may be moved now, 
to make new groups, although, of course, 
they are better without disturbance in a 
general way. Carnations are now growing 
freely, and if the soil is a dry and porous one, 
a little mulch will be useful before the dry 
weather sets in. Keep a close watch upon 
Roses to remove suckers. The Manetti stock 
is the worst sinner in this respect, but this is 
not so much used now. Tea and other Roses 
may be planted out of pots now, and will 
flower well this season. Only plants which 
have been grown cool, or are at least well 1 


hardened, are suitable for planting now. 
Viola cornuta is an old plant, but it makes 
a very pretty edging, or may be used as a 
ground-work. 

Fruit garden. Blister in Peach foliage is 
generally supposed to be caused by cold cur¬ 
rents chilling the young growth, and, to a 
large extent, this theory is correct, hut there 
are contributory causes, such as deficient 
root action through had drainage of the bor¬ 
der. I once knew a bad case of Peach-mil¬ 
dew cured by cutting a deep drain along 
the front of the border, and though most uf 
us know cases where a covering of glass ha* 
cured blister, the cure is more complete 
where the roots have been lifted and made 
comfortable. Blister is generally accom¬ 
panied by mildew and in wets, and the first 
tiling to do in a ease of blister is, after re¬ 
moving the worst leaves, to make a deter¬ 
mined attack upon the fungus and insects. 
A strong mixture of soft soap, sulphur, and 
Tobacco-powder, mixed with warm water and 
passed through the syringe, repeated if neces¬ 
sary, which it probably will be, will lead to 
1 clean growth, which in due time can lx 
thinned and laid in. Peach-trees in bad con¬ 
dition should have the roots lifted and some 
good loam worked round the roots in re¬ 
planting. Of course, the autumn is the time 
to do this work. See that the Strawberries 
are mulched with long stable litter in good 
time. If runners an* not required for propa¬ 
gation, cut them off and pull up all weeds. 
Bone-meal may be used freely as a dressing 
to outside borders. 

Vegetable garden. Cnrdoons arc not 
much grown, except in the very largest estab¬ 
lishments. They arc not difficult to grow, 
but they take up space and cause some 
labour. The earliest plants are usually 
j started in small pots in heat, and are then 
hardened off and planted out in May in 
trenches 18 inches wide nod 5 feet apart, the 
plants being 15 inches apart in the rows. The 
next crop is usually raised from seeds planted 
in the trenches at the same distances apart, 
the seeds being planted in patches of two 
or three in a patch, to be reduced to one if 
all the seeds grow. The after-culture is 
j something like that for Celery in the matter 
of blanching, first surrounding the stems 
with hay or straw-hands and then earthing 
up. French cooks will ask for Cardoons, 
but English cooks rarely require them ; still, 
a gardener in a large place is hardly safe 
without a row or two. The Chinese Yam, 
that was to take the place of the Potato 
some fifty years ago, seems to have disap¬ 
peared. We grew it for a few years, but no¬ 
body seemed to care much for it, and the 
labour of its cultivation was considerable. If 
the ground was rich and deep, it would bur¬ 
row in the ground a yard deep, and the 
kitchen garden man used very strong language 
sometime#, when digging it. The Chinese 
Artichoke is never likely to become popular, 
although when well grown it makes a nice 
dish. 

E. IIobday. 

THE COMING WEEK’S WORK. 

Extracts from a Garden Diary. 

May 13th .—A little earth has been drawn 
over Potatoes which are through the ground. 
On the early border the plants are up a good 
height. Hazel rods have been bent over 
these, and they are covered on cold nights 
with canvas. All the hardiest of the bedding 
plants are now in cold-frames or temporary 
makeshifts, covered at night. Pentstemons, 
where the cuttings have been rooted in a 
cold-frame, have been planted out. A bed of 
early white Asters has been planted for early 
cutting. 

May lJ^lh .—Potted off Achimenes and seed¬ 
ling Gloxinias and fitreptocarpi. Potted 
Tuberoses for late blooming, shifted on 
Fuchsias and Zonal Pelargoniums. Plant- 
houses are vaporised as soon as insects are 
noticed. Shifted a few large plants of 
Agapanthus into tubs for standing outside. 
Put in cuttings of silver-leaved Euoiiymus 
into boxes in heat. Grafted a lot of choice 
Ivies upon the 1 (krtnohl Irish Ivy- These will 
b|e grown indoors for a time. 

May' 1 t 5M. - Planted out a lot of bulbs 

tJRBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



144 


G. IB DEWING ILL VSTBA TED. 


Mat 11. 1907 


which have been forced. These are planted 
in vacant spots round the shrubbery. We are 
getting pretty well filled up with these things 
now. Prepared a new shady site for hardy 
Ferns. Planted a lot of seedling Auriculas 
and Primroses. A good many of the blue, or 
what should have been blue. Primroses are 
purple and crimson. This change is nob un¬ 
common with us. 

May 1 Glh.— -Several beds of spring flowers, 
including bulbs, have been cleared, and the 
ground dressed with compost ready for other 
things, Violas and late Tulips will remain 
some time longer yet, and Begonias, Cannas, 
and other things will be kept for them. 
Sowed more Marrow Peas, including Ne Plus 
Ultra and Autocrat. Planted more Runner 
Beans ; sowed early Carrots. The hoe is used 
often now. 

May 17th .—Syringed Roses on walls with 
Quassia extract. A little Tobacco-liquor was 
used with it, to add to its efficiency. It. ap¬ 
pears to have made a clean sweep of the flies. 
Lateral growth is often stopped and regu¬ 
lated in vineries and Peach-houses. Liquid- 
manure is given freely to Grapes which have 
passed the stoning stage. When one is sure 
about the drainage, it is not easy to over- 
water inside borders. Generally the mis¬ 
take is made the other way. 

May 18th.- Most of our bedding plants are 
ready to go out. We shall begin to get the 
vacant beds planted next week, setting the 
hardiest, things out first. Groups of annuals 
have been thinned, so that each plant has 
room enough to grow. Sweet Peas have been 
staked with feathery Hazel sticks, to give 
plenty of scope for the tendrils. Made a new 
plantation of Rhubarb by dividing the roots, 
which have been forced. Sowed more Let¬ 
tuces and planted out spare plants from a 
sowing made in frames. 

CORRESPONDENCE. 

Questions .—Queries and answers are inserted in 
G Alt HRS'i no free of chary?, if correspowlcnls follow these 
rules; All communications should he clearly and concisely 
written on one sole of the paper only, and addressed io 
the Editor of Gaudknino, 17, Fur nival-street, Uolborn , 
London, K.C. I jet tent on business should he sent to the 
PeiiLlMllKR. The. name and address of the sender are 
required in addition to any designation he may desire to 
he used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, 
each should be on a separate piece of paper, and not more 
than three queries should he sent at a time. Correspon¬ 
dents should hear in mind that, as Gardknind has to he 
sent to press some time in ad ounce of date, queries cannot 
always be replied to in the issue immediately following 
the receipt of their communication. We do not reply to 
queries by post.. 

Naming fruit.— Benders who desire, our help in 
naming fruit should bear in wind that several specimens 
in different stages of colour aiul size of the same kind 
greatly assist in its determination. We have received from 
several correspondents single specimens of fruits for 
naming, these in many cases being unripe and other¬ 
wise poor. The differences between varieties of fruits are 
in many cases so trifling that it vt necessary that there 
specimens of each kind should he sent. We can undertake 
to name only four varieties at a time, aiul these only when 
the above directions arc observed r _ 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

Lonicera fragrantissima increasing IB. St. 

Paul).— This can be increased from cuttings at any 
time during September and October. Tut half- 
ripened shoots into sandy soil in n cold frame or into 
pots, and stand in the frame if you only want a few 
plants. 

Mimuluses (A/.).—The improved strains of these 
have very large and finely-marked flowers, and in 
most cases these are associated with a bold, vigorous 
habit. A cool greenhouse is the best place for plants 
in pots, and if well looked after, watered, and occa¬ 
sionally syringed they will keep effective for a con¬ 
siderable time. A pan of seedlings will give a succes¬ 
sion of plants that will last all through the summer. 

Treatment of Tropaeolum tricolor «?.).—As 
soon as the flowers fade, and the foliage shows signs of 
decay, gradually diminish the supply of water, not, 
however, allowing the foliage to droop from the want 
of it, but watering only when dry, giving the plants 
enough to moisten the soil through. When the leaves 
have turned quite yellow and ripe take the bulb out 
of the soil and store it away in dry sand in a cool 
place, potting it again by the middle of August. 

Early Chrysanthemums showing premature 
buds (C.).-Tt is one of the vagaries of the early- 
flowering Chrysanthemum to produce premature 
buds and quite early in the spring, while the young 
plants are in small pots, they do not seem able to 
grow away freely. You did quite right to pinch out 
the buds, and we think you had better pinch back to 
the small stems, to induce the plant to break away 
from the axils of the remaining leaves. Do not be 
discouraged because of this, as these plants often 
develop into pretty specimens by the early autumn. 

Treatment of Myrtles (A/.).—By leaving the 
roots entire when repot tinplants will •ertainly 
make moat progress. At tie same Anne, if ftol iHnot 
wish to put the plants Art^^Tade, 


you may, with a sharp knife, pare off a portion of 
the outside of the ball of roots, and repot in the 
same sized pot. There is. however, no absolute need 
to shift root-bound Myrtles into large pots, as by 
watering freely with liquid-manure the health and 
vigour of the plants may be maintained for a long 
time. Soot and guano-water, given in a clear state 
and not too strong, are both excellent. Loam and a 
little leaf-mould and some rotten stable manure make 
an excellent compost, for Myrtles, and it should be 
rammed firmly around the roots when potting. 

Increasing Atibrietias (G. II. Coles).— There Is 
no difficulty whatever in raising Ihese from seed. 
Sow the seeds in a box, and stand in a cold-frame in 
the spring, and prick out into other boxes when fit, 
finally putting into their permanent quarters. You 
cannot, however, depend nn the seedlings coming 
true. You say you have obtained a few plants, in 
which case it is very easy to increase tin* stock from 
cuttings by inserting into pots filled with sandy soil 
short tops, standing them in a cold-frame and shad¬ 
ing for a time. Aubriet ias are also easily increased 
by division, which is best done when the flowering is 
over. 

Treatment of bulbs <0A. — Allow your bulbs in 
Grass, or where they are, to remain for some time to 
make all the leaf-growth they can. This is needful 
for a few weeks. The leaves then turn yellow and 
ripen, and they will soon die away. In the case of 
bulbs, unless those you wish to have removed before 
the leaves ripen, it is best to lift them carefully 
with roots uninjured and at once replant in furrows 
rather close together, under a north wall or fence, 
where they will thrive and perfect their leafage. The 
bulbs ean remain where thus laid in all the summer, 
if the ground be not wanted, and can be lifted and 
replanted in October. But we cannot say that the 
flowers they produce will be as good as new bulbs 
give. 

Azaleas dropping their leaves (.1 A.- There 
may be more than one cause for this. Either the 
roots may have perished through careless watering, 
or the soil may have come into, and remained, in too 
dry a state. The roots of the Azalea are hair-like 
fibres, and these quickly perish when the soil be¬ 
comes sour and surcharged with moisture, or is dust 
dry. All that can be done now is to cut the plants in 
somewhat aud water carefully. If not too much in¬ 
jured, they will break into fresh growth. By no 
means repot, but if the drainage is clogged, that 
should be put right, and if the soil has become very 
dry in the centre of the ball, the pots should be 
placed in a tub of water for a time, until every 
particle of soil in them is thoroughly moistened. 

Window Fern-case (IE.).—The floor of your Fern- 
ease should be a flat zinc trough, with a small out¬ 
let pipe to carry off surplus moisture. This may be 
partially filled with rubble, and on it be laid some 
pieces of tufa-stone or rock, making in this way small 
pockets to hold soil, and in these may be planted 
Ferns and Mosses. The best compost is that com¬ 
posed of turfy-loam, peat, leaf-soil, and sand, with 
which are mixed some small pieces of charcoal. Some 
small Ferns may be kept in pots, but those planted 
out will probably thrive best. After planting such 
varieties as Pteris erotica, Davallia hullata, As- 
plenium Trichomanes, Adiantum capillus- Veneris, 
and other Kerns, put among.-t them, to make a caipct, 
Selaginclla Kranssiana. Such plants as these will 
soon furnish your case and produce a very pretty 
effect. 

Layering Terns f t A. There are a few of w hat 
are called proliferous Ferns, producing tiny plantlets 
on the fronds, that can be increased in the way re¬ 
ferred to. But. if these tiny plantlets be cut off and 
planted thickly in sandy soil in pans or pots, and 
covered up for a time, they soon root and make nice 
young plants. As a rule. Ferns are raised by sowing 
the spores obtained from prolific fronds, cut when 
well filled with brown spore cases on the undersides, 
laid on newspaper to dry, then shaken out, gathered 
up, and sown thinly on sandy soil in pots or pans, 
gently moistened, and stood in a w arm greenhouse or 
frame, and shaded. Presently the surface of the 
soil becomes coated with a greenish growth, from 
out of which tiny Ferns fronds spring, and soon after 
these seedlings can be lifted out and be potted to 
grow larger. 

Treatment of Canna seedlings (C.).—The 
Carina seedlings should be potted in small pots in a 
compost of peat or leaf-mould, and loam, with which 
plenty of silver-sand has been incorporated, aud 
plunged in bottom-heat, an atmospheric temperature 
of 65 degs. being maintained. When the roots have 
reached the sides of the pots the seedlings should bo 
shifted on into larger sizes, ami a liberal allowance of 
well-decayed hot-bed or Mushroom-bed manure added 
to the compost. When making strong growth they 
should receive plentiful supplies of water. Ample 
drainage should be provided, or the large amount of 
water necessary during the summer will tend to 
render the soil clogged and sour, which will cause the 
plants to assume an unhealthy appearance. If it is 
wished to grow plants from February-sown seed to 
flowering size in the same year a temperature or 
65 degs. should be maintained about them during all 
periods of their growth. 

FRUIT. 

Fruit trees for north walls (Moira).— Morello 
Cherries do well in this position. Gooseberries and 
Currauts succeed admirably on a north wall. With us 
they not only grow freely, but fruit profusely, and 
very often when the bushes are thin of fruit in the 
most favourable positions, those on our north walls are 
carrying full crops, the reason doubtless being that 
favourably situated bushes bloom early and are often 
nipped by spring frosts; whereas those on a cool north 
aspect are late in blooming and escape. The suc¬ 
cession of fruit, secured from plants on a north wall 
is worthy of consideration; fruits do not begin to 
ripen until those in sunny quarters are matured, and 
they remain sound and good long after the latter 
are over. This is a great advantage and one which 
would be appreciated everywhere. Black Currants, 


Red and White Currants, and all varieties of Goose¬ 
berries succeed on north walls. In some places there 
may be borders of good soil along the bottom of the 
walls, and in such eases planting is easily done; 
even when places have to be entirely prepared for 
the bushes, little difficulty need be experienced, as 
a trench lias only to be taken out and good soil 
substituted before planting. A trench 3 feet or 
4 feet wide and 2 feet or so in depth will hold suffi¬ 
cient good soil to keep the plants going on well for 
many years. As to distance apart and style of train¬ 
ing, we prefer putting the plants in from 2 feet to 
3 feet apart, and taking from three to six branches 
up from each, training them at equal distances 
asunder, and restricting them to straight shoots 
clothed with closely-set spurs. 

VEGETABLES. 

Woodlice (C. II. Clark).— These are very difficult 
pests to destroy. They inhabit walls or woodwork, 
being found in all sorts of crevices. The best 
remedy, as a rule, is found in the liberal use of 
boiling water close to the walls where there are no 
roots to injure. They may also be trapped by lay¬ 
ing pieces of brick, tile, slate, or board near their 
haunts, which they will creep under. They may also 
be poisoned by laying pieces of Potato about, these 
having been previously boiled in water in which some 
arsenic has been dissolved. We may say, however, 
that the boiling-water remedy is by far the best. 

Tomato plants falling OF.).—It is unusual for 
small plants of Tomatoes from seed to fail, as yours 
have, from other causes than damping, through excess 
of watering, or because subjected to a very low 
temperature. In what temperature they have been 
kept, we do not know. The decay does not seem to 
have arisen from any insect attacks or from fungus. 
If you have ‘not done so. we should advise you to 
sow" seed again at once under glass, and for earlier 
fruiting purchase a few strong plants to go on with. 
We have recently had some very cold nights, and un¬ 
less you kept, up a nice warmth the low night tem¬ 
perature would do the tender young plants great 
harm. 


SHORT REPLIES. 


Newbold. — 1, Wc should not pinch Nicotian* 
affinis. You will mar the effect of the plants if you 
do so. 2, The Darwin Tulips (Breeders) flower in May, 
along with what are known as Cottage or May¬ 
flowering Tulips. You ought to see a collection of 

the above and make your own selection.- B. Paul.— 

See article re " Refuse from Acetylene Gas-making,” 

in our issue of December 23rd, 1905, p. 564.- 

Clydesdale. — See advertisements in our issue of 

April 13th, p. ix. - J. G.—lf the season is a very dry 

one, then you may leave the Grass-box off, as the 
mown Grass prevents the lawn drying up. You must, 
however, mow it every week. — K. A/. —Yes; un¬ 
fortunately, your Black Currant-bushes have been 
badly attacked by the mite, and we fear nothing 

short of burning them will clear out the pest.- 

II. Moore.— All depends on the soil. It is too late to 
apply any top dressing. This should have been done 
in the autumn or in the early spring, using a mix¬ 
ture of good loam, rotten manure, and wood ashes, 
and sowing in April on the bare patches some good 
Grass-seed. If the lawn is mown weekly, there is 

no necessity to roll it.- J. Francis. —Your Melons 

have been attacked by ■‘canker.” See the last para¬ 
graph in the article on ‘‘The Cultivation of Melons,” 

in our issue of May 4th, p. 129. - E. Balding.— The 

soot has, no doubt, been the cause of the trouble. 

and has quite burned up the stems and the leaves.- 

Jardmicr- See list of good Cactus Dahlias for the 
garden, in our issue of November 11th, 1905. p. 480. 
These were selected by the R.H.S. as being the best 
for the purpose. You will also find a selection of 
Pompons in the issue of April 1st, 1905, p. 58. A copy 
each of these can be bad of the publisher, post free, 
for 2-id. If you write to the Secretary, National 
Dahlia Society, “ Boyton,” Foots Cray, Kent, he will 
send you a list of the varieties which have been 

selected for the purpose you mention. - W. T.— 

Quite impossible to suggest any reasons, as you say 
nothing whatever as to how your plants arc grown. 

- Gosling.— Ask the advice of some gamekeeper in 

your district.- Amaryllis.—A handsome flower as 

far as colour goes, but wanting in the fine form the 
newer hybrids have. When your seedlings bloom you 
should submit some of the finest to the Floral Com¬ 
mittee of the Royal Horticultural Society. We do 
not know that the white form you speak of has yet 

been sent out.- Blaenavon.— You had better ask a 

horticultural builder to look at your boiler. 


NAMES OF PLANTS AND TRUITS. 


Names of plants. -Cecil M. Andry.- There are 
now so many Daffodils that it is quite impossible for 
us to name them. You ought to submit good speci¬ 
mens. not such as you send, to a specialist. The other 
specimen is the drooping Star of Bethlehem (Orni- 

thogalum nutans.)- E. B .-The Shad Bush (Amelan- 

chier canadensis).- A. II. M .—Rubus spectabilis.—- 

O S.— Triteleia uniflora lilacina.-— K. F. A.—Speci¬ 
mens insufficient.- E. C’.-The Jew's Mallow (Kerria 

japoniea fl. pl.).- D. G .-Cydonia japonic*.—- IF — 

Send better specimen.- F. J.—l, Probably a Sedge. 

Must have flowers. 2, Teucrium fruticans. 3, Aubrie- 

tia, poor variety.- M. B.—l, Sophoru (Edwurdsia) 

tetraptera. 2, Exochorda grandiflora.- E. V.—The 

Bird Cherry (Prunus Padus).- C. G. Curth.—Jev'a 

Mallow (Kerria japoniea fl.-pl.).- Mervyn.— Polygala 

serpvllacea.-A.-The name of your Ivy-leaved 

Pelargonium is L’Elegante, which has been in culti¬ 
vation many yoar*. j . 

Name of fruit -W E.—Apple looks like a poor 
specimen of Lndv Hennikcr R is hardly fair to sejifl 
1 11 

-I AI 




GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


No. 1,471— Vol. XXIX. 


Founded, by W. Robinson, Author of “ The Knulixh Floiocr Garden." 


MAY 18, 1907. 


INDEX 


Acacias.148 

A'loniH .146 

Alonsou inciaifolin 148 

Applu blossom woovil.. 151 
Apple-treea. grafting .. 154 
Apricot branches dying 154 
Aralia Sioboldi .. .. 152 

Azalea Deutsche Porle 146 

Azalea mollis .. 153 

Barberry (Berberis fas 
cicularis), the erect 
evergreen .. .. 151 

Beets .155 

Birds .157 

Black Currant gall-mite 
(ErinphyestPhytoptus) 
rihisl, the .. 150 

Bordeaux mixture .. 155 
Buckthorn (Rha mnua 
Alaternos Perrieri), 
Perrier's.152 


Oestrum Smith!.. .. 148 

Cobaia Bcandens as a 
balcony-climber .. 158 
Conservatory .. .. 156 

Crocus, autumn, trans¬ 
planting the .. .. 158 

Cucumbers, frame .. 155 
Cyclamens in rooms .. 154 
Dandelion as a vege¬ 
table, tho .. .. 155 

Figs in warm-houses .. 156 
Flower competition, 
children's .. 145 

Flowers, cut, for com¬ 
petition in May .. 153 

Fruit .154 

Fruit garden .. 156 

Fungoid growth on 

plants.159 

Fungus, name of .. 155 
Garden pests and friends 153 


Garden diary, extracts 

from a. 

Garden work 
Grape-Vine outdoors .. 
Grevillea robust,a failing 
Grubs on leaves .. 

Heaths in flower, 

hardy. 

Hippeostrum (Amaryl¬ 
lis) pardinum .. 

Indoor plants 
Lathyrus pubesccns .. 

Laurels. 

Lavender, growing 
Law and custom 
Lungworts (Pulmon- 
aria), the .. .. 147 

Magnolias, increasing.. 158 
Maples, Japanese, in 
the greenhouse .. 148 
Melons .156 


Narcissus Pyramus .. 147 
Outdoor garden .. .. 156 

Outdoor plants .. .. 145 

Peach and Nectarine 
bloom, thinning .. 154 
Peach-house, late .. 156 
Pear-leaf blister.. 150 

Pelargoniums, exhibit¬ 
ing show 148 

Pelargoniums, Ivy-leaf 148 
Persimmon (Diospyros 
Kaki), tho Japanese.. 158 
Plague of ants .. 158 

Plants and flowers .. 145 
Plants, failure of .. 152 
Poppy Anemones from 

Ireland.147 

Potato Early Rose .. 155 

Poultry.157 

PnmroBos, reversion in 145 
Pyrethrums .. .. 153 


Room and window .. 153 
Rose Devoniensis .. 140 
Rose Francois Crousse 140 
Roso Kouigiu Wilhulm- 
ina 140 

Rose Marcohal Niel on 
own roots .. .. 149 

Roso Niphotos planted 
out . 150 

Rose Polyantha Aennc- 
ken Muller .. .. 149 

Roso to name .. .. 158 

Rose Vicomtesse R. de 

Savigny.149 

Roses .140 

Roses, bush, distance to 

plant .158 

Roses, long - budded.. 140 
Roses, pot, that have 
flowered, planting 
out .153 


Royal Horticultural So¬ 
ciety Hyacinth Prizes, 

1908 155 

Shrubs, robber .. .. 152 

Stove and forcing-house 156 

Tomatoes.154 

Trees and shrubs .. 151 

Vegetable garden .. 156 

Vegetables 154 

Vino foliage in bad con¬ 
dition .158 

Violets, behaviour of .. 145 
Wallflower Miss Will- 

mott .147 

Wallflowers and frost .. 146 
Week's work, the coming 156 
Winter moth (Cheima- 
tobia brumata), the .. 150 
Wistaria flowers failing 158 
Woodland beauty in May 151 
Woodlico.150 


156 

156 

154 

158 

150 


143 

143 

158 

152 

146 

157 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

OUTDOOR PLANTS* 

REVERSION IN PRIMROSES. 

The case of reversion of the double lilac 
Primroses Mr. Crook refers to as having 
been seen at Hackwood, had its duplicate 
some thirty years ago in a market garden at 
Kelt ham, where I saw a big hatch ol a double 
revert to a single, and stock of it was put 
into commerce under the name of Lilacina. I 
saw duplicates of these singles in one of the 
groups of hardy spring flowers recently shown 
at a Royal Horticultural meeting. It is a 
matter for surprise to find these doubles thus 
reverting at Hackwood Park, because for 
many years there they did so ‘well and 
bloomed so finely. About 1870 I met with a 
very beautiful single crimson Primrose in a 
garden near Southampton. It was one of the 
most perfect ever seen. It was later put into 
commerce under the name of auriculrcfloia. 
Its origin was unknown, but I feel assured 
that, line the single lilac, it was a product 
of reversion from the old double crimson 
Primrose. I have also seen the single form 
of the double white. When such reversions 
occur the plants seem to be more free flower¬ 
ing, and they produce pollen and seed. In 
all eases of reversion it will be seen that the 
single flowers have thrum eyes—that is, have 
clusters of pollen cases well up in the throat 
or eye of each flower. It is only such that 
develop doublencss, as it is these anthers 
which change into petals, and in doing so de¬ 
stroy the organs of fertility. That singles 
are much more beautiful than doubles there 
can be no doubt, in addition to which by pro¬ 
ducing seed they can thus be propagated. 
Doubles can be increased only by division, 
and in hot, dry seasons arc most difficult to 
keep alive, except in districts near the sea 
or where there is considerable rainfall. Many 
years ago we had fully twelve distinct varie¬ 
ties of double Primroses, including white, 
mauve, lilac, rose. Scotch purple, deep 
purple, crimson, and several others of Dutch 
production. Years ago many very fine true' 
non fertile doubles of the Chinese Primula 
were raised. So far us the Chinese PrimroBe 
is concerned, no doubt we have in the doub¬ 
ling, compensation in a race of beautiful semi- 
doubles that do seed, though sparingly. We 
have no eucli race in hardy Primroses, and I 
do not think we want them. However, if in 
one direction, so far as hardy flowers are 
concerned, there is reversion, so also 

is there advance, for we have in the 
Polyanthus section wonderfully fine and 
beautiful things. Last spring I obtained 
from Mr. Crook, on behalf of our borough 
gardener, a packet of seed of these flowers. 
The resultant plants are now in bloom, 
and the town gardener is delighted with 
the beauty, size, and rich colouring lie 
finds in them. I saw amongst them the finest 
blue Polyanthus I have ever noticed, and 

Digitized by Google 


several others having blue shades, showing 
that the Wilson race of bine Primroses had 
influenced the seed-producing flowers. 

Kinrjxton-un Thames. A. D. 


CHILDREN’S FLOWER COMPETITIONS. 
It is pleasing to note tho growing popularity 
of flower competitions promoted amongst 
children. These flower competitions include 
plants raised from cuttings and from seed, 
and also cut flowers, especially those grown 
in gardens, or of the children’s own growth 
from cheap seeds supplied to them, whilst in 
some cases the aim of these competitions is to 
induce children to adhere more closely to 
their respective schools or bodies, having, 
perhaps, no higher aim. In other cases the 
desire is to induce children to learn some¬ 
thing of the cultivation of flowers, and also to 
become thus early cultivators, in the hope 
that in after years the lessons may bear fruit, 
and thus induce them to become in their re¬ 
spective spheres of life amateur or cottage 
gardeners. 

It has often been my lot to be invited to 
nssist in the promotion i f these competitions, 
and also to help make awards. In some cases 
cheap bulbs, such as bedding Hyacinths, 
Tulips, and Daffodils, are provided, the chil¬ 
dren having instructions how to pot and grow 
them, then at a stated time in the spring to 
bring them to their places of assembling to 
compete for small prizes. Sometimes the 
subjects are early-flowering Chrysanthemums, 
these being special favourites, because they 
make such excellent town plants. Classes 
for plants in pots and for bunches of cut 
flowers, constitute the October competitions, 
and very interesting they are. Annuals are 
much in request for school competitions. 
Half-an-ounce or so of seed of some dozen or 
so of good easily grown kinds is distributed in 
the ratio of two or four packets—very tiny 
ones—to each child. In one case there have 
been distributed eight seeds, each of two 
varieties, of Sweet Peas, with instructions to 
each of the little competitors how to prepare 
the soil, sow the seeds, protect the young 
plants from birds, support them with sticks, 
and general treatment. Tho actual competi¬ 
tion in this case will be the best bunches of 
one variety in one class, and of two varieties 
in the others. This is a competition that has 
taken strong hold of children, especially when 
shown brightly coloured illustrations of the 
beautiful Sweet Peas, now so plentiful and 
so cheap. 

Perhaps the most extensive competition, yet, 
on tlie whole, the best, because the exhibits 
have with proper treatment long lives, is one 
of small pot plants. Thpre are cases in which 
these where the competitions have been some 
years established that comprise some 1,000 
to 1,200 plants, all owned by the children, 
because purchased by them through the com¬ 
petition committee, and grown by them also. 
These consist largely of Pelargoniums, Pe¬ 
tunias, Fuchsias, Calceolarias, Lobelias, and 


I others, nil easy to grow. Every plant when 
issued has a small piece of tape, with a seal 
attached, placed loosely round the stem, and 
no plant is allowed to compete that has not 
such a mark attached. Tho plants when dis¬ 
tributed to the children in May are then well- 
rooted in 60-sized pots. For eaeh one a penny 
is paid. As the competition is held usually 
towards the end of July, the plants have to 
be shifted at once into 5-inch pots, and grown 
on, and it is here where the children’s skill is 
tested, as much depends on the way the re¬ 
potting is done, the quality of the soil used, 
the cleanness as well as size of pot, and the 
way the plant is later tended. Competitions 
with wild flowers are, of course, common at 
most rural flower shows, and very often chil¬ 
dren set up several scores of bunches. These 
competitions do no real good except so far 
that they may test the taste or artistic tem¬ 
perament children may display in making 
bouquets that arc worthy of the name. Un¬ 
fortunately, these efforts seldom show anything 
pleasing, as so often the exhibits are mere 
clumsy hunches, devoid of taste or beauty. 
A special weak feature of the competitions is 
that they encourage children to raid hedge¬ 
rows, meadows, and woods, and collect wild 
flowers somewhat ruthlessly, thus robbing 
nature of much of her charm and beauty. 
Still further, the wastefulness shown in con¬ 
nection with these wild flower competitions in¬ 
dicates that children do not learn to value or 
to love flowers. But when they grow them in 
gardens or pots it is different, and they 
learn then to love and fully appreciate such 
flowers. R. R. K. 


BEHAVIOUR OF VIOLETS. 

Soil and situation appear to influence these 
considerably. This especially applies to the 
long-stennned single kinds. During the past 
two years I have been trying many kinds, 
with varied results. Situated as I am, in a 
low position, most of the long-stemmed single 
kinds are not satisfactory. Prinoess of 
Wales and California run to leaf, and can¬ 
not bear the damp in the early autumn. Two 
years ago I grew both of these l>eside Victoria 
Regia and Czar in an open position, giving 
them liberal culture in summer; when 
autumn came I put lights over them. This 
was of no avail, as by the spring they had 
rotted back to the main crown, California 
dying quite out. In April of 1906 I filled a 
long border in a favourable spot not far from 
a high wall facing west with Princess of 
Wales, Czar, and Victoria Regia, giving them 
plenty of room. Princess of Wales bloomed 
far more freely than the others up to Jnnu- 
ary, giving flue blooms, but with severe cold 
they are now (end of March) almost dead. 
This spring I saw Princess of Wales doing 
well at Frimley Park, Surrey, and at Hack- 
wood, where the soil and air are drier. In 
both of the above-named gardens I was told 
Comte de Brazza was a failure. This, with 
me, is quite a success. 

My best single blue kind this vear is La 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 
























146 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


May 18. 1907 


France. Although it did not bloom so freely 
as Princess of Wales in autumn, it compen¬ 
sated for this later on. With me the leafage 
is smaller and the foot-stalks shorter, thus 
allowing more air amongst the foliage. Last 
summer I grew part of the stock of both 
double and single kinds near glass-houses 
facing south, placing lights over them in 
severe cold, but allowing abundance of air. 
These did not suffer from frost in the least, 
while another batch of plants lifted from the 
open ground early in October and put on a 
spent hot-bed in frames suffered badly. I 
lately saw a fine batch of the long-stemmed 
single kinds, growing in 12-inch pots ; these 
were growing in a slightly heated pit. 

Forcle Abbey. J. C. 


ADONIS. 

Among the earlier spring flowers none are 
more welcome than the one or two members 
of the genus Adonis. Small as a genus, the 
number of species which are familiar to 
growers of hardy plants is yet smaller, while 
those best known may not exceed three in 
number, and of these two only—the Vernal 
Adonis (A. vernalis) and the Mandsehurian 
Adonis (A. amurensis)—have attained to any 
degree of popularity. The third species re¬ 
ferred to above is the Pyrenean Adonis (A. 


good decorative subject withal. The double- 
flowered form, like the type, is of elegant 
habit of growth, early flowering, and attains 
about 1 foot high. 

A. vernalis (the Vernal Adonis) is well- 
known. the glistening yellow blossoms in full 
sun often measuring 3 inches to 4 inches 
across. In the light soil of the Thames Val¬ 
ley, with good treatment, I have grown this 
plant nearly 2 feet high, and, seen with many 
of the glistening yellow' blossoms, it is a fine 
plant indeed. There is said to be a white- 
flowered form of this, but I do not remember 
to have seen it. 

A. pyrenaica is also a worthy subject, 
if well grown, aud by some it is regarded as 
superior to A. vernalis. I canrtot say this is ; 
my experience. 

These, then, are the more worthy members 
of this group of early spring flowers, and, 
save for A. amurensis, which commences to 
bloom in February, the others named bios- j 
som in late March and during April. 

Culture.- All the Adonises prefer a deep 
and light well-drained soil. I am assured I 
that the rooting character of these plants is J 
not well understood, yet, like the Christmas 
Rose, the roots of the Adonis will penetrate 
I to 2 feet in depth in suitable Soil. It is worthy 
of note that the Vernal and Pyrenean 
Adonises are imported largely each year, the 


bed of very light and sandy soil should be 
given the plants, and soil 2 feet deep will 
grow them well. 

E. H. Jenkins. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Growing Lavender -Being desirous of planting 
some large nods of Sweet Lavender, l will be glad for 
any information on the subject—as to planting, culti¬ 
vation, and general treatment, the best time for 
planting, also where I could procure plants in quan¬ 
tity?— B.\i.giki,anp. 

[In growing Lavender, an elevated position, 
with a southern and western exposure, is the 
best. Shelter from the north is also im¬ 
portant. The subsoil must be dry during the 
winter, and the surface soil of a calcareous 
nature. Where a loamy soil overlies chalk, 
though this be at a distance of 2 feet from 
the surface, the necessary conditions to suc¬ 
cess are present. A fairly luxuriant growth 
gives the best crop of spikes, and from such 
a better yield of oil is obtained than from 
small, puny flowers, the result of poor, half- 
starved land. If the soil is too rich, then a 
too luxuriant growth, which will not stand 
frost, is set up. When it is desired to in¬ 
crease the stock, pieces with three or four 
growths attached are the best. These, if 
slipped off the plants by a sharp downward 
tug, contain a small portion of old wood 
attached to the base, commonly called a heel. 



Adonis vernalis. Prom a photograph by Mr. Jas. E. Tyler, Halstead, Essex. 


pyrenaica), which is less frequently met with 
than formerly. Within the past two decades 
A. amurensis was introduced to British 
gardens, and attracted a deal of attention, 
as much by its early flowering as by the fact 
that it was a useful garden plant. I well re¬ 
member first seeing tlie Mandsehurian Adonis 
endeavouring to flower in the rock garden at 
Kcvv some few years ago about the middle of 
February, and the good opinion I then formed 
of it is but enhanced by fuller experience. 
Here, in company with the Crocus and Snow¬ 
drop, and even much earlier than many of the 
earliest bulbous Irises, was one of the best 
additions to early hardy flowers for many 
a year, and those who prize the earliest 
flowering plants W'ill do well to bear this one 
in mind, and plant it freely. The plant is 
more easily obtained to-day, and, being per- 
fectly hardy, not merely at the root, but proof 
against the cold of February, when the young 
growths and flower-buds appear, the plant is 
invaluable. Of the Mandsehurian Adorns 
there is a double-flowered variety, the blos¬ 
soms each about the size of a crown piece, 
the petals a combination of green and gold— 
that is to say, the centre of the blossoms are 
filled by dark green petals, the lower petals 
being a’rich yellow colour. This double form 
secured an award of merit from the Royal 
Horticultural Society in 1906, when it was 
shown in capital condition. It is not only an 
interesting plant ;/Tvs highly desirable and 


ilant ; >He highly desirable 

Co gle 


plants having been collected in their native 
haunts. In collecting these plants it not in¬ 
frequently happens that the roots are cut 
away to within about 2 inches of the root- 
stock, and the plants thus treated invariably 
die when planted in the open garden. Many 
years ago, however, I discovered that by 
planting these collected subjects in boxes 
filled with coal-ashes, or this and Cocoa-nut- 
fibre mixed, even the smallest scraps would 
survive, and, indeed, in this way I have grown 
many of the plants to a large size. I advise 
readers to lav their plants of Adonis,^ 
Anemone Pulsatilla, etc., which arrive shorn 
of two-thirds of their roots, in boxes filled 
with coal-ashes for the winter, and giving 
no protection, and but little water, plant 
them out in March or April ensuing. It was 
many years ago, after I had experimented m 
the above manner with a batch of unsaleable 
scraps, that the late Robert Parker compli¬ 
mented me upon the excellence of a bed of 
Adonis flow'ering at 2 feet high. Mr. Parker 
remarked that he had never seen anything 
approaching it in all his experience, and the 
roots were just as deep in the soil as the tops 
were high in the air. In planting in light 
soils these virtuallv discarded bits I used cow- 
manure freely. Where established plants 
are found, the species produce seeds freely. 
In clav soils, and those generally of a water¬ 
holding nature, the Adonis will not grow so 
well as in a deep light warm soil. A deep 


From this part roots soon spring. If the 
ground is at all poor, a dressing of farmyard 
manure should lx* dug in previous to plant¬ 
ing, which can be done in the spring or 
autumn. You had better wait until the 
autumn now, planting ns early as you can, so 
as to get the plants established before the 
winter. Any nurserypian can supply you with 
plants.] 

Frost and Wallflowers.— “Dorset ” practi¬ 
cally admits that in dibbling his seedling 
Wallflowers out into rich deep soil they be¬ 
came too gross to enable them to withstand 
severe frosts. When living amidst the market 
gardens of Middlesex, where Wallflowers are 
planted in vast quantities, I have not failed 
to notice what destruction was wrought by 
bare frosts amongst breadths put out on to 
well-manured soil and grown into large plants 
early to induce them to carry winter bloom 
for cutting. But where hardy plant-growers 
who served hawkers or others needing plants 
to bed out in the winter, dibbled out Wall¬ 
flowers for such purpose, not only did they 
use the smaller plants from the March sow¬ 
ing, but these were dibbled out into rather 
poor ground and made firm by much tread¬ 
ing. These plants would remain uninjured 
and be bushy and well rooted. We must re¬ 
member that the Wallflower’s native habitat 
is on old walls, where there is practically no 
soil, and that its alpine nature compels ample 
exposure to all weathers.—D. 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAI6N 







Mat 18, 1907 


GARDENING ILL USTRA TED. 


147 




Anemones grown here. —Major Blacker, 
Carrickblacker , Portadovm, Ireland. 

-I am sending a box of blooms of “St. 

Brigid” Anemones, and would be much 
obliged if you would give your opinion of 
them. These blooms were cut from plants 
grown from seed sown last. May, the seedlings 
being planted on a piece of ground which was 
very deeply dug and manured pretty freely 
with very well-rotted manure. — James 
Magee, Portadoivn, Ireland. 

[Very interesting and welL grown flowers, 
the colours rich and varied in both cases. We 
think it is much better to stick to the old 
name, Poppy Anemone, the name St. Brigid 
only causing confusion. The name used as a 
heading to this note is that of the old writers, 
and, we think, far better in every way.—E d.] 

Wallflower Miss Willmofct.— A derided acqui¬ 
sition to the dwarf, compart, hardy race of annual 
Wallflowers, of which Faerie Queen, Eastern Queen, 
and Purple Queen are well-known varieties, is the 
new variety named above. The colour of the flower 
is quite a new departure anions Wailflowers, it 
being nenrer to that peculiar shade known as crushed 
Strawberry, and when grown in long lines or in a 
mass i3 very striking. The habit of the plants is so 
good, and they arc so free-flowering, that when more 
generally known it will, without doubt, be largely 
grown.—A. W. 


NARCISSUS PYRAMUS. 


Piilinonaria saecharata. From a photograph 1»3' Mr. Chas. Jones, Eourne, Lincoln, 


in almost anything, save poor sandy soils or 
the stiffest and most obdurate of clays. They 
are easily increased by means of division, or 


more frequently in gardens than at one time, j 
arc the Lungworts, or Pulmonnrias, some of , 
which must have had a place in British gar- I 
dens for ages, seeing that the common one. j 
P. officinalis, has been recognised as a native I 
plant. Although not showy plants' as a , 
whole, they have a quiet beauty, and the 
early flowering period of some gives an addi- I 
tional value bevoqd their intrinsic beauty, j 
To have plants of their character in bloom ! 
in March and onwards is a gain, and we can- | 
not well afford to be without them even if 
only as a change from the many bulbous ! 
plants in flower in March and April. It is i 
to be feared that the nomenclature is rather 
obscure, and I recollect the late Rev. C. j 
Wolley-Dod writing me some years ago to the 
effect that he could distinguish but little be 1 
tween the various Pulmonarias, such as P. 
saecharata and officinalis. Yet these present I 
differences quite apparent to those who grow , 
them. 

P. haccharata is a handsomer plant than 
P. officinalis, the leaves, spotted with white, 
being larger and longer than those of P. 
officinalis, which are smaller and more 
rounded, and almost uniformly coloured. 1 
The flowers of P. saecharata are on taller 
stems, and produce a better effect than those 
of the others. I have seen it look very well I 
indeed on bold roekwork, with its hand- | 
somely spotted leaves and its flowers, which 
arc of a good purple-blue. 

P. officinalis, though not so showy, is 
more varied in colour, and there are white 
varieties, others with red or pink flowers, 
and others with blue and purple or different j 
hues. The white and red varieties are very , 
pleasing, and the red ones give a welcome I 
little touch of colour in their season. The | 
dwarf 

P. arvernensis, which has blue flowers, 
and neat, roughish, spotted leaves, is a good 
plant, but the white variety, P. arvernensis | 
alba, is more attractive still, and ought to he 1 
procured by those who have a liking for the I 
Lungworts. 

There are a few other species in cultiva- 1 
tion, hut these are hardly procurable from 
the trade, so that reference to them is un¬ 
necessary. A great recommendation pos¬ 
sessed by the Lungworts is the fact that they i can be raised from seeds, when these are 
are of remarkably easy culture, that they can 1 procurable. S. A. 

be cultivated in the shade as well as in the - 


This beautiful Ajax Daffodil belongs to the 
bicolor section, and is a novelty whose merits 
received recognition in April, 1904. It will 
be seen from the illustration that in all its 
parts the flower is of large size, and, indeed, 
as seen growing, it is one of the finest. A 
conspicuous feature of the flower is the well- 
rolled back rim of the trumpet, and this ex¬ 
panding well at the mouth, renders the variety 
attractive, even among a large number. 
Judged by the standard of merit us employed 
by the Messrs. Barr, this variety receives 
four marks, which is one mark less than is 
given to the very finest sorts. In colour the 
segments of the perianth are of a creamy 


Narcissus Pyramus. [From a photograph by Mr. Jas. E. Tyler," Halstead, Essex. 


sun, and that they will do under deciduous 
trees. Their requirement^ in the way^jf soil 


Digit iz 


nejit^ in the way jDf so 

Gck g[e 


Poppy Anemones from Ireland.— I send 
some fine specimens of “St. Brigid” 


hue, the trumpet being of the palest canary 
tone, which whitens as the flower ages. The 
plant attains to 12 inches or 14 inches high. 
It is a rather expensive sort. 

UNIVERSITY OF iftjftotffff' 
URBANA-CHAMPAI6N 


THE LUNGWORTS (PULMONARIA). 

Among the “old-fashioned” plants whose 
day seemed over, but which one observes 


are also not difficult to supply, as they will 
grow in almost any soil to he found in an 
ordinary garden. Like most plants, they 
appreciate a good loam, but they will thrive 












148 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


May 18, 1907 


INDOOR PLANTS* 

IVY-LEAVED PELARGONIUMS. 

This section of Pelargoniums has made great 
strides within the last few years, and the 
different varieties are now employed as 
climbers, as trailers for draping balconies, 
window-boxes, etc., in the flower garden, and 
also for the greenhouse in pots. It is those 
with double or semi-double flowers to which 
these remarks apply, for the single flowered 
kinds are now rarely met with, though they 
arc so exceedingly graceful and pretty that 
their present neglect must be looked upon as 
a decided lose. One drawback is that, as a 
rule, the flowers are very flimsy and quickly 
drop, whereas the double kinds stand well. 

It is now about thirty-three years since the 
first double-flowered Ivy-leaved Pelargonium 
was sent out. This was Koenig Albert, a 
purplish lilac-coloured flower, whose German 
origin was shown by its name. Soon after 
other kinds were raised, and twenty-five 
years ago, or thereabouts, we began to get 
the wide range in colour which we find in the 
varieties of to-day. From that time to the 
present a vast number of varieties has been 
put into commerce, but some of the older 
kinds still remain favourites; indeed, I am 
told by one of the large growers for Covent 
Garden Market that by far the most popular 
kinds are still Mme. Crouase, Galilee, and 
Souvenir de Charles Turner. From time to 
time I have flowered most of the new varie¬ 
ties, and have discarded many. The follow¬ 
ing arc all good, and they constitute a distinct 
selection:-—Corden’s Glory, scarlet; Cut 
Bloom, blush ; Galilee, soft rose pink, very 
bushy habit; Kiroflee, violet-purple; Hector 
Giacomelli, semi-double pink, feathered in 
upper petals with crimson ; Leopard, lilac 
pink, with large crimson blotch, very dis¬ 
tinct; Lamartine, orange - sc arlet; Mme. 
Croussc, silvery - pink ; Princess Victoria, 
pinkish-mauve ; Resplendent, scarlet-crim¬ 
son, very large flower, one of the best for 
pillars; Ryecroft Surprise, salmon pink; 
Souvenir de Charles Turner, reddish-pink, 
feathered maroon ; The Queen, salmon-red ; 
and The King, cerise. 

Beside these there are two very pretty 
forms obtained by the inter-crossing of a 
Zonal and an Ivy-leaved variety—viz., 
Achievement—whose double blossoms are of 
a pleasing shade of soft salmon pink ; and 
Alliance, sent out two or three years ago by 
M. Lemoine, of Nancy. The flowers of this 
arc of a pretty blush tint, the upper petals 
being feathered with purple. These two are 
in foliage and growth about midway lietween 
the Ivy-leaved and Zonal kinds, and are well 
suited for growing into specimens. 

Concerning the single-flowered Ivy leaved 
forms, a word may well be spared for one of 
the original species—viz.. Pelargonium 
scutatum, which is a little gem, though I have 
not met with it anywhere than at Kew. It 
is there used in the flower garden for vases 
and for hanging baskets, in each case with 
satisfactory results. Of neat, compact 
growth, P. scutatum also flowers in great pro¬ 
fusion. The flowers arc white, slightly 
feathery, with maroon on the upper petals, 
while they are rounder in outline than most 
of the single-flowered Ivy-leaved kinds. 

Of variegated leaved varieties by far the 
best is L’Elegante, a very old kind, which 
was given a first-class certificate by the 
Royal Horticultural Society over forty years 
ago. Its bright green leaves are heavily 
margined with white, which, when exposed to 
the sun, become deeply suffused with bright 
rose. It is soon to great advantage when 
draping a window-box or in a similar position. 


NOTES AND IMPLIES. 

Exhibiting show Pelargoniums I shall ho 
obliged if you can tell rne how long one ought to 
allow for show Pelargoniums to push up their blooms, 
fso as to have them ready tor a certain date after 
keeping them pinched in?—H. G., jY. Devon. 

[The time needed will, to a certain extent, 
depend upon the varieties and the condition 
they are in, as well as other matters ; but. 
generally speaking, from six weeks to two 
months should be allowed.] 

Japanese Maples In the greenhouse.— Of 
hardy shrubs that aj^irought on under glass 

Digitized by GOOglC 


for the beauty of their blossoms, we have a 
large and varied assortment; but of those 
in which foliage is the only claim to recog¬ 
nition, the various Japanese Maples stand 
forth almost alone, and very beautiful many 
of them are just as the foliage is first ex¬ 
panded. The cut-leaved forms are especially 
suitable for such a purpose, forming, us they 
do, such light and elegant masses of grace¬ 
fully divided foliage, that arc admirably 
adapted for association with flowering plants. 

If the leaves of these Maples are allowed to 
develop in the temperature of a cool green¬ 
house, they will expand much earlier than 
those of outdoor plants, and the delicate 
tinted forms are in this way less liable to 
injury than where exposed to all kinds of 
weather. These Maples are altogether more 
satisfactory when little more than simple 
protection is given them, as, if brought on 
in a temperaturo as high as sonio flowering 
shrubs are subjected to in order to develop 
their blossoms, the leaves lose a good deal of 
their freshness quite early in the year; while 
just protected under glass, they will remain 
fresh throughout the season, and in many 
cases die off brightly tinted. From the 
above it must not be assumed that indoor 
culture is necessary for these Maples, as 
they are hardy enough, and a group of 
selected varieties forms a highly ornamental 
feature where favourably situated. 

Alonsoa inclsifolia. —An easily-grown 
plant of a half shrubby character, which is 
particularly valuable for greenhouse deco¬ 
ration, from the fact that it will continue to 
bloom for months together. Just now it is 
one of the most notable plants in the green¬ 
house, as the flowers, which are very freely 
borne, are of a bright scarlet colour. This 
Alonsoa forms a bushy plant, whose slender 
branches arc clothed with narrow leaves, 
about an inch long, and deeply cut, hence the 
specific name of incisifolia. The flowers, 
borne in farily long terminal racemes, are 
only about one-third of an inch in diameter, 
but from their number and brightness of 
colouring they form a very conspicuous fea¬ 
ture. A native of Chili and Peru, from 
whence it was introduced over a century ago, 
this Alonsoa can be readily struck from cut¬ 
tings, put in at any time during the spring 
months. They should be given much the 
same treatment as cuttings of a Fuchsia. If 
struck now and potted on when required, 
these will be in the autumn well established 
plants in pots 5 inches to 6 inches in dia¬ 
meter, and, in a good light position in the 
greenhouse, will commence to flower early in 
the spring, and if occasionally assisted with 
a little liquid-manure, will continue through¬ 
out the summer. At this last-named season ! 
the blossoms may not be ho much appreciated, 
as the annual kinds, with flowers a good deal 
in the same way, may be had out-of-doors.— 
T. 

Acacias.- Among spring fl< wering plants 
for cold houses the Acacias hold a foremost 
place. In years gone bv these were seen far 
more often than now. Few things are more 
ornamental than well-grown Acacias. I was 
reminded of this at the close of March, when 
looking over the gardens at Frimlev Park, 
Surrey. Many kinds in full bloom, both large 
and small plants, were arranged amongst 
Arum Lilies, Cinerarias, Salvias, Cyclamens, 
Freesias, and many spring-flowering, hard- 
wooded plants. It is a long time since I have 
seen a conservatory so gay. Among the kinds 
I noticed were forummondi, armata, pul- 
chella, dealbata, verticillata, pubescens, and 
others. The strong-growing kinds thrive best 
in a good sandy loam. When the pots are 
full of roots a weak stimulant may be given. 
The plants may be kept to any size, seeing 
they bear close pruning. Some of those above 
noted had been cut back close every year for 
many years, but nothing could have been 
more healthy. Some of the Acacias, such as 
Riceana, dealbata. and others, make fine 
pillar or roof climbers for cool houses.—C. 

Oestrum Smithi.— Of the different Cos 
trums, better known in gardens by the generic 
name of Unbrothamnus, three—viz., elegans, 
fasciculatum, and Newelli—have flowers of 
some shade of red, while in aurantiacum they 
are of a pleavsing orange tint. From these 
above named the comparatively new C. Smithi 
furnishes a decided break away, the blossoms 


of this being deep pink. It is also less vigor¬ 
ous in growth than C. elegans, from which it 
is said to be a seedling, os neat bushy plants 
that have been pinched two or three time® 
will, in fl inch pots, flower profusely. Though 
it will flower when small, this Centrum, like 
the others, may bo treated as a pillar plant, 
for which purpose they are all well adapted. 
When allowed space for their development 
the red-flowered kinds will bloom more or lees 
nearly throughout the year, while when at it« 
best C. aurantiacum is simply a mass of 
orange-yellow. The usual flowering period 
of this last is in the autumn, though blossoms 
are produced at other seasons, but scarcely 
to the same extent then as in the other kinds. 
All the Cestrums strike root from cuttings in 
the spring as readily as a Fuchsia, and the 
young plants grow freely afterwards. Planted 
out in a prepared bed in the greenhouse, they 
will soon furnish a pillar to a height of a 
dozen feet or more. The individual flowers 
are tubular in shape.—T. C. 

Azalea Deutsche Perle.— Forty years ago 
this Azalea would have helped to tide over 
many a difficulty, for in those days it was the 
aim of most gardeners to have some Indian 
Azaleas in flower by Christmas, a feat not so 
easy of accomplishment then as it is now. In 
order to obtain early blooms of all the varie¬ 
ties the least trouble is given by Deutsche 
Perle, a semi-double flower of a pure white 
when fully expanded, but when partially 
opened tinged with green at the base of the 
petnls. Of this variety I obtained some im¬ 
ported plants in the beginning of October, 
and by the second week in December some of 
them were in full flower. They were kept in 
an ordinary greenhouse, used for Pelargo¬ 
niums and similar subject/?, and of late tho 
temperaturo there has ranged generally from 
45 degs. to 50 degs. It will thus be seen that 
they were in no way forced to have them in 
flower thus early. The treatment that the 
plants receive when growing has, however, a 
good deal to do with their season of blooming, 
in proof of which I may mention that I re¬ 
ceived the variety from two different firms on 
the continent, and whereas those supplied by 
one firm commenced to flower as aforesaid, the 
very earliest of the others did not bloom be¬ 
fore January was well advanced, and even 
then heat had to be used. The variety 
Deutsche Perle is of a rather loose habit of 
growth, a feature which stands it in good 
stead for cutting, as effective sprays can be 
taken without injuring the plant.—X. 

Hippeastrum (Amaryllis) pardinum.— 
The garden varieties of Hippeastrum 
(Amaryllis) have now been grown for so many 
years that the original species are almost 
lost sight of. This is in some instances a de¬ 
cided loss, particularly so, I think, in tho 
ease of this species, for the flowers of this are 
not only very beautiful, but quite distinct 
from those of the garden forms. They are 
usually borne two or three together, on a 
scape about 18 inches high. In shape they 
are shallower than those of mo6t of those now 
grown. Their colour is usually a bright 
cream, with just a suspicion of green, and 
they are in the interior heavily dotted with 
crimson. There is, however, a certain amount 
of individual variation, some having larger and 
rounder flowers than others, while the spot¬ 
ting is also equally variable. I have met 
with a particularly fine form under the name 
of H. pardinum superbum. This species has 
not been very much employed by the hybri¬ 
dist, though traces of its influence may be 
occasionally seen among the garden varieties. 
Hippeastrum pardinum first flowered in 
Messrs. Veitch’s nursery at Chelsea forty 
years ago, it having been introduced by the 
late Richard Pearce, who was mainly instru¬ 
mental in sending home the various species 
of tul>crous-rooted Begonias, from whence 
the present, day race has been evolved. When 
first distributed the price of Hipjx?a6triim 
pardinum was two and three guineas a bulb. 
—G. S. C. _ 

Index to Volume XXVIII.— The binding covers 
(price Is. 6d. each, post free, Is. Dd.) and Index (3d., 
po3t free, 3Jd.) for Volume XXVIII. are now ready, 
and may be had of all newsagents, or of the Pub¬ 
lisher, post free. 2s. for the two. 

E IN A,T 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


May 18, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


149 


ROSES. 


ROSE DEVONIENSIS. 



ROSE MARECHAL NIEL ON OWN 
ROOTS. 

Knowing, as a constant reader of Garden¬ 
ing, that you are always interested in the 
efforts of amateurs, I send you a photo I 
hare taken of a Rose Marech&l Kiel, which I 
struck from a cutting under glass in the 
autumn of 1904. It bloomed first in the 
spring of 1906, and had twenty good blooms 
on it. It ia in a 10-inch pot, and was top- 
dressed in the autumn with old stable- 
manure, and when the buds began to show in 
February it had an occasional weak dose of 
Clay's fertiliser. It has been grown in a 
greenhouse during the winter, with just suf¬ 
ficient heat to keep out frost. 

A. Stanbury Phillipb. 

The Cedars, St. CuthberCs , Bedford. 


LONG-BUDDED ROSES. 

One is often asked to supply Roses with long 
buds when executing orders for plants. It is 
not difficult to understand 
such a request, for who is 
there who does not admire a 
deep budded Rose such as 
Gustave Regis ? This variety 
is worth growing in quantity 
to provide us with these deep 
buds. Naturally, we shall 
require Roses of other 
coiours, and in making our 
selection we must not omit 
that delightful sort Phari- 
saer, which was so beauti¬ 
fully illustrated in these 
columns a short time ago. 

Then there is the old and 
well-tried Ni photos, which 
yields such quantities of 
snow' - white blossoms. 

Whether it be the old variety 
or the climbing form, this 
Rose is always valuable for 
cutting, and, probably, it is 
grown as extensively as any 
sort for this purpose. Of a 
somewhat different type, but 
still a white, is Frau Karl 
Druschki. Its buds are often 
flushed with streaks of red 
that detracts from its useful¬ 
ness, although with many 
this would be an additional 
charm. Iu Liberty, Rich¬ 
mond, and Lady Battersea 
we have three grand sorts 
of varying shades of red, 
each one deserving extensive 
culture where long budded 
Roses find a demand. Kil- 
larney, Madame Abel Chate- 
nay, and Mrs. W. J. Grant 
are varying shades of pink. 

I cannot too highly recom¬ 
mend the climbing form of 
the last-named. It is a grand acquisition, 
and should be largely planted. From the 
early days of June, and again in autumn, it 
yields a perfect wealth of the delightful buds 
hi Mine. Ravary, Mme. Hector Leuilliot, 
Mme. Charles Mounier, Anna Ollivier, Lady 
Roberts, and Mine. Pierre Coehet are yellow 
and buff shades, each one producing a de¬ 
lightful bud so well adapted for a coat flower. 
Clara Watson and Souvenir du President 
Carnot are among the flesh-pink sorts—per¬ 
haps the best as long-budded varieties. In 
addition to above, I can recommend George 
Laing Paul, Lady Wenlock, Warrior, Gloire 
Lvonnaise, and Gloire de Margottin. It may 
safely be said that if this selection does not 
embrace all the long-budded Roses, it does 
at least provide us with some of the best. It 
may be asked how should they be grown to 
give best results? I would suggest that, if 
practicable, a wall be planted with many of the 
sorts named. Should this not be possible, 
then endeavour to have tall plants, if neces¬ 
sary, supported by stakes. Such plants 
would need but moderate pruning, and, if 
relieved of their oldest growths, they would 
yield quantities of useful buds. 

Rosa. 


Are the new Roses crowding out these old 
favourites? Surely no Rose of recent years 
can surpass in fragrance and beauty this 
lovely old friend, which just now is yielding 
; its dainty blossoms in such rich profusion 
J upon an old plant under glass. Perhaps it 
may be it is too tender in some districts, or 
in others the climbing form grows too luxuri¬ 
antly, and will not bloom. I fancy there is a 
remedy for this. If found too tender, give 
the Rose a west or south wall, for it pays 
well in such a position. If too shy flowering, 
try the spreading out plan, and instead of 
I cutting away a lot of wood encourage laterals, 

I and laterals again from these, and then there 
will be a good crop of bloom. I found this 
old Rose in a sheltered garden last summer 
| not thirty miles from London. It was grow- 
i ing over an arch that spanned the path. It 
I is true there was a good evergreen Rose—I 
I think Jersey Beauty—growing with it, but 
I one could see the blossoms of Devoniensis 
' peering out all over the arch. If I had to 
plant this Rose under glass I should employ 


Rose Miirtfehal 
by Mr. A. 


Digit i; 


Google 


Niel on own roots in pot. From a photograph sent 
S. Phillips, The Cedars, St. Outhbert’s, Bedford. 


the old form of dwarf growth, unless there 
was abundance of space. The dwarf variety 
will soon cover a space of 6 feet to 7 feet, 
and will blossom profusely, and one may al¬ 
ways reckon on a lovely button-hole from 
such a plant. 

Another charming old Rose is Souvenir 
d’un Ami. Who can help admiring its beauti¬ 
ful blossoms? What lusty growth we have 
in this Rose, almost approaching that of a 
climbing form. Can anyone remember when 
this Rose first appeared? I have heard there 
used to be a much deeper pink shown years 
ago, named Reine Victoria. To this day one 
may find very pale blossoms on some plants of 
this Rose, and I have been told that the two 
Roses were thought to be too much alike, 
and, consequently, they were mixed together. 
Perhaps there has been a pale sport and no 
one has noticed it. We know Souvenir d’un 
Ami is very sportive, because have we not 
Souvenir de S. A. Prince and The Queen, 
both identical and pure white? They are 
fragrant as their parent. 

I welcome new Roses when they are really 
of merit, but I cherish the old favourites, and 
trust the day is far distant when they will be 
discarded. X. 


ROSA POLYANTHA AENNCKEN 
MULLER. 

Much progress has been made in these 
charming little Roses since the first one ap¬ 
peared. This, I believe, was Paquerette, 
sent out as far back asil895 by M. Guillot, 
and now we have some* fifty or sixty varie¬ 
ties catalogued by some firms. One of the 
latest varieties is Acnncken Muller. As seen 
when recently exhibited before the Royal 
Horticultural Society by Messrs. Wm. Paul 
and Son, the flowers have a peculiarly-twisted 
formation, something like a Cactus Dahlia, 
only much smaller, although for a Polyantha 
the blossoms are really large. There are two 
rows of petals, with two or three loose and 
small petals around the stamens. The colour 
is a particularly rich rose-pink, as brilliant 
as in Mrs. W. J. Grant, the centre of the 
blossoms being a clear white. It is a very 
free and continuous-blooming sort, the 
flowers produced in fine clusters upon rather 
strong growths. It must be a splendid sort 
for massing, and the profusion of blossom 
really rivals that of some of the monthly 
Roses. Aenncken Muller was introduced by 
Schmidt, of Erfurt, in 1906, and was the re¬ 
sult of a cross between Crimson Rambler 
and Georges Pernet. It is very strange how 
some of the seedlings from the climbing forms 
of Rosa Wichuraiana hybrids are quite dwarf 
in growth and much resembling the dwarf 
Polyantha Roses, whereas crosses made be¬ 
tween the dwarf Polvanthas and Rambler 
Roses frequently come of climbing habit. A 
very charming dwarf-growing Polyantha is 
Mrs. W. H. Cutbush. It is a pale blush-pink 
sport of Mme. N. Levavasvseur, and possesses 
all the splendid attributes of that popular sort, 
save colour. The fine conical trusses, so 
freely produced, will make this a highly de¬ 
corative plant, either grown in pots or plan¬ 
ted out. The variety Mme. N. Levavasseur 
seems inclined to sportiveness, so that we may 
yet obtain other shades of colour from this 
delightful Rose, which the Americans have 
christened "Baby Rambler.” 

Rosa. 


ROSE KONIGIN WILHELMINA. 
This is a lovely new Hybrid Tea that bids 
fair to become a favourite. It first appeared 
in the season of 1905-06. I do not know' how 
it will turn out in the open air, but, under 
glass, the blossoms are very beautiful, quite 
full, inclined to globular in the centre, the 
outer petals reflexing at the edge. Its centre 
is well developed, so it should make a fine 
exhibition Rose. The colour is a lovely shade 
of salmon-pink, coining midway between Mrs. 
Edward Mawley, Dean Hole, and Earl of 
Warwick. I should say that, when well 
grown, this Rose will bs a formidable show 
flower. I see some growers announce this 
variety as a Tea Rose, but I think that it 
belongs to the Hybrid Teas, and I can never 
see why Mrs. E. Mawley is not as much an 
Hybrid Tea as Dean Hole. It does not mat¬ 
ter much, excepting to exhibitors, wliat class 
we put them into. We seem to want a pro¬ 
nouncement from some competent society as 
to what should constitute a Tea Rose, Hybrid 
Tea, and Hybrid Perpetual. 

E. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Rose Vicomtesse R. de Savlgny.— This is a 
beautiful Tea Rose that seems to have somewhat 
escaped notice. It was sent out by Mons. Guillot in 
1900. The blossoms are full and flat, in colour soft 
blush-pink in outer petals and of a rich dark China 
Rose shade in centre. There is also a yellowish shad¬ 
ing at base of petals. The buds nre long and hand¬ 
some, and borne in fine clusters on erect stems, the 
whole plant making a charming growth that fits it 
admirably for garden decoration.—W. X. 

Rose Franpois Crousse. ’Those who have 
not yet added this Rose to their collection 
should do so. It is, without doubt, the best 
large-flowered crimson climbing Rose we 
possess. With good culture its blossoms may 
be had of exhibition standard, and not merely 
one or two blooms per plant, but a quantity 
from base to summit. In this free-blossom¬ 
ing habit it excels many others of equal 
vigour, so that one may use it for a variety 
of purposes. It is one of the best hedge 
Roses that could be planted, and as a free 
bush or standard it is splendid. 1 admired 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 









150 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Mat 18, 1007 


the Rose when M. Guillot sent it out in 1900. 
and since then it has proved a very valuable 
sort. Even for pots this Rose, in pillar form, 
would rival many of the old sorts, possessing 
ns it. does the free-flowering character already 
mentioned. Rosa. 

Rose Niphetos planted out. -The value of 
this Rose, either grown in a pot or planted 
out under glass, is so well known that it is 
unnecessary to say much on this point. Earl^- 
in April, when visiting Parroek’s Lodge, near 
Chard, I found this Rose planted in a novel 
way. Some years ago a plant was set out in 
a bed in a lean-to structure close to the sec¬ 
tion which formed a division from another 
house. This grew away rapidly, and some 
panes of glass were removed and several 
shoots taken through into the next house. 
Now a large part of the roof is covered in 
both houses. The object was to bring one 
portion into bloom some weeks before the 
other. At the time of my visit (early in 
April) that part in the warmest portion had 
given its first crop of bloom ; while that in 
the cold-liouse was in full beauty.—J. C. 


GARDEN PESTS AND FRIENDS. 

THE BLACK CURRANT GALL MITE 
(ERIOPHYES (PHYTOPTUS) RIBIS). 
The so-called big-bud disease of the Black 
Currant due to this mite has been known in 
this country for at least 60 years, but latterly 
the disease has spread all over the country, 
and the damage done has been so great that 
in some districts Black Currant growing has 
ceased, the Black Currant being replaced by 
some other crop. All cultivated varieties of 
the Black Currant fall victims to the disease, 
which is caused by the presence in the buds 
of mites of the species Eriophyes ribis. As a 
result of the irritation caused by the pre¬ 
sence of the mites and the pricking of the deli¬ 
cate young leaves by the mandibles of, the 
mites in their feeding, the buds swell greatly 
and become somewhat rounded in shape. If 
the buds are badly infested, then neither 
leaves nor flowers develop, the buds remain 
unopened, and after retaining their green 
colour for a time they ultimately dry up and 
become brown. Buds containing a smaller 
number of mites may burst at the proper 
season, but the shoots and leaves are dwarfed. 
The mite is whitish or pale green in colour, 
and lias a glassy semi-transparent appearance. 
The eggs, large for the size of the mite, are 
greenish in colour, and have a horny covering. 

Life-history.— The mites feed and shelter 
in the buds over winter. Buds that have 
been only partially infested may open out in 
March, and the mites thus exposed and de¬ 
prived of shelter may leave their hiding place. 
It is believed that most of the mites from this 
chance migration perish. The real migration 
of the year takes place from badly infested 
and destroyed buds, which do not expand, 
and from partially infested buds that have 
opened late. This migration takes place from 
about the middle of April onward—there are 
variations according to the season—increasing 
in intensity during May and spending itself 
somewhat by the middle of June. It should 
be noted that this migratory period is the vul¬ 
nerable period in the life of the mite—the 
time when treatment, to be successful, should 
be applied. During this time mites may be 
found in numbers on the shoots, at the bases 
of the leafstalks, on the flower-stalks, on the 
flowers, and in collections round the young 
buds which are to provide the new homes for 
the migrants. Migration may take place by 
crawling or by the mites attaching them¬ 
selves to passing insects and other animals. 
In waiting for such attachment, the mites are 
found occasionally to assume an upright posi¬ 
tion fastened by the sucker at their tail end. 
"Where lodgment is not obtained on a passing 
animal the mite 6ceins to launch itself into 
space, with the possibility of landing on or 
near a bud ; most that full to the ground in 
this Way probably fail to get back to the 
bushes. These migratory mites are adults, 
and, having entered the new buds and made 
their way inwards, the females—many of 
them already full of eggs—proceed to lay. 
The eggs hatch in due course, and buds 

Digitized by Google 


crowded with the new generation show at the 
end of August and in September the character¬ 
istic swollen appearance. Eggs have been 
found in the buds in all the months of the 
year, but in the winter months the number is 
comparatively small. 

Preventive and remedial measures.— 
(1) The grower should cultivate from clean 
stock only, rejecting bushes that show swollen 
buds. Cuttings from infested plants should 
not be used. (2) Where the disease is limited 
to a few bushes these should he uprooted and 
burned. (3) Handpicking tho swollen buds 
may, in an isolated area, keep the pest in 
check. (4) Hard pruning followed by the re¬ 
moval by hand of suspiciously large buds has 
been tried often, sometimes with fair results, 
sometimes without manifest improvement. 
(5) Fumigation with hydrocyanic acid gas has 
been experimented with, but the results are 
not such as to justify a recommendation of 
this treatment, especially in view of the diffi¬ 
culties attending fumigation over a wide area 
in the open. (6) Dusting or spraying with a 
mixture of lime and sulphur. Very encour¬ 
aging results—amounting in some cases to a 
cure—have attended the experiments of Mr. 
W. E. Collinge with the lime and sulphur 
treatment. The spray fluid used consisted of 
a mixture of 1 lb. of lime, 1 lb. of sulphur, 
and 20 gallons of water. This treatment to 
he successful must be thorough and repeated. 
More successful even than this was the dust¬ 
ing with lime and sulphur. One part of un¬ 
slaked lime and two parts of flowers of sul¬ 
phur are mixed together and dusted three 
times on the bushes when they arc wet, at the 
end of March or the beginning of April, again 
in the middle of April, and again in the first 
week of May. To some extent the Black Cur¬ 
rant mite is kept down by natural enemies, 
such as the common ladybird (Coccinella 6ep- 
tempunctata), the lacewing flv (Chrysopa sp.), 
and a species of hover fly (Syrphus sp.).— 
Bcvised Leaflet of Board of Agriculture and 
Fisheries. 


NOTES AND BELLIES. 

Pear-leaf blister.— The leaves of some of my 
Pear-trees have curled in and turned red, as those 
enclosed. Can you say what this is, or how caused; 
also, can you suggest any cure?—T avistock. 

[The leaves of your Pear-trees are infested 
with the Pear-leaf blister mite (Phvtoptus 
pyri), and the best thing you can do if but few 
leaves have been attacked is to pick them off 
and burn them. On the other hand, if they 
are too numerous to do this, you had better 
spray them with a suitable insecticide so soon 
».s the fruit is set. An excellent insecticide 
for this purpose is soluble paraffin, which 
procure and mix according to directions, and 
apply in the form of a spray, being careful to 
thoroughly wet the under as well as the upper 
surface of the leaves with it. Repeat the 
application three or four times, allowing an 
interval of four or five days to elapse between 
each spraying, and in the winter months well 
spray the trees—say, in November and again 
at the end of January with the caustic 
alkali wash so often mentioned and recom¬ 
mended in the pages of this journal.] 

Pungoid growth on plants - I herewith send 
for your inspection some fungoid growth that has 
this winter got on to my greenhouse Roses, Fuchsias, 
Heliotrope, Pelargoniums, etc. Would you kindly tell 
me the best way of getting rid of it? I have tried 
sponging, but that is tedious and difficult. Would 
syringing with petroleum and soft-soap do any per¬ 
manent good?—J. V. Crass wick. 

[The plants in your greenhouse, from the 
specimens you sent, appear to be covered by 
one of the alga) (Pleurococous vulgaris). Try 
spraying the plants with \ oz. of sulphide of 
potassium dissolved in one gallon of water, 
and if this does not prove efficacious, use 
weak Bordeaux mixture. Probably the house 
has not been properly ventilated, or has been 
kept too damp. I do not think petroleum 
emulsion would lie of much use.—G. 8. S.] 

Tlie winter moth (Cheimatobia brumala). — 1 
would he glad if you would let me know through the 
columns of your valuable paper the name and life 
history of the caterpillars which you will find in the 
enclosed Apple-buds? The caterpillar seemingly, alter 
hatching out, commences to eat the young leaves and 
buds, develops to about \ inch in length, of a pale- 
green colour, then curls up the leaves by forming a 
wch.-J. J. II. 

[The caterpillars attacking your Apple- 
buds are those of the winter moth (Cheima¬ 
tobia brumata), a very common and most 


destructive pest. You cannot do better at 
the present time than spray the trees with 
ail arsenate of lead wash, which should be 
made as follows:—Dissolve 2$ oz. of acetate 
of lead and 1 oz. of arsenate of soda in 
10 gallons of water, mix them well, and add 
1 lb. of common treacle or If lb. of soft-soap, 
to make the mixture adhere better to the 
leaves. This should not be used when the 
trees are in blossom, for fear of poisoning the 
bees, which will be sure to visit the flowers. 
When the caterpillars are full grown, they 
let themselves down to the ground by silken 
threads, and become chrysalides in the soil, 
remaining in that condition until early in 
October, when the moths emerge. The 
female moths are practically wingless, so are 
only able to reach the buds by crawling up 
the stems of the trees. This may be pre¬ 
vented by tying sticky bands round the stems 
of the trees. It will not do to smear the 
bark writh the sticky compound, as it is likely 
to injure the tree. Many different substances 
have been tried, but the following plan 
seems to be generally considered the best: 
Take a strip of waterproof paper, such as is 
commonly used by grocers and others, 
7 inches or 8 inches wide, and long enough to 
overlap after being tied round the stem of 
the tree ; then take a strip of calico of the 
same length, but slightly narrower, and tie 
them both one over the other, the paper 
being next the tree with two strings—one at 
the upper edge of the band and the other at 
the lower, so as to prevent the moths from 
crawling underneath. Then smear the calico 
thoroughly with cart-grease. The female 

moths, on trying to cross this barrier, will 
become entangled in the grease, and he un¬ 
able to pass the hand. The number of moths 
which are sometimes taken on these bands is 
surprising. The bands should he examined 
from time to time, to see that they are in 
working order, and have not got dry or so 
covered with the moths as to be useless. The 
bauds should be put into position during the 
first week in October, and be kept in order 
until the end of the year. If the ground 
under the trees be kept broken up and pool 
try can be allowed access to it, they will 
pick out many of the chrysalides.—G. 8. S.] 

Woocllice. I enclose two specimens concerning 
which I would be clad of information? The first is 
an insect, the name of which I am anxious to learn, 
and whether it- does any harm in the garden? The 
second is a portion of the flower-stalk of a DalTodil, 
the stem of which was cut straight across, then the 
severed portion attacked in the manner shown in 
the specimen. I would he glad to know l»v ,what 
animal or insect such damage is caused?—T urfitk. 

[The creature you sent was a specimen of 
one of the woodlice, the pill woodlouse 
(Armadillium vulgare). The woodlice are 
not insects, hut belong to the same order as 
the crabs, lobsters, and shrimps (the Crus¬ 
tacea)). They are most destructive in gar¬ 
dens, as they gnaw the collars of a great 
variety of plants ; they imny easily be trapped 
by laying slates, tiles, bricks, or pieces of 
board on the ground, as they are fond of 
hiding under such things. They are also 
fond of congregating at the foot of walls be¬ 
tween the earth and the wall. There they 
may be killed by pouring boiling water over 
them. The Daffodil-stem was, probably, 
eaten through by some insect, but I cannot 
say by what kind.—G. S. S.] 

Grubs on leaves —I shall fed much obliged if 
you will tell me the name of the larvte enclosed, and 
if there is any way of getting rid of them except 
pinching the leaves or cutting them off? — East 
ANGLIAN. 

[The larva) attacking the leaves you for¬ 
warded are those of a small moth belonging 
to the family Tortricidoe. The larvae of this 
family are very difficult, to name, as those of 
many species are so much alike that it is im¬ 
possible to distinguish them apart, so I can¬ 
not say to what species your specimens be¬ 
long. If they are in curled up or folded 
leaves, so that they are well sheltered by 
them, spraying with "an insecticide is of little 
use, as the chances of reaching the pests arc 
very slight, and unless you can shake them 
out of their retreats the only way is to cut off 
and burn the leaves, or pinch them so as to 
kill the larvae. Spraying the leaves with an 
arsenical wash would render them poisonous 
to the larva*, but any portions of the leaves 
which the spray could not reach would still 
be liable to attack. -G. S. S.] 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



Mat 18, 1907 


GARDENING illustrated . 


151 



TREES AND SHRUBS. 

WOODLAND BEAUTY IN MAY. 
May— the month when Naturo puts forth her 
first promise of the glory that shall follow in 
the leafy days of summer—comes, I fear, to 
the pent-up multitudes in great cities only 
with its lengthened days and warm blinks of 
sunshine. How little do the vast majority of 
townspeople know or see of the beauty of our 
English woodlands, lanes, and parks at this 
season? Nevertheless, there is in the heart 
of most townsmen a deeply ingrained love of 
rural scenery. Although our public parks 
and gardens may be wanting in some of the 
bright features and surroundings of the fine 


green. The perfect symmetry of outline of 
the Plane, too, makes it one of the most 
striking objects in our landscapes. The Gean 
and double-blossomed Cherry are likewise 
lovely objects, perfect in outline, and being 
covered, as it were, with a sheet of purest 
snow, contrast strikingly with their green 
surroundings. It is a matter for regret that 
the Birch does not occupy a more prominent 
place than it does in our parks. All who 
have seen it in its natural habitat, on moun¬ 
tain passes and wild gorges, will, I feel sure, 
like Sir Walter Scott, term it “the lady of 
the woods.” Even in winter wc have no 
native trees to equal it in gracefulness, and, 
when clothed with young leaves, the perfume 
which they exhale when refreshed by evening 


Group of Berberis Aquifolium fascicular is. 


English parks far away in the country, yet 
they arc, to the artisan and toil-worn multi¬ 
tudes that frequent them, a very paradise ; 
and not alone to them, but to the children 
what the lanes and woodland meadows are to 
our country children—a place of healthful re¬ 
sort, where they become acquainted with 
Nature in all her various and wonderful pro¬ 
ductions. 

The Pine copse, on which, during the short 
and stormy days of winter, the eye delighted 
to rest, becomes comparatively dark and 
sombre when the Larch puts forth its ex¬ 
quisite green and lovely rose-coloured cat¬ 
kins. Than the Plane, too, no tree in our 
English woodlands or park is. at this season, 
more ornamental, its varied tints being most 
remarkable ; some trees look as if clothed in 
dark bronze, others in the deepest olive- 


dew or a passing shower is most delightful. 
Of the tree “with boughs that quake at every 
breath, wo can hardly have too many,” says 
Sir Walter Scott; and he planted about 
100,000 Birches round Abbotsford. The Haw¬ 
thorn is so indispensable that few parks or 
woodlands are without it; next to the Yew 
and the Oak, it is the most durable and long- 
lived of our native trees, and, perhaps, more 
historical and poetical associations cluster 
around it than surround all our other trees 
put. together. About the durability of our 
native Hawthorn there can be no doubt. 

In early spring, as well as in the months of 
autumn, colours blend most harmoniously; 
yet each tree may be known in the distant 
landscape by its outline. Distinctness of 
form as well as of colour is, therefore, a point 
worth the attention of planters. T. 


THE ERECT EVERGREEN BARBERRY 
(BERBERIS FASCICULARIS). 

This is a very precious and hardy plant, 
flowering frequently at a time when good 
shrubs are few. It is classed as a variety of the 
common Barberry, but, from the garden 
point of view, is a distinct plant, and in 
groups like that shown in the illustration is 
very handsome and very fragrant. It is of 
easy culture, and in some cool soils seems to 
thrive better than the common spreading 
evergreen Barberry, which loves a peaty or 
free soil best. 

HARDY HEATHS IN FLOWER. 
Although we are now at the end of April, 
the charming little alpine Forest 
Heath (Erica carnea or herbacea), 
which has been in flower since the 
early part of the present year, is 
still bright, though the increased 
heat of the sun will now 60 on 
cause the blossoms to lose their 
richness of colouring. Apart from 
its great merit of brightening up 
our gardens during the winter, it 
is an extremely accommodating 
subject, for it will grow' in almost 
any soil in which lime docs not 
form too large a proportion. 
Where there are some established 
specimens, and it is desired to in¬ 
crease the stock, the old plants 
may be pulled to pieces after the 
manner of a herbaceous subject, 
and if carefully done each piece 
may be separated with its atten¬ 
dant. roots. In the typical kind 
the flowers arc a kind of rosy-red 
colour, but in this respect there 
are individual differencOvS, some 
being superior in tint to others. 
Again, this colouring is, to a cer¬ 
tain extent, influenced by position, 
as in a spot fully exposed to the 
sun, yet where the roots do not 
suffer from drought, the little 
bells are a good deal brighter than 
where wholly or partially shaded. 
There is a recognised variety— 
alba—blit the blossoms are not of 
the purest white, and from the 
lowly stature of this Heath they 
arc liable to get a good deal 
splashed during wet weather. A 
hybrid between Erica carnea and 
the Mediterranean Heath (Erica 
mediterranca) lias made great 
strides in popular favour within 
the last few years. In some sea¬ 
sons this will commence to bloom 
before Christmas, and continue 
quite as long as Erica carnea. It 
bears a closer resemblance to E. 
carnea than to E. mediterranca, 
but for all this it is quite distinct. 
This hybrid is quite as accommo¬ 
dating in its nature as E. carnea, 
and can be increased just as 
readily by division. 

The typical Erica mediterranca 
and its several varieties are just 
now in fine condition. They are 
all of robust constitution, and so 
free - flowering that the entire 
specimens are simply masses of 
charming blossoms. In the typi¬ 
cal kind the flowers are a kind 
of rosy - red, tinged with purple, while 
the best marked varieties are alba, whitish ; 
nana, a dw’arf form; and glauca, which 
forms a dense mass of pretty glaucous 
foliage. Another April-blooming Heath is 
Erica australis, a native of Spain and Por¬ 
tugal. It belongs to what is usually termed 
Tree-Heaths—that is to say, those of an up¬ 
right habit, often attaining several feet in 
height. The urn-shaped flowers arc of a very 
bright rosy-red hue. From E. mediterranea. 
with which it is sometimes confounded, this 
species differs in being taller and more spare 
in habit, while the flowers are borne in little 
terminal clusters, and not in the leaf axils 
after the manner of the Mediterranean 
Heath. Other Tree-Heaths in bloom are 
Erica arborea, the nearly allied E. lusitanica 
or codonodes, as it is frequently called, and 


Google 





152 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


May 18, 1907 


the hybrid between the two, known as Erica 
Veitchi. Though in eome cases past their 
best, in others they are still very beautiful, 
the long shoots being covered with myriads of 
tiny white or pinkish white blossoms. 

As a succession to the various Heaths 
above enumerated we have Erica cinerea 
(Grey Heath), with its innumerable varieties, 
which begin to expand early in June, while 
even sooner than that the comparatively 
large bells of the St. Dabeoc’s Heath (Daboe- 
cia polifolia) make their appearance, and 
under favourable conditions a succession will 
be kept up till the autumn. In the latter part 
of the summer numerous other species and 
varieties of hardy Heaths are at their best. 

X. 


LAURELS. 

To the Editor of Gardening Illustrated. 

Sir, —What “Oxford” and Mr. Burrell 
say about Laurels interests me, because I 
had to destroy large masses of them about 
five years ago, when I came to this garden, 
and am still clearing them off by degrees 
from about an acre they still occupy. The 
soil here is very strongly impregnated with 
lime, and it is absolutely impossible to grow 
Rhododendrons, while even Azalea mollis is 
joisoned after the first two seasons, the 
eaves gradually yellowing and failing. But 
I find that where I have grubbed Laurels 
I can get some iime-haters to grow— 
Heaths, for example—and I think that these 
Laurels, which have stood for about sixty 
years, at least, so far as the originals go— 
of course, they have layered themselves con¬ 
tinuously—have, as it were, sucked the lime 
out of the soil. It has not been difficult here 
to get the other things planted to do well 
after them : though it is evident that the 
staple is rather poor, it appears quite whole¬ 
some. I should think that, perhaps, in Mr. 
Burrell’s case, his soil is naturally a good 
Rhododendron soil, and, therefore, somewhat 
close and peaty, and that it would get very 
sour under the dense shade of the Laurels. 
Our limy soil does not seem to do that. With 
what “Oxford” says about the lime filtering 
in. no matter how much peat you use, I quite 
agree. I planted the alpine Rhododendrons 
in a deep bed of peat, but they never did any 
good whatever, owing, probably, to their 
being on the side of a slope, from whence 
lime was washed down. 

What I should like explained is the curious 
fact that even rain-water, used for the green¬ 
house, leaves a white deposit on the surface 
of the soil in seed pans. The water does not 
wash the lime off the roofs from which it is 
collected, because it is the same when we use 
water from the tail-end of heavy rains. And 
the soil in the pans may be only peat and 
sand and leaf-mould, so that the lime is not 
already there. M. S. Williams. 

Swanswick Cottage, Bath. 


ARALIA SIEBOLDI. 

The above name is that by which this ever¬ 
green shrub is generally known, but it also 
bears the names of Aralia japonica and Fatsia 
japonica. According to the Kew Hand List, 
this last-mentioned name is the correct one. 
This Aralia, from its handsome leafage, is 
largely grown in pots for decoration, for 
which Teason it is generally looked upon as 
needing glass protection in winter; but this 
is by no means the case, as, given a mode¬ 
rately sheltered position, it can be regarded 
as quite hardy in the neighbourhood of Lon¬ 
don. A well-grown specimen out-of-doors has 
an exceedingly handsome and noble effect, 
the sturdy stem, or stems, being furnished 
with large-lobed leaves of a dark green colour 
and stout, leathery texture. The flowers, too, 
borne in a branched panicle, made up of 
rounded heads like those of the Ivy, but 
larger, and white in colour, form quite an 
additional feature. Apart from its other 
qualities, this Aralia will do moderately well 
in towns, and in spots where it gets very little 
direct sunshine. 

Even where this plant is not known by 
name, there are, doubtless, many readers of 
Gardening Illustrated who have made its 
acquaintance on the costermongers’ barrows 
under the name of the Castor-oil plant, to 

Digitized by (jCL glC 


which it is, really, in no way related, the 
only feature in common being that both have 
Iobed leaves. Despite its fallacy, however, 
the name of Castor-oil plant is generally ap¬ 
plied to it by the itinerant dealer. 

As in a young state it forms an admirable 
room plant, there are, doubtless, many 
readers whose plants have grown too large 
that will be pleased to learn they may be 
planted outside without fear of their perish¬ 
ing with the first frost. The present is a 
good time to plant them out, as they will be¬ 
come established before winter comes round. 

X. 


PERRIER’S BUCKTHORN (RIIAMNUS 
ALATERNUS PERRIERI). 

The genus Rhamnus includes a certain num¬ 
ber of shrubs, or bushes, of use in various in¬ 
dustries, medicine, and gardening, one of 
the most interesting being that known in 
gardens as Alaternus, or Rhamnus Alaternus. 
The name Alaternus is thought by some to be 
derived from alternus, because the leaves are 
alternate, and in that respect are distinct 
from those of the Phillyrea, the leaves of 
which are opposite. In any case, it is a 
charming evergreen shrub, and includes some 
very interesting varieties, among which the 
best known in gardens arc the round and 
broad-leaved (Alaternus latifolia), the oval¬ 
leaved (A. hispaniea), the narrow-leaved (A. 
angostifolia), and three other varieties with 
leaves streaked with yellow and white. They 
are all well known in nurseries. 

Rhamnus Alaternus Perrieri is remarkable 
for its small size, pyramidal form, and wide- 
spreading base. The branches being numer¬ 
ous and closely set, its habit is shrubby. It 
is well adapted for alpine gardens of 'small 
extent. As to its origin, whether it was ob¬ 
tained from seed by the late Paul Perrier, of 
Bourg-Argental, or is a dwarf specimen of 
some wild form found by M. Perrier in his 
travels, is not clearly known. The small size 
of the leaves and dwarf, bushy habit give it 
a singular resemblance to Rhamnus Picenen- 
sis, Duval-Jouve, which ap|>ears to be the 
same kind as R. Alaternus var. Clueii, men¬ 
tioned by Loret and Barret in their “Flore 
de Montpellier.” In any case, it is worth 
cultivating as a handsome shrub. 

The garden varieties of Alaternus are in¬ 
creased by cuttings, layering, and grafting. 
Cuttings are made in July and August, and 
placed under hand-glasses. Layering can lx? 
done by earthing up the shoots that spring 
from the base, bending and partly cutting 
the young, flexible twigs.—Vi viand Morel, 
in Lyon 11 orticole. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Robber shrubs. —Mr. Burrell well sums up 
the defects of the Laurel when he affirms that 
no other trees or shrubs will do well after it. 
Many trees and shrubs do by their leaf drop¬ 
ping. if allowed to remain and decompose, 
fertilise the soil beneath them. Laurel 
leaves seem never to do 60 . Then, without 
doubt, large-leaved evergreen shrubs do more 
fully exhaust soil, because they arc perpetu¬ 
ally in leaf, whereas deciduous trees or shrubs, 
which shed all their leaves in the autumn, 
have for several months little root action. 
Laurel leaves arc shed much more sparingly 
and unevenly, and even in decay seem to be 
poisonous to soil rather than useful food. 
No doubt the common practice in shrubberies 
of cleaning out all fallen leaves annually is 
very harmful. Far better have the leaves 
just forked into the soil in November, to pre¬ 
vent their being blown away, for the cleaning 
practice, if tidy, certainly does rob the soil of 
what should be its natural manure. What is 
said about the aftermath of planting Laurels 
should make anyone pause ere he plants 
things w'hich, whilst free in growth, and 
evergreen, all the same, do greatly exhaust 
the 6oil.—A. D. 


"The English Flower Garden and Home 
Grounds ."—New Edition, 10th, revised, irith descrip¬ 
tion* of all the best plants, trees, and shrubs, their 
culture and arrangement, illustrated on wood. Cloth, 
medium, Svo., 15s. ; post free, 15s. 6d. 

"The English Flower Garden” may also be 
had finely bound in S vole., half morocco, tUs. nett. Of 
all booksellers. 


FAILURE OF PLANTS. 

Your short reply to “Courtown.” in your 
issue of May 4th, with reference to the “Value 
of decayed leaves,” gives a possible clue to 
the unsatisfactory behaviour of many plants 
in my garden. My soil is light, sandy, and 
of no depth, the Bagshot sand underlying it 
at a depth of 2 feet, and often less, and it is 
subject to the usual exhaustion by Laurels, 
Lime-trees, etc., of the average suburban gar¬ 
den. It has a great deficiency of sun in win¬ 
ter, which not only keeps it very damp, in 
spite of the sandy nature of the Boil, but 
makes spring plants a week or a fortnight 
later than in many neighbouring gardens. I 
endeavour to rectify the barrenness of the 
soil by annual dressings in autumn of 8 lb. 
basic slag and 2 lb. kainit per square rod, 
and in spring of 5 lb. superphosphate and 
3 lb. sulphate of ammonia. Certain plants 
also receive a top-dressing of well-decayed 
stable manure, and I spread everywhere leaf- 
mould and decayed rubbish heaps. In spite 
of this treatment, I lose annually a certain 
number of plants by disease or incurable 
weakness, and often they appear to make no 
roots at all. Liliums, such as eroceuin, 
tigrinum, colohicum, speciosum, Browni, 
eandidum, and testaceum, have no chance; 
they all die of Lily disease. German Irises 
lose all their leaves in autumn from their 
special fungus. Primroses and Polyanthuses 
make no roots, Christmas Roses get diseased 
—in fact, it is only 6uch strong growers as 
Michaelmas Daisies, Heleniums (even these 
often fail), Sunflowers, Oriental Pop¬ 
pies, etc., that succeed. 1 have seen damage 
obviously due to injudicious use of sulphate 
of ammonia, but I have for some time past 
been disposed to attribute most of the disease 
and all the failures to make roots to the use 
of old rubbish heap material, because it has 
appeared to me that the more freely I use it 
the worse the result. 

I keep my leaf-mould separate from the 
rubbish, and have a third heap for sticks, 
wiry roots, and non-decomposable material, 
which is burnt and the ashes spread. All 
cut-down herbaceous plants and the general 
products of gardening operations go into the 
rubbish heap, which is put annually through 
a riddle and then spread broadcast on the 
beds. This material is full of semi-decayed 
stems of tall herbaceous plants, which might 
almost be called woody, and I believe herein 
lies the mischief, on account of the fungoid 
growth such material causes. It is impos¬ 
sible to riddle or pick it out, and I must 
either burn all my rubbish periodically, and 
forego the valuable acquisition of humus, of 
which my soil is so lamentably deficient, or 
treat it in some way as to render the woody 
fragments innocuous. 

When dividing plants I usually put a hand¬ 
ful or more of the old rubbish heap before 
replanting, according to my idea of the needs 
of the plant. For example, Primroses re¬ 
ceive a considerable quantity, consequently 
(if, as I suppose, it is iu consequence of that 
treatment), my Primroses and Polyanthuses 
never make any roots. On the contrary, if 
I leave a few plants in undressed soil, where 
they had been laid in after flowering, they do 
as well as I could wish, convincing me there 
is something wrong in the decayed rubbish. 

1 should be sorry to forego the annual addi¬ 
tion of humus to my soil to the depth of about 
I- inch, which, theoretically, can hardly lie 
anything but beneficial; but if I am right iu 
supposing it does more harm than good, the 
sooner I stop it the better. 

I have written at some length, in order that 
some reader may have a better chance of giv¬ 
ing me some satisfactory reply, and not sug¬ 
gest something that I already do. I may add 
that whenever I divide I dig down two spades 
deep, and either remove the barren sand from 
below altogether, or mix it with better soil. 
It. is quite impossible for me to consider the 
digging out of the whole garden, or even of a 
whole bed and removing the soil, nor in her¬ 
baceous beds is it easy to dig a single hole— 
say, 18 inches across —to a greater depth than 

2 feet. A. H. W. D. 

Wal ton-on-Thames. 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


May 18, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


163 



ROOM AND WINDOW. 

PYRETHRUMS. 

Few hardy border flowers to-day are more 
popular than the Pyrethrums, a group of 
plants which had its origin in the still little- 
known Pyrethrum rose uni, if we. must use a 
name now discarded by the botanist, or, at 
least, referred to some other head. We ad¬ 
here to the generic name Pyrethrum, how¬ 
ever, by reason of its prevalence in catalogues 
and to avoid the confusion which must arise 
did we refer to the groups as Chrysanthe¬ 
mums, under which they are now placed by the 
botanist. Of its freedom of flowering, its 
decorative character in the border, and its 
adaptability to a large variety of soils and 


seasons iri the year when these Pyrethrums 
may be taken in hand—viz., the early spring 
(usually in April), when the young leaves are 
a few inches long, and again about mid- 
August, when, with the summer-flowering 
over, fresh growth appears again from the 
crown of the plant. At either or both of 
these seasons the plants may be divided, 
with every hope of success. To achieve the 
best results, tlie plants require to 1m; reduced 
to almost a single crown or growth, potted, 
and placed in a cold-frame for a month or 
more to recover. Where large quantities are 
grown for sale, this mode of increase be¬ 
comes a necessity, and it frequently happens 
that in private gardens, the necessity being 
non-existent, a rougher method that brings 
its own reward is adopted. Far better, even 


Artificial heat is bad, and the plants should 
never be subjected to it. The late summer 
propagation in no sense differs from that of 
spring, and, if done in August, the young 
plants will be ready for planting out again 
in September. Where a new or choice variety 
exists, not only is it important to know that 
these plants increase freely if divided and 
potted as suggested above, it is equally im¬ 
portant to luiow that cuttings—preferably 
those of spring growth—root quite freely 
also. The only type of “cutting,” so called, 
of any value is that single crown shoot or 
growth, and which must be torn from the 
root-stock in a downward direction. All 
those shoots having a good heel attached will 
form roots; the rest will almost invariably 
perish. A cold handlight with a bed of sand 
is the best place for these cuttings. 

General cultivation. — The Pyre¬ 
thrum prefers light sandy, loamy soils, 
and in these the plants grow freely. For 
example, a single crown plant put out in 
May, 1907, will, a year later, produce a 
score or more of flowering stems. In cold 
and wet soils the plants frequently be¬ 
come a prey to slugs in winter, and an 
occasional dusting of soot or of lime into 
the crowns will be helpful. Growing in 
light and 6andy soils, the beds should be 
so arranged that the plants may receive 
a deluge of water at the flowering period 
—an absolute necessity to support the 
great mass of root fibres. It is hardly 
possible to have the soil too rich. It is 
important in the case of light soils that 
the division of the plants should be done 
more frequently. Two years I regard as 
the limit for light soils ; after that time 
the impoverished state of the soil and 
the great crowding of the crowns are 
directly responsible for deterioration of 
the flowers. 

Varieties. —There are many fine varie¬ 
ties now in cultivation, and of late there 
has been a marked leaning to the elegant 
single-flowered forms, one of which ap¬ 
pears in the illustration. Other good 
single varieties are: Hamlet, Monarch, 
pink; Mrs. Bateman Brown, crimson- 
carmine ; James Kclway, crimson ; Vivid, 
intense shade of amaranth ; Queen of 
Whites, etc. Good double-flowered kinds 
are : Aphrodite, white ; Carl Vogt, 
white; Melton, crimson; Pericles, yel¬ 
low ; J. N. Twcrdy, crimson; Mine. 
Munier and Ne Plus Ultra, blush ; Cap¬ 
tain Nares, crimson ; Solfaterre, Cleo¬ 
patra, sulphur; Alfred and Perfectum, 
pink. E. H. Jenkins. 


Single Pyrethrum Brother John. Flowers rieh pink. 


aspects, there is little doubt. The Pyre¬ 
thrum is easily grown, though, no doubt, this 
very fact leads not a few to neglect it, or to 
grow it in a more or less indifferent manner. 
Where such a method prevails, it is not too 
much to say that more than one-half of thu 
value of the plant is never revealed. We may 
regard the Pyrethrum as a tufted herbaceous 
perennial- “tufted” in the sense that the 
root-stock is composed of a mass of crown 
growths or slioQts, every one of which is 
capable of forming a plant and, in time, mak¬ 
ing a fine display. It is frequently because 
of the very nature of these plants that much 
slovenly work results—and this, usually, the 
outcome of spade division. I do not know of 
any plant that so well repays careful division, 
in conjunction with intelligent treatment 
afterwards. 

Increasing the tlanis. - There are two 


'LAji^s. There are tv 

Google 


I where a few plants are required, that the I 
tufts be divided again and again, and eo re¬ 
duce the new plant to a couple or three 
crowns each, at the most. By potting these 
small divisions into 3-inch pots and placing 
in a cold-frame new roots are soon formed, 
and with these in evidence the plants may be 
set out in the garden in good and rich soil. 
These Pyrethrums readily submit to division 
in most instances, and where the plants have 
flowered for two seasons a good tuft will quite 
easily yield a score of plants with single 
crowns. Younger plants do not lend them¬ 
selves so freely to division, and this is due 
chiefly to scarcity of rooks below the crown 
tuft.. In these the difficulty can partly be 
overcome by first washing away all soil from 
the roots and so enabling the worker to see 
what he is doing. The cold-frame is much 
the best place for these young divided plants. 


CUT FLOWERS FOR COMPETITION 
IN MAY. 

Will, you kindly tell me what would he most 
suitable in the second week of May In a compe¬ 
tition for one kind of flower, with its own foliage, 
to he shown in an epergne, and also what flowers 
and foliape would be suitable on same date for 
table decoration competition?—C ompetitor. 

[It is a little difficult for one to reply 
quite satisfactorily to this query, because 
you do not make it clear whether only 
outdoor flowers arc to be used or other 
flowers that may be forced or purchased. 
In the two latter cases I should eay for 
the epergne Mme. Abel Chatenay Rose, 
and for the table decoration also; it is 
one of the loveliest flowers we have for 
either purpose. This would absolutely 
be iny choice in forced flowers for the 
middle of May. Carnations of one colour 
or in suitable shades would be the 
next" selection. However, I take it that 
you, as a correspondent of Gardening, arc 
thinking of hardy flowers, and will endeavour 
to meet the case. If you want something 
heavy for the epergne, try the varieties of 
Iris germanica, of which Kliarput and Kochi 
are very fine, but as both standards and falls 
of these varieties are very dark, and the indi¬ 
vidual flowers very large, they must bo used 
with a light and sparing hand, a remark that 
also applies to May-flowering Tulips, if you 
care to try these, in lighter flowers you have 
a much wider choice. Cytisus Andreanus 
(the crimson and gold Broom), more especi¬ 
ally for the epergne ; Spanish Iris in great 
variety for both epergne and table decora¬ 
tion ; Narcissus poeticus ornatus, May- 


-LINOI 






lot 


GARDENING ILL USTRATED. 


May 18 , 1907 


flowering also. Fine varieties of the long- 
spurred Aquilegias should also lx; out in 
sheltered spots ; the foliage is delicate, and. 
if required for the epergne, cut it over night 
and place in water. Also in sheltered spots 
single Pyrethrums are, in many cases (April 
30th), showing the buds and, occasionally, a 
tinge of colour; these arc charming for any 
decorative work where other foliage can be 
used. A daring, but, if well done, success¬ 
ful, venture may be made with the May¬ 
flowering single Pieonies, many of which, as 
Broteri and tenuifolia, possess, in addition 
to the bright flowers, very beautiful foliage. 
Doronicum excelsuni and Loueojum sesti- 
vum should also be strongly in evidence at 
that particular time. The above are a few 
suggestions which may help you.] 


Cyclamens in rooms.— As low-crowing pot plants 
for vases few things equal Cyclamens for winter and 
spring use. During the past winter I have boon 
watching their behaviour when used for house-furnish¬ 
ing. and regard them as among the most enduring. I 
have had plants in dark rooms for weeks, and they 
appear none the worse.- J. C. 


FRUIT, 

THINNING PEACH AND NECTARINE 
BLOOM. 

It often happens that young vigorous trees 
have such a profusion of fruit buds that no 
doubt as to their setting a very heavy crop of 
fruit is entertained. These are more subject 
to mishaps than trees with less bloom and not 
bo vigorous. Last season I was consulted as 
to the scarcity of fruit on some young trees 
the picture of health. I admit the wood of 
the previous year was much stronger than 
was required. The trees had been planted 
three years, and, being in rich soil, they had 
made strong wood. The result was that there 
was little fruit even on the smaller shoots, 
as though they were literally covered with 
bloom scarcely one set. This would, by 
some, be put down to bud dropping, but this 
it could not be attributed to, as the blooms 
opened, while bud-dropping usually occurs 
just before that period. It may also be 
thought here was a clear case of dry roots or 
deep planting, or what is often the cause, 
want of fibrous roots. It was not owing to 
these causes that there were so few fruits, as 
a tree that had made fewer roots having been 
planted two years was equally deficient of 
fruit, though it had a sujJerabundance of 
buds when started. It may also be urged 
that too much moisture in the autumn or a 
check of some kind was the cause, but this 
was not so. Last Reason a different system 
was adopted, and with vigorous trees it is 
well worth trying—namely, thinning of the 
flower buds. More than half the buds were 
removed before they xvere fully expanded, 
and another portion when the flowers were 
opening. To this timely removal of surplus 
bloom I attribute the cultivator’s success, as 
instead of a dozen fruit in a house there was 
a full crop of extra fine fruit. Of course, 
when the above advice is followed, there is a 
certain amount of fruit thinning after it has 
set, but nothing in comparison to that when 
nil the bloom is allowed to expand and most 
of it to set. I am aware some cultivators will 
hesitate to adopt my advice and thin in ad¬ 
vance of the opening of the flowers. In the 
first place, I noted the want of fruit was on 
vigorous trees, and by removing the crowded 
buds those left are not unduly weakened, as 
is the ease when all are left. I am aware 
there are other causes other than too many 
fruit-buds, and 1 do not contend that drop¬ 
ping in some trees can bo prevented, but it 
can be minimised, and even then I would 
advise thinning or early stopping of gross 
shoots during growth and getting more spray, 
in this way ensuring a more regular distribu¬ 
tion of well-ripened wood. For years 1 have 
noticed the trees which drop their buds most 
are those that fruit sparingly and make a 
gro.s« growth, and though some of the 
earliest kinds are the worst offenders, the 
trees I note that failed to fruit freely were 
Grosse Mignonne and Royal George Peaches 
and Elruge Nectarine, varieties most growers 
would think reliable. By timely thinning 
there is no fear of bad setting. Where bud- 

Digitized by GOOglC 


thinning is practised, there are few uneven 
fruits, and, what is better, the cultivator can 
secure a more regular crop. Growers with 
trees a mass of bloom will find they need 
have no fear as to scarcity of crop if they 
lighten the bloom if the trees are in good 
condition, and Peaches or Nectarines under 
glass in a healthy state usually have a super¬ 
abundance of flowers. G. 


NOTES AND REPLIES . 

Apple blossom weevil — I have, unfortunately, 
had several blossom buds on my Apple-trees eaten 
away as those enclosed. Kindly say how this is 
caused, and if there is any remedy 1 ?—Tavistock. 

[So far as we can determine from the dried 
up condition of the flower-buds submitted, the 
damage has been caused principally by the 
Apple-blossom weevil (Anthonomus porno- 
rum), and partly by the Apple suckers (Psylla 
mali). In the first instance, the female in¬ 
sect lays one egg in each unopened flower-bud, 
which hatches out towards the latter half 
of the month of April, and the resulting grubs 
feed on the interior of the buds and speedily 
destroy them. It is a difficult pest to deal 
with, ns insecticides are of no avail ; the un¬ 
opened bud protecting the grubs and prevent¬ 
ing any kind of wash coming into contact with 
them. The best thing that can be done is to 
well cleanse the trees during the dormant 
season by giving two applications of caustic 
alkali wash, as advised for Pears, and to free 
the ground beneath the trees of everything, 
such as prunings, stones, etc., likely to afford 
hiding places for the adult insects, and keep 
the soil frequently stirred. Both before and 
after the blossoming of the trees they may 
be sprayed with an insecticide for the preven¬ 
tion and destroying of the second named 
pest. Quassia extract answering admirably 
for this purpose. Here, again, the caustic 
wash, if applied in winter, acts as a deter¬ 
rent, if it does not wholly prevent, attack.] 

Orape VLne outdoors —Will you kindly tell me 
if now is a suitable time to plant a new Vine out¬ 
doors and the name of a white-fruited one? I want 
to replace an old one, from the Grapes of which for 
the past few years I have made Grape-wine, and 
which has the roots under pavement, thus preventing 
the means of applying nourishment. On this 1 had 
such a lot of Grapes last year, but they all went 
mildewy, and were useless. I require it more for 
wine-making than for eating. — May. 

[Planting should be done as early in the 
autumn as possible, so that the roots may 
get to work before the winter, otherwise it is 
better deferred till the spring is well ad¬ 
vanced. The Royal Muscadine is the best 
white Grape for outdoor culture. It is known 
in France as Chasselas de Fontainbleau.] 

Crafting Apple-trees.— It is not absolutely 
necessary to remove the shoots from the tree 
for grafting before they have started into 
growth, so as to keep them back. Some 
twenty eight years ago I headed down some 
unfruitful Apple-trees in my garden, and 
grafted them according to the orthodox 
method. Some time afterwards, happening 
to be in a neighbour’s garden when the trees 
were in full leaf, he pointed out to me a 
tree which, from his description, I considered 
to be a desirable kind. With his consent I 
took three shoots from the tree in question. 
Going back to my own garden, I cut off 
3 inches from the stock on which the grafts 
to he removed were inserted. Then I cut off 
the tops of the newly-removed shoots and in¬ 
serted them into the stock. In due course 
each of these started from the dormant buds, 
and afterwards made quite as good headway 
as did the other grafts treated in the ordinary 
way.— L. C. K. 

Apricot branches dying (.1. IT.).—This trouble 
is not at all uncommon. A tree may look quite 
healthy, and all at once, without any cause, ns far as 
one can see, a large limb, perhaps one side of n tree, 
may die, and have to be cut away. The only way w«j 
can account for it is that the tree may "have re¬ 
ceived some check, due, perhaps, to drought or 
carrying too heavy a crop and overtaxing its power. 
The only suggestion we can offer is to use no manure 
in the soil when planting, using only sound, healthy 
loam. Do not crop the borders too closely up to the 
trees, and be content, when the trees are young, with 
a moderate annual growth. Too rapid growth in 
youth often ends in disaster in after years. Lime in 
some form is necessary in the cultivation of stone 
fruits, and this should be added in the form of lime- 
rubble or chalk when necessary, scattering them over 
the surface in spring, ami lightly forking them in. 
The branch you send pieces of is evidently dead, and 
it may as well be cut out. Wc do not reply to queries 
hy post. 


VEGETABLES. 

TOMATOES. 

Not so many years ago Tomatoes were a 
luxury, thoir culture being confined to the 
gardens of the wealthy, lit my young days 
a few plants sot out against a sunny wall re¬ 
presented Tomato culture, in the majority of 
gentlemen’s gardens, comparatively few de¬ 
voting glass space to them. Here and there 
a few plants were forced, hut this waa an ex¬ 
tremely uncertain business, as the Old Red 
Tomato, which is unknown to the present 
generation of growers, and from which the 
present handsome free-bearing varieties are 
descended, was a very rank-growing, shy-set¬ 
ting kind, so that unless weather conditions 
were unusually favourable the crop would be 
a very small one — indeed, half-a-dozen fruits 
oil a good length of stem would be considered 
satisfactory in those days. Even in the sum¬ 
mer season the crop was uncertain, being de¬ 
pendent on the amount of sunshine the plants 
got from the time they came into bloom. I 
remember once setting out about a score of 
plants in a lean-to house facing south. The 
summer happened to be deficient of sunshine, 
the consequence being that I did not get 
enough fruit to pay for the labour of grow¬ 
ing. It was the advent of free setting kinds 
which caused the Tomato to become a popu¬ 
lar article of diet. Owing to the great weight 
of fruit- that can be taken from plants grown 
as market growers know how to grow them, 
the price comes down so low in the warmer 
months of the year that one wonders where 
the profit comes in. Last summer tons of 
Tomatoes were sold at less than twopence per 
pound, and what with rent, rates, labour, 
packing, and carriage, it is not possible for 
the grower to make much more than a half¬ 
penny per pound profit. Earlier in the sea¬ 
son prices, of course, rule higher, but the 
grower who gets sixpence per pound clear in 
the hate spring and early summer months 
must consider himself highly favoured. Last 
summer and autumn were unusually favour¬ 
able to outdoor crops, and that was, of course, 
one reason why prices ruled so low from the 
middle of August up to the end of October. 
When Dahlias bloom with freedom up to 
November without being touched by frost the 
outdoor Tomato grower has an ideal time- 
such, in fact, as he cannot expect to enjoy 
more than once in ten years. From a self- 
sown plant in the open ground I gathered 
several ripe fruits in October. Naturally, 
those who plant under glass for late summer 
and autumn gathering were badly hit. They 
could get very little more for prime samples 
ripened under glass than the outdoor men 
obtained. In former years a good deal of the 
outdoor fruit came in either cracked or in 
an imperfectly ripened condition, but by 
gathering the fruit just as it commences to 
colour fairly, and putting under cover, loss 
in this respect is reduced to a minimum. In 
early autumn, Tomatoes that are showing but 
a faint suspicion of red wilL colour so well in 
a cool shed that they have every appearance 
of having ripened on the plants. In this way 
a good portion of the crop that was formerly 
taken off by frost towards the close of the 
autumn is now rendered marketable. 

The man who relies mainly on outdoor 
crops naturally prays for a fine autumn ; but 
the ease is different with those who grow 
exclusively under glass, for a frost in Sep¬ 
tember or in the early part of October will 
increase the value of their produce by 30 per 
cent. In spite of low prices, the Tomato may 
be regarded as the market grower’s friend. 
It is easily raised, comes quickly into bearing, 
and any house that might be empty during 
the summer months can be quickly made to 
yield something. A considerable quantity of 
glass is now given up to Strawberries which 
ripen in May. and this is given up to Toma¬ 
toes which ripen from August up to Novem¬ 
ber. The amount of profit derived from these 
late crops mainly depends on the weather. 
Abundance of sunshine during the late, sum¬ 
mer and early autumn will enable the grower 
to produce very heavy crops, and should a 
sharp frost occur in September, good samples 
will make from 3s. to 4s. per dozen pounds. 
It not infrequently happens that we get two 
or three sharp frosts in September, and none 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAI6N 



May 18, 1007 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


155 


worth speaking of though the remainder of 
the autumn months, in which case Tomatoes 
in cool houses will swell and ripen up to the 
middle of November, and if those that are 
not ripe at that time are stood away in a 
warm room they will continue to ripen up to 
Christmas. By fleet. 

- At the present time plants raised 

from seed in February will be ready for 
their final shift. This should be into 8-inch 
pots or suitable sized boxes. Sometimes, 
where cost has to be taken into consideration, 
Orange boxes come in useful. These are 
very well for a season, but cannot be de¬ 
pended upon, as a rule, a second year. I 
have used them when pots have been scarce, 
and the results have been quite as satisfac¬ 
tory as from plants grown in pots. Many 
trade growers utilise them. For the final 
potting good friable loam should be used, 
with bone-meal or half-rotted dung. The 
potting should be firmly done, otherwise the 
plants will often “romp away" and produce 
very little bloom. It. is unwise, too, to more 
than three parts fill the pots at first, as if this 
is done no room is left for feeding, which 
should be given as soon as the first truss of 
fruit has set. This point is frequently for¬ 
gotten at the time of final potting, but it is 
one that ought to be borne in mind, as Toma¬ 
toes like additions of soil and manure as the 
roots require it. They benefit also by a 
change of stimulant, as, for instance, sheep- 
droppings, varied with guano, and horse-drop¬ 
pings. Doubtless the most popular method 
of growing them to-day is the long rod or 
single stem, as by this means one can get a 
heavier crop of fruit in the aggregate. Some¬ 
times the first truss of flowers fails to set. 
This may be traced to several causes, such as 
damp, sunless weather, and keeping the plants 
shaded, but not infrequently to over-watering, 
which causes the flowers to turn yellow ami 
damp off. It is better, I find, to err in the 
direc tion of dryness than to administer water 
too freely. The long rod system entails much 
watchfulness in removing all side shoots. It 
is absolutely essential, however, whether 
grown on this system or not, that the ventila¬ 
tion should receive special attention, ns a 
humid, close atmosphere is altogether against 
them. Woodbastwick. 


THE DANDELION AS A VEGETABLE. 
The Dandelion, which is a troublesome weed 
to many of us, is much eaten in France as a 
salad; so much, in fact, that the wild 
plant, abundant though it is, is not sufficient 
for the needs of the people, and resort is had 
to cultivated forms, such as the thick-leaved 
or Cabbaging variety, and the Improved large 
Montmagny, the two best, varieties grown. 
For fine examples of these we are indebted to 
MM. Vilmorin Andrieux and Co., Paris. They 
are vigorous growing plants, and, if treated 
specially for table use, and earthed up, they 
blanch readily, and are a good deal more 
tender than when green. The Dandelion is 
sown in lines, about 18 inches apart, in the 
spring, in rich soil. By the end of summer 
the ground is covered, and the plants form 
stout tufts, which in November of the same 
year are earthed up. The seed is covered to a 
depth of rather less than ^ inch. The soil is 
then beaten down, watered, and covered with 
compost. After ten days or so the first 
grow ths make their appearance above ground. 
All that is then required is thinning, weeding, 
and watering, if the weather is dry. Plant 
ing out takes place a month or six weeks 
from sowing. The plants are dug up and 
trimmed, then planted with a dibble in lines 
18 inches apart, with a space of 3 inches to 
4 inches between each plant. Flowers, and 
also some leaves, are picked off in the autumn. 
In November the plants are earthed lip to 
a depth of some 3£ inches or 4 inches. When 
gathering the crop the root-collar is cut and 
the soil removed at the same time. New 
shoots are soon formed at the top of the 
roots, and the plants are grown on with a 
view to a second crop. Dandelion plants so 
treated may continue for three or four years. 
Then, at tfie approach of winter, the plants 
are pulled up for forcing in cellars by the 
same method as that employed for proclucing 
the Barbe de Capucin. 

The extreme hardiness and vigour of the 

Digitized by GCb 'glC 


Dandelion, and also its earliness, are points 
in its favour when in cultivation, and make 
it a welcome addition for braising and stew¬ 
ing, as cooks do the Chicory known as Wit- 
loof. 


FRAME CUCUMBERS. 

Little is gained by starting to grow' these 
on hot-beds until March is pretty nigh out, 
the cold, biting winds usually experienced 
during that month being against them. In 
fact, the first week in April is a good date to 
set out the plants, the seed being sown about 
a fortnight previous, and if the bed lias been 
made up in advance, as it should be, the 
small pots may be plunged in the frame, each 
containing one or two seeds of an approved 
variety. A nice steady bottom-heat of about 
70 degs. is ample. If the frame be well lined 
all round with fermenting material this will 
to a certain extent prevent a fluctuation of 
temperature within, provided due care is ex¬ 
ercised in airing when the sun shines on fho 
lights. The seeds require very little water 
until the roots of the seedlings well permeate 
the soil, and even then careful watering is 
necessary, and should only be done when the 
soil has become quite on the dry side. The 
flabby foliage of Cucumbers soon droops with 
the full sun pouring in upon it, and a light 
shade is a necessity from the first, maintain¬ 
ing it until the plants are firmly established 
in the beds, when it should be gradually re¬ 
duced, and eventually discarded. While the 
little plants are making headway a mound of 
soil, fibrous loam for preference, with a sixth 
part of well-rotted manure, should be placed 
in the centre of each light, and be within 
10 inches of the glass, to get nicely warmed 
ready to receive the plants when fit to set out. 
Allow' them to make a true leaf before plant¬ 
ing, and one plant under each light is ample. 
These fill the frame very quickly if the point 
of each is pinched out at the second true leaf, 
the resulting lateral growths being pegged 
down to the 6oil as they extend, and con¬ 
stantly pinching them at every second or 
third joint during their growing season. 
Admit very little air until the days get warm, 
avoid too miiqli water at the root, 6ee that 
slugs are kept at bay, and lightly fumigate 
should green-fly find a home. Mat up closely 
until June is with us, and renew the linings 
if the heat declines. J. M. B. 


BEETS. 

We are just now in the Beet-seed sowing 
season. Possibly in most cases rows of the 
round or globular Beet have been sown. 
Those who can secure a good stock of the true 
Crimson Globe have a variety of exceeding 
excellence. Roots are formed early, they are 
handsome, sit wrell on the soil, have flesh of 
the most refined texture, and deep in colour. 
As to tapering or long-rooted Beets, there 
are so many varieties, and most of them so 
good that special mention of any one seems to 
be invidious. Another thing in relation to 
these varieties is that some do better on cer¬ 
tain soils than others, and the recommenda¬ 
tion of any one particular variety may lead, if 
grown solely, to disappointment. To have a 
really good tapering Beet the leafage inay be 
of any colour, but should be moderately 
short and compact. The roots should he of 
handsome tapering form, devoid of side roots, 
and be of medium size, the flesh of fine tex¬ 
ture, and deep in colour, either blood-red, as 
in Dell’s, or almost black, as in Cheltenham. 
Then a good stock is assured. Beets do not 
need highly enriched soil. If so grown, not 
only are roots large, and leafage coarse, but 
the flesh seldom has that refined texture and 
deep self colour so desirable. The important 
thing in relation to these roots, because their 
tips or points like to run deep, is to have the 
ground worked freely to a depth of from 
24 inches to 30 inches at least. What manure 
dressing is given should be added some time 
before the spring, and be buried deeply; 
there is then no inducement on the part of 
the roots to throw out side or forked ones. 
Without being large, roots should have taper¬ 
ing shoulders and good, clean tapering form to 
a depth of at least 12 inches. Drills should 
be 15 inches apart, and seed sown in them 


quite thinly. That later makes the work of 
thinning the plants down to 8 inches apart in 
the rows comparatively easy. As a rule, the 
first week in May is amply early for a sow¬ 
ing of any long-rooted Beet not wanted before 
the winter. A. D. 


EARLY ROSE POTATO. 

“J. G.’s” note on this still popular Potato, 
at page 108, reminds me that amidst all the 
talk about Potato deterioration some varie¬ 
ties have long lives. Early Rose must have 
been in this country close upon thirty-five 
years, and it is still very widely grown. When 
first introduced it was quickly followed by 
Extra Early Vermont, but that proved to be 
the Rose under another name. Its chief com¬ 
petitor amongst early American Potatoes has 
been Beauty of Hebron, or its white-skinned 
form, Early Puritan ; but there seems to have 
been qualities about Early Rose that have 
made it the most widely cultivated. I have 
before me a list of fifty-two varieties of 
Potatoes I grew' in 1873, of which Early Rose 
seems to be the only one generally in cultiva¬ 
tion now : . That fifty-one others have gone 
out of cultivation seems to show that Pota¬ 
toes do deteriorate. But there is, just as we 
see in so many things, Apples and Pears, 
for instance, the fact that newer and finer 
varieties elbow out older and less good ones, 
and only those old ones which still retain pub¬ 
lic favour live on. So early as 1872 the late 
Mr. Paterson sent me a collection of his fine 
seedlings, amongst which were a British 
Queen—not the variety of that name so 
popular to-day ; an Improved Victoria, show¬ 
ing that the once-popular Victoria was of 
earlier date; Alexandra, Albert, Napoleon, 
and others, but not one now remains. In the 
1873 collection there were some ten American 
kinds, and many others followed, but very few 
of them remain now. Yet we owe a good deal 
to these American Potatoes, inasmuch as at 
a time when the fell disease seemed to be 
devastating our British stocks these not only 
for a time helped to stay the plague, but they 
proved valuable pollen parents. There can 
be little doubt that the strong-growing and 
largely disease-resisting strains of to-day 
have derived some of their robustness from 
that union. Raisers now wishing to secure 
fresh strains of less coarse growth may yet do 
worse than utilise Early Rose Potato as a 
parent. A. D. 


NOTES AND ItEPLIES. 

Name of fungus —Kindly tell me whether en¬ 
closed are Morchella esculents or one of the Heleol- 
las? I found them two or three days ago in North 
Tipperary, growing in an open meadow near the 
roots of an Ash-tree. — P. Bicknell. 

[The fungus you sent is Morchella cras- 
sipes—not M. esculenta.—G. S. S.] 


Bordeaux mixture (.Wakefield ).—Get 2 lb. of 
sulphate of copper, and dissolve in a large wooden 
tub by soaking it in hot water—say 2 gallons. Then 
dissolve in a pail 2 lb. of fresh lime. When both are 
quite dissolved, put the two liquids together into the 
tub and stir in 2 lb. of treacle to make it sticky. 
Then add IS gallons of water, and the liquid will 
be ready for use. 


Royal Horticultural Society Hyacinth 
Prizes, 1908.—The Royal Dutch Bulb 
Growers’ Society, at Haarlem, have offered to 
present, and the Royal Horticultural Society 
has accepted, the undermentioned prizes for 
forced Hyacinths, to be competed for at the 
R.H.S. show at Vincent-square, on Tuesday, 
March 31st, 1908. Each bulb must be in a 
separate pot (size optional), and all must have 
been forced entirely in Great Britain or Ire¬ 
land. No exhibit may contain more than two 
specimens of any one variety, and no exhibi¬ 
tor may exhibit in more than one class. 
Division I. (for amateurs and gentlemen’s 
gardeners) : Class 3, eighteen Hyacinths; 
first prize, £8 8s. ; second, £4 4s. Class 4, 
twelve Hyacinths ; first prize, £6 6s. ; second, 
£3 3s. Class 5, six Hyacinths ; first prize, 
£4 4s. ; second, £2 2s. Division II. (for nur¬ 
serymen) : Class 6, twenty-four Hyacinths; 
first prize. £8 8s. ; second, £4 4s. Class 7, 
eighteen Hyacinths; first prize, £6 6s. ; 
second, £3 3s. Class 8, twelve Hyacinths ; 
first prize, £4 4s. ; second, £2 2s. —W. Wilks, 
Secretary. ur| tJ mai nom 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



156 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


May 18, 1907 


GARDEN WORK. 

Conservatory. -Free growing Tea and Noi¬ 
sette Roses planted out under glass will now 
be flowering freely. Marechal Niel and W. A. 
Richardson are favourites for cutting, and 
generally grow freely in a good light position. 
Marechal NieL in some places is rather dis¬ 
appointing, and rarely lives to be very old. 
Under the best conditions sooner or later 
canker attacks the main stem, and this 
disease seems to be more troublesome than 
when this variety was first introduced. I have 
tried it on various stocks, and also on its own 
roots, but I think the Brier (Dog Rose) ap¬ 
pears to suit it best. It. does best when plan¬ 
k'd in good loam mixed with a little bone- 
meal and soot, without yard manure, as 
liquid-manure can be given later, if neces¬ 
sary. I think this Rose does best if pruned 
rather hard back after flowering, a few of the 
strong young shoots being trained thinly as 
they grow. I believe the best white Rose for 
planting under glass is Niplietos- the old 
variety, not the climber, ns it does not flower 
so freely as the old kind. Kaiserin Augusta 
Victoria generally does well planted out under 
glass, and the flowers are lovely. Clematis 
indivisa lobata is a useful climber in a cool- 
hou«e, and when grown in pots and ripened 
in the open air it will flower freely even in 
small pots, and with a little pinching and 
training will make a pretty standard. Tree- 
Carnations are still producing beautiful 
flowers Tor cutting. Enchantress is lovely, 
and will continue blooming for some time. 
Mai hi a is on and other Carnations are coming 
oil. These should, if possible, have a house 
to themselves while the flowers are expand¬ 
ing, and then a few weeks in the conserva¬ 
tory will not hurt them. Nobody can keep a 
conservatory gay without several growing- 
house# to keep up a succession of different 
plants, so that as the various families come 
into bloom there may be enough of each to 
make a distinct feature. Spiriea Mr. Glad¬ 
stone makes a telling group just now, and 
something may be done with the Japanese 
Maples to give colour and tone. The foliage 
of some of the new varieties is very bright 
and effective, and they are not now so ex¬ 
pensive. 

Stove and forcing-house. -Cuttings of 
winter - flowering Begonias. Poinaettias, 
Pent as carnea, and other plants may still lie 
rooted when young, soft shoots can be ob¬ 
tained. Cuttings previously rooted should 
be potted off. Rather lighter and sandier 
soil will be used now than will Ik? desirable 
at the next shift, as there is more feeding and 
slaying power in really good loam than in 
light stuff. Begonia Gloire de Lorraine still 
retains its popularity, and its management, 
especially as regards propagation, is letter 
understood now than when first introduced. 
Sow seeds of Aralias, Grevilleas, Asparagus 
pluinosuH, Asparagus Sprengeri, and Smilax. 
All have some value, even in a comparatively 
small state, for decoration, and they will grow 
rapidly in a warm, close house or pit. Iso- 
lcpis gracilis, a pretty little Grass suitable for 
small vases, is easily raised from &eeds. 
Rivina humilis is a pretty berry-bearing 
plant, also easily raised from seeds, and will 
make useful little table plants in one year. 

Melons. The early crop will soon be ripen¬ 
ing, and will require less water. Discontinue 
watering as the fruits come near the ripening 
stage, which can generally be told by change 
of colour and the fragrance emitted. Too 
much water at the finish will spoil the flavour, 
and this may generally be stated in the case 
of Poaches, which entirely lose their sweet¬ 
ness, and are no better than Turnips if over- 
watered at the finish. If Melons are grown 
in frames, the heat must be kent lip by lin¬ 
ings. if necessary. They should be planted 
in good loam w ith some body in it, made firm. 
Under such conditions the growth is firmer 
and the fruits sot better. All female flowers 
should be fertilised as soon as the pollen is 
ripe and ready for distribution. Get the 
whole crop set at about the same time, so 
that all may swell together; if one fruit gets 
a lead the others may not swell pro|x.'rly. In 
watering Melons keep it away from the main 
stem. Wet, cold soil round the main stem 
may induce canker, which is sometimes diffi- 

Digitized by Ci O>, 


cult to deal with m a manure-bed with a de¬ 
clining temperature. The best remedy is 
quicklime, placed round the diseased stem. 
Place a slate under the stem, and lay the 
newly - sluked lime thereon, completely 
covering the diseased part, and change from 
time to time, if necessary. Ventilate early 
on fine days, giving only a crack of air at the 
back at first, but increasing the openings as 
required, sprinkling with tepid water ami 
closing by 3.30 p.m. Frames must l»c matted 
up at night till middle of June. 

Figs in warm-houses. The earliest crop 
will soon be ripening, and a rather drier 
atmosphere will be desirable. The. syringe 
may l>c laid on one side for a time, but as the 
second crop on the young wood will be com¬ 
ing on, the dryness in the atmosphere must 
not lx? carried to extremes, and neither is this 
necessary, as even when the syringe is not 
used for a time the floors and paths may be 
damped when required, to ensure a genial 
atmosphere. Red - spider and brown scale 
sometimes attack the foliage of the Fig, but 
they are not usually troublesome if the house 
and the tree# are thoroughly cleaned before 
forcing begins. Figs in pots must be well 
nourished with top-dressings and liquid- 
manure, as they are strong-rooting things, 
and must have plenty of food. If necessary, 
a temporary zinc collar may lx? inserted 
round the rim of the pots, to hold up the rich 
top dressing. Night temperature, about 
60 degs. 

Late Peach-house. Disbudding will be in 
operation here now, and it is important that 
healthy, well-placed shoots should be left to 
bear next year’s crop. Overcrowding is very 
often an evil in the amateur’s Peach-house. 
The rule is in well-managed trees to leave 
two shoots on each of the present year’s bear¬ 
ing branches—one for leader and the other as 
near the base as possible. What is termed 
the Hamiltonian system may bo still prac¬ 
tised by some cultivators, but I do not think 
it matters on which side of the branch the 
shoots are left, provided they are healthy 
and there is room to train them in. It is cus¬ 
tomary, and it is wise, to spread the work 
over two or three weeks, to avoid giving a 
check. It is not often green-fly gives much 
trouble in Peach-bouses unless the houses are 
tilled with other plants, and then it may l»e 
necessary to use the vaporiser occasionally. 
Strawberries in pots are commonly grown in 
Pencil-houses, and these and other things 
may probably bring on green-flv. The inside 
border must lie kept moist, and liquid-manure 
may be given several times during the grow¬ 
ing season. Thin the young fruits in good 
time, leaving the crop in the best position for 
ripening. Ventilate freely without causing a 
cold current. 

In the house. — Kentias, so far as my ex¬ 
perience goes, are the best Palms for room 
decoration. Large specimens will keep in 
good condition for years, if sponged fre¬ 
quently, and they have a noble appearance in 
large rooms and lofty corridors. They are 
strong-rooting plants, and, if not convenient 
to place in larger pots or tubs, feed now with 
liquid-manure. Nitrate of soda may be used 
occasionally in connection with some oilier 
good artificial manure. 

Outdoor garden. -Where tastefully ar¬ 
ranged, Narcissi are very effective in the 
Grass, especially under trees and in recesses 
round the margins—not in formal groups, but 
scattered without any set purpose. Other 
plants may lx- used for the same purpose. 
The Pampas Grass, Red-hot Poker plants, 
hardy Fuchsias, when well developed, bush 
or Tree Ivies, emerging, as it were, from the 
shrubbery into the lawn, look well ; and there 
are places where good examples of the Tree 
Box, clipped into cones, may stand on the 
lawn. I iiave had them 8 feet high and as 
much through, and, when trimmed a little 
annually, they always keep their shape. 
Those who think of introducing tub plants 
may try the Box in several varieties, green 
and variegated, instead of Bays, as they nl 
ways look neat and dressy, and are easi 1» 
kept in condition, either as standards or pyra 
I mfds. There is a silver-leaved Eimnyuuis 
which submits well to this lcind of training. 
We have had plenty of nr.n now, and are 
looking forward to sunsii.ue. The May or 

I 


Darwin Tulips are later this season, and 
enough plants to fill the beds should be held 
in reserve, and it may be necessary to give 
them a shift into larger pots. Begonias, both 
fibrous and tuberous, come in well after late 
bulbs. Verbenas are coming up again, and 
some of the newer varieties are very bright 
and showy. It is well to have plenty of 
Tufted Pajisies in reserve for filling in be- 
ncutli taller subjects. 

Fruit garden. -There has been a wonder¬ 
ful bloom on Plums, Pears, and Cherries. 
The recent cold weather lias, probably, 
thinned the blossoms, and they surely needed 
it, but we lio|>e enough will remain. The 
next matter is to be ready for the insects 
when they appear. There is plenty of in¬ 
secticides on the market now, which, for the 
most part, are effective, if used according to 
instructions given with each bottle or tin. 
Those who have had no experience in the use 
of home-made washes, will probably find it 
better and cheaper to purchase the things 
they require from the manufacturing chemist. 
Where grease-bands were plnced on the stems 
of Apple-trees early last autumn, many moths 
have been captured, but no doubt some have 
found their way on to the trees, and will as 
the blossoms fall begin their work, and must 
Ik? attacked in some way. The arsenic and 
lime (London purple) spray wash is the one 
commonly used in large orchards, but when 
only a few trees have to be dealt with, 
paraffin mid soft soap, with a dash of To¬ 
bacco-liquor. may suffice. Newly-grafted 
trees must lx? looked to, and cracks in the 
clay stopped, and support given to the young 
shoots of the graft in good time, to prevent 
the wind doing damage. 

Vegetable garden. —Stir the soil between 
the rows of young vegetable plants, and thin 
them in good time. Prepare Celery trenches. 
In heavy clay land shallower trenches than 
are commonly made will lx? better than deep 
one#, and on such soils burnt earth or sifted 
ashes may lx? mixed with the earth used in 
the blanching. Celery blanched in this way 
turns out very crisp and free from blemish. 
In damp weather, where slugs and snails are 
giving trouble, dusting with quicklime is very 
useful. Very few people use lime freely 
enough on heavy land. It opens and warms 
the land, and keeps down crawling insects. 
Plant Runner and dwarf Kidney Beans freely 
now, and Marrow Peas are sure to lx? wanted 
in quantity. Vegetable Marrow seeds may 
be sown where they are to remain, protecting 
the hills with hand-lights or inverted flower¬ 
pot#. Very often such plants do better than 
those raised in heat. This need not prevent 
a few r plant# for early crop being raised under 
glass to be planted out under band-lights 
when the weather is safe. Cabbages and 
Cauliflowers are late this season, but there 
will be plenty of late Broccoli, and the 
autumn-sown Spinach is growing fast now. 

E. Hobday. 

THE COMING WEEK’S WORK. 

Extracts from a Garden Diary. 

May 20th .—We have commenced filling 
vacant beds in the flower garden with the sum¬ 
mer bedders, taking the well-hardened things 
first. As fast as tne plants are cleared out 
of the frames the latter will be devoted to 
other purposes. Many beds and borders are 
bright with Tulips and spring flowering 
plants, and the plants intended for such will 
be held in reserve. 

May 2tst .—Shifted on a lot of Ferns into 
5-inch pots. These will be kept in a rather 
warm house for a time till growing freely. 
Put in cuttings of various things, including 
Fuchsias, new Pelargoniums, several forms of 
Tradescantia, etc. Anything likely to be 
useful is propagated whilst the bed retains its 
warmth. All cuttings are potted off ns soon 
as they an hardened a little. 

May jJnd.~ Thinned early-sown hardy 
Animals. Moved tender annuals in boxes to 
cold-frame to harden. A few of the bright- 
Daved bedding plants, such as Coleus 
verschaffelti, Iresine, Alternanthera, etc., 
are rooted in frames. The cuttings are 
dibbled into beds of «oil placed on a slight 
hot-bed, and are kept close. Scarcely a cut¬ 
ting fails, and will* be rooted in a few days, 

JNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



Mat IS. 1007 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


and after they are hardened off they will be 
planted direct from the frames. 

May 23rd .—A close watch is kept upon 
Roses and other plants likely to be attacked 
by insects ; sometimes Tobacco-powder is 
used, and in others a wash is improvised, but 
Tobacco-powder is always used where it can 
be made effective, as it is always handy, and 
can at once be put into operation. Mulch¬ 
ing with manure is being done in the case of 
dwarf Apples and Pears. Potatoes through 
the ground are covered with soil, as the 
weather is still unsettled. 

May 24 th .—We are still giving attention to 
disbudding. Peaches and open air Vines and 
the growth of Apricots, if crowded, is 
thinned, and if a curled leaf contains a mag¬ 
got, the insect is crushed between the thumb 
and finger. Looked over Figs on south wall 
to remove surplus shoots. The covers have 
been taken from Peaches and other wall- 
trees, and dried and stored. 

May 25th .—Bulbs which have been forced 
in pots have been hardened off, and planted 
out in various positions outside the garden 
under the fruit-trees in the orchard, or 
wherever there is room. Placed several large 
Palms in tubs, and shifted on a lot of seed¬ 
ling .Kentias. When young these will have 
generous treatment in the way of warmth 
and shade. 


BIRDS. 

Chill-pods for parrots.— Perhaps it may assist 
owners of ailing parrots to know that Chili-pods or 
seeds are very helpful in the eurc of many ailments. 
1 once had a parrot which nearly died of eating 
Lemon-pipa, and it was cured by the use of Chili- 
seeds and by keeping it warm.—H. Jacob. 


POULTRY. 

MANAGEMENT OF FOWLS. 

The comments (March 23rd, page 53) by 
“ Dorset” on the management of fowls are 
both timely and interesting to those who 
keep poultry. I quite agree with the advice 
affecting warm, soft food as a morning meal, 
for having practised this, and observed re¬ 
sults, I have come to the conclusion that 
there is a. material gain, compensating the 
labour entailed in its preparation. Not only 
is it advantageous to give fowls warm food, 
but it should also be mixed and given in a 
firm and not over moist state. Vegetable 
scraps, email roots, and trimmings, when 
boiled to a soft state, help greatly to make 
the meal tasty and economical, and I have 
found an addition of “ Ovum ” tend favour¬ 
ably to egg production in winter time when 
the weather is cold. Barley-meal, which so 
many employ as food for fowds, I do not 
use, preferring pollard or middlings, on 
which they' do well. In cold weather, too, 
chilled water is given once or twice each day, 
and though I had not observed the baneful 
effects of cold water before feeding time in 
the morning, I have always emptied the 
water vessels at night, so that the supply 
shall be fresh in the morning. Next to food 
and water, shelter is found to he an impor¬ 
tant matter, for exposed to cold winds, snow, 
and rain the fowls are hindered from laying 
to a serious extent. One cannot always 
choose an ideal site for the poultry house and 
run, hence the need for some temporary pro¬ 
tection when stress of weather requires it. 
Formerly my' roosts were raised above the 
ground 4 feet and upwards, ns it is noticed 
fowls always choose an elevated perch when 
they are left to themselves. I was advised to 
adopt a quite contrary course, and fix the 
roosts at about 1G inches from the ground. 
The fowls did not take kindly to their lower 
elevation at the time, but as there was no 
alternative they were obliged to. Particu¬ 
larly is the value of a lower perch apparent 
when the roof is an iron one, or not made 
draught-proof. 

There is no doubt that selection is of much 
importance in the production of egg-laying 
stock. Some fowls are more - precocious 
than others, and certainly more productive, 
and if time permit of these facts being ascer¬ 
tained by daily observation it is not difficult 
to learn which are the better “ rent payers.” 
It is quite true, as “Dorset” points, out. 

Go .gle 


that one can change the male birds, and thus 
remove the necessity of parting with the hens 
and pullets. Nor do I find it necessary from 
a profit point of view to cling closely to any 
particular pedigree stock. At the same time, 
it is well to have fowls from a good egg-lay¬ 
ing strain. The buff and black Orpingtons 
and buff and white Leghorns are favourites, 
white Wyandottes have been highly praised ; 
but the silver Wyandotte does not occur to 
me as being a profitable winter layer. A 
good Grass-rim and a dry scrateliing-shed 
are prime factors in poultry-keeping. Un¬ 
fortunately, however, these privileges arc 
often denied. Without a Grass-run some form 
of green food should, when possible, be given 
as a substitute. The waste leaves from the 
garden will do this. Grit of some kind, and 
in some cases lime, are necessary for aiding 
the shell formation, as when this is deficient 
the shells are thin and easily broken. Of 
course, bone, whether fresh cut or dry 
ground, will afford lime, and of late the de¬ 
mand for cut bone has largely increased, so 
much 60 that poultry corn merchants have 
provided the necessary machinery for the 
purpose of this bone distribution. This is 
mixed and given in the soft morning meal. 
Fresh bone must be stocked only in small 
quantities, because it becomes stale and 
offensive. I attach much importance to 
cleanliness of the fowl-house, and to the 
value of the manure made available by poul¬ 
try-keeping for the garden. It is common 
knowledge that fowl manure is one of the 
most potent we have for the land, but when 
only a few fowls are kept, manure is stored 
slowly, and must be set aside for special 
crops and purposes. I clear away the drop¬ 
pings twice each week, scattering a few dry 
ashes over the floor space each time, as this 
facilitates the clearance, adds bulk, nnd the 
manure is more easily distributed. The out¬ 
side fowl-run needs surface treatment also 
fairly often if the birds are kept in confine- 
ment. Wilts. 


LAW AND CUSTOM. 

SEED WARRANTIES. 

At this time of year the purchase of seeds is 
one of the most important duties of the gar¬ 
dener, be he amateur or professional, and 
it may be useful for me to write a few lines 
pointing out the responsibility of vendors of 
seeds in regard to the warranty which so 
often accompanies the sale, or which, in 
most cases, indeed, will be presumed from 
the very fact of sale under a certain descrip¬ 
tion. To market gardeners, florists, and 
others who depend for their living to no 
small extent upon the produce raised upon 
their holdings it is of very serious import¬ 
ance that they should not be deceived in the 
seeds they purchase. Now, by the Sale of 
Goods Act, 1893, it is provided that where 
there is a sale of goods by description there 
is to be an implied condition that the goods 
shhll correspond with that description, and if 
the sale be by sample as well as by descrip¬ 
tion, it is not enough that the bulk of the 
goods does not also correspond with the de¬ 
scription. Again, the same Act provides that 
when a buyer makes known to a seller the 
particular purpose for which goods arc re¬ 
quired, so as to show that he (the buyer) 
relies on the seller’s skill or judgment, and 
the goods are of a description which it is in 
the course of the seller’s business to supply, 
then there is an implied condition that the 
goods shall be reasonably fit for the purpose 
for which they arc said to be required. 

Under this Act numerous actions have been 
tried in respect of seed warranties. Most of 
them have reference to the purchase of seed 
grain by farmers, but some have been of par¬ 
ticular interest to market gardeners, and it 
should be borne in mind that under the pro¬ 
visions of the Act the vendor of seeds war¬ 
ranted to be of a particular kind or to be 
suited for a particular purpose will be held 
liable to pay compensation to any customer 
who is in a position to prove that he lias 
been deceived or that liis crop has turned out 
a failure by reason of defective germinating 
power or in any other way than by reason of 
his own negligence. Buyers also may well 
be reminded of these facts in order that they 


157 


may protect themselves by having clear and 
unmistakable assurances as to the quality of 
the seeds they are purchasing. Let there be 
no misunderstanding on either side, and then 
there will, probably, be less likelihood of dis¬ 
appointment, not to say litigation. 

Barrister. 


Liabilities as to cleansing of road — Two roads 
run alongside my garden, the front a public road, 
the other a back road for the use of tenants to bring 
along coals, manure, etc. What are my rights and 
liabilities as to claims and cleaning of these roads? 
It is a newly-laid-out lot not yet taken over by the 
council.—B rinker. 

[I do not quite understand your question. 
You ask what are your “rights and liabilities 
as to claims and cleaning.” Your rights and 
liabilities generally are to do nothing to cause 
a nuisance to other people, and that other 
people shall treat you likewise. For example, 
if you deposit (or cause or allow to be de¬ 
posited) refuse upon the road you may 
be required to remove it, and you may be 
restrained by injunction from continuing the 
nuisance. If other people do so, to your 
annoyance or discomfort,, you may take action 
against them. It would be much better if 
correspondents, instead of asking questions in 
this vague manner, would state specifically 
what their point of difficulty is, so that I 
could give a more definite answer.— Bar¬ 
rister.] 

Overhanging branches.— If fruit-trees 
overhang my land and the fruit fall upon it 
the owner of the trees may, with my permis¬ 
sion, enter and retake it. The fruit belongs 
to the owner of the trees, and I have no right 
to such fruit, unless by custom, though it fall 
upon my land. If I refuse to deliver up the 
fruit, or to allow the owner to enter and take 
it, the owner will be justified in entering 
without permission, but not by force, nor 
must he commit any damage in so doing. 
Whose is the soil, his it is even to heaven and 
to the middle of the earth is a maxim of the 
law, and if the branches of my neighbour’s 
trees overhang my land I may, without notice 
to him, lop off euch of them as do so, provided 
I can do this without trespassing upon his 
property. On the other hand, however, if I 
am unable to lop them without going upon his 
land, I must first give him notice, and after¬ 
wards, if he fails to remove them, I may do 
so myself, and I have the option of either 
lopping them or bringing an action for 
damages (if any) against him. By the way, 
“ lop” means to cut laterally, and gives no 
right to “ lop,” nor have I any right what¬ 
ever to the loppings. The trees'in my neigh¬ 
bour’s fence belong to him, but he cannot 
sustain a right to have the branches thereof 
obtruding over my property, neither under the 
Statute of Limitation nor by prescription. 
This was so decided by the House of Lords in 
1895, when it was, in effect, stated that as to 
the question whether a person had acquired 
any right by reason of the length of time his 
trees had overhung his neighbour’s soil, the 
then Lord Chancellor said it was impossible 
to say that he had either acquired a right to 
the land over which they hung or to their 
overhanging under the Statute of Limitations. 
The trees, of course, grew, and their state 
each year was different from what it was the 
year before. The same remark applies to the 
suggestion that a prescriptive right had been 
obtained. The tree of to-day is not in the con¬ 
dition in which it was twenty years ago. If 
one of my neighbour’s trees is blown down in 
a storm or tempest, and falls upon my land, 
and does me serious damage (as it may do) I 
have no right of action against him in respect 
thereof, for such injury is really an act of 
God, and the law is the act of God hurts no 
one. On the other hand, had my neighbour 
been aware that the tree was in a dangerous 
state, owing to decay, or had he had notice of 
its being in such condition, any damage sub¬ 
sequently occasioned to me by such tree would 
most probably lie at his door. As in the ease 
of fallen fruit, the owner of the fallen tree 
may enter my property to bring it away, pro¬ 
vided he remains there no longer than is con¬ 
venient to effect his purpose. My neighbour 
has no right, without my permission (and this, 
it may be observed, is not always obtainable 
in this case), to fell a tree so that it falls 
upon my soil. If he doesleb, he, at all events, 
transgresses my right of property, and will be 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


Dig it 



158 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


May 18, 1907 


liable to me for at least nominal damages, if 
no special or extraordinary damage can be 
proved. Some persons think they may fell 
trees to fall upon their neighbour’s land with 
impunity, but this is not so; they must pay 
for all damage, and even where no damage is 
occasioned the plaintiff would get a verdict in 
his favour, as the violation of one’s right- of 
property under such circumstances is cer¬ 
tainly unjustifiable. If, owing to the over¬ 
hanging boughs of my neighbour’s trees, my 
Strawberry beds or other fruit or crops are 
damaged, I may cut the overhanging branches 
at once (subject to giving notice where neces¬ 
sary, as has been above stated) to prevent any 
future damage, and I have also the right to 
sub my neighbour for the damage already 
occasioned to me.—M. G. J., in The Field. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

Questions.— Queries and answers are inserted in 
Gardening free, of charge if correspondents follow these 
rules: All communications should be clearly and concisely 
•written on one sale of the paper only, and addressed to 
the Editor of Gardening, 17, Fur nival-street, llolbom, 
London, E.C. Letters on business should l>e sent to the 
Publisher. The name and address of the sender are 
required in addition to any designation he may desire to 
be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, 
each should be on a separate piece of paper, atui not more 
than three queries should be sent at a time. Correspon¬ 
dents should bear in mitul that, as Gardening has to Ite 
sent to press some time in advance of date, queries cannot 
altrays be replied to in the issue immediately following 
the receipt of their communication. We do not reply to 
queries by post. 

Naming fruit. —Readers who desire our help in 
naming fruit should bear in mind that several specimens 
in dill'erciU stages of colour and size of the. same kind 
greatly assist in its determination. We have received from 
several correspondents single specimens of fruits for 
naming, these in many cases being unripe and other - 
i pise poor. The differences between varieties of fruits are 
in many cases so trifling that it is necessary that three 
si>ecimens of each kind should be sent. We can undertake 
to name only four varieties at a time, and these only when 
the above directions are observed 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

Plague of ants (E. E. Cleaver).—The only prac¬ 
tical way of clearing; the ants is to find their nests 
and dcstioy them. This is, however, in many cases 
somewhnt difficult; hut if the nest can he found and 
opened, the nnts can be got rid of by pouring boiling 
water into it, or they may be killed by driving a hole 
into it, pouring in a few drops of bisulphide of curbon, 
and then closing the hole so that the fumes cannot 
escape. 

Lathyrus pubescens (Cemetery ).—This Pea must 
not be classed as a true hardy perennial, und its 
best plaee would be a cold or cool greenhouse. It is 
of a rather shrubby habit, and does not spring from 
the root each year, as is the case with the true 
herbaceous perennial Peas. When grown Indoors it 
can either be planted out or given u large pot. The 
best way would be to plant it out in a cool bouse, , 
where it could have sunshine, although slightly 
shaded in summer. 

Transplanting the autumn Crocus (Holy- 
wood).—The best time for planting is August. Large 
quantities are, however, planted after that time. 
When transplanting and division are actually neces¬ 
sary, the best time for lifting the bulbs is in July, 
when the foliage is well matured. This done, the re¬ 
planting may follow in the course of a month, always 
supposing that immediate replanting is not conveni¬ 
ent. Dry corms may be replanted far into the 
autumn, but these lute-planted ones take some time 
to recover. 

Cobsea scandens as a balcony climber (C.).— 
Yes; this is an excellent plant for the decoration of 
balconies, or for training round window-sills or in 
porches. It grows rapidly, and flowers freely in warm 
weather, and u little cold does not injure it. Cut¬ 
tings of it put in now, and kept in gentle heat 
for a time will strike root readily, und make good 
plants for turning out of doors duriiiR June. They 
afiould, of course, be well hardened oft previously to 
being exposed, and if planted in well-drained, rich 
6andy soil they succeed well, even in London. 

Grcvillea robusta failing (Bramble).—You have 
evidently overwatered the plant and kept it too cold 
after repotting, hence the “ yellowing ” of the leaves. 
When this plant gets old it is not at all unusual for 
the leaves to fall oft. It requires ordinary greenhouse 
treatment, and in winter the temperature should 
never fall below 4b degs. It is used in the London 
Parks during the summer as a dot-plant over a ground¬ 
work of Tufted Pansies or suchlike. Wc should ad¬ 
vise you. if your plant survives, to plant it out, and 
start with a young healthy plant. It is easily raised 
from seed. 

Rose to name (L. E. Garsang ).—We believe the 
name of the Rose sent is Anna Olllvier. It is just 
possible it may be Lady Roberts, for this variety, 
which is a sport from Annu Ollivier. will often pro 
duct* pale lemon-coloured blooms like the one sent. 
Anna Ollivier is one of our very best Tea Roses, and 
we are not surprised you admire it, and have found it 
so satisfactory, it should grow well in Lancashire 
out-of-doors, especially if you could give it a west or 
south wall. Plants of this Rose upon a wall have 
been known to cover quite 12 feet to 16 feet of 
space. Although a wall would be desirable, it is 
not essential, and the Rose may be planted as a 
bush or standard. The lovely shining leaves are an 
excellent trait in a Ros^fcif large towns-for they 

Digitized by GOOglC 


do not attract the deleterious deposits from the 
atmosphere so much us those sorts with rough foliage. 
If you desire a few other Rosea of equally good 
characteristics as Anna Ollivier, try Mme. Hoste, 
Marie d'Orleans, General Gailicni, Albert Stopford, 
G. Nabonnand, Peace, Johanna Sebus, Mme. Kavary, 
Grand Due de Luxembourg, Mine. Pernet Ducher, 
Mme. Wagram, General Schaldikinc, Mme. Antoine 
Mari, Mme. Edmee Metz, and Pharisner. 

Planting out pot Roses that have flowered 
(Slater). — Yes, you may most certainly plant out the 
Roses by the end of this month. The growths that 
have blossomed should be cut back to 5 inches or 
6 inches, and, if free-flowering sorts, you will obtain 
some blossom again. If you could give each plant a 
shovel-full or two of nice loamy soil when you plant 
them it would be helpful, and the surface soil would 
be all the better if a little well-decayed manure were 
placed uround to the distance of 6 inches from the 
plants. When planting, remove the crocks ami gently 
squeeze the ball of soil, so ns to release the roots 
a little. You must see that the plant is well moist¬ 
ened at the root before planting out. This is a very 
important detail often neglected. 

Distance to plant bush Roses \G. IT. Evans).— 
We presume you mean by the word “ new ” a fresh 
plantation of bushes, not necessarily new varieties. 
If there is abundance of space available, we should 
advise the rows to be 2 feet apart and the plants 
16 inches to 24 inches apart. Those varieties marked 
in catalogues as being vigorous should be at least 
2 feet apart each way; those marked robust, about 
18 inches from each plant; and those marked 
moderate, about 15 inches from each plant. Some¬ 
thing depends upon whether you intend to grow 
Roses for exhibition. If so, you may safely put even 
the vigorous sorts at a maximum distance from 
plant to plant of 18 inches, hecatise it is customary to 
prune back very hard every season; but for ordinary 
garden decoration the distances named would sultlce. 
In the case of very vigorous sorts, such as one may 
peg down part of the long growths of, the plants 
should be given a distance apart of about 8 feet 
each way. Varieties of the style of Mme. Abel 
Chatenay, Grace Darling, Grass an Tepiitz, may be 
given this distance with much advantage, for by 
bending or arching over the strong shoots now, a more 
even eftect is assured, and the blossoming is greater. 

TREES AND SHRUBS. 

Wistaria flowers falling (Brackens ).—Sparrows 
are very apt to pick oft the flowers of the Wistaria, 
and another probable reason of their falling is 
drought at the roots, wdiicli is rather liable to hap¬ 
pen when the specimen is planted against a wall. 
You ought to examine the soil, and. if need be, give 
the plant a thorough soaking of water. We should 
certainly not cut back the old stem, as its age has 
nothing to do with the flowers fulling. 

Azalea mollis (K. 1. G .).—Your question is some¬ 
whnt dilllcult to understand, but we presume your 
Azaleas were planted (not sown) three years ago, and 
flowered well until this year. Such behaviour would 
suggest that they did not make satisfactory growth 
last season, being probably affected by the drought. 
They need little or no pruning, hut if you give a 
good mulching of decayed leaves and an occasional 
watering in the summer, if very dry, you may reason¬ 
ably expect a satisfactory displuy of bloom next 
season. 

Increasing Magnolias (Brackens ).—These are 
occasionally increased by seeds, which are, however, 
not easily obtainable. A decided drawback to seed¬ 
ling plants is that they take a long time to reach 
flowering size. This being the case, they are, as a 
rule, increased by layering and inarching. Both 
operations require care and a considerable amount 
of patience, for layers require three years before they 
are sufficiently rooted to separate from the parent 
plant. If you wish to try layering, then autumn is 
the best time to do this. Innrchcd plants take two 
years before a perfect union is effected. 

FRUIT. 

Vine foliage in bad condition (E. ir. Brooks). 
We cati only conclude, judging from the meagre in¬ 
formation you give us, that the leaves of your Vines 
have been scalded, caused through late or imperfei't 
ventilation on some bright sunny morning when the 
foliage lias been saturated with moisture. You will 
find an article bearing on this subject in our issue of 
May 11th, p. 138. 

The Japanese Persimmon (Diospyros Knki) 
(A. M. Kelly ).—This will succeed in the neighbour¬ 
hood of London, if trained to a wall, or it may be 
grown in a light and sunny greenhouse. If you have 
an orchard-house, you can grow the Japanese Per¬ 
simmon in it during the summer, seeing to it that 
the plants do not suffer from want of water, and 
feeding the plants as you would fruit-trees in pots. 
A turfy loam, lightened, if necessary, by the addi¬ 
tion of some leaf-mould and sand, will suit it well. 
The fruit, has much the appearance of a Tomato, 
more especially a smooth, round variety. The llesh 
resembles that of an Apricot, the colour also being 
similar. The fruit, when ripe, is delicious, the flavour 
being richest when the fruit is just becoming over¬ 
ripe. If you have a warm wall it ought to do well 
with you at Worthing. 


SHORT REPLIES. 


N. Webb .—Get Hobday’s “ Villa Gardening.” from 

this office, post free for 2s. lOd.- Mabel Smith.—See 

reply to " S. G..” re “Preserving Netting," in our 

issue of April 6th, p. 80.- Thomas Goodman.—Write 

to the Boundary Chemical Company, Lut on-street, 
Liverpool.-L. 7?.—Johnson’s “ Gardeners’ Diction¬ 

ary.” in one volume, new edition, G. Bell and Sons, 

Covent Garden, London, W.C.- Winter.— No: we 

have never heard that the flowers or leaves of 

Tropseolum speciosum arc poisonous.-ft'. II. M — 

Not a gardening query.- Harris.— Uow can we ad¬ 


vise when yon say nothing as to where yon write from 
and whether you want the plants as a permanency 

or only for the summer?- A. D. B .—See reply to 

“Margaret B. Scott,” re “Diseased Hollyhocks,” in 
our issue of May 4th, p. 428. The recipe for making 
the Bordeaux mixture is given in the present issue, 

p. 155.- Evelyn Murray .—You will Hnd in “The 

English Flower Garden ” a chapter devoted to the 
hardy Fern garden, in which the best varieties for 

your purpose will be found.- llolywood.— Please 

send some of the affected leaves, and then we can 
better help you.— II. Jloekin.— You will find an 
article dealing with the Felted Beech Coccus (which 
we are supposing is the pest you refer to) in our 
issue of August 12th, 1M05, p. 808. A copy of this can 

be had from the publisher, post free, for l^d.- 

Crocus.— 1, You can try the Salvia in the position you 
refer to. but we fear it will do very little good. 2, 
Get some of the Tufted Pansies, of which there are 
now so many colour varieties, while you can also 
have Lobelias, Mesembryanthemum cordifolium 
variegatum, Gazania splendens. Golden Feather, 

Cerastium tomentosum, and many others.- S. G. F. 

— A distinct colour, and if fixed, then we should ad¬ 
vise you to keep it and increase it.—— Puzzled .—The 
leaves of the Cucumbers you send have been scorched. 


NAMES OF PLANTS AND FRUITS. 


Names of plants. — Monglis. — Ornithognlum 

nutans.- Pool.—A Stitchwort (Stellaria); must have 

complete specimen.- R. T. Woods.— 1, Strobiluntbus 

isopnyllus, better known in gardens as Goldfussio 

isophylla.- A. St. G. Grant.— The Bird Cherry 

(Primus PadiuO.— W. D .—Epimcdium pinnutum.- 

Brackens.— Magnolia Sonlangeana. Do not prune if 

you can possibly help it.- Rev. L. V. Yonyc .—The 

Redwood (Sequoia sempervirens). It is very mislead¬ 
ing to describe as a shrub a lofty tree.- Mrs. F. 

Gower.— Box received Bmashed, and the puny flower 

you send quite dried up. We could Hnd no insect.- 

‘Prebendary Trywcll.—l, Lotus peliorrhynchus; 2, 

Pittosporurn crassifolium.- Fivcivays. — Potentilla 

reptans.- Alice Lyon.— The Nepaul Laburnum (Pip- 

tunthus nepalensis).- Rev. Henry Justice. — 1, Arabia 

albida variegata. 2, Scrophularia nodosa. 3, Ber- 
beris buxifolia (syn. B. dulcis). 4, Evidently u form 

of Nasturtium officinale.- N. F.— One of the many 

varieties of Narcissus incomparabilis.- A. H — 1, 

Erica Imitanica; 2, Cyrtanthus McKeni.- Caragh.— 

Double white Arabia (Arabia albida tl.-pl.), easily in¬ 
creased from cuttings and by division.- A. M. L. II. 

G. L.— a. The Balearic Box (Buxus halearica). b. 
Taxua baccnta, well grown, e. The Field Speedwell 

(Veronica agrestis).- F. Mcarh, Sheldon. —1, Verbas- 

cum Blattaria. 2, We cannot name florist flowers. 

Names of fruits.— Mrs. Stanhope.— Apple, prob¬ 
ably Bramlcv's Seedling. Skin too discoloured to say 
definitely what variety it actually is. 


Catalogue received.— Geo. Cooling and Sons, 
Bath .—Roses in Pots, etc. 


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EUREKA” Kills Greenhouse Pests. Simply 
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FUMINu DUX space, post paid. 

For large users, "EUREKATINF." is a cheap and effec- 
ti?e Tobacco Extract, equal to any other. 7/6 for 20,000 ft. 
space, Ac. Agents in most towns, or direct, carriage paid, 

TOMLINSON & HAYWARD, Ltd., LINCOLN. 




ARTISTIC 

GARDEN 

ARCHES, 

ROSE 

PILLARS, 

TRELLIS, 

ETC. 

LISTS FREE 


WALTERS & CO., 

(Dept. B2), 

16, Water Lane, Gt. Tower Street 
London, E.C. 





GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Ko. 1,472 .—Vol. XXIX. 


Founded by W. Robinson, Author of “ The English Floicer Garden." 


MAY 25, 1907. 


INDEX. 


Aquaria. 

Aiums 

Aucuha japonica 
Auricula flowers . 
Auriculae, seedling 
Azalea mollis in pots .. 
Azaleas after blooming 
Azaleas, Indian, sum¬ 
mer treatment of 
Balsams for flowering 
in autumn 

Border, unsatisfactory 
Cabhage-leaves, brown 
spot* on .. 

Catillages bolt? why do 
Canterbury Bells 
Carnations failing 
Chrysanthemums 
Chrysanthemums, late- 
flowering, failing 


171 
164 
1(59 

172 
172 
172 
172 


Cinerarias, red-spider on 

172 

Gat den frames on raised 


Outdoor garden .. 

170 

Plants, repotting 

163 

Codlin-moth, the 

168 

beds . 

164 

Outdoor plants .. 

Ibo 

Plants upon pillars 

162 

Combination, a pleaB- 


Garden pests and friends 

168 

Pansies, fancy, in the 


Polyanthuses 

166 

ing 

164 

Garden work 

170 

south 

167 

Potato growing in York- 


Conservat ory 

lit) 

(loose berry and Currant- 


Pansies, Tufted, in 


ehiro . 

159 

Com cobs. 

lby 

bushes, pruning 

172 

March and April 

167 

Poultry. 

171 

Cucumbers in frames .. 

170 

Grapes and Peaches, 


Pear bloom, blackened 

172 

Hhododendron Griffith- 


Cyclamens, treatment of 

172 

riiiening. 

170 

Pear-leaf blister.. 

168 

innum, some little- 


Dutfodils at Ditlon, 


Hclenium (Sneeze- weed) 

163 

Poare failing 

172 

known hybrids of 

163 

ehoiee 

166 


165 

Pens, Sweet, and Beans 


Rhododendron Khodnra 

169 

Fig-house. 

170 

Ivy-covered walls, the 


too tall. 

172 

Rock Cresses (Aubiie- 


Flowers, three good 


advantage of .. 

169 

Pelargoniums unhealthy 

172 

tia), Purple 

165 

spring . 

163 

Laburnum (Piplanthus 


Plants and flowers 

1(51 

Room and window 

163 

Fruit garden 

170 

nepalenBis), Nepuul, 


Plants, flowering, in the 


Rose Mrs. David McKee 


Fuchsias for bcdR 

167 

the . 

172 

house 

170 

(H.T.). 

161 

Fuchsias : Points to 



171 

Plants for a walled-in 


Roses . 

161 

watch before flower- 



172 

garden . 

166 

Roses mildewed.. 

162 

ing . 

1(34 

Iy008C»trife, the rosy .. 

167 

Plants for bog-garden.. 

167 

Roses, new, worth grow- 


Garden diary, extracts 


Mohur-tree, the Gold .. 

161 

Plants, names and de- 


ing . 

161 

from a. 

170 

Orchard-house .. 

170 

scription of 

163 

Salvia gesneneflora 

164 


Suowberry (Symphori- 
carpus racemosus), the 1(59 
Spirseas for forcing .. 164 

Stove .170 

Strawberry plants blind 172 
Trees and shrubs .. 169 
Tulips, treatment of .. 172 
United Horticultural 
Benefit and Provident 

Society.171 

Vegetable garden .. 170 
Vegetables .. ,. 159 

Vines, mildew on .. 168 
Wcek’B work, the com¬ 
ing .170 

Weigelas under glass .. 164 
Wistaria, sparrows des¬ 
troying .169 

Yellow Root (Xanlhor- 
hi/a apiifolia), the .. 169 


VEGETABLES. 


WHY DO CABBAGES BOLT? 

When we hear in many directions complaints 
of autumn-sown and planted Cabbages bolt¬ 
ing in the spring, the question which heads 
this paper naturally arises—not that this 
erratic habit of bolting is anything new, as 
it has been common from time immemorial. 
This habit of bolting seems to vary. That 
such should be tlje case is held to be due to 
seasons and their variations, causes which 
may or may not operate to produce this bolt¬ 
ing, although when such is assumed there re 
mains the fact that the season is detrimental 
to, perhaps, 20 to 30 per cent, of the plants, 
and not to the rest. If the season be the 
offender, then why docs it not affect all plants 
raised from the same sowing, and planted 
under precisely similar conditions? How is 
it that no one seems to assume this varying 
bolting habit may be less due to season than 
to some defects of fertilisation in the flowers 
of the plants which produced the seed stock 
some two or three years previously? Pos¬ 
sibly if the trouble were looked for in that 
direction some partial explanation might lye 
found. It is in my own experience that there 
are stocks or varieties of Cabbages which 
practically never produce bolters. That be 
ing so, what is the secret of tlieir immunity? 
Therein lies a problem. Has heredity any¬ 
thing to do with that phenomenon?—for such 
it is when it is well known that many other 
stocks or varieties of Cabbages sown in the 
autumn either boll prematurely in the spring, 
or become so demoralised in form as to be, 
a-s Cabbages, worthless. Yet when the ques¬ 
tion of heredity is raised we are forced to the 
a.-*sumption that all members of the Cabbage 
tribe have come from the wild form of 
Braesica oleracea, a British plant, and all, 
therefore, may be assumed to display here¬ 
dity of character, so far as flowering and 
seeding are concerned. Again, when refer¬ 
ring to the possible effects of fertilisation of 
flowers in the production of seed, and the 
nature of the plants produced when it is 
sown, it is safe to 6ay that any stock of any 
variety absolutely isolated from all other 
pollen influences will rarely show any de¬ 
parture in the young plants resulting "from 
normal form. But in so many cases such ab¬ 
solute isolation is difficult—perhaps impos¬ 
sible—and few races of plants seem more sus¬ 
ceptible to influences of pollen, whether 
carried by wind or insects, than are Cab¬ 
bages; and whilst pure or self-fertilisation 
will produce no “rogues,” the crossing of 
distinct varieties in this way will, and in by 
far the great majority of cases the rogues are 
the bolters. Of that fact I have had ample 
evidence this spring. I have seen breadths 
from the same seed bed and variety in which 
of the first planting some 40 to 60 per cent, 
of the plants had bolted, whilst of a second 
- — .-u.j - I month 


nlantine from the sanreSyed, made d mo; 
fater, not one hadfboltjj) IW Lift, 
rariation is g ncrulhVtfcfrtfttd tXttSeis 


ange 

of 


planting out, as certainly it cannot be due to 
time of sowing; but if further inquiry be 
made as to reasons, it will lye found that the 
bolters are invariably rogues, or of cross¬ 
bred production, and have, in consequence, 
been the stronger plants in the seed-bed, as 
such have invariably been the first pulled 
and planted, hence the difference between the 
first planting, which included many rogues, 
and the second planting, which gave none at 
all. Can any other hypothesis explain the 
re m a r kab ie d i ffe re nee ? 

But there are other facts on which some 
tangible conclusions can be based. Every 
year Messrs. Sutton and Sons, of Reading, 
raise from seed, and plant out in the autumn, 
a large number of. Cabbage plants. Last 
year a sowing was made on August 10th, by 
no means an early date, as many gardeners 
sow in July. Plants from every stock or 
variety were planted out in a very extensive 
breadth of open land, all of equal character, 
side by side, on October 3rd. The types or 
varieties included 40 under name. I saw 
this trial just as grown and untouched on 
the 3rd inst. There were seen growths of the 
most interesting kind, because evidence of 
the clearest was afforded that here, in any 
case, and myriads of gardeners can testify to 
these results being exactly in accordance with 
their own experience, certain very early 
varieties, carefully selected, but not inter¬ 
crossed, over a long series of years, have 
succeeded in producing absolutely non¬ 
bolters, and, not least, very early hearters, for 
very early Cabbage hearts are of the greatest 
value to all who grow them, and are never of 
greater service than in the spring, especially 
during April and May. Such heads then, if 
small, are hard, white, sweet, and tender, 
fill a void in hardy vegetables, which gar¬ 
deners find it so difficult to tide over. Such 
varieties of the firm’s own selection, as April, 
the very earliest, Flower of Spring, and 
Favourite, give absolutely not a single bolter, 
each one being represented by hundreds of 
plants. Other good pure stocks for succes¬ 
sion were Early Market and Offenham, and 
own selection of Ellam’s Early. This last 
somewhat widely-grown variety was not free 
from bolters from other stocks, evidence 
again of the harmful inflt^nce which may be 
exercised even on the best strains by cross 
fertilisation. Of free bolters the stocks of 
Nonpareil, Early York, Sugarloaf, Coleworts, 
Tender and True, Little Gem, Main Crop, 
Early Rainham, St. John’s Day, Christmas 
Erumhead, Enfield Market, and the Blood- 
Red Cabbages, all gave from 20 to 50 per 
cent, bolters. Clearly the way to avoid the 
bolting nuisance in Cabbages is to sow and 
grow only such varieties as experience has 
proved to be free from such defect. A. D. 


CORN COBS. 

When some twenty-five years ago I had for 
next-door neighbour the elder son of the 
famous William Cobbstt, I had ample oppor¬ 
tunity to become familiar not only with the 


man, but his methods of Maize-growing, for 
he had a large garden, and filled it entirely 
with this. He had the ground prepared by 
deep digging and manuring in the winter ; 
then, at the end of April, he sowed three 
seeds or more, but in all cases thinning down 
to three plants per hill. These hills were 

3 feet apart. Ground of fair average quality 
sufficed, as too much manure tended to pro¬ 
duce rank growth and late cobbing. The 
plants reached a height of from 3£ feet to 

4 feet, each one producing and ripening three 
or four good cobs. As evidence that the cobs 
did ripen, there was the fact that Mr. Cob- 
bett retailed them out in varying quantities, 
as he endeavoured to induce farmers to take 
to the culture of the Maize for poultry feed¬ 
ing, and to point out the value of the cobs 
in a greeii, milky state when cooked, as is so 
commonly done in America. The chief 
danger to Maize with us lies in the erratic 
nature of our spring months, and, should 
the plants be frosted, they rarely recover to 
lx? strong and profitable. Certainly it will 
never pay to grow Maize in this country to 
ripen for poultry or other food, as we can 
purchase it so cheaply. 

There may be many persons having gar¬ 
dens who may like to grow a few plants to 
produce green cobs, as these find favour with 
certain palates, and offer agreeable change as 
a vegetable. It is very probable that growing 
Green Peas so well and plentifully, corn cobs 
find in these their greatest competitors. 
Green corn is soft and milky, needing some 
sauce or condiment to make it tasty. It is 
generally eaten direct from the cobs, and that 
is not pleasant in our eyes. Those who wish 
to have such green cobs should obtain some 
early dwarf variety, and raise plants under 
glass, to put outdoors when strong. A. D. 


POTATO GROWING IN YORKSHIRE.* 

i. 

Potatoes are grown successfully on many 
kinds of soil, but a sand of good “body” or 
a medium loam is best adapted for the crop. 
With regard to their place in the rotation, 
there is no fixed rule, but, in most cases, 
Potatoes follow corn. Occasionally they are 
grown after “seeds,” which, as a prepara¬ 
tory crop, has many points in its favour. The 
decaying vegetable matter furnished by the 
sod is valuable, not only ns a source of food 
for the plant, but also on account of its bene¬ 
ficial influence on the physical condition of the 
soil. The habits of the plant demand a good 
tilth. The land, therefore, should be ploughed 
deeply in autumn and cross-ploughed, if pos¬ 
sible, in early spring. 

Seed. 

Small compared with large, seed. —The 
success or failure of the crop largely depends 

* The account of Potato growing given in this leaflet 
is based mainly on the results of experiments conducted 
throughout Yorkshire by the University of Leeds and the 
Yorkshire Council for Agricultural Education ; hut the 
recommendations as to manuring are not to be con- 
sidered generally applicable without due regard to varia¬ 
tions in soil, locality, climate, etc. 


























160 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


May 25. 1907 


oil the character of the seed tubers. In many 
parts of the country it is the practice to 
plant small tubers, tlie bigger ones being sold 
for cooking. There is considerable diversity 
of opinion as to the best size of seed to plant; 
some prefer large tubers, whilst others assert 
that equally good results will be obtained 
from small ones. In discussing their crop¬ 
ping capabilities, two kinds of small Potatoes 
must be considered: (1) the late-formed 
tubers of strong, robust plants, and (2) the 
produce of plants of low vitality. If the 
bulk of the seed consists of the former, then 
quite satisfactory returns will be obtained, as 
the tubers are small simply on account of 
their having had insufficient time to reach 
full size ; the remainder of the seed, however, 
may be the small, stunted produce of weak¬ 
ling plants, and from such only weakling 
tubers can be expected, practically all of 
which will fall into the seed class. Whilst it 
may be possible, therefore, to obtain a good 
Crop the first year from small seed, owing to 
the likelihood” of its being made up largely 
of tubers formed late in the season, the 
chances are that if seed from the same stock 
he used for a number of years in succession, 
there will be an ever-increasing proportion of 
the produce of weakling tubers, with the re 
suit that the returns will become more and 
more unsatisfactory. 

Whole compand with cut seed.— Experi¬ 
ments have shown that whole tubers about 
the size of a lien’s egg generally prove the 
most profitable for planting. Should the 
supply of whole seed run short, it is unwise 
to make good the deficiency by cutting seed- 
size tubers. No reduction in yield, however, 
need he feared from sets obtained by cutting 
large tubers. With this class of cut sets the 
Weight, planted per acre may he considerably 
greater than when seed-size Potatoes are 
planted whole, but. on the other hand, the 
produce will generally contain a less propor¬ 
tion of “small” than the produce of whole 
seed. Planting should be done soou after 
Cutting, and the sets covered in with as little 
delay as possible. Exposure even during the 
dinner hour may be sufficient materially to 
reduce the yield from cut sets. 

Liming the cut surface. When, however, 
it is necessary to prepare seed some days iu 
advance of planting, the tubers, as soon as 
cut, should be dipped into finely-powdered 
lime. The effect of the lime is to form a 
"scab” over the wet surface of the sot, 
which prevents, or, at any rate, considerably 
retards, evaporation of moisture. 

Change of seed.— Too much stress can 
hardly he laid on the importance of this point. 
New seed is unquestionably more disease-re¬ 
sisting than seed that has been grown on the 
same farm for a number of years, and to 
secure the biggest crops, apart altogether 
from the question of disease, it would seem 
to be necessary to introduce new seed fre¬ 
quently. At Garforth, in 1903, new seed of 
four well-known varieties—viz.. British 
Queen, Challenge, Conquest, and Eiglityfold, 
produced, on the average, better crops by 
3 tons 9 cwt. per acre than seed from stock 
Which had been grown four times without 
change. Moreover, the crops from the new 
seed contained no disease, whereas on the 
average 22 per cent, of the crops from the 
older seed were diseased. In both cases the 
seed was procured from Scotland. 

The following results, also from Scotch 
seed, seem to indicate that it may he profit¬ 
able to change the seed after the second 
vear: — 


Yield per acre. 


Name of 
variety. 


tin* newer 


T. c. q. 

British 

ljueen 12 10 0 
“Conquest 12 7 1 
Koval 

Kidney 12 2 2 


Results obtained 
land furnish additf 



Diseased 

tubers 

per acre. 

[Second 

Third 

i year 

year 

1 on 

on 

farm. 

farm. 

lb. 

lb. 

nil. 

1^0 

! 120 

1,20*0 

1 nil, 

40 


in Eng- 
regard 


to the benefits to be derived from frequent 
changes of seed, especially from Scotland, but 
there are grounds for believing that changes 
from different parts of England would also be 
beneficial, especially if the seed bad been 
grown on soil different in character from that 
on which it is to be planted. It is well to 
point out that new seed should be obtained as 
early in spring ns possible, before sprouting 
has commenced, so that the damage which 
sprouted Potatoes suffer in course of bagging 
and transit may be avoided. 

Scotch seed. —-That Scotland affords a good 
change of seed for England is undoubted, but 
why this should be so is not quite clear. A 
number of influences are probably at work. 
The grow th of Potatoes in many parte of Scot¬ 
land is frequently interrupted by autumn 
frosts, and the crops are lifted before they 
are as well matured as the crops in many 
parts or England. Now if the foliage of Pota¬ 
toes is damaged by frost or some other influ¬ 
ence before the tubers have attained their full 
size, there will be fewer big Potatoes in the 
produce, and consequently, a better selection 
of seed will be possible. In other words, a 
farmer will be using for seed a certain propor¬ 
tion of tubers which, had they bad time to 
read) their maximum growth, would have 
passed to the market as ware or saleable Pota¬ 
toes. It is possible that a big Potato has 
more “constitution” than a small one, and, 
consequently, a small Potato not yet arrived 
at its full growth in brief, immature may 
contain more innate vigour than a small yet 
fully mature Potato that may have been the 
produce of a weakling. Granting, then, that 
the proportion of ware i«s greater in English 
than in Scotch-grown crops, it is only reason 
able to suppose that the proportion of stunted 
weakling tubers is greater in English-grown 
seed. Moreover, the proportion of such 
tubers will tend to increase from year to year, 
since the practice of retaining small Potatoes 
for seed insure* that practically tlie entire 
produce of weakly plants falls into the 
“seconds” or seed-size class. This may to 
some extent explain why in England it be¬ 
comes necessary to change the seed so fre¬ 
quently and wliv Scotch seed does so well in 
England. There is vet another point, how¬ 
ever. In spring the Scotch seed is slower in 
sprouting than the English, and, therefore, 
runs less risk of damage. 

Immature seed .—To throw further light on 
this point a teat of immature seed was made 
in 1905, seed of a number of varieties being 
lifted in 1904, (1) in immature and (2) in 
mature condition. To obtain seed in an im¬ 
mature state small quantities of a number of 
varieties were lifted whilst the tops were still 
green and the skins of the tubers tender. For 
the mature seed the same varieties were lifted 
at the usual time, when the tops were quite 
dead and the skins ol the tubers tough. Two 
varieties, grown for the third time on the 
farm without change of seed, showed an 
average advantage of 24 cwt. per acre in 
favour of immature seed, while three others, 
grown for only the second time on the farm, 
gave practically no advantage with immature 
seed. The stock from which the varieties 
were grown was obtained from Scotland. Im¬ 
mature seed, however, can be better obtained 
by planting a late patch of Potatoes, say some 
time in June. The produce from mich will be 
mostly composed of “seed” and “small” 
Potatoes, and seed obtained in this way seems 
to be well adapted for storing even under the 
ordinary conditions of the pie or clamp. Im¬ 
mature seed, obtained bv the first method de¬ 
scribed, is not well suited for storage iu pics. 

Storing ok Seed. 

During the past four years different methods 
of storing seed have been tested, and the prac¬ 
ticability of growing in the later districts con¬ 
siderably larger crop* than formerly has been 
clearly demonstrated. 

Boxing in autumn. —According to this 
method, which has been largely adopted for 
some years by the growers of early Potatoes, 
seed-size tubers are placed in the autumn iu 
shallow boxes containing no soil or other 
material, and stored throughout, the winter 
in tiers in a cool, well-ventilated and well- 


lighted shed. No artificial heat need be used. 
From time to time the order of the boxes in 
the tiers should he reversed so as to ensure 
an equal amount of light to all the Potatoes. 
This treatment leads to the “greening” of 
the tubers and the development of short, 
sturdy green sprouts. It is a method, how¬ 
ever, that involves a good deal of labour at a 
time when work presses, and. further, accom¬ 
modation for boxes is often lacking on farms 
at this season of the year. 

Boxing in winter or early spring. — 1 This 
method permits of tubers being “pied” 
straightway in autumn and transferred to 
boxes in winter or early spring, whenever 
weather conditions are suitable and men can 
be spared for the work. The question of ac¬ 
commodation and protection from frost is not 
so serious in spring. Quite as good crops 
have been grown from seed stored in this way 
as in the former. “Greening” of the tubers, 
which is secured by the first method, evidently 
has no influence on the yield—the main thing 
seems to be the removal of the seed from the 
pie or clamp before sprouting has much de¬ 
veloped. 

Picing in autumn and planting direct from 
the pie. —Both of the methods just described 
have proved superior to the ordinary one of 
planting direct from the pie. All three were 
first compared in 1903. For the test in that 
year the variety planted was Up to Date, and 
an advantage of two tons per acre followed 
the use of boxed seed. In 1904, five varieties 
(yocond early and late) showed an advantage 
of 33 cwt. per acre in favour of boxed seed. In 
1905, an average increase of one toil per acre 
was produced at Garforth by seven varieties. 
In each year these results were obtained from 
Scotch seed, introduced into Yorkshire in the 
previous season, and, as might have been ex¬ 
pected, excellent crops were obtained without 
any special treatment. Even with such 6eed, 
however, boxing has resulted in a profitable 
increase. It must, however, be stated that in 
each of the trials the Potatoes were planted 
in May. From further experiments it would 
|Seem that as great advantages are not obtain¬ 
able in districts where planting is possible 
about tnc beginning of April. If Potatoes 
can be planted sufficiently early for the 
growth of the first sprouts to take place in the 
soil, then boxing of late varieties, at all 
events, is probably unnecessary. It is, how¬ 
ever, certain that less occurs when Potatoes 
sprout to a considerable extent in the pies. 
Such Potatoes cannot be handled without 
many of the sprouts being damaged, and if 
riddling is resorted to in order to separate 
seed from ware, the damage is etill more 
aggravated; reduction in yield is bound to 
follow, and it only requires a simple test on 
the part of the farmer to convince himself of 
the truth of this statement. Where large 
areas of Potatoes are planted it is obviously 
difficult to provide sufficient boxes for the 
seed, or accommodation for the boxes, but it 
should at least be possible to box the earlier 
sprouting varieties. If it be found imprac¬ 
ticable or unnecessary to box the seed of late 
or maincrop varieties, it is better to spread it 
in a thin layer on the floor of a dry, well- 
lighted shed, than to leave it in the pie till 
planting time. The free admission of light is 
important. It has the effect of producing a 
slow, sturdy growth of sprouts which are much 
less liable to be knocked off at planting time 
than the pale, elongated sprouts produced in 
the dark. In addition to minimising the 
damage to sprouts, early removal of the seed 
from pies is beneficial for another reason. 
Rotting frequently takes place in the pie, 
sometime* to a serious extent, and sprouts 
which have come into contact with rotten 
tubers are often considerably damaged, and 
not infrequently killed. Rotting may be 
checked by dusting the tubers freely with 
quicklime before picing.— Leaflet No. 173 of 
the Board of Agriculture and Fisheries. 


“The English Flower Garden and Home 

Grounds .”—New Edition, 10th, revised, with descrip. 
iiotu of all the best plants, trees, anil shrubs, their 
culture and arrangement, illustrated on wood. Cloth, 
medium, Svo., 15s .; post free, 15s. Cd. 

“ The English Flower Garden " may also be 
had finely bound in 2 vols., half morocco , Zl+*. nett. Of 
all booksellers. 


URI 


:ha 


i 






May 25, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


161 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

ROSES. 

ROSE MRS. DAVID McKEE (H.T.). 
One cannot, place this variety among the 
extra good Roses; but it is sufficiently dis¬ 
tinct to warrant its introduction. Mrs. David 
McKee appears to me to be a seedling from 
Kaiserin Augusta Victoria, coming midway 
between that excellent sort and Mario Van 
Houtte. The blossoms have a distinct form 
of their own, inclined to be cupped. The 
flowers are of great substance, and of a clear 
pale canary-yellow colour. As a garden Roso 
it will be a fine addition, the habit of the 
plant being erect and branching, every shoot 
being crowned with a bud. It has received 
the gold medal of the National R r se Society, 


capital sort for a sunny position or a high wall 
! or roof under glass. A very strange fact came 
| out regarding this Rose. In America there 
appeared, I believe, simultaneously with the 
I last-named, a climbing sporf of the same 
Rose, which the introducer named Mrs. 
Peary. This has happened before, for the 
Americans introduced a white sport of Sou¬ 
venir d’un Ami, and named it The Queen, at 
the same time as Mr. G. Prince introduced 
a white sport from same Ruse, and identical 
with The Queen, which lie named Souvenir 
de S. A. Prince. 

Perhaps the most superb Rose of the Kai¬ 
serin Augusta group is Duchess of Portland, 
one of the best of our Hybrid Teas for ex¬ 
hibition. Baronin Armguard Von Biel is re¬ 
putedly a seedling of Kaiserin Augusta Vic¬ 
toria, and, I believe, a valuable one, and a 
variety we shall vet hear about. It is one of 


NEW ROSES WORTH GROWING^ 

WILL “ Rosa ” be kind enough to give a list of new 
Roses for outdoor cultivation (H.T’s. in particular), 
which, in his opinion, are worth adding to one’s col¬ 
lection? Any special comments on Pernet-Ducher's 
introductions which he may have seen will be much 
appreciated. I have, of course, your mid-April list— 
mostly show Roses.—K ingston. 

[The following list is supplementary to 
those which appeared in these columns last, 
year—one in the issue of February 24th, and 
the other a month later. I have nothing 
much to add to what was then said in refer¬ 
ence to the various sorts, but where it lias 
been advisable to offer a few remarks, I have 
done so. The varieties are arranged in 
alphabetical order, commencing with 
Hybrid Teas. 

These are certain to bulk very largely in 
the novelty lists for many years to come, and 
I do not know that there is anyone who would 



Rose Mrs. David McKee. 


and is another beautiful novelty given to us 
by Messrs. A. Dickson and Sons. 

Kaiserin Augusta Victoria is an excellent 
seed parent, und I look forward to some really 
good novelties emanating from it. I believe I 
am right in saying that it was produced by 
crossing Lady Mary Fitzwilliam with an old 
Tea Rose, Coquette de Lyon, and the golden 
colour of the pollen parent shows itself re- I 
peatedly in the offspring and sports. There | 
is an excellent sport, Perle Von Godesberg, 
which sometimes develops a beautiful rich I 
golden centre, and it is a pity the introducer | 
did not “ fix” it more before sending it out. 
The variety is a much better grower than 
Kaiserin Augusta Victoria, although this sort 
will grow remarkably well in some gardens, 
whereas in others it is almost a failure. We 
want to get this Rose on its own roots, and 
then I fancy it will grow well. What a de¬ 
lightful climbing we have this 

Rose, one of most ^nd$;t|ijl vi^Jrj ^nd a 


the best continental novelties of 1906. The 
colour is of the La France type, but it is in 
the form and texture of the blossoms that it 
excels many of the pink Roses already in 
commerce. 

Raisers have tried hard to obtain a golden 
Kaiserin Augusta Victoria, but so far they 
have failed. Georges Schwartz was raised 
from Kaiserin Augusta Victoria, crossed with 
that wonderful deep golden-coloured Souvenir 
de Mine. Levet, and a splendid Rose it is in 
colour, but a most indifferent grower in this 
country. Perhaps in this case own root 
plants* would bo best. Possibly on the 
Riviera, where Mr. Woodall says it grows so 
grandly, it is budded upon Rosa indica, a very 
tender stock, and one not at all suited to our 
country. I have seen Georges Schwartz very 
beautiful under glass, and anyone having 
room for a plant should not fail to get it, for 
it is one of the richest buttercup yellow Roses 
we have. Rosa. 


: wish it to be otherwise, for they possess the 
good points of the Teas in freedom of flower¬ 
ing and dainty colouring with the grand, 
I sturdy nature, stiff growths, and, in most in¬ 
stances, the flower-stalks are such that the 
blossoms are borne erect, which enhances 
tlnjir value very considerably, from a garden 
point of view. 

Baronin Armguard Von Biel is an ex¬ 
cellent variety, with something of the La 
France style of flower, colour a bright, clear, 
silvery pink, with fine smooth petals. The 
growth is vigorous and bushy. It is a seed¬ 
ling from Kaiserin Augusta Victoria. 

Countess of Annesley is, undoubtedly, a 
fine large-flowered novelty, and was well 
I shown last summer. The rosy-salmon ground 
colour is crayoned with yellow, which makes 
this Rose very distinct. It is sweet scented. 

Countess of Derby is. in some measure, 
a Rose of the style of Catherine Mermet. It 
, is not so full, but the centre is finished off 





162 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


May 2o, 1907 


very beautifully, and it has fine guard petals ; 
colour rosy-peach, growth vigorous and erect. 

Countess of Gosford.— The yellowish 
shading makes this Rose very distinct from 
those of the Mme. Abel Chatenay group, al¬ 
though in some measure it comes very near 
this Rose in general appearance. The flowers 
are deep and pointed, and it well deserved the 
gold medal awarded in 1905 at the autumn 
show of the National Rose Society. 

Celia. —A bright satin-pink flower of great 
beauty. Its fulness and large size when dis¬ 
budded will make this variety one of exhibi¬ 
tion standard, but 1 expect it will be most 
valued as a garden Rose. Marquise de Vivens 
and Marquise de Salisbury are given as the 
parents of this Rose. 

Crimson Crown will be a valuable garden 
Rose, as it gives us in its dark crimson 
clusters a colour much wanted. 

Dora, a cross between Antoine Rivoire and 
General Jacqueminot, is a grand novelty of 
splendid form. It partakes of much of the 
character of Antoine Rivoire in its growth, 
but the form of flower is widely different, 
being globular. The colour is soft peach- 
pink. 

Edu Meyer is an apricot-tinted Caroline 
Testout, excepting that the blossoms are not 
eo large. 

General MacArthur has turned out to be 
a good red garden variety, deliciously sweet 
and free, and a good grower. 

Grossherzogin Alexandra promises to 
surpass that grand 6ort, Kaiserin Augusta 
Victoria. It is stronger, hardier, and opens 
better. 

H. Armytaoe Moore, as seen at the exhi¬ 
bitions, seemed to come midway between 
Mme. Abel Chatenay and Killarney. 

Harry' Kirk, as shown, looked like a glori¬ 
fied Gustave Regis. I should recommend i 
amateurs to plant this lovely Rose. 

Hon. Ina Bingham is one of those huge- I 
petalled semi-double Roses of which Messrs. 
Dickson have given us several grand 
examples. This variety has immense Pseony- 
like petals, that are sure to make it a 
favourite for the garden. The colour is a 
pure pink. 

J. B. Clark has l>een very disappointing. 
Perhaps we have not found out how to grow 
it yet. The raiser says treat it as a pillar 
Rose, and tie over the growths. If blooms 
can be obtained like those which received the 
gold medal, they are well worth striving for. 

Jenny Gillemot. —How is it some growers 
drop the prefix of Madame or Monsieur, whilst 
others retain it? Is there no rule to guide 
us, because it is an important point? 1 might 
look for this Rose under Madame, and not 
find it, and thus conclude it was not grown. 
This variety is a fine saffron-yellow, with 
deep canary-yellow shading. 

Konigin Wilhelmine is an acquisition 
which next season we may hear something 
more about. It is a Rose I much like the 
look of; colour and form something in the 
way of Dean Hole. 

Lina Schmidt Michel is a strong grower, 
almost a climber. It has splendid big semi¬ 
double blossoms of a light pink colour ; an 
ideal Rose to make a large bush or pillar. 

Lucien de Lemos belongs to the Caro 
line Testout tribe. It is of a paler shade of 
colour, but equally as bold and large, and, 
probably, of better form. 

Lady Rossmore is a colour we want; a 
sort of daret-crimson. The flowers are of 
splendid form, often large enough for exhi¬ 
bition, but as a garden Rose it will be grand. 

Lady Quartus Ewart is somewhat in the 
way of Hon. Edith Gifford, but distinct, with 
more erect habit. 

Lohengrin, another pink, but too good to 
omit, is a flower of fine form, with perfect 
high-pointed centre. 

Mme. Melanie Soupert has improved 
upon acquaintance. The colour is salmon- 
yellow, suffused carmine, a striking combina¬ 
tion. The petals are very large, flower rather 
thin. From Mons. Pernet Duelier. 

Marquise de Sinety is another of this 
eminent raiser’s productions, and, if I mis¬ 
take not, will prove to be one of his best. 
The colour is w’onderful—a sort, of ochre-red, 
with orange shading. It is, possibly, a fusion 
of Soleil d’Or with aiK"fHbrid Tea. ] 

Mrs. E. G. Hill ramsrtikbe 


bf tex¬ 


tile style of Grand Due de Luxembourg, but 
with erect blossoms. 

Mme. Simone Beaumez is another of 
Pernet Ducher’s productions. Some of his 
novelties run each other very close in general 
appearance, as, for instance, this one, which 
is rather too near like Mme. Charles de Luze. 

Mrs. Harvey Thomas is a charming 
colour—carmine, with coppery-red shading 
and yellow base. A lovely bud, a good grower, 
and a most useful addition. 

Mrs. Peter Blair, a splendid novelty, 
the colour just what was wanted —a rich yel¬ 
low. All who love their garden must procure 
this Rose. 

Mrs. James Bateman will be a useful exhi¬ 
bitor’s Rose, coming near Marquise Litta and 
Countess of Pembroke in general appearance. 
It may be a good garden Rose, but I have 
not proved it yet. 

Mohrenk(ENIO is a small flower of a 
beautiful rich maroon colour, a cross between 
Gruss an Teplitz and Reine Marie Henrietfce. 
A fine garden variety. In 

Peggy, the flowers are saffron-yellow, 
shaded a claret-red. The blooms are semi¬ 
double, and produced in large clusters. 

Pie X., a large, full flower, creamy-white, 
suffused pale pink, is a very promising 
novelty, but more fitted for exhibition than 
the garden. 

Queen of Spain is likely to lie a general 
favourite. It is, in the opinion of many, 
a much more serviceable Rose than Bessie 
Brown. As seen at Holland House last year, 
it was superb, both in form and substance, 
the high pointed form being much admired 
by exhibitors. 

Richmond has not been tried much out¬ 
doors as yet, but if it proves to be as good 
as it has been shown forced, our gardens will 
be all the richer for its advent. It is a cross 
between Lady Battersea and Liberty, and 
partakes largely of the habit of the former. 
The colour is n bright scarlet-red, and the 
form is beautiful. 

Souvenir de Maria de Zayas has a very 
distinct form, something approaching the 
Camellia. The colour is a vivid carmine, with 
a deeper shading. A very good novelty. 

Souvenir du Rose Vilin is a distinct 
novelty of the Caroline Testout group. The 
colour of its blossoms is of the tone of white 
Utrecht velvet; the flowers are large and 
full, and open well. 

Senateur St. Rom me is a vigorous 
grower, with large flowers, salmon-pink, 
shaded with carmine and orange. 

The Dandy is like a tiny Horace Vernet, 
so perfect are its blossoms. The colour is a 
glowing maroon-crimson. Being a seedling 
of Bardou Job, the growth should be grand. 

Warrior has been well shown. It is a 
fine novelty; the d?ep blood-red buds that 
can be cut with 2-feet or 3-feet stems are 
most effective when well arranged, and even 
the loose huge-petailed blossoms have many 
admirers, as they appear somewhat like huge 
single Piconies. 

William Siiean is nnother of the huge- 
petalled Roses. It seems to be like a blend¬ 
ing of Caroline Testout and Lady Ashtovvn. 
I quite expect this fine Rose will be grown 
as largely as Florence Pemberton, one of the 
best of the Irish-rahsed Roses. 

A list of the novelties in other classes will 
appear in an early number.—R osa.] 


Plants upon pillars.- The beauly of our 
arches, pergolas, and pillars could often be 
prolonged by a wise mingling of various 
plants. For instance, Clematises and Roses 
go admirably together. A suitable blending 
of colour, such as Clematis Jackmani with 
Rose Reine Olga de Wurtemburg, should, of 
course, be secured. Then, again, Lonicera 
plantierensis and, say, Felicite - Perpetuee 
Rose, or Wistaria sinensis and Gruss an 
Teplitz Rose might be planted together. 
Even where Roses only are desired a judi¬ 
cious mixture of early and late-flowering 
kinds upon the same arch or pillar would 
lend an additional charm to the garden. We 
might use much more than we clo the many 
strong-growing Teas and Chinas, such as 
Corallina and Mme. Laurette Messimy, to 
clothe the base of the early-flowering 
Ramblers, such as plectra. Carmine Pillar, 


etc.; and if these are done well they will soon 
attain a height of 5 feet to 6 feet, and would 
furnish a supply of blossom in summer and 
autumn, which would be preferable to seeing 
these pillars devoid of all blossom during the 
late Bummer and autumn. It is not too late 
to do such planting, as the plants would 
do well from pots and would be making head¬ 
way during this summer, even though they 
did not blossom much.—R osa. 

Boses mildewed (Novish —Your Rosts have been 
attacked by mildew. Try what syringing with a mix¬ 
ture of quicklime and sulphur will do. Mix it thus— 
plate a little unslaked lime iu u pail, add just suffi¬ 
cient water to slake it, and while hot drop some 
sulphur into it. Before it settles fill up the pail with 
water, and dilute after the whole has settled down. 
Another remedy is to mix 1 oz. of sulphide of potas¬ 
sium in a gallon of water, and syringe the Roses with 
the mixture. 


CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

LATE FLOWERING CHRYSANTHE¬ 
MUMS FAILING. 

Can you give me any suggestions for late-flowering 
Chrysanthemums, which always fail? I can grow' 
Niveum for Christmas, and, iu a good season, 
Western King, but invariably fail with later ones. I 
have Princess Victoria, Dorothy Pywell, Mabel Mor¬ 
gan, Attraction, Clinton Chalfont, Mrs. Jos. Thomp¬ 
son, Bonnie Dundee, and others, potting, pinching, 
(not after June), etc., and not housing till October. 
Up to then they always do well, but when brought 
into unheated house, buds often go blind. The only- 
reason I can think of is that, as weather gets colder 
the plants require less water, and, consequently, get 
less feeding, though I often top-dress as a help. I 
usually take cuttings in December or January. 1 
have been told by a gardener that market-growers 
take cuttings in the previous autumn, and pot into 
3-inch or 4-inch pots by January. Is this correct? 
.My garden is rather confined, iu N. Yorks.—N. E. S. 

[The advice tendered by your gardener 
friend is not correct. Market growers do 
not propagate their Chrysanthemums until 
we are well into the New Year. As a matter 
of fact, late-flowering varieties are propa¬ 
gated in late January and February, and 
considerably later in many instances, and 
Chrysanthemums propagated then invariably 
give good results. You appear to have 
treated your late-flowering Chrysanthemums 
correctly up to the time the plants are 
housed, and from that period the trouble evi¬ 
dently begins. Plants of the late kinds, if 
pinched for the last time at the end of June, 
should ensure the development of satisfactory 
bud6. In London and the South of England 
the plants are pinched as late as mid-July 
with good results. The failure on your part 
to flower the plants successfully may be due 
to two reasons. Firstly, we are disposed to 
think that, owing to the confined character 
of your garden, the plants do not get their 
growths properly ripened. Exposure to sun 
and the free passage of air through the 
plants ripen the growths satisfactorily, aid 
unless this ripening of the wood takes place, 
it is almost hopeless to expect to achieve 
much. For this reason, give the plants the 
sunniest spot in your garden during the grow¬ 
ing season, and give each one plenty of room. 
Secondly, the great contrast between the 
cold and invariably damp weather of Octo¬ 
ber outside, and the protection of an un¬ 
heated glass structure is so pronounced that 
the plants require to be dealt with very care¬ 
fully. When Chrysanthemums are first 
housed they should lie kept absolutely cool, 
and the glass structure abundantly venti¬ 
lated. This treatment of the plants should 
be continued for fully a week to ten days, 
and subsequently they should be gradually 
inured to less airy conditions. It must be 
a gradual process, and you must flower your 
plants from a terminal bud selection. 
Treated in this fashion, we doubt whether 
you will ever see any more blind buds. You 
certainly seem to need a little artificial heat 
in vour unheated greenhouse when the buds 
begin to unfold, especially on damp and 
foggy days. But there is little risk of ter¬ 
minal blossoms damping, except through ex¬ 
cessive moisture in the house and indifferent 
ventilation. Your selection of late-flowering 
Chrysanthemums is a fairly good one, but 
Clinton Chalfont is really an October-flower¬ 
ing kind. A good yellow substitute for this 
variety is Nagoya, a very consistent plant 
and a good, free blooinior. As a late-flower¬ 
ing yellow kind, it is largely grown by mar¬ 
ket growers.—E. G.J 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



May 25, 1907 


GAR DEjYIjYG IL L USTR1 TED. 


163 


ROOM AND WINDOW. 

HELEN IUM (SNEEZE-WEED). 

Very few hardy plants can claim to bo more 
generally cultivated than the Heleniums. 
This is due almost entirely to their value 
as flowering plants, and also for cutting. 
Comprising species of a tall habit of growth, 
with others of dwarf growth, and flowering 
profusely over a long period, both in summer 
and in autumn, it is not remarkable that 
Helcniums are popular border plants. Any 
fairly good and well-tilled soil will grow the 
plants to perfection, greater success being 
achieved in soils that are regarded as light 
and warm. The best method of increase is 
by division, which should bo carried out 
biennially or annually, as occasion demands. 
In the majority of instances biennial division 
will be found of much value in maintaining 
a flowering of a high standard of excellence. 
The plants are transplanted in autumn or 
in spring, the latter period being the better 
where heavy soils obtain. The species and 


H. grandicephalum striatum, and H. nudi- 
florum, grows 5 feet high or more, the flower- 
' heads of a bronzy-mahogany shade, and 
striped with yellow. This kind flowers in 
August and September. IT. a. cupreum, a 
plant of recent origin, is a dwarf form of 
II. a. striatum, with flower-heads more richly 
| coloured crimson. 

H. Bolanderi (see illustration) is a fine 
species from California, the flower-heads pale 
1 yellow with dark centre. The plant is about 
; feet high, flowering in July. 

II. Hoopesii blooms in June, the ray 
j florets of an orange-yellow shade. The rich 
I colour of the flower-head renders this plant a 
I conspicuous one, but the plant requires con- 
I siderable improvement. North - western 
America. 

H. Bigelovii,. growing about 2 feet high, 

' has light yellow flower-heads, and. like the 
last-named, is a somewhat distinct-looking 
I subject. It flowers in July and August. 

E. II. Jenkins. 


Three good spring flowers. -Three small 



llelcniuni Bolnnderi. From a photograph by Mr. O'. Jones, Bourne, Lincoln. 


varieties are easily reproduced from seed, 
while a third method of increasing the plants 
is that known as root cuttings, which must 
be carried out during the winter months, 
when the plants are dormant. The major 
portion of the species belongs to North 
America and California, and of these the 
following arc the more important: 

H. autumn ale. —A variable species, rang¬ 
ing from 3 feet to 6 feet in height, and produc¬ 
ing sheaves of pure yellow blossoms on erect 
stems. The flowering period is from 
August onwards for some weeks, and there 
are varieties of this species flowering in ad¬ 
vance of the date mentioned. H. a. su¬ 
perbum is the best of the tall kinds, with 
yellow flower-heads. H. a. pumilum is of 
dwarf habit, rarely more than 18 inches in 
height, and one of the most profuse of all 
the yellow-flowered composites. There is a 
form of this plant—probably a seedling— 
which originated with Mr. Amos Perry, 
Winchmore Hill, and known as II. pumilum 
raagnificum. Slightly taller than H. pu¬ 
milum, it is a valuable subject for the border, 
by reason of its rie}j-^nd handsome yellow 
flower^he&ds. H. a/striatcy , known as 


vases filled respectively with scarlet Pyrus, 
yellow Forsythia, and the blue a pen nine 
Anemone, have a very bright appearance. 1 
do not know of any hardy flower more easy 
J to grow than these ; in fact, they do not need 
culture, as the word is generally understood. 
They will thrive in any poor sun-baked soil, 

I they need no manure, and, once established, 
are a joy for ever. The Pyrus is not nearly 
I so much grown in bush form as its merits de- 
I serve. It is still one of the best, things one 
can plant in the shrubbery, and looks re¬ 
markably well in an isolated position on the 
Grass. As regards the Anemone, the diffi¬ 
culty would be to eradicate it when tho- 
j roughly established. The tiniest bit of root 
will grow. Some ten years ago I planted a 
hundred bulbs in well prepared ground, and 
although several times I have taken away so 
many that there appeared to be nothing left, 

' the following spring the ground was again 
fairly covered with foliage, and the next year 
i the display of bloom was as good as ever. 
! For naturalising nothing can lie finer than 
j this little Anemone, the one thing to bear in 
mind being that although it will grow freely 
I enough in partial shade, it only develops its 


true worth when the corms get sun-baked 
when at rest. Forsythias are so valuable on 
account of their early blooming character 
that they should find a place in every garden. 
The old F. viridissima is very good, but inter¬ 
media is better ; in fact, it is one of the finest 
hardy-flowering shrubs we have.— Byfleet. 


INDOOR PLANTS. 

SOME LITTLE-KNOWN HYBRIDS OF 
RHODODENDRON GRIFFITHIANUM. 
This magnificent Himalayan Rhododendron, 
which is better known in gardens by the spe¬ 
cific name of Auckland!, has of late years 
been largely employed by the hybridist in 
the production of new varieties' Most of 
them bear marked traces of R. Griffithianum 
in the very large, massive blooms, their 
loose arrangement compared with the close 
head of most garden forms, and the noble 
leafage, disposed collarwise around the 
cluster. 

By far the most popular is the universally 
admired Pink Pearl, of which a specimen 
bush, laden with bloom, is very attractive in 
the temperate house at Kew. Other hybrids 
of this section noted in the same structure 
are R. Griffithianum, crossed with the gar¬ 
den variety Grand Arab. The flowers of 
this hybrid arc very large, of a rich reddish- 
rose colour, and in shape rather more bell- 
like than some others. A cross with R. Grif¬ 
fithianum and Ascot Brilliant, a hybrid from 
the deep, blood-red Himalayan species, R. 
Thomsoni, has the massive flowers of R. Grif¬ 
fithianum. suffused with the bright shining 
crimson of its other parent. These two 
varieties were raised at Kew, and, as far as 
I know, are not yet in commerce. 

Gill's Triumph (raised at Tremough, near 
Falmouth) is also in flower in the same struc¬ 
ture, and a really grand Rhododendron it is. 
The parents of this are R. Griffithianum and 
R. Thomsoni, the massive blooms of one and 
the colouring of the other being blended in 
an exceedingly attractive manner. In close 
proximity to the above-mentioned hybrids is 
a large bush of R. Manglesi, one of the first 
to be raised from R. Griffithianum, the 
other parent being the garden hybrid album 
elegans. The flowers of R. Manglesi are 
tinged with pink when in the bud state, but 
after expansion become almost white. X. 


NOTES AND REPLIES . 

Repotting plants.— In potting plants, will it do 
to repot them into a pot a size larger than they were 
in, as so often large-sized pots are inconvenient for 
a room? If the plants could be put into same sized 
pot it would be more convenient.—A Subscriber. 

[To such a general question as yours only 
a general answer can be given, as the size of 
the pot used in repotting a plant will to a 
great extent depend upon the plant itself. 
A rapid growing plant in a pot 3 ins. in dia¬ 
meter may be shifted into one of 6 ins., where¬ 
as in the ease of some subjects such a large 
pot would mean the death of the plant. Again, 
the condition of the roots plays a large part 
in the matter, for it will be sometimes found 
that the roots are in a bad state, and when 
the old soil, which can be removed without 
distressing the roots, as well as the decayed 
portions, are taken away, the plant may with 
advantage be put into a pot a size or two 
smaller than it was in before. In the case of 
many subjects, it will bo often possible to 
turn a plant out of its pot, remove the drain¬ 
age, and perhaps a little of the soil at the. 
base of the ball, then take off some of the 
top portion, especially around the edges, 
loosen the sides with a pointed stick, and 
repot in the same size as before. If the same 
pot is used again, care must be taken to sec 
that it is washed quite clean, and is effec¬ 
tually drained, for dirty pots arc very harm¬ 
ful. After washing, it must, before it is 
used, be allowed to become quite dry, for the 
soil adheres to wet pots, and interferes with 
the drainage.] 

Names and description of plants —No. l I 

have had over five years. It was in the garden two 
years, and then, as it showed no signs of bloom, I 
had it put into a fL2-ineh pot, hut it still only made 
very slow growth, and showed no signs of bloom. 
This spring it has quite suddenly started, and has 
giown very rapidly; It has -thrown out long, strong 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


May 25, 1907 


101 


shoots, some over a yard in length—no sign of bloom¬ 
ing. I enclose u specimen. No. 2: A creeper, grows 
so strongly that if it were not kept back it would 
soon till the greenhouse. The lady who gave it to 
rm* was fond of travelling and bringing home curious 
plants. This was one of them. Its flowers are in- 
signiJ'n nnt; the roots ure very curious. 1 will put in 
one. The rapidity of its growth is extraordinary. 
No. .3 1 have had some time. It grows slowly in 
greenhouse, but it bus shown no bloom.—M bs. J. 
Jamls. 

[The names of the specimens are: No. 1, 
Akebia quinata, a native of China. It is 
quite hardy in the neighbourhood of Lon¬ 
don, and forms a delightful wall plant, while 
in addition it is a very desirable climber for 
the cool greenhouse. When established, the 
growth is rapid, and the slender, wiry stems 
wind round any support within reach, failing 
which they twist round each other, so as to 
soon form a tangled mass. The flmvers, 
which make their appearance simultaneously 
with the young leaves, consist of male and 
female ones. They are borne in slender 
racemes, the male flowers at the upper part 
and the females at the ba«e. These last are 
about an inch across and deep purple in 
colour. The males are smaller and lighter 
tinted. Both are sweetly scented. If you 
keep your specimen in a greenhouse, give it 
ample space and a light position, or, if you 
plant it out-of-door« against a south wall, it 
will doubtless grow and flower freely. No. 2 
is the Madeira Vine (Boussingaultia buse 1.1- 
oides), a native of Ecuador, ami botanieally 
a relative of the common Spinach. It is 
hardy against a wall in the London district, 
and. as you note, is remarkable for its rapid 
growth. No. 3 is, we think, Periploca graeoa, 
a hardy climbing plant of a woody charac¬ 
ter, with purple flowers, borne in July. The 
specimen, however, is insufficient to deter¬ 
mine. We may mention that the botanists 
at Kew do not commit themselves to name a 
plant from a tiny twig with two leaves only. 
No No. 4 in the box you sent.] 

The Cold Mohur-tree. In your notes and 
queries of issue of May 4th. 1 see it is stated 
that the botanical name of Gold Mohur-tree 
is Poinciana regia. I. like Mr. Stewart, re¬ 
ceived some seeds of it from India, and on 
sending one with inquiries as to real name 
and treatment to a most eminent botanical 
authority, he replied that its name was Butea 
frondosa. Which is correct? It grows well 
with me in a stove temperature, but I am told 
it has never flowered in this country not even 
at Kew. Inquirer. 

I observe that one of your numerous 
correspondents in shaking of the Gold 
Mohur-tree also calls it the Flame of the 
Forest; but the Gold Mohur is quite dif¬ 
ferent from the latter tree, which is exactly 
like a flame in the shape of it« blossom ; also 
the colour is a far more gorgeous crimson- 
scarlet. Its other name is Palas, and gave 
its name to the battle of Palosi, which was 
fought on a plain covered with these trees in 
full blossom. The calyx of the flower is 
beautiful and peculiar being dark olive- 
green. like velvet or plush, and a perfect con¬ 
trast to the brilliancy of the flower, which is, 
in shape, like a large Pea blossom, with a 
very short stem, lying in close clusters along 
the branches. The leaves appear after the 
blossoms fade, and are of a bright shiny 
green. A. U. B. 

Weigelas under glass. —Within the last 
few years a much wider range of subjects 
among our hardy shrubs has been employed 
for flowering under glass. Included in the 
number must be mentioned the Weigelas, 
which are now sometimes to be met with in a 
forced state ; in fact, some standards of the 
dark crimson variety. Eva Rathke. shown at a 
recent meeting of the Royal Horticultural 
Society, attracted a fair share of attention, 
serving, as they did, as a foil to the lighter 
tints which predominate among forced shrubs 
in general. A second variety also well adapted 
for treating in the same way is Abel Carriere, 
whose blossoms are of a pretty shade of pink. 
Apart from their value in this respect, the 
two varieties above mentioned are among the 
best for the outdoor garden, where Eva 
Rathke will flower more or levss throughout 
the summer. A further variety may be 
nfforded by the inclusion of the white-flowered 
Candida. In anv note bearing on forced 

to cidl atten- j 
dfiAi yOut to | 


so many of them after their flowers are past, 
and they are then often expected to bloom 
well another year. It must be borne in mind 
that in nearly all eases the leaves commence 
to unfold, and, being under glass, particu¬ 
larly soft and delicate, they naturally suffer 
very much if exposed to harsh winds and 
frosts, as they often are. They should, after 
flowering, be protected till all danger in this 
respect is over.—X. 

Fuchsias: Points to watoh before flower¬ 
ing. —Fuchsias, when well grown, are very 
beautiful, and in a greenhouse are not the 
least attractive of the subjects therein to be 
found, but sometimes, after the promise of 
flowers, the buds, instead of expanding, turn 
yellow, and mysteriously drop off. Various 
reasons may be assigned for this—one being 
too much moisture at the roots and another 
a close, stuffy atmosphere. Whilst the for¬ 
mer is not an infrequent cause, the badly 
ventilated house, I fear, is the primary cause, 
and I have observed this on several occasions. 
Much may, therefore, be done just now' for 
Fuchsias bv keeping the atmosphere cool and 
attending to ventilation. They neither need 
nor are they at any time benefited by being 
kept in a high temperature ; just keep frost 
out of a house where Fuchsias are kept in 
the winter, and let them have cool treatment 
in the summer, and the probability is that 
success will follow.— Woodbastwick. 

Balsams for flowering in autumn. Tn 
sowing the seed of Balsams—plants, I fear, 
that are too seldom grown nowadays -it 
should not he forgotten that from a later 
sowing one may have a most charming dis¬ 
play in the greenhouse in autumn. Balsams 
should be given a very lil>eral diet. Good 
friable loam and cow-dung, or bone-meal, 
with a little sand and leaf mould, form a good 
compost, and if the plants are shifted on, in¬ 
stead of being allowed to get pot bound, they 
will soon develop into healthy specimens. 
For the final potting for autumn blooming, 
6-inch or 7-incli pots will he large enough.— 
Lea hurst. 

Arums. —A few weeks ago I find insl ruc¬ 
tions given in your valuable paper on growing 
these most charming plants, and notice that 
the grower is advised to place his plants on a 
shady border in the summer and gradually 
dry them off. I am aware that this is the 
usual method of treating these plants, but, 
personally, I think it is an entirely wrong 
one. In its native habitat this plant grows 
in swamps and is never dry; therefore it 
occurred to me that I could not do better 
than try to grow it naturally, and, having a 
small pond, I decided to plunge the pots in 
the water as soon as the danger of frost was 
over, and leave the plants to take care of 
themselves, and the results have fully justi¬ 
fied my hopes. The foliage is magnificent., 
and the blooms arc remarkably fine and 
early; indeed, the blooms go on all through 
the summer in the water without in the 
slightest degree impoverishing the plant for 
its winter work. At first, much of the forced 
foliage dies down, but is quickly replaced and 
the group presents a most beautiful appear¬ 
ance all the summer. About the third week 
in September I lift the pots out of the water, 
stand them for twenty-four hours on the bor¬ 
der to drain a little, then top-dress, and put 
into a greenhouse which is not kept hot. 
By the middle of November the flowers begin 
to expand, and arc still, in the third week in 
April, giving their final blossoms. I do 
not repot until the pots are absolutely full of 
roots. I am anxious that this manner of 
growing Arums should be better known, as 
it is certainly the very best, and if there is 
no pond at hand, then the plants should be 
freely watered all through the hot weather, 
and never, in my opinion, allowed to become 
dry. I am sure that once tried the old idea 
of drying off will be for ever abandoned.— 
L. Worker, fi rinks way, Shottermill. 

Summer treatment of Indian Azaleas.— 
Amongst, the many greenhouse plants few' arc 
grown more extensively than these, and cer¬ 
tainly none more abused, especially during 
the growing season. In your issue for April 
6th there was a most instructive article on 
their growth. By early in June most of the 
plants have gone out of bloom. The seed 
pods should be picked off, and if the plants 


shrubs it will not be ou 
tion to^tlie verv rougj^tr^f^ 


' need more room, this is the best season to 
I repot. The soil should be good peat, with 
plenty of silver sand. Garden frames are 
most useful to promote growth in late bloorn- 
| ing plants, as these can be kept moist and 
close. When growth is completed the lights 
may be removed to harden the wood. Few 
things suffer more from thripa than do 
Azaleas. If the leaves are kept syringed 
freely on the under side but little trouble 
will l>e experienced. As a prevention it is 
wise to give the plants an occasional syring¬ 
ing with some good insecticide. Many errors 
are made in the watering. When the pot is 
full of roots it is astonishing the amount of 
water the plants need. I do not place my 
plants in the open, having a cold, airy house. 
I place each pot in a larger one, filling the 
space with Mass or Cocoa-nut-fibre, this re¬ 
ducing the watering enormously.—J. C. F. 

Salvia gesneraeflora.— This and other win¬ 
ter and spring-blooming Salvias do not ap- 
pear to be so largely grown as in years gone 
by. This may arise from the abundance of 
flowering shrubs now to be had, and that 
lend themselves so w 11 to forcing. All the 
same, the above and S. fulgens are very use¬ 
ful. 1 know of nothing that gives such a 
bright mass of colour at so little cost in 
spring as do these Salvias. T was reminded 
of this during the last half of March when 
going over the gardens at Frimley Park. 
Surrey. Here I saw large plants from 4 feet 
to 5 feet high, and almost its much through, 
a mass of scarlet. These winter afid spring¬ 
blooming Salvias have much to recommend 
them. Amongst the most prominent is the 
ease with which such large plants can !>o bad. 
Many years ago 1 used to strike cuttings in 
March, potting them on and giving them their 
last shift into 12-inch pots about midsummer. 
They were stood in an open position till indi¬ 
cations of frost, when they where removed to 
a cold house, giving no heat till near Christ¬ 
mas, when slight warmth was given. Smaller 
although equally useful plants may b? ob¬ 
tained by rooting cuttings in Mav. These 
make nice plants for furnishing.—J. C. F. 

Carden frames on raised beds. -Un¬ 
doubtedly more value was placed on garden 
frames in years gone past than now'. I am 
convinced there is no kind of glass structure 
that has so much value, all points con¬ 
sidered, as a garden frame. In our garden I 
have many of these, and seldom can an 
empty one be found. Their greatest value is 
during the first seven months of the year— 
more especially the spring months. I con¬ 
sider their most important use is for placing 
on raised beds to bring forward early vege¬ 
tables. I have come to regard fire heat as a 
great foe to many things, unless used with 
great care. During the past autumn I kept 
Kehizantlius, Cinerarias, etc., on spent hot 
beds till the turn of the year, by being care¬ 
ful as to watering, etc. Another purpose 
frames arc useful for is to bring forward 
annuals, such as Stocks, Asters, and kindred 
things. I have found these raised in this 
way far more sturdy than in any other. 
Some may say they have nothing to make 
the beds of, but I am convinced there are few 
gardens in which something may not b» had. 
I use the stumps of such as Brussels Sprouts, 
Cabbages, etc., to put on the bottom. On 
these I put leaves of any kind, with some 
manure, and then soil in which to sow the 
seeds. Spent Hops, tail, and a host of 
things may be named—all good.— Dorset. 

Spiraeas for forcing —My attention was called 
to a number of pots of Spine as tins spring that had 
turned out failures after being forced, and on ask¬ 
ing when and where the clumps were purchased. I 
elicited the reply that they had been forced the pre¬ 
vious year. It is futile to attempt to force Spira*as 
two years in succession. The very best thing to do, 
after a plant has bloomed in pots, is to harden it off. 
and then plant out in some pood rich soil for a couple 
of years. I have had much experience with these 
showy, water-loving plants, and have found it best 
to get rested clumps each year.— Woodbastwick. 

A pleasini? combination.— An extremely pleas¬ 
ing, yet at the same time uncommon, combination 
may be seen in No. 4 greenhouse at Kew. It consists 
of the scarlet Salvia splendens and Lilimn longi- 
florum, whose long white trumpets serve admirably 
as a foil to the vivid hue of the Salvia. An interest¬ 
ing item in connection with this group is the fact 
of the Salvia flowering at this time of the year, for, 
as a rule, autumn is its i season of blooming. The 
plants now so bright, after flowering last autumn, 
were. 1 helie-ye^ k^pt somewhat warmer than usual, 
the result being this fine ftpifng display.-X. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



Mat 25, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


165 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 


PURPLE ROCK CRESSES (AUBRIETIA). 
This harsh, late spring, with its fierce rain 
and sleet storms in the district I write of, has 
been a severe trial to hardy plants, even 
the hardiest being injured in flower. But one 
that has come out of the ordeal best of all 
is the Purple Roek Cress. The long-bloom¬ 
ing season and endurance of these flowers in 
the fiercest rainstorms make them most 
precious for all who value good colour in 
gardens. They have also other good quali- 


walls, flowering and draping them with | 
beauty every year. Of late there has been a ! 
considerable acquisition to the kinds, and 
one cannot say' that there is any bad colour 
among them. There are some very distinct 
kinds. The dark violet one called Dr. Mules 
is quite fresh and effective in colour in a i 
garden. It is best grouped by itself, but this 
year it is very beautiful in one place mixed ^ 
with other kinds, so that there is a gentle play I 
of colour among them. There is also a dis- I 
tinet addition in A. Moerheimi, which gives 
us a fine variety, and also a new colour for . 
the flower garden. There are many other 
varieties, and one may say they arc all good, I 


A. Dr. Mules. —This is a gem, and quite 
unique in colour— a rich dark purple. 

A. Hendkrsoni. —Good free grower, 
flowers deep lilac or violet shade. 

A. Leichtlini. —Not so pretty in colour as 
the purple and violet kinds, we think. 

A. Moerheimi. —Flowers of large size, and 
coloured a delicate rose shade. A very good 
and distinct variety. 

A. Prichard’s Al.—One of the best cf the 
dark coloured varieties. 

There are other forms in cultivation, as 
violaeea, the old purpurea, that differ but 
slightly in habit or flowering from some of 
these given above. 



ties in their compact habit of growth, 
keeping themselves clean for some years 
(they mat so closely together), their neat 
habit (they are among the very best of rock 
plants in that respect), and the colour of the 
foliage, which is pleasant, so that they are 
suitable for various situations in the rock 
garden, or as handsome edgings, and even for 
growing on walls. 


The illustration show’s plants growing on 
a low wall. They are self sown—that is to 
say, they came up spontaneously, and, no 
doubt, from the action of the birds or the 
wind—and the effect has been very good for 
quite six weeks. On aLi4$y” wall thq 
of course, at home; |ome/ 


all tli«y are, 
av \^ r l I s5,c h 


though I think least of the red kinds, which 
do not seem a true colour. 

As to culture, they will almost grow in any¬ 
thing, and, being natives of a hottish country, 
like Greece, they will put up with the most 
arid conditions ; hut they will also repay one 
in good deep soil in making dense masses of 
flower. They are, perhaps, the easiest culti¬ 
vated of all alpine plants. 

A. Campbelli. Dense cushion like tuft, 
small flowers, a pale violet. 

A. deltoidea. —Many kinds in cultivation 
are regarded as varieties of this plant. 

A. gra«ca. —One of the best of the older 
forms, vigorous in growth, and free flowering. 
Flowers deep lilac. 


The above are the best, and it would be a 
mistake to add more names. The plants are 
mostly forms of one wild kind, and to attempt 
to give descriptions of more cannot serve any 
good end. A pretty and recent form is one 
called Lavender, and one raised by Mr. Geo. 
Paul, Novelty, is a good, vigorous grower. 
Sometimes the plants sow themselves, ns in 
the illustration, and pretty varieties may be 
found which some would name, but they are 
rarely worth naming. All the kinds are 
pretty in colour, whether wild or raised in 
gardens. _ S. 

Honesty.r-pl sowed a packet of Honesty 
seeds last Mav, and, despite ihe, dry weather 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 











166 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


May 25, 1907 


and the exceptionally severe winter, which 
killed a few, there are yet many from which 
the silvery pods will be gathered later. Just 
at present the plants are full of bud, and 
though the chief reason why they are grown 
is because of the beauty of the “ pods, ,r they 
still have a value when in bloom, for both 
the white and purple blooms of Lunaria bien¬ 
nis are very pretty amongst early summer 
flowers. Need it be said, anent this very old- 
fashioned thing, that plants will grow in 
every garden where the situation is anything 
like open, for the soil need not be rich, as 
they grow very freely. As is well known, the 
silvery pods are in much request, and it. is to 
this end that those who would have them 
another year should sow the seed now 1 .— 
Leahurst. 

CHOICE DAFFODILS AT D1TTON. 


The fame of the Messrs. Barr’s collection of 
Daffodils is world-wide, and during the 
flowering season visitors from far and near 
visit the nurseries at Ditton to get, if pos¬ 
sible, a glimpse of the newest and the best. 
Whole fields arc filled with the bulbs, acre 
after acre being occupied with choice and 
rare kinds, not in ones or twos, but, gener¬ 
ally speaking, in very considerable numbers. 
Such Daffodils as the renowned Peter Barr, 
now' priced at £30 per bulb, is not yet seen in 
quantity, but in sufficient numbers to stamp 
it. as the best of white-flowered Daffodils. 
And what is true of Peter Barr is true of the 
great majority; indeed, vigour and fine 
stature are strong points of the seedlings of 
to-day, and the newest and best of recent 
years. Obviously the newer Daffodils bear 
the impression of such kinds as Mme. de 
Graaff, Wcardale Perfection, Monarch, and 
others, while not a few produce unmistakable 
evidence of n maximus or a Berkeley in their 
make up. Stature in the Daffodil is, natur¬ 
ally, a fine feature, from the spectator’s 
point of view ; it is also a fine attribute in the 
flower. Among other white flowered Daffo¬ 
dils Alice Knights will long hold a place as 
th * earliest of all white trumpet sorts. It is 
a beautiful flower, of fine texture and large 
crown, with well reflexing brim. It is in 
ev:rv way excellent and free flowering. 
Lady Audrey, like the two preceding kinds, 
was* raised in these nurseries. We were 
greatly impressed by the handsome trumpet, 
at first creamy and finally white. The 
perianth segments are very large, slightly 
furrowed or revolute, and of unusual length 
and width, quite filling up the back portion 
of the flower. Loveliness, catalogued at 


fifteen guineas per bulb, is one of the most 
beautiful in the whole collection, at once dis¬ 
tinct by reason of its elegant, somewhat 
drooping, habit. Equally good is Henri Vil- 
moriii, a highly-re fined flower with something 
of the Empress form. Very chaste and beauti¬ 
ful, too, arc such as Lady of the Snows and 
Mrs. George H. Barr, both high-class novel¬ 
ties, and delightful flowers. Mme. de Graaff, 
still among the finest and the best of white- 
flowered sorts, is now sufficiently reasonable 
in price to be freely and largely planted. It 
is almost alone in the great reflex of its 
crown, and, withal, a splendid grower. The 
variety, too, has the great merit of lasting 
well, a property not to be ignored in outdoor 
gardening. In the self yellow' class we have 
in C. II. Curtis not only a flower of the 
noblest proportions, but one also of remark¬ 
able finish and fine colouring Taking after 
the well known Monarch, it is superior to it 
in the fine expanding trumpet and more in¬ 
tense colour. We regard this as the finest 
thing in self-yellow Daffodils we have seen. 
George Philip Haydon is also a superb kind 
of fine stature and very bold. Cleopatra, 
Guinea Gold—a good descriptive name for 
this handsome kind ; King Alfred, that mag¬ 
nificent rich yellow of which one never tires ; 
Lord Roberts, a really superb, highly finished 
flower, a shade paler than Monarch, perhaps, 
arc all fine, vigorous sorts of the highest, ex¬ 
cellence. Then, in the bicolor class, we have 
still to look upon Wcardale Perfection os a 
grand Daffodil. and one whose gradually 
diminishing price will render it more than 
ever popular. Pharaoh is one of the newer 


sorts, very liandso 
the mouth 


very liandsomg^ and well exiiam 
3Uth, which i/lieavt-L' c r inkl4d.> 


landed at 
Pyra 


mus is another with a brim almost rolled 
back, and the twain ore from one raiser. 
E. T. Cook has a fine deep chrome yellow 
trumpet and white perianth. Hatfield Beauty, 
Hulda, Mrs. Buchanan, Victoria, Duke of 
Bedford, a very handsome flower, Isolde, 
Mrs. Morland Crossfield, very pure in petal, 
with long, bold trumpet of rich yellow, and 
Cygnet, are all important members of this set. 

Two kinds that may be regarded quite apart 
from any general collection are N. odorus 
rugulosus maximus. the giant of the Jonquil 
Daffodils, whoso rich yellow flowers are very 
striking, and Major Spurrell, of the Barri 
group, whose scarlet crown Mr. Barr regards 
as the brightest in colour of all. In the same 
section Glitter is a very remarkable flower, 
while Occident, a shapely flower and fiery 
crown coloured to the base, is not to be over¬ 
looked. In the Burbidgei set Scarletta, 
Vivid, and Sceptre are very distinct and good 
in colour. Mast chaste of all, perhaps, are 
the Leedsi varieties, for it is here that we 
find the satiny beauty and delicate or glisten¬ 
ing whiteness of not a few of the mast beauti¬ 
ful kinds in commerce. Some of the choicest 
sorts are Agnes Harvey, Bianca, Amazon, 
Janet Image, Maggie May, Heroine, White 
Queen, White Lady, and Duchess de Brabant, 
the two last-named among the older sorts, 
yet still among the most beautiful. 

There still remains two highly important 
groups or sections—the incomparabilis and 
the poeticue—in each of which there is a 
wealth of beauty and variety with which it 
is not possible to deal. In both groups great 
strides have been made during recent years, 
and in both sections there remains much to 
be done. Horace, Glory, Dante, Cassandra, 
and The Bride are among the finest in the 
poeticus set. The new Engleliearti set. with 
fluted disc-like crown, contains some brilliant¬ 
eyed flowers, the crown as large as a shilling, 
and of intense colouring, ns a rule. Incog¬ 
nita, Cresset-, Royal Star, and Concord arc 
some of the stars in this remarkable group. 
The Queen of Spain, typical of the Johnstoni 
section, was in beautiful condition on a hedge 
bank, and is really a charming kind in Grass. 
There are some handsome novelties belonging 
to this set not yet in commerce. 

Quite a large number of those we have 
named are novelties, or the choice or high- 
priced kinds of commerce, but over and above 
these there are hundreds of good free-flower¬ 
ing and valuable sorts to be met. in these 
nurseries well suited to the amateur, and 
calculated to afford him a vast amount of 
pleasure during the early months of the year. 

E. H. Jenkins. 


PLANTS FOR A WALLED IN GARDEN. 
I am anxious to grow some flowers in my little bit of 
garden—Roses would be preferred, but 1 am afraid 
it is too much to expect them to grow. The garden 
referred to is in my back yard, and I live about 
three-quarters of a mile from the centre of the town 
(Wigan). The said yard is 25 feet by 18 feet, sur¬ 
rounded by a wall. The house is one of a row, and 
back to back with another row of houses, having 
yards longer than mine, and a passage runs between 
the two yards, 10 feet wide, so that the yard is 
pretty open. I enclose a rough sketch of the yard, 
showing garden. 1 have numbered the beds on the 
sketch. In bed one I want- a climber up the wall. 
Rose-tree preferred, but will be advised by you. 
What else will grow on this bed? It is 25 feet by 
2.\ feet, and 1 have bad the old soil taken out anti 
fresh soil put in, together with plenty of cow-man lire ; 
it gets very little sun. In bed two 1 intend to try 
five Rose-trees—one in centre and one at. euch corner. 
The soil is 3 feet deep, composed of cow-manure and 
soil olf an old meadow. If you advise not to try 
Roses, I will be sorry. Name plants you advise, 
please? On bed three is nothing but shale.v and 
clayey stuff 1 got when preparing 1 lie other beds; 
but, when 1 can. I shall have this rubbish carted 
away and goal soil put in its place; no sun whatever 
on this bed, us the wall shades it. Bed four is at 
present a flag, which 1 intend taking up and making 
into a bed for a flowering creeper to climb up the 
wall; not much sun shines here. What will grow 
here, please?— Rose Lover. 

[It is obvious from the sketch you have sent 
us, showing a wall 5 feet in height all round 
your garden, which is situated comparatively 
close to a town, and gets very little sun, that 
to attempt Rose growing would only end in 
disappointment. Above everything else, 
Roses, to do well, must have a pure atmos¬ 
phere and open, sunny surroundings, and as 
these conditions do not, apparently, obtain 
with you, we do not recommend your going 
to any trouble or expense in this direction. 
As, however, you are evidently desirous of 


clothing your walls, we suggest that you try 
such well-known things as the old Virginian 
Creeper (Ampelopsis hederacea) and the self- 
clinging varieties as Veitchi, muralis, and pur¬ 
purea.. If you would have evergreen cover¬ 
ings, you cun scarcely have any better for a 
closed-in garden than Ivies, and you need 
not confine yourself to green-leaved varieties 
only, for there are some pretty blotched and 
gold and silver-leaved sorts, that give a town 
garden a bit of brightness. On bed No. 1 
you might try for growing up the wall Tro 
pteolum speciosum. We have seen this doing 
fairly well on north and east walls in a town, 
and some annuals like the old Tropieolum 
canariense (the Canary Creeper) and the 
bright-flowered Nasturtiums would, along 
with Ipomeeas, bloom. You will do better, 
however, we think, with foliage-covered walls, 
seeing that, as you say, you only get the sun 
until about noon. As regards plants for the 
beds, we should advise vour making the best 
use of herbaceous perennials, like Pyre- 
thrums and Campanulas, as well as Flag 
Irises and some of the dwarf Asters (Michael¬ 
mas Daisies). Probably, too, you would have 
a fair show of bloom from Canterbury Bells, 
the seed of which may be sown now for 
another year. Annuals, like Shirley Poppies, 
Candytuft, and Virginia Stock, on the 
sunniest part of the bed would, doubtless, 
give a fair show of bloom. On bed No. 2. 
which also is shaded for a part of the day, 
we would advise your trying a few half-hardy 
annuals like Stocks and Chrysanthemum 
segetum grandiflorum, the seed of which may 
be sown m the open ground, and Calliopsis 
and Tagetes, but we think more satisfaction 
will be obtained by growing hardy perennials. 
On those beds which you show as getting the 
most sun, we should also try Phloxes and some 
of the dwarf Sunflowers and Antirrhinums, all 
three often giving good results in a town 
garden. In the beds you purpose making 
where no sun reaches, we would advise your 
trying Plantain Lilies (Funkias). some of 
which are extremely pretty in foliage ; these 
are herbaceous and very hardy, and sour* 
Spine as, like Filipendula and Ulmaria, the 
commonest of all the Meadow Sweets, but still 
very pretty, which, along with Foxgloves, 
love both shade and moisture. Added to this 
there are the Sedums (Stonecrops). Sedum 
spectabile is a handsome glaucous plant, with 
rosv-pink blossoms, that may be grown sue 
eessfully in shade. Mention must also he 
made of the value of the early-flowering 
Chrysanthemums for a town garden ; these 
should, of course, be found a place in bed 
No. 1, where the most sun can reach them. Of 
course, the hardy perennials enumerated can¬ 
not now be planted before the autumn, but 
it is not- too late to sow annuals, and besides 
those mentioned two sweet-scented things like 
Mignonette and the Night-scented Stock 
(Mathiola bicornis) should be included.] 


Polyanthuses. —It was noticeable at the 
recent Auricula Show that no gold laced 
Polyanthuses were in evidence. These have 
so little of garden beauty about them, and 
the named varieties are so difficult to grow, 
that their disappearance can evoke no senti¬ 
ment. It is very different with the large- 
flowered border or fancy Polyanthuses, as 
these were seen in considerable numbers and 
in great variety of colouring. Classes for 
twelve plants in comparatively large pots, 
also for groups of them, and single plants, 
brought good competition. These are not 
house or frame, but genuine garden flowers. 
It is, if wanted for exhibition, as in this case, 
one of their special characteristics that the 
plants and flowers are never better or brighter 
ill colour than when lifted direct from the 
open ground into pots, and so exhibited. If 
kept under glass but two or three days, flowers 
get drawn out of character, colours are pale, 
leafage is unduly long, and harm rather than 
good results. Such plants as these, raised 
from seed sown in the spring, and grown on 
in good soil outdoors, 12 inches apart, be¬ 
come fine clumps by the following April, and 
can be obtained and grown by all having gar¬ 
dens. Just one thing is specially needful. 
Seed of a first-rate strain should be obtained. 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



May 25 , 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


167 


THE ROSY LOOSESTRIFE. 

Many pretty and graceful plants grow beside 
water, and some of them are, perhaps, at 
their best in the autumn, but of all the flowers 
of autumn we know for the water side, there 
is not one that compares with the rosy form 
of the common Loosestrife, which is pretty 
enough, but not so fine as the rosy form. 


pitious, the Tufted Pansies have been, in 
many instances, flowering with the greatest 
freedom. The plants that are now blooming 
so profusely are not young pieces put out 
into their flowering quarters earlier in the 
year, but old plants which were cut back last 
autumn. These old plants invariably do well 
when accorded the treatment just described. 



The rosy Loosestrife (Lythrum Salioaria var. roseum). 


This varies from seed, some beiug more in¬ 
tense ir colour. It also has the power of in¬ 
king itself and spreading along the 
banks, and even in the water itself. We put 
a lew plants into 15 inches of water, and 
they seemed to grow ns well as on the banks, 
giving a very charming effect. 

Tufted Pansies In ”iarcT 

Although the weather 


1 have always found that Tufted Pansies cut 
I back in the late summer or early autumn 
' quickly make beautiful tufts, and, given 
genial weather, bloom freely in April. There 
I is a tendency, too, with the newer forms of 
I the Tufted Pansies to come into flower rather 
earlier than was the case with these plants a 
few years ago. Among the more notable 
varieties deserving mention in this connec¬ 
tion arc the following : —Peace, white, tfiited 


heliotrope; Mrs. E. A. Cade, rich canary- 
yellow ; Bridal Morn, pale blue; Florizel, 
blush-lilac ; Woodcock, white, faintly edged 
lilac; Cream King, cream ; Sunshine, deep 
yellow ; Lark, white, edged and tinted helio¬ 
trope-blue ; and Cottage Maid, bluish-purple 
and white.—W. V. T. 

Plants for bog-garden -Will you please tell me 
in Gardening, which 1 take every week, what arc the 
best plants, both flowering and flne-follaged, to 
grow on rather boggy ground? The trees have been 
cut down and the ground drained, but it is still black 
and rather wet. I want it to look gay and tho 
ground well covered with flowers and greenery.— 
G. May. 

[iris Ksempferi, Trilliums, Cypripediums, 
Astilbes, Spiraea Aruncus, Calthas, Bocconia 
cordata, Lilium pardalinum, L. canadense, 
L. superbum, Lobelia fulgens, or any of its 
forms, Phloxes, Primula japonica, P. sikki- 
mensis, Saxifraga peltata, S. Hirculus, S. 
granulata fl. pi., Bamboos, with such Ferns 
as Osmunda rcgalis and Struthiopteris ger- 
nianiea, will do well. You will find a chap¬ 
ter devoted to this subject in “The English 
Flower Garden,” lists of suitable plants also 
being given.] 

Fuchsias for beds.— How few, compara¬ 
tively speaking, use Fuchsias in the flower 
garden. Presently, arrangements will be 
made for the summer display, and, wherever 
possible, some of these most useful blooming 
plants should be grown. They are, perhaps, 
most effective when grown in masses of one 
particular sort. Young plants struck this 
spring may be used, but it ought not to be 
overlooked that old plants that may have been 
in the same pots for years, possibly, and are 
almost regarded as being of no further use, 
may be turned carefully out of the pots and 
planted in the open border. I have found 
many a time that to treat old pot-bound 
plants in this way is to give them a new 
start, and it is surprising what a quantity of 
bloom is borne by old and almost worn-out 
plants when given outdoor treatment for a 
season. Some of the old sorts are yet hard 
to beat, particularly for beds and borders, 
and in this connection may be mentioned 
Arabella, Lord Beaeonsfield, Avalanche, and 
Rose of Castille.— Leahurst. 

Canterbury Bells.— Among biennials there 
are few that can be said to produce so showy 
blossoms at such little expense, as the 
Canterbury Bells. We may plant them 
freely, for several reasons, because they will 
grow* in nearly every garden; hundreds of 
plants may be raised from seed for a few 
pence ; plants may be grown from the date 
of sowing the seed to the time of flowering 
the following year, without the slightest pro¬ 
tection—unless, indeed, it be that it is l>est 
to winter them on the warmest side of the 
garden, if the winter is exceptionally hard. 
Sometimes it is found that the off-shoots from 
the old plants may be kept through the win¬ 
ter, but this is not always, and even then 
they cannot compare with seedlings. It is, 
therefore, best, all things considered, to sow 
each year in any open sunny border, pricking 
the seedlings oil as soon as they are lar^o 
enough, and finally planting them out in 
good soil, giving ample room bctw r ecn each 
plant. Sow now.— Townsman. 

Fancy Pansies in the south.— Except for 
the fancy Pansy seedlings that are so freely 
marketed in the south of England in the 
spring, little is seen of the fine flowers that 
give our northern gardeners so much pleasure 
in the early summer. The fancy Pansies that 
are sold in such immense numbers in Covent 
Garden Market in March, April, and May, 
are all of continental origin, and are of very 
mixed quality. Form and colour have both 
improved in recent years, and the fine blotch 
that every good fancy Pansy should possess is 
vastly superior in these French and German 
strains than was the case a few years ago. 
What these plants lack, however, is a good 
constitution. When the hot weather of late 
June and early July is with us, these conti¬ 
nental Pansies fail in large numbers. The 
true fancy Pansy of the north is a better 
plant in every way. Size, colour, and mark¬ 
ings are superb, and although tlic habit is 
coarse and the growth unduly vigorous in 
many instances, tne plants* will, in the south, 
stand the trying weather^of, our English sum¬ 
mer infinitely better than their continental 
rivals. D B. C, 










168 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


May 25, 1907 


GARDEN PESTS AND FRIENDS. 

TIIE CODLIN-MOTH. 

Can you tell me if I can do anything to protect an 
Apple-tree from the attack of the Ckxllin-moihY Last 
year it was* a perfect picture when in bloom, and hun¬ 
dreds of Apples set. but every Apple fell off when the 
size of a Nut, with the grub hole snowing. If the moth 
deposits the egg in the bottom of the blossom, would 
spraying (with anything you can suggest) just before the 
blossoms open be* of any service? I suppose it would 
not do to spray the open blossom '—Walter F. Dale. 

[This is a very small moth, but its caterpil¬ 
lars are. in most seasons, exceedingly destruc¬ 
tive to the Apple crop. They bore into the fruit 
and cause it either to drop prematurely or to 
decay rapidly when it is stored. Sometimes 
Apples attacked bv this insect drop off as 
early as the end of June, and continue to drop 
throughout the summer. Upon examining 
Apples that have dropped, or those that show 
signs of decay in the Apple-house or store, it 
will generally be seen that there is a dark 
spot at the blossom end of the Apple ; a small 
hole can also be detected here, round which 
there is a collection of excreta and minute 
morsels of Apple. If such Apples are split in 
half, a passage will be seen leading to the 
core, around which there is usually a mass of 
refuse (“ frass ”); and it will, as a rule, be 
discovered that the pips, or parts of them, 
have been eaten. If the caterpillar is still in 
the Apple, it will be found near the pips, 
which appear to be the objects of its attack. 
If the caterpillar has forsaken the Apple, a 
hole will be found on the side or some other 
part of the fruit, through which it has 
escaped. Though this is called the Codlin- 
nioth, it by no means confines its attacks to 
Codlins. but was probably thus named be¬ 
cause Codlins and some of their varieties, 
the Keswick Codlin, for instance, are some¬ 
what early, and, being large Apples, make a 
great show on the ground when they fall. 
Varieties of Apples having deep, open 
“ eyes/’ and large dried tufts of the calyces 
surrounding them, like the Codlin, the King 
Pippin, the Blenheim Orange, Margil, and 
Cox’s Orange Pippin, are more liable to be in¬ 
fested than varieties like the Golden Knob. 
Russet, Nonpareil, and others, the “eyes” 
of which are more closed up. This insect also 
attacks Pears, sometimes rather severely. 
This attack is not always recognised as being 
due to insect agency. It frequently happens 
that an unusual fall of Apples is said to be 
the “ summer drop,” attributable to want of 
vigour in the tree, or to the weather. No 
trouble is taken to examine the dropped fruit, 
and the caterpillars escape from it in due time 
and conceal themselves, in order to pupate 
and produce moths for another attack. When 
infested fruit is taken into store-rooms, the 
caterpillars creep out and get. into chinks and 
crannies in the walls and floors, from which 
the moths come forth and fly to the nearest 
Apple-trees in the following spring. The Cod- 
lin-moth is very troublesome in France, 
Germany, America, Canada, Australia, and 
Tasmania. In the last-named country it is so 
destructive that the Legislature has passed an 
Act for its repression. 

Description and life-history. —The 
moth is not quite three-fourths of an inch 
across the wings, and is about the third of an 
inch in length of body. The fore wings are 
deep grey, with many wavy lines of a brown 
hue. At their extremities there arc oval 
patches of a deep golden colour, by which 
this moth can be easily identified. Its hinder 
wings are darker, having a golden tinge, and 
a lustrous shimmer. When the moth is at 
rest during the day, it is an insignificant ob¬ 
ject, sitting on the trunks and branches of 
Apple-treos, or on railings, fences, and 
hedges, with its wings folded in the form of a 
roof over its body, it appears about the end 
of May, and flies from place to place and 
from tree to tree in the twilight and at the 
dawn of day, placing its eggs singly upon 
Apples when they are about half an inch in 
diameter. The moth lays from 50 to 100 eggs. 
The egg is white, more like a scale than an 
egg, and about the size of a small pin’s head. 
After a period of from seven to nine days, a 
tiny caterpillar creeps out and bores into the 
Apple. It is at fir^g^evish whiL-ln^colour, 
with a black head.^thiylV in (o) J’Jaw feet, 


four pairs of sucker feet in the middle of the 
body, and a pair at the end. When full grown 
it is nearly three-quarters of an inch long, 
the head being brown and the body light pink. 
The caterpillar enters the Apple at the 
“ eye” or calyx, follows the core down to the 
pips, upon which it feeds, pushing back in its 
progress morsels of core, pulp, and excrement 
to the outside of the hole. Occasionally it 
enters at other parts of the Apple and bores 
to the pips. From three weeks to a month is 
about the average duration of the active larval 
stage. After the caterpillar is full grown, 
and has eaten the greater part of the pips and 
flesh round the eore, it bores a hole from the 
centre to the rind of the Apple, through which 
it makes ite exit. If the Apple is on the 
ground, the caterpillar hides itself under¬ 
neath any rubbish, or crawls away to a neigh¬ 
bouring stem. Should the Apple be still 
upon the tree, the caterpillar crawls down the 
branches and stem, or lowers itself to the 
ground by a 6ilken thread. Large numbers 
of caterpillars pass the winter on the stems, 
where they construct nests with little bits of 
bark knit together with silk, or composed of 
silk alone ; they simply get into a convenient 
crack or crevice in the- bark, and surround 
themselves with a silk case, gummed over 
with a sticky fluid. Sometimes the larvte 
conceal themselves in cracks in posts and 
fences, or under the hark of trees, and even 
under rubbish and dead leaves and pieces of 
branches and twigs near the trees. When the 
caterpillar is taken in the Apples into the 
Apple store, or Apple house, it comes from 
them in due time, and hides underneath any 
woodwork, or in cracks in the walls or floor. 
The caterpillar does not usually pupate until 
the first approach of spring, when it becomes 
a brown chrysalis. There is normally only 
one brood in a season, but in some cases there 
are two. 

Methods of prevention and remedies. 
—In order to induce the caterpillars that are 
crawling up or down the Apple-trees to con¬ 
gregate at certain points, bands made of old 
oil-cake bags, well-washed manure bags, or 
hay ropes, should be tied tightly round the 
stems close to the ground early in July. To 
make these fit closely to the trees, and also to 
remove the temptation for the caterpillar to 
conceal itself before it reaches the hand, all 
rough bark must he scraped off by means of a 
suitable implement. This banding is prac¬ 
tised to a largo extent in America, Canada, 
and Tasmania; It is made compulsory by 
law in the last-named country, as well as in 
California, that Apple-trees should he banded 
in this way in early summer. These traps 
must be examined at frequent intervals ii\ 
summer and autumn, and the caterpillars in 
the folds of the bands destroyed. “ Wind¬ 
falls” or “ drops” must be cleared away as 
soon as possible, and should be disposed of at 
once: if not fit for/sale, they should be given 
to the pigs. In orchards, sheep, pigs, and 
poultry are useful, as they generally eat the 
“ drops” and maggots as fast as they fall. 
Where cider is made, the ground where 
Apples have loin in heaps should be well gas- 
limed and dug deeply, and all rubbish near 
burned. The walls of Apple-rooms and stores 
where the Apples have appeared to be in¬ 
fested should he well swept and lime-washed 
in early spring. The floors, also, and shelves 
should ho well scrubbed with soft soap, and 
fine netting fixed over windows and venti¬ 
lators to prevent the moths from escaping. 
Spraying the trees with caustic alkali wash in 
winter does much good, by removing the 
rough hark, etc., beneath which the larvae 
are hibernating. The trees should be sprayed 
directly the blossom has fallen, and the 
Apples are formed, with Paris green, mixed 
at the rate of 1 lb. to 200 gallons of soft water, 
with 3 lb. of fresh lime added to the wash. 
The Paris green solution kills many of the 
caterpillars feeding on the surface before they 
bore the fruit. The trees should be sprayed 
not- later than ten days after the blossom has 
fallen. This is because the calyx or eve re¬ 
mains open for that time and the fruitlets 
are upright in position ; the arsenic thus 
lodges in the eye, and when the calyx closes 
over it it keeps the poison in position. 
Spraying after the eye is closed is of very 


doubtful benefit. The blue and other tits, a« 
also poultry, do much good in orchards by de¬ 
vouring the larva;. All rubbish and dead 
wood (should be cleared away from Apple- 
trees. It is most desirable that all barrels 
that have brought Apples from abroad should 
be burned, especially those consigned to 
country towns, as many of these have cater¬ 
pillars or pupae in their cracks, which pro¬ 
duce moths. This would help to prevent the 
constant fresh importations of this pest into 
the country .—Leaflet No. 30 Hoard of Agri¬ 
culture and Fisheries.'] 


NOTES AND HEPL1ES. 

Pear-leaf blister.— Enclosed please find leaves of 
l’ear-trce, and through the medium of your valuable 
paper kindly say what is the matter with them, as I 
am afraid of the disease spreading to other trees? 
I am afraid it is too late to do anything to this 
tree, as it is badly infested. What can 1 do to pre¬ 
vent its attacking other trees?— Ajax. 

[The leaves you send have been attacked by 
the Pear-leaf blister mite (Phytopus pyri). 
As soon as this attack is noticed in the spring 
the infested leaves should be picked off and 
the rest sprayed with some insecticide, as 
paraffin emulsion. Be sure that the insecti¬ 
cide is applied to the undersides of the leaves. 
It would, we think, be advisable when the 
leaves are all off in the autumn, to spray the 
tree with the caustic alkali solution so often 
referred to in these pages.] 


FRUIT. 

MILDEW ON VINES. 

Vines, as a rule, are attacked with mildew 
just before the berries commence to stone, 
and although it is a disagreeable pest with 
which to deal, no one need feel much alarmed 
at its appearance, provided suitable remedies 
are applied as soon as it shows itself. Any 
serious mischief can be prevented by a judi¬ 
cious application of sulphur from a proper 
dredger or through a piece of muslin to every 
berry on the bunches and to every leaf and 
leaf-stem. Indeed, unless the sulphur is 
used freely in the case of a bad attack, very 
little good will be effected. Not only should 
the Vines be covered with the sulphur, but 
also every available space on the stages or 
shelves, especially where the sun can reach 
it, for then the fumes which arise from it 
are very destructive to the germs of the 
mildew. In the case of a bad attack the sul¬ 
phur should remain on the leaves for ten or 
twelve days, but where it is not serious a 
week will generally suffice to destroy the 
fungus. In every case the sulphur should be 
washed off before the berries begin to colour, 
and the best way by which to get it off is by 
syringing with clean water. We have never 
known a thorough application of sulphur to 
fail, but should there be a few spots left 
after the sulphur has been washed off a 
second application must be given. There 
are some vineries in which mildew is of 
periodical occurrence owing to the low’ situa¬ 
tion of the garden greatly favouring its de¬ 
velopment, and therefore more difficult to 
deal with. In order to prevent its spread¬ 
ing, it is a good plan to light the fire so as 
to warm the pipes in dull weather, and at 
night to allow a circulation of air without 
lowering the temperature more than is neces¬ 
sary ; at the same time the internal air should 
be kept as dry as possible; in damp weather 
not a drop of water should be spilt on the 
floor or stages, and air must bo left on both 
at top and bottom night and day. Not much 
will be needed at night, especially in damp 
weather, but a constant movement of the 
atmosphere is desirable, and which can only 
be obtained by means of judicious ventila¬ 
tion. In bright weather there will, of course, 
be the usual rise, but to get rid of mildew 
quickly it will never do to keep the house 
closed for the purpose of keeping up the tem¬ 
perature. A close atmosphere favours the 
spread of mildew. The roots should also re¬ 
ceive attention, as a dry border favours the 
spread of mildew as much as anything. If 
the roots are suffering from want of moisture, 
the Vines are less capable of resisting any 
unfavourable influences than if in perfect 
health. PainHng the hot-water-pipes with 
sulphur for the purpose of diffusing its fumes 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




Mav 25, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


169 


throughout, the house is somotimes recom¬ 
mended ; but the plan is hardly safe in the 
hands of inexperienced people. If the pipes 
should get over-heated, the berries not un- 
frequently become rusted when very young, 
but after stoning the skin gets harder, and 
they then escape injury. T. 


Xanthorhiza was introduced as long ago as 
1776. It is the only member of the genus. A 
spot where it is not too much dried up during 
the summer suits it well. The flowering 
period is usually in April.—X. 


AUCUBA JAPONICA. 


forme, one usually known as vera naua being 
of a particularly neat, compact habit of 
growth. The roots of the Aucuba are vigor¬ 
ous, and when shifted soon take possession of 
the new soil. It matters little at what season 
these bushes are transplanted, as I have seen 
them moved at midsummer and in August 
without any injury. The only evergreen 
shrub to compete with the Aucuba in London 
gardens is Euonymus japonicus, but one de¬ 
cided drawback to this is its liability during 
the summer to become infested with cater¬ 
pillars. Both the typical green-leaved kind 
and its variegated varieties may be shifted at 
any time as readily as the Aucuba. X. 


NOTES AND HE PLIES. 

Sparrows destroying Wistaria. — May I ask 

your advice and that of the readers of your paper— 
what can be done to prevent the sparrows utterly 
singling the bloom of the Wistaria, by picking the 
buds off or stripping them? My Wistaria had a 
splendid promise of bloom this year and last, but 
has been entirely spoilt by the sparrows. It is a 
large tree, covering two walls of the house, quite im¬ 
possible to net. —It. J. G. 

Rhododendron Rhodora.— Long grown in 
gardens ns Rhodora canadensis, this is now 
classed with the Rhododendrons that is to 
say, with the deciduous members thereof for¬ 
merly known as Azaleas. It is a native of a 
considerable tract of country in North 
America, and was introduced as long ago as 
1767. In moderately moist soil, containing a 
liberal amount of vegetable matter, such as 
most Rhododendrons delight in, this forms 
a much-branched and rather erect shrub 
about a yard high, that flowers just before 
the expansion of the leaves. It often blooms 
in April, but this year May was at least a 
week old before it was seen at its best. The 
flowers are of a pale purple colour, and the 
narrow segments give to them a somewhat 
starry appearance. Each cluster, however, 
bears many flowers, so that a specimen, when 
at its best, is, as regards the upper part, 
quite a mass of blossoms.—X. 

The advantage of Ivy-covered walls. - 

There is not the slightest doubt that a house 
covered with Ivies is much drier than that 
without a leafy covering, and, what is equally 
true, it is much more attractive if trouble 
is taken to select pretty varieties. We may 
not be—to use a common phrase—“gone 
on” Ivies, particularly so in the summer, 
when flowering creepers show their beauty, 
but in the winter, when, as recently, after 
hard spells of frost, there is little greenery 
left, then we are conscious there is a beauty 
about the Ivy which, perhaps, we could not 
appreciate very much in the long summer 
days. Many of our walls are clothed with 
plants that are only with us when the 
weather is bright and genial, and so it comes 
about that when winter conies with short 
days we have many bare spots, and our walls, 
instead of presenting an attractive appear¬ 
ance “in their nakedness, they mock us.” 
This need not be if we only recognise that we 
have a true and constant friend in the Ivy. 
Let me suggest a few varieties, some of which 
I grow, and would have more if room per¬ 
mitted. Somehow, many of us have a pre¬ 
conceived notion that Ivies are dull and un¬ 
interesting. but this is not so, for when it is 
remembered that amongst them we have 
white and golden-edged, green and yellow- 
blotched sorts, small, diminutive-leaved 
varieties with brown and bronzy tints, large, 
leathery leaves, that make a thick covering 
either for walls or fences, it must be ad¬ 
mitted that they are of great use and beauty 
in a garden; moreover, they are well adapted 
to a town, and to the suburbs, where somo¬ 
times other creepers do not last long, and if 
they are only trimmed in March, one may 
have walls that present a fresh appearance. 
It is owing largely to the neglect of clipping 
Ivies annually that, some houses where they 
are grown look dingy and sombre.— Wood- 

BAST WICK. 


Index to Volume XXVIII.—The binding covers 
(price Is. 6d. each, post free, Is. 9d.) and Index (3d., 
post free, 3Jd.) for Volume! XXVIII. are now ready, 
and may be had of all newsagents, or of the Pub¬ 
lisher, post free, 2e for the two, 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 

CUE SNOW BERRY (SYMPHORICARPUS 
RACEMOSUS). 

The common Snowbcrry (S. racemosus) is a 
familiar shrub in most gardens, and, when 
covered with a profuse crop of snow-white 
berries, about the size of large Peas, a,s so 
well shown in our illustration to-day, lias a 
fine effect. It is not, however, a select shrub, 
and we would exclude it from a choice collec¬ 
tion. The other species, S. orbiculatus (syn. 
S. vulgaris, the Coral Berry, or Indian 
Currant, and the Wolf Berry (S. occidentals) 


This is decidedly the best of all evergreen 
shrubs for smoky towns, and in some parts of 
London, where few plants will grow, it will 
not only hold its own, but maintain a fairly 
presentable appearance. 1 have had half-a- 
dozen fair-sized bushes from 4 feet to 5 feet 
in height under my notice for the last three 
years, and I venture to say no other evergreen 
shrub would have proved so satisfactory. 
They arc growing in the border of a small 
garden, surrounded by walls, so that they get 
very little direct sunshine, and none too much 
light, yhe ordinary spotted-leaved form has 
a particularly bright appearance when the 
foliage is quite clean. Another advantage 
| possessed by the Aucuba is that the leaves are 



The Snow berry' (Syinphoriearpus racemosus). From a photograph by Mr. C'has. Jones. 


arc of similar merit. Their chief value is for 
undergrowth in woods or ornamental covert 
in pleasure grounds, as their flowers are not 
showy, their growth is not neat, and 
they smother other things. There is a variety 
of S. orbiculatus with the foliage variegated 
green and yellow. T. 


The Yellow Root (Xanthorhiza apiifolia). - 
This is not a showy but a decidedly curious 
and pretty little shrub, which rarely exceeds 
a couple of feet in height. It forms, notwith¬ 
standing, a spreading mars, whose branches 
are clothed with bright green pinnate leaves, 
whose lobes are again deeply cut. The 
flowers, borne in loose terminal panicles, are 
small, star-shaped, dull purple in colour, and 
remain fresh a considerable time. Botani- 
cally it belongs to the Ranunculus family, 
though in general appearance very widely re¬ 
moved from many of its relatives. The popu¬ 
lar name of Yellow Root is derived from the 
yellow' colour of the roots and stems, and a 
dye is said to be prepared from them. A 
native of the Southern UiTked this 



very little seared by cold winds. Well-fur¬ 
nished plants, too, can be purchased at a 
cheap rate, and cuttings put in in September, 
and covered with a hand-light, are not at all 
difficult to rcot. 

Regarded from a berry-bearing point of 
view’, the Aucuba also merits recognition, for 
the fruits are extremely bright and effective. 
Nearly all those ill common cultivation con¬ 
sist of the female form, which was introduced 
from Japan as long ago as 1783, whereas the 
male kind only made its appearance in this 
country a little over forty years ago. How 
handsome well-fruited plants are may be 
often seen at the winter meetings of the Royal 
Horticultural Society, but these are usually 
grown in pots. When grown in the open 
ground the berries add a good deal to the 
beauty of the plant. It is, of course, neces¬ 
sary to have a male plant in order to furnish 
the* pollen, and to ensure fertilisation the 
pollen may be applied artificially with a 
camel-hair brush. Those to whom the varie¬ 
gated character of the foliage does not appeal 
have the choice of tw’o or three green-leaved 



170 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


May 25, 1907 


GARDEN WORK. 

Conservatory. —Make as many changes as 
possible. A re-arrangement which involves 
a change of position, varying the outline and 
character of the groups, is calculated to give 
pleasure to both the gardener and those for 
whom he caters. I have often felt better 
satisfied with myself after an hour or two 
engaged in this work early in the morning, 
whilst there was no obstruction to one’s move¬ 
ments. To keep the conservatory in the best 
possible condition, all flowering plants which 
have ceased to be effective should be moved 
to another house set apart for them, where 
all faded flowers and seed pods can be 
removed, and the plants can be regularly 
syringed and cleaned. This is a good time 
to repot Azaleas and other hard-wooded 
plants which require a shift. I have before 
adverted to the importance of clean pots and 
perfect drainage, especially for all hard- 
wooded plants ; and the potting-stick must be 
used freely, to make everything firm. No one 
can grow- Heaths, Azaleas, or Epacrises with¬ 
out good fibrous peat and clean, sharp silver 
sand. Those who have a cool conservatory to 
furnish may make a bed or border of 
good peat and turf at the cool end—if there 
is a cool, shady end—and plant the red and 
white Lapageria. They mav not make much 
show at first, but, if vigorous, healthy plants 
are set out, they will, in due course, make 
their way up into the roof and flower abun¬ 
dantly. Thu 9 inches of drainage should be 
placed in the bottom, and on this 2 feet of 
good compost, chiefly fibrous peat and turf. 
There is an advantage in mixing with the 
]>eat a few bits of sandstone—this absorbs the 
moisture when water is given, and gives it 
off again as the soil dries. I look upon it as 
an evil to be watering any plant, too often, 
and anything which increases the holding 
capacity of the soil is, I think, an advantage. 
A little night air will be beneficial now. 
When the weather is calm and mild, a little 
stopping or pinching may be given to young 
Fuchsias, to indues a bushy habit. Do not 
overpot, as this causes coarse growth, and 
the plant looses its symmetry. If you wish 
to grow large specimen Fuchsias, move to a 
larger pot as soon as the rootsS break through 
and coil round the sides. It is not of much 
use potting a Fuchsia after the roots are 
matted together. 

Stove.— Tr ain Allamundas and other stove 
climbers up near the glass, so that the ends 
of the shoots may rijicn and produce flowers. 
Fine leaved plants which require more pot 
room may have a shift now. Vincas make 
handsome specimens when well grown. These 
used to be favourite exhibition plants at the 
summer shows. When the pots are well 
filled with roots liquid-manure may be given 
freely. Young growing plants of Ixoras may 
have a shift, now, if required. Keep them in 
a light position to ripen the growth. We 
cannot do without fire-heat in the stove ; 
even the cool stove will require warmth till 
the middle of June. Shade will be required 
now for many things, but. Crotons and 
Dracaenas want light to colour well. Do not 
use hard water for syringing. Unless the 
water is quite pure, supply the necessary 
atmospheric moisture by damping floors 
several times a day. In the matter of venti¬ 
lation study the weather; when warm and 
mild ventilate freely, without much reference 
to the working of the thermometer. Fill 
baskets with Ferns and other hanging plants. 
Russellia juncea, Torenia asiatica, and Cissus 
discolor are good basket plants. The last- 
named may be used for covering baskets 
filled with Begonias or other flowering plants. 
Pot off Begonia Gloire de Lorraine and grow 
on freely in heat, for the present. Bou- 
vardias in a young state should be stopped 
freely to induce a bushy habit. When well 
established, these may be moved to a pit or 
low house for the summer. 

Ripening Crapes and Peaches should 
have abundance of fresh air at every favour¬ 
able opportunity, a little being left on at 
night. Mulch the inside borders with long, 
clean litter, to check evaporation and keep 
down dust. Look over Peaches twice a 
day when ripening, a*ntrom>ed Peacles arc of 
no ufse, except for^cojl^j^ C0!fiJ cts in 


if the fruits are only slightly bruised by fall¬ 
ing. For the same reason only experienced 
persons should be permitted to gather, pack, 
or handle Peaches in any way. If intended 
for travelling, Peaches should be gathered a 
little before they are ripe, wrapped in tissue 
paper, and surrounded with paper shav¬ 
ings or wood-wool. Paper shavings are best. 
These can be obtained from the horticultural 
sundriesmen at a low price. Ripe Grapes are 
usually packed in handle baskets in *such a 
manner as to remain firm, as the bloom is 
easily rubbed off if the bunches move. Every¬ 
thing in the fruit way should be packed when 
quite dry. 

Cucumbers in frames.— Continual pinch¬ 
ing is necessary to prevent overcrowding. 
With the same object in view a few of the 
oldest leaves may, when necessary, be re¬ 
moved. If exhibition fruits are required, 
place the best shaped fruits in glasses. Stop 
all young shoots one leaf beyond the fruit. 
Top-dress with a little good compost as often 
ns the roots work through ; shade as little as 
possible. Give liquid-manure once a week, j 
though as regards this one must be guided by I 
the conditio!i of the bed. Do not. permit de¬ 
formed fruits to remain on the plants, for 
though there may be a sale for such they do 
not pay so well as good ones, and they take 
quite as much out of the plants. Expose the 
water to the sun several hours before using 
it. Give a little air at the back of the frame 
early in the morning, increasing it as the 
day advances. Sprinkle and close early in 
the afternoon, or about 3.30 p.m. Use warm 
coverings at night. Cut all fruits when large 
enough for use, unless seeds are required. 

Orchard-house.— If the house is much 
crowded with potted trees, a re-arrangement 
may be made now that will relieve the pres 
sure. Some of the Plums may be plunged 
outside when the weather is quite settled. If 
Cherries are grown they must have free venti¬ 
lation ; in fact, the whole of the house must 
have free ventilation in fine weather, with a 
little air left on at night. The usual course 
is to close and syringe about 4 o’clock in the 
afternoon, and then open the top ventilators 
a little about 7 or 8 o’clock in the evening. 
The sunshine and moisture shut up in the 
house for three or four hours in the after¬ 
noon add to the size of the fruits, and pre¬ 
vent the red-spider getting a footing in the 
houses. The trees in pots will use up a good 
deal of nourishment now, which may be 
given either in the form of a mulch, or in 
liquid form, or both. 

Fig-house.- Figs arc often grown in pots 
in vineries or other houses, but it is best when 
a house can be given up to them. An old 
Fig-tree in good condition in a roomy house 
trained on a trellis 18 inches or so from the 
glass, will pay as well as anything, as early 
Figs, if gathered a little before they are ripe, 
travel well. Figs want a good deal of 
nourishment when the roots arc under 
control. 

Flowering plants in the house. -Fuchsias 
are not generally satisfactory, and show Pelar¬ 
goniums are sometimes troubled with green¬ 
fly. Hydrangeas do well and are lasting. 
Trumpet Lilies are nice. Musk is nice in the 
cottage window, and the foliage of the Myrtle 
is fragrant, and if the wood has been well 
ripened there will be flowers by and bye. 
One of the most interesting plants I have in 
my room now is a Streptocarpus in a 5-inch 
pot with many flowers upon it, which last 
well. Tuberous Begonias are coming into 
bloom, and a standard trained plant of 
Brovvallia Jamesoni is interesting. Mignon¬ 
ette is always appreciated. 

Outdoor garden.— It is too soon yet to be¬ 
gin the general bedding out, but such hardy 
things as scarlet Lobelias, Calceolarias. 
Pentstemons, Antirrhinums. Stocks, and 
Asters which have been properly hardened 
off may be planted, and they will be much 
better in the beds and borders than starving 
in boxes. Yellow, white, and crimson An¬ 
tirrhinums. if properly selected, make nice 
beds, and if the seeds are removed they will 
continue in flower till late in the autumn. A 
good strain will come true from seeds, but 
those who are very particular may strike 
them from cuttings in a cold-frame, but there 


is more vigour about seedlings. It is 
important that everything should be well 
hardened before planting out. The lights 
may be taken off during the day, 
but it is hardly safe to leave them off at 
present, sis the weather is uncertain. I have 
just had a sample box of Poppy Anemones 
from Miss M. Williams, Westmeath, exceed¬ 
ingly fine and bright in colour. Dry bulbs in 
August are cheap, and they may be planted 
in succession till February. They are also 
easily raised from seeds. The books tell us 
the Narcissi family should be planted in 
autumn, but in looking through our store¬ 
room about the end of last February a bag of 
500 Barri conspicuus and about the same 
number of ornatus which had been overlooked 
were found. They were planted in good 
soil, and are now in flower, and I have never 
had finer or better blooms, and they are most 
useful for cutting. What a pretty edging 
plant the double Arabia makes ! 

Fruit garden.- If not already done, re¬ 
move the covers from Peach-trees. If the 
borders are raised and likely to be very dry, 
a mulch of half-decayed manure will help 
them. In the old days, fifty years ago, the 
Peach borders were not generally cropped, 
except it might be just along the front, and 
the trees had the border for at least 5 feet 
or 6 feet from the wall to themselves, and 
there was a chance then of doing justice to 
them, but in this utilitarian age the borders 
are sometimes cropped up to the wall. The 
same course is adopted sometimes with Apples 
and Pears grafted on dwarf stocks, and it 
does not give the trees a chance. If an 
Apple-tree is grafted on the Paradise, or 
Pear on the Quince, a space should be left 
uncropped for a yard round the stems. If a 
light stirring with the fork now, followed by 
a mulch of manure 3 inches or so thick is 
given, the trees will be comfortable for the 
summer; and if they have n crop of fruit the 
latter will be fine and of good colour. The 
Gooseberry caterpillar will soon make its 
appearance if it is in the neighbourhood. 
Dusting with Hellebore powder will settle the 
insects, but it should not be forgotten Helle¬ 
bore is poisonous, though I have never heard 
of anyone suffering from its use on Goose¬ 
berry bushes. As I have stated more than 
once. Tobacco-powder is the best remedy for 
green-fly on Peaches at the beginning. A 
wash may be used later. 

Vegetable garden. As soon ns there is a 
bit of ground clear, plant a few rows of 
Brussels Sprouts. We used to sow in autumn 
to get a few plants for the early crop, but 
a sowing under glass in February answers the 
same purpose. Of course, a further sowing is 
made outside in March. As long as we can 
gather Peas we do not want Brussels Sprouts, 
but when the Peas are over a dish of Brussels 
comes in useful for a change. Sow more 
Cauliflower for late summer and autumn use. 
In very hot summers Cauliflowers do well on 
north borders, and they may be planted in 
trenches. Sometimes the seeds are sown 
thinly in prepared trenches and the plants 
thinned a little, but quite a number is left 
sometimes to grow on. They do not make 
very large hearts, but they are very white 
and close, and keep well. Very large Cauli¬ 
flowers are not wanted in hot weather. Con¬ 
tinue to prepare Celery trenches. Do not use 
rank manure, and mix well with the soil. Stir 
the soil freely among Onions, Carrots, etc., 
and thin the young plants when large enough 
to handle. The first thinning of Carrots and 
Parsnips is usually done with the hoe, so as 
to leave the plants in little tufts, that will be 
afterwards singled out. Thin Parsley. The 
thinnings may be transplanted 6 inches 
apart. Parsley makes a neat edging plant, 
and is always convenient for gathering. If 
there are any weak planks in the rows of 
Beet, they may be filled up by transplanting 
from the thicker spots. Beet may be left 
9 inches apart. E. Hobday. 

THE COMING WEEK'S WORK. 

Extracts from a Garden Diary. 

May 27th.- We are busy now planting 
flower-beds, as we have a good deal to do, 
and are putting out the hardiest things first. 
We have a good stock of the double blue 





May 25, 1907 


GARDENING ILL USTRJTED. 


171 


we find many people cling to the single- 
flowered variety. There is often a prejudice 
against double flowers. Stocks, Asters, and 
Phlox Drummondi are going in well, as the 
ground is moist. Tender things, as Mari¬ 
golds, Zinnias, and Salipiglossis, will be left 
a few days. We find a bed of late-sown 
Asters very useful for filling blanks in borders 
late in summer. 

May 23th .—Planted out a few rows of 
Brussels Sprouts and late Cauliflowers; 
sowed seeds of Wnlcheron and other Cauli¬ 
flowers to come in in autumn. Lettuces are 
sown in small quantities often. They will be 
sown thinly and thinned to 12 inches, the 
thinnings only to be transplanted. A mulch 
of manure will he placed between the rows. 
Weeds are giving trouble, and are being 
dealt with as promptly as possible. The 
lawns are mown weekly now, and edgings fre¬ 
quently trimmed. 

May 29th .—Planted another frame with 
Melons. They must have bottom-heat, and, 
having a heap of leaves that was carted in 
during winter, we are mixing these with the 
stable manure to steady and prolong the 
heat of the bed. Cucumbers in houses are 
frequently lightly top dressed with good loam 
mixed with a little fertiliser. Tomatoes are 
being finally hardened otT for planting out¬ 
side. A few have been planted on the south 
sid3 of a wooden fence and between fruit- 
trees on south wall. 

May 30th .—Put in cuttings of Hydrangeas, 
pink and white. They strike freely in boxes 
in the shade, kept close. Any of the non¬ 
flowering shoots may be used for cuttings. 
Coverings have been removed from Peach 
and other walls, dried, and stored. A little 
more thinning has been given to young 
growths. The fruits of both Apricots and 
Peaches have been reduced in numbers, but 
not finally thinned. The trees bearing heavy 
crops have been mulched. 

May Sfsl .—Planted out more Tomatoes. 
These are in a sunny position, and will be 
trained to stakes. Planted out some of the 
early forced Strawberries to obtain an 
autumn crop. All Strawberries outside have 
been mulched with stable litter. Earthed up 
early Potatoes on south border, finally. 
Shifted on young Coleuses; sowed Cinerarias 
and Calceolarias. Pricked off seedling 
Chinese Primulas. Mulched double white 
Primulas with fibrous peat, chopped Moss, 
and sand. This generally induces roots to 
work into it, and the result is good plants. 

June 1st .—All Begonias and other tender 
subjects are now hardening off in cold frames. 
The beds of spring flowers are now being 
cleared, and when the Begonias, etc., are 
hardened the beds will be planted. All cool 
houses not otherwise occupied have been 
filled with Tomatoes. One or two houses 
will be limewashed outside and filled with 
young Ferns and other fine-foliaged plants, 
for which they arc well adapted. Re¬ 
arranged conservatory, adding more plants 
in flower. Liquid-manure is used freely now 
in a weak state. 


LAW AND CUSTOM. 

Gardener dismissed without notice <//. B.). 
—The circumstances you narrate do not appear to 
me to have constituted sufficient to justify your em¬ 
ployer in dismissing you after that fashion. You 
were entitled to a month’s notice, unless you had 
specifically agreed with your employer that the on 
jugement between you was terminable by less notice. 
I fear, however, that by asking for and accepting 
your wages up to the Saturday you placed yourself 
in a wrong position, and I do not see bow- you can 
now make any further claim. I confess 1 do not 
understand what your employer meant by telling you 
to “ go borne and stop until he sent for you ” ; but 
you seem to have accepted that as a dismissal.— 
BARRls'TKR. 

Contribution to Journal (Miss P.).~ Many 
literary connoisseurs regard every duckling 
they hatch out on paper as a cygnet. I hope 
vou do not. I will charitably assume that 
y 0U ar <» correct in your estimate of the worth 
of your own production—but then, you see, it 
was ‘•humorous, and not practical.’’ Now, 
above all things, artiedes sent to horticultural 
papers should be serious and practical. Had 
vou sent it to Punch its worth would, no 
doubt have been estimated from the point of 
view of its value to the publishers of that 
journal ; but as you sennit to a serimisly- 

Digitizedby kjO 1 )QLC 


minded editor he estimated its value from his 
own standpoint. I do not for one moment 
suppose you are free to “sell it to the editor 
of another paper”—even if any other editor 
would buy it. Look at the matter in a prac¬ 
tical way. Suppose it had been a basket of 
Strawberries, and not a humorous article 
that you had offered for sale nt a price left 
apparently to the discretion of the consumer. 
Could you soil the Strawberries again if. after 
consuming them, the purchaser had said that 
upon recognising their effect he could only 
pay a low price? So with your jokes. Hav¬ 
ing been consumed by one newspaper—with 
effects that seem to have been dubious- they 
can hardly be now transferred to another. 
Besides, that would be stealing—a serious 
joke, indeed.— Barrister. 


POULTRY. 

THE EARLY DUCKLING INDUSTRY. 
With the close of the game season poultry- 
raisers begin to find an appreciably better 
market for their birds, and, in the case of 
producers of early ducklings, very remunera¬ 
tive prices are now to be obtained. Though 
the duckling industry is no longer confined 
to the Vale of Aylesbuiy and its immediate 
neighbourhood, yet the methods pursued 
there still give the best results, as, starting 
with birds of the right sort, the men of 
Buckinghamshire and Bedfordshire have per¬ 
fected a system of rearing and fattening 
which is excellent in every way. A brief de¬ 
scription of these birds, and the manner of 
their preparation, will, doubtless, interest 
readers, who may dismiss from their minds 
as unfounded the assertion so often made 
that there is something peculiar to the 
locality of these two counties which gives the 
“Aylesbury” duckling its pre-eminence. 
Some of the finest birds arc now produced in 
Oxfordshire, Lancashire, Norfolk, SufFolk, 
Lincolnshire, Cambridgeshire, etc., while it 
will be remembered by many people that a 
Sussex fattener secured highest honours for 
dressed ducks at the last Dairy Show*. But 
the two counties of Buckingham and 
Bedford still produce the great bulk of 
the early ducklings, and their methods may, 
therefore, he followed with advantage by 
thos3 who desire to share in the high prices 
obtainable in the spring. The Aylesbury 
duck, as found in the Vale and neighbour¬ 
hood, is of very ancient strain, but some 
time ago it was crossed with Pekin blood in 
order to improve the stamina of the breed, 
which began to show signs of exhaustion. It 
is a pure white bird, with flesh-coloured 
bill and orange feet, and carries a large 
amount of breast meat, very tender, and of 
excellent quality, hut slightly deficient in 
flavour as compared with that of the slower 
maturing breeds. It is fairly hardy and ex¬ 
tremely precocious, os many of the fattened 
ducklings scale upwards of 5 lb. eight weeks 
from the date of hatching. 

Few of the duck-raisers keep stock ducks, 
preferring to buy the eggs from neighboming 
farmers who maintain flocks especially for 
the purpose. The eggs when received are set 
under hens (usually of the Brahma type), 
and on hatching the progeny of several hens 
is often placed under the care of one, as 
ducklings require very little brooding. They 
are fed for the first few days on hard-boiled 
eggs, rice, and bread, after which barley- 
meal, mixed with tallow-scrap, grains, and 
toppings are chiefly used. Green food, grit, 
and drinking water must be plentifully sup¬ 
plied. The object for the first four or five 
weeks’ feeding is to build up a frame upon 
which the flesh can ho rapidly laid during the 
last three or four weeks. During the period 
of growth the birds are kept in batches, ac¬ 
cording to age and size, and are allowed a 
moderate amount of exercise, though, as a 
rule, no swimming water. When the final 
process of fattening is reached, they are alto¬ 
gether confined, and are only driven out for 
purposes of feeding; the remainder of the 
time is spent in sheds well littered with 
straw, kept clean and dry, and great care is 
taken not to disturb the birds between meals. 
The food given during this latter stage for 
the best class of ducklings is composed en¬ 


tirely of boiled rice, mixed with tallow 
greaves, and a little seasoning powder, as this 
produces very fine flesh, both in texture and 
colour. The rice requires careful prepara¬ 
tion. and every grain should be thoroughly 
swollen out. 

The birds should be starved for twenty- 
four or thirty-six hours previous to killing, 
carefully plucked, and packed into suitable 
crates. These crates are collected by carriers 
fn the evening, and the birds are in the hands 
of the salesmen early the following morning. 
The average prices for good ducklings arc ex¬ 
cellent, and, although the days of enormous 
prices for a few choice specimens are gone, 
and not likely to return, yet a high general 
average prevails, and the demand is much 
greater in the aggregate ; consequently, the 
profits are not seriously affected by the 
changed conditions of the market. 

_ E. T. B. 

BIRDS. 

Parrot ailing (M. Warder). —You had bet¬ 
ter try what a change of diet will do for your 
bird, giving it boiled Maize chiefly. This 
should be prepared fresh daily, and dried in 
a cloth before being put into the feeding-tin. 
Give it also Oats, Millet, Hemp, and a few 
Nuts. Do not let it have animal food in any 
form, neither should it have sop or slops of 
any kind. A hard biscuit or a dry crust of 
bread may, however, be given at any time, 
while a piece of cuttlefish-bone to nibble at 
will help to restore the bird to health. Coarse 
grit-sand must not be forgotten, as small 
stones in the gizzard are so essential to aid 
in the digestion of the food. For medicine, 
give a little carbonate of soda, putting five 
grains in two tablespoonfuls of drinking 
water. The best fruits for these birds are 
Banana. Sweet-water Grapes, ripe Pear, 
Sweet Orange, Walnuts, and Crack-nuts. 
You do not state what you are feeding your 
bird upon. It is therefore difficult to know 
what to recommend for the best. If it does 
not care for the boiled Maize, try it with dry 
Maize crushed.—S. S. G. 


AQUARIA. 

Management of goldfish pond (E. C.).— 
It will not be safe to put your fish into the 
pond until after the water hae been changed 
two or three times to ward off any ill effects 
that might arise from the new cement. Then 
cover the bottom of the pond with an inch 
or so of coarse sand, which must first be well 
washed and cleansed; over this lay about an 
inch of clean gravel. A few aquatic plants 
should then be added, such as the Water 
Crowfoot, the Water Milfoil, or the Ana- 
charis, tying a stone to the roots to keep 
them in position. Next fill up the pond with 
water. In a week or so bright bubbles of 
oxygen will he observed upon the stalks of 
the plants, the water becoming beautifully 
clear, and now is the time to introduce the 
fish, dropping them in carefully by means of 
a small hand-net. You will find it beneficial 
to put in a few water-snails, as these keep the 
stalks of the plants clear of the green con- 
fervid growth that would otherwise accumu¬ 
late upon them. With these precautions, 
the water will not require changing often, it 
being only necessary to add a little now and 
then, as evaporation takes place. Goldfish 
are very fond of vermicelli, and a little may 
be given them occasionally ; but it should be 
broken into very small pieces before being 
sprinkled upon the top of the water. Dried 
lean beef (not cooked), shredded very fine, is 
also very good for them. Goldfish do not 
often breed if kept in limited space; they 
will, however, sometimes deposit spawn when 
the pond or aquarium is of good depth, and 
well shaded at intervals with plants of strong 
growth.—S. S. G. 

United Horticultural Benefit and Provident 
Society.— The monthly committee meeting of this 
society was held at the Royal Horticultural Hall, 
Vincent-square, Westminster, on Monday evening 
last. Mr. Charles H. Curtis presided. Nine new 
members were elected and one nominated. The 
amount paid for sickness since the last meeting was 
1:52. A grant of £f> from the Benevolent fund was 
made to the widow of a late member, who was ill 
a long time. 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



172 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Mat 25, 1907 


CORRESPON DENCE. 

Questions. —Queries and answers arc inserted in 
Gardening free of charge if correspondents follow these 
rules: All communications should be dearly anil concisely 
written on one side of the paper only , and addressed to 
the Editor of Gardening, 17, Furni vat-street, Ilolborn, 
London, E.C. Letters on business should be sent to the. 
Publisher. The name and address of the sender are 
required in addition to any designation he may desire to 
be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, 
each should be on a separate piece of paper, and not more, 
than three queries should be sent at. a time. Correspon¬ 
dents should bear in mind that, as Gardening has to be 
sent to press some time in advance of date, queries cannot 
always be replied to in the issue immediately fallowing 
the receipt of their communication. We do not reply to 
queries by post. 

Naming fruit. —Readers who desire our help in 
naming fruit should bear in mind that sercral specimens 
in different stages of colour and sire of the same kind 
greatly assist in its determination. We hare received from 
several correspondents single, specimens of fruits for 
naming, these in many cases being unripe and other¬ 
wise poor. The differences between varieties of fruits are 
in many cases so trifling that it is necessary that three 
specimens of each kind should be sent. We can undertake 
to name only four varieties at a time, and these only when 
the above directions are observed. 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

Red spider on Cinerarias (R. S. Wiggins).— 
You are keeping your Cinerarias too hot and dry. 
Transfer them to a frame or pit faring north, and 
syringe them well with 2 ounces or 3 ounces of Gis- 
hurst compound in n gallon of water. If this does 
not do, then you had better throw the plants away, 
if they are, ns you say, "simply ruined with red- 
spider.” 

Pelargoniums unhealthy (J. K. M .).—Your 
Pelargoniums are attaeked hy one of the many fun¬ 
goid pests whieh are giving a good deal of trouble 
throughout the eoiintry. We should recommend 
spraying them with a solution of peinmngnnate of 
potash, marie of such n strength that the solution is 
of a pale rose colour. At the same time it must 
be borne in mind that highly-fed plants are more 
liable to he troubled than those grown under more 
natural conditions, and that a free circulation of air 
is one of the best preventives, 

Auricula flowers (.4.).— Your Auricula blooms, 
though pretty are, from a florist's view, poor. The 
variety shows hy its powdery paste that it is of the 
show sect ion, hut very inferior. 'I he petals are very 
rough and uneven, ami the edges much indented. The 
centre paste is thin and undeflned. Then there is no 
golden cup in the centre with its eye or anther called 
the thrum, but an objectionable pistil called a pin 
sticking out of the throat. Except to grow as an 
ordinary border variety, like the old Dusty Miller, 
the variety has no merit, and is entirely undeserving 
of a name. 

Treatment of Tulips If Tulips are left un¬ 
disturbed for several seasons they usually deteriorate. 
The best plan is to lift them after their leaves have 
died down, and store them in dry sand until the 
autumn, when they should he replanted. Tulips like 
a rich, porous, and deep soil where their roots are 
always well-nourished ami cool, but no manure should 
come into contact with the bulbs. Every year they 
have, during their growing period, to extract sulll- 
cient nutriment from the soil to form the embryo 
flower within the bulb, and if the soil gets every year 
poorer the flowers will naturally follow suit. 

Unsatisfactory border (R.).—The fact that the 
border you allude to is slinded by high walls is sulli 
eient to account for the condition of the soil. It 
would he a most unsuitable position for growing 
Violet plants Intended for subsequent frame culture, 
as they require sunlight to render them vigorous mid 
free-flowering. You might grow Ferns, the hardier 
garden Lilies, herbaceous Piconies, or Christmas Roses 
in it, hut the three latter subjects would not be likely 
to succeed unless the soil was deep and good. The 
failure of your Tulips to produce satisfactory bloom 
was evidently owing to the bulbs lacking strength to 
perfect the flowers. 

Seedling Auriculas (F. L .).~As soon as the 
plants are large enough to handle, prick them oil 
into pans or boxes 2 inches or so apart, and grow in 
a frame shaded from bright sun. When they have 
made some growth, shift into 4-inch pots, without 
disturbing the roots much, and return to the frame, 
which may be placed for the summer under a north 
wall. Drain the pots well and water carefully. They 
will grow very well in good, turfy loam, enriched with 
some old cow-manure that has crumbled into black 
mould, with a little sharp sand to keep it open. Use 
about two-thirds loam; the lights may be drawn off 
the frame in hot weather. Move to a light greenhouse 
from which the frost is kept out in November, and 
the plants will all flower next spring. 

Carnations falling (North Pole).—The outdoor 
Carnations have been badly attacked by the Carna¬ 
tion-maggot and by the wireworm; but in each case 
the damage is of long standing, and we could not 
And the pest in any of the stems or shoots. The 
only thing likely to check the maggot is to spray the 
plants with Quassia solution frequently in summer, 
and in this way render the plants distasteful to the 
fly depositing the eggs. The wireworm may he 
trapped by placing slices of Carrot or Potato about 
the base of the plants. The insect attacking En¬ 
chantress is, we believe, a minute organism, which 
enters the stem and bores around it under the skin. 
In this way the sap-vessels are severed, and the 
branch collapses. Cut off at once and burn the 
affected part, taking care to cut down to a point 
where the stem is quite green and firm. 

Sweet Peas and Beans too tall (Subscriber).— 
It you pinch out the tops of Sweet Pens after they 
arc some 2 feet to 8 feet in height, the effect should 
be to induce the plantjp-4«t branch out njd become 

Digitized by GOOgle 


more bushy, also less tall than if left unchecked. 
But it will also tend to check flowering, making it 
later, and very likely you will not obtain such line 
blooms. Generally, Sweet Pea growers do not pinch 
their plants—they let them have full play, and in 
rich, deep soil grow up to 7 feet in height, blooming 
freely for a long season. With respect to Runner 
Beans, theso will bear pinching: but. if done, the 
result is to check cropping greatly. It is a common 
thing in high-class gardens to see rows of these 
with such tall stakes that in the autumn the plants 
go up to 12 feet in height, and keep on cropping up 
to the latest possible moment. Perhaps your garden 
is much shaded. Jf so, it is difficult by pinching 
plants to prevent them growing very tall. 

Lilium candidum (G. G.). — It is hardly possible 
for us to give the reason for the non-flowering of 
your bulbs with nothing to guide us in the matter. 
You do not tell us whether the growtli made is 
healthy, or what size bulbs were planted originally, 
if the plants are quite healthy looking and produce 
their leaves near to the soil in August or September, 
and yet continue without flowers, it is but a question 
of insufficient size and strength of bulb, and there is 
nothing for it but-patient waiting for the bulbs to 
develop. This Lily does not like disturbance at any 
time, and the best time to plant or replant it Is in 
August, before the new leaves appear. Bulbs that 
have been much dried before being planted usually 
take a long time to recover. The position you name 
is quite right; but we can give no opinion as to 
your soil. Heavy soil should be freely drained hy 
the addition of road grit and sand, and, if the drain¬ 
age is correct and your plants healthy, the rest is 
but a question of time. 

Treatment of Cyclamens (G. P.) - It is very 
difhcult to assign any reason why your Cyclamens 
failed to bloom last season, more especially seeing 
that they did so well the year previous. Your treat¬ 
ment after flowering was evidently at fault, but as 
to this you say nothing. If the conns arc healthy, 
as also the foliage, we should advise you to dry the 
plants off gradually, not withholding water alto¬ 
gether, but only giving them a little occasionally, 
and resting them in a cool frame or house from now 
onwards, until, say, July, or as soon as new leaves 
arc beginning to appear from the conns. Shake out 
and repot and return to the cold-frame. Keep close 
and slightly shaded for a week or two, and lie very 
careful with the watering-pot until you see that the 
plants are growing freely, when more air may be 
admitted, eventually removing the lights altogether, 
only putting them on during heavy rain, which would 
sodden the soil. Keep all the flowers picked off until 
September, when the plants can lie removed to the 
greenhouse, keeping them well up to the glass. 

TREES AND SHRUBS. 

The Nepaul Laburnum (Piptanthus nepalensis) 
(Mrs. T. Eve ).—This is the name of the plant, a 
flowering shoot of which you send. It is hardy 
enough for walls, and in southern and western dis¬ 
tricts withstands our winter without this protection. 
It has evergreen foliage, and. in early .summer, long, 
dense clusters of bright-yellow flowers, similar to 
those of the Laburnum, but larger. It succeeds best 
in light soils, and is easily increased by seeds, layers, 
and cuttings of the ripened shoots in autumn. 

Azalea mollis in pots (Ii.).- These Azaleas are 
prepared specially for the English market by the 
Belgian growers, and are got full of buds, then sent 
over here, where, potted and stood in heat, they 
bloom abundantly. It usually takes two years of 
proper culture to get the plants into as good con¬ 
dition again. In your case we think you would be 
wise to plant yours, when you have well hardened it 
off, out into the open border, giving the soil about 
it a little peat and leaf-mould. Many home growers 
who understand them, when the plants have floweret! 
and have made new growtli, plant them out into 
peaty soil, and, if the shoots carry plenty of promis¬ 
ing buds, lift and repot them in the autumn. If 
they do not, then the plants remain outdoors a year 
longer. 

Azaleas after blooming (ft. S .).—Encourage the ; 
plants to grow freely by frequent syringing and the 
maintenance of a humid atmosphere in a tempera¬ 
ture of 55 degs. to C5 degs. A dose of weak soot- 
water applied to the roots about every fortnight is 
also an advantage. By midsummer the plants will 
have made good growth, when they may be hard¬ 
ened off and stood out-of-doors, as this ensures a 
thorough ripening of the wood and consequent for¬ 
mation of tiower-buds. Should tlie plants need re¬ 
potting, this may be done directly after flowering, 
using for the purpose a mixture of peat and sand, 
which must he pressed down firmly. It- must, how¬ 
ever, he borne in mind that Azaleas may be kept in 
health for years and flowered each season without 
repotting. Any straggling shoots may lie cut back 
as soon as the flowering is over, but not unless abso¬ 
lutely necessary, as the more pruning the fewer the 
flowers. 

FRUIT. 

Strawberry plants blind (J. S .).—You do not 
tell us the name of the Strawberry you are growing; 
but, evidently, you have got hold of a bad stock. 
Your better plan will be to destroy them, anil replace 
with plants from a reliable source. Ii is useless try 
ing to renovate a barren stock of Strawberries. 

Pruning Gooseberry and Currant bushes 
( Wolhngton ).—If the shoots of last season on your 
Gooseberry-bushes seem very long, you may shorten 
them back a few inches; but it is not the proper 
time to prune. Leave that until after the fruit is 
gathered. Then shorten back to one-half their length 
all inner or side shoots from the main branches, and 
in the winter cut each spur so left back to two buds, 
and also then out back the long points or outer shoot.* 
to one third of their length. Generally both Goose¬ 
berry and Black Currant branches need thinning in 
winter rather than cutting hard hack. Red Currants 
may have their new shoots cut back'to one half 
their length at midsummer. That will let in more 


air and sunshine to the portions left. These shoots 
in the winter may all be cut quite hard back—say, 
to two leaf-buds. Bushes of this description, kept 
clear, well pruned, and manured, often endure for 
twenty years. Propagation is done by cutting off ripe 
shoots 10 inches long in the autumn after the leaves 
have fallen, and planting them as cuttings. 

Blackened Pear bloom (Bloom).—Your sample 
of Pear fruit-germs in the blackened condition si nt 
represent the harm which sharp frost will do with 
such bloom in an exposed cold position. You make 
no mention of the nature of the soil in which the 
tree is grown, whether the position is a cold one or 
otherwise. If not duo to frost, have you in your 
locality any chemical works or factories, which dis¬ 
charge noxious gases from their chimneys, as such 
vapours often are destructive to bloom and foliage? 
If not that cause, then the fault must lie hi the 
roots having got into sour, wet, or very poor soil. 
The Pear-midge shows itself in the fruits after they 
have made some growth. Unless you can correct 
the trouble arising from one or oilier of the causes 
named, there seems little hope for better results. 

Pears failing (Glenagarey ).—We have carefully 
examined the leaves and fruit of the Pear you send 
us, and are unable to find any actual disease pre¬ 
sent. We are of the opinion that the blackened 
condition of the foliage is attributable to the cold, 
cutting winds, which have been so prevalent up to 
within the last few days, mid to nothing else. Frost 
would and does damage the young and tender leaves 
in the same manner; but the fruit generally suffers 
from its effects in a corresponding degree. A minute 
examination of the fruits you submitted reveals the 
fact that the embryos are uninjured, and such being 
the case, we see no reason why you should not se¬ 
cure a crop, there being nothing, so fur ns we see, 
to prevent the fruits from developing in the usual 
manner. 

VEGETABLES. 

Brown spots on Cabbage leaves (Spot).— 
Whilst it is possible that the numerous small brown 
spots seen on your Cabbage-leaves may be the pro¬ 
duct of a fungus—Phyllost ieta hrassiea*certainly not 
a common Cabbage pest, and not, as a rule, whe.i 
found, one giving much trouble. Still, we fail to 
find any evidence of spores in the spots. It seen s 
very probable that the leaves, being somewhat thin, 
bad suffered from scald—tile sun suddenly bursting 
out hotly, and thus creating, as it were, heat-lenses 
of the drops of moisture found on them. You may 
give your plants a dusting of lime and flowers of 
sulphur in equal parts whilst they are damp, leav¬ 
ing the rains to wash the powder off. Still, we think, 
as both Cabbage-plants and Spinach grow they will 
grow out of their trouble. If the spot increases, 
dust them weekly until cheeked. 


SHORT REPLIES. 

Jnncl. — We suppose you mean the old Champagne 
Rhubarb, wliieli can be had through any nurstry- 
inari. It will grow well in the soil you have, if you 
trench it deeply and incorporate some well-rotted 

row-manure with it. l*lant in the spring.- V. P. 

Perry. -We should advise you to mix some lime 

with the manure. This should destroy the insects. 
We do not reply to queries by post.— White Rote.— 
Sec note, " Ruses from cuttings," in our issue of 

April 27th. p. 115.- Mrs. Ilnswell.— We see no 

reason why the Sweet Pens should not answer trained 

as you propose.- Hang.—I, Please send some of the 

Vine-leaves. 2. Quite impossible to say. ns we have 

never used the paint to which you refer.- Lex.— 

You cannot do better than dig in some bone-meal, 
which you can purchase from any manure merchant. 

- Cantaloupe .—Your Melons have been attacked 

by canker. Bee article re Melons in our issue of 

May 4th, p. 129.-VEe.it Parh .—You should get a 

copy of " Alpine Flowers for Gardens.” in which the 

whole question is fully dealt with.- ('. J. It. Fraser. 

— We cannot understand your query; but, as you say 
"the walls arc of no use,” we should say demolish 

them.- Harrow. — Prunus cerasifera (the Cherry or 

Myrobalan Plum). If you want to make a good 

hedge, use Holly Instead of this.- Mrs. Booth.— 

The Wistaria and the Clematis can be increased by 
layers, while the Mountain Ash is best raised from 

seed.- Lobelia.— Not at all unusual for Lobelia to 

flower as you say. Ii. B.—“ Vines and Vine Cul¬ 
ture.” A. F. Barron, post free 5s. f.d.. from IS, 
Sutton Court-road, Chiswick, London, \V. 


NAMES OF PLANTS AND FRUITS. 

Names of plants Mrs. Pul/ord.— Clematis mon- 

tana riibens.- H. Greening. -Specimen too crushed 

to identify.-Slug?.— Rose Marie Van Jfoutte.- 

M. L. ('. H'.—Probably Clematis lanuginosa Excelsior. 

Should like to see from the open air.- Mr. J. Hill. 

—Quite impossible to name without flowers.- Mrs. 

J. James.- 1. Akebia quinata; 2, the Madeira Vine 
Boussingaultia busseloidefi); 3. Periploea grieea. pro¬ 
bably, specimen insufficient; 4, no such number in 
box. See fuller descriptions of the above on p. W4. 

- Mrs. Olircr. — Kibes sp. Must see in bloom to 

name with any certainty.-VP. M. — Akebia quinata, 

we think. It is very unfair to send such a poor 

specimen.- RusHcus .—The Bird Cherry (Primus 

Padus).- P. Biehnell .—Silene Armcria.-— B. and 

Sou. —Pynis Mains spectabllis.- Mrs. .S'. Knox Gore. 

—The flower sent for identification was quite unrecog¬ 
nisable, it being squeezed into a pulp. Please send 
another flower, carefully packed in a small box, 
with description of plant, and. if possible, its 
native habitat. On receipt of this we shall be very 
pleased to assist you. It is probably a variety of 
Kulophia or Lissochilus, but impossible to deter¬ 
mine.- R. E. Nicholls.—l, Primula denticulata: 2, 

Azalea amcena.T-yr-4K.—KaJnua Iatifolia.- Mrs. 

L. G. A listen.— Quite impossible to form any opinion 
fjr<j»m suck, dried-up flowers as you pud, 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


No. 1,473 

—Yol. 

XXIX. 

Founded by W. Robinson, AutTior of “The English Flouvr Garden.” 


JUNE 1, 1907 






INDEX. 






Apple Ann Elizabeth, 

Deiulrnbiutn Wiganiie 


Gypsophila panlculata, 


Pansies, Tufted, of 


Pymsps, two rich- 

177 

Shrubs for next winter s 

181 

origin of tho .. 

.. 173 

xanthochilum .. 

175 

protecting 

179 

lavender and kindred 


eolom^d. 

forcing. 

Apricots 

.. 173 

Ferns . 

175 

Hollies, moving .. 

177 

shades of colour 

179 

Rockets, double.. 

179 

Slugs, destroying 

178 

A.-paragua roots, fungus 

Ferns grown in baskets 

175 

Indoor plants 

Iris pallida var. Tinaei 

181 

Peach-house, late 

181 

Rose Aglaia not flower- 


Spotted snake milli- 


on 

.. 180 

Fruit . 

173 

179 

Peaches, thinning 

174 


178 

pede, the 

ISO 

Aspidistra failing 

.. 182 

Fruit garden 

18*.! 

Lilacs not flowering 

182 

Pear-leaf blister mite .. 

174 

Rcse Margaret. Dickson 


Strawberries, mildew on 


Asters failing 

.. 180 

Fruit-trees in bloom .. 

173 

Magnolia Ixmnei 

17 V 

Peas and Keans injured 

180 

as a standard .. 

176 

forced. 

174 

Azalea indica 

after 

Fruit-trees, renovating 

173 

Melons in frames, grow- 


Periwinkles, fungus on 

180 

Rose Paul Transon 

176 

Tomato and Pelargo- 


flowering 

.. 181 

Garden diary, extracts 


ing . 

174 

Pines . 

181 

Rose Senateur Belle .. 

176 

Diuni leaves, fungus 


Bull* 

.. 182 

from a. 

182 

Narcissi, double white, 


Pir.guieula e&uduLa .. 

181 

Roses . 

176 

on. 

180 

Carnations dying 

.. 182 

Garden, insects in 

180 

failing. 

Nephrolepis Fiersoni 

178 

Plants and flowers 

175 

Roses, budding v. graft- 


Transplanting, lute 

Trees and shrubs 

1VV 

L hrysanthemuma 

.. ISO 

Garden pests and friends 

180 


Plants, hurdy, failure of 

178 

ing . 

176 

177 

Chrysanthemums- 

-sea- 

Garden walla 

178 

and N. todeaoides re- 


Plants in the stove, 


Roses, more new 

176 

Turnip flea, the 
Vegetable garden 

180 

sonable hints . . 

.. 180 

Garden work 

181 

verting. 

175 

crowding 

181 

Roses, Moss, the growths 


182 

Conservatory 

.. 181 

Genista fragrant! after 


< >rohidB. 

175 

Poppy Anemones 

179 

of. 

182 

Vine leaves, warts cm .. 

174 

Convolvulus major 

and 

blooming 

Grapes, scalding of 

181 

Outdoor plants .. 

178 

Prophet-flower (Arnobia 


Seeds, brimstone for 


Weed, coarse, in lawn 

178 

minor 

.. 179 

173 

Raima, unhealthy 

182 

echioides), the.. 

182 

dressing small.. 

180 

\V eek s work, the coming 

182 


FRUIT. 

FRUIT-TREES IN BLOOM. 

TnE various kinds of fruit trees now laden 
with blossom form most conspicuous objects 
in the garden landscape, and tli<* wonder is j 
that they are not more extensively used for 
ornamental planting. The general opinion 
appears to be that the orchard and kitchen 
garden are the only places in which fruit- 
trees should be planted; but such an im¬ 
pression, it need hardly he said, is erroneous. 
Flowering trees and shrubs far less effective 
than either the Apple or Pear are given pro¬ 
minent positions in the flower garden and 
pleasure grounds, and, therefore, why exclude 
fruit-trees? An old Pear-tree on the lawn 
of a garden of my acquaintance haa been a 
picture for some weeks past, and close by it 
are several huge Apple-trees just bursting 
their charming pink blossoms. The stems, 
too, of these are covered with Ayrshire Roses, 
which flower profusely through the summer, 
and thus the trees are by no means ineffective 
when their blossoms are over. Well would it 
be could the same Ik,* said of more gardens, 
and in shrubberies fruit-trees are deserving 
of being extensively planted, if only for their 
beauty alone. 

If the planting of fruit-trees for ornament 
be done with discretion, a prolonged display 
of bloom may be had. In early spring the 
Almonds and Peaches, and particularly the 
large single and double flowered kinds, are 
very effective, while following them closely 
come the Plums and Cherries. Of the latter, 
the common wild sort is very attractive when 
grown into a large tree and covered with 
beautiful white bloom. The double variety, 
too, is charming, the pure white flowers being 
also very useful for cutting. Then the Pears 
are usually a sheet of white bloom, which 
contrasts beautifully with the pinkish flowers 
of the common Crab and early kinds of 
Apples. In Apples alone a great variety of 
colour in bloom may be bad. The richly 
coloured and large-blossomed kinds are much 
the best for this purpose, they being by far 
the most effective. Of these, there are many, 
including such kinds os Mnnks Codlin, 
Warner’s King, Cox’s Orange Pippin, New 
Hawthornden, Norfolk Benulin. Lord Suffield, 
Grange’s Winter Peannain, Nelson Codlin, 
Red Astraehan, Worcester Pcarmain, and 
others. Blenheim Orange makes a fine lawn 
tree, and the same may be said of Wellington. 

F. 


APRICOTS. 

It is quite a pleasure to be able to report 
that a full crop of Apricots has been secured, 
after several seasons of partial failure. The 
trees were much later than usual in coming 
into bloom, and although cold winds pre¬ 
vailed and there wore a few morning fronts 
during the blossoming period, the embryos 
sustained no damage, and the result is as is 
recorded above. For several seasons past 

Digitized by 



th# prospects have been equally good, hut 
sharp morning frosts, in spite of protection 
being afforded, have always robbed us of 
quite throe-fourths, and sometimes more, of 
the crop, a very disappointing result when 
the time and labour expended on the trees 
from one year’s end to another are taken into 
consideration. This season’s bountiful crop 
is therefore all the more welcome, and, con¬ 
trary to the past few years’ experiences, there 
is much thinning to be done ere the fruits 
reach the stoning period. The trees were 
given a thorough root-watering so soon as 
the fruit was set, and at the time of writing 
the forwardest are about the size of horse- 
beans. Although the weather is now so 
genial, and particularly suited tq the require¬ 
ments of the Apricot, protection will not be 
dispensed with until another week has passed 
by, as past experience leads one to expect a 
spell of cold weather towards the end of the 
present month. Others who have been fortu¬ 
nate enough to secure a good set of fruit 
should guard against the error which many 
fall into, owing to the Apricot crop being 
what may be termed a precarious one, in al¬ 
lowing the trees to carry far more fruits 
than they should do, with the idea of 
making amends for previous disappoint¬ 
ments. This ends in overtaxing the energies 
of the trees, and the result is, if they do 
produce fruit blossom the next, spring, it 
generally fails to set, and a whole season is 
requisite for their recuperation in conse¬ 
quence. A. W. 


RENOVATING FRUIT-TREES. 
(Reply to “Montana.”) 

With respect to your Jargonelle Penr-tree 
on the house walls, if. as vve infer from your 
letter, it has upon it a good deni of breast- 
wood -that is, shoots growing outwards from 
the branches, and having no bloom on them— 
although it is late, you had better have these 
cut close off at once. No doubt others will 
break out again, but If at the end of July 
you can have all those out hack to four leaves, 
and in the winter still shorter to two buds, 
you may, in a year or two, get the tree to 
fruit better than it now does. With respect 
to all other trees growing as standards in 
the garden, you can do very little to them 
now. You had best leave pruning or thinning 
the beads till next winter; then have the 
heads considerably thinned. Also, if you can 
make up a wash of lime-white and soot, and 
have the stems and branches as far up ns 
can he reached coated with the wash, that 
will help to clean the trees a good deal. 
Possibly forking in some manure about the 
roots will do the trees good. Have your Red 
Currants thinned and pruned next winter. As 
to the Blaek Currants, it is evident they are 
badlv affected with the Currant-mite, or big 
bud. You can at once pick off and burn all 
the big or abortive buds. We fear you will 
find it needful to root up and burn the lot, 
if found so had as not to bo worth saving. 
Should you next winter ^purchase other young 


bushes, get an assurance that they have no 
big bud oil them, and plant in fresh ground. 
Once the mite gets hold of hushes it is 
almost impossible to clear it out. We advise 
you to read this paper carefully every week, 
as in that way you may find much information 
that is useful. Also do not hesitate to ask 
us any questions that may arise, as it is 
specially our desire to help amateur gardeners 
such us yourself. 


ORIGIN OF THE ANN ELIZABETH . 
APPLE. 

To the Editor of Gardening Illustrated. 

Sir. —I came across yesterday the article 
on the Ann Elizabeth Apple, and as I have 
eaten many from the original tree, which 
hung over my tennis lawn, perhaps my 
account of it may be of some interest. 

The tree came from a pip placed in a 
flower pot by the daughter of the then tenant 
or owner of the house and grounds. The 
Apple was given her by a friend, and had, I 
think, been bought, in the town. It came up, 
and was placed by the girl in the corner of 
the garden rather too close to the wall. How¬ 
ever, it grew rapidly, and in a few years, to 
everyone’s surprise, blossomed and bore fruit, 
which appeared different from any known. 
r l lie girl’s father asked Mr. Harrison (who, I 
think, died in the 90’s) to come up to Avenue- 
road, Leicester, and look at the Apple. lie 
did so, and said lie had never seen one quite 
like it. and could not name it ; but, asking 
what the girl’s Christian name was, was told 
Ann Elizabeth (l think not Annie). Then, 
said Mr. Harrison, enll it after her -and it. 
was. The original tree was very healthy, 
always bore a good crop, and was an admir 
able keeper. 1 sent many a cutting from it 
to friends for grafting, but was told by more 
than one that the. Apple was not anything 
like those on the original tree—seemed to 
have deteriorated. I am speaking in this 
letter of over twenty years ago, when I lived 
next house to where the tree was. 

A. W. Mansergh (Lt.-Col.). 

The Manor 71 nu*r, Warren point, (\>. Jh.wn. 


SCALDING OF GRAPES. 

The season will soon lie at hand when the 
dreaded evil of what is termed scalding ap- 
pears. As is well known, all varieties of 
Grapes are not liable to l>e so affected, and 
except with Lady Downe’s, which is more 
addicted to this evil than any other, it is 
rarely scalding takes place. Modresfiehl 
Court in rare instances is sometimes affected, 
and also the Muscat of Alexandria. Lady 
Downe’s is much subject to the evil, and ex¬ 
treme care is needed witli the inside manage¬ 
ment of the vinery at the period when scald¬ 
ing is likely to take place. Scalding may lx* 
successfully combatted. Five minute*’ neglect 
is sufficient to spoil a whole house full of 
Grapes. Grapes are also subject to scalding 
upon sudden out hursts! of sun during a stormy 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 





















174 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Juke 1, 1907 


day if the man in charge is not sufficiently 
on tlu* alert to put on extra ventilation upon 
the first glimpse of sun, anrl also upon too 
curly closing in the afternoon, and running up 
the temperature by sun-heat. The period of 
scalding extends to about three weeks, and 
takes place during the latter stage of stoning. 
The swelling of the berries during the ston¬ 
ing process is suspended for the time being, 
the whole resources of the Vines being ex¬ 
pended upon this exhausting process. If rill 
goes well during this period, then satisfactory 
results generally take place afterwards. 

As regards the causes of scalding, there are 
different opinions, but so far 1 think the 
principal point is not to allow the tempera¬ 
ture of the berries to become so cold in com¬ 
parison to the surrounding atmosphere as to 
prevent moisture from condensing on them. 
The berries being cold, the moisture natur¬ 
ally settles upon the surface. To illustrate 
my meaning, it may have been observed 
how quickly the moisture settles on ripe black 
Grapes when sufficient air has not been ap 
plied in time. The berries being black, the 
moisture is easily discernible, but while in a 
green stage the moisture is not so noticeable. 
Vines with the roots working in a cold 
medium are also more addicted to scalding 
than those with the roots working in a warm 
border. The results of this are seen in the 
cruse of growing Vines in the early evening, 
os it is very noticeable how quickly the mois¬ 
ture hangs to or condenses on the edges of 
the leaves. I have frequently found that 
when this takes place to an undue extent, the 
roots are working in too cold a medium for 
the well-being of the Vines, and also that the 
Vines are more addicted to the evil of 
scalding. 

Having stated my views of the causes which 
lead up to scalding, it remains now to explain 
the means which will prevent this taking 
place. Amongst the various means put for¬ 
ward as preventives, a light shading is some¬ 
times recommended, such as whitening being 
syringed over the glass, this obstructing the 
rays of the sun. but as shading tends to 
weaken the texture of the foliage when ap¬ 
plied for the length of time necessary, I pre¬ 
fer a judicious inside treatment. A little top 
ventilation is also sometimes recommended, 
and. with sufficient heat in the pipes, I have 
found this answer well enough. 1 have also 
seen it stated that the lowering of a single 
light an inch or two at the end of the struc¬ 
ture, where the sun’s rays catch the roof 
early in the morning, will also obviate scald¬ 
ing, but I should be very sorry to resort, to 
(tucii means solely as a preventive of scalding. 
With some people it is also the practice upon 
a bright spell of warm weather occurring to 
abandon artificial heat for the time being, 
and although the air may seem genial over¬ 
night, and also early in the morning, yet 
during the early hours the temperature where 
such a practice is adopted falls very low in¬ 
deed, or at, least too low for the benefit of the 
Vines, and this alone conduces considerably 
to lowering the temperature of the berries. 
The practice which l adopt successfully is to 
have sufficient heat in the pipes to prevent 
the temperature falling below Gi» (legs, by 
6 a.m. the following morning, a little ventila¬ 
tion also being given both.at the apex of the 
structure and on the front ventilators. The 
ventilation is increased as the sun gains 
power. During the afternoon the ventilation 
would Ik* reduced in proportion, provided the 
inside t**mjK*raturc did not rise higher or very 
little above the temperature before the air 
was reduced. Some people leave the venti¬ 
lation on until late in the evening before 
attempting to reduce it, but, this practice 
tends to starve the Vines. Damping down 
the structure and closing early with sun-heat 
certainly favour scalding. As soon as colour¬ 
ing commences, all danger is past. A. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Mildew on forced Strawberries —I wish tn 
Know the cause of mildew on forced Strawberries’.' 
They did well until two years ago.—M rs. Knderuy 
[Mildew on forced Strawberries may lie the 
result of the plants having been layered from 
others similarly affected outdoors last, season, 
or perhaps you have been maintaining a cool, 
damp atmosphere and insufficiently ventila¬ 
ting the house in which you have forced the 

Digitized by >QlC 


plants. Cold, cutting draughts amongst the 
young and tender leaves will also cause it, 
particularly when the wind is from the north 
or cast. In this ease the prevention lies in 
airing the house with care, even going so far 
as to stretch coarse muslin or tiffany over the 
ventilators for the cold air to filter through. 
If the house is span-roofed, you may get over 
the difficulty by using the ventilators opening 
on the opposite side to that from which tne 
wind may be blowing for the time licing. If 
mildew lias resulted from the second named 
cause, keep the internal atmosphere drier and 
more buoyant by employing sufficient fire-heat 
to keep the air constantly circulating another 
season, and, under these conditions, you 
should not be troubled further with this fun¬ 
goid disease. If the trouble has come about 
through having layered from an infected 
stock, procure plants from elsewhere ; or, if 
this is inconvenient, take pains to dip the 
plants In-fore taking them into their forcing 
quarters in soft soapy water, to which has 
been added a handful of flowers of sulphur. 
A careful look-out must, lie kept afterwards, 
and directly the slightest sign of mildew is 
detected dust sulphur on the affected portions 
of the foliage. Should much of the foliage 
become affected before it is detected, paint 
the pipes with sulphur in the evening, after 
making them so hot that, they can hardly he 
touched with the bare hand. For this pur¬ 
pose add sufficient water to the requisite 
quantity of sulphur, so that, it can bo easily 
applied, and about 1 oz. of soft soap. Apply 
with a whitewash brush. It. is highly neces¬ 
sary to scotch the disease in the initial j 
stage, as it were, for if it once attacks the 
fruits they become practically ruined, and 
remedies are then of no avail.] 

Warts on Vine leaves — I am forwarding you a 
few leaves from a Black lliimhurgli Vine, which seem 
to he affected with insects or some disease. I should 
he glad if you will, through your pages, tell me wliat 
it is, how caused, and the best way to get rid of itV— 
Anxious. 

[The wart like excrescences on the under 
sides of the leaves which you send are due 
to one of the greatest errors too much mois¬ 
ture—which amateurs commit in the treat¬ 
ment, of Vines. Especially in the case of 
young Vines is it more noticeable. Vines 
which have their foliage covered on the under 
side with warts cannot perfect a crop of 
Grapes so well as those which have their 
leaves free of such unnatural excrescences. 
This defect in growth is the outcome of too 
much moisture upon the leaves and in the 
atmosphere. In the latter form the mischief 
is most generally committed, although in con¬ 
junction with on insufficient supply of fresh 
air. Amongst cultivators generally it is a 
rule to damp the surface of the borders, 
paths, walls, and stages, if there be any in¬ 
side the house, twice daily, and in some in¬ 
stances oftener. This treatment is all very 
well when judiciously carried out—that is, 
when the days are bright and dry, so that an 
abundance of air can be admitted to the house* 
without unduly cooling the temperature but 
loading the inside of the house with moisture 
when the outside elements do not admit of 
sufficient fresh air being admitted, causes the 
formation of the warts. In the case of new 
vineries, cr even old ones, where the Vines 
have just been planted, many persons drench 
the foliagj twice daily during the time growth 
is active. This treatment may be correct 
when the weather is hot and the outside 
atmosphere dry, but when the atmosphere is 
loaded with moisture, and but little of the 
sun’s power felt, then the daily syringing 
twice, or even once, is a mistake. Grape 
growers who are year after year successful 
study the appearance of the weather daily 
before determining the treatment the Vines 
shall receive for that, day, as upon this point 
depends much of their success. Too much 
atmospheric moisture inside any vinery must 
lie avoided. Moisture is necessary for the 
life and success of the Vines in perfecting 
their crop of fruit, but it should be given in 
such a manner as to be easily balanced by a 
judicious supply oT fresh air. The first thing 
to do when Vine leaves are affected with warts 
is to check the supply of moisture, in the air 
by damping down the borders only when the 
weather is bright, and tlus but once daily, 
preferring the afternoon at the time of closing 
the house. Air should be admitted very early 


in the morning when the temperature reaches 
70 (legs. When the temperature is allowed 
to rise to 80 dogs, liefore any air is given, the 
air in the house becomes stagnant, and is not 
conducive to a healthy growth of the Vines ; 
the pores or the leaves become so gorged with 
an excess of moisture that assimilation is 
hindered to a serious extent, the result being 
warty foliage. If the atmosphere outside is 
loaded with moisture, it, is the height of folly 
to do likewise inside the vinery. By equalis¬ 
ing the supply of moisture and heat, in the 
vinery, both very necessary matters in Grape 
culture, Vines affected with warty foliage can 
be cleared of these excrescences in the future 
growth ; it is not possible, perhaps, to rid the 
present leaves of the warts when once tho¬ 
roughly affected, but the after growth can be 
made perfect by a judicious application of 
air to the house, aided by the proper regula¬ 
tion of moisture.] 

Crowing Melons in frames (Pavtgwtjn). 
—If you have hut one frame, and wish to 
start growing Melons in it, you had lietter 
purchase plants from some gardener who can 
let you have strong ones in pots two or three 
weeks lienee. But Melons need for a time vet 
some heat, and in a wooden frame that can 
be furnished only by a hot bed. Get a 
good cartload of fresh hOrse-manure, hav¬ 
ing in it but little of long straw. Spread it 
about a foot thick, rnd well sprinkle it with 
water; then put it into a heap. Let it. lie 
several days until it heats, then turn it, and 
fresh damp it, giving it a third turn later ; 
then make it up into a solid bed just a few 
inches longer and broader than is the frame. 
Put the frame on and into the centre a mound 
of a bushel of good turfy loam. Let steam 
escape at the back of the frame, and so soon 
as that is over put out your plants into the 
centre of the mound, watering them and 
shading a little during hot sunshine. As the 
roots come through the mound, add a little 
fresh soil, and also put a thickness of 3 inches 
over the rest of the bed. As growth proceeds 
a little air must be given to the plants in the 
day by tilting the light at, the back an inch or 
so. Bees may also in that way enter and help 
to set or fertilise the flowers. There are male 
flowers and female flowers. When both kinds 
are fully open you must gather a male flower, 
tear off the petals, then press the cluster of 
stamens which contain the pollen into the 
- centre of a female flower, and, generally, 
setting follows. Four to six fruits are 
ample for one plant to carry. If more be 
set, they may fail to swell. It is easy to set 
more and then retain the fruits that swell 
best, pinching out the others. Shoots that 
have no fruit, bloom on them may be pinched 
or cut out, to prevent the plants from be¬ 
coming too tjuck. A gentle damping liefore 
the light is closed down helps to keep off red- 
spider. 

Peaches, thinning— I have a Peach-tree against 
:i wall, and the fruit b setting very well. Aliout 
what quantity should it carry? It is about 10 feet 
high and 1*2 feet wide.— B. P. 

[When your Peaches set very thickly, then 
a moderate reduction should lx* made as soon 
as they arc set and swelling, continuing this 
periodically. By doing it in this way the 
work is simplified, because it is easy to leave 
the finer samples, owing to the lead they 
always take. One fruit to each square foot 
of tree surface is sufficient for a crop. Two 
fruits ought never to lie left on one branch. 
From 9 inches to a foot apart will lx? a good 
crop, if this is uniform over the whole tree.] 

Pear-leaf blister mite— What causes this? 
Does it spread? My Duchesse d'Angnulenu*. facing 
east,, was covered with bloom, but not. one has set, 
and all the. leaves are like the specimens I send. Can 
1 do anything?- F. U. Dittos. 

[The leaves of your Pear are infested bv 
the Pear-leaf blister mite (Eriophcs pyri). 
This pest spreads but slowly, but it is cer¬ 
tainly more common than it was a few years 
ago. if one may judge by the number of in¬ 
quiries made about it. Insecticides at this 
time of year arc not of miifli use, but at the 
end of June or early in July the affected 
leaves should be picked off and burnt, and in 
the course of the winter spray the trees with 
a caustic wash or a solution of paraffin. Care 
should be taken that all the buds, and parti¬ 
cularly the terminal ones, should receive the 
spray.—G. S. S.] 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




June 1 , 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 



PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

ORCH1D8. 

DENDROBIUM WIGANLE XANTHO- 
CHILUM. 

This Dendrobium is quite distinct, both as 
regards colour and shape of flowers, from 
the ordinary forms of D. Wiganite, the colour 
being a soft bright yellow, the lips having a 
rich maroon disc. The plant was first raised 
at Burford, the parents lxung a bright yel¬ 


baso, but healthy plants should not be re¬ 
potted unlees absolutely necessary—that is, 
when the pot lias become too small for the 
proper development of the growths, or if the 
plnnt has deteriorated through loss of roots, 
etc. Fill the pot to nearly half its depth 
with drainage, and use three parts chopped 
Sphagnum Moss to one part peat, adding 
sufficient small crocks and silver-sand to ren¬ 
der the soil porous. After potting, keep the 
compost rathei* on the dry side for a few 
weeks, and as the young growths emit more 
roots, moisture at the root and in the atmos¬ 
phere may he gradually increased. Grow the 
plant in the East Indian-house or plant stove, 


Dendrobium Wigani® xanthochiluni. 


low form of the now rare D. signatum and 
I). nubile, the principal characteristics of the 
former parent having an undoubted predo- 
minonoe in the progeny. When first exhibited 
at the Royal Horticultural Society’s meeting 
on February 10th, 1903, it recived a first-class 
certificate from the Orchid committee. Un¬ 
fortunately, its constitution is not so robust, 
nor is it so strong a grower as the original 
variety of D. Wiganise, but with care good 
flowering plants may be obtained. The pots 
used for this Dendrobium should be small in 
comparison with the size of the plant, as over¬ 
potting is likely to prove sooner or later in¬ 
jurious. The proper time for repotting is 
when the young growth is several inches high, 
and new’ roots are seen pushing out from its 

Digitized by GOOgle 


choosing a rather shady position until the 
growths are nearly completed, when it may 
be gradually exposed to full sunshine, so as 
to harden and mature the new pseudo bulbs. 
Not being so strong a grower as either of its 
parents, the plant should not be subjected to 
the severe drying and resting treatment that 
are generally afforded them on the completion 
of growth, it being preferable to keep this 
plant in the growing-house the whole year 
round. When the new pseudo-bulbs are fully 
made up, only give sufficient water to prevent 
the flowering growths shrivelling unduly. 
Given euch treatment, the plant, as may be 
seen by the illustration, retains its foliage, 
which is a considerable advantage when the 
plant is wanted for decoration in the house. 


FERNS. 


“The English Flower Garden and Home 

Grounds.”—A r ew Edition , 10th, revised, itrith descrip¬ 
tions of all the best plants, trees, and shrubs, their 
culture ami arrangement, illustrated on wood. Cloth, 
medium, 8vo., lfis.; post free, 15s. 6d. 

“The English Flower Garden” may also be 
had finely bound in 2 vole., half morocco, 2’,s. nett. Of 
all booksellers. 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAI6N 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 
Neplirolepis tiersoni and N. todeaoides re¬ 
verting.— Will you or any of your readers tell me 
why Nephrolepis Piersoni and N. todeaoides develop 
two kinds of fronds? 1 have a large plant of N. 
Piersoni, and there is not one frond in ten worthy 
of the name it hears. I got N. todeaoides this 
spring, and it looks as if it were going to he the 
same. The plants are in good health. N. Piersoni 
has some fronds, each nearly 4 feet long. Do you 
think it is because the plants are making too vigorous 
growth?—O. T. CJ.. Hull. 

[Both the forms of Nephrolepis concerning 
which you inquire arc varieties of Nephro¬ 
lepis exaltata, hence it is quite 
possible that they may show a 
tendency to revert to the type. 
At the same time, we have seen 
them grown in quantity, and 
while N. Piersoni will occasion¬ 
ally show signs of reversion, we 
have not met with it in the case 
of N. todeaoides. Judging by 
the many specimens we nave 
seen, you are decidedly unfor¬ 
tunate in the matter, and should 
suggest that if the plants are 
cultivated in a less vigorous 
fashion you would probably not 
have any further cause of com¬ 
plaint.] 

Ferns grown in baskets. A 

well-grown basket of Ferns is os 
beautiful an object as can well 
be imagined. During the hot 
summer months the varying 
shades of green in their arching 
feathery fronds impart an ele¬ 
gant and cool appearance, and 
when two or more sets of plants 
are grown for the purpose, so a« 
to admit of frequent changes, 
the interesting features of this 
mode of decoration are consider¬ 
ably enhanced. Almost all the 
hardier kinds of stove and 
greenhouse Ferns do well in 
baskets, not only those whose 
mode of growth naturally fits 
them for suspending, but many 
of the erect growers also. The 
most suitable kind of basket is 
a plain hemispherical wire one, 
well painted, and a good general 
compost to grow the Ferns in is 
one composed of three parts 
turfy peat, one part light loam. . 
and one part sharp silver sand. 
Before inserting the plants the 
baskets should be lined with a 
layer of fibrous peat, and a few 
large potsherds should be placed 
at the bottom for drainage, an 
important point even in the case 
of baskets. The spaces between 
the roots and sides of the. 
baskets should be filled up with 
the compost previously named, 
mixed with pieces of charcoal 
or potsherds, in order to allow 
the air to permeate the soil. 
With the view of Riding the soil 
and the wire of the basket, 
plant in and around it such 
things as Panicum variegatum, 
Tradescantia zebrina, Isolcpis 
gracilis, and such Selaginelias 
as Kraussiana; all answer well, 
and are, moreover, themselves 
attractive. After the baskets 
are filled they should be placed 
in a suitable glass structure to make good 
growth, and before hanging them up where 
required . they should be hardened off a 
little. If attended to as regards water 
at the roots, which should be given by plung¬ 
ing them into a vessel of water for a time, 
and then allowing them to drain dry before 
replacing them, they will last in beauty a 
long time. 









176 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Juke 1, 1907 


ROSES. 

MORE NEW ROSES. 

Tea Scented. 

Anne Lkyuues, raised by M. Nabonnand. 
between General Schablikine and Countess 
Bardi, is a very vigorous grower, making a 
fine bush. The colour is a rich carmine. 

Berthe Kleman is another from M. 
Nabonnand. He has used as pollen parent 
G. Nabonnand crossed with Sivfrano, and a 
good novelty has been the result. It re¬ 
sembles G. Nabonnand in many respects. 

Florence Tron.— A cross between Albert 
Stopford and Tillier, is yet another from M. 
Nabonnand. It is brilliant carmine, the 
inner side of petals a silver pink. It is very 
distinct in its colouring, and a fine, vigorous 
grower. 

Herero Trotha, a variety in the way of 
Mme. Lambard, coming from Herr Lambert, 
the raiser of Frau Karl Druschki, is said 
to be a cross between Aglaia and Marie Van 
Houtte, a truly remarkable cross. 

Lena, an English-raised seedling of won¬ 
drous beauty, is of a rich apricot colour, 
quite surpassing Beryl, probably its parent. 
It will prove a valuable garden sort. It was 
raised by Messrs. A. Dickson and Sons, of 
Newtownards. 

Mme. Gamow, n pretty flower, although 
somewhat under sized to make a show bloom, 
in colour is of a rich apricot hue, shaded 
salmon-rose, and yellow base. It has fine 
long buds, and is sweet, scented. 

The most lovely novelty added to the true 
Teas is, perhaps, 

Mme. Constant Soupert. which will 
assuredly be a formidable rival to Cointesse 
de Nadaillac. It has possibly sprung from 
the same parentage as Souvenir do Pierre 
Notting, the flower being similar in shape, 
the colour yellow, with a pretty pencil shad 
ing. It should lie budded on half-standard 
Briers, if possible. 

Mme. Maurice Donnay.— This large rosy- 
red flower is a cross between Albert Stopford 
and Christine de Noue, and possesses in its 
blooms a resemblance to both parents. The 
latter was a grand sort, and should never 
have been allowed to drop out of our collec¬ 
tions. Albert Stopford is one of those fine 
Teas which everyone should grow. 

Mrs. Peter Blair has the glorious colour 
of Georges Schwartz, but of more vigorous 
growth. This latter grows well enough under 
glass, but somewhow it is a failure outdoors. 

I expect better things from Mrs. Peter Blair. 
If not, I shall not have much of an opinion of 
the judges who gave it the gold medal, be- I 
cause surely the sturdiness of a Rose should ; 
lie assured ere this coveted honour is be- j 
stowed. 

Mrs. Myles Kennedy, a flower after the 
type of Souvenir d’Elise Vardon, but a 1 letter 
grower. No better commendation could be 
needed than this, especially to those who re¬ 
member the superb blossoms one used to see 
in the Crystal Palace days of Rose shows. 

Nelly Johnstone emanates from Mme. 
Berkeley, so should, therefore, be a good sort. 

Hybrid Perpetuals. 

David R. Williamson is a fine addition to 
a tribe that seems to bt* waning in popularity. 
This novelty is of a very beautiful glowing 
cherry-red colour. 

Dr. Wm. Gordon is another Rose that will 1 
borne to the front. I believe it will be very 
popular with growers for market, especially 
those who produce fine individual blooms. 

M. H. Walsh.—T his, with flowers of a rich 
velvety crimson scarlet, is of vigorous growth, 
and a good Rose for the autumn. 

Obf.rhofgartner A. Singer.— This was 
illustrated in these columns on April 27th 
last. I need only include it in this list as 
being a very worthy addition. 

Polya nth a Roses. 

A delightful tribe, which seems destined to 
have many fine novelties added in the future. 
In the variety 

Aenncken* Muller, noticed in these 
columns on May 18th last, we have a very 
distinct break, remarkable for its Cactus-like 
blooms and the tenacity with which they re- i 
main on the plant. 

Martha is almost Tea-like in its habit. . 
and were it not for the tiny flowers one would, i 

Digitized by (jOO^lC 


take it to belong to this tribe. The blossoms 
are like miniature specimens of Augustine 
Guinoisseau, and much resemble Philippine 
Lambert. 

Mrs. W. II. Cutbush, a sport from Mme. 
N. Levavasseur, will also become a valuable 
novelty to the florist and all who have much 
decorative work to do. It is of a soft tone of 
pink. 

WlCHURAIANA. 

One of the loveliest additions to this now 
popular tribe is 

Joseph BillaRD. I should say this, when 
well known, will become as great a favourite 
as Jersey Beauty. It has a bloom ns large, 
quite single, and of a rich carmine colour, 
with beautiful yellow base to petals. 

Multiflora. 

Perhaps the most beautiful additon in this 
section is 

Hiawatha. —It is a glorious bit of colour, 
rich glowing crimson. The stamens on young 
flowers are golden, then die off to white. The 
trusses, having many of these golden-centred 
blooms interspersed, are very handsome.. It 
is easy to cut long, pliable pieces some 
12 feet to 15 feet in length, all covered with 
the gorgeous sprays. In 

Kathleen Messrs. Wm. Paul and Son 
have given us a variety of wondrous beauty, 
the trusses, when fully developed, reminding 
one of a fine Cineraria, the white eye of each 
blossom being so clear. The colour is a rich 
carmine-rose. If anything, this variety is 
even more persistent than the majority of the 
multiflora section. 

Tansendschon was noticed in these 
columns on May 4th last, page 120, under the 
heading of “’A Beautiful New Rambler Row',” 
but the name was accidentally omitted. It, is 
a really superb sort, with very large semi- 
double blossoms, and is a decided break from 
the small flowered section. Those who can 
find space for botanical novelties will find in 

Rosa sekicka pteracantha a valuable 
Row. The effect of the huge crimson spinep 
is marvellous, and doubtless the variety blos¬ 
soms at the same time as R. serieea, which is 
just now (May 15th) opening its blossoms 
upon a warm wall together with Rcsa sinica. 

Rosa. 


ROSE SENATEUR BELLE. 

This beautiful Hybrid Tea reminds one some¬ 
what of Antoine Rivoire in its build and in 
the grand upright growths, but the form is 
not quite so globular in the half-open stage 
ns we get- in Antoine Rivoire. The fine wax- 
like petals, which render both these Roses 
so lasting when cut, are of a lovely yellowish 
hue when grown under glass, but outdoors 
the tint is salmon-flesh, with yellow shading. 
It is, without doubt, a really good sort, and 
one that deserves more notice. It is remark¬ 
able how the somewhat old sort, Antoine 
Rivoire, still holds its own. Where enn we 
match it for beauty ns a pot plant? There 
arc so many varying tints, and the flower is 
so showy and big, that one is compelled to 
admire it. 

There is, perhaps, a too great similarity 
between some of M. Pernet Dueller’s later 
introductions, but it may lie we have not 
sufficiently tried them, and we cannot see 
their points of difference in the same degree 
as-the raiser. It does not do to judge Roses 
too hastily. Rosa. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Budding v. grafting Roses, I should be much 
obliuud if you would kindly explain the difference 
between " budded ” and “ grafted " Rose-trees? Last 
autumn a firm advertised ** budded ” and “ grafted ” 
Rose-trees, those grafted being slightly higher in 
prire. I bought " grafted" ones, and they have 
grown with astonishing vigour.—K. M. II. 

[The propagation of Roses is usually ac¬ 
complished by either budding, grafting, or 
rooting cuttings. Budding is by far the mrjst 
expeditious plan, and it i.s generally adopted 
for outdoors. We know of no one who 
attempts grafting Roses outdoors. Budding 
consists, briefly, in taking an “eye” or bud 
from tlie growth of a Rose we desire to in 
crease and inserting this into a “stock’’ 
which has been planted ready for its recep¬ 
tion. The bud is inserted in the bark of the 
stock and then it is tied up tightly until 
united. Budding is done in the summer, 


when the sap is moving freely in the stock. 
Grafting is usually done in the winter. It 
consists in uniting a piece of the growth of a 
Rose on to a stock. The graft is cut wedge- 
shaped, and a similar cut made upon the 
side of the stock, then both are tied together, 
and the stock is then placed in strong heat, 
where it quickly grows. These grafted Roses, 
being from the first in pots, will make larger 
plants, if kept potted as required, than those 
budded in the open air ; and when you say 
the grafted plants you purchased had growu 
with astonishing vigour, we can only surmise 
this to l>e the result of the plants being in 
pots, which, obviously, would grow faster, 
having a hall of earth to their roots, than 
budded plants, which have no such advan¬ 
tage. It has, however, been known for 
grafted plants to die, leaving the stock, which 
is usually a Brier or Wild Rose, to grow away 
unchecked. We trust this is not the case 
with your grafted Roses. There are some 
firms of Rose growers who propagate Roses 
by winter grafting upon pieces of Brier roots, 
and when the latter are grafted, they are 
placed in sand and later on planted outdoors. 
As these would most assuredly be weaker than 
budded plants, we cannot believe your grafted 
plants were of Ibis description.] 

Rose Aglaia not flowering. — Two Roses 
planted early in IfKMJ, made considerable 
growth last summer, but did not flow»r. Thin spring 
they do not look over-vigorous. They arc on a trellis 
on the front of a house facing east, soil very gravelly, 
but other Roses do well. Is it the exposure to the 
east that is wrong?— Di mkaktossiurk. 

[This is such a vigorous growing Rose that 
unless it has abunduncu of good soil in which 
its roots may run, the growth soon becomes 
stunted. When planting such Ros -s, especi¬ 
ally where the soil is, as you say, gravelly, 
a large hole should he taken out and filled 
with good soil ; then you will see a wonderful 
growth perhaps too luxuriant. We have 
frequently observed this Rose to somewhat 
fail where too much exposed to cutting winds, 
so that it is advisable when planting to give 
it a position protected from these adverse de¬ 
tails. If you plant another at any time, ask 
for it upon its own roots, as this Rose seems 
to thrive much better in this way.] 

Rose Margaret Dickson as a standard.— 
The specimen of this Rose described by 
“ W. S.” in your issue of May 11th, must, as 
lie says, be very beautiful in full bloom. I 
have long held the opinion that these grand, 
vigorous-growing Hybrid Perpetuals might 
be made much more of than they are for 
forming large trees or bushes, and it is evi¬ 
dent that Roses on their own roots, when 
established, are the best for sueli a purpose. 
“W. 8.” asks if there are other sorts likely 
to make similar specimens, and I can assure 
him the following woi.ld develop into grand 
standards or shrubs, if treated in the same 
way as the Margaret Dickson. The sorts 
are: Clio, Crimson Queen, Anna de Dies- 
bach, Mine. Eugene Fremy, Wm. Warden, 
Mme. Clemenee Joigneaux, Mme. Joseph 
Bonnairc, Magna Cliarta, Ulrich Brunner, 
Ella Gordon, Apotheker G. Hofer, Robusta, 
Mme. Isaac Periere, Mrs. Paul, Mme. Joseph 
Combet, Princess Louise Victoria. Glory of 
Waltham, Glory of Cheshunt, Climbing Mrs. 
W. J. Grant, and Francois Croifsse.— ROSA. 

Rose Paul Transon.— It is astonishing how 
the beautiful Wichuraiana Roses adapt them¬ 
selves to pots; indeed, their blossoms under 
such culture develop to a remarkable size. 
In the ease of the Rose under notice, 
it is not uncommon to obtain flowers 
fully 3 inches across, some of them inoru 
like* Tea Roses than those of the tribe to 
which they belong. Paul Transon is of a 
buff and rose shade that is very welcome 
among so many garish colours in the Rambler 
section. In the burl state there is a pretty 
mingling of tints which makes them most use¬ 
ful for cutting, and it is one of the few varie¬ 
ties that are scented. Pillars of this Rose 
and of Rene Andre are suitable to intersperse 
among Tea Roses where the l)eds are of such 
a size that pillars would be admissible. The 
pillars need not be tall, 4 feet to 5 feet high 
being ample. If at pruning time the shoots 
be shortened to this height, they will pro¬ 
duce their blossoms lower down, and some 
of the basal growths may be retained full 
length and spread “out in a procumbent 
fashion over the bed.! — Rosa. 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAI6N 



JflNB 1. 1907 GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 177 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 

MAGNOLIA LENNEI. 

In a small plantation of Magnolias we made 
a few years ago, the flowers have been very 
fine this year, and, perhaps, a little safer 
from the attacks of frosts than-usual, owing 
to the lateness of the season. The cut here¬ 
with given is from a photograph taken on 
May 8th, after the plants had endured weeks 
of severe weather, storm, rain, and frost, and 
they still show much beauty, both in general 
effect and bloom. They are planted in 


fill it up with water, in fact—and then give no 
more water, but let the soil placed above the 
roots act as a mulch. The roots treated in 
that way are much cooler and better than if 
we water them overhead. This plan suits 
many herbaceous plants well. 

In case of a plant going out of flower with 
much loose growth, it is often well to cut it 
down when transplanting. The great thing 
is not to leave the plants to dry in the sun. 
In some cases it is an excellent plan to dip 
the plants in water immediately after raising 
them. 

At this time of the year, or later, the work 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Moving Hollies —Would you kindly tell me what 
is considered the best time to move Hollies? I heard 
some say May. Some shrubs l moved in February 
look, most of them, dead, in spite of waterings. - 
Rust levs. 

[In nurseries, where the plartts are on the 
ground, it is considered best to move Hollies 
in May. But if the plants are to be brought 
from a distance, this is an unsafe practice for 
the amateur, especially if his soil is warm 
or light. In th&t ense, September is the beet 
season, and, after planting, the plants should 
be given a light mulch of manure. In cool 
soils and where everything is ready and at 



A flowering shoot of Magnolia J^ennci. From a photograph taken on May Sth. 


rather poor sandy loam in a little valley 
slightly shaded from the morning sun, and 
have done marvellously well. 


LATE TRANSPLANTING. 

It often happens that we have to plant late 
in the season, and some plants seem to thrive 
all the better for it, particularly perennials 
transplanted after flowering. Many have the 
idea that there is only one time for planting 
each kind, but in practice we often plant when 
we can, and, if carefully done, lose nothing 
by it. A very good way is to water liberally 
the drill or cavity in which we plant almost 


should Ik* done promptly. Tn some cases 
where the leaves are soft and likely to )>e 
exhausted by the sun, it is a good plan to 
spread a few Rhubarb leaves over them for a 
week, by which time they will be well rooted. 

Among the vast numbers of things we have 
to plant in gardens there are, of course, some 
that will not submit to this treatment; but, 
as a general rule, it is often very successful. 
Bulbs we sometimes have to move in flower, 
and Narcissi, if carefully transplanted, do not 
appear to.sufTer from it. The smaller Ameri¬ 
can shrubs, with their fine holding roots, are 
among the easiest of things to move, even at 
midsummer. 


hand, and the balls an* good ones, it is safe 
to plant in May.] 

Two rich-coloured Pyruses.— A small 
Japanese tree, long known as Pyrus Mains 
floribunda, but whose correct name, accord¬ 
ing to the' Kew Hand List, is Pyrus fieri - 
hundn, is well known and generally admired. 
The spreading branches are, at this season, 
wreathed in blossoms which, before expan¬ 
sion, are of a reddish line, but. whan fully 
opened arc much paler. Half n dozen plants 
or so grouped on the Grass in such a man¬ 
ner that each plant lias sufficient space for 
its full development, is a charming way of 
growing it, the almost horizontal disposition 


URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


igitized by GOOglC 










1?8 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


June 1, 1907 


of many of the brandies being very notice¬ 
able. It is now a fairly common and well- 
known tree ; but not ho its variety atroaan- 
guinea, which surpasses the original form in 
ils depth of colouring, for even the fully- 
expanded blossoms are very brightly coloured. 
A group of this forms a most conspicuous 
feature, even at a considerable distance, the 
colour being so bright, and the flowers borne 
in euch profusion. The second of the rich- 
coloured Pyruses to mention is P. Mains 
Niedzwetzkyana (a terrible name). It is a 
native of the Caucasus, and was introduced 
about fifteen years ago, but even now is little 
known. It is somewhat Apple-like in growth, 
while the large flowers are of such an uncom¬ 
mon shade of red that, at a distance, they 
may be readily detected. Later on the ruddy 
tinge of the foliuge is very noticeable.—X. 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 

FAILURE OF HARDY PLANTS. 

If “A. H. W. E.” (May 18th, page 152) 
has been dressing his garden annually 
for Home years with partly decomposed 
matter, it is possible that a considerable 
amount of fungus has been generated. 
Grape - growers are very careful that no 
woody material is worked into the soil, for 
if it comes near enough to the surface to be 
within reach of atmospheric influences it will, 
in the course of a season or two, generate 
fungus which will throw out thread-like roots 
into the ground and wilL attack any living 
active roots with which they may come into 
contact. Your correspondent majices the mis¬ 
take of using his garden debris in a too crude 
condition. Vegetable matter must reach a 
certain period of decomposition before it can 
be of any use to growing plants. What is the 
use, then, of putting it into the ground in a 
semi-decayed condition? I grow a general 
collection of hardy plants, including alpince, 
and for a good many years have used more or 
less liberally the same kind of material de¬ 
scribed by your correspondent, and, with the 
exception of those things that demand shade, 

I find no difficulty in inducing perennial 
vigour. I make an absolute rule, however, 
of never using any until it has come into a 
condition resembling leaf mould. All the 
matter collected this season will be allowed 
to remain two years before it is put into the 
ground. It is turned over several times, so 
that the upper part of it comes to the bottom, 
otherwise decay would not be uniform. In a 
very dry summer a good soaking of water will 
hasten decomposition. 1 am quite certain 
that garden refuse employed in this way can¬ 
not be productive of harm, but, on the con¬ 
trary. is of great value for all kinds of hardy 
plants. 1 am only sorry that 1 cannot get 
more of it. The finest lot of Primula Sieboldi 
1 ever had had a liberal top-dressing of the 
material put on in the winter. There w’ere 
about one hundred plants, each one carrying 
about half-a-dozen strong trusses. During the 
last two years I have not been able to top- 
dr'es them in this way, nnd they have de¬ 
teriorated, the flower trusses being poor and 
scanty. Alpines and other things with deli¬ 
cate roots, with me, do remarkably well when 
this material is used for them—in fact, I can 
tell to an inch where it has been put. If 
“A. II. W. D.’s” garden has become infested 
with fungus, he should certainly be able to 
find traces of it in the soil as well as on the 
roots of the plants that fail. I would advise 
him to take up any planks that show signs of 
going off and examine the roots, nnd lie will 
easily see if there is any fungoid growth on 
them. In any case, I would discontinue the 
employment of garden refuse for a couple of 
years, allowing that which is being collected 
to remain as above mentioned. 

As regards artificial manure, I would make 
a complete change. I do not employ any of 
the manures mentioned by your correspon¬ 
dent. and very little dung. I rely principally 
on native guano, which I find answers admir¬ 
ably for all kinds of border flowers. In the 
case of established plants. I give' a dressing 
in the winter, so that it is washed into the 
roots by winter rains. When planting. I give 
a liberal dressing when the ground is roughly 
dug, and before it is broken down. In this 

Digitized by GOOgle 


way it is intimately mixed with the soil, and 
comes into a soluble condition by the time the 
roots are travelling freely in the soil. Your 
correspondent’s garden being so shady, I do 
not think that he will ever induce the Iris 
family to thrive, as they require a maximum 
amount of light, air, and sunshine, without 
which they are liable to fall a prey to disease. 
As regards Lilies, I should have thought that 
both L. tigrinum and L. croceum would have 
been quite happy. I have seen them thriving 
admirably in partial shade among evergreens. 
I would try them again, but this time with¬ 
out manure of any kind. Either the semi- 
decayed refuse or the too liberal addition of 
artificial manure is to blame for the failure. 
So far as I can see, there can be no other 
cause. The kind of soil of which your cor¬ 
respondent's garden is composed is comihon 
enough in this locality, and hardy plants 
generally do very well in it. 

By fleet. J. Corn hill. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Double white Narcissi failing. I shall be 
much obliged if you can tell me, through the medium 
of your paper, why my double white NurcHiei should 
damp oft in the hint? This happens every year, 
whereas the single Narcissi, which are in a bed next 
to the double, Mower profusely. The two beds are 
under the east wall of the garden, soil sandy. I 
shall he much obliged if you will tell me a remedy for 
the evil?— 8 aFOLIO. 

[The failure of the double white Poet’s 
Narcissus is more or less prevalent each year, 
and is due to a variety of causes. This Nar¬ 
cissus is a gross feeder, and, therefore, should 
be well munured. It prefers being planted 
deeply in the soil, not less than G inches, 
and preferably at 8 inches. A strong, almost 
tenacious soil is that most suited to its 
growth and flowering. In light soils, in con¬ 
junction with shallow planting, it is usually 
a failure. The bulbs are impatient of re¬ 
moval, and especially resent being dried 
off. When replanting is contemplated, this 
should bo done in July, if possible. In dig¬ 
ging in the manure—cow-manuro and soot are 
best, if your soil is light—k<*ep it 4 inches or 
G inches below the bulbs. The root-fibres of 
tliij klfid are almost perpetual in character. 
Bulbs that have stood some time and flowered 
in the same spot have impoverished the soil, 
and failure is sure to follow. In such a case 
a winter mulching of manure would be help¬ 
ful. It is not sufficiently recognised that by 
reason of its late flowering the summer is ap¬ 
proaching before the bulbs are fully ripened 
off. It is not generally known that the flowers 
that should appear in May of the present 
year are really formed and exist in embryo in 
midsummer of the previous year. It is for 
this reason that every support should be ac¬ 
corded the bulbs, so that the growing season 
may be prolonged as much as possible, there¬ 
by ensuring the fullest development and the 
proper formation of the buds at this time. 
Not a few regard the “blindness,” as this 
failing is called, as the result of the climatic 
or atmospheric conditions of the moment, but 
the true cause is, more probably, insufficient 
development in the previous year, as even 
though blind all the other parts may be good, 
and. as such, are produced by the bulb in its 
season. All you can now do is to encourage 
vigorous growth by mulching with manure, 
giving also a good dressing of soot and, at 
least, weekly applications of liquid manure.] 

Coarse weed in lawn — Enclosed I am sending a 
bit of coarse Grass with which my lawn ih covered. 
About six years ago I levelled a good portion of the 
garden, and sowed the best Grass-seeds, blit the 
lawn soon got filled lip with this Grass. Some three 
years I took it up again, added fresh soil, and bought 
some fresh Grass-seed from a local nurseryman. This 
weedy Grass began showing itself, and now my lawn 
is again spoiled. Can you suggest, anything whereby 
I can get. rid of this nuisance— i.e., can I do any¬ 
thing other than destroying the lawn again whereby 
I can get rid of it? 1 may say, I nrn almost daily 
digging up these roots, but you will understand how 
bad the lawn looks.—JOHN A. HUNT. 

[The Grass-plant you send ns belongs to a 
species of coarse growing Grasses named 
Bromus. and we fail to understand how your 
lawn has become infested with it, seeing that 
you have twice sown the plot with prepared 
Grass-seeds. Had you used turf, cut from a 
pasture, its presence could then have ensily 
been accounted for, but, as it is, we can only 
conjecture that you have made use of soil, 
perhaps, for levelling up inequalities of the 


surface, or may have given the whole plot a 
surface dressing of soil containing see’ds of 
this objectionable variety of Grass. One 
tiling is certain, mid t-bat is you could not 
have become troubled with it as a result of 
sowing lawn Grass-seeds, as seedsmen are 
most particular in supplying only such varie¬ 
ties of Grasses in mixture as will produce a 
fine even sward when fully established. We 
have had considerable experience in the for¬ 
mation of lawns, both by sowing the 6ite9 and 
in turfing them, and althougii we have been 
troubled with this Bromus when we have used 
turf, we cannot call to mind a single instance 
in which it has appeared when the lawn lias 
been sown down. Of course, w r e have always 
been very particular in freeing the soil be¬ 
fore sowing of every kind of weed and Grass, 
and this is most important. The question 
naturally arises, and w’S put it to you, as to 
whether a thorough cleaning of the plot was 
effected before you sowed the seeds the second 
time, and if you arc sure you eradicated the 
Bromus roots? When we have had this 
coarse Grass present in turf we have quickly 
got rid of it merely by frequently cutting the 
sward with the lawn mower, which soon 
causes it to perish once it is unable to grow 
and make headway, and we should have 
thought that in your case much of it would 
have suceumlied hod you kept your lawn 
closely cut. As it is now too late to do any¬ 
thing until autumn arrives, we should advise 
you to keep the surface regularly mown in 
the meantime, to prevent the coarse Grass 
gaining an ascendancy over the finer varie¬ 
ties, and to dig it out and sow the bare 
patches with new seed the last week in Sep¬ 
tember next. Be careful to see that the roots 
are got out in their entirety, using a fork for 
the purpose, and well stir nnd break the Roil 
down as finely as possible before sowing 
again. Had you written us earlier, seed 
might have been sown, and the bare places 
covered with new Grass ere now, but unless 
you are prepared to expend much time and 
labour in watering, etc., it is too risky to 
attempt sowing at this late date. Should you 
care to send us further particulars towards 
the autumn, bearing on the nature of the 
soil you have to deal with, whether well 
drained or otherwise, if manure (farmyard or 
artificial) has been used, etc., .etc., we shall 
be glad to advise you more fully.] 

Garden wallB— My garden slopes rather much 
towards the smith. Oil the north side of the north 
wall is a border about C feet wide. On the south side 
of the same wall is a border about 5 feet wide. Owing 
to the slope of the ground, and in order to level this 
south border, I edged it with a miniature brick wall, 
about i foot high. The north border slopes towards 
the wall, and I suppose the water collects tlipre—it 
is always damp and heavy. If I make holes through 
the wail, about 18 inches from the surface of the 
border, 1 fear that the water would drain through 
into the south border and he kept there by the 
miniature wall spoken of. This latter wall is only a 
few- inches in the ground. J>o you think the water 
would so collect? The soil is good loam. Would it 
he of any use to dig into the soil of the north border 
some loads of burnt garden refuse?—H. 

[Whether the water would collect in the 
way suggested depends entirely upon the 
nature of the subsoil, and of this you give us 
no idea. If, however, there is on the spot 
evidence of the water collecting at the wall, a 
drain formed of brick-rubble and clinkers be¬ 
low the level of the lower border would best 
meet the case. Burnt garden refuse is al¬ 
ways valuable for digging into the soil. If 
you find it necessary to put in the rubble 
drain, you should carry it the full extent of 
the wall, making a large hole at one end in 
a convenient spot to carry off the water.] 

Destroying slugs (T.B., Louth, Smihr). 
—Few things arc more harmless to all kinds 
of plants, and yet more destructive to slugs, 
than newly slaked lime. You should obtain 
a bushel in stone form ; then, in a very dry 
place, and best in a box, slack by sprinkling 
with water gently. So Roon as it can be 
handled, fill a large flower pot or other utensil 
with the slacked lime and dust it very freely 
where the slugs frequent. Do this at night, 
when the slugs are out in search of food. You 
can mix soot with the lime, or if you prefer, 
give a dressing of lime on one evening then 
soot two or three evenings later, following 
up the dressings for two or three weeks. You 
must persevere with the above remedies, nnd 
in time you ought to flpar the slugs out. 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




June 1, 190? 


GARDeMJTG ILLUSTRATED. 


179 



CONVOLVULUS MAJOR AND MINOR, i 


Tufted Pansies of lavender and kindred 
shades Of colour. —There never were very 
Known to seedsmen and cottager alike as j many Tufted Pansies of a lavender shade, nor 
Convolvulus major, Ipoimea purpurea, to were there many catalogued varieties of 
give it its rightful name, is certainly one of I others of allied tones of colour, such as lilac 

and blush-lilac. It may, 
therefore, interest readers 
of Gardening Illus¬ 
trated to have brought to 
their notice some of the 
better sorts that can now 
b:* had very cheaply. First 
of all we must mention 
Florizel, one of the late 
Dr. Chas. Stuart’s geni6. 
The colour is a blush-lilac, 
and the flowers are rayless. 
Another variety from the 
same source is Rosea pal¬ 
lida. also a pale blush-lilac. 
Come to Stay, when first 
distributed, was regarded 
as loo much like Florizel, 
but it is quite distinct. 
The plant is more robust, 
but we doubt whether it is 
as free as its prototype. It 
is a good thing, however, 
and the colour is a pure 
lilac. Kitty Bell is a 
strong-growing plant, and 
makes a wonderful speci- 
men in the course of a sea¬ 
son. The colour may be 
described as deep bluish- 
lilac, and the plant is a 
profuse bloomer. Jn Mary 
McLean the dainty laven¬ 
der-blue flowers make a 
fine show when a few 
plants are grouped to- 


ordinarily cold spring here, and even yet It 
is very cold, but these hardy plants are bloom¬ 
ing as freely as ever. AIL the very best are 
now marked for seed. My seedlings for next 
year are only just visible above ground (sown 
the end of March), and a real labour it is, 
taking several days’ patient work of one man, 
to overtake the weeds.—S. M. Smythe, Tobar- 
coorqn, Carnmoney, Belfast . 

Double Rockets —I have to confess a fondness 
for the two forms of the old double Rocket - Hesperia 
matronalis alba ft. pi. and purpurea-the white and 
purple blossoms that before these notes appear will 
grace not a few gardens. 1 must also admit that the 
double Rockets are less seen than formerly, and this 
is to lie accounted for owing to the fact that people 
who have to do with them sometimes omit to take 
cuttings at the proper time, and the old plants, re¬ 
maining in the borders, generally canker and die olf. 
Indeed, it is one of the conditions of successful cul¬ 
ture of the Rockets that every year should see them 
in a fresh place. A removal of any old plants that 
survive the winter, then, is essential, but the best 
display is undoubtedly ensured by propagating from 
cuttings every year.— LeahURST. 

Protecting Gypsophila panicnlata.— Disap¬ 
pointment is sometimes experienced by those who 
grow plants of Gypsophila paniculata for the first 
time in the long, promising shoots breaking off near 
the bottom in rainy and windy weather. This may 
be prevented if long stakes, such as Damboo-canes, 
are tixed, to which the growths should be tied. This 
will also prevent birds damaging them, as they some¬ 
times do. The plants, too, may be helped just now 
by feeding, and it is well to remember when staking 
that each shoot needs plenty of room, so that the 
large panicles may develop.— Townsman. 


IRIS PALLIDA VAR. TINAEI. 

The typical form of I. pallida is not so fre¬ 
quently met with as it deserves, ns it is worthy 
of a place in any collection. The leaves are 
broad and very glaucous, each about foot 
long. The flower steins overtop the leaves, 
and are several headed. The blooms are de¬ 
cidedly fragrant, of a lovely blue lilac colour, 
with a yellow beard. It is of easy cultiva¬ 


ble best known of annual climbing plants, 
and its simple cultural requirements render it 
invaluable for covering trellis, porch, veran¬ 
dah, or arbour. Though not hardy in this 
country—the plant is native of Tropical 
America—the seeds may be sown in the open 
ground in early May, or before this in warm 
soils and localities, with every hope of a good 
flowering during summer and early autumn. 
There are many varieties of the plant, and 
these include shades of blue, crimson, rbse, 
with others having striped flowers and ro 
forth. Each colour may be had Separately 
from the seedsmen who specialise in annuals. 
Convolvulus minor is of totally different 
habit, and, attaining but a foot or so in 
height, is much better suited to the border. 
The plant, too, is of a hardier nature. In 
common with the above, this may also be had 
in many distinct colours, and seeds of both 
are very cheap. The white-flowered variety 
of C. minor is shown in the illustration here¬ 
with. Ipomma rubro - cocrulea, a lovely 
climber with large sky-blue flowers, deserves 
to be more extensively grown. Seeds of this 
should be sown in pots in February or March, 
planting the seedlings out in May'in a sunny 
position. 


Google 


gether. A variety 
but little known 
is Marian .Waters. 

The plants are of 
robust growth, 
and develop freely 
the faintly-rnved 
rosy-lilac blos¬ 
soms. In the lat¬ 
ter part of the 
flowering season, 
when many other 
sorts are past 
their best, this 
variety remains 
fresh and pleas¬ 
ing. Formidable 
is an old variety 
that, flowers pro¬ 
fusely, although 
the habit is hardly 
so good ns we 
would desire. 

The colour is a pleasing soft lavender self.— 
II. N. 

Poppy Anemones. —I am sending you by this 
post a few of my St. Brigid Anemone blooms 
for your approval. We have hud an extra¬ 


Iris pallida war. Tinsei. From a photograph in the Cambridge Botanic Garden. 


tion, and is native of S. Europe and W. Asia, 
ascending to 7,000 feet oil the Atlas mountains. 
There are several garden forms, of which the 
var. Tincei (here figured) pa ( one of the best. 

E. J. Allard. 


Convolvulus minor nlbus. 















180 


June 1, 1907 


GARDEJnJYG ILLUSTRATED. 


GARDEN PESTS AND FRIENDS. 

NOTES ANB REPLIES. 

Fungus on Asparagus-roots.-1 received a 
large number of extra strong Asparagus plants two 
weeks ago. Many of the plants had a growth of 
fungus on the roots, where roots have received injury 
or were broken oir. These damaged roots, or as 
many as I could remove, I had cut off before I 
planted the new beds. Will you kindly tell me if i 
need fear this fungus spoiling the new beds, ;md if, 
in future, in buying new plants, 1 should return 
them at once to the market, gardener if any signs of 
same fungus should he on themV —C’APPOQUfN. 

[The fungus on the injured parts of the 
Asparagus roots which you sent was the com¬ 
mon mould (Pencillium glaueum), and would 
not injure the roots. If there was nothing 
else wrong with the roots the plants should be 
all right. The presence of this fungus rather 
shows that the plants had bfcen out of the 
ground for some time. If the bed dbee not 
prove a success, send up some more of the 
roots, and we will examine them again.— 
G. S. S.] 

Peas and Beans injured. —I shall be pleased to 
know the name of the three insects enclosed, and 
what I can do to destroy them? The garden is 
greutly infested by them, and they have caused a 
deal of destruction among the l'cas and Beans.— 
CORNWALL. 

[Your Peas and Beans arc attacked by the 
Pea and Bean weevil (Sitones lineatus) or 
one of the species belonging to the same 
genus. The specimen which reached me was 
so rubbed that I cannot be quite sure of the 
specific name, and there are several species 
•which injure Peas and Beans in exactly the 
same manner. Busting the plants when wet 
with finely powdered lime or soot, or :i mix¬ 
ture of both, is very useful in keeping the 
weevils from the leaves, and dilute solution 
of paraffin emulsion would have the same 
effect. As the weevils often shelter in cracks 
in the soil at the base of the plants, treading 
the earth firmly on either side of the rows 
is useful, or a dressing of soot or lime might 
be used to prevent the beetles harbouring 
there.—G. S. S.] 

Brimstone for dressing small seeds —H:ib It 
ever been known if brimstone is of any use for dress¬ 
ing small seeds, etc., to prevent them from being 
eaten by insects, snails, etc.?— Snails. 

[We have never heard of brimstone being 
used for the purpose named, and should 6ay 
that it would not have the effect of prevent¬ 
ing seedling plants from being eaten by snails, 
etc. You may, however, give it a trial, if 
you wish, as it will do no harm if the results 
are negative, as we imagine they will be. 
Brimstone, or, as it is termed when prepared 
for garden-use. flowers of sulphur, is a fine 
antidote for mildew and fungoid diseases of 
a similar nature, and when painted on hot- 
water pipes is a well known and effective cure 
for red-spider on Vines ; but, beyond acting 
as a fungicide, it has no other value, so far 
as we are at present aware, for garden pur¬ 
poses.] 

Insects in garden. I enclose specimens of two 
insects, numbers of which I find in my garden. The 
worm, I know, does no damage, but 1 uni not certain 
whether the other one is a foe. It runs along very 
quickly. Kindly state through your columns the 
names and whether they can ho destroyed?— Ajax. 

[The quick-running creature which you en¬ 
close is a 6)>ecimen of one of the centipedes 
(Bithobius forfientus). It is very useful in 
gardens, as it feeds entirely on animal mat 
ter, such as small inoceis, etc. The grub is 
one of the wireworms, the parent beetle being 
Agriotes lineatus, one of the click beetles, 
or skipjacks. You should do all you can to 
eradicate them, which is by no means an easy 
task. They may be trapp'd by burying just 
below the surface slices of Turnips or other 
roots near the plants Hint, they are attacking. 
Pieces oF oil cake are also useful, as the wire- 
worms are very fond of this.—G. S. S.] 

Fungus on Periwinkles. -Can you tell me what 
In the matter with the Periwinkles I am sending by 
this post, and how to prevent the disease from spread¬ 
ing? The disease appeared last year, and cornea here 
and there in patches, other roots close by being quite 
healthy. It affects plants in the sun and those in the 
shade. The diseased plants have hut very small and 
pale flowers, and their smell is very offensive. I am 
digging up and burning all affected plants. Soil 
light. For many years my Periwinkles have been very 
healthy and abundant.—C. K. S. 

[Your Periwinkles are infested with the 
Periwinkle rust (Puccinea vineie). You have 
done the best thing by pulling up all the 
diseased plants. If you could spray the 
leaves of the remaining plants with Bordeaux 

Digitized by GOOgle 


mixture, it would be useful, but it would not 
be easy. Continue removing any affected 
plants.—G. S. S.] 

Tomato and Pelargonium leaves, fungus on. 

— 1 enclose n few Tomato and Pelargonium leaves 
that seem to have a disease on them. I have about 
100 Tomato plants all more or less affected, and 
several hundred Pelargoniums, with odd ones just 
showing the disease. A lot of Pelargoniums in eohi 
frames is also affected. It is not the sun, for those 
in the shade are quite ns bad. It is a span-roofed 
house. Tiie temperature seldom falls lower than 
fij degs.-W. J. M. 

[The leaves you send have been attacked by 
one of the leaf-spot fungi. Cut off and burn 
the affected leaves, and spray the plants with 
Bordeaux mixture.— G. S. S.] 

The spotted snake millipede — I would be 
obliged if you could name the enclosed insects, of 
which I find a quantity in my garden? You will see 
by the enclosed Beans the way they destroy them. 
If you can advise me as to how 1 cun get rid of 
them I shall be very glad?—S. E. D. 

[Your garden is infested with one of the 
snake millipedes—the spotted snake millipede 
(Blanjulus guttulatus)—a very troublesome 
pest. They are very difficult to destroy, as 
no insecticides seem to have any effect on 
them. Where possible without injuring the 
crop, I should water the rows with boiling 
water, just breaking up the surface of the 
soil a little so as to allow the water to soak 
in rapidly. When the. crop is off, I should 
lightly fork in a good dressing of lime. They 
may lie trapp'd by burying small slices of 
Votatoes, Turnips, Mangels, Carrots, etc., 
just below the surface near the roots of any 
plant that they are attacking. Stick a small 
wooden skewer into each to show where it is 
hidden, and examine the traps every morning. 
Keeping the surface of the soil well hoed is 
very distasteful to them, and will kill many. 

- G. S. S.J 

The Turnip-flea I enclose several specimens of 
the smalT beetle or fly with which the soil of t wo of 
my Turnip-beds is swarming. Will you kindly tell 
me ns soon as possible if there is any chance of sav¬ 
ing the Turnips (their leaves arc covered with spots, 
otherwise they look healthy), or is it. safer to destroy I 
them? In that case, how can 1 protect the crops | 
growing in the neighbourhood of the Turnips?— j 
Cripps. 

[The little beetles you forwarded are com¬ 
monly known as Turnip-fleas, Turnip-beetles, 
or black jack. In the case of an attack by 
this insect, it is always advisable to push the 
young plants into rapid growth by watering, 
if that be required, or the use of manure. A 
very simple means of catching them is to 
nail a strip of canvas a foot or more in width 
and newly painted with white paint, so as to 
be quite sticky, to a lath ; then drag the free 
edge of the canvas over the leaves. This will 
alarm the beetles, nnd they will spring into 
the air and Ik; caught in the paint. Dusting 
with fine road dust or fine soil when tin* leaves 
are wet is very useful, or you might spray 
the bed with paraffin emulsion.—G. S. 8.] 

Asters failing -I enclose you three Aster-plants, 
and 1 should he obliged if you could tell me what is 
the matter with them? These are now in n cold- 
frame, but quantities of my Asters die away each 
year after they are put out, nnd even when they are 
quite large plants, almost flowering.—(). S. W’ynnb. 

[Your plants have been attacked by a fun¬ 
gus that has during the past few years given 
a lot of trouble. Unfortunately, there is no 
remedy, and, indeed, any help must b; in the 
way of preventive measures, for the moment 
the plant is attacked by the fungus the latter 
encompasses the whole plant, and so per¬ 
meates the stem and tissues that the plant 
is virtually dead the moment of the attack. 
The Aster, moreover, appears peculiarly 
liable to these attn< ks, the dwarf leafy 
growth, the close association of leaves with 
the earth, all helping the pest to do its 
deadly work. All you can do is to avoid late 
watering, and particularly sprinklings of 
water that wet the lowest foliage and remain 
long damp. The only possible preventive is 
to syringe with sulphur—black sulphur for 
preference. Take a double handful of this, 
mix gradually with soft water into a thick 
mustard like paste, then add more water by 
degrees. This will lx; sufficient for three 
gallons of water, which should be boiling, or 
nearly, for the mixing. Dissolve two large 
tablespoonfuls of soft-soap, mix all together, 
and spray the plants at ihc base especially 
not later than 4 p.m. In planting another 
year remove a few of the very lowest leaves, 
and early (lust about, the plants and stems 
some freshly air slaked lime.] 


CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

SEASONABLE HINTS. 

A collection of Chrysanthemums may be 
made, or marred, 60 to speak, at this sea¬ 
son. The grower may have succeeded with 
his plants very well until now, but there is 
always a danger of being over generous, or 
possessing a desire to coddle the plants, just 
at a time when full advantage should be taken 
of genial, growing weather to promote their 
well-being. Full exposure to the sun is im- 
jx'rative at. this period, and if this can lx? com¬ 
bined with a free, circulation of air through 
tli? plants, no better treatment could possibly 
be given to them. At this time of the year 
the plants are usually in 5-inch or 6-inch pots, 
and, if properly tended, should lx; ready for 
the final shift within a week or two. But 
with so many other things to do in the gar¬ 
den in the early summer, the Chrysanthe¬ 
mums do not always get the attention that 
they require. It is worth while, therefore, 
to see that the plants are not left in an out*of- 
the-way place, and only given just sufficient 
attention to keep them moving. All plants 
in 5 inch and 6 inch pots (especially the taller 
and weaker growing ones) should have the 
support of small stakes. Keep the stem of 
the plant perfectly upright, and to ensure 
this, securely, but not tightly, tic the stem to 
the stake. Keep a sharp look out for green¬ 
fly, and if this pest, ap|>ears, dust the points of 
the shoots with Tobacco powder. Insect posts 
are less likely to lx; troublesome when the 
plants are given a good open position. It is 
a distinct advantage to stand the pots on 
some cool substance, so long as ingress of 
worms can be prevented. Wo prefer sifted 
ashes or coke breeze to anything else. Slates, 
tiles, and other cool material may lx; used, 
and boards as a last resource only. Keep 
the surfaiM; soil in the pots free from weeds. 
Give each plant plenty of room, so that its 
foliage may develop without let or hindrance. 
For this reason spac:; out the plants from 
time to time. Arrange the plants in squares 
w’ith a given number in each. The square 
should be of a size that the grower can work 
all round it and tend the plants in the centre 
without inconvenience. It is a good plan to 
arrange the plants alternately so that no one 
plant overshadows the one immediately be¬ 
hind it. The proper observance of these 
simple, though, apparently, insignificant, de¬ 
tails contributes very considerably to the 
grower’s ultimate fineness. 

Preparations should be made for the final 
potting without further delay. Do not put 
this off until the plants actually need it, as 
this often results in the work being indif¬ 
ferently done. Get good fibrous loam, and 
chop it up into pieces about the 6ize of a 
Walnut. Well decomposed leaf-mould and 
horse-droppings, prepared as for a Mushroom- 
bod, are indispensable. Bone-meal in a 
limited quantity and some well-known reliable 
fertiliser should also be acquired. Coarse 
silver sand will also be needed. Clean pots 
and crocks are essential for the final potting. 
Old pots should l>* washed clean, and the 
crocks should receive the same treatment. 
New pots should never lx; used just as they 
come from the pottery, as they are so porous 
that, they would quickly alworb the moisture 
from the soil, to the great disadvantage of the 
plant. Always soak new pols in cFan water 
for some time before use ; then allow them 
to get perfectly dry before using them. 
Watering is important at this season. Soi^e 
or the earliest struck plants have already 
fairly well filled their pots with roots, and, 
in consequence, need to lx; looked over twice 
a day at Fast. The more vigorous growing 
plants will need watering twice or three times 
each day when the weather is hot and dry. 
Any plant, that g?ts very dry through an 
oversight should be watered two or three 
times in quick succession, and not left until 
the grower is quite satisfied that, the whole 
ball of fioil and roots is thoroughly saturated. 
In the late afternoon of hot days the plants 
will appreciate a syringing overhead with 
dean water. 

‘ Plants of the decorative varieties are now 
mnking nice bushy little specimens, and this 
bushy character may lx; still further improved 
by pinching oujfc the points of the shoots. 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAI&N 


JUKE 1, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


181 


Each succeeding 6 inches of growth may be 
pinched, and this will induce other growths 
to break from the axils of the leaves im¬ 
mediately below. The last pinching for a 
mid-season display in the midlands and the 
south should be done at the end of June, but 
in the case of growers in the north this 
should be done from a week to ten days 
earlier. _ E. G. 

INDOOR PLANTS. 

PINGUICULA CAUDATA. 

I treat this exactly os P. grandiflora and 
our pretty little wilding, except that it is pro¬ 
tected from frost. I grow it in stiff loam, 
mixed with peat-Moss litter, covered with 
Sphagnum, and kept wet during the growing 
period. It is grown in a seed-pan placed in a 
saucer. The plant figured was a single bulb 
last year at this time. There are now- 
four crowns, which have had eight blooms, 
besides one plant placed in another pot. One 
of the crowns, separated from the others, had 
four blooms; a group of three bore four 
blooms. The blossoms measure 13 inches in 


GARDEN WORK. 

Conservatory. —If there are bare walls or 
pillars anywhere in the conservatory, the 
house is not- properly furnished. Among the 
plants which may be used either temporarily 
or permanently are Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums, 
Heliotropes, Fuchsias. The semi double 
Pelargonium Raspail will bloom freely well 
on into the winter, and the flowers are useful 
for cutting, and a few old plants set out ill 
the conservatory are useful for supplying cut¬ 
tings. Among the annuals which may be use¬ 
ful as temporary coverings for walls and 
pillars arc Tropieolum Fireball and T. 
Meteor. Maurandya Barclay an a grows and 
flowers freely, and is light and graceful when 
not tied in too closely. Thunbergia alata, if 
kept free from red-spider by frequent syring- 
ings, will give a colour which is rather un¬ 
common among climbers. The variegated 
Cobica scandens is a very useful climber for 
a lofty house where it can ryn up into the 
roof and festoon about. Browallia Jame- 
soni, now in flower, is a very beautiful wall 
plant, and it makes neat little standard plants 



Pi ngui cula caudata. From a photograph by Mr. W. T. L'ash ford, Portobello, N.D. 


diameter, and are of a deep crimson when 
first expanded, the colour changing to a rich 
pink in about three weeks. The subject of 
the illustration has had blooms for two 
months in a photographic studio into which 
no direct sunlight enters. As soon as the 
blossoms fall I place the pan in a cold-frame 
exposed to all the sun available. This, I 
hope, will encourage growth of foliage and 
large storage in the bulbs. As the leaves die 
off the soil will be kept less wet, and merely 
damp through the winter months. Towards 
spring I hope to have quite a nice little colony 
to separate and replant. 

Portobello, N.B. W. T. Bashford. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Genista fragrans alter blooming (F. Epps).— 

This should be cut back immediately it lias done 
flowering and when the young shoots produced after 
pruning are from 1 inch to h inch long the plants 
should be repotted, after which kept close for a time 
until they begin to grow, when they may be stood 
on a coal-ash bed in the open air ami well attended 
to with water during the summer. Take the plants 
indoors early in the autumn, keeping them in an airy 
house and well up to the gla^ Take particidnl care 
that they are not allowed In gcUdrb- at (fill Liiifs. 
You will find an article on 1 binman¬ 

ias " in our issue of December 1st, 1006, p- 


| in 6-ineli pots. It will be found useful out- 
of-doors in summer, now that there is a de¬ 
mand for standard plants in the flower gar¬ 
den. Zonal Pelargoniums for winter flower¬ 
ing may lie shifted into 5-inch pots and stood 
on a coal ash-bed outside, and carefully 
watered, all flower-buds to be pinched off dur¬ 
ing summer. The plants may have a shift 
into 6-inch pots later if they appear to be 
pot-bound, but do not overpot, or there may 
lie trouble if the watering is carelessly done. 
Do not keep any plant ip the conservatory 
now which has no decorative value. Many of 
the old Salvias and other soft-wooded plants, 
after a stock of cuttings has been rooted, may 
be thrown on the rubbish-heap, as young 
plants well grown are better for winter flower- 
ing. Wo h ave found Eupatorium odoratissi- 
muin very useful in winter, and in this case old 
plants, if pruned back and planted out in an 
open position, will, if potted up again in Sep¬ 
tember and stood in the shade for a few days, 
do good work next winter. Cinerarias, both 
dwarf and tall varieties, sown thinly now in 
boxes and given cold-frame treatment, will 
flower early next winter. Primulas are, or 
should be, sown a little earlier, as they re¬ 
quire more time. If pot already attended to, 


double Primulas should be top-dressed with 
chopped Moss, peat, and sand, to induce the 
formation of roots, so that when divided by- 
and-bye, there may be little rooted plants 
ready for potting. 

Shrubs for next winter's forcing.— Lilacs 
are indispensable for forcing. Some growers 
make a specialty of these. One of the best 
for forcing is Marie Lcgraye, as it forces 
easily ancl flowers very freely. These for 
forcing are now grown in pots, and when good 
plants specially prepared for the work may 
be bought for 12s. to 18s. per dozen, it may, 
jxrhaps, prove a waste of time for the gar¬ 
dener with his hands full of other matters to 
grow them himself. There are certain things 
which the specialist can do better than the 
general practitioner. At any rate, if grown 
at home these should be grown in pots, and 
their wants during summer carefully attended 
to. Among other shrubs which force well are 
bush Honeysuckles—Weigelas. These may 
bo planted out after forcing, and the best of 
them may bo lifted in the autumn. Eva 
Rathke flowers very freely under this treat¬ 
ment. Deutzias after flowering may be cut 
back and encouraged to grow freely under 
glass, and when the wood is getting a little 
firm turned out, to ri|>en. Rhododendrons of 
the Indian section should l>e treated like the 
Indian Azaleas, and they will flower annually, 
but ordinary Rhododendrons may be lifted 
from the beds in autumn, and after flowering 
can be planted out again and the best planks 
selected for the following season, as the same 
plants will not, as a rule, flower freely every 
year after forcing. There are useful forcing 
stuff among the Primuses, double-flowered 
Plums, Almonds, and Peaches, and, for the 
most part, these should Ik? pot grown and 
planted out in summer. 

Crowding plants in the stove. We shall 
soon be able to do without fires in the cool 
stove, and, in order to relieve this house, a 
small house may be converted into a tem¬ 
porary stove for growing on young stuff for 
next winter’s flowering. The house should 
be attached to a heating apparatus, though 
it need not lx? used unless we have a cold 
spell and the thermometer falls below 60 degs. 
Here there should be no crowding and pinch¬ 
ing, if the young shoots break away, may Ik? 
done, if necessary. Of course, such plants as 
Poinsettias will not be pinched. When the 
stove has been relieved of part of its stock, 
justice can be done to those plants which re¬ 
main. Young specimens can be potted on 
and their arrangement may be thinned so 
that light may reach every part, as in no other 
way can good specimens lx? grown. By and- 
bye a few flowering plants may be taken to 
the conservatory. Do not shade Crotons and 
Dracaenas much, or they will not colour well. 

Late Peach-house. —Do not. overcrowd the 
young shoots, but those left should Ik? in the 
right position for filling the trees with bear¬ 
ing wood. A leader there must lx, of course, 
to each bearing branch, or the fruits will 
not swell, but if necessary the leaders may 
be stopped when a foot or so of growth has 
been made. There must also be a good shoot 
to lay in near the base. These constitute the 
real necessities of the case. Other shoots 
may be left for a time, if there is room. All 
sublaterals on established trees should Ik? re¬ 
moved promptly. In thinning the fruits leave 
those intended to remain finally on the upper 
side of the trellis where the sun can shine 
fully upon them. Give air freely, so that 
the foliage may be hardy and able to resist 
the attacks of red-spider, as these little pests 
are only really troublesome to soft, flabby 
foliage. 

Pines cannot be grown without bottom- 
heat. I remember a house Ixing built to test 
the question whether bottom-heat was really 
necessary provided the top-heat was suitable, 
but plunging beds had afterwards to be im¬ 
provised lxfore the plants did well. All 
through the season of growth the roots must 
have warmth. I have kept plants carrying 
ripe fruit for several weeks in summer in a 
cool fruit-room, but then, of course, their 
work had been done, - ., r 

In the rooms flowering plants are not so 
much in demr.nd now. Graceful foliage is 
more sought after, and." now Inal the electric 
light h, in many houses, taking the place of 



182 


GARDENING ILLU1STRATED, 


June 1, 19G7 


* 

gas, llie plants last much longer ill a thriving 
condition. Largo Kentias, if watered care¬ 
fully and foliage sponged or rubbed with a 
dry, soft clolh, to remove dust, will last for 
years, but if the pots are ful| of roots a little 
liquid stimulant will be useful now. 

Fruit garden. —The recent heavy rains 
have benefited the fruit trees,' both roots and 
branches, and all that is wanted now is 
warmth and sunshine to hasten growth. Dis¬ 
budding, where necessary, can be done with 
( safety, as although we may have a little more 
frost, it is not likely to seriously injure our 
fruit prospects. Strawberries look promis¬ 
ing. and where the ground has been well 
mulched, the plants, after the heavy rainfall 
we have had recently, are not likely to suffer 
from drought. Of course, shallow, badly- 
worked land soon dries, but that is the fault 
of the cultivator who does not put sufficient 
labour into the land and manures too spar¬ 
ingly. The most intelligent cultivators are 
becoming alive to the fact that good fruits 
cannot be grown without lil>eral treatment. 
Top-dress and keep the roots near the warm 
surface. Of course, some of the roots will go 
down after moisture, but the best fibres will 
remain where the food is placed on the 
surface. 

Vegetable garden. Keep down weeds by 
frequent hoeing. Thin all seedling plants be¬ 
fore they are drawn up weakly by overcrowd¬ 
ing. Good Beet can lie obtained by trans¬ 
planting if the work is carefully done, mak¬ 
ing the holes deep enough for the long-rooted 
kinds to go straight down. I have never 
transplanted any hut long-rooted kinds, and, 
as a rule, these make handsome, medium- 
sized roots when transplanted. To have 
plenty of Marrow Peas in July and August, 
sow several kinds during the next two or 
three weeks. There is plenty of good Peas 
suitable for sowing now: Autocrat, Ne Plus 
Ultra, and, among the older kinds, Veitch’s 
Perfection is still reliable. Draw drills 
G inches wide and 4 inches deep. Place the 
Peas in the drills bv hand, from 3 inches to 
4 inches apart, and in covering leave the site 
of the rows a little hollow, to collect mois¬ 
ture, and when some growth has been made, 
mulch with half decayed stable manure. Sow 
Lettuces in small quantities fortnightly. A 
6mall sowing of Endive may be made now, 
and Turnips sown more freely. 

‘ E. Hobday. 

THE COMING WEEK'S WORK. 

Extracts from a Garden Dianj. 

June 3rd.— The principal work just now is 
filling the bedtt with the summer-flowering 
things. The soil is, after the rain, reason 
ahlv moist, and the plants will soon got 
established. Boards are used in planting to 
avoid treading the ground, though in the beds 
which have been recently cleared of spring 
flowers a good treading is given when the 
surface is dry to firm the ground a little. We 
have several beds that will be left till about 
the middle of the month, or luter, for sub 
tropical plants. Sowed Lettuces and 
Endives. 

June Jfth. Marrow Peas are being sown 
freely now for late bearing. We shall sow 
twice during this month, and at the end of 
the month second earlies will be sown, and 
in July sow the earliest varieties we have, oil 
the chance of their doing well. Peas sown 
after June are more or less uncertain. A 
second sowing of Runner Beans has been 
made ; also one of dwarf Kidney Beans. 

June 5th .— Potted the last batch of Tube¬ 
roses. These will come on in a cold-frame 
quietly ; not much water will be given for a 
time. Earlier potted plants are now throw¬ 
ing up flower-spikes. We only grow the 
American varieties. We never syringe 
Grapes after they are growing freely, but 
atmospheric moisture is maintained by damp¬ 
ing floors, etc. Liquid-manure is given freely 
to Grapes and Peaches until ripening begins. 
All sublaterals are removed when small. 

June Gth .— Planted early Celery in trenches. 
Late Cauliflowers are planted in various 
positions, some on the north side of a wall. 
Sowed Cinerarias and Calceolarias. Potted 
off Streptocarpus j^Stilings in pjat, loam, 
and sand. Planted! out 4hfc la ;l®f bulbs 
which have flowere(^4fl pots. JrtpaNip Let¬ 


tuces. Made up several Mushroom beds in a 
shady spot on the north side of a building, 
as we generally find the beds do well in this 
position, 

June 7th. Weeds are giving trouble, and 
are being dealt with at every favourable op¬ 
portunity. Potatoes are earthed up in good 
time. The late varieties, a few only being 
grown, are sometimes gone over a second time, 
to leave a sharp ridge. If more stems than 
two are shown all above that number are re¬ 
moved, as tlie more stems the smaller the 
Potatoes. We are still using a little Tobacco- 
powder on wall-trees. 

June 8th. We have still some bedding out 
to do. We are waiting for settled weather. 
The middle of the month is usually time 
enough to plant out Begonias and tender sub- 
tropicals. The Peach borders have been 
mulched, to save watering. Inside borders of 
early vineries have been covered with long 
litter, to check evaporation and keep down 
dust. Wo should do more mulching of fruit- 
trees if the manure supply were larger, but we 
make the most of it. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

Carnations dying (Carnalion ).—From the speci¬ 
mens you sent we find that they ure infested with 
the “stem eel-worm” (Tylenehus devastatrix). If 
you cut open the growth just where the leaves spring 
from you will find that the centre is decayed. If 
you examine this part under a microscope you will 
find these little worms. To prevent the pest spread¬ 
ing we should advise you to burn every infested 
plant. 

The growths of Moss Roses (Dumbartonshire). 

— There are a great many varieties of Moss Roses in 
cultivation, and they vary considerably in the colour 
of the wood and the quantity of thorns. It is quite 
possible that the variety you have received is a Moss 
Rose. You can tell better a little l^er, when the 
young wood has developed, as this has, in most eases, 
quite a peculiar aromatic fragrance in leaf and shoot. 
Please send us a piece of the wood and foliage, with 
a bloom, if possible, and wfe will try and give you its 
name. 

Aspidistra falling (.-Is/m/w fra).— What the cause 
may he is only conjecture on our part. The drainage 
may he in a bad state, the soil may be too wet. or 
too dry, or it. may lie unsuitable. We would advise 
you to examine the plant, and if any of the above 
are the cause, then you should at once repot it, 
clearing away the major portion of the old soil from 
the roots. Aspidistras ran be kept iu good health 
for years in comparatively small pots, provided tho 
roots are kept healthy. If you decide to repot, use 
two-thirds loam to one-third peat or leaf-mould, with 
a good sprinkling of coarse silver-sand. Be careful 
with the water-pot until you And the roots are run¬ 
ning freely in the new soil. 

Unhealthy Palms (T.).— Naturally, it. is difficult 
to tell you why your Palms turn yellow, as we have 
no information ns to the conditions under which they 
are grown. If the Palms arc in a room, is gas burned 
iu it? That they dislike. Have they been stood in 
pots or vases, partially in water? That is very in¬ 
jurious. Possibly the roots may be over dry,and they 
would suffer in that way. If so dry they need to he 
occasionally stood in a pail of water lo get. thoroughly 
soaked. Perhaps the leaves and stems require a 
good cleansing with soft, tepid water and yellow 
soap. Perhaps the plants are pot-bound and need 
shifting into larger pots. Thus, you see. there are 
several possible reasons, but we cannot, from want of 
informat ion, say which is the true cause. 

Bulbs (Perfect Novice). —It you desire to reduce 
certain kinds you must or necessity lift them, other¬ 
wise. provided the plants are quite healthy, they 
would increase, and thus defeat the object you have 
in view. Your better plan will be to mark with a 
stick any of the clumps of bulbs you wish to reduce, 
and when the foliage has died down in July lift the 
bulbs and discard what you wish. The Crocuses and 
the Snowdrops will he best if left alone. We take it 
that, by increasing, you wish to add other bulbs to 
those you now possess by a fresh purchase in the 
autumn, as it is not likely that in one season there 
will be any increase of roots sufficient to make use of 
in that way. If this is not the correct, view of the 
matter, write again and give more particulars. We 
regret your letter has been overlooked. 

Azalea indica after flowering (F. Epps).— After 
Azaleas have done floworing growth recommences at 
once, and to encourage this the plants should be 
frequently syringed. They may at this period have 
a.dose of weak soot-water about once a fortnight. 
The plants should by midsummer bt* stood out-of- 
doors in order that the wood be thoroughly ripened, 
as a good deal of the future display of bloom depends 
upon this. Take great care that the plants do not 
suffer from want of water when out-of-doors. Re¬ 
move under cover when there is any danger from 
autumn frosts. If the plants need repotting it 
should be done when the flowering is over, but 
Azaleas will grow and bloom well for years without 
being disturbed at the roots. Any straggling shoots 
may he cut back, but do not prune more than is 
necessary, as the less cutting the better will be the 
show of blossoms. 

The Prophet-flower (Arnebia echioides) 
park ).—There are three w’ays of increasing this in¬ 
teresting and beautiful plant—by seeds, by division, 
and by root-cuttings. The plant you refer to may at 


the present time be increased by division, which 
must be done with great care, besides giving the 
plants frequent attention subsequently. To be suc¬ 
cessful when dividing the plants it is necessary to 
first wash away all the soil from the roots, so as to 
enable the operator to see how to act. Usually, each 
crown growth of the plant cun, with a sharp knife, 
be detached with roots, and if each division be 
planted firmly, well up to the base of the leaves, 
with some sharp sand about each plant, there will 
not be much trouble after, provided the young 
plants are shaded and watered for a time. If you 
do not care to risk the plant now for division, you 
might probably secure a few dozen seeds during the 
year by careful watching. The good seeds are by 
no means numerous, and usually not more than one 
is found at the base of any flower. Still, they are 
worth looking after. The other method -i.e., from 
root-cuttings, is best performed in winter, and would 
not succeed at this time. We will refer to it fully 
at a seasonable time. Meanwhile, if only a few 
plants are required, we strongly advise careful divi¬ 
sion of the roots, as above. 

TREKS AND SHRUBS. 

Lilacs not flowerinft (Miss F. White).— No, do 
not destroy the Lilacs. The failure to bloom may be 
due to the plutds being crowded up with thin, weak 
shoots, which are never sufficiently strong to flower. 
This is very often caused by a crop of suckers, which 
will soon deprive tlie tops of a good deal of nourish¬ 
ment. Cut away the suckers, if there are any, and 
thin out the weak, exhausted shoots to allow sun and 
air to have free play. This advice is given subject 
to the roots being in fairly good soil, but if the 
staple is poor, then a top-dressing of well-decayed 
manure will be beneficial with, if the weather is dry 
and you find that the roots are dry, a good soaking 
of water occasionally during the summer. 


SHORT REPLIES. 

A. P. D. -Form a bed round the plants you refer to. 
The Grass will so rob the ground that the plants will 

take a long time to become established.- C. M. U\ 

—1, You say nothing as to where you write from, 
but, in any case, we should, advise you to plant 
against a wall, and shade for a time during the heat 
of the day, until the plants get established. 2. Your 
best plan is to make a fire and burn up all the 

leaves.- Niello. (let Hobday's “Villa Gardening’’ 

or Johnson's “Gardener's Dictionary."- Ifherttood. 

— I’hyllostaehys viridi-glaucescens and 1*. llenoiiis are 
quite distinct. We do not know P. flexuosa. There 
is P. fastuosa, also distinct. Arundinaria nitfda and 
A. nobilis are also quite distinct. For descriptions of 
the above sec "The English Flower Garden," under 

the heading “ Bamboos.”- Mary F. Sharp. -The 

soil in which the Stocks are being grown has evid¬ 
ently been allowed to get very dry. Wc can find no 
signs of any disease on the plants you send.— 
F. Epps. For the destruction of green-fly use X. L. 
All vaporiser, carefully following the directions sent 

with the insecticide.- Miss Bateman. 1, Your Pear- 

tree leaves have been attacked by the Pear-leaf 
blister mite. Sec reply to “ Ajax.” in our issue of 
May 25th, p. Bin. 2, The Apple-shoot you send is 
suffering from “canker,” while wc also found some 
American blight on it.—— F. C. Wood. — 1, No; far 
better purchase some strong plants from a nursery¬ 
man in vour neighbourhood. 2, All depends upon the 
size of the bulbs. You can buy bulbs so cheaply that 
we should not hesitate to destroy those you refer to. 

----Enquirer.—The piece of Apple shoot you send is 
a mass of American blight and canker, and the best 
thing you can do with the tree is to at once dig it 
up and burn it.--Miss F. ll/n'G*.—Tulips arc very 
much given to sporting, and it may be that this is 
the case with yours. Again, it may he that this is 
caused through the soil. Do you leave them in the 

ground year after year?- Carnal ion- The failure of 

the Gloxinia is due to green fly, which we found on 
the leaves yon send.* 


NAMES OP PLANTS AND FRUITS. 

Names of plants - A. E. W. R- Anemone nlpina. 

- J. Crook. — 1, Erica carnea; 2, Ixia var.- 

GU'iiart .—The Snowdrop-tree (Halesia tetraptera).- 

E. C. B. Without flowers and foliage it is impos¬ 
sible to sav what the plant to which you refer may 

he.- Braxton .-Wallflower Sutton's Eastern Queen. 

f». M. D. I. Stcllaria Holostea. 2. Saxifraga 
Cymhalaria, evidently. 3, Specimen insufficient. It is 
impossible to name correctly as you send ns no com¬ 
plete specimens—i.e., specimens with matured leafage. 

- J. B. Wallis.— Dog's Mercury <Mercuriulis peren- 

nls).-Erin.—1, Dactyl is glomerata variegata: 2, 

Habrothanimis elegans; 3,Phileaia buxifolia; 4,Spurge 

Laurel (Daphne Laureola).- May Elwell.—), Akcbia 

quinata.- P. Bicknell .—One of the Puff-balls (Lyco- 

perdon) in a young slate.- Caragh .—Please send us 

fully-developed flowers and also a root, and then we 

will do our best to help you.- Mrs. Batlcy .-The 

Dense Cluster-flowered Jacob's Ladder (Polemonium 

confertum).- Rusticus. - The Missouri Currant 

Ribes aureum).- A. L- 1, Narcissus poeticus var.; 

2, Spiraea prunifolia; 3, Silver Weed (Potentilla an- 

serina): 4, The Blue Daisy (Agathca ccelcstm).- 

V. M. B .—The Pigeon’s Beak Lotus (Lotus peliorrhyn- 
chus). 

Name of fruit.— Nr*. E. M.A.Hodson .-Evidently 
small fruits of Apple Annie Elizabeth. 

v 


Catalogue received.-, lohn Pigeott, Ltd., 117 and 

118, Cheapside .—List of Goods. 


Index to Volume XXVIII. -The binding rovers 
(price Is, 6d, earh, post free. Is. f>d.) and Index (Sd., 
post. freeHHd.) for Volume XXVUI are now ready, 
and may be had of all newsagents, or of the Pub¬ 
lisher, post free. Ss. (or the two. 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


No. 1,474.— Vol XXIX. 


Founded by W. Robinson, Author of " The English Floicer Garden.' 


JUNE 8, 1907. 


INDEX. 


Apple-trees, American 
Plight on 

Apple trees,caterpillars 

injuring. 

Apple twigs failing 

Auriculas. 

Beans, French 
Berberia Darwini 
Broccoli, Purple Sprout¬ 
ing . 

t^mlle-plant (Oacalia 
articulata), the 
Cheiranthus mutabilis.. 
Chrysanthemums 
Chrysanthemums—new 
early-flowering singles 
Chrysanthemums — soil 
for final potting 
Conservatory 


187 

194 

190 

183 

185 


192 

m 

188 


Daffodils in London 
and suburban gardens, 
popularity of the .. 183 
Eucalyptus failing .. 194 
F.ureka-pai>er. value of 187 
Ferns, baskets of, in¬ 
doors .193 

Ferns under glass .. 193 
Fir-trees, injury to .. 18d 

Fruit .186 

Fruit garden .. .. 193 

Fruit-trees, mulching .. 1S6 
Garden diary, extracts 

from a.193 

Garden pests and 

friends.186 

Garden work .. .. 193 

Gardens, hedgehogs in 190 
Geraniums (Crane's Bill) 189 


Gooseberry - biuhca, 

spots on.187 

Grapes, late .. 186 

Grapes, thinning late .. 193 

Hoyabella .. .. 192 

Indoor plants .. 192 

Insect, eggs of .. .. 186 

Iris Germanica, a white 191 

Laburnum (.Soph ora to t- 
raptera), the New 

Zealand.185 

Laurel (Kalmia lati- 
folia), the Mountain.. 194 
Lilacs, propagating .. 191 
Loosestrife, the Rosy .. 191 
Mazus (Mazua Pumiiio), 
the dwarf .. .. 191 

Mint failing .. .. 191 

Nicjtiana Sandene .. 192 


Narcissi, growth and 
increase of the rarer.. 183 
; Oak-tree, mites in .. 186 

Outdoor garden .. .. 193 

Outdoor plants .. 189 

Pansies, Tufted, for the 
flower garden, the 

best .191 

, Peaches, ripenin? .. 193 

Peas not growing .. 191 

Pentstemon Cohjea and 

others.191 

Pines, moths injuring .. 186 
Plants and flowers .. 187 
Plants in cottage win¬ 
dows .188 

Plants for damp comer 194 

I Polyanthuses at Forde 

Abbey.190 


Potato growing In 

Yorkshire.—II. .. 1$3 

Primroses.189 

Primula Sieboldi not 
flowering .. 192 

Purple Wreath (Petnea 
volu bilis), the .. 192 

Pyrns Tschonoski .. 185 
Raspberry-beetle, the .. 186 
Red-spider in fruit- 

houses .186 

Room and window .. 188 
Rose Claire .laoquior .. 137 
Rose combination for an 
arch, a pretty .. .. 187 

Ro*e Gustave Gmner- 

wald .187 

Rose Queen of Spain .. 187 
Roses .. .. 187 


Shallots turning yellow 194 
Shrubs, flowering, for 

cutting.188 

Slime on ponds .. .. 190 

Slugs, a plague of .. 194 
St. Mark's-fly, the .. 187 
Stove plants .. 193 

Sweet Peas dying off .. 194 

Tomatoes, black spot 

on.181 

Tomatoes in boxes .. 183 
Trees ami shrubs .. 185 
Tulip Golden Spire .. 189 
Vegetable garden .. 193 
Vegetables .. .. 183 

Violettas in the early 

spring.191 

Wallflowers .. 191 

Week's work, the coming 193 


GROWTH AND INCREASE OF THE 
RARER NARCISSI. 

In answer to a query from a correspondent 
to tlie b°et way to grow the better kinds 
of Daffodils, Messrs. Barr and Sons have 
kindly s-ent us the following notes : — 

First, select a situation sheltered From cut¬ 
ting ground winds ; for preference, one fac¬ 
ing west, but not closed in too much, as 
Daffodils, like most other spring bulbs, de¬ 
light in shelter from cutting winds, but must 
have a free circulation of air. Deep, loamy 
soil suits the Daffodil best. If the ground is 
very stiff and liable to cake in the early sum¬ 
mer, then dig in a liberal supply of old leaf 
soil, if procurable, with a little lime if the 
soil is lacking in same. The surface of the 
ground is always best raised a little above 
the general level, to ensure perfect drainage. 
On light sandy soil dig in a little topspit 
loam and old leaf 6oil, also lime. Plant as 
early as possible in the autumn, August or 
September being the best time. If the ground 
is very dry at time of planting the growth 
will be greatly assisted by watering the open 
bed or trench at time of planting, but do not 
water after filling in the soil on top of the 
bulbs. Plant from 3 inches to 4 inches deep 
—not deeper. If the ground is of a good 
loamy nature, the bulbs may be left two or 
three years without lifting, then lift, sepa¬ 
rate, and transplant as soon ns possible. Do 
not lift the bulbs until the foliage has turned 
yellow or died down. The season for lifting 
is nbout the end of June or early July. Never 
lift while the foliage is green. ‘After lifting, 
carry the bulbs at once to a cool, airy shed, 
where there is plenty of ventilation, or they 
may l>e left in the field in trays in the shade, 
but on no account must the newly-lifted 
bulbs be exposed to the sun. In some soils it 
is often ns well to lift annually. It is im¬ 
possible to lay down any hard-and-fast rule, 
as one must judge by the quality of the 
growth and flowers. If it is noticed that the 
flowers are dwarf and poorer the second year, 
then tlie “bulbs are best lifted and replanted. 
If bulbs are planted late in the season, they 
should be well watered in at time of planting, 
no matter how wet the ground is at the time. 
This especially applies to late plantings dur¬ 
ing December or January. 


Popularity of the Daffodils in London and 
suburban gardens. — Among the many 
charming bulbs that appear to thrive remark¬ 
ably well in London and suburban gardens 
there is none to equal the Daffodil in its many 
delightful forms. At the April meeting of the 
National Amateur Gardeners’ Association, 
held at Winchester House, Old Broad-street, 
London, E.C., a beautiful and highly credit¬ 
able display of these flowers was made by its 
members. The large hall was well filled with 
excellent exhibits of the Daffodil, and upon 
inquiry it was found that most of the exhibi¬ 
tors were growers within five miles of the 
city. Some remarkably fine flowers were ex- 

Digitized by 


hibited by growers within three miles of the 
place of meeting. The trumpet forms were 
w r ell done. Golden Spur, princeps, Horsfieldi, 
Empress, Emperor, and albicans were con¬ 
spicuous in several exhibits. Of the Leedsi 
type, Mrs. Langtry and Minnie Hume were 
chaste and refined. Of Barri type, D. con- 
spicuus was handsome nnd freeiy displayed. 
Queen Bess, Sir Watkin, Cynosure, Figaro, 
Poetieus ornatus, besides several others, were 
much admired. Hyacinths, Tulips, Iris reti¬ 
culata, and Violets were among the other sub¬ 
jects exhibited. Table decorations, vases, and 
sprays in charming variety made a really re- 
markable display.—C. 


VEGETABLES, 

FRENCH BEANS. 

These are delicious when gathered quite 
young. Their tender foliage forbids early 
sowing, a few degrees of frost laying them 
low r , so that it is wiser to defer committing 
the seed to the ground until the first week in 
May, and, possibly, a week later than that 
in the extreme north is advisable. The seed, 
too, is tender, and quickly decays if the cold 
state of the soil prevents germination, so it 
will be seen little is gained by being in too 
great a haste to sow. The dwarf varieties 
come into bearing the quicker, and are 
usually sown first; in fact, matfy people pre¬ 
fer these to the Runners, and make a suc¬ 
cession of sowings from early May up to the 
middle of July. A warm, sheltered border or 
corner should be chosen for the first sowing, 
as earliness is the aim of the grower, and a 
light warm soil hastens these crops to 
maturity. Later in the season sowings may 
be made in the open garden ; between Celery 
ridges good crops are annually taken. Where 
the dwarf kinds only are cultivated during the 
season, a sowing should he made every ten 
days, allowing 2J feet to 3 feet between each 
row, so that when the plants are well through 
the soil they may be earthed or mounded lip 
similar to the Potato, sticking in a few twigs 
along both sides of the row to maintain 
the growths in an erect position, and prevent 
the wind twisting them at the base. This is 
not all, as when the plants stand well up the 
Beans are more perfect in shape than if the 
haulm is allowed to rest on the ground, when 
many get crippled and sometimes eaten by 
the slugs. In spells of drought frequent 
applications of water, diluted farm or cow- 
yard drainings, are very beneficial when pods 
are forming. These dwarf varieties need to 
be gathered every other day, as they get 
stringy more quickly than do the climbing 
sorts usually classed as Scarlet Runners, but 
now we have white-flowered ones ns well, the 
name does not apply to all. Good and reli¬ 
able kinds among dw r arfs are Ne Plus Ultra, 
Canadian Wonder, Magnum Bonnm, and Sir 
Joseph Paxton. M. B. 


TOMATOES IN BOXES. 

Rf. your article on Tomato-growing in a recent issue, 

I want to grow some in a cold greenhouse in boxes, 
and shall be obliged if you will inform me—(1) What 
depth and width should he allowed to boxes, and how 
far apart in boxes should plants be put, single row? 
(2) Should sand be mixed with ordinary garden 
soil (fairly light); if so, in what proportion? (3) 
Should manure be added, and, if so, horse or cow?— 
Caragil 

[Tomatoes can be successfully grown in 
boxes of almost any size. Especially good 
have we seen them in old sugar-boxes, though 
we are no advocates for such large sizes, 
because it has been proved that a much less 
quantity of soil accommodates them. In 
making boxes for Tomato-growing, we allow 
an inside width of 10 ins., and the same in 
depth, each measuring 3£ ft. in length. Such 
boxes will accommodate four plants each, so 
that a little less than a foot is allowed br 
tween them. There is no gain in crowding 
in more plants than this number. Sand is 
unnecessary, but if the soil is of somewhat 
poor character, a little horse-manure is de¬ 
cidedly advantageous; if, on the other hand, 
there is a normal amount of fertility, then a 
small addition of hone-meal mixed with the 
soil is sufficient. Bone-meal is an excellent 
stimulant for Tomatoes; so also arc any of 
the advertised compounds, if these are more 
easily procured. Of bone-meal, 2 lb. mixed 
with a good-sized barrow-load of soil, would 
be ample for a start; and it is much better 
to adopt a policy of little and often in all 
such cases than to give liberal doses less fre¬ 
quently. Provide only sufficient drainage 
for the surplus water to pass off freelv, for 
when in full leaf, and laden with a heavy 
crop, they demand water often. Firm soil 
conduces to a sturdy growth, but do not 
press it while in a wet or half-sodden state. 
Surface dressings of fresh soil, with which a 
little artificial manure is mixed, will aid de¬ 
velopment of the swelling fruits consider¬ 
ably if given at intervals of, say, a month.] 


POTATO GROWING IN YORKSHIRE.* 
ir. 

Choice of variety.— Success or failure in 
Potato growing is determined largely by the 
choice of variety. The seed may be in first- 
class condition, the soil and manures may be 
the same for all, and yet one variety may 
yield tons less per acre than another. In test¬ 
ing varieties of Potatoes it is especially im¬ 
portant that the stock from which the seed for 
the test is drawn should have been grown 
under the same soil and climatic conditions. 
The value of a variety should not be gauged 
solely by its cropping capacity. Cooking 
quality is a very important point, and al¬ 
though this is largely dependent on soil and 

* The account of Potato growing-given in tins leaflet 
is based mainly on the results of experiments conducted 
throughout Yorkshire by the University of Leeds and the 
Yorkshire Council for Agricultural Education ; hut the 
recommendations os to manuring are not to he con¬ 
sidered generally applicable without due regard to varia¬ 
tions in soil, locality, climate, etc. 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



















184 


GARDENING 1L t UST RATED. 


Juxe 8, 1907 


reason, yet the results obtained on the 
medium loam soil at Garforth will, it is be¬ 
lieved, be found to agree in great measure 
with the results obtained in other parts of 
the country. Disease-resisting power is a 
ino9t important consideration, and so also is 
the natural tendency of the variety to form 
tubers the bulk of which are big enough to be 
put upon the market as ware. Thie, for¬ 
tunately, can be controlled to a certain extent 
by using cut sets. Then, again, choice of 
variety must be governed by the demand of 
the market. There are many good coloured 
varieties, but the demand for such in city 
markets is comparatively limited, and it cer¬ 
tainly pays best to grow only those that will 
meet a ready sale. Out of a large number 
of varieties tested in Yorkshire and elsewhere 
during the past five years, the following may 
be taken as best fulfilling all the conditions 
above stated : — 

Earlies.— Ringleader, Harbinger, Recorder, 
Sir John Llewellyn. 

Second Enrlies. —British Queen, Conquest, 
Royal Kidney. 

Late or maincrop varieties. —Up-to-Date, 
Charles Fidler, Evergood. 

There are doubtless many other excellent 
varieties, especially of the Up-to-Date type, 
but the above are more or less typical of the 
different classes. 

Manuring of Potatoes. 

Probably no crop grown on the farm re¬ 
ceives more manure than the Potato crop. 
Although, in most cases, the plant responds 
readily to liberal manuring, it is doubtful if 
it is a greedier feeder than other “fallow” 
crops. It should be borne in mind that the 
largest possible crop is not always the most 
profitable, and that an excess of manurial 
ingredients over the requirements of the crop 
may lead to considerable waste. It may be 
argued that any such excess will benefit future 
crops, but the farmer wants the highest pos¬ 
sible return on the first crop -^-“residual 
value” being generally a more or less doubt¬ 
ful asset. 

Dung alone. —In manuring Potatoes a cer¬ 
tain amount of dung is always beneficial. It 
may be applied at different periods of the 
year, but most experiments show that spring 
applications give the best results. A dressing 
of 20 tons of dung per acre is not uncommon, 
and with such treatment alone good crops may 
often be obtained. It frequently happens, 
however, that the foliage is encouraged at 
the expense of the tubers, especially when 
artificials are also applied, and actually 
heavier and more profitable crops can be 
grown by using half the above quantity of 
dung with artificials. If the land is in very 
poor condition, 20 tons of dung may prove 
more profitable than 10 tons, but in many 
cases the former quantity is too large to be 
npplied with profit. 

Dung supplemented with artificials.— The 
most common system of manuring Potatoes is 
to apply a moderate dressing of dung—say 
about 10 tcr.s per ncrc—and supplementing 
with artificials. In the use of the latter along 
with dung caution is necessary. It is believed 
that artificials arc frequently applied in excess 
of the requirements of the crop, and that, in 
consequence, smaller profits are obtained 
than when more economical methods are fol¬ 
lowed. When crops of from 9 tons to 10 ton6 
per acre can be grown solely by the aid of 
moderate dressings of dung, there is a risk that 
any increase in yield obtained by the addi¬ 
tional use of artificials may be produced at 
too great a cost. The following mixture cf 
artificials per acre may b? recommended as a 
safe and reliable one under most circum¬ 
stances, and no farmer should use artificials 
in greater quantity along with 10 tons of dung 
until he has thoroughly satisfied himself by 
experiment that it can be done with profit: — 

1 cwt. sulphate of ammonia, 2 ewt. super¬ 
phosphate, 1 cwt. sulphate of potash. 

The effect of artificials when no dung is 
applied.— Although dung is generally re¬ 
garded as essential in the manuring of Pota¬ 
toes, very good and highly profitable crops 
can be grown without it. The following mix¬ 
ture of artificials per acre may generally be 
depended upon to produce as big a crop of 
Potatoes as 10 tony^-oi dung : 2 1‘wt. sul- 

Digitized by GOOgie 


phate of ammonia, 4 cwt. superphosphate, 
2 cwt. sulphate of potash. Dung, when 
readily obtainable, will doubtless prove more 
economical than the above mixture of arti¬ 
ficials, but there are times— e.g ., after 
“seeds ”—when such a mixture alone will give 
quite as profitable returns as 10 tons of dung. 

Sulphate of ammonia V. nitrate of soda .— 
When used along with dung there is generally 
little to choose between these two sources of 
nitrogen, but when no dung is used the results 
are mostly in favour of sulphate of ammonia. 

Different potash manures. —Sulphate of 
potash, in most cases, will give the best re¬ 
sults, but there is so little to choose between 
the sulphate and the muriate that a farmer in 
purchasing should be guided by their respec¬ 
tive unit prices. Both these forms have 
proved superior to kainit. There is an idea 
prevalent amongst farmers that kainit, owing 
to its attractive power for moisture, is 
superior to the other forms on sandy or light 
soils, especially in a dry season. This, how¬ 
ever, has not been borne out by the Yorkshire 
experiments. 

Rape-meal. —As a manure for Potatoes, 
Rape-meal is held in high favour in districts 
where the soils are light in character. It con¬ 
tains about 5 per cent, of nitrogen and 4 per 
cent, of phosphates, and, like most organic 
manures, decomposes slowly in the soil. In 
experiments conducted in 1905, 2 cwt. per 
acre, together with £ cwt. sulphate of am¬ 
monia, 1 cwt. sulphate of potash, and 10 tons 
of dung, gave very satisfactory results on light 
soils in Yorkshire. 

The effect of manures upon cooking quality 
and disease.—Cooking quality: The quality 
of the Potato is dependent upon many factors, 
including soil, season,-variety, and the state 
of ripeness of the tuber, but manures also in¬ 
fluence quality. The application of a heavy 
dressing of dung appears to depreciate some¬ 
what seriously the value of a Potato for cook¬ 
ing purposes. A moderate dressing is con¬ 
siderably less harmful, whilst the addition of 
a well-balanced mixture of artificials to a 
moderate dressing of dung will, other things 
being equal, produce Potatoes of the first 
quality. Sulphate of ammonia is preferable 
to nitrate of soda when used along with dung, 
but when no dung is applied nitrate of soda, 
as an ingredient of a mixture of artificials, 
may be quite as satisfactory as sulphate of 
ammonia. 

Disease. —Nothing very definite can be said 
on this point. Any manures, however, which 
tend unduly to stimulate the growth of the 
foliage, such as heavy applications of dung or 
mixtures of artificials containing a rather 
high percentage of nitrogen, appear to en¬ 
courage the disease. 

Time of planting.— Potatoes should be 
planted in spring, as soon as a good tilth can 
be obtained. April is generally a suitable 
month, but sometimes planting is possible 
about the end of March, and not infrequently 
good returns are obtained from seed planted 
in May. When no special precautions, how¬ 
ever—such as boxing—are taken to preserve 
the first sprouts, it is advisable to plant the 
Potatoes so that, as far as possible, they shall 
make their first growth in the soil. A good 
covering of soil will protect the sets from 
frost, even when planted as early as the end 
of March, but as soon as the weather becomes 
fairly mild, part of the covering should be re¬ 
moved by harrowing, as weak and spindling 
sprouts result if they have to push their way 
through a considerable thickness of soil before 
reaching the light. 

Depth of planting. —As to the proper depth 
to plant a great deal depends upon the char¬ 
acter of the soil. Where the soil is loose and 
friable it is possibly advantageous to plant 
fairly deeply. When dung is applied in the 
row the danger of the sets being covered too 
much’is minimised, but when Potatoes are 
planted without dung in the row there is con¬ 
siderable risk of their being covered too 
deeply, especially on the heavier class of soils. 

Time to lift Potatoes. —It is highly im¬ 
portant that Potatoes should be lifted as soon 
as they are ripe. It has been demonstrated 
repeatedly that comparatively healthy crops 
can be obtained even from those varieties 
which are generally regarded as being very 


liable to disease (Phytophthora) if attention 
is given to this point. 

Formation of the pie. —The general princi¬ 
ples on which a pie or clamp is made are prac¬ 
tically the same throughout the country. The 
method of covering the pie, however, varies 
considerably, but the following, which is prac¬ 
tised in some parts of Yorkshire, may be 
safely recommended. The usual roof-shaped 
pie is covered with a layer of straw about 
6 inches thick. A plank about 1 foot broad 
and from 8 feet to 10 feet long, is then placed 
along the top of the pie, and the sides to the 
length of the plank are covered with an inch 
or two of soil. The plank is then moved along 
and another length is covered with soil. In 
this way the top of the pie is kept free from 
soil, and provision made for ventilation. It 
may be necessary to add more soil to the sides 
later in the year, but the top is left untouched 
except, perhaps, in a time of severe frost, 
when a covering of Potato haulm is put over 
the straw.— Leaflet No. 173 of the Hoard of 
Agriculture and Fisheries. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Black spot on Tomatoes—I shall be glad if you 
will tell me what is the matter with the enclosed 
Tomato? The plants, grown in a house with the air 
left on all night, are quite healthy. It is a large- 
house, and several more Tomatoes are going in the 
same way. If it is a disease, should the whole house 
be cleared?—M rs. Crossley, Maltby, Rotherham. 

[Your Tomatoes have been attacked by a 
fungus known as Cladosporium fulvtnn.' It 
germinates soonest in moisture, and in the 
morning any moisture that may have accu¬ 
mulated through vapour arising from the soil 
during the night, and become condensed, in¬ 
variably runs down to the lowest point of 
the fruit just where the decaying bloom is. 
The moisture would do no harm were there 
no spores of the fungus in the house. These, 
settling on the fruits, are washed by the mois¬ 
ture down to the flower-base, or apex, and at 
once become fertile or active, penetrating the 
fruit through the tiny orifice left by the de¬ 
caying bloom. Then it commences to spread, 
and in its growth preying upon the flesh or 
tissue, causes it to blacken or decay, just as 
ie seen in your fruits. Too commonly ama¬ 
teurs’ water Tomato plants too freely, especi¬ 
ally doing so towards night, then shutting the 
house or frame close, quite bottling in any 
vapour that is certain to exhale during the 
night. Watering should be done early in the 
morning, and then with the house ’ thrown 
open and ample ventilation provided, the 
ntmosphore is dried, and there is little vapour 
created at night. It is too much assumed 
that the Tomato needs ample moisture, and 
often the plants are watered and syringed as 
freely as Cucumbers. That is a great mis¬ 
take. The Tomato is a native of a hot, dry 
country, and the conditions found in its 
native habitat should be materially furnished 
in ordinary 01111111 * 0 . The black spot seems to 
be common with amateurs. That is because 
they do net so well understand the conditions 
of culture and treatment needed. Profes¬ 
sional growers who give their plants very 
limited root area, never a rich soil, but fairly 
good holding loam, seldom give manure 
dressings, using liquid-manure with modera¬ 
tion and applying it, perhaps, only once a 
week, after the fruits have begun to swell. 
They are seldom troubled with the disease. 
It aiso exhibits itself rarely outdoors, except 
in cold, wet seasons. Once the spot is seen 
on the fruits, cure, 60 far ns these affected 
parts are concerned, is impossible. They 
should be at. once picked off, taken away, 
and destroj'ed. The best cure for this trouble 
is to dissolve 10 oz. of sulphate of potassium 
or liver of sulphur in two quarts of boiling 
water, adding two gallons of water, ana 
syringing the plants with this.] 

Purple Sprouting Broccoli.— Like the cor 
respondents at page 97, I, too, have a good 
word for this. I prefer this to white Broc¬ 
coli. I am convinced that next to Brussels 
Sprouts this is the most profitable of all 
green crops. I am pleased to see “A. D.” 
refers to the miserable way this is marketed 
and 6een in shops. In a cottage garden near 
me there has been this spring one of the 
finest rows I have ever seen. This was 
planted close to the path, so that but little 
room i^ tnkerr up. In this position good 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



Junk 8, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


185 



young shoots can be had for many weeks 
without occupying valuable space. It is 
worthy of note that those needing it can grow 
both early and late kinds. The early form 
is at its best at least three weeks before the 
other. I grow' both. It is not wise to en¬ 
courage too strong growth in autumn, as this 
suffers in severe cold. I sow during early 
May, and plant out at twice.—J. C. F. 

TREES AND SHRUBS. 

THE NEW ZEALAND LABURNUM 
(SOPHORA TETRAPTERA). 

For many years the only recognised 6pecies 
of Sophora in our garden^ was the beautiful 
autumn-flowering tree, Sophora japonica, but 
now the list is a fairly extensive one, owing, 
in the first place, to various discoveries in 
China, and, secondly, to the fact that the 
different Edwardsias are now included in the 
genus Sophora. That herewith figured, 


land plants mentioned by Lord Annesley as 
| thriving at Castlewellan. There is a variety 
of the above known as 

S. T. MICROPHYLLA, which was formerly 
1 classed as a distinct species. Beside its 
i smaller leafage, the flowers are also shorter, 
and the young branches more slender. Bo- 
I longing to the same section is 
I Sophora macrocarpa, known also as 
I Edwardsia chilensis, a native of Chili, but 
| very little known in this country. The 
flowers are also yellow, and borne in the 
spring. 

Sophora japonica, despite its specific 
name, is now regarded as really a native of 
China’ or Corea, and an introduction into 
I Japanese gardens. It is a handsome tree, 
which, however hot and dry the summer may 
J be, retains the rich green of its foliage till 
l the autumn, while the racemes of creamy 
flowers, borne about the end of August, are 
i at their best long after the flowering period 
I of all our hardy trees is over. As a weeping 


Edwardsia tetraptera. From specimen sent by Messrs. R. Veitch and Son, Exeter. 


Sophora tetraptera, was introduced 
from New Zealand as long ago as 1772, and 
was then, and for many years subsequently, 
known as Edwardsia tetraptera, or by one of 
its synonyms, E. grandiflora and E. Mncna 
hiann. It is an exceedingly handsome, large 
shrub, or comparatively small tree, whose 
flowers, borne in clusters, as may be well 
seen in the accompanying illustration, are of 
a deep yellow colour, while the prominent 
calyx is of a bronzy-gold hue. Spring is its 
season of blooming, and some grandly- 
flowered sprays were lately shown at one of 
the recent meetings of the Royal Horticul¬ 
tural Society. Tne foliage, too, is very 
pretty, the light pinnate leaves being of a 
somewhat silky texture. Ornamental though 
it be, this Sophora, in common with many 
other plants from the same region, cannot be 
grown out-of-doors without protection, un¬ 
less in the milder parts of Great Britain and 
Ireland. In Devon and Cornwall it may be 
often met with, whiltrin Ireland ill finds a 
place among the select -M 9 V 0 ? 


oz 


tree, the variety pendula is a very striking 
one. Another rare and beautiful species is 
S. 8ECUNDIflora, from Texas and New 
Mexico, a low, dense tree or leafy shrub, with 
I ornamental foliage composed of neat, rounded 
I leaflets, with a glossy surface and 6weet- 
| scented violet-blue flowers borne in a dense 
i spike. These are followed by silvery pods 
j containing bright red seeds. The plant is not 
easily obtained, but is hardy with protection 
in our more favoured districts. 

S. VIOIIFOLIA would not be regarded as a 
member of the same genus, for it is in habit 
| essentially a shrub that flowers freely when 
little more than a yard high. The leaves are 
j pinnate, each from 2 inches to 3 inches long, 
and composed of eight to ten pairs of leaflets. 

I The Pea-shape^ flowers, each a little over 
half an inch in length, are white, suffused 
j more or less with blue, and disposed in small 
| terminal racemes. In the province of Yunnan, 
in Western China, it is said bv Messrs. 

| Veitch’s traveller, Mr. E. H. Wilson, to 
I clothe stretches of almost barj^p lapd in the 


same manner as the Furze does in this 
country. It has proved hardy in the neigh¬ 
bourhood of London, and flowers about mid¬ 
summer. 

The Kew Hand List contains the names of 
the following species: S. Korolkowi, China; 
S. pachycarpa, China; and S. violacea, 
China. X. 

BERBERIS DARWINI. 

When raised in quantity from seed, aud the 
plants have reached the flowering stage, a 
most interesting variation may often be ob¬ 
served in the colour of the blossoms of this 
shrub. While the flowers of the majority 
arc of the typical orange tint, in some they 
are of a rich yellow, more nearly approach¬ 
ing in this respect the beautiful Berberis 
stenophylla, and a few may often be selected 
in which the orange is so deeply suffused 
with red as to suggest that it might be pos¬ 
sible by continual selection to obtain a bright 
red variety of this handsome Barberry. f lhe 
typical form of Berberis Dar- 
wini is from its handsome 
masses of dark green leafage, 
lit up in the month of May by 
its gorgeous blossoms, en¬ 
titled to rank as one of the 
very finest of all our hardy 
evergreen shrubs, for it has in 
this section very few rivals. 
One of its progeny, the golden- 
flowered Berberis stenophylla, 
is, perhaps, its most formid¬ 
able rival. Another point in 
favour of Berberis Darwini is 
that it is not particular in its 
cultural requirements, though 
it thrives best in a deep, well- 
drained, yet moderately moist 
loam. The rich purple berries, 
with a bloom on them like a 
well-finished Grape, add in 
early autumn another very 
attractive feature. Beside its 
great ornamental value, Ber¬ 
beris Darwini is of especial 
interest, as it commemorates 
the name of the great natural¬ 
ist Darwin, by whom it was 
discovered on the Island of 
Chiloe, off the coast of Chili, 
during the voyage of the 
Beagle. For its actual intro¬ 
duction, however, we are in¬ 
debted to William Lobb, who, 
travelling in South America 
in the forties on behalf of 
Messrs. Veitch, sent home this 
and many other beautiful 
plants. 

Berberis stenophylla, above 
alluded to, is an accidental 
hybrid between Berberis Dar¬ 
wini and the small-flowered 
Berberis empetrifolin. It is a 
beautiful shrub, of more vigor¬ 
ous growth than either of its 
parents, and forms a more 
graceful specimen than Ber- 
• beris Darwini. Which is the 
prettier is at least an open 
question, but in most gardens 
a place may well be found for both. X. 


NOTES A XI) REPLIES. 

Pyrus Tschonoski. — 1 This is a distinct and 
beautiful addition to hardy spring-flowering 
trees. It is the only Pear tree which is indi¬ 
genous to Japan, the Chinese P. sinensis, a 
common cultivated fruit-tree in all parts of 
the Empire, having become naturalised and 
widely spread in that country. P. Tschcnoski 
is evidently very rare, and was first discovered 
by a Russian named Tschonosky on the 
slopes of Fugi-san, but it was not until Pro¬ 
fessor Sargent and Mr. J. H. Veitch dis¬ 
covered it some twelve years ago in the 
grounds of a temple near Nekatsugawa and 
in the woods at the head of the Y6ui-toge that 
it was introduced to cultivation. In its 
native habitat P. Tschonoski grows to a height 
of from 30 feet to 40 feet, with a trunk 1 foot 
in diameter, and a narrow round topped 
head. The flowers, which are each about an 
inch in diameter, are sweet-scented, and are 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



186 


CARD EJVIA 'G ILL U ST RAT ED. 


June 8, TJ07 


borne about five in a cluster on short pedicels 
at the end of very short lateral branchlets, 
the petals being almost white, with pink 
margins. The fruits are of a dull yellpw 
colour, with one side sometimes rosy-red. 
Young trees of it are now in flower at Kew. 
It is evidently as hardy as other Japanese 
favourites .—The Field. 


FRUIT. 

RED SPIDER IN FRUIT-HOUSES. 

A dry, cold winter, succeeded by a keen, 
harsh spring, with wind blowing principally 
from the north and east, may well be dreaded 
by the practical fruit grower, for he knows 
how quickly incessant firing, accompanied, 
perhaps, by dryness at the roots, brings 
spider and other insects into existence. The 
past season has been especially favourable 
to the rapid spread of our worst of all in¬ 
sects—red-vspider—in vineries, and, unless 
timely steps are taken, soon we may expect 
to hear of the most promising crops of Grapes 
having been marred or spoiled by this in¬ 
sidious little pest. Spider is sometimes 
carried from one house to another not only 
by plants, but by the attendants whose duties 
take them through every compartment many 
times in the course of the day. The most 
common cause of its premature appearance, 
however, is due to imperfect cleansing in 
winter; it may be of the bark of the Vines, 
or it may be of some part of the structure 
itself. Be this as it may, the most fertile 
cause of its spread is dryness of the atmos¬ 
phere from incessant fire heat, imperfect 
ventilation, and an insufficiency of water to 
the roots. 

Dryness being the cause of its development, 
it is but reasonable to assume that water is 
the best agent of destruction ; but then it, 
unfortunately, happens that incessant syring¬ 
ing soon destroys the bloom and renders 
Grapes unmarketable, if not uneatable. Still, 
whatever insecticides may be used, water to 
the roots, water wherever it can be applied, 
must be accepted as one of the most potent 
auxiliary agents in its destruction. Soft 
water, free from lime, is best., and a thorough 
drenching that will wet every leaf and berry 
will do less harm thau light showers of spray ; 
but, prevention being better than cure, I 
have always made a practice of putting in a 
Syringeful of soft water wherever it can be 
driven against the foliage without running 
the risk of wetting a berry. Rather late in 
the evening is the best time to apply this 
preventive remedy, and some little practice 
with a trusty syringe is necessary, but it can, 
and has been done here for years with the 
most satisfactory results. When this does 
not produce the desired effect, and the spider 
from old spurs fastens on the leaves immedi¬ 
ately above the bunches, sponging with soapy 
water, a decoction of Quassia chips, or To¬ 
bacco, often nips the enemy; and, hist of 
all, in one or more of its many forms comes 
sulphur. Sulphur, however, is not always a 
harmless remedy, as many a house of Vines, 
by its use or abuse, has been ruined for years 
in the twinkling of an eye. This remark ueed 
not deter careful people from using it, as we 
frequently hear of mishaps brought about by 
the injudicious application of some of our 
oldest and best-tried insecticides. Sulphur, 
in the first place, should never be applied to 
the pipes until after the Grapes have passed 
the stoning stage, otherwise rust will most, 
likely follow, and then even tender varieties, 
like the Frontignans and Chasselas Musque, 
often suffer. In the second place, it should 
never be applied to brick flues, if such still 
exist, to iron that has been heated in the fire, 
or newly slaked lumps of lime, at one time so 
strongly recommended. It may, however, be 
applied as a paint or wash to the hot-water 
pipes after they have been heated to a degree 
that will render them uncomfortably hot to 
the hand when placed upon them. To pre¬ 
pare a vinery for the fumes it should be shut 
up hot and dry, at a temperature ranging 
from 80 degs. to 90 degs., the wash being ap¬ 
plied after the sun has left the roof, when 
the ventilators may bfikept close throughout 
the night. They insist* however,-*®, opened 
very eftVly the follov \p)g| lii.g^np^unless 


the operation is to be repeated, when shad¬ 
ing should be resorted to, the walls, floors, 
and all available foliage should be well 
syringed, not only to break up the webs, but 
to produce vapour that will render the fumes 
harmless to the leaves. If the first painting 
does not make a clearance, it may be repeated 
ouee, or perhaps twice, at intervals of two or 
three days. Many people paint the pipes 
first aud heat them afterwards ; but this is 
a mistake, as they should be hot enough to 
vaporise the sulphur the moment it is ap¬ 
plied. In vineries subject to annual attacks, 
gardeners use sulphur in the winter dressing, 
also with the lime applied to the walls, and 
not unfrequently distribute it over the stems 
and leaves with the sulphurator ; but the best 
of all preventives is generous culture, with 
an abundance of air, water, and atmospheric 
moisture, aud last, but not least, moderate 
cropping. 


MULCHING FRUIT TREES. 

If the present prospects of a fruitful season 
be realised, the conserving of moisture about 
the roots of fruit-trees will have to be 
attended to by mulching. That this is the 
best form of conserving moisture cannot be 
denied, whether artificial waterings have to 
be performed or not. If a dry season should 
ensue, trees carrying a heavy crop of fruit 
will require material support. On light soils 
the want of moisture about the roots is soon 
felt, and as artificial watering is, as a rule, 
out of the question, early mulching will assist 
the trees considerably. In the case of bush 
fruits, either Currants. Gooseberries, or 
Rasp I »erri p«, 1 mulch with short manure at. 
the close of the winter season after the prun¬ 
ing has been performed, and the trees derive 
great benefit from such applications. This 
mulching, in addition to conserving the mois¬ 
ture. attracts the roots to the surface. It is 
generally the trees growing against walls 
which feel the ill effects of the want of mois¬ 
ture the quickest, and such as these should 
receive the earliest attention. Peaches and 
Nectarines on south walls should, un¬ 
doubtedly, be mulched, as these very quickly 
feel the ill effects of the want of moisture. 
Where a fair width of border is given up un 
disturbed to the roots, this should have a 
layer of littery manure spread about the sur¬ 
face to quite a width of 5 feet. Apricots, 
Plums, Peairs, especially those worked on the 
6 hallow-rooting Quince stock, also quickly 
feel the effects of drought, and the earlier 
such an nid as mulching can be applied it 
will be all the better for the future prospects 
of the fruit. Bush Apples growing on either 
of the dwarfing stocks should also lie mulched, 
this being very essential on light soils. There 
is not a fruit-bearing subject in either the 
orchard or garden which would not derive 
marked benefit from mulching. It. is of no 
use to wait until the soil loses its primipal 
moisture before applying a mulch, as when 
this escapes the value of nnih-liing is consider¬ 
ably lessened. Where there is lack of mulch¬ 
ing material the wall-trees should have first 
attention, as the free use of the hoe about 
the surface of those growing in the open 
quarters, especially in the case of small bush 
fruits, will assist in conserving the moisture 
considerably. H. A. 


NOTES AND REPLIES . 

Late Crapes. —On cold nights thick- 
skinned Grapes, such as Gros Colman and 
Muscals, must have some heat. Whenever 
the thermometer falls below 60 (legs., turn 
on a little warmth. We have grown fairly 
ood Black Hamburghs without fire-heat. We 
ave, in fact, one unheated house planted 
with Hamburghs, but by opening doors of 
connecting house, to which it forms a sort of 
corridor, we get fairly good Grapes, and as 
they are cut as soon os ripe, not much harm 
is done. In a general way, all vineries should 
l)e heated, though it may not be necessary to 
use the fire for early kinds of Grapes, ex¬ 
cept in wet or cold weather, but thick skinned 
Grapes which require time and warmth to 
ripen must have a little warmth for some 
time longer yet. Grapes should be thinned 
before the berries crowd each other, and 
keeping Grapes should be thinned more than 
those which will be cleared early. 


QARDEN PE8T3 AND FRIENDS. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Eggs of insect —In the enclosed box are several 
little round balls and one larger one—presumably, 
eggs. Would you kindly tell me the name of the 
insect laying such eggs?—A. 

[The eggs which you sent are those of one 
of the earthworms, or, rather, they are 
cocoou6 containing a number of eggs, only a 
few of which hatch—sometimes only one. 
These cocoons are deposited either on the 
surface of the soil or at various depths below 
it.—G. 8. 8.] 

Mites in Oak-tree —Can you tell me what the 
insects are that you "will find in the enclosed box? 
They swarm in the cracks and holes in the branches 
of Evergreen Oaks here, and in one case in an 
Austrian Fir, where secured to a stake with a band. 
I have not noticed them before this year, but this 
may be from lack of observation.—W hin-Hurst. 

[The little creatures which you find in the 
bark of your trees are one of the beetle mites 
belonging to the family Oribatidae. They 
will not injure the trees in any way.— 
G. 8. S.] 

The Raspberry beetle - I am enclosing with this 
a flower from the Logan berry with a small beetle 
found in it. In previous years this pest has caused 
great havoc in the fruit, as hardly any berries were 
free from deformity caused by a grub, presumably, 
of this beetle. Can you suggest any remedy 1 might 
try for this?—M. H. W. 

[The little beetles injuring the blossoms of 
your Logan berry are specimens of (he Rasp¬ 
berry beetle (Byturus to men t os us), which 
sometimes cause much injury to the Rasp¬ 
berry crop. This is a very destructive pest, 
as the beetles injure the flowers and their 
grubs spoil tho fruit. The beetles fly very 
readily, especially in bright, warm weather, 
but they may be caught on a dull morning 
by shaking the flowers Over bags soaked in 
paraffin pil. tarred boards or baskets tarred 
inside, or over anything sticky. When the 
bush is pruned burn all prunings and remove 
any rubbish that may have accumulated at 
the base of the plant. The grubs mnke little 
cocoons, in which they undergo their trans¬ 
formation in inequalities in the bark of the 
stems or other sheltered places. From these 
cocoons the beetles emerge the following 
spring. It would, probably, be useful to 
spray the plant with a caustic alkali wash in 
the course of the winter before there arc any 
signs of the buds opening.— G. 8. S.] 

Pines, moths injuring.— With this I send some 
shoots that have been destroyed by a grub that eats 
its way up the shoots and causes it to fall off. I am 
trying to get rid of this pest, but, having a planta¬ 
tion with a great number of Firs in it, find it a 
serious matter to exterminate it. Can you kindly tell 
me what can be done in the matter?—M. Thomas. 

[Your Pine-shoots have been attacked by 
the caterpillars of the Tortrix moth (Re- 
tinia buolina). This is a difficult pest to de¬ 
stroy, as the insect undergoes its transfonna 
(ions within the shoots, so that it cannot 
then be reached by any insecticide. The 
moths may Ik; found in July and August. If 
during the time that they are about the 
shoots could be rendered unpleasant by 
spraying frequently with a solution of paraf¬ 
fin emulsion or some other insecticide of that 
nature, the moths might be deterred from 
laying their eggs on them. Of course, cut¬ 
ting off and burning the infested shoots is an 
ideal way of destroying the pest, if it could 
be properly carried out, but with trees of 
any size this is practically impossible.— 

G. S. S.] 

Injury to Fir trees. —I am sending you » branch 
of a Fir-tree, which, apparently, has been attacheo 
by a fungoid growth. The tree grew in £ shrubbery, 
rather thickly planted in some places. I noticed tnai 
one tree attacked was under some spreading Elms, 
but the one I send pieces of is quite in the open, 
alongside a gravel path. Is there any way or c "f c *\ 
ing the pest, and is it likely to spread? I have b ®. ef ' 
at some trouble in planting a great many young rui: 
round my house, which is at a considerable elevation» 
and subject to strong winds.—W. Howard Flandek.- 

[When sending queries, kindly read our 
rules a<s to writing on one side of the paper 
only. The branch of your Fir-tree is nu 
infested by a fungus, but by one of tm- 
aphides, the Spruce-gall aphis (Cherin & 
abietis). Some of the females hibernate, an 
in the spring each selects a bud which w J l . 
beginning to open, and, piercing the base 
the young leaves, feeds on their juice©. 1 j 
prevents them from growing in the norm 






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Original from 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



188 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


June 8, 1907 


CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

NEW EARLY-FLOWERING SINGLES. 
Chrysanthemums of the single-flowered 
type (both largo and small) are increas¬ 
ing in popular esteem, and the one desire for 
some years past has been to get single- 
flowered kinds that would blossom outdoors 
with comparatively little trouble. Last 
autumn I saw a collection of outdoor single- 
flowered Chrysanthemums towards the end 
of September. With few exceptions the 
plants then in bloom wore seedlings flowering 
for the first time, and the collection, as a 
whole, showed a remarkable advance on any 
previous effort. The habit of almost every 
ilant was satisfactory. Dwarf to medium 
leight, with a bushy or brandling habit of 
growth, characterised all the better sorts, and 
the diverse colouring of the blossoms, to¬ 
gether with the delightful stellate form of 
many of them, stamped these new single- 
flowered Chrysanthemums as a most beauti¬ 
ful addition to our autumn-flowering plants. 
There were also a great many flowers of cor¬ 
rect florists’ form, the broader florets all 
evenly disposed round a nicely-formed disc, 
and, in many cases, the blossoms were borne 
in handsome sprays that could be gathered 
in sheaves, so free flowering were they. Many 
of the plants did not exceed 18 inches in 
height, a goodly number wore 2 feet, the 
greater number varying in height between 
2 feet and 3 feet, and none really tall. Several 
of the varieties have received the first class 
certificate of the National Chrysanthemum 
Society or the award of merit of the Royal 
Horticultural Society, which facts prove the 
value of these newer introductions. 

Readers of Gardening Illustrated may 
he interested to learn the names of some of 
the better sorts. White kinds that come into 
flower in August or September are well re¬ 
presented by Florence Gillham, pure white, 
arge flower; Weald, another pure white 
flower of large size ; Walter Bradbury, with 
pure white broad florets, making a large flower 
and a free-flowering variety, bearing grace¬ 
ful sprays of French white blossoms, with 
tubular florets, named Paris. A good fiery- 
red. of medium size and very pretty, is 
Majestic, the plants of which attain a height 
of about 3 feet in August. For the same 
period Ruby, a deep crimson, of medium size 
and distinctly pretty, is worthy of mention. 
A good rosy-crimson is The Carlton, a flower 
of medium size, borne on stiff, erect flower- 
stalks. Gem of Me re th am is a large flower 
of deep crimson colour, with a golden disc, 
and the plant is a continuous bloomer from 
August oinvard. Merstham Glory is another 
large bright crimson flower that has a small 
white zone round? a yellow disc. Cupid is a 
flower of charming stellate form, colour 
white, tinted blush-rose. This is an ideal 
border plant, and possesses a very dwarf 
habit—perhaps not more than 15 inches in 
height. Among the yellow kinds conspicuous 
was Kingcup, a bright yellow of medium size 
and free flowering. A light yellow of a tak¬ 
ing kind is Terpsichore, also a free bloomer. 
Another good kind belonging to the small- 
flowered section is Juno. This is a good yel¬ 
low, flowering in August. Eric bears flowers 
of medium size of a bronzy-yellow colour in 
August on plants 2 feet high. A variety with 
starry flowers of a golden-buff colour is 
Bound's Favourite. Another stellate flower 
is Blush Star. It is free flowering, and the 
blossoms are borne on light, elegant sprays. 
A warm-coloured flower is Surrey, and par¬ 
ticularly fine under artificial light ; salmon- 
cerise aptly describes the colour, and the 
flowers may be gathered in handsome sprays. 
The Downs is another of the larger-flowered 
sorts, bearing rosy-lilac blossoms on long 
footstalks. Early Rose may be regarded as 
an early form of Miss Rose, so popular in 
November. It is very free flowering, and has 
a compact habit. The blush-rose flowers arc 
borne in dense clusters. A beautiful terra¬ 
cotta flower is Evelyn Neale. The blossoms 
are large, and are seen in fine form in late 
August and September. The Navy is another 
excellent reddish terra-cotta flower of large 
size. A small flowered terra-cotta variety is 
Dr. Ingrain. A lovely^thade of teira-cotta 

digitized by IGOOglC 


is seen in The Veldt, a flower of medium 
size and in fine form in September; height, 
18 inches. E. G. 


SOIL FOR FINAL TOTTING. 

The preparation of the soil for the final pot¬ 
ting into flowering pots of a large collection 
of Chrysanthemums, no matter for what pur¬ 
pose they are intended, entails a certain 
amount of time and forethought, particu¬ 
larly when the necessary ingredients are not 
at hand. Successful results depend much 
upon the soil used, therefore any prepara¬ 
tions now made will be found an advantage, 
such ns plac ing soil, etc., under cover to be 
sufficiently dry when used ; the ordering of 
bones, or whatever artificial manure is 
thought l>est. Soils of a complex nature are 
often recommended, as if elaborate mixtures 
necessarily possess extraordinary virtues. 
Good soil is important, but it is only one ele¬ 
ment in the case. The effects of the best 
compost that can possibly be obtained may 
lie completely nullified by errors in watering 
and general management. The after treat¬ 
ment of the plants is the all important part 
to he studied, as these plants have such a 
short season of growth, and so much has to 
[ lx* done in n few months, that they must have 
every attention. To this end the composi¬ 
tion of the soil is not of so much importance 
as after feeding. The soil, then, while it 
contains food, must he regarded as a store for 
additional food which may be required, and 
! given from time to time. It is a mistake to 
I suppose that soil must 1 x prepared and 
stacked for six or twelve months previous to 
using it. No nbsolute rule can be laid down 
as to what mixture is the best, as soils differ 
so much in their nature in different parts of 
the country. 

Loam, as it is called, is composed of the 
top spit of an old pasture, cut according to 
the depth of the fibrous rooks of the Grass— 
in some places 3 inches deep, in others 
1 $ inches, according to the time the pasture 
has been laid down. It should lx cut some 
time previous to using, just long enough for 
the Grass to decay, but preserving the fibrous 
roots intrfft. If the turf is light in char¬ 
acter, and cut from where the land is of a 
sandy nature, ground oyster-shells should he 
added ; but if the turf is taken from a district 
where chalk and limestone abound, add more 
charcoal and wood-ashes in lieu of oyster 
shells. Charcoal is of great- assistance in 
keeping the soil in the pots porous and acting 
as a storehouse for ammonia. If the turf is 
of a retentive character, remove the fine soil, 
as this prevents a quick passage of the water 
when applied copiously. Those growers hav¬ 
ing a rather light soil at disposal are much 
more favoured than those who have to de- 
ixnd upon soil which is of a clayey nature. 
When light soil is used the moisture escapes 
from it quickly; consequently, feeding can 
Ik; more frequently and safely carried out 
than in the case of soils of a retentive nature. 

Manure is the ingredient second in im¬ 
portance, and must be applied in some form 
or other. Well decomposed cow-manure is 
often recommended. This is wrong, because 
what beneficial properties can there possibly 
be in manure entirely decomposed? It is the 
same with decomposed hot-bed manure. The 
violent heat of the mass during fermentation 
dissipated the ammonia, which, above all 
things, should be preserved for the benefit of 
the plants. I do not approve of cow-manure 
in any shape. I consider it most injurious 
when used with soil of a heavy character, it 
being too close in nature and far too binding. 
The best manure is that prepared as if for a 
Mushroom-lxd, shaking out, more of the straw 
than would he required for the growth of 
Mushrooms, and retaining little else but the 
I droppings. It is thus sweetened whilst most 
1 of the ammonia is retained. This is the best 
manure to employ for soils, both of a heavy 
and a light character. Finely ground hones 
are better than J-inch bones, as the latter 
do not give out their manurial properties 
sufficiently during the short period in which 
the plants make their final growth and bloom. 
Dissolved bones are also beneficial when used 
in proper quantities. £>. H. 


ROOM AND WINDOW. 

FLOWERING SHRUBS FOR CUTTING. 
When the Chrysanthemum season is over, 
it is somewhat difficult to obtain material to 
produce large masses of colour. Where, 
however, attention is paid to growing large 
flowering shrubs in pots, tubs, etc., abundant 
material can he had for cutting. 

I have some Persian Lilacs, blue and white, 
7 feet or 6 feet high, in small* tubs and 
big pots, Spineas, and numerous other 
things, which keep up a supply of cut bloom 
till shrubs come into bloom in the open air. 
Recently I saw in a small garden abundant 
evidence of how a conservatory may be kept 
gay at small cost by using flowering shrubs 
in pots. I was shown Laburnums, red and 
white Thorns, etc., that had been in the same 
pots for years. In summer • these receive 
occasional soaking# of manure-water. 

When the season is advanced enough, there 
is abundance of material from the open gar¬ 
den to give plenty of change. No sooner have 
the days begun to lengthen somewhat than 
you can get abundance of cut bloom. This 
winter I saw sprays of the red Dogwood used 
in a vase with Garrya elliptica. In the large 
rooms of the Abbey shoots of the red flowering 
Currant, cut from 2 feet to 4 feet long, and 
placed in a vase alone, are very effective. 
The pink and the yellow forms may also be 
used in the same way. Darwin’s Barberrv 
is equally good. Another beautiful shrub-, 
when cut in the bud, is Spiraea callosa. The 
long, slender shoots of Spiraea Thunbergi, 
full of small white flowers, are also useful to 
mingle with things that- are stiff. The com¬ 
mon Mahonia Aquifolium, when the growth 
is vigorous and full of bloom, is hard to heat. 
Rocent-lv I saw sprays in hud of the common 
Black Thorn used for a dinner table, Daffo¬ 
dils being intermingled with them. The 
leaves of the Daffodil formed the greenery. 
Although common, I have not seen anything 
so beautiful for a long time. 

I am convinced that if more of the lovely 
flowering shrubs and fewer of the many 
common evergreens were planted, our gar¬ 
dens would he more interesting, and mate¬ 
rial of the best could be had to cut from. 
Some think the blooming season of shrubs is 
short, but this is not so. They begin in 
February, going on into the autumn, when 
we have the Hibiscus, which affords fine 
material for cutting. J. Crook. 


Plants in cottage windows.— I have been 
very much struck lately by the variety and 
beauty of many plants that I have seen grow¬ 
ing in cottage windows. A journey I made 
into Warwickshire towards the middle cf 
May demonstrated that, notwithstanding the 
fact that last winter was a hard one, many 
country people had managed to keep their 
window plants, and, among them, I noticed 
good specimens of Zonal Pelargoniums, Ivy¬ 
leaved sorts, as well ns Fuchsias. Not a few 
seemed to make a specialty of these three 
popular plants, but there are other subjects 
t^at seem to thrive in the cottage windows in 
the country. I saw, for instance, specimens 
of Hydrangeas full of bud, and Arum Lilies 
with many white spathes, and one very often 
comes across plants of Phyllocacti, that are 
not the most attractive of subjects when not 
in bloom, owing to their disjointed and quaint 
shoots, hut when in flower are very hand¬ 
some, and may lx grown and bloomed in a 
sunny window. We have now arrived at that 
time of year when window-plant growing is 
comparatively easy. What a deal may be 
done in ensuring a bright display by growing 
a few Zonals ! They flower so continuously, 
and never give much trouble. I know a house 
where Pentstemons are grown in pots with 
very satisfactory results, and if it were under¬ 
stood how easy these showy subjects are to 
grow, more would undertake their culture in 
pots. Of recent years more attention has 
been paid to the Sohizantlius, and, as a pot 
plant, it is worth the little trouble it gives. 
Several of the Spiraeas, like japonica and 
multiflora, make capital plants for window 
growing, and for the next few months Bal¬ 
sams, possessing bright, showy, waxy blos¬ 
soms, ought to be encouraged in windows 
having a sunny -aspects —LEAHURBT, 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


June 8, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


189 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 

GERANIUMS (CRANE’S BILL). 

The hardy border Geraniums are among the 
most free flowering perennials, and certainly 
among the most easily cultivated. Not a few 
of the kinds, and the larger growing ones 
mere particularly, form bushes of good size 
and yield a profusion of blossoms for many 
weeks in succession. Nor is this profuse 
flowering confined to the larger growing i 
species and their varieties ; the dwarfer forms 1 
bloom as freely and continuously. Seeds are , 
in most of the kinds produced quite freely, 
and by these means a good stock of young 
plants may be raised. All the kinds submit j 
readily to division of the root tufts, and if ! 
the work, when necessary, is performed in I 
the spring of the year, very few losses will I 
ensue. This season is by no means essential, [ 
however, and where light 6oil« obtain I would , 
not hesitate to divide the plants at any time | 
in open weather from September to the end I 


the flower and its general character, but 
somewhat also of the leaf characters: — 

G. armenum has purplish-crimson blos¬ 
soms of large size, freely produced ; foliage 
handsome and distinct; feet high. 

G. Endressi.—A pretty species front the 
Pyrenees; l\ feet high, with a profusion of 
rose-coloured blossoms; habit dwarf and 
tufted, rootstock creeping. 

G. FREMONTII. —A North American species 
with handsome foliage not unlike that of G. 
armeniim. and with pale purplish blossoms. 
(See illustration, page 191.) 

G. 1BERICUM. An excellent species from 
the Caucasus, the large, florin-sized flowers 
of a good clear blue ; height feet. This 
is, undoubtedly, one of the best of the whole 
genus, and a plant for every garden. In a 
mass the effect is very pronounced. (See 
illustration.) 

G. ORANDIFLORUM. —The Geranium we 
know by this name does not appear to be of 
specific origin, but it is certainly a very fine 
garden plant, and should be in all collec- 


some Tulip, Golden Spire, writes os follows: 

I “Years since, Mr. Baker, of Kew Gardens, 
gave this the Latin name of ‘ elegans lutea 
maxima.’ For garden nomenclature I had to 
give it an English name—Golden Spire. It is 
| one of the sorts I took a fancy to, and have 
been growing it on from a few'bulbs. Now I 
have a few thousands. When, later on, I 
took it into my head to look up the neglected 
gardens of Ireland for these old remnants of 
a most isolated and most intelligent class in 
this country—the old gentry—I got this Tulip 
in one of their places. It is a fine thing, and 
1 have always looked upon it as a species.” 


PRIMROSES. 

I wish to know the proper time to divide and trans¬ 
plant Primroses, whether it is necessary to manure the 
soil, and if they should be allowed to remain in the 
same place two years running? The kinds I have are 
Wilson’s blue, purple, etc.—B eginner. 

[The best period for dividing and trans¬ 
planting Primroses is after their flowering 
season, and if fine blooms are desired, then 



The Iberian Crane’s Bill (Geranium ibericum). 


of March. Pot plants may, of course, be 
planted over a more extended period, but in 
all cases the plants from the open ground 
are much superior, and endeavour should, 
therefore, be made to plant at a seasonable 
time. Deeply-dug and moderately-manured 
6 oil is best, and the plants do not require to 
be transplanted more frequently than every 
third year. Seed-raising is worth the atten¬ 
tion of the amateur, and the plants so raised 
grow vigorously and flower well. 

One thing should always be borne in mind 
in growing these plants in the border or other 
place viz., the loose, free, open habit of the 
plants. To encourage this is the only way 
to see them in their natural beauty, and no¬ 
thing tends to a more disastrous result than 
to see the plants bunched or bundled together 
to a single stake. Thus it is that many kinds 
grown in a natural manner would be beauti 
ful in the upper portions of the rock garden, 
where the stems could always trail. 

The following are among the best of this 
family, and I shall not trouble the reader 
with intricate descriptions of the kinds men¬ 
tioned, because the accompanying illustra¬ 
tions give an excellent kLe^i, not mereBr of 

Digitize-by C,Ot >glC 


tions. The rich blue of its large, handsome 
flowers, touched at the bases of the petals 
with a reddish hue, gives the plant both 
character and distinction among its fellow’s. 

G. Phaeum is a European species, with 
very dark, medium-sized flowers. 

G. sanguineum is a dwarf plant covered 
with rosy-red flowers, and useful for the bor¬ 
der or the rock garden. There is a white 
variety, G. s. album, which is very pleasing. 

G. Wallichianum, from the Hima¬ 
layas, is a good plant on heavy soils, but on 
light soils it is liable to degenerate. In good 
condition the blossoms are rich blue, assum¬ 
ing a deeper, purer tone late in summer. 

G. pratense, in single and double forms, 
is useful for the wild garden, but generally 
too weedy for the choice border. 

G. argenteum, G. cinereum, G. c. roseuin, 
and G. subcaulescens are pretty species, 
better suited to rather dry positions in the 
rock garden. These are of slow growth, 
very compact, and tufted. E. J. 


Tulip Colden Spire. Mr. W. B. Hartland, 

of Cork, sending us some flovyere of a band¬ 


it is advisable to do this every year. There 
are now so many beautiful varieties to be had, 
and their culture is so simple that it is really 
surprising they are not more largely grown, 
as for a spring display few things are more 
beautiful. What is more, they will grow to 
perfection where some plants would not thrive 
at all, and that with very little trouble. 
Some of the hunch Primroses arc exception¬ 
ally fine, possessing attractive colours, and 
the growing of them, as well as of the com¬ 
mon woodland sort, we have before advocated 
in these columns. How often the question is 
raised as to what can be grown under trees, 
or the shady side of a garden ! How fre- 
j quently, too, one notices Quick hedges in 
gardens used as dividing fences at the foot of 
| which nothing is grow n ! This is just the 
I spot for Primroses. At the moment I write 
these notes I have in my mind’s eye a garden 
! where there is such a hedge, some 50 yards 
' or more in length, and the narrow border 
| skirting the path is a mass of Primroses, 
the result of a few plants taken from a w’ood 
n few years ago, which shed their seed, the 
I young "plants being carefully transplanted, 

I qnd so there is now quite a colony of therp. 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 











190 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


June 8, 1907 


As is well known, in the woodland, moisture, 
coolness, and shade prevail; it is, therefore, 
essential that, ns far as possible, these con¬ 
ditions should obtain in the garden. Rich 
soil means a corresponding richness in the 
quality of flowers, and the compost beet 
suited for them is one of loam, leaf-soil, 
and rotted manure, with sharp coarse sand. 
Seed may be sown at this time of the year 
either in a prepared bed or in a cold-frame or 
in boxes, and plants resulting therefrom will 
bloom another spring. Primroses are useful 
for spring bedding, as by the time the posi¬ 
tions are wanted for the summer plants they 
have ceased to bloom, and may then be 
shifted without any detriment. Iu planting 
them under trees it is well to remember that 
they will not stand dryness without suffering, 
and, therefore, soil should be made rich with 
the addition of rotted manure, which will do 
a deal towards keeping the roots cool and 
moist. Amongst the bunch Primroses we 
have many that are possessed of rich colours, 
as rose and blue, mauve and primrose and 
white, and for planting in masses they rival 
the Wallflowers in the spring. The double 
forms arc less met with, inasmuch as they 
are not raised from seed, and their propaga¬ 
tion is by division, but we have in the single 
forms many that are of great beauty wheu 
massed together. In shrubberies, under 
Silver Birches, Limes, and Thorns, etc., 
when these are putting out their new growth 
in April the Primroses make a fitting carpet-, 
ami give a beauty to any garden. It is not, 
of course, absolutely necessary that Prim¬ 
roses should be shifted every season, but, as 
we have said, the quality of the flowers is 
best retained thereby. One sees examples 
of this in the woodland, as often the best 
flowers are found on stray plants that have 
been produced from seeds blown into some 
cool and moist half shady place. Precisely 
the same conditions, as far as possible, should 
lip provided in the garden if success is to be 
achieved.] 

AURICULAS. 

Whether due to a late season or lo a shrink 
age of growers, or members, the recent 
Southern exhibition of the National Auricula 
Society, at the Horticultural Hall, was very 
limited, so far as Auriculas were concerned. 

It- is regrettable such should be the case, be¬ 
cause these hardy flowers, whether show or 
alpine, yet invariably grown in pots under 
glass, are, on the whole, comparatively easy 
to cultivate, and whilst to the genuine fancier 
the shows may have most interest, to the 
amateur or general public without doubt the 
alpines appeal. Hod the collections staged 
by that veteran grower. Mr. J. Douglas, and 
one other trader been absent, the show would 
have been poor indeed. In some previous 
years “shows” came in considerable num¬ 
bers from Lancashire, but exhibitors there¬ 
from are no longer in evidence, hence the 
show suffers. It is by no means improbable 
that the numerous other hardy spring flower¬ 
ing plants at disposal, so much cheaper, 
and easily grown, have proved to be formid¬ 
able competitors of the Auricula ; yet none 
have just those qualities which have made 
the Auricula so dear to the true florist. 
These plants will, because hardy, do well 
during the winter in a cold-frame or green¬ 
house, and it is possible to grow quite a large 
collection of both shows and alpines iu a 
small space. Plants never need be in larger 
pots than 48’s. and a few score of these will 
stand in a fair-sized frame. But whilst 
plants, if ever so strong, will do well and 
bloom beautifully in due course, it is not 
always possible to have them in bloom at a 
given time, such as is a show fixture, arid it 
is assumed that because we have had a some¬ 
what long, cold winter plants have been more 
than usually backward. But whilst doing so 
well in cool houses or frames, Auriculas are 
impatient of warmth, if furnished too freely. 
Still, growers who have light greenhouses, 
with their plants near the glass, can materi 
ally accelerate their blooming by a week or 
two if a very gentle, even temperature of 
about 45 degs. be maintained. In cold houses 
in March and April temperature often falls to 


perature, therefore, makes all the difference, 
and it is fair to assume that the plants, both 
shows and alpines, so beautifully flowered at 
the .recent exhibition, had enjoyed a little 
warmth for a few weeks prior to the show. 
Amateur growers, however, who make the 
mistake of pushing belated plants on into 
bloom rapidly in greater warmth, would find 
out their error quickly. 

When plan Us in pots are kept quite cold 
through the winter, even getting occasionally 
frozen, there is danger that if kept too moist, 
the roots may suffer, and the soil swell and 
burst the pots. On the other hand, roots 
will suffer if kept too dry. and therein lies 
the happy medium of keeping the soil just 
damp, and no more. When soil is allowed to 
become too dry, the dreaded woolly aphis often 
gets a foothold, and once it does it is very 
difficult to destroy. Like to all the higher 
forms of the Primula family, Auriculas are 
not great rooters. They like clean pots, 
moderate drainage, a fairly firm soil, compris¬ 
ing old turfy loam two-thirds, the other third 
being composed of well-decayed cow manure, 
quite old leaf-soil, sharp sand, a little soot, 
and a light admixture of bone-flour. In such 
compost, and general culture being good, 
plants always do well. So much reference 
to Auriculas does not include the Border 
section, to which attention has frequently 
been called. Generally at present a dull- 
coloured and unattractive race of hardy gar¬ 
den flowers, there is great scope in them for 
improvement. These, unfortunately, get no 
attention from the Auricula Society. 

D. 


Wallflowers, Forge t-me-Nots, Aubrietias, 
Arabia, double Daisies, and such-like, and as 
I have already pointed out, they give even 
less trouble than any of these, because they 
can be sown and replanted at a season when 
there is less pressure of other work, and, 
once set out on a suitable space, they give 
little further trouble beyond keeping clean. 

W. Strug nell. 


freezing point, hen-c* growth 
tarded. A ratherMiightfr'tend 



POLYANTHUSES AT FORDE ABBEY. 
For eighteen years Mr. John Crook has had 
charge of the gardens and grounds attached 
to Forde Abbey, Chard, and during that 
time, and fur some years previous, lie lias 
been selecting the Polyanthuses. To those 
acquainted with the labour attendant on the 
improvement of any kind of flower by seed 
raising, it is at once clear that only after 
many years can any real advance be made. 

It is not sufficient to raise seeds and when 
the flowering season is over to throw the 
plants away and provide more ; but instead 
there is the eliminating of the inferior varie¬ 
ties and selecting and saving seed of the .bet¬ 
ter forms. Mr. Crook, whose name is 
familiar to the readers of Gardening 
Illustrated, has devoted years of patient 
study to the betterment of these modest 
spring flowers, until now he claims to have 
secured a strain as good as can possibly be 
hoped for to day. Hundreds of plants crowd 
the borders in various parts of the garden, 
and these breadths of intermingling colours 
are beautiful in the extreme. To .attempt to 
name the various shades which abound would 
be difficult. 

The old-fashioned gold-laced Polyanthuses 
are not much in evidence in the Forde Abbey 
collection, the bolder decorative kinds being 
the aim of this raiser. They have been made 
a study of from a strictly garden point of 
view, the rigid rules of the old-time florist 
being disregarded to some extent. Size of 
flower and fine colour are the end aimed at. 1 
have recently seen plants furnishing beds and 
borders on a large scale, but the strains were 
such that the pleasure usually derivable from 
inspection has been absent, because the 
colours were dull, flowers small, and char¬ 
acters undecided. Polyanthuses have a large 
claim on the sympathies of the gardener, for 
there is scarcely another plant which comes 
into bloom so early, and gives such a long sea¬ 
son at so little labour and cost. A sowing may 
be made in autumn outdoors, leaving the 
seedlings during the winter in the seed-bed. 
As good results may be obtained by sowing 
in boxes in February or March, which will 
afford plants ready for planting out in May 
in nursery beds, where they can remain till 
the autumn. Some claim they can do better 
by spring than by autumn sowing, but this re¬ 
solves itself into a matter of locality and con¬ 
venience. Mr. Crook’s plants occupy almost 
every aspect except direct south, but it is 
noticed they continue longer in perfection 
when they are not exposed to the full force 
of the sun. To fill up the flower-beds in win¬ 
ter these Polyanthuses contrast well with! 


NOTES AND EE ELIES. 

Slime on ponds. -Can you tell me how 1 can keep 
down the preen slime which prows in u pond in 
my pardon? The pond is of cement, and was 
thoroughly cleaned out a few months ago. The water 
when it flows into the pond is clean and good, but the 
inflow is small. Is there anything I can use to pre¬ 
vent the slime, which will not interfere with the 
growth of aquatic plants? I may also mention that 
the water is used in the garden iu the ordinary way. 
-M. C. Curry (Col.). 

[There are several growths in ponds that 
might come under the general term you 
allude to, and the first tiling to do is to find 
out what it i«. These water plants have 
curious ways, in that they come without 
notice in masses, and sometimes disappear 
with equal quickness. Waterfowl help in 
keeping down such plants, but they interfere 
with the growth of Water Lilies.—E d.] 
Hedgehogs in gardens. Are hedgehogs destruc¬ 
tive in a kitchen-garden- for instance, to Vegetable 
Marrow or Pea-plants, etc.?—II. V. 

[Hedgehogs are. as a rule, useful creatures 
in’ gardens, as they feed on insects, slugs, 
and worms. Their diet is, however, very 
varied, as they do not despise small animals, 
birds’ eggs, snakes, roots, and fruit.] 

Wallflowers. The past winter has been a 
rather trying one for the tall-growing varie¬ 
ties of Wallflower, and, where exposed to the 
full limit of the north easterly winds in 
January last, the ranks have been somewhat 
thinned. Where sheltered from the effects 
of tiie cruel blast the plants fared much tet¬ 
ter. They commenced flowering quite as 
early as one could expect when the severity of 
the past winter is taken into consideration, 
and have been affording an abundance of 
flowers for .cutting, as well as heightening 
the floral display in the mixed borders for 
some, time past. ‘ The tall or early flowering 
varieties associate well with Daffodils, 
Tulips, and other spring flowering subjects, 
and with a little care can be planted so that 
the more legitimate occupants of the borders 
arc not interfered with. The dwarfer varie¬ 
ties, which are equally beautiful, are later in 
flowering than the later kinds, but this does 
not render them any the less valuable, as 
they afford a fine succession of bloom, and 
may be depended on to suffer less from frost 
effects. 1 usually sow Wallflower seed of all 
varieties the second week in May, and trans¬ 
plant to firm ground as soon as the plants are 
large enough. So treated nice bushy speci¬ 
mens are -formed by autumn, which can be 
lifted and transplanted to beds and borders 
without much loss of roots or soil.- A. \\ . 

— One is interested in the note from 
“Dorset ” on the subject of “Wallflowers and 
the frost,” and it may be said that in this 
part of Scotland there is a somewhat similar 
experience, although in a considerable num¬ 
ber of gardens where the plants were not ex¬ 
posed to the cold winds these favourite 
plants have suffered but little. Iu a num¬ 
ber of gardens many of the plants have died, 
while in others the vast majority are so 
crippled as to be of little use as ornamental 
plants. The question of their early treat¬ 
ment has, undoubtedly, a good deal to do 
with the condition of the plants. Those 
which were properly cultivated at first, raised 
under hard conditions, which made for 
sturdiness, and which were allowed plenty of 
room for development, accompanied by full 
exposure to the air all round, have suffered 
hardly at all, even in more exposed situa¬ 
tions. On the other hand, those which were 
sown thickly, left badly thinned, and grown 
much too closely together during the summer 
and early autumn, have been miserable in 
the extreme, and the greater number of losses 
has been among such plants. Those who 
have time to care properly for their Wall¬ 
flowers will find tha^ thin sowing, early prick 
I ing out, and a subsequent planting with 
full space, for proper development, and on 


URE 


:ha 





June S, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


191 



rather hard soil, will give much the best 
plants. When I grew more Wallflowers than 
now, I was in the habit of pinching out the 
tops of the plants a short time before they 
received their second transplanting, this 
latter being performed when the Wallflowers 
had begun to break away again after pinch¬ 
ing. If they were early I gave them a second . 
pinching, w r ith the result that each plant be¬ 
came very bushy and gave a number of spikes, I 
and was quite different from those we see I 
which have been neglected and grown in close 
lines until the season for planting out in the ] 
borders or beds comes round. As “Dorset” j 
remarks, it is seldom that plants on walls 
suffer from frost, and the Wallflower does not 
like or require a rich soil, especially in a 
moist district, such as the west of Scotland. 
Like many other hardy flowers, the Wall I 
flower thrives under hard conditions, and 1 
proves much more satisfactory than if culti 


soms are hardly elevated by their short stalks ' 
above the leaves, and the whole effect of the j 
plant is that of a carpet of green decorated | 
with little flowers. Its creeping habit, where , 
it thrives, soon causes the formation of a I 
neat little carpet. The dwarf Mazus, which 
belongs to the Figwort family, owes its name 
to the little tubercles or protuberances which 
practically fill up the mouth of the corolla, 
and which have been considered to resemble 
a teat, the word Mazus signifying this. Al¬ 
though generally hardy in our climate, and 
thriving well in an open and sunny position 
on the rockery, Mazus pumilio is a little dif¬ 
ficult to establish in some districts, and it 
will be found more amenable to cultivation if 
a number of small flat stones are placed 
about the plant and partly sunk in the soil, 
so as to conserve the moisture. Loam, with 
the addition of some sand, is the liesfc com¬ 
post, and it can be rapidly increased by 


Geranium Fremontii. (See page 189.) 


vated in ricb and well manured soil.—S. 
Arnott, Dumfries. 

The dwarf Mazus (Mazus Pumilio). 
Among the few Tasmanian alpine plants 
which have found their way into our gardens, 
a general favourite with those who know it is 
Mazus Pumilio, one of the neatest and 
dwarfest of our alpine flowers, seeing that it 
only reaches a height of from 3 inches to 
4 inches. Although in cultivation in this 
country for upwards of eighty years, it is a 
Btranger to many who appreciate alpines, 
and is seldom recognised when seen, save by 
the comparatively few who have made its 
acquaintance in their own gardens or else¬ 
where. It is far from bdng showy, yet is 
distinctly pleasing, with its rather wrinkled- 
looking leaves, which incline to lie close to 
the soil, and its little pale purple or violet 
blooms/ brightened biT Their white lin^es, 
and appearing from ly. VJ^^blos¬ 


division, either in spring or immediately I 
after flowering is completed.—S. Arnott. 

Violettas in the early spring. — Seldom 
have wo seen these look so promising. The 
original of the type, Violetta, is represented I 
by very healthy looking little tufts, and this 
variety, like the majority of its progeny, will j 
not flower for a little while yet. However, 
when the blooms are developed, they are al¬ 
ways appreciated, because of their chaste 
appearance and lw?nutiful form, and also be¬ 
cause of their delicious Almond-like perfume. 
There are beautiful white seedling Violettas 
with a very neat rayless yellow eye, and de- 1 
void of that suffusion of yellow' colour on the 
lower petal. Most gratifying of all is the 
fact that the lilac and lavender colours are | 
now represented in these flowers, and in some 
of the kinds the flowers are borne on long, 
erect footstalks well above the foliage. Some ; 
of the blue shades are very pretty, notably 


in Rock Blue, Eileen, and Mona. The first- 
mentioned is rather larger than most other 
Violettas, and in its earliest stages of flower¬ 
ing the blossoms are neatly rayed. In time 
the rays disappear. This variety is now in 
full blossom, and makes a splendid carpet of 
growth. It is ideal for the rook garden or 
for massing. A lovely bicolor is Miss Ger¬ 
trude Jekyll, the colour being primrose and 
yellow.— D. B. Crane. 

Pentstemon Cobaea and others. -The 
illustrations of this and P. grandiflorus, given 
in your issue of April 13th, with the accom¬ 
panying notes, should be most helpful to all 
lovers of Pentsteinous, and should do much 
to induce others to cultivate them. Having 
grown this and many of those named in the 
article, I agree with all there said as to their 
value in the open garden. P. Cobiea is a 
grand kind, answering to the description 
given. Some twenty years ago, when 
residing in North Hants, on a light 
well-drained soil I grew P. Cobsea, P. 
barbatus, P. Murrayanus, P. azure us, 
P. Ilartwegi, P. Torreyi, and others 
largely. I have seen many plants go 
on for four or five years. My custom 
was to raise a few young plants 
yearly by putting in in autumn a few 
cuttings taken from the base of the 
plant. Those were wintered in a c old- 
frame. In this way I always had 
abundance of healthy plants. Another 
way, when any stock showed weak¬ 
ness, was to save a little seed, sow¬ 
ing it in the early part of the year, 
bringing the seedlings forward in the 
way advised for seedlings at page 83. 
Regarding their hardiness. I may add 
that some five years since I sowed a 
shilling packet of seed from a reliable 
source, and obtained 300 or 400 
plants, more or less good. These 
were planted on a border facing east, 
and have remained in a healthy con¬ 
dition tilL now, being protected by a 
few leaves that blew- amongst them. 

J. C. 

The best Tufted Pansies for tho 
flower garden. Will anyone who 
has wide experience in Tufted Pan¬ 
sies say which are of distinctive 
colour tlie best six for the flower gar¬ 
den? Nothing can be less helpful in 
making a selection of these plants 
than seeing a collection of flowers 
staged for exhibition. Many of these 
are too large, many lack decided 
colour, not a few have loose, strag¬ 
gling habits, and are none too free 
bloomers. A good Tufted Pansy 
should have not densely, but fairly 
compact growth, bloom profusely, 
and for a long season, have flowers 
of well-defined colours, of medium 
size, its far as possible rayless, and 
such as when seen in bulk form a 
charming and effective mass. Gener¬ 
ally the most desirable seifs are pure 
white, the best, so far, of which is 
Virgin White, and almost a repro¬ 
duction in white of Royal Sovereign ; 
with me, the best yellow. The best 
blues are Bridnl Morn, soft blue, and 
True Blue, of deeper hue. Of reddish 
tints none seems better than J. B. 
Riding, and of plum colour The Mearne. Can 
this list be improved upon? D. 

The Rosy Loosestrife. —Because the Loose¬ 
strife is naturally a water-loving or semi- 
aquatic plant, it must not Ik? assumed that it 
will not thrive well in ordinary garden soil. 
The Rosy-Loosestrife figured on page 167 is, 
without doubt, the finest of all the Loose¬ 
strifes, but yet so seldom seen in gardens. 
I hnve annually met with it in a cottage gar¬ 
den at Epsom in strong plants nearly 4 feet 
in height, blooming profusely, and quite re¬ 
mote from water. If I were making a special 
selection of hardy perennials. I should cer¬ 
tainly include this Rosy Lytlirum a6 one of 
the best.—A. D. 

A white Iris Germanics. -Is there such a thing 
as a white Iris Gerinanica or a white I. pumila? I 
have been trying to get one for years, and have 
bought them again and again. When they hnve 
flowered I have had dark-purple, yellow, azure, two 
sorts *'f grey, and florentina. but n \er a white, and 
I begin to doubt if such a thing exists.—D on. 






192 


GARDENING ILL ULTRA TE D. 


June 8, 1907 



INDOOR PLANTS. 

THE PURPLE WREATH (PETRA5A 
VOLUBILIS). 

This is a pretty stove-climbing plant, far 
more frequently met with in days gone by 
than it is now, when, for some reason or 
other, it is much neglected. Native of a 
considerable tract of country in tropical 
America, it is also cultivated as an outdoor 
climber in many of the warmer regions of 
the globe, ana, if allowed to festoon 
neighbouring trees, it is, when laden with 
flowers, a very beautiful object. This 
Petraea is of free growth, with deep green 
ovate leaves, rather leathery in texture, while 
the blossoms arc borne in long, pendent 
racemes. The individual blooms consist of 
two quite distinct parts, for the calyx is split 
up into live strap-shaped segments of a 
mauve colour, while the corolla, which is set 
just in the centre, is of a deep purple hue. 
The corolla does not last very long in beauty, 
and it then drops, leaving the star-shaped 
calyx, whch remains bright and fresh for a 
considerable period. This peculiarity is very 
noticeable when a large plant is in full bloom, 
for on some of the racemes all the corollas 
will have dropped, thus leaving what appears 
to be star-shaped blossoms, but which are, in 
reality, the calyces, while the newer racemes 
will be clothed with perfect blossoms. Some 
will have both the perfect and partially- 
dropped flowers on the same racemes, thus 
leading the uninitiated to look upon the 
plant as producing two kinds of blossoms. 

Like many other free-growing climbers, this 
Petraea succeeds best when planted out in a 
prepared bed in the stove, while it must 
not be shaded more than is absolutely neces¬ 
sary. Beside the typical kind, which was 
introduced as long ago as 1733, there is a 
white-flowered variety, but this is very 
scarce. It belongs to the Verbena family, 
and, in common with most of its class, is 
not at all a difficult subject to propagate from 
cuttings of the half-ripened shoots taken in 
the spring or early summer, inserted into 
pots of sandy soil, and placed in a close pro¬ 
pagating case in a warm house. The flower¬ 
ing period is, as a rule, during the latter 
part of the spring, and well on into the 
summer. X. 

NOTES AND REPLIES. 

The Candle plant (Cacalia articulata).— I have 
a curious pot plant, which grows in a Cactus¬ 
like form; but with tufts of very tenderly brittle 
leafage. Yet it seems to have great vitality, aud is 
ualled here the Candle-plant. That name 1 cannot 
lind in any dictionary. Will you kiudly inform me its 
proper scientific name, etc.? It does not seem to be 
commonly grown.—J ames Hooper, Norwich. 

[This old-fashioned succulent used to be 
very popular as a window plant, a purpose for 
which it is well adapted, but nowadays it is* 
seldom seen. The plant is rather singular as 
regards growth. It has a straight, cylindri¬ 
cal, fleshy stem, of almost uniform thickness, 
but tapering abruptly at the top. Its leaves, 
which are produced upon the current season’s 
growth, are deeply lobed, and the whole plant 
is of a clear glaucous green, and is covered 
with a delicate- powdery bloom. At the com¬ 
mencement of the summer the leaves die 
right off, and this is the time to form a speci¬ 
men, which may be effected in the following 
manner : Take a 4-inch or 6-inch pot, drain 
it well, and fill it with a good, light, free 
compost; in this insert the stems, putting 
several of the longest in the centre, and 
arranging the remainder somewhat irregu¬ 
larly, according to their length, finishing off 
by placing a row of the smaller round the 
edge of the pot. There will be no difficulty 
in finding stems of the required height, as 
some will be composed of several joints, the 
growth of successive years. Place the pot so 
filled in a greenhouse or frame, or in a win¬ 
dow in the full sun, and the stems will soon 
begin to grow. By the beginning of winter 
we shall, therefore, have a very pretty and 
unique specimen, which will be'a source of 
pleasure the whole winter through. It thrives 
well in a window, and requires but little at 
tention, bearing, without apparent distress, 
any neglect in the way of watering to which 
it may be subjected^ Although the flowers 
are ijo[ very sbow^tliev-aco from 


the fact of their being produced in mid-win¬ 
ter, when blooms of any kind are so welcome.] 

Hoya bella.— Will you kindly give some particu¬ 
lars as to the culture of Hoya bella? It is more in 
respect of flowering—my plant is very healthy, but 
all the bloom-trusses turn yellow and drop off. Is it 
because of over-watering? I keep it fairly damp, and 
in a temperature of about 7o degs. to 75 degs. I 
cannot get any directions from the gardeners about 
here—in fact, uot many seem to know it. It is u 
great favourite of mine, and, years ago, I used to 
flower it well, but seem to have forgotten how to 
manage it now. I think I am about right in tem¬ 
perature. Your reply will be welcome. —H. II. Bal- 
suaw. 

[This Hoya requires more heat to grow it 
well than is afforded by au ordinary green¬ 
house, as it is really a stove plant, and 
thrives best where there is plenty of heal, 
moisture, and shade. This Hoya succeeds 
very well in a basket, first lining the basket 
with common Moss, to prevent the soil falling 
through between the wires. Plant in a com¬ 
post of rough, fibrous peat, two parts to one 


make as much leafage as possible, as through 
that crowns are produced. Later on this 
leafage will die away, leaving dormant roots. 
Early in the year, if the plants are kept in a 
greenhouse, they begin to push new leafage 
! and flowers. If the crowns in the pots are 
few, do not repot. If they are many and 
thick, then break up the clumps, put the 
strongest crowns, to the number of four or 
six, into 5 inch pots, and the weaker ones 
more thickly, to grow into stronger one6 for 
a succeeding year.] 

Nicotiana Sanderae.— Now that we have 
such a wide range of colour in the flowers of 
this Nicotiana the plants are extremely valu- 
able for decoration, but, at the same time, 
j their grouping needs to be xvell considered. 
An arrangement of mixed colours results only 
in a confused mass, without any artistic 
beauty whatever. In the greenhouse at Kew 
several varieties are represented, varying in 


Part of flowering 1 shoots of the Purple Wreath (Petraea volubilis). From a photograph in 
Messrs. Veitch and Sou’s nursery at Chelsea. 


of loam and Laf-soil, with some silver sand 
added, according to the nature of the loam. 
If you cannot grow in a basket, then a pot 
will do as well, but not a large one—one into 
which the roots will go without cramping 
them too much is large enough. Abundance 
of water is necessary while growth is being 
made, but at other times but little is 
required.] 

Primula Sieboldi not flowering -1 have six 
Primula Sieboldi, bought and potted Inst autumn. 
They were repotted in March. They have healthy 
foliage, but have not bloomed. One of them appears 
now to be going to rest. Will you kindly say what is 
the cause of non-flowering?—1). K. DlCKH VM. 

[The probable cause of your plants of Pri¬ 
mula Sieboldi not flowering is that the crowns 
potted originally were not strong enough to 
carry blooms. The crowns from which leaves 
come first, then flowers, are on the ends or 
points Of rhizome roots, and all depends on 
the stoutness and strength of these. You should 
keep your present plants cool and moderately 
well watered, so as to induce them to 


! tint, from white, or nearly so, to deep purple, 
sufficient plants of each colour to form a bold 
| group being used. The most effective are 
the white, deep rose, crimson, nnd rich 
purple, the various intermediate shades (par¬ 
ticularly those in which light purple and 
I lilac predominate) being comparatively dull 
and unattractive. It is given to very few 
plants to attain the same amount of popu¬ 
larity in so short a time as this Nicotiana has 
done, it being now fully established in most 
gardens. Not only is it valuable when grown 
in pots, but for flowering out-of-doors during 
the summer it is equally satisfactory. — 
G. S. C. 


“The English Flower Garden and Homo 
Grounds .”—New Edition, 10th, revised, with descrip, 
lions of all the best plants, trees, and shrubs, their 
culture and arrangement, illustrated on wood. Cloth, 
medium, 8vo., iff.-* post free, lbs. 6d. 

“ The English Flower Garden ” may also be 
' ■ . - • ‘ Of 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



JcNK 1907 


Garlemng illustrated. 


193 


GARDEN WORK. 


Conservatory. —The time is near when 
some of the hardiest plants may have their 
annual outing. As 6oon as the weather is 
quite settled. Orange-trees in tubs or pots 
may be placed outside in a sheltered spot. 
Large plants in tubs may be placed on the 
terrace after standing in a sheltered place 
for a time to harden the foliage. Some of 
the hardiest Palms may be plunged out on a 
sheltered spot- towards the end of June. 
Many other things will be nil the better for 
a couple of months’ open-air treatment; and 
then the question arises : What shall we fill 
up with? Fuchsias will soon be at their 
best. Well-grown Achimenes will make a very 
handsome group, and they may be used to 
fill baskets. Hydrangeas in tubs or large 
pots are useful, and those who like to go to 
the expense may have retarded Lilies. 
Balsams and Cockscombs, when well done,are 
useful, and a fine specimen of such things as 
Bougainvillea, when elevated, looks well, and 
gives a colour which is not obtained from any 
other plant. Then there are Zonal Pelar¬ 
goniums, Begonias, and some of the old- 
fashioned scented-leaved Geraniums would 
be appreciated. Where fragrance is sought, 
a group of Tuberoses will be nice and lasting 
in the temperature of the conservatory. A 
little air may be left on all night now. If 
rightly managed, there may be a good deal of 
floral beauty and fragrance in the climbers 
now or shortly. Mandevilla suaveolens is 
specially sweet when permitted to ramble 
about. 

Stove plants. Tf there is a small, low 
house available, by keeping it close and 
lightly shaded most of the small, young, grow¬ 
ing stock may be moved to it, to make room 
for the growing specimens. No one can grow 
good specimens in a crowded house, and 
Caladiums and other things require opening 
out to develop their foliage. If Eucharis 
Lilies require repotting, this will be a good 
time to do it. but, ns a rule, these flower best 
when not disturbed very often. The best 
course is to shift the bulbs on and not break 
them up very often. There cornea a time 
when large pots full must be broken up, but 
we usually defer that operation as long as 
the plants keep healthy and flower well. 
Everybody knows now the way to make them 
flower by cooling down and resting, but I re¬ 
member fifty years ago there was for a time 
6 ome difficulty until the right method was 
discovered. So long as the plants remain 
healthy and vigorous there is not much 
trouble with the mite. Well flowered plants 
of Bougainvillea will be moved to the con¬ 
servatory, and there will, probably, lie other 
things that will be moved later, and in the 
autumn something will probably have to be 
sacrificed to make room. Pans may be filled 
with Selaginellas, Tradescantias, and Pani¬ 
c-urn variegatum, as a use will be found for 
them during the autumn and winter. Keep 
fires down as much as possible, especially in 
the morning when the sun shines. 


Ferns under glass. -We are often in the 
same position with Ferns as we are with 
stove plants : we want more room; but 
young Ferns from the boxes, just potted off, 
will do very well in a small, low house or 
pit, the light subdued by limewash or sum¬ 
mer cloucY. Where many Cyclamens are 
grown it will soon be time to move the 
earliest seedlings into 9-inch pots, and they 
will do very well in cold frames on coal ash- 
beds lightly shaded in hot weather, freely- 
ventilated and sprinkled during the after¬ 
noon, closing for a short time, then opening 
the ventilators and leaving open all night. 
If kept too clos?, the foliage will become 
drawn and weakly. In a small way we make 
a specialty of Cyclamens, and we shade as 
little as possible, but ventilate freely. They 
must be potted in good turfy loam and leaf- 
mould, with a free admixture of sand. The 
pots should be well drained. Ferns and 
Palms which require more pot room may be 
shifted now'. Sometimes Palme have a ten¬ 
dency to grow out of the pot. When this 
takes place, there is no harm done by cutting 
away the bottom roots, so as to get the ball 


deeply into the pots, 
large plants in this 


s. I Jhhc treated s<wr< 
is wfcr, Haling 


•eral 


some good stuff, and they soon make good 
roots again, and make better foliage. Kentias 
I have often treated in this way with advan¬ 
tage. Palms and Ferns must have shade 
and a moist atmosphere. 

Thinning late Crapes.— We ought not to 
lay down any hard-and-fast rule for Grape 
thinning. Grapes that will be cut as soon 
as ripe need not be thinned so much as when 
they are expected to keep till February or 
later. In the latter case the bunches should 
be thinned sufficiently for tl** air to circulate 
freely among the berries. Another matter 
that should nave some weight with us is the 
condition of the Vines, and how we intend to 
feed. Vigorous Vines in good health on a 
well-drained border cannot very well be over¬ 
done with rich top dressings on the surface, 
and Vines, when well nourished, will produce 
very large berries, and the bunches must be 
thinned to meet the free growth of berries. 
In other words, the person who thins the 
Grapes should be perfectly acquainted with 
the history and condition of the Vines and 
their root-run, and then he will not be likely 
to make a mistake. 

Ripening Peaches. Trees in pots must, of 
course, have enough water to keep the roots 
fresh and healthy, but an excess of moisture 
at the finish will certainly' injure the flavour, 
and a close atmosphere will have a some¬ 
what similar effect. Therefore, at this sea¬ 
son a Peach-house, where the fruits are 
ripening, should never be altogether closed, 
and the rule is to leave the upper ventilator 
sufficiently open to cause a circulation with¬ 
out creating a draught. A small opening 
along the ridge will suffice for this. There 
are, of course, nights in June and July so 
warm that if all the ventilators wore open 
no harm would be done. 

Baskets of Ferns indoors. For a large 
hall or a long, wide corridor we want large, 
spreading plants. Nephrolepis exaltata and 
Phlebodium aureum meet this want when 
well done, and a well-developed plant of the 
Elk’s-horn (Platycerium a lei cor ne) is very 
attractive. The Japanese Fern-balls are well 
enough in small rooms, and are easily man¬ 
aged. All basket Ferns must lx? taken down 
to be watered. If taken down early in the 
morning they will have dried sufficiently to 
hang up again by ten o’clock, and, as a rule, 
a dip in a tank or bath once a week will 
suffice. 

Outdoor garden. Sow Sweet Peas for 
late blooming. Do not permit seed-pods to 
form on plants now in bloom, unless it is in¬ 
tended to save seeds from any of the new 
varieties. Give liquid-manure freely, and 
mulch with good manure on both sides of thd 
rows or round the clumps. Thin hardy 
annuals freely. They will flower longer and 
better if mulched between the plants with a 
little old hot-bed manure which has been 
passed through a half inch sieve. Some of 
the most robust annuals may be transplanted 
if required during the present showery 
weather. Most people sow the Sweet Peas 
too thicWy, but they can easily be thinned to 
3 inches, and the thinnings planted else¬ 
where, as they transplant well when 2 inches 
or 3 inches high. Thin the buds of Roses, 
where too numerous, if flue blooms are 
wanted. This tends to create a succession. See 
that the stakes and ties of standard Roses 
are sound and in good condition. Begonias 
and other tender things may be safely planted 
now, if they have been hardened by exposure. 
Subtropical or leaf bedding may be done 
now also. This does not usually form a part 
of any geometrical design, but isolated 
beds or masses may be made interesting 
where much variety is desired. Everything 
which requires support should be staked in 
good time and tied neatly—not in bunches. 
If fine spikes of Phloxes are wanted, reduce 
them to three, and take them from plants 
which are not too old. 

Fruit garden. —Peaches and Apricots ap¬ 
pear to be abundant generally, and when that 
is the case there is always a danger of over¬ 
cropping. It is somewhat difficult to define 
the proper number of fruits a tree of any 
given size ought to carry, as so much de- 
|>ends upon the amount of nourishment given 
during the time the fruits are swelling. A 
well nourished Apricot tree will carry a very 


heavy load without injury. The greater pnrt 
of all fruits is simply moisture, and if during 
a dry time a little manurial mulch is placed 
on the surface of the border, with an occa¬ 
sional soaking of water until the fruits begin 
to ripen, there will not lie much injury from 
overcropping, therefore it pays to feed liber¬ 
ally a well-cropped tree, but as soon as the 
fruits begin to ripen discontinue watering 
and rake off and remove the mulch early in 
September, so that the sun may warm the 
roots and ripen the wood. There is a good 
prospect of a crop of Strawberries, and the 
ground now is thoroughly moist, therefore 
when the sunshine comes the fruits will swell 
rapidly. It will be well to remove any barren 
plants. There is mqre than one cause for 
blindness in Strawberries, but it is certainly 
unwise to propagate from fruitless plants. 
When runners are taken from young plants, 
remove all flowers and give the plants up to 
producing runners. 

Vegetable garden.— Plant out Vegetable 
Marrows and Ridge Cucumbers. If these are 
sown on a prepared bed in the open air and 
covered with hand-lights, and for home plant¬ 
ing such plants do very well if moved when 
small, before they begin to run, and shaded 
for a few days till established, they grow 
well. Sow such tender herbs as Basil 
and Summer Savory on a south border. 
Knotted or Sweet Marjoram is always in de¬ 
mand, and is often raised in heat for early 
use. If the dolphin-fly attacks Broad or 
Long-pod Beiyis, nip off the tops of the plants 
and remove with the insects and burn them. 
This very often mo-kos a clean sweep, if done 
in time. Sow Endives freely now. This sow¬ 
ing is not likely # t.o bolt, and the plants may 
be set out a foot apart when ready. Lettuces 
may he planted on the ridges between Celery 
trenches. I have had splendid Lettuces grown 
thus, showing what a good depth of soil will 
do. Those who want Radishes now should 
sow the Turnip or French Breakfast varie¬ 
ties. Make up Mushroom beds in the shade 
of a building in the open air. They will be 
sure to come in useful. It is only a question 
of a liberal supply of stable-manure. I am 
afraid many gardeners may have a difficulty 
in getting their usual supply of stable-manure 
now everybody uses motors. Sow Rampion, 
Chervil, and Sorrel. Mustard and Cress 
should be sown often. E. Hobday. 


THE COMING WEEK'S WORK. 

Extracts from a Garden Diary. 

June 10th .—We have still a few tender 
things to plant out. They will follow late 
Tulips and other things that were in flower, 
and which we did not want to disturb. We 
are waiting for a fine day, as we do not care 
to tread the ground when wet, though, of 
course, we use boards when planting. In 
planting Dahlias the stakes are driven in 
first and the Dahlias planted near the stakes, 
and a tie to connect the plants with the stakes 
will keep the plants secure. 

June 11th. Thinned Carrots, Parsnips, 
and Beet. Early Horn Carrots are not 
thinned much, os they are drawn for use 
when quite small. Prepared trenches for 
Celery and planted Iyettuccs on the ridges. 
Planted out more Vegetable Marrows and 
Ridge Cucumbers. Made another sowing of 
Marrow Peas. These are sown thinly in pre¬ 
pared trenches, the rows being isolated with 
others crops between. 

June. mh .—Pruned Lilacs from which the 
flowers have fallen. All the old flower-stems 
are cut off and the shrubs put into shape. 
Other flowering shrubs which require prun¬ 
ing will be treated on the same lines when 
the flowers fade, except Rhododendrons and 
hardy Azaleas, in the ease of which the seed- 
pods only will be removed. Young Conifers 
which have developed dual leaders have had 
the worst-placed shoot removed. Spiral - 
growing Conifers which require pruning will 
be attended to now. . 

June JSth .—Planted out scarlet Salvias, 
Eupatoriums, and Solanuins which are in¬ 
tended to be lifted in autumn. They always 
berry well outside, and, if lifted carefully, 
they scarcely lose a leaf. Part of the stock 
of Arum Lilies will be planted out and- a 
part grown an pots. The latter are, now out 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



194 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Juxk 8, 1907 


in the Aunnhine ripening. Tliey flower better 
when ripened in the sunshino. Hollyhocks 
and other plants requiring support have been 
staked and the growths of Phloxes thinned. 
These also will be mulched. 

June lJfth .— Placed Zonal Pelargoniums in¬ 
tended for winter flowering on coal ash-bed 
outside. All flowers will be picked off in the 
bud state, and the watering placed in careful 
hands, as a Pelargonium overwatered 
soon goes wrong. Chrysanthemums are 
now going into the flowering pots. This 
work will occupy sometime, and the most for¬ 
ward plants will be dealt with first. After 
potting, the plants will lie ranged in lines and 
tied to stakes secured to strained wires, with 
ample room to move among them. 

June 1/ifh .— Saturday morning is usually 
given up to making changes in the conserva¬ 
tory, and the oftener changes are made the 
more satisfactory the house is. Climbers 
want frequent training and regulating. 
Azaleas have been moved to another house, 
where the syringe can l>e used freely, to com¬ 
plete growth. Pegged down several beds of 
Verbenas, Phlox Urummondi, and Agera- 
tums. If left till the growth hardens the 
work is more difficult and results not so good. 
We want the beds covered as soon as possible. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

Questions. —Querim and answers are inserted in 
Gahdksixo free of charge if correspondents follow these 
rides: All communications should be clearly and concisely 
written on one side, of the paper only, and addressed to 
the EDITOR of tlABDBXINO, 17, Furnival-strect, Hoi berm, 
London, K.C. Letters on business should be sent, to the 
1'i iinsHKR. The name anil address of the sender are 
required in addition to any designation he, may desire to 
b>' used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, 
each should be on a separate piece of paper, amt not more 
than three queries should be sent at a time. Correspon¬ 
dents should bear in mind that, as Gardening has to be 
sent to press some time in advance, of date, queries cannot 
always be replied to in the issue immediately following 
the receipt of their communication. We do not reply to 
queries try post. 

Naming fruit.— Readers who desire our help in 
naming fruit should bear in miiui that several specimens 
in different stages of colour and size of the same kind 
greatly assist in its determination. We have received from 
several correspondents single specimens of fruits for 
naming, these in many cases being unripe and other¬ 
wise poor. The differences between varieties of fruits are 
in many cases so trifling that it is necessary that three 
specimens of each kind should be sent. We can undertake 
to name only four varieties at a time, and these only when 
the above directions arc observed. 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

Eucalyptus falling (Miss lligge).— lt may be 
that the Eucalyptus suffered from the severe frost 
last winter, ami is now showing the effects of it, or 
another possible reason is that the fun es from the 
stove have affected the foliage. All the kinds of 
Eucalyptus are very sensible to fumes of any kind, 
and a London fog will soon shrivel up the leaves 
of any of them. As your specimen is putting forth 
new leaves at the tips of the shoots, it is probably 
recovering from -its injury, mid in the course of the 
summer it may completely recover. 

Plants for damp corner (H.).— Some useful 
plants for the damp corner are: Geiitiann asclepiadca, 
Lilium pardalinum, L. can‘adensc, L. superbum, 
Primula japonica, P. Sieboldi in variety. P. dentiou- 
latu, P. rosea. Spiriea Aruneus, 8. illipendula, 
Ranunculus aconitifolius II.-pi., Trollius in variety, 
etc. The above-named Lilies would succeed best if 
sonic peat were added to the soil, and with peat- and 
leaf-soil some of the showiest of the hardy Cypri- 
pediums would do quite well, also Trillium grandi- 
florum. 

A plague of slugs (L. J. 7f.).-To destroy slugs 
get fresh lime, slack it in a dry shed, then at night— 
when the slugs are out-literally smother the ground 
with it. If you can do this for four or five weeks, 
alternating the lime dressing with one of fresh soot, 
you will destroy the slugs wholesale. The dressing 
must always be put on when the pests are feeding. 
You’must‘not mind if the dressings seem offensive, 
as they will do the soil great good. In the spring, 
when tender seedlings are coming up or fresh plants 
put out, similar dressings must be applied to kill any 
young slugs that may be about. 

Cheiranthue mutabilis (f. IP. I. S.).—It is 
quite within the order of things that this species 
presents blossoms of varying colours on a single spike 
of bloom. The flowers when first opened are creamy, 
and subsequently change to a purplish line, and 
sometimes arc striped. For the rest we can only 
imagine that the plants of the variety of C. alpinus 
you name have failed, and that all you now have or 
refer to is the •‘changing" Wallflower, as above 
named. Had you sent a few sprays of blossoms, with 
leaves and stem, we could have decided at once to 
which species the plants belong. 

Sweet Peas dying off (B. 7\).-As the Sweet 
Pea plants sent show, \< ur trouble with them does 
not lie in the roots or parts in the soil, but with the 
stems close to the surface, or, as we say, between 
wind and water. There is no evidence that insects 
have done any harm. The trouble looks more like 
scald or burn, as though the young plants had been 
dressed with some strong artificial manure or fresh 

Digitize - t v GCK glC 


soot, or watered with strong liquid-manure. We can 
give no ot her reason. There may be in your locality 
some factories or other works which emit poisonous 
gases, but, if so, all vegetation would equally suffer. 

It is possible the root-stems may break afresh, but 
there nre on the plants sent no evidence. Still, cut 
off all decaying tops, and leave the roots and stems 
to see what they will do. 

TREES AND SHRUBS. 

Propagating Lilacs > Ryccroft ).—Lilacs are very 
often increased by grafting on the Privet, but this 
method should on no account be followed, as it gener¬ 
ally results in the scion eventually dying, and its 
place being taken by the evil-smelling stock. You ran 
raise Lilac9 from sqeds sown in the open in a sunny 
position during spring or autumn; by lifting rooted 
suckers in the autumn or by layering shoots in Sep¬ 
tember. The pink Horse Chestnut is propagated by 
grafting on to the seedling trees of the rommon kind. 
One-year-old seedlings make the best stocks. 

The Mountain Laurel (Kalmia latifolia) 
(.4. C. 11 .).—This is tiie name of the specimen you 
send. It is one of the most beautiful of North Ameri¬ 
can evergreen" shrubs, Like the Rhododendron and 
Azalea, it must be grown in a peaty soil. It will not 
thrive in stiff or chalky soils. The lovely clusters of 
pink flowers open about the end of June in the open 
air, and last for about a fortnight in good condition. 
There are several varieties of the common form. 

FRl’IT. 

Apple twigs failing (Talbot We f;iif to detect 
anything tending to lead us to the belief that the 
mischief has been caused by a pith-boring insect, and 
can only conclude that the fault lies at the roots. 
We surmise tliat some of the latter have either pene¬ 
trated or come into contact with something of an 
injurious nature, or that the soil may be largely 
composed of gravel and sand. Again, the site where 
the tree is planted may have a wet subsoil, in con¬ 
sequence cither of faulty drainage or through the 
position being low-lying and from which surface 
water passes or drains away in an imperfe-ct main. 
Either of the foregoing would account for the young 
wood dying in the manner that which you send us 
has done, and we have before now witnessed cases 
where considerable damage has resulted from one or 
other of the causes specified. The remedy is to lift 
the tree about mid-October, and carefully examine 
the roots. If found in the condition we imagine 
them to be, cut back all that are decayed to 
where they are quite sound, and leave the cut sur¬ 
faces quite smooth, doing this with a sharp knife 
to avoid jagged edges, if unsuitable soil is the 
reason why the roots and young wood have died 
back, clear this out, not only that in which the tree 
was actually planted, but for some distance round, 
and not less than 2 feet in depth, to prevent a re¬ 
currence of the evil. Then provide sufficient and 
suitable compost, consisting principally of good, 
sound loam or garden soil, inclined to be heavy 
rather than too light, free of fresh manure, and 
transplant after freeing the tree of all dead or dying 
wood. If the subsoil is water-logged, the remedy is 
plainly obvious, but in case the draining off of the 
superfluous water cannot well be effected, place 
9 inches of brick rubbish in the bottom of the hole. 
Cover this with turves grass side down, then put 
1 foot of soil on top and plant the tree. If the hole 
is opened out 2 feet in depth, the lowermost roots of 
the tree would be 3 inches below the surrounding 
level, consequently, when the topmost roots are 
covered with a 3-inch layer of soil, and the latter is 
levelled and properly finished off', the tree would 
have the appearance of being planted on a mound. 
This is designated “station” planting by fruit¬ 
growers, and is generally adopted in eases where 
the ground cannot be efficiently druined in the usual 
manner. 

VEGETABLES. 

Mint failing (lames Rhilp ).—Your Mint has been 
attacked bv the Mint cluster-cup fungus (Puccinea 
menthre). We are afraid there is no cure for it, as 
the fungus is in the stems, in the lower part of which 
it passes the winter. The best tiling to do is to pull 
up all the infested plants and burn them, and plant 
some Mint from an untainted source in another part 
of the garden. We think the Carnations will grow 
out of the trouble, which is evidently due to weather 
influences. Give the plants a good mulching of rotten 
manure and water freely, if the weather is dry. 

Shallots turning yellow (Render).—It is so un¬ 
usual in our experience for Shallots to do badly and 
their leaves turn yellow on good ground, that, unless 
you may have planted bulbs from a diseased stock, 
an unlikely thing, some dressing or other lias been 
given to the ground in the form of manure that is 
offensive to the plants, or else that grubs or wire- 
worms are preying on the roots. It would be well 
were vou to lift a cluster of Shallots that looks 
specially sickly, with a quantity of soil, spreading it 
out on'to a newspaper, then examining it to see 
whether there were in it any evidences of insert life. 
Of course, if some harmful dressing has been applied, 
insects would not be the cause. In any case, a good 
dusting of lime hoed in may do good. In sending 
queries kindly read our rules as to giving name and 
address. 

Peas not growing (Boyle ).—After taking such 
precautions, wnen sowing your Peas, against both 
mire and birds, the only reason we can give for the 
failure of both Pea and Onion-seed to grow is that it 
must have been too old. That may seem a hard 
tiling to suggest, but other reason is difficult to find. 
We could wish you had examined the drills, to see 
what was the condition of the seeds. If they had 
quite disappeared, then mice would, in spite of your 
precautions, have eaten them, leaving a tunnel where 
the Peas were sown. Had wireworms eaten the stems, 
the seeds would remain, and certainly some would 
have grown. If the seeds were old, then on examin¬ 
ing them now you would find them mouldy and 
almost rotten, it makes the matter all the more 


strange that Onion-seed also should have done so 
badly. Possibly you sowed very early, whilst the 
ground was too cold. 


SHORT REPLIES. 


Chorlton.— It is difficult to suggest any likely 
reason from the dried-up scraps you send us. Judg¬ 
ing, ' however, by the roots, there scorns a lot of 
fungus in the soil,which is, no doubt, the cause of the 

failure. The seeds seem to have been poor.- 11. M. 

lloldsworth. — ln tlu* Kew “ Hand List of Trees and 
Shrubs," Berberis fnsciciilaris is given ns a variety of 
Berberis Aquifolium. It Is certainly distinct from the 
common B. Aquifolium, and is a really good garden 

plant.- An Amateur Grape-grower.— Get “ Vines 

and Vine Culture ” (Barron), price, post free, 5s. 6d., 

from 13, Sutton Court-road, Chiswick, London, W.- 

Gardening. —I, Yes, you can got. the book to which 
you refer through any bookseller. 2, You should get 
Hobday's “ Villa Gardening," which, we fancy, would 

most probably suit you.- Margot. — 1, What do you 

mean by a "Menthol cutting”? To make it bushy 
the only thing you can da is to pinch the top out, 
and so encourage it to branch out. Let the plants 
have more air. 2, Sow in a box or pan, and then 
transplant singly into another box, finally trans¬ 
ferring to the often air when the plants have been 
well rooted. 3, Far better purchase Lily of the Valley 

crowns and plant early in the autumn.- South 

Wales.— Quite impossible to suggest any reason for 
the yellowing of the leaves from the miserable scrap 
you send us, and no information as to the plant in 

any way.- A. II. Etches. — No.- Miss Ilannigan.— 

Without seeing the Vine it is very difficult for us to 
advise. You should ask a practical man in your 
neighbourhood to look at it and advise you as to 
what you had best do. We do not reply to queries by 
post.—J. R. C.— See reply to “ Sapolio,” re “ Double 
White Narcissi failing," in our issue of June 1, 

p. 178.- J. T. — lt is difficult to say, as you give us 

no idea as to how and where you arc growing the 
Ferns. It may be due to over-watering, or you may 

have allowed the plants to get too dry.- Oleander.— 

In all probability dryness is the cause. The ball 
\^ns very likelv dry when you planted out the 

Oleander', and it has never been properly wetted. 

You should have well soaked the ball of roots before 

planting.-IF. II. Lomas.— No cause for alarm. The 

red spots you refer to are known as the glands of 

the leaf. You cannot expect much fruit, if any. the 

first year after planting—in fact, it is all the better 

for Lhe welfare of the tree.- B. llminster.—l, The 

best thing you can do is to find their nests and then 
pour in boiling water. We have just done this, and 
have had no further trouble. 2, If you want to clear 
out the fungus you must destroy the turf and also 
dig up and clear away the soil in which the fungu* 
is growing.- J. Wit tie.— Without some further par¬ 

ticulars it is hard to say what is the cause. Seeing 
that the trouble is of long standing, the fault evi¬ 
dently is at the roots. The drainage of the border is, 
we fear, bad. ’1 his you can ascertain for yourself. 
-Dnndram.—The Apple-tree is eaten up with mil¬ 
dew. We can find no traces of American blight. 
Syringe the tree in the autumn, when the leaves have 
fallen, with the caustic alkali solution so often re¬ 
commended in these pages. 


NAMES OP PLANTS AND FRUITS. 


Names of plants.— Mrs. Thomson Sinclair.— 1, 
Primus pseudo-Cerasus; 2, l’yrus Malus floribunda; 

3, Pyrus spectabilis; 4, Spiriea prunifolia.- Jicks.— 

1, Spiriea arguta; 2, Spira-a caneseens var. flagelli- 

formis; 3, the Bird Cherry (Primus Padns).-Af. L. C. 

-The Creeping Forget-me-Not (Omphalodes versa). 
- Sigma. —Staphyleu colcliica. A.C. IF.—The Com¬ 
mon Yarrow (Achillea millefolium).- Mrs. Oliver.— 

1, The Bird Cherry (Primus Padus); 2, Ajuga geneven- 

sis.-Gardener.—1, Diplacus glutinosus; 2, Strepto- 

solen (Browallia) Jamesoni.- E. Swanwick.—Roae, 

probably George Nabonnnnd. Please send a half- 

opened flower and some of the wood with leaves.- 

F. IF. ./. .8.-1, Heuchera hispid a (syn. H. Richard- 
soni); 2, Saxifraga Cotyledon vnr. pyramidalis: 3, 
Saxifraga luntoseana.- Mr. Allen. —Evidently Nar¬ 

cissus hi Horns. It is very unfair to send such poor, 
dried-up specimens and expect us to name correctly. 

- ./. (’. J.-O lie of the Cresses, but impossible to 

say which. Please, if you can, send a complete speci¬ 
men.-IF. R.— Galax aphylla.- Robt. Greening.— 

l, The Common Comfrey (Symphytum officinale).— — 

Arbor.—Kerr ia japonica fl.-pl.-IF. Af.—Orchis 

mascula. We should have preferred a complete speci¬ 
men with leaves.- -.1. 11. M .—Akehia quinata.- 

A. Scott Smith.— Thujopsis dolabrata; badly grown. 

_ Holy wood.—The Soft Prickly Shield Fern (Poly- 

stichum angulare); a hardy variety.;— J. Af-—I, 
Spiraea caneseens; 2, Spiriea prunifolia; 3, Pterin 
japonica; 4, Kiaeagnus pun gens; 5, Ajuga genevensis. 

-J. IF. L— I, Saxifraga granulntn fl.-pl.: 2, Saxi- 

frnga luntoseana; 3, Androsace lanuginosa; 4, No 
specimen; S, Sedum spathulifolium probably, but 
must see in bloom. 0. Sedum Lydium. Please read 
our rules as to number of specimens sent for nam¬ 
ing - a. Donovan.— The double red Campion (Lych¬ 

nis dioica fl.-pl.). The difference between the two 
specimens vou send is only a matter of cultivation. 

_ jj, R.—probably Mcspiliis Smithi. Should like to 

see a better specimen.- Chan. Jones.— Spiriea canes- 

cens.-Dundrum.—Stnphylea colcliica.- F. IF. ().- 

Evidently the same plant—llalesia tetraptera. I he 
slight difference, we think, is only a matter of culti¬ 
vation and position.- A Visitor. — 1, 'lhe Snowdrop- 

tree (Halesin tetraptera). A very poor specimen. 2, 
Rose the White Banksian. 


Catalogue received. — W. Cutbush and Son, 
Ilighgat o. — List of Water Lilies; List of Bedding- 
plants, Sew Spiro:as; List of Cut Yew and Box-trees. 


nzt 


UF 


IA-CHAMPAI 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


No. 1,475 .—Vol. 

XXIX. 

Founded by W. Robinmn , Author of “The English Floirtr Garden ." 


JUNE 15, 1907. 





IN DEX. 






Angrxoum Infun rlihn- 


Currant-leaven falling.. 

1% 

Carden pest.i and friends 

202 

Orchard-house .. 

205 

Plant,i. grubs injuring.. 

202 

Shrubs In pots, pruning 


lare 

199 

Deutzia gracilis after 


Durden work 

2tfe> 

Orchard-house, mealy- 


Plum-tree, silver-leaf in 

202 

(lowering 

200 

Apricots too thick 

2i*; 

blooming 

200 

Creek W indflower(Ane- 


bug in. 

1% 

Primroses from seed .. 

202 

Spiraeas, two Wautiful 


Aquilegias. 

203 

Diamhus Lady Dixon .. 

200 

mone blanda), the .. 

202 

Orchids. 

l‘*9 

Room and window 

197 

new . 

200 

Asparagus doing badly 

204 

Dor beetle, the .. 

202 

Habranthus pratensin. . 

200 

Orris-root., home-made 

200 

Hose De Meuux on wall 

199 

Stove 

205 

Beans, Broad 

2 o*; 

Ferns, repotting.. 

iyy 

Hoeing . 

204 

Outdoor garden .. 

203 

Hose Fortunes Yellow, 


Strawberries 

19a 

Brans, Runner .. 

204 

Flowers, cut, seasonable 


Imputiens Holsti 

Indoor plants 

200 

Outdoor plants .. 

202 

treatment of .. 

198 


202 

Books . 

204 

arrangements of 

197 

200 

Peaches and Nectarines 


Rose Mr man Lcvavas- 


Trees and shnibs 

201 

Broccoli, late 

204 

Flowers, spring, a pretty 


Lantanos, dwarf-grotv- 


with unhealthy foliage 

196 

seur . 

199 

Vegetable garden 

205 

Bulbs, lifting 

20.; 

vase of . 

198 

ing . 

200 

Peach-trees dying 

196 

Rose Ma redial Niel 



198 

Cherry Bigarreau de 


Fruit . 

J95 

Lettuces, bolting 

204 

Peas and Onions, dis- 


cankered 

199 

Vines in bad condition 

196 

.Schreken 

195 

Fruit garden 

205 

Lilac from cuttings. 


eased . 

206 

Rose Rubin mildewed.. 

199 

Vines, mealy-bug on 

206 

Cinerarias. 

200 

Fruit—summer pruning 

19?) 

Btrikingtho .. 

200 

Pelargoniums, Fancy .. 

200 

Roses . 

198 

\ iolet, naturalising the 

202 

Clematis Fairy Queen .. 

203 

Fruit under glass, 


Lilacs, growing .. 

201 

Pine shoots, injury to .. 

202 

Roses at the Temple 


Wand flower (Sporaxis), 


Climbers in seaside 


ripening. 

205 

Lilies, Orange, failing .. 
Magnolia rustica rubra 

203 

Plants and flowers 

197 

Khow . 

198 

the . 

197 

gardens . 

203 

Furze and Sweet Briers, 


201 

Plants for brackets in 


Rosea, orange fungus on 

202 

Week's work, the com- 


Conservatory 

20.) 

rutting down .. 

201 

Melons, canker on 

205 

the room 

205 

.Scale, a large 

202 


205 

Cosmos. 

200 

Darden diary, extracts 


Moss in lawn 

206 

Plants for carpet bed- 


Shrubs by root-cuttings, 


Window lioxes .. 

198 

Cytiaus Ada mi .. 

201 

from a. 

205 

Name of insect wanted 

202 

ding . 

206 

propagating 

201 

Wireworm destroying.. 

206 


* FRUIT. 

SUMMER PRUNING. 

Summer pruning is one of the most important 
operation* connected with successful hardy 
fruit growing, and, when rationally anti in¬ 
telligently performed, exercises a vast amount 
of good on the well-being of the trees, as 
not only d<x*« it allow air and sunshine to 
reach all parts of the trees, but the same 
influences are also exerted in the building 
up and maturation of fruit-buds to a very 
much greater extent than it was ever pos¬ 
sible to obtain by the older method of non¬ 
pruning, and this in turn leads to more 
general productiveness. The checking of 
exul)crant growths by summer pruning 
diverts the flow' of sap into other channels, 
and instead of quantities of wood being pro¬ 
duced, to be ultimately cut away as useless, 
• larger and better developed fruit-buds are 
obtained, and there is also an increase in the 
size and colour of the fruit—a great desidera¬ 
tum from a market point of view', as well as 
rendering it more attractive for private use. 

Summer pruning should not be carried out 
in an indiscriminate manner, as there are 
cases in which it would be folly to prune 
away the summer shoots. Take, for in¬ 
stance, the case of a weakly growing tree, 
either naturally so or from some physical 
cause. Here the young growths are exercis¬ 
ing a beneficial effect by stimulating root 
aciion, hut cut them off and root action is at 
once checked, and the tree would not have 
sufficient recuperative power to start grow¬ 
ing afresh for some considerable time. In 
such cases the young growths are best left in¬ 
tact until September, when they may then be 
stopped or pruned back without fear. Again, 
trees that have been neglected or which are 
prone to make too much growth may with 
advantage receive a thinning, or, in other 
words, about one-half, or, perhaps, two- 
thirds. according to number, may be cut clean 
out. This will lead to a greater production 
of fruit buds, and also strengthen existing 
fruit spurs and check a too free growth. 
Healthy trees may be pruned any time now ; 
in fact, I always think the sooner it is done 
nfter this date the hotter, as the fruits then 
swell away so much more quickly. All side 
shoots growing out from the branches should 
be cut hack to four or five leaves, and, with 
regard to the leaders, much depends on 
whether the trees are young or established. 
In the first case I merely “tip” them, and in 
the latter case leave them about 7 inches or 
8 inches long. Of course, the two top buds 
on the shoots so stopped generally break and 
make sundry growths after the first stopping, 
but they are weak compared with the first 
growth, and may be cut away about the end 
of August or some time during September. 
The base buds remain dormant, and ulti¬ 
mately form fruit buds. 

If properly attended to, the branches 
should present the opm*arano<* of , cordon 
tr<*e«, and be well clothed f 'i^yrjj^apurs 


throughout their entire length. The great 
mistake that many people make is in having 
far too many branches in their trees. This 
leads to the exclusion of sunlight and air 
from the interior, and the trees fruit at the 
extremities of the branches only. Such trees 
look more like trained masses of greenery, 
and are very unprofitable. Branch-pruning 
cannot lx* done now, but all trees in this con¬ 
dition should receive attention this coming 
autumn, ami lx; judiciously thinned. A cer¬ 
tain amount of training will be necessary in 
the case of young trees, and a sufficient num- 
l>er of young shoots should In) left to form 
the foundation of the trees. Young growths 
inclined to grow too upright may be bent 
downwards and held in position by string tied 
loosely round them, fastening the other end 
to a short stake driven into the ground. Be¬ 
yond doing this, I do not favour nor practise 
elaborate training of bush and pyramid fruit- 
trees, and depend more on the selection of 
the best situated wood instead. The advice 
tendered is applicable to Apple, Pear, Plum, 
and sweet Cherry-trees, but in pruning the 
last care should he taken to leave shoots to 
supply any deficiencies caused either by acci¬ 
dent or branch-dying. Cooking varieties of 
Cherries require rather different treatment, 
as they produce their fruit on the young wood 
made during the previous year. Summer 
pruning may also with advantage be extended 
to Red and White Currants, and Goose¬ 
berries, and the cutting away of the old 
canes and the thinning out of the new canes 
of Raspberries is nothing more or less than 
summer pruning. The canes of the autuuin- 
fruiting kinds should also be thinned out now, 
selecting medium-sized ones in preference to 
the grosser-looking and stronger canes, and 
tying them to their supports. If liquid- 
manure can Ik? spared, it will not bo lost if 
applied to the roots of these Raspberries fre¬ 
quently during dry weather. A. 


STRAWBERRIES. 

It is a matter for great satisfaction to note 
that we have ample promise of a fine Straw¬ 
berry crop. There has been a liberal supply 
of moisture much more so than is cus¬ 
tomary in the month of May - there is a 
grand show of bloom, and fine bloom, and 
only in limited areas have frosts done harm. 
For these reasons a heavy crop of fruit seems 
to be a certainty. That being so, no doubt 
there will be lilx*ral plantings in the autumn 
of new beds or breadths, for heavy crops give 
much impetus to fruit culture, and if there 
be good crops of other fruits also, as seems 
to be probable, then fruit culture will lx* 
largely increased. Amateur gardeners who 
like to have their own Strawberries should 
note, however, that good crops and fine fruit 
cannot be had without taking pains to secure 
such desideratum*. Plants are easily ob¬ 
tainable. and of the most prolific varieties, 
but growing them on to be fruitful is a 
different matter. The most enduring and 
fruitful plants are found only where tin* 


ground has been well trenched and manured. 
Strawberries, though generally regarded as 
surface rooters, and they will root, profusely 
near the surface, yet will, if soil lx; deeply 
worked and manured, run deep also, and 
when such is the case they continue to fruit 
much longer than do plants put out, on 
merely dug or shallow worked soil. The 
plants fruit just at a time of year when the 
sun exercises great power, and is, to soil and 
leafage, somewhat exhausting. If the plants 
suffer from drought, bloom is weak, fruit is 
small, and ripens badly. Even deluges of 
water offer poor remedy in such case, as the 
surface roots so soon again suffer from the 
sun heat. Certainly a good mulch of long 
straw litter, so needful to keep the fruit, from 
off the soil, helps to check evaporation, but in 
no case can these artificial aids fully com¬ 
pensate for the absence of deep root hold. 

When it is purposed to put out- a fresh 
breadth of plants, it is well to have the 
ground trenched 2 feet deep in the winter, 
burying low down a good dressing of well- 
decayed manure, and in January forking into 
the surface a farther dressing of manure, 
then soon after sowing on the ground some 
early Peas. These can be cleared off in July, 
and if sjx’cial care has ix?en taken to secure 
good, strong, well rooted runners, the breadth 
may l>e planted so soon as lightly forked over 
after the removal of the Peas. The planting 
should be done of an evening, the plants be¬ 
ing well watered in, then having a little dry, 
tine soil drawn up round each one, to act ns 
a mulch, and thus enable the moisture to be 
retained. New roots are soon formed, and 
if the surface soil be rather dry, the basal 
roots will be encouraged to go all the deeper 
in search of moisture. \ r oung plants should 
always be lifted from their first rooting bed* 
with a trowel or steel fork, with balls of soil 
attached to the roots, and be carefully 
planted, the soil about each plant lx*ing 
gently trodden. Generally it is found that, 
young plants should lx* in; rows 2 feet apart 
and 15 inches to 16 inches apart in the rows. 
So arranged it is easy to, estimate the num¬ 
ber of plants needed for a given area of 
ground. 

As to the preparation of the .plants, there 
are several courses to pursue. Early runners, 
so soon as roots are formed, may lx* cut from 
the parent plants and dibbled out 6 inches 
apart on to a nursery bed, the soil of which 
has been well manured and dug. Here, well 
watered and shaded during the day for a 
week, roots are emitted, and in a short thus 
the plants become strong. These can l>e 
lifted from the bed with good balls of roots 
and soil, and be planted where to fruit in 
the early autumn, or runners may be ob¬ 
tained equally strong in the autumn b 3 * 
carrying so many as may be needed to be 
layered into each alternate space between 
the rows, removing all others not required. 
There, with the soil just under each runner 
broken up with a hand fork, the young plant- 
may be peggocL into position, or. lx* held 
there by placing a stone..close to it, and, 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 

























196 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Jun-b 15, 190? 


having no chock, the runner soon puts fortii 
roots freely, and in that way becomes estab- [ 
lished. Rooting runners into pots is an in¬ 
dispensable course when plants are needed 
for forcing in houses or frames. But it is by 
no means indispensable, nor is it the best prac¬ 
tice for amateurs, as layering into pots needs 
careful manipulation, and great care is 
needed in keeping the poto liberally watered. 
Strawberries are numerous in variety. 
Amateurs generally will find in Royal 
Sovereign, Sir J. Paxton, Leader, Bedford 
Champion, and Givon’s Late Prolific, a good 
selection. _ A. I). 

CHERRY BIGARREAU DE SCIIREKEN. 
This, a fruiting-branch of which we figure 
to-day from a pot-grown tree, is one of the 
best of the Early Bigarreau type. For for¬ 
cing it is a very fine Cherry, the fruits being 
of a shining black colour, and the quality of 
the best. For the open air it is equally good, 
but to do it justice a warm southern aspect 
is the best, and not too heavy soil. When 
given plenty of food, in the form of a rich 
mulch when the blossoms set, the fruits come 
of a good size. For unheated houses it is 
also very useful, and as it bears freely from 
spurs it ean be grown in a 


quired for smoking the house with will depend 
on its cubical contents, but full directions re¬ 
lating to this and other matters in connec¬ 
tion therewith are given on the bottles in 
which it is sold. Your local seedsman will be 
able to procure this for you. We must cau¬ 
tion you against using fumigating compound 
while you have fruit of-any description in the 
house, and with regard to remedies for win¬ 
ter application a separate note on the subject 
will appear shortly. Sulphur will kill mil¬ 
dew, but it would also spoil the Strawberries, 
therefore the wisest course you can adopt is 
to remove the, plants at once to a frame out¬ 
side, and not run the risk of having this 
fungoid disease to deal with in addition to the 
mealy-bug. 

Vines in bad condition. -Enclosed please find 
leaves of Y'ine, and through your valuable paper 
kindly say what is the matter with them? My house 
is 14 feet high, 25 feet long, and 38 feet wide, and 
the Vine roots are outside. It is not heated at all. 
Last year they went just the same, and as soon as 
the fruit got about the size of Peas they turned 
rusty, but were very sweet. I thought perhaps the 
roots had got down on the chalk, but’ I dug around 
them back in the winter, and I find it is not so. 
My employer thinks it is through getting very dry 
last summer, but I think it is through not having 
any heat, as it gets so very hot during the day and 
then so much colder when night comes on. J)o you 


limited space. 

NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Mealy-bug in orchard- 
house (Mo It ay ).—You are 
unfortunate in having such 
an infestation of mealy-bug 
in your orchard-house, this 
being one of the worst of all 
insect pests to eradicate, 
particularly when it attacks 
the Vine. During the grow¬ 
ing period but little can be 
done to cope with it, owing 
to the use of insecticides be¬ 
ing then prohibitive. In the 
winter months, when the 
Vines are resting, drastic 
remedies can be made use of, 
and this was the time when 
you should have taken 
measures to dispose of the 
bug, as you were no doubt 
aware of its presence. The 
only thing we can advise you 
to do from the time the 
Grapes are the size of young 
Peas until they approach the 
colouring stage is to subject 
both the Vines and bunches 
to a good forcible syringing 
weekly. This will be no 
cure, but it may be the 
means of keeping the 
bunches clear of these loath¬ 



some insects, and enable vou Cherry Bigarreau de Schreken. From a photograph in the gardens 
to make use of the produce. at 0u nnersbury House, Acton, YV. 

The constant washing will 
spoil the bloom on the 

berries, and they may, perhaps, become I think the soil is wrong? If so, will you please tell 
spotted, seeing that you live in a limestone [ “nV tWn 
district, but this will —* u ~ -- 


not be detrimental in 


YY'ould it be through opening the top light when 


the slightest degree. *The washing must be there is a north-east wind blowing, as the house 
done with the application of a certain amount stands just the right way to get it?—T. it. 
of force, therefore a garden engine or a hose- [It is evident your Vine is radically wrong 
pipe attached to the main would be the best at the roots, otherwise it would not cast its 


ertain amount. stand8 i ust the ri e hfc w »y to S ct It?—T. K- 

;ine or a hose- [It is evident your Vine is radically wrong 

d be the best at the roots, otherwise it would not cast its 


means of obtaining the necessary pressure, 
combined with a continuous flow of water. 
With careful manipulation, using the fore¬ 
finger to break the force and spreading the 
water into a kind of spray when dealing with 
the bunches, the latter will sustain no dam¬ 
age, and by washing them first oil one side 
and then on the oAer, great numbers of the 
insects will be dislodged. With regard to 
the foliage and rods, use the water at full 
pressure. On every occasion when you wash 
the Vines spread mats or old sheets beneath 
them, to catch the insects as they fall. Carry 
these outside afterwards, and pour boiling 
water over them to dispatch the bug. Use 
the Grapes as soon as they are ripe, and 
when the house is clear both of them and 
the Peaches, fumigate the house weekly with 
XL All compound until the foliage ripens and 
falls. This will dispatch great numbers of 
the insects, and then so soon ns the Vines 
have been pruned they can be dealt with more 
effectively. The <>nawtity of corlpound re- 

Digitized by (jOOgle 


leaves prematurely, as it has done. The 
| leaves are also deficient in chlorophyll or 
colouring matter, and are greatly wanting in 
substance. Although the vinery is a cold 
one, the Vine would not have behaved in the 
way it has done if it were healthy. Even 
supposing it to be a variety which required 
warmth, the leaves would not have dropped. 
You had, therefore, better wait till autumn, 
j and then lift the roots, and if you find them 
in good enough condition to warrant the 
Vine being retained, we should advise you to 
make up a new border. We, however, sur¬ 
mise that when you come to examine the roots 
you will find the greater portion of them 
dead, and if such should prove to be the case, 

I destroy the Vine, make a new border, and 
I plant another cane next spring. You would, 
of course, succeed much better in future if 
the vinery were heated, and if you have to 
root out the Vine a favourable opportunity 
| will present itself for carrying out such work 
as the fixing of liot-water pipes and heating 


apparatus. Cold winds were, without doubt, 
responsible for the rusting of the terries. 
If you have no other means of affording ven¬ 
tilation than , by the ventilators you name, 
which catch the N.E. winds, you can temper 
the latter and prevent an inrush of cold air 
bv simply tacking a piece of muslin or thin 
| tiffany over the openings.] 

Peach-trees dying.—I shall be obliged if you can 
tell me the cause of my Peach-trees dying? One him 
! just died after setting a good crop of fruit. They are 
in a large, cold orchard-house, and were planted 
four ye&rs ago. I have examined the one that died 
and find at the collar the bark dead all round and a 
fungus growing underneath between the burk and the 
wood. It had made a lot of fibrous roots. The soil 
is very heavy and cold, blue clay 2 feet below the 
surface. YY’lien the trees were planted some good 
loam and burnt refuse were put about the roots; 

I but no drainage was put in. The floor level of the 
house is a foot above the ground level on one side, 
and quite level on the other. The house is a span 
roof, running north to south, and has four rows of 
trees.—(3. A. S. 

I [After carefully perusing your note we have 
arrived at the conclusion that the cause of 
your Peach-trees dying is owing to your not 
having provided a border consisting of a suit¬ 
able compost, and in not concreting the base 
and laying a drain, or drains, to carry off 
superfluous moisture. Seeing that you have 
a subsoil consisting of blue clay to contend 
with, and that the floor level corresponds, or 
I nearly so, with that outside the house, we 
are of the opinion that unless you lift the 
trees and remedy matters in the way we have 
hinted at, so long will you have trouble with 
your trees. A well-made border resting on a 
concreted and well-drained base will be dry 
and warm, and answer the requirements of 
the Peach admirably, and we strongly advise 
you to provide these this next autumn just 
before the trees shed their leaves. The work 
will not take long to carry out, provided you 
have the necessary materials for making the 
I border with ready to hand ; also the lime, 
sand, and cement for concreting. So soon as 
the concreting is completed and set, and the 
drains and drainage got in, the border can 
be started with, and then the replanting of 
the trees and completion of the border can 
be done simultaneously.] 

Peaches and Nectarines with unhealthy 
foliage — 1 shall be much obliged if you will let me 
know if the enclosed growths are only the result, of • 
the recent cold winds? The trees are on a south-east 
wall, with a pathway of 3 feet in front. The wall 
contains two Peach-trees and four Nectarines. The 
former are healthy, with only a little curled leaf, 
and bearing freely. The latter are gumming badly, 
and with but few leaves that arc not attacked as 
| accompanying.—F. L. C. 

[The leaves of the Nectarines you send us 
are affected with what is termed leaf-blister, 
which, according to some authorities, is of 
fungoid growth, but, in our opinion, it is 
caused in consequence of the sap vessels in 
the leaves becoming ruptured, ns a result of 
frost and cold winds. Leaf-blister is more 
prevalent in some seasons than in others, and 
the mope ungenial and cold the spring the 
worse is the attack. Trees which are well 
protected with blinds never seem to suffer to 
anything like the extent that, those which are 
covered with two or three thicknesses of net¬ 
ting only do, and wc have long arrived at the 
conclusion that a low temperature, accom¬ 
panied with cold wind, is the cause of the 
mischief. Unfortunately, there is but little 
we can advise you to do now beyond picking 
off and burning the affected leaves. When 
more genial weather conditions prevail the 
trees will make fresh growth, and, provided 
| this is kept free of insects, and if the summer 
.should prove warm and favourable for ripen¬ 
ing up the wood, they will right themselves. 
After such an experience ns yours has teen 
we need hardly mention that you would do 
well to afford the trees a more efficient pro¬ 
tection another spring.] 

Currant - leaves falling (Amateur).—As your 
Currant-bushes seem, so far, to have done well, ami 
; as the sample sent shows, are fruiting well, it is diffi¬ 
cult to tell what the cause of the leaves on the 
bushes turning yellow and falling off is, unless there 
has been applied to the soil something that is harm¬ 
ful to the roots. Frosts would have shown more of 
harm to the fruit than to the leaves, and the weather 
has not been frosty of late. Are the bushes growing 
in stiff soil that retains water, or has any drain near 
hurst and flooded the soil about the roots? If the 
bushes are old, it may be unsafe to lift them next 
winter and plant in fresh soil. If they do not recover 
during the summer, you had better get strong, young 
hushes in the autumn, and plant those in fresh soil. 
After aH. the hushes may grow out of tlieir present 
trouble as the season advances. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 








June 15. 1007 


G. ■:/ > z..\ y.a y; zz z /.//; 77;. / ted. 


107 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

ROOM AND WINDOW. 

THE WAND-FLOWER (SPARAXJS). 
Charming bulbous plants from the Cape of 
Good Hope. The many varieties come 
chiefly from S. grandiflora and S. tricolor. 
They are about 1 foot high, of slender growth, 


so tough and wiry that they are never broken 
| in a storm. For six or seven weeks S. pul- 
chexrima has lovely Foxglove-shaped bells on 
almost invisible wire-like lateral foot-stalks. 

| Though the flowers of the type are usually 
rosy-purple, there are some which are nearly 
white, and forms of almost every intermediate 
shade, while some are beautifully striped. S. 
Thunbergi is an allied species, but S. pul- 
eherrima is finer and more elegant, the for- 
I mer being stiffer and much dwarfer—its erect 



Part of a flowering spike of the Wand-flower (Sparaxis pulcherrima). From a photograph 
in the Cambridge Botanic Garden. 


and bear large showy flowers which vary from 
white to bright scarlet and deep crimson, 
usually having dark centres. The Sparaxis 
is valuable for early summer flowering, and 
should be treated like the Ixia. There is a 
great number of named varieties offered by 
bulb growers, one of the finest being that 
known as Fire King. S. pulcherrima (the 
Wand-Flower), a native of the Cape, is so 
distinct from other Sparaxis that its claim to 
be a Sparaxis has often been disputed. Its 
tall and graceful flower-stems rise to a height 
of 5 feet or 6 feet, and^thoijgl^ sl°ijd^i| Me 


flower-stems being seldom more than 2* feet 
high—and its flowers have very short stalks, 
whilst they are not pendulous. 

The best position for S. pulcherrima is in 
clumps among sheltering shrubs. In 6uch a 
position it might be associated with Tritonia 
aurea, as the two plants flower together. S. 
pulcherrima is about as hardy as Tritonia, 
Montbretia Pottsi, and similar plants, and, 
though more difficult to establish, well re¬ 
pays a little care during the first year or two. 
It has a great objection to removal, and, if 
necessary, this should be done as soon as the 


flowers begin to fade. It succeeds in dry 
as well as damp positions, if it has a rich, 
friable soil, or if, when beginning to grow, it 
is well watered. 


SEASONABLE ARRANGEMENTS OF 
CUT FLOWERS. 

We have now entered upon a period when 
there is an abundance of flowers for cutting, 
and any garden worthy of the name should 
be in a position to provide a supply of one 
sort or another that will lend a charm to the 
home. At the present time'the Spanish Iris 
is to be obtained in charming variety, and 
this in varying colours that are capable of 
satisfying the taste of the most fastidious. 
Yellow-flowered kinds are beautiful, and 
these, arranged in a large trumpet-shaped 
vase, each flower with ite stem standing out 
distinct from its neighbour, produce a fine 
effect. Pleasingly interspersed among these 
flowers, bright green fronds of Asparagus 
plumosus, to stand out gracefully, will add 
considerably to the effect, and the merest 
novice should have no difficulty in adjusting 
these in position. Under artificial light this 
colour is particularly striking. The various 
shades of blue, white, and those of inter¬ 
mediate tones of colour are specially suited 
for decorations during the day, when by 
their use in baskets, vases, bowls, and the 
numerous receptacles now 60 largely used in 
the home, their disposition is easy. I know 
of few flowers to equal these for artistic floral 
work, and those who have not a good selec¬ 
tion in their own garden at the present time 
should purchase a bunch or two with which 
to experiment. 

Already the Pyrethrums are in flower, and 
now that we have so many improvements, 
both in colour and form, there is no reason 
why these beautiful flowers should not be 
more frequently used. The singles have a 
beauty peculiarly their own. Their Mar¬ 
guerite-like blossoms, in various colours, lend 
themselves well to bold and handsome dis¬ 
plays, while a few blossoms, arranged in some 
of the smaller vases, have a distinctly' beauti¬ 
ful effect. The doubles are a little more 
cumbersome, yet pleasing, notwithstanding. 
The warmer tones of colour are very effective 
under artificial light, and should be used for 
this purpose. Tne salmon-tinted kinds are 
particularly pleasing, while whites and the 
softer tones of colour should be contrasted 
with the excellent material that may nowf be 
found in both field and hedgerow. Some of 
the copper-tinted pieces of the Hornbeam, 
Oak. and many other hardy trees add con¬ 
siderably to the charms of such an arrange¬ 
ment. 

The late May-flowering Tulips are particu¬ 
larly handsome at this season, and should be 
more frequently in request than is now the 
case. I have used these flowers in some of 
the larger receptacles, where their long stems 
and beautiful silvery-green foliage create an 
effect that is seldom met with. Use in every 
case, as far as possible, foliage of its own, 
whatever may be the subject used, and the 
effect will be infinitely more pleasing than 
when foliage of another kind is employed. 
The gorgeous Pieonies, of which we now have 
so many charming varieties, not forgetting 
the old crimson, make a noble and artistic 
floral display. Half-a-dozen blooms in a large 
vase arc ample. Two or three blooms dis¬ 
played in some of the smaller vases and re¬ 
ceptacles with long tubes create an effect 
that is distinctly taking, and one long to be 
remembered. Individual blooms also look 
well set up with a piece of their own foliage. 

The Tufted Pansies—in fact, all types of 
the Pansy—should be more often used than 
is now the case. Use those with long stems, 
disposing the blossoms in 6ome of the dainty 
little specimen glosses and small, shallow 
bowls, adjusting the flowers in position by 
the aid of natural, undyed M06S, which will 
assist to keep them in position, and at the 
same time carry the moisture well up round 
about the flowers. This will also maintain 
the flowers in a fresh condition much longer 
than would otherwise be the cose. Arrange 
the flowers so that there is only one colour 
represented in each of the small receptacles. 
The Poet’s Narcissus just now is particularly 
beautiful, the richness of its perfume adding 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




198 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


June 15, 1907 


considerably to its charm. I have been using 
this in some of the more slender vases, plac¬ 
ing half-a-dozen blossoms in each. Make 
good use of sprays of the flowering trees and 
shrubs, of which there is still a good supply. 
These subjects are not used 60 freely as their 
merits deserve, yet a few sprays disposed in 
long, stately vases make a unique display. 

The foregoing are a few of the plants now 
in bloom, but good use should be made of the 
numberless other .flowers as their season 
comes round. D. B. Crane. 


WINDOW BOXES. 

The time is nt. hand when window boxes will 
have to be filled with their summer occu¬ 
pants. It is a pity that more variety is not 
to be seen in this form of window gardening. 
Scarlet Pelargoniums, blue Lobelias, and yel¬ 
low Calceolarias are very well in their way. 
but one would like to eee more variety. I 
have noticed w indow boxes which, ms the sea 
son comes round, are filled with exactly 
the same kind of thing, no attempt being 
made to vary them from year to year. This 
is a pity, as there is a great wealth of plants 
suitable for this form of gardening. Some,of 
the beet effects arc obtainable with very in¬ 
expensive materials ; dw arf Tropmolum and 
Canary Creeper, to droop down and drape tin; 
boxes, form an exeel lent combination, and 
will remain ornamental until frost comes. 
Maurandya Ba relay an.i, apparently unknown 
to the great majority of flower lovers of the 
present generation, is one of the very finest 
things for boxes or baskets. When used in 
this way it forms graceful festoons of ver¬ 
dure, plentifully sprinkled with lovely blue 
Gloxinia shaped blooms, which are. produced 
the whole summer through. Nothing can bo 
more charming than this climber with a back¬ 
ground of striped Petunias, which, by the 
way, are among the very best things that 
can be used for window gardening. They 
grow with much freedom, flower continuously 
throughout the summer and early autumn, 
and can be bought at a very cheap rate. The 
great thing is to plant them in an early stage 
of growth. If Petunias are allowed to stand 
too long in the boxes in which they are raised 
they draw up, become starved, and lose their 
succulency, in which case, half the summer 
may go by before they come into free growth. 
Eecremoearpus scaber is another climber 
that can be used with good effect. T remem¬ 
ber the time when every spring I had to pro¬ 
pagate a quantity of this and the Maurandya 
for window boxes and hanging baskets—in 
fact, we could seldom raise enough, and had 
to purchase in Covent Garden. Cobnea 
scan dens variegata was also much in demand. 
A plant or two of this, mixed with plain- 
leaved things, has a pleasing effect. Varie¬ 
gated Pelargoniums nre not much seen in 
window boxes nowadays, but, used in modera 
tion, and in combination with other things, 
they look well. The old Flower of Spring is 
still one of the best. Mrs. Parker, which has 
double rose-coloured flowers, is very good, 
and among the tricolors Mrs. Pollock and 
Lady Cullum are the most striking. Cam 
panula isophylla and its white variety are un¬ 
surpassed for this form of gardening. 

By fleet. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

A pretty vase of spring flowers —At the 

monthly exhibition of the National Amateur Gar¬ 
deners’ Association, on May 7th. one of the prettiest 
exhibits was a yellow form of Spanish Iris and the 
annual Cypsophila elegans arranged in a vase. Each 
flower of the Iris was lightly disposed, showing a 
long and pleasing length of stem. As a base, the 
Gypsophila was delightful, the myriads of dainty 
little white blossoms contrasting charmingly with the 
yellow of the Iris blossoms, and these in turn with 
the overhanging sprays of bright green fronds of the 
Aspnrngus. -J>. B. G. 

Verbenas for baskets It should not. be over¬ 
looked when attention is being turned to the filling of 
hanging-baskets and window-boxes that Verbenas 
serve a most useful purpose. When used in this way 
they should be pinched bark quite early in the season. 
It is when this point, is overlooked and when towards 
August the plants are denuded of leaves that, they 
lose much of their attraction. Stopped once or twice, 
no plants yield a greater profusion of blossoms dur¬ 
ing the summer months in a sunny window. The day 
has gone when it wns considered essential to retain 
old plants for propagation in spring, seeing that they 
can be raised easily seed sown March.— 

'•"Digitizes by GOOgle 


ROSES. 

ROSES AT THE TEMPLE SHOW. 

At no show are Roses more tastefully dis¬ 
played than they are at the Temple, was a 
remark I overheard from a lady the other 
day in one of the tents at this grand exhibi¬ 
tion. At the summer Rose shows vve can only 
have cut branches of the many lovely 
Ramblers, and how quickly they soon droop 
if the day happens to be a very hot one ! But 
at the Temple we have glorious pillars in all 
their natural beauty. The towering examples 
that were shown on this occasion w^re 
wonderful, and it. is doubtful if anything finer 
was ever seen in the way of a pillar Rose 
than the specimens of Lady Gay ami 
Hiawatha, each of which were carrying no 
less than three to four thousand blossoms. 
These were in the gold medal group of 
Messrs. Win. Paul and Son. of Waltham 
Cross. Of course, under artificial conditions, 
the grower can protect his plants from the 
vagaries of the weather more readily than 
outdoors, and the roots can be given more 
artificial food than is possible in the open. 
These splendid pillars were grown mostly 
in 11-inch pots, and they must have lx*en 
full of roots, for T was informed that on a 
hot day they needed water five and six times. 

A Rose-grower is generally on the look out 
for novelties, and it is more as regards these 
1 pen these few notes. In Messrs. Win. Paul 
and Son’s group I noticed Dr. Wm. Gordon. 
This will prove to bo a very fine II.P. variety. 
It seems to come inidwav between Mme. G. 
Luizet and Mrs. John Laiug, although its 
outer petals, which were pointed, gave one an 
impression of La France. It is fairly sweet, 
a splendid grower, and evidently grand for 
pot work, as well us for open-air culture. 
Pharisaer cannot l>e called new. and yet it. is 
not so often soon as it deserves to be. I be¬ 
lieve there is a great future for this Rose, 
and it will make a grand variety to raise 
seedlings from, for its liabit is so good. Mme. 
Jenny Gilleinot reminds one of a beautiful 
large Tulip. As seen here the colour was a 
creamy white, with very delicate shadings 
and edgings of blush, but outdoors the colour 
is a richer nankeen yellow*. Melanie Sou- 
pert was a superb flower in size, but, as 
seen, rather bad in shape. It, is a good 
grower, and has a fine dash of orange-yellow 
in it,. Dora is a Rose somewhat in the same 
style as Queen of Spain. It, is very fine when 
half open, but the expanded flowers reveal n 
rather hollow centre, which will debar it 
from the show-box, although as a garden 
variety it will be appreciated. Italia is evi¬ 
dently going to l>e a useful Rose. It origi¬ 
nated either ns a sport, or a seedling from 
La France de ’89, and it possesses the same 
semi-climbing growth, grand foliage, and 
delicious fragrance. The colour is in the 
way of Pride of Waltham. Kathleen is a 
new Rambler that reminds one of Leucht- 
storn, but the ground colour of rosy-crimson 
is heavier. The distinct white eye and 
beautiful pyramidal cluster suggest a new 
type of Cineraria, and the clusters are so 
freely produced that a most showy plant is 
the result. Mme. Jules Gravereaux is one of 
the three Roses that has been selected for 
special honour as the best Tea Rose of the 
last three or four years. It was not seen so 
fine here as it has been shown. It is a superb 
Rose, but it is an open question whether it is 
not too near an H.T. to have obtained this 
award. I believe Mme. Jean Dupuy was 
nominated for the honour, but failed to re¬ 
ceive the votes. This is a fine Rose which 
everyone should possess, and I should not. 
like to say which i6 the better of the two. I 
shall plant them both. Mme. Levi Pain was 
well exhibited. It is rather thin, and does 
not develop the exquisite orange shading it 
does outdoors. Prince de Bulgarie was, 
probably, never seen in finer form. Borne 
old exhibitors could scarcely believe the 
variety was Prince de Bulgarie. There was 
such a fine deep build that quite astonished 
them. This is a very fine Rose, which all 
should possess. Some grandly - flowered 
standards of White Mnman Cochet, Antoine 
Rivoire, and Mme. Abel Chatenay were seen 
in this fine group. 

In another part of the tent Messrs. Paul 


and Son. of Cheshunt, had produced a feast 
of novelty which compelled one to linger 
over this group. I much liked one of their 
own raising, Nellie Johnstone, a pure rose- 
pink flower of beautiful form, the blossoms 
well displayed, and, as it originated from that 
fine Rose, Mme. Berkeley, this should prove 
to be a very useful new Tea Rose. A batch 
of Richmond gave a good idea of its value for 
cut flower work, the vividness of its scarlet 
colour being quite dazzling. Market growers 
are planting this Rose very extensively, and 
the amateur who wants to lx 1 up-to-date 
should do likewise. Institotem- Sirdey is one 
of those vivid orange-yellow Roses which 
Mon«. Pernet Ducher has evidently an un¬ 
exhausted stock of, and if they do not quite 
give iis the rich golden-yellow Rose we want, 
at. least they go a long way towards that de¬ 
sirable end. Senateur St. Rnmmc is a very 
distinct coppery-salmon II.T.. with a splen¬ 
did form, and really a fine Rose. William 
Shean was very fine, and one’s good opinion 
of the Rose was increased by the specimens 
exhibited. So also was Mrs. Myles Kennedy. 
I did not care much for this variety when it 
received the gold medal of N.R.S., two years 
ago, but, as seen here, it was decidedly good. 
One of the largest blossoms of Mildred Grant 
I have ever seen was found in this group. 
It is, indeed, a marvellous Rose, but one 
which the amateur would be well advised not 
to plant too largely. The new semi-climber. 
Snowstorm, was seen, and if, as it. is said to 
be, this Rose is a continuous bloomer, it will 
be a welcome addition to Roses of the tvpe 
of Alister Stella Gray, Longworth Rambler, 
Gross an Teplitz, Gloire des Rosomanes, 
Pissardi. Perpetual Thalia, Gottfreid Keller, 
etc., which enable us to make nt least the 
hoses of our Rose pillars gav with blossom 
until frost comes. Lady Godiva is a pretty 
Wichnraiana, with tinting like the alba Rose, 
.Celestial. This should prove a distinct colour 
iu this most charming group. Rosalind is a 
pretty Polvantha likely to prove usefnl. But 
why make the nomenclature more compli¬ 
cated by giving it this name when there is 
already a Rosalindo in the. same class, 
emanating a year or so ago from Germany? 

In Messrs. Hobbies’ pretty group I dis¬ 
covered a very lovely novelty in Paradise. It 
is quaint, in its formation, resembling a Mal¬ 
tese cross, excepting that there are five divi¬ 
sions instead of four. The colour is like 
Leuchtetorn, and each petal prettily re¬ 
flexed, which gives the flower the star like 
appearance. Messrs. Frank Cant and Co. 
put up a charming group, amongst which 
Minnehaha was very prominent, although T 
cannot see where this Rose is wanted, see¬ 
ing we have in Lady Gay a much finer 
variety. J. B. Clarke was very fine, but I 
am afraid, for many individuals, this much- 
praised Rose will prove disappointing. The 
hunch of that, exquisite single, Rosa sinicn 
Anemone, from a warm wall outdoors, was a 
foretaste of the glorious feast we shall soon 
behaving when those cold winds have passed 
away. Messrs. B. R. Cant and Sons had a 
very nice group containing a good assortment 
of the leading varieties, and Mr. Charles 
Turner displayed some fine Souvenir tie 
Pierre Netting, which were, perhaps, a trifle 
passe. In his group many excellent sorts 
were seen. Mr. G. Mount made a most, im¬ 
posing group of cut. flowers. Such varieties 
as Frau Karl Druschki, Captain Hayward, 
Mrs. Edward Mawley, Bessie Brown, and 
Mrs. Sharman Crawford were shown in large 
numbers, and of that superb quality which 
Mr. Mount evidently knows how to produce. 

Rosa. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Treatment of Rose Fortune's Yellow.—I shall 
feel very much obliged if you will kindly tell me 
how to treat, my Fortune’s Yellow Rose? I have had 
it three years, and it is planted in a lard pail. The 
second winter I left it out-of-doors till the end of 
December, and when I brought it into the con¬ 
servatory it- besau to put out new shoots at oiicp. 
and flowered splendidly In March and April. As it 
had grown so much 1 could not very well take it 
out again the next summer, nor did I prune it in 
any wav. The consequence is this spring it had only 
about half-a-dozen flowers. Would it be wise to 
prune it now, and, if so, how? I think I saw some¬ 
where that this Rose should be cut in like a Vine. 
Is this correct? It gets enough sun, I think, in the 
house to ripen the wood.—HORACE. 

[You are quite right aboyt the pruning of 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



June 15, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


199 



this Rose. It should be out back hard after 
flowering, and wo should advise you so to 
prune your plant now. Cut the lateral 
growths well back to the main stems. Keep 
the plant well syringed and the house fairly 
warm. By so doing you should have a good 
growth bv the autumn. Any small, weak 
shoots that appear should be thinned out 
during summer. After growth.is completed 
in autumn the small lateral shoots that may 
appear late on the current season’s grow tins 
should be cut. back .and weak points removed 
from all leading growths. It would bo more 
satisfactory if you could plant your specimen 
into a good border in your conservatory. 
Failing this, it should have a fair-sized pot 
or small cask. The small pail it is now grow¬ 
ing in cannot afford sufficient root space for 
its requirements, and it is a pity to cramp 
such a glorious Rose which is capable of 
covering the whole of your conservatory wall 
or roof, if you so desired it, although it may 
be restricted almost to any limits.] 

'Rose Rubin mildewed. — I have three Rubin 
Roses 0:1 trellis facing south; soil good rich loam on 


soil. Probably your plant heeds a good 
watering ; in any case, you would do no harm 
in giving it a good soaking, then mulching 
around with well-rotted immure or Grass 
mowings. A good syringing with strong soft- 
soap water, applied in the evening, would 
check the mildew.. You could syringe the 
soap off again next morning with soft water. 
It is just possible there is too much manure 
in the soil, hut as you say oilier Ramblers on 
same trellis are doing well, wo cannot think 
this is the cause. If von have reason to be¬ 
lieve that the subsoil is hard, insert a crow¬ 
bar around the plant, making with it some 
good holes; the water will then penetrate 
where it is wanted.] 

Rose De Meaux on wall. I was very 
pleased to find this pretty little Rose flower¬ 
ing freely as a large and tall bush planted 
against a house wall, and, appearing as it 
did at the end of May, it was very welcome. 
One is apt to look upon these Roses as of 
diminutive habit, because generally found as 
edging plants, but, if left unpruned, espeei- 


Angraicum infundibulare. From a photograph in .sir Trevor Lawrence’s garden 
at Burford Lodge, Dorking. 


green sandstone nn-k. These Roses, about one month 
ago, became badly mildewed and leaves curled up. 
Ollier rambling Roses on same trellis are perfectly 
healthy, and bush Roses are remarkably good here. 
They were planted eighteen months ago, and wero 
slightly affected last spring. I had the same Roses 
in a garden in Surrey, on sandy soil, facing north¬ 
west, and they did splendidly, and the foliage was 
lovely. Js the present position too sunny for them 
or the soil too rich? As the charm of this Rose is 
its foliage, I should he glad to know how to get 
its beauty back?— W. Hkwktt, Pulborough , Sussex. 

[As a rule, this beautiful Rambler grows 
bo well that mildew rarely appears, and we 
can only imagine there are some special cir¬ 
cumstances in your case that have given rise 
to the trouble. Frequently plants set out 
from pots are addicted to mildew, and this 
could be explained by the fact that-the hall 
of earth is sometimes placed in the ground in 
an almost dry condition, and afterwards, 
when rain comes, the water runs away from 
the dry ball into the loose soil around. It is 
always advisable to well soak the ball of 
earth a few minutes before setting it in the 
hole prepared for it, and, moreover, the soil 
should be lightly prodded over, so that the 
roots around the ball may be released a little, 
and thus encouraged ^i»--*york into tlie new 

Digitized b 


;ed bar *^ork into the ne 

CjO< >gle 


j ally against a wall, they will in time cover 
4 feet or 5 feet in height, and almost as much 
in width. This lovely little gem must not be 
confused with the miniature Moss Rose De 
Meaux, but both are worth growing, if only 
for their tiny blossoms, and they have the 
fragrance so peculiar to the tribe.— Rosa. 

Rose Maman Levavasseur.— A number of 
plants from Orleans of this Polyantha novelty 
were exhibited at the recent Temple show, 
but, I fear, they did not attract much atten¬ 
tion. The fact is we have a much bettor sort 
in Mrs. W. H. Cut bush. Both Roses are of 
the Mine. Norbert Levavasseur type, but the 
colour of Maman Levavasseur is one not re¬ 
quired. It is a sort of rose-pink. In the 
variety Mrs. W. H. Cutbush we have a lovely 
pale pink 6hade that is 6ure to please. Some 
of the flowers come a silvery-blush, which, 
interspersed in the beautiful pyramidal clus¬ 
ter, considerably adds to its attractiveness. 
There are a daintiness and lightness about 
this Rose that will make it most valuable to 
the florist. Another novelty in the same way 
as Maman Levavasseur was named Phyllis. 
Again I thought it was not wanted. It is use¬ 


less to multiply these Roses unless they pos¬ 
sess considerable merit, which neither of 
these Roses possesses. Had one been a 
golden-yellow Levavasseur this would have 
been given a warm welcome. I consider we 
have a white in Katherina Zeimet, and a 
golden one and, perhaps, a rich crimson 
maroon are only now needed. There is a de¬ 
mand for this type of Rose for florist work 
alone. They are so enduring, and ap|x i ar to 
such advantage in artificial light that one 
would be safe to pot up quite a number next 
autumn, especially where much decorative 
work has to be carried out. Six inch pots 
are quite large enough, and they may even 
be grown in 5-inch pots, provided small plants 
are selected with roots not too tapering. Own- 
root plants would be best, and they strike 
very freely from cuttings.— Rosa. 

Roso Marechal Niel cankered (Cntnlpa). - 
Canker seems to be in the nature of this Rose, for 
no matter how one provides against it, the disease 
will appear. Too much moisture would certainly he 
a contributive cause, as it encourages the over-pro¬ 
duction of sap, which, in its efforts to escape, hursts 
the tissues. Over cropping will also bring al>out the 
canker. It is well when a large number of buds 
appear, to thin them, retaining the best, und do not 
allow the plant to carry too many flowers at first. 
If the canker has appeared low down the stems, 
cover the parts with some good loam. We have had 
this Rose thus treated, and roots were produced from 
the cankered parts. If high up on the plants, bind 
some Moss around the branches or stern, and en¬ 
deavour to keep the Moss moist. If roots appear 
through the Moss, hind some more on. 


ORCHIDS. 


A N G R M C U M IN F U N D1B U L A R E. 
This very remarkable and interesting species 
was first exhibited from the collection of 
Lord Rothschild at the Royal Horticultural 
Society on July 26th, 1904. when it was 
unanimously awarded a first-class certificate 
by the Orchid committee. The plant had 
never before flowered under cultivation. 
Since that time it has bloomed in several 
collections, but it is still a rare plant. This 
Angnectun apjx’ars to have Iwen first made 
known by dried specimens collected by Mr. 
Barter on Prime’s Island, W. Africa, in 
186:1, but the plants now under cultivation 
are said to have been sent home by Major II. 
Rattray from the Victoria Nyanza in 1902, a 
widely different locality from that (if the 
original record, and were distributed in this 
country by Mr. James O’Brien. The flowers, 
large and very fragrant, are borne singly on 
the elongated stems. The broad label him, 
which is pure white, is openly displayed, the 
basal part continued into a greenish funnel- 
shaped spur, which is about 6 inches in 
length, and prolonged into a slender tail of 
about the same length as the spur. The 
sepals and petals arc over 2 inches long and 
greenish in colour. The plant, which has a 
sc an dent habit, the stems bearing bright 
green narrowly ovate leaves, should l>c fixed 
to a long upright Teak wood raft, which 
should consist of three or four rod*', each rod 
being about $ inch in diameter, and at least 
1 inch apart, the open spaces between the 
rods being filled up with fibrous peat and 
Sphagnum Moss. The lower part of the raft 
is then inserted in a pot, not perpendicu¬ 
larly, but with a decided incline backwards, 
the front of the plant facing towards the 
light; make the raft secure in the pot with 
broken crocks, and over the surface place a 
layer of fresh Sphagnum Moss. Grow the 
plant in a warm, moist atmosphere, choosing 
a rather shady position, and where there is a 
free circulation of air. During bright 
weather the stem and roots may be lightly 
sprayed over two or three times a day, and 
towards the end of the summer months the 
plant should lx? gradually exposed to more 
light and a little extra sunshine, but it must 
he afforded with discretion, otherwise the 
foliage may become, spotted and unsightly. 

W. H. White. 


Repotting Ferns.— Now that these arc all push¬ 
ing up new fronds is the best time of the year for 
repotting. If left for any length of time in one pot, 
the roots get so matted together that it is impossible 
to disentangle them. The crocks should be carefully 
worked out of the base of the ball of earth, and the 
old surface soil removed before placing the plants 
into a fresh pot. Great care is needed to work the 
finest soil down arr\ong*jt thej side roots, and then a 
good soaking of water wifi Settle the whole mass.— 

1 bfilVeRSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 








200 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Juxe 15, 1907 


INDOOR PLANTS. 

CINERARIAS. 

Few plants give a brighter display in our 
greenhouses during the dull winter months, 
and extending well into May, than do 
Cinerarias, which, with a minimum of atten¬ 
tion. may be grown very successfully by all 
those possessing a few garden frames and a 
greenhouse from which the frost can lie kept 
out. Many people erroneously think Ciner¬ 
aria* difficult to cultivate on account of their 
liability to aphides, but there are many 
plants quite as bad. Roses, Carnations, 
Pelargoniums, and Cyclamens fall a prey to 
aphides much sooner than do the Cineraria. 
The reason the latter has a bad name in this 
respect is that the plants are otten grown in 
a stuffy, close atmosphere—the very thing to 
favour their appearance and aid their in¬ 
crease. From the date of sowing (middle of 
Mav to the middle of June) up to the end of 
October Cinerarias cannot got too much 
fresh air by day. with a less amount by night, 
if cold weather threatens, otherwise the lights 
arc better pulled back, the night dews doing 
the plants a deal of good. Pans are suitable 
fur the seed to be sown in. The compost 
should lie about equal parts loam and leaf- 
soil, with sufficient sand to make it porous. 
Make it moderately firm, with an even sur¬ 
face, as the seed is very small. Water the 
pan a few hours previous to sowing, and then 
sprinkle a little sand over the surface, when 
all will be ready for the seed. Sow this very 
thinly and evenly, and with similar soil 
merely cover the seed, and ttien stand in a 
cool, moist frame or hand light, or even out- 
of-doors under a north wall will do, as it is 
necessary to cover the pan with glass and 
paper, or a piece of slate, to prevent the 
soil drying too quickly. Admit air and light 
immediately the little plants come through. 
Guard against slugs, either standing the 
pan on an inverted flower-pot in a pan of 
water, thoroughly liming the surroundings, 
or searching for them at night with a lamp. 

When large enough to conveniently handle, 
prick out into other pane or ehallow boxes 
from 11 inches to 3 inches apart, water in, 
give very little air for n couple of days, and 
shade from the sun. Here they will soon re¬ 
cover from transplanting, if kept moistened 
with the syringe twice daily, independent of 
the necessary water at the root, and before 
the plants crowd each other, pot the strongest 
into large 60’s ; the smaller ones, and often 
the best colours, into 121-inch pots, using a 
similar soil as previously mentioned. Similar 
treatment is needed after this disturbing of 
the roots for a few days, but increase the 
amount of ventilation when it is seen the 
plants are getting established. Watering 
must be carefully done, as the roots are im¬ 
patient of a sodden soil, but, on the other 
hand, a dry atmosphere is fatal to the well¬ 
being of trie plants. Not only overhead, but 
the ash bottom for the pots to stand on, must 
Ik; kept constantly moistened, or thrip will 
soon make their appearance. Do not allow 
the plants to get pot-bound ere they are 
placed into pots 6 inches and 7 inches in 
diameter—the latter large enough to grow 
good specimens in. Let the soil be less fine 
with a little fresh horse-droppings rubbed 
through a £ inch meshed sieve, and a little 
soot added, the whole to be well mixed to¬ 
gether before using. As growth advances 
give each plant space to develop. Fumigate 
of an evening immediately fly is noticed, 
XL All being safe to use, and watch for the 
leaf miner, a pest that often attacks Ciner¬ 
arias and quickly spoils the foliage. Give 
weak doses of manure-water twice each week 
ns the pots become full of roots, varying the 
food frequently, standing the plants near 
the glass while growing, as well as occasion¬ 
ally turning them round, to keep them sym¬ 
metrical. While giving abundance of air, 
see that frost does not reach them, and use 
as little fire-heat as possible. 

J. Mayne. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Dianthus Lady Dixon.— During a visit to 
the nursery of Messwk-^Iugh Low and Sons, 
at Enfield, I was mjrpr^J L (6iafl»ite » 


number of flowering examples of this pretty 
and interesting mule Pink associated with 
the Carnations, and flowering freelv in 5-inch 
and 6-inch pots.* It is not a noveltv, having 
been given an award of merit by the Royal 
Horticultural Society on May 7th, 1901, when 
it was much adpiired. It was announced as 
the result of across between a Sweet William 
(the seed parent) and the well-known and 
popular Carnation Uriah Pike. The general 
appearance of the plant suggests its origin, as 
marked traces of both its parents are visible. 
Reaching as it does a height of 15 inches to 
18 inches, the 6tems are freely branched and 
bear a considerable number of flowers, which 
are each about a couple of inches across, 
very double, and with prettily crisped and 
notched petals. The colour is a rich crim¬ 
son, shaded with magenta, and the flowers 
have a pleasing fragrance. Concerning its 
behaviour out-of-doors I can say nothing, but 
under glass it certainly forms a pleasing 
break away from the American Carnations 
now so popular.—G. S. C. 

Fancy Pelargoniums. Like “Towns¬ 
man,” page 124, I have been much struck 
with the way in which this pretty race of 
flowering Pelargoniums is now neglected in 
gardens. This I attribute to the craze for 
everything large, for nowadays with most 
people size counts before anything else. In 
the days when specimen planks were so 
popular fancy Pelargoniums were to l>e met 
with in most gardens, and while I do not 
advocate a return to these large masses, neat, 
well flowered plants are valuable for the em¬ 
bellishment. of the greenhouse.* Another sec¬ 
tion that has fallen from its one-time high 
estate to nearly the same extent as the fancy 
varieties is the show Pelargonium, which is 
almost ousted by the stronger growing kinds 
known as decorative, French, or Regal Pelar¬ 
goniums. The tricolor-leaved varieties, too, 
in their day enjoyed a large extent of popu¬ 
larity ; now they are as much neglected as the 
others above alluded to. As a set off the Ivy¬ 
leaved and the Zonal kinds are grown far 
more than they ever were before, and their 
popularity does not at preseqt seem likely to 
decrease. The whirligig of fashion will, how¬ 
ever, most probably, be responsible for many 
changes, horticultural and otherwise. At 
present huge flowers hold the sway, as is 
shown by the taste for Malmaison Carnations, 
which, to my mind, are the least beautiful of 
their race indeed, I regard them as posi¬ 
tively ugly.—X. 

Impatiens Holst !.— 1 This Balsam from 
Central Africa has found its way into many 
gardens, a result not. at, all surprising, for it 
is of easy culture, and the colour of the flowers 
(bright vermilion) is very effective. Com¬ 
pared with the now well-known Impatiens 
Sultani, it is of a more spreading and sturdy 
habit of growth, while it is even more free 
flowering. A group of plants in pote 5 inches 
in diameter forms just now a very attractive 
feature in the greenhouse, in which struc¬ 
ture. despite its many occupants, there is 
nothing else which can be compared with-this 
Balsam. Its cultural requirements are 
simple, for while seeds can be readily ob¬ 
tained from most seedsmen, cuttings also root 
without difficulty. In ordinary potting com¬ 
post in a light part of the greenhouse this 
Balsam grows and flowers freely. In the 
winter an intermediate temperature is best 
suited to it. A hybrid, I. Peetersiana, has 
been raised on the continent between I. 
Holsti and I. Hawkeri, this being of more 
upright, growth, while the flowers are con¬ 
siderably suffused with magenta. In my 
opinion, it is not nearly so good a garden 
plant a a 1. Holsti. No notice of these newer 
Balsams would be complete without mention 
of another Centrdl African species—viz., Im¬ 
patiens Olivieri, a bold growing plant, with 
large flowers of a kind of mauve or very pale 
lavender tint.—X. 

Two beautiful new Spiraeas.— It may. to 
some, appear out of place to speak of plants 
as new which as long as three years ago were 
exhibited at Holland Park show, and awarded 
the gold medal of the Royal Horticultural 
Society. Such are these Spiraeas, but in ex¬ 
planation thereof it may be mentioned that 
they have not yet been distributed to the 
public, but will' be during the forthcoming 
autumn, when, no (loubt, there wdj be a very 


great demand for them. They belong to the 
astilboides and japonica section of the genus, 
the main feature being that the plume-like 
masses of flowers are pink instead of white. 
The two varieties, named respectively Queen 
Alexandra and Peach Blossom, differ in shade, 
but the flowers of both are of a charming 
hue quite distinct from that of any other 
greenhouse plant that I am acquainted with 
For hard forcing they may not be so valuable 
as the older white-flowered kinds, for it is 
very probable 6uch treatment would result in 
pale tinted flowers, but, brought on gently 
under glass, as a fine group at the Temple 
show had been, they will prove invaluable for 
greenhouse decoration, and. undoubtedly, 
have a great future before them. The fact 
that they are announced at a moderate price 
will bring them within the reach of all.—X. 

Dwarf-growing Lantanas.— Within the 
last few years the different garden varieties 
of Lantana have considerably advanced in 
popularity, being used either for planting out 
during the summer months or for the em¬ 
bellishment of the greenhouse at that period. 
They are all easily-grown plants, needing 
much the same treatment as a Fuchsia—that 
is to say, they should lie kept moderately dry 
at the roots throughout the winter, when, 
with the return of spring, under the influence 
of additional heat and moisture, they will 
grow freely and flower for months together. 
Seedlings are now raised in quantity; in 
fact, some prefer to obtain their stock of 
plants in this way, while others propagate by 
means of cuttings from well-oetablished and 
named varieties. Some are of far more 
vigorous growth than others, there being a 
few of qui te a dwarf, compact habit of growth. 
Two of the best of this class are Drap d’Or, 
whose blossoms are of a rich yellow colour, 
and Chelsea Gem, in which they are scarlet. 
Both were well shown at the recent Temple 
show.—X. 

Habranthus pratensls.— Among the more 
uncommon subjects noted at the recent 
Temple show was a number of flowering 
plants of Habranthus pratensis, a very beau¬ 
tiful member of the Amaryllis family, but 
one not often met with. The flower-stem 
reaches a height of 1 foot to 18 inches, and 
is terminated by a loose umbel of blossoms. 
The individual flowers are, in size and shape, 
very much like those of Hemerocallis flava, 
but stouter in substance, while the colour is 
light - scarlet, with a greenish tinge towards 
the base of the throat. Though generally 
known under the above name, and as such a 
coloured plate of it was given in The Garden 
as long ago as 1878, it is now included in the 
genus Hippeastrum. In catalogues and gar 
dens the name of Habranthus is, however, 
generally retained. It is a native of Chili, 
and is fairly hardy in this county— that is 
to say, it needs much the same conditions as 
the Belladonna Lily delights in—viz., planted 
out in a warm, well-drained border at the 
foot of a south wall.—X. 


Home made Orris-root.— My garden is over- 
un with Iris florentina. Could I make my own 
irris-root, and how?—F. J. Dutton. 

[The three species ot Iris—viz., I. ger- 
aanica, I. pallida, and I. florentina-are 
ultivated for the production of Orris-root, 
he last being far less common than the other 
wo. Dig up the roots in August, peel them, 
.nd trim them and lav them out under a shed 
o drv. In Northern Italy they are dried in 
he open air. The root-stock of these Irises 
a fleshy, jointed, and branching, creeping 
lorizon'tallv near the surface of the ground, 
t is formed in old plants of the annual joints 
if five or six successive years, the oldest ol 
vhich are evidently in a state of decay, 
flies* joints are 3 inches to 4 inches long, 
aid often more than 2 inches thick. The rhi- 
lome is, externally, yellowish-brown, > nslcl ® 
vhite and juicy, "ith an earthy smell and 
tcrid taste. In the process of drying it 
rraduallv acquires its pleasant \ inlet odoui. 
nit it is said not to attain its highest frag- 
ance until it has been kept two years.] 

“The BnKllsh Flower Garden and Home 
grounds.—Arte Edition, "vital, 

,f all the beet plant,, trere, and thrube, theirndt i 
ini arrangement, Ulugtrated on wood. Cloth , medium, 
too., Vis. ; post fret, 15s. 6d . 


URI 




IN 



Junk 15, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


201 



TREES AND SHRUBS. 

MAGNOLIA RUSTICA RUBRA. 
Among the gains of this finest family of 
6 hrubs is this- fine in colour and as hardy 
as any. It was figured in the first number of 
Flora and Sylva from a fine drawing by the 1 
late Henry Moon, which gives a true life- ! 
size representation. The plant continues to 
grow freely in cool, sandy loam of ordinary I 


PROPAGATING SHRUBS BY ROOT- 
CUTTINGS. 

The number of plants that can bo propa¬ 
gated by means of root cuttings is somewhat 
limited, yet, when it is possible to success¬ 
fully increase them in this way, it is very de¬ 
sirable, for, after starting, the young plants 
as a rule grow as freely a*s those raised from 
seeds, without ajiy of the branch-like charac¬ 
ter often seen in plants propagated from cut¬ 


mostly increased by that method. The beau¬ 
tiful Xanthoceras sorbifolia grows from root 
cuttings, but the quicker way is to graft a 
shoot on to a portion of the root, which 6oon 
unites and grows freely. The same prin¬ 
ciple is generally carried out to increase the 
varieties of Althsea frutex or Hibiscus syria- 
cus, but cuttings of the roots will grow freely 
enough. As so many are grafted, it is often 
difficult to obtain the variety on its own 
roots. Aralia spinosa can be increased 
readily in this way, as also 
Clerodendron trichotomura, 
which blossoms so late in the 
autumn. Many kinds of 
Brambles will grow freely 
from the roots. The cut¬ 
ting taking must, of course, 
be limited to the transplant¬ 
ing season, when a few good 
roots may often be taken off 
without in any way injuring 
the plant. 

As it is not always possible 
to take all the cuttings of 
one kind at once, a good way 
is to lay them in till a suf¬ 
ficient number is thus accu¬ 
mulated, when they may be 
inserted permanently in the 
ground. A length of 4 inches 
or 5 inches is very suitable 
for the cuttings, and in the 
case of some subjects that 
taper but slightly, care must 
be taken not to put the cut¬ 
ting into the ground upside 
down, as that is easily done 
if not attended to. I put the 
cuttings into a bed of light 
sandy soil, so situated that 
the spot is sheltered from 
hot drying winds, and where 
the 6oil is never thoroughly 
parched up. 

When inserted in the open 
ground, the cuttings should 
be placed in a perpendicular 
manner, and buried deep 
enough for the upper portion 
to be about 2 inches below 
the surface, but the more 
particular subjects should be 
protected by a frame, and in 
their case so much covering 
is not necessary, as the 
frame shelters them to a 
great extent from the wind. 
A covering of about half an 
inch of soil will be sufficient. 

T. 


[Magnolia rustica rubra. 


NOTES AND REPLIES . 

Cytisus Adami —I would be 
greatly obliged if you could give 
me any clue, through the medium 
of the paper, to the enclosed 
mystery? The blossoms are all 
cut from a common Laburnum- 
tree, but neither the gardener nor 
anyone can tell what has been 
grafted on to the tree to produce 
the pink blossom, such blossom 
appearing on the same branches 
with the ordinary yellow, while 
here and there, all over the tree, 
what appear to be bushes of 
purple Broom, same as those en¬ 
closed, sprout out. The general 
effect is very curious.—E nquirer, 
Godaiming. 

[The peculiar blossoms to 
which you refer are those of 
Cytisus Adami, which is sup¬ 
posed to have originated by 
grafting the purple Labur¬ 
num (C. purpureus) on to the 
common form, both of which 
you send, a graft hybrid be¬ 
ing the result.] 


quality, and flowers abundantly every year. 
It is a little sheltered from the east by trees, 
but is otherwise fully exposed. It is one of 
the hybrids raised on the Continent, and is 
certainly one of the best. 


Catting down Furze and Sweet Briers 

<D. T.).—Cut the Furze-hedge down as soon as you 
can, bo as to encourage growth. In the case of the 
Penzance Briers, you can cut them down to about 
half their length next February, in the following 
years cutting down a shoot or two quite to the 
ground each season, so as to prevent the bare ap¬ 
pearance of the plants youjrefw to. 

Co gle 


tings of the shoots. I have been successful 
in raising from root cuttings the following 
! trees and shrubs, not ft few, but a large num¬ 
ber of each: The Ailantus grows away 
rapidly, and soon forms large plants, as do 
the different species of Rhus, especially the 
large pinnate-leaved Stag’s-horn clase, among 
which is included the handsome Rhus glabra 
laciniata. Koelrcuteria paniculata may also 
! bo increased in this way, as also Paulownia 
imperialis and the Catalpas, though, as seed 
I of these may readily be obtained, they are 


Growing Lilacs (Riduna ).—Lilacs raised from 
seed do not flower so freely when young as those pro¬ 
pagated by means of cuttings, and if yours are seed¬ 
lings their non-flowering up to the present is to a 
great extent accounted for. You say nothing as to 
the conditions under which they are grown, and, in 
absence of any particulars, we can only say that the 
Lilac flowers best in a fairly good loamy soil in a 
spot fully exposed to the sun and where there is a 
free circulation of air. Suckers should not be allowed 
to develop, and the weak shoots must be thinned 
out in order that the sun and air may have full play, 
und thus ensure thorough ripening of the wood and 
consequent formation of flower-buds. 

UNIVEKSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 

l IRRAMA-rHAMPAIftM 









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Original from 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



June 15, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


203 


crowns arc stricken by the sun, and are 
roasted and parched up. Naturally, Prim¬ 
roses get friendly shade from a stronger vege¬ 
tation. Now is the time to sow if good 
blooming plants are required for next spring, 
and if a little warmth can be given, the seeds 
will germinate more quickly and all the more 
surely. When the young plants are well up, 
get them out without delay into a cool frame, 
guarding against checks of all kinds. Prick 
them out when large enough to handle into 
pans or boxes, put them into a cool sheltered 
place, and us soon as the leaves l>cgin to 
touch, plant them in their permanent quar¬ 
ters. Work the ground well before planting, 
forking in a good coat of «oot, which this j 
class of plant seems to like. Water as 
needed, and they will make fine plants by the 
end of the autumn. All who can do so should 
sow the seed ns soon as ripe. There is no 
comparison between the germination of seed 
a year old and that which is sown within a 
month or so of gathering. The one comes 
up sparsely and tardily. Some of it not at. all ; 
of the other, not a seed seems to miss. 


frames, whilst in partly-shaded gardens 
round arches and summer arbours Hops 
thrive. Much has appeared in the press of 
late in regard to the effect of the severe win¬ 
ter on many plants, and I know several in¬ 
stances where creepers have been killed out¬ 
right. It is interesting, however, to find an 
exception, and in tlie place where I stayed I 
noticed that Solanum jasminoides, planted 
on a sheltered wall, looked all right; hut, 
strange to say, it is not always plants exposed 
as on the east- coast that fail in a severe 
winter, but those inland.— Woodbastwick. 


CLEMATIS FAlItY QUEEN. 

Few plants are more useful for covering 
rustic fences or arches than the Clematis in 
: its many sjjecics and varieties, their verdure 
clothing, and yet not hiding the framework. 
A j)ergola or something of this sort is the 
place on which to grow the Clematis, if one 
would see it at its best. The variety Fairy 
Queen, a bloom of which we figure to-day, 


are any signs of the fungus spray all the 
plants with *a‘solution of li oz. of potassium 
in three gallons of water, at the same time 
removing any decayed foliage and burning it. 
A simple remedy that some cultivators have 
tried with more or less success is to dig up 
the bulbs and put them for two or three weeks 
| into paper bags with a quantity of sulphur, 
this being fatal to the fungus. Then plant, 

I choosing a spot quite removed from their 
previous position. In the spring and sum¬ 
mer, as growth begins, dust every fortnight 
with sulphur. This has been recommended, 
but we fear a perfect cure has yet to be 
j found for the disease.] 

Outdoor garden. -Everybody with a gnr- 
I den is now busy making arrangements for the 
summer display. All plants which have been 
hardened by exposure may be planted now. 
Most people have, or ought to have, made 
their plans for filling the beds now. Those 
who propagate their own plants usually do 
this in the autumn, and work up stock nr- 
I cordingly. There is still a large demand for 



Clematis Fairy Queen. Flowers pale flesh with pink bar. 


Plants sown at that time will bloom the first 
year not abundantly, but the flowers will be 
of excellent quality. 


Climbers in seaside gardens.— Many 
climbing plants that inland do not always 
grow well seem to thrive to a wonderful de¬ 
gree on the coast, and that, too, in places 
where they arc exposed. An example of this 
came under my notice when staying a few' 
days at. a little seaside resort in the eastern 
counties. In the middle of May I found 
many Gloire de Dijon Roses on house-fronts 
in full bloom. Honeysuckles showing colour, 
and Wistarias almost bursting into bloom. 
Pyrus japouica bail well-nigh spoilt itself, but 
Kerri as on walls and in busli form were a 
mass of beauty. Wherever one goes Clema¬ 
tises are sure to be met with, and around the 
house where I stayed f found Jackmani with 
long, vigorous shoots, that in a few' weeks 
henoe will be laden with blossoms at every 
point. The light sandy soil seems to suit 
6 uch things os Passifloras, judging by the 
many one sees round balconies and window'- 

DWtlzed by Google 


belongs to the lanuginosa section, the flowers 
of a pale flesh, with a distinct pink bar. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Orange Lilies failing —Would you kindly tell 
me what is the cause of these Lilies failing? They 
have been growing in good soil for two years, and 
were very good last year. They have been looking 
very healthy and promising until last week, when I 
noticed one was getting brown: now all the rest are 
becoming just the same.—Miss Shaw. 

[Your Lilies have, unfortunately, been 
attacked by that terrible disease—no doubt 
of fungoid origin —that ha« destroyed the 
Madonna Lily in many gardens. According 
to Mr. Massie, of Kew, this fungus remains 
dormant in the soil during the winter; then, 
when the plants are growing freely, a large 
number of 6pore£ are produced, which float 
in the air and adhere to the moistened sur¬ 
face of the leaves, as in the specimens you 
send. Various remedies have been tried, but 
none of them have, as yet, proved Successful, 
though in some cases the attack has been 
lessened. The following has been recom¬ 
mended as a cure, viz.—as soon as there 


scarlet Pelargoniums ; Henry Jacoby and 
West Brighton Gem are still popular. Iias- 
pail is being used freely for bedding, and its 
habit is neat and compact. There is a pink 
variety of Raspail which is well spoken of. 
The double Lobelia is likely to be popular, 
and it is now quite cheap. It makes a neat 
dark blue edging. The ground is moist now, 
and the plants will soon get established. I 
would rather plant when the surface is dry, 
as treading land when wet makes it hard, 
and the roots do not work so well in it. When 
it is necessary to plant in wet weather short 
boards can be used. The May Tulips are 
still bright, but where Begonias are grown 
the Tulip beds can be made ready for them. 
The fibrous-rooted Begonias are being planted 
a good deal.—E. H. 

Aqullegias —1 have had a curious experience with 
Aquilegias, and should be glad to know if any of 
your correspondents have noticed the same thing? 1 
had some beautiful-spurred seedlings last year, which 
have reverted to the old Columbine type this year, 
and though the same colours are reproduced, there 
are no spurs. Can you tell me whether this is usual, 
and whether the-seeds of spurred varieties produce 
red flows ? - AQf 11 EP lA 


ILLINC 


NA-CHAl 


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UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



Joke 15, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


205 


GARDEN WORK. 

Conservatory. —Very few people grow 
Ericas now, and yet when well done they are 
very attractive, and nt this season they will 
last a lone time. Epaerises, again, are even 
more easily managed than Ericas. Epacris 
miniata splendens is a free-growing species 
that flowers late in spring and early summer. 
This family—in fact, all the fine-rooted Cape 
and Indian shrubs—must have good peat, con¬ 
taining plenty of fibre, and be freely mixed 
with sharp sand. Clean, well-drained pots, 
and firm potting are also essential. With 
careful watering and free ventilation there 
should be no difficulty in growing good speci¬ 
mens. All hard-wooded plants should have 
an outing in the open air in summer, when 
the young growth is getting firm. The ripen¬ 
ing effect of free exposure for a time is very 
necessary to secure abundance of flowers. 
Good specimens of white and pink Hydran¬ 
geas are very effective in the cool conserva¬ 
tory now’. After flowering prune well back, 
and when the growth has been made place 
outside in the sunshine to ripen, and leave 
them as long as it is safe. This ripening is 
very important if the plants have to be forced 
even moderately. Any plants which have 
missed flowering should receive a shift, and 
by and-bye be placed outside to ripen. Cut¬ 
tings of the strong young shoots will root now 
and up till August. We strike our cuttings 
in boxes generally, but if % large number is 
required the cuttings are dibbled into a 
frame where there is still a little bottom- 
heat. If kept closed, lightly shaded, and 
sprinkled occasionally to keep the leaves 
fresh, roots will quickly form, when the 
plants may be lifted with balls and potted in 
a mixture of loam, peat, and sand. If potted 
altogether in peat, there is a chance of get¬ 
ting blue flowers. Keep cool through the 
winter, and each plant in a 5-inch pot will 
produce one good head of bloom. These 
plants, if cut back after flowering, may pro¬ 
duce good specimens the second year. 

Stove. —Do not oversliade, especially where 
bright-leaved plants are grown. Where pos¬ 
sible, Crotons, Draccenas, and Caladiums 
should have a house to themselves, provided 
with a roller blind. During the hottest part 
of the day the blind may be run down, for no 
plants ca-n stand under glass on a blazing hot 
day without something to subdue the light, 
but as little shade as possible, beyond pre¬ 
venting scorching, should be used. Scorch¬ 
ing does not take place in a saturated atmos¬ 
phere, and a good deal can be done to obviate 
the necessity for shading by flooding the 
paths. Of course, Ferns and Orchids must 
nave shade, and the same remark applies to 
most stove plants, but a permanent shade 
should be very thinly laid on, if used at all. 
The ventilation should be in proportion to 
the warmth of the day. There are days when 
every light may be open to almost its full 
capacity with advantage ; and there are other 
days when only a small crack along the ridge 
will suffice, when the summer weather is 
really here. Many winter flowering stove 
plants will flower all the better for a month 
outside in a sheltered corner. Autumn and 
winter-flowering bulbs, such as V allot as and 
'Crinums, flow T er better after a roasting out¬ 
side, and I have had Eucharis Lilies flower 
well after a month’s exposure, but they must 
not be overwatered. Shift on winter-flower¬ 
ing plants, such as Begonias, Euphorbias, 
etc. These will do best now in a low pit or 
frame. 

Ripening fruit under glass. It is not 

well to stop watering inside borders till the 
Grapes arc nearly ripe, especially where the 
fruit is expected to hang some time, as when 
the roots are in a dry border the Grapes shrivel 
before the usual time. It is important to 
know what condition the borders are in and 
how far the roots have w r andered away. It 
is very difficult to keep Vine roots close at 
home, but if a good system of applying rich 
surface dressings is adopted, the inducement 
to wander is not so great, especially when 
the roots have moisture enough. If the roots 
of a fruit-tree of any kind rush down into the 
subsoil they are after the moisture which 
ought to be provided near the surface. A 
mulch of dry litter on^ilje borders qf both 
Peach-houses and viSeries, -is ' 



checking evaporation, and keeps down dust, 
but this need not be used until the fruits are 
nearly ripe, and watering, for the time being, 
has ceased. A heavy watering on Peach 
borders when the fruits are nearly ripe may 
seriously injure the flavour. Melons and 
Pines deteriorate in flavour in a similar man¬ 
ner from the same cause. The worst thing 
that, can happen to fruit borders is to keep 
them too dry whilst the fruits are swelling 
in the early stages, as this often causes crack¬ 
ing and early decay. 

Orchard-house.- Do not crowd the trees. 
We very often start witli more trees than the 
house can accommodate through the season, 
and then about the middle of June or a little 
later thin out by moving a few trees to other 
houses, where there is more room, and some 
of the late Plums will be plunged outside in 
a sunny position. This really prolongs the 
season. Pears, if any are grown, may be 
plunged out in the sunshine, and carefully 
watered and syringed, if hot weather comes. 
Very free ventilation is necessary now, but 
we always close the house an hour or two 
when the syringing takes place in the after¬ 
noon. This gives a fillip to the swelling of the 
fruits, and keeps down red-spider. When 
the moisture has been dissipated the ridge 
ventilators are opened for the night about 
3 inches, so that there is a constant circu¬ 
lation. 

Canker on Melons. This seldom happens 
in warm houses, but it does sometimes give 
trouble in frames where the heat is declining 
if the plants have been carelessly watered. 
The disease is a fungus, and attacks the main 
steins, very often appearing within a 6hort 
distance of the roots. The cause is loss of 
heat in the bed and too much water round 
the main stem of the plant. Bad cases can¬ 
not be cured, but the disease can be checked 
by keeping a drier atmosphere and covering 
the diseased stems with quicklime or char¬ 
coal dust or a mixture of the two, and re¬ 
placing it from time to time when the 
material has lost its power. It is not neces¬ 
sary to water round the main stem, as the 
real feeding rootlets are not there. Keep the 
water supply where the roots are feeding, 
and use chilled water, either warmed by the 
sun or otherwise, and there will not be much 
trouble from canker. 

Plants for brackets in the room.— There 
are several Tradescantias which have a very 
ornamental appearance hanging from a pot 
on a bracket, and they are among the easiest 
things to grow. Dibble half-a-dozen cut¬ 
tings round the sides of a 5-inch pot, and in 
a short time the plants will be well furnished 
and hanging over the sides of the pot. Cam¬ 
panulas, blue and white, are excellent for 
the same purpose. Lobelia gracilis and the 
new double are nioe for a change, and Ivy¬ 
leaved Geraniums everybody can grow. 
Asparagus Sprengeri is a charming plant for 
basket or bracket. 

Outdoor garden. —All deciduous-flowering 
shrubs should l>e pruned as soon as the 
blooms fade. A little pruning annually will 
keep the bushes in good condition. Conifers 
may have what pruning is necessary now. 
This refers more especially to the spiral¬ 
growing specimens, which, if not pruned a 
little, get out of shape. Thin the buds of 
Roses to secure a continuous bloom. Insects 
must always be dealt with promptly, before 
they increase. Any plant which has been 
badly infested with insects takes a long time 
to recover. It must always be borne in mind 
that weakly, delicate plants are more likely 
to be attacked by insects than those in full 
vigour, therefore the good cultivator has 
fewer troubles in this matter than he who is 
neglectful and procrastinates. A mulch of 
short manure will help Carnations and Pinks. 
Carnations should l>e carefully staked and 
loosely tied, so that the flower-stems can rise 
without injury. There will be a good deal of 
pegging down and staking to do now, and 
labour and time will be saved if the work is 
done in time. Finish the planting out of sub- 
tropicals. Begonias and other tender things 
may go out. Balsams planted thinly over a 
groundwork of Harrison’s Musk will make an 
effective group. Both plants love moisture, 
and it is a combination which may be placed 
in a low, dump situation. 


Fruit garden.—I hear in some low-lying 
districts the Strawberries, especially the 
early blossoms of Royal Sovereign, have been 
damaged by frost. T*his popular variety does 
occasionally suffer in that way in low or damp 
situations. Sir J. Paxton pays better in such 
positions. The best position for a fruit gar¬ 
den is, no doubt, about half way down a 
long, sloping hillside, facing south or south¬ 
west in preference to east. When fruit blos¬ 
som suffers from frost it i9 due more to the 
sudden thaw, when the sun shines upon the 
chilled blossoms, than to the actual cold. In 
a very cold spring one often finds more Plums 
on the north side of the wall than on better 
aspects. The ground has had ft good soak¬ 
ing of rain, and if Raspberries are mulched 
with good manure the crop will be a heavy 
one, as the mulch will keep the moisture in 
the ground. When Raspberries fail it gener* 
ally arises from lack of nourishment, chiefly 
in the shape of moistirre. Regulate the 
growth of Peaches and use Tobacco-powder. 

Vegetable garden.— Plant out Lettuces in 
succession and sow a few seeds of approved 
varieties fortnightly. On dry, porous soil sow 
thinly, and leave most of the plants without 
• dist urbance. Splendid Lettuces can bo grown 
on the ridges between the Celery. This is 
due to the extra depth of soil. Work in win¬ 
ter spent in deepening the soil is of great 
advantage when the time of trial comes in 
summer. We never have too much sunshine 
in this country where the land is properly 
worked. It is useless sowing ordinary 
Spinach now, but the New Zealand Spinach, 
planted 2 feet apart in patches of three, will 
soon cover the ground and produce succu¬ 
lent leaves freely. The Spinach Beet is also 
excellent, the only objection being its paler 
colour, and, of course, the flavour is dif¬ 
ferent, but it will pass, and is decidedly 
wholesome. There are other substitutes for 
Spinach, but the two named above are the 
most useful. Good King Henry is grown a 
good deal in Lincolnshire, but its flavour and 
texture are coarse in comparison with those 
of the crops named. It has the advantage of 
being hardy and easily grown. 

E. HoBpAY. 

THE COMING WEEK’S WORK. 

Extracts from a Garden Diary. 

June 17th .—Finished planting Tomatoes 
outside. Some of the plants had been shifted 
into 5-inch pots, and have one truss of blos¬ 
soms. They were, of course, staked at once 
and mulched, and will now be safe for a time. 
All the tender things after being well har¬ 
dened have now been planted out. The bed 
for Cannas lias been freely enriched with 
manure and good soil, and will be kept moist. 
These are in a sheltered position, as the wind 
injures the foliage if much exposed. Sweet 
Peas in bloom are receiving liquid manure. 

June 18th .—Special attention is now given 
to late Grapes under glass, in removing sub¬ 
laterals and tying the shoots carrying 
bunches of Grapes down as far from the glass 
as possible. A little air is given along the 
ridge not later than six o’clock, when the sun 
is shining on the house. The shifting of 
Chrysanthemums into the flowering pots is 
still*going on. The soil is turfy and of the 
best quality, ^specially the loam, and is forti¬ 
fied by the addition of a pound of artificial 
plant food to every bushel. In this the plants 
make excellent growth. 

June 19th .—We had a rough time among 
the weeds everywhere, hut are now getting 
the upper hand. This is a case in which no 
delay or quarter can be given. Pegging down 
Verbenas and other things which require it 
is receiving attention, and staking plants 
which require support is nnother matter 
which is urgent. Then there is always pot¬ 
ting to be done, and seedlings to be pricked 
off. Calceolarias have been sown, and a few 
seeds of Chinese Primulas for late blooming 
have just been sown. 

June 20th .—The dolphin-flies on Broad 
Beans have been cleared off by nipping off the 
extreme ends of the plants before the flies 
had a chance to spread downwards. The 
young shoots on newly grafted trees have 
been supported with sticks tied to the 
branches to prevent damage from winds. 
Sowed more Autocrat Peas and dwarf French 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Joke ID, 1907 


206 


Beans with a couple of long rows of the 
white-seeded Scarlet Runner, as this bears 
so well late in the season. 

June 21st .—Shifted on a collection of the 
newer Japanese Maples, as we find them use¬ 
ful for furnishing the cold conservatory. 
Made a large sowing of Turnips—white, yel¬ 
low, and red. The Black Stone will be sown 
later. This does not get large, blit it stands 
the winter well, and, although the outer skin 
is black, the flesh is white and sweet. Celery 
is being planted out as fast as Injul can be 
cleared. Made a last sowing of VValeheren 
Cauliflower. 

June 22nd. Earthed up late Potatoes. 
Where more than two stems have shown they 
have boon reduced to that number. The 
young shoots of Rasplierries have l>een 
thinned, and a mulch of manure placed on 
each side of the rows. The thinning of root, 
crops is being proceeded with. Shifted 
American Tree-Carnations into 6-inch pots, 
using the best compost obtainable. Early- 
flowering show Pelargoniums which are past 
their best have been placed outside to ripen 
growth, preparatory to cutting down. 
Planted out. more Brussels Sprouts and late 
Cauliflowers. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

Questions.— Queries anil ansi errs arr inserted in 
Gakiwni.no free, of charge if correspondents follow these 
rulex: All communications should be clearlfi and concisely 
written on one side of the paper only, awl addressed to 
the Editor of Gakdkninu, 17, Inimical-street, Ilolbom, 
Loiulon, hl.C. Letters on buxines* should be sent to the. 
Pi'BLisiiKR. The. tut me and address of the sender are 
required in addition to any designation he way desire to 
be used in the paper. When wore than one i/very is sent, 
each should be on a separate piece, of paper, and not wore 
than three queries should Ih' sent at a time. Correspon¬ 
dents should bear in wind that, as Gardkmno has to be 
sent to press some time in ad ranee of date, queries cannot 
always be replied to in the issue immediately following 
the receipt of their communication. We do not reply to 
queries by post. 

Naming' fruit. Readers who desire our help in 
naming fruit should hear in mind that several specimens 
in different stages of colour and size of the same kind 
greatly assist in its determination. H> have received from 
several correspondents single specimens of fruits for 
naming, these, in many cases being unripe and other¬ 
wise poor. The differences between varieties of fruits are 
in many cases so trilling that it is necessary that three, 
tjiccimt'ns of each kitul should be sent. We can undertake 
to name only four varieties at a time, and these only when 
the above, directions are observed. 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

Lifting bulbs ( Amateur , Bishop's Storlford).— 
You ought to allow tin- bulbs to ripen properly be¬ 
fore you lift them. Leave them alone until the 
foliage dies down, then lift them and dry them, stor¬ 
ing them away in a cool place till you wish to re¬ 
plant in the early autumn. You may thin the Apples 
and Pears as soon as you see that, they are beginning 
to swell. Many of the Plums will, no doubt, fall otf, 
ho you luid better wait lor some time until you see 
that the crop is assured. 

Cosmos (Hinton). This plant comes from Mexico, 
and not, as you say, from the Cape. It is a tender 
annual, and is best raised by sowing the seeds in 
March in a heated frame, pricking out into boxes or 
pans, finally transplanting in May to good, rich soil, 
with a warm exposure. Another good way is to pot 
your small seedlings singly into 6U pots, growing them 
on in a frame and planting out when well hardened 
oil as directed above. If you only want a few plants, 
we strongly advise you to give this method a trial, 
as we have always Imd g«>od results from treating in 
this w r ay. 

Deutzia gracilis after blooming (J. JR. L.).— 
Deiltzias that have been forced or flowered in the 
greenhouse should be gradually hardened off, so that 
when all danger of frost is past they may he stood 
out-of-doors. At that time any old and exhausted 
wood should be cut out in order to allow mom for the 
development, of young and vigorous shoots, while, if 
necessary, the plants may be repotted The great 
point is to have the wood well ripened by standing 
the plants in a sunny position during the summer, 
taking care that during growth they never sudor from 
want of water. Deutzias will stand for years in the 
same pots and flower well each season, provided they 
are occasionally watered witli liquid-manure during 
tiie growing period. 

Wireworiu destroying (John Johnstone).-Those 
are very dilllcult to get rid of, and turning them up 
out of the ground is the only effectual way of deal¬ 
ing with them. Paraffin-oil and various other in¬ 
secticides would, no doubt, kill them, if they could 
be brought into contact with them, but it is almost 
impossible to do this, as the earth acts as a filler. 
Moreover, as the insects are at the roots of the 
plants, soaking the soil with an insecticide would do 
strov the. roots. Watering the roots with a solution 
of nitrate of soda or sulphate of ammonia would do 
good, as this would help the plants to resist their 
attacks, and these* subjects are distasteful to the 
wirewonns. Rape-rake is a good trap. Bury small 
pieces just below tin* soil to attract the wireworms 
away from the plants. You might also bury small 
slices of Mangolds, Tiirniiu»rBpt at oca, or Carets below 
t lie surface, a small sMfwcr bcioig . t iiet Ini^ each 
slice tdD4$Jw30ftrfe th| ^ tr: ‘l lS 


should be examined every morning. If you care to 
try gas-lime, then, in the autumn apply this at the 
rate of 2 bushels to 3 rods of ground, putting it 
down in heaps and then spreading it evenly over the 
soil. Let it lie thus for a month, and then dig it in. 
You must not crop ground so dressed for at least 
three months. 

Moss in lawn (T. R.. Clapham).— It may be that 
your lawn is wet, in which case the only remedy is to 
have it drained, as, until you do this, the Moss will 
continue to grow. You must attend to this next 
autumn. In the meantime you might try sulphate of 
iron, mixing it in the proportion of 1 lb. of sulphate 
to 2 gallons of water. Make it in a w'ooden cask, 
and with soft, water, if possible, and also just before 
using it. Apply the mixture through a rosed water- 
can over a space of 1ft square yards. Jf the sulphate 
is acting, the Muss will turn black and wither away. 
If the flotation is too weak, the Moss will only turn 
red, and another application will be necessary. If the 
lawn Is very poor, then you must topdress it well in 
the coming autumn. 

Plants for carpet bedding ( T. Martin).— When 
asking a query it is always advisable to give the 
name of the county from which one writes, as this 
helps considerably in giving an answer. Suitable 
plants for your district (Leicestershire) would be 
Herniaria glabra, green; Antennaria tomentosa, white 
leaved; Stellaria graminea aurea, golden; Scdum 
hispanicum, bronzy-green; S. Ii. glaueum, blue; and 
Cerastium tomentosum, white leaved. These are all 
hardy, and may be increased to any extent by divi¬ 
sion of the clumps, and to a much greater extent if 
pulled into small bits and dibbled out thickly. The 
Golden Feather and Keheveria accunda gluuca are 
also used for carpet-beds. There are many other 
plants, but their uses are restricted and to some ex¬ 
tent controlled by choice and the size bf the bed 
which is being planted. 

TREES AND SHRUBS. 

Pruning flowering shrubs in pots (H\ G. S.). 

—Cut the Forsythia suspensa back hard immediately 
after flowering, leaving only three or four eyes at 
the base of the shoots that, have flowered this year. 
It may be kept in the pot all the summer plunged 
out-of-doors in full sunshine, and must be well sup¬ 
plied with water, an occasional dose of liquid-manure 
being very helpful. Prune back the Guelder Rose 
to good plump eyes, and treat as recommended for 
the Forsythia. Do not prune the Laurestinus, but 
treat as above, 'treat the Coronilla as recommended 
for the Laurestimjs. Gut out the old wood of the 
Weigela, not last year’s shoots, and encourage young 
growth; treat as the others. Keep the Lilac clear 
of suckers, cut out any weak ami exhausted shoots, 
allow it to remain in the pot, and treat as above. 

Btriklng the Lilac from cuttings (Af. T. L. E). 
—Cuttings of the Lilae may be taken early in August, 
provided they are put in a garden frame, kept close, 
ami shaded from the sun. They should be formed of 
the shoots of moderate vigour produced on the out¬ 
side of the plant, where they are fully exposed to 
light and air. Cut them off at a length of about 
G inches, immediately below a joint, remove the bot¬ 
tom leaves, and insert firmly into pots of sandy soil. 
Pots ft inches in diameter ure very suitable for the 
purpose, from «ix to eight cuttings being put into one 
pot. When finished a thorough watering must be 
given through a fine rose, and the cuttings should 
then be stood in a frame, kept close, and shaded 
from all sunshine. Cuttings may also be put in dur¬ 
ing the autumn and winter when the leaves have 
fallen, in which case they are inserted in the open 
ground. They should be made about 1 foot in length, 
three parts or which is to be buried in the soil, as 
by this means slight changes of temperuture do not 
influence them. The cuttings must be put. in firmly. 

FRUIT. 

Apricots tco thick {Don). It Is very difficult to 
say Tiow many fruits an Apricot tree should carry, so 
much depending on the strength of the tree and 
whether feeding is regularly ‘carried out. If the tree 
is healthy and a mulch of manure put over the border 
and water frequently applied, discontinuing this 
when the fruits begin to ripen, an Apricot tree will 
carry a heavy crop without injury. 

Mealy bug on Vines ( Chat. fftonehouse ).- Seeing 
you have pretty well cleared the bug and that you 
only find a few, you should procure a bottle of 
methylated spirit ami a camel-hair brush. Go over 
every knob ami spur twice a week for at least two 
months after the Vines arc tied up. If you find any 
mealy-bug, touch it with the spirit, and it will dis¬ 
solve in a moment. In this way you can hooii clear 
out this pest. The trellis, woodwork, and walls must 
also be inspected, as a fresh colony may start from 
these quarters when the Vines themselves are clean. 

VEGETABLES. 

Diseased Peas and Onions (.1. J. //.).—That 
portions of your spring-sown Onions and American 
Wonder Reas arc injured in some way, other portions 
being healthv, causes us to assume that there must 
have’ been some offensive matter in the nig manure 
dressing to cause this partial injury. Possibly, a 
liberal dusting of fresh slaked lime may help tlie 
plants; but by the time you can read this reply, 
either the plants should have grown out. of their 
trouble or have died. We see no reason to assume 
that anv fungoid disease exists on the Pea-branch 
sent. Rather, the hard, wiry nature of ‘the stem 
ieads to the inference that the roots were in some¬ 
thing offensive. You should examine the plants and 
roots of both Onions and Peas to see whether eaten 
by wireworm or maggots. If so, a heavy dusting 
or fresh soot should help to destroy these insects. 

Broad Beans (O. Af.).—Broad or Long I’od Beans, 
as a rule, produce two or three stems from a single 
seed therefore, yours are doing nothing remarkable. 
We have never heard of anyone removing all but a 
single stem to a plant before. The common rule is 
to sow in drills from 21 inches to 30 inches apart, and 


the seeds in the drills 4 inches to 0 inches apart at 
least, though often wider still. Again, when the 
stems have carried a good quantity of bloom—say, 
from 20 inches to 24 inches in height—the tops of 
the stems are pinched out. That serves to strengthen 
the pods which follow and removes the tender or suc¬ 
culent point of the stems on which the black aphis 
habitually fastens to suck the juices or sap of the 
plants. These Beans like deep soil well manured, 
and holding, also liberal waterings in dry weather, 
and mulches or top-dressings of manure between the 
rows. 


SHORT REPLIES. 


Lcithen.— Do not on any account cut the leaves off 

if you want the plants to do well next year. - Vine- 

branches.— Any gardener should be able to supply you 
with some Vine-shoots, if such are what you me&u.-r— 
II. fl.-We should say no. If you want the Rhodo¬ 
dendrons to succeed you must procure proper peat.- 

A. V. H’.—It may be that the plants were too weak 
when planted to flower, or it may be that they are 
what is known as “ barren.” We should leave them, 
and see how they behave next year. If they do not 

flower then throw them out.- West park. — Your 

query re Arnebia echioides was answered in our issue 

of June 1st, p. 182.- A. E. S.— The trouble is due to 

cold weather, and the plants will grow out of it.- 

A. M. White.-We think your best plan will be to 
consult a gardener in your neighbourhood. It is im¬ 
possible for us to advise with any certainty without 

seeing your garden.- L. E. Dillon. — You say nothing 

as to how long the Lilies have been in position, or 
the soil in which they are growing. The roots are 
either very much overcrowded or the soil is very dry 
and exhausted, in which case the only remedy is to 
lift and replant in fresh quarters. -Mrs. J. M 
Downing.—'I be best thing you call do is to find out 
their nests and pour boiling water into them.—— 
EivrUHiys. Your Red Cur rant-bushes are swarming 
with green-fly. Syringe them with paraffin emulsion 
or a mixture or extract of Quassia chips and soft 
soap. Use extract of G ounces of Quassia chips, 
4 ounces of soft soap, and add to ft gallons of water, 

then syringe the lives forcibly with the mixture.- 

V de A. 1, Certainly. See rqply to •* Rust icua," re 
•* Moving Hollies,’* in our issue of June 1st, p. 177. 
2, The Judas-tree ran be planted in the autumn, 
and does best in a light, deep, loamy soil. The tree 

is apt to perish in heavy soils.-- Lilium.—l, There 

are so many Liliuma sold in shops that w ithout seeing 
the flower is it impossible to say to which you refer. 
2, " The English Flower Garden " has cuts of hardy 
flowers, but we know of no book with coloured draw¬ 
ings. 3 , We do not know to wliat Lily you refer under 

the name you give.- Arthur Lawton. Let the 

flowers die olf naturally, and then the new leaves will 
very likely appear. A. B.- Put the cuttings in in 
the autumn in the open air. You will have well- 

rooted plants by the Hpring.- John Crowther.— It is 

difficult to suggest any reason for the state of your 
Roses, as you give us no information as to how they 
are grown and the soil they are growing in. Very 
probably the weather is the cause, or it may be that 

the roots arc dry and the soil very poor.- Scotia.— 

You have no reason to be alarmed. J be plants are 

healthy, and ought to do well.- Linworth tiirdan.— 

Hee reply to J. iloldwuy, re "Unhealthy leaves on 
Pelargoniums,” in our issue of May 4th, ]*. 131.— — 
Clydesdale.— You have made the soil far too rich, this 
resulting in gross and unfruitful growth.- Bramp¬ 

ton.—When the plants are established in the pots 
into which they were first put and a week before you 
give Lhem the second shift. 


NAMES OF PLANTS AND FRUITS. 


Names of plants— Bradshaw.— Mauve flower, 
Muckavu bella; red and orange flower, Cliorozemu 

variuni- K. (1. G.—The Judas-tree (Coreis Siliquus* 

trum).- O. G — Evidently the Stag’s-Horn Sumach; 

should like to see better specimen.- —E. It.—A Star 
of Bethlehem (Ornithogalum); but to name correctly 

must have better specimen.- Novice.— We cannot 

name plants from single leaves only. -0. M.— 
Kremurus robustus. It is hardly fair to send ub only 

single blooms.- Mrs Alcock. -Scilla peruviana.- 

Rubu.—I, Akebia quinata; 2, Please send better 
specimen; it is evidently a Convolvulus; 3, hpiine- 

dium pinnatiim.- Wilts.—T, Please send flowers; *2. 

llcuchcra litepidn (syn. II. Itiohardsoni). Mrs. Her¬ 
man de Zoltc.- Tulipu macrospila.- C. H. C-—1, 

Lvcaete leucantba; 2, Lycaste aromntiea; 3, Den- 

drobiuin nobile. - E. Carver. — 1, Dnrge J iaf * 

Tlialictruin aquilegifolium; 2, Small leaf, I. adian- 

tifolium.- West park.— One of the forms of Iris 

sihiriea. II. Dutton.- Please send complete stem. 

with flower and tuber.- C. S. T.—l, Amelnnehier 

canadensis; 2 , The White Beam (Ryrus Aria).- Ruby. 

_ A very poor form of Parrot Tulip. E. C. Gray.— 
A poor ilouer of the double white Narcissus pocticus: 

__ R er _ ii. Justice.—I, Double Meadow Saxifrage 

(flax if ruga granulata fl.-pL); 2, Genista anxaitlioa: 3, 
Henel.era Kichardsoni (syn. II. hispida); 4. Niercni- 
hergia gracilis.- C. K. -Looks like a bloom of the 
red Gloire de Dijon, Heine Marie Henrietta. 

-The ConiTnonTamariskCTanmrix guinea).- —i.r.n. 
Thomusxct. 1, The purple Helleborine (Cephahinthera 
mbru), a very rare plant in this country.— -■•/■ ft- 
— Erinus alpinus. 


Catalogue received..— Dobbie and 
Peas: Hints on Growing, etc. 


Co.—Street 


ex to Volume XXVIII. The binding covers 
Is (Id. each. post. free. Is. 9d.) and Index (3d., 
roe. :Qd.) for Volume XXVIII. are now ready, 
lay be had of all newsagent^,,-or,of the Pub- 
post free, 2s. for- the tub. 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


No. 1,476 —Vol. XXIX 


Founded by W. Robinson, Author of “ The English Flower Garden ,' 


JUNE 22, 1907. 


INDEX. 


Aralia Sieboldi leaves 

dropping.212 

Auricula* and Prim¬ 
rose, prouogat ing .. 218 
Azalea mollis, increas¬ 
ing.210 

Beans. Runner, for¬ 
warding.208 

Cabbage bolting .. 207 
Calceolarias, how to 
grow .212 

Cherry, the Japanese .. 200 
OiryRantheiminis .. 215 
ChrysamheniuuiH,early- 
liowering .. 215 

Cockchafer, t he com¬ 
mon .210 

Conservatory .. .. 217 


Convolvulus, destroying 

wild .218 

Cucumbers, eel-worui in 203 
Epidendrmn cochlea- 

turn .210 

Flower, hardy, notes .. 213 

Fruit .210 

Fruit, garden ..217 

Garden diary, ext raids 

from a .217 

Gnrden pests and 

friends.210 

Garden work 217 

Gloxinias.212 

(JrapeB in bad condition 210 
Grapes, rust on . 210 

Gypsophila, increasing 
the double .. 211 


Hair worms .. 210 

Herbs and their culture 207 
Indoor plants ..212 

Lettuces, All the Year 
Round and Favourite 208 
1.ilium giganteuni .. 218 
Lily, Wood (T. grundi- 
florum), large-flowered 213 
Lupins failing 218 

Marguerite, spiders on 210 
Melons in frames .. 217 I 
Melons without bottom- 

heat .216 

North-house 277 

Onion-maggot, checking 

the .218 

OrchidB.210 

Outdoor garden .. 217 


I Outdoor plants.. 213 

Pansies failing .. .. 215 

1 Pearhesand Nectarines, 

thinning.216 

Peaches, thinning .. 218 
Pear gnat midge, the .. 21U 
Pear-midge, the.. .. 210 

I Pentstemon procerus .. 214 

Plants and flowers .. 211 
Plants fdr spring bed¬ 
ding .213 

Potato Snowdrop .. 208 

Potatoes ..208 

Rhododendrons at the 
Temple Show .. .. 203 

Rhubarb, colour in .. 207 
Rose Climbing White 
Maman Cocliut .. 212 


Rose Dr J Campbell 

Hall . 

Rose F^lioit^-Perpdtue 
Rose Goldtinch 
Rose Philadelphia Ram¬ 
bler . 

Roses . 

Roses. Moss, pruning .. 
Roses seasonable work 
Royal Horticultural 
Society Holland 
House Show .. 
Shrill's, pruning and 

clipping. 

Slugs, destroying 
Sternbergia (Lily of tho 

Field). 

Stocks, Brompton 


I Stove .2l? 

212 Strawberries for forcing 217 

212 | Tobacco (Arnica uion- 

211 tana), the Mountain 21." 

Trees and shrulm .. 203 

212 Tul»s in the court- 

211 yard .217 

218 i Tulips diseased .. .. 210 

211 i United Horticultural 
j Benefit and Provident 

Society.218 

218 J Vegetable garden .. 217 
I Vegetables 2U7 

210 I Vines, young, in pots .. 217 
210 | Water, to soften hard . . 218 
I Week s work, the 

214 coming.217 

215 I Willows diseased .. 210 


VEGETABLES. 

BOLTING CABBAGES. 

It would appear that, wry few seasons pass 
without the Imne of bolting being more or 
less present. It is a curious fact that, though 
new stocks and strains are evolved by the 
careful «]>eeialist, and are tested and re¬ 
selected from time to time, yet this spring 
trouble remains, and in a season like the 
present causes serious losses. It is quite true, 
as “A. D.” says (page 159), that any of the 
Brassiea family are spoiled by alien pollen 
agencies from insects, or even passing wind, 
so that strict isolation and protection from 
these outside influences must be secured in 
order to guard against possible taint and de¬ 
preciation. Remembering these facts, no 
reader of Gardening Illustrated would he 
wise in attempting to save seed from his own 
stock of plants, however good these may be, 
unless security against these outside agencies 
can be made. There must be other circum¬ 
stances which invite the tendency to bolting, 
outside that of selecting stocks, for when 
seeds are purchased from a reliable firm, and 
the plants given the best cultivation, there 
must l»e something which is not easily ex¬ 
plained away when, under these conditions, a 
third of one’s plants runs to seed prema¬ 
turely in spring. My Cabbage seeds were 
sown about the 10th of August—a date ad¬ 
mitted bv everyone to be a safe one—planted 
in due time on Onion quarters, which are, 
again, the ideaL position for this crop, and 
their advance through autumn and winter 
was such a<s to make the maturity of plants 
a positive artsurance, yet the proportion of 
bolters was altogether beyond the rea«on- 
able percentage which every grower who pro¬ 
cures his seeds from the most reliable houses 
expects. 

It hart been suggested that by selecting the 
strongest plants for setting out the early lied 
one may choose actual rogues, resulting from 
impurity of fitock, hut it might be asked who 
would throw away the strongest and reserve 
the weakest plants for putting out? I ques¬ 
tion whether any render of Gardening 
Illustrated who has to purchase seed adopts 
such a course. It may be remarked that 
plantations made from the same seed-bod in 
spring display none of this bolting tendency, 
hence what can explain such untoward re¬ 
sults? I have carefully read “A. D.’s” notes 
referred to above, and can only come to one 
conclusion - that this bolting still remains a 
mystery. My choice of variety falls on 
Ellam’s, Flower of Spring, Sutton’s April, 
and Offenhain, sorts which 1 find can usually 
be depended on. YY T . S. 


Colour in Rhubarb. For many years 
have been convinced that the large grow in 
kinds are coarse and flavourless, whatev€ 
their colour may be, compared with 
small growing kinds. I/fiml oqoks 
fer the [higlily-onloiirAl khu^t 



market point of view, colour and earliuess 
are of much importance. Raising new stock 
from seed is of the utmost importance where 
roots have to be lifted for forcing each year, 
and this is much the best way of obtaining 
early crops, when labour, etc., have to be 
considered. I am convinced replanting these 
forced roots seldom pays, and division entails 
much waste of time. I know many adopt 
this method, and I have tried it. many times. 
For many years I have resorted to raising 
from seed. Some may say seed does not 
come true. Some two years ago I sowed a 
packet of Rovnl Albert, from a leading seed 
house, and out of fifty plants I have not a 
rogue. Royal Albert is hard to beat for 
general use, and is fine in colour. Paragon 
and Johnston’s St. Martin are other good 
kinds.— Dorset. 


HERBS AND THEIR CULTURE. 

For the successful cultivation of herbs a 
light sandy soil is necessary, as it is acknow¬ 
ledged by all good authorities that the drier 
the soil (if it retains sufficient moisture to 
promote satisfactory growth) the more highly 
concentrated are the properties of the herbs 
consideration in high class cookery. A 
border facing the west and sheltered by a 
wall or fence is the.best, as there are many 
sorts of herbs that cannot endure sudden 
changes of temperature during a hard win¬ 
ter, and which must l>e the case when the sun 
is able to reach them early in the morning. 
Actual frost may not, perhaps, injure them, 
but. in the case of a cold, heavy soil, frost 
and sudden thaw combined do much harm. 
A rich soiL for herbs is not desirable, rank 
growth not lieing necessary. On the con¬ 
trary, short-jointed shoots thickly beset with 
leaves are what are required, and the best 
way to promote such growth is to make the 
soil firm before planting, and to give each 
plant plenty of room in which to grow in 
order that sun and air may have direct in¬ 
fluence on all parts of the plants. 

Anise. —This is an annual and rather ten¬ 
der, as it does not like to be transplanted. 
Seed of it should lie sown early in May where 
it is to stand. This herb is used both for 
garnishing and flavouring. 

Balm.—T his is herbaceous in character and 
quite hardy. As it is not often called for, 
one or two plants will suffice for a large 
garden. 

Basil. —Most gardeners find it necessary to 
provide a regular supply of Sw’cet Basil, as it 
is used for flavouring soups, and also in 
salads. It is a tender plant, and, therefore, 
if an early supply of green leaves is required, 
seeds of it should be sown in heat in Febru¬ 
ary, and the young plants treated as other 
tender plants would be. Where there is no 
objection to use it in a dried state, one sow¬ 
ing will suffice, as a sufficient number of 
plants can lie raised to last throughout the 
year. If, as soon as the plants come into 
flower, they are pulled up by the roots, tied 
in small bundles, and hung up in a dry loft, 


the leaves will relain their flavour for a con¬ 
siderable time. In this case seed of it may 
be sown about the middle of April. Sow 
about one dozen seeds in a 7-inch pot in any 
ordinary sandy soil, and grow the plants on in 
a cool house until large enough for drying. 

Borage. —This is chiefly used for flavouring 
summer drinks, and, therefore, should not be 
excluded from the herb border. Bees are also 
fond of it, and, although rather coarse in 
appearance, it is not devoid of beauty, both 
the form and colour of the flowers being good. 
If an early supply is wanted, the first sowing 
should be made under glass early in March. 
For use during August and September, seed 
may be sown in the open early in April ; a 
very few plants will suffice for ordinary use 
— i.e., if allowed plenty of room in which to 
grow. 

Chervil. —This is a plant not unlike 
Parsley in its appearance. It is an important 
herb in many gardens, and in order to keep 
up a succession, two sowings are necessary. 
The first should be made in April and another 
early in August. If sown thinly, a space 3 feet 
square will yield a good supply. If required 
during winter, some hand lights should be 
placed over it to protect it-from frost. 

Chiver. These are valuable either as a 
substitute fop-*nions or for flavouring salads. 
They are quite hardy, and will grow in almost 
any kind of soil. The best time to plant them 
is March and April, and the best position is 
close to a warm wall. The green tops are 
the only parts used. 

Fennel. —There is generally a constant de¬ 
mand for Fennel from early spring until late 
in the summer, but, being nardv, there is no 
difficulty in keeping up the supply. Plants 
it are easily raised from seed sown in spring. 
As it is required early, a warm position near 
a wall should lie provided for a plant or two 
to furnish a few early gatherings. 

Marjoram. —There are annual and 
perennial varieties of Marjoram, but most- 
gardeners find the winter or perennial sort 
sufficient for all purposes. Both may be 
raised from seed sown in spring, but the usual 
way of keeping up winter Marjoram is to 
slip off some side pieces to which are attached 
a few roots in spring and form fresh planta¬ 
tions with them. Such plants require one 
season’s growth before they are of much use. 

Spearmint is needed both in a green and 
dried state. For the earliest supplies it is 
necessary to take up some old roots and put. 
them into deep pans in w T hich they can be 
forced, and the slower the forcing the stouter 
the growth will be. When making fresh 
plantations select the youngest roots, and 
these will be found near*the outside of the 
old stools. Cut them into lengths of about 
9 inches ; then form drills 1 inch deep and 
1 foot apart; in these lay the pieces of roots 
and cover them with fine soil. A fresh plan¬ 
tation made once in two years will be often 
enough for most gardens. 

Sage. Though apparently hardy. Sago 
suffers a good deal in hard winters ; in fact, 
as a rule eevere winters kill all the old 















208 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


June 22, 190? 


stools where the soil is of a retentive char¬ 
acter; therefore, it is not safe to depend on 
old plantations. It is well to make a fresh 
bed every year, selecting the driest soil and 
the most sheltered corner for it. Early in 
summer slip off some of the young side pieces 
and dibble them in as one would other cut¬ 
tings, allowing them to remain there until 
the following April. They are then lifted and 
planted 18 inches apart each way. Sage may 
also be raised from seed, and, if sown early 
in April on a warm, sunny border, the young 
plants acquire a good size before winter. 

Thyme. —This and the Lemon-scented are 
all the sorts that it is necessary to grow in 
ordinary gardens. The first is required al¬ 
most daily. It is, therefore, necessary to 
keep up a good stock of it. To keep up the 
supply, strike cuttings early every spring, 
and plant them out as soon as rooted. These 
plants are never cropped until they have had 
one summer’s growth ; they are then in condi¬ 
tion to furnish a constant supply, and large 
enough to stand unharmed through the 
severest winter. The Lemon Thyme also 
strikes freely from cuttings, and it may also 
be increased by division. A well drained 
soil is necessary for both of these Thymes. 

Tarragon. —This docs not take kindly to 
all kinds of soil, especially where inclined to 
clay. A moderately deep sandy staple is 
what suits it best. In some places this herb 
is much used in salads. In that case it must 
lie in a green state, and it will be necessary 
to take up every autumn a sufficient quantity 
of roots to be forced during the winter. They 
may be put into pans or pots, as may be 
most convenient. A few plants introduced 
into the forcing-house every six weeks will 
keep up a supply. It is necessary to make a 
new plantation once in two years, and April 
is the best time to do it. If dried Tarragon 
is wanted it should be cut just as it begins to 
show its flowers ; in fact, that is the condition 
in which all herbs should be when cut for 
drying. 

Parsley.—O f all herbs this is the most im 
portant, and, taken altogether, it is, perhaps, 
the most indifferently managed. It is a com¬ 
mon practice to sow seeds of it in any odd 
corner without any thought as to soil or 
position, and then wonder why a regular sup¬ 
ply is not forthcoming. Having to meet a 
large demand for Parsley, I always make two 
sowings each year—one towards the end of 
March and I he other early in August. The 
first sowing runs to seed early the following 
summer, but the majority of the planls raised 
in August will stand two winters before they 
run to s ved. The late sown crop, therefore, 
ufTords a supply through the early summer, 
while the newly sown spring plants are grow¬ 
ing on to a useful siz.\ Fine Parsley cannot 
be had if the plants are crowded. If the seed 
is sown in lines, the drills should be 15 inches 
apart, and the plants thinned out so that 
they stand C inches asunder in the linos. 


POTATOES. 

Where fully up, Potato tops that passed 
through the Whitsun spell of cold and frost 
unscathed were, indeed, fortunate. In damp, 
low-lying districts, where the winds did not 
keep the air moving, leafage suffered a good 
deal. In elevated, dry localities the harm 
done was trifling. Still, such cold checks 
have harmful effects on growth for a time, 
for Potato leafage is very tender. Generally 
we find year after year that it is not wise to 
plant too early, for we arc never safe from 
frost until May is out. Still further, nothing 
seems more common than our having a spell 
of cold about May 20th, for some reason that 
cannot well be defined, and against which 
nothing in the way of prevention can be done. 
"When Strawberry bloom suffers badly there 
is little chance for Potato-tops to escape. 
Strawberry bloom we cannot delay. The 
most we can do is to cover the plants up with 
dry litter or Fern. So much we can do with 
Potatoes, but in both cases only on restricted 
breadths. But we can, at least, plant Pota¬ 
toes rather later than usual, and thus keep 
growth out of danger until the month of May 
is over. Tops once frosted never recover full 
vigour, and the tuber crop is materially re¬ 
duced. With respect/toXhe very interesting 
and also important V oljtijJhfihjJ the 


maximum of robust growth from planted 
tubers, I observe in the results referred to in 
the Agricultural Department leaflet on Pota¬ 
toes, at page 160, proof is given of the in¬ 
creased produco derived from pi anting un¬ 
ripe tubers over ripe ones. That is well, and 
should help to encourage others to test the 
effects of these two forms of seed tubers for 
themselves. That they can do, by lifting a 
few roots of any one or more varieties at the 
end of August, storing the tubers in boxes, 
then planting the following year a selection 
of the same number of tubers from both 
the August and October liftings. The leaflet 
favours June planting rather than spring 
planting to obtain immature seed tubers. 
Generally it is wiser and safer to plant in 
spring and lift early, as these tubers can 
easily be stored in boxes or on shelves. 

A. D. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Eel-worm in Cucumbers.—1 enclose three 
Cucumber-plants for examination, as 1 have lost a 
26-yard house of plants that have gone like the en¬ 
closed. I wish to ask if you could give me an answer 
through your valuable paper as to the cause and its 
prevention?—W. B. 

[The roots of the Cucumber plants sub 
mitted to us are badly infested with Nema¬ 
todes, or eel-warms, which cause the plants, 
when attacked, to first flag, and finally to 
die in the way you describe. For this there 
is, unfortunately, no known cure. We have 
tried various remedies, but without avail, 
and the only thing we ever found to keep, 
these insects at. bay for any length of time 
is to bake the compost—both that used for 
forming the mounds with at the time of 
planting and for top-dressing afterwards. By 
taking these precautions, and also thoroughly 
limewashing every portion of the brickwork 
in the houses and pits each year, the attack 
can be staved off until the autumn, when the 
plants even then often succumb. Our 
method is to be prepared for such losses by 
having relays of young plants coming on in 
other houses, sowing the seed when the 
previously raised lot has come into full beaj* 
ing. By thus having, as it were, several 
strings to our bow, we have no break in the 
supply if any of the older plants succumb to 
an attack. You may, however, not be so 
conveniently situated as regards glass erec¬ 
tions, and mayhap have but one structure in 
which to grow your Cucumbers. Assuming 
ouch to be the case, we advise you to elenr 
out the plants, the soil, and the heating 
material and burn it, to prevent the infection 
spreading further. Then clean the house 
thoroughly with carholised soft soap, and 
afterwards limewash all brickwork with 
freshly slaked lime, adding half a pint of 
paraffin to the wash while hot. Well work 
the wash into the brickwork, filling up all 
interstices, and if this cannot be accom¬ 
plished in one application, repeat it when 
the first coat has become dry. In the mean¬ 
time, hake the compost over a fire, and the 
way we do this is to make a fire with refuse, 
wood, etc., and when a good body of fire has 
been obtained, to place an old corrugated 
iron sheet over it, on which the soil is placed, 
allowing it to # remain until well heated 
through, and making sure that all insect life, 
germs, etc., have been destroyed. Sufficient 
can by charred at one burning to serve both 
for planting and for subsequent top-dressings, 
only it should be stored quite apart from 
other compost heaps until required for use. 
By adopting these drastic measures, and by 
starting afresh with new plants and sterilised 
soil, you may, perhaps, he able to carry on 
Cucumlaer culture without further loss ; but 
do not be surprised if the insects again put in 
an appearance later in the season.] 

Forwarding: Runner Beans. -Those who 
can afford space to raise a few Beans under 
glass, whether they be French or Scarlet 
Runner, may gain some days in securing their 
first pickings. It is surprising what advance 
may be made by the aid of glass over ordi 
nary outdoor sowings. A few pots sown with 
Beans will, in the ordinary course, bring a 
return equal to that of almost any other occu¬ 
pant that may be named. Very little trouble 
is involved in the sowing of the necessary 
number—it may be only two dozen pots—for 
only a few days suffice to secure a growing 


plant. Much heat is not required, because 
this renders the“ leafage tender. With an 
average amount' of sunshine there is a gain of 
many degrees of warmth in an unheated 
frame, even without a manure-bed be¬ 
neath. Especially in cold districts, and 
where frosts are feared late in spring, is the 
forwarding of Runner Beans a gain. With 
new and good seeds Beans planted singly in 
4-inch pots will in due time give fine plants 
that will soon mount the stakes, and which, 
of course, should be put in at the time of 
planting. There is no gain in crowding 
Beans at any time. Especially is this so in 
the case of the earliest. Crowded rows give 
a corresponding shade, which hinders, rather 
than aids, the desired end. An early border, 
it need scarcely be said, will afford the better 
position for these advanced crops, though it 
is by no means imperative ; still, when the 
gain of days depends on position and space, 
it is just as well to provide a suitable place. 
-W. S. 

Potato Snowdrop.—I quite agree with all 
that your correspondent has to say regarding 
the merits of this Potato, as I grow a large 
area of it every season. It is not only a heavy 
cropper, but the quality is so good that I am 
unable to meet with its equal as a second 
early, taking everything into consideration. 
The last two years the variety was singularly 
free from disease—quite a contrast to the 
previous year, when it suffered rather 
severely in this respect. I give it a change 
of soil each season, one year the medium 
being of a light nature and the next heavy, and 
although home-saved seed is always planted, 
there is not the slightest deterioration of 
stock. This year the plot where the Snow¬ 
drop is planted is of a heavy loamy texture. 
This was well worked during the winter 
months, and at planting time was found in 
capitnl working condition. At present the 
growth is healthy and robust, and in a few 
days’ time moulding will have been done, the 
tops not having suffered from frost, as others 
diiAsome three weeks since. Snowdrop is re¬ 
garded with such high favour here that no 
other variety is countenanced so long as this 
is to lie had. I may add, in conclusion, 
that although the tops of the first earlies were 
badly cut by frost, they quickly recovered, 
and the breadths are now looking remark¬ 
ably well. Other second early sorts are also 
growing freely, and some of the hands are 
now busy stirring and working the soil be¬ 
tween the rows preparatory to moulding. 
Main crop varieties are growing apace, and 
look clean and healthy.—A. W. 

All the Year Round and Favourite Let¬ 
tuces. There is a difference of opinion as 
to Lettuces, some choosing Cos in preference 
to the Cabbage, while again the varieties 
with green, golden, or bronze leaves have 
their advocates more or less divided. Of late; 
years two golden-leaved sorts—All the Year 
Round and Favourite—have come into much 
prominence, because they are attractive to 
the eye, pleasant to the palate, and do not 
run to seed prematurely. This last quality 
certainly has a great value, for nothing is 
more disappointing than to find when one’s 
crop has almost or quite advanced to 
maturity, that the plants nil simultaneously 
bolt. Favourite has crimpled leaves, which 
add much to the attractiveness of the plant, 
and also the prepared salad, its companion, 
which is of similarly pale golden tint, has 
its leaves quite plain, but in quality ami 
constitution there is not much to choose, 
either from a salad or garden point of view. 
Both may b? gently forced in spring, or sown 
in autumn outside to stand the winter. For 
the earliest frame crop, however, one must 
not depend on these good summer Lettuces, 
but choose a forcing kind which will matuie 
quickly. I have noticed there is some varia¬ 
tion in the depth of colour in different stocks 
of both Lettuces, and, presumably, soil in¬ 
fluences are accountable for this difference. 
—Wilts. 


“The English Flower Garden and Home 
Grounds .”—New Edition, 10th, revised, with descrip, 
tions of all the best plants, trees, and shrubs, their 
culture and arrangement, illustrated on wood. Cloth, 
medium, 8oo., 15s .; post free, 15s. Gd. 

“The English Flower Garden” may also l* 
had Jim ly bmtnd in ? volx ., half morocco, %s. neU. Of 
all booksellers. 



pink single-flowered varieties as well ns many double- 
flowered forms are common in Japan. Of these, 
several have been Introduced into this country and 
Europe, and are now well known in our gardens, 
where, however, they do not flower 60 freely as they 
i are represented to do in their native land.” 

With regard to the general use of the word 
Primus, it may be pointed out that the 
| Almonds, Cherries, Peaches, and Plums are 
now all included in that genus, whereas at 
I one time it consisted of the Plums only. 

X. 


June 22 , 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


RHODODENDRONS AT THE TEMPLE 
SHOW. 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 

THE JAPANESE CHERRY. 
Though several members of the Cherry 
family are natives of Japan, what must be 
regarded as the Japanese Cherry is, un¬ 
doubtedly, Prunus (Cerasus) Pseudo-Cerasus, 
which plays an important part in the social 
life of the inhabitants of that country. Both 
in its native country and in the British Isles 
this is represented by several forms, some of 


suffused with greenish-yellow, and the variety 
James II. Veitch, now well known. An¬ 
other species which occurs in Japan, 
though in many books of reference China 
is given as its native country, is Prunus 
serrulata, whose habit of growth is totally 
different from that of any other mem 
her of the Cherry family. It forms a 
low tree, which almost invariably has the 
main stem erect for a few feet, but it then 
abruptly branches off nearly horizontally into 
three or four divisions, and henceforth ceases 


of Yezo, Prunus Pseudo-Cerasus occasionally rises to 
the height of 80 feet, and forms a trunk 3 feet in 
diameter. In the character of the hark, in habit and 
general appearance, it much resembles the European 
Cherry, the wild type of the familiar Cherry-tree of 
our gardens and orchards, and, as it appenrs in the 
forest, It might well be mistaken for that species. 
The Japanese Cherry is common in Yezo, and in all 
the mountain regions of Hondo up to 5,000 feet or 
6,000 feet above the sea level, and often forms a 
considerable portion of the forest growth, although, 
in Hondo, all large trees appear to have been cut. 
In the early autumn it is conspicuous in the land¬ 
scape, and very beautiful, as the leaves turn deep 
scarlet, and light up the forest before the Maples 
assume their brightest colour. For centuries the 
Japanese have planted these Cherry-trees in all 
gardens and temple grounds, and often by the borders 
of highways, as at Mukojima, near Tokyo, where 
there is an avenue of them more than a mile in 
length along the banks of the Sumi-da-gawa, and at 
Koganei, where, a century and a half ago, 10,000 
Cherries were planted in an avenue several miles 
long. 

“ The flowering of the Cherry-tree is an excuse for 
a holiday. The flowers of the wild tree are single, 
white, and of the size of those of the garden Cherry, 
but many varieties have been produced during the 


Prunus Pseudo-Cerasus luteo flore-pleno. From a photograph in Messrs. Paul’s nursery at Cheshunt. 


which have been long known as among the 
most beautiful of flowering Cherries, while 
others are of more recent introduction. The 
flowers of most of them are double, or semi- 
double, and in colour some shade of rosy- 
white. In the finest forms they will be as 
much as a couple of inches in diameter. 
Under the names of Cerasus Sieboldi and 
Cerasus Watereri two very fine varieties of 
this Cherry are now well known in Britain. 

Of the newer forms may be especially men¬ 
tioned that herewith figured (Prunus Pseudo- 
Cerasus luteo flore-pleno}, whose flowers are 


pleno), whose flovers ; 

Go gle 


to send up a leading shoot. The flowers are 
semi-double, and often tinged with pink, 
while they are later in expanding than those 
of Prunus Pseudo-Cerasus. A very pictur¬ 
esque tree is Prunus serrulata. Very interest¬ 
ing details concerning the flowering period of 
Prunus Pseudo-Cerasus are given by Pro¬ 
fessor Sargent in the “Forest Flora of 
Japan.” They are as follows: — 

“ A more interesting tree than Prunus Mumc (Apri¬ 
cot.) is the Japanese Cherry (Prunus Pseudo-Cerasus), 
the largest tree of the Rose family in the Empire, 
and, next to the Apricot, more cultivated for flowers 
by the Japanese than any other tree. In the forests 


Among hardy shrubs nt the Temple show the 
Rhododendrons, as usual, stood out as one 
of the brightest features there, and attracted 
a very large share of attention. 

The delightful Pink Pearl was, of course, 
well represented. Strange, we are never 
j told anything as to its origin, though, judg¬ 
ing by appearances, we naturally assume it 
is a hybrid of R. Aucklandi. Good examples 
of an allied form, Mrs. E. C. Stirling, were 
also shown, but it is far from being the equal 
J of Pink Pearl. 

The following were the most notable of the 
different varieties of garden origin, fine 
bushes of most of them being Bhowu in the 
large tent:—Baron Schroder, rich plum, yel¬ 
low centre, very distinct; Baroness Schroder, 
white, with dark spots ; Betsy de Bouin, deep 
crimson petals, much crisped; Bertram W. 
Currie, bright crimson, light centre; Con- 
cessum, white, edged rose ; Doncaster, deep 
scar let-crimson, black blotch ; Frederick 
Waterer, fiery crimson ; Francis B. Hayes, 
white, with almost black spots ; H. W. Sar- 
I gent, crimson; John Walter, rich crimson, 
particularly fine ; Kate Waterer, rosy-crim¬ 
son, yellow centre ; Lady Eleanor Cathcart, 
clear deep rose ; Mrs. W. Agnew, pale rose, 
edged red, yellow centre ; Marquis of Water¬ 
ford, very bright pink, light centre; Pro¬ 
metheus, rich deep crimson, one of the best; 
Sappho, white, with a crowd of blackish 
spots; Strategist, delicate pink; W. E. 
Gladstone, deep rose. 

A group of hybrids raised between Rhodo¬ 
dendron Fortunei and 6ome of the garden 
varieties formed an attractive feature. A 
few of these hybrids nave already been 
awarded certificates by the Royal Horticul¬ 
tural Society, all of them having been raised 
by Messrs. Paul and Sons, of the Old Nur¬ 
series, Cheshunt. Most notable among them 
were Helen Paul, Duke of York, Duchess of 
York, Mrs. Fred Pawle, Boadicea, and H. M. 
Arderne. Most of these are of some shade of 
rose, and all have sweet-scented blossoms. 

Several of the Himalayan species were also 
shown (principally as cut blooms) in the 
group exhibited by Mr. G. Reuthe, Keston, 
Kent. Prominent among them were R. Auek- 
laudi, or Griffithianum, as it is often called; 
R. campyloearpum, remarkable from the yel¬ 
low colour of its blossoms; R. cinnabarinum. 
with drooping bell-shaped flowers, coloured 
red and yellow, like those of a Blandfordia ; 
R. Keysf, something like the last, but the 
flowers arc much smaller, tubular in shape, 
and of a scarlet colour; R. Thomeoni, re¬ 
markable for its deep blood-red colour; R. 
glaucum, with little drooping thimble-shapea 









210 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


June 22 , 190 ? 


flowers of ft pinkish colour ; R. Roy lei, be¬ 
longing to the same section as R. oiimalmri- 
inum, but with stouter flowers of a rich crim¬ 
son tint; R. triflorum, more interesting than 
ornamental, with flowers thin in texture, 
borne in threes, and of a greenish-yellow tint; 
R. Maddeni, noteworthy from the fact that 
it will often produce its long white trumpet¬ 
shaped flowers as late as midsummer. There 
was also a particularly fine form of R. ar- 
boreum rubrum, the deep red flowers being 
unusually bright. 

In addition to the above the different 
Azaleas, now by botanists classed with the 
Rhododendrons, made quite a blaze of colour. 

X. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Pruning and clipping shrubs — Would you 
kindly tell me what is the best time for pruning and 
clipping shrubs—Hollies, Laurels, Yews? My garden 
has, previously to my coming to it, been allowed to 
run wild; I have already cut back fairly hard many 
of the trees to let light in, but 1 want to shape 
them, especially Yews and Hollies, and should like 
to know best time to commence?—R usticus. 

[If the evergreens in question have been 
allowed to run wild for go long that hard 
pruning is necessary, the best time of the 
year to carry it out is towards the latter part 
of March and in April, as the new growth 
soon takes off some, at least, of the bare ap¬ 
pearance. Where clipping only is needed, it 
is, in the case of the Yew, best done in June 
or July, whereas the Holly, which grows 
later, may be cut in August. If carried 6ut 
at these timefl, the plants will make sufficient 
growth afterwards to hide the cut portions. 
Laurels should be cut with a knife, as the 
leaves are liable to be mutilated if shears are 
used. Unless very formul figures are re¬ 
quired, the Holly is also best when treated in 
the same way, and for the same reason. 
When sending queries, please read our rules 
as to writing on one side of the paper only. 
Writing on both sides causes a deal of trouble, 
more especially when, as in the present case, 
the query has to be printed.] 

Increasing Azalea mollis.- With the ex¬ 
ception of raising seedlings, the propagation 
of Azalea mollis is, for an amateur, a difficult 
matter, as cuttings do not strike at all 
readily, and grafting, which is employed for 
the increase of the better kinds, requires con¬ 
siderable skill and various appliances. The 
greatest measure of success in striking cut¬ 
tings is attained by taking the half-ripened 
Bhoots (those of medium vigour being prefer¬ 
able), cutting them off at a length of about 
3 inches, leaving an eye at the base, or, if 
the entire shoot is only about that length, 
remove it from its socket with a downward 
pull, after the old-fashioned manner of tak 
ing slips. Then insert securely into well- 
drained pots of very sandy peat made quite 
firm, give a good watering, cover with a bell- 
glass, and place in a shady part of the green¬ 
house. Under favourable conditions, a fair 
proportion may be expected to root in about 
three months. When rooted they should be 
potted off and stood in a cold-frame, for it 
is belter to grow them during their earlier 
stages in pots than planted out. Seed is 
readily obtainable ; the pods which succeed 
the flowers of this year will ripen towards 
the end of the summer or in early autumn. 
When this stage is reached, which will be 
seen by some pods commencing to open, they 
may be picked and laid out on a sheet of 
paper in the sunshine, under which treatment 
the ripe seeds will soon be discharged. The 
pods must not be laid out-of-doors, otherwise 
the least wind will blow away the minute 
seeds. To sow the seeds, take a clean pan, 
or pans, place a layer of broken crocks in 
the bottom, then fill to within half an inch of 
the rim with fine sandy peat, made mode¬ 
rately firm and quite level. Then water with 
a fine rose, and while the surface is still wet 
sprinkle the seed thereon, and over it dust a 
little fine silver-sand. Place in a close, shady 
frame, or, failing this, a pane of glass over 
the pan. taking care that the sun does not 
shine thereon. As the seeds germinate this 
must be removed. When the young plants 
have made four or five leaves they may be 
pricked off into the same kind of soil and 
afterwards planted out of-doors or potted 
singly. 

Google 


GARDEN PE8T8 AND FRIENDS. 


Aucuba diseased (T. T .).—Would you kindly 
send up another specimen of your diseased Aucuba, 
as the fifnall piece we received is not sufficient to 
enable one to say anything definite about the mis¬ 
chief V-G. S. 8. 

Hair-worms —Lust week, after a heavy rain, 1 
found on my Asparagus-beds half-a-dozen specimens 
of a living “something” like 3 inches or 4 inches 
of gray cotton attached to the heads of Asparagus 
and waving about, not by the wind, but by their 
own inherent strength, which must have been 
enormous for such an exceedingly slender creature. 
Will you kindly inform me, through your valuable 
journal, its name, and if it is injurious, and the 
means of eradicating it, if necessary? I met with 
one eight or ten years ago in the South of England.— 
Doubles. 

[From your description it is evident that 
the worms you found on your Asparagus were 
one of the hair-worms belonging to the genus 
Mermis. These worms may often be found 
on plants after rain, and sometimes in great 
numbers, making some persons think that 
there has been a shower of worms. There is 
no doubt that they come out of the soil, where 
they pass the greater part of their mature 
existence. The life history of these worms is 
not thoroughly made out, but it is certain 
that they pass a portion of their early life 
as internal parasites of insects. They are 
perfectly harmless to plants.—G. S. S.] 

The Pear gnat midge - 1 should be much 
obliged for any information concerning the insect 
infesting the Pears sent herewith. A very large 
number of my Tears arc attacked, and I should be 
glad to know the best way of dealing with the peat? 
- (I)R.) F. 8. ARNOLD. 

[Your lVars arc attacked bv the grubs of 
the ‘‘Pear gnat midge” (I)ipiosis pyrivora). 
The fly is quite small, not measuring more 
than J of an inch across the wings. It is 
much like a small gnat in general appear¬ 
ance, though it belongs to quite a different 
family. They lay their eggs in the opening 
blossoms. The grubs are said to hatch in 
the course of four days, and immediately 
make their way to the core of the future 
fruit and begin t-o feed. Naturally, the fruit 
so attacked never comes to perfection. When 
full grown, the grubs leave the Pears, fall¬ 
ing to the ground if the fruit is still hanging 
on the trees, or merely crawling out of them 
if they are on the ground. They then bury 
themselves an inch or so below the surface, 
and become chrysalides, from which the flies 
spring early the next spring. The trees 
should be well shaken, so as to cause as many 
of the affected Pears to fall as possible, or. 
on small trees, they may be gathered and 
burnt, or buried deeply in the ground. A 
heavy dressing of kainit (about half a ton 
per acre) applied under the trees in July or 
August has been found very efficient in de¬ 
stroying this pest. The removal of the sur¬ 
face soil to the depth of 2 inches would have 
the same effect., but the earth taken away 
must be buried deeply or burnt, so as to de¬ 
stroy the chrysalides.—G. S. S.] 

Willows diseased.-I shall esteem it u favour if 
you can kindly tell ine the name of the disease on 
enclosed samples of Willows and, more important, 
still, of any possible means of treating it—whether 
by spraying, which would be very difficult, as they 
are many and some high trees amongst them, or by 
cutting to the ground, which would be a desperate 
measure? At. present, only golden-lmrked Willows are 
attacked, but there are other varieties near. A 
similar disease killed a batch of plants last year, 
after a second attack during the season. Do you 
know how it could arise?— Windkhwkkk. 

[Your Willows arc attacked by a fungus 
(Physalospora salieis) which apjiears to be 
doing much injury to "Willows at. the present 
time. There is not much to Ik? done in the 
way of checking this disease, but cutting off 
the infested branches and shoots and burn¬ 
ing them. Spraying would, no doubt, be use¬ 
ful. and Bordeaux mixture would be the best 
fungicide to use, but when large trees are 
attacked in this way it is always very difficult 
to deal effectually with the pest.—G*. S. S.] 
Tulips diseased —I enclose some Tulip-leaves, 
and would be glad if you could tell me the cause of 
the blemish? It is the second year it has appeared, 
and formerly the bulbs did very well. This is their 
second year in the ground, und when they were 
planted, two years ago, the ground was wet, as at the 
time the season was very rainy. Also, horse-manure 
was put in. The soil is a fairly rich loam. What¬ 
ever the cause, 1 do not think it is the result of a 
bad spring, as other similar bulbs in another garden 
close by and equally exposed have not suffered in 
the same way.—K. 

[Your Tulips have been attacked by a fun¬ 
gus known as the Tulip mould (Sclerotinia 
parasitica), a very destructive pest, nearly 


allied to the fungus which attacks the com¬ 
mon white Lily (Lilium candidum) so fre¬ 
quently. There is no known cure for this 
disease. You had better at once pull up the 
infected bulbs and burn them, to prevent 
the Boil being contaminated with the fungus. 
-G. S. S.] 

Spiders on Marguerite.—A day or two since I 
discovered upon one of the blossoms of a white 
Marguerite in my window-box a thick, round cushion 
of the infinitely smull, greenish-brown spider (speci¬ 
mens of which I enclose). When touched they im¬ 
mediately spread themselves out into the semblance 
of a thickly-spotted gossamer veil. Will, you kindly 
tell me what their name is and species, and whether 
they are harmful to plants or enemies of insect 
pestH? When I shook them, web and all, into a bowl 
of soap-suds I did not know whether I was killing 
friends or foes.—SPENKY. 

[The spiders you sent are too young for me 
to be able to name them, but you may rest 
assured that they are in no way likely to 
injure your plants. All spiders are carni¬ 
vorous, as a rule feeding ou insects, so that 
they are very beneficial in gardens. Though 
spiders’ webs are supposed to be signs of 
untidiness and neglect, while the maker of 
them is alive they should never be destroyed 
either out-of-doors or indoors.— G. S. S.j 

The Fear-midge —Can you tell me what is the 
growth on enclosed Tears, and what causes it, and 
how to get rid of it? It is .spreading on all my Pear- 
trees.- p. B. 

[The largest of the Pears you submit is in¬ 
fested with the larvae of the IVar midge, and 
the others have, apparently, been injured by 
frost, and are dying off gradually, as they 
usually do under such circumstances. The 
only thing you can do in the first named case 
is to pick off all fruits similarly affected and 
burn them, and treat all which may fall to 
the ground in tfie same way. Insecticides 
are of no avail in this ease, hut you may 
lessen future attack by keeping the ground 
beneath the trees constantly stirred and giv¬ 
ing it a good surface dressing of kainit in 
early autumn and again in the spring. You 
may also dress the surface nt once with 
freshly slaked lime, using sufficient to quite 
cover the top of the soil, for in the latter 
the larvie, or maggots, after leaving the fruits 
bury themselves and form cocoons, passing 
through the autumn and winter in the form 
of chrysalids, and emerging in spring as 
gnats or midges, ready to carry on the 
attack.] 

The common cockchafer. -Will you kindly let 
me know what the specimen I »end is the grub «»f, 
and if it docs any harm? It and several others like 
it were found recently in a Chrysanthemum border. — 
Miss Hadwen. 

[The grub you found in your Chrysanthe¬ 
mum border was that of the common cock¬ 
chafer (Melolontha vulgaris). These grubs 
are most destructive creatures, as they feed 
on the roots of almost any plant, and appear 
to be very voracious. I know of no means 
of destroying them other than turning them 
up out of tiie ground and killing them. 

G. S. S.] 

Destroying slugs. It is now twenty four 
years ago since I read in Gardening a note 
from a correspondent ("J. A. M.") stating 
how, by the use of limewater, made from 
lime fresh from the kiln, he had cleared his 
ardi'ii from a veritable plague of slugs, 
'he apjiearance of this note has proved a 
god send to me, for, acting on the information 
there contained, 1 have been ever since free 
from the annoyance of these pests. 
“J. A. M.” applied the water in a clear 
state, like gardeners do to destroy the worms 
on lawns. But my practice has been a little 
different. After slaking the lime I mix it 
with water, making it into a paste. Then, 
filling a large bath with clear water, I put in 
some of the paste and give it a stir. It soon 
sink« to the bottom again, and the water be¬ 
comes clear. Then, lest the water and the 
lime have not had time to form a saturated 
solution, I manage, in dipping the solution 
out. with a ladle into the watering-pot, to . 
make the same a little cloudy with fine par¬ 
ticles of lime held in suspension. The lime- 
water destroys the slugs bv following them in 
their retreat in the soil. "1 should 6tate that 
my gardens have been surrounded by walls, 
and that the land has lain on a dead level, 
so the conditions have been peculiarly 
favourable to success. On sloping land, of 
course, more care must be taken that the 
solution does not flow away without reaching 
the slugs in their holes. —L. C. K. 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAI6N 


Digitize-! 



June 23 , 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


211 


PLANTS AND 


ROSES. 

ROSE GOLDFINCH. 

This is not yet in commerce, I believe, but 
when its raisers. Messrs. Paul and Son, of 
Cheshuut, send it out I should say it will be 
welcomed by all who cherish these lovely 
rambling and semi rambling Roses. From 
what I could see of the Rose ns exhibited last 
June before the Royal Horticultural Society, 
I thought it approached Electra very much in 
habit, but in colouring it possessed a beauti¬ 
ful rich lemon hue. If it is as free and good 
in other respects as Electra, the improve¬ 
ment in colour is an advance in the right 
direction, and may be the foundation or a 
good rich buttercup yellow, which is much 
needed. We have pink, white, and crimson 
Ramblers galore, but yellows are scarce. In¬ 
deed, we have no good yellow. Aglaia has 
golden buds, but they oj>en to nearly white, 
and the same may be said of Electra. 


SEASONABLE WORK. 

In spite of the chilling winds we have had 
lately, the plants look wonderfully well, and, 
provided we soon receive some warm 
weather, the blooms should be rather above 
I the average. Some of the Tea Roses, such as 
| Corallina and a few others, appear to be in a 
rather sorry condition, but I have noticed 
this every season. As soon as growtli com¬ 
mences in earnest they quickly recover by 
I the autumn, and produce plenty of bloom. 

! If any old piece of wood in the Tea Roses 
appears worn out, do not hesitate to remove 
j it., for there will be plenty of new shoots 
i break up from the base of the plants to pro¬ 
vide the autumn display. The forwardcst 
plants will need disbudding now, and this is 
work that should be given the most careful 
i attention. Many growers of Roses would dis¬ 
bud all sorts alike. Fancy disbudding such 
free garden Roses as Camoens, Gustave 
Regis, Gross an Teplitz, or Mme. Ravary ! 
It is the fine show sorts, such as Bessie 
Brown, Mildred Grant. Mrs. John Laing. 
etc., that must be disbudded. If the central 



Rose Goldfinch. 


Clure Jacquikr is one of the best 
finnkeen-yellow Ramblers we grow, and it 
should find a home in every garden where 
*'paes can be found for its vigorous grow th. 

Alister Stella Gray is one I should 
plant largely. It is the reverse of Claire 
Jacquier in vigour, but, being perpetual, it 
is valuable. I have seen it on a wall 115 feet 
to 14 feet high, quite covering such a space, 
hilt as a pillar Rose it is not always a sue 
c*ss. 1 like to see this type of Rose, also 
s'tich as Electra. growing as quite free bushes, 
ns in the Royal Gardens at Kew. I am glad 
to see an attempt made to infuse an autumnal 
flowering habit into these Ramblers and semi- 
Ramblers. In the variety Perpetual Thalia 
we have on excellent example of what may 
be done in this respect, and in the older 
Pisaardi, which surely could bn utilised still 
further as a pollen parent, we have a Rose 
almost constantly in bloom. The new variety, 
Snowstorm, is a charming addition with its 
continuous flowering propensity. The pro¬ 
fusion of blossom is well defined in its name, 
and I am sure all lovers of garden Roses will 
welcome still further additions in other 
colours which the mingling with the Musk 
Roses may produce. 


| bud appears deformed, remove this and one 
of the side buds, allowing the other hud to 
| remain. Tea Roses should not only have 
j their buds reduced, but sometimes the shoots 
1 that start out beneath the flower all the way 
up the stems should be pinched back to the 
stem. Thinning out superfluous shoots is a 
matter that cannot Ik* too carefully attended 
to. A plant can bring to perfection two and 
throe blossoms, where, perhaps, if a dozen 
were left, they would l> * of very poor quality. 
Those who exhibit know full well the value 
of such thinning and disbudding. Feeding 
the plants is also a matter calling for special 
care. Some two years ago, at the Paris Con- 
gress, the subject of manuring Roses was 
| dealt with, and one fact was made much of— 
that nitrogen was most important for the 
i Rose. In fact, some of the growers said they 
! found that Roses required three times more 
nitrates than they aid phosphates. A new 
j discovery was made, and that was that mag¬ 
nesia made a good substitute for potash. It 
| was also shown, as Mr/Foster Melliar used 
to advocate, that Roses preferred liquid food 
to solid food, as in the latter case the manure 
was much slower in nitrification. Feeding 
Roses with liquid manure is very simple, and 


if one has access to a good heap of cow- 
manure the drainings from this make a splen¬ 
did article, if diluted to about half its 
strength. I have given it quite neat, and 
never found any injurious effect, but I do 
not advise this. If not convenient to have a 
cart-load or two of cow-manure in the gar¬ 
den, then a bushel thrown into a tub with a 
peck bag of soot would make a good substi 
tute, but where Roses are extensively grown 
it pays to have a brick pit or cesspool made 
near the plants, especially for this liquid. 
Where the plants have had a good helping of 
farmyard-manure, they may Ini assisted very 
much now if some nitrate of soda and sul¬ 
phate of ammonia be given. Mix these two 
articles together in equal quantities, and 
give a tablespoonful of the mixture to each 
plant. It is, perhaps, rather late to apply 
this for the first flowering, as by the time 
these lines are in print the buds will be form¬ 
ing rapidly, but in late districts it could be 
given with advantage, and in early districts 
give it after the first crop of bloom. Win*re 
strong sorts are growing among dwarfer 
plants, it is a good plan to lie over the long 
shoots in a half hoop fashion. They will 
then blossom along the growtli. Mme. Abel 
Chatenav and similar vigorous kinds answer 
well like this. On gravelly and light soils a 
thin mulching of manure will bo helpful. 
This should be one-year-old manure, if pos¬ 
sible. Manure that has been turned over 
five or six times makes good stuff for this 
purpose, and if the liquor from the cesspool 
lias been thrown over it also, this mulch has 
much fertilising power. 

Rambler Roses on arches and pergolas, 
aiid also rapid growers upon walls, need a 
mulching, and also liberal doses of liquid- 
manure. These strong growers pay for such 
attention, and will respond with glorious 
trusses and trails of bloom. Wall Roses are 
especially in need of watering at the root, for 
in most cases when there is rain the roots of 
the Roses do not benefit much. Hoeing is 
an excellent aid to good culture in all de¬ 
partments of the garden, and do not wait for 
weeds to grow-. Look upon hoeing ns culti¬ 
vating rather than just u means to cleaning 
the land. It opens the soil to the influence 
of air and sun, which are as essential to the 
well-being of the plants as they arc to our 
own bodies. 

Grubs and aphis are again very trouble¬ 
some, and the former need constant watch¬ 
ing. A handy lad will get over a lot of 
plants in a day, and it pays to have this done. 
Aphis can bo checked by paraffin soap solu¬ 
tion. Where only a few plants are grown, 
dip the shoots in this soapy water and a few 
hours afterwards syringe with soft water. 
Mildew, if it appears, ran be cheeked by 
syringing with a solution of carbolic soap, 
rather strong, but it must be applied with a 
tine syringe. Suckers must be kept in check : 
those from beneath the ground being severed 
by the aid of a sharp spud, and those on 
the stems of standards cut off with n sharp 
knife. Many plants are ruined by allowing 
the wild shoots to grow. It. is often done in 
ignorance. The Manetti and I)e la Grifferaii 
stocks are the worst sinners. They throw up 
those ugly suckers that, if undetected, verv 
soon gain the ascendancy. The Manstti 
shoots are very pale grass green, with red¬ 
dish wood or stem, and the I)e la Griffcraie 
a dull sage-green, with rather woolly-like 
foliage, especially at the points. 

Briers for budding that is. those for 
making standards and half standards - should 
have the surplus shoots rubbed off. We 
usually leave three of the best near the top, 
and the others are discarded. If it is found 
that the stem borer has been at work down 
the pith, it is well just to smear the top of 
the Brier with some painter’s knotting. It 
is really best to do this as a preventive. 
Shades for the blooms for those who exhibit 
should now be got ready. They are invalu¬ 
able in protecting choice flowers both from 
sun and rain. Anyone hamlv with wire can 
soon make a cone-like frame, and if this is 
covered with oiled calico nothing more suit¬ 
able can be bought. The shades should be 
fastened to a movable ring, which can be 
lowered and raised upon a stake which is 
fitted with pegs at various distances. If a 
square piece of wood is selected for the sup- 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 










212 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Junk 22 , 1907 


port, the uliiule does not move nbout in the 
wind. 

Rambler Roses in pots are now easily 
procured, so that one may make a Rase gar 
den very interesting for the summer by 
plunging a few of these plants about, in bud 
or in bloom. Such plants can be utilised 
next winter for forcing. Often a bed of 
Roses would be much improved if one or two 
Bueh plants were dotted about. 

Repotting plants that have been forced 
should now be carried out, more especially 
in the case of the Teas and Hybrid Teas. 
We like to keep them under glass for a week 
or two, and then plunge them ill ashes in a 
sunny spot outside. A good compost for such 
Roses is as follows : —Three parts fibrous 
loam, one part one-year-old manure from 
frame beck, a good sprinkling of silver sand, 
and a 6 inch pot full of bone-meal to a bar¬ 
row-load of the compost, all thoroughly well 
stirred up. Be careful to pot firmly, and 
see that pots and crocks are clean, and that 
the ball of earth is moist throughout before 
repotting. If on turning out the plants but 
few roots are seen, it will be best not to 
repot such, but top-dress them in the autumn 
instead. This is a splendid time to plant out 
Marechal Niel and other climbers required 
for greenhouse roof. Plant young, growing 
plants of this year's grafting, and be careful 
to provide them with well-draiued border or 
tubs. Keep the atmosphere moist and warm, 
and they will make rapid growth. Where 
Fortune’s Yellow is grown under glass, now 
is a good time to prune it. Cut back hard 
to the main growths, and encourage new 
shoots by frequent syringings. As growth 
develops any side shoots coming from this 
year’s growth should be pinched back to one 
eye. Own root |>lants struck from cuttings 
this spring should be potted ofF as soon as 
roots are about ^ inch long. Pot into small 
60 pots, and keep in a nice growing tem¬ 
perature as near the glass as possible. They 
may need to bo shaded with paper for a few 
days, if sun comes out bright. Old pot-Roses 
that have become somewhat worn out, if 
planted out now. often make splendid growth 
by the autumn. The ball of earth should be 
gently probed, so that roots may freely work 
into the new soil. If at all “leggy,” the 
growths may be tied over, which induces a 
break from the base. The old wood may lie 
removed as soon as new growth is well 
advanced. Rosa. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Rose Felicite Perpetue I observe not infre¬ 
quently in your columns reference made to a well- 
known Rose under the name of Felicity Perpetue. 
May I be permitted to raise the question whether 
this name is correctly given, and to ask if the 
French adjective should not be perpetuelle? Should 
I prove to be right, 1 may, perhaps, express the hope 
that the error may be referred to by you, and that 
thus the incorrect word may be at. once and Anally 
given up in favour of the correct one, perpetuelle?— 
H. C. M. 

[No; the mistake you make is a perfectly 
natural one, w’hich anyone who knows French 
better than he does the names of saint6 and 
martyrs might b:* expected to fall into. The 
Rose is named after Felicite and Perpetue— 
two illustrious saints in Christian history, 
who were close friends, and were thrown into 
prison together, and eventually destroyed by 
wild beasts in the amphitheatre of Carthage. 
The date of their martyrdom was 203 A.D. 
The name “Felicite Perpetuelle ” is, there¬ 
fore, wrongly given ; so the proper way to 
write it is “ Felicite-Perpetue,” but the word 
“et” is occasionally inserted instead of the 
hyphen.] 

Rose Philadelphia Rambler. - This is so 
superior to Crimson Rambler in colour and 
form of blossom that no one should lose an 
opportunity of planting it. The flowers are 
as double a> those of a Ranunculus, and of 
that rich glowing scarlet colour which we 
have in Roses of the type of Duke of Wel¬ 
lington. Then, too, it opens somewhat 
earlier outdoors than the old Crimson 
Rambler, so on this account it should be 
welcome, prolonging, as it would, the season 
of these richly coloured Roses. The trusses 
of bloom are not so numerous, neither are 
they so large as in Crimson Rambler, but 
vet, when established, splendid clusters will 
appear from the ba6e of the plants. It will 
make a charming>et*ndard, and jalso a use¬ 


ful free bush. We all know the numerous 
ways in which Crimson Rambler can be 
utilised in the garden, and I see no reason 
why tliis new-comer should not be employed 
in like manner.—E. 

Rose Dr. J. Campbell Hall. -The more I 
see of this beautiful Rose the more I admire 
it. There is a wonderful freshness about its 
coral-pink colour, and the white suffusion 
with yellow' base to petals adds considerably 
to the attractiveness of tho variety. It will 
be a first-rate garden Rose, every shoot 
flowering and producing an almost perfect 
bloom. There is something of the sturdiness 
of the Hybrid Perpetual with the refinement 
of the Tea Rose in this flower. A Rose with 
such a freedom of flowering and vigour of 
growth is certain to make a good standard or 
half-standard, and, when severely disbudded, 
the quality is of a very high order. Messrs. 
A. Dickson and Sons hava given us so many 
grand novelties that it would only be fair to 
say this Rose ranks equal to their other pro¬ 
ductions, most of them being excellent 
growers, which is what we want.— Rosa. 

Rose Climbing White Maman Cochet I saw 
an announcement recently in an Australian paper 
that a climbing sport of this good Rose had ap¬ 
peared. and tlie writer said that nothing since Mar<$- 
(dial Niel was raised would equal this new-comer. If 
it is really a vigorous climber, I can well believe this 
last statement, for surely there is no more charming 
Tea Rose than White Maman Cochet.—W. K. 


INDOOR PLANT& 

HOW TO GROW CALCEOLARIAS. 

Bv the time the last few plnnts are on the 
wane, seed for the supply of next year’s stock 
must be sown, and June is a very suitable 
month for it to be done. Pnns 4 inches deep 
are most serviceable. These need crocking 
carefully witli a few leaves over the crocks 
before filling to within half an inch of the 
top. The soil must be passed through a 
quarter inch sieve, and consist of equal parts 
loam and decayed leaf-soil, with the addition 
of silver or clean river sand. Then 
thoroughly mix together, and place in the 
pan, pressing the same firmly with a piece 
of brick and finishing it off quite level. Water 
this with a very fine rose can a couple of 
hours previous to sowing the tiny, dust like 
seed, which requires much care in distribut¬ 
ing over the given surface, which can best 
be done by putting the seed on a clean sheet 
of writing paper. Merely a dusting of fine 
sand will be sufficient covering. Place the 
pan under a north wall, after well liming the 
surroundings, and then cover the pan with 
either glass and brown paper or a piece of 
slate. Within a week germination Hhould 
have taken place ; light and a small amount 
of air will then be necessary to prevent the 
tiny plants damping. Protect the seedlings 
from the sun, and give abundance of air, 
which, perhaps, can best, be done by placing 
the pan in cool north pit or frame, keeping 
it quite near the glass, so that the little 
plants from the first grow sturdy. When 
water is necessary—the soil should never be 
allowed to get dry—give it through a fine rose 
can, and, as soon as large enough to handle, 
prick the seedlings out into other pans of 
similar soil, 2 inches to 3 inches asunder. 
Water in, place back in the same position, 
keep close for a few r days, sprinkle with a 
syringe two or three times daily, and protect 
from the sun’s rays up to 5 p.m. Pot up the 
plants into 3-inch pots before crowding 
takes place, using a similar soil, but a trifle 
rougher in texture, still keeping them in a 
north aspect, with abundance of fresh air 
and moist surroundings. Examine the plants 
frequently, and, should green-fly be in evi¬ 
dence, fumigate at once with XL All, than 
which there is no better on the market. At¬ 
tend well to the watering of the plants, and, 
as soon as the roots are working well towards 
the crocks, transfer into pots 5 inches, 
5£ inches, and 6 inches, according to size of 
plant. At this potting dried cow-manure or 
fresh horse-droppings, passed through a fine- 
meshed sieve, can be mixed with the loam 
and leaf-soil, the former preponderating, 
and a dash of fresh *soot tends to impart a 
healthy green to the foliage. The plants in 
our ordinary winters are usually safe in 
frames or pits without any fire-heat up to 
pretty nigh the end of November, wfien they 


should Ikj removed to airy shelves, such as 
a late Peach-house or vinery affords. Here 
watering must not be neglected, as the plants 
dry much quicker than when resting ou an 
ash bottom. Moreover, they much benefit by 
dewing overhead morning and evening with 
the syringe, avoiding fire-heat in any form 
unless it is to ward off frost. Towards the 
middle of February the plants should be fit 
for their shift into 7-inch and 8-incli pots 
respectively, a similar soil suiting their re¬ 
quirements, keeping the ball of rooty a trifle 
below the new soil, and potting fairly firm, 
taking every care of the stout yet crisp leaves, 
which, if broken, spoil the look of a plant. 
By the middle of March the plants may safely 
be transferred into the brick pit again, 
previously seeing that they are free of aphis. 
Here, to be on the safe side, mat them up 
securely each night, water carefully until the 
roots have well penetrated the new compost, 
keeping the foliage syringed twice daily, 
and giving a light shade towards the end of 
that month if it is found the sun causes the 
plants to droop. Keep any decaying foliage 
removed from the base of the plant, place a 
neat stake to each betimes, and add to that 
number ns the side shoots advance, half a 
dozen usually sufficing for the best grown 
specimens, removing the plants to the con¬ 
servatory or greenhouse as the flowers ex¬ 
pand. Still protect from strong sunshine, 
affording a weak stimulant once or twice a 
week from early April. 

Devonian. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Aralia Sieboldi leaves dropping I have 
several Castor-oil plants, and lately the bottom 
leaves have dropped otf. Could you tell ine the 
reason, and also, if I were to cut them down, would 
the stems shoot out ajrain? One of the plants seems 
always to be covered with blight; but all the others 
seem healthy. Can you tell me the reason of this?— 
M. F. M. 

[That referred to by you as the Castor- 
oil plant is, in all probability, Aralia Sie¬ 
boldi, which has often the erroneous name of 
Castor oil plant applied to it. As the new 
leaves develop, the old ones on the lower part 
of the stem naturally drop, and in this way 
the plant in time presents a somewhat leggy 
appearance. You may, if you wish, cut yours 
down to about 6 inches from the surface of the 
soil, and the plants so treated will, in time, 
Hish out young shoots. They will, however, 
>e shabby for months, and, such being the 
ease, you would, perhaps, better plant yours 
out-of-doors, for this Aralia is hardy in most 
parts of the country. Concerning this mat¬ 
ter you will ‘find an interesting article in 
Gardening for Muy 18th last, page 152, in 
which its value for the outdoor border is 
touched upon. With regard to your speci¬ 
men which is covered with blight, the insects 
referred to are, doubtless, aphides, many 
kinds of which are popularly termed green¬ 
fly, but this name will not apply to that 
which attacks the Aralia, as it is of a blackish 
colour. The 6ame measures, however, as 
resorted to for the destruction of the ordi¬ 
nary kind, may be applied for the extermina¬ 
tion of this. Fumigation or vaporising with 
Tobacco will kill them, but, in the case of a 
single plant, it may be readily sponged with 
soap-suds, and, if carefully done, they will be 
cleared off and destroyed. For the very 
young leaves, on which the insects congregate 
the most thickly, a soft brush is preferable 
to a sponge, as the exceedingly tender foli¬ 
age is so quickly injured.] 

Gloxinias. —These are now coming into 
bloom, and make a nice change for the front 
row in conservatories. Many amateurs look 
on them as very difficult plants to cultivate, 
but they are very easily grown if ordinary 
care is given them. I think many lose them 
in the winter by leaving them in cold green¬ 
houses. If they were packed into a box of 
Cocoa-nut-fibre* and set in any warm cup¬ 
board until the days begin to lengthen, and 
then taken out into the greenhouse, and the 
Cocoa nut fibre moistened a little, it would be 
found that the majority of them would push 
up strongly. They need light rich soil, such 
as leaf-mould, sand, and decayed manure, 
and with plenty of moisture, both at the root 
and in the atmosphere, they will grow luxuri¬ 
antly and flower free!v.*— James Groom, 

firaffcSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



June 22 , 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


213 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 

LARGE FLOWERED WOOD LILY (T. 
GRANDIFLORUM). 

This, the beet and most, easily grown kind, 
will bear more sunlight than most, and often 
does well amid masses of Rhododendrons, 
but if too much exposed its beauty is lost. 
It is very beautiful when seen as in the mass 
figured to-day, flowering freely each year dur¬ 
ing April and May. Old, well-rooted plants 
are often 2 feet or more high, each flower 
3 inches wide, usually white, but at times 
tinged with green or purple, and fading to a 
rosy colour. It abounds in forests of North 
Carolina, Wisconsin, and Kentucky, as pro¬ 
fuse as the Snowdrops and Anemones of 
English woods, seedling forms different in 
size and colour being common side by side. 
The form sold as majus is only a selection of 
these large-flowered seedlings or the result of 
good culture in gardens. A fine coloured 
Form, roeeum, is very distinct, and good as a 
contrast to the white. Its rosy colour is 
deepest on the outside of the |K*tal«. and most 
marked in its early stages, before the fading 


being dwarf and bushy in habit. Then there 
are the Forget-me-nots or Myosotis, among 
which the variety named dissitiflora is the 
best of all, and which also has the valuable 
property of commencing to flower in a 
favourable season early in April. Perfection 
is another charming kind, but it is much 
later in flowering, and is, in fact, only now 
passing out of bloom with us. Seed of either 
sort may be sown about the last week in 
June in boxes, and the plants pricked out in 
the open in rows from 9 inches to 1 foot apart, 
allowing a space of 9 indies between the plants. 
Violas also make a fine display in the early 
spring months, and may be used either for 
edging or to fill beds entirely with them, with 
charming effect. These you can also raise 
from seed, which is best sown either in pans 
or boxes, and raised in a cold frame, after¬ 
wards pricking out the seedlings 4 inches to 
5 inches apart on a border or in a frame. Seed 
can be bought which will produce plants 
giving flowers varying from white to purple, 
and the end of June is a good time to sow. 
If Pansies are raised at the same time and 
in the same manner, they will flower pro¬ 
fusely in the early spring months. You can 


the samo remarks apply to Aubrietia also. 
Both can also be raised from seed, and are 
amongst the most showy of spring bedding 
plants. All of the foregoing are quite hardy, 
and the seeds are not expensive to buy. Fur¬ 
ther, you should experience no difficulty 
whatever in raising tho desired number of 
plants, and in having them ready for filling 
the beds in the autumn, if you follow the in¬ 
structions given, and the result should be a 
fine display of blossom next spring.] 


HARDY FLOWER NOTES. 

Draba brun^sfolia. A charming little 
species this, not difficult to manage, but, like 
all members of the family, rejoicing in a 
free, rather light, soil, which parts readily 
with superfluous moisture in winter. It 
forms cushions of verdure, from which the 
bright little yellow blossoms are thrown up, 
and. being a free flowering species, it makes 
a brave show in the early spring months. 
On light soils, where the natural drainage is 
very good, this Draba might. I should say, 
lx; used as an edging plant. It is one of the 
1 best things that a beginner can take in hand, 



A group of the large-flowered Wood Lily (Trillium grandifloruiu) in the gardens at West wick House', North Walsham. 


flowers of the white take on their rosy hue ; 
its leaves and stems also are deeply bronzed 
and handsome. Planted in company the 
effect of the two kinds is charming. The 
Wood Lilies bloom well in pots, but trie smell 
of the flowers is unpleasant. 


PLANTS FOR SPRING BEDDING. 

Will you be kind enough to tell me what seeds 1 can 
bow, and how soon, of plants t-o put into the beds 
when the summer things come off, so as to have 
early display in spring? The beds are very big, and 
bulbs would be too expensive.—R. F. H. 

[There are a great many species of plants 
suitable for spring bedding, and which can 
be raised from seed during the present and 
two succeeding months. Foremost among 
them are Wallflowers, which can now be had 
in a great variety of colour, and which come 
true from seed, which should be sown at 
once in boxes if but a limited number of 
plants is required, and outdoors, in shallow 
drills, on an open piece of ground or border, 
if the demand is likely to be larger. The 
plants in either case must be transplanted 
in lines 1 foot apart all ways as soon as large 
enough, choosing an open and rather poor 
piece of ground, /whtch • will enfure their 

Go ore 


either have these in distinct colours or in 
mixture, and make a very striking display 
with them. Next come the Polyanthuses, 
seed of which, if sown at once, and raised in 
a cold frame, will give plants that will flower 
next spring if they are pricked off as soon as 
large enough to handle, and grown on with¬ 
out a check. If you have a friend who 
could oblige you with some freshly-saved 
seed, you would be sure of its germinating 
quickly. Polyanthus seed, if at all old, will 
often lie a long time before it germinates. 
Primroses can also be raised in the same 
way, the coloured varieties being very effec¬ 
tive when planted in masses. Double 
Daisies can also be raised from seed. These 
may be had in three shades of colour—white, 
pink, and red. July will be early enough to 
sow. A very charming pink flowering bien¬ 
nial is the Silene, or Catchfly. There are 
several varieties of it, the one we favour 
most being S. Bonnetti, which is dwarf- 
habited, has dark foliage, and produces 
flowers, of a light pink colour. Sow the seed 
in July, and plant in lines outdoors the same 
as for Myosotis. If you have any stock 
plants of white Arabis, single or double 
flowered, you could easily propagate a num¬ 
ber of plants between now and October, and 


as with ordinary care it is certain to give 
satisfaction. 

Trolliu8 asiaticus. —If you want to 
know what this Globe-flower is really like, 
plant on the north side of a wall or fence, 
where the roots are in a comparatively moist 
condition throughout the summer. My stock 
of this and allied forms was grown in full 
exposure to the sun, and this spring the 
plants are stunted, the flowers being scanty 
and poor in quality. In marked contrast to 
these is a plant that two years ago happened 
to be set among hardy Ferns on the north 
side of a building. This is about 2} feet 
high, proportionately large, the picture of 
health, and covered with blooms large in 
size and rich in colour. This luxuriance is 
undoubtedly due to the fact that the crowns 
were enabled to put on substance during the 
growing time, whereas in full exposure to 
the great, heat and drought of last summer 
they could not attain to normal vigour. 

Polemonium RErTANS.—I have this spring 
been much impressed with the merits of 
this species. The bright blue flowers are 
produced with sufficient freedom to render 
well established plants very effective during 
the month of May. Although this species 
bears a family resemblance to other mem- 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 













214 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


June 22 , 1907 


bers of the family, it has, nevertheless, a 
distinct appearance, being dwarf and com¬ 
pact with rich green foliage, which shows up 
the flowers to much advantage. 1 made the 
acquaintance of this Polemonium last year 
for the first time, but my plants were too 
small to enable me to estimate its worth. 
From what I can see of it, it is admirably 
adapted to the front row of the mixed border, 
and, judging by the growth made in very- 
light soil in a time of great heat and drought, 
it ought to have special value for those who 
have poor, porous soils to deal with. 

Phlox amckna.- Few spring flowers create 
a finer effect than this when the plants are in 
a normal, vigorous, healthy condition. The 
great difficulty is to maintain this healthy 
state. After the second season it is apt to 
dwindle. Many of the shoots die away, and 
those that remain bear few flowers of in¬ 
different quality. I have found that when 
once it comes into this condition restoration 
to perfect health and flower-bearing is almost 
impossible. The one safe way with this little 
Phlox is to transplant biennially into fresh 
ground that has been well sweetened and pre¬ 
pared by the addition of decayed vegetable 
matter, or a little peat. The nature of it is 
to extend in a creeping manner underground, 
and this it cannot do if the soil becomes close 
and sour. The moment it ceases to extend 
debility commences. 

Aquilegia Hkjnnkri. There nrc spurious 
strains of this ii) commerce, the flowers 
plainly showing traces of chrysantha, the 
pollen of which is seemingly very potent. 
The true Skinneri is of dwarfer habit than 
the hybrid forms, and unless it gets some 
special attention is apt to die out in the 
course of a season or two, especially if the 
summer should happen to be very hot and 
dry. Owing to the bright red colour of the 
flowers, it is an attractive species when in 
the enjoyment of favourable conditions. It 
is not one of those things that are capable of 
holding their own in the mixed border. It 
must have an abundance of light and air. 
Crowding is fatal to it. 

Hemerofallis IJumortieiu. - Some half- 
dozen plants that do not happen to have been 
disturbed for several years 'are now making 
a brave show, carrying quite a hundred 
flower-trusses. This is a capital tiling for 
the mixed flower border, as it forms a com¬ 
pact mass of rich green foliage, very pleasing 
even when out of bloom. The bronzy-yellow 
flowers continue to expand for several weeks, 
and as it does not exceed 2 feet in height it 
can be placed in the front portion of the 
border. 

By fleet. J. Cornhill. 


STERNBERGIA (LILY OF THE FIELD). 
A cheery antidote to the melancholy of an 
autumn day is a tuft of Field Lilies. They 
are among my favourite plants, blooming in 
the early days before one can forget the 
summer pageant or settle to the sober trim¬ 
ness of December. The Crocus, well enough 
when storms allow, cannot stand one-half the 
buffeting these little “ Winter Daffodils” en¬ 
dure, their firm petals not a whit the worse 
for it. The eheerv dark-green foliage stands 
out like a landmark in the border, where all 
else is brown or yellow, and if the sun breaks 
out the golden globes soon expand. Cut while 
in bud and set in water, the flowers last for 
some time. "Where it succeeds there is 
nothing in the garden that can come near the 
Sternbergia for effect in October and Novem¬ 


ber, and charming pictures may be made by 
growing it and the Saffron Crocus boldly to¬ 
gether, ns at Kew, an easy thing, because the 
treatment is the same for both. The scarlet 
Hchizostylis also begins to flower at much the 
same time, or the Sternbergia may be used to 
succeed the Belladonna Lily in tho warm, 
narrow borders where this does so well. 
There is indeed no better place for it, tin 
treatment given to Amaryllis Belladonna 
being equally suited to Amaryllis lutea, as 
the Sternbergia was once called. The secret 
of success lies in remembering the climatic 
conditions of the Mediterranean region—the 
fierce heat and absence of rain from May to 
September or October, followed by the copi¬ 
ous rains of autumn, interspersed wi£h days 
taf clear, strong sunli^^ ~ 


Dig 


i, interspersed with davi 


thing approaching these conditions needs in¬ 
genuity, and is best managed by growing the 
bulbs at the foot of a south wail, where they 
find radiated heat even in winter, and no 
undue moisture. Where the 6oil is at all 
heavy it is no uncommon thing for the bulbs 
to rot during one of our wet summers, so un¬ 
like the torrid dryness of the southern hill 
sides, and failure to bloom is almost certainly 
due to the w'ant of a well-defined season of 
rest and ripening. Where this can be secured 
in the dry soil beside-a wall, and particularly 
a greenhouse wall warmed during winter, 
there is good hope of the Sternbergia flower¬ 
ing w r ell. At Cambridge, where the thin 
upper crust overlying a dry subsoil is well 
baked during summer, the Field Lilies, 
though less abundant, do equally well, and 
the same may be said of parts of Kent, Hamp¬ 
shire, and other of the southern counties. A 
chalk or limestone soil is favourable, and 
where this is lacking lime-rubbish should be 
added, but no fresh manure. For heavy land 
with a cold subsoil the advice is sometimes 
given to lift the bulbs and ripen them artifi¬ 
cially, but however this may do in the south 
of Europe, with its long autumn, it is better 
in this country to keep them undisturbed, or 
give up their culture. 

The needed protection from rain during 
summer can be secured by natural means 
quite as well as by a frame or haudlight, if 
the position be well chosen. Being hardy, 
the bulbs do not require to lie buried deeply, 
unless it be in very light -soils, and with many 
of the Amnryllids deep planting tends to the 
production of offsets rather than flowers. It 
is, therefore, possible to plant 8 tern be rgi as 
near the foot of a small standard fruitdree, so 
as to enjoy the sun and a dry place just when 
it is most needed. In this way they may be a 
success at the foot of a Pear-tree, or high and 
dry upon the far-reaching root-mass of a 
creeper against the house-front, and a failure 
in other parts of the same garden. When 
happy, the bulbs keep up a succession of 
bloom, and then the patches increase but 
slowly, whereas when flowers are scarce the 
bulbs increase fast, splitting into offsets, 
which often divide again before they are 
strong enough to flower, and thus a sterile 
habit is induced, to which the bad character 
of the Field Lily is due. Seed is seldom pro 
duced in this country, and, as has been said, 
the desirable free-blooming varieties such as 
augustifulia increase but slowly, It is, there¬ 
fore, best to start with imported bulbs from a 
good firm, which mostly flower in the second 
season. The only enemy of any moment be¬ 
side our climate is the Narcissus-fly, which 
sometimes attacks these bulbs. 

8. COLCHici flora . —An old species, known 
in British gardens from the days of Parkin¬ 
son, who called it the Lesser Winter.Daffodil. 
It is a hardy little plant, growing on the dry, 
exposed hillsides of southwest Europe, from 
Sicily to the Crimea (where it is very abun¬ 
dant), and thence throughout Caucasus and 
the Levant. The leaves are narrow, four to 
six in number, and 3 inches or 4 inches long, 
coming only in the spring as the seed-vessels 
ripen. The flowers are pale sulphur-yellow, 
and fragrant, opening during September and 
October. 

8. Fischeriana. —This differs from the 
other species in that it flowers in spring, 
leaves and blossoms coining at- the same time 
during February and March. It is, however, 
the poorest form of all, with erect, pallid- 
yellow flowers, very short in the tube, and on 
very short stems. While hardy and less 
troublesome to flower than some kinds, the 
petals are w’eak, and need shelter from the 
wind and heavy rain of the early year. The 
leaves are a paler green than in other kinds. 
Caucasus and Asia Minor, syn. Sporanthus 
Fischerianus. An early form of this, in which 
the flowers are of greater (substance, and open 
from early in December, has recently been 
discovered by Siehc, and named var. preecox. 

S. lutea. —The commonest kind, found 
throughout the Mediterranean region both in 
Europe and Africa, extending thence east¬ 
ward as far as Persia. In this kind the 
leaves are about a foot long and half-an inch 
w r ide, deep green in colour, and coming with 
the flowere in the autumn. The flow’ers are a 
clear yellow, and scented almost like a But¬ 


tercup, opening sometimes in September, but 
more often in October or November, according 
to the time of the autumn rains. The flower- 
stems are only about half the length of the 
leaves, so that in large tufts the beauty ot 
the flow ers is somewhat concealed; bulbs 
large and oval in shape. A great many wild 
forms of this plant exist, and seedlings vary 
in colour. The best variety is nngustifolia, 
which, while flowering somewhat later, is 
freer and more constant, with leaves a little 
narrower, and flowers of more intense yellow. 
Another good form is major, in which tho 
petals have a trick of opening flatly in the 
sunshine ; w hile the variety Ikarne is a 
sturdy little plant with shorter leaves, so that 
the flowers are fully exposed, and yet of such 
substance, and held so sturdily, that the 
bleak days of November are powerless to hurt 
them in the alpine garden at Kew r . The form 
grreca, from the mountains of Greece, has 
very narrow leaves, and flow'ers composed or 
broadly rounded segments; while another 
local form from the mountains of Crete has 
larger flowers borne upon long stalks. There 
was formerly a double form in cultivation, 
but this is now lost. 

S. macrantha. —A new and handsome 
species, the largest and most vigorous, but 
rare in gardens. The flowers are bright 
yellow, unfolding from finely-rounded, egg- 
shaped buds in the autumn, and 2 inches or 
more in length of tube, while the segments 
are frequently more than an inch wide. The 
leaves, which are blunt and pale grey-green 
in colour, about an inch wide when mature, 
are not seen till the spring, reaching their full 
size in June just before dying away. The 
bulb is large and more rounded than in other 
species. Asia Minor and the Levant to Wes¬ 
tern Persia. Syns., S. lntifolia and 8. 
Clusiana. 

C. bicula. —A species from Sicily, coming 
so near lutea as to be ofteniela<ssed as a mero 
form of it. It is of strong growth, with fine 
foliage, and flowers of good size and colour. 

B. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Increasing the double Gypsophila.- I have a 
few roots of Gypsophila paniculuta, II.-pi. Could you 
kindly tell me the best way and tin; best time to 
propagate? I took a lot of cuttings about 
August 20th last. These I put in a box of soil — ;* 
mixture of Moss and sand—and placed them in a 
cold frame in the shade. I looked to them well, 
but they have all died. I also potted one root, and 
placed it in a forcing-house, and tried to propagate 
in the same manner as Dahlias, but failed. 1 shall 
be very grateful if you can give me any advice.— 
M ARKKT (J ARDF.NKR. 

[The only safe way to increase this plant 
from cuttings is to place the stock plant in 
u. cool greenliou.se in February, so potting it 
that the tuft, of the root stock is well in sight. 
All old flowering stems and growths must 
be cut away as low as possible. In the 
course of a week or two young shoots appear, 
and these, when three inches long, must be 
detached with care from the root stock, with 
a heel attached. These should be inserted 
without further preparation into sandy soil, 
and, if no dung frame is available, cover the 
cuttings with a bell-glass. As not many 
shoots issue from the base of any plant, it 
may be necessary or advisable at least to 
pinch out the points of the first made shoots, 
to encourage the formation of others at their 
base, treating them when ready as recom¬ 
mended above. The cuttings must never be 
made to a joint. August cuttings could only 
have been made from the annual stems, 
which perish, and as these contain no axillary 
buds for reproduction, are valueless.] 

Pentstemon procerus. As you remark in 
the excellent review of the Pentstenions in 
Gardening of April 13th, “ this is a beautiful 
little plant, and about the hardiest of all the 
species,” so that one is surprised that it is 
so little cultivated, especially in the rock 
garden, where it is most at home, and where 
it presents the best appearance. With any¬ 
thing like fair treatment it will do well there, 
and will live for many years without any 
attention, save an occasional top-dressing, 
and some attention to prevent it from being 
encroached upon by other plants. Its 
synonymy is rather troublesome, as, besides 
the names of mtidiis and micranthus, which 
yob give, the Kew ” Hand List,” under pro- 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



June - 22 , 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


215 



cerus, refers to P. confertus var. cceruleo- 
purpureus. This is unfortunate, from the 
gardener’s point of view, as it gives us a most 
cumbrous name for a plant now pretty well 
known under the name of procerus. One 
agrees with all you say as to its qualities, and 
the attention of readers may well be drawn 
to the remarks in the article referred to.—S. 
Arnott. 


THE MOUNTAIN TOBACCO (ARNICA 
MONTANA). 

V ery few people seem to know this pretty 
plant. It belongs to the Groundsels, and 
corner from the mountains of Central Europe. 
It is worth growing, as it flowers very freely, 
os may be seen by the illustration we give to- 


day, and is very showy when in bloom in 
June and July. The flower-heads are large, 
compared with the other parts of the plant, 
being some 3 inches or more across. The 
florets are of a bright orange, an effective 
colour among early summer flowers. It does 
best in a good loamy soil which is inclined to 
be stiff, and to which a little peat may be 
added. The whole plant lias important medi¬ 
cinal properties, and is chiefly used in the 
form of tincture as a popular application to 
bruises. 


Brompton Stocks.— A dash of purple in a 
village garden on a hillside early in May led 
to a discussion as to the probability of the 
subject. One member of the company 
asserted that it wrs tJffe""^>uimle blosloms 

Digitized by vjO ■ 'QIC 


I of Honesty, but on closer acquaintance it 
turned out to lx? Brompton Stocks that were 
| so full of flower, and demonstrated forcibly 
how liardy they are, for, although in a some¬ 
what exposed position, they had withstood all 
the severity of the past winter. It is not al¬ 
ways, however, that Brompton Stocks are 
such a success, and w r here a failure ensues it 
may often be traced to late sowing of 6eed. 
The plants referred to were raised from seed 
, sown in June, 1906, and were got into their 
1 flowering quarters early in October, and thus 
became established before the severe weather 
set in. Like Wallflowers, they do not need 
a rich compost in their early stages of growth, 
but may with advantage lie planted in good 
soil when shifted finally. Brompton Stocks, 

I too, are convenient for potting up in the 


autumn for placing in cold houses or houses 
where little fire is kept in the winter months. 
—F. W. D. 

Pansies failing (J. L. Ele*on).— \n the case of 
Pansies, it is always well to cut off the flowers as 
soon as they begin to fade to prevent the formation 
of seed-pods, which weaken the plant. The Pansies 
you refer to are evidently the large-flowered forms, 
which give only a few blooms and then gradually 
perish, more especially if the weather is hot and dry 
and the soil poor. In such a case you should grow 
what are known as Tufted Pansies. Tha discoloration 
of the Rose-leaves is due to the cold weather we have 
had lately, and will disappear, no doubt, when the 
days and nights get milder. 


Index to Volume XXVIII.— The binding covers 
(price Is. 6d. each, post free. Is. 9d.) and Index (3d., 
post free, 3$d.) for Volume XXVIII. are now ready, 
and may be had of all newsagents, or of the Pub¬ 
lisher, post free, 2s. for the two, 


CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

EARLY FLOWERING CHRYSAN¬ 
THEMUMS. 

Seasonable Notes. 

Early-flowering Chrysanthemums are 
growing away freely now. The moist weather 
of the past month has assisted in the more 
speedy establishing of the plants, although 
during brief periods of bright sunshine they 
have flagged to some extent, owing to the 
soft character of the growth. Growth in 
some of the more forward batches of plants 
already needs support, and this should not 
be put off. First, ascertain the approximate 
height—this varies according to the season — 
of each variety; then insert a stake of suf¬ 
ficient stoutness to support the strong, 
branching growths that most of the early- 
flowering Chrysanthemums develop. Some 
may prefer to insert a short stake for each 
plant at this period, with the object of using 
stronger ones later oil. This is a very good 
plan, provided the second stake be inserted 
between the plants, so that the stakes alter 
nate with the Chrysanthemums. This sys¬ 
tem of staking enables the grower to bring 
the whole of the ample growths within a 
loosely, yet securely, arranged tie, so that 
the natural character of the plant is pre¬ 
served. This method of staking and tying is 
advocated on the assumption that the plants 
are arranged in rows. When this is so. it. is 
a good plan to commence at one end of the 
row with a very stout stake, following on 
alternately between the plants right through 
the row with less stout stakes, and finishing 
off with another very stout stake, similar in 
every respect to the one with which the row 
was commenced. For tying, or rather loop¬ 
ing, the growths I prefer tarred twine. This 
is strong and reliable, and never fails in a 
very moist season. Tie securely to the first, 
stout stake, and then work down one side of 
the row, making a tie at each stake, in this 
way bringing within the loop like tie the 
growths on the one side of the row. Return 
by the same method on the other side of the 
•row, finishing off at the starting point by 
securely tying again. . In this way the whole 
of the ample growths as they begin to assume 
larger proportions may be brought within a 
suitable compass, and risk of broken shoots 
be thereby reduced to a minimum. Do not 
loop the growths too tightly, as they will in¬ 
crease in size as they grow, and for this rea¬ 
son the grower, to some extent, must, antici¬ 
pate the demands upon the space required. 
Where the early flowering Chrysanthemums 
are planted individually in the border, or in 
groups, the method of staking and tying must 
be slightly altered. Some of the larger 
plants, especially old plants with their 
numerous shoots, will require three good 
stakes to meet the strain of wind and weather 
later on. In such cases insert the stakes in 
triangular fashion, tightly straining the 
tarred twine between them. In groups or 
colonies of these plants it is a good plan to 
insert stakes here and there in the centre of 
the group, with others equi-distant on the 
outside. In this way it is a simple matter to 
bring all the growths under control, and, at 
the same time to preserve the even contour 
of the plants. 

Many gardens possess at least a few old 
clumps of these plants, and there are also 
many instances in which it is a common prac¬ 
tice to retain the old stools for a year or two. 
By a little judicious treatment at this period 
it is possible to make interesting plants of 
these old 6tools. This is done by dealing 
with them in somewhat drastic fashion, and 
cutting out the many su))erfluous shoots. As 
a rule, the old stools develop a very large 
number of shoots, and as a consequence many 
of the stronger ones are often puny and 
elongated, and just a few only attain really 
proper dimensions. Tt, is much better, 
therefore, at this period, to cut out all the 
weakly shoots, retaining half a dozen to a 
dozen of the stronger one6, leaving these 
equi-distant on the old stools. By these 
means light and air are let into the growths, 
and sturdy shoots, nicely ripened, invariably 
follow as a consequence. Plants treated in 
this fashion give a most wonderful display of 
flowers. The hoe should be used often be¬ 
tween the plants just now. A weekly hoeing 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


The Mountain Tobacco (Arnica montana). 




216 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Jons 22 , 1907 


not only keeps tin* w<**d« under, but also 
encourages healthy and vigorous root action, 
and promotes growth of a most desirable 
kind. 

There is a tendency with many growers to 
pinch back the growths of Chrysanthemums 
grown in the open border ; we do not advo¬ 
cate this practice, and have no sympathy with 
it. Those who examine plants that have 
been pinched back will find that the shoots 
that develop immediately below the, “break” 
thus caused, are not so securely set in the 
axils of the leaves as are those from plants 
grown in a natural manner. I have found, 
after long experience, that plants pinched 
back, as is so often done in ignorance, fre¬ 
quently suffer most when tne boisterous 
weather of August and later months is ex¬ 
perienced. Fine branching growths have 
snapped off just when the buds are opening, 
or later, when the flowers are at their best, 
and when a fall of rain has taken place the 
weight has been too great a strain. On the 
other hand, a natural form of growth has 
almost always come through such an ordeal 
unharmed. E. G. 

ORCHIDS. 

EPIDENDRUM COCHLEATUM. 

Can you tell me the name of this Orchid and the 
proper treatment of it? It was sent to me from 
Jamaica three years ago, and is now in bloom for the 
first time. The upper part of the flower is purple, 
with deep - yellow centre, and the lower part is 
pure white. There are several buds to each stalk, 
though they are not very well shown in the photo¬ 
graphs. I believe it is called a “ Rock Orchid " in 
Jamaica. 1 bad five or six West. Indian Orchids in 
bud this year, but the buds fogged from the other 
plants, so I imagine I am not treating them pro¬ 
perly.—H. C. 

[The name of your Orchid from Jamaica is 
Epidcndrum cochleatuni. The plant has a 
wide range in the West Indies, Mexico, and 
Central America, whence it spreads into New 
Grenada and Venezuela. It has also been 
discovered on the Atlantic coast of Florida. 
This Epidendrum was the first of its genus 
to flower in this country, which it did in the 
Royal Gardens at Kew in 1787, just 120 years 
ago. The plant should be grown in a pot 
jlist proportionate to its size. Overpotting 
should be strictly guarded against. The 
drainage, consisting of broken clean crocks, 
should fill the pots to at least two-thirds of 
their depth, over which place a thin layer 
of rough Sphagnum Moss, to prevent any 
fine particles of the soil clogging the drain¬ 
age. The compost used should consist of 
fibrous peat and Sphagnum Moss, in the pro- 
portion of two-thirds of the former to one- 
third of the latter. Both should be well 
mixed together, chopping up moderately fine, 
and adding sufficient small crocks to ensure 
porosity in the compost. The plants, on 
being potted, should be kept about on a level 
with the rim, pressing the compost about the 
roots with moderate firmness, but not so hard 
as will prevent water from freely percolating 
through the whole. The best time for repot¬ 
ting is soon after the plant commences to 
grow, as it is then that new roots push out 
and quickly obtain a hold in the fresh potting 
material. After repotting the plant will re¬ 
quire careful watering, only as much being 
needed as will prevent undue shrivelling, and 
on no account should the 6oil be saturated, 
or the leaves will quickly become spotted, 
and black rot will appear in the pseudo bulbs. 
When growth is completed, the water supply 
should l>e diminished gradually, till only just 
sufficient is given to prevent the leaves and 
pseudo bulbs shrivelling. Grow the plant in 
vvliat is generally known as the Cattleya- 
house, the night temperature of which, dur¬ 
ing the summer months, should range between 
60 degs. and 70 degs., and in winter from 
55 degs. to 60 degs., as maintained by fire- 
heat. The day temperature will rise con¬ 
siderably above these figures when the 
weather is bright and warm. At this season 
the house should be damped down two or 
three times a day, but in winter the same 
number of dampings in a week will suffice. 
Afford ventilation with discretion at all 
times, taking care to avoid violent draughts, 
and sudden fluctuations in the temperature. 
It is very difficult to advise correct ventila¬ 
tion, but it should be influenced and regu¬ 
lated according to the temperature of the 
external air. Shad«/th« plant from all strong 

Digitized by\jCK glC 


sunshine during summer, but in winter un¬ 
interrupted sunlight will tend toward the well 
ripening of the new growths and a strong in¬ 
florescence. The probable reason why the 
other Orchid# dropped their flower-buds is 
that the plants were kept too wet at the root 
during the resting period.] 


FRUIT. 

GRAPES IN BAD CONDITION. 

I HAVE read with much interest the remarks on Vines 
and on wall-fruit, contained in your issue of the 1st 
Inst. My vinery is not up to-date, and may suffer 
from slight draughts or from inattention to ventila¬ 
tion when the sun bursts out fitfully; but, speaking 
generally, the Vines are healthy, and furnish annu¬ 
ally a splendid crop. For the last two years, how¬ 
ever, I have been rendered uneasy by the turning of 
many of the berries to purple just at this time, 
before stoning, and I should be very glad to know 
from you the probable cause and remedy, ulso if this 
is scalding?—H. N. R. 

[From the description you give of the ap¬ 
pearance of the affected berries, there is not 
the slightest doubt they have been scalded. 
As stated in the article to which you refer, 
scalding under ordinary conditions is con¬ 
fined to but very few varieties of the Grape- 
Vine, of which that known as Lady Dowiic’h 
is the worst. It is while entering upon and 
when passing through the stoning period 
that the berries of these particular varieties 
are liable to scald, and at no other time are 
they so affected if cultural management i# as 
it should be. In these few instances, and 
particularly with regard to the variety 
named, scalding can with care be averted; 
and it. is our practice to have the few fol¬ 
lowing rules strictly followed out during the 
time the Vines are parsing through this 
trying ordeal, the result# of which have 
always proved satisfactory- The first thing 
to guard against, especially if the weather 
be warm, is in dispensing with artificial 
heat. This is false economy, and the effect 
which i« produced, especially on chilly 
nights, when there is no heat being given off 
by the pipes to keep the air in circulation, 
is well described in the article which you 
cite. This is one of, if not the most fruit¬ 
ful source of scalding we are acquainted 
with, and, no matter what outer weather 
conditions may be, always maintain a genial 
warmth in the hot-water pipes at night until 
the stoning process is complete. This en¬ 
sures a warm, buoyant atmosphere con¬ 
stantly circulating throughout the vinery, 
and it. also admits of a chink of air being 
left on at the apex throughout the night. 
The next, thing we insist upon is not to per¬ 
form the customary damping down either in 
the morning or afternoon at closing-time 
during the stoning period, but to do it in¬ 
stead in the daytime, while the veutilators 
are open. If you have vapour troughs on 
the hot-water-pipes, they should also be 
allowed to go dry, so that there may be no 
risk of vapour or steam settling upon the 
berries. Be careful to ventilate early on 
bright mornings, increasing the amount of 
ventilation as the day xvears on, and reduce 
it in like manner in the afternoon, unless the 
state of the weather should demand its being 
done earlier. By following out these few 
simple directions, you will be able to pre¬ 
vent moisture condensing on the foliage 
and berries, and the latter, instead of being 
in a moist and chilly condition in the early 
morning, will be warm and drv, and there¬ 
fore not susceptible to injury when the rays 
of the morning sun strike upon them. Ven 
tilation, particularly during thunder weather, 
must be strictly attended to, and guard 
against violent fluctuations of temperature. 
Regarding the use of the front ventilators 
during this period, much depends upon posi¬ 
tion and locality. As a rule, we do not care 
to use them until the berries commence 
colouring unless very hot weather prevails. 
Two years since we witnessed a plentiful 
crop of mildexv in a vinery, whica w r as 
brought about by the opening of the front 
ventilators during the uncertain weather 
which usually prevails in June. If top ven¬ 
tilation is properly attended to, the tempera¬ 
ture can generally be kept down to within 
safe limits; at. any rate, rather than resort 
to the admission of air from the front, we 
would make use pf a slight shade for tjie 
time being.] 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Rust on Grapes. Will you kindly tell me what 
is the matter with the Grapes enclosed in the little 
box? About a fortnight ugo the Grapes had these 
discoloured patches. Since then a secoud skin has 
been formed under the discoloration. The Vine* have 
been heavily manured for the last three years.— 
P. P. T. 

[At first sight we thought the Grapes you 
sent Imd either been scalded or injured in 
some way, but on subjecting them to a closer 
examination we find it to be a rust, as the. 
black patches are easily removed, either with 
the finger-nail or the blade of a pen-knife. 
Further, the skin and flesh beneath the black 
marks are in a perfectly normal condition. 
This kind of rust is generally caused either 
by neglecting to wipe the scissors clean occa¬ 
sionally on the part of the person thinning 
the Grapes, or in allowing the hair of the 
head—particularly if the hair is at all damp 
or greasy —to come into contact with the 
berries. The remedy in either case is plainly 
obvious.] 

Melons without bottom-heat. -Can Melons be 
grown in span roofed house without bottom-heat, if 
strong plants are put in the first week in August? 
There is a 4-inch flow and return all round the 
house, which is 50 feet by 12 feet, with border racli 
side 2 feet from the glass. The house runs due north 
and south. -ENQllRER. 

[Wo can hold out no hopes of your suc¬ 
ceeding in growing Melons without the aid 
of bottom heat so late in the season as 
August. But if the borders or beds on either 
side of the footpath are about 2 feet in depth 
and 3 feet in width, you may, with the as¬ 
sistance of a bed of fermenting material, con¬ 
sisting mainly of old tree leaves, and by 
growing the plants in pots 12 inches to 14 
inches in diameter, succeed in growing a 
good crop of fruit. The pots should be 
stood either on piers of loose brick3 or in¬ 
verted pots of the same size, and the fer¬ 
menting material can then be placed round 
about and up to the rims of the pots. This 
should be made fairly firm, and a 
heap of it should be held in reserve, 
ready mixed, to draw from to make 
good the bed with as it subsides. A 
steady bottom heat of 80 degrees to 85 de¬ 
grees is what you would require, and by this 
you will see that but little fresh manure 
from the stable-yard would be required. 
Stable-manure alone would produce too 
violent a heat, and it would not be lasting. 
Failing leaves, a bed of tanner’s bark or the 
refuse from the tan-yard would be an excel 
lent substitute, as this material generates a 
genial and lasting heat. In either ca3e, 
make up the bed a week or so in advance, 
first placing the pots in position, and do not 
set out the plants until the plunging ther¬ 
mometer indicates the temperature being 
.steady, and registering the above-named 
heat. We may also add that the top heat 
should be from 65 degrees to 70 degrees at 
night, and 75 degrees to 80 degrees ny day, 
so that in dull weather you would have need 
to make full use of flic hot-water-pipes to en¬ 
sure the proper temperatures.] 

Peaches and Nectarines, thinning.— My wall 
fruit-trees show magnificent promise, but I should 
wish to know whether your dictum regarding the 
quantity—one Peach or Nectarine to the square foot 
—applies to " family ** fruit-trees, as, if so, what 
with damaged fruit due to wasps, birds, snails, and 
slugs, one could never anticipate n fair return for 
the trouble and expense of them.—H. N. K. 

[The opinion expressed in the paragraph 
in question as to the quantity of fruit to 
leave on Peach and Nectarine-trees at the 
final thinning is applicable in all cases alike, 
the purpose for which the fruit is ultimately 
required being a secondary matter only. 
One Peach to every square foot of wall or 
trellis covered by each individual tree, and 
the same with regard to Nectarines is both a 
safe and proper number to leave if the tree 
or trees are to be maintained in a healthy 
bearing condition over a long period. If 
you exceed this quantity, all may go well, 
perhaps, for a few seasons, but the inevitable 
result is a breakdown. In some cases light 
cropping has to be resorted to to allow time 
for recuperation, and in others the trees aro 
practically ruined, and beyond recovery. 
Some growers will leave Nectarine# at the 
rate of one fruit to each 9 inches square of 
trellising, but, to compensate for this, cul¬ 
ture in such cases is of the highest order.] 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



Joke 22. 1907 


gaud urn jvg illustrated. 


217 


QARDEN WORK. 

Conservatory.— Coleus have, to some 
extent, lost caste of late years, but good 
specimens may be found at the local shows, 
and they are* useful in the summer, when 
well grown, to fill up the conservatory when 
the other plants are placed outside. I hear 
a good many complaints about the new 
hybrid Tobaccos. Some of my amateur 
friends say they are bright and grow freely, 
but they miss the fragrance of the old white 
N. affinis. A group in the conservatory will 
give a change, and we want as many changes 
as possible. If shifted on into 7-inch pots 
they will develop into large plants and last 
a long time. Well-grown Carnations are use¬ 
ful. We have a lot of two-year-old plants in 
7-inch and 8-inch pots that are now producing 
many flowers. Several years ago we raised a 
lot of seedlings. The seeds came from a good 
source, and possessed the length of stem and 
freedom of growth of the American section. 
About half-ft dozen of the best were selected, 
and these have been increased to a goodly 
number, and are useful both for cutting 
flowers and otherwise. Two or three plants 
of Humea elegans are grown as much for 
the spicy fragrance as graceful flowers. Of 
course, the best place for Humea elegans now 
is outside, but it is also useful inside. There 
is yet time to sow seeds of this plant if any¬ 
one wants a stock of it. Some years ago I 
hail a row of it along the front of a Vine 
border, and the plants seeded and then 
hundreds of seedlings came up the following 
spring. When people fail to raise this plant 
from purchased seed it is because the seeds 
are old. The seeds of this and other things 
which are not common will germinate freely 
under favourable conditions. I have some¬ 
times hail a difficulty in getting bought seeds 
of Primula obconica to grow', but my own 
seeds grow freely when freshly gathered. 
Roses which have finished blooming in the 
conservatory may be plunged outside to save 
watering. The same treatment will suit 
other shrubs which have been forced. 
Browallia Jamesoni is very pretty now. It 
may be planted in a light position against a 
wail or to cover an arch. Where the roof is 
reasonably furnished with creepers no other 
6hade will be required. Leave a little air on 
all night now, and ventilate very freely dur¬ 
ing the day. Water, of course, must be used 
freely. 

8tove. —Most owners of warm houses or a 
6tove grow a few Dendrobiums, Oncidiums, 
and other Orchids. These, if necessary, 
may now Ik? repotted or placed in fresh 
baskets. Most of the Orchids may be re¬ 
freshed by picking out old, exhausted 
material without injuring the roots, filling in 
with fibrous peat and chopped Sphagnum. 
Some of the forwardest plants will do now 
under the shade of the vinery, but one has 
to be careful about introducing plants upon 
which there is red-spider. This change to 
a more airy structure under Vines will have 
a ripening effect, and the plants will produce 
more flowers. Use the sponge with an insec¬ 
ticide for red-spider, and the vaporiser if 
there are thrips. The syringe should be used 
freely in the stove. Allamandas which are 
showing bloom should be neatly trained, so 
as to show the flowers to the best advantage. 

Morth-hOU8e.- This will be a very useful 
structure now in prolonging the blooming 
season. The exhibitor adopts other retard¬ 
ing processes besides the north-house. I 
have seen plants moved to an open shed in a 
north aspect to preserve the flowers for a 
particular date. Canvas houses will be use¬ 
ful now for similar purposes. These can 
generally be constructed by the means at dis¬ 
posal, and may be removed when no longer 
required, or. if left, they will be useful for 
sheltering Chrysanthemums in the autumn 
for a time. It will not be forgotten that 
though plants in shady or cool structures 
may not require so much water, a daily look- 
round must be given, and there is the same 
liability to insect attacks as when grown else¬ 
where.’ 

Melons In frames. —It is just possible the 
linings round the beds may want renewing 
where the heat has deeRfifcd. as. Melon;| must 
have root warmth, esp^cit SO a *jk<|i^ri ke 


the present, when there has been so little 
sunshine. I>o everything possible to keep the 
main leaves healthy. Until the fruits begin 
to ripen there must be plenty of moisture in 
the bed. If the roots are too dry, red-spider 
will soon appear, but do not pour water 
round the main stem, as the best roots are 
not there, and much moisture there may 
bring canker. Lift the fruits above the foli¬ 
age with the nose end towards the north. 
Tne cause of Melons or other fruits crack¬ 
ing is too dry a condition, followed by much 
watering. Keep the growth thin, ventilate 
early in the morning, and increase the venti¬ 
lation when the sun is hot. If carefully man¬ 
aged, Melons should not require shading. 
Sprinkle and close early in the afternoon 
whilst the fruits are swelling. 

Young Vines In pots.— Some growers 
make a specialty of these. To grow canes to 
bear a good crop of fruit and bear forcing 
they must have a light position near the 
glass. A low span-roofed house will suffice 
if they are trained near the glass on each 
side, and the middle of the house can be used 
for other purposes. The plants should now 
have had their final shift into 12 inch pots. 
The loam should be of the very best, and be 
reasonably manured. 

Strawberries for forcing.— The strongest, 
healthiest runners should be sought for and 
be placed on the top of small pots filled with 
rich compost, and be kept in position by 
placing a small stone on the neck, or a peg 
may be used. The first runner is generally 
the strongest and best, and for forcing we 
want the best. Royal Sovereign seems to be 
the favourite forcer at the present time, and 
may be supplemented by President, Sir J. 
Paxton, and Sir C. Napier. 

Tubs in the court-yard.— Foliage plan is 
may bo used freely in tulw, as they are al¬ 
ways dressy and neat. I think there are bet¬ 
ter things than, the Bays, so much used on the 
continent. Euonymu«es are hardier and 
more effective. Green and variegated Boxes 
are also good, and the Japanese Maples are 
easily grown, and give considerable variety 
in colour. Green and Golden Hollies are 
charming in tubs, and are hardy. 

Outdoor garden. —Slugs and snails are 
iving trouble, especially in gardens where 
caps of stones and rubbish generally are 
permitted to accumulate, as they form breed¬ 
ing and sheltering spots for insects of all 
kinds. The old remedies of soot and lime 
will, I think, ultimately give place to other 
things in the shape of powder that will be 
provided by the chemist. I have been using 
vaporite for the destruction of insects which 
inhabit the earth, and I have no doubt there 
arc other tilings that will lie of use in clear¬ 
ing the soil of our enemies. Both lime and 
soot have some value on the land besides tlieir 
use in the destruction of insects, but, when 
used very freely, as they must be when it 
rains every day, the surface becomes close 
and slimy, and soon bakes in the sunshine. 
If there are any signs of disease on the foli¬ 
age of the Madonna Lilies, the first symptom 
should be met with Bordeaux mixture, ap¬ 
plied through the syringe. The same treat¬ 
ment should be given to Hollyhocks, if the 
fungus appears on the under-sides of the 
leaves. Sow Brompton and Intermediate 
Stocks; also Forget me-nots. Wallflowers, 
if sown in good time, will soon be large 
enough to prick out. Late-sown or neglected 
plants seldom do much good. The old double 
yellow Wallflower must be propagated from 
cuttings in a shady border in sandy soil. 
This is not common now. but is met with in 
old fashioned gardens. Erinus alpinus, now 
in flower, makes a bright mass on the rockery. 
The Tree-Lupins may be raised from seeds 
sown now. 

Fruit garden.— In a fairly good fruit sea¬ 
son there is a danger of crippling Peach and 
Apricot-trees by leaving too many fruits on 
them. Apricots will not require so much 
thinning as Peaches, but the trees should be 
gone over again and a few more of the small 
fruits removed. A crop of fruit will be what 
% tree can carry without injury, and this 
varies in the case of different trees. This 
matter must mainly be left to each indi¬ 
vidual, but it is as certain as anything can 
l>e that it does not pay to overcrop. Of 


course, a good deal of help may bo given by 
top-dressing and watering, only do not water 
when the fruits are approaching the ripe 
stage. The earliest Peaches will soon begin 
to put on colour, and all young shoots should 
be nailed or tied to the wall, so that the 
fruits may be exposed to the sunshine. 
Plums should be thinned if the crop is heavy. 
In some gardens the Pears are rather dis¬ 
appointing, but this happens in most seasons. 
Trees which are apparently doing well in the 
way of producing flowers, cast them all off. 
There is more than one cause for this. Pears 
on the Quince require moisture, and if they 
do not get it there are failures to deplore. 
A mulch of manure will be a great help to 
such trees—in fact, all trees on dwarfinc 
stocks. Secure Strawberry runners in good 
time. 

Vegetable garden.— It has been a good 
time for getting out winter greens. .Broccoli, 
especially late kinds, which have to stand 
the winter, must be planted in firm ground, 
and though there is time enough yet, it is 
not of much use to plant such things late. 
If the ground is not ready, prick the plants 
out to get .strong. Thev come in very well 
after Strawberries ; and, of course, in that 
case, the ground will scarcely be cleared 
before July. I have had excellent late 
Broccoli after Strawberries, merely chopping 
the Strawberries up with a spade, burning 
the rubbish, and spreading the ashes on the 
surface, making holes with a crowbar, and 
watering the plants in. Celery, including 
the Turnip-rooted variety, may now be plan¬ 
ted as fast as land becomes vacant. Leeks 
also should have good culture and be well 
nourished. Transplanted Onions must be 
kept free from weeds and the surface broken 
up occasionally. There will be a good deal 
of surface-stirring to do among the crops, as 
the frequent heavy rains will make the sur¬ 
face hard. In many eases the fork will be 
a better tool to use than the hoe, especially 
among late Potatoes and Pens. Beet will 
transplant now. This has been a good time 
for thinning young vegetables, as it can be 
done without disturbing the plants left. Row 
successional crops of French Beans, and Tur¬ 
nips may be sown freely now. 

E. Hobday. 

THE COMING WEEK’S WORK. 

Extracts from a Garden Diary. 

J une S^th .—Ceased cutting Asparagus 
generally. This will not prevent us cutting a 
dish from the strong plants, if much desired. 
A light top-dressing of nitrate of soda will 
be given soon. The stems of early Cabbages 
which have been cut have been removed, as 
they were planted thick, but later planls 
which have more room will be left to pro¬ 
duce sprouts. Privet and other fast growing 
hedge plants have been gone over with the 
shears. Hedge bottoms are kept free from 
weeds and rubbish, which harbour slugs and 
snails. 

June 2f»th .—Topped Longpod and Broad 
Windsor Beans to remove dolphin-flies. By 
cutting down the plants as soon as the Beans 
have been gathered we have had a second 
crop from the same plants. A top-dressing 
of manure will be given. In this wav they 
often do better than those planted now, and 
it is of no use planting Broad Beans after 
this date. We have sown several rows of 
second early Peas. Shall sow no more late 
Marrows this season, but a go'od second crop 
is often obtained if all pods of the first crop 
are gathered green. This refers to Marrow 
Peas, Ne Plus Ultra, and the British Queen 
type. 

June 2C,th.— Clematises and other climbers 
on walls have been gone over, and the neces¬ 
sary training done. Large breadths of winter 
greens and Cauliflower have been planted. 
A mulch has been used freely among Peas, 
Cauliflowers, and Lettuces. Finished thin¬ 
ning root crops. Made a large sowing of 
Turnips. Celery is going out as land becomes 
vacant. The manure has been worked into 
compost and well blended with the soil in the 
trenches. 

June 27th.— Pricked off seedling hardy 
plants in nursery rows. Sowed Intermediate 
Stocks thinly outside and Forget me nets in 
a shady border. Sowed choice hardy 




218 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


June 22, 1907 


Primulas in boxes in cold frames. Looked 
over Carnations and adjusted the ties. This 
is dpne often to prevent breakages. Looked 
over Tomatoes to remove side shoots. In 
this respect weekly attention is given. Vines 
on south walls are thinned and the shoots 
left, tied in and stopped at one leaf beyond 
bunch. 

June 28th.— Finished potting Chrysanthe¬ 
mums, except a few late plants that will be 
grown in smaller pots to produce one flower 
only. Sowed more Endives and Lettuces, 
ami a small bed of Chervil and Rampion. 
Herbs are cut for drying just before they 
come into bloom. Shifted on Achimenes for 
late blooming. Pricked off Aralia seedlings 
from boxes. Made a further sowing of 
Cinerarias for lute blooming. Early plants 
are pricked off. 

JunrJtfHh.- Now that the last of the bed¬ 
ding plants are out the frames left vacant will 
be filled with late Melons on hot-beds, To¬ 
matoes, etc. The beds are now being got 
•ready. Every minute wo can spare from 
other important work is given up to weeding 
and hoeing. Standard Briers intended for 
budding have had the growths thinned, leav¬ 
ing about three well placed shoots to receive 
the buds at the right, time. Shifted on a lot 
of Asparagus seedlings and filled several 
baskets with the strongest plants. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

Questions.— Queries and answers are inserted in 
Gari>knino free of charge if correspondents follow these 
rules: All communications should be clearly and concisely 
written on one side of the paper only, ami addressed to 
the Editor of Gardksino, 17, Fumi ml-street, I I o! bom, 
London, K. C. Letters on business should be sent to the 
Pdblisiikr. The name and address of the sender are. 
required in addition to any designation he may desire to 
be used in the paper. When rriore than one query is sent, 
each shouhl be on a sejxiratc piece of paper, and not more 
than three, queries should be sent at a time. Correspon¬ 
dents should bear in mind that, as Gardening has to be 
sent to press some time in advance, of date, queries cannot 
always be replied to in the issue immediately following 
the receipt of their communication. We do not reply to 
queries by post. 

Naming: fruit.— Headers who desire our help in 
naming fruit shoulil hear in mind (hat several specimens 
in different stages of colour and size of the same kind 
greatly assist in its determination. We have received from 
several correspondents single specimens of fruits for 
naming, these in many cases being unripe and other¬ 
wise poor. The differences between varieties of fruits are 
in many eases so trifling that it is necessary that three 
specimens of each kiiid should be sent We can undertake 
to name only four varieties at a time, and these only when 
the above directions are observed. 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

Destroying wild Convolvulus (IF. M .).—The 
only way to destroy this—a specimen of which you 
send—will be to keep the tops cut oil with a hoe im¬ 
mediately they make their appearance. Indeed, if 
the ground is kept constantly hoed the shoots will 
not have a chance of appearing above ground, and 
the roots will die from want of that support which 
they can only obtain from leaves and shoots. 

Pruning Moss Roses (Ryecrnft ).—Moss Roses 
require hut very little pruning, and shouhl never he 
cut hard back. With the exception of cutting out. 
dead wood and shortening back straggling shoots, 
the less pruning they have the better. You ought 
to encourage growth by mulching the plants with 
some good cow-manure, if you can get it, at the same 
time cutting out any of the old and exhausted wood. 

Lupins failing (Agnes Thomson and Coniston 
Hill ).—Lupins take a great deal out of the soil, and, 
no doubt, tlie ground is the poorer owing to the Elm- 
trees growing near: It is more than likely that poor¬ 
ness of soil and drought are the causes of the 
failure. Try what a good mulch of rotten manure 
will do, and if the weather is dry give frequent, 
soaking* of water to wash the strength of the manure 
into the soil. We should advise you to move the 
plants to a more open position. 

Lilium giganteum (Wilts ).—The lmlb of Lilium 
giganteum dies after it has flowered, usually leaving 
among the roots two or three more bulblet«. which 
take from three to four years to attain floweri. g si/e. 
Therefore, if a permanent display is required, several 
bulbs of different sizes should be • procured and 
planted at. the same time, so that one or more will 
bloom each season. You ought to have replanted 
the young bulblets in fresh soil, so as to encourage 
vigorous growth. 

To soften hard water (Clydesdale).-Common 
washing soda, used at the rate of J lb. to 36 gallons 
of water, previously dissolving the soda in hot water, 
softens it if allowed to stand twenty-four hours, and 
often acts as a stimulant to the plants. Water is 
easily softened in this way by the aid of two ordinary 
petroleum-casks, first burning the inside of each to 
remove taint of the cil. The sediment which sinks 
to the bottom ought not to be used. Where a larger 
quantity is required, Anticalcaire, commonly called 
milk of lime, gives the least trouble in preparation; 
1 lb. will be sufficient for 250 gallons of water. All 
that is required is to dfraTvfe tljc powder ih the bulk 
of watijr by stirriue it well wnV 1 1 ^ ill be 


precipitated to the bottom of the tank and the water 
rendered soft. Even if lime in excess be added to 
chalk-water, the water becomes turbid, and the 
carbonate of lime, formerly held in solution, is pre¬ 
cipitated, rendering the whole soft. In this way 
ordinary quick lime is valuable as a softening agent. 
Water that is hard is nil the better if exposed as 
much as possible to the full blaze of the sun. 

Propagating Auriculas and Primroses (M. P. 
L. £.).—lhe best time to propagate these plants by 
division or removal of side shoots or suckers is during 
the early summer—May or June—just when new roots 
are being formed. With respect to Primroses, double 
or single, such as are grown in gardens, the best plan 
is to lift the plants bodily, to divide them carefully 
with a knife, keeping one or two leaf-crowns to por¬ 
tions of roots, then either putting these portions 
singly into small pots or planting them on a cool, 
shady border, where, kept watered, they will make 
good growth during the summer. Wijh Auriculas, 
it is not. needful to disturb tlie entire plants. Side 
shoots come sparingly, and those can be severed with 
a sharp knife, with a piece of root, and he put singly 
into small pots, then keep close in a eold, well- 
shaded frame for a week or two, until new roots are 
made. The old plants, if needing a shift, may well 
be repotted at the same time. 

FRUIT. 

Thinning Peaches (llyecroft).— It is quite time 
your Peaches were thinned, although it is not always 
advisable to do this too early. When, however, the 
fruits set very thickly, as they seem to have done 
with you, a moderate reduction should bo made as 
soon as they arc set and swelling, continuing this 
periodically. By doing it in this way the work is 
simplified, because it is then easy to retain the better 
fruits from the lend they always take. If we tell 
you that one fruit, to each square foot of tree surface 
is sufficient for a crop, you will then the more 
readily understand the amount of thinning necessary. 
Certainly two fruits ought never to be left on one 
branch. From 9 inches to 1 foot apart will give you 
the desired crop, if this is uniform over the whole 
tree. If you overcrop the tree—more especially as in 
your ease a young one—the resources of the tree 
are overtaxed, and the result is found in the barren¬ 
ness of the succeeding summer. 

VEGETABLES. 

Checking the Onion maggot <J. J. T.).—We 
have not previously heard borax recommended as a 
destructive agent for the Onion maggot. Still, if it 
has proved effective in Yorkshire, use it by all means. 
Soot dustings are also often advised, but we prefer 
to dissolve a peck of fresh soot in 6 gallons of 
water, and, when clear, water the Onions with 
that as it is destruct ive to insect life. The chief use 
advised for parnflln is to mix it with sawdust, then 
to sprinkle it along between the Onion rows, in the 
hope that its smell will keep the fly away. So soon 
as the Onion plants become hard and strong the 
maggot can do them no harm. 


SHORT REPLIES. 

J. C. Wood . —1. Judging from the piece of growth 
you send, the bushes are very weak and evidently not 
in a thriving condition. You should get a gardener 
in your neighbourhood to look at them. The prun¬ 
ing is, we fear, at fault. 2, The Potato haulm has 
evidently been frosted, if we can judge from the 

piece you send us.- Cumbriana .—Some of the plants 

in the house in which the Hydrangeas are have been 
attacked by green-fly, and they, too, evidently are. 
Syringe any plants on which you find the green-fly 
with Quassia extract and soft-soap, or fumigate the 
house with the XL All compound, following the 

directions sent with the material.-Am.—The 

leaves of the Peaches and Nectarines, specimens of 
which you send, are affected w ith “ blister.” See 
reply to " F. L. C'.,” in our issue of June 16th, 

p. 15>0.-V. L. A.— Your Roses have been attacked 

by Orange fungus. See reply to " Malta,” re 
" Orange fungus on Roses," in our issue of June 15th, 

p. 202.- M. A. II.—We have never tried the manure 

you refer to, and are, therefore, unable to say any¬ 
thing as to its composition or value.- Amateur.— 

Your query is so very vague that we fail to grasp 
what you want. Far better consult a carpenter in 
your neighbourhood. Certainly have glass sides rest¬ 
ing on brickwork.- John hunt .—We do not at nil 

wonder at the collapse of your Cucumbers, seeing 
how you overcrop them. No plants, however well 
treated, can stand the strain you are imposing on 

them. The remedy is in your own hands.- E. Kaye. 

—We do not conduct post-mortem examinations. If 
at any time you want this done, we would advise 
you to send the fowl to Mr. John Freeman, M.P.8., 
City-road Corner, Birmingham, who carries out 
post-mortem examinations for Farm and Home (pub¬ 
lished at this office) at a nominal charge of Is. The 

fowl must bo sent direct to him witli the fee.- 

Ignorance .—Your best plan will be to get a copy of 
"The English Flower Garden." in which the whole 
question of hardy plants and their culture is dealt 
with, lists of suitable plants and also illustrations 
of borders being given. You can do nothing now in 

the way of planting until the autumn.- Amateur.— 

1, We fear you can do lit tie in the potting-shed in 
the way of plant-growing. Had it had a glass roof, 
then you could have so used it. 2. What plants have 
you in the greenhouse? Y'es; if the Heliotropes are 
small, you can repot them and grow them on. 3, 
See article on Cinerarias, in our issue of June 15th, 
p. 200. The same treatment answers for Calceo¬ 
larias.- K. A. T.— 1, No hardy climber, saving the 

plants you mention. 2, If you wish to keep the 
Maples small, the only way is to cut them in. Far 
better, however, let them grow- freely, and thus de¬ 
velop their natural grace and beauty. If you want 
Japanese dwarf-trained trees, you had better pur¬ 
chase them.-.Shrub.—Please read our rules as to 

sending name, and also ns to putting queries on 
separate pieces of paper, both of which rules you 


quite ignore.- Resident.—So; we fear that in your 

district you would fail to ripen the fruits. If you 
did, then we think that the flavour, so late in the 
season, would be very poor, unless the autumn was 

distinctly favourable.- J. M. Eraser.—See reply to 

“ C. R.,” re "Moss in lawn,” in our issue of 
April 20th, of this year, p. 100. A copy can be had 

from the publisher, post free, for l^d.- Average.— 

You should get a copy of the latest edition of “ The 
English Flower Garden,” und read the chapter on 
shrubs therein. A list of shrubs hardy in British 

gurdens accompanies the article.- B. E. M.~ The. 

cause of the curled leaves is a small grub, several 
specimens of which we found in the leaves you send. 
The only remedy is to hunt for them and crush 

them.- Mrs. E. Williams.— 1, Your Madonna Lilies 

have been attacked by the disease that has proved 
so destructive in gardens of recent years. See reply 
to Miss Shaw re "Orange Lilies failing,” in our issue 
of June 15th, p. 203. 2 , Evidently the Rose is dry 
at the roots, or it may be that it has been attacked 
by canker. 3, Kindly say what Iris you mean. In 
sending queries, please read our rules as to putting 
each query on a separate sheet of paper and writing 
on one side only. B .—The fly is the cause of 

all the trouble, and, judging from the specimens sent, 
the plants are in a very bud condition. 2, We have 
given the prescription for making Bordeaux mixture 

frequently in these pages.- Riduna .—The leaf you 

send has been attacked by red-spider and also thrip. 
Tlic house in which the plant is growing is evi¬ 
dently very dry or you are keeping the plants too dry 

at the roots. - Kathleen Dillon. — There are 

thousands of plants with foliage like that you send 
us, and, unless you can let us have a flower or a 
bulb, it is quite impossible to say what the plant to 

which you refer is.-IF. M. Crowfoot .—Kindly say 

what the leaf you send is? As far ns we can judge, 
it is a leaf of the Madonna Lily, which has been 
attacked by the fungus which has proved so destruc¬ 
tive of recent years. —7f. M .—See reply to l)r. F. S. 
Arnold re “ Pear-gnat midge,” in this issue, p. 21u. 


NAMES OF PLANTS AND FRUITS. 


Names of plants — E. Howard.— Hoelbellia (syn. 

Stauntonia) latifolia.-0. S.— Allium sp.; please 

send when in full bloom.- Redhill.— We must have 

better specimens to be able to name correctly.- 

Castle Douglas.— All forms of the common Blue Bell 
(Seilla nutans), of which there are now a great many 

varieties.- M. E. Mum ford. — Succulent plant, 

Kalosanthes coecinea; the other is Cytisus raee- 
mosus; the third is a Gasteria, a genus allied to the 
Aloe. When sending specimens in future, please 

affix a number to each one.- Mrs (Irene Barry.— 

Fair Maids of France (Ranunculus aconitifolius fl.-pl.). 

- Mrs. Oliver.— Pyrus lobata (syns. Mespilue Smithi 

and Crataegus grandiflora).-VF. II. M.—l, Please 

send better specimen; 2, The Masterwort (Astrantia 

major); 3, Hemeroeallis Hava; 4. Iris aibirica.- 

Ooloo.— 1, Iris Bibirica var. orientnlis; 2. Geranium 

maerorrhizon.- A. C. Riverhcad.— Fuchsia pro- 

curnbens.- K. N. D.— Specimen far too poor to 

name.- J. E. Kelsall.— Possibly Saxifraga hyp- 

noides; we cannot be certain from such a scrap.- 

Rockery.—I, Phlox frondosa; 2, No specimen; 3, 
Phlox amcena: 4, Saxifraga muscoides atropurpurea; 

5. Saxifraga Sternbergi; 6, Saxifraga trifurcata.- 

//. L. Adand Hoyt.— Museari comosum rnonstrosum. 

- A. Donovan.— Please send better specimens, and 

also read our rules as to numbering each one so 

that they can be identified by you.- G. 0. Cooke.— 

Olearia stellulata (syn. O. Gunniana). — Rev. Henry 
Justice—l, Lonicera tatariea; 2, Barbarea vulgaris; 
3, Carcx sp.; 4. Stellaria sp.; please send complete 

specimen.- Saxum. — 1, Spirrea filipemlula; 2, 

Weigela rosea; 3, Saxifraga sp.; please send in 
bloom.—.4. S.— 1, Veronica Teuerium var. pros¬ 

trata; 2, The Marsh Valerian (Valeriana dioica): 3. 
Rock Rose (Heliaiithemum vulgare var.); 4, Each- 

flcholtzia croeea.- Rev. Glynn Grylls.—' The Bog 

Bean (Menyanthea trifoliatn), as far as we can judge 

from the crushed specimen you send us.- J. Arkle. 

— 1 , The soft Prickly Shield Fern (Polystichum an- 
gulare); 2 and 3, Woodwnrdia radieans: should pre¬ 
fer to see fertile fronds of No. 3; 4, Sweet Cicely 

(Myrrhis odorata).- Mrs. Court. Erigeron philadel- 

phicus. 


Book received. “ Rock and Alpine Gardening,” 
by II. Hemsley. Of the author, H. Hemsley, Crawley, 
Sussex, and all l>ooksellcr9. 


Royal Horticultural Society Holland House 

Show.—Wo are asked to state that the Dowager 
Countess of Ilchester has kindly given permission for 
the Royal Horticultural Society to hold its summer 
show, on July 9th and lfitli, in 1 lie beautiful grounds 
of Holland Park, Kensington. 


United Horticultural Benefit and Provi¬ 
dent Society. The monthly committee meet 
ing of this society was held at the Royal 
Horticultural Hall, Vinoent-equare, West¬ 
minster, on Monday evening, June 10th. 
Mr. Charles H. Curtis presided. Five new 
members were elected, making a total of 
forty three this year, so far. The stocks of 
the society have been duly transferred from 
the old to the new trustees. A vote of sym¬ 
pathy and condolence was passed to the 
widow and family of the late Mr. George 
Wheeler, who was one of the original mem¬ 
bers of the society, and had held the office of 
t rustee for thirty one years, and from .which 
he' had jhst IretinedL 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


No. 1,477.— Vox. XXIX. 


Founded by W. Robinson, Author of “ The English Flower Garden.' 


JUNE 29, 1907. 


INDEX. 


AUaiuan Jas 

223 

Apples, own-rooted 

220 

Apple-tree in bad health 

220 

Aquaria 

231 

Aspidistra in bad con- 


dition 

231 



blooming 

231 

Beech blight, the 

224 

Bees. 

231 

Begonias out-of-doors .. 

226 

Birds . 

231 

Books . 

231 

Broccoli, late, on north 


Ixirders .. 

228 

Cabbages, autumn and 


spring. 

228 

Celery, late 

228 

Chernes, Morel lo. failing 

220 


Chimonanthtia fragrana 
from seeds .. ..220 

Chrysanthemums .. 227 
Chrysanthemums in 
their summer quarters 227 
Chrysanthemums to 
develop second crown- 

buds .227 

Conservatory .. .. 230 

Crab Apple (Pyrus 
coronaria), American, 

the .229 

Cyclamens, treatment 

of.224 

Erica ventricosa .. 223 

Fruit . 219 

Fruit crops .. .. 219 

Fruit garden .. 230 

Fruit-trees 220 


Carden diary, m tracts 

from a.230 

Garden |>cstB and friends 224 
Garden, rock, and pond 22G 
Garden work ..230 

Grapes, scalding in .. 232 
House, in the .. .. 230 

Indoor plants .. .. 223 

Iris (Iris tuberosa), the 
Snake 's-head .. 226 

Lmlia - Cattleya Myra 
(Burford variety) .. 227 
Law and custom.. .. 231 

Lawn, worms in .. ., 231 

Lily of the Valley, sum¬ 
mer treatment of .. 226 
Lotus peliorrhynchus .. 224 
Magnolias, increasing .. 232 
Melons, canker in .. 220 


Orchidft.227 

Outdoor garden .. 230 
Outdoor plants.. .. 225 

Paionies. herbaceous .. 225 
Pa;onles not flowering.. 231 
Pansies,the best Tufted, 
for the flower garden 226 
Pansies, Tufted, hoeing 
between the .. .. 225 

Paulownia iiuperialis .. 229 
Peats failing ..232 

Peas, Sweet, in winter 224 
Plants and flowers .. 221 
Plants for furnishing .. 221 
Plants in pots, boxes, 
etc., mulching.. .. 224 

Plants, twitting .. 232 

Plants, some winter- 
flowering .. .. 230 


Plants, window, for 

autumn.224 

Primula Sieboldi .. 226 
Hoorn and window .. 224 
Rosa Hugonis .. 221 

Rosa sinica Anemone .. 221 
Rose Aachen brodel, 
Polyantha .. .. 222 

Rose, Mar6chal Niel, 
stocks for .. .. 222 

Rose Mohrenkcenig .. 222 
Rose Richmond .. .. 221 

Roses .221 

Roses worth growing, 
some old .. .. 222 

Salvia splcndeus .. 224 
Sinilax ornatus .. .. 231 

Hpinuas and Deutzias .. 231 
Stove .230 


j SirawberTy plants blind 520 
Strawberries, forced, 

failing.220 

Strawberries, layering 
and trotting .. .. 219 

Tomatoes failing to set 228 
Tomatoes, injury to .. 232 
Trees and shrubs .. 229 
Vegetable garden .. 230 

Vegetables .. ..228 

Vegetables, quality of.. 228 
Verbenas in pots .. 223 
Vine failing .. .. 232 

Vineries, in the .. .. 230 

Vines, air-roots on .. 232 
Vine-weevil, the black.. 224 
Week's work, the 

i coming.230 

Wist aria, the white .. 229 


FRUIT, 

FRUIT CROPS. 

It is not now too early to take stock of our 
season’s fruit prospects. In few years has 
there been greater promise, for on all trees 
bloom was abundant and fine. But, so far 
as evidence is now’ afforded, both from per 
sonal observation and from reports, the fruit 
crop will be partial, and by no means com¬ 
mensurate with the bloom promise. In some 
directions bitterly cold winds, in others frost, 
in others insect attacks are charged with the 
thinness of crops now found in so many 
places, and no doubt all these things were 
helpful in producing the result. Where trees 
escaped these troubles, the get, generally, is 
good, and in such places, no doubt, the pros¬ 
pect is satisfactory. Generally our best fruit 
crops will be found, as usual, to be those 
kinds which are the least enduring. Straw¬ 
berries give every promise—especially after 
such abundant rains—of giving a record crop. 
Still, because of the comparative lack of 
warmth and sunshine materially hindering 
perfect fertilisation, many otherwise fine 
fruits will, no doubt, be unshapely. If rain¬ 
storms and low’ temperature prevail, then 
there is danger that mildew may be very 
prevalent. One of the troubles which arises 
from straw mulching in a moist season is that 
the straw, by retaining moisture and keeping 
the fruits damp, greatly conduces .to the 
growth of mildew on the fruits. Raspberries 
and Blackberries, both soft and fugitive 
fruits, are more dependent on the growths 
of the preceding season, and their being well 
ripened, than on the weather of the fruiting 
year. Both are fruits of the most reliable 
kind, and seldom fail to crop freely. They 
will do so abundantly this year. Gooseberries 
have been so far a heavy crop. These are 
referred to in the past tense, because vast 
quantities of bernea have already been 
gathered. Very happily is it the rule thus 
to gather and consume green Goosel>errics, 
as the early relief thus afforded to the hushes 
enables them to crop bo abundantly every 
year. Fruit growers have few better or more 
reliable friends than is the Gooseberry. It 
seems odd to bear or read of the depredations 
of the caterpillar amongst the hushes now 
that the remedy found in dustings of Helle¬ 
bore powder is 60 well known. Still, there 
are plenty of people who prefer to sit by and 
regard the caterpillar as the inevitable plague 
rather than fight it with 6ome simple and 
efficient remedy. Red Currants will be most 
abundant. These, however, like Goose¬ 
berries, once they are ripe soon decay, un¬ 
less they are specially protected from weather 
and birds. Black Currants will be plentiful, 
where there is no big bud, but the normal 
condition of 60 many bushes seems to be that 
big bud is more abundant than are healthy 
growth and fruit. One of the most unthank¬ 
ful duties thrust upon anyone seems to be 
that of advising Black Currant growers what 
to do to check the dcpfechttiQne of^J^Qur- 

Digitiz€ 




rant mite. The so-called Gooseberry mildew 
has crented a sort of scare, for which we 
have to thank one or two interested scien¬ 
tists, but the Black Currant mite is a hundred 
times greater evil than ever the Gooseberry 
mildew will be, yet it excites little interest. 

That there should be generally a thin crop 
of both Apples and Pears- for such is the 
case in many directions—will be, no doubt, 
ascribed to the long spell of cold winds, with 
frosts, which prevailed in April and May, 
when the trees were in bloom, yet there is the 
interesting fact that in the same garden or 
orchard some trees will have heavy crops and 
others, though loaded with bloom, practically 
have none. That a low temperature could 
not be the primary cause in all eases is cer¬ 
tain, as the temperature was as low for one 
tree as for another. Possibly, and probably, 
some trees now thinly fruited had good crops 
Inst year, but Pears were very thin all round 
last year, hence that cause could not have 
operated in every case. That earliness or 
lateness to bloom affected the trees also is 
not of moment, seeing that all trees had to 
feel the same low temperature. But it has 
long been recognised that trees, literally gar¬ 
lands of bloom, very commonly fail to set 
fruit freely, simply because the production 
of such masses of bloom is so exhausting. 
Plums were equally garlands of flower, yet 
the bloom seems to have set indifferently, as 
the crop promises to be a thin one after all. 
It does seem as if we shall have to wait yet 
patiently for that season which shall be 
I described as a record fruit year. 

A. D. 


LAYERING AND POTTING STRAW¬ 
BERRIES. 

There are several plane of preparing plants 
for forcing, all of which find a certain num¬ 
ber of advocates, and, no doubt, with the 
best of results in each case. The plan most 
generally adopted is to layer the best or first 
plant on each strong runner, as early as it 
can be done without damaging the crop, inf® 
3-inch pots, any good loamy soil answering 
the purpose and no drainage being required. 
The pots have to be kept well supplied with 
water, and, when fairly well filled with roots, 
the plants are detached from their parents 
and removed to a convenient spot—usually in 
the frame ground. Before they become badly 
root-bound, the requisite number arc selected 
and shifted into the fruiting pots, these either 
being 5-inch, 6-inch, or 7-inch sizes, prefer¬ 
ence being given to the two last. The fruit¬ 
ing pots must be well drained, and a sprink¬ 
ling of I-inch bones may, with advantage, be 
added to the drainage. A compost consisting 
of three parts turfy loam to one of well-de¬ 
cayed cow or farmyard manure is suitable, 
and if the loam is fibreless, a quantity of leaf- 
soil will improve the mixture. Crushed bones 
used at the rate of not less than a 6 inch 
potful to a bushel of soil, prove most bene¬ 
ficial; the roots cling to them, and do not., 
therefore, so quickly become massed among 


the drainage. The soil is l**nt used in a 
moderately moist state, and must lie heavily 
rammed about the roots of the young plants. 
Each sort is kept apart, and the whole are 
eventually stood in beds in a sunny spot on a 
layer of ashes, and kept carefully supplied 
with water. Another very simple, yet good, 
plan is to allow the requisite number of 
rooted runners to remain among the rows of 
fruiting plant* till about the end of July, 
when, after rereiving a good soaking of water, 
they can be lifted with a little soil about the 
roots, and either put into the fruiting pots 
or planted where they are to fruit. Plants 
thus treated are more certain to become 
quickly re-established than are those turned 
out of small pots, and which are frequently 
badly root-bound. A few there are who de¬ 
tach the }oung plants before they havo 
formed many roots, dibbling them into 
fine good soil in frames about 4 inches apart 
each way. They are kept rather close, lightly 
shaded, and uniformly moist till well estab¬ 
lished, when they are fully exposed and 
eventually transferred to the fruiting pots 
before they become crowded. I have seen 
this method answer remarkably well, and I 
have also known of case* where it failed con¬ 
spicuously, injudicious shading being the 
most probable cause of failure. 

The plan of layering direct into the fruit¬ 
ing pots is the most economical method of 
securing a good stock of plants. It has much 
to recommend it, and only- one drawback— 
viz., the difficulty of keeping worms out of the 
pots. At the same time, this difficulty can 
be obviated by a free use of soot over a little 
strawy manure, placed pn the drainage, and, 
if they penetrate through this, clear lime- 
water, given when the; plants are removed 
from the rows of parent Strawberries, soon 
brings the worms to the surface, when they 
can be collected and destroyed. Layering 
into the fruiting pots takes up more time 
than it does to layer into small pots; but 
then there is no second potting to be done ; 
and, besides, there is the greater certainty 
of the soil being more thoroughly rammed, 
with the consequent more even occupation of 
it by the roots. Small pots, again, are not 
easily kept properly supplied with water; 
but the large ones, though requiring more of 
it at a time, do not so quickly dry up in hot 
weather. It is always well, if possible, to 
have a few rows of plants, principally for pro¬ 
viding runners, conveniently near the paths 
and water tanks, thus rendering watering an 
easy matter without necessitating much heavy 
trampling about the beds—another objection 
urged against this method by those who do 
not approve of it. The pots, when drained 
and firmly filled with compost, as above de¬ 
scribed, are carried to where the layering is 
to be done, and after being stood as level as 
possible, the young plants are layered. 
Medium-sized plants are preferred; these 
are fixed in the centre of the pots with pebbles 
or any kind of stones in preference to pegs, 
the stones serving to preserve the moisture 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


















220 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Junk 20, t907 


about the base of the young plants. At no 
time are the plants allowed to become very 
dry at the roots, and equally as much care 
is taken not to overwater them, especially at 
the outset, as this quickly renders the mass 
of soil unfit for the plants to root in. Directly 
the plants are well rooted they are separated 
from the old plants, as the latter, if long con¬ 
nected with their offspring, will rob them of 
their vigour, especially during dry weather. 
All that remains to be done is to transfer the 
whole of the plants to a good open spot and 
otherwise treat them as recommended in the 
case of the shifted plants. Some growers say 
the plan of layering direct into the fruiting 
pots is faulty, but I never knew a failure to 
occur—at any rate, where the system received 
a fair trial. I have practised it during many 
years, and others of my acquaintance much 
longer, with the best of results. 

F. W. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Forced Strawberries falling.— Please say beat 
kind of Strawberries for forcing? Do you recom¬ 
mend St. Antoine dc Padoite? I enclose a rough 
sketch lo show the shelves on which I forced Straw¬ 
berries this year. It is a vinery. On the top shelf 
they succeeded very well; on the middle shelf they 
were poor; on the lower shelf they were u failure. 
Can you explain the different results? 1 may men¬ 
tion the top shelf was all Royal Sovereign ; t he middle, 
half Royal Sovereign, half President; the lower. 
President, 'i he only ventilation was near the top 
shelf. — Evn.K v. 

[It in r.c; :v>:ary, when forcing Strawber¬ 
ries, t!iit the plants, when coming into 
flower, should have a circulation of warm air 
playing ar..G!:g the plants whenever Hie 
weather permits—in fact, a chink left on 
during the night, when mild, is most benefi¬ 
cial. The tiling speaks for itself, as these 
on the top shelf were satisfactory, the other 
two more or less, if not nn entire, failure. 
Then, again, early Strawberries, flowering, 
say, towards the end of February and 
early March, need pollination—that" is, a 
camel-hair brush or something of that 
nature brought into contact with each indi¬ 
vidual flower as it opens—about midday 
being the most suitable time, as then the 
pollen is, cr should be, perfectly dry. The 
kinds you mention are suitable for forcing, 
especially Royal Sovereign. President is not 
an early variety, and does not set nearly so 
well as the former under glass. March is 
soon enough to introduce the President, and 
then, if possible, very little fire heat should 
be given, as the quieter the plants are 
brought along, the better. St. Antoine de 
Padoue is an excellent variety for autumn 
work, but we would not care to recommend 
it for very early work. Runners of the last- 
named variety layered as soon as procur¬ 
able, and potted up similar to other varie¬ 
ties mentioned in these notes, would fruit 
well towards October and early November, 
but a light position near the glass is neces¬ 
sary to ripen the fruit, which, of course, 
would be set before placing under glass. 
Leader is a capital one for June work, sets 
very freely, and the fruit swells up to a good 
Bize; this, in conjunction with President, and 
not started into growth until early March, 
would form a good succession to the Royal 
Sovereign. The layers of these ought to be 
got towards the end of the month, pegging 
each into a 2£-inch pot of loamv soil, 
keeping well supplied with water, and mov¬ 
ing into their fruiting pots, fij-inch and 
6 -inch respectively, before they get any 
check.] 

Morello Cherries failing.— In the autumn of 
1901 I planted two fan-shaped Morello Cherry-trees 
against a high wall facing south-east, well protected 
from north. This spring they were a mass of blos¬ 
som, and now they look miserable. They appear to 
me to be rotting at t he joints, and pieces of the 
stems go brown and die off. The fruit does not set, 
but drops off from the decayed joints. The leaves 
droop, and the whole tree looks sick, although a few 
of the Cherries appear to have set, but on branches 
not decayed. 1 enclose one of the joints and stems. 
Can you tell me what is the reason? Is the ground 
too damp? Is there any special treatment this 
Cherry requires? 1 thought it was hardy. I planted 
other two Cherries at the same time on south-west 
walls, and they are healthy and bear a few fruit this 
year. I mean eating Cherries—nn Early Rivers and 
Knight's Early Black. 1 am very disappointed with 
the Morellos.—D umpries. 

[So far as we can judge from the two or 
three poor specimens of young wood you send 
as an aid to investigation, we think that 

igitiWGo( ’gle 


either gumming or canker has killed the 
young shoots of your Morello Cherries, but 
as to the cause we are unable to say. Had 
you sent a portion of the older wood with 
the young shoots attached, we should have 
been able to have given you a more definite 
reply. The Morello is very hardy, yet, see¬ 
ing you live so far north, it is just possible 
that the young growths were injured by frost 
at the base, which would cause canker to set 
in, and then the death of each shoot so 
affected would inevitably follow. Gumming 
would also commence or break out where the 
young shoots originate on the older wood, 
and the former would then gradually die off. 
Which ever of the two diseases it may be, the 
remedy is to cut the branches back to a point 
where they are free from the complaint, and 
this will induce new growth being put forth. 
Then lift and replant the trees in the autumn, 
putting new compost about the roots if, after 
reading the few following queries, you deem 
it necessary. Did you, when planting, add 
any calcareous matter to the soil, because 
this is essential for Cherries, unless it should 
happen that lime is naturally present in the 
soil. Again, docs the soil consist of the ordi¬ 
nary staple, or did you provide fresh com¬ 
post and put rank manure in it for these two 
particular trees, because it has occurred to 
us that there may be some constituent pre- 
suit which has been exerting a harmful in¬ 
fluence on the root system, especially as your 
other newly planted trees are healthy? Then, 
is the situation damp? And, if so, did you 
endeavour to remedy matters by putting a 
9 inch layer of brickbats and lesser sized 
material on the top in the bottom of the 
holes? We are also suspicious as to whether 
the trees have been pruned, because if they 
have, grow th of a very different character from 
that which you have submitted should have 
been made. If our suspicions are correct, 
the cutting back you will now have to resort 
to to get rid of gumming or canker, os the 
case may be, will amount to much the 6ame 
thing, only it will be done rather late in the 
day, so to speak. You also make mention 
of blossom and fruit, and we would remark, 
in conclusion, that it is the height of folly 
to expect newly-planted trees to fruit the year 
after planting, unless they are extra sized 
trees, and the lifting and transplanting have 
been done with all due care. The first year 
should, under ordinary conditions, be solely 
devoted to getting the tree properly estab¬ 
lished.] 

Strawberry plants blind —In the autumn of 
1995 1 laid down a new Strawberry-bed; ground- 
clay subsoil, with 2 feet good loam on top. This I 
trenched 2 feet 0 inches, and manured. The runners 
were taken from plants in the same garden, that 
had run wild for two years, and were so thick that 
they bore badly. Now, this year, I find that some 
70 per cent, of ray plants are not blossoming—some 
are blind, but some are not. Why? Should I root 
out all the non-blossoming plants this year?— 
R. P. W. 

[Your Strawberry plants are what are 
known as blind. It was a great mistake to 
take runners from such exhausted plants as 
you mention, and we do not wonder at their 
failing to bloom. We should strongly ad¬ 
vise you to throw the whole lot away and ob¬ 
tain strong runners from a good stock. On 
no account use runners from your own plants, 
as such will naturally be blind also. No 
remedy can be suggested for this blindness.] 
Apple-tree in bad health (Bloom).— 
Canker is, we know, apt to affect Cox’s 
Orange Pippin in your locality, but we find 
no trace of this disease on the dead spurs you 
send. Both the leaves and the wood appear 
to us to have succumbed as a result of the 
caterpillar of the pith-moth (Laverna atra) 
having eaten the pith away in the wood im¬ 
mediately behind the spurs. This causes the 
leaves to first drop and then die away, and is, 
in fact, the only indication given that the 
tree is infested with the larvce of the above- 
named moth. On examining the tree the 
wood is generally to be found dead for some 
little distance down the shoot behind where 
the dead leaves and spurs are found, and all 
such pieces of wood should be cut back to a 
point where the wood is sound and living. 
Burn these forthwith, as it will help to lessen 
future attack, for the larvie will be lying 
within these dead shoots. Unfortunately, 
these are the only steps we can advise you 
to take now, as insecticides are of no avail. 


WCj however, strongly recommerid you to 
spray twice with caustic alkali eolation in 
the winter months, the second time just be¬ 
fore the buds begin, to break, as it is near 
about this time when the larva hatches out 
and proceeds to bore its way into the young 
wood of the trees and destroy the pith. 

Fruit trees. —I propose in the autumn to take up 
two old Apple-trees, on high walls facing south, 
well protected from north and east. They appear 
past bearing. I want to plant other trees. Can you 
recommend me a good free-fruiting IMum, Cherry, 
and Damson? The walls are, perhaps, too good for 
a Damson, but you will remember it is north. Pears 
do no good here, and I do not want to plant Apples 
in the same spot again.— Dumfries. 

[A few good Plume are Early Prolific, 
Denniston’s Superb, Jefferson, Prince Engle- 
bert, Pond’s Seedling, Comte d’Atthem’e 
Gage, Golden Drop, and Kirke’s. OF Cherries, 
Early Rivers, Frogmore Early, Bigarreau, 
May Duke, Black Tartarian, The Noble, 
Bigarreau de Sehreken, and Bigarreau Napo¬ 
leon. We have never seen a Damson trained 
on a wall but once, and that was a Farleigh 
Prolific, planted in mistake for a Plum. 
This tree fruited well. If you are anxious to 
have a few trees, we should say plant Brad¬ 
ley’s King or Frogmore Prolific. Be sure and 
dig out every particle of the old roots of the 
Apple trees, and provide some new compost 
and mortar rubbish for both the Cherries and 
Plums.] 

Own-rooted Apples. -Some few years back 
there was a great demand for Apples on their 
own roots, and I tried a great number of 
varieties, with varying success. Some kinds, 
especially the Codlin varieties, rooted freely, 
while others would not root at all. French 
Crab was one of the easiest, and I have a 
good many large trees raised in that way, 
and that keep up the supply of home-grown 
Apples until very late in the spring. As I 
did not find the trees raised in this way were 
so symmetrical, or fit for training as garden 
trees, I have not lately attempted to increase 
my stock by this means. If I did, I fear the 
manner of doing so by means of branches, 
stuck into the soil like Pea-sticks, as referred 
to by “A. D.,” see page 134, would not be 
often successful. I found the only way to 
get good-sized branches to root was to dig 
fairly deep holes, and let the knotty base of 
the branch quite 1 foot or more into the soil, 
when those with rough bark were the first 
to get established; varieties with shiny, clear 
bark very rarely rooted.— Gosport. 

Canker in Melons.— I have invariably no¬ 
ticed that this too well-known malady is more 
prevalent in cold, sunless summers than in 
dry, arid ones, even where great care is taken 
in regard to the supply of atmospheric mois¬ 
ture. Canker is also encouraged by planting 
in too rich soil and by the use of farmyard 
manure, also by planting too thickly and 
allowing an excess of growth to accumulate, 
thus preventing a free circulation of fresh air 
through the house. Doubtless also some 
varieties are more prone to the evil than 
others. One good Melon grower told me that 
lately he had adopted the plan of planting 
near to the hot-water pipes, which had the 
effect of producing a hardened stein .growth 
and of dispersing moisture from the stems, 
which resisted canker. Adding plenty of old 
mortar or lime rubbish to the soil and ram¬ 
ming firmly also produces a canker-resisting 
growth, and much may be done to ward it. off 
by timely thinning out of lateral growths, 
refraining from overhead syringing on cold, 
sunless days and carefully ventilating. A con¬ 
stant watch should be kept, and os soon as 
canker shows itself the affected parts should be 
vigorously rubbed each day with stone lime, 
avoiding also wetting as much as possible. 
This will eventually eat away the disease, and 
the wounds will heal over. An acquaintance 
of mine always placed small pots round the 
stems at planting time, these pots being first 
cut in half lengthways and then tied together 
again. Lime was placed in these, which kept 
canker from the base of the 6tem, that being 
the part where it generally appears first.—J. 


Index to Volume XXVIII.— The binding covers 
(price Is. Gd. each, post free, Is. 9d.) and Index (3d., 
post free, SJdJ for Volume XXVIII. are now ready, 
arid may be lind of all newsagents, or of the Pub¬ 
lisher, post free, 2s. for the two. 



Junk 29, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


221 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

ROSES. 

ROSA SINICA ANEMONE. 

What a valuable* introduction this was! 
Surely nothing has appeared among single 
Roses 60 good a6 this one for a long time. 
Just now (June 5th) rows of it are a mass of 
bloom right out in the open ground, and it 
is this freedom of flowering that makes it eo 
useful. One might have imagined that, com¬ 
ing from Rosa sinica, which is notoriously 
shy blooming, until well established, we 
should have had an equally shy flowering 
variety in the offspring, but the crossing with 


the young ehoote are more numerous than on 
those of Rosa sinica. The earliness would 
enable a pretty effect to be made by planting 
it with Rosa altaica, Rosa hiapida, Rosa 
xanthiua, Carmine Pillar, and single Scotch 
Roses. E. 

Seeing the noble growth of this Rose in Mr. 
Woodall's garden at Nice, I asked how it came 
about, and learnt that the plants were “ worked ’’ 
not on the Briar stock, but on ‘ ‘ indica major. ” So, 
haring plants of the Rose that never made much 
growth, I resolved to try the stock, and had four 
plants in pots sent over from Nice in April . 
They were at once planted out, and in spite of the 
severe spring bloomed well almost ever since , and 
grew like Willows. I never saw such a contrast 
I in growth between plants as between these and 



lio.-a sinica Anemone in Mr. E. H. Woodall’s garden at Nice. 


the Tea Rose, which must have taken place, 
has given a very different character to the 
new-comer. How exquisite the long 6pray6 
appear when gathered and laid carelessly 
upon a table ! For dinner table decoration 
they would be a» elegant a flower as one 
could employ. They are just like glorified 
Cog Roses, with a colour in centre of flower 
of a rich rosy-pink, shading to a soft and 
pleasing blush-pink. Just before the blos¬ 
soms open they are lovely, the cupped-like 
form revealing the rich pink inside, whilst the 
hacks of the petals are nearly white. The 
flowers are produced singly, or, at least, 
nearly always. The foliage is not the Last 
attractive part of this hybrid. The matured 
leaves are shiny, like small Camellia leaves, 
and the young growth i£n7ter\ as that I>f a 
Tea variety. The curious sn^al) pr ikfepDm 


those I had for some years on the Brier. Al¬ 
though spring planting was done under the. least 
favourable conditions for growth, the plants have 
flowered freely foi' weeks past, and promise to 
grow into great pillars, like those at Nice, which 
were 12 feet to 15 jeet high. The illustration 
shows one of Mr. Woodall's plants, and it gives 
but a faint idea of the great Rose-clad pillar. 

R. 


Rosa Hugonis. This is the name of a new 
specie® cf Rose discovered in Western China 
by a Catholic missionary, Father Hugo 
Scallan, who forwarded seeds of it to the 
British Museum in 1899, from which plants 
were successfully raised. It forms a d°nse 
bush 5 feet high, with slender, straight 
shoots clothed with numerous spine®, as in 
the Scotch Rose, and bearing on short axil¬ 


lary branchlets sulphur yellow flowers 
each 2 inches across. It is in bloom before 
any other Rose, except R. sericea, and it ap¬ 
pears to be of a very hardy nature. Single- 
flowered Roses being now in favour, we can 
recommend this as a good one in itself, and 
also as a potential breeder of an early-flower- 
ing, elegant-habited race of hardy Itoses.— 
The Field. 


ROSE RICHMOND. 

All who grow Roses for forcing have for 
many years been on the look out for a really 
good crimson or scarlet sort, and raisers have 
been striving for such a Rose without meet¬ 
ing, until recently, with any very startling 
results. M. Pernet Ducher was asked, so I 
have been informed, whether he could not 
produce for the American market a crimson 
Catherine Mermet—and what a lucky indi¬ 
vidual he would be who could succeed in 
raising such a Rose! No one who saw the 
beautiful blooms of the new Rose Richmond 
which were exhibited at a recent meeting of 
the Royal Horticultural Society could fail 
to be impressed with its excellent quality, 
brilliant colouring, and perfume, and we 
have to thank our American friends for again 
giving us a really good forcing Rose. It was 
raised by Messrs. E. G. Hill and Co., of 
Richmond, Indiana, from a cross between 
Lady Battersea and Liberty, and no one ac¬ 
quainted with the two Roses could doubt this, 
for it has all the splendid vigour of Lady 
Battersea, with a brighter and more brilliant 
colouring than Liberty. The bloom, too, is 
well finished, with a fairly high centre, and if 
well grown and liberally fed with bone-meal 
or other stimulants the blossoms develop into 
a good size. This variety possesses the ex¬ 
cellent trait of budding freely in the dullest 
days, and the colour does not “blue,” which 
is a great defect with Liberty. The colour 
approaches very nearly to a pure scarlet, and 
it will probably be some time ere a more 
brilliant forcing Rose is raised. Gardeners 
will do well to lay in a stock of this beautiful 
novelty as quickly as possible, and plant it 
out in good soil, or procure plants in 5-inch 
pots and grow them on for another year. 
Plants procured in 8-inch pots in the spring 
could be introduced to heat at once and be 
had in bloom by end of May. Those who grew 
Liberty by the thousand say that old plants 
give the best results. If potted well at the 
commencement it is not necessary to repot 
each year, and doubtless the same treatment 
will suit Richmond. Where there is conveni¬ 
ence for planting out under glass this plan is 
best, and we get some remarkably strong 
growths. The soil should be well trenched 
and plenty of well-decayed manure added, to¬ 
gether with £-inch bones. Let the soil settle 
down and plant out young grafted plants in 
June. If kept freely syringed and heat well 
maintained, the summer growth will be re¬ 
markable when the plants have once got hold 
of the new soil. Two feet apart each way 
would b9 about right, and later on some 
plants could be cut out, if required. 

Although I do not advise it for outdoor 
growth, I would suggest that the Manetti- 
stock be tried for some of the pot plants. 
Liberty is much better on this stock, al¬ 
though not so enduring. Lady Battersea is 
really a delightful Rose, and it should be, see¬ 
ing that it has for its parents such excellent 
Roses as Mme. Abel Chatenay and Liberty ; 
and Liberty, if report speaks truly, originated 
from Mrs. W. J. Grant, crossed with General 
Jacqueminot. There is, therefore, little won¬ 
der that Richmond is so free flowering and 
good with such antecedents as these. 

Whilst speaking of brilliant-coloured Roses, 
I cannot refrain from mentioning Etoile de 
France. If this Rose could be grown under 
glass, as I saw it last summer outdoors, it 
would be glorious. The blossoms are huge, 
and, with bright weather, very brilliant in 
colour. Perhaps by affording this variety 
extra heat—say, 58 degs. by night and 65 degs. 
by day, with an increase when the sun is 
shining—we should find Etoile de France 
valuable. I do not believe it has been fairly 
tried yet. It is a variety that needs sun¬ 
light, and perhaps Would be best as a Rose 
for April and May rather than for early 
spring or winter. Gross an Sangerhausen 





222 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


June 29, 1907 


will be a glorious Rose when better known, 
but it will never be a market variety, for it 
droops its head. General McArthur is a 
valuable red variety and a wonderful 
bloomer; moreover, it has that sweet 
fragrance we all love so much. There is a 
new Rose, named Warrior, which we are 
likely to hear much of. It is a long-budded, 
rich blood-red flower of the Papa Gontier 
style, but far richer in colour, and will be 
best when grown steadily—not forced in the 
general sense of the term. Hugh Dickson 
and George Laing Paul are good, richly- 
coloured Roses that will prove useful, al¬ 
though scarcely so free as the sorts already 
named ; and Baron Von Pallandt I like for 
its silvery edge to a vermilion-red flower, and 
it is a Rose of good quality. Rosa. 


SOME OLD ROSES WORTH GROWING. 
One is rarely asked about old Roses ; and 
yet some of the long-forgotten varieties would 
equal, if not surpass, many a Rose of modern 
times. I should be the last to depreciate the 
many beautiful novelties that are now being 
given us. We owe a debt of gratitude to 
hybridists for their achievements, which have 
quite altered the appearance of the Rose gar¬ 
den of the present day from what it was 
years ago. What I should like to caution the 
novice against is this : He sees some novelties 
described with almost a dictionary of adjec¬ 
tives, and he at once orders such, believing 
them to be the best Roses extant, passing by 
old and well tried sorts that would be far 
more suitable to the beginner. Whilst I 
should advise the novice to fight shy of novel¬ 
ties, I would not counsel him to rush back 
to the very oldest sorts, so that this article 
must be regarded more as one for the old 
grower, who delights in having his memory 
freshened with old names of Itoses he once 
grew so well. It may 6erve a double pur¬ 
pose in its assistance to those who contem¬ 
plate planting another season some old sorts 
to augment those modern varieties they now 
possess. We regard Gloire de Dijon, Sou¬ 
venir d’un Ami, Niphetos, and Devoniensis 
as old Roses, but, probably, they are grown 
now as extensively as of yore. I know Gloire 
de Dijon is; and where have we a better all¬ 
round sort when well done? What a differ¬ 
ence between a healthy specimen of this 
grand old Rose and a starved, wretched 
specimen growing on a hot wall with a hard 
gravel path around it! Souvenir de la Mal- 
maison is old, but this, too, has by no means 
been eclipsed yet. Two grand old Roses were 
Jules Margottin and John Hopper, but they 
are rarely asked for to-day. We now and 
then see a garden planted with nothing else— 
doubtless because they strike 60 freely—but 
whenever I see this I advise cutting them 
down to the ground and budding more 
modern sorts upon the young growths of some 
of them. 

Less than fifty years ago John Hopper 
caused a sensation at the Royal Horticultural 
Gardens, at Kensington, when Mr. Ward, of 
Tpswich, gained a first-class certificate for it. 
I believe I am right in saying he sold a thou¬ 
sand plants of it at ten shillings a piece, and 
it was looked upon then as a great gain, and 
to-day a perfect specimen compares favour¬ 
ably with the more recent Hybrid Perpetuals. 
I contend that for fragrance and hardiness 
the Hybrid Perpetual group will require a 
lot of beating, and we must on no account 
allow modern novelties to drive them out of 
cultivation. I well remember such old sorts 
as Abel Grand, Boieldieu, Anna Alexieff, 
Anna de Eiesbach, Firebrand, Abbe Bramerd, 
Baronne Prevost, Julie Touvais, Comtesse de 
Chabrillant, Empereur de Maroc, and that 
marvellous Rose, Queen Victoria, which was 
very much like Mme. Hippolvte Jamain. All 
of these were excellent in tlieir day, and, if 
well grown now, would surprise many of our 
younger Rose growers. Naturally, one would 
not grow such Roses as these and omit to 
have Charles Lefebvre, Marie Baumann, 
A. K. Williams, Alfred Colomb, etc. ; but 
where these already exist a revival of some 
of the old ones would add a charm to an old 
Rose garden. 

The Hybrid Chinese are a very excellent 
and hardy group. >Hftlairi No. 2|belongs to 
thisj group. 16 ituiot almost 


Tea-like in its delicate colouring? Huge 
standards, pillars, or arches are forms and 
ways in which this Rose may be grown, and it 
should find a place in every garden. Chene- 
dole is a grand old crimson, and Coiqie 
d’Hcbe has a refinement about it all its own. 
Charles Lawson, Juno, and Paul Ricaut are 
all most beautiful, making wondrous growth 
and forming superb standards, if carefully 
thinned. I have seen standards of these 
Roses with not a bloom, a result following 
hard pruning. Let them grow freely, and 
bend over the growths, if needful, then will 
there be abundance of flowers. The old com¬ 
mon Moss is another Rose which will never 
die out. The Moss Rose is seen to best ad¬ 
vantage when large bushes are planted near 
a dell or on a slope where the plants half 
lean over. There are numbers of other Moss 
Roses - the white Bath, Lanei, etc.—but none 
to compare with the old Pink. The Provence, 
or Cabbage, Roses are still regarded as idenls 
of fragrance. The white Provence and the 
crested are both so pretty that they are really 
worth a place in the choicest colleetioh. 
Maiden’s Blush i-s to be seen in almost every 
cottage garden, so that one need not fear its 
extermination. Is anything more beautiful 
than a fine old bush of this near, perhaps, a 
pretty porch of Clematis and Woodbine, and 
a Lavender bush close by, grouped as only 
the cottager knows how? The variety 
Celestial, with its exquisite long -shaped, 
tight little buds of shell-pink, is even more 
lovely as a flower than the old variety. Then 
there is Felicite (Parmentier), which, to me, 
is very precious. The true Damask Roses 
contain a few gems, 6iich as Leda. Mme. 
Hardy, and La Ville dc Bruxelles. The true 
York and Lancaster belongs to this group, 
but it is a Rose I would not give an inch of 
space to when I can obtain Rosa Mundi, a 
far more l>eautiful variegation. The old red 
Damask is found in many gardens under 
various designations, and it should not be 
overlooked when ordering old Roses. Per¬ 
haps we can afford to dispense with the Gul- 
lica Roses, for they are very flat, and the 
colours ugly, but sentiment may compel us to 
keep one or two. 

I cannot conclude without mentioning the 
Austrian Briers, which just now are so 
lovely. The wonderfully deep golden colour 
of the single form, and the marvellous orange- 
red hue of the Austrian Copper, are so very 
useful to mingle with the more modern Car¬ 
mine Pillar and'sinica Anemone, both of 
which are giving us a veritable feast of bloom, 
in spite of cold—almost wintry—weather. 

W. X. 


POLYANTHA ROSE ASCHENBRODEL. 
This delightful little gem, which is now 
(Juno 10th) opening, is gaining numerous 
friends. The blossoms arc not much larger 
than a shilling, but the formation of the 
petals is almost as iierfecfc as in a show 
bloom. It is remarkably free flowering, and 
its growth very dense and vigorous. In the 
space of three or four years one may have a 
bush fully 2 feet through, and this should lx 1 
remembered when planting. Although all 
the tribe are looked upon as being diminu¬ 
tive. this does not apply to their growth. I 
have seen huge bushes of such as Cecile 
Brunner, Mme. E. A. Nolle, and others, but 
there is this to be said—if we would keep 
them dwarf for edging, the plants may be cut 
down to the ground each year, with the cer¬ 
tainty of a beautiful free blossoming the same 
season, for they are as perpetual in flowering 
a6 the Monthly Roses. There aro two, if not 
three, distinct grades of growth in these Poly- 
antha Roses. The subject of our note may 
be cited as representing the most vigorous, 
and we might group with it *Kathcrina 
Zeimet, Sclineewitchen, Marie Pavic, Philip¬ 
pine, Lambert, Leonie Lamesch, Mme. E. A. 
Nolte, "Mnie. N. Levavasseur, "Mrs. W. H. 
Cutbush, "Perle d’Or. Georges Pernot, and. 
doubtless, that delightful novelty, "Aennehcii 
Muller. Next in vigour the following arc 
fairly representative:—Cecile Brunner, 
Canarienvogel, "Eugenie Lamesch, Faquer- 
ette, *Perle des Rouges, Petite Constant, and 
Primula; whilst representing the very dwarf 
Anna Marie de Montravel, Mignonette, 
"Gloire de Polyantha, and Rosalinde, Little 
Dot, Etoile d’Or may be cited. 


In growing tliese Roses, beds or groups of 
a sort should be planted where possible, or 
they are most effective when bordering long 
walks or drives, either in the kitchen garden 
or pleasure grounds, but wherever they are 
planted my advice would be to prune them 
very sparingly, and then a delightful mass of 
their tiny little flowers will reward the 
grower almost continuously from June to 
October. For pot culture the whole tribe 
are most useful, but I should recommend the 
few marked with an asterisk as being the best 
for the purpose, including the subject of this 
note. E. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Stocks for Marshal Niel Rose.— Opinions 
differ as to the stock this Rose should be on. 
Some are of opinion that it can be had at its 
best on its own roots. I never had good re¬ 
sults from own-root plants, and I know 
several neighbours that have never succeeded 
with it in any way. A friend of mine has 
had the greatest success with this fine Rose 
over the longest period of anyone I know. 
The lady is a devoted lover of her garden, and 
has two small glass houses. Some eight 
years ago, when she first occupied the house, 
I paid her a visit, and was shown on the back 
wall of one of these bouses a fine, strong 
plant of that good old kind, Reve d ? Or. 
Owing to lack of space and close priming, 
this did not bloom freely. I advised that one, 
or two kinds should be budded on it- 
Catherine Mermet and Marechal Niel 
amongst them. This was done, and the fol¬ 
lowing spring she had sonic fine blooms of 
C. Mermet. while Marechal Niel had made 
only a few strong shoots that had not ripened. 
Tliis was followed that season by several 
strong growths, each many feet long. These 
produced the following season a big crop of 
blooms of i milieus3 size and fine in colour. 
The growth being so rapid and fine I advised 
giving all the roof space to the Marechal 
Niel, and during the past five years nothing 
could be more satisfactory. Although only a 
small house, about lb feet long and 12 feet 
wide, I was told this spring she had cut 
about 300 fine blooms, commencing at the 
close of February ; at the close of May there 
were still many nice flowers. I could not find 
the least sign of canker. I was told the roots 
were fed with liquid-manure. Blood, freely 
diluted with water, was used. The rooting 
space was not extensive, and only enough 
heat is given to exclude severe frost in win¬ 
ter, the house being then full of tender 
things. Much the finest blooms I have ever 
seen were at Didlington Hall, Norfolk. The 
plant occupied a position in a very large 
orchard-house. 1 have seen shoots made 
more than 60 feet long in one season, and, 
being well ripened, they produced enormous 
blooms, but the plants only lived for five or 
six years. This plant was budded on the 
seedling Brier from the hedges. This year I 
have had fine blooms from a plant in a 
12-inch pot. The roots had gone through 
into the border. J. Crook. 

Rose Mohrenkoenig. —This Rose has a 
grand colour—one that we much needed in 
semi-climbing Roses. It is a deep velvety 
crimson, shaded with carmine. Being*a cross 
between Reine Marie Henrietta and Gruss 
an Teplitz, it is just such a Rose as one 
would expect from a union of this character. 
It reminds me somewhat of that fine old 
Rose, Empereur de Maroc, hut it is not so 
flat or so perfect in its blossom. These 
richly coloured Roses never seem to pall on 
one. I should sav Mohrenkoenig will make 
a fine standard. We already have proof of 
this in Grues an Teplitz and Francois 
Crousse. Roses of this type on standards, if 
mingled with equally free 6nits of a pale 
colour, such as Mine. Alfred Carriere, which 
just now is flowering so beautifully, Conrad 
F. Meyer, etc., would add quite a feature to 
any garden.— Rosa. 


"The English Flower Garden and Home 

Grounds .”—New Edition, 10th, revised, with descrip¬ 
tion* of all the best plants, trees, and shrubs, their 
culture and arrangement, illustrated on wood. Cloth, 
medium, 8vo., 15s.; post free, 15s. 6d. 

“ The English Flower Garden ” may also be 
had finely bound in 9 cols., half morocco, tit*. nett. Of 
all booksellers. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



.Tune 29, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


223 


ENDOOR PLANTS. 

ALLAMANDAS. 

In the Java when large specimen stove and 
greenhouse plants used to form a prominent 
feature at the various horticultural exhibi¬ 
tions, Allamandas of different kinds were fre¬ 
quently seen. With one exception, the flowers 
of the’ various species are of some shade of 
yellow. Most of the Allamandas are of a 
rambling style of growth, so that they are 
well fitted for clothing the roof of a stove or 
for training in some similar position. There 
has been a good deal of confusion in the past 
with regard to the nomenclature of the Alla- 
m an das, and in some cases names seem to 
have been multiplied needlessly. The best 
known ami the finest are : — 

Allamanda HendersONI.— A strong grow¬ 
ing, rambling or climbing shrub, which loses 
most, if not all, of its leaves in the winter, if 
it be kept rather dry at the roots during that 
season. With the return of spring and an 
increased water supply, young shoots are 
pushed out, and grow away rapidly. They 
soon commence to flower, and, if favourably 
situated, a succession of blossoms is kept up 
throughout the greater part of the summer. 
These are of a short trumpet shape, and, in 


shoots being clothed with small, thin leaves, 
while a succession is kept up for a consider¬ 
able time. In this the colour of the flowers 
is a bright lemon-yellow. This species may 
be grown on a rafter in a small or medium- 
| sized structure, or, if preferred, as a loose¬ 
growing bush. A good deal of the scarcity 
of this Allamanda is, no doubt, to lie 
accounted for by the difficulty attending its 
propagation, or, rather, its successful culture, 
for while cuttings are not at all difficult to 
, strike, the plants so obtained seldom grow 
I freely. This may be obviated by grafting it 
| upon one of the vigorous growers, such as 
| A. Hendersoni, as in this way A. graudiflora 
' will both grow and bloom freely. This 
, species is a native of Brazil ; indeed, all the 
members of the genus come from tropical 
I America. 

Allamanda violacea.— This species i6 
| unique in the colour of its blossoms, which, 
instead of being yellow, as in all the others, 
are of a kind of rosy-purple tint. The flowers 
are, individually, in sha|>c and size, a good 
I deal after the manner of those of A. nerii- 
j folia, but they arc not borne in such large 
clusters, while, as above mentioned, the 
colour is totally different. In A. violacea the 
leaves are often arranged in whorls of four, 
■ whereas in all the others they are in threes. 



Flowering shoot of Allamanda neriifolia. 


good examples, quite 5 inches across. Iii the 
bud state they are tinged with purple, but, 
when fully expanded, the colour is a beautiful 
rich yellcto. When room can be afforded this 
plant to grow to a large size, it becomes a 
wonderful sight, with its innumerable 
panicles of rich golden-coloured blossoms. 
This has also been known by the names of 
Schotti and Wardleana. 

Allamanda neriifolia.— The species here¬ 
with figured is a useful pot plant, as it flowers 
when quite small, and produces its large 
bunches of handsome blossoms nearly all the 
year round. This is an evergreen species, I 
with, considering the size of the plant, com¬ 
paratively large leaves. The flowers are de¬ 
veloped on the young shoots, which continue 
to grow and produce bunch after bunch all 
the summer through, the first blossoms 
usually appearing in April. Each flower is 
about 2^ inches long, and the same in width. 
The colour is deep yellow, with a few streaks 
of orange on the inside of the segments and 
tube. As this can be grown in the form of a 
small bush, it is particularly valuable where 
6 pace and head-room are limited. 

Allamanda grandiflora.— A delightful 
species, which, though introduced about 
seventy years ago, is even now far from com¬ 
mon. Compared with such as A. Hendersoni, 
it is of a dwarf, compact habit, thelslend^r 

Digitized by\j(X >glC 


It is a rather weak grower, and succeeds best 
when grafted on to a vigorous kind. 

Culture. —When employed as climbing 
plants in the stove, the Allamandas are seen 
to the best advantage when tied to a trellis 
from ti inches to a foot below the roof, the 
minor shoots being allowed to dispose them¬ 
selves at will. They may either be grown in 
pots or tubs, or planted out. In a large pot 
or tub there will be ample accommodation 
for the roots, and liquid manure can be given 
whenever needed. During the winter, too, 
the exact state of the soil as regards moisture 
can be readily determined—a difficult matter 
if they are planted in a border. A good 
rich 6oil suits the Allamandas best, a suitable 
i compost being three parts of turfy loam to 
one part each of leaf-mould, dry cow-manure, 
and sand. A. Hendersoni and A. neriifolia 
are readily propagated in early spring from 
cuttings of the young growing shoots. 


Erica ventricosa. — Finely - flowered 
examples of this beautiful greenhouse Heath 
may be seen at the present time in the better- 
class florists’ shops, it being still grown by a 
few cultivators who make a specialty of hard 
wooded plants. At one time collections of 
these South African Heaths were vety gener¬ 


ally grown in gardens, but nowadays they 
have almost dropped out of cultivation. Only 
those that satisfy the market cultivators’ 
rigid requirements are in a usual way to be 
met with. A somewhat variable species is 
Erica ventricosa, and numerous varietal 
names have been applied to the different 
forms, but some of these, it must be confessed, 
approach each other very closely. The usual 
habit of this species is to form a compact, 
rounded bush, with thickly-disposed, some¬ 
what upright-growing, branches. Each branch 
is terminated by a number of tubular-shaped 
blossoms, usually disposed in a whorl, and 60 
numerous are they that in good examples the 
entire plant is quite a mass of flowers, which 
remain fresh for a considerable time, whether 
on the plant or in a cut state, a quality which 
stands them in good stead when exposed for 
sale. The flowering season of this Heath is. 
as a rule, during the latter part of April and 
in the months of May and June. It always 
used to he well represented at the different 
exhibitions when specimen greenhouse plants 
were popular. A large, bold form, known as 
magnifies, has deep, rosy pink coloured blos¬ 
soms, while among the dwarf varieties may 
be especially mentioned that known as coc- 
cinea minor, whose name, however, is some¬ 
what of a misnomer, for at the deepest, (ho 
flowers arc but of a reddish-pink hue. Five- 
inch pots are generally employed in the cul¬ 
ture of Erica ventricosa, which, being of a 
close, dense habit of growth, needs but little 
pruning, and must on no account lie cut back 
hard after flowering, as is done in the case 
of E. hyemalis and others of that class. Dur¬ 
ing a recent visit to Covent Garden Market, 
two other Heaths, in addition to E. ventri¬ 
cosa, were noted in particularly fine condi¬ 
tion ; one, E. Cavendishi, has rich golden- 
coloured flowers, while the other, E. candi- 
dissima, lias tubular-shaped flowers of spot¬ 
less purity clothing the tall, upright shoots 
for some distance.—G. S. C. 


VERBENAS IN TOTS. 

Forty years ago Verbenas were largely culti¬ 
vated in pots, and also universally employed 
for the flower garden, but they became so 
subject to mildew and other diseases that in 
many gardens they were altogether discarded. 
About a dozen years ago, however, that 
robust variety, with delightful rich pink- 
coloured blossoms, known as Miss Willmott, 
made its appearance, and, being taken in 
hand by some of the growers that supply 
Covent Garden Market, it was soon met with 
in considerable numbers, and quickly became 
popular. From that time Verbenas have 
continued to make headway, and at the re¬ 
cent Temple show a group of different varie¬ 
ties in pots put up by Messrs. If. B. May and 
Sons, of Edmonton, attracted a large amount 
of attention, the older visitors being drawn 
to them by reminiscences of their younger 
days, and the more juvenile ones by reason 
of the rich and unusual display furnished by 
the several varieties there shown. Prominent 
among them were many to which the term 
Auricula-eyed was given. The flowers of 
these are distinguished by a large white eye, 
which serves to intensify the rich crimson 
ami violet which form the groundwork of the 
flowers of some of them. Prominent among 
varieties of this class are Adonis, scarlet; 
Ethereal, pink ; Norma, rich purple; Radi¬ 
ant, crimson; Unique, heliotrope; and 
Favourite, purplish violet. Of the Miss Will- 
mot b class, beside that well known and popu¬ 
lar variety, wo have Juno, scarlet; Maiden’s 
Blush, soft pink; Princess of Wales, violet- 
blue j and Queen of Whites, white. 

To the amateur with but a single green¬ 
house the wintering of these named varieties 
is not an easy matter, as at that season they 
need a light, dry shelf in a structure kept 
somewhat warmer than will suffice for tins 
wintering of Pelargoniums, Fuchsias, and 
such things. Mildew is an enemy greatly to 
be feared, and if the atmosphere is damp and 
stagnant it may carry off the plants whole¬ 
sale. Provided they winter well, young 
shoots will, with the return of spring, be 
pushed out freely, and, if taken off at a length 
of about a couple of inches, they will, in a 
gentle heat, strike root! in a few days, and 
when potted off grow away rapidly afterwards. 

URBANA-CHAMPAI6N 







224 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED « 


June 29, 1907 


In potting the cuttings, the market cultivator 
usually puts-three at equal distances around 
the side of a small pot, and shifts them into 
their flowering pots (5 inches in diameter) 
without separating the plants. X. 


MULCHING PLANTS IN POTS, BOXES, 
ETC. 

It is doubtful if this receives the attention it 
deserves, and I am convinced if more atten¬ 
tion were given to this method of feeding 
plants grown in pots, better ero]>s would re¬ 
sult. In growing many crops it is not a 
question of a large bulk of soil, as long as 
Miflieient is given to promote a mass of 
healthy roots. Given these, it is then only 
a question of providing proper food to the 
roots. Speaking generally, when things are 
grown in pots or boxes, the tendency of the 
roots is to go to the lower portion to find 
moisture, and I have often seen 2 inches or 
3 inches of the top of the soil quite free of 
roots. When this is so, many cultivators 
deem it necessary to give the plant a larger 
pot. In many instances this is a mistake, as 
it encourages deep rooting, whereas had the 
surface soil been removed and a fresh coat 
that contained some feeding elements added, 
better results would have followed. Some 
may think giving manure-water would answer 
the same purpose. This is not so, as this 
only stimulates the roots, and does not pro¬ 
mote more root action. The main object of 
all growers of pot and confined rooting things 
should be to first fill every bit of soil with 
healthy roots, then it is astonishing the 
amount of feeding crops will take, and the 
fine crop obtained from asmall rooting space. 

During the past ten years I have given this 
much attention in growing Cucumbers, Toma¬ 
toes, Melons, Chrysanthemums, etc., in 
limited rooting space. 1 have seen some of 
the best Melons grown in the smallest, amount 
of soil. I grow Melons ' largely in pots, 
planting twcrm a 12-inch pot, and from these 
I obtain four and five good fruits. When 
they are potted they arc put on raised mounds 
above the top of the pot, this affording room 
for two or three surface dressings—the last 
ordinary Moss. In this 1 sprinkle some ap¬ 
proved artificial manure. It. is astonishing 
how quickly Cucumbers will root into these 
surface dressings when in active growth. I 
have seen them occupy it in forty-eight hours. 
Tomatoes give by far the best results in small 
rooting space and treated as above. I use a 
portion of dry wood ashes in these mixtures 
with rotten manure, etc*. J. Crook. 


NOTES AND HEP LIES. 

Treatment of Cyclamens.— What is the proper 
treatment of Cyclamen persicum at this time of 
year? 1 have them plunged in a frame facing south, 
and intend to re|>ot when they begin to make new 
leaves. Is this correct? What sort, of compost 
should they have, and when should they be moved 
into the greenhouse?— C. Y. K. 

[Your Cyclamens may now be shaken quite 
clear of the old soil, and repotted in a mix- 
ture made up of two parts loam to one part of 
leaf-mould, and one part silver sand and dry 
cow-manure mixed. The manure should be 
passed through a fine sieve before it is mixed 
with the other ingredients. After potting 
they should be watered through a fine rose, 
in order to settle everything in its place, but 
after this, especial care must be taken not 
to overwater till growth recommences. This 
does not mean that the soil is to be kept quite 
dry, but rather that it must not be allowed 
to get too wet. The frame should be shaded 
from the full rays of the sun ; indeed, if you 
have one in a partially shaded spot it will be 
better for the Cyclamens than that facing due 
south. As the plants grow, more water must, 
of course, be given, and they should then be 
thinned out sufficiently to allow of a regular 
development of the leaves. By the end of 
August, as the nights get cold, the plants 
must be removed to the greenhouse.] 

Salvia splendens —What is the proper treat¬ 
ment. for Salvia splendens for flowering in a green¬ 
house in autumn? I have grown this for several 
years, hut without the success 1 could wish. 1 have 
seedling plants now just potted up into 3-inch pots, 
and shall be glad to know how I should treat them 
from now until flowering-time?—C. Y. K. 

[Generally epeaking. Salvia splendens 
should be given much about the same treat¬ 
ment as Chn santhenyfiiilfc are when Jrrown in 

LiO 


pots that is, jjropagated in the spring, grown 
on,out-of-doors during the summer, and taken 
into the greenhouse to flower as soon as the 
nights grow cold. As yours are now r only 
just potted into 3-inch pots, they are very 
backward, and you cannot hope for much of 
a display from them this year. As soon as 
the present pots are well furnished with roots, 
the plants should be shifted into those in 
which they are to flower, and for them pots 
6 inches or 7 inches in diameter w ill be large 
enough. Good holding soil, such as Chrysan¬ 
themums need, will suit them, and as the 
pots get full of roots give a little manure- 
water occasionally. Your small plants should 
be stopped at least once, in order to cause 
them to break out bushy.] 

Sweet Peas in winter.-I want to have some 
Sweet Peas in bloom at Christinas, in a greenhouse 
heated to 50 (legs. night temperature. When should 
1 sow same, and how treat the plants? What white 
and what pink variety would you recommend?— 
C. Y. K. 

[We do not hold out much hope of you ob¬ 
taining a satisfactory yield of flowers in the 
greenhouse at Christmas, but if you wish to 
try we should recommend you to sow the 
seed in July and place in a cold frame. Six- 
inch pots may be used, and filled with a com¬ 
post made up principally of good loam, to 
which a little cow-manure and sand have been 
added. When the seedlings are thinned out, 
half-a-dozen should be left in each pot, as this 
number will be quite sufficient. When the 
nights get cold the plants should have a good 
light position in the greenhouse assigned to 
them, and as the pots get. full of roots a little 
weak manure-water will be helpful. A good 
white variety is Dorothy Eckford, and an 
equally desirable pink is Countess Spencer.] 

Lotus peliorrhynchus (F. M. B.). -This comes 
from Madeira, hence a warm greenhouse is necessary 
for its culture, though iu the summer months in the 
South of England it may be grown outside in a vase 
or on a mound. For draping the front stages.of the 
greenhouse or for baskets it is also very useful. The 
whole plant has a silvery-grey appearance, and the 
shoots, being very slender and drooping, and the 
leaves small and narrow, the growth is most elegant, 
The flowers, which are curious in shape, pointed, and 
curved like lobsters’ claws, and of a brilliant orange- 
st arlet, hang thickly on the drooping shoots on all 
sides of whatever the plant may he grown in, and 
last in beauty for several weeks. An illustration of 
a well-grown plant appears iu our issue of July 18th, 
1903, p. 255. 


ROOM AND WINDOW. 


PLANTS FOR FURNISHING. 

What plants or shrubs do you recommend to brighten 
three corners of a lobby, the only light of which 
enters through a door facing west? The plants 
should be 3 feet to 5 feet high, and would have to 
be grown in flower-pots (for easy removal). Of 
course, they would be changed at intervals and put 
in the open, etc., to recover from the darkness. I 
should be glad of a selection for different seasons. 
They would be purchased in pots. Do you consider 
two of a kind sufficient, if changed, weekly? I have 
no glass, so the plants must be hardy euough to 
stand outside.— Cheshire. 

[The following are some of the plants we 
have grown for furnishing. We usually start 
with fair-sizetl plants in pots, and when they 
require a shift, move into tubs, in which they 
do well. They receive a little pinching and 
pruning at the beginning, and a stray shoot 
which is breaking away is stopped after¬ 
wards, as the object, is to keep them well 
furnished, and, at the same time, within 
bounds or the limits assigned. We find, for 
winter, Australian Dracienas, green-leaved 
kinds only, very useful. They are usually 
stood outside in summer, though, of course, 
if required, they will be available at any 
time for a change. Fan Palms (Chamasrops 
excelsa), same treatment as Dracaenas; 
Euonymus (gold and silver) soon make useful- 
sized plants, ancl may easily be trained as 
pyramids or standards, and, being quite 
hardy, are always useful. Myrtles, AucubavS, 
and Boxes are amongst the best shrubs for 
tubs, and are easily kept in condition. 
Bambusa Metake we have found useful where 
gas is not much used, and it does well in a 
large pot or tub. Of course, the plants used 
in winter may be carried on through the 
spring. We are assuming something of a per¬ 
manent nature is desired. If flowers are 
wanted, well-grown plants of the Yellow Jas¬ 
mine and Laurestinus, and good bushes of 
Lilacs and Weigclas or Bush Honeysuckles 
may be had. 


For early and late summer some of the 
Japanese Maples will be useful if well grown. 
They can be plunged out during winter, and 
introduced just as they are breaking into 
leaf. There is much variety of colour in 
the leafage. The Japanese Grasses, Eula¬ 
lias, green and variegated, are graceful. 
Roses in tubs, if well grown, will last some 
time in summer. Hydrangeas and Agapan- 
thuses, large plants in tubs, will be avail¬ 
able, and there arc several things among the 
Magnolias which can be grown in large pots 
plunged out in winter, and introduced as 
they come into flower. M. stellata is very 
effective, and there are others, such as ama- 
bilis. The Pampas Grass I have found 
useful in tubs. A few well-grown Chrysan¬ 
themums will be desirable in autumn and 
winter; Michaelmas Daisies may be a special 
feature in autumn. Some of the late kinds 
will flower in winter; and, if desired, various 
Lilies may be had ; four or five bulbs in a 
large pot will be effective. I do not care much 
for Conifers; though well enough for tem¬ 
porary work, they arc not lasting, and Bays 
are too stiff, I think.—E. H.] 

NOTES AND REPLIES . 

Window-plants for autumn. -By a little fore¬ 
thought it is possible to prolong the display of 
window-plants until late in autumn, and the present, 
time is suitable for making the necessary prepara¬ 
tions. It often huppens that many small plants left 
over from the seed-pans and striking-pits in May are 
not considered large enough for present requirements. 
These are the plants with which a show for autumn 
may be relied upon. Fuchsias, Zonal Pelargoniums. 
Heliotropes, among the number, may be turned to 
good account, provided they are potted on in a suit¬ 
able compost, and Btood in a cold frame until August, 
pinching off all flower-buds as they appear. Not a 
few annuals, too, make most desirable pot-plants, 
and in this category one may include the Schizan- 
thuscs and Rhodantbes, seed of which may be sown 
in J une. — \V ooduast\yick. 


GARDEN PESTS AND FRIENDS. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

The Beech blight.-I would be glad to know 
what has attacked the accompanying leaves of Cop¬ 
per Beech? The tree is a young one, planted last 
autumn, and is covered with a fly or fungus. I 
would be glad to know if it attacks other trees than 
the Copper Beech?—FlVEWAYS. 

[Your Copper Beech has been attacked by 
the Beech blight. It is the excrement of an 
insect (Coccus fagi) which confine® its attacks 
only to the Beech. A mixture of common 
lime with water in the proportion of three or 
four handfuls of lime to a bucket of water, 
is recommended as a remedy. This should 
be applied to all parts of the tree, and if the 
disease has got. a severe hold, then a second 
application will be necessary. Another 
remedy ill at has been recommended is the 
caustic alkali solution, which, however, 
should only be applied when the tree is at 
rest. You will find a detailed account of the 
disease in our issue of August 12th, 1905, 
page 308, a copy of which can be had from 
the publisher, post free for l£d.] 

The black Vine-weevil. -Will you kindly say 
what the enclosed insect is, and how to "destroy it? 
It was found in my greenhouse eating the leaves of 
Drncamas, Hibiscus, and Roses.—HIBISCUS. 

[The insect you send specimen of is the 
black Vine weevil. The only practicable way 
of getting rid of this pest is by killing the 
parent beetles. They are very destructive to 
the leaves of many plants, particularly those 
of Vines and the fronds of Ferns. As they 
usually feed only at night, remaining during 
the day under some shelter, comparatively 
few persons know of their existence. If you 
suspect any of your plants are being injured 
by them, you should search for them at night, 
as they fall off whatever they are on if in 
any way disturbed. It is safer to lay a white 
sheet of some kind under the plant before it 
becomes dark, so that when they fall they 
may be easily 6een. Then some two hours 
after it is dark throw a bright light suddenly 
on the plant, and the weevils will, probably, 
fall down. If they do not, search the plants 
well, or give them a good jarring shake. It 
is useful to lay 6mall bundles of dry Moss or 
hay on the soil of the pots, or, in the case 
of Vines and climbing plants, to tie .them on 
the stems. The weevils find these very con¬ 
venient places to hide in. These traps should 
be examined every morning.] 



June 29, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


225 


OUTDOOR PLANT8. 

HERBACEOUS PJEONIES. 

The herbaceous Pseoniee have ever been 
justly prized, their massive flowers and hand¬ 
some foliage rendering the plants beautiful 
at more than one season of the year. Dur¬ 
ing recent years, however, a greater impetus 
has been given to the cultivation of these 
plants by the rather large influx of single 
varieties, which, if of a somewhat fleeting 
nature, are, at least, of extreme beauty in 
their season. For generations the Paeony 
was among those few hardy plants that were 
regarded by the gardener us impatient of re¬ 
moval, requiring from three to five years to 
recover themselves from transplanting. It 
may, as a matter of fact, take even longer 
than this, if the work be taken in hand at a 
wrong season, and we still meet with plants 
that have been rendered very weak because 


more or less fixed season of the year. Hence, 
the first group may be transplanted over a 
much extended season, while the second 
group, which includes Pieonies and Christmas 
Roses, should, to do them, justice, be planted 
within certain limits. If the Paeony is thuB 
regarded, the plants are quickly re-established 
j in their own quarters, while tnc same plants 
j are most impatient if disturbed at an un 
j seasonable time, and take a long time to 
I recover. In the Pteonia there are but two 
sets of roots formed in each year the main 
| roots, which appear in early autumn, and 
which develop into tap roots later, and the 
fibrous roots that appear on the main roots 
in early spring. 

The main roots appear about mid Septem¬ 
ber, and the planter who endeavours to com¬ 
plete the work of planting in that month has 
but little to fear. If for any feason the work 
cannot be completed at the time named, the 
best thing to do is to lift the plants destined 


well established, the plants may remain for 
years in one position, but old clumps should 
receive unlimited supplies of water in sum¬ 
mer, and liquid-manure in autumn and win¬ 
ter, when the rooting process is most active. 
Pseonics should never be planted near to large 
trees or in the usually over-planted shrub¬ 
bery border, where they are sure to be robbed 
I of the good soil they 60 much need. 

In addition to the many forms of Chinese 
Pieonies, there are not a few single varieties 
of great beauty when seen in a large group, 
as in the accompanying illustration. The 
variety figured has large, rich crimson blos¬ 
soms. The cupped form of this variety is 
well shown in the picture. There is also a 
number of single flowered varieties belonging 
to such species as arietina, officinalis, 
anomala, peregrina, etc., the majority flower¬ 
ing freely in May in advance of the single 
i Chinese Pieonies ; P. alhiflora, which flowers 
in June, the double flowered forms of the 



A group of Pseonia decora Pallasii in Messrs. Barr and Son’s nursery at Thames Ditton. 


of their ilL-treatment, or, rather, because the 
right way of dealing with such tilings was 
but indifferently understood. For many 
years Pieonies were transplanted at almost 
any time during the autumn and winter 
months. At other times spring planting has 
been indulged in, and, generally, I think, 
with the most disastrous results. A rule-of- 
thumb with the growers of hardy plants of 
forty years ago was to plant or transplant 
almost everything in the hardy perennial line 
when so many inches of new growth had been 
made in spring, and Pieonies were included. 
Moreover, the plants 60 treated were not 
usually a success, if at all. The reason is 
not far to seek, and is due entirely to the 
way in which the plants produce their roots. 
Upon more than one occasion when lecturing 
upon hardy plants and dealing with trans¬ 
planting I have roughly grouped perennials 
into two sections : (1) Those that emit new 
root-fibres continuously ; and (2) those pro 
ducing periodic sets of roots limited in nura 
ber, and always in ^ J 1 ** 1 


jfiiflWished plant! at a 

C.o 


for removal and heel them in, thereby check¬ 
ing, or rather, delaying, the rooting process. 
Those who transplant the Pteony when in full 
growth will have to wait long before getting 
flowers ; it is, indeed, the worst possible sear- 
son of the whole year. Far better that the 
work be done in August, as by so doing the 
work is completed before the new issue of 
roots—a most important item. Some other 
important items worth noting are that the 
Pieony should not be transplanted in huge 
specimens intact, but be broken up freely, 
discarding the solid central portion of the 
clump, which is of no value to the plant or 
the planter. Good specimens for planting 
are those with three or five crown-buds each ; 
and, if it is desired to form a clump, several 
such plants should be arranged at intervals 
over a ground space of 3 feet or more. The I 
new roots in Pieonies are emitted just below 
the crown bud, and these should always be | 
buried in the soil. Vigorous rooting and of 
vigorous growth, the deepest and the richest 
soil should be prepared for the plants. Once 


! Chinese Peeonies succeeding the above in 
their time of blooming. Thus it will be 
1 seen that, with a good assortment embracing 
the several sections, the flowers of the Paeony 
may be had in the garden for weeks in suc¬ 
cession, and certainly no group of hardy 
j perennials is more deserving of extensive 
cultivation. E. H. Jenkins. 


Hoeing between the Tufted Pansies.— 

Spring-planted Tufted Pansies are already 
nicely established. Recent rains have beaten 
I down the soil, and this has become so caked 
1 on the surface as to require immediate treat¬ 
ment, if the plants are to continue making 
headway. The rains, too, have caused the 
seeds of weeds to germinate. A timely hoe 
ing will quickly cliange the appearance of 
things, and this should be attended to at 
once. The hoe should be used with care, so 
as not to damage roots in any way. The hoe¬ 
ing, which should oe done weekly, will de¬ 
stroy the weeds, and at the same time aerate 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 











226 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


June 29, 1907 


the soil. The proper aeration of the soil is 
one of the most satisfactory methods of pro¬ 
moting growth. It is a good plan previous 
to the hoeing to go over plants that are not 
very strong, or that have hardly yet got 
established, and remove buds and blossoms, 
in this way concentrating all the energy of 
the roots on the development of growths. 
This is a passing sacrifice of flowers, that will 
be amply repaid in the near future in charm¬ 
ing little tufts. These especially will be 
aglow with colour within ten days of the last 
picking off of the buds and blossoms, so that, 
after all, it is not a very greuf sacrifice.— 
D. B. Crane. 

PRIMULA S1EBOLDI. 

Inquiry is made concerning the non flower¬ 
ing of the above at page 192 of Gardening, 
mid as it would apjiear that the requirements 
of this are by no means well understood, a 
few further particulars may be of service. 
In tli,e first place, the advice to keep the 
plants “moderately well watered” is a mis 
take, as the plant's nix* far happier in rich 
ground that is always moist or even wet. 
Unless there is special reason for retaining 
tlie plants in pots, I would suggest planting 
them out in deep and rich soils at once. 
Those who grow these plants in pots or pans, 
or in dry, sunny positions, with little or no 
moisture for the roots, have not the least 
idea of their vigour or beauty when grown 
in rich and constantly wet soils. Many years 
ago, with a view to satisfy the requirements 
of this group, a special bed was prepared, 
having its surface 9 inches below the ordi¬ 
nary level, and so placed that all the rain¬ 
water from adjacent pathways drained into the 
lied. Some clay was also put into the bottom 
of the, bod to prevent the water getting away 
into the gravel subsoil. Above the clay, en- 
rielied soil, to the depth of 18 inches, was 
placed, and the rhizomes, when planted, were 
covered fully 2 inches deep. Trilliums occu¬ 
pied the one end of the same bed, and with 
the shade, moisture, and rich soil were very 
successful. Early in autumn the Primulas 
were mulched with short manure, and the 
splendid vigour and fine umbels of flowers 
proved that the treatment suited the plnnts. 

I have seen it stated, too, that the rhizomes 
of these plants must not lie buried, or they 
will decay. There can be no greater mis¬ 
take. Thirty years ago, when growing in 
pots for commercial purposes, the finest sorts 
then known, it was my practice to pot and 
divide the plants in the dormant stage for 
convenience, and because the season’s growth 
then was completed. The rhizomes were al¬ 
ways covered with soil, and in the plunging 
lieds—which were cool and shady—a further 
covering of spent Hops, 4 inches deep, was 
given. Thus treated the plants grew with 
great vigour. 

It should always l>e remembered when 
dealing with these things that the root fibres 
issue not merely from the under sides of the 
rhizome, but from nearly two thirds the 
upper surface also. Hence, to have any part 
exposed must be detrimental to health. By 
the description given bv “ D. K. Oickliain ” 
of the behaviour of his plants, I should 
imagine they have been far too dry. Given 
the treatment described, the leafage remains 
until September, and upon I lie longevity of 
the foliage rests the fullest vigour of the 
plants. Well grown, even the foliage is 
attractive, ami with iimliels of flowers 
120 inches or 2 feet high these plants are 
among the best. Had I to provide pot plants 
for greenhouse or conservatory, I should 
most certainly plant out the crowns in rich 
and moist soils, and pot and plunge them 
each year in early autumn till I required 
them for the greenhouse. Generously 
treated, they are worth looking at when in 
flower, but as seen in highly-raised lieds 
in some of the London parks and gardens, 
with miserable umbels of waxy-looking 
flowers about 4 indies high, they are wretched 
in the extreme. Hiebold’s Primrose likes good 
living, and no plant better repays the cost 
of such. It niav interest many to know that 
Mr. W. B. Latham, when curator at the 
Botanical Gardens, Birmingham, grew the 
whole of his stock of Primula Sieboldi in a 
very wet, low lying bpujer, in company with 
I*, rosea, I*. japoni^a/l^yeii*i^»yiJt^> etc., 


and in the stiff, holding, clayey soil and 
moisture—the latter most abundant in winter¬ 
time—all the plants named were a success. 
Hampton IIUl. E. II. Jenkins. 


ROCK GARDEN AND POND. 
(Reply to “H. N. D.”) 

For so small a pond it is optional whether 
you employ concrete or brick 6et in cement, 
so far us the sides are concerned. The bot¬ 
tom of the basin would lx? best if formed of 
strong concrete, and a bed of this not less 
than 9 inches in thickness should be first 
made. Having set out the outline of the 
basin, you must allow the base of concrete to 
be some 12 inches wider nil round, the side 
walls to bo set well within this boundary. 
The concrete should lie of a strength known 
as three and one that is, three parts clean 
river ballast to one part of cement. It is 
important that this be first thoroughly mixed 
before wetting, to insure the proper distri¬ 
bution of the cement. Avoid wetting the 
mixture too freely, and. when placed in posi¬ 
tion, the concrete should remain at least, 
one day lx-fore starting the side walls. The 
side walls may be of brick or concrete; if 
the latter, the same strength and thickness 
as the base will do quite well, or even fl inch 
thick sides may suffice. Finally, the whole 
of the interior must lx 1 , faced with clean, 
washed sand and cement to the thickness of 
I inch. One half of this thickness may lie of 
four and one strength, the other half to l*> 
of two and one, and well faced up. As there 
is often a difficulty with those tanks of irre¬ 
gular outline when placing in the concrete 
sides, we give you the alternative suggestion 
of making the sides of brick set in cement. 
Single-brick thickm , «s will do, provided a 
stiffening outside lining of concrete la* added, 
made at about six and one. This outside 
lining, reaching to and resting on the con¬ 
crete base, would give great strength to all. 
You ask, “What depth of water you had 
better have?” We could better inform you 
did wo know what plants you wish to grow. 
In any case, the size of the tank will not ad 
init of large Water Lilies, and \ve should like 
to know whether the pond is in the shade or 
in sun. and if in a town or country garden. 
In a shady spot we doubt the success of the 
newer Water Lilies, though there are many 
other plants quite suitable. Water Lilies 
require not less than 2 feet deep of water, 
and with a few inches of heavy loamy soil in 
the bottom of the basin would do quite well. 
Neither the Iris nor the Saxifrage require to 
be grown in water, but rather prefer a deep 
bed of rich and very moist soil. Would you 
not prefer to* give more definite details as to 
the position of the basin, as if in shade with 
high rocks around it is more suited to bog 
and shade-loving subjects than Water Lilies? 
For the former a water-tight basin is not a 
necessity by any means. 


THE BEST TUFTED PANSIES FOR THE 
FLOWER GARDEN. 

D.’h” SELECTION of good Tufted Pansies 
might with advantage receive the following 
additionsJohn Quarton, a delicate pale 
mauve of good habit, and Molly Pope, a 
brilliant yellow self. Molly Po|H3 is a cap¬ 
tured sunbeam. Through the dreariest win 
ter days a yellow gleam here and there greets 
you as you wander round the garden search 
ing for the first, sign of far off spring. Last 
Christmas its cheery face even peered through 
the snow. No sooner had the snow melted 
than it burst forth into a perfect Hallelujah 
chorus of bloom. Now it is a golden fleece 
amongst the budding Roses, which seem happy 
enough in such congenial company, in spite 
of the warnings of the stricter rosarians, who 
tell us that the queen of flowers must, have 
no bed-fellows. Sydney Spalihno. 

In answer to “D.,” I have lieen grow¬ 
ing Tufted Pansies for years, and find the 
best bedders are Marchioness and White Em¬ 
press, for white; Kitty Bell and Florizel, 
lavender; Kingcup and Bullion, golden-yel¬ 
low ; William Neil, pale rose ; The Mearns, 
plum, upper petals edged white ; Countess of 
Kintore. bluish-purple, broadly edged white ; 
Blue Cloud, white, heavily edged blue; 
Christiana, white, with deep yellow eye; 


Admiral of the Blues, and Archie Grant, 
deep indigo-blue. I find all these of excel¬ 
lent habit, and very hardy, producing an 
abundance of flowers over a long season.— 
M. B., Killincy, Co. Dublin. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 
Begonias out-of-doors.— The summer of 
1906 will long be remembered as one when 
many plants that thrive best under cool and 
moist conditions failed comparatively early 
in the season, but it will also be remembered 
from the fact that some subjects that delight 
in sun, thrived, when planted under certain 
conditions. In this number the Tuberous 
Begonia must be included, for in places 
where lx'ds hail been mulched these showy 
flowers wore a blaze of colour for weeks to¬ 
gether. Now is the time when they may Ixj 
turned out of-doors with safety, and to in¬ 
tending planters I would urge the importance 
of giving them a sunny aspect, and a 6oil 
light and rich. One composed of loam and 
leaf-soil, with old manure added, suits them 
to perfection, and though there are those who 
do not grow them for the reason that they 
are not adapted for cutting, any loss in this 
direction is, to my mind, more than compen¬ 
sated for by the rich profusion of blossoms. 
More particularly is this seen when planted 
out by themselves on beds on a lawn or near 
to a green sward. Sonic friends of mine who 
grow them, invariably plunge the pots in 
which the tubers were started in March, lo¬ 
calise of the convenience of lifting them in 
the autumn, but- I do not think they bloom 
so freely as when planted ill the soil. — 
WOODBASTWICK. 

The Snake s-head Iris (Iris tuberosa).-- 
This, known in Italy as La Vedsvina, or 
Little Widow, is a charming, though not 
showy, flower. Tn some parts of Devonshire, 
it is found wild in the hedgerows. It conics 
into flower at a very early season, often being 
in bloom in the mouth of February. Its blos- 
soma cannot bo termed striking, but, when 
looked into, have a delicate Ix’auty of their 
own, with their velvet-black falls and apple-’ 
green standards, that is very attractive, while 
they possess the additional recommendation 
of being sweetly scented. Tin 1 flowers are 
carried on footstalks about 18 inches in 
height, and the narrow foliage often exceeds 
2 feet in length. The leaves are curious in 
form, being quadrilateral in shajx*, with a 
distinct ridge at each corner. This Iris is 
not particular as to soil or site. It does well 
in Cornwall in a thick wood where it is in 
the densest shade through the summer, and 
in another garden it is growing on a dry 6lop« 
in the fullest sunshine, but in both cases it 
flowers freely.— S. W. Fitzherbkrt. 
Summer treatment of Lily of the Valley. 

It is astonishing how little attention many 
growers give to Lily of the Valley when out 
of bloom, and then are surprised if their 
plants do not give a full crop the next year. 

I have often noticed beds in gardens, ami 
have been asked by the owners why they did 
not obtain more flowers. I pointed out to 
them the crowded state of the growths and 
the lack of food. If good flowers are to 1x3 
had, the plants must have attention during 
the growing season in the way of moisture 
and food. Tx't anyone give Tjily of the Valley 
the same attention as meted out to Aspara¬ 
gus and note the result. Those having 
crowded beds should, ns soon ns the plants 
are out of bloom, remove all the weak 
growths, allowing each one left sufficient 
room. Then apply something in the way of 
a rich surface dressing, working it in among 
the growths with the hand. Later, one or 
two soakings of manure-water from stable or 
farm-yard, etc., should be given. During 
the past three or four years I have grown 
many thousands of crowns for forcing, com¬ 
mencing at Christmas, and nothing could be 
more satisfactory. Added to this I aiu able 
to gather from the open borders enormous 
quantities of fine spikes. The blooming 
season in the open is not a long one, but I 
extend this by growing some on warm bor¬ 
ders. some in the open, and again in a cold 
northern aspect, this extending the season 
about a fortnight. I can see no difference 
between plants growing in full sun and those 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



JuN'B 20, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


227 


OROHID8. 

L.*TJO-CATTLEYA MYRA (BURFORD 
VARIETY). 

At the meeting of the Royal Horticultural 
Society on February 13th, 1906, Sir Trevor 
Lawrence, Bart., exhibited a fine plant of 
this beautiful hybrid, to which an award of 
merit was given by the Orchid committee. The 
plant was raised by Messrs. Charlesworth, of 
Heaton, Bradford, its parents being Lcelio 
flava and Cattleya Trianee. The flowers arc 
about intermediate in size and shape, the 
sepals and peta’s of a bright primrose-yellow, 
the lip dark crimson. The pseudo-bulbs are 
one-leaved, and the flower-spike, which is 
rather more than a foot in length, rises from 
the apex. L.-C. Myra is a very desirable 
plant to include in any collection of Orchids, 
the flowers being extremely useful for but¬ 
ton-hole work and for decoration generally. 
The wonderful contrast of colour in the lip 


to the side of the pot. When this has 
occurred the amount of water may be gradu¬ 
ally increased. Generally speaking, the 
plant will grow well in the Cattleya-house, or 
it may be suspended well up to the light in a 
warm corner of the intermediate-house. 


CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

CHRYSANTHEMUMS IN THEIR 
SUMMER QUARTERS. 

If not already arranged in their summer 
quarters, the plants, after the final potting, 
should be placed there without further delay. 
There is a tendency in most gardens to un¬ 
duly crowd the plants in their standing 
ground, with the result that the growths be¬ 
come drawn and w'eakly, and the wood in¬ 
differently ripened. In such circumstances 
it is hopeless to expect success. Where there 
is plenty of room in a good open position, let 
this be selected. The advantages of exposure 


I of rather 6tout Bamboo cancs or Hazel 
stakes of sufficient length to carry them right 
through to the flowering season. See that 
these stakes a~o carefully sharpened to a 
point, and take care not to insert them near 
to the stem of the plant. Securely tie the 
plant to the stake, and then, in turn, secure 
the stake to the wires. All will then be well 
for a few weeks, at least. Later, as the 
lateral and other shoots attain sufficient 
length, they should also receive the support 
of stakes. These stakes should be tied on to 
the wires, and the shoots in turn secured to 
the stakes. In this way the growths have a 
kind of espalier like appearance, and are able 
to take full advantage of both sun and air. 
The pots must be stood on tiles, slates, wood, 
or anything to prevent the ingress of worms. 
I prefer tiles or slates. See that, no weeds 
are allowed to develop in the soil in the pots. 

E. G. 

Chrysanthemums to develop second 
crown-buds. For several years past there 



L»lio-Cattlo)a Myra (Burford variety). From a photograph in Sir Trevor Lawrence's garden at Burford Lodge, Dorking. 


and other segments is charming, and always i 
greatly admired. The plant should be grown ! 
in an ordinary flower-pot, and may with ad¬ 
vantage be suspended from the roof of the 
house, or it may be given an elevated position I 
among the other occupants of the side stag¬ 
ing. In either position it prefers plenty of I 
light and fresh air, in order to ensure stout, 
robust pseudo-bulbs that will produce a 
strong inflorescence. The pots should be 
half filled with pieces of well-dried Fern 
rhizome taken from the peat, and the com¬ 
post may consist of one-half good fibrous 
peat ,the other half equal parts of leaf-soil 
and Sphagnum Moss ; also a good sprinkling 
of small crocks. Well mix Hie materials to- 
g ’ther, and pot moderately firmly, but not so 
hard as to prevent the water percolating 
freely through the compost. The plant may 
be repotted, if necessary, soon after growth 
commences, and until thoroughly established 
carefully moisten the compost around the 
edge of the pot, 6o as^io entice the young 
roots to lengthen outl and ait Ives 


to the sun and air all through the day are 
invaluable, and contribute largely to a suc¬ 
cessful issue. The rows should be 5 feet 
apart, running north to south. Arrange the 
plants, as far as possible, in order of height, 
in this way making them, when finally in 
position, look neat and orderly. In observing 
this rule, too, no plant can overshadow its 
neighbour. Wires, strained between stout, 
upright posts, should have been previously 
| erected in the positions allocated to the rows. 

. Two rows of wire will suffice in most cases— I 
I one about 3 feet from the ground, and another 
some 5 feet above the ground level. In the I 
case of just a few of the taller plants it may 
I be well to strain another row of wire a couple | 
of feet above the second one. These plants 
should, if possible, be arranged in a position 
by themselves. Here and there along the 
row other rather stout stakes should be in¬ 
serted. and the wires securely fixed to them ; 
this will be found very necessary when strong 
winds prevail later on in the summer. At 
I this period the plants should have the support 


has been a growing tendency to “pinch” or 
“stop” plants of exhibition Chrysanthemums 
in the early months of the year. This has 
been done with the object of inducing the 
plants to develop second crown-buds at a suit¬ 
able period in August, from which bud selec¬ 
tion good blooms invariably follow. Some 
of this pinching of the shoots begins as early 
as March, and is generally continued well 
into April, according to the variety. When 
pinched at the periods just mentioned, the 
plants should naturally produce the first 
crown-buds at the proper time, and when 
these buds are pinched out the strongest sue 
ceeding shoots are grown to the second 
crown-Dud period. In abnormal seasons, like 
the present one, however, the plants do not. 
always fulfil what is expected of them, and 
means have to be takeu to achieve this object. 
Generally speaking, plants that are pinched 
towards the end of March and the earlier 
half of April may uaturallv be expected to 
develop their first crown-buda during the 
la&i week in June. Should they fail to do 









228 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Juke 29. 1907 


this, the plants should be pinched again, and 
the resulting shoots should be grown on to 
the next buds, which will be the equivalent 
of second crowns. By the 6ame rule, plants 
that were pinched in the latter half of April, 
with the object of retaining second crown 
buds, should be expected to develop the first 
crown series by the end of the first week in 
July. If the buds are not forthcoming, the 
point of the shoot should be pinched out, the 
strongest succeeding shoots grown on, and 
the next series of buds secured. It is a good 
plan to keep the plants on the “dry side” 
after the pinching. We have always found 
this has helped forward the development of 
the resulting shoots, and the buds subse¬ 
quently as a consequence.—A. It. H. 

VEGETABLES. 

AUTUMN AND SPRING CABBAGES. 
June is a good month to make sowings of St. 
John’s Day, Little Pixie, and Defiance, ordi¬ 
nary Cabbages; also Hardy Green and 
Rosette Coleworts, and Dwarf Green Curled, 
and Dwarf Gem Savoys, securing from such 
sowings hearts to cut from November till 
March or April. It is easy to make sowings, 
and very small ones of each variety suffice. 
With the soil so moist, growth would be 
rapid, and an abundant supply of plants 
easily ensured. The chief considcrafions in 
sowing seeds of the Cabbage family is to do 
so thinly in shallow drills, taking care, 
should there be at the time exceptional dry 
ness, that the drills be soaked with water 
just before sowing the seeds. It is better 
after covering up with line dry soil to leave 
it in that condition than to again give water, 
as the tendency then is for the fine surface 
soil on the seeds to bake. Ere germination 
begins, however, the sowings should be pro¬ 
tected from birds by nets laid over some 
well-branched Pea sticks laid on the ground, 
or some similar protection must be given. 
Slugs and snails may do injury, but dustings 
of slacked lime, or of soot, given in the even 
ing, will prevent further injury from those 
pests. In the case of bird depredations, 
those lynx-eyed creatures detect the newly- 
germinated seeds, .and pull them up, almost 
before the gardener is aware that germina¬ 
tion has begun. The- best of all protection 
is by means of nets, as in that way preven¬ 
tion, which is better than cure, is furnished. 
Once a good stock of plants is raised, it is 
so easy to put out a few' at a time, as cir¬ 
cumstances or space permit. It is not by one 
simultaneous planting, but by many succes¬ 
sive ones, that a long succession of Cabbages 
is maintained. Again, the securing of large 
hearts is the least consideration. Ear better 
have two or three nice small, tender ones than 
on (3 large heart. Also, plants of the varieties 
named do not generally produce large hearts 
or leafage, and can, therefore, be planted 
much more closely than is usually the case. 
Market growers generally put out Coleworts 
12 inches apart each way. Any small heart¬ 
ing Cabbage or Savoy may be similarly plan¬ 
ted, the stems being pulled when the hearts 
are cut, and the ground thus cleared. For 
late winter sprouts it is better to depend on 
Scotch, Cottager, or other Kales than on 
Cabbage or Savoy stems. As a rule, ground 
that has carried mid-season or later Potatoes 
just levelled suffices for autumn and winter 
Cabbages. It is, if previously manured for 
the Potatoes, quite rich enough, and is all 
the better for being fairly close or firm. 
Hard 6tem growth enables the plants to with¬ 
stand severe frosts with comparative ease. 

In sowing Cabbage seeds for the produc¬ 
tion of plants to stand the winter and heart 
in in the spring, some consideration should 
be given to the general conditions of the 
weather, and its influence on the soil. Last 
year the soil was exceptionally warm, and 
sowings made at the end of July and early in 
August did promote early growth, lienee the 
bolting off to flower so much complained of 
this spring. If the coming summer be cool 
and moist, sowings of April, Flower of 
Spring, EUain's Early, Mein’s No. 1, First 
and Best, or other very early heartere, may 
be made with safety at the end of July. If a 
warm, dry time, the»-^he second jveek in 
August is 60 on enoifch. /The of 


sowing and protection should be precisely the 
same ns those advised for summer plantings. 
October is an excellent month for 6uch plant¬ 
ing, although from July sowings the planting 
may be done at the end of September. It is 
wise, however, always to make a further sow¬ 
ing of seed of the same or other varieties, if 
larger be preferred, during the third week in 
August, as sueeesKional plants for putting 
out are ensured. Whilst in putting out the 
first breadth from the seed bed it is the rule 
to lift, the strongest plants, yet is it wise to 
east aside any that seem to be unduly strong, 
as these arc apt to be rogues, and may either 
bolt prematurely to flower in the spring or 
give large, coarse-hearted varieties that are 
undesirable. At either season Cabbage 
plants should not be roughly pulled from the 
seed rows when collected for planting. It is 
wisest to loosen the soil with a hand fork in 
lifting the plants, as then they come out with 
roots quite unharmed. Such plants, where 
to be planted near, should be lifted and 
planted a few at a time, to prevent roots from 
dying. When plants have to be purchased, 
the roots are usually very dry. and need a 
good soaking in water first. It is a good plan 
also to immerse the roots, doing a handful of 
plants at a time, in a mixture of cow-dung, 
or clay, soot, soapy water, enough to make 
a thick paste, and just a little paraffin mixed 
in it. giving the roots a good dip in the solu¬ 
tion before planting. A. D. 

QUALITY OF VEGETABLES. 

Size is, and always must be, a desirable 
quality in vegetables, but when it is obtained 
at the expense of succulence, flavour, and 
other good points, then striving after it be¬ 
comes a distinct loss. One of the commonest 
vegetables is the Cabbage, and it is the rule 
in almost every garden to grow large heads 
and let them develop into great, white, hard 
monstrosities as big ns a football. What a 
difference there is between the flavour of 
these and a nice little green Cabbage just 
beginning to turn yellowish-white at the 
heart, a great many people do not know, be¬ 
cause they have never tried the latter. Beet¬ 
root, again, is never so good ns when the 
roots are about 2 inches or 3 inches in 
diameter, and the large, tough roots obtained 
by sowing early on heavily-manured soil are 
fit only for cattle feeding. Asparagus is 
often asked for with thick stems, blanched 
fc)r nearly their whole length of a foot or so ; 
but where is the comparison between them 
and the nice crisp shoots with green tops 
just bursting? The one is coarse and insipid 
in flavour, the other delicate and tender; 
besides, the sinall ones are easier to grow. 
Big Onions are often grown for the market 
and exhibition, but there are more good solid 
qualities in a peck of nice, well ripened little 
bulbs than in a bushel of the big ones, while 
the keeping qualities of the latter are well 
known to the poor. Many other instances 
could be given. On the other hand, there 
are some varieties that may be good and yet 
large. The modern varieties of Peas, for in¬ 
stance, are far larger than the old round 
seeded kinds, but these have as well other 
excellent qualities to recommend them. Some 
of the newer varieties of Cos Lettuces grow 
to an immense size, but, if quickly grown on 
good soil, are of excellent quality. We do 
not bold a brief for small nnd badly-culti¬ 
vated produce; far from it. There is no¬ 
thing worse than vegetables grown slowly on 
poor soil, as they are always tough and crude 
in flavour. Nor would we decry 6ize in most 
kinds if quality at the same time is kept in 
mind. But one bad point, encouraged only 
too often by careless or ignorant judges at 
our exhibitions, is the favouritism shown to 
vegetables that have only size to recommend 
them, without anv reference to table quality. 
—American Gardening. 


NOTES AND HEl'LIES. 

Tomatoes failing to set I .“hall l»t* much 
nblicod if you will tell me the reason and remedy 
for Tomato-buds falling? I have a few plants in a 
t old lean to greenhouse facing south, and no sooner 
do the flowers wither and tlie fruit commence to set, 
than tho buds, with about \ inch stalk, fall oil. It 
is not from over-watering, as I use the water-can 
very sparingly. I have experienced the same trouble 
before when growing them outdoors.—S. L>. M. 

[Want of abundance of sunshine and light 


may be the cause of failing to set. When 
the plants smother each other the flowers 
open feebly and are very deficient in pollen, 
and either drop off wholesale or fail to set. 
The heaviest crops, as a rule, are set on 
those plants trained thinly up the roofs of 
houses, and at this time of year there is no 
necessity to tap these smartly towards mid¬ 
day, the pollen effecting a perfect set with¬ 
out this aid. At the same time, if you have 
not tried this plan, we should advise you to 
commence now. Either tap the bunches of 
flowers with a Hazel twig or else the stems 
of the plants generally with a stick padded 
with cotton wool. If the flowers are not 
sufficiently exposed to the light, partially 
shorten the leaves, the bettor to admit more 
sunshine. Grossness of plants is often a 
frequent cause of failure to set well, and if 
yours are extra rank growing, reducing the 
leaves to about half their original size will 
tend to check this, giving less water than 
previously helping in the same direction. 
Some varieties—Early Ruby in particular— 
usually 6ct such very heavy lower clusters of 
fruit that this weakens the growth consider¬ 
ably. and the later formed flowers fail to set 
in these cases. The remedy would be more 
lilieral root treatment. It may be the variety 
cultivated is at fault. Amateurs would do 
well to cultivate Ham Green Favourite or 
varieties of that type, leaving it to others to 
experiment with the more doubtful setters.] 
Late Broccoli on north borders.— We 
have too many kinds of Broccoli—especially 
so called late ones. It is bew ildering to those 
not conversant with them to know what 
kinds to select, as many of the so called raid- 
season kinds will continue the supply well 
into May. I can see no difference in the 
kinds of to-day for lateness compared to 
those we grew forty years ago. Neither is 
there anything to be said in their favour as 
to hardiness. I admit some kinds are hardier 
than others, and I have seen nothing to sur¬ 
pass a good stock of Wilcove’s, which cer¬ 
tainly is not so hardy as Late Queen, Eclipse, 
Model, and others. Late Broccoli locks up 
the ground from other crops, and this is a 
serious matter in sinall gardens. This may 
be overcome by putting a single row at the 
end of two or three quarters in the garden. 
This year I had a difficulty in keeping up 
a supply of Broccoli from open quarters after 
the first week in June. Extending the season 
may be had by planting on a north border, 
as often such plants do not suffer from frost 
so much as those in the open.—J. G. F. 

Late Celery. —When Celery is required as 
late in spring as it is possible to get it, the 
seed should be sown on a warm border in the 
open early in May. Space enough must be 
allowed for the seed-bed to produce a suf¬ 
ficient number of plants without transplant¬ 
ing them, an operation which, in the case of 
late Celery, would cheek its growth too much, 
unless treated with more than ordinary care. 
Therefore, if more plants should come up 
than are wanted, they must be pulled out as 
soon as they have grown an inch in height, 
in order that the plants left may 6tand from 
3 inches to 4 inches apart each way. It is 
desirable to select a dwarf-growing hardy 
Celery for this purpose. I find Major Clarke’s 
Solid Red stands the winter beet. As every 
encouragement must be given the seed to 
vegetate, the surface soil must be kept moist. 
Place a couple of mats on the bed as 60 on 
ns the seed is sown, pegging them down to 
prevent the wind from blowing them off. If 
the mats are allowed to remain on the bed 
for about eight or nine days, the seedlings 
soon appear after they are removed. The 
treatment of Celery to stand through the win¬ 
ter differs somewhat from that given main 
crops. In the first place, no attempt is made 
to get it so large, nor is it expected to be so 
well blanched. Therefore, such deep trenches 
as are used for ordinary Celery are not re¬ 
quired. Dig out a trench 9 inches deep, and 
in this place 3 inches of rotten manure and 
2 inches of soil on tlie top. The trench is 
then ready for planting. The middle cf 
August is quite soon enough to get out the 
plants. When planted, give a good soaking 
of water, if the weather is dry, and then leave 
them to take care of themselves until the 
loginning of November, when each plant is 
tied up with a piece of matting, and a little 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




Ji/NK 29. 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


229 


earth worked down from the sides so as to 
earth them lip about 2 inches in height. Half 
of the stock is left in this condition to go 
through the winter, and the other half is 
earthed up altogether about the middle of 
December. If the winter is not too severe, 
the partially earthed-up plants sustain no in¬ 
jury, and then they receive their final earth¬ 
ing early in "February. Under this treatment 
they keep later in spring than the others, 
but in order to make sure of their standing 
through a hard winter they must he earthed 
before severe frost sets in. 

TREES AND SHRUBS. 


wetzkyana, a stiff, rather upright, growing 
species from the Caucasus, with large, showy 
flowers of a distinct shade of red; Pyrus 
prunifolia, also known as the Siberian Crab, 
of which there are many varieties; Pyrus 
Ringo, also of the floribunda class, with a 
profusion of bright coloured flowers in spring, 
while the small yellow fruits in autumn are 
also very attractive ; Pyrus Scheideckeri, a 
hybrid between P. floribunda and P. pruni¬ 
folia, combining the features of its parents ; 
and Pyrus spectabilis, a very old species, 
native of China and Japan. This last forms a 
round-headed tree, and, when laden with 
rosy-tinted blossoms, is very handsome. Of 
this there is also a variety with semi double 
blossoms. * X. 



THE AMERICAN CRAB APPLE (PYRUS 
CORONARIA). 


PAULOWNIA IMPERIALS. 


The beauty of the Apple orchards when the | This fine flowering tree, a native of China, 
trees are in full bloom is recognised by every 1 may be generally regarded as hardy, though 
artist and lover of Na¬ 
ture, and of the dif¬ 
ferent species and 
varieties which are 
grown solely for their 
ornamental qualities an 
extensive selection 
might be readily made. 

Most of them, however 
dissimilar they may bo 
in other respects, all 
flower at about much the 
same time, but the Ame¬ 
rican Crab, in addition 
to its other desirable 
qualities, is later in 
blooming than most of 
its allies, and on this 
account it is particu¬ 
larly valuable. Another 
noteworthy item is the 
pleasing odour of its 
blossoms, which is de¬ 
cidedly suggestive of 
the scent of the Violet. 

The American, or Gar¬ 
land-flowering Crab, is 
native of a considerable 
portion of the Eastern 
United States, where it 
is said to attain a 
height of 15 feet to 
30 feet, according to 
soil and climate. In 
this country it is, com¬ 
pared with many of its 
relatives, of somewhat 
stiff growth, while the 
frequent lobing of the 
leaves forms another 
distinguishing feature. 

The flowers, which are 
of a deep rosy tint 
when in Ihe bud state, 
are in the interior of a 
paler hue, this feature 
becoming even more 
pronounced after ex¬ 
pansion. The fruit is 
green, and of but small 
account, though it has 
been used for pre¬ 
serves. The accom¬ 
panying illustration re¬ 
presents a very fine variety, flore-pleno, 
whose flowers have two or three rows of 
petals, and. as may be seen, they are borne 
in dense clusters. The individual blooms 
are often a couple of inches in diameter, and, 
as may be imagined, they make a goodly 
show. In other respects this variety is a 
counterpart of the type, and, being obtain¬ 
able from most of the better class tree and 
shrub nurseries, it should be made a note of 
by those who intend planting in the autumn. 

As a specimen tree on a small lawn it is seen 
to great advantage. 

Of the Apple or Malus section of Pyrus, to 
which the above named species belongs, there 
are many beautiful kinds, notably Pyrus bac- 
cata (the Siberian Crab) and its weeping 
variety, Pyrus floribuntla, of a distinct 
spreading growth, and with coral-red flower- 
buds, and its variety atrosanguinea, whose 
expanded blossoms are very richly Coloured ; 

Pyrus Halleana, 6uggeetive of P. floribunda 


The double-flowered American Crab Apple (Pyrus coronaria fl.-pl.). 
From a photograph in Messrs. Paul’s nurseries at Cheshunt. 


but with semi-double/flowers ; 

Go 


it is rare to see it in its greatest perfection of 
bloom in this country. Its flower-buds, be 
ing formed in the autumn, are exposed to the 
action of the winter frosts, while those that 
occur in the spring, when the buds are swell¬ 
ing, are particularly disastrous, the buds 
being so crippled that they are unable to 
expand, with the result that the long flower- 
shoots, holding ten to twenty buds, often only 
perfect two or three blossoms. For this 
reason a sheltered site in a favoured locality, 
where spring frosts are rarely severe, is best 
adapted to the Paulownia’s needs. Where 
the buds are unharmed, a large specimen 
30 feet or so in height, with a wide spread 
of branches, is a glorious sight in its flower¬ 
ing season, the large, violet-blue blossoms, 
resembling a Gloxinia in form, studded along 
the whole length of the flower-shoot being 
extremely beautiful. Last winter the weather 
in the south-west was exceptionally severe, 
and many tender plants succumbed, but a 
Niedz fine Paulownia in the public gardens at Tor¬ 


quay has never flowered so well as this year. 
The example in question is growing immedi¬ 
ately in front of a cliff some 70 feet in height, 
which protects it from the north and east, 
while it is open to the south and west. In 
France and Spain the Paulownia generally 
flowers magnificently, and I well remember 
the splendid sight presented, early in April, 
some years ago, by the large trees of this 
species surrounding the great square at 
Ferrol, and whicli were then in full flower. 
Paulownia* are also extremely valuable for 
sub tropical effect if set out from 3 feet to 
4 feet apart, and cut down to within 1 inch 
of the previous year’s growth in the spring, 
just as they are beginning to break. Then, 
if confined to a single stem, this will attain 
a height of from 10 feet to 12 feet in a sea¬ 
son, and bear enormous leaves, often exceed¬ 
ing 2 feet in diameter. Naturally, no flowers 
are produced where this method is followed. 

S. W. Fitzherbert. 


CHIMONANTHUS FRAGRANS FROM 
REEDS. 

There is no doubt that the Winter Sweet 
(Chiinonanthus fragrans) is one of the 
most delightfully scented shrubs of our gar¬ 
dens, and each year in its season of flower 
there are invariably references made to its 
claim for space, preferably against a shelter¬ 
ing wall. During a visit recently paid to 
Chedington Court, Dorset, a specimen grow 
ing in the terrace garden, and trained to the 
wall of the mansion, was noticed bearing a 
profusion of its peculiarly shaped seed-pods, 
many of this year’s growth, and some of hist 
season’s. One of these year-old pods brought 
home gave but one seed, and, being sown in 
a small pot, produced a plant in less than a 
fortnight, apparently as vigorous as a seed¬ 
ling can be, and destined, I hope, to become 
a specimen on a sunny wall. Usually it is 
allotted a place on the wall of the dwelling, 
because it is considered tender, and requires 
some such protection, but I have recollec¬ 
tions of specimens of great age growing on 
the lawn. One in particular I remember to 
have seen on an island lawn at Longford 
Castle, Wilts. Here, certainly, though sur¬ 
rounded by a river, it had much tree shelter, 
which may have much influence in frosty 
spells. Be that as it may, the shrub was a 
large one, and I learnt that it bloomed with 
freedom in the early months of the year. 
This shrub is propagated from 6eeds and 
layers, the latter, no doubt, affording the 
earlier flowering, though less vigorous, plant. 
Despite the fact that the Chimonanthus has 
been in cultivation considerably over one 
hundred years, it is comparatively rare in 
gardens even now. There is no real beauty 
in the character or colour of the flower, but 
the scent which pervades the air in its im¬ 
mediate surroundings compels the visitor to 
halt and inquire the source of the fragrance. 
My experience of it is that some years of 
growth and training elapse before it flowers 
—that is, when there is a normal freedom of 
growth, but once this is realised then it 
blooms freely. The seeds are hard-shelled, 
which suggested cutting the outer walls with 
a knife, so that the germ could make an easier 
exit, and, apparently, this was effectual, 
judging by the fact that so few days passed 
before germination took place. Beside the 
species there is a larger flowering form 
known as grandiflora, but it is said size of 
bloom is gained at the expense of fragrance, 
so that there is no real gain. Scent lias first 
claim ; larger blossoms are more decorative 
in a vase when employed for this purpose. 
Ordinary garden soil enriched with a little 
leaf-mould and decayed manure seems to be 
what the Chimonanthus requires, and no 
doubt a sunny aspect sets up maturity, which 
will the sooner provide flower. W. S. 


White Wistaria, the.— Early in May 1 found 
this in fine bloom on a wall at Cricket St. Thomas, 
near Chard. It. had been planted four years, and 
was growing splendidly. Near by was growing the 
typical form in splendid bloom, also. The white 
form should he most useful to plant on red buildings, 
and if trained over projections, so that the flowers 
can hang down, their value Is very much enhanced. 
Frequently the Wistaria is planted in positions quite 
unfUted for it. Where it can be done, the Wistaria 
looks well planted at the foot of some old tree, 
allowing it to ramble over it.—DORSET. 








230 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


Junk 29, 1907 


GARDEN WORK. 

Conservatory.— No fire-heat will be re 
quired now, and the boiler flues should be 
thoroughly cleaned out, and, in the case of 
the Rochford boilers, the top of the boiler 
should be uncovered and the space between 
the tubes scraped and cleaned, replacing the 
covers ready for lighting fires in the autumn. 
These boilers must be kept clean to do all the 
work they are capable of. Now that the 
weather has settled a little, the ventilation 
must, be very free night as well as day. In 
windy weather or during heavy rains the ven¬ 
tilation will l>e reduced, but in mild, calm 
weather it is impossible to give too much 
ventilation. Under this treatment plants 
last longer and the growth is clean and 
strong. For all the hardiest plants, especi¬ 
ally those which have done flowering, a 
sheltered place should be found outside. 
There will be no excess for overcrowding 
now, and really good specimens may be 
placed in a prominent position. Climbers 
should be gone over and the growth regu¬ 
lated before they grow into a tangled mass. 
Of course, small conservatories must have 
shade, and many of us, on the score of 
economy, are using permanent shading, in 
the shaj>e of summer cloud or lime. Of 
course, blinds are best, as then when the 
sun is not shining the plants may have the 
full light. Liquid manure may bo given to 
all plants coming into flower, us (luring the 
time the buds arc forming the plant, should 
have some extra support. Camellias and 
Orange-trees in tubs or pots will be letter 
outside now iu a sheltered place, if possible, 
but they will require the same attention out¬ 
side as was formerly given indoors, and if the 
water is pure the syringe may l>e used every 
evening. Use the hose or the syringe freely 
over the Chrysanthemums every day during 
hot weather. Continue the potting of late 
Chrysanthemums. The early plants will re¬ 
quire a good deal of pinching and tying. All 
Roses and other shrubs in pots that were 
forced should now be plunged outside to save 
watering and to prevent the wind injuring 
them. 

Stove.— Tt is not difficult to raise the 
Amaryllis family from seeds, which are best 
sown as soon as ripe. Himantophyllums or 
Clivias are also easily raised from seeds sown 
now. We sowed the produce of a couple of 
seed-pods about three weeks, ago, and little 
sprouts are now pushing through, and will 
soon be ready for potting off. We find this 
family flower well when placed in the open 
air for a couple of months, fully exposed. 
Vallota purpurea under similar treatment 
flowers abundantly, and such hard wooded 
stove plants as Francises as and Gardenias are 
more free flowering after a time in the open 
air to complete the ripening. What is termed 
the cool stove will do without fires now, and 
the ventilation should be free and almost 
continuous. Torenias and other flowering 
subjects in baskets may be taken to the con¬ 
servatory and hung up in the shade. The 
only chance of giving baskets and Fern-balls 
sufficient water is to take them down and 
dip them in a tank, and then hang them up 
again. A dip ones a week will keep them in 
good condition. The same course can be 
followed with Orchids on blocks and in 
baskets which are difficult to water in any 
other way. Allamandas and other plants com¬ 
ing into flower may have liquid manure often 
now. 

Some winter-flowering: plants. Cycla¬ 
mens will now be ready for the flowering 
pots. Good plants can be grown in 5-inoh 
pots, but the largest crowns will make fine 
plants in 6-inch pots. They will do well in 
good loam and leaf-mould, peat, and sand ; 
half will l>e Kettering loam and the remainder 
about equal parts of leaf-mould and peat, 
with a very free admixture of sand and about 
1 lb. per bushel of a good artificial plant 
food. Pot firmly, and keep the corms fairly 
well up. Keep through the summer on coal- 
ash beds in frames lightly shaded when the 
sun is hot, but close and sprinkle earty in the 
afternoon, and open again at night. Some¬ 
what. similar treatment will suit Primulas 
and Cinerarias, and all of them will be found 
very useful in winter^ 

Digitized by GOOglC 


In the Vineries. —The fluctuating weather 
has required careful watching, esj>ecially as 
regards ventilation and damping floors. The 
mid-day damping is very necessary in a 
modern house to sustain the foliage. The 
scalding of the berries generally appears when 
the stones are forming, if it appears at all. 
It is sometimes caused by very close pinch¬ 
ing, and it is commonly found on Muscat and 
other Vines where the root action is iu a 
sluggish 6tate. Root lifting and an improve¬ 
ment of the border will help to remove it. 
This is, of course, a different thing from 
cracking, which is mainly caused by a too dry 
condition, followed by a flush of wet. The 
extreme dryness tightens the skins of the 
berries, and when moisture is given freely 
the sudden pressure crocks the berries. The 
ventilation is a very important matter now, 
especially early in the morning ; in fact, a 
well-built vinery need not be altogether closed 
now, as a continual circulation is essential 
to healthy foliage, and the swelling and 
maturing of the crop in a large measure de¬ 
pend upon the action of the foliage. A well 
ventilated house seldom breeds red-spider, 
unless the roots and the atmosphere are in 
too dry a condition. 

In the house.— This is a good time to repot 
any Ferns which may require more root 
space. If the roots are healthy the plants 
may be moved to a larger pot with the ball 
entire, or nearly so ; but if the plants arc 
not all one could wish, some of the old, sour 
6 oil should l>e removed, and the plant may go 
back into a clean, well drained pot of the 
same size. 

Outdoor garden. -Violas and Pansies 
which began flowering early will he helped 
by having the long shoots pegged down and 
a light top-dressing of rich coinpost spread 
evenly among the plants. They will then go on 
flowering, as the shoots pegged down will 
root and form independent plants. Aquilegias 
are very pretty border plants ; the hybrids 
are charming flowers for cutting. SeeJs may 
l>e sown now in a box in a cold frame anil 
transplanted when large enough. The com¬ 
mon kinds may be sown anywhere. They may 
Income naturalised in the wild garden. 
When Tulips go out of flower, and the foliage 
is ripe, lift, dry and store the bulbs till the 
autumn. This ‘refers more especially to the 
old-fashioned florist kinds, which are not 
grown so much as they were formerly. 
Ranunculuses may also be lifted when ripe. 
The beds will come in for Begonias, or Bal¬ 
sams, or Celosias, which do well if the soil 
is good. Everybody should have a bed of 
late-sown Asters as a stop-gap, as blanks in 
the beds at any season are disagreeable. 
Dahlias are growing freely now, and must lie 
carefully tied, to prevent breakage from wind. 
The dwarf Pompons make showy beds, pegged 
down at first, and then permitted to grow. 
Standard Fuchsias and Heliotropes are being 
used in the best gardens now. They look 
well planted over a contrasting groundwork of 
Tufted Pansies or Verbenas, which are corn¬ 
ing to the front again. Let us hope they will 
not be weakened by overpropagation in heat. 

Fruit garden. Finish thinning Peaches 
and Apricots and complete the regulation of 
the young growth. Do not overcrowd either 
fruits or young wood. A good deal can be 
done from this onwards by mulching and 
watering, especially the trees on a warm 
south wall. It requires a great deal of cour¬ 
age to thin the fruits sufficiently to keep the 
trees in health and bear well. Branch dying 
in Apricots has puzzled and perplexed gar¬ 
deners for a long time, and the difficulty has 
not yet been solved. There is, probably, 
more than one cause. Planting in light, 
rather loose, over-rich 6oil has had something 
to do with it. Overcropping has also had 
some influence. I have in my mind within 
the last forty years several cases where the 
trees made splendid progress at first, hut as 
soon as the wall was covered branch-dying 
set in, and the worried gardener, after pon¬ 
dering over the matter, came to the conclu¬ 
sion that the turfy loam in which the trees 
were planted was too stimulating, and that 
more lime, wood-ashes, and even sand or 
road-scrapings, were an improvement, and 
later experience strengthens this view. Feed 
on the surface, if the trees bear freelv, but 
do not manure the roots. 


Vegetable garden.— Second early and 
early Peas may yet be sown. A good second 
crop may often be gathered from late Peas. 
To obtain this second crop every pod must 
be gathered as soon as fit for use, and the 
plants must be well nourished. Sowing Peas 
on deeply broken up land, where the roots can 
run down into cool soil, helps to keep the 
haulm healthy and vigorous, and a mulch of 
manure on eaeli side of the rows enables the 
plants to keep up their vigour, and as soon 
as the first crop of pods is gathered the 
second crop of blossom appears, and if mil¬ 
dew is kept off, the pods swell and the crop 
comes to perfection. Some kinds do better in 
this way than others. No Plus Ultra is re 
liable; Huntingdon, an old Pea of the 
Champion of England type, was good for a 
second crop, and British Queen, a tall, robust 
Marrow, was excellent also. Most of these 
Peas are still in existence under other names 
—changed, a little, no doubt, and, possibly, 
improved, but any free growing, robust Mar¬ 
row Pea, if grown well and kept free from 
mildew, will bear a second crop. Peas are 
among our most important crops, and the 
season cannot lie too long. The ordinary 
routine work will include the destruction of 
weeds and insects, and, probably, there will 
be some watering, especially in the case of 
Celery, I^ettuces, and Cauliflowers. 

-. E. Hobday. 

THE COMING WEEK'S WORK. 

Extracts from a Garden Diary. 

duly 1st.—We are busy now pricking off 
biennial and perennial seedlings into nurserv 
beds, and this work will be carried on as 
opportunity offers. They are in rows from 
12 inches to 15 inches apart, to give room 
for the use of the hoe between them. All 
newly-budded Roses of last year have been 
supported by stakes and tied to prevent the 
wind blowing them out. In some eases, buds 
have been thinned. Liquid manure is given 
where needed. 

July 2nd.- Fruit trees and bushes are be- 
ing looked over and washed with the garden 
engine front time to time to destroy insects. 
If soap and paraffin are used, the two are 
boiled together in a small quantily of water 
to blend, and are afterwards diluted to the 
proper strength. A pound of soap and a 
quart of oil are used to make ten gallons, but 
the strength is sometimes altered, to meet 
special cases. Of course, other insecticides 
are used also, but soap and oil form a cheap 
and effective wash. 

July 3rd .—Wo are still layering Straw¬ 
berries into small pots or otherwise to secure 
enough plants for new beds as well as for 
forcing. Fruit of most kinds has been, or 
will, be netted up, ns the birds are trouble¬ 
some. Flies on Red Currants have been re¬ 
moved by cutting off the ends of the shoots 
on which they had commenced operations. A 
free use has been made of mulch, as far as 
the manure supply goes, and in other ea.<H6 
the hoe has been used freely. 

./uly Jfth .— Put in more cuttings of Hy¬ 
drangeas into boxes, these being stood in 
frames and kept clone for a time. Cuttings 
of choice hardy shrubs are being propagated 
in a specially prepared bed in a shady posi¬ 
tion under hand-lights. Choice Pinks will 
shortly be put in under similar conditions. 
An old Strawberry plantation, as soon us 
the fruits are all gathered, will lie chopped 
off rather deeply, the rubbish burnt, and the 
ground planted with late Broccoli. 

July 5th. There is a good deal of pegging 
and staking to do among flowering plants, 
which must be attended to. Hollyhocks have 
been heavily mulched with manure and 
watered. Made a last sowing of early kinds 
of Peas. Turnips will he sown after earlv 
Potatoes. Planted out more Celery with 
lettuces on the ridges. Lettuces and En¬ 
dives are sown often now. Tlanted more 
Leeks in trenches. 

July Gth .—Commenced budding standard 
Briers. Trenched up a piece of ground for 
Strawberries. This is usually done in win¬ 
ter, and a crop of Potatoes taken first, but 
our supply from that source is insufficient 
now. Begonias nnd other things for winter 
flowering have been placed in 5-inch and 
6 inch pots, and placed in frames which will 
Ik* kept close for a tune and shaded. Cyclar 
mens are recriving^similar treatment. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




June 29, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


m 


LAW AND CUSTOM. 


Cutting neighbour s hedge-— I live in a semi¬ 
detached nouse, with about 20 feet of front garden. 
There is an iron railing, 3 feet high, parting the two 
gardens. Tenant planted, on his side of the rail, a 
Privet hedge, which has grown high enough to ob¬ 
struct a view up the road I used to have from the 
front windows. May my neighbour grow this hedge 
as high as he likes? The hedge comes part of the 
way through the railings on my side. May I, with¬ 
out giving notice to my neighbour, cut this Privet 
hedge half-way across on the top? Although it is 
planted next door, it grows through the iron rail that 
separates the two gardens.—A. I). B. 

[You are entitled to clip away every portion 
of the hedge which overhang* your garden — 
that ia to say, which cornea through to your 
side of the railings. With regard to cutting 
the top, you cannot do this, but, you can take 
action against your neighbour to make him 
abate the nuisance caused to you. I should 
think if you cut it—or threaten to do so, as I 
suggest—he will see the wisdom of coming to 
terms.—B arrister.] 


BIRDS. 


Death of Indian Mynah (L. F. S.).— This 
bird was very fat, and appears to have 
suffered from overfeeding or from partaking 
of food unsuitable to its nature. The proper 
diet for these birds is boiled Rice and milk— 
the Rice eo prepared that the grains easily 
separate. They should also have ants’-eggs, 
meal worms, wasp grubs, and other inseeis, 
dried yolk of egg, and lean, raw meat minced 
fine. Boiled Carrot is also good for them, 
and fruit, such as Grapes, Banana, and ripe 
Pear. Omitting to keep up a constant supply 
of grit-sand is often the cause of illness and 
death in pet birds. It is a good plan to sup¬ 
ply the grit in a food tin placed inside the 
cage. Tin's appeared to be a young bird. 

8 . 8. G. ’ 

Parrot losing its feathers (Pretty Polly). 
—This trouble may arise from debility, and 
it would be well to administer phosphates, 
with the object of imparting tone to the blood 
and strength to the muscular fibres of the 
body. Parrish’s Chemical Food is a very ex¬ 
cellent preparation for this purpose, and may 
be given in doses of ten to twelve drops on a 
lump of sugar or piece of soft cake, once or 
twice a day. This preparation also supplies 
some of the material necessary for the ela¬ 
boration of new feathers. You might give a 
tonic in the form of a rusty nail or small 
piece of sulphate of iron in the drinking 
water. Supply your bird with green food, 
such as Lettuce, Cabbage, and a few Green 
Peas, when in season. Its diet, while 
nourishing, must not be too stimulating, and 
no animal food in any form should be given. 
You might vary the diet, giving good sound 
Hemp, Canary-seed, Dari, Maize, and Buck¬ 
wheat in turn. Eo not keep the bird in a 
high temperature, but avoid draughts. Give 
it a piece of cuttlefish-bone to nibble at, and 
a constant supply of grit to keep the digestive 
organs in good order.—8. S. G. 


AQUARIA. 

Goldfish (Mr*. Bradley). —In order to keep 
goldfish in a healthy condition, a well- 
arranged aquarium should b^ provided for 
them ; the glass globes in which they are so 
commonly kept are very unsuitable, and, 
viewed through the sides, give the fish an 
unnatural, grotesque appearance. The shape 
and make of the aquarium should allow a 
largs surface of water to l >2 exposed to the 
air in proportion to its depth, in order that 
a large quantity of oxygen may be absorbed 
by the water in proportion to its bulk, oxy¬ 
gen being so necessary to the occupants of 
the aquarium. At. the bottom should be 
placed about 2 inches of clean river-sand, 
and over this a layer of fine gravel. A few- 
aquatic plants should then be planted in the 
sand, and the roots well covered with the 
gravel to render the setting firm and per 
manent. The best water is that from a river 
or pond, hard water being very unsuitable, 
and causing disease among the fish. The 
water should be supplied by means of a small 
watering-can with a fine rose, so as to dis¬ 
turb the sand as little a^-p^ssible. The* fish 
should no^, however 


ue as- possible, lheihsfi 


least ten days or a fortnight, in order that 
the plants may have time to commence 
growth and throw off oxygen. When the 
plants are well established, the aquarium will 
support much more life than when they are 
only just beginning to grow. The water, if 
well balanced and properly cared for, should 
not need changing often ; a little muBt be 
added from time to time to make up loss 
from evaporation. A few water-snails m the 
aquarium help to keep the gluss free from 
green growth. The best food for these fish 
is vermicelli, finely crushed ; this should be 
thrown sparingly upon the top of the water, 
but give no more than will be consumed at. 
once._ 

BEES. 

Bees in old hives (Robert W. Kennedy).— 
If your bees are in plain box hives without 
frames you would find it very difficult to re¬ 
move them to new hives. If, however, your 
hives contain movable frames, you would find 
it a simple matter to transfer combs and 
bees. You would only have to lift out each 
comb, one by one, and place them in the 
same relative position in the new hives as 
they occupied in the old ones, after giving 
them a little smoke to keep the bees under 
subjection. If the combs are fixtures in your 
old hives it would be advisable to let the 
bees qpntinue to occupy them for one more 
season, and put any swarms they may throw 
off into new frame hives. Then, at the end 
of the season, drive the bees from the old 
hives and join them to those in the new hives. 
You would thereby make the stocks in the 
new hives very strong, and able to do a lot of 
work for you next season. S. S. G. 

BOOKS. 

“FLOWER DECORATION IN THE 
HOUSE.’ * 

The title of this book explains its object, 
and a very good object, too, in guiding people 
to make the best use of tne plants that 
grow about them in forming a garden in the 
house. And in doing this we may learn more 
about the flowers. If brought from the gar¬ 
den, or shrubbery, or even hedgerow, and 
s-',»en near at hand, man}' flowers reveal them¬ 
selves to us in aspects that we do not always 
see in them out-of-doors—especially those 
that open and shut every day. The book em¬ 
bodies the wisdom and good taste of the 
authoress, and is likely to be of great service 
to many who care for good flower effects in 
their homes. Her plan is to take the months 
and reap the best flowers of each for her pur¬ 
pose, telling how to place them to the best 
advantage, and paying a good deal of atten 
tion to happy combinations of colour. 

The best light ever shed on this question is 
the Japanese way of showing the beauty of the 
plant, its form and grace, which are totally 
absent in our Cauliflower ideals. This way 
has, as yet, too little influence with us, owing, 
perhaps, to the fact that few possess the 
beautiful bronze jars and vases which the 
Japanese use. But these are not at all 
essential to getting the good effect. Take a 
flower stem of the handsome Golden Iris (I. 
aurea), or a branch of Magnolia in hud. It is 
easy to place them in simple jars with good 
effect even without the pretence of the techni¬ 
cal learning which writers on Japanese 
flower arrangements dissert on. The essential 
thing for us to be learnt is the study of the 
natural form and whole beauty of the plant, 
and delight in that beauty in’simple and in 
single instances, instead of compositions of 
various things in which it is impossible to see 
the grace of any one plant. Little or no trace 
of this good influence is seen in this book— 
the arrangements, good of their kind, are 
too close and circular in outline, and, there¬ 
fore, we suggest that in future editions open 
and airy ways of showing the whole beauty of 
a single plant, or of two that go together 
well, should be shown. There are many 
things among hardy flowers, shrubs, and 
trees that invite the simpler arrangement. 


* “Flower Decoration in tne House,’' by Gertrude 
Jekyll. Illustrated. Com try Life, Ltd., 20, Tavistock- 
street, Covent Garden, W.C. 


and in no other Way can their full beauty be 
so well shown. The things helpful to this 
end are a few narrow-necked and variously- 
formed jars, often of simple material and 
colour. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

Questions.— Queries and atmvers are inserted in 
Gardening free of charge if correspondents follow these 
rides: All communications should be clearly and concisely 
written on one side of the paper only, ami addressed to 
the Editor of Gardening, 17, Furnival-street, Uolbom, 
London, F..C. tetters on business should be sent to the 
Publisher. The name, and address of the sender are 
required in addition to any designation he may desire to 
l>e used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, 
each should be on a separate piece of paper, aiut not mure 
than three queries should be sent at a time. Correspon¬ 
dents should bear in mind that, as Gardening has to be 
sent topress some time in advance of date, queries cannot 
always be replied to in the issue immediately following 
the receipt of their communication. We do not reply to 
queries by post. 

Naming fruit.— Readers who desire our help in 
naming fruit should bear in mind that several specimens 
in different stages of colour and siz*. of the same kind 
greatly assist in its determ inat ion. We have received from 
several correspondents single specimens of fruit's for 
naming, these in many cases being unripe and other¬ 
wise poor. The differences between varieties of fruits are 
in many cases so trifiina that it is necessary that three 
specimens of each kind should be sent. We can undertake 
to name only four varieties at a time, and these only when 
the above directions are observed 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

Sniilax ornatus f C. R.).-We have not met with 
8 milax ornatus for many yours, and though inquiries 
have been made of several nurserymen, we cannot 
learn of one who now keeps it in stock. Our im¬ 
pression is that it was introduced by Messrs. Linden, 
of Brussels, from whom you might possibly obtain it. 

Worms in lawn (Curator). -Lime-water is the 
best remedy. Place 12 lb. of unslacked lime in a 
barrel, and pour 3(1 gallons of water over it. stirring 
it well, and allowing it to stand for forty-eight 
hours. Water the lawn with the clear liquid, using 
a rosed water pot, during dump weather, giving a 
good soaking on the evening succeeding that on 
which a good watering has been given. This will 
bring the worms to the surface, when they can In¬ 
swept. up and cleared away—unless the worms are 
brought, to the surface in this way you cannot get 
rid of them. Certainly; when Moss and other weeds 
such as you mention appear, it is evident that the 
lawn is 'wet. and the only remedy is to have it 
thoroughly drained, if this can be done. 

Spiraeas and Deutzias (B.).-WhenSpireeashave 
done flowering the flower stems should be cut off, nnd 
the plants, after being hardened, turned out of pots, 
the drainage removed, then put out 18 inches apart 
into good garden soil, where, if occasionally well 
watered, they will make good growth. Commonly in 
gardens it is the rule to allow the plants to remain 
outdoors in this way two years, n further stock being 
used for the second year's flowering. The plants be¬ 
come all the stronger. As to Deutzias, cut back some 
of the old flowering wood, and encourage the forma- 
lion of new root-growths, as these flower best the 
following year. The plants may be treated ns ad¬ 
vised for Spirreas, or they may he kept in pots, the 
pots being plunged in ashes or Cocoa-^hre for the 
summer outdoors, and freely watered. A little liquid- 
manure given occasionally would do them good up to 
the end of August. 

Aspidistra in bad condition (S. It. B.).— The 
roots of your plant are evidently in a had state, 
judging by the two leaves you send us, and you are 
only making matters worse by giving liquid-manure. 
You say nothing as to how long they have been in 
the pots. We should advise you to turn the plant 
out of the pot and remove as much of the old soil 
as you can (in fact, if the soil is very sour, which 
evidently is the case, then wash it away by holding 
the roots under a tap), and repot into a smaller pot, 
if need be. You must, however, be guided in this 
by the amount of roots. See to it that the pot is 
clean and well drained, using as a compost equal 
oarts of loam, leaf-mould, and plenty of silver-sand, 
fie very careful with the watering until you find that 
the roots are working freely into the fresh soil. 
Avoid allowing the water to stand in the saucers, if 
vou use such, as such treatment will soon ruin the 
finest and healthiest of plants 

Pseonles not flowering (F. G. Williams).- Yon 
lo not say to which group the P iconics belong, 
though we imagine them to belong to the tree 
section by the quantity of blossoms to which you 
refer. If this is so. the plants are undoubtedly im¬ 
poverished and weak, and require feeding to make 
•lie requisite growth in spring, so that good flower¬ 
ing wood may be matured for another year. It is 
unfortunate vou left the plants so long without ad¬ 
vice as to them. You had better commence feeding 
the plants with liquid-manure, such as cow or horse- 
dung in solution, and of this you can give freely 

without fear or stint. If you are in doubt about 

the plants, the Tree-Pseony has woody stems above 
ground, while the herbaceous kinds die down to an 
underground bud or crown each year. A decided im¬ 
provement might ensue were you to dig a 2$ feet 
deep trench about the plants, and All in with rich 
soil. 

Azalea mollis after blooming (»’. G. Leiper ).- 
When flowering is over the plants must be gradually 
hardened olf. If this is well done the whole of the 
leaves will be retained in good condition, and when 

all danger from frost is over the plants may be 

plunged out-of-doors in an open spot. A bed of 
Cocoa-nut fibre refuse is the best plunging material, 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


June 23, 1907 


m 


as it keeps the roots in a uniform state of moisture. 
During the summer the plants must be carefully 
watered, and occasionally a little weak liquid-manure 
given. In this way the flower-buds will set quite 
freely, and the blossoms on established plants re¬ 
main fresh for a longer period than those that are 
just lifted from the open ground and taken into the 
greenhouse. Planting out and forcing in alternate 
years are also practised with advantage by many, 
but in cither case the principal road to success is to 
see that the plants are properly supplied with water 
throughout the summer and are not crowded up, as 
a free circulation of air is very necessary to the 
formation of flower-buds. Unless very leggy, we 
should not advise you to prune, ns they will natur¬ 
ally branch out later on, more especialy if you plant 
them out. 

Potting plants (T.).— Over-potting—that is, 
using too large pots for the needs of the plants—is 
a common defect in potting by amateurs. But, un¬ 
less one knows the respective sizes of plants, it is not 
possible to say what sizes of pots best suit them. 
Generally, taking Begonias, Pelargoniums, and simi¬ 
lar plants, the rule is to get them into about 31-inch 
pots at the first when small. Then when these have 
become pretty well filled with roots, shift them into 
other pots a size larger. Those would be 5-inch pots, 
or what are commonly called 48 ’h. In such pots 
many plants will bloom well. If they be fairly strong 
growers they may be better shifted into 6-inch or 
7-inch pots. But in all cases the shift from pot to 
pot should never be too great—that is to say, not 
from pots of 3J inches to others of 6 inches, or from 
5-inch pots to 8-incli pots at once. Very often, as a 
result of over-potting, soil becomes saturated and 
sour, because there are so few roots relatively to take 
up the moisture given. In the case of potted plants, 
because the roots are compact and well under con¬ 
trol, they are best fed by waterings of liquid-manure, 
or with Lop-dressings of artificial manure spread over 
the soil occasionally, and washed in by frequent 
waterings. That is productive of more satisfactory 
results than from over-potting. 

TREES AND SHRUBS. 

Magnolias increasing (D. Af. Groves).— Magno¬ 
lias are occasionally increased by seeds, which are, 
however, not easily obtainable, while a decided draw- 
buck to plants raised in this manner is that they 
take some years before they attain flowering size. 
Such being the case, they are in nurseries usually 
propagated either by layering or inarching. Both 
operations require great care and a considerable 
amount of patience, for layers will take three years 
before they are sufficiently rooted to separate from 
the parent plant. The layers may be put down at 
any time; hut the autumn is best for the purpose. 
Inarched plants take a couple of years to effect a 
perfect union, after which they must be gradually 
separated from the parent plant. The length of 
time required for the propagation of Magnolias at* 
counts lor them always realising a good price. 11 
would be far better were you to purchase a fair- 
sized plant. 

FRUIT. 

Pears falling (B. P .).—We fail to discover any¬ 
thing which would lead us to suppose that the 
blackened appearance of the Pears you submit for 
examination is due to insect agency, and we are. 
therefore, forced to the conclusion that the injury if 
the result of frost and cold winds, which were so 
prevalent during the first three weeks in May. 

Scalding in Grapes (Ethel W. Graham ).—Your 
Grapes are suffering from what is known as scalding, 
which, as a rule, takes place when the berries are 
about half-grown, as those you send are. It is caused 
through late or bad ventilation on a sunny morning 
while the atmosphere inside the house and also the 
berries arc saturated with moisture. You will find 
an article dealing fully with the trouble in our issue 
of May 19th, 1906, p. 153, a copy of which can be 
had of the publisher, post free, for l£d. 

Air-roots on VineB (Ethel W. Graham ).—The 
roots which appear on your Vines are common under 
certain conditions, and are called air or adventitious 
roots. Whilst they remain, they doubtless absorb 
moisture from the air of the house, but in course of 
time they wither up and perish. Really they 
originate in an effort on the part of the Vine to get 
good root-action, and it is quite clear that the proper 
roots are not supplying it. Your best course would 
be to, if possible, lift the Vines next November, 
add some fresh soil, wood-ashes, and bone-dust to the 
border, then replant more shallow. While doing this 
it would also be well to sec to the drainage of the 
border. Yes; if you tie the rod down this will cause 
the buds to break more equally over its whole length. 

Vine failing (•/. S. Aitkin).—You are rather un¬ 
fair in expecting us to tell >ou the reason why the 
bunches on your Vines fail to develop, when you 
omit to supply us with a single scrap of information- 
such, for instance, as the name of the variety, 
whether the house is heated or the contrary, if 
you have lifted the roots recently, whether you de¬ 
vote the house to the growing of other plants in 
addition to Vines, necessitating frequent syringing 
and fumigating occasionally to keep down insect 
pests, and, finally, the temperature you maintained 
when the bunches on the Vines began to lengthen 
out and approach the flowering stage? Without 
being enlightened on one or more of these points we 
are not in a position to state definitely the cause of 
the evil. Fumigating with nicotine compound just as 
the hunches began to flower would cause it, so 
would constant syringing of the Vines and bunches. 
When lifting of the roots has been performed re¬ 
cently, and the same have not become re-established, 
the bunches die off in the same manner that yours 
have done. A cold and dank atmosphere would also 
tend to produce the same effect when the Vines are 
about to come into flower. But all this is mere 
conjecture, and if you will be good enough to afford 
us a few details bearing-uq any of the futove points. 
or any other infnrmafion yoUyCan gi^ltliat would 

d t VZjO 


help in elucidating the matter, we shall be glad to 
help you. 

VEGETABLES. 


Injury to Tomatoes (Inquirer).—IT the Toma¬ 
toes you send us fairly represent the condition of the 
remainder of the crop, then we think you are need¬ 
lessly alarmed, as we are unable to detect any disease 
whatever. One fruit has what appears to be skin 
bruises, the injury being confined to the outside of 
the skin, or, in other words, it is quite superficial, 
the flesh beneath and the pulp also being in a per¬ 
fectly normal condition. The other fruits are also 
sound enough inwardly, but outwardly exhibit signs 
of sun scald. This may have been the result of the 
sun breaking through suddenly and running the 
temperature up to a high point before air could be 
admitted, or it might have been caused by the sun 
shining directly on the fruits after a spell of dull 
weather. The skins in the latter tv.c would, as a 
result of their being soft and tender, he very sus¬ 
ceptible to scalding. The remedy is to well ventilate 
whenever outer climatic conditions will allow, and 
this will have the effect of rendering the fruits less 
liable to injury. If your house is heated you may 
venture to leave the ventilators open at the top an 
inch or so throughout the night. This will prevent 
vapour or moisture condensing when the sun strikes 
the roof in the early morning. That keeps the 
internal atmosphere dry and in motion during the 
night, and is, therefore, of the greatest service in 
acting as a preventive of disease. 


SHORT REPLIES. 


Lily. — Your Lilium candidum has evidently fallen a 
prey to the fungus which has proved so destructive 
to this in recent years. See reply to Miss Shaw, re 
“Orange Lilies failing," in our issue of Juno 15th, 
p. 203.-—B. 8 .—Please send the query to the Editor 

Farm and Home, published at this office.-A/.—The 

paper in which you enclosed the specimen of Corn 
flower was swarming with green-fly, as also was the 

plant, hence the trouble.- J. E. Parker .—From the 

solitary leaf you send, with not a scrap of informa¬ 
tion as to the sort of house the Vines are in. it is 
difficult to assign any reason for the change of colour. 
We should fear, however, judging from the leaf stalk, 

that there is something wrong with the roots.- 

D. T .—Worms are not the cause of the trouble. 
There must be some grubs or other insects in the 

soil.- Winifred Summers .—Your Madonna Lily has 

been attacked by the fungus which has proved so 
destructive of late years. See reply to Miss Shaw, re 
"Orange Lilies failing,” in our issue of June 15th, 

p. 203.- Gee Gee.—If you mow the lawn regularly, 

the liner Grasses will smother the one you refer to. 
It would be advisable to cut the rougher Grass off 
with the scythe just previous to using the mowing- 

machine.- A. W. If.—Kindly send a specimen of 

the insect to which you refer, and then we can help 
you. Please also read our rules as to sending full 

name and address.- T. G. Williams .—Your Pears 

have been attacked by the grubs of the Pear gnat- 
midge. See replies to Dr. F. S. Arnold and " D. B.,” 
in our issue of June 22nd, p. 210.- Catalpa.— Cer¬ 

tainly it would. Why use coal tar when there are 

io many good insecticides now on the market?- 

Caragh .—Will you please send a complete specimen 
of each of the plants you refer to? The piece you 
send seems to be a starved root of Horse-radish, and 

is probably due to cultivation.- W. S .—Get the 

“ Fruit Garden,” price 21s., Country Life, South- 

ampton-street, Strand, London, W.C.- Dove.—We 

•annot find Crambe paniculata mentioned in any 
book of reference w-e have got, and we doubt if there 

is such a variety.- Thos. Ching .—Your Pears, from 

the description you give have been attacked by the 
Pear-midge. See notes on p. 210 in our issue of 
June 22.- The Malmaison .—You will find an inter¬ 

esting article on Malmaison Carnations in our issue 
jf August ISth, 1906, p. 336, a copy of which can be 

had from the publisher, post free, for lid.- Mitt E. 

Belloni .—The cutting will help to thicken the hedge, 
and will not in any way cheek the upward growth. 

-C. fl. />.—Your Melons and Cucumbers have, no 

doubt, been attacked by the eel-worm. See note in 
our issue of June 22nd, p. 208. 


21 AMES OF PLANTS AND FRUITS. 


Names of plants — Jnmes Kelly.— Sempervivum 

Haworthi.- W. Hendon Wood fordc.—The Cockspiir 

Thorn (Cratiegus Crus-galli).- Robert. Greening.— 

Syringa amurensis.- F. IF. J. S. 1, Heucliera mi- 

crantha rosea, or the cross between micrantha and 
sanguinen, known as Rosamunde; must know some¬ 
thing as to height; 2, Smilacina bifolia; 8, Moltkia 

petriea syn. Krodium petraeuin.- Ernest Swanwiek. 

—Judging from the bud you send, the Rose is, we 

think. George Nabonnand.- A. Af. G.— Rehmannia 

angulata. You will find a figure and an account of 

the family in our issue of June 10th, p. 210.- 

F. M. L .—The Bistort (Polygonum Bistorta).- 

/. Af.—1, Rose had fallen to pieces; 2, Limnanthes 

Douglasi.- It. A. liapchild.— Ucilla Peruviana.- 

C. E. B.— Please send a bloom and foliage of the 
Clematis you refer to, and we will then name for 

you.- J. P.—l, Viburnum macrocephalura; 2, The 

Wayfaring-tree (Viburnum Lantana).- Miss Pen- 

ninyton. —Crassula lactca.-Af. P.—Pale form of 

Diervilla (W'eigela) rosea.- K. Daniell.-Cyrtan- 

thus angustifolius. See article dealing with the genus 

in our issue of April 27th, p. 112.- Palmy.— The 

Clustered Bellflower (Campanula glomerata).- L. S. 

—Anomatheca cruenta.-Af. 71.—1, Iris sihiriea var. 

orientalis; 2, Iris sihiriea; 3, Iris graminea.- 

Countess of Southesk.— The Mnsterwort (Astrantia 
major).- Rusticus. —Tainarix gallica. 


Catalogue received. —G. Bunyard and Co., Maid¬ 
stone.-A Descriptive list of Strawberries, etc. 


PRICE 1/- POST PAID, 1/3. 


THE 

GARDEN 

ANNUAL 

ALMANACK and 

ADDRESS BOOK 

For 1907. 


Containing 

An Almanack for the Year 1907. 
Seasonable Work for each month. 
Flowers, Fruits, and Vegetables 
procurable each month. 

New Plants of the past year. 
List of Horticultural and Botanical 
Societies in the United Kingdom. 
Alphabetical List of Nurserymen, 
Seedsmen, and Florists. 

Lists of Gardens, 

Country Seats and Gardeners, 
and 

Principal Parks and Gardens. 


The Book contains about 
10,000 of the best Conn- 
try Seats in the United 
Kingdom, with the name 
of Proprietor and Head 
Gardener. 

Nurserymen, Seedsmen, 
Horticultural Builders, 
and others desirous of 
placing their 

CATALOGUES 

in the best hands should 
not neglect to procure a 
copy. 

THE BEST 
AND MOST 
UP-TO-DATE 
DIRECTORY. 


Ol all BookseUers. Newsagents, and Railway 
Bookstalls, or direct from tbe Publisher 

17, FURINIVAL ST., HOLBORN, 
LONDON, E.O. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


No. 1,478.— Vol. XXIX- 


Founded by W. Robinson, Author of “ The English Flower Garden. 1 


JULY 6, 1907. 


INDEX. 


Abutilon vitifolium .. 
Apple-tree*, the ermine- 
moth on 
Apricot* railing 
Anthuriums, repotting 
Anparagu* bed failing .. 

Bee*. 

Begonias. Tuberous, 

growing. 

BookB . 

Cabbages, bolting 
Carnations, spot in 
Carrot, a good frame .. 
Carrots. July-sown 
Cauliriowerv, early 
Chrysanthemums 
Chrysanthemums, pot¬ 
ting. etc. 

Citron trifoliata.. 
Clematis coccinea 

Coleworta. 

(’•nserratory 
Comua Mas 


241 

245 

238 

234 

244 


244 
•::i4 

245 
234 
233 


238 

235 

238 

233 

243 

336 


Cuckoo-spit 241 

Currant (Rihes sanguin- 
ium), the flowering .. 233 
Cyelanions after bloom¬ 
ing .215 

Dracama leaves in bail 
condition .. 245 

Figs dropping .. .. 242 

Pigs under glass . .. 213 

Fruit from birds, pro¬ 
tecting .242 

Fruit garden .. .. 243 

Fruit-trees, mulching .. 212 
Garden diary, extracts 

from a.243 

Garden in the house, 

the .243 

Garden pests and friends 211 
Garden work .. 243 

Gloxinias and Begonias, 
thrips on .. .. 211 

Grape thinning .. .. 242 

' Grapes, thinning .. 245 


Hcmcrocallis hybrida 
aureole .. .. 241 

Hydrangeas and Yuccas 
at Abbotsbury .. 239 

Hydrangeas, blue .. 238 

Indoor plants .. ..238 

Iris gernianicn, white .. 240 

Iris-leaves, Spanish, 
withering .. 245 

Irises, German, moving 240 

I,&ntanas.211 

1 ,aw and custom.. .. 244 

Lettuce* failing .. ..233 

Melons, two good .. 245 

Michaelmas Daisies, 

staking.240 

Mistletoe, increasing 

the .245 

Moschosma riparium .. 245 
Nil niobiums in North 

Devon.211 

Nigellas (“ Love - in - a - 
Mist '). tho .. .. 241 


i Orohard-houso .. .. 243 

, Outdoor garden .. .. 243 

Outdoor plants .. .. 239 

Pansios, Tufted sea¬ 
sonable work .. .. 239 

; Peach-tree c lying .. 243 
Pelargonium, Zonal,Pmil 
Crumpcl in the green¬ 
house .233 

| Pelargoniums, cuttings 

of.238 

Pelargoniums, Zonal, 
increasing .. 245 

i Pink (Sileno virginica), 

1 tho Fire.210 

Pith - moth (Laverna 
I atra), the .. .. 245 

Plants and flowers .. 236 
Plants for bank .. 245 

I Plants, watering win¬ 
dow .237 

Plum-tree, aphides on.. 242 
Poppies, Iceland .. 237 


Plum. Victoria, not 

fruiting.245 

Potato Midlothian Early 234 
Pyms Hal liana .. 235 
Rhubarb, about-.. .. 234 

Room and window .. 237 
Rose, a golden pillar .. 236 
Rose-buds.. .. 215 

Rose foliage, black 
blotch on .. .. 23 5 

Rose Grace Darling .. 237 
Rose Marechal Niel 
cankered .. ..245 

Rose names .. 236 

RoseNocIlaNabounand 237 

Rose pests.237 

Rose Ruby Queen .. 237 
Rose shoots damaged by 

insect*.215 

Rose Xavier Olibo 

(II.P.).236 

Roses .236 

Roses, Banksian.. .. 23> 


Roses, Tea, for exhibi¬ 
tion 

Saxifraga Aizoon rosea 
Snapdragons 
Sparmannia africana .. 

Store . 

Strawberries, packing 

ripe . 

Sweet Pea soed, saving 
Syringa, fungus on 
Syringa, pruning the .. 
Tomatoes under glass .. 
Trees and shrubs 
Trees, treatment of 
dwarf Japanese 

Turnips. 

Vegetable garden 
Vegetables 
Vinery, early 
Vineries, mildew in 
Week* work, the coming 
Wistaria failing .. 
Wistaria not blooming 


242 

240 

241 


243 

235 


245 

234 

243 

233 

213 

242 

213 

245 

245 


VEGETABLES. 

.JULY SOWN CARROTS. 

For many years past I have eowu a good 
breadth of these, and find them very service¬ 
able for pulling during late autumn, and ex 
tending well into the month of February. 
Moreover, they are very much more tender, 
and less 1 iahle to decay than roots sown in 
April anti stored in the root-shed in Novem¬ 
ber. Here I find no necessity to protect 
these young roots during winter, blit where 
severe frost is experienced it is, no doubt, a 
wise course to adopt, cither drawing the soil 
over the roots—not covering the top growth 
—or placing a mulch of flaky leaf-soil or 
similar light material between the rows, this 
to be done in the month of November, early 
or late, as the colder weather threatens. 
Vacant plots will be forthcoming at this date, 
early Peas, Lettuce, or Strawberry ground 
affording spa*?. Such plots should have a 
moderate, dressing of lime or soot scattered 
over the surface before digging, which should 
be done quite a foot in depth : then fork the 
same back, well pulverising the soil to that 
depth. Next, tread it over evenly, then make 
a fine surface, so that drills 1 inch deep and 
12 inches asunder may lie got out, these to bo 
soaked with water two hours previous to sow¬ 
ing the seed, as quick germination is of para¬ 
mount importance at this time of the year. 
In case the showery weather of early June 
continues, there may be no need to water 
the drills on some soils, but where it is light 
and sandy, consequently drying so quickly, 
it should certainly bo done. The stump- 
rooted type is best suited for these summer 
sowings, and few varieties excel Scarlet 
Model or Early Gem. For experiment, last 
year a few rows of Intermediate, or long 
Carrot, were sown, but the result did not 
warrant another trial. They were tapering, 
hut too small. Keep a keen watch as the 
seedlings come through the soil, dusting with 
soot and lime if the slugs prey upon them, 
and thin moderately in good time, 3 inches 
being sufficient space for this sowing. 

Bit ton. J. MAYNE. 


EARLY CAULIFLOWERS. 

In a season like the present, when Broccolis 
were over so early, Cauliflowers arc more 
valuable. In some years there is an over¬ 
lapping of these two crops, which at once 
limits the value of the Cauliflower. This 
year, however, there was a distinct break 
between them. There are several good types 
of early Cauliflower on the market. Snow¬ 
ball represents a fine type, as also do Veitch’s 
Forcing. Sutton's First Crop, Carter's Fore¬ 
runner, and Fidler’e May Queen. The first- 
named can be sown outdoors in a sheltered 
spot in September, the resulting plants giv¬ 
ing early heads in the epring. The early 
Dwarf Erfurt is another good 6tock, and 
may possibly have been the parent of some 
of these newer tyf 

Digitizer 


er types. ySuTtllv. howevel, de- 

jitizedby VjO QIC 


pen deuce is not placed on the outdoor sow¬ 
ing®, these being treated more as a chance 
crop. Many gardeners sow their first Cauli¬ 
flowers as early as the month of January, 
but February 1 have usually found sufficiently 
early to have Cauliflowers ready to follow 
summer Broccoli. For several years I have 
cut the first Cauliflowers from the 7th to the 
14th of June, and seldom does it happen there 
is no Broccoli available at this period, so 
that there is no gain in providing for an 
earlier supply of Cauliflowers. The latest 
Broccolis arc usually very pure in colour; 
indeed, some of these are quite Cauliflower¬ 
like in flic purity of their “curd.” Dean’s 
Snowball Cauliflower has nn old-estab¬ 
lished reputation, extending back many years, 
most of the others named being of more 
modern introduction. Magnum Bonum and 
Mont Blanc are two good eucccssional kinds, 
which have provided equally satisfactory crops 
as the early kinds already named. 

Wilts. 


LETTUCES FAILING. 

As a constant reader of your valuable paper, 1 shall 
he grateful if you will give me some flints on growing 
Lettuces? Mine are always dark green and tough, 
instead of being pale and crisp. The soil is 
sandy loam. The garden slopes to the south and 
east, and is very sunny and rather dry. When ought 
Lettuces to he planted, and if, like myself, one has 
practically no glass, can one buy plants in the spring, 
so as to have them ready early? When ought they 
to be ready? 1 do not mind whether they are Cos or 
Cabbage, so long as they arc lit to cat. What are 
the best kinds to get? Any hints as to how tu pro¬ 
duce them and the best, way to ensure u regular 
succession will be most welcome.-(M rs.) N. Lucy. 

[We are somewhat at a loss to understand 
why you should fail with Lettuces, seeing 
that your soil, also locality, favour quick 
growth. It is seldom Cabbage Lettuces fail 
to heart well, except in the very hottest 
weather, when*ihey are apt to run to flower; 
but early spring, autumn, and early winter 
plants ought to give good Lettuces, whether 
it be Cos or Cabbage varieties. We will as¬ 
sume that you make a sowing of both kinds 
quite early in July on ground that, is in fairly 
good heart—that is, ground that is not ex¬ 
hausted with carrying a previous crop, such 
as Cabbage, Broccoli—in fact, any of the 
Brassiea family. If so, give the plot nn ordi¬ 
nary dressing of partly decayed manure, dig¬ 
ging this in a good spade deep. A« soon as 
dry enough, tread the ground lightly, and 
take out drills 1 inch deep, 12 inches asunder; 
and if the soil is found to be dry, apply water 
with a small can an hour or so previous to 
sowing the seed, which should lie done thinly, 
as Lettuce plants hardly pay for planting 
during very hot weather. When the seed¬ 
lings appear, dust lightly of an evening to¬ 
wards dusk with slaked" lime, as slugs are 
particularly fond of young Lettuces; also 
ply the flat hoe between the rows, and, when 
large enough to handle, thin out the plants 
9 inches to 12 inches apart; and, should the 
weather still keep dry, water thoroughly twice 
or thrice each week. Under this treatment, 
you should experience no difficulty in having 


nice firm heads of the Cabbage varieties, tho 
Cos requiring to be tied in towards the top 
with a band of raflia or similar material, this 
assisting the centre to blanch or heart. This 
tying should be done in dry weather; at least, 
the plants must be dry. or rotting may ensue. 
Sowings should be made once a fortnight up 
to the end of August., but the Rowings at the 
end of July and first half of August should 
provide plants for autumn use; and as the 
nights usually get. colder towards that date, 
transplanting may be done when they become 
fit., lifting each plant carefully, so that the 
tap-root is not broken, an important item 
not to be lost sight of. Set out the plants a 
like distance as recommended when sowing 
and thinning out the crop. The sowings 
from the end of August or first week in Sep 
tern her will provide material for standing 
through the winter, which should Ik 1 planted 
on warm, sheltered borders about, half the 
distance previously advocated, these to be 
thinned out and transplanted about the 
middle of February, or as soon as the 
weather allows. These should be fit for the 
table towards the middle of April. Fort¬ 
nightly sowings should be made from early 
February, choosing a warm corner or border. 
If you have a few frames not required for 
other purposes, you may well fill them with 
good sized plants towards mid-October, lift¬ 
ing them with good balls of soil and roots, 
and placing just clear of each other, of 
course, covering the roots with fresh soil. 
Give a thorough watering, and do not cover 
with the glass lights until frost threatens or 
during heavy rain-storms during November 
and later. Give plenty of ventilation when¬ 
ever the weather allows. Treated thus, a 
supply can often be had up to Christmas, re¬ 
moving all decaying leaves as soon as seen. 

Good Co« varieties to sow for summer and 
early autumn use are Mammoth White, Paris 
White, and Alexandra White, Hardy White 
Cos being the most, reliable for standing tho 
winter. All the Year Round, Perfect Gem, 
and Royal Albert are all good Cabbage, 
varieties, few surpassing the first two men¬ 
tioned. They can also be sown early and 
late, but the hardiest for standing the win¬ 
ter is Lee's Hardy Green and Hardy Ham¬ 
mersmith. We have gone into this matter 
at great length, in the hope that, other readers 
who may have experienced any difficulty in 
getting good Lettuces may benefit. If you 
have a greenhouse, and could sow a pan or 
box towards the end of January, eventually 
pricking out the plants at the foot of a 
south wall, quite a fortnight would be gained ; 
but at that early date they require much at¬ 
tention in hardening and preventing the slugs 
from eating them.] * 


Coleworts. — Whilst a Cabbage un¬ 
doubtedly, the Cole wort, in both its forms of 
conical hardy green and broad, flat-headed 
rosettes, differs from ordinary Cabbages in 
fitness, for one season only, in texture and 
flavour and in rapidity of hearting in. Large 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


















231 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


July 6 , 1907 


breadths have the demerit of turning in 
pretty much all at once—by no meane a bad 
characteristic for a market grower, who 
pulls the plants and bunches them as be goes, 
but inconvenient for a private gardener or 
cottage gardener, who wants heads to be turn¬ 
ing in in good succession. That desideratum 
is best secured by making two sowings at 
intervals of a couple or three weeks, and a 
couple of plantings from each sowing. Cer¬ 
tainly the first sowing should have already 
been made, but a farther one can be made 
at once. These useful Coleworts may be 
planted but 12 inches apart, and thus 250 
plants can be put out on to a rod of ground, 
it is useless to sow Coleworts in the autumn, 
as the plants will certainly bolt in the spring. 

A. D. 


TURNIPS. 

Up to midsummer the weather could not well 
have been more congenial to the growth of 
this vegetable, frequent showers and cool 
nights being very favourable to this root. It 
is during the next three months that the gar¬ 
dener, as well as the amateur, finds it difficult 
to get good, crisp roots. Although the 
weather be ever so hot and dry, much can 
be done in the preparation of the ground- 
selection of site, method of sowing, thinning, 
and after treatment to ward off the persistent 
attacks of the Turnip-fly. In the first place, 
select a cool spot, such as a northern aspect 
usually provides in the majority of gardens. 
Get this well manured and deeply dug, and, 
if not in any way etiff, it may at once be trod 
over and made quite firm, which Turnips re¬ 
quire. One mistake too often made in small 
gardens is sowing too great a breadth at one 
time. This is all very well towards August 
and early September, when the days are get¬ 
ting shorter and the nights much cooler, but 
it is a waste of seed to do this until the 
month of August is with us. From early 
March up to the date just mentioned only a 
small quantity of seed should be sown, and 
the drills, 1 inch deep and 15 inches asunder, 
should, in dry weather, lie soaked an hour or 
so previous to sowing. In a few days the seed¬ 
lings will be coining through, when birds are 
often a nuisance, to say nothing about the 
flies ; therefore, a dusting of lime and soot can¬ 
not well be too early applied, neither can too 
many root waterings be given during spells of 
drought, when, under this treatment, thinning 
is quickly carried out, with little or no detri¬ 
ment to the crop. Hoeing, too, plays a very 
important part in accelerating growth—a 
necessity if a really good Turnip is to be 
bad. How is it garden Turnips are seldom 
so good ns those grown in a farmer’s field? 
Is it the better manure they get, or the roll¬ 
ing and frequent hoeing the crop gets? Crops 
to withstand the winter naturally do not re¬ 
quire the exceptional treatment recorded 
above, but even with these sowings the ground 
should be got into a fine tilth, and here I am 
inclined to think a mistake is too often made. 
Garden labourers are too fond of the rake ; 
they imagine that if a plot of ground has been 
dug with a spado and the bigger clods 



Turnip Golden Ball. 


chopped here and there, it is unnecessary to 
fork over the ground. The rake only makes 
a fine surface ; it docs not touch the ground 
below an inch deep ; consequently, the roots 
refuse, or, rather, they cannot, penetrate into 
the soil below, as they should do, resulting in 


the growth being slow and 
Ml.r^ulkd. 1 Q 



sh tough 


Assuming early Cauliflower. Potatoes, or 
Peas have occupied the ground intended for 
late Turnips, a moderate dressing of soot and 
wood-ashes should be scattered over the sur¬ 
face previous to digging back with the spade. 
Then the whole plot should be forked over 
and either a light roller run over it or trod 
den down with the feet. Next, rake down 
and draw the drills, sow’ the seed thinly, and 
again rake the surface. The thinning ought 
to be done in showery weather, or a few 
hours after watering has been done, which 
would practically mean next morning. From 
July onwards allow a distance of 6 inches 
between each plant, and. as regards varie¬ 
ties, few can surpass Extra Early Milan. 
Early Snowball, Red Glolio, Golden Ball, and 
Chirk Castle. 

In many parts of the country winter Tur¬ 
nips have to be stored, bub the cooler they 
can be kept the better, and too great a bulk 
ought not to be stored together, or they 
quickly begin to shoot out, when flavour de¬ 
teriorates. Turnips keep best in the ground, 
provided severe frost does not occur, so that 
the wisest step is to take under cover only 
enough for ten days or a fortnight, lifting the 
whole before new growth begins in spring, or 
the roots will be worthless. 

East Devon. 


NOTES AND UEPLIES. 

Asparagus bed failing. - Four years ago 1 made 
a new Asparagus bed with three-year old roots. The 
ground was thoroughly prepared, well trenched, and 
heavily manured; and, the soil here being heavy, a 
good quantity of lighter soil was added. The plants 
were put in in furrows about 4 inches deep, each 
furrow being 2 feet, from the oilier, and about 
18 inches between each plant. Annually since. I have 
given a top-dressing of salt and liquid-manure in the 
summer, and in every way I know of the bed has 
received attention, yet the heads come up very 
sparsely, and thin, and very irregularly. I should be 
much obliged if you would give me your advice what 
is now the best course to adopt?—A SUBSCRIBER. 

[You erred in planting your Asparagus bed 
with three-year-old rooks, and we arc afraid 
that it will never do more than yield moderate 
results. The method pursued regarding the 
preparation of the soil was perfectly correct, 
and the care taken in the planting also, and 
had you made use of one-year-old roots, or 
have sown seed instead, you would, if all 
had gone well, have been in a position to 
cut fine, vigorous heads now instead of the 
thin, weakly growths you complain of. We 
think, under the circumstances, your best 
plan would be to make another bed on the 
lines indicated, as beds formed of old roots 
are seldom, if ever, satisfactory. If you have 
another bed to cut from in the meantime, 
you might, by giving this particular one a 
whole season’s rest, and by dint of liberal 
feeding, improve its condition ; but we fear a 
good many of the crowns or roots are dead, 
and that it is not worth troubling about. VVc 
therefore reiterate the advice given above as 
to the making of a new bed, and do the best 
you can with the present one till such time as 
the former is old enough to supply “grass” 
fit for cutting.] 

Bolting Cabbages. I did # not suggest in 
some recent observations concerning bolting 
Cabbages that in lifting plants from a seed¬ 
bed to put out, all the strongest ones should 
be rejected. When any stock is absolutely 
pure, there is very little difference to be seen 
in the bulk of the plants, as character is well 
preserved. In such case there are none to 
reject, because none arc rogues. It is in the 
case of stocks that may or do contain, per¬ 
haps, but 5 per cent, of rogues to which the 
suggestion applies, as these rogues are in¬ 
variably the strongest. Any good gardener, 
such as “W. S.,” for instance, would detect 
these in a moment, but no head gardener can 
very well note every little thing in his seed¬ 
beds, and when he instructs one of his men 
to lift, plants from a seed-bed and plant them 
out, it is very natural the man should pull 
all the strongest first, not noticing the differ¬ 
ence. which a keener eye would detect. As 
to other causes for premature bolting, I be¬ 
lieve it will be found that from July or early 
August sowings in hot, dry seasons that 
feature is more common than from similar 
sowings in cool, damp seasons.—A. D. 

A good frame Carrot.— The familiar 
Short Horn Carrots have been long asso¬ 


ciated with the garden frame for early spring 
crops, but there is now a longer rooted kiua 
which is much enployed for this purpose. 
This is Carter’s Long Forcing. The value 
of the common stocks of Short Horn Carrots 
is their early maturity, but their size does 
not satisfy everyone. The newer long rooted 



Turnip Chirk Castle Black Stone. 


variety is quite n-s early, and is, therefore, 
more attractive and economical where space 
has to l>e considered. Where so many err 
and hinder the progress of their crop i« by 
sowing too thickly. In so small a space 
as is afforded by a two-light frame, one is apt 
to sow too thickly, but. earliness, jointly with 
that of good roots, is the aim of most gar¬ 
deners, and which is the better secured by 
thin sowing. It is true one may pull small 
roots from the bed for early use, and thus 
provide space for succeeding ones to develop, 
but it is well, perhaps, to remember that 
while this is being done the early outdoor 
sowings are advancing, and even overtaking, 
the privileged frame stock. It is not econo¬ 
mical to be pulling Carrots from a frame 
when they are more easily grown outside. 
Long Forcing has quite superseded all others 
in the forcing ground, for the reasons above 
stated.—W. S. 

Potato Midlothian Early.— I saw an ex¬ 
tensive breadth of this new early Kidney in 
an open field at Chessington, Surrey, the 
other day. The crop was grown from Scotch 
seed. The breadth, considerably over an 
acre in extent, was one of perfect and robust 
growth. The ground, a sandy loam, had 
been ordinarily manured and ploughed, yet 
the growth was equal to what might have 
been seen in good gardens. The market 
grower had then lifted several roots for own 
eating (June 18th). and found good-sized, 
handsome tubers, that gave capital quality 
when cooked. That fact speaks volumes for 
a variety which could not be planted until 
April, and then in an open, exposed field. 
There is no doubt Midlothian Early bears a 
elese resemblance to the Duke of York. In 
an extensive trial of early Potatoes in an 
open field at Mark’s Toy, last year, not only 
did Midlothian Early give the best crop, blit 
was earlier also than Duke of York, both 
stocks being from Scotch seed. The flesh of 
both Potatoes is rather yellow, lienee they 
have much better flavour than is found in 
white-fleshed Potatoes.- K. S. 

About Rhubarb (IF. II .).—Yours are very amus¬ 
ing questions, and the inference is that the gardening 
instructor is not abroad in your district. We had 
thought all the world knew that the portion of 
Rhubarb consumed was the stein on which tlie leaf 
is produced. Still, should anyone like to boil and 
consume the leaves, as Spinach, he can do so, 
although we think one taste would satisfy him. 
Rhubarb does not in any sense represent a fruit. 
The only “fruit” it produces is its seed, and no 
one would care to eat that. Nothing is properly 
termed a fruit that docs not come from flowers, 
hence, whilst Apples, Tears, Gooseberries, Currants, 
Walnuts, and small nuts are fruits, so, too. are all 
seeds, although all these may not be eatable. Be¬ 
cause we choose to have the steins of Rhubarb 
cooked and eaten with, sugar, it is none the less a 
vegetable than i3 Celery eaten raw with salt, or 
9cakale,__or Asparagus. Still, every plant which pro¬ 
duces fruits, seeds, stems, or leaves for eating or 
othVnV jsp, belongs to the veget able kingdom. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



Ji’ly 6, 190? 


GARDENING ILL V SIR AT ED. 


235 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 

PYRUS HALLIANA. 

Though by some authorities kept distinct 
therefrom, this is usually regarded as hut a 
variety of Pyrus floribunda, better known in 
gardens as Pyrus Mains floribunda. This 
last is a low tree well adapted for planting 
either as a single specimen on a lawn or in 
a group of three to five. From its spreading 
habit, ample space must be allowed for its 
development, and then from its distinct, yet 
pleasing, style of growth it forms in the 
spring months a really delightful feature. At 
that time the horizontally-disposed branches 
are laden with small Apple-like blossoms 
hanging on long stalks, and disposed in 
clusters for a considerable distance along the 
6hoots. In the bud state they are coral-red 
in colour, but the interior is so much paler 
that after expansion they become almost 
white. That herein figured as P. Halliana, 
which is also known as P. Parkmannii, is 
sometimes met with as Pvrus floribunda flore- 


| colouring at the approach of winter, when 
; the shrub becomes bare of leaves, have a 
very pretty effect. It often happens, how¬ 
ever, that specimens which flower freely do 
not set fruit. Last week in Sussex,I saw a 
large bush, fully 8 feet in height, which was 
still holding a goodly number of its later 
flowers, and whose shoots were freely studded 
with little fruits about the size of a boot- 
button. With its thickly-branched, sturdy 
habit, and fierce spines it would rival Col- 
letia epinosa and C. cruciata as an impervi¬ 
ous hedge plant, but none of these are suf¬ 
ficiently common to Ik? used for this purpose 
in England.—S. W. Fitzherbert. 

Abutilon vitifolium. — This charming 
shrub or small tree affords a delightful pic¬ 
ture in the south-west in mid-June, and is 
especially beautiful when grown as an isolated 
specimen in a position where its blossoms are 
thrown into high relief by surrounding 
greenery. Large specimens 15 feet or 20 feet 
in height, and almost ns much through, 
! covered with lavender or white flowers, each 
I 3 inches to 4 inches across, are most decora- 


flowdrod form is of a deeper shade of colour 
than the common kind, and is especially 
valuable from being later in blooming than 
the others, added to which the double flowers 
last in beauty for a longer period than the 
single ones. A very distinct Ribes of this 
section is Gordonianum, the flowers of which 
in point of colour arc about midway between 
those of li. sanguineura and R. aurcum, being 
of a peculiar reddish-orange tint, like yolk of 
egg colour. The golden-flowered Currant (R. 
aureura) is also a handsome shrub, and 
flowering, as it does, about the same time as 
R. sanguincum, it, is well suited for associa¬ 
tion therewith. Several varieties of the 
golden-flowered Currant are to he found in 
catalogues, but the points of difference be¬ 
tween them are slight, and a good form of 
the ordinary kind is from an ornamental point 
of view quite equal to any of the others. 
The bright green glossy foliage of R. aureum 
renders it very attractive even when out of 
bloom. In R. speciosum the flowers resemble 
those of a Fuchsia. In growth and foliage it 
resembles the Gooseberry. A well flowered 



pie no. From the ordinal y form of I*, flori- 
bunda it differs in the flowers being semi- 
double, and also in their brighter colour, but 
in this latter respect it is not the equal of 
P. floribunda atrosanguinea. 


NOTES AND EE PLIES. 

Citrus trifoliata. - This hardy Orange is 
often very attractive in the garden in the 
month of May, though, in some cases, it re¬ 
fuses to flower satisfactorily. It should be 
planted in the warmest and sunniest spot 
available, so that its wood may be well 
ripened. The pure white flowers are about 
2 inches apart, and, in the most free-flower¬ 
ing examples, are carried in such profusion 
as to render the hush a sheet, of white. One 
in South Devon is 7 feet iii height, and as 
much through. It was originally planted in 
front of a low wall, which it has long since 
overtopped. It annually flowers with the 
greatest freedom, and invariably perfects 
fruit, thirty or more often being borne on the 
hush. These fruits are about the size of an 
Apricot, and, when th ey a ssume their yellow 

Digitized by GOOgle 


, live in the garden. Unfortunately, this j 
Abutilon often refuses to grow, and in one 
| garden that I know a number of plants 
that have been tried died before they were 
6 feet in height. In most gardens where they 
are at all largely grown a certain proportion 
, of the finer specimens, 15 feet or so in height, 

| dies every season, without any apparent 
cause, and in Devon and Cornwall it is 
I looked upon as a short-lived shrub.-- S. W. 

I Fitzherbert. 

The flowering Currant (Ribes sangui¬ 
ne urn).—Among the earliest flowering shrubs 
the ohl-fashioncd flowering Currants, from 
the brightness of their colouring, are worthy 
of note. The finest of all the dark-coloured 
kinds is R. sanguineum atro-rubens, which is 
of a deeper and more glow'ing tint than the 
I ordinary form, and should he included in any 
' collection of flowering shrubs, however 
choice. A good contrast to the above is albi- 
dum, the flowers of which are of a delicate 
blush hue, and in some individuals almost 
; white. Another variety perfectly distinct, 
but not nearly so showy as either of the 
above, is glutinosum, the flowers of which 
arc of a pale pinkish lilac tint. The double¬ 


bush is extremely pretty, and lasts in good 
condition for a long time. Though quite 
hardy in the open as a bush in the milder 
parts of England, it is usually seen against a 
wall. 

Cornus Mas. —The Cornelian Cherry, as 
this little tree is called, is a valuable winter- 
flowering subject, blossoming in February 
I and March, and being a conspicuous sight 
I when its leafless branches, studded with yel- 
I low flowera, are seen against a background 
of some dark evergreen, such as Yew or 
Holly. The small flowers, fashioned like the 
spokes of a wheel, are not individually 
I showy, being distinctly inferior in this re- 
j spect to the blossoms of the Witch Hazel 
. (Hamaraclis arborea), but the profusion with 
which they are borne on every spray and 
• branch let renders the tree a cloud of pale 
yellow. The name Cornelian Cherry is de¬ 
rived from the oval fruits that follow the 
flowers. These fruits are about, lialf-an-inch 
in length, and in the autumn become bright 
red in colour. There is a variegated form of 
this Cornus that is often grafted and grown 
ns a standard.--SL WdHJ - 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




236 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


July 6, 1907 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

R0SE8. 

TEA ROSES FOR EXHIBITION. 
There are Tea Rcses that yield pretty buds, 
such as Mine. Falcot, which anyone can grow, 
and there are the superb varieties, such as 
White Maman Cochet, which requires good 
soil and much skill on the part of the culti¬ 
vator to bring the blooms to perfection. It 
i« with this latter type that 1 propose to deal 
in this article. The 

Situation of the Rost 1 : garden is an im¬ 
portant detail. Many of our Rose exhibitors 
cannot grow Tea Ruses, and they rarely exhi¬ 
bit a good bloom of this class. This is owing 
to the situation and soil of their Rose gar¬ 
den. I do not say this to discourage anyone 
from making the attempt, hut it must be re¬ 
membered that Tea Roses require a situation 
free from mists, damp, and from injury by 
spring frosts. If it were possible to select a 
site, 1 would suggest that where one can ob¬ 
tain it a gentle sIojk* to the south or south-east 
would he lx*st. Also there should he ample 
protection from the cold winds of the north 
and north-east. Although Roses—es|>ecially 
Tea Roses glory in sunshine, they like to lie 
shielded from it* ill the middle of the day, if 
this can Ik; obtained without stuffiness. A 
• lose, walled-in garden is not at all an ideal 
spot, for Roses, because* it engenders mildew. 
As to the soil, here, again, we cannot always 
give the Roses what they like, which is a sort 
of brick earth, with plenty of grit intermixed ; 
but one thing we can do, and that is, make 
raised beds and see that they are well drained, 
and plenty of grit, added, if the staple is at all 
heavy. It must not be inferred from this that 
a light sandy soil is best. Let the soil be well 
trenched, and add cow and pig manure liber 
ally to the bottom. Bone meal is a capital 
aid to good blossoms, if applied each season 
in spring to the top soil and hoed m. When 
the plants are established, a liberal dressing 
of cow and pig dung should be dug in every 
November, and in the early summer give the 
trees, onoe a week, liquid-manure made from 
the same material, or drainings from a farm¬ 
yard heap, with soot added. With the exeep 
lion of bone-meal, I would advise keeping to 
farmyard manures in liquid or solid form, 
and 1 am persuaded the best results follow- 
judicious applications of liquid-manure, not 
grudgingly given, if we have good healthy 
plants. 

Varieties and stocks. What to plant, 
or on what stocks the Roses should lx* 
budded, is an important detail. For my part, 

1 would not desire anything better than 
short standard Briers, with about 1* feet 
to 2 feet stems. These, if carefully 
selected with good fibrous roots, and 
planted in OcIoIkt and early November, on 
the same day as they arc obtained from the 
hedg rows, will give by far the best results. 
It. is true they are more exposed to severe 
winters, but a liberal wrapping of dry 
Bracken, Fern, or (iorse, will usually bring 
them through. The Brier cutting is the best 
stock for dwarf plants, and next to that the 
seedling Brier. When planting, allow about 
3 feet, between the rows, to enable the manure 
to be applied without hindrance. These 
Briers should Ik; budded early in July, tak¬ 
ing the buds from old plants that yield good, 
strong shoots. The buds should be just on 
the move. For the novice who cannol obtain 
buds easily, it will be best to start by pur¬ 
chasing plants, at same time planting some 
Briers which he could bud the follow ing sum¬ 
mer from buds obtained from his purchased 
plants. If early blooms are desired, and any 
walls are available, by all means plant a few 
of these delightful Roses against such walls. 
One may have such varieties ns Comtesse de 
Nadaillac quite 4 feet to 5 feet in height, upon 
walls, and I have seen Maman Cochet cover 
ing a wall fully 8 feet high. When so planted, 
leave a saucer like cavity around earn plant, 
and see that the plants are liberally fed with 
liquid manure during the growing season. 
This envitv should he filled up with decayed 
manure. When planting standards or half- 
standards do not. forget that the roots must 
Ik* very near the surfa***** and oarefuUy spread 

Digitized by (jQ^ )glC 


out—not bunched up like a Birch broom. 
Put a stake in the ground before planting. 
Tread the soil firmly, and then cover the sur¬ 
face with some well-rotted manure. Do not 
put manure immediately near the roots, and 
on no account use, as a winter mulch, manure 
that is likely to hold a lot of water. In plant¬ 
ing, the roots should be trimmed over and 
the cuts made on the under-side, so that the 
cut part rests on the soil. It is well to leave 
the roots of Rose plants from G inches to 
8 inches long. Briers have their root6 short¬ 
ened back rather more than this. 

Pruning Tea Roses L often clone for us 
by the frost, and not. infrequently one must 
prune down to tin* ground, or, at least, until 
healthy pith i.s found. Keep on l ulling until 
white pith is seen. If brown, the after growth 
will be useless for good blossom. Where the 
season allows of it, a growth or two on each 
tree should be retained a good length, to be 
afterwards removed, ns this aids the roots 
considerably in the more abundant leafage 
provided. These plants that are growing 
upon walls may have their growths retained 
much longer. I refer to what are known ns 
the non climbing sorts, because, of course, 
climbers are left as long as possible. If the 
hard growths, instead of being cut back, lx* 
tied over in half-moon fashion, the lower eyes 
are induced to break, and some fine flowers 
are thus obtained, but for exhibition Teas 
severe pruning must generally be adopted. 

Rosa. 


A GOLDEN PILLAR ROSE. 

For a really good rich golden-yellow Rose 
that can lx; used for pillars or standards there 
is no variety that can compare with Billiard 
et Barre. The Imds are of a delightful colour, 
and, although the open flowers are rather 
paler, yet, some pillars of this Rose provide a 
very rich hit of colouring among dark red 
Roses or other suitable combinations. All 
who have found the need of a good golden 
Rose,'and have hitherto failed to obtain what 
they have desired, would, I think, be satisfied 
with Billiard et Barre. Two-year-old shoots 
will blossom well. It is a good plan, if this 
Rose is required to grow- ns a pillar, to plant 
out yearling plants about a yard apart, and 
the first season cut down To two or three 
eyes. That same summer tie the shoots up 
to 3-feet canes, and the following spring do 
not prune at all, if the growths have wintered 
well. This latter detail can be assisted by 
binding hay-bands around the growths when 
weather is very severe. Some bush plants of 
that lovely Tea Rose Lena. or of Pc Ho des 
Jaimes, would make suitable dwarf sorts to 
mingle among these pillars, and they would 
give some blossom, of course, the first year. 
These could lx* planted 18 inches apart, lx* 
cause when the plants of Billiard et Barre 
rise above them tin; latter would have ample 
room for development, and a really beautiful 
golden bed would be the result after two 
years. Standards of this Rose are very 
effective, and it makes a splendid spreading 
head. It is worth some extra care in pro¬ 
tecting, for golden yellow Rrses are none too 
plentiful. W. X. 


NOTES AND HE ELIES. 

Black blotch on Rose foliage. -■ Enclosed are 
some blighted leaves from Grass un Teplitz Hoses. 
Last year many of my bushes were attacked by this 
blight, and nearly all the leaves fell off. Can you 
tell me the cause and what to do to stop it? My 
bushes are protected from north and east winds. 
The garden is half a mile from the sea, and *230 feet 
above it.—D orset. 

-I live on the border of n big pond or small 

lake, and grow beautiful Roses witli great success, 
using ordinary stable-manure for them; but I am 
terribly troubled by the black-spot disease. This has 
particularly affected the Gloire de Dijon, and quite 
ruined some trees on u pergola that slopes down to 
the water. The Roses are rather crowded with Lilies 
and Delphiniums, but in many places the disease has 
come on some China Roses where there is plenty of 
room. Please tell me how I can get rid of this 
trouble?—M. H. 11. 

[This parasite. known as Actinonema rosa*. 
i.s very life this season, probably owing to 
the wet and cold weather we are having. 
Some Rose growers pay little heed to this 
pest, but it. so disfigures the plants that, one 
would wish to grow one’s R<xx*fl free from it. 
if possible. Bordeaux mixture will check the 
ravages of the parasite, but. this should have 


been applied earlier. You might spray the 
plants at once, and at least you could do no 
harm, and you would prevent it spreading to 
the young foliage. Where this black blotch 
occurs annually, it is, we believe, an indica¬ 
tion that the Roses need transplanting. We 
rarely find this disease upon Roses growing 
in a good, well-tilled soil. We should ad¬ 
vise you to transplant next autumn, and. if 
possible, have the soil trenched, working in 
at same time some lime, if you have reason 
to believe your soil is deficient of this. Free 
drainage should also be afforded—artificially, 
if necessary.J 

Rose names Will you kindly name (lie accom¬ 
panying Hoses, and gi\«- advice us to treatment and 
pruning, of which they have as yd had hardly any? 
No. 1 lias been planted about eighteen month**, and 
has little blossom. Nos. 2 and 3 have been planted 
about three years, and are blooming freely this year 
on a rather primitive arrangement of poles and trellis, 
but 1 am anxious to know how to keep them good 
bloomers?—Sonus. 

[No. 1 is Aglaia, This is a very shy 
bloomer until the plants are about three 
years old, then they will flower freely, if not 
pruned. Allow them to grow as they like, 
and open out the growths as much as possible. 
On no account allow the shoots to become 
crowded, or you will obtain no blossom, but 
just let them lx*ud and sway aboitt like the 
Roses in the hedges and you will have abun¬ 
dance of blossom. No. 2 is Thalia, and No. 3 
Rove d’Or. Practically they require the same 
treatment ns No. 1. In the early autumn 
take away one or two of the oldest growths, 
and tie the rest, up to their support, blit do 
not bunch them up. Allow* plenty of space 
for circulation of air, which tends to mature 
the wood and aid the blossoming. Reve d’Or 
will require a lot of space, as it is a prodigious 
grower. Spread it nut to the right and to 
the left in the spring, but do not shorten 
many of the shoots produced this season un¬ 
less they be short lateral growths, in which 
case these may be cut back to two or three 
eyes.] 

Banksian Roses.— It is not often one finds 
healthy trees of the once popular Banksian 
varieties of Roses, they having a more .or less 
yellow or sickly hue. One of the finest speci¬ 
mens I have seen for a long time furnished 
an elevated boundary wall at Bicton. where 
the soil seems to suit Roses of nil kinds so 
well, ns it does so many other subjects. The 
plant under notice was very healthy, and 
there was also a luxuriant crop of blossom of 
the creamy-yellow tone which distinguishes 
this Rose from all others. There is now such 
a number of climbing Rrses that no one 
particular kind can claim a monopoly in 
these days; still, where walls have to lx* 
cove red with Roses there is certainly some 
claim presented by the Banks inns. The fact 
of their being evergreen, too, adds additional 
interest. They are not so hardy as many of 
the present-day Ramblers, and for this reason 
they have wall spaces allotted them, usually 
sunny and sheltered from cold winds. There 
are two forms of Rosa Banksiie- a white, as 
well as the yellow referred to as thriving so 
well in the famous Bicton Gardens, the latter 
being much the more effective of the two. 
When healthy, their foliage is dark green 
and glossy, and, unlike Roses in common, 
there are no spines, or. at any rate, so few 
that they may lx* claimed to lx* almost spine¬ 
less. One other pleasing feature is their 
early season of blossom. The Bicton speci¬ 
men was in full flower in early May, when no 
other Rose was seen.—W. Strugnell. 

Rose Xavier Olibo (H.P.).—If this grand 
old dark Rose would but grow well, what a 
valuable, one it would be ! Its one weak point 
is want of vigour. As a ‘‘maiden” fir one- 
year plant, it is robust enough, when budded 
on the seedling or cutting Brier or de la 
Grifferaie stock ; but, perhaps, one obtains 
the finest blossoms from half-standards. I 
have seen really grand plants upon the de la 
Grifferaie stock, especially when budded and 
allowed to remain without transplanting. The 
second year the plants were hut moderately 
pruned, and they developed into really hand¬ 
some plants, ami produced numbers of blos¬ 
soms. although not of exhibition quality. 
This Rose is worth a little extra care, for it 
is of that intense blackish-maroon so dear to 
the hearts of jnost Rose growers. The build 
of the flower is more conical than in Abel 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


Jolt 6, 1907 


GARDENING ILL VST RATED. 


237 


Carrifere, one* of our most reliable dark Roses. 
It is a pity these Roses burn in bright sun¬ 
shine, which we sometimes get. One must 
always have a number of shades at hand, if 
Roses are to be had perfect. What a frag¬ 
rance Xavier Olibo lias! It is rich in that 
odour 60 well represented in La France and 
in many of the old fashioned Roses. Our 
raisers of modern varieties have neglected this 
charming attribute to a Rose. They have 
striven for size and remarkable colouring, 
and. to a large extent, have been successful, 
but at what a price ! Let us get back to the 
old style, or, in any case, Jet fragrance 
be one of the qualities that shall determine 
the value of a novelty. W. X. 

Rose Crace Darling. Those desirous of ob¬ 
taining some early blooms of this charming 
Rose may do so by planting and training it 
against a wall having a south aspect. It can 
then be had in bloom early in May in a normal 


ferent from all others of that group, inas¬ 
much as its growth resembles more nearly 
that of the Hybrid Chinese. The fine pillars 
it will form, very dense and clothed to the 
ground with foliage, the beautiful glow of its 
rich ruby-pink flowers, with splashes of white 
on outer petals, all tend to make this Rose 
one of no ordinary interest, and I am 6ure it 
only needs to be known to make it popular. 
Already the Rose lias made many friends, and 
it is called for now' rather extensively. The 
flowers are large, some 3 inches across, and 
there are five or six row's of petals. Being an 
early bloomer (June 18th it was out), this 
variety makes an excellent one to mingle with 
such sorts as Trier, Gardenia, Blairii No. 2, 
.Jersey Beauty, Electra, Aglaia, and others, 
ltuby Queen is of American origin.— Rosa. 

Rose NoellaNabonnand.— When “caught” 
| right, as a Rose grower would term the per- 
I feet state of a bloom, this beautiful climber 


June, and also again after the first, flowering 
for two or three weeks. This variety is apt 
to become rather straggling, and, in order to 
keep it in a presentable condition, it is need¬ 
ful to cut down a growth or two each season. 
This would be best done in early autumn, re¬ 
moving the oldest growths each year.—E. 

Rose pests, both fungoid and insect, require 
constant watching. A system of spraying the growths 
should be adopted before the green-fly uud maggot 
appear. Paraflln-soap is an excellent preventive 
against green-fly if applied before they become too 
numerous, and carbolic soap, made into a fairly 
strong solution, will check if not entirely cure mil¬ 
dew. For maggots, nothing can surpass hand-pick¬ 
ing, and this should be done every morning, and as 
the growths advance two or three times a day. Ants 
and earwigs will often destroy a beautiful bud in a 
night. The nests of the ants should be found, and 
hoiling water poured in, or jars sunk into the ground 
and half tilled with thin syrup will destroy numbers. 
Earwigs may be caught by laying or hanging Bean¬ 
stalks about and then cow and then shaking them 
over a bucket of boiling water. 



ROOM AND WINDOW. 


ICELAND POPPIES. 

When gracefully and lightly arranged with 
Gypsophila or some light Grasses, few things 
can surpass these on the dinner table or in 
vases. The white and yellow or orange forms 
blend well, or they have a fine effect when 
arranged separately, lasting fairly well when 
cut and placed in water at once. They are 
not among the beet things for sending to a 
distance, not travelling well, unless special 
care is taken in packing. A little care is 
needed in raising them, a shaded position and 
specially prepared bed l>eing best, sowing in 
May or June, and transplanting in the 
autumn for next season's flowering. If sown 
early in March, and attention paid to the 
seedlings, they will flower the same season. 


Iceland Poppies, 


season, and that at a period when Rose's are 
exceedingly valuable. Grown under such j 
conditions, it is equally as free-flowering as 
when grown in the open, while the colour of 
the flowers is, if anything, of a slightly deeper j 
shade. Another Rose worthy of the protec¬ 
tion of a wall is Gloire Lyonnaise, and if 
pruned but sparingly, it will then yield far 
greater quantities of flowers than can be 
had from bush plants later on in the season, i 
When fully ojien, the large, almost while, | 
blossoms, make a glorious show. It is also a 
good Rose to cut for house decoration, as each 
bloom can be had with an extra long stem. 
It is a more vigorous grower than Grace 
Uarling, and will cover a wall lip to 10 feet 
in height, and it also has the merit, of retain¬ 
ing its foliage in a green*condition throughout 
the winter. —A. W. 


Rose Ruby Queen. 

pleasing coloured Rose 
now than Ruby Queen, 
of the Wichuraiaua 


There is no more 
in the garden just 
It is a fast, grower, 


Digitize 


trtfflT^ but totally clif 

Go gle 


is very attractive. Its petals are prettily 
pointed at least, the* outer row is so formed 
—and this gives the bloom a very distinct ap¬ 
pearance. The colour is a beautiful plum- 
crimson, something like the tint of J. B. 
Clark, and the base of the bloom on the out¬ 
side is nearly white, and even there are, here 
and there, streaks of white in the inner 
petals. As the flowers expand the petals de¬ 
velop to a huge size ; then we have a loose, 
gorgeous blossom. This is, I believe, a seed¬ 
ling from Heine Marie Henrietta, crossed with 
Bardon Job, and the latter has, apparently, 
l>estowed its beautiful velvety shading. 
Noella Nabonnand is sweet scented, resem¬ 
bling Monsieur Desir in this, and, although 
the two Roses are very distinct in form, there 
is much in common between the two. The 
growth of Noella Nahonnaud is extra vigor¬ 
ous, and it would be a worthy sort to plant 
where a vigorous grower is required. The 
growth should bo encouraged with liberal 
waterings of liquid-manure during May and 


NOTES AND EE PLIES. 

Watering window plants. —Most people 
are fond of growing a few plants in their win¬ 
dows ; but almost every one is puzzled as to 
the number of times they should be watered 
in a day. Suppose one purchases a few plants 
—say, scarlet Tom Thumb Geraniums, Petu¬ 
nias, Heliotropes, Fuchsias, etc.—one natur¬ 
ally inquires how often they should be 
watered. The answer to this question will 
bo, “Do not water them till they are dry,” 
or “till they require it.” The plants are sent 
home, placed in a window, or wherever they 
are intended to stand; and, although the 
drooping points of their branches soon indi¬ 
cate aridity at the roots, the balls of earth 
are not considered quite dry; therefore, 
amidst considerable alarm, there is some 
hope entertained that the safety of the plants 
will be best ensured by a scrupulous adher¬ 
ence to the directions. Another day is 
allowed to pass, and the soil at last is as drv 
as a crust. “Now,” soliloquises the anxious 
cultivator, “I surely may water them.” The 
pots are accordingly chargt?d with water, 
which the dryness of the soil docs not permit 
to percolate till after some considerable time. 
The shoots do not regain their firmness, the 
leaves turn no fresher, and everything testi¬ 
fies, in the most unmistakable manner, that 
the remedial measure has been withheld till 
it is “too late.” Undoubtedly, it i.s wrong to 
keep such plants as those mentioned continu¬ 
ally soaking in water by means of saucers, 
but the soil in which plants grow should never 
he allowed to get quite dry. The safest con¬ 
dition for suen plants is that of moisture, 
though in winter they require less water than 
in summer. Ferns, even the deciduous 
species, I keep moist. Such treatment 1 have 
found to ensure success, and if we look at the 
kinds we have growing in our own country, 
we find they are moister at the root in winter 
than in summer. Though the soil in which 
Ferns are grown, however, should always be 
kept damp, great attention should l>e paid to 
the state of the drainage.—F. 


Index to Volume XXVIII. -The binding covers 
(price Is. 6d. each, post free. Is. Pd.) ami Index (8d., 
post free, 3Jd.) for Volume -XXVI11. are now ready, 
and may be bad of"nil- newsagents, or of the L’ub- 

"^UNWERSlTr'bnLLINOIS A 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 








238 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Jui.t 6, 1907 


INDOOR PLANTS. 

CUTTINGS OF PELARGONIUMS. 
Now that the various show, decorative, fancy, 
and Regal Pelargoniums are, in most cases, 
past their best, a good opportunity presents 
itself to increase tlie stock for another sea¬ 
son. As soon as the flowers are over, or the 
plants are too far gone to l>e of further use 
for decoration, they should be cut down. 
This operation is often carried out by the 
uninitiated in a half-hearted manner—that is 
to say, the plants are not cut down low 
enough, the result being that before the next 
flowering season conies round the plants are 
bare at the base. Unless in especial easts, 
the current season’s growth should lw cut 
away, with the exception of about an inch at 
the base. From this portion the new shoots 
will be pushed out. After the plants are cut 
down they may be laid on their sides out-of- 
doors, as in this way they are safe from 
heavy rains, for the soil should be kept dry, 
or nearly so. Many cultivators, however, 
prefer to keep them under glass, allowing 
them plenty of air. This method has the ad¬ 
vantage of allowing them to Ik* stood upright, 
so that they can grow in a natural manner, 
while they can also be lightly sprinkled occa¬ 
sionally through a fine rose, as this assists 
the production of new shoots. When these 
new shoots are about $ inch long is a good 
time to repot the plants. They must be 
shaken quite clear of the old soil, and have 
any straggling roots shortened back, the ob¬ 
ject being to put them into comparatively 
small pots—certainly much smaller than 
those in which they have flowered. For 
plants that have bloomed in 5-inch or 6-inch 
pots, 3£ inches to 4 inches will ba quite large 
enough. This will afford room for a good 
shift when they are put into their flowering 
pots. A compost made up principally of good 
turfy loam, lightened, if necessary, by an 
admixture of leaf-mould and sand, is very 
suitable for Pelargoniums in general. The 
fancy varieties, being less vigorous rooting, 
require rather lighter soil than the other 
kinds. After potting, the plants must be stood 
in a frame or in the greenhouse, but in either 
case, plenty of light and air is necessary. 
Water should be given somewhat sparingly 
till the roots begin to take possession of the 
now soil. 

The short jointed, sturdy shoots that have 
been cut off make the best cuttings, and some 
varieties produce these in plenty, while in the 
case of others good cuttings arc difficult to 
obtain. On a pinch, the older and leafless 
parts of the stems may be put in as cuttings. 
Many of them will root, but they can scarcely 
1)0 expected to form so shapely plants as 
those from the better portions of the shoots. 
A length of about 4 inches is a very suitable 
one for the cuttings, which should have a 
joint left at the base, and the leaves, if any, 
on the bottom 2 inches removed for the pur¬ 
pose of insertion. Many of the best cuttings 
exceed the length named, but with the ter¬ 
minal portion in a soft and succulent state. 
When this is the case, the soft tip may, with¬ 
out injury, be cut away, thus leaving the cut¬ 
ting of the required length. Pots from 
4 inches to 5 inches in diameter are the most 
suitable size for the cuttings. They must be 
quite clean, and effectually drained to about 
one-third of their depth. A suitable compost 
for the cuttings is two parts loam to one part 
each of leaf-mould and sand, the whole being 
well mixed together. It may be passed 
through a sieve with $ inch mesh, or the sift¬ 
ing can be dispensed with, the rough portions 
being simply broken up and separated by 
hand. The soil must l>e pressed down 
moderately firm and level, leaving sufficient 
space for watering 

In dibbling in the cut tings care should he 
taken that they are not overcrowded, and it 
is also very necessary that the soil be closed 
firmly around the buried portion. Six to 
eight cuttings in a 5 inch pot are a very suit¬ 
able number. After the pots are filled with 
cuttings a good watering through a fine rose 
should be given, in order to settle everything 
in its place. When nil this is done the pots 
of cuttings should be stood on a light, sunny 
shelf in the greenhouse, and watered when 
necessary. By some the cutting pots are sur- 

Digitizedby (jQv 


faced with clean silver sand, but this has the 
drawback of making it difficult to find out 
the actual state of moisture underneath, 
hence it is by many discontinued. When the 
cuttings are rooted they must be potted 
singly into small pots, giving them through¬ 
out the rest of the summer, autumn, and win¬ 
ter all the light and air possible. According 
to the conveniences that exist, some of the 
forwardest may be put into their flowering 
pots in thg autumn, or all may be left till 
February. In every stage aphides or green¬ 
fly must Ik? especially guarded against. 

X. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Repotting Anthuriums—I should be extremely 
obliged it you would inform me as to the best way 
of repotting an Anthurium? it has bloomed very 
well this past spring; but wants attention now. I 
am very glad to notice a probability of there being 
a series of papers on Orchids in your most interesting 
and instructive journal, which I have taken in for 
many ycarrf, and from which I have learnt much.— 
E. M. 

[Either pots or moderately deep pans may 
be used, the latter being preferable, and they 
must be well drained by placing some large 
crocks over the bottom, covering these with 
other crocks broken much smaller. Over the 
drainage place a layer of rough Sphagnum 
Moss. Fibrous peat, turfy loam, and chopped 
Sphagnum Moss, in about equal parks, with 
the addition of some broken crocks and coarse 
silver sand, will form a suitable compost, the 
whole of which should be thoroughly well 
mixed together. The peat and loam should 
be broken up into small lumps, and then 
have most of the finer particles of soil knocked 
out of it by shaking it roughly about in a 
small mesh sieve. Turn the plant out of the 
pot, and carefully remove all the loose and 
decayed soil ; at the same time, cut away all 
dead roots, etc. In placing the plant in the 
new receptacle, carefully spread out the roots, 
and work the mixture among them, keeping 
the plant well up, so that when finished it 
stands clear above the rim of the pot at least. 
2 incites or 3 inches, and forms a kind of 
mound. After repotting, give sufficient tepid 
rain-water to wet the compost through ; after 
which only sufficient moisture will be neces¬ 
sary to keep the pieces of Moss on the surface 
in a flourishing condition. The leaves of the 
plant must l>e kept well syringed, so as to 
encourage new growth ; also to ward off thrips, 
which frequently attacks them.] 

Zonal Pelargonium Paul Crampel in the 
greenhouse. —This brilliantly-coloured Zonal 
Pelargonium is a great favourite for the 
flower garden, and that it is equally well 
suited for the summer embellishment of the 
greenhouse is well shown in No. 4 green¬ 
house at Kew, where a group of well-flowered 
examples forms a very showy feature. The 
practice which prevails at Kew of arranging 
each subject in a small group is very much 
better than dotting the plants indiscrimi¬ 
nately here and there, as in this way their 
individual points are fully seen, and some 
happy combinations are often formed. There 
is also in the same structure another group 
of a fine Pelargonium belonging to this sec¬ 
tion, The Mikado, the flowers of which are 
very large, regularly formed, and of a pleas¬ 
ing shade of soft cerise. Paul Crampel is of 
rather upright growth, with huge trusses of 
very bright, yet deep, scarlet-coloured blos¬ 
soms. During the very wet summer of three 
years ago it proved to be the least affected 
of its class by heavy rains, and the brilliant 
weather of l%st year suited it equally well. 
Though it lias only come to the front within 
the last half-a-dozen years, this variety was 
first distributed in 1892, but, in common with 
many other established favourites, some time 
elapsed before it became popular. X. 

Blue Hydrangeas. These useful early 
summer greenhouse shrubs are always in¬ 
teresting when in a conservatory, a green 
house, or even a window which will accommo¬ 
date and satisfy their few requirements. 
Usually one is familiar with tin* pink-coloured ! 
flower trusses, but occasionally blue tints, 
more or less deep, are found. In the west 
and south of England I have recollections of 
quite large bushes growing in the garden, 
and I can remember, too, that blue as well 
as pink flowers are to be had from these open- 
air bushes. The colour is, of course, deter¬ 


mined by the chemical nature of the soil. In 
pots the same colour can be produced, if soil 
is obtainable having iron in it, as also by using 
sulphate of iron. Last season 1 divided a 
batch of plants into two lots—the one had 
natural water, with an occasional stimulant 
only ; the other was given weak solutions of 
iron sulphate each alternate day. No result 
was apparent last season, though the chemi¬ 
cal treatment was commenced some time be¬ 
fore the flowering season was due, but this 
year these same plants give blue-toned, in¬ 
stead of the normal pink, heads, which makes 
the display much more interesting, varied, 
and pleasing, due to the change of colour. 
Further treatment with sulphate of iron will, 
presumably, increase and make still deeper 
the blue tints of next year’s flowers, or the 
same ends may be gained by mixing the 
powdered sulphate with the potting soil. 
Those of your readers who grow these hand¬ 
some greenhouse shrubs may do well to 
secure a small quantity of sulphate of iron 
and apply occasional small doses as the sea¬ 
son advances, and the result will be apparent 
in the spring of 1908. The same may be ex¬ 
pected of outdoor-grown plants.—W. STRUG- 
NELL. 

CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

POTTING CHRYSANTHEMUMS, ETC. 
Considerable difference of opinion exists 
regarding this in relation to small versus 
large shifts. In many private gardens fre¬ 
quent potting finds much favour, whereas in 
market places it is just the opposite. With¬ 
out committing myself to any one system, I 
must say I am greatly in favour of large 
shifts for most soft and fast-growing things. 
It has many advantages, not the least being 
the reduction of labour. Another advantage 
is that the young, tender roots do not receive 
injury by ln’ing bruised by the rammer. 

At this time of year much labour has to lx? 
found to pot Chrysantlieimiins, and where 
many are grown the potting occupies a deal 
of time. At one time I potted most of the 
plants three times, but during the last five 
years I have potted them from 4 inch pots 
into their blooming pots, and with the best 
results. The size in which I flower them 
varies from 8 inches to 12 inches, this applv- 
ing to those grown for large blooms and in 
bush form. Some may think the plants would 
make strong, rank growth, but this is not so, 
seeing room is left to give them one or two 
top* dressings. Of course, there arises the 
question of the soil getting sour, if allowed to 
get too wet. If attention is given for the 
first two or three weeks, this will not occur. 
I put the newly-potted plants under cover for 
a time, placing them in frames, pits, etc., 
standing them close together. Before potting 
is commenced the soil, if dry, is moistened, 
as also the plants. When the ball goes into 
this nicely moistened soil the only water 
needed for a w r eek or ten daxs is that from 
syringing the plants. Later in the season, if 
rainy weather sets in and the plants are in 
the open they are laid on their sides. Some 
thirty-five years ago I remember one of tin* 
finest batches of herbaceous Calceolarias T 
ever saw. These were put into 8-inoli pots 
from 4 inch pots ; and the best Balsams I 
ever have seen were grown at Rond Ashton 
in the seventies. Those were potted from 
3-inch into 12-inch pots. The same holds good 
with Fuchsias, etc. At the close of March I 
saw a grand lot of Calceolarias wdiich had re¬ 
ceived only one shift, and 1 am convinced 
more soft-wooded plants are injured by fre¬ 
quent. potting than by the one large shift. 
Caladiurns and things of kindred nature pro¬ 
duce much the finest growth treated in this 
way. Nor could I ever see any advantage in 
repotting Strawberries. I had, early in May, 
as fine a crop as could Imj wished in 6 inch 
and 7-inch pots, three plants in a pot, these 
having been layered into these at the close of 
last July. J. C. F. 

Clematis coccinea ( r . C. II .).—We are supposing 
this in the Clematis you refer to as C. kermesina. 
0. coccinea is a distinct and beautiful species, some 
f> feet to 10 feet, high, the flowers varying in colour 
from rosy-carmine to scarlet. They are swollen at 
the base, but narrow towards the top, where, how¬ 
ever. the tips of the four sepals are recurved. These 
sepals are very thick and leathery. It comes from 
North America. 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



July 6, 1907 


GARDENING ILL USTRATED. 


239 


OUTDOOR PLANT3. 

HYDRANGEAS AND YUCCAS AT 
ABBOTSBURY. 

The accompanying illustration of Yuccas and 
Hydrangeas, boldly grouped, gives an object- 
lesson of the value of massing for efFect in 
the garden. How much more beautiful is the 
informal picture here presented, with its 
noble breadth of flower surrounded by the 
upstanding, sword-like leaves of the Yuccas, 
than a composition where the plants are 
arranged in straight lines, circles, or tri¬ 
angles, or than the flat brilliancy of bedding 
out. The gardens of Abbotsbury Castle, 
Dorsetshire, which are situated in a deep 
valley formed by the sudden declivity of the 
Dorset downs on the landward side, and by 
the steep hill that provides a rampart against 
the sea-winds on the south-west, are girt on 
all sides by groves of Ilex, which are most 
effectual as a wind-break. They contain a 
unique collection of exotic and sub-tropical 
trees and plants, such as few gardens in 
Devon or Cornwall can excel. Ten years ago 


lias, many of them 10 feet in height, and as 
much in diameter. Magnolias were present 
in many species, M. glauca and M. Carnp- 
belli being particularly fine. At the time of 
which I write there was an enormous speci¬ 
men of Berberis nepnlensis in the gardens, 
which was 14 feet in height, and as much in 
diameter, with a trunk 3 feet 6 inches in cir¬ 
cumference, but this, I believe, is since dead. 
A Tarely seen, but striking, shrub was 
Euonymus fimbriatus, the crimson of the 
young terminal leaves of the shoots giving it, 
at a distance, the appearance of being in 
flower. 

Many rare and tender climbers flourished 
upon the walls, amongst them being Plum¬ 
bago eapensis, Cissus orientalis, Clianthus 
puniceue, Lapageria, Lasiandra (Pleroma) 
mocrantha, Trachelospermum jasminoidee, 
Stauntonia latifolia, Swainsonia albiflora, 
Bignonia capreolata, Hydrangea scandens, 
and two varieties of Kennedya, while Clematis 
balearica clambered over the branches above. 
A small stream that ran through the lowest 
part of the valley fed a lakelet in which the 
best of Marline’s Water Lilies were grown, 


bry ail the mu ms are evidently at home, and no 
collection, except Mr. Dorrien-Smith’s, at 
Treseo Abbey, Isles of Seilly, can rival that 
at Abbotsbury. A rare plant was Primula 
Palinuri, of which there was a large patch in 
full flower, its tall, Cowslip-like scapes sway¬ 
ing above the thick, bright green leafage, 
being very effective. On either side of the 
castle, in front of a wall, about thirty species 
of Aloes and Agaves were growing, these 
being temporarily covered with glass during 
the winter. ' S. W. F. 


TUFTED PANSIES. 
Seasonable Work. 

The old plants that came through the winter 
so well have flowered freely during the last 
two months, and are already giving evidence 
of slight deterioration by the size of the 
blooms and the somewhat impoverished ap¬ 
pearance of the plants. These old plants 
have flowered since March last, and some 
what drastic treatment is now necessary if 
they are to continue to bloom. The older 
growths should be cut out, as these, in many 



Group of Yuccas and Hydrangeas in the gardens at Abbotsbury. 


Eucalypti were represented by between thirty 
and forty species, many of which were propa¬ 
gated by seed raised on the place. Acacias 
of many species were in the best of health. 
The beautiful Paulownia imperials was re¬ 
presented by a specimon fully 30 feet in 
height, and the rare New Zealand Ribbon- 
tree (Plagianthus betulinus) was 50 feet in 
height, with a trunk girth of 6 feet. This is 
believed to be the finest specimen in the 
British Isles. The West Indian Fiddle-wood 
(Citharexylon quadrangulare) was also not¬ 
able, as was a fine specimen of the Maiden¬ 
hair-tree (Ginkgo biloba). The brilliantly 
flowered Fire Bush (Embothrium coccineum) 
was as healthy ns in Cornwall, a*s were 
Azara integrifolia and Cornus capitata, for¬ 
merly known as B?nthamia frngifera, en¬ 
titled the Strawberry tree, from the crimson 
fruits that follow the large sulphur-white 
flowers. Carponteria californiea was doing 
well, and the Australian Banksia quercifolia 
appeared perfectly happy. Bamboos were 
largely in evidence, the various species hav¬ 
ing been imported direct from Yokohama. 
Himalayan Rhododendrons were in fine 
flower in the spring, as were the giant Camel- 

Digitized by GOOgk 


this little sheet of water adding much to the 
beauty of the grounds. In the late spring the 
Libertias growing in damp soil near the 
water made a delightful picture, their count¬ 
less flower-spikes forming a cloud of white. 
These plants grew very strongly, being fully 
4 feet in height. An interesting sight was 
afforded by Bescborneria yuccoides, from 
Mexico, whose Aloe like flower-spikes rose to 
a height of 10 feet. 

The rock garden, almost as interesting as the 
sub tropical one, occupies a site on the steep 
slope between Abbotsbury Castle and the 
Chesil Beach, and is exposed to the full force 
of the gales that drive in to the West Bay 
and fill the air with flying spindrift. In spite 
of this apparent drawback, every plant exhi¬ 
bited robust health. The collection of 
Mesembryanthemunis is a very fine one, al 
most a hundred s]>eoies being grown. The 
sight of these in full bloom on a sunny, spring 
day baffles description, so dazzling are the 
tints. A large sheet of the vivid scarlet M. 
tenuifolium simply blazes with intense colour, 
and the crimsons, oranges, and yellows are 
almost as bright. On the light soil of the 
rock garden, and close to the sea, the Mosom- 


instances, have become some what coarse, and 
may well l>e dispensed with. Cut such old 
growths down to the ground, so as to give 
the numerous young shoots an opportunity 
to develop and continue the display for some 
months to come. Some readers may not care 
to treat their plants in such a fashion, but 
there need ho no hesitation as to cutting them 
down in this way. At the same time, it is a 
good plan to loosen the soil round the crown 
uf these old plants. It is also a good plan 
to give them a mulching of some sort or 
another, and for this purpose it would 1 h» 

I well to work in around the crown any well 
decayed manure that has been first passed 
through a very coarse sieve. It is better 
! also to mix with this old manure any light 
i and gritty soil which will help to break up 
1 the other particles of the mulch. There is a 
tendency in many gardens to allow the plants 
to flower continuously for some time without 
removing the spent blossoms or seed-pods. 
Such want of attention must lead to serious 
deterioration of the plants, and no time 
should lie lost in removing the spent blos¬ 
soms and seed pods, thus concentrating all 
the energies of the pmdt dn the proper de- 











240 


GARblZMMG ILL VSTRATED. 


Jui.t 6, 190? 


velopment of the shoots that are retained. 
After mulching it is u good plan to give the 
plants a thorough soaking of water, using a 
fine rosed can for this purpose. 1 find it a 
very good plan to go over the whole collection 
of plants at least twice in this fashion, and 
then there is little doubt that the roots be¬ 
come thoroughly moistened. Within a week 
or ten days of this treatment the old plants 
should bs bristling with numerous buds. 

The plants that were placed in their flower¬ 
ing quarters in March and April last, and 
even at a later period, are now growing and 
flowering freely. This cannot continue for 
any long period, as the development of uew 
and Fresh shoots liegins t<» detract from the 
value of the flowers that, are evolved on the 
original main ntein. We have to consider, 
therefore, at this time what shall be done 
with the new shoots as they continue to de¬ 
velop. If large and handsome blooms are 
required for exhibition, these shoots should 
be reduced to at least six on each plant. The 
superfluous growths that, are cut out should 
be inserted in some nice light sandy soil, such 
cuttings, when well rooted, being available 
for planting out later. By concentrating all 
the energies of the plant on the six shoots 
that are retained, it is possible to produce 
lurge and handsome flowers of true form and 
good colour. On tin* other hand, should a 
reader of these notes grow plants solely for 
the flower garden, in order to make a free 
and striking display, he had much letter 
allow the whole of the shoots that have clo¬ 
ve loped to go ahead unhindered. It is 
astonishing what plants treated in a natural 
manlier will accomplish in the course of a 
season. Although the flowers may not be so 
large in the case of plants treated in this 
fashion, the wealth of their display is re¬ 
markable. We have seen lieds and borders 
of plants treated in this way that have been 
simply a hlaze of colour, and the wonder is 
that the Tufted Pansies are not more freely 
used than is the case at the present time. It 
is imp Tfttiv, 1 , however, that spent blossoms 
and seed-pods should lie persistently removed. 

If there is any neglect in this matter, the 
plants immediately begin to deteriorate, and 
their display is brought to a somewhat pre¬ 
mature conclusion. They will, of course, 
flower, but not to anything like the same ex¬ 
tent as they would were they treated properly. 
Too much emphasis cannot be laid upon the 
importance of a weekly hoeing Ixdween the 
plants. 

Some of the more lanky and elongated 
growths of the varieties that find favour with 
Scotch growers need carefully looking after 
at this season. We regret that many do not 
possess that delightful tufted character of 
growth that we generally associate with these 
(plants, and in order to keep them in satis 
factory condition and lo ensure the blossoms 
developing in projier form, it is necessary, 
bv the aid of the trowel or some other tool, 
to work the soil round to the base of the 
plants. By these means the soil is drawn up 
to the growths that have evolved at the base 
of the plants, in this way maintaining the 
growths in an upright position. IT this were 
neglected, the strong winds would simply blow 
these coarse growing plants to one sole, and 
the display l>e anything but pleasing in 
consequence. 

At the present time seedlings raised in the 
early spring are making remarkably good 
progress. We have many now coming into 
flower. 

We have now to think of the propagation 
of plants for autumn planting, and to this 
end it is necessary to deal with some of the 
older plants for the purpose of providing 
stock with which to jierpetuate them. Cut 
back such plants near to the crown of each 
one, and if the grower has a few plants in 
an out-of-the-way place in the garden, so much 
the better. To supply an adequate amount 
of stock, alternate plants should lx* cut back, 
ns those left untouched will continue to in¬ 
crease in size and keep up the display. Plants 
cut back at the present time will, within the 
next two or three weeks, develop quite a 
large number of delightful little shoots some 
2 inches or 3 inches in length, and these of a 
kind that may be detached quite easily, and 
that will root very readily when inserted 
under proper conditions and in suitable soil, 
Prepare the cuttiifjfoe/l^eithe^lip4 i r the 


er conditions and in suitable i 
u* cuttii^m»cLeith^^ im^*r 


friendly shade of some low bush, or where 
filtered* sunshine may be experienced, or else 
in a rough frame somewhere where shade can 
be afforded during the hottest period of the 
day. Let the soil Ixj of a light and sandy 
character, and prepare this at once, so that 
as cuttings can be procured advantage may be 
taken of the opportunity to insert them from 
time to time. D. B. C. 

THE FIRE PINK (SILENE VIRGINICA). 
The handsome Fire Pink (Silene virginiea) is 
one of the best of our rock or border plants in 
gard’ius where it thrives, but it is far from 
pl< nhfnl at the present, time, and even good 
hardy plant ratalognes frequently fail (oxbow 
it among the many Catch-flies they comprise, 
it is unfortunate that it is so little grown, as 
it is extremely ornamental, with its dark- 
coloured, slender, and brittle stems, and its 
blooms of the most vivid scarlet we can have 
among flowers. It resembles in colour 6ome 
of the scarlet Lobelias, and when in good 
flower is exceedingly brilliant. The best 
plant I have Been for a considerable time was 
in the early days of June in the garden of 
General Stewart, Carruehan, Kirkcudbright 
shire, a garden where there is a capital col¬ 
lection of good hardy plants. It was, perhai>s. 
not quite so tall as I have met with it. being 
under a foot high, but this is a decided ad 
vantage, as its stems arc so brittle that it is 
hardly safe to tie them to a stick, and they 
arc* Best allowed to lie on the ground when 
they are long enough to require support. The 
Carruehan plant was, however, unsupported, 
and looked very fine in the border where it is 
cultivated. It is in rather peaty soil, and 
fully exposed to the sun. In such a wet dis¬ 
trict some protection from rain is desirable; 
General Stewart places a sheet of glass over 
it during wet weather, and to this lie largely 
attributes the success of this plant in a more 
than usually wet season, the first, ton days of 
June having shown a rainfall in execss of the 
average for the whole month—and that, too, 
after a wet May. 

That the Fire Pink requires a dry position 
may be gathered from its native habitats, 
where it is found in dry woods. Although 
named S. virginiea. it is by no means con¬ 
fined to that state, but is recorded from 
Southern New Jersey, Western New York, 
and from South-Western Ontario to Minne¬ 
sota. and south to Georgia and Missouri. 
In Virginia it ascends to as high as 4,200 feet. 
This handsome plant might be more largely 
cultivated in this country, especially in the 
drier districts, and it is probable that partial 
shade would be beneficial, seeing that it is a 
native of dry woods. Planting under trees 
would hardly suit it in a climate with so 
much summer rainfall as ours. An enemy of 
this handsome plant is the slug, and in gar 
dens troubled with this ]x*st some protection 
from its raids should lx* afforded. 

8. Arnott. 


NOTES AND PE PLIES. 

German Irises, moving. -fan these In* Hiicress- 
fully transplanted in July or August / 1 tried Novem¬ 
ber, and the slugs finished most of the plants; then 
April, and only two flowered this year out of six. 

I want to put in a few more to flower next year- 
certain. The nursery nun send them out without any 
soil to t-lie roots, so, of course, there is a check.— 
<J. U. It. 

[Flag Irises are best transplanted imme¬ 
diately after flowering is over. They should 
be put at once into good soil, ami well 
watered if the weather is at all dry. If this 
is done, they will make good root-growth be¬ 
fore the winter sets in, and should flower well 
during the following spring. If. however, 
they are not transplanted until the autumn, 
they will make but little root-growth, and 
arc, in consequence, not sufficiently estab¬ 
lished to flower freely.] 

Saving Sweet Pea seed In growing Sweet 
Peas for seeds is it considered best to cut oil the first 
lot of blooms, and thus get a greater height, or leave 
them on? —1$. P. 

[If you allow the first blooms to form seeds, 
you will check the growth of the plants, and 
so weaken them that no further flowers will 
develop. You cannot allow seed to develop 
at once and at the same time expect the 
plants to make a continuous display in the 
garden. But if you pick the first flowers 
and discontinue cutting, in reasonable time 


the later blooms will produce seed, so that 
you will be making the best of the plants.] 
Staking Michaelmas Daisies.— It is at this 
time that careful attention to the Michaelmas 
Daisies, in the way of staking and tying, has 
such a beneficial effect. The moist weather 
of late bus promoted growth, and the soft 
green shoots, from want of 6im to ripen them, 
are rather more sappy than usual. As a mat¬ 
ter of fact, some of the taller plants are get¬ 
ting a little top-heavy, and unless the growths 
have the support of a 6tout Bamboo-cane, or 
even stouter Hazel or other stake, they are 
sure to fall over or, possibly, snap off, and 
the beauty of the plants lx* thereby destroyed. 

It is a great thing to keep the growths per¬ 
fectly upright, and at the same time to do this 
in such a way that the natural grace and ele¬ 
gance of the growth are maintained. We find 
it a good plan where plants are placed out in 
rows to put. one stout stake at the end of the 
row, and Bamboo-canes or other stakes be¬ 
tween each of the plants—not close up to the 
plant. With tarred twine make a tic at one 
end of the row, going down one side and 
looping in the growths at each stake, return 
ing on the opposite side of the row in the 
same manner. In this way all the shoots 
may be kept within a loop like tie. with 
sufficient play allowed for the growths to fall 
naturally into position. This is much beti« r 
than inserting a stake for the support of each 
plant, and then tying in the growths to the 
individual stakes. There is always a ten¬ 
dency to give the plants a bunched-up ap- 
pearance when individually staked. A loop- 
like tic, loosely holding in the growths, is all 
that is required, and then the effect in the 
flowering season will lx* very beautiful. 

I). B. C. 

White Iris germanica. “Don,” page 191. 
inquires whether there is such a thing as a 
white Iris Germanica or white I. purailn; 
and the answer is “Yes,” to both, though it 
may require some qualification, because the 
“white” is not. pure in tone. Iris puinila 
alba has a certain amount of blue in its com¬ 
position. and so, too. has 1. florentina. Per¬ 
haps the whitest of the Germanica group is 
that known as I. albicans, Princess of 
Wales, a very satisfactory flower, very early, 
large, and free. Three others—viz., Mrs, C. 
Darwin, L’lnnoccnce, and Thorbeck —are 
virtually white flowered Flag Irises, but in 
each case the falls are more or less faintly 
reticulated with lilac or crimson near their 
bases. There should lx* no trouble in ob¬ 
taining any of these from the hardy plant 
dealers, and the varieties are highly desir¬ 
able in any collection. The various kinds 
supplied to*“ Don ” do not suggest great care 
with the slocks, and I hardly think such a 
thing would happen were the order placed 
with some reliable firm. Mrs. Darwin 1 re¬ 
gard as the most free blooming of all Flag 
Irises ; it is also, comparatively speaking, a 
dwarf grower. - E. II. Jenkins. 

Saxifraga Aizoon rosea. This variety re¬ 
ceived an award of merit at. the recent Tempi • 
show, and no new alpine more thoroughly de¬ 
served the honour. We have in Ibis very re¬ 
markable genus a large number of species and 
varieties with white flowers, and not a few 
that are neither white nor cream, while a 
large number have the blossoms more or less 
heavily spotted with crimson or pink. Here, 
however, we have an approach to self colour, 
and, doubtless, one of more pronounced tone 
will not now lx* impossible. S. A. Vnleana 
and S. Rolenatiana tho former with heavily- 
spotted flowers and the latter with pale pink 
blossoms—are the nearest approaches to the 
above, which stands out quite distinct from 
all. The plant is. as yet, rare, but as it be¬ 
longs to a section of free growth we may 
look forward to shortly seeing it more plenti¬ 
ful. The blossoms are well coloured, and the 
beauty of the plant is greatly enhanced by the 
richlv-coloured steins and footstalks immedi¬ 
ately above the well-encrustod rosettes of 
leaves. The plant, appears to grow quite 
freely in ordinary sandy loam, and lovers of 
choice alpines should make a note of this ex¬ 
cellent novelty, which came from the Craven 
Nursery, Clapham, Lancaster. E. II. 
Jenkins. 

Snapdragons. Juet as the humble Wall¬ 
flower 1ms developed many shachs of colour, 
sb ilso has the Snapdragon, and anyone get- 




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July G. 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


243 


the ground, and keeping the nets 3 feet from 
the plants. On each 6ide similar long poles 
are erected, and the nets, strained across, 
cover the Strawberry rows and Red Currants, 
on one side, a splendid crop, and on the 
other Gooseberries.—A. D. 

Peach tree dying (U. 1 ).).—Judging by the ap¬ 
pearance of the shoots you send us, wc should say 
your Peach-tree is in a state of collapse; but as you 
do not furnish us with the slightest amount of in¬ 
formation regarding the treatment you have been 
following, the nature of the soil, etc., we are quite 
unable to assign any reason for it. We can only 
conjecture that the root system has got disordered, 
perhaps as a result of the border having become 
exhausted and worn out, or it may be that the tree 
is dying from old age the latter, uo doubt, being the 
most probable cause. 

GARDEN WORK. 

Conservatory. -Now that the weather hat? 
become more settled, any large specimens of 
Palms, Bamboos, Orange-trees, Camellias, 
etc., may be placed outside for the summer. 
This is usually very beneficial if the plants 
receive the same care outside as was given 
inside. The position should be a sheltered 
one, or the winds may damnge the foliage. 
An ideal place for largo Ferns and Palms 
would be a shady, sheltered glen or dell, if 
possible, near water. A few of the hardiest 
stove plants may be moved to the conserva¬ 
tory now for a couple of months. These may 
include Achimenes, Streptocarpi, Gloxi¬ 
nias, Begonias, Bougainvilleas, Aealyphas. 
Dracaenas, etc. There is now plenty of 
Fuchsias, Tuberous Begonias, Zonal Pelar¬ 
goniums, Balsams, Celosias, Oleanders, Cras- 
sulas in variety, Hydrangeas, Myrtles in 
flower, Abutilons, Bruginansias. Carnations, 
with Japanese? Grasses and Asparagus in 
baskets or otherwise, to give lightness and 
groce. I always think at this season it is a 
relief to clear out some of the large plants 
which have borne the heat and burden of the 
winter, and fill up with fresh, young plants 
coming into flower. Help them on with weak 
liquid manure. The permanent plants in the 
borders may have some help now, either in 
the shape of top-dressings of good soil or 
liquid-manure, or both. The ventilation 
should be as perfect as possible, so as to 
always have a circulation suitable for our 
changeable weather conditions. No gardener 
will give the same amount of ventilation on 
a rough, windy day as when the weather is 
calm and bright. In like manner the atmos¬ 
pheric moisture will be given to meet the 
special needs of the plants, varying it in ac¬ 
cordant-* with the outside temperature. Keep 
the syringe away from plants in flower, 
though even here a light dewing over in the 
morning will be refreshing. 

Stove. —Shift on winter-flowering, Boft- 
wooded plants. Coleus thyrsoideus is easily 
propagated from cuttings of the young shoots, 
which make useful winter-flowering plants. 
They should be pinched once or twice during 
growth, and turned out in a cool house after 
a time to ripen. Aspidistras may be potted 
on, if large plants are wanted, using well- 
drained pots and sweet, open, turfy compost. 
The watering of newly-potted plants should 
be in careful hands. Much harm is done by 
those who cannot discriminate between a ro¬ 
om tlv-potted plant and one that is well estab¬ 
lished. Open out Caladiums and shade 
lightly when the sun is bright. The difficulty 
in a mixed house is to get the right colour in 
Crotons and Dracienas. They will not do 
altogether without shade in the middle of a 
hot day, and yet if too much shade is given 
we do not get the bright colour. Insects in 
such casts may be kept down by using mois¬ 
ture on the floors freely and vaporising occa¬ 
sionally. Thrips are very fond of the 
smooth leaves of Crolons and Dractenas, 
and, if permitted to get a footing, will soon 
do much mischief—in fact, they will spoil the 
plants. 

Orchard-house.- If Figs, Vines, or other 
fruit-trees in pots require npich feeding, 
place a zinc collar round the pot inside the 
rim, and fill it with rich compost. The roots 
will work into it. and the trees receive much 
l>enefit. When this is done there will not be 
the game necessity for using strong liquids, 
though the liquid stimulant may be| given 
occasionally. Too murh liaui|l msii^rtit^nds 
to make the soil sour. VPelNiFR at fbttslfmason 


require very free circulation, and the liou6e6 
should be so constructed as to permit of side 
air being given rather low down, to benefit 
the underside of the leaves. All trees should 
have night ventilation now, more or less, ac 
cording to the condition of the weather. If 
the supply of moisture Inis been adequate, 
there should be no red-spider. 

Early Vinery.- As soon as the Grains are 
all cut, use the syringe forcibly among the 
foliage. Usually there is no difficulty in 
ripening the wood of forced Vines. The fire 
will now have done its work, and a free cir¬ 
culation of warm air will complete it, and 
the sun will give enough warmth. See what 
condition the border is in, and, if dry. moisten 
with liquid-manure. Do not permit the Vines 
to make late growth, as it only encourages 
late root action, which excites the buds and 
shortens the resting jieriod. If there has 
been any shanking or any falling off in the 
quality of the Grapes, the roots may be lifted 
and a new border made next mouth, shading 
the house to keep the leaves ffesh. In this 
way there need be no loss of crop. In damp, 
low-lying situations keep the borders well up 
above the usual ground level. Free drainage 
is very important, as Vines cannot do well in 
water-logged ground. In lifting Vine roots, 
a little root-pruning will lx* beneficial, as it 
leads to the production of fibres, and so in¬ 
creases the number of feeding roots. Bones 
in any form are always useful in the border. 
Basic slag may also be used, and wood-ashes 
and lime. 

Tomatoes under glass. -These are now 
ripening, and a few of the bottom leaves may 
be shortened back, to let in the sunshine. If 
the borders are mulched with good stable 
manure it will save a good deal of labour in 
watering. Too much water causes the fruits 
to crack, especially if the roots have been dry 
at any time previously. Over-feeding with 
stimulants often leads to cracking. If the 
ventilation is ample, there is not likely to be 
much disease-. It is the stufTy atmosphere 
which usually breeds the fungus. If the best 
flavour is wanted in the fruits, let them 
ripen on the plants. The yellow Tomatoes 
are good-flavoured for the most part. 

The garden In the house. -Creeper 
covered screens are rather nice to surround a 
writing-table to place in front of a wide fire¬ 
place. The variegated Ivy (Hedera madeiren- 
sis) grows freely indoors, and makes a very 
useful screen plant. Maurandya Barclayana 
will quickly cover a small screen, and the 
plant flowers freely, while Asparagus plumosus 
has a charming effect as a drawing-room 
screen. 

Outdoor garden. -The early standard 
Briers will soon he ready for budding. It is 
useless budding if the hark of both stock and 
the plants from which buds are taken does not 
run freely, but a good watering or a wet day 
will loosen the bark, and budding should be 
done immediately. Where the stocks have 
been mulched with stable manure the mois¬ 
ture is retained and the bark is more elastic 
and works freely. In trimming the stocks do 
not shorten the shoots on which the buds are 
placed. Dormant buds make the strongest 
plants the following season, and if the stocks 
are shortened meet of the buds will start 
during the autumn, or earlier, and some will 
die during the winter, and most of the others 
remain weaklings. The shield of the bud 
need not be more than an inch long, two- 
thirds being below the bud and the remainder 
above. Be careful in extracting the wood 
that the heart or centre of the bud does not 
come away at the same time. This is not 
likely to happen when the bark works freely ; 
but if it does the bud will lx? useless. The 
bud in the standard Briers will be placed as 
near the main stem as possible, and be tied 
in firmly with 6oft matting or some other 
soft material, such as cotton or worsted. 
Better have a little practice on common trees 
or shrubs till the novice can handle the knife 
freely. The main thing in budding is to 
select the right time and do the work as 
expeditiously as possible. 

Fruit garden. —All fruit-trees, if over¬ 
loaded with fruits, should be thinned by the 
removal of the smallest, and this should be 
followed up bv applying a mulch of some 
good material as a top-drccsing. This work 


is attracting more attention, to the advantage 
of both the trees and the fruits. The young 
growths of Plums on walls may now be 
shortened back to four leaves, after reserving 
ns many shoots as are required for laying in 
where there is room. These young shoots in 
the future will bear freely, and, lying close 
to the wall, will escape the spring frosts. 
Thin the young grow ths of Raspberries. Old 
plantations usually produce a lot more shoots 
than can be utilised. We are often asked 
the (pies(ion why Cherries fall off in the ston¬ 
ing. A tree smothered with blossoms often 
only carries a meagre crop. Them? is, prob¬ 
ably, more than one cause. Very often these 
clusters of flowers are imperfectly fertilised, 
the bees 1x*ing busy elsewhere. Then a de¬ 
ficiency of lime or moisture in the soil will 
cause it. I believe if stone fruit, against a 
wall had more water in spring there would 
be a better set. 

Vegetable garden. -Those who think of 
spraying their Potatoes with Bordeaux mix¬ 
ture should soon commence operations. One 
of my amateur friends thinks he saved his 
crop one year by giving a sprinkling of newly- 
slaked lime. He had no spraying apparatus, 
but he had a stock of newly-slaked lime, ami 
with a shovel lie flung it freely about when 
the atmospheric conditions seemed to indicate 
that fungus spores were circulating. Dust 
soot freely over Celery if there is any likeli¬ 
hood of the presence of the flv, and the same 
treatment may be given to the Onion beds, 
where spring sown. Complete the thinning 
of all vegetable crops, and finish planting all 
winter greens. If any Cabbage plants re¬ 
main in the seed-bed, plant them out thickly, 
as Coleworts. Cut herbs for drying, and 
gather vegetables for pickling. Make a good 
sowing of Lettuces and Endives for late sum¬ 
mer and autumn salads. The Brown Cos may 
be included in this sowing and All the Year 
Round, a Cabbage variety. 

E. Hobday. 

THE COMING WEEK'S WORK. 

Extracts from a Garden Diary . 

./uht 8th. We are going over the fruit-trees 
to relieve a part of the crop of those which are 
heavily laden, leaving, of course, the best 
specimens. This will be continued as long 
as it is necessary. We are also using, as far 
as our means permit, rich compost us a mulc h 
on the surface over the roots of those trees 
which need help. 

July 9th. —Some of the standard Briers are 
being budded, as the bark now works freely. 
Cuttings of choice Pinks have been inserted 
in sandy soil in a frame where there is 
warmth in the remains of ail early hot-bed. 
Hydrangea cuttings have been planted under 
similar conditions. We find cuttings rooted 
now will carry one large bead of bloom in a 
5-inch pot next season. 

July 10th. —'There is a good deal of work in 
the flower garden now in pegging and staking 
various plants. Mulching, too, lias been done 
in the cose of Hollyhocks, Phloxes, etc. 
Spanish Irises are making a brave show now, 
and are useful for cutting. Pyrethrums also 
in much variety fill a void at this season, and 
are good for cutting. * 

July 11th. —A mulch also is being freely 
used in the kitchen garden among such things 
as Lettuces and Cauliflowers. Potted off early 
Cinerarias and Primulas. Shifted on young 
plants of Begonias for winter flowering. 
Show Pelargoniums as they go out of flower 
are placed outside to ripen grow th. Fuchsias 
as they get too old for conservatory arc 
planted out. 

July 12th. — Commenced layering Carna¬ 
tions and Pieotees. Heaps of gritty soil are 
placed round each plant into which the layers 
are pegged. They will, of course, be kept 
moist. Earthed up early Celery. Paper had 
previously been used to surround the heads, 
so that blanching is partly done, but a cover¬ 
ing of soil adds to the crispness of the Celery. 
Liquid-manure has been used freely. 

July 13th. —The Plum-trees on the walls 
have been gone over, and the x-oung wood not 
required for laying in has been shortened to 
four leaves. The fruits of Peaches have been 
exposed by thrusting the leaves on one side. 
When* i? mulch has riot been used a loose sur¬ 
face has been maintained by hoeing 


244 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


July 6, 1907 


BOOKS. 

“BEAUTIFUL GARDENS.”* 
Nowadays, when giurden literature is so 
hopelessly overdone, and many of the works 
published, owing to their authors’ scant 
knowledge and lack of discrimination, are 
absolutely useless to the amateur, or to one 
who wishes to learn either the rudiments or 
the higher hrauches of garden lore, every 
new production has to be carefully scru¬ 
tinized. In the volume under consideration 
the author gives on the various subjects 
treated full information that should prove of 
value to amateurs. He tells us that beautiful 
gardens are best formed by considering the 
immediate surroundings and working in con¬ 
sonance with them. Costly garden architec¬ 
ture. such as is too often met with, and the 
bedding system are both indicated as methods 
to be avoided, and it is pointed out that until 
it is learnt that the plant, its healthy growth,' 
and proper environment come first, the 
secret of true garden art will remain unmas¬ 
tered. In dealing witli the extent of gardens, 
the author justly insists that, it is not in size 
alone that beauty lies, and that as satisfying 
an effect can be produced with half ail acre, 
if laid out with due care and taste, ns with 
wide-spreading grounds. “ Designing a gar¬ 
den is one of the supreme joys of life,” since 
it gives scope for expressing individuality. 
The. teachings of Nature should be followed, 
so that art may be concealed and the best 
system of gardening is that which ignores 
unnatural art. as severely ns artificial Nature. 

A chapter is devoted to the making of lawns 
and the cutting up of fine stretches of turf 
into a patchwork of beds is rightly depre¬ 
cated. In treating of the herbaceous border, 
the nuthor writes: “With the great variety 
of plants which it accommodates, its im¬ 
mense range of colours, its long period of 
beauty, its diversity of height, and form, it 
possesses a powerful claim on our regard. 
Not the least of its attractions is the scope 
which it affords for beautiful combinations 
of flowers. Like the artist, with his palette 
and pigments, wo can devise picture**, dis¬ 
posing our plants as he disposes his figures, 
so as to secure rich and harmonious effects. 
It is this which appeals so strongly to cul¬ 
tured minds.” In the chapter on rock gar 
dens stress is laid on the point that should 
ever be paramount with their designers— 
namely, that it must, be “the plant first,---al¬ 
ways the plant first.” The stones must be 
used a« receptacles, not as statues. The 
flower and not the stone is what should at¬ 
tract the eye. “Good plants, good soil, good 
stones are the rook garden trinity.” In the 
list of rock plants given, Androsaces, Ery- 
throniums, Gentians, Linnoa borealis, and 
Soldanella alpina are included, but no bint 
is given that these often prove of difficult 
culture. In considering the subject of 
beautiful flower-beds, the author discourages 
the mingling a great many different kinds of 
plants in one bed, which invariably results 
in a jumble of inharmonious elements. 
Several example** of inexpensive and effective 
beds are given. In the chapter on “Beauti¬ 
ful bulbous flowers,” the amateur is advised 
not to copy the municipal gardener, since “a 
bed of. Hyacinths is a very unsatisfactory ob¬ 
ject.” Calochorti are mentioned amongst 
other bulbs, but, although very beautiful, 
there is scarcely a garden in England where 
they will prove true perennials. Belladonna 
Lilies and Crinuins are stated not to be 
hardy, but. over the whole of the south of 
these islands they arc certainly so. In treat¬ 
ing of trees and shrubs, the author empha¬ 
sises that the planter must endeavour to 
realize what each tree will be, not on the day 
of planting, but ten, twenty, or thirty years 
afterwards. The Eorsythias and Magnolias 
arc not winter bloomers, as they appear in 
the list, but spring bloomers. Valuable, ad¬ 
vice is given in the matter of staking plants 
and of the too common custom of tying the 
tall,' branching stems tightly to a single up¬ 
right it is said: “There is as much beauty- 
in a plant so treated as there is in a bunch 
of market Celery.” In the wild garden the 
amateur is recommended to plant in scat¬ 
tered, informal groups. “Plants must grow 
* “Beautiful Gardens ‘ -H ow to Make axid Maintain 
Them." By Walter P. W/igiu. .Cassell and *o,-*J,:.ndon. 

Digitized by VjOOQlC 


as if they originated in the plaees they oc¬ 
cupy, not as if they had been put there.” 

Special chapters are given to water-gar- 
dens, the house beautiful, wall-gardens, 
Ferns and ferneries, garden walks and edg¬ 
ings. Certain flowers, such ns Anemones, 
Perennial Asters. Begonias and Dahlias, Car¬ 
nations, Chrysanthemums, Narcissi, Gladioli, 
Irises, Lilies, Pieonies, Pansies, Phloxes, 
Roses, and Tulips have each a separate chap 
ter devoted to them, at the end of which the 
best varieties of the species are given. The 
extreme difficulty experienced in the success¬ 
ful cultivation of the Oncocyclus or Cushion 
Irises in the open posse** unmentioned, and 
when Lilium auratuin and L. longiflorum arc 
named, their general short life in the garden 
is not alluded to. L. Henrvi is said to he of 
doubtful hardiness, but it is questionable if 
we have a hardier species. The second part 
of the book, “A Garden Year,” should prove 
interesting and instructive reading to every , 
amateur, since it gives brightly-written de¬ 
tails of the formation of a new garden, with 
each mont.h’s*operations accurately and plea¬ 
santly described. “A Garden Remem¬ 
brancer,” that note** the work to be done each 
month in vegetable, fruit, and flower gar 
dens, as well as in the conservatory, con¬ 
cludes the volume. 

The book is profusely illustrated by over 
a hundred reproductions of photographs, 
some of which, such as “Rose. Felicite-Pcr 
peine.” “Rose Growing on ail Old Tree,” 
and “ R<kso -arch near Pool.” are very good. 
Some of the illustration** are. however, spoilt 
by the introduction of figures. The greatest 
fault connected with these pictures is that 
they appear to have been inserted in the 
book at random, scarcely a single one being 
placed opposite the page referring to it— 
some, indeed, being over thirty pages distant 
from their reference. Ten double page 
sketches of garden entrances, herbaceous 
borders, borders of annuals, shrub border. 
Water Lily pond, window boxes. Rezo gar 
dens, and arches accompany the work. Of 
these we may way that we consider, in “Gar¬ 
den entrances,” the edging of the lawn 
margining the carriagedrive, with a narrow 
border of herbaceous plants, entirely wrong. 
A far more restful appearance, would be 
gained if the lawn were allowed to meet the 
chive without any intervening border. The 
Lily pond, again, with its little islet in each 
arm, is too formal in shape, and it would be 
courting disaster to introduce such a “laud- 
grabber” as Tuszilago fragrans into an her¬ 
baceous border, as suggested in the sketch 
facing page 38. Cistuz ladaniforus—spelt 
“ ladaniferous ” in the plan of the shrub bor¬ 
der—is practically unprocurable in its true 
white form in England. 

On page 111 a misprint occurs, Crataegus 
Lclandi being spelt “Lalandi.” The Angli¬ 
cising of Latin names is not to be encouraged, 
and such a word as “ Salpiglossisos ” comes 
with rather a shock upon the reader. 

S. W. Fitziierbert. 

BEES. 

Foul brood Wliat ran be (lore for tny liets? 
There seems to he foul hrood in the hives. F. J., 
Stc'jriiin]. 

[Foul, brood is, doubtless, the worst enemy 
the bee-keeper ha** to deal with. Being of a 
fungoid growth, it is all important to stop its 
development, and it is found that this can 
be effected by flic use of salicylic acid. If, 
however, the disease is allowed to get to its 
worzt state, a cure is exceedingly difficult. 
A colony on being attacked by this disease 
rapidly dwindles on account of its inability 
to rear brood. In a healthy state the young 
grubs have a pearly white appearance, and 
lie curled round at the. base of the cell, but 
are found stretched horizontally, and of a 
brown colour, in the earlier stages of the 
disease, while in the advanced state the cells 
contain a dark, putrid substance, which 
emits a most disagreeable smell, perceivable 
some distance from the hive. The diseased 
cells appear singly upon the brood combe, 
of a dark colour, with their cappings slightly 
concave and pierced, while those containing 
healthy broods are slightly raised, and of a 
light colour. On the appearance of this 
disease the queen should be removed, and all 


cells containing foul breed uncapped and 
sprayed with ealicylie solution of the follow¬ 
ing proportions:—Salicylic, 1 oz. ; soda 
borax, 1 oz. ; water, four pints. The conibs 
and bees should then 1*3 placed in a fresh 
hive which has been washed with the above 
solution. Much trouble will be experienced 
in banishing this disease from the apiary if 
early remedial measures are not taken, for if 
allowed to assume its worst type the only 
alternative will be to remove the bees, de¬ 
stroy the combs, and scald and thoroughly 
cleanse the hive frames and floor boards, and 
paint them well over with salicylic solution. 
To ensure the perfect eradication of so for¬ 
midable a disease, threatening, as it does, 
the destruction of all the stocks of bees in 
the district, every possible endeavour should 
1*3 made to stamp it out thoroughly on its 
first appenrance.] 

There is no appearauco of foul brood 
in the piece of comb sent. It contains both 
honey and pollen, so your bees did not 
die from starvation. The comb is dark, but 
not very old. You might use the combe for 
another swarm, but it woidd lie better to 
melt them down for wax and start, the 6warm 
on foundation. Hives containing old combs 
ap|M*ar to be more liable to this disease than 
those that contain new, dean combs. As a 
preventive, there is. probably, nothing bet¬ 
ter than camphor. One or two pieces, about 
the size of a. Walnut, should 1** wrapped in 
rag, and placed upon the floor board of the 
hive. This has even been found to cure the 
disease, and without the removal of any of the 
hrood. The cappings of cells containing foul 
hrood are. slightly concave and pierced, of a 
dark colour, and apj**ar singly upon the 
brood comlts. You were unfortunate in your 
start in bee keeping. It is to be hoped that 
you will Ik* more successful in the coming 
season. S. S. C«. 

Transferring bees to frame hive (Lynx). 

'I’he Im*on having been driven into a zkcp, 

■ jin Ik* shaken into the frame hive at the- top. 
the quilt having been removed so that the 
bees can go down between the top bars. The 
frames should first be furnished with comb 
foundation, either in roll sheets or in strips 
about ti inches wide. After the bees have all 
been shaken out of the skep, the quilts should 
1*3 place<l lightly over the frames and the 
roof put on. Next day, the hive may I*: 
examined, and the frames closed up by means 
of the division boards. The bee** may, if it 
be preferred, 1*3 thrown down in front of 
the frame hive, a sheet or newspaper having 
first- Ikcii drawn over the alighting board to 
enable the bees more easily to find their way 
into the hive. You cannot drive direct from 
the original skep into the frame hive. It 
would not be wise to drive your bees now, 
as by so doing you will lose much brood in 
different stages of development. You could, 
of course, transfer the eomljs to the frame 
hive, fixing them in the frames by means of 
pieces of tape, to be removed when the bees 
have secured the eomljs to the frames. You 
send no address ; this should always be fur¬ 
nished. in addition to name, when sending 
queries. -8. S. G. 

LAW AND CUSTOM. 

Gardener and notice (Perplexed). You 
say there was no agreement ; but (surely there 
waz a verbal agreement of some sort? If, 
however, nothing was said when you were 
engaged as to the length of notice von were 
to give or receive, then it is a matter of cus¬ 
tom, and, in my opinion, you aro entitled to a 
month’s notice. With regard to the cottage, 
I suppose that was to 1*3 rent free, in con 
sideration of your taking a lower salary? If 
no figures were agreed upon as to the vain© 
of that, it would have to be estimated fairly, 
and if you are turned out of the cottage at a 
week’s notice (you cannot 1*3 turned out at 
less) the amount of the rent value of the 
cottage would have to be added to your salary 
for the remainder of the mouth. If your 
employer breaks his contract, you must re¬ 
member that your right against him k a 
right to claim damages (not wages), and the 
measure of damages to which you are en¬ 
titled is the value of the injury you can prove 
that you have suffered. - Barrister. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



Jui.y 6, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


9J5 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

Questions.— Qwn>* and aimptrs are inserted in 
Gardening free of charge if correspondents follow these 
rules: All communications should he clearly and concisely 
written on one side of the paper only, ami addressed to 
the Editor of Gardening, 17, Fumuni-street, Uolbon i, 
London, E.C. Letters on business should be sent to the 
Publisher. The name and address of the seiuler are 
required in addition to any designation he may desire to 
be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, 
each should be on a separate piece of paper, and not more 
than three queries should be sent at a time. Correspon¬ 
dents should bear in mind that, as Gardening has to be 
sent to press some time in admnee of date, queries cannot 
alicays be replied to in the issue immediately following 
the receipt of their communication. We do not reply to 
queries by post. 

Naming fruit. —Headers who desire our help in 
naming fruit should bear in mind that several specimens 
in different stages of colour and siz’ of the same kiiut 
greatly assist in its determination. We have received from 
several correspondents single specimens of fruits for 
naming, these in many cases being unripe and other- 
inse jtoor. The differences between varieties of fruits are 
tn many cases so trifling that it is necessary that three 
specimens of each kind should be sent. We mo undertake 
to name only four varieties at a time, and these only when 
the above directions are <•bxe.rvc.il 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

Spanish Iris leaves withering (Z. M.). — We 
find the foliage of this 1 1 is is best when the plants 
receive a few soaking* of water from the time the 
growth begins. In very hot and dry situations this 
browning of the foliage is generally found. In very 
hot, sandy soils a dressing of one third clay or 
heavy loam is also an advantage in eon junction with 
the above. Failing this, dress the beds at planting- 
time with decomposed cow-manure. 

Growing Tuberous Begonias (.V. A. PA. \ 
mixture of equal parts of fibrous loam and good leaf- 
mould with some well-rotted manure makes the best 
compost, and when the pots are full of roots a little 
weak liquid-manure will he beneficial. You can 
flower them in 6-incli or 7-inch pots, which will he 
quite large enough. It is advisable, however, to 
start them in 3-ineli pots, giving thorn one shift 
before putting into the flowering pots, as. unless 
great, care is taken when shifted into the blooming 
[Hits they may be over-watered and ruined. 

Rose Marechal Niel cankered (Catalpu ).—The 
binding on of Moss to the cankered part is not done 
to encourage roots, but rather to prevent the ennker 
from spreading, and the little rootlets that are pro¬ 
duced would lie practically valueless. But if you 
were enabled to so bend the growth that the cankered 
part could be placed into a large pot or into the 
border, this would soon provide you with another 
specimen, or it could remain as part of the original 
plant. We do not recommend the severing of the 
cankered part from the tree, or at least not until you 
are satisfied there is plenty of roots. 

Pelargoniums. Zonal, increasing <F. Epps).— 
There is no better time than early in the month of 
August for striking Pelargonium cuttings, and one of 
the easiest methods is to dibble them into boxes or 
pots filled with sandy loam, or, ns is often done, in¬ 
serting them in the border, adding to this some , 
coarse sand, which will help the cuttings to root, 
afterwards lifting them, potting them, and storing 
away on the greenhouse shelf where they are free 
from frost. If you strike in boxes or pots, you can 
leave the cuttings in such till the spring, when they 
may be potted off singly. You cannot, however, keep 
them in a oold frame during the winter. 

Monchosnia riparium ( M . A.).—This, which 
comes from South Africa, resembles, when out of 
bloom, a green-leaved Salvia. The flowers are small, 
pinkish-white, with purple anthers, and borne in 
terminal panicles. It begins to bloom in December, 
and lasts well into the new- year. It is best in¬ 
creased from cuttings every year. The plants should 
lie cut down immediately after flowering and given 
warm, moist treatment to start them into growth. 
When the cuttings are about 3 inches long, they 
should he at once put in. It will thrive given the 
same treatment as Salvia splendens. and is a very 
useful plant for the greenhouse in the dull months 
of the year. 

Spot in Carnations (Malmaison ).—Too much 
moisture is a sure forerunner of this dreaded disease. 
Do not water the plants until really necessary, and 
then use every care that the foliage is not wetted in 
tin? operation, using a long-spouted can for the pur¬ 
pose. We should cut off the worst patches, and then 
dust the whole of the plants with a mixture of snot 
and sulphur, washing this off after a couple of days, 
laying the plants on their side, and syringing with 
clean water, repeating the dose even twice or thrice. 
Give the plants abundance of ventilation on line 
days, ami the night temperature should be from 
40 degs. to 50 (legs., according to the weather. Place 
the plants in the lightest position, allowing plenty of 
space between each one, overcrowding being another 
cause of the Malmaison Carnation going wrong in 
the way yours have done. See also “ Short Replies.” 

Cyclamens after blooming (Shrub). — The 
Cyclamens that are now stood out-of-doors must not 
he allowed to get parched up; at the same time 
enough water only should be given to keep the soil 
slightly moist. A good time for repotting is about 
midsummer. In carrying this out the corms must 
be shaken quite clear of the old soil, and repotted in 
a mixture of two parts loam to one of leaf-mould, 
the fourth part made up of sand and well-decayed, 
dried cow-manure, this last being rubbed through a 
sieve. After potting, the plants may be stood in a 
frame on a bed of coal-ashes made firm and level. 

If possible, the frame should be so situated that it 
is shaded from the full rays of the sun during the 
hottest, part of the day; Jf-^iot, ; 
kind must be resorted to/ whwv 


plants will need very little water; but the supply 
must be increased as the roots take possession of the 
new soil and the leaves develop. The plants may be 
allow-ed to remain in the frame till the end of 
August, when they should be removed into the 
greenhouse, giving them a good light position 
therein. 

Rose buds (J. E.).— There are several firms who 
advertise in these columns who would be able to 
supply you with plants in pots from which you could 
obtain buds this summer; but wc know of no one 
who would sell buds of new Roses. The following 
sorts would make excellent standards; Charles J. 
Grahame, Countess of Annesley, Countess of Gos- 
ford, Dean Hole, Earl of Warwick, Dr. J. Campbell 
Hall. Florence Pemberton, Mme. Hector Leuilliot, 
Hugh Dickson, J. B. Clark. Oherhofgartner A. 
Singer, Warrior. Celia, Lady Wenloek, Mine. Jenny 
Gillemot, Konigin Curolu, Joseph Hill, and George 
Luing Paul. 

Rose shoots damaged by Insects (Q. 11.).— 
Tiie incisions that had been made iu the foliage of 
shoot sent were caused hy the mason bee. This is a 
most troublesome pest, mid there is no remedy be¬ 
yond watching for the depredators and killing them. 
They make their nests in hard gravel paths, nnd also 
in holes in trees, walls, etc. If you watch on a 
fine morning you will Bee these little bees fly about 
the plants, and at times they appear stationary on 
the wing, just like a hawk. They then make a dash 
for the leaf, and saw off quite a big slice, and inay 
then ho seen flying off with it towards their nest. 
We have caught these pests by the aid of a syringe. 
Stand iu the vicinity, and as soon as a bee is seen 
fire the jet of water upon it, when you may quickly 
bring him to the ground. We thought, from the ap¬ 
pearance of one of the shoots, that you had some of 
the ordinary Rose grubs. Hand-picking is tlie best 
remedy for these. 

Plants for bank (M. T Sample).— Among Kerns 
you might select at will from the strong-growing 
Lastreas and Athyriums; also Polypodium vulgare 
and its varieties. The former are of large and free 
growth, but could not now be planted unless pot- 
plants were obtainable; planting season, October to 
March, inclusive. Other suitable plants include 
Mossy Saxifragas, for north side, also Haxifraga 
Geum and S. umhrosa, Lenten Roses would lie espe¬ 
cially good for the north side, while the Megasea 
section of Saxifraga, and such kinds as lingniata and 
cordifolia purpurea, ill particular, would do well iu 
either position. For the south side, some of the . 
Aubrietms, alpine Phloxes, Thymus laimginosus, 
Saxifraga ligulata, S. eoehlearis, S. apiculata, S. 
saneba, Alyssum, Sapnnaria ocymoides, Arenaria 
montana. Dianthus ciesius, Helmuthemums, Thrift, 
Silene alpcsl-ris, etc. If the shade is not too dense, 
Wood Anemones and Primroses would be charming. 
Muscari conicum and the finer forms of Scilla cam 
panulata, among bulbous tilings, are worth a place, 
and many Narcissi would thrive for some years. 

Dracaena leaves in bad condition (II. E. .1). 
—The enclosed leaf is not that of a Palm, its correct 
name being Cordylinc australis, though it is also 
known in gardens as Draeicnu mdivisa. Without 
seeing the plants or knowing anything of the treat¬ 
ment it has received, it is quite impossible for us to 
state the reason of its ill-health. It inay have been 
too dry at the roots, or too wet, the latter being the 
more probable of the two, or it may he pining from 
want of light and air. It is hardy in the southern 
counties of England, so that it needs plenty of light 
and air, especially during the summer months. If 
you turn the plant out of the pot and examine the 
roots, you will probably find that many of them are 
dead, in which ease the old soil should be removed, 
and the plant re|»otted into a compost made up of 
loam, peat, and sand. Most likely the pot in which 
it now is will be large enough for it again, in which 
case the pot should he washed clean, and allowed to 
become dry before the plant is repotted in it. The 
pot must be effectually drained with broken crocks. 
In the case of plants being kept indoors, under no 
circumstances should water be allowed to remain in 
the saucers the pots are stood in. 

Sparmannia afrlcana (Shrub ).—After Spar- 
mannias have attained a good size—that is to say, 
in pots from 12 inches to 15 inches iu diameter— 
they will not need repotting every year, as they do 
not flower so freely when making strong growth as 
they will if the roots are cramped. If, in your 
opinion, the plants need shortening back and also 
repotting, the pruning should he done immediately, 
and in a fortnight’s time they may be repotted. It 
would have been much better if both these opera¬ 
tions had been carried out during the month of 
April. Throughout the summer the plants must he 
stood where they are fully exposed to the rays of 
the sun; and under such treatment the wood is firmer.- 
the leaves smaller, and the flowers far more 
numerniis than if they are kept under glass and more 
or less shaded. When out-of-doors, and the pots are 
full of roots, an occasional dose of liquid manure will 
he very helpful. The Eupatoriums may he given the 
same treatment as that recommended for Sparman¬ 
nia. Of course, both must he taken under cover 
before the frosty nights of autumn. 

TREES AND SHRUBS. 

Pruning the Byringa (Shrub).—The best time to 
prune this is as soon as possible after blooming. 
Before sending further queries, kindly read our rules 
as to sending name, writing on one side of the paper 
only, and putting the queries on different sheets. 

Increasing the Mistletoe (Dors).- There is no 
difficulty whatever about this. Place the seeds on 
clean smooth bark in April or May, and cover with 
a thickness of muslin or gauze to keep away the birds. 
Many put the seeds on at Christmas before they are 
sufficiently ripe. Never cut slits in the bark into 
which to insert the seeds; simply apply them to the 
underside of the clean bark. You will see no 6igns 
of growth until after the seed has fallen away, but 
if you examine the place then, you will find that the 



hark is swelling beneath the spot whereon the seed 
was placed, and the second year the young leaves 
ami shoots appear. 

Treatment of dwarf Japanese trees (Paign¬ 
ton).—Your dwarf Jupanese trees will only need the 
average attention given to plants grown iu pots—that 
is, sufficient, water to keep the *oil in a moderate 
state of moisture and an occasional syringing to re¬ 
move any dust which may accumulate on them. No 
trimming of the roots or cutting in any way is re¬ 
quired, as the plant has been gradually inured to 
this semi-moribund state by a process of semi-starva¬ 
tion till ito stunted condition has become chronic. 
If the soil becomes too much wasted, add a little 
more. If some of the dwarf frees are planted out, 
as you seem to imply, then they will grow freely, 
probably, and will require cutting in. We have 
never heard of their being planted out. 

Wistaria failing (Mrs. II. 0. Wilson).—Judging 
by the shrivelled appearance of the stems and the 
puny character of the young shoots, we should say 
that the roots of your plant are in a very bad state 
and that it may die. Wistarias, however, are of so 
recuperative n nature that wc have known trans¬ 
planted specimens shrivel somewhat and remain with¬ 
out any growth till the end of the summer or nearly 
so, when young shoots were pushed out, and the 
follow ing year the plants grew away as if not hing had 
happened. It is much more difficult to advise by 
correspondence than if the plant itself wore under 
ones observation; but we should try the effect of 
mulching with a mixture of well-decayed manure 
and soil, giving occasionally a good soaking of 
water. This will very likely give your plant a new 
lease of life, and it may grow freely before autumn. 
The pruning of the stem three years ago is not 
likely to have affected the permanent health of the 
plant to any extent. 

Wistaria not blooming (M. ('. li. II.). — If (he. 
shoots of the Wistaria are too much crowded they 
may he thinned out; lint, whether such is the case 
or not. you will find summer pruning a great help to 
the production of blossoms. This is carried out in 
a somewhat similar manner to the spur system 
adopted with Vines, or, rather, a system combining 
that with the plan generally adopted for fruit-trees, 
which hear their fruit, and flowers on old spurs. In 
the month of July all shoots that may he reserved 
on the main or leading stems should he pinched hack 
to within a foot of the main stem, in order to cheek 
the rampant growth. These shoots will again break 
into growth from the buds just behind where the 
shoot, was stopped, and, after these shoots have 
grown a few indies they should be again stopped. 
The result will he the formation of flower-spurs at 
the foot of the shoot first shortened. Early in the 
following spring these shoots should he cut back to 
within five or six eyes of the main stem, and the 
young growths from these eyes are then to bo treated 
in the same way as those of the previous year. 

FRUIT. 

Two good Melons i If. N. II .).—Two excellent 
varieties of Melons are Hero of Loekingc, white 
flesh, and Windsor Castle, green flesh. Both are. 
superior ill point of flavour, and are free croppers. 
On stating your requirements to a good nurseryman 
he would send you as many plants as you may 
require. 

Thinning Grapes (M. 0. W'.).— The thinning of 
the berries should be done as early as possible. It- is 
a great waste of power to allow the berries not re¬ 
quired to develop, therefore, as soon as they are 
well set, thin out the berries at once, and also cut 
off any bunches that are not required. Never leave 
two hunches on one spur. You ought to get ” Vines 
and Vine Culture,” by the late Mr. A. F. Barron. 

Victoria Plum not fruiting (Dr. Greene).— 
Plums are very apt to make exuberant growth, and 
arc unfruitful for a few years after they are planted. 
To correct this, lifting is the only remedy, and once 
the trees commence bearing they seldom give further 
trouble. You should lift the tree in the autumn and 
shorten back the longest of the thong-like roots to 
encourage the formation of more fibrous ones. 
Mulch the surface with some stable-litter to ward 
off the frost during the winter months. 

Apricots failing (H\ M .).—On culling open the 
fruits you send we rind the kernels or germs to be 
iu a watery imperfect condition, which accounts for 
the skin turning brown, and. if they have not done 
so already, all that are similarly affected will soon 
drop from the tree. This disorder is generally the 
outcome of the roots having come into contact with 
or pushing down into a cold and clayey subsoil, the 
remedy for which is to lift and transplant the tree 
as early in autumn as can lie done. By lifting the 
roots and laying them out in a nearly horizontal 
direction, affording at the same time a fair modicum 
of turfy loam with an addition of lime rubbish, the 
evil call be easily remedied. Then, if the roots are 
encouraged, and fed from the surface by means of 
mulchings and applications of artificial manures, such 
as hone-meal, Peruvian guano, dried blood, parti¬ 
cularly after the stones contained in the fruits have 
set or hardened, they seldom give further trouble. 
When Apricots set a very heavy crop, the trees 
invariably cast a good number of fruits, but before 
they reach so large a size as those you send us. 

The pith-moth (Laverna atra) (Learner ).—You 
are quite correct in your supposition. Lightning has 
had nothing to do with the dying back of the young 
shoots and spur wood on the Apple-trees in question. 
The damage has been caused by the larvre of the 
pith moth (Laverna atra). which insect bores into 
and tunnels along, devouring in its course the pith 
of the young wood in the spring months, with the 
result that the leaves are first seen to be drooping 
on the infested wood, and on examination the latter 
is found to tie either dead or in a dying condition— 
exactly as is the case with the specimens you send 
us. So far as we can glean, no remedy has been 
discovered for combating this pest, and the only 
thing you ean_do is to cut back to a sound or living 
portion of wood all infested shootjs directly you 


246 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


July 6, 1907 


detect any mischief. Burn all pieces of wood so re¬ 
moved. which will destroy all larva; contained therein 
and help to lessen future attack. In the winter 
spray the trees twice with caustic alkali solution, the 
last'time the end of January, and watch results 
when growth recommences. 


SHORT REPLIES. 

K. B.— See article on “Growing Seakale,” in our 
issue of February 24th, 1906, p. 672. A copy of the 
above can be had, post free, for lid. Kindly read 
our rules as to sending name and address when ask¬ 
ing any queries. Linton.— The only thing you can 

do is to syringe them with some insecticide and in 
the winter, when the trees are leafless, dress with 
the caustic alkali solution, which has been so often 
recommended in these pages. The Tomatoes you 
send have been attacked by black spot. See reply 

to Mrs. Cross ley, in our issue of June 8th, p. 184.- 

G. R. Wood .—See reply to your query in our issue of 

May 4tii, p. 124.-.4. Donovan .—Impossible to form 

any idea as to the value of your Delphinium, as the 

spikes had all fallen to pieces.- Bonnland.—Your 

Madonna Lilies have, unfortunately, been attacked 
by the fungus which has proved so disastrous of 
recent years. See reply to Miss Shaw, re “Orange 

Lilies failing,’’ in our issue of June lath, p. 203.- 

Bee. E. V. draff .—The flower-stems you send are all 
what is known as fasciuted. You say nothing what¬ 
ever as to how or where the plants are growing. 
If growing under glass, the plants evidently want 
more air to prevent damping of the blooms. Pick out 
all the bad flowers, so as to allow the others to 

fully develop.- Miss M. M. Acton.—Please send a 

complete plant. The trouble, wc fear, lies at the 
roots, and is due to the presence of wire worm in the 
soil.- Glendalough.— 1, We should leave the Euca¬ 

lypti alone until you see whether they will start into 
grow t ii. If they do, then you can cut them down 
to where the shoots start from. We doubt, however, 
if they will survive, and it would be better to plant 
fresh specimens. 2. You can plant the Jasmine at 
any time from October to Marcli if the weather is 

open.- Bearsdni, Glusgoic. — Wv should, judging 

from the specimens you send, say that the trouble is 
due to some deleterious gases in the air. the leaves 
looking as if they had been scorched. The clay sub¬ 
soil, too, may have something to do with tlie failure, 

as the roots may be waterlogged.- 'I'. H. Gray.— 

Try what burning out the barrel will do. Put in 
some shavings, mixed with a little paraflln, and set 
lire to it and note the result. After doing this we 
do not fancy any bad elfects will follow using the 
water for plants. Try it first on one or two, and see 
what happens.- Kew .—Earl Carrington is the Pre¬ 

sident of the Board of Agriculture.— —F. L. Ed¬ 
ward*. -Scolopendriuni vulgare, in addition to the 

English name of Hart's-tongue Fern, is also known as 

Burnt-weed. Button Hole, and Horse-tongue.- 

Ailcen Walsh .—Your letter was open on arrival, no¬ 
thing enclosed.- A. J. P .—In such a small house 

paying crops are out of the question.- Constantine. 

—The failure of the Rose to open is, no doubt, dm: 
to the cold, sunless weather we have been and arc 

still having.- Paddy.— The whole question of using 

artificial manures for your Roses depends entirely on 
the soil you have. As to this, you give us no informa¬ 
tion. Seeing, however, that you have abundance of 
farmyard-manure, we see no reason whatever why 
you should trouble about t lie use of artificial 

manures.- Arjuileyia, Cheadle. Staffs. — The sample 

of soil you send, marked “ Cresford soil,” which, we 
suppose, is the poor soil to which you refer, is poor 
in the extreme, and we do uot wonder at plants 
failing in it. Add some good loam and plenty of 
cow-manure, and then we think plants will grow 
away freely in it. An addition of good loam would 

benefit the* other sample. - J. L.-We could find no 

insects in the box you send. The Rose leaves were 
quite dried up. 


NAMES OF PLANTS AND FRUITS. 


Names of plants.-J. A. II. Melford. — A poor 

seedling form of Rosa polyantlm.-A'. JV. Stainland. 

— W h i tlav ia gra nd iflora.- St.G.— l, Ve roil ica Ly a Hi; 

2. Potentilla fruticosn; 3. Campanula garguuiea.- 

Murray T. Poster.— Hellcborus orientalis or H. 

viridis; must see fresh flowers.- Horace.— Rose 

Reine Marie Henriette.- Smilax.— 1, Late flower of 

Magnolia Soulangeana; 2, Iloya carnosa; 3, Lantana 

var.- F. Williams. — We do not undertake to name 

florist flowers.- Fennel.— 1, Neilliu opulifolia aurea, 

better known in gardens as Spirira opulifolia auren; 

2 . Spirsca cantoniensis flore-pleno.- Eye.— Passiflora 

Constance Elliott (white form of 1*. ccerulen).- 

Thyme.— 1, Veronica spicata; 2. Dianthus deltoides; 

3, Silene Armeria; 4, Meseinbryantliemum sp. Kindly 

read our rules as to the number of plants we under¬ 
take to name weekly.- E. M. D.— The Orange Ball- 

tree (Buddleiu globosa). - Heaton.—Wc cannot 

undertake to name florist flowers. - L. F. Walker.— 

Specimen insufficient.- Lount.— 1, Rose very much 

crushed, but is probably Carmine Pillar: 2, Cratsegus 

orientalis.- Huyh Alderney. — Erodiuni macra- 

denium.- Mrs. palmer.— The Orange Lily (Liliuin 

eroceum).- Ret. J. E. Kelsall.— The Spiked Rampion 

(Phyteuma spicatum).- E. J. Cooyer.— Rose I>r. 

Rouges.- Geo. D. Hale.— Rose Climbing Devoniensis. 

-- Miss Osbourn.— 1. The Silver Wattle is Acacia 

dcalbata; 2, You will find the name Magnolia in all 
catalogues. We know of no such climber as you 
mention. If you want something to cover a wall 
quickly, then you should get one of the many fine, 

small-leaved forms of Ivy.- E. Grays.—I, Justicia 

carnea; 2 and 3, Next week; 4, Cyperus laxus; 5, 
Rhyncosperinum jusminoides; 6, Bcrberidopsis coral- 
1 ina. probably, should prefer to see flowers.— H. F.— 
1, Clematis Jackmani tunbridgensis; 2, Clematis 
Florida Lucie Lemoine. 


Catalogue received.—Danwiam , 
Giovanni a Teduccio, B»l 


FLOWER 

SHOW 

FIXTURES. 

1907 . 


JULY. 

July 3.—Botanical and Hort. Society, Birmingham Second 
Summer Show; Ipswich llort. Society Sum¬ 
mer Show. 

,, 4.—National Rose Society’s Show in Royal Botanic 
Cardens. 

„ 5.—Gresford and District Rose Society’s Show. 

,, 0.—Royal Horticultural Society’s Holland House 
Show (2 days). 

„ 10.—Southend-on’-Sea and Distriot Horticultural 
Society Summer Show. 

,, 11.—Farningham Rose and Hort. Society. 

,, 17.—Women’s Agricultural and Hort. International 
Union Show at Botanic Gardens. Regent’s-park. 

„ 28.—R.H.S. Committees. 

,, 24.—Alton Horticultural Society. 

,, 25.—Royal Ulster Agricultural Society's Flower Show 
(2 days). 

„ 27.—Litherland and District Horticultural Society ; 
Lydney Horticultural and Cottage Garden 
Society. 

„ 31.—M idland Oarnation and Picotee Society (2 days). 


IMPORTANT 


Gardeners 

AND 

Fruit 

Growers, 

NIQUAS 

(REGISTERED). 



The most Successful 

NON-POISONOUS INSECTICIDE 

of the day. 

ITS ADVANTAGES ARE: 


AUGUST. 

August 6.—R.H.S. Committees; Scarborough Garden 
Allotment Holders' Association Show ; Scar¬ 
borough Hort. Society. 

„ 14.—Glaesford Horticultural Society. 

„ 16.—Darweu and Distriot Hort. Society (2 days). 

„ 20.—R.II.S. Committees; Brighton and Sussex 

Hort. Soc. Summer Show (2 days). 

,, 23. —Highland Horticultural Society (Inverness). 

„ 24.—Northfield Horticultural Society. 

SEPTEMBER. 

September 4.—Alnwick Horticultural Society. 

,, 7.—Euxton and District Horticultural Society. 

„ 11.—Royal Caledonian Horticultural Society 

Autumn Show (2 days). 


Certain Death to all Insect Pests. 

No possible injury to the most delicate 
Plant, Flower, or Foliage. 

It is by far the cheapest Insecticide 
known. One pint makes ten to 
twelve gallons for Thrip, Black and 
Green Fly, etc., whilst RED SPIDER, 
Mealy Bug, and Scale can be 
thoroughly eradicated by using 
"NIQUAS” double or three times 
the strength required for Fly. 


OCTOBER. 

October 1.—R.II.S. Committees. 

„ 15.—Show of British-grown Fruit (3 days). 

„ 29.—R.H.S. Committees. 

NOVEMBER. 

November 6.—Brighton and Sussex Hort. Soo. Chrys. 

Show (2 days); Southend-on-Sea Chrys. 
Show (2 days). 

„ 7.—Newport (Mon.) and District Chrys. Soc. 

t , 12.—R.H.S. Committees ; Ipswich Hort.Society 
Chrys. Show (2 days). 

„ 26.—Show of Colonial-grown Fruits and Vege¬ 

tables (3 days). 


DECEMBER. 

December 10.—R.H.S. Committees. 

„ 11.—Show of Market Chrysanthemums and 

Carnations in Foreign Flower Market, 
Covent Garden. 

We shall be glad if Secretaries of 
Horticultural Societies will send the 
dates of their various shows. 



GARDEN- 

HOSE 

OF RELIABLE QUALITY. 


BENETFINK & CO., Ltd., 

107 & 108. CHEAP8IDE, LONDON. 


D Quality Host 1 , Red or Drab, 30ft. and 60ft. lengths only. 

tin. Jin. jin. 

1 ply. 12 8 16 - per 60ft. 

2 ply. 36 - 38 9 22 6 „ 

3 ply. 18 9 22 6 26 3 

ENGLISH HAND-MADE. 

Bist Quality Rubber. Specially Woven Canvas. 

X Quality, White lin. Sin. 2in. lin. 

2 ply.5d. 5id. 7d. 9id. per ft. 

3 Ply. 5/1. Yd. 8Jd. Ilk- „ 

R Quality, Red Jin. Jin. Jin. lin. 

2 ply.7id 8d. 9id. per ft. 

3 ply.8d. 9Jd lid. l'2id. „ 

Orders 5/- and over CARRIAGE PAID in United 
Kingdom. Prices quoted do not include fittings, and 
are for not less than 30ft. lengths. 

Write for CATALOGUE "G.” 


PRICES —Pint, 1/-; Quart, 1/9; \ Gallon, 
3/- ; Gallon, 5/-. Kegs, each, 5 Gallons, 
22/6 ; 10 Gallons, 42/6. 

SPECIMEN TESTIMONIAL. 

From Mr. E. Hubbard, Gardener to G. Han bury. Esq.. 
Blythewood, Burnham, Bucks. —“I have lieen using your 
’Niquas’ Insecticide for Borne years, and can with all con¬ 
fidence say it is the best I ever used ; for Bug, Thrip, Red 
Spider, American Blight, and for all Insect Pests it has no 
equal. Also for the destruction of Maggots in Marguerites by 
dipping. I have recommended it to my friends generally." 


LETHORION 

Improved Metal 

VAPOUR 
CONE 

At Greatly 
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INTRODUCED 1885. 

This well-known invention for the entire eradication of all 
pests infesting vegetation under glass is now manufactured 
in a more simple and reliable form. The small candle (which 
will lx? found packed with each Cone has only to be lighted 
and placed on the ground in the centre of the Cone Frame 
to produce immediate results. Nothing in the market can 
equal it for efficacy and cheapness. 



Registered Trade Mark. 


Cone No, 3, for a well-secured house of cubic 2,000 to 2,500 
feet, Is. each. 

Cone No. 2, for a well secured houBe of cubic 1,000 to 1,200 
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Cone No. 1. Carbon, for frames of cubic 100 feet, 6d. 

Full Directions accompany each. Cone. 


Ask for n list of Testimonials, of which some 
hundreds have been received from the lead¬ 
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TO BE HAD FROM ALL SEEDSMEN & FLORISTS 


MANUFACTURED BY 

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At their Bonded Chemical Works , Shad Thames, S.E. 
Offices and ShowroomB— 

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GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 

No. 1,479. "V OL. XXIX. Founded by W. Robinson, Author of “ The English Flower Garden." JULY 13, 1907. 


INDEX. 


Achimenea 

Alonsos incisifolia os a 
basket plant. 

Anchusa italics (the 
Dropmore variety) .. 
Apple-ahootn, diseased 
Arbutus, increasing the 
Azaleas, grafting 
Bees 

Brocooli, late, on l*or- 
tlers 

Cabbages. bolting 
Campanula# 

Ceanothus rigidus 
Celcwiaa in autumn 
Cherries failing .. 
Chrysanthemums 
Cb r y ssn lliemum k— 
growing three plants 

in a pot. 

Chrysanthemums, old.. 
Climbers, greenhouse .. 
Clover in tennis-lawn .. 


251 

Conservatory 

258 

Hellebore powder 

252 

Outdoor plants .. 

255 

Rose, China, a pretty .. 

254 


Cucumbers 

259 

Indoor plants 

251 

Pieonies not flowering.. 

260 

Rose Climbing Frau 


251 

Dowingia (ClintoDia) 


Laburnum, pruning the 

260 

Peach leaves injured .. 

2-ki 

Karl Drusehki 

253 


pulchella 

260 

Lailio-Cattleya Digby- 


Peaches, mildew on 

218 

Rose Crimson Rambler 


256 

Driniy* W iuteri.. 

249 

ano - Mossite t^uocii 


Peas, excess of haulm 


from cuttings .. 

253 

248 

Fernery, improving the 

258 

Alexandra 

257 

in. 

258 

Rose Gardenia .. 

251 

260 

Ferns . 

2ol 

I.aw and custom 

259 

Peas. Sweet. 

255 

Rose I.ady Sarah Wil- 


251 

Ferns in the house 

251 

leaves turning yellow 

260 

Philadelphia 

260 

son . 

253 

252 

Flower notes, hardy 

255 

Lettuces attacked by 


Pinks . 

256 

Rose Lady Waterlow 



Flowers in masses. 


wire worm 

252 

Plants and Bowers 

251 

HIT). 

251 

258 

hardy. 

256 

Li bored rus macrolepis 

250 

Plants, increasing bed- 


Rose-leaves curling 

260 

258 

Fruit . 

247 

liilium candidum dis- 



256 

Rose Isonic Ijanicsch 

i 

25-i 

Fruit garden 

259 

eased. 

252 

Plants round the house 

259 

(dwarf Polyantha) .. 

254 | 

260 

(iarden diary, extracts 


Lycivste.s. 

257 

Potatoes, Scotch, Irish, 


Rose Mignonette, I’oly- 


251 

from a. 

259 

Manchester Horticultu- 


and English .. 

258 

itnthn . 

251 , 

24K 

Garden pests and friends 

252 

ral and Botanical 


ItaspIsTricH failing 

260 

Rose Mme. Berard 

254 i 

262 

Garden work 

268 

Society, tho .. 

260 



Rose Mine. Pierre 



Gladiolus The Bride .. 

256 

Moutbretias 

256 


249 


254 


Gooseberry mildew 


N iercml**rgia filicaulis 

255 

Rose Ards Pillar 

254 

Rose Viscountess Folke- 


252 

(Sphaerotheca Mors- 


Orchids. 

257 

Rose Armosa nr Her- 


stone . 

853 1 

252 

uvae, Berk.), Anicri- 


Osiers, tho cultivation 



251 

Rose, wild, growths on 

252 

2b l 

can . 

247 

of. 

850 

Rose-buds eaten by in- 


Roses Aglaia and Elec- 


256 

Grapes failing to set .. 

248 

Outdoor garden .. 

259 

sects . 

260 

tra . 

1-.4 


Roaes . 

Roses, disbudding ex¬ 
hibition . 

Roses wit h green centres 
Sawdust manure 
Stocks, Brompton 
Stocks dying 
Stove, an extemporised 
Strawberry Givon’s Pro¬ 
lific . 

Strawberry - Kentish 
Favourite, a now 
Strawberry plantations. 

making new .. 

Trees and shrubs 
Tulips. May 
Utriculnria niontana .. 
Vegetable garden 
Vegetables 

Viburnums, some good 
Vinery, late 

Weeks work, the 
roniing. 


253 

254 


256 

252 

258 

248 


248 

247 

249 


258 

24(1 

252 


252 


FRUIT. 

MAKING NEW STRAWBERRY PLANTA¬ 
TIONS. 

As the time of preparation for new planta¬ 
tions will noon be at hand, a few remarks 
upon the subject will not be inopportune, 
(ireat difference of opinion exists as to the 
duration i»f a Straw berry-bed, but soil and 
locality rulo this point, for whilst on some 
soils and situations a bed may keep on pro 
dining excellent fruit year after year, tin 
others it is not. worth while to retain a plan¬ 
tation after the second season : in fact, it is 
simply a waste of ground to do so. Where 
a large supply of this delicious fruit is re¬ 
quired considerable space is occupied by it; 
therefore, it is desirable that a full crop 
should be obtained from every plant. The 
earliest and best fruits are always had from 
young plantations—that is. those which were 
planted the previous autumn, and never re¬ 
lain a quarter after the 6econd year. The 
Strawberry thus folLows in rotation other 
crops in the kitchen garden. Generally the 
new bed follows earlv Peas, and Broccoli suc¬ 
ceeds the old one, which is destroyed as soon 
as the fruit is gathered. This is considered 
a wasteful practice by some, but I do not 
find it so ; on the contrary, when I have re¬ 
tained a bed beyond the second year I have 
always been sorry for it, as the new one has 
always far exceeded it, both in quantity and 
quality. But to ensure success with annual 
plantations close attention must be given to 
securing the young plants in the beet condi¬ 
tion, also to the preparation of the ground 
for their reception, so that they may be put 
out the day they are ready. 

T like to have the site'and the plants ready 
for planting out during the second week in 
August, as there is then a long season for 
them to grow and become well established 
before winter sets in. As before mentioned, 
the new plantation follows early Peas, and as 
soon as these are all gathered the ground is 
cleared and given a dressing of burnt refuse 
and manure and bastard trenched. 

The Strawberry delights in a deep soil, 
which is even more desirable than a rich 
staple, as manure can be applied to the sur¬ 
face afterwards. The aim of the cultivator 
should be to encourage a firm, hardy growth 
of both roots and leaves, and well-ripened 
crowns, such as will withstand frost and snow 
with impunity. 

The layers, as soon as they can be obtained, 
are pegged into small pots (3-inch is the size 
1 use), and, when sufficiently rooted, and 
before they become pot-bound, they are 
severed from the parent plants, carried 
straight to the site prepared for them, and 
planted out in rows 18 inches apart, allowing 
the same distance from plant to plant in the 
rows. If the weather is dry, a good watering 
is given to each plant, ancl a little later on 
the soil is made firm by treading. 

The surface between the tows should be 
occasionally stirred wittr'ihe Dutch Hbe, at 

Digitize b. C.O glc 


the same time removing all the runners. 
When planted at the above distance apart, 
there is no room for any other crop between. 
Immediately after the first crop of fruit is 
gathered every other row is taken out, leav¬ 
ing the rows 3 feet asunder, the plants in the. 
rows remaining the same as before. Runners 
and litter are then cleared off and a dressing 
of fresh soil applied to encourage surface 
roots, mulching with manure being deferred 
until the following spring. If manure is 
given in the autumn a loo succulent growth 
often follows, which does not mature, and, 
consequently, often leads to barrenness. 
After the second season’s fruiting the plants 
are chopped off with a spade close to the 
ground, and with the mulching of litter 
thrown into heaps and burned. The site 
then, without further preparation, forms one 
of the best for Broccoli. A. 


AMERICAN GOOSEBERRY MILDEW 
(SPHAEROTHECA MORS-UVAE, BERK.). 
The Board have already issued two memor¬ 
anda on the subject of the American Goose¬ 
berry - mildew (Sphaerotheca Mors-uvae, 
Berk.), with suggestions for the prevention 
and remedy of the disease. In this leaflet 
there is given in addition such a description 
of the fungus as will aid fruit growers to re¬ 
cognise the disease should their Gooseberry 
bushes be found to be attacked. The disease 
is of a very serious character, and has ren¬ 
dered the culture of Gooseberries unprofit¬ 
able wherever it has appeared, and, in some 
cases, even impossible. This fungus is much 
more injurious to Gooseberry bushes than 
the allied English Gooseberry-mildew (Micro- 
sphaera groesulariae. Lev.), as it not only 
attacks the leaves, but also extends to the 
shoots and fruit, stunting the latter and 
rendering it unsaleable. 

Description and life - history. — The 
disease usually first appears as a delicate 
white mildew on the expanding leaf-buds, ex¬ 
tending later to the young wood and fruit. 
The mildew generally becomes visible during 
the last half of May or the first half of June, 
when it appears in the form of ‘‘glistening, 
frost-like spots” on the fruit on the lower 
part of the hush, where there is usually dense 
shade. It then spreads to the leaves and ten¬ 
der shoots. In its earlier stages it has a cob¬ 
webby appearance, w hich soon becomes white 
and powdery, owing to the development of the 
light eonidial spores. During the summer 
enormous numbers of spores are produced, 
these spores spreading the disease by being 
conveyed from infected to healthy shoots or 
adjoining bushes by wind, rain, insects, etc. 
At a later stage the patches of mildew gradu¬ 
ally change from white to a dingy brown 
colour, and become densely studded with the 
winter fruit, which appears in the form of 
very minute black dots. The spores con¬ 
tained in the winter form of fruit germinate 
the following spring, and give origin in turn 
to the white summer mildew. In this country 
the fungus appears to be mostly confined to 


the tips of the shoots, which, for a distance 
of li inches or 3 inches, present a brown and 
shrivelled appearance, somewhat similar to 
that produced by an attack of green-fly. On 
such shoots, if carefully examined, especially 
with the aid of a magnifying glass, the 
brownish patches of mildew, studded with 
black winter fruit, can bo readily seen. 

Precautions. All nurserymen and market, 
gardeners who purchase Gooseberry bushes 
or Ribes aureum (the stock upon which the 
standard Gooseberry bush is worked), 
whether from abroad or from Ireland, or even 
from other growers in Great Britain, should 
observe the following precautions: (1) Only 
to purchase from those growers or dealers who 
are prepared to offer a guarantee that, the 
plants they are selling arc of their own grow ¬ 
ing, and that no case of American Goose¬ 
berry-mildew has ever appeared in their gar¬ 
dens or in the immediate neighbourhood, 
and that the said plants have not been near 
any Gooseberry plants recently brought on 
to the seller’s premises. (2) To plant such 
Gooseberry bushes or stocks as they may buy 
or acquire from other premises than their 
own in a special part of their nursery or 
garden at some distance from other Goose¬ 
berry bushes. (3) To destroy all plants found 
to )>e affected with the mildew, and to spray 
with Bordeaux mixture all others suspected 
of being infested, with the object of destroy¬ 
ing any external mycelium or adhering spores 
that may be present. This should be carried 
out during the period when the disease is dor 
inant. (4) To keep a careful watch on all 
Gooseberry plants for any signs of mildew, 
and to report any appearance suggestive of 
the disease to the Secretary of the Board of 
Agriculture and Fisheries, 4. Whitehall 
place, London, 8.W., immediately it is de¬ 
tected. (5) To assist the Board in discover¬ 
ing any unreported eases of the disease. 

Prevention.—(1) All Gooseberry growers 
who have the least reason to suspect infec¬ 
tion are advised to spray their biLsiies with a 
solution of liver of sulphur* (crude potassium 
sulphides) at intervals of from fourteen to 
twenty days from the time the leaves open 
until the fruit is set. A solution of 1 oz. to 
three gallons of water is recommended for 
the first spraying, and the strength should be 
increased to a solution of 1 oz. to two gallons 
of water at the second spraying. In some 
climates it has been found that spraying with 
l oz. to two gallons of water has injured the 
leaves of the Gooseberry. Growers should, 
therefore, carefully note the effects of the 
first spraying, and if the leaves appear to 
have suffered any injury from the weak solu¬ 
tion, the stronger solution should not bn 
used. On the other hand, if a spray of 1 oz. 
to two gallons does no harm, the grower may 
resort to somewhat stronger spray fluids. 
(2) During the winter months, before the leaf- 
Duds begin to swell, the bushes should be 
thoroughly sprayed with a solution consisting 
of 1 lb. of bluestone (copper sulphate) and 

* Known to pharmaceutical chemists as Potaasa mil- 

ph “tfNIVERSlTY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 























2-48 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Joi.t 13, 1907 


1 lb. of soft soap, dissolved in twenty-five 
gallons of water. If Bordeaux mixture has 
been prepared for other purposes, it may be 
used instead of the copper sulphate solution. 
The latter should not be used after the buds 
begin to swell, or the leaves will lx? destroyed. 
Bordeaux mixture may be used until the fruit 
is set. It must be understood, however, that 
the liver of sulphur, copper sulphate, and 
Bordeaux sprays, are recommended ns pre¬ 
ventives, to be employed in anticipation of 
attack, and that they cannot lx? relied upon 
to produce a cure. 

Treatment of infected bushes.— Should 
any suspicious symptoms be discovered on the 
plants, in spite of the precautions already 
mentioned, the case should at once be re¬ 
ported to the Board. A few slips of bushes 
showing the disease in its most marked form 
should be cut off and sent carefully packed in 
a strong wooden or metal box (not a card¬ 
board box), with the report, to the Board. 
The postage on letters and packages sent by 
letter post need not be prepaid. All other 
suspected shoots should t>e cut off and de¬ 
stroyed at once. Care should be taken to 
see that the light conidial spores found on 
infected bushes during the summer months 
are not distributed by the wind to other 
plants, and the knife or shears used in cut¬ 
ting off the slips should be disinfected im¬ 
mediately afterwards by dipping in the spray 
fluid. The Board will inform the correspon¬ 
dent as soon as possible if the plants arc 
affected with the American Gooseberry-mil- 
dew, and, if so, he should take immediate 
steps to prevent the disease spreading. The 
best means to be adopted will vary in differ¬ 
ent cases. The following suggestions are 
made for the guidance of growers, who must 
remember that during the summer months 
the spores which spread the infection are very 
readily carried from plant- to plant. They 
should, therefore, aim (1) at getting rid of 
the infected material as soon as possible; (2) 
at destroying alL leaves, buds, and fruit to 
which it is at all probable that infection has 
spread. In dealing with small bushes, the 
best plan would lx? to prune off the branches 
one by one, to drop them into a pail, and 
then to destroy them by fire or by steeping in 
a cask containing a solution of 4 oz. of 
copper sulphate or 2 oz. of liver of sulphur 
to the gallon of water. In the case of large 
bushes, it would usually be best to prune off 
all the young shoots and then to destroy the 
leaves on the lower part of the bush by em¬ 
ploying a spray containing 8 oz. of blue-stone 
to the gallon of water. It would not lx? safe 
to attempt to cut down or dig out affected 
bushes during the summer, for in doing so 
workmen would, probably, spread the disease. 
Having deposed of all diseased material, and 
of the leaves, buds and fruit on all plants to 
which infection may have spread, the grower 
should next spray the whole plantation with 
a solution of 1 oz. of liver of sulphur to 
two gallons of water. He should repeat the 
spraying within a week, and continue it at 
intervals of ten days throughout the rest of 
the season. Spraying should be done on a 
dry day ; if rain should fall soon after spray¬ 
ing, and the liver of sulphur is washed off, 
the bushes should be sprayed again as soon 
h.s they are dry. If the disease is discovered 
on young wood during the winter months, 
the safest plan would be to remove and de¬ 
stroy the affected bushes at once. 

American Gooseberry-mildew has attacked 
Red Currants in Ireland and some other 
countries, and there 16 reason to believe that 
it may also attack Black Currants and Rasp 
berries; these plants should, therefore, lx? 
kept under observation by fruit growers. - 
Leaflet (No. 19!>) of the Board of Agriculture 
and Fisheries. 


Strawberry Clvon b Prolific.— A variety 
which is much sought after, because of its 
lateness, good flavour, and deep colour, is 
the above. In addition to these sterling 
qualities, there is a neatness of habit found 
iu but few of our Strawberries. The Royal 
Horticultural Society recognised the merits 
of this variety by awarding it the coveted 
F.C.C., a distinction not given many soft 
fruits. 1 recently saw an unusually vigorous 
lied of this kind, and not only were the plants 
strong iu growth, buUJJju freedopi of fruiting 

Digitized by (jO' ’QIC 


was almost phenomenal. This was in heavy, 
clayey land, well enriched with horse-manure. 
On a lighter soil it is much less disposed 
to freedom of growth, though the plants 
lx?ar well late in the season. Under a north 
wall I gathered good fruit late in July in 
such a tropical summer as that of 1906, when, 
as might be expected, Royal Sovereign and 
sorts of kindred season were alL over. Only 
Latest of All comes as late as Givon’s, and 
this variety is not so popular, because it so 
often fails to colour to the tips of the berries, 
and, moreover, the constitution of the plant 
is far from robust. Givon’s Prolific does not 
usually produce berries of large size, as will 
Latest of All, but the fruits are of a good 
average size, when the soil suits it, and the 
weather is suitable. I am convinced it is a 
splendid Strawberry for heavy land in par¬ 
ticular, and good also for soils medium in 
texture.—W. S. 

A NEW STRAWBERRY—KENTISH 
FAVOURITE. 

Since Royal Sovereign has been so univer¬ 
sally grown, both by market and private 
growers, there would seem to have been a 
lull in the flood of novelties which at one time 
was so noticeable. A new Strawberry that 
seems destined to lx? widely planted this year, 
in order to prove its qualities universally, is 
known as Kentish Favourite. It is grown 
as yet only by the few, its price being high. 
It comes several days earlier than Royal 
Sovereign, and, by some, is claimed to possess 
a superior flavour—both facts that have a 
value in the private garden as well as in the 
market garden. I am only able to judge from 
pot-grown plants, which would seem to indi¬ 
cate a neater habit of growth and shorter 
flower trusses than Royal Sovereign has. 
This length of flower truss is distinctly a 
fault in Royal Sovereign, so much space being 
necessary between the rows of plants to en¬ 
sure the gathering being conducted conveni¬ 
ently. If the new-comer proves to be neater 
in its leaf and fruit trusts, then there will 
certainly be some gain. In size of berry, 
trials have proved that, there is no loss in 
comparison with Royal Sovereign ; one in¬ 
stance is recorded of individual berries rang¬ 
ing from 2\ oz. to 3 oz. each. I have never 
been witness to the gathering of 3-oz. Straw¬ 
berries of any kind, old or new. A variety 
that approached this weight more than any 
other known to me was Auguste Nicaise, a 
Strawberry one seldom hears of nowadays. 
It was, however, a noble berry in every way, 
though better adapted to pot culture than 
open bods. Royal Sovereign has ousted it 
from the forcing-house and also from the 
garden. Wilts. 


NOTES AND liEPLIES. 

Cherries failing. I enclose a bunch of Cherries. 
Can you tell me what to do tn save the crop next 
year? Last year and this one the fruit reached this 
stage m*d withered. The tree has a large crop, but 
they are all lost. The tree alongside has a big crop, 
which promises to ripen.—C onstantine. 

[We suspect the loss of crop on your 
Morello Cherry-tree may be attributed to a 
disease known a/* brown rot (Sclerotinia 
fructigcna), which attacks and kills the 
fruiting spurs and young shoots of several 
kinds of fruit-trees, the Cherry included. 
Your best plan will be to carefully cut off 
every affected bunch of fruit, including the 
portion of wood whereby the latter are at 
tached to the branches, also every portion of 
young wood you may find to he dead or dying, 
and burn it. Then, in the winter, spray 
twice with caustic alkali solution, the second 
application to he given just before the buds 
break into growth. After the burls break, 
and a dav or so before the flower buds open, 
spray with Bordeaux mixture, and watch re¬ 
sults. If your 6oil is deficient of lime, you 
may dress the surface of the border in which 
the tree is planted with freshly-slaked lime, 
applying sufficient to well whiten the soil, 
and lightly fork it in. A good dressing of 
lime rubbish—old mortar- spread on the sur¬ 
face and forked in may be given in lieu of 
the lime, and bone meal may also lx? em¬ 
ployed with beneficial results.] 

Mildew on Peaches 1 send a small box with a 
few Peaches, which have white spots on them. The 
tree, in u cool case, south exposure, is six years 
planted, and has been strong-growing and healthy. 


It has a very heavy crop set at present. I can afford 
to take off nearly all the spotted fruits. I would like 
if you could give me reason for this spotting.— 
SHr.lLHILL, Ayr. 

[The white spots on the fruits sent are the 
Peach mildew (Oidium erysiphoides), and if 
you examine the foliage, that is, no doubt, 
infested with it also. This fungoid disease 
is very rife this season, the cold, damp 
weather experienced for some time past being 
extremely favourable to its production. The 
absence of sun and warmth, which results in 
the internal atmosphere of a cold house or 
case becoming stagnant, in addition to its 
being damp and cold, is just the condition 
not only to produce, but also to enable the 
fungus or mildew, after it once puts in an 
appearance, to spread with great rapidity. 
This fungus has its origin in the soil, from 
whence it is communicated to the tree by 
draughts of air, and once it obtains a footing, 
it is a troublesome thing to subdue. If caught 
at the right moment, or dealt with when the 
first few spots appear, it can speedily be 
cured by an application of flowers of sulphur. 
This is really the best antidote for mildew on 
trees carrying a crop of fruit, and we there¬ 
fore advise you, after removing as many of 
the tainted fruits as you possibly can, to 
damp the tree with a syringe, and then apply 
the sulphur to every leaf or fruit you find 
affected with the disease. Allow it to remain 
on for twenty-four hours, then wash it off, 
and. if the mildew is not killed, repeat the 
application. The sulphur is easily applied 
with a dredger, and although undesirable to 
apply more of it than can be helped to the 
fruits, it can, with perseverance, be washed 
off with the aid of a garden engine between 
now and the time for the fruits to commence 
ripening. As soon as warmer weather sets 
in, admit plenty of air, and damp down no 
more than is requisite, for the drier the 
atmosphere is kept within reason, the less 
favourable will the conditions become either 
for the spread or production of the disease. 
After you have gathered the crop, syringe the 
tree thoroughly with liver of sulphur (sul 
phide of potassium) at the rate of 4 ounces 
to 10 gallons of water. First dissolve the 
chemical in one gallon of water, add a little 
soft soap, and then dilute to make 10 gallons.] 
Grapes falling to sot. -1 enclose n specimen of 
the Grapes in my cool greenhouse (the roots are. 
outside). Out of about sixty hunches only eight have 
set., the rest having gone off like the one I send. 
This is the second year it has happened. Previous to 
that the crop has been good.—C onstantine. 

[You do not say whether your greenhouse is 
heated, neither do you mention the name of 
the variety of the Vine the bunches of which 
have failed to develop. Wo think the reason 
why they failed to set is owing to the tem¬ 
perature of the house having been too low, 
which might easily be the case in such a sea 
son as the present one has been. We should 
say that last year’s failure might also be at¬ 
tributed to the same cause, as the weather in 
the first half of that year—particularly the 
spring months—was very cold and ungenial. 
When the Grape-Vine is approaching the 
flowering stage, a temperature of 60 degrees 
at night and 65 degrees by day should be 
maintained. One or two varieties will flower 
and set in a slightly lower temperature than 
this, but the majority require as much and 
some more warmth than that mentioned. Of 
course, a warm, genial spring makes a great 
difference in regard to the temperature of an 
unheated vinery, as, by a careful manipula¬ 
tion of the ventilation, a sufficiency of solar 
heat can then he secured to maintain a fair 
degree of warmth during the night. There 
has been so little sunshine, comparatively 
speaking, this season, that the aid of artificial 
warmth in such a ease as yours was an abso¬ 
lute necessity to ensure Grapes setting in a 
proper manner.] 

Diseased Apple shoots f -\f. A Da .—The shoots 
and fruiting spurs of your Apple-trees are, we fear, 
affected with “ brown rot ” (Sclerotinia fructigena), as 
wo fail to find the slightest trace of the more general 
cause of shoots and spurs dying on fruit-trees—viz., 
the pith-borer (Laverna atra). The only tiling we 
can advise you to do is to go carefully over the tree 
and cut olT every shoot and spur found affected with 
the disease, and burn them. Prune early, and then 
well spray the trees with caustic alkali wash about 
the end of November and again the end of January. 
Prior to the trees coming into bloom spray (hem 
again, by way of experiment, with Bordeaux mix¬ 
ture some morning when the weather is mild and 
calm, and you will greatly oblige by noting and re¬ 
porting in due courBe whether the disease has been 
arrested thereby. 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



Jolt 15, 1907 


Gardening illustrated. 


249 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 

DRIMYS WINTERI. 

This beautiful flowering shrub is to be found 
in numerous gardens in Devon and Cornwall. 
A large specimen, 10 feet in height and 6 feet 
in diameter, is a lovely sight when covered, 
during the month of May, with its ivory- 
white, fragrant flowers. Its habitat is given 
in gardening dictionaries as South America, 
and this lias, doubtless, led to its being con¬ 
sidered very tender. A writer in The Garden , 
about twenty years ago, fell into this error, 
stating that it was “not hardy enough for 
open air culture, except against a wall,” and 
that, “its outdoor cultivation should not be 
attempted in cold localities.” As a matter 
of fact, it is a native of the Magellan Straits, 
and is far hardier than many plants that 
are not considered particularly tender. A 
few years ago an exceptionally severe No¬ 
vember frost visited South Devon. On walk¬ 
ing round a nursery a short time later with 
the proprietor, I found that ail the shrubby 
Veronicas had been killed, as well as Ole aria 


especially when seen as huge bushes, clothed 
with hundreds of their brightly-coloured 
; flower-heads. At Tyntesfield, in Somerset¬ 
shire, I lately 6aw some immense clumps of 
j this fine Rhododendron, but, fine as these 
were, this Rhododendron is never so telling 
as in single specimens, and certainly I have 
never seen any 60 fine as are those at Bicton. 
It was computed that these immense trees, 
20 feet to 30 feet high, must be at least one 
hundred years old. During the present sea¬ 
son all trees and shrubs have flowered very 
freely, and Rhododendrons of all kinds are 
not behind in this respect. One can scarcely 
comprehend the magnificence of such speci¬ 
mens as are the Bicton ones without having 
seen them in spring. Though there were 
many other Rhododendrons in bloom, none 
so impressed me as this, the wealth of scarlet 
flower-heads leaving a long, lasting impres¬ 
sion on the mind.— wilts. 


SOME GOOD VIBURNUMS. 

V. tomentosum, a Japanese species, growing 
from 6 feet to 8 feet, with somewhat rugose 
leaves, has very showy, large, flat flower 



Winter’s Bark (Drimys Winteri). From a photograph in a Surrey garden. 


stellulata, but Drimys Winteri, which had 
been totally unprotected, had not a leaf in¬ 
jured. I had, up to that time, shared the 
popular belief that it was very tender, and 
only later found that its real home was the 
Magellan Straits, where the climate is by no 
means tropical. During the past severe win¬ 
ter, when 60 many tender shrubs were 
killed in Cornwall, Drimys Winteri was 
uninjured. The broadlv-lanceolate leaves are 
pale green above and glaucous beneath. The 
shrub is a rapid grower, and soon furnishes 
into a good specimen. It is from this plant 
that the stimulating, aromatic tonic, known 
as Winter’s Bark, was extracted. This, in 
great request in the old days, but now 
rarely heard of, was first brought to England 
by Captain Winter, in 1579, he hav¬ 
ing accompanied Sir Francis Drake to the 
Straits of Magellan. Another fairly com¬ 
mon species in gardens is Drimys aromatica, 
from Tasmania, but, as a flowering shrub, it 
is far inferior to D. Winteri. 

S. W. Fitzherbert. 


Rhododendron 

drons are always 


arboreum.* 

wclctfbfcJ m-A?as ivJapmtg, 


| clusters with prominent sterile flowers sur 
rounding the cymes, and comes into bloom 
the first week in June. This is one of tl 
choicest and most decorative of garden shrubs. 

I In some parts of the country this handsome 
shrub fruits freely, and is very ornnmental in 
i August and September, but with us so far it 
fruits very sparingly. 

V. plicatum (the Japanese Snowball), with 
deeply plicated leaves and handsome clusters 
of sterile flowers, is a form of V. tomentosum, 
and is usually in full bloom when the 
American Snowball begins to fade. There is 
a round-leaved eub-variety of the Japanese 
| Snowball which flowers from a week to ten 
days later. The Japanese Snowballs in our 
experience are a little difficult to establish, 
and require a little patience. 

V. prunifolium, a beautiful native species, 
sometimes assuming the proportions of a 
single stemmed shrub or small tree, bears 
snowy flat flower clusters about the end of 
May. The prominent clusters of bluish-black 
berries are very attractive in August and Sep- 
tember. 

V. cabsinotdes, another beautiful native 
species, from 10 feet to 15 feet high, usually 


found growing in damp or wet low ground, but 
very serviceable in ordinary garden soil, bears 
showy flat flower clusters about the middle of 
June. The fruit of this shrub is very inter¬ 
esting. The berries, on ripening, turn to 
various pinkieh shades in August, and then 
to a deep blue in September, various shades of 
pink and blue being often found on the same 
bunch. The foliage assumes very brilliant 
tints in the fall. 

V. pubescens is one of the best of the low 
growing Viburnums. Ils native range is 
somewhat restricted, and there are many 
parts of the north-eastern States where it 
cannot be found in a wild state. It is a com¬ 
mon inhabitant of the steep rocky banks of 
the Genesee River at Rochester, N.Y. In 
cultivation it makes a globular-shaped, neat 
bush 5 feet to 6 feet high, and bears nume¬ 
rous showy, white, flattish flower clusters early 
in June. From the end of July until the 
beginning of October the bushes display nume¬ 
rous bunches of bluish-black berries. 

V. venosum, a handsome native 6hrub, lias 
been handicapped by numerous synonyms. 
When I first met with this shrub in cultiva¬ 
tion, some sixteen years ago, it was under the 
name of V. nepalense, a name entirely erro¬ 
neous, because there is an Asiatic species 
under that name not hardy here. In looking 
it up I found it was supposed to be V. molle 
of Michaux, but lately the V. molle of Michaux 
has been found to be a southern species, I 
believe not found further north than Ken¬ 
tucky, and V. venosum of Britton, a form 
similar to it, but a distinct species growing 
much further north. However, it is a very 
accommodating handsome shrub for parks and 
gardens, growing from 6 feet to 8 feet high, 
and flowering about the middle of June. The 
bluish-black berries are showy in September, 
but for some reason it hardly ever fruits with 
us. 

V. Sieboldi, from Japan, grows from 
10 feet to 15 feet high, and has large, hand¬ 
some, deep green leaves. If the leaves are 
bruised or crushed in the hand the odour is 
anything but agreeable, but otherwise it is 
hardly perceptible. The large flat flower 
clusters appear about June 1st. In August 
the fruit clusters assume the richest deep 
crimson colour, and are very conspicuous and 
ornamental. In September they turn black, 
and soon drop. 

V. dentatum is another ornamental native 
species we must not overlook. It forms a neat, 
dense bush 6 feet to 10 feet high, depending 
on situation, and bears a partial resemblance 
to V. venosum. In V. dentatum the deep 
green leaves are quite smooth, whereas in 
V. venosum they are rough and hairy. 
V. dentatum produces its pretty, neat, 
white flower clusters about June 10th. The 
clusters of handsome, bluish black berries 
ripen in August and September, and these, 
unless eaten by birds, hang on throughout the 
autumn. 

V. dilatatum is a Japanese species, with a 
somewhat broad branching habit, and mark¬ 
edly hairy twigs, usually growing from 5 feet 
to 7 feet high. The flat flower clusters usually 
appear about June 10th. The stiff, erect 
clusters of smallish glowing red fruits ripen 
about September 1st, and remain until early 
winter. 

V. Wrighti, another Japanese species, has 
a slight resemblance to the last, but does not 
grow quite so dense ; it flowers about May 
25th. The red fruit clusters ripen in Sep¬ 
tember, and are very showy. 

V. Sargenti, introduced not many years 
6ince from China, bears, at first sight, a 
strong resemblance to V. Opulus in its foliage 
and flowers, but the latter are more showy 
than those of V. Opulus. It fruits with us 
very sparingly, but the fruit bears no com¬ 
parison to that of V. Opulus, either in beauty 
or persistency. 

V. acertfolium, a common native under¬ 
shrub in rich woods, grows from 4 feet to 
5 feet high, and bears white, flat flower 
clusters early in June. The large, black fruit 
is interesting in the fall, when the foliage 
assumes brilliant tints. This is an excellent 
shrub to use for undergrowth. 

V. alnifqlium is a common spreading 
underfillrnb -ef many moist or damp American 
woods. U'fie handsome, large, flat flower 










250 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


July 13 , 1907 


clusters open about May 1st, and the dark pur¬ 
ple fruit, occasionally tinged with red, is at¬ 
tractive in late summer and early autumn. The 
foliage colours magnificently in the autumn. It 
is a very difficult shrub to cultivate outside of 
the shade of moist woods, where there is 
plenty of humus. It is one of the shrubs we 
would strongly recommend for planting in 
those places for which it shows such a strong 
preference. John Dunbar, in American 
Gardening. 


THE CULTIVATION OF OSIERS. 
The most important points in the cultivation 
of Osiers are the selection of suitable soils 
and situations, the preparation of the ground 
for planting, the selection of suitable species 
of Osier, and the proper planting and culti¬ 
vation of the crop. In addition to these 
points, the chances oT profit further depend 
upon the careful sorting and preparation 
or the crop for market, for unless this be 
attended to, the sale of the rods is a difficult, 
and often an impossible, undertaking. 

Soils and situations.— The most suitable 
spots for Osier-growing are those deep allu¬ 
vial deposits found along most sluggish rivers, 
and which, owing to frequent flooding, can¬ 
not be turned to account in ordinary farm 
practice. In such situations the growth of 
the rods when once established is vigorous 
and healthy, and the fertility of the soil is 
maintained by fresh deposits of mud remain¬ 
ing after each floooding. Low lying, swampy 
ground is also suitable if properly drained, 
but stagnant moisture is more difficult to 
remove out of the reach of the roots. Osiers 
can also be grown in most soils of fair depth 
and fertility. Unless, however, such soils 
are naturally moist, the crop is apt to suffer 
in dry seasons. On peat hogs the quality of 
the rods is supposed to lack toughness, and 
applications of lime and other fertilisers are 
needed to keep the beds healthy. 

Preparation of the ground.—I n some 
cases Osiers are planted without any pre¬ 
paration beyond that of cutting a few drains 
where necessary, and then inserting long, 
unprepared cuttings into the ground by 
means of a bur or iron rod. Where tree Wil¬ 
lows alone are wanted, or where Osiers are 
simply grown for home use, this method may 
answer on soft, swampy ground, as the cut¬ 
tings, when once rooted, gradually recover 
their strength, and a certain number develop 
into trees. But when Osiers are grown os 
a commercial crop, the ground should always 
be thoroughly prepared beforehand, by 
draining where necessary, and digging or 
trenching the ground to a depth of at least 
18 inches to 124 inches. Draining should con¬ 
sist in cutting straight open drains from 
the lowest part of the ground, giving them a 
depth of from 2 feet to .3 feet, and making 
them not further apart than five yards in 
very wet, or ten yards in moderately wet. 
ground. Where the soil is water logged 
throughout the greater part of the year, it 
must be thrown up into ridges sufficiently 
high to raise the surface at least 2 feet above 
the water level during the summer mouths, 
or during ordinary periods of dry weather in 
spring or autumn. The digging or trench¬ 
ing of tlie ground must be decided by the 
nature of the soil. Where this is hard, and 
more or less impervious to moisture, a foot 
or so below the surface, trenching to a depth 
of at least 2 feet is necessary, so that the 
roots may have no difficulty in pushing their 
way readily through the soil. Where it is 
naturally of a soft, porous nature, such ns is 
usually found along the banks of rivers, or 
peaty ground with a damp subsoil, deep 
trenching may be unnecessary, but the 
ground should he well and deeply dug, and 
all weeds and surface growth cleared off or 
buried as deeply as possible. If a crop of 
Potatoes can be taken off the ground before 
the Osiers are planted, the cleaning and cul¬ 
tivation of the soil are facilitated, but on 
land subject to summer flooding this can 
seldom be done. Previous to digging or 
trenching, the ground should l»e levelled if 
the surface is at all uneven, or the growth of 
the rods will l>e irregular and the value of 
the crop reduced. 

Selection of species. —Three fairlv dis¬ 
tinct types of Willows are grown in ordinary 
Osier beds, and eaph^pf these typ|s contains 
a number of .yartiIies/ljnni ' 


Mi are 


found in one district and some in another. 
The three types may be enumerated as the 
Common Osier (Salix viminalis), known by 
basket-makers as “Long Skins;” the French 
or Almond Willow (Salix triandra), known 
as “Spaniards,” “black mauls,” etc.; and 
the Bitter Willow (Salix purpurea), known 
as “Black Tops.” Of these, the strongest 
grower and heaviest cropper is the Common 
Osier, which may be distinguished by its 
long unbranched rode, more or less polished, 
green below and brown and downy above, 
with long, flattened buds pressed closely 
against the stem. The leaves are long, nar¬ 
row, and pointed, of a dark, dull green above 
and white and silky below, with thin edges 
curled downwards. This Osier is well 
adapted for damp, low-lying soils, and pro¬ 
duces strong rods, suitable for crate and 
hamper work, arid for forming the frame¬ 
work of lighter articles. It yields a heavier 
crop than the other two types, and is the 
most profitable to the average grower. 

The French or Almond Willow has polished 
rode of a dark purplish colour, with promi¬ 
nent. buds of an orange tint. The leaves are 
smooth, comparatively short, and gradually 
widened from the base until near the point, 
where they narrow down sharply to the apex. 
This Osier is used largely in ordinary bas¬ 
ket-making. and the rods are tougher than 
those of the Common Osier. This variety 
succeeds tiest. on soils of a loamy nature. 

The Bitter Willow is only grown for the 
finer classes of basket work, and, unlike the 
majority of Willows, is best suited for light 
sandy soil, and is seldom grown in wet situa¬ 
tions. The leaves are smooth, with a bluish 
tint, and often occur in pairs on the twigs, 
which are of a bright purple colour, long, 
slender, and unbranched. For binding to¬ 
gether drifting sand, or the shifting banks of 
sand which often occur on the banks or in 
the beds of rivers, this Osier will be found 
of service. For all-round purposes it is not 
so suitable ns the other species, but is sel¬ 
dom touched by rabbits, and, where these 
are numerous, it may he found useful. 

Planting and cultivation.— The pre¬ 
paration and planting of Osier sets or cut¬ 
tings are comparatively simple operations. 
The cuttings should be obtained as full-length 
rods from some Osier-bed where the required 
varieties are grown, and they must be out 
before the beginning of March. The rods 
should be cut by means of a sharp pocket- 
knife into lengths of 12 inches to 15 inches, 
in such a way that an eye or bud is left at 
each end. The tops of iho rods should not 
he used, as they usually carry a large num¬ 
ber of flower-buds which will not develop 
into shoots. The rods should not be allowed 
to become dry before the cuttings are made, 
nor should they be out in frosty weather. 
When made, the cuttings should he tied up 
in small bundles, with the tops all pointing 
in the same direction. If not planted at 
once, they should be partially buried, or laid 
in the ground until required. Planting 
should be done in February or March by set¬ 
ting out the ground in lines about 2 feet 
apart. Cuttings of the stronger varieties 
may be put in 2 feet apart, and the less 
vigorous kinds 1 foot apart. The cuttings 
should be planted with a dibber, and 
placed entirely in the ground with the 
exception of about 2 inches at the 
top, care being taken that the bottom end is 
placed in the ground and that the soil is 
firmly trodden round the base of the cutting. 

Subsequent treatment. —The manage¬ 
ment of an Osier-bed after planting may be 
briefly summed up in the words, “Keep 
clean.” In the first year this cannot be done 
too carefully, and the ground should be hoed 
between the rows twice or three times during 
the summer when the weather is drv. In the 
second year the crop should he thick and 
dense enough to keep down weeds without 
much assistance. After each cutting the 
ground should be stirred up and cleaned with 
a light horse lux* if possible, os hand labour 
is expensive, and cannot always be spared 
for the work. 

Under ordinary circumstances Osiers are 
out annually, but where exceptionally strong 
rods are required, tliev may be allowed to 
grow for two years. Cutting should always 
be done between October and the beginning j 
of March, and this work is best, carried out ' 


by using a strong, sharp clasp-knife, cutting 
each rod in an upward direction from below” 
and as close to the ground as possible. Care¬ 
less cutting will quickly bring the beds into 
an unsatisfactory condition. Gaps in the 
rows should also be filled up as they occur 
from time to time, and long uncut rods of 
the same species used for this work. Weak 
or sickly beds may be improved by allowing 
them to remain uncut for a year or two, or 
by the application of ground lime, basic 
slag, superphosphate, kainit, or muriate of 
potash, according to the requirements of the 
soil. 

Insect pests. —Osier-beds are sometimes 
attacked by insect pests, such as the Willow- 
beetle, ami several species of gall-midge 
often deform the leading buds and dumage 
the crop. When these are noticed, stejsi 
should be taken to prevent the attack spread¬ 
ing, although in the case of the midge the 
damage is usually done before it can be de¬ 
tected. Spraying the crop with arsenical 
compounds will usually check the beetle, and 
will probably prevent damage from the midge 
if done in time—say, in June or early in 
July—but cutting olT and burning the in¬ 
fested shoots is the safest method of dealing 
with it when once the plants are affected, 
while the health and vigour of the crop 
should he stimulated by the application of 
artificial manures. Department of Agricul¬ 
ture and Technical Instruction for Ireland, 
Leaflet No. 83. 


NOTES AND HE PLIES. 
Ceanothus rigidus. -Blue flowered shrubs 
arc extremely rare in our gardens, and for 
this reason one’s attention is quickly drawn 
to a plant of Ceanothus, with its prettily- 
tinted blue panicles of flowers. The most 
commonly planted is, perhaps, C. azureufl, 
but the one above-named is more conspicu¬ 
ous, because of the erect habit of the bios 
«oms and the freedom with which they are 
produced. The Ceanothusce arc. unfortun¬ 
ately, not hardy enough for planting every¬ 
where in the open, hence a sheltering wall 
with a sunny aspect is chosen for them, ex 
es’pt on the southern and western coasts. At 
Bicton, in East Devon, I saw this shrub 
flowering in early May with marked freedom, 
and the colour was so conspicuous that it 
could be seen a long distance off, and, 
favoured by the Devonshire climate, it was 
found growing in luxuriant bush form several 
feet in height. There are many varieties of 
Ceanothus, but very few of them are grown, 
probably, on account of their tenderness. 
They are, most of them, natives of California 
and Mexico. Were they as hardv as our com¬ 
mon Laurel, then they would, undoubtedly, 
receive much more attention.—W. S. 

Libocedrus macrolepis. When coniferous 
plants were in the height of their popularity 
the advent of such an interesting species as 
this would have attracted great attention. 
Now, however, owing to conifers in general 
bL'iug at one time overdone, they are. to a 
certain extent, under a cloud at the present 
day, and the introduction of such a species 
as this is overlooked. The genus Libocedrus 
consists of about half-a-dozen species— 
namely, L. dccurrens, a Californian tree, 
quite hardy in this country, and remarkable 
from its dense columnar habit of growth ; L. 
chilensis, a very handsome species, but in 
most parts of the country liable to l>e injured 
by frosts; L. tetragona, a native of Southern 
Chili, and even more tender than that im¬ 
mediately preceding; and L. Donniana. a 
native of the north island of New Zealand, 
with beautiful rich green frond like branch- 
lets, a handsome indoor subject, but hardy 
only in very favoured districts. While the 
whole of the above are natives of the New 
World, the latest addition to the genus conies 
to us from the Chinese province of Yunnan, 
from whence seeds of it were sent by Mr. 
E. IT. Wilson, when travelling in that district 
for Messrs. Veitch. Though said to attain 
the dimensions of a fair sized tree in its 
native country, the plants of this Libocedrus 
here are at present small. They are? how¬ 
ever, in this stage, very pretty, but, ns far 
as experiments have been tried, this species 
does not appear to be thoroughly hardy, ex 
cent i_n the particularly favoured quarts of 
lle*se isles, X. 


July 13 , 190 ? 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


251 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 


INDOOR PLANTS. 

UTRICULARIA MONTANA. 

This plant, belonging to a large genua of 
nearly 150 species, was introduced into this 
country from the West Indies in 1871. It is 
commonly called a Bladder-wort, owing to its 
ovoid, stalked, hollow, green tubers. When 
well grown, the plant is very free flowering, 
and well-bloomed examples form charming i 
objects, and are always greatly admired. 1 
The flowers, which are white, with a yellow 
palate and disc to the lower Up, are produced 
on slender stems, which not only appear on 
the surface of the compost, but frequently 
protrude through the sides and bottom of the 
open Teak-wood basket in which the plant 
is grown. It is best to use shallow baskets, 
as the tubers are easily rotted, if placed in a 
thick, compressed mass of compost. For 
drainage, use a layer of rough, unchopped 
Sphagnum Moss, over this place another thin 
layer of chopped Moss, with which should 
l>e mixed some coarse silver sand and small, 
broken crocks. Lay the tubers upon this, 
and lightly cover them with the same 


, fire-heat, and the young plants may be grown j 
on in cold-frames. If a pinch of seed is sown 
in a 6 inch pot, one or two dozen plants are 
sure to come up, and these should be potted 
I singly as soon as they have formed four or 
five leaves. They delight in a rich, sandy 
' mixture at all times, and this should be given 
them from first to last. They require a little 
shade when newly potted, but after they be 
, gin to root afresh, they should be fully ex 
posed to the 6un. They should never be 
allowed to become root-bound, os this cause's 
them to bloom prematurely. Indeed, plants 
rown under any conditions generally show 
ower before they are any great size, and in 
the case of those grown for autumn decora¬ 
tion, the flowers should be pinched off as 
fast as they appear until large plants are 
formed, and in 8-inch or 10-inch pots. It may 
be September before this stage is reached, 
and then blooms may be allowed to make 
their appearance as fast as they like ; they 
will develop satisfactorily in a little heat in 
October, and will remain good for many 
weeks afterwards. Red-spider and some other 
insects often infest them, but a good syring¬ 
ing now and then will keep such pests in 
cheek, and if the plants are grown on freely, . 
and not allowed to be stunted, they will never j 
he very troublesome. The kinds generally 1 



Utricularia i non tana. From a photograph in Mr. Bennet Poii's garden at Cheshunt. 


material. When repotting established speci¬ 
mens, care should l>e taken not to disturb 
them more than is necessary, as the stalks 
and roots, being very brittle, are easily in¬ 
jured. Grow the plant in a moist, shady 
part of a house having an intermediate tem¬ 
perature the whole season through. In grow¬ 
ing the plant, the principal aim should be 
to keep the Sphagnum Moss in a fresh and 
growing condition, and, instead of dipping 
the whole basket, etc., into water, ns is 
sometimes done, a better plan is to keep the 
Moss well damped with a fine ros3 sprayer. 
Do this several times a day, when the weather 
is warm and bright, but on dull, cold days 
less will suffice. 


CELOSIAS IN AUTUMN. 
Celosias are among the showiest annuals 
anyone can grow for greenhouse or conserva¬ 
tory decoration. The seed is sown usually in 
early spring, and the plants brought into 
flower during the summer months. In my 
opinion, Celosias are more useful in the 
autumn and early winter, when flowers are 
less plentiful. Celosias may be retained in 
full beauty till near the new year, and about 
Christ mas-time their rich plumes are greatly 
valued. Seed sown now^germinates Jreely in 
any house or frame rfnws^^itho^fcrtg^iud of 


grown are the yellow and red-flowered sorts, 
and, although they vary a good deal in tint, 
the red-coloured ones are the most attractive 
late in the season. !*• 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Alonsoa incisifolia as a basket plant.— 

A short time since there was in Gardening 
Illustrated a note directing attention to the 
value of Aloneoa incisifolia when grown in 
pots for the embellishment of the greenhouse 
during the spring and summer months. I 
lately saw it in a new role—viz., treated as a 
basket plant in the greenhouse, a mode of 
culture which seemed to suit it well, for it 
was growing and flowering profusely. Under 
such conditions the slender shoots disposed 
themselves in a pleasing and informal man¬ 
ner, and the bright-coloured blossoms were 
seen to great advantage when viewed from 
below. As it flowers in such a satisfactory 
manner both indoors and outside during the 
summer months, and withal is of extremely 
easy propagation and culture, this Alonsoa 
might well be made more use of than it gener¬ 
ally is.—X. 

Greenhouse climbers.— It is generally 
agreed that climbing plants over a green¬ 
house roof make a place inviting, when such 


are kept within proper limits, and serve the 
double purpose in many instances of adding 
beauty and providing shade for the occupants 
of the stages below. But there are certain 
periods when a roof covered with creepers 
becomes a bane, and, as in May and June, 
when we had so much dull and wet weather 
to contend with, such houses were at a dis¬ 
advantage. This shows the necessity of keep 
ing down certain vigorous-growing plants like 
Passifloras, Roses, etc., to proper limits. It 
is wise, therefore, at this date, before autumn 
sets in, to thin out all useless shoots, and re¬ 
tain only the strongest, keeping these well 
under control.— Woodbastwick. 

Achimenes A friend of mine who makes a speci¬ 
alty of these, starts the tubers at the same time as 
he does his tuberous Begonias, and gives them prac- 
ticnlly the same treatment, with satisfactory re¬ 
sults. Achimenes may be grown either in pans or 
baskets; but perhaps it is when grown in baskets 
that their flowers are seen to the best advantage 
hanging from the roof of the house. They should 
be planted in rotted turf soil with Icaf-inould and 
sand,and they are best served where they can be kept 
in a somewhat moist atmosphere. Shading is essen¬ 
tial for them in hot weather, otherwise they soon 
show a fulling off.—F. W. D. 

Grafting Azaleas (Dove).—We have seen large 
plants of inferior varieties grafted nil over with 
choice sorts and placed in a temperature of 65 degs. 

| to 70 degs. at night, with the result that large speci- 
! mens were formed in one season. March is a good 
month in which to graft Azaleas. When the plants 
are ready for grafting they should be placed in a 
close, rather moist atmosphere. There is no need to 
cut the plants down until you see that the grafts 
have got a good hold and ure growing freely. The 
grafts ought to be neatly spliced on to the various 
shoots, and should be firmly tied, covering the lied 
portion well over with grafting wax. The perfect 
success of the operation depends on a high tempera¬ 
ture and a moist, atmosphere. The grafted plants 
must be shaded when t he sun comes out very bright. 
We are assuming that the variety you mention is an 
indira variety of Azalea. 


FERNS. 

FERNS IN THE HOUSE. 

Instead of confining themselves to the cul¬ 
ture of the Maiden hair Fern, as many win¬ 
dow gardeners do, it would be better if they 
took in hand some of those kinds that, with 
less care, will yield greater satisfaction. The 
Maiden hair is a beautiful Fern, and, owing 
to its graceful, but compact, habit, is a model 
window plant, but it requires very careful 
management and conditions to maintain it in 
health and vigour, which cannot always be 
obtained in the house. Specimens of this 
Fern that come into the hands of window 
gardeners generally .are grown by specialists, 
who can give them every favourable condi¬ 
tion. During the first year they retain their 
health, but seldom make good growth after¬ 
wards. Keeping a plant in good condition 
is tolerably easy, but inducing a free growth 
annually is another thing, and can only lje 
accomplished when the plant is endowed with 
a strong vitality. Should the window gar¬ 
dener be possessed of a frame, the matter is 
easy enough, as it can be used as a hospital 
in which the plants can be treated with re- 
i gard to their special needs during the earlier 
I portion of the summer months. If removed 
from the house in May, they can be repotted, 
and, if stood on an ash bottom and shaded, 
j they will do quite as well as if cultivated in 
a greenhouse. In fact, they are likely to do 
better, as an ordinary greenhouse contain- 
j ing a mixed collection of plants, such as 
I amateurs generally delight in, is too airy for 
I Ferns, which much dislike currents of air. 
A rather moist, quiet atmosphere is what 
they delight in, with protection from the 
direct force of the sun. Maiden-hair Ferns 
are only evergreen when the temperature is 
sufficiently high to induce the formation and 
growth of new fronds throughout the dull 
months. In a living room or cool greenhouse 
the fronds turn brown towards the close of 
I the year, 60 that there is nothing to induce 
| root action at the commencement of the grow¬ 
ing time. Under perfectly cool treatment 
the young growths do not show the green 
until May, so that from the beginning of the 
year until that time watering has to be con¬ 
ducted with very great care. The soil must, 
not be allowed to become dust-dry, or the 
fine hair-like roots will shrivel ; at the same 
time, excess of moisture will induce decay. 

, The soil should lx? allowed to become nearly 
dry, and only just enough water given to 
' moisten ~U without making it downright wet. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 










252 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Jolt 13, 1907 


Repotting must never be done when the 
plants are in a complete state of rest, but just 
as the young fronds are pushing from the 
crowns. In this stage they may be divided, 
and will go away freely, whereas if repotted 
or divided when at rest, are liable to remain 
half the summer before starting into growth. 
Amateurs often make the mistake of repot¬ 
ting before needed, and of shifting into pots 
so large that the roots cannot gain full pos¬ 
session of the new compost by the time root 
activity and top-growth cease. It is char¬ 
acteristic of Ferns that they only make free 
growth when the roots begin to travel freely 
round the sides of the pots, therefore the 
shift should never be a large one, and care 
should be taken to see that repotting is really 
needful. This can readily be ascertained by 
turning the plant out of the pot. If the out¬ 
side of the soil is covered with active fibres, 
it is time to repot. Nothing is ever gained 
by repotting, unless the old compost is well 
filled with roots in an active condition. It is 
better to allow the plant to remain in the 
same soil, watering carefully, and feeding, 
when in full growth, with soot-water or some 
liquid stimulant in a weak state. Ferns may 
he kept a couple of years in the same pots, 
and will make good growth if they get plenty 
of water and some food. 

One of the best Ferns for room culture is 
Pterie cretiea. It is free of growth, and 
keeps its foliage well all through the winter, 
the deep green fronds being very attractive. 
A friend had a plant of this in a room last 
winter, where a nre was frequently made, and 
when spring came round it was "os good in 
colour as at the commencement of the win¬ 
ter. Like strong habited things generally, it 
can be maintained in good condition for 
several years without change of soil, pro¬ 
vided it gets some food and plenty of water 
during the growing period. Cyrtomium 
falcatum is possessed of exceptional endur¬ 
ance, and it bears some resemblance to the 
English Holly Fern (Polystichum Lonchitis), 
but is much more vigorous in its highest state 
of development, making fronds 18 inches in 
length. In its young stage of growth, in 
4Finch and 6-inch pots, it is admirably 
adapted for window culture. Owing to the 
exceptional substance and hardiness of the 
fronds it can be kept in good health in a 
living room throughout the winter, in this 
respect being about on a level with the well- 
known Aspidistra, or Parlour Palm, as it is 
commonly called. Asplenium bulbiferum is 
a complete contrast to the foregoing, having 
much-divided, rather pale green fronds, but 
it ia also remarkably enduring. Onychium 
japonicum, now not much grown, is an ele¬ 
gant Fern of dwarf habit with finely divided 
fronds. It comes from Japan, and is nearly 
hardy in this country. The same can be 6aid 
of the Cyrtomiums, both Ferns being, there¬ 
fore, exceptionally adapted for culture in 
rooms where the temperature generally is low 
during the winter months. In its higher 
state of development the Cyrtomium is one of 
the very best things that can be employed for 
the decoration of entrance halls, corridors, 
and other places where frost may penetrate 
and draughts prevail. It is a fit companion 
for such things ns Chanuerops Fortunei, 
Aralia Sieboldi, and Dracama rubra, which 
bear fluctuations of temperature better than 
most things. Pteris ecaberula is neat of 
habit and of easy culture. P. arguta is one 
of the most free-growing Ferns in cultivation, 
and the same may lx* said of Nephrodium 
molle. The Stag’s horn Fern (Platycerium 
aleicorne) is the very best I am acquainted 
with for growing in a constantly heated 
apartment. The thick, leathery fronds never 
seem to be affected by the dry atmosphere, 
keeping their rich green tint all through 
the dull months. I once had a plant of this 
for two years in a room which was con¬ 
stantly heated through the winter, and at the 
end of the time it was in perfect health, 
and had increased in size. The value of this 
Fern for room decoration has never been 
fully realised. J. Corn hill. 


Index to Volnme XXVIII.- The bimlinn covers 
(price Is. (><J. each, punt free. Is. 9tl.) and Index (.'id., 
post free, 8jd.) for Volimip XXVIII. are now ready, 
and may be had of ail /ewsaaonts, or qf llh^ Pub¬ 
lisher, iEMt free, 29. for 


CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

GROWING THREE PLANTS IN A POT. 
Trade and market growers arc never at a loss 
to know what to do with many of their late- 
struck Chrysanthemums. Trade growers al¬ 
ways propagate more plants than are required 
by their numerous clients, and, at. this season, 
rather than let them spoil in the deep “six¬ 
ties ” into which they were potted some time 
ago, they arc dealt with in a very practical 
manner. A visit to one of their nurseries a 
few days ago revealed the fact that many very 
useful and promising plants were being 
placed into their flowering pots. In most 
instances, three plants were placed in a nine- 
inch pot. The grower took the precaution to 
place plants of a size together in each pot. 
Each potful of plants represented one variety, 
still further ensuring uniformity of size. 
From past experience, I can speak highly 
as to the result of this way of dealing with 
late struck and spare Chrysanthemums. Each 
plant will develop one large and handsome 
bloom, so that there should be three good 
flowers in each potful of plants. Where a 
larger number of flowers is desired, it is a 
very simple matter to allow more buds to de¬ 
velop; and in nurseries, where a free display 
of decorative blossoms of smaller size is 
wanted, the same plants may be grown on to 
the terminal buds, and the latter be slightly 
thinned out. Treated in the last-mentioned 
fashion, beautiful sprays of blossoms may be 
gathered for indoor decoration, or the plants 
may be used for conservatory embellishment. 
In most gardens, both large and small, almost 
invariably thero are many plants left over 
after the usual final potting is completed. 
There is no reason why those surplus plants 
should not be treated in the manner de¬ 
scribed in this note, and thus obtain full ad¬ 
vantage of all the labour, time, and expense 
incurred in their development up to the pre¬ 
sent time. In the market nurseries it is quite 
a common sight to see several plants potted 
finally into one large pot. Space by these 
means is economised, and good use is made rf 
late-struck plants. Should there be readers 
who have plenty of six-inch pots available, 
one plant should be finally potted into each of 
these, and excellent results will be gained in 
this way. In all cases pot firmly, and use 
soil of good quality. C. A. H. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Old Chrysanthemums — I have some of last 
year’s Chrysanthemums still in their flowering-pots. 
Cun anything be done with these this year, as the 
cuttings I have taken are backward and not likely to 
be very successful?—SllAVIO. 

[Whether your old pot-grown plants will be 
of any service depends entirely upon their 
present condition. Assuming that the old 
stools have two or more good growths, your 
better plan will be to shake off some of the 
old soil and repot them in a mixture of loam, 
manure, and sand. If you reduce the ball 
of earth now about the old roots, and can 
put the plants into pots one or two sizes 
larger, there is no reason why a good dis¬ 
play of useful flowers should not be forth¬ 
coming. You have, of course, left the plants 
till a very late date, which is not in their 
favour. Had you taken the old stools in 
hand in February or March, and grown them 
on, .a capital lot of flowers would, with fair 
treatment, have resulted. In those instances 
where blossoms of a decorative character are 
desired, the old plants are to be preferred, 
retaining not more than three good shoots 
from the base and permitting them to grow 
unchecked. In such instances the plants 
should be liberally supplied with manure- 
water. and this will also be helpful in the pre¬ 
sent instance.’ If you can add some good 
artificial manure to the 6oil used in potting, 
it will be an advantage.] 


Lilluni candiduin diseased (C. S. and Shavin). 
—Your Madonna Lilies have been attacked by the 
disease which has proved so fatal for many years. 
When once a plant, is attacked there is but very little 
chance of being able to save it, though, by cutting 
oil the diseased portions and spraying with Bordeaux 
mixture, this is said to have been done. Lifting the 
bulbs and putting into a bag with flowers of sulphur, 
shaking them up well, so as to work the sulphur 
among the scales of the bulbs, and then planting 
while smothered with the sulphur have been recom- 
mended, but we doubt if any real cure lias yet been 
found. 


GARDEN PESTS AND FRIENDS. 


Stocks dying — I should be glad if you will tell 
me the cause or most of my Stocks dying of! like 
those I send? The outdoor Petunias are affected in 
the same way. I have pulled several up, and And a 
long, thin worm at the root. 1 have enclosed several 
in tfie box. Can I do anything to prevent the same 
thing happening next year? This is very sandy soil. 
None of the Stocks look well.-M adge. 

[Your Stocks are infested by one of the 
snake millipedes, the spotted snake millipede 
(Blanjulus guttulatus), a very destructive 
pest. A good dressing of gas-lime in the 
autumn would kill them, but you could not 
crop the ground for some months.—G. S. S.] 

Lettuces attacked by wlreworms - Would you 
kindly tell me the name of the enclosed specimens, 
which have attacked my newly-transplanted Lettuces? 
They eat into the stem of the plant just above the 
ground, and the head drops Off. I should also be 
glad to know how to destroy ants? The flower 
garden is infested with them, und they seem to be 
specially fond of Pansies and Roses.—(R ev.) K. A. 
Nelson. 

[Your Lettuces are infested with wire- 
worms, which are the grubs of certain long, 
narrow beetles of a pale brown colour, com¬ 
monly known as click, or skipjack beetles. 
They live among rough Grass, and may often 
be found on flowers particularly umbelli¬ 
ferous ones. Ordinary insecticides are of no 
use for killing the grubs. The grubs may be 
trapped by burying slices of Turnips, Man¬ 
gold Wurtzel, Carrots, or Potatoes near the 
plants they are attacking. The baits should 
bo placed just below the surface of the 
ground; a small skewer stuck into each 
makes them easier to handle, and shows 
where they are placed. These baits should lie 
examined every morning. Small pieces of 
oilcake also make good baits. To destroy the 
ants, the only way is to find out their nests 
and pour boiling water into them.—G. S. S.] 

Hellebore powder. -In your article on ” Fruit 
Crops,” p. 219, mention is made of ” dustings of 
Hellebore powder ” as u remedy for caterpillar in 
Gooseberries. Would you kindly stute when and how 
the powder should be applied, and where it may bo 
p roc u red ?— Fi v E w a v s. 

[You can get the Hellebore powder from 
any horticultural sundriesrnan. To half-a- 
pound of white Hellebore powder add about 
12 quarts of water, and then mix them well. 
Take a syringe with the jet end on, draw it 
full of the water and the powder mixed, and 
force it out into the bottom of the can ; again 
draw the syringe full while the liquid is in 
motion, and, with your finger on the end of 
the jet, thoroughly damp over every part of 
the tree affected. If the pest has made 
much headway, a second application may be 
necessary. Apply the mixture on a quiet 
night. About a week after, damp all the 
bushes with clean water should the weather 
be dry. Let them remain for half an hour 
or so to loosen ttye powder on the leaves and 
fruit, and then syringe them well, which 
will leave them quite free from both cater¬ 
pillars and powder. Some people dust it on 
from a pepper-box, doing this when the trees 
are damp, or after they have been slightly 
syringed if the weather should happen to be 
dry. Take care always to wash the powder 
off, as it is poisonous.] 

Crowths on wild Rose (Ranunculus).— 
The growths you find on the Briers are 
caused by the grubs of one of the gall-flies— 
the Rose gall-fly (Rhodites rosaa). This in¬ 
sect, as a rule, only attacks Briers. It seldom 
is the cause of any real injury to the plant, 
but we have seen wild Roses growing in un¬ 
favourable positions so covered with it that 
the plants were nearly dead. These galls 
grow at times considerably larger than your 
specimens, and have been found 3 inches in 
diameter. If you cut one open, you will 
find that it contains a number of cells, in 
each of which is cither a grub or a gall-fly, 
according to the time of year. The parent 
gall fly lays her eggs in the stems, and some¬ 
times in the stalks of the leaves. When the 
grille hatch they begin feeding on the tissues 
of the plant, this setting up a very peculiar 
growth, which assumes the form of a hall of 
Moss, the centre of which is more or loss 
woody, and contains a number of cells. These 
galls are commonly known by the name of 
“Robins’ pincushions” or “Bedeguars.” The 
gall-flies are small, four winged insects, be¬ 
longing to the same family os those which 
form the different kinds of galls on the Oaks. 


July 13, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


253 


ROSES. 

ROSE VISCOUNTESS FOLKESTONE. 
This is an ideal garden Rose, free in growth, 
profuse and showy in bloom. The splendid 
Howere are very often produced as large as 
Tree-Paeon ies, and are of a beautiful creamy- 
pink colour, merging to salmon-pink. Its 
fragrance is very refreshing. Such ex¬ 
quisitely informal Roses as Viscountess 
Folkestone, combined with a delightful per¬ 


does not require very close pruning. Keep 
the centre of the plants well open, but do not 
shorten growths much. When well estab¬ 
lished, some of the thick wood may be slightly 
bent to the ground, in order that dormant 
buds may start out from the base of the 
plant, and thus considerably renew its youth. 


ROSE LADY SARAH WILSON. 

This charming hybrid from Rosa macrantha 
should be a favourite with lovers of semi¬ 



Rose Viscountess Folkestone. 


fume, come as near perfection as one can 
desire. Of course, where space is limited, 
one must content oneself with a single plant 
of a variety, but where possible, all Roses 
should be in groups. If only three plants 
can be accommodated, place them in a small 
bed by themselves, or, at least, in some form 
other than a straight row. Give plenty of 
space for Roses to develop. In the case of 
Viscountess Folkestone, 2 feet apart each way 
is quite close enough, and 
6 inches would not lie toi 
This variety, like many 


iyU^iecessary, 2-feefc 


double and single-flowered Roses. Its colour 
is quite a pale flesh-pink, with a rich array of 
golden anthers, which makes the flower a 
most attractive one. It possesses two rows 
of petals, and there are usually one or two 
petals in centre among the anthers. When 
this Rose is partly pegged down, so that it 
may flower well all over the growths, it is 
very beautiful. Many of the single Teas and 
Hybrid Tens aTe lovely, but they are spoilt 
by the first shower we get, whereas mac 
rantha, Lady Sarah Wilson, and others of 
this type appear to enjoy a shower bath. 


Probably no lovelier eight can be witnessed 
than Roses of the above character just after 
a shower I have been much pleased with 
Morgenroth this year. I thought last year 
it was too near Carmine Pillar, but the 
flowers on one-year plants appear to lie much 
finer, and it is rather more useful, in some 
respects, for Carmine Pillar does not blossom 
the first year. Rosa. 


ROSE CRIMSON RAMBLER FROM 
CUTTINGS. 

1 SEE in your paper that Crimson Rambler and Mme. 
Levavasseur strike easily from cuttings. vVhen is tlie 
time to take them, and from what wood—the old or 
new? Any hints will be thankfully received.—I lex. 

[Roses may be struck very easily during 
the month of July if a frame is available to 
put them into. The next best plan is to 
put in the cuttings in the open ground in 
October. We will briefly describe both 
plans. In July a shallow frame is placed 
in a sunny position, and the soil excavated to 
a depth of 12 inches. In the bottom put 
0 inches of fresh stable manure, or, rather, 
some that has been turned over once, and 
which contains a little heat. Tread this 
firmly, and on to it put 2 inches cf loam, and 
on to the loam about 2 inches of silver-6and 
or washed river sand. Press firmly, and 
give a good watering. Now take the cuttings 
from growths of this year’s production, and 
which are approaching a stiffness such as we 
obtain when a growth is about to blossom. 
Cut up into lengths of two and three eyes, 
and retain a leaf to the top eye of each cut¬ 
ting. Make the base of cutting quite level 
just below the second or third eye. Then 
dibble the cuttings into the sand to about 
half their length. Give a good watering 
when several rows of cuttings have been in¬ 
serted, and place the light on the frame. The 
glass should be painted with whitewash in 
which a little flour is mixed, and this is best 
done on the inside. The cuttings should be 
sprinkled every hour from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m., 
if sun is bright. This should be carrieu out 
for the first fortnight. As soon as the cut¬ 
tings commence to grow', a chink of air 
should be given, increasing this until finally 
the lights may be left off. In about five 
weeks the cuttings may be potted off and 
placed in a greenhouse, or allowed to remain 
where they are until spring. This is a capi¬ 
tal plan for Tea and Hybrid Tea Roses. 

Perhaps the least troublesome plan of strik¬ 
ing Rose cuttings is to plant them in bods in 
the open ground. Cuttings from 5 inches to 
6 inches long arc made of the current year’s 
growth. If the lateral growths are a good 
size, these may be used, and in their case a 
“heel” is obtainable—that is, a portion of 
the old growth attached to their base. This 
is smoothed over with a sharp knife. Plant 
the cuttings in soil in which plenty of grit is 
mixed. It is a good plan to dig the ground 
up first, then dibble in the cuttings. They 
should stand out of the ground about one- 
third of their length. Be careful to make 
them firm at the base. Such cuttings would 
lie rooted sufficiently to pot up the follow¬ 
ing autumn.] 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Rose Climbing Frau Karl Druschki.— I had 

a Frau Karl Druschki climbing Rose given to me this 
spring. It had been primed back to two shoots—one 
about 3 feet long and the other about 2 feet. It has 
now made very strong growth, the new shoots, about 
six, being from 4 feet to 5 feet in length each, but 
not showing any signs of flowering. Jt is planted in 
a 9-inch pot, and 1 am growing it in a cool-house 
against a wall facing south-west. Could you advise 
me how to treat same, as it is a new variety to me? 
The soil is a nice mixture of good loam, bone-meal, 
and decayed manure, and my other trees have done 
exceedingly well in the same mixture.—SE.ACOMBE. 

[It is very doubtful whether your plant will 
flower this season. If it does, it will not be 
until the autumn. Your best plan will be to 
allow it to grow as it likes this summer, train¬ 
ing the growths horizontally; if not spaco 
enough, then perpendicularly. Next spring, 
instead of pruning, retain the growths almost 
their full length, when you should obtain 
plenty of short-stemmed blossoms. The 
bending of the growths next spring will cause 
more shoots to break outf each of which 
should produce a blossom.* After flowering 
next spring, cut the plant down considerably, 
to encourage other and similar long growths 




254 


GJllfiFMJYG 1LL tISTttA TED. 


JuLT 13, 190? 


during that summer. If vou preferred to do 
eo, next spring, you could train the shoots 
spirally around three or four sticks, provided 
the growths are pliable enough. You would 
be sure of a good blossoming by training 
in this way.] 

Rose Ards Pillar. —This is a somewhat dis¬ 
appointing Rose. It is of a fine colour in the 
half-open stage, the blooms then resembling 
in tint Duchess of Bedford, but on expanding 
the flowers are thin, and show their centres 
very quickly, the colour then being a rosy- 
crimson. For a strong growing hush or 
standard, or even as a pillar, it will be very 
useful, but it does not possess the same de¬ 
corative value as Francois Crousse. These 
semi-climbers make glorious standard Roses, 
making heads of semi-pendulous growth, eo 
entirely free from artificiality. Ards Rover 
is grand when grown on standard ; so also 
are Climbing Mrs. W. J. Grant, Climbing 
Captain Christy, etc. The Climbing Caro¬ 
line Testout should also make a fine free¬ 
headed standard, as two-year old pillar plants 
are flowering from base to summit, and carry¬ 
ing really lovely blooms. E. 

Rose Mme. Pierre Oger. Before the Hy¬ 
brid Teas and ether Roses are in full bloom, 
this charming sort shows to great advantage. 
The delicate tinting is delightful. A cupped- 
shaped flower of medium size, it has aground- 
work of nearly pure white, with edgings of 
carnation-pink. Excepting for its shape, one 
would take this Rose for a Carnation, or, 
rather, a Picotee. That it sported from an 
old Bourbon Rose. Heine Victoria, seems to 
me evident, the shape of flower being the 
same, and also the growth and colour of foli¬ 
age. Reine Victoria is a Rose with a rather 
deej) shade of rose. It is a splendid, vigorous 
sort, and both kinds are fine in autumn, a 
valuable trait of most of the Bourbon Roses. 
Mme. Pierre Oger should be seen as a stan¬ 
dard. It develops into a remarkably pic¬ 
turesque tree witli age, and one can always 
reckon on having a very pretty tinted blos¬ 
som to cut, so free and continuous is its 
habit. W. X. 

Rose Armosa or Hermosa. Whether the 
first or second name he correct, I cannot sav. 
but I notice many of the continental growers 
catalogue the Rt.s * iirnl: r the second name. 
That it is one of the best Roses for grouping 
cannot lie denied. Take any individual 
bloom, and see how beautiful its petals are 
formed, and with what a charming shade of 
pink they are endowed. It is superior in 
many respects to the old Blush China, and 
yet there are many who prefer the simple, 
elegant, old Monthly to the more formal 
Armosa. I have heard—indeed, have seen — 
that Armosa makes an effective sort for table 
decoration, although I imagine Mine. AIk* 1 
Chatenay or Caroline Testout. would be in¬ 
finitely more preferred, but the Rose is cheap, 
and quantities can l>e planted, bordering 
drives, or in parks, ami if. as they should l>e, 
the plants are on their own roots, after the 
first careful planting they will take care of 
themselves. This Rose is apt to suffer from 
black spot. This. [ believe, is caused from 
a too wet soil. Where the subsoiL is stiff it 
should be well broken up and drained, work¬ 
ing in plenty of grit when planting. Another 
lovely Rose to plant in masses would be 
Fellenberg. It is a most free and decorative 
sort. I find, however, its crimson-lake colour 
is not admired by many. No doubt Gruss an 
Tenlitz has proved a formidable rival to 
Fellenlierg. It is somewhat too vigorous, 
however. We want a Gruss an Teplita with 
about half its vigour, then Fellenberg and 
some others could Ik; dispensed with.— IIosa. 

Rose Cardenia. This lovely bright yellow 
Rambler is just now (June 20th) one of the 
prettiest pictures in our Rose garden. Hun¬ 
dreds of its beautiful Tea-like buds are upon 
a single plant, running wild over some old 
roots. To see the lusty growth, exquisite 
foliage, shining like that of a Tea Rose, and 
the clusters of two to five buds in such rich 
array, gives one a sense of delight.and grati¬ 
tude to the raiser of such a Rest*. This Rose 
forms a handsome pillar, with the long, 
drooping growths swaying in the wind, and 
some of them rambling over shrubs or any¬ 
thing they can enkctlvhold of. Clie may feel 
a little disnppoii^'d thal th.'^dfBhft) second 


blossoming of such a Rose as there is in the 
Tea-scented group, but, after all, we have a 
rich profusion now, and even when blossom 
has ceased, the foliage is handsome, and con 
tinues bright until the last. This variety has 
a pretty effect trained over handles of large 
baskets, and it is not alone in its usefulness 
for this purpose, as most of the charming 
Wichuraiana Roses have pliable shoots that 
lend themselves to this treatment. E. 

A pretty China Rose. There is a very 
pretty novelty in Arethusa, which lovers of 
Monthly Roses will welcome, swing that it is 
the only yellow variety yet raised. In the 
hud the colouring is very beautiful—a sort of 
citron-yellow, with lovely splashes of amber 
and rose. The open flowers pale off, as many 
of the yellows do. The growth is free and 
good, reminding one of that of another little 
gem, Queen Mob, and it is remarkably free 
and continuous in flowering, yielding quanti¬ 
ties of its lovely buds right, up to November. 
Although grouped with the China Roses, 1 
always look upon this class as belonging to 
the Tea scented section. Doubtless, all true 
Tea Roses originated from Rosa indiea, from 
which the Monthly Roses sprang, and one has 
only to sow seeds to-day of the common China 
when some delightfully-tinted Roses, much 
resembling the true Teas in form, colour, and 
fragrance, will Ik* the result. I mention this 
because it should l>e known by the uninitiated 
that these newer China Roses are not so 
hardy as the older forms, and. therefore, 
varieties like the one under notice Queen 
Mab. Aurore, Com tease de Cavla, etc.—should 
be regarded rather as Tea Roses and pro¬ 
tected in the same manner in the winter. 
These Tea Chinas make charming standards 
and half-standards, developing fine bushy 
heads, and the blossoms of some sorts, such 
as Mine. Eugene Resal, are better displayed 
in this way than when the plants are grown 
as bushes. - F. T. 

Roses Aglaia and Electra. Now that fine 
specimens nf both these Rises are found in 
our gardens, we can estimate their true 
value. It cannot lx* denied that there is a 
great similarity in blossom- so much so that, 
seen in the distance, one would take them to 
be the same variety, hut, a closer examina¬ 
tion will reveal certain distinct characteris¬ 
tics in eac h sort. Aglaia is about a week 
earlier than Electra. although just now (June 
18th) they are both finely in bloom. Aglaia 
began to open with us on the Gtli of June, 
whereas Electra began to flower on the 12th. 
A very distinct difference is in the growth. 
Electra will run upward to a great, height, 
and the base of the shoots for a yard or more 
will be almost devoid of foliage. On the 
other hand. Aglaia will make a huge spread¬ 
ing hush. I think the blossoms of Electra 
are by far the more beautiful. The tiny buds 
are a clear canary yellow, then they open u 
lovely (dear sulphur-yellow. When about 
half open they begin to change to a sulphur 
white, until, when fully out, they are almost 
a clear white. The blossom is very prettily 
formed, and almost cupped in shape ; the 
foliage a rather dull green. The wood, when 
hard, is almost a light cinnamon brown. The 
blossoms of Agluia are pale, almost white oil 
the edges of petals, and they are slightly re 
curved. The buds have a shading of 
brownish-red before they unfold. The ex¬ 
panded flower is nlmcst dead-white, whilst 
the foliage is more Tea-like and glistening. 
Electra has a great advantage over Aglaia in 
that it blossoms the first year after planting, 
but from Aglaia it is often three or four 
years ere we get a flower. It will l>e seen 
that both sorts are worth growing, but if 1 
could only plant one my choice would be 
Electra. * Although not so drooping ns the 
Wichuraiana group. Electra is. nevertheless, 
a splendid sort to grow on tall stems.—F. W. 

Rose Leonle Lamesch (dwarf Polyantha).— 
This charming little novelty is of very fine 
colour this season. The buds are really of a 
marvellous shade, something of the colour of 
Beaute Inconetante, a vivid coppery-red, 
with a golden centre. This Rose must be¬ 
come popular for massing, so unique is it. 
Perhaps the open flowers somewhat detract 
from the beauty. These are rosy-red, the 
flower being somewhat loose when in this 
stage, hut the buds are close and very hand, 
I some. It should be in every garden, either 


as an edging or as a strong bush, because it 
may be had as a bush some 3 feet to 4 feet 
high, and as much through. This Rose is 
aLso a delightful little sort for pot culture, 
and under glaas it at once attracts attention 
by reason of the wonderful colouring.— 
Rosa. 

Polyantha Rose Mignonette. — These 
charming little Rosea should lie known as 
miniature Roses. The term Polyantha is apt 
to be confused with the Rambler section of 
Polyantha or Multiflora Roses. The variety 
under notice is one of the daintiest of the 
group, the colour being a soft peach blossom 
blush. It makes a delightful edging plant 
to beds of crimson standards; or, indeed, 
it would harmonise almost with any Rose, so 
chaste and lovely is its colour. In habit it 
much resembles Gloire des Polyantha, but 
the latter has a deep rose-coloured blossom. 
Both varieties have the most perfectly formed 
blossoms and they are so abundantly pro¬ 
duced that a delightful piece of colour can 
be obtained almost continuously from June 
to October. These two, with Anna Marie de 
Montravel, are the most compact lowly 
growers of the whole group, and if a red were 
desired, Perle des Rouges would supply that 
colour, although it is scarcely so profuse in 
blossoming.—W. X. 

Rose Lady Waterlow (H.T.). This pretty 
(•limber is more beautiful than ever this sea¬ 
son, which seems to suit it admirably. It is 
of such a delightful tint—a sort of lively 
pink, with a lovelj’ suffusion of flesh tint and 
primrose It yields mc6t charming buds, 
and they are very freely produced. When 
expanded the flowers are then charming. 
When seen on a standard the suitability of 
this sort for growing in this form is very 
manifest, but it will blossom very freely as a 
dwarf, provided its growths are kept tied up 
to a cane. The plants are really not then 
dwarfs, but semi-climbers, and they may be 
kept in this form for several seasons bv judi¬ 
cious pruning, which consists in cutting the 
growths back each year to the desired height. 

Rosa. 

[Some very fine masses of this from the 
gardens at Wisley were shown at the meet¬ 
ing of the Royal Horticultural Society on 
Tuesday, the 25th ult.— Ed.] 

Rose Mme. Berard. “The old Roses beat 
a good many of the novelties,” is a remark 
often heard, and it is true. The above grand 
old sort is appearing now in most lovely 
profusion, its beautiful shapely buds, of rich 
apricot, tinted rosy red. make as pretty a 
button-hole as one could desire. Mme. 
Berard has found its way into numbers of 
gardens, and, perhaps, nowhere do we find 
it more beautiful than in that of the cottager, 
clothing a fence or wall, or. perhaps, like, 
some giant Lilac bush standing out alone in 
the garden. As a standard Mme. Berard is 
good, the only drawback being its inability 
to stand severe weather. Often one will find 
the stout, smooth-wooded shoots quite 
blackened on one side from frost, although 
sometimes I am inclined to think these in¬ 
juries are caused by insect punctures. Per¬ 
haps many may prefer the colour of Mine. 
Moreau to that of Mme. Berard, and cer¬ 
tainly it is superior, but the plant- suffers so 
terribly from mildew that what beauty it 
possesses is sadly marred by this pest. All 
who do not possess this Rose should certainly 
obtain one this coming autumn.—E. W. X. 

Disbudding exhibition Boses.— This is n most 
important detail, but it requires considerable judg¬ 
ment. It must be done gradually, for if the sap of 
several buds and shoots be suddenly diverted to one 
bud, the result will he most likely a malformed 
bloom. As soon as the tiny buds are seen surround¬ 
ing the centre bud they should be removed. A little 
later the shoot will be found to product* new growths 
beneath the flower-buds. These must be gradually 
suppressed—one or two ut a time. Tea Roses require 
watching every day for these side shoots, for it is 
useless to expect high-class blossoms if a number of 
growths are allowed to obtain the nourishment that 
should go to three or four. 


“The English Flower Garden and Home 

Grounds ."—New Edition, 10th, revised, with descrip¬ 
tions of all the best plants, trees, atui shrubs, their 
culture awl arrangement, illustrated on wood. Cloth, 
medium, 8vo., M >*.; post free, 15s. Gd. 

“The English Flower Garden" man oho be 
had fulfil/ bmiTut in - Hols., half odium, ? Kf. nett. Of 
all booksellers. — 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



July 13, 190? 


Gardening illustrated. 


255 



OUTDOOR PLANTS. 

NIEREMBERGIA FILICAULIS. 
Nieremberqias are New Zealand plants, 
which for garden purposes may be divided 
into two classes. In the former is N. rivularis, 
a dwarf creeping plant, which increases 
rapidly, and is hardy in light soils, but which 
will not flower well unless it is treated more 
or less as an aquatic. In the second are 
plants passing under various names—filicaulis, 
frutesceiis, gracilis—which are sub-slirubby in 
character, and only differ from one another 
in the presence or absence of a purplish blue 
eye in the flower. They can be kept through 
an ordinary winter if well protected, but it 
is better to strike some cuttings, and keep 
them through the winter in a frame. As will 
be seen from the illustration this flowers pro¬ 
fusely, and is as beautiful as it is free. 


SWEET PEAS. 

We are close to the flowering season of these 
beautiful and popular annuals. So far. the 
season has favoured the Pens, because of 


dustings of lime and soot the other. With 
respect to the spring sowings, now that 
branching is rapidly developing, it can more 
readily be seen how far plants are thick. 
Experienced growers who sow seed in the 
open or raise pLants in pots, and then plant 
them out singLy into rows or clumps, give 
ample room—at least from 6 inches to 9 inches 
apart. Where, therefore, sowings now make 
plants thick, it is better to cut out one-half 
of them at once, and give the rest a fair 
chance to make strong growth, and bloom 
for a long season. A. 1). 


MAY TULTPS. 

Whilst Early or Dutch Tulips are fairly 
common in gardens now, not only l>ecause 
cheap, but also because there is so much of 
beauty in them, there is much less of know¬ 
ledge concerning the late or May-flowering 
section, although these are even more beauti¬ 
ful, and specially for those who like cut 
flowers, are, with their long stems, far more 
fitted for cutting than are the early varieties, 
late flowering Tulips may be, for coin- 
n purposes, divided into four sections. 


seedling variety, showing self colour, such, for 
instance, as the dark Sultan, may now be 
I found in many thousands, and every flower 
keeping true to colour. Generally these Dar¬ 
win Tulips are at their best about the middle 
of May. All are fairly tall, being borne on 
stiff, erect stems, and, if flowers are cut 
whilst young, and kept in water in a cool 
room, they will remain fresh and beautiful 
for fully a fortnight. * 

It is the rule to lift all the bulbs of these 
each summer, and to replant in October—not 
that it is absolutely essential, but the practice 
is advised as best for the section. The florists’ 
varieties of Tulips, including, beyond those 
named, seifs, or breeders, are specially 
selected for their form and perfect colouring, 
both of which they generally retain, as 
though, also called breeders, they seem rarely 
to break or become flakes or feathered forms. 
Only Tulip fanciers, a class that seems to be 
dwindling away, can fully appreciate the 
charm found in perfectly-marked flowers. 
The self Darwins, when seen in the mass, 
such as lire found in the Long Ditton bulb 
farm, or elsewhere, present glorious features 
that any mass of flaked or feathered forms 
would not convey. All 
late Tulips are now be¬ 
coming cheap. They 
have the merit of being 
home grown, and, not 
only go on increasing 
in numbers from year to 
year, but thrive and 
bloom well under ordi¬ 
nary conditions of cul¬ 
ture. A few fine Dar 
wins are Grand Mon- 
arque, rich maroon ; 
Queen of Roses, Clara 
Butt, rose-pink; Dream, 
mauve; Auher, maroon- 
purple; Mrs. Farncombe 
Sanders, dark salmon- 
rose ; Pride of Haarlem, 
crimson ; Psyche, peach ; 
White Queen, Nautica, 
rich rose; Mrs. Krelage, 
soft rose; Flambeau, 
deep scarlet; Yellow Em¬ 
peror. and Chameleon, 
flaked. D. 


HARDY FLOWER 


Niereinhergia filicaulis. 


abundant rains; but, on the other band, 
bloom promises to be late, because of the long 
continued low temperature. That flowers thus 
promise to be late should induce growers to 
test the results of autumn sowing, as when 
plants so produced do stand well through the 
winter, they will bloom well from two to 
three weeks earlier than the earliest of 
the outdoor spring sowings. As evidence of 
the possibility of keeping Sweet Peas secure 
from harm during winter, there is the ex¬ 
perience of Messrs. Dobbie and Co., at 
Mark’s Toy, Essex, who sowed quite a large 
breadth last September in the open field, and 
in a position fully exposed to the wind no 
shelter of any description being afforded. The 
growth was good, the plants wintered well, 
suffering practically nothing from the cold 
weather, and the winter was, for some time 
at least, far from being a mild one. On 
June 10th, from* plants feet in height, the 
firm was able to cut a fine collection of 
flowers and send into Cornwall for exhibition. 
It is, therefore, quite evident that what, pan 
be done in an Essex field could be done in 
many other places. No doubt in enclosed 
gardens there is danger Leefn birds and cround 
vermin, j but nets kcc/ off. one ajid Eibfcral 


| First, there are the numerous species, pure. 
I natural forms, all beautiful, some quaint in 
outline and colour, mostly having pointed 
j petals, yet all, according to taste, very beauti¬ 
ful. Next come the section known as Cot- 
[ tage Tulips, one that may be said to include 
, the various species, yet largely is composed 
! of varieties that have been bred from species, 

; are very hardy, and. once planted in gardens, 

I will go on grow ing and flowering for genera¬ 
tions. Many of these have been unearthed 
j from old convent or monastery gardens, where 
religiously cared for—perhaps, for centuries 
| —they have shown their pertinacity and 
j beauty. Then come the Darwin Tulips. 
These chiefly, if not exclusively, represent 
| seedling varieties raised from named varie- 
| ties of the florists’ type, in the hope of secur¬ 
ing some new self-colour or new and dis- 
| tinctive markings. It is noticeable that all 
these “Darwins” have broad, rotund petals 
and flowers of fine cupped form, such as 
florists aim to secure. But whilst the true 
florists’ varieties—especially these known as 
flaked, bizarre, and bybloemens—have mark¬ 
ings' which make them distinct, these Dar¬ 
wins are chiefly of self colour, and those 
self hues they retain. Thus what was once a 


NOTES. 

Campanula muralts 
BA VARIC.W —A group of 
this, -4 feet in length, and 
3 feet wide, bearing 
many hundred of blooms, 
is now (June 28th) very 
beautiful. It is growing 
on a bank, in which posi¬ 
tion it displays itself to 
the best advantage. This 
variety differs from the 
type in having rather 
larger blooms, which are 
deeper in colour, and the 
growth of the plant is appreciably stronger. 
There is no finer dwarf June-blooming plant 
than this. Like the typical form, it will 
thrive in poor ground, and its natural vitality 
is so great that it rarely bears the impress of 
long-continued heat or drought. 

CORONTLLA ibkrica. —If any of your 
readers need a plant that will thrive luxuri¬ 
antly, and take on permanent vigour with a 
minimum amount of food and moisture, let 
him make a note of this Coronilla. It simply 
rejoices in conditions that are inimical to. and, 
sometimes, kill the majority of hardy plants. 
On a dry hank facing the sun it is quite at. 
home, and retains its verdure undiminished 
in the hottest and driest of summers. About 
eighteen months ago I put quite a small plant 
on a dry bank in very light soil, and it now 
covers a space about a yard square. All 
through June it has been a picture, the 
numerous bright yellow blossoms being shown 
up to perfection by the rich, deep green foli¬ 
age. For soils that parch in summer this is 
a precious plant. 

Salvia Tenorei.— This species of Sage 
has been very fine With *hie this season. At 
time, of writing—(June 27thbait is in full 
bloomy making a fine 'splaeh of colour. A 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 








256 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


July 13, 1507 


dozen good-sized specimens furnished with 
large, branching spikes of bloom, make quite 
a striking feature. I am not acquainted with 
any other June-flowering perennial that is 
capable of furnishing such a complete con¬ 
trast in the way of colour. With me this 
Salvia grows with much freedom. I have it 
growing in various positions, but it certainly 
does best where the crowns are several inches 
above the ordinary ground level. Where 
there is not much accommodation for winter¬ 
ing tender beddcrs, this Salvia might be used 
in combination with the hardy forms of 
Gladioli. 

Lathyrus Drummondi.- In an accidental 
manner one is sometimes enabled to realise 
the conditions under which a hardy plant is 
really happy. Two years ago a plant'of this 
Everlasting Pea happened to be set among a 
small group of Spiraea gigantea and Gillenia 
trifoliata. T notice this season that it is 
rambling freely among those things, and has 
a more healthy and altogether better appear¬ 
ance than when trained to stakes in the usual 
manner. It is evident that this i« the way 
it grows in its native habitat, and gives an 
idea of how it should be treated in this 
country. I can plainly see now why the 
blooms are so weather-sick with us : they are 
away from their natural conditions when in 
full exposure to sun and heavy rains. This 
Pea for its welfare requires the shelter of a 
superior vegetation, where it can ramble 
freely among low-growing shrubs, which, in 
some degree, shelter it from the burning sun, 
tempestuous winds, and battering rains. 

Iris gigantea. A noble hardy plant this, 
when seen at its best, but a certain amount of 
patience is required, for it is one of those 
things that must be thoroughly established 
before its decorative value can be fully rea¬ 
lised. I have grown this Iris about ten years 
in various positions, and find that it must 
have abundance of sun, and loves warmth at 
the roots, with free drainage, in combina¬ 
tion with abundance of moisture at the roots. 
At time of writing this (July 1st), a group of 
about a score of plants just coming into bloom 
forms a fine feature. The large, ivory-white 
blooms, borne on 4 feet stems, are imposing, 
and are excellent for cutting. 

Byfleet. J. Cornhill. 


HARDY FLOWERS IN MASSES. 
There are few gardens in which there is not 
some attempt to establish hardy plants, but 
it is seldom that they are grown so as to show 
off their true effect, and that is in large 
masses. Many of the most beautiful fea¬ 
tures in the garden are the masses of hardy 
flowers, especially those of Mossy growth, 
that hang down over the ledges, and give 
brilliant patches of colour. It is when seen 
in this way that we can admire the simple 
beauty of a 1 pines, and wish that more would 
repeat such effects, and not kill the plants 
with kindness, as is too often the case, under 
the impression that they are tender and fas¬ 
tidious. Aubrietias and many of the Rock 
Pinks need no special conditions beyond a 
sunny nook and plenty of space to spread at 
will. It is when they are constantly tam¬ 
pered with by dividing that the plants are 
hindered from making that progress that they 
would do if left alone, as in Nature. It is, 
of course, impossible, where the garden is 
small, to grow many things and have large 
patches of each ; but it is infinitely better to 
restrict the number, and do those well, than 
have a lot of weakly things that give but 
little pleasure. The waving masses of the 
Apeninne Windflower, Bluebells, and, earlier 
in the year, Snowdrops, Daffodils, and Cro¬ 
cuses at Kew were a source of the greatest 
delight to the visitors, simply because they 
were grown as naturally as possible. Treat¬ 
ing our hardy flowers in this way costs but 
little, gives scarcely any trouble, and the 
pleasure derived is ten times greater to those 
who admire simple beauty than if only a 
wretched scrap were seen. 

In exhibiting hardy flowers it is far better 
to show large tufts than small bits, and this 
is becoming the fashion, for such we must 
call it, with the result that we have bolder 
groups of flowers, that, seen at the show, are 
us effective and tel ling as we can desire. 
Whatever it is, wbeefier tlje t inv Jilck Pink 
iu a on the wa^oc^h^ XpAjJi'l^^ind- 


flower in the wild garden, or the Marsh Mari¬ 
gold in the moist corner, let all grow ns 
naturally as possible, and they will bloom 
with their wonted freedom and brilliancy. It 
is a pity that aquatic plants do not receive 
a little more favour. It is not difficult to 
establish what is known as a bog garden, 
where Marsh Marigolds grow like weeds, and 
such things as the scarlet Lobelia, a truly 
moisture-loving plant, Sarracenia purpurea, 
Spiraea palmata, etc., find conditions which, 
from their vigorous nature, they thoroughly 
enjoy. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Clover in tennis lawn —My tennis-lawn is very 
full of Clover. Will you kindly advise me the best 
way to get rid of it, and what is the best top¬ 
dressing for the Grass? Mine is a very light sandy 
soil.—It. B'NOP.TH. 

[The best top-dressing for a tennis-lawn 
where the soil is poor and sandy is good 
heavy loam from a clay base, mixed witli a 
little good manure, if available. Put this on 
in the autumn, and let it settle down during 
winter. Feed the Grasses well, and they 
will ultimately smother the Clover, but any 
large patches should be cut out and either 
filled with turf or seeds sown. If anything 
is used now, it should be some quick-acting 
stimulant, such as nitrate of soda or sulphate 
of ammonia; apply it only in showery 
weather, or mix it with water.] 

Anchusa italic a (the Dropmore variety). 
—What a superb border plant is this fine 
Borage-wort! The new variety, Opal, is, 
evidently, a selected seedling from it, the 
colour being of a rather paler blue than is 
that of the Dropmore variety. I have just 
seen in fine growth the original type, quite 
relatively small-flowered, the Dropmore 
variety, a strong three or four year-old plant, 
and a seedling from it, one-year-old, a noble 
plant, 4 feet in height, the flowers certainly 
finer than are those on the parent. I infer 
from this that plants may remain too long in 
one position, and would be improved in 
flower production were the plants shifted to 
fresh soil at least every two years. Also it 
is evident that seedlings give, the first year, 
at least, much finer flowers than old plants 
produce. The plants do not seed freely, and 
every 6eed or natural seedling should be pre¬ 
served. A more beautiful hardy bl tie- 
flowered border plant cannot be found.— 
A. D. 

Brompton Stocks.— I read with interest, a 
note by “ F. W. D.” concerning Brompton 
Stocks, but was all the same much puzzled 
to read of purple-flowered ones, as I have 
never met with that colour in true Bromp- 
tons. The common hue is scarlet, and an 
uncommon colour in these Stocks is white. 
Unfortunately, both varieties seem now to be 
very scarce. The purple stocks referred to 
may have been the dense-branohing form we 
used to grow so largely in Middlesex as 
Queen, also known as Twickenham Purple, 
or they may have been Emperor Stocks, 
taller of growth, but still having branching 
heads, or some well-wintered East Lothians. 
A true Brompton having purple-hued flowers 
should be a distinct novelty. How seldom 
do we see the grand old giant scarlet Bromp- 
tons now ! Many years ago I bad both scar¬ 
let and white Giants in fine double form, 
but in. time both became singles, and no one 
wanted them.—A. D. 

Increasing bedding plants.- If amateurs 
make one mistake greater than another as 
regards the management of bedding plants, 
it is deferring, as many of them do, the pro¬ 
pagation of their stock until late in the sea 
son. It. seems to me that, they do not under¬ 
stand the value of early-struck cuttings, or 
they would make an effort to get them rooted 
earlier. One cutting put in Ik 1 fore the middle 
of August is worth two put iri a month later ; 
early-struck cuttings pass through the win¬ 
ter with less risk and care than later struck 
ones. Cuttings put in early in August will 
have sufficient time to make plenty of roots, 
and to harden up their growth before damp 
and frosty weather sets in ; consequently, 
they will be in better condition to bear a 
little rough treatment during winter than 
those which have but few roots and soft, 
sappy stems. Those who have to provide these 
plants in thousands have many opportunities 
of testing this matter, and it has been found 


to be a decided advantage to take all the cut¬ 
tings it is possible to get, especially of bed¬ 
ding Pelargoniums, some time in August, and 
the earlier the better; then the losses of 
plants during winter are trifling compared 
with cuttings struck late, and if from any 
cause we cannot secure all we want by that 
time, we have to make up our mind to treat 
late-struck ones much more tenderly than 
such as are propagated early. Cuttings of 
Pelargoniums taken off at the time men¬ 
tioned, and dibbled into a shady border, will 
strike freely in a few weeks, and the only 
attention they require is to give them a little 
water occasionally in dry weather; then, in 
October, they may be taken up and put into 
pots for the winter. Even the delicate tri¬ 
colors and bronze varieties strike much 
more freely then in an open border than they 
do a month later under the protection of 
glass.—T. 

Montbretias.—Growers of Montbretias 
arc sometimes disappointed to find that, after 
a few years, they cease to bloom with that 
freedom as when first planted. This may 
generally be. traced to their becoming con¬ 
gested at the roots. When such is the case, 
it is best, in the following autumn, to take 
the bulbs up and divide them, planting each 
separately. They will grow in almost any 
kind of soil so long as they are where the 
sun can reach them, and are of great ser¬ 
vice to the town gardener, because they bloom 
well under conditions that to other plants 
would prove fatal; moreover, they are so, 
hardy as to withstand the severest winter. 
Add to this that they are delightful for cut¬ 
ting, and last a long time in water. Lea- 
hurst. 

Campanulas. —Much has been written 
from time to time concerning the advantage 
of Campanulas in a garden, and no one need 
apologise for returning to a plant that is so 
popular with all classes who have gardens. 
The Peach-leaved Bellflower (C. pereici* 
folia) is one of the handsomest, and pyra- 
midalis is surely one of the most popular, 
both of them making capital back row plants 
on a border, and affording much bloom for 
many weeks during the summer. But there 
are other sorts, dwarf in habit, that have 
their use in a garden, and are very 
beautiful. We think in this connection of 
C. isophylla, C. i. alba, and C. Mayii, all of 
which are almost indispensable where trailing 
plants are wanted for baskets or pots for 
either indoors or out. And then there are 
some of the alpine forms, which are of much 
service wherever there are rockeries to be 
furnished ; little plants which like the mois¬ 
ture to be found in the niches and crevices. 
Most people, I think, resort to root division 
to obtain additional plants, and overlook 
with what ease they may be raised from 
seed sown in a cold frame or open ground. 
The time for sowing the seed is now, and 
from such a sowing one may get plants that 
will bloom another year. Campanulas like a 
fairly rich soil, and when their flowering 
shoots appear, the taller sorts should be 
staked, otherwise they are apt to be broken 
off by rough winds and rain.— Townsman. 

Gladiolus The Bride- The growers of the early 
white-flowering Gladiolus The Bride are not so 
numerous as those who cultivate the scarlet Brench- 
leyensis; blit those who can succeed with it are loud 
in their praise as providing many useful cut spikes. 
On some soils, however, G. The Bride does not always 
do well, and I have heard of cases where newly- 
planted conns this spring have rotted oil ori account 
of the cold and wet. In districts, too, where the 
soil is sandy, and it has been deemed safe to leave 
the corms in the soil all winter, many failures 
have occurred. Given a favourable spring, one may 
usually depend on it out.-of-doors, but in my own case 
I find that many of the corms have failed.—WooD- 
BAST WICK. 

Pinks. There is a wholesome fragrance about 
Pinks that makes them very charming in a garden, 
and in a border, near a dwelling-house, they are 
doubly interesting. And then, too, they are very 
easily grown, doing well in an open, sunny place, so 
long as the soil is fairly pood, lasting for two or 
three years with little attention. Perhaps it is their 
simple culture that is responsible in some measure 
for their being left too long, ami which results in 
the old plants cankering and eventually dying off. 
Undoubtedly, the best results arc obtained from 
young plants, and these are readily secured by 
putting in cuttings in sandy soil in a eold frame 
directly the flowering season is over. Pinks make 
desirable edging plants, and even when there are 
no flowers the foliage is neat and attractive. I have 
been aubMng some blooms of Mrs, Kjqkjns from young 
olsufsy B|r ; IL are bKiorning_lYiellJ Ulisls-a-on.--L la- 


July 13, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


257 


ORCHIDS. 

L/ELIO CATTLEYA DIGBYANO MOSSLE 
QUEEN. ALEXANDRA. 

The original Lselio-Cattleya Digbyano- 
Mossioo was first raised by Mr. John Seden 
in the nursery of Messrs. Jas. Veitch and 
Sons, in 1889. It was then considered a most 
remarkable seedling, and, when exhibited at 
the R.H.S., on May 14th, 1889, was unani¬ 
mously awarded a first-class certificate. The 
subject of the illustration was raised by Mr. 
Charlesworth, of Heaton, Bradford, its 
parents being the white form of Cattleya 
Mofcsiae, known as C. M. Wageneri, and 
Ltelia Digbyana. This variety was also 
greatly admired when Mr. Charlesworth 
showed it at the R.H.S. on October 18th, 
1904, when it was unanimously awarded a 


away. The usual mixture of good fibrous 
peat, three parts to one part of chopped 
Sphagnum Moss, with an addition of small, 
broken crocks, forms a suitable compost. If 
good, lasting peat cannot be obtained, a very 
fair substitute may be found in Polypodium 
fibre, or the American Osmunda fibre, either 
of which may easily bo obtained from the 
various horticultural sundriesmen. The 
Polypodium and Osmunda fibres may be 
mixed together, if desirable, or they may be 
used separately with equally good results. 
Both materials should be chopped up rather 
finely and a moderate amount of Sphagnum 
Moss and small crocks be well mixed with 
them. Press the materials rather firmly 
around the plant, especially in the centre, 
being careful not to break or injure any roots 
in the operation. The proper time to repot is 
soon after growth recommences, and after re- 



Lselio-Cattleya Dighyano-Mossise Queen Alexandra. 


F.C.C. by the Orchid committee. The illus¬ 
tration represents the flower at only about 
one half of its proper dimensions. It is a 
beautiful white form without a trace of pink, 
which is the m<*t prominent colour in the 
first raised hybrid, the only colour being a 
tinge of gre'en on the sepals. and a little 
light primrose on the disc of the lip, the 
front of which is white, broad, with a deli¬ 
cately fringed margin. It is interesting to 
note that one of its parents, C. Mossim, is a 
native of Venezuela, while L. Ci"byana comes 
from Honduras. As regards cultivation, this 
hybrid may receive the same as that, afforded 
to Cattleyas and Lielias generally. The plant 
may be grown in a pot or pan, which should , 
be perfectly clean and dry, and, if new, : 
should be well soaked and dried previous to 
being used. Afford ample drainage by hav¬ 
ing the receptacles half filled with clean 
crocks, over which place a thin layer of rough 
Moss, to prevent tne c/rfifpost being \^shed 

[ Go gTe 


| potting afford the plant one good watering, 
| after which keep the surface of the potting 
[ material moderately moist. When fully estab- 
1 lished, the plant will require a good watering 
each time it becomes thoroughly dry, but the 
j inexperienced grower must exercise care in 
J the use of the watering pot, bearing in mind 
that this hybrid and others of the same class 
| do not at any time appreciate being kept in a 
| saturated condition at the root for any length 
of time, this being one of the principal causes 
why so many of these plants have deteriorated 
under our artificial methods of cultivation. 

W. H. W. 


LYCASTES. 

Lycaste Skinneri is the best known and 
the most popular species of this genus. It 
was discovered in Guatemala by Mr. Ure 
Skinner, who brought it to England in 1841. 
It first flowered in this country in the follow¬ 


ing year. Sinco that time L. Skinneri has 
been frequently introduced in large numbers, 
and the imported plants invariably possess 
such variety that scarcely two will be found 
[ exactly alike, especially in the labellum, the 
j colours varying from maroon-crimson to the 
pure white L. S. alba, a variety which has 
always been valuable, and is still a rare plant 
in collections. Where convenience for their 
| culture exists, Lyons tee deserve to be well 
represented, as when well grown the plants 
are very free flowering, the blooms also re¬ 
maining fresh on the plant for a long time 
when cut, a matter of importance where 
plants for decoration and cut flowers are 
much in request. The great merit of the 
Lycastes as useful Orchids is generally recog¬ 
nised, especially where a number of plants is 
cultivated, from the fact of their blooming 
over a lengthened period, some flowering 
( through the winter, while others come in 
j during the spring months. In some gardens 
where these Lycastes are grown it often hap¬ 
pens that they do not possess the strength 
and vigour which they easily attain where 
the treatment is favourable to their full de- 
l velopment. The most frequent cause of weak¬ 
ness may generally be traced to their being 
too heavily watered during the earlier stages 
of growth, also to growing them in too high 
a temperature. Lycastes are best potted in 
1 the spring, but in cases where the plants have 
| only just commenced to grow, or where the 
growths are several inches in length, they 
may safely l>e repotted, if necessary, at this 
season. As is the case with all plants that 
( require copious waterings in the growing sea¬ 
son, the drainage in the pots should t>e 
thorough, filling them to nearly half their 
depth with clean, broken crocks, and tin; 
plants should have ample pot room, as they 
l root freely r . The compost may consist of 
rough, fibrous peat and Sphagnum Moss, with 
I some small crocks intermixed. After repot¬ 
ting, great care is necessary when watering. 

| or the young growths are prone to rot, and 
I disease in the bulbs ensue. Instead of heavy 
I waterings at first, the better plan is to 
slightly sprinkle the soil and damp well be 
tween the pots several times a day, according 
to the condition of the weather outside. By 
these means the new roots will be induced to 
lengthen and lay hold of the sides of the pot, 
ami by that time the young growths will have 
made considerable progress, and abundance 
of water will be required. Plants of L. 
Skinneri and its numerous varieties are tho¬ 
roughly at home at the warmest end of the 
Odontogloesum, or cool-hou6e ; they will also 
grow well in a moist, shady position in an 
ordinary greenhouse, so long as the tempera¬ 
ture does not fall below 50 degs. The foliage 
of these plants is often seen of a yellowish 
hue, instead of a fresh green colour. The 
cause is generally through a small species of 
red-spider, which feeds upon the under sides 
of the leaves, but an occasional sponging 
with soft, tepid water, or some weak insecti¬ 
cide, both over and under the leaves, will 
check their reproduction. 

In gardens where cultivators have failed to 
grow' plants of this species satisfactorily in 
the ordinary mixture of peat and Sphagnum 
Moss, a trial should be made of the follow¬ 
ing method. Place an oval-shaped piece of 
crock over the bottom of the pot, and a few 
large pieces over this, covering them with 
some finely-broken crocks, then a thin layer 
of rough Sphagnum Moss, pressing it down 
firmly. Turn the plant out of the pot, and 
remove as much of the old soil as possible 
without injury to the roots : then take a suit¬ 
able sized pot. previously prepared as 
directed, place the roots in the pot. keeping 
the base of the pseudo -buibs about on a level 
with the rim, fill in carefully between the 
roots with some of last season’s Oak leaves. 
These are best rubbed through a half-inch 
sieve, adding plenty of coarse silver 6»nd 
with it. Shake the soil well down to the 
drainage, and up to the rim of the pot : it 
is not advisable to press the soil down as in 
the usual manner. After several waterings, 
as previously advised, the soil will have 
settled down considerably, when it should 
again be re-surfaced with more leaf-soil and 
sand, and in the same manner. This should be 
continued whenever necessary until the new 
psendo-bulbs:commence4o| form, when a-top- 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 









258 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


July 13, 1907 


dressing of living Sphagnum Moss should be 
packed firmly over the surface, and water in 
abundance must then lx? afforded. When the 
new pseudo-bulbs are fully made up, the 
plants should be kept somewhat drier at the 
root, but on no account must they be allowed 
to shrivel from want of water, but the little 
check which they receive in having less will 
enable the flowers to come up altogether, in¬ 
stead of by twos and threes at a time. 


VEGETABLES* 

LATE BROCCOLI ON BORDERS. 

Mr. Crook saya, on page 228, we have loo 
many varieties oT Broccoli, which is. no 
doubt, true. There is, it might be said, no 
need for so many, because certainly no reader 
of Gardening Illustrated can find space 
to gro\v them all. One or two will serve the 
purpose very well. Late sorts need to 1*’ 
sown late, and planted on firm ground. If 
they are given a north border there would be 
a prospect of a prolonged season over that 
obtained from the open site. Our garden 
has, skirting the vegetable breadths, large 
bush trees, which east shadows on the 12-feet 
borders in front of the walls. Thus we find, 
when convenience and rotation of crop allow', 
a west aspect is almost as good as the cooler 
north border, and answers as well for the 
latest Broccoli. Model and Late Queen are 
good late sorts, both having an upright leaf 
habit, which protects the head. I am not. 
quite sure that the two kinds need lx> grown 
by anyone, for their season is similar. Too- 
goods Reliance I have found a good Cauli¬ 
flower-like late Broccoli in the purity of its 
colour, and Dickson’s June King calls for a 
similar remark. Wilcovc’s, as 1 have grown 
it. has a yellow rather than a pure white 
curd, which is objectionable to many, 
though, from an edible or a hardy stand¬ 
point, it matters but little. Those, however, 
who must perforce study the tastes and 
fancies of others, cannot lightly pass over 
these items. 

Disappointment necessarily comes with 
passing seasons, and the nature of the winter 
and spring varies, and the autumn also. 
Broccolis may, and often do, grow luxi- 
antly in the autumn, .giving hopeful outlooks 
for the future, when a sudden 6pell of severe 
frost will change the aspect as affecting early 
and mid-winter stocks, and sometimes, too, 
the later ones also. Then, again, there are 
periods to he recalled when, in early spring, 
there is mild weather, which pushes growth 
prematurely forward. Such happened this 
year, when at Easter it will be remembered 
how summer-like the weather was. To this 
was undoubtedly due the early and short sea¬ 
son of the summer Broccoli, all sorts alike 
showing the 6ame hasty development. For 
this reason many gardeners adopt a wider 
selection of kinds, on the chance that sea¬ 
sons may not affect all alike. The Broccoli 
has as great a value at this season, if not 
more so, than at any time of the winter. 

W. Strug sell. 


pods were obtainable till towards the end of 
June. Like the previously named kinds, this 
is an excellent early Pea, coming in by a 
few days before Gradus. Dwarf Peas are as 
remarkable for the excess of haulm as the 
taller ones, and this is not confined to any 
one kind. Chelsea Gem. still one of the best 
carlies, is over 2 feet high, and is full of 
pods almost from the ground to the tips. 
The pods hang thickly in pairs, and yield 
good sized Peas of true Marrowfat quality, 
and a good-sized seed. Witham Wonder, re¬ 
commended as a rival for earliness to Chel¬ 
sea Gem and kindred sorts, failed to keep 
up its reputation; indeed, when the latter 
were full of bloom in May, William Wonder 
had scarcely an open flower. Witham Won¬ 
der is the dwarfer of the two. Carter’s Little 
Marvel is a first class Pea, its growth dwarf, 
deep green, pods freely, and is among the 
carlies. There is also found to be a heavy 
yield when they are prepared for table. Sut¬ 
ton’s Excelsior and Dwarf Marrowfat are two 
other splendid Peas which serve us well. 

All the kinds enumerated are growing on 
one long, sheltered border in our garden— 
not sown on the same date, but at an interval 
of about fourteen days. There will not, it 
need scarcely be said, lx? so much space lx:- 
twoen them, in point of maturity, as the later 
sowings grow more quickly, due to the in¬ 
creased soil warmth. All the Peas named 
have gone considerably beyond their normal 
catalogued height, and are more than usually 
vigorous, which, no doubt, is due to the fre¬ 
quent rains. All are slower than is found in 
drier and warmer seasons, which is only 
what one may reasonably expect. The cold 
June is the cause of the lateness of crops, 
which everyone complains of this year. 

W. 8. 


EXCESS OF HAULM IN PEAS. 

The dripping nature of the season, up to the 
end of June, gave rise to a considerable ex¬ 
cess of growth in garden Peas—at any rate, 
in the case of the early-sown and early-matur¬ 
ing stocks. This, in turn, gives a corres¬ 
ponding lateness of season, for while the 
haulm was extending the pod development 
suffered. Much of this upward growth might 
have been cheeked by pinching out the tips of 
each plant, but there is not usually a need 
for this in early kinds of Peas. Gradus, a 
very popular 3^ feet early Pea, does not 
usually disappoint, but in 1907 it will lx^ re¬ 
membered as attaining not 3$ feet only, but 
nearly, or quite, 7 feet. It is very doubtful 
—indeed, it is certain—there will not be a 
crop in proportion to the abnormal height to 
which the haulm has gone. There is, how¬ 
ever, a good yield of its handsome pods. 
Carter’s Early Morn and Sutton’s Early 
Giant are similar Peas, and have shown the 
same tendencies in regard to the haulm 
height and pod — J - i: — 
certainly belied 



NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Bolting Cabbages. I was much interested 
in the note on “Cabbages bolting,’’ by 
“W. S.,“ in tlie issue of June 22nd, p. 207, 
and, while agreeing with your correspondent 
to a certain extent, at the same time do not 
think the tendency to bolt in the spring such 
a mystery a.s he seems to imagine. My ex¬ 
perience, which has been a very extended one 
as regards Cabbages, is that it very largely 
depends on the weather in the spring—an im¬ 
portant factor, which “W. S.” seems to have 
overlooked; and whenever we have an un¬ 
usually warm and sunny period during 
March, such as we experienced this season, 
it seems to produce a certain precocity in the 
plants, which invariably leads to a large per¬ 
centage running to seed instead of hearting. 
Of course, very much depends upon the purity 
and selection of the stocks grown, but I do 
not think that is everything. This season I 
grow six varieties in quantity—namely, 
Wheeler’s Imperial (Warminster stock). Ear¬ 
liest of All, Flower of Spring, Ellam’s Early, 
Sutton’s April, and Veitch’s Maincrop. Of 
the first-named, not a plant ran to seed, the 
percentage of bolters among the other varie¬ 
ties varying from 17 per cent, to 32 per cent., 
and this in spite of the seed being obtained 
direct from the firms sending out these 
varieties. The seed of Wheeler’s Imperial 
was sown on July 17th. and I find this 
variety may be sown at this early date with 
perfect safety. The others were sown August 
12th. All were planted nut in September, 
and I commenced cutting Wheeler’s Imperial 
at Easter, the others, with the exception of 
Maincrop, about three weeks later. The 
Drumhead type of pickling Cabbage, planted 
out and in seed-beds, ran to seed in a whole¬ 
sale manner, and complaints from all parts 
of the country have been loud and frequent. 
—E. B. 

Scotch, Irish, and English Potatoes. I 

hope many trials, especially those of a public 
or county character, of seed Potatoes from 
the above diverse parts of the kingdom are 
being conducted in the country, just as ours 
in Surrey is this year. We have the trial in 
an extensive, open, upland field, on a sandy 
loam, and the whole culture is of a field 
nature, not an inch of the ground being dug, 
but ploughed, just as the farmer whose 
ground we occupy treats his many acres of 
Potatoes adjoining our plot. We have plan- 
Queen I ted ten varieties, rows of sets grown in 
for no j Surrey, the Midlands, Scotland, and Ireland 


and already the diverse growths seen show 
remarkable* results. There is little to choose 
between Irish and Scotch seed results, so far. 
Up to the present the Scotch and Irish 
growths outstrip English growths in a 
wonderful way. All set6 were of the same 
size, all treated alike, were planted in 
ploughed furrows, and covered with forks; 
later horse-hoed and plough-moulded, hence 
there has been no garden culture.—A. D. 


GARDEN WORK. 

Conservatory. Show Pelargoniums which 
have been ri|x*ued outside may be cut down 
and the best of the cuttings inserted in sandy 
soil round the side of 5-inch pots. They will 
root in a cool frame or cool greenhouse, if 
kept reasonably moist, but not wet. I have 
rooted them outside, but it is better to have 
the means of sheltering them from heavy 
rains. They will scarcely require shade, un¬ 
less the sun is very hot. Primula obcunica, 
in spite of its had character, is a good deal 
grown, and will make a pretty group in the 
conservatory. Plants are very easily raised 
from new seed, but old seeds are very disap¬ 
pointing, and it is more satisfactory to save 
the seeds at home. One or two pods will 
produce as many plants as most people will 
want to grow. If there is any difficulty in 
obtaining seeds, place a plant or two in a 
freely ventilated frame, or stand outside at 
this season, and there will lx* a better chance 
of seed-pods forming. There are several 
varieties, all of which are worth growing. 
There is a bright pink or mauve variety, 
which is very effective in a mass. Do not 
trouble to save old plants to grow on for 
the second year, as young plants are much 
better, and can 1x5 grown as large as required 
in one season, blooming continuously as they 
grow. Sow seeds of Cyclamens, Cinerarias, 
and Primulas for late blooming. Calceo¬ 
larias also may lx 1 ; sown now. Azaleas 
which have finished and partially ripened 
their growth may lx) placed outside in 
a sheltered place. If the wind is trouble¬ 
some, partially plunge the pots in ashes, and 
see that nothing suffers from want of water. 
The syringe also may be used daily. Weak 
liquid-manure once a week will lx? useful in 
plumping up the buds. Shift oil Tree-Car¬ 
nations, using good sound loam and a little 
old cow-manOre and leaf-mould. The plants 
must be watered carefully. 

An extemporised stove.— It is very desir¬ 
able where many plants are required for 
table decoration in autumn and early winter 
to give up a small span-roofed house or pit 
to this purpose where Crotons, Dracaenas, 
and other fine-foliaged flowering and berry- 
bearing plants can have just the treatment 
they require to develop them properly. The 
shading may bs tiffany or any other fabric 
tacked on frames made with deal spars or 
Bamboo-canes lashed together, and which can 
easily be placed over the plants which re¬ 
quire shade, leaving those which require sun¬ 
shine to give colour exposed. Of course, in 
hot, roasting weather in July and August 
even Crotons will be better with a bit of 
shade in the middle of the day, and this can 
easily be arranged for when necessary. The 
advantages of a small, low, close house to 
bring on these later plants will be very 
great, and if there is room, cuttings of vari¬ 
ous things which may be required may lx* 
rooted, and afterwards potted on and estab 
lished in small pots singly.' One corner may 
be given up to the raising of Ferns from 
spores. 

Improving the fernery.— Ferns are always 
very interesting, but it is an improvement 
when a bright leaved Croton or other fine- 
foliaged plant can be dropped in among the 
graceful fronds. An Orchid in bloom or any 
other really choice plant in flower which may 
for a time require shade will last much longer 
and give more pleasure in association with 
the beautiful greenery of Ferns than if left 
in its usual place. This may be termed a 
modest way of making the best of things 
without injury to anything, and, of course. 
Ferns and Palms associate well together. For 
the next two months Ferns will be better 
without fire-heat. Fire at this season only 



Jolt 13, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


259 


encourages the breeding of injurious inserts, 
and adds to the labour. 

Late Winery.— When the Grain's are 
thinned is the time to feed with quick-acting 
stimulants. The chemist now makes manures 
suitable for each crop, and those who can¬ 
not trust their own knowledge may safely 
try the specially prepared manures for Vine's 
and other things, and use them freely, both 
as top dressings and in water as liquid-manure 
during the next two nr three months. The 
inside borders must be watered freely, but 
the outside borders may bo dressed with 
manure, and let the rain deal with them 
unless the weather should become bright and 

, ■ , T h< ’P> lf Bie roots lie near the surface, 
which is the best place for them, mulch and 
water will be necessary. Sublalerals must 
be kept in check now, as they are of no use 
to Vines provided amply with good mnin 
foliage ; in fact, they arc worse than useless, 
as they crow d the leaves which arc doing the 
Ventilation must Is- studied nuw. A 
stuffy atmosphere will bring on mildew and 
take tho energy from the action of the foli 
ago, and fit the leaves for the red-spider. 
Cucumbers.— Tliere will, probably, be 

plenty of Cucumbers in the frames now, so 
that very shortly one of tho enrly 
houses may be cleared and prepared 
lor the autumn and winter crop. In the 
meantime, seeds of a suitable kind should 
“ b * con,in K on when the house is 

ivady. The end of August or beginning of 
.September is a good time (o plant, and let 
the plants come on quietly, and be ready to 
give a supply when the plants in the frames 
tad. Have tlie house thoroughly cleaned 
the walls whitewashed with lime and sulphur, 
and the paint washed with snap and water, 
and, if fresh paint is necessary, have it. done 
now. whilst the wood is dry. Cay in a stock 
of good loam to plant in. 

Plants round the house. -To keep the 
plants in window boxes and other stands in 
good condition they should have a little 
stimulant in the water occasionally now. 
Oine a week will suffice, and one ounce of 
fertiliser to the gallon of water should not 
be exceeded. The court-yard may be made 
very bright with plants in tubs. Baskets 
may hang from the balcony, and the walls 
may have some decoration, if required. 

Outdoor garden —The layering of Carna¬ 
tions will soon be in operation. Surround 
the plants with an inch or two of gritty com¬ 
post, into which the layers will be pegged 
and as roots will not form without moisture’ 
water should be supplied during dry weather] 

I he shoots from the centre of the plants may 
he taken off and used as cuttings, if many 
plants are wanted. Follow up the budding 
of fandard Briers whilst the hark works 
freely. Those amateurs who wish to have 
more than one kind of Rose on eacli head 
should select the buds from plants of similar 
habit of growth. Keep the seed-pods picked 
from .Sweet Peas if continuous blooming is 
desired, but when the flowers are cut freely 
seeds are not so likely to form. Hitherto 
there has not been much watering to do. as 
water has fallen from the clouds freely, but 
a mulch of short manure has been useful to 
many things where fine blooms are looked 
for. Loose growing plants in Jiede should be 
pegged down. 

Fruit garden. —After the dripping June we 
are nearly sure to have a dry July, and water 
may be required by trees growing close to hot 
south walls, and the hose or garden engine 
should be used freely in the afternoon If 
more water were used in this way there would 
be less trouble with insects. Continue 
selecting and layering Strawberry plants for 
forcing and other purposes. The plants that 
were taken first for early forcing should be 
potted into 6-inch pots 'in good' loam, suf¬ 
ficiently enriched with bone-meal and old 
manure. Pot firmly, and stand the plants in 
an open situation on coal-ashes or boards, to 
keep out worms. Keep all runners cut away. 
Black Jamaica and other winter-fruiting 
Pines should be ready now for the fruiting 
pots. A little bottom-heat will encourage the 
new roots. If a leaf or two is removed from 
the base the ball may be placed a little 
deeper in the new pot', to encourage 
surface roots to break o'-*'"**— '■ 


stem. Reduce the breast wood on Apricots 
and Plums, laying in young shoots where 
there is room. Pears and Apples may wait a 
little longer. The leading shoots of young 
wall and olher trained trims should be tied 
or nailed in. The spraying of Plum ami 
other fruit-trees should receive attention. 
Thin tho young shots of Figs on walls and 
open-air Vines. 

Vegetable garden. T ill'll ips should be 
sown freely now. White Snowball. Witch's 
Red Globe, Orange Jelly, and Chirk Castle 
Black Slone are h 11 useful, hut the red and 
the black are the hardiest, and keep lx-sl. 
Plant Endive largely for autumn use, and 
sow more seeds. The Green-curled is the 
hardiest variety. Thin Chicory to 8 inches 
or 9 inches. A few rows of ibis plant should 
lie grown for forcing for winter salads. 
Rampion has a white root, like a Turnip 
Radish. Where much salading is required, 
it may come in useful. The seeds are very 
small, and should be sown thinly and very 
lightly covered, afterwards thinned to! inches 
or 5 inches apart. The main crop of Celery 
should be planted at once. Blend the manure 
with tho soil at the bottom of the trench, 
shade with branches or something of the 
kind for a few days, and keep the roots moist. 
Dust early crops with soot lo keep off the 
Celery-fly. Make a good sowing of Lettuces 
now to include hardy kinds. Plant Veitch’s 
Self-Protecting Broccoli, and the Walehercn 
also. Both of these are very useful. We 
have had Veitch’s very good till after Christ 
mas. sheltered in a pit; and, of course, the 
Autumn Giant Cauliflower is useful, though 
sometimes larger than most people like. 

E. Hobday. 


, to encourage fresh 


THE COMING WEEK'S WORK. 

Extracts from a Carden Diary. 

July loth. -Cleared off earliest Peas and 
prepared trenches for Celery. Mulched and 
(logged down growing shoots of Vegetable 
Marrows and Ridge Cucumbers. Dressed 
with quicklime, as a preventive to clubbing, 
ground intended for young Cabbage seeds 
later. Planted thickly young Cabbages to 
form Coleworts in winter. Made a last sow¬ 
ing of dwarf French or Kidney Beans. 
Planted Autumn Giant and Walcheren Cauli¬ 
flowers—tlie latter on a north border. 

July 16th .— Made a sowing of Prickly 
Spinach for autumn use. Shall sow later for 
winter and spring supply. Occasionally a 
plant or two from this sowing may bolt, but 
these can bo pulled without materially re¬ 
ducing the yield of good leaves suitable for 
picking. We ary still selecting a few runners 
from the best kinds of Strawberries, although 
the plants required for forcing have been 
secured, and will soon be transferred to tlie 
fruiting pofs, which are 6 inches in diameter. 

July 17 th .—Commenced layering Carna¬ 
tions. A couple of inches of gritty soil have 
been placed round each plant, into which the 
layers will be pegged. Water will be given 
when required, as roots will not form in very 
dry soil. Hedge clipping is done in showery 
weather; this also includes dwarf Box 
edgings. Shifted on voting Ferns of various 
kinds. A small house has been given up to 
these, where they can be shaded and kept 
close. 

July 18th.— Finished cutting down show 
and fancy Pelargoniums, putting in the ends 
of the shoots as cuttings. Potted up a few 
of the East Lothian Slocks for flowering in 
pots in the conservatory, where fragrance was 
required. They will be brought on in a cold- 
pit with abundance of ventilation. Gave a 
last 6hift to winter-flowering Carnations 
These require good soil, plenty of pot room, 
and careful watering. 

July 19th.— Grape Vines on south wall 
have been gone over, and the growths 
stopped, thinned, and regulated. Figs also 
have received attention, hilt no stopping is 
done, as only one crop will be obtained out¬ 
side. Brown Turkey is chiefly grown, and 
the trees arc carrying a good crop. A mulch 
of manure has been placed on the surface of 
the border, and water will be given if verv 
dry. Made a large sowing of Brown Cos and 
All the Year Round Lettuces. 

July 20th .—Re-arranged conservatory, to 
make room for a few plants from stove. 


Filled small baskets with young plants of 
Begonia Gloire de Lorraine for winter bloom- 
ing. Pricked olT herbaceous Calceolarias 
into boxes, to get strong. They will be kept 
in cool, shady frame. Commenced suinmcr- 
pruning of fruit-trees on walls and espaliers. 
Bush-trees will also be thinned a little where 
the shoots are crowded. Removed all de¬ 
formed fruits from Pear-trees on walls. 


BEES. 

Bees building comb in row of Peas -I have 
four hives of bees in kitchen Harden, and the other 
day I took a very line swarm in the middle of a 
good row of high Peas. To my surprise, these pieces 
of comb I send were attached to the Pea-sticks. I»n 
not you think the bees must have been there for two 
or three days? Is it not unusual for bees to stay in 
such an open place so long?—J. J. S. 

[A swarm will sometimes, if not speedily 
hived, form comb in the midst of the cluster. 
Before a swarm leaves the parent hive, every 
bee fills itself with honey, that wax mav lie 
elaborated for the formation of cells with as 
little loss of time as possible after entering 
into possession of the new home. The middle 
of a fine row of Peas affording the swarm 
good shelter, would encourage the bees to 
commence comb-building as soon a»s wax 
could be formed, especially if the day were 
warm and bright. The pieces of comb sent 
could easily have been constructed within 
twenty-four hours by a strong swarm, the 
probability is, therefore, that the bees left 
their old home the day previous to your dis¬ 
covering them among "the Peas. Of course, 
the comb-building operations cpuld not, 
have continued much longer upon so unsuit¬ 
able a site.—S. S. G.] 

LAW AND CUSTOM. 


DAMAGE BY GAME, RABBITS, ETC., TO 
GARDENS. 

Many owners of allotments and oilier gardens 
have had cause to complain of damage done 
by hares and rabbits to the crops they have 
been raising, and questions are often asked 
as to the remedies an allotment or garden 
occupier has in respect of this damage. Some 
tenants have an idea that they possess a right 
of action against the neighbours from whose 
land the game strays into their gardens. Such, 
however, is not the case. The only instance 
(apart from express agreement to keep down 
the game) in which action can be taken suc¬ 
cessfully against the owner of game is in the 
ca.so of email holdings forming part of an 
estate over which the owner reserves to him¬ 
self and his nominees the right of sporting. 
That owner can be made liable in damages for 
overstocking his land with game to such an 
extent as to cause injury to the crops being 
raised by tenants. 

The occupier of any land is himself entitled 
to kill all hares and rabbits found thereon. 
This is provided by the Ground Game Act of 
1880 ; and the right is one of which he cannot 
divest himself, even if lie wishes to do so, be¬ 
cause it is a right inseparable from the occu¬ 
pation. An owner may reserve sporting- 
rights, and may even pay' the tenant a sum of 
money not to interfere with the hares and 
rabbits ; but such an undertaking would be 
void, and there is nothing to prevent the 
tenant from pocketing the money and still 
killing the ground game, except, fraud can be 
proved in regard to the taking of the money— 
a very difficult matter. That, however, is the 
legal position. The occupier (“ every 
occupier of land,” says the Act) is to kill and 
take ground game only by himself and by 
persons duly authorised by him in writing. 
He himself and one other person are the only 
persons entitled to use firearms for the pur¬ 
pose. No person is to have authority to kill 
or take (apart from firearm questions alto¬ 
gether) ground game except resident mem¬ 
bers of the occupiers household, persons in 
his regular service, and one other person 
specially employed for the puipose. Any 
person claiming authority from the occupier 
must produce that authority in writing when 
called upon to do sdJ i An occupier does not 
require a game licence to kill harps, nor a 
dealer’s licence to enable hina4o sell them 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



260 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


July 13 , 1907 


when killed; but. ho requires a gun licence. 
The right to discharge firearms (except within 
the curtilage of a house) is confined to their 
use for scaring birds or destroying vermin. 

The best remedy, therefore, for an occupier 
of garden or allotment land who is plagued 
by rabbits and hares is to capture them as 
fast as they make their appearance. He must 
not 6et epring traps, but may use wire- 
nooses. Barrister. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

Questions.— Queries and answer* are inserted (n 
Gardening fr;e of charge if correspondents follow these 
rules: All communications should be clearly and concisely 
•written on one side of the paper only, arid addressed to 
the Editor o/ Gardening, • 17, Fumival-street, Holborn, 
London, E.C. Letters on business should be sent to the 
Publisher. The name and address of the sender arc 
required in rddition to any designation he may desire to 
be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, 
each should be on a separate piece of paper, and not more 
than three queries should be sent at a time. Correspon¬ 
dents should bear in mind that, as Gardening has to be 
sent to press some time in advance of date, queries cannot 
always be replied to in the issue, immediately following 
the receipt oj their communication. We do not reply to 
queries by post. 

Naming fruit .—Readers who desire our help in 
naming fruit should bear in mind that several specimens 
in different stages of colour and size of the same kind 
greatly assist in its determination. We have received from 
several correspondents single specimens of fruits for 
naming, these in many cases bciiv/ unripe and other¬ 
wise poor. The differences between varieties of fruits are, 
in many cases so trifling that, it is necessary that three 
specimens of each kind should be sent. We can uruiertake 
to name only four varieties at a time , and these only when 
the above directions arc observed. 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

Rose buds eaten by insects (Lnunt).— We be¬ 
lieve the Rose-buds have been catln by one of the 
Kosc-bert-lcs or, possibly, ants. You cannot do better 
than take a lantern lute at night and make an ex¬ 
amination. Ir beetles arc found, lay a cloth beneath 
the trees or bushes and give the latter a vigorous 
shake, when the insects will drop olT. If ants, sink 
some jars in the ground and half fill with thin 
syrup. The edge of the jars should bo level with the 
ground. 

Leaves turning yellow [A. Stone).— We have 
carefully examined the loaves you send, and can find 
nothing to account for their turning yellow. They 
look to us exactly as if the plants had been exposed 
to the cold winds we have had of late, and the change 
from the shelter of a greenhouse to these conditions 
has caused them to turn yellow. As, however, your 
plants behave in the same way every year, there 
must he some other cause, and we can only suggest 
that it may be the water, as, judging by your 
letters, no exception can apparently be taken to the 
soil or treatment, as far as we can learn. 

Rose leaves curling (.A. /’. and Tent Lodge).— 
There are several causes for the curling of the leaves. 
It may be due to maggots having attacked them, 
the action of the insect causing the curling. Green¬ 
fly or cold, cutting winds may also cause it, while 
drought at the roots is also often responsible for it. 
Syringe your trees w ith Quassia extract to which has 
be added some soft-soap, and if you suspect that 
Ihe Roses are dry at the roots, give thorn a good 
soaking of water and also some manure water, at the 
same time mulching with some*well-decayed manure. 
Encourage as much as you cau a new and robust 
growth. 

Roses with green centres (//. K. Greyer).— 
This freak of nature is peculiar to a few kinds, 
such as Mile. Annie Wood, and where this malforma¬ 
tion constantly recurs upon the same plants we 
should advise you to destroy them and plant popular 
varieties that are free from such a fault. But whilst 
these green centres are peculiar to certain varieties, 
they may, nevertheless, be brought about owing to a 
check of some kind which the plants receive—sueh, 
for instance, as spring frosts or overdoses of manure. 
We fear there will be many malformed buds this 
season owing to tlie late frosts and cold,. cutting 
winds. Where possible to detect these green-centred 
buds, it is a good plan to remove them early and 
encourage the smaller buds, which may be more 
perfect. 

Pseonies not flowering (.Crocus). — If we may 

judge from the buds and stems you send, these are 
but the outcome of extreme weakness, and the plants 
may yet take some time to recover. Moreover, the 
long continued drought of IMG was the reverse of 
helpful to such things, and the summer growth not 
being good, no strong crown-buds could result, and 
upon these latter depends a good flowering the fol¬ 
lowing year. The time of replanting is the best pos¬ 
sible you could select, and if the plants were divided 
up moderately and given very rich and deep soil, 
you need have but little fear as to results. If you 
did the work iri this way, you can now assist, the 
plants to make more iupid progress by feeding 
them liberally with manure water twice or thrice 
each week. It is not. possible to overdo them in this 
respect, and you may deluge them from time to time 
with clean water in flic event of dry wt at her. If 
the buds you send are from the recently moved 
plants, it i' merely a question of waiting for the 
plants to gain strength. In the event of your making 
any further plantings, do riot hesitate to break up 
the old clump.- quite freely, for it is a mistake to 
attempt to transplant P iconics in big clumps. 

Dowingia (Clintonia) pulchella (E. It. Tidy).— 
Of the many annuals that are employed for the 
summer decoration gardens, fw are prettier 

ogle 


than the subject of our present notice. It is of 
dwarf habit, rarely exceeding 6 inches in height, 
thus rendering it suitable for edging small beds or 
borders. When covered with its bright blue flowers 
it presents an extremely attractive appearance. 
Strange to say, this plant appears to be but little 
grown. Perhaps want of generous culture has 
brought it into discredit, a fate which has overtaken 
more than one good annual. Where annuals are 
grown as pot plants Dowingia pulchella should be 
grown, as it forms an excellent subject for that 
purpose by reason of its dwarf, compact habit and 
free-flowering nature. Few think proper to bestow 
upon annuals the care which they merit, and with¬ 
out which they yield but a poor show of bloom, and 
last but a short time in flower. Dowingia pulchella 
likes a free, well enriched soil and an open situation. 
The seed should be sown in March and April in the 
open ground and some two months earlier for pot 
culture. Each plant should be allowed quite 8 inches 
for development, and those from the last sowing 
should be well mulched and watered in hot weather. 
No; Impatieus Holsti is not hardy. 

TREES AND SHRUBS. 

Philadelphia (Z. M.).— This is usually increased 
by layers and suckers and division of the plants in 
the spring. 

Pruning the Laburnum (T. M. C.).— The com- . 
mon Laburnum trained to a wall should be pruned 
by thinning out any of the weak, overcrowded shoots, j 
and shortening back the very strong ones. This | 
should be done immediately after flowering. 

Increasing the Arbutus ( T. M. C.).— Apart 
from seeds, the Arbutus is by no means an easy sub¬ 
ject to propagate, for although cuttings put into sandy 
peat and placed in a frame kept close and shaded I 
may be rooted, they take a very long time, and 
many of them die. The Arbutus may be propagated 
by layering, but even then it will be two or three 
years before the layers can be separated from the 
parent plant. Layering rnay be carried out at any 
season. In nurseries the varieties are usually in¬ 
creased by grafting on to seedling stocks of the 
common kind. This is a delicate operation, which 
must he done under glass. Seed should be sown in i 
well-drained pans in a mixture of loam, prat, and 1 
sand, and given the protection of a cold-frurne. 

FRUIT. 

Raspberries failing (Marie Kilbcr). - Your 
Raspberries appear to us to have reverted to a wild 
condition, judging by the specimen spruys before us, 
and we, therefore, advise you to destroy them and 
form a new plantation in the autumn. Two excellent 
red varieties are Norwich Wonder and Superlative. 
Yellow Antwerp is the best variety of that particular 
colour. 

Peach-leaves injured (J. Baker).— The Poach 
leaves sent are affected with the shot-hole fungus; 
but the damage to the edges appears to be the re¬ 
sult of scalding. This would most likely occur in 
the morning or afternoon of some very bright day. 
The beads of water which would he hanging round 
the edges of the leaves would then act as lenses, 
and, as a result of the sun shining directly on them, 
scalding would ensue, and the damage become ap¬ 
parent in the course of a few days by the portions of 
the leaves so affected turning brown. The remedy in 
either case is a very simple one, and consists in 
syringing and ventilating earlier than usual when the 
day promisee to be an unusually bright one and to 
defer closing in the afternoon somewhat later than 
usual. With regard to the shot-hole fungus, spray . 
the trees before the buds push into growth with | 
Bordeaux mixture, and be careful to gather up the i 
leaves as they fall from the trees in the autumn 1 
and hum them. Wc do not think the rain-water has 
had any harmful effect, but should imagine the 
reverse to be the case. With regard to your method 
of watering, we would draw your attention to the 
fact that 50 gallons divided amongst eight trees is 
a very insignificant quantity indeed for any one 
Peach-tree in good health and carrying a full crop 
of fruit. Provided the border is a properly con¬ 
structed one, you would do well to afford the roots 
a more liberal supply than that you name, even if 
it be at less frequent intervals. We give as much as 
50 gallons to one tree alone about every month or six 
weeks, or as often as occasion may demand. Again, 
if the liquid-mumire you are in the habit of using 
is of full strength, you are applying it in far too 
strong doses, and should use no more than will make 
the water the colour of weak tea. Three gallons of 
rich liquid to 3(5 gallons or 40 gallons of clear water 
are amply strong enough for fruit-trees in full 
growth. 

VEGETABLES. 

Sawdust manure (Yrak).— We should hesitate to 
use the sawdust manure, as it promotes by its de¬ 
composition the production of fungus. If you can 
separate the manure from the sawdust, by ail means 
do so. You might try some of the sawdust manure 
on a separate piece of ground and note the result. 


SHORT REPLIES. 

Hilltop.— Had you sent some of the leaves we could 
have then formed a better opinion. From your de¬ 
scription. we fear that the trees are dry at the roots, 
while you are evidently overcropping them. Are 
there any signs »»f red-spider? Please send some of 
the foliage. Mrs. (’. The plants were bought 
from M. ivpjnicristc, Californio, Nice, 

France, who will give you the information sought. 
It will be better to defer planting until autumn, when 

storks "f the plants will he movable-IF. F. C. 

Scholtler Transplant to a box or place singly in 
pot standing in a frame and keeping close till growth 
begins. When well rooted you ran plant out in the 

open garden.- D. Warier/.— The Foxglove blooms 

you speak of are only malformations. We have had 

several specimens sent us.- Improver.— Lay some 

good rotten-manure along both sides of the row, and 


if the weather is dry give frequent soakingB of water. 
Do not allow any seed-pods to form, as, if this hap¬ 
pens, the blooming will be considerably lessened. 3, 
The white-fly is known as Aleurodes vaporariorum. 
You will And an article dealing with this pest in our 
issue of January 6th of this year, p. 616. A copy of 
this can be had from the publisher, post free, for ljd. 

- R. II. C.—l, Very difficult to assign a reason for 

the failure of the Kidney Beans, as you give ur no 
information whatever that might help us to enlighten 
you. 2, Please send a specimen of the Pansy. It is 
very probable that wlreworm is the cause. You 
planted them out too late. This ought to have been 
done in March or at latest early April, so that they 

might be established.-Barbara Joubcrt de la Ferte. 

—The Henry Bennet referred to as the raiser of Rose 
Viscountess Folkestone used many years ago to be a 

nurseryman and Rose-grower at Shepperton.- S. 

Normanton.—l, Write to the Secretary, Royal Horti¬ 
cultural Society. Vincent - square. Westminster, 
London, S.W r . 2, Write to the Director of the Royal 

Gardens, Kew r , Surrey.- Exhibitor.— You ought to 

procure a copy of “ Stove and Greenhouse Plants," 

which can be bad from this office.- T. F. Finch.— 

You cannot do better than purchase a copy of “ The 
English Flower Garden.” J. Murray, Albcmarlc- 

fitreet, W.- E. Phillips.— You should get a copy of 

“ The English Flower Garden," in which you will 
find nearly all the Primulas you refer to dealt with. 

- A. Sandell.—l, It is of no use to pour the boiling 

water into the runs of the ants; you must find the 
nest and pour the boiling water into this. 2, As you 
say. it is probably mice, and the only thing you can 

do is to set traps.- Mrs. V. K. Bowdoin.— Any Rose- 

nurseryman cau supply you with plants of Rosa sinica 
Anemone. See reply above to " Mrs. C. C.," re this 

Rose.- A. C.— You will find an article on “ Growing 

Gardenias" in our issue of April 14th, 1906, p. 86, a 
copy of which can he had from the publisher, post 
free, for Ijd. Be "Moss in lawn," see our issue of 
January 19th of this year, p. 650. Ignora.— Evi¬ 
dently due to exhaustion of the soil. The plant should 
he repotted if grown in a pot. or, if planted out, 
then adil fresh soil. Or it may he that it has been 

overwatered or grown too cool.- Sandhutton.— 

There is nothing whatever wrong with your Toma¬ 
toes. The hollow core is characteristic of many varie¬ 
ties.- Jan Spek.—W rite to Messrs. W. Paul and 

Sons. The Nurseries, Waltham Cross, London, N., who 

I publish the “ Rose Garden."- II. E. IF. —Your 

' Apple-trees have been attacked by American blight. 

I You should dress them with neat’s-foot oil. flee note in 

our issue of January 19th, 1907.- Fietole. — Please 

! send a piece of the Mesembryanthemum to which you 
refer. You have evidently given the Petunias an 

| overdose of artificial manure.- Adelaide M. Pym.— 

The only way is to advertise your wants in one of 
the gardening papers. If you want a really good 
' eardener, you must be prepared to pay him well. 
You are hardly likely to find a really good man who 
will be prepared to take the position of odd man, 
I which is what your description practically amounts 
to. You might find some young man, who, under 
your teaching, would have a chance of improving 

himself.- Clifton.— Please send a complete shoot, 

and then we will do our hest to help you.- Mrs. 

Allison. —We do not know who exhibited the variety 
of Cineraria to which you refer. 


NAMES OF PLANTS AND FRUITS. 


Names of plants.— J. //.-The flowering plant 
with narrow leaves is Sisymbrium paonosum. The 
leaf we cannot name. In future, please number your 
specimens. Bucks.— 1, Alyssuin Wiersbecki, prob¬ 
ably; specimen much withered; 2, Iberia semper- 

virens; 3. Primus Pissardi.- B. II. 0. S. —Mesem- 

hryantheinum deltoides. It, in common with most 
members of this extensive genus, is a native of South 
Africa. From their succulent nature these plants are 
able to hold their own in dry and exposed spots.- — 
T. Clarke.— Cyrtanthus Mackeni, a native of South 

Africa.- G. Morison.— The Manna Ash (Fraxinus 

Ornus).- Kenwigs.— St. Bernard’s Lily (Anthericum 

Liliago).- Mrs. E. II. Cleghorn.— Please send more 

complete specimen.- Ranunculus.— 1,The variegated 

ground Ivy(Nepeta Glechoma variegata); 2,Evidently 
a Sunflower, must have proper specimen ; 8, Sidalcea 
sp., send in flower; 4. Phalaris Arundinncea varie- 

I gata.- M. P. Carmody.—l, Lonicera Ledcbouri: 2. 

I the Orange Ball-tree (Buddleia globosa); 3, Lonicera 

tatarica.- Patsey. — Cotyledon Umbilicus.- Mrs. 

! Booth.— Deutzia crenata.- G. A. .4.-1. Pale form of 

Kalmia latifolia; 2, Helichrysum (Ozothamnus) ros- 

marinifolium.- Ins.— 1. Iris germanica vars.; 2, 

Gillenia trifoliata; 3, Thalictrum aquilegifolium; 4. 

Saxifraga Geum.- Mrs. Mack.— Clematis J. Gould 

I Veitch.- E. T. —Sidalcea malvieflora.- E. N. 

I Grays.— 2. Jnsm ilium graeile; 3, probably Eugenia 
orbicularis; should like to see again. Please read our 
rules as to the number of plants we undertake to 

name in each week.- G. H. R.— Sisyrinchium 

striatum.- Mina S. Elgin.— Calochortus pulcbellus. 

- IF. C. Morgan.—I, Limnanthes Dmiglasi; 2, 

Deutzia crenata fl.-pi.; 3, fiscal Ionia macrantha; 4, 

Rerberis; must fee in flower.- C. — l, Escallonia 

macrantha: 2, Griselinia littoralis: 3. Skimmia 
japouiea; 4. BerLteris Thunbergi; 5. Pyrus Hosti: 6. 
the White Beam (Pyrus Aria). Kindly in future read 

our rules as to naming plants.- E. IF.—1 and 2. We 

| do not undertake to name Roses; 3. Campanula 
glomerata: 4. Veronica spicata; 5, Thalictrum flavuni; 
u. Digitalis Iutea. Please read our rules as to naming 
j plants. 


The Manchester Horticultural and Botani¬ 
cal Society, having leased their gardens for a terra 
of years to an amusement company, called “The 
i White City." have arranged with them to carry on 
I the work of their flower shows. The annual Rose 
Show will he held on July 23rd. and exhibitors will 
find in " The White C,ity " ball room and annexe a 
I splendid place to stage their exhibits. Already a 
I large number of entries has been received. 


D 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


No. 1,480—Vot. XXIX. 


Founded by W. Robinson, Author of “ The English Flower Garden 


JULY 20, 1907. 


INDEX. 


Apple-tree* in bad 

health.270 

Apple-ireea not fruiting 270 
Apples for sunny wall . 270 

Apricots on west wall.. 270 
Bay-trees in poor condi¬ 
tion .271 

Books .273 

Cabbage, notes on .. 272 
Carman, flowering . 205 

Carrot-maggot, the .. 274 
Chrysanthemums .. 264 
Chrysanthemums, bush 264 
Chrysanthemums for 
home decoration — 
points to watch .. 264 
Chrysanthemums on 

walls .264 

Chrymauthemums — sea¬ 
sonable notes .. 264 


Clematis.Iackmanl alha, 
i-hunge of flower in .. 263 
Conservatory' .. .. 272 

Cucumbers in frames .. 272 
Daffodil in 1907, the .. 261 
Ermine-moth, the .. 2*4 

Ferns .269 

Ferns for elevated posi¬ 
tions .269 

Ferns in the house .. 273 

Fruit .269 

Fruit garden .. .. 273 

Garden diary, extracts 

from a.273 

Garden pestsand friends 264 
Garden, pond or bog .. 263 
Garden work .. .. 272 

Indoor plants .. 265 

Law und custom.. .. 273 

Leaves, smut on .. 274 


Leeks .272 

lettuces in spring .. 272 
Melons in frames, late.. 272 
Mock Orange (1’hilndel- 
phus coronurius) .. 271 
Narcissus Seraphim .. 262 
Onion mildew .. .. 272 

Outdoor garden .. .. 273 

Outdoor plants .. 261 

Pieony Progress .. 263 

Peach-leaves blistered . 274 
Peach-trees, aphides on 274 
Peach-trees, red-spider 
on .. .. .. .. 270 

Peaches, gathering .. 272 
Pear-trees, overgrown.. 274 
Pelargoniums for winter 
flowering .. 274 

Perennials and biennials 
from Heed .. .. 274 


Pigeons, food for .. 273 
Pine culture, an item in 272 
Pinks, treatment of .. 262 
Plants and flowers .. 261 
Plum-trees, aphides on 264 
Poppies, Shirley, the .. 265 
Potato crop, the .. 272 
Rhododendrons, effects 
of soil on .. 271 

Room and window .. 265 
Rose A mod is, Boursnull 268 
Rose u Par fuu i do I'll ay 266 
Rose Comte sac de N ada- 
illaefailing to develop 266 
Rose Crimson Rambler, 
mildew on .. .. 268 

Rose England's Glory, 
Hybrid Tea ..268 

Rose Le Progrfes.. 266 

Roil Paul Lode.. .. 268 


Rose Wlchuraiftna, a 
sweet-scented .. .. 268 

Hose Xavier Olibo .. 263 

Roses .266 

Roses, budding .. .. 266 

Roses, dark coloured .. 268 
Roses, mildew on .. 265 
Roses, single and semi¬ 
double .26? 

Roses, Tea, at an exhi¬ 
bition. staging .. 274 
Roses, Tea, for exhibi¬ 
tion .274 

Rue Spleen wort (Asple- 
nium Ruta-muraria), 

the Wall.269 

Sophora vlciifolia .. 271 
Spinea confusa .. .. 271 

Spineas, treatment of.. 274 
Strawberries failing .. 269 


Straw be: ries for forc¬ 
ing, potting .. 273 

Styrax Obassia .. .. 271 

Sweet Williams .. .. 263 

Sycamore - tree, gall- 

mites on.264 

Tree-stem, decaying . \ 274 
Trees and shrubs .. 2,1 
Tulips, May flowering.. 274 
United Horticultural 
Benefit and Provident 

Society.273 

Vegetable garden .. 273 
Vegetable Marrow jam 274 
Vegetables .. ..272 

Vinery, bluebottle flies 

* n .. 

Vines, value of the main 
leaves to .. .. 273 

Week's work, the coming 273 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 


THE DAFFODIL IN 1907. 

It is quite an accepted fact in the art of 
flower culture that there is no saying “thus 
far and no further,” and wore old Charles 
Cotton, the friend of Isaak Walton, of “Com- 
pleat Angler” fame, but alive, lie would, I 
feel sure, hasten to qualify, as far as it con¬ 
cerns florists, his statement that 
’Tis contentation that alone 
Can make us happy here below. 

Now, as far as I am aware, florists are a 
happy race of individuals, but there never 
was one who was quite satisfied—at least, I 
have never met either him or her. Whether 
it ie the Auricula or the Rose, the Carnation 
or the Sweet Pea, the Dahlia or the Daffodil 
in whose development one is interested, 
there are certain to lie some special aims for 
which all are working, and which are yet 
unrealised. As one who is closely following 
the fortunes of the Daffodil, and making 
study of its particular lines of beauty, I can 
safely cay that this is the case, and as the 
Editor has courteously invited me to review 
in his columns my impressions of the most 
striking novelties that have made their ap¬ 
pearance during the season that has passed, 
it is my intention before proceeding to state, 
in as brief a manner as possible, what are 
the chief aims of those who are trying to im¬ 
prove the Daffodil. I will begin with the 
Ajax or Trumpet Daffodils. In this section 
raisers are successfully striving to produce 
a race of white flowers superior in purity, 
size, and substance to Mine, de Graaff. Seed¬ 
lings that possess a very drooping habit are 
not looked upon with favour. Though bi- 
colors do not claim so much attention as 
concolor varieties, they are not being over¬ 
looked, and well-balanced flowers, free from 
any reproach of streakiness in the perianth, 
are being sought for. After being neglected 
for years, the self-yellow section is now re¬ 
ceiving more attention. As any exhibitor is 
fully aware, it is no easy task to put up a 
stand of nine distinct varieties, which is the 
requisite number in the open classes for self- 
yellow Ajax at the Midland Daffodil Society’s 
exhibition, and if he had to put up twelve "he 
would certainly find himself in a quandary, 
unlese he had a long purse and was thus eii 
abled to purchase some of the more expensive 
sorts. Many yellows are indifferent in con¬ 
stitution, and prove difficult to manage on 
some soils. This is notably the case with 
Henry Irving, obvallaris, Golden Spur, 
niaxinuw, and King Alfred. By using Em¬ 
peror as seed parent and King” Alfred and 
Monarch as pollen parents, a race of rich 
yellow Ajax is being produced that is almost 
certain to be an advance both in the direc¬ 
tion of form, colour, and constitution. In 
the poetieus section a coloured wye and 

good breadth of petal fere tUeVhii fidlsldetata. 


a WfHilv coloured rye i 
lAre tUeVliu f^dladeVE 


Flowers that are badly proportioned and 
have weak, floppy perianth segments are to 
be avoided. The Engleheartii section ad¬ 
vances in popularity each year, and will 
eventually quite displace the ordinary varie¬ 
ties belonging to the Parvi group. In the in- 
comparabilis section Mr. Cicefield has raised 
some giant yellow forms that constitute a 
great advance. These were produced by 
crossing Princess Mary with some of the 
larger Ajax varieties. Here raisers have in 
view the production of seedlings that will 
excel such standard sorts as Autocrat and 
Gloria Mundi, a task that undoubtedly pre¬ 
sents some difficulty. The Leedsii section has 
received many fine additions, and the range 
of colouring has been extended. Flowers of 
greater purity and substance than White 
Queen are now making their appearance, and 
will, undoubtedly, appeal to the general 
public almost more than any other varieties 
of Narcissi. In the Johnstoni section we are 
getting some lovely flowers, from palest 
lemon-white to softest yellow in colouring, 
and very chaste. It does not appear to be 
generally known that many of these triandrus 
hybrids will bloom in four years from seed. 
The best I have as yet seen were produced 
from Mine, de Graaff x triandrus. Though 
at present little known, the Poetaz section is 
almost certain to increase in popularity, and 
some new forms seen at Truro show were 
most attractive. They were raised from inter¬ 
crossing the poetieus varieties and the Poly¬ 
anthus (Tazetta) varieties. 

Dealing with the Trumpet Daffodils first, 
the most striking advances among the self- 
yellow Ajax were seen in Michael, raised by 
Mr. P. D. Williams, and Lord Medway, 
raised by the Rev. G. P. Hay don. The for¬ 
mer took the first prize at. Truro for the 
finest blooin of English-raised Magni-coronati 
not in commerce. This is a perfectly sym¬ 
metrical flower, with wide, overlapping seg¬ 
ments of rich, clear yellow, and a trumpet of 
King Alfred shape. Emperor x King Alfred 
was stated to he the parentage of this ex¬ 
quisite flower. Lord Medway was exhibited 
in London for the first time this spring, but 
it had previously made its debut at the Kent, 
Surrey, and Sussex Daffodil Society’s show 
at Tunbridge Wells last year, where it secured 
the first prize for the finest single bloom of a 
Trumpet Daffodil, King Alfred having to take 
second place. The flower rather resembles 
Emperor, but is far more perfect and refined 
in shape, with beautifully-rounded perianth 
segments. Queen of the West, which came 
from Mr. W. T. Ware, of Bath, received an 
award of merit on April 16th. This is a 
giant flower of noble proportions, rich lemon- 
yellow in colour. The trumpet approaches 
that of maximus in character, and had the 
flat, pointed segments possessed more sub 
stance this variety might certainly be con¬ 
sidered a first class flower. Though not a 
novelty, Outpost, as seen at Truro, attracted 
considerable attention. It is in the way of 
Emperor, but larger, rounder, and of softer 
and more refined colour. As it comes a week 


or ten days before Emperor, and is wonder¬ 
fully profuse in bloom, and extremely robust, 
this variety will be valuable. Goldcup, an 
enormous obvallaris form, was also very fine 
at Truro. Both these latter are Mr. Engle- 
heart’s seedlings. Goldseeker, seen for the 
second time, again won encomiums from all 
who were present at the Royal Horticultural 
Society’s meeting on April 2nd. It is a glori¬ 
fied form of the Tenby Daffodil (obvallaris). 
with the unique colouring of the little Santa 
Maria. This was raised by Mr. Chas. Daw¬ 
son, of Penzance. 

Turning to the white Ajax section, we find 
that the great advance made in 1903 has been 
maintained each succeeding year. The most 
striking flowers this year were Ailsa, Atlanta, 
Miss Clinch, Frostbound, and Uncle Robert. 
Three of these came from one raiser, Mr. 
Ernest Crosfield, of Wrexham, who has, un¬ 
doubtedly, the finest collection of white Ajax 
in this country. This gentleman lias given a 
great deal of attention to the improvement 
of these Daffodils, and the marvellous results 
he has achieved can only lie thoroughly ap¬ 
preciated by those who, like the writer, have 
enjoyed the privilege of seeing this collec¬ 
tion. Ailsa, for which Mr. Crosfield received 
an award of merit on April 30th last, is, un¬ 
doubtedly, the whitest of all white Trumpet 
Daffodils. The object that raisers have had 
in view in this section is to produce flowers 
that open white, in contradistinction to varie¬ 
ties like Mine, de Graaff, which open sulphur- 
coloured. Ailsa, however, opens white, with¬ 
out. any tinge of lemon or sulphur about it. 
and in this respect it may lie considered 
equal, if not superior, to White Knight, a 
Dutch raised flower. The flower is of large 
size, with bold, handsome trumpet, enhanced 
in beauty by a heavy reflexiug brim. The 
plant is of fine constitution, and is of Mine, 
de Graaff origin. Atlanta, for which Miss 
Currey received an award of merit on April 
16th, is also a seedling from Mme. de Graaff, 
raised by Messrs, de Graaff Bros., of Leiden. 
The flower is very refined in colour and dis¬ 
tinct in shape. Unlike its parent., the rim 
of the trumpet does not recurve much, and 
the perianth segments are more at right 
angles with the trumpet. In colour the 
perianth is white, while the trumpet is a deli¬ 
cate cream. Miss Clinch is a flower that ex¬ 
cited considerable attention at Birmingham, 
where it secured one of the prizes in the class 
for single blooms. Though not large, it is 
most perfect in all its parts, and if one can 
be allowed to guess at its parentage I should 
suggest Mme. de Graaff and the Tenby Daffo¬ 
dil. At any rate, there is something of both 
these good kinds suggested in this variety. It. 
was exhibited by Mr. R. C. Cartwright, of 
King’s Norton, who thus makes his debut as 
a raiser. Frostbound and Uncle Robert are 
both exceedingly large white trumpet flowers 
of magnificent quality that were exhibited by 
Mr. Crosfield in the ( seedling classes at 
Birmingham. 

Among hiciilors Seraphim, ll j rnd. and Bav 
lor Hiirtiand claim attention. The first 


















GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


July 20, 1907 


2G2 


comes from Messrs. Barr and Sons, and is a 
giant flower of Weardale Perfection type. 
Herod is a seedling between the last-named 
variety and Mme. de Graff. In this the trum¬ 
pet has a much recurving rim, and is deep 
yellow in colour. The perianth segments are 
flat, white, and overlapping. Baylor Hart- 
land, when exhibited in good condition, will, 
I think, prove an acquisition. It is of Horse- 
fieldii character, with well imbricated, creamy- 
white, rounded segments, and a bold, yellow 
trumpet. Though by no means a novelty in 
the real sense of the word, Homespun must 
be considered the- finest incomparabilis 
Daffodil certificated in 1907. It was raised 
by Mr. Englcheart from Golden Spur, crossed 
with Poeticus ornatus, and was cold by him 
to an amateur among a bed of mixed seed¬ 
lings. I well remember seeing a flower of this 
variety which measured almost 4 inches 
across at Truro show in 1903. In form this 
flower rather resembles Princess Mary, bein^ 
very large and circular. The colour is a uni¬ 
form soft lemon-yellow, and the perianth is 
remarkably solid and symmetrical. Another 
remarkable incomparabilis that was seen at 


! ments and a deep yellow cup stained with 
an edging of rich orange red. Another good 
incomparabilis form from Mr. Chas. Dawson 
is Selina. This has long, almond-shaped, 
overlapping, white segments, flushed with 
light yellow at the base. The cup is lumi¬ 
nous yellow, deeply bordered with orange- 
red. Victory, which I saw in Mr. Dawson’s 
grounds, is another huge incomparabilis, very 
round in shape. The creamy-white segments 
are unusually broad and overlapping, and of 
great substance, while the large cup is pale 
lemon. Home Truth, raised by Mr. Crcs- 
field. is an enormous rich yellow flower with 
a very broad cup. This secured the first 
prize at Birmingham a« the finest single 
bloom of Medio coronati with yellow peri¬ 
anth. Giraffe (Mme. de Graaff x Princess 
Mary) is also a large yellow incomparabilis 
of great vigour. Pilgrim, which gained an 
award of merit at Truro, is an exquisite 
Loedsii of White Lady shape, but distinct in 
colour. Corallina, from Messrs. Barr and 
Sons, is a break among Leedsii kinds, and re¬ 
ceived an award of merit at Birmingham on 
account of its unusual colouring. Empire is 



Narcissus Seraphim. From a~photograph in Messrs. Barr and Sons’ nursery at Thames Ditton. 


Truro this year is well-named Pure Gold. 
This i6 a concolor flower, pure, brilliant yel¬ 
low, about two shades deeper than Home¬ 
spun, and a quarter the size. The crinkled 
cup is wide open, spreading, and not fringed 
at the apex, while the pointed segments are 
recurving and overlapping. The whole flower 
is of a pretty, nodding habit, and the tube of 
the flower betrays triandrue origin. It re¬ 
ceived an award of merit and first prize for 
l>est seedling Medio at Truro, and was raised 
by that most skilful amateur, Mr. P. D. 
Williams, of Lanarth. Another good incom¬ 
parable seen at Truro is Robespierre. This 
is a very refined, large flower of drooping 
habit and great substance. The firm, over¬ 
lapping, soft cream-yellow perianth segments 
arc ovate in form, and the large, open, orange 
crown is daintily crinkled at the edge. This 
was also shown by Mr. 1*. D. Williams. 
Brilliancy, for which Messrs. R. II. Bath 
gained an award of merit at Birmingham this 
year, is a seedling from M. .J. Borkelej', 
raised by Mr. Engleheart, who received an 
award of merit for it from the R.H.S. last 
season. The flower huge size_ l^ipches 
across^ with iinmento|M«^qftV^*J|^vy seg 


: an immense white giant Leedsii, and secured 
for its raiser, Mr. Cro6field, the first prize 
in the single bloom class for this type. Water 
Lily, a lovely pure white flower ; llestia, with 
large, spreading perianth of a sulphur shade 
ancl a yellow cup edged with brilliant orange, 
with a green base ; and Seville, with white 
' perianth and very large, spreading, intense 
I orange cup, were three flowers that attracted 
considerable attention at Birmingham. All 
three came from Mr. P. D. Williams. 

The Parvi-coronati group has also shared 
in the general advancement. Jasper, seen at 
Truro, is a fine, symmetrical little Burbidgeii 
with overlapping rich cream-yellow segments 
of reflexing habit and a saucer-shaped, much- 
crinkled deep orange-red crown. Open Face 
is a flower of exquisite form, with very, over 
lapping white perianth and a flat yellow 
crown tipped with orange red. Helen is an 
improved Goldeye, and Fulgens an improved 
Firebrand. Candace has large, white, slightly 
overlapping perianth segments, with broad 
eye of bright citron, deeply ribboned with 
orange-red. Agrippa. belonging, like the last, 
to the Burbidgeii class, has a very deep orange 
cup and creamy-white perianth. Red Knave, 


belonging to the Engleheartii type, is a most 
perfect and refined flower. The eye is very 
flat and wholly vivid red, while the much-over¬ 
lapping segments are a delicate cream colour. 
All these are Cornish seedlings and flowers 
of the highest quality. Probably, the finest 
Parvi form was seen at Birmingham in Aphro¬ 
dite, a flower of huge size and excellent form, 
with large, flat, overlapping white perianth 
and pale yellow eye, with emerald-green 
base. This came from Mr. P. 1). Williams, 
and received an award of merit. Hornet, 
from the same raiser, is also an excellent 
flower. Here the perianth is pale primrose, 
and the flat crown orange-scarlet. 

The contents of my notebook are by no 
means exhausted, but the space allotted me 
by the Editor is already much exceeded, so 
I will conclude my notes with a reference to 
two superb varieties of Poeticus type that 
have received certificates this season. That 
named Miss Willmott is a perfectly unique 
flower, which is said to have resulted from 
the crossing of a Poeticus form and Gloria 
Mundi. The flowers measure a little over 
3 inches across, and the overlapping, broadly- 
ovate perianth segments are of unusual sub¬ 
stance and finish. The crown is of rich 
orange at the margin, with a yellowish base. 
The plant is a strong grower, and was raised 
in Messrs. Tubergen’s nursery, at Haarlem. 
It was exhibited bv Mr. W. T. Ware. Kestrel, 
which gained an award of merit at Birming¬ 
ham, fs a huge flower of the best form, and 
has a large and brilliant eye of blood-orange 
colour. Arthur R. Goodwin. 

K id derm i nster. 


NARCISSUS SERAPHIM. 

So far os we remember, but one solitary 
flower of this giant of cream-coloured bicolor 
Daffodils has been this year exhibited in Lon¬ 
don. But, even so, the refined beauty of the 
variety, quite apart from its giant size and 
proportions, was a great attraction. Indeed, 
amid the great array of new kinds now ap¬ 
pearing each year, the above cannot fail to 
occupy a conspicuous place. At flowering 
time—we had the pleasure of seeing the plaijt 
growing in Messrs. Barr’s collection at Surbi¬ 
ton—the plant was about 21 inches in height, 
the handsome and well balanced flower catch¬ 
ing the eye at a glance. The trumpet, about 
4 inches in length and 2^ inches broad 
at the mouth, is set off to advantage by 
the well-proportioned perianth segments, 
which are white; the trumpet being of the 
palest canary. The variety is among the 
earliest of the bicolors to flower, and, by rea¬ 
son of its great substance and good lasting 
qualities, is likely to prove one of the most 
valuable of recent novelties. Happily, this 
giant among pale-coloured bicolor Daffodils 
is a free grower, a by no means uncommon 
attribute of a large number of new or choice 
Daffodils. E. J. 


NOTES AND EE PLIES. 

Treatment of Pinks.—If I cut my Pinks close 
down to the ground after they have done flowering, would 
they bloom next year on the young growth ? My garden 
is edged with Mrs. Sinkins Pink and others. The plants 
are three years old next autumn.—P inki'n. 

[If you cut the Pinks “close down to the 
ground” after flowering, they will not bloom 
at all satisfactorily next year, but would, in 
all probability, do so the following year— i.e., 
1909. As the” plants are now three years old, 
and you desire a good flowering next year, 
your better plan will lie to take cuttings now 
and plant these, when rooted, in September 
where you require them. There are two 
types of cuttings—those known as “pipings” 
and those known as “heel” cuttings. The 
latter will, we think, be the better. Take 
young shoots of this season’s grow th of about 
4 inches long, and strip them by a downward 
pull from the branch with a heel attached. 
Such cuttings require no further preparation, 
and, if inserted firmly in sandy soil in a cold- 
frame or handlight, will nearly all root. The 
“pipings” also root freely under the same 
treatment, but a little more practice is re¬ 
quired when taking these for cuttings. A 
“piping” is the 3-inch long point or heart 
growth pulled from a growth of the current 
year by a sharp upward movement, and, by 
holding the growth With the left hand and 











July 20. 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


203 


pulling the point, of the shoot sharply with 
the right hand, the piping comes away at a 
joint, and may be inserted without more ado. 
We prefer the “heel” cuttings, however, as 
these make, wo think, the larger bushes. In 
September, by planting a double line of the 
rooted cuttings a few inches apart, a good 
edging may be secured. In the same month 
the old plants could be divided and replanted, 
burying the old steins low down and planting 
firmly.] 

Fond or bog garden - I am much obliged to Jou 
for the courteous answer, in Gardening of June 29th, 
to my inquiry an to a pond in my rock garden. The 
proposed pond will he shaded to some extent in the 
morning, but will get the full afternoon and even¬ 
ing sun. 1 am halting between two opinions whether 
to make it a pond or a bog-garden, and may be the 
latter would be better, as the space is rather smali. 
What do you say? The namc3 of effective (1) water- 
plants, (2) bog-plants for so small a space will be 


ing a perforated water pipe around it, so 
that the moisture is under control. In such 
a bed groups of Iris laevigata (Kaempferi), 
Primula rosea, P. japonica, P. Sieboldi in 
variety, Trillium graudiflorum, Cypripedium 
pubescens, C. spectabile, Lilium canadense. 
Primula dentieulata and P. Cashmeriana, 
Rodgersia podophylla, Saxifraga peltata, S. 
granulata plena, and others would provide an 
effective display for a considerable season. 
What is best to employ will depend not a 
little upon the size of the bed and other 
things. The Panther Lily, for example, would 
be of much value, if so tall and stately a Lily 
could be tolerated, and there are other plants 
to which a similar remark would apply.] 
Sweet Williams. -We send you, for your 1 
inspection, a few trusses of blooms of our | 
strain of AuricuLa-eved Sweet William. It I 


PiEONY PROGRESS. 

Growers of the herbaceous Piconie6 know 
full well that the Chinese Paeony embraces at 
least two very distinct types of flowers those 
having perfectly double flowers and those, by 
reason of their peculiar pelal arrangement, 
called “Anemone-flowered.” The variety 
Progress is a type of the double flower, and, 
when fully expanded, forms a large, solid- 
looking, globular mass of petals, the latter 
very cToselv packed together. In the border 
and in large plantations and groups these 
heavy and massive-looking flowers present a 
very showy and gay appearance, and the 
pLants producing them are usually of excep- 
I tional vigour. There is an almost endless 
I variety of them, and the amateur who has a 
| weakness for flowers of massive proportions 
! and of the largest size will find a good selec- 



Panony Progress. 


much appreciated? I study effect rather than rarity 
of plants. The garden is in North Hants. —H. N. D. 

[We think you will get far more satisfac¬ 
tion from a well-arranged bog garden, inas¬ 
much as the water plants for effect require 
to be in goodly masses, and, by the very 
nature of their growth, their spreading leaf¬ 
age and flowers, considerable room is re¬ 
quired. Moreover, the number of water 
plants for a 6mall pond would be very limited, 
and the flowering season especially so. The 
best water plants, in the circumstances, 
would be the forme of Nymphtea odorata, 
N. tuberosa, N. pygmeea Helvola, and others, 
with Sagittaria variabilis fl.-pl.. and Apon- 
ogeton distachyon, if the water does not con¬ 
tain much lime. Bv adopting the bog garden 
idea, no space would be lost in forming a re¬ 
ceptacle for the plants, and a spongy peat bed 
or one of loam and peat, all depending upon 
the plants employed, could -be arranged,lh^v- 

Digitized by VjOC)QlC 


is, we think, a very good one, the markings 
are clear and well defined, and there is a 
good proportion of flowers showing the none 
too common shade of blue. We have had 
this stock for several years past, and are keep¬ 
ing it up to its high standard by the most 
rigorous selection.—C. S. Daniels and Son, 
II ymondham, Norfolk. 

[A fine strain ; trusses and individual pipe 
of good size.—E d.] 

Change of flower In Clematis Jackmani 
alba.— Can any reader kindly explain the change of 
flower in the Clematis of which I enclose specimens? 
I planted it five years ago. Each year it has pro¬ 
duced a profusion of single blooms, almost pure 
white and growing each side of the stems at the 
junction of the leaves. This year the flowers are 
double, mauve in colour, and only one bloom to a 
branch, of which it is the end or point. Hitherto it 
has not flowered until August. This year the buds 
showed at the beginning of June, and some opened at the 
end of the month. In previous years I nave cut it 
back, last year I did not.-M. M. Partridge. 


tion of them among the meet striking of 
early summer flowers. In colour they vary 
from purple and crimson and other deep 
shades to pink, blush, rose, and the purest 
white. The subject of the present note has 
creamy-white flowers, while Festiva maxima, 
perhaps the largest of the pure white sorts, is 
occasionally touched at the edges of the petals 
with crimson. Lady Carrington, blush- 
white ; Jules Lebon, rcse ; Heine des Roses, 
Louise, creamy-blush ; and Surpasse Pottsi, 
dark crimson, are all of this type, and have 
flowers of the largest size. E. J. 


"The English Flower Garden and Home 

Grounds .”—Eew Edition, 10th, revised, icith descrip¬ 
tions of all the best plants, trees, ami shrubs, their 
culture and arrangement, illustrated on wood. Cloth, 
medium, 8vo., 15s.; post free, 15s. 6d. 

“ The English Flower Garden ” may also be 
had finely bound in 3 vole., half vellum, nett. Of 

aU '""University -of Illinois at 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 










GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


July 20. 1907 


264 


CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

SEASONABLE NOTES. 

Plants grown for the production of large 
blooms will, in some instances, where struck 
early in December or late in November, be 
now showing a second bloom-bud. This will 
cau66 a stoppage in the growth of the shoots 
upon such plants, and ultimately the plants 
will develop additional growths to the extent 
of six or more upon each main stem. To the 
inexperienced cultivator, this is at all times 
a puzzling phase in the growth of the plant, 
the difficulty to him being to know how many 
of these new shoots to retain for future 
flowering, and which to remove, and when 
the operation should be done. Where the 
object is to obtain the largest flowers in all 
their various qualities, then remove all the 
young shoots as soon as they can be handled, 
with the exception of three of the strongest- 
looking upon each plant. Some growers 
wait until the new shoots are 4 inches to 
6 inches long—in fact, until the wood is quite 
firm—thus rendering it necessary to use a 
knife when removal is decided upon. This 
method cannot be recommended, as it is un¬ 
wise to allow these superfluous growths to 
rob the main shoot, and then to cut oft all at 
last. It is far better to remove the flower- 
bud directly it aprvears, and pinch out the 
shoots as soon as they can be handled. Pay 
strict, attention to making the points of each 
shoot secure to the stakes, to prevent loss 
by unforeseen circumstances, as, in the case 
of those plants with only three stems, if any 
are broken, it is a serious matter. 

Black-fly often attacks the points of the 
young growths. If this pest is not de¬ 
stroyed, the tender leaves are soon crippled, 
and the plants not only become disfigured, 
but receive a serious check. Incessant at¬ 
tention to dusting the parts affected with 
Tobacco powder in the evening and vigorous 
syringing in the morning will remove the 
insects, hut. in stubborn cases a dipping of 
the points of the shoots in Tobacco-water 
may be found necessary. This is easily ac¬ 
complished bv bonding the points down 
gently and immersing them in a shallow dish 
or pan held in the left hand, which contains 
the decoction. Care must be used in bend¬ 
ing the growths, as, being brittle, they are 
liable to snap off. 

Continue the tying and training of speci¬ 
men plants as the strongest branches make 
progress, remembering that it is far easier 
to get the growths into position when they 
are young and pliable than when the 
wood is riper, and consequently more liable 
to be broken in the operation of bending. 
The plants set apart to produce the latest 
supply of blooms will now require the final 
pinching of the shoots. Those plants that 
were struck in February will be the most 
suitable for supplying flowers at the end of 
December and early in January. It is not 
wise to grow' a large number of kinds, rely¬ 
ing rather upon a few sorts that are known 
to flower late. In the extreme south of 
England it is not so easy to have Chrysan¬ 
themums late as it is farther north ; therefore 
the selection of varieties must be confined to 
those which are naturally late, and with judi¬ 
cious treatment of the plants flowers can be 
had at the times named. One advantage 
possessed by those residing in the south 
over those living farther north, as far as late 
blooms arc concerned, is the fact, that they 
can leave their plants with safety out of 
doors longer than can the northern growers. 

Watering the plants properly is important 
—in fact, success or failure depends upon 
how this is carried out. The plants should 
never have water applied to them until they 
require-it, particularly when the soil is of 
a heavy character. Tapping the sides of the 
pots with the knuckles is the surest means 
of judging whether water is necessary or 
otherwise. During hot days in summer, 
water to the roots will be required, in some 
instances three times. Where rain-water can 
bo had, it should be used in preference to 
any other; but where it comes direct from 
wells or w'ater companies’ pipes in a cold 
6tate, as is often the case near towns, means 
should be take! 
air some time 


n 


it to the sun and 
its .belnsk med. 



If used in a cold state, a severe check may be 
given to the plants, as during hot weather 
the soil in the pots is many degrees warmer 
than the water from the sources named. 
This mode of application gives a chill to the 
roots, and accelerates the spread of mildew, 
which is hard to eradicate. Water which 


loosely to these, and at. the same time round 
the outside of the brunches, will prevent 
the plants Inking injured until the stakes can 
be placed to the stems in whatever form of 
training is desired. In the case of larger 
plants four stakes will be necevssary. 


contains a large percentage of carbonate of 
lime in solution is hurtful to the plants, and 
should be softened by some process before 
being used. Auticalcaire, more commonly 
called milk of lime, will precipitate the chalk 
to the bottom of the tank if mixed at the 
rate of 2 lb. to 500 gallons of water. If 
thoroughly stirred and allowed to stand for 
twenty-four hours it renders the water soft. 
Common washing soda dissolved in a small 
quantity of hot water at the rate of a. quar¬ 
ter of a pound of soda to 36 gallons of water, 
also answers n« a stimulant to the plants. 
Water that is very hard should always be 
softened by some means before using. Sy¬ 
ringing the plants promotes a healthy growth, 
and checks insects. Syringing is best done 
in the afternoon or evening of a hot day. It 
is only in bright weather that syringing 
should he done. When the plants are nume¬ 
rous and placed in rows, the garden engine 
is the best instrument to use, and the water 
should be directed to the foliage, both under¬ 
neath and on the surface, with some force, 
by going between two rows of plants, and re¬ 
turning in the opposite direction. The 
plants then receive a thorough washing, 
which is better than a light sprinkle with the 
hand syringe. In the evening after a hot 
day is the best time to perform this detail, 
and again early in the morning, if the 
weather is hot and dry, and without any 
dews. In cold, sunless weather, syringing 
the plants should not be practised, tut this 
is likely to encourage mildew, which is best 
checked by dusting black sulphur on the 

foliage._ 

• 

NOTES AND REPLIES . 
Chrysanthemums on walls. - Those 
planted out on walls will now reauire 
copious waterings, and, if not already done, 
a mulching of eome short manure, such as 
that from a spent Mushroom-bed, in order 
to preserve the foliage in good condition. 
This mulching will assist to keep the roots 
cool and reduce the quantity of water re¬ 
quired to a minimum. Such plants will now 
be breaking into additional growths, which 
should be thinned and regulated according 
to the space at disposal. From 4 inches to 
6 inches apart is a suitable distance for the 
branches of the large-growing kinds, and 
closer for those of Pompons and single 
varieties. When the shoots are kept nailed 
to the wall, the foliage quickly rights itself, 
and at all times presents a neat appearance ; 
but when this is deferred for a time, the 
branches fall about from want of support, 
and when nailing is attended to, their appear¬ 
ance is somewhat marred for a time. 

Chrysanthemums for home decoration - 
points to watch. The present season has 
demonstrated forcibly the necessity of stak 
ing Chrysanthemums early, and providing 
some means of preventing accidents by the 
plants toppling over. This enn be done by 
tying the plants, when in single rows, to a 
stout wire fastened at either end. The shape 
of the plants is not always given sufficient 
consideration, and it is not infrequently soon 
when housed that some specimens arc un¬ 
gainly, by being allowed to stand in one posi¬ 
tion for long together. Where shapely plants 
are desired, this should not be forgotten, 
and T give the hint to those who, although 
they do not aim at flowers for exhibition, like 
to have nice shaped plants when housed. Be¬ 
fore long earwigs will have entered upon their 
campaign, and a sharp look out should be 
kept for them. A few' nights’ neglect may 
cause the loss of the best blooms.— Towns¬ 
man. 

Bush Chrysanthemums.— The branches of 
the Pompons, single and other varieties, 
grown in bush form, will now require some 
support. They cannot be finally staked at 
present, as t6cir growth is not complete. 
In order, therefore, to prevent the branches 
being broken, three stakes placed in the pots 
in a triangular form, and ipatting tied 


QARDEN PESTS AND FRIENDS. 

NOTES AND REPLIES . 

Gall-mites on Sycamore-tree. — Pleas* say 
whether the enclosed, which have appeared on several 
other leaves of same tree, are likely to be of per¬ 
manent damage or to infect other specimens of trees?— 
Darius. 

[The leaves of your Sycamore are attacked 
by one of the gall mites (Phyllocoptee aeeri- 
cola). Other kinds of trees arc not likely to 
1 h* infested by this mite. Maple leaves arc 
often covered with very similar galls, but 
they are formed by a mite belonging to another 
genus. The best way of getting rid of this 
mite is to gather the infested leaves and burn 
them.-—G. S. K.] 

Aphides on Plum-trees. I send you herewith 
some leaves from Plum-trees, and shall be much 
obliged if you will inform me what the cause is—in¬ 
sect, or blight, or what? Last year these trees were 
in very much the same state, and this year they seern 
in a had way. There was hardly any blossom, and 
of what there w as a very small proportion set . They 
are wall-trees, and on the same wall are Cherries and 
Pears, all of which are untouched. There may be a 
curled leaf or two on some of the Cherries, hut the 
Pears arc absolutely clear. Some of a break of Goose¬ 
berries that are nearest this wall are also affected. 
Plums, Cherries, and Pears are all mixed, not in 
divisions. I have tried spraying with Hellebore, Fir- 
tree-oil. Quassia, etc., without much effect. A num- 
l»er of Hops on a trellis in another part of the garden 
was last year completely blackened in the same 
way, and this year nave made a very poor growth, 
though hitherto most luxuriant. The garden is airy, 
and gets lots of sun (not this year, however). There 
are a good many forest trees beyond the fruit- 
tree wall, but none near the trellis. I shall be 
much obliged if you can recommend any treatment? 
IRTHINGTON. 

[Your trees are evidently very badly 
attacked by one of the aphides, probably 
Aphis mall, but the specimens are so dried up 
that. I cannot tell for certain the name of the 
species. Spraying is not of much use when 
the aphides have attacked the leaves, as the 
latter at once begin to curl, and so shelter 
the pests, but if spraying is carried out several 
times in October and November, when the 
true sexual forms are laying their eggs on 
the shoots, much may be done towards sav¬ 
ing the trees from being infested next year. 
You should use a strong solution of paraffin 
emulsion. It would also bo useful to spray 
the trees in the spring, just before the buds 
begin to open, in the same manner. You 
should also dress the trees in the winter w ith 
caustic alkali solution. When sending queries 
please write on one side of the paper only, as 
when the query has to be printed, as in your 
case, writing, as you do, on both sides, causes 
a deal of trouble.—G. S. S.] 

The Ermine-moth.—This morning I found a tree 
(whose name I do not know, that has a white blos¬ 
som) covered from the top branch to the ground with 
a thick, white web, und covered with the creeping 
things which 1 send you in a little tin box. Yester¬ 
day there was nothing, apparently, wrong with tin; 
tree. Could you tell me what is wrong, what they 
are, and how to destroy them?— M. (’. MOORE. 

[Your tree is covered by the webs formed 
by the caterpillars of the small-ermine moth 
(Hvponomeuta padellus). You should cut out 
at once, if possible, all the webs and kill 
their inmates. It is difficult to make any in¬ 
secticide reach them on account of the shel 
ter given by the webs, but if you can apply 
one with sufficient, force to break the webs. I 
should use paraffin emulsion. When the 
caterpillars arc full grown, they will become 
chrysalides within small cocoons formed 
within the webs.—G. S. S.] 

Bluebottle flies In vinery -I had a very fine 
crop of Grapes last year, and all of a sudden, after 
they began to turn, the bluebottle flies attacked 
them and spoilt a good many of them. I have seen 
a few of the flies trying to get into the house again, 
and as the Grapes arc just on the point of turning, I 
should he glad if you could suggest something to 
prevent them?—L inton. 

[We do not know of any better means of 
catching the bluebottle-flies than filling wide¬ 
mouthed bottles with beer and sugar or hone p 
and water, and hanging them about in tne 
house. You might also try some of the glass 
or wire-gauze fly-traps baited with a piece of 
meat. You could also stretch 6ome very fine 
gauze crv$r the ventilators.] 


-CHAMPAIGN 



July -0, 1007 


GARDENING ILL U STEAL ED. 


2G3 



Carina Duchess of York. 


age, had but insignificant flowers, where oh 
the blooms of the newer section are large 
and showy- The improvement of the Carina, 
viewed from a. flowering standpoint, was first 
due to M. Crozy, of Lyons, hence the mem 
hers of this group were usually designated 
Crozy Cannas. Since that time however, 
new Varieties have been raised, not only in 
this country and in France, but also in vari 
ous other parts of the world. Several fine 
varieties have originated in the United States, 
while one of the most popular of all, Konigin 
Charlotte, comes from Germany. These 
Cannas are extremely valuable for the em¬ 
bellishment of the greenhouse or conserva¬ 
tory during the summer and early autumn 
months. For this they m^be grown in-pots, 


bO 


rown m-pots. 

ogle 


either close to the dwelling house or plungec 
in a group or singly on the Gross. Again 
for furnishing a bed, or l>eds, during the sum 
mer, they are extremely valuable, as, apa 
! from the handsome leafage characteristic o 
I the old race of Cannas, their flowers are very 
I handsome. 

Culture. For whatever purpose these 
Carinas are required, it must be borne in 
mind that they are very liberal feeders, 
hence the potting compost should be rich, 
and of a fairly holding nature. A mixture of 
three parts loam to one part each of leaf-mould 
and well-decayed dried cow-manure, with 
nearly one part of sand, wilL suit them well. 
As %e pots or tubs get well filled with 
roots, frequent applications of liquid-manure 


The Shirley Poppies. My Shirley 
Poppies have never been so beautiful 
as they are at the present time, due. 
in a large measure, to gathering the 
flowers each morning as they open. 
My plants are the result of self-sown 
seeds. I took the precaution to have 
them well thinned out, and at the pre¬ 
sent time some of the individual plants 
are from 2 feet to 2£ feet in diameter. 
The chief thing to remember in main¬ 
taining the display is to gather the 
blossoms each morning as soon as they 
are open, or partially open. In this 
way seed pods are not allowed to de¬ 
velop, and each day’s supply ie quite 
equal to that which preceded it. This 
gathering of the flowers each morning 
maintains the plants in health, and 
ensures the display being continued 
for quite a lengthened peri ml. Fre¬ 
quent applications of manure-water 
"T moderate strength will maintain 
the plants in health and vigour. Many 
people say that these flowers, when 
eut, are ot little value, because they fall to 
pieces I>efore the day is out. I always place 
the ends of the stems in boiling, or very hot, 
water for about three minutes directly after 
cutting, this sealing up the ends and keeping 
the flowers fresh for quite three days. Not 
only are the flowers kept, in a fresh condi¬ 
tion, but they continue to expand. T have 
just been looking at a vase of blossoms, 
several of which are fully 6 inches or more in 
diameter. As they expand the beauties of 
their markings are* more apparent.—D. 13. C. 

Mildew on Roses (Mark Pattison ).—Dissolve ail 
ounce of sulphide of potabsium in 2 pints of hot water, 
then add enouph cold water to make 2$ gallons. 
Use n syringe with a very fine nozzle, and take care 
that the underside of the leaves is wetted. 

UNIVtRSlTY OF ILLINOIS AT 


are o£ great assistance. This also applies to 
those planted out in beds. The plants must, 
of course, be protected from frost during the 
winter, hence in autumn, as the leaves get 
shabby, and before the frosts are with ns, 
they must be removed into the greenhouse, or 
some structure where they will be safe. Of 
course, this does not apply to those that, are 
kept altogether in the greenhouse. By some 
they are, during the winter, stood underneath 
the stage, but such treatment is o]>cn to very 
great objection, ns they are in such a spot 
liable to drip, which is very injurious to the 
weaker kinds, especially those with spotted 
flowers, as herewith illustrated. They should, 
if possible, be wintered in a green¬ 
house where the temperature ranges 
from 40 degs. to 50 dogs., or there¬ 
abouts. During that time the large 
masses will not need any water, but 
the small ones must not be allowed 
to become parched up, otherwise the 
rhizomes will suffer. 

If it is desired to increase the 
stock, they may. about the middle of 
March, be turned out of the pots and 
shaken clear of the soil. Then each 
rhizome with a growing point may, if 
needed, he made into a separate 
plant, and potted singly. If no in 
crease of plants is desired, as much 
of the old soil as possible may he re¬ 
moved, and the plants repotted in 
the same pots as before, or, if they 
are very vigorous, a size or two 
larger may be used. 

Varieties. —There are now so 
many varieties that it is a difficult 
matter to make a selection. The fol¬ 
lowing are all good :—Alphonse Bou- 
vier, crimson; Black Prince, deep 
purplish red; Duchess of York, yel¬ 
low, spotted red; Duke of Marl¬ 
borough, deep crimson; Frau E. 
Krachfc, rosy-salmon; Konigin Char¬ 
lotte, scarlet, edged yellow; M. do 
Bay n al. rosy-pink; Menelik, red¬ 
dish crimson; M. Floront Fauwels, 
reddish orange ; Mrs. F. Dreer, yel¬ 
low, spotted rod; Mrs. Kate Gray, 
orange-scarlet; Niagara, red, mar 
gined gold ; Papa Crozy, orange-scar¬ 
let ; and Paul Mcyhm. amber. X. 


ROOM AND WINDOW. 


INDOOR PLANTS. 

FLOWERING CANNAS. 

It is questionable if any other class of green¬ 
house plants, except, perhaps, Carnations 
and Streptocarpi, have made such an ad¬ 
vance in popular favour within the last twenty 
years as these Cannas, for there is now 
scarcely a garden where they are not repre¬ 
sented. It was in the year 1888 that we first 
made the acquaintance of this race of Cannas, 
and, when exhibited, they created quite a 
furore. This was not to bo wondered at, for 
the Cannas of old. grown only for their leaf- I 


varying from 6 inches to 1 foot in diameter, 

I the bold masses that can lx; produced in the 
| larger size being best suited for large struc- 
I lures, and the smaller ones for ordinary 
! greenhouses. Even a comparatively small 
J plant with but a single spike will flower for a 
considerable period, for though the individual 
I blooms do not last long, a succession is kept 
I up for some time from the same panicle, as 
the laterals develop after the expansion of 
| the earlier blossoms, and, of course, in the 
I case of large established plants, flowering 
( shoots are pushed up throughout the season. 
Grown in large pots or tubs, these Cannas 
form a very pleasing feature out-of-doors. 




266 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


July 20, 1907 


ROSES. 

' « 
BUDDING HOSES. 

After such a dripping season ns wo Imvo 
had. there is not likely to be any difficulty as 
regards the stocks “running” well, so that, 
given fine weather now, budding should be 
very successful. The budding of Roses has 
frequently been dealt with in these columns, 
but as there are constantly being added new 
readers, a word now may be opportune. 
Every amateur who desires to exhibit Hoses 
should bud a few Briers or Manetti stocks 
each year, for it is from “maidens,” ;is the 
one-year-old plants are termed, that the best, 
blooms of certain special sorts are obtained. 
There ' are other reasons why budding 
one’s own Roses should be adopted. Certain 
indifferent grow ing kinds succeed well enough 
if they are budded where they are to remain, 
and the cafeful observer will soon note which 
Roses answer to this description. Among 
them would be Xavier Olibo, Horace Vernet, 
Alfred K. Williams, etc. It. is usual to com¬ 
mence budding the hedge Briers first. That 
is, those known tus standards, half-standards, 
or dwarf standards, as these cease active 
growth first, and they must he “caught” 
when sap is flowing freely, or failure is cer¬ 
tain. Some two or three weeks ago it was 
recommended that the Briers be gone over 
and their side or lateral growths reduced to 
three or four. Into two or three of these 
growths the buds are now inserted. One may 
bud as many different sorts as there are 
shoots, if preferred. What are known us 
“dual” standards are very interesting, if 
the selection of sorts be a wise one. For in¬ 
stance, La France and Liberty would make n, 

f ood pair, or Ulrich Brunner and Frau Karl 
)ruschki. There should he a contrast in 
colour, but growth should be similar. When 
budding, it. is best to cut off the shoots con¬ 
taining the buds in early morning. Remove 
the foliage, leaving about 4 inch of the leaf¬ 
stalk, to enable one to handle the bud better. 
The shoots, when tl us trimmed, should be 
laid in wet Grass in a box, and kept in a 
cool place. Take one sort at a time, put 
the ends in a jar of water, and keep it near 
the stocks to be budded. T may say that the 
hotter the weather, the better, but do not bud 
when it is raining. 

The “bud” is that little speck to be seen 
in the axils at base of leaf stalk. This little 
speck is a plant in embryo, and it follows 
that there is a germ at its base. Take the 
shoot in the left hand and cut a bud off from 
the base. This is done by placing the knife 
about £ inch above the eye, or bud, and 
bringing it just beneath the bark until it 
emerges about 4 inch beyond the “eye.” 
Some budders, after the knife has passed be 
neath the eye, rend off the portion of bark 
beyond, then cut the bark point shape about 
4 inch beyond the eye. Turn over the' bud 
thus cut, and a piece of the wood will be seen 
attached to the bark. Now, this must be 
jerked out, and liow tc5 do this and how 
cleverly or carelessly it is done often means 
success or failure in budding. If jerked out 
from the right hand end, the germ of the bud 
is liable to come out with the wood. The 
proper way is to lift the end of this piece of 
wood on the left hand side, then press the 
thumb-nail of the right hand on the wood 
just above tlie bud. The wood is then 
sharply jerked out, when it will lie found 
that the little germ is intact nt the base of the 
“eye” or bud. Care must be exercised that 
the bark be not bruised or jagged. The 
cleaner the cuts that are made the more cer¬ 
tain the success. 

The best shoots to cut. for buds are those 
lhat are carrying a bloom, or one from which 
the bloom bos just fallen. The buds, or 
“eyes,” are best when dormant, but there is 
such a thing as being too dormant. Rather 
than this, select them just on the move. Do 
not select buds from soft, unripe shoots. Tea 
Roses need careful watching to secure their 
buds. They must be put in a few at a time, 
just when they are “ripe.” The buds for 
hedge Briers are selected from shoots less 
stout than those for dwarf Briers or 
Manettis. After the bud is prepared, the 
next detail is to make a cut in the lateral 
growth of the Brier for its reception. This 


is made like a letter T, the cross cut being j 
farthest away from the main stem. The 
knife, is drawn gently along the bark, just 
deep enough to make an incision without cut¬ 
ting the inner wood. The, bark is then raised 
by the point of the knife just, at the part 
where the straight line ends. The bone end 
of the knife is then run gently down both sides 
under the bark, and the bud inserted. The 
operation is completed bv binding up tightly 
the part that has received the bud. This is 
usually done with good raffia or bast, but cot¬ 
ton. such as candle-makers use, is very good. 
Do not cut. any of the Brier’s growth away 
until next February, lieyond what has nl 
ready been removed. If any suckers appear, 
allow them to remain, as they tend to 
strengthen the Brier by aiding the produc¬ 
tion of more roots. Dwarf Briers are budded 
close to the root. If they are seedling Briers, 
the hud is inserted in the “collarof the 
Brier—that is, just beneath the cluster of 
branches on the com men cement of the roots. 
Briers from cuttings have a long stem be¬ 
tween the branches and the roots. Insert 
the bud in the atom ns near the roots as prac¬ 
ticable. The soil lias to be drawn away a 
little to enable the buds to be inserted in 
such stocks, but it may be replaced as soon 
ns buds are inserted, unless wet weather ap- 
jH'ars ; then they are best left, uncovered. 
About throe weeks after the buds have been 
inserted they should be examined. If the ! 
eye looks lively and fresh, there is no need 
to untie it for another week or so, but if it 
appears black the probability is it lias failed. 
Iti this case the stocks should lie rebudded. 
This can usually be done a little higher up 
the* shoot, or. in the case of dwarf stocks, the 
bud may be inserted on the opposite side. 

Dwarf stocks may be budded up till Sep¬ 
tember, but it is best to have all budding 
completed by the second or third week in 
August. It is not generally known that Roses 
may l>e budded upon various species of the 
Ros*. Rosa indica makes a splendid stock 
for Tea Roses, but I fear the stock would be 
too tender for this country. The common 
Monthly Rose makes an excellent stock for 
choice Tea-scented sorts that are found diffi¬ 
cult to grow on the Brier. Crimson Rambler 
and other Roses of the Rambler tribe may 
also Ik* used for stocks, but. pejrhn?>«, the 
best all round stocks arc cuttings made from 
Briers. These are made in October and 
November. Select nice bard growths of this | 
season’s production, and, if possible, with a 
“heel,” and plant them in beds in rows about 
7 inches apart and about 1 inch apart in the 
rows. The .stocks are rooted in twelve 
months, but they are usually transplanted in 
February into rows about 3 feet apart and 
7 inches or 8 indies apart in the rows. 

A few sorts that should Ik* annually budded 
by those who desire to exhibit Roses aye here¬ 
with mentioned. These are generally dis¬ 
carded after the first year, although some do 
well the second year. These “maiden” 
plants afford blossoms of such high quality 
that it pays any exhibitor to grow a few of 
each sort. The following is a selection of a i 
few of the principal sorts worth growing as ! 
maidens:—Horace Vernet, Alfred K. 
Williams, Duchess of Bedford, Victor Hugo, 1 
Marquise Litta, White Lady, Lady Mary 
Fitzwilliam, Bessie Brown, Mrs. John Laing, 
Etienne Levet, Marie Baumann, Dean Hole, 
Ulster, Mildred Grant, Florence Pemberton, 
Robert Scott, Duchess of Portland. Frau 
Karl Druschki, Xavier Olibo, Gustave 
Piganenu, Helen Keller, Comte Raimbaud, 
Louis Van Houtte, Marchioness of Down- 
shire. Mrs. Sharman Crawford, and Papa 
Lambert. There, doubtless, are others, but 
this is a fairly representative list that may be 
budded annually, and if the stocks are 
planted in good rich land, a few hundreds of 
such plants would enable the novice to meet 
with a fair measure of success at the exhibi 
tions. It must not be inferred from this that 
the novice should relv solely on these maiden 
plants. They should be looked upon a« 
supplementary, and. in an early season, would 
com** in very useful for exhibition when the 1 
cut back plants had finished their first j 
blooming. Rosa. 


Rose a Parfum de I’Hay.— 'This beautiful 
variety of the Rosa rugosa tribe was raise# by 


M. G ravereanx at de PHay, near Paris. The 
blossoms are largo and fairly double, and the 
colour is good, reminding one of an old H.P. 
Rose Dnpuy Jamain. It also fruits freely. 
It is extremely sweet-scented, even rivalling 
Mrs. Anthony Watercr, which I at one time 
thought it was too near, but the colour is a 
paler shade of red than in that fine sort. 
These double Rugosa Roses, possessing, as 
they do, sueh a hardy nature,' are a wonder¬ 
ful advance, for they give the dwellers in 
cold, bleak districts, as well as near or in 
large towns and cities, hardy sorts, that will 
grow well. There is a really grand Rose 
in Conrad Ferdinand Meyer, which is quite 
equal to any of the Hybrid Perpetuals, and 
then we have the snowy purity of the huge 
blossoms of Blanc double de Courbet, which 
is, perhaps, one of the purest white Roses 
we possess in Rosa rugesa, making fine stan¬ 
dards and half standards, developing large, 
bushy heads, that will, by careful pruning, 
attain enormous dimensions.— Rosa. 


COMTESSE DE NADAILLAC FAILING 
TO DEVELOP. 

I am very much perplexed by the behaviour of one of 
my Hose-bushes, and shall be glad if you can help 
me. The Rose is Comtesse de Nadaillac. I have had 
the plant some years. The first year it bloomed 
well, ever shire, the buds ppt nl>out as big as Hazel¬ 
nuts, then turn red and fall off. I have tried It in 
full sun. then in shade, now in full sun again. It 
grows well, making new wood annually, ami is 
evidently vigorous and sturdy. 1 have a good col- 
lection of Hoses, and some time ago I had similsr 
trouhle with Innocents l’irola, but it crew out of it, 
in a week or two. For some time past I have been 
growing various kinds of Sedums and Saxifrages in my 
Rose-beds, and they are gradually covering the sur¬ 
face. Are they likely to interfere with the Roses?- 
H. D. Stratton. 

[This is one of those difficult Roses that can 
only be successfully grown in a warm situa¬ 
tion—in fact, it is a sort that requires the 
protection of a wall. Mr. Prince, who grows 
this Rose so admirably, lias numbers of 
plants at the foot of walls, and doubtless, in 
a season like the present, pieces of slate are 
placed near the roots to shoot off excessive 
moisture. The Rev. J. Pemberton once in¬ 
formed us that be bad Comtesse rle Nadaillac 
growing on walls most successfully, and some 
were 4 feet and 5 feet in height. We should 
advise you to replant your bush next autumn, 
giving it a nice warm position on a wall or 
Fence. A close boarded fence would do, if in 
south or west aspect. It would be a good 
plan to plant a few Briers against such a wall 
or fence, and bud them with this glorious 
Rose—of course, leaving the plants there per 
manently. If you were careful to make » 
good border, draining it well and adding 
bone-meal to the soil, you should be able to 
successfully grow this Tea Rose. It is, per¬ 
haps, the most difficult one in the whole col¬ 
lection to produce satisfactorily, and of that, 
marvellous colour vve all like so much. There 
can be no doubt that Mine. Constant Soupert 
will run this Rose very close as a popular 
favourite, and its growth is far more satis¬ 
factory. We do not think the Sedums are 
responsible for the failure of the Rose to 
open, although we should hesitate to plant 
this elnes of plant among Roses of the char¬ 
acter of Comtesse de Nadaillac.] 


Rose Le Progrfes. —This is really a splendid 
introduction, the rich golden colour being 
very clear and beautiful. The blooms are of 
ovoL shape, not extra large, but double and 
abundantly produced. The centre of the 
flower is of a rich golden colour, the outer 
petals and edges of inner petals being lit up 
with creamy-white. This is not to any great 
extent the ease, and the golden colour is not 
spoiLt thereby, ns so often happens with 
other Roses. The growth of Le Progres is 
not progress in this respect, as it is not. equal 
to Mme. Ravarv, although superior in the 
colour of its expanded flowers, but it grows 
fairly well, and could be used to much effect 
if half-etandards of Billiard et Barre were 
interspersed. This latter has a rich colour, 
a shade or two deeper than Le Progres, and. 
although a semi-elimber, on a standard or 
half-standard it flowers freely. If th« situa¬ 
tion would lend itself to a few tall pillars, a 
still further addition could be made by having 
some plants of Gardenia, that delightful 
sweet-scented Wichuraiana Rose referred to 
in another note. W. X. 


Digitized b 


y Google 


UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 





July 20. 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


2G7 


SINGLE AND SEMI-DOUBLE ROSES. 

The advent of the single flowered leas and 
Hybrid Teas lias -been not. the least valuable 
result accruing from the marvellous efforts 
during recent years in cross fertilising the 
Rose. 

Until the Hybrid Tea and Tea-scented ar 
rived, the season in which single Roses were 


point of view, is certainly the most beautiful 
sort we have. The long buds, ero they un¬ 
fold, are of a rich bronzy-orange scarlet, 
and, when open, a lovely apricot hue. It is 
a vigorous grower, apd well worthy of exten¬ 
sive culture- for its buds alone. As a standard 
this Rose would be a great success. It has 
rereived the gold medal of the National Rose 
Society. 


purpose when cut, as they may be bail with 
tine long stems. 

Irish Engineer (II.T.) is a dazzling scar¬ 
let, most brilliant in colour, but the flower 
suffers rather from wet. The blossoms are 
rounded, and very large. 

Irish Harmony (H.T.) is another of the 
single Roses selected as being worthy of a 
gold medal by the National Rose Society. 



Rose Irish Beauty. 


most beautiful was but a shortlived one; but 
now we may have them until frost comes. 

The lovely H.T. Rose illustrated is one of 
the most precious, for, in addition to its large 
white blossoms, richly endowed with golden 
anthers, it is very sweet-scented. So beauti¬ 
ful is this Rose that it well deserves to be 
planted in a group of five or six at least, 
although one plant will develop extraordinary 
dimensions if allowed to do so. 

Irish Elegance (H.T.), from a colour 

Digitized by GOOgle 


Irish Glory (H.T.) is, perhaps, the 
largest of the Hybrid Teas. It is a peculiar 
1 feature of cross-breeding Roses that so many 
come single, so that we may have a seedling. 

1 say, of Frau Karl Druschki producing an im 
mens? single flower. Irish Glory gives one 
the impression that it is a single-flowered 
Mme. Lambard, the colour being a silvery 
1 pink inside. It is an immense flower, and is 
often employed at exhibitions for filling bowls, 
1 and most beautiful the blooms are for the 


The colour is saffron yellow, crayoned with 
claret colour, opening to creamy-white. The 
blossoms are quite 5 inches across. It is a 
very perpetual bloomer, and a first-rate 
grower. 

Bardou Job (H.T.).—What a gorgeous 
colour, ricli crimson, shaded black! It is 
one of the best half-dozen, and no garden 
should be without it. The Rose can be 
grouped or for pillars, and it looks grand 
when running up poles, wi(K large flowered 
















268 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


July 20. 1907 


Clematises intertwining. There are fix* 
quently two rows of petals, wo that, strictly, 
it is not single-flowered. 

Maharajah is just the Rose to make a 
fine shruh. Where it can be isolated, there 
is it seen to best advantage. Its huge, vel¬ 
vety-crimson flowers are freely produced in 
summer and again in autumn, but then not 
so freely. This Rose should be very spar- 
ingly pruned, but old wood should be taken 
clean away every two or three years. I have 
great hopes that one of last season’s novelties, 

Lina Schmidt Michel, will maintain 
the good opinion formed of it when it 
comes to be grown outside. It is semi 
double, but of such a delightful colour it is 
certain to become a favourite. The colour 
of the inside of petals is madder-pink, the 
outside being rich carmine. It is a wonder¬ 
ful grower, and will quickly make a good- 
sized shrub. 

MOROBNROTH is so much like Carmine Pil¬ 
lar that many will think this Rose should not 
have been sent out. It flowers freely on onc- 
year plants, and may be used as low bushes 
where Carmine Pillar would be too rampant. 
It seems to me to have a clearer white eye 
than Carmine Pillar, and it is somewhat per¬ 
petual, although not to any great extent. 
That beautiful gein, 

Rosa siniua Anemone, was described in 
Gardening Illustrated quite recently, so 
there is no need to repeat what was then said. 

Macrantha and its hybrids are a delight¬ 
ful group, and of most dainty colouring. One 
of the best is 

Mrs. O. G. Orpen.— This will be a useful 
garden 6hrub where bold gardening can be 
adopted. 

Una is delightful, combining the delicacy 
of the Tea Rose in its creamy buds with the 
bramble-like growth of the wild hedge Roses. 

Lady Penzance is, without a doubt, the 
gem of the Penzance Sweet Briers. 

The Austrian Yellow is also a sort of 
most intense colouring, which creates in our 
minds a desire that someone may use this 
Rose on a hardy species, that will evolve for 
us another distinct garden group. 

The W H'HURAi an a group is rich in single 
forms. First, there is the type, fragrant 
and beautiful, with, in August, its huge 
trussea of white blossoms. We then have 
the creamy-yellow Jersey Beauty, the gorge¬ 
ous ami fragrant Wichuraiana rubra, Joseph 
Billiard a Rose with a most decided future 

and Hiawatha, which is now so well known, 
and. although claimed to be a seedling of 
Crimson Rambler, is, nevertheless, unmis¬ 
takably a Wichuraiana Rose. 

The Rugosa Roses furnish us with a 
snowy-white form of the type, which is one 
of our loveliest and most, useful, seeing that 
it yields a fine, showy fruit. And then there 
is atropurpurea, a very beautiful round 
flower, of rich purple colouring. Rosa. 


DARK COLOURED ROSES. 

No Roses appeal to me as do these. One 
reason, I suppose, is this : they are rarely 
seen in perfect form. A cool season suits 
them, as hot sun burns their petals. Growlers 
in the North can, therefore, produce them 
more frequently than those in the South. 
This season should see the dark flowers at 
their best. I have before me a beautiful 
bloom of the variety Sultan of Zanzibar. 
Pity this does not open with the freedom of, 
say. the pink Mrs. John Laiug. Dark Roses 
generally arc moderate growers, and do not 
succeed so well on cut-back plants as they 
do from maidens. 

A. K. Williams is perfect in its imbricated 
form; each petal shows itself, as do those 
in a Camellia. This is included among dark 
varieties, yet the shade is light crimson coni 
pared to many. 

Ben Cant is the finest addition to the rich 
deep crimsons noted for many a year. It 
has splendid petals, which are of a velvety 
texture. The flower is large, with a high 
pointed centre, and the plant is a more vigor 
ous grower than most of the dark kinds. 

Captain Hayward.— This also is not 
especially dark in its shade of crimson. The 
flowers are somewhat thin and open quickly, 
yet in size and shape it is first-rate. Excel¬ 
lent in growth, it is good as a variety to 
flower under glass. 

by Google 


Charles Lkkkhvke, velvety crimson, with 
quite a plum shade, this is, as regards 
colour, one of the finest of Roses. Intro¬ 
duced as far back as 1861. 

C«>mte de Raimbaud is much like the last- 
named. 

Duchess of Bedford, dark crimson, vivid 
and rich, the shape and size of the flower 
being first, rate. It is, however, a variety 
which seldom becomes old. 

Duke of Wellington. —This is a Rose 
of remarkably rich colour, and a very satis¬ 
factory one in the matter of grow th. 

Earl OF Dufferin.—I have seen fine 
blooms of this, hut generally it is disap¬ 
pointing. The bloom is almost round in 
shape, and the petals show but little of the 
inside colour, which is maroon. 

Fisher Holmes is a very useful crimson 
variety, although it is not usually an exhi¬ 
bitor’s Rose. Mostly, the dark sorts have a 
delightful fragrance. 

Horace Vernet. rich velvety crimson. is 
the ideal show flower, but generally only 
short-lived in cut-back trees. 

Huoh Dickson is a grand sort, of re¬ 
cent introduction, deep in colour, and fine 
in form, also vigorous in growth. 

Louis van Houtte is a distinct and fine 
sort, crimson-red in colour. 

Prince Arthur is useful in this way- it 
will grow where many of the better crimsons 
fail. The blooms a*;e large, and good in 
shape. 

Reynolds Hole.—A most distinct shade 
of crimson-maroon. The plant grows freely, 
but, still, cut back trees do not produce 
blooms so fine as do “maidens.” 

Sultan of Zanzibar.—T his is most vivid 
in its shade of maroon, with a scarlet tinge. 
The petals are large, and the flower, too, but 
in hot seasons it is uncertain, although there is 
little difficulty in getting the plant to grow 
well. 

Victor Hugo is a grand, large-pet ailed 
kind of a most brilliant, colour, and with 
stronger growth than many of the dark sorts. 

Xavier Olibo is the darkest-coloured of 
Roses; very choice indeed when seen in its 
best. form. The petals are large, and have a 
striking velvety appearance. It is not, how¬ 
ever. a strong grower. A Rose like this, 
with the free growing and free-blooming 
qualities of one liHe Mrs. John Laing, would 
be worth a small fortune to the raiser. 

H. S. 


BOURSAULT ROSE AM ADIS. 

The Boursault Roses were at one time a 
tribe of much importance, but now they have 
dwindled down to two or three varieties. The 
subject of our note is a showy sort, early 
flowering, and very hardy. One may know 
how vigorous and hardy they are when it is 
remembered that Rose-growers at one time 
employed them as stocks for other Roses. 
A mad is flowers early in June, and its fine, 
thornless shoots and pretty foliage are ever 
welcome. The colour is a rich purplish- 
crimeon. Here and there a petal is lit. up 
with scarlet at the tip, but the prevailing 
shade is purplish-crimson. The blossoms are 
fairly large for such a free grower, and they 
are semi-double. Upon established plants 
we obtain a gorgeous effect which is very 
welcome before the great flood of Roses is 
upon us later in the month. 

This Rose would make a fine contrast to 
Waltham Bride and Mine. Alfred Carriere, 
two charming white Ramblers that are this 
year giving us such lovely wreaths of fragrant 
blossom, and they are most profuse in their 
flowering. There are four other sorts be¬ 
longing to the Boursault group that are worth 
growing. One is named Gracilis. It is of a 
cheery rosy-red colour, large, and fairly 
double, with most distinct foliage and wood. 
Another is Morletti, sometimes known as 
Mme. 8ancy de Parabere. This has beauti 
ful light rose flowers, shading to blush. It is 
semi-double and flat. The old Blush Bour¬ 
sault is a large semi-double of very irregular 
shape, but in effect exceedingly attractive. 
Their earliness is a distinct advantage. A 
variety I have seen at Kew in the Rose dell 
is worthy of being introduced. It is named 
Calypso, and has an immense flat semi-double 
bloom of soft satjn rose colour. All of the 


tribe are early flowering, a trait which they 
doubtless inherit from Rosa a! pin a, one of 
the first of the single Roses to open. 

W. X. 


NOTES AND BE PLIES. 

Mildew on Crimson Rambler Rose -My 

Crimson Ramblers are all over like enclosed sprays. 
Can you tell me what to do to them? They are a 
mass of flowers trying to come out. — Rcshford. 

[Your plants are eaten up with mildew - in 
fact, they are so bad that the blooms will 
never open. See remedies for and reply to 
“Novis, May 25th, p. 162. You say nothing 
as to the Raspberries to help us in any way.] 
Hybrid Tea Rose England’s Glory.— This 
is a free flowering, vigorous-growing variety, 
and a valuable addition to that class of Roses 
which is now employed so largely for garden 
adornment. The blooms, which are large 
and handsome, are supported on vigorous 
Footstalks; they are flesh-pink on the out¬ 
side, and of a deeper colour towards the 
centre. They last a considerable time in 
good condition. It is an excellent variety to 
employ to cover a wall with, and, if given a 
warm position, it. comes into flower in ad¬ 
vance of that grand old Rose Gloire de Dijon. 
As has already been stated, it is a vigorous 
grower, the wood made being very robust, 
while the foliage is bright and glossy-looking. 
So far, it is immune from mildew, and this 
in a season when this fungoid disease has 
been extremely troublesome on wall-grown 
Roses.—A. W. 

Rose Xavier Olibo.— Having noticed a re¬ 
mark (page 236) on the H.P. Rose Xavier 
Olibo not being very vigorous, and designated 
in the N.R.S. last official catalogue weak. I 
would like to record my experience of this 
Rose—not a very long one. I admit, because 
all my Roses were only planted last autumn. 
They are all dwarfs, and are grafted on 
Briers. This Rose I pruned fairly hard last 
spring, and over since it l>egan growing it 
looked n thoroughly healthy and vigorous 
Rose. Now ii lias four or five very stroqg 
shoots on it, tin* largest being between 2^ feet 
and 3 feet. Victor Hugo has formed one 
straight shoot 3 feel long, and Horace- Vernet 
is making sonic* good grow ths. These are not 
Brier suckers. 1 am quite sure. 1 should very 
much like to know whether anybody else has 
these Roses growing so strongly. The beds 
these* are in were made, as our soil is so light, 
but. in the case of some others, beds of one 
variety only—Corallina, Caroline Testout, 
Liberty, Frau Karl Druschki, and Canioens 
(the beautiful shoots these are sending up 
quite fascinate me)—the soil, which was mixed 
up with a great deal of mortar and brick 
rubbish, was merely manured.—V. X. O., 
Weybridge, S vrrty. 

Rose Paul L6d6.— This splendid Rose was 
found in the first prize collection at Rich¬ 
mond. which won for Messrs. F. Cant and 
Co. the trophy cup, and, as seen there, it 
was almost equal to Lady Rol>erts in colour 
and in form. Doubtless, many will say it is 
superior to Lady Roberts, inasmuch as the 
grow th is stiffer and sturdier, which proclaims 
it a true Hybrid Tea. As a standard, it is 
fine, making a large, spreading head—not. of 
course, so rampant as Mme. Juie»s Grave- 
reaux, but yet fairly vigorous. The long 
buds look well upon standards, their weight 
making them partly droop, and thus enabling 
one to see more clearly the grand apricot and 
orange colouring that is such a distinguishing 
feature of this Rose.- Rosa. 

A sweet-scented Wichuraiana Rose. 

There are not many of these lovely fast-grow¬ 
ing Roses that can be termed sweet-scented. 
Some possess a fair fragrance as of the Tea 
Rose, but one or two are especially sweet, 
including alba rubifolia. It has quite a large 
flower, very double, and pure white, with a 
curious green centre, which is not so ugly 
when the flower is fully developed os it is in 
the bud stage. Were it not for this defect, 
the Ro-se would be a splendid sort. Even as 
it is, the effect of a well-flowered pillar is ex¬ 
tremely showy. This Rose makes a fine com¬ 
panion to Ruby Queen, both blossoming to¬ 
gether about the third week in June, and, as 
they are also very fast growers, one may be 
assure^ of well-clothed pillars in two or three 
years from planting.—W. X. 

University of Illinois at 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


DIQII 





I 


July 20, 1007 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


209 



drainage and a position constantly moist, and 
shady. Either when grown in pots or when 
planted in the fernery, it is very necessary to 
keep the crowns of this Fern well above the 
surface of the soil, so as to prevent the 
water resting on them. 


FRUIT. 

STRAWBERRIES FAILING. 

In a Strawberry-bed made two years ago I planted 
Royal Sovereign and Sir Joseph Paxton. Sir Joseph 
Paxton entirely failed, with prodigious quantity of 
leaves and almost total failure of fruit on Royal 
Sovereign. I beg to inquire how you recommend 
that a new Strawberry-bed should be made, and what 
is considered the best manure for Strawberries?— 
KNQI'IRKR. 

[As you fail to state the nature of your 
soil and the kind of manure you employed 
when preparing the site for your Strawber¬ 
ries, we can only hazard the opinion that 
you made use of far too much stimulating 
food to render such very free-bearing 
varieties barren. In regard to your queries, 
we give you below a few general instruc¬ 
tions necessary to observe with respect 
to the successful cultivation of this fruit. 
The Strawberry succeeds best on a deep, 
fertile soil, and on such a bed will continue 
to bear profitable crops several years in 
succession. Such a 6oil is, however, not al¬ 
ways available, and when such is the case 
steps must be taken to render the condition 
of the staple, whatever it may be, as near 
like the above as is possible under the cir¬ 
cumstances. For instance, light sandy 
soils need an addition of pounded clay, cow- 
manure, or a good dressing of heavy loam or 
marl to make it cooler and more refcentivo 
of moisture. Soils inclined to be clayey need 
lightening with such materials as old hotbed 
manure and spent Mushroom-beds, and. in 
extreme cases, it becomes imperative to also 
add burnt, refuse or old mortar rubbish to 
ensure the necessary degree of porosity. The 
sweepings from roads, drives, and turf- 
parings from the sides of walks may also be 
used with advantage. For a good loamy soil 
of a medium texture, well rotted manure is 
the best, thing to employ. We have not so¬ 
cially mentioned gravelly soils, these needing 
the same treatment as those which are light 
and sandy. As regards the digging, much 
depends on whether the plot of ground has 
been trenched at. any previous time, because, 
if so, what is termed digging one spit deep 
will then suffice. If, on the contrary, the 
subsoil has not been disturbed, double dig¬ 
ging or bastard trenching is then necessary. 
This consists in opening a trench a yard in 
width and to the full length of the plot 
of ground, digging out the soil one spit 
deep and wheeling it away to the opposite 
end. Then give tne bottom of the trench a 
good dressing of manure, or whatever it is 
adjudged to be standing in need of, and dig 
it in, breaking up the soil reasonably fine 
while doing so. Then mark off another 
trench a yard wide, and, after manuring the 
soil, dig up the top spit and cast it on the 
subsoil in the first trench, loosening up the 
bottom of the trenoh with a fork after 
adding some manure. This, if properly 
done, will fill the opening up to rather 
above the surrounding level. Continue in 
this way until the whole plot has been dug 
over, and then allow a period of from four 
to six weeks to elapse, to allow the soil to 
sink into place before planting. It. is always 
wise, when trenching of this description has 
to bo done, to prepare the site some few 
months in advance, to allow of the soil be¬ 
coming somewhat consolidated, as on a too 
loose medium the plants would suffer severely 
from drought in a dry season. In all cases 
the surface should first he levelled and then 
trodden firm, after which the planting may 
be done either in beds containing half-a- 
dozen rows apiece, with 3-feet alleys between 
them, or in a succession of rows, standing 
2 feet 6 inches apart, with a distance of 2 feet 
between plant and plant all over the plot, 
this latter being the best method for general 
purposes. Medium growing sorts, such as 
V. H. de Thury, may be planted in rows 
2 feet asunder. As regards the time for 
planting, this is best done as early in August 
a9 circumstances allow; and if plants pre- 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


FERNS. 

FERNS FOR ELEVATED POSITIONS. 
Manv Ferns of a pendulous, semi pendulous, 
or spreading style of growth are 6een to far I 
greater advantage when occupying an elc- | 
vated position than if stood on an ordinary , 
stage in the greenhouse or stove. In fact, it I 
is the only way in which the charms of some 
of them can be displayed. Their require- I 
ments may be met either by mounting on a 
pedestal, as in the accompanying illustration [ 
of Goniophlebiuin subauriculatum, by grow¬ 
ing in suspended baskets, or in pockets | 
attached to the wall. In all these the main 
point in their cultivation is to see that they 
are at. no time allowed to suffer from want of 
water, which, from their position, is liable to 
happen, unless they are carefully attended 


j gloriosa, Nephrolepis davallioides furcans, N. 
elegantissima, N. tripinnatifida, N. todea- 
oides, Platveerium alcicorne, Pteris longi- 
folia Mariesi, P. inoluccana (large), P. serru- 
lata major erkstata, Woodwardia orientalis, 
VV. radicans (very wide spreading), W. radi- 
cans cristata. The Goniophlebiuin herewith 
illustrated will, when growing freely, pro¬ 
duce fronds from 5 feet to 8 feet long. X. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

The Wall Rue Spleenwort (Asplenium 
Ruta-muraiia), so called on account of the 
great resemblance of its small fronds to the 
lotaves of the common Rue, and also because 
it is rarely found growing anywhere but in 
the mortar on oJ.d walls, is a curious and very 
interesting Fern of particularly small dimen¬ 
sions, ana of a peculiar bluish colour, and 
distinct from all other British species. It is 


Goniophlebiuin uuhaurioulatum. Several of the fronds were 4A feet Ion". From a photograph sent by 
the Hon. Mrs. Monckton, Whitecairn, Wellington College Station, Berks. 


to. When planting Ferns in baskets, especial 
care must. lie taken that the basket itself is 
at first thoroughly lined with, if possible, 
flakes of Moss, as this serves not only to re 
tain moisture, but also prevents any of the 
soil making its way through. Failing Moss, 
for large baskets thinly-cut turves may bo 
used. For mounting on pedestals the plants 
may. of course, be put into pots in the ordi¬ 
nary way. The following is a good selection of 
Ferns suitable for the purposes above-named : 
Adiantum assimile, A. eaudatum, A. cunea- 
tum grandiceps, A. Edgeworthi, A. elegan- 
tissimum, Asplenium eaudatum^ (large 
grower), A. flabellifolium, A. flaccidum, A. 
longissimum (large), A. macrophyllum, 
Davallia bullata, D. dissecta, D. fijiensis, D. 
tenuifolia Veitchiana, Goniophlebium appen- 
diculatum, G. laohnopus, G. eubauriculatum 
(large grower), Gymnooramma schizotjhylla 

CjO gte 


mostly found in the southern and midland 
counties of England. From the quotation of 
Gerard, who says: — 

The Slone Rue groweth upon old walla near unto waters, 
wells, and fountains. I have found it upon the walls of 
Hartford Church, in Kent; also upon the walls of the 
churchyard of Sittingtiourne, in the same county ; and also 
upon the church walls of Rayleigh, in Essex, arid in divers 
other places, 

it will be seen that it was known ns one of 
our native B’crns by some of our earliest, 
botanists. It is a plant somewhat difficult 
to manage under cultivation, its removal from 
its native place being seldom attended with 
success. The best time to remove it is in 
April, as it only starts into growth about 
May, when it produces its young fronds, 
which remain green all through the winter. 
The Wall Rue requires free exposure to air, 
and a soil composed of rough lime rubbish, 
sand, and leaf-mould, with thorough good 



270 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Jlly 20, 1907 


viously layered into small pots arc employed, 
and watering, mulching, etc., are carefully 
attended to, a fair crop of extra fine fruit can 
be secured the first season.] 


RED SPIDER ON PEACH TREES. 

My orchard-house trees are attacked an sample. Please 
give name, cause, and best method of dealing with it. 

It seems to be infectious. The trees on one Ride of 
the house are worse than on the other —S. II. S. 

[The Peach leaves were swarming with red- 
spider when received, and on two of them we 
found what appeared to be minute specimens 
of mealy bug. We may be in error respect¬ 
ing this, but you may know at once whether 
this insect is present or not by their being 
covered with a white, downy substance. If 
the trees are infested with these insects, their 
presence is, no doubt, due to your having 
introduced some plant, or plants, at some 
time or other affected with them. All kinds 
of plants liable to mealy-bug infestation 
should always be rigorously excluded from 
fruit houses. Once this pest obtains a foot¬ 
ing, a great deal of trouble and anxiety is 
involved in getting rid of it, and. unfortu¬ 
nately, beyond syringing with an insecticide 
at the present moment, you cannot do any¬ 
thing until the fall of the leaf. Then, if you 
find you really have an attack of mealy-bug. 
you should, after giving the house a thorough 
cleansing, spray the young wood with soluble 
paraffin or paraffin emulsion, following this 
up by dressing all the main and subsidiary 
branchevs with the same insecticide, only in¬ 
stead of spraying apply it with a half worn 
out paint brush. With the latter you can the 
more easily work the insecticide into all the 
crevices of the bark, and, if thoroughly done, 
hut few, if any, of the insects can escape. If. 
when the trees start into growth again, any 
of the insects should put in an appearance, 
you can ini mediately despatch them by touch¬ 
ing them with a camel-hair pencil dipped in 
methylated spirit. With regard to red-spider 
—and this is a matter requiring immediate 
attention—thoroughly syringe the trees at 
once with a solution of XL All insecticide, 
mixing it according to the directions given 
on the bottle, and sec that both the upper and 
under surfaces of the leaves (particularly the 
latter) are wetted with it. Follow' this up 
next day with a copious and forcible syring¬ 
ing, using a garden engine, if you have one, 
and continue to wash the trees in this manner 
until the fruits begin to ripen, and resume 
it again after the crop is cleared. Another 
application of the before-mentioned insecti¬ 
cide may then be given with beneficial results. 
This same insecticide will also help to eradi¬ 
cate the mealy-bug now. To return, take 
steps next winter to thoroughly clean the 
lipuse with warm, soft-soapy water, with a 
little petroleum added, mid after the trees 
are tied to the trellis spray them with XL All. 
Then give all exposed portions of brickwork 
a good coating of limewash, adding u couple 
of fluid ounces of petroleum while the lime is 
slaking, and this will Kill off any of the in¬ 
sects that may be lurking in the courses and 
crevices of the wall. Then all will be clean 
and ready for a fresh start in the spring. 

As we have already stated the probable 
cause of mealv-htig being present—t.e., if such 
is the case—we may say. with regard to red- 
spider attack, that this is generally brought 
about through some cultural errors. Some¬ 
times it is introduced by taking in plants 
already infested with it, and not infrequently 
it may result from having forced Strawberries 
in the same house. A more general cause of 
its appearance in Peach-houses is in allowing 
the borders to become over-dry, and in main¬ 
taining a too hot nnd dry atmosphere within 
the structures. Whatever the cause, the 
attack, as soon ns discovered (the discoloured 
loaves at once denoting the presence of the 
insects), should at once be dealt with, and 
there is no better antidote than cold water 
forcibly and freely applied morning and after¬ 
noon, if the attack is not allowed to gain too 
great a headway. When you have discovered 
the cause of attack, take steps to avert a 
recurrence of the evil, by watering the border 
more frequently and copiously, or by afford¬ 
ing more air and damping down more fre¬ 
quently during the day in future ; and if you 
have plants in the house infested with these 
troublesome little insects, remove them e|ser 

Digitized by CjCD '^lC 


where. Finally, spare no effort in eradica¬ 
ting the pest, otherwise the leaves will fall 
prematurely, as a result of the juices having 
wen extracted from them, to the great detri¬ 
ment of the trees.] 


NOTES AND BE PLIES. 

Apple trees not fruiting.—I shall be much 
obliged if you can give me any reason for the failure 
of my you ns fruit-trees to bear? There was a great 
deal of blossom, but it has all fallen off the same as 
the enclosed. They are standard trees, and have 
been planted about five years, but I have never had 
any fruit. l>o they require much pruning? — K. R. 

[Wo do not quite understand whether you 
mean that the blossoms were shod by the 
tree without setting, or that the spur bearing 
the truss of bloom fell off, because, if the 
latter, some insect must have caused the 
damage. In the absence, therefore, of par¬ 
ticulars bearing on thin point, we are unable 
to say what particular insect it would be. 
If, as we surmise, you mean that the blos¬ 
soms failed to set and develop fruit, we think 
the inclement weather experienced during 
the blossoming period was the cause of fail¬ 
ure, and this, no doubt, was the cause of your 
disappointment in former seasons. The 
piece of spur-wood you send is perfectly 
healthy, the leaves are well developed, and 
we arc, therefore, unable to assign any other 
reason for the failure than that stated. If 
standard trees are relieved of all cross or 
misplaced brandies, and the remainder cut 
back to about one-half or two thirds their 
length the first winter after planting, assum¬ 
ing the trees arc planted in the autumn, 
the foundation of the tree is, so to speak, 
formed at the outset. Then, if they are 
looked over annually—say, for the next three 
or four seasons—spurring back all super¬ 
fluous growths, and shortening hack some¬ 
what the leading growths on the main 
branches, and tipping 6uch as are left to form 
subsidiary brandies also, they should re¬ 
quire but little pruning the fifth year after 
planting. You do not state if your trees 
have been pruned, and in case they have 
not. we advise you to consult an experienced 
mail, and have them seen to this coming 
autumn. Trees left unpruned for that, length 
of time require special treatment, and it 
would lie somewhat difficult to give precise 
instructions as to how this (should be done 
without seeing the trees : hence the reason 
for advising you to employ a man practically 
acquainted with the pruning of fruit-trees.] 

Apple trees in bad health. I am sending here 
with a piece of a branch from an Apple-tree (Keswick 
Codlin) in my orchard, and should be grateful for 
any information concerning the disease affecting the 
leaves? Most of the Apple-trees are affected by it. 
some very badlv. I have thought the cold winds 
must, have something to do with it.—J. 8. Arnold. 

[Your trees arc either suffering from an 
attack of a fungoid pest called Brown-rot 1 
(Sclerotinia fruc-tlgena), or arc infected with 
the larvae of the pith-moth (Laverna atra), 
but most probably the former, as there are 
no visible eigne of injury in the pith of the 
samples of wood you send us. Brown-rot 
appears to be unusually prevalent this sea¬ 
son, owing, no doubt, to the weather being 
so wet and cold, and it is, we fear, causing 
a great deal of damage among fruit-trees. 
It is one of those pests where little can be 
done at the present moment, and that little 
consists in going carefully over the affected 
trees, and, with a sharp knife, cutting hack 
every diseased shoot and spur to a point 
where the wood is living and quite free from 
disense. Burn the pieces of wood so re¬ 
moved at. once, as they will be the means of 
snreading the fungus if they are allowed to 
lie about on the ground. Prune in good time 
next winter, and spray the trees as soon as 
this is completed with the caustic wash so 
often mentioned in the columns of this jour¬ 
nal, both then, and again towards the end of 
January. Force the wash into the crevices 
of the bark on both stems and branches bv 
holding the sprayer close up to them, and 
then, just as the trees are about to break into 
growth, spray with Bordeaux mixture, and 
repeat it before the trees come into bloom. 
If the ground is cultivated beneath the trees, 
see that it is kept perfectly clean, and afford 
the surface a dressing of air-slaked lime im¬ 
mediately the digging is completed. You 
might also, by way of experiment, give opp 


tree a thorough dusting with freshly-slaked 
lime, smothering every portion of stem, 
branch, and twiggy growth with it. This is 
host, done while the tree is damp after rain 
or fog, so that the lime will adhere to the 
hark, and at any time while the tree is in a 
dormant condition. The above-mentioned 
advice as to the removal of dead and dying 
wood, etc., will also hold good in case the 
trees have been attacked by the pith-moth.] 


Apples for sunny wall —I have a sunny wall, 
o0 yards long, ttj feet. high, facing south. I propose 
t,o build a wire net frame the whole length, and 
plant Plum, Pear, and Apple-trees as espaliers. How 
many trees should I plant in this length of wall, or. 
in other words, how far apart should the trees he? 
Please state also the names of the fruit-trees you 
would recommend? Would October or November be 
about the best time to plant them?—A pples. 


[A wall 60 yards in length will afford ac¬ 
commodation for 12 espalier-trained trees, 
planted at 15 feet apart, which is the regu¬ 
lation distance for planting fruit-trees of this 
description. The first, and last tree should 
be planted 7 feet 6 inches distant from either 
end of the wall, and then the remainder 
will stand 15 feet apart. With regard to the 
kinds of fruits to plant, and seeing that the 
total number of trees is very limited, we do 
not think you can do better than select an 
equal number of Pear6, Apples, and Plums, 
or, say, four of each. If you care for Cher¬ 
ries, you may include them, when you would 
be able to have three trees of each kind of 
fruit. We must, however, point out that 
you would be unable to obtain Plums and 
Cherries trained ns espaliers, as they are not 
so adapted for training in this way as are the 
Apples and Pears, for instance. You would 
have to purchase fan-trained trees in this 
case, nnd as the wall is a dwarf one, instead 
of training the branches out straight, bend 
an equal number of them round to the right 
and the same to the left, so that, when fas¬ 
tened to the wall, the training will repre¬ 
sent a modified form of horizontal or espalier 
training. In this form we have seen trees 
bear remarkably fine crops of fruit. As to 
varieties, four good Apples are Ribston, 
Cox’s Orange, Scarlet Nonpareil. James 
Grieve: of Pears. Williams’ Bon Chretien, 
Louise Bonne of Jersey, Doyenne du Comice, 
and Josephine do Malines. The last-named 
ripens in January, so that, if you lack 
means for storing fruit, substitute for it Pit 
maston Duchess, which should succeed well 
with you. Four good Plums are Rivers’ 
Early Prolific. Denniston’s Superb. Jeffer¬ 
son, Late Transparent Gage: of Cherries, 
Rivers’ Early, May Duke, Archduke, Bigar- 
reau Napoleon. We have named four Cher¬ 
ries in case you should wish to grow then 
instead of Plums. In selecting the above, 
we have assumed that it is dessert fruit you 
desire in all cases. In regard to your last 
query, we are unable to recommend any 
firm, and must refer you to our advertising 
columns, where you will find the names of 
nurserymen who make a speciality of fruit- 
tree growing.] 


Apricots on west wall.— If growers would 
but give Apricots a trial on a west wall I am 
convinced they would not regret it. Other 
walls are as valuable as the south wall, and 
I lately noticed what fine crops of Peaches 
Mr. Mayne had at Bicton on walls facing 
east. I also remember “W. S.” pointing out 
in Gardening Illustrated the value of 
west walls for many things. Some years ago, 
when moving some trees, I resolved to plant 
an Apricot on a high west wall of my cot¬ 
tage. A narrow border at the foot was 
deeply worked, and good soil, with plenty of 
calcareous material in it. added. The border 
was only 6 feet wide, with a gravel path ad¬ 
joining. Here I planted a Heinskirk Apri¬ 
cot-tree, which grew awav rapidly, quickly 
covering the wall 20 feet high. Thi6 gave me 
grand crops for several years, when it died 
suddenly. When this was removed, it was 
replaced (after changing the soil) by another 
tree, which, at the close of five years, has 
covered the wall, and has this season an 
enormous crop on it. This wall is protected 
with an overhanging roof, about 18 inches 
wide. The crop is generally good, and quite 
as reliable as from a south wall. The longer 
I have to do with Apricots the more I believe 
in a bard, dry Tooting medium.—J. C., Forde 


1 Abbey. * ii 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



July 20, 1007 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


2?i 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 

STYRAX OBASSIA. 

The subject of this note is a hardy and hand 
some flowering shrub, introduced from Japan 
in 1888. It was discovered by Mr. Maries, 
who was collecting for Messrs. James Veitch 
and Sons, of Chelsea. It forms a free-grow¬ 
ing shrub, or, rather, small tree, and has 
handsome foliage, the cordate leaves being 
8 inches across and deep green in colour. 
The white, somewhat bell-shaped, flowers are 
borne in erect racemes, 6 inches to 8 inches 
in length, and are furnished with yellow 
stamens ; they are also possessed of a deli¬ 
cate fragrance. In May, when the plants 
are in bloom, a large bush covered with white 
’ flowers is an exceedingly pretty sight. The 
blossoms are from 1 inch to IV inch in 
diameter. It is a rare plant in gardens, and 
many fine collections are without it, but its 
beauty, when in flower, and its handsome 
foliage render it worthy 
of extended culture. One 
reason for its rarity is, 
doubtless, the fact that 
it has proved difficult to 
propagate. Another or¬ 
namental member of the 
same family is 
9. japonica, which w as 
introduced in 1868. This 
is better known than the 
preceding, being easily 
propagated. Its usual 
habit is that of a much- 
branched shrub, with 
slender, wiry stems, 
clothed with deep green 
ovate leaves. The 
branches grow in a some 
what flattened manner, 
which shows off the 
flowers to the best ad¬ 
vantage. The blossoms; 
which are white, and 
much resemble those of 
S. Obassia, except that 
they are rather smaller, 
are bell-shaped, and de¬ 
pend from racemes on 
the undersides of the 
6hoots. It is a very free 
flowerer, and the blooms 
are sometimes in the 
autumn succeeded by 
seed-pods which form an 
attractive feature. It is 
much planted by the 
Japanese in the neigh¬ 
bourhood of their 
temples, owing to the 
profusion of its pure 
white, scented blossoms. 

Both these species should 
be in every collection of 
flowering shrubs. 

8. W. Fitzherbert. 


think it more than likely that this Vetch- 
leaved Sophora from China will win for itself 
a similar position among hardy shrubs for 
the lawn side ami border .—The Field. 


EFFECTS OF SOIL ON RHODO¬ 
DENDRONS. 

To say that these will grow in one part of a 
garden and fail in other parts may seem 
curious, but such is the case with me. I can 
show in some parts of the garden kinds that 
would compare favourably with those growing 
in the home of Rhododendrons—Bagshot and 
Knaphill—while in other positions the same 
sorts linger and die. Some eighteen years 
ago, on taking charge of this place, the then 
owner was much perplexed at this, and con¬ 
fessed he could not understand it. Some 
plants that were in bad health were taken up 
and new soil, free from all calcareous sub¬ 
stance, brought from a distance, and many new 
plants added, with the result that these were 


* S 


Sophora viciifolia.— 

This is a delightful little 
hardy shrub—at any rate, 
it has stood in an ex¬ 
posed position on an 
open lawn at Kew with¬ 
out any protection for 
three years, and is now a well-furnished bush 
4 feet high and 5 feet through, which at the 
present moment is covered with bunches of 
beautiful blue and white flowers, the blue 
colour predominating. It is one of the 
best of the numerous good garden shrubs 
that have been introduced within the last ten 
years from China, and we are indebted to 
Dr. Henry for having forwarded seeds of it 
to Kew in 1898 from the Province of Hupeh. 
It is also a native of Thibet, forming, accord 
ing to Mr. Pratt, large breadths in barren 
soils at elevations of from 9,000 feet to 
13,000 feet on the frontier. It has been de¬ 
scribed as a low, much-branched, spinescent 
shrub, 2 feet to 4 feet high, with small pin¬ 
nate leaves, which are deciduous, and flowers 
on short, erect racemes at the end of the axil¬ 
lary growths formed in spring, each raceme 
comprising about a dozen flowers. Sophora 
japonica we all know 
of the handsomest 


l dozen flowers. Sophora 
ow arfuPaporeci ate sis one 
of yuijl^ujly 


Styrax Obassia 


in about the same condition as the old ones in 
five years. Two of the beds still remain, but 
not a healthy hybrid kind can be found. 

The cause of the failure arises From the beds 
being at the foot of some hilly ground which 
contains lime. The wa*er from this drains 
into the beds, charging the soil with the lime. 
The new soil which was added became in time 
of the same nature as the old. In proof of 
this, the plants in one bed the farthest removed 
from the hill and more on I he level, are not 
so much affected, the plants struggling on 
much longer and not so bad in colour. Re¬ 
cently I observed the same thing at Cricket 
St. Thomas. Some years ago many fine plants 
were purchased from a firm that grows them 
in loamy soil, but in a few years they became 
sick, and many now arc worthless. 

In another portion of the pleasure grounds 
1 ere we have some plants in the best of health, 
the surroundingsoil being free from lime. These 
are on level ground that is of a sandy loam, and 


where no water can reach them, except from the 
clouds. They have been in this position for thirty' 
years and are from 10 feet to 15 feet across, 
and as high. They have never had a dressing 
or any stimulant of any kind in that time. 
This last spring they were magnificent, one, 
Lady Eleanor Cathcart, being literally covered 
with bloom. I am convinced many could 
grow Rhododendrons in places where they are 
condemned if they studied the surroundings. 
In proof of this, some plants with me refuse to 
grow near a pond within 100 yards of those 
named above. The water inthepond ccmes from 
t he surrounding hills and is charged with lime. 
When Rhododendrons are recommended to be 
planted by' ponds the nature of the water 
should be first considered. Some may' say 
R. pontieum thrives in these positions; true, 
but the hybrid kinds, the bright red kinds 
especially, often die in such a position. 

J. Crook. 

Fordc Abbey Gardens , Chard. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Bay-trees in poor condition (A. S. Bicb 

ncll ).—As the roots of your Bay-trees are in 
good condition, we arc inclined to think that 
the shabby appearance of the trees is, to a 
great extent, due to their being starved and 
unable to make their natural growth. This 
may. to a great extent, be remedied if the 
plants arc, throughout the growing season, 
watered about once a fortnight with soot- 
water and weak liquid-manure mixed, but, un¬ 
fortunately, the greater part of the season is 
now past. There is, however, time to benefit 
the trees to a certain extent this year, and 
another season you might begin this treat¬ 
ment early in March. They should be given 
enough water during the winter to keep the 
soiL fairly moist, but, of course, less will be 
needed than is required throughout the 
summer. 

Mock Orange (Pliiladelphus coronarius).— 
This shrub ought to be planted more in place 
of so many Laurels and common evergreens. 
We have a large plant growing in a sunny 
position in our pleasure grounds. This has 
for a background some old trees of the com¬ 
mon Yew sweeping the ground. The Mock 
Orange is standing in front of these, having 
an open space all round it. It is 12 feet to 
15 feet across, and about as much high. This 
year, in the first half of June, when in bloom, 
it was lovely. Another lovely kind is P. 
Gordonianus. In many ways this eclipses the 
foregoing, and I know of no more lovely shrub 
when in bloom than this. One needs the two 
kinds, seeing coronarius is over before P. 
Gordonianus comes into bloom. P. Gor¬ 
donianus is a strong growing kind, making 
shoots from 9 feet to 12 feet in one season. 
This kind is most useful to cut long shoots 
from for vases, seeing the perfume is not 
strong or offensive.— Dorset. 

Spiraea confusa.— One of the finest of 
forcing shrubs for the early spring months is 
this pretty shrubby Spiraea, and it is equally 
pleasing as an outdoor shrub. A visit paid to 
Blaise Castle, Henbury, Gloucestershire, 
during the month of May revealed the beau¬ 
ties of this shrub in the highest degree. The 
bushes, of which there were several, growing 
on an elevated border having a western 
aspect, appeared as solid masses of snow- 
white ; the blossom, indeed, was so dense 
that the foliage was quite concealed. In 
growth it is somewhat upright, small in leaf, 
and neat of habit, but when laden with the 
myriads of tiny flower clusters the shoots 
are borne over in graceful, arching sprays. 
These facts, together with the ease with which 
it may be forced, renders it of the greatest 
value for the greenhouse in the new year. 
It has also the merit of being amenable to 
continuous pot culture, when it is attended 
to during the summer and autumn outdoors. 
It is distinctly more effective as a small than 
as a large bush, especially when, as in the 
Blaise Castle instance, the plants are so 
densely flowered.—W. S. 


Index to Volume XXVIII. —The binding covers 
(price Is. 6d. each, post free; Is. $>d.) and Index (3d., 
post free, 3Jd.) for Volume XXVIII. are now ready, 
and may be had of all newsagents, or oT the Pub¬ 
lisher, post free, 2s. for the two. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 









July 20. 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


VEGETABLES. 

NOTES ON CABBAGE. 

While complaints reach me from various 
quarters about Cabbage “bolting.” as it is so 
often termed, I am more than pleased to state 
that not a single plant in our large bed here 
has so behaved. The seed was sown on the 
8th of August, the seedlings kept well watere'd 
as soon as through the soil, pricked out into 
nursery lines when large enough to handle, 
and eventually transplanted to the ground 
that, had been cleared of spring-sown Onions. 
Previous to that, a sowing was made on July 
the 7th. These came in for use during the 
latter part of October, lasting well on to 
Christmas, the variety being Sutton’s Flower 
of Spring in both instances, truly a grand 
Cabbage for sowing about the dates above 
mentioned. This season two other varieties 
will be included with the one alluded to, so 
that a comparison may be made as to the 
merits of the trio. Sow the seed quite in an 
open part, of the garden, so that the plants 
may receive every bit of light, air, and sun¬ 
shine possible, thus strengthening them so 
that they may be able to withstand the vari¬ 
ableness of our seasons. Another point worth 
emphasising is this : Set out your plants on 
firm ground, such as the Onion plot provides. 
I merely take out a narrow trench with the 
mattock, about 6 inches deep, the soil being 
levelled down with the flat hoe before we ex¬ 
perience much hard frost, which seldom 
comes until after the new year. I used to 
grow Coleworts, but consider a good variety 
of ordinary Cabbage sown at intervals from 
early March up to the first week in August, 
far before them during late summer and early 
winter. Do not let the birds dig up the seed¬ 
lings, which they are very fond of doing, more 
especially in dry weather. A dusting with 
lime, soot, and wood-ashes will generally 
defy them, if done carefully, and at intervals 
of a few days, until they are out of harm’s 
way, these dustings also baffling slugs, which 
quickly clear the tender plants, if left un¬ 
cared for Jong. 

Bicton, Devon. J. Maynk. 


LETTUCES IN SPRING. 


With a few warm days there comes a demand 
for Lettuces, and to have good white heads 
early in May in the open needs considerable 
attention. 1 am aware it is easy enough to 
have some of those large-leaved Cabbage 
kinds that do well enough for those who like 
a salad of any kind. But if a nice tender 
salad is wanted, then Lettuces that give a 
good white head must be grown. ‘ Nothing 
equals a good white Cos Lettuce for flavour, 
although many prefer Cabbage kinds. In 
many gardens there is considerable difficulty 
in keeping plants in the open, and this is 
especially so with us in the west. This did 
not deter me from trying, by working into 
the borders large quantities of rough ashes 
and charcoal from sulphur fires, but I have 
always had, even with this treatment, many 
losses. For years I have departed from the 
usual custom, and made my last sowing early 
in October, in boxes, allowing the seedlings 
to remain in a sunny place in the open as 
late as possible, when they are placed on a 
high shelf in a cold-house. Here they keep 
moving through the winter, and by the end 
of January they are large enough to be 
pricked out into a frame or into boxes. I use 
boxes, placing them in a cold-frame, keeping 
them close for a few days, hardening them off 
ns soon as the weather permits. When large 
enough, these are planted out at the foot of 
a warm south wall in good rich soil. This 
year I had grand heads of All the Year Round 
bv the first of May. with Hick’s Cos a week 
or ten days later. These and Perfect Gem 
are the only kinds I grow in this way. I sovV 
Stanstead Park and Black-seeded Bath Cos in 


the open in autumn, but obtain by far the 
lest results from those wintered in boxes. 
Those having only a cold-pit or frame can do 
equally well if they place the boxes on four 
pots, 8 inches high, for the winter, putting 
lime or ashes round them, to prevent slugs 
reaching them. Some may think that by 
sowing early in th^’ear the I/eUuces could 
he had as early. Bu t t* i i• - jy> u. I can 


find nothing to equal a good stock of Hick’s 
Cos for all seasons. Bath Cos is of fine 
flavour, but this is objected to by green 
grocers, etc., on account of its colour. 

Dorset. 


THE POTATO CROP. 

Already, the first week in July, rumours of 
the disease in the haulm are heard on all sides, 
and should the cold, dripping season con¬ 
tinue, it will not be long before it reaches the 
tuber. We are lifting Sutton’s Nonsuch and 
Sir J. Llewellyn. The latter is decidedly the 
better eating.' but so many w f eak plants ap¬ 
pear in a row that one is half inclined to dis¬ 
card the variety. Sutton’s Seedling, I think, 
is worse than this—a most patchy plot, and 
new seed from the rector of the parish, too. 
On the other hand. Discovery is looking 
grand, and I am counting on a heavy crop of 
fine-shaped tubers from this. Eldorado is 
satisfactory, so far as growth is concerned, 
but unless the crop is an improvement on that 
of last year it will be relegated to the rubbish 
heap. Sharpe’s Express and Victor look 
well, but are not yet being lifted, as I want 
to save most of the tubers for seed. Duke of 
York and Duchess of Cornwall look promis¬ 
ing. 1 am trying the latter in the field, as it 
proved so strong with me in the garden la6t 
year. The Factor, Scottish Triumph, and 
Up to Late all promise well, so it is to be 
hoped drier and warmer weather will soon set 
in, or the Potato crop will be in jeopardy. 

Devonian. 


NOTES AND BE PLIES. 

Onion mildew. — Please tell me what is the 
matter with the Onions enclosed. One-fourth of the 
bed lias gone like the sample sent. Harden has been 
well manured and is in good condition. I have not 
used lime for a few years. Do yoti think the other 
Onions on the bed will go the same way?— Wkkkin. 

[Your Onion-plants are affected with the 
Onion mould or mildew, by no means an un¬ 
common disease with Onions in various stages 
of growth, but not commonly seen in plants 
so young as yours. It is, possibly, in your 
case, due largely to the cold, wet season, as 
cold is a great, generator of such diseases. 
Manuring has little to do with this trouble, 
as we have seen it on Onions on all sorts of 
soils, rich and poor. The best remedy—in¬ 
deed, the only one, so far us is known—is the 
sulphate of copper and lime soLution. Get 
1 lb. of well crushed sulphate of copper or 
bluestone, tie it loosely into a piece of 
coarse canvas, and place in a wooden tub, into 
which are put to dissolve it two gallons of 
boiling water. In a pail dissolve * lo. of lime. 
When that is clear, pour it into the tub with 
the other. Also dissolve in boiling water 
l lb. of soft soap, and add that to the other, 
and nlso three gallons of water. With 
that using a spraying syringe, gently spray 
the Onions; repeating the dressing a fortnight 
later. It is always more difficult to deal with 
Onions than with other plants, because of the 
erect, round form of the leafage the liquid 
does not lie on it so readily as on ordinary 
leafage. For that reason it is needful to intro¬ 
duce the soft soap to make it adhesive. 

If the Onions be gently sprinkled with soapy 
water, and then be thoroughly dusted with 
flowers of sulphur, that may check the fun¬ 
gus, as sulphur is a potent fungicide. Hither¬ 
to we have rarely found remedies to check 
this mildew, but it has mostly shown itself 
later ip the season. One way, as a rule, to 
avoid this trouble where it is very prevalent 
is to sow seeds of the customary spring varie¬ 
ties at the end of August, as bulbs ripening 
in July will keep for several months. The 
Tripolis, or Roccas, are of no use to keep, 
as they soon decay.] 

Leeks. —Get these planted out at once, 
either into trenches prepared as for Celery 
or planting them 6 inches deep with a dibber, 
with just a dash of soil to cover the roots, 
the hole to be filled in with the flat hoe later 
on. Last year my Leeks did not do so well 
as usual, though given the same treatment as 
before. The dry summer may have had some¬ 
thing to do with it, yet it puzzled me not a 
little. To grow good Leeks, plenty of good 
manure must he at the roots, and' frequent 
applications of manure water given. If in 
trenches, the soil must Is* brought in gradu¬ 
ally, first making sure the roots are right as 
regards moisture.—J. M. 


GARDEN WORK. 

Conservatory. Hard-wooded plants will 
now be outside, sheltered from strong winds, 
on coal-ash l>eds, to keep worms cut of the 
pots. All Chrysanthemums, including these 
intended for very late blooming, should now 
be in the flowering pots. Raising seedlings is 
a simple matter, and if the seeds are sown in 
February in heat, pricked off, the seedlings 
started separately, and shifted on into 
6-inch pots, they will carry one good flower, 
and prove both interesting and useful, especi¬ 
ally for grouping, as seedling plants generally 
retain healthy foliage up to the last. There 
is the chance, though a remote one, of obtain¬ 
ing something worth keeping, but, apart from 
that. Chrysanthemums may produce- useful 
decorative subjects when treated as annuals. 
Where large flowers are wanted true to form 
and colour, second crown-buds are best. 
There will be a good deal of tying to do. as 
wind has a shattering effect if the plants are 
exposed. Do not over water recently potted 
plants. Look over Salvias and other things 
planted outside, with the view to lifting in 
September, and stop strong-growing shoots 
as the dull, damp weather is giving an impe¬ 
tus to growth that will be as well checked. 
Winter-flowering plants should have every 
attention now, especially such useful subjects 
as Begonia Gloirc de Lorraine. Keep them 
moving now, and shift into larger pots when 
necessary. Turfy loam, leaf-mould, and 
peat—the half, at least, to be loam, made 
sufficiently porous with sand—will grow these 
and other winter-flowering plants welL All 
these things will do now in a low pit, kept 
reasonably close for a time, and afterwards 
hardened by exposure. 

Cucumbers in frames.— Keep the growth 
thin, and pinch all young shoots one leaf 
beyond the fruit. Cut all fruits when large 
enough for use. A top-dressing of good loam 
and manure will be helpful now. Give water 
when required to settle it down, and the roots 
will 60 on work into the top-dressing. Venti¬ 
late early in the morning, at the back of the 
frame, and make use of the sunshine by clos¬ 
ing early in the afternoon, after sprinkling 
with water which has stood in the sun all 
day. Do without shade, as far as possible, 
though if we ever get bright weather again 
a little shade in the middle of the day may 
l>e useful, if the plants appear distressed. 
So long as the leaves keep fresh do not 
shade. Red-spider may be kept down by 
closing early with a saturated atmosphere. 

Late Melons In frames. If the heat de¬ 
clines too much, place linings of warm manure 
round the bed, though if we get warm weather, 
with bright, eun, this may not be necessary. 
Set the crop, as far ns possible, all together, 
otherwise one or two fruits inay get the lead 
and the others fail to swell. Four good fruits 
on a plant., except in the case of small-fruited 
varieties, may be enough. Stop all laterals 
when the fruits are set. The main leaves 
are the most important, and these should be 
kept healthy and vigorous. Melons, if the 
ventilation is right, should not require shad¬ 
ing. A little ventilation along the back of 
the frame, as soon as the sun shines full 
upon it, will keep the foliage strong and 
healthy. Do not water near tne main 6tem. 
Close early in the afternoon—say, about 3.30 
or 4 p.m. 

An item in Pine culture.- Occasionally a 
plant or two may refuse to ehow r fruit at the 
proper time. The best way we have found of 
dealing with these is to disroot, cutting away 
a piece of the bottom of the root stem, re¬ 
moving at the same time several of the bot¬ 
tom leaves, and dropping the plants deeper 
into the pots and using fresh, turfy loam, 
suitably enriched with mammal matters, 
potting firmly and then plunging in bottom 
heat, keeping the 6oil just moist, and the 
atmosphere moist, and close, shading if the sun 
is bright. Then roots will form higher up 
the buried stems in a few days, and the check 
of disrooting will throw the plants into fruit. 
Feeding the fresh, young roots will push the 
fruits on rapidly. 

Gathering Peaches. If required for 

travelling, gather before quite ripe. A little 
force appl ied by the -pressure of the fingers 



Jli.t 20, 1007 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


273 


at the back of the fruits will cause them to 
part from the stalk without showing a finger 
mark, as the fruits are quite firm at the back. 

Value of the main leaves to Vines.— The 
inaiu leaves are the best workers, and, if they 
are numerous enough to form a good canopy 
over the fruit, do not permit the sublaterals 
to interfere with their work. One may judge 
from the substance and size of the main 
leaves what the character of the Grapes will 
l>e when ripe, and they indicate also the con¬ 
dition of the roots. Jf the leaves are firm 
and good, and mounted on short, substantial 
footstalks, we may reasonably conclude both 
roots and foliage are doing their work well. 
Ventilation just now is the first and most im¬ 
portant item of culture, and second only is 
the question of feeding by rich top-dressings 
on the surface. 

Potting: Strawberries for forcing. Two- 
thirds rather heavy loam, and the other third 
made up of old manure, a little bone-meal, 
soot, a dash of old mortar, with, perhaps, a 
email quantity—not exceeding 1 lb. per 
bushel—of artificial plant food, alL well 
blended together, make a good compost. 
Pot firmly, and keep the. crown of the plant 
up so that the foliage rests on the surface 
of the soil. Use 6-inch pots, well drained. 

Ferns In the house.- -There ought to be no 
difficulty in keeping these plants in health 
now, but if Ferns are purchased, do not buy 
those plants which have reached their full 
limit of growth, and are beginning to go off a 
little at the base. Choose plants which have 
still some growth to make, and are capable 
of doing it, and the plants will last through 
the summer. 

Outdoor garden.— The budding of Roses. 
Thorns, and other ornamental shrubs should 
be moved rapidly forward now the bark works 
freely. Everybody with a garden should 
learn to propagate all the shrubs and plants 
it- contains. Some failures will, probably, be 
met with at first, but perseverance, in this, 
as in all other things, has its reward. Layer¬ 
ing quite as important a means of propa¬ 
gation as grafting or budding. At this season 
layering is thought, by some, to apply only 
to Carnations, hut many things besides Car¬ 
nations may be layered now. The Clematis 
family is usually grafted, and that is one 
reason why so many plants die; but layering 
now will give better results, so far as length 
of life is concerned. Wistarias may be 
layered now, and any other plant difficult to 
strike from cuttings. There is work to do in 
Pegging down straggling plants, and staking 
others which ought to be kept in an erect 
position. Do not permit a weed to grow either 
in the lawn or in beds or walks. This, of 
course, means incessant effort, hut it brings 
satisfaction with it. 

Fruit garden. —Do not plant Strawberries 
in loose, recently manured ground. Such 
plants grow freely, but do not ripen the 
crowns, and are barren, or blind, as it is 
termed. There is no better way of prepar¬ 
ing for Strawberries than trenching the land 
up and manuring it in winter and taking a 
crop of early Potatoes off it. Give a light top¬ 
dressing of short stuff after the Potatoes come 
off in July. Fork it in, and then plant the 
Strawberries, after giving the surface a good 
treading. There has been some discussion 
lately about the value of summer pruning 
fruit-trees. Of course, no one will summer 
prune orchard trees, but all trees grown on 
walls or under any restriction of growth 
should have the young shoots thinned and 
shortened. If all the wood made by a trained 
or restricted tree during summer is to be left 
till the winter pruning, there will be trouble 
in the future. At the same time, do not be in 
a hurry to prune such trees as Apples and 
Pears. Leave them till the wood is getting a 
little firm at the base. The end of this month 
is generally a suitable time. 

Vegetable garden. -In consequence of the 
almost constant showers, growth is rampant, 
and if there comes a sudden period of dryness, 
we must be prepared to mulch such things as 
Peas, Cauliflowers, Lettuces, etc. Peas want 
sunshine to fill the pods, but to obtain a 
second crop from Marrow Peas all pods should 
Ik- gathered as soon as qld enough to use. 
Vegetable Marrows al<^>snmiLl be uu w^en 
young, or production c %scf ^ B taflgfcans 


are cut down and mulched when alL the pods 
are gathered, the plants will break out from 
the bottom ami produce a good second crop. 
Late Broccoli may still be planted, if the 
plants are strong. Draw earth up to the 
stem of the first planted lot. Continue the 
planting of Celery. Blanch the early rows 
with paper and soil. Start with paper first, 
and finish off with soil. Weeds must be kept 
down, or they will ruin everything. Dress 
Asparagus beds with artificial manure to 
strengthen the crowns. 

E. IIobday. 


THE COMING WEEK’S WORK. 

Extracts from a Garden Diary. 

duty 22nd. In summer-pruning fruit-trees 
Plums and Cherries have been gone over, 
and the breast wood shortened to four leaves. 
Morello Cherries trained on walls are dis¬ 
budded and thinned the same ns Peaches, 
and we are now ready to begin upon the 
Pears and Apples. AIL the weakest shoots, 
where the spurs are crowded, are cut clean 
out, as they are yseless, and will do harm by 
overcrowding the foliage. Other shoots not 
required for laying in are shortened to four 
leaves. 

July 23rd. —Budding and layering are mak¬ 
ing good progress, as the weather is suitable. 
A few leaves have been shortened back in 
Tom a to-houses, where the fruits are ripening. 
A mulch of Moss litter manure has been 
placed on the surface, in which the roots 
are working. This saves labour in watering. 
All surplus growth is removed promptly, and 
in span-roofed house, where the plants arc 
trained up till they meet under the ridge, the 
leaders are stopped. 

^ July 2jth. —Made a sowing of winter' 
Spinach and a further sowing of Turnips and 
Lettuces, including hardy kinds. Cleared an 
early Cucuml>cr-hou6e. The clearance is very 
effectually done ; nothing is left to harbour 
insects, and the paint will be scrubbed with 
soap and water, and the walls washed over 
with a mixture of lime and sulphur. Cucum¬ 
ber seeds will be sown to raise young plants 
to grow on for autumn and early winter use, 
when the frame supply' is over. 

July 25th.— Made a first sowing of Cab¬ 
bages (early kinds chiefly), which includes 
Ellam’s Early and Enfield Market, an old, 
but, when true, still useful variety. A further 
sowing will lie made first week in August. 
These dates suit our district. In the north, 
sow a few days earlier, and later in the south. 
Celery for main crop is still being planted ; 
red kindvs chiefly now. Shifted on a lot of 
seedling Asparagus Sprengeri and A. plu- 
mosus. 

July 2Gth. —Early Potatoes are being lifted, 
and the ground will be prepared for Straw¬ 
berries. The ground was trenched and 
manured in the winter, and with a further 
top-dressing and a fork over, and, when dry, 
trodden to give the necessary firmness, will 
be in good condition for planting. More 
Strawberry plants are selected than are re¬ 
quired for potting, and the surplus is used for 
making new beds outside, the result being a 
good crop first season. 

July 27th.— Seedling biennials and peren¬ 
nials are being pricked out 6 inches apart in 
nursery beds, to get strong. The rows are 
12 inches apart, to leave room for hoeing. 
Pricked off a lot of Aralias and Grevilleas. 
These are useful in all stages of their growth, 
and a few seeds sown annually keep up the 
supply of useful-sized plants. We still grow 
a few Coleuses, and they are now in good- 
sized pots, and are useful in conservatory. 


Food for pigeons (A. F. G.).— Food in 
variety should be supplied to pigeons, and may 
consist of Peas (both grej' and white), small 
Beans, Barley, Wheat, and Hemp-seed. In 
order to keep them in health, they should lx* 
allowed free access to plenty of 4alt, gravel, 
and old lime mortar. Provide a small heap 
of rather fine gravel, upon which place a lump 
of rock salt, and you will find it will afford 
your birds a constant source of enjoyment in 
picking it over, while greatly contributing to 
keeping them in good health. 


BOOKS. 

“OUR GARDENS.”* 

This is a new edition of a deservedly popular 
book, in which no change we know of has 
been made on the older edition, except that 
it is a cheaper one. Like so many others, 
this book suffers somewhat from modern ways 
of printing the illustrations, but in all its 
other parts is an amusing and instructive 
book. 


LAW AND CUSTOM. 

Tree-roots spoiling asphalte — It lias been de¬ 
cided in the Law Courts that trees must not over¬ 
hang a neighbour's garden to the detriment of it. 
Can you tell me if the same ruling applies to roots 
of trees dumaging the property of udjoining owners? 
I have an asphalte tennis-court, which is entirely 
ruined by the roots of Klm-trees growing in the 
-piiblic highway, on the other side of my boundary 
wall. Can I compel the Corporation to compensate 
me for tile damage done? If not, can they be com¬ 
pelled to cut off the roots which have upheaved the 
court? I think in the case of boughs overhanging a 
neighbour’s garden, the owner of the trees is the 
proper person to cut them-is he not?—T ennis-court. 

[This is a matter which the Corporation 
assuredly will put right, if you approach 
them in a friendly way, because, if they do 
not, you can make yourself very unpleasant. 
The fact is that you and the Corporation, 
under these circumstances, are joint owners. 
When the roots of a tree penetrate to any 
substantial degree into the soil of any per¬ 
son other than of the planter, that other per¬ 
son becomes a joint owner, and can insist 
upon his or her rights as such. Now, if the 
Corporation will not meet you in a friendly 
way, and relay your damaged asphalte, you 
can proceed to lop off the boughs of the trees 
which overhang your land, and you may cut 
off the roots also on your own side. I think 
that, failing an amicable arrangement, an 
intimation that you will proceed to extremi¬ 
ties of that character will, probably, bring 
the Corporation to book.— Barrister.] 

Hedge eaten by horses.— I live in a self-con¬ 
tained house, adjoining a field where horses and 
cattle are grazing. A wire fence and netting, 4 feet 
high, divide my garden from the field. I have a 
hedge planted close to the fence in my garden, and 
the horses and cattle are eating it and pulling it out 
by the roots. Am I bound to put up a fence high 
enough to keep them from leaning over and eating 
my plants or can I claim damages from the owner 
of the field? The fence was erected by and belongs 
to me.—C ropton. 

[You are not obliged to fence against your 
neighbour’s horses and cattle, and if they do 
any damage to your fences or garden, or 
otherwise, you can sue their owner for com¬ 
pensation. A man who keeps horses and 
cattle must keep them on his own land by 
whatever means he chooses ; and even suppos¬ 
ing there were no fence or hedge of any sort 
between your land and his, that would not 
save him from the responsibility of paying 
for any damage they might do to your pro¬ 
perty. He must keep them at home ; if they 
leave his own land and stray elsewhere he 
must pay for the damage they do.— Bar 
rister.]’ 


The United Hortioultural Benefit and 
Provident Society. — The monthly com¬ 
mittee meeting of this society was held at the 
Royal Horticultural Hall, Vincent-square, 
Westminster, on Monday evening July 8th. 
Mr. Thomas Winter (vice-chairman) presided. 
Five new members were elected, and one 
nominated. The death certificate of Mr. Eli 
Cook, of Letton Court, Hereford, was pro¬ 
duced. The sum standing to his credit in the 
society’s books was passed for payment to his 
nominee, the amount being £36 4s. 4d. A 
lapsed member having reached sixty years of 
age, a cheque for the amount standing to his 
credit, £18 16s. 8d. was sent him. The 
amount paid for sickness during the pust six 
months has been rather heavy, compared with 
the corresponding period in 1906, as the 
following figures will show :— 


1906. 1007. 


February ~ 

£ 8. 
.. 21 7 

d. 

0 

February.. 

£ 

.. 65 

8. 

6 

d. 

0 

Marcfh 

.. 29 16 

0 

Mareh 

.. 49 

3 

i) 

April 

.. 30 4 

0 

April 

.. 43 

2 

0 

May 

29 8 

0 

Ma\ 

« 52 

0 

0 

June _ 

.. 20 10 

0 

June _ 

_ 24 

8 

0 

July 

.. 20 IS 

6 

July 

.. 17 

o 

0 

UNIVE 

£162 2 

0 


£241 

"1 

0 


• By S. Reynold 5 ! Hole. London : J. M. Dent and Co. 



GARDENING ILLVSTRATED. 


July 20, 1907 


2?4 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

Questions. —Queries and answers are inserted in 
Gakdkmno free, of charge, if corresporulents follow these 
rules: All communications should he clearly amt concisciy 
written on one side of the pajwr only, amt addressed to 
the Editor of Gakdkmno, 17, Furnival-street, Ilolburn, 
London, E.C. Letters on business should be sent to the 
Publisher. The name and address of the sender are 
required in addition to any designation he may desire to 
be used ill the paper. IF hen vuire, than one queri/ is sent, 
each should be on a separate piece of paper, awl not more 
than three queries should be. sent at a lime. Conrsjmn- 
dents should bear in mind that, as (Jardkmno has to be 
sent to press some t ime in adcance of date, queries cannot 
always be replied to in the issue immediately following 
the receipt of their communication. We do not reply to 
queries by post. 

Naming 1 fl*UIt. —Readers who desire our help in 
naming fruit should Ik'ur in miiul that sere ml specimens 
in different stages of colour and size, of the same kiiul 
greatly assist in its determination. We have receive,I from 
several cor respondents single, specimens of fruits for 
naming, these in many cases being unripe and other¬ 
wise poor. The differences between varieties of fruits are, 
in many cases so trifling that it is necessary that three 
specimens of each kind should be sent. We can umiertake 
to name only four varieties at a time, and these only when 
the above directions are observed. 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

May flowering Tulips (Z. Af.).—You certainly 
might extend the flowering Reason by lute planting, 
ami, indeed, a much later planting than November; 
but we think it right to say that very late planted 
bulbs invariably lose considerably in height. What 
is possible of accomplishment, in this direction is 
best decided by actual experiment, and early Novem¬ 
ber would not be considered late. Planted at thut 
time, however, and by giving the plants a shaded 
position, something might be done. More, perhaps, 
might be done if you obtain the latest-flowering 
varieties. We cannot advise you to try Tulips per¬ 
manently planted. 

Tea Roses for exhibition (S. E. Af.).-Twenty- 
four of the best varieties to grow for exhibition 
are: •White Main an Cocliet, *Mrs. K. Mawley, 
•Mamnn Coehet, *The Bride. •Catherine Mermet, 
“Cointea.se de Nadaillac, ’Medea, *Boadieea. Mine. 
Constant Soupert, Souvenir de S. A. Prince, ’Brides¬ 
maid, Mmc. Cusin, ’Innocente Pirole, Souvenir 
d'Elise Y'ardon, *Mmc. Jules (Jravereaux, •Souvenir 
de Pierre Netting. Mme. Hoste, Souvenir d un Ami, 
Martcliul Niel, Mme. de Watteville, Marie Van 
lloutte, Annie Ollivier, Niphetos, and Mme. Jean 
Dupuy. The twelve best of the furegoing are marked 
with an asterisk, and at. least double quantities 
should be grown of these. 

Smut on leaves (Cm mbriana ).—There is no trace 
of any fungoid disease on the Azalea leaves sent, but 
they are simply edited with a black deposit, just as 
happens to plants stood out-of-doors under the drip 
of trees within the smoke-laden area of London. 
The leaves have been attacked by tlirips, but by itself 
this is not suflleient to account for the trouble. 
From their thin texture they appear to have been 
kept closer, warmer, and moister than is necessary. 
Yours is a question that cun only lie answered ill a 
satisfactory manner by someone on the spot, hence 
it would be better to consult a local gardener, and 
hear his opinion on the matter. 

Staging Tea Roses at an exhibition 

(F. 11. S .).—Keep the best blossoms at the corners and 
the largest in the back row. Have boxes with deep 
lids, of the regulation size, which is supplied by the 
National Rose Society, and provide yourself with the 
now well-known telescopic tubes. The beauty of a 
show Tea Rose is often aided by the outer or wing 
petals. These are not tied up—only tlie centres of 
the blossoms. If one has a specially good fluwer two 
days before a show’, our advice would be to out it 
and place in a cool, airy room or cellar in a jar of 
water. Such blooms will last three or four days 
sometimes. We have known of some individual Tea 
Rose blooms that have doue duty at three and e\en 
four exhibitions. 

Pelargoniums for winter flowering (Heater). 
— For producing plants for winter blooming, the best 
way is to take stout cuttings early in the spring—say, 
March. When rooted, grow them on as hardy as 
possible, shifting into 4J-inch pots before they be¬ 
come pot-bound, keeping them close to the glass, and 
giving abundance of air. At the beginning of June 
stand them in a sheltered position in the open air on 
a bed of ashes, pinching the growths when of sufficient 
length, and assisting the roots with liquid-manure 
as soon as the li-inch pots, which will be large enough 
for the plants to flower in, are becoming pretty well 
filled with roots. A good fibrous loam and some 
coarse sand suit them well. Keep all summer trusses 
of bloom picked olf, and remove into a temperature 
of [A) degs. early in October. Their somewhat root- 
bound condition will induce flowering. During the 
winter a gentle current of air must, be given in open 
weather to prevent the plants becoming drawn. As 
to a suitable heating apparatus you should consult 
our advertisement pages. 

Perennials and biennials from seed (Peren¬ 
nial).—As you possess so little ground for making 
nursery beds, you might safely transplant the Pansies, 
Polyanthuses, Antirrhinums, Columbines, and Pcnt- 
steinons into boxes, while endeavouring to find room 
at the ends of the rows between the fruit-trees for 
the stronger-growing sorts. For example, Canterbury 
Bells, Coreopsis, Delphiniums, Sweet William, and the 
like would only be starved in boxes unless these were 
or liberal size, and pots would be out. of the question, 
unless unremitting care washes towed 
The boxes in any case sliduld oe ^jirong 
than 6 inches deep. Bo^s ihit |i e 
flail arc of little use, andTjtHAOr waip 


to the fluctuating conditions of heat and moisture. 
We strongly advise you, therefore, to transplant all 
you possibly can into the open ground. The Antir 
rliiiiuins and l’< ntstr moos may be pot-grown if you 
wish it, as these will probably have to be wintered 
under cover, unless hi your district Mich things sur¬ 
vive when hft in the open. 

Treatment of Spiraeas (Enquire r).—You say 
nothing us to the condition the Spirieas are in, hence, 
however willing we are to oblige, our answer can at 
best be but a general one. The only certainty is 
thut by this time the plants should have made the 
greater part of their growth for this season, and if 
they have been neglected up to now nothing can be 
done to lit them for flowering next spring. Spiriras 
that have been flowered under glass early in the year 
should be protected from frosts and cutting winds 
till they can be safely planted outside. For this pur¬ 
pose a fairly moist —not water-logged- spot should be 
chosen, and, as the Spineas are liberal feeders, the 
ground previous to planting must be well dug and a 
good amount of manure incorporated with it. They 
must during the summer be kept clear of weeds, ami 
take care that they at no time suffer from want of 
water, l’lants that have been forced must be allowed 
two seasons to recoup themselves before lifting again 
for potting, but those that have just flowered in the 
greenhouse at much about the normal period will, if 
planted out directly and carefully attended to, flower 
again the next season. You speak of an accumula¬ 
tion of five years, but do not state if the plants are 
still in pots, if so, the probability is that they are 
useless, and tlie only satisfactory solution of the 
matter is to throw them away. 

FRUIT. 

Aphides on Peach trees (Sandovnn I.atrn). No; 

the pest, attacking your Peach-trees is greenfly. 
Dust the shoots with Tobacco-powder or syringe the 
trees Well with IJuassiu extract, and solt soap. From 
the shoot you send, we should say that the roots are 
in .1 very bad eondition. Did you make a border for . 
the tree.'? You should have the wall thoroughly 
cleaned and, if need be, pointed afresh if a brick one. 
See art frh , “ Cleansing a Brick Wall,” in our issue of 
September ;2Gth. 1900. p. 41s, a copy of which can 
be had from the publisher, post fiec, for lid. You 
will ilml in our issue of June 2nd, 11*00, p. 182, in¬ 
structions as to making u Peach-border. 

Peach-leaves blistered (.If. .-1. E .).—Yours is a 
l>ad case of what is known.as Peach-blister—a disease 
from which in cold springs few outdoor trees escape. 
1L is the product of a fungus, though doubtless gener¬ 
ated by cold winds and frosts causing disruption of 
the cellular tissues of the then tender leaves. Peaches 
are usually grown on t-lie warmest walls in the 
garden, with the result that they early start into 
growth. Then we get from warm, sunny days changes 
to frost or cold, biting winds, which injure the 
leafage. The best remedy is found in gathering the 
affected leaves gradually, taking the worst first. 
Spraying the trees before tlie leaf-buds open with 
Bordeaux mixture or sulphate of copper solution also 
docs good. 

Overgrown Pear trees (B. IF. B.. Cork ).—When 
wall or espalier-trained Pear-trees become overgrown 
it hardly does to cut them back to their original form 
or dimensions, as the check is so very great. Gener¬ 
ally, the best, course is to treat them as free-growing 
standards, allowing them to develop heads. Whilst 
that is being done, the lower branches may be cut 
away i** they are not fruitful. The standard Pear- 
tree, which blooms so abundantly, but docs not fruit, 
would probably carry fruit were the bloom spurs 
freely thinned some time before the spring. It is a 
common occurrence over here to find sparse crops on 
Pear-trees that have been garlands of bloom earlier. 
Your Pear-trees seem so old tlint transplanting is 
likely to kill them. If you want to plant trees else¬ 
where, you had far better purchase young ones and 
plant those. Trees only a few years planted will, of 
course, move well and siuwiy if done in the autumn. 

Decaying tree-stem (Belfast ).—It is just pos¬ 
sible that your wild Cherry-tree stem may have had 
an electric current down it at some time and thus 
have caused the great rent in the bark seen on one 
side of the stem. It seems hardly probable that soil 
has caused it. Wo think the considerable decay 
seen in the stem indicates general decay of the whole 
tree. You can do no harm by scraping oft all decayed 
wood, and coating what is exposed wood with coal- 
tar once only. The result of this treatment, a year or 
two hence, it would be interesting to make known. 

VEGETABLES. 

The Carrot-maggot (B. E. ID .—Your Carrots 
have, no doubt, been attacked by the maggot which 
very often does great mischief, and, if not checked, 
will soon ruin the crop. You should pull up ami 
burn any roots that are commencing to flag, at the 
same time collecting any grubs you can find and 
putting them into boiling water. Get a, bushel of 
soot and another of lime, and put them into a tank 
or barrel containing about 100 gallons of water. Stir 
this well, and allow it. to stand for twelve hours, 
then apply the clear water to the surface of the bed, 
well moistening it. If you can, you may add a little 
horse or sheep manure to the water, as this will in¬ 
duce the plants to make good growth. 

Vegetable Marrow jam (Improver ).—In making 
this jam the syrup should be made first. To every 
pint of water add 2 lb. of preserving sugar. Let 
both remain in the proser\itig-pan until the sugar is 
dissolved, then place if on the fire and allow it to boil 
briskly for half--an-Imur. Throw hi a cup of cold 
water, and do not touch it again, but. when it conics 
to boiling-point draw it oil the fire and let it- settle, 
Skim oft all scum. Having thus made the syrup, put 
in the Marrow, which should be prepared in the fol¬ 
lowing way . Peel a not-ton-ripe Marrow, remove the 
seeds, cut it according to taste into large or small 
pu ces. It. should remain one night in salt and water. 

In the morning drain it on a sieve till the water is 



out. Put it into the boiling syrup, and let it boil till 
quite dear. When done, add the strained juice of a 
lemon. 


SHORT REPLIES. 

Boris.—' There arc many suitable planks, hut unless you 
tell us something as to the space to be covered, it is very 
difficult to advise.— C. A'.—You may be allowed to 
show the Sweet. Williams and the Antirrhinums, but not 
the Eschscholtzia, which is an annual. Some judges may 
take exception to the Sweet. Williams and Antirrhinums 
ns being only biennials—all depends on the requirements 
of the schedule. They are usually grown as biennials, but 
1 his is because that is the way to get the best results. 
You will find a long article on the growing of Malmaison 

Carnations in our issue of August 18. 1906, p. 336.- 

K. S'.—Any nurseryman ill your neighbourhood should be 
able to supply the Pelargoniums you inquire about., or at 
all events he could procure such for you. As to growing 
them, you say nothing as to what conveniences you have 
got.- John Mansfield. There is nothing better than 
bone-meal or guano. A great deal depends, however, on 

the soil with which one has to deal.- G. L. C.— The 

best time to clip Yews is towards the latter end of April. 

- Kelso. —The best way for such a long sea voyage would 

be to get them well rooted in small pots, and then pack 
in a Wardian case, so that your friend could examine 

them on the way out.- James RoJTey. —What you send 

is a fascia ted stem. This is not at all an uncommon 
occurrence, the stem simply' becoming flattened instead of 
retaining the usual cylindrical form. A good example of 

this is found in the Cockscomb.- Charlton. —1, No ; keep 

the plants indoors. Clivia-s dislike disturbance at the root, 
and in the case of large plants repotting every second 
year is quite sufficient. 2, You will find the information 

you want in “The English Flower Garden."- Bally- 

castle.— Judging from the pieces of Strawberry plants you 
send, we should at once conclude that the plants are very 
old and worn out.. Your only remedy' is to make a fresh 
plantation, getting fresh runners from a distance. Do not 
use the runners from your own plants, as they will only 
disappoint,- -G. B. CruickshanJe. —The Grapes you send 
are certainly scalded. It is a great mistake to overcrop, 
more especially young Vines. Disaster will overtake the 

Vines in time if this is persisted in.- Gerard. —The Ivy- 

leaved Pelargoniums, leaves of which you send, have evi¬ 
dently been kept, too dose, hence the trouble. Put them 
into a frame, and freely ventilate it ; in fact, leave the 

lights off. and the plants will grow out of the trouble.- 

lire. F. Freeman.- Ka*Pl>errie8 are increased from the 
suckers that you will find surrounding the old plants, and 
the Strawberries from lay ers. See leading article, " Mak¬ 
ing new Strawberry plantations," in our issue for July IS, 

p. 247.- North Kerry.— The culprits are, no doubt, 

mice. —K. if. Knox .—You give us no information what¬ 
ever to help us in any way ; but judging from the plant 
you send the failure is evidently due to some chemical. 
Have you b°en using any artificial manure? If so, too 

heavy an application might be the cause.- H. Lakin — 

Please send complete specimens, and pack them dry.- 

Red Cottage. —Evidently one of the Bush Honeysuckles, 
which, owing to the unfavourable season, has gone green. 
Kindly send us a normal flower, and we will do our best 

to name it for you.- A. II. White.— 1, You might try in 

the fountain basin Aponogeton distachyon. 2, Why not 
stand the plants in the open air for a week or so? They 
will take no harm if they are only greenhouse subjects. 
When sending queries, please read our rules as to putting 

each one on a separate piece of paper.- Mrs. G. H. 

Morrison.—I, You cannot do better than plant Royal 
Sovereign. 2, For a hedge such ns you want, nothing is 
better than the common Holly. Procure strong seedling 
plants.— Red Cottage.— See reply to *‘ Enquirer” re Straw. 

berries failing on p. 269.- An Old Reader. —The growth 

of the Rose was, no doubt, very gross and rampant, and the 
unseasonable, cold weather we have had of late has quite 
crippled it. With warmer weather the plants Bhould 
recover. Smilax .- See illustration and reply to “Holly¬ 
wood ” in our issue of June 30, 1906, p. 233, a oopy of 
which can be had from the publisher, post free, for ljd. 


NAMES OF PLANTS AND FRUITS. 

Names of plants. -G. if.— I, Phlox setaeea var.; 
2, Dianthus sp.; 3, Hieracium aurantiacuin ; 4, Genista 
sagittalis ; 6, Bed uni Ewersi ; 6, Antirrhinum Asarina ; 7, 
Saxifraga sp. ; 8, Stellaria sp. It is very unfair to send us 
such scraps, in several cases onlv a single bloom, and 
expect us to name with any certainty. We must have 
complete fepecimens in every case. Kindly see our rules 
r a to the number of plants we undertake to name weekly 

for any one reader.- W. II. Tuson .—Rose had f&lleu to 

pieces.- Gnawery, Mallmr —We cannot undertake to 

name Roses. You must send them to a specialist. Kindly 
read our rules as to naming plants. We only undertake to 
name four specimens. and you send us no lees than thir¬ 
teen.- G. /. //.—The Snake-plant (Arum Dranunculus). 

- K. I S .—A very poor starved root of Horse-radish. 

- W. J. S .— Abutilon Thompsoni, so far as we can judge 

from the poor specimens of root and leaves you send.- 

M. F. Mumford .—The American Aloe (Agave americana). 
Tliis flowers only once, and after several years’ growth. Let 

the leaves die off naturally.- A. FI. Smithers.— Iris sp. 

- J. U. The Masterwort (Astrantia major).- Weaver. 

—One of the varieties of decorative Pelargoniums. Yours 
is a good ppecimen, Beeing you have grown it in a window. 

See article on this in our issue of July 6, p. 238. - 

Gerard. —l, Solnnuni robustmn ; 2, Rosa Harrisoni, the 

semi-double form of the Austrian Brier.- T. A. Sturge. 

—one of the forms of Iris equalens.- Onyx. —Liliuiu 

pomponium .- Mrs. Rerens .—The Virginian Spiderwort 

(Tradescantia virginica).-./. M .—Carduua pratensis, 

we think, but should like to see a complete plant. 

Name of fruit.—//. S. T. —Cherry Kentish Red. 


Catalogue received.—F. \v. I,, siaden. Ripple 
Court Apiary, Dover. -i.iVf of Bees, Queen Bees, and 
Queen-rearing A pplia nies. 

Boole received. - The National Carnation and 
Pieotee Society (Southern Section).^- ” Thirtieth Annual 
Report for 1906.’’ 





GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 

No. 1,481.—Y OL. XXIX. Founded by W. Robinson, Author qf "The English Flower Garden J ULY 27, 1907. 


INDEX. 


Apile-tree leaves, fun- 


gus on .. 

280 

Apple trees unhealthy.. 

276 

A»paragus Sprengeri .. 

288 

Betf . 

287 

Books 

287 

Bramble (Rubua delici- 


opus), the Rocky 


Mountain 

288 

Broccoli, too many aorta 


of .. 

384 

Broom, increasing 

377 

Bulbs, potting, for sue- 


cession .. 

278 

Calceolaria Golden Gem 

283 

Cherries (dessert) turn- 


ing yellow 

275 

Chcrries,Morellu, failing 

276 

Chrysanthemum, ihe 


Arctic. 

282 

Chrysanthemum* 

280 

( hrysanthcinumn — sea- 


son&ble note* 

780 

Ctanatises, fettling 

283 


'Climbers, annua], in 

pots .283 

Climbing plants for 

fernery.288 

Conservatory .288 

1 Dahlias: mmmer work 282 

Death of Mr. S S Cold 

smith .287 

Figs bursting .. 276 

Figs : the m-ond crop.. 275 
Fir-trees, plants under. , 288 
Flowers, some wet 

weather.2S2 

Flowers, wild, bouquet 

of.284 

Foxgloves, white and 
spotted,alongside half 
open iiergola .. .. 281 

Fiuit .275 

Fruit garden .. ..286 

Fruit prospects in South 

Hants.276 

Fruit-trees on walls uot 
hearing.276 


Garden diary, extracts 


from a. 

286 

Garden in the house . 

286 

Garden roBis and 


friends. 

280 

Garden work 

286 

Gypsophila, sprays of, 


for winter 

284 

Heliotroites for winter- 


blooming 

278 

Hydrangea, treat inent 


of. 

278 

Hydrangeas 

282 

Indoor plants 

278 

Kohl Rabi or Turnip- 


rooted Cabbage 

788 

I>aw and custom 

787 

Lilies, Belladonna 

283 

Lilies, Bermuda, tho 


second year 

278 

Lilium eandiduni 

283 

Liliuin eandiduni failing 

280 

Liliums for Scotland .. 

7X3 

Lime, the uses of 

283 


Mushroom - beds, out¬ 
side .286 

Name wanted 280 

Narcissi, the liner .. 281 

Oleandr rs.278 

Orchard-house .. .. 286 

Outdoor garden .. .. 286 

Outdoor plants .. 281 

Pansies, Tufted, injured 280 
Peach-leaf unhealthy .. 288 
Pear-tree, injury to . . 275 
Pears cracked .. 288 

Peoa, large-podded .. 284 
Pine-trees, injured .. 280 
Pine-weevil, the.. .. 280 

Plant, a desirable hardy 
foliage (Thalielniui 
adiantifolium).. ., 2*4 

Plant for pond .. .. 283 

Plants and tiowere .. 27S 
Plants failing .. 182 

Plants, grubs dest roying 280 
Plum and Apple-leaves 
unhealthy .. 27(J 


Pond, puddling a .. 288 
Pot-pourri, making .. 2S8 
Raspberries in poor con¬ 
dition .276 

Rhubarb from seed 285 
Room and window .. 281 
Rosa tunica Anemone 
on a wall .. .. 288 

Rose-chafer, the.. .. 280 

Rose, Christmas, in 

July .283 

Rose Francois Crouaso 271* 
Rose leaves unhealthy.. 288 
Roses .. .. 278 

Roses for Scotch gar¬ 
den .270 

Roses, Hybrid Tea* 

scented.278 

Rose, mildew on.. .. 270 

Roses, shading exhibi¬ 
tion .2>‘X 

•SalpigloRBis, the .. .. 283 

Saxifrage cotyledon .. 278 
Slugs, destroying .. 280 


Solution, using caustic 
alkali .. . .. 276 

Soot, value of .. .. 278 

Stove .288 

Strawberry trial at Wia- 
lcy .. ..275 

Strawberries, millipedes 
eating .. .. 260 

Sweet Williams .. .. 283 

Tomato - leaves, black 

spots on.285 

Tomatoes failing .. 2K5 

Tomatoes under glass.. 286 

Trees and shrubs . 277 

Tulip-tree from seed, 
raising the .. .. 288 

Vegetable garden .. 2S6 

Vinery,late .. .. 286 

Weeks work, the 

coming.28 i 

Wcigelas or Bush 
Honeysuckles.. .. 277 
Window-boxes in au¬ 
tumn .281 


FRUIT. 

FIGS : THE SECOND CROP. 

In most gardens it is customary to take a 
second crop of fruit from tho early forced 
trees, an ordeal they? are quite capable of 
undergoing without harm accruing, as the 
Fig, under good management, will bring a 
great quantity of fruit to perfection. Many 
fall into the error of allowing their trees to 
bear a third crop, but this is to be depre¬ 
cated, it is so liable to overtax the ener 
gies of the trees. Trees which are sub¬ 
jected to early forcing annually should never 
be allowed to carry more than two crops in 
one season, and. if a third is taken, the 
penalty invariably has to be paid the follow 
ing year, either by the trees casting a large 
percentage of their first crop fruits or by their 
showing fruit but sparsely when started into 
growth. Either result causes much annoy¬ 
ance when ripe Figs are required early in the 
year, and there is then no help for it hut to 
wait until the trees have made from 6 inches 
to 9 inches of new growth, when, as a result 
of pinching out the points of the shoots, 
fruits will, in due course, appear at the 
axil of every leaf. This delay can be averted 
if the resolution is formed, and adhered to, 
to take but two crops only, and, provided 
the root system is under full control, as it 
should be, trees 60 treated will continue year 
after year to yield most satisfactory results. 
In many instances the second crop of fruit 
will be in that condition, when, having 
flowered and set, they will be entering upon 
what is gerierally designated the final swell¬ 
ing stage. Now, if the fruits are wanted to 
swell quickly to maturity, they will respond 
and increase in size rapidly, if plenty of neat, 
artificial or solar, is employed, and the atmos¬ 
phere kept well charged with moisture also. 
Of course, when the fruits begin to exhibit 
signs of approaching ripeness, a drier and 
more buoyant atmosphere becomes requisite, 
hut until then hard forcing may lie resorted 
to, if desired. Another matter demanding 
frequent attention is the requirements of the 
roots in the way of moisture, because, no 
matter whether forcing or not is being 
carried on, they must have ample supplies of 
water. This may be afforded in the shape 
of diluted liquid-manure and guano water 
alternately, and in a tepid condition, suf¬ 
ficient l>eing given on each occasion to tho¬ 
roughly moisten the border to the drainage. 
If the roots are restricted to a prescribed 
area, a good mulch of horse droppings and 
cow-manure will encourage myriads of roots 
to the surface, which prove of the utmost ser¬ 
vice by aiding the trees to perfect their crops 
the more quickly and effectually. All signs 
of a third crop should be suppressed by rub¬ 
bing out the young fruits as fast as they ap¬ 
pear, as others will be formed in their proper 
season to form next year's crop. To ensure 
the wood becoming properly ripened, crowd 
on all the air it is possible to afford by open¬ 
ing ventilators and doors to their widest ex¬ 
tent as soon as the cromli|wi been ejeared. 

Digitized by CjOOgle 


The foliage, too, should be frequently 
syringed, us it is important to maintain the 
leaves in a healthy, elcan condition until 
they have performed their proper functions, 
and if red spider is present—which is more 
likely to be the case than not —syringe them 
with soft-soapy water, with a handful of 
flowers of sulphur added to every four gal¬ 
lons,‘or with some approved insecticide. 

A. W. 


STRAWBERRY TRIAL AT WISLEY. 
The trial- of Strawberries recently seen at 
Wisley gardens by the fruit committee of the 
Royal Horticultural Society no doubt owed 
some of the successful growth and cropping 
to the abundant rains of the season. The 
soil is simply a solid body of sand, and has in 
it, apparently, not a particle of clay, hence 
it has no adhesiveness. It is generally on 
stiff, retentive soiLs that Strawberries do 
best, as we have, in years past, had ample 
evidence of. But here is evidence that, with 
sand deeply worked, and well manured, then, 
after being planted, trodden firm, and the 
plants in the spring well mulched, to enable 
moisture to be retained, Strawberries will do 
well—at least, for two years. Whether it is 
wise to allow them to remain a third year 
has to be proved. But, all the same, certain 
varieties do there better than others, and a 
specially good selection, judging by the growth 
and cropping seen, are Royal Sovereign, 
robust, and carrying a heavy crop ; Leader, 
a great crop, but having less robust leafage ; 
President, very fine; Monarch, also good; 
Le Gros Sucree, here the very earliest ; and 
Fillbasket, a huge cropper, and Latest of All, 
also good. Givon's Late Prolific, generally 
so good, was here a failure. British Queen 
and Dr. Hogg were poor also, as these, as do 
Guntou Park and Lord Suffield. all need 
strong, retentive soil. The Bedford and Bed¬ 
ford Champion, varieties having names easily 
confused, both robust, had not heavy crops. 
Mentmore had a good crop of fruit, but was 
very acid. Both St. Antoine do Padoue and 
St. Joseph, the popular autumn fruiters, were 
also doing well, but the former gave the 
better crop, the fruits being of good size and 
of excellent quality. Several other varieties 
were seen, hut the beet have been mentioned. 

It is again very interesting to note how few 
really high-class novelties in Strawberries 
come into commerce. Still, it will l>c difli 
cult to find better from any source than are 
the best ones of to-day. Very recently a 
Strawberry was put into commerce under the 
name of Kentish Favourite. It was exhibited 
at the Temple Flower Show as quite new, 
and at a recent meeting of the fruit commit¬ 
tee! was again sli.own, and by a small vote ob¬ 
tained an award of merit. When fruit and 
plants of it were exhibited at. the Temple 
show, Mr. Laxton declared it to be Leader. 
When the fruit committee went to Wisley on 
the 5th inst., not a member knew that the 
variety so named was growing there. Leader 
was first seen, as it came soonest in the rows. 
The other was seep afterwards, and then 


every member came at once to the conclu¬ 
sion (hat the two were identical. Leader 
had previously obtained an award of merit. 
The later award, under the name of Kentish 
Favourite, will, of course, have to he can¬ 
celled. Necessarily the committee will have 
to inquire how the variety came into com 
merce under the later appellation. No doubt 
all who have purchased plants have done m» 
in the belief that they were of a new and 
distinct variety. A. D. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Injury to Pear tree .-Could you kindly let mo 
know what has affected my Marie Louise Pear-tree? 
It is a young, healthy three-year-old tree on a south 
wall, and has made good growth this season, but the 
fruit has not set, and suddenly one day, about a, 
month ago, seemed struck all on one side, as you 
will see by enclosed pieces. The main stem is unin¬ 
jured, but several points on both sides seem to bo 
dying off. Is it an insect at work, or has it been 
struck by lightning? Is it likely to recover, or had 
I better burn it?—T. Titk. 

[The piece* of Pear wood you send are *<> 
dried up and shrivelled as to render it im- 
i possible to state definitely the cause of their 
dying. We can find no trace of the larva of 
the pith-moth, neither is there any sign of 
the brown rot—i.e., so far as we can judge 
from the dried 6tate of the leave* and wood. 
We should hardly thiuk the injury was 
caused by lightning, us in this case the whole 
of the tree would, no doubt, have suffered 
more or less. W T ere it not for the fact that the 
! wood began suddenly to die we should be in¬ 
clined to think the roots had got into some¬ 
thing of an injurious nature, but, under the 
circumstances, we are somewhat perplexed. 
In any case, we advise the lifting of the tree 
in the autumn, and if the root system is found 
in a healthy condition replant it ; but if not 
burn it. In the meantime, cut off all dead 
and dying pieces of wood and burn them, 
cutting back in all cases to living and healthy 
wood.] 

Cherries (dessert* turning yellow, -l’lcase 1< II 
me the reason for these Cherries falling? There was 
n fine crop on the tree, and suddenly many of them 
have turned white and fallen off. Could it have been 
caused by frost or blight? It is a White Heart 
Cherry, and on a wall facing west. The foliage is 
very healthy.—E. P. G. 

[Your Cherries are falling as a result of the 
kernels, or germs, in the stones or seed vessels 
being imperfectly formed. Cherries usually 
cast a certain percentage of their fruits at 
what is termed the stoning period, when all 
that were injured by frost or cold winds at 
the blossoming period fail to stone properly, 
and ultimately fall. Cherry-trees will also 
sometimes relieve themselves in this way 
when an unusually heavy erop of fruit has 
set. When the casting of fruit is persistent 
| year after year then the cause may sJnfely ho 
* attributed to want of lime in the soil* All 
fruits which have their seeds enclosed in n. 
hard shell, usually designated the stone, re¬ 
quire lime in 6ome form or other to enable 
them to perfect the same, and when this is 
not. present naturally, it is usual to afford it 
in the. shape of old lime rubble, bones, bone- 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 





























276 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


July 27, 1907 


meal, or a combination of bone-meal, super¬ 
phosphate of lime, and muriate of potash, 
mixed in the proportion of l.J parts each of 
the two first named to 2 parts of the last. As 
your tree is in a healthy condition we should 
be inclined to think that the embryos were 
injured by frost, unless you have had 
previous trouble with the tree, when the de¬ 
ficiency of lime theory would apply, and the 
suggested treatment be adopted.] 

Apple-trees unhealthy I enclose a few leuves 
off an espalier Apple-tree, which show a whiter sub¬ 
stance and are shrivelling. Do you think it is due to 
the wet, ccId season, and what can I do to improve 
its health/ There have been slight traces of woolly 
i’j 1 have cleared off here and there, 

would lime dug in around the roots do good, or do 
you think it has been over-manured? I want to get 
it right for next season. For my other Apples, some 
nearing aiiu aoniG not, would you recommend lime to 
eweeten the soil, after this rain so continuous? ] 
propose at the beginning of winter to give a good 
top-dressing of manrr, lime, and soot mixed, lo en¬ 
courage fibrous growth. Am I right?—W m. H. Lewis. 

[The leaves of your Apple-free are affected 


iviih the fungoid diepaee known ns the Apple 
or powdery mildew. Hxtremes of tern 
perutnro are generally responsible for its 
appearance, und the cold, ungeuial weather 
of the past three months has, no doubt, 
caused un outbreak in many other localities' 
The best remedy in sulphur in some form or 
other, and as you have but one tree affected 
brat dissolve 4 oz. of soft soap in hot water’ 
then add a good double handful of flowers 
of sulphur and thoroughly mix all together. 
Tills clone, add enough soft water to make 
three gallons, mid syringe both the upper and 
under surface of the leaves of the tree with 
it. Wash with clean water in the course of 
a day or so, and if the fungus is not dead re¬ 
peat the application. Lime would certainly 
help to sweeten the soil if it is in a sour 
stale, hut the above is no doubt the true 
cause of attack. We, therefore, advise you 
to do no more than is suggested until the 
autumn arrives, when you may apply the top 
dressing you mention. As a further precau¬ 
tion you should also spray the trees on the 
conclusion of pruning with caustic alkali solu 
tion, and again just before the trees show 
Signs of growth. Regarding (lie woolly aphis, 
or American blight, dress all parts of ’the tree 
affected with it during the winter months, 
either with paraffin emulsion or the before- 
mentioned caustic wash, applying and well 
working it into the rough portions of wood 
and bark, or wherever the insects are lurk¬ 
ing, with a half worn-out paint brush. In the 
summer mouths stray patches of the insects 
may be destroyed by just brushing them with 
a, little petroleum, being careful to use no 
more of the oil than is necessary to despatch 
them in ease injury to the tree may result, 
l'or the American blight, dressing the trees 
with neats foot oil has been fouud a sure 
remedy.] 

Raspberries in poor condition.— Can you tcli 
me what is wrong witli these Raspberries (Superla¬ 
tive)? They grow strong and well, but a sort of 
mildew or fungus comes on the leaves, as enclosed, 
and the fruit does not fill. Then the new canes, as I 
write (early in July), grow so strong they nearly top 
the old ones, and those new caups often blossom, and 
give fine fruit late in autumn; but. on the whole, the 
crop is poor and nothing like what it should be 1 
have mulched them well, and they look the picture 
!!‘.“ ea 1th, except for those that are crumpled up a 
i’ ,, Plea6e if there is any remedy or if vou 
think they are overfed? These last two seasons'ue 
have had a bitter wind in June, which may have 
blighted the blossoms. Should I spray early in the 
season to check this blight?— Kerry. 

[We can find no sign of mildew on tbe 
leaves sent, but they have the appearance of 
having been buffeted about considerably by 
the cold, rough winds which have been so 
prevalent of late. The reiuson why the fruits 
have set so imperfectly is, we thiuk, also due 
to adverse weather effects, and not in anv 
way to a peculiarity of the variety. It 
is rather unusual for the young canes to fruit 
the same season, but we have witnessed such 
a thing before now. Of course, when the 
canes made during the previous season are 
cut down, say in February, the young canes 
made then always fruit in autumn ; but this 
is. of course, done purposely, and with the 
view of obtaining a late crop. If your canes 
would only set and carry a full crop at the 
proper period you would not be further 
troubled in this way. As regards the 
growth of the young canes being equal to that 


of the old ones, this is no more than it should 
be. As a rule, most people complain that 
their Raspberry canes are lacking in vigour, 
aird not the reverse; still, if you consider 
you have over-fed them, omit mulching next 
winter, and note the result. As the canes 
are so vigorous they will require to be well 
thinned at pruning time, in February next, 
allowing not more than five to a stool *if they 
are to be tied to stakes, or so that they will 
be 9 in. apart if tied to a trellis, and leave 
them 5 ft. to 5 ft. 6 in. in height. If favoured 
with more propitious weather conditions 
another season they will, no doubt , flower and 
set fruit in a satisfactory manner.] 

Fruit trees on walls not bearing I have a 
large, walled garden, with fruit-trees, mostly Plums, 
Cherries, and Pears, against the walls. A narrow 
border at. foot of wall has been planted with Violets 
, for several years close up to stems of trees, and, 

| from fear of injuring roots of trees, this border has 
not been remade since planted. Latterly the trees 
have not borne well. Would it not be better to take 
away Violets and dress ground round trees?- 
SKISDON. 

[Remove the Violets, by all menus, ns poon 
as you can, as nothing is more prejudicial to 
the welfare of wall fruit-trees than to crop 
the border close up to the wall. It would be 
all the better if fruit trees could have the 
entire border to tluynselves, but this is pos¬ 
sible under exceptional circumstances only. 
All the same, a space of 3 feet in width 
should be left quite clear under fruit walls 
for the purpose of affording mulchings, water, 
and in attending to the trees generally, and, 
under good cultivation, this portion of the 
border soon becomes filled with roots. No 
doubt when you lift the Violets you will find 
the soil both dry and in an exhausted condi- 
tion. A good soaking of water will remedy 
matters, and if a mulch of strawy Jitter is 
placed on the surface afterwards the soil 
will not dry out so quickly again. Regarding 
the matter of exhausted soil, nothing can be 
done until the autumn, when you should re 
move as much of it as you can, beginning at 
the surface and working down until you find 
plenty of roots, and replace it with fresh com¬ 
post. Between now and then prepare as much 
of the new soil as you thiuk you will require, 
and let it consist or one half turfy loam, with 
enough charred refuse, turf parings from 
walks and drives, sweepings from the same 
which have been lying by for some time, added 
to form the remaining* half. To each cart¬ 
load of this add a barrow -loacl of lime rubble, 
a cwfc. J-inch bones, and £ cvvt. bone-meal. 
Mix all thoroughly, and protect from rain 
until required for use. Make the new’ com¬ 
post quite firm when placing it about the 
roots, and, when finished, mulch the surface, 
giving a good watering previously, should the 
compost be dry. This mode of treatment 
should restore your trees to health again, and 
induce a fruitful condition.] 

MoreHo Cherries failing.— For several years 
my Morel lo Cherries have turned yellow and dropped 
off when abjut half developed. I was advised not to 
prune them, which directions I followed, and had a 
large crop this year. About ten days ago they 
turned yellow, and about 75 per cent.* have fallen 
off. Can you tell me the cause? I have dressed 
them well with stable-manure and with bricklayers’ 
rubble.-II. C. 


Pigs bursting — I have two Fig trecs-one in a 
border under glass and tbe other also under glass in 
a tub. The former (Violette Be|>or) has some fine 
fruits, but these burst at the base before they are 
perfectly ripe. Drown Turkey, in the tub, fruits well 
but the fruits have a tendency to become mildewed 
when they attain a good size and before they are 
ripe, and many of the fruits are quite brown with a 
rust. They never take on the bloom that is seen on 
Figs. Will you kindly tell me the cause of these 
defects, and the remedy for the same?—ViTi9. 

[The bursting, or what we suspect is the 
splitting of the skins of your Violette Sepor 
Fig is, no doubt, due to the presence of too 
much moisture in the border, and the same 
in the atmosphere of the house, as is evi 
denced by the mildewing or decay in the 
fruits of Brown Turkey. In future* give no 
more water to the roots of the Violette Kepnr 
when the fruits are approaching maturity 
Ilian will keep the leaves from flagging, and 
maintain a dry, warm atmosphere in the 
house, accompanied with ample ventilation. 
Yon should then have no further trouble in 
this direction, and the fruits w ill also assume 
the purplish bloom you desire. With regard 
to Brown Turkey, the fruits of this variety 
do not take on any bloom. When allowed to 
remain on the tree until fully ri|>eiied, the 
ukins crack in all directions, and the fruits 
become veritable balls, so to s|>eak. of 
Iusciousness, requiring most careful handling 
when gathering, otherwise the skins will 
leave the flesh. If wanted to travel, they must 
be gathered before they reach this stage, but. 
if grown for home consumption only, allow 
them to hang as long os possible, and sever 
the stalks with a pair of Grape scissors when 
gathering them. In this ca-se, too. water 
with care at. the finishing stage, and cease 
giving stimulants • once the fruits exhibit 
signs of approaching ripeness.] 

Plum and Apple-leaves un healthy. -Cun vou 
tell me what is wrong with the piece of Plum-tree en¬ 
closed? It was put in last autumn. How should it k> 
treated? Also the Apple? The ground was new to 
cultivation, and is on sand.-M rs. Ham. 


Dici 


ng canes oeing equal t( 

Google 


[As your Cherries have behaved in the 
manner indicated for several years past, it 
seems that the trouble must lie at the roots, 
and, in all probability, as a result of the 
soil they are planted in being deficient of 
lime. The latter is most essential for all 
kinds of fruits whose seeds are enclosed in 
hard shells, and, without it, they are unable 
to perfect them properly. Some of the fruits 
may have dropped as a result of the flowers 
being injured by the inclement weather at the 
blooming period, but the above is, no doubt, 
the true cause*. The remedy is to lift the 

roots in the autumn—6ay, eiid of October_ 

and either replace the excavated soil with a 
more suitable compost or mix a fair pro¬ 
portion of lime rubble in a fairly fine state, 
and some bone meal with it, and a few bar¬ 
row-loafs of turfy loam also, if you can spare 
it. Sometimes the evil can be cured by dress¬ 
ing the surface of the ground to as far as the 
mots extend with freshly-slaked lime in the 
winter months, applying sufficient to well 
whiten the soil and lightly forking it in. Two 
ounces of superphosphate of lime per square 
yard, applied in the spring, are also bene¬ 
ficial. 


[The shoots of both Plum and Apple-trees 
are infested with cRlerpillars and aphides. 
The insects having disappeared, the trees are 
endeavouring to recover themselves from the 
check, as is evidenced by the young growth 
made at the tips of the shoots, and they will, 
no doubt, now remain free from further 
attack. However, to make certain of this, 
you bad better syringe the trees at once with 
Quassia extract, or any kind of insecticide 
you may have by you. and see that both the 
under and upper surfaces of the leaves are 
thoroughly wetted. Next winter spray the 
trees with caustic alkali solution. As the 
ground the trees are planted in has been 
broken up recently, an occasional root-water- 
ing will be beneficial, particularly during hot, 
dry weather. If not already done, place a 
mulch of littery manure an inch or so in 
thickness over the roots of the trees, which 
will conserve moisture, keep the roots cool, 
and favour the more rapid production of new 
rootlets.] 

Fruit prospects in South Hants. In spile 
of one of the most unseasonable springs and 
early summer months. I have one of the best 
crops of fruit, especially stone fruits, that 
l have had for a good many years. It is 
nothing new to get good crops of Apples and 
Pears, but it is quite a new thing to see the 
Plum-trees, Peaches, Apricots, etc., loaded 
with fruit. Last winter I grubbed up a great 
many Plums, Damsons, etc., that had not 
borne linlf a-dozen fruits in as many years, 
and now 1 have a good many needing support 
to the branches. During the time the Apri 
cots and Peaches were in bloom, there was 
scarcely a night without frost, and the days 
continuously cold, yet the set of fruit is even 
better on the oj>en-air, fully exposed trees 
than it is on trees on sheltered walls. An 
Apricot-tree that was put out for experiment 
as an open-air standard has a nice lot of fruit 
on it, although at the time it was in bloom 
I did not think that one could have escaped. 
—James Groom, Gosport. 

Using caustic alkali solution.—You would 

confer a great benefit, upon gardeners generally if 
you could publish the means of using caustic alkali 
solution for fruit-trees without danger to person or 
clothes, for I find that gardeners are eo impressed by 
the warnings which are given against allowing the 
solution to touch hands or clothes that they refuse to 
use it on the ground of the danger to one or other 
"I- both?—R ed House. 


:ha 


N 



July 27, 1907 


277 


GARDENING ILL VST RATED. 



gated leaved form herewith shown has flowers 
nearly white. Of pink or rose-coloured 
flowers the best, at least, of the common 
kinds, is Abel Carriere, one of the many 
good things that we owe to M. Lemoine, of 
Nancy, and which may be regarded as a 
much-improved form of W. rosea. Beside 
these there is an early-flowered variety (by 
some regarded as a species) bearing the name 
of praecox, whose blossoms are also of a 
rosy line. There are, besides this, newer 
forms of this section, but. at. present not 
widely distributed. Of deep-coloured blos¬ 
soms the variety Eva Rat like stands out. from 
all the rest. The flowers, of a bright, claret- 
crimson colour, are borne more or less from 
spring till autumn. A group of it at Kew 
was. on midsummer-day, laden with blos¬ 
soms, while when a first class certificate was 
given it by the Royal Horticultural Society, 
now fourteen years ngo, the specimens to 
which the award was made were shown as 
late as the end of August. Another good 
deep-coloured variety, hut, to my mind, not 
nearly the equal of Eva Rathke. is Lavallei. 

Weigelas are very frequently to lie met with 
in the choked lip shrubbery, where, it must 
be confessed, they hold their own pretty well, 
often at the expense of less vigorous neigh¬ 
bours. Under such conditions they are. 
however, by no means seen at their best, ami 
a much better effect is produced when they 
are grouped on the Grass, as the lowermost 
branches will then dispose themselves in a 
pleasing and informal manner on the turf. 
Where space is more limited, an isolated 
specimen on the lawn is very beautiful. For 
a selection of three 1 should name Candida, 
white ; Al»cl Carriere, rose ; and Eva Rathke, 
claret-crimson. If planted as a border or 
screen plant, the somewhat, spreading habit 
of the Weigela should lie borne in mind, and 
ample space allowed it. Weigelas may also 
with advantage be employed for clothing a 
wall or fence, if the main branches are 
secured thereto, and the others allowed to 
dispose themselves at will. The variety Abel 
Carriere used to screen a long wooden fence 
in the Ashburnham Park nursery of Mr. 
William Bull, at Chelsea, now completely 
built over. Weigelas have of late years l>e- 
come very popular for flowering under glass, 
and nt mast, of the spring meetings of tin* 
Royal Horticultural Society they are repre¬ 
sented. The one most generally grown for 
this purpose is Eva Rathke. sometimes as 
standards and at. others in bush form. 

Weigelas are not at all particular ns to 
soil or situation, hut, still, the most favour¬ 
able conditions for them are a good, fairly 
moist, yet effectually drained, loam, and a 
sunny spot. Propagation may be effected by 
layers, while cuttings are not at all difficult 
to strike. Two different kinds of cuttings 
may be employed; the growing shoots can, 
about midsummer, or soon after, when they 
have lost their succulent character, and be¬ 
come slightly woody, l>e taken off at a length 
of 4 inches to 6 inches, and inserted into 
well-drained pots of sandy soil. Placed in a 
frame, kept close, and shaded from the sun, 
they will root in about six weeks. Another 
method is to take the cuttings towards the 
end of September or in October, and put 
them into a border in the open ground. For 
this purpose the cuttings should be about a 
foot long, two-thirds of the entire length 
being buried in the soil. Seeds, too, are 
often ripened, and germinate readily if sown 
in pans or boxes and placed in a cold-frame, 
or even sown in a lied outside. This method 
cannot, be relied upon for the increase of any 
particular variety, hut still many pretty 
forms are sure to crop up. X. 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 


WEIGELAS OR BUSH HONEY¬ 
SUCKLES. 

These are now, by botanists, referred to the 
genus Diervilla, but the name of Weigela is 
too firmly fixed to be done away with. The 
Weigelas are natives of China and Japan, 
au«l, from some three or four species, has 
upriiug the great number of garden varieties, 


low-like leaves of the white flowered variety, 
Candida, and the large, roundish leaves, 
whitish on the undersides, of W. hortensis 
nivea. To the late Robert Fortune we are 
indebted for the introduction of W. rosea, 
now, however, known by the specific name of 
florida; and the more vigorous growing W. 
amabilis, also changed to W. grandiflora. 
From these and W. japonica have sprung all 
those varieties with white or rose-coloured 
blossoms, while those of a deeper colour, 
such as the red and claret-crimson kinds, 


Weigela variegatA. From a photograph in Mr. Chambers' garden at Haslemere. 


some of which are among the most beautiful 
our flowering shrubs. Weigelas are per- 
feetly hardy, not at all particular as to soil 
nr situation, provide a wide range of colour 
ju the blossoms, and, in some varieties, at 
keep up a display of bloom for a much 
longer period than most of our spring flower- 
ln g shrubs. Foliage distinctions, too, claim 
cognition for there aw two or three varie- 
gated varieties, one of which is herewith 
illustrated; another, Looymnnsi aurea, 

whose leaves are of an enty 
*hile there is a will** range 


ntyTe^golden hue J V 


owe this distinguishing feature to the influ¬ 
ence of W. florihunda. 

The original species are now difficult to 
obtain, hut not so the garden varieties, the 
principal trouble being among the numer¬ 
ous forms to select snv, a half-dozen—that 
can be obtained from almost any nursery 
where flowering shrubs are grown. Of white- 
flowered varieties may he mentioned the 
rather upright growing W. Candida, with un¬ 
usually long and somewhat, narrow leaves; 
W. hortensis nivea, a spreading shrub with 
^ery handsome blossoms; while the varie 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Broom, increasing.—Can I grow the common 
yellow iiroom from catlings? If so, when Is the best 
lime for making them?—0. M. Conybeare. 

[Common Broom being somew hat difficult to 
transplant, it is far better to raise from seed, 
which may be sown during the spring months. 
Broom grows very quickly, if you see to it 
that it is protected from rabbits.] 


Index to Volume XXVIII. -The binding covers 
(price is. »;d. each, post free, is. Odd and Index (ttd, 
post free, :td.) for Volume XXVIII. are now ready, 
and may hr \ of all newsagents, or ol the Pub¬ 
lisher, post free,' ‘ir. for the two. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 







278 


gardening illustrated. 


July 27, 1907 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 


INDOOR PLANTS. 

SAXIFRAGA COTYLEDON. 

Under thin head are to be found some of 
the moat beautiful and showy of the early 
summer-flowering Saxifrages, plants of the 
easiest possible cultivation, and producing 
in due time their fine panicles of snowy blos¬ 
soms of about 18 inches high, the individual 
flowers of which are more or less freely 
spotted with crimson or some colour akin. 
The two forms most, frequently seen in culti¬ 
vation are known as S. o. pyramidalis ami 
S. e. nepalensis, the latter name quite a mis 
nomer, i believe. The plant grown, and for 
years sold under this name, was made quite 
a feature as a market pot-plant some thirty 
or more years ago. Thus grown and 
specialised, it was particularly pleasing. As 
flowering plants for the rock garden in May 
and June, or ns pot plants for the cold-house, 
this Saxifrage produces an effect by no means 
common among alpine plants. The members 
of this set, in common with not a few other 
species of tho genus, first make rosettes of 
flowering size, and, having flowered, perish, 
producing offsets at the base to perpetuate 
their kind. The length of time required to 
build up a flowering rosette depends upon 
the size of the offset and the method of grow¬ 
ing it on. Any attempt at starving the 
plants in the early stages only leads to a 
smaller pyramid of flowers in the end, and a 
more liberal treatment not only provides a 
much more handsome spike of flowers, but. 
what is equally important, a batch of off 
seIs of large size and greater vigour that 
liiav be more quickly flowered in their turn. 

The system of growing the plants in pots 
throughout is by no means the best pos¬ 
sible, for unless the young plants receive good 
treatment, they not infrequently get into a 
stunted condition, when their progress is very 
slow. The following method I have found 
much the best for " building up the finest 
rosettes in the shortest time : Arrange a 
small bed or frame by placing ordinary 6 inch 
wide floorboards on edge, and, having filled the 
bed to 4 inches deep with ordinary builders’ 
sand, made rather firm and moist, prick out 
the offsets in one, two, or more sizes, accord¬ 
ing to quantity, the largest being arranged 
not nearer than 8 inches apart. The young 
plants take it* their quarters very quickly, 
and, if kept well watered, rosettes of large 
size will result in one season. 1 have grown 
rosettes nearly as large as an ordinary dinner 
plate hv these simple nutans, and such pro¬ 
duce offsets of good size also. In early 
autumn the strongest rosettes should be 
potted in loam, sand, and old mortar; or, 
failing this, very gritty material, into which 
broken brick has entered largely. 

At the present time the plants that have 
flowered this spring are producing their 
young rosettes, and those inquiring the lvest 
results with tin* least trouble, should adopt 
the simple method of increase referred to 
above. It, is not generally recognised that 
many of these Saxifragas delight in free sup 
plies of moisture during the grow ing season, 
and. with good drainage, such supplies may 
l>e given with advantage. Where it is de¬ 
sired to give tlie plants their permanent posi¬ 
tions in the rock garden, care should be 
taken that, ample moisture is provided for 
during their season of growth. Thus freely 
grown, a much larger display of the snowy 
plumes this plant provides is made possible, 
and the plant is certainly worthy of the 
attention. E. JENKINS. 

Heliotropes for winter blooming. Helio¬ 
tropes are not frequently regarded in the 
light of winter flowering subjects. We think 
of their sweetness and beauty in the green¬ 
house or garden in July, and forget that if 
only we care to go to the trouble and 
specialise them they may be had in bloom 
in October, and will, in a warm house, flower 
more or less the winter through. Just as we 
prepare for winter blooming other things, 
like Pelargoniums for instance, by potting 
Jbein on in gi/nMna^iial £^i|j>q£od loam 
and leaf inouL pilV baW-l^ed manure, 


pinching the flower-buds off os they appear 
before September, and giving the plants the 
benefit of a frame wherein they may ripen 
their wood, so we may have the same results 
with the fragrant Heliotrope. I have found 
that for most purposes 5-inch pots are large 
enough, and into these young plants which 
were struck this spring may be put at once. 
Old plants, denuded of their buds, and en¬ 
couraged during the next few months with 
liquid-manure, will often bloom very well in 
winter, but it is to young plants that we 
must look for the best blossoms.—L eahitrst. 


VALUE OF SOOT. 

As a stimulant for Chrysanthemums, Pelar¬ 
goniums, Cinerarias. Primulas, Begonias, 
Melons, and Cucumbers, eoofc imparts a 
glossy dark-green foliage and healthy vigour 
to the plants. This in itself in some measure 
is a preventive of pests and disease, which 
are often the result of a weakened constitu¬ 
tion. Onions braird more quickly and with 
greater vigour if soot is sown in the drills ; 
if it is scattered broadcast on the foliage, 
afterwards at intervals, when washed off by 
rains, it keeps ‘‘the fly” away, consequently 
there is no maggot. This applies also to the 
Carrot fly. Celery fly, Turnip-fly. etc., as 
well a«' tin? leaf-miner, so prevalent on 
Chrysanthemums, Marguerites, Cinerarias, 
etc. All the Brassica family receive protec¬ 
tion and stimulating benefit from a liberal 
applicat ion of soot . As a prevention or eradi- 
cator of caterpillar it is unsurpassed. As a 
daily requirement its usefulness should not 
he abused by too liberal applications. For 
growing crops in the kitchen garden frequent 
applications lightly given have more effect 
with ft good dressing l»efore planting. For 
the Carrot and other flies frequent light dust¬ 
ings, especially immediately after rain, are 
given. For a stimulant for pot-plants 
half a hag of soot in a paraffin cask of water 
makes a good decoction, using it at the rate 
of one gallon to four of clean water three or 
four times a week, according to the require¬ 
ments of the plant. I.liave, however, prac¬ 
tised another method of using it, with excel¬ 
lent results to pot plants—Tomatoes, Cucum¬ 
bers, and Pelargoniums in particular. My 
plan was to boil for half an hour a G-inch 
potfnl of soot in four gallons of water, using 
the liquid when watering at the rate of half a- 
pint to the gallon of water. I was led to 
adopt this practice to prevent the sediment 
clogging up the pores of the soil, which was of 
a heavy nature, the tops of the pots being 
usually quite black, with a slimy appearance 
when wet. My plan was not only successful 
in preventing this, but the plants grew so 
well that. I practised the method in lighter 
soils, and with such good success that. I 
learned to believe there is more in the tea 
and less in the soot when applied thus. 
Jar. Bethel, in The Scottish danlnur. 


by a little leaf-mould, dried row-manure, and 
sand, will suit, it perfectly. When potted you 
may keep it in the greenhouse for ten days or 
a fortnight, after w r hich time it will be better 
out-of-doors till the autumnal frosts make 
their appearance.] 

Oleanders.— “ We hear little and see less of 
Oleanders nowadays. Why?" someone asked me the 
other day. 1 was bound to admit the truthfulness 
of this statement, and suggested that it might be 
owing to the poisonous nature of both flowers and 
foliage. Be the reason what it-may, when grown in 
a greenhouse with other plants, or in a conservatory, 
where they can be given more room, they yield many 
beautiful blossoms. Two things they object to, and 
these are: Dryness at the roots and cold draughts.— 
WOODBASTWirk. 

Potting bulbs for succession In potting 
bulbs for early flowerinir we are apt to overlook that 
it is desirable to prolong the display as much as 
possible, and not have a burst of bloom in the house 
and then a dearth of flowers for succeeding weeks. 
Bloom for succession should be aimed at, and this 
can be assured if potting is done at certain intervals. 
The earliest bulbs ought to be secured in August, 
as it is then the first consignments of the Roman 
Hyacinths begin to arrive, and Tulips and Narcissi 
should follow on. Then there are the Chiouodoxas 
and the Siberian Squills.- Leahukst. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Bermuda Lilies the second year.-l have some 
Bermuda Lilies, in pots, just going over. Will the 
bulbs do for next year? If so, what treatment 
should they have now?—0. V. W. 

[Bermuda Lilies are of very little use the 
second year after they have flowered in pots. 
Having been grown in the warmer climate of 
Bermuda, they are less hardy than the 
ordinary Liltum longiflorum, hence they can¬ 
not be planted out-of-doors with much pro¬ 
spect of success. If you wish to give them a 
trial, stand them out-of-doors after flowering, 
and water as before till the flower-stem dies 
down. Then turn them out of the pots and 
shake them clear of the old soil, when all 
bulbs that are in a satisfactory state may be 
repotted and treated as imported ones.] 

Treatment of Hydrangea. I have in m.v 
greenhouse a Hydrangea, which is just going over 
Will you kindly tell me whether I ought to cut it back 
to the old ripe wood, which is breaking freely? Two 
shoots are also starting from the base. Should it be 
shifted into a larger pot., as it is only in a 5-ineh pot 
now. or planted out in the garden? (. \ . . 

[Your Hydrangea should he cut back suf¬ 
ficiently to ensure a shapely plant, and 
shifted into ft larger pot. As the Hydrangea 
is a vigorous grower a pot 7 inches, or even 
ft inches, in diameter will not be too large. ,A 
soil consisting principally of loam, lightened! 


ROSES. 


HYBRID TEA SCENTED ROSES. 

This somewhat modern race provides the 
largest number of. our lvest exhibition kinds, 
many of the most esteemed garden sorts, and 
some of the choicest varieties for forcing. A 
fault which may l>e remedied in time is that 
of a similarity of tints in the colours, so 
many being shades of pink. Good crimsons 
are needed, and if these are forthcoming and 
possess the free-flowering qualities of the 
type, then we shall indeed have a splendid 
class of Roses, and old-time favourites will 
be ousted entirely. They are mostly of up¬ 
right growth, free to branch, and with excel¬ 
lent foliage. Many, again, are fragrant. The 
following are now in bloom on both cut-back 
trees and maidens -that is, from last year’s 
budding : — 

Alice Lindsell. — Creamy - white, w ith 
centre of a pink shade. This is a full, hand 
some, well-shaped flower, with a fine stiff 
stem, and useful alike for exhibition or the 
garden. 

Antoine Rivoire is a splendid kind for 
the garden and for cutting. It i« not of extra 
size, hut the shape is excellent, and the 
colours distinct. These are flesh-colour on 
yellow, sometimes tinted red. 

Betty is quite new. and is a most desir¬ 
able Rose, so very distinct in colour. Pink, 
buff, and yellow are shades of colour beauti¬ 
fully blended in this variety. It is lovely in 
the hud, which is long and pointed, but not 
an exhibition flower. It has few petals; 
these, however, are remarkably wide and 
deep. 

Bessie Brown. The great fault of this 
otherwise perfect. Rose is that of the bloom 
stalk being bent just under the flower. This 
makes it a difficult matter to set it up for 
show, and on the plant, the blossoms hang 
sideways. Still, it is a popular kind of a 
creamy-white colour. The new variety, Queen 
of Spain, is much the same in colour and 
form, and with an upright flower-stem. A 
great future is, therefore, expected of 


the 


future 
new-comer. 

Caroline Testout.— Little need be said 
of this delightful Rose, so well known as one 
of the finest all-round kinds yet raised. For 
exhibition, for the garden, and for forcing it 
is equally valuable. 

Charles J. -Grahams.— This is bright 
crimson-red in colour, and of noble form, hut 
as yet. with us, it has to prove its free flower¬ 
ing qualities. The plants seem nil leaves. 
The variety is too new to have given it a 
thorough trial. 

Dean Hole. This flower is variable in 
colour, the shades being yellow, deepening 
to huff, with pink tinges. It is of good size 
and form, and will he useful for exhibition. 
The centre of the bloom is high, pointed, and 
double, the growth free, and in all ways 

excellent. , . 

Dr. J. Campbell Hall.—T he blooms, 
light rose in colour, have a rounded, solid 
form, and are full. These qualities ensure 
a popularity for it as a show variety. 

. Florence Pemberton is another of those 
[inn alia ruAkinAin 


Jul/r 27 , 190? 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


979 


flowers with shades of flesh-pink colour. It 
is large, full, deep, with a high and pointed 
centre, free flowering, and of good growth. 
What more can be said of an exhibition 
Rose? 

Gustave Grunerwald.— This is a new 
variety of very considerable promise. The 
blooms are large, full, and with a lovely high 
centre ; colour, pink, with yellow shades. It 
is very free, and altogether a capital addition 
to the class. 

J. B. Clark. —This was thought by those 
who saw the magnificent blossoms a couple 
of years back from the raiser to be a really 
grand crimson Hybrid Tea Rose, blit, up to 
now, it has been somewhat a failure. Not in 
colour, size,.or form does it seem the same 
variety. One thing it has, and that is a 
wonderfully vigorous growth. Perhaps we 
prune it too much. Jt may be, the proper place 
for this Rose is against a pillar, or the long 
growths may be pegged down, so that the 
plant may carry a large number of blossoms. 
I shall try it in'these wavs. Very severe prun¬ 
ing ruins some Roses, and this may be one of 
them. 

Joseph Hill is a superb kind of French 
origin. Grand in size and shape ; in colour, 
salmon, shaded pink, it is a flower that 
stands out distinct. 

The growth is vigorous. 

This w ill be largely cul¬ 
tivated when more 
known. 

Killarney. — Its 
blooms, light pink in 
colour, are rather short 
in number of petals, 
but what there are sur¬ 
pass in size those of 
most Roses. This kind 
appeals to me in the 
charming shape of the 
bloom when in a haft- 
opened state. Its centre 
is perfect then. It is 
exceedingly free flower¬ 
ing, and, as a garden 
Rose, it is admirable. 

Lady Ashtown. — 

Colour, pale rose, a 
rich and charming 
shade ; the blooms 
large, deep, and most 
perfect in formation. 

Few Roses are more 
pleasing than this, and 
as the habit of growth 
of the plant is free and 
branching, we get a 
variety at once first- 
rate for ordinary cul¬ 
ture and for exhibition. 

La France.— This is 
too well-known to de¬ 
scribe. Old as it is, 
however, it is still one 
of the best of Roses, and. probably, the 
variety that was a start in obtaining the class 
termed Hybrid Teas. 

Le Proqres is a new kind of rare promise. 
It is distinct. The colour of the blooms is a 
pretty shade of yellow, the form exceedingly 
choice, and in size, if not gigantic, yet large 
enough to include in an exhibit. The foli¬ 
age is distinct, too, also vigorous. This is a 
Rose likely to bo much in favour. 

Mme. Abel Chatenay, in colour bright 
salmon-pink, is not an ideal sort for 
large show blooms, but for table decoration, 
or, in fact, any purposes to which cut blooms 
are put, is invaluable. A good standard, 
fine for the garden, and also first-rate as a 
forcing kind under glass, too much cannot 
be said of it. Such free and continuous Roses 
as thui are of far greater value generally than 
those, however perfect, that are useful only 
for competition about two or three weeks 
during tne summer. 

Mme. Ravary. —This is another first rate 
Rose for the garden, but not largo enough to 
suit exhibitors. Its colour is an orange 
shade of yellow, rich and distinct. The shape 
is good, fairly full, free flowering, with good 
foliage. 

Marquise Litta is a handsomely formed 
Rose, especially on newly budded plants. 
The growth is rat her moderate in vigour. 

Digitized by GCK 


and trees rarely last long enough to be railed 
old. The colour is a bright, rich, rosy-oai'- 
mine. Its petals are large, and they form a 
bloom of fine depth, and with a build peculiar 
to this variety. It is grand as a show flower 
when in good condition. 

Mildred Grant is the most massive and 
noble-looking of all Roses. It is a marvel¬ 
lous flower at its best, and essentially an 
exhibition kind. More medals for “the best 
bloom in the show” have been awarded to 
this than to any other variety ; colour, sil¬ 
very-white, bordered with pink. Its extra 
large petals attract, as well ns their great 
thickness, and no Rose lasts longer than this 
when cut. We have before now found fault 
with the growth of this kind, and it certainly 
is a trifle wanting in vigour, but. we have not 
had it so fine as it is this year. The plants 
were pruned but little; just the unripened 
points of the shoots removed, that is all. 
Never have we had such growth as the trees 
now carry, or such blooms. Here may l>e a 
hint worth following. That grand Rose, Frau 
Karl Druschki, is also a variety too much 
pruned, in my opinion. Two dozen dwarf 
trees, a yard through, which I have near me, 
are a very strong proof that the matter is 
worth considering. 


Mrs. Conway Jones. This (here figured) 
is one of the many Hybrid Teas which may 
be described as creamy white, with tint of 
pink. It. is, however, one that must be in¬ 
cluded in a good selection. The shape and 
size of its blossoms are first rate, and the 
growth of the plant good. 

Mrs. David McKee. Here is a new Rose 
of the very highest excellence. Creamy-yeL- 
low in colour, its blooms are of large size 
and excellent build. As an exhibition sort, 
it is good, for the garden equally so, and ns 
a pot plant may be recommended. In all 
respects it is an improved Kaiserin Augusta 
Victoria. 

Mrs. J. W. Grant.—T his variety is pretty 
well known, and is much esteemed for its 
colour, a bright rich pink. Although a trifle 
thin, and, therefore, short-lived, its blooms 
are beautiful in shape, and it is free flower¬ 
ing. There is a climbing variety of the type 
well worth planting. It is, I think, more 
useful than the original kind. It is one of 
the earliest to flower. 

Prince de Buloarie is a lovely garden 
variety ; it is so free to flower. Tiie colour 
is a rosy-flesh shade ; the shape, too, is desir¬ 
able. 

Pharisaer. This improves ns time goes 
on. and I fully expect to find it valuable for 
the exhibition ; colour, a light salmon pink. 


Its shape is that long, pointed, centred type, 
with huge outside petals, at once telling and 
handsome. It is free flowering, with capital 
growtli and foliage. 

Richmond. —This is a new Rose, which 
may surpass the variety Liberty. Neither is 
a show flower, but for the garden, and more 
especially for forcing, they are unequalled in 
their colour, rich vivid crimson. The newer 
kind has a shade of colour a trifle the darker, 
and, grown side by side, it appears slightly 
the stronger grower. 

Robert Scott, when first introduced, was 
admired, but somehow it has never become 
generally grown. The habit as a cut back 
tree is rather weakly. See it on newly- 
budded stocks, and it at once attracts atten¬ 
tion. The blooms are finer than those of the 
variety Her Majesty or Mrs. G. Sharman 
Crawford. It resembles the latter very much 
in its light shade of pink and in the shape of 
the petals, but in build it is more solid and 
larger. 1 like this Rose, which is of Ameri¬ 
can origin, very much. 

Souvenir du President Carnot is yet 
another of those Roses of a flesh-pink shade 
of colour, but it is so free in growth and iu 
flowering that, it is recommended as a really 
fine kind to form a standard tree. 

White Lady.— This is a show Rose only. 
The growth is somewhat moderate, but the 
flowers are very finely proportioned in size 
and shape. Newly-budded plants are best in 
the case of this variety. Its flowers are not 
pure white, but of a creamy hue. 

Viscountess Folkestone.— The shape of 
the bloom is not such as exhibitors admire, 
yet this is a grand Rose. For the garden 
there is not another more ehowy or one more 
free. It is especially useful for this pur¬ 
pose ; also for pots. H. S. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Mildew on Rose I shall be obliged if you will 
let me know what is the disease that has attacked 
the Rose tree of which 1 enclose a small specimen, 
and how it should be treated? I only came here 
last autumn, and tins is one of the Roses I found in 
the garden. 1 pruned it back and transplanted it, 
as also many others, which are doing very well.—A 
Bf.ginskr. 

[The white appearance of the shoot and 
bud is caused by mildew, a fungus to which 
Rosea are particularly susceptible. The 
variety we believe to bo Her Majesty, which 
is a terribly bad one to take mildew. You 
may be able to check the further spread of 
the fungus by (wringing the shoots and im¬ 
mersing them, where practicable, in a solu¬ 
tion made by dissolving half a bar of carbolic 
soap in a gallon of water, and then, when it 
has boiled, adding 2b gals, more water. This 
is a capital remedy for mildew, either under 
glass or outdoors, and it also acts as a preven¬ 
tive of green-fly. Some of the very white 
portions of the plants we should advise you 
to cut awav and burn, as they might infect 
other Roses.] 

Roses for Scotch garden. Please name six or 
eight Roses for a garden with eastern and southern 
exposure, soil good loam, in which Roses do very 
well (too cold for Tea Roses)? 1 have already the 
following: Boule de Neige, Baroness Rothschild, Frau 
Karl Druschki, Margaret Dickson, Liloire de Dijon, 
Caroline Testout, (iloire Lynnnaise, Killarney. 
Liberty, Mme. Fernet Ditcher, Mine. Ravary, Mine. 
Hoste, The Bride, ('limbing Devoniensis, Ards 
Rover, Dorothy Perkins. Ilarrisoni.— Di mbartonsiiirk. 

[We think you would find the following 
answer your purpose very well:—Ulrich 
Brunner, Mrs. John Laing, Hugh Dickson, 
Pharisaer, Grace Darling. Mine. Jules 
Grolez, Dr. J. Campbell Hall, and Gustave 
Grunerwald.] 

Rose Francois Crousse.— Tf this were a 
dwarf grower instead of a climber, it would 
make a formidable rival to Liberty. The 
buds are of good form, as beautiful, and 
even more brilliant, than those of Liberty. 
It may be used to good effect as a hedge Rose, 
where its growths can be retained some 4 feet 
to fi feet in length, which ensures a free 
blossoming all up the shoot. It is, without 
doubt, our best scarlet climber that has any 
pretensions to an autumn-flowering habit. I 
do not forget Gruss an Teplitz, but I prefer 
a well-grown Franyoia Crousse individual 
bloom to one of Gruss an Teplitz. It makes 
a delightful standard., although, as such, it is 
easily lteateil bv Gruss an Teplitz. Rosa. 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 







2 SO 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Jult 27, 1907 


CHRY8ANTHEMUMS. 


SEASONABLE NOTES. 

PLANTS of these do not appear to me to be 
so large or 60 early in regard to the forma¬ 
tion of flower-buds as they have been at this 
time in recent years. The absence of sun and 
the long epeli of cold winds experienced 
account for this. In the south backwardness 
will have its benefits subsequently, inasmuch 
as we may retain early buds, which, in some 
seasons, we are doubtful about. This will 
help those growers who intend their plants 
for exhibition flowers, a phase of culture that 
may or may not be so popular as formerly. 
Still, there is a very large percentage of 
growers, amateurs and others, who like the 
blossoms as big as it is possible to get them. 
For these I would make one or two sugges¬ 
tions, as it is time to think of that vexed 
point of bud-taking. 

I do not favour a specified date for each 
variety. This, to my mind, does not help the 
grower in the least; only confuses one. The 
« hief things are the state of the plants and 
the season. The growth being backward, 
then, would make it safe to retain flower- 
buds from this date. Large Chrysanthe¬ 
mum blooms are obtained by allowing for a 
Jong period for their development. At this 
time of the year we cut short the growth in 
its upward direction, by this artificial means 
of pinching it away from the crown-buds 
natural to most kinds. What an amateur, 
or, rather, let me say a new grower, re¬ 
quires to know is the difference between a 
crown-bud and other flower-buds. A crown 
bud is one that is formed by making the top 
of a Chrysanthemum growth or stem branch 
into other stems a temporary stoppage, as it 
were. It is small, and may lx* almost bidden 
among the equally small branches. But the 
important part, is, that if these young stems 
and leaves are not removed in the young 
stage, to make room for the flower-bud, they 
quickly envelop it. It becomes lost in their 
development. Thus the crown-bud must be 
secured for perfecting a large bloom, ns later 
in the season, when the plant gives its cluster 
of buds in a natural way, at the tip of each 
stem, they will not, even if thinned to one 
on a branch, produce those huge heads so 
much admired at. the autumn exhibitions. 

This bud selection need not disturb those 
who grow’ the flower for what mav be termed 
ordinary purposes. Cultivate'the plants 
well, of course, and the reward will bo abun¬ 
dance of not less beautiful, if smaller, blooms 
at the period of the year that has made the 
Chrysanthemum so valuable. I would not 
top the growth of any plant, either to make 
the blooms come late or to form a bushy 
plant. These matters are better regulated 
by the time of striking the cuttings and by 
proper selection of varieties. If large plants 
are required, strike the cuttings early, and 
if late blossoms are needed, then grow sorts 
that will not come into flower until late in 
the season. There is a wide field in the way 
of varieties in the Chrysanthemum. They 
may be had in bloom from August until after 
the end of the year. Tying the growth 
securely is an item that demands attention. 
It is not pleasant to find the best stems blown 
off by wind or damaged by rain. Stout 
branches may have strong sticks, but the side 
growths may be supported by raffia or any 
such material. 

Watering this year lias not been such a 
laborious operation as usual. It will be well 
to give the plants a top-dressing now ; more 
especially if at potting-time the pots were not 
filled almost to the rim with soil. This new 
soil will aid surface roots. Some growers 
use horse-droppings or rotten cow-manure. 
It will lie well to refrain from manure*? in a 
concentrated form, as guano. It is so easy 
to overdo them, and thus get an opposite 
effect, from that desired. The mould used 
for potting would be much better. 

Earlv flowering varieties planted in open 
ground look well, and promise a good harvest 
of blossom. A damp season lias suited them. 
With the exception of just one stick to each 
plant, these require but little attention. Do 
not top these. I.et each sort assume its 
natural habit, as they usually come bnshv 
enough. Like mast subjects, these repay 

Digitized by (jQ^ glC 


growing in good, well-cultivated ground. It 
is too much the rule with many to plant early 
Chrysanthemums in any out-of-the way 
corner, or, perhaps, under the shade ami 
drip of trees, and then wonder why they do 
not grow or flower well. H. S. 


GARDEN PE8T8 AND FRIENDS. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Name wanted. I "ill feel much obliged If you 
will kindly Hay what kind of fly the enclosed is and 
whether it is injurious? —R. G. 

[The fly you sent is quite harmless, from a 
horticultural point of view, as neither it nor 
its grubs would injure plants in any way. It 
is one of the blood sucking flies nearly allied 
to the common house-fly.—G. 8. 8.] 

The Rose-chafer —Could you kindly inform me 
what is the name of the larva of the Rose chafer and 
where I could find it described and illustrated?— 
Rosechafer. 

[The grubs of the Rose-chafer are very 
much like those of the common cockchafer; 
in fact, they resemble one another so closely 
that it is not easy to distinguish them apart. 
They are equally injurious to the roots of 
plants. They are fat, much-wrinkled grubs, 
about l.J inch in length, with a pair of very 
thin legs on each of the first three joints of 
the body ; the tail of the grub is somewhat 
thicker than the rest of the body, and is 
generally of a rather bluish colour, owing to 
its contents. This part of the grub is gener¬ 
ally turned beneath it. This insect is figured 
in all its stages of development in Miss 
Ormerod’s “Manual of Injurious Insects,” 
/page 365. G. S. S.J 

Apple tree leaves, fungus on. Would you 

kindly tell me the name of the di**ase attacking my 
Apple trees, some leaves of which I enclose? Also, 
can it he arrested or destroyed? It. is quite spoiling 
some young trees, all the foliage being shrivelled up. 
-W. M. 

[Your Apple-leaves are infested by the leaf- 
scale fungus (Entomosporium maeulatum). 
I do not think that there is much to be done 
now, except collect and burn the affected 
leaves. Next season, as soon as the first 
leaves have developed, spray with a very 
dilute solution of Bordeaux mixture, and re¬ 
peat the spraying once or twice a month, 
until August, gradually increasing the 
strength of the mixture. Shoots and branches 
which have borne diseased leaves should be 
cut hack hard when pruning, as it is sup¬ 
posed that the spawn of the fungus passes the 
winter in the shoots, etc,—G. S. S.] 

Grubs destroying plants In the packet sent 
you will find two kinds of grubs—one, small while, 
and the other like n small worm. I should be glad to 
know if they are injurious to plants. Several of m.v 
plants from time to time have just faded away, and 
in nearly every case I find these insects at the roots. 
It has been suggested that they come in 1 lie manure, 
but inside plants are also attacked by them. 1 should 
be glad to know of u remedy, if there is one?— 
E. M. F. 

[The little worms that you enclosed arc 
nearly allied to the common earthworms, but 
they belong to a different family (the Enchy- 
trseidee). Those you sent were all of one 
kind, though some were of a different colour, 
owing to the contents of their stomachs. 
They are easily killed by immersing them in 
lime-water, dying within a minute, so that if 
you could soak vour soil with lime-water I 
have no doubt that you would destroy them. 
I am not aware that they are particularly 
fond of living in manure ; they are certainly 
very destructive pests.—G. S. S.J 

Injured Pine trees —Kindly tell me what the 
worm enclosed is? It has done the shoots of young Firs 
great damage this season. The Firs have been 
planted three years, and were strong, healthy trees. 
Now the young shoots arc quite eaten away by this 
grub. Is there any solution with which 1 could 
syringe them?—A. Howard. 

[The shoots of your young Firs are attacked 
by the caterpillars of the Pine tortrix moth 
(Retinia Buoliana). The most effective way 
of dealing with this insect is to out off the 
infested shoots and burn them. No insecti¬ 
cide can be made to reach the caterpillars, 
but the moths may be caught in butterfly nets 
when they are flying about the trees in May 
or early June. They are small insects, 
measuring hardly an inch across the open 
wings, and are of an orange-red colour. - 
G. S. 8.] 

Tufted Pansies injured — Several of my Tufted 

Pansies have been killed by the small worms you will 
find enclosed. Will you kindly let me know the uume 


of the worms and the method of getting rid of 
them?—SiDMOl'TH. 

[The email worms that you find at the roots 
of your Pansies are one of the millipede® 
(Polydesmus complanatus), the flattened snake 
millipede, or galley worm. They are very 
destructive in gardens and very difficult to 
destroy, as watering with insecticides has no 
effect on them. They may be caught by means 
of traps of slices of Turnips, Mangold Wurt- 
zel, Carrots, or Potatoes buried near the 
plants they are attacking, just below the sur¬ 
face of the 6oil. These baits should l>e 
examined every morning. A small skewer 
6tuck into each renders them easier to handle, 
and shows where they are. A good dressing 
of gas-lime would kill them, but you could 
not crop the ground for some months at least. 

-G. S. 8.] 

Millipedes eating Strawberries —Will you 

kindly tell me what this creature is which is devour¬ 
ing my Strawberries, and how to get rid of it?— 
It! NORA. 

[The creature that you found eating your 
Strawberries is a specimen of one of the 
snake millipedes (J ill us londinensis). The 
members of this family seem particularly fond 
of this fruit, and, while they are to be had. 
I doubt if the millipedes can l>e attracted 
from them by the baits which will often draw 
them away from the roots of plants. Plac¬ 
ing straw or lawn mowings, ns is often done, 
provides these pests with shelter which they 
would not otherwise have. It is far better, 
when possible, to raise the fruit from the 
ground by some kind of support, as it helps 
to preserve it from the attacks of various 
pests, and enables it to ripen better.— 
G. 8. S.J 

Lillum candidum falling.— Y!an you kindly t-11 
me what is the cause of my I.niuni candidum going 
all spotted and dying oil? j enclose sample leaves 
tor you to see. — Hidmoutii. 

[I am sorry to have to tell you that your 
Lilies an* attacked by the Lily disease caused 
by a fungus belonging to the genus Botrvtis 
or Sclerotinia. These genera are merely dif¬ 
ferent forms of the same fungus, and the pest 
is, perhaps, better kirmvn by the name of 
Botrytis elliptica than by any other. The 
best thing that you can do is to at once cut 
off the diseased portions and burn them, to 
prevent the spores from germinating. If the 
plants are very badly attacked the lx*6t thing 
would be to dig up the bulbs and burn the 
whole plant. Next season at the first signs of 
this disease sprav the plants with Bordeaux 
mixture.—G. 8. 8.] 

Destroying slugs. —It was with great 
interest that I read the note of “L. C. K.” 
in your issue of June 22nd, describing his 
method of destroying slugs. I would, how¬ 
ever. respectfully point out that the note 
would have been far more useful if the writer 
had gone more into the details of the pro¬ 
cess, so as to afford your readers an assur¬ 
ance of success in their first attempts to deal 
with these destructive pests. I am sure there 
are many who would be grateful to 
“L. C. K.” if he would write again more 
fully on the subject, and 6tate, for instance, 
how he slakes the lime, whether by air or 
water, also what quantity should be used in 
a given measure of water, and whether the 
solution can be applied whilst plants are in 
the border or only after their removal. A 
further hint might be given us as to the 
frequency of the application, etc. As 
“L. C. K.” is a reader of Gardening, I hope 
he may meet this request, and that he will 
1>3 so good as to afford the desired informa¬ 
tion.—L. O. L. 

The Pine-weevil.—I should he very pleased if 
you could tell me the name of the enclosed weevil? 
I found it on the stem of an Aealyplia. As it is the 
first of the kind I have seen, I should he pleased if 
you would tell me something about it.—G. B. Critick- 
SMANK. 

[The weevil you sent which you found on 
your Acalynha is the Pine-weevil (Hylobius 
abietis). I should imagine that it was on 
your plant by chance. I have hitherto al¬ 
ways regarded it as a pest only on Fir-trees. 
It gnaws the bark of the young shoots and 
lays its eggs under the bark of those trees 
which are not in vigorous growth. Perhaps 
von have souk* Fir-trees from which the in¬ 
sect may have fallen on to your Acalypha. 

1 do not think von will find it common on 
that plant.-G. ST r WJ iai Tnjm 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




July 27, 1907 GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 281 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 

WHITE AND SPOTTED FOXGLOVES 
ALONGSIDE HALF-OPEN PERGOLA. 
What should we have done without hardy 
flowers this poor season, when all the half- 
hardy plants shiver in the rainstorms? There 
would have been no flower-garden without the 
hardy things from Narcissus time to that of the 
Delphinium and Foxglove. The group of 
Foxgloves hero shown ran along tho flank of 


THE FINER NARCISSI. 

A generation ago these plants, beyond a 
few of one or two kinds used for forcing, did 
not exist in private gardens, though the wild 
! kind cheered us here and there in the fields. 
Since that time the greatest improvement 
ever made in a garden flower has taken place, 
and the country garden is made bright by them 
for two or three months in the spring. The 
beautiful collection shown by Miss Willmott, I 
at the Horticultural Hall, was a revelation of 
the delightful forms and fine colours de- 


eventually form beautiful ornaments for wood¬ 
land rides, orchards, anywhere in Grass. 
Any rough, useless spots will do ; the very 
worst wet soils are enjoyed by some kinds. 
| Sometimes they fail in warm soils ; often the 
worst and coarsest clays or wet, strong soils, 
I where nothing but trees and Briers flourish, 
| suit them well. 

It is strange that this galaxy of beauty 
should never have come into our gardens 
before recent years, as they were always in 
I great evidence on the mountains of Euiojm*, 



Foxgloves by the side of a pergola. 


an open oergola, and is as effective in bloom as 
one coulcl desire. Good however as they are 
as flower garden plants, the highest value of 
the Foxglove is seen in slirubbery and woody 
places, where one may Fcatter the seed about 
in a careless way. In tlie autumn two years 
ago I scattered Foxglove seed in a wood along¬ 
side a Grass tide, and now there is a stately 
regiment of Foxgloves on either hand, with u 
background of trees and underwood, and fine 
relief here and there of Bracken. The seed 
was not covered—just scattered broadcast. 



I veloped iu these flowers of recent years. 

Wild kinds which once only existed in botanic 
| gardens are the parents of these fine gains, 
and the gain in garden varieties is nothing 
less than wonderful. 

Many of these are still rare, and some 
are very high in price, but they mostly in¬ 
crease very rapidly, and will, at no very dis¬ 
tant day, take a high place in the adornment 
of our gardens. When so rare they had best 
be grown in rich soil in the kitchen garden, 
where they will get attention, be divided now 
and then, and in all cool soils they will 


where sheets of the “Poets” charmed the 
traveller, often opening late in summer 
where the ground was very high. As they 
are now being planted in thousands in many 
places, it may be well to speak a word 
of caution against putting them in Grass 
which is eventually to be mown for hay. 
There are usually around our country places 
opportunities for planting them without spoil¬ 
ing every bit of Grass that is to be cut for the 
use of animals. It is a common mistake to 
put them everywhere, and we lose their effect 
by not having the repose of Grass between 















2S2 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


July 27, 1997 


the groups nr masses. When the commoner 
kinds are cheap there ie a tendency to overdo. 
By woodland rides they are perfectly happy, 
and also by the sidee of ponds and many like 
situations which are not required for mowing. 

The following is a list of the kinds shown 
by Miss Willmott, and for which the gold 
medal was awarded. They may be taken as 
the cream of the kinds in cultivation. 

Inoompafabilis. 

Great Warley Lemon Queen 

Charles Wolley Dod Noble 

Aladdin Amber 

Charlemagne Adjutant 

Bess of Hardwick Solfatare 

Sevfriedsberg 
Ajax. 

\ Sir Dighton 

I 4 giant 
j bicolors 


Warleyemis 
King Alfred 
A dour 

Owen Wolley Dod 
Lord M uncaster 
giant Emperor) 
Golden Bell 


Sihon 
Og 

Cormoran 
Blunderbore 
Ellen 

Willmott Other 
Weardale good 

Coronet I bicolors 

Norma ' 

Red Crowns. 

Warley Scarlet (the finest and most beautiful 
flow'er yet raised among the red crowns). 
Broadwing. 

Will Scarlett, w ith glowing immense crown. 
Watchfire. 

Lucifer. 

Mars, Vulcan, Occident, yellow perianths 
(these three perfect flowers among the yellow- 
perianths). 

Hellersberg. 

St. George, a brilliant flow'er. 

Torch, glowing crown, very large perianth, 
yellow. 

Oriflamme, white perianth. 

Crisset, small neat, perfect shape, white 
perianth. 

Firefly, miniature Burbidgei, small, beautifully 
formed. 

Astradente. Aftermath, latest. Southern 
Star, very early. 

Johnston i Hvbbids. 

Earl Grey (lemon self) Rev. Chailes Digby 
Count Visconti (ycl- (bicolor) 


low self) 

Cecil Rhodes (yellow' 
self) 

Countess Grey (bicolor) 
Lady Rayleigh (bi¬ 
color) 


Snowdrop 
Eleanor Berkele}' 

Flag of Truce (very 
fine) 

Ada 

Betty Beikeley 


Lady Jane Trefusis 
WlI.LMOTTI. 

Moonstone and Moonlight (pure white). 
Cory don (bi color). 

Minnie Humk Crosses. 

White Queen, Mrs. Beikeley, Robert Berkeley 
(these 3 extra fine). 

Leeds i. 


White Lady 
Water w’itch 
Lucia 
Dryad 
Enid 


Elaine 

Diana 

Ariadne 

Lilian 

Undine 


SOME WET WEATHER FLOWERS. 
Most certainly these arc the kinde that are 
needed this season, and what flowers there 
are continue to open in spite of the lack of 
sunshine and warmth, and not as a result of 
these. As we may—though it is to be hoped 
not—have a repetition of the Game sort of 
weather another year, I here note those that 
are flowering well in the open borders under 
weather conditions go opposite to thofie that 
usually prevail at this season of the year. 
Tuberous Begonias are the gayest of all, and 
impervious to injury from the heaviest rain. 
The growth of the plant is not so kindly as 
in warm nnd drier w’eather, but the flowers 
are finer ; the trusses are so abnormally over¬ 
weighted that most of them have had to he 
tied up with small sticks, notwithstanding 
the sturdy character of the flower-stems. The 
fibrous-rooted varieties are in no way behind 
as regards both growth and free production 
of flowers. Fuchsias are excellent wet- 
weather plants, but this season they are 
especially good, nnd not a flower seems ever 
to be the worse for the almost daily deluge 
of rain they have had for the last few vveeks. 
In this connection, because they are inter¬ 
mixed with the Fuchsias, I must mention 
what is now' commonly called the Blue Mar¬ 
guerite (Agathrea ccele«tis) as being of first 
rate merit as a bedding plant for all 
weathers. The real Marguerites, both yellow 
and white flowered varieties, nre all of them 
worthy of classification amongst good flower 
ing wet-weather plants, and everybody 
knows they nre first-rate when heat and 
drought prevail, as long as they get 
moderate supplies of artificial watering. 
Tufted Pansies of all sorts, as everybody 
would expect, are a mass of flowers. Helio¬ 
tropes, Ageratums, Verbenas, and Cal¬ 
ceolarias are also good wet-weather flowers. 
Delphiniums are splendid. All the Spiraeas 
are just as beautiful, and in no way injured 
by wet. The Japanese Anemones relish the 
wet thoroughly. The two varieties of Day 
Lily (Hemerocollis flava and IL fulva) are 
carrying an immense number of flowers, 
which, though each lasts but a single day, are 
so numerous that up to the present they have 
produced a im»t gay effect. W. 


POETICUS. 

Rochester Terence 

Almira Chaucer 

Cassandra Rhymester 

Cowper Epic 

Adelaide Ann Proctor 

New crosses between Incomparabilis Bur¬ 
bidgei, Leedsi, Poeticus, etc , with white 
perianths, and crowns of yellow or red, or 
suffused or edged red 

Lady Dorothy Nevill Bianca 
Albatross Camilla 

Seagull Valeria 

White Ensign Incognita 

Seabird 

Some of the best new : — 

White Ajax. 

St. Helen (the most Helen Countess of 


lovely, shapely white 
trumpet ever seen) 
Furstin Marie 

Oettingen 

Francisca 
White Sergeant 
Pregny 
Elizabeth 

ui; iti;>: 


Radnor 

St. Cecilia 
Earl of Morlev 
Duchess of Wellington 
White Knight 
Lady Foster 
Mrs. Robert 

denham 


"'•"'(So .gle* 


DAHLIAS: SUMMER WORK. 

For Gome time after being planted in their 
permanent quarters the growth of Dahlias 
appears to be almost at a standstill. This 
may be so with regard to the tops, but all the 
time the roota will l>e found to be very active. 
Seemingly all at once the stems and leaves 
thicken, ‘and rapid progress is made. My 
Dahlias arc now (mid-July) in this latter con¬ 
dition, and they require considerable atten¬ 
tion, more especially in the matter of tying. 
A stout etick is put against each plant at 
the time of planting, and cne tie to each then 
given. Now, in some cases, the side shoots 
want training, too. Three or four stout 
canes are used for each root, these being put 
in with the tops sLanting in an outward 
direction, because by and-bye I like to keep 
the centre of what will then be a large bush 
free from crowded growth. The four stakes 
take one side branch each, and these, with 
the central one, are enough to form the 
future specimen. Other growths are removed 
early, so as to provide room for the proper 
development of those retained. Afterwards 
stout string is put around every plant; this 
is usually all the tying I find necessary. Some 
of the varieties may now have formed flower- 
buds on the central stem. It is well to re¬ 
move these, as Dahlias are not wanted so 
early in the year. Keep the ground free 
from weeds -an important item in connection 
with the cultivation of alL plants. I have 
not found it necessary to water since plant¬ 
ing. and the rains have also kept aphides 
(usually a black kind) away. On the firet ap¬ 
pearance of this pest, the points of growth 
should be dusted with Tobacco-powder, and 
then cleansed with water an hour or two 
afterwards. Dahlias are singularly free from 
troublesome diseases. I know of nothing in 
this way that cannot be dealt with readily. 
The mole, my worst enemy, has a curious 
habit of burrowing under and lifting the roots 
of varieties upon which 1 set the most valiuf. 


A trial of Dahlias at the Wisley gardens 
of the Royal Horticultural Soicety should 
this year be interesting to lovers of these 
flowers. New kinds have been sent there by 
various raisers, the object being to test their 
value as garden plants, particularly in regard 
to free-flowering qualities, and whether or not 
they throw up the blossoms on stems well 
above the foliage. This is a great point, but 
I am sure there is much improvement in this 
habit in the case of recently raised kinds. 
What I would call perfection in flowers is 
reached very slowly, but when one remembers 
such sorts ’as Lady Penzance and Delicata, 
the flower-stems of which were only an inch 
or two in length, I think it will be agreed 
that those connected with Dahlias, especially 
the Cactus type, have done much good. 
There is one phase of Dahlia culture that 
certainly does not appeal to me, that is the 
introduction of a class of singles and semi- 
doubles known as the Pteony-flowered huge, 
ungainly things. I call them mongrels. In 
fact, among a few thousand seedlings of the 
better type of Cactus Dahlias last year 1 
found nearly all the colours which have been 
given distinctive names, and, of course, pulled 
them up as being rogues, before the bee6 had 
any chance of carrying pollen to choicer 
kinds. . * 

PLANTS FAILING. 

To the Editor of Gardening Illustrated. 

Sir,—I enclose a stein of Veronica longi- 
folia as an example of what frequently occurs 
in my garden—namely, a rotting of the stem 
at. or a little above the ground level. In the 
softer stemmed plants it is a shrivelling or 
drying up of the stem, but sometimes the 
latter droops and dies without any visible 
decaving or shrivelling of either 6tem or 
root.’ Also, in some instances, especially 
with Pvrethrums, the shrivelling takes place 
on the peduncle a little below the head. These 
effects may all be clue to different causes, but 
they are all equally mysterious to me. 1 have 
seen heads of several species, especially 
Spirit*as, droop and die from the puncture of 
a weevil, but have seen no evidence of their 
presence on Pvrethrums. My soil is poor, 
light, and sandy, but by tlie liberal use of 
manure of various kinds 1 get quite satis¬ 
factory average results, and no manure or 
stimulant has been used for quite four 
months. Can it be due to the use of old rub¬ 
bish-heaps only one year old instead of two, 
as recommended by a correspondent in your 
journal recently, the undecayed half-woody 
steins of the strong herbaceous plants induc¬ 
ing a fungoid growth? 

• 6 A. H. W. D. 


The Arctic Chrysanthemum.— A pretty 
little, nnd most enduring, plant is at present 
in bloom with me, and. as it seems but little 
known, a note upon it may be acceptable. 
This is the Arctic Chrysanthemum, C. arti- 
cuiu, a little Marguerite-like flower, which 
opens white, and passes to a delicate pink or 
rose. One of my small groups is close to a 
mass of Saponaria ocymoides, and since it 
has assumed this pink hue, the harmony of 
colour has been delightful between the soft 
pink of the Chrysanthemum and the warmer 
tone of the Basil leaved Soapwort. 1 got it 
many years ago from the late Mr. Bruce 
Findlay, of the Manchester Botanic Gardens, 
and one has no need to lose it, so hardy and 
free is it in the garden. It has, indeed, a 
rather running habit at the roots, but this is 
not so pronounced as to be troublesome, and 
the plant is easily kept in bounds. In strong 
soil it may grow too rampant and lose much 
of its character, but if in a poor soil it is not 
more than six or nine inches high. There it 
is very pretty, with its upright stems, sur 
mounted by rather starry flowers, each from 
an inch to an inch and a half across. It is 
easily increased by division.—S. Arnott. 

Hydrangeas .—These most useful plants, that 
have been very beautiful of late in the conservatory, 
are now making a grand show in the garden. In no 
way are they more effective than when planted in 
large tubs or blocks of wood, such as the hollow stems 
of large trees, out into lengths of 3 feet or 4 feel, 
and set in recesses of the lawn. If these are filled 
with good loam, and a young, bushy Hydrangea 
planted in the middle and kept well watered, it will 
grow into a beautiful mass, as the outer shoots will 
I droop l ight dow n ter the ground. J. U. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


Ji-I.Y 2‘, 190? 


CAll bfiJVlJvG 111 VsfUATFl). 


2S3 


CALCEOLARIA GOLDEN GEM. 
Among the yellow-flowered Calceolarias none 
equals this. It has a dwarf, sturdy habit, 
and produces during the season a constant 
succession of rich golden-yellow flowers. In 
some localities the cultivation of the Calceo¬ 
laria has had to be given up, owing to a 
disease that suddenly attacks it. Plants thnt 
are in full flower one day are often found 
drooping and withered the next, the stem 
iust at the ground-line being black below the 
bark. Golden Gem, however, if kept in cold 
frames during the winter, and only covered 
up when the weather is very severe, seems 
to be proof against this trouble - at least, in 
our ease, it has never Iveen so subject to the 
disease as some of the other kinds. Calceo¬ 
larias do best in moderately stilt soil, and if 
this is given a good watering when planted, 
it i6 seldom that any more is required during 
the season. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Belladonna Lilies.— Can you tell me how to 
make the Belladonna Lily flower? I have had several 
healthy plants for ten years, but never a bloom. I 


when the leaves have matured till flowering 
begins. In pots it is only possible to do 
justice to these tilings by using pots not less 
than 10 inches across, growing the plants 
quickly and well in a eunny position in u cool 
greenhouse, and when growth is finished, pro¬ 
viding absolute rest for the plants by placing 
them in a position fully exposed to the sun 
for some months, during which no water 
should be given them. In the south these 
plants are more easily managed if planted in 
quite hot positions.] 

Lillums for Scotland -Please name a few 
T.iliums which would be quite hardy here, and flower 
, before the end of July or in September.' Lilium 
I eandidum and Martagon album do splendidly year 
after year. I)t [ M bartonshirf. 

[For parly-flowering you cannot do better 
than add the following, all of which are 
distinct and good, and, as a rule, reliable in 
; a great variety of soils. For early kinds L. 

Hansoni, L. testaceum, L. colchicum, while 
i for later flowering L. tigrinum, Fortunei, 
I L. t. splendens, L. species uni Melpomene, 
| L. s. rubrum eriientuin, L. s. Krrctzeri, L. 
Martagon dalmaticuui, L. Henryi, L. Browni 



Calceolaria Goltlgn Gem. 


have fried them both under glass and in open garden. 
— Rotherham, Yorks. 

[Only in the very hottest positions in your 
district, and if planted at, the foot of a south 
wall, would it l>e possible to flower thine 
things in the open air. If you have a green¬ 
house facing south, a well-made border in 
front of this would be the best position for 
the plants ; failing this, the foot of a wall 
facing south or south-west. The soil should 
be deep and made up of pasture loam, with 
plenty of sand and old mortar to nearly one- 
third the whole, if the soil is heavy, and less 
if the soil be light. Quite 2 feet deep of good 
soil is necessary with perfect drainage, and 
the bulbs should be planted as soon as the 
foliage decays. Set the bulbs 6 inches below 
the surface. The plant is nmpatient of fre¬ 
quent removal, and. taking a long time to re¬ 
cover, should only be disturbed when abso¬ 
lutely necessary. Frequent potting or re 
planting is most disastrous to its growth and 
flowering. We have now a quantify of bulbs, 
some as large as a fair-sized Mangel, that 
have l>een in position four years and given 
only one spike. We are expecting more this 
year by the size of^tia^ leafage. Perfect over 
head dryness gjio ’ 


or tin* leafage. Perfect over- 
p»Acl be/siyui d iol th* plants 


leueantbiim, etc. It is highly probable, too, 
that L. auratuin platyphyllum (one of the 
noblest of all Lilies) would come in grandly 
with you. The Panther Lily (L. pardalinuin) 
would be perhaps early for you, flowering in 
England in August, yet it is a most effective 
species when in bloom. Shade or moisture is 
best for this, and some peat may be added to 
the soil with advantage. We strongly advise 
you to increase or add to the two kinds you 
name, which do so well year after year.] 

Plant for pond. —A friend of mine lias a small 
pond in her garden, which is cemented bottom and 
sides. She wants to keep the water clean and have 
gold fish. In centre of pond is a very large drain¬ 
pipe fixed, filled with soil. What is the best thing for 
her to grow in this? 1 proposed Water Lilies. 
Would they grow down over the sides of pipe and 
partly hide it?-S kisdon. 

[If the top of the drain pipe is well below 
the surface of the water, the Lilies may suc¬ 
ceed, but not, otherwise. Most Water Lilies 
require to be immersed in a good depth of 
water, and great vigour is usually the out¬ 
come of this. The foliage of the Water Lilies 
would not in any ease <1rnp« the sides of the 
pipe, but float out upon the surface of the 
water. A more likely plant would be the 
Gunnera, or I hat fine waterside Grass, the 


G&lingale, while best of all plants is, we 
think, the Royal Fern (Osmunda regalia). If 
the top of the pipe is but a few inches under 
water, the double-flowered Arrow-head (Sagit- 
taria japonica fl.-pl.) would be the best, plant¬ 
ing the crowns near the edge of the pipe, so 
that a quicker covering would result. We 
are afraid we cannot suggest anything for 
keeping the water clean, a drawback inti¬ 
mately connected with the water itself.] 

Sweet Williams.— In view of the greater 
demand for many of our old-fashioned flower¬ 
ing plants, I should like to call attention to 
Sweet Williams, seed of which may be sown 
in the open ground now, for blooming another 
year. They are very beautiful for massing 
together in beds or borders, and though their 
flowering season is not of long duration, they 
are very attractive whilst with us. In sowing 
seed, care should be taken that the situation 
is a eunny and open one, and that the soil 
is light. In planting the young seedlings 
out they should be where they will get 
the advantage of sun, and overhanging trees 
should be avoided if possible. I have found 
that it pays to attend to details like these. 
The error is sometimes made of leaving plants 
in the seed bed, and planting them out in 
spring; but. no greater mistake could be 
made, for they become weakened by close 
contact with each other. Much better is it 
to prick them out as soon as they are large 
enough, and plant them in their Anal quarters 
in October.—F. W. 13. 

Lilium eandidum.— One of the old garden 
flowers to be met with is the white Madonna 
Lily (Lilium eandidum). We meet with it in 
country gardens, in the same place year by 
year, flowering with a freedom that to some 
is surprising, and not a little mysterious 
after our own experience of the bulbs. How 
often the failure to grow this in the garden 
may be traced directly to late planting of the 
bulbs. Those who have had to deal with 
them know quite well that the best time to 
secure bulbs is immediately the flower stems 
have died down, whereas not a few defer 
doing so until late autumn, and then the re¬ 
sults are disastrous. This Lily is not par¬ 
ticular in regard to soil. It will flourish in a 
light, sandy loam, and I have also seen it 
doing well in common road scrapings and the 
ordinary soil of a garden, that could not well 
be described as loamy. When doing well, 
the bulbs should not he disturbed, and when 
it is absolutely necessary to divide them this 
may often be done by removing one or two 
that have a way of pushing out of the ground. 

-WOO DBASTWICK. 

Christinas Bose in July —It may interest some 
of your readers to know that I piekpd a perfect- 
Christmas Rose this morning, July 2nd, out of my 
Harden. This is the second year that I have done the 
sune, hut- the first one was shaded preen. This one 
is white.—M arguerite V. G. Griffith. 

The Salpiglossis — I think growers of half hardy 
annuals sometimes forget the Salpiglossis. They are 
admirable when grown in masses, as in beds or 
patches in the border, and deserve to bo more largely 
known and grown. Tin* flowers are wonderfully 
marked, and one ran now secure from a mixed 
packet of seed a variety of shades. They like a dry 
border, or. at any rate, one where they will have the 
full advantage of sun; and those who can give them 
such an aspect with good loamy soil may count on a 
brilliant display. They are also nice for cutting.— 
LF.AHI RST. 

Feeding Clematises —Much may be done for 
Clematises out-of-doors just now, particularly the 
Jackmanl varieties, by feeding them in a judicious 
manner. By this 1 mean giving them, say. twice n 
week, liquid-manure, made from sheep or horse- 
droppings or some of the concentrated manures as 
advertised. There is a difference to be seen in plants 
neglected in this respect and those which have had 
stimulants administered to them. I do not think, as 
a rule, that much trouble is bestowed in training 
out the shoots of Clematises, but I have noticed that 
where this has been done the growth has been more 
robust, and this has been followed by finer blossoms. 
—Townsman. 

Annual climbers in pots. -One may learn a 
deal from the seasons. Last year in July we had a 
difficulty in coping with the watering of many of our 
favourite plants, and we learnt that not a few sub¬ 
jects we had intended to grow in pots as climbers 
were anything but satisfactory by reason of the 
drought. This year, however, the reverse is the 
case. The continued rain has caused many plants 
in ttie ground to make much wood and little bloom. 

1 may mention, as a case in point, Tropteolums— 
plants that, with an mrestrirted root room, in a 
season when much moisture is prevalent, to use a 
common expression, “ romp away.” Where, however, 
they have been grown in pots, they have commenced 
to show flowers. Especially is this so in window - 
boxes, proving, I think, that it is an advantage to 
grow a few annual climbers in pots. - WoopBvSTWicK. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


284 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Jcly 27, 1907 


ROOM AND WINDOW. 


BOUQUET OF WILD FLOWERS. 
Now, when Helds, meadows, and lane® teem 
with beautiful flowers, there is no need to 
confins ourselves to gardens for a supply of 
cut flowers for our vases or for making bou¬ 
quets. There are numbers of wild flowers 
in hedgerows that, might be gathered and 
arranged tastefully in vases so as to give 
variety to the floral decorations of the dinner 
table, for instance. If garden flowers are 
used day after day for such purposes, they 
are apt, through too much familiarity, to lose 
their charm, but by varying them during 
spring and summer with wild flowers—such, 
for example, ns wild Roses, Campanulas, 
Irises, Ox-eye Daisies, and the like—we have 
always something fresh presented to us. 

A few r elegant Grasses from the meadow, 
combined with a selection, at any season, of 
flowering branchlets from the shrubbery or 
common garden border, and a free handed 
and tasteful grouping, without crowding, and 
with a well-balanced proportion of natural 
foliuge, may lie made to form a composition, 
such as a painter might desire to transfer to 
his canvas, while he assuredly could never 
wish to dip brush in colour for one of the 
expensive bouquets of the “Cauliflower” 
type. Ruch has long been a favourite theory 
of mine in the matter of flower grouping ; 
and the other day I found it gracefully 
exemplified on the drawing room table of a 
friend, by a graceful half-wild bouquet from 
field and garden, formed with the free grace 
and uncrowded arrangement which, as nearly 
as may be, illustrated my views. In the ar 
rangement, each flower and Grass of the 
gathering had been mode to find its seem¬ 
ingly proper place, unjostled by its neigh¬ 
bour, and so freely and easily located in its 
basket work receptacle, supported on three 
slender canes of Bamboo, thut even the foli¬ 
age had room to display its graces and modes 
of growth. G. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Sprays of Cypsophlla for winter. The 

white panicles of Gypsophila paniculata are 
valuable for winter decoration, but, unless 
they are cut at the right time, they are of 
little service. It is useless to allow them to 
fully expand, and then permit them to re 
main ou the plants, and, when the dark 
seeds begin to show, to cut them, because 
they will certainly fall to pieces in the dry¬ 
ing. Sprays to be of service for winter de¬ 
coration should be gathered just before they 
are fully open, as then they will not drop or 
shed any of their petals. Few adjuncts to a 
vase of flowers look prettier than this 
favourite subject, and few' things serve us liet 
ter ill n bunch of dried flowers for winter, if 
gathered at the right time.—F. W. D. 

Window-boxes In autumn. -Sometimes 
when window-boxes are planted in May the 
occupants are long past their best when Sep 
tember comes, and to ensure a continuance 
of blossoms it is advisable to prepare for such 
an emergency. Often the mere scraps and 
east offs from seed-beds and striking-pit, if 
given special attention and grown on, make 
capital subjects for blooming in the later 
days of the summer and autumn, and among 
such I instance Fuchsias, Heliotropes, Pelar¬ 
goniums -especially the Ivy-leaved sorts— 
Mimuluses, and Verbenas. I have seen late- 
sown Zinnias, too backward to put out-of- 
doors at bedding-time, grown on in a frame 
mid then utilised in a window-box later on. 
Small plnnts of the early-flowering Chrysan¬ 
themums nre invaluable, and should be 
lotted on with a view to being placed in the 
mxes when near blooming, whilst Asters 
treated in a similar manner will give a little 
brightness to a window for several w«*eks in 
the autumn. — Lkahukst. 

A desirable hardy foliage plant (Tlialirtnun 
mliuntifuliuim.-This plant, not unfrequently rullrd 
tlie “hardy Maiih-n-hair Fern,** is a perennial easy 
‘'f growth in almost any garden, and where foliage 
i« wanted for cutting in any quantity of a kind suit- 
ahle for table decoration, should not he overlooked. 
It h surprising how few people know anything about 
it. jet. 1 venture to say. when once it is grown and 
it* value for rutting unden»top*L it will 
In the garden. Woodbastw nib* _ 

»= CjCK 



VEGETABLES. 

LARGE PODDED PEAS. 
Probably the finest and, at once, hand¬ 
somest pods of Peas yet seen were those of 
“Quite Content,” a very odd name, exhibited 
at the recent Holland Park show, by Messrs. 
Jos. Carter and Co. But, as these pods were 
carefully covered with glass shades, no op¬ 
portunity to test fulness or numbers of Peas 
in the pods was afforded. Then© fine pods 
were from 0 inches to 7 inches in lenglli, mid 
it may be assumed that the vendors, in giving 
the variety its odd name, regarded the puds us 
quite large enough. 1 think so. too. Still, it 
is not certain whether these pods nre, after 
all, so large, though, probably, better filled, 


been for many years intercrossing varieties, 
and the results are remarkable. Even this 
year the products of last year’s crosses are 
seen, and from some have come wonderful 
pods, and, to all appearance, great croppers. 

Peas are, however, notoriously uncertain 
until after several years’ growth to test their 
adherence to character. In first early dwarfs 
the variety is remarkable, and, conjoined 
to wonderful early cropping now is edible 
quality of the highest. During the past 
thirty years quite a revolution in early Peas 
has resulted. But there are of main croppers 
numerous varieties now dial not only carry 
fine pods but have in gardens high reputation 
as croppers. Such varieties us Duke of 
Albany, of a good stock; Alderman, Cen¬ 
tenary, Gladstone, Exhibition Marrow, and 



An arrangement of wild flowers and Grosses. 


than were these of the huge Superlative, put 
into commerce many years ago by the late 
Thomas Laxton. Those pods were, indeed, 
veritable windbags, and the variety, a worth¬ 
less one, soon died out. But now we have 
another Superlative—a very different Pea in¬ 
deed. This is one of Messrs. Sutton and 
Sons* seedlings. I saw it, a fine row from 
3 foot to 3.J feet in height, in the gardens of 
University College, Reading. It is a grent 
cropper, pods long, green, well Filled, mid 
Peas of excellent flavour. If this variety does 
as well universally ns it was doing when 
seen, it is one of the finest Peas in commerce 
for cropping mid for exhibition. It is also 
an early variety. Messrs. Sutton and Hons’ 
own Pea trial is of great extent, and seem* 
to include every known variety; even some 
obtained from Palestine. But the firm have 


some others give pods which, relative to the 
ordinary or average size of pods, seem to l>e 
very fine, nnd nre amply large for all garden 
or exhibition purposes. When it lias become 
the rule in relation to vegetable exhibits to 
look much Jess for size and far more for 
average or table dimensions, very large Pea- 
pods may !x» regarded ns n weak feature rather 
than a strong one. Exhibitors cannot too 
well understand that for their purpose rich 
green, handsome, well-bloomed pods, having 
in them green Peas closely sot, and not old. 
maggot I v, or large, are those most liked hy 
judges. A. D. 


Too many sorts of Broccoli. The recent 
note on tin* abnvej^q v«rry| finch to the point, 
all hough it might have been more serviceable 
earlyl ffij fho Bcason, before ^eods were 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 






























July 27. 1907 


GARDENING ILL UEXEAT ED. 


285 


ordered, especially to young gardeners who 
are a bit bewildered to know what to order 
now that all seedsmen fill up their pages 
with scores of varieties in nearly all different 
vegetables. This is, perhaps, particularly 
noticeable in Peas and Potatoes, and al¬ 
though I do not say the list is applicable to 
all soils, I mention four of each that are 
hard to beat, and that I have grown for the 
last two j’ears. In Potatoes I put May 
Queen, Early Puritan, Epicure, and Up to 
Date. The third on the list takes the place 
of Windsor Castle, which I grew for many 
years, but which for one or two seasons 
failed lamentably in cropping qualities. Epi¬ 
cure is first class in quality, and a grand 
cropper. So far as Peas are concerned, 1 
really depend on three varieties (with the ex¬ 
ception of a trial of two or three new mid- 
season sorts), and these are Little Marvel, 
Daisy, and Autocrat. E. Burrell. 


THE USES OP LIME. I. 

The practice of liming or chalking the soil is 
one of the oldest and most widely-spread 
operations of British agriculture; unfortu 
nately, for many districts, it is a custom that 
is less observed at the present time than 
>robably at any other period since farming 
>ecame an organised industry. Until about 
forty years ago lime was much more exten¬ 
sively used in agricultural practice than it is 
to-day. How is it that the practice of liming 
lias fallen so much into disuse? It may be 
said that, in the main, it is due to (1) in¬ 
creased cost of labour; (2) the increased use 
of artificial manures ; (3) the reduction in the 
value of corn crops. Several common 
manures contain lime, but a clear distinction 
must be drawn between free lime, as it exists 
in quicklime or slaked lime, and the same 
combined with an acid, as in bones, where 
it is combined with phosphoric acid, or in 
gypsum, where it is combined with sulphuric 
acid. What is necessary for the soil is not so 
much the chemical substance lime, but a base 
— i.e.f something capable of combining with 
the acids produced natural^ or artificially in 
the soil. In quicklime or in slaked lime this 
base i« found, and nothing else. Chalk and 
all natural limestones contain lime combined 
with carbonic acid, which, however, is 60 
weak an acid that it is easily turned out and 
docs not interfere with the basic properties of 
the lime, whereas in bones or gypsum the lime 
is already completely saturated with strong 
acids, and in superphosphate there is even 
an excess of acid, which demands more lime 
from the soil to neutralise it. Quicklime and 
slaked lime, when applied to the soil, quickly 
go back to the state of carbonate of lime or 
chaLk in which they existed before they were 
“burnt” in the kiln, hence it is really this 
substance, carbonate of lime, that we denote 
when we speak of “lime” in the soil. The 
superiority of burnt lime over chalk or lime¬ 
stone for application to the soil lies simply 
in the fact that it falls naturally into a fine- 
state of division, some of it also passing into 
solution, so that it is more easily dissemi¬ 
nated throughout the soil and acts with 
greater rapidity and in smaller quantities. 
But. to return to the point in question, only 
freshly burnt (quick) or slaked lime, chalk, 
limestone, marl, and basic slag contain 
‘Time” in the farmer’s sense—i.c., in the 
form of a base capable of neutralising acids ; 
in bones, in superphosphate, and in gypsum 
the lime is combined with acids, and is no 
longer capable of acting as a base. 

Tiib USES OF lime. Besides its indirect 
value in neutralising acids in the soil, lime 
lias several other uses, all of which are of 
importance to the farmer. These uses may 
be given as follows:—(1) Lime improves the 
nature of the soil by coagulating the finest 
particles of clay and rendering the land more 
open and friable. Thus drainage goes on 
more readily, the land is warmer, and it is 
more easily worked to a good tilth. It is 
difficult to exaggerate the value of this action 
of lime on the heavier soils ; it is frequently 

f iossible to secure a seed bed when the un 
imed land is still too wet to work, and the 
character of the crop may depend as much 
upon securing a good tilth as upon manuring. 
(2) Lime is nn essentifirplant food alul with¬ 
out it soils cannot produedg^ >d crajilNoils 


are generally considered to be deficient in 
lime when they contain less than from .5 to 
1 per cent. Home soils, however, which are 
provided with a considerable amount of 
organic matter may respond to lime, al¬ 
though they contain much more than these 
amounts. (3) The insoluble reserves of nitro¬ 
genous and potassic material in the 6oil are 
brought into action and rendered available 
for the plant by the presence of lime. The 
following table shows the result of applying 
in January, 1903, 2,000 lb. per acre of ground 
quicklime to some of the Grass plots nt Roth- 
amsted, where there was a good deal of resi¬ 
due. from past manuring, locked up in the 
soil: 


1 

Plot 7. 

Plot 9. 

v 

\ ear. 

Yield with mineral 

Yield with complete 

manures only. 

artificial manure?. 


Unlitned. 

Limed. 

Unlimed. 1 

Limed. 


Cwt. 

Cwt. 

Cwt. 

Cwt. 

1003 .. 

19.5 

61.9 

60.1 

60.5 

19 1 .. 

61.9 

61.8 

63.7 

69. S 

1905 .. 

41.3 

47.2 

36.9 

62.8 

1906 .. 

1 31.4 

41.4 

30.0 

50 0 


(4) The leguminous crops usually cultivated 
ou the farm flourish better when a good sup¬ 
ply of lime is present in the soil. Clover, in 
particular, is very intolerant of acid soil con¬ 
ditions, and is much more subject to Clover ! 
sickness when lime is deficient. (5) It seems 
to be established that the soiL organism 
(Azotohacter), which fixes nitrogen without 
the aid of leguminous plants, and is, prob¬ 
ably, a great factor in the gain of fertility 
when land is laid down to Grass, cannot de¬ 
velop properly unless a good supply of car¬ 
bonate of lime is present. (6) Lime in one 
form or another is the best remedy for finger- 
and toe disease in Turnips and Swedes. 
These root crops are always liable to the 
disease when the soil is deficient in lime. The 
fertility of many farms to-day is, un¬ 
doubtedly, due to the liming anil chalking 
that was done by the farmers of the eigh¬ 
teenth and earlier centuries; they, indeed, 
made the soil, for it is through their labours 
that it remains in profitable cultivation at the 
present, time. Owing to the very large 
amounts of chalk and lime which were then 
applied, it lias been possible for later genera¬ 
tions to live upon the capital thus accumu¬ 
lated and dispense with any expenditure of 
their own in this direction. Bub this spend¬ 
ing process cannot continue indefinitely, for 
natural causes alone—the percolating rain¬ 
water-are steadily removing the lime in the 
surface soil; for example, the Rothamstcd 
soil, which, at the beginning of the nineteenth 
century, must have contained something like 
a hundred tons of chalk per acre, has now 
less than fifty, and many other soils which 
started with a smaller initial stock are be¬ 
ginning to run dangerously short. In many 
parts of the country there is evidence that 
the land, especially on the heavier soils, is in 
need of liming, and, though it might not be 
wise to return to the old, heavy dressings of 
6 tons to 10 tone to the acre, a much smaller 
quantity—half a ton or so per acre—could be 
profitably applied at least once in the course 
of each rotation. 

The influence of manures on lime in 
the ROIL. —The various classes of manures 
used in farming have some bearing upon the 
rate at which lime is washed out. and this 
question has been investigated at Rot ham 
sted. The results of the investigations may 
be given briefly, as follows: —(1) Superphos¬ 
phate, sulphate of potash, kainit, and kindred 
manures do not increase the loss to any ap¬ 
preciable extent. (2) Farmyard manure and, 
probably, all organic manures, diminish the 
loss of carbonate of lime. (3) Nitrate of soda 
also diminishes the loss. (4) Sulphate of am¬ 
monia increases the loss, removing about half 
its own weight of lime or nearly its own 
weight of chalk. Lime sinks in the soil of 
Grass Land from purely mechanical reasons ; 
in arable land this sinking is less marked, but 
the lime is subject to a greater wastage by 
solution in the rain-water percolating through 
the soil .—Leaflet (No. 170) of the Board of 
A griculture. 

NOTES AND BE PLIES. 

Rhubarb from seed. —I am trying to raise n 
plantation of Rhubarb for market. The foot? are ex¬ 


pensive in this neighbourhood, so I have been trying 
to grow from seed, which seems to germinate and 
come up fairly well, but after it is above ground 
the seedlings seem to get blighted and cut off by 
some minute insect. I-have tried soot and liine, but 
without much effect. Have you or any of your 
readers any experience of this trouble? I find that, 
last year's seedlings many of them are throwing up 
a multitude of small stems, instead of three or four 
good thick ones. Is there any remedy for this? Will 
they have to be thrown out?—A n Irish Reader. 

[Your experience with Rhubarb seedlings 
is very unusual, a6 Rhubarb usually grows 
freely when so raised. It is not possible to 
6ay what cause may be operating to keep 
your seedlings eo poor in growth, but evi¬ 
dently the cause must be a local one—pos¬ 
sibly in the soil, perhaps in the air. Gener¬ 
ally such seedlings grow strongly. Dressing 
the leaves with any insecticide to kill insect 
jx'sls oil them is difficult, because the in¬ 
sects attach themselves to the undersides nf 
the leaves. You would find it a tedious job, 
no doubt, to wash every leaf ou its under¬ 
side with a solution of Tobacco mid Quassia 
chips. Seedling Rhnbnrlm come very varied, 
anil the stems would not be so marketable as 
would lx? those of all one variety, especially 
one having good colour, and early. If you 
could get a few roots of Daw’s Champion or 
Crimson Perfection to start with, you would 
do wisely.] 

Black spots on Tomato leaves 1 would l>c 
much obliged if you would kindly say what is the 
reason of these Tomato-leaves having black spots on 
them? The lower part of the plants (in large pots) is 
turning rather yellow, and these black spots are 
on the leaves. I think my gardener is not giving 
them enough rich food.—E. P. G. 

[We can find no disease whatever on the 
Tomato leaves. Their appearance is indica¬ 
tive of age only, the lowermost leaves of 
Tomatoes often becoming discoloured in this 
way. In the absence of particulars, vve are 
unable to give an opinion as to whether the 
plants are receiving a sufficiency of stimu¬ 
lants or not, but can safely say that it is not 
through a paucity of plant food that the 
leaves are in this condition.] 

Tomatoes failing.— Enclosed you will find speci¬ 
mens of Tomatoes that have gone wrong with me. 
They did well till lately, and I cannot in any way 
account for the failure. They are planted in the 
open border for second season, were manured with 
good farmyard manure and bone-meal, and have been 
occasionally fed with Tomato-manure of a good 
quality. A fungus attacks the leaves, then they die. 
back to the stem of the plant, and if not taken off 
they affect the stem. It also attacks the fruits, us 
you will see, and they drop off.— Tomato. 

[A careful inspection of the stems, leaves, 
and fruit inclines us to the belief that your 
Tomato-plants have been attacked by a 
disease closely allied to the Potato disease, 
but more virulent in its character, the scien¬ 
tific name of which is Cladosporium fulvuni. 
This disease is more liable to attack Tomato- 
plants which are gross-habited and in a soft, 
sappy condition than when the stems are 
more woody and the foliage less robust, but 
of a firmer character. We are, therefore, 
afraid that It is to overfeeding that the attack 
in your case is due, and the ungeuiul weather 
conditions have also served, no doubt, to 
aggravate the evil. We regret being unable 
to hold out but slight hopes of your saving 
the plants and crop, but you may try the 
effect of spraying them with Bordeaux mix 
t-ure first, and if it arrests the disease, fol 
low it up for a week or two. If, on the con¬ 
trary, it has no appreciable effect, pull them 
up and burn them, cleaning the soil also in 
which they have been growing, and do not 
attempt Tomato culture on the same site for 
the next two or three years to come. We 
may also add, in conclusion, that we fail to 
understand why some people entertain tho 
idea that Tomatoes require to be fed much 
on the same principle as animals are pre¬ 
pared for cattle shows. Plants set out in soil 
of a poor description, comparatively speaking, 
always make close-jointed, firm wood. They 
are also more fertile, and set better crops 
of fruit than do plants of luxuriant growth, 
and then, when a good crop is secured, they 
quickly respond when fed liberally either with 
artificial or liquid manures. Plants grown 
on these lines are also less susceptible to 
disease than those of a grosser habit, and it 
is far better to adopt this system of culture 
than to run the risk of having to combat 
disease, and, perhaps, loss of crop into the 
barguin.] 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 






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UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



July 27, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


2S7 


August 2nd .—Planted a lot of late Broc¬ 
coli after Strawberries. These like firm 
ground. The old Strawberry plauts were 
chopped off a little under the surface and 
burned, the ashes being spread over the 
ground and the surface hoed over. Drills 
were then drawn 3 feet apart, and the Broc¬ 
coli, which had been previously pricked off, 
to get strong, was planted with a crow-bar 
and watered in with liquid-manure. All 
straggling plants in flower-beds are kept 
pegged down. 

August Srd .—The conservatory is n’ow 
bright with Begonias. Fuchsias, Tuberoses, 
scarlet. Botivardias, Carnations, Hydrangeas, 
Balsams, Zonal Pelargoniums, and a few 
things from the stove. Climbers also are 
now a special feature. Ivy-leaved Pelar¬ 
goniums planted out and in baskets are very 
bright and effective. Heliotropes planted out 
are also sweet. Pinched, for the last time. 
Salvias and Eupatoriums planted out. These 
will be potted up in Septemlier. 


BOOKS. 


THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE. * 


1 have perused with pleasure this well 
printed. freeLy illustrated book, as it opens 
up a most, interesting phase of gardening 
that should be known to all amateurs, at 
least. By no means least among the many 
perplexities of the amateur gardener is the 
temperature of his greenhouse 1 during times of 
severe frost, and it. often happens that loss 
and disappointment ensue by reason of fires 
neglected, or because the fire did not last so 
long as might have been expected. Those 
who have suffered in the past from these or 
similar causes will be? pleased to learn that 
it is possible to possess a greenhouse and to 
fill that greenhouse with an infinite variety 
of flowering plants which require no artificial 
heat of any kind. Such a house is not an 
absolute novelty by any means, and in the 
past has been referred to as the “cold- 
house,” “hardy plant house,” “alpine- 
house.” etc. The author of the “Unhealed 
Greenhouse ” does not entirely dispense with 
artificial heat, however, and. apparently, is 
occasionally at variance with the title of his 
book. This is obvious in the opening re¬ 
marks of Chapter IV. Firstly, we are told 
“that shelter, not coddling, is the aim and 
end of the unheated greenhouse.” A little 
lower down, a minimum temperature of 
35 degs. Fahr. is fixed “as the lowest tem 
perature at which frost, can safely be kept at 
bay.” This is not ciuite consistent with the 
statement “that shelter is the aim.” At no 
time in the history of gardening was there 
ever such a wealth of early-flowering hardy 
plants as now—plants flowering from January 
onwards, perfectly hardy subjects, too, yet 
because of their very early flowering requir¬ 
ing just that shelter with which the chapter 
opens, so that their welcome blossoms may 
present themselves unimpaired. That this 
phase of the subject is not lost sight of we 
note with much pleasure in Chapter VI., 
which deals at some length with the alpine- 
house at Kew, where, from January in each 
year, may be found a choice lot of plants 
flowering wdthout artificial heat of any kind. 

The chapters devoted to “Lilies” and 
“Flowering Shrubs” merit careful perusal, 
and to those who would engage in glass¬ 
house gardening without the aid of artificial 
heat we strongly recommend the cultivation 
of choice bulbs and alpines for winter and 
spring, to be followed by an equally choice 
lot of Lilies in the same house for summer 
and early autumn flowering. 

Chapter XII., on “Some Hard-wooded 
Plants,” is, to our thinking, outside the 
scope of “The Unheated Greenhouse,” as 
it is not possible to keep such plants in good 
health in a temperature less than 40 clegs., 
and better if 45 degs. In saying this we 
have in mind such genera as Correa, Epacris, 
Hovea, Pimelea, Leschenaultia, etc., all of 
which are mentioned in the book. We are 
not now' contesting the point whether these 
plants can be kept alive in a much lower 


“The Unheated Oreenhouse^'iiy K. L. David 
Published by “Country Life,"/Ltd.,/Tavis^x 
Corent Garden, W.O. vl_J V_/ 


temperature; that is another matter. Apart 
from tliis, however, the amateur desirous of 
gardening under gloss, minus artificial heat, 
will find abundant material for his purpose 
in the score of chapters of which the book is 
composed. Much space is also devoted at 
the end of the book to selections of plants 
suited to various purposes, with their time of 
flowering and general requirements. These 
lists will be found of much service. The book 
has a good index. 

E. II. J. 


BEES. 

USEFUL HINTS. 

In the increase of colonics by natural swarm 
ing, much depends upon locality, the state 
of the weather, and the conditions under 
which the bees were wintered. Where hives 
arc well filled with bees in autumn, in addi¬ 
tion to being well provisioned, they are ready 
to throw off a swarm sonic weeks sooner 
than those left weakly in population and 
short of stores. In the spring, when a hive 
has become very crowded, and stores are 
coming in plentifully, the queen commences 
to lay eggs in drone-cells, while the workers 
construct queen cells. In the latter, eggs 
arc deposited about four days before a swarm 
issues. In frame hive*, the queen cells may 
be easily discovered if the central combs are 
examined, and search made along their edges. 
The queen cells very much resemble an acorn 
in shape. Should one or more be found to 
be capped over, it may be concluded that, 
weather permitting, a swarm will shortly 
issue from the hive. The chief indications 
of swarming nro the crowding of the bees at 
the entrance of the hive, general restlessness, 
and the appearance of drones on the wing. 
Swarming may take place at any moment 
between the hours of ten and four on a 
bright, warm day. In the act of swarming, 
the bees pour out of the hive in a constant 
stream, and all is apparently wild confusion. 
They, however, soon begin to collect on one 
spot—generally some bush or tree near at 
hand—where they gather in a cluster, which 
quickly increases in size as it is joined by 
the rest of the swarm. Hives and all neces¬ 
sary appliances should be in readiness, that 
no time may be lost after the swarm has 
clustered, despatch in hiving being all im¬ 
portant, as the longer it is delayed the more 
difficult are the bees to handle. The swarm 
becomes so dense and compact that a slight 
shake of the twig upon which it is hung will 
cause every, or nearly every, bee to drop 
into the inverted skep held below to receive 
them. What few may remain behind Boon 
rejoin their friends in the skep, which is now 
placed upon the ground for a short time, with 
a stone under its edge to admit outsiders, be¬ 
fore being placed on its permanent stand. If 
the bees are to be put into a frame hive, they 
arc shaken out of the hiving skep upon the 
tops of the frames, or upon a cloth spread in 
front of the frame hive. 

The hiving of a swarm of bees is not such a 
difficult operation as may appear to the un¬ 
initiated. With the protection of a veil for 
the face, and thick woollen gloves on the 
hands, with the addition of ordinary cool¬ 
ness and confidence, it becomes a very simple 
matter. Bees do not use their stings except 
in self defence, and, as a rule, are in the 
best of tempers at swarming-time, from the 
fact that each individual has gorged itself 
with honey before leaving with the swarm, 
and is therefore quite indisposed to do any¬ 
thing more than to join in forming a cluster 
around the queen upon the nearest suitable 
twig or bush. In manipulating the bees, 
examining the interior of the hive, and so 
forth, a bellows-smoker is most useful, as a 
few puffs of smoke from smouldering brown 
paper, rags, or decayed wood injected into 
the hive render the bees harmless. The 
smoke is used, not to stupefy them, but to 
cause alarm in the hive, the effect being that 
the bees fill themselves with honey from the 
combs, and, with their honcy-sacs full, they 
rarely sting unless hurt. Bees afford much 
more interest if kept in frame hives than 
they do if housed in straw skeps, for, al¬ 
though they will work in almost any kind of 
receptacle they may be placed jn at tur arm¬ 


ing-time, they succeed better in such hives as 
can bo adjusted to their requirements from 
time to time. In the bar-frame or mov¬ 
able comb hive, complete control is ob¬ 
tained over the bees, sectional boxes can bo 
placed over the tops of the combs for the 
reception of the surplus honey, bees and 
combs can easily be interchanged from one 
hive to another, swarming can be controlled 
in great measure, while the honey can be 
extracted from the combs during the honey 
season, and the combB returned to the hive 
to be refilled by the bees. A frame hive that 
is to be occupied by a swarm should, if pos¬ 
sible, be furnished with clean empty combs. 
The advantage of this is that it enables the 
queen to commence laying without loss nf 
time; otherwise, sheets of comb foundation 
should be fixed in the frames, or strips of 
the same, from one inch to two inches wide, 
must be furnished to the underside of the 
top bars. As foundation contains sufficient 
wax in its projecting Avails to enable the 
bees to completely lengthen out the cells, 
it is only necessary for them to provide wax 
for the cappings. Thus a great, amount of 
labour and much time are saved. 

S. S. G. 


LAW AND CUSTOM. 

An overgrown tree -I shall he pint if >ou will 
Rive me ad\icc on the following: - A and B are 
owners of property adjoining one another. B has an 
Elder-tree growing beside Ins wall. 12 feet high, 
12 feet through, and 12 feet from A's window It 
blocks the light and view. (1> Can A compel R to 
cut it down? (?) If A destroys tree, what action could 
B take? (3) If the tree is detrimental to the sale of 
A's property, what action could A take against B? 
PERPLEXED. 

[Ill the first place, A is entitled to cut away 
(perpendicularly) every leaf of B's tree which 
overhangs bis (A's) ground. From the photo 
sent. it. would appear that a good portion 
overhangs. Next, it. would seem likely that 
the roots of B’s tree penetrate under A's 
ground. If so, A is entitled to cut away such 
portion of the roots as do so penetrate. These, 
however, are remarks by the way. It- seems 
to me that this, which is a trifling matter, 
ought, to be settled in a friendly way, unless 
you both want to get into expensive litiga¬ 
tion. To answer your questions seriatim : 
(1) A cannot compel B to cut the tree down ; 
but A can bring an action against B with the 
object of obtaining an injunction to prevent 
the continuance of the nuisance. In that 
case, it will be necessary for A to prove that 
he is a sufferer—and I doubt very much 
whether he will be able to do this. (2) If A 
destroys the tree B can bring an action against 
him to recover its value. (3) I do not see how 
this could be proved ; it is a purely hypo¬ 
thetical matter. Try and agree with your 
neighbour.— Barrister.] 

Ownership of bees (J. J. Lock).— The law 
upon the subject is perfectly clear. When 
bees swarm, their owner may, if he can, pur¬ 
sue and take them, even though they go off 
liis promises ; but if lie does not do so at the 
time, they become the property of any other 
person who takes the trouble to do so. It 
seems to me, therefore, that you are entitled 
to claim the bees as your own ; and, as for 
being “liable for keeping an empty hive to 
decoy bees,” that is too preposterous to 
trouble about. However, I do not suppose 
you want to be unneighbourly or dishonour¬ 
able, and, therefore, I would suggest that you 
tell your neighbour how the law stands, and 
then offer him something, without prejudice, 
so as to retain his good opinion. It may 
save f u t ii 1*0 trouble between you. Bar¬ 
rister. 


Death of Mr. 8. S. Coldsmith. We regret 
to hear of the death, at Chiltern View, Ux¬ 
bridge, on July 12th, of Mr. S. S. Goldsmith, 
who has for many years dealt with our vari¬ 
ous queries rc Birds, Bees, and Poultry. 


“The English Flower Garden and Home 
Grounds .”—New Edition, 10th, revised, trith descrip - 
tions of all the best plants, trees, and shrubs, their 
culture and arrangement, illustrated on wood. Cloth, 
medium, 8vo., 15s.; post free, 15s. 6d. 

“ The English Flower Garden ” may also be 
had finely bound in J vols ., half vellum, Vs. nett. Of 
aUbooksellerri ._ _ . . ... y»uAiinAiriil 

UnbANA-ChAMPAIGN 




288 


GARDENING ILL UST.RATED. 


July 27, 1007 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

Questions.— Queries and answers arc inserted in 
Gardening free of charge if correspondents follow these 
rules: All communications should be dearly and concisely 
written on one. side, of the. paper only, and addressed- to 
the Editor of Gardening, 17, Fur nival-street, Holborn, 
London, is’.C. Letters on business should be. sent to the 
Publisher. The name and culdrcss of the sender are 
required in addition to any designation he may desire to 
be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, 
each should b.: on a separate piece of paper, and not more 
than three queries should, be sent at a time. Correspon. 
dents should bear in mind that, as Gardening has to be 
sent to press some time in advance of date, queries cannot 
always be replied to in the issue immediately following 
the receipt of their communication. We do nut reply to 
queries by post. 

Naming fruit. —Headers who desire our help in 
naming fruit should bear in mind that several specimens 
in different stages of colour and size, of the same, kind 
greatly assist in its determination. We have received from 
several correspondents single specimens of fruits for 
naming, these in many cases being unripe and other¬ 
wise poor. The differences between varieties of fruits are 
in many cases so trifling that it is necessary that three 
specimens of each kind should be sent. We ca n undertake 
to name only four varieties at a time, and these only when 
the above directions are observed. 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

Asparagus Sprengerl (.V. H ebb).— This is easily 
raised from seed. It is one of tho easiest to crow, 
forming large fleshy roots, and requiring good-sized 
pots to grow good specimens. If you want to use 
it for cutting, then plant it out in. large boxes or iu 
brick compartments. A mixture of loam, leaf-mould, 
and silver sand will grow it well, giving plenty of 
water at the roots, and a moist, warm atmosphere. 

Rose leaves unhealthy (Scott ).—The specimens 
of Rose-leaves you send nave been very severely 
attacked by thrips arid red-spider. Syringe the plants 
well with the extract from 6 ounces of Quassia chips, 
4 ounces of soft-soap, and £ pound of flowers of sul¬ 
phur well mixed and added to 5 gallons of water, 
or 2 ounces or a ounces of Gishurst compound in a 
gallon of water. The plants are evidently very dry 
at the roots, and a good soaking of water with a 
heavy mulch of rotten manure would be very bene¬ 
ficial. We are assuming that the Roses are growing 
against a wall, in which case the probable dryness 
at the roots is a sure cause of the two pests we 
have alluded to. Your Vine-leaves are very poor and 
have evidently been scalded through neglect to admit 
air sufficiently early in the morning before the sun 
has come out. 

Plants under Fir-trees (€. L.).- If we may 
assume that the trees are more or less in small 
groups or in isolated examples and not in the nature 
of a small plantation, then you may plant, freely of 
Lilium candidum, L. tigrinum, L. umbellatum, L. 
croccum, Ornitliogalums, Scilla eampanulata. Wood 
Anemones, Daffodils, Spanish Irises, Lenten Roses, 
London Pride, Foxgloves from seeds, Evening Prim¬ 
rose, Solomon's Seal, Lythrum, Asperuhi odorata, 
Achillea Millefolium. Snapdragons, and Wallflowers. 
These are more decidedly perennial in dry places near 
trees than when planted in rich border soils. Rose 
of Sharon, Saxifrnga cordifolia purpurea, Zauschneria 
culifornica, Arabis single and double, Aubrietias, 
Alyssum saxatile. Candytuft annual or perennial, 
Cornflowers, Iceland and other Poppies, Flag Irises, 
Campanula pumila, and the like would also answer iu 
such a position. 

Rosa sinica Anemone on a wall (Kirk).— 
You will have seen the note concerning this Rose in 
Gardening of June 29th. Probably, someone has 
found that the blossoms, being single, last much 
longer when the plants are grown against a north 
wall—in the same manner that some Rose-growers 
so plant Tea Roses in order to obtain blooms for the 
later exhibitions. The charming single Rose alluded 
to grows anywhere. It is equally at home clambering 
over an old tree-stump as it is against the pillar of 
ail arch or gateway, or, if need be, it will grow as a 
free bush, its long, arching growths spreading out to 
the right and left in a free and easy manner, each 
growth being smothered in bloom. I have found the 
Rose grow admirably when budded upon the do la 
Grifferaie stock. Its general habit is semi-climbing. 
It is not rampant like Gloire de Dijon, but would 
grow somewhat as a Penzance Brier. I certainly 
think that you would find R. sinica Anemone a good 
Rose for your noitli wall, and the glistening foliage 
would be beautiful all the summer. Should you pre¬ 
fer to try a rather freer grower, plant Flora, Aimle 
Vibert, or Mmc. Alfred Carriers. 


Climbing plants for fernery (Fern-lover).— Of 
the plants corn * ruing which you inquire, Clematis 
smilacifolia will not suit your purpose, Spoindra coc- 
einea wc do not know. Tcconia jusminoides is the 
same as bignonia jusminoides. Of the others. Clema¬ 
tis indivisa lobnta is a beautiful climber, with white, 
starry blossoms borne in great profusion in the 
spring. Jasminum grandiflorum, somewhat after the 
manner of the common Jasmjnc, has larger flowers 
borne in late summer and autumn; Jasminum odora- 
tissimum has yellow flowers spring and summer. 
These three we can recommend, and also the follow¬ 
ing : Fuchsias, the more vigorous kinds of which 
form delightful climbers; Habrothamnus aurantia- 
cus, yellow flowers, borne in summer and autumn; 
Habrothamnus elegans. red, nearly throughout the 
year; Lantana salvirefolia, known also as Lantana 
delicatissima, deep lilac flowers, the greater part of 
the year; Lonicera sempervirens minor, a trumpet 
Honeysuckle, whose flowers, red and yellow' in colour, 
are produced throughout, the summer; Mandevilla 
suaveolens, large, white Convolvulus-like blooms 


summer; Manettia bicolor, small 
flowers, scarlet tipp^TvyelJow- 
gakgifoHa, rosy 
bek in summer. 


pirple Ledy’iaj 


tubular-shaped 
summfr; Swainsonia 
at their 


Shading exhibition Roses (F. M .).—Shading is 
very essential for Tea Roses. The shades should be 
so placed that wind cannot move them or the buds I 
beneath them. Many flue buds have been ruined by 
rubbing against a shoot or leaf. When quite dry tlie ; 
expanding buds should he wrapped round with thin 
paper to keep the outer petals from being injured 
and to shield the bloom from wind. The top, of 
course, is left open. The paper must on no account 
be put tightly round the bloom, but care must be 
taken that there is no friction. Earwigs are often 
found in these retreats. The papers should, there¬ 
fore, be now and then examined. After rain it is a 
good plan to go over the beds and remove the shades 
that have been placed over the blooms, but they 
must be replaced before night. These shades not 
only ward off heavy storms, but they prevent injury 
from heavy dew, to which the delicate petals of 
Tea Roses are very susceptible. Dwarf Tea Roses 
should have litter of some sort placed on the ground 
to keep blooms clean. The day before the show, or 
probably two days before, the blooms should he gone | 
over when dry and tied. This is done with soft 
wool. On no account tie too tightly. Allowance must 
be made for expansion. The ties are slackened a 
little if necessary, hut blooms should be kept tied till 
the last moment in order to preserve the centre. 

TREES AND SHRUBS. 

The Rocky Mountain Bramble (Ruhus dcli- 
einsiis) (Edward Mitchell).- This is quite unlike all 
ordinary Bramble having no spikes or prickles. It 
makes a rounded spreading bush, about 4 feet high, 
and in June bears snowwhite flowers, eacli about the 
size of a Dog Rose and like them iu form. It is quite 
hardy ill most gardens where the soil is light, and in 
cold districts such as yours should be grown against 
a wall, which it will soon cover, flowering more 
freely than when grown as u bush. It should always, 
when planted as a bush, have the sunniest and 
warmest place in the garden. See the article on 
and illustration of Pyrus Halliana, a double form of 
P. Malus floribunda, iu our issue of July 6th, p. 235. 

Raising the Tulip-tree from seed (C. Reed). 
—The seeds should be sown as soon as they are ripe, 
for they do not retain their vitality long. As you 
have only Beven seeds we should advise you to sow 
them in a pot. Take a clean pot, 6 inches in diameter, 
and place about 2 inches of broken crocks in the 
bottom. Then fill to within an inch of the rim with 
good loamy soil,lightened by the admixture of a little 
leaf-mould and sand. On this place the eeeds at 
about equal distances apart, giving each one a slight 
pressure with the forefinger to force it a little way 
into the soil. Then cover with alxiut one third of 
an inch of the same compost and place in a frame. 
No artificial heat will be needed, lienee a Cucumber- 
frame is likely to be too warm. Seed sown now may 
germinate this autumn; but most likely the young 
plants will not make their appearance till next 
spring. Then, when a few inches high, you may put 
them into pots or plant them outside, taking care 
that in either case they are not allowed to suffer from 
want of water. Mice are fond of the seeds, there- < 
fore, these pests must be guarded against. 

FRUIT. 

Peach-lcaf unhealthy (S’. II S.). — \ believe the 
Peach-leaf you sent is attacked by the leaf-curl 
fungus in a very early state, or it is possible it may 
have been infested with aphides, but I could find no 
signs of the latter. Examine the undersides of the 
leaves carefully, and if in the hollows of the red 
patches you find aphides you may consider that they 
are the culprits. Tf not that, leaf-curl is the cause, 
and you should treat the trees accordingly.—G. 8. 8. 

Pears cracked (L. S. 13.).—Your Pears have been 
attacked by a fungus (Cladosporium dendritieum), 
which causes the skin to crack. The roots have got 
down into a poor subsoil, and require lifting. In 
October you ought to take out a trench round the 
tree, at about 3 feet from the stem, grubbing under 
with a chisel and cutting off all the roots that go 
straight down. Then refill the trench with fresh soil. 
Remove several inches of the top soil over the roots, 
and replace with some fresh loam and manure. After 
this has been done you should syringe the tree with 
tiie caustic alkali solution. 


jar in the permanent jar. From time to time yon 
can add a little Lavender-water or any other per¬ 
fume. If the covers are removed for an hour at a 
time twice a day your rooms will be filled with a 
sweet odour. 

Puddling a pond (J. C .).—In the first place, you 
must make the oottoin of the pond quite firm with 
hard ramming before vou attempt to put dojvn any 
clay. Before and while using the rammer you must 
remove all stones that are anywhere near the sur 
face, and if the soil is at all dry give it a soaking 
of water the last thing at night, and well ram it 
again in the morning. After this a depth of 4 inches 
of clay may be spread over the bottom and well 
rammed, so a3 to beat it into a united mass, finishing 
with a smooth surface. After this another layer of 
clay 6 inches thick must be laid down. This time the 
clay must be specially prepared by divesting it of all 
small stones and other hard lumps, then get a large 
flag-stone or some other solid substance to act as a 
platform on which to work up the clay. With all 
the materials in readiness and a bucket of water 
close at hand, the clay must be worked up on the 
platform in convenient lumps, the same way as a 
baker kneads his bread, until the mass is moistened 
through and worked into a proper condition to unite 
with that nfteady laid down. After being beaten 
with a wooden mallet and the surface made smooth, 
there is no doubt that it will hold water, and last 
for a number of years. As the work is completed 
the surface must be prevented from cracking by being 
kept damp until the water is let into the pond, and 
that should be-directly the puddling is finished. 


SHORT REPLIES. 

Rockery ], The Wistaria is evidently in a very 
had condition at the roots, judging from the leaves 
you send. 2, Dtic to the cold and unseasonable 
weather we have bad lately. 3, See replies to 
“A. P." and “Tent Lodge,” re “Rose leaves curl¬ 
ing,’’ in our issue of July 13th, p. 260, and to H. K. 
Gwyer, re “ Roses with green centres,” in the same 
issue and on the same page. Kindly read our rules us 
to writing on one side of the paper only and putting 
queries on separate pieces of paper.- Gerald.— With¬ 

out seeing the place it is very difficult to advise you. 
You should ask some gardening friend in your neigh¬ 
bourhood to look at it and advise you what is best 
to be done.- G. II. S.— You are quite right.-Vol¬ 

taire.—We think you will find that mice are the cul¬ 
prits, and if not trapped they do a great deal of 

damage, as we have often seen.- Vitis.— Your 

Grapes are what is known as “scalded.” 8ee article 

in our issue of June 1st, p. 173.- V. S.— Yes, if you 

persevere pulling the shoots off you may, in the end, 
destroy the plants. 3, Alpine Strawberries are best 
raised from seed, but you can also raise from runners. 
See article on “Strawberries,” in our issue or 

June 15th, p. 195.- H. M. Lerett Prinsep.— The Pink 

you inquire about is cither Ascot Pink with carmine 
centre or Paddington Pink with red centre, flower 
fringed. ——J. Hood.— Your Begonias have been at¬ 
tacked by thrips. See reply to " Roseneath,” in our 
issue of June Gtli, p. 241.- Constant Reader. — Dis¬ 

solve 3 lb. iu a tub holding 10 gallons of water, and 
then water with it once a week. When sending 
queries, please read our rules ns to sending name and 
address.— S.— By far the best way is to grub the 
tree-stumps up, or, if you do not care to do this, then 

plant some free-growing Ivy over them.- Kandy.— 

See article, “ Advice to beginners in Bee-keeping,” 
in our issue of September 9th, 1905, p. 309, a copy of 
which can be had from the publisher,, post free, 
for ljd.— brackens.— 1 , Kindly send further parti- 
, culars about your Fig-trees. 2, Yes, you can cut 
the Veronica back, well mulching and watering 
- if the weather is dry. It will, in all probability, 
start well from the bottom. You ought to cut it 
down in April so ns to give a long season of growth. 
Treat the Jasmine in the same way. You will, of 
course, have to sacrifice a season’s bloom in both 

cases.- G. W. />.—See article on “ Making new 

Strawberry plantations,” in our issue of July 13th, 

p. 248.- R. S. W . Willesdcn. —Your Sweet Peas are 

excellent, the self colours especially clear. 


VEGETABLES. 

Kolil Rabi or Turnip rooted Cabbage (Mrs 

A. Campbell i. —The bulbs of Kohl Rabi. if used when 
about as large as a medium-sized Turnip, make a 
fine substitute for that vegetable in a season when, 
through fly or drought. Turnips fail. Kohl Rabi 
never fails in a dry season, aud is never attacked by 
insects. When too large, Kohl Rabi is tough and 
hitter. It will grow in any soil, provided it is in 
good heart. Sow at any time from the middle of 
April to midsummer in drills 18 inches apart, and 
thin the seedlings to 9 inches apart. If you want to 
save the seedlings, they may be transplanted else¬ 
where. We fear you will not bo able to grow the 
Aubergine in this country. We have never seen it 
well grown, even under glass. 

MISCELLANEOUS. 

Makinff pot-oourri (Mary, .4da A. Perry, and 
E. Harris ).—Gather the Rose petals early in the 
morning and put them in a cool place for an hour to 
dry. Toss them lightly, and then place them in 
layers, with salt freely sprinkled between, in a large 
glass-covered dish. Add fresh petals to this every 
morning. When you have sufficient, let the whole 
stand for ten days, shaking well every morning. In 
the bottom of a glass fruit-jar place 2 oz. of whole 
Allspice crushed and 2 oz. of stick Cinnamon broken 
coarsely. Fill the jar with Rose petals and salt. 
Let it stand for six weeks, when It may be pre¬ 
pared for the permanent jar. Mix together 1 oz. 
each of ground Cloves, Allspice, Cinnamon, and 
Mace, 1 oz. of Orris-root shredded and bruised, and 
2 oz. of Lavender flowers. These are the proportions 
for 1 quart of Rose petals. Place this mixture in 
alternate layers with the contents of the glass fruit- 


NAMES OP PLANTS AND FRUITS. 

Names of plants Y. E Jackson.- Please send 
the plant in bloom. Tbc specimen you scud is hear¬ 
ing seed, and flowered sonic lime in April or early in 

May.- Mrs. Young. — May be a white Weicela. but it 

is somewhat difficult to name with any certainty from 

the dried-up specimen you send us.- Chas. Jones — 

1, Muscari comosum monst rosum ; 2, Crueianell* stylo- 

sa.- Miss Holt.—A rather deep-eoloured form of 

C. persicifolia.— F. O. IV.-1, Antliurium Schrrzeria- 
mini; 2, Cclsia eretica: 3, Frnncoa appendiculata.— 
H\ II. Lomas.— Specimen insufficient.— bucks. — 1, 
Krigeron speciosus; 2. Please send iu flower; 3, The 

Woody Nightshade (Solatium Dulcamara).- Nnricr. 

— 1, Chrysanthemum coronarium var.: 2, Philadelphia 

coronarius.-A'. II. H'.. Norfolk. —A good form of 

Erigeron alpinus ; 2. Digitalis lutea.- Miss Johns. — 

We think it is a malformation due evidently to some- 
insect agency. You should watch the plant and see if 
the curious formation of the flower-head is constant. 

- All T.— Diplacus glutinosus.- L. S.— The Whorl- 

flower (Morina longifolin).- J. S. M .—Cannot name 

without flowers.-IV. 11. Hoad.— 1, Cyrtomium fal- 

catum; 2. Funkia Sieboldi variegata. 


Catalogues received — Jas. Douglas, Edenside, 
Great Bookham. Surrey .—List oj Carnations, Daffodils 

for Autumn, 1907, and Spring. I'JOS. -Inmans and 

Co., Royal Rustic Works, Stretford, Manchester.— 
List of Rustic Summer Houses. 

Book received. — ” A Simple Method of Book-keep¬ 
ing for Farmers, Market Gardener?, and Dairymen,” 
by H. W. Kersey, 8outh Eastern Agricultural College, 
Wye, Kent- 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


No. 1,482.—Voi. XXIX. 


Founded by W. Robinson, Author of "The English Flower Garden." 


AUGUST 3, 1907. 


INDEX. 


Antirrhinums .. 291 

Ants, a plague of .. 302 
Apple-trees, American 
blight on .. .. 292 

Azalea mollis grown in 
pots .. 294 

Begonia Gloire de Lor¬ 
raine. increasing .. 303 
Borders, sloping.. .. 297 

Bulbs, early .. .. '94 

t'arduona, blanching .. 302 
Oanolhuses .. 291 

Cherry Amber Heart or 
Kentish Bigarrcau .. 299 
Cherry Archduke .. 2911 
Chicory, blanching .. 302 
Chrysanthemums .. 292 
Chrysanthemums sea¬ 
sonable notes .. .. 292 

Conetlowers(Hudbeckia) 298 
Conservatory .. .. 300 

Cucumbers, winter .. 289 
Currant bushes, aphides 
on .. .. .. .. 302 


Currants, Black, increas¬ 
ing .302 

Dimorphotheca Eck- 

loni .297 

Earwigs, a plague of . 292 
Epidendrum prismato- 

carpum.293 

Ferns .293 

Ferns, British, as town 

plants.293 

Ferns in forecourt gar¬ 
dens .293 

Ferns under glass .. 300 
Flowers for harvest fes¬ 
tivals .298 

Flowers, night-sccnled 298 

Fruit .299 

Fruit garden .. .. 300 

Garden diary, extracts 

from a.300 

Garden pests anil 

friends.292 

Garden work .. 300 

Grapes, diseased .. 303 


Gooseberry - mildew, 
American, the spread 
of the, in England .. 292 
Greens, planting winter 29) 
Hollyhocks diseased .. 292 
Hydrangeas .. 302 

Indoor plants .. . 214 

Law and custom .. 301 
Lilies iu the house .. 300 
Lime, the uses of—II... 289 
Marguerites, aphides 

on.302 

Oranges, Mock, the 

smaller.291 

Orchids.293 

Outdoor garden .. .. 300 

Outdoor plant ! .. .. 297 

Poa Superlative,. .. 21*0 
Pea World's Record .. 290 
Peaches, early .. .. 299 

Pears cracking .. .. 299 

Peas iu paraffin, soak¬ 
ing .290 

Peas, Sweet, loo many 298 ' 


Peas, tall .. .. .239 

Pelargoniums, Zonal, 
failure of .. .. 294 

Plane-leaves, diseased.. 291 
Plants and flowers .. 292 
Plants, hardy, mixed 
borders of . - 293 

Plum-trees, silver leaf 

in.292 

Plum-trees unhealthy .. 292 
Potato Express .. .. 289 

Potato Ninetyfold .. 290 

Potatoes, planting, on 
dirty ground .. .. 290 

Poultry.301 

Primus Amygdalin ma 
crocarpa .. .. 291 

Rose Apolhcker G. 

Hofer.295 

Rose, Banksiuii, prun¬ 
ing a .30J 

Rose Crimson Ram¬ 
bler failing .. .. 296 

Rose failing .. .. 303 


Rose La<ly Battersea .. 

295 

Rose Mme. Hoate 

'.'96 

Rose-plant dying 

296 

Rose, red, failing to 


open . 

296 

Rose unhealthy .. 

302 

Rose Xavier Oil ho 

296 

Roses 

293 

Roses for pillars., 

392 

Roses in Belgian gar- 


den 

296 

Roses iu water, striking 

302 

Roses, iron versus wood 


as support 8 for Ram- 


bier . 

296 

Roses, new, at the Bo- 


tauie Gardens.. 

295 

Roses, pruning Ram- 


blcr . 

296 

Royal Horticultural So- 


ciely . 


Saxifruga cochlcaris .. 

298 

Snapdragons 

298 

Stove . 

393 


Spleen wort, the Maiden¬ 
hair (Aaplenium Tri 
chomanes) .. 294 

Thorns, scarlet, by the 

sea .291 

Tomatoes unhealthy ., 290 
Tree-Pieonies from seed 298 
Trees and shrubs .. 291 
Vegetable garden .. 300 

Vegetables .. .. 289 

Verbenas: growing them 

hardy.298 

Veronica Hulkcana .. 291 
Vines, treatment of ., 299 
Violets, growing.. .. 297 

Wallflowers, transplant¬ 
ing .293 

Weed in pond .. . 303 

Week's work, the 

coming.300 

Whorl flower (Morina 
longifolia), the .. 298 
Zinnias : the effect of 
bad weather .. .. 293 


VEGETABLES. 


TALI, PICAS. 

I have of lute iii many cottage gardens, and 
on allotments, been seeing numerous rows of 
Peas, and have, indeed, wondered at the 
great height to which this season many have 
grown, and still more greatly wondered that 
anyone, especially a cottager, should grow 
them. The rage to have the biggest podding 
varieties perhaps accounts for this growing 
of tall Peas, but when, as 1 have frequently 
seen, haulm without a pod 4 feet from the 
ground. I have realised that to get these 
big pods there has been great waste of 
growth, seeing that there are so many sturdy 
3-feet to 4-feet Peas that will crop heavily 
from 15 inches up to the tops. I had two 
Peas in striking contrast the other day in a 
garden at West Clandon—one, reputedly the 
biggest podder in commerce, then 7 feet in 
height, and not a full or finished pod on the 
row ; the other, a 3.'-feet Pea, carrying a 
heavy crop of veiy finely-filled green pods. ; 
That this variety would give, if shelled, fully 
twice as many Peas as the very tall one, I am 
certain. I do not admit that the judges at 
shows are responsible for this rage for big 
pods. The produce of each pod, when opened, 
the colour of the Peas, the colour of pods, 
and their freshness and bloom, have far more 
importance with judges than has mere size. 
It is a matter for regret that such size, at the 
expense of other and more important attri¬ 
butes. should tints he encouraged. 

Whilst ill the garden, and apart from the 
exhibition table, the primary considerations 
with gardeners, so far as Peas are concerned, 
are found in earliness, abundance of pods, a 
succession of gatherings, excellence of flavour 
and colour, it, is evident that size has no 
value. Very likely the low temperature and 
abundant rains in the early summer greatly 
helped to create height of haulm, that Would 
not be so evident during ordinary seasons. 
But iu drier seasons, unless the ground be 
very deeply worked, and heavily manured, a 
decent crop and fair growth on tall Peas can 
hardly be obtained. I have also noted this 
season not merely heavy crops on Long-pod 
Beans, but whilst pods have been very long, 
too, vet the Beaus iu them have been un 
usually closely set, so that they touch each 
other. That fact evidences a great advance, 
as when first the very long podded forms of 
the Seville type were introduced, the Beans in 
the pods were commonly their own length 
from one another. A. D. 


Potato Express. - Having tried many Pota¬ 
toes, I consider this is the earliest of any kind 
I know. I was induced to try it. and pur¬ 
chased a peck. About the first week in April 
a portion was planted with another early kind 
from home-grown seed. These were given a 
position at the foot of a^1 to a stove-house. 
Express grew rapidly, afd was very tail. .The 
other, an Aghlea.f, wasVthfcAd/ comteifetLtQ 


this, and. to my astonishment, when I came 
to lift both kinds the tubers of Express were 
more than double the size and more numer¬ 
ous. The other portion was planted iu the 
open garden beside four other kinds that I 
have grown for years. Here, again, the tops 
were very tall, having large, broad foliage. 1 
commenced digging from these early in July, 
and the tubers gave three times the output 
of the other kinds, and would have returned 
more than double the price iu market. When 
I dug the first lot, I was doubtful as to 
quality. I tried them with other Ashlcaf 
kinds, and they were equally dry. Several 
growers recommended it to me as an improve¬ 
ment on Sharpe’s Victor, which it certainly 
is. This latter, when first sent out, was a 
much heavier cropper than it is now.— 
Dorset. 


WINTER CUCUMBERS. 

Too Late Planting a Mistake. 

In many gardens Cucumbers arc wanted al¬ 
most all through the year. Few things are 
influenced so much as these by light, hence 
those having to grow’ them through the winter 
are glad to see the days turn. I regard late 
planting of these for autumn use as a mis¬ 
take. Nothing is more detrimental to their 
well-being than to hurry young plants, as by 
so doing a weak constitution is set up, end¬ 
ing in failure in the winter. This arises from 
cropping these when they have comparatively 
few roots and the growth weak. In the’seven¬ 
ties, when serving in a large garden where 
Cucumbers were in daily demand, the custom 
was to allow each plant to carry only one 
fruit at a time during the last six weeks of 
the old year and the first six weeks in the 
new year. Weak plants were not fruited at 
all. 1 have found it by far the best method 
to sow about the middle of July, bringing the 
plants on slowly till large enough to plant 
out. When this is done, do not keep them 
moist and warm, so long as they are growing 
vigorously. As the days shorten, gradually 
increase the heat, still using every effort to 
maintain a hardy, vigorous constitution by 
abundance of air and light, removing the 
fruit as long as possible, or till it is needed. 
Another error many make is pinching the 
grow ths too closely. I prefer not to stop any 
shoots during the short days, and have found 
groat advantage by so doing. Many aro apt 
to use too heavy soil for winter Cucumbers. 
Far better have it on the light side, as heavier 
soil can b? added as the days lengthen. The 
light soil can be assisted by feeding either 
with artificial manure or liquid-manure. It 
is astonishing how far into the winter old 
plants that have been cropping through the 
summer will fruit, if given a slight rest, thin¬ 
ning out all old xvood. giving a top-dressing in 
September, and treating well afterwards. One 
gardener I served under in Norfolk used to 
adopt this method to give Cucumbers for the 
last and first, months in th) year—and this 
with the very best results, 

J. Crook. 


THE USES OF LIME.- -II. 

The clashes of lime.— In nature, lime 
generally occurs as carbonate of lime, in the 
form of chalk, limestone, marble, marl, and 
other substances. Perhaps one sixth part of 
the rocks composing the earth’s crust consists 
of this material. Those materials containing 
lime which are of any agricultural importance 
may be tabulated as follows : - 

(1) Bases, capable of neutralising acids. 
Quicklime, burnt lime, lime-shell, caustic 
lime — lime. Slaked lime = lime and water. 
Chalk, limestone, marl, old mortar, etc., 
= lime and carbonic acid. Basic slag — 
lime and phosphoric acid (lime in excess). 

(2) Neutral salts, in which the lime is al¬ 
ready neutralised by a strong acid. Com¬ 
pounds of this class occur in : Gypsum — 
lime and sulphuric acid. Bonce and mineral 
phosphates ^ lime and phosphorio acid. 

(3) Acid salts, which contain more acid than 
the lime can neutralise. Compounds of this 
class occur in:—Superphosphate and dis¬ 
solved bones : lime and phosphoric acid (phos¬ 
phoric acid in excess). 

Quicklime and slaked lime. —The most com¬ 
mon form in which lime is purchased by far¬ 
mers is that known as burnt lime, lime-shells, 
quicklime, or caustic lime. It is obtained by 
burning either chalk or limestone in a lime¬ 
kiln. Quicklime greedily absorbs and com¬ 
bines with water, forming slaked lime, while 
it also readily takes up carbonic acid gas 
from the atmosphere, forming carbonate of 
lime, which is similar in composition to pure 
chalk or limestone. For this reason quick¬ 
lime should be exposed as little as possible to 
rain and to the atmosphere, but should lx? 
applied to the land without delay. Where 
coal is cheap, the price of good lime at the 
lime-kiln averages, perhaps, 9s. per ton. A 
guarantee should be obtained that it contains 
not less than 85 per cent. # of quicklime, and 
not more than 4 per cent, of magnesia. 

(lround lime. This consists of burnt lime 
(quicklime) which has been ground to a fine 
powder. It should Ixj similar in quality to 
quicklime, but is often impure, and contains 
less lime than ordinary quicklime. Ground 
lime is more expensive than lime-shells, owing 
to the cost of grinding, which may amount to 
Cv». per ton, while an additional 3s. must Is*, 
added for sacks. A good sample, therefore, 
may cast about 18s. a ton at the lime-kiln. 

Chalk. This substance is really a soft 
Limestone, and when the flints are removed is 
usually a very pure form of ciu Imitate of 
lime. When fairly pure it will contain about 
half its weight of lime. 

Marls.— These are mixtures of earthy mat¬ 
ter and carbonate of lime, but their con¬ 
sideration is beyond the scops of this leaflet. 

Gypsum. —This compound of sulphuric acid 
and lime is seldom employed as a separate 
manure, but it forms about two fifths of the 
weight of ordinary superphosphate. 

Gas lime. —This form of lime is a by-pro¬ 
duct in the manufacture of coal gas, for which 
lime is employed as a purifying agent. It 
consist? of slaked lime more or less saturated 






























290 


GJ RUNNING il l ustratad. 


August 3 , 1907 


with compounds of sulphur; it is liable to 
considerable variation in composition, and 
often it has but little basic property left in 
it, and so cannot take the plate of lime or 
chalk. It contains small proportions of cer¬ 
tain compounds of sulphur which arc viru¬ 
lent plant poisons, this fact necessitating 
great care in its use. It is unprofitable to 
use it at considerable distances from a town, 
or where high Tailwav rates prevail, as the 
percentage of lime present is usually small. 

Basic slag. Basic slag is a by-product in 
the manufacture of steel, and is very largely 
employed ae a phosphatic manure. It usually 
contains about 4f> per cent, of lime, and from 
one-third to one half of this is, probably, in 
the caustic form. Half a ton of basic slag 
may, therefore, supply as much lime as is 
contained in from 2 to 4 cwt. of ground lime. 

The application of lime. The most 
common method of liming is to put quick¬ 
lime on the land in small heaps and allow it 
to slake naturally, or to slake it with water 
from a water-cart. It may then be spread 
with a shovel and harrowed in at once. Lime- 
shells may also be 6laked, as is clone by a 
mason’s labourer, reducing them to a fine 
powder. They are spread in layers a foot 
deep, one above the other, each layer receiv¬ 
ing about G cwt. of water per ton of lime, «»r 
rather less water if the lime is inferior. The 
heap is then covered with about half a ton 
of sand for each ton of lime. The lime in 
such a heap will keep for a considerable 
time. Before using, the heap may be screened 
through a g-inch gauge locking screen. Lime 
thus slaked should be in a fine powdery con¬ 
dition, and the sand mixed with it renders the 
spreading a somewhat less dusty process. 
Lime, when overslaked, becomes pasty, after 
which even distribution in the soil is impos¬ 
sible. The lime may be carted to the land 
and distributed by hand direct from the 
carts, a process which must be thoroughly 
done. It is much better, however, when 
small quantities are being applied, to adopt' 
the American plan— i.e., to use a suitable 
manure distributor, to which old bagging | 
should l>e attached at the sides and behind. I 
This trails along the ground, insures bettei 
distribution, and prevents much of the dis¬ 
comfort that is otherwise caused by the blow¬ 
ing about of the fine lime. Glasses for the 
eyes and protective devices for the nostrils 
and mouth are also used by men who do this 
work. Since lime is used for many purposes, 
the proper quantity to apply varies widely. 
Common dressings-are from 2 tons to 3 tons of 
lime shells nt intervals of from six to ten 
years. Smaller dressings of about 1 ton per 
acre once in four or five years are now be¬ 
coming common. Considerably larger quanti¬ 
ties than the above may be used in the treat¬ 
ment of newly reclaimed land rich in organic 
matter and plant food. 

Ground lime. —This is usually applied by 
means of a manure distributor at the rate of 
from 5 to 30 cwt. per acre. 

Gas lime. - Owing to the presence of certain 
poisonous compounds already mentioned, gas 
lime should be carefully spread on the land 
six or eight, weeks before ploughing. It is 
best applied to lea in the autumn or early 
winter, at the rate of from 2 tons to 4 tons 
per acre. On most soils the oat crop which 
follows will be considerably l>enefited. 

Cfuilk.— This material is not so easily dis¬ 
tributed as lime, and as one ton of quicklime 
w ill contain as much lime as 13 tons of chalk, 
it. is necessary to apply the latter in much 
larger quantities than the former.— Leaflet 
(.Vo. 170) of the Board of Agriculture. 


PLANTING WINTER GREENS. 

Now the earliest Potatoes, Peas, and Turnips 
are cleared, lose no time in planting these. 
Such ground ought not to require much pre¬ 
paration besides cleaning, as the foregoing 
crops should have been well provided with 
mauurial matter early in the spring, and the 
ground will be in a fit state to plant in. 
Should the hot, dry weather continue as at 
the time of writing, give the seed-bed a 
thorough soaking of water the evening previ¬ 
ous to planting, and put a five-prong fork 
under each line of_plant8 before pulling, so 
that the tap-root ip of good ^3et out 

such kinds as Bj6i \jpil jkBroccoffJfVflll varie¬ 


ties. Buda Kale, and Cabbage, 2 feet apart 
each way, making each one quite firm bv ram¬ 
ming the soil fairly close to the stem without 
bruising, and then watering. Many dip the 
roots in a puddle of soot, soil, and water be¬ 
fore planting, and it certainly is a good plan, 
especially where wireworin or caterpillars 
abound in the soil. Some object to plant 
until the rain has well soaked the ground, 
but I contend that plants set out in dry 
weather, and kept well watered, take to their 
new surroundings quite as kindly, and they 
arc not at the mercy of the slugs, which like 
wet weather and devour many a good plant. 
Another drawback to planting in very wet 
weather is, that from making the plants firm 
with the dibber the soil gets so hard around 
the stem that new roots arc* made with diffi¬ 
culty, and unable to lay bold of the soil in 
time. Especially would this he the case in 
soils inclined to bo clayey. Savoys are most 
useful, and should be planted largely, the 
Drumhead variety requiring 2 feet each way, 
while the small varieties will do with 6 inches 
or 9 inches less. Examine each plant in the 
centre, as many go blind at this time of 
year, and do even after planting, so that an 
inspection should bo made within a fortnight 
after planting. Broccoli, Cabbage, and Cauli¬ 
flower being the worst defaulters in this re¬ 
spect. If slugs prove, troublesome, dust with 
slaked lime on a few evenings towards dusk. 

East Devon. 


NOTES AND BE PLIES. 

Tomatoes unhealthy Although 1 have grown 
Tomatoes for some years, I have not., until this year, 
been troubled with any disease. I beg to submit 
specimens of the foliage for your inspection (marked 
No. 1 and No. l l), which 1 have cut from several 
plants. You will please notice that the signs of 
disease on both specimens are quite distinct in ap¬ 
pearance. Kindly say if they arise from one and the 
same cause, or are they distinct diseases? I'leasc 
state the cause and the best- remedy?— WALES. 

[We do not regard the condition of the 
leaves of your Tomato plants in any way 
alarming, as we fail to find any disease what¬ 
ever on them. The stems are in a perfectly 
normal condition, and the discolouration of 
the leaves themselves we attribute to natural 
decay. Had the leaves been infested with 
one or other of the diseases to which the 
Tomato so often falls a prey, they would have 
presented a very different appearance to 
those you send. Although we are unable to 
detect, any signs of disease, you may, perhaps, 
have an infestation, but it would be plainly 
visible, for the leaves would be attacked with 
black spots and blotches, causing them to at 
once decay. The disease is then soon com¬ 
municated to the stems, when remedies be¬ 
come of little or no avail. There is a chance 
of stemming the disease, if it is dealt with as 
soon as the first symptoms are noticed, by 
spraying the plants either with sulphide of 
potassium, at the rate of 1 oz. per three gal¬ 
lons of water, in which 4 oz. of soft soap has 
been previously dissolved, or with Bordeaux 
mixture. When once it gains a firm hold of 
the plants the best way is to puli them up 
and burn them, and the soil in which they 
have been growing also. If after carefully 
examining your plants you should find any 
to be affected in the manner described, spray 
at once, and do not give the disease time to 
spread further. If you elect to use Bordeaux 
mixture, take the precaution to cease spray¬ 
ing about a fortnight or three weeks before 
the fruits ripen, and to wipe each one with 
a damp cloth before using them, in ease there 
should be any copper sulphate adhering to 
the skins, this being poison. If, on the con¬ 
trary. you prefer the potassium sulphide, 
avoid splashing the paint on the woodwork 
of the house with it, as it will turn it black if 
you do. In either case, one spraying alone 
will not kill the disease if your Tomatoes 
have it, and it will be necessary to repeat it, 
perhaps, three or four times (according to the 
virulence of the attack), and at weekly 
intervals.] 

Pea Superlative.— By reason of a more ex¬ 
tended trial, my previously high opinion of 
this Pea has been more than upheld by its 
behaviour this season. It is, without ques¬ 
tion, one of, if not the finest, second early 
Pea I know, both as regards cropping and 
superb quality. Its dark green, robust-grow-J 
ing haulm is also a distinguishing feature of 


the variety, aud this, coupled with the fact 
that the pods, which are produced in pairs, 
and with wonderful freedom, too, are each 
from G inches to 7 inches in length, and 
about 1A inches broad. I predict a great 
future for this Pea, and intend growing it 
mor * largely still for second early supplies 
another season. Finally, both amateurs and 
cottagers will find Superlative peculiarly 
suited to their requirements, seeing that both 
quantity and first rate quality are its great 
characteristics, for, under good cultivation, 
each pod invariably contains from nine to ten 
large-sized Peas, which are of delicious 
flavour when cooked. In height the haulm 
reaches.to about 4J feet.— Kent. 

Potato Ninetyfold.— Although warmth and 
sunshine have been wanting, it is a remark¬ 
able fact that Potato Ninetyfold has yielded 
a much heavier crop than usual. I quite 
expected, when digging was first resolved 
upon, in the third week in June, to find the 
tubers small and crop deficient, but was 
agreeably surprised to find that quite the op¬ 
posite was the case. Of course, it is not a 
first rate Potato os regards quality, but if 
dug when young the flavour is passable, and. 
on account of its heavy cropping, is a good 
one to grow for early work where the house¬ 
hold consumption is large and continuous.— 
A. W. 

Soaking: Peas in paraffin. 1 had to plant 
first sdNving of Pens this year three times, 
owing to field mice, till 1 killed off many of 
the latter with traps. I had soaked some of 
the Peas in red lead and water. A neighbour 
told me to soak them twelve hours in pure 
paraffin before sowing. 1 did 60 , and not a 
Pea was touched. Strange to say, the Peas 
do not swell in paraffin as they would in 
water. T feel sure that the paraffin has some 
beneficial effect, ns well ns keeping off ver¬ 
min, for those treated with it seemed to do 
better than those without. I was told that 
pure paraffin would injure the seed. It did 
no such thing. I refer to ordinary paraffin- 
oil, as bought in shops for lamps.— North 
Kerry. 

Pea World's Record. Hitherto I have re¬ 
garded Early Giant ns lie ing the best, early 
Pea in cultivation, but must alter my opinion 
now. after having given the variety named nt 
the head of this note a trial. The two varie¬ 
ties were sown at the same time in February 
Last on a warm south border, the conditions 
in every respect being equal, yet World’s 
Record Vos ready for gathering from seven 
to eight days in advance of Early Giant. 
Another sowing made later, and in a more 
exposed position, yielded the same results. 
As regards its cropping, it is quite equal to 
Early Giant, but surpasses the latter in the 
size of the pods, which are very large for a 
first early, while the quality, when cooked, is 
all one can wish for. The haulm reaches to 
about the same height as that of Early Giant. 
This first-class early Marrowfat Pea is a cross 
between Early Giant and Harbinger, and 
combines the good qualities of both. Those 
on the look-out for a good thing in the wav 
of early Peas should give it a trial another 
season, if they have not already done so.— 
G. P. K. 

Planting Potatoes on dirty ground.— 

This year I had to use some land that, was 
full of weeds of all kinds. It was ploughed 
and got. ready for planting. A portion of 
this I planted with Polato?s that had sprouted 
during the winter—in fact, they had never 
had a shoot removed from them from the 
time they were dug. These quickly came up 
and were ready for hoeing. The other por¬ 
tion had no sprouts on them when planted, 
consequently they were three to four weeks 
longer in coming up. v By this time the 
ground w r as covered with_\yeeds, and had to 
be hoed a second time, and even then was 
not so clean as the other. This extra 
labour odds to the expense, and all having 
dirtv land should plant sprouted sets.— 
J. C. F. _ 

"The English Flower Garden and Home 
Grounds.” — New Edition, 10th, revised, icith descrip¬ 
tions of all the best plants . trees, and shrubs, their 
culture and arrangement, illustrated on wood. Clotty 
medium, 8vo., 15s .; post free, 15s. 6d. 

"The English Flower Garden” may also be 
had finely brund in i vole., half vellum, #4*. nett. Of 

/'I IK lin M/-H 



August 3, 1907 


GARDENING ILL U ST RAT ED . 


291 



TREES AND SHRUBS. 

ritUNUS AMYGDALUS MACROCARPA. 
This, a flowering branch one-half natural 
6 ize, which to-day is the subject of our illus¬ 
tration, is a strong-growing tree with larger, 
broader leaves than the common Almond (F. 
Amvgdalus). The flowers, 
too, which are rose tinted, 
are also much larger. The 
tree is hardy and vigorous, 
and there are many fine speci¬ 
mens scattered over the 
country, several being found 
in London parks, as in the 
case of the one from which 
our illustration was prepared. 

This is growing in Dulwich 
Furk. 


their beauty is improved, during the early 
part of the year, by flowering trees and 
shrubs, especially when the Thorns and 
Laburnums are in bloom. I happened to be 
there during the first week in June this year. 
At the time of my visit, the Thorns were at 
their best. Nothing could be more attractive 
I than the large, vigorous young trees, cepeci- 


CEANOTHUSES. 


These plants do not, in my 
opinion, receive the attention 
that their merits deserve, as 
they are easily grown, and 
their beautiful racemes of 
blue flowers are borne with 
great freedom. They are 
nearly hardy ; in fact, against 
an east wall at Chiswick they, 
with a slight protection, stood 
several severe winters, and 
in the summer months they 
will well repay any little 
trouble that may be taken 
with them in the winter in the 
way of protecting with mats, 

Fern, etc. There is no neces¬ 
sity to prune them until they 
grow too far away from the 
wall, in which case they may 
be, after all danger of frost is 
over, cut back close, when 
they will again break out 
afresh on all eides. 1 pre¬ 
fer, however, to leave them 
alone, thinning out only the 
small and useless wood, thus 
enabling the stronger shoots 
to produce more flowers. In 
the case of those which are 
planted out during the ruiii 
mer months, I find the best 
plan is to treat them like 
Fuchsias. Towards the end 
ol March or beginning of 
April, they may be stood in 
an open position, so as to 
thoroughly harden tlTem. 

When the time comes for 
planting out—say, the first 
week in May—they may be 
taken out of the pots ami 
planted, taking care that they 
have a good supply of water 
during the summer mouths. 

If attended to in this way, 
they will, during the months 
of August and September, 
give a rich display of flowers, 
which will continue in full 
beauty until frost cuts them 
off. On the approach of 
frost the plants may be lifted, 
cut hard hack, and again put 
into pots and placed in a posi¬ 
tion safe from frost. They 
will not require much water 
during the winter months, but 
as soon as they begin to break 
afresh they must have plenty 
of moisture. In due course 
they will he again ready to 
take their place in the flower- 
garden. They may he treated 
in this way year after year, 
and, by keeping them hard 
pruned, both at the roots and 
the tops, they will not grow to an ungainly 
size. T. 

Scarlet Thorns by the sea. Those who 
have visited Bournemouth in late spring and 
early summer no doubt have been impressed 
with the beauty obtained by the liberal plant¬ 
ing of flowering -trees and Hindis. Although 
this plac<|> is noted forfits t.'OT,|qtWl, 


Prunufl Amytfcliilus nncrocarpa. Half natural size. 


ally of Paul’s Double, which appears to Ik? 
the favourite. The single red and pink, with 
an occasional white, adorned many roadside 
gardens. Equally good were tin? Laburnums. 
In some positions the Rhododendrons were 
past their best, but those in the centre of 
the town made a fine show. One regrets more 
highly-coloured kinds were not planted.—J. 

Ckook. 


THE SMALLER MOCK ORANGES. 
The advent of the little Philadelphia micro- 
phyllus from New Mexico, nearly a genera¬ 
tion ago had far-reaching effects, for in the 
hands of the hybridist it has given birth to 
quite a distinct race, whose members are 
characterised bv their (compared with the 
old kinds) low or medium stature. The first 
of all was P. iK-moinei, named in honour of 
its raiser, and a selection therefrom, known 
ns 1*. licmoinei erectus, is still at. least, in 
my opinion one of the best. As these 
forms of Philadelphia bloom from the latter 
half of June onwards, their value is con¬ 
siderably enhanced, as at that time the buLk 
of flowering shrubs, of which we have so 
many a month earlier, is past. Members of 
the Lemoinei group of Mock Oranges push up 
slender wand-like shoots, 4 feet to 5 feet 
high, that arch over in a very graceful man¬ 
lier with the weight of blossoms. The indi¬ 
vidual flowers are small, but are borne in 
such numbers that a good specimen is, when 
at its best, quite a mass of white. One not¬ 
able feature is that the blooms of I*, miero- 
phyllus, instead of having the unpleasant 
smell of our European P. coronarius, have a 
fragrance somewhat resembling that of very 
ripe Apples, a feature which is, to a certain 
extent, transmitted to alL its progeny. There 
are now many varieties of this section, some 
with single and others with double flowers. 
One in particular, purpureo-maculatus, is 
marked with purplish-rose at the base of the 
petals towards the centre of the flower, a de¬ 
cided break away in colour, and one suggest¬ 
ing still further possibilities. The pruning 
of Philadelphia Ijenioinei should be carried 
out directly the flowers fade, when a good 
many of the obi shoots may be entirely out 
away. This will encourage the development 
of strong shoots from the base of the plant, 
which will grow away rapidly. While on this 
subject a word may well be spared P. micro- 
phyllus itself, a dense little bush, whose thin, 
wiry branches are clothed with small Box¬ 
like leaves of a pronounced glaucous tint. 
The flowers, too, are very freely borne. 


NOTES AND ItEPLIES. 

Veronica Hulkeana. This Veronica is. in 
general appearance, very different from the 
more commonly cultivated shrubby Vero¬ 
nicas, represented by V. speeiosa and its vari¬ 
ous forms, as this species assumes the char¬ 
acter of a somewhat erect growing plant, that 
branches but sparingly, though numerous 
shoots are pushed up from the base, partly 
after the fashion of a herbaceous plant. The 
flowers, which are borne in large, branching 
panicles, are of a very pleasing shade of pale 
lilac, a tint but sparingly represented among 
flowering plants. In some of the more 
favoured districts it is hardy, but around Lon¬ 
don it requires the protection of a green¬ 
house, for though it may pass two or three 
winters in a sheltered bonier, it is often 
killed during the first season. It will both 
grow' and flower well either in pots or planted 
out, and effective little specimens can be pro¬ 
duced in pots 5 inches or 0 inches in 
diameter.—X. 

Diseased Plane-leaves. -With respect to 
tin* above, which I have noted in Gardening 
in former years, I regret to say it is much 
worse this season, and present apiK j uranee« 
would seem to indicate that, more than threv- 
fourths of the leaves will fall. It would ap¬ 
pear that the cause of the trouble is fairly 
well fixed, and yet I can hardLy understand 
why many leaves should be affected and a 
few exempt; also why it should strike first 
at different places—sometimes in the stalk, 
sometimes at the base of the midrib, and, 
again, often in the texture of the leaf. Also 
it is strange that Platanus orientalis is never 
affected. I eaid earlier that three fourths of 
the leaves would fall, but a closer scrutiny 
gives a much larger percentage, and the trees 
are practically bare. So far ns very largo 
trees are concerned, I suppose if the cause is 
fairly well fixed no remedy is available.—E. 
Burrell. 


Index to Volume XXVIII. -The hmdinR covers 
(price Is. Cd. each, post free. Is. 9d.) and Index (3d., 
post free, 3*d.) for Volume XXVIIf. are now ready, 
and may he had of all newsagents, pr of the Rub- 
Usher, post free, 2s. for th- two, 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 








293 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


August 3 , 1907 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

SEASONABLE NOTES. 

THE lateness of the season is already giving 
growers in some districts cause for anxiety. 
The plants do not appear to be developing 
the long looked for buds which the grower of 
exhibit inn blooms desires to see in the early 
days of August. Not withstanding the long 
spell of dull and cool weather oT the present 
summer, the plants have not grown so freely 
n-s one might have imagined. I have seen 
many plants that have not made very long 
growths from the “ break ”-bnd that is usually 
developed in the early summer, and this fact 
oeerns to point to n later period of bud de¬ 
velopment than usual. The greatest care, 
therefore, will be necessary in dealing with 
plants of exhibition kinds during the next 
few' weeks. Although very early to retain 
buds of the Japanese kinds just now, it would 
he almost hopeless to send the plants on to 
the next run to the subsequent series of 
crown-buds, as these would develop at so late 
a period as to largely jeopardise one’s pros¬ 
pects of success. For this reason any buds 
that develop within the next ten days had 
better be retained, and this by a somewhat 
gradual process. Exception to this rule must 
be made in the case of any well-known late- 
flowering varieties, which it is just possible 
the grower may have stopped two to three 
months ago, with the object of inducing the 
plants to develop the buds within a given 
period. The buds of these late-flowering 
varieties must be retained just when they are 
ready. A few varieties that succeed remark¬ 
ably well from buds retained in the earlier 
half of August are the following:—Donald 
Mi-1, *od, Mrs. Barkley. Mrs. Henry Weeks, 
George Carpenter. J. It. Upton. Mme. It. 
Cadbury, Mine. Paolo Radaelli. W. IT. Wliite- 
liouse, Mrs. J. C. Neville. Mrs. Swinburne 
and its sport, and any variety that is generally 
recognised as late, or rather, late flowering 
in its character, should be treated in similar 
fashion. While I advocate the early re¬ 
taining of buds of the late kinds, this must 
not be done too quickly. I have seen 
growers, in their haste to retain the buds of 
their Chrysanthemums, rub out all the tender 
young shoots that surround the bud long 
before the latter had assumed anything like 
satisfactory proportions, to the detriment of 
its future well-being. Undue baste in this 
matter seriously impairs the bud. Before a 
bud is retained, it should stand out well from 
the young shoots that surround it. and the 
latter should be broken out one by one until 
the whole of the growths nre removed and 
the bud is left quite alone at the top of the 
main shoot. The gradual process of remov 
ing the young shoots is much better. It is a 
good plan to remove the young growths one 
by one on, say, alternale days ; in this way 
the actual retaining of a bud may be retarded 
to a date best calculated to serve its interests, 
and this is a distinct advantage when the 
buds are somewhat prematurely developed. 

We have found it nn excellent rule to keep 
the plants on the dry sid3 when the buds arc 
appearing, more especially when any of the 
varieties are rather later in this matter than 
is desirable. Side shoots must be rubbed out 
persistently, and as they are developing in 
the axils of the leaves quite freely at this 
period, they will need constant and increas¬ 
ing attention for some time to come. Growers 
would be astonished c-ould they appreciate the 
injurious effect of these side shoots when not 
ruhbed out in their early stages. Another 
trouble during the bud-producing period is 
that of the depredations of the earwig. Al¬ 
ready this pest has done considerable harm, 
and, unless speedily trapped, will leave its 
mark on the tender points of the shoots just 
us the buds are showing. A single night’s 
work will often spoil the most promising of 
plants. Cleanliness of the standing ground 
is one of the best means of keeping the plants 
free from this )>est. The earwig finds a ready 
means of secreting itself among the weeds and 
litter that one often finds in or around the 
summer quarters of these plants, and cracked 
posts that support tlfF>trained wit* to which 

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the stakes inserted in the pots arc secured 
often provide a safe retreat during the day for 
this pest. When night approaches they come 
from their hiding-place to eat away the ten¬ 
der points of the shoots, to the chagrin of the 
grower on the succeeding morning. For this 
reason, keep the standing ground quite clear 
of the matter indicated above, and see that 
the stout posts to which the strained wires 
are secured are either tarred or painted, to 
minimise trouble of this kind from such a 
source. Trap with Bean stalks cut into 
lengths of about 10 inched. E. G. 


GARDEN PESTS AND FRIENDS. 

* _____ 

THE SPREAD OF THE AMERICAN 
GOOSEBERRY MILDEW IN ENGLAND. 
To the Editor of Gardening Illustrated. 

Sir,—I n view of ail important stage having 
been reached in relation to the above matter, 
will you kindly allow' me space for the follow¬ 
ing remarks? Royal Assent has been given 
to the Destructive Insects and Pests Act, 
1907, and the Board of Agriculture will now 
he able, under this new law, to issue an 
Order against the American Goose be iry-mil- 
dew. I wish to point out how matters stand 
at this juncture, and especially to empha¬ 
sise the necessity for growers to co-operate 
with the Board to stamp out this new pest. 

During the past few' weeks I have visited 
affected Gooseberry plantations in Worcester¬ 
shire, Gloucestershire, and Norfolk, and, in 
many cases, I have seen the berries, leaves, 
and young shoots smothered with the white, 
powdery masses of spores of the American 
Gooseberry - mildew. Experience in this 
country lias already shown (as it has in other 
countries on the continent) that severe prun 
ing in the winter and frequent spraying dur¬ 
ing the spring and summer months do not 
eradicate the disease, and that the only cer¬ 
tain way of dealing with this pest, if we wish 
to stamp it out before it spreads through the 
country, is to grub up and burn the affected 
hushes. Already instances have occur red of 
considerable losses to growers caused by this 
new disease. In one ease a grower discovered 
the disease in his nursery, and it was not 
until lie had grubbed up and burnt the whole 
of his nursery stock, of the value of some 
£70. that the danger of the disease spreading 
to the adjacent Gooseberry plantations (of a 
large acreage) was removed. In another case 
the loss wns more serious still ; litre, in a 
plantation of some Id acres, not only had all 
the G-ooseb-'rry hushes to lx* destroyed, hut. 
as I found the mildew had spread to Red 
Currant bushes growing intermixed with the 
Gooseberries, it was necessary to grub up 
and burn these also, in order to insure the 
eradication of the disease and safeguard the 
surrounding unaffected plantations. The 
total loss in this case amounted to some 
hundreds of pounds. In a third ease, a 
nurseryman lost a considerable sum of money 
through the necessity of having to burn a 
large stock of recently imported standard 
Gooseberries affected with the disease. It is 
clear that growers are just, beginning to ex¬ 
perience the spread of a disease which, un¬ 
less resolutely stam|>cd out, will grnduallv 
invade and ruin their Gooseberry plantations, 
just as the big-bud mite has ruined Black 
Currant plantations. The disease has been 
allowed seven years’ start in Ireland and two 
or three years’ start in England. Now that 
the Board has at length acquired the neces¬ 
sary legislative powers to deal with the 
disease, it behoves all growers and gardeners 
generally to co-operate heartily with the 
Board, if they wish to see the American 
Gooseberry-mildew stamped out and their 
Gooseberry plantations kept healthy. 

Up to the present, the outbreaks that have 
occurred in England are as follows : -Kent, 
on standard Gooseberries only in one nur¬ 
sery (disease believed to he now stamped 
out); Worcestershire. 31 outbreaks in Goose¬ 
berry plantations ; fllnuresfrrshirr, l out¬ 
break ; W'inherit and district, 2 outbreaks ; 
Warwickshire. 1 outbreak. 

E. S. Salmon, F.L.S., 

Mycologist to the South-Eastern Agri¬ 
cultural College, Wye, Kent. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Hollyhocks diseased. Is there any effective way 
of dealing with Hollyhocks which are attacked on 
the leaves with a small fungus? Mine looked very 
healthy at first, have grown well, and promise plenty 
of blossom, but the leaves are suffering considerably. 
— A Beginner. 

[Your Hollyhock-leaves have no doubt been 
attacked by the Hollyhock-rust (Puccinia 
malvaeearum). Pick off all the infested 
leaves and spray the plants with Bordeaux 
mixture, seeing to it that the undersides rf 
the leaves arc also dressed with the mixture.] 

A plague of earwigs. I* there any way or pre¬ 
venting earwigs from coming into a house, or of 
trapping them when they have come in? I, in n new 
house, have a plague of them. Is this likely to con¬ 
tinue?— Engineer. 

[The only way to get rid of earwigs is to 
trap them, unless you could shut up a room 
and burn sulphur in it, which is, probably, 
not practicable. As they fly well, there is no 
means of keeping them out of the house, hut 
by closing the windows or doors. Earwigs 
may be trapped in crumpled-up sheets of 
newspaper, loosely-folded cloths, the hollow 
stems of plants, such as Bean or Sunflower- 
stalks, or small Bamboos. They are said to 
be very fond of beer and treacle. You might 
try smearing a sheet of brown paper with 
some, and then crumpling it up and pLacing 
it where the insects are. In the morning 
open the trays over a basin of boiling water 
or water that has a little paraffin oil floating 
on the top.] 

Plum trees unhealthy. -I nrn enclosing some 
leaves taken off two young Plum-trees, planted about 
March. They arc afflicted with some kind of blight. 

I should be very much obliged if you could tell me 
what the blight is, and what I had better do as a 
remedy? Should blighted leaves be cut off?— 
Dreamer. 

[The Plum-leaves are attacked by one of the 
shot-hole fungi, hut I cannot find any fruit on 
them, so as to he able to name them more 
definitely. In any cn<.se. the remedy is the 
same spray with Bordeaux mixture, collect, 
and burn all infected leaves, whether fallen 
or on the tree. Next season spray the young 
leaves with dilute Bordeaux mixture once a 
fortnight, gradually increasing the strength 
as the leaves are able to bear it.—G. S. S.] 

American blight on Apple trees 1 shall be 
glad if you can give me any advice on the following 
matter: 1 have a large orchard of fruit-trees. Last 
year I noticed ;i great deal of American blight on the 
Apple-trees, and had them, as far as possible, washed 
with paraffin, soft soap, and hot water, which ap¬ 
peared at the time to clean them nicely. Now. this 
year 1 had my man two days cleaning with a stiff 
brush and the same mixture. The trees now appear 
to be worse than ever. The blight has extended all 
over the trees, even to the young wood. It strikes 
me, if there are no means of lighting this blight, 
before long Apple-growing in this country will be a 
dead letter. Hoping you will kindly give the matter 
publicity in your paper, so that others as well ns 
myself may know the best way of treating the trees, 
as. no doubt, many la-side myself are troubled in the 
same way.-T. Edgar Mathew. 

[A friend of ours, whose trees w'ere attacked 
by American blight, after trying various mix¬ 
tures recommended as certain cures, hut 
which proved only temporary, used neat’s 
foot oil, painting the affected parts with this 
■‘neat.’’ It smothered up the pest at once. 
This was done when the trees were dormant. 
The oil, being thick, it should he slightly 
warmed, when it can he easily worked into 
all the crevices with a stiff paint-brush. There 
have been no traces of the pest since this 
cure has been tried.] 

Silver leaf in Plum-tiees -1 em lose some 
diseased shoots of Peach and Plum, grown out-of- 
doors, and should be obliged if you will say what 
the disease is, and what should be done to cure it 
or prevent its spreading to other trees? It has 
killed one Peach already, several branches dying at 
a time; and 1 tried last year to cut out all those 
on which I saw the disense, but without success.— 
T. J. 8. 

[The leaves of the Plum mid Peach-trees 
have been attacked by the disease known as 
silver leaf, which, according to some authori¬ 
ties, is caused by the attack of a fungus 
known as Steve urn hirsutum. This disease 
very often attacks Peach-trees, and we know 
of one case where several trees grown indoors 
die every year from it. Some growers say 
that the trouble is caused through over-crop¬ 
ping and absence of lime, and that it. can he 
cured if the diseased branches are out out, 
afterwards feeding well, giving perfect drain¬ 
age, using plenty of lime, and taking care not 

IWIVEKSttY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 






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UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



291 


G./1R1) fiNIJYG 1L L U ST RATED. 


August 3 . 1907 


early morn and at the close of the day, and 
that mainly during the height of the summer. 
On one side pretty patches of flowering 
plants can be had if only a little attention be 
given them, but on the opposite side flowers 
fail to do well from lack of sunshine, especi¬ 
ally so when Limes, Laburnums, Sycamores, 
anil such forecourt trees are planted. In 
such cases the Virginian Creeper can be used 
to cover the walls of the house, and a hardy 
fernery can be formed by way of filling up 
the foreground. I have seen several such, 
and they are always more satisfactory than 
anything in the way of summer flower 
gardening. 

In early spring, before the new fronds of 
the Ferns develop, I have seen Crocuses, 
Snowdrops, Scillas, and Daffodils peeping 
through the soil and unfolding their blossoms, 
with Primroses, Hepatieas, and a few early 
bloomers among perennials lending their aid. 
With summer conies a vigorous growth of the 
Ferns. Nearly all Ferns have a delicacy and 
grace of outline, a softness of form, a beauty 
of colour that commend them to all genuine 
lovers of Nature. The most successful Fern 
plantations I have seen in small forecourt 
gardens ar« those in which the Fern-bed was 
raised above the level of the ground. Stones 
can be employed with which to form the bed, 
and provision should be made for a deep 
root run by providing a bed formed of good 
fibrous loam, some well-decomposed manure, 
leaf soil, and peat. Ferns of the more robust 
hardy character are not so particular about 
soil as is generally supposed, so long as it is 
free and good, for they may be found in fair 
condition in almost any soils, from loam 
stiffening into clay and peat running inLo 
simply sand. Give them vegetable debris and 
fibrous loam and they will succeed if looked 
after in the matter of moisture. As a mat¬ 
ter of course, in laying the foundation of a 
small Fern-bed, care should be taken that 
the soil at the commencement after planting 
is not washed down into the path. In a 
short time the roots of the Ferns finding 
their wav among the soiL will bind it to¬ 
gether; till then care is necessary. 

In a small space there.is little opportunity 
for growing some of the choice kinds of hardy 
Ferns, the aim being rather to have a hold 
mass of green foliage as scon as possible. 
To this end the best kinds to plant are the 
Lady Fern (Athyrium Filix-fcemina), the Mule 
Fern (Lastrea Filix mas), Scolopcndrium 
(Hart’s-tongue), and the common prickly 
Shield Fern (Polystichum aculeatum). In 
advocating the employment of the stronger¬ 
growing hardy Ferns in forecourt gardens, 1 
have no intention of expecting such a garden 
to become a representative hardy fernery. 
More can, of course, be done in a large space 
than in a contracted one, and it is possible 
that lie who commences in a small way may 
be led on to attempt greater things, and with 
correspondingly encouraging results. 

It. R. E. 


THE MAIDEN HAIR SPLEENWORT 
(ASPLEN1UM TRICH OMANES). 

This i« one of these few Ferns which are 
found in all parts of the British Islands, 
where it grows alike on shady sides of rocks, 
on old walls, or on hedge hanks. It. is dis¬ 
tinct from any other of our native Ferns on 
account of the black colour and the beauti¬ 
fully polished stalks of its foliage, which is 
produced in great abundance, and is ex¬ 
tremely graceful. According to the situa¬ 
tion which it occupies, its light and elegant 
fronds vary from 3 inches to quite a foot in 
length ; they are of a peculiarly dark-green 
colour, and all produced from a single cen¬ 
tral crown. Although acknowledged and ac¬ 
cepted as a British Fern, it is also found, 
not only in nearly all the other European 
countries, but even in Japan, in India, and 
in North America, from all of which places 
we have on various occasions received dry 
specimens of a Fern which could not pos¬ 
sibly be any other than our common Maiden¬ 
hair Spleen wort. The shady side of a wall 
is undoubtedly the situation which it pre¬ 
fers and that in which it is most commonly 
found, but I once, in the eastern part of 
France, came across a very long and very 
high wall facing duestnuth which was liter- 

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ally covered and completely hidden by that 
pretty little species, and formed a perfectly 
dense and most beautiful carpet. Vet, al¬ 
though many hours were spent in close 
examination of those plants, I was unable 
to discover any deviation from the ordinary 
type. All the plants were alike in appear¬ 
ance and in growth, which was unusually 
long for plants exposed to the full action of 
the sun. This, however, will he readily 
understood when it is known that the wall 
on which the Fern was growing measured 
over 3 feet in thickness, and was the remains 
of fortifications, with abundance of soil at 
the back, so that, though exposed to the 
sun, a great quantity of moisture was always 
present. 

The Maiden hair Spleemvort may be propa¬ 
gated either by means of its spores, which 
are generally ripe in August, and which 
germinate freely, or, as is more commonly 
the ease, bv the division of the crowns. In 
the latter ease it is best to sclent., as far as 
possible, plants growing on a hedge-bank, as 
it is most difficult to safely remove those 
which grow amongst bricks or stones. Al¬ 
though they may he removed almost at any 
time, plants of this pretty species are more 
certain of success if the operation is per¬ 
formed during March or April. The ever¬ 
green Asplenium Triehomanes, hardy as it 
is, prefers an exposed situation to a close or 
very slmdy one, in which the continuous 
moisture, by collecting on the fronds, soon 
causes them to blacken and decay. It is 
necessary, if the plants are grown in pots, 
to have these well drained, ami also to avoid 
frequent wetting of the fronds. The soil 
best suited for this species is a mixture of 
peat, yellowish loam, and bricks broken into 
small pieces. It is particularly adapted for 
the formation, in the hardy out-of-doors 
fernery, of a neat and pleasant edging, hut in 
this case the plants should be planted l>e- 
tween stones, and their crowns kept slightly 
above the surface of the soil. The Maiden¬ 
hair Spleemvort has produced several very 
pretty and interesting varieties. 


INDOOR PLANTS. 

EARLY BULBS. 

Roman Hyacinths and other useful bulbs 
will soon be to hand. Too much importance 
cannot, in my opinion, be attached to giving 
early orders, whether extra early flowers are 
needed or not. I much prefer to have my 
bulbs in hand rather than to liave to wait for 
them, besides which too much exposure in a 
shop or warehouse is not, in my opinion, de¬ 
sirable. By securing the requisite quantity 
in good time, the potting or boxing, as the 
case may he, can at once be proceeded with 
in smaller batches rather than by putting 
larger numbers iu at once. This is a hotter 
mode of regulating the supply than by either 
having to force too much, or, on the other 
hand, to hold back ns an opposite resource. 
Wild re large numbers are required for cut¬ 
ting, and pots are short, boxes, as used for 
Celery or small bedding planks, may be used 
advantageously; in fact., I prefer them as a 
means of saving labour as well. My practice 
with Roman Hyacinths is to put about fifty 
bulbs into one of these boxes, and then place 
one in a little more warmth every few days, 
so as to have the flowers quite fresh for cut¬ 
ting. They will, in fact, flower very well in 
a close frame up to the end of October with¬ 
out any artificial heat at all. Potting or box¬ 
ing is better done every fortnight than every 
month : by this means there is no difficulty in 
regulating the supply. It is not. often, unless 
in special cases, that large numbers are 
wanted at one and the same time in private 
establishments; it is rather a succession so 
as to prevent any waste. 

Having secured the bulb:;, they should be 
kept in a cool and dry place, a fruit room 
being a very good plac *. Rather than let. the 
bulbs li • in the bags iu bulk, it is much bet¬ 
ter to spread them out in one layer only. 
My earliest will soon he in the soil, witli the 
object of having them in flower by the latter 
part of September. As soon as boxed they 
will be placed in a cool, moist place for about 
three weeks, with a very light covering of 


Cocoa-fibre. If frame room is abundant, it 
is a very good plan to use such, but the cover¬ 
ing will need to be kept moist by watering. 
These bulbs are not at all particular as to 
soil. I do not favour a rich compost; it lias 
a tendency to force leaf growth at the expense 
of the flower-spikes. A good choice is that 
which has borne a crop of Melons to which 
only a little leaf soil or spent Mushroom- 
manuro need lie added, the rougher portions 
forming the drainage in lieu of crocks, if 
Moss be short. Crocking in the usual way is 
a waste of time, Moss being infinitely better, 
affording botli food and moisture for the 
roots. The same soil will also answer for both 
Narcissi and Daffodils, as well as the first 
early Tulips. Each of these should be got 
forward without any delay, so as to obtain a 
good root action in advance of any attempt 
at top growth. Where pots nrc used, the 
same remarks apply as regards drainage and 
soil. I prefer, however, to use 6-inch pots in 
preference to smaller ones ; these will hold 
five or six bulbs of the Roman Hyacinths, 
ami others in proportion to their size, thus 
making a better display than in the smaller 
size. G. II. 


NOTES AND IiEPLIES. 

Failure of Zonal Pelargoniums. - 1 had a new 
conservatory, two years ago, opening into the drawing- 
noin, and warmed with hot water pipes. 1 depet.d 
c liefly on Pelargoniums for a supply of eolour, and got a 
good f election of young plants last year. They are kept 
in on old greenhouse till they flower, which they have 
done very well; hut the leaves turn yellow and drop olT. 
They have made no new wood this year, and with juft 
two or three leafless stems. I shall get scarcely any 
cuttings for a winter supply. Even in winter the Ivnise 
gets very hot from the south sun, though it is shaded all 
summer. There is a Cobiea growing all over the roof. 
The Pelargoniums are in 6-inch pots only. Even an Abu- 
tilon on t.he back wall is also losing its leaves, thoneli it 
continues to flower. Should the Zonals intended to flower 
in winter be kept outside now? flow can I promote their 
grow th so as to get pood healthy plants with proper foliage 
as well as flowers V —K. J. P. 

[Everything points to your conservatory 
being kept too hot and close for the plants 
contained therein, hence their ill-health. 
Zonal Pelargoniums in particular need a free 
circulation of air, and ns yours have made 
scarcely any growth, there is little doubt that 
their roots are in a very bad state. It is now 
late in the season to take them in hand in 
order to obtain good flowering plants hv the 
winter, hut it is the only tiling you can do. 
In the first place, they must be shaken abso¬ 
lutely clear of the old soil, and repotted in 
sonic good, sweet compost, such as two parts 
loam to one part of leaf-mould, and about 
half a part of sand. It is very necessary that 
the pots are quite clean and effectually 
drained, while in potting the soil should b;* 
pressed down moderately firm. The plants 
must be returned to the greenhouse in which 
you grow them, and kept moderately supplied 
with water, for especial care will l>e needed 
not to get the soil too wet until the now 
roots are active. From your description of 
the plants, wo think that when you turn them 
out and shake clear of soil for repotting, you 
will find 5-inch pots quite large enough for 
them again. You ask, Should the Zonal* 
intended to flower in winter be kept, outside 
now? Yes; if the plants are well rooted, 
and with plenty of sturdy elmots all ready to 
bloom. As yours, however, are in such a 
poor state, the only thing you can do is as 
detailed above.] 

Azalea mollis grown in pots. Tn gardens 
where large numbers of plants are needed for 
furnishing, these are most useful. For yeais 
I have grown these largely in polo, and find it 
pays to give them liberal culture at all times. 
I bring a few into a warm-house early in De¬ 
cember and by bringing them on slowly I 
get them into bloom by the first of February. 
When the plants have gone out. of bloom I 
keep them in a house away from frost and if 
more pot room is needed they are repotted or 
given a surfacing of light soil with a little 
artificial manure in it. I keep ihcm inoiot. 
endeavouring to promote all the young growth 
possible. I do not place them in the open 
till frost, has ceased, when they are given 
an open position, plunging them and allowing 
them to remain here till severe cold sets in, 
when they are placed in a cold pit. Grown 
thus, it is astonishing how quickly they re¬ 
spond to warmth. This year I had some 
plants in bfoom at tfie^ln^e'of jJauuaryv^ 1). 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




August 3. 1007 


GAUDEJWJVG ILLUST EAT ED. 



ROSES. 

ROSE LADY BATTERSEA. 

This, one of the must charming Roses in 
cultivation, is beautiful as a bud Rose, 
the long, tapering buds being of a rich cherry- 
crimson colour, often approaching the shade 
of Liberty. It is in early summer that we see 
this Rose in its most perfect form, and on 
old-established plants. Until the plants are 
established two or three years the colour is a 
pale shade, but when of the age named the 
richness of colour is very marked. So long 
are its buds that one can compare the variety 
to Gustave Regis in all save colour. It is 
not surprising that Lady Battersea is so good 


ft Rose, seeing that nne of its parents was 
Mmo. Abel Chatenay, and tin* other Liberty. 
From the former it inherits the power to pro¬ 
duce fine long and stiff stems, which render 
it most valuable for decoration. It is lovely 
when grown a standar<l or half-standard, 
and, thus grown, the buds rival those of any 
Rose for beauty. For forcing Lady Battersea 
is much appreciated not so much by the 
market-man, who requires decided colours, 
hut for private establishments, and there can 
lie no doubt that this variety is steadily gain¬ 
ing in popularity. The open flowers, as may 
be seen bv the photograph, are not veiy 
double, neither is the colour particularly 
striking then, but when the cherry-red buds 
show a delightful orange shadi 
often do, tjiey are Iovely^^* 


ROSE APOTHEKER G. HOFER. 

This is an immense flower of a semi-loose 
formation, with huge petals of a bright crim¬ 
son-rose. The flower is much too rough for 
exhibition, but in the garden there is ample 
room for such a sort. It should be a good 
town Rose, the growth being very luxuriant 
and hardy. Although I have not tried it as 
such, I should say this would make a grand 
pillar Rose. These rose-coloured Roses are 
very beautiful, although, i>erhaps, the least. | 
popular. They make a very nice break of J 
colour l>etween the rich crimson and the pale 
pinks, whites, and yellows. Perhaps for real I 
effectiveness no sort can surpass Mine. Jules 
Grolez. It is superb in colour, form, and 
habit, and, being so sweet-scented, it is a f 


Rose Lady Battersea. 


i Rose everyone should plant. Marquise do 
I Castellane is a grand old Rose of huge size, 
and fragrant. It is, too, a good autumn 
bloomer, which makes it valuable and as 
hardy as it is good. The flowers of both 
sorts are well displayed on nice stiff stems, 
so that a rich colour effect is obtained from 
a group of plants. Mrs. W. J. Grant, for 
the early part of the Rose season, is another 
valued sort. It makes a lovely bed, but is 
rather wanting in vigour; in fact, most gar¬ 
deners find it necessary to renew some of the 
plants in the beds of this Rose each year. 
| The climbing form of this Rose has been a 
' great success this season. 1 have heard of 
| one specimen standard having as many as 
I 150 blossoms out at one. time. Its growth is 
ood, and as a standard the second year it 
looms freely. In about four years huge 


heads are formed, which bear very large 
numbers of the exquisite elongated buds. 
Oscar Cordel, Helen Keller, David R. 
Williamson, Marie Croibier, Victor Verdier, 
Heinrich Schultheis, Jeannie Dickson, Mine. 
Bois, and Suzanne Marie Rodocanachi are 
other first-rate rose-coloured sorts that would 
mingle well together if it were not possible 
to plant one sort in a bed, which is prefer 
able, and for massing in large numbers 
C a moons will hold its own for some years to 
come. \V. X. 


NEW ROSES AT THE BOTANIC 
GARDENS. 

The Rose show of the National Rose Society, 
on the whole, was a satisfactory exhibition’, 
especially as regards 
quality of blossoms. One 
is always on the look-out 
at this show for novelties, 
and it is surprising the 
craving there seems to be 
for good new Roses, des¬ 
pite the fact that our col¬ 
lection is teeming with 
splendid varieties. Un¬ 
questionably the best new 
Rose shown was Lady 
Helen Vincent. This was 
awarded the gold medal 
of the society. It is a 
fine flower. 

Qiteen of Spain re¬ 
ceived, on this occasion, 
the coveted gold medal, 
and, in the opinion of 
experts, it thoroughly de¬ 
served it, although, per¬ 
haps, somewhat dull in 
colour. It is a flower 
after the style of Bessie 
Brown. 

JosKPn Lowe, a sport 
from Mrs. W. J. Grant, 
a splendid deep flower, 
something like Mme. Abel 
Chatenay, but yet dis¬ 
tinct from that superb 
sort. The blooms were 
cut from under glass, I 
believe, and it is not fair 
to judge a Rose grown 
under artificial condi¬ 
tions. It received a card 
of commendation, which 
allows of it being put up 
for a gold medal another 
year. The same Rose re¬ 
ceived an award of merit 
at the Holland House 
show' recently. 

Goldfinch is a de¬ 
cided gain in yellow 
Ramblers, the colour 
being much richer than in 
Aglaia. This, too, re¬ 
ceived a card of commen¬ 
dation. There were other 
sorts shown that are not 
in commerce, but none of 
any importance. 

William Shean will 
nrove t.o be a huge Rose, 
like a Caroline Testowt, 
but much larger—even 
l-Tger than Mildred 
Grant. It is to be 
hoped that Roses will not 
become so large as to border on the ridi¬ 
culous. Certainly they must be shown by 
themselves, or they will tend to dwarf de¬ 
lightful Roses of medium size, which, after 
all, many prefer, if they possess good form 
and colour. 

Betty was lovely, but it is very thin, al¬ 
though of an exquisite colour. It grows 
freely, and must prove a glorious garden 
Rose—something like an improved G. 
Nahonnand, if that were possible. 

Huoh Dickson has proved one of the best 
of the recent Roses, completely eclipsing 
J. B. Clark. 

C. J. Grahame is much too thin a Rose 
ever to become popular, although a grand 
colour. 

Mrs. Myles Kennedy is a promising new 
Rose, but not specially good on this occasion. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


ng, tut they 

gle 




29G 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Accrst 3, 1907 


Earl of Warwick was in several stands, 
and it will certainly prove to be a valuable 
novelty. 

Countess of Annesley is a gem, and 
Countess of Gosford exquisite in colour, 
but thin. 

Corona was superb. It is a very lasting 
flower, but it can only be termed an exhibi¬ 
tor’s Rose, the growth being too dwarf and 
stumpy for general use. 

Melanie Soupert is one of the very best, 
and has evidently come to stay. It is’like a 
Golden White Lady. 

Mmk. Constant Soupkrt will be a useful 
exhibitor’s Rose. It possesses such a splen¬ 
did form, and the colour is reminiscent of 
Comtosse de Nadaillae. 

Mrs. Theodore Roosevelt is proving a 
grand show bloom, and. although not new, it 
is comparatively little known. All who ex¬ 
hibit should possess it, as also another variety, 

Obkrhofgartn-er Terks.—T his 1ms that 
deep flower tapering to a point in sugar-loaf 
fashion, that givee it such distinct character. 

Many of the new Roses arc deficient in ful¬ 
ness. We can overlook this in a garden 
Rose, but we want more lasting novelties 
among show Roses. Of the comparatively re¬ 
cent sorts Florence Pemberton, Dean tfole, 
and Mrs. Edward Mawley were very finely 
shown, and they appeared in nearly every box. 

Rosa. 


ROSES IN BELGIAN GARDEN. 

I AM in doubt about the treatment of my Rot>o.\ and 
should like your advice about it? There arc beds of i 
Teas and of II.P.’s, dwarfs, planted in ruther heavy j 
loam. The system up to now has been to give them, I 
in October, a thick winter coat of cow-manure, and 
in the following April to dig it in, probably destroy¬ 
ing all the young, tender roots. Would the treat¬ 
ment do that Is given to my mixed borders— i.e., a 
winter coat of peat-Moss-manure (which is not so 
unsightly), and no digging at any time, the necessary 
weeding and hoeing being enough to mix the manure 
ini i* tin* ground in the course of next summer? The 
gardener will not hear of it for the Roses. His 
argument is that he must dig to air and sweeten 
the soil, my argument being that lie breaks ttie best 
little roots. The drawback of the digging method is 
also that I cannot put between the Roses any peren¬ 
nial carpeting plants, like Tiarella, Sedums, Thyme, 
Tufted Pansy, and others. Carpeting is not only 
charming in itself, but helps to keep weeds down.— 
Belgian Reader. 

[No doubt the Rosea nre much benefited by 
a winter dressing of cow-manure, but, in our 
opinion, this should be dug in as soon as 
applied, taking care not to have the soil 
deeply dug to disturb the small roots. If you 
desire good blossoms, you must give the 
plants an annual dressing of farmyard- 
manure, such as one obtains from the cow- 
yard or where pigs are kept. Of course, 
the plants may be fed in the summer time by 
the aid of liquid manure, and if this is care¬ 
fully done very excellent Roses are obtained 
without adding the autumnal dressing. We 
do not favour the application of peat Mcus- 
manure. as it contains but little real nourish¬ 
ment. It makes an excellent mulch, if ap 
plied during May, just thick enough to check 
rapid evaporation, where one has a light 
gravelly soil to deal with, but in a heavy 
loam we are in favour of leaving the surface 
soil rough. A few plants, such as Tufted 
Pansies, would make the beds interesting, 
and, if not too closely planted, they would 
cause no barm to the Roses.] 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Crimson Rambler Rose failing. Roses gencr 
ally do well in tny garden. I have a profusion of the 
Dundee Rambler and other climbing Roses, but 
Crimson Rambler I can do nothing with. Every year 
it becomes infested with black-fly, and the flowers 
come to nothing. Is the soil at fault, or do others 

find the same?—F ennel. 

[This Rose requires generous treatment nt 
the root in order to be successful with it. 
It may be your soil is poor. Such Roses as 
Dundee Rambler will flourish almost any¬ 
where. but the choicer Ramblers should have 
the soil well prepared for them. Such gross¬ 
feeding Roses as this require the soil to be 
broken up to a depth of at least 3 feet, and 
ns much m width for a single specimen. In¬ 
corporate well-decayed farmyard - manure 
with the lower soil, and a few handfuls of 
bone-meal with the upper soil. We should 
advise you to replant your specimen this 
coming autumn, if it is not too large ; if so, 
procure a new plant on its own roots, and 
plant in soil prepaid as described. If you 

Digitized by (jQOgle 


plant the old specimen, prune away a con¬ 
siderable amount of the old wood when plant¬ 
ing, but not all. Tie the growths up to a 
pillar, and allow the plant to grow as it likes 
the first year. In subsequent years remove 
as much of the old wood as you think can 
be spared, because it is from the one-year- 
old growths that the best blossoms are ob¬ 
tained. When established over twelve months, 
liquid-manure may be given, but avoid chemi¬ 
cal manures, as we find these encourage mil¬ 
dew too much. Watering with liquid manure 
made from cow manure and soot is most help¬ 
ful. This could be applied oven now to 
Ramblers that have gone out of bloom, as it 
would help the growths for another year.] 

Red Rose failing to open. I should be glad if 
you could tell me what is wrong with my Roses? 
Four standards, in u good position, have all failed to 
bloom properly. They have had a fair number of 
buds, as enclosed; but have never opened. They 
simply wither away. Two bush Roses—Frau Kurl 
Druschki—planted in the middle of the same small 
bed. have done splendidly, so it cannot be the soil. 
Not all . the leaves have withered like the enclosed, 
but some have kept quite green. Is it possible for 
the plants to do better next year, or must 1 take 
them out altogether?— A. Hargreaves. 

[There have been many complaints this sea¬ 
son regarding the failure of tne very double 
red Roses, and mainly this can be traced to 
the wot weather, and still more to the late 
spring frosts, which crippled so many buds 
when they were exceedingly small. Partly 
such a state of things is attributable to prun¬ 
ing too early, and also in not pruning euf- 
flciently hard. When good quality of blos¬ 
som is desired, the Hybrid Perpetuals should 
bo pruned severely, excepting sorts that will 
not flower freely. When wo say severely, we 
mean to within 2 inches or 3 inches from last 
year’s growth. You will not obtain such large 
numbers of growths, but they will be healthier 
than those retained a greater length. By 
thus pruning and deferring this work until 
towards the end of March, you obtain a 
sturdy, stiff growth that cannot fail to please 
and bring forth good Roses. The late prun¬ 
ing is also helpful in enabling us to escape 
the cruel spring frosts. We think if you 
prune the plants back rather hard next spring 
that you will have better success, for, as you 
say, the soil cannot be at fault.] 

Rose plant dying—I am sending you a Rose 
tree ns a specimen of several which have died 
similarly within the last month. This Rose (Mainan 
Cochet) is one of a lot of Lyons Roses, planted in 
October, HltKL The soil was thoroughly prepared 
about live years ago, dug to the depth of 4 feel- 
loam, manure, bone-meal. etc., added. The soil 
naturally is poor—sandy and heathy. The Roses have 
never made good, healthy growth, and each year 
plants have hud to be renewed, shoots dying oil. 
The Rose-beds are in open, sunny part of the garden, 
and should do well; but the want of vigour shows 
some deficiency of management. Roses in borders 
and elsewhere do not do so badly. The Roses are 
chiefly Hybrid Teas. My gardener thinks the cause 
of failure this summer is ants, the ground seemingly I 
being much infested by them. Can this be the 
cause? What remedies can bo advised? What course 
should be taken for the autumn, such as remaking 
Rose beds, etc. ?— Hatchford. 

[How your plants came to be in this condi¬ 
tion is a mystery. The present season has 
been an exceptionally good one for Roses 
planted last season and this spring, and, 
generally, they are in the best, of health. 
From the appearance of the roots, they suf¬ 
fered in transit— probably detained some¬ 
where ph rout -, and were practically ruined 
from over-exposure lie fore planting. There 
may he some deleterious substance in the soil 
that has poisoned tlie roots. We have seen 
plants similar to this one that have died owing 
to careless heeling in when received from the 
nursery. One cannot be too careful at all. 
times with the roots, and the greatest success 
follows where they are carefully watched ho 
that they do not become unduly exposed. 
We have seen Roses that have suddenly died 
in the summer whose roots on examination 
have been killed through overwatering with 
Liquid-manure made from chemicals. You 
must know how far your Roses have been 
treated as described. Perhaps the best thing 
to do would be to have the soil renewed next 
month, taking care that no chemical sub 
stance is introduced, reiving upon’ good loam 
and well decayed manure, with a little bone- 
meal. as good enough for any Roses to com¬ 
mence with.] 

Pruning Rambler Roses.— In recent years 
these kinds have increased enormously, and 
are now seen in most gardens. It sometimes 


happens these arc in a somewhat limited 
space, and the question arises when to prune 
them. I have had some for years thus placed, 
including Dundee Rambler, Felicite-Per- 
petue, and others. These are growing over 
an arch that formerly spanned a moat to the 
abbey, and, although they are thirty years 
old, they still grow' very strong, and flower 
freely. At one time I used to allow them to 
grow’ for two seasons, then, in winter, cut 
them back, and thin the old growths out. It 
occurred to me to try cutting back all the 
flowering shoots to one or two eyes, taking out 
any weak growths. This I do immediately 
the plants are out of bloom. This method has 
l>een followed now for eight or ten years, 
with the best results. Few things are more 
lovely than these free-growing Roses climb¬ 
ing up trees, poles, or over fences; in fact, 
in any position they are effective. In such 
positions they are far more beautiful than 
w'hen trained on a wall. I have recently seen 
them delightful mingled with Ivy clambering 
over an old tree.— J. Crook. 

Rose Mme. Host©.— This is one of the very 
best of the Tea Roses. In cool weather it is 
magnificent. 1 like to see this Rose early in 
the morning following a very blight, sunny 
day. The huge lemon-coloured petals, suf¬ 
fused with pink, are very beautiful. It was 
introduced by M. Guillot in 1887, but whether 
it is a sport from Anna Ollivicr or a seedling 
has never transpired. That it bears some re¬ 
lation to that excellent Rose seems evident 
from its habit and foliage ; and when one re¬ 
members that Anna Ollivier has given us as 
a sport Lady Roberts, it would not be too 
much to assume that Mme. Hoste originated 
in the same wav. As a standard it is superb, 
and it is equally fine as a bush. It is one of 
those Tea Roses that may be grown ns a free 
bush. There is no reason whatever why tall 
bushes, some 3 feet to 4 feet in height , should 
not be possible of ibis Rose; indeed, one may 
often see such bushes in good, sheltered gar¬ 
dens. In the Rose analysis for 1906, made 
by Mr. E. Mawley, this variety is found as 
[lie sixteenth among the thirty nances enu¬ 
merated of the exhibition Tea Roses, but it is 
as a garden Rose I strongly recommend it. 
For pots in either standard or bush form it is 
delightful, especially when developed under 
cool treatment. An illustration of this Rose 
was given in these pages on September ±!nd. 
1900, page 409.— Roba. 

Rose Xavier Olibo. In answer to your cor¬ 
respondent. “V. X. (>..” with regard to the 
Rose Xavier Olibo, I have at present a bush 
of this Rose which has been in its present 
position eight, years, and last March the 
tallest stem was pruned down to 5 feet. This 
same stem has a side shoot now which extends 
it to 0 feet 6 inches, anil flowered nearly all 
the way up. The rest of the hush is about 
•4 feet high. The soil is what is termed 
‘ brick making clay,” a most trying variety 
to render pliable, and even when improved 
the least sun bakes it as bard as a brick, 
though it crumbles easily enough when damp. 
This bush faces east. The hush from which 
this plant was taken as a small portion was 
always about. 5 feet, high, each year most of 
the old stems being removed down to the 
ground. C. M. W., South Norwood, Surrey. 

Iron versus wood as supports for Rambler 
Roses. This is a subject upon which there 
is evidently some doubt, and it would he 
interesting to have the experience of readers 
of Gardening Illustrate^ upon this mat¬ 
ter. for it is one of considerable impoi tancc. 
It is always a sad sight to see a fine pillar 
Rose broken down owing to the weakness of 
its support. It is quite true that many of the 
freest Ramblers, especially upon arches, will, 
in a few years’ time, hold themselves to¬ 
gether by their dense growths, hut this is not 
ho with pillars ami columns. The tripod, 
which is becoming a popular method of train¬ 
ing Ramblers, is conducive to a freer blos¬ 
soming, owing to the twining around of the 
growths instead of the upright training. In 
this case there is considerable strength in the 
three haw arrangement. Set out. an import¬ 
ant position in the Rose garden for a few- 
such tripods, and plant, upon them ever- 
blooming sorts, such as Gruss an Teplitz, 
Longvvorth Rambler, Aimee Vibert. Common 
China, Gloire des Rosomanes, Gloire de 
Hij.iii, etc. - Riiba. £]• 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




August 3, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


297 


OUTDOOR PLANT8. 

DIMORPIIOTHECA ECKLONI. 

This plant, upon its first inroduction, was 
styled the Transvaal Daisy, a title which 
confused it with Gerhcra Jamcsoni, some- 
times known by the same name, but which, 
when an English appellation is given it, 
should be called the Barberton Daisy. Both 
plant* are natives of South Africa. In the 
warmest portions of the kingdom thin Dimor¬ 
photheca may bo grown permanently in the 
open, the specimen shown in the accompany¬ 
ing illustration having been undisturbed in 
its present position for four years. A fair- 
sized bush lias a pretty effect when in full 
bloom, being covered with Marguerite-like 
flowers, each rather over 3 inches in dia¬ 
meter. When expanded, these blossoms are 
pure white, their colour forming a pleasing 
contrast to the violet-purple of the central 
disc. In these purple discs golden anthers 
appear, which increase the beauty of the 
flowers. The reverse of the petals is purple- 
blue, and when some flowers are fully ex¬ 
panded and others are in bud, the contrast 


GROWING VIOLETS. 

I WISH to grow Violets, and shall be obliged if you 
will give following information: 1, What kind of 
frame is required? 2, As to manure and making 
beds? 3, Kind of Violets to plant? 4, When must 
they be put in and how attended? I shall be glad of 
any other information.—A. H. 8. 

[Runners should be put in every year, April 
being the best month for doing this. It is 
now too late to do anything, as there is no 
time for the plants to produce flowering 
crowns. Ground for Violets must be of good 
quality, well prepared by trenching or deep 
digging, and should also receive a fairly libe¬ 
ral addition of decayed manure, and, if pos¬ 
sible, some leaf-mould. Stable-manure, or 
that which 1ms been employed for Mushroom- 
beds, is the best for heavy soil—decayed cow- 
manure suits light land. It is, however, best 
to manure and dig lip the beds in winter, so 
that frost pulverises them prior to the plant¬ 
ing of the Violets. Similar treatment is re¬ 
quired for the double as for single varieties, 
except that the latter need more space be¬ 
cause of their coarser growth. Single 
varieties of the modern kinds, such as Prin¬ 
cess of Wales, flower freely on the runners 



Dimorphotheca Eukloni. From a photograph by Mr. S. W. Fitzherbert, Kingfewear, 
South Devon. 


of colour is very pleasing. In dull weather 
the flowers remain closed, but even then a 
plant covered with countless tapering purple 
buds is by no means unattractive. The 
foliage is not unlike that of some of the 
Candytuft family, and is inclined to be fleshy. 
Although it is only in the south-west that 
this plant will survive the winter in the open 
garden, there is no reason why those who 
live in colder districts may not enjoy it as an 
open-air plant. It is easily raised from seed, 
and cuttings strike as readily as Willows, so 
that its propagation is extremely simple. 
Plants grown on sturdily for a year under 
glass, hardened off in the following spring, 
and planted out at the end of May, will be 
attractive in the border for a lengthened 
period, and may either be lifted and repotted 
in the autumn or thrown away. When grown 
in the conservatory, the plants should be 
kept clcse to the glass, or they will become 
drawn, and will then compare very unfavour¬ 
ably with specimens grown in the open. Tn 
the’ late exceptionally severe winter which 
was experienced in Devon and Cornwall, 
many plants of this Dimorphotheca in the 
open were killed; but 1 saw a few examples 
that hod survived, and wore starting into 
growth in April. 


G<S”gfe 


which issue from the parent plant, and for 
this reason can be left. The double 
varieties require the runners removed fre¬ 
quently in summer, so as to concentrate their 
strength on the crown which gives the finest 
blooms. 

Growing in frames.— These who are 
; anxious to have Violets in profusion through- 
1 out the late autumn and winter months must 
afford some kind of protection. Nothing 
answers better than cold glazed pits in a light 
airy position, anything in the shape of fire- 
! heat or a close, moist atmosphere being most 
detrimental to them. These pits or any 
frames that may be substituted ought not to 
he at a low angle, but should have a fall 
| from the back to the front of fully 18 inches, 

' plenty of light as well as air being indis- 
I pensable. Very often the plants are coddled 
j too much when first placed in pits and 
| framps. A very rich compost is not suitable, 

I this promoting the growth of leaves rather 
than flowers, while, on the other hand, 

' poverty at the roots is objectionable, the 
I flowers in this ease not being so large as de¬ 
sirable. Any common soil, and, better still, 
stones, clinkers, ashes, and such like, an¬ 
swer well for filling in the bottoms of the 
I pits, the last 0 inches or rather more being 


of a fairly fresh loam, with well-decayed 
manure to the extent of one part in four, 
and fine charred garden refuse added. This 
should be well mixed, and raised to within 
8 inches of the lights. The plants ought to 
be in a moist state at the roots when moved, 
early in October, and lifted with a moderately 
large ball of soil and roots. All straggling 
runners should be cut away, leaving only 
two or three, already rooted, probably, and 
showing flowers, close up to the old plants. 
These reserved runners or offsets, if not al¬ 
ready rooted, should be pegged down, and in 
addition to flowering freely, will he just what 
are wanted for planting out next spring. 
There must be no crowding of the plants, as, 
unless they arc kept perfectly clear of each 
other, damping off is likely to take place in 
a wholesale manner, especially if the ventila¬ 
tion is faulty. Plant them firmly and deeply, 
or sufficiently so to just bury the stems, but 
keeping the crow ns well out of the soil. Make 
all level, and if the weather is dry give a 
good watering. Not until frosts are threat¬ 
ened should the lights be put on—early, 
and, it may be, closely covering up Violets 
having a most enfeebling effect upon them. 
If the flowers do not come on quite so fast 
as desired, then may the lights be put on ; 
but on no account keep them closely shut up 
other than during frosty nights. Merely 
blocking up the lights at the back is not suffi¬ 
cient. They ought to be drawn clear off on 
fairly mild and ary days, not only during the 
autumn, but throughout the winter. . By all 
means protect them well from frosts, a good 
covering of mats and strawy litter being 
sometimes needed, but, though this is the 
case, it does not follow that Violets ought to 
be treated so much like delicate exotics, as 
they too often are. Avoid crowding and 
coddling, keep the plants uniformly moist at 
the roots, and the flowers will be abundantly 
produced till warm weather sets in. There 
is such a demand for the Neapolitan or double 
form* that they are gathered far more closely 
at times than they ought to he, the blooms 
being scarcely half expanded when picked. 
Let them attain their full size, and one 
bloom would be equal to and give more plea¬ 
sure than three half-open ones. 

Few people are able to devote much pit or 
frame room to Russian or single Violets, but 
they sometimes pay well fur protection. This 
section is even more impatient of coddling 
than the Neapolitan forms. When planted 
among fruit-trees alongside pathways, a cer¬ 
tain amount of protection is afforded by the 
branches of these, or sufficient during most 
winters. If frames and pits are not avail¬ 
able, the next best thing is to arrange the 
plants in narrow beds when they are first put 
out. Over these beds can be fixed a tem¬ 
porary framework, or, if preferred, bent roils 
can be substituted in readiness for mats 
whenever it is necessary to fix those over the 
plants. Plants thus protected from severe 
frosts yield a profusion of extra fine flowers 
with long stems, these being far superior to 
any grown on the starved plants on banks or 
other exposed positions.] 


SLOPING BORDERS. 

I believe that, if we carefully consider the 
matter, we must come to the conclusion that 
at least in the majority of instances, the arti¬ 
ficially sloping raised border is a mistake. 
Still, it must be conceded that in early spring 
a sloping border under a south wall is often 
an advantage. Where the natural contour of 
the land is sloping, the tendency of the water 
to run off the surface can, in a measure, be 
checked by keeping, as much as possible, a 
loose surface by the hoe or otherwise. Mulch¬ 
ing the surface is an excellent means to the 
same end. The same result can lie obtained 
by earthing lip, if the lines run in a direc¬ 
tion at right angles to the direction of 
the slope. Here at Southsea the land lies 
naturally almost exactly on a dead level. 
Immediately under the surface soil was, 
originally, a number of feet of brick-earth, 
resting on a bed of gravel. This brick-earth 
has been, and is being, utilised by the buil¬ 
der for making bricks. So tlie soil of the 
gardens rests directly, on the bed of gravel; 
the consequence being that, after the heaviest 
rains, no water lies on the surface on the 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



20S 


GARDENING ILL VST RAT ED. 


Aucust 3, 199? 


lowest ground, which is, during high tides, 
below sea level. The disadvantage of this 
is that, in a moderately dry summer, Roses 
and a number of other flowers are more or 
less a failure. Yet, in spite of these draw¬ 
backs. the insensate fashion largely obtains 
of raised sloping borders. L. C. K. 


ANTIRRHINUMS. 

Thohe who want a grand show of the giant 
Snapdragons for another season should sow 
at once. Examine the list of any seedsman 
who makes a specialty of hardy flowers, pick 
out named varieties in separate shades at 
2 feet high (catalogue height), and send for, 
say, ten or a dozen sorts. Have ready the re¬ 
quisite number of boxes (from which coed- 
ling plants have been taken for summer 
work), about 24 inches by 12 inches by 
4 inches, put a little rough stuff in the bot¬ 
tom, and fill in to within a quarter of an inch 
with old Cucumber or potting soil, moisten 
the surface, sow thinly, place in a cold-frame 
on a coal-ash bottom, and look out for slugs 
when the young plants make their upi>ear- 
ancc. When the seedlings are large enough 
to handle, prick them out, C inches apart, 
into a frame, with an ash bottom, in soil simi¬ 
lar to that advised for sowing. The prepara 
tion of the bed for their reception for next 
year will lie the next consideration. “Snap 
dragons will grow anywhere," one may he 
told. Yen, 1 know; but the letter you do 
the Giant forms the better results will follow. 
No rank manure is necessary, but rather stiff 
road sidings, if those are obtainable, will 
answer, using five parts of this to one of well- 
decomposed manure, well incorporated with 
the soil, will be just the thing. Plant rather 
firmly 2 feet each away anv time in Octoljer, 
reserving plants in case of casualties. The 
planting may Ik* done in separate colours or 
mixed, as the toots* may incline. A mulching 
of spent. Mushroom or jmat Moss manure is 
advisable. I said above that the Giant forms 
grow 2 feet high. This applies to the foliage, 
not. the flower-spikes, as plenty of the latter 
will reach G feet, in suitable soil. These varie¬ 
ties are so sturdy and robust that they hardly 
require staking, except in exposed situations. 
It is advisable to cut out the central flower- 
spike when wed-pods are forming at the 
bottom half of its length, and to sacrifice the 
top flowers; a profusion of smaller spikes 
will then quickly develop, and give a grand 
display, although tlie individual blooms will be 
hardly so fine. E. Burrell. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Flowers for harvest festivals.— A demand 
is often made upon those who have gardens 
for contributions towards harvest festivals, 
and as one who, nt. one time or another, has 
made such a request, and as often supplied 
flowers for the purpose, n note as to what 
may lie grown may not he inopportune in 
view of the approaching autumn. White 
flowers are much in evidence on such occa¬ 
sions, but other flowers are now used in 
greater profusion than what they used to he. 
Early-flowering Chrysanthemums offer a wide 
field for select ion ; their colours are attrac¬ 
tive, and they stand well when cut. IJliums 
are always admired, and L. tcstaceum, longi 
florum, and nuratum are three sorts that 
are always appreciated. A few hunches of 
Sweet Peas of one colour are often very effec¬ 
tive, and this demonstrates the advisability 
of having a late supply from which to draw 
fresh flowers in September. Dahlias make a 
bright show, as do Gladioli, while the early- 
blooming Starworts come in handy. All these 
do Wvdl near to a town, and will do much 
towards providing material wherewith to 
decorate a church, ami there are other 
things like Kniphofias, Echinops, Hdeniums, 
Phloxes, Rudbeokias, Anemone jnponiea, 
Eiyugiuins, H< lianthuscs, etc.- Townsman. 

Mixed borders of hardy plants. Even 
the misst. ardent admirer of bedding plants 
must have experienced a sense of disappoint¬ 
ment in the early part of this season nt the 
poor display in many instances afforded by 
itedding plants. Whilst some of them, at the 
date of writing these lines—July 9th have 
scarcely got over their chan 
few instances, owing/To'llie.c 


time we have experienced, have diminished 
rather than increased in size, the case of 
mixed borders of hardy plants is somewhat 
different. All through June such things as 
Flag Irises and Pvrethrums have given hold 
dashes of colour. The Spanish Irises, Del¬ 
phiniums. Peeonies, and Day Lilies (Ileme- 
roeallis) followed on, and when these have 
ceased to bloom we shall have Gaillar 
dias, Achilleas, Campanulas, Coreopsis, 
Lathyruses, and a host of other things not 
dependent so much upon the vagaries of a 
season as are some of the tender things we 
find amongst bedding plants. If ever there 
was a time when one could sound the praises 
of hardy flowering plants it is surely during 
the present season.— Woodbahtwick. 

Saxifraga cochlearis. —I regard this South 
European species as one of the best of the 
summer-flowering members of the encrusted 
section of the genus. The mature rosettes are 
cupped* and about H inch acrcss, the spoon- 
shajK*d leaves rendering it very distinct and 
pleasing. The plant is of free growth, and. 
when in flower, is among the most beautiful 
of the family. The blossoms are erect, and, 
save for the faint coloured spots at the base of 
the petals, snow-white, which, against the 
reddish-coloured stems, renders it a most 
attractive subject when in flower. Few mem¬ 
bers of the genus retain the blossoms so long 
in good condition, and, generally speaking, it 
is among the most d.eirable. There are also 
“major" and “minor" forms of the plant, 
and, l believe, varying stocks of the typical 
species, some of these having the blossoms less 
pure in tone. The above named, while not 
difficult to cultivate in good sandy loam, is 
certainly partial to chalk or loamy soils over 
lying that formation. This is more apparent 
in the size and general development of the 
rosettes, and is more appreciated when the 
plants are compared with others when only 
old mortar has been employed with the soil. 
The species should Ik* freely supplied with 
water during the summer, li. Jenkins. 

Snapdragons. -All through the wet days 
of June and the uncertain weather in the 
early part of July, the Snapdragons thrived 
and bloomed, and proved that for summer 
flowers, old-fashioned as they are, they are 
hard to beat. I have more than once recom¬ 
mended them to readers as plants for grow¬ 
ing on rockeries in dry weather, and now, in 
a season when moisture has lx*en so pre¬ 
valent, I can confidently recommend them. 
If you care to keep a few old plants during 
the winter they will bloom in advance of the 
plants raised from seed sown in March and 
April, but unless one particularly wishes to 
keep plants thus there is no need, for those 
from a spring sowing are not long behind old 
plants in blooming. The colours of Snap¬ 
dragons are such ns to appeal to anyone 
entering a garden where they arc grown in 
masses, and they are certainly worthy of 
being grown, old fashioned though they may 
he. Time was when cuttings were taken 
every autumn and wintered in a cold frame, 
but there is no necessity for this now in view 
of the fine strains of seeds one may procure 
with a certainty that they will produce bloom 
ing plants after a few mouths from date of 
sowing. Leahurst. 

Too many Sweet Peas. I welcome the im¬ 
provement now found in Sweet Peas, but the 
wisdom of giving so many names is at least 
doubtful. It tends to confusion, and dis¬ 
tracts attention from the tilings that arc 
really good and distinct. Within the past 
few years great advances have been made, 
and many new colours brought out among 
Sweet Pens, but the naming is overdone. 
Anyone who has time and space can test this 
by growing a collection. A few good things 
will he discovered, and many that rightly 
should never have been named at all. We 
are greatly indebted to those who have spent 
so much iabour among Sweet Peas, but. it is 
in the interests of all concerned that these 
sent out as new should be distinct, and only 
when this is the ease can the interest, and 
popularity of the flow, r Ik* sustained and ex 
tended.- T. 

The Whorl-flower (M nrina longifoliu). 
Few herbaceous plants in flower nt the pre¬ 
sent time can vie with this. It is a well- 
known hardy plant, although one does not 


often see it in first-class condition. This, in 
many instances, can be accounted for by the 
fact, of its being a gross feeder. It likes a 
rich, deep soil, and a liberal addition of cow- 
manure goes a long way in giving a robust, 
free-flowering plant. My plant with such 
treatment is just over 3 feet high, the numer¬ 
ous Thistle-like flower-stems covered with 
white and rose-coloured flowers, intermixed 
with long, spiny leaves. M. Coulteriana is a 
much rarer plant; the tufts of base leaves 
are very similar, but the flowers are rich yel¬ 
low and very sweet. M. betonica?folia is a 
much smaller species, requiring a peaty soil 
in a half-shady spot; the leaves are narrow, 
spiny, and the flowers dark purple, smaller, 
and not so ehowy os those of either of the 
above.-—A. 

Coneflowers (Rudbeekia). — These have 
made much growth during the past few weeks, 
doubtless owing to I he abundance of mois¬ 
ture, which lias suited them ; indeed, the 
Coneflowers, which suffered through the 
drought last season, have been in their ele¬ 
ment with the abundant rains. Amongst the 
Rudbcckias, the variety known as speciosa, 
with golden-yellow flowers and dark centre, 
seems very popular, whilst purpurea, which 
is rosy-purple, is little grown. R. purpurea 
I consider even more attractive in a garden 
than speciosa, although it may not, perhaps, 
b* quite so free blooming. Rudbcckias are 
good town garden plants.— Derby. 

Verbenas growing them hardy. -With 
the introduction of.Ellen Willmott commenced 
a new interest in these old garden favourites. 
Growers that, can go hack forty years can 
remember their popularity then. The good 
old kinds, such as Foxhunter, Purple King, 
and Mrs. llolford, would not have dwindled 
down as they did had they received cold treat¬ 
ment. Now many are growing the variety 
referred to, and a few other strong, robust 
kinds. At the close of June, I potted 
up cuttings -ocwrul into 5-inch and G inch 
pots. These 1 shall grow on in the open all 
the summer, keeping them pinched. When 
severe frost sets in these will Ik* removed to a 
cold pit. and to a cold house later on. Thus 
treated they will give abundance of fine cut 
tings in spring, and far letter than stock 
raised faom cuttings in autumn to be stored 
for winter. —J. C. F. 

Tree-Paeonies from seed.— The plants of 

this Ptrony arc now forming seed-pods, ami if 
one wants good plants, save the seeds, sow 
them as soon as ripe, and you will be satisfied 
with the results. The finest lot of these 
plants I ever saw was this season at Profes¬ 
sor Sargent’s place in Brookline, Mass. His 
gardener, Mr. Sander, grew the plants from 
seed put in six years ago, anil the seedlings 
certainly were grand, and contained many 
shades of colour among the flowers, yet all of 
them of that peculiar delicacy which is cha¬ 
racteristic of the Japanese Tree-Piconies.— 
J. W. Duncan, in Florist** Exchange. 

Transplanting Wallflowers As soon as Wall¬ 
flowers are large enough to handle they should he 
pricked off separately, as to permit them to reimiin 
in the seed-beds longer is ralciilutcd to make them 
weak and lanky. Some prefer to shift them again, 
going them n hid to themselves until it is time to 
place them in their lumI quarters in October. In 
any case, there is nothing to be gained by allowing 
plants to remain too long at this time of the year 
in seed-beds, and the sooner they are transplanted 
the better. It ought not to he forgotten that there 
is no necessity to give the plants a rich feeding- 
ground, and, therefore, this should bo avoided. 
Ordinary garden-soil is good enough for them in their 
early stages of growth, at all events, the aim being 
to have sturdy specimens, and this is scarcely pos¬ 
sible if much manure is used in the soil.—W. F. L>. 

Night scented flowers. — There arc certain 
flowers that exhale their fragrance in a special degree 
at night, and amongst those which are easily grown 
are Nicotiana mid Mutlhioln bicorni*. Rocket-*, too 
give off their fragrance at night. Beds of Mignon¬ 
ette carry their sweetness, but never more so than at 
the close’ of day; ami the same may tie said of Pinks 
nnd Sweet llriers. Sweet-scented flowers should be 
grown near to the windows of the house, so that 
their sweetness may pervade the rooms.- Townsman. 

Zinnias: the effect of bad weather. I do net 

remember a season when, owing to the continued 
cold weather, tilings in the garden looked so starves!. 
Zinnias, tender annuals, that more than any I know 
revel in the sunshine of n warm border, have done 
very badly so far; indeed, some that I planted out — 
ami I deferred doing so until the middle of June, 
hoping the weather would improve—have rather 
diminished in size, and, in consequence of the very 
Hold night*,-look anything but promising.-yhEAHLHST. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


ge, and in not a 
col.l 


"W 




August 3, 1007 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


290 


FRUIT. 

EARLY PEACHES. 

Early Readies are always in demand. 
Since the introduction of the early American 
varieties, notably Alexander and Waterloo, 
the season of Peaches has been much ex¬ 
tended, for none of our British kinds ripen 
so early in the year under natural or forcing 
conditions. Moreover, they arc hardy, and, 
outdoors, extremely prolific, which is not 
always the experience of those who force 
them early. These American Peaches have 
a disappointing trait of dropping their buds 
nt a season when forcing lias been continued 
for some time. I have recollec t ions of trees 
that, after having been forced for several 
weeks, carry only about half a dozen fruits. 
For this reason I have now discarded them 
from the forcing-house, and substituted 
Amsden June, another American kind, but 
still a more reliable forcer. I have had no 
difficulty in getting ripe fruits from these 
trees in April, when circumstances required 
them, but to get them thus early they need 
to Ik*, started in the previous November and 
kept constantly warm. There is a consider¬ 
able degree of mystery about these early 
American Peaches, for the time between the 
stoning period and the ripening of the fruit 
is remarkably short, and 
H would seem that while 
those are ripening other 
*orts are making only 
slow—sometimes i': would 
seem very slew—progress. 

Why so much can be ac¬ 
complished in so little 
time cannot ho clearly 
understood. For several 
seasons my fruits of 
Alexander ami Waterloo, 
outdoors, have ripened by 
about the middle of 
August. Amsden June is 
equally early and depend¬ 
able. Another introduc¬ 
tion from America is 
much earlier, as my only 
tree gave ripe fruit out¬ 
doors this year at the 
extraordinarily early 
date, June 28th, and this 
in a season so prover¬ 
bially late. Quite ten 
days’ more time will be 
required to bring the or¬ 
dinary crop of Alexander 
to maturity, compared 
with other years, so that 
the ripening of Earliest 
of All (the name of this 
new one) in June is re¬ 
markable in such a sum¬ 
mer as that of 1907. 

The average date for my first pickings of 
Alexander outdoors is the middle of July, 
but this year it will be nearer the end of the 
month before there will be ripe fruit to 
gather. 

The tendency of these Peaches to bear so 
abundantly militates against their size, and, 
unless severe thinning is practised, it is im¬ 
possible to have fruits of full average size 
outdoors. These very early Peaches are not 
regarded as of high flavour, nor is there that 
firmness which characterises our own varie¬ 
ties, such as Bellegarde or Royal George. 
Thus the most careful handling and gather- I 
ing must be exercised, otherwise finger prints 
are mad; to a serious extent, and the slightest 1 
bruise lessens their value, when they must j 
necessarily be kept in the store for a day or 
two. It. is necessary to examine ripening 
crops almost daily. If Left until fully ripe 
on the trees, it is almost impossible to gather | 
the fruits without bruising. Some find it 
necessary to use a pad of soft cotton wool in j 
gathering Peaches, but it is a practice I never 
adopt, because by a daily course of examina¬ 
tion they are taken from the tree before they 
are so advanced in ripeness. 

Sunshine, one cf the most essential ele¬ 
ments in successful Peach culture, indoors or 
outside, has been most irregular this season, 
so far, the loss of which-i^ distinctly apparent 
in the pauqity of leif grr—■-*- 
Peach, ’but' other tre 


comes plenty of sunshine Peaches must be 
undersized from open walls. There lias been 
ample soil moisture, and the moisture-laden 
atmosphere has lessened the need for syring¬ 
ing. Still, all these several apparently 
favourable conditions fail to supplement, the 
loss imposed by the absence of sun. Every 
kind of fruit-tree growing out-of-doors or 
under glass flowered splendidly, and, but for 
the cold, ungenial weather, there would have 
been further records in fruit crops this year. 
There are even now some instances where 
phenomenal crops are borne, the fruits re¬ 
quiring to be very much thinned. Where 
there are heavy crops stimulants may lie- ad¬ 
ministered with advantage. Artificial 
manures may be applied to the surface in 
stormy weather, and at once raked in, or they 
may need to be watered in at once. Of joint 
value in this manure dressing is imilching- 
tliat is, in land which is of a light and 
medium texture, or where the site is an ele¬ 
vated and, consequently, well, drained one. 
Half-decayed manure serves this purpose very 
well, os docs that fresh from the stable. 1 
should prefer the shorter material where the 
soil is heavier, and also afford a lighter coat¬ 
ing, so that the sun’s influence is not too 
rigidly excluded. Warmth of the soil as well 
us of the air is’an essential condition for 
Pea-ch growth, and, this being so, clayey soils 



Peach Early Alexander. 


need but little covering up with any kind of 
manure mulch, in order that the fullest ad¬ 
vantage is taken of the available solar in¬ 
fluences. Trees that already display ample 
vigour do not need further attention, in the 
shape of manures, liquid or dry, as to over¬ 
feed such trees only tends toward undue 
luxuriance of leaf. It is better to abstain 
from the use of manures altogether, and 
afford the trees, when necessary, a sufficiency 
of clear water only, thus rendering available 
the food already present in the soil. 

W. Strugnell. 

Hood Ashton Cardens. 


NOTES AND HEP LIES. 

Treatment of Vines. -I enclose a sample cutting 
off my Vines. It lias been put in its present position 
for twelve months, and has showed about eight 
hunches of fruit; hut they have all dropped off one 
by one, and now there are none left. The name is 
Black Hamburgh. The house is 12 feet by 8 feet, 
and is heated. The roots are outside, in a good bed. 
I have taken a great deal of care with it. I cannot 
say whether syringing has caused the fruit to rot off. 
I sent you a sample of the fruit about two weeks 
ago. I should he obliged if you could inform me 
the cause of my failure, and what my procedure 
should now be to ensure the Vine fruiting next year, 
as I am an amateur?— Clifton. 

[We assume the portion of growth taken 
from your Vine to be a lateral or side-growth 
issuing from the 'main rod. On examining 
the piece of grow th sent, we find what looks 


more like the base of a tendril than the 
stalk of a bunch, and suspect that the bunches 
you mention partook more of the character 
of tendrils, each having just, a few flowers at 
the points only. Such abortive bunches 
always come to nothing, and it is just ns well 
they have done so, in your case, as we fear 
you are in too great a hurry to fruit your 
Vine. It would be quite soon enough to take 
a few bunches the second season, but it would 
be far better to wait till the third year before 
doing so. as the Vine, judging by the speci¬ 
men growth you send, is none too robust. For 
the remainder of the present season, encour¬ 
age the Vine to make all the growth possible, 
which will mean a corresponding quantity of 
roots being made in the border. To this end 
such routine matters as syringing, damping, 
border watering, and affording ventilation, 
must, iu the meantime, be carefully attended 
to. With regard to the stopping of the 
growths, we can hardly advise you how to 
proceed, seeing you give no information what¬ 
ever as to the condition of Vine in this direc¬ 
tion. Your best plan would be to write us 
again, giving a brief description as to how 
the Vine was pruned before starting to force 
it, whether it has produced many or any 
lateral growths, if these have been stopped, 
and in what manner, if you have pinched sub- 
laterals, etc., and we will then endeavour to 
give you further advice in the matter. When 
sending further queries, please write on one 
side of the paper only.] 

Pears cranking - Will you tell me the cause or 
the enclosed Pears splitting? They are from young 
trees, about four or five years old (espaliers). 
Beurrd d’Amanlis. Beurn? Did, and Louise Bonne of 
Jersey. This is their first year of bearing, and almost 
everyone on the trees is split in this way. The trees 
were carefully planted, and in the spring were 
covered with bloom.—L. 8. B. 

[Your Pears have been Attacked by the 
fungus Cladosporium dendriticum, which 
causes cracking of the skins and black spots 
on the fruits, as in the cose of those you send. 
The trouble lies at the roots, which have evi¬ 
dently got. down into a wet, cold, subsoil. 
The remedy lies in lifting the trees in the 
autumn, and treating them to encourage 
fibrous roots on the surface. When the trees 
vre leafless, you ought to dress them with 
the caustic alkali solution, which has been so 
often recommended in these pages.] 

Cherry Amber Heart or Kentish Bigar- 

reau.- This is a very popular Cherry, and is 
largely grown in Kent, both for market and 
private consumption. In common with many 
other varieties of Cherry, Amber Heart. 1ms 
borne exceedingly well this season, the fruits 
having attained a large size, the flavour being 
as good as can be expected when the nature 
of the season is taken into consideration. 
Considering that rains have been so frequent, 
cracking of the flesh has not been nearly *»> 
prevalent as in some seasons, when a great 
many fruits are spoilt. This Cherry has an 
excellent constitution, and, not being so prone 
to gumming ns are some of the other sorts 
belonging to this race, it may be grown either 
on a wall or os a hush or standard without 
any misgiving.—A. W. 

Cherry Archduke. Those who prefer 
Cherries having a soft, juicy flesh to those of 
an opposite character, such as the Biganeaus 
and the Heart race, will find in Archduke the 
properties they desire. It is much like May 
Duke in appearance, but larger, and, if 
allowed to hang for some little time, the 
colour, which nt first, is bright red, becomes 
a glossy black. The flesh is deep red, juicy, 
and highly flavoured when fully ripe. It is a. 
good grower, bears freely, and will suc¬ 
ceed on a north aspect if it, is desired to pro¬ 
long the Cherry season. On a warmer aspect 
it ripens early in July; in fact, by planting 
this and the other varieties of the Duke. 
Cherries on various aspects, a long succession 
may be had. Although really dessert varie¬ 
ties, all the Cherries belonging to this race 
uiHy be utilised for cooking. They also suc¬ 
ceed where the Biggareaus and Hearts grow 
but indifferently or are a failure, and may 
also be cultivated in the form of bushes in 
borders by the side of footpaths, when the 
produce can be easily protected from birds 
by enclosing the trees in Tinch mesh netting. 
-G. P. K. 




300 


GARDENING ILLUME. IT ED. 


August 3, 1907 


GARDEN WORK. 

Conservatory. There will he n gnotl deal 
of work among Chrysanthemums for the next 
month or 60 . If fine flowers, true to char¬ 
acter, are wanted, remove the crown-buds and 
take the next bud when ready next month. 
If the plants are potted in good stuff, liquid- 
manure may not be required to any great 
extent just yet. Chrysanthemums require a 
good deal of water when growing freely at 
this season, and yet it should be given with 
judgment. If overwatered, the plants very 
soon show it. mid a water-logged plant may 
as well be thrown out. Our man, when 
watering Chrysanthemums, generally gives 
each pot a tap with the toe of his hoot as he 
moves from plant to plant, and he seldom 
makes n mistake. If Arum Lilies are kept in 
pots, thoe? which have rested may l>o shaken 
out, repotted, given mi open position on a 
coal-ash bed, and be kept moist. Coprosma 
Baueriana variegata is rather a pretty golden 
leaved Japanese plant. To get up a stock of 
this, plant an old plant out, peg out the 
shoots and cover with sandy soil. It is not 
an easy plant to strike from cuttings, but. 
when layered, every bit will root. Vallotas 
should be placed outside now to ripen the 
bulbs ; every bulb will then flower freely. 
Crinunw may be treated in the same way. All 
the Cactus and Alo;; family in fact, all suc¬ 
culents will enjoy a month or six weeks out¬ 
side now in the sunshine. Bouvardias will do 
w ith cold-pit treatment now, freely ventilated, 
to get sturdy growth. Grow without shade. 
All Cyclamens may be potted now. Young 
plants which are growing freely will be ready 
for 5 inch pots. Older plants may have 
6 inch pots. Have the compost as turfy 
as possible. We like a bit of fibrous pent 
with the loam and leaf-mould, and a pound 
per bushel of a good artificial plant food is a 
great help to plants in small pots. Seeds 
should lie sown now to raise stock for next 
year. Sow thinly in shallow boxes, place on 
shelf in a shaded house, and keep moist. 

Stove. —As Caladiums lose colour gradu¬ 
ally withhold water, so that they may go 
quietly to rest. The plants started late will 
yet be full of vigour. C. argvrites is useful 
for table decoration, and by starting in suc¬ 
cession may be kept in condition well into 
the winter. Bright-leaved Dracaenas and the 
long-leaved section of Crotons are among the 
most useful table plants, and young plants 
should lie raised annually from cuttings to 
meet this demand. Gesneras are useful in 
winter, and any bulbe still resting should 
be started in heat. They will want a little 
warmth in a season like the present; a hot¬ 
bed is the place for them, as they want, for a 
time, anyway, warmth and shade. Fires 
must be kept going in the warm stove, as the 
nights still keep very cold, and atmospheric 
moisture should bear some proportion to the 
fire used. 

Ferns under glass. Spores may be col¬ 
lected from large specimens, and sown a*, 
soon as ripe in paws or pots filled with rather 
heavy loam made firm. Give a soaking cf 
water, sow on the damp soil, and give a 
very light sprinkling of silver sand. The 
future watering should he provided by stand¬ 
ing the pots in pane which contain water. 
If watered on the surface, the spoixo may Ik- 
carried too deep for germination. Cover the 
pots with squares of glass, to keep close and 
check evaporation. Young plants may 1 m* 
potted at any time where there is warmth, 
but larger plants which require more pot 
room should be nhifted now or not at all, ns 
late potting of large plants is not wise. If 
fronds are required for cutting, ventilate 
freely in warm weather, and keep as near tins 
glass as possible. These should be shaded 
in bright weather, or the fronds will lose 
colour. A mixture of flour and lime, or whit¬ 
ing, will do for the fernery, if blinds cannot 
be provided. Most of the Aspleniums can be 
propagated by detaching the (smaller bulblets 
which form over the fronds, pressing them 
into boxes filled with a mixture of loam, peat, 
and sand, and keeping in warmth and shade. 

Diseased Crapes.— It is better to prevent 
than cure; and mo^t^pf itie troubles of the 
Grape growers ai£ prewgr.tibkrx I Shanking 
arises from lack (^nlArilhentVtl Nie right 


time, due to deficient root action, either from 
want of nourishment on the surface or deep 
rooting in a cold, inert soil. Extreme dryness 
at the root, has b\*en known to produce shank¬ 
ing. and will bring on an attack of mildew, 
and may lead to cracking of the berries. De¬ 
ficiency of good foliage, through close stop¬ 
ping or pinching, by its check upon root 
action, may cause trouble in several forms 
that may lead to shanking or scalding; and, 
above all, deficient ventilation is often the 
forerunner of mildew, scalding, and red 
spider. The result chiefly hinges upon the 
action of the roots and the foliage, and in 
healthy Vines the two should work together. 
Planting Vines in deep, badly-drained bur 
rlers will, sooner or later, bring failure, i 
There arc positions where the soil and drain 
| age are naturally suitable, and. therefore, 
very little expense beyond rich surface dress 
ings need h- incurred. The market grower 
generally looks out for these position*, but 
the private gardener cannot do so, and, 
therefore, wisely endeavours to make the 
roots comfortable. Of all diseases the worst 
is shanking, and. in bad cases, which cannot 
be met by surface feeding, the roots must be 
lift d and made comfortable. 

Lilies in the house. L. auralum is too 
highly scented for use indoors, but there L 
not the same objection to longifloruiu or 
lancifoliiim, ami the flowers last well iu a 
cool room. As many people find interest 
in watching things grow, the Lilies may actu¬ 
ally be grown in a light- room which is freely 
ventilated. Retarded bulbs of I.. longifloruiu 
arc cheaper now than usual this season, and 
purchasers may grow them from the stait to 
the finish indoors, if well cared for. 

Outdoor garden. -The common Laurel, 
though still used for tilling up shrubln'i ies, 
can scan- ■ 1 y he called a popular plant, us on 
Home soils it soon gets scraggy and dies off at 
the bottom ; but where Laurels are planted 
at all the. round-leaved Laurel makes a bel¬ 
ter and hardier shrub, and may 1 h* used for 
undergrowth h neath trees. This season 
Laurels and other evergreens have made more 
growth than usual, and the long shoots may 
now lx? cut buck with the knife. Large- 
leaved shrubs, such as Laurels and Hollies, 
should never bj cut with the shears. Yew ; 
and Privet hedges may be trimmed with the 
shears now. The Cherry-Plum makes a good 
hedge, will grow anywhere, is as cheap as 
the common Privet, and makes a much better 
hedge. Since the re introduction of what is 
called the old English garden. Lavender 
hedges are very appropriate. The plants are 
now coming into flower, and after flowering 
what pruning is requin d should be done. 
Cuttings will root in a shady border, and the 
plants are easily raised from seeds, w hich may 
be sown now in drills 9 inches apart; or the 
seeds may be sown in a box and the seedlings 
afterwards pricked out. Those who wish to 
create colour pictures in the shrubbery may 
plant Acer polymorphum atrcsaegmucuin in 
a group, as it is hardy enough ; and then? are 
others of tin* newer Japanese Maples which 
may be used. 

Fruit garden. As far as possible. Straw 
berries should be selected to suit the soil. 
Bedford Champion is one of the best mid - 
season kinds, and. as far os my experienc? 
goes. Givoifs Late Prolific is tin* best late 
variety; in fact, one large grower tells me it 
is the only late kind worth growing. These 
may be obtained at a- reasonable price now. 
Make the ground firm before planting. Blind 
new may bo traced to planting in loose, rich 
ground, and if the. plants do not In come blind, 
the fluwero are imperfect, and there is no 
crop worth saving. A barren plant this sea 
son, when the failure arises from this cause, 
may teeconie fertile next year, but it is not 
wise to trust to it. Over-luxuriance in Straw¬ 
berries i« just ns great nit evil as it is iu 
fruit trees, and generally arises from the 
same cause- a rich, loose soil. The summer 
pruning of fruit-trees should be proceeded 
with now, as the trees are making a good 
d?al of wood, and the fruits require exposure. 
Of course, trees which bear heavy crops do 
not make much wood, and these are the trees 
which require support with mulch and water, 
and, if necessary, the removal of some of the 
fruite. Many fruit failure? arise in the case 


of trained or restricted trees from loo much 
leaf growth forcing the roots downwards. 

Vegetable garden. -The quality of Pota¬ 
toes in rich, holding soils is this season in¬ 
ferior, from lack of sunshine. The b?st 
flavour will be found in the old Ash top type, 
which many have discarded for heavier crop¬ 
ping varieties. I have not yet seen any 
disease, but those who wish to 6ave their 
crops should not neglect spraying with Bor¬ 
deaux mixture. This should be done in time, 
and repeated, as one dressing is not sufficient. 
The expense is nut great, but the spray fluid 
should be equally distributed, 6o that every 
leaf may get its share. Those who have only 
small plots to deal with may us? the syringe 
with a flue rose, and the cost is so trifling 
that cottagers may spray their Potatoes, but 
it must be done at once, before the discus i 
appears. Bow Cabbage* for spring use. Even 
when an early sowing is made iu July it is 
lx*tier to make a further sowing iu August - 
about the first week, nr rather later iu tins 
south. Weeds have given much trouble in 
Consequence of the wet weather, but an effort 
should be made to clear them out before they 
seed. Sow Spinach Tor autumn and early 
winter use. The main winti r supply will lx? 
sown later, during August. Sow Turnips for 
standing the winter, and Unions early in tlm 
month. E. IIobday. 


THE COMING WEEK’S WORK. 

Kxtrw ts fruin a (lurdui Diary. 

.1 ttijusf. 5th. Made a last sowing of Cab¬ 
bages fur spring. Finished planting Straw¬ 
berries. All runners and weeds have been 
cleared from beds intended to remain. We 
have found Elton Pine on a west aspect very 
useful late iu the season, and the alpines 
are coining in freely now. The early flower- 
spikes were removed from these, as a good 
supply is more important. 

August tith. Prepared a bed of saiulv soil 
in the shade of a wall, on which a couple or 
three francs will bo placed for the propaga¬ 
tion of various hardv plant? and choice ever¬ 
green shrubs. The shrubs will have a frame 
to themselves, as they require more time. 
Nearly everything in the sluub way will 
strike now, if carefully managed. Shade is 
necessary as well ns sprinklings with a fine- 
rosed pot after a hot day, a little air being 
given early in the rooming. 

A UfjuM 7th. All the old flower stems hav i 
been removed from early bearing Globe Arti¬ 
chokes, but younger plants are bearing freely, 
and are supplied with liquid. One row that 
was cut over in the spring, to keep the plants 
back, is now throwing up quite a number of 
succulent bends. Peaches on south wall have 
been exposed bv thrusting the leaves on one 
wide and nailing in all growing shoots. Plums 
are turning out a better crop than was at one 
time expected. The fruit on several trees of 
Victoria lias required thinning. 

August Sth. Pressed down the necks of 
Onions to hasten ripening. The plants 
raised under glase have made good bulbs. All 
Lettuces and Endives are tied up to blanch 
when nearly full grown. Succession a 1 crops 
are sown and planted, as there must lx* no 
break in the supply. Thinned late-sown 
Parsley. Planted the thinnings on the south 
side of a fence, where the plants can le 
covered, if necessary. We find this bed very 
useful ill spring. 

Auymt Uth. We are busy nmv putting in 
cuttings of bedding plants, as a good many 
Pelargoniums and other things are wanted, 
and we usually save some of the old plants 
and strike cuttings in spring. The difficulty 
nmv is to get- cuttings without disfiguring the 
beds, ns that- would not be |K*rniitted just- 
yet, and late cuttings do imt strike so well. 
All Pelargoniums will strike outside now, 
but soft tilings will go into a frame. 

Aii'ju-.t l"th. Cinerarias, Primulas, Cycla¬ 
mens. and Calceolarias are now in cold 
frames, shaded thinly in bright weather. We 
are shading with canvas, which is ensily 
moved. Whitewash shades too much, and the 
leaves draw up weakly. Liquid-manure is 
being used for nearly all plants which have 
filled trie ,-pols with roots. This .infers to 
liardiwinded plants like Azalea? as well a? 
soft stuff. It is giypn weak. 




August 3, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


301 


ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY, 
JULY 23rd. 

After the Temple and Holland House Shows, 
one would have expected a rather thin meet¬ 
ing ; but such was not the case by any means, 
the hall being well filled with exhibits, in¬ 
cluding Orchids, Roses, Carnations in pots, 
Sweet Peas, hardy plants in great variety, 
cut shrubs, with fine collections of Peas, and 
also several exhibits of Strawberries, Toma¬ 
toes, etc. In our limited space we cannot 
allude to every exhibit, but the following 
were noteworthy : The group of hardv plants 
(cut flowers) from Mr. Perry was very taste¬ 
fully arranged, and contained some fine 
varieties, while the water garden and water¬ 
side vegetation showed the variety of plants 
that may be used in this way. The cut 
shrubs from Lord Aldenh&m formed a very 
interesting exhibit. The cut Malmaiaon Car¬ 
nations from Lady Hillingdon were the best 
we have seen, while the Carnations in pots, 
arranged in undulating banks, by Messrs. 
Cut bush and Son, were also very fine. Mr. 
J. Forbes, Hawick, sent a varied collection of 
well grown Delphiniums, Phloxes, and Pent 
stemons. Messrs. W. Paul and Soil, Wal¬ 
tham Cries, made a fine display of the newer 
Roses, to one of which, Hugo Roller, an 
award of merit, was given. In this the outer 
petals are deep crimson, the centre of a soft, 
creamy yellow. It will, no doubt, be a valu¬ 
able Rose in the autumn, as then the crimson 
shade in the outer petals will be considerably 
heightened. Messrs. Bide and Son, Farn- 
hani, showed their new Rose, Queen of Spain, 
and we have never seen it in better condition. 
Mr. Jas. Douglas sent a fine group of Carna¬ 
tions, including Malmaisons and border 
varieties. Mr. A. F. Dutton, Bucks, and Mr. 
Mortimer. Farnham, each sent Americ an Car¬ 
nations in many varieties, the flowers in both 
eases excellent. A very interesting exhibit 
was that from Messrs. Gauntlett and Co.. 
Ltd.. Chiddingford, Surrey, comprising forms 
of Iris laevigata. Messrs. H. B. May and 
Sons showed in fine form Ixora Fraseri, T. 
Willi am si, and a magnificent head of I. 
niaerofchyrsa. Phloxes were shown by 
Messrs. Gunn and Sons. Olton, Birmingham. 
Messrs. Sutton and Sons, Reading, sent a col¬ 
lection of fifty-six of the leading varieties of 
Peas now in commerce, and also over twenty 
unnamed seedlings. Messrs. Carter and Co*, 
High Holborn, had also a collection of Peas, 
which were sown on March 27tli, as also seve¬ 
ral seedlings. Messrs King and Co. and Mr. 
W. Deal also exhibited Peas. Messrs. Rivers 
sent from Sawbridgeworth a collection of 
Cherries, the Messrs. Laxton, Bedford, con¬ 
tributing several new Strawberries, to one 
of which, named Fillbasket, an award of 
merit was given. 

A list of the medals awarded will be found 
in our advertisement columns. 


LAW AND CUSTOM. 

Cardener s notice to leave (Don;.-You 
were engaged on a weekly contract, as I 
understand, and it was ngreed that a weeks 
notice on cither side should suffice. Is that 
so? If it be that, then you must leave on a 
week's notice, and that notice may be given at 
any time unless it was specifically understood 
that it was to end only upon a Saturday. 
Now in this case, as there was a cottage in¬ 
cluded, and the weekly value of that cottage 
presumably was taken into consideration 
when the wages were fixed, I think you would 
be entitled to remain in it until the Saturday. 
But what a trifling quibble this is, to be sure. 
What does it matter whether you leave on 
Friday night or Saturday? Besides, the 
matter will be all over long before you see 
this reply.- Barrister. 

Cutting top of hedge (E. M.). I do not 
understand what you mean by the “right" of 
cutting the hedge. Do you mean the duty of 
doing so, or Is it that you wish to exercise the 
power of cutting, and wish to know whether 
you have that power? The first question is, 
which party the hedge belongs to. If to 
you, then you may cut i^"Sf to your neigh¬ 
bour, then you may not fcut_it utaes^it) (|ve?- 
hangs your land, and theVyliririay owktfwiry 


as much of it as actually does overhang your 
land. I cannot, of course, determine from 
the particulars given me, whether it is your 
hedge or your neighbour’s. 1 rather infer, 
however, that it belongs to your neighbour, 
having been planted beyond the limit of your 
own garden. This is one of those numerous 
questions which reach me couched in vague, 
indefinite terms. Instead of putting the 
matter hypothetically you should have stated 
the facts precisely and fully, and your ques¬ 
tion should have been accompanied by a 
rough sketch showing the situation.— 
Barrister. 

Neighbour's demand for trees to be cut - 

The landlord of a neighbour of mine has requested 
me to cut down some trees growing in my garden, 
as they obstruct the light from his kitchen. He 
claims an angle of light of 45 degs. from sill of 
window. This would mean cutting the trees to a 
height of 10 feet—below the bottom boughs, in 
fact—and, as they are ornamental flowering trees. I 
have refused to do this. The trees arc about SO feet 
high, and twice I have taken 10 feet oft the tops to 
oblige him, and row he wants them cut right down. 
Can he compel me to do this? The trees have heen 
planted about eighteen years. This I have pointed 
out to him : blit he says his housp was built before 
mine and before the tiers were planted, and he is 
entitled to 45 degs. of light. I have oflered to pay 
half cost of putting a larger window to kitchen, and 
this he has accepted, but without prejudice to hi? 
rights in future if his tenant still complains of insuf- 
fleient light. I took my house five years ago solely 
oti account of the trees in garden, of which there 
are a number, all flowering, and if 1 cut. those down 
that he wants my garden will be overlooked from his 
back windows. Three years ago he cut off the 
boughs of a splendid Almond that overhung his 
garden. The check was so great that the tree 
gradually died, and is now a skeleton, without a 
leaf. It did no harm to his garden beyond littering 
it with leaves in the autumn. I feel very reluctant 
to cut the trees any more.—(J. H. I’. 

[In my opinion, you would bo quite within 
your rights in erecting a tall wooden hoard 
mg on your own ground to prevent your 
premises being overlooked from his windows. 
The fact that your neighbour’s house was 
built, before your trees were planted has 
nothing whatever to do with the matter. Un¬ 
less he can prove uninterrupted access of 
light to his window for not less than twenty 
years, he has no right to light at any angle 
whatever. I gather that he is not in a posi¬ 
tion to prove any such thing, and, therefore, 
my advice to you is that you do not weaken 
vour case any more than you have already 
done by offering any terms whatever, but that 
you make a firm stand, refuse to consider the 
matter in any way, and refer him to your 
solicitor. If you do not make a stand in this 
way you will be giving him rights which will 
be intolerable to you in the future.— 
Barrister.] 


POULTRY. 

PRESERVATION OF EGGS IN WATER 
GLASS. 

One of the most popular and commonly used 
methods of preserving eggs is by means of 
water-glass. Though this method was intro¬ 
duced only comparatively recently, it has 
largely superseded older methods, and ap¬ 
pears to have led to the more frequent pro 
nervation of eggs on a small scale in house¬ 
holds and by small traders. Usually eggs are 
obtained when they are plentiful and cheap 
in spring, and preserved for use during the 
winter months, so that it is necessary to keep 
them for about six months. Some experi¬ 
ments as to the length of time they would 
keep without undergoing d’eay or any other 
serious change in composition were made by 
Mr. James Hendrick, B.Ko., of the Univer¬ 
sity of Aberdeen, in which it was found that 
eggs which had been kept in water glass for a 
few months could hardly bo distinguished in 
appearance, flavour, and smell, either raw or 
cooked, from what are called “fresh eggs"— 
that is, fresh eggs in the; commercial sense, 
which may be several days’ old. The eggs 
which had been preserved in water glass for 
about six months tasted and smelt like well- 
kept eggs a few days old. As the eggs in 
question were a few days old when they went 
into the water-glass, it did not seem that 
they were appreciably changed. As the eggs 
get older, however, a distinct change occurs, 
which can be appreciated both by the eye 
and palate. Eggs which have been three- or 
four yews jp water-glass en;e easily recog¬ 


nised. The white becomes pink in colour and 
very liquid, and the eggs acquire a slightly 
peculiar taste, suggestive of soda. At the 
same time, even when four years old, the 
eggs had no unpleasant taste or smell, and 
the white coagulated in the usual manner in 
cooking. The changes in the preserved eggs 
take place very gradually. At one year old 
they are hardly noticeable, at two j T ears they 
are distinct, but not so distinct as at three 
or four years old. 

An endeavour was also made to determine 
whether anv distinct changes take place in 
the composition of eggs when kept in water- 
glass, ajid especially whether the soda and 
silica of the water glass penetrate into the 
egg to any great extent. The general conclu¬ 
sion arrived at is that there is practically no 
change in the composition, even lrom 
lengthened immersion, and that practically 
no silica, and, very little, if any, soda find 
their way into the eggs. A slow deposition 
of silica takes place in the shells, which 
blocks up the pores of the shells to some ex¬ 
tent. and renders them Ipsa permeable. 
Journal of /hr Board of Agriculture. 


THE DRY SYSTEM OF FEEDING 
CHICKENS. 

The dry system of feeding chickens has now 
passed beyond the experimental stage, and, 
owing to the many and great advantages it 
possesses over the older method, it is being 
adopted by poultry-keepers all over the coun¬ 
try. It does not matter whether one rears a 
dozen or a thousand chickens in the treason the 
advantages are the same, and after trying 
both systems for several years past I pro- 
nounce strongly in favour of the new' or dry 
method. The disadvantages of the moist 
system so called in contradistinction to the 
dry—arc many. In the first place, constant 
labour is involved in preparing the food 
during the first few weeks of the chickens’ 
lives, as it is necessary to give it warm and 
fresh every few hours ; difficulty is almost in¬ 
variably experienced 1 in persunding the 
3 'oungsters to take exercise, so necessary a 
factor towards health and vigour; mortality 
early in the season, especially in cold or damp 
situations, ranges high ; and the actual cost 
of the various ingredients is by no means low. 
All these difficulties are overcome by adopting 
the dry system, which consists in only supply¬ 
ing a mixture of grains during the first month 
of the chicken’s existence. When I first 
adopted this method I continued feeding on 
grains only right up to the time the birds at¬ 
tained maturity, hut by later investigations 
and experiments I have found that after a 
month the chickens require one or two meals 
a day of soft foed. 

Up to the age of a month, then, hard grain 
only is supplied, for which the chickens have 
to scratch. The floor of the coop or brooder - 
is covered to the depth of 3 inches or 4 inches 
with straw-chaff, among which the mixture of 
grains is scattered. In this manner the 
chickens have to he constantly hard at work, 
and this is undoubtedly the main reason why 
the system is so very successful. Instead of 
the chickens standing idle the whole day long 
they are always busily employed, and very 
soon learn that if they do not work hard they 
have to go hungry. Once every day, or at the 
most twice, sufficient grain is thrown down to 
bust the birds until the next time of feeding. 
Only those who have actually tried this system 
can realise what an enormous saving of labour 
this represents. Whereas under the moist 
system a man coulcl attend to, say, a thousand 
chickens, under the dry system he can in the 
same time look after three times the number. 

The objectionable feature of the dry method 
of feeding is that it lends itself so readily to 
waste. Unless the utmost care is exercised a 
large proportion of the grain will lie thrown 
away when renewing the chaff. 1 have fre¬ 
quently examined the chaff in a brooder, and 
found lying on the floor a large quantity of 
grain which had every appearance of having 
been there for days. It. should be a strict, 
rule when this method is adopted never to 
scatter any more grain unti’l all the old supply 
is quite exhausted. 

I do not attach a great deal of importance 
to the exact mixture of grains employed, be- 


302 


GARDENING IL L UNTIL! TE D. 


August 3, 1907 


cause ifc stands to reason that one cannot 
train the chickens to eat so many grains of 
one seed and so many of another. There are 
now on the market several excellent prepa¬ 
rations of dry feed which can be confidently 
recommended. 1 have always prepared my 
own, however, as then I can vary the mixture 
according to the time of year and the ngc of 
the chickens. The basis of the mixture 1 use 
is the following : -Three parts of Wheat, two 
parte of Dari, Oatmeal, Canary-seed, and 
Millet, one part of Maize, Buckwheat, Rice, 
grit, and meat. Counting one part as 7 lb., 
the above works out to 1 cwt. Buying the 
grains in small quantities the mixture can l>e 
prepared for about 10s. Gd. per cwt., which 
is cheaper than the advertised mixtures, 
taking into account quality as well as price. 
The Wheat and Maize require to be cracked, 
as they are too large when whole. 

E. T. B. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

Questions.— Querie.s and answers are inserted in 
Gardening free of At a rye if correspondents follow three 
rules : AU communications should ha clearly and concisely 
writ.ten on one side of the paper only, and a*Ul reused to 
the Editor of Gardening, If, Fur nival-street, llolhorn, 
London, K.C. Letters on business should he sod to the 
Puiimsiibr. The. name and address of the sender arc 
required in addition to any designation he. may desire to 
be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, 
each should b • on a separate piece of paper , and not more 
than three qu-ries should be sent at a time. Correspon¬ 
dents should bear in mind that, as Gardening has to be. 
sent to press some time in advance, of date, queries cannot 
always be replied to in the issue immediately following 
the receipt of their communication. We do not reply to 
queries by post. 

Naming flowers, shrubs, etc.— Fair examples 
of each subject — i.e , leaves and shoots as icell as flowers 
and fruit—if to lw had, must be sent. When more 
than one plant is sent each should be numbered. If 
these rules arc not complied with subjects cannot be 
named correctly. 

Naming fruit. — The differences between varieties 
of fends are in many eases so trifling that it. is necessary 
that three example's shoicing the range of form of each 
kind should be sent. Not more than four varieties at a 
time should be sent. 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

Rose unhealthy (John P. Lair).—This lias been 
at lin ked by thrips, while there are nl.-o t races of 
red-spider. Syringe or spray with para Min emulsion 
or Quassia extract and soft soup. Give the roots a 
good soaking of water, amt mulch well with rotten 
manure. 2. Sec reply to " A. P." ami " Tent 
Lodge,” in our issue of July 13th, p 260. 3. Use the 
same remedies as recommended for No. 1. 

Roses for pillars (O'. It. ft.). —You should try the 
following: — Summer flowering: Blush Kainbler, 
Elect ra, Bennett’s Seedling, and Blairii No. 2. 
Summer and autumn blooming: Alistcr Stella Gray, 
Dorothy Perkins, Lady Wateilow, Mme. Jules Clraver- 
eaux. and Bouquet d’Or. When sending further 
queries, please read our rules as to putting such on 
separate pieces of paper, writing on one side of the 
paper only. 

Rose failing (IV. It. ft ). The only thing we 
can recommend is replanting in the autumn, first 
having prepared a place for the Rose by taking out a 
hole 3 feet wide and as deep, putting in good 
drainage and tilling with good loam to which have 
been added some rotten manure and bone-meal. The 
plant is evidently very weak, and you give us no in¬ 
formation as to w here it is growing or how long it has 
been planted. 

A plague of ants ((’. D. Williamson ).—The only 
way is to find out their nests, and into these to pour 
boiling water. Chloride of lime laid about their nests 
is said to drive them away. They may also he 
trapped with pieces of sponge soaked with treacle, or 
bones which have a small amount of meat on them. 
The sponges ami bones should have a piece of string 
t ied to them, so that they can be easily lifted and 
dipped iuto boiling water. 

Increasing Oloire de Lorraine Begonia (Per 
plexcd).- Cut down the plants immediately flowering 
is over to below where the first blooms were pro¬ 
duced. In a short time young shoots will be pushed 
out from the base of the plaiit % and when these are 
from 11 inches to 2 inches long they make the best 
of cuttings. Cut them oil close to the main stem, 
and dibble them into well drained pots of sandy soil, 
water through a tine rose, and stand in a close pro 
pagating ease in the stove. The cuttings will soon 
root, when they should be potted off singly into small 
pots. 

Pruning a Banksian Rose (Mrs. Mason ).-The 
best time to prune is directly after flowering, merely 
removing old and worn-out wood. The spray or small, 
twiggy wood should be preserved, as this usually 
produces the most bloom. Where plants are of .i 
good ago and have been neglected, a considerable 
reduction of the number of growths should be made, 
so that light and air can penetrate, and thus ripen 
the wood. Above all things, retain the young growths 
in their entirety, excepting, of course, any that are 
produced late in the year, and are thus soft and 
pithy. Such should always be cut clean out. 

Aphides on Marguerites (Spanku). -Your Mar¬ 
guerites have been gftSckedby aphidti, but 1 doubt 
if they were the caise ofltfife tr/Tffese plants 
are often Infested b^anJoLfhe loolLfJemng aphides, 


and I should think that yours were suffering from 
their attacks. The soft soap and paraffin must have 
killed the aphides which were on the flowers or 
leaves, for, to judge by the look of the latter, you 
used the suray too strong. 1 should examine the 
roots of the plants, and if you llud some small, 
white, oval insects, about the eighth of an Inch in 
length, they are almost certain to be aphides.— 
G. S. S. 

Striking Roses in water IE. Harris). - Take the 

cuttings whenever you can get a suitable shoot, about 
6 inches long, a straight one without branches. It 
should he firm, not too sappy, but still green. Tear 
it olf at a joint, so getting a little of the old bark 
away with it. Then place several in glass preserve 
jars filled with clean water, i’lncc the jars on the 
greenhouse shelf, filling up as the water evaporates, 
ami occasionally changing it. When the callus has 
formed the cuttings may be potted, as if you wait 
until the roots are formed they are so brittle that, 
unless the greatest care is exercised, they will be 
broken off. 

Weed in pond (North Oxford ).—Wc regret being 
unable to recommend you anything which would kill 
the wood in your pond without injuring the Water 
Lilies, etc. Were it not for the latter fact, it could 
be got rid of quickly enough. Wc sympathise with you 
in your difficulty as we are similarly placed in regard 
to a pond which has never before been infested with 
this weed. However, by dragging with cords and 
fishing up the masses of weed with wooden rakes 
from a boat, we have, at length, nearly mastered it, 
or so much s<» that it takes but a short time each 
day now to free the surface of any stray patches 
which may appear. We, therefore, advise you to per¬ 
severe with your present tactics, believing that you 
will thereby gradually get rid of the weed. 

TREES AND SHRUBS. 

Hydrangeas If the Hydrangeas are ill vigorous 
health, you may dissolve 1 oz. of sulphate of iron in 
a gallon of water, and give the roots as much as will 
thoroughly moisten tin soil every other dnv. If the 
plants are not strong, J oz. of the iron sulphate per 
gallon of water will suffice. Be careful not to wet the 
foliage with the solution, and sec that the sulphate 
is pure. Eor this reason wc should advise you to 
purchase it from a chemist, who would let you have 
it at a cheap rate. Another season you may sprinkle 
a little of the powder on the surface about the time 
the plants commence to make growth, and water it 
in. This would be in addition to supplying the iron 
in solution. By these means you should obtain the 
blue colour you desire. 

FRUIT. 

Currant bushes, aphides on (Bueklnml).- Your 
Currant-bushes have been attacked by aphides. See¬ 
ing the fruit is ripe, you can do nothing; but imme¬ 
diately the fruit is cleared thoroughly syringe the 
trees with Quassia extract and soft soap. Use the 
extract from 6 oz. of Quassia chips, 4 oz. of soft 
soap, well mixed, and added to 5 gallons of water. 

Increasing Black Currants (O. 6V). — The 
cuttings should not be less than 1 foot in length. 
Except to cut them level and shorten back the points, 
if unduly long, no further preparation is necessary. 
The cuttings may be put in as soon as the leaves 
fall. When putting them in have good garden-soil,and 
chop down furrows vertically 4 inches deep, standing 
the cuttings into these 9 inches apart, with 1 foot 
between the lines. Make them firm by treading. In 
twelve months these cuttings ought- to be well rooted, 
and may be planted in their permanent position. The 
same treatment answers for Red and While Currants 
and Gooseberries, only in their case remove all the 
buds with the exception of the top four or five. The 
Black Currants should have sill the buds left, as these 
help to produce successional suckers. 

VEGETABLES 

Blanching Cardoons (Jl/r*. A. Campbell ).—The 
seeds must be sown in May, either in the trenches 
prepared for them or in pets, to be afterwards 
planted when of suitable size and strength. A 
trench prepared on similar lines as for Celery is 
needful, the plants having a space of 2| feet allowed 
between them, and a distance of 31 feet to 4 feet 
is necessary between the trenches for earthing-up in 
autumn. Earthing up should not be done until 
growth is finished, previous to which tin* leaves and 
stems must be neatly bound up with hay-hands to 
exclude air and prevent the soil getting in among 
the leaves and stems. Six weeks or more must be 
allowed for blanching, and then they must be lifted 
and stored in a cool yet frost proof building, or, at 
any rate, a place where they can be kept free from 
frost for winter use. A cool cellar is a very good 
place, and here they may be stood with a ball of 
roots attached, and if not too damp the process of 
blanching continues. Being tender, they must be 
lifted when frosty weather threatens. 

Blanching Chicory —Forcing of the roots is an 
easy matter. When the leaves have decayed, a 
number of roots should be taken up and laid in soil 
in some cold shed or other structure where they will 
not be frozen, and from this store they can be re¬ 
moved in batches for forcing as wanted. This is 
merely a precaution in ease of severe frost setting in 
and preventing them being lifted from the beds, 
where the main lot should be allowed to remain. 
The quantity of roots lo be forced at a time will 
depend upon the demand for the salad. For a small 
family as many roots us can bo put into a 12-inch 
pot will be sufficient at one time. Whether the roots 
are forced in a bed, or in pots or boxes, they should 
be buried up to within nil inch of their crowns in 
light soil of Hny kind, watered, and placed in a 
temperature of from 50 degs. to 60 degs., and be 
kept In the dark. If a dark shed or cellar be not 
available, the crowns may be covered with an in¬ 
verted flower pot or box, which will do quite ns well. 
In this way Chicory is sometimes forced in a kitchen. 
The leaves, which soon push out, should be cut 
when they are young and tender, and always just 


before they arc required for salad, for which pur¬ 
pose they are prepared like Lettuce or Endive. The 
roots will push out leaves u second, and even a third, 
time after being cut, but the growth is weaker every 
time, and the better plan will he to introduce a 
succession of fresh roots before the supply becomes 
exhausted. See also article and illustrations in our 
issue of May 26th, 1906. a copy of which cun be had 
of the publisher, post free, for lid. 

SHORT REPLIES. 

Castle Douglas. I, Yes, unless the runners have 
been taken from what are known as barren plants. 

2, You get fttrongcr runners by setting aside a 

number of plants, picking off all the flowers, and 
layering from thene. 3, The first layer is always the 
strongest. Hce article on “ Making new Straw licrry 
plantations,” in our issue of July 13th, p. 247.- 

Crouch. — Your Grapes are what is known as 
"seahled.” Sec reply to Ethel \V. Graham, iu our 
issue of June 29th, p. 232. Wc hope to deal further 

with this trouble in an early issue.- A. E. II. 

The failure is evidently due t-o poorness of soil. 
From the appearance of the Clarkia plant- you send, 

the seeds have been sown too thickly.- Enquirer.— 

1. In the early spring. 2, Plant early in the autumn, 
or if this is not possible, then early in the spring. 

3, Kindly send some particulars as to your mode of 
culture, as without such it is impossible to suggest 

any reason for the failure.- Mrs. It. H. 7'.—Set- 

reply to your queries in our issue of June 15th, p. 
201, under the initials “ 1). T.” Cut the Broom 

down immediately after flowering.- Margo.— Yes, 

you may lift the Violets as you suggest, but they 
will need very careful treatment. Be careful to have 
good balls of soil when you lift. If the ground is 
dry give them a good soaking on the evening pre¬ 
vious to moving them, well watering them in when 
you put them into the frame. F. K. H. We have 
found that, iu the end, one can buy weed-killer more 
cheaply than it- can he made at- home. //. K. S.~ 
Yes, iu your district we think you could safely stand 
them outdoors for a week or two. You will have 
to attend to the watering, and never allow them t«> 

get in the least dry.- G. A. Longden .—Without 

seeing the place and the hedge and tries to which 
you refer, it is very difficult to advise. In such case, 
we think, it would be far better to ask the advice of 
some practical man in your neighbourhood.— 

D. Gregory. J, We know of no book on the cul¬ 
ture of the winter Carnation. 2, The Secretary of 
the National Carnation Society is Mr. T. K. llenweod. 
16, Ilamilton-rd.. Reading. — Guernsey. — The seed 
saved from Melons sent to table will germinate 
freely. You cannot tell the fertile seed from the 
infertile, ami you must bear in mind that Melons 
have to be artificially fertilised. Newly saved seeds, 
of course, always germinate the most freely, although 
we have kepi Melon-seeds for some years and 
had no difficulty iu raising them.— - W. IS .—We 
should think Hobday's "Villa Gardening” would 
answer your purpose. This can be bad from this 

office.- Brackens. -You would do well to ask some 

gardener in the neighbourhood to look at your Figs. 
It is quite impossible to advise you from seeing two 

leaves only.- Mary G Gordon.—The Potato-stems 

you send have been undoubtedly badly attacked by 
the Potato disease. .1 Subscriber. Without seeing 
the Melon-plant it is somewhat difficult to account 
for it dying, bub we should imagine that it has 
been attacked by gangrene round the collar of the 
plant. This you can decide for yourself. Are you 
sure that the watering has been carefully attended 
to? 


NAMES Or PLANTS AND FRUITS. 

Names of plants— Iter. TV. P. Carmody.- 1, 
Cnlutea cruciita: 2, Probably Colutca arboreacens, 
but cannot be sure without flowers; 3. Juglans regia 
(Walnut). — - Lady Mara Cory.— Hieracium aurantia- 

cum.—- C. J. Curtis.— Medieago faleata.- J. Arkle. 

— 1, Vida sylvatica; 2, Symphytum officinale; 3, 

Verhanruni Thapsus.- J. II .—Salvia sylvestris 

probably, should like to know something of the 
height to which the plant grows. The two leaves 
you send are Fig-leaves. Sidmouth. Zephyranthes 

Treat iae.-./. Crook.— V it is Coignetiae, we think. 

- M. S. Barbour. — I. The Frog Orchid (iiabenarU 

virdis); 2, Orchis lutifolia var. incarnata; 3. O. 

eonopsea.- Erin. 1. Pliiladelphus gratidiflorus; 2, 

Pliiladelphus Lcwisi: 3. Goat's Rue (Galcga offi¬ 
cinalis); 4, Pliiladelphus purpureo - maeulntus.— - 
Itaennsthorpe. The Green Ilabenaria or Frog Orchis 
(Habonaria viridis).— -Hubert Greening.— The Tulip- 
tree (Liriodendron tulipiferum). It is also called the 
Saddle-tree from the resemblance or the leaves to a 

saddle.-I'rrn. — 1. Variegated Rock Cress (A raids 

lucida variegata); 2. Cannot name from a single leaf 
only. Mob. 1, Uscmanthus natalensis; 2, The 

Throat wort (Trachelium crrruleuin).- Alexr. Gillr <• 

pie. —Berheris duleis.— J 8 .—Limnanthes Doiiglasi. 

- I)r. A. M. A.—The Chickweed plant you mention 

is a Stellaria, the others being Vicia sp. and 
Dianthus drltoidcs. As to the other, we can form 
no idea ns to the name. We must have fresh speci¬ 
mens, with a number affixed to each for reference to 
be aide to name correctly. As to your other ques¬ 
tion, the Post Office authorities can give you the 

information.- It. Symms. — Please send n piece of 

the plant, and then we can name, and also advise 

as to cultivation.- A. Timms.—), Achillea ptarnifra 

fl.-p|.; 2, Malvn inoschata: 3, Veronica apieata.- 
Amateur.—l, Deulzia crenata fl .-pi.; 2, Lysimuchia 
vulgaris.__ 


Readers on holiday.— During the holiday season 
readers who And any difficulty in obtaining Gardening 
I llcstratro from the local newsagent or bookstall may 
have a copy posted regularly for a few weeks or longer by 
sending a remittance at. the rate of lid a copy *o the 
Publisher, Gardening Illtstrateu, 17, Furnival-street, 
Holborn. London, E,Ck, a a ars A \ hi 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


No. 1,483. —VoL. XXIX. Founded by W. Robinson, Author qf "The English Flower Garden AUGUST 10, 1907. 


INDEX. 


Abelia triflora .. 

310 

Chrysanthemums—some 


Garden work 

314 1 Pansies, Tufted, ray less 




Angelonia salicarimfolia 


of the earliest varie- 


Good King Henry 

316 | versus rayed .. 

312 


316 

(syn. A. grandiflora) . 

307 

ties to flower .. 

312 

Grapes mildewed 

316 1 Pea, Sweet, Gladys 


Rose Betty 

306 

Apple-trees, leaves of, 


Clematises, propagating 

316 

Grapes shanking 

303 Cn win. 

313 


306 

uuhealthy 

308 

Co baa ecandens in the 


Griselinia littoralis 

303 Pea, Sweet, the nearest 




Budrlleia globosa, prun- 


open, keeping .. 

313 

Gypsophila elegans 

316 | approach to a primrose 

311 

de Miilniaison .. 

306 

ing . 

316 

Cold-frames 

314 

Honesty seed, sowing .. 

313 | Peaches, stone-splitting 



305 

Bulbs, spring flowering 

307 

Conservatory 

314 

Inearv idea in the flower 

1 in . . 

304 



Calceolaria Veitch» 


Currants, Black .. 

301 

garden,group of 

311 I Peas, Sweet 

312 


305 

Hardy Hybrid.. 

oil 

Cypress, Lawsons, cut- 


Ladys Bower (Clematis 

Teas, Sweet, raising now 




Carnations and Pinks 


ting down hedge of .. 

316 

V iticelln), the lied- 

1 varieties of 

310 

Lon (H.T.) 

306 

• for vases. 

313 

Endives. 

314 

flowert d. 

311 PentstemoTiR, three 




Carnations diseased 

311 

Kryngium Olirerianum 

312 

Lavatera trinicstris 

312 | good . 

310 

(HP.). 

306 

Catauam-hu e«erulea, 


Eucharis, growing 

333 

Law and custom 

315 ' Perennials, sowing seed 



305 

gathering and pro- 


Figs, restricting the 


Lilies, notes on .. 

310 of. 

312 

Rose White Baroness .. 

305 

serving. 

312 

roots of. 

303 

Magnolia lwvro at the 

! Plants for the early 




Caustic alkali solution, 


Fruit . 

303 

bottom. 

310 autumn. 

307 


305 

using . 

301 

Fruit crop iii the West, 


Nitrate of soda as man- 

Plants, propagating 




Chrysanthemums 

312 

the . 

303 

ure 

316 bedding.. 

314 

antha, forcing.. 

31 Ml 

Chrysanthemums, deco- 


Fruit garden 

314 

Orchard-house .. 

314 Plants, simple vase 

310 


306 

retire display of 

312 

Garden diary, extracts 


Outdoor garden .. 

314 Poppies, Shirley.. 

312 

Roses for new bed 

316 

Chrysanthemums, feed- 


from a. 

315 

Outdoor plant i .. 

310 1 Raspberries in poor eon- 


Roses for west wall 

305 


312 

Garden, kitchen, notes 


Pansies, Tufted, picking 

dition. 

301 


308 

Chrysanthemums in 3- 


for autumn 

314 

off spent blossoms of 

Rhododendrons—a long 




inch pots 

316 

Garden pests and friends 

308 

the . 

311 season . 

310 

planting. 

306 


Roses, pruning forced.. 316 
Rose*, two cbamiing 
button-hole 306 

Sauromatuui guttatum 
in the open .. .. 312 

Shrubberies, ou tiiiics to 309 
Slugs, destroying .. 308 
Soaking of water, a — 
what is it? .. 304 

Solan urn Wendlandi .. 308 
Stocks, grubs killing 30S 

Stove .314 

Stuartia rirginica .. 309 
Tamarisk in bloom, the 309 
Tomatoes, defoliating.. 313 
Tomatoes for winter .. 313 
Tomatoes under glass .. 314 
Trees and shrubs .. 309 
Tulip-true (Liriodcu- 
dron tulipifcruiu), the 310 
Vegetable garden .. 313 
Vegetables .. .. 313 

Vinery, early .. 314 

Weeks work, the 
coming.313 


FRUIT. 


RESTRICTING THE ROOTS OK FIGS. 
VERY often Figs, when planted out under 
glass, take on a gross and unfruitful growth, 
especially during the first few years after 
planting or until they come into bearing. 
This is through the borders being too deep 
and rich, and also through the root run not 
being sufficiently limited. Where the root¬ 
ing medium is so arranged as to allow this un¬ 
controlled growth, it necessitates a regular 
system of root-pruning, which does not, al¬ 
ways have the desired effect of creating 
fruitful growth. True enough, whore there 
is head room to allow of a free extension of 
growth, the trees come sooner into bearing 
than they otherwise would do, and many Fig- 
trees which have always been provided with 
an uncontrolled root-run could, no doubt, be 
pointed out which carry fine crops annually. 
These observations do not refer to those 
large, old trees of which there are some 
about, and which are as fruitful as it is pos¬ 
sible for them to be, and which neither re¬ 
quire, nor do they have, any root-pruning to 
cause them to be so, and yet the roots are 
uncontrolled. In these cases the soil they are 
growing in is of the most suitable description, 
and overlying either chalk, gravel, or lime. 

Fig-trees, in the majority of cases, are 
grown in narrow and low houses, and the 
growth in these is often so rank that very 
little fruit, if any, is produced, and this 
simply through planting the trees out in rich 
and deep borders with very little, if any, re¬ 
striction. To overcome this difficulty, and 
knowing the results which would accrue from 


not restricting the rooting space, as the struc¬ 
ture in itself is not large, the border, in my 
own case, previous to planting, was formed 
into partitions, each tree being confined to a 
space of 0 feet by 3 feet, the border being 
30 inches in depth, the bottom ns well as 
Rides being of brickwork. The rooting space 
being thus restricted, the growth made is 
not at all gross, and at the same time fruitful. 
The growth made annually is extremely short- 
jointed and fruitful; consequently the trees 
require but. little stopping, the annual growth 
(after the first vigour of planting has passed) 
rarely exceeding 8 inches or 9 inches. 

By being restricted at the roots, of course 
more attention is needed as to watering. 
Feeding with liquid manure must take place 
in the height of the growing season, for al¬ 
though a large-rooting medium tends to gross¬ 
ness. yet when confined no other fruit-tree 
will take assistance so freely or b? so bene¬ 
fited by it as the Fig. Nor must rich manu- 
rial top dressings be neglected. In any case, 
where the Fig trees are growing much too 
freely through a too liberal root-run and in¬ 
sufficient surface for training, the above 
method of restriction cauj<j be easily adopted. 

Digitized by 



GRAPES SHANKING. 

I have sent you a hunrh of Grape*. Will you In* 
good enough to tell me what is the matter with 
them, and whnb is the cause of it, and what I had 
better do with them? Some bunches are worse than i 
others. In some bunches there arc only a few bad 
berries, in others a good many. — Hilsham. 

[The shanking of Grapes has puzzled physio¬ 
logists as well as our most experienced prac¬ 
tical Grape growers ever since Vine culture 
was first attempted in this country, especi¬ 
ally under glass. In my own experience, I 
have found that Graj>es never show aigns of 
shanking until after the bt*rri«s have stoned, 
and then when subject to this disease all 
appears satisfactory until colouring indicates 
the change from the acid to the saccharine 
state. When this dreaded stage is reached 
the practical eye is ever on the alert for a 
few tiny black spots round the shank, a thin 
limpness of the stalk, and a stationary condi¬ 
tion of tli * berries, both as regards size and 
colour. Theoe berries never recover, but 
shrink rapidly to the shrivelled vinegar con¬ 
dition. whilst the remainder of the bunch, 
and other bunches in their entirety on the 
same Vine, will attain the greatest perfec¬ 
tion. Some varieties, notably the old Fron- 
tignan, are more subject than others to 
shanking, and, what at first appears strange, 
Vines started in midwinter never produce a 
shanked berry, whilst similar varieties in bor¬ 
ders exactly alike, but started in the spring, 
are badly affected by the disease. The in¬ 
ternal treatment in each case being all that 
the most fastidious grower can wish, the 
cause of the mischief, it is quite evident, lies 
principally, but not entirely, in the misman¬ 
agement of the roots. I use this term in a 
qualified form, as 1 believe it is quite pos¬ 
sible, where the roots have the run of the 
best border ever made, not only to produce 
shanking, but to ruin the crop by withhold 
ing water, by over cropping, or by destroying 
the best foliage when the Vines are in full 
growth. 

The conditions, however, under which 
shanking is most generally met with are too 
heavy cropping that i*, allowing the Vines 
to carry a weight of fruit altogether out of 
proportion to the spread of leaves, whilst the 
roots, white and fleshy, like those of the 
Hyacinth, are feeding in fat borders; it may 
not b'j too damp, but most certainly too wet 
and cold. If Vines thus situated were started 
on New Year’s Day, moderately forced, and 
lightly cropped, it is more than probable the 
berries would not shank to any serious extent, 
perhaps not at all ; but allow them to break 
naturally, give them plenty of rich liquid 
throughout the summer, keep these quill-like 
roots growing well into the autumn, and, nl 
though the foliage may be dense, green, and 
plentiful, some berrio,s in every bunch will 
shank. This shanking is easily accounted for 
In the following way : The leaves, ns autumn 
comes on, cense to act, and in due course fall, 
but the roots started late die back, a« they are 
far from ripe. The Vines, nevertheless, con¬ 
tain a certain quantity of etored-up sap. 
wjjjcji ke^ps them through the early stages in 


the following spring; but so soon as this is 
exhausted by the first flush and setting of the 
fruit a check follows, as they have no feeders 
to maintain the supply, the few they made in 
the preceding year being paralysed or dead. 
Now, when a plant through any cause loses its 
roots, all gardeners know that it cannot re¬ 
new them without the aid of leaves ; conse¬ 
quently the formation of these has scarcely 
begun when the berries are passing the ston¬ 
ing process; and although, ns I have just 
stated, the disease does not then develop, it 
is owing to the pinch at this most trying 
of all stages that the foundation of shanking 
is laid. The same Vines, on the oilier hand, 
started in January, have the whole summer 
in which to ripen their roots. These keep 
fresh and sound, and by the time the stored 
up sup is exhausted they are again not only 
in full work, but capable of replenishing the 
cells before the Vines feel the check. 

When Grapes shank, the owner should first 
ascertain that the Vines are not over¬ 
cropped, that the foliage is clean, healthy, 
and plentiful, that the roots arc liberally sup¬ 
plied with water and the house properly man¬ 
aged. Finding these points satisfactory, as 
most frequently he will, lie must seek the 
prime cause of this evil in the borders, and, 
although possibly only recently lifted, bis 
only and never-failing remedy will be found 
in lifting and relaying again. The roots 
formed in n well-drained porous border of 
this kind will be small, numerous, and so 
active that they will permeate the whole mass. 
These hungry mouths, capable of supplying 
any amount of wholesome food, it is hardly 
necessary to say, will ripen before the cold 
autumn rains set- in, and in this condition 
they will be well up to, if not actually in ad¬ 
vance of, their important work in the follow- 
iiig spring.] 


THE FRUIT CROP IN THE WEST. 
Now, at the middle of July, the prospect of 
the fruil crop can be stated pretty accurately. 
During the past twenty years l do not remem¬ 
ber such a late spring. This applies to the 
flowering of bulbs, such as Snowdrops, Daffo¬ 
dils, etc., which were from two to three weeks 
later than their average during these years. 
Pears and Plums were about the same, but 
with a few warm days Apples were consider 
ably benefited. Right on from the end of the 
year I noticed how restful the fruit-buds 
were, giving the impression of their being 
hard and well ripened. No doubt this arose 
from the fine season of 1906. When the trees 
came into bloom nil the organs appeared 
strong, and the flowers had abundance of 
pollen. Many trees that, gave a heavy crop 
last year are bearing well again this year. 
This applies to many kinds of Pears and 
Apples, especially early ripening kinds. 
Plums, such as Early Prolific, Sultan. Jeffer¬ 
son's, Kirke’s, etc., on walls have had to Ihj 
thinned freely, while Golden Drop and other 
late kindszhave irerop. Many kinds of Pears 
are thin, “while others are ‘bearing treelv. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 
















30 1 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED, 


August 10, 1907 


Marie Louise, Winter Nelis, Easter Beurre, 
etc., on west wall promise well. Some kinds 
on bush trees are almost barren. On walls I 
noticed some trees, growing side by side and 
flowering at different periods, have a crop, 
while others arc barren. Apricots generally 
do well with me. In eighteen years I have 
had only one failure. Although the trees 
suffer much from branch dying, still, by fre¬ 
quently planting young trees I can keep the 
walls full. I have three or four trees that 
are twenty years old. When in bloom the 
trees were a grand sight. The blooms set so 
freely that as many as thirty fruits were 
counted on a foot of grow th. 

Cherries were a mass of bloom. I grow 
both Morellos and sweet kinds on north walls. 
White Hearts are quite a success in this posi¬ 
tion ; although suffering from cracking from 
rain and moisture, the fruit is clean. The 
same holds good with Morellos. Seldom has 
there been so much black-fly. Strawberries 
are not equal to past years; the plants 
suffered during the autumn from lack of mois¬ 
ture. and tliw had its effect on the present 
year’s crop. In consequence, my plants had 
not half the bloom on them, and two neigh¬ 
bouring gardeners had the same experience. 
In some gardens the loss from rot is enor¬ 
mous. One man told me two-thirds of hie 
crop had gone in this way. Thanks to using 
coarse straw, raising the fruit well up, I 
have not had much loss. Slugs are my 
greatest enemy. I was a fortnight later than 
usual in gathering. Gooseberries are a much 
lighter crop this year, and the drought in 
autumn accounts for this, bringing with it the 
red-spider, which had a nail effect on 
the bushes. Early in spring I gave them a 
good surface dressing of pig manure. This 
has promoted a strong, clean growth on all 
except old bushes. Caterpillars have not 
troubled me. When I first saw them, all 
affected bushes were syringed twice with a 
wash, which soon cleared them. The berries 
will be large. Currants of all sorts had to be 
washed with an insecticide, and the crops are 
good. Raspberries are good in most gardens. 
Seldom has there been so little warmth all 
through the season, and now, well into July, 
we have hod no hot days, still, most crops 
look healthy. J. Crook. 

Fordc Abbey. 


STONE SPLITTING IN PEACHES. 

I should be Rind if you would Rive me your advice 
about a Peach, Waterloo, which is a young tree, look¬ 
ing perfectly healthy, not too vigorous. The fruit 
looks quite right until just before it is ripe, when the 
skin cracks just at the eye, and iti a very short time 
it begins to decay there. The tree is on south aspect, 
and there is lime in the soil. It has been watered.— 
lH’NKERRY. 

[From the description you give, without 
seeing the fruit, we should say that the 
Peaches you refer to will, on examination, 
bo found to have split stones. Some kinds 
of Peaches are more addicted to stone-split- 
ting than others, though it happens sometimes 
in a variety not commonly given to that fail¬ 
ing. There is no particular reason for 
splitting of the stone, or it would be a more 
easy matter to advise so as to prevent a re¬ 
currence. To imperfect fertilisation of the 
flowers may be traced the origin of some 
such cases, and where this is so, there is no 
remedy that can be applied benefiting tlie pre¬ 
sent crop. The health or vigour of the tree it¬ 
self affords no solution of the difficulty, lie- 
cause stone-splitting is not an outcome of in¬ 
different health ; indeed, the reverse is more 
likely to be the case. When Peaches are 
flowering, it is never safe or advisable to trust 
to chance in the setting, for, without being 
fertilised with their own pollen or from other 
flowers by the aid of a camel's hair pencil, 
rabbit’s tail, or something of a similar dia¬ 
meter, the fruit may swell away for a while, 
even to ripening, and then drop from prema¬ 
ture softening, accelerated bv the unsound 
stone. In this condition the fruit sometimes 
falls and appears ripe, but an examination 
shows that it is soft only on one side, th<-* 
other being congested and hard, quite unfit 
for dessert. It is among the early sorts, as 
in your case, that these troubles occur most 
frequently. 

In over-rich borders some Peaches drop 
when nearing the/ripening P9 r Vrl ^ 

they Remain until feyi fejT he they 


invariably ripen some time before the re¬ 
mainder of the crop is ready, which the ex¬ 
pert grower at once recognises as a symptom 
of stone-splitting. Freshly slaked lime ap¬ 
plied in quantity sufficient to whiten the 
surface is a good remedy in such cases, giving 
it once or twice during the growing season. 
With trees that are over-luxuriant, root- 
pruning and lifting ami placing the roots 
nearer the surface correct more than the 
one evil, bringing with it the lessened ten 
dcncies to splitting of tlie stone. Overhead 
shade from other trees hinders proper ripen¬ 
ing of the wood, and without this neither 
perfect setting nor stoning can be assured. 
Extremes of root moisture or drought arc 
both inimical to the progress of the tree's 
growth in summer, and should be, as far as 
possible, avoided, as also should strong doses 
of animal or artificial manure, because they 
stimulate an excess of vigour which is almost 
undesirable. With a comparatively new bor¬ 
der and healthy trees, clear water is all-suffi¬ 
cient; it is for older trees, with borders 
fully occupied with roots, and carrying heavy 
loads, that feeding is necessary. Lime, how¬ 
ever, may he given in small quantity with 
advantage to Peaches, as this assists the 
formation of the seed-shell or stone. Un¬ 
ripened wood caused from overhead shade, 
imperfect fertilisation of the flowers, or an 
absence of lime in sufficient quantity may, 
however, give the clue to the failure com¬ 
plained of. and for two of them, at any rate, 
steps may be immediately taken to correct it 
for another year. Carefully lifting the trees 
and replanting will correct grossness, the 
autumn, when the leaves begin to fall, being 
the most suitable time. A mistake that is 
often made is neglecting the watering of the 
borders and syringing of the trees after tin* 
crop is cleared.] 


NOTES AND h'EFHES. 

Raspberries in poor condition Can you tell 
me why my Raspberries are like enclosed? No fruit 
or only two or three seeds seem to be forming. The 
plants have had liquid-manure and been mulched. 
The leaves arc also turning yellow.— Iit'SIlFORD. 

[If the sprays you send fairly represent the 
condition of the remainder of your Rasp¬ 
berry-canes, wo should imagine them to Ik* 
either in a semi-starved or exhausted condi¬ 
tion. If in the latter condition, the best 
thing will be to root them out. and make a 
new plantation on another site, selecting 
cither Norwich Wonder or Superlative, ns 
both of these would do well on your soil. The 
fact of the fruits being so imperfectly set 
was, no doubt, due to the inclement weather 
during the time they were in flower, but, 
apart- from this, the sprays &re very weak, 
and denote a debilitated condition of the 
roots, which may arise from one or other 
of the causes named above. Therefore, if the 
roots are in need of stimulants, and the plan¬ 
tation is not worn out, give them at once 
liberal supplies of liquid-manure, and also 
place a good mulch of farmyard-manure be¬ 
tween the rows, in order to encourage the 
production of as strong canes as you can for 
another season. Cutting out all tho old 
bearing canes at once will also serve to 
strengthen the current years growth. On 
such a soil as we know yours to be. Rasp¬ 
berries require very liberal feeding to main¬ 
tain them in a vigorous bearing condition.] 

A soaking of water what is it? In 
watering it is the common practice to pour 
it close to the stem of the plant. This may 
be right enough in the case, of young plants, 
hut such a watering is not of much value to 
large specimens. If a Peach or Apricot in a 
bearing condition against a wall requires 
water (and they certainly do require more 
moisture than they get in most gardens), first 
form a ba6in 4 feet from the stem all round, 
by drawing soil from the border with a hoe 
into a ridge. On sloping borders this is 
especially necessary, if the water is to be re¬ 
tained long enough to souk into a dry soil. 
Then flood the 6pace so enclosed until the 
6 oil for 2 feet down has been moistened, and 
add a mulch of manure or short Grass. To 
be really serviceable a large tree, carrying 
a load of fruit, should have from 60 to 100 
gallons given to it at once, and then with 
the mulch, to check evaporation, the mois¬ 
ture will remain among the roots for a long 


time, and the tree will show its gratitude 
by its improved appearance and the rapid 
manner in which the fruits will gain in size. 
Liquid-manure will be a great help to many 
struggling trees in dry weather, and might be 
given a few* days after the first soaking of 
water, when it would more readily penetrate 
to the extremities of the roots following the 
trail opened up by the first stream. — E. 

Using caustic alkali solution. In reply 
to “Red House” (July 27th, page 276), I may 
say that I have been a user of caustic alkali 
solution since its first introduction as a win¬ 
ter wash for fruit-trees, and have never heard 
of nor seen any harm whatever result from 
its employment. As to how such an errone¬ 
ous impression got abroad I am at a loss to 
understand, because if the few simple pre¬ 
cautions given when recommending 11 1 e wash 
to Ixj used, such as covering the hands with 
leather or India-rubber gloves (the latter be¬ 
ing the more economical where there is much 
spraying to be done), and not alLowing the 
spray to be blown into the face, arc observed, 
it is impossible for anything of a harmful 
nature to occur. It certainly has a rather 
damaging effect on clothes, but here, again, 
who would wear good clothes when the advice 
to put on old ones for the occasion is given, 
and the same with regard to hats or caps, 
as the case may be? I have had a man spray¬ 
ing for days together before now, whose out¬ 
fit consisted of an old hat and coat, a sack 
tied round the waist, to serve as an apron 
and protect the trouser-legs, also gloves for 
the hands, and have never had any complaint. 
The greatest danger lies in dissolving the 
chemicals particularly the caustic soda, 
which boils up when the hot water is poured 
over it but all this is done away with, for 
the ingredients for making the wash with are 
now sold ready mixed, so that there is nothing 
to do bevond dissolving and mixing them ac¬ 
cording to directions, which, it may be added, 
is a perfectly harmless proceeding. The 
wash is best applied in the foriii of a spray, 
became* it being of such a caustic nature it 
is only necessary to well wet the stems, 
branches, and voting wood with it, when it is 
instantly effective. To apply it in the same 
manner ns an ordinary wash or insecticide 
would entail much loss. Iienr:* the reason for 
employing a sprayer for the purpose. A 
proper sprayer can Ik* fitted to an ordinary 
Kvring'*. but it is a difficult, matter to reach 
the topmost branches of trees of ordinary 
height with the latter, and there is also a 
liability of some of the wash running down 
the arms unless great care is exercised. The 
best method is to employ a garden engine 
and attach a 10-foot or 12-foot length of 
India-rubber hose to it. if the trees to be 
operated on aie pyramids or bushes in the 
open garden, or arc trained against walls. 
To the end of the hose a length of galvanised 
4 -inch tubing should be attached, some 6 feet 
to 9 feet in length, aceording to the height 
of trees. On the end of the tube the sprayer, 
which may he had of anv horticultural sun- 
driesman, should be fitted, when the appara¬ 
tus is complete, and is equal in efficiency to 
the very best sold for garden purposes. Sonm 
prefer a knapsack pump. but. having used 
both, the former is by far the more service¬ 
able. A boy is quite able to work the pump, 
and. given calm weather, a great many trees 
can be sprayed in a day. A. W. 

Black Currants.-lt has been very in¬ 
teresting to me during the work of judging 
cottage gardens in Surrey this season in note 
what splendid crops of Blnek Currants I have 
seen in every direction. Where such varie¬ 
ties as Boskoop Giant, and Baldwin are 
grown, and some advanced cottagers have 
them, the berries have been wonderfully fine. 
But even on quite old and somewhat 
neglected bushes the fruit, if less fine, lias 
been very abundant. In most of these cases 
the bushes get. little care or pruning, and one 
could wish to see more of such -attention. 
Still, when it is remembered how widespread 
have been reports as to the depredations of 
the Currant mite, it is a matter for surprise 
as for congratulation that Black Currants 
should be so plentiful and good. Most cer¬ 
tainly in the manv| cottage gardens and on 
allotments into which I have been in diverse 
parts of Surrey, the mite seems not to be 
much in evidence.—A. D. 

ANA-C HA : 


■J 




August 10, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


305 



the trees become well established if carefully 
plunged and looked after. They need a nice 
sunny spot outdoors, and not crowded, which 
enables the growth to become well ripened. 
When potting, be careful to pot firmly, using 
a compost of loam, two parts; well-rotted 
manure, one part; and a 6-inch potful of 
bone-meal to a barrow-load of compost. The 
heads should be cut back the first season to 
about half the length of the growths, and it is 
a good plan to cut some growths rather 
harder than others—in fact I like to cut one 
or two grow ths quite close to the stem, which 
induces fresh breaks from the base of the 
shoots. W. X. 


ROSE WHITE BARONESS. 

After a few days of bright sunshine this 
Rose is beautiful. The shading of delicate 
blusli-pink is brought out upon the white 
ground, and the flowers appear as if moulded 
in wax, so perfect are they. Some indi¬ 
viduals have said they cannot discern the 
difference between White Raroness and Mer- 
veille do Lyon. Perhaps that is because they 
have never compared them together. The 
latter Rose is much larger and more double. 
It is a fine variety, its growths being so even 
and the flowers held up on such stiff stems. 
As with White Baroness, there is the Rame 
soft pink shading, which, in the August days, 
is so noticeable. Doubtless this tendency to 
pink shading is inherited from Baroness 
Rothschild, from which variety both sorts 
were sports, and Mabel Morrison is a third. 
For standards neither of these Roses is of 
any value. Hard pruning is essential with 
this class of Rose. If the blooms are fewer 
they are of good quality, and the growth is 
more robust and clean. The old variety 
Baroness Rothschild is now seldom seen. The 
Baroness Rothschild group is fine for pot cul¬ 
ture in cold houses, not so much for cutting, 
for they are too stiff in growth for that, but 
as individual pot specimens. E. 


ROSES FOR WEST WALL. 

I snoi'LD very much like to cover the west side of mv 
house with Climbing Roses. The height of the wall 
is 40 feet. Would it be hest to employ two kinds 
for this height—one for the lower and another for the 
upper part? The leneth of house is 15 yards. How 
many plants will he required? Please tell me kind of 
soil to provide, time to plant, when to prune, and 
kind of Roses to use, etc.?—E. Tina ley. 

[It will certainly bo best to employ strong- 
growing varieties,* alternated with less vigor¬ 
ous growers, and you cannot do better than 
select the sorts mainly from the Hybrid Tea 
and Tea-scented groups. We should advise 
you to plant the strong grow-ers about 4 feet 
apart, placing one of the less vigorous sorts 
in between. There is always a tendency in 
these strong growers to run away to the top 
of the wall, so that the other sorts could be 
used to furnish the lower part. Moreover, 
they would provide you with an almost con¬ 
tinuous supply of bloom, as most of them are 
very free flowering. On such a wall as you 
have you can grow the better class of Ros.'s. 
the names of which we give below, hut if you 
cared to ary the list, of strong growers by 
introducing Ladv Gay, Hiawatha, etc., of 
course you could do so, as these flourish 
grandly upon lofty walLs. You must provide 
the plants with a border 3 feet deep and 
about 3 feet wide. This should consist of 
good loam, if procurable, or, failing that, good 
soil from a garden where vegetables have been 
successfully grown. Mix one part of well-de¬ 
cayed manure to two parts of soil, and as you 
plant ear-li Rose sprinkle a handful of bone- 
meal among the soil that is placed about the 
roots of the Roses. Prepare the border in 
September, or before, and plant in November. 
When planting, open a hole about 12 inches 
square and deep, and place the roots therein. 
See that they are spread out freely not 
cramped in any way - and they should be 
about G inches below the surface. Tread the 
soil firmly about their roots, and fill up the 
hole with soil. After planting, nail the 
growths to the wail, but do not prune until 
March. Cover the surface soil with a thin 
layer of well-decayed manure immediately 
after the Roses are planted. In March cut 
the strong growers back to half their length 
and the moderate growers cut down to within 
4 inches or -5 inches of the ground. If the 
weather proves dry during April and May, 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

ROSES. 

ROSE CONRAD F. MEYER. 

This hybrid Rugosa is a valuable Rose for 
the garden. Either grown as a standard, 
as a pillar Rose, or as a bush, it is in 
every way suitable. In colour the flowers 
are a lovely pale pink. The flowers are of 
exceptional size for a R. rugosa—in fact, they 
are as large as in a well-developed Hybrid 
Perpetual, and, to add to their value, they 
are very sweet-scented. When several of the 
blooms are expanded at one time oil the long, 
prickly growths, they are very effective. 
Every new shoot shows a bloom-bud, thus 
still further proving its perpetual character. 
Altogether, this Rose deserves extended cul- 


ROSE DOROTHY PERKINS AS A SHORT 
STANDARD. 

This delightful Rose is so accommodating 
that it is difficult to suggest any form of grow¬ 
ing Roses that it is not suitable for. Perhaps 
one of the prettiest methods of displaying its 
charms is to bud it upon low standard Briers. 
The second year we have a drooping head of 
growth covered with numerous sprays of the 
lovely pink blossoms. A short tree of this 
description as a centrepiece for a bed would 
make n very telling feature, if a suitable con¬ 
trast of some Viola or other bedding plant be 
planted beneath, and one that would flower 
about the end of July, when Dorothy Perkins 
is at its best. Upon such Briers even of full 
height we seem to obtain a more perfected 
blossom, so that if a number of the lovely 
I trails are desired for floral decoration this 
I would be an excellent method of growing the 


Rosa rugosa Conrad F. Meyer. From a photograph in Messrs Paul and Son's nurseries at Cheshunt. 


tivation, and dwellers near largo towns should 
not fail to give it a trial. 


Rose Joseph Hill. This grand Rose will, 
probably, become as great a favourite as 
Mine. Abel Chatenay, with which it has some 
points in common, such as pointed outer 
petals, hut in colour it is very distinct. Here 
we have a wonderfully rich shading of red¬ 
dish-orange on a ground colour of salmon- 
pink, and, under glass, there is quite a mauve 
tint present. The growth is strong, when 
established, the variety throwing up those 
splendid vigorous reddish shoots so character¬ 
istic of the newer Hybrid Tens. The foli¬ 
age, too, is very distinct, being of quite a 
myrtle-green and red, with brilliant,, glossy 
hue. Planted out under glass, this Rose 
would prove valuable for forcing, although 
it would have to be extra good to surpass 
Mme. Abel Chatenayr^RosA. 

D • : • CjO gle 


| Rose. The necessary thinning of growth 
consequent on cutting the sprays would be 
really helpful to the trees, freeing them of 
the superabundant growths which this Rose 
I is apt to be encumbered with. Lady Gay is 
! even more glorious as a half or full standard, 
and in this manner of growing it one may 
see clearly its superiority in blossom and 
colour over Dorothy Perkins, which is not so 
noticeable upon pillar plants. 

As most individuals know, these Roses arc 
very valuable for forcing, and the standard 
and half standard style of growth is in de¬ 
mand. Some growers pot up the hedge Briers 
and hud them the following summer. I think 
I should prefer to pot up trees already fur¬ 
nished with heads that is to say, one-year- 
old specimens- then they would l>e in good 
condition the second season. It is always 
well to grow' this class of plant outdoors for 
, twelve months before introducing to heat, as 




GARDENING ILL VST RAT ED. 


August 10, 1907 


303 


the plants should receive some water at the 
roots, and during June water about twice a 
week with plain water. When the plants 
have been established twelve months or more, 
they may, about once a week, receive some 
liquid-manure during the summer months. 

The following we can recommend : — 

Strong growing are: Mme. Jules Grnve- 
reaux, Francois Crousse, Duchesso d’Auer- 
stadt, Climbing K. A. Victoria, Win. Allen 
Richardson, Mine. Alfred Carriere, Climbing 
Caroline Testout. Mme. Berard, Dr. Rouges, 
Reve d’Or, Lady Waterlow, and Climbing 
Frau Karl Druschki. 

Moderate growers: Mme. Ravary, Mme. 
Abel Chatenay, Marie Van Houtte, Phari- 
saer, Antoine Rivoire, Florence Pemberton, 
La France, Hugh Dickson, La France de ’89, 
Mine. Wagram, Prince de Bulgarie, and 
Richmond.] 


ROSE CANARIENVOGEL. 

This is a charming little Polvantha Rose of 
a glorious orange colour. When open, the 
effect is somewhat the same as from Eugenie 
Lameseh, blit in the bud is seen the rich 
colour named. These are most useful Roses 
to plant beneath standard Teas, or. indeed, 
anywhere, whether as edgings or in beds by 
themselves. Probably, the two greatest 
favourites are Eugenie Lameseh and Leonie 
Lameseh. The former yields wonderful 
trusses- quite bouquets in themselves- and 
there are quite a half dozen different tints of 
colour in the cluster. I find there is an in¬ 
creasing demand for such Roses, and one is 
not at. all surprised at this. The whole 
group would well repay one for the trouble of 
planting, even if only a plant of a sort were 
sot out. I think the feature will become 
common in gardens of having a bed com¬ 
prising all one tribe, such as a bed of China 
Roses, a Inal of Poly ant ha Roses, and so on. 

Rosa. 


NOTES AND PE PLIES. 

Forcing China and Polyantha Roses.-1 

should lik«■ to have information regarding these for 
forcing? I have forced for several years llermosa, 
Common Blush, f'rumofoi, Fellenberg, Mignonette. 
P.iquerette. and White Pet; hut. 1 have had different 
p.irdeners who have not treated them alike, and. 
although I have had them all pood at times, they 
have not with me invariably been a success. Per¬ 
haps our methods have been bad. My theory regard¬ 
ing- their treatment is they should he potted lip in 
September and October, and brought into heat in 
January and February. Do you consider all these 
varieties good for forcing, or are there better?—R ose 
A M ATMI R. 

[Unquestionably Roses required for forcing 
succeed best when established in their pots. 
When potted up from the ground in autumn 
the plants do not force well that season not 
until they have been in their pots some twelve 
months. If it is desired to accelerate the 
growth of the plants soon after potting up. 
they should he introduced into a low tem¬ 
perature at first—say, from 4. r i dogs, to 
50 (legs., so that root action is steady ; but it 
would be much better if the plants were grown 
outdoors the first season, and then the follow¬ 
ing autumn top-dressed and introduced later 
into the forcing-house. If plunged outdoors 
the first year, the pots may be covered with 
soil, and the plants arranged in 1k*<1s, which 
would give an excellent effect the first season. 
Plants are procurable from our leading Rose 
growers, struck from cuttings and grown in 
A-in eh pots. Such plants could be forced the 
first season, either in the same pots or shifted 
on into 7 inch pots. The varieties you name 
are good, but you should also include Com- 
tesse de C'ayla, Queen Mab, Aurore, 
Katherina Zeimet, Aschenbrodel, IVrle d’Or, 
Mme. N. Levavasseur, Leonie Lameseh. 
Eugenie Lameseh, Aennclien Muller, and 
Mrs. II. Cuthush.] 

Planting Roses on oast wall -A lone border, 
3 feet wide, wall facing east, l as been planted with 
a row of espalier trees against wall, and another row 
in front. All trees are coming up. as the w ish is to 
plant Roses. The soil is very light. Will you 
kindly advise what to do, and what Roses you recom¬ 
mend?— Brackens. 

[Such a border as you describe can lie 
made very attractive by planting it with 
Roses. We should advise that climbing varie¬ 
ties of the hardier tyjies he employed, because 
an eastern aspect i\i a very trying one, unless 
you happen to lie sheltered by trees in the 
neighbourhood of your JwHjndarics. F»r the 

Digitized by CjOOglC 


wall we would suggest the climbing varieties 
of Hybrid Teas and Hybrid Perpetuals, such 
as Climbing Caroline Testout, J. B. Clark, 
Climbing Victor Verdier, etc., and even some 
of the vigorous growing Hybrid Perpetuals, 
such as Ulrich Brunner, would do well. For 
the border we would suggest a row of half- 
standards running parallel with the wall, and 
about 12 inches from it. These half stan¬ 
dards could bo planted about 2 feet 6 inches 
apart. You would then have room for a row 
of bush Roses, planting them about (5 inches 
from the edge of the border. These should 
consist mainly of the Hybrid Perpetual and 
Hybrid Tea sections of such sterling sorts as 
Caroline Testout, Frau Karl Druschki, etc., 
and planted about 2 feet apart ; or, if you 
prefer a quick effect, plant 18 inches apart. 
Should you have no edging of any descrip¬ 
tion, you could plant a row of the dwarf 
Polyantha Roses, which are so well adapted 
for this purpose, selecting the dwarfeet 
growers of the Gloire des Polyantha type. 

We should recommend you to have the 
border bastard trenched as early as possible 
in autumn, taking care to incorporate with 
the subsoil some well-decayed farmyard 
manure, and a moderate amount should also 
be freely mixed with the top spit of soil. 
Manure that has been well turned over dur¬ 
ing this summer is by far the best to use, 
unless you can procure cow-manure, which 
is milch the best for a very light soil, such 
as yours. Plants should he, as far as pos¬ 
sible. on the Brier stock, unless you can 
obtain some on their own roots.] 

Rose Hugh Dickson (H.P.). This is the 
best crimson variety sent out for some years. 
By disbudding well, and also pindiing hack 
the growtho that show on each stem, really 
splendid flowers are possible, quite equal to 
those of any of the old sorts indeed, in shape 
they are superior. I consider this Rose far 
superior to J. B. Clarke, and I am certain it 
will become a more general favourite. The 
plum colour of J. B. Clarke is against it 
ever becoming very .popular, although in 
petal it is magnificent. I should say both 
sorts resulted from the same cross, and, if I 
remember rightly, Mr. Dickson informed me 
that Hugh Dickson wan the offspring of Lend 
Bacon and Gruss an Teplitz. It is like a 
Lord Bacon glorified. I have seen blossoms 
fully 5 inches across, and as much as 3 inches 
deep, the shape almost like a huge egg. We 
want more of these crimson Roses. Some of 
the recent brilliant coloured Roses for in 
stance, C. J. Grahame are wanting in ful¬ 
ness. Such flowers have no staying powers. 
T have this sea-son been much pleased with 
Commandant Felix Faure. The intense ver¬ 
milion shading, with velvety black overlaid, 
produces a beautiful effect in a rather ex¬ 
pansive flower. It is in colour in the way of 
Duke of Wellington, hut of a different form. 
Being a free bloomer, on cut, hack plants it 
should prove, as it doubtless will, an excel¬ 
lent garden Rose, and it, is a splendid grower, 
which fits it admirably for standards. Rosa. 

Rose Florence Pemberton (H.T.). This 
Rose is valuable to the exhibitor, and it may 
also be looked upon as one of our very best 
garden Roses. That it comes from the Caro 
line Testout group seems evident, but the 
superb finish of the blossoms and their huge 
size betoken the influence of a Rose like 
Bessie Brown ns pollen parent. In the gar 
den it is so vigorous and healthy that, one 
may cut long stemmed blossoms and scarcely 
miss them, so freely are they produced. It 
succeeds admirably ns a bush or ns a stan¬ 
dard. It is certainly one of the best all 
round sorts that Messrs. A. Dickson and 
Sons have distributed. The colour is a lovely 
creamy-white, with flesh-pink tintings oF a 
very delicate hue. Florence Pemberton is 
one of those Roses that can be recognised at 
a glance, and this is as it should be. I have 
no patience with raisers introducing Rose6 
too near like existing sorts. There should be 
a real distinctness, such as we obtain, for in¬ 
stance. in Roses of the type of Pharisner, Frau 
Karl Druschki. Medea, etc., then, however 
large our collection, such distinct novelties 
must be welcome.—W. X. 

Crimson China Roses.— The value of these 
Roses is not fully realised. Their compact 
habit of growth and wonderful colour, com¬ 
bined with practically a continuous blossom¬ 


ing, place them in the front rank of garden 
Roses. The old Crimson China is, perhaps, 
the be6t of all, but there is a difficulty in 
obtaining it true to name. That it resembles 
Fabvier cannot be denied, but there is a 
richer blood-red line in the Old Crimson, 
when compared with the lighter crimson of 
Fabvier. Both 6orts throw up their blossoms 
so well on good, stiff stalks, that enable the 
full effect of the brilliant, colour to be ob¬ 
tained. They are unlike Crnmoisi-Superieur 
in this respect, for although of a glorious 
colour and a pretty blossom, yet the drooping 
habit detracts considerably from the value of 
this sort. I think Princesse de Sagan should 
be grouped with these China Roses.—W. X. 

Rose Climbing Souvenir de Malmaison.— 

Till I came here I never met with the climb¬ 
ing form. It is growing in a cold-house 
against an end section, and now, after more 
than twenty years, it does good service, and 
has reached the top of the wall, which is 
about 15 feet high. From this plant I get 
two fine crops—namely, in spring and 
autumn. I find the flowers are much better 
from the first crop, under glaas, than from 
the open wall. I have on a south wall in 
front of the Abbey a plant about as high as 
that under glass, and now, at the middle of 
June, it is full of bloom. These flowers, 
however, do not open, and lack the fine form 
and colour so peculiar to this kind in 
autumn. At Cricket St. Thomas this Rose is 
planted out under glass at the foot of a wall 
facing north, and has grown as freely as the 
one I have. In this position the blooms oj>eii 
well in early spring and summer. This in¬ 
duces me to think that- it does not need great 
warmth to obtain fine flowers. This climb¬ 
ing form is about as vigorous as the 
typo. All these climbing forms are on the 
Brier stock. Those who want Roses in late 
autumn, either from the open or pots, should 
grow this fine old kind. I often in the autumn 
pick fine blooms from the plant growing in 
the cold house referred to above. John 
Crook, Fordc Abbey. 

Rose Betty. This is, perhaps, one of the 
most interesting of recent Roses, not so much 
for its quality of bloom, but its wondrous 
elongated bud and huge petalled open 
flowers. It cannot, fail to become a very 
popular flower, for the colour is so beautiful, 
apricot and peach-pink predominating, with 
ruby-red tips to the jietals. The buds are as 
shapely as those of Gustave Regis, and for 
this florists will do well to secure a large 
stock for cutting. In growth it is really fine, 
making strong wood of good length and 
beautiful foliage of a kind that betokens its 
relationship to Mrs. W. J. Grant. In the 
large, open flowers it reminds me much of G. 
Nabonuand, excepting that the bloom is 
rather more expansive in this latter sort.— 
W. E. 

Rose Xavier Olibo. In reply to “V. X. O., 

Weybridge, Surrey,” 1 have grown the Roses 
Xavier Olibo, Horace Vernet, and Victor 
Hugo for a great number of years, and find 
it greatly depends on the soil and position 
whether they do well or not. 1 budded a 
quantity of these varieties on young, strong 
Briers for standards on deep, medium loam 
in Kent, and they made such tremendous 
shoots that 1 hod great difficulty in keeping 
them shapely trees. Then, again. I have 
seen them in some gardens where they abso¬ 
lutely refused to grow at all, especially 
Xavier Olibo. They should be given every 
inducement to grow well by being budded on 
young, green Briers. Victor Hugo is the best 
of the three for most gardens. W. R. 
Giles, Carshalton, Surrey. 

Two charming button hole Roses — The 

dwarf Polyantha Roses have a special value in this 
respect, especially the beautiful Leonie Lameseh. 
This is a curious but pretty flower, of a bright cop¬ 
per-red with a golden centre nnd base of florets, and 
the fragrance reminds one of the Sweet Brier. The 
two sorts that I wish to eall attention to are 
Polyantha Roses, named respectively Perle d’Or and 
Cec’ilc* Brunner. The colour of the former may he 
described as nankeen-yellow. I have had plenty of 
flowers this season as rich in colour as William 
Allen Richardson, but the hldssoms are much smaller 
than in that variety, and far more dainty. Cecile 
Brunner is a comparatively long hud of exquisite 
shape, and the colour- is a lovely pale blush-pink. 
Those who have seen these Roses have unhesitatingly 
expressed their admiration for the blossoms. The 
plants are not expensive, and are particularly good 

1,1 tlNtVMTVOF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




August 10, 1907 


GARDENING 1L L VSIRATED. 


307 



week section should be sown in pots at once, 
being thinned out as in the case of Mignon¬ 
ette. All of these annuals may be grown or 
raised in the open if there is not room under 
glass, although the germination of the seed 
would be surer if protection were afforded. 

Of tender annuals, care should be taken of 
the Celosias; these are susceptible to attacks 
of red spider if not sufficiently syringed, or 
when starved at the root either bv poor soil 
or not enough water. These are best grown 
in fairly deep pits, where they can be plunged 
in a gentle bottom heat whilst growing 
quickly. When it is seen that they will 
flower too soon, or in order to keep the plants 
compact and bushy, they should he pinched. 
Although the plumes may not, under this 
treatment, be quite so fine, they will yet be 
very good when the plants arc well attended 
to. Occasional doses of manure-water or an 
artificial stimulant will greatly assist them, 
when the pots are full of roots. Cockscombs 
should lx* kept grow ing without a check until 
the eombs have nearly attained to their full 
size. Brow'allia elata is a most useful autumn 
annual to grow in a close pit or frame; by 
pinching its shoots a few times, a much better 
plant can be formed. This plant will flower 
about now if not so treated, but it is of most 
service in the autumn ; hence the desirability 
of pinching. The Globe Amaranths are not 
nearly enough grown, probably because their 
culture is attempted in too cool a house or 
pit. With warmth and moisture, so that a 
good foundation can be laid, and occasional 
stopping when the plants are seen to be get¬ 
ting too tall, there is yet time to obtain good 
plants for the season under notice. Balsams 
for the late autumn could now’ be grown on 
from seed if kept in warmth and moisture 
without any check, but anything larger than 
(i-inch pots should not for late blooming ever 
be attempted. The seed of this annual is often 
sown too soon, the plants not having proper 
attention, simply from want of room when 
much space is occupied with bedding plants. 

Of other plants for the autumn, particular 
note should be taken of Zonal Pelargoniums. 
Where those are now well established, they 
should be kept freely exposed, the fiower- 
trusses still being picked off as they appear. 
No potting later than this ought to be at¬ 
tempted, otherwise the growth w ill tend to¬ 
wards too groat luxuriance ami loss of flower 
when needed. Any plants now in bloom, if 
they have done a good, turn and can be 
spared, should be stood out-of doors being 
relieved of their spikes of flower ; eneouiage- 
mejit will thus be given for them to make 
more growth; then, later on. they will again 
come in useful. The early flowering Chrys¬ 
anthemums are now coining into bloom, but 
those for the end of September will be found 
the more useful; these, too, should lx? well 
exposed. Many will soon show their buds. 
When these are fairly advanced, manure- 
water will benefit them more than at the pre¬ 
sent. time. 


SPRING FLOWERING BULBS. 

All lovers of flow’ers will admit that, without 
such as Hyacinths, Jonquils, Narcissi, 
Tulips, Freesias, Lachenalias, and a few 
others, our greenhouses in spring would be 
very much less interesting than they are at 
the present day. The culture of such bulbs 
is not difficult. They are subject to few 
enemies, and require little or no heat to 
bring them to perfection. Taking them in 
the order named, the first four are quite safe 
during the winter months if plunged in ashes 
in an ordinary garden frame, covering over 
the rims of the pots with Coeoanlit fibre re¬ 
fuse to prevent the soil getting much frozen. 
The two last-named require to be removed to 
a house where a little tire-heat ean bo given 
during much frost, although Freesias prove 
quite hardy here in Devon planted ngainst 
a south wall. The month of August is the 
best time to get bulbs, potting up without 
delay. Who is there who does not admire a 
well-grown pot of early Roman Hyacinths 
towards Christmas? Such can be got with 
very little artificial heat- It is wise to give 
early orders. One may have to pay a trifle 
more, but it is money well spent. In many 
gardens Freesias and Lachenalias are in 
stock, these two being satisfactory for some 


INDOOR PLANTS. 

ANGELONIA SALICARI^EFOLIA (SYN. 
A. GRANDIFLORA). 

This native of Paraguay is a free-growing 
perenniaL plant belonging to the natural crcier 
Scrophulariaceie, and extremely useful for the 
embellishment, of the greenhouse (luring the 
late summer and autumn months. It is of 
upright growth, and. if stopped once or twice 
during its early stages, will push up several 
shoots to a height of a couple of feet or there¬ 
abouts. These shoots 
are closely packed with 
flowers, as may be seen 
by the accompanying 
illustration of the 
variety alba, which, 
under the name of A. 
grandiflora alba, lias of 
late years become 
popular. It was first 
distributed by M. 

Ernest Bennry, of Er¬ 
furt, in 1897, the 
typical species with 
purplish-blue flowers 
having been intro¬ 
duced from S o u t h 
America in 1818. 

Though, as above 
stated, this plant is of 
perennial duration, it 
is most satisfactory 
when treated a s a n 
annual, the seed being 
sown in a gentle heat 
in early spring and the 
plants grown on in a 
good light position in 
the g r e e nhouse. 

Ordinary potting com¬ 
post is all it needs, 
and as the pots get well 
furnished with roots 
an occasional dose 
weak liquid-manure 
very helpful. X. 


qualities during the past few years. Any 
fairly good soil will suit them, whilst the 
trifling check by potting will do good rather 
than otherwise in retarding the flowering 
period. Throe plants in a 6-inch pot will 
make an excellent display. Where there is 
a surplus of Intermediate or East Lothian 
Stocks, these may be treated in like manner, 
but minus any shade, with but little water, 
until again well established. These will 
quickly recover their usual vitality; any 
drooping at the time of potting need not 
cause any anxiety whatever. Another ser¬ 


of 

is 


PLANTS FOR THE 
EARLY AUTUMN. 


Attention e h o u 1 d 
now lx? turned towards 
securing a full supply 
of plants to flower 
from the middle of 
September until the 
Chrysanthemum season 
is fairly advanced. 

Early-flowering Clirys- 
n utlie in unis, it is true, 
supply us with most 
serviceable material, 
hut variety is needed 
as well, besides which, 
if the earlv-flowering 
kinds are in strong 
force, it may, to a cer¬ 
tain extent, militate 
against the well-being 
of the main stock 
either from want of 
proper room or from 
time to give all kinds 
due attention. Again, 
if the early kinds are 
too prominent, there is 
the possibility of the 
interest in the mid and 
late season varieties 
being lessened. Plants 
of 6uch things which 
can now be grown on 

so as to do good service at the time in¬ 
dicated, and afterwards be thrown away, 
will be found exceedingly useful whpre 
any large quantity of decorative work has 
to be attended to. Annuals, either hardy, 
half-hardy, or tender, supply this kind of 
stock; these may be grown under disadvan¬ 
tageous circumstances, comparatively speak¬ 
ing. For instance, just now it would be an 
easy matter to lift from the open ground, 
pot up, and keep for a few days in a partially 
shaded spot some of the best kinds of Asters 
of the annual section, jrfnoh"Ni whig 1 
has been such an adtaneejfil tl 


Angelonia grandiflora alba. From a photograph in Messrs. Veitch’s 
nursery at Chelsea. 


viceable class of plants for the autumn is 
the varieties of Salpiglossis; these will hear 
pinching to keep them more bushy. The list 
may be further increased by such as the an¬ 
nual Coreopsis, the Heliehrysums and Nioo- 
tiana affinis, all doing a good turn when 
flowers begin to he somewhat, scarce. Of an¬ 
nuals, which may now lx* sown in pots for the 
same season, the Mignonette is, of course, one 
of the most popular. Neniophila insignis is, 
however, seldom seen in pots, but it. is a most 
useful and easily grown plant, so also is the 
dwarf type of Scabious; whilst., if the'Stocks 
before alluded to are not, at hand, the Ten- 







308 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


August 10 , 1907 


few years, when well eared for after passing 
out of flower, although it is wise to buy fresh 
bulbs occasionally, especially of the first- 
named, ns i find the spikes of bloom come 
very much finer for two seasons. Home¬ 
grown bulbs should be shaken free of the soil, 
and the finest picked out for placing in 5-inch 
pots for early flowering, six or eight in a 
pot, using loam, leaf-mould, and a small quan¬ 
tity of well-decomposed manure, with plenty 
of sand to keep the whole porous. These 
two bulbs should be covered lightly with soil, 
and over this an inch or so of Cocoanut-fibre 
refuse, and stood in a shady place, either 
under glass or in the open, giving a good 
watering after potting. This must be re 
moved as soon as growth is active, and the 
pots placed in a cool frame, plunged in 
ashes, close to the glass, to prevent the 
foliage becoming drawn. Hyacinths do well 
in 5-inch pots, placing throe bulbs in a pot. 
The larger flowered varieties can either be 
potted singly into 5J-inch or 6 inch pots; 
but where a good show is required, three 
bulbs of any one variety should be planted in 
a 7-inch pot. These are most serviceable for 
standing in epergnes or vases in the dwelling- 
house, where strong-smelling flowers are not 
objected to. Jonquils are best grown in pots 
4 inches in diameter, and come in very useful 
for grouping, or in small stands in the house, 
as well as for side stages in the eool green¬ 
house. Three of these small bulbs may be 
planted in each pot, or. should larger speci¬ 
mens be required, place six or seven in a 6-inch 
pot. Jonquils are much better when allowed 
to bloom naturally, and may be kept out in 
the pits or frames until they commence to 
open their flowers. 

In potting all these bulbs, do not press 
the soil much at the base of the bulbs, or the 
roots, as they begin to push, will lift the bulb 
out of the pot. Press the soil moderately 
around the bulb after placing in position. 
Water in after potting, and place in a frame 
or pit, and cover with ashes or similar mate¬ 
rial to a depth of 4 inches, keeping the 
Narcissi and Jonquils at one end, as growth 
begins earlier, and they will require to be 
brought to the light in good time. As the 
pots get filled with roots, give copious manu- 
rial waterings. Tulips require similar treat¬ 
ment as do Jonquils, except that they may be 
brought earlier into bloom; but on no ac¬ 
count introduce any enumerated here into 
heat until the pots are well packed with 
roots. Laehenalias resent fire heat except 
to keep away actual frost. There are 
several other bulbs that may be used for the 
greenhouse, such as Crocuses, Jxias, Spa- 
raxis, Snowdrops, Soillas, Chionodoxas, and 
the smaller-flowered Irises; but these pre¬ 
viously mentioned are much more in use, and 
give much better returns. Baskets are some¬ 
times used for Croc-uses and Laehenalias, 
which look pretty when in flower, but pots are 
more handy for the amateur, and require 
less labour and attention afterwards. 

East Devon. 


NOTES AND HE DUES. 

Growing Eucharis.—I hnve a hull) of Eut-hnria 
nmnzonica, and not having had much to do with 
thin, would you kindly give me some hints on its 
culture?—S cot. 

[The Eucharis is essentially a stove plant— 
that is to say, it needs at least a minimum 
temperature of 55 degs. during the winter, 
and if required to bloom at that season a 
night temperature of 60 degs. to 65 degs., 
with a rise of 10 degs. or a little less during 
the day, must be maintained. A very suit¬ 
able compost is two thirds good fibrous loam 
to one-third leaf-mould, with a liberal ad¬ 
mixture of pieces of charcoal about the size 
of a Hazel-nut, and coarse silver-sand. Care 
must he taken not to overpot, and, in the 
case of established specimens, they may re¬ 
main in the same pot for years and continue 
in robust health. For single bulbs, pots 
5 inches and 6 inches in diameter will be 
ample, and where three bulbs are put into 
one pot 6 inches and 7 inches will suffice. 
Drain thoroughly, as stagnant moisture is 
very detrimental to the health of the Eu¬ 
charis, and in all stages the watering must 
be carefully done, as an excess of water lias 
ruined many fine pl»rrH». The chari oal is of 
great service in kerftung sciMm amorous 


| condition. During the summer a moderate 
amount of shading is necessary, and at that 
season the structure in which they are grow¬ 
ing may, with sun-heat, be allowed to run up 
to 80 degs. or 90 degs. Some cultivators 
prefer plunging the pots in bottom-heat, but 
this is by no means necessary. While the 
Eucliaris may be had in flower at Christmas, 
it is somew'hat erratic in its behaviour, and 
the market growers who make a feature of 
maintaining a supply of cut flowers to a 
greater or less extent all the year round grow 
them by the thousand, so that should a few 
fail at the expected time others will take 
their place. Those that are intended to 
bloom about Christmas and the new year are 
given a partial rest by keeping them some¬ 
what cooler during July and August, but 
they must on no account be dried off as many 
bulbs are, for the Eucharis is essentially ail 
evergreen, and any attempt to treat it other¬ 
wise will only result in failure.] 

Solanum Wendlandi. -Regarded ns a 
climbing plant for the warm greenhouse, this 
Solanum has become a general favourite, but 
for its development a good sized structure is 
necessary. Not so, however, in the form it 
was exhibited at Holland Park exhibition by 
Messrs. Godfrey, of Exmouth, for they put up 
a group of plants ranging in heigfit from 
about 18 inches to 2 feet, each plant carrying 
a large terminal head of blossoms, after the 
manner of a Hydrangea. It is certainly an 
uncommon way of growing this Solanum, but 
in this fashion it docs not appeal to one so 
strongly as when the massive heads of flowers 
are depending from Iho roof of a fairly lofty 
structure. There is this advantage, however, 
that the dwarf plants may bo grown in quite 
a small house, which would not suit them if 
treated as a climber. I should imagine that 
these dwarf plants are the product of cut¬ 
tings taken in the autumn from the shoots 
most likely to flow r er if left on the plant. 
Another of these flowering Solanums—viz., 
S. Seaforthianum— came under my notice re¬ 
cently, flowering well in pots 5 inches in 
diameter, but in the case of this species the 
plants were trained to a stick a yard high, 
the pendulous clusters of blooms having a 
very pleasing effect. The pure white S. jas- 
minoides also blooms well when small.—X. 


GARDEN PESTS AND FRIENDS. 

DESTROYING SLUGS. 

In answer to “ L. O. L," the lime to be 
used for the above purpose should not be 
air-slaked, for while it is receiving moisture 
from the atmosphere it is at the same time 
imbibing carbonic acid from the same source, 
causing it to return to its original state of 
carbonate of lime, thereby losing its caustic 
properties and becoming useless as a slug 
destroyer. As to the quantity of lime used 
to a given quantity of water, I might remark 
that lime is hut very sparingly soluble in 
water, a saturated solution of the same con¬ 
taining only one part of lime to 730 parts of 
cold water. The lime can he applied to the 
lund at any time, either while the plants are 
in the border or after their removal. If the 
lime-water falls on the leafage, it will do no 
harm, lnifc as dry lime spots look very un¬ 
sightly they should be nil rinsed off with a 
rose water-pot while wet. My practice is to 
put a quantity of lime into a pail and to pour 
sortie water over it. As soon as this has 
finished effervescing, I make it into a paste. 
Next, 1 fill a large bath with cold water and 
put into the same a quantity of the lime 
paste and give it a stir. The lime soon sinks 
to the bottom, and the water oonres clear. 
But, not being certain about the time re¬ 
quired for the water and the lime to form a 
saturated solution, I purposely, in removing 
the lime water from the bath to the watering- 
pot, disturb the same enough to make the 
water appear cloudy, with the fine particles 
of lime held in solution. 1 feel that these 
lime particles can do no harm, but good, as 
they will certainly act as a manure, and, 
mixing with the surface of the soil, correct 
its stickiness, and, in a measure, prevent 
caking. I have only found it necessary to 
apply the lime-water once a year, which is in 
early spring. I might remark that quick¬ 


lime will retain its caustic properties for 
mouths, if placed in tins with close fitting 
covers. L. C. K. 

NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Grubs killing Stocks. -Will you kindly tell me 
what grub is killing all my stocks, and how I can get 
rid of it? 1 have a bed full of fine plants, and they 
are dying oiF by the dozen. On pulling them up I 
find the root is eaten away by a small, white grub. 
I enclose a plant that has two grubs on it, and shall 
be very grateful if you can tell me of a remedy.- 
Mas. E. D. Daniel. 

[Your Stocks are attacked by the grubs of 
a small fly, probably the Cabbage-fly (An- 
thorn ia brassiere), but the grubs of these flics 
so much resemble one another that it is very 
difficult to be quite certain to which species 
they belong. 1 am afraid that there is not 
anything that you can do to save vour plants, 
no insecticide that you can use with safety lo 
the plants will kill them, unless a powder 
called vaporite will. The makers claim 
great things for it, hut I have not heard of 
any experiments with this compound by 
amateurs, so cannot say if you would find it 
useful or not, but it might be worth trying. 
The chrysalides of this insect are formed in 
the ground, so that later on I should give a 
good dressing of gas-lime. Filling the bed 
with a different kind of plant will not do 
much good, as the flies, when they leave the 
chrysalides, will soon find their way lo other 
parts of the garden, and attack Cabbages, 
Stocks, or some other cruciferous plant.— 
G. S. S.] 

Leaves of Apple trees unhealthy - .— May I ask 

you to kindly inform me what the disease is which 
is affecting my Apple-trees, and what treatment jou 
recommend? I enclose some of the leaves affected. 
The trees were planted about two years ago.— 
C. J. R. K. 

[The leaves of your Apples are, apparently, 
attacked by the leaf scald fungus (Entomo- 
sporium maculatum). The dead leaves should 
be collected and burnt. Next season spray 
with Bordeaux mixture as soon as the leaves 
begin to expand, using the mixture very dilute 
at first, gradually increasing in strength as 
the leaves are able to bear it. Spray every 
ten days or a fortnight for two months.— 
G. S. S.] 

Mildew on Roses.—I have been troubled 
very much this season with mildew on Roses 
in the greenhouses, for which 1 have tried 
the following remedies, which have not 
proved very successful. I have managed to 
keep it in cheek to a certain extent, but I 
find all these remedies leave a white sediment 
on the leaves, which customers mistake for 
mildew. The following are the solutions I 
have used:—No. 1: 10 lb. Quassia chips, 
6 lb. soft soap, 1 lb. treacle, water 50 gal¬ 
lons. The Quassia chips are put into a 20- 
gallon copper, and boiled for half-an-hour, 
dip out the water, and drain it through can¬ 
vas. Refill and boil the water, using the 
same chips, until you have 50 gallons. Then 
add treacle and soap together, and dissolve 
in hot Quassia-water until thoroughly incor¬ 
porated together, when it is fit for use. No. 
2: 6 lb. Quassia chips, 5 lb. soft-soap. 2 lb. 
treacle, water 50 gallons. In this case all the 
ingredients were boiled together, several lots 
of water being passed through the boiler 
until the required quantity was obtained. 
No. 3: Bar of carbolic soap, one tablet dis¬ 
solved in 4 gallons of water. This leaves a 
nasty white sediment—a failure. No. 4: 
One half ounce of sulphide of potassium in 
2 gallons of water. This slightly checks the 
mildew, hut leaves a white sediment on the 
leaves. If used too often, it makes the leaves 
foci papery. No. 5: One pound sulphur, 
10 lb. chips, 8 lb. soft-soap, water 50 gallons. 
All boiled together same as No. 2. This gave 
worse results than No. 2. as there was more 
of the white sediment. No. 6: Urine and 
soot-water in equal quantity, made and used 
at the same time, not allowed to stand after 
being mixed. I find the soap loses its power 
when boiled with the other ingredients; 
therefore, it should never be boiled or dis¬ 
solved in boiling water. Let the tempera¬ 
ture of the Quassia solution down to blood 
heat before adding the soap and treacle. I 
find this gives the most satisfactory results. 
What I want to know is if I can add anything 
to this to cause the lime in the soap to settle 
at the bottom of the tub, so that 1 can use 
the clear solution only, and not injure the 
foliage. G. S., Itrislul. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


AuaitsT 10, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


309 



TREES AND SHRUBS. 

STUARTIA VIRGINICA. 

This, a flowering shoot of which wo figure 
from a photograph in Mr. Chambers’ interest- 
ing garden at Haslemere, comes from the 
warmer sbuthern States of North America, 


4 inches across, with pure white shell-like 
petals and red stamens in the centre. The 
petals are smooth at the edges, and some¬ 
times more or less streaked with crimson to¬ 
wards the base. Their season is variable, 
for while in warm places the first flowers 
open in May, in cooler districts they often 
appear during July. An account of the 


ness of colouring in this ; still, the fact that 
I it will thrive inland and under favourable 
I conditions form a most graceful specimen 
! seems to be generally overlooked. An addi- 
| tional feature is furnished by the flowers, 
i which are of a very pretty shade of pink. 

J They are borne in densely packed spikes, 
which are thickly arranged towards the upper 
part of the long, thin, wand- 
like shoots, and so light and 
elegant is the entire specimen 
that, when in full bloom, and 
at a little distance, the upper 
part appears to be enveloped 
in a pink cloud. A well bal¬ 
anced specimen of the Tama¬ 
risk is a very beautiful lawn 
shrub, more especially where 
the soil is fairly cool and 
moist, but even where dry and 
sandy it will succeed better 
than many other shrubs. T. 


Flowering shoot of Stuartia virgtnica. From a photograph in Mr. Chambers' garden at Ilaslemere. 


where it grows in swamps, on river banks, 
and in sliadv places from the coast to the foot 
of the mountains. It is one of the mast 
beautiful of flowering shrubs, though more 
sensitive to cold, and never so vigorous as the 
other kinds, rarely exceeding 10 feet in 
height, and with a looser habit of growth. 
This kind lias the finfsT*flowers of III. but 
not quite so abundant(&£h irfcji^nring 


Stuartias, with an illustration of S. pscudo- 
Camellia, will be found in our issue of No¬ 
vember 24th, 1900, page 032. 


The Tamarisk in bloom. The Tamarisk 
is often employed a« a screen or shelter plant 
close to the sea, for the salt spray which in¬ 
jures so many shrubs only adds to the rich- 


OUTLINES TO SHRUB¬ 
BERIES. 

In the first formation of shrub¬ 
beries a formal outline may be 
excusable, but the sooner the 
shrubs are permitted to grow 
over and through it, unless it 
be bounded by a path, the bet¬ 
ter. I have often thought the 
common practice of leaving a 
marginal border round masses 
of shrubs for flowers a mis¬ 
taken one; too often, when 
such is the ease, they present 
but a littery, rubbishy appear¬ 
ance. Can anything add to 
the beauty of a well-developed 
shrub springing direct from the 
fresh green turf? I think not; 
therefore, let the Grass grow 
close up to the shrubs, without 
any bare soil intervening, and 
the different habits and styles 
of growth of the various shrubs 
in a well-arranged group will 
always give that variety of out¬ 
line which is so pleasing. Of 
course, a little pruning may be 
necessary. Art may be per¬ 
mitted to mend Nature, so far 
as to stop or remove a robber 
shoot that is likely to destroy 
the balance of power in the 
plant. This is requisite in al¬ 
most every form of tree or 
shrub growth. In the grassy 
glades that intersect masses of 
shrubs, and which, when well 
and tastefully arranged, add 
so much to their picturesque 
appearunce and beauty, groups 
of the more striking herbaceous 
.plants may be used with good 
effect. Thus a group of her¬ 
baceous Pteonies planted out in 
the Grass a few feet from its 
margin, in front of a mass of 
shrubs, has a far better effect 
than when growing in a 
crowded condition under or 
among the shrubs themselves. 
The same idea could be worked 
out with many other plants, 
such as hardy Fuchsias, the 
autumn-flowering Anemones, 
and notably the large Poly¬ 
gonums. This appears to me 
to be the true way of bringing 
out the decorative force of any 
handsome or striking plant, 
but it must not be overdone. 
A single group of any suitable 
subject, well placed, would 
have a very striking effect. 
The great evil often noticed in 
the treatment of any given ob- 
j.-i t i - carrying the idea too far. It does not 
follow because a particular group in a cer¬ 
tain position may look well and pleasing, 
that an increase* in the number of such 
groups would have the same effect. ^ 

—jii.ii ■ 111 _;■ i 

Criselinia littoralis.— This New Zealand 
shrub is, in the neighbourhood of London, 









GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


August 10, 1907 


3H) 


essentially a greenhouse plant, for though it 
may survive two or three winters on a wail, 
or in some other sheltered position, yet it 
cannot be depended upon even there, and 
frequently suffers considerably, if not killed. 
On the other hand, in a greenhouse or con¬ 
servatory its large shining leaves render it a 
very handsome evergreen shrub, that may be 
kept for years in a pot or tub, and turned out¬ 
side during the summer months. Its orna¬ 
mental foliage is the only claim to recogni¬ 
tion it possesses, as the flowers are by no 
means conspicuous. It can be readily pro¬ 
pagated by means of cuttings of the half- 
ripened shoots, taken at any time during the 
summer months, put into sandy soil, and 
kept close till rooted. For this purpose the 
weak or moderate shoots rather than the very 
vigorous ones should be chosen.—G. It. C. 


NOTES AND IiEPTJES. 

Magnolia bare at the bottom.—1 have a Mag¬ 
nolia, the Kxmouth variety. It is 13 feet high, ami 
has MooiihmI every year for the last four years. It is 
growing against a brick wall, with a south-west 
aspect. It gets plenty of moisture at the root, hut 
is getting hare at the bottom for about 6 feet tip. 
How can i induce it to break?—C lifton. 

[There is nothing that you can do to in¬ 
duce your Magnolia to break out towards the 
base unless it is cut back hard, and it seems 
a great pity to subject a fine specimen to 
such mutilation. We should recommend the 
planting of two smaller growing evergreens 
one on either side of the Magnolia—and 
secure them to the hare part of tin* wall. 
Such subjects as Camellia Sasanqua, Choisya 
ternata, Cotoneaster microphylla, Eugenia 
apiculata, Euonymus radicans variegatus, and 
Kaphiolepis japonica, can he recommended.j 

Abelia triflora-— Would you tell me the name 
of this flower, which was picked oiT a shrub growing 
out-of-doors?—COPLESTON. 

[Abelia triflora, which is such a pretty and 
uncommon shrub as to merit at least a pass 
ing notice, is a native of the Himalayas 
where it forms a shrub or even email tree, 
according to its situation. In this country i' 
is a slender-branched, free-growing shrub 
which blooms during the summer months 
The inflorescence is totally unlike that of any 
other Abelia, for the small, pinkish-coloured, 
tubular-shaped flowers are borne in compae' 
clusters at the points of the shoots. When ii. 
full bloom it is very pretty, and, what if 
more, the flowers have a delicious perfume 
Even in the neighbourhood of London it re 
quires the protection of a wall, but in tin 
favoured parts of the south west, it is re 
garded as quite hardy. The specific name o' 
triflora Appears, at first glance, to he a mis 
nomer, but applies to the flowers, which g< 
to form the closely-packed head, being dis 
posed in threes. It is one of those unoom 
moil, yet desirable, shrubs which are difficult 
to obtain from nurseries.] 

Rhododendrons—a long season. Where 
the soil and water are suitable it is doubtful 
if any other evergreen shrub can take the 
place of this for brightening up the land 
scape. Another of its recommendations b 
the length of time it may be had in bloom. It 
is no uncommon thing to see groups composed 
of kinds that give a season of about four 
weeks. This may l>e extended to almost 
double this time if a good selection has been 
made with this view. Kinds that bloom in 
May, like Altaclarense, are quite safe with 
the shelter of trees or tall shrubs. During 
June and early July most of the Rhododen¬ 
drons are in bloom, but by adding some latc¬ 
hlooming kinds, like Queen, Joseph Whit¬ 
worth. Lord Roberts, etc., the season is con¬ 
siderably extended. Another way of extend 
ing the season is to plant late-blooming kinds 
in cold, northern positions. Now (July 16th) 
I have plants of Queen in full bloom thus 
placed. For cold districts these late bloom¬ 
ing kinds can be highly recommended. 

J. C. F. 


"The English Flower Garden and Home 

Grounds."—A'nr Edition , 10th, revised, with descrip¬ 
tions of all the best plants , trees , and shrubs, their 
culture and arrangement, illustrated on wood. Cloth, 
medium, Svo., 15s .; post free, 15s. 6<L 

"The English Flower Garden” may also 6; 
had finely bound in S vo 
all booksellers. 


OUTDOOR PLANTS* 

NOTES ON LILIES. 

It is doubtful if any more showy and beauti¬ 
ful flowering hardy plants can be named that 
bloom during July and August than the white 
and orange Lilies, and they are often seen at 
their best in cottage gardens. This occurred 
tome at the close ol July, when I was pass¬ 
ing a cottage in a village. So fine was the 
Madonna Lily that I asked the owner to 
allow me to measure the spikes. I found 
them 6-i feet high, with fine large blooms 
crowning the stems. On examining, 1 found 
seven of these spikes to one bulb. I was told 
by the owner that one bulb was planted in 
that place three years ago. It stood in a 
border close to the foot of a stone wall. I 
was tokl nothing had been done to it since 
planting. In another cottage garden near, 
this Lily thrives in an open border. Although 
these Lilies are growing within a quarter of a 
mile of my garden, I have never succeeded 
in growing them, as the disease always cuts 
them off. In the first-named garden and 
close to the white was to be seen a long bor¬ 
der of the orange Lily doing equally well. 
There were at least one hundred spikes. I 
noticed these had received no attention for 
many years—in fact, the soil was covered with 
weeds and Grass. In our grounds the com¬ 
mon Martagon is a great success. Some few 
years since I planted a bulb of this in good 
soil in the kitchen garden, and at the end of 
three years the spikes had attained to a 
height of 8 feet, having nearly one hundred 
blooms on a spike, with five spikes to the one 
bulb. This I took up last autumn, and found 
five enormous bulbs close together. Last 
spring, quite early, I obtained three bulbs of 
the white Martagon. These I planted in a 
group in a new bed made for Rhododendrons, 
and now, at the close of July, they are in 
bloom. I should be glad if any reader can 
give bis experience as to its hardiness. The 
Scarlet Turk’s Cap was planted at the same 
time, and by its side, but it does not look 
happy. I have never succeeded with this 
kind. L. testaceum is now beautiful in an 
open border. J. CROOK. 


RAISING NEW VARIETIES OF SWEET 
PEAS. 

Each season the display of Sweet Peas made 
by the leading firms at the more important 
exhibitions appears to be larger and more 
comprehensive, and there is the possibility of 
the public getting “too much of a gcotl 
thing.” At the recent, show of the Royal 
Horticultural Society, at Holland House, one 
grower had some ICO large and handsome 
bunches, while others had fully a hundred 
bunches, and very few growers less than that 
number. It must ba admitted that increas¬ 
ing care and attention will be necessary to 
avoid a similarity of names of varieties. 
Many of the newer, as well as the older, 
varieties are so nearly alike that it has lie- 
come a matter of extreme difficulty to dis¬ 
tinguish many sorts when sot up side by side. 
This has become even more pronounced now 
that we arc getting so many of the Countess 
Spencer seedlings, with their beautiful waved 
standards. There is a charm about this newer 
type of the flower that seems to appeal to 
almost everyone, and now that the colours 
are varied and the standards are becoming 
almost frilled in their character, the waved 
type of the flower is in demand. There is a 
danger, however, at the present time of the 
raising of the same variety by growers situ¬ 
ated in different parts of the country. There 
luvs already appeared in different establish¬ 
ments one and the same Sweet Pea, and they 
have each been '■given a separate ami distinct 
name, and distributed to the public as such. 
Each raiser is perfectly honest and straight¬ 
forward in distributing his novelties, and it is 
only after the purchaser bus obtained seeds 
of the novelties and grown them that he finds 
two or three 6orts bearing distinctive names 
identically the same. This is to be deplored, 
and should he dealt with by the committee of 
the National Sweet Pea Society. Surely they 
can bring forward some scheme whereby the 
purchaser can be protected ! Why not insti- 
' tute a register of varieties, the grower who 


first registers a novelty that is subsequently 
found to be in the hands of one or two other 
people to have the right of retaining the name 
given to the flower of his raising. Something 
of the kind should be done, and that speedily. 

To all appearance, trouble has already 
arisen in this respect, and this will increase 
unless means are taken to put the matter in 
order. Growers are already asking what is 
the difference between John logman and 
George Herbert, as represented at the 
National Show and elsewhere? Then there is 
the new white “Spencer.” Mr. II. J. Jones 
last Bcason exhibited his variety as Lady 
Lenn&rd, and another white of the same char¬ 
acter has been distributed as Ella Dyke. 
What is the difference between these two 
sorts? There are several others, especially in 
the pink colours of the “Spencer” type, that 
it is becoming increasingly difficult to 
separate, and this trouble is very likely to 
increase—at least, for a few' years. Wew'ere 
interested in some 138 crosses made last year, 
and the results in the flowering period this 
season have been quite remarkable. Records 
have been kept of the crosses, and the results 
of many of them, although different flowers 
were sometimes used, were exactly the same. 
The varieties of Sweet Peas are limited, and 
owing to the number of raisers using, prob¬ 
ably, the bulk of the best sorts in their 
crosses, it naturally follows that the same 
new sort is raised by different growers in 
places quite remote from each other. The 
only chance of one gaining something abso¬ 
lutely new seems to be to use the pollen of 
any novelty that has some slight variation 
from existing kinds, and to carry out the work 
under glass in the off season, and thus gain 
an advantage of a few months, which would 
be the equivalent of a full season out-of-doors. 

I). B. Crane. 


THREE GOOD PENTSTEMONS. 

The three following Pentstemons arc good 
perennials in warm gardens, but are very 
rarely met wjth : — 

P. CAMPANULATUS. This is given in 
“Nicholson’s Dictionary of Gardening” as 
bearing flowers “varying in shades of pink, 
dark purple, violet, etc.” I have only two 
forms namely, the pure white and bright 
crimson. These came from Canon Ella- 
eombj’s garden, at Bit ton, and are extremely 
pretty plants, growing tx> a height of 18 inches 
to 2 feet, and producing their charming 
flowers for many weeks. P. campanulatus is 
a native of Mexico. 

P. HETKROPHYLLU8 is one of the most 
charming of the dwarf kinds, growing about 
a foot in height. Its flowers are said in the 
dictionary to he pink or rose-purple, but in 
my plants they are a clear blue. It forms 
neat little bushes with narrow leaves and 
twiggy flower racemes. It is a native of 
California, and should Ik 1 planted in light 
soil in warm spots where it may enjoy a cer¬ 
tain amount of protection. A group of a 
dozen or so in the rock garden makes a 
charming display during the greater part of 
the Hu miner. 

P. tubiflorus is. apparently, almost un¬ 
known, as it is never alluded to in the gar¬ 
dening press, and no information is given in 
the horticultural dictionaries as to its native 
habitat. It is, however, a very handsome 
plant, attaining a height of 3 feet or more, 
and bearing branching heads, over a foot 
long, of pure white flowers, each l inch in 
length and J inch in breadth at the mouth. 
A large clump with a dozen tall flower-stems 
and numbers of smaller ones ranging in 
height from 1 foot to 2 feet, is an exceedingly 
pretty sight when in full bloom. 

S. W. Fitzherbert. 


Simple vase plants. For outdoor vases 
during the summer months plants that will 
prove effective with but a minimum share of 
attention are by many preferred, as at that 
time there is so much to do in the garden. 
On this point I was recently much struck with 
the contents of a large vase in a small sub¬ 
urban garden. Originally about half a dozen 
plants of Nasturtiums—the clear yellow and 
bright red-flowered kinds had been planted 
therein, and when I saw them they formed a 
delightful mass of tumbling stems, disposed 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




August 10, 1907 


gardening illustrated. 



in quite an informal manner, and plentifully 
sprinkled with their brightly-coloured blos¬ 
soms. Apparently the soil was far from rich, 
and, possibly, at times the water supply 
scanty, which circumstances were favourable 
to a wealth of blossoms rather than very 1 
luxuriant foliage. Another vase with a small 
l ucca recurva in the centre, surrounded with 1 
nothing but Creeping Jenny (Lvsinmehia 
minim maria), also struck me us very simple 
and effective. The yard long shoots of the 
creeper were studded with its well-known 
golden blossoms. - X. 


GROUP OF INCARYTLLEA IN THE 
FLOWER-GARDEN. 

Many hardy plants show- various merits mid 
beauty, but the new plants that give good and 
distinct effect in the open garden are far from 
numerous. In the hand or on the show bench 
plants that may' interest and even charm us, 
make a very poor effect in the open garden! 
\Ve may claim the quality wo seek in these 
Chinese plants, but have so often described the 


best for Carnations, and a rather good, hold¬ 
ing loam, full of fibre and rich withal, would 
have been much better. The dark-coloured 
spots to which you refer are, probably, of a 
fungoid character, and you may remove the 
affected portions and burn them, or syringe 
the plants with sulphur in solution mixed 
with soft snap. You must not permit the de¬ 
cayed parts to remain, or a more serious 
attack may await you another season.] 

The nearest approach to a primrose 
Sweet Pea.— For some years past Sw’eet Pea 
raisers have been trying* to got a new variety 
of a yellow or primrose colour, but so far 
they have not been very successful. At the 
recent show of the National Sweet Pea So¬ 
ciety, there were many vases of the rich 
cream, or so-called primrcee-coloured Sweet 
Peas, shown in excellent form and condition. 
In some instances the colour was remarkably 
good, and there certainly seemed evidence 
denoting the fact of advance being made. 
One case, however, calls for a special com¬ 
ment, this being in a winning collection, in 
which flowers cf a new Sweet Pea, named 


Part of a group of Incarvillea Delavayi. 


Horticultural Society on June 25th, bids fair 
to be a thoroughly good garden plant. It was 
exhibited by Messrs. Veitch, of Exeter, and 
described as a hybrid between the hardy 
Calceolaria plantaginea and a garden variety 
of the herbaceous section. The plants as 
shown were about 18 inches high, the whole 
of the upper portion being a mass of mode¬ 
rate-sized flowers of a bright yellow colour. 
It was raised by Messrs. Robert Veitch, of 
Exeter, and in their nursery there it is said 
to have stood outside without injury the last 
two winters, having during that time experi¬ 
enced 18 degs. of frost. The last few years 
have given us several hybrid Calceolarias of 
more than average merit, of which may be 
especially mentioned Jeffrey’s Hybrid and 
some pretty and interesting forms raised at 
Kew.—X. 


"hole family in OaRDENi.vo that we need not 
further describe them here. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Carnations diseased. In response to your re¬ 
quest I herewith enclose two complete specimens of 
injured Carnations, and shall esteem it a great favour 
if you will advise me what the disease or diseases 
are. and what is the remedy? The plants nrc in a 
A'hut is the cause and cure, if any, 
Carnations?— 


atrhes 


light soil. Also 
of dark purplish-brown p 
H. Likin 

[We greatly fear the disease is largely due 
to indifferent cultivation, and the weakness 
of stem growth and lack of vitality generally 1 Society, when shown by Messrs. R. Veitch 


James Grieve, were represented in magnifi 
cent condition. The blossom*, as exhibited, 
were almost a shade of creamy primrose, and 
stood out very conspicuously in the collec¬ 
tion. The quality of the flower* was good, 
and the vase of blossom* attracted much at¬ 
tention. 1 have not seen the variety cata¬ 
logued, but it was shown in the first prize col¬ 
lection of twenty-four bunches Sweet Peas 
distinct, and is a decided acquisition.—II. A. 

Calceolaria Veitchs Hardy Hybrid. This, 
to which an award of merit was given by the 
floral committee of the Royal Horticultural 


in the examples received but strengthen this and Sons, Exeter, is the result of a cr 


view. We notice in both instances that the 
incision for layering has been made in thin 
and rather old wood, much too far removed 
from the growth. In the case of No. 2, we 
would have marie fhe incision at least 5 inches 
nearer the leafy portion of the stem, where 
its greater size and freshness would have 
rendered material support to the plant when 
rooted. It is quite likely, we think, that, the 
length of time so hard a stem took to emit 
root-fibres lin-s been the ch ief cause of t 
trouble. 


ibres lias been the chief cause of the |-This very j; 

1". “I.igl.t soil” is given an awnr< 


between C. herbacea and C. plantaginea. The 
plants grow r from 12 inches to 24 inches high, 
the height varying, those having C. plan 
t.aginea as the seed parent being the taller. 
The blossoms, which are of good size, are 
golden-vellow, spotted crimson in the inside. 
We learn that at Exeter the plants have been 
growing outdoors for two years without any 
protection. They have endured 18 degs. of 
frost without any harm.—T. 

pretty Calceolaria, which 
d of merit by the Roval 


Picking off spent blossoms of the Tufted 
Pansies. The cool and moist weather that 
we have been experiencing in the south dur¬ 
ing the present flowering season has enabled 
the Tufted Pansies to produce blossoms of 
greater excellence than 1 have seen for many 
years past. The flowers re¬ 
mind mo of those we are ac¬ 
customed to see sent to the 
south by some of our Scotch 
growers. This cooler weather 
iu the south lias caused a 
slower period of development, 
and this has suited the plants 
and flowers admirably. At the 
time o t writing my flow era 
never looked better. The 
plants will not long remain 
in this happy condition, even 
supposing this cooler weather 
is likely to be experienced, un¬ 
less the spent blossoms are 
removed. Immediately the 
flowers begin to fail, they 
should be picked off close to 
the stem of the plant - not the 
flowers only, as so many 
people do. The flower and 
flower stalk should be removed 
in its entirety, in this way 
concentrating all the energies 
of the roots on the develop¬ 
ment of a succeeding series of 
buds and flowers. Should 
growers fail to do this, each 
succeeding series of flowers 
will develop a seed-pod, and 
so great is the strain on the 
plants, especially in the case 
of the more freely-flowered 
ones, that when this is so they 
immediately begin to deteri¬ 
orate. I have seen cutting- 
bods in which young plants 
have flowered freely for a 
period of two to three months, 
and suddenly the plants ap¬ 
peared to be failing. On 
closer observation I have 
found that the spent blossoms 
and seed-pods have not been 
removed, and the plants had become im¬ 
poverished in consequence. It was only after 
the whole of these seed pods and spent blos¬ 
soms had been removed that the plants began 
to recover. This treatment, together with 
the weekly hoeing between the rows of plants, 
will encourage the growth and considerably 
lengthen the season of bloom.—D. B. C. 

The Red-flowered Lady's Bower (Clematis 
Viticella).—In the estimation of not a few 
lovers of hardy climbers this European 
species is a handsomer and more graceful 
plant tli an a host of the large-flowered 
hybrids and seedlings which have originated 
within the last 6core years. Most people who 
take an interest in outdoor flowers cannot 
fail to have admired our native Traveller’s 
Joy (C. Vitalba), which in many parts of 
England runs over the hedges and bushes, 
loading them first with its copious clusters of 
white blossoms and afterwards with heaps of 
its feather-tailed, silky tufts. C. Viticella, 
which is quite as hardy and nearly as vigor¬ 
ous a grower as our native climber, suggests 
what beautiful effects could; be easily ob¬ 
tained bv planting Jfc near the base of 
sparsely fob aged trees, and allowing the long 










312 


GAUD Em KG ILLUSTRATED, 


Abgust iO, 1907 


shoots to climb at will among the branches. 
A good range of colour is available, ns a 
good many shades of blue and red can easily 
lie procured from any good nursery. In my 
opinion, however, none exceed in loveliness 
the wild red flowered type.- T. 

Sweet Peas. —Whilst at the great exhibi¬ 
tion of the National Sweet Pea Society the 
chief exhibitors are seedsmen and profes¬ 
sional gardeners, no doubt the best customers 
of seedsmen are the myriads, literally I 
millions, of cottage gardeners and allotment- j 
holders throughout the kingdom, every one i 
of whom has rows or clumps of Sweet Pens. 
In some cases the numbers thus grown in 
cottage gardens are astonishing, and 
though not, ns a rule, of the finest, varieties, 
and also mostly sown too thickly, yet some 
cottagers are content only with the best, and 
get from them very robust growth and 
puperb flowers. No flower in cultivation is 
more truly really everybody’s flower than is 
the Sweet Pen. In relation to some of the 
newer and, of course, more expensive varie¬ 
ties I have seen occasions in which complaints 
as to mixtures have been justified. Seeds¬ 
men cannot be entirely responsible for sport¬ 
ing, but most certainly the almost only ; 
honest way with all the Countess Spencer 
strain is to sell them as mixtures, as then 
no one is deceived.—A. D. 

Shirley Poppies. -The mistake of sowing 
seed too thickly is never more forcibly de¬ 
monstrated than in the case of Shirley Pop¬ 
pies. The seeds arc so small tliat it is an 
easy matter to sow too thickly, and it is not 
until the seedlings come up that the mistake 
is seen. Then it is that they should be 
thinned, as to leave them simply means that 
there will be a choking of most of them nt a 
later date, and, instead of fine blossoms, 
there will be nothing but small, insignificant 
blooms. It is well also to bear in mind that 
nt this time of the year seed quickly germi¬ 
nates, and a pinch of seed put in now will 
provide fresh plants and a continuance of 
flowers until well on into autumn. Towns¬ 
man. 

Lavatera trimestris.— This annual Mal¬ 
low, with its largo Convolvulus-shaped 
flowers of pale rose and glistening white, 
has been a most attractive note in the flower 
garden during the past month, the plants 
growing to a height of 3 feet or more, and 
producing a quantity of blossom. It is, how¬ 
ever, when used for indoor decoration that 
the beauties of the plant are most apparent. 
Cut at. their full length after sundown, and 
at once placed in tall vases, the effect of the 
flower sprays is delightful, the attractions of 
which increase for three days, by which time 
all the tightly-folded buds will have expanded 
and the satin-pink and white flowers studded 
the length of the curving shoots. The lasting 
properties of the blossoms are far greatei 
than their delicacy of petal would lead one tc 
expect, and in this respect they compaie 
very favourably with many of the midsum¬ 
mer flowers whose indoor life is to he 
reckoned by hours rather than by days. 

Eryngium Oliverianum. This is one or 
the most valuable members of this genus, 
and should be seen in all good collections. 
Its peculiarly ornamental character is well 
suited to forming hold and striking effects in 
the garden, and when at maturity the flower- 
heads put on their beautiful amethystine 
bins tint, these plants are equalled only by 
few. The effect of a group of this plant, is 
among the most, striking that can he seen, 
and even before the flowering stage is reached 
the plants arc highly ornamental for (ho sake 
of their foliag* alone. The majority of the 
species succeed ill a decplv-dug and faiily 
good soil, and may remain several years with¬ 
out disturbance. 

Rayless versus rayed Tufted Pansies. I>ur 

irm the last fifteen years there tins been considerable 
advance in Tufted Pansies of the raylos section. 
There are a crate and refinement about the rayless 
blossoms which are almost entirely absent from the 
rayed or pencilled kinds, however c«iod the latter may 
be. In many instances, too. flowers of the raview’s 
kinds arc verv sweet scented, and not seldom iln-ir 
habit of growth i- infinitely snpciicr. (’nfortunatcly, 
the grower of “ exhibit ion Violas'* lias of late pos¬ 
sessed himself of a number of ray less varieties, and 
these on plants with a coarse and unsatisfactory 
growth. In these eases everything is saeritieed to 
size and bloom, and their value in the garden is 
seldom considered. Occasionally, one comes across a 
plant that is good fop^ie garden as well as for ex¬ 


hibition; but such instances are all too rare. How¬ 
ever, when the rayless and rayed flowers are set up 
for exhibition side by side, or planted for compari¬ 
son in close proximity to one another, the superiority 
of the rayless kinds is most pronounced. 

Gathering and preserving Catananche 
coerulea — Will you kindly tell me the correct time 
to gather Catananche coerulea, and how to preserve 
it? 1 gathered some heads a few days ago, which i 
imagined were ready, but found they closed up unless 
in water, which promptly made them expand again. 
I have always thought that “ everlastings *’ should 
be kept without water, so am at a loss to know how 
to manage, and do not want to lose my very good 
supply of Catananche.— Ethel Tike. 

Sanromatmn guttatum in the open —I saw 
quite a flue plant of this curious bulb hi a Surrey 
garden the other day. The bulb was put into an 
ordinary border and treated ns a common perennial. 
The plant bad some half-dozen sterns of a stout, suc¬ 
culent nature, and carried many fine palmate leaves. 
On each stem was a large, dark spatlie, one being 
fully It) inches in length. The plant had quite a noble 
appearance, and, whilst when flrst expanding the 
spathes emitted an unpleasant odour, that passed 
otf soon, and when I saw it no unpleasant smell was 
evident. The common Arum, or Nile Lily, so called, 
likes plenty of moisture, and even thrives well in a 
pond; but this tiauromatum docs well in ordinary 
garden soil.—D. 

Sowing seeds of perennials —It is not always 
understood how easily many of our best-known peren¬ 
nials may be raised from seed. Too often we think 
only of division as n means of increasing them, but 
raising them from seed should not be forgotten now. 
The present is a suitable time to begin. A cold 
frame is a convenient place, blit it is not absolutely 
necessary. Such things as Campanulas, Pyretbruins, 
Delphiniums, Cypsophila are not long in germinating, 
and to those who have not tried the experiment of 
getting a fresh stock, I venture to suggest sowing 
seed. Let the position he a sunny one on a border 
free from overhanging trees, and make the soil flue 
before scattering the seeds thinly.- WOODBASTWICR. 


CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 


DECORATIVE DISPLAY OF CHRYSAN¬ 
THEMUMS. 

H.\vino received much valuable help in the culture of 
my Chrysanthemums through the articles in (J arden- 
ino, and which has enabled me to take several lirst 
prizes in the amateurs’section at our local show, may I 
venture to ask if you would further assist pie? 1 
am contemplating competing for the decorative dis¬ 
play of Chrysanthemums (as per announcement en¬ 
closed), which is a new feature, and not having at¬ 
tempted anything of the kind before, should esteem 
it a great favour if you would give me details as to 
the way to make an effective arrangement of the 
flowers and foliage? I am growing some plants for 
large exhibition blooms, and some of the decorative, 
single and Pompon kinds. How could some or all 
of these types of the flower be used to best ad¬ 
vantage? What kind of foliage, easily obtainable 
in November, would be most suitable? What kind 
of vases would be necessary, and how ninny to fill a 
table 4 feet by 3 feet, which would stand back to a 
wall?- Richard Weston. 

[Your idea of the kinds or types of the 
flower to use is quite correct. A “decora¬ 
tive” display should embrace all types-or I 
as many as possible—of the Chrysanthemum. ' 
Large and attractive blooms arc needed, nnd 
freely-flowered sprays, as well as disbudded 
blossoms of the Pompons, singles, and the | 
smaller, but freely-flowered, Japanese kinds, 
should each be used. Tall vases should 
occupy the background of the arrangement, 
and we would rather use those of truin- , 
pet shape than any others. A large vase 
should be well elevated in the centre at the 
hack, with two others of less size one placed 
at either side of the table, at the back also, 
and 0 inches to 8 inches lower than the centre 
vase. Vases of varying size should be ar¬ 
ranged immediately below the vases at the 
back of the group, sloping down gradually 
and finishing off in front with small glasses 
capable of holding one large flower, or half-a- 
dozen blossoms of the Pompons or singles. | 
As fur as possible, let each receptacle contain 
one type of flower, and iT there is n sufficient 
quantity cf flowers available, arrange one 
variety only in each vase. The display is 
much more effective in this wav, ns good and 
distinct flowers of clear and striking colours 
are by far the b st. Most important, of all, 
do not crowd I lie flowers. Let each blossom 
speak for itself, and adjust, if so that all its 
good points may be seen with little or no 
trouble. The large vase in the centre at the 
hack of the table should be filled with some¬ 
thing striking, and at. intervals in the arrange 
incut good ami effective pieces of colour 
should, as far ns possible, stand out in sliik 
ing contrast to those immediately round 
about them. The single flowered sorts should 
help you immensely, and if the sprays of blos¬ 
soms be but partially disbudded, you will 
1 make a far prettier display than if they were 


Digitize 


rigidly disbudded, as so many exhibitors are 
prone to do. 

Should you prefer to use Bamboo stands 
for the back row instead of vases, you will 
find them, much easier of arrangement, and, 
possibly, more effective. They may be 
“dressed” to one side quickly, a tall stand 
should be placed in the centre of the back 
row, and two others of less height—one on 
either side. Vases, as in the original sugges¬ 
tion, should occupy the foreground. Of 
hardy foliage usually available in early No¬ 
vember is the following : —Fresh grow ths of 
nicely-tanned Scarlet Oak, Amp*'lops is in 
variety, coloured Bracken, Bcrberis in 
variety, and quite a number of pretty things 
that a ramble through a country lane will 
give an abundant supply of. Of greenhouse 
foliage, select bright green fronds of the 
Asparagus in variety, Ferns, Selaginellas in 
variety, and a good supply of stately spikes 
of the better Grasses, which should be 
gathered in the summer and carefully dried.] 


NOTES AND HE PLIES. 

Feeding Chrysanthemums. — Many 
growers appear to be under the impression 
that feeding should not commence until the 
buds have been retained. Growers should 
commence to feed their Chrysanthemums 
just when the roots seem to have got well 
hold of the soil/ nnd give evidence of this 
fact by the soil quickly drying. Few growers 
appear to be aware of the drain the vigorous 
roots are upon the small quantity of soil 
stored in the flowering pot, and unless means 
be taken to supplement the supply of food by 
the frequent application of liquid manure in 
one form or another, the plants very quickly 
begin to show signs of deterioration. Of 
course, no one would think of giving strong 
doses to commence with, as by doing so flam- 
age to the surface roots would soon take place, 
and the plants receive a check from which 
they would, probalv, never recover. It is a 
good pi Jin to begin with soot-water, and 
plants that, are quite dry nt the roots should 
first, be watered with clear water until they 
had got accustomed to the soot-water, when 
this should be regularly supplied. Soot- 
water is mad? by putting five peeks of Root 
in a bug and immersing this in 100 gallons of 
water. Those whose demands arc less heavy 
may place one pec k of soot in 20 gallons of 
water, and so on in proportion. Let the 
soot soak for fully 24 hours before using the 
soot-water. Fowl-manure may be used in the 
same proportions, but the plants must be 
gradually inured to its use by giving a weaker 
application in the first few instances. Guano 
is a most potent manure, nnd should be used 
cautiously. Two peeks in 60 gallons of water 
make an excellent, plant food, but this must, 
not be applied until the latter part, of August 
in most collections.—C. A. H. 


Some of the earliest varieties to flower. 

The early-flowering Chrysanthemums have 
come into bloom with a rush. We do not 
want, Chrysanthemums in bloom for quite 
another month, as there are so many liardv 
flowers to keep tlrj garden gay for a 
long time to come. Some of the eailiest 
kinds now in flower among the Japanese are 
the following: - Kitty, a free-flowering plant 
with a dense, compact habit, bearing flowers 
of a bright pink colour. This is a dwarf and 
sturdy plant, possessing a very strong consti¬ 
tution, and continues in bloom for quite a 
long period. Louis Lemaire is a rosy bronze 
sport, from Mona. Gustavo Grunerw’ald. and 
the flowers, being of good colour and form, 
do not appear to be out of place at, this 
period. Goaeher’s Crimson is full of buds, 
and promises to come into flower very soon. 
There are several other Japanese sorts that 
will he seen in blossom in a short time. 
Piercy's Seedling, that, fine old bronze- 
coloured Pompon sort, is doing extremely 
well just now. The plants arc* assuming 
! large proportions, making splendid bushes, 
and some of the buds are already showing 
colour. Salter's Early Blush, too. will soon 
b-‘ in bloom. The Chrysanthemums, after 
all, may si and us in good stead this year, 
especially should we have a bright autumn 
season, when the richness and varied char¬ 
acter of their colours never fail to interest 

^fTr' C ' A ' H '_ NO IS AT 


URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



August 10. 1007 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


313 



ROOM AND WINDOW. 

CARNATIONS AND PINKS FOR VASES. 
Nothing can bo more beautiful or more 
effective for vases than these popular mid 
very charming flowers, mid just at present 
they are in such great abundmice mid such 
infinite variety that an endless succession of 
pleasing arrangements run be secured with 
very little trouble, for these useful blossoms 
are very easy to arrange. In cutting Cam a 
turns care should be taken to select blooms 
on long stems, to see that the said blooms 
am quit? fresh, ami to exercise discriminn 
tion in the matter of the colours chosen. No 
foliage looks so well with them as their own, 
and the custom of using this need not become 
extravagant, as with proper attention to the 
ends of the stalks the slijm may be made to 
lost three weeks or even more. The numer¬ 
ous varieties of the fancy Grasses arc 
peculiarly well suited to mix with Carnations, 
especially Lagurua ovntus, Briza minima, 
Agrostis pulehella, A. nebu- 
losa, and Eragrostis ele- 
gans. The use of flower- 
buds is also to be recom¬ 
mended. and these, as well 
as the shoots, can be taken 
from single seedlings, thus 
saving the choicer varieties. 

1 have before m^ as I write 
a dull green Fern-pot of 
Devon pottery in quaint de¬ 
sign filled with blooms of a 
seedling very similar in 
colour and habit to Mrs. 

Reynolds Hole, loosely ar¬ 
ranged with its own foliage 
anil cloudy plumes of Agros¬ 
tis nebulosa. The effect is 
charming. 

In the successful arrange¬ 
ment of flowers for house 
decoration a great deal de¬ 
pends on the vase or pot. 

Broadly spenking, coloured 
glass vases are an ahomilla¬ 
tion. Venetian and Bohe¬ 
mian glasses are, of course, 
exceptions, also certain 
examples in delicate shades 
of yellow and green. The 
cheap and nnsty articles in 
vivid reds, blues, and un¬ 
healthy - looking mixtures 
are quite fatal to the beauty 
of nny flowers placed there¬ 
in. In my opinion, nothing 
can lK*at good clear glass or 
artistic pottery in subdued 
tints. In a glass vase I have 
just arranged a number of 
scarlet Carnations, judi¬ 
ciously mixed with white 
ones, this little group being 
intended for a dark corner, 
which it now brightens suc¬ 
cessfully. For cutting, the 
singles are by no means to 
be despised, and a pretty 
combination consists of a 
pink and white single mixed 
with Germania. Another very favourite 
mixture is Uriah Pike, or a similar maroon 
coloured flower, with Mrs. Leopold de Uotli 
schild or a similar Pink. As u rule I prefer 
the fancy varieties to he arranged by them¬ 
selves ; the seifs are by far the best for 
mixed arrangements and'then the most ele¬ 
gant effects can be obtained bv using two 
varieties only; three or more different kinds 
will almost inevitably give a garish effect. 

G. A. 


viewed under ordinary condition* in day¬ 
light, hut when seen under artificial light 
they are then much more effective; and if the 
arrangement of the flowers is done in an 
artistic manner, the effect is indescribably 
beautiful. Wild Grasses and the sprays of 
Gypsophilu or Otnphalodcs linifolia associate 
well with Sweet Peas, and some exceedingly 
pretty effects can be produced with their aid, 
always provided the arrangement is carried 
out with a light hand. Sumo useful con¬ 
trivances I have used for arranging Sweet 
Peas in this season are circular gluss discs 
about I inch in depth, and varying from 
*J.J inches to 3$ inches in diameter. These 
discs arc perforated with holes \ inch in dia¬ 
meter, and distant from each other j inch. 
To enable the flowers to obtain the neces¬ 
sary amount of moisture, the discs fit into 
glass saucers, which, if half filled with water, 
will keep flowers fresh for three or four 
hours in the hottest of rooms. If necessary, 
thri'e or four flower-steins or flowers and 
Grasses, as the case mav be, can be inserted 


Cut flowers of Carnations in a vase. 


in each hole, if desired. In any ease, once 
the arrangement is completed, nothing short 
of upsetting the saucers can cause any dis¬ 
arrangement. The flowers can also he inado 
to look far more natural in these contrivances 
than in any ordinary vase; and. as both the 
saucers and discs are of clear glass, they arc 
unobtrusive on a white cloth, and can bo 
used for arranging other flowers in besides 
Sweet Peas.—A. W. 


XOTES AXD REPLIES. 

Sweet Pea Gladys Unwin. -Among the 
numerous varieties of Sweet Peas now in 
cultivation, tht* one named above is. I think, 
th? loveliest of all for dinner-table decora¬ 
tion. There are. of course, other varieties, 
whose colours are beautiful and attractive, 
but in my opinion they lack that lovely soft 
shade which renders Gladys Unwin so 
charming for the purpose named. The 
robust, bandsomely-formpd^ soft pink flowers 
of this variety are I I 

Digitize: 




Sowing Honesty seed The time when the pod* 
may he (lathered H nbo the time when heed fhould 
he not in. Seed may lie sown on uny sunny bonhr 
of light soil, pricking the plants out as soon as ready, 
and getting them into their quarters for bloomiug by 
the autumn.— Leaiiirst. 

Cobcea scandens in the open, keeping (A. J. 

Carson).-This is quite safe hi an unhealed house, 
and in your district (Bournemouth) ought to live dur 
mg the winter, more especially as jou sny the po.-j. 
lion is well protected. You might put a little loose 
litter or Coeoa-Rhre over the routs. Cover over the 
roots of the Eccremocarpus during the winter, and 
no hurm will romc to it. The Riguonia is quite hardy, 
and will not he injured in any way. 


VEGETABLES. 

TOMATOES FOR WINTER. 
Where Tomatoes »re wanted for salads or 
for using uncooked throughout the year, the 
preparation of young plants for fruiting dur¬ 
ing early winter must now he taken in hand, 
as it will not do to depend on laggard fruits 
which are picked from the outdoor plants 
while still unripe, uml coloured up under glnss 
after being picked, as such fruits, though 
valuable for cooking, are generally insipid and 
flavourless, or bndlv flavoured. Even where 
the cultivation of Tomatoes goes on under 
glass throughout the year, it is no uncommon 
thing to find that, those grown for winter are 
under-sized mid not so good as they might 
be ; not. because they are of a naturally small 
variety, but because they are the fag-end of a 
crop borne by plants which have already 
carried and ripened many fruits, nnd become 
somewhat starved in the process. My experi- 
ence is that plants raised from seed sown now 
will be much more satisfactory than any 
such, as there is still time to get a nice set 
of fruit before the days get short and the hiiii 
loses much of its power, and such plants are 
well suited for growing in narrow pits where 
there is nut much room for great length of 
stem. 

The production of winter Tomatoes some¬ 
times gives considerable trouble. es|»eeiallv 
ill places where fogs are prevalent or where 
the houses are badly ventilated, or low- 
pitched structures deficient of light. In such 
places the only chniito of success is to get 
the plants established in their fruiting pots 
or boxes, and the fruit set curly, governing 
the season of ripening by judicious manage¬ 
ment of the heating arrangements, always re¬ 
membering that Tomatoes will resent nny un¬ 
due forcing in winter. Those who are for¬ 
tunate enough to have very light and well- 
ventilated houses especially if these are well 
above the fog line, will escape many of the 
difficulties which beset less fortunate growers. 
There will lie no difficultv in keeping plants 
raised now sturdy from the first, and this is 
the most important point which the grower 
has to bear in mind. Seed, if sown in the 
usual way i.r ,, think in pots or pans, nnd 
stood in a little gentle heat will soon ger 
minnte. The seedlings should he potted off 
into 3 inch pots, from which they will require 
one shift before being finally potted into the 
fruiting size- 9 inches, or planted in narrow 
boxes. Grow on from the first in full sun, 
with the pots stood thinly on a cool bottom 
of coal-ashes. I like to give the final shift 
just when the first hunch of flowers shows, 
as if left later than this the plants do not get 
re-established before the blossoms open, and 
these will then drop off instead of setting. 
For soil nothing rich should he used, but I 
like to give a liberal quantity of mortar 
rubble at the final shift, this keeping the 
soil swe^t and tin* plants healthy. Plants 
mav also be raised from cuttings struck now 
and treated afterwards as recommended for 
seedlings, but I prefer seedlings, as I find 
them quite ns free fruiting, swelling their 
fruits more kindly and being less trouble¬ 
some throughout. P. 

DEFOLIATING TOMATOES. 

Is it right to take halt the lower leave* of Tomatoes 
alt when they have set three bunches of fruit? My 
employer *«>* it is the worst thing that can )»<■ *i*on-. 
My object in doing so was to let the sun in. and also 
that all the strength should go to the fruit.—<)i fry. 

[Cutting the leaves from Tomato plants, 
although necessary under certain conditions, 
should not he practised by rule-of-tliumb. 
The foliage nets ns n channel for conducting 
the sap to the fruit, nlthough in eases of extra 
luxuriance the leaves assimilate the whole of 
the nourishment, nnd the fruit, even though 
it may set. usually fails to swell. On rnm- 
pant plants partial defoliation is beneficial, 
cutting every alternate leaf half way three 
parts of the wav up the plants, serving those 
that are left entire in the same manner in 
ten days’ time ; this will check growth gener¬ 
ally, rendering the formation of fruitful 
trusses of flower more probable. When, 
however, the plants make only a normal 
growth and fruit freely, tne less the knife is 

uscdJftii^bR9l3i<>ufc|t&IN®i&A 8 it 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 















314 


GARDENING ILLULTRATED. 


August 10, 1907 


should be borne in mind that, ift addition to 
supplying the fruit with food, it nets as a 
protection against hot sun, the latter some¬ 
times burning or blistering the fruit when 
growing on extra hot south walls, some sorts 
taking barm sooner than others. As autumn 
approaches und the fruit has swelled to its 
fullest, relieving the plants of leaves which 
hang immediately over the fruit is often im¬ 
perative in order to give it a chance of ripen¬ 
ing before frost sets in ; indeed, some good 
growers then use the knife somewhat freely, 
their contention being that as the laying on 
of pulp has ceased, maturation by leaf de¬ 
foliation is warrantable. This, of course, 
refers to open-air plants. The best way of 
guarding against excessive leafage and of re¬ 
ducing the need of defoliation to a minimum 
is to grow the plants in a manure free soil 
from the first, and to assist with stimulants 
after the fruit is set.] 

NOTES' AND HE PLIES. 
Tomatoes under glass. There i« a poor 
prospect this season for outdoor Tomatoes, 
and this will make the indoor crop more pro¬ 
fitable. The price now is higher than is 
usual at tfiis season, and everything possible 
should Ik* done to keep the indoor plants 
healthy and well nourished. Where the plants 
are bearing heavily, a top-dressing will l>c 
found useful, and w ill give the necessary fillip 
to the swelling fruit. In my view, it is bet¬ 
ter than strong liquid stimulants. The roots 
work into the top-dressing, and are much 
benefited thereby. It saves labour in water¬ 
ing, as it holds up the moisture just where 
it is wanted. Constant watering is not good 
for anything. Let the plants find the food 
in the soil, and they will benefit from the 
effort of searching for it. Incessant watering 
cracks and spoils the fruits. We find Moss- 
litter manure very useful as a mulch. 

Endives will never take the place of Let¬ 
tuce; yet, proving much hardier, they are in¬ 
dispensable where salads arc in daily request 
during winter and early spring, as a few 
leaves, when blanched, certainly add to 
the salad bowl, along with the greener leaves 
of the Lettuce. I like to make two or three 
sowings from the first week in July up to the 
second week in August, transplanting the 
seedlings, when fit, 15 inches apart each way. 
The drills should be well moistened a few 
hours before sowing, and a piece of ground 
cleared of Potatoes will form a suitable site. 
For early work I prefer the Moss-curled En¬ 
dive, as this does not, as a rule, withstand 
our winters so well as the Round or Broad- 
leaved varieties. Unlike Lettuces, Endives 
do not blanch unless they are kept dark, so 
that some means must be adopted to do this, 
which is a simple matter while in the ground. 
Cover each plant with nil 8-inch flower-pot, 
after placing a piece of raffia around the outer 
leaves, treating the required number each 
week. When hard frost threatens, the plants 
must be taken up carefully and placed in a 
dark shed, cellar, or a Mushroom-house, 
where blanching will take place in about a 
fortnight. Those who have orchard-houses, 
brick-pits, or similar structures, may lift the 
entire stock, and afford shelter in severe win¬ 
ters. and by introducing a few plants weekly 
into either of such places as above mentioned 
a regular supply can he kept up. Slugs arc 
not so partial to Endive as they are to Let- 
t u ee. - J. M A V N B, If it; ton. 

Kitchen garden notes for autumn. 
Those who have had many years’ experience 
in supplying the daily wants of a private 
family know how desirable it is to have suf¬ 
ficient green crops to carry on till the next 
midsummer. 1 would advise all to sow 
Spinach at two or three different times be¬ 
tween the end of July and Michaelmas-day. 
Frequently the season varies so much that a 
single sowing may disappoint. Nothing was 
more useful during March and early April 
than Chou de Burgnley, sown at the close of 
June. Last year Broccoli (late kinds) plan¬ 
ted late gave better results than large, coarse, 
early - planted ones. Sprouting Broccoli 
planted during the first half of August was 
the best. Those not having much apace may 
often prick out a few plants, planting them 
when Potatoes, etc., are taken up. Lettuces 
should be planted^ander warm wills to carry 
on till the new ytor.—1C* 


GARDEN WORK. 


Conservatory. —Sow Mignonette in 5-inch 
or 6-inch pots for autumn flowering in equal 
parts good loam and leaf mould, with a little 
old cow-manure, if available, adding a little 
old mortar, soot, arid sand to keep the stuff 
open and sweet. Drain the pots well, and 
ram the soil firm ; sow the seeds thinly, place 
in a cold-frame very freely ventilated, as we 
only want to keep off heavy rains. When 
the young plants are lip. thin to five in each 
pot. Pot Freesias as soon as the bulbs come 
to hand, about ten or twelve in a 5-inch 
pot, and place in cold-frame, with the lights 
off for the present. The earliest Narcissi 
should soon be potted. iT early flowers arc 
wanted. The old double Daffodil is one of 
the earliest to bloom, and. if potted now, 
will b* in flower at Christmas, with only 
moderate forcing. The Chimney Campanula 
(C. pyramidalis) .will soon be coming into 
flower, and will be useful in a-cool conserva¬ 
tory. This may he propagated either by 
division of the root crowns or from seeds 
sown in May. The strongest plants will 
flower the second year, if well managed. 
There should he no lack of flowers now, and 
among tin* odds and ends of things which in 
spire interest are Gloxinias, AchimemtJ, and 
Ktroptocarpi. Lilies also will Im* abundant 
now, especially L. auratum and L. land- 
folium. Climbers should not be |x*rmittcd 
to form too dense a canopy, as the days arc 
now shortening, and more light will he 
wanted. Any. painting required in glass 
structures should bo done now, whilst the 
plants may safely be placed outside, but wc 
find the conservatory always a difficult house 
to arrange for painting inside, and have 
generally had such done in winter, when the 
climbers are pruned hack. Such things as 
Camellias and other permanent plants in the 
borders can he covered with tiffany or can 
vas, hut very often a good wash with soap 
and warm water will take the place of paint 
inside, and a good washing should he given 
once or twice a year, anyway. Liquid-manure 
may bo given to everything which has filled 
the pots with roots, and all well rooted plants 
in the border may have it also. Dead leaves 
or faded flowers should he removed at sight. 
Look closely after the watering. The house 
should not be closed. 

Stove. This is n ripening time for flower¬ 
ing plants, and. therefore, for the present 
ventilation may be free. There are, of course, 
always flowers in the stove where a fairly 
good collection of plants is grown. At the 
present time the house should l>o bright 
with Allamundns. Clerodendrons, Hibiscus. 
Ixoras, and Koudcletia speciosa major is 
nearly always in flower. Strclitzia Regime, 
a curious old plant, rather rare, except in 
old-fashioned gardens, is. or should be, in 
flower now, and the Torcnias in several 
varieties are bright now. T. asiatiea is a free- 
growing purple flowered basket plant. It, is 
an old plant, but is very effective in a 
basket, as is also Russellia jiincea, another 
old plant which has pretty well disappeared. 
Some day these old things will come out 
again, and he made a fuss of. Many of the 
old plants that were grown well forty or fifty 
years ago are superior to tin* plants grown 
now. 

Early vinery. -Any Grapes left in this 
house may he cut with 6 inches or 8 inches of 
wood, bottled, and placed in a cool room. 
Ripe Grapes which are left, hanging on tin* 
Vines should be shaded-after so much dull 
weather, or they will lese colour and fresh¬ 
ness. This is tlie time when wasps usually 
make their appearance, and, if permitted to 
enter the house, they will soon do much dam¬ 
age. for they are good judges of fruit, and 
begin upon the best first. The best course 
is to keep them out by tacking tiffany or can¬ 
vas over the open lights. The ventilators 
may be left open now till the Grapes are cut. 
Where possible, clean straw should be placed 
over the inside borders, to cln ek evaporation 
and keep down dust. After the Grapes are 
all cut. give all the air possible, and 
thoroughly wash the foliage. 

Orchard-house. —As fast as the fruits ary 
gathered place the tree* outside, Wher?- 


Cherries are grown in pots, even the late 
varieties will now have been gathered, or, at 
least, will be ripe. There must be no neglect 
in the watering, or the roots will suffer. If 
any of the trees require repotting, some 
good loam should Ik* secured with the fibre in 
it, and kept in readiness for repotting or top¬ 
dressing in September. Those which do not 
require larger pots should have a good deal 
of the old soil picked out, the space filled up 
with fresh compost, and made firm. Late 
Peaches should have all the ventilation pos¬ 
sible now, and not too much water when the 
fruits are ripening. 

Propagating bedding-plants.— This 1ms 
to he done as opportunity serves, and cut¬ 
tings can be obtained, especially as regards 
Pelargoniums—I am assuming the plan for 
next soaso i’s planting has been thought over, 
and a calculation as to stuck required worked 
out. Many gardeners have their hands tied 
because they cannot cut the plants in the 
beds just yet, and in such cases some «if tin* 
old plants' have to be potted up or boxed 
later. Cuttings will strike with more cer¬ 
tainty now than later. All the soft things, 
such as Heliotropes, Verbenas, etc., will be 
placed in a frame and kept close, except for 
an hour or two in the morning, and a thin 
shade used in bright sunshine. Cuttings 
may be rooted in boxes, pots, or pans. When 
I have been short of space 1 have used boxes, 
and when there was plenty of shelf-room 
near the glass placed the cuttings in 5 inch 
pots. Pelargonium cuttings do best in the 
open air. and it is best not to crowd the 
cuttings in the pots or boxes. They will keep 
best through the winter if rooted in sandy 
soil made firm. If very light stuff is used, 
they dry quickly, the growth runs up weakly, 
and 'they are not so satisfactory. Pelar¬ 
gonium cuttings should not be over-watered. 

Cold-frames. These will be very useful 
for many purposes, especially for growing 
Cvelnniens, Cinerarias. Calceolarias, and 
Primulas. They should, if possible, be 
turned round to face the north, to obviate so 
much shading. All kinds of plants may lie 
struck in cold frames, except Pelargoniums, 
which are better outside; and, of course, 
stove plants must have warmth in the bed, 
to eneourag* root formation. Usually spare 
frames mv filled with Cucumbers, which do 
well in them. 

Outdoor garden. - After so much cold, 
damp weather, if we get, hot. bright sun¬ 
shine, things in the borders will want help, 
to counteract the heat and drought. If you 
cannot mulch with manure, keep the surface 
loose by hoeing. To keep Roses in condition, 
and help late blooms, give liquid-manure 
twice a week, and stir up the surface early 
next morning, after watering. The same 
treatment will suit Sweet Peas and all other 
plants now producing flowers or approaching 
that condition. Madonna Lilies, if moved 
at all, should have attention as soon ns tin* 
flower sterns have ripened, but if the plants 
are doing well do not move them, lfeinero- 
eallis nmaiitiaca major makes a striking 
group in the border, and tin* flowers ar more 
lasting thrill in the type. Plants of this are 
now getting cheaper. Another useful yellow 
plant for rutting will be found in Rudisrkia 
laciniata flore-pleno, formerly called Golden 
Glow. There are some very big things now 
in Chrysanthemum leucanthcuium (Moon 
Daisies). Mrs. Charles Lothian Bell has 
very large flowers. These Moon Daisies 
should be grown thinly ami divided often, as 
they grow strongly. The old autumn-flower¬ 
ing variety, uliginosum, if grown in sheltered 
places, is useful for cutting in October, as 
the wind soon spoils it. 

Fruit garden.— Give liquid manure to 
alpine Strawberries, but let it be clear. 
Forced Strawberries that were planted for a 
late crop will soon be showing bloom. Re¬ 
move nil runners, and water, if dry. A mulch 
of litter will be necessary to keep the fruit 
clean. In every garden where the Goose¬ 
berries are free from disease, all bushes re¬ 
quired should be propagated at home, as it is 
risky buying young Gooseberry bushes now. 
Those who have charge of large private gar- 
dens in the country ought to keep free from 
it. but in suburban gardens, unless great care 
is used, the disease may spread in the same 




August 10, 1007 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


315 


way art the American blight is spreading in 
the suburbs. The best way to deal with 
American blight now is to keep a small brush 
and a wide-mouthed bottle of paraffin handy, 
and touch up all the white, fluffy spots. 
Winter dressing alone will not suffice, as the 
insects retire to the roots when cold weather 
comes. Continue the summer pruning, and 
if the weather comes hot and dry, use the 
hose or the garden engine. Trees on warm, 
south walls may require water, but early 
Peaches ripening will not require water, as 
it will injure the flavour. Remove surplus 
shoots from Raspberries and Logan Berries. 
Autumn bearing Raspberries should have 
support to keep the fruit off the ground. 


house, to be ready for work next month. We 
are relying at present upon outside beds. 
Sowed a lot of Fern spores of various kinds, 
freshly gathered from plants in cool-house. 

August 17th .—Shifted on young Palms, 
chiefly Kentias. Re arranged conservatory, 
filling up with Celosias, Balsams, and other 
things coming into bloom. Filled baskets 
with Asparagus Sprengeri and A. pliimosus. 
All flower-buds are pinched off Zonal Pelar 
goniums intended for flowering in winter. 
Potted off a lot of seedling Clivias. Older 
plants have been^plaeed outside to rest and 
ripen. Repotted earliest Arum Lilies and 
placed on a coal-ash bed in open position. 


Vegetable garden. —Fetch up all arrears 
of planting. In most places the late planted 
Broccoli and other greens often fail, but 
where the plants were pricked out and are 
now strong, if moved with care they w ill suc¬ 
ceed. They must be well watered till the 
roots get to work. Sow Turnips freely; 
also salading of all kinds. It is better to 
sow these little and often. Some of the 
plants may be left to develop in the seed-bed, 
merely thinning them to 10 inches or 
12 inches. There is much value in a couple 
of inches of short manure os a mulch. Make 
up Mushroom-beds in the open air in a cool, 
shady spot. The ridge form is suitable for 
open-air beds. If the manure is fresh, mix 
with it about a fourth or fifth part of good 
loam, blending the whole together. This 
saves time, and there is less danger of over¬ 
heating. Beds in bearing must have water 
when required. A tablespoonful of salt in 
cadi gallon of water will have a stimulating 
effect. Gather all pods from Peas and Bonus 
os soon as large enough. This will give the 
plants time to produce a second crop. Plant 
an early kind of dwarf French or Kidney 
Bean on the warm border. These will hear 
late, and may be protected iT there is frost. 

E. Hob da v. 

THE COMING WEEK'S WORK. 

Extracts from a Garden, Diary. 

August 12tli. —Dwarf Briers are being 
budded close to the soil. If the bark does 
not work freely, a little soil is removed from 
the base, to find soft, pliable bark. Sowed 
seeds of Centaurea rngusina. This is a very 
useful wliite-foliaged plant, and suitable for 
edgings to large beds. Seeds sown now in 
pots or boxes will make good plants in spring. 
Cuttings of various plants are now being put 
in. Myrtles will root now under the north 
wall in sandy soil kept moist. 

August 13th. —Made a further sowing of 
Cabbage seeds. Faded flowers are removed 
from Roses, and liquid manure given freely 
to help late blooms. Strong Roses in 5-inch 
pots that w’ere grafted early have been shifted 
mto 6 inch pots for autumn and early winter 
flowering, and plunged in a leaf bed outside. 
The ties have been loosened on the early- 
budded standard Briers. All newly planted 
Strawberries arc watered, and the surface 
mulched with short manure. 


August 71/fh. —Azaleas and other hard- 
wooded plants are now in a sheltered place 
outside ; watering and syringing are w r ell 
looked after. Second crown-bmls of Chrys¬ 
anthemums which show after this date w : ili 
be secured. Liquid-manure will be given to 
plants which have filled the pots with roots. 
Made a sowing of several kinds of Onions, in¬ 
cluding Ailsa Craig and Magnum Bonum. 
Put in a lot of cuttings of Ivies and Golden¬ 
leaved Euonymus. 

August 15th. —Pulled up Onions and laid 
them out to harvest. Shallots and Garlic 
have also been treated in a similar way. 
Several large evergreens have been prepared 
for moving next year by digging a trench 
round, 2$ feet from the stem, cutting the roots 
to cause new fibres to start into growth. We 
have never had a failure with trees or shrubs 
so prepared. Pricked off Pansies, Violas, 
and other hardy plants raised from seeds. 

August lfith.— Insects on Plum-trees have 
been dealt with by sprnying with an insecti¬ 
cide. Mulched several beds of Asters with 
old Mushroom manure. Made up several 
Mushroom-beds outside, and thoroughly 
cleaned and lime washed'^"* J ” ■■ 

Diqito 


Jiae, ^ and thoroughly 


LAW AND CUSTOM. 

DAMAGE TO GARDENS AND GARDEN 
FENCES. 

The time of year is now coming on when 
the owners of gardens experience loss ami in¬ 
jury at the hands of the cheap tripper and 
the marauder under various types, and a 
short article explanatory of the law on the 
subject may, therefore, be appropriate at this 
season. It is a general principle of law that 
every man has a right to do whatever lie 
thinks fit to protect his own property, so long 
ns he does not interfere with the legal rights 
of his neighbours. It may b 2 said that there 
are two ways in which damage may be done — 
one is deliberate and wilful injury, such as 
persons of the cheap tripper type commit, 
and the other consists of mischief done by a 
man in the belief that he is entitled to do 
such damage. As an exajnplc of the last-men¬ 
tioned form of damage may be instanced the 
case of a man who is annoyed by the fact 
that his neighbour has allowed his trees or 
hedge to grow up to an unreasonable height; 
the person who is complaining may go and 
cut the hedge under the mistaken belief that 
he is entitled to do so, whereas lie is only 
legally entitled to cut such portions of the 
overhanging trees or hedge as actually come 
over his own garden, and he is not entitled 
to cut the toppings. Even in this case he 
must be careful what he does, because the 
act may become malicious if it is shown that 
more damage has been wilfully done than is 
necessary to assert the legal claim or right. 

The whole subject of wilful damage is dealt 
with by the Malicious Damage Act. 1861, 
under the provisions of which all damage 
done wilfully or maliciously to property of 
any sort, whether it be public property or 
private property, is punishable by fines or ini 
prisonment, as the case may be. By “mali¬ 
ciousness” is understood deliberate intention 
with knowledge of wrong-doing, as dis¬ 
tinguished from innocence or accident. There 
must 1x5 something deliberately done or in¬ 
tended to have been done, without lawful 
excuse. 

It should 1x5 clearly understood that it. is 
not necessary, in order to sustain a convic¬ 
tion under this Act, that there should be 
proved malice towards or intention to dam¬ 
age the owner of the property. All that is 
necessary to prove is that the act in question 
lias been done wilfully and with the know¬ 
ledge that it would cause damage. 

It is also a general principle that where a 
man commits ail unlawful net and there are 
no circumstances which will justify the act, 
the law will presume that the man acted 
knowingly, and with deliberate intention of 
producing the consequence which he did pro¬ 
duce. A former Lord Chief Justice has laid 
it down that no man can shelter himself from 
punishment on the ground that the mischief 
he committed was wider in its consequence 
than he originally intended. Thus, supposing 
a man to deliberately set fire to Grass, in¬ 
tending only to burn a small area, and that 
the fire should extend to a wood and burn 
down the treeB contrary to what the man ex¬ 
pected would, and intended should, happen, 
he will, nevertheless, be liable. 

The Act provides (Section 25) that “whoso¬ 
ever shall unlawfully and maliciously cut, 
pluck, throw down, or in any way destroy 
any fence of any description whatsoever, or 
any wall, stile, or gate, or any part thereof, 
shall be liable, on conviction, to be fined £5 
for the first offence, besides paying the cofit 


of the damage done, and for the second offence 
to undergo twelve months’ hard labour.” 

By Section 23 special provision is made for 
protecting gardens: “Whosoever shall un¬ 
lawfully and maliciously destroy or damage, 
with intent to destroy, any plant, root, fruit, 
or vegetable product growing in a garden, 
orchard, nursery, hot house, greenhouse, or 
conservatory, shall be liable to pay the 
amount of damage, and to be fined not more 
than £20, or to be sent to prison for six 
months, with hard labour.” Heavier penal¬ 
ties are provided for second and subsequent 
offences. 

Section 24 deals with plants, etc., growing 
elsewhere than in gardens. It provides that 
“whosoever shall unlawfully and maliciously 
destroy or damage, with intent to destroy, 
any cultivated root or plant used for the food 
of man, or beast., or for medicine, or for dis¬ 
tilling. or for dyeing, or for or in the course 
of any manufacture, and glowing on any land, 
open or enclosed, not being a garden, 
orchard, or nursery ground, shall be liable to 
one month’s imprisonment, or a fine of 20s., 
in addition to paying the cost, and for a sub 
sequent offence may 1x5 sent to prison for six 
months, with hard labour.” 

Sections 20, 21, and 22 deal with damage 
to plants, shrubs, and underwood. The first- 
named deals with damage to such things when 
growing in a garden, and provides suitable 
penalties for cutting, breaking, barking, root¬ 
ing out, or otherwise destroying or damaging 
the whole or any part of any tree, sapling, 
shrub, or underwood growing in any park, 
pleasure-ground, or avenue, or in any grounds 
adjoining or belonging to any dwelling-house 
when the amount of the injury done exceeds 
£1. Section 21 deals similarly with damage 
to plants, etc., growing elsewhere than in 
grounds adjoining houses and where the 
amount of damage done exceeds £5. Sec¬ 
tion 22 is more comprehensive still. It denis 
with damage to trees, shrubs, etc., wherever 
growing, provided the injury done amounts 
to Is. at least, and for this offence the penalty 
may b? three months’ hard labour or a fine 
of £5 for the first offence, with twelve months’ 
hard labour for a second offence. 

There are various other Acts of Parliament 
which have been passed for the protection of 
public gardens. Such Acts are the Gardens 
in Towns Protection Act, 1863, and the 
Metropolis Local Management Act, 1855. 
Under these and similar enactments police- 
constables may apprehend persons for throw¬ 
ing rubbish into public gardens or trespassing 
thereon, or stealing or damaging the flowers 
or plants. Again, the particular offence of 
setting fire to crops of hay or grain, or to 
any cultivated vegetable produce, or to plan¬ 
tations, or to Gorse, Fern, etc., is punish¬ 
able under the Malicious Damage Act with 
heavy penalties, and the punishment is not 
only confined to eases in which the attempt is 
successful, but there are punishments equal 
in severity for persons who try to do this, 
although they may not 1x5 successful. 

Barrister. 


Tenant removing unripe fruit (T. 11. j— 

l suppose you mean a weekly or monthly 
tenant of an ordinary cottage arid garden — 
not a tenant coming under the Market Gar¬ 
deners’ Compensation Act, or any similar 
statute? Certainly they must not remove 
fruit in the way von describe, nor must they 
do any other wilful damage; and if they are 
guilty of such conduct you can sue them for 
the amount of the damage done. You say 
they “agreed to keep the garden in order,” 
but you do not say whether there was a writ¬ 
ten agreement or merely a verbal undertak¬ 
ing to do so. I fear you will have some diffi¬ 
culty in compelling them to leave it in a tidy 
condition ; but there should be no difficulty 
in obtaining a remedy for wanton mischief. 
I do not gather from your letter whether 
they have left or are only about to leave, 
and I should think, under all circumstances, 
the beat, plan would be for vour solicitor to 
write them on the matter.— Barrister. 


Fruit R9nch<sjr In Canada. Wanted, a few 
superior young Britisher*, with at least £20 each. to clear 
the land and earn their own 10-acre ranches. High wages, 
good society. ant* excellent climate. Apply--'"R akchTTSG." 

cfwo of Bmiuh E. T-y. Society, yewtngton, Liverpool. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



316 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


August 10, 1907 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

Questions.— Queries and answers are inserted in 
Gardening free of charge if cor respondents follow these 
rules: All communications should lie cUarlg and concisely 
written on one side of the paper only, and addressed to 
the Editor of G ardening, 17, Fumical-slrcct, Ilolbom, 
London, E.C. Letters on business should be sent, to the 
PiMiLiHllKR. The name and address of the sender are 
required in addition to any designation he may desire to 
be used in the. paper. When more than one query is sent , 
each should be on a separate piece of paper, and not more 
than three queries shoidd be sent at a time. Correspon¬ 
dents should bear in mind that, as Gardening has to be 
sent to press some time in advance of date . queries cannot 
always be replied to in the issue immediately following 
the receipt of their communication. We do not reply to 
queries by post. 

Naming flowers, shrubs, etc.— Fair examples 
qf each subject—i.e , leaves and shoots as well as flowers 
and fruit—if to be. had, must be sent. When more 
than one plant is sent each should be. numbered. If 
these rides are not complied with, subjects cannot be 
named correctly. 

Naming fruit.— The differences between varieties 
of fruits are in many cases so trifling that it is necessary 
that, three examples showing the range of form of each 
kind should be sent. Not more than four varieties at a 
time should be sent. 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

Gypsophila elegans (Shavio ).-Those who re¬ 
quire quantities of Gypsophila will find this aud G. 
pani.ulata worthy of attention. If several sowings 
of G. elegans. the first early in April, are made, a 
supply can be kept up till G. paniculata romes in. 
whilst a late sowing will come in after the peren¬ 
nial sort is over. 

Roses for new bed ( 6 '. II. II .).—We are afraid 
your conditions are too exacting. Where a Hose 
would have fragrance it' might not he free-flowering, 
or it might be free, yet badly addicted to mildew. 
The following selection approaches as near as pos¬ 
sible to your desires .—Hybrid Perpeluals: Com¬ 
mandant Felix Faure, Hugh Dickson, Mrs. John 
Laing, Ulrich Brunner. Comte de Kaimbaud, Captain 
Hayward, Senateur Vnissc, Ella Gordon, Charles 
Lefebvre, Dr. Andry, Dupuy Jamain, and Oberhof- 
gartner A. Singer. Hybrid Tens: I’harisaer, Mine. 
Edrnce Metz. Augustine Guinoisseau, Dr. J. Campbell 
Hall. Earl of Warwick. La France. George Laing 
Paul, Mine. Abel Clmtenay, Mine. Charles do Luzo, 
Mmc. Jules Grolcz, Mamie, Gladys Darkness, and 
John Ruskin. 

Planting Romneya Coulter! (.1. Donovan). - 
You had better wait until April before you think of 
moving the plant. Give it a position where the 
morning sun w ill fall upon it, ami where, shaded by a 
wall or the like, it may get shelter for the rest of the 
dav. If your soil is heavy, you had best take out a 
hole 24 fed deep and 24 feet wide, putting in 
6 inches of drainage, such as brick-bats, etc., and 
over this till in with loam, leaf-soil-the latter half 
decayed-in equal parts. A small addition of peat 
may be given, but it is not absolutely essential 
Plenty of sharp sand, a little old mortar rubbish, and 
about one-sixth of the whole or very oldI manure 
should also he added. Mix all together. The plant 
rejoices in a deep bed of rich soil and plenty of 
moisture during grow th, with good drainage. I he 
growth should rise into full sunlight, but the ground 
should be protected from strong sun. 

Chrysanthemums in 3-incli pots (A. It. 
White ).-Your plants are in a very backward condi¬ 
tion. if they are still in 3-inch pots and only 8 inches 
high; and we hesitate to advise you to * stop 
them, unless wc know what you wish to do with 
them. Wc will, therefore, make two suggestions. 
The first is to pot up the plants at once into 6 -incn 
pots and flower them on single stems, retaining the 
first bud that develops in the apex of the shoots. 
By these means you may enable each of your plants 
to produce a large bloom of good quality in late 
October or November next. Should you prefer to 
have a free display of smaller decorative blossoms 
in December next, pinch out the tip of each plant, 
and grow on the resulting shoots to the terminal 
buds. Slightly thin out the latter when they ap¬ 
pear and bright and interesting blossoms on dwarf 
plants should be in evidence in the dull winter season. 
Bit her method has its advantages, and it is fur >ou 
to choose the one you prefer. 

Propagating Clematises {Brackens). — These 
charming flowers arc mostly propagated by grafting, 
but the stronger slock used often overcomes the 
graft. The Clematis is readily propagated from cut¬ 
tings. In doing so select a shoot with side growths 
that have flowered. Remove the side growths when 
a little more than half ripened. Insert closely to¬ 
gether in a 0 -inch pot. using a compost of loam, leaf- 
soil, and sand in equal proportions. Water well, and 


keep under a cl 6 ehe or bell-glass until rooted. A 
temperature of 00 degs., with care to avoid any rapid 
rise beneath the glass from sun-heat, is most suitable. 
You can also use younger shoots, but these are more 
apt to damp olT than those made ns first recom¬ 
mended. Another method is by layering, lake a 
shoot at least three parts ripened, and lay this down 
in the ordinary way. Beneath each pair of eyes, or 
each second pair, make a “tongue by cutting half- 
wav through the growth, and slipping the knife up 
some inch or two towards the base of the eyes or 
joint. In this place a small piece of charcoal or 
sandstone to assist in keeping it open, l’eg down 
upon a light compost- of randy loam, nnd cover 
over with a very little of the same. New growths 
will push up, roots be made, and the young plants 
can be severed after the shoots are 6 inched or 
so high. Of course, pay due care to ascertain whether 
roots" are formed In sufficient number or not before 
removal. Some variejj^ root much mgre freely than 

“KSitizrtb, Go* I 


umber or nt 
uch more fn 

•gle 


Pruning forced Roses {Thornhill).— As a rule, 
three months should be allowed from the pruning to 
the blossoming, so that if you desire your Roses to 
flower at end of year or early in January you should 
prune them about the end of September. If the 
plants are well established, and have not been re¬ 
potted lately, this operation should be done at once, 
if required. Wc say if required, for unless a pot Rose 
lias abundance of roots and the pot is practically 
tilled with roots, it does not want repotting. A good 
top-dressing in this latter case would be best. This 
should be done as soon as the Roses are pruned. 
About an inch of the surface soil is removed with a 
pointed stick, taking care not to injure the small 
roots oil the surface, and this, inch of soil is replaced 
with some good compost, consisting of loam, leaf-soil 
(if available), well rotted manure in equal parts, and 
a 0 -incli potful of hone-meal to each harrowful of 
compost. It is advisable to dry off the plants a 
month before pruning them. This can be done by 
laying the pots on their sides in the open or putting 
them into a cold frame. We may say, it is rather 
late to repot Roses intended to force* so early, as 
this work is best done in June. If you do repot., it 
would he best to bloom the plants somewhat later- 
say, in March. 

TREES AND SHRUBS. 

Buddleia Rlobosa pruning (£. R. C .).—We arc 
assuming that this is the variety about which you 
inquire, in which ease pruning may be done imme¬ 
diately it has done flowering, so that it may recover 
before the winter. The less pruning it gets, however, 
the better. To allow the young growths room, you 
may cut out a few of the old and exhausted shoots. 

The Tulip tree (Liriodendron tulipiferum) {II. 
Greening ).—This noble North American tree seldom 
fails to‘develop into a stately specimen in any good, 
deep, well-drained soil. In America the tree is said 
to form specimens from 100 feet to 150 feet in height, 
but in this country it. rarely exceeds 7l) feet or 
80 feet. All through the Rummer the foliage is of a 
fresh pale-green: and, in the autumn, it dies otr a 
brilliant golden-yellow. Striking cfleets might, there¬ 
fore, he obtained by grouping it with Quercus coc- 
cinea or the purple-leaved Beech. In addition to its 
ornamental properties, it is valuable as a timber-tree, 
the wood being firm in texture and capable of tak¬ 
ing a line polish. It. is, however, most valuable in 
this country as an ornamental tree. and. for that 
purpose, its distinct and noble port commends it at 
once to the notice of intending planters. In 
London gardens, where the tree flowers very well 
aud grows fairly, the foliage dying off in autumn 
affords very, striking effects. Its value is more ap¬ 
parent where stately specimens are found. 

Cutting down hedge of Lawson's Cypress 
(.1. B.). - The name or the shrub of which your hedge 
is composed is Cuprossus Lnwsoniana (Lawson's 
Cypress). It is a good hedge plant, hut being, in a 
state of nature, a lofty tree, it has always a 
tendency to mount, upwards quickly, and unless this 
is checked it is apt to go hare at the base. Un¬ 
fortunately. when this happens, the Cuprossus has 
not the recuperative power of the Yew, so that gaps 
are far more difficult to hide. The best time to trim 
a hedge of this kind is in late, spring or early sum¬ 
mer; but if yours lias not been trimmed this season 
von had better do so with as little delay as possible. 
As the leading shoots grow quickly, they may be cut 
down even a foot lower than the height to which 
your hedge is limited, as, directly new shoots are 
pushed out from the upper part of the plant., they 
take an upward tendency. The hedge may be 
readily trimmed with a pair of sharp shears. In 
doing this. the. hedge should be cut with a sloping 
top, as this admits of more light than if it is trim¬ 
med square at that part. Plenty of light prevents 
the small sprays at the base from dying off to the 
extent they otherwise would. 

FRUIT. 

Grapes mildewed {Maud II. Lees). We have 
never seen Grapes in such a had condition, plainly 
showing that there has been gross neglect in attend¬ 
ing to the Vines. You ought to dust flowers of sul¬ 
phur all over the Vines, washing this off after a few 
davs with Hear rain water. In the winter you ought 
to paint all the inside woodwork, clean the glass, and 
limewash the walls. Then dissolve \ oz. of sulphide 
of potassium in a quart of water, mix it with clay 
and sulphur to a thin paste, and brush this into the 
hark and everv crevice about the spurs on the Vine 
rods, applying'this dressing immediately you see any 
further symptoms of mildew. We should advise you 
to cut oil all the hunches and at once burn them. 

VEGETABLES. 

Good King Henry 1C. S.l This being peren¬ 
nial and very hardy will grow and yield abundantly 
for several years, it is easily raised from seed, which 
is best sown in the spring, either where the plants 
arc to stand or, preferably, in a sccd-bed, pricking 
out tlie seedlings once before they are permanently 
planted out in rows 18 inches apart, the plants 1 foot 
apart in the row. To have this good, you cannot 
have the ground too deeply dug nor too rich. It is 
extensively grown in Lincolnshire. 

Nitrate of soda as manure (Reader).—Nitrate 
of soda is rather a stimulant to certain plants. Cab¬ 
bages especially, because it is a nitrogenous manure 
of verv tfinick action, and, being immediately dis¬ 
solved,* should always be applied to crops in a fair 
state of growth, to be at once utilised. But, for the 
same reason, it leaves behind no manurial properties. 
It obtains its reputation for beggaring the ground 
because, in its operation, it assists other manure con¬ 
stituents to he quickly utilised. Where reliance is 
placed on chemical manures, bone-meal, or super¬ 
phosphate. and kainit or muriate of potash should 
also be included, and worked into the soil to dis¬ 
solve several weeks prior to cropping. If animal 
manures arc dug into the ground, a light dressing or 
two of nitrate of soda, especially in dry weather, 
hoed in after growth has begun, does great good, 
and especially so to all the Cabbage tribe. Weak 
liquid-manure* is always good for crops. 


SHORT REPLIES. 


M. L. E. Tyrwhitt. —Thanks for particulars. The 
leaves of the Vines have, we fear, been scorched by 
the sun. while, no doubt, the fumigating also helped 
in the discoloration of tlie leaves. It would be well 
to ask some practical man in your district to examine 
the leaves as growing on the Vines. ——Mm. Patrick. 
—Kindly send us some further particulars as to the 
age of the plants. They are evidently exhausted, a* 
also the soil they are growing in. The best thing 
would be to dig them up and make a fresh planta¬ 
tion, getting the runners from a distance.- Wal¬ 

sall.—Prune your Gooseberries as soon as t lie leaves 
fall. Kindly read our rules as to sending name and 
address.— Scotia.— On both the Sweet Peas and the 
Asters we found aphides, which are the cause of the 
failure. Syringe both well with Quassia extract and 
soft soap, and you will find that they will then go 

away freely.- M. L. P. You ought to get a copy 

of “ Alpine Flowers for Gardens,” in which the whole 
subject is fully dealt, illustrations of how to form 
a rock garden and ulso of the plants suitable being 

given. This book can be had from this office.- 

tt\ S. Riding.- For the Muscat of Alexandria Grape 
Arc-heat should never be discontinued from the time 
of starting. No Grape better rewards special culture 
than this, and it seldom succeeds well in a mixed 
collection. To ripen the fruit thoroughly a higher 
temperature than is necessary for most Grapes is 

requisite.- A. E. Shcnton.—'Tho dull, cold season is 

the cause of the failure. It is only in warm yearn 

that outdoor Grapes arc a success.- Montana. — It 

seems to us that the failure is entirely due to want 
of manure in the soil. Have it thoroughly trenched 
and manured, and then wc think you will have little 
cause for complaint. Wc think you should ask a 
practical gardener in your district to look at your 
garden aud crops, and advise you what you had best 

do.- Rose — Yes; judging by the sample you send, 

we should sav that it would do well to lighten your 
hcavv Hav soil. A. Johnstone.— Your Grapes have 
been “ scalded." See reply to “Ethel W. Graham,' 
in our issue of June 20th, p. 282 .--dmalrur.- 8 ee 
the article on “ Strawberries during the Winter 
Months,” in our issue of June 2nd, 1900. p. 181, a 
copy or which can he had from the publisher, post 
free for lid. We do not wish to discourage you. but 
a dozen plants are of no use: and unless you possess 
a practical knowledge of Strawberry forcing, we 
would advise you to give up all ideas of growing 
them c ertainly during the month you mention. Holi¬ 
day's " Villa Gardening,” from this office, should 
answer your purpose. See article in reply to 
“ Orchid lover,” on Indian Crocus (I’leioiie). in our 
issue of December. 1st. 1900. p. 550.- - Hihhnm- 
Your Grapes are what is known as ” shanked, sn: 
“Garden Work.” under the heading “Diseas'd 
Grapes," in our issue of August 3rd, p. 300, and also 
article in present- issue, p. 303. Inquirer, {a) No; 
let the plants flower in the usual way. You must 
allow them to remain in the ground for two seasons 
before you attempt forcing them, lb) No; you must- 
have a cold chamber, (c) Lift and repot them any 
time in the autumn, introducing the plants to the 
forcing-house as you want them.- - Mrs. Jas. m'sf. 
The reason of the failure is. no doubt, owing to the 
plants being too shaded. Pelargoniums want all the 
light and air you can give them. -- J. K and Is. A 
Your Lilies have been unfortunately attacked by the 
disease which has been so destructive to these or 
recent wars. See reply to “ Sidmoiith,” in our issue 

of July 27th. p. 280.- M. L. IK- We have always 

been most successful with the Salmglossis by sowing 
thinly in the open air in April, requires a light 
rich sandy loam. 


NAMES Or PLANTS AND FRUITS. 

Names of plants.-G. T. H.-t. Lavender Cotton 
(Snntolinn CluiniKcypnrissus): !!. The Artillery-plant 

(Pilen immense); 3, Linnria purpurea.- Bretiot- 

Your Rose-blooms tind nil fallen to picccs.-Copleilcit. 

-Ahelia t-riflorn.-.U. P. S. See.-Eqmsrtwn 

arvense.- F.. S.-Tlie Coral-tree (Brythrma crista- 

g a Hi)_ Robert Greening .—Statice Bonduelli: a 

biennial if protected during the winter.--Mn. 
Patrick.— I. Spiraea flascllata; 2, Hie French 
Honeysuckle (llrilysarmn ninUi)ugiim).--/,Jfcererr.- 

Rosc Felieite-I’crnctllit.-.Vary h. Miurns. —I.'lium 

exeelsuin.- A. P. «■ ""d II. B. M.-Mie c:innm 

undertake to name Roses. The varieties are «o 
numerous ttiat, unless able to compare them it is 
impossible to name with any certainty.- -J. 

Please send the Thorn when in bloom.-.lnntiai. 

Phacclia campanularia. 

Names of fruit.-IF. J. Goad. -Impossible to 
name from specimens sent. They were very much dt 
cnyed, and covered with cotton wool. 


Catalogues received.—W. B. Ilartland and Sonr-, 
Ard Cairn? Cork.-List of Daffodils and Rare Tubpt. 

_W. Bull and Sons, Chelsea, London, 8 .W.— 

Catalogue of Bulbs. „ 

Book received.—” Bees for Pleasure and Profit. 
By G. Gordon Samson. Crosby Lockwood and bon. 

Gyntira cycooerinifolia—I shall be ohliged if 
some reader could tell me the nature of the above 
plant and the kind of treatment it requires/ I be¬ 
lieve it came from Ceylon.- 


-H. Page. 


Readers on holiday.-During the holiday season 
readers who find any difficulty in obtaining Gardkmno 
IbM’BTRATED from the local newsagent or bookstall, nny 
have a copy posted regularly for a few weeks or longer oy 
sending a remittance at the rate of Ud ft copy *o the 
Publisher, Gardknixo Illustratkd, 17, Furnival-street, 
Holboro, London, E.C*. , _ 

JlVERSTTiDT ILLINOIS AT 


:ha 


N 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


No. 1,484— Vol. XXIX. 


Founded by IT. Siobimon, Author of "The English Flower Garden." 


AUG IT.ST 17, 1907. 


Beans, Runner .. 317 

Berberia fascicularis .. 323 
Black Currara-bushffi, 
overgrown .. 330 

Black Currant*, big bud 

in.328 

Bonier, herbaceous, 
preparing it .. 320 

Krooni, the Spanish .. 321 
Carnation diseased .. 330 
Carnations and Picotces 319 
Carnations failing .. 330 
Pamalious, wire worm 

ui.330 

('hestnut-tree, 8 weet .. 323 
Chrysanthemum, early- 
flowering, Piurcy'a 

HredHng.322 

Chrysanthemums ., 321 
Chrysanthemums, early- 
flowering, in new 
ground.321 


Chrysanthemums, deco¬ 
rative, work among .. 321 
Chrysanthemums, out¬ 
door, t wo-year-old .. 322 
Clerodendron fallax .. 326 
Clerodendron, treat¬ 
ment of.330 

Conservatory .. .. 328 

Creeping Jenny .. .. 321 

Crops, the season's .. 317 

DeUt/.ios.324 

District council and 

pond .330 

Enterprise, a gardening 330 
Fern, hardy, notes .. 322 

Kerns .322 

Ferns under glass ,. 328 
Fruit .. .. .327 

Fruit garden .. ,. 329 

Fuchsia, garden va¬ 
rieties of.325 

Fuchsias.330 


INDEX. 


Garden diary, extracts 
from a ' .. .. 329 

Garden pests and 
friends .. .. .. 318 

Carden work .. .. 328 

Gloire de Dijon, red, 
failing to bloom .. 330 I 
Gypsophila paniciilata 330 
Habernaria Nusannse .. 322 
Insects, orchard, some 
injurious .. .. 318 j 

Ixoras in flower .. .. 320 

Larch-trees .. .. 330 

I,ilium caudidum failing 321 
I .ilium 8|iceiosum in tliu 
greenhouse .. .. 321 

Lythrum roseum .. 320 
Melons, canker in .. 328 

Narcissus.321 

Nicrembcrgia gracilis ., 321 
Odontoglossmu citrus- 
mum .322 


. < )nion-lly, the .. .. 317 

Orchids.322 

Outdoor garden .. .. 329 

Outdoor plants .. .. 319 

Fieony Holfaterre ... 319 
Pansies, Tufted, in¬ 
creasing.320 

Pansies, Tufted, minia¬ 
ture-flowered .. .. 320 

Pansy. Tufted, Miss 13. 

M Cairn.321 

lVa t^nito Content .. 317 
Peach-houses, work in.. 327 
Peaches, watering ripen¬ 
ing .328 

Pelargonium, Zonal, Re- 
formutor .. 325 

Pelargoniums, Zonal, 
failure of .. .. 324 

Plants, border .. .. 330 

Plantain the house 329 

Potato tuhers, unripe.. 317 


Rape-dust aa a ferti¬ 
liser .330 

Raspberry-caiicH, pru¬ 
ning .. .. 330 

Room and window .. 322 
Rose blooms rotting 
upon the trees .. 331 
Rose Edmond Proust . 327 
Robb LadyMoyra Beau- 

clef .327 

Rose Mine. Jenny Gillc- 

niot.327 

Rose of .Sharon, the .. 321 

Roses .320 

Ruses, Hybrid Petpe- 
tual, scarlet, red, and 
•lark-coloured .. .. 32*1 

Roses, mildew on .. ii30 
Royal Horticultural 
Soeiel y.329 

Haltuify, diseased .. :!30 

.Shrubs, pruning.. .. 321 


Silver-tree, the Capo .. 321 
Spirwa japonicn.. .. 324 

Starve .. .. 328 

Strawberry season, the 

past .328 

Table decorations at 
the National Sweet 
Pea Society's Show .. 322 

Taesonia failing.. .. 3*50 

Trees and shrubs 323 

Trees,bare places, cloth¬ 
ing, under .. .. 3*23 

Trees, insect at lacking 330 
Vegetable garden .. 329 
Vegetable garden, judg- 

*117 


Vegetables .. .. 317 

Vinery,late .. .. 329 

Weeks work, the 

coming.329 

Wistaria-covered walk, 
a.323 


VEGETABLES. 

THE SEASON’S CROPS. 

It has been peculiarly interesting to note 
that while complaints have been frequent 
and loud, especially on the part of profes¬ 
sional gardeners, with regard to the weather 
and its influence on garden crops in every 
direction, in cottage gardens and oil allot¬ 
ments and at small shows, produce of a gene¬ 
ral kind has been particularly good. 1 have 
seen Potatoes, Pea*, Long Poo Leans, Car¬ 
rot* Cabbage*, Onions, Turnips, Beets, and 
other vegetables very fine and plentiful, the’ 
chief late one*, because the more ten¬ 
der, being Marrows, Summer and Dwarf 
Beans, and Tomatoe*. But, if Marrows are 
late, they look well, and*o<io Runner Beans, 
these latter promising a heavy crop from 
henceforth. Then fruit*, such a* Goosc- 
torriflfl. Currants, and Raspberries, have been 
most abundant ami fine, and in many small 
gardens Plums promise to be a great crop. 
Apples and Pears being h\s* so, but fairly 
good. The country looks wonderfully green 
and fresh. » Wo only need a dry, warm 
autumn to find, after till, that we have had a 
great and abundant season. i). 


THE ONION FLY. 

MY whole crop of Onions lias been ruined this year 
by what, I am informed, is the Onion fly. Soot has 
been mixed with the soil, but to no purpose. What 
is the remedy? I have bad the Onions burnt, but I 
conclude the fly is in the soil.—C lemens. 


[You will do well, if you have not already 
put some other crop on to the ground from 
which you have removed vour spring Onions, 
to put oil to it a dressing of gas lime at the 
rate of three-fourths of a bushel per rod. and 
to well break and spread it evenly. Let it lie 
exposed to the weather for a month, then run 
u coarse rake over it, to still farther break it, 
and at once fork it in, well mixing it with the 
soil. A heavy coat of soot may be added, if 
obtainable. Such dressing should kill any 
grubs or larvie remaining in the soil, for the 
grubs hibernate in the ground through the 
winter. In the early spring the chrysalides 
change to flies, and these deposit their eggs in 
the sheaths, or close to the stems of the 
young Onion plants. Those being very ten 
tier can be pierced by the maggot so soon as 
hatched, and. eating into the Onion stems, 
soon kill the plants. If the grubs be destroyed 
in the winter, then no flies result. If. on the 
other hand, flies are plentiful, practically the 
only way to keep them from alighting oil the 
Onion plants is to strew amongst the latter, 
between the rows, sawdust with which paraf¬ 
fin has been mixed, as that emits a smell 
obnoxious to the flies. Soot, too, is strongly 
recommended as obnoxious; so also is tv 
gentle spraying with a solution of Quassia 
chips and soft soap, as that is also nauseous. 
But if the flics have already deposited their 
eggs, then remedies of that kind come too 
late, as a rule. One me aps^ of escaping Jiarpi 


Digit iz 


L,oogie 


to Onion plants by tlie maggots is to sow seed 
of Ailsa Craig, Main Crop, or other blown 
skinned Onion of the White Spanish or Globe 
type about the end of August. These sow¬ 
ings escape harm, and if some plants front the 
sowing be dibbled out in March oil to fresh 
soil in rows 12 inches apart, a fine lot of hard, 
good keeping bulbs results. Also if seed In* 
sown in shallow boxes under glass in Janu¬ 
ary. the plants grown on strong in ample 
light and air. then dibbled out into the 4 )pen 
ground in April, they escape the maggot 
also.] 

SOTES ASJ) IMPLIES. 

Judging: a vegetable garden (llohn't Kit 

11/11 n). We presume, in a*king for the point* 
on which a vegetable garden is judged, you 
refer to a cottage garden, as large gardens, 
such as gentlemen’s or amateurs’, are sel¬ 
dom pointed. Having had long experience 
of the working cottage garden and allotment | 
judging in a southern county, we can toll you 
how pointing is done in such case. It is a 
system that ha* been in operation for the 
past sixteen years, and is applied to many 
hundreds of such gardens or plots each year. 
The primary conditions are neatne**. order 
or arrangement in cropping, Potatoes, Peas, 
winter greens, winter and spring Onion*, 
hardy fruit* ami flowers. To each of these is 
allotted a maximum of ten points. Then 
come Broad, Runner, and Dwarf Beane, Car¬ 
rots, Beets. Parsnips. Turnip*, white Cab¬ 
bage*. Tomatoes. Vegetable Marrows, and 
Cauliflowers, eight point* maximum each. 
Celery, Asparagus, Seakale. Cucumbers, 
Leeks, Lettuce, and Rhubarb, six point* 
maximum; and such things as Red Cabbage, 
Artichokes, Herbs, Spinach, and Shallots, or 
similar things, have maximum* of four points 
each. Thus, did everything secure a maxi 
mum of points, a garden might obtain a total 
of 23G points. But no garden, let it lie ever 
so good, does that. Wo find a very fair 
garden or allotment to obtain 150 points, an 
excellent one 175 points, and one of excep¬ 
tional excellence 200 points. The highest we 
have ever pointed was this year. A 40-rod 
cottage garden obtained 205 points—really a 
splendid garden in every part—and we doubt 
if a l»etfccr for a real cottage garden in a re¬ 
mote countrv district, worked bv an ex-farm 
carter, could be round in the whole kingdom. 
All these crops and requirements, beginning 
just a* we have arranged them, are printed 
on the margins of judging sheets, and figures 
alone represent, on these sheets the judged 
value of each requirement or crop. We in¬ 
clude many crops, because it is held that-, to 
have vegetables all the year round, practi¬ 
cally all kinds must be grown. 

Unripe Potato-tubers. I would like to re¬ 
mind readers who may wish to test next year 
the productive merits of immature or unripe 
Potato-tubers as seed, and of really mature 
tubers of the same stock, and off the same 
soil, to lift just half a dozen roots of anv one 


or more varieties that are yet in vigorous, 
green growth, doing so at once, selecting 
from the roots about eighteen to twenty 
proper seed tubers, and putting them aside in 
a very cool place to be stored for the winter. 
Some persons advise to secure immature seed- 
tubers, that ordinary saved tubers be planted 
in June, to have the plants vigorous in Octo¬ 
ber or November, and, perhaps, be cut down 
by frost. To that method there is the ob¬ 
jection that if the summer be hot and dry. 
there is little chance of getting growth at all. 
If, on the other hand, the season be wet, 
then the leaves anil stems may be destroyed 
by disease ere tubers are formed. Of course, 
the tubers now lifted must be kept quite cool. 
It is imperative to linve a proper trial, that, 
the unripe and the ripe set* be from tin* sane* 
variety and the same soil, but be lifted at 
diverso times only. A. I>. 

Runner Beans. A common circumstance 
this year is the lateness of Runner Beans. 
Whilst. I have seen scores of good, tall rows, 
and plenty of bloom, pods have been excep¬ 
tionally scarce. It is a 11 due to the lateness 
of the season and the long, cold, dull spring. 
At July shows nothing has been so rare as a 
dish of Runners, and even raising plants 
under glass and growing them mi early seem 
not to have led to better results than has 
sowing in the open ground. Somehow prob¬ 
ably because really tender plants Kunn r 
Heaps refuse to be pushed on outdoors faster, 
than the temperature of the atmosphere ad 
mits of. The earliest plants for pod produc¬ 
tion 1 have seen were growing against a warm 
wall, but even on those pods were small. 
Even on Dwarf Kidney Beans puds, so Far, 
have been scarce or very small. No doubt 
there will Is* plenty during August. There 
has been a great abundance of Peas, so far, 
and Beans have been less needed. In that 
respect tin* season has brought some com¬ 
pensations. A. D. 


Quite Content Pea. With a view to in¬ 
ducing me to test the cooked merits of this 
new large-podded Pea, a friend sent me some 
pods recently, and I can but admit that, when 
cooked, the Peas were soft, succulent, sweet, 
and very delicious eating. It is but right in 
criticising Peas, and especially very tall ones, 
such as Quite Content is, that their cooking 
value should be done full justice to. Most 
crrtiiinJv in Alderman, one of the parents of 
Quilt? Content, and hitherto the largest 
podded of tall Peas, we have capital cooking 
quality, whilst of older tall Peas those who 
remember British Queen, Champion of Eng¬ 
land. and No Plus Ultra, admit that for table 
quality those old varieties never have been 
excelled. My objection to very tall Peas is 
that they do not suit persons with small gar¬ 
dens, or cottagers. I have seen numerous 
row* of Quite Content in cottage gardens this 
season, but not doing well, simply because 
wanting deep, rich culture, more room, and 
taller stakes. For such persons Peas ranging 
from 3 feet to 4 Tqtff in hf‘igfit are much the 
best —A. D. 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 












GARDJijYIJS G ILLUSTRATED . 


AuiiL’rST 17 , 1907 


31:3 


QARDEN PESTS AND FRIENDS. 

SOME INJURIOUS ORCHARD INSECTS. 
Fruit-trees and bushes attract many dif¬ 
ferent kinds of insects, and in order to deal 
effectually with these pests the cultivator 
needs to know—(1) How tho insects feed, 
whether by biting or by sucking ; (2) in what 
stage of their life-history, and at what time 
of the year, the damage is done; (3) at what 
*tage of its life-history each insect is most 
easy to entrap or to kill ; (4) what measures 
to take against each pest. 

Biting Insects. 

Caterpillars.— Taking first those insects 
that bite leaves, or other parts of plan Us, 
and devour solid food, we find that fruit trees 
are specially liable to the attacks of various 
caterpillars; these arc the young of moths 
and sawflies, which lay their eggs on the 
plants. Most of the caterpillars destructive 
to fruit-trees are the offspring of moths. The 
damage is done entirely by the caterpillars, 
which possess strong biting-jaws (mandibles); 
the moths, if they feed at all, euck only nectar 
or other liquids. Between the state of the 
crawling caterpillar and that of the flying 
moth, the insect spends some time as a pupa, 
remaining motionless and taking no food. 

When caterpillars are devouring foliage, 
the most effectual application is an arsenical 
spray. The two sprays in general use arc 
“Paris green" (aeeto arsenite of copj>er) and 
“ Disparene " (arsenate of lead). Paris green 
should be obtained in the form of paste, and 
used at the rate of 1 U>. to about 200 gallons 
of soft water. The poison is not dissolved, 
hut merely suspended in the water; the mix¬ 
ture must be, therefore, frequently stirred to 
keep the strength uniform, and swilling must 
l»o avoided. About 10 lb. of lime or flour is 
often added for every pound of the “green." 
Lead arsenate is now generally considered 
more efficient than Paris green. It may be 
used at the rate of 1 ll». to 50 gallons of 
water. It is inadvisable for growers to make 
the arsenate for themselves, on account of 
the variable strength of the commercial lead 
acetate and soda arsenate used in its pre¬ 
paration. The object of all arsenical spray¬ 
ing is to cover the leaves with a thin layer of 
poison. A fine, even spray is therefore 
essential. 

The winter moth. The caterpillar of the 
winter moth is the most destructive of all 
biting insects in orchards. It attacks Apple, 
Pear, Plum, Cherry, and many other trees. 
The caterpillar is hatched in March or April 
from eggs that have been laid in autumn or 
winter. At first of a greyish colour, the 
caterpillars, when older, are yellowish-green, 
with a white line along each wide. They eat 
very greedily, and, when numerous, almost 
strip the branches of leaves. Arsenical 
spraying (as above) should be carried out on 
the first appearance of mischief. When fully 
fed (al)out June) the caterpillar buries itself 
a few inches in the soil, and there turns into 
a brown pupa. The moth comes out from 
the pupa case in October, or later. The male 
moth has brownish-grey wings, which 
measure about an inch across when out¬ 
spread. The female moth is wingless, and 
has to climb up the tree-trunks to lay her 
eggs in groups at the bases of the buds, or 
in cracks of the bark. Hence the well-known 
practice of placing around the trunk, about 
four feet from the ground, a grease-band—a 
band of thick paper, about six inches wide, 
tied carefully and tightly at top and bottom, 
and covered with cart-grease (not mixed with 
tar). Such a band will catch large numbers 
of the ascending females if kept in order 
through the autumn and winter. Supporting 
stakes should be banded a6 well as the 
trimks. 

The lackey-moth. — The lackey-moth, 
which flics in July or August, is a small 
brown or yellowish moth, with feathery 
feelers. The female lays her eggs in a 
curious ring-shaped mass, surrounding a 
twig of the Apple or other tree, on which the 
caterpillars feed, when, in the succeeding 
spring, they havo been batched from these 
eggs. The caterpillars are hairy and very 
conspicuous, being of a blue colour, with 
black and scarlet stripes running lengthwise 

Digitized by QO' glC 


along the body. They have the habit of 
spinning a mass of web which serves as a 
shelter. The pupal stage, which lasts hut a 
short time, is passed in a cocoon on the tree, 
or on some neighbouring hedge or building. 
Besides spraying, the practice of cutting off 
with shears the shoots, over which the web 
has been spun, is often effectual ; the web 
(with the contained caterpillars) should be 
caught in a pail of paraffin and water. 

The small ermine moths. The small 
ermine moths have caterpillars which follow 
very similar habits, spinning masses of web 
over Apple, Plum, Hawthorn, Spindle, and 
other trees. The moths are small less than 
an inch across the outspread wings, the front 
pair of which are white or grey with black 
spots. The eggs, laid in July or August, 
are protected by a gummy secretion, and the 
caterpillars begin to feed on the leaves in 
the succeeding spring or summer. They are 
grey, dark grey, or yellowish in colour, with 
numerous black spots, and they spin whitish 
cocoons on their mass of web, within which 
they pupate about midsummer. 

The OODLIN moth. With the’ caterpillar 
of the codlin-moth we pass to a new mode of 
feeding, for its well known habit is to burrow 
into the fruit, which becomes, in conse¬ 
quence, “wormy," and more or less worth¬ 
less. The moths, which arc beautiful little 
insects, about jj inch across the out spread 
wings, which are dark mottled grey, with 
bright metallic, coppery markings fly in late 
spring, laying their eggs on the forming fruit 
when about \ inch in diameter, or on twigs 
and leaves. The email caterpillars hatched 
from these eggs burrow into the young Apple ; 
at the “eye, or blossom end, and eat their 
way down to the seeds. When the cater¬ 
pillar lias become fully grown it tunnels to 
♦ lie side of the fruit and conics out, seeking 
then a suitable place for winter quarters. If 
the Apple is still on the tree the caterpillar 
often crawls down the trunk and shelters be¬ 
neath loose bark. If the fruit has fallen to 
the ground the insect hides under rubbish or 
climbs partly up a tree-trunk and shelters 
there. It remains unchanged through the 
winter, becoming in the succeeding spring a 
pupa, whence the moth in due time emerges. 

The sheltering habits of the caterpillars 
suggest the removal of loose bark, etc., from 
the tree trunks by scraping, or bv caustic 
alkali spray in winter, and the provision of 
rope or sacking bands tied lightly round the 
stems, low down, in summer. Under such 
bauds the caterpillars gather in large num¬ 
bers, so that they can be collected and killed. 
To make this preventive plan successful, the 
trees must be well cleaned, and the bands 
examined frequently during summer and 
autumn. “Windfalls" should he cleared 
away, and houses where Apples are stored 
should have clean, whitewashed walls and 
wire-gauzed windows, so that the moths 
emerging from 6torcd Apples cannot escape 
to the trees. Arsenical spraying should he 
done early—certainly not more than a week 
after the blossom has fallen ; for the young 
fruit is then upright, and the poison, lodging 
m the “eye," will remain there, so that the 
caterpillar cannot fail to eat it and die. 

The magpie moth.— The caterpillar of the 
magpie-motli is a well-known enemy of Cur¬ 
rant. and Gooseberry-bushes, and feeds 
greedily cn the leaves. The conspicuous 
moth, with whitish, yellow and black-spotted 
wings, flies in July and August, and lays her 
eggs on the leaves. The caterpillars feed 
but little in the autumn, spinning shelters for 
themselves out of dried leaves, or seeking 
crannies in walls, or cracks in the ground, 
where they shelter for the winter. In spring 
they begin to feed on the young leaves, and 
are soon conspicuous with their black and 
yellow bodies “looping" over the bushes. 
The pupal stage is passed in a loose cocoon 
on the plant. When the caterpillars ore 
feeding in spring they may be hand-picked, 
or the bushes may receive an arsenical spray¬ 
ing, but such spraying is considered 
dangerous within a month of the fruit-pick¬ 
ing season. The winter shelters can be 
cleared, and the young caterpillars killed by 
an application of caustic alkali. 

The Currant saw-fly. More destructive 
to Currant and Gooseberry foliage than tjie 


“magpie" is the smaller caterpillar of the 
saw-fly —a pretty yellowish fly, allied to bees 
and wasps, and with four transparent wings. 
These flies lay their eggs beneath the leaves 
in May, and the presence of the young cater 
pillars may ho known by a multitude of small 
“pin-holes" piercing the leaf; the grubs may 
be picked off and burnt at this stage with 
great advantage to the cultivator. Later, the 
caterpillars leave their “nursery" leaf and 
6 pread over the bush, eating the foliage com¬ 
pletely when very numerous. They are 
greenish, with black spots, which disappear 
when the full size (1 inch long) has been 
attained. The caterpillars then bury them¬ 
selves a few' inches in the soil, they spin 
cocoons and pupate, a second brood of flies 
appearing in the summer. The caterpillars, 
which are their offspring, behave as these of 
the previous brood, hut they remain for 
months unchanged in their buried cocoons, 
and do not complete their transformations 
till the succeeding spring. Arsenical sprays 
may be used, if necessary, with caution in 
spring ; lead arsenate is the best in this case. 
Hellebore, at the rate of 1 oz. with 2 oz. of 
flour and 3 gallons of water, also makes an 
efficient spray. These poisons pjiouhl not l> 
used within a month or six weeks of the fruit 
harvest. 

Reference has been made to the advantages 
of destroying the winter shelters of various 
insects with caustic alkali wash. This com¬ 
pound is made by dissolving 1 lb. caustic soda 
in water and 1 lb. of crude potash or pearlosh 
in water. When dissolved, mix the two 
solutions well together, add .J lb. soft soap, 
stir well, and add enough water to make up 
10 gallons. This wash has a burning effect- 
on the hands, and must he used with care. 
Rubber gloves arc often worn, and a rubber 
flango about 2 inches wide should bo fitted 
around the tube of the sprayer, as a guard 
for the bauds of the worker. Caustic alkali 
is a very valuable winter wash, not only 
against several of the biting insects that have 
already been described, but also against some 
of the sucking insects. It- h;ts lately been 
shown that the addition of paraffin to the 
caustic wash is often advisable. When thus 
prepared the wash is found very effectual 
against the eggs of scale insects. The follow¬ 
ing is the recipe given in the Woburn report: 
“Dissolve 1 ‘ lb. of soft soap in 1 gallon of 
water by heating it; add to this, gradually, 
2 gallons of paraffin, churning it up with a 
syringe fitted with a rose-jet, till the whole 
becomes a thick, creamy emulsion ; stir this 
emulsion into 27 gallons of water, in which 
6 lb. of caustic soda have previously been dis¬ 
solved. The strong emulsion . . . should not 
be added to the soda till it, is required for 
use; . . . the mixture should be kept 

thoroughly stirred during use, and it is most 
desirable with this, as with nearly all other 
washes, that the spraying machine should bo 
fitted with an automatic stirrer." 

Besides its effect in destroying wintering 
insects and their shelters, the winter alkali 
wash has a beneficial effect on the general 
health of the tree by causing the old bark to 
drop away and fresh, clean bark to appear. 

Sucking Insects. 

Insects such as aphides (“green-fly" or 
“blight"), scales, and “jumpers," feed by 
piercing the plant tissues—leaves, stems, or 
roots—with fine needle-like jaws, and sucking 
sap from the internal part of the plant 
through their channelled beaks. Hence it 
does these insects no harm to scatter 
arsenical poison over the surface of the 
leaves, as they draw their food from a deeper 
source. Against such enemies the cultivator 
must use a “contact poison," such as quassia 
or paraffin, mixed with some sticky com¬ 
pound such as soap, which causes the poison 
to adhere to the body of the insect, and acta 
itself by choking the air holes through 
which the insect breathes. Paraffin emul¬ 
sion is the substance generally used for 
spraying against sucking insects. It is 
prepared by dissolving £ lb. soft soap in 

1 gallon of boiling water, and adding this to 

2 gallons of paraffin ; the mixture must then 
be churned up with a force-pump, so as to 
form a creamy emulsion of even composition. 
Before use the emulsion must be diluted with 
10 gallons of soft water. Quassia wash is 


UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS i 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


Aucust 17, 1907 


, GAUDHJsrl jY(t ILLUSTRATED. 



also an excellent application against these 
msects, and is, perhaps, safer than the paraf- , 
fin emulsion ; 2 lb. or 3 lb. of Quassia chips 
and £ lb. soap are used to 10 gallons of water. 

Aphides, or “orken-fly.” —Pre-eminent 
among sucking insects are the various kinds 
of aphides, or “green-fly,” each cultivated 
plant having one or more species that live on 
it. Thus three or four distinct kinds of aphides i 
may he commonly found on the Apple, two j 
on the Plum, and two on the Gooseberry. | 
Besides the direct harm that they do by suck¬ 
ing sap, worse damage, due to fungi, often ' 
follows their ravages, as the fungus spores j 
find entrance through the holes pierced in the 
plant, by the insects’ jaws. Among aphides 
generally, reproduction is carried on at an 
enormous rate, through the spring and sum¬ 
mer, by successive generations of virgin 
females, whose eggs hatch within their 
bodies, so that the young insect is born in an 
active state. These virgin females may be i 
winged or wingless; often the winged forms 


blight.” The white, woolly appearance is 
due to a waxy secretion from the bodies of the 
insects. Besides the winter eggs, females 
sheltering in cracks of the bark, and remain¬ 
ing alive through severe frosts, serve to per¬ 
petuate this species. Moreover, the insects 
often migrate from the trunk to the roots, 
which they also damage. The presence of 
these aphides causes characteristic deforma- j 
tion of the bark, and canker-like swellings of 
the shoots. Into the cracks the spores of the 
fungus Neetria make their way, and the true 
“Apple canker ” results. The "blight” is 
hard to eradicate, as the woolly secretion 
serves to protect, the insects. The post is 
often spread by imported nursery stock, and 
rigorous selection should always Ik? exercised 
in planting. Winter spraying with caustic 
alkali wash to clear away sheltering-places, 
and white washing the cleaned trunks, are 
advisable. Paraffin emulsion may be applied 
to the colonic8 of insects by spraying, or with 
a hard brush. 


young insects appearing in the spring when 
they suck sap from leaf-buds, leaves, and 
especially from flower buds, whose growth is 
so far stopped by their presence that fruit 
cannot form. About midsummer the insects 
become fully grown and provided with wings, 
after which they do but little damage. The 
most vulnerable point in the life-cycle is, 
however, the autumn before the eggs are laid, 
and the winged adults should then be 
attacked with the paraffin emulsion spray, as 
recommended above against, aphides.— Lea fit t 
X o. S', of the Df fnirtm*nt of Agriculture and 
Terhniral Instruction for Inland. 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 

PA20NY SOLFATERRE. 

This is a good representative of those 
Pieonies with the Anemone-formed centre, 
and, generally speaking, the flowers are most 
picturesque and elegant-looking, 
nnd, while attractive enough in 
the border and in almost any 
position in which they may be 
placed, they are singularly 
beautiful. This type of flower 
is composed of an outer ring of 
large, shapely petals, known as 
guard petals, and a central tuft 
of smaller or modified petals — 
in reality, we suppose, petaloid 
stamens. These central petals 
arc sometimes erect, narrow, 
and tufted ; nt other times, in 
part distinctly forked, as in the 
accompanying illustration, while 
the uppermost petals are almost 
normal. Some of these Anem¬ 
one-formed flowers arc exceed¬ 
ingly beautiful, as well as in¬ 
teresting, and for cutting, for 
which they are admirably 
adapted, they invariably give 
satisfaction. The variety illus¬ 
trated has pure white guard 
petals, w ith lemon - coloured 
centre. Mme. Furtado, guard 
petals rose, centre pink ; candi- 
dissima, creamy centre and pure 
white guard petals ; and Geral¬ 
dine, in which the central tuft 
of petals is of a yellow colour, 
are also good kinds, while there 
are many more of varying 
shades of colour. 


CARNATIONS AND 
PICOTEES. 


Anemone-flowered Pnony Solfaterre. 


migrate to other plants, in some cases to ; 
plants of another kind. In autumn, an egg j 
laying form of female is produced, and also ' 
inales ; the small oval, hard-shelled eggs pro 
(luced by these insects are laid on the shoots j 
and buds, and carry the species over the 
winter. The vulnerable times in the life- 
history of aphides are the early spring, when 
the first lot of virgin females (“stem- 
mothers”) have just hatched out of the 
winter eggs, and the autumn, when the males 
and egg-laying females are pairing. Spray¬ 
ing with paraffin emulsion at these seasons is, 1 
therefore, of special importance. Many of 
the aphides cause the leaves to roll up, or to 
Income blistered, thus affording them shelter, 
and spraying during summer is useless 
against such insects, as the poison never 
reaches them on account of their sheltered | 
position. , 

American blight. An aphid specially 
well know'll is the “ wooUfVspecies, wljse 
presence on Apple, and ♦LimdjtniV 
hark, causes what is IVWir “AiuAkimrVr 1 


SCALE INSECTS. —Various scale-insects may 
be found on fruit trees; the best known is, 
perhaps, the “mussel-scale ” of the Apple. 
The young insects nr* active, but they soon 
settle down to a sedentary life under the firm 
scales which are formed of their waxy 
secretion and their cast-off skins. Beneath 
the protective scale the wingless female lays 
her numerous eggs, which then remain thus 
sheltered through the whiter -the active 
young appear next spring. The winter 
caustic alkali wash with paraffin (as advised) 
is effectual against this pest, and paraffin 
emulsion can be advantageously applied in 
summer with a hard brush or ns a spray. 
Rigorous inspection of new stock should he 
practised, as a few neglected scales may begin 
the ruin of a valuable tree. 

Apple suckers. —The insects called Apple- 
suckers are closely’' related to the aphides, and 
feed in a similar way; they have, however, 
firmer skins, and a characteristic flattened 
shape. The eggs are laid in autumn, and re¬ 
main unhatehed through the winter, the 


The exhibition of these lovely 
flowers recently held in London 
did not provide anything great 
in the way of new flowers, nor 
did the enthusiasm among the 
visitors appear striking. In 
fact, one noticed that leading 
exhibitors had fallen out of line, 
and no new ones were forthcom¬ 
ing to take their places. It is 
to the competitors in the smaller 
classes that we must look to ad¬ 
vance and take the places of 
old champions when they give up; but, on 
I this occasion new blood was absent. It 
seems to me that, the introduction and 
I improvement in the el ass of Carnations 
known ns perpetual flowering has provided 
something far more interesting to the public 
I generally than the old-time or florists’s typo 
of this flower. The bizarre and flake Car- 
j nations, also the white-ground Picoteos, were 
noted in small numbers and in poor condi- 
1 tion. Other types—the yellow ground Pioo- 
! tees, the Selfs, and the Fancies—made the 
I exhibition, as far as competition was con¬ 
cerned. Those even, were it not for the 
' “dressing ” they received, would be thrown 
in the shade by the newer w inter blooming 
class. It is all very well to say that the 
uneven edges to the petals is a blemish ; but 
in length and strength of stem, in size of 
(lower, and fragrance, they quite surpass any 
] of the so called border C]ajrnfft-jons from a 
. decorative point of view. 

GniUMlVERSH tin* seasdi) beingi. a 

I late one, 












320 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


August 17, 1907 


sorts wore not on view, because they had 
lint opened. Tor instance, in the Seifs we 
did not sec a flower of Mrs. L. E. Best, prob¬ 
ably the finest scarlet show flower yet ob¬ 
tained, nor one of Mrs. F. W. Flight, a 
charming light pink. The following varieties 
would form a nice collection of self-coloured 
flowers for exhibition: Ann Hathaway, yel¬ 
low ; Ben bow, buff ; Cupid, salmon-pink ; Daf¬ 
fodil, yellow; Ensign, white; John Pope, 
rose; Lady Herinione. light pink; Lady Lin¬ 
lithgow, rose-pink; Miss Wilinot, coral pink, 
lovely; Mrs. I 1 '. W. Flight, light rose; Mrs. 
L. E. Best, scarlet; Mrs. Eric Hambro, 
white; Much the Miller, white; Nubian, 
maroon ; Roi Morris, scarlet; \Y. H. Parker, 
dark maroon, a grand flower. 

In Fancies I would select : Argosy, yellow 
and scarlet; Brodick, yellow and rose, late*; 
Cavalier, yellow and purple; Charles Martel, 
yellow and scarlet; Hidalgo, yellow, with 
maroon markings; Highland Lass, bu(T and 
rose ; King Solomon, buff and crimson; Lead¬ 
ing Lady, yellow, rose, and crimson ; Lord 
Steyne, yellow arid maroon ; Liherte, yellow, 
with maroon markings, very fine; Merlin, 
yellow and red ; Mrs. Francis Wellesley, yel¬ 
low. marked crimson; Pasquin, buff, rose, 
and lavender; Sam Weller, yellow, slight 
marks of crimson ; Ravenswood, buff, crim¬ 
son, and heliotrope. A dozen good yellow- 
ground Pico tees are those that follow ; they 
vary more or less in the depth of the mar¬ 
ginal colour; A?vsop, Bernice, Dora, Spen- 
low. Gertrude, Grunow, Goblin, Irene Lub¬ 
bock, Isolt, Mrs. Walter Heriot, Lady Gas¬ 
coyne, and Verona. 

Border Varieties. —From a large collec¬ 
tion of sorts, I name a few noble-looking 
things for flowering in masses in the open. 
It will he noted that some of them are choice 
kinds for exhibition: Benbow, bufT; H. J. 
Cut hush, scarlet; Trojan, white; Nubian, 
maroon ; Miss Audrey Campbell and Daffodil, 
yellows,; Miss Wilrnot, coral pink; Ivo. Se 
bright, rose, marked lavender; If. Falkland, 
yellow, marked rosy-red; Merlin, yellow and 
crimson; Liherte. yellow and maroon; Lady 
St. (tawaid, yellow, margined r<*<!; Argosy, 
yellow and red stripes; Lara, bufT and rose; 
Professor Cooper, bufT. lavender, and rod; 
Mrs. James Douglas, salmon red. H. S. 


MINIATURE FLOWERED TUFTED 
PANSIES. 

These have done well this year, and, at the 
time of writing (July l!9th), both old and young 
plants are the picture of health. The old 
plants that were put out in their flowering 
quarters in 1906 are covered with blossoms, 
and as the flowers are quite rayless, and re¬ 
presented in a wide range of colours, these 
miniature-flowered Tufted Pansies are 
favoured by those who know their worth. For 
grouping they arc very fine, while as an edg 
ing to beds and hord is the majority of those 
catalogued are specially well adapted. There 
is no belter position for the Violettas, how 
ever, than when carefully disposed in tin* 
rock garden. Here they appear to revel, so 
long as a good depth of rich soil i-* afforded 
them. Massed in groups of three, six, or n 
dozen plants in each group, the effect is 
charming. The colours in which the Vio¬ 
lettas can now be obtained arc blue, from 
deep blue in varying tones passing to china 
blue, blush in pale and deeper hues, prim¬ 
rose, rich orange-yellow’, lavender, lilac, and 
several edged and shaded sorts, and a delight¬ 
ful primrose and orange yellow bicolor. The 
blossoms are sweet scented. There are varie¬ 
ties having flowers of perfect, shape, less than 
an inch in diameter. The Violettas come into 
flower in the early summer months, and con j 
tiimo to blossom in the greatest profusion | 
till October and November. The habit of j 
these miniature-flowered Tufted Pansies 
mostly dwarf and compact, and quite an | 
interesting numlier of them arc spreading 1 
and procumbent. Readers of Gardening i 
Illustrated may be interested to learn the 
names and descriptions of some of the more I 
noteworthy varieties: - 

Violetta.- The original of tin* type, and 
a very dainty, oblong-shaped, ravless flower; | 
white, suffused yellow on the lower petal. I 
Good habit. 

Diana. The |pidfl 1 'oloured I 


QO( IfivS* 


variety, free flowering and fragrant ; splendid 
habit. 

Eileen. A nianvc-blue flower of exquisite 
form, with neat yellow eye. Free flowering 
and robust. 

Miss Gertrude Jekyll.—T his is a charm¬ 
ing bicolor, the upper petals being primrose 
and the lower half of the flower a rich 
orange-yellow. It is a profuse bloomer, 
sweet scented, and of a good habit. 

Olivia.- A lovely flower, and deliciously 
fragrant; colour, blush-white ground, shaded 
lavender blush. Free flowering. 

Blanche.- One of the oldest, and still one 
of the best; a clear silvery white self, with 
neat yellow, rayless eye. 

Robina. In this the rayless flowers are 
white, fr«*ely suffused yellow. On an aver¬ 
age, the flowers are not more than about, 
ij inch in d ameter. 

Lavinia. The colour in this instance is a 
pretty shade of blush lavender, veined a 
deeper shade. 

Winifred Phillips. The flowers of this 
are edged and shaded blue on a creamy-white 
ground, and are borne on long, erect foot¬ 
stalks on plants w ith a dwarf, compact habit. 
Sweet scented. 

Sweetness. A good companion to Ro¬ 
bina, because of the minute character of the 
blossoms. In this instance the blossoms are 
almost pure white, with the faintest suspicion 
of blush under certain conditions. 

Rock Yellow. —Deep rich orange-yellow 
is an apt. description of its colour, and the 
plant has a good habit. 

Thisbe.—A distinct and pleasing blush- 
lilac flower of beautiful form ; free flowering 
nnd robust, with a dense, eonipaet habit of 
growth. 

Hock Blue. In this the flowers are deep 
blue, with a yellow eye. They arc developed 
on stiff, erect foot stalks, and the plant has a 
beautiful habit. 

Grace. This is a snow white flower of 
ideal form and neat yellow eye, free flowering 
and robust. D. B. Crane. 


PREPARING A HERBACEOUS BORDER. 
Wll.l, you kindly till me the first way to prepare tin* 
ground for a new herbaceous border, 70 feet by 
0 feet? The site is at present part of a lawn, soil 
rich loam. Would a dressing of fresh slaked lime he 
good, and, if so, in what proportion? How long 
should elapse before planting? I cannot begin work 
until middle of September. Jed. 

|As in this case the soil is a rich loam, it 
will, probably, bear trenching Li feel or feet 
deep, bringing the bottom spit to the surfac.*. 
Generally where the subsoil is bad and inert, 
the better course is to bastard trench, which 
means breaking up and manuring the bottom 
spit, but leaving it there till it lias under¬ 
gone some improvement. Merely breaking it 
lip with the pick and plneing a layer of manure 
over it will he of great advantage to strong 
rooting plants. Bringing a lot of bad soil to 
the top is not, wise, as the roots will not lake 
kindly to it till it lias been improved, and 
this takes time for the necessary exposure. 
Therefore, unless the subsoil is quite suit 
able, if will bo better to double dig or bastard 
trench, at the same time manuring liberally. 
Ev»pi good loam w ill require* this to-fit iHnr 
herbaceous plants that will occupy the soil for 
several yeais. Get the trenching and manur¬ 
ing done early in aut'imifi, so that at least, a 
month can he allowed for settling before any 
tiling is planted. A dressing of lime is al¬ 
ways benefit ini to newly broken up land 
where the subsoil is not chalk, and a suitable 
dressing will be about half a bushel to the 
square rial. It is b st applied after being 
air-slaked on the land. Lay it in small heaps 
oil the surface after the land has l>een 
trenched, nnd when the air has slaked it 
spread it. evenly on the surface and lightly 
fork it in. 

Riant, when the hord“r is dry. and trend the 
surface to partially firm it before, planting. 
If planting must be done in damp weather, 
use a board, or boards, to Bland upon, to 
avoid standing on or treading the soil when 
wet. as this is calculated to make it unhealthy 
for the roots to work in. It will be a very 
great advantage in planting choice things in 
newly broken tip laud to have a heap of com 
post liandv, and place some round the roots 
of each plant. This compost mav consist |o|fr 
charred garden rubbish mixed with old pot 


ting soil nnd old Mushroom beds broken up 
fine, and the whole well blended together. 
On no account place fresh manure round the 
roots. The roots will find the manure in the 
soil, but placing a little compost round the 
roots as described above is a different matter, 
as the roots take to it readily. Unless the 
planting can be done not later than the first 
week in November, it might be better to wait 
till February, as newly broken up land, after 
the winter’s exposure, will then he in good 
condition for planting. Bulbs, of course, are 
better planted before Christmas, but many 
summer nnd autumn flowering herbaceous 
plants will do quite well planted i u spring, 
and if anv plants have to be purchased, which 
usually come to hand in the shape of very 
small plants in pots, spring planting will lie 
best. 

The arrangement of hardy plants in the 
borders is a matter requiring consideration, 
'l’lie most popular arrangement now is to 
plant in groups either to form harmonics or 
contrasts, and, in many instances, the owner 
of the garden prefers to be guided by his or 
her own taste —and quite right too, I think. 
Where there are several borders, the arrange¬ 
ment may be different for each, and a border 
planted with single specimens in botanical 
arrangement, each being labelled, is not with¬ 
out interest from an educational point of 
view.] 


INCREASING TUFTED PANSIES. 
Having got some good named Tufted Pansies, I want 
to know how I am to propagate them? 1 lay are 
► now in full bloom. Shall I cut them down? If so. 
bow shall I do it? Some of them have got some 
nice young shoots at their base now. - I shall bo 
thankful for any information on the subject. I want 
them to remain outside through winter.—T itted. 

[The In’flt way of securing stock of these 
plants is to plant a few reserve clumps in the 
border somewhere and treat as follow;: 
When the first Hush of bloom is past, or. sav, 
at the end of June, cut the plants closely 
over to within an inch of the soil or there 
abouts. At this time the base of the plant 
is crowded with fresh young shoots that can 
not grow by reason of the crowded tuft 
above, but with light and freedom quickly 
take on a freedi lease. After cutting down, 
lightly fork the surface soil round about the 
tuft, and give a thorough soaking of water. 
Now obtain fine soil, well mixed with sand, 
and surround the plant with this to a dia¬ 
meter. say. of 6 inches beyond the tuft, also 
sprinkle some of the same soil in the centre 
of the plant, and presently wash it down with 
water front a fine rose can. For a time, 
if the weather be dry, continue to sprinkle 
the plants daily each evening with water. 
By following this carefully, the fresh grow ths 
in the centre will root into the new soil, and 
may, a month after the cutting down, be de¬ 
tached and treated as cuttings, though, in 
this instance, these will lie mostly “ready 
rooted ones." These voting unflowered 
pieces you may either insert* in a framers 
cuttings, or, by leaving a fortnight longer, 
make up a border of good soil in a sliadv 
spot, nnd --transplant—them —tin re. This 
method product’s the limMt plants w ith a mini 
in mu of labour, and where large number* are 
required from a plant or two, it is best to 
first pull out the more prominent growths, 
and repeat this operation as the cutting© are 
fit for removal.] 


Lythrum roseum. This, one of the most 
effective and beautiful of herbaceous plants, 
furnished in a good bunch of its spikes of 
bloom the chief feature of a large collection 
or group of hardy cut flowers the other day 
at Cardiff. It is such a striking border plant, 
and does so well if treated as sucli, that it is 
surprising to note how seldom it is 
seen. Clearly there are many things yet in 
commerce that are not widely known. Even 
the common form or the purple Loosestrife 
(Lvthrum Saliearia), is a very beautiful border 
plant. Naturally, these Lvthruins are chief! \ 
found in damp or moist places, but they will 
grow well in good, deeply worked garden soil 
all the same. Were it asked which plants 
give the finest effects in hardy plant borders, 

1 should- certainly /kiss Lytlirum roseum as 
one. and for tv second the beautiful blue 
flow er<*d A ticImga. the Uropnmro variety. 

I snw sonic ehmips-crf this fine Bnragewort 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




August 17, 1907 


GARDENING ILL USTRA TED. 


321 


recently in Surrey 4 feet in height, and ordinary floor, and arranged on boards so 
much through, literally masses of bloom, and that a free passage of air is possible above 
most effective. Krigeron spoeiosus is another and below them, the bulbs dry perfectly, and 
beautiful border plant.—A. D. in a week or two the old coats and roots come 

-- away quite cleanly without trouble or dam- 

NIEREMBERGIA GRACILIS. age. \on have erred by dividing and tearing 

. , . , . ., , f „„„ awav the old basal plate immediately after 

This is an old inhabitant of our gar- liftin „ and bcfor , the bulbs had any ehance 
the “Botanical , M 


dens, and was figured in tne " uotameai of j°; in off al „ n . Giv( , n , mon th |„ the 

Mugazme, ^ LvlII., t. 3,108 in 83 . * state ^ arK | we u aired, the outer skins will 

The *9 Sweets British Flower b0 more fll |j ma t ure and the cleaning and 

Garden ’ Senes II. t. 172, shows its other things can be done at leisure, 

habit belter; hut both are rather paler 6 

in colour than my living plant. It was Creeping Jenny.— Were this plant some 
introduced from Buenos Ayres, hut here on introduction from a remote country, and sold 
a sunny bank of the rock garden it has stood at a high pries, we should hear its praises 
out unprotected all the winter. 1 lliink sounded high and low. It is however, hut a 
young plants withstand the cold better than common hardy British plant, by some 
old. It can be propagated by seeds or cut. esteemed a weed ; yet when well established 


ting?. K. A. Bowles. 

Myddclton House, Waltham Cross. 

NOTES ANI) HEl'LIES. 

Narcissus (Bulb). Where the bulbs arc so 
tightly packed together they should be plan¬ 
ted for another year. If forced asunder the 
basal plate, in all probability, will be greatly 
damaged. Some varieties require several 
years before they are ready for separation, 
and, in a general way, the division is best 


alike in shaded or eool places, or. as it is with 
me, on a narrow, hot border in a town yard, 
it grows luxuriantly, forms a dense carpet of 
close, creeping foliage, and when in flower is 
charming. Beyond being occasionally 
trimmed and kept free from weeds, Creeping 
Jenny just wants to be let alone. I saw it a 
few years back covering a bank in a damp 
piece of woodland at Clandon Park, Surrey, 
quite a large breadth, and it formed a dense 
mass of yellow bloom on a green carpet. 



Nieremberyia gracilis. From a photograph in Mr. Bowles’s garden at Myddelton House, Waltham Cross. 


ft for some time after lifting is completed, i Where it is difficult to induce other plants to 
i the subsequent drying process anv bulbs ' grow, Creeping Jenny, if freely dibbled into 
*■* • * 1 the soil, will take root, spread, and in good 

time cover with a green carpet. Townspeople 


that may be readily separated are seen at a 
glance, and this i* hastened in those instances 
where the bulbs have been for some time ex 
posed to the air, and not a little sunlight. 
The latter, however, and much drying off are 
injurious to all the portions kinds, or, at 
least, these are far more vigorous when per 
manent.lv planted. The “splitting ” to which 
you refer is the outcome of division at too 
early a stage, and offsets may he apparent 
and of good size, and yet so contained within 
the parent bulb as to render division impru 


who too willingly endure bare yards or back 
gardens should grow this plant. U. 

Iiilium candidum falling -I see continually in 
your paper complaints of the dreadful Lily disease, 
\\ hicli has ravaged my garden completely, and should 
like to mention that a lady I know, having forgotten 
to have her white Lilies weeded, they are now the 
.inly ones in full flower. This would seem to point 
to what a correspondent of yours wrote lately—that 
the disease came fiom without. The Lilies here grow 
well, and the foliage is green and healthy till within 
a short time of flowering, when they suddenly turn 


dent. The same >in!b a veai- later might j •>™f" and shrivel up. Perhaps protvHloi.. not n«w- 
throw ono offset, and exhibit another one I «> 

which cannot advantageously be detached. 

It. should be remembered, too, that once a 
bulb has arrived at the “breeder” stage it is, 
practically', always a breeder. The base cap 
coming away in the way it has done is hut 
additional proof that this was too early taken 
in hand, and such work should follow a con¬ 
siderable period of drying off. The best 
general guide for lifting is when the foliage 
is fully matured, and the lifted bulbs, if placed 
thinly in boxes, should then be carried to an 
open shed or outhouse where ample air will 
Teach them. Where large quantities are con¬ 
cerned, the bulbs may be placed on any hard 
path or floor, and covered with lights to 
throw off the wet. Raised G inches above an 


fliiein'cV —M. B., Curl . 

Tufted Pansy Miss E. M. Cann. This is one 
of the richest orange yellow, rayless Tufted Pansies 
in cultivation. We have little sympathy for the huge 
Violas that are so freely shown across the Border at 
many of the northern exhibitions. They certainly re¬ 
present. the flower that the older race of florists liked 
to sec; hut their value in the garden, except in a 
few special instances, is very little. What we want 
in the Tufted Pansies is a disposition to flower freely 
on plants possessing a good constitution and a sturdy, 
tufted habit. The plant under notice partakes of all 
I he characteristics above described, and as the flowers 
are self coloured, they make a very bright and strik¬ 
ing effect. The blossoms are sweet-scented.—C. H. 

Index to Volume XXVIII.- The binding covers 
(price Is. Gd. each, post free, Is. 9d.) and Index (Jkl., 
peat free, .’Ud.) for Volume XXVIII. are now ready, 
uid may be had of all newsagents, or of the Pub¬ 
lisher, post free, 2s. for the two. 


CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

WORK AMONG DECORATIVE CHRYS¬ 
ANTHEMUMS. 

All too often the so-called small-flowered 
decorative Chrysanthemums suffer from 
neglect at this season, and the ill-effects of 
such want of care is often denoted by the 
loss of mycli of the lower foliage of the plants 
when they come into flower. This is not the 
only defect. As a, rule, the blossoms are much 
less interesting from plants that have been 
grown in careless fashion than from those 
that receive their proper share of attention 
from start to finish. The claims of the large- 
flowered exhibition varieties in many estab¬ 
lishments are of paramount importance, and, 
in consequence, the decorative kinds have to 
be satisfied as best they can. Good decora¬ 
tive plants need to be well done to Ihj seen 
at their best, and there is more skill required 
in bringing them to perfection than most 
growers of exhibition blooms are ready to ad¬ 
mit. We have seen the free flowering decora¬ 
tive Chrysanthemums exhibited in first-class 
form and condition, and prettier plants in 
the dull season it is difficult to imagine. To 
be represented in this fashion the plants have 
received incessant attention. A regular and 
systematic overlooking of the plants at cer¬ 
tain specified times has been rigidly adhered 
to, and tliis has varied according to the 
character of the weather at the time. In 
warm weather more frequent overlooking has 
been necessary. The decorative Chrysanthe¬ 
mums should have a good open position — 
equally as open and airy as that generally re¬ 
served for the large-flowered exhibition kinds. 
Sun and air must be taken full advantage of, 
as these two factors contribute more to a suc¬ 
cessful issue than most growers are, perhaps, 
aware. You cannot get good blooms or a 
good spray of blossoms from growths that are 
green and immature. It is only when the 
shoots are gradually hardened by long con¬ 
tinued exposure to both sun and air that- 
really satisfactory blossoming can be ensured. 
For tli is reason, then, take advantage of the 
present period to give the plants the facilities 
herein advocated. There is fully six weeks 
to two months during which much useful work 
in this direction may be done, so that, should 
the plants have been put in out-of-the-way 
oorners or in unsatisfactory conditions 
hitherto this season, lose no time in placing 
them iu better and more satisfactory quar¬ 
ters. Within a few weeks—possibly earlier— 
buds will be developing quite freely. The 
earlier sorts may evolve their buds by the 
end of August, while others may be a week 
or two later before doing so. Terminal buds 
are the only buds that should be retained of 
the decorative kinds, as they are produced 
quite freely in clusters, open freely, and 
usually possess the quality of developing 
blooms of good colour. Terminal blooms sel¬ 
dom damp, and this is a great advantage in 
the dull and moist weather of our English 
climate in the late autumn. Should the 
grower desire to produce blooms of good 
quality from a terminal bud selection, he 
should remove all buds from the cluster, ex¬ 
cept the largest and best shaped of the whole 
series. On the other hand, should he prefer 
to have three nice blossoms on each stem, 
reduce the buds to this number, leaving them 
equidistant on the shoot. A freer display of 
beautiful sprays of blossoms may be had by 
thinning out the more crowded buds, so that 
each flower that ultimately develops may 
open satisfactorily without being crowded. 
These are simple rules to observe that in¬ 
variably bring a most excellent reward in the 
flowering season. E. G. 


>y Google 


NOTES AND HE PLIES. 

Early-flowering Chrysanthemums in new 
ground.— I have just been looking through a 
large collection of early-flowering outdoor 
Chrysanthemums that were planted a little 
later than the orthodox period of early May. 
The plants have not done at all well, and 
this may be attributed to the method in which 
(he quarters were prepared. The ground 
they at present occupy was, until the turn of 
the year, an old pasture, and tin* soil, or, at 
least, the top spit, was found to be us fine a 
breadth of tuT,fy loaip jas pi ( ie could well w ish. 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 







The owner simply had the ground bastard 
trenched, and the best soil, the top spit, was 
thrown into the bottom of the trench, and 
sour subsoil brought to the surface. The 
prepared ground looked very nice when 
finished, but exposure to the weather has 
hardened the surface, and unless the soil is 
frequently etirred it is impossible to aerate 
it. This aeration needs to be done with 
soil of this kind so frequently that, time 
pressing for other work in the gaaden, the 
weekly hoeing has been neglected, and the 
plants have suffered in consequence. In just 
a few cases the stronger growing varieties 
tlx* plants look fairly well, but the majority 
of them are sorry specimens. The plants are 
disposed to ripen their wood prematurely 
through failing to root freely, and this has 
brought on a crop of buds on plants of quite 
miniatur? proportions. The only thing to do 
now is to persistently hoe between the plants, 
working in at the same time a quantity of 
gritty soil and well-rotted horse-manure. 
This has been done in the case of a few rows, 
and the plants have improved in consequence. 
It is possible, even at this protracted period, 
to save the situation, so to speak, by dealing 
with the plants in the manner suggested. 
Failure might have been largely minimised 
had the soil been broken up thoroughly before 
planting. — A. R. H. 

Two-year-old outdoor Chrysanthemums. 

—The present growing period has again 
proved the value of old stools when properly 
dealt with. Plants two years old, and others 
that have been in the same position for 
several years, are doing exceedingly well this 
season. There is a tendency, however, with 
the younger plants (two years old) to grow 
away rather too vigorously, and unless the 
growths are kept well under control they are 
likely to give some trouble by-and-bye. keep 
them staked and tied securely, and endeavour 
to preserve the natural beauty of the plants. 
Do not bunch them tightly, as is commonly 
done, but leave plenty of room for the vigor¬ 
ous branching growths to develop. Any 
weakly growths that are likely to interfere 
with the even character of the display later 
on should be promptly removed. Plants of 
this description should make a glorious dis¬ 
play in the outdoor garden, in a short time, 
and from this source an abundant supply of 
cut flowers should be available.—C. A. II. 

Early-flowering Chrysanthemum Piercy’s 
Seedling. —This fine old English-raised Pom¬ 
pon Chrysanthemum promises wonderfully 
well this season. Both new and old plants 
look promising, and are full of buds. Some 
old plants of quite large dimensions are al¬ 
ready in flower, and the blossoms are quite 
large in size and of good quality. The colour 
is an attractive bronze, parsing to yellowish- 
bronze with age. This plant was raised by 
the late Mr. W. Piercy, of Forest Hill, S.E., 
who must always be regarded as one of the 
pioneers of the early-flowering Chrysanthe¬ 
mum. He was one of the first men to see 
the possible value of the Chrysanthemum for 
border culture, and worked with that object 
in view. He lived long enough to see the 
great awakening to this fact by English gar¬ 
deners, and was greatly cheered with what 
had been accomplished in the few years im¬ 
mediately prior to bis decease. The variety 
under notice is largely grown, and will ably 
serve to perpetuate the memory of so ardent 
a flower lover.- E. G. 


ORCHIDS. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 
Odontoglossum citrosmum (E. <1., Ti\try). 
—The flowering season of Odontoglossum 
citrosmum is usually about May ami June ; 
the flower-spikes are produced from the 
centre of the young shoots when they are a 
few inches high. At the present time the 
plant should he in full growth, and should 
be suspended well up to the roof glass in a 
light position in the Cattleya house, or where 
the temperature ranges between 60 degs. and 
70 degs. It is important that the plant should 
be in a position where plenty of ventilation 
is admitted, especially at night subject, of 
course, to the condition of the external at¬ 
mosphere. Plenty of water should be 
afforded all through the growing season, and 


Digitized by (jOO^lC 


particularly when the new pseudo-bulbs are 
forming, as at that time the plants should be 
gradually exposed to full sunshine, and the 
compost’will dry very rapidly; but when the 
growths are completed and the pseudo-bulbs 
fully matured, the supply should be dimi¬ 
nished to a quantity sufficient to keep the 
roots and the pseudo-bulbs plump. If during 
the resting season the weather is severe ana 
the temperature of the house is kept at about 
50 degs. to 55 degs., the plants will require 
but little water, and, owing to dryness, the 
pseudo-bulbs will shrivel slightly, but no harm 
will aoome if they have been properly 
matured at the completion of growth. In the 
spring, when growth recommences, very little 
watering is necessary, but so soon as the 
young flower-spikes are seen pushing up 
through the centre of the growth, water must 
be liberally afforded. When repotting be¬ 
comes necessary, the best time for the opera¬ 
tion is immediately after the flowers fade. 
It is preferable that the plant should be 
grown either in a shallow pan or Teak-wood 
basket that may easily be suspended to the 
roof, in which way the long, pendulous 
racemes can be effectively seen. The recep¬ 
tacle should be well drained, and the potting 
material should be the same as is generally 
used for other Odontoglossums. 

Habenaria Susannas (Orch'xlht , N.B.).— 
Habenaria Susannre is a terrestrial, tuberous- 
rooted, deciduous Orchid. It is widely dis¬ 
tributed in the East, as plants have been 
found in India, Burmah. in the Indian Archi¬ 
pelago, also in the Malay Peninsula. It is 
generally found in verv warm, sheltered, 
moist places, therefore it is very doubtful if 
tlie plant will thrive for long together in your 
cool Odontoglossum house. A better position 
would be in a moist, shady corner of the ordi¬ 
nary plant stove, and as near to the roof 
glass,as possible, so as to prevent the glow¬ 
ing stems from becoming too much drawn. 
Afford th 1 plant plenty of root moisture all 
through the growing season, but immediately 
the flowers are past the foliage and stem will 
commence to die down, when the quantity of 
water must he considerably reduced, and the 
plant exposed to full sunshine, in order that 
the tubers may become thoroughly matured. 
After the, stems have died down place the 
pot on a dry shelf in the same house, and 
afford a slight sprinkling of water on the 
surface of the soil about once a week, but 
only if it is verv dry. This treatment should 
be continued all through the resting period. 
When growth again commences the tubers 
should be repotted singly into rather deep 
pots of moderate size, affording plenty of 
drainage materials, and only a thin layer of 
the following compost for the plant to root 
into: Good fibrous peat, loam, and Sphag¬ 
num Moss in equal proportions, adding a 
moderate quantity of small crocks and coarse 
silver-sand. Mix the materials well together 
and pot moderately firm. 

FERNS. 

HARDY FERN NOTES. 

OfiMUNPA gracilis. Quite distinct from 
other members of the family, this species, 
although not so imposing as O. cinnamomea 
and regalis, is capable of producing a fine 
effect. The dark colour of the stems and the 
slender habit distinguish it from other mem¬ 
bers of the family. My largest specimen has 
been in position about twenty years, the 
fronds attaining a height of from 2£ feet to 
3.V feet, according to the season. Like all 
the Osmund;us, it only shows its true char¬ 
acter when the supply of moisture to the roots 
is fairly abundant during the growing season. 

Onoclea sensibilis. —The Japan Oak 
Fern, under favourable e i re urn stances, ex¬ 
tends freely by means of its creeping rhi¬ 
zomes. and is, therefore, well adapted for 
covering bare spaces in the woodland and 
wild garden. The tender green of the fronds 
is very pleasing, but this Fern suffers acutely 
when exposed to beat and drought, and 
should, therefore, be planted where the fronds 
are screened from the sun’s rays, otherwise 
they are apt to shrivel. It is a capital sub¬ 
ject for naturalising in the woodland, where 
the effect of dryness at the roots would he 
counteracted by the shelter afforded by de¬ 


ciduous trees, which allows light to filter 
through but maintains a cool and. to a cer¬ 
tain degree, moist atmosphere. I have this 
Fern growing among Periwinkles and other 
things, and, once established, it holds its own 
very well. 

Struthtopteris germanica (the Ostrich 
Plume Fern) increases in the same manner as 
the preceding kind. A single plant set out in 
good ground w ill, in the course 6f two or three 
j^ars, form quite a colony. When the fronds 
are in course of development they much re¬ 
semble an ostrich plume in shape, and have a 
delightfully fresh appearance. Like the 
Onoclea, it cannot bear exposure to sun and 
drying winds, which destroy the freshness of 
the fronds bv the time they are fully matured. 
On the north side of a wall or trees where 
Only the morning and afternoon sun comes, 
this Fern is happy, and will retain its ex¬ 
quisite freshness all through the growing 
time. Some three years ago I planted half-a- 
dozen good roots in free ground, and these 
have formed a colony of some thirty plants 
of varying heights and bulk. In this way the 
Ostrich Plume shows to the best advantage. 

SCOLOPENDRIUM VULGARE.—A grower of 
hardy Ferns lists upwards of four hundred 
varieties of the common Hart’s-tongue, but 
no Fern lover needs so many, and 1 venture 
to assert that the difference between many of 
them is so slight as to need the eye of an 
expert to distinguish one from the other. The 
larger portion of these varieties was found in 
Ireland, where soil and climate exercise a 
curious influence on this species. Some 
varieties, such as Crispum digitatum and 
graiuliceps, arc? handsome when they are 
happily placed, but. in. my opinion, the typi¬ 
cal form excels them in effectiveness. In 
richness of verdure it is not equalled by any 
other British species, and, being evergreen, 
one is able to enjoy that verdure all the year 
through. 

Adiantum PEDATHM (the hardy Maiden¬ 
hair) is so distinct that it cannot be? excluded 
from a representative collection of hardy 
Ferns. It must, however, have a position 
which secures it against, the influence of those 
biting winds which affect exotic vegetation 
more than still frost. In very severe weather 
it is advisable to protect the crow/is with some 
light material. It likes a very free soil, equal 
parts of loam, leaf soil, and peat suiting it 
best. J- CORNHTLI.. 


ROOM AND WINDOW. 

Table decorations at the National Sweet 
Pea Society's Show.— There were no less 
than thirty-two decorated tables in all— 
eighteen in the class from which the “trade” 
was excluded, and fourteen in the class open 
to all comers. It was, indeed, a remarkable 
display. Each exhibitor had allotted to him 
or her a table measuring 8 feet by 3 feet, and 
the stipulation was that the flowers used 
should oe confined to Sweet Peas only, and 
any appropriate foliage. This part of the 
exhibition was a great source of attraction. 
We must, confess, however, that most of the 
decorations were very mediocre in their con¬ 
ception of what is art, in floral arrangements, 
and the exhibitors still have much to learn. 
Unlike last year’s display, there was nothing 
in either competition that could be regarded 
as original, the majority of the exhibitors 
being content to use metal stands of various 
designs, which militate against originality of 
ideas. We liked the first prize display in the 
non-trade section. This was composed of 
Countess Spencer Sweet Pea of good colour, 
the flowers large and borne on long foot¬ 
stalks. each spike of blossoms standing out 
w'ell from its neighbour. Being finished off 
with trailing sprays of a well known Sela- 
ginella, the decoration deservedly won first 
prize. In other cases the colours were 
curiously mixed, and in a few instances a 
contrast of Henry Eckford and a cream- 
coloured Sweet Pea was effective, and conse¬ 
quently received an award. Bjue and laven¬ 
der were used in several instances with other 
colours to make a pleasing contrast, but 
while these colours were charming in the day¬ 
light, under artificial light they would he of 
little value, and wore, possibly, for this 
reason passed by. -W. V. T. 

Original from 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




August 17. I9C7 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


323 


TREE8 AND SHRUBS. 

A WISTARIA COVERED WALK. 
Beautifying the entrance to an old mill- 
house in a little country village in Hampshire, 
this Wistaria may be seen. The tree is evi¬ 
dently of many years’ growth, and entirely 
covers the walk of about 30 yards in length. 
On the side of the path opposite the wall 
stout poles have been fixed with cross-bars, 
which support the branches of the tree. The 
clusters of blossoms drooping from overhead 
and on either side give us a wealth of colour, 
form, and fragrance, which it would he 
hard to surpass, even with a Rose-covered 
pergola. G. E. M. 

BERBERIS FASCICULARIS. 

There are many beautiful shrubs among the 
evergreen and deciduous varieties of Ber- 


from California, has small, much-divided 
leaves, with a glaucous under surface, and in 
its wealth of bloom is 6een to considerable 
advantage growing on a sunny house-front. 
There are, I am convinced, many much less 
deserving shrubs employed for this purpose. 


CLOTHING BARE PLACES UNDER 
TREES. 

Grass will not grow well under a dense 
shade; even when frequently renewed the re¬ 
sult is unsatisfactory. Yet, in conspicuous 
positions, the hare earth lias an objectionable 
appearance, and the substitution of some¬ 
thing of an evergreen character becomes a 
matter of importance. Whatever is chosen 
must either have a creeping habit, like that 
of Ivy, throwing out roots wherever the 
branches come into contact with the soil, 


that falL upon and are buried amongst its 
branches, or that are drifted by the wind, if 
not absolutely unsightly, should be allowed 
to remain for the purpose of affording 
nourishment. Euonymus radicans variegatus 
will likewise grow in shady places, and when 
planted somewhat thickly, and pegged down, 
it soon forms a close carpet. But this, and, 
indeed, all other plants that may be used for 
the purpose of forming a close undergrowth, 
should be given a fair start. It often hap¬ 
pens that the soil under large trees is tho¬ 
roughly exhausted, and to plant in it without 
some addition would probably be useless ; 
first break up the surface as far as can be 
done without injuring the roots of the trees, 
and then spread over it 3 inches or 4 inches 
of good soil; there would then be a chance 
of the plants used becoming established be¬ 
fore the roots of the trees monopolised the 
fresh soil, and, when well-established, they 



A Wistaria walk. From a photograph sent by Mi.*s G. E. Malet, The Mill House, Petersfield. 


beris, one of the most familiar, perhaps, be¬ 
ing the deep golden B. Darwini. A kind, 
however, equally beautiful is that above 
named. On Mrs. Hunt’s commodious resi¬ 
lience, abutting on the High street, at 
Steeple Ashton, Wilts, this handsome Ber- 
beris in April and May provides a floral 
spectacle which is rarely seen. It evidently 
has occupied its position for many years, for 
almost one half of the house-front from the 
ground to the eaves is thickly furnished in 
its season with long, drooping sprays of its 
pale golden blossom. The density of its foli¬ 
age forms an effective foil to the bright 
flowers, and the wonder is that it is so rarely 
employed for the covering of house-fronts. 
The aspect occupied by this Steeple Ashton 
specimen is a sunny one, and it has an equally 
effective companion sharing another portion 
of the same wall in the spring flowering 
Clematis montana. B. fascieularia comes 

Digitized by GOOgle 


thus always maintaining a clean, fresh ap¬ 
pearance ; or else, like the Periwinkles, lx* 
able quickly to renew themselveR from their 
base. Take, for instance, either the large or 
small Periw inkle ; masses of either of these 
usually look worn and shabby towards the 
end of March, but trim off the discoloured 
growth and foliage, and in a short time they 
will be beautiful again ; and if any light at ail 
reach them they will flower in the greatest 
profusion. There is scarcely anything so good 
as Periwinkles for covering shady banks, 
where the soil is of an inferior description. 
Even Tvy takes some time to establish itself 
in bad soil, but the large common Periwinkle 
(Vinca major) will grow in anything and al¬ 
most anywhere. One of the creeping rooted 
St. John’s-worts (Hypericum calycinum) will 
also grow well in shady positions ; once get it 
established, and rut. it back occasionally, and 
it. will give no further trouble ; but all leaves 


would be able to hold their own in the con¬ 
test. Wherever Ivy is employed—and there 
is nothing that looks neater or is better 
adapted for making quick growth, either 
under the dense shade of the Cedar of Le¬ 
banon or the heavy drip of the Beech—it 
should he kept from climbing the trees if they 
are choice and valuable specimens ; and where 
fresh soil is applied as a top dressing in 
which to plant, it. should he placed quite 
close to the trunk of the trees. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Sweet Chestnut-tree —1 am sending you a small 
branch of a Sweet Chestnut-tree, taken from a tree 
in my brother’s wood at Carnanton, which strikes me 
as very uncommon, and I am also sending a branch 
taken from another tree growing near. Can you 
account for the difference?—A. C. W. 

[The distinct form of Chestnut of which you 
enclose a shoot is kj^pwjn asj Castanea sativa 


JIVERSITY OF ILLINC 







324 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


August 17, 1907 


moiidtroda, or cucullata. Though long 
known, it id vei*v little met witli, owing, 
doubtless, to tin* fact, that even at best it 
forms a poor, depauperated tree.] 

The Cape Silver-tree (Leucodendron argen- 
teum).—Though its dried leaves are so often 
seen in the florists’ shops, growing plants of 
the Silver-tree are very rarely met with, 
lienee it was with something of a surprise 
that 1 noted some thrifty little plants forming 
part of a most interesting exhibit contributed 
by Mr. G. Rent he, of Keston, Kent. The 
plants, I was assured by the exhibitor, had 
been wintered in a cold frame with only the 
protection of a mat during severe weather, 
the soil at times being actually frozen. As 
the plants were in robust health, they would 
appear to he haulier than is generally sup 
post'd, for they are mostly looked upon as 
needing a temperature of 4. r > degs. to . r >:> degs. 
during the winter months. One very notable 
feature is that, however well the plants may 
be cultivated in this country, the leaves never 
acquire the intense silvery hue of those on 
trees grown in the clear atmosphere and be¬ 
neath the brilliant sun of South Africa. X. 

-- - A few weeks ago a note on the above 
tree (Leucodendron argenteum), which grows 
on the elopes of Table Mountain, appeared 
in these columns. It is generally asserted 
that this tree will flourish nowhere except on 
Table Mountain, and certainly the specimens 
to l>e seen in this country are usually in poor 
condition. The writer of the note in ques¬ 
tion says that it needs the protection of a 
greenhouse, and even then is not very amen¬ 
able to cultivation. None of those that I 
have seen under glass have been in a healthy 
condition. Tt. has been frequently tried in 
the open in the south west, hut, as far ns I 
know, without success, except in one instance. 
This solitary example is growing at Trehab, 
on the hanks of Helford River, near Fal¬ 
mouth, and has been in the open for six win¬ 
ters, being now 7 feet in height. Its foliage 
was a little damaged by the past severe 
winter, but not sufficiently to injure the 
plant. The leaves are quite as c lear in colour 
as those of the Table Mountain trees, and 
it is in every way a very healthy specimen.— 
S. W. Fit/.ii kkhekt. 

The Spanish Broom (Spartium junceum). 
- While most members of the Broom family 
are by midsummer past their best, if not 
quite over, this, as a rule, does not com¬ 
mence to bloom till the month of July. The 
Spanish Broom forms a rather upright hush 
from G feet to 8 feet high, made up princi¬ 
pally of dark green, slender, Rush-like shoots. 
The leaves are small and few in number. A 
noteworthy feature is the large size of the 
bright, golden-yellow blossoms, though in 
depth of colour there is a certain amount of 
variation. They are borne in terminal spikes, 
in good examples ns many as twenty in a 
spike, about lialf-u-dozeu of which are gener¬ 
ally open at the same time. Like most of 
the Brooms, this forms a deep descending 
tap root, with very few fibres, on which ac¬ 
count it does not transplant readily. Owing 
to this, seed should he sown where* the plants 
arc to remain; or they must he placed in 
their peniimvent quarters while still young. 
Seeds are produced in quantity, and germi¬ 
nate readily. To ensure bushy plants this 
Broom should lu* stopped two or three times 
when young. 'Flu* deep, descending nature 
of its roots above alluded to stands tin* 
Spanish Broom in gOod stead during a hot 
and dry Hummer, for it is but little affected 
by those conditions. It. is readily obtained 
from nurseries, the plants being often kept 
in pots for the convenience of removal. X. 

Spiraea japonica. This variable species, 
which is more geneially grown under the 
name of Kpinea callosa, is, in some of its 
forms, particularly valuable owing to its late 
flowering. The dwarf varieties, consisting 
of tin* white flowered alba, the pink Buiualda, 
and the lich crimson Anthony Waterer, are 
all delightful low growing shrubs, which, 
with a little attention, will continue to hhmm 
till the end of the summer. In order to 
spread the display over as long a period as 
possible, the teiminal clusters of flowers 
should he cut. off directly they are past their 
best. Only the old cluster must he removed, 
for the secondary ones push out immediately 
below, and keep up a succession of bloom 



for a lengthened period. It is surprising the 
difference between a bed of Anthony Waterer 
treated in this way and one in which the old 
blossoms are allowed to remain on the plants. 
Some of the varieties are of Japanese origin, 
the pretty pink-flowered Bumalda being one. 
This has always a certain number of its leaves 
variegated with creamy-yellow, in some in¬ 
stances embracing entire branches. That the 
more recent form. Anthony Waterer, origi¬ 
nated as a sport therefrom, is shown by the 
fact that this intermittent kind of variegation 
also occurs in the crimson-flowered kind. 
Beside cutting off the old blooms, these dwarf- 
growing Spirreas, which are naturally some¬ 
what shallow-rooting, are greatly benefited 
during a dry summer by a good soaking of 
water, and if the soil is at all poor an occa¬ 
sional application of liquid-manure will be 
helpful. X. 

Pruning shrubs. Tin* proper wav to prune 
flowering shrubs, when such an operation is 
really thought necessary, is not such a simple 
matter ns many suppose, otherwise we should 
not so often see such mutilation done in 
shrubberies at the annual pruning season. 
Generally shrubs are pruned without con¬ 
sidering whether they require it or not. Al¬ 
most invariably, when pruning is done by one 
that is ignorant of the nature of the shrubs, 
the young shoots which bear the flowers are 
pruned away with the old wood. To prune 
shrubs properly some knowledge of the vari¬ 
ous shrubs is required. For instance, it is 
necessary to know the fffirubs that flower on 
the wood of the preceding year; and also 
those which bear flowers on the present sea¬ 
son’s growth—the former to be sparingly 
pruned in winter, so as not to cut away the 
flower-buds; the latter bearing more severe 
pruning. Among those bearing flowers on 
last year’s grow III arc Dwarf Almond. Snowy 
Mespilus. the Andromcdas, Azaleas and Kal¬ 
inins, Rhododendrons, Calycanthus, Cor 
chorus. IMiiludelplius, Deutzia, Mezereon, 
Jasmine, Privet, Bush Honeysuckles, most of 
the early Spiraeas, the ornamental Currants, 
Weigehi, Snowberry, Lilacs, and Annual 
Roses. Amongst shrubs that flower on the 
present season’s growth are Ceanothus, 
Amorplift, Colutea, Euouymtis, Geuistn. 
Shrubby Hypericums, Coronilla, Scotch 
Broom, Althaea. Tamariz, and late Spirceas. 

The Rose of 8haron (Hibiscus svriaeus).— 
In the type the flowers are a reddish-purple, 
but it is such a variable species in respect, to 
colour that there are at least half a dozen 
really distinct varieties of,it in cultivation. 
Of these the names of the best are purpureus, 
rich purple ; variegatus, purple, mottled with 
a lighter hue; ruber, red; albus, white; 
tot us albus, pure white, without the inner 
zone of red at the base of the corolla; and 
Celeste, a beautiful variety with rich blue 
flowers. Then there are the double white and 
double purple kinds, as well as one with varie¬ 
gated foliage, which is effective in a shrub- 
bur during summer. All the varieties are 
perfectly hardy in our climate, and will thrive 
in almost any position in any soil that is not 
too wet, but they flourish best in an open 
position, not too bleak, and in deep rich 
sanely soil. They may be employed in many 
ways in the adornment of shrubberies in 
pleasure grounds. As isolated specimens on 
a law uJ^iey .Inur a.fijie effect if placet] go. os 
to appear to be a component part of the sur 
roundings ; planted in groups so that the 
colours limy harmonise, they are equally 
striking, but perhaps the best way is to plant 
them so as to l»* embowered by evergreen 
foliage, which not only sets off the flowers to 
advantage*, but modifies the bare appearance 
of the leafless twigs in winter. It is also 
known as Altluca frutex. 

Deutzias I know nothing more horuitifiil than 
large plants of l>. scahra standing <>n the Grass. I 
have several thus placed, and now, in the last, half 
nf July, they are a mass of flowers. The Drill Kin P 
useful for cutting, and when the (lowers are allowed 
to he fully open, then they stand a long time. When 
used in long sprajs they are delightful in lug vases, 
etc. J. CKOOK. 


‘‘The English Flower Garden and Home 

Grounds." -New Edition, 10th, repined, icith descrip • 
tions of all the bent plants, trees, and shrubs, their 
culture and arrangement, illustrated on wood. Cloth, 
medium. Son., 15s .; post free, 15s. Cd. 

“The English Flower Garden" may also lx 
had finely bound in 2 imis., half vellum, S/>*. nett. Of 
all hnnksellsr*. 


INDOOR PLANT3. 

FAILURE OF ZONAL PELARGONIUMS. 
1 have read with no little interest your reply, 
on page 294, to “E. J. P.,” for 1 also have 
had trouble in a mysterious way with my 
Zonals this season. Twenty years ago 1 used 
to grow this flower with some success, and, 
after giving them up for so long a time, I 
began again last year by laying in a nice 
little stock of some of the best of the modern 
sorts. In the autumn of last year and the 
spring of the present year I took a number of 
cuttings, all of which, with a few exceptions, 
were well rooted by the end of April, and 
ready for potting off. My old plants were 
also repotted, but, to my surprise, many of 
them and of the cuttings began to rot at the 
root, and died. I suppose I must have for¬ 
gotten, in the long interval, some detail of 
culture. The soil used for the potting wan 
something similar to that recommended in 
your note, with the exception that instead 
of sand I used road sweepings off a flinty 
road. Soon afterwards many of my cuttings 
and plants began to flag, the edges of the 
leaves turned yellow, and, finally, black rot 
appeared at the hast* of the stem, gradually 
extending upward. In some eases the mis¬ 
chief was longer in appearing, for out of the 
old plants there have been several that grew 
well for a time and flowered satisfactorily, 
and then they, too, went the same way as 
the otlu *rs. 

The Zonal lias always been a great favourite 
of mine, and some of the modern sorts— 
Cerise. Hall Caine, Frogmore. Geo. Coates, 
Princess of Wales, King Victor, C. H. 
Curtis, Mentmore, Aseott, etc.— are wonder¬ 
ful improvements on those I knew twenty to 
twenty-five years ago. It. is a great disap¬ 
pointment. to find one’s plants behaving in 
this way, but, of course, I must be at fault 
somewhere, (’lean pots and careful crocking 
were secured, but 1 ought to add that a sjuall 
portion of bone dust was used, mixed with 
the soil. Can this be the cause of the trouble? 
My house is well situated, being a lean to 
facing due south, ventilation ample, and the 
plants have nut been watered until the 
“ring” of the pot suggested the need of 
water—and then nothing but rain-water lias 
been given. In these days of numerous gar 
d-ening hooks on almost every conceivable 
subject, bow' is it there is no little cultural 
man uni on so popular a flower as the Zonal? 

Amateur. 


LILIUM SPECIOSUM IN THE 
GREENHOUSE. 

By the middle of August many of the green¬ 
house plant** that have contributed to its 
embellishment for a long time are getting past 
their best, and it is then that this Lily comes 
in exceedingly useful. - From Christmas on¬ 
wards through the month of January, bulbs 
that, have been sent, to this country from 
Japan can be obtained at a fairly cheap rate, 
ami give but little trouble to have them in 
flower now. When received, they should he 
potted as soon n.s possible, using for single 
bulbs pots b inched or f» inched in diameter, 
while, by putting weveral together in^large 
pots or tubs, effective masses nuiy be formed. 
Ordinary potting comp*at, such as two thirds 
loam to one-third of leaf mould, and a libernl 
duali of aand, will suit thin Lily well. In 
potting, the bull'd must be covered with soil, 
lint o^rpttre should. If possible,'dim-left, to 
allow of a top-dressing of good soil after the 
steins are pushed up. and the roots which 
form at. their base dhow themselves. These 
Htem-roots at once take possession of the new 
soil, and greatly assist in the development of 
the blossoms. When potted, a cold frame 
is a very suitable place for these Lilies, as the 
lights serve to keep off very heavy rains, and 
a mat may bo thrown over them in severe 
weather. At first, the soil must be kept 
slightly moist, but Od tin* roots take possession 
of it. the water supply must be increased. 
Plenty of air whenever possible id very necen- 
sftrv, in order to ensure a good, sturdy 
growth. By the middle of May they may ho 
fully exposed to the outside air, either by 
removing them from the frame or by leaving 
off the* lights altogether. With this treat¬ 
ment they will be a few weeks earlier in 
flowering than tWhso in the open ground, 


UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


August 17, 1007 


G.JUDEA 7.A V ILLUSTRATED. 


325 


and, as above stated, they are at this time 
particularly valuable. As the pots get. full 
of roots, and the buds are developing, an oc¬ 
casional dose of weak liquid manure is of 
great service. Aphides or green-fly rarely 
ive any trouble in the case of this Lily, 
’here are several varieties of Lilium spe- 
ciosum, the most generally met with being 
from Japan : Kraatzeri, * white, with a 
greenish centre ; rubrum, pink ; and Melpo- 


GAUDEN VARIETIES OK FUCHSIA. 

Apart from their great Itenuly and graceful 
character, the garden varieties of Fuchsia arc 
especially interesting, showing as they do such 
a marked divergence from the wild type. 
Thus, in the different species which have 
played a part in the production of the garden 
forms, the flowers are small, single, red, and 
with a darker-coloured corolla, whereas the 



Fuchsia Ethel. 


mono, carmine, the richest coloured of all. 
From Holland wo receive album, white, with 
a brownish tinge outside, and ruhrum, usually 
almost, if not quite, identical, pinkish. 

X. 


Zonal Pelargonium Rcforniator.—I saw (his 
new Pelargonium a few days hark, and think it is 
one that will heroine even more popular than Paul 
Crampel. Its searh t. shade is most brilliant and 
strikinc. The truces oUH^itn are imt sofa rue as in 
Paul Cramnel. hut tin/ are wn*if pm 

fusionUigjiiied tv VjV_m ^xlvT 


| vari< ties of to-day show a wide range of 
[ colour, from the white sepals and petals and 
red corolla of the form herewith figured, to 
the dark red flowers, both single and double, 
many of them very large, while a decided 
| break away from either is that section in 
which the corolla is pure white. Reside tin* 
memliers of these three primary groups there 
are others with flowers more or less inter¬ 
mediate in colour and formation. The origin 
of these various breaks from the normal form 


extends back many years, the earliest being 
the varieties with white tube and sepals, 
followed after a time by those with light, 
coloured corollas. About sixty years aeo the 
first variety with white tube and sepals, Venus 
Victrix, was distributed by Messrs. Cripps, 
of Tunbridge Wells, and at the price of a 
guinea a plant the demand for it was great. 
This variety still figures in Messrs. Cannell’s 
catalogue, as also does Guiding Star, a very 
popular variety of forty years ago, and still 
unsurpassed for the symmetrical character of 
its blossoms. Another of much the same age 
as this last is Rose of Castile, one of the best 
for standing outside during the summer 
months. In the year 1855 great interest was 
aroused by the distribution (from the then 
famous nursery of Messrs. Henderson, of St. 
John’s Wood) of some now varieties with 
white corollas. They were raised by a Mr. 
Story, of Newton Abbott, but, unfortunately, 
no records were kept of their origin, hence 
whether seedlings or sports, all that we know 
is that they were the starting point of this 
now extensive class. One variety, Countess 
of Aberdeen, stands out in quite a class by 
itself, for the flowers ore almost pure white - 
that is, if they are grown in a shady struc¬ 
ture, but when exposed to the sun they l>c- 
come suffused with pink. It is an extremely 
pretty little Fuchsia, and very free flowering. 
This was distributed by Messrs. Cocker, of 
Aberdeen, nearly twenty years ago, I should 
say. 

Fuehsias may be grown as neat busby plants 
in comparatively small pots, and, as such, are 
much used for greenhouse decoration, and for 
many other purposes. They are in this way 
grown by the thousand for market, and per¬ 
fect little specimens may often be seen on the 
costermonger’s barrows in the streets of Lon¬ 
don. Very few varieties conform to the 
market grower’s ideal, for bis requirements 
are a good sturdy growth and freedom of 
blooming. The flowers must, not be too large, 
as in the shifting about incidental to their 
distribution the very heavy blooms are liable 
to drop and. from their size, they leave a 
much larger gap than the loss of a small or 
medium sized flower entails. Fuchsias may 
also be grown as sturdy bushes or as stan¬ 
dards, while at one time, especially in the 
west of England, large pyramidal shaped 
specimens were familiar features at the dif¬ 
ferent exhibitions during the summer. For 
pillars in tin* greenhouse or conservatory, or 
for the roof, Fuchsias occupy a foremost rank. 
When on a roof, and well above the head of 
the spectator, the blossoms display their 
charms to the full, a remark which applies 
with equal force to them when they are 
treated as basket plants. As the Fuchsia 
flourishes 60 well out-of-doors during the 
summer, the various forms are used for many 
purposes. For furnishing balconies, window 
boxes, etc., they are very satisfactory, while 
large specimens in pots arc often sunk in the 
turf during the summer. In this way they 
are employed more and more every year. 

Culture. One very important item that 
tends to make the Fuchsia such a popular 
favourite is its simple cultural requirements, 
and the fact that it may be wintered in any 
house just free from frost. The soil best 
suited for Fuchsias is a moderately light com¬ 
post, such as a mixture of two parts loam to 
one part of leaf-mould, with, if possible, a 
little dried cow manure and sand. Through¬ 
out the winter, when the plants are leafless, 
but little water will Is* needed ; still, the soil 
must not lx* allowed to become parched up, 
otherwise the roots will suffer. If the plants 
are stored in a greenhouse, thev should, in 
the month of March, be trimmed into sha]>e, 
and if the leaf-buds arc on the point of burst¬ 
ing, be repotted. In doing this a good deal 
of the ohl and exhausted soil should be re¬ 
moved, as when the plants are in that stage 
it can be done without injuring them, 
whereas if the new growth is an inch or 
*2 inches long it is liable to suffer. After pot¬ 
ting, the plants should have a good light posi¬ 
tion in the greenhouse, and particular care 
must be taken not to overwater till the roots 
have taken possession of the new soil. An 
occasional bedewing with the syringe on hot 
days is very helpful. As the flowers develop 
and the pots get full of rdots weak manure- 
water about every fortnight M ill greatly assist 

WINnViWimpfay. H-LIIMUIj Mi 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 













326 


Gardening il l vstra te d. 


Auoust 17. 1907 


Propagation ia readily effected by moans 
of cuttings formed of the voung growing 
shoots in the spring. These cuttings (about 
3 inches long) should be dibbled into clean, 
well-drained pots of sandy soil, well watered, 
and placed in a close propagating case. If 
such is not at hand a shallow box (but deep | 
enough to take the cuttings) with a few 
squares of glass laid over the top will be a 
good substitute. Of course, the cuttings 
•must be shaded from the sun till rooted, when 
they may be inured to the ordinary atmos¬ 
phere of the house and in time potted off. 

Sheds. —The raising of seedlings is very 
interesting, especially if the seed has been 
taken from carefully fertilised flowers. Sown 
in February, a few of the seedlings will bloom 
the first year, but they cannot l>e depended 
upon to show their true character till the 
second season ; indeed, any that are at all 
promising may be kept till the third year 
before finally discarding them. With the vast 
number of varieties now in cultivation, and 
the extent to which individual fancies vary, 
combined with the purposes for which the 
plants may be intended, it is not an easy 
matter to make a good selection of Fuchsias, 
hut for greenhouse decoration the following 
can all be depended upon us good and 
distinct: — 

Single flowers. — 117/ he corollas: Do 
Goucourt, Flocon dc Neige. White tube, and 
sepals: Ethel, Lady Ileytesbury, Princess 
May, Starlight. Dark-coloured flowers: 
Champion, Gertrude Pearson, General 
Roberts, Scarcity, Valiant, Wave of Life. 
With a certain amount of orantjc ■in the 
corolla: Earl of Beaeonsfield, Mrs. Rundle, 
Prince of Orange. 

Double flowers.— Dark: Armand Gau¬ 
tier, Avalanche, Cointe Leon Tolstoi, Cham¬ 
pion of the World, Marvellous, Phenomenal. 
Dark with while corollas: Ballet Girl, Doc 
d’A u m ale. Moles worth. 

Beside these there are a few garden varie¬ 
ties remarkable for their foliage, and on this 
account they are often used for the flower 
garden. Of these may be especially men¬ 
tioned Cloth of Gold, Golden Treasure, and 
Meteor, all with foliage more or less of R 
golden or bronzy hue, and Sunray, whose 
h aves are irregularly variegated with white, 
red. and green. X. 


NOTES AND HE PLIES. 

Ixoras in flower. —It is not so many years 
since Ixorae wore very generally grown as 
specimen plants in the stove; but when these 
large bushes went out of fashion, Ixoras be¬ 
came almost lost to cultivation. The last 
three or four years they have, however, shown 
signs of returning once more into popular 
favour, and at the show Inst month at Hol¬ 
land House some neat, well-flowered 
examples were to be seen. It is true they 
were not the Ixoras of old—that is to say. 
veritable bushes—but neat, fresh plants, eaeli 
carrying several heads of blooms, and all in 
comparatively small pots. Given a soil prin¬ 
cipally composed of fibrous peat and sand, 
a stove temperature, and a liberal use of the 
syringe, Ixoras will do well. They are rather 
liable to be attacked by mealy-bug, but a 
drop of methylated spirit will at once destroy 
these, pests. A small bottle of this spirit and 
a camel's hair brush is extremely handy to 
keep, either in stove or greenhouse, as, if a 
solitary bug makes its appearance, it can be 
at once destroyed. There is quite a long list 
of species and varieties, but many of these 
last closely resemble eaoh other, so that a 
selection is necessary. Quite distinct from 
each other are acuminata, white; aurantiaca, 
orange-red ; Prince of Orange, bright orange ; 
West ii, rose-pink; Williarnsii, salmon - red ; 
eoccinea lutea, soft yellow; and macrothvrsa 
or Dufli, quite distinct from the rest. This 
is a taller grower, with large heads of bright 
crimson-coloured flowers.—X. 


Clerodendron fallax.— The genus Clero 
dendron is a fairly extensive one, whose mem¬ 
bers show a marked divergence from each 
other in many ways. One species, C. tricho* 
tomuni, is hardy, and attains the dimensions 
of a small tree; another, that withstands our 
winters. C. foeticlum, is almost herbaceous in 
character; while of those that require pro¬ 
tection of stove or gpcyi house, some are 


Digitize 


boogie 


climbers, while others are of bushy habit. 
The species above mentioned—C. fallax— 
which has been for some time, and still is, 
a very effective feature in the greenhouse, is 
seen to the best, advantage when the plants 
are confined to a single stem, as, if grown on 
freely, it will reach a height of 3 feet to 4 feet, 
the lowermost half of which is furnished with 
bold, oppositely arranged, heart-shaped 
leaves, and the upper portion consists of a 
large, erect, broadly pvramidal-ohaped 
panicle of blossoms, which are of a deep, 
bright scarlet colour. From the one panicle 
a display of flowers is kept up for a long 
time. Though generally treated as a stove 
plant, this Clerodendron will in the green¬ 
house flower throughout the summer months. 
It is readily propagated by cuttings of the 
young, growing shoots, by seeds, or by root- 
cuttings, and the young plants so obtained 
quickly reach flowering size. It is a native 
of Java, and therefore one would scarcely 
expect it to succeed in the greenhouse even 
during the summer. In the winter it needs 
the temperature of an intermediate house.— 
X. 


ROSES. 

SCARLET, RED, AND DARK-COLOURED 
HYBRID PERPETUAL ROSES. 

The dearth of good red Hybrid Teas, and 
the want of fragrance in so many of the 
newer and older sorts of this tribe seems to 
comj>cl us to go to the Hybrid Perpetuals, 
both for vivid colours and fragrance. It may 
be that raisers will have to turn their atten¬ 
tion more to improving the Hybrid Per- 
petuals, and give the Hybrid Teas a rest for 
a while. If we can receive more glorious 
crimsons like 

•Hugh Dickson there can be no doubt as 
to their reception. Perhaps this Rose is as 
much a Hybrid Tea as many already in that 
group, but its general appearance places it 
with the Hybrid Perpetuals. Mow grandly 
its massive blossoms appear at the end of the 
beautiful rich ruby-red coloured growths, and 
the shapely buds and half-open flowers are de¬ 
lightful. to say nothing of the sweet fragrance. 
Another fine Rose of recent introduction is 

•Commandant Felix Faure. —We have in 
this excellent variety a flower of intense 
colouring—a sort of scarlet with a maroon 
shading. No Rose this season has attracted 
more notice,, unless it be Hugh Dickson, and 
its delicious scent will make it doubly valu¬ 
able. The blooms are well displayed, they 
being borne erect on stiffish growths, so that 
for the garden this variety would be a most 
useful one. 

•Captain Hayward is a very reliable sort, 
although somewhat thin. It is a Rust*, how¬ 
ever, that cannot be left out of our selection, 
as apart from its bright red blossoms it is a 
good autumnal, which, of course, is what we 
want. 

Louis Van Houtte remains, even after 
the lapse of nearly thirty years, one of our 
best rich crimsons. It is splendid when 
budded on the seedling Brier, and, perhaps, 
our best autumnal crimson. The massive 
Full flowers are of a glorious colour, and very 
sweet. Perhaps there is a little fault in tIn¬ 
growth, but this often arises from uncon¬ 
genial stocks which the plants are budded 
upon. It seems so thoroughly at home on the 
Brier that it is not worth while using any 
other for it, anti I would not recommend it to 
be budded as a standard. The old and well- 
tried 

•Duke of Edinburgh 1ms been very 
brilliant this season ; in fact, the scarlets 
and reds have not been finer for some years. 
It is quite a relief to find such Roses at our 
exhibitions. If anyone has had a difficulty in 
flowering Duke of Edinburgh and I would 
class *Duke of Teck with it 1 would advise 
that thev he grown as low pillar Roses, where 
standards are not wanted ; but it must not 
be forgotten that good, healthy young wood 
is needed to keep up the quality, so that it 
is essential to cut old wood awav pretty freely 
each year. A very fine, brilliant Rose is 

Duke of Wellington. -It is an instance 
where old Roses are not surpassed by present- 
day introductions. I know of no modern 
Rose that can compare to this old favourite 


of over forty years’ standing. This variety is 
known also as Rosieriste Jacobs. 

Duke of Albany is a very good variety 
with a particularly bright colour and a 
shapely bloom. There is a tendency on the 
part of many of the rich coloured Roses to 
turn a bluish shade, and also to burn. This 
sort seems quite free from the latter defect, 
and, when growing freely, it retains its colour 
well. 

Eclair has a very double flower— some¬ 
times as perfectly fashioned ns though arti¬ 
ficially moulded. It is a beautiful Rose, well 
worth adding to any collection. We shall, 
probably, never surpass 

Marik Baumann and Alfred Colomb as 
good medium reds. They are somewhat iden¬ 
tical in blossom, but Alfred Colomb is the 
better grower. A well-developed flower of 
either, perhaps, could not. be beaten in the 
whole collection, where form is considered 
the greatest attribute. In 

Alfred K. Williams we have a Rose of 
rather flat appearance, but with the evenness 
of a Camellia. It is a splendid variety where 
it will grow, which is not in every garden, 
but is worth a trial, the grand carmine-red 
colour being very brilliant. When pruning, 
let it be done quite moderately—not nearly so 
severely as is usual with the majority of 
Hybrid Perpetuals. 

•DR. An dry is a fine bright crimson of 
large size, and yields a pretty bud, and plenty 
of them. As a town Rose this would be a 
fine sort to grow. 

•Ulrich Brunner is a first class sort, with 
few, if any. faults, unless it be that its colour 
is wanting in richness. It is a bright cherry- 
red, with fine deep flowers, fragrant, and the 
plant quite mi blew-proof. After a lapse of 
over fifty years we find to-day the old and 
well tried 

•General Jacqueminot as much sought 
after as ever. It is a fine free bloomer, w ith 
a bright scarlet crimson colour. The form is 
globular, rising to a pointed centre. It is 
grand n-s a standard, also on the dwarf Brier, 
hut does not do well on the Manetti. It. suc- 
r -eds well on its own roots, and, as such, 
should be grown where planted permanently. 

•Charles I.efebvre is a superb flower, 
good in every way. Grown on the seedling 
Brier, its noble blossoms come of a lovely 
rich velvety crimson quite first-rate. 

Victor Hugo is a dazzling crimson with a 
beautiful velvety shading. It is not a very 
strong grower, but makes a fine garden Ruse, 
blooming as freely ns any in the group, and 
one tliat is most valuable on account of its 
rich colour. 

•Senateur Vaisse and *Mme. Victor 
Verdier somewhat resemble each other, and 
both arc not required. They are two of the 
good old sorts, free in autumn, and as 
fragrant as they are rich in colour. 

Duke of Connaught is not large, but it 
is one of the most perfectly-shaped Roses we 
have. The colour is bright velvety crimson. 

Prince Arthur is evidently n Rose of the 
General Jacqueminot type. It is a very 
bright crimson, often first-rate, and generally 
found in all show boxes where seventy two 
varieties are staged. 

•Comte Raimbacd is much liked by exhi¬ 
bitors, as it is so very constant and reliable. 
The flowers are large and full, and it is a 
good, useful sort for the early shows. Of the 
very dark Roses 

•Jubilee seems to be as reliable ns any. 
There is not much difference between this 
Rose and Prince C. d * Rohan, but it is freer 
and more good blooms are produced. 

•Abel Carriers is splendid at times, but 
it is not often really first-rate, but I can re¬ 
commend it as a garden Rose where one does 
not. depend upon one sort to make a display. 

•Baron DE Bonhtettkn is of a dark, almost 
black, colour, and is fairly reliable, but so 
many of these very dark Roses either burn in 
bright sun nr rot. off upon the trees when wet 
we a t he r p red om i n a t e s. 

•Louis lilCARn is a grand Rost* of a blackish- 
vermilion colour, with a Pjeony like blossom. 
I cannot conclude these notes without men¬ 
tioning 

•Rugkne Furrt. which is such a good, use¬ 
ful sort. Although Wanting in refinement, 
one may almost always be .sure of a good 


URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


August 17, 1007 


GARDENING ILL USTRATED. 


327 



Hose Mme. Jenny Gillemot. 


to a wonderful 9ize. It seems to come mid¬ 
way between Anna Ollivier and Mine. Pernet 
Ducher. The growth being so good, this 
variety would make an excellent standard, i 
perhaps even rivalling Mme. Pernet Ducher 
in growth, and all who know that charming , 
Rose will remember what a lovelv object it is 
as a standard. Mme. Jenny GriLleinot is a 
very beautiful sort to grow under glass, 
especially in a cool-house, which evidently | 
suits its large petals, for they will develop to i 
a much larger size than when hard forced. ) 
The edges of the petals have also a slight lilac I 
tinge when so grown. It seems to me that i 
Mons. Pernet Ducher obtains good seedlings 
and then he works on them to try to im¬ 
prove the same. In this case the branching 
habit, and the colour seem to point to Mme. 1 
Pauline Bersez as one of the parents of the | 
Rose under notice, and 1 have observed this i 
similarity in many oLJiys eminent j-aiser’s 

Digitized by GOOgle 


is very rapid, richlv clothed with beautiful | 
shining dark green foliage. Pillars are very 
quickly covered ; indeed, in three years one 
may have a 10-feet pillar densely clothed 
with this lovely Rose. Larch poles are, per¬ 
haps. the best supports, the spurs which arc 
left on serving to support the semi-drooping 
sprays, which present the appearance of a 
weeping Rose from the summit of the pole,— 
W. X. 

Rose Lady Moyra Beauclerc. This is a superb 
flower of the Mrs. E. Mauley type, but of a dif¬ 
ferent colour. The flowers are very massive, espe¬ 
cially on cut-back plants, and they possess that high- 
pointed centre so dear to the exhibitor. The colour 
is bright madder rose, with silvery-pink reverse, 
growth strong and sturdy, throwing up good stout 
stalks to the blossoms, which render them most use¬ 
ful for cutting. It is a Rose one could wish there , 
were more of its type, for it combines quality of 
blossom with freedom of flowering and vigorous i 
habit. It was raised by Messrs. A. Dickson and i 
Sons, and introduced in 1901. 


FRUIT. 


flower of a pleasing rich scarlet-maroon 
colour. 

Those varieties marked with an asterisk 
may he grown in standard or half-standard 
form, but the others 1 would recommend as 
bushes. Rosa. 


productions. It is very strange, and yet not ^ 
to be wondered at, that many of the Hybrid ! 
Teas, if self fertilised seed be sown from 
them, will reproduce almost identical varie- 
ties, so that it is easy to imagine good things 
being raised of other colours by blending two 
distinct shades together. Rosa, j 


WORK IN PEACH HOUSES. 


ROSE MME. JENNY GILLEMOT. 

This Hybrid Tea is one of the best Mon¬ 
sieur Pernet Ducher has given us. and it 
cannot fail to be much sought after when bet 
ter known. Its vigorous growth places it in 
the first rank as a garden Rose, the line, 
erect shoots and rich green foliage serve well 
to display die charming saffron-yellow blos¬ 
soms. The flowers are large, oftentimes 
Tulip shape, with lovely long buds of a I 
nankeen yellow colour. It is not a very full | 
Rose, but in a cool season the petals develop I 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Rose Edmond Proust. This fine Wichu- 
raiana Rose has made many friends this year, i 
It is a splendid variety for pillar or arch, i 
flowering from the beginning to the end of 
July. The flowers, large for this tribe, are I 
| each fully inches across, and of a lovely 
peach-pink colour, shaded with reddish- | 
orange. This latter tint the Rose un- | 
doubtedly receives from its pollen-parent, | 
Souvenir de Catherine Guillot. The growth ! 


Tn many instances Peach houses will have 
been cleared of fruit, and although such is the 
case, it does not by any means follow that 
there is nothing further to trouble about, as 
so many imagine, as regards the welfare of 
the trees. In a sense their requirements 
must be looked after equally as much now as 
heretofore, the only difference being that so 
much time and labour will not be involved as 
when the trees are making growth. Suppos¬ 
ing a house has just been cleared of fruit, 
the first thing demanding attention is free¬ 
ing the trees of all the old bearing and useless 
w'ood. The wood named in the first case 
having fulfilled its purpose— i.c., in furnish¬ 
ing the crop—is of no further 
use, and it may. therefore, be 
cut back to where the current 
year’s wood starts, which is 
at or near to the base. The 
effect of such a proceeding is 
soon seen by the buds on the 
wood retained, or such as will 
be called upon to furnish next 
year’s crop, swelling and be¬ 
coming quite plump, and as a 
result of its receiving a 
greater share of sunlight and 
air than it hitherto had, the 
wood will gradually assume a 
dark mahogany colour, and 
become thoroughly ripened by 
the time the foliage has per¬ 
formed its proper functions. 
Respecting the current year's 
growth, this, too, should bo 
examined, and no hesitation 
shown in cutting out any 
shoots that are weak and 
badly placed, or in thinning 
them out where too many have 
been tied in. On the com¬ 
pletion of this partial prun¬ 
ing, make the trees look neat 
and tidy by tying down all 
growths needing it to the trel¬ 
lis, after which the destruc¬ 
tion of red-spider, of which 
there appears to be a plentiful 
crop this season, will demand 
attention, as the foliage must 
at all costs be cleared of these 
parasites, otherwise it will fall 
prematurely, to the great de¬ 
triment of the trees. An in¬ 
secticide used at the strength 
recommended for subduing 
this insect, may be used if 
preferred, otherwise soft- 
soapy water, with a fair quan¬ 
tity of flowers of sulphur 
mixed with it, proves a splen¬ 
did antidote for this pest. 
When syringed on to a tree 
infested with spider, the sul¬ 
phur in the wash adheres to 
both under and upper surface 
of the leaves, which is more 
than these insects can stand, 
and they are speedily killed 
off in consequence. If 
thoroughly done, there is 
no occasion to repeat the 
dose, after which a morn¬ 
ing and afternoon syringing of cold water 
will keep the leaves clean until they show 
signs of being mature, when it had better 
cease. The wood and foliage having been 
attended to, the border should next bo tested 
and a thorough soaking of water given, should 
it be dry. If the trees are fully established, 
or are aged, diluted liquid manure may be 
given in lieu of plain water. In any case, the 
borders must not be allowed to want for 
water, as many have a mistaken notion that 
a semi-dry border favours the ripening of 
the wood. Such is not the ease. In reality, 
it induces the trees to east their fruit-buds 
prior to their being started into growth the 
following season, and such a state of affairs 
should therefore be guarded against. Finally, 
open all doors and ventilators to their fullest 
extent, for, growth being complete the trees 
now require all the i-ir and light it is possible 
to afford, J.q enable them to mature. A. AY. 



328 


GARDENING IL L UST RATED. 


August 17 , 1007 


THE PAST STRAWBERRY SEASON. 
Considering the season up to the end of last 
week has 1 >een one of the coldest and wettest 
that has been experienced for many years 
past, the Strawberry crop with me has been 
» very good one. and did not give occasion 
for much complaint, the question of flavour 
excepted. That the flavour was not all one 
could wish for was not surprising, seeing the 
fruit had to ripen under such extraordinary 
weather conditions; and it is wonderful that 
the flavour was not more a«ckl and wanting in 
sweetness than it was. As regards the crop, 
this was all one could wish for, old plants 
bearing equally as well ns tin* younger and 
more vigorous ones, and. although the berries 
wero an unusually long time in arriving at 
maturity, owing to the lack of warmth, they 
nevertheless developed to an unusual degree 
as regards size, and it is but seldom that old 
plants produce such a heavy weight of extra 
large-sized fruit as they have done this year. 
I have heard of much fruit having rotted be¬ 
fore it ripened, but have had nothing to com¬ 
plain of in this respect, and think that the 
somewhat heavy layers of strawy liltor placed 
between the rows prior to the blossoming 
period, served, not only to keep the fruits 
clean, but to raise them so far above the soil 
that, although they were at one time in a 
continually moist condition, the rain passed 
on down, or drained away from them, and did 
them comparatively little or no harm. I took 
the precaution to mulch well, fearing a repe¬ 
tition of last year’s drought, but there has 
never been an occasion to water the plants 
once this season. An outbreak of mildew 
would have occasioned no surprise, but the 
beds have been singularly free from this 
fungoid disease. With regard to runners, 
there hns been a dearth of these, both on 
young and old plants; hut since warmer eon 
ditioiw have prevailed, they are becoming 
more plentiful. Ere these lines will appear 
this soaring's crop will he over, and layering 
in full swing, with a view to obtaining plants 
for the formation of new beds for next, year; 
but planting will be, unavoidably, later than 
usual. ‘A. W. 


CANKER IN MELONS. 

Win v.oi pit ;ise tell me wluit was the raiit-e of my 
Melons f.iiliir. Wlit'ii tin* fi nil si t there came a 
tlamp 011 1 hr si fin, and tiny nil decay n) away. ’] In- 
roots also got hurt. R. M. 

(Did you artificially fertilise your Melons? 
If this was not attended to. it. would account 
for the fruits failing. Evidently, too, the 
plants have been attacked by canker, one of 
the most fertile sources of which, especially 
in early houses insufficiently heated, is a. too 
low night temperature, combined with a stag 
nant atmosphere, rank growth also b ing 
more susceptible to the malady than that, 
which is opposite in character. Injudicious 
ventilating, by which large volumes of cold 
air are suddenly admitted; the application of 
too cold water to the roots, allowing the 
tiume to come into contact with the base of 
the stems; excessive overhead swingings, 
especially on dull, sunless afternoons, and a 
consequent wet foliage at nightfall, arc all 
frequent causes, cither directly or indirectly, 
of this most virulent disease. In order to 
guard against it, Melon seed should always 
be sown in loam pure and simple, and firm 
potting should always be practised. Water 
should never be applied to the .^oots at a 
lower temperature than 80 dogs., and as these 
tropical subjects are not so partial to the i 
syringe as many people seem to imagine, I 
its use should not be indulged in, save only in 
the finest weather, and even then in strict 
moderation. In planting, the mounds or 
ridges of soil should be made firm, and the 
collars of the plants be well elevated above 
the level of the soil. _ If the stems are in 
close proximity to the hot water pipes, so 
much the better, as the heat from these dis¬ 
perses all superfluous moisture, and so pre¬ 
vents it from settling at the base of the stem. 
Surrounding the stems with a pliable piece 
of zinc or tin, and filling in the intervening 
space with small pieces of-charcoal, is also 
a good preventive. No stimulants should be 
given until the crop tells upon the vitality of 
the plant, after which gross growth need not 
be apprehended. The growths which start 
from the stem be twee* the groin*! and the 

Digitized by (jQ' glC 


trellis should not be stopped back too closely, 
especially if the plants are strong, and pinch¬ 
ing with the finger and thumb is preferable 
to the use of the knife, as the pores of tin* 
wounds being thereby closed, air is excluded 
and cankerous attack warded ofT. When the 
disease appears, the best plan is to mix com¬ 
mon stone lime and powdered charcoal in 
equal proportions, and rub it well into the 
affected parts with the finger and thumb. 
This process should be repeated daily, allow 
ing no moisture from the syringe to conn* 
into contact with the wound. This compo-d 
tion will eventually form a hard crust and 
finally destroy all the oaukerous mat ter.J 


NOTES AM) HE I'Ll ES. 

Watering ripening Peaches My garth inr and 
I have a dilTerenee of opinion about watering I’carln s. 
They arc uinfer glass and have had ph-nty of water 
up to this. The fruits arc now rolniiriiii.', but have 
scarcely swelled al all. In inu now yhout the size of 
bantam's ckiis. lie says tiny must get no more 
water ns they are ripi-niic.’: link I see all the 
Hardeners about here still watering th«ir ivarfi- 
trees, mid they have been ripe for a fortnight. 1 
shall be Miudi obliged if you will gi\e |nc \oiir 
opinion about, watering Peaches? Ki>\\ \ki> A. K\w- 
SON. 

[We are quite unable to give an opinion as 
to whether your Benches arc requiring water 
or not, seeing that we are quite in the dark 
ns to the composition of your border, whether 
it has been constructed in a practical manner 
or otherwise, and as to how much water is 
afforded whenever the roots are in need of 
moisture. A properly constructed border, 
with the mots of the trees in a healthy, 
flourishing condition, will take great quanti¬ 
ties of water throughout the glowing season. 
Free supplies of moisture al the roots are, 
therefore, absolutely necessary, as the fruit 
of tiu; Peach is so largely compos'd of juice, 
and uni *ss its demands arc complied with 
and unstinted supplies given, line examples 
may Is* looked for in vain. No hard and fast 
line can be laid down as to how often water 
should be given. Most growers periodically 
test, the border, and water, when if is re¬ 
quired, t<» moisten the soil from the surface 
down to the drainage on each occasion. 
Therefore, the question as to whether water¬ 
ing is necessary when the fruits arc ripening 
depends entirely on the condition of tin 
soil and whether ii is approaching a dry con¬ 
dition. This is best a.*>eertniucd by the per¬ 
son in charge, who should act according In 
the result made known by the listing of the 
border. No good gardener would think of 
flooding his Peach border if the soil were in 
ft satisfactory state, as regards moisture, with 
the idea tint such a proceeding would in 
crease the size of the fruits. What would 
most likely happen in such an event is that 
the fruits would drop prematurely. The fact 
that vour Peaches arc no larger than ban 
tain’s eggs leads us to thick that a worn out 
condition of the border or o\ -r cropping is 
more likely to be answerable fur their being 
undersized than want of water. |>i<.\i«brI? 
of course, that the border has been supplied 
with as much moisture and as oft 11 as it was 
required from the start up to the present 
time. As a. rule, a Peach border, if watered 
thoroughly just as the fruits are mi the point 
of ripening, needs no more mili 1 the crop is 
cleared. Having set forth at length the 
general principles governing the mutter in 
question, we must, allow you to form your 
own conclusions.] 

Big-bud in Black Currants. My bushes 
were badly attacked for one or two seasons, 
and, the crop failing, I was obliged to root 
them out and replant, selecting Baldwin and 
Boskoop Giant. There is, or was. a touch of 
the disease in them, but careful winter pit k 
ing has settled it. ami I have a very fine crop. 
Both above named varieties are first rate, 
Boskoop Giant well deserving its name, th ■ 
individual berries being as large as small 
Cherries. It is a close, compact grower with 
me, but, possibly, on heavier soil one would 
get fine bushes. Black Currants me one of 
the most u.-cful fruits we have, and it is for 
lunate that, varieties have been found that 
are practically exempt from the mite. Black 
Currant vinegar is about one of the best 
things one can have in a house as a remedy 
for coughs that occasionally trouble 
children. E. Burrell. 


GARDEN WORK. 

Conservatory. There is yet time to strike 
cuttings of Hydrangeas. Select cuttings with 
strong, plump terminal buds to obtain good 
trusses of bloom next season. A strong cut 
ting, when rooted in a 5-iucli pot, will carry 
one good truss of bloom. Weak shoots will 
not flower at all. We generally grow several 
hundred every season, and out of that lot 
there will be a few which do not flower, even 
when the cuttings are carefully selected. The 
tops of lhn.se which do not flower make good 
cuttings, and the plants, when they break, 
may be shifted into 0 inch pots, and. if well 
grown, will produce several heads of bloom. 
We have bad cut back plants which produced 
a dozen good trusses of flowers, and the fol¬ 
lowing season will make grand specimens in 
tubs for standing about Ihe margin of the 
law n or on the ten ace. Occasionally we get- 
a plant with a blue tint in the blossoms, but 
without special treatment with that object in 
view the blue flowers are not common. A 
good deal of peat in the potting soil, or iron 
in sonic form, will change the colour of the 
flowers when this is required, (iimd speci¬ 
mens of Yiilloias will be useful through the 
autumn. If they want repotting, which is not 
often, shift them on into larger pots, using 
fibrous loam and peat, with a little old cow- 
iiiaimre rubbed through a \ inch sieve, and in 
potting keep the bulbs well up. This work 
will be done in the spring, and about the first- 
week in August turn the plants into a cold- 
frame with the lights off after the first week, 
and when the flower spikes are visible, give 
weak liquid manure and move to Hit* green¬ 
house or conservatory before the flowers open. 
A dozen bulbs in a 111 inch pot will make a 
good specimen, and for conservatory work it 
i-. bi tter to have a few specimens of this char¬ 
acter than bulbs in single pots, which do not 
(lower so well. l*’or a. large house large 
plants are wanted, and this refers to all 
things besides those mentioned. Nee that all 
things in the borders are watered sulffi i«* 1111 y. 

Stove. \Yc are getting more set I led and 
brighter weather, and the ventilation should 
be very free. A little shade will In- necessary 
during the holiest pari of Ihe day. and, iff 
course, during bright weather more atmos¬ 
pheric luoisture should be supplied l»v damp¬ 
ing floors several times during the day. Take 
advantage of spells of hot, bright weather to 
discontinue tires, and when the thermometer 
in the house docs not fall below CO d- gs. at 
night fires are not wanted would, in fact, do 
harm. M ater with care all newly potted 
plants, as o\cr-w atci ing at such times w ill 
sour the soil and render the plants sickly. 
More plants are ruined b\ over-watering im- 
inecliatclv after repotting- before the roots 
have taken full possession of the soil than 
from all otln-i- causes combined. Tapping the 
sides of the pots is simple enough, and is h 
safe test us to the condition of the soil inside. 

Ferns under glass. moisture freelv 

in the atmosphere by damping floors, and if 
the sun is bright lfi<- house must be shaded. 
To save troubl • and expense, Kern lioiis ’s are 
oll' ii shaded with a mixture of whiting and 
size, or flour mixed with whiting will do, or a 
mixture of lime and skimmed milk answers 
the same purpose. Any repotting required, 
such as seedlings in boxes or plants in small 
pots, or half specimens, may require a further 
shift, but do not overpot anything at this 
season. bur alP the hardier varieties of 
Kerns, such as Pt crises. Maiden hairs, ami 
Aspluniums, more loam is used now than was 
formerly the ease, and the plants do very 
well when al 1-oa-d. half ihe compost- is good 
turfy loam, the remainder being h aT mould. 
Sand or peal may be substituted for leaf 
mould, if tie* hitler is difficult to obtain ; and 
1 have found very old. flaky cow manure vci'y 
useful to mix with tin* loam for the stronger- 
growing species. Some of tho delicate species 
niuv have a little more peat and less loam, 
and enough sand to keep tin* soil open and 
sweet. There is generally at this season 
plenty of good spores on large plants which 
have been grown cool, and the spores may 
be collected and sown at once in pots filled 
with rather hea\v loom inad<* firm. The pots 
containing sport^ imiVt slknd in pans holding 

OTlfVEffSltY 0F t lLlHW3 'W‘° ,op ' 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



August 17 , 1907 


GARDENING ILL USTRA TED. 


329 


Late vinery. - Late Grapes, such as Gros 
Column and Lady Downed, will require a 
little warmth in the pipes in dull, damp 
weather, to finish them. They ought to have 
made some progress in colouring now, and 
should be well coloured by the end of Sep¬ 
tember. to keep well till the new year, or 
later. The foliage should be in good condi¬ 
tion ; in fact, everything depends upon the 
foliage. Sublaterais should be kept down. 
There may be cases where the Vines are 
weakly from overcropping, when a little 
more liberty may be allowed to the sub 
laterals at this season, but late growth in 
this way is not wanted if the main leaves are 
in good condition and capable of doing the 
work. Late, Soft growth may give tin im¬ 
petus to late rooting, but this interferes with 
the regular, steady work of the main leaves, 
and may be hurtful. 

Plants in the house. This is a good time 
to purchase Palms, Rubbers, or any other 
fine foliaged plants for the rooms, as they 
will get used to the changed condition before 
winter comes. Over-watering is the great 
evil in the case of plants in the house. A 
plant will not often die. even if neglected, 
unless it is a Heath or Azalea. It is, of 
course, possible to starve a plant to death 
from want of liquid food, but that seldom 
happens, as drooping foliage, when dry, 
speaks plainly. The worst kind of watering 
is to give just a little on the surface, and 
leave all the best roots at the bottom dry. 

Outdoor garden. Hardy annuals to flower 
in the spring should be sown early in August. 
Sow thinly in rather firm soil, .so that the 
growths may bo sturdy. They may Is? trans¬ 
planted during the autumn to the place where 
they are intended t<> flower. Some, such as 
the Godetias, Clarkias. and Candytufts, are 
very hardy, arul may be transplanted to form 
masses. Saponaria ealabrica. Linmantlies 
Douglas!, and Kilene compaeta are dwarf 
and dense, and are very hardy. Antirrhinums 
are a good deal used for massing, and where 
conic care has been taken in selecting the 
seed parents they come true from, seeds in 
whiles, yellows, pinks, and scarlets. Many 
people sow the seeds in heat in spring, and 
prick off into boxes, but a better plan is to 
sow thinly in August in rather poor ground 
and transplant in spring. If the plants grow 
strongly, and are gross in habit, the frost 
may injure them, tint if sown on rather poor 
ground, thinly, they mav remain all the 
winter in the seed-bed. The double-flowered 
white Arabis has become very popular. 
Slips taken «>ff old plants now and dibbled 
in anywhere and kept moist will soon root. 
Edging-5 may be planted in this way, • »r 
masses in the borders. When a plant of this 
easily grown and decorative character is 
introduced into a district, everybody soon 
wants it. Take cuttings of any plants now, 
and insert- in pots or boxes of sandy soil, 
Pelargoniums outside, other things in a 
frame, shaded from hot sun. Give liquid 
manure to Roses. Hollyhocks, Dahlias, mid 
Phloxes. 

Fruit garden. It appears from the infor 
mation which reaches us the Gooselierry mil 
dew and the Black Currant-mite are spread 
ing. Some people treat these very lightly, 
and regard them as of no consequence, in¬ 
stead of trying to clear them out. There is 
no doubt that more fresh lime might be used 
among fruit-trees and bushes with advantage. 
When the leaves are off the trees in winter 
is the time to apply it; February for choice, 
as that catches the insects just being roused 
into active life. In planting Strawberries, 
water them in, ami when the surface has 
dried make the soil firm about them by tread¬ 
ing, and place a little short manure around 
them as a mulch. Expose, all Peaches to the 
sunshine by thrusting the leaves which over¬ 
shadow tlie fruits on one side, removing a 
leaf or two when necessary to obtain full ex¬ 
posure. It is not often necessary to remove 
foliage, unless the shoots are too much 
crowded. Waterloo is a good early Peach; 
not large, but bright in colour, and good in 
flavour. There is less bud-dropping outside 
than under glass, and this seems to prove 
that bud-dropping, in the case of these early 
American Peaches, is dtTC^to want oflmois 
ture anejy deficient vAtilatfo^ iia|jJ*liii?hlv 


after the fruits are gathered. I can strongly 
recommend the Black Currant Boskoop 
Giant. It is very vigorous, and bears very 
fine fruits, and is less subject'to injury from 
the mite. l’laut Black Currants in cool, 
moist laud, and mulch with manure. 

Vegetable garden. -This is likely to be a 
poor season for Tomatoes outside, unless they 
are planted against a warm south wall. As 
60011 as four trusses of blossom are visible, 
remove the leaders, and keep all side shoots 
rubbed off. Water freely, if the weather 
becomes drv. Bow Onions for standing the 
winter. The selection may include the Tri¬ 
poli section, but should not be confined to 
them, as other kinds may be sown now for 
transplanting ia» spring. Sow hardy kinds of 
Turnips for standing the winter. Veitch’s 
Red Globe and Chirk Castle Blaekstone are 
hardy and keep well. Other kinds may be 
sown, but these should be included. • Sow 
Spinach freely now for standing the winter. 
Sow on firm land, or land that has been made 
firm by treading. Give the plants room 
enough between the rows to produce large 
leaves, and thin to 0 inches. It is not usual 
to transplant Spinach, but it may be trans¬ 
planted if thought desirable to make use of 
the thinnings in this way. Celery will not 
grow so fast after being earthed up, and it 
cannot be watered so easily, but the blanch¬ 
ing may be partly done by using paper, mid 
finished off later with earth. It is most im¬ 
portant to have a, good supply of salad plants 
for autumn and winter, and among other 
things Chervil and Tarragon will be wanted. 
Radishes should lx* sown in «i cool, shady 
spot, now ; French Breakfast and Turnip 
varieties only. E. Hobday. 


THE COMING WEEK'S WORK. 

Extrwta from a Harden Diary. 

August tilth .—Cuttings of Geraniums and 
other Pelargoniums are being put into pots 
and boxes of loam and leaf mould, with a 
surfacing of sand.. Two-thirds of the com¬ 
post consists of loam. Outdoor Figs are 
growing in a rather shallow border, and are 
bearing freely. All the young shoots are 
nailed in close to the wall, to expose the 
fruits. The Brown Turkey is the kind chiefly 
grown. Liquid manure is given to swell up 
the fruits 

August 2<nh.- Early Potatoes are being 
lifted, ns the ground is wanted for other 
crops, such as Turnips, Spinach, Onions, and 
Strawberries. All our Strawberries are 
selected runners from young plants. The best 
are taken from these and potted for forcing, 
all those left being planted out. Bowed 
hardy annuals for spring blooming in a rather 
poor soil. These will be used to fill beds and 
form masses in borders. 

August 21st .—All the Onions have been 
pulled up and laid out thinly to harvest. 
When quite dry. those long enough will be 
tied in bunches ami hung up in cool shed oh 
north aspect, mid those with short stems 
placed on shelves. Herbs have been cut for 
drying, and vegetables selected of suitable 
size for pickling. Lettuces, when dry, are 
tied up to blanch. 

August 22nd .—The flower-beds are now at 
their host, and we have to be careful in tak¬ 
ing cuttings not to disfigure the plants. We 
usually plant any surplus wo may have in the 
reserve garden for the purpose of giving cut¬ 
tings, and a good many of the old plants are 
lifted and kept to produce cuttings in spring. 
If helped by heat, spring struck stuff is as 
good as those struck in autumn. 

August 23rd .—Shifted on spring struck 
Tree-Carnations for winter flowering. The 
earliest struck plants are now in flower, and 
will flower on through the autumn ; and Car¬ 
nations are always in season, being so useful 
for cutting. They are not starved in small 
pots, and will have weak liquid-manure, and a 
little artificial plant food is mixed with the 
soil when potting, as they will bear feeding 
well. 

August 2!fth .—Celery is being earthed up, 
and late’ plants raised outside have been 
planted for late use. This comes in well for 
stewing and soups, and does not bolt till 


quite late. Early Apples and Pears are 
gathered before they begin to fall, and placed 
in a cool fruit-room for a short time. Des¬ 
sert Plums are treated in a similar way. 
Bottles half filh d with sugar and beer have 
been bung on fruit walls to attract the wasps. 


ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 
The usual fortnightly meeting of this society 
was held in the Vincent Hall on August 6th, 
the day following Bank-holiday. Upon inoro 
than one occasion the impracticability of hold¬ 
ing an exhibition on the day following a Bank- 
holiday has been discussed in the pages of the 
horticultural press without apparent effect 
upon the council, but we think the half-filled 
hall on the occasion in question, and the 
subsequent meagre attendance, should afford 
ample proof that such a day is most unsuit¬ 
able. Some few of the exhibits, however, wero 
exceedingly meritorious, and of the.se wo may 
mention the splendid collection of Goose¬ 
berries from Messrs. Jas. Veitch and Sons, 
Ltd., Chelsea. Of this excellent dessert fruit 
some 100 largo dishes wero staged, and wo 
select Golden Gem, Langley Beauty, Railway, 
Progress, Whin ham’s Industry, and White¬ 
smith as a good half-dozen. Pot plants of the 
trees in well-fruited examples added to the 
educational value of the exhibit. Some good 
Red and Black Currants and Loganberiiea 
were also staged. 

The Starry blue--flowered Water Lilies 
(Nyinphiea stellata) and others, from Mr. 
Leopold de Rothschild, Gunnersbury House, 
Acton (gardener, Mr. Hudson) were very tine, 
and, surrounded by waterside subjects, made 
a capital picture. Mr. L. R. Russell, Rich¬ 
mond, staged a fine lot of cut trees and shrubs ; 
and from Germany M. Georg Arends brought 
a very interesting lot of hybrid Astilbes— 
crosses chiefly between A. Davidi and A. japo¬ 
ll ica and ot hers. Mr. G. Rout he, Keston, 
Kent, had a rather interesting lot of hardy 
plants in pots and in the cut state; w hile 
Mr. Amos Perry, Enfield, Messrs. G. and A. 
Clark, Dover, and Messrs. A. Charlton and 
Sons, Tunbridge Wells, each had a rich display 
of cut herbaceous things—Lilies, Carnations, 
and the like. Some excellent Gloxinias were 
show n by Mr. II. W. Perry, Upper Norwood, 
the plants being most freely flowered. Some 
border Carnations of the finest description were 
shown by Mr. James Douglas, Bookham, 
Surrey, one of these. King Edward VII., 
receiving an award of merit. A large assort¬ 
ment of hybrid Dianthuses came from Messrs. 
Dobbie and Co., Rothesay, some of which 
were very handsome. 

By no means the least valuable of the 
exhibits staged on this occasion was the fine 
lot of Gladioli from Messrs. Kelway and Sons, 
Langport. The exhibit was representative of 
a new strain, to bo called the “July flower¬ 
ing,'’ which has been originated by crossing 
the Gandavcnsis hybrids with the early-flower¬ 
ing kinds. Coming into flower at this early 
period, these new variet ies will have a value 
of their own. Messrs. Sutton and Sons, 
Reading, had a small exhibit of Cabbages and 
Savoys, both excellent in their way. Early 
Apples, as Rod Astrnchnn, Early Red 
Margaret and Gladstone, with Plums and 
Cherries, came from Messrs. S. Spooner and 
Sons, Hounslow' ; and a second group from 
the Messrs. Veitch and Sons, Ltd., was made 
up of Figs in variety in pots, Peaches, as Sea 
Eagle, Dymond, Thos. Rivers, Late Devonian, 
and well-fruited examples in pots of Black 
Alicante Grapes. Near by, from the same 
source, Romneyu Coulteri was seen in good 
condition. 

Some very choice Orchids from Messrs. 
Charlesworth and Co., Bradford, included 
Zvgopctalum, Cattleya, Miltonia, Odonto- 
glossum, etc. Orchids on a small scale were 
also contributed by .Sir Trevor Lawrence aud 
Major Holford, Westonbirt, Glos. Quite one 
of the most delightful and pleasing exhibits of 
the day came from Mr. Howard H. Crane, 
Highgate, who had a charming collection of 
the miniature Tufted Pansies, known ns 
Violettas, in many shades of colour. The 
Messrs. Barr and Sons showed herbaceous 
Phloxes, and a Murrowblt Pea named Mars. 
A list p£ medals will bo found in our adrer- 
tifllllgwmifampl ■ ■ ILLIIMUlJ Ml 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



330 


GARDENING ILL VSTRATID. 


August 17, 1907 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

Questions.— Queries and answers are. inserted in 
Gardening free of charge if correspondents follow these 
rules: All communications should bo clearly and concisely 
written on one sule of the paper only, mid addressed to 
the Editor of Uarpknmno, 17, Furnical-street, Ilolbom, 
London , E.C. Letters on business should be sent to the 
PuiiLisiiKR. The name and address of the sender are 
required in addition to any desiynation he may desire to 
be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, 
each shoultl b.i on a separate piece of paper, ami not more 
than three queries should be sent at a time. Correspon¬ 
dents should bear in mind that, as Gardening has to be 
sent to press some time in advance of date, queries cannot 
always be replied to in the issue immediately following 
the receipt of their communication. We do nut reply to 
queries by post. 

Naming flowers, shrubs, etc.—Fair examples 
of each subject—i.e., leaves and shoots as well as jioicers 
and fruit—if to be. had, must be sent. When more 
than one plant is sent, each should be numbered. If 
these rules are not complied with subjects cannot be 
named correctly. 

Naming fruit. —The differences between varieties 
of fruits are in many cases so trifling that it is necessary 
that three examples showing the range of form of each 
kind should be sent. Not more than four varieties at a 
time should be sent. 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

Roses, mildew on (L\ A. IK.). -The cold draught 
h, no doubt, the cause of the mildew. Dissolve an 
ounce of sulphide of potassium in 2 pints of hot 
water, then add enough water to make 2j gallons. 
Apply this with a very line syringe, and take care 
that every part of the plant is wetted. 

Border plants (Victory). It is unfortunate that 
you give us no idea of the width or length of the 
border -items of the greatest importance in such 
matters us these. We might give you a list of 
quite unsuitable things. If you will give us the 
dimensions of the bed or border, and inform us as 
to the soil, we will give you a list, of plants likt.lv to 
meet your requirements. You might also say what 
Narcissi you already possess, so that other sorts can 
be added. 

Carnation diseased (Carnation ).—There is no 
evidence of blight on the half-dead branch you send, 
and we believe the trouble to have been caused by 
fungus, or it may be this and a minute organism 
that enters the stem, and. forming tunnels therein, 
is responsible for the drath of that portion of the 
plant. Your only remedy is to cut away and burn 
the alTectod part to prevent its further spread. By 
syringing the plant with soot-water the branches are 
rendered distasteful to insect life, and in this way 
the pest may be held in check. 

Tacsonia failing (Tacsonia).— It. is very difficult 
to assign any reason for the buds of the Tacsonia fail¬ 
ing to develop. It would, wo think, be well to examine 
the soil in which the plant is growing to make sure 
that it is not. dry at the roots. The soil on the sur¬ 
face may look all right, but at the bottom it may be 
quite dry. Again, it may be growing in too dark 
or too cold a position, and in unsuitable soil, with 
bad drainage. If you can send us the name of the 
variety, and also examine the border ami let us 
know the result, we may be able to help yuu out of 
the difficulty. 

Wireworm in Carnations (A\ V Z.).—No; your 
gardener cannot be blamed in any way. Many 
remedies have been given to destroy this pest, but it 
is too late now to do much good. The only way is 
to well dress the ground with gas-lime, fork it in, 
and let the ground lie fallow for a year, frequently 
stirring it in the meantime. In the meantime you 
may put slices of Carrots on the ends of pointed 
sticks, burying the Carrots 2 inches or 3 inches into 
the soil. Examine these daily, when the wireworm 
will be found on the Carrot slices, and may be de¬ 
stroyed. When sending further queries, please read 
our rules as to giving name and address. 

Carnations failing (•/. T. B.).-We were unable 
to find the insect to which you refer; but, judging 
from the condition of the stem, we conclude that 
wireworm is the cause of the mischief. If your soil 
is infested with these pests, you had better trap them 
with Carrot or Potato, cut in slices and placed in the 
soil, or, in conjunction with these tilings you might 
employ vaporite in the soil to rid the latter of the 
pest. It is obtainable from seedsmen and sundries- 
men, and instructions for its use accompany the 
article. You ought to dress the ground with gas- 
lime in the autumn, well breaking it up and forking 
it in, but you will then not he able to crop such 
ground for at least three months. 

Rose blooms rotting upon the trees (E.P.S.). 
—This season so many of the light-coloured double 
blossoms have been spoilt by decaying ere they un¬ 
fold. The wet weather is mainly responsible for this; 
but some varieties have such thin petals and yet 
are so very double that, they become, as it were, 
glued together by the rain. If we were just to re¬ 
lease the outer petals when the buds seem to be a 
long time in opening we should often avert the 
damping off. You would find the Rose-bloom pro¬ 
tectors of much service in enabling you to combat 
the wet weather. These cone-like protectors arc 
placed over a bud. and arc kept thus located until 
the flower has developed. We have had some splen¬ 
did blooms of Mildred Grant thus protected, which 
would have been quite sjKjilt if left uncovered. 

Fuchsia3(J. ft.).—For bloom.ng in a cool greenhouse 
in autumn, one may do very much with Fuchsias— 
they are easily grown, and contribute not a little to 
the beauty of a house. Whilst it is advisable to 
look well after young plants for autumn blooming, it 
does not follow that aM-«^dants should Ac despised. 
On the contrary. oh| specimens omftlrnew give a 
good amount of thci ^dyg ^cyi cci.Ahr |^hey have 


been repotted and had some time in the open air. 
Just at present one may assist such plants by keep¬ 
ing the flower-buds picked off as they appear, and 
giving once or twice a week liquid-manure. The 
plants will also benefit greatly by a top-dressing of 
old manure and by being syringed occasionally. 

Oypsophila paniculata (Shavio ).—This is some¬ 
what difficult to move when old. and the best way 
is to raise a stock from seed, which may be sown in 
the open borders, and, when tit, moved to the 
permanent quarters. Such plants will bloom the fol¬ 
lowing summer. You can also anticipate a season 
by sowing in heat in April, removing the seedlings 
to the border in June, where some of the strongest 
may flower in early autumn. You can now purchase 
seedlings very cheaply, and these, if planted at once, 
will bloom well next year. A good deep well-manured 
soil best suits this plant. Slugs are very fond of the 
young shoots, so you must be careful to protect 
with coal-ashes during the winter and early spring. 

Red Gloire dc Dijon failing to bloom (Lover 
of Roses).— This Rose, also known as Reine Marie 
llenriette. is sadly addicted to mildew, and for this 
reason not one to recommend for greenhouse culture. 
Besides this, it is very shy flowering until there is 
plenty of old wood with lateral growths to yield 
them. We should advise you to plant Francois 
Crousse. It is a much better crimson-scarlet Rose 
for a greenhouse roof, yielding very pretty-formed 
buds in profusion when established. There is really 
no crimson climber to compare with the old Gloire 
dc Dijon in its matchless profusion of blossom. Fre¬ 
quently the so-called Climbing Rosea are too 
vigorous for greenhouse culture, and they could he 
much better replaced with such Roses as Liberty or 
Richmond, two crimson sorts that arc rarely out of 
bloom the whole summer. 

A gardening enterprise (Clorerdenc).- It is 
very difficult to advise in a case like this. Having 
yourself, probably, experience of a mercantile 
character, you will be able t«» form an estimate of 
the annual return likely to be obtained in ordinary 
circumstances from an investment in business of 
i‘250. For many years, at all events, it would mean 
hard work for small returns. Is your son prepared 
for this if he enters on gardening? Bear in mind 
that the work will be really hard, and of a kind to 
which he is little accustomed—early and long hours, 
manual labour, much of it, no doubt, congenial, but 
a lot of it. quite us certainly, unpleasant and irk 
some: for until, if ever, his business develops into 
something considerable he will have to buckle to in 
earnest, or he will find the balance on the wrong 
side of the ledger. When he has learnt something of 
the routine of the work-not as carried on by the 
gentleman who gardens for pleasure, but as organ¬ 
ised by the man who has before him the stern ne¬ 
cessity of making his labour profitable—he may find 
a suitable investment for his small capital. If lie 
wants to find au easy-going, gentlemanly sort of 
" overseering ” position, we strongly advise him to 
keep out of it. if he is seriously inclined to confront 
difficulties, let him try to get into a good nursery. 
His want of experience is the drawback, but a well- 
educated man. willing to turn his hand to anything, 
may find a firm ready to meet him half way, and put 
him in the way of getting the experience in which 
he is lacking. Such experience is absolutely neces¬ 
sary before he sinks his capital in a venture on his 
own account. 

TREES AND SHRUBS. 

Insect attacking trees (A. White ).—The pieces 
of the trunk of your tree have been bored in various 
directions by the caterpillar of some moth—such as 
the Gout moth or Wood Leopard moth—or by the 
grubs of one of the wood-boring beetles; hut I can¬ 
not say which, as there was no insect of any kind in 
pieces you sent. —G. S. S. 

Larch-trees (Renfrewshire). Your Larches are 
infested with the Larch-aphis (Chernies laricis). The 
only cure that I know of is to syringe the trees with 
some insecticide containing soft soap — such as 
paraffin emulsion—now, and when the leaves have 
fallen and before the buds show any sign of open¬ 
ing in the spring, with a caustic alkali wash. Per¬ 
haps the best time to use this syringe is as late in 
the spring ae possible, but it must not be used if 
the buds have begun in any degree to open.— 
G. S. S. 

Treatment of Clerodendron (Amateur). —Now 
that your Clerodendron has done flowering, any 
necessary pruning should be at once carried out. 
Any weak or exhausted shoots may be cut aw ay, and, 
if necessary, the vigorous ones shortened. The ob¬ 
ject is to cause the plants to break out freely and 
grow away at once, as, though rather late, there will 
be yet time to allow for the development of shoots 
that will flower well next year. From the fact that 
the growing season is now comparatively short, the 
pruning must be less severe than if it were done 
earlier in the year. An occasional syringing will be 
helpful. By October the plant Bhould have made 
good growth, when the supply of water at the roots 
must be lessened. Of course, it must not be parched 
up, but the soil should be kept moderately dry during 
the winter months, and thus give the plant a period 
of partial rest. In early spring it will start freely 
into growth, when a liberal use of the syringe and 
more water at the roots will be of great assist- 

FRUIT. 

Pruning Raspberry-canes (F. Waller ).—While 
it is invariably advised by gardening writers that the 
old canes of Raspberries should be cut out so soon 
as they have done fruiting, we know that it is 
seldom practised—the work, as a rule, being left 
until the autumn. If. however, time ean be found, 
it. is well to do it early, provided in doing it no 
injury be done to the young or new canes whilst 
still brittle or tender. An awkward man might do 
those much harm. However, if It be carefully done, 
and the old canes removed, more light, and air Is 
admitted to the ntw canes or suckers, and they not 


only become stronger, but arc riper and harder in 
consequence. It has been held that if the old canes 
be not too early cut away, they, in dying, help to 
feed the young runes. As to that we have consider¬ 
able doubt. Still, if you care to cut away some old 
canes now and leave some on other stools, you can 
test the effects of the experiment for yourself. 

Overgrown Black Currant bushes (E . B. 
Moysey).—by the time you read this, no doubt, you 
will have gathered your Black Currants. At once 
then cut hard down almost close to the ground all 
the tall, old branches, leaving only the lower and 
younger ones. These will have ell the better chance 
to mature. Next year, probably, some strong new 
shoots will break up from the bases of the old wood 
left near the ground, and if the strongest of these 
be saved, weak ones only being cut out, you may. 
in two years, have some entirely renovated bushes 
carrying fine fruits. But, as these old bushes have 
heeii where they arc so long, the ground must have 
become poor and exhausted. To remedy that, put 
about each bush a good coat of well-decayed manure 
now, and add a fresh one next March. In that 
way good growth may follow. All the same, you 
would do well to purchase in and plant a few 
young bushes, especially the fine Boskoop Giant, our 
finest Black Currant. 

VEGETABLES. 

Diseased Salsafy (Af. L. E. TX —The leaves of 
your Salsafy are attacked by a fungus—Cystopu* 
tragopogonis. 1 should at once cut off and burn the 
infested leaves, and syringe with Bordeaux mixture. 
Next season, if the fungus appears again, cut oft 
the affected leaves, and spray with Bordeaux mix¬ 
ture. Destroy any plants of the Wild Goat's Beard 
(Tragapogon pratense), if there be any near your 
garden, as it is very liable to be attacked by this 
fungus.—G. S. S. 

MISCELLANEOUS. 

Rape dust as a fertiliser <B. A. Bel!).-Yes, 
Rape-dust is a useful fertiliser, containing an ap¬ 
preciable proportion of nitrogen. Whether it is the 
best manure to use is another question, the answer 
to which depends on the condition of the soil and 
the character of the crops which are to be raised. 
In all probability you will find good stable-manure 
give the best results on your soil, and it may be 
supplemented with dressings of nitrate of soda when 
the crop is in active growth. 


SHORT REPLIES. 


C. IK. L - You say nothing as to the crop the tree 
is carrying or the size of the pot, but we fear that 
you have been overcropping. The fruits have stoned 
all right, hence our surmise that you have been ask¬ 
ing the tree t<o do too much.- Tufted .—Send some 

blooms to the Floral Committee of the Royal Horti¬ 
cultural Society, Horticultural Hall, Vincent-square, 

Westminster.- F. li. Rohn .—Your Nectarine has 

what is known as a split stone. See the article. 
“Stone-splitting in Peaches.” in our issue ef 

August 10th, p. 304.-L. M .—Your Peach-leaves 

have been attacked by the shot hole fungus, see reply 
to J. Baker re " Peach-leaves injured,” in our issue 

of July 13th, p. 200.- F. A. C.- Sow very thinly in 

the open air, and, if need be, thin freely. 


NAMES OF PLANTS AND FRUITS. 


Names of plants.— Edith Bosquet .—The Tulip- 

tree (Liriodendron tulipiferuin).- Marguerite V. G. 

Griffith. — We cannot undertake to name florist 

flowers.- II. K. A .—Buddleia variahilis. Ought to 

be quite hardy with you.- M. F. 8 .—Silene Armeria. 

- Bredon, Sutton .—Bladder Senna (Colutea).— 

G. I. B .—Mountain 8cotcli or Wyeh Elm (Ulmus 

montuna).- Penpriste .—Bed um spurium.- M. A. 

Aston .—Tradesrantia virginica.- Mrs. Balfour.—I, 

The Masterwort (Astrnntin major); 2, Next week.- 

Miss Henderson. — l, Thalictrum flavum: 2, T. 
glaucum; 8, Please send in flower; 4, Anthericura 

Liliago.- lloldsirorth.—A weeping form of the 

Douglas Fir (Abies Douglasi).- A. II. M.— Lysi- 

roachia vulgaris var. punctata.- Robert Greening. 

—The common yellow Cornflower (Chrysanthemum 

segetum); an annual.- J. Balfour .—Stachys grandi- 

flora. 


Catalogues received.— W. C. Bull, Ellington- 
road, Ramsgate. — Bulbs and Roots for Autumn 

Planting. -Little and Ballantyne, Carlisle.—Bulbs, 

etc., 1907. -Jnmes Veitch and Sons, Ltd., Chelsea.— 

Catalogue of Bulb8, 1907. 

Books received —” Practical Fruit Culture,” by 

John Whitehead. Greening and Co., Ltd., London.- 

“ Glass Culture,” by Jas. Clieal. Greening and Co.. 

Limited, London.-“ Gardening in Town and 

Suburb,” by E. H. Thomas. Longman, Green, and 
Co., London. 


District Council and pond (IP. J. C.).—With¬ 
out fuller information I cannot advise you sati?- 
factorily upon this matter. It may be that the 
Council have a prescriptive right to run their water 
into your pond. The fact of it being freehold 
property makes no difference. I think the best thing 
you can do is to ask them to explain on what ground 
they claim this right: then we can determine 
whether it is a legal claim or not. Write me again, 
therefore, with fuller information.— Barrister. 


Readers on holiday.—During the holiday season 
readers who find any difficulty in obtaining Gardening 
Illustrated from the local newsagent or bookstall, may 
have a copy posted regularly for a few weeks or longer hy 
sending a remittance at the rate of IJd a copy to the 
Publisher, Gardening Illustrated, 17, Fumivgl-street, 
Holborn, London, E.C. 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


No. 1,485— Vol. XXIX. 


Founded by W. Robinson, Author of "The English Flatter Garden 


AUGUST 24, 1907. 


Achillea Tho Pearl 
Ash, the flowering (Frax- 
lnu* Ornug) 

Beans, Dwarf Kidney .. 
Beech, Copper, grub»ou 
Begonia Gloire do Lor¬ 
raine . 

Begonias, treatment of 
Berberia nepalensis 
Birch in the pleasure 
ground, the 

Cabbage, insects on .. 
Carnation Cecilia 
Carnations, Malniaison 
Chrysaiit hcmnnia 
Chryeanthe niu ms — 
buds developing at 
the present time 
Climber for producing 
cut flowers 


312 

342 

341 

331 

314 

311 

341 

341 

3.11 

331 

333 


338 

334 


Conservatory .. .. 342 

Cordylines, propagating 344 
Cucumbers, winter .. 313 
Eucalyptus fleifolia .. 341 
Flower noto3, hardy .. 312 

Fruit .333 

Fruit garden .. .. 343 

Fruit-tree for north 

bonier.310 

Fruit-trees, blighted .. 310 
Fruits and vegetables, 
ripe and unripo .. 342 
Garden diary, extracts 

from a.313 

Garden, new .. .. 341 

Garden work .. .. 342 

Glass discs for Mowers.. 344 
Glasshouse difficulty, a 33L 
Gooseberry • caterpillar, 
the .340 


Gooseberries 

INI 

330 

Grapes, Froutigiiau 

33J 

Gypsophilas, propa; 
ting 

334 

Houbo, in the 

Indoor plants 

313 

331 

Irises, German .. 

331 

Marlagon (Liliuui eha 
codonicum), tho S -a 


let. 

331 

Melons, a trial of 

334 

Mespilus grandiflora 

311 

.Mi mu lus (Monkey 


Mower) .. 

, 335 

Nectarines, decayed 

340 

Nectarines, raisin 


from seed 

310 

Orchids, books on 

341 

Outdoor garden .. 

, 313 

Outdoor plants .. 

. 332 


3 EX. 

Pansies, Tufted, for bed¬ 
ding, the best twenty- 

five .332 

Peach-house, early .. 343 
Pear-leaf, insects on .. 344 
, Peas in a greenhouse .. 342 
Pentstemons .. .. 335 

Pinks, the garden .. 332 
Plants and Mowers .. 331 

I Poultry.343 

| Rain-water in water- 

barrel .314 

| Raspberrie* in poor 
condition .. 310 

Rhododendron retusuiu 331 
j Room and window 333 

Rose, a tine decorative 336 
I Roso Dorothy Perkins.. 337 
I Rose Mine. Ernestine 
I Verdier.337 


Rose-trees, stems of, 
eaten by insects . 337 
Rose William Alien 
Richardson .. .. 33 > 

Rose Xavier Olibo .. 337 

Roses .333 

Roses failing .. .. 336 

Roses for button holes 336 

Roses for India, packing 
own-root .. .. 337 

Roses on own roots 314 
Rose?, Rambler, after 
flowering .. .. 337 

Roses, Tea, planted out 336 
Saxifrages, some white- 
flowered encrusted .. 333 
Scabiouses .. .. 331 

Shallots.312 

Spinach.312 

Spirtea aruufolia.. .. 331 


Stove .312 

Strawberry-bed, peats 

of tho.33d 

Strawberry Fillbasket.. 333 
Strawberries, mildewed 340 
Strawberries on light 

soil .340 

Syringa-shoots .. .. 341 

Table decoration .. 338 
Thrip3 on Pteria fronds 341 
Tomato Carter's Sunrise 342 
Trees and shrubs .. 341 
Tropjuolum speciosuui.. 335 
Vegetable garden .. 343 

Vegetables .. .. 312 

Vine extension .. .. 343 

Violets diseased.. .. 351 

Water Lilies in tubs .. 311 
Week's work, the 
coming .. .. .. 313 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

INDOOR PLANTS. 

MALMA1SON CARNATIONS. 

Thb majority of the Malmaisoii Carnations 
will have ceased to flower by now, and pre¬ 
parations must lie made to get the plants 
layered so that they may be established in 
small pots e**c the short days arc upon us. 
Where convenience exists to winter specimen 
plants part of the stock may he transferred to 
pots 8 inches in diameter, selecting clean, 
healthy plants for the purpose; in fact, any 
that show the least signs of disease should lie 
consigned to the rubbish heap, as such are 
not fit to be retained either as specimens or 
front which to take layers for another year. 
In repotting loosen tho roots at the bottom 
carefully, so that the crocks may lie taken 
out, and the surface soil slightly reduced, 
neatly tying up the young growths before¬ 
hand. so that they do not get broken in the 
operation of repotting. Thorough drainage 
must be ensured, and only clean pots used. 
These should be carefully crocked with a few 
fresh pieces of turfy loam placed over the 
drainage. A suitable compost consists of the 
best fibrous loam at command. To every 
bushel add a peck of flaky leaf soil, a 5-inch 
potful of soot and bone manure repeetively, a 
flinch potful of broken charcoal or old 
plaster, and enough clean river or coarse 
silver sand to ensure water passing through 
quickly. After potting, keep the plants under 
glass with abundance of air circulating be¬ 
tween, and only afford water when it is really 
necessary. Each growth (of which there 
should not be more than six) should have a 
neat stake, rubbing off any weaker ones'therc 
may be. 

Layering is n simple matter, and to ex¬ 
pedite this, shallow pits or ordinary garden 
frames with a bed of sandy, though fibrous, 
soil is necessary. Knock out each plant from 
the pot, and plunge the ball of roots in a 
slanting direction, so that the shoots come 
down to the soil without any pressure. Pull 
off the weaker shoots, and trim up the foliage 
a bit at the base of those to be layered ; then, 
with a sharp knife, make a longitudinal cut 
1 } inch in length about the centre of the 
growth, lightly bending the point towards 
you, so that the tongue is opened a bit for the 
soil to get in between, holding the layer with 
the left hand, while with the right a crooked 
peg, 5 inches long, is placed on it to keep it 
in position, after which add a little more soil 
over the surface, lightly pressing the whole 
down, this to be continued until the light is 
filled. Scatter a little sand over the lot, and 
water with a fine rose can. Place on the 
light, keep close, and shude for a fortnight, 
hy whi« h time a callus will have b/en formed, 
when air may be admitted and shading dis¬ 
pensed with. In the meanwhile, sprinkle the 
layers daily with water, and when it is seen 
that new growth is being m^de the sasht^ may 
be removed during fiij£ weather. >*ot 


select tho layers too long (» inches from the 
tip to where the cut. is to be made is quite 
enough, or the plants appear so leggy at the 
start, the aim being to get sturdy plants from 
the first. Six to eight weeks must he allowed 
the layer to become nicely rooted. In the 
meantime, prepare a similar soil and the re 
quired number .of 4 inch and 5-inch pots, 
these also to he clean and nicely crocked. As 
soon as all is fit for potting, search for the 
peg that holds the layer in position, sever the 
stem behind it with a sharp knife, and then 
place a five-prong garden fork under the 
layers, when each one should lin with a nice 
bulb of soil attached to the roots, which must 
be handled carefully. Careful potting is 
necessary, so that as little check as possible 
is given to the young plants. Place in a 
frame having an ash bottom. Water in with 
a rose can, keep close for a few days with a 
mat thrown over the light in bright weather. 
Within a week give full ventilation, eventu¬ 
ally housing in October, placing on a shelf 
within 2 feet of the glass roof for the winter, 
watering with care and fumigating once a 
month. James Mayne. 

Uictun Garden*, Devonshire. 


NOTES AND ENDUES. 

Begonia Gloire de Lorraine I should fie much 
obliged if you could tell me through Gardening what 
is wrong with plants uf Begonia Gloire de Lorraine 
from which enclosed leaves were taken? The disease 
is always present, hut is most active after the plants 
have been potted. I grow in stove in peat and loam, 
and they do well, apart from this disease, which 
cripples most of the plants.—L orraine. 

[The leaves of Begonia Gloire de Lorraine 
arc very Imdly attacked by what is termed 
yellow tbrips, a small, almost microscopical, 
insect, whose ravages are greatly on the in¬ 
crease throughout the country. The damage 
is done while the leaves are very young, but 
the mischief is not seen till some time after¬ 
wards. This Begonia thrives better in an 
intermediate-house than in a stove, and 
plants in this last named structure are more 
liable to be attacked than those grown some¬ 
what cooler. Vaporising with the XL-All 
vaporiser will destroy these pests, for which 
a sharp look-out must be kept, otherwise the 
mischief is quickly done. Too dry an atmos¬ 
phere is very favourable for the development 
of tbrips.] 

A glasshouse difficulty (Fraoeh, N.Ii.).— 
We are of opinion that a good deal of your 
trouble is caused by attempting the culture 
of too many subjects in one small house. 
Neither you nor anyone else can maintain a 
display of flowers throughout the year from 
plants grown in this structure alone. Dif¬ 
ferent, winter and spring flowering subjects, 
such as Chinese Primulas, Cinerarias, Cycla¬ 
men, and such things need to be grown in re¬ 
serve houses or frames, and taken into the 
house when in flower. Still, we will en¬ 
deavour to answer your questions as far as 
possible, and trust that you will derive some 
benefit therefrom. To cover the stove-pipe 
rests, which we conclude are made of brick, 


a desirable subject is Ficus minima, a dense- 
growing creeper with dark green leaves, 
about the size of those of the Box. It will 
attach itself to bricks after the manner of 
Ivy, and form a mass of leafage. SwaiiL- 
sonias are very pretty, moderate-growing 
climbers, but not sufficiently vigorous to cover 
the roof. For this purpose Tacsonia Van 
Volxemi, or Passiflora Imperatrice Eugenie, 
would do well. With regard to the Clema¬ 
tis, a hardy kind is not likely to succeed, hut 
the New Zealand evergreen, (Heinat is indi¬ 
visa, which bears a profusion of pure white 
starry flowers in Bpring, should do well. The 
condition of your climbing Geraniums points 
to poor soil /or the roots, and an insufficient 
circulation of air, which remarks apply with 
equal force to the other subjects enumerated. 
The fact that Palms and Ferns do well sup¬ 
ports our theory, as they do not require any¬ 
thing like the same amount of air as 
Geraniums, Fuchsias, etc. A very desirable 
Rose for the purpose is Catherine Mermet. 
The climbing Geranium should do well 
against the wall. OF climbing plants at inter 
vals up the glass side we can recommend the 
Tacsonia, Passiflora, and Clematis aforesaid, 
and also Hibbertia dentata, Rhynchosper- 
muni jasniinoides, and Tecoma jasminoides. 
A few greenhouse flowering plants that should 
do well in your house are : Coronilla glaucn, 
Diplaeus cocciueus, Eupaloriums of sorts. 
Crassula (Kalosanthes) eocciuea, Plumbago 
capensis. Primula obeonica, Primula flori- 
bunda, with, of course, lnilhs of different 
kinds. The red-leaved hanging plant referred 
to is, doubtless, Tradescantia zebriua, and 
other satisfactory subjects for this purpose, 
other than Ferns, are: Asparagus Sprengeri, 
Phalangium lineare variegatum, Ivy-leaved 
Pelargoniums, Ficus radicans variegata, and 
Begonia undulata. 

Rhododendron retusum. —In appearance 
this is very widely removed from the gener¬ 
ally accepted idea of a Rhododendron ; still, 
it is a very pretty flowering shrub. Intro¬ 
duced from Java in 1853, this species re¬ 
quires the temperature of a warm green¬ 
house for its successful culture, and. under 
such condition, it has been flowering during 
the months of June and July. This Rhodo¬ 
dendron forms a much-branched shrub, 
clothed with dark green, broadly ovate 
leaves, the largest being about lj-'inch in 
length. The flowers, borne six to nine in an 
umbel, are partially drooping, tubular in 
shape, and a little more than an inch long. 
They are of a wax like texture, orange-red ii>. 
colour, and about one third of an inch across 
tho expanded mouth. A specimen of this 
Rhododendron, when studded with flowers, 
forms a very pretty object. Like the other 
Javanese Rhododendrons, this needs a com¬ 
post- made up of good fibrous peat and sand, 
effectual drainage, too, being very necessary. 
The root system is not particularly vigorous ; 
therefore, over-potting must be especially 
guarded against.. This, Rhododendron is 
greatly benefited by a free use of the syringe 
during the spring and summer months. It 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



















332 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


August 21, 1997 


has not been made much use of by tlie hybri¬ 
dist, but about thirty years ago tne late Mr. 
Isaac Davies, of Onnskirk, obtained a hybrid 
between this species . and Rhododendron 
Javanicum, which, under the name of R. 
Daviesi, obtained a considerable amount of 
popularity for a time, but it has now be¬ 
come very scarce. The bright - coloured 
flowers of this were borne at different periods 
of the year.—X. 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 

HARDY FLOWER NOTES. 
Primula Sieboldi.—T feel convinced that 
the greater portion of those who have grown 
this Japan Primrose have failed to realise its 
decorative worth. In its best form it yields 
in effectiveness to no hardy late blooming 
spring flower, but, badly grown, it. is hardly 
worth a place in the outdoor garden. As 
Mr. Jenkins has pointed out in a recent issue 
of this paper, this Prinfula loves moisture, 
and cannot give a true idea of its worth 
when the soil round the roots becomes very 
dry. Three years ago I mulched my plants 
heavily with decomposed vegetable matter 
just before they started into growth, and 
they were w atered several times when coming 
into bloom. 1 had about two dozen varieties 
growing together in a bed. and they made a 
fine show. 

LlLIUM Krameri. —The gardens are few 
and far between in which this delicate, 
lovely Lily finds a happy home. It is diffi¬ 
cult to define the exact conditions which are 
necessary for its well being, but one thing is 
certain—it must have protection from hot 
sun and drying winds. Not being of robust 
habit, it cannot be grown among Rhododen¬ 
drons, where auratum is so much at home. 
It has not the power to live among a superior 
vegetation, but must have abundance of light 
and air. A cosy nook where evergreen shrubs 
afford shelter from cold winds when growth 
is being made in spring is the place for this 
Lily. A mixture of loam, leaf-mould, and 
peat is a safe rooting medium, and where the 
soil is naturally moisture-holding and in low- 
lying situations it is better to plant 3 inches 
or 4 inches above the ground level. Unless 
these conditions can he secured it is useless 
to attempt its culture. 

Campanula pusilla. — Biennial trans¬ 
planting seems to be necessary with this little 
Bellflower. If left alone for several years, it 
is apt, to die away in the centre, so that in¬ 
stead of broad, healthy patches carrying a 
hundred or more expanded blossoms one gets 
a poor-looking specimen with blooms not 
more than two-thirds of the normal size. Like 
most things of lowly growth that extend from 
the crown, it docs best when placed rather 
above the ordinary ground level, and where 
no rockery exists it will be happy if planted 
among stones partly embedded here and 
there in the soil, which, if naturally of a re¬ 
tentive nature, should get a liberal addition 
of decomposed vegetable matter. The white 
variety, with me, extends more freely than 
the type, but it is. unfortunately, weather 
sick, the flowers quickly losing their purity 
when exposed to frequent showers or hot 
sun. 

Oxalis floribunda. — With me, this 
flourishes in positions I should not have 
thought suitable. I have it growing among 
Ferns where scarcely any sun comes, and I 
have it where it gets the full force of the sun 
after mid-dav. In sunshine and shade it 
blooms equally well, and gives a fine show 
all through July and August. T cannot loo 
strongly recommend this Oxalis for planting 
on rockwork, among Ferns, or in the wood 
land garden. Dry weather does not in the 
least lower its blooming capacity—the fiercer 
the heat the better it blooms. In places 
where the natural herbage is thin, it would 
do very well naturalised, and might be em¬ 
ployed with excellent effect at the foot of 
-tree-stems, where it is difficult to get summor- 
bloommg things to thrive. For dry banks 
nothing can be better, and I strongly advise 
■those who may have positions of that kind to 
use it. It could also be used advantage¬ 
ously as a bedding plant, as it blooms at just 
the right time, aafPTt ak>ck caul easily be 
raised from seeds.J .COo|^fniLL. 


THE BEST TWENTY FIVE TUFTED 
PANSIES FOR BEDDING. 

We were asked a few days since by a well- 
known midland trade grower to select, from 
among some two hundred varieties that were 
then in very excellent condition, tweuty-five 
varieties that stood pre-eminent, in so far as 
regards their value for making a free and 
bright display in the hardy flower garden. 
Each variety was represented by a good 
square patch, so that its colour and general 
effect could be at once appreciated. We 
found our task much harder to fulfil than we, 
in the first place, anticipated. There were 
so many sorts that were regarded with favour 
for some reason or other, which, for bedding 
purposes, had very little to commend them, 
though the flowers individually represented 
quality of the very best. For this re nr on it 
was with certain misgivings that they were 
left out of this somewhat limited selection, 
but. from a garden decoration point of view', 
we were fully justified in ignoring them. With 
the greatest care each variety was looked 
into, comparison being made from time to 
time with sorts of a kindred shade of colour. 
The varieties were planted in sueccssional 
order from A to Z, and each one was in¬ 
spected very closely, and the respective points 
of merit were carefully noted. Those that 
were freely flowered, and, consequently, more 
attractive than the rest for massing pur¬ 
poses, were regarded with more favour than 
the less freely flowered kinds, however beauti¬ 
ful the latter may have been from the 
florist’s and exhibitor’s point of view. And 
then, as a final means of determining their 
value for massing the different beds, each in 
turn was viewed from a short distance, and 
those thn.t stood out well from the majority 
for making a bold and effective display were 
again noted, and their individual merits were 
again considered. In this way many of the 
older kinds were well to the fore, and in the 
subjoined list will be found several very 
familiar names. Some of the newer profuse 
flowering sorts tlmt may not in the past have 
gained the prominence they deserve, because 
tljo flowers are not of that gigantic character 
that certain growers seem to think is neces¬ 
sary, are brought to light in this case. 
Readers will observe that the selected varie¬ 
ties represent u goodly number of self 
coloured flowers, the striped, fancy tinted, 
and other kinds of curious form and strange 
colours being less valuable for creating an 
attractive display than the seifs, which latter 
display their wealth of colour so effectively. 
Plants that develop their blossoms on long 
flower-stalks, «o that the flowers are borne 
well above the foliage, are much more valu¬ 
able than those where the flowers are hidden 
away among the growths and foliage of the 
vigorous-growing specimens. Those of com¬ 
pact growth, as well as those possessing a 
creeping-like style of growth, stand out dis¬ 
tinctly from the others, and these are traits 
in the character of the Tufted Pansies that 
growers should always be on the look-out for. 

In making our selection each of the points 
enumerated above was given due considera¬ 
tion, and the undermentioned varieties may 
be said to embrace plants with the above 
“hall-mark” attached to them. We give 
prominence to the following varieties: — 
Acme, bright purplish-crimson, with effective 
yellow eye ; very free and consistent. Blue 
Rock, a very useful deep blue that comes 
into flower rather later than most others, 
but very effective when in flower. Blanche, 
a fine, large, creamy-white rnyless sort, that 
is also known under the name of White Em¬ 
press ; the plant, is a sturdy grower, and has 
a capital habit. Bessie, a very pretty ray less 
flower, that may be regarded as of a blush 
colour, with a white centre ; exceedingly free 
flowering, good habit. Charming is a lovely 
pale blush-lavender self of a distinct and 
pleasing shade, and rayless ; flowers in pro¬ 
fusion on plants with a good habit of growth. 
Cottage Maid is a fancy flow-er of the Coun¬ 
tess of Kin tore type ; the plant has a better 
habit than its prototype, and the colour is 
alternately bluish-purple and lavender, 
notched white. Duchess of Fife is one of 
the very best of the broadly-margined flowers ; 
it is a free bloomer, and the flowers stand 
out w’ell above its creeping-like style of 
grow tli; colour, primrose-yellow, broadly 


margined blue. Duncan is a splendid rich 
roval-purple self, and a most effective bed- 
der ; habit good, free flowering. Florizel is 
a very beautiful blush-lilac, ray less s**lf. 
charmingly veined; I he habit is dwarf and 
somewhat procumbent, and the plant i3 a 
profuse bloomer. Harriet Kent is one of the 
best neatly bordered varieties. Although the 
flowers are not very large, they are pleas¬ 
ingly disposed on plants with a nice compact 
habit of growth ; colour, white, edged pale 
blue, and rayless. J. B. Riding has for years 
been regarded favourably for the brightness 
of its bright purplish-crimson blossoms ; the 
plant is a profuse flowering sort, and is most 
consistent. Maggie Mott is a very distinct 
variety, and is included solely on account of 
the freedom of its display. The colour is a 
shade of bluish-lavender, and the habit of 
the plant is rather too vigorous. Mrs. A. D. 
Parker is a capital white ravless self, and 
flowers very freely on nice compact plants; 
this is a very excellent bedding sort, and is 
not sufficiently well known. The fragrant 
blossoms of Mrs. E. A. Cade make a very 
striking display ; their bright yellow colour 
and their ravless character make this variety 
much patterned : one of the very earliest to 
come into flower. Peace is a variety that 
may be -*aid to represent the ideal Tufted 
Pansy; circular in form, rayless, and de¬ 
veloped on sturdy plants, this variety is 
a very excellent one ; colour, white, tinted 
pale heliotrope. Mrs. Chichester is the 
largest flower of this series ; it is very free, 
and the flowers are borne on long, erect foot¬ 
stalks on vigorous-growing plants; colour, 
marbled and edged bluish-purple on white 
ground. Primrose Dame is a primrose- 
coloured ravless variety that for bedding is 
second to none ; most profuse flowering 
plant. Cygnet is n capital creamy-white 
variety of excellent quality, and is a most 
profuse bloomer. An ideal white ravless 
kind is Swan ; this flower has a square orange 
eye, which adds to its appearance, and the 
plant blooms in the greatest profusion. A 
very old sulphur-yellow self is Ardwell Gem. 
At the time of our visit the plants were in 
perfection, and the effect in the beds was very 
striking. Another flower of the fancy type 
is an old and valued sort named Mrs. H. Bel¬ 
lamy. The colour is deep purple and pale 
lavender, and, contrasted with some of the 
lighter colours, is most effective. A plant 
with a beautiful tufted habit is Westleigh 
Gem. The flowers, which arc of medium 
size, are borne in prodigal, profusion, and 
their colour is an effective rich orange-yellow . 
Marian Waters may lx* described as a shade 
of lavender-lilac, and in the summer season 
makes a grand display. This plant has a 
splendid constitution. Lady Warwick, a new 
bluish-purple and rayless; and Tnmworth 
Gem, a beautiful rayless pale yellow’, with a 
narrow edging of bluish-heliotrope, will com¬ 
plete the serie$. D. B. C. 


THE GARDEN PINKS. 

These plants have contributed veiy consider¬ 
ably to our enjoyment of the hardy flower 
garden during the present summer season, 
and we have seldom seen them in better con¬ 
dition in any previous year. They have 
flowered in the greatest profusion, and their 
fragrance has been distinctly charming. We 
are beginning to understand why the older 
florists found such interest in the Pinks, and 
now that there are so many excellent varieties 
added to those of earlier days, a collection of 
beautiful sorts may be acquired quite easily, 
and at a comparatively low cost. We must 
confess to a weakness for a morning gather¬ 
ing of dainty blossoms placed in a vase oil 
the breakfast table to inspire one for the 
day. Those that have done well with us are 
the following varieties:—Snowdrift, largo 
and «f fine form, white with rose flush in the 
centre; verv free and distinct, splendid con¬ 
stitution. Dresden, centre and margin rose, 
on white ground; splendid form. Lufra, 
large flowers of good quality, borne quite 
freely; maroon centre, laced deep red. 
Beauty lias large and full flowers of good 
form ; white, with rosv-crim6on centre. 
Homer, a pretty fringed rose sort, with dark 
crimson centre. John Ball, a correctly-laced 
variety of good form ; Mom a, another plant 
bearing largo flowers; white ground, with 



admixtures of soils, and may ho grown with The typical species is, however, left far be- 
every success in light, loamy soils, to which | hind in point of beauty by the very hand- 
plenty of sharp sand or road-grit has been some K. B. major, whose solitary blossoms, 
added. In other words, sharp grit would ap- on stems 2 inches or 3 inches high, are up- 
pear far more of an essential in the cultiva- wards of an inch across. This variety is 
tion of these plants generally than lime, and j often before the first named in point of time, 
while many can be grown quite well without and its scarlet stems and scarlet-tipped buds 
lime, few can be well-grown in soils that are are attractive long before the first flower 
retentive, and which contain but little sand expands. A far better plant than the type 
or grit. For years I grew’ the choicest of ' in every way, and one of the most valuable 
these Saxifrages in a mixture of loam and of all a'lpines. There is more than one form 
sharp sand, with broken brick added rather of this plant, while others, bearing such 
freely to tin? bulk. For preference, a soft names as “maxima” and “ giandiflora.” 
brick of red colour was chosen, and pounded would appear but seedling forms. S. B. 
up very small. Another rather important macrantha, the least attractive in growth, is 
item to not, a few of these plants is that they a late flowering kind, with blossoms of large 
prefer to have their roots against, some hard size; it is a poor grower and a shy bloomer, 
substance, as, e.j/., a stone, the sides of an S. B. gloria is the most recent novelty, its 
ordinary flower pot, or even a brick. It is I pure white blossoms almost covering the en- 
probably due to this fact that so many kinds tire plant. This very handsome variety re 
succeed so admirably when planted in a wall, ceived an “award of merit” from the Royal 
as in the chinks between the brick or stone. Horticultural Society in the spring of this 
Certain it is that the soil for these plants year. Nearly all the varieties of Burser’s 
may be too plentiful, as well as too rich, and Saxifrage have sweet-scented flowers, the 
in pot-grown examples, where the ordinary “major” variety being perhaps the most 
8-inch or 9-inch pots are used to form speei- pronounced. Where the best varieties only 
men plants, abundance of drainage must be an3 grown, it is possible to have flowering 
given, and the soil freely charged with examples from mid-February to the end or 
pieces of brick, sandstone, or old mortar, if March. All the varieties o*f S. Burscriana 
procurable. In Nature not a few species are aro greatly benefited by frequent division 

and by repotting each year. Plants on the 
rockery should be divided or the tufts well 
mulched with grit and loam. This mulching 
is essential to continued good health, end 
new roots pushing from the base of the 
rosettes give increased vigour to the plant. 
Anyone interested in the varying forms of 
Burser’s Saxifrage would do well to visit 
the hardy plant nurseries in the early months 
of the year, and select the more distinct w hen 
in flower. 

A very early and valuable white flowered 
kind is 

S. Boydii ai.ua, an inappropriate name to 
a first-class plant. From the name it would 
appear 40 he but a white-flowered form of S. 
Boydii, from which it is most distinct, in 
grow th, in flower, and in time of blossoming. 
Its blossoms are singularly pure iu tone, 
quite opaque, and of large size. Not more 
than 1 inch high, when well grown it is pre¬ 
cious by reason of its early flowering, often 
appearing in advance of Burser’s kind. The 
plant is of free growth, and easily cultivated. 
Distinct from all in the rather free, open ar¬ 
rangement of the rosettes, and the absence of 
the more densely tufted character, the plant 
spreading in a lateral direction. 

S. CM3SIA.—A diminutive species from the 
Alps of Europe, and a charming plant withal. 
The pure white blossoms, usually three or 
more, on the most slender, erect stems, rarely 
2 inches high, appear in May and Juno, and 
generally with great freedom. The en¬ 
crusted character of the rosettes is quite pro¬ 
nounced, and the dainty blossoms are among 
the most pleasing. A gem for wedging be¬ 
tween stones, or for firm planting in the rook- 
tuto quite an indispensable group among the i found with their root-fibres clinging closely garden. 

earliest flowering alpines of the year. In to the rock, and by its means descending to cochlearis. —A most delightful plant, 

deed, in not a few instances the flowering a very considerable depth in search of mois with somewhat cupped rosettes of leaves, 
extends into the early summer-time, and lure. the latter distinctly spathulate. 'I he blos- 

hardly a week from February to June is In planting out in the rock garden, there- * oms are nearly snow-white, and of starry 

minim some precious example in flower. And fore, it is important that plenty of grit be appearance. '1 he graceful flowering sprays 
when it i.s remembered that this extended added to the soil, that a perfect drainage are about 9 inches high, and in June the 
period of flowering but concerns one section exist, and that firm planting he indulged in plant is one of the most welcome and attrae- 
of this large genus, some idea of the value of for all kinds. In this way, and by affording tive. This species delights iu plenty of sum- 
thc genus as a whole may be readily gathered, plenty of moisture in dry weather, there l 114 * 1 ’ moisture, and only then does it develop 
In brief, the members of this family, or, at need be little trouble in growing the best of rosettes to the fullest extent. Apart from 
least, a large number of them, are of eon- these encrusted sorts. abundance of moisture, it is partial to oal- 

siderable importance to those who grow When it is desired to increase the stock of eareous soils. A plant to lx? freely on- 
alpine plants on a large or small scale. any kind, this should bo done by careful divi eouraged. S. e. minor (sen illustration) is 

Not the least valuable to the general cul- sion of the plant when flowering is past, more frequently sold under S. Valdens?s, 
tivator of alpine plants, and of great in taking care to replant the newly-divided which in some respects it resembles. 'the 
terest to the specialist,, are those with en- portions low down in the soil and quite close, tufted character of the rosettes and 

crusted leafage, by which is meant that ex- firmly. It is worthy of note that the more the slender, drooping stems are so well shown 

ternal calcareous deposit on the leaves, by common sorts are greatly benefited by perio hi the picture that description is unnecessary, 

some interpreted to indicate the lime-loving dieal division of the tufts, and only when 1° or ou ^ °f flower, the plant is decidedly 

propensity of the plant. Whether this is this is done are the plants capable of the pretty. Plenty of old mortar should be cm 
true or not, I am not going to decide. Cer- fullest development, and from these alone ployed with the soil for this one. S. c. major 
tain it is that a large majority of these en- can the best flowering be expected. a rather bold and, as raised from seeds, 

crusted sorts display a fondness for lime in The following are some of the most beau- variable plant. 

some form, and it. is frequently noticeable tiful and interesting of these plants: S. Rooiiei.iana is a dwarf-growing, oonv 

that certain species ulmost luxuriate when Saxifkaua Biksekiana. —Burser’s Saxi pact-habited plant from Eastern Europe, and 
grown in the loamy soils over chalk. frage has over been a great favourite, pro- in point of utility is surpassed by the variety 

Happily, however, for the amateur, who ducing its pure white blossoms in February S. R. eoriophvlla. which frequently does 
possesses but little knowledge of the so-called from a tuft of spine pointed, silvery-grey duty for it. The latter is best suited for a 
requirements of these plants, a very large rosettes of leaves. The blossoms are usually partially shaded place in the rook garden, 
number are by no means exacting as to such solitary, on stems less than an inch high, preferably where 1 -tuft can overhang a 



deep maroon-crimson lacing. Braekleen, rose ! 
centre, with deep rose margin on white I 
ground. Ascot, another pink coloured sort, ' 
with deep red centre. Sarah, another well- I 
laced flower, white, with deep red centre. ! 
Mrs. Waite, a flower with medium lacing. I 
white, with reddish centre. Oriel, large 1 
flowers, with rose centre; prettily fringed ; ( 
and Her Majesty, a well-known sort bearing 
large white flowers. It would be a simple i 
matter to add to the foregoing, but, for a he- ' 
ginner, those mentioned will make the I 
nucleus of a more comprehensive, selection to 
be acquired later. We have just, been propn j 
gating by slips, and have every reason to ex | 
jH'Ct our usual good fortune in rooting most i 
of them. 'The Pinks are very hardy, and ' 
there are few flowers more delightfully 
scented, and, for the hardy border, every 
lover of hardy plants should have a few 
colonies of plants in his or her garden. 

C. A. II. | 

SOME WHITE FLOWERED ENCRUSTED 
SAXIFRAGES. 

The genus Saxifraga is especially rich in 
white-flowered species, and with numerous 
varieties, and here and there a well marked 
natural or artificiallv-raised hybrid, consti- 


Google 


Digit 












334 


GARDENING ILL VSTRATED. 


August 21, 1997 


moist, ledge of rock. The pure white bios 
h 0/118 in clustered heads appear in April and 
May. A capital plant for moist, and prefer¬ 
ably calcareous, loam. 

S. Solomoni, a hybrid between S. Rochel- 
iana and S. Burseriana, is at once the most 
densely tufted of all encrusted kinds, and the 
most shy blooming. The plant increases 
with remarkable freedom and rapidity, and 
is certainly the most perfect carpeter of the 
whole group. The white flowers are slightly 
cupped, and produced solitary, on reddish 
steme ‘.l inches high. April. 

S. hcaRMCA.- There are two very distinct 
and heautifnl white-flowered kinds bearing 
tins name, both bailing from Macedonia. 
One of tluviP, figured in the Rotanical Maga¬ 
zine a year or more ago, possesses the tufted 
hahit of S. Rocheliana, and with few cal 
eareous spots on the bluntish leaves. In the 
other plant, two-thirds of the length of the 
awl-shaped, acutely-pointed leaves are pitted 
with conspicuous white dots along the mar 
gin. and in this respect it is one of the most 
attractive and beautiful of encrusted kinds. 
The twain are of easy cultivation in very 
gritty loam. Flowering in April and May. 

8. Valdensis, from the Alps of Piedmont, 
ok*., is one of the choicest of these white- 
flowered encrusted sorts. The true plant is 
somewhat scarce, and, as already noted, S. 
oochlearis minor is frequently sold for it. 
Other white-flowered sorts not often seen are 
S. Boryi and S. marginata, the former from 
(t recce, the latter from Central Italy. The 
twain should be found in the choicer collec¬ 
tions of these plants. 

S. Vandklm, from the Tyrol, is at onoe a 
rare and choice kind, and possibly one of the 
most difficult to manage successfully. The 
spiny, pointed rosettes are conipouiidly tufted 
and greenish, rarely glaucous or encrusted. I 
have only succeeded with this kind by tightly 
wedging it between stones, and growing in 
the merest scrap of soil. Perfect drainage 
must be given. The pure white blossoms 
are produced in clustered heads during April 
and May. ami a good flowering example is 
worth trying for. 

While a large number of white-flowered 
kinds are of necessity passed by, mention 
must be made of the great, Pyrenean Rock- 
foil (Saxifraga longifolia), whose rosettes of 
leaves often reach G inches or 8 inches across. 
It is certainly the prince of white-flowered 
kinds, sending up pyramidal plumes of blos¬ 
soms 18 inches high. A valuable plant for 
colonising on exposed rocky ground, or for 
nearly vertical positions on walls, etc. The 
species must, be reproduced from seeds, as 
the rosettes j/erisli after flowering. Here 
and there some of thes? long-leaved kinds 
produce offsets, which arc always worth re¬ 
taining. Plenty of old mortar or sandstone 
should be used in the soil, and perfect drain¬ 
age given. 

S. I.aNTOSCANA and its variety superba are 
among the most valuable of these plants, and 
should be grown by all. The type, with its 
starry blossoms, is very effective, but is sur¬ 
passed by the variety above-named, which 
has dense arching racemes of white flowers. 
In the rock garden this is a most attractive 
plant, growing and flowering with groat free¬ 
dom. These present no difficulty to the cul¬ 
tivator, provided a free, open mixture of loam 
and grit he given them. Planted on a sunny 
raised ledge of rock, these appear to advan¬ 
tage when in bloom in May ami early June. 
Not far removed in the general appearance 
of its clustering rosettes is a novelty named 
Dr. Ramsay. In the more erect character 
of the inflorescence there is some resemblance 
to S. cochlearis, while the blossoms are of 
the purest white. A first-class plant in every 
way, and, flowering in March and April in 
southern gardens, will be among the most 
valuable. As yet the plant is hardly known, 
and but few have flowered it. Mv impres¬ 
sion, from experience, is that the plant is an 
excellent grower, and, building up good 
rosettes quickly, will blossom freely also. 
All these S. lantoscana forms are included 
botanically under the South European S. 
liugulata. A very distinct plant, S. Catalan 
idea, from Northern Spain, is to be reconi 
mended Iwcause of the conspicuous inerusta 
tion of its leaves. In this respect it is one 
of the most striking and effective, and in 
winter especially So pronouncedly cn 

Digitized by (jOOglC 


crusted are its leaves that anyone unae 
quainted with it might imagine it was laid 
on artificially. The rather short, few- 
flowered spike of blossoms is not attractive, 
while its rosettes of leaves will hardly be 
missed in any collection. The foregoing are 
among the most select, but such as S. dia- 
pensioides, S. squarrosa, and S. Tombeahen- 
flis are rare and beautiful, exceedingly minute 
in their growth, while producing blossoms of 
comparatively large size. 

Apart from those mentioned are others of 
merit, and such fine silver leaved sorts as 
Hostii, elatior. and the like occur at once. 
From these are reached by easy stages the 
beautiful forme of S. cotyledon, S. Macnab 
iana, etc., with their larger plumes, usually 
more or less spotted with crimson, and which 
arc unequalled for their handsome appear 
ance anil decorative properties in or out of 
bloom. E. H. Jenkins. 

Hampton Ilill . 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Carnation Cecilia — Mrs. H. de Z. will bo glad to 
know the reason why the enclosed Carnation Cecilia 
never comes to perfection? The plants and buds are 
perfectly healthy, but as soon as they open the 
leaves are brown at the edges. She lias tried them 
indoors and out, and this year has them under a 
north wall in her garden, as she thought it was the 
sun. Is it anything to do with the soil? These 
blooms are grown outdoors. 

[The most likely cause of the brown-tipped 
petals is moisture, and in flowers of con¬ 
siderable fulness that take a long time to 
open this tendency would be increased. In a 
greenhouse the same thing is made possible 
by a too close atmospheric condition, which 
would be responsible for the moisture con¬ 
densing on the buds or petal-tips, or by over¬ 
head syringing. In a greenhouse at. the ap¬ 
proach of flowering it is far the best plan to 
observe a ]>erfeetly dry, buoyant condition, 
with overhead dryness, while maintaining 
free supplies of ground moisture. This, with 
ample moisture at the roots of the plants in 
conjunction with free drainage, will usually 
give the best results. The buds sent were 
otherwise vigorous and good, and this alone 
points to a local temporary condition as the 
chief cause. Try protecting the flower-buds 
from overhead moisture before there are any 
signs of opening.—E. J.] 

Diseased Violets -Could you please inform me 
the name of the plant of which I have enclosed leaf, 
and also value of same, in your Gardening Illus¬ 
trated?—H. I). 

[We hardly know if we may take your let¬ 
ter seriously. You enclose a couple of 
diseased Violet leaves—the disease is of a 
fungoid nature, and known as Puceinia 
viol®—but when you inquire as to the “value 
of same,” we doubt very much if you are in a 
serious mood.] 

Climber for producing cut flowers —On a high 
trellis 1 have at present a very vigoious plant of the 
Everlasting Pen, which I am going to remove, ns the 
flowers change colour so rapidly that I find it of 
little use for cutting. The aspect is west and open, 
so that it gets the sun nearly all day. What is the 
most suitable plant to occupy the site, in view of the 
fact that rut flowers are the great desideratum, and 
that 1 have already as many climbing Roses ns are 
roijiiired in a not too large garden? I ran think of 
nothing so likely as the White Everlasting Pea. but 
should like n change, if possible.— Town Gardener. 

[As you are well supplied with Roses, we 
are of opinion that the white Everlasting Pea 
would be the most suitable subject. You 
had better obtain the much-improved variety 
which is named The Pearl.] 

Scabiouses. -As a garden flower, 1 am in¬ 
clined to think that the Scabious is not 
grown nearly so much as was the case some 
twenty years ago. but it is a beautiful sub¬ 
ject for growing in the hardy plant border, 
anil blooms with much profusion during July 
and August. It is a good friend to the town 
gardener, inasmuch as it flowers freely under 
conditions that, to some plants, would mean 
failure. The Scabiouses are not difficult to 
propagate, and sowing the seed now, or divid¬ 
ing the plants when they have done blooming, 
will ensure a supply. They are somewhat 
old fashioned, and may be regarded by some 
as out of date, but they are pretty, and last 
a long time in bloom. Townsman. 

Propagating Cypsophilas. That useful 
adjunct to a vase of flowers, Clypsophila 
paniculata. is so popular now amongst flower 
buyers that one would imagine it a common 


object in a garden, but this is not so, and it 
is surprising how few really grow it. May 1 
say that it is easily raised from seed, which 
may be sown now in a cold-frame, or old 
plants may be divided in the autumn or 
spring. There is, however, always a certain 
amount of risk in dividing the roots, owing 
to their fleshy nature, being quickly broken 
if care is not taken. I leeommend to 
growers of Gypsophila another method, and 
that is striking cuttings of the young shoots. 
These can he taken at once, and dibbled, 
round the sides of a pot of sandy loam, and 
placed in u cold frame n«-ar the glass to pie 
vent their flagging. After a few weeks they will 
take root, and should he potted off separately, 
being planted out in their filial quarters in 
spring. This is one of the best means of 
securing a stock of plants. Townsman. 

Cerman Irises.— Few tilings in the hardy 
flower border in June and the early part of 
July are more gorgeous than are the blooms 
of the German, or Flag, Irises, and it may 
truly be 6aid that few plants need less atten¬ 
tion throughout the year, or bloom with 
greater freedom under often adverse condi¬ 
tions. I have in my mind’s eye a garden 
that in July was a blaze of colour with these 
beautiful flowers ; it is only a little garden 
in a very congested neighbourhood, but it 
claimed the attention of many a passer-by 
when the Irises were in full beauty. The 
clumps will go for a couple of years without 
attention, hut after this time it is advisable 
to divide them, otherwise they do not flower 
with such freedom ns do plants that are not 
cramped for room at the roots. No time, 
therefore, should be lost in dividing plants 
that need it.— Townsman. 

Spir&a ari®folia.— This is one of the 
noblest of the Spiraeas, and. when given 
space and grown in rich soil under moist, 
cool conditions, it develop into a beautiful 
shrub, the panicles of creamy-white flowers 
being surrounded by dense masses of foliage, 
that help to set off the blossoms. The pre¬ 
sent. has been one of the best seasons, owing 
to much wet, which never fails to suit such 
moisture loving things as Spirmas, and, as a 
consequence, some of them have made much 
growth. I have noticed occasionally how nn- 
suited they are to dry, sunny borders; in 
fact, one could scarcely «give them a worse 
position, hut, planted on a shrubbery border, 
with plenty of space about the roots, and 
with chance or shade, they never fail to do 
well, the surrounding foliage only tending to 
heighten the beauty of the Hpirieas.— Lea- 
hurst. 

Achillea The Pearl. —Where ver white 
flowers that may be grown in the garden are 
appreciated, no one should fail to have a 
plant or two of this old Achillea The Pearl. 
It is wonderfully liardv, and, grown under 
moderately moist conditions, seldom fails to 
do well. Last year, in consequence of the 
drought, plants* in my garden did not give 
much satisfaction, but this season with copi¬ 
ous rains they have been most prolific in 
blooming. The flowers are pure white, and 
are borne in clusters. Add to this that it 
will grow in almost any garden where the soil 
is fairly deep, makes a capital plant for a 
town garden, and lasts a considerable time 
when in bloom.— Woodbaatwick. 

The Scarlet Martagon (Lilium chalcedoni 
cum).—In his notes on Lilies, page 310, J. 
Crook speaks of his want of success in grow¬ 
ing this Lily, concerning which I mav be 
able to point out a probable cause of failure. 
Like many of the Martagon section, this is 
not a peat-loving Lily, hence a new 7 bed made 
for Rhododendrons and containing, presum¬ 
ably, a good deal of peat, is by no means an 
ideal place for it. Conditions most favour 
able to the Scarlet Martagon Lily are a 
deep, loamy soil, effectually, but not exces¬ 
sively, drained, a slight protection, such as 
that* afforded by dwarf shrubs, and, once 
planted, the bulbs must be allowed to remain 
undisturbed. A notable feature of this Lily 
and several of its immediate allies is that 
the bulbs seldom flower in a satisfactory 
manner the first season after planting : in¬ 
deed. under most favourable conditions they 
continue to improve year by year. The roots 
of the Scarlet Martagon are few in number, 
but very stout, am} of a deep, descending 
nature; therefore, a considerable depth of 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




August 2-1 1007 


GARDENING IL L UST RATE D. 


335 




Monkey-flowers (Mimulus). 


soil is beneficial. The Japanese Martagon, 
Lilium Hansoni, differs from most members 
of this section, inasmuch as it will flower 
well the first season after planting. With re¬ 
gard to your correspondent’s query re the 
hardiness*of the White Martngon, my experi¬ 
ence proves it to be as hardy as the ordinary 
form, hence no doubt need Ive felt on that 
score. With regard to the White or 
Madonna Lily, it is strange that, the finest 
specimens are usually to be met with in 
cottage gardens, which is. I think, to a cer¬ 
tain extent, owing to the fact that, once 
planted, they are allowed to remain undis¬ 
turbed. X. 


production, and from one of 
the dwnrfcst and most heauti- 
ful of strains, it was my rule to 
sow seed thinly on fine soil and 
in shallow pane early in Feb¬ 
ruary. Although always in 
quite a cold house, seed 
covered for a short time with 
newspaper would soon germi¬ 
nate, and it became needful to 
prick out the seedlings into 
shallow boxes in fine, sandy 
soil, to give them room to de¬ 
velop. Giving the plants 
2 inches from each other, it 
was possible by the end of 
April to plant them out on to a 
west border, as such frosts as 
we get in May would do them 
no harm. 

The giant forms of the 
spotted Mimulus have rather 
too much throat—not a desir¬ 
able feature. They also have 
insufficient variety in ground 
or blotch colours. It may well 
be worth while for any ama¬ 
teur to again use the dwarf 
M. cup re us with these giant 
forms to effect a new cross and 
see the result. An enthusias¬ 
tic amateur? Mr. Clapham, 
once raised a red-flowered 
Musk. I grew it for several 
years, but it lacked the strong 
constitution of the true Musk. 
The varieties here illustrated 
show dark—indeed, almost 
black—blotches on a white 
ground. 

It seems strange to me that some¬ 

one has not, long before now. taken the 
yellow M. luteus and the scarlet M. oar- 

ilinalis in hand and sought to engraft on 


to them the varied markings and dwarfer 
habit of M. tigrinus. - 

A. D. 

PentstemonB. — These deJightful old 
flowers are not grown as much as they ought 
to be, nor as much as one would expect, con¬ 
sidering the amount of blossoms they yield 
in a season, and the very simple culture they 
need. Pentstemons have been likened unto 
Gloxinias, so beautiful are the colourings, 
and look very nice when grown in beds by 
themselves, or in groups on a rockery, for 
which they are very suitable. With the 
autumn close upon lis, I would like to say 
that it will soon he time to take cuttings, and 
these, if put in a cold-frame, need no more 
attention than Calceolarias- in fact, I grow 
them under the same lmndlight, and they 
need precisely the same treatment in growing 
them hardy, and in admitting air, and stop¬ 
ping the plants once or twice to induce a 
bushy liabit. — W oodbahtw it' k. 

Tropseolum speciosum. It has to be ad¬ 
mitted that this Tiopfeolum will not succeed 
everywhere, but when once it becomes estab¬ 
lished all who grow it are loud in their 
praises of it. Its tender, green, trailing 
shoots, and its numerous red—an almost 
brick-red—flowers stamp it as a creeper some¬ 
what out of the ordinary, and it is worth alL 
the trouble it entails. Generally speaking, 
T. speciosum, which is frequently met with 
on cottages north of the Tweed, is best ac¬ 
commodated when planted at the foot of a 
north or east wall, and particularly in locali¬ 
ties where moisture is prevalent, and, being 
herbaceous when once it does well, it gives 
little labour, for it will cling to any light 
support. Every year one notices the tubers 
advertised for sale, but my experience 
prompts me to say that unless they can be 
procured in pots, it is better to plant them 
in the autumn.— Woodbastwick. 


MIMULUS (MONKEY-FLOWER). 
There are several distinct species of Mimulus 
grown in gardens, the most popular of all, 
perhaps, being the Musk-plant (Mimulus 
moschatus). Now and then we see in garden 
borders both the tall-growing red-flowered 
M. cardinalis and the, ]>erhaps, more com¬ 
mon M. luteus. Both these grow 2 feet in 
height, and are perennial. The spotted forms 
figured are sometimes known as M. 
tigrinus or M. maculosus. They are, like the 
preceding, perennial, but. rather more tender. 
1 have had clumps making dense masses of 
.shoots close to the ground till Christinas, and 
then they have succumbed to hard frosts. 
But, when thought desirable, especially if the 
variety (and variety is great in a good seed 
stock) was specially worth saving, such 
clumps lifted, each shoot bring dibbled up 
into shallow boxes and stood in a cold frame 
or greenhouse, have rooted freely, and in the 
spring grown with all the freedom of the 
Watercress, and, by the end of April, when 
they may be safely planted outdoors, have 
been clumps 6 inches across. Apart from 
this easy method of reproduction, these 
Minmluses seed freely, and but a few pods 
saved from some of the finest or richest 
coloured flowers will suffice to raise hundreds 
of seedlings. These may be grown in pots, 
and if the centre stem be pinched out, numer 
oua side shoots break up, and if later the 
plants be got into 6-inch or 7-inch pots really 
very beautiful specimens are easily obtained: 
Such plants need no heat; indeed, they can 
hardly be kept too cool. In that respect 
these Mimuluses commend themselves readily 
to amateur gardeners. If kept close or in 
warmth, not only do the plants become 
drawn, hut are apt. to become infested with 
aphis. When, many years ago, growing 
annually several blindra«%of plants fqr seed 

Digitized by 


o, growin 
its fqr see 

gle 


Mimulus lutens variegatus. 


Original from 

From a photograph by My.-C. Jones, Bourne, Lincoln. 

UNIVtftbll i Or ILLIrvK 
URBANA-CHAMPAI 









GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Auol’rt 24, 1007 


336. 


ROSES. 

TEA ROSES PLANTED OUT. 

Since the increased demand for Tea Roses 
in private establishments pot culture has, to 
a great extent, been superseded by the plant¬ 
ing-out system, it being no uncommon thing 
to find a good-sized house entirely devoted 
to them, gardeners finding from experience 
that far better and more lasting results can 
be obtained from plants so grown than when 
the roots are confined to the narrow limits of 
a pot, and that the trouble attending their 
culture is also reduced to a minimum. Large 
growers who cater for the metropolitan and 
other large markets continue of necessity pot 
culture, as during the summer months their 
huge houses arc required for the accommoda¬ 
tion of Tomatoes, and the pot-Roses can then 
be stood out-of-doors. 

Tea Roses succeed well either in a span- 
roofed or lean-to structure, provided ample 
provision is made for abundant ventilation. 
If in a lean-to house, the back wall can be 
utilised for fruit-trees, or climbing Roses 
may be planted thereon. When a new house 
is built for the purpose, it is always best to 
fix the roof-lights so that they can be removed 
after the blooming season is over in order to 
allow' of copious rains watering the border, 
cleansing the foliage, and affording full ex¬ 
posure to the air until the beginning of No¬ 
vember. There is no comparison between a 
house of Roses so treated and one which has 
the lights permanently fixed and in which all 
root and atmospheric moisture has to he ap¬ 
plied artificially. The first consideration is 
the border, which need not be more than 
2 feet deep, well drained, and composed, if 
possible, of a good sound maiden loam, rather 
strong than otherwise, although experience 
proves that many of the best Teas will not 
do in what is usually termed a clay loam. 
To this may he added a sixth part of rotten 
manure and road grit or coarse sand. If the 
border is prepared in summer it has then a 
chance to sink and become firm before the 
fall of the leaf, which is. perhaps, the best 
time for transplanting, although really Tea 
Roses can hardly be said to be dormant at any 
season of the year. Young plants, say. from 
G-inch pots are by far the best, these invari¬ 
ably doing much better than old plants that 
have been forced, perhaps, for years, and 
have had much of their vitality taken out of 
them. Make the soil firm about the roots, 
and give a slight mulch of leafy refuse to 
prevent undue evaporation, throwing the 
house open day and night even when mode¬ 
rate frosts prevail. 

In private gardens January is about the 
best time for closing the house with a view 
of inducing growth, nnd to this end pruning 
may be performed in December. At one time 
the word pruning would have been con¬ 
sidered out of place, as gardeners of the old 
school believed in removing entirely the weak 
shoots and allowing the main growths to re¬ 
main almost at their full length. Market 
growers, however, prune their Tea Roses al¬ 
most as rigorously as their Hybrid Per- 
petuals, and it goes without saving that the 
success attained by (hem could not easily he 
surpassed. Three feet apart all ways is a 
good space to allow the plants, crowding, 
under the pretence of making the best use of 
the house, being a great mistake and a loss in 
the end. Tin 1 border must be well moistened, 
but owing to the early date at which the 
house is started a sloppy condition must by 
all means he avoided, or mildew, the greatest 
enemy of Tea Roses, will be sure to assert 
itself. Overhead syringing, also, must on no 
account be practised by rule-of thumb, a 
gentle spraying several times weekly during 
January in fine weather being ample, increas¬ 
ing it when, during February, the sun’s rays 
are more powerful. Abundance of air must 
be given in fine weather, even when sun is 
absent, a little being left on all night when 
mild. The front ventilators, however, must 
remain closed, as draught to the tender leaf¬ 
age is simply ruinous. As a rule, green flv 
makes its appearance at an early stage of 
growth, hut this can immediately be stopped 
bv syringing with Quassia extract half a 
pint to five gallons of water - or by ordinary 
fumigation. 

Digitized by Cl CL >^lC 


One great advantage of the planting out 
system is that the plants generally throw up 
extra strong, sucker-like shoots from the 
base, and when this is the case, any stimu¬ 
lants during the first season should not be 
given. As soon as the bulk of the blooms is 
past, the plants should be relieved of any 
weak grow'ths, and the remainder encouraged 
by plenty of root moisture, liberal syringings, 
and an abundance of fresh air, front air now 
being imperative. In July the roof-lights may 
be entirely removed, when, with the exception 
of an occasional watering, if the weather 
should b* diy, the plants will lake cure of 
themselves, tin* lights being again replaced in 
November. 


WILLIAM ALLEN RICHARDSON. 

I do not know whether my experience is ex¬ 
ceptional, hut 1 cannot recall a season when 
the buds of this charming Rose have been so 
rich in colour. 1 am referring more espe¬ 
cially to those grown in standard form. 
The rich yolk of cgg-colour has been grand, 
and, when thus obtained, this popular Rose 
still remains the best of its colour. When 
not on standard or half standard, it should 
be on the Brier in some form, either seedling 
or cutting, unless own roots are obtainable. 
It roots freely if cuttings are inserted under 
hand-lights during August, selecting nice 
firm wood, with alieel if possible. In plant, 
ing this Rose, care should be taken to give it 
a position where plenty of air is obtainable, 
and for this reason 1 advocate an open part 
of the garden rather than on a wall, although 
as a wall-Ruse it is fine, excepting that the 
colour is not always good. 1 have found 
that the best results are obtained if plenty of 
new growths are encouraged. This can be 
accomplished by first of all securing for the 
roots good soil, well and deeply cultivated, 
careful planting, seeing that the roots are 
well spread out and planted firmly, and then 
a free removal of old wood at pruning time. 
I am not in favour of pruning these half- 
hardy Roseo in summer or autumn, as we do 
the Ramblers, but, as plants age, it may be 
advisable to take out an old growth or two 
after first flowering, to enable the younger 
wood to mature better. Liquid-manure may' 
be applied freely to the roots of established 
plants, but it should be given in a weak (date, 
and frequently. The drainings from a cow¬ 
shed are excellent, and soot added in modera¬ 
tion is a great aid to rich colouring in Roses. 

All who love this type of Rose should 
plant Crepuscule and Mine. Pierre Cochet. 
They are excellent and distinct. Mine. Hec¬ 
tor Leuilliot is also a great gain, yielding fine 
large blossoms of a rich orange colour. These 
Rcses may be grown in beds if desired, plant¬ 
ing them about 3 feet apart each way and 
partly pegging down some of the growths, 
cutting them away after flowering. I have 
seen gram! beds of Win. Allen Richardson 
grown in this way. Ros\. 


ROSES FAILING. 

At page 29G, “Hatohford” complains about 
the failure of some “ Lyons Roses,” and. from 
the reply appended, the cause of the failure 
is more or less in doubt. I may sav, how¬ 
ever, that a large number of continental 
Rose growers graft their plants on to the 
merest scrap of root very often, a system 
which, while in some degree suiting the 
plants in the districts in which they are 
grown, is frequently attended by failure in 
the British Isles. T have seen thousands of 
such plants, as sent to this country, and, as a 
rule, the growths are singularly green look¬ 
ing and very sappy, as though the plants had 
constituted a late-worked hatch, and had 
been hurried into growth to make some sort 
of show. Needless to say. this green and 
sappy growth, more particularly when it con¬ 
cerns Teas, or Hybrid Teas, is the least likely 
to pass through an ordinary English winter 
with success. If to this condition of things 
the fibrous roots (as pointed out in the reply) 
had suffered unduly during transit, the plants 
were virtually dead when planted. At one 
time, because of the cheapness or apparent 
cheapness of the article at the moment Tea 
Rose plants were largely purchased by 
growers in England, and only the continued 
loss of the plants prevented further orders 


in the same direction. Of course, there are 
well-matured Roses sent, from the continent 
each year from reliable sources, but there is 
also an infinite amount of the veriest trash. 
Frequently these latter may be described as 
all top and little bottom, and more than once 
I have been puzzled to know how the some¬ 
what clustered growths forming the bush 
were produced with so little root-fibre below. 
Only a season or two back my opinion was 
asked concerning a large lot of these plants, 
and the owner viewed me with dismay when I 
suggested making a bonfire of the lot at once. 
This, indeed, was really done shortly after¬ 
wards. 

It is most important that these Roses, which 
usually suffer in transit, unless perfectly 
packed, be plunged overhead in a tank of 
water as soon as received. I have frequently 
recommended that the plants be immersed a 
dozen, and sometimes twenty-four, hours, 
and, in any case, an all-night soaking w ill do 
them much good. It can be seen by the bark 
at the end of that time whether it is necessary, 
after heeling the plants in the ground, to 
further cover the branches with wet mats for 
a time. Were these precautions more fre¬ 
quent, the losses in fresldy-pnrchased Roses 
would be much reduced. Few things dry up 
more quickly at the root, and, so far as I 
know, suffer in the same degree from exposure 
to the air as do Roses, and the fact should 
not be ignored. 

E. Jenkins. 


A FINE DECORATIVE ROSE. 

It was to be expected that Caroline Testout, 
grandest of all pink Roses, would produce 
offspring of great beauty, especially when 
taken in hand by the skilled hybridist. 

One of its finest, productions is unquestion¬ 
ably Countess Cairns, sent out a few' years 
ago by Messrs. Win. Paul and Son, of Wal¬ 
tham Cross. It is of a glorious rich china 
pink, a marvellous, fresh, glowing colour, 
very charming in the half-open flowers, and 
paling to silvery pink in the huge expanded 
blossoms. Some of tJie latter are fully 
5 inches across, little more than semi-double; 
but when allowed to grow without disbudding 
a truss of these immense blossoms is a per¬ 
fect bouquet. The flowers are exquisitely 
formed in the bud. and when half open 
having a perfect high centre, and then, when 
the centre petals unfold, they open out into 
a flower of much loveliness and decorative 
value. The growth is very strong, equalling 
Caroline Testout, but more diffuse in habit— 
so much so that one plant will need quite 
9 square feet to display its full beauty. 

The reddish wood, inherited, perhaps, from 
President, a grand old Tea. and used in this 
ease as pollen parent, and the formidable 
thorns give the Rose under notice a very 
distinctive character. For a good, bold mass, 
few Roses would surpass Countess Cairns. 
It is far superior to Camoens in quality of 
blossom, although, perhaps, scarcely so pro¬ 
ductive; but it is a variety many would pre¬ 
fer to Camoens, seeing that, good individual 
blooms may be had. so very suitable for vase 
work. Countess Cairns makes a fine stan¬ 
dard, the spreading habit already alluded to 
lending itself well to culture in this form. 

Rosa. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Roses for button-holes.- Will you kindly give 
me the names of a few Roses which you consider 
most suitable fur button hole work, to he grown out¬ 
side? My soil is inclined to strong, has been deeply 
trenched and manured, and nil the Roses at present 
on it grow vigorously.—J. Y. H., lVorr«*f<T«h»>e. 

fit is rather fashionable now for gentlemen 
to wear very large blossoms for button-holes, 
but, perhaps, this is more especially the case 
where the blossom has been grown by the 
wearer. But we take it in asking for infor¬ 
mation you mean what are usually under¬ 
stood as button hole varieties. The follow¬ 
ing we can highly recommend, those marked 
with an asterisk being climbing sorts, al¬ 
though. if needed, they may lie grown as 
large bushes; -Gustave Regis. * Francois 
Crousse. Mine. Abel Chntenay. Liberty. 
Betty. Lady Battersea. Climbing Mrs. \Y. j. 
Grant. Richmond, Mine. Iloste, Niphelos. 
Lady Roberts, Anna Ollivier. Frau Karl 
Druschki, "Bouquet d’Or, "Mine. Pierre 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAI6N 


Aucust 21, 1007 


G./1 T! DEWING ILLUSTR/1TED. 


337 



Cochet, *Wm. Allen Richardson, Pharisaer, 
and Killarney. The following are also 
good : Berard, *Mons. Desir, "Will. 

Allen Richardson, *Gardeniu, Dr. J. Camp 
bell Hall, Paul Lede, Antoine Rivoire, Alfred 
K. Williams, Duke of Connaught, Hugh 
Dickson, Victor Hugo, Joseph Hill, Jubilee, 
Mme. Jules Grolez, Mme. Ravary, Mme. 
Antoine Mari, and Papa Gontier.] 

Packing own-root Roses for India 
(Ph. D .).—You do not state whether the cut 
tings which have struck are in pots or in the 
open ground. If they are in pots, the pack¬ 
ing is very simple. As we gather the cuttings 
are of this season’s insertion, it would bo un¬ 
safe to turn the plants out of the pots, be 
cause the ball of soil, which is. doubtless, 
very sandy, would all fall to pieces. It would 
be best to stand the pots upon a bed of wood¬ 
wool or Moss in a small box, and place some 
Moss and pieces of narrow wood, firmly se¬ 
cured, between the rows of plants. The 
plants should be well watered before putting 
them in the box, and then the soil covered 
over with dry Moss. Examination should be 


dry side, and then tied in bundles of five or , 
six, encasing them in two or three folds of 
waterproof paper or good brown paper. 
W1 ion thus encased, they can be laid into a 
box or packed all together in a matted 
bundle. They should be labelled to be kept 
away from heat of boilers. 

Rambler Roses after flowering -I have a lot 
of climbing Rose-trees over wire arches of various 
kinds, such as Crimson Ramblers and Wallflower 
RnTnbler, Gardenia and other climbers, which have 
bloomed well and made a let of wood. Now' they 
have done blooming there is a lot of dead flowers 
all over them. Will you kindly say what treatment 
they should have now, as they look unsightly?— i 
CONSTANT HEADER. 

I It is a good plan to go over tin* plants and > 
cut off all tin* faded trusses, and, at the 
same time, one or two of tin* oldest growths 
should be removed right to the ground. This 
would enable you to tie out the young wood 
made this year, giving the plants a tidy ap¬ 
pearance ; but, what is better still, the shoots 
become well ripened, thus ensuring a good 
display next year.] 

Stems of Rose trees eaten by insects. -Can 
you tell me what insect it is that eats the stems of 


oils display towards the close of July, lasting 
well into the month of August—in fact, 
some years we had several heads of blooms 
quite into September. The lovely pink 
Polyantha blossoms are admired by all who 
see them, and I think all Weeping Roses look 
very much better when planted on the turf. 
This Rose is easily rooted if short, sturdy 
slips—preferably with a heel attached—be 
taken about the end of September and in¬ 
serted in sandy soil either on a west or cast 
border.—J. Mayne. 


ROSE MME. ERNESTINE VERDTER. 
Three are many beautiful Roses that ap¬ 
pear just for a season or two, and then 
vanish, or are, perhaps, eclipsed for the time 
being by some more brilliant sort. In the 
Rose under notice we have a variety far too 
good to lose sight of, and yet I fear it will 
never become much known. It is one of 
those rose-coloured varieties that need to he 
well grown and well established ere their 
good points are discovered. It is a rose after 
the type of Marie d’Orleans, 
which to many individuals is 
anything but attractive; yet 
where is there a sort with a 
hardier constitution than this 
grand old Rose? The flowers 
of Mine. Ernestine Verdier 
are large, varying from clear 
rose to shaded rose in colour. 
As may be seen from the illus¬ 
tration, the form of flower is 
excellent. The word Ernest¬ 
ine should he employed when 
asking for this Rose, as there 
are so many “Verdier ” Roses 
that, if not. careful, the wrong 
one is obtained. Another Rose 
of the character of the one un¬ 
der notice—namely, Christine 
de Noue—has, apparently, 
been crowded out in the same 
way; but 1 remember it when 
it was thought highly of, and 
l believe it would be again 
were it grown to perfection. 
There are some gardens where 
these old Roses are retained, 
and. doubtless, many more 
could be revived were pub¬ 
licity given them. 

Rosa. 


Rose Mme. Ernestine Verdier. 


mode during voyage, so that plants do not. 
sillier through drought, hut the requirements 
of the plants during transit, as far as water 
is concerned, are very limited. The shoots of 
the plants should tie perfoetlv free and in a 
dry condition, and 1-inch holes made in the 
lids and sides of the eases. If the plants 
have been in their pots for some considerable 
time, they may Ik 1 turned out, and the ball of 
earth balled up in Moss or shavings, and 
then laid in the box in layers at one end 
only, taking care (o ke*p the tops of the 
plants perfectly open, and the plants held 
together by the aid of strips of wood. Tf 
the cuttings arc in the open ground it 
would not do to send them out yet; hut in 
October you could have them carefully lifted 
with a small ball of cartli and then mossed up 
rea<ly for laying in a box. There would he 
considerable risk in sending out cuttings 
that have only been struck this season if 
they are in the open ground, and we should 
ail vise you to w ait until they have become 
more firmly' rooted, and send lliem out when 
dormant. Roses from the open ground travel 
well to foreign parts if their roots and shoots 
are enveloped in plenty of Moss rather on the 


Digitized by 


Got. gle 


my Rose-trees? I have enclosed a specimen, and shall 
he very Kind if you ran tell me of any remedy? The 
post, whatever it. is. does not appear to attack the 
leaves, but merely the stem.- M. G. TaYLOR. 

[This trouble is caused l»y the lnrvre of one 
of the saw-flies. If you could have your trees 
carefully examined, you would be enabled to 
catch the depredators. Some soot scattered 
on the surface of the soil would prevent them 
gaining access to the trees, and a good 
syringing with carbolic soap wash would 
tend to drive them away. Use half a bar of 
Lifebuoy soap to three gallons of water. This 
is an excellent remedy both for insect pests 
and for mildew on Rrs?s.] 

Rose Dorothy Perkins. The note from 
the pen of “\V. X.” interests me, as we have 
this Rose on a 5-feet Brier in full flower 
just now* (August 7th). its pendulous shoots 
producing a sight not seen every day. Roses 
grown in this form are usually top-heavy, and 
fo overcome this we had iron stakes an inch 
in diameter made with an adjustable iron 
ring, so that we could tie the main branches, 
and so far this defies the wind. Grown in 
this way, we are obliged to prune rather 
closely, yet, in spite of this, we get a glori- 


Rose Xavier Olibo. — 

“C. M. W.,” on page i29<», 
states that a shoot of this Rose 
is (i feet 0 inches long, and 
flowering nearly its whole 
length. Erom this, and from 
the description of the whole 
hush, 1 should doubt very 
much if the variety be true to 
name. This is a difficult kind 
to grow, and more especially 
as a cut back plant. I have, 
in fact, known nurserymen 
who grow for sale culti¬ 
vate other varieties under the proper 
name, ’so that it, would bo easy to purchase 
“Xavier Olibo 1 ’ and yet not have the true 
variety. Personally, there are few' Roses so 
much admired as this when in good form. 
It has a shape shared only by the varieties 
Victor Hugo and, in a smaller degree, Bon 
Cant, hut in colour (a black maroon) it is 
quite alone. Even in its foliage it is distinct. 
The colour of the leaves is a light green, and 
these are comparatively small. To see it at 
its best the flowers must Ikj from maiden 
plants—that is, these budded the previous 
year, and in cool weather. If one shades, 
and the temperature is at all hot. It. is cer¬ 
tain to scald; then the velvety appearance 
of the petals is gone, and the blossoms hauj 
a dingy look.—H. S. 


“The English Flower Garden and Home 
Gro&nds. New Edition, 10th, revised, with descrip¬ 
tions of all the best pla)its, trees, and shrubs, their 
culture and arrangement, illustrated on wood. Cloth, 
medium #vo, l-'s.; post free, (id. 

“The English Flower Garden” mag also be 
had finely bound in 2 vols., half tvllum, Sbs. nett. Of 
all booksellers. 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 







138 


G.fltttYEMNG ILLUSTRATED. 


August 24, 1507 


ROOM AND WINDOW. 

TABLE DECORATION. 

Would you kindly give me the name and address of 
a paper or book that would give some useful hints on 
table decoration for competition?—A mateur. 

[We are not aware of the existence of a 
book dealing with this subject, which, as a 
rule, is, so far as competitive exhibiting is 
concerned, controlled by the conditions of 
the schedule. Having duly complied with 
these conditions, the rest is a matter of judg¬ 
ment and tasle. Take, as an example, the 
following: ‘ A table, 6 feet by -I feet, laid 
out for dessert for six persons, and arranged 
ho as to show the best means of utilising fruit 
and flowers in its adornment. Taste in ar 
rangeinent will take precedence of costliness 
in the objects/' Such a table should receive 
considerable attention in the matter of fruit 
and the best of seasonable fruits should ap¬ 
pear. Peaches, Strawberries, Cherries, 
Raspberries, Gooseberries, when in season, 
and at other times Apples, Nut*, Oranges, 
Bananas, and the like. Wines, of course, 
should be included. As to flowers, in sum¬ 
mer-time a low-bodied bowl of Roses, such as 
Mine. A. Chatenay or Mrs. Grant, or a simi¬ 
lar bowL of Water Lilies, the blooms neatly 
dropped through their own leafage into the 
water, would be pleasing. The thing to 
avoid to-day is overloading, whether of fruit 
or flowers, and in its stead try simplicity, 
and as much originality as is possible. When 
the competition is for a tabic decoration 
only, the exhibitor will be ngaiu guided by 
the conditions, the breaking of any one of 
which would mean disqualification. Some 
schedules forbid the use of mirrors, for in¬ 
stance, while others forbid the use of silvered 
ornaments, whether as corner-pieces or con¬ 
nected with the vases or epergnes. It is in 
these respects that a competitive display 
differs so much from one arranged on the 
go-as-you-please system at home. In the 
matter of arranging flowers on a table, the 
chief errors arc those of crowding, far too 
much variety, which crentes a meaningless 
jumble; and the difference between arranging 
a table in a dining-room, where it is pos¬ 
sible to harmonise or contrast with the sur¬ 
roundings, and arranging a table for effect 
in a canvas exhibition tent or white-walled 
building, is very great. It is such varying 
circumstances as these that make it impos¬ 
sible to give definite information. A very 
beautiful table may be arranged with cream 
and pale pink Sweet Peas, with a few bits 
of Gvpsophila and a few table trails of 
Smilax. Another table may be made effec¬ 
tive with blue Sweet Peas and other accom¬ 
paniments. A third may be most effectively 
arranged with white Sweet Sultans and crim¬ 
son-scarlet Pelargoniums, and so on. In 
fine, by avoiding the tawdry jumble and exer¬ 
cising that taste which most ladies acquire in 
their personal adornment, a good result may 
usually be secured. Jf you are engaging in 
any comj»etition, you should obtain the 
necessary schedule, and study the conditions 
laid down.—E. J.] 


CHRYSANTHEMUMS. * 

NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Buds developing at the present time 

(S. M. Mai/cock). In reply to your inquiry 
as to whether the buds now forming on the 
following Japanese Chrysanthemums should 
be retained, or the buds pinched out, and a 
later selection mad..* : F. S. Vnllis, Mine. R. 
Oherthur, Viviand Morel, Valerie Green- 
ham. The varieties mentioned arc nil note¬ 
worthy sorts, of exhibition standard, and to 
refrain from retailing the buds at the pre 
sent time would be a fatal mistake to make. 
For your information, ami for the guidance 
of all Chrysanthemum-loving readers of 
Gardening Illustrated, we wish to em¬ 
phasise the fact that the crown-buds develop¬ 
ing at the present time and throughout the 
whole of August, should be retained, when 
ready. As you desire to produce large “and 
handsome flowers, not necessarily for exhi 
bitiou, it is imperative that the buds be re 
tained os soon as possible, and if your plants 
are evolving their buds at. present, yon have 
every reason to li e ple ased, as the ultimate 

Digitized by (jO' glC 


result, will be in every way satisfactory. We 
can quite understand your hesitancy In re 
gard to retaining the buds at the present 
time, but as large, full flowers appears to be 
your aim, and they can only be obtained by 
retaining the buds quite early in the season, 
you will understand why we emphasise the 
importance of retaining the buds as they 
evolve. E. G. 


FRUIT, 

BESTS OK THE STRAW BERRA' BED. 

In the case of Strawberries, few seasons pass 
without some measure of inconvenience and 
loss being imposed by the various pests which 
infest the garden, though in some years this 
is much less than in others. That of 1907 
must, presumably, be counted among those 
which afford a maximum of losses. The rainy 
season invariably provides a full quota of 
slugs, and the present one was noteworthy, 
much fruit lieing wasted in the early days of 
fruit gathering. In some instances this was 
so much felt that the time spent on picking 
seemed almost a waste, so few fruits being fit 
for dessert, with so many quite useless for 
any purpose. In dry weather slugs give but 
little trouble to the ripening crops. In dry 
seasons there are sometimes plagues of 
centipedes (? millipedes), which, though not so 
destructive as the slug, vet spoil quantities of 
otherwise good fruit. T*heir presence, too, in 
gathered fruit makes the mope timidly-in¬ 
clined to shrink from eating them, lest the 
insects should be found secretly lurking 
in an apparently sound berry. Decay through 
contact with the damp soil and strawy cover 
ing is yet. another source of trouble in the 
Strawberrv-bed. I heard some growers com¬ 
plaining that quite f>0 per cent, of the bulk 
of the crops was waste, due to decay and slug 
attacks - a serious matter to anyone, but 
especially to the grower for market. The only 
remedy against this wholesale decay is wire 
hoops so fixed that the berries are carried 
quite clear of the soil. By small growers 
these may be advantageously employed, but 
the cost would debar the larger grower. Slugs 
and centipedes we have always tfi expect, but. 
a pest even worse than these is field mice, 
which, once they set on Strawberries, spoil 
so many. They not only destroy fruit by 
eating the seeds from the surface, but they 
collect the berries into heaps in the beds or 
plots adjacent, presumably for the purpose 
of securing food for later days. Though not 
a natural food for the fi lri mouse, toasted 
cheese is very attractive, and traps baited 
with it may he depended on to lessen their 
numbers. A simple spring device, known as 
the “Little Nipper,” I find an excellent trap 
for the open garden, as this is not so soon 
influenced by weather changes as are the old- 
fashioned box traps. It is not wise to lav 
down poison as a means of exterminating mice 
from the Strawberry quarters. More to be 
dreaded than mica arc rats, for these cer¬ 
tainly are more voracious, and also more 
difficult of capture. Like mice they will 
gather quantities of berries into heaps, not 
in the bed itself, but under anv vegetable crop 
which may adjoin. 1 have been thus vic¬ 
timised this year in the late beds, and much 
fruit was destroyed before the culprits could 
be trapped. Itats do not stay at simply eating 
the seeds from tlie surface, but they devour 
the fruit also. The ever-present blackbird 
and thrush seem to have a claim on I lie 
Strawberry crop. Even in the field they 
assert their prior rights, but in the garden, 
whether that be town or country, nets must 
be used to protect the fruit,.* Those, of 
course, who forbid nest, destruction, suffer 
badly, but whether preserved or not, there is 
always the same necessity for netting the 
beds. Certainly birds are less destructive 
when frequent showers provide them with 
natural food, which, in the case of the birds 
under notice, consists mostly of worms, 
snails, and slugs. Worms many look upqn 
as of no importance, regarded in the light of 
a pest, but, presumably, Ve should complain 
of them more did not birds persistently con 
vert them into food, and thus rid the surface 
of the garden, which is especially important 
when spring crops arc only just emerging 
through the surface. Even transplanted 


Cauliflowers are attractive to the earthworm, 
and may often be found with their heads in 
the worm burrows and their roots in mid-air 
in showery weather. Birds certainly become 
a pest of the Strawberry-bed with recurring 
seasons, demanding the outlay on fish-net¬ 
ting, but there is the satisfaction that, once 
sound nets are well laid, the loss is not so 
much from bird raids. Both the thrush and 
blackbird are very keen, however, in detect¬ 
ing broken meshes, and when choice beds of 
fruit are available it is not well to depend 
on broken nets. Usually the finest and ripest 
fruits are those which attract birds. 

W. 8. 


A TRIAL OF MELONS. 

Possibly, a trial of Melons, howsoever well 
and ably conducted, may have no practical 
value, or, on the other hand, it may have a 
good deal of value. The Melon is a fruit of 
very erratic nature. It is never certain, how¬ 
ever grown, that it will be always good. No 
one variety is more absolutely reliable than 
another, although there are some, such, for 
instance, as Blenheim Orange or Hero of 
Lockinge, of which, if not good, the cause is, 
doubtless, found in bad cultivation. Yet 
even with the beet of cultivation fruits of 
these varieties, as of so many others, vary in 
quality, hence it is possible that a trial of 
Melons, however well done, can have little 
practical value. The trial in question was 
conducted during the present season in the 
R.H.S. gardens, at Wisley, and in a long 
span-house, admirably suited for the purpose, 
the plants, twenty-six in number, each one 
of a distinctly named variety, were planted 
thirteen on each hot-bed of soil, 4 feet apart. 
Every plant did well, having been raised from 
a sowing made during middle of May. At 
the same time, numerous plants were raised 
and planted out in heated pits to test that 
form of culture, but the present notes relate 
to those in the glasshouse alone. 

The varieties grown were Ringleader, Best, 
of All, Al, Empress, Windsor Castle, Super¬ 
lative, Royal Favourite, Sutton’s Scarlet, 
Perfection, Syon Perfection, Gunion Scarlet, 
Supreme, Early Favourite, Golden Perfec¬ 
tion, Win. Tillery, Royal Sovereign, Diamond 
Jubilee, Duchess of York. Triumph, Blen¬ 
heim Orange, Eastern Castle, Best of All 
Second, Frogmore Scarlet., The Countess, 
The Empress Second, and Ross’s Advance. 
The two varieties having similar names came 
from diverse sources. Seventeen of the 
plants carried each four fully developed 
fruits, the rest having three each ; thus there 
were in the house eLose upon one hundred 
fruits, and as they hung formed a very attrac¬ 
tive sight. 

When the fruit committee inspected the 
trial on August 9th, their first act was to 
take stock of the cropping and general growth 
of each plant. Then it was agreed to cut 
and taste fruits of each variety that showed 
ripeness. To have all the varieties matur¬ 
ing fruits at the same time was out of the 
question, and it. was almost remarkable that, 
no less than eighteen should have furnished 
Hints ripe, or nearly so. But a Melon is best 

that is. gives its highest flavour at just 
the time when it is fully ripe, and neither 
over nor under. Thus some fruits gave flavour 
in a high degree, others in u lesser degree, 
and th.* condition of ripeness had much to do 
with the results. To have tested each one 
properly, no doubt the tasting should be suc¬ 
cessive every other day. until the latest of all 
was quite ripe. However, the result as found 
on the 9th were of white flesh Melons, the 
richest flavoured, and, indeed, singularly rich 
and delicious was it, was Diamond Jubilee, 
undoubtedly the best, just then of the whole 
batch. The next best of the white flesh 
varieties wes Countess, also very excellent. 
Seeing that generally scarlet and green flesh 
varieties usually furnish the highest flavour, 
it was rather a surprise to find in this case 
the best in white flesh Melons. Of scarlet 
flesh varieties Sutton’s Scarlet was specially 
good, the flesh thick and soft. Blenheim 
Orange and Empress were also excellent, and 
of green flesh varieties an old one, William 
Tillery, that has been in commerce some 
thirty years, was wry rich, and so also was 
Windsor Castle, Eastnor Castle, and Ross’s 

UNI V Lr. jI % f U LLINUIjMI 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


August 24, 1907 


GARDENING ILL UST RATED. 


339 


Advance ; whilst Ringleader was very good, , 
though fit ill unripe. First-class certificates 
were awarded to Diamond Jubilee and Sut- 1 
ton’s Scarlet. Similar awards made to | 
Countess, Blenheim Orange, and William 
Tillery long since, were confirmed, and 
awards of merit given to Eastnor Castle, 
Advance, and Empress. Perfection, with 
green, round fruit, gave the handsomest 
samples, Royal Sovereign coming next. 


FRONTIGNAN GRAPES. 

It is to l>e regretted that this class of Grape 
appears to be going out of cultivation, or 
nearly eo. In several large gardens where 
they were formerly well grown and highly 
appreciated, they are now conspicuous by 
their absence, having given place to showier 
and inferior flavoured varieties. The fashion 
in Grapes seems to be now for such kinds as 



Grape Frontignan. 


Later fruits will be tasted at Vincent-square 
on the 20th inst. A. D. 


Strawberry Pillbasket.— This .1 grew for the 
first time last year. This year the crop is enormous, 
the berries many above medium size, foliage not too 
coarse. The flavour is good, resembling slightly that 
of British Queen. Its only disadvantage is that the 
berries are too pale in colour, especially near the 
point. Ho good is it that I intend extending it. It is 
said by some to be u mid-season kind, but with me 
it is certainly late, coming in with Latest of All, 

J. Crook, Forde Abbey. 

Digitized I 


make the mast imposing display on the din¬ 
ner-table. Alicante, Gros Colman, Gros 
Maroc, etc., have a magnificent appearance, 
but no one will dispute that each and all are 
infinitely inferior to well grown Frontignans; 
even Muscat of Alexandria is closely run by 
Grizzly Frontignan in flavour. It is easy to 
understand the most striking Grapes being 
grown lor market, but for home use quality 
ought to stand first, ami all fruit sent to the 
table should lie of superior flavour. No lady 



or gentleman who has well-ripened Frontig¬ 
nans (the variety may be Black, White, or 
Grizzly) sent in for use will ever grumble at 
the gardener for such Grapes. Many of our 
younger gardeners have no knowledge of this 
excellent class, proving how uncommon they 
are in our gardens, and they are never shown 
at any of our fruit exhibitions. All the Fron- 
tignans are easily grown, but if only one 
variety is planted, 1 should give the prefer¬ 
ence to Grizzly Frontignan, as it produces 
the largest bunches, is a good cropper, and 
one of the richest flavoured Grapes in culti 
vat ion. Both the Black and the White Fron- 
tignans are highly flavoured, and put. on a 
pleasing and good colour if skilfully culti 
vated, while they will also keep well. The 
White Frontignan (syn. Muscat hlanc), here 
figured, will succeed well in any vinery, but, 
when grown in a warm house, the flavour is 
richer. It will ripen well in a cool-house, as 
was the case in the R.H.S. Gardens, at 
Chiswick, and in favourable seasons 1 have 
, seen it good on the open wall. These Grapes 
] do not require the deep rich borders made 
I for grosser-growing Grapes. Borders made 
principally of good turfy loam, mortar rubbish, 
I with some crushed bones added, answer well, 
j The roots run freely in this. The Vines 
| should be planted inside, and be allowed to 
go outside or inside, at will. T. 


GOOSEBERRIES. 

Very considerable is the debt owing to the 
well-known firm of Jas. Veitch and Sons for 
the remarkable exhibit of Gooseberries they 
make at an autumn meeting of the Royal 
Horticultural Society each year. There is 
probably no other firm in the kingdom that can 
show at one time fruits of some 150 varieties, 
or where almost any well known variety can 
be obtained. It was such an exhibition set*n 
at a recent meeting at Vincent-square, West¬ 
minster, which not only secured a gold medal, 
but enabled all interested in the Gooseberry 
who saw it to select the varieties they most 
wish to grow, whether red, yellow, green, 
or white, whether large or small. Let anv 
reader imagine a table 3 feet in width and 
50 feet long. As a background, closely 
stood, were cordon-trained Gooseberries, 
and just a few Currants in pots, the plants 
ranging from 30 inches to 40 inches in 
height, and consisting of single, double, 
treble, and quadruple steins or cordons, all 
hard-pruned or spurred, and each stem 
densely laden with fine fruit of whatever 
variety it might be. The colours of fruit 
were intermingled, thus giving to the plants 
a pleasing mixture. In front were the 
picked fruits, neatly placed in baskets, each 
one having a raised centre, the berries being 
laid elese together, thus forming a perfect 
dish. In this ease, again, no two varieties 
similar in appearance were close together. 
Not only is there enough variety in size, 
but there arc also in smooth and hairy, round 
and long, pallid and deep, hues enough to 
supply ample variety. Of large, red-berried 
varieties, very fine indeed, were Forester, 
Bollen Hall, Lord Derby, Dan’s Mistake, 
and Lion’s Provider, these being of the 
prize Gooseberry section ; also those famous 
market varieties. Crown Boh, Whinham’s 
Industry, and Lancashire Lad; and for gene¬ 
ral culture no three reds can excel these 
where large unripe berries are desired. Of 
small, rich-flavoured varieties, the best were 
Red Warrington, Scotch Nutmeg, Cham¬ 
pagne, and Ironmonger. These two 
last are probably of the host flavoured in 
cultivation. Of pale colours, the best small- 
fruited varieties for flavour were Green 
Hedgehog, Early Sulphur, Langley Gage, 
and Rumbullion. Where Gooseberries are 
grown on walls or flat-trained on trellises to 
produce dessert fruits, these varieties should 
always be included. Of large forms, yellow, 
green, and white, Leveller, High Sheriff, 
Whitesmith, Langley Beauty, Golden Beauty, 
Leader, and Lady Haughton were very fine, 
the fruits clean and handsome, and, though 
large, very nice and refreshing to eat. Re¬ 
markable as was the display of picked fruits, 
it was unfortunate that, because of the holi¬ 
day time, so few persons saw it, yet the pot, 
flat-trained, or single-cordon hushes seemed 
the most striking feature, and probably had 
theyj l^een more seen, would ha\je presented 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 







540 


GAUD KXJ.iYG 111 USTfiATET). 


August 24, 1907 


a revelation as to the best wav to grow 
Gooseberries to secure fine, clean, well- 
ripened fruits. Added to the Gooseberries 
were a few baskets of black, red, and white 
Currants, and also cordons, in pots, heavily 
fruited. Generally, these were loss attrac¬ 
tive than the Gooseberry plants, but the fruit 
on them was fine and clear. Of reds, the 
best were La Versaillaise and Warner’s 
Grape, which seemed to be the same as Red 
Cherry. The best blacks were Boskoop 
Giant, Baldwin, and Black Naples. The 
first named of these certainly carries the 
finest fruits of black Currants yet seen, and 
should he universally grown. The only 
white Currant in biwdi form was White Dutch, 
Imt the finest, picked fruit was that of the* 
cut leaved Dutch, a variety that seems to he 
little known and grown, vet is the best white 
Currant in cultivation. Wo saw this many 
years ago in a collection of Currants in 
the Royal Horticultural Gardens, Chiswick, 
when it excelled the other whites materially 
for the fineness and abundance of its fruit. 

A. D. 


THE GOOSEBERRY-CATERPILLAR. 

Two or three years ago ray Gooseberries and Currants were 
eaten up by caterpillars. 1 found in this case that 
soot had a marked effect, and I had none last year. 
They seem, however, to have begun again, slightly, 
to attack tiie trees during this summer. I suppose 
there is no kinship between the Onion-maggot and 
the t'ooseberry caterpillar?—C lemens. 

[There is not the least connection between 
fin Onion-maggot and the Goose be rry-cater- 
piilar. They are of very diverse species. 
When only alight attacks are seen, many of 
the insects may he hand-picked off. It is also 
well on such bushes to gather all the fruit, 
and at once dust bushes heavily with soot 
or lime, as the caterpillars will not eat leaves 
so coated; or, if preferred, a solution of 
Paris green or Hellebore powder, well mixed 
with water, may be sprayed on. These dress¬ 
ings are poisonous, and should not l>e applied 
to hushes carrying fruit unless the fruit be 
well washed when gathered and dried before 
using it. One drastic dressing of this de¬ 
scription often frees bushes from these pests 
for a long time. The caterpillar moth is known, 
because its wings are white, spotted with 
black, as the magpie-moth. It. may be seen 
hovering over bushes during July and August, 
and deposits its eggs on the leaves, and later 
these become tiny caterpillars, or loopers. 
In the spring they feed cm the young leaves, 
and, when full grown, towards the end of 
May, enter the chrysalis stage, emerging 
again as moths in July, to commence the egg- 
laying. 

Some good is done when the leaves fall by 
sweeping them up and burning them ; also bv 
removing some 3 inches of the surface soil 
from beneath the bushes in the winter, wheel¬ 
ing it away and burying it into a trench, re¬ 
placing it with fresh soil from the vegetable 
quarters. In that way numbers of the cater¬ 
pillars are got rid of. It is wise when the 
hushes are pruned or thinned to collect the 
trimmings and to burn these also. Dress the 
surface soil heavily with soot to wash in, as 
that again helps to kill the caterpillars.] 


NOTES ANI) REPLIES. 

Mildewed Strawberries —Would you kindly ex- j 
plain the cause of my entire Strawberry-bed going as ' 
per enclosed sample, and will the plants he likely to 
he affected next, year? The tied was formed two 
years ago. The plants are growing vigorously with 
a heavy'crop. They are in full_ sunshine, hut we had 
months of constant rain in the early summer. Your 
assistance would greatly oblige.—D. I. 

[Your Strawberries are suffering from a 
very bad attack of mildew, a trouble which has 
been found largely this year in the south as 
well as in the north, arising from the con¬ 
stant rains, sunless skies, and very low' tem¬ 
perature. It is known as Sphcprotheca 
limn id is. Once the fruit, is attacked there is 
no chance of saving the crop. Prior to its 
(spreading to the fruit and when it is oil the 
leaves only, spray with a solution com¬ 
posed of 1 oz. of carbonate of copper and 
. r > oz. carbonate of ammonia, dissolved in a 
quart of hot water, then mixed with 16 gal¬ 
lons of water. Of course, when such solu¬ 
tions are employed, whilst two or three dress¬ 
ings may tie needed to cheek the mildew', it is 
doubtful whether it would be safe to eat the 


fruits. You should get fresh plants of an 
earlier variety, notably Royal Sovereign, 
from a source that is quite free from mildew, 
and plant on fresh soil that is thrown up in 
the form of a rounded bed. The old breadth 
had best be chopped off and buried.] 

Decayed Nectarines. -Enclosed is one of many 
Early Rivers Nectarines, in a cool orchard-house, 
which rot at the eye before ripening. 1 should be 
glad if you would tell me the cause of this?— 

F. S. \V. S. 

[Your Nectarine reached us in an entirely 
rotten, wet state, and could not be 
examined. No doubt it has suffered from an 
attack of what is known as Peach-rot, a 
tiouhle by no means common, and. probably, 
is caused, in your case, by the ore hard-bouse | 
in which the tree is producing the fruit being 
kept too close and moist, and having regard 
to the low temperature which has prevailed, 
the lack of isunshine, and frequent rains, the 
need for some artificial warmth in helping 
to dry the air of the house has been much 
evidenced. If all the fruits on the tree are 
similarly affected, they had best be gathered 
and the tree well sprayed with Bordeaux mix¬ 
ture, or be heavily dusted with sulphur, blown 
in pow’der form over the leaves by the aid of 
a Maalbeck bellows. At the same time, 
give the orchard-house all possible ventila¬ 
tion.] 

Fruit-tree for north border.— On a north wall, 
about 7 feet high, in a suburban garden, I have at 
present some Morello Cherries, which bear very well, 
fruit of excellent quality. One of the trees, however, 
has been gradually dying otr. and this year the 
effort to fruit proved too great, and it succumbed. 
What is the most suitable fruit-tree oilier than a 
Cherry to replace it? Is there any Pear that would 
give satisfactory return in such n position, or would 
an Apple be more likely to be successful? The soil 
is light.—Sl’BI RBAN AMATEPR. 

[For planting against a north wall io re¬ 
place your dead Morello Cherry, you may 
select either a Victoria Plum, which, in 
fruiting later than on a west wall generally 
does very well ; or, if you prefer a Pear, 
plant Louise Bonne of Jersey, as we have 
often seen that excellent variety doing well 
on a north aspect. If you prefer an Apple, 
then plant for dessert Allington Pippin or j 
James Greive, or for kitchen use Lord Gros 
venor. Naturally, the chances of getting any i 
of these trees to do well depends on average 
temperature. Also whether the wall on the [ 
south side gets much sunshine. When such 
is the case, and the mass of brickwork be¬ 
comes warm, trees on the north aspect greatly 
benefit. Before planting on the old site, re¬ 
move the original soil and replace with fresh 
soil.] 

Raising Nectarines from seed As a very old 
subscriber to your valuable paper, I should like to 
ask. through its medium, wli.it is the best way of ; 
raising seedling Nectarines? ] have beard of wonder¬ 
ful results being obtained, and, as I have some very 
good kinds, should like to increase them. Is it best 
to put the kernel at. once into the ground or should 
it be dried first? Also should it be cut or cracked I 
in sonic way, or soaked, or has the internal nut 
enough strength to force its way through? I should 
be very glad of an answer to these quest ions. -Casti.e- 
tow ns hen n. 

[The b?st way to raise Nectarines from 
seed is to sow the latter singly in small pots 
in January next, and place them in warmth 
to germinate. Put the stones in the soil 
about half the depth of the pots, without any 
preparation, such as cracking, this being 
quite unnecessary. When germination takes 
place, and the plants have filled the pots 
with roots, give them a shift into pots two or 
three sizes larger, and grow them on in 
Peach-house or a house similarly heated, 
and, if all. goes well, they will make good 
sized trees the. first season. The usual and 
the most satisfactory way of testing the 
merits of seedling fruits of this description is 
to hud them on the Mussel or Brompton 
stocks (Plums), as fruit, can lie obtained 
much more quickly by tin's method than from 
the seedling tree itself. You must, there¬ 
fore. be prepared with tlie necessary number 
of stocks on which to hud the needling varie¬ 
ties you wish to test, and have them ready 
so that the budding can be pei formed in 
July, 1909. The stocks may be potted or 
planted at. the foot of a wall, outside, just, 
whichever may he most convenient, or ac¬ 
cording to the form you wish the trees to 
assume. If you desire to grow them as 
orchard house trees, then adopt the method 
first suggested, as you will then obtain fruit 
one season in advance over outdoor culture. 


Another way would he to bud them on the 
two-year old wood of a permanent tree, or 
trees, when fruil may be looked for, if the 
operation is successful and growth satisfac¬ 
tory, the following season. With regard to 
the seeds or stones, wash them thoroughly 
clean, dry them, and keep them in a cool, dry 
place until the time arrives for sowing. The 
above are a few general directions as to the 
raising of Nectarines, and, although it is 
quite possible to raise a superior variety by 
tneso means, we think it only right to point 
out that those who make the raising of seed¬ 
ling fruits a business, or an adjunct theieto, 
do not proceed oil such haphazard lines, and 
oven then it «»ft u happens that the |>ereeiit- 
age of successes obtained is very small in¬ 
deed. and sometimes the results are abso¬ 
lutely nil. By this you will see that the re¬ 
sults to be obtained are not by any means of 
such a hopeful character as you have been 
led to believe, and although we have no wish 
to discourage you, think it only just to point 
out that the raising of seedling fruits is some¬ 
what in the nature of a lottery.] 

Blighted fruit-trees —Will yon kindly inform 
me what is best to do with my fruit-trees, many of 
which are troubled with blight in the spring of the 
year, directly after the young leaves appear? They 
seem to bloom, but the blight attacks the trees to 
the extent that the fruit dwindles away, and drops 
otr. Sample of blight enclosed. It occurred to me 1 
might do something to the trees in the winter to 
prevent this.—II. K., i'aljord. 

[It is evident your fruit Plums especially 
—are in a bad way, and need drastic treat¬ 
ment, As it is, you might, do something to 
help kill the insects infesting the trees did 
you make up a solution of Quassia chips and 
Tobacco, the safest to use whilst trees are in 
leaf. GeL 4 oz. of Quassia chips, soak all 
night, in a gallon of boiling water. Also £ lb. 
of Tobacco serve in the same.way. A pound 
of soft soap may be dissolved in a third 
gallon of hot water. Strain and mix the 
three solutions, add ten gallons of water, 
then spray the trees with it, using an Abol 
spraying syringe. Of course, if there be 
l vegetables under the trees, this solution 
I would spoil them. In the winter spray the 
| trees twice, at intervals of a month, with the 
I caustic alkali solution. Half a pound each 
of caustic soda and crude potash, dissolved 
j in six gallons of water, and sprayed on to the 
1 trees whilst almost boiling hot. In doing 
this, wear old clothes and leather glove-, 
and take care the spray does not blow back 
on to the face.] 

Strawberries on light soil. On opening 
my Gardening Illustrated for July i!7th, 

I wan pleased to see “A. I).’a” note on the 
trials at Wisley. At the outset he dispels 
the notion that. Strawberries cannot lx 1 grown 
on light soil. I should not choose a light 
soil for Strawberries; still, no one need be 
deterred from growing Strawberries on such 
if the right kinds are grown and proper treat 
nient given. Having had a soil of this kind 
in North Hants for many years, 1 agree with 
all “A. D.” says. Since I came to the west, 
to a much heavier soil, 1 often think I do 
not obtain the heavy crops l used to from a 
light soil. It may be the plants are not so 
cuddling. I am doubtful if it pays to allow' 
Strawberries in any soil lo remain over three 
years. Certainly not in a general way in 
private gardens. I shall never forget tin* 
line crops 1 used to have from a light soil of 
Oscar, Viscountess If. de Tinny, and Keen’s 
Seedling, and I have seen on a light soil in 
West Norfolk the finest crop’s of Alice Maude, 
President, and LaGio’sc Sucree 1 have ever 
seen. In these light soils l found the chief 
I thing was to work deeply into tlic soil in 
autumn plenty of manure. T used to collect 
all green refuse, lawn Grass, etc., using it to 
help out the manure.—J. C. 

Raspberries in poor condition -I notice a 
query on ttie above subject on p. 27G. Has your 
correspondent taken pains to ascertain if it is the 
work of the larvie of a small moth, known, I be 
lieve, as Lampronia mbit Ha? Some seasons ago 1 
wondered why many of the shoots of my Raspberries 
were drooping, nnd ori close examination I found a 
tiny hole at the base of the shoot, the insect- being 
found at varying distances from the base as it had 
eaten its way in. It is bright red in colour, and 
rattier over an eighth of an inch in length. All 
shoots so affected should lie removed nnd burned, 
and, as a preventive for another season, it is well 
to remove, say, an inch of the surface soil all 
round tin- stools as soon as the pruning is done, 
replacing this with a mulching of two parts stiff 
soil and one of cow niautire.- K. Bi rkell. 


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UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAI6N 



August 21, 1907 


GARDENING IL L USTRATED. 


311 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 

BERBERIS NEI’ALENSIH. 

This is hardy in the more favoured districts 
of Euglar.d, while in many others it will puss 
through most winters with little or no injury, 
but if the foliage is at all seared a good deal 
of its beauty is lost. When planted out in a 
cool conservatory with ample space allowed 
for the full development of its handsome 
leaves, the Nepaulese Barberry forms a very 
striking feature, whose beauty is still further 
enhanced when erow’ned with a profusion of 
olden-yellow blossoms. Its usual season of 
looming is during the early months of the 
year, and at that time the brightlv-coloured 
blossoms are especially valuable, while they 


needed will be to keep it watered when neces¬ 
sary till the young plants make their appear¬ 
ance. When sufficiently advanced, they may 
be potted off, and as soon as established in 
pots planted out, or they may be planted 
direct from the seed pots. Seeds can. of 
course, be sown in the open ground, but in 
that case germination is usually very irregu¬ 
lar. Even when protected by a frame, while 
some seeds will come up during the summer 
after sowing, others will often not start till 
the following season. Propagation other than 
that by means of seeds may, where a plant 
has pushed up suckers (which it occasionally 
will), be effected by detaching 60 tne of the 
weaker suckers with a few attendant roots, 
but this is, as a rule, not a very satisfactory 
method, as the suckers seldom have roots suf- 



Berberis nepalensis, From a photograph in Mr. Chambers' garden, lloslemere. 


also possess an agreeable fragrance. Being 
almost hardy, this Barberry is very useful 
for planting in structures where the heating 
accommodation is somewhat, limited. 


i ficient to enable them to survive the severe 
check. 


XOTES A X D REPLIES. 


Propagation is usually effected by means 
of seeds, which in some districts ripen 
readily. When the berries are thoroughly 
ripe, which will not he till towards autumn, 
the seed should be taken out and sown at 
once. The soil used should be principally 
loam, lightened, if necessary, by a little sancl 
and well-decayed leaf-mould. Whether sown 
in pots, pans, or boxes, proper drainage must 
be ensured, and the soil pressed down mode¬ 
rately firm to within about half an inch of the 
rim. On this the seed may be sown, and 
covered with about a quarter of an inch of 
soil. It may then be placed invan ordinary 
garden frame, and all tlV^Wilbi* uftimliVui 


Grubs on Copper Beech — 1 shall be grattfu! if 
you will tell me what is wrong with the two leaves 
enclosed—Weeping Copper Beech and Nectarine? 
The latter is in a greenhouse, where it has grown for 
the last twelve years. Having been away from home 
during the last four winters, l fear it may not have 
had sufficient watering during my absence.—F. L. C. 

[The little upright growths on the leaf of 
your Copper Beech-trees are formed by the 
grubs of a small fly belonging to the genus 
Horomyia. I forget the specific names, and 
I am away from my books. I do not think 
you need be the least afraid that the tree will 
in any way suffer from this insect. The Nec¬ 
tarine leaf is attacked by a fungus (Cercospora 
circumcissa). Pick off and burn the diseased 


leaves, and collect nnd burn any which have 
fallen. Remove and replace with fresh soil 
the surface of the bed to the depth of an inch 
when all the leaves have fallen. Next sea¬ 
son spray the tree with a non ammoniacal 
solution of carbonate of copper when the 
leaves are expanding, and afterwards three 
or four times at intervals of a fortnight. Do 
not use Bordeaux mixture.—G. S. S.] 
Eucalyptus ficifolia. —Perhaps, the most 
interesting subject brought before the floral 
committee of the Royal Horticultural Society 
on August 6th, was some flowering brandies 
of the Eucalyptuses, are white, or whitish, 
certificate was bestowed. Though the genus 
Eucalyptus consists of about 150 species, this 
is the first that has received such an award, 
for most of them are usually regarded in the 
light rather of timber producing trees than 
ornamental flowering ones. The species 
under notice is a native of Western Aus¬ 
tralia, where it is said seldom to exceed 
50 feet in height, being thus quite a pigmy 
compared with some other members of the 
genus. The dark green leaves, leathery in 
texture, have obtained for it the specific 
name of ficifolia, but its most notable feature 
is the colour of the blossoms, which, in most 
of the Eucalyptuses, are white, or whitish, 
whereas in E. ficifolia the long filaments, 
which make up the centre of the flower (a 
feature common to many other members of 
the Myrtle family), are bright, glowing scar¬ 
let. Judging by the sprays shown, the 
flowers are freely borne—that is, when the 
tree has attained sufficient size. Like most 
of the other kinds of Eucalyptus, except the 
Blue Gum (E. globulus), this red-flowered 
species is by no means common. It was sent 
out as a new plant bv the late Mr. William 
Bull, of Chelsea, in 1882. In most parts of 
England it requires glass protection, but is 
hardy in tlie favoured parts of the south¬ 
west.—X. 

Mespilus grandiflora.— There is no lack of 
trees capable of lighting up a garden in spring 
with their beautiful blossoms, but there are 
comparatively few that carry their flowering 
season into summer. Among these few one 
of the finest, and, moreover, one of the least 
common, is Mespilus grandiflora, which is, 
probably, as well known by the name of M. 
Smithi as that of M. grandiflora. It is a 
medium sized tree, growing about 20 feet high 
in this country, and forming a smoothly- 
rounded, wide-spreading head. About the 
end of May and first weeks of June it is 
covered with a profusion of large, snow-white 
blossoms, which, contrasted with the large, 
deep green foliage, are highly ornamental. 
The general aspect and habit of the tree ad¬ 
mirably fit it for planting singly on lawns, 
on which it never looks untidy. It is quite 
as hardy as M. germaniea, the common Med¬ 
lar. It is generally propagated by grafting it 
on some of the commoner kinds of Crataegus, 
a genus to which it is closely related—so 
closely, in fact, that some have actually 
classed it with the Thorns. There are some 
fine specimens of this tree in several parts of 
the country which must have been planted 
many years ago, when the love of tree-plant¬ 
ing was more general than it is at present. 
There are some fine specimens of this in gar¬ 
dens round London. The native country of 
this Medlar was long a matter of doubt, but 
Boissier, in the “Flora Orientals,” states 
that its native habitat is the Western Cau¬ 
casus, at high elevations. 

The Birch in the pleasure ground.— The 
note on the above subject in q. recent number 
of Gardening is very interesting, and em¬ 
phasises a fact that every tree-lover will en¬ 
dorse. 1 know more about trees and shrubs 
in their natural state than on canvas, and 
do not profess to be an art critic, hut, to my 
thinking, there are few lovelier bits of land¬ 
scape than MacWhirter’s “Three Graces” 
—the background, the rough track, and the 
Fern all beautifully clone, and yet all sub¬ 
servient to the three Birches that stand out 
so prominently, and with every detail so 
clearly defined" The same tree is introduced 
in many of his pictures, and I take it there 
are few" artists that have rendered it so abso¬ 
lutely life-like. Whpn, clearing away a big, 
old break of Laurel and common Rhododen¬ 
dron close to the lake some years ago, I 
came upon two or three well-grown young 




342 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED ■ 


August 24, 1907 


Birches that were smothered with the shrubs 
and seedling Sycamores. When both the 
latter were cleared away and the space was 
sown down three of the Birches were left. 
They have developed wonderfully since they 
were freed, ancl, as seen from the other side 
of the lake, are a very interesting feature. 
On a common, many acres in extent, not far 
from here, I noticed lately the young Birches 
had made their appearance in thousands, and 
were aLready showing well above the under¬ 
growth of Gorse, Fern, and Heather. They 
will, doubtless, be left, just as they are. and 
cut presently for faggot-wood. I thought of 
“The Three Graces” when 1 saw them, and 
what a lovely subject a few nice specimens 
would furnish dotted about among the- rich 
undergrowth.—E. Burrell, Claremont . 

The Flowering Ash (Fraxinus Ornua).— 
This, a native of the south of Europe, is a 
small or medium-sized tree, in general char¬ 
acter like the Ash, but less vigorous in 
growth. The principal distinctive character 
from whence the name is derived—is the 
large open plume like panicles of flowers, 
which are of a greenish-white colour, very 
sweet scented, and borne in great profusion 
about the end of May. Like the common 
Ash. the European Ornus succeeds best in 
pretty good soil, amt in a moderately moist 
rather than a very dry situation. When 
young, it is of regular outline, and blooms so 
freely even when about 15 feet high that the 
plant is thickly studded, and the scent is ap¬ 
parent for some distance around the tree dur¬ 
ing sunshine. The habit of the tree alters 
with age, ns it then assumes a far more open 
character, like the common Ash. 


VEGETABLES. 

SI’INAC'H. 

Although not everyone's vegetable, yet 
Spinach, containing much that is good for 
the blood, should be eaten by amende people. 
It is useless to sow large breadths during 
summer, as it runs to flower so quickly, but 
towards the end of July and during the suc¬ 
ceeding month two or three sowings should 
be made, so that a supply can be gathered 
during winter and early spring. Sparc 
ground will now be found, such as has borne 
mid-season Peas, or Potatoes ; this, if given 
a thin scattering of lime and soot, and forked 
hack deeply, will form a good rooting medium 
for Spinach. Either tread or run a light 
roller over tlie piece before raking down, and 
draw out shallow drills, 15 inches apart, and 
if the soil is any way dry, give the drills a 
watering previous to sowing the seed, or very 
little of it will come through. Should the 
weather be showery, as the seedlings appear, 
prevent slugs from devouring them by dust¬ 
ing lightly with lime and soot alternate even¬ 
ings, and do not be in too great a hurry to 
give the final thinning if they are trouble¬ 
some, 6 inches to 8 inches asunder being a 
good distance for the plants to stand eventu¬ 
ally! As soon as the lines can be seen, run 
the flat hoe between, and repeat this opera¬ 
tion at short intervals, as it promotes growth 
as well as kills or checks seedling weeds. 
There are several varieties—or, at any rate, 
different names—but T find the ordinary 
Round seed or summer Spinach to stand quite 
as well as the Prickly or winter variety. Seed 
sown the end of July should produce a grand 
crop of leaves for plucking throughout the 
autumn, thus the crop for mid-winter and 
early spring can be left intact for a time. 
One year T lost a fine break of this by a 
grub eating off the plants below the surface, 
so that seed ought not to be sown where it. 
is known those enemies n bound. Such 
ground ought to have a dressing of gas-lime 
in the autumn, and lie idle until late spring. 

Devonian. 


NOTES AND TIEPTAES. 

Feas in a greenhouse. I have a im-enhou.se, 
Uni feet Ioiiji by 2u feet broad I purpose this winter 
filling it with Peas. Please tell me when and what 
kind to sow, how to prepare ground, whether the 
plants will require constant watering and syringing, 
whether heat should be put on (this latter is an ex¬ 
pensive item), and, finally, if it will pay? Frcst now 
and then gets into the house.—F. J. G. 


or 


[Whether the Peas vou refer t 
Sweet, the pla^fs^Hyake 


er to are 

\& 


are edible 


unhealed greenhouse during the winter.»We, 
however, suppose that you refer to edible 
Peas. We assume that you have no stages 
or shelves iti the house, but simply an earth 
floor, and as the house is ‘JO feet, wide and 
100 feet long, you must reserve a footpath at 
least. 2 feet wide down the centre. That 
would leave you borders on either side 9 feet 
wide. Those you should have dressed with a 
moderate coat of half-decayed stable-manure, 
then deeply dig. so as to thoroughly mix the 
manure with the soil. Get that done so soon 
as convenient. Probably, you can hardly 
have a better variety to sow than Daisy, 

2 feet in height, sowing the seed thinly in 
drills 2 feet apart, crosswise. You should 
be able to furnish sticks or some other sup¬ 
ports when the plants are 9 inches in height. 
Sow middle of October, first giving the 
ground a free dusting with soot. Liberal 
waterings will be needed in the spring, when 
bloom and podding begins, and occasional 
syringing*. As to whether paying, that de¬ 
pends on culture, and,* if a good crop, get 
ting a good market.] 

Dwarf Kidney Beans. There is this sea 
son an extensive trial of these so-called 
French Beans in the Wisley Gardens, but 
not, generally, a good one, the cold weather 
having checked growth, the. position of the 
trial being rather exposed. It is interesting 
to note, however, that no matter how good 
may be newer varieties, of the. Wisley 
trial the best grow n rows are of Surrey Pro¬ 
lific ; yet. not only are these Dwarf Beans less 
in request than formerly, hut few care to 
grow of them other than the old varieties, 
Ne Plus Ultra. Negro, and Canadian Won¬ 
der. That is all the more odd when in nearly 
all other vegetables, especially pod pro 
ducers. new varieties seem quickly to elbow 
out older outs. Another factor in producing 
this comparative indifference to Dwarf Beans 
is the climbing section * of smooth podded 
Beans, of which Canadian Wonder, nr Ten¬ 
der and True, and Epicure are popular varie¬ 
ties. A good, well-staked row of one or more 
of these climbers gives Beans over a long 
season, thus rendering frequent sowings un¬ 
necessary. -A. D. 

Ripe and unripe fruits and vegetables. 

The sharp boy who confused an old physician 
in quoting Cucumbers as being eaten green 
and unripe, might, very well have added 
Green Peas and Beaus as being always con¬ 
sumed in an unripe state. So also, often, 
are Marrows, Onions, Gooseberries, Apples, 
and Plums. Really, through the art of rook¬ 
ing many vegetable products which ordi¬ 
narily consumed uncooked would be harm 
fill, become excellent food when cooked. 
After all, we owe very much to the cooking 
art, and next to the productive art is that 
which by rendering otherwise objection¬ 
able food soft, digestible, and nutritious, en¬ 
ables us to live cheaply and in health. Per¬ 
haps, of all products consumed unripe, the 
Cucumber is the least digestible, but Green 
Peas and Beans, and unripe Potatoes, are 
excellent food, and very digestible. Some 
vegetable food, notably Senkale, Celery, Let¬ 
tuce, Endive, Chicory, and others, are made 
excellent food also bv the process of blanch¬ 
ing. an old art. and necessarily associated I 
with culture.—D. 

Tomato Carter's Sunrise.— Much has been 
written in favour of this variety, and cer¬ 
tainly when 1 first saw it growing I thought it 
an ideal kind for market. After growing it 
for two seasons, I feel inclined to go back 
upon other sorts; for instance, Holmes’ 
Supreme. Sunrise bears rather small pro¬ 
duce, unless in maiden soil, when the growtli 
gets very strong; and it is a light-weighing 
Tomato two faults, from a grower’s point of 
view. I find that buyers generally do not 
earc so much for a perfectly-formed variety 
as they do for a good-flavoured one that can 
be bought at as low a figure as possible. One 
should, therefore, grow a heavy cropping, 
solid, but not too large, variety, to pay b«st. 
H. S. ’ 

Shallots. —-An interesting feature concern¬ 
ing the Shallot is that it is so widely and, in¬ 
deed, apparently in this country, so univer¬ 
sally grown. It is a rare thing to find a cot¬ 
tage garden or an allotment in which there 
are not some Shallots. The variety known 


both as Large Jersey and the Russian seems 
most in favour; indeed, it is by far the most 
widely grown. The old Nut Brown variety, 
certainly the best flavoured and best fitted 
for use or pickling, is much more seldom 
seen, whilst the White form is still less so. 
I have noticed tins latter form, when bulbs 
are good, find more favour with judges than 
do bulbs of the Large Red. These, whilst 
large, are too seldom of good shape or hand¬ 
some. My own taste favours the old or 
Nut-Brown bulbs, and whilst these arc never 
large, they are almost invariably handsome. 
After all. Shallots should be exhibited iu 
clusters, and not as picked bulbs. D. 

GARDEN WORK. 

Conservatory. Look well after the hard- 
wooded plants outside. If neglected they 
die, but in watering judgment is necessary. 
In a showery time many think plants in pots 
outside will get enough, but the showers, 
even when heavy, do not reach the. bottom 
routs. Mignonette should be grown freely. 
This is sometimes sown iu small pots aad 
shifted on into 5 inch pots, leaving one strong 
plant in the centre. The soil must be sub¬ 
stantial and firm for Mignonette. Stand the 
pots iu a freely ventilated frame. Sow the 
seeds thinly, ami ill in in good time. Matehett- 
is a good variety fur pul work. The buds of 
the Japanese Chrysanthemums should be 
secured this month. Incurves will not take 
so long to build up, and will do next month. 
Study the feeding when buds arc swelling. 
Show Pelargoniums which have broken into 
growth will be ready for shading out and re¬ 
potting. using clean pots of rather smaller 
size. Double white Primulas should be sur¬ 
faced with chopped Moss, jh’h). and sand, 
raising the top-dressing up tie* stems to in¬ 
duce roots to form thereon, which may, by- 
aud-bye, be divided and started in small pots. 
If all goes well, each shoot will have formed 
roots. Among the plants in flower now are 
Aehimenes, Statices, Hydrangea paniciilata 
grandiflora, and Cassia corymbosa. This, 
when planted out against a wall or pillar, 
makes a showy plant, and yellow flowers are 
scarce. Crowe a saligna IniiToIia is a rather 
pretty pink-flowered bush not difficult to 
grow! American Carnations are plentiful, 
and are nice for cutting. Fuchsias, Zonal 
Geraniums, and Begonias should now be in 
good condition. Kalosunthes coceinea. 
Humea elegans, and double Petunias in ay also 
be had in bloom. Jasminum graudiflorum, 
planted out and trained up a pillar, is very 
sweet. Gradually reduce summer flow ?ring 
climbers, such as Passion flowers and Tar- 
soniae. The last are still flowering freely, 
but are best suited for a large, lofty bouse. 
Good, strong cuttings of Hydrangeas may 
still be inserted either in pots or boxes, and 
kept close and shaded till rooted. Early cut¬ 
tings may be potted off. They should be 
placed outside to ripen when established. 
Older plants that were cut down should be 
moved into larger pots. They are strong- 
rooting plants, and require feeding. 

Stove. —Allamandns should be tied in to 
show the flowers to the best advantage. 
Shade from bright sunshine, and give liquid- 
manure freely. Specimen Bougainvilleas 
will be better in the conservatory now*; in 
fact, these do well planted out in a warm 
conservatory trained up under the roof, 
where the flowering sprays can hang down, 
and if the plants are pruned in freely before 
they begin to grow the flowering shoots will 
attain considerable length, and be very effec¬ 
tive. The soil should not he tint riili or 
light, or they will not flower so well. AVIion 
planted out they do best in good turfy loaui. 
with a small quantity of old manure, and 
some sand, if the loam is heavy. The drain¬ 
age should be free, as during growth the 
plants must be watered freely, though a drier 
condition will be better during winter. The 
Clerodendvons are a beautiful fauiilv. f '• 
f a 11 a x is a broad leaved scarlet-flowered bush, 
very effective when in flower. C. Balfouriana 
has more of a climbing habit, and some kind 
of training will be necessary. It makes a 
very useful exhibition plant for the summer 
shows, when- well done. There is not the de¬ 
ni amt for these things-wwv there was. as the 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



August 24, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


313 


principal demand is for something that will 
yield long-stemmed flowers for cutting. 

Early Peach-house. If all the branches 
not likely to be wanted for training in ate 
removed, the young wood upon which the 
future crop largely depends will be better 
ripened, because the foliage will lie fully ex¬ 
posed. Most of the branches which have 
borne this season’s crop may be cut out, and 
then use the garden engine or the hose very 
freely, especially if there are any signs of 
red-spider. In some gardens the red-spider 
is most troublesome, a.s a good deal depends 
upon the charneler of the house and the posi¬ 
tion. Red-spider is not difficult to keep in 
check where there is a good supply of soft 
water which has been exposed to the atmos¬ 
phere in an open tank. If taken in time, 
the syringe or the engine will suffice to keep 
this little pest out. If Peach borders are 
permitted to get dry at any time, there will, 
probably, be trouble. 

Vine extension. -In planting new vineries 
it is customary to plant from 3 feet to 4 feet 
apart. In the latter case, a second rod is 
taken up, and, a.s a rule, this system answers 
well. But. in the course of a long life spent 
in gardens, much of it under glass, I have 
wen the advantage of permitting the strongest 
' mes to extend and clearing others to give 
them room. This is earning out Nature’s 
plan of the survival of the fittest. Of course, 
iti this case the roots must, have the neces¬ 
sary food, which is mainly given in the shape 
of top-dressings. I have seen Vim* borders 
outside sometimes planted with flowers or 
early vegetables, and the Vines will not., 
under such conditions, do their best. In 
gardening, as in a number of other matters, 
the men generally make their own trouble. 
Liquid stimulants are useful to late Grapes, 
but it is possible t«» overdo it, and though 
there may be large, fat berries, colour will be 
lacking. 

Winter Cucumbers. No time should be 
lost now ill sowing seeds for filling a house 
to bear in winter. Sow or plant the seeds in 
single pots, and plunge in beds where there 
is a little warmth near the glass. If the seeds 
are old. germination will be more certain if 
the seeds are placed in water and the vessel 
set, on the hot-water pipes till the seeds are 
chitting. If transferred to warm soil, suf¬ 
ficiently moist, the plants will show f above 
ground in a very few days. When germina¬ 
tion lingers the plants are usually weakly. 
The house intended to be planted must be 
made thoroughly clean and sweet. There 
would be less disease among Cucumbers if 
the houses were well cleansed after each crop. 
Then, again, it is necessary, where manure 
is used to supply bottom heat, to be careful 
that insects, such as woodlice, are not con¬ 
veyed into the house. I have recently heard 
of a case where the Cucumbers w'ere de¬ 
stroyed by woodlice taken into the house in 
the stable manure placed under the plants 
for warmth. And a good deal of harm arises 
sometimes from leaving some of the old bot¬ 
tom-heat stuff in. One cannot be too careful 
in keeping everything sweet and clean. 

|n the house. —Carnations in pots last 
fairly well indoors, and they are very sweet. 
Of course, every house is welL ventilated 
now. but cold currents should be avoided as 
much as possible. Achimeues are flowering 
freely now', and they are fairly lasting, and 
such things associate well * with Ferns. 
Streptocarpi are lasting, and are not diffi¬ 
cult to keep in condition. These things and 
others of like character come as a change to 
Geraniums, Fuchsias, etc., and are ap¬ 
preciated. 

Outdoor garden. -Those who are thinking 
°f laying down new lawns should trench or 
( lig over the laud now, adding manure if 
necessary, roughly level the surface, and theu 
leave it till the middle of September. By 
that time the seeds of the annual weeds, if 
there are any in the soil, will hare started 
into growth, and the necessary work of pre¬ 
paring the surface for sowing Grass seeds 
will destroy them. Tread the soil in oppo¬ 
site directions, rake perfectly level, and, to 
still further add to its firmness, draw the 
roller over it. After rolling, if there are any 
inequalities in the surface, make these places 
np. and when the weatheiviTrvealm and t|ip 

Disit Go gic 


surface dry, sow the best lawn Grass seeds 
thickly at the rate of two bushels per acre, 
rake the seeds in, and cover lightly with 
finely sifted or screened soil, and draw the 
roller over them again. If no covering is 
used, many of the seeds which lie on the 
surface may be gathered up by birds before 
they have a chance to germinate. The first 
shower will bring up the seedling Grasses, 
and the lawn will, be green in a few days, 
and ready for playing on the following spring 
at a much less cost than turf, and the lawn 
will be free from weeds. Do not cut down 
the steins of Madonna Lilies till they are 
perfectly ripe, and as soon ns that takes 
plaeo, if they are to be transplanted, move 
them at once, but a.s long a.s they are in a 
satisfactory condition do not transplant un¬ 
less the matter is urgent. Transplant seed¬ 
ling Pansies aiul Violas to a cool position, 
and, when planted, scatter a little finely 
broken up Mushroom or old Moss-litter- 
manure among them. Primulas and Poly¬ 
anthuses may be treated in a similar way. 

I find. a.s I expect others have done, that the 
Blue Primrose does not come altogether true 
from seeds; therefore, its propagation, if a 
mass of the same colour is required, should 
be bv division of the root crowns. 

Fruit garden. The Apple crop is not, 
generally, n heavy one. but some trees arc 
heavily laden. These are chiefly belonging 
to the Codlin family, but occasionally we find 
a tree of Wellington and others carrying a 
good crop. Most of the trees which are 
bearing well arc just in their prime, and 
have not been exhausted bv over cropping. 
The fruits are falling from old trees a good 
deal. The old frees wisely cast them off when 
the time of pressure comes. But this Apple- 
dropping might, in a great measure, be pre¬ 
vented by feeding with liquid-manure and 
applying rich top-dressings earlier in the sea¬ 
son. After the early Peaches have been 
gathered some thinning of the old wood may 
be done. If those brandies from which the 
fruits have been gathered are cut out now 
more room can be given to the young wood 
that will bear next year’s crop.' All young 
shoots should be trained in close to the wall 
now, if not already done, and all leading 
shoots on trained trees of all kinds should 
have attention also, as the young wood is 
pliable now and easily placed in the right 
position. Morcllo Cherries, Gooseberries, 
and Currants which it is necessary to keep as 
long as possible should be netted up. Bottles 
half filled with sweet stuff beer and sugar 
will do—and hung up among the trees will 
capture a good many wasps and flies. This 
should be done before the wasps have tasted 
the ripe fruits, otherwise they will continue 
their depredations amoag the fruits. Re¬ 
move all runners from Strawberries in pots 
and elsewhere, if the plants are to remain, 
and give no quarter to weeds. 

Vegetable garden. Complete the usual 
sowings of Winter Onions, Spinach, and 
Cabbages, and provide liberally for autumn 
anti winter salads. Plant Walcheren and 
other late Cauliflowers. Any Cabbage 
plants in the early seed beds may be planted 
1 foot apart to come in for Coleworts. If 
old stems of Cabbages are left to form 
sprouts all old leaves should lx? removed and 
a top dressing of manure given. If the plants 
are starved the caterpillars will soon be 
among them, and, in such cases, caterpillars 
are difficult to clear, but I have not seen so 
many caterpillars this season—the weather 
has been too cold for them. Before earthing 
up Celery, remove all sucker-like growths and 
small, useless leaves from the bases, and tie 
the leaves up loosely with strings of mattiug 
or raffia. This will keep the soil out of the 
hearts, and make the work easier, and spare 
the services of an extra hand to hold up the 
leaves. Onions are later in ripening this 
season, but they should 1x3 pulled up and 
laid out- to harvest as snnn as the growth is 
ripe enough. The ripening may be hastened 
by passing a wooden rake over them to bend 
down the necks of the plants. Parsley may 
be transplanted now to a site where protec¬ 
tion can be given. Shorten the roots a little 
and remove a few of the largest leaves. Draw^ 
a little earth up to the 6tems of all green 
crops. 

E. Horray. 


THE COMING WEEK'S WORK. 

Extracts from a Carden Diary. 

August 26th .— Finished pruning wall and 
other trained trees for the present. Leading 
shoots have been nailed or tied near the wall. 
All trees on what are termed dwarfing stocks 
have been mulched with manure, as such 
trees w r ill not succeed without surface feed¬ 
ing. But. when these trees are well nourished 
they bear fine highly-coloured fruits, and they 
seldom fail. Wherever there is space on the 
wall where Plums are planted, a young 
shoot is trained in. and they keep the trees 
full of bearing wood. 

August 27th.— Tomatoes outside have been 
stopped, as if we ripen the four or, in some 
cases,- five trusses now on the plants, we 
shall be satisfied. Plants growing near a. 
south walL have been mulched with manure 
to keep in the moisture. Away from the 
shelter of the wall frequent hoeing suffices. 
All faded flowers nre removed from Roses and 
liquid-manure is given freely, as we want a 
lata bloom. Some thinning has been given 
to Climbing Roses and Ramblers. 

August 2S'lli .—Put in cuttings of Ivies, 
Virginian Creepers, Honeysuckles. Jasmines, 
and other climbers in shady position. ShalL 
water if necessary. Budded Scarlet Thorns 
on common White Thorns, and Silver Maples 
on the common green variety. Sowed Cu¬ 
cumber seeds for planting in bouse next 
month. Made up another Mushroom-hod 
outside. Shall begin making beds in the 
house in September. Sowed more Fern 
spores and potted Ferns from stores. 

August 29th .—Shifted into 5-inch pots a lot 
of Begonia Gloire de Lorraine. Will be kept 
in dose pit for a time, and lightly shaded. 
We never have too many of this Begonia, as 
it stands in the conservatory so well. We are 
still putting in cuttings of bedding plants of 
various kinds. Pansies and Violas are also 
being pricked out to get strong. Wo raise a 
good many perennials from seeds. Theso 
also are now ready for planting in nursery 
beds. 

August 30th. Sowed several kinds of early 
and late Cauliflowers. We do not depend 
altogether upon this sowing, as Cauliflowers 
nre always sown in heat, in early spring. 
Early Apples and Pears are gathered as soon 
as they part easily from the stalk, and placed 
in cool fruit-room for a time, but these early 
fruits must be used soon, or they become 
mealy. Irish Peach keeps better, and 
Duchess of Oldenburg is a very useful Apple 
for eating or cooking at this season. 

August 31st .— Harvested main crop of 
OnionB. Early Potatoes are being lifted, 
and as the ground is cleared Spinach aiul 
Turnips are sown, the only preparation being 
3 lb. of superphosphate per square rod, sow n 
in the drills with the seeds. Being short of 
scarlet Lobelias, a box was sown with seeds in 
the spring, and several hundreds of plants 
have been pricked off, and will be strong for 
bedding next season. 


POULTRY. 

THE CARE OF MOULTING BIRDS. 
During the moulting period, which takes 
place once a year, usually during August or 
September, the birds cannot be said to be 
actually ill; but they are, nevertheless, pass¬ 
ing through a somewhat critical stage, when 
neglect may have the meet serious conse¬ 
quences, the ill effects of which may remain 
throughout their whole lives. If, on the 
other hand, they are carefully attended to, 
no ill results will accrue, and once the new 
feathers are formed, the fowls will bo nw 
strong and vigorous as over. Early-hatched 
chickens generally obtain their adult, plum 
age about July or August, and while this 
cannot be correctly termed a moulting, they 
yet require the same careful treatment as 
the older bird*. 

A strong, healthy cockerel or pullet in n 
lean, hard condition, takes about six weeks 
for the change of feathers to be accom¬ 
plished ; so that, if the process commences 
about the first week in August, it should be 
completed by the middle of September, in 
plenty of time for laying to recommence to¬ 
wards the latter part-of October orj early in- 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



314 


G.lRDERTJVG ILLUSTRATED. 


Adjust 21, 1907 


November. The older the bird, the more 
protracted is the period of moulting, and 
thus, if for no other reason, though there 
are several, it i« advisable to depend for 
winter eggs on hens in their first or second 
seasons. An old hen sometimes takes three, 
or even four, months to complete the 
change, so that, before the process is finished, 
the cold weather has set in, severely taxing 
the strength and constitution, and probably 
converting what is otherwise quite a simple 
into a lengthy and tedious process. 

During the moulting period, it is essential 
to house the birds in warm, well ventilated 
houses, free from draughts, and perfectly 
dry. On wet mornings they are better under 
cover, as, if they are exposed to much rain, 
the moult is liable to be delayed. If there 
is a scratching shed attached to the house, 
eo much the better, as under this the birds 
can remain, and yet procure exercise, so im¬ 
portant a factor towards success, without 
which it is impossible to maintain them 
healthy and sound. From too much euu, 
also, the birds must be protected, and unless 
there is some natural shade, such as trees 
or hedges afford, some artificial shelter must 
be provided. Flake hurdles give excellent 
shade, or two ordinary hurdles, fastened to 
gether with straw between, will answer well. 

The focal during the first few weeks of the 
moult—that is. before the new growth com¬ 
mences—should consist of non stimulating 
grains and meals, and the following mixture 
is very suitable for morning feeding: Two 
parts toppings (called middlings, sharps, pol¬ 
lards, seconds, or thirds, according to the 
locality), one of Barley-meal, and one of 
bran ; in the afternoon Wheat and Oats should 
be supplied, with some green food at mid¬ 
day. During the later stages, when most of 
the old feathers have disappeared, and the 
new* onc*3 are making their appearance, the 
percentage of nitrogenous matter should be 
considerably increased, Pea or Bean-meal 
taking the place of bran in the above mixture. 
Beans and Peas are exceptionally strong in 
albuminoids, and are, therefore, extremely 
useful for the purpose. If the birds are in 
close confinement, they should receive three 
meals a day; but when at liberty, two are 
sufficient, as in the latter case they are able 
to obtain so much natural food. Added to 
the morning mixture, a little cooked meat is 
beneficial, and, being strong in nitrogenous 
matter, assists in the formation of the new* 
feathers. 

Green food in one form or another is essen¬ 
tial, and, as at the moulting season there is 
always plenty of greenstuff about, this need 
present no difficulty. The outer leaves of 
Lcitucefi are greatly relished by the birds, 
and, when procurable, should always he given 
in preference to Cabbage-leaves and the like. 
Boiled Nettles are excellent, having a good 
medicinal effect. The green food i6 best 
given about mid-day. A little powdered sul¬ 
phur mixed with the food twice a week. In 
the proportion of a tablespoonful to every 
dozen birds, has the effect of keeping the 
blood cool and the orgnns in good working 
order. It is a good plan to add to the 
drinking-water a little sulphate of iron two 
or three times during the moulting period, a 
piece the size of a Walnut to one gallon of 
water. E. T. B. 

Fowls unable to walk <11. Hunt). Tin- birds sire 
probably suffering from prolapsus, commonly known 
as "down behind,” due. as a general rule, to over¬ 
feeding or excessive laying. No stimulating foods 
should be supplied, in order to immediately stop 
laying and reduce the system. If any of the bowels 
protrude from the vent, they must be replaced, and 
weak solution of alum or vinegar-and-water injected. 
The complaint is always liable to return. K. T. It. 


Rain water in water-barrel — What meauR can 
be used to Ke*-p such water fresh? I have used char¬ 
coal, but without any satisfactory results.—D. Y\ 
Chk. 

[When you sny you want to keep the water 
in a rain-water barrel fresh, I presume you 
want to keep it free from vegetable growths 
and insects. I think you can only do this 
by keeping the barrel so closely closed that 
neither spores nor insects can gain access to 
the water, which, in an ordinary water 
barrel, is practically impossible. These 
organisms will not in any way pollute the 
water, except that-^*hen they die their re¬ 
mans will decaj/in iirvI suggest 


that you clean out the barrel periodically 
and keep it as tightly closed as possible. Of 
course, you could add various chemicals that 
would destroy all life in the water, hut. as the 
water was used and fresh water drained into 
the barrel, you would have to renew them, 
and the water would never be pure rain¬ 
water.—G. S. S.] 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

Questions.— Queries and answers are inserted in 
Gardrni.no free (if charge if correspondents follow these 
rules: All communications should be clearly and concisely 
written on one side of the paper only, arid addressed to 
the Editor of Gardening, 17, Fur nival-street, Holbom, 
London, E.C. Letters on business should be sent to the 
Pubusiikk. The name arul address of the sender are 
required in euldition to any designation he may desire to 
be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, 
each shouUl be on a separate piece of paper , and not more 
than three queries should be sent at a time. Correspon¬ 
dents should bear in mind that, as Gardening View to be 
sent to press some time in advance of date,, querus cannot 
always be replied to in the issue immediately following 
the receipt of their communication. We do ixot reply to 
queries by post. 

Naming flowers, shrubs, etc.-Fair examples 
of each subject—i.e., leaves and snoots as well as jlowers 
ami fruit—if to be had, must be sent. When more 
than one plant is sent each should be numbered. If 
these rules are not complied with subjects cannot be 
named correctly. 

Naming fruit. —The differences between varieties 
of fruits are in many cases so trifling that it is necessary 
(hat three examples showing the range of form of each 
kind should be sent. Nut more than four varieties at a 
time should be stnL 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

Treatment of Begonias (F. E. M. C.l.-We do 
not think the Begonias lock unsatisfactory, but 
probably they have suffered, as most things have, 
from the cold, wet spring and summer. Yes, it may 
be beneficial to divide them in the circumstances. 

Thrips on Pteris fronds (J. 11. S .).-The l'teris 
fronds sent were simply eaten up with thrips, which 
seldom trouble Maidenhairs. They have, apparently, 
been subjected to too dry an ntmosphere. Vaporising 
with the XL-All vaporiser is the best way to destroy 
these pests. 

Propagating Cordylines <J. L. B .).-The breaks 
on your Cordyfine australis are not at all readily 
rooted, unless you have sundry appliances available. 
Seed is not difficult to obtain, and can be raised 
without difficulty, or small plants of an elective size 
may be purchased at a cheap rate from nurseries. 
You ask how to treat the old plant, hut as it is 
planted out and growing so well, we can only udvise 
leaving it alone. 

Roses on own roots (Cheshire).—Vie should ad¬ 
vise you to plant in September as many sorts as you 
can obtain in pots, and then again in October, those 
varieties that can only be supplied from the open 
ground. Late spring would be au excellent time to 
plant, but, possibly, you would be unable to procure 
such sorts then as you desire to plant. Try Messrs. 
Wm. Paul and Sons, Waltham Cross. We are glad 
you find these pages so helpful. 

Water Lilies in tubs (E. M. IIearn). -From 
your description, we imagine that water or other 
rats have had access to the tubs, and are respon¬ 
sible for the mischief of which you complain. If this I 
be so, the only way would be to cover the tops of I 
the tubs with fine-mesh wire, a rather disfiguring j 
process when one remembers the Lilies were planted 
for their beauty and decorative properties. You 
might, however, do this for a time, and by setting 
traps near, ascertain whether rat3 visit the place. 
Paralfiu oil would be most injurious to the plants, 
and must not be used. There is no way of keeping 
a small quantity of water in tubs of this description 
clear. Some strong chemicals fatal to plant life have - 
been employed or, rather, experimented with, and j 
promptly discarded, and in larger water areas arc as ' 
fatal to animals as to plants. The slime and other j 
growths seen in the water are usually the product , 
of the water itself, and are only kept in check by 1 
frequent skimming of the surface. These accumula¬ 
tions in the water constitute a groat drawback to 
the growth of Water Lilies on a small scale. 

TREES AND SHRUBS. 

Syringa shoots (M. L. Clifton). — Your Syringa- 
shoots are. I believe, infested with a fungus known 
as Phyllostreta syringas. Cut off all the infested 
shoots and burn tnem. Next season, as soon as there 
are any signs of the fungus, syringe with Bordeaux 
mixture. Collect and burn all fallen leaves.— 
G. S. S. 

New garden (Cheshire) — We are of opinion, after 
reading your letter, that the situation Is of so excep¬ 
tional a nature it would he imprudent for us to 
advise, and that the as-istnnee of some local nursery¬ 
man, who could view the place, would be far better, 
You i' nothing about tie extent <>f tli*- garden, or 
1 in w In' b you purpoei planting ]'■■ < >.•. Elm, 
Bin h. l’oplar. and various spe< i> s of the Pine family. 
W( may eay generally, however, that Coroican and 
Austrian Pines aie excellent for windbreaks, tlie first 
named being of quick growth and hardy, while not in 
any sense fastidious. We doubt the wisdom of plant¬ 
ing the hungry, superfh ial-rooting Elm within a small 
area, and Poplars usually arc ineffective as wind¬ 
breaks, and early lose their leaves. The Corsican 
Pine for a windbreak might be planted in a double 
line, the plants alternating with each other, 4 feet 
being allowed from plant to plant, and a like i 
distance between the rows. By arranging at a dis¬ 
tance of a few feet apart a plantation of common-' 


Laurels in front of the Pines, an effective screen 
would he formed in time. What we remember of 
the district is that poisonous fumes are often the 
cause of plants failing to grow, and if this deterrent 
still exists, It. is all the more desirable that you 
should obtain assistance on the spot. —E. .1. 

FRUIT. 

Insects on Pear leaf (3/rs. Babington ).—The 
Pear-leaf which you sent is attacked by the Pear-leaf 
blister-mite (Eriophes piri). The best thing you can 
do at present is to pick off all the infested leaves 
and burn or bury them. Next spring, just before the 
leaves begin to open, syringe the buds with a strong 
solution of paraffin emulsion, taking care that the 
insecticide reaches every part of tlie bud. Spray 
again with a more dilute solution about the end of 
May. It is more important that the spray reaches 
the undersides of the leaves than the upper.—G. 8. S. 

VEGETABLES. 

Insects on Cabbage <T C. H’oodi — The leaf you 
scut (Cabbage, I suppose) was so crushed in the post 
that it is difficult to say wliat was wrong. There wa? 
the flattened body of the grub of a fly, probably. 
Anthoinvia brassiere, the Cabbage fly, which feeds on 
the roots and lower parts of the stems of Cabbages; 
and there are traces of a fungus. Which did the 
mischief, it is impossible to sny from the condition of 
the leaf, which should have been packed carefully.— 
G. 8. S. 

MISCELLANEOUS. 

Glass discs for flowers (Mrs. J. Martin) These 
may he obtained at any large glass and china dealers, 
also of ironmongers and the stores in many parts of 
the country. 

Books on Orchids (J. L.). — Books likely to suit 
your purpose arc: "Orchid Cultivator's Guide Book, 
by H. A. Burberry, 6s. 4d.; "The Book of Orchids.” 
by W. H. White, 2s. 9d.; "Orchids; Their Culture 
and Management," by W. Watson, 25s. fid. All of 
the above can be obtained from 41, Wellington-street, 
Strand, London. 


NAMES OF PLANTS AND FRUITS. 


Names of plants. Siyma. — Phlomis frutieos* 

(Shrubby Jerusalem Sage).-S. ITa/fcer.-■ Henbane 

(Hyoscyamus niger). Mrs. F. F Barthorp.— Most 
probably Khamnus Frangula, but without flowers or a 
word of description it is impossible to say positively. 

—.—Mrs. Stock .—Leycesteria formosa.- S. G.—l, 

Onopordon acanthium ; 2. Pundanus sp., probably, but 
cannot name from a solitary leaf: 3, Lobelia, quite 

shrivelled up: 4, Sidalcca Candida.- Spiraa.— 1. 

Spirrea palmata; 2, Gnulthcria procumbens: 3, Per- 
nettva mucronata var.; 4. Astilhe (Spirrea) japonic a. 

- Erin. Lysiniachia elcthroides.- Ityecroft.— We 

believe the Rose to be Dundee Rambler, although we 
cannot be positive from tlie specimens sent, ns they 

had suffered considerably in transit.- II. A. D. —Fuchsia 

comllina; shrub follen "to pieces and cannot be named. 
We do not name varieties of florist's flow*eni; these are so 
numerous and the differences so slight that they can be 
distinguished only where there is the means of comparison 
in a good collection of the different kinds. The Carna¬ 
tions you send, as received,do not, seem good flowers, but 
at this season of the year flowers suffer a good deal in transit, 
—a fact of which some of our correspondents who send 
them loosely arranged in boxes do not seem to be mindful 
of.- A. Ollui. -lied-berried Elder (Sandmens raeemesa). 

— Onloo. —Yellow. Buphthalmium S|*ecioMim ; blue, 
TracluTnim cmruleum ; other plant is Slsvrinchimn 
striatum. OorreP]Kindents should mimltcr their plants. 

— IF. 0. X .—Double Kcrria jnponica. The plants in the 
other consignment are: 1, Small leaf of Manilla : 2, Wlute 
Campanula (C. carnation alba); 3, You must send a better 

specimen.- A. Donovan .—Apparently an Argemone ; 

you should have sent the leaves; 2, Salvia Homiiimm : 
8, We do not. name v arieties of Carnations. See reply to 

44 H. A D.” above.-IFm. Withers .—You are right—the 

specimen is 41 far gone.” but apparently the plant is one 

of the forms of Spiraoa jnponica.- J. Barden .—See reply 

to "H.A. D ” above. Evidently one of the Rambler 
Roses.— K. E. Johnson .—Impossible to name from 
the leaves of small seedling annuals; you should send a 
flower. Sarnia .—Rubus pbcenicolasiu*. Limestone. 

1, Eryngium amethystinum ; 2, E. Oliverianuni: 3, E. 
alpinnm ; 4, Next, week ; 5, Variegated Gardener's Garters ; 

8. A Sedum ; if the flowers are rosy, S. Sicbo’di.- Col. 

Fetherstonhauah.—}, Sedum pedntum ; 2. Linarin pur¬ 
purea ; 3, Viburnum, but it is not reasonable to expect 

name when neither fruit nor flower is sent.- Mr.-. 

Ganssen .— 1, Salvia Horininum; 2, Venetian SuiuaHi 
(Rhus cotinus).-— G. C. — 1. Hamianthus ; 2, Cut-leaved 
Elder, so far as can be judged from the specimen ; 3, Next 
week- Edwin Smitii.— I, Sisyrinchium Bermudianum ; 

2, Anchusa sempervirens, well grown; 3. Polygonum 

Bphnroetachyum ; 4, Double Yarrow(AchilleaX- J.A.R. 

—We do not name florist's flowers. These are forms of the 
Tufted Pansies or Violas, of which there is a very large 
number. 


Catalogues received —Win. Cutbush and Son. 
Highgate Nurseries, London. N.— Carnations. Pint*. 

Cloves; also Hyacinths, Tulips, etc -Dickson, 

Brown, and Tait, Corporation-street. Manchester.— 

Bulbs. -Dickson and Robinson, Cathedral-street, 

Manchester. — Bulbs and Roses. -Sutton and Sons. 

Reading.—Bulb*.-Cooper. Taber, and Co.. PO and 

92, Soutbwark-street, London, S.E.— Wholesale Bulb 
Catalogue. 


Readers on holiday.—During the holiday season 
readers who find any difficulty in obtaining Uardk5i.no 
Illustrated from the local newsagent or bookstall, may 
have a copy posted regularly for a few weeks or longer by 
sending a remittance at the rate of IJd. a copy to the 
Publisher, Gardening Illustrated, 17, Furnival-street, 
Holbcrn, London, E O. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


No. 1,486 —Vol. XXIX. 


Founded by W. Robinson , Author qf “ The English Flower Garden 


AUGUST 31, 1907. 


INDEX. 


.Eaculus indica .. .. 348 i Chryaanthemumn .. 350 Gardening under diffi- j Pea Eureka .. .. 356- Rocket*, double while 355 Statice lalifoUa .. .. 354 

Apple-shoots, cankered 346 Chrysanthemums — sea- cutties. 354 j Peaches, diseased .. 346 Rose Baronne Piston Sunless season, hints for 

Apricot Musch-Musch.. 346 , sonable notes .. .. 350 Grapes, scalded .. .. 345’ Peaches under glass .. 356 de St. Cyr .. . 351 the 315 

Auriculas, border .. 353 | Chrysanthemums, ihe Helionopsis breriscapa 355 Pears cracked .. ..346 Rose Celia .. .. 351 , Sweet Williams .. .. 355 

Balsams in autumn .. 349 single-flowered early.. 350 Hollies, pruning.. .. 347 Perennials to bloom in Rose Celine Forestlcr.. 352 Tomatoes, spotted .. 356 

Bee-flowers .. .. 357 I Clematis.358 Hollies, Sea (Eryti- June . 358 Roses .351 Tomatoes, stunted .. 355 

Bees.. .. .. .. 357 Conservatory .. 356 giums). 354 Phacelia campaaularia 353 1 Rokcj, Bauksiau, prim- Trees and shrubs .. 347 

Bir-ls .358 Crape Myrtle (Lager- Indoor plants .. .. 348 ! Plants and flowers .. 348 ing . 358 Trees, the time to trans- 

Calceolariaa, preparing gtrremia indica), the.. 349 Irises, Spanish .. .. 354 i Plants, bedding, sum- j Roses, Brier, beautiful 352 plant .347 

frames for .. 354 Dahlia failing .. .. 358 Law and custom .. 358 I mer .351 | Roses failing .. .. 3.58 Tulipe. planting.. .. 358 

Carnations, border .. 353 Daisies, Michaelmas, Lilies, Arum, lifting .. 354 i Poppies, Iceland .. 354 ; Roses for border under Vegetable garden .. 357 

Carnations, Malnmison, staking and tying 353 Lilium auratum, a tine 354 j Potato-tops, diseased .. 355 west wall 352 Vegetable Marrow, de¬ 
ni the open .. .. 354 Eulalia japonica vario- Liliuras, treatment of .. 348 ' Potatoes, insects in .. 356 Roses, Rambler, after cayod.356 

Chnsuithemums, dlvi- gata .318 Mandrake in fruit, the.. 346 j Potatoes, late sprouting 355 j flowering .. .. 352 Vegetables .. .. 3 r > 

ding the plant» vornns Foxgloves. 354 Melons growing .. .. 346 Primroses and Daffodils Roses, Tea. a defect in Vinery, planting a new 356 

propagating by cut- Fringe trees (Chiouan- Mushroom-beds, making j under Firs .. .. 358 certain Hybrid Teas Wax-flower (Hoya car¬ 
tings, early-flowering 350 thus), the .. .. 347 up. 356 I Primroses, hardy 355 > and . 352 nosa), the .. 34S 

Chrysanthemums, early- Fruit .315 Narcissus Cremona .. 353 ! Primulas, needling, I Royal Horticultural So- Week s work, the 

flowering — another j Fruit garden .. .. 357 I Nomesia dying .. .. 358 j pinching out the eiety . 357 coming.357 

sport of the Masse I Fruit-trees, neglected .. 346 Outdoor garden .. .. 356 ! blooms of .. .. 354 Snake'B-head Fritillary Window gardening .. 356 

family .. .. .. 350 1 Garden diary, extracts Outdoor plants .. .. 353 j Rhus Cotinus .. .. 317 ! (Fritillaria Meleagris) 335 Winter flowers for the 

Chrysanthemums in the from a.357 Oxaliscorniculata .. 354 1 Rondelclia speciosa j .Spanish Broom (Spar- stove .356 

border .. .. .. 350 Garden work .. .. 355 Oxalis Deppci .. .. 353 [ major. 349 I tium junceum).. .. 348 Zcphyranthes, the .. 349 


FRUIT, 

SCALDED GRAPES. 

Tills term is one* well known among gar¬ 
deners, and is applied to Grapes which seem 
as if boiling water had been poured over the 
bundles. Unfortunately, it is of frequent 
occurrence, judging from the many com¬ 
plaints marie and questions asked concerning 
it at this season of the year. It certainly is 
very vexing to have a fine house of Grapes 
spoilt in this way just as they are beginning 
to look well, and be forced to perform a 
second thinning, and this time of berries not 
of our own choosing. There seem to be some 
doubt and differences of opinion as to the 
exact mechanical or chemical change which 
takes plaeo in thus changing green, firm, 
and healthy berries into soft and lifeless 
pulp; and, as to the cause, some are of 
opinion tlint it is to be attributed to too much 
heat, while others affirm it is caused by a 
chill, but it certainly looks more like partial 
cooking than anything else. I have no doubt 
that it is caused by a sudden rise in the tem¬ 
perature of the house; the atmosphere 
quickly becoming warmer than the Grapes. 
The sun striking the berries at the same time, 
they are, as it. were, scalded by hot vapour; 
but why they should be subject to this danger 
during a short period of their growth only is 
more difficult to understand, also that some 
varieties are much more liable to suffer than 
others. Lady Dow lie’s is notorious for its I 
susceptibility to scalding ; Muscat of Alex 
andria, Madresfield Court, and other Muscat 
kinds are also liable to be caught, while 
other varieties will occasionally show signs of 
it on a few' berries. The period of growth 
when this scalding is most likely to occur is 
when the berries are about half grown and 
before they commence to colour, which would 
seem to point out that the change which is 
going on in the berries from sour to sweet is 
a favourable condition to it. Generally there 
is most danger in the early part of the morn¬ 
ing. but I am inclined to think it will happen 
at all times during the day if the conditions 
which produce it are present, and afternoon 
sun, especially if allowed to strike the 
bunches through the west-end of the vinery, 
will be almost sure to leave the exposed 
berries brown and soft. The morning, how¬ 
ever, is the most critical time, and no doubt 
scalding more often occurs at this time of 
the day than at any other. 

Fortunately, this destructive malady is not 
difficult of prevention. The remedies are 
simple and easy of application, and consist 
in careful ventilation and shade. I have 
never known a vinery in which it could not 
be prevented by these means. In the first 
place, it is requisite to impress upon the per¬ 
son in charge of the house the conditions 
which contribute to its cause, and the way to 
prevent its occurrence. One of the mo6t im¬ 
portant principles in airing a house is to pre¬ 
vent an undue rise of th$ temperature, not 
to lower it after it ms rbeu. I^rjairestly 


the houses remain closed on warm days, if 
the sky is overcast, until a sudden burst of 
sunshine causes a rush to the ventilators, 
which are thrown open indiscriminately, re¬ 
sulting in cold currents of air and draughts 
in all directions; neither is it advisable on 
showery days to close the lights for every 
storm, which will, perhaps, be over before 
one can go the round of the houses. 

Scalded berries are the work of a few 
minutes ; therefore, to avert disaster it. is 
best to have some definite mode of ventila¬ 
tion, especially for the period when it is 
liable to occur. The vinery should never be 
quite closed, or, if it is closed for a short 
time in the afternoon, air should be put on 
again the last thing in the evening, but it is 
safer not to close entirely at any time, neither 
is it necessarv to do so, ns forcing at this 
stage is not judicious treatment. The first 
thing in the morning the overnight air should 
be increased a little, and the attendant must 
be guided by the conditions of the weather 
as the day advances as to a further supply or 
otherwise. A good night temperature is 
60 (legs., with a gradual rise to 80 degs. din¬ 
ing the day, and by maintaining a gentle 
heat in the pipes at night, an extra safeguard 
will be provided in giving buoyancy to the 
atmosphere. Artificial shading is only neces¬ 
sary when the natural covering is scanty. 
Undoubtedly, the best shading is the foliage 
of the Vine, which ought to be thick enough 
for the purpose, but, failing this, a thin piece 
of canvas or hexagon netting will give 
security. The position of the house must 
also be considered ; if the ends are high and 
light, and much exposed to morning or even 
ing sun, it is not safe to leave them unpro- 
j tected. 

A sufficient, number of shoots should be 
trained on the inside to protect the berries, 
or the glass may be given a coating of lime- 
wash, or have some shading material tacked 
on for a time. I have found the removal of 
a few panes of glass, substituting in their 
place perforated zinc, to be of great advant¬ 
age in preventing a too sudden rise of the 
temperature ; nlso in counteracting overheat¬ 
ing during the hottest part of the day. 

A. 


HINTS FOR THE SUNLESS SEASON. 
This year all hopes of having enough sun¬ 
shine to compensate for it« absence in the fore 
part of the summer have now been quite dis¬ 
sipated, and we must fall back upon the arti¬ 
ficial methods at our disposal to supply the 
deficiency of natural heat. This, of course, 
can only be done where the fruit-trees are 
growing under gla^.s, and a season like the 
present one emphasises the necessity of al¬ 
ways providing some means of heating houses 
which are erected for the purpose of fruit¬ 
growing in this country, not alone as a means 
of assisting the ripening of the fruit, but that 
which is, perhaps, of greater importance 
still—namely, the ripening of the wood and 
maturing the buds which are to produce next 
year’s crop. These much to be desired 


points, in the estimation of the fruit-grower, 
arc essential for the maintenance of his trees 
in health and vigour, without which it is 
vain to look for good crops. In a sunless 
season, then, like the present one. although it. 
is not in our power to supply anything in the 
place of that desirable element, there ar«* 
ways and means at. our disposal, by the use 
of which wc can greatly assist the ripening of 
the. wood ; therefore, we should not neglect to 
use them. 

It, is always a relief to the gardener when 
he can dispense with fire heat, if only for a 
few weeks, not alone on the score of economy 
—although this is a great, consideration in 
many gardens at the present time—hut be¬ 
cause it, gives him a respite from the constant 
watchfulness required to bo kept up against 
the insect enemies which are engendered by 
its use. Such relief has not, fallen to his lot 
this year, as vineries, Peaeh-houscs, and 
other" fruit-houses have needed the almost, 
constant use of artificial heat; and now that 
the houses are becoming cleared of fruit, it 
will not be well to leave the trees to take care 
of themselves and ripen as best they can. 
Early houses will not require any more firing, 
but it is those which are cleared of fruit 
from the present time of which I am speaking 
more particularly. A moderate heat in the 
pipes, with air oil the house, will greatly 
assist to harden the wood and plump lip the 
buds of the Vine. Peaches, after being 
thoroughly syringed in the morning, unless 
the weather should, by chance, be bright, 
will be better not wetted again in the after¬ 
noon, but close the house with the pipes 
warm, and turn off the heat the last thing in 
the evening, at the same time opening the 
ventilators a little way. This dry, warm air 
for several hours daily will have the effect, 
of hardening the wood and ripening the 
foliage, but a sharp look-out must be kept 
for red spider and thrips ; these pests should 
on no account be allowed upon the foliage. 

In addition to the judicious use of fire-heat, 
much may be done to further the ripening of 
the wood by removing all superfluous shoots. 
Immediately the fruit is all gathered, the 
trees should be loosened from the trellis, all 
the old ties being removed, replacing them 
with just sufficient fresh ones to maintain 
the trees in place. Cut out all the old wood 
which has borne fruit this year, as well as 
any pieces not wanted for tying in again. 
The rambling lateral growth, usually allowed 
to remain on Vines for Some time after the 
fruit is cut, may with advantage he reduced, 
not in a wholesale manner, but a little at a 
time, so as to gradually reduce the. shoots, 
leaving only those carrying the old and full 
grown leaves. If any crowding is noticed in 
the late houses cut. out a few shoots, but 
avoid removing any quantity at one time. 
This precaution is more than ever needful 
when bright, days come by fits and starts, 
ns they do this year, and great, care lias to bo 
exercised to prevent injury to both foliag* 
and fruit _by scorching. White Grapes aro 
often spoiled in appearance by being sud- 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 

























316 


G. 4RDEWING IL L USTK ■/ TED. 


August 31, 1907 


denly exposed to the sun with the object of 
hastening their colouring, and this is more 
liable to happen after dull weather, when a 
few hours’ exposure of the bunches which 
have been previously shaded is sufficient to 
turn many of the berries brown. As a rule, 
the best-finished bunches arc to bo found 
where they have received a subdued light 
through the foliage on all sides. 

Attention should also be directed to the 
surface of the borders, removing some of the 
mulching. When they are outside, this 
operation has been rendered necessary by 
the heavy and continuous rain, which has 
soddened the soil, and every facility should 
be given for this superfluous moisture to 
drain away. Many other minor details, such 
as keeping the houses clean, frequently re¬ 
moving dead leaves and other decaying 
materials, etc., will suggest themselves to 
the thoughtful cultivator. A. 


THE MANDRAKE IN FRUIT. 

The illustration show's the Mandrake in 
fruit in my garden. This particular Man 
drake is the male specimen, which flowers in 
March, the fruit being ripe in July. It grows, 
with me, in a very dry spot in ordinary 
garden soil. The many legends attached to 
the Mandrake are, doubtless, somewhat 
mythical, hut none the less interesting on 
that account, for there was never yet a myth 
without some foundation in fact.- Gerarde’s 
Herbal has a passage referring to the pro¬ 
perty the Mandrake was supposed to possess 


GROWING MELONS. 

I HAVE a span-roof greenhouse, 12 feet by 6 feet, 
facing east. It. is well heated by 3-incli pipes, and 
catches most of the sun. In it I should like to grow 
Melons and Cucumbers. Do you think that 1 should 
be able to manage them in this house? If so, would 
you be kind enough to give inc a few hints on their 
culture, as l have not had anything to do with 
Melons? Would you tell me what time to sow the 
seeds in spring?— Novice. 

[The month of March is the time to make a 
start., sowing the seed in 3-inch pots, 
say two seeds in a pot, thinning out all except 
the strongest seedling. The seed germinates 
beat in a temperature of 70 dogs, to 80 degs., 
and being of a fleshy nature, little or no 
moisture is needed until the seedlings appear. 
From this date they must be grow n near the 
glass in a temperature of 00 degs. To those 
without a warm house it is better to wait 
until April or even May, as then one gets 
quicker growth at the start. In four weeks 
from sowing the seed the Melons will be 
ready to plant out. Give half-a-bushel of soil 
to each plant, and make the soil firm in the 
bed. ns Melons like a firm root-run. Mix a 
goodly proportion of clay with it, and, if too 
heavy, a little old mortar-rubble or wood- 
ashes. As regards 

Training, much depends upon the house. 
If in a house and to travel up the roof, 
allow 2 feet of growth before stopping the 
leader, and the plants then throw out side- 
shoots. These ere trained in opposite direc¬ 
tions to each other, or sideways, at a distance 
of 1 foot apart. These side-shoots need stop- 


soil within 18 inches of the glass. Keep the 
growth thin, and less syringing is needed. 
Once a day will suffice.] 


NOTES AND HE ELIES. 

Pears cracked- I should he much obliged if you 
could tell me what is the matter with enclosed Pear? 
1 have a standard Pear tree, planted three years 
ago. It is covered with fruit this year, but it.is all 
like enclosed specimen. What is the matter with it, 
and what should I do for it?—G. II. 

[Your Pears have been attacked by a fungus 
(C'ladosporium dendriticum), which has 
caused the cracking of the skin and black 
spots on the furit. Open a trench in the 
autumn round the tree at about 3 feet from 
the stem, cut off all the roots, ami grub under 
with a chisel, cutting off all downward roots. 
Then refill, the trench with fresh soil. Re¬ 
move several inches of the top soil over the 
roots and replace with some fresh loam, mixed 
with a little manure. After you have done 
this syringe the tree with the caustic alkali 
solution, which has been so frequently re¬ 
ferred to in these pages.] 

Neglected fruit-trees- I shall be grateful if 
you will advise me what to do? My fruit-bushes 
have done well, but I find they have not been pro¬ 
perly pruned for years (I have only just come), and 
there is a good deal of dead wood. When should 
this be cut away, and when should they be pruned? 
There are good old fruit-trees in the same condition. 
Should they be pruned hard this year? Do you ap¬ 
prove of summer pruning, so that the fruit can get 
more sun? We have had it done to Peaches and 
Apricots. Are Fig-trees pruned after fruiting?—E n- 
Ql'IRKR. 

[Your best course with your neglected fruit- 
bushes will lie to hard cut out at once most of 
the old and all the dead wood in them, burn¬ 
ing it. Lightly fork the soil over the roots, 
and give to jeach bush a thick coat of half- 
decayed manure. That will feed the roots 
and encourage the making of strong, new 
shoots next year. There is no need to wait 
till the winter to do this. Your old fruit- 
trees need hard pruning, also cutting of the 
thinner branches close to the main stems with 
a saw, then paring off the cut surface with a 
sharp knife, and coating it over with tar or 
painters’ knotting. If the trees are mossy, 
have them coated with fresh made lime white, 
using a brush for the purpose, and if any of 
the branches are out of reach, dust, them 
heavily with dry lime. That cleanses the 
trees. Those, too, will he all the better for a 
heavy mulch or coat of manure. Summer 
priming is proper for your wall-trees, but is 
not. needed for old or tall trees in the open. 
Cut out your Fig-tree branches that have 
carried fruit, and at once nail or tie in the 
present season’s young ones, to help them to 
harden or ripen.] 

Cankered Apple shoots - I shall be grateful if 
you can tell me wliafc causes the disease on the 
Apple-shoots sent? The trees received a severe check 
from caterpillars in spring. A. N. 

|The shoots from your Apple-!rces show 
they arc affected with a form of canker that 
is not uncommon in both Apples and Pears 
when the roots of the trees are in poor or 
sour subsoil, where they fail to find the need¬ 
ful food or soil elements to enable them to 
make sound, mature growths. Whilst you 
may, early in the winter, cut the branches 
hard back, raking up and burning all the 
trimmings, also giving them two sprayings at 
intervals of a month with the caustic alkali 
solution, you will still find unless you can 
either lift the trees and replant them more 
shallow, hard trimming the downward roots, 
or else so root pruning them that all down¬ 
ward roots are severed, also putting about 
the upper roots fresh surface soil and manure, 
very little good will be done. Basie slag, 
bone-meal, and muriate of potash are good 
chemical manures, and a good dressing of 
half-decayed stable-manure is the best of 
animal manures.] 

Diseased Peaches (H\ 0. A'.).—Without seeing 
the actual conditions under which your Peach-tree is 
growing, the nature of the house, the amount of 
light and air admitted, the nature of the soil and 
whether it be kept dry or fairly moist, it is practi¬ 
cally impossible from the few words sent to come to 
any conclusion as to the cause. Still, we suspect the 
trouble lies with the roots. You say they do not 
want water. Perhaps the soil is moist on the sur¬ 
face and ve r y dry low down, or the roots may have 
got out of good soil down into poor, sour, or dry- 
soil. and cannot find nutriment. Probably your best 
course, if the floor of the house admits of it, is for 
you to remove the soil over the roots, t-o lift them, 
and replace them more shallow in fresh loam, with 
some wood-ashes and hone-dust mixed with- it. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



Fruit of the Mandrake. From a photograph by- Stella L. Hamilton.* 


of restoring life to the dying. Then we are 
told of its screaming roots when uprooted, of 
which Shakespeare said, “And shrieks like 
Mandrakes torn out of the earth, that living 
mortals, hearing them, go mad.” And of 
the old idea that it was engendered under 
earth of the corpse of a person put to death 
for murder. It was in olden times used as 
an anaesthetic. The apples of the Man¬ 
drake have a soporiferous property, and 
Hamilcar, the Carthagenian Captain, is said 
to have infected the wine of the Lihians with 
“the apples of Mandrake, whereby they, 
being made exceedingly drowsy, he obtained 
a famous victory over them.” 

I have had the plant four years, but this 
singularly wet season is the first time it has 
fruited. A. M. Wakefield. 

Nutwood , Grange over Sands, Lanes. 


Apricot Musch-Musch. -Th is, though a 
very small-fruited variety, is richly flavoured, 
and is generally very juicy. This season, 
the fruits, though later in ripening, have 
been excellent, and formed a nice addition to 
the dessert. Unfortunately, it is more ten¬ 
der than other varieties, and the points of 
the young growths often get caught if frost6 
are prevalent in the early spring months. 
Such was the case this season, but the crop 
remained unaffected. In a normal season 
the fruits should ripen about the end of July, 
and are distinguishable from other varieties 
by their being round and flattened on the 
crown, the colour of the skin also being 
paler. A delicious preserve can be made 
from this Apricot. 


Digitiz 


)t -A. W. 

Google 


ping when 12 inches to 18 inches long, 
shorter, if showing fruit. Both male and 
female flowers will show, and the latter will 
need fertilising—that is, the pollen from one 
taken to the other. During the setting 
period the plants should not be syringed over¬ 
head, but up to this period syringing freely 
twice daily from planting is necessary. This 
is a good time to add soil to the roots— 
say, another half-bushel to each plant-. This 
may he richer, having a portion of some fer 
tiliser. such as bone-meal, the soil being made 
firm with a rammer or the hack of the spade, 
the new material being mostly placed over the 
surface roots in the form of a top dressing. 
After setting two to four fruits on each plant, 
allow the growth to make several joints be¬ 
yond the fruits. This assists in swelling, 
and as the fruits develop, food may be given 
freely in the shape of liquid manure. The 
j temperature for plants in the early spring 
should be genial, not lower than 00 degs. at 
night, with 10 degs. more by day, with more 
as the fruits ripen, and not much ventilation 
until the thermometer reaches 00 degs. Avoid 
cold draughts, close early in the afternoon, 
and cover the glass at night if grown in 
frames and the heat is low. Failures often 
occur through too much feeding before the 
fruit is set. Melons are often badly attacked 
by red-spider; this is caused by cold 
draughts, a too dry atmosphere, or excessive 
heat. This may be avoided by using the 
syringe freely during early grow-th. Never 
water close to the stem, and use tepid water. 
Melons in frames require less water than in 
I houses, and should he grown on mounds of 







August 31, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


347 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 

THE FRINGE-TREES (CHIONANTIIUS). 
Apart from any other consideration, the 
Fringe-trees are interesting as furnishing an 
illustration of the affinity that exists between 
the flora of North America and that of Japan. 
Of the two species that are in cultivation, 
one, 

Chionanthus virginiou8 , is a native of the 
United States, and the other, Chionanthus 
retusus, comes to us from Japan. The 
American form is, in the United States, held 
in high estimation as a flowering tree, but in 
this country it is by no means common, 
though there is no difficulty in obtaining it 
from nurseries. While this Chionanthus is 
regarded as a tree, it must be looked upon 
here more as a large shrub, somewhat after 


can relative in being a smaller and more 
slender plant, while the clusters of flowers are 
usually less dense. It is quite hardy, but is 
often shown in pots and flowered under glass. 
It is in this way very pretty, and furnishes a 
decided break away from the flowering shrubs 
usually treated in this manner. X. 


NOTES AND REPLIES . 

Pruning Hollies.- I have a large Ilolly growing 
in a clump of hybrid Rhododendrons. The branches 
of the Holly overtop the Rhododendrons, and I wish 
to cut them down to the level of the Rhododendrons. 
Please inform me the best time of year to cut the 
Holly?—A. H. 

[The best time for cutting Hollies is early 
in March, just before the trees begin to grow. 
Never trim Hollies with shears, but use a 
sharp knife. Unless absolutely necessary, it 
is a mistake to cut Hollies at all, as they are 


of no consequence when it is transplanted, 
but that is not what is contemplated. At 
midsummer, unless the roots are abundant 
and in good condition, evaporation from the 
leaves and trunk is in excess of the supply of 
moisture from the root, and the tree withers, 
if it does not die—doing no good that season 
at least, so that at the best nothing is gained, 
and a good deal may lie lost. In March, 
April, and May, and again in August, Sep¬ 
tember. and October, all these influences are 
moderated, and the vital forces of the tree 
and temperature of the earth and air are 
more nearly adjusted, so to speak, and unite 
to promote that root action which is of the 
first importance in all transplanted trees, be- 
; cause, although excessive heat and moisture 
i may cause an apparent growth of the shoots 
. for a short time at first, no real progress can 
take place till roots arc formed. Whether 



The Fringe-tree (Chionanthus retusus). From a photograph in a Surrey garden. 


the manner of a Lilac. It is, however, of 
more sturdy habit, and the leaves are as much 
as 6 inches or 8 inches long, broadly lanceo¬ 
late in shape, while the flowers, from whence 
the name of Fringe-tree is derived, are very 
unlike those of all other hardy shrubs. These 
blossoms are composed of a number of nar¬ 
row white petals, and arranged in a many- 
flowered raceme that greatly resembles at a 
little distance a cluster of ribbons, or fringe. 
Its usual season of flowering is in June, and 
when the upper part of the plant is crowned 
by a mass of these elegant plurne-like blos¬ 
soms, few, if any, more pleasing shrubs are 
at that time to be met with. Like several 
other North American shrubs, the Fringe-tree 
requires a somewhat cool and moist soil, more 
of a sandy than a heavy nature. 

Chionanthus retusus, for whose intro¬ 
duction we are, I beliay?> indebted tl the 
late Robert Fortune, dffer|tfrlkia itOVntefc- 


alvvays seen at their best when allowed to grow 
naturally.] 

The time to transplant trees. There is 
a right and a wrong season for such work, and 
I think most growers will admit that mid¬ 
summer and mid-winter are the two wrong, 
and autumn and spring the two right seasons. 
The reason why transplanting is not advis¬ 
able at mid-winter is that the vitality of all 
plants is at its lowest at that season, and 
there is not sufficient heat in either the air 
or the soil to excite growth, and thereby 
heal over the mutilated roots and give the 
tree even a feeble hold. Its animation is all 
but completely suspended, and it is at (lie 
mercy of the season and all its vicissitudes. 
There is, indeed, absolutely nothing to be 
said in favour of transplanting in winter. 
As to summer planting, it is open to an oppo¬ 
site set of objections. Of course, provided a 
tree is moved with all its roots intact, it is 


spring or autumn is best depends much on 
circumstances. An early, dry, and warm 
summer tries all kinds or newly transplanted 
trees and shrubs, unless water is abundant 
and judiciously applied, and an early and 
severe winter is even worse for autumn- 
moved trees.—G. 

Rhus Cotinus. This, known as the Vene¬ 
tian Sumach, Burning Bush, and Wig Plant, 
is certainly one of the most distinct of all 
our hardy shrubs, for at this season a flower¬ 
ing example could not possibly, even by the 
uninitiated, be confounded with any other 
occupant of our gardens. It naturally forms 
a spreading shrub, often from 0 feet to 8 feet 
in height, and occasionally more, and clothed 
with ovate leaves, each about a couple of 
inches long, which change to a bright yellow 
in autumn before they drop. The insignifi¬ 
cant flowers are borne in large, branching 
panicles, and, many being abortive, the 




348 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


August 31, 1907 


thread-like (stalks develop considerably, thus 
forming dense, wig-like masses of a distinct 
reddish shade, varying in intensity, according 
t<» the standpoint from which they are viewed. 
4\ hen lit up bv the rays of the declining sun, 
the popular name of Burning Bush is very 
apparent. There are two varieties of this 
Rhus—viz., atropurpurea, whose leaves, young 
wood, and flower-panicles are tinged* with 
purple, while in addition the inflorescence is 
more dense than that of the common kind. 
The second variety, pendula, is of a decided 
weeping habit. This Rhus will hold its own 
in poor, dry, stony soils ; indeed, it should 
not be planted in too moist and rich a spot, 
otherwise the colouring is less bright than 
where more exposed. Of wide geographical 
distribution, Rhus C'otiniis occurs throughout 
Middle ami Southern Europe, extending 
through the Orient, Cashmere, the Himalayas, 
to China. Being cheap and readily obtain¬ 
able, this Rhus might be more often planted 
than it is.—X. 

£sculus indica. This rare member of the 
llorse Chestnut family is particularly note¬ 
worthy from the fact that it is later in‘flower¬ 
ing than any other member of the genus, in¬ 
cluding even the comparatively small growing 
ASsculua parviflora, formerly known as Pavia 
macrostachya, which has long enjoyed the 
reputation of being the last to bloom. The 
Indian species is, from a foliage point of view, 
quite distinct from the common Horse Chest 
nut, the leaflets being very wide-spreading, 
and having red stalks and midribs. The in¬ 
florescence is much after the manner of the 
common kind, hut is decidedly narrower, 
forming, in fact, almost a spike*. The indi 
vidual blooms hear a considerable amount of 
resemblance to those of the ordinary form. 
A free-growing, somewhat upright habited 
tree, ^Esculus indica is well worth the atten¬ 
tion of planters for ornament, hut, unfor 1 
Innately, it is very difficult to obtain from 
nurseries. It is a native of the Western Hima¬ 
layas, and occurs at an elevation of 8,000 feet 
to 10,000 feet, where it is said to attain a size 
equal to the common Horse Chestnut. It was 
first introduced in 1828, hut was soon lost to 
cultivation, and was reintroduced in 1844, 
hut, as above stated, it is even now quite a 
rare tree. The small-growing JEsculus parvi¬ 
flora, alluded to at the beginning of this note, 
forms a large mass, or clump, from the num¬ 
ber of suckers which are pushed up. The 
handsome, wrinkled foliage is of a particularly 
deep green tint, and, in July, when the long 
spikes of white flowers, with their long, pro¬ 
minent stamens, are at their best, it forms a 
delightful object.—G. S. C. 

Spanish Broom (Sparttuin junoeum).- 1 
am in entire accord with all that “X.” ad¬ 
vances regarding the merits of this shrub ns 
an ornamental flowering subject, either for 
the pleasure grounds or the wild garden. It 
is very free flowering, and its deep yellow 
blossoms render a group of it a very telling 
object in the landscape, and visible for a long 
distance. 1 find the best way to increase it is 
to save a few pods of seeds, as it seeds very 
freely, sow them singly in small pots, and 
place them in a cold-pit to germinate, 
which they do in the course of a Few days. 
This mode of raising the plants averts dis¬ 
turbance of the tap-root, and at the same 
time is a very convenient way of transferring 
the plants to wherever they may have to he 
planted. If the halls are well soaked prior 
to turning them out of the pots, and well 
watered afterwards, the plants may he left to 
take care of themselves. A stake should he 
placed for the support of each plant until the 
roots obtain a thorough hold of the soil. 
Some plants raised and treated in this wav 
about two years ago arc now fine hushes, each 
from 5 feet to 6 feet in height.—A. \V. 

Ampelopsis Veltchl dying I had a hirce Ain- 
pcIop'dH Yeitchi. which extended about lj feet ulunp 
a wall some l. r > feet high, and from there climbed 
up the house, which is a tall one. About a fort¬ 
night ago all the leaves from the top to the bottom 
turned inside out, and the whole thing was, and is 
now, apparently dead. There are no signs of it hav¬ 
ing been struck by lightning. Can you suggest any 
reason for its dying o!T in this manner? It has been 
in the same place for many years. — Arthur F. Kvass. 

Index to Volume XXVIII. The binding covers 
fprice Is. 6d. each, post free. is. «.*d.) and Index (3d., 
p«.-t free, sjd.i for VolurTTPvX X V111. are flow ready, 
and rimy lie bad of af im warrants, />IVp/t>e Pub- 
b'li. r, |io ; free, fo \tlVt| V [y. 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

INDOOR PLANT3. 

TREATMENT OF LIL1UMS. 

At the present time I have a fine display of 
Liliums in pote—principally L. auratum— 
and as the point in their culture to which I 
wish to draw attention has to do with the 
plants after they pass out of bloom, the pre¬ 
sent would be the best time to allude to it. 
In some gardens the bulbB of Lilium auratum 
have a tendency to degenerate, or die alto¬ 
gether ; whereas, if they are carefully 
managed, they will increase in vigour year 
by year. This failure to maintain a vigorous 
growth is caused, I believe, by either neglect¬ 
ing the plant*; after the blooms fade, or 
giving them improper treatment. Any plant, 
bulbous or otherwise, when grown in a pot, 
is perfectly under control, and if pot plants 
fail to do well, the reason ought to be sought 
for and the remedy applied. When a Lilium 
has produced its flowers, the work of the 
plant is not over for the season, and the bulbs 
will not ripen as they ought to do unless 
this plain fact is recognised. The plants, it 
must be admitted, are not very ornamental 
after the flowers fade, hut this is no reason 
why they should be turned out-of-doors, 
crowded together, and either neglected for 
want of water at the root*;, or deluged with 
heavy autumnal rains. 1 have seen bulbs 
turned out of their pots in October with the 
soil soaking wet, and as a result of this the 
fibrous roots quite dead, the bulbs black at 
the base, and dropping to pieces with a 
touch of the fingers. L. auratum bulbs in 
this state arc not worth looking after; throw 
them on the rubbish heap, and purchase a 
fresh lot in a healthy state. 

When the bulbs are in good condition, they 
will be found enclosed in a mass of active 
fibrous roots, which are matted so closely to¬ 
gether that the hall is not easily broken up; 
half of them are stem roots, and the others 
have issued from the base of the bulbs. It 
is, perhaps, a wise provision of Nature that 
the roots which have issued freely from the 
base of the stems form over the vital part of 
the bulbs a network almost impenetrable to 
rain. After the plants have done flowering, 
they are placed together in a cool green¬ 
house, where they are freel}' exposed to light 
and air, and receive only sufficient water to 
keep the soil from becoming dust-dry. Oc¬ 
tober is the month in which to pot the bulbs. 
Before doing so, the old steins are wrenched 
out at their base, with all the roots attached 
to them. The bulb roots are disturbed hut 
little, and if the bulbs themselves have suffi¬ 
ciently increased in size they are shifted into 
largpr pots accordingly. Good potting soil 
for Liliuin auratum. L. laneifolium, L. longi- 
floruin, and. indeed, most of the genus, is 
two parts good fibrous loam, one part fibrous 
peat, and a little leaf-mould and sand. 1 
mostly add to it some broken up charcoal, hut 
I am not sure if this is really beneficial. The 
rootsdo not seem to attach themselves to char¬ 
coal, hut rather avoid it. Plenty of drainage is 
necessary. It is not safe to plunge the pots 
containing the bulbs out-of-doors. The winter 
rains injure or destroy many of the bulbs 
when placed in such a position, even if they 
are plunged where water drains rapidly 
aw ay. 

Some persons think that under the stage of 
a greenhouse is a safe and convenient resting 
place for the winter. Probably this treat¬ 
ment. is worse than placing them out-of-doors, 
as some of them mav he too dry, while others 
are soaking wet. The best place is a cold 
frame; if they are plunged in Coooa'nut-fibre, 
the lights need only be placed there to pre¬ 
vent them from getting too wet; but if the 
soil is moderately moist when the bulbs are 
potted, no water will he required until they 
have made an inch or more of growth in the 
spring. D. 


Eulalia japonica variegata. A very 
pretty foliage plant for the greenhouse and 
for table decoration during the summer 
months is to lie found iu Eulalia japonica 
variegata, a narrow, striped-leaved plant of 
an almost Grass like habit. It does well in a 


greenhouse from which frost is excluded in 
winter, and makes a charming addition to a 
table with a pot or two of Ferns or Aspara¬ 
gus ; moreover, it is easily propagated by 
division of roots in spring, at which period it 
is well to subject it to a slightly increased 
temperature. Any soil in which leaf mould 
and loam predominate suits the Eulalia.— 
Townsman. 


THE WAX-FLOWER (HOYA CARNOSA). 

Would you kindly give me the winter treatment of 
the Wav-flower? I only know it as ” Seven-star.” — 
Novice. 

[The best known and most useful species of 
illi« handsome genus are H. carnosa, a fast- 
growing creeper, and H. liella, a dwarf and 
more delicate-growing kind. Both have 
thick fleshy leaves, and produce abundantly, 
for a considerable period in summer, clusters 
of wax like flowers, from the centre of which 
exudes a single drop of honey like fluid, which 
haa led to their receiving the name of honey- 
plants. 

Although these two Bpecies of Hoya are 
commonly classed as stove plants, and they 
may, indeed, be cultivated successfully in a 
stove, yet H. carnosa will grow equally well 
in an intermediate or warm greenhouse, and 
will often flower more freely in such a struc¬ 
ture than in the stove, simply because its 
drier atmosphere leads to the better matura¬ 
tion of the wood, without which flowers must 
be scanty. In the stove the plant should 
stand in the full sunshine during the time 
the growth is being made. When grown in a 
low temperature it must not be over-watered 
in winter; indeed, during that period this 
class of plants should lie kept comparatively 
dry. If ever disease overtakes the plants, it 
is generally caused by using too large pots, 
anu plying the watering-pot too freely in 
winter, when hut little root action is taking 
place. Very large plants of H. carnosa can 
be grown in very small pots; indeed, wo saw 
a large plant once growing on the back wall 
of a damp stove that had absolutely no soil 
at all. It had originally been planted in a 
small chink of a border in the back path, but 
the branches, wherever they touched the 
damp surface of the wall, had thrown out 
roots like those which the Ivy generally and 
the Fig sometime^ do. and when we saw it 
the connection with the border had been 
severed for a long time without having pro¬ 
duced any effect upon the plant’s health or 
progress. Both H. carnosa and H. l>.*lla 
make admirable basket plants; indeed, they 
show to better advantage treated in that 
way than in any other, as their drooping 
flowers seem intended to he seen from be¬ 
neath. H. India is especially a choice sub¬ 
ject for a basket, but its culture must he con¬ 
fined to the stove. It is not so hardy or ro¬ 
bust in constitution as H. carnosa, hut it 
is more elegant in appearance, and in a 
choice collection of stove plants it will always 
attract attention. 

Culture. —Hoyas arc impatient of stag¬ 
nant moisture about their roots, and the 
material forming the root medium must he 
of a porous character. In potting specimens 
of considerable size, the pots must be well 
drained ; more attention should he paid to 
this, in this case, than is customary or even 
necessary for the general run of stove plants. 
The soil should consist of about equal parts 
of good, turfy loam and peat, pulled to pieces 
with the hand, and the fine, light particles 
should be shaken out, so that only the turf 
remains; to this should he added about a 
sixth part, of sand and the same quantity of 
broken charcoal. In such material the plants 
may he firmly potted, leaving sufficient space 
at the top, in proportion to the size of pot 
used, for giving water, as in the growing sea 
son the plants delight in and require a liberal 
supply of moisture both at the root and in 
the atmosphere. It is only stagnation that 
must he avoided. In potting small plants 
the turf should he broken up small, but never 
sifted. The best position for H. carnosa, if 
grown in a pot. is trained on a wire trellis 
just under the roof, or it may he trained 
over a wire trainer, either globular or of any 
other desired”shape. H. holla must be neatly 
supported with small stakes but. no more 
than are_ necessary ^houhl he used, as they 



August 31. 1907 


GARDENING IL L VSTRATI!D. 


319 



add nothing to its beauty, and the roots of 
a plant are often injured by having the ball 
honeycombed with stakes. Most of the Hoy as 
are readily increased by cuttings of soft, 
young shoots in sandy soil in a brisk bottom 
heat, either with or without the assistance of 
a bell-glass. If a plant should become sickly, 
it is best to start afresh with a young one, 
and Hoyas are so easily propagated that a 
few young plants of H. bella might always be 
coming on. Plants in a bad state of health 
are difficult to restore, as it. in nearly all 
cases, arises from decay of the roots through 
imperfect drainage, or the 9oil having become 
close and sour.] 

THE ZEPHYRANTHES. 

To the Zephyranthes Herbert applied the 
poetical title of “Flower of the West Wind,” 
the wind that takes its name from Zephyrus, 
the mythological god of the soft breeze, 
which blew from the sunset over the fabled 
Hesperides—the Fortunate Islands—that 
dreamed ever in the golden track of the sink¬ 
ing sun, just beneath the Western horizon, 
and ever just beyond the ken of mortal 
vision, heralding the spring and the break¬ 
ing into life of all vegetation. The Anemone, 


warm, wall-backed borders in the south-west, 
and is certainly the finest species for cultiva¬ 
tion in the open air, a group of twenty or 
j thirty plants in full bloom having a charming 
effect in August and September. There is 
said to be a variety of this plant which bears 
| rosy flowers. 

Z. Candida, the Peruvian Swamp Lily. 

• bears white, Crocus-like blooms, about half 
| the size of these of Z. Atamasco. It has 
I proved fairly hardy, and does well in warm 
| borders, where it is a pretty sight when pro¬ 
ducing its white flowers above its Rush-like 
! foliage. It succeeds planted at the edge of 
I a narrow border in which Belladonna Lilies 
j are grown, the flowers of the two, which are 
expanded at the same time, making a charm¬ 
ing contrast. Where it flourishes it multi 
plies very rapidly, both by offsets and by self- 
sown seedlings. 

Z. carinata, from Mexico, bears bright 
I rose flowers, each about 4 inches across. It 
is a charming plant, but cannot compare with 
, Z. Atamasco for culture in the open. I have 
flowered it well now and again, but never in 
consecutive years, whereas Z. Atamasco 
blooms profusely season after season. 

Z. An person i is a small flower, rather less 
i in size than Z. Candida, and is yellow, 


Z. Spofforthiana produces large pink 
blossoms. 

The only species that can be recommended 
for outdoor culture in this country are Z. 
Atamasco and Z. Candida. In warm borders 
in the south both of these should do well. At 
Kew Z. Candida is perfectly at home, and 
increases rapidly. 

S. W. Fitzherbert. 

South Devon. 


The Atamasco Lily (Zephyranthes Atamasco). From a photograph by Mr. S. W. Fitzherbert, Kingswear, South 


or Windflower, beautiful though it is, has 
not the advantage of the Zephyranthes, for 
it is dedicated to every wind that blows, 
rude Boreas and Eurus, the north and east 
winds, ae well as the softer caresses of south 
and west. 

Possessing such a gracious title as the 
Zephyranthes do, their flowers may natu¬ 
rally be expected to be dowered with a high 
degree of attractiveness, as, indeed, they are, 
being delicate in form and soft in colouring. 
Such species as Z. Atamasco and Z. Candida 
may well be grown in the open in warm 
borders, but the other species arc usually 
eeen at their best under glass. Whether 
grown in pots or in the open, they should be 
provided with a porous, gritty soil, since 
even those species which in their native land 
flourish in boggy ground fail to retain their 
health if planted in retentive soil. The 
Zephyr an thee are bulbous plants, the ma¬ 
jority of which are natives of the southern 
portions of America. 

The be«t known species are the follow¬ 
ing : — 

Z. Atamasco, sometimes styled the Ata- 
masco Lily. This is a native of the southern 
United States, where it is found in low, 
marshy spots. Its floweror^orne on st|in« 
a foot in height, are pufe wlgt*, aD#jf|np> 
ea to 5 inches Vt/sHccpC#Vu 


flushed with red on the exterior. I have 
flowered it in the open, but it would probably 
succeed best under glass. 

Z. CITRINA, from tropical America, bears 
bright yellow flowers, and requires heat. 

Z macrosiphon, a Mexican species, bears 
bright, rose-red flowers, each 5 inches across, 
on stems a foot in length. 

Z. MESOCHLOA, from Buenos Ayres, pro¬ 
duces w'liite flowers, each 3 inches across, 
and tinted with red on the exterior. 1 have 
flowered it, but not very satisfactorily, in the 
open. 

Z. rosea is a native of Cuba, and bears 
rose-coloured flowers, much resembling those 
of Z. carinata, but smaller. It is said to 
have bloomed well in the open, but it is 
doubtful if it would ever become sufficiently 
at home to flower annually. 

Z. SES8ILIH, from Mexico, bears small 
| white flowers, suffused with red on the out- 
I side. It is a greenhouse plant. 

Z. TreatI/K, a native of Florida, is nearly 
allied to Z. Atamasco, but not so handsome, 
j lt.s white flowers are marked with a line of 
red running up the centre of each petal on 
the exterior. It will grow in the open. 

Z. TUBI8PATHA, from the West Indies, 

I hears white flowers 4 inches across, tinted 
with green. It is best grown in the green- 
I house, hut ha a flowered m a warm border. 


NOTES AND ItEPLIES. 
Rondeletia speciosa major.— This hand- 
| some-flowered Mexican shrub is usually 
given stove treatment; but a specimen in the 
Heath House at Kew, associated with the 
coolest of greenhouse plants, shows that such 
an amount of heat is not necessary, for the 
flowers are, from their greater exposure, 
more vividly coloured than usual. At one 
time, when specimen plants used to be 
largely grown and exhibited, this Rondeletia 
" r as a general favourite for treating in this 
wav, but with the decline of large specimens, 
it is not so frequently seen. 'This, however, 
need not be a bar to its culture, for it is 
| of a very accommodating nature, ns neat 
little bushes may be flowered well in pots 
G inches in diameter, while trained 
up at the end of a structure it forms 
a delightful screen plant. This Ron- 
deletia is too well known to need anv 
particular description, hence it will 
suffice to point out that the bright 
scarlet-crimson-coloured flowers are 
borne in neat rounded clusters on 
the points of the shoots. This Ron¬ 
deletia will thrive in a mixture of 
loam, peat, and sand, the repotting, 
when necessary, being carried out in 
the spring, at which time the tem¬ 
perature of an intermediate house 
will suit it well. One caution to be 
observed is that if the atmosphere is 
too dry, the foliage is very liable to 
be attacked by red-spider, but little 
else is likely to give any particular 
trouble. Though the name as above 
is in general use in gardens and nur¬ 
series, the correct ope. according to 
the Kew Hand List, is Rondeletia 
odorata. — X. 

The Crape Myrtle (Lagerstrcemia 
indica).—In the rage for novelties, 
many old plants of sterling merit are 
apt to be overlooked, and in the 
front rank of these may well be 
placed this beautiful shrub, which, 
without any particular care or atten¬ 
tion. will be about this season 
heavily laden with its bright rose- 
pink-coloured flowers, whose beauti¬ 
fully crimped and frilled petals add 
so much to the attractiveness of the 
specimen. It is a plant that is al- 
Devon. most hardy, yet it is frequently kept 
in a stove, where, as a rule, it, grows 
freely, but flowers little. The best 
I place for this in order to flower it successfully 
is ail intermediate bouse during the growing 
season, and it may be wintered in a lower 
! temperature, as upon the winter’s re6t will 
I the future display of blossoms to a great ex- 
! tent depend. There are two varieties, in 
! one of which the blooms are lighter in colour 
than that above mentioned, and not so 
showy in a mass. These Lageastroemias are 
known as Indian Lilacs and Crape Myrtles. 
They can be easily propagated by cuttings 
of the young slioote put in during the sum¬ 
mer and kept clo^e till rooted; or cuttings 
of the older wood may be put in at any time 
i during the autumn, and will strike fairly well 
if kept in a greenhouse. 

Balsams in autumn.-*Very much may he done 
towards rendering a greenliou.se beautiful in the 
| autumn by growing annuals in pots, and though, 
perhaps, Balsams are not so largely grown as they 
| once were, they are. nevertheless, attractive. We 
sometimes say, in reference to a certain plant, " that 
it pays for good culture,” and certainly to no annual 
I is such a remark so applicable as Balsams—in¬ 
deed, by giving them good loam, well enriched with 
manure, and a fair sized pot, administering liquid- 
manure from time to time, one may obtain stout 
specimens studded with quantities of wax like blooms. 
For blooming in spring, when it necessary to sow 
the seeds m heat.-pne -U sometimes confronted by a 
number damping oft. hut sown later lor an autumn 
I display, fcw.f^.pLKAiq/RST. 






350 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


August 31, 190? 


CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

SEASONABLE NOTES. 
Chrysanthemums, for whatever object they 
may be grown, need at this time of the year 
much attention, as, unless the necessary de¬ 
tails are carried out at the proper time, suc¬ 
cess cannot follow. Plants which are culti¬ 
vated for large blooms have, as a rule, made 
strong growth this season, are inclined to 
he tall, and in 6oine localities do not appear 
to be ripening well. Cultivators living in 
wet or low-lying districts will feel the effect 
of this more 60 than those who reside on 
higher, and consequently drier, parts. It is 
necessary that the wood be sufficiently ripe 
to produce the finest, flowers. There is not 
much fear this season of premature ripening 
of the stems, thereby causing the tissues to 
be contracted. The best means to have the 
wood as it should be this season is not to 
over-feed the plants with strong stimulants, 
but apply these moderately, eo that the 
growth may be built up solidly as it proceeds. 
Never allow any surplus side-shoots to re¬ 
main longer than is necessary, but remove 
them at once. It is surprising how soon the 
plants appear to run wild\if at all neglected, 
even for a few days. The continuous wet 
and cold weather at this time of the year 
is all against ripe wood; keep the shoots 
spread out thinly, tying them securely as 
growth proceeds, so that all parts may receive 
the benefit of whatever sun and dry air there 
may be. 

The selection of the buds will occupj' much 
time at the present. Upon this being pro¬ 
perly done, much of the success depends,, 
when November comes round. Syringing the 
plants has been little needed this season, 
with the exception of a few times when the 
final potting was done and when the weather 
was warmer. In dry weather the plants 
should be examined at the least twice each 
day. In showery weather it is impossible to 
know whether the soil be dry or not by ex¬ 
ternal appearance only; sounding the pots 
with the knuckles is the readiest means of 
knowing accurately. The plants should have 
enough water; better really to keep the soil 
at times rather dry than in a soddened state. 
Tf the soil is too wet, the wood cannot ripen 
so readily while the buds are forming, which 
can easily be ascertained by the pushing of 
growth shoots from all nodes below the apex. 
Stimulants which tend to excite the plants 
should not be given ; withhold any support 
in this way until after the buds are formed 
and commence to swell, which they quickly 
do directly they are set. Any plants not yet 
arrived at the bud-formation stage, if 
thoroughly well rooted, should have an oeca- 
sionarchange in the diet of stimulants, not, 
forgetting to use soot-water now and again, 
as this acts quickly on the foliage of pale¬ 
looking plants. Sometimes the soil will be¬ 
come water logged through defective drain¬ 
age ; so much so that the leaves turn sickly 
at the base and ultimately fall off. The best 
way to remedy this is by turning the plant 
out of the pot, removing the defective drain¬ 
age, and replacing it by more, which should 
be perfectly clean. Oftentimes new drainage 
is awkward to place in the pot, so that the 
ball of soil sits level on the bottom of the 
pot; if this is not so, the top part of the ball 
of soil is thrown out of the level, w ater can¬ 
not be given to the plant in sufficient quan¬ 
tity, as the top of the soil is above the pot; 
the surface being full of healthy roots, which 
are the feeders, therefore cannot be removed 
without causing a check to the plants. The 
best way to remedy defective drainage is to 
take the stem of the plant in one hand, lift 
the ball of soil out of the pot, keeping the 
plant upright, remove all the drainage from 
the roots, over the hole in the pot place a 
hollow' crock, around this lay others, then 
fill the pot to the desired level with clean 
washed gravel, which can he raised to any 
height, and adjust the plant. 

Plants growing at the foot of walls are 
making rapid growth. If the growths are 
kept fastened to the wall the appearance of 
the plants is much improved. Many of the 
plants are now forming a natural break, and 
as fast as this takes^plare all till additional 
shoots should bewhiu^ea ou |the desired 


number; a good guide will be 4 inches space 
between the shoots. The plants this year 
have needed scarcely any water, but should 
the weather be fine and dry, a thorough soak¬ 
ing at the roots with liquid manure will be of 
service later on. 

A sharp look-out should be kept for mil¬ 
dew, which often attacks the plants at this 
time of the year on the under 6ides of the 
leaves, particularly during such weather as 
we have lately had. In stubborn cases, 
where dry sulphur fails to act, and it is not 
easily applied to the under side of the leaves, 
more severe measures must be resorted to. 
Place 2 lb. of sulphur and the same quantity 
of lime, which has not been slaked, in 10 
quarts of water, and boil for twenty minutes. 
For syringing on the plants use two wine- 
glassfuls of the mixture to four gallons of 
clean cold water. A syringe with the jet 
affixed, causing a single stream, is the best 
method of applying the liquid. By placing 
the forefinger over the orifice, tlie liquid 
can be directed upwards, and spread over 
the plants where required. 


EAltLY FLOWERING CHRYSANTHE¬ 
MUMS. 

Another Sport of the Masse Family. 

A few days sines I saw r a new sport of this 
interesting family. This is a beautiful rich 
bronze from George Bowness, the crushed- 
strawberry member of this family. The rich¬ 
ness of the bronze colouring of the new sport 
is its chief charm, and there is liltle doubt 
that., when grown largely, ak will no doubt 
be the case, market growers and others will 
have another string to their bow, which they 
will regard with the greatest favour. The 
present sport is not confined to one branch of 
the plant, but is a root sport, and, as such, 
may be propagated forthwith, and another 
season may see it freely distributed through¬ 
out the country. Blossoms of this shade al¬ 
ways look well under artificial light, and 
their beautiful colour in the dull autumn 
months is very effective. 

It will be interesting to readers to learn 
the names of the Mine. Marie Masse sports, 
as they are now represented by quite a long 
and interesting series of most beautiful varie¬ 
ties, each witli a beauty peculiarly its own. 
First of all we have the parent just alluded 
to, with its lilac-mauve blossoms; Ralph 
Curtis, of a creamy-white shade ; Crimson 
Marie Masse, which opens a beautiful warm 
crimson colour, and which pales with age to a 
clear bronze. Then there is Rahbie Burns, a 
cerise-tinted flower of a very pleasing shade 
of colour. The brilliant golden-yellow blos¬ 
soms of Horace Martin never fail to please, 
and are still regarded with the greatest 
favour. More recent additions are White 
Masse aiul Wells’ Masse, the latter dis¬ 
tinctly superior to the former, develop¬ 
ing white blossoms of the most chaste 
and beautiful character. Then there is 
George Bowness, from which the sport 
under notice was derived. This is of a 
very pretty crushed-strawberry shade of 
colour, and, as such, makes a welcome addi¬ 
tion to those already described. A further 
welcome addition is a variety called Red 
Masse, a distinct acquisition, the blooms re¬ 
taining the beautiful reddish-crimson shade 
so much better than the so-called Crimson 
Masse. In the early stages these flowers may 
be cut in beautiful sprays, and are particu¬ 
larly serviceable for all forms of indoor de¬ 
coration. Ethel is a lovely primrose coloured 
variety that was certificated last season. 

The Masse family of plants may be taken as 
ideal for the outdoor hardy flower garden. 
This family of plants also possesses a consti¬ 
tution second to none. Another point in its 
favour is that each plant develops numerous 
shoots at its base subsequent to the flowering 
period, which enables the grower to divide 
one plant up into numerous piece's wherewith 
to perpetuate the stock in large numbers in 
succeeding years. The flowers are better 
when developed in a natural manner. Any 
attempt at. disbudding appears to make the 
flowers less pleasing than they might, other¬ 
wise be. W. V. T. 

Chrysanthemums in the border. I do not 

know whether the growing of specimen blooms 


on plants for the house has so many adherents 
as formerly ; I am rather of the opinion that 
very many who once were content with grow¬ 
ing five or six flowers on a plant now prefer 
three times that number, and are tired of 
the “big bloom business,” as one man re¬ 
marked to me last year. At any rate, of one 
thing I am quite sure : the Chrysanthemum 
as a border plant was never more popular 
than it is to-day. Some of the earliest are 
now showing colour, and others give much 
promise. We may do much for them yet in 
the matter of tying and staking, and the 
pinching out of side shoots that have grown 
all too quickly in the time of much rain. 
Feeding them, too, should not be overlooked, 
if an improvement is needed in the blossoms, 
and, in this particular, one may vary the diet 
somewhat, sheep-droppings and cow-manure 
both being excellent., with some soot added, 
to improve the foliage.— Woodbastwick. 

The 8ingle-flowered early Chrysanthe¬ 
mums. —For years growers of the outdoor 
early Chrysanthemums were loud in their de¬ 
mands for single flowered varieties that would 
bloom satisfactorily in the open border, and, 
although we had only two or three fairly good 
varieties at. the time, there were traits in their 
character that commended them. A com¬ 
plete change has now been made in regard to 
this particular type of the flower. Last sea¬ 
son Mr. Wells exhibited quite a large num¬ 
ber of very beautiful single-flowered varieties 
that did exceedingly well in the open border. 
Those who have grown some of tne varieties 
have every reason to be pleased. The curious 
character of the weather during the last two 
or three months has rather militated against 
their successful development, yet, notwith¬ 
standing these disadvantages, the plants are 
now looking extremely well, and promise to 
bloom well later on. These single-flowered 
varieties have a bushy habit of growth, and, 
most important of all, are very free-flowering. 
Seed may be sown in the early spring, and 
flowers gathered in the early days of August. 
We do not like the single-flowered Chrysan¬ 
themums with too many rows of petals—one, 
or, at the most, two rows are ample. 

Early-flowering Chrysanthemums—divid¬ 
ing the plants versus propagating by cut¬ 
tings. —As an experiment this year I treated 
my early-flowering Chrysanthemums in two 
different ways. In one case I divided the old 
8tools of some of the better kinds, and in the 
second instance the young plants were raised 
from cuttings inserted in orthodox fashion in 
the early spring. The division of the old 
stools is a very simple process, and anyone 
may raise in this way quite a large number of 
plants with the greatest ease. February or 
March is an excellent period during which 
to lift the old plants for the purpose of divid¬ 
ing them. At.that time they are making new 
shoots that seldom fail to divide satisfactorily, 
and if the ground be properly prepared many 
of the pieces may be planted out straight 
away into their flowering quarters. It i« bet¬ 
ter, however, to give these divided pieces the 
protection of a cold frame thus early in the 
year. Here they may be planted firmly a few 
inches apart, and after a week or two will 
have formed very nice pieces, fit for transfer¬ 
ring to their permanent quarters. This is 
much simpler than making cuttings, and they 
seldom fail to do satisfactorily. I have lately 
been making a comparison between the two 
methods, and find that the divided pieces have 
given very excellent results. The plants are 
larger, aiid, apparently, very robust, and, 
mast important of all, thfese divided plants 
come into flower much earlier. As a rule, the 
variety Maggie is at its best in late Septem¬ 
ber or early October, but, under this simpler 
method of dealing with the plants the latter 
come into flower several weeks earlier. I 
have this variety in bloom at the time of writ¬ 
ing (August- 20th), and there is the promise 
or the display lasting for a long time. Other 
varieties that have already flowered are 
Rosie, Polly, Carrie, Goacher’s Crimson, 
Blush Beauty, Lillie, and Kitty and several 
Pompon sorts. The flowers are quite in char 
aoter, the colour being good, and the form all 
that one could wish for. Propagation by divi¬ 
sion of the old plants in the spring has much 
to commend it ; there is a great saving of 
labour, and the plants need not be cared for 
under glass through tire-winter.—E. G. 



August 31, 190? 


GARREMJVG ILLUSTRATED. 


351 


ROSE8. 

ROSE CELIA. 

This beautiful Rose, introduced last year 
by Messrs. Wm. Paul and Son, of Waltham 
Cross, promisee to fill an important place in 
the Rose garden. It possesses an excellent 
habit of growth, bushy, yet tall and upright, 
so much so that one could well employ this 


is a lively shade of satin-pink, with a some¬ 
what deeper tint in the centre of the flower. 
The splendid way this Rose carries its blos¬ 
soms on fine, stiff growths, is evident from 
the illustration, and one welcomes such a 
Rose, as there are far too many that droop. 
If, as I have already said, its buds and also 
the lateral shoots that often spring out ere 
the blooms develop, are well reduced, we 
may have immense flowers, that, cut with 


among the blossoms. There is not much 
fragrance in Celia, but perhaps it is too 
much to expect all good points in any one 
Rose. Rosa. 


ROSE BARONNE PISTON DE ST. CYR. 
This exquisite Monthly Rose has, to some 
extent, escaped the notice of lovers of gar¬ 
den varieties. I consider it one of our very 



Rose Celia. From a photograph in Jlessra. W. Paul ami Son’s nursery at Waltham Cross, N. 


Rose for hedges of 3 feet to 4 feet in height. 
Its blossoms are produced very freely—in fact, 
too much so—and unless well disbudded and 
the shoots reduced in numbers, the blooms 
cannot develop well. The very double blos¬ 
soms are useful to the exhibitor, especially 
in a hot season, but in a cold, wet summer, 
such as we are experiencing, Roses of this 
type are severely handicapped. 

The colour, about irfid^^vd>etweenjtli^t of 
Mme. Jules Grolez \iidg >li .ibJ lMqtout, 


good. long stems, as they may be, would 
make a grand display in a suitable vase. 

For forcing, either in pots or planted out, 
Celia will eventually be a general favourite, 
as it is of such a pleasing bright colour, 
which appeals to all. For tropical countries 
Celia would be an ideal sort to grow, and it 
is a welcome addition to the very few new 
Roses that are reliable in a hot country. A 
very pretty effect is produced by the lovely 
amber-coloured young growihs interspersed 


best decorative sorts. Just now it is send¬ 
ing up fine growths, crowned with huge 
bunches of the dainty-coloured blossoms. 
The outer petals are a pale mauve, whilst 
those in the centre are of a most lovely pale 
shell-pink, with a creamy tinge in the 
younger blooms. 

The flowers are lity^e more than semi¬ 
double, but of a prettily cupped shape. These 
China or Monthly Roses arc very decorative, 
many of them yieldingjdossoms equal to Tea 















35-3 


GARDENING illustrated. 


Augcst 31, 100? 


Rosea—in fact, the newer sorts appear to be 
Tea Roses, or China Teas, as some prefer to 
call them. 

The sort noted above approaches nearer to 
the old Blush Monthly. Although far more 
beautiful in its individual blossoms, it is 
perhaps not so hardy. We really want a 
race of thoroughly hardy China sorts, that 
that can be planted as freely as the Common 
Pink, with the assurance of aa great a success 
in the planting. With the China Teas we 
must always reckon with a hard winter, al¬ 
though if well earthed up at the base, there 
is little fear but that they will spring up 
again all right, even though cut down by 
the frost to tlie soil line. 

Another very pretty China in all but name 
is Unermiidliehe, which, 1 believe, means 
inexhaustible. It is a verv free bloomer, 
producing great clusters of blossom, the dun 
ters larger than in any sort I am acquainted 
with. The colour is a lively rosy-pink, with 
a whitish base. The older blooms are rather 
inclined to purple, but when at its best the 
colour is very pleasing and distinct. It is 
only a semi-double flower, but opens clear 
and beautiful, presenting in the mass a very 
lovely picture, with the numerous cherry-red 
buds interspersed. ' Rosa. 


BEAUTIFUL BRIER ROSES. 

If, as experts think, the Hybrid Tea lias 
nearly reached its limit, the Hybrid Briers 
surely are only in their infancy. The more 
one sees of that beautiful sort, Soleil d’Or, 
its wonderful colouring impresses one. There 
is not a single claim to beauty of form. Per¬ 
haps it would be* difficult to name a more ill¬ 
shaped Rose, but it amply atones for this in 
its superb colouring. There is a mixture of 
daffodil-yellow, ochre-red, and apricot, with 
a suspicion of carmine, all concentrated in 
the large blossoms. The peculiar fruit-like 
fragrance both of blossom and foliage is re¬ 
markable. Hard pruning at times is needed 
to keep up a supply of vigorous wood from the 
ba*e, but some of the one-year-old shoots 
may ba retained 2 feet to 3 feet in length. 
Indeed, if these yearling shoots were le- 
tained almost full length, and trained to a 
pillar or trellis, the blossoming would be more 
effective. Soleil d’Or is showy as a standard 
or half-standard, the wonderful colouring 
being conspicuous among all other Roses. It 
is perpetual flowering, although its autumn 
blooms are not very numerous. I quite ex¬ 
pect to see other varieties added to the 
group; indeed, there can be no reason why 
these Hybrid Briers should not become as 
numerous the Hybrid Teas. I have al 
ways bad an idea that the achievements of 
Lord Penzance in this direction should not 
be allowed to drop, but rather amplified by 
oilier hybridists, who could use the ground¬ 
work, as it were, prepared for them by Lord 
Penzance's patience and skill. 

Why should not such sorts as Lady Pen¬ 
zance be induced to yield offspring of even 
greater charm, both in size of blossom and 
also in colouring? There are many lovely 
species merely waiting for the skilled hy¬ 
bridist. 1 believe we shall soon see such sorts 
as Austrian Yellow and Harrisonii, together 
with the Persian Yellow and Austrian Cop¬ 
per, employed upon the Hybrid Perpetuals, 
and perhaps Bourbons, and why not on the 
Hybrid Teas? The Hybrid Perpetuals seem to 
me to be the class to work on, using these 
Briers as pollen parents. 

Gottfreid Keller is a remarkable result of 
inter crossing, the variety being rendered as 
free-flowering as a Tea Rose, with the lovely 
colouring of a Lady Penzance Brier, only a 
much larger flower. Parkfeuer is said to 
surpass Gruss an Teplitz in brilliancy; if so. 
we shall thank Herr Lambert for this sort. 
Una is another example of the influence 
of the pollen parent on the offspring, for we 
have a flower almost Tea-like in its beautiful 
bud, with the sturdy shrub like growth of the 
hedge Brier. 

1 used to be very dubious in accepting the 
statements of raisers us to the origin of their 
various seedlings, gained by cross fertilisa¬ 
tion, but my experience lias proved to me 
that most unlooked-for results will follow, 
totally different froi/vvTlot av© miahl inspect. 
If ml ever have 


amateurs would do well to make extensive 
crossings of these various garden Roses, and 
they may be enabled to enrich the collection 
with genie of much beauty, and even suppos¬ 
ing they are not of any commercial value, 
how interesting it would be to possess varie¬ 
ties that we know are not to 1*2 found else¬ 
where than in one’s own garden. E. 


ROSE CELINE FORESTIER. 

At a cottagers’ show recently an enthusiastic 
admirer was overheard to say that the above 
was his favourite Rose, and ho thought it 
far superior to many of the '‘new-fangled ’’ 
modern varieties. The old man was not far 
wrong when he gave this verdict. Who is 
there who knows the Rose who cannot praise 
it for its exquisite beauty? The rich sulphur 
yellow of the large flat blossoms, the lovely 
pinkish tinge in the pretty buds, and the 
sturdy growth are so well remembered. What 
a glorious standard it will make when left 
almost unpruned, as it must be, in order to 
get it to bloom ! It is very fine as an arch 
Rose if planted in a somewhat sheltered 
spot, and as it grows so luxuriantly, it may 
well be planted against a rather tall pillar. 

I cannot recommend the Rose for under 
glass unless one has a very large space to 
cover. 1 remember seeing a standard under 
glass in a very small greenhouse. It grew so 
freely that everything seemed smothered with 
it, and not a flower did the owner obtain, 
simply because he was obliged to k«cp cut¬ 
ting the plant back each year. Of course, 
had he retained only two or throe of the 
long growths, and run them along the roof 
horizontally, he would have had some blos¬ 
soms then. It is a glorious old Rose for a 
single specimen on a lawn, preferably as a 
standard. 

A very lovely new Noisette has appeared 
lately, .with somewhat the same colour as 
Celine Forestier, only perhaps more intense 
in its sulphur-yellow, and that is Mine. Bour- 
ain. It is well worth adding to any collec¬ 
tion, and it appears to be very free flowering. 

Many of the yellow flowering climbing 
Teas, beautiful though they be, are very ten¬ 
der. and need a lot of care. 1 refer to such 
as Henrietta de B •auveau and Climbing Perle 
dos Jardins. In a warm climate they would 
be .superb. If yellow Roses are desired, one 
must make provision for climbing sorts in 
some wav. for there are more true yellows 
in this section than among the dwarfs. If 
possible, grow them as standards. They are 
a great success in this way. Such gems as 
Duchesse d’Auerstadt, Mine. Barthelemy 
Levet, La Soleil, etc., and the king of Rones, 
Marechal Niel, succeed well as standards. 
A good armful of Bracken Fern stuffed into 
their heads in November usually ensures 
their wintering safely. Some growers go so 
far as to lift the trees and heel them in 
under a north wall until winter has passed. 
This throws the blossoming rather late, but 
there is this advantage—they escape the 
spring frosts. W. X. 


RAMBLER ROSES AFTER FLOWERING. 
As soon us convenient after the blossom has 
faded, the various fast growing summer 
flowering Roses which are known ns 
“Ramblers,” should be relieved of some of 
the oldest, growths, in order to help the 
younger shoots to mature. Where these Roses 
are really happy at the root there is no lack 
of young growths, and it is pleasant to see 
the great thick shoots rising up from the base 
even whilst the blossom is in its highest 
beauty, knowing that, they represent the 
future well-being of the Rose. The brilliancy 
of the trusses from vigorous plauis fur out¬ 
shines the puny clusters we get from old. 
decrepit wood, so that it behoves us to make 
the most of our resources to encourage this 
noble class of Roses. How grandly they will 
do as bushes, if planted in good deep soil 
well away from other shrubs. Perhaps the 
Crimson Rambler never appears so miserable 
as when it is planted against, a hot wall. This 
is one of the worst positions that could be 
allotted to this variety. Give it an open posi 
tion in a well prepared border and supply it 
with liquid food from May to June, and there 
will be a grand show. 


If some of the old Ayrshire and Evergreen 
Roses have hitherto been unsatisfactory owing 
to overcrowded growth, this may most profit¬ 
ably be thinned out now. It mav entail con¬ 
siderable labour, but it pays in the end, even 
if not noticeable the following year. I like 
to give all these Rambling Roses a little weak 
liquid-manure after flowering—say, about 
once a week up till end of August. 

Just now (end of July) Dorothy Perkins, 
Lady Gay, and Hiawatha are in full beauty. 
To some the late blossoming of these Roses is 
rather a disappointment, but to others it is 
welcome, as it tends to keep the Rose garden 
cheerful between the seasons, for there is 
usually a lull from the summer blossoming to 
the autumnal display. 

How lovely these Roses are as standards! 
Nothing can compare to their beauty ; the 
wonderful quantity of blossom is quite 
dazzling. I think we miss much beauty de¬ 
rivable from standard Roses in confining our 
budding to just the orthodox types—Hybrid 
Perpetual, Hybrid Tons, and Teas. There is 
wanting a bolder style in gardens to-day, and 
in public parks, too. Such standards arc ob¬ 
tainable with the Rambler, and other free- 
growing kinds would add quite a new feature 
to these public places, and they would be far 
more likely to endure the smoke—especially 
the shiny-leaved sorts. In their proper place, 
budded with the grand, free-growing sorts, 
standard Roses can never fail to please. 

Rosa. 


NOTES AND HE PLIES. 

Roses for border under west wall.—I have a 
lonjc, mixed holder, 3 feet wide, under a wall facing 
west. 1 wish to plant some half standard Kosew 
among the other plants. Is there any chance of suc¬ 
cess in such h situation? Rones do well in the 
neighbouring gardens. Would you please give me 
the names of twelve suitable Roses of easy culture 
and as varied in colour as possible?— Standard. 

[You should be able to grow some good 
Rones in this border, provided you do not 
allow them to be smothered with the other 
occupants. Plant them about 4 feet apart, 
and wee that each tree has the soil deeply 
dug for it before planting. It is this lack of 
sufficient preparation that is responsible for 
many failures in such borders. You would 
find the following dozen an excellent selec¬ 
tion : Caroline Testout, Frau Karl Druschki, 
Mme. Isaac Pereire, Dr. Andry, Viscountess 
Folkestone, Ulrich Brunner, Win. Allen 
Richardson, Bouquet d'Or, Mine. Alfred Car¬ 
rier©, Mme. Ravarv, Conrad F. Meyer, and 
Gruss an Teplitz. Plant end of October or 
November, and stake each tree when 
planted.] 

A defect In certain Hybrid Teas and 
Tea Roses. —In March last I planted a large 
bed with Tea and Hybrid Tea Roses, and in 
June gave them liquid-manure, mode from 
sheep’s droppings. Within a very short time 
the whole of the plants developed strong 
growth** from the base, running up to 3 feet 
and 4 feet in height, and exceedingly thick 
and vigorous, crowned with a very large num¬ 
ber of flower-buds, even the laterals pushing 
up until there is an inverted pyramid of buds. 
In many instances I disbudded to one flower 
to a shoot. The long-continued rain has 
spoiled many buds, but even after these were 
removed, the rest are in most cases small, 
and do not seem to swell and mature. Is this 
due to the cold, wet weather, or should I have 
continued giving liquid-manure? Further, 
several varieties—notably Homere and Mine. 
Jean Dupuy—have all flowers imperfect (as 
if eaten by vermin), with green centres. 
Franeisca Kruger also has half-formed 
flowers. On the other hand, such varieties 
as Pharisaer, Mrs. Theodore Roosevelt, 
Prince de Bulgarie, Lady Ashtown, Mme. 
Ravary, have developed perfectly, and La 
Tosca, with about sixty flowers, all out on 
a huge bush, is a fine eight. Will you kindly 
tell me how to overcome the defect alluded 
to? —Dale Ckoft. 


"The English Flower Garden and Home 
Grounds Sew Edition, 10 th, reduc'd, irith detcerip- 
tion h of all the brat plant s, trees, and eh rubs, their 
culture and ar ran-}fine at, illustrated on wood. Cloth , 
-medium 8vo , 7'#.; post free, 1:A. fid. 

"The English Flower Garden” uuufaUo be 

had ;ineLt bound in S vole., hn(j vellum, iUe. nett. Qf 

au NA CHAMPAIGN 




August 31, 1907 


GaRDEMAtG ILLUSTRATED. 


853 


OUTDOOR PLANTS* 

NARCISSUS CREMONA. 

Peru A 1*8 tlie accompanying illustration bet¬ 
ter than mere description will afford the 
reader an idea of the beauty of thie ex¬ 
cellent novelty. To our thinking, and to our 
knowledge, there is nothing either among 
the newer kinds or among the old to compare 
with it in beauty or distinctiveness. The by 
no means common feature of the involute 
perianth segments, so widely overlapping each 
other, as in this variety, wedded to the re¬ 
markably wide expanse of the brim of the 
trumpet, are items giving character and 
charm to a very handsome flower. Then, in 
addition, we get the perfectly figured or lined 
character of the trumpet, which is so pro¬ 
nounced in the variety and so well shown in 
the picture, these combined making it among 


STAKING AND TYING MICHAELMAS 
DAISIES. 

These plants have made rapid growth of 
late, and unless they have already been staked 
and securely tied, the chances are many of 
the specimens will have become so unruly as 
■ to spoil one’s prospect of making a pretty dis- 
! play with them in the flowering season. Those 
| who took advantage of advice given a short 
I time since, will now see how beneficially the 
I plants have fared. Already many of the bet- 
l ter kinds are making quite beautiful bushy 
specimens, especially plants of the ericoides, 
cordifolius, and vimineus sections, each with 
its Heath-like foliage. Without even a single 
flower the plants are really beautiful. The 
stronger growing plants of the Novi Belgi and 
Novae Anglite sections have attained splendid 
proportions, and where they are properly 
under control, promise extremely well. Here 


Narcissus Cremona. From a photograph in Messrs. Barr and Sons’ nursery. 



the most attractive of modern Daffodils. In 
other ways Cremona may be described as a 
giant among the cream-coloured bicolors, the 
petals or perianth segments of a soft, creamy- 
white, the trumpet merging into a yellow 
cream shade. We believe the handsome 
Weardale Perfection to be the seed parent of 
this fine sort, which was raised in Messrs. 
Barr and Sons’ nursery, at Ditton. 

E. J. 


Phacelia campanularia Apart from the 
Lobelias, tins is the brightest blue summer-flowering 
plant we have for fronts of mixed borders. It is an 
annual pure and simple, and should be sown where 
it is to flower either in Apiil or May, aeeording to 
the nature of the season and the time it is required 
to he in bloom. Some clumps of it have been very 
effective with me for the past few weeks, and will, 
no doubt, continue so for a few weeks to come, the 
bright bine bell-shaped flowej 
in the sunlight. I'nlike 
Phacelia cn[n be transplanted 
suffering any ill-effects.—A « 



and there in the collection are to be found 
isolated specimens, where, for some unex¬ 
plained reason, they have not been staked 
and tied. In consequence of this neglect, the 
growths of some of the varieties are laying 
on the ground, all crooked and unsightly, and 
the chances are they will never recover their 
normal condition, however skilfully they may 
be dealt with. This fact should urge readers 
to see to their plants at once, if they have not 
yet received this attention. Some of the taller 
plants may need a taller and stouter stake, in 
order to support the ample growths of the 
more vigorous-growing kinds. If this be so, 
avoid tying in the growths tightly. The 
branching growths can be securely, yet 
loosely, tied to their supports, and the grace 
and beauty of the plants preserved at the 
same time. This should be striven after at 
all times, so that the horrid hunching up of 
the shoots, so commonly met with in collec¬ 


tions of these plants, may be avoided. Those 
who can spare the time, and who also have 
the necessary Bamboo or Hazel stakes, may 
insert these so that they support some of the 
branching growths in their naturally elegant 
fashion. It is astonishing how very beautiful 
the plants may be made in this way, and what 
grand spreading branches may be flowered in 
perfection by these means. Readers who 
nave never seen a really good display of the 
Michaelmas Daisies in September and Octo¬ 
ber have no idea of their beauty, and for 
this reason should make a point of visiting 
any garden where a representative group can 
be seen in flower D. B. C. 


BORDER CARNATIONS. 

These are extra good this y.*ar, but decidedly 
late, being only at the present date (August 
5th) just about at their best. I am growing 
them on rather different lines this year— i.e., 
the layers are flowering where they were put 
down, and, although we lose a bit in size, we 
have a rare wealth of bloom on a limited 
area. The plants were put in their present 
quarters in October, 1905, and either four 
or five layers pegged down from each in the 
summer of 1906. After deciding to let them 
remain in those quarters instead of replant¬ 
ing. the intervening spaces (being fairly wide 
as the original plants were put out 18 inches 
each way) were filLed in with a compost con¬ 
sisting of two parts old Cucumber soil and 
one of horse-droppings well broken up. after 
the bottom had been slightly stirred. I shall 
layer some of the young growths into this 
coinpost presently, and make a new planting 
in the autumn. Mine are old sorts, but. good 
in shape and colour, and, in the majority of 
oases, non-splitters. A few of the best are 
Countess of Paris, Mrs. E. Hambro, Miss A. 
Campbell, Hayes’ Scarlet, Boadicca (pink). 
Ibis, Diamond ( a fine white), Cassandra, and 
Carolus Duran. E. BURRBLL. 


OX A LIS DEPPEI. 

This Oxalis, which is held to be synonymous 
with O. tetraphylla, is now very beautiful, 
and is, without doubt, one of the handsomest 
members of the family, exceeding in charm 
even the pretty O. enneaphylla. It is a native 
of Mexico, whence it was introduced in 18117. 
but appears to he quite hardy, thriving in any 
position. The five-pet ailed flowers are of a 
soft reddish pink tint, with a green throat 
and golden anthers, and are eacli 1} inch in 
diameter. From ten to fourteen are borne on 
stems a foot in height, and when a dozen 
flower-steins ari* carrying fully-expanded blos¬ 
soms the effect in the sunshine is very pretty. 
The foliage is also exceedingly handsome, the 
four heart-shaped leaflets that compose the 
leaves being 2 inches in length and 1J inch in 
breadth, clear green in colour, with an irregu¬ 
larly marked brown zone crossing each leaf¬ 
let. The leaves are borne in quantity on 
stems 7 inches in length, and entirely hide the 
ground, the flower-stems rising from their 
centre. 

S. W. Fitzherbert. 


BORDER AURICULAS. 

While the very best way to increase these 
hardy Auriculas is to sow seed every year 
under glass, and so have a good stock of young 
plants constantly coming on, yet when a really 
good variety is found, and has been allowed 
to grow into a strong, spreading plant, it is 
well to lift it and divide it carefully, then re¬ 
plant it in good soil, and, if done now, bet¬ 
ter on a shady border, where the pieces will 
make fresh roots and become well established. 
But Auriculas so treated always have deep 
root stocks or stems, and each portion should 
be looked over, and any such stem which will 
be in a state of semi-decay cut hard away 
before the planting is done. Later plants 
lose leaves, and then root action is torpid. 
That is of no consequence in the winter sea¬ 
son, especially if the centres remain stout and 
good, as in the spring good flower-stems 
come from these crowns. Still, Auricula 
plants in the open ground, probably because 
the roots have more room and the soil about 
them is always nioisf, retain their leaves bet¬ 
ter than do* plants in pots, us these latter 
are usually -^nepuraged , to become restful 








GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


August 31, 1907 


351 


during the winter months. One good feature 
of border Auriculas is that, being very hardy 
plants, they will endure for several years. 
Hut, all the same, it is best to occasionally lift, 
divide, and replant in fresh soil. 

liaised from seed, growth is invariably slow. 
Even after a year’s growth plants often fail to 
bloom. If they are of a coarse strain, they 
bloom freely. If of a more choice strain, 
though equally hardy, then growth is slow, 
hence a good deal of patience is needed. 
Where new seed can be obtained and sown at 
once in shallow’ pans filled with sandy soil, 
growth is much quicker, and the small seed¬ 
lings, housed in a frame all the winter, are, 
by April, large enough to dibble out into a 
nursery-bed, and, thus treated, they will all, 
as a rule, flower the following year. With 
new seed germination is far quicker than is 
the case with seed nine months old. 

D. 


SUMMER BEDDING PLANTS. 

A large amount of extra work has kept me 
close all through the summer, and I have 
been unable to get far to see how flower-gar¬ 
dens, both public and private, arc looking; 
but so far as the immediate neighbourhood 
is concerned, it is probable that at the time 
of writing (August 18th) beds filled with 
summer-flowering plants have not been so 
dull for many years. Two causes are answer- 
able for this—the cold nights of early June 
and the sunless summer. We waited and 
waited for an opportunity to plant, and men, 
soon after the beds were filled, came biting 
winds and the glas3 close on freezing every 
night. Big plants, like Heliotropes, Lan- 
tanos, Aealyphas, etc., used as isolated speci¬ 
mens, lost their foliage, and were almost 
skeletonised, and hardier things were badly 
nipped. In the way of Pelargoniums Paul 
Crampel, scarlet, and Mrs. Lawrence, soft 
pink (usually at this time so bright—in fact, 
a mass of flower), are very thin, and it is 
doubtful if there will be much improvement 
with so little sun and the nights so cold (the 
glass dropped last night to 37 degs.). Large- 
flowered Begonias are not nearly so good ; 
rain and wind have combined to knock them 
about. The best bedding Begonia this year 
that I have seen is Lafayette. One of the 
brightest scarlets this season is Glory of 
Zurich or Stuttgart (for it seems to be known 
under both names). Isolated plants on a car¬ 
pet of Alyssum, Mesembryanthemum, or simi¬ 
lar variegated plants make a very fine display. 
Things of dwarfer habit, or that are kept 
dwarf by pegging, are also by no means at 
their best. Two good large beds, each some 
fifteen feet, in diameter, have occasional 
plants of the big flowered white Marguerite 
on a carpet of Miss Willmott Verbena. 
Both are very healthy and vigorous, 
and the Marguerite is flowering remarkably 
well ; but. the Verbena is very shy, the nume¬ 
rous buds developing slowly and irregularly. 
An old favourite, the very dwarf Ageratum, 
that helps to make very pretty beds when as 
sociated with Manglesi or Dandy Geraniums, 
with occasional plants of the pink Begonia 
semperflorens, is at present a mass of foliage 
instead of flower. E. Burrell. 

Claremont , August 21st. 


NOTES AND EE PLIES. 

Iceland Poppies.- The blooms of Iceland 
Poppies are so delicate and beautiful, and of 
special interest to those who make a practice 
of having flowers on their tables, that an 
effort should be made to grow a few plants 
every year from seed. Those who omitted to 
sow' in June may, in a measure, make up for 
lost time by getting the seed in now, and at 
this distant date it is best to sow in a cold- 
frame, and winter the plants therein; in 
fact, 1 have found it pays beat to give the 
Iceland Poppies the protection of a frame 
during winter. 

Pinching out the blooms of seedling Frimn 
las. Will you kindly tell me il I ought to pinch otr 
the blossoms as they appear upon my seedling 
Chinese Primulas, which are now getting to nice¬ 
sized plants? 1 want them to grow and bloom well 
later on. They were transplanted in June, and l hope 
to repot them in two weeks* time. Also, by pinch¬ 
ing them back, can 1 get some to bloom later than 
others, and when shall 1 put them iu the green¬ 
house from the frame'^TTbnis. 

[Ifjthe plants andOhjo^vnig for 


flower, which is not valued at the present 
time, by all means pick off the flower truss 
so soon as it appears. You may obtain a suc- 
cessional flowering by doing what you suggest, 
but this pinching out of the blossoms must 
not be carried to extremes. The plants may 
remain in the frame until September or 
October.] 

Spanish Irises. —The Spanish Irises have 
ceased to bloom, hut they have done so much 
better this year than last, owing to the wet 
season, that many growing them have been 
charmed with the beautiful display. Being 
easily grown, it is surprising that more do not 
grow them ; in fact, that everyone who has 
a garden does not find room for a few, as for 
table decoration, arranged with a little foli¬ 
age. the flowers are excellent. It is possible 
that some readers of Gardening Illus¬ 
trated may nbt have them iu the garden, 
and, if so, I would recommend bulbs being 
procured. The matter should not, however, 
be left until November, as the sooner they 
are got into the ground the better. They are 
not over-particular as to soil, a loamy, sandy 
compost suiting them very well, and they 
may be left in the ground for several seasons 
without need for division. We forget some¬ 
times, too, that for gentle forcing in spring 
these “ Poor Man’s Orchids,” as they are not 
inaptly called, give a charming display under 
glass in April. For this purpose bulbs should 
be potted up in good time in the autumn, and 
placed in a cold-frame under ashes, where 
they can remain for some months.— Lea- 
hurst. 

Foxgloves. —A woodland flower, hut a most 
accommodating plant for various positions in 
the garden where other subjects will not 
always grow. I have planted Foxgloves with 
much success under trees and hedgerows in 
my garden, where, amid shade and moisture, 
they luxuriate, and never fail to bloom. Like 
a few other things, when once they are allowed 
to flower there is no dearth of plants the fol¬ 
lowing season, for they are most prolific 
“self-sowers.” They look well, too, in a rock 
garden, where, amid the stone and rooks, 
there is any moisture to be found, and those 
who have not tried them should do so, sowing 
seed in the autumn. I saw during the sum¬ 
mer a nice combination of Foxgloves and 
Antirrhinums that could have given very little 
trouble, but the effect they made in an out-of- 
the-way corner of a garden was exceedingly 
p re 11 y. —Tow N8MAN. 

Statice latifolla.— The great Sea Lavender 
(Statiee latifolia) would be more largely 
grown if only the value of the bloom for win¬ 
ter decoration was appreciated. As it is, 
there are scores of people whose rooms are 
practically devoid of flowers between Novem¬ 
ber and April, who ought to make use of sub¬ 
jects that are commonly designated ‘‘ever 
lasting flowers.” This particular form of 
Statice is one of the hardiest of our perennials, 
and during the many years 1 have grown it 1 
have never lost any plants through frost. The 
flowers, which are borne in stiff panicles, 
often 2 feet across, are deep blue in colour, 
and to ensure their not dropping in the dry¬ 
ing, the sprays should be cut before they fully 
open. Sometimes those who grow Statices 
neglect to divide the roots periodically, with 
the result that they do not bloom with that 
freedom as do those that are split up occa¬ 
sionally. I have had an example brought 
under my notice this season, some of the 
divided plants responding with many flowering 
spikes, whilst older plants have bloomed but 
sparse I v.—W oo db a 8 T w I c K. 

Oxalis corniculata. —This is a perennial 
species, absolutely unlike O. Deppei in ap¬ 
pearance. It is of very dwarf growth, not 
rising more than an inch above the ground. 
Its tiny, bright yellow flowers, with five 
petals, are borne singly on footstalks \ inch 
in length, and are a third of an inch in 
diameter. The little leaves are composed of 
three leaflets, each ^ inch across. A clump 
entirely covering the surface of the soil with 
its low growing, small foliage, and liberally 
set with minute golden yellow blossoms, is a 
pretty sight. S. VV. Fitzherbert. 

Malmaison Carnations in the open. Last 
season I grew a few' varieties of the above 
Carnations outdoors as an experiment, and 
the results were so satisfactory that I was in¬ 


duced to employ them more largely this year. 
If anything, they have succeeded better still 
this season, and have yielded some very fine 
flowers. The plants also make remarkably 
sturdy growth, and are quite free from rust. 
The varieties grown in this way are Monk, 
Prime Minister, Trumpeter, Saulte, and 
Churchwarden, and the flow’ers prove ex¬ 
tremely valuable in prolonging the season 
after those grown under glass are over. The 
soil composing the border iu which they were 
planted is a heavy loam, and the position 
south-west. Another season 1 intend trying 
other varieties, and am hoping that Maggie 
Hodgson will succeed and afford some com¬ 
pensation for the great difficulty experienced 
in growing and keeping the old Crimson Clove 
in health for any length of time. Maggie 
Hodgson is quite as dark in colour, flowers 
have the same delicious perfume, and, when 
well grown, are three times the size of those 
of the old Clove.—G. 1*. K. 

A fine Lilium auratum.— A year ago I 
wrote of a Lilium auratum showing fifty-nine 
flowers. The plant was dried off in the win¬ 
ter, but not removed from the pot. To-day 
it has 104 blossoms fully expanded ; and, I 
need scarcely say, it is a marvellous sight. 
The gardeners who call to see it say, “ I never 
saw or heard tell of such a plant.”—E. C. 
Marciiant, Hermitage, Berks. 

Gardening under difficulties.— It is often 
surprising to find what a deal may be done by 
determination and trouble in making a house 
and garden bright and cheerful when difficul¬ 
ties appear almost insurmountable. One such 
case I know demonstrates forcibly the truth 
of the assertion. It is a garden some 10 yards 
square at the front of a house in one of the 
poorest parts of a town. The man who lives 
in the house and his wife are both enthusiastic 
gardeners, and spend much time in their little 
plot, often working therein early and late. 
At the time 1 am writing they have succeeded 
in getting together quite a nice lot of annuals, 
and lately, as I passed, I noticed good spikes 
of Ten-week Stocks and patches of Virginian 
Stock, Shirley Poppies, Cornflowers, Candy¬ 
tuft, Mignonette ; whilst the centre bed of 
Tropoeoluma is surrounded by a belt of fresh 
green Grass, raised from seed this spring, 
showing that even in a closed-in garden, amid 
conditions that might, with some people, be 
regarded as altogether unsuitable, it is pos¬ 
sible to have something gay. In addition to 
this, I noticed over the door in a latticed 
porch pots of Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums and 
trailing Campanulas laden with flowers. It is 
interesting to note how many people on their 
way to and from work stop for a moment to 
admire the attempts of two people who 
love their garden.— Derby. 

Sea Hollies (Eryngiuma).—These are now 
at their best, and there are few plants in the 
garden more attractive or capable of standing 
severe drought with less damage. E. Oliveri 
anum is one of the best, and certainly the 
brightest-coloured at the present time, with 
its steel-blue, pointed, involucre bracts. This 
plant is often confounded w-ith E. amethyst - 
inum. but the latter is never more than a foot 
or so high, with smaller and less vividly- 
coloured flower-heads ; while , Oliverianum 
grow's from 3 feet to 4 feet in height, and is 
much larger in all its parts. E. amethvst- 
inum is, however, not to be despised, as it 
just fits the first row of the mixed border, 
the other corning in two rows or eo further 
back. E. giganteuin is very free, and for 
isolated groups can hardly be surpassed: the 
bold entire foliage and gigantic flower-etems, 
and heads of a pale grey, are very effective 
in this way. It can be raised in any quan¬ 
tity from seed, the plants flowering the 
second year. E. alpinum, when well grown, 
is a very handsome and highly ornamental 
species. It thrives well in a shady border in 
stiff loam, but also does well exposed. E. 
eteruleum, Bourgati, planum, aquaticum. 
panieulatuin, sorra, Lasseauxi, and many 
others, are all worthy of cultivation where 
room can be found for them on a dry, well- 
drained bank or border. 

Preparing frames for Calceolarias.— The 
shrubby Calceolarias, which are used so much 
for summer bedding, are not always treated 
satisfactorily ; as a matter of fact, in not a 
few cafes the failure to winter them may be 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




August 31, 1D07 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


355 


traced to “coddling.” In the first place, they I this > lse . ns tllc flowers come a few weeks 
do not require a rich compost, and yet I have | earlier, and are nice for cutting. I have seen 


known instances where, after the frame has 
been occupied with Cucumbers in the sum¬ 
mer, all the attention the bed received was to 
have a few inches of soil thrown over it, 
levelled, and the cuttings dibbled in. It is 


little wonder that after a time such cuttings j are never 


old and almost worn-out lights patched up 
and used for them, and the trouble involved 
has more than paid in the prodigality of fine, 
clean flowers. -WOODBASTWICK. 

Sweet Williams. These old time flowers 


to greater advantage than 


turned yellow and then dwindled away. *Tlie > when growing in patches in a country garden 
better plan is to dig a piece of ground on the I in an informal manner. Everyone knows, 
level, place at the bottom 2 inches or 3 inches | who has had any experience with them, that 
of ashes, and then spread over these ordinary ( the conditions to their successful culture may 
garden soil, mixed with coarse river sand, be summed up in a few words, and depends 


into which the cuttings can be inserted, when 
the bed has been made quite level. The 
frame can then be placed over them and the 
lights put on, care being taken neither to 
plant the cuttings too thickly nor to allow too 
much space between the bed and the frame- 
light. The nearer the glass the bettor it will 


chiefly on good soil and an open, sunny situa¬ 
tion. Where these obtain no one need have 
any misgivings about growing Sweet 
Williams. At this date seedlings should 
have been transplanted, and it will soon be 
time to think of removing them to their per¬ 
manent quarters. Planted in groups of five 


he for the plants. In a poor compost like or six, they give a dash of colour to a border 
this, with ashea under them, the plants will in the time when Canterbury Bells, Irises, 
not become drawn, and, what is more, when 1 and Larkspurs are in their prime.—W. F. D. 
the time arrives for planting them out. the 
soil will not drop from them, for it is seldom 
they do much good if in their removal the soil 
falls away from the roots.-— Leahurst. 

Helionopsis breviscapa. Among the al- 
pine flowers which have found their way to 
these islands within recent years has been 
the pretty little 


SNAKE’S HEAD FRITILLARY (FRIT1L 
LARI A MELEACiRIS). 

This is a good garden plant that comes 
straight from our meadows, where, in some 
Japanese flower named districts, both the purple and the beautiful 


Helionopsis breviscapa. This 
plant is not yet well known in 
our gardens, and is still com¬ 
paratively expensive for a 
flower of its class, but there 
are many who like to have a 
plant of comparative novelty, 
and who desire ere they pur¬ 
chase it to know something 
about its appearance and its 
culture. As I have flowered 
Helionopsis breviscapa twice 
in the open ground, the follow¬ 
ing brief notes upon it will pos¬ 
sibly bo of service to some of 
the many who take pleasure in 
the early spring flowers of 
non bulbous habit. The He¬ 
lionopsis is a dwarf flower with 
rather strap shaped, leathery 
leaves, and with little spikes of 
flowers of considerable beauty, 
opening white and passing off 
pink, and «emi-pendent from 
the short stems, which are 
some 3 inches to 6 inches high, 
but are lengthened if sheltered 
by glass at the flowering period, 
an aid rather to ho rceom 
mended in the rough weather 
we experience in February and 
March, when it generally 
blooms. This is not necessary, 
however, and may be dispensed 
with if desired. From my own 
observation, 1 find that it will 
thrive in a rather low and moist position 
in a soil of loam, leaf-soil, and a little 
peaty material, or old, well - decayed 
turf. Here I gryw it in a small bed 
little below the level of the path, and 



The while Snake's head (Kri Liliana Meleagris alba). 


white varieties abound. For simple beauty 
it holds its own against any' of the numerous 
garden Fri Hilaries of low stature. The 

curious chequering of the flower is very i 
interesting. It is not effected by colouring 

in wet weather a good deal of the rainfall j only as it is nearly equally marked'in the pure | 
drains into this bed, in which, by the way, . white form. These pretty plants like a cool 
Primula rosea, I*, capitata, P. Sikkimen- *oil that is never dried up; if among Grass, 
sis, and a few- other moisture-loving plants 1 bo much the better, damp meadows being 
flourish. It should have firm planting, and | their natural home, 
in a continuance of dry weather the bed re¬ 
ceives Occasional thorough soakings with pure 
water. Here the little Helionopsis brevi 
scapa thrives perfectly, and gives pleasure in 
its early season of bloom, 
hardy with me.—S. Arnott, Dumfries. 

Hardy Primroses. Plante of hardy Prim 


Double white Rockets. -Those who have 
plants of double Rockets should not forget 
It. is perfectly | that in the autumn it is necessary to propa 
gate, and the shoots now to be found on the 
plants should be taken off and dibbled into 
roses that were raised from seed sown last a bed of sand and loam, placing a frame light 
May are, thanks to a wet season, of a good | over them, slightly tilted. Old plants, too. 
size now r ; indeed, we have had few seasons can be split up now ; in fact, one of the con 
when they have been finer at this date. We ditions to success with the double Rocket is 
owe much to them as spring flowers. Of re- that the plants shall be disturbed each sea 
cent years more attention has been paid to son, or else they die off in what appears a 
these flowers, and now one may get beautiful j strange fashion. Often when plants are left 
strains by sowing seed one spring for bloom- 1 undisturbed, they canker, and ultimately die 


ing the following year. There is some in¬ 
terest, too, attaching to the raising of them, 


off, so that it is best to keep up a fresh supply 
_ of plants by striking cuttings and giving them 

as one occasionally is rewarded by a variety the shelter of a cold-frame during winter. It 
possessing special attractions. Few', I ima- I is not because they are difficult to grow that 
gine, think of going to the trouble of finding | so many people lose them after the first sea- 

nn be , son, blit owing to their non-removal to other 


them frame room, but where a frame nan be son, but 
spared oipe might do ^oree^flysn t^ryij jt>to | quarters 


8.—W OOD BAST WICK. 


VEGETABLES. 

LATE SPROUTING POTATOES. 
Seeing how much cooler and damper is the 
present summer n« compared with the 
weather of some preceding ones, the effect 
of this cool dampness should be evidenced on 
southern grown Potato seed tubers next 
year, as the conditions more nearly approach 
to what is found in Scotland and Ireland, 
from which countries our strongest growing 
Potatoes now come. In both districts ripen¬ 
ing—or, rather, decay—of leafage i« late, 
hence the tubers, especially when stored in 
shallow pits out in the fields, begin sprout¬ 
ing late. We find when tubers are re¬ 
ceived in the south from those localities 
in March, that they are then compara¬ 
tively dormant. On the other hand, tubers 
of even quite late varieties grown in 
the south and stored under ordinary con¬ 
ditions, whether in pits or sheds, have well 
sprouted some time previously. Potato- 
growers will do well next winter to note how 
far their tubers keep dormant or otherwise in 
response to the greater coolness, of the pre¬ 
sent season and prevalent moisture. In some 
seasons we have seen Potato tops stripped 
of their leaves ere now by disease, but what 
trouble of that kind has been seen has, eo far 
as my experience goes, been found in breadths 
under trees or in very enclosed gardens, but 
very little in the open fields. However, there 
is etill ample time to hear complaints of the 
disease. 

I am testing the keeping properties of 
tubers of certain varieties, lifted whilst the 
tops were still green, in two ways. The 
varieties included Factor, Table Talk, Col¬ 
leen (a very fine now Irish variety). Royal 
Kidney, and somo others. Thirty tubers of 
each variety, put into wicker flats, are placed 
outdoors under a shaded fence, and on the 
ground, then covered over with old sacks, 
boards, and some short Grass. These should 
keep cool and just moist. Other similar 
numbers of the same varieties are put into 
shallow boxes, and stood oil the floor of a 
Potato store, where the conditions are 
drier. Later the keeping properties of these 
tubers will thus l>e tested, and both lots bo 
planted side by side next year. A. D. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Diseased Potato tops. Sample of Potatoes here¬ 
with for inspection. The soil lias been four years in 
crop, two years dressed with cow-manure, lust year 
with Moss-litter for Turnips, and this year with 
chemical Potato-manure. The trouble has been in 
evidence for the last two years, and appears to be 
on the increase. Later sorts are not. so bad. I have 
changed the seed each year to try and improve 
matters.—J. 8. L. 

[The sample of soil sent with your diseased 
Potato plant affords no oilier clue to the con¬ 
dition of the plants than that it seems poor, 
but that appearance may be due to its reach¬ 
ing us in a very dry condition. The trouble 
with your crop and the poor character of 
tubers sent are, to us. all the more remark 
able, (seeing that south we get no crops of 
Pot at oes equal in strength and health to those 
from Scotch seed tubers. Evidently some¬ 
thing in the soil does not suit Potatoes, and 
we advise you to refrain from planting any 
on it for two or three years, liming it heavily 
and planting it with other diverse crops. If 
such a trouble arose in England, we should 
say the cause was found in growing own saved 
• *r local-grown seed, and that a change to 
Scotch or Irish seed would have good results. 
It may be wise for you to spray your later 
Potatoes now and three weeks later with 
weak Bordeaux mixture, if they show evi¬ 
dence of leaf spot.] 

Stunted Tomatoes —I would be very grateful if 
you could find out the defect in my Tomatoes. I 
have a very good and prolific crop this year; but 
several are reddening before they gain maturity, as 
the two enclosed specimens will show you, and get 
no bigger. Then, again, some—not a large number- 
are attacked at the base by some disease, I would 
call it, like the other enclosed specimens. It baffles 
the horticultural knowledge of my gardener. The 
Tomatoes are grown in a large conservatory, with 
southern aspect, at an average temperature of 
>0 degs.—V. W. 

[We read with surprise your intimation that 
your Tomatoes growing in a conservatory arc 
in a temperature of 80 degs. That is far too 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


356 


GA ItJJEJV'IJVG ILL USTB ATED. 


August 31, 1907 


high, ns from 60 deg«. to 65 dogs, is amply 
warm. Apart, from this undue heat, it seems 
evident that your plants are in a very close 
atmosphere, and nothing can well be worse 
for Tomato plants than to be in a close, moist 
house with other kinds of plants. Really 
they need a house that is light, rather low, 
and into which plenty of air can be admitted. 
The black spot on the points of the fruits is a 
common fungoid attack when houses are kept, 
close and moist. When kept drier and given 
plenty of ventilation it disappears. Keep all 
affected fruits picked off. It is very likely the 
moisture of the house has affected the fertili 
sation of the flowers, hence the smallness of 
the fruits, especially that we see no seeds in 
them. You seem to want a far better variety.] 

Spotted Tomatoes. —I have some Tomatoes 
spotted like ttie inclosed. Would you please tell me 
through your paper the cause?— Anxious. 

[The small spots on your Tomatoes evi¬ 
dence the presence in the house of a fungus, 
but if you oan give the plants more warmth 
and air. and can keep the atmosphere of the 
house dry, and frequently changed, the trouble 
may disappear. A close atmosphere soon 
breeds these troubles on Tomatoes. Yon can¬ 
not safely spray with any fungicide now, as 
these cowpoands are generally poisonous. If 
you have not water pipes in the house, get a 
good fire on, shut the bouse up close, and 
then wash the pipes over with a mixture of 
milk and sulphur. That will, when the pipes 
are hot, fill the air with a strong vapour, 
which should kill the funguc. Very likely so 
far north you have had a long spell of cold, 
sunless weather, which ha* been bad for 
Tomatoes.] 

Decayed Vegetable Marrow -I enclose small 
Marrow. Can you tell me what is the matter with 
it? The plant is grown on a horse-manure heap, 
and is a very strong plant.—J ohn Norman. 

[Your Marrow plants arc growing in too 
gross a material. They* would have done far 
bettor if in a heap of soil with a little manure 
added. Such a mass of manure suffices to 
breed rottenness in the fruits. But, no doubt, 
the primary cause of the rotting is that the 
blooms have been badly fertilised, owing to 
the grossness of the plants, and the cold, wet 
nature of the season, destroying the pollen on 
the small flowers. Unless proper fertilisation 
takes place, fruits just swell a little, then 
die off. Unless the weather becomes much 
warmer, we fear you will have but indifferent 
success with your Vegetable Marrows.] 

Insects in Potatoes. — Enclosed are two 
Potatoes and pieces of two others, also a small tube 
with some insects with which the Potatoes (Early 
Regents) are infested. There is a large number of 
Potatoes at each plant, but they are for the most 
part small and badly formed, and the surface is, 
practically, all over scarred and seamed, and covered 
with warts, like enclosed specimens. The soil is open, 
with a good deal of ashes in it, and lies over what 
has been at one time the shale heap of a coal-pit. 
Would you please kindly say what is wrong and how¬ 
to eure' it ? — Ea RLY Reg f.NT. 

[The insects infesting your Potatoes are 
very nearly related to the spring tails, or 
Poduridae, but the members of this family 
have no jumping apparatus. They are in¬ 
jurious to the roots of plants, but I do not 
suppose they are the cause of vour Potatoes 
not growing as they should. The latter ap¬ 
pear to me to be attacked by the black-scab 
(CEdomyces leproides), but the disease is in 
a very early stage. There is nothing you can 
do now to stop the disease. Destroy all those 
which are badly affected, and do not plant 
Potatoes on the same ground next year. 
From what you say. I should not think that 
your soil was a suitable one for growing 
Potatoes on.—G. S. S.] 

Pea Eureka. —This Pea has done well with 
me this season. In May and early in June 
several rows of it. which are still yielding ex¬ 
cellent crops, and promise to continue doing 
so for some little time to come, were sown. 
Some of the dwarf-habited varieties of Peas 
have grown rather out of character this sea¬ 
son, but not so Eureka, the haulm of which 
has scarcely attained a height of 3 feet. As is 
well known, it is a main crop Pen. and admir¬ 
ably adapted for growing in gardens where 
space is limited or where taller growing kinds 
would cast tno much shade on intervening 
crops. It is also an abundant cropper, and 
the pods arc produced in a long succession, 
two desirable features which can hardly be 
overestimated wf ere ^P|aa ut |^>dnily de¬ 


mand. As regards quality, this is all that, can 
be desired, the flavour, when cooked, being 
sweet, and such as will please all who appre¬ 
ciate the Marrowfat Peas. Autocrat and 
Gladstone, both of which are promising well, 
will succeed the above, and the prospect of a 
good autumn supply of green Peas appears 
more likely of being realised than has been 
the case for the past two or three years.— 
A. W. _ 

GARDEN WORK. 

Conservatory. —Soft wooded winter-flower¬ 
ing plants, such as Begonias, Bouvardias, 
Poinseltias, etc., will now be in cold pits 
ripening growth. They should receive water 
when dry. but not be overwatered. Ventilate 
freely, and shade lightly in hot, weather. A 
permanent shade in a season like the present 
will ha bad for many things. Ferns may 
stand it, but flowering plants will draw up 
weakly, and b3 injured. Even Calceolarias 
and Cinerarias will not do well under heavy 
shade. We may, of course, get a month or 
six weeks’ bright weather, and then a little 
shade will he useful. Chrysanthemums must 
be looked over often now, as a plant may be 
wet enough in the morning and suffering from 
want, of moisture in the afternoon. A top¬ 
dressing of good loam and artificial plant 
food will be helpful now, as the roots will 
soon find it, and it is often of more value than 
so much strong liquid, though the latter can¬ 
not be altogether dispensed with. A few well- 
grown plants of late flowering Michaelmas 
Daisies or Starworts in pots will be useful for 
the eool conservatory; may be kept in a cool 
position outside till the last, moment, though 
they should not be exposed to frost. Look 
over climbers often, with the view of reducing 
growth where possible, as we shall soon want 
all the light we can get. Heaths, Azaleas, 
and berry bearing Solan unis will be outside 
in an open position on coal-ashes, to keep out 
worms. Genistas also will be outside, and 
be growing freely, and may receive the last 
stopping shortly. Roses in pot* intended for 
forcing should bo pruned as far ns is neces¬ 
sary, and be top-dressed, as, probably, they 
will not require repotting now, though, if pot- 
bound. a shift will be desirable. The loam 
for Roses should be the best obtainable, even 
if it lias to be obtained from a distance. To 
the loam may be added one-fourtli part of 
good old manure and a little artificial plant 
food suitable for Roses. The horticultural 
chemist now prepares special manures for 
different families, with considerable success. 
If the watering is done in the morning, 
another look round should be given about 
mid-day. This is better than watering by 
anticipation in dull weather. 

Winter flowers for the stove. -These will, 
probably, include some, if not all. of the fol¬ 
lowing:’—Begonias, especially Gloire de Lor¬ 
raine and its varieties. This is one of the 
most useful, and should be grown in quan¬ 
tity. It is useful for filling baskets for the 
conservatory. Centropogon Luc van us. Eu¬ 
phorbia jacquiniflpflora. E. splendens is not 
much grown, as its appearance is rough and 
spiny, but when these rough, spiny growths 
are freely furnished in winter with bright 
flowers they are not altogether ineffective. 
They should be ripened in a lower tempera¬ 
ture in summer, and. when taken back to the 
stove after the rest, the flowers spring out all 
over the plants, and the rough, spiny stems 
then become attractive. Franeiseea ealycina 
flowers freely in winter, when the growth has 
been ripened. Gardenias are always appre¬ 
ciated. Hebeclinium ianthemum is much like 
a shrubby Ageratum, and there are several 
bright-flowered Hibiscuses, which are useful 
for a good-sized house. Hibiscus Cooperi has 
variegated foliage. Iponuea Ilorsfalliae is a 
climber, though not very rampant; the scar¬ 
let tube or bell-shaped flow-era are freely pro¬ 
duced, and though they only last one day, a 
fresh lot opens every morning. There are 
several varieties of Manettia. slender-climbing 
plants, which flower in winter. M. bicolor is. 
perhaps, the hr-st known. There are two 
species of Libonia—L. florihunda and L. 
penrhosiensis—both are useful in the con¬ 
servatory when in flower, blit just now they 
should be ripening growth outside. Poin- 
settia* are indispensable where colour is' 


wanted. Thyrsoc&nthus rutilans is rather 
attractive when well grown. Its flowers are 
produced on long, thread-like stems, which 
hang down. 

Making up Mushroom-beds. Open-air 
beds are producing freely now, and will con¬ 
tinue to do so for some time, and beds or 
ridges may still be made outside, even where 
there is a house for the winter supply. The 
outside beds are usually made up in the ridge 
form, 3 feet wide at the base and 24 feethign, 
the top being rounded off and the whole built 
up firmly in layers. To be successful we must 
have good spawn and manure from a stable 
where the horses have hard, dry food. If a 
horse is on the sick list, the manure from that 
horse must not be mixed with the other 
manure, or the crop may be a failure. If the 
manure is fresh, after shaking out the longest 
of the litter add one fifth part, of fresh loam 
to the bulk, and thoroughly blend the whole 
together, and then leave till the beat rises, 
when it should be turned over, so that the 
outside may be mixed with the hot manure 
in the centre of the heap. A couple of turn¬ 
ings will generally suffice, ns the loam will 
cheek any tendency to over heating. An open 
shed will be the best, place for mixing and 
preparing the manure for the beds. If the 
preparatory work has to be done outside, 
keep off heavy rains with coverings of mats 
and long litter. Do not permit the manure 
to be overheated, as that will weaken its pro¬ 
ductive power, but the loam will steady the 
heat and absorb the ammonia which is usually 
drawn off to some extent when no loam is 
used. When the temperature of the beds is 
steady at 85 dogs., or even at IM) dogs., if it 
does not rise higher, the spawn should 1 m* in¬ 
serted just under the surface. If brick spawn 
is used, break it up into pieces about 2 inches 
in diameter.- and insert the pieces about 
8 inches apart. After spawning, make the 
bed firm, and leave it till the spawn begins to 
run, and then cover l* inch deep with good 
loam, made firm and smooth with the back 
of the spade. Keep a mulch stick or ther¬ 
mometer in the bed, to test the heat. If the 
heat declines, cover with litter. This will 
keep the heat steady. 

Planting a new vinery. -Vines are not 

generally planted now, but in the case of new 
houses, and if the borders are ready, there 
will be some little gain of time by planting 
now. Assuming that, the eves were started 
in sods of turf early in the spring, with the 
view of planting now, or when the house was 
ready, the sods could be transferred, a little 
root pruning being done in the process, to in¬ 
crease the number of fibres ; the ends of the 
boxes could £>e taken out. and the Vines, with 
all their roots intact, placed into position, 
covered with good soil, and settled in position 
with chilled water. Though the Vines would 
not make much more growth above ground, 
the roots will be active, and will establish 
themselves ready for work in the spring, ami 
the resulting canes from next year’s growth 
will be stronger and built lip firmer than if 
planted in spring. Prune the Vines down to 
within a foot of the ground when the leaves 
fall, take up the strongest rod, and take a few 
bunches the second year. 

Peaches under glass. When nil the fruits 
are gathered, surplus wood, especially the 
wood which has borne fruit and where young 
shoots are waiting to replace it, should be cut 
out to give room to the young wood, so that 
air may circulate freelv, to complete the 
ripening. Give water, if necessary, so that 
the trees mav retain the foliage till their 
work is done, and they will fall naturally. 

Window gardening. —Window-boxes mav 
he kept in condition some time longer yet. if 
the plants arc kept clean and helped with 
liquid-manure. Dwarf, early-flowering Chrys¬ 
anthemums may take the place of the suinnier- 
flowering things at the end of next month. 
If shrubs are used later, the forms of Euony- 
mus will last longer than the usual varie¬ 
ties of small conifers, which soon become 
rusty and unsatisfactory. I have given up 
the use of conifers for window boxes, trust¬ 
ing more to Euonymus. Golden Privet, if 
established in pots, will do, but it moves 
badly otherwise. 

Outdoor garden. —No, time should be lost 
now in propagating a stock of any plants 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



August 31, 1007 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


307 


likely to be required for next season’s plant¬ 
ing. Pretty well every kind of plant in the 
garden or shrubbery, both tender and hardy, 
may be propagated now from cuttings, either 
under glass or outside. Many things, includ 
ing Roses, may be rooted from cuttings in a 
shady border in a prepared bed with a thin 
layer of sand on the surface. Plant firmly, 
and do not leave too much of the cutting ex 
posed above the surface. Leaves on the cut¬ 
ting will assist the formation of roots, if kept 
fresh, but a withered leaf has no value in 
this work. All Gernniunis are best watered 
outside in the sunshine, but soft, things must 
be under glass, kept reasonably moist, and 
shaded from bright sunshine. All plants 
which are difficult to strike from cuttings 
should be layered. These will include such 
things as Wistarias, Ghimonanthus fragrans, 
and Rhododendrons. Prepare new beds for 
choice Pinks, and plant from the cutting-beds 
as soon as rooted. All this family will grow 
well in rieh loam deeply worked. New beds 
for Roses should be prepared soon, so that the 
soil and manure, after being well blended, 
may hare time to settle. Sow hardy annuals 
for spring blooming. 

Fruit garden. -Summer pruning should be 
finished now. There will not be much more 
growth to need attention now or later. Do 
not prune too hard, of the buds that might 
ultimatelv form fruit-buds will become Jis- 
organisecf, and break into growth. All lead¬ 
ing shoots of wall-trees and espaliers should 
be nailed or tied in now. Many Peach-trees 
in the amateur’s garden are in a bad way from 
the attacks of the black-fly, through giving the 
insects time to get established before any¬ 
thing is done to dislodge them. The best 
remedy, as I have oflen stated in this column, 
is Tobacco-nowder. The flies often settle on 
the young shoots when the trees are in blos¬ 
som, when syringing with an insecticide might 
injure the blossoms. Tobacco-powder lightly 
dusted among the open blossoms will kill the 
flics, and do the bLossoms no harm. When 
Tightly managed, the Peach and Nectarine 
will give a good return for wall space—better, 
in fact, than most other fruits. But two 
things must be kept in mind—do not crowd 
the young wood, and keep Tobacco-powder 
handy early in the season, and use it when 
the first fly appears. Finish planting Straw¬ 
berries and dear plantations which are to 
Berve for another year from runners and 
weeds. A few discoloured leaves may be re¬ 
moved, but do not do much in this way. 

Vegetable garden —All early Potatoes yet 
in the ground may be lifted. Ihave not seen 
much disease, and the crops are good, gener¬ 
ally. As fast as the ground is cleared, some 
other crop may follow. If the land requires 
help, give a dressing of soot and superphos¬ 
phate, and hoe it in ; or, in the case of Tur¬ 
nips, sow it in the drills with the seed. St It 
is useful on porous land, but one pound per 
square yard should not be exceeded, ayd less 
will often suffice. It must be evenly distri¬ 
buted. All the winter greens should now be in 
the ground and growing. Those plants set out 
now, unless they were pricked out, and have 
become sturdy, will not do much. Late Peas 
must be mulched and watered. Passing 
showers now only moisten the surface ; the 
roots get little benefit. Onions should be 
harvested now. Spring Cabbages in many 
gardens follow Onions, and the only prepara¬ 
tion needed is a dressing of soot ana super¬ 
phosphate. hoed in deeply. When the Cab¬ 
bage plants are ready, drills are drawn with 
the corner of the hoe at suitable intervals 
to meet the growth of the variety, and the 
plants set out in the drills and watered in. 
We have, for the time being, pretty well 
mastered the weeds, but hoeing should still 
be continued at frequent intervals. Celery 
should be blanched as required. The blanch¬ 
ing may be started with paper. 

E. Hobday. 


THE COMING WEEK'S WORK. 

Extracts from a Garden Diart/. 

September 2nd .—Made a further sowing of 
Cauliflowers. We do not depend upon these 
autumn sowings altogether, as plants that will 
come quite as early may be raised under glass 
in February. We grow^a good 
flowering bulbs in pr/s and box> 



for cutting—and we find much time in saved 
by potting and boxing early. There is then 
no forcing required for Frees!as. Roman 
Hyacinths, or double Daffodils. There is time 
enough for Tulips yet. 

September 3rd. Orchard house trees are 
placed outside as soon as the fruits are all 
gathered. Repotting, if necessary, will be 
done during September, early in the month, 
and those trees which are not repotted will 
be top dressed. We find top-dressing with 
good loam, suitably enriched, will carry a 
tree in a good-sized pot on for many years. 
We generally turn trees out and examine 
drainage. If a few roots are pruned at this 
season, it is no disadvantage, as new fibres 
break out. 

September Jhlh .— Made a bed of Parsley oil 
a south border, where it can bs easily covered. 
Strong plants will move well. We cut off all 
old leaves. The ground from whieh Onions 
have been taken ha* been prepared for Cab¬ 
bages by deep hoeing, after giving a top¬ 
dressing of soot and superphosphate ; the land 
was well manured for Onions- We are still 
putting in cuttingg, and the routine work in¬ 
cludes the selection of Chrysanthemum buds 
and removal ©f competing shoots. A top¬ 
dressing of loam and manure has been given 
to most. 

September 8th .—We do not. save many seeds, 
but a few choice things have been marked, 
and will be closely looked after and gathered 
when rice eBongh. The flower buds have 
been picked off Zonal Gera'niums for the last 
time this season. We have several Apple and 
Pear-treei marked for root pruning, and the 
work will be done as soon as possible. Looked 
over Strawberries in pots to remove runners 
and weeds. Sowed hardy Lettuces for stand¬ 
ing the winter in seed-beds. 

September ■ Oth .—Reduced the foliage oil 
Tomatoes by shortening back to the first pair 
of leaflets. We want the sunshine to rinen 
the fruits. Planted out a lot of choice Nar¬ 
cissi and a long row of Madonna Lilies. 
Liquid-manure is given to late Melons now 
swelling the crop of fruits. The ventilation 
begins early in the morning, and the house 
is closed at four o’clock, after syringing the 
foliage. No laterals are permitted to grow 
on Peaches. 

September 7th. Planted a house with Tele¬ 
graph Cucumbers. Very little fire-heat will 
be used for a time, as we want sturdy, vigor¬ 
ous growth. Shifted on late Cinerarias, Pri¬ 
mulas, and Calceolarias. These will remain 
in cold pits as long as it is safe. A somewhat 
similar system is carried out with cuttings of 
Geraniums, etc. They are placed in frames 
and the lights stacked away till frost is ex¬ 
pected. This enables us to clear Tomatoes 
out of the houses to make room. 


BEES. 


Bee-flowers —I shall he much obliged for a list 
of flowers specially suitable for bees? 1 have a large 
garden and can plant any number of annuals and 
other honey-bearing flowers, only do not know Avliat 
arc best so as to get a good succession throughout 
the summer. There is very little Clover in the fields 
round, so I had thought of planting it in out-of-the- 
way parts of the garden, only do not know the name 
of the best sort or when and how to plant it.— Iris. 

[Among garden flowers much visited by 
bees, Arabis alpina is one of the earliest, 
much pollen and some honey are obtained 
from Crocus flowers, while a bee flower of -un¬ 
doubted value is the early variety of the yel¬ 
low Wallflower. Limnanthes is a hardy and 
valuable honey-producing plant. Borage, 
which continues to flower till late iu the 
autumn, is constantly visited by bees, its 
drooping blossoms yielding honey even in 
damp weather. The following also produce 
large quantities of bee food, are easy of culti¬ 
vation. and flourish on almost any kind of 
soil:—Trifolium suaveolens. Sweet Sultan, 
Melilotus, Pulmonaria. Phacelia eongesta, 
Candytuft, Dwarf Sunflower. Alyssum mari- 
timum, and A. eaxatile. Among early-flower¬ 
ing shrubs visited by bees are Laurustinus, 
Berberis Aquifolium. and White Thorn. 
The various Willows afford abundance of pol¬ 
len in the early spring, while the Ivy yields 
some honey late in the season. The Giant 
Balsam, coming into flower in August and 
September, gives the bees an opportunity of 
replenishing their cells with stores for the 
winter.] 


ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 
Augubt 20th. 

The meeting held on Hie above date was a 
small one, but the exhibits as a whole were 
very interesting. The Gladioli of Messrs. 
Kelwav, which filled one end of the hall, were 
not quite so good as we have seen in former 
years; but the season has, no doubt, been 
against them. The annuals from Messrs. 
Can no 11 were very fine. These were arranged 
in large bunches, and consisted of Salpi- 
glossis, Godetias, Zinnias, Asters, Phloxes, 
Clarkias, and many others, and, in our 
opinion, were the finest exhibit at the meet¬ 
ing. Messrs. Jas. Veitch and Sons staged a 
fine group of hardy plants and shrubs, note 
worthy being the forms of Bnddleia variabilis. 
Astilbe Davidi, also Eucryphia pinnatifolia, 
were all well shown, while a Hydrangea 
named H. Hortensia Veitchi, in the front of 
the group, arrested attention, owing to the 
rich blue of the flowers. Mr. G. Wythe*, 
Epping. showed some well-grown Ixorss, but 
a few flue foliaged plants intermixed would 
have been an advantage. Mr. A. L. Gwillim, 
New Eltham. «out flowers of Begonias, 
gathered from the open air from eeedling* 
of the present year. They were certainly 
very bright, more especially in the case of 
the double*. Raisers, however, are ©training 
too much for tize in Begonia blooms, which 
to us seems a mistake, as such flowers have 
a “floppy ” appearanoc. A welcome exhibit, 
recalling past times, was that of Cape Polar 
gonium Countes* of Devon, by Mr. Hudson, 
of Gunnershurv House. We should like to 
see these Cape Pelargoniums taken up again, 
and a complete collection formed, as was the 
case many years ago in the R.H.8. gardens 
at Chiswick. A very interesting, and at the 
same time novel exhibit, was made by Messrs. 
W. Bull and Son, in the form of medicinal 
plants in small pots. These included such as 
Liberian Coffee, Para Rubber, Logwood, 
Sweet Olive, Tea plants. Allspice, and manv 
others. The plants were all very healthy and 
clean. Messrs. H. B. May and Sons filled an 
entire table w ith a collection of forms of Cam¬ 
panula isophylla. The plants were well 
grown, and one mass of flower, and included 
C. i. alba. C. i. superba, C. i. Mayi, and the 
variegated form. C. i. Balehiniana. An un¬ 
interesting exhibit was that of Mr. A. Wyatt, 
Warlington. This consisted of single flowers 
of Petunias, each one named. From a pac ket 
of seed the same varieties could, no doubt, 
all be had. Messrs. Paul and Son. Cheshunt, 
sent some of the newer Rears, the meet dis¬ 
tinct in the whole being Le Progres, a tawny 
yellow' Hybrid Tea, and which we lately saw 
in very fine form in the open air in Messrs. 
Cocker and Sons’ nursery at Aberdeen. T. S. 
Ware, Ltd.. Feltham, had Phloxes and Pent- 
6 temons. while from Messrs. Cutbush came a 
variety of Chrysanthemum maximum, named 
The Speaker. We are getting too many of 
these forms, the sole aim and end of raisers 
evidently being size in the flowers. Such 
huge flowers are coarse and ungainly, and 
are certainly not so suitable for cutting ns 
the medium-sized blooms. Mr. Geo. Prince, 
Oxford, also showed cut Roses. 

The fruit exhibits w-ere noteworthy, the 
most interesting to us being the collection of 
Apricots in pots from Messrs. Rivers and Son, 
Sawbridge worth. The plants averaged 
about 3J feet high, and bore freely, the 
varieties represented being Moor Park, 
Peach Apricot, Precoce d’Onllins, llems- 
kerk. Royal, etc. This, taken altogether, was 
the finest exhibit of Apricots in pots we have 
seen. Messrs. W. Paul and Son, Waltham 
Cross, also sent fruit-trees in pot«, including 
Plums, Peaches, and Nectarines. Among the 
Plums, very fine were white Magnum Bonum, 
Goliath, Sultan, and Grand Duke. Among 
the Nectarines we noted Lord Napier and 
Pineapple. The front of the group was com¬ 
posed of Figs, fruiting well in small pots. 
Messrs. Spooner and Son, Hounslow, sent a 
collection of early Apples, as also some fine 
fruits of Rubus sorbifolius, erroneously called 
the Strawberry Raspberry. 

Orchids were well shown by Messrs. Sander 
and Sons, St. Albans ; Armstrong and Brown, 
Tunbridge Wells; Charlesworth. Bradford; 
and Hugh Low and Co. A magnificent speci¬ 
men of LadiD-Cattloya clegans growing in a 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



353 


GARDENING ILL USTKiTED. 


August 31 , 1907 


tub was sent from Major Wolford's garden at 
Tetbury. The plant carried close on 150 
flowers. Sir Trevor Lawrence sent a small 
and interesting group of Habenaria rlicxlo- 
cheila. 

A list of the medals will be found in our 
advertisement columns. 

LAW AMD CUSTOM. 

Workmen s compensation 1 uni in the habit 
of employing a wood-dealer and hurdle-maker, who 
has a timber-yard, to cut down and lop trees on my 
premises from time to time. He sends various men 
to do it. If any accident happens to them while 
doing this, am 1 liable to compensate them'.' —A CON¬ 
STANT Subscriber. 

[As your question is one. of considerable 
importance to many other readers of this 
paper, 1 propose to answer it somewhat fully. 

1 am quite sure that the provisions of this 
new Compensation Act are very imperfectly 
understood by a large number of people, 
who, quite unwittingly, are allowing them¬ 
selves to run a great risk on account of it. 
In this case of yours the answer is simple. 
If the wood-dealer and hurdle-maker who 
contracts to do your work sends one or other 
of his own employees to do it, he is the re¬ 
sponsible person, undoubtedly, because these 
men are in his regular employment.—not in 
yours. But now suppose the wood-dealer 
himself should come to do the work, and in 
the course of doing it should meet with an 
accident; according to my reading of the 
Act. you would bo his employer, and would 
bo liable to compensate him. Here, how¬ 
ever. arises another question. Is the work of 
cutting down and lopping trees on your pro¬ 
mises a form of employment which is con¬ 
nected with vour business or profession? I 
opine that it is not, if the work is done at 
your private residence, for yourself only ; on 
the other hand, if you are a property owner, 
and this work is done at your expense for the 
benefit of tenants, it might be argued that it 
was connected with your business. 1 men¬ 
tion these things in order to show you how- 
uncertain the present position of the law is. 
Opinions given now in regard to this Act are 
necessarily more in the nature of surmise 
than of accurate knowledge; the interpreta¬ 
tion of the Act by the Courts will commence 
in the autumn, and a very large number of 
points will have to be dealt with before we 
know where wo are in the matter. Mean¬ 
time, everybody should insure. Insurance 
in such a matter as this to which you refer is 
quite as necessary as in other matters; it 
forms part of the general protective insurance 
with which every householder ought to shield 
himself. If you insure your household ser¬ 
vants. it is only necessary to pay a slight extra 
percentage in order to cover all casual em¬ 
ployment—or. in simpler ami more practical 
language, to he free from all anxiety as to 
any unforeseen claims arising. If you arc to 
take each person separately whom you employ 
or arc likely to employ, and worry yourself 
as to whether von are or are not liable for 
them, life will become a positive burden ; and 
all this can be obviated for half a crow n a 
year at the most.— Barrister. 

BIRDS. 

Death of bird (,v. 7\, Weybriiirfe ).—The 
bird was in ideal condition, the cause of death 
being the rupture of a blood-veesel near the 
heart. The cause was probably excitement of 
some kind, perhaps a sudden fright.—J. T. 
Bird. 


Catalogues received. — Robert. Sydenham, 
Tenby-street. Birmingham — Bulb List for' 7907.— 
M.M. Vilmorin et Cie., Baris.—Lot of Bulbs and 

Strawberries, etc. -Howdt-n and Coy., Inverness — 

Bulbs and Boots lor Sprint) Bloom. -F. H. Krclage 

and Son. Haarlem. Holland .—List of Bulbs for 190'. 

-Frank Dicks and Co.. Manchester —Bulb and Rose 

Catalogue for 1907. -Webb and Sons. Wordsley, 

Stourbridge .—List of Bulbs for 1907. -Me Hattie and 

Co., Chester .—List of Bulbous Flower Roots. -Ed¬ 

mondson Bros., Dublin. - List of Bulbs, etc.- Fisher. 
Son, and Sibray, Ltd., Handsworth, Sheffield.- List 

of Bulb* for 1907. -B. S. Williams and Son, Upper 

Holloway, London, N .—List of Bulbs and Forcing 
Plants. 


Readers on holiday —During the holiday season 
reader? who find any difficulty in obtaining Garden¬ 
ing Illustrated from the local newsagent or book¬ 
stall. may hove a copy posted regularly for a few 
weeks or longer by sendinga remittance at the rate 
of l^d. a copy to the FuCTtshfir, Garden Isa Illup- 
TKATFD.j J7, Furnivnl-str^tTH^rn, T$h|ij£r;.C\ 


CORRESPON DENOE. 

Questions.— Queries and ansieers are inserted in 
Gakdkninq free of charge if correspondents follow these 
rules: All communications should be clearly and concisely 
written on one sule of the paper only, arid addressed to 
the. Editor of G arousing, 17, f\imival i -strect. Ho thorn, 
London , E.C. Letters on business should be sent to the 
Publisher. The name and address of the sender are 
required in addition to any designation he may desire to 
be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, 
each should be on a separate piece of paper, aiut Hot more 
than three queries should be sent at a time.. Correspon¬ 
dents should bear in mind that, as G ardening has to be 
sent to press some time, in ad nance of date, queries cannot 
always be. replied to in the issue immediately following 
the receipt of their communication. We do not reply to 
queries by post. 

Naming flowers, shrubs, etc.— Fair examples 
of each subject—ue., leaves and shoots as well as glowers 
and fruit—if to be had, mttst be sent. When more 
than one plant is sent each should be numbered. If 
these rules are, not complied with subjects cannot be 
named correctly. 

Naming fruit.— The differences between varieties 
of fruds are in many cases so trifling that it is necessary 
that three examples showing the range of form of each 
kind should be sent. Hot more than four varieties at a 
time should be sent. 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

Dahlia failing [Mr. Allen). —We cannot say what 
is the cause of the failure from t lie H indi bit of 
stem sent. A portion of the stem is quite dead, and 
this may be due to injury on the spot some time 
ago. 

Ncmesla dying ill. K. Huntley).—The plant has 
fallen a victim to a fungus which attack* the plant 
at the ground level, and frequently infest* Asters, 
Stocks, and other annuals. We recommend you to 
give the soil a good dressing of lime this winter, 
and dispense with the ordinary manure dressing for 
a season at least. 

Perennials to bloom in June ( Florette).— 
Incarvillca Dclavayi. Inula glandulosu, Eremums 
Bungci, E. himnlaictis, Campanula Moerhcimi, 
Delphinium Belladonna, Onosina (auric urn, Ononis 
rot undifolia. Iris aurea, 1. Mounieri, Thalictrum 
aqiiilegifolium, T. a. purpureiiin. We gi\e you the 
names of a dozen good things, as requested, but you 
do not say for what purpose you require the plants, 
hence some may be unsuitable. 

Lifting Arum Lilies (Oxford).— Lift, the plants 
early in September, first taking off all the small 
pieces and potting singly. Put lhe plant that is to 
flower into a 6-inch pot, using a compost of rich 
loam and well rotted stable-manure in equal parts. 
Stand in a frame or sheltered place after potting, 
shading if the sun is very strong. After the plant 
lias become established in the new soil, you may re¬ 
move it to the window. The plant you refer to as 
not de\eloping the flowers properly was evidently too 
weak and insufficiently rooted. Grow on the young 
offshoots in a frame, protecting from frost if the 
weather should prove severe, and plant out next 
summer, repotting, as directed above, in September. 

Primroses aud Daffodils under Pirs (Mrs. 

Oaussen).—Ho far as success is concerned, everything 
will depend upon circumstances and whether the Fir- 
trees are merely isolated examples or a plantation 
large or small. In the case of a few trees here and 
there with ample room between, you need have no 
fear of the plants succeeding. Primroses delight in 
the shade of a wood, and where few other tilings 
grow these will thrive quite well. In similar cir¬ 
cumstances the Daffodils may for a time succeed, 
but these tilings require a certain amount of sun¬ 
light to mature the growth. If, however, the Grass 
or turf will grow near, the Daffodils will succeed. 
How long they may so remain depends not a little 
upon the soil. In a moist, clayey soil the bulbs 
may for years succeed, while quickly deteriorating 
m gods of a sandy or gravelly nature. 

Pruning Banksian Roses V. If > As your 
plants were only planted in tin spring of 1906 they 
will not require pruning yet. It is best to allow 
these Roses to crow as they like for two or three 
years, keeping them spread out as much ns possible. 
We presume they arc growing upon a wall. If so, 
nail out some of the growths horizontally, others at 
varying angles, so that the plants are shaped like a 
fan. This will allow air and such sun as we get to 
penetrate, which aids the ripening, for. unless there 
be a good ripening, the blooming will be rather 
meagre. Should there be at any time a tendency to 
overcrowding of the growths, you can without injury 
move a growth or two at any time. Generally, the 
blossoms are produced on the very thin, wire-like, 
semi-pcudulous shoots that arch over so much, so that 
the more we can induce these Roses to partially 
droop, so much the better for the blossoming. 

Roses failing (.1 A’oriee).- Although the weather 
lias been so uncongenial this season, the growth of 
Roses has been remarkably good, so that we think 
the cause of your failure is to be traced to the soil. 
You doubtless erred in giving these newly-planted 
Rosts so much manure. The manure when given 
should be placed beneath the roots, and well mixed 
with tie- lower soil. It should never come into con¬ 
tact with the roots at time of planting. More Roses 
are killed by kindness in over-manuring than not 
giving enough. Possibly, also, you failed to prune 
your Roses enough. They appear to belong to the 
Hybrid Perpetual class, and these are always best if 
pruned back to two or three eyes the first season. 
You would not get such a number of weakly shoots, 
but there would be two or three good growths, whirh 
would be more satisfactory. If the trees are worth 
it, transplant them at the end of October, and re¬ 
move them to a piece of ground where manure has 
not been so lavishly given; but, rather than plant 


decrepit trees, which would always be an eyesore, 
procure some fresh ones fiom a good reliable source. 

Clematis (Louie Small).--A case of the trans¬ 
ference of the coloured nr floral sepals into those of 
a foliate character. These and other freak changes 
and variations in plant life cannot be accounted for 
in any definite way. In the present instance it may 
result from some check or Interruption of the 
ordinary supplies of sap, and it may be due to tlie 
lark or excess of nourishment or to other causes. 
Injury resulting in the rupture of certain of the 
cellular tissues, impeding the progress of the sap, 
may also be a possible or contributory cause. 

Planting Tulips ( Bloodstone ). - The Tulips and 
Grape Hyacinths may be planted any time in Sep¬ 
tember or so soon as the bed is at liberty. The 
Rose-tree can be introduced in the way you suggest 
by leaving a vacant space for the plant. If you 
desire compact, little plants of the Tufted Pansies or 
Violas for planting after ttie Tulips next spring, you 
had better take some of the young shoots from the 
centre of the plants, and prick them off in a border 
apart, so that sturdy and dwarf plants may result. 
This is the more necessary, seeing the plants even 
now are too close, and if allowed to remain until 
May, 1908, they will make a very sorry display. By 
examining the central portion of a single plant you 
will find many young green shoots, and these, if 
pulled away sharply, will he found to be rooted, in 
many instances. By inserting these bits, which 
should he 3 inches or 4 inches long, in any reserve 
plot of ground, good plants will ho forthcoming 
before spring. The Rose you speak of may be pur¬ 
chased from nny of the large growers throughout 
the country, and if yon write to some nf the firms ad¬ 
vertising in our columns for their catalogues, the price 
per plant or per dozen will he seen. We certainly 
think nn entire bed of Roses will be the best, hut you 
may also fill in the intervening spaces between the 
Roses, the Violas carpeting the ground. 


SHORT REPLIES. 


Basil. — The Caper-plant is Capparis spinosa. the 
Capers of commerce being the flower-buds gathered 
while in a young state, their value decreasing ah 
they enlarge. The Caper Spurge (Euphorbia Lathyris) 
has nothing to do with this, and is a poisonous plant, 
the seeds being purgative and decidedly dangerous if 

eaten.- J. Auld.—W c have never heard of the hook 

to which you refer.- Jane Smith.— The specimen 

you send belongs to the Alga?, and is the result of 
damp, poor soil. You cannot expect Daffodils to 
grow in such material, and the sooner you move 
them, if they are of any value, to a more suitable 
position and soil the better. The soil sent is j>oor in 

the extreme.- Kelliug, S .—The Logan-berries came 

to hand in a state of pulp, so much so that the 
postal authorities had to enclose in another package. 
If you will send ns some fruits carefully packed in a 
tin box and containing specimens of the maggot, we 

will then do our best to help you.- Wm. Lambert.— 

" VineB and Vine Culture,” by the late A. F. Barron, 
price f»s. 0d., post free, from IX, Button Court-road, 
Chiswick, London, W.- J. R. V., Glasgow. — " Mush¬ 

rooms and How to Grow Them,” John F. Barter, 
Limited. Napicr-roud, Wembley, K.8.O., Middlesex, 
post free for Is. 2d. L. II.. Ireland. — You could 
give your new variety of Sweet Teas any name you 
like, but if you want it acknowledged by authority as 
a new variety you had better write to the Secretary 
of the National Sweet I’ea Society, Adclaidc-road, 
Brentford, Middlesex. Mrs. Alcock .—Any iron¬ 
monger in your district should be able to procure 
such a birdcage as you want.— A. 8 .—Your best 
plan will be to write to one of the Covent Garden 
salesmen.- E. Pauli .—The plants of Wallflower you 
send have been attacked by some pest—probably, 
•ireworms—at the roots, and if all are like the 
two sent, we can hold out no hope of their being of 
any value. Destroy all those attacked.- —X. Y. 

A basket fixed as you say cannot, we think, be con¬ 
sidered a fixture. Cannot you come to some arrange¬ 
ment with your landlord as to its removal?- 

E. A M.- The mowings from the lawn form a good 
mulching to various crops during a dry season, and 
may be used as directed. If your lawn is very weedy, 
then you had better mix the lawn mowings with 
horse manure or the like, and qse in the ordinary 
wav. The heating will cause the weed-seeds to 
perish. 


NAMES OF PLANTS AND FRUITS. 


Names of plants .—E. Weston, Ross — Veratnim 

nigrum.- Mrs. C. Warren. —I, Spirtea Ulmaria tl. pi.; 

2, Spiriea Bumalda; 3, Buddleia variabilis; 4. Loni- 

cera aureo-reticulata.-CL C.—No. 8, Cassinis 

fulvida.- Limestone. No. 4. Campanula Porten- 

schlagiaua (syn. c. rauralisi.- S., LambetH.— Flower 

too faded to name W. S. H .—Oleuria Haasti.- 

S. T. Didsbury.—Sedmn nlbidum.- Lady Walsh.— 

The specimens* were so dried up when received that 
no opinion could be formed concerning them. Cot¬ 
ton wool had been used about the flowers, this being 
the worst possible material, robbing the flowers of 
their natural juices. This, and the length of time in 
transit , were too much for them, and our attempts to 
revive them were in vain.- Rushen Abbey. — Aspara¬ 
gus Sprengeri—not hardy.- G. F .—The Bladder 

Senna (Colutea arborescena).- Oxford.— 1, Justicia 

carnea, a greenhouse plant.- J. iff.—1, Spiraea 

Douglaai; 2. Golden Rod (Solidago Virguurea).- 

George Platts. —Sedum sexangulare.- Jag. Taylor.— 

1, Abrotanum Absinthium; 2. Stitchwort: must have 

flowers.- W. B. Temple.—I, Statice Bonduelli; 2. 

Camelina sativa, from what we see; foliage and 
flowers ought to have been sent; 3, Medicago lupu- 

lina.- e. C. Alice.—The Onion-plant (Scilla longi- 

bract ata.- Cot. Fetherstonbaudfi. - Gnnr~ Cistu* 

ILUlWlJ “■ 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


No. 1,487 —Vol. XXIX. 


Founded, by W. Robinson, Author qf “ Tho English Flower Garden.” 


SEi’TEMIlXE 7, 1907. 


INDEX. 


Annuals at Reading .. 366 
Apple -blossom, colour 

in.360 

Apple-tree, grubs at 

roots of.368 

Apricots in pots.. .. 359 

Asparagus-beetle .. 363 
Begonias dropping their 
dowers .. .. .. 372 

Birds .371 

Black Currant gall 

mile .371 

Brier, 1’enzance, with 
black spot .. .. 372 

Campanula pusilla alba 37 1 
Chrysan the mums .. 364 
Chrysanthemums, 
miniature .. .. 364 

Chrysanthemums — sea¬ 
sonable hints .. .. 364 

Conservatory .. .. 370 

l>eath's-head moth, the 398 


Dianthu* glacial im 

372 

Enkianthua campanu- 


latua . 

361 

Evergreen-trees, trans- 


planting. 

365 

Ferns 

362 

Ferns in the house 

369 

Ferns oil Cork 

362 

Fern spores, saving 

362 

Fig-tree, overgrown .. 

359 

Flower-bod 

372 

Fruit . 

359 

Fruit garden 

370 

Fruit-houses — ripening 


the wood 

360 

Fruit prospects in West 


Surrey. 

359 

Fruits, little-grown 

3/0 

Garden diary, extracts 


from a. 

370 

Garden, kitchen, making 


a. 

372 


Garden peats and friends 

368 

Garden work 

3711 

Gentiana aeaulis 

372 

Genliana bavarica 

372 

Grapes, late 

370 

Greenhouse, small, von- 


tilation and staging 


for a . 

361 

Growing for market 

372 

Heliehrysum rosmari- 


nifnliuiu (syn. (Izoth- 


amnus rosuiarinifo- 


lius) . 

365 

Heuchoras, difficulties 


with . 

3*57 

Hydrangeas, blue 

365 

Indoor plants 

361 

Iris bucharica 

367 

Jasmine, white, prun- 


in? . 

365 

Law and custom.. 

3/1 

Leaf-moil Id 

362 


Lily, the Scarborough 
(Vallota purpurea) .. 361 
Logan-berries, grub at¬ 
tacking .338 

Mulberry tree infested 
with ants .. .. 368 

Onions diseased .. 369 

Outdoor garden .. .. 370 

Outdoor plants .. .. 366 

Pansies, Tufted, dying 367 
Pear-tree, insects on .. 338 
Pelargonium-leaves un¬ 
healthy .372 

Pelargoniums, feeding, 
growing in pots .. 372 

Plants and flowers .. 361 
Plants for winter bloom¬ 
ing .362 

Plants in l»ad health .. 361 
Plants in the house .. 370 
Plants in wood .. .. 366 

Plum-tree, groen-Hy on 372 


Plum-trees, silver-leaf 

on.360 

Plums cracking .. .. 372 

Plums, market .. .. 360 

Poultry.371 

Rasp berry-bed, making 
a . .. .. 360 

Room and window .. 363 
Rose foliage unhealthy 368 
Rose General Mac- 

Artliur.364 

Rose Grass an Teplitz.. 364 
Rost*, Guelder, treat¬ 
ment of.355 

Rose Hugo Kollor .. 353 
Rose La Tosca .. .. 364 

Rose-leaves, fungus on 368 
Rose, Macartney (Rosa 
bracteatal, the .. 363 
Rose Marquise de Salis¬ 
bury .. .. .. 363 

Rose Mmc. Leon Pain.. 361 


Roses .36.3 

I Roses for pegging down 
I in a long border .. 372 
1 Rosea for pergola .. 372 
Soil, elay, dealing with 

a.369 

Stove .370 

Strawberry planting .. 350 
( Strawberries on early 

borders.310 

Table decoration for 
competition, hints on 368 
Tacsonia failing .. .. 372 

Trees and shrubs .. 365 
Vegetable garden .. 370 
Vegetables .. .. ‘ 369 

Violet-leaves, fungus on 368 
1 Violets, treatment of .. 36(5 
Week’s work, the com¬ 
ing .370 

Willow-leaves, injury to 368 
1 Wood, ripening the .. 370 


FRUIT. 

APRICOTS IN POTS. 

Apricots ripened under glass nre certainly 
superior in flavour to those grown outdoors. 
The fruit may not grow quite so large as the 
trees become old, but what is lost in size is 
gained in other ways, the fruit being clean 
ami more evenly ripened, while it is not so 
much exposed to the attacks of insects, which 
often spoil numbers of wall fruit. The details 
of culture do not materially differ from those 
of other fruits grown in the orchard-house. 
Fruiting trees established in pots can be pur¬ 
chased and will bear fruit the first year, or 
young trees may be potted up from the open 
ground. No return can be expected from 
these for a year or two, hut with proper 
attention they will soon form fruiting trees. 
In either ease they must remain out-of-doors 
until the bloom buds show signs of bursting, 
when it will not be safe to leave them outside. 
On being removed to the orchard-house, this 
structure must have abundant ventilation I 
night and day, excepting when it becomes 
necessary to close it to exclude frost. Do not 
attempt to forward the trees in any way, but 
allow- them to come along as naturally as 
possible. 

The period of flowering is a very critical 
time, the least excitement often causing the 
blossoms to fall off in profusion ; therefore, 
particular attention should be given to the 
maintenance of a cool, airy state of the 
atmosphere, also to assisting the fertilisation 
of the flowers by using a brush and gently 
tapping the trees. In some seasons a very 
thick set will follow, and when such is the 
case, thinning must be performed immedi¬ 
ately the fruit commences to swell, doing it 
with no sparing hand, as it is easier to err on 
the side of leaving too many than too few, 
and over cropping means inferior fruit and 
ruin to the trees. The final thinning should 
take place when the fruits are the size of 
marbles. From this 6tage the trees will re¬ 
quire liberal, supplies of water and liquid- 
manure, often demanding attention in this 
respect twice during the clay, and if the pots 
are very full of roots, a circle of loam and 
cow-manure, placed on the rims of the pots, 
will greatly assist in keeping the balls moist. 
After the fruit has been all gathered, the 
trees had better be removed outside, the same 
attention being still given to watering, not 
omitting the liquid-manure. The necessary 
operations of repotting and surface-dressing 
6hould be completed while the leaves are still 
green, giving young trees a shift into pots 
only one Bize larger until the largest size it 
is desirable to have them in is reached, when 
top-dressing will have to be depended upon 
for providing the roots with a little Fresh run 
annuallv. If stopping the shoots has been 
rightly ’attended to, very little pruning will be 
required, but if the knife has to be used this 
is the best time to do it. as gumming is less 
likely to follow autumn than spring pruning. 
The trees can then be placed on a piece of 

Digitized by (jOL 


ground, where the pots can be protected from 
frost by a covering of leaves, and here remain 
until the time arrives for removing them 
inside again. 

The following varieties I have found suc¬ 
ceed well under pot culture:—Early Moor¬ 
park, Oullins Early Peach, Hemskirk, Large 
Early, Musch-Musch (a small fruit, remark¬ 
ably sweet and melting, worth growing on this 
account as a pot-tree), Peach, and Roval. 

B. 


OVERGROWN FIG TREE. 

1 have, on a south wall, a very line Fig-tree, which 
has borne splendidly for ten years, but this year there 
are only two Figs on it, and it has made an enor¬ 
mous growth, and is covered with leaves. Owing to 
its growing too large I was obliged to prune it last 
year. This was done by cutting right back the 
largest branches. 1 have read your remarks on Fig- 
trees in Gardening, but 1 should be grateful if you 
would tell me what you think I ought to do? I 
must prune it again, as it is much too big, and there 
is no more space for it.—K. 1*. E. 

[It is plainly evident your Fig-tree has got 
out of control. No doubt this haa arisen in 
consequence of the roots having either gone 
down into the subsoil or as a result of their 
ramifying and luxuriating, perhaps, in the 
soil composing the border at the base of the 
wall or in one of the vegetable quarters. 
Either condition would account for the tree 
making too much wood and becoming un¬ 
fruitful. The remedy for this is what we 
have so often had occasion to recommend to 
querists whose trees have been in the came 
plight as yours, and that is to lift and prune 
back the roots, and to confine or restrict them 
to a certain area afterwards. This is a 
never-failing remedy. It always results in 
bringing the trpes into subjection, and they 
never fail to fruit afterwards so long as the 
roots are kept in confinement. This can be 
carried out in two ways—viz., either by 
building a wall round nbout the roots, form¬ 
ing a tank-like receptacle, from 3 feet to 
4 feet square, opening a trench 18 inches 
wide, and distant 3 feet to 4 feet from the 
stem of the tree, and about a yard in depth, 
filling the same with nothing but brick rub- 
bioh, amongst which there should be a pre¬ 
ponderance of old mortar. The brick wall 
must, as a matter of course, be built into or 
attached to the wall on either side of the 
tree, and the trench, if you adopt this ex¬ 
pedient, would extend from the wall on the 
one side of the tree, in a semi circular form, 
to that on the other. The wall may also 
take thie form if you so desire it, blit to 
build it square is the easier method. If the 
bricks are laid in cement, 4\-inch work, or a 
wall one brick thick, will suffice. The base 
or floor may consist of paving-stones, slates, 
or a 4-inch layer of cement concrete, either 
of which should be laid, in any case, right 
under the ball of the tree and up to the base 
of the wall. 

The time to undertake the work will be as 
soon as the leaves ehow signs of having be¬ 
come matured and begin to fall, when you 
should open a trench at the distance named 
from the stem of the tree, eithej* in a 


semi-circular form or square, according 
to whichever method you elect to em¬ 
ploy for the purpose in hand. If a wall has 
to be built, you will need to make the 
trench wide enough for the building to 
bo done conveniently, and the depth need not 
exceed 3 feet, as all roots found below this 
level should be cut off, iu? likewise should all 
that are found when opening or digging tho 
trench. After this is done, the ball must bo 
tunnelled under, and all roote found severed 
close up to the ball; and, as the latter is 
generally a very compact mass of soil and 
roots in the ease of a Fig, it is not a difficult 
matter to place a few supports under it to 
allow of the concreting or the laying of 
slates, as the case may be, being carried out. 
When this is done and firmly set, build the 
wall or fill in the trench with brick rubbish, 
first trimming off and paring quite, smooth 
all broken and severed ends of the main 
roots. In the first case, 3 inches or 4 inches 
of broken bricks should be laid on the floor 
for drainage purposes, and a small opening 
left at one corner of the work to allow water 
to escape. The top course of the wall may 
be level with the ground, or one or two 
courses above it, just as you may think fit. 
When so enclosed, the space is useful for ap¬ 
plying top dressings, mulchings, and in pre¬ 
venting waste of water. When completed, 
fill in between the roots and wall and under 
the ball with turfy loam, chopped moderately 
fine, to which add some fine lime rubbish 
and bone-meal. In either case, remove the 
old soil on the top of the ball down to the 
roots, and replace it with the same kind of 
compost, afterwards mulching the surface 
with some short litter, giving the whole a 
good watering if the soil is at all dry. Next 
spring you may, if necessary, reduce the tree 
to smaller dimensions by removing n few' of 
such branches as are least furnished with 
young ehoots or bearing wood; but avoid 
cutting out branches in a wholesale fashion. 
During next season give careful attention to 
watering the tree at the roots, and when the 
crop is swelling off, afford diluted liquid- 
manure weekly.] 


Fruit prospects In West Surrey.— Stone 
fruits, as Peaches. Nectarines, Plums, and 
Apricots, are plentiful this year, but. growth 
was much checked by the long spell of cold 
weather, giving insect, pests the opportunity 
to secure a firm footing, and I have found 
them very difficult to dislodge. Cordon 
Pears on a south-east Avail are very good, but 
on a north-west aspect decidedly thin, prob¬ 
ably owing to a slight difference in the flower¬ 
ing season, as a few days in the time when 
full expansion is in evidence makes all the 
difference. I have on a south west wall 
Knight’s Early Black, Frogmore Bigarreau, 
Governor Wood, Bigarreau Napoleon, and 
Florence, dessert Cherries, all protected with 
the same thickness of fish-netting. Of these, 
whilst the earlier sorts are a total failure, the 
later ones’ arc carrying fine crops, another 
case, presumably of a few days’ difference in 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 
































3G0 


GARDENIA G 1L LUSTE. IT ED. 


September 7, 1907 


the flowering stage. Apples are an erratic 
cr0 p—plenty on some trees, others quite bare. 
An old favourite of mine, Gravenstein, a 
second early, usually very shy, is carrying a 
fine crop. The earliest Apples are late, a 
note which, on the face of it, reads a para¬ 
dox, but I naturally mean late in their sea¬ 
son. Mr. Gladstone, for instance, was not 
ready for dessert until the end of the first 
week in August. Quinces and Mulberries arc 
good, and Filberts are a very heavy crop.— 
E. Bl' ft KELI.. 


MAKING A RASPBERRY BED. 

Will, you kimlly give me ins! ructions for I ho above? 
I mu confident you have already imMi-lini thin in 
your paper, hut in nil my hack number* I cannot 
coma across It. Kindly nay bent sorts for heavy soil 
(clay subsoill, tin; time the rune* should he planted, 
and how treated sifter pIsinlinR. say. for the first 
\ear? Mv rhHcii has a full of about :i feet In 
140 feet.-K. Nth a so. 

[Raspberries will thrive and hear fruit in 
almost any kind of soil that is well manured ; 
hut the finest fruit is produced by plants 
growing in a deep, rich loam. Raspberries 
produce a thick mass of libres near the sur¬ 
face, and. therefore, are very susceptible to 
drought, Avhicli causes the fruit to come small 
and shrivelled. Before a new plantation is 
made, the ground should be trenched two 
good spits deep, or, what is better, 2^ feet. 
This must, however, in some measure depend 
on the character of the subsoil, ns if it he of 
au inferior quality it will not be advisable to 
bring much of it to the sur¬ 
face. When trenching, plenty 
of manure or garden refuse 
should be worked into the 
ground, which, in your case, 
should also be well loosened 
with a fork. The best time for 
planting is ms soon as the canes 
have shed their leaves. The 
mode of planting must, in some 
measure, he regulated by the 
form in which the canes are in¬ 
tended to he trained. Where 
slakes are available, the 
simplest plan is to tie the hear¬ 
ing canes to them, taking earn 
flint they are securely lixed in 
lhe soil. The stakes should 
stnud out of the soil about 
4J feet, and to each of them 
should be tied, when the plants 
have become established, five 
or six of the strongest and beat- 
placed canes from each stool 
after the fruiting canes of the 
previous season have been re¬ 
moved. Assuming that this 
plan of training is adopted, 
they should be planted in lines 
not less IIIuu f> feet apart, 
and the distance asunder in the line should 
he the same, or not less than 4 feet. They 
will not throw up very strong growths the 
first year, but if the fruit be sacrificed and 
the canes cut to within 1 foot of the ground, 
they will throw up much stronger canes the 
following season. Another mode of training 
is called the hedge system, which consists in 
placing strong posts at each end of the row, 
connecting these with galvanised wires, 
strained through intervening iron standards. 
Thus a trellis is formed on which the canes 
are trained, and, if properly fixed, a planta¬ 
tion of Raspberries thus treated will last for 
years. Where this system is adopted the 
canes should be planted about 1 foot apart, 
and the shoots should be trained a little 
diagonally. Some growers dispense wholly 
with supports ; they merely place the canes 
in bundles and unite the tops from each pair 
of stools, thus forming a series of arches, on 
which the fruit is borne. This is. however, 
a plan which cannot be recommended. After 
planting, surface-dress with decayed manure. 
During the summer the ground must he kept 
clear of weeds, and the soil occasionally 
loosened with the Dutch hoe. When the 
plants have become established and the young 
canes in the growing season have made about 
a foot of new wood, all useless suckers should 
be pulled away in order to admit light nnd air 
to such canes ns are selected to remain. 
When the fruit is gathered the canes that 
have borne it should he at once cut out. so as 
to give increased ap^ce to those|intended to 

Digitized by CjOOQIC 


bear next year’s crop, and as soon as the 
leaves have fallen the latter should be thinned 
and regulated. After regulating the canes, 
some recommend that the ground be dug and 
a quantity of manure worked in about the 
roots, but it is questionable whether such 
practice is not a mistake. A better plan is 
to loosen the surface with a steel fork, and 
then to mulch with 2 inches or 3 inches of 
decayed manure, which will protect the sur¬ 
face roots from frost in winter and drought in 
summer. Of varieties, the best are Fastolf, 
Bauinforth's Seedling (here figured). Semper 
Fidelis. Belle de Fontenay, Hornet, and 
Superlative.] 


MARKET PLUMS. 

A FEW days since 1 walked round Kingston 
and its ancient market, and found Plums iu 
great quantities everywhere, and fairly cheap, 
but not a ripe, eatable one amongst them. 
All the fruits were unripe, and fit only for 
stewing; and even when so treated, unless 
with their own weight of sugar, how fright¬ 
fully bitter! It is the unfortunate lot of the 
town dweller who purchases fruit, and likes 
to have it sweet and good, that he rarely can 
do so. Just now almost the only ripe, eat¬ 
able fruits of kinds we grow hero are 
Williams’ Bon Chretien Pears, offered at one 
penny each, but these, so neatly packed ill 
small boxes, come from France. When 
English fruits arc gathered they will lie so in 


If it is, I presume, from what 1 have read In GARDEN¬ 
ING, there is no cure for the disease. The trees have 
borne little or no fruit for years.—J. Dixon. 

[Judging from the lenves you send, your 
Plum-trees are certainly attacked by silver- 
leaf. We should not destroy them. They 
are, evidently, growing strongly, and yon 
might try what root-pruning will do in tlio 
autumn.] 

Colour in Apple blossom - fan you kiudly Rive 
me the names of some Apple-tree* which, besides 
heaririR Rood fruit, are m.ticeuble fur the beauty • i 
their blossom? I would wish to know of some which 
have bloasom* of a more or less rosy colour. When 
1 was asked the other day to supply the names of 
some such tree* 1 felt unable lo do so.-J. W. 

[The following six Apples have very highly- 
coloured flowers : King of the Pippins. 
Brantley**. Etklinville, Early Codlin, Frog 
more Prolific, and Lord Btifficld.] 
Strawberries on early borders. It is in 
late seasons like the present when these conic 
iu most, useful, especially where a constant 
supply is needed, seeing those grown in pots, 
etc., arc over, and outdoor crops are not 
ready. This year it was well into July bo- 
fore Strawberries iu the o|x*n garden were 
ripe, hut from a narrow, warm border iu 
front of a glass house I gathered the first on 
June 21st. These were young plants from 
4-inch pots, set out a foot apart each way 
at the end of last August. It is astonishing 
how niaiiy may lx* had from a small space, if 
ood, strong plants are put out in the autumn, 
t is not a question of a deep rooting medium, 
8 inches to 10 inches deep being quite enough. 
I ullow the plants to remain two years in the 
same place, planting a few every year. These 
young plants throw one strong spike, and 
from this may be had from five to seven 
fruits. I have seen soil put on a hard bottom 
in front of a warm house at Rood Ashton, 
and fine crops obtained. Those that have 
glass lights can readily place them over beds 
in this position by putting a few pegs against 
the wall, and a hoard on its edge in front to 
rest the light on. By so doing many days 
are gained. I find plants pegged into squares 
of turf, 3 inches deep, planting them when 
rooted through, answer equally as well as 
pots. Those that have not border accommo¬ 
dation should arrange their young plants so 
that lights mny be placed over them. - 
Dorset. 

Fruit-houses ripening the wood. Now 

the autumn is approaching after the sunless 
summer, attention should be given to this 
important point. In many eases hut little 
thought is given to trees after the fruit is 
gathered. When the summer is a warm, 
sunny one, all g«M*s well, hut this is not so iu 
seasons of this kind, and I am convinced 
many of the failures in fruit culture arise 
from uon-ripeiiing of the wood. The advan¬ 
tage of keeping the roots near the surface is 
all important, both under glass and in tin* 
open. This is seen in a marked way in sea¬ 
sons of this kind. Trees that are deep root- 
ing go on producing large, coarse wood that 
never ripens. In the open, one has no con¬ 
trol of the atmosphere, hut this is not so 
under glass, and every attention should be 
given during the next three months to pro¬ 
mote the ripening of the wood hv giving all 
the air possible, and, where it can be done, 
fire heat should be given if the growth is 
coarse and strong.—J. C. F. 

Strawberry planting.— Though lacking in 
warmth and sunshine, the season is certainly 
a more propitious one for this kind of work 
than the previous one was, inasmuch as the 
soil is thoroughly moist, rendering artificial 
watering quite unnecessary. Under these con¬ 
ditions. the roots get to work nnd permeate 
the surrounding soil more readily than they 
do when the water-pot or hose has to be fre¬ 
quently resorted to, especially when the water 
is hard and cold, and drawn from the main. 

I shall also lie surprised and disappointed if 
the plants do not make more satisfactory leaf 
growth than has been the case for the past 
two or three seasons ; and, ns a matter of fart, 
they have already mode more growth than 
they did by the end of September last year, 
when the heat was so great. If the months of 
September and October should prove to be 
fine and warm, so that the crowns may get 
thoroughly ripened, there will be every pros¬ 
pect of the early-layered Strawberry plants 
yielding art exe^llaritWetum next season.— 



lU«|>l*crrv Bauinforth's Seedling. 


an unripe condition, nml be tumbled pell- 
mell into large baskets, and be most un¬ 
attractive. Why cannot our home fruit 
growers adopt French methods? The French 
fruit is no better than ours, but it is so ad¬ 
mirably presented, and in smnll boxes can 
he purchased so readily without being 
handled or bruised. Surely there is ere 
now plenty of Plums sufficiently ripe to ren¬ 
tier grading of the best into 6 lb. or 8 lb. 
boxes a profitable transaction! When the 
fruits, if well ripened, are so packed and 
offered forsatC. not being at all bruised, they 
will keep sound for a week at leust, and thus 
constitute welcome dessert. When, as is un¬ 
doubtedly the ease, vast numbers of towns 
people prefer a fruit diet, every effort should 
be made to cater for that taste, yet how little 
does it seem to he done. There is to-day 
such a clinging to old methods that are quite 
out-of-date. As there is this year an im¬ 
mense crop of Plums, no doubt we shall pre¬ 
sently be deluged with complaints of low 
prices, and of a glut in the market ; yet what 
have growers done in the way of thinning 
their too heavy crops of fruit, to enable what 
is left on the trees to become finer than is 
the average sample? It is the finest, best 
finished, most carefullv graded, and neatest 
packed fruits that obtain the best price in the 
market. A. D. 


Bllver leaf on Plum trees—I enclose herewith 
some cult inns from my Plum-trees, which, I fear. are 
affected with silver-leaf. I shall be much obliged i* 
you vill inform me whether such is really the cuse 


U^TV^RSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 
















September 7, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


3G1 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 


INDOOR PLANTS. 


ENKIANTHUS CAMPANULATUS. 

The genus Enkianthus ia a small one, its re¬ 
presentatives occurring principally in 
Southern and Eastern Asia, extending to 
Japan. Botanically, it is a near relative of 
the Andromedas ; indeed, some of its mem¬ 
bers have been included in that genus. Al¬ 
though there are, perhaps, ten or a dozen 
species, practically the only one that can be 
obtained from nurseries is Enkianthus cam¬ 
panula! us, a flowering spray of which is here¬ 
with figured. In its native country of Japan 
it forms a slender, bushy tree of 30 feet in 
height, but here it must be regarded rather 
as a small or medium-growing shrub. It is 
deciduous, the leaves being from 1^ inch to 
2 inches in length, ovate in shape, firm in 


THE SCARBOROUGH LILY (VALLOTA 
PURPUREA). 

This showy South African bulbous plant 
flowers, as a rule, in the month of September, 
at which time it forms a pleasing change in 
the greenhouse where many of the summer¬ 
blooming subjects are on the wane. It is too 
! well known to need any lengthy description, 
but there are items in its successful culture 
not so fully understood. Like the Nerines 
and other bulbs from the same region, this 
Vallota immediately after blooming continues 
to perfect its growth for another season, so 
! that when the flowers are over a good light 
position in the greenhouse should be assigned 
I it, and water must be given whenever neces¬ 
sary ; indeed, if the pots are full of roots an 
occasional dose of weak liquid-manure will 
I be helpful. This should be discontinued 
! before winter sets in. Throughout this last- 
named season the plants will, to a great ex- 
| tent, retain their leaves, but towards the end 
I of spring they show signs of partial rest. 



Enkianthus campanulatus. From a photograph in Messrs. Veitch’s nurjery at Chelsea. 


texture, dark green above, and paler beneath. 
They are arranged in clusters towards the 
points of the shoots, as may well be 6een in 
our illustration. The flowers, borne in pen¬ 
dent racemes, are reddish in colour, the 
depth of hue varying a good deal, according 
to the amount of exposure the plants have 
been subjected to. They are borne towards 
the end of May or in June. Many of the 
leaves change to yellow in the autumn before 
they drop. 

This Enkianthus succeeds best in a fairly 
moist, yet well-drained, 6oil of a peaty 
nature ; indeed, conditions such as Azaleas 
and Rhododendrons delight in are especially 
favourable to its well-doing. It is certainly 
a very pretty and distinct shrub, well worth 
a place in any collection of Ericaceous plants. 

Beside E. campanulatus the Kew Hand 
Lists contain the names of E. cernuua, 
Japan ; E. himalaicus, Himalayas and 
China; E. japonicu.s, Japan; and E. quinque- 
florus, China; but, as abov^tatod, it ' 11 

nigh, if not quite, impossible ttr>obkj 
from nurseries. VJV ' 1 


At no time are they so thoroughly dormant 
as to need the parching up that Nerines re¬ 
quire to induce them to flower well; indeed, 
Vallotas thrive best if the soil is always kept 
slightly or moderately moist, increasing the 
supply as the flower spikes appear. These 
bulbs by no means need repotting every year, 
lienee when this operation is carried out the 
compost should be such as will remain in good 
condition for a long time. Yellow loam 
lightened by a little well-decayed leaf-mould 
and a liberal sprinkling of silver sand just 
suits the requirements of the Vallota. As 
above stated, annual repotting is not neces¬ 
sary, for even when the bulbs are tightly 
packed in the pots they will grow and flower 
well year after year. When a number of 
plants arc in bloom together, it will be at 
once apparent that they are not all of equal 
merit, and many individual differences may 
be seen. Within the last few years—princi¬ 
pally, I think, since the South African war 
a great number of bulbs, collected where they 
grow wild, have been sent to this country. 
These bulbs reach here about midsummer, 



and they should be potted as soon after re¬ 
ceipt as possible. Even then they do not 
readily become established, and flowers of a 
starry character predominate amongst them. 
Possibly owing to this leavening by means of 
imported bulbs, the old-fashioned type, with 
broad segments, which thus form a broad and 
well-rounded flower, is not so much met with 
as it was formerly. 

Several varieties of Vallota purpurea have 
been put forward at one time or another, one 
of the finest being that known as eximia, a 
large, hold, brightly-coloured flower with a 
white throat. Beside this, pink and salmon 
pink forms are occasionally met with among 
imported bulbs, and I have heard more than 
once of a pure white variety, but it has never 
been my good fortune to see it; neither am I 
aware that it has ever been publicly exhibited. 
From its affinity to the Hippeastrums, experi¬ 
ments in crossing have been many times made 
between the two, but, though success has 
been claimed by some, their results have not 
been put into commerce. There is, however, 
one very pretty hybrid in cultivation, ob¬ 
tained by the intercrossing of Vallota pur¬ 
purea and Cyrtanthus (Gastronema) san¬ 
guineus, which was first raised about a quarter 
of a century ago. This, known as Cyrtanthus 
(Gastronema) hybridus, is a smaller and 
more slender plant than the Vallota, while 
the different individuals vary in colour from 
deep scarlet to pinkish. One of this latter 
hue was given a first-class certificate by the 
Royal Horticultural Society about twenty 
years ago. It needs just the same treatment, 
as the Vallota, and flowers at about the same 
time. X. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Plants in bad health. —I have been troubled for 
a long time with plants in my greenhouse going oil - . 
The leaves get covered at the hark with a minute 
white deposit, arid very often there arc small, brown 
insects as well. I send a few of the affected leaves, 
which 1 hope will arrive in sullieiently good condi 
tion to lot you see what is the matter. It has 
attacked Ro.se and Lily-leaves, and has completely 
killed a Coha»a senndens and a (Mianthus Dampieri. 

I fumigate the house about every two months; bul 
this does not seem to help, although it kills green 
and white-flies. I have also been troubled then- 
last few weeks with some dozens of large blue¬ 
bottle-flies, which nfe making black deposits on 
practically everything. If you can suggest remedies 
for both the above troubles, 1 shall he grateful?— 
A. w. Fell. 

[The leaves sent were, in nearly every case, 
badly infested with red-spider, while in addi¬ 
tion some of them were attacked by thrips. 
These pests have, no doubt, made such head¬ 
way owing to the atmosphere of the structure 
being maintained in too dry a state—a condi¬ 
tion very favourable to their rapid increase. 
A liberal use of the syringe will do a good 
deal towards keeping these insects in check, 
but in the state yours are in more drastic 
treatment, will be necessary. Vaporising with 
the XL All vaporiser will kill all the thrips. 
but not their eggs, so that it should be done 
two or three times at intervals of a fortnight. 
Where the foliage is so infested with red- 
spider as yours, a good remedy is to dissolve 
a piece of soft-soap about the size of a hen’s 
egg in 2£ gallons to 3 gallons of hot water. 
When thoroughly dissolved, add thereto 2 oz. 
of sulphur, well stirring and working the 
syringe till the whole is thoroughly mixed to¬ 
gether. Then 6yringe the plants with this 
mixture, taking caro to wet the underside of 
every leaf, or numbers will escape. After a 
few days, syringe with clean water, and con¬ 
tinue to do so from once to two or three times 
a day, according to the weather. There is a 
glass dome-shaped trap made to catch wasps, 
which we have found very useful for trapping 
blue-bottles. This trap stands on three short 
legs, but it may also be hung up where flies 
abound.] 

Ventilation and staging for a small green¬ 
house-— Would you kindly let. me know sizes ami 
how muny ventilators would be required in a span- 
roof greenhouse, 15 feet by P> feet, and the best 
method of arranging stages and shelves to give the 
greatest amount of room in same? — J. O. E. 

[The ventilators in a greenhouse roof are 
usually arranged to suit the size of glass of 
which the roof is composed. For example, 
if the roof is glazed with 21 ounce glass. 
1G inches by 20 inches, twlotsiich squares of 
glass, with the. necessary woodwork, would 
make a suitable ventilator. For 'lie house 
you name, a couple of lliesy would he ample, 



302 


GARDENING ILL UST RATED. 


September ?, 1907 


plaeing them always preferably on the 
southern 6ide. If the glass employed on the 
roof is of a less size than that named above, 
three squares might be used for each ven¬ 
tilator. In 6o narrow a house, the only pos¬ 
sible internal arrangement would be a cen¬ 
tral path of 2£ feet wide, or less if you prefer 
it, dividing the remainder equally between 
the two sides. With the door at one end, 
two side stages and one end stage would be 
possible. If you desire side stages to ap¬ 
proach as nearly as may be the indestruc¬ 
tible, the “knee-pieces,'’ or supports for 
the stage, should be of wood and iron, the 
former 2.} inches by 4 inches, let into the 
side wall, with inch iron piping sunk into the 
hearer, and set into the ground in cement. 
A11-wood bearer and upright will cist a little 
less. For either of these the best covering is 
corrugated iron, and w ith a 4-inch deep bead¬ 
ing on the face, ashes or sand could be placed 
on the stages to set the plants on. Such a 
stage is a decided gain over the open wood 
stage, and not only greatly assists the plants 
by keeping them cool and moist at the root, 
but by preventing the drip from passing 
away, admits of the space beneath the stage 
being used to much greater advantage. If 
from any cause you cannot arrange this kind 
of stage, its best substitute is the open wood 
stage, covered with slates or block-tin, the 
latter fastened down by large-headed tacks, 
for the same purpose. As to shelves, a 6-ineh 
wide shelf may be fixed at about 9 inches 
below the eaves of the house on either side, 
nnd at a similar height at the one end. In 
so narrow a house, no other shelf should be 
placed—indeed, shelves, as a rule, are by no 
means the most desirable items, and usually 
many of the plants placed thereon arc 
neglected. The spaces below the stages will 
l»c of service for storing bulbs or starting 
such things as Lilies. Tulips. Hyacinths, etc. 
Frequently, in these small structures, the 
pathway room is altogether disproportionate, 
and by modifying this defect at the start, 
much stage room is saved.] 

Leaf-mould. —Leaf-mould is very often re¬ 
commended to be used with loam for potting, 
and everyone who has used it knows its value, 
but I apprehend there is sometimes a diffi¬ 
culty in obtaining it. We do not all live in 
the country, where from a neighbouring wood 
it can be had, but very many who have gar¬ 
dens and trees therein can make their own 
leaf mould by collecting the leaves as they 
fall, and placing them together in a heap. A 
good plan is to hoard off some out-of-the-way 
corner in a garden not much used, and take 
each consignment there, as by this means 
the leaves do not get blown about by wind 
when the henp is left uncovered. Lime, 
Beech, and Oak loaves make capital leaf- 
mould, and it is often an easy matter to pro¬ 
cure, at least, the first-named.- Townsman. 

Plants for winter blooming— No time 
should be lost by these who wish to have 
plants for blooming in their greenhouses in 
winter, in getting together what is required. 
If arrangements have not previously been 
made to grow on plants with this object, care 
should be taken to secure only those that 
have been kept from blooming in the sum¬ 
mer. Some of the subjects one most often 
meets with as summer tenants in our green¬ 
houses arc just as useful for beautifying the 
place in the winter days, provided they have 
been prepared with that end in view'. Zonal 
Pelargoniums, for instance, that possess a 
wealth of delicate colours, and are such pro¬ 
fuse bloomers, are none the less so in a warm 
house in the winter, if, ns previously stated, 
they have been grown during the summer 
with that end in view, and to those who have 
had experience of these charming old things, 
for winter blooming, such sorts as Olive Carr 
(pink). F. V. Raspail Improved ( semi-double 
scarlet), W. Bealbv (scarlet). Niohetos, and 
Swanlev White will be remembered as varie¬ 
ties that do well for winter blooming. Very 
sweet, too, are the blossoms of Heliotrope, 
and. with a few pots of Mignonette, the 
house need not lack fragrance. Bouvardins, 
Primulas, and Cinerarias supply us with 
rich colours, and all these may be secured 
now. Plants intended for blooming in win¬ 
ter should be n^rnovoiL to tluurjlii^il quarters 
abbot the mid< %> qf yjyl to after that 

time it is, in some localities) risky to leave 


them in cold frames without at least some 
night covering. Chrysanthemums, that ap¬ 
peal to so'many, will supply flowers well on 
up to Christmas ; but it is after that time 
that the other subjects named give much 
beauty in a house, and, together with bulbs 
potted up in October, there should be no lack 
of flowers.— Leahurst. 


FERNS. 

FERNS ON CORK. 

Virgin Cork may be used in various ways. 
It is the best material for growing all the 
Stag's-horn Ferns on. Pockets may be 
formed which hold some soil and Moss, and 
when the young plants are fixed on these they 
do better than when grown on wood or tree- 
stumps where they do not get so much soil 
to root into. Although under favourable 
conditions these will subsist entirely on at¬ 
mospheric moisture and the decaying basal 
or shell-likc fronds among which the roots 
spread freely, by providing a little suitable 
compost for the roots to penetrate into, it is 
much easier to keep them in a healthy, 
vigorous state. Many other Ferns may also 
be grown in these Cork pockets. Asplenium 
caudatum and A. longissimum do well, and 
when hung against a moist wall, their long, 
drooping fronds are seen to the best advan¬ 
tage. The pockets should be made as large 
as possible for those, and any openings may 
be stopped with Sphagnum Moss. I. find, if 
treated well, the above do better than when 
grown in suspended pots. Adi an turn Edg- 
worthi (cilifttum). A. caudatum, A. dolabri- 
forme, and A. lunulatum, also any of the 
capillus-Veneris section, do well. Most of 
the Davalliaa are particularly adapted for the 
purpose, also the Nephrolepis, and many 
others might be enumerated. Where shady 
walls have to be covered, a suitable selection 
well arranged is most effective. In making 
the pockets, broad, flat pieces should be 
selected to form the backs, and the cup or 
pocket may be formed with pieces that curl 
round more. In using up a bale of Cork, 
pockets of various sizes will have to be 
made, and these can be used for the various 
Ferns according to their habits of growth, 
but even if small plants of the large-growing 
sorts are used, large pockets should be given, 
as there is not much danger of over-watering, 
and it is not so convenient to transfer them 
to larger sizes as it is to repot from one size 
to the other. A similar compost may be 
used as is given for the various sorts when 
grown in pots. I like to use Sphagnum Moss 
for all. In joining the Cork there are sure to 
be some spaces which require stopping, and 
by using Sphagnum a certain amount of mois¬ 
ture can be kept up without risk of the soil 
getting sour. In filling the pockets, care 
should be taken that the soil is well worked 
into all the narrow crevices. 

If well managed, many Ferns will do much 
bettor in those pockets than when grown in 
pots, besides which they can be given posi¬ 
tions where they are seen to the best advan¬ 
tage. Cork* may also be used for forming 
stems, using wood for a foundation. The 
stems may be made of any size, and, being 
hollow in the centre, more soil can be used 
than when tree-stumps are employed. For 
the larger stems a flat board 4 inches to 
6 inches wide may be used. A fillet should 
be firmly nailed on either side. The width 
will depend upon the height the stem is to be 
made. It should be broad at the base and 
fixed firmly to a broad flat board. In cover¬ 
ing the woodwork, the Cork can be selected 
so as to form pockets at various distances, 
and the Cork can be nailed firmly to the wood, 
or wire may be used to fix the Cork where the 
nails will not reach the wood. Stems that 
are intended to be moved about should not be 
made more Ilian 5 feet high, and these should 
be at least 18 inches square at the base. To 
avoid making them too heavy, the larger 
spaces mav be partly filled up with any 
rough, light material. The coarse siftings 
from peat will answer the purpose well, but 
they must be pressed in firmly and care taken 
that all the spaces are filled to prevent the 
soil falling away from the roots. Smaller 
stems may be made by U6ing a single piece of 


wood to fix the Cork on, or tree-stems covered 
with Cork may be recommended. I have 
seen the smaller stems fixed in pots, but I 
prefer a wooden base for all sizes, as there is 
no danger of breakage. It must be under¬ 
stood that they all require firmly fixing, for 
the weight is considerable when filled and 
watered. If there are a few cracks or cre¬ 
vices open, they should be filled with Moss, 
and if this does not grow, the roots of the 
Ferns will penetrate and hold the soil to¬ 
gether after they are well established. 

For the large stems various Ferns may be 
used, and small plants of Ficus repens Kelp 
to make a nice groundwork. In filling the 
stems, it may be necessary to disturb the 
roots of the Ferns, but they will soon re¬ 
cover if kept close for a few days. It re¬ 
quires care in watering to start with, as 
some of the balls may dry while the surface 
appears moist, but after the roots have well 
penetrated there will be little difficulty, and 
in most instances Ferns treated in this way 
will give less trouble than when grown in 
pots. Grower. 


SAVING FERN SPORES. 

If spores are sown during the autumn, a good 
supply of seedlings for early spring work is 
ensured. Although Fern spores may be sown 
at any season, and good results follow, it 
is from those sown either early in the spring 
or during the autumn that success is best ob¬ 
tained. It is during the summer and autumn 
that spores shoulcf be collected, for those 
matured during the bright sunny weather in¬ 
variably prove more prolific than those pro¬ 
duced during the dull, damp winter months. 
As much depends upon collecting the spores 
at the right time as in the sowing and after 
treatment. It is not an uncommon error to 
suppose that the fertile fronds will hold their 
spores for an almost indefinite period, with 
the result that the fronds are often taken 
after all the best spores have escaped. Take 
Pteris argyrea as an instance. The true 
spores are black, and they drop from the 
fronds as soon as the spore cases are open, 
but there still remain the spore cases, and 
when these are rubbed a lot of fine brown 
dust is obtained, which may by chance con¬ 
tain some good spores, but all the best will be 
gone. This applies to all Ferns in a more or 
less degree. 

In collecting Fern spores it is interesting to 
note the various shades of colour. The 
Adiantums vary; some (as in A. scutum) aie 
yellow, others vary from pale brown to black 
(A. cuneatum is brown and A. aeimilum al¬ 
most. black). The true spores of Osmunda 
palustris are bright green, of Dicksonia 
antarctica bright yellow, and, if taken at the 
right time, very abundant. In the Gymno- 
grammas (gold and silver) the spores are al¬ 
most black. Generally a good deal of the 
coloured powder comes off with the spores; 
but, if lightly shaken % on a piece of paper, the 
dark (true) spores will be found underneath 
the yellow or white powder. Another im¬ 
portant matter in collecting spores is to take 
them from plants which have been isolated, 
as far as possible, from others which produce 
spores freely. I like to take the fronds as 
soon as the spore cases begin to open. Al¬ 
though it is generally supposed that Fern 
spores will keep for an almost indefinite time, 
and under various conditions, I am quite 
satisfied that they soon perish, and, although 
under favourable conditions they inay retain 
their vitality for a considerable time, there 
is great risk in using spores which have been 
kept long, especially if they have been damp. 
I prefer to have new spores, when possible, or 
for spring sowing those collected now may be 
relied upon, but they should be properly 
dried and then kept in a cool, drv place. If 
more attention were paid to collecting and 
keeping spores under proper conditions so 
many failures would not occur. 

Grower. 


“The English Flower Garden and Home 
Grounds. New Edition, 10th, recited, with descrip¬ 
tions of all the best plants, trees, and shrubs, their 
culture, and arrangement, illustrated on wood. Cloth, 
medium Svo, L r >s.; post free, loe^fkL 
“The English Flower Garden" way ulso l* 

had finely, bound, in 2 veils., half vellum, tfys. nett. (Jj 
all booksellers. 


September ?, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


363 



ROSES. 

ROSE HUGO ROLLER. 

This novelty was exhibited recently by the 
raisers, Messrs. W. Paul and Son, of‘Wal¬ 
tham Cross, at a meeting of the Royal Horti¬ 
cultural Society, where it received a unani¬ 
mous award of merit. It is one of those Tea 
Roses beloved of the artist, its charm con¬ 
sisting in the exquisite blending of two dis¬ 
tinct colours—lemon-yellow and glowing 
crimson-pink. Many Tea Roses have delight¬ 
ful tints, but they suffuse the petals all 
through the flower, whereas in Hugo Roller 
we have, as it were, a lemon-yellow centre 
placed inside a circle of rich crimson-pink 
petals. This novelty cannot fail to please 
those who grow for garden decoration, and 


THE MACARTNEY ROSE (ROSA 
BRACTEATA). 

This beautiful species was brought to Eng¬ 
land in 1795 by Lord Macartney, who dis¬ 
covered it during his embassy to China, its 
native country. It is a thousand pities that it 
is not more generally cultivated, as it makes 
a most striking plant when grown against a 
wall with a sunny aspect. The effect of the 
magnificent pure white gold-centred flowers, 
often 5 inches in diameter, standing out in 
bold relief against the glossy evergreen foli 
age, is hardly to be surpassed in the Rose 
garden, and yet how rarely is it seen. The 
plant has almost every possible recommenda¬ 
tion, except that it is not quite hardy enough 
to stand a cold winter in the open uninjured, 
but, grown against a wall with a southerly 


and making a very handsome plant grown 
against a low wall. 

Species and varieties alike thrive admirably 
budded on Brier seedling or cutting stocks, 

! the quickest and most satisfactory method of 
propagation. It is surprising that there 
should not have arisen more varieties of a 
! Rose possessing so many essential qualities as 
the Macartney, which, in addition to being 
thoroughly perpetual, produces flowers of 
such great size and fragrance, grows so 
| freely, and has such beautiful evergreen foli¬ 
age. No doubt there is great difficulty in get- 
ting seed to ripen out-of-doors in this country, 
but it might have been thought that in these 
days, when so much artificial crossing takes 
place under glass, that raisers would have 
thought it worth while to make the experi- 
! ment of employing the Macartney Rose, if 
only on the chance of ob¬ 
taining its magnificent 
foliage. Everyone who 
can spare a place on a 
sunny wall should grow 
Rosa bracteata as posses¬ 
sing the most valuable 
characteristics and as be¬ 
ing one of the most beau¬ 
tiful of all the species. 

[The above note re¬ 
minds us of the great 
beauty of this Rose, as 
seen growing and flower¬ 
ing freely on one of the 
walls in the gardens at 
Bicton some years ago.— 
Ed.] 


Rose Hugo Roller. From a photograph in Messrs. Paul and Son’s nursery at Waltham Cross, N 


as we understand it possesses a fine upright 
habit of growth, and carries its blossoms per¬ 
fectly erect, it bids fair to take a leading 
place. By careful disbudding and thinning 
of the shoots blooms of exhibition standard 
are possible, and we can imagine what a de¬ 
lightful appearance such a flower would have 
in a box of Teas. We have other beautiful 
tinted Roses in Marie Van Iloutte, White 
Maman Cochet, and others, but none with 
such a decided contrast of colours as are pre¬ 
sent in Hugo Roller. The flowers are high- 
centred, fairly large, and possess a sweet Tea 
like perfume. Doubtless many who plant 
Roses in groups desire them of an even shade 
of colour, but the varying tints of such Roses 
ns this are so lovely that, one cannot hut ad¬ 
mire them. although^Uiey would Jjo useless 
for any particular ' 


ugh they would be 

G'O’r-gh 


exposure, it flourishes exceedingly ; whilst it 
is a thorough autumnal, and the flowers have 
a delicious Magnolia-like perfume. 

There are two double-flowered varieties; 
j the old double Macartney, which should be 
avoided as a flowering plant, since the flowers 
i never open, not merely in an unfavourable 
locality or climate, but because of the peculiar 
formation of the petals, which are bent down 
over the top of the bud, eo that their expan¬ 
sion is impossible ; and Marie Leonida, a very 
pretty white Rose, quite double and of fair 
size, with, in the expanded flowers, a distinc¬ 
tive characteristic in the prominence of the 
| bright red anthers above the central petals. 
The origin of this variety does not appear to 
have been recorded, hut it is as perpetual ns 
the species, throwing up fine trusses of bloom 
| throughout the autumn until stopped by frost, 


ROSE MARQUISE DE 
SALISBURY. 

Just now, towards the 
end of August, this is one 
of the showiest Roses in 
the whole collection, and 
it must rank high for 
some time to come as one 
of our best searlet-criin- 
son Roses. It is so free, 
and each flower stands out 
so well that there is never 
the sense of overcrowd¬ 
ing which somewhat 
spoils many Roses. I wish 
this Rose had the scarlet 
more pronounced, instead 
of the bluish hue so ob¬ 
jectionable in the older 
blooms ; but I imagine 
we shall have to wait a 
long time for the perfect 
Rose, for even Mrs. John 
lifting, which someone 
has said is nearly perfec¬ 
tion, has a lilac hue that 
cannot be admired by all. 
Marquise de Salisbury is 
grand oil standards or 
half-standards. This and 
Gruss an Teplitz are, 
perhaps, the two most 
brilliant sorts for effec¬ 
tive display, especially 
for blooming in late 
August. Richmond pro¬ 
mises to be another splen¬ 
did sort, the colour being 
very bright just now, al¬ 
though the flowers are 
very thin. This, however, will, doubtless, 
improve as the plants gain strength and 
become established. E. 

[We saw Richmond in quantity in the early 
days of August in Messrs. Cocker and Son’s 
nurseries, at Aberdeen, and, as seen, the thin¬ 
ness referred to above was absent. It was 
growing alongside Liberty, and the superi¬ 
ority of Richmond in colour, and breadth, 
and firmness of petal, as also vigour, was very 
noticeable. Among other Roses noted at the 
above nurseries as in first-rate form we may 
mention General Jacqueminot still good, 
Her Majesty, Mrs. John Laing, Caroline Tes- 
tout, Mildred Grant. Pharisaer, Gruss an 
Teplitz, The Bride, Frau Karl Druschki (we 
have never seep finer), Le Progres (very rich 
in colour), Catherine Mermet, Mme. Ravary, 
Ulrich ^Brunner, Kaiserin Augusta Victoria, 


IA-CHAMPAI 








3 G 4 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Shi'tkmuer 7 , 1907 


Victor Hugo, La France, A. K. Williams, 
and many others. The much-lauded J. B. 
Clark was very poor, as far as flowering was 
concerned, but the growth was enormous, 
showing that, the best way to grow it is as a 
climber. These are all grown on the seedling 
Brier in a very exposed position on a hill. 
The growth was excellent, and, from the ex¬ 
posure, we should conclude that the wood will 
be well ripened.— Ed.] 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Rose Cruss an Teplitz. This is a fine 
climbing variety, and responds to pegging 
down, grand heads of bloom emerging in late 
autumn, carrying immense clusters of scar¬ 
let-crimson flowers. Few Roses can compare 
with it at that late season. It is a most 
vigorous grower, and stands hard pruning 
into the bargain, which it must have, in our 
case, to keep it within bounds. The shoots 
require to he pegged down in July, or quite 
early in August—not too closely to the 
ground, but horizontally enough to cause the 
said shoots to throw out other growths, 
which, later, will carry grand heads of bloom 
with a delicious scent, a feature that makes 
a Rose doubly valuable; in fact, a Rose 
without a sweet smell lias not any charm for 
me, unless of the Rambler, Polyantha, or 
Wichuraiana type.—J. Mayne, Bicton. 

Rose Mme. Leon Pain. —This Rose has this 
year been particularly good. A Rose remi¬ 
niscent of Mme. Abel Chatenay, it is yet 
very distinct, there being quite an apricot hue 
about its buds and half-open flowers which 
makes a delightful combination blended with 
the lovely rosy-pink and blush-white reflexed 
edges. The form is very good ; the flowers 
are not large, but freely produced. Having 
Caroline Testout as its seed parent, the 
growth may be relied upon for vigour, and 
the pollen parent, Souvenir de Catherine 
Guillot, lias bestowed not only the exquisite 
apricot tint, hut also imparted some of its 
wondrous colouring of foliage which dis¬ 
tinguishes this variety from many of the Tea 
Roses.—W. X. 

Rose La Tosca. The vigour of this Rose 
should ensure it popular favour. It is not a 
climbing Rose, but forms a huge bush some 
4 feet to f> feet high, and nearly as much 
through. It should not be pruned hard, but 
sufficient to keep the plants in a youthful 
condition. La Tosca is wonderfully like 
Viscountess Folkestone in tint, and a near 
approach to Pharisaer, hut the blooms of 
both these are far superior in quality, al¬ 
though neither will send up such sucker-like 
shoots crowned with such great heads of buds 
as La Tosca. The silvery blush Roses are 
lovely. I would not recommend La Tosca to 
anyone wishing for a fine individual Rose, for 
it possesses very littLe form, ami is wonder¬ 
fully thin in blossom scarcely more than 
semi-double—yet it has many admirers.— 
Rosa. 

Rose General Macarthur.— I have been 
much pleased with the behaviour of this Rose 
this season, and it certainly promises to be a 
most useful red Hybrid Tea, and sweetly 
scented. A Rose somewhat brighter in colour 
than General Jacqueminot, it yet possesses 
greater freedom of flowering, especially in the 
autumn. I do not mean to say I should grow 
it in preference to the old favourite named, for 
it does not compare with Jhat sort in quality 
or blossom, but it sends up fine autumnal 
shoots, so useful a feature of the Hybrid 
Tens, which carry splendid clusters of bloom. 
The neatlv-sbaped buds are of a very bright, 
glowing red colour, with just a suspicion of 
purple, but not enough to mar its general ap¬ 
pearance. Until raisers give us belter reds 
this Rose will be valued, for it has a better 
constitution than Liberty, although scarcely 
comparable with that splendid sort in beauty 
• if blossom and richness of colour. If we 
could but get a Rose of the richness of colour 
of Victor Hugo on a plant of the Caroline 
Testout type, what a boon it would he!— 
K 


Index to Volume XXVIII. -The hindins covers 
(price is. fid. each, post frep. Is. !>d.) and Index (.sd., 
post free. Jtjd.) for Volume XXV III. are nowjvndy, 
ami may he had of all ney" 
fisher, post-free, 2#. for Hit" 


II a .\ * iii. me now it-.iuj, 

neyfia^nts. or of thl l‘nh- 

• (bcK gle 


CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

SEASONABLE HINTS. 

From this time onward bud retaining and 
the proper development of the same require 
the closest attention. At this time many late 
crown-buds are developing on plants of the 
Japanese varieties, and these should be re¬ 
tained aa speedily as possible, so that what¬ 
ever time now remains for the ripening may 
be taken full advantage of. In the immediate 
future, even if they have not already shown 
themselves, many of the incurved varieties 
will be developing their buds quite freely. In 
the old days it was the custom to retain buds 
of the type of incurved flowers that then 
found favour during the last few days of 
August and the first week in September^ the 
latter period generally being recognised ns 
the most desirable date at which to retain 
the buds of this type of flower. The race of 
incurved Chrysanthemums that has now be¬ 
come popular possesses many traits that are 
altogether different from those of the old 
Chinese globular flower of the past. On late 
crown buds or on terminal buds this new type 
of the incurved flower opens very kindly, and 
flowers of splendid depth and substance are 
obtained, whereas had they been retained at 
an earlier period the chances are they would 
have been rough in character, uneven in 
build, and more like the Japanese flowers 
than anything else. It is essential that this 
new type of incurved flower be secured from 
late crown buds or early terminal buds. Once 
they are retained every effort should be made 
to keep them moving. On no account must 
the incurved varieties suffer a check. Neglect 
in watering when the weather is hot and dry 
is not seldom seen in a flower of a rough char¬ 
acter. Plants that have not up to the present 
shown a disposition to develop their buds 
should be kept somewhat dry at the roots, but 
not to uuch an extent as to cause them to 
suffer in any way. Keep them what is gener¬ 
ally termed “on the dry side ’’—that is to say. 
just sufficiently moist to supply their abso¬ 
lute needs, and no more. 

The buds of the decorative varieties are 
now developing very satisfactorily, and in 
large numbers, too. Large flowers may be 
had from a crown-bud selection, and these 
may be retained on the plants to the number 
of from six to a dozen. Better results, how¬ 
ever, are to be obtained from a terminal bud 
selection, and for this purpose the plants 
should be grown on to the termination of 
their growth, at which point the terminal 
buds will appear in clusters. The grower 
must determine for himself how many buds of 
this kind he will retain. Should lie desire a 
free display of blossoms in interesting sprays, 
he will let the whole of the buds develop, but 
should he desire a less free display of rather 
larger blossoms, they should be slightly 
thinned out. The best results are to be ob¬ 
tained from plants on which three buds are 
allowed to develop on each shoot, removing 
the superfluous buds in such a way that the 
three buds which are retained Rtand out dis¬ 
tinct the one from the other. In this way 
beautiful sprays of really handsome flowers 
may be had. 

Feeding must bq attended to now. When¬ 
ever water is given, either soot-water or 
manure water should be used, but never so 
strong as to cause the plants to suffer. Weak 
doses, and often, are far better. Take care, 
however, to thoroughly saturate the ball of 
soil so that the roots are able to absorb us 
much of the soluble manure as possible. 
Keep tlie growths tied in an upright position. 
By this means the buds are induced to open 
evenly, and as a consequence the flowers 
assume an even form, which it is not possible 
to get when the growths are left untied, or 
not tied uprightly. This is a small detail, 
hut one of importance where really pretty 
flowers ore desired. 

The attention that was recommended for 
the decorative sorts should also be given to 
the Pompons and singles. The singles are an 
increasingly important type of the flower, and 
never look better than when the clusters of 
buds are partially thinned. Give the plants 
a good open space, so that they may ho 
able to take full advantage of sun and air. 
These are important factors in the healthy 


development of the plant, and special pains 
must be taken to remove the plants from 
under trees or from any position where sun 
and air cannot well play their important part. 

Keep the surface soil free from weeds, and 
remove them immediately they are seen, no 
matter how small. If left undisturbed for a 
week or so, they begin to assume proportions 
that make them harmful to the plants. 

E. G. 


MINIATURE CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 
Where plants of Chrysanthemums in flower 
in small pots are required for filling vases for 
the rooms or for low side stages of the con¬ 
servatory, or even the amateur’s greenhouse, 
no time should be lost in preparing the neces¬ 
sary stock of cuttings if the best results are to 
be obtained. Useful little plants, - each 
measuring from 8 inches to 15 inches high 
and carrying one bloom about 5 inches across, 
may be grown in 3$ inch pots. Chrysanthe¬ 
mums grown in this manner are not seen 
nearly so often as their merits deserve. Little 
trouble is required to have them as described 
if a few simple instructions are carried out 
and the varieties with short peduncles 
selected for the purpose. Some sorts are so 
weak in the peduncles as not to be able to 
support their own flowers in an upright man¬ 
ner. Now is a good time to insert cuttings, 
which should be about 4 inches long, and may 
either be formed of extreme points of the 
main shoots which have been cultivated with 
the idea of producing one large flower to each 
stem, or by growing a sufficient number of 
plants in any spare piece of ground out-of- 
doors for the production solely of cuttings for 
these dwarf plants. It often happens at this 
time of the year where a large collection of 
plants is grown on the large bloom method 
that the tops of some plants become broken 
from heavy rains, winds, or oilier accidents. 
Cuttings formed of these answer well ; but it 
must be borne in mind that none but leading 
growths are of any use ; side shoots will not 
develop a bloom worthy of the little trouble 
incurred. Insert the cuttings singly in pots 
inches in diameter, - removing only the bot¬ 
tom leaf from each cutting ; all other foliage 
should 1)3 preserved, as much of the beauty 
of the plant when growing or in flower is 
lost by having defective foliage. It can be 
easily preserved with careful cultivation in 
the first stages of growth. Plunge the pots 
in a gentle hotbed, shading them from bright 
sun, so that the leaves do not flag at all 
seriously. Syringe the foliage every after¬ 
noon on bright days, and by keeping the 
frame nearly close, roots will be formed in 
about a month, when more air should he 
gradually admitted, increasing the supply 
until the plants will bear full exposure with¬ 
out flagging. Much depends upon how the 
plants are treated in their early stages, 
whether they are dwarf when in flower or 
not. If they are drawn up weakly by over¬ 
crowding or insufficiency of air, the growth is 
weakened, the leaves are small, and the 
blooms correspondingly small also. When 
the plants will bear full exposure, remove 
them from the frame to a shelf in the green¬ 
house close to the glass where they will have 
light, air, and space. As soon as the pots 
are full of roots, transfer the plants to 
3^-inch. or even 41 inch, pots, if large blooms 
are wished for and the varieties be naturally 
large. To the soil add a small portion of dis¬ 
solved hones or any artificial manure which 
is recommended, choosing that which acts 
quickly, as the time for the plants to grow 
and flower is short. When the pots are well 
filled with roots, occasional waterings of some 
stimulant to assist in developing the blooms 
should be given. The blooms should be re¬ 
stricted to one on each stem, removing all 
other buds and side growths as fast as they 
appear. Mildew often attacks the leaves of 
these plants when they arc kept close in the 
frame during the time roots are being formed, 
and spoils the appearance of the plants if 
allowed to spread unchecked. Abundance of 
light, air, and water is all that is needed from 
the last stage of growth until the flowers are 
expanded. When the foundation has l*»en 
well laid- that is, stout cuttings carefully 
struck, well watered* and kept clean —it is 
surprising what large, deeply formed blooms 
will be developed upon these little plants. 



September 7, 1007 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


305 



TREES AND SHRUBS. 

HET.ICHRYSUM ROSMARINIFOLIUM 
(SYX. OZOTHAMNUS ROSMARINI- 
FOLIUS). 

Though not so well known as its relative, 
the New Zealand Olearia Haasti, and scarcely 
so "showy when in bloom, this Australian 


favourable conditions. Where it can be 
grown in the open air it is certainly a useful 
and ornamental plant. The sprays make a 
very natural white wreath, and if the 
brandies are cul just when tlie bloom is at 
perfection, put away in large, air-tight paper 
bags, and suspended in a dry room, they will 
be as white at the Christmas following as 
when cut. They are also useful for winter 


pots of light sandy Boil pressed down firmly. 
After all is finished and a good watering 
given, the cuttings must be placed in a close 
frame and kept well shaded from sunshine till 
rooted. 


llelichrvauni rosiparinifolium in Mr. Chambers’ garden njt Ilaslemere, Surrey. 


composite is a valuable flowering shrub, and 
one that lasts a long time in bloom. It forms 
a dense twiggy bush with narrow leaves a 
good deal resembling those of Rosemary, and 
has small white Aster-like blossoms, borne in 
such profusion, that the whole plant is, when 
in bloom, quite a mass of white. It is fairly \ 
hardy in this country, and does pretty well 
even in hot and sandy soil 
seen to the [greatest advj 


>iL»flnit, of course! is 
IvLitaH^^dt 


decoration in the house, if mixed with dried 
(grasses or the plumes of the Pampas Grass. 
It blooms about July, and though it does not 
ripen seed hero, it can be propagated readily 
enough from cuttings taken during the sum¬ 
mer months just as the current season’s 
shoots acquire somewhat of a woody texture. 
The cuttings must be made entirely of the 
young shoots and the leaves at the base hav¬ 
ing been removed, they should be dibbled into 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 
Treatment of Guelder Rose.—I have two 
Btandard trees of Guelder Ruse, which were in flower 
last September. They have been in 
the greenhouse ever since. When 
should they be put out, and what 
aspect do they prefer? Will they 
need pruning and uny special soil? - 
K. P. E. 

[The Guelder Rose is per¬ 
fectly hardy, and the probability 
is that as yours have been kept, 
in the greenhouse up till now 
they will be in a very weak 
state, and not likely to flower 
much next spring. We should 
advise you to plant them out at 
once in a south or west aspect, 
and not prune them in any way. 
Then, next spring, if there are 
no flower-buds, cut them back 
to good eyes, and if they do 
flower, pruning should be 
carried out directly the blossoms 
are past.] 

Blue Hydrangeas.-1 would be 
glad to know whether crystals of pro- 
tosulphate of iron, as used in photo¬ 
graphy for developing, would be right 
for turning Hydrangeas blue? And, if 
so, what strength of iron ran be used, 
as a photographer at Hamburg, 
where blue Hydrangeas are a specialty 
of the place, once told the writer 
that he watered his Hydrangeas with 
old developer?—L. R. 

[We have no experience of the 
particular material to which you 
refer, and would suggest that 
you experiment with a plant or 
two.. In some instances the ordi¬ 
nary sulphate of iron does not 
give the desired results.] 

Pruning white Jasmir.e. — I 

have a large white Jasmine creeping 
well over a wall round my garden, 
facing west. It is now overgrown and * 
full of young shoots and branches. 
Shall 1 prune stem well back the end 
of September or train to the wall 
again? They look so untidy, and I 
am quite a novice, and do not wish to 
spoil the tree.—D oris. 

[You may remove much of the 
old wood of the Jessamine in 
September, or later, and train 
in the younger branches to fill 
up the gaps. It were better 
that such pruning be done 
periodically—say, each year—to 
])revent the overcrowding so fre¬ 
quently seen.] 

Transplanting evergreen- 
trees. —My opinion is that the 
best season for moving ever¬ 
greens depends somewhat on 
their size, age, and the distance 
to which they have to be moved, 
but, os a rule, I am in favour of 
autumn planting. From the 
first week in August to the 
second in October is a much 
longer time during which ever¬ 
greens of all kinds can be safely 
moved than that available in 
spring, with the still further ad¬ 
vantage that the autumn-moved 
plants require no after attention 
in watering the following sum¬ 
mer, such as is necessary in dry 
weather with spring - moved 
plants, even if they get well 
over the ordeal of transplanting. 
When plants moved in spring in 
any considerable quantities have 
to be taken any distance by rail 
in the hot, dry weather that often 
prevails at that time, frequently necessitating 
their being out of the ground for a week, they 
seldom come off without a check that throws 
them into a stunted state which takes two or 
three years to get out of. With small, ordi¬ 
nary nursery stock, when in a right state for 
removal by sufficiently frequent transplant¬ 
ing, where the quantities to be got through 
are not too great to admit: of their removal 
within the short time available, spring will 











366 


GARMIMM'G ILL USTRATED* 


&ErtKMBER 7, 1007 


answer well enough ; but even these will do 
just as well if moved within the much longer 
period in autumn, admitting of their making 
some roots after planting, when they are safe 
from any weather, no matter how severe. It 
is all very well to recommend the planting of 
Hollies and other evergreens just as they are 
breaking into growth in spring where only 
a limited number of small or ordinary-sized 
plants has to be moved; but where large 
quantities have to be transplanted, and often 
conveyed considerable distances, it is impos¬ 
sible to get the work done in the time during 
which the plants are in the required state to 
move. For one evergreen that dies after re¬ 
moval before November there are twenty 
that go ofT or are rendered useless by removal 
in spring.—T. 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 


ANNUALS AT READING. 
Nothing, perhaps, could afford the gardener 
—be he amateur or professional—so much 
pleasure during the early summer-time as a 
visit to the seed trial flower farms of the 
Messrs. Sutton and Sons, Reading, where 
many acres are devoted to the testing of the 
almost endless array of flowering plants that 
are to be found grouped as hardy or half- 
hardy annuals. This year the Messrs. Sutton 
have accorded the Sweet Pea considerable 
prominence, and a plot of land some acres 
in extent is devoted to it. Of the Sweet Pea 
alone the trial embraces upwards of 450 varie¬ 
ties, or, at least, names, while the rows, if 
planted in an extended line would reach to 
miles. It is, perhaps, one of the most com¬ 
plete and exhaustive trials of the flower ever 
got together, and is rendered necessary by 
the continued influx of novelties. What is 
true and necessary in a single item is true of 
the whole, and some sixty acres are devoted 
to flower and vegetable seed tests. At Read¬ 
ing the test is a severe one indeed, and travel¬ 
lers by the Great Western Railway who see 
the rich colour displays in passing the 
grounds would be not a little surprised could 
they realise the exceeding stony nature of the 
soil and its poor quality generally. There is 
considerable consolation in this, however, 
and visitors who see these fine colour masses 
need have no fear as to the result when the 
same things are grown in richer ground or 
deeper soil. 

As regards the Sweet Pea trials, the varie¬ 
ties of one colour from all sources are 
arranged in short, convenient rows, side by 
side, and in this way the merits of each, its 
trueness to stock ami other items of import¬ 
ance, are quickly apparent. In this wav we 
see every shade in scarlet, pink, cream, blue, 
white, and so forth, while valuable informa¬ 
tion is forthcoming in not a few instances 
where a certain variety may exist under 
several names. There is nothing, perhaps, 
more disappointing to the amateur than this 
duplicate naming, ami minimising the possi¬ 
bility of such happening is, doubtless, oT the 
utmost value to the public. The display, as 
seen in the heyday of its beauty, was exceed¬ 
ingly beautiful, the endless varieties well-nigh 
bewildering. Quite one of the most charm¬ 
ing of Messrs. Button’s novelties for this sea¬ 
son is Our Queen, a flower of the true Spencer 
type, coloured pale pink on a cream ground. 
Of pure white varieties we selected the giant- 
flowered White and Nora Unwin, the latter the 
Countess Spencer form of Dorothy Eckford. 
We regard these two as the highest type of 
perfection in white varieties, free flowering, 
strong in spike, and vigorous withal. The 
pink-flowered kinds are not only pleasing to 
the eye, but immensely popular with all 
classes, and in Queen of Pinks we have a 
refined beauty that is a great charm. Bolton’s 
Pink, Orange Prince, Miss Willmott. Princess 
Beatrice, Henry Eckford, nrc all valuable 
kinds of deeper shades of pink, or bordering 
on orange in some instances. In the more 
delicate blush-pink varieties, Countess Spen 
cer. Countess of Aberdeen. Gladys Unwin, 
Mrs. Alfred Watkins, and Dainty, are excel 
lent. In cream or yellow Mrs. Collier, Prim 
rose Queen, and Golden Gleam arc a good 
set. The deep recL-and scarlet glades are a 


rather Btrong 


tip red^nd scarlet idi 
g 


^Brilliant 


Scarlet, King Edward, John Ingman, Helen 
Lewis, and Her Majesty stand out conspicu¬ 
ous. In viewing the John Ingman group, or, 
rather, the colours or varieties near to it, 
evidence was afforded of the desire to reduce 
the endless list of names, and such as George 
Herbert, E. J. Castle, Rosy Morn, Rosie 
Sydenham, and others, if not absolutely 
identical with it, are certainly too near to 
bear distinctive names, and are not wanted in 
the same garden. In pale blue and kindred 
shades we take Flora Norton, Mrs. G. Hig- 
ginson, jun., a delicate shade of French-grey, 
Emily Eckford, Lady Grisel Hamilton, Coun¬ 
tess of Radnor, and Mrs. Walter Wright, as 
the best; while in those of deeper blue. Cap¬ 
tain of the Blues and Navy Blue are excellent. 
Butterfly is a pure white-flowered variety, 
having a border or edge of lavender-blue, 
while Brilliant Blue is rich and deep in 
colour, and of the finest form. At the pre¬ 
sent lirne there would appear a tendency 
among the raisers of new varieties of the 
Sweet Pea to work upon the Countess Spen¬ 
cer type of flower, which has waved or un¬ 
dulated standards, and there is every reason 
to believe that before many years this type 
of flower will he found in all the leading 
shades of colour. Personally, we have a 
strong attachment to the plain," oval standard. 
We believe, moreover, that there is room 
enough in our gardens for both types. In 
certain directions, too. there is an open field 
for the hybridist, and the scarlet flowered kind 
that will not burn in strong 6unlight lias yet 
to be raised or introduced. Borne varieties 
ns, c.g ., Scarlet Gem, burn very badly. Then, 
again, there is, as yet no good yellow-flowered 
variety of Sweet Pea, and the raiser of a good 
canary-yellow-flowered kind will not nave 
lived in vain. At present, the so-called “yel¬ 
lows” resolve themselves into buff-cream, or 
the ^alest of pale primrose, and a few more 
decades will, probably, elapse before a clear 
yellow is seen. Quite of an instructive char¬ 
acter was the trial of assorted colour mix¬ 
tures, a certain proportion of seeds of certain 
colours only being used. In this way salmon- 
pink and scarlet, cream and maroon," rose and 
pale blue, pink-yellow and salmon, and the 
red, white, and blue were seen growing to¬ 
gether. These are definite mixtures of the 
firm’s colour-strain, and, therefore, represent 
the best types of their respective colours. It 
is most helpful to those who prefer mixtures 
for cutting from and for decoration. . 

In other directions gay masses of colour 
were seen on every hand. It may be the rich 
blue of Nemophila insign is or Phacelia eam- 
pauularia or the dazzling Nasturtium in 
richest scarlet, or yellow' or kindred shade, or 
the more brilliant Linum grandiflorum rubrum 
with a grace and beauty all its own. The 
rich and varied display of Godetias alone was 
worth going to see, and rarely have the varie¬ 
ties appeared in such perfection. Dwnrf and 
tall kinds in crimson, scarlet, rose, white, 
and other shades of colour are of the highest 
value in the flower garden, juid flower long 
and profusely. Some of the double-flowered 
rose and pink varieties are very beautiful in 
the cut state. The Stocks formed another 
unique item, and the fine hushes of these 
popular and fragrant flowering plants, 
crowded with handsome spikes of blossoms, 
certainly gave one the impression that the 
poor, stony soil in which the plants were 
growing was better suited to them than the 
richer garden soils. Very effective, too, were 
the varied strains of the Snapdragon and the 
annual Chrysanthemums, of which latter the 
forms of C. carinatum and the much-improved 
varieties of C. segetum, as, c.g.. Morning Star 
and Evening Star, and an improved variety 
of the first-named call for special mention. 
Asters, naturally, w-ere in strong force, and 
a large quarter of seedling Carnations should, 
by the great size of the plants and the high 
percentage of double flowers, afford the most 
conclusive proof of their decorative value for 
the garden. These seedling Carnations were 
simply sheaves of blossoms and buds, and, as 
such, capable of maintaining a display for 
weeks in succession. When it is remembered 
that a single packet of seeds will produce 
several dozens of plants, it is the more re¬ 
markable that such things do not receive 
greater attention from the amateur than is 
now apparent.. E. H. J. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Treatment of Violets —In April last I planted 
rooted cuttings (taken Inst September) of Czar and 
La France, and these by June were large plants, but 
in July I noticed a large number of imperfect flowers 
springing from the axils of leaves on runners 
(although these were pinched back), the flower-stems 
lying on the ground, and in many cases seed-pod* 
with seeds in them hud developed, even under the soil. 
Even seedlings sown in March, and now large 
plants, are sending out long runners, and from these 
1 notice flower-buds. Please let me know if the 
plants should be cut back to a single crown to pre¬ 
vent flower-buds forming? I And it most difficult 
with strong plants to confine them to a single 
crown, as their runners seem to spring from the root 
and run underground. Is this production of imma¬ 
ture and imperfect flowers due to using cuttings 
rooted in autumn, and would it he better to use 
divisions of the old plant in April? As I have about 
250 plants, it is almost impossible to keep flower- 
buds picked oil until autumn, and 1 feel sure there 
is something wrong in my method of growing.—D ale 
Croft. 

[It is not at all necessary to reduce the 
plants to a single crown ; indeed, a solitary 
runner crown employed as a culling will fre¬ 
quently produce many crowns before the plant 
is six months old. it is important, however, 
to remove the runners that are formed, and 
which, extending beyond the leaf area of the 
plant, will materially rob the central crown 
tuft. It is by concentrating all the possible 
energies of the plant on the central tuft that 
a good flow-ering can he usually depended 
upon during the winter months. September- 
rooted cuttings, if planted out in good 
ground in April, require little beyond the 
keeping of the ground free from weeds and 
the suppression of the runners as these are 
produced. The runners may be nipped off by 
hand—that is, with finger and thumb, or by 
using a pair of scissors. Any intelligent lad 
could do this, if showm. "Where the plants 
are kept freely growing the flower-buds do 
not usually appear unduly early, but, in your 
case, this would appear to be so. Ill such a 
ease the early buds would be better removed. 
You cannot employ anything so suitable as 
cuttings, and divided plants are, of all things, 
calculated to be more troublesome in runner 
production. If this early development of the 
plant is usual in your locality, you may escape 
this seemingly troublesome early-flower pro¬ 
duction hv deferring the rooting of the cut¬ 
tings. Try rooting or inserting the cuttings 
in December another year. We know quite 
well that the double Comte de Brazza, The 
Czar, and others are capable of these early 
flower displays, if too early propagated, and 
should advise a later date for propagation in 
future. The small, unflowered crown of the 
runner is much the best to employ, and if, in 
your case, the flowers are not valued during 
September or October, your only remedy is in 
a later propagation. The fact that you em¬ 
ployed cuttings at all has nothing whatever 
to do with the imperfect flowers to which you 
refer.] 

Plants in wood.—Would you kindly tell me 
what plants would grow, on poorish soil, in a 
sheltered position, in a wood? There is plenty of 
light and air, though it is a spot very much shaded 
from the south. Bulbs, Foxgloves, and Poppies 
would, I suppose, do well, but 1 would also like some 
bigger things. Would Orange Lilies or Martagon 
Lilies do in the shade in poorish soil? I would like 
to have also tall, effective flowering plants or shrubs. 
—MlTRIKL. 

[What you may really plant with the possi¬ 
bility of success' depends not. a little on the 
position and the way in which the planting 
is done. We may say, however, that we have 
grown the shrubby Spiraeas, Deutzias. Mock 
Orange, Weigolas, Rhododendrons, Ribes. 
and other things quite well in a wood of an 
extensive character by grouping them here 
and there, and affording a little more light 
or better soil if occasion necessitated. In 
just the same way you might make a splendid 
home for such Lilies as: pardalinuin, 6 feet 
to 7 feet high ; auratum platyphvllum. gigaji- 
teum, 6 feet to 10 feet high at flowering-time ; 
eandidum, testaceum. Browni leucanthuni, 
eroceum, the many forms of unibellatum. 
Mart agon, and others. Some of the Bam¬ 
boos, the large and ornamental forms of Rhu¬ 
barb. Polygonum Baldsrhitanicum, for ram¬ 
bling among the Hazels or similar things, 
growing cn a rustic pole or ascending a dead 
Fir tree, would he most valuable. For spring 
flow’ering, plant freelv of tlu* Crown Im¬ 
perials in Yellow ami bronze, the taller I)af 
fodilfr. os Sir Watkin, and other incompara 
[hilis kinds. Fnxglovrs, Evening Primrose, 



September 7, 1907 


QAtibJiJrimi ILL USTLatLD. 


3d7 



Lythrum Saliearla roseum, Epilobium hirau- 
tum, and Honesty are other things that are 
very showy and beautiful in their way, and do 
much to preserve a succession of bloom. The 
common Gorse is ulso valuable in such 
places.] 

Tufted Pansies dving.—I should be much 
obliged if you would tell me how it is so many of 
my Tufted Pansies have this year died off? They 
turn brown, and then when pulled up arc found with¬ 
out root. Is it the wireworm, and, if so, how can 
I get rid of it? In the places where Tufted Pansies 
have not been planted before they have done well. 
Is it, therefore, a good plan to change the places 
each year? Can I do anything this autumn to rid 
the soil of the wireworm?— Mrs. Barran. 

[In many instances the plants fall a prey to 
wireworm, while in other instances it is the 


digging this in early in the spring. The free 
use of soot may be made to ansAver the same 
purpose, this being sufficient, in many in¬ 
stances, to eradicate the evil. Any ground in 
which Pansies have been growing for two or 
three seasons seems to get what is known as 
“ Pansy-sick,” the plants dying off one after 
the other in the beds without there being the 
faintest trace of an attack of any insect. 
Those who grow Tufted Pansies on a large 
scale invariably change the position of the 
plants each year. Your Lilium candidum, 
judging from what you say, lias evidently 
fallen a" prey to the disease which has, in re¬ 
cent years, caused the loss of so many 
flourishing groups throughout the country.] 


very lightly with the soil. It frequently hap¬ 
pens when the seeds are a year old, or rather 
more, that they lie dormant for a whole year 
after sowing. A good plan to follow with 
many perennials ripening their seeds in late 
summer is to sow them either as soon as ripe 
or during the ensuing winter. In such cir¬ 
cumstances, the seedlings may be expected to 
appear in the spring ensuing. The question 
of dividing the seedlings depends entirely 
upon the individual progress of the plants, 
and of this you must be the better judge. It 
would be unwise to attempt to divide the 
seedlings liefore they had flowered a second 
time, and not always in the second year is it 
possible to speak of the merits or otherwise 
of any plant. Equally unwise would it be to 
increase any one of the seedlings by gasoil 
of its free growth, as not infrequently the 
better kinds are the slowest in reaching the 
mature flowering stage. March and April are 
the best months for dividing and replanting 
such things.] 


Iris bucharica in a Surrey garden. 


result of the depredations of the leather- 
jacket grub. Either one of these evils is bad 
enough in itself, but tho two in combination 
may cause immense mischief. The plants, 
from your description, appear to be affected 
by both the wireworm and the leather-jacket 
grub. The soil should be turned over and left 
in a rough condition during the winter, as by 
these means the frost should get well into the 
soil and thoroughly pulverise it. Any insects 
in the soil would then have little chance of 
surviving such treatment. If the garden is 
much infested with these pests, still more 
drastic measures a/enccessarv^^ji layer of 
gas-liine may be s| ^ai| t,reJsp^_in the 
autumn and left thus fnrougho^tjme winter. 


Difficulties with Heucheras.-Last year seeds 
of all varieties of Heucheras. sown in pans in June 
and put in cold frame, germinated freely. This year, 
under exactly the same conditions, seeds from same 
\rm have not germinated at all. Will you kindly 
i< t rrc know if Heucheras require more heat than we 
have been favoured with this year or do they re¬ 
quire any special soil or treatment? I notice one 
t-erman firm advises Heucheras to be sown in autumn, 
which rather tends to prove they want cool treat¬ 
ment. Please also let me know if last year’s plants 
can he divided, and when this should be done to en¬ 
sure a strong flowering next year?— Dale C'ropt. 

[The seeds of these plants, if of good quality, 
vegetate quite freely under cold-frame treat¬ 
ment, and artificial heat is not to be recom¬ 
mended. Any soil of a very sandy nature will 
do quite well, and the seeds should be covered 


IRIS BUCHARICA. 

The Iris which is represented in the illustra¬ 
tion to-day is certainly one of the most charm¬ 
ing of a very delightful and, for the most part, 
easily-grown set. Though but recently intro¬ 
duced, it was, I believe, one of the best novel¬ 
ties of the early part of 1902, when it received 
a first-class certificate from the floral com¬ 
mittee of the Royal Horticultural Society— 
its popularity was assured from the very first, 
nor are there any signs of such popularity 
waning. A member of the Juno section of the 
great Iris family, I. bucharica has for its com¬ 
panions the equally beautiful and well known 
I. orchioides, from which it differs chiefly in 
its nearly sessile flowers, which are also of a 
lighter tone of colour. Indeed, and for 
general purposes I. orchioides may be re¬ 
garded as the typical form of the set with 
which we are more concerned to-day. 

Iris bucharica was first introduced into 
cultivation by Messrs. C. G. Van Tubergen, 
of Haarlem. Of the general character of the 
plant the illustration affords ample proof. Of 
erect habit of growth, attaining to a foot or 
15 inches in height, amply furnished with its 
rich, lustrous-green arching and slightly un¬ 
dulated leaves, the blossoms are freely pro- 
duesd in the axils of the leaves, and in strong 
specimens a succession of the flowers is kept 
up for some time. The predominant colours 
are the pure white of the upper portion of the 
flower and the rich golden-yellow colour of the 
falls and crest, a few dark purple lines 
spreading therefrom. The species comes 
from Eastern Bokhara, whero it is found on 
mountain slopes at 5,000 feet or 6,000 feet 
altitude. 

I. orchioides, probably the best, or, at 
least, one of the most satisfactory, of tho set, 
differs but slightly from the above. Its yel¬ 
low-coloured blossoms are highly ornamental. 
The flowers are more stalked than in I. 
bucharica, and rich yellow in colour, a bright 
orange-coloured ridge appearing on the blade 
of the falls. I. o. coerula has pale blue or 
lavender-coloured flowers, with a similar tone 
about tho falls. Both forms are found in 
Bokhara and in Western Turkestan. 

I. Warleyensis.— A very beautiful addi¬ 
tion to the group, and for which all lovers of 
Irises arc indebted to Messrs. Van Tubergen, 
who introduced the plant in 1901. The pre¬ 
sent.plant most nearly resembles I. orchioides 
coerulea in general habit and flowering. In 
the colouring of the flowers, howtrver, it is 
distinct from all. The predominant colour 
shade is either pah violet or deep violet to 
purple, relieved by the orange colour in the 
front of the crest. Native of Eastern Bok¬ 
hara, in the same district as I. bucharica. 
Other species of note belonging to this group 
include I. Willmottiana, with lavender or pale 
purple-coloured blossoms; I. caucasica, I. 
Tubergeniana, etc. These are of a dwarfer 
growth, and. from a garden point of view, 
decidedly less ornamental. 

All the species are quite hardy, and succeed 
well in very sandy loam and leaf-mould in a 
perfectly-drained position. A chief require¬ 
ment of the group Iff’an abundance of root 
moisture throughout the growing season. 
Where a warm, Avcll-drained border exists, 
this will suit the plants admirably. In dis- 








30.8 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED, 


SuPTE.MnKR 7, 1907 


I ricts where heavy .clay soils obtain, a special 
soil mixture should be afforded these plants, 
and in such the addition of old mortar will be 
found beneficial. In the rock garden or the 
alpine-house the varieties first named will 
always afford a special attraction. When 
grown for the latter purpose, it will be found 
best if the bulbs are planted in the early 
autumn and plunged in ashes or Cocoa-nut- 
fibre refuse till growth has commenced, when 
the pans or pots may be removed to the cold- 
house or frame. The flowering period is 
March April. E. H. Jenkins. 


GARDEN PESTS AND FRIENDS. 


Injury to Willow leaves. -Can you kindly tell 
me in your columns what the enclosed caterpillars, 
found feeding upon Willows, are?—W. G. G. 

[The leaves of your Willows are injured by 
the grubs of a small, but well-known, beetle. 
I am away from home, and, unfortunately, 
cannot remember its name, but I will let you 
know, with full particulars, next week.— 
G. S. S.] 

Grubs at roots of Apple-tree —Kindly name the 
two grubs enclosed? '1 hey were found at the base 
of an old Apple-tree, which died about live years ago, 
and which was being grubbed up. Were these grubs 
the cause of the tree dying?—R eading. 

[The large, fat grub is that of the com¬ 
mon cockchafer (Melolontha vulgaris). The 
long, narrow one is one of the wirewornis, the 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 


Fungus on Rose leaves — 1 enclose a leaf of one 
of my Hoses, covered with thin disease, which in a 
very short time seems to kill the whole plant. 
Would you kindly tell me what I can do to prevent 
it spreading? The Roses grow in a border by them¬ 
selves, with Mignonette. The soil is very sandy, and 
has to be entirely made up to grow anything. We 
are close to the sea, and get a great deal of wind.— 
K M. B. 

[Your Roses are attacked by the Rose-rust 
fungus (Pragmidium subcorticum). Collect 
and burn all the fallen leaves, and before the 
buds show any signs of opening next spring, 
thoroughly drench the plants and spray the 
surrounding soil with 2 oz. of sulphate of 
copper dissolved in three gallons of water. 
If the disease makes its appearance next 
year, at once spray with dilute Bordeaux mix¬ 
ture or an ammoniated carbonate of copper 
solution. See reply to “L. II. G.”] 


Rose foliage unhealthy — I enclose some leaves 
oil my Rose-trees, and would he much obliged if you 
could tell me what is the disease they are affected with, 
and if there is any cure for same? Every June, just 
ns the trees are coming into bloom, these brown 
spots appear on the leaves, which gradually turn 
yellow and fall off, some trees losing all their leaves, 
others only a few. The new leaves which appear 
wit It the second bloom of Roses are never so badly 
affected. The Roses are planted in rather heavy 
soil, and get a good mulching in June to keep their 
roots damp. Some are on a wall, some in beds In 
the Glass.—h. H. G. 

[The leaves of your Roses are attacked by 
a fungus, the Rose-leaf blotch fungus (Actino- 
ncma rosse). Burn the infested leaves—those 
which have fallen a.s well as those on the bush 
—-and spray with dilute Bordeaux mixture, or 
with the following mixture:—Add half a pint 
of strong liquid ammonia to two quarts of 
water (avoid the forms which are very pun¬ 
gent. ns much as you can), take 1 oz. of car¬ 
bonate of copper, and make it into a paste 
with a little hot water, and dissolve it in the 
ammonia and water. Let it stand for some 
hours, occasionally stirring it.. Then pour off 
all the clear blue liquid, and add twelve gal¬ 
lons of water. Spray next season with one 
of the above preparations as soon as the 
disease shows itself. If the leaves are very 
young, the fungicides should not be used of 
full strength. Spray every ton or twelve days 
while there are any signs of the fungus.— 
G. S. S.] 

Fungus on Violet leaves. Will you kindly tell 
'!•<“, through the medium of your paper, with what 
disease the Violet-leaves 1 send you are attacked; 
also, what I should do to prevent or check it?- 
VlOLBP. 

[The Violet-leaves are badly attacked by 
the Violet smut fungus (Urocystis violas). It 
is almost impossible (if not quite) to effectu¬ 
ally apply any fungicide. I should pull up 
and burn any affected plants, and not plant 
Violets again in the same soil for at, least a 
year.—G. S. S.] 

Grub attacking Logan berries — I enclose 
specimens of grub on a Logan-berry-tree. The tree 
has been planted four years, and has never been 
attacked before. It lias lots of fruit on. but they dry 
up on account of the insect getting near the stem in 
the fruit. I might mention that grubs get into the 
fruit and do not touch the leaves or branches. I 
should be very much obliged if you would tell me 
how I can prevent the tree being attacked next 
year?—H. E. W. 

[The grub attacking your Logan berries is 
that of the Raspberry-beetle (Bvtumus tomen- 
tosus), a common pest of Raspberries. Burn 
all primings, old canes, and any dead leaves, 
etc., which may have collected at the base of 
the canes, and when the crop is over remove 
the surface soil to the depth of 3 inches, and 
cither burn nr burv it deeply (not less than 
a foot), for the grubs will Become chrysalids 
under the rubbish ainonif tbe^eanes or. in tbe 
il near ihetii. -*C. 8. £\] 'll ) 


grub of one of the click or skipjack beetles, 
belonging to the family Elatoridae", the grubs 
of most of the members of which live in de¬ 
caying wood, instead of on the roots of plants. 
I do not imagine that either was the cause of 
the decay of the tree. Both are King-lived, 
as grubs go, not coming to maturity lor two 
or three years, but they would not attack 
living trees. The grubs had gnawed your 
letter to pieces, but, fortunately, the essential 
parts were decipherable.—G. S. S.] 
Asparagus-beetle (E. J. PhilpotL —Your 
Asparagus plants are attacked by the grubs 
of the Asparagus-beetle (Crioceris asparagi), 
a very common pest on this plant. We should 
at once spray the plants with one of (he fol¬ 
lowing mixtures:—l lb. of soft-soap dissolved 
in one pint of boiling water, to which add 
1 oz. of Paris-green and twice its bulk of lime. 
Stir well together, and add fifteen gallons of 
water, and while using keep it. stirred, as the 
Paris-green is very heavy, and will otherwise 
sink to the bottom. Or you might use the 
extract from 1 lb. of Quassia chips, 10 oz. of 
soft soap well mixed in ten gallons of soft 
water; or paraffin emulsion properly diluted. 
The beetles are about ^ inch long, with bluish- 
black heads, red, prominent eves, and fore- 
hodv of a brownish-red colour. The wing- 
cases are yellowish, with a dark central stripe 
where they join, with three dark spots on 
either side, and they may be found when the 
Asparagus is just fit to cut,, and then on all 
through the summer. The early ones should 
be destroyed, if possible, as there arc several 
broods in the year. Later on, when the 
Grass is grown up, they may be shaken from 
it into an open umbrella. 

Mulberry tree infested with ants —I have a 
Mulberry-tree in my garden, which had a heavy crop 
of fruit, on lH»t year. This was all damaged by 
ants, so that none of the fruit could he used. 1 
have a good lot. of fruit this year, and the ants have 
attacked it again. 1 would be glad if you could tell 
me, through your valuable gardening paper, if there 
is anything I can do to the stem, in the way of a 
dressing, to stop them? Would tar hurt the tree?— 
W. II. 

[If you can find the nests of the ants which 
attack your Mulberries, open them with a 
spade when the ants have retired for the 
night, and soak them with boiling Water. Or 
you might stop them from ascending the tree 
by tying a sticky band round the tree in such 
a manner that the ants cannot crawl under¬ 
neath. This is not easily done in the case of 
a tree with rough bark. It will not do to 
paint the sticky material on to the bark, as 
the tree may be injured by doing so. A band 
of 3 inches, or tieTs, say, 1 foot G inches 
wide, might be put/round the stem and sunk 
3 inches or so into the ground, and this should 
be coated with cart-grease, tar, or anything 
sticky. If you decide to tic on a band, take a 
strip of grease-proof paper about 2 inches 
wide and lay on it a sheet of strong paper 
coated with cart-grease or other sticky sub¬ 
stance ; then fasten them tightly round the 
stem, the grease-proof paper being next the 
tree, with two strings (top and bottom). See 
that ends of this band overlap. Examine the 
band from time to time, to make sure it re¬ 
mains sticky.—G. S. S.] 

The death’s-head moth (M. Lane ).—'The 
insect, that you dug up in your garden is 
the caterpillar of l lie death’s-head moth 
(Acherontia atropos). These caterpillars, 
which are not uncommon, but never abun¬ 
dant, are usually found feeding qn the leaves 
of the Potato, blit, they also feed on the Jessa¬ 
mine and Nightshade. The moth is, prob¬ 
ably, our largest insect. The name death’s 
head moth has been given it on account, of a 
marking on the body just between the wings 
which much resembles a skull. The wings 


of the moth measure from 4 inches to 5 inches 
from tip to tip when they are fully extended, 
and the head and body measure quite 2 inches 
in length. The fore-wings are of a dark brown 
colour with tawny markings, the hind wings 
yellow with two dark bands, the front part of 
the body dark browm with a yellow ekull- 
shaped mark on it, the rest of the body yellow, 
banded with black. When fully grown, the 
caterpillar buries itself in the ground and 
becomes a chrysalis, in w’hich condition it 
remains all the winter. 

Insects on Pear tree (G. n. />.). — Your Pear- 

leaves are attacked by the “ Pear leaf blister mite " 
(Eriophis piri). Pick off and burn as many of the 
infested leaves as you can, then spray the trees with 
a solution of paraffin emulsion. Next season, as soon 
as the buds begin to swell, but before they open, 
spray again, and another syringing should be given at 
the end of May.-G. S. S. 


ROOM AND WINDOW. 

HINTS ON TABLE DECORATION FOR 
COMPETITION. 

(Reply to “Amateur,” p. 338.) 

When going round the classes for table de¬ 
corations at shows, one frequently hears the 
remark made, “I should have liked to show r 
also, had I known how to go about it.” It is 
for these would-be exhibitors that these hints 
are intended, in the hope that they may be 
of some assistance. 

The first thing to do after making up one’s 
mind to compete is to carefully study the 
rules laid down in the schedule—note the 
space allotted, and carefully mark the same 
out on any table at hand, arranging the 
vases, etc., thereon, in the design chosen. 
The flowers used in this preliminary arrange¬ 
ment are of no importance ; even sprigs of 
evergreens may do duty, so long as an idea 
can be gained, in the mind's eye, of the 
grouping and general effect. This will be 
lound a great help, and will also assist in 
judging the amount of flowers and foliage re¬ 
quired, if these are to be purchased. Every¬ 
thing required should be put ready before¬ 
hand, and a tablecloth should always be 
taken, unless it. is specially mentioned in the 
schedule that this will be provided ; also a 
serviceable pair of secateurs (not scissors), 
as these cut wire as well as stalks. They 
should be fastened round the waist b}' a 
string or chain, having an aggravating knack 
of hiding themselves among the flowers. A 
few long and fairly stiff wires, to lengthen 
the centre stalks, if needful, or mend a broken 
one, should never be forgotten ; also a reel 
of bouquet wire, a small jug to fill the vases 
(the long-spouted water-cans usually provided 
at shows not being an ideal means for this 
purpose), and a cloth to wipe up any spilt 
water, etc. In case of a bowl being used as 
a centrepiece, a floral aid or glass disc, to 
assist in mounting same, must not be for¬ 
gotten, and a small handful of fresh Moss 
will also be found most useful ; a little bit 
tucked into a vase will often hold up a re¬ 
fractory bloom in a most satisfactory man¬ 
ner. Arrive at the show in good time; 
nothing is more disconcerting to a novice 
than being hurried. 

With regard to the flowers used, and the 
style of decorations chosen, no hard-and-fast 
rules can be laid down. Tastes differ so 
much—those of the judges as much as of the 
exhibitors. It is best to be guided by cir¬ 
cumstances, and act accordingly. ‘ Too 
crowded a style is to be avoided, lightness and 
daintiness being the chief things to be aimed 
at. A taking colour is always to be com¬ 
mended, as this is more likely to “catch the 
judge’s eye,” with favourable results. In 
some shows points are given for those exhibits 
which would show up best by artificial light, 
and when this is the case biues and mauves 
are best, avoided, though charming in them¬ 
selves. 

A few combinations that may be mentioned 
as giving good effect, in their different sea¬ 
sons, are Iceland Poppies in all shades of 
yellow from lemon to orange; Shirley 
Poppies in all shades of pink and red, com¬ 
bined with light Grasses. If picked as much 
as possible in the biid stage, these will last 
well, Pink Sweet Pens, w ith Gypsophila (the 
annual variety, G. elegans,- for elioicef and 
Grasses, are also loycljur and if Ro^es are 


September 7, 1907 


GARDENING ILL UNIRATE D. 


300 



used, Liberty and Killarney make a beautiful 
table decoration. Mrs. W. J. Grant is | 
another good Rose for the purpose, and some 
lovely effects may be produced by using Ma 
Capucine' and Mme. Falcot, combined with 
red-brown foliage. Nasturtiums and Mont- 
bretias, white Anemone japonica, and scar¬ 
let Lobelia eardinalis are also good mixtures, 
whilst autumn brings an endless variety of 
tinted leaves and berries, and the whole 
range of Chrysanthemums. Elaborate table 
centres should be avoided, and also a super¬ 
abundance of trailing greenery, whilst the 
foliage used should always be of the freshest 
and brightest green obtainable. 

In conclusion, let me urge the importance 
of bringing all flowers to the show as fresh as 
possible. Competitors from a distance often 
complain that they cannot show well against 
those on the spot, but it is quite possible to 
do this if due care is exercised. The great 
thing is to give the flowers a good drink 
directly they are cut. Put them right into a 
pail of water—leaves and all not allowing 
the water to touch the blooms themselves, 
and keep them there for a couple of hours. 


VEGETABLES. 


DEALING WITH A CLAY SOIL. 

I should be glad of your advice in the treatment of 
the soil in my garden? It is a very still clay, and 
with the constant rain we have in Glasgow it is 
always very wet and unworkable. There is suffi¬ 
cient natural drainage. I should think, as the garden 
is on a slope; but notwithstanding that, the ground 
appears quite sour, and in some parts is covered 
with Moss. I thought this year of leaving as much 
as possible dug up rough in the winter, and then 
liming in spring. With one border, which has the 
best exposure, and where the soil appears to be espe¬ 
cially bad. 1 thought of taking up all the plants and 
putting quick lime on it, and should he glad to know 
if this would be eoriect? If so. when, how, and 
what quantity of lime would lie applied to a garden 
of a i acre? The border is about 25 feet long by 
6 feet. If any other treatment would he better, I 
should lie glad to know of it? During the last few 
years the garden has been well dug and manured.— 
(Jlascow. 

[The very best thing you can do with the 
clay soil in your garden is to double dig or 
bastard trench it.. This will have the effect 
of draining superfluous moisture from the 
surface, nw it will then he able to pass oil 
down to the subsoil, and the top spit will, in 


I soil from becoming consolidated again. We 
have before now, -when suitable materials 
have not been forthcoming, seen long litter, 
just as it is carted from tne stable-yard, dug 
1 into and mixed with a heavy subsoil, and 
! with excellent results. Whichever of the 
, above-mentioned materials you elect to em- 
' ploy should be ready to hand, so that no 
I delay shall occur once the digging is started. 

1 As to when it should be carried out, the 
j sooner the better, so that the soil can get 
settled down into place before you require 
| the plot for cropping next spring. 

Regarding the top spit, which you say 
1 of clay and retentive of moisture, we should 
I advise you to mix a liberal dressing of finclv- 
pulverised old mortar rubble or cinder-ashes 
(passing the latter through a jj-inch sieve to 
free them of foreign matters) witli it, and, if 
properly done, it will be impossible for the 
soil to become close and adhesive again. 
Lime rubbish is not always easy to obtain, 
but, as at rule, there is little or no difficulty 
in obtaining a supply of ashes. At any 
rate, whichever is most convenient for you 
should be obtained, wheeled in and spread 
evenly all over the surface prior to com¬ 
mencing operations. All being ready, you 
should commence by marking off the ground 
into sections 3 feet wide, the full length or 
width of the plot, putting in a stake at either 
end to mark the places. This done, stretch 
a line across tho plot, proceed to dig out the 
first section one spit in depth, shovelling out 
the loose particles at the bottom as well, 
and wheel the whole to the opposite end of 
the plot. If properly done, you will then 
have an excavation 3 feet in width and nearly 
1 foot in depth, if you insist on a nearly new 
and full-sized digging spade being used. 
Before breaking or digging up the bottom 
spit— i.r., the lowermost spit in the excava¬ 
tion—wheel in the manure or whatever you 
have provided for mixing with it. Then dig 
up and thoroughly mix the soil and manure, 
etc., together, using a fork for the purpose if 
the clay subsoil is very hard, and pulverise 
or break it up as much as possible. When 
this is completed, you may then dig and east 
the top spit of the next section on the top 
of this, endeavouring, while doing so, to 
incorporate the ashes or mortar rubbish with 
the soil as far ns possible, and continue in 
the manner described until the whole plot 
has been treated. Some three or four weeks 
before you will require the ground for plant 
ing or sowing next season, level any in¬ 
equalities there may be in the surface, and 
then dig the plot with a fork, breaking the 
soil down as fine as possible, which will si ill 
further assist in tho ashes and soil becoming 
more intimately mixed.] 


Pajonies and Gypsophila. From a photograph by Co!. F. Taylor, 10, Cobham-road, Norbiton. 


Before packing, shake the moisture off them, 
and lay them in rows in a wooden or card¬ 
board dress-box, with a layer of paper in 
between each row to keep them steady. They 
should last fresh for several hours out of 
water, and stand even a long journey satis¬ 
factorily. When finally arranging them, cut 
a little off each stem, and in the case of Roses 
or other hard-wooded flowers, strip a little of 
the outside off the bottom of the stems, so 
that they may better absorb a fresh supply of 
water. ' ' Emily E. Williamson. 

W'thtead, Canterbury. 


Ferns in the house.— Tropical Ferns and 
Orchids will do for a short time in the house 
now, if carefully watered. Plants in baskets 
should be taken to the sink, dipped in water, 
and left for a time to drain. Once a week is 
generally often enough to do this. Ferns 
should never be exposed to hot sunshine. If 
brown scale settles on a plant it may be pos¬ 
sibly to clean it with a small sponge and soap 
and water, mixed with a little paraffin, but in 
bad cases the plant had better be destroyed, 
as the insects sprea(Ldtr«thers. " 

Digitized by XjOv 


ue uesiro 

8 le 


consequence—particularly if you adopt our 
advice with regard to its treatment (which 
will be mentioned later on)—be rendered 
sweeter and more adapted for plant or vege¬ 
table culture. Thoroughly working and stir¬ 
ring the subsoil also exert great influence 
on the well-being of the crops, inasmuch as 
they are then the better able to withstand 
the effects of a protracted drought owing to 
moisture being attracted to the surface, and 
the 6oil being in a more aerated condition 
generally. 

We, therefore, advise you to deal with as 
much of the total area as you can con¬ 
veniently spare in this manner now or very 
shortly, and the remainder in twelve months’ 
time. As you have well manured the top 
spit for the past ten years, you may omit 
doing so this season— i.e., on the portion 
which you decide shall be trenched—but you 
should provide a sufficiency of it to give the 
subsoil a thorough good dressing, or, in lieu 
of it, you. may use burnt refuse, the sweep¬ 
ings from the paths or drives, decayed vege¬ 
table matter, or what is sometimes denomi¬ 
nated the rubbish heap, coal and cinder- 
ashes, or old mortar rubble—anythipg, in 
fact, that will mix with and prevent the clay 


Onions diseased. —I am sending you two Onions, 
ami shall be greatly obliged if you can tell inc, 
through the medium of your valuable paper, what 
they have been attacked by, and whether there is 
any cure? I have a small garden, the soil being 
principally rather chalky. A certain amount of 
manure was put in last autumn. Up to about a 
fortnight ago the Onions looked perfectly healthy, 
hut since then the leaves have been attacked by a 
species of blight, and in about a week they become 
quite black and brittle. I enclose two specimens— 
one just going and the other completely gone. Any 
information on the subject would be very acceptable, 
as I am not the only one who is experiencing the 
same complaint. Last year there was no sign of any 
disease, the Onions doing extremely well.—F. A. 
Buti.br. 

[To the cold, ungenial weather is very 
largely due the severe attack of mildew cn 
vour Onions. It is very common this season. 
We have heard it widely complained of, and 
the best gardeners are baffled to cure it. 
Generally it is the rule to advise the spraying 
of the plants with the Bordeaux mixture or 
copper sulphate and lime solution, but to be 
efficacious that must be done the moment 
there are anv signs of white mould seen cn 
the plants. Even then, because of the smooth 
nature and peculiar, erect form of Onion 
leaves, it is difficult to get the mixture to ad¬ 
here. Possibly, the best- way is to damp the 
plants, then to smother them where the mil¬ 
dew is first seen, with flowers of sulphur. 
This mildew, like the Potato fungus, seems 
to have come to stay. Dress a fresh piece of 
ground for Onions freely with lime and soot, 
well fork it in, then in the winter add a heavy 
dressing of manure. But specially dress any 
mildewed nlatare so soon as seen with sulphur 

‘ffNPtf'EftSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 








370 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


September 7, 1907 


GARDEN WORK. 

Conservatory. —It will soon be time to 
think of housing specimen Azaleas and 
Heaths, for the weather is so very uncertain, 
and if a plant gets too much water, some in¬ 
jury may be done, though I do not think 
much harm will follow just yet, as it is not 
likely that any plants outside will get too 
much water from passing showers. The in¬ 
jury will be done by trusting too much to 
the showers doing our work, and neglecting 
the outside watering. A shower, when it 
comes daily, does not reach the bottom roots 
in a pot, as the foliage of the plant scatters 
a good deal of the water which falls from 
the clouds, and anyone trusting to it will find 
himself in difficulties, especially in the case 
of hard-wooded plants, tho best roots of 
which are often found at the bottom of the 
ball. Before any plants are placed indoors 
for the winter, a thorough overhaul should 
take place, the pots and plants cleaned, and, 
if necessary, tho drainage seen to. Worms 
do a good deal of damage when they get into 
the pots, especially in blocking up the drain¬ 
age. One cannot use lime-water for worms in 
Azalea or Erica pots, as such plants do not 
thrive where there is lime in the soil; but 
worms may be taken out of pots if the plant 
is carefully turned out, ns the worms will 
soon show themselves. Worms arc poor, 
timid creatures, and may he made to show 
themselves by thrusting a thin wire through 
the hall. Worms do so much harm in pots 
that if there is a suspicion of their presence, 
some pain** should bo taken to clear them 
out. Very often a tap on the pot will make 
them show themselves. Salvias, Eupa- 
toriums, and other strong rooted plants 
which have been planted out, with the inten¬ 
tion of lifting them in September, should bo 
cut round with a spade to sever the 
strongest roots, and cause the production of 
fibres, which, when lifted, will lead to the 
successful removal. Pot off Hydrangea cut¬ 
tings, which are now well rooted. These 
will ultimately be placed in 5-inch pots and 
grown cool. Each plant will in the spring 
produce one large hend of bloom. The 
Coral-plant (Erythrina Crista-galli) is an old 
plant, and when well grown, makes a very 
useful subject for the conservatory, when the 
flowering shoots are neatly staked out. After 
flowering, the 6hoots may be cut down to the 
base, and they may be kept through the win¬ 
ter in a moderately dry condition anywhere 
where the frost does not reach them. The 
earliest Achimenes and Gloxinias will now 
be going to rest, and the supply of water 
should be reduced ; and when the growth is 
ripe, lay the pots on their sides, under the 
stage, in a cool house, and let them go to 
rest. All they want is to be kept dry and 
safe from frost. Strong bulbs of Vallota 
purpurea will now be showing flower-spikes. 
Do not hurry them ; they will be safe in a 
cold-frame for the present, and give weak 
liquid-manure. They may be taken to the 
greenhouse shortly. Open out Cyclamens 
and Cinerarias in cold-frames, as the foliage 
must have room. Very strong plants may 
have a further shift into larger pots. 

Stove. —Among the new plants which are 
easily raised from seeds, and make useful 
flowering plants the same season, we may 
class Irapaticns Holsti. It partakes some 
what of tho character of lmpatiens Sultani, 
but is larger and better in every way—at 
least, I think so. I sowed a packet of seeds 
in the early spring, and the plants are now 
in flower in 5-inch pots, and will, I think, 
make useful specimens when they receive 
another shift. There is considerable variety 
in colour among tho seedlings, including 
crimson, scarlet, rose, and w'hite. They look 
as if they might be increased by cuttings, 
but when seedlings can be raised 60 freely, 
it seems hardly necessary to propagate them 
in any other way. Eucharis Lilies, which 
have been cooled down and rested, will be 
ready to go back to the stove us soon as 
white flowers are wanted. Liquid-manure 
will help them now. I do not know any 
plnnt which responds so quickly to liquid- 
manure after the resting period, when 
warmth is given again. These plants should 
never be over-potted, and when moved into 
large pots, they mayremain withou| disturb 

Digitize 


a\VT**nain without dist 

Go gle 


ance. I have seen large specimens almost 
bursting their pots, flowering most abund¬ 
antly, and kept going chiefly by weak 
stimulants. 

Little-grown fruits. — When we grew 
Bananas, something like forty years ago. no 
one seemed to care for the fruit. They 
were, of course, grown in rather a lofty stove, 
in a bed over hot-water pipes. But gentle¬ 
men who had been out in Jamaica and other 
warm countries favoured them. Now r the 
“bov in the street’' has acquired the taste, 
and in 6ome places the peel, like the Orange- 
peel, has become a danger. We could grow 
as good Bananas in this country if the neces¬ 
sary warmth and moisture wore supplied; 
but, of course, it would not pay, though a 
Musa or two might be grown in tropical 
houses for the effect of the immense leaves. 
The old plants, or, rather, the stems, die 
after fruiting; but several strong suckers are 
thrown up from the bottom to carry on the 
work. A strong sucker, under favourable 
conditions of warmth and moisture, will fruit 
in about a year. The Passion-fruit (Passi- 
flora edulis) we also grew in the same house, 
trained to wires near the roof, and very 
freely the plants fruited. They were planted 
out in small brick pits, where there was a 
little warmth for the routs. We had them 
also in a cooler house, but, though they 
fruited freely, they were not so good, tho 
skin of the fruit being very thick and not so 
much pulp. The Guava and the Cape Goose¬ 
berry we also grew, the former in a span- 
roofed house, trained near the glass. This, 
as most gardeners know, is an < .ergreen, 
with leaves somewhat similar to the foliage 
of the Orange tribe. The flowers are white, 
and arc freely produced, and usually set well 
in a temperature of 50 degrees or 60 . The 
Cape Gooseberry, in its growth, reminds one 
of the Tomato, and it will grow under the 
same conditions, either under glass or out¬ 
side, trained to a warm south wall. We have 
grown and used all these fruits on big party 
nights, when some novelty was desired in 
the dessert. 

Late Crapes.- -The weather does not help 
much in the ripening of late Grapes this 
season, and the sunshine must be supple 
mented with tire heat to bring them into 
condition for keeping. We have one house 
where this cannot be done, as there are no 
means of heating except by opening the doors 
of house connected therewith, and, there 
being a glass-covered corridor, we can do 
this if necessary. Last year we began cut¬ 
ting Hamburghs in this house without tire 
heat early in August, and Alicante about a 
month later. I mention this to show that 
in a light house, built to catch the sunshine, 
Grapes can be grown without fire heat in the 
average season. This season has been a 
puzzle to most of us, and will, I fancy, es¬ 
tablish a record for absence of sunshine. In 
this respect some places are more favoured 
than others. 

Ripening: the wood.— It may be advisable 
to use a little extra fire heat in Peach-houscs 
and vineries when the crop has been 
gathered, to insure the proper maturation of 
the wood, as so much depends upon this for 
next season’s crop. We can, of course, ven¬ 
tilate freely, but warm air is required to 
harden and complete the ripening of the w ood 
of Grapes, Peaches, and Figs. 

Plants In the house.— Blue and white 
Campanulas are very effective now in any 
position where the drooping growth can have 
freedom. They will do in a basket or on 
brackets. A group of Achimenes will be 
very effective in the room, or, in 5-inch pots, 
may be used to fill any Bamboo or wire 
flower-stands. Being full of roots, they will 
require watering daily, and will last some 
time. 

Outdoor garden. —Hollyhocks now are 
usually raised from seeds, because seedlings 
are more robust, and are less liable to 
disease ; but if anyone has anything special 
in the Hollyhock way, cuttings of the steins 
will root now in a frame, kept, close and 
shaded for a time. Single buds or eyes will 
form roots in the course of a month or eo, 
and may then be potted up and kept in n 
cold frame all winter, and planted out in 
| spring. The stems may be cut up into single 


joints, leaving a couple of inches of stem 
below the joint to fasten the cuttings in the 
soil, and hold them steady. Prepare the 
bed of sandy soil, with a layer of sand on 
the top, and press the cuttings into the bed 
in rows ti inches apart and 3 inches apart in 
the rows. Every cutting with a sound bud 
in the axil of the leaf will root. Cuttings of 
Pentstemons and choice Antirrhinums will 
root now in a cold frame, and may remain 
in all winter, and be planted out in spring. 
Pinks of the choice varieties will be rooted 
sufficiently to plant out in beds 0 inches 
apart. If not planted soon, tho lacing is not 
so perfect. Common border Pinks may be 
pulled to pieces and planted, cither as edg¬ 
ings or masses in the borders any time during 
September. A top-dressing of soot and short 
manure forked in will be useful where Pinks 
are planted. Plant, firmly, and, if dry 
weather comes, give a good soaking of water 
occasionally to keep them fresh till roots are 
forming. Plant rather deeply. 

Fruit garden. —Arrears of work in sum¬ 
mer pruning should be fetched up, so that 
the fruits may swell to the full size and put 
on colour. All fruits will be late and smaller 
than usual this season, and every possible 
help should be given them. A good soaking 
of sulphate of ammonia, one ounce to the 
gallon, will help late Apples and Penrs, 
where the trees are carrying a full crop, but 
the crop on many trees is thin. Remove all 
surplus shoots from Raspberries and the 
Loganberry. The latter is being a good deal 
planted, and is more in demand. Finish 
planting Strawberries, and pot the usual 
supply for late forcing, ami stand thinly oil 
boards or coal ashes to keep out the worms. 
The loam for Strawberries should be good. 
The usual proportions are two thirds loam 
and the remainder nmnurial matter, includ¬ 
ing a little bone-meal and one pound per 
bushel of artificial plant food. When I had 
to use very sandy loam for this work, I 
found a great advantage in mixing a littlo 
clay with the compost. The clay was dried, 
and then broken up tine, and mixed with the 
loam. Young Peach-trees which arc making 
too much wood may be checked at. the root 
now by opening a trench along the front, 
beginning 4 feet or 5 feet away from the 
stem, and working under the extremities of 
the roots, and shortening them. In some 
cases it may be as well to wait till the 
foliage is ripe, and then lift the tree3 and 
replant. Lifting and shortening the ex¬ 
tremities will generally suffice. 

Vegetable garden.— Linings of warm 
manure should be placed round late Melon 
and Cucumber beds where tho heat has de¬ 
clined. Sow r plenty of Cucumber seeds to 
have strong healthy plants to fill houses for 
winter bearing. Houses should be 
thorougly cleaned with soap and water be¬ 
fore planting. Mix a little vaporite wdth the 
soil during its preparation, if there is any 
danger from wireworms or eelvvorms. At 
least half the soil should be good, sound 
loam, and the remainder lighter stuff, such 
as leaf-inould and old manure, with a dash of 
old plaster and hone meal, the whole to be 
well incorporated. No more Rhubarb should 
be pulled for any purpose after this date. 
Spare liquid manure may. with advantage, 
be given to weakly Asparagus beds. Four 
ounces per square yard of nitrate of soda 
will be beneficial, and should be applied in 
showery weather. Earth up Brussels Sprouts 
and other winter greens, to support, and 
strengthen the stems. Thin Turnips so that 
each plant has a square foot. Always choose 
a dry dav for earthing up Celery or Car- 
doons. Endive and Lettuces should be tied 
up to blanch when dry. Plant out more 
Lettuces and Endives on south borders. If 
there are any spare frames, they should bo 
filled with Lettuces and Endives, leaving the 
lights off for the present. Tomatoes outside 
will, I think, be a failure this year, as every¬ 
thing is so backward, and we have heard a 
good deal lately about diseased Potatoes, 
so that tho outlook is not very bright. 

E. Hobluy. 

THE COMING WEEKS WORK. 

Extracts from a {farden Diary. 
i tyr 0th .—Opened out Chrysanthe- 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 





.September 7, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


371 


mums to give more air ami full exposure. 
This refers more especially to the decorative 
varieties, some of which are grown in 5-inch 
and 6-inch pots, as we want small, dwarf 
plants, with good foliage, for various pur¬ 
poses. Shifted on late Cinerarias and Pri¬ 
mulas. We always sow twice, to have early 
and late plants. Shifted on a lot of seedling 
Asparagus Sprerigeri and A. plumosus. 

September 10th. —Flower-beds still retain 
their brightness, but there is a good deal of 
picking and regulating to do, and the mowing 
machine is in constant work. There is very 
little watering to do, so that labour is saved 
in that direction. We have been busy prick¬ 
ing out seedling hardy plants of various 
kinds, as the weather is suitable for this 
work. Choice Pinks have been planted out 
9 inches apart, and the beds for Carnations 
have been dressed with soot and forked over. 
When planting, a little fresh loam will be 
placed in each hole. 

September 11th. —Recently' budded Briers 
have been looked over, and the ties loosened. 
All Brier shoots below the. buds have been 
rubbed off. This has been a good season for 
budding. Some of the weakly Tea Roses 
will be removed, and the site prepared for 
Hybrid Teas. Cuttings of some of the best 
and most vigorous growing Roses have been 
planted in a specially prepared bed in a par¬ 
tially shaded border. We like to have Roses 
on their own roots, but weaklings are of no 
use. 

September 12th. —Wo have been looking 
round certain Apple ami Pear-trees, which 
are making too much wood, and shall make 
A note against them to be root-pruned on 
one side immediately. Finished potting for 
the present, at any rate, early flowering 
bulbs. Our Frocsia bulbs are fine and well 
ripened, and as they' will be brought on 
quietly, they will. 1 have no doubt, flower 
well. The«e for the present will bo under 
an open frame, but Hyacinths and Narcissi 
are plunged in ashes. 

September 13th.- —Mushroom beds are bring 
made up in the house now'. We have given 
the house a thorough clean-out, and the 
crevices where woodlice would be likely to 
hide have been dosed with boiling water. 
We find the advantage of this in starting 
clear of insects. Thero is room for some 
seven or eight beds, and these will be filled 
in succession, and later we shall want room 
for Rhubarb and Seakale ; but every bit of 
space is made the most of. The house or 
shed is well constructed, and though we have 
the means of warming it, fire heat is seldom 
required. 

September 14th. —We have cut round with 
the spade Enpatoriums. Salvias, and other 
things which will be potted up soon, but we 
shall keep them outside as long as it is safe to 
do so. Nights are cold now, and it will 
soon he time to think of starting fires; but 
coke is dear, and economy must be studied. 
To that end, every boiler has been uncovered 
and the flues thoroughly cleaned. This will 
permit the fuel to do its work properly. 


LAW AND CUSTOM. 

Notice to quit after holding over.-Kindly ex¬ 
plain the legal position of a tenant of a piece of 
pasture land of about 3 acres 1 rood 20 poles? The 
said meadow was held on a lease for seven years 
from September 29th. 1888. The tenant has re¬ 
mained in possession since the lease expired until the 
present time on the same terms and conditions (but 
there was no written agreement). In February, 1907, 
another man bought the field, and through his agents 
gave the tenant six months' notice to leave, ns from 
March 25th, 1907. What legal notice to leave can 
the tenant claim, and what is his legal position 
generally ?—ESTATE. 

[The lease ended in September. Iu the 
absence of any agreement to the contrary, the 
tenant holding over with the concurrence of 
the landlord w'ould do so as an ordinary 
yearly tenant, and, as such, would be en¬ 
titled to 12 months’ notice, terminating on 
the expiration of any year of tenancy. You 
had better, therefore, inform the new land¬ 
lord, or his agent, that you require 12 months’ 
notice, ending in September, in accordance 
with the provisions of the Agricultural Hold¬ 
ings Acts. As to the legal position, other¬ 
wise. of course, there may be a small claim 
for compensation on quitting. What did the 
lease say as to that?— BarriSti^.] J > 


POULTRY. 


SOFT-SHELLED EGOS. 

Opinions differ considerably as to the cause 
of these. Poultry-keepers are agreed that it is 
absolutely necessary the birds are supplied 
with abundance of shell producing material. 
Many small owners of poultry have to keep 
them under close confinement, and to these 
it is of the utmost importance the birds 
should be well supplied with grit in some 
form. 1 have often noticed the many ques¬ 
tions asked in this and other papers ns to the 
cause of soft-shelled eggs, and the answer 
given is to the effect that there has been an 
absence of grit within reach of the birds. 
While I am ready to admit this to some ex¬ 
tent, still I am convinced the evil arises from 
other causes. This has presented itself to me 
in a marked way during the past season, as 
I have had a large percentage of either soft 
or thin-shelled eggs from my hens, although 
they have had the same run as in previous 
years. My hens have always had a large, free 
run iu an orchard. They have been given soft 
food in the morning, and best corn at night, 
according to their needs. Under iliese con¬ 
ditions, I have seldom had a soft-shelled egg. 
This year, not wishing to keep so many fowls, 
I reduced the number 70 per cent. These 
few birds have had the same run and same 
treatment in every way. To my surprise, 
early in the spring I found they laid daily a 
good many soft-shelled eggs, and have con¬ 
tinued to do so during the season. So persis¬ 
tent has this been, that 1 made close observa¬ 
tion as to the cause, and am convinced that 
it arises from over-feeding. 1 discontinued 
feeding gradually till they had to obtain their 
own living. Still the evil continued all 
through the season. It may ho that this food 
was appetising but deficient of elements that 
produced shell. This lack of shell could not 
arise from want of grit or lime, seeing that 
during the whole time they have had enor¬ 
mous quantities of these from building 
materials around them. One of the marked 
features has been the increased number of 
eggs, and to say that an absence of grit is the 
sole cause is wrong. Over-feeding should be 
avoided, as I am convinced this was the cause 
iu my case. Mv stock consists of free laying, 
non-sitting kinds, which, no doubt, made the 
tendency to lay soft shelled eggs worse. 
Probably, had these been of the heavy Cochin, 
or Rock type, this abundance of food would 
have promoted flesh instead. 

In confined runs poultry-keepers are prone 
to over-feed, especially when they want to in¬ 
crease the egg production. While abundance 
of good food should be given, large quantities 
of Maize and highly stimulating material 
should be avoided. The more naturally the 
birds are treated, the better. 

Dorset. 


SELECTING THE WINTER LAYERS. 

It is not many years ago since eggs were al¬ 
most unknown during the winter months, but 
owing to the great progress that has been 
made in artificial hatching and rearing it is 
possible to bring out the chickens early in the 
spring, giving them sufficient time to com¬ 
mence lajing towards the latter part of 
October or during November. The import¬ 
ance of securing a supply of eggs during the 
winter months need not be emphasised, as it 
stands to reason that it pays infinitely better 
to produce eggs, even though but half the 
quantity, when they are selling at twopence 
each rather than when they are worth no 
more than eighteen or twenty a shilling. 
Breed, strain, and management have qll an 
important bearing upon the question of 
winter eggs, but perhaps the point of most 
vital importance is the selection, which, if not 
already done, should be performed without 
delay. 

When selecting hens for egg production 
those that are well developed in the posterior 
region of the body should be chosen, as this 
is an almost infallible guide towards good 
laying powers. A table bird, on the other 
hand, possesses a large and deep breast, while 
it is comparatively small behind. The use of 
any particular organ naturally tends to its 
increase, and thus a prolific layer or a good 


table bird possesses well developed egg organs 
or breast, as the case may be. In choosing a 
hen for egg production, one that is firm and 
close in body should be selected, of a good 
size, clean and tall on the legs, and active in 
habits. The male bird, too, requires careful 
selection, as he possesses a certain amount of 
influence on the laying powers of the off¬ 
spring. 

A point that must never be lost sight of is 
that “like produces like,” and thus, as far as 
possible, hens from a good laying strain 
should be chosen, as it is pretty certain that 
poor layers will never produce good ones. If 
one is fortunate enough to have a pen of 
birds that are very prolific layers, every pullet, 
therefrom should be retained, ns only in this 
manner is it possible to build up a really 
ood strain. The best birds should always be 
ept, and on no account disposed of, even 
though a tempting price, be refused; they 
should be mated with a cock from a good 
laying strain, and in this manner birds of 
first-rate laying powers will eventually be 
secured. 

Hens of the general purpose type usually 
make the most satisfactory winter layers, 
and, as far as possible, the selection should 
take place among birds of this description. 
The best time for hatching these birds is 
during February and March, but it is impos¬ 
sible to lay down any hard-and-fast rule in 
regard to this matter, because it varies so 
greatly with the breed and the conditions 
under which the birds are reared. The selec¬ 
tion should take place among the carlv- 
hatched pullets—those that look as though 
they will ’ commence to lay about the first 
week in November. Only thoroughly healthy 
hens should be chosen-; any that show the 
least sign of disease being rigidly excluded. 
When eggs arc being produced merely for the 
market this matter is not, perhaps, of such 
great importance, Init when the eggs are for 
hatching, under no circumstances whatever 
should a sick bird be allowed a place in the 
breeding pen. The signs of ill-health are 
usually quite apparent and unmistakable; 
the affected birds have a listless appearance, 
their feathers lack the brilliant lustre found 
on healthy birds, they stand moping about, 
taking no exercise ; the comb is dull, and the 
appetite is bad. E. T. B. 


BIRDS. 

Death of canary (H. M. H.).— The cause 
of death was haemorrhage of the stomach, 
brought on, probably, by the eating of some 
irritating food or matter. The bird had not 
a very strong constitution, and had seen the 
best of its days, therefore it would be 
affected by something very trivial and that 
could not be prevented, and that, under other 
circumstances, would not have done any in¬ 
jury. A little Hemp-seed would, probably, 
have benefited the bird, and by affording 
more nourishment might have prevented its 
death. No treatment during illness would, 
in our opinion, have saved it.—J. T. Bird. 


The Black Currant gall-mite.— During 
1905 6 and 7 I have gratuitously distributed 
upwards of 3,000 reports to different fruit¬ 
growers in the British Isles giving particu¬ 
lars of the lime and sulphur treatment for 
the Black Currant gall - mite. Many 
growers have since stated that “the cure re¬ 
commended has proved most successful,” or 
“we are entirely free from big-bud now.” I 
propose issuing, shortly, a further report 
upon this subject, in which many of these 
reports will be incorporated, and I invite all 
growers who have tried this remedy to write 
me stating upon how many acres or bushes 
they have tried it, with what result, and if 
they have anv objection to their report being 
published with the others (not necessarily 
with their name and address).— Walter E. 
Collin oe. 

Readers on holiday.-During the holiday season 
readers who find any difficulty in obtaining GARDEN¬ 
ING Illustrated from the local newsagent or book¬ 
stall, may have a copy posted regularly for a few 
weeks or longer by sending a remittance at the rate 
of lid. a copy to the Publisher, Gardening Illus¬ 
trated, 17, Furnival-street, Holborn, London, E.C. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


372 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


September 7, 1907 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

Questions.— Queries and answer* are inserted in 
Gardening free of charge if correspondents follow these 
rules: AU communications should be clearly and concisely 
written on one side of the paper only, and addressed to 
the Editor of Gardening, 17, Fumfoalstreet, Uolbom, 
London, E.C. Letters on business should be sent to the 
Publisher. The name and address of the sender are 
required, in at Id it ion to any designation he may desire to 
be used in the. paper. When vutre than one query is scut, 
each should be on a separate piece, of paper, ami not more 
than three queries should be. sent at a time. Correspon¬ 
dents should bear in mind that, as Gardening has to be. 
sent to press some time in advance of date, queries cannot 
always be replied to in the issue immediately following 
the receipt of their communication. We do not reply to 
queries by post. 

Naming flowers, shrubs, etc .—Fair examples 
Of each 8ubject—i.e., leaves and shoots as well as flowers 
and fruit—if to be had, must be sent. When more 
than one plant is sent each should be numbered. If 
these rules are not complied with subjects cannot be 
named correctly. 

Naming fruit.— The differences between varieties 
of fruits are in many cases so trifling that it is necessary 
that three examples showing the range of form of each 
kind should be sent. Hot more than four varieties at a 
time should be sent. 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

Tacsonia failing (Tar son/o).-E ven with your in¬ 
creased details we cannot point with absolute cer¬ 
tainty to any reason for the buds of your Tacsonia 
flowers dropping. Everything seems favourable ex¬ 
cept that un increased amount of sunshine would be 
helpful, and, possibly, a greater supply of air during 
the summer is required 

Penzance Brier with black spot (E. H'c*ton. 
Host).— The leaves sent are affected with “black 
spot,” a fungoid pest which is very common at this 
season of the year. Possibly you use too much 
manure. We have noted that this disease often ap¬ 
pears among highly-fed Roses and also where soil is 
somewhat wet. You can do no good this year, but 
next spring, after pruning the plants, spray them 
over with the Bordeaux mixture at least once a 
week Scatter some lime and soot on surface of soil. 

Begonias dropping their flowers (G. M.).— 
Aii excess of water or the reverse will cause the 
flowers to drop, while too dry an atmosphere, which 
is most probably the cause in your case, is sometimes 
the reason of the trouble. The original species from 
which all the garden varieties have been raised are 
natives of the Andean region of .South America, 
where a good deal of atmospheric moisture prevails. 
Kindly send a sample cf the small white worms you 
refer to, and we will do our best to name them for 
you. 

Pelargonium leaves unhealthy (.Y. Y. Z. and 
J. Horton ).—Your Pelargoniums have not been at-, 
tacked by scale. The leaves are suffering from a 
disease which very often attacks this section, and 
seems to resemble a kind of eczema. Overfeeding the 
plants or propagating from such will cause this 
trouble. Plants grown in poor soil are seldom 
attacked. Withhold stimulants, pick off the af¬ 
fected leaves, and the plants will generally become 
healthy. You may remove the flowers up till the 
time you take the plants indoors—say, some time dur¬ 
ing September. 

Dianthus glacialis (.4non).—This species is a 
native of the highest mountain ranges near the limit 
of the eternal snows, and one of its great enemies 
in the garden is the slug. The plant is not difficult 
to raise from seeds, but the seedlings must be grown 
very hardily and not coddled in any wny. The soil 
should he loam, with a little leaf-mould, adding 
plenty of grit. If possible, you should get some 
granite chips and mingle with the soil, and when! 
potting the plants wedge them tightly between two 
larger pieces of the granite. No manure should be 
used, and a well-exposed, sunny position selected. 

Gentiana bavarica (Anon). — The Bavarian 
Gentian is a somewhat difficult species to grow suc¬ 
cessfully, and a soil mixture of peat, loam, and sand in 
equal parts is the best. Established plants must 
always be potted very firmly, taking care that the 
rosettes of leaves forming the tuft are tightly hedd 
together during the operation, and so arranged that 
they are nearly level with the soil. Select a partially 
shaded position, and in the summer-time see that the 
plants do not suffer from drought —stand the pots 
containing the plants in shallow- saucers of water. 
Seedlings may he raised in a cold-frame, the green¬ 
house is not a good place for such things. 

Roses for pergola (J. C. J.).-You will find the 
selection given below a very good one. and the sorts 
hold their foliage well into the winter, especially if 
you are somewhat sheltered and possess a good, deep 
subsoil: — Mine. Alfred C'nrriere, Longworth Rambler, 
Dcsprez ii flours jaunc, Rove d’Or, Chcshunt Hybrid, 
Reinc Marie llenriette, Francois t'rousse, Mrnc. 
Jules Siegfried, Lady Waterlow, Br. Rouges. Gruss. 
an Teplitz. Conrad F. Meyer, Mine. Isaac Tenure. 
Climbing La France, Kaiserin Friedrich, Monsieur 
Desir. You could plant beautiful sorts from the non¬ 
climbing group to cover the lower parts of the per¬ 
gola pillars, and they keep up a nearly constant 
supply of blossom from June to October. 

Feeding Pelargoniums growing In pots 
(Ada). — A good stimulant for these plants is liquid- 
m a mi re made from eow or sheep dung, mixed with 
soot writer, and applied about once a fortnight. Care 
should he taken not to use the mixture too strong. 
At the same time, there are many artificial manures 
in general use. The great advantage of these is their 
cleanliness and the readiness with which they can be 
applied. As most of these manures are exceedingly 
strong, especial care must be taken to study the 
directions supplied wi th t he manure, and not to ex¬ 
ceed the proper dose/^Tft the same tiiie, we should 

Digitized by GOOglC 


not advise a very extensive course of stimulants so 
late in the season as this, thoi/gh one or two doses 
may be helpful. When growth recommences in the 
spring, a moderate use of stimulants will be of con¬ 
siderable assistance. 

Roses for pegging down in a long border 

Uiypsojihila).— You eun turn this border into a very 
interesting one by planting good frec-growers, and 
pegging them to within about 1 foot of the soil. 
Thighs best done by inserting some stout pegs with a 
notch at top end to which to attach the tarred twine 
used in tying down the growths. Own-root plants 
would he preferred, hut. as many of the sorts can¬ 
not, perhaps, he obtained in that shape, ask for 
plants on the seedling Brier. These make good, long, 
willowy shoots near to the base of most sorts, just 
the right kfnd t.o bend. A few good sorts for such 
a windy position would Ire: Gruss au Teplitz, 
Kaiserin Friedrich. Gustave Regis. Francois Crousse, 
Lady Waterlow, Mine. Alfred Carrierc, Jiongwortli 
Rambler, Conrad F. Mevor. Mine. Abel Chatenay, 
Augustine Guinoisstau. Mine. Wagrani, Caroline 
Tcstout, La France, Ulrich Brunner, La Tosca, and 
Frau Karl Druaehki. 

Flower-bed (J. 0. E .).—The shape of the bed 
could be easily changed — it is all a question of ways 
and means. For example, by raising the front por¬ 
tion at least Hi inches, employing blocks of stone for 
the face, over which Aubrictias could tumble at will, 
and filling up tin- bed with soil to the depth named, 
the sharp angle now existing could be diminished by 
one half. Or yon may raise it by means of clay, and 
turf it over. A few cartloads of common soil—good 
kitchen-garden soil will do—would make a consider¬ 
able difference, and it is possible also to lower the 
soil against the house wall, and by transferring some 
soil from hack to front, assist matters in this way 
also. You say nothing about the aspect, or what 
you have hitherto grown, and had we the former 
before us we might have suggested a few tilings 
likely to succeed. As it at present exists the sharp 
slope is about the worst possible for plant growing. 
If you think we can further assist you, write us 
again. 

Campanula pusilla alba (//. II. Smith).— There 
arc at least three forms of this plant: C. pusilla 
(blue), C. p. alba (white), and C. p. pallida (pale 
blue). In all probability, it is the last to which you 
refer, hut we are unable to say without seeing the 
variety in Bower. Of dwarf Campanulas suitable for 
a small gardoti you might obtain: C. eiespitosn, C. 
Hendersonj, C, G. F. Wilson. C. pulln, C. garganiea, 
C. g. alba, Cf. g. hirsuta, C. carpatiea, C. c. alba, 
C. e. pallida. C. c. Kiverslea, C. c. Isobel. C. c. White 
Star. C. nlliamvfolia, (!. glomerata dahurica, C. 
punctata. C. persicifolia varieties—such as C. p. 
gramiifiora, C. p. alba coronata, C. p. Moerhcimi, and 
others. These forms of C. persicifolia range from 
2 feet to 3 feet high. Besides these, there are C. 
Hosti alba and tin- many forms of C. turbinata, the 
latter about 1 foot high. A valuable plant, if not too 
tall, is (’. Van llouttei: it is 3 feet high. C. Bur 
ghalti is similar in growth* with more deeply-coloured 
flowers. 

Gentiana acaulis (K. P. E.).— This is readily in¬ 
creased by division, and the work is best done in 
September or October. In the replanting the follow¬ 
ing items should be kept in mind. Prepare the 
ground by deep digging and by the addition of a 
little very old, decayed manure. The best type of 
plant would be such as contains three or four of the 
large growths. It is a mistake to plant large clumps 
intact. The old tufts should be pulled asunder, not 
cut with a knife. If a sharp instrument tie used nil 
the new creeping shouts may he detached without 
roots aud lost. Where the tufts arc of large size, 
first wash away the soil from them in a tub of water. 
In planting nothing is so important as low burying 
and firm planting. Take the young plants as above 
suggested, arrange them on one level, hold firmly by 
the left hand in such a way that the low'er leaves 
are on a .level with the surface soil. While still 
firmly holding the plants with the left hand so as 
to retain a compact turf, press in the soil with the 
other, and, finally, use all your energy to Brin the 
plants in position. When all are planted, make the 
entire lot firm by much treading down, both plants 
overhead and the soil around. 

FRUIT. 

Green fly on Plum-tree (Aniicus ).—The pest 
attacking your Plum-tree is green-fly. You can 
syringe the tree with paraffin emulsion now, and 
when the foliage has fallen spray it with the caustic 
alkali solution that we have so often recommended. 
Next spring syringe with some insecticide containing 
a mixture of soft "Soap and Quassia extract as soon as 
you see any signs of the pest. 

Plums cracking (T. G. Williams). -Cox’s Em¬ 
peror Plum is rather liable to crack, particularly in 
an abnormally cold, damp, and sunless season, such 
as this has been, and, so far as we are aware, there 
is no cure for it. The cracking is the result of the 
sap flow heing so very abundant, and this, coupled 
with the fact that the fruits swell more slowly than 
is usual, owing to a lack of warmth and sunshine, 
causes their skins to become distended to such an 
extent that they ultimately crack or become 
ruptured. We have witnessed a similar occurrence 
before now in a wet season, and perhaps the follow 
ipg year the fruits have been perfectly sound.. 

Growing for market (D. Smith).— Before you 
embark on market gardening you must have practi¬ 
cal experience, which can only he gained by working 
in some large market nursery, many or which are to 
he found round London. Even when a thorough 
knowledge of the business has been obtained you 
will have many obstacles to overcome. A grower for 
market must he near a town, and grow only such 
things as are in demand and that find a ready sale. 
In addition, you must have sufficient capital to go on 
with for paying wages and other necessary expenses. 
See the'reply to “ Cloverdenc,” in our issue of 


August 17th, p. 330, and you should also read the 
article, “ The Grower for Market," which appeared in 
these pages on December lfith, 1005, p. 540, a copy 
containing which can he had front the publisher, j>ost 
free, for lid. We know of no book giving the details 
you inquire iilioiit The information from books 
would help you very little, if at all. 

VEGETABLES. 

Making a kitchen garden (Culver ).-As the 
field you purpose converting into a kitchen garden 
has hut just recently been sown down, there is no 
danger that the .soil will have harboured wireworm. 
as is usually the case when old pastures are broken 
up. If you can afford the labour, most certainly 
have (lie ground trenched down to the gravel, as, 
being light and on gravel, there is no likelihood that 
it will be sour. SI ill farther, the greater the depth 
roots can go, the better chance have they of finding 
moisture during dry weather. Merely ploughing the 
ground hut 9 indies in depth is not good enough for 
garden crops. If in trenching you keep the bottom 
spit or layer of soil where it is after breaking it up, 
and will put a pood layer of manure on to it in each 
trench, before throwing on to it the top spit, the 
benefit to the crops will he great. The trenching 
can commence at once, if desired. You may trans¬ 
plant trees and shrubs iu October and onward. When 
sending further queries, please sign each one. 


SHORT REPLIES. 


E. G. Morton.— 1, The leaf of the Begonia you 
send has evidently been attacked by the shot hole 
fungus. 2. We shall he glad of some information as 
to how you are growing your Tomatoes—whether in 
pots or planted out—and the condition of the plants. 

- II. IF. Brown .—You may sow at once all the 

seeds you mention, with the exception of the French 
Marigold, on a south border or iu seed-pans, standing 
these in frames, letting the plants stand this winter, 
and planting out next April. Many of- them, how¬ 
ever, owing to being sown so late, will not bloom till 
late next year. You should have sown them in May or 

June, and planted out early in the autumn.-- 

Henry Cronchey .—You will, we think, be able to ob¬ 
tain Fuchsia Ethel from Messrs. Carter, Page, and 

Go., London Wall. E.C.- V. Atkinson .—What your 

soil evidently wants is a good dressing of lime, and. 
judging from the sample you send, draining is also 
necessary. See also reply to “Glasgow,” p. SCO.— 
F. //. II .—Being a seedling, you can give the plant 
any name you choose. You should submit plants to 
the Floral Committee of the Royal Horticultural 

Society.- E. J. Philpot .—Judging from what you 

say, we suspect tlie Asparagus-beetle is doing the 
damage. Kindly send a shoot with the pest on, and 

we will do our best to help you.- R. Allison.— 

Judging from the leaves you send, we can only con¬ 
clude that mildew has been the cause, as this fungus 
appears on some of those you forward. Sec article 
in last week's issue, re Chrysanthemums, p. 850. 
Are.you quite sure that the watering has been care- 
fully done? The soil on the surface of the pots may 
look moist, hut underneath it may be dust dry.— 

IF. II. r. -We cannot undertake to name florist 
flowers. The other seedlings you send are very good, 
with the exception of No. 3. which is a burster. 
No. 4 is a good white, and. given good cultivation, 
would he a fine flower.- Hcbridcace .—A malforma¬ 

tion due to some check iu the growth, or it may In¬ 
due to something in the soil in which this particular 

bulb is growing.- E. J. It .—The only book on the 

subject is “ The Fuchsia,” by Glcnny. This you may 
probably obtain at a second-hand bookshop. 


NAMES OF PLANTS AND FRUITS. 

Names of plants — IFood/awm.—Ruhus fruticosus 
florc-roseo-pleno.- Miss Hamilton. — The Marsh Mal¬ 

low (Althsea officinalis). Berry. —Rhamnus Fraiigula. 

- Walter Rabbits .—Eucomis punctata.- Compos .— 

1 and 2, Please send fertile fronds: 3. Hnrpaiium 
rigidum; 4, Euphorbia Cyparissus; 5. Creeping Jenny 
(Lysimachia nummularia); 6, Iceland Poppy. Kindly 

read our rules as to sending plants for name.- 

A. E. L.— Kindly send the leaves as well as the 

flowers. See our rules as to naming lu.wers, etc.- 

Arkle.— 1, The Wild Fennel (Fccniculum vulgnre); 

2, Next week: 3, Timothy (Phleum pratense); 4, 

Tufted flair Grns9 (Aira cespitosa).-IF. D. -1 

and 2, We do not undertake to name florist Rowers: 

3, Sedum spurium.-.S. II. Wright..— The Cockepur 

Thorn (Cratsegus crus-cnlli).- Alban Tims. — 1, 

Spiriea japonica; 2. Spiraea confusa; 3, Scabiosa 

caucasiea.-//. C.—Vitis Thunbergi.- .4. F. G.— 

Phacelia bipinnatiflda.- C. M. — Eccremocarpus 

scaber.- Wm. Wilson.— The Orchid you send bulbs or 

is Coelogyne cristata. an illustration of which, and 
how to grow, you will find in our issue of Novem¬ 
ber 10th, 1906, a copv of which can be had of the 

publisher, post free, for lid-- C. Meyer.— See reply 

to “ K. P. E.“ (p. 359), re Fig-trees.-B. D.— Rose 

Caroline Tcstout..- L. Riga.— 1, Rudbeckia. probably; 

should'like to know something ns to height; please 
send fully-developed blooms: 2, Bee Balm (Monarda 
didyma); 3 .Campanula grnndis;4. Epilobium angusti- 

folium album.-IF. T. E. Powell.— 1, Funkia evata ; 

2, Wo do not undertake to name florist flowers: 3, 

Origanum vulgnre.- J. Arkle.—2, Veronica spieata. 

_ C. s. T.— 1, Escallonla maera'ntha; 2, Ncpeta 

Mussini; 3, next week. 


Catalogues received.— Samuel Dobic and Son, 

Heath field, near Chester.-Boofc of Bulbs. -Wills 

and Segar, Onslow-crescent, South Kensington, S.W.— 

list of Bulbs. -R. H. Bath, Ltd., The Floral Farms. 

Wisbech .—List of Bulbs, etc., for 190S. -E. P. Dixon 

and Sons. Hull.— Buib List for 1907. -Dobbie ami 

CO., Rothesay, N.B .—Autumn Catalogue for 1907. - 

Messrs. W. Smith and Sons, 13. Market-street, Aher- 
rieen. —must r<Hed Catalogue of Flower-roots for 1907. 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


No. 1,488.— Vol. XXIX. 


Founded, by W. Robinson, Author of "The English Floner Garden.” 


SEPTEMBER 14, 1907. 


INDEX. 


Arabs chinensis.. .. 379 

Azaleas after flower¬ 
ing .386 

Beans, Kidney .. .. 374 

Beans, Runner .. .. 373 

Birds .385 

Border, treatment, of .. 381 
Rovkeria Gorardiana .. 379 I 
Buddleia vnriahilis .. 3S0 

Bulbs, early-flowering.. 340 
Bulbs, potting various.. 386 
Cabbage roo, club .. 374 
Carnations, American 
winter-flowering .. 383 
Carnations, Malmaison 382 
Carpentaria californica 379 
t'atalpha bignonioiiles 
(syn. G. syriugwifolia) 379 
Cauliflower, Autumn 

Giant.373 

Celery-fly, the .. .. 373 

Chrysanthemums .. 378 


Chrysanthemums, early 378 
Chrysanthemums - top- 
dressing the plant 8 .. 378 
Conservatory .. .. 384 

Crabs, fruiting .. .. 375 

Currant-bushes, fungus 

on.386 

Kunatorium monticola 
(E. petiolare) .. .. 380 

Euphorbia splcmlens .. 380 

Ferns .381 

Fern spores, sowing .. 384 
Figs growing too 

strongly.376 

Figs in pots .. .. 384 

Flower - seeds, home- 
gathered .. .. 383 

I Forget-me-nots .. .. 333 

Fruit .375 

| Fruit garden .. 385 

i Gaillanlias and Auri- 
1 culas .332 


Garden annuals .. 382 

Garden diary, extracts 
f roni a .. .. 335 

Garden work .. .. 3<4 

Godctia Crimson King 333 

Grapes keeping .. .. 376 

Greenhouse notes .. 380 

Humcaclegans .. ..331 

Indoor planus .. .. 330 

Lantantu*.386 

Larch trees .. .. 386 

Ijiiw anil custom .. 383 

Lettuce.374 

Mushroom-beds, open- 

air .373 

Mushrooms, growing .. 37 4 
Narcissi under Elder .. 382 
Narcissus pocticus The 

Bride.383 

Onion crop, the.. .. 374 

Onion-fly. the .. .. 373 

Orchard-house .. ..381 


Orange Ball-tree (Budd¬ 
leia globosa), the .. 380 
Outdoor garden .. .. 384 

Outdoor plants .. .. 381 

Pansies, Tufted - pre¬ 
paring ground for 

planting.383 

Peach-house, red-spider 


teas.. .. . .. >)ii 

Peas, Sweet, for market 382 
Pelargoniums, Zonal, 
failure of .. 380 

Perennials from seed, 

raising.3S6 

Perennials from seeds.. 334 
Pine-stove, the .. .. 384 

Plants and flowers .. 377 
Plants for rough walls . 333 
Plants, hardy, for in¬ 
door blooming 380 

Plants in the house .. 384 


Plants under Syca¬ 
more .382 

Plumbago, treatment 

of.386 

Plum-trees gumming .. 375 
Potatoes, grub-eaten .. 374 
Primus Pissardi .. 376 

Rose Com tease A, 

Kiusky.377 

Rose Crepuscule.. .. 377 

Rose Debutante .. 386 

Rose Dorothy Perkins 
on poles, trees, etc.'.. 378 
Row Florence Tron 

(Tea) .377 

Rose Mine. Pierre Ogcr 
(Bourbon) .. ..377 

Rose Mrs. Theodore 
Roosevelt .. .. 377 

Rose Paul Lede .. .. 378 

Roses, crimson, for bed¬ 
ding .378 


Roeea .377 

Roses in a London gar¬ 
den .377 

Royal Horticultural 

Society.385 

Scarboro Lily, the .. 3S<> 
Sunflowers, the annual 381 
Tomatoes in cool- 

house .3S4 

Trees and shrubs .. 379 
Vegetable garden .. 385 
Vegetables .. .. 373 

Vino in pot .. .. 376 

Vinery, mildew in 376 

Vine, treatment of .. 376 
Wallflowers, early - 
blooming .. .. 343 

Wasps and fruit crops . . 375 

Week's work, the com¬ 
ing .385 

Window - boxes in au¬ 
tumn .3S4 


VEGETABLES. 


RUNNER BEANS. 

I have been carefully noting the general cha¬ 
racter of the pods of Runner Beans seen in 
our markets and shops, and find in every case 
they are the product of pinched or cUvarf- 
grown plants, as the pods are relatively short, 
curved, and thick. It seems for such reasons 
that growers for market still refrain from 
growing Runner Beane on tall stakes, as is 
done in gardens, hence the public never see 
what may be termed a fair and correct 
sample of Bean pods so produced. A neigh 
hour, having a very email town garden, pur¬ 
chased last spring eome seed of Carter’s new 
Scarlet Runner, which he sowed la it May. 
The pixls resulting so pleased him that he 
brought me a earn pie, very handsome, 
straight, green, clean, tender pods, ranging 
from 9 inches to 10 inches long, and present¬ 
ing a great improvement on the pods pur 
chasable in the markets. Even these pods of 
my neighbour’s are short compared with 
what can be produced from our finest stocks 
of these Beans in private gardens. 

When will market growers take to the 
finest podding varietiei and the be-t form 
of culture, as private gardeners do? Surely 
they can have little conception of the remark¬ 
able cropping properties of tall, well staked 
rc vvA over pinched or stunted rows, or of the 
gieatly enhanced sample produced. 1 have 
so often wished to see these Beans tied in 
bundles as Asparagus is, and sold in single 
pounds or two pounds weight, as the case may 
be. What a gain would result to growers 
and the consumer also! No one seems to 
take to growing the smooth forms of Runners 
for market sale. It is even rarely one sees 
pods of dwarf Runner Beans on sale at all. 
Climbing forms of these Beans, when well 
done, crop wonderfully, the pods being 
long, straight, and clean. There seems to be 
a tradition in market circles that the public 
will have the Scarlet or rough Runner Bean 
only. Possibly that is so, because, thanks to 
our restricted or narrow-minded market 
methods, they can purchase none other. 

A. D. 


THE CELERY FLY. 

DrKLNO early autumn it may be often noticed 
that the leaves of Celery and Parsley have ; 
very withered and blighted appearance; on 
closer examination, it will be found that the 
leaves are much blistered, and on holding 
one up against the light, a grub will be seen 
between the skins of the leaf. This is the 
grub of th<' Celery flv, which lives on the 
softer portions of the inside of the leaf. 
When the grubs are present in numbers, as 
is often the case, the plants are very much 
injured by the loss of so much foliage, and 
become weak, sickly, and stunted. The grubs 
may he found from the middle of June to the 
end of November, and even later, and as 
there are two or more broods of this insect 
during tfre reason, it ig<T^y^psiraj] ,J,lv 
Digitize: b 




the grubs of the first brood should be de¬ 
stroyed, so as to pre\ent, if possible, any 
future generations. It may be done very 
effectually by pinching that part of the leaf 
where the grub is between the finger and 
thumb, or by cutting the infested leaves off 
and burning them. Watering the plants from 
time to time with soapy water is somewhat 
of a preventive. A remedy that has been 
tried and found successful is to water the 
plants with a solution of guano, at the rate of 
1 ounce to a gallon of water. This will kill 
the grubs and stimulate the plants. Apply 
through a fine rosed water-can overnight, 
and wash off in the morning with clean water. 
The chrysalides, being formed in the ground, 
are practically out of reach, while it is hope¬ 
less to make any perceptible reduction in the 
number of flies by catching them. 

Herbert Thackeray. 


OPEN AIR MUSHROOM BEDS. 

Ridge shaped beds, if properly formed and 
attended to, will produce heavy and continu¬ 
ous crops of Mushrooms, and are frequently 
found far more profitable than those located 
in presumably more favourable positions. It 
is almost useless, however, to make the 
attempt in any position much exposed to cold, 
drying winds, or where mice find moles have 
free access to the beds. The latter are 
especially troublesome outside garden walls, 
and their runs are generally taken possession 
of by field mice directly there are any Mush¬ 
rooms to be eaten. The sooner one or more 
of these beds is made the better. For flat 
beds little else but horse-droppings is gener¬ 
ally used, but this would not answer for 
ridge-shaped beds, and very much more short, 
stained straw must be retained when the 
manure is collected and prepared. Fully one 
half of the heap should consist of this stained 
straw, or otherwise the beds will not hold 
together or do well in other respects. 

Pains should he taken in preparing the 
material, frequent turnings inside out being 
necessary to get rid of rank heat and ob¬ 
noxious gases, and if the manure is found to 
be at all dry at any time, gently moisten it 
through a rose pot. moisture being needed 
to promote the requisite steady fermentation 
and decay. Ridge shaped beds are apt to 
heat more strongly than do those flatly 
formed, hence the greater need of prepara¬ 
tion of the materials. The manure, when 
squeezed in the hand, ought to hind together 
somewhat, but if moisture runs out of it, 
then it i.s far too wet, and another spdl of 
fermentation in a conical heap must be 
allowed. A bed may be of any length, but 
should be slightly under 3 feet in width at the 
base, and the same in height, the width of the 
top of the ridge being about 6 inches. The 
material ought to be put together in layers, 
being well shaken out and mixed ns the work 
goes on, and rammed as firmly together ns 
possible ; the sides and ends to be neatly 
combed down, and trial stakes inserted. 

The beds ought not to be covered in any 


way. unless the heat fails to rise in three or 
four days. Should they become very hot. tile 
trial stakes becoming too hot to hold in the 
hand, then ought, deep holes to be made with 
iron rods down through the centre, these not 
being closed till all danger of over heating i.s 
past. When the beat lias declined to about 
80 degs., or when the trial stakes can be com¬ 
fortably borne in the palm of the hand, the 
time has arrived for spawning. Rather large 
lumps of spawn ought to be used, a brick 
lieing only broken up into eight pieces. In¬ 
sert these into shallow holes formed about 
8 inches apart all over the bed with the ex¬ 
ception of the flat top. The spawn will natur¬ 
ally travel upwards, and it is wasteful to in¬ 
sert lumps very near to the top. Do not case 
over with soil too quickly, or till it is seen 
there is no danger of destroying the spawn by 
over heating. Prevent a great drop in the 
temperature by covering the beds with 
6 inches or more of strawy litter. 


AUTUMN GIANT CAULIFLOWER. 
This has been so frequently recommended 
that it seems but a repetition to write much 
in its favour, but, having just now such a 
good supply of its large, snowywhite heads, 
must be my excuse for again eallirTg attention 
to it. It is doubtful whether any other 
variety can equal it for use during the latter 
half of August right into December, if the 
frost does not mar its beauty. I have heard 
it said Cauliflower is not wanted while Peas 
are in season. This is an absurd argument, 
as few would like to be kept on Peas every 
day from early June to November ; therefore, 
it is the kitchen gardener’s duty to grow ns 
many choice vegetables as he possibly can, 
although Peas may be the favoured dish with 
the many. To grow Cauliflower really well 
during the summer the ground must be deeply 
dug and well manured. There is no need to 
sow under glass to get a supply of heads dur¬ 
ing the latter part of August and onwards. 
Sow early in March, choosing a warm bor¬ 
der ; but if birds are troublesome as the tiny 
seedlings peep above ground, dust with lime 
and soot, to prevent slugs devouring them, 
and should the weather be very dry. water 
now and then, 60 that the plants ore kept 
growing. Watering is best done in the morn¬ 
ing, as the nights often turn very cold, and 
sometimes frosty. Prick out the plants 
4 inches to 6 inches apart when big enough to 
conveniently handle, water if the soil is dry, 
and keep slugs at a distance as before, finally 
planting out 2 feet apart each way before 
they become overcrowded. Examine closely 
all plants as you lift them, discarding any 
that appear likely to become button-hearted, 
or, in other words, go blind. 

J. Mayne. 


The Onion-fly.— Perhaps my success 
against the ravages of above pest may be of 
value to “ Cleraen^.|” Haying, like him, lost 
my wjiole crop three years ago. I made up 
my mind to have a fight for it. As soon as 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


























371 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


September 14, 1907 


I had cleared off what they had left, I gave 
the ground a good supply of manure, with 
all the soot 1 could get; this 1 delved in, 
leaving the ground rough and open for any 
frost during the winter. Throughout the 
winter any soot from the kitchen was thrown 
over the bed. Early in the spring, long be¬ 
fore I think about trying to sow any other 
seed, I get in my Onions; this, I think, is the 
maiu point in my success, as my plants have 
been too strong for the grub to make any 
headway. East year my seed lay a fortnight 
under a coat of snow, and this year it stood 
a pretty hard frost. I sow the seed rather 
thickly, and thin out when the young Onions 
can be used. When finishing the bed 1 use 
soot and soil in equal parts for atop-dressing. 
—James Low, Prrfh. 


PEAS. 

It is some years since we had such a con¬ 
tinuous supply of Peas as during the present 
season, and it- is reasonable to assume that 
the majority of your readers who possess a 
garden can likewise chronicle similar favour¬ 
able results. The early crops were long in 
filling up their pods quite a fortnight later 
than in normal seasons -and the compara¬ 
tively cool days, with frequent showers, 
tended to keep the plants growing, and that 
dreaded pest, tlie tiny thrips. could not gain a 
footing. Late rows of Autocrat look very 
promising. These have been well watered at 
the root, and now (the first week iti Septem¬ 
ber) we are gathering a qiymtity every other 
day or so of Chelsoniau and Main Crop. 
Daisy, sown on July 12th, does not, as yet, 
make much headway. This Pea seems to 
stand still, as it were, for some weeks, even 
when sown early in spring, but that it is a 
first class variety few will deny, so that vve 
quite expect to have several gatherings dur¬ 
ing October, provided we get suitable 
weather. It is a recognised fact that all 
varieties of Peas do not suit all soils; there¬ 
fore, it is wise to give the cream of them a 
trial, and stick to those that do best. Twice 
or so a week during dry weather late Peas 
demand much attention in the matter of 
heavy rout waterings, containing some 
manurial agent, if possible. And then there 
are the horrid tits and sparrows to battle 
with in most gardens. These ruin the pods, 
unless nets are put on to keep them out. 
Even then the tils get in. unless a \ inch mesh 
is used. Nets are a nuisance on Pea-stakes, 
as they tear them to pieces when being lifted 
off ami on.* Nets also cripple the haulm, and 
more or less exclude sun and air. 

East Devon. 


THE UNION CHOP. 


I see a great many plants have run to flower 
in my spring sown bed. Is this general? 
Such a thing has never occurred here, to my 
knowledge, before, hut I see the same tiling 
in the Mangold fields, so I conclude it must 
be on account of the cold and comparatively 
sunless summer. These have not bulbed, so 
will lie worthless, and should he thrown aside 
when lifting the stock, which is quite ready 
in most localities, and, at the time of writing, 
the weather has changed for the better. Pull 
up the Onions carefully and lav them out 
singly after denning the ground of any weeds. 
After lying a few clays they should he turned 
over, when within a week, provided the 
bright, dry weather continues, the stock 
should be got under cover, the cleaning off 
and stringing to be attended to later, when 
the rain prevents any outside work heing 
done. Ailsa Craig. Cranstm's Excelsior. 
Main Crop, and Bedfordshire Champion have 
matured good bulbs, and. if harvested right, 
should keep well. The autumn sown varie¬ 
ties arc under cover bv now. and as these are 
not long keepers they should be used up first. 
Some two varieties (Ailsa Craig and Cran¬ 
ston’s Excelsior) sown under glass in early 
spring and duly planted out, remain quite 
green now (the last week in August), but the 
crop is not so heavy as that from seeds sown 
direct, outside the first week in March. It is 


too late to write about sowing the Tripoli sec¬ 
tion. although 1 find the first few days of Sep¬ 


tember quite early 
part of the county 

Digit 


enough to 
Sown m 


sow in this 
rlier, the 




greater part of the plants runs to flower, and 
is useless, but in less-favoured localities and 
on retentive soils the middle of August is 
quite late enough, as the plants make less 
headway during the following month. 

East Devon. 


NOTES AND IfEPLIES. 

Growing Mushrooms—I should feel much 
obliged if you would kindly give me the following in¬ 
formation regarding the cultivation of Mushrooms: — 
(1) 1 wish to grow them, if possible, in the open, 
not under cover of any frame or house—1 suppose this 
can he done without difficulty? (2) I understand the 
spawn is irreparably damaged if it gets wet. Flow, 
tuen, must 1 protect my Mushrooms from the rain, 
for even with a covering of litter 1 should think they 
would get wet? (3) 1 wish to begin with a bed 
about 4 feet by 5 feet. How much spawn would be 
required for this size of bed? (4) If so grown (out¬ 
side), how long should it be before I get a crop- 
will they be produced this year or shall 1 have to 
wait for next? (5) How long does one sowing of 
spawn last—that is, how often should spawn he 
planted—and will it require fresh manure or will the 
old manure do? It will do if you kindly give me this 
information as per the number of my queries, as 1 
have a copy.— Eureka. 

[(1) Yes, Mushrooms may be grown success¬ 
fully outdoors, provided you choose a position 
for making the beds which is sheltered from 
the north and east, cold winds very soon 
causing the beds to lose heat, and once this 
takes place Mushrooms may be looked for in 
vain. (2) The. usual practice is to cover the 
beds with stable litter, and during the late 
autumn, winter, and early spring months, an 
additional covering, in the shape of tarpau¬ 
lins or dressed canvas covers, which are 
made specially for the purpose, are made use 
of both to conserve warmth and to keep the 
beds dry. Should the beds once get soaked 
with cold rain or snow-water, they arc practi¬ 
cally ruined. (3) You may make the bed the 
size you mention, if you wish, but it would 
be better made in the shape of a ridge 3 feet 
in width and the same in height. The ridge 
should take the shape of an inverted letter V, 
only instead of finishing off with a sharp ridge 
at the apex, round it off somewhat. The 
length will depend on the quantity of material 
you have on hand, and if you have a suf¬ 
ficiency, we should advise you to make it of a 
length not less than 9 feet. A bed of less 
dimensions than this is not likely to main¬ 
tain its heat or to remain in bearing for anv 
length of time. A bed of the size we suggest 
would require half a bushel of good sound 
spawn. (4) If the manure hus been properly 
prepared, and bed made up as it should be, 
you may, provided good spawn is used, ex¬ 
pect to see Mushrooms in from six to eight 
weeks from the time of spawning. A well 
managed Mushroom bed will continue to yield 
from two to three months. If excessively 
cold weather should prevail, the beds cense 
to bear, or remain practically at a standstill 
Tor the time being. (5) You will require fresh 
manure and fresh spawn for each bed you 
make up, as belli spawn and manure become 
exhausted by the time the bed ceases to bear. 
Sometimes it is permissible to use the old 
manure to mix with a mass of new, when the 
latter is fresh from the stable, but, ns a rule, 
it is far the best policy to construct each bed 
with quite fresh materials. You would find a 
pamphlet on Mushroom growing by John E. 
Barter (published by J. F. Barter, Ltd., 
Napier-road, Wembley, R.S.O., Middlesex, 
price Is. 2d.), very useful.] 

Grub eaten Potatoes. — I have in my garden a 
most poisonous and destructive insect, which bores 
and eats eight out of ten of my Potatoes. We can¬ 
not eat them, and if one gets in the cooking among 
the rest it spoils the whole lot. I send you by post, 
a sample, and I want you to tell me what to do to 
clear my garden of them? The soil is a heavy clay, 
and comprises about GO perches. The garden was a 
most productive one, but it is no good for Potatoes 
now. —POTATO-ORl’B. 

[Really, the pest which has so eaten into 
your Potatoes is not a grub, but a small 
black slug, of which several were found in 
the tuber sent. It. is evident your soil has 
l>ecoine greatly infested with these slugs, and 
the cool, damp summer has helped them to 
increase. The ground in which the Potatoes 
are now growing should, so soon as the crop 
is lifted, be at. once dressed with gas-lime, 
at the rate of one bushel per rod—rather a 
strong dose, but your circumstances need it. 
Spread it about, evenly, let it lie exposed to 
the air for a month, then further break it up 
and spread it and dig it in. If you plant 


Potatoes in other soil next rear, open broad 
furrows and give to each a heavy dusting of 
lime and soot before covering them in. Use 
lime and soot freely on all your ground.] 

Cabbage root club.—I should be much obliged if 
you would advise me what to do to prevent tub 
bages. Cauliflowers, and other green stuff from 
clubbing? I have bad the ground well dressed with 
lime for two years running, but the plants put in 
last month are nearly all badly affected.—W, P. 

[This disease in all members of the Cab¬ 
bage family, including Turnips, is sometimes 
the produce of a fungus, and at other times of 
a maggot. Generally, it makes its first ap¬ 
pearance in the seed-bed, and if when plants 
are lifted the roots are carefully examined, 
then any swellings seen on them should be 
neatly pared off before being replanted. Still 
further, it is a good plan to have in a pail a 
thick, pasty substance, composed of soapy - 
water, soot, sulphur, and for each pailful a 
teacupful of paraffin, all well mixed. Into 
this mixture dip and well turn round two or 
three times each handful of, say, twenty or 
so of plants, thoroughly coating the roots, 
then dusting with dry Jime. and at once 
planting them. That should save the plants 
from any further attack from the maggot, if 
the soil where planted is in any way infested 
with that pest. If there be fear that harm 
may yet follow', obtain gas-lime, and strew 
some thinly along between the rows, but not 
allowing it to touch the leaves. Hoe that 
well in, and a»s its chemical elements are 
washed into the ground those should kill all 
insects in it. The other form of club, or 
Plasmodium, is a fungus, and also usually 
affects the young plants in the seed-bed first. 
Where it is proposed to plant. Cabbages. 
Cauliflowers, or others of the family, the best 
course is to give a dressing to the ground 
several weeks before planting of three-fourths 
of a bushel of gas-lime per rod, spreading it 
over the ground, letting it lie exposed for 
three or four weeks, then digging it in. In 
this case also, besides looking closely at tho 
roots oL the young plants, it is wise to treat 
them before planting the same as advised 
above for maggot attacks. This disease is 
known as slime fungus. A free use of com¬ 
mon lime helps to destroy it also.] 

Kidney Beans.— These were late in pod¬ 
ding, and prices have been welL maintained 
up to the end of August, a period in some 
seasons when there is practically no market 
for them. Although tho waning summer lias 
been dull and showery, the rainfall has been 
far from heavy, therefore, it is good advice to 
give amateurs, and, it may be, others as well, 
to keep the rows well supplied with water at 
the root so long as the weather remains as 
mentioned above. Another important point 
too frequently overlooked is in allowing 
Beans to mature for seed purposes on all the 
rows. Far better allow one, or part of a row. 
to supply these, and keep all pods gathered 
as soon as they become fit on the remaining 
plant. The dwarf varieties have borne good 
crops, and should be more often sown to sup¬ 
ply first pickings. This may be partly 
accounted for by their heing nearer the 
ground and not catching the wind as taller 
varieties do—at any rate, they always supply 
the first dish, if both are sown the same day. 
With a hot. September the plants will furnish 
a host of Beans, and. if periodically watered, 
as advised, the supply will continue until 
frost cuts them down.— Devonian. 

Lettuce.— This has been a good season for 
these, few, if any, running to flower with me, 
the cool nights during the past summer being 
all in favour of quick growth. Get out plenty 
of plants from July sowings as soon as fit to 
handle, drawing shallow trenches and well 
watering the same a few hours previous to 
planting, as well as the seed lines before lift¬ 
ing. Hicks’ Hardy White Cos stands the best 
in this class, while Stanstead Park and Lee’s 
Hardy Green are very satisfactory among 
Cabbage varieties. All the Year Round, un¬ 
fortunately. does not stand much hard frost, 
but it is still one of the very best for early 
spring and summer U 60 , producing large, solid 
heads, that take a deal of beating.—J. M. 


Index to Volume XXVIII.— The binding covers 
(price Is. fid. each, post, free, Is. 9d.) and Index (3d., 
post free, 3Jd.) for Volume XXVIII. arc now ready, 
and may he had of all newsagents, or of the Pub¬ 
lisher, post free, 2e. for the two; 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



September 14, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


375 


FRUIT. 

FRUITING CRABS. 

The number of these is increasing with the 
newer kinds from America, where the Crab 
is much grown for its hardiness, and much 
has been done to improve it by crossing with i 
the smaller orchard Apples. Some of the j 
best English Crabs were raised in the same 
way many years ago by crossing with the 
Devonshire Quarrenden, and fine trees from 
this strain may still be seen in old Kentish 
gardens. Of those grown in this country the 
lollowing are the best: — 

The Dartmouth has large fruits of intense 
crimson, with a Plum like bloom, and so 
freely borne that the trees are often weighed 
down. 

John Downie is of a graceful, yet sturdy, 
growth, with large orange-yellow' fruits, red¬ 
dening in the sun, and clustered prettily 
along the stems. Cut branches are fine for 
decoration, and, as this kind flowers late, the 
crop is seldom spoiled by frost. The 
Fairy Crab, like a miniature Apple, is 
larger than most. Its fruits are of a lemon 
colour, prettily flushed, and birds have such 
a liking for it as often to spoil the crop, if 
left too long. 


Scarlet Siberian Crab (syn. Cherry 
Apple) is grown in several varieties, with 
fruits early, late, and of different sizes. 
Cherry-like, they are borne in clusters upon 
long stalks during September, with juicy flesh 
and pleasant acid flavour ; the trees are of 
pretty open form, blit liable to mildew. The 
best variety is Cheats’ Scarlet Siberian, with 
fruits or fine colour and very numerous, upon 
r. tree of upright growth and better foliage. 
The 

Tartarian or Yellow Siberian Crab 
(here figured) makes a pretty tree with 
medium fruits of light yellow and good in 
contrast. These tw r o Siberian forms gave the 
start for all the garden varieties. The 

Orange Crab, raised by Saltmareh, of 
Colchester, bears bright yellow fruits larger 
than the Siberian, while the new Oblong 
Crab is a form of this with long-shaped 
scented fruits of good flavour. 

Transparent is an old kind making a fine 
tree, with fruits of clear yellow flushing in 
the sun. 

Transcendent is a newer American kind, 
with large red and yellow fruits. 

Montreal Beauty (or Mammoth Crab) is 
one of the older American kinds, as is also 
Coral, a pretty tree in form and in fruit — 
these of medium size, with a strong Quince 
smell. Useful as a later sort is the 

Lady Crab, with reddish fruits ofl good 

Digitized by GOOgle 


size and quality, speckled with white dots. 
Still later is 

Chicago, with yellow fruits striped with 
rose upon the sunny side. 

Other pretty kinds are Paul’s Imperial, 
raised at Waltham Cross; and Malakovna, 
a little-known variety, very good in dwarf 
form, with large, bright scarlet fruits. 


WASPS AND FRUIT CROPS. 

Can anyone tell me of a remedy to keep wasps from 
fruit-trees? —B. A. M. 

[One of the greater banes of the summer 
fruit crop, no doubt, is found in Avasps, which 
appear in greater or lesser force according as 
the weather and season afTeet them. Some¬ 
times they are so numerous and persistent in 
their attax-k.s on ripening fruits that the crops 
suffer considerable loss in value and bulk. 
The trouble to so many ow ners is how r to com¬ 
bat these summer pests effectively and with 
despatch. Certainty the task is not always one 
which satisfies, even when what may seem 
practical remedies are applied. Bottles half- 
filled with sweetened beer serve to attract 
and destroy many, when these are placed near 
or among the trees having ripe fruit. Honey 
and water will serve the yme purpose; hut 
these devices are not of themselves sufficient 
when resolute attacks are made. Scott’s 


wasp destroyer, an old and valuable remedy, 
lias been ol great service in some years, ap¬ 
plied to damaged fruits, hut the influence and 
purpose of this preparation is not uniform 
from year to year. We have, however, 
usually found that, by its use, wasps have 
been kept clear of choice wall fruits in some 
seasons quite easily, when a little of this 
poisonous bait is placed on the most damaged 
of the fruits each morning. In years when 
Scott’s fails in its purpose, Davis’s, another 
similar preparation, is procured, and almost 
invariably, when one tails, the other suc¬ 
ceeds. For this reason we usually provide a 
bottle of each kind, so that no delay is per¬ 
mitted in dealing with their variable attitude. 
It is advisable, when wasps are abundant, to 
seek for their nests, and deal with them 
there. Gunpowder and sulphur squibs are 
an old-fashioned remedy for destroying wasps’ 
nests, which will suffocate them quickly. 
Gas tar poured in the mouth of the nest, 
too, will destroy; but a more easily applied, 
and at the same time trustworthy, remedy 
is cyanide of potassium. This can be had in 
lump or granulated form, and, when dis¬ 
solved —say. £ ounce in a pint of warm water 
—will have a magical influence on wasps. 
About a tablespoonful of this cyanide solu¬ 
tion suffices for each nest when poured well 
into the mouth or entrance. It should 
he remembered that this is a deadly poison, 


requiring care in its preparation and appli¬ 
cation. We have always found the liquid 
preparation the most effective; but execu¬ 
tion can he wrought by applying the cyanide 
in its natural state, the granulated crystals 
being the better for use in a dry state. In 
years when wasps have been unusually nume¬ 
rous, w’e have almost despaired in the work 
of nest searcli, because their destruction by 
means of this vaporous poison seemed to have 
no effect in lessening their numbers or their 
fruit-destroying propensities. This, however, 
cannot he so in reality, because, by the de¬ 
struction of large, active nests, there must, 
of necessity he fewer remaining to continue 
the consumption of choice fruits. 

From the fact that both Scott’s and Davis’s 
wasp-destroyers are poisonous, it n con¬ 
sidered expedient to first remove from the 
tree any fruit that is damaged, and which is 
employed for this poison application. If they 
are not removed from their position on the 
trees, some means of identifying these poi¬ 
soned fruits should he made, to prevent their 
use by any accidental means. I P is, however, 
advisable that they be placed near to the 
trees, for the wasps instinctively locate those 
bearing attractive fruits, and are not easily 
drawn away by tempting baits. If just such 
ordinary care as this is exercised, no danger 
need ho apprehended, nor fear of taint being 
communicated to other and sound fruits. We 
strongly recommend one or both of these old- 
established remedies to anyone having choice 
fruit of any kind jeopardised by wasp visita¬ 
tions. In the vinery or Peach house they are 
equally valuable, and, should an attack be 
made on ripe Grapes, serious liavoe is soon 
wrought, unless prompt measures are taken 
to repress them. Applied each morning bv 
means of a pointed stick to those berries 
which are partially eaten, we have succeeded 
in repressing their insidious attempts on 
monopolising the Grape crop. Some go the 
length of fixing muslin over each ventilator of 
their vinery roofs in order to keep out at¬ 
tacking wasps, which answers the purpose 
well, if carefully fixed, so that no possible 
means of ingress is permitted. By the aid of 
a bottle of Davis’s or Scott’s, costing each 
Is. Gd., we have effected the same ends quite 
easily. In some years wasps are much less 
demonstrative than in others, and one or two 
applications of these poisons are found to 
last the season through. Any chemist or 
seedsman can supply these chemical prepara¬ 
tions. Needless to say, these preventive 
means are only possible of application in 
limited areas as effecting fruit protection, 
such as choice Avail or other small trees, and 
glass-grown fruits. Beyond these, bottle- 
baits only are convenient; hut with special 
samples of choice fruit, muslin or the spe¬ 
cially registered fruit-bags made and sold for 
the purpose, securely enclosing individual 
specimens, are Avell Avorth the cost and labour 
involved. Choice Pears and Plums are thus 
made proof against birds and wasps, and may 
he left on the trees much later than is usually 
done.] 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Plum trees gumming. Kindly tell me the cause 
of ami cure for gummiiii: in Plums and Damsons? 
My trees appear very healthy, hut much of the fruit 
is spoilt by t he pum on it. Hromi.ky. 

[The production of gum bv Plums, such ns 
you find on your trees and fruits, is character¬ 
istic of all stone fruits, hut generally with 
others in a less degree. Gum, or extrava- 
sated sap, as it is called, is evidence of too 
great sap flow greater, indeed, than the tree 
can fully utilise, or of some injury or con¬ 
traction of the cellular tissue of the 
tree, or of some fungoid attack creat¬ 
ing what is called* guminosis. A black 
mould, Cladosporum, finds entrance to the 
wood through wounds or cracks in it, and 
thus begins its Avork of creating disease, evi¬ 
dence of which is gumming. Which may be 
the primary cause in your case it is not pos¬ 
sible to say. If there is a plethora of sap in 
tiie trees, then root action is too great, and 
only root pruning during the winter will re¬ 
duce that. Again, it may result from the 
roots having gone deep into poor or sour soil, 
and the gumming is the product of imperfect 
or diseased sap thus created. Root pruning, 
thoij^y^jity^^yeriDg all doAvnw urej roots, ^isjthe 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 






376 


GARDENING ILL VST RATED. 


6epJ EJIBER 14, 1907 


best remedy in that case. If that be done, 
open a trench round each tree 4 feet or so 
from the steins. Let the trench be 2 feet 
wide, and as deep. Cut off close every root 
found, then gradually grub out the soil so far 
as possible all round beneath the roots, and 
then find all downward ones. Those should 
be cut clean off with the aid of a broad, sharp 
chisel fixed to the end of a long, stout handle. 
When that is done, force top sweet soil in 
beneath the ball, and fill up the trench with 
top soil also—not the old soil. Fork off the 
top soil several inches deep over the roots, 
and replace with fresh soil from the vegetable 
quarters, adding to it a pint of basic slag, to 
gnvduully furnish phosphates. By adopting 
such drastic action you may not only stop 
gumming, but possibly also the death of the 
trees, for gumming is an indication of physi¬ 
cal disease or weakness.] 

Vine in pot — I have a Black Crape or fruit 
inn-cane in a large pot. 1 have eight large bunches 
of Crapes that are now ready to cut, and are in 
capital condition. 1 stopped each shoot that had 
fruit on at the second leaf. Will these shoots bear 
the fruit next season, and what pruning will they 
require? The Vine has made one long shoot 10 feet 
long. Will this require pruning, and to what extent? 
There are four other shoots, each about 5 feet long— 
what pruning will they require? 1 am going to take 
the Vine out of the pot and plant in a properly 
made border inside the greenhouse, which is heated 
with 4-inch hot-water pipes. Name of Vine is Appley 
Towers.—N F.WSAGKNT. 

[Vines grown in pots are seldom of any use 
the second year, and we should prefer see¬ 
ing you are going to construct a proper 
border- to plant a new cane rather than run 
the risk of failure with this one. Still, if you 
so wish, you may give it a trial, and, with re¬ 
gard to the pruning of the side shoots 
technically termed laterals in this case cut 
them back, if the buds are plump and sound, 
to two buds. This will then transform them 
into what are known ns spurs, from which 
shoots will issue another season and bear 
fruit. The long shoot you mention is, we 
take it, an extension of the main rod or cane. 
If thoroughly ripened, leave it from 5 feet 
to 6 feet in length ; but, if not, 3 feet to 4 feet 
will suffice. l)o the 5-feet shoots you name 
originate on this same long shoot? Because, 
if they do, cut them clean away, so that the 
energies of the Vine may be concentrated in 
the main rod. On the other hand, should 
they issue from the older or lower portion of 
the Vine, cut them back to two buds, to form 
fruiting spurs for next season.] 

Prunus Pissardi — I shall lie glad to know if 
the fruit of Prunus Pissardi is edible or not? A tree 
which I have at my home in Surrey has fruit, hut 
nobody seems to know much about it .- G. K. 

[Prunus Pissardi is a variety of P. Cerasi 
fora (the Myrobalan Plum), and known as 1*. 
C-erasifera var. atropurpurea. It fruits in 
favourable seasons, the fruits being of the 
same colour as the leaves, even when young. 
The fruits are very pretty, but the flavour, 
we find, is very poor.] 

Red spider in Peach house —1 have been un¬ 
able, so fur, to keep down rod spider in my Peach- 
house this summer, notwithstanding syringing daily 
the foliage and watering the roots. 1 have tried a 
solution of soft-soap, soda, and sulphur, as recom¬ 
mended, hut llnd the white paint gets so discoloured 
I am loth to continue the mixture. Will you, there¬ 
fore, kindly recommend something that does not hurt 
the white paint? Further, what had best be done 
after the leaves have all fallen to prevent red-spider 
in the future? Last October 1 painted thoroughly 
inside and out the Peach-house, white-washed the 
walls, etc., and painted the trees with Gisliurst com¬ 
pound. but. apparently, to no effect. Do you recom¬ 
mend repeating this latter again or spraying with 
the caustic alkali solution?—D evon. 

[The dull, sunless season having necessi¬ 
tated the employment of more fire-heat than 
usual, red-spider lias, iu consequence, been 
very much in evidence. The wash you men¬ 
tion, like sulphide of potassium, does dis¬ 
colour the paint wherever it touches it. but 
if you omit the soda and use nothing but 
sulphur and soft soap you would find it harm¬ 
less, as far as the paint is concerned. This 
should also kill off the red-spider, if both 
sides of the leaves are thoroughly wetted with 
the mixture. We advise you to try it again, 
first mixing the soft soap and sulphur inti 
mutely together in a little hot water; 4 oz. 
soap to a good double handful of sulphur, 
and dilute afterwards to two gallons, ami 
apply with a syringe. Should this be non- 
effective. syringe with a solution of XL All 
insecticide, direel ionjjfor which yon will find 

Google 


on the bottle. In the winter spray the trees 
with caustic alkali solution, and wash stems 
and branches with the same. If you pur¬ 
chase the chemicals from a sundriesman, you 
will see directions how to mix it on the tin, 
and the strength at which to apply it to 
Peach-trees also.] 

Mildew In vinery. -For the fir?t time for many 
years all my Vines, in a cool greenhouse, are suffer¬ 
ing from mildew. I have cut off all the bunches of 
Grapes, and propose to deal with the rods later on, 
when the leaves are off. In the meantime, can I do 
anything at present in the way of syringing the 
foliage, which shows signs of the mildew?—S havio. 

[At present you cannot do better than 
dredge flowers of sulphur on the upper and 
under surfaces of tin* leaves, after lowing 
damped them with a syringe. You may wash 
the sulphur off in three or four days’ time, 
and should you still find traces of mildew, 
repeat the sulphuring. An ordinary flour 
dredge, which can be bought for a few pence, 
is as useful a contrivance for applying the 
sulphur with as you can have. A more drastic 
remedy would be sulphide of potassium or 
liver of sulphur. Two ounces of this dis¬ 
solved in two to three gallons of water, in 
which a little soft soap (2 oz.) has been 
previously dissolved, will, if syringed on both 
surfaces of all th# leaves, instantly destroy 
the mildew. This you can obtain at a cheap 
rate at a chemist’s, the only objection to its 
use being that it discolours the paint on the 
woodwork of the house if wetted w ith it. With 
care this can, however, be avoided.] 

Pigs growing too strongly I have four or 
live very large Fig-trees on south walls. This year 
they are without any fruit at all on them, and are 
ju t a green thick mass projecting from the walls, 
they are all in different parts of the gardens. How 
shouid they be pruned, and should not whole 
branches be cut right out? Also, they have such a 
lot of small bushy growths at the bottom of the 
main stem, like suckers. Three years ago most of 
the trees were covered with fruit, and they looked as 
though they had not been pruned or touched for 
many years.—M uriel. 

[From what you say, it is quite evident that 
the roots of your Fig trees have got out of 
bounds. Your best course will be to open 
a trench at from 3 feet to 4 feet from the stem 
as soon as the trees shed their foliage. This 
trench should be 1 foot in width, to admit of 
the work being done conveniently and expe¬ 
ditiously, and be carried to a depth of from 
2 feet to 3 feet, so that the soil can be cut 
away from under the base of the ball, tunnel¬ 
ling under one half of the ball at a time, so 
that there shall be no accident. In the dig¬ 
ging of the trench cut all roots found clean 
away, and when the one half of the ball has 
been exposed in the manner described, fill iu 
with brickbats and mortar-rubble, placing 
this in layers and ramming as firmly as pos¬ 
sible to get it. The brick rubble, being of a 
dry nature, aiul possessing no munuri'al con¬ 
stituent, will have a direct tendency to cheek 
exuberant root growth iu future, and being, 
moreover, 1 foot in thickness, any roots that 
may penetrate will he of a fibrous nature only 
for some time to come. The best way, of 
course, iu dealing with Fig trees is to enclose 
their roots in a kind of brick tank, 3 feet to 
4 feet square, concreting the bottom and 
building the sides with bricks laid in cement, 
ami making provision for the outlet of water 
at one corner into a rubble drain. If the 
above work is carried out early this winter, 
you may leave the pruning until the spring, 
when the growths on the wall-trained tree 
may be thinned out, cutting away all the 
weakest and retaining those well furnished 
with embryo fruits, which will be plainly 
visible at that date. Just sufficient wood 
should he laid in to furnish the wall, and no 
more. Should next season prove a dry one, 
pay particular attention to root watering, 
and when the fruits are swelling towards 
maturity give liquid-manure weekly; or. 
failing this, dissolve 2 oz. of Peruvian guano 
in each gallon of water required. Thin out 
the shoots you refer to ns suckers, and nail 
a few of the strongest to the wall, to take the 
place in time of any old branches that you 
may desire to cut out.] 

Grapes keeping 1 should be very grateful for 
your advice in the following ease: I have a small 
vinery, a lean-to, ‘in feet by II reel, and ;* feet 
fi inches hitch at back, to 3 fret at front, faring a 
little east of south. The Vines go through to out¬ 
side. There is a border at hack of house, inside, 
against hack wall, 3 feet wide. The vinery has no 
heat, and I am anxious to have Grapes that will 


hunt? without mildewing till beginning of November, 
as I am* always away from home from August to end 
October. Is this possible? If so, what Vines would 
you recommend? I should like two Muscats and two 
not Muscats. Could I have, in the back border, 
Peaches that would come on quite early June or early 
July, and would they get sun enough? At present 
time I have two Black Hamburgh, two White Buck- 
land Sweetwater in the house, but they are always 
ripe too early, and will not hang later than first week 
in October, which is of no use to me. My gardener 
tells me that without heat no Orape9 will hang in the 
house so long as first week in November without 
damping off, aa the very late sorts would not ripen 
without heat. Is this the case? If I must hu\e 
heat, are any of those oil heating apparatuses suit¬ 
able, and could you name one? What Peaches would 
you recommend for the inside of the house it would 
take to easily? Kindly bear in mind that this is n 
cold county and damp. We are 400 feet above sea 
level, on Cotswold Hills.—L ancer. 

[As your vinery is unheated it would be 
next to useless to attempt growing late varie¬ 
ties of Grapes in it, as the berries would never 
colour and mature properly, neither would 
they keep without the aid of artificial heat. 
We also much regret being unable to hold 
out any hopes of your successfully obtaining 
the needful amount of warmth with the aid 
of an oil stove. Nothing else but a proper 
hot water apparatus would suffice. As port¬ 
able boilers are now obtainable at a cheap 
rate, and the quantity of piping requisite for 
heating a house of the dimensions you men¬ 
tion not being great, we strongly urge you to 
heat- the vinery in this way. Once fixed, the 
working expenses for such an apparatus 
would not be great, as there would be occa¬ 
sions when it would not be required to be in 
use. On applying to a hot water engineer, 
and supplying him with particulars of the 
size of the house, and the purpose tho heat is 
required for, he will at once be iu a position 
to give you an estimate for the apparatus 
complete. Either Black Alicante or Appley 
Towers would form a good companion to the 
White Muscats, and ripen with them. Poaches 
would not succeed in the narrow border at 
the back of the house, but you can, if you 
wish, plant Vines to cover it, to give you 
Grapes till such time as the roof would be¬ 
come covered with the permanent Vines. 
Tomatoes would also succeed on the back wall 
for the first two seasons. After this, there 
would be too much shade. If you have much 
call for Smilax in the autumn months, the 
narrow border would he a good place in which 
to grow it. after you root out the temporary 
Vines we recommended you to plant. In 
sending queries in future kindly write on one 
side of the paper only.] < 

Treatment of Vine I have a Mudrc sfleld 
Court Vine, two years old, planted in an inside 
border. It has bud one bunch of Grapes on it. I 
took it off. as it came on a shoot underneath the 
staging. The Vine has made several long shoots, 
which are up to the ridge of the greenhouse, ami 
look very healthy. Do these require any pruning?— 
Newsagent. 

[We should have been able to have answered 
this query more explicitly bad you stated 
how this Vine was pruned last winter. Assum¬ 
ing the rod, or Vine, was left 6 feet iu length, 
and if these shoots which we take to be laterals 
issue at intervals from it, they will need cut¬ 
ting back to two buds this coming winter to 
form spurs. These should fruit next season. 
These laterals would have been better had 
they been stopped when about 2 feet in 
length. This would have been the means of 
assisting the base buds on the laterals to have 
become more fully developed than they will 
be now, and at the same time the main rod 
would have greatly benefited by such a pro¬ 
ceeding. The laterals on a young Vine, 
which eventually become spurs, when pruned 
back, should, as far as possible, be distant 
from each other about 1 foot on either side 
of the main rod. Superfluous growths should 
be pulled clean out. You do not mention 
anything about an extension or leading 
growth on this Vine. If one of the growths 
should really he the extension growth of the 
N ine, treat and prune it as advis’d in Query 
“Vine in pot." You did quite right in dis¬ 
pensing with the fruiting lateral under the 
stage.] 


"The English Flower Garden and Home 
Grounds ’ - Neic Edition, loth, revised, with descrip¬ 
tions of all the best plants , trees, and shrubs, theii 
culture ami arrangement, illustrated on tcoud. Cloth, 
medium Svo, 1~>*.; post free. Ins. 6d. 

•'The English Flower Garden” may also U 
had finely hound in ttW. ; T half vellum, nett. Of 

/vr >> . .ft./v.A . _ 

JNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


D 




September 14, 1907 


377 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 


ROSES. 


ROSE MME. PIERRE OGER (BOURBON). 
The Bourbon Iloses are one of those groups 
that growers of the present day are so apt to 
overlook, but they are a most useful tribe, 
flowering abundantly in the autumn. The old 
Souvenir de Malmaison is one, and we all 
know how good it is, especially in September. 
1 desire to draw attention to Mine. Pierre 
Oger, a Rose that must have escaped the 
notice of most lovers of garden Roses, and 1 
do not remember seeing a bunch of it exhi¬ 
bited. The form is so beautiful, like a large 
Ranunculus, and the colour French-white, the 
inner petals tipped with delicate pink, and 
the outer ones suffused entirely with rich 
pink. It is one of those Roses that cannot be 
accurately described. I should imagine this 
Rose to be a sport from the old Bourbon 
Reine Victoria, for in shape it is identical, 
also in its fine willowy grow ths, which enable 


GAIWEJflNG ILLUSTRATE. 


| fine form, the petals evenly arranged in circu¬ 
lar fashion, rather flat, but very pretty, on 
| account of its open, expansive blossoms. The 
, colour is a buff-white, with apricot shading, 

I deepened considerably as the plants become 
| established, and under glass its buds are 
quite golden in colour. Novelties in the true 
j Teas are not at all plentiful. The days seem 
. gone by when continental raisers used to give 
us three or four good things every year. I 
mean such sterling sorts as Mme. de Watte- 
1 ville, Hon. Edith Gifford, etc.— Roba. 


ROSES IN A LONDON GARDEN. 
The illustration, from a photograph taken 
on the 18th of June last, gives sonic idea 
I how beautiful even a London garden may be 
I made by planting the right sort of Roses. 
The garden is within three miles of the Royal 
Exchange, but, owing largely to its being a 
sunny one, Roses grow well. The Rose on 
the left is Aglaia (the Yellow Rambler). For 
three years after planting I got no bloom, 
but some wonderful shoots, about 12 feet 
| long, were sent up from the base of the plant. 


not easy to surpass, but it is not everyone’s 
Rose, as it is rather inclined to mildew, but 
I this season it has, with many another, been 
! strangely immune from this scourge. 

Rosa. 


ROSE MRS. THEODORE ROOSEVELT, 
j This beautiful American Rose has been intro- 
I duced now' some four years, but it is only 
just finding its way into the show boxes. For 
form it ranks equal to any sort grown. The 
blossoms are, perhaps, rather flat, but that is 
j a welcome change to the globular type. In 
its perfect state a flower of this Rose is equal 
to any Camellia. The colour is that lovely 
blush-pink seen in La Tosca, Viscountess 
| Folkestone, and Augustine Gninoisseau. The 
flowers are inclined to come streaked with 
| ivory-white. The growth is good, and I can 
I thoroughly recommend this variety to the ex- 
| hibitor as well as to those who grow for gar- 
| den decoration. We have now several of this 
I colour in varying forms, so that one may have 
I a bed of one shade yet with several sorts in a 
| bed. For instance. La Tosca would do well 
i for the centre, Pharisaer around it, then a 



Roses in a London garden. From a photograph sent by Mr. E. F. Corley, Stoke Newington, N. 


the variety to be used as a pillar Rose or 
tree-headed standard. 

Although the Hybrid Teas must hold the 
palm for many years to come, It will never 
do to ignore the other tribes which added 
so much to the enjoyment of our gardens in 
bygone days. I love old Roses, even though 
conscious of their defects. There used to be 
an old sort, Baron Gonella by name, which 
was a marvel of colouring, "quaint, if not 
beautiful. This belonged to the Bourbon 
group. Others of this race well worth pre¬ 
serving are Comtesse de Barbantannc, ' 
Acidalie, which makes a fine pillar ; Robusta! 1 
a gorgeous pillar Rose, flowering early, with i 
all the rich colouring of a Louis Van Houtte ; j 
Marie Pare, very dainty; and Gloire des I 
Rosomanes. which, perhaps, should he given a 
group to itself. When this latter can be oh- i 
tained true, its colour is dazzling, and it is 
one of the few good brilliant autumnal 
bloomers. Rosa. 


Rose Comtesse A. Kinsky.— Possibly, some 
niav grow this new Tea Rose good enough for 
exhibition, but 1 rather question whether it 
will ever become more than a garden Rose. 
As such it will be mosL4M*>ful, for it f)as a 
growth as lusty as Mnif. La urban’ . Itl-hifrps 
even more so. Its beai\i£jVdfik<. iujC of 


This was a trial to one’s patience, but the re¬ 
ward in the following years was ample. The 
Rambler covers an arbour 10 feet by 6 feet, 
anil has been a mass of bloom from end of 
May to early July. The Rose on the arch is 
Waltham Climber No. 3, a good grower and 
free summer bloomer. E. F. Corley. 

Stoke Newington , N. 


ROSE CREPUSCULE. 

This exquisite Noisette improves on acquaint¬ 
ance, and it promises to become a very valued 
sort. All Roses with a golden hue find ad¬ 
mirers, and this beautiful sort is no excep¬ 
tion. It possesses many of the charms of 
that somewhat delicate Rose, Ma Capucine ; 
perhaps the orange shading is not flamed so 
much, but Crepuscule has a good growth, 
whereas the older sort has not. For a free¬ 
headed standard, Crepuscule will be very 
beautiful, blooming abundantly, and yielding 
hosts of pretty clusters of about five flowers 
to a cluster. It is the elegant truss of bloom 
that distinguishes this Rose from many others 
of its colour. There is room for plenty of 
novelty in this wav. What a superb Rose 
Mme. Hector Leuilliot is. and what a pity it 
droops its head, for much of its beauty is 
thus lost ! Mme. Pierre Cochet, as a bud, is 


mass of Augustine Guinoisseau and Viscoun¬ 
tess Folkestone, and, finally, the variety 
under notice. W. X. 


ROSE FLORENCE TRON(TEA). 

M. Nabonnand has added one more beautiful 
variety to the long list of Roses he has given 
us, and which bids fair to become a favourite 
on account of its charming colour. In some 
respects it reminds one of the Hybrid Tea 
Furbenkonigin, but the inside of the reflexed 
l>etals has more of the silvcrv-whiteness, 
whilst the backs of the petals—even those in 
the centre of the flower are a Tieh glowing 
pink, such as we have in Mrs. W. J. Grant. 
The form of the flower is lovely, the petals 
arranged in that pretty circular form that 
makes some of the Teas so interesting. It 
seems a splendid grower, and should prove a 
most useful garden Row. It is said to be 
the result of a cross between Albert Stopford 
and Tillier. 

M. Nabonnand has, unquestionably, a 
splendid strain of seedlings. Doubtless, 
many are produced from wed sown promis¬ 
cuously, but most of lup|,intr,od net ions have 
such a splendid vigour. 

Among Hu* many lovely gems ‘inanating 
from' this source we have ,C[omiesse_ Festetics 
Hamilton, a Rose-of surpassing beaulty and 












378 


GARDENING IL L VST RAT ED. 


SfirTiiMnEp. 14, 1907 


rich iu colour; Frainmelta Nabonnand, a 
.sport, from Papa Gontier, and very sweet- 
scented. General Sehablikine, the variety the 
late Dean Hole was so enamoured with, has 
been supplanted by Albert Stopford. Then 
there is the ever-popular G. Nabonnand, 
probably the loveliest of autumn Roses, and 
to which we owe that delightful gem, Peace. 
Comtesse Panisse is a Rose too good to be 
lost, for its waxy petals make it a very en¬ 
during flower. Francisca Kruger is one of 
our hardiest coppery sorts; Papa Gontier for 
many years was a favourite, but it is a rather 
indifferent grower in some parts. General 
Gallieni should be iu every garden ; LTdeal 
is still unsurpassed in its own particular 
style, and for its unique colouring ; Comtesse 
Sophie Torby has pretty apricot buds; Mine. 
Jules Siegfried is a grand climber, with huge 
clusters of creamy-white blossoms, beautiful 
in autumn either as a bush or a standard ; 
and Noella Nabonnand, a gigantic flower of 
a plum colour, something of the tint of J. B. 
Clarke. It is a rampant grower, flowers 
semi double, and very effective on an arch 
or a house-front. Rosa. 


NOTES AND IiEPLlES. 

Crimson Roses for bedding.— Can you kindly 
tell me if Dandy in a strong, free grower? Will it 
make a mass of Idossom to fill up an entire bed? Is 
it liable to mildew? Can you also tell me if Ktoile 
dr France is a free grower and strong? Can you 
give me the name of any other deep-crimson Hybrid 
Tea Roses and bright scarlet Hybrid Teas, which will 
grow as freely ns Coralllna and Killarney, which do 
so well with us in Cumberland, where we have early 
ami late frosts? —La Rose. 

[Wo cannot recommend Dandy for the 
above purpr.se. It is a pretty Rose in the 
bud, but tlie habit is far too straggling, and 
its flowering quality too poor to use it as a 
bod dor. You would do no better with Etoile 
<le France. It is a Rose fit only for a hot 
climate. Now and then one obtains a good- 
coloured flower, but as a rule they are of a 
dull purplish hue, so objectionable to most 
individuals, ami it is terribly addicted to 
mildew. There are very few Roses that can 
be compared to Corallina os an autumnal. 
We should say that the new variety. War¬ 
rior, will be as good, and perhaps better. A 
vilv fine red is General Macarthur, noticed 
in these pages last week (p. 3tH). and we think 
this would suit you admirably. Richmond, 
too. is good, ami Gross an Teplitz, pegged 
down, as referred to on p. 3(»4. A few bril¬ 
liant sorts that we can highly recommend, 
although not strictly Hybrid Teas, are as 
follows : General Sehablikine, Friquet, Com¬ 
tesse Fostetics Hamilton, General Gallieni, 
Betty Berkeley, and Al’ce Hamilton. Wo 
certainly think you should try a bed of Hugh 
Dickson. It is a glorious Rose, with file* 
large blossoms, of a very brilliant colour, and 
although not so free as a Tea Rose, yet. by 
careful bending over of some of it6 growths, 
a beautiful mass of colour could be obtained.] 
Rose Dorothy Perkins on poles, trees, 
etc. Of late several notes have appeared 
about this Rose, and that from Mr. Mayne, 
rr standards, I quite agree with, having re¬ 
cently seen it at. its best. But I have to put 
in a plea for its culture in other forms, 
amongst them that of growing it on old 
trees. So free and strong-growing is this 
Rose that, it can he had in fine form where 
many things would not thrive. So free is 
this that by giving it, new soil to start in it 
may be planted at the foot of old Hollies, 
Thorns, etc., with every prospect of success. 
In this kind of place I have seen it doing 
splendidly, covering the support in a short 
time. By using this kind of position, when 
covered there is but little danger of its blow¬ 
ing over, so long as the tree lias life in it. Tt, 
is a simple matter to dig a bole li feet or 
3 feet from the tree, leading it lip to this, and 
thus a good start can be given. Recently 1 
planted several of this and other Roses in this 
way. ami all are doing well. A few days 
ago I saw one against a wall growing freely 
and full of bloom. This was only eighteen 
months from the cutting.— J. CROOK, 

Rose Paul Lede. —This Du** Hybrid Tea has been 
wonderfully vorwl this year. There is a wealth of 
carmine-red in the centre of the blossoms, the outer 
petals beiim suffused with rich apricot-yellow; and 
•■ven the inner petals are sometimes shaded witli 
the deep Apricot tint th at, u nites many of. 

Teas so valuable and ifistlhcj^ l*rnil_ 
times JtJJ^fhu>iyl£furlevhi 



CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

EARLY CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

TWO YEAR-OLD PLANTS. 

One of the peculiarities of the present flower¬ 
ing period is the earliness of plants that have 
been in the same position for two successive 
seasons. While many of the younger plants 
are distinctly smaller, and also much later 
than usual in coming into flower, these two- 
year-old plants are really handsome speci¬ 
mens, and are now quite freely flowered and 
most interesting. Contrary to what one 
might reasonably expect, the flowers are rich 
and pure in colour, and very pleasing in the 
bonier, and as cut flowers for decorative uses 
indoors, they already serve a useful purpose. 
Goaeher’s Crimson is superb, Hie colour 
being a rich chestnut-crimson, with a golden 
reverse, and the flowers are of high quality. 
A fine terra-cotta, shaded crimson-scarlet, is 
Nina Blick. Thie is a strong growing plant, 
that makes a beautiful bush, and the blossoms 
are full and of goodly proportions. Polly is 
a variety that is doing remarkably well this 
season. Old plants and portions of old plants 
that were broken up in the early summer arc 
now flowering profusely. The raiser de¬ 
scribes the colour of this variety as deep 
orange; but this colour is only seen on a 
very late bud selection. Just now the flowers 
are a rich amber. This is a very excellent 
variety, and should be in all collections. 
Good, sturdy habit. Rosie is a beautiful 
variety, bearing lovely blortsoms of a rich 
bronzy-terra-cotta hue. This plant lias a 
fine, sturdy, branching habit of growth, and 
is a splendid border sort. Maggie is a rich 
yellow sort that, with us, lias seldom come 
into flower before the end of September. 
The old plants have been flowering since the 
last week in August, and at the present time 
their fine display makes a glorious patch of 
colour in the hardy border. This plant pos¬ 
sesses a dwarf, bushy habit of growth. Mrs. 
R. Madison is a plant having a rather spare 
habit of growth, but with sufficient vigour to 
evolve good flowers of capital size, rather 
larger than most sorts. The colour may be 
described as yellow, heavily shaded bronze. 
This variety is a sport from Mons. G. Gruner- 
wald. Blush Beauty has been in flower for 
weeks, and the earliest flowers partook of a 
very pleasing shade of blush. More re¬ 
cently, however, the blossoms have paled very 
considerably, and their colour is now a rather 
poor blush-white. This plant is a free 
bloomer, and in the pure air of the country 
it io a very useful variety. A variety met 
with in sonic collections under the name of 
Farlv Beauty is no other than the original 
Mons, G. Grunerwald. This is a very pretty 
plant in the early season, and its pale mauve- 
pink blossoms on a white ground are dis¬ 
tinctly dainty. Habit, however, is somewhat 
spare. Carrie is a charming, bright, butter- 
yellow variety, with a deeper shade of the 
same colour towards the centre of the bloom. 
The form in this instance is exquisite, and 
tlie plant free-flowering. As a plant for mar¬ 
ket cut flower purposes, this is a valuable ad¬ 
dition to the many good yellows also freclv 
grown. One may “cut and come again ” 
with this variety, as new shoots and buds 
continue to evolve, maintaining a display over 
quite a lengthened period. This plant has a 
nice habit of growth. Lillie, ns represented 
by the older plants, is a really good tiling. 
Either grown naturally or as a disbudded 
variety this beautiful sort is very fine. The 
form of the flower is good, and the colour is 
a lovely pearl-pink. A special note should be 
made of this good and reliable early-flowering 
sort. 

Wells’s Scarlet is another good an 1 useful 
richly-coloured flower. We saw this last 
season, and thought, well of it, and this 
opinion is enhanced by what wo have recently 
seen of the same plant a second season. The 
colour may bo dcscrilied as a vivid crimson 
terra-cotta; charming habit of growth. All 
the members of the Mine. Masse family oT 
Chrysanthemums are just now doing remark¬ 
ably well. Red Masse is a lovely rich chest¬ 
nut red form of this type of the flower, and 
the colour does not appear to be fleeting, as 
is the case with some of the others. The 
lovely primrose sport from Rabbie Burns is 
one of the most chaste and beautiful of the 


whole series. The flowers open so beautifully 
clean, and the colour is so refined, that we un¬ 
hesitatingly pronounce strongly in its favour. 
Wo have seen the plants of this variety 
grown for market purposes, in 5-ineh pots, 
making pretty specimens, freely flowered. 
White Masse, or Wells’s Masse, ns others 
have it, is a very refined and beautiful white 
sort, of high quality. On some soils a num¬ 
ber of the flowers are tinted a lovely shade of 
blush, and as such are very interesting. No 
collection should be without this fine sport, 
and true stock should always be asked for. A 
pretty crushed strawberry colour of the Masse 
family is seen in a variety named George 
Bowness. This is a sport from the so-called 
Crimson Marie Masse, and is a noteworthy 
addition to this series. Of (lie other mem¬ 
bers of the Masse family that are doing well 
is the rich yellow, Horace Martin; Mrs. 
Baird, a peach-coloured flower; Ralph Curtis, 
a creamy-white sort, sometimes coloured 
lilac-mauve at the base of the florets ; Crim¬ 
son Marie Masse, a fine chestnut bronze, that 
becomes pale with age; Rabbie Burns, a rosy- 
cerise-coloured sort; and the original lilac- 
mauve flower, Mme. Marie Masse. These 
are all making a brave show, and promise 
to maintain a display for a long time to come. 
Among the Pompon sorbs we have several 
good kinds that have been in the same quar¬ 
ters two consecutive seasons. White Lady, 
blush; Pierey’s Seedling (very fine), bronze; 
J. B. Duvoir, lilac-pink; Flora, bright yel¬ 
low'; Mignon, rich yellow; and Orange Pet, 
orange, shaded terra-cotta, are a few of the 
better plants that are freely flowered, and 
their habit is dwarf and bushy. W. V. T. 


TOP DRESSING THE PLANTS. 
Directly the flower-buds are set and seem to 
be swelling evenly, the plants must not lack 
support at tlie roots, the object being to retain 
a vigorous growth. To assist the growth of 
the plants, a top-dressing of some mixture 
may be laid on the surface to cover tl** roots, 
which will have been washed bar* by con¬ 
tinued waterings. The addition of fresh soil 
to the roots on the .surface will encourage 
three to make mure, and the greater the 
number of those close to the top of the soil, 
the better chance will there he of good 
flowers. With abundance of surface roots, 
the plants will be able to take stimulants, 
which must lie given them from tlu* time the 
buds are taken until the flowers are three 
parts expanded. Without plenty of thee* 
roots oil and near the surface, it i.i a mistake 
to feed the plants heavily, as they are not in 
a condition to receive strong stimulants. 
Badly rooted plants can easily be quickly 
ruined by gorging them with strong food when 
they arc not in a condition to receive it. 
Most growers have their favourite composts, 
but to those who liav * not luwl the necessary 
experience to test th * matter for themselves, 

1 will give a few hints. The character of the 
soil in which the plants are growing must be 
taken into consideration before it. is deter¬ 
mined what mixture shall be employed. If 
the soil be light, inclined to sand, a top¬ 
dressing of partly-decayed cow-manure and 
turfy loam in equal parts, with a light 
sprinkling of soot added, will prove of im¬ 
mense advantage. If the soil 1> ■ naturally 
heavy, and consequently of a retentive nature, 
horse-droppings must be substituted for cow- 
manure. Where animal manure cannot be 
procured, some artificial preparation should 
be employed, such as finely ground bones, dis¬ 
solved bones, or any of the numerous mixtures 
advertised. Tn all eases when using artificial 
manures groat care should bo exercised not 
to employ them above the strength recom¬ 
mended. and which accompanies each kind. 
If bones in either form named above are 
chosen, one part of either sort to two of turfy 
loam, from which the fine soil lias been taken, 
may be laid on half an inch thick. Into this 
the roots will run freely. This top dressing is 
not only of much benefit to the plants by 
encouraging extra surface roots, but the 
manure helps to feed the plant. When the 
plants are finally transferred to the flowering 
pots, space in most cases was left for til’s 
top dressing, hut wher * Ibis was not done, 
pieces of tun should be placed around the 
edges ottlio pots to allow for the water and 
top dressing. ' M. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



Septembwi 14 , 1907 


0.1R D EJVTNG IL L USTRA TED. 


379 



TREES AND SHRUBS. 

CARI’ENTERIA CALTFOUNICA. 

This is a very fine slirub, that is hardy in 
southern districts, and, when in full bloom 
on a wall, is a very lovely sight. It grows 
6 feet to 10 feet high, and produces long, 
narrow, pale green leaves, and large, white, 
fragrant flowers, borne in clusters. It is a 
near relative of the Mock Oranges, but hand¬ 
somer, and should be given light, warm soil. 


ing the present season. It is, however, more 
than probable that the brilliant autumn of 
hist year played a more important part in the 
matter than the weather of this season. As 
the summer is now so far advanced, it is 
questionable whether the flowers wilL be suc¬ 
ceeded by fruits so generally, as was the case 
last year, when the long Bean-like pods, 

I from whence the popular name of Indian 
Bean is derived, were borne in large num¬ 
bers. As they do not readily drop, they 
I formed during the last winter a very noticc- 


It can be increased by means of suckers, cut , 
tings, or seeds. In districts where it w ill not 
thrive out-of-door* it is worth the protection 
afforded by a greenhouse. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Catalpa bignonioides (syn. C. syringacfolia). 
- The Catalpa* at least, within the London 
district—are about a month later than usual 
this year in flowering, but most of them are 
blooming in a very satisfactory manner far 
belt**r, indeed, than mywjvanticipatedf owing 
to the rtpil 


nan my*nvnii!K ipaie«i| ow n 
iicr w/lmv<i t*|p«*» 


than in many parts of the country is, doubt¬ 
less, a great point in its favour, for in bleak, 
cold districts it is often injured by sharp 
frosts. The golden-leaved variety (aurea), 
whose foliage is altogether of a uniform 
greenish-yellow tint, affords a pleasing object 
when associated with sombre-hued trees.—X. 

Aralia chinensls.—This, I believe, is 
usually regarded as the correct name of the 
j large shruo or tree generally grown in gar¬ 
dens as Diinorphanthus niandschuricus, but a 
good deal of confusion prevails with regard 
to the nomenclature of these 
hardy members of the Aralia 
family. Without troubling over 
such matters, it may he safely said 
that this Aralia stands out in 
foliage and flower quite distinct 
from any of our hardy shrubs. 
When in good soil, in a fairly 
sheltered position, the huge com¬ 
pound, wide-spreading leaves pre¬ 
sent quite a sub-tropical appear¬ 
ance, and, when, as at this sea¬ 
son, they are crowned by large 
branching panicles of small, 
creamy - white blossoms, this 
Aralia forms a very notable fea¬ 
ture. Among the different speci¬ 
mens one meets with, there is a 
good deal of individual variation, 
some producing suckers with great 
freedom, while others form a clear 
stem, which, however, as a rule, 
branches out when but a little 
height from the ground. A very 
desirable form has been grow n for 
some years at Kew, in the dell 
near the flagstaff, but, not having 
been there just recently, I cannot 
say if it is now in bloom. This 
individual is of more compact 
growth, which feature extends 
even to the flower panicles, and, 
in addition to this, the leaves are 
somewhat glaueeseent. I _ have 
also noted the same variety in the 
grounds of Holland House. The 
recognised varieties of this Aralia, 
either under that name or us Di- 
morph&nthus mandschuricus, are 
alba variegata and aurea varie- 
gata, whose leaves are dearly 
edged with white and yellow re¬ 
spectively, and pyramidal is, a 
curious, dense-growing form, 
which originated in France under 
cultivation.—X. 

Bowkeria Cerardiana.—This 
rare South African shrub, for¬ 
merly known as B. triphylla, from 
its leaves being borne in threes, 
is now flowering freely. The 
flowers are pure satin white, and 
shaped somewhat like those of a 
Calceolaria, with a hood and a 
lip. Tliev measure an inch 
across, and the same from the top 
of the hood to the base of the lip. 
The flower is flattened in shape, 
being not much over a \ inch in 
depth. To show the freedom with 
which it is blooming, I may say 
that I have just cut a spray 18 
indies in length, which is carrying 
thirty fully-expanded flowers and 
twenty-one buds. The flowers are 
borne at the axils of the leaves on 
old wood, sometimes singly 
sometimes ns many as seven 
.... ,. brandling raceme. Plants 
flower in a very small state, my 
specimen, which is now over 

7 feet in height, blooming when 

able feature in many places. This Catalpa is i it, was only a foot high. 1 
well worthy of being planted for ornament lip is three-dobed, the three lobes g 

more than it is as the large heart-shaped closely folded o\ei the tu . 

leaves are very handsome, while the blossoms, | corolla, thus effectually preventing ie 

so freely borne, are at a little distance sug¬ 
gestive of those of the Horse Chestnut. 

Added to this is the faefc that, with the ex¬ 
ception of Sophora japonica, it is the last of 
our hardy trees to unfold its blossoms. It 
thrives well within the smoke-laden area of 
London ; indeed, fine old examples may be 
often met with in the parks, squares, and 
private gardens of the metropolis. The fact 
that in London the winters are less severe 


the 

and 


Carpenterin oalUornica on a wall in Mr. Chan,I,era' garden at Haslemere. From a photograph bj O. A. Champion. 


access of insects. The pollen is shed while 
the flower is still in bud. The Bowkeria is 
a very rare shrub, and, as far os I know, is 
not in commerce. Kew possesses a plant 
which I saw in the temperate house this sum¬ 
mer. The shrub appears fairly hardy, os it 
experienced 1» degs. of frost on four occa¬ 
sions last, w inter, .and. .though totally unpro¬ 
tected, was not - per In amen uy injured, a tem- 

1"-"-' 1 .. " ,,ly 

IIDDAMA rUAMHAir.M 













Digitized by 


Google 


Original from 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



September 14, 190? 


GARDENING ILLVST RATED. 


SSI 


index that the -ripening in the sunshine lias I 
been properly carried out. Ten or twelve ! 
Freesias in a 5-inch pot will make a good i 
potful, and four Roman Hyacinths in the 
6ame sized pot. For cutting Roman Hya¬ 
cinths may be planted rather thickly in boxes 
and plunged in Cocoa-nut-fibre for a time till 
roots have been made. All bulbs after pot¬ 
ting or boxing should have a good watering to 
settle the soil round them before the} - are 
covered, as bulbs cannot make roots without 
moisture. We always plunge our forcing 
bulbs outside when potted, as the conditions 
are more natural. They remain in the piling 
ing bed until growth is moving. This usually 
takes about six weeks. When lifted from the 
plunging material they are placed in a cold 
pit for a time, and afterwards moved as re¬ 
quired to a house where there is a little 
warmth. Freesias should not be plunged. 

Humea elegans. —When well cared for and 
grown, there are few plants that are more 
striking and effective than this at the season 
when it comes into bloom, as, clothed as it , 
then is from near the base to its entire sum- I 


potted singly into 3-inch pots and kept warm 
till they start. By the end of the autumn 
they will need a shift into larger pots. 6-inch 
size being the most suitable, and in these, if 
kept well watered, they may stand till the 
spring, and then be shifted on into others 
a size or so larger, in which they will bloom. 
To maintain their foliage healthy and fresh, 
they must be well fed w r ith liquid-manure. 
This may be given, if weak, as it should be, 
o\ery time they are dry, and later on in the 
year itr is a good plan to stand the pots in 
very shallow pans, or pans partly filled with 
coarse sand or cinders, into which they will 
root. 


OUTDOOR PLANTS^ 

THE ANNUAL SUNFLOWERS. 

Tiie prevailing golden glow of our gardens in 
I autumn is largely owing to the great Sun- 
I flowers of the western prairies which we have 
now in such numerous variety that it must be 
puzzling to a novice in hardy plants to select 



Annual Sunflower (Helianthus animus). 


mit with its rich, brown, feathery inflores¬ 
cence, it has a most dressy appearance, makes 
a fine show , and is of groat value for use in 
vases outdoors or to plaee in the centres of 
beds, as the heads are exceedingly light and 
graceful, and do much to relieve that stiffness 
that so often prevails in our gardens. Not 
only is the Humea elegans adapted for the 
purposes referred to, but it is equally useful 
to help to embellish greenhouses or conserva¬ 
tories, where placed in conspicuous positions, 
or raised above other plants it shows off to 
advantage. The way to have good specimens 
is to sow at once and grow steadily on during 
winter, the place that suits the plants best 
at that season being a light pit or house, 
where they can have a temperature ranging 
between 45 degs. and 50 degs. To get the 
seed to germinate freely, il should be sown in 
a well-drained pot or pan filled w ith finely- 
sifted soil, made suitably moist by watering, 
and have a pane of glass laid over the top. 
If then placed under a hand light and kept 
close or stood in a warm frame, the plants 
will soon appear, and as soon as large enough 
to handle, they shq 

Digitized I 


id as soon as large enou 
h c^rnr* pr i 


from a nursery list a few of the finest kinds. 
The genus is a large one, and the majority of 
the species we see in gardens are perennials, 
a few only being annuals, but there are at 
least three of these annual kinds that we can¬ 
not afford to neglect, although they require 
no more attention in raising every year than 
do the perennials, which give little or no 
trouble. These three annuals include H. de¬ 
bilis (syn. H. cueumerifolius), the Silver¬ 
leaved (H. argyrophyllus), and the common 
Sunflower (H. annuus) in its numerous 
varieties. 

H. DEBILIS, known for years as H. cu 
cumerifolius, is one of the finest of all annual 
composites, as it is elegant in growth, free 
from the coarseness which characterises most 
other species, and the flowers are richly 
coloured. It grows from 3 feet to 4 feet., and 
even 5 feet high, in rich soils, is much 
branched, forms a dense mass, and every shoot 
produces a flower, the beauty of which is the 
strong contrast of the black-purple disc with 
the rich yellow of the ray florets. It begins 
to flower about midsummer, and continues 
till late in the autumn. Being a native of 


Texas, it is best to treat it as a half-hardy 
annual, raising the seedlings under glass and 
planting out in May in rich soil in a fully 
exposed sunny spot. The flowers are useful 
for cutting, and last a long time. A vase 
full of it makes a very fine object. 

H. argyrophyllus (the Silver-leaved Sun¬ 
flower).—A hot, dry summer suits this best, 
and if only it could be seen in large masses 
instead of single plants dotted about, as one 
generally flees it, it w'ould be* one of the finest 
Tate summer and autumn flowers. It is a 
larger grower than H. debilis, the foliage 
broader, the ray florets longer and broader, 
but of a paler yellow, with which the large 
blackish-purple disc forms a charming con¬ 
trast. It is liable to vary in the silvery 
whiteness of its foliage, some plants being 
much whiter than others, and it is from these 
plants that seeds should be saved. Coming 
as it does from the same region as H. debilis, 
it requires similar treatment. The chief 
point in both is to get strong plants before 
planting out, and to obtain these the seed¬ 
lings should be grown on unchecked in rich 
soil, and never allowed to become starved. 
If planted in rich soil and the plants in a 
moist season become too vigorous in growth 
and run up, the leading shoots may be 
checked by timely pinching, which will con¬ 
duce to a more brandling growth. 

H. annuus.—M any despise this old favour¬ 
ite because it is so common and so generally 
seen in the back gardens of towns, but, pro¬ 
perly us-ed in the larger gardens, there is not 
a more stately plant if seen in a large mass 
with a good distance between it and the win¬ 
dows of the house and with a dark back¬ 
ground to show up its form and colour. A 
group of half a hundred plants rising from 
8 feet to 10 feet high makes, in late summer 
and autumn, such an effect as few other 
open-air plants are capable of producing, and 
gives a point of interest to every garden pos¬ 
sessing it. There are several well-marked 
varieties. That named californicus is the 
very large double, the huge flower-heads hav¬ 
ing no disc; citrinus or primrose has pale 
lemon-yellow rays and a broad black disc ; 
globosus fistulosus has enormous globular 
heads; Russian Giant grows to the greatest 
size, sometimes 9 feet and 10 feet high ; and 
nanus plenus dwarf, with double flowers, and 
which may be used in borders and small gar¬ 
dens. There are other sorts, but the above 
comprise the best. 

The common Sunflowers are recommended 
in seed catalogues for growing in shrubberies 
and by woodland walks, but this is often 
wrongly interpreted, hence we often 6ee 
plants struggling for existence close to hungry 
shrubs or in shade where they will not suc¬ 
ceed. Sunflowers must be planted in ail 
open, flunny place in the richest soil, with 
shrubs, not near to share the moisture which 
they require in abundance. 


TREATMENT OF BORDER. 

I should he greatly obliged if you would suggest 
treatment for a border. (50 feet long and 8 feet wide, 
facing west? The soil is gravel, and as this house 
has been unoccupied for several years the whole 
garden is much neglected. This particular border at 
present contains only Sunflowers, Moon Daisies, 
Japanese Anemones, and Madonna Lilies. I should 
like to (111 and keep it bright all the year with 
flowers chiefly herbaceous. Should you advise a 
thorough trenching up in October?— Hugenot, Hants. 

[Trenching the border two spits deep 
early in October is the best course you can 
adopt, and as the border will remain undis¬ 
turbed for several years after being planted, 
a little extra trouble should be spent on its 
preparation. Having a gravelly soil to deal 
with, which in itself is very hot and dry for 
the majority of herbaceous plants, something 
should he added to the staple to make it. 
more holding and retentive of moisture. 
Some stiff heavy loam at once suggests itself 
as the best medium to employ for the pur¬ 
pose, and if you have it, give the surface of 
the border a dressing of it 6 inches in depth. 
Should this not be possible, procure, if you 
can, a good cart-load of clay or marl, which 
lay out thinly in the sun to get thoroughly 
dry. Then pound or pulverise it to get it 
broken as fine as you can, and dress the sur¬ 
face evenly with it afterwards. We once had 
occasion to uW 1 pOTwFmlrd which had lain by 
spun- little time, to render a liglit, sandy soil 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



382 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


September 14, 1907 


more adapted to the needs of herbaceous 
plants, and with the best results. If you 
could only procure a few loads of such 
material to incorporate with your gravelly 
soil, it would be the making of the border for 
some years to come. In addition to the above- 
mentioned materials you would also need 
some well-rotted cow-manure to dig in and 
mix with the top spit. As regards the bottom 
spit, you may use either old hot-bed manure, 
the contents of the garden refuse-heap (if in 
a fairly decayed condition), road-scrapings or 
sweepings, but avoid ashes or lime rubbish. 
In both cases, mix the manures, etc., as inti¬ 
mately as can be with the soil—this being 
very essential and do not bring the bottom 
spit to the surface, and vice rcrsd. For in¬ 
structions as to how the trenching should be 
done, see reply to “Glasgow ” (p. 3G9). If this 
be done early in October, the planting could 
be effected by the end of November, as the soil 
will have settled down by that time, other¬ 
wise planting had best be deferred till the 
first week in February. A border prepared 
in the manner suggested, and occupying a 
western position, could be made to look very 
effective over a long period by the employ¬ 
ment of herbaceous plants principally, merely 
reserving a few spaces here and there for 
annuals and bulbous plants. You could also 
plant the various subjects you wish for in 
good bold groups, in order to get masses of 
colour. Save your Sunflowers, Pyrethrums, 
or Chrysanthemums, as the case may be ; also 
the Japanese Anemones, as all these can be 
used when replanting takes place. If care¬ 
fully lifted and laid in by the heels in another 
part of the garden, they will take no harm 
for the time being.] 


GARDEN ANNUALS. 

Tiib vast number of beautiful flowers which 
can bo raised easily from seed sown where to 
grow, and thue give little trouble, can only 
be adequately realised when seen growing, 
and in great patches also, as at some.seed- 
farm. There not only is every known good 
variety sown and grown, but often many 
stocks of the same kind or variety, 60 that 
the range of beautiful flowering plants seen 
becomes almost illimitable. It is in such case 
that almost myriads of things are seen not 
previously known, and literally a world of 
beauty in flowers becomes opened out. If 
there be added to these outdoor-sown plants, 
a large number of others it is needful to eow 
under glass, yet planted out, the range is in¬ 
deed wonderful; yet all generally come under 
the designation of annuals, simply because 
they will flower freely at some time or other 
during that same year. Of these more tender 
annuals, few present more of variety and 
beauty than do Verbenas. No description can 
do adequate justice to the range of colours 
or markings found in those plants, how they 
spread and bloom, presenting wonderful 
masses of colour, such as it seems so difficult 
to realise come from seed-raised plants. Petu¬ 
nias, Asters, really of marvellous variation, 
St<>ck.s innumerable. Marigolds, Zinnias, SSal- 
piglossis, Phlox Drummondi, Portulaccas, 
are but a few of the many so-called tender 
annuals, yet some, suc h as Asters and Stocks, 
especially the variations, can be counted by 
hundreds. But of the huge section called 
hardy annuals, how glorious are the breadths 
of carmine, deep blue, and pale blue Lark 
spurs, so fine for back rows in borders. How 
singularly fine and effective are the huge 
masses of double Clarkias, for-these now far 
excel the single forms. Godetias are beauti¬ 
ful also, such soft and silky tints of rcse, 
pink, white, and deep red, and, like the 
Clarkias, so long enduring. Ordinary gar¬ 
deners , who grow, perhaps, one form of Mig¬ 
nonette, would be charmed to see the line 
pyramidal reds, golden, and white, as also 
the long-stemmed white, so valuable for fur¬ 
nishing cutting material. How rich is the 
perfume great breadths of these sweet smell¬ 
ing plants give off ! Then, for massing or for 
mixture, how beautiful are the Chinese and 
Indian Pinks, or Dianthuses, double ami 
single, smooth edged and laeiriated, self- 
coloured and marbled, none growing taller 
than about 10 inches, they give flowers of 
great size and exceeding loveliness. Some of 
the laciniatcd flowiymro indeed wlwiderful; 

Digitized by (jOOgTC 


they seein almost all fringe. The myriad 
forms of annual Chrysanthemum seem to be 
almost bewildering, vet all are attractive, 
though so varied, and all are equally useful 
to furnish flowers for cutting. 

But if annuals are 60 plentiful, the hardy 
section of plants reputably classed as bien¬ 
nials also present remarkable features. Snap¬ 
dragons now baffle description, so varied are 
they in the colours and markings of the 
flowers and in form of growth. Sections now 
range from 9 inches in height up to 30 inches, 
cc lours and markings being repeated in each. 
Seed of these ean be sown under glass in the 
spring, the plants being dibbled out in May 
where in bloom, or sown in the open ground 
now, can stand the winter, and make fine 
plants next year. The range of colour ami 
form of flower found in the favourite Can 
terbury Bells is almost remarkable ; so also is 
the variation in the capital autumn-flowering 
plant, the Pentstemon. Wallflowers are not 
now in bloom, neither are Forget-me-nots, 
Auriculas, or Polyanthuses, but stocks of 
these and many other things are there for 
giving beautiful flowers in the spring. 

After all, the great lesson to be learned 
from visiting a seed farm of this description 
is the marvellous range of plants easily raised 
from seed by means of which a flower gar¬ 
den may be made beautiful in a cheap and 
easy way. A. D. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Gaillardias and Auriculas. — 1 have, in 8-inch 
pots, some nuux-d (juillnritias, which are doing well, 
also some named alpine Auriculas, in 4s pots. Will 
you kindly inform me ns to their treatment with re¬ 
gard to keeping them through the winter? 1 have a 
small, unheated glasshouse. Should the Auriculas be 
outside now?—H enry Cronchey. 

[If you have good garden soil the Gail¬ 
lardias would be better in the open ground, 
where they would give a more satisfactory 
flowering next year. If you have not this, 
you cannot do better than keep the plants in 
the pots for the winter and plant them out in 
March or April, meanwhile giving them the 
protection of your unhealed glasshouse. 
After a heavy flowering not a few of these 
Gaillardias perish unless attention be paid 
them with a view to keeping up a stock. 
Seeds of the best kinds grow quite freely, 
and the plants are, as a rule, more vigorous. 
The named alpine Auriculas are certainly 
worth caring for, and may be housed in Sep¬ 
tember, provided ample air be given. These 
plants are very hardy and enduring, but re¬ 
pay for being kept free from too much wet 
overhead, hence the winter protection of 
your cold-house would suit them admirably. 
The summer rainfall will not so much affect 
them, and in many districts these alpine kinds 
may be wintered in the open borders with im¬ 
punity. In housing such things, therefore, 
avoid all coddling in a stuffy atmosphere. 
During winter give enough water at the roots 
to keep the leaves quite plump, and freer sup¬ 
plies as the growth becomes more active.] 

Plants under Sycamore There is a large Hyea- 
mcre-tree in my garden. Could you tell me whut 
flowering shrubs and what perennial flowers would 
grow in the slope under it? The slope faces south. 
Would Lilac-bushes grow under it, also Eiconien, 
Irises, Foxgloves, etc.?—G. H. 

[The chief difficulties to contend against are 
the density of the shade and the far-reaching 
roots. These, of course, arc modified in the 
case of an isolated example, and if the soil 
is not too dry, you may plant Berberis Dar- 
wini, Itibes. and Weigclas on the elope. Of 
flowering perennials you could plant nothing 
better than Flag Irises in blue and white, 
Foxgloves, Evening Primrose, London Pride 
—the whole bank might be carpeted with this, 
if you like and for trailing purposes the 
white and pink Perennial Pea. If these are 
insufficient, you might add Megusoa cordifolia 
purpurea, Vincas, ami Clematis Jackmani, 
while Cotoneaster mierophylla is a plant not 
to be overlooked. Dryness of soil and its 
poverty will be the most likely obstacles to 
success, and should these be of an extreme 
nature, your best plants, will be London 
Pride, Butcher's Broom, and St. John’s Wort. 
For a season or two many Daffodils, Scilla 
eampnnulata, and oilier bulbous plants would 
succeed.] 

Sweet Peas for market--I am anxious, as an 
experiment, to try to raise some early Sweet IVa 
blossoms for the London market, and would be most 


grateful for any hints you will give me as to the 
best time to sow and the best sorts to grow, both as 
being attractive in colour and yielding a large supply 
of continuous bloom? The soil here is gravel on 
chalk, and I propose growing the Sweet Peas in two 
strips of ground in a walled garden. The first is 
20 feet long by 2 broad. It is backed by a pot ting- 
shed, the thatch of which projects so far as to almost 
protect the whole strip. The second strip is backed 
by a wall facing south, but without the thatched 
protection. I may mention that I sowed some Sweet 
Peas in the first-named piece of ground at the end of 
last October, and, in spite of the continuous frost we 
experienced here during January and February, 1 
bad the plants in bloom on June 8th. But, of course, 

1 wish to have earlier flowers than this. Do you 
advise my sowing early in September? The soil in 
the first named piece of ground is being dug out to a 
depth of 2 feet, and fresn, well manured soil is being 
substituted. Any other advice as to the best, firms 
who are likely to require these blossoms would be of 
much help.—L opisje. 

[We have no desire to discourage you in 
the above matter, but we think it right to 
tell you that the produce of your plot of 
ground would be of very little use in the 
London markets, and, possibly, be more than 
disappointing to yourself. Apart from this, 
the Sweet Pea is now grown extensively under 
glass not only for producing early supplies of 
bloom, but for autumn and winter also. 
Hence it is difficult to know whether the 
flowers we see in shop windows are the out¬ 
come of very early or quite late sowings. The 
date you give is certainly fairly early for an 
outdoor crop, but much earlier flowers are 
gathered in southern and south-western dis¬ 
tricts. You might succeed better by supply¬ 
ing shops in your own district. The earliest 
variety we know is Sutton’s Earliest of All. 
It is jess meritorious, however, than dozens 
of others which flower some ten days later, 
but of decided merit as an early bloomer. We 
do not think you will gain much by sowing 
before the middle or end of September, unless 
you can give winter protection. The vari¬ 
ableness of our winters and the cold spring 
winds are much against progress in these 
flowers.] 

Malmaison Carnations. Please say if there is 

a yellow Malmaison Carnation or more than one? If 
there are. please state names and whether they are 
easy to cultivate or not? Why are Malmaison Carna¬ 
tions so named?—N orth Kerry. 

[We k„ ow of but one yellow flowered Mal¬ 
maison Carnation, and its name is Yaller Gal. 
The blossoms are of medium size and of a 
bright yellow tone. It is, we believe, one of 
Mr. Marlin Smith’s raising, and may be ob¬ 
tained from the leading growers of Carna¬ 
tions. Your further inquiry as to why the 
Malmaison Carnation is so called is not easy 
to explain. It. is, however, believed by the 
older florists that the Malmaison Carnation 
was named after the residence of the First 
Napoleon’s wife, Josephine, who lived at Mal¬ 
maison. In Hogg’s treatise on the flower, 
we are informed that she was very fond cf 
the Carnation, and grew many varieties in 
her garden. Thomas Hogg, who wrote his 
treatise on the Carnation in 1820, was then 
a large grower of the flower at Paddington 
Green, near London, and, while silent con¬ 
cerning the Malmaison type, he refers to “an 
admirable collection of yellow Picotees at 
Malmaison, where the celebrated botanist, 
Bonpland, grew them for Mine. Josephine.” 
It is quite probable, therefore, that the Mal¬ 
maison type originated at the place named, 
though nothing definite is known concerning 
it.] 

Narcissi under Elder.—I have a small covert 
with thousands of Narcissi and Daffodils partly 
planted under Elder-hushes and others under tall 
trees. I am anxious to know if they will be harmed 
hy the Elders? Last year was their first. Also, what 
could I have to bloom in the summer? I have cut a 
lot of nettles down. Would French Willow, tr \N Plow- 
weed, some call it, do in such a place, and how or 
when should I start it?-GYPSOPHIM. 

[The permanent success of the bulbs under 
the Elder will depend very much on the den¬ 
sity of the bushes, and we think there is 
every probability of the bulbs going on for 
some years. The nature of the soil is of some 
moment, too, especially so in conjunction 
with the varieties planted. For a later flower¬ 
ing the Willow-herb, Epilobium angusti- 
folinm, and E. hirsutum would be service¬ 
able. You might also sow freely of the seeds 
of Foxgloves, and Evening Primrose (Oeno¬ 
thera biennis), both of which take care of 
themselves after the first flowering. Prim¬ 
roses, too, would he very beautiful in spring¬ 
time, and to follow these and the Daffodils 
the common Bluebell, Scilla vestalia, or 8. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



SisrTEMnF.R 14, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


383 



Narcissus poeticus The Bride. 


nutans, would be suitable. If you desire a 
bolder subject, try some of the Mulleins 
(Verbascum) in arty position where ail open¬ 
ing occurs.] 

Tufted Pansies—preparing ground for 
planting (Bootalia ).—To grow the Tufted 
Pansies well, the soil should be deeply dug 
and heavily manured. Much depends on the 
character of your soil, however. Should it 
be light and sandy, well rotted cow-manure 
should be incorporated freely, as this is very 
retentive of moisture, and cool also. In the 
hot weather the roots revel in quarters that 
have been trenched, the results in the 
flowering period amply repaying one for the 
extra trouble and expense incurred. Should 
your garden soil be heavy, with a clayey sub¬ 
soil, incorporate well-rotted horse-manure 
and plenty of road sweepings. These two in¬ 
gredients give just the required amount of 
plant food, and, when well worked into the 
fioil, ensure satisfactory root action. The 
quarters for the Tufted Pansies should be 
taken in hand as early as convenient. The 
ground should be treated in the way sug¬ 
gested sufficiently early to leave the surface 
in the rough for a week or two to sweeten, 
and for the weather to render it friable before 
the planting. You may 
safely plant out the 
Tufted Pansies during 
the first or second w T eek 
in October. Little 
pieces planted at that 
time will make beauti¬ 
ful plants bv the early 
summer, and they 
should he studded with 
blossoms from April 
(possibly earlier) on¬ 
wards. This is the ad¬ 
vantage of autumn 
planting. Should you 
prefer to plant in the 
spring — say, March 
next — see that the 
quarters arc dug in the 
winter and the surface 
left rough for the frosts 
to pulverise a n d 
sweeten it. Should 
your soil bo infested 
with wire - worm, 
sprinkle a small quan¬ 
tity of Yaporite in the 
trenches as the ground 
is dug. This is a very 
effective remedy, and 
the insecticide does no 
harm to the plants. 

Home - gathered 
flower-seeds.— Does it 
pay the owner of a 
small garden to save 
seeds of flowers for 
sowing another year? 

This is a question 
which arises in the 
minds of some periodi¬ 
cally, and generally at the end of the 
summer. I venture to say, having tried the 
experiment, that, to use a common expres¬ 
sion, “the game is not worth the candle,” 
for the reason that the owner of a small garden 
first wishes the best show 7 of bloom possible, 
and for the longest period, and to expect 

f ilants to do this, and at the end of a season 
et them go to seed, is not calculated to get 
the best results. Take as an illustration 
Sweet Peas. One knows that they are among 
the most prolific of annuals, and will bloom 
well on until the end of September, so long 
as the flowers are regularly cut; but if after 
that period the blooms are allowed to go to 
seed, the seed so produced suffers, owing to 
weakened vitality, and, in some instances, 
through not ripening properly. The same re¬ 
marks hold good with many other annuals, 
seeds of which, to be in the best of condition, 
and pure, ought to be from the first flowers, 
and not from those produced when the plants 
are almost worn out.— Woodbastwick. 

American winter-flowering Carnations.— 
Last spring I planted outdoors about one 
hundred plants of these free flowering Tree- 
Carnations, which were part of a batch that 
had been blooming throughout the winter 
months. I did not care to throw them away, 
yet was rather dubious 'about plantirto them 


Digitiz 


VjjO 


lantirlg th* 

gTe 


outdoors, as I had been led to believe that 
they were not suited for outside culture. How r - 
ever, I finally decided to run the risk, and 
the results have, to me, been an agreeable 
surprise, for the plants have never ceased to 
flower from the time they were set out down 
to the present period. Such being the case, 
I intend repeating the experiment another 
season, for these tree varieties are so continu¬ 
ous in blooming, and, unlike the border varie¬ 
ties in this respect, that where Carnations 
are in daily request throughout the summer 
and early autumn months, and a house can¬ 
not well be set apart in which to produce 
them, this seems to me to be a very con¬ 
venient and pleasing method of producing 
them.— G. I*. K. 


NARCISSUS POETICUS TIIE BRIDE. 
Since the days when N. p. oruatus came into 
prominence there has been very considerable 
improvement in the poeticus group as a 
whole, not merely in size of blossom, but in 
size and intensity of the crown, the greater 
stature of the plant, with increased purity, 
and flowers of the most perfect form. These 
improvements are not, to our" thinking, the 


greatest gain which has resulted during re¬ 
cent years. Formerly, when the flowering 
season of such as angustifolius, ornatus, ana 
poet arum had passed, our gardens were with¬ 
out the purity and fragrance of these flowers 
till, in May, the late flowering poeticus, the 
old Pheasant’s-eye, gave us its welcome and 
fragrant flow'ers. The credit of bridging over 
the gulf between these earl } 7 and late flower¬ 
ing poeticus kinds belongs to the Rev. G. H. 
Englehcart, who, by repeated crosses, has 
given us beautiful flowers, and, most import¬ 
ant of all, an unbroken chain of blooming in 
this valuable section of Narcissi. 

To-day the poeticus race of Narcissi is a 
most important one, and there are many fine 
varieties in which, to some extent, the ori¬ 
ginal parentage may be traced. If we take 
the variety depicted in the illustration to¬ 
day—viz.. The Bride—and that lovely form 
known as Cassandra, which some regard as 
the best of all the poeticus kinds, we see two 
entirely different types of these flowers. The 
Bride represents a glorified form of orna¬ 
tus in form of petal, the other is suggestive of 
the influence of the old Pheasant’s-eye in 
part. It is in this direction that further im¬ 
provement is looked for—viz., the closing up 
of the more starry-petalled flowers, increased 
roundness of form, a brighter cfptral colour, 


etc. Happily, theso now poeticus kinds aro 
good growers, not a few of them seed freely, 
too, and they succeed well in moist places 
and in Grass and other ways. Quite a valu¬ 
able and useful kind among ordinary sorts is 
the Pyrenean poeticus, a variable plant 
withal, from which good things may be 
selected. An important point to remember 
in connection with the poet’s race of Nar¬ 
cissi is its nearly perpetual rooting char¬ 
acter, which forbids a long period in the dry 
state. In other respects they are by no 
meuns difficult to manage. 

Apart from these already named, the fol¬ 
lowing are all worthy of cultivation:—Al¬ 
mira, very fine, suited to forcing ; Chaucer, 
perhajw the earliest of the set; Dante and 
Epic, both modern kinds of great merit; 
Glory, a magnificent flower; Homer, with 
somewhat of poetarum in its composition; 
Horace, one of the largest of all; and Mar¬ 
vel, a very distinct and useful kind, yet cheap 
withal. From out of this set a ‘series of 
kinds of the highest value to the gardener 
and the florist may be selected. 

E. IT. Jenkins. 


Forget-me-nots. As occupants of marsh 
and mire, and not as garden flowers, many 
people regard Forget-ine-nots, but though 
some of the varieties undoubtedly do best 
when growing by “still rivers and solitary 
meres,” there are others that give a good 
account of themselves when planted and 
treated like any other garden subjects. Those 
who have old plants of M. Victoria and al- 
pestris, from which the flowering stems have 
long since been cut, may now divide them 
with a view to increase the stock. If they 
are pulled to pieces, and planted in a bed to 
themselves-sav, on a north border—thev 
will come in handy for dibbling amongst 
spring-flowering plants later on. I have found 
this a less troublesome method than sowing 
seed, and one that is quite as satisfactory.— 
Woodbastwick. 

Plants for rough walls. -Walls roughly 
constructed of pieces of stone, bricks, 
clinkdFs, and even pieces of turf, are not in 
themselves very attractive, but in certain dis¬ 
tricts they are to be seen separating the vari¬ 
ous plots of ground. On such rough walls it 
is not a very difficult matter to place rough 
turves on the top of the wall, and on these to 
plant in the autumn some of the Stonecrops, 
Arabises, and Aubrietias. Here and there 
one may introduce a few Wallflowers, plant¬ 
ing them where they will get a good hold. 
My experience proves that in the case of 
Wallflowers, it is better to sow a few seeds 
in the crevices rather than relv on established 
plants. Some of the dwarf Bellflowers make 
admirable wall plants, and such sorts as 
pusilla and Portenschlagiana would do well. 
Then, too, in the spring seeds of Lin arias and 
Erinus alpinus may be sown. Rough walls, 
though somewhat of an eyesore in themselves, 
may be made to look very inviting by cloth¬ 
ing them with suitable plants. - Townsman. 

Early-blooming Wallflowers. — Whether 
Wallflowers that commence to bloom in the 
autumn are appreciated is doubtful, but when 
it is remembered that the same plants will 
give a few flowers throughout the winter and 
hurst into full beauty with the first mild 
weather in spring, everyone who has a garden 
should endeavour to find room for a few of 
them. From the variety Earliest of All I have 
been able generally to pick a few flowers about 
Christmas, because the plants are grown 
under the shelter of a wall on a border hav¬ 
ing a south aspect, and those who intend to 
procure Wallflowers for planting shortly 
should obtain a few 7 plants that precede the 
general stock in the time of blooming.— 
Townsman. 

Godetia Crimson King—All who prow annuals 
know how valuable Godetiaa arc, creating as they do 
such fine effects when grown in masses either in beds 
or mixed borders. I was forcibly reminded of this 
when looking round the grounds of a neighbouring 
estate, when a fine mass of the above variety pre¬ 
sented itself to view, the plants being, in this case, 
in full bloom and literally covered with their 
gorgeous-coloured blossoms. The soil had evidently 
been well prepared for them, a3 was shown by the 
size of the individual blossoms, and it was quite the 
finest mass of colour I have seen this season, which 
will he remembered in many an instance as being 
anything but a satisfactory one from a floral point 

ot UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




384 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


September 14, 1907 


FERNS. 

SOWING FERN SPORES. 

In preparing the pots, the chief thing is to 
get some good yellow loam, free from 
worms and other insects, also from 6eeds of 
any weeds, for when these spring up they 
often damp off, and cause the damping to 
spread over the surface of the pots and de¬ 
stroy the spores. Five-inch pots are the best 
size? to use. They may be filled firmly to within 
about an inch of the rims. No drainage is 
necessary ; in fact, it is better not to use any, 
as the most important point is to keep a 
regular moisture. Filling the pots with loam 
and standing in saucers of water will ensure 
this. After the pots are filled they should be 
well soaked, and then surfaced over with 
powdered charcoal and crock-dust, or, for 
the Aspleniums, Platyeeriums, or others which 
root on the surface, some Sphagnum may be 
added. This should be carefully picked over, 
and" alL weeds, etc., removed. It must be 
chopped up very small, and then rubbed 
tlirough a fine sieve with some sand. After 
damping the surface the spores may be sown. 
It is essential to avoid sowing the spores too 
thickly. If they have been saved with care, 
the slightest dusting over will ensure a good 
crop, as when sown too thickly they choke 
each other. If a number of sorts are to be 
sown at the same time, the pots for each 
should be? removed from the others, to avoid 
the spores spreading. If this is not done, all 
the pots will produce a crop of the free-grow¬ 
ing sorts. With due care most of the varie¬ 
ties may be raised comparatively true. When 
choicer sorts or those that are slow' to germi¬ 
nate are sown. I like to avoid having any of 
the free-growing sorts about, for even with 
the greatest care it. is impossible to avoid 
some spores spreading about. After the 
snores are sown, the pots may be placed in a 
shady position and covered with glass. Al 
though the direct rays of the sun must be 
avoided, light is essential. This point must 
not be overlooked, for 1 believe failure often 
occurs through keeping the pots in a # dark, 
heavily-shaded position. I have frequently 
noticed when the pots have stood partly under 
a slope that the spores germinate freely where 
the light falls on the pots, while they remain 
dormant where they get less light. The 
glasses should be removed and the condensed 
moisture wiped off before the globules have 
got large enough to drop off on to the surface 
of the pots. No surface watering should be 
given after the spores are sown, but the 
saucers may be filled up from time to time as 
they require it. It is not necessary to keep 
them constantly full ; in fact, it is better not 
to do so. or the soil may become too wet. 
With a little experience it is easy to tell when 
the pots arc sufficiently moist. They must 
never be allowed to get quite dry. As soon 
as the pots are well covered with the prothalii 
they .may be taken off in small patches and 
pricked off into pots or boxes which have been 
prepared with a surfacing of more suitable 
soil for the young seedlings to root into. These 
will require dividing again about the time the 
first tiny fronds appear. 

A Fern Lover. 


Window-boxes in autumn.— The great ad¬ 
vantage of growing plants for furnishing win¬ 
dow-boxes in pots is that when the occupants 
of the boxes begin to show signs of failing, 
it is an easy matter to drop a few fresh plants 
in their places, and so one may have a con¬ 
tinuous show as long as the weather permits. 
To this end, for an autumnal display, it is 
worth while having a few Asters and dwarf 
Chrysanthemums in pots, whilst some of the 
dwarfer Starworts are not to be despised for 
late blooming. Some people, who make 
much of their window-boxes, contrive to grow 
a few Gladioli in pots, which make a window 
very bright in autumn. As long season 
plants, having a neat habit, with plenty of 
delightful colours, there are few things to 
excel the Tufted Pansies.—F. W. I). 

Readers oil holiday. Durinc the holiday season 
readers who ttnd any difficulty in obtaining Garden 
tNO Illustrated from the local newsagent or book¬ 
stall, may have a copy posted regularly for a few 
weeks or longer by sending a remittance at the rate 
of lid. a copy to the Publisher, Gardening Illus* 
trated, 17, Furnival-str«£t7TloU>orn Lond|)n^F C. 

Digitized ty VjOOglC 


GARDEN WORK. 

Conservatory.— Judging from present ap¬ 
pearances. we are likely to get rather better 
weather during September than we have had 
hitherto, and a month of really nice weather 
will be useful now to ripen things. If we get 
bright sunshine after so much dull weather a 
thin shade will be useful. But at this season 
we ought to be always ready for moving any 
plant indoors in the event of much wet and 
gales of wind. Chrysanthemums should be 
securely tied now. ns the season is not come 
for housing them yet, but scarlet Salvias and 
other plants which have been planted out and 
intended to be lifted should soon be potted 
up. This will include Arum Lilies and Eupa- 
to minis. Sometimes Sol ami ms are planted 
out, and though there may be no hurry about 
these, yet they should be lifted not later than 
the end of the month. Though these things 
should be lifted and potted shortly, they may 
remain outside for the present on the west or 
north side of a building, and be syringed freely 
to keep the foliage fresh while the roots get 
to work again. VVe shall keep hard wooded 
plants out ns long as possible, but in the 
meantime shall have the house which is to 
receive them thoroughly cleaned with snap 
and water. Where the cool plant-houses have 
been filled with Tomatoes during summer, 
unless fire-heat has been used, which is not 
likely, the Tomatoes cannot be cleared just 
yet, as everything both indoors and outside 
is something !ike three weeks later ; but a fort¬ 
night's sunshine would do wonders for us now. 
Liquid-manure may be given to any plant 
which has filled its pot with roots. Specimen 
Palms which have been plunged outside 
should soon be taken in again. Climbing 
growth should be gradually thinned to Jet in 
air and sunshine. If the stock of Pelar¬ 
goniums and other cuttings is incomplete, the 
number should be made up now. Cuttings of 
Ivy, Honeysuckle, Jasmine, and AmpoLnpsis 
will root now in the shade. We generally 
strike all this class of stuff under glass, and 
seldom lose a cutting. The Cape Cowslips 
(Lachenalias) are very pretty early flowering 
bulbs, and do well in baskets planted rather 
thickly, and the baskets should be well lined 
with Moss and the bulbs inserted amici the 
Moss. If the lights forming the roof of the 
Rose-house are, as they ought to be, movable, 
they will now be off, and the Roses fully ex¬ 
posed. This cleans and rests the plants, and 
by and bye any pruning required may be 
done. 

The Pine-stove. —Some time during this 
month, when the weather is suitable, the 
Pines should be overhauled and the plunging 
beds renewed. If the plunging materials arc 
exhausted, and, probably, damp from decay, 
they hold so much moisture that the root 
action becomes sluggish. If there is plenty of 
bottom-heat from hot-water pipes, the pots 
may be plunged in Cocoa fibre. Oak-leaves 
at this season are not to bfe had, and tan is 
not always available. Very often if the old 
material is turned and passed through a 
screen, or sieve, and a little fresh added, the 
bed, when renewed in this way, will go 
through the winter and retain sufficient 
warmth for healthy root action. A good 
many of the strongest successions will re¬ 
quire repotting into 9-inch or 10-inch pots, 
and Queens may be finished in this size next 
summer with judicious feeding. The Black 
Jamaica is one of the best winter fruiting 
varieties, and some of them may now be 
showing fruit, and for these a top-dressing 
may suffice, using good turfy loam mixed with 
a little artificial plant food. I)o not overpot 
anything now . nor yet over water. This work 
will depend entirely upon the judgment, of 
the cultivator, as it is not easy to get among 
the plants to apply the usual* tests. This is 
where experience is necessary. The soil in 
a pot plunged in leaves or Cocoa-fibre does 
not dry so fast as in the case of pots not so 
plunged. As a rule, once a week through the 
winter is often enough to water Pines, 
but the syringe should lie used on every bright 
day. Shade will hardly be necessary for 
Pines now'. Close early with a damp atmos¬ 
phere. Night temperature of fruiting-house, 
65 degs. to 68 degs. Successions will do in 
5 degs. lower. 


Figs in pots. This is an easy way of grow¬ 
ing Figs under glass, and fruiting plants may 
be had in comparatively small pots, as when 
the plants require more food a zinc collar, 
4 inches or so wide, may be inserted just in¬ 
side the rim and a rich top-dressing filled in ; 
the roots will soon find it. No fruit tree 
bears root-pruning so well as the Fig, and, 
treated thus, the plants may be kept in 
moderate sized pots for years. The root- 
pruning should be done as soon as the leaves 
fall in autumn, and anv repotting required 
should be done then. The plants may stand 
outside till frost comes, but should not be 
exposed to severe frost. Figs are easily pro¬ 
pagated from cuttings of the ripe wood or by 
layering, but suckers should not b? used for 
increasing stock, as such plants are longer in 
coming into hearing. Figs are gross feeders, 
and during hearing will use up liquid-manure 
freely, as well as rich top-dressings. The 
varieties mostly grown are White Marseilles 
and Brown Turkey, but there arc others which 
are very good. In looking through the Ches- 
hunt Nurseries, about this time last, year, 
with Mr. Paul. I saw several varieties be¬ 
sides those named fruiting freely in rather 
small pots, some of the names of which I 
made a note of. but my notes have been mis¬ 
laid. Among the Figs f have met with else¬ 
where. and which are suitable for indoor cul¬ 
ture in pots. He La Madelaine, Grosse Vert, 
White Ischia, and Dauphine are worth a trial. 
The first named is very early, and forces well. 
The Figs want. heat, and moisture during 
growth and a drier atmosphere while ripen¬ 
ing, and plenty of food when swelling the 
crop. The second crop, which is produced 
on the wood of the current year when grown 
under glass, is generally the most prolific. 

Tomatoes in cool-house. Though later 
than usual, those are coming on fast 
now, and the price is better than it has been 
for several years. Heavily-laden plants may 
have liquid manure, ns they will pay for it 
now. and the house will be wanted for other 
purposes ; so get them on as fast as possible 
now. Most of the old leaves are. or may be, 
shortened back now to the last pair of leaf¬ 
lets. Last year wo had a house of Carter’s 
Sunrise, which made a second growth from 
the main stems, and ripened a second crop 
of fruit about Christmas almost as good as 
the first. We have never found any other 
variety that will do this. The fruits we are 
gathering now run about eight to the pound. 
Every bloom sets, and the fruits arc very even 
in size, and there are no deformed ones. 
This, of course, may be, in some measure, 
due to care in saving the seeds. 

Orchard-house. - Place all trees outside n.s 
soon as the fruits are gathered, but do not 
forget them in the matter of watering and 
syringing. Get the potting or top-dressing 
done as soon as convenient, so that the roots 
may enter the new stuff before winter. 

Plants in the house.— Do not overload the 
house with plants—especially flowering plants 
—as there is plenty of outdoor suitable for 
cutting, and frequent change can be had. A 
few Palms and Ferns, with an Orchid or other 
choice flowering plant, will b? appreciated 
more than a lot of common things dropping 
their petals about. 

Outdoor garden. - Among the new Mont- 
bretias that I expect everybody will plant, 
Geo. Davidson, Germanica, Martagon, and 
Prometheus should be included. They do 
well in the town garden. I saw the other day 
a border of Montbretins against a background 
of Sweet Peas, and they not only were very 
effective, but would for a long time provide a 
lot of good cutting material. Polygon uni 
baldschnanicum is a fine subject for the per¬ 
gola or to cover a wide arch. It is now in 
flower, and has considerable value for cutting. 
The double flowered Gypsophila paniculata is 
also useful for cutting. The beds and other 
positions intended for Roses should he tho¬ 
roughly deepened and prepared ready for 
planting in November. Failures nre gener¬ 
ally caused by planting without any prepara¬ 
tion. Cuttings of vigorous Roses will strike 
now in a shady spot in a bed specially pre¬ 
pared for them. They should be planted 
firmly. Kniyes used in the preparation of 
cuttings should be sharp. The cuttings may 
be about 9 inches long, und two-thirds of the 


Sef'tbmijer 14 , 1007 


GARDENING ILLUSTR. ITED. 


3$i> 


length buried in the soil. There should be 
space enough between the rows for the use of 
a entail hoe. If the weather comes hot and 
dry. place a mulch of old leaf-mould or 
manure between the rows. Plant out Pinks, 
and get. beds of Carnations readv. If there 
are wirewornta in the soil, give a’dressing of 
vaporite. 

Fruit garden. —If there are any old, worn- 
out trees, grub them out and prepare the 
sites by changing the soil, deep biuI wide 
enough to remove all old roots and exhausted 
soil. When doing such work, we want a good 
heap of loam to run to. This is really better 
than manure. Young trees do not want much 
manure near the roots, though a mulch of 
manure on the surface is beneficial, and sur¬ 
face feeding generally is the right course to 
pursue. It is of very great advantage to have 
a few young trees coming oil to replace trees 
wearing out. In the best-managed gardens 
trees will wear out, and there are in some 
gardens trees that will pay for regrafting 
when the proper season comes round. Any 
tree which is making too much wood and not 
bearing as it ought to do should be root- 
pruned during September. 

Vegetable garden. --This has been rather 
a troublesome season for weeds, and a de¬ 
termined effort should be made to clear them 
ufT before they seed, or tliev will give endless 
trouble in the future. Weeds which are full 
of seed ports should be burned, to destroy I ho 
seed. At this season there are accumula¬ 
tions of rubbish, such as hedge trimmings, 
etc., that will easily make a smouldering fire. 
If seeding weeds are merely rotted down the 
seeds will he carried on to the land again. 
Now that the Onions are harvested, give the 
land a dressing of soot, or i-F soot is not avail¬ 
able. 3 lb. or 4 lb. per rod of any good arti¬ 
ficial manure will be useful. A good mixture 
"ill be equal parts of guano aud superphos¬ 
phate scattered evenlv over the ground, and 
hoed in deeply, or lightly forked in. Then 
draw drills 18 inches apart, and plant the 
Cabbages 18 inches apart in the drills. Do 
not plant Cabbages in very loose, deeply- 
stirred land at this season, as they turn in 
quicker and make firmer hearts when they 
follow Onions or any crop where the land has 
been deeply worked and well manured. This 
is why Onions are a good preparation for 
Cabbages. It is well where very early Cab- 
bages are wanted to plant a few rows about a 
foot apart on a south border. These come in 
before the main crop, and can be cut and the 
ground cleared for French Beans or some 
other crop, such ns New Zealand Spinach, 
for instance, that wants sunshine. 

_ K. Hobday. 

THE COMING WEEK'S WORK. 

Extracts from a Garden Diary. 
September mh.—We have not vet finished 
putting in cuttings. The work will go on as 
opportunity serves till completed. Finished 
potting Arum Lilies. Bulbs of various kinds 
are being potted and boxed for forcing. Alt 
the early flowering bulbs are now in. Pre¬ 
pared a frame for Violets for winter flower¬ 
ing. The Violets will be lifted and planted 
therein shortly. They will follow early 
Melons, the soil being levelled down and 
some fresh loam and leaf-mould added, the 
whole being made firm. 

September 17th .—Made a last sowing of 
Brown Cos and All the Year Round Cabbage 
Lettuces for standing the winter, for the 
most part in the seed-bed. Put in cuttings 
of Pentstemons in cold-frame. Planted out 
Carnation layers in beds nntl groups on the 
borders. Made up two Mushroom beds out¬ 
side. The next bed will be made inside. 
Trenched and manured ground for Roses, lo 
he ready for planting in November. Celery 
and Leeks are being earthed up when dry, a's 
opportunity serves. 

September 18th .—Moved a few pots of 
Eiieharis to stove. Shall give liquid-manure, 
as we find thjs has a good deal of influence 
upon the growth of the spikes. Potted up 
Salvias and other things which have been 
planted out to make growth. Will 6tand 
these outside on the side of a wall for the 
present, and syringe frequently with soft 
water. Staked and tied Chrysanthemums, 
helping with liquid-:- 


September 19th .—Thinned the growth of 
Dahlias. Saved seeds front good Hollyhocks 
and choice Carnations. The latter are grown 
under glass. Planted out Cabbage plants 
after Onions. Thinned Spinach to 6 inches. 
New Zealand Spinach on a warm border is 
growing freely, and is useful. Peaches arc 
gathered before they are quite ripe for travel¬ 
ling. Plums are abundant. There is no bet¬ 
ter Plum than Gisborn’s for cooking and jam 
making. 

September 20th. —Seeded down a small 
lawn, the turf of which had been much worn 
bv play. We find this month the best 
for Sowing Grass-seed. One lawn that, was 
sown last September has been in use for 
croquet all the summer. Of course, the work 
is well done, and if manure is wanted it. is 
used liberally. We use basic slag in connec¬ 
tion with more stimulating manures. Sowed 
Chervil and gathered Parsley for drying. 

September 21st. - Re-arranged conservatory 
and brought back several specimen Palms 
which had been plunged out, as we are afraid 
of damage from winds, which are generally 
strong at this season. The few remaining 
bunches of Grajies in earliest house have been 
cut and bottled, and the Vines washed with 
hose and the house thrown open. As the 
wood is ripe and strong, all they want now is 
rest, and a Low temperature will give that. 


BIRDS. 

STARTING HINTS. 

I hough very many start with cage-birds in 
the spring, the fact that birds are more 
cheaply procurable in the autumn leads many 
to start at this season; and, when it is in¬ 
tended to breed during the coming year, 
autumn is the best, time, by reason that use¬ 
ful experience can then begained before the 
spring. Before purchasing a bird, or birds— 
always start upon a modest scale—learn how 
such birds should be housed and treated. 
Seek advice from a bird loving friend or 
neighbour, if possible. If not. consult some 
standard work upon the subject. In pur¬ 
chasing cage-birds, try to secure sound, 
healthy stock, hut do not pay fancy prices, 
because the beginning is better made with 
commoner birds mote likely not to suffer 
seriously from the mistakes of management 
made at times by even the most careful of 
novices in bird-keeping. It is best not to buy 
out of a bird shop if it can be helped, but 
to go direct to a private bird-keeper, the 
reason for this being that disease is much 
more likely to be acquired by a bird when in 
a bird-shop than when in the hands of an 
oidinary bird-keeper. 

The best type of bird for a beginner is one 
of the hardy finches, as they are the easiest to 
cater for and to keep cleaii. This class em¬ 
braces the canary and some of the very 
cheapest and most satisfactory of cage-birds". 
Birds give the most satisfaction when kept in 
aviaries, and hardy birds in outdoor aviaries, 
but, of course, they can be kept clean and 
healthy in cages. In stocking outdoor 
aviaries, except during the warmer part of 
the year, be careful to secure birds that have 
hitherto been kept out-of-doors, or the change 
from indoors to out may mean the death of 
many of the birds. 

In stocking an aviarv. learn the habits of 
the birds, and fit the aviary up in accordance 
therewith. Also give the birds plenty of 
elbow-room, and keep only one sort to begin 
with, for to mix the sorts, unless done with 
judgment, may leaf! to some of the more 
timorous of the sorts having but a sorry time 
of it. A small outdoor aviary should always 
be roofed over, a large one should be about 
half-roofed. The site of the aviary should he 
chosen so as to assure shelter from the cold 
winds. 

Cages should never be hung in a draught, 
though plenty of fresh air should always be 
provided. For the health and comfort of the 
birds, the box type of cage, with but. the front 
wired, is the best, of any, the showy all-wire 
cage so frequently used for the housing of 
singing canaries providing nothing like so 
suitable quarters as a plain box with open 
fiont; though there is no reason why a- box 
cage should not be nicely coloured and 
ornamented. Bird-cages should be kept 
thoroughly clean, for dirt brings on bird- 


fever, a plague for the bird-keeper to avoid. 
It is a good plan to clean out the cages regu¬ 
larly twice a week, doing this thoroughly, 
and sprinkling clean sand over the floor. 
I' nod and water should be given every morn¬ 
ing. Have duplicate troughs and fountains, 
or water vessels, as Ibis makes for handiness 
in cleaning. Use glass, because glass is easy 
to clean. The seed-vessels should be polished 
twice a week ; the water-vessels should be 
carefully rinsed out daily, and washed out, 
thoroughly once a week.' It is the habit, of 
many bird keepers having a genuine fondness 
for their charges to offer, in addition to the 
ordinary bird-fare, scraps of anything in the 
way of human food that may be about. Now, 
many birds will readily cat much of such, 
hut it is mistaken kindness upon the part, of 
the bird-keeper, and moans the shortening of 
the life of his pets. Most birds, however, re¬ 
quire a little greenstuff or a little sound, ripe 
fruit, and it should he seen to that either 
one or the other is provided. 

Canaries and other finches keep their 
plumage clean by means of bathing, many 
birds of other sorts dusting instead of hath’- 
ing. With finches, therefore, give the chance 
of a bath twice or thrice a week during the 
summer, once a week in winter. Rain water 
is the best for bathing purposes. 

J. T. Bird. 

ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 
September 3rd. 

There was an excellent meeting on the above 
date, the hall being well filled with meri¬ 
torious exhibits, which drew a large and 
interested company during the afternoon. 
Hardy herbaceous plants. Gladioli, and 
Dahlias were in strong force, while the col¬ 
lections of fruit, and fruit-trees in pots were 
among the finest we have seen. Orchids were 
not numerously shown. There were many 
novelties before the floral committee, and of 
these eleven received the coveted award of 
merit. 

Prohably one of Hie most valuable and in¬ 
structive of the many exhibits before the 
floral committee was the collection of hardy 
Bamboos from the Messrs. Veitch and Sons, 
Limited, Chelsea. So far as we remember, 
no such collection has ever before been 
shown, and, in point of numbers of species, it 
wa. s practically unique. Altogether some fivu 
dozen distinct kinds were staged, and the 
plants, in specimen form, for the most part, 
and ranging from 2 feet, or thereabouts, to 
8 feet or 9 feet in height, gave an excellent 
idea of their worth in the garden. The 
plants had, obviously, been grown in the open 
air, and, therefore correctly demonstrated 
their true value. This important group re¬ 
ceived the gold medal. 

A sumptuous and well-disposed group of 
Cactus and other l)ahlia« was arranged by 
Messrs. Carter, Page, and Co., London Wall, 
E.C., in a much less formal manner than is 
usually seen, each variety being grouped 
separately in baskets of circular shape. In 
the majority of instances, a score of flowers 
represented each kind, so that the display 
was a large one. Much care was taken with 
the arrangement, and the blossoms were as 
naturally disposed as an exhibition permits. 
The Gladioli from Messrs. Kelway and Sons, 
Langport, were quite a feature," and bold, 
showy spikes, usually in threes, made a most 
imposing display. Hybrid Pentstemons from 
Lord Aldenham were of a high order of merit, 
an entire table being devoted to the well- 
flow’ered and handsome spikes. Mr. Amos 
Perry, Enfield, had a group of hardy plants 
particularly rich in Lilies, Sunflowers, 
Kniphofin-s, and the like, a very old Lychnis 
(L. grandiflorus) being brought into promi¬ 
nence again. The exhibits from Mr. H. B. 
May, Edmonton, are always of interest, and 
upon this occasion consisted of well-grown 
Bouvardias, Solanum jasniinoides, Ixoras, 
Sw’ainsonia galegifolia. and others. The 
Roses from Waltham Cross ( Wm. Paul and 
Son) were very fine, a large table being filled 
with an admirable assortment of the choicest 
and best, kinds, such ns never fail to please. 
Messrs. Gunn and Sons. Olton. Birmingham, 
made a fine display of their well-grown 
Phloxes, the handsome spikes in many dis¬ 
tinct shades of colour meriting much praise. 
Tree-Carnqtions were well shown by the 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



Dlull 



3S8 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


September 14, 1907 


Messrs. Wm. Cutbush and Sons, Highgatc, 
upon whose stand was seen the new white 
clove-seen ted kind, Mrs. T. Coulthwaite. It 
is a handsome flower, and freely produced. 
Double Tuberous Begonias from Mr. L. 
Gwillim, New Kltham, were very good, the 
large, shapely flowers in crimson, pink, 
orange, and other shades, being very attrac¬ 
tive. Messrs. Bull and Sons. Chelsea, showed 
a collection of stove plants with Orchids, and 
Messrs. Bunyard and Co. had an imposing 
display of hardy plants, Lilies, Montbretias. 
etc. Frank Cant and Co., Colchester, showed 
a nice lot of Roses, among which Irish Ele¬ 
gance was pleasing, while Messrs. J. Cheat 
and Sons, Crawley, had Dahlias and hardy 
flowers, a large group of the latter coming 
from Messrs. T. S. Ware, Limited, Feltham, 
Middlesex. Mr. L. R. Russell, Richmond, 
had hardy Fuchsias and other plants suited 
for walls, etc. Messrs. Jarman and Co., 
Chard, showed a fine assortment of Sweet 
Sultans in mauve, white, yellow, etc., the 
Messrs. W. Wells and Co. Limited, Rcdhill, 
starting the Chrysanthemum year with a good 
assortment of early flowering sorts. Messrs. 
Stark, Ryburgh. had Sweet Peas, the Misses 
Kipping hardy flowers and rock plant-s, while 
Mr. II. J. Jones, Lewisham, contributed a 
showy group of hybrid Fuchsias, hybrids of 
F. triphylla, etc. 

There were several large collections of 
fruit, and we.were particularly interested in 
that from Messrs. Cannell and Sons, Swanlev. 
all of which was grown in the open air. Of 
Plums alone some two dozen kinds were on 
view, large trays of each giving a good idea 
of their value. Apple and Pear-trees in pots 
were very numerous and well fruited. The 
firm also showed Damsons of sorts, Bullaces, 
and other fruits. The exhibit should be of 
untold interest to the amateur who possesses 
no orchard-house to perfect his fruits. 
Messrs. Geo. Bunyard and Co., Maidstone, 
also had a nice display of fruits, as Apples, 
Peaches, Nectarines. Plums, the latter in¬ 
cluding the Burbank variety. King’s Acre 
Company, Hereford, had a superb lot of 
orchard-grown fruit-trees in pots Figs, 
Grapes, Apples, Pears, and fan-trained 
Peaches in splendid form. One fan trained 
Peach, known as Sea-Eagle, carried two 
dozen grand fruits. The Messrs. Veitcli and 
Sons, Limited. Chelsea, likewise had a fine 
lot of pot-grown fruits—Figs, Apples, Plums, 
and Pears predominating. Mrs. Brace, 
Doveridge Hall, near Derby, had a choice lot 
of fruits, the Grapes being of fine colour and 
finish. Orchids were shown by Messrs. San¬ 
der. St. Albans; Mr. 11. J. Pitt, Stamford 
Hill; Mr. M. Mortens. Ghent; James Veitcli 
and Sons. Charlesworth and Co., Bradford, 
and Major Holford, Weston Birt, near 
Gloucester. Some excellent novelties were 
before this committee. 

A complete list of the medals awarded will 
be found in our advertising columns. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

Questions .—Qucrics and answers are inserted in 
(•All deni so free of charge if correspondents follow these 
rules: All commitment ions should be clearly and concisely 
written on one side of the paper only, and addressed to 
the Editor of Gardb'nino, 17 , Furnival-sfreet, I/olborn, 
London, E.C. Letters on business should be scut to the 
PuitiiisiiKR. The name and address of the sender arc 
required in addition to any designation he may desire to 
be used in the paper. Whim more than one query is sent, 
each should b?. on a separate, piece of paper, and. not more 
than three queries should be sent at a time. Correspon¬ 
dents should bear in.wind that, as Gardening has to be 
sent to press some time in advance of date, queries cannot 
always be replied to in the issue immediately following 
the receipt of their communication. We do nut rejily to 
queries by post. 

Naming fruit .—Headers who desire our help in 
naming fruit should bear in mind that several specimens 
in different- stages of colour and size of the, same kind 
greatly assist in its determination. We have received from 
'several correspondents single specimens of fruits for 
naming, thrsc in many cases being unripe ami other- 
wise poor. The differences ltd ween varieties of fruits are. 
in many cases so trifling that it is necessary that three 
specimens of each kind should be sent. We can undertake 
to name only four varieties at a lime, and these only when 
the abvoc directions arc observed. 


LAW AND CUSTOM. 


Smell from fried-fish shop —I live in a de¬ 
tached house in a village, and have done so for two 
years. Within the last month a tradesman has set up 
a fried-fish shop about 50 yards from my house. In 
the evenings the smell is unendurable. I asked him 
to abate the nuisance. He was very uncivil over it. 
and told me to make him stop the nuisance if I 
could, and that he would do nothing in the matter. 
The villagers do not particularly object to the smell. 
Can I do anything to stop it?—R. W. 

[Yes; you can apply for an injunction to' 
restrain the continuance of this nuisance, and 
for damages (if you can prove any). The law 
does not. allow a man to start an offensive 
trade where such was not already being 
carried on. Thus, if you had gone to reside 
in a house near a fried fish shop nlready in 
full swing, then you would not be able to de¬ 
mand its stoppage. But. in this case, the 
nuisance ha^ been brought to you who were 
already in residence, and so you have ground 
for complaint. You do not say whether you 
are owner or tenant. If the former, it will 
be worth while to try and stop it, as it will 
not add to the value of your property; but, 
if a tenant, you had better give notice to 
leave, and let your landlord know the reason. 
He may then see fit to help you.— Bar¬ 
rister.'] 


Digi 


Google 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

Rose Debutante (H. H. H .).—The (lowers of this 
are blush-pink. The line (rails of bloom and Ihc 
Sweet Brier fragrance of the foliage, all help to make 
this a useful Rose. It is one of the few \\ ichuraiana 
forms that will give some blooms in tin autumn. 

Treatment of Plumbago (J■ llorton).—The 
Plumbago may. after flowering, be treated very much 
as a Fuchsia, the main difference being that the soil 
of the Plumbago should always be kept moderately 
moist. For the winter months the plants should be 
given a good,- light position in the greenhouse. They 
must not be cut- down at all, but in the spring, before 
growth, recommences, if you wish to keep them com¬ 
paratively dwarf, they may be cut down to half their 
height. Still, if your main object is a display of 
flowers, you may leave the plants entirely unpruned. 

Lantanas (IF. Il'ood).—The flowers you send re¬ 
present hybrid forms of the above. There are many 
such. The Lantanas are South American plants, 
usually grown in the greenhouse, and also in the 
flmver-garden during the summer. The Verbena-like 
heads are rich and varied in colour, ranging from 
crimson through scarlet-orange and yellow to white, 
the colours varying in the same head. They are 
easily increased by cuttings in the spring, and should 
be given a warm position when planted out. The 
odour of the plants, as no doubt you will have 
noticed, i» somewhat unpleasant. 

Raising perennials from seed (A. it.).—You 
may sow perennial seeds now on a south border, 
letting the plants stand the winter in the seed-bed 
and planting out next May. You must not expect, 
being sown so late, trial many will bloom next year. 

The seed should have been sown in May or June. 

With ropeet to M a recital Niel Rose, it is best to cut 
away the old growths that have (lowered so soon as 
t he bloom is over, to lead to the formal ion of new 
strong growths, to ripen and earry flowers the fol¬ 
lowing year. It is too late to do that now, and, 
probably, your best course will be, in the winter, 
to save your strong branches, but cut close back all 
side shoots oil them. 

Potting various bulbs (Benj. Downes). - A suit 
able soil for the subjects enumerated may be made 
Up of three parts loam to one part each of well-de¬ 
cayed eow-inaiiure (dried), leaf-mould, and sand, the 
whole being thoroughly mixed together. The Gladio¬ 
lus Colville! may be potted live or six bulbs in a pot 
5 inches in diameter, or seven bulbs in a C-inch pot, 
the bulbs being buried at such a depth that the top 
of the bulb is 1 inch below the surface of the soil. 

After potting, the bulbs may be placed in a cold- 
frame, where, they can be allowed to remain till the 
spring, or, indeed, till the flowers show, when they 
must be removed into the conservatory. During the 
winter enough water should be given to keep the 
soil moist, but an excess must be guarded against, 
and in severe weather a mat or two thrown over the 
glass will help to keep off the frost. Plenty of air 
should be given when the weather is favourable. 

Tulipu retroflexa may he given much the same treat¬ 
ment. Lilium speciosum album must be potted singly 
into pots, 5 inches or 0 inches in diameter, according 
to the size of the bulb. In potting, space should, if 
possible, be left for a top dressing of rich soil, as the 
flower - stems lengthen and push out roots from 
their base. You will And a full and detailed ac¬ 
count of the treatment required by this Lily in 
Gardening Ilh strated for August. 17th, p. 824. 

Perennials from seeds (Langford Vicarage).— 

The perennials that you may sow at this time for 
flowering next year are very few indeed, and the few 
would certainly not appear in representative condi¬ 
tion. The seedlings should now be of good size, and 
tit for planting in their respective positions. For the 
purpose you require," the seeds should have been 
sown in April last, and seeds sown in September arc 
most likely to remain dormant till March or April 
next. This is the more likely, inasmuch as any 
seeds now' available would be but the residue of the 
harvest of 190U at least. We think it right to place 
this before you. You could, of course, presently sow 
Sweet Peas, Marigolds, Coreopsis, Cornflowers, and 
other annuals and biennials that would flower well 
next year, and, if need he, you could obtain seed¬ 
ling plants of Columbines, Gaillardias, Coreopsis 
grandiflora, Larkspurs, Antirrhinums, Carnations, 

Hollyhocks, Pentstemous, white and red perennial 
Pea, the white perennial Marguerites, and others 
that would flower quite well next year. In this way, 

UNIVERS 


with the addition of such annuals as Stocks. Asters, 
Sweet Sultans, the remarkable range of annual Chrys¬ 
anthemums. Godctias, Statiees, etc., together with a 
set of summer and early-flowering Chrysanthemums, 
a really good and useful display could be had for 
another season. If you adopt this plan, and decide 
to sow seeds of perennials for a future display, we 
could give you a list of subjects suited to sowing in 
February or March next, and in this way make sure 
of getting good plants for your purpose. 

TREES AND SHRUBS. 

Larch trees (Lord Kapier of Magdala ).—There is 
nothing about the Larch-shoots which you sent to 
show what is the cause of the injury. 'I here are no 
insects or fungi to be found on them. Probably, (he 
cause of the injury is nearer the root. If you would 
send up a specimen or two of t lie lower part of the 
stem 1 could probably toll you something about it. 
The young trees are not suffering from what is com¬ 
monly culled the Larch disease.—G. S. S. 

Azaleas after flowering (M. E. M. and E. Good¬ 
win).- After Azaleas have done flowering growth re¬ 
commences at once. and to encourage this the plants 
should be frequently syringed. They may at this 
period have a dose of weak soot-water about once a 
fortnight-. The plants should by midsummer be stood 
out-of-doors in order that the wood be thoroughly 
ripened, as a good deal of the future display of 
bloom depends upon this. Take great care that, the 
plants do not suffer from want of water when out - 
of-doors. Remove under cover when there is any 
danger from autumn frosts. If the plants need re¬ 
potting it should be done when the flowering is over, 
using onlv the best peat with plenty of silver sand, 
and potting firmly. Azaleas will grow and bloom 
well b*r years without beiug disturbed at. (lie rout:-. 
Any straggling shoots may be cut back, but do not 
prune more than is necessary, as the less cutting the 
better will be the show of blossoms. 


FRUIT. 

Fungus on Currant bushes (S. II. S.).- The 

leaves of your Currant-bushes are attacked by 
fungus, commonly known as the Currant-leaf spot 
(Gleosporium ribis). I do not think there is any¬ 
thing that you can do now to check the disease but to 
collect and burn the affected leaves—those that have 
fallen as well as those on the bushes. Next season, 
as soon as the disease makes its appearance, spray 
with dilute Bordeaux mixture or 1 oz. of sulphide of 
potassium dissolved in 2! gulls, of soft water.— 
G. S. S. ____ 

SHORT REPLIES. 

C. Stewart Lnmb.- The height, depends on the posi¬ 
tion in which the plants arc grown. If shaded, then 
the plants run up very tall, and this may bo the 
rase in regard to those plants which have reached 
such an abnormal height us that you mention.— — 
Caragh. 'Hie best tiling you can do is to syringe the 
plants with a solution of soft s«yp and ynassia ex¬ 
tract directly the plants start into growth, doing 
this several times in the course of the season.— -- 
Helling S.—Logan--berries to hand, but so smashed 
up and mixed up with the cottonwool you used tor 
packing them that it is quite impossible to dial with 
them. D. M. If. No; we fear you would have 

little chance of any success in such a position.- 

H. Dillon. — I. “Vines and Nine Culture,” Barron. 
From 13, Sutton court-road, Chiswick, London, \v 
> Perhaps the best time of all is during the early 
summer, about June. 


NAMES OF PLANTS AND FRUIT8. 


Names of plants. II. E. Bright . Hypericum 
ealycilium.— - IF. Wood. —1 and 2, Hybrid forms "t 

Lantana; 3, Fuchsia proeumbens.- E. F.— Epil"- 

biuin liirsutum.- V. S. T.— 8, l'robably TageU-s 

lueida; should like to see another specimen.- - 
N Lucy—1 he yellow- flowers you send are those of 
St’atice Bonduelli, the white mid purple blooms re¬ 
presenting forms of Static© sinuata. All are annuals 
which should bo raised from seed in the spring, and 

planted out when fit to handle.- Richards.— Bei- 

beris sp.; must see in bloom to name with any cer¬ 
tainty. D. C.— Campanula bononiensis. Mrs- 

Barthrop. — Aisculus macrostachya, now called parvi- 
flora; other next week.-.1. M.-Probably Hamian¬ 

thus tint few plants can be safely named from 

leaves alone.- F. A. A.-Probablv one of the small 

species of Rhus, but risky to name without flower or 
shoot. If vou send again, forward a portion of the 

shoot.- Miss Banks.-Campanula ranunculus (the 

Rampion); a pretty plant m wood, lawn or wild 

garden, where it can do no harm.- Urubby.- 

fiutoca Wrangeliana. 

Names of fruits.- -P- S. W. S -At this stage of 
growth, Pears are too like each other to be named. 
They should be seut when ripe or nearly ripe. I no 
same thing applies to Apples, except in the case of 
well marked varieties. No. 1 of yours is probablv 
the English Codlin; 4 is also a Codlin; but none arc 
mature enough for distinguishing with certainty; 3, 
Looks like the French Crab. 


Catalogues received —Daniels Bros., Norwich. 

List of Bulbs, Roses, Fruit-trees, etc. -It. veitcli 

and Son, Exeter .-List of Dutch Bulbs and Flower 

Roots for 1907. -Barr and Sons, 12, King-street, 

Covent-garden.— List of Hyacinths, Tulips, etc., also 

List of Daffodils. -Ralph Risk’ll, LidlinRtou, Ampt- 

hiil, .Beds.—Selected Roses. Clematises, ami Ca nm- 

fiona.-Gilbert and Sou, P.vke, Bourne, Lincoln.- 

Autumn Catalogue. -Jas. Carter and Co., High Hnl- 

born, W.C .-List of Bulbs. -H. Cannell and Sons, 

Swanley, Kent of Bulbs, Strawberries, and 
Violets. 


OF ILLINOIS i 
JRBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


No. 1,489.—Vox. XXIX. 


Founded by W. Robinson, Author of “ The English Floicer Garden 


SEPTEMBER 21, 1907. 


INDEX. 


390 

400 

389 

397 

390 

398 

393 
400 

394 
396 
400 


395 

397 


I Flowers for winter, cut- 
tin* dried 
FraxinuB Marieeii 
1 Fruit garden 
Fruit-trees, autumn 
pruning of 

I Fuchsias their winter 

I quarters. 

j Garden diary, extracts 

from a. 

I Gardeu, manure for 
I Garden work 
i Grapes, Bhanked.. 

I House leeks. Cobweb 
(Sempervivura ararh- 
I noideum vara).. 

! Hydrangeas, blue 
• Indoor plants 
Lapogerias, the.. 

Law and cub tom 

Lychnises. 

Mushrooms out - of 
doors . 


390 

Mushrooms under Elm- 
trees poisonous ? are 

396 ' 

39/ 

Onions, small, replant- 


398 

ing . 

397 


Orchard-house .. 

398 

337 

Outdoor garden .. 

398 


Outdoor plants .. 

392 1 

390 

Palms for the house .. 

398 


Pancratium niaritinium 

4UU 

398 

Pansy, Tufted, Ardwell 


1(H) 

Gem . 

394 

397 

Pansy, Tufted, seed- 


m 

lings . 

392 


Teach Barrington 

388 


Peach-trees 

388 

392 

Peaches for house 


39 1 

growth. 

388 

389 

Plants and flowers 

389 

389 

Plum, diseased Vie- 


398 

toria . 

100 

391 

Plums dropping .. 

388 

396 

Plums, English tvrau# 
foreign. 

387 


Plums failing 
Plums gumming . 
Polyanthus Narcissus.. 

Pond mud. 

Potato crop, the 

Poultry. 

Quick hedge 
Raspberry crop, the .. 
Rhubarb, forcing 
Room and window 
Rose Etoile du Franco 
Rose Friquet 
Hose Mile. Simone 
Beaume/ 

Rose Mine. Berkeley 
(Tea-scented).. 

Rose rust. 

RoBe Sophia King 
Rose Souvenir de Wm. 
Robinson 

Roses . 

Roses Beryl and Lady 
Mary Corry 


Roses for south border 400 
Roses for verandah .. 400 
Roses for west wall .. 400 

Roses, mildew on .. 391 
Roses, ordtring .. .. 392 

Roses, the bent, for 

forcing.391 

Spirasa Ard honyWaterer 397 

Store .39/ 

Tomatoes—tinal efforts 395 

Tree, small, for sea 

coast .400 

Trees and shrubs .. 397 
Tropwolum polyphyl- 

lum .400 

Vallota.400 

Vegetable garden .. 398 

Vegetables .. .. 395 

Vinery, early .. .. 398 

Water Lilies .. .. 400 

Weeds on lawn .. 400 

Week's work, the com¬ 
ing .39S 


American-blight .. 388 Chrysanthemums - rl- 
Annuals at flower shows 392 ! pening the wood 
Apple-tree leaves, dis- Chrysanthemums, two 

eased. 388 I early-dowering 

Apples, scarcity of .. 387 Chrysanthemums Wells 

Aralias . 390 j Scarlet, early .. 

Asrlepias curasBavica.. 395 Clematis, injured 

Asparagus-bed, weak .. 397 Clianthus pumccus and 
Aucubas, propagating.. 397 its white variety 

Bee*.399 : Conservatory 

Begonia coccinea 399 | Conservatory, window.. 

Birds .39*9 | Cucumbers, early 

Borders, mixed, near Dahlias. 

trees . 393 Duckweed 

Bulbs, flowering, for Edgings for spring 

Christmas 390 1 Endive . 

Calceolarias, herba- Eseallonias 

ceous, winter treat- I False Bugbaue (Traut- 

ment of. 390 vetteria palmata. syn., 

Carnation Cecilia 395 Actiea palmata), the.. 

Carrots, young winter.. 396 i Ferns under glass 
Celery, earthing-up .. 396 j Flower-garden, water- 
Chryxanthemums .. 390 1 ing the. 


FRUIT, 

AUTUMN PRUNING OF FRUIT-TREES. 
Any wounds caused to a tree during its grow¬ 
ing state heal over a deal better than if the 
growth is dormant; consequently, this is a 
very good reason why a part of the priming 
—at any rate, previous to the leaves falling- 
may be carried out during the present season. 
This has special reference to those trees 
which are in a crowded condition through 
ihe branches being too thickly together. 
What are termed pyramids often are like this, 
and with the exception of the outer edge of 
ihe tree very little of the centre ever sees the 
light ; consequently, the branches arc devoid 
of fruit spurs. By pruning the trees at this 
reason it may plainly be seen at a glance what 
branches are’to be cut out, and, this being the 
case, the wounds will quickly heal over and 
the other parts be benefited accordingly. 
Even on wall trees the spurs often arc too 
close, especially in the case of Pears. Again, 
the spurs are often of such an inordinate 
length as not to feel the full benefit of the 
wall. With a judicious system of shortening, 
they may be gradually worked back until 
they are almost in close contact with the wall. 
The spurs must not be cut right back to the 
main stern, for if such should be the case, 
they would fail to break out afresh. Cutting 
back to within an inch is a safe distance, and, 
being done at this season of the year, it tends 
to plump up any lateral buds, which will 
Mart with renewed vigour when the spring 
comes round. Too many spurs must not be 
removed at one time, not but that they would 
start into growth, but where a renovating pro¬ 
cess is being carried out it should be so 
arranged that, there is but little loss of fruit 
in subsequent seasons. Not only in the ease 
of Pears, but also Apricots and Plums may 
have old or thickly-placed spurs thinned out 
with advantage. At this season of the year, 
or as soon as the fruit is gathered, I make it 
a practice to go over all the wall trees- 
especially Pears—and shorten back still 
further the shoots which may have been left 
to five or six leaves at what is termed the 
summer pruning. Naturally, the shoots can¬ 
not be shortened back too closely during the 
summer, on account of not unduly forcing the 
basal buds, which are needed for forming 
fruit-buds instead of further woody growth. 
These stubby growths being now shortened 
back still further, it gives the fruit-buds the 
opportunity of becoming plumper without the 
fear of their being forced into growth. 

With Peaches and Nectarines it is gener¬ 
ally looked upon n-s the correct mode of pro¬ 
cedure. directly after the fruit is gathered, to 
cut out all superfluous growth not required 
for the extension of the tree, and, considering 
the undoubted benefits which certainly accrue 
from such practice, I do not see any reason 
to relax the rule. With well managed trees 
wholesale cutting out is never necessary, as 
there is never a superabundance to remove, 
and after going over the^rees I hftve often 

Digitized by GOOQ 1C 


been surprised at the small quantity, com¬ 
paratively speaking, which has had to be re¬ 
moved. The benefits arising from what 1 
may term autumn pruning more than counter¬ 
balance any extra labour expended, and in 
stead of the trees being injured they are 
reatly benefited. On account of the season 
eing so far advanced, any cutting out or 
shortening back will not have any effect on 
extra extension of young and soft growths, 
the extra force rather being expended in the 
plumping up of the fruit-buds, and, conse- 
quentlv, their more perfect maturation. 

F. 


ENGLISH VERSUS FOREIGN PLUMS. 
Everywhere one hears the same remark, 

‘ How plentiful are the Plums, and at what 
ruinous prices are they sold in the London 
markets!” The question is, What profits 
can the grower get from his land and labour? 
and what encouragement is there for any 
further extension in planting? When Plums 
are sold by the com mission-agents at an 
average of 5 Lb. for a penny, and out of this, 
labour, tolls, cartage, commission, and other 
incidental expenses have to be met, there 
surely cannot be fortunes made out of Plum¬ 
growing. It is, however, only in the large 
orchard districts where this stress of over¬ 
burdened markets is felt, and presumably 
the small grower suffers in much greater pro¬ 
portion than his neighbour who deals in tons 
daily in the same markets. On page 3G0 I 
note ”A. D.” bewails the fact that in going 
through the local markets he found no Plums 
fit for dessert provided by the home pro¬ 
ducer. It certainly does seem strange that 
such a state of things should be possible, be¬ 
cause, though there is no plethora of dessert 
kinds, there certainly are some sorte which 
ought to be doing service. . He very rightly 
criticises the British methods of marketing, 
and draws unfavourable comparisons between 
ours and the French fruit. I agree with 
“A. D.” that the English grower is far be¬ 
hind his French rival in fruit grading and 
paoking, and there seems no possible reason 
why early and late supplies, at any rate, 
are not presented for sale oil the same lines 
as the French fruits are. It would not pay 
to do this in a glutted season. 1 have no 
experience of the quality of the fruit in the 
French packages. They are most temptingly 
displayed, but whether the quality found in 
fully ripened English fruits is present* I am 
unable to say. This much, however, is quite 
certain—that our fruits, plucked in an im¬ 
mature state, never assume a satisfactory 
flavour. 

Climate must make considerable difference 
in fruit-preservation and flavour, otherwise 
we could not receive Plums from over the 
seas—even from California—so fresh, full- 
flavoured, and well-preserved. Much of our 
fruit, with only local journeys and usage, de¬ 
cays from differing, though not readily appa¬ 
rent, causes. What would our Plums be like 
if cent so many miles across the sea? To me 
it would seem there are a tougher skin and 


lees sensitive pulp in foreign fruits, or, as I 
have already said, there would be more loss. 
We boast that our fruits equal, if not excel, 
those grow n in any foreign land, but I am not. 
quite sure whether, generally speaking, it 
can be wholly claimed to be so. Foreign 
fruits necessarily have to be gathered in an 
immature state, and these have to be pitted 
against ours, which usually are gathered al¬ 
most or quite ripe—scarcely a fair compari¬ 
son. 

The season now passing has already become 
notorious for low quality of its fruit a« re¬ 
gards flavour, and I have satisfied mvself that, 
our better kinds of dessert Plums are of poor 
flavour when they are gathered too soon. 
Even Greengages fail in the flavour te«t when 
gathered too early. ”A. IV’ complains that 
growers do not thin their Plum crops, so as 
to give the trees a better opportunity of de¬ 
veloping a higher class sample. It may to 
th? casual mind appear a matter easily dealt 
with, blit I find there i« no sale for Plum- 
thinnings, and thus there is no immediate 
profit on the labour spent on thinning. In 
the case of garden trees, especially those 
grown on walls, thinning is not so formid¬ 
able an operation, and can usually be done; 
but in the hundred acre orchard of standard 
trees this could not be done. The wall-grown 
tree provides the finest samples of dessert. 
Plums. Those obtained from standard grown 
trees cannot compare with them either in 
sample, appearance, or quality. Plums, to 
be attractive to the full, must have the bloom 
undisturbed, or only slightly so. No doubt 
fruit retailers would welcome the introduc¬ 
tion of a system of grading and packing our 
English fruits. It would, however, seem 
that something more than individual effort 
is needed to start such a movement; and, as 
it has been so often urged in the horticultural 
press, some (lay we may see this pressing 
reform carried out. \V. S. 


SCARCITY OF APPLES. 

This country will have to depend largely 
upon imported fruit in the coming winter 
and spring, and it behoves those who have a 
moderate supply to take every care of what is 
suitable for storing. Needless to say, it is 
useless to store small, deformed, or maggoty 
fruit; hut the finest specimens should receive 
more than usual pains in gathering at the 
proper time if full value is expected. Apples 
that are past their best by Christmas should 
be stored in a less degree than late-keeping 
varieties, such tu* Lane’s Prince Albert, 
Beauty of Kent, Rymer, Newton Wonder, 
Annie Elizabeth. Wellington, Adam’s Pear- 
rnain, Ribston, and a few others. A mistake 
too often made is in gathering too soon, 
with the result that shrivelling sets in often 
before the New Year arrives, and conso 
quently such fruit i« worthless. Each fruit 
should, when gently raised, come off easily, 
with stem attached ; on the other hand, when 
not ready to gather, many a good fruit gets 
pulled out of the stem, which often ends in 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 

































383 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


September 21, 1007 


decay setting in there. A few words must be 
written anont the Apple store, upon which 
not a little depend the keeping qualities of 
each fruit. Firstly, it should be clean, well 
ventilated, and so built or placed that a nice 
even temperature is maintained—not warm, 
though—a cool structure being by far the best 
place for Apples. This is why such stores 
are usually on the north side of higher build¬ 
ings. so that the sun’s rays do not cause fluc¬ 
tuation. In the gathering season the win¬ 
dow or windows may be left open, and remain 
so for a week or so after the last fruits are 
placed in, as they are sure to sweat a little, 
especially if put in bulk. Secondly, store 
none but sound fruit, and handle each one 
as though it were a soft-shelled egg, as one 
of your correspondents recently said. 

Bkton. J. Mayne. 

PEACH BARRINGTON. 

This, one of our best mid-season Peaches, 
was raised by a Mr. Barrington, at Bur wood, 
Surrey. The shape, as may be seen by our 
illustration, is roundish, rather pointed at 
the end, and with a well-defined suture. 
The colour, when the fruit is quite ripe, is 
deep red on the side next the sun, on the 
shaded side yellowish green, the flesh vel- 
lowish-white, reddening towards the centre. 
The flavour is very rich and juicy. The tree 
is a vigorous and healthy grower, and, as a 
rule, crops very freely. 

The late Mr. Blackmore, 


drainage, seeing that you have watered 
I copiously, and have supplied stimulants with 
a far too liberal hand. The unhealthiness 
may, on the other hand, be the result of the 
j 6tock being either unsuitable or unhealthy, 
or what gardeners term a “bad” stock, and 
if so there is no cure. The only thing w r e 
can advise you to do is to lift the roots early 
next month, when, if our suspicions are 
realised, you will find the greater part of 
them in a dead or dying condition. In this 
case, root up the tree, and replant after 
removing the old soil and substituting fresh 
from another source in its stead. If. on the 
contrary, the roots are sound, lift the tree 
bodily, and lay it in by the heels near by for 
the time being. Dig a hole some 3 feet or 
4 feet square, or an equivalent thereto, from 
2A; feet to 3 feet in depth. In the bottom 
place some G inches in thickness of broken 
bricks, and cover with a few whole turves, 
Grass side downwards. Then fill the cavity 
with fresh compost, consisting largely of 
turfy loam, with some calcareous matter, such 
as old lime rubble pounded fairly fine and 
bone-meal added. If not convenient to sub¬ 
stitute all new soil for the old, make use of 
.as much fresh material as you possibly can. 
as the roots of Peach-trees appreciate such 
attention, and it always pays to plant them 
well at the outset. Regarding the use of 
stimulants, where a tree is well cropped, 


when growing this variety 
in the open air at Ted- 
dington, found it was shy 
bearing, and seldom 
ripened thoroughly. It 
used to be grown in the 
gardens of the Royal 
Horticultural Society, at 
Chiswick, on a wall fac¬ 
ing south, and we found 
that it always cropped 
freely, the fruit being 
large and finely flavoured, 
ard ripening during the 
second and third weeks 
in September. We should 
like to have the experi¬ 
ence of readers as to the 
value of this Peach for 
the open air. 

yOTES Ay D REPLIES. 
American ■ blight (A. 

]<]. L.).— Do not cut down 
your blight, - infested 
Apple-trees, but cleanse 
them. Get a pail, put 
into it l lb. of soft soap, 
a little soda, and fill up 



Peach Barrington at Gravetye Manor, East Grin stead. 


with boiling water. Stir 

till the soap is dissolved, and at once, 
whilst hot, with the aid of a large, half- 
worn paint brush, well wash out the blight. 
Then make up a paste of clay, and into this 
which soak half a pint of paraffin, and 
add i lb. of soft soup; then add boiling 
water. The mixture must be thick enough to 
make a paste, which, worked over every part 
where the insects are left, will coat them in 
and kill by suffocation, or by poisoning them. 
It will be wise before adopting the latter 
course to pare ofT smoothly the rough edges 
of the bark where the insects are. as then 
they can the more easily be coated in. Treat¬ 
ment of this kind, followed up yearly, settles 
the pest eventually. In small cases, just 
daubing them with paraffin suffices. 

Peach trees. -Would you kindly advise me ns to 
one of my Peach-trees? It. is a young tree, placed 
two years ago on a south wall (Hale’s Early). It bore 
eight nr nine Peaches. All the season it has been 
flagging, and now, on my return after an absence of 
three weeks, the leaves over the whole of the trees 
are similar to the specimen 1 enclose. I should be 
very grateful for any advice as to its treatment. 
It has had two mulches of manure, some soot, and 
two or three small applications of guano, and has 
been copiously watered since the spring. A Peach¬ 
tree next it (lloyal George) has had similar treat- 


assist the roots by all means in your power ; 
but when fruitless, or nearly so, the surface 
mulch, in conjunction with the necessary sup¬ 
plies of clear water, should suffice in the case 
of young trees.] 

Plums failing.—I have a tree in my garden 
very heavily laden with Plums, but a great many of 
them are distorted like the few I send you now\ I 
should be obliged if you could tell me the cause? 
The tree ia two or three years old.—M rs. T. F. 
Walker. 

[The cause of the Plums being malformed 
is through their having been injured by frost 
soon after they had set. One side only, and 
that, no doubt, the exposed side, of the fruits 
was injured by the frost, the mischief being 
deeply enough seated to afFoet the stone, yet 
not sufficiently so to cause the fruits to drop. 
It is not a common occurrence, although we 
have witnessed the same thing before. The 
only th?hg you can do is to pick and destroy 
them, as they are useless. The fruits which 
arc sound will benefit thereby.] 

Plums dropping — I have two fine Plum-trees 
(Coe’s Golden Prop) on back wall of my cold 
orchard-house. There was a splendid show for fruit 
both last year and this, and nearly every blossom 
seemed to set. After a time, however, and when still 


rnent. and is in perfect health.—E. J- T. 

[We fear the root system of vour Peach-tree 
is radically wrong, otherwise the foliage 
would not flag, neither would the leaves be in 
such a debilitated condition and so under¬ 
sized. This may arise from the soil about the 
roots being waterlogged, owinc to faulty 

Digitized by GOOgle 


quite small, all the fruit dropped off. 1 u front, up 
the lean-to glass slope, are three Peach-trees; they 
! quite shade the Plum-trees, except just at the top. 
Do you think this is the cause of the Plum-trees not 
hearing? I am conlident the bed (a greasy, stiflish 
loam) is all right, the Peach-trees bearing splendid 
crops.—E ast Anglian. 

[The failure of vour Plums is entirely due 

L 


to the shade cast by the Peaches. These 
prevent the w’ood getting ripened, and hence 
the failure of the blooms to set properly. 
You cannot expect anything in the way of 
fruit-trees to succeed in such a position.] 

Shanked Crapes (CatalpaJ .—Your Grapes 
are suffering from a trouble called shanking, 
one that seems to be very common this sea¬ 
son, owing to the low temperature and lack 
of sunshine. In your ease, the probable 
cause is the roots of the Vine in question 
have gone into sour or wet soil, as they so 
soon do if they have not properly made bor¬ 
ders, and because unable to furnish to the 
Grapes their proper food or constituents. 
Shanking, which is a form of fungus, attneks 
the stems of the berries, withers them, then 
the berries follow, and they decay as yours 
have. Can you early in the winter face the 
remedy by removing the soil over the Vine- 
roots down to them, lifting all roots, care¬ 
fully removing some of the old, sour soil be¬ 
low, replacing it with other sweet and good, 
then replacing the roots less deep, and cover¬ 
ing them with fresh, good soil? Also add a 
little bone-flour and plenty of wood-ashes to 
the soil. Destroy all diseased Grapes. 

Peaches for house growth (Constant 
Reader).— In a lean-to house, lfi feet wide, 
in which it is purposed to plant Peaches and 
Nectarines, so far north as Dundee, it will 
be wise to omit late ripening varieties. Of 
Nectarines you cannot have two better than 
Early Rivers and Lord Napier. Of Peaches, 
get Amsden June. Early Grosse Mignonne, 
Royal George, Stirling Castle, and Sea Eagle. 
Plant the first three on the wire trellis, and 
the two latter on the wall as riders. As 
your house is but 25 feet long, we do not see 
how you can find room for more than throe 
trees on the front trellis, as each tree should 
have 12 feet of run. at least. The same may 
he said for the back wall, as we presume you 
do not propose to plant low-trained trees 
there. However, if you want more Peaches, 
add Dymond. Before you plant, make a good 
border of solid, half-decayed pasture turves, 
mixed with which should be wood-ashes, old 
mortar refuse, some bone-dust and scot, all 
trodden quite firm. 

Diseased Apple-tree leaves (Iiobeston).— 
Complaints of the serious attacks of insect 
pests on Apple leafage are numerous this 
year. In so many districts where late frosts 
and very low temperature checked leaf 
action, insects preyed upon the foliage 
severely, and your leaves seem to be suffer¬ 
ing from the same cause. Owing to cold, 
especially nights, sap action was poor, then 
aphis, preying on the low sap supply, was fol¬ 
lowed by red-spider, practically finishing up 
the leaves. Collect all leaves as they fall, and 
often, and burn them. No appreciable good 
can be done now' by spraying, as the leafage 
will soon all be down. But after that a 
couple of sprayings—one next month, one in 
December, on dry days, with the caustic 
soda solution, the liquid so often described 
in these pages—should fully cleanse the trees. 
Give them liberal top dressings of manure 
next spring. If you could remove the top 
soil, and replace with quite fresh, good would 
result. 

The Raspberry crop.- This has. I should 
imagine, been one of the heaviest on record, 
and, although climatic conditions have been 
so unfavourable, the loss from this cause has 
been but trifling with me. The fruit lias not 
only been abundantly produced, but it has 
also been very fine, some varieties, naturally, 
surpassing others in this respect, but all, 
without exception, being larger than usual. 
As the crop is now practically over for the 
season—that, is, so far as the summer-fruiters 
are concerned—the old canes should be cut 
out w-ithout further delay, after which the cur¬ 
rent season’s growths had better be looked 
over, cutting away all weaklings and thinning 
out the stronger where they stand too close 
together, to allow of the canes becoming 
ripened. Then tie them loosely to the trellis 
or stakes, as the case may be, when the space 
between the rows will be clear for wheel¬ 
ing in the manure on the first convenient 
opportunity. The earlier this is done, within 
reason, the better the succeeding year’s re- 
suits will b^—A. \V. 

JNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 







StrTEMDKR 21, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


:is9 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

INDOOR PLANTS. 

CLIANTHUS PUNICEUS AND ITS 
WHITE VARIETY. 

This New Zealand plant is popularly known 
by the names of ParrotVs-bill and Lobster- 
flaw. It is an old denizen of our gardens, 
having teen introduced more than seventy 
years ago. In Devon and Cornwall it is quite 
common, being found in most gardens, and 


it is not until the month of May that it is at 
| its best. Then the whole wall it* an unbroken 
sheet of bright crimson. This plant is 17 feet 
in height. Six feet away, on the same south 
wall, is the white variety, introduced a few 
I years ago. This is at present only 7 feet in 
1 height, hut flowers quite ns freely as the 
1 type. The blossoms are not a pure snow- 
I white, but have a greenish tinge, and, where 
' there is only room for one, the type should 
certainly be selected, as it is far more strik- 
I ing. However, when the two are grown on 
the same wall, they make a pleasing contrast. 

! The largest plant of the type that I know’ 



White Clianthus. 


in that district is perfectly hardy. Where it 
can be grown in the open, it is. deservedly a 
favourite, since it presents, in May, a glo¬ 
rious sheet of bright colour that is rivalled by 
nothing but the Fire-bush (Embothrium coc- 
cineum). It is generally grown against a 
wall, but I have met w ith specimens in bush 
form flowering well. It is, however, certainly 
seen at its best on a wall, as it presents a 
larger expanse of colour than when grown in 
bush form. Here the crimson type usually 
commences to flower in mid-winter, and for 
the past three years I have picked one or 
two expanded blooms just before Christmas 
Day. From that date onwards the blossoms 
are borne in slowly increasing numbers, but 

Digitized by GCL glC 


reaches the eaves of the house on which it 
is growing, and must be considerably over 
20 feet in height. Seed saved from the white 
variety often throws back to the crimson 
type. 

Here, as soon as the flowers have faded, 
they are carefully cut off. Were they al¬ 
lowed to remain, many hundreds of seed-pods 
w’ould be formed, which would inevitably 
weaken the plants considerably. As soon as 
the flowers are removed, the plants are 
heavily syringed every evening, and this is 
continued during the whole growing season. 
Were this not done, they would become dust- 
dry. as the eaves prevent the rain from 
reaching them. When they become dry they 


are attached by green fly, which weaken them 
so that little new growth is made; but with 
copious nightly syringing these posts never 
make their appearance. 

S. W. Fitziierbert. 

South Devon. 


THE LAPAGERIAS. 

The first Lapageria to be introduced into 
this country was Lapageria rosea, which was 
discovered and sent here in the year 1848 by 
William Lobb, when travelling in Southern 
Chili for Messrs. Veitch and Sons, then of 
Exeter. On the same journey, that cele¬ 
brated collector was the means of intro¬ 
ducing, beside the Lapageria. several other 
very beautiful plants—viz., Embothrium coo* 
eineum, Escallonia inacrantha, Philesia buxi- 
folia, and Desfontainea spinosa, as well as 
many of less interest. The form with pure 
white blossoms, known as Lapageria alba, 
was introduced about, half-a-dozen years 
later, and for a very long time it was a de¬ 
cidedly expensive plant compared with Lapu- 
geria rosea. Both the white and red flowered 
forms show' a good deal of individual varia¬ 
tion, the flowers of some being much supe¬ 
rior to others. This variability is, of course, 
much more marked in the coloured kind than 
in the white, but still, in the case of the last, 
it exists to a certain extent. 

A very fine, deep-coloured form, with par¬ 
ticularly long blossoms, is known as the is ash 
Court variety. This was given a first-class 
certificate by the Royal Horticultural Society 
in 1884, and it can now be obtained from 
most nurseries. The term superha has been 
applied many times to different individuals, 
not all of which merit such a varietal name, 
but some have large and richly-coloured 
flowers, so that such a title is by no means 
misplaced. In 1897 a very superior form, 
known as the Warnham Court variety, was 
awarded a first-class certificate, and an award 
of merit was bestowed upon the Knoll variety 
two years later. 

In common with most Chilian plants, 
the Lapageria needs a lil>eral amount 
of atmospheric moisture, with no more heat 
than is necessary to keep out the frost. 
Owing to this, it is an ideal subject for cloth¬ 
ing the roof of a fernery, where fire heat only 
is used during the winter. It is not very 
amenable to culture in pots, as the stout, 
fleshy roots penetrate at once to the bottom, 
and, when thickly matted, decay often sets 
in. To see the Lapageria at its best, it needs 
to he planted out in a well-drained border. 
The compost for the roots should be made up 
of turfy peat, with an admixture of fibrous 
loam, silver sand, nodules of charcoal, and 
brick rubble. This will remain fresh and 
sweet for a considerable time, and readily 
allow the free passage of water. A sharp 
look out must be kept for slugs, which readily 
devour the succulent Asparagus like shoots. 
In the favoured part of these islands, the 
Lapageria may be regarded ns hardy, or 
nearly so, but, generally speaking, it must 
be considered as a greenhouse subject. Wh^n 
complaints as to the non-success of this 
beautiful climber are looked into, it is 
usually found that the main cause of failure 
is the dryness of the atmosphere, as, trained 
near the glass, the leaves are much exposed, 
and consequently they become attacked by 
thrips and other insect pests. True, these 
can be destroyed by vaporising, but unless 
the conditions are altered, they are soon 
troublesome again. 

A near ally of the Lapageria is Philesia 
buxifolia. a little, dense, bushy plant, witii 
leaves after the manner of those of the Box, 
and flowers exactly like a miniature Lapa¬ 
geria. A most interesting hybrid was raised 
bv fertilising a flower of Lapageria rosea 
with the pollen of this Philesia. It originated 
in Messrs. Veiteh’s nursery at Chelsea, where 
it first flowered as long ago as 1872. but it 
was not put into commerce till seven ycais 
later. It. has always remained a most un¬ 
common plant, and the price of half-a- 
guinea, at which it was distributed, remains 
to the present day- Philageria Veitehi is 
the name given to this hybrid, which shows 
a marked blending of the main characteris¬ 
tics of its 'parents, the flexuose growth being 
much less vigorous than in the Lapageria, 
while the leaves and flowers arc about mid- 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
‘ URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 







390 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


September 21, 1907 


way between the two. The colour ot the 
•trooping blossoms is deep red. The cultural 
requirements of this Philagcria are the same 
as that needed by its parents. X. 


NOTES AND EE FLIES. 
Flowering bulbs for Christmas (Hove). 
—You have set us a hard task when you in¬ 
quire how to produce early-flowering bulbs 
for Christmas without being forced. The 
thing is impossible, and with a greenhouse 
that, merely keeps out frost, especially so. 
To obtain what you are anxious for, the most 
practical of market growers have to main¬ 
tain temperatures varying from 50 degs. to 
70 degs. for weeks in succession, and this 
witty special contrivances to boot. You ap 
pear to be overlooking the fact that in a 
greenhouse just excluding frost the plants 
would be at a standstill, and would so remain 
until the solar heat increased. You might 
try some pots of Crocus, Snowdrop, Chiono- 
doxa, Iris reticulata, etc., as among the ear¬ 
liest things to flower, but the ordinary bulbs, 
such as Roman Hyacinths, Tulips, and the 
like would not answer your purpose. You 
might, of course, use the greenhouse for the 
bulbs, and, if potted early, a flowering would 
ensue probably in February. If you could 
increase the temperature to 45 degs. as a 
minimum, you might., by arranging the pots 
of bulbs in a darkened box over the hot-water 
pipes, and by affording plenty of moisture, 
considerably hasten the flowering of the 
things named.—E. J. 

Fuchsias- their winter iiuarters.— At the 

end of a season—particularly so if the green¬ 
house is packed with bedding and other 
plants—Fuchsias do not always have a fair 
chance. They either get pushed out of the 
way and forgotten in some corner, where 
cither they are dried up or are subject, to 
drip, both of which are fatal to their 
well-being. There is no need, however, to 
keep them on the stage, as the question cf 
light is not so important for the next few 
months, and if they can be accommodated in 
a cool place, like a polling shed, for instance, 
away from frost, this will meet their require¬ 
ments for a time. Towards February they 
should be brought into heat, their shoots 
trimmed, and repotted if necessary. Failing 
a potting-shed, a place under the stage, out 
of reach of the hot-water pipes, will answer.— 
Leahukst. 

Begonia coccinea.— Any attempt to grow 
this Begonia in pots will only end in com¬ 
parative failure, as under such conditions the 
growth will be weak and the flowers few. If 
planted out in some good soil in a warm 
greenhouse, the result is altogether different, 
for it will push up stout Bamboo-like shoots 
from 6 feet to 10 feet in height. The leaves, 
from 4 inches to 6 inches long, are green, 
with reddish margins, while the flowers’ 
borne in drooping clusters, are of a bright 
coral-red colour. These blossoms remain 
fresh and bright for a considerable time. It 
is a very old species in gardens, having been 
introduced by Messrs. James Veitch and Sons 
in 1841. A very pretty hybrid Begonia of 
considerably dwarfer habit’ than the preced¬ 
ing has been obtained by fertilising the small 
white-flowered South Africnn B. Dregei with 
the pollen of B. coccinea. It more nearly re¬ 
sembles its male parent than it does the 
other, but still the influence of B. Dregei has 
had a considerable dwarfing effect on the pro¬ 
geny. In B. carminata the flowers are of a 
bright carmine-pink colour, and the female 
ones last a long time.—X. 

Winter treatment of herbaceous Calceo¬ 
larias.— In making arrangements for the re¬ 
moval of herbaceous Calceolarias from the 
frame to the greenhouse, it must be borne in 
mind that they dislike anything in the way of 
forcing, and therefore the time for their re¬ 
moval to the house must, to a large extent, 
depend upon the weather. If it proves a 
mild October, and provision can be made to 
place mats over the lights at night (especially 
if the frames are in a warm corner under a 
wall), there need not be any very great liurrv. 
but unless these conditions obtain, it is not 
wise to defer the duty too long. When in 
the house, the coolest part should be as¬ 
signed them, and, to prevent their becoming 

Digitized by (jQ' >q1C 


drawn and lanky, a shelf not far away from 
the glass will be found best. They'ought 
not to be permitted to get dry very often, 
as this will engender green-fly, and when 
once these pesU have got hold, it is not an 
easy matter to eradicate them. Cool culture 
and steady growth will result in the pLants 
being gradually built up, and it is then when 
one may look for good trusses of bloom.— 
Leahurst. 

Aralias. —These are most accommodating 
plants, and come in very useful for table 
decoration, especially in the winter time, 
when, owing to artificial light, other plants 
do not keep in good condition for long to¬ 
gether in a room. I do not think that among 
owners of small houses it is generally known 
how easy Aralias may be raised from seed 
sown in heat in spring, and from such a sow¬ 
ing plants by this time of the year will have 
attained a nice size. They are convenient, 
when placed in thumb-pots, to drop into 
fancy pots or vases, but, in order to prevent 
their being dried up in so small a pot, it is a 
good plan to partly fill the vase with Cocoa- 
nut-fibre. Aralias so cultivated make capital 
plants after a year’s growth, and many will 
find them- preferable to keeping old ones.— 
WOODBASTWICK. 


CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

RIPENING THE WOOD. 

This is an important point to consider if 
blooms of the highest class arc wished for, 
because it is absolutely impossible to obtain 
them if the wood of the plants is immature. 
Many growers fail in their desire to produce 
perfect blooms of Chrysanthemums through 
no other reason but this. It is more appa¬ 
rent in blooms of the incurved section than 
in Japanese and other kinds, as in the former 
kinds depth and solidity in the flowers are 
essential points. I have' seen plants of what 
might be termed immense strength in both the 
wood and foliage alike, but which at flower¬ 
ing time produced blooms large in diameter, 
having coarse petals, but far too few of them, 
these showing a far greater tendency to re 
flex than to incurve. This defect was owing 
entirely to the wood being badly ripened. 
The greatest of all faults is not making the 
soil firm enough at the last potting. Under 
fiueli conditions the roots ramble away into 
the new loose soil, and the growths are soft 
and devoid of that hard, wood-like character 
eo desirable. Using soil of too rich a nature, 
and the excessive application of stimulants, 
such as nitrate of soda, induce an undesirable 
luxuriance of growth. This may be pleasing 
to those who do not thoroughly understand 
its nature, but it is nevertheless deceptive, 
for the tissues are not solidified. Overcrowd¬ 
ing the plants is another common source of 
badly ripened wood; the stems under such 


light, thorough attention to supplying their 
wants with water, never giving them more 
than is necessary, and at no time exciting 
them unduly with too strong stimulants; by 
following these few simple details, growers 
never need fear the results of immaturity of 
growth. There is no such thing as growing 
the plants very strong and ripening them 
suddenly, as some aver there is. The growth 
from the cutting until the time the flowers 
expand meat be built up gradually. 

NOTES AND EE PLIES. 

„, T "fo early flowering Chrysanthemums. - 

Would you kindly name two Pompon and two 
Japanese Chrysanthemums which would be in bloom 
early in September, either in pots or the open 
ground?—C elosia. 

[You do not say at which period of the 
month you want the plants to be at their best. 
We will, therefore, assume it is for the 
latter half of September. A really^handsome 
Pompon is Orange Pet. This is rather larger 
than most early-flowering Pompons, but it 
is such a good sort that it must be included in 
this selection. The colour is bronzv-orange, 
and the plant is about feet high. ' Mrs. E. 
Stacey is another excellent little Pompon. 
The colour may be described as deep apricot, 
and the plant attains a height of about 
16 inches. Two suitable Japanese varieties 
are : Polly, a large, full flower, borne freely 
on plants with a good, sturdy habit of 
growth ; colour, orange-amber; height, 2 feet; 
and Goacher’s Crimson, a handsome and re¬ 
liable chestnut-crimson variety. It is a most 
consistent plant, and flowers very freely; 
height, 2» feet.] 

.Early Chrysanthemums Wells’ Scarlet.- 

Although the descriptive name i.s “Scarlet,” the 
colour can hardly be regarded as such. It is an in¬ 
tensely rich and bright tone of crimson, with a golden 
reverse-a colour that adds a great amount of warmth 
to the border in the autumn months. The flowers 
are of beautiful form, and freely borne on plants 
possessing a charming bushy habit. The height is 
not much above 2 feet. We saw this plant at Earls 
wood last autumn,'and, although our visit was made 
in September, this variety had been in flower for some 
time. Some plants left in the open ground all 
through^ last winter are now a mass of flowers.— 


conditions grow weakly and the leaves 'are I &“ r8 ji U T S1, ?“? hy P . laD,s w T4rie ?“ ed 
° J 1 are also useful, and equally good the 


imperfect. 

A free circulation of air amongst the plants, 
with their full exposure all day if possible, 
contributes powerfully to substantial growth. 
Where the plants are compelled to occupy a 
position near to tall trees on the west aide of 
them, they lose much of the afternoon sun, 
which is so desirable in ripening the wood at 
this time of the year and onwards. By the 
time the plants are in bloom the wood should 
be almost as hard as a piece of Oak, and the 
colour of the bark should be rich brown, 
with a rough, uneven surface. This condi¬ 
tion must not be brought about by irregular 
treatment, such as withholding water from 
the roots, or any other means which are 
detrimental to the well-being of the plants. 
Such means as these do not produce properly 
ripened wood, but cause a check to the 
growth, which means a contraction of the 
sap vessels. Blooms that are small, especially 
those with extremely narrow florets, are gene¬ 
rally the result of over ripening of the wood. 

The leaves of plants which have their 
wood in a properly matured condition as¬ 
sume a bronzy appearance, though sonic 
varieties show this character more clearly 
than others. The way to have plants with 
thoroughly ripened wood is to pot them 
firmly, give them an open position during the 
summer, keep the growths tied out thinly, so 
that every leaf has its full share of air and 


ROOM AND WINDOW. 

NOTES AND EE PLIES. 

Window conservatory (E. M. W.).~ You 
do not say if there is any means of ventila¬ 
tion, but we presume there would be, and we 
inquire because of your non-success with the 
Caiceolaria.s last year. These things are 
very hardy as a rule, and, provided the cut¬ 
tings were good ones, and made to a joint, a 
large number should have rooted. If you 
now require a plant or two for the winter 
months, you cannot do better than purchase 
small plants of golden leaved Euonymus 
or the green-leaved or golden form of Retino- 


scarlet-berried Aueuba vera. Any of these 
would remain good all the winter. If but 
little sun reaches the window, some of the 
evergreen Ferns would be suitable, such, for 
example, as Seolopendrium.Woodwardia radi¬ 
cals, Polypodium cambricuni, or Poly- 
stichuni angulare varieties. During the win¬ 
ter season not much water would be required 
by the plants.—E. J. 

Cutting dried flowers for winter.— In 
growing flowers for winter decoration, the 
fact is sometimes lost sight of that they 
should be gathered when half-expanded, as. 
during the period of drying, most- of them, 
at any rate, open still further. This ie so 
in the casa of Helichrysums, Acrocliniunid, 
Xeranthemums, while Globe Thistles (Echi- 
nops), and Sea Hollies (Eryngiums), Statices, 
and Gvpsophilas should all be cut some 
days before they have reached their prime. 
The Statices and Gypsophilas, if left too 
long, soon shed their flowers, whereas, if the 
sprays are cut at the right time, they may 
be kept months, and with dried Grasses anti 
pods of Lunaria (Honesty), supply nice mate¬ 
rial for “everlasting” Louquets. —Leahurst. 


Index to Volume XXVIII. -The binding cover* 
(price Is. 6d. each, post free. Is. 9d.) and Index (3d., 
past free, 3Jd.) for Volume XXVIII. are now ready, 
and may be had of all newsagents, or of the Pub¬ 
lisher, post free, 2s. for the two. 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



September 21, 190? 


GAli MAYING 1L L VSTRATED. 


391 


ROSES. 

ROSE MLLE. SIMONE BEAUMEZ. 
This is one of those large, full Roses, of the 
Viscountess Folkestone type, but with more 
magnificent petals and a more refined finish. 
It resembles in many ways that lovely 
novelty of M. Pernct Ducher's, named Mine. 
Charles de Luze, excepting that there is a 
more intense suffusion of the orange colour 
in the centre of the flowers, with a colouring 
on the outer petals of a pale blush white. 
Such Roses as these arc highly decorative, 
their huge blossoms, borne on long, erect 
stems, giving them a very commanding appear¬ 
ance when the centre growths of the plants 
are kept thinned. M.^ Pernet Ducher has 
given us lately two distinct types of these 
Hybrid Teas, the expansive represented by 
the two Rcses named above, and the globu¬ 
lar or -egg shaped, as in Melanie Soupert, 
Marquise de Sinety, and Paul Lede; and 
then there is a third type, represented by 
Prince de Bulgarie, Joseph Hill, and Sou¬ 
venir du President Car¬ 
not. Perhaps some may 
say that there ha9 not 
been sufficient distinc¬ 
tion between the seed¬ 
lings sent out by this 
raiser during the la.st 
few years. It is true 
they run rather close to 
each other, but one 
must not hastily judge. 

It is surprising how in¬ 
dividual character 
manifests itself after 
the second and third 
year of trial. It is well 
known that the novel 
ties from this most suc¬ 
cessful raiser are 
among the most pre¬ 
cious for our gardens, 
and it is surprising, on 
looking back, to sec 
how few of his intro¬ 
ductions are discarded. 

Mile. Hiinone Beau- 
mez does not possess 
the powerful Violet 
fragrance of Mine. 

Charles de Luze.' If 
we could but secure 
fragrance in the Hybrid 
Tens, what a boon it 
would be. This is the 
one thing lacking, al 
though there are signs 
that this will soon be 
remedied in some novel 
ties, if not all. The 
charming apricot or 
orange shading in this 
Rose is wonderfully ac¬ 
centuated when the 
variety is grown under 
glass. This is seen in 
most of the sorts that 
possess the orange 
yellow suffusion. Outdoors we do not ob¬ 
tain the depth of colour until the plants 
possess some two or three-year-old growths. 
What glorious standards they wilt make ! 
Even the dwarf, somewhat stumpy growers 
develop nice heads and superb blossoms. In 
fact, for exhibition, I should strongly advise 
that these Hybrid Teas bo budded on half- 
standard Briers. Rosa. 


ROSE MME. BERKELEY (TEA- 
SCENTEDh 

The brilliant sunshine of the last two or 
three days has had a marvellous effect in 
bringing out the tints upon certain Tea and 
Hybrid Tea Roses, and oii no one is it more j 
manifest than the above-named variety. It ! 
is a Rose of surpassing beauty—one of those 
semi-double huge petal led sorts that one ad , 
mires when seen in all its beauty upon a I 
dewy September morning. The lively pink 
suffusion over the creamy-white ground is 
beautiful, and the large, expansive flowers 
display the colouring to the best advantage. 
One hardly knows whether it is the dainty 
colouring or the forma^mi* of the blmssoin , 

Digitized by VjO' glC 


that attracts most. It is a tine, strong 
grower, and would make a good group, the 
growth being dense, yet uniform. It is a 
good sort to produce seed artificially hybri¬ 
dised, and we have in Nellie Johnstone one 
result of such crossing, the influence of the 
pollen parent, Catherine Mermet, imparting 
more petals to this sort. Perhaps in the 
eyes of some individuals this is no gain, for 
we have so many formal double Roses, 
whereas the artistic sorts, such as Mine. 
Berkeley, are not by any means numerous. 
In a less degree we have the exquisite tinting 
alluded to above in the Rose Peace, that 
lovely sport from (I. Nabonnaiid. It is a 
sort everyone must grow, for it. partakes of 
the grand habit of G. Nabonnand, with 
flowers of a lemon-white hue, faintly tinted 
with blush-pink. Rosa. 


ROSE FRIQUET. 

There is quite a shortage of red and crimson 
Roses among the Hybrid Teas and Tea- 
scented- so much so that any Rose of a high 


colour n welcomed, if it possesses decorative 
qualities. In the above-named Rose we have 
a really nice variety, worthy of more ex- 
tended cultivation. Its colour is a very lively 
carmine-red. particularly bright and beauti¬ 
ful, making a very telling effec t- in tin? Rose- 
bods during the autumn months. The flower 
is large, nut extra double, but- quite full 
enough for a decorative sort, the outer petals 
i often pointed like a Cactus Dahlia. Its 
growth is excellent, tall-growing, and rather 
rigid for a Tea Rose, with less of the diffuse 
character of so many of this group. Judging 
from results, it would seem that we must 
look to the Tea Roses to give us some good 
red and crimson Roses, although in the 
: Hybrid Tens there is a tendency towards 
improvements on such as Liberty. This 
latter is superb when caught right, but its 
| inclination to that objectionable purplish 
1 hue in the autumn rather mars the colour 
effect when seen cn ma.?se. Did it but retain 
tlue brilliancy and richness of Princesse do 
Sagan, how valuable it would be ! This latter 
Rose has such an extraordinary spreading 
habit that its usefulness for decoration is 
I considerably reduced thereby. I think, if it 


were worked upon short standard Briers 
about 111 inches to 15 inches in height, the 
decorative effect of a good mass of such plants 
in a large bed would be beautiful. Rosa. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Mildew on Roses —Would you kindly tell me 
what ia the matter with the Rose-leaves which 1 
send you'/ I fear the bush has been caught by cold 
winds, as a Rambler which is exposed to a draught 
has suffered in the flame way. What remedy would 
you advise? Some of the Roses in the same bed 
have not suffered.-B. P.. Malvern. 

[Your plant has a bad attack of mildew, a 
fungus which causes rusarians a deal of 
trouble, and which is very prevalent just 
now. When it takes hold of a plant as badly 
as in this case, we think the best thing to do 
is to cut off the affected growths, for they 
only serve as a medium in spreading the pest 
to other plants. You can, if taken in time, 
prevent the spread of mildew by syringing 
the plants all over with a solution of car¬ 
bolic soap. Do this when you observe a few 
white spots upon the foliage. Take half a 
bar of Lifebuoy soap and dissolve it in a 
gallon of hot water ; then add two gallons 
more water, and apply when cool. An Abol 
syringe is best to apply it with, as it is a 
more economical sprayer. We should say 
your Rambler Rose is affected with the same 
fungus. Roses growing in a draughty situa¬ 
tion are very liable to mildew attacks, and 
certain Roses are specially addicted to the 
complaint, whereas others are quite immune 
from its attacks. It is a good plan to spray 
the Roses about once a week with the above 
solution, even if no mildew be seen.] 

Roses Beryl and I«ady Mary Corry -Will 
" Rosa ” tell me if the deep-yellow Roses Beryl and 
Lady Mary Corry open their bias soma well when 
grown outside? I should like to add the above varie¬ 
ties this autumn for button-holes and cut flowers or 
substitute varieties of the same colour if these re¬ 
fuse to expand outside. Perle de Lyon and Etoile de 
Lyon are utterly useless for open-air culture, and the 
light-yellow Medea has not- been satisfactory this 
season.—T. Oliver Hughes, Aberyxtvyth. 

[Both of these varieties will open welL out¬ 
doors, and are beautiful sorts to grow, but 
we have now in Lena a Rose far superior to 
Beryl, and Perle ties Jaimes is another beau¬ 
tiful deep golden sort. Perhaps Lady M. 
Corry cannot be improved upon by recent 
sorts, but there is an old Rose, Jean Pernet, 
which I prefer as a good yellow. You would 
find Josephine Bernacehi a lovely sort to 
grow. It yields very shapely blossoms. You 
should also plant Le Progres. It is a glori 
ous colour. I agree with you in your re¬ 
marks rr Perle de Lyon and Etoile de Lyon. 
They are only fit for indoor growth in this 
country. Medea requires a letter season 
than we have had this year, blit it is a valu¬ 
able, free-growing sort.] 

The best Roses for forcing (P. llohn).— 
Unquestionably the Tea-scented and Hybrid 
Tea-scented are the best Roses to grow under 
glass,but you do not say what kind of struc¬ 
ture you wish to grow Roses in. The nia. 
joritv of the Tea scented require a fairh 
warm temperature—say, about 50 degs. to 
55 degs. by night and about 58 degs to 60 degs. 
by clay, whereas many of the Hybrid Teas 
may be grown in much less heat—in fact, 
what is known as a cold house will do for 
this tribe. Assuming you have a house from 
which frost can be excluded, but where you 
are not prepared to give the heat named, we 
w r ould suggest the following as a good dozen 
sorts to cultivate: Caroline Testout, La 
France, Admiral Dewey, Grace Darling, 
Liberty, Mrs. W. J. Grant. Mine. Ravarv, 
Pharisaer, Paul Lede, Antoine Rivoire, 
Mine. Edmeo Metz, Mme. Abel Chatenay. 
Should you desire a fine white, then add Frau 
Karl Druschki from the Hybrid Perpetuals. 
Even if you are enabled to give considerable 
artificial heat, you will find this dozen an 
excellent selection. • 

Rose rust (H.). —The Rose leaf that you 
sent is badly attacked by the Rose-rust 
fungus (Phragraidium subcorticum). You 
should collect and burn all the diseased 
leaves, those that have fallen a« w r ell as those 
on the bush. It is almost too late in the 
season to make it worth while to spray the 
bush or bushes now. Early next spring, be¬ 
fore the buds begin to open, drench the bush 
with 12 ounces of sulphate of copper, dissolved 
in 3 gallons of water, and spray the soil near 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 






G.Ul D ENIJVG 1L L l! ST UNITED. 


SEPTEMBER 21, 190? 


ihe bushed with the same mixture. If the 
pest-appears again next year, on its first, 
appearance spray the bushes (taking care that 
the undersides of the leaves receive their share 
of the spray) with dilute Bordeaux mixture 
or an ammoniated solution of carbonate of 
copper, or 1 ounce of sulphide of potassium 
dissolved in 2J gallons of water.—G. S. S. 

Rose Souvenir de Wm. Robinson.— If 

this Rose had been a weakly grower, one 
would have been induced to plant it, owing 
to the wonderful and beautiful colouring; 
but it is so free and vigorous that one feels 
tempted to plant, it extensively. The com¬ 
bination of apricot pink and violet is very 
rich and beautiful, the former colour pre¬ 
dominating upon the older established plants. 
Such a Rose as this is worthy to rank with 
our foremost decorative Teas, even though its 
blossoms may never attain exhibition size, 
and I have found it always gains new ad¬ 
mirers whenever seen. Grown in half-stan¬ 
dard form, the colour of the flowers i« very 
intense, and this is by far the best, way of 
obtaining these delightfully tinted Roses.— 
Rosa. 

Rose Etoile de France. --With regard to 
your reply to “La Rose,” re “Crimson Roses 
for Bedding” (issile dated September 14th), 
you observe that Etoile de France not only 
suffers considerably from mildew, but that 
the flowers are also of a dull, purplish hue ; 
it. also requires a hot climate. I have one I 
planted the end of last March. It is excep¬ 
tionally free from mildew, and the flowers are 
of a very rich shade of deep crimson. The 
only fault 1 have found with this Rose is that, 
although beautiful in the bud, the full blos- 
r ims are apt to be malformed. It is also not 
quite so free flowering as 1 should like. I 
live high up on a great incline, overlooking 
the City of Bristol, with no shelter whatever 
from any wind, hot or cold ; and the ground 
Imre is a very heavy clay—in fact, a few 
months ago it. was part of a field of Couch 
Grass. You say this Rose is only suitable 
for a hot climate ; what about this cold, wet, 
‘■.unless summer? With every good wish for 
your paper, which every Rose lover should 
take in preference to every other.- Robert 
Daniel. 

Ordering Roses. —It is well to remember 
that one may often save much disappointment 
if the instructions are sent off reasonably 
early. There is this advantage also, that the 
best plants are often the first to be lifted in 
the nursery, and, procured early, they may 
1) * got in without fear of frost harming them ; 
Ik odes, it gives the nurseryman a much 
b-'tter chance. In some establishments, it is 
often more than they can do to cope with 
the orders that arrive in November—orders 
that, with a little care, might have been 
posted in October. From experience, I can 
testify to the benefit to be derived by booking 
orders in advance.—W. F. 1). 

Rose Sophia King.— Every Rose of the G. 
Nabonnand type must ever be welcome, for 
where is there a sort more lovely in the cool 
autumn days? The above named novelty is 
a seedling from G. Nabonnand, crossed with 
Heine Emma des Fays Bas, and really one 
need not mention this fact, for both in growth 
and blossom it much resembles the maternal 
parent. The colouring is charming, a rich 
apricot in centre petals, and on backs of 
petals paling to a fawn as flowers expand. 
Although smaller in size, this Rose has the 
same lovely petals that are such a fea¬ 
ture of G. Nabonnand. and I certainly think 
it a desirable sort to add to one’s collection. 
Bertha Kleman is another of the same cha¬ 
racter, but here we have a flower equally as 
large as G. Nabonnand. It was raised from a 
cross between Safrano and G. Nabonnand. 
Uic latter evidently imparting its own splen¬ 
did petals. The buds are long and hand 
some, opening to little more than semi- 
double flowers, that arc very showy. The 
colour is salmon-flesh, tinted with sulphur. 
Both varieties here noted originated from 
the same source as G. Nabonnand—namely, 
from Messrs. F. Nabonnand, of Golf Juan— 
and it is gratifying to know these raisers arc 
still at work producing the fine, vigorous 
■■rt^ that have made their name famous.— 
W. X. 

Digitized by (jO< »glC 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 

ANNUALS AT FLOWER SHOWS. 

At the great, flower show at Shrewsbury, even 
with Sweet Peas already so amply provided 
for, the collections of annuals were in great 
numbers, and the various kinds staged showed 
remarkable variety and beauty. Many 
very beautiful kinds were injured by too 
solid lumping or massing in the bunches, 
thus materially affecting their attractiveness 
in the eyes of the judges. Then, some kinds 
being, when the flowers are fresh and blight, 
much more likely to catch the judges, make 
the best for staging. Thus, Mignonette, 
however fine, was not so effective as a bunch 
of some bright coloured flowers. Arrange¬ 
ment of colour in setting up is also another 
tiling which needs some study, as one strong 
colour is apt to kill or derogate from the 
charm of a less, yet very beautiful, one of 
allied hue. Generally, I prefer that the 
bunch should represent one variety of any 
kind, and I am not sure whether that should 
not b; a condition of any similar class for 
the production of the best effects—at least, 
so far as named varieties are concerned. All 
the same, some persons will plead for a re¬ 
presentation of several varieties of a kind in 
one bunch to show how varied in form or 
colour the kind can be. At Shrewsbury, 
beyond specifying that, each bunch shall he 
“distinct,” room is left to the competitor to 
put in what he likes, as the term “distinct” 
applies to the bunches only, and, so far as I 
can see, any competitor may stng£ thirty 
kinds in the twelve bunches, so long as all 
are distinct from the other. If the schedule 
read, “Twelve bunches of cut flowering 
annuals, each hunch to contain one variety 
of any kind,” the wording would absolutely 
restrict the class to such representation. The 
best twelve bunches l could select from the 
whole number, some 114. were: Linaria, 
chiefly of the crimson and gold variety, but 
not all; Giant White •Rocket Candytuft, 
very fine; double Rose Godetia, Phlox Drum¬ 
mond i, both crimson and rose : Salpiglossis, 
seed variations only; Nemesia struinosa, seed 
variations; Rose Lavatcra; blue single 
Asters; white and crimson double Stocks; 
Zinnia, seed variations; Love in a Mist Miss 
Jekyll, and double blue or carmine Larkspurs. 
Still, the range of selection of good bundling 
annuals is illimitable. A. D. 


COBWEB HOUSELEEKS (SEMPERVI- 
VUM ARACHNOIDEUM VARS.). 

Ip I were asked to name a group of plaiits 
capable of retaining their interest all the year 
round, the Colnveh Houseleeks wo\jld be that 
group. These plants possess a value all their 
own when rightly understood, and given the 
position best suited to their needs. The fact, 
that they will grow and thrive as only House- 
leeks can in the driest positions in the rock 
garden but adds to the value of a group 
whose cultural requirements are very simple. 
The very dry under ledges not uncommon in 
some rock gardens, those nearly vertical 
positions or dry, miniature ravines, and the 
hot, sun smitten bank of stony soil, which is 
an impossible aspect to so many plants, arc 
some of the positions in which Houseleeks 
succeed. In any or all of the places men¬ 
tioned* the plants attrnot attention, and in 
summer, when in the hey-day of their beauty, 
and the white down covering the rosettes of 
leaves most pronounced, they constitute a 
picture of no mean beauty. It is during the 
same period, too, that the larger rosettes of 
Leaves produce their pink coloured, atariy 
blossoms, and these outspreading on the 
summit of a 3-inch high leafy stem, form a 
fine contrast to the mass of down-covered 
leaves below’. Too often such things are 
passed by with the remark: “How pretty!” 
and it is only when this fact is emphasised 
and the wealth of cottony down, oven more 
intricate than a spider’s web, stretching from 
leaf-tip to leaf-tip, and covering the heart of 
the rosette with a mass of threads whiter than 
snow, is seen, that, the same observer will ex¬ 
claim : “How very remarkable!” Often 
enough, too, those seeing it for the first time 
doubt as to its being a natural production of 
the plant. Those who have no rock garden 


may, on the driest window-ledge, grow a pot¬ 
ful of one of these, or a large shallow pan 
will afford a still better idea of its worth. 
Occasionally one sees patches on the nearly 
level ground, and the only excuse for grow¬ 
ing them in this, the worst possible position, 
is for the use of the student, and for refer¬ 
ence in the botanic garden. In such a place, 
splashed by soil and rain, their chief beauty 
is gone. 

As to soil, a good mixture may be com¬ 
posed of poor loamy soil or good ordinary 
loam, into which old mortar, brick rubbish, 
finely broken, or sharp grit enters freely. No 
manure of any kind should be used, and free 
drainage given where moisture abounds. The 
best way to form colonies of these plants is 
to select a good position, preferably be¬ 
tween stones, filling the crevice well and 
firmly with soil, pricking out the small ros- 
ettes over a large area, arranging them about 
2 inches asunder, or less if immediate effect is 
desired. A better final result is secured 
where the planting is done over a somewhat 
rugged surface, so that presently the whole 
group may appear as a series of connecting 
hillocks in time, nature formed. This is much 
the best way of securing the fullest value 
from one of tiie most interesting hardy alpines 
of my acquaintance. 

There are not many kinds of these in¬ 
teresting plants, and the most should be 
made of the few. 

Sempervivum araC HN011 ) EllM . the typical 
kind, is widely distributed over the Alps and 
the Pyrenees, and annually attracts a large 
number of tourists. 

S. a. Lagoeri and S. a. rubrum.— Both 
have larger rosettes than the type. In the 
former the leaves are pale green, in the latter 
the leaver are of a reddish hue, and are in 
marked contrast with the white of the downy 
rosettes. 

S. Hookert is a rather distinct kind, with 
shorter, blunter leaves of a pale green hue. 

I am not sure that this last-named kind is in 
commerce. Any of the others can be had 
from the hardy plant nurserymen, and are 
among the least expensive of good alpines. 


TUFTED PANSY SEEDLINGS. 
Doubtless many readers of Gardening 
made a sowing of Tufted. Pansies a w eek or 
two since, and the moister weather of late 
has encouraged rapid germination. These 
little seedlings are now growing apace, and 
should be dealt with promptly. We should 
prefer to prick them off in a cold frame in 
specially prepared soil. The seedlings cer¬ 
tainly would do well in a bed in a fairly cool 
part of the garden, but ro it should be the 
aim of the grower to have a batch of nice 
plants by October, means should be taken 
to encourage more rapid development by 
affording them some slight protection. Al¬ 
though placed in a cold frame, this need not 
necessarily be kept too close. We should 
only put the lights on in moist weather, or 
immediately after the seedlings have been 
pricked off. Sufficient protection would be 
afforded to the plants by the sides of the 
frames, and the top lights should therefore 
be removed, so that light and air may har¬ 
den off the plants. The soil for the cold 
frame should be of a light sandy character. 
We should prefer about one-third each of 
loam, leaf-mould, and sand, passing these 
through a sieve with a half-inch mesh, well 
mixing the whole. Place this in position, 
and after levelling and making fairly firm, 
prick off the seedlings about 2 inches apart. 
If the grower h:io plenty of room at his com¬ 
mand, plant the seedlings 3 inches apart. 
By the early days of October, the quarters 
in which it is intended to flower the seedling 
Tufted Pansies should have been got ready 
for their reception. The ground should be 
deeply dug and well manured, and if this 
can he done some little time before the bed 
is planted, and the surface loft in a rough 
condition for the weather to sweeten and 
pulverise it, so much the better. Pre¬ 
vious to planting, the surface soil should he 
broken up and levelled, and the seedlings 
planted out from 6 inches to 9 inches apart.. 
Treated in this w»>|, these plants in the 
early spring will provide a wealth of 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



SfcrTKMfifiR 21, 1907 


G./lBDEJYlJVa TLLUSTRATHD. 


3»3 


blossoms, and, assuming the seed was got 
from a reliable source, it is possible some 
choice new kinds may bo obtained. There 
is no hardy plant more free-flowering, or 
that remains in blossom for such a long 
period as the Tufted Pansy, and it does well 
in both suburban and country gardens. 

D. B. C. 


MIXED BORDERS NEAR TREES. 

To form mixed borders near trees is often 
attempted, not always with happy results. 
There are numerous plants which help us 
because of their woodland habit; but plants 
generally requiring careful cultivation, such 
as Carnations, should not be thought of. 
Lupins, Loosestrife, Spiraeas now and then in 
good positions ; the Pampas Grass, Solomon’s 
Seal, strong-growing Ferns on the cooler 
parts ; Foxgloves, Pieonies, the larger and old 
Japan Anemones (pink and white), and the 
large Moon Daisies all help. Cultivation is 
not so easy, as we can only injure perhaps 
choice shrubs or trees by refreshing our 


DAHLIAS. 

The following interesting paper was read be¬ 
fore an American horticultural society by 
Mr. George H. Howarth : — 
j The Dahlia is a native of Mexico, and was 
I named in honour of Professor Andrew Dahl, 
a Swedish botanist. The original Aztec name 
i was Acoctli. Dahlia Juarezi, the original 
Cactus Dahlia, was named after the former 
I President of Mexico, and was discovered in 
! Juxphaor, Mexico, in 1872, by J. T. Vander- 
, berg, and sent by him to an English florist, 
who exhibited it in England in 1880. The 
1 graceful form and brilliant colour of the 
flower at, once captured the fancy of flower 
lovers, and to-dav there id no flower more 
popular. The earliest known history of the 
Dahlia is not yet very old. About the year 
1657 Francisco Hernandez, a Spanish physi¬ 
cian, wrote a book on plants, and among the 
plants described be mentions Dahlia varia- 
bilis, the species from which most, if not all, 
of our present varieties have originated. At 
that time it is probable that it was only 
I known as one of the great multitude of 


in mind that up to this time all the varieties 
were single, the variegated and striped 
varieties leading in popular favour. 

The Dahlia possesses a happy, easy-going 
disposition, and seems to be at home in al¬ 
most every country, location, and soil. I 
have known Dahlias to grow variously 
situated from a few feet above sea-level to ail 
altitude of 8,500 feet, 6ome on clear sand, 
some on loam, and some on the heaviest of 
clay; all giving satisfactory results. But, for 
convenience in cultivation and digging, a 
light soil is preferable. I might also say that 
the Dahlia is a favourite among all people of 
all countries, and I know of no reason why 
it should not he. Its easy culture, varied 
forms, almost boundless range of colour and 
the wealth of bloom, at a season when most 
needed, should appeal strongly to both ama¬ 
teur and professional. 

The Dahlia, if properly treated, will begin 
to bloom in this latitude seventy-five day3 
from date of planting dormant tubers. They 
may be had much earlier, of course, if started 
under glass ; but if this method is employed, 



Border and trees at St. John’s College, Oxford. From a photograph by Mr. W. J. Vasey, Abingdon, Berks. 


plants. Grouping our plants helps much in 
culture, as it is so much easier to renew or 
(lean than in the dotting or single plant way 
so usual and so wrong. Some Roses of vigour 
on Iheir own roots may be used. Fellenberg 
makes a fine group, and Bardou Job we have 
seen very handsome in a border this year. 
The background of trees is a great aid in 
effect; but. we have to pay dear for it. In 
the case of a favourite border with a back¬ 
ground of trees, it may sometimes be worth 
putting a low concrete wall to cut off the 
roots; but such work should be well done, or 
it will fail to do what is needed. Where Yew 
hedges abound, as they do in some new gar¬ 
dens, planting flowers near them, as is often 
done, is a never-ending trouble for the gar 
dener, as the Yew roots are the worst of 
robbers. The best background of all is an old 
grey wall, which comforts all and robs none. 
Happy those who have such walls if they seek 
to grow the finest plants well and to get the 
best effect from them. The two things arc not 
the sajne. We may see a garden full of choice 
plants and no good effeytH*) be seen, i 

Digitized t, GCK'glC 


botanical plants, without much, if any, 
thought of its future usefulness, for we find 
nothing further in print for 130 years. It is 
quite probable, however, that some effort 
was made to improve and domesticate the 
plant toward the close of the eighteenth cen- 
[ tury, for in 1787 a Frenchman published an 
account of the Dahlias he had seen growing 
in gardens in Mexico. Two years later— 
1789—seeds were sent from the Botanic Gar¬ 
dens of Mexico to the Royal Gardens at 
Madrid, Spain, where it was given its present 
name, Dahlia. This lot of seedlings was lest 
two years later, as were several other lots 
sent to various places. But their stay, 
though brief, awakened a dee)) interest in the 
plant and its possibilities, and further at¬ 
tempts at its cultivation were now mode in 
several European countries, and it soon be¬ 
came quite popular. The work bestowed 
upon it, however, seems to have been more in 
the nature of a fad rather than intelligent 
study. Difficulty seems to have been encoun¬ 
tered also in knowing how to keep the roots 
over to the next season. It should he home 


great care should be exercised to keep the 
plants free from red-spider, as it is almost 
impossible to rid the plants of them when 
once infested. I have always preferred plant¬ 
ing direct in the open ground, and usually 
count on two and one-half to three months of 
bloom, which is ample to repay all labour and 
space given. The history of the first double 
forms is told as follows : M. Donkolaar, of 
the Botanical Gardens of Belgium, began a 
series of experiments with northern grown 
seed in 1812. His first crop of seedlings was 
still quite single, but seed saved from these 
gave him some semi double flowers in 1813. 

I and seed saved from these again gave fully 
double flowers in 1814, the third generation 
of the northern-grown seed. Those varieties 
. continued to produce double flowers, and the 
' Dahlia now became immensely popular. The 
question naturally arises here : Why should 
northern-grown seed produce double flowers? 
A theory gives this answer: Nature, always 
alert to protect and perpetuate itself, throws 
out extra petals to protect the tender seeds 
from the chill of the northern atmosphere. 








GJkMWlJYG ILLUSTRATE!). 


feErTEsihiin 21, 1007 


304 


B-! this true or not, certain it is that double 
varieties show a decided tendency in warm 
climate to become semi double and single 
varieties in the north are hard to keep in true 
form. 

Classification of Dahlias.— Dahlias are 
divided into six general classes. Class 1, 
Cactus.—This class embraces the long, nar- 
row-petalled varieties, the petals of which 
are generally pointed or twisted. Class 2, 
decorative (so called for want of a better 
name).—This class is an intermediate form, 
having broad, flat petals, and was formerly 
classed with the Cactus lists. Class 3, fancy. 
—This class takes in alL variegated varieties. 
Class 4, Pompon.—This class embraces the 
small round Dahlias, the plants of which arc 
generally of a dwarf, bushy habit. The lines 
of this class, however, are not clearly drawn. 
Class 5, show.—The name show generally ap¬ 
plies to those varieties producing largo, well- 
formed flowers, showing only solid colours, 
but may frequently have shaded tips. Class 
6, single.—To weil known to require a de¬ 
scription. There is, of necessity, more or i 
less overlapping among the classes, and the 
above rules only apply in general. 

Varieties. —The Dahlia has every colour { 
except blue, having more colours than any 
other flower except the Pansy, and com¬ 
pletely eclipsing that flower in substance and 
stem. In reds every conceivable shade-being 
represented, and. unlike most crimsons, they 
are bright and bold, holding their colour 
under artificial light, thereby enhancing their 
value. It seems almost impossible, so soft 
are some of the shades in Dahlias, to bunch 
them as to be out of harmony. Perhaps no 
one flower has so many varieties as the Dahlia 
—the Cactus, for instance, first exhibited in 
England in 1880, just twenty-seven years ago 
—and now there are thousands of good Cac¬ 
tus Dahlias—yes. hundreds of kinds which 
have received first-class certificates, awards 
of merit, etc., for in England the Dahlia is 
of no use commercially until it lias been pro¬ 
perly judged and stamped with approval of 
competent judges, a truly commendable way 
of setting a value on new varieties. Many 
of the now old varieties are best, both for 
form. colour, and profusion of flowers, such 
as the Countess of Lonsdale, Blanch Keith, 
Queen Wilhelmina, Strahlem Krone, Flori- 
dora, among the Cactus; Black Prince. Oban, 
Nymphea, Henry Mitchell, Clifford Bruton, 
and William Agnevv, among the decorative; 
A. D. Livoni, William Garrett, Golden Bull, 
Purity, among the show ; Frank Smith, Un¬ 
certainty, Lucy Faucett, Miss May Lomas, 
Arabella, Mrs. Lantrv, Penelope, among the 
fancy. Many varieties, which in England 
and Germany may be all that is claimed for 
them, still here they are a great disappoint 
ment under the most favourable auspices — 
taking, for instance “Winsome,” supposed to 
lie an ideal white, perfect shape, etc. ; as far 
as this variety as been exhibited in this coun¬ 
try, it is very ordinary indeed, as arc also 
Lord Roberts and Keynes White. Strange 
as it may be, England lias not produced a 
pure white Dahlia, all her so-called whites 
being of a c-ream tint, while France has sent 
over, even in 1900, a good white decorative 
Dahlia, which was classed as Cactus at that 
time, “Mme. Armond Charet.” England, 
France, and Germany yie with one another 
each year in producing new or improving on 
old varieties in the Cactus shape, as well as 
improving the formation of the flower, and 
it is to these countries we owe to some ex¬ 
tent the interest which is kept up by their 
introduction—and it is to be hoped in the 
coming years that America, instead of fol¬ 
lowing, will be leading, and this result can 
only be obtained after weeding-out of worth¬ 
less kinds and growing only the best; en¬ 
couraging the growth of “seedlings,” and 
having a competent committee of sufficient 
jurisdiction to pass judgment on their merits, 
and if found worthy, award them accordingly. 
Each class of Dahlias seem to have a place 
where they show best to advantage. Single 
Dahlias, when grown in open beds or along 
borders, give a most brilliant effect, while 
Pompons may be used in clumps here and 
there, and give one the impression of a bou¬ 
quet; but the decorative and show Dahlias, 
when grown in hedges, give most satisfactory 
results; and can be_jised to shui out un 
Bight ly places- 


an boused to shul out un- 
the^Kfr^ Bri^^^illiam 


Agnew, Penelope, and Black Prince are espe¬ 
cially adapted for this purpose. The Cactus 
arc adapted for any position, but they show 
at their best when planted alone on a lawn 
away from all others, 6uch profuse flowering 
varieties as Standard Bearer, Floridora, 
Countess of Lonsdale, Ernest Glasse, ^Egir, 
Monarch, Progenitor, Oda, or one of the best 
of all scarlets, Phineas; when well grown 
and properly disbudded, they will present 
a pictui-e which will long be remembered, 
and it is not uncommon to see twenty or 
twenty live flowers to a plant in full bloom 
of these varieties at one time. While there is 
u place always for new varieties, and the in¬ 
troduction of which keeps the interest in the 
flower alive, still, let us not try to see how 
many new varieties we can grow, exhibit, or 
show, but strive to grow those varieties of 
sterling worth, good habit, colour, stem, and 
foliage, to perfection, giving them good treat¬ 
ment and attention, thereby receiving the ap¬ 
proval which comes from the judicious—that 
is, a well-groAvn flower. 

Propagation. —There are four methods of 
propagation : First, division of roots, which 
is the easiest, and can be done by the veriest 
tyro amateur. Care only be needed to have 
a good, healthy shoot to the tuber, and tne 
best flowers are produced by one or tAvo 
tubers with a single shoot, if grown to per 
fection—the laterals being trimmed out and 
the buds properly thinned although some 
varieties, such as the Matchless, a dark red 
Cactus (old form), produce much bettev 
flowers from a lateral shoot. Second, by 
cuttings, which can be successfully done by 
starting dormant roots in plots in January, 
the cuttings being made from the groAving 
shoots as soon as they form third eet of 
leaves, the cuttings being placed in sand, 
in which they root in two or three weeks. 
Here, again, care must be taken in regard 
to temperature, as they are extremely tender. 
Third, by grafting, the usual method being 
adopted. This method meets with varied 
success, and, ns a rule, when successful, 
simply producing freaks or sports, Avhieh 
eventually return to the stronger parent. 
Fourth, by cross fertilisation of seed, either 
naturally or by brush. This is bv far the 
mest interesting study, but, unfortunately, 
not a profitable one, for very often, after 
spending a w hole season in growing a fine lot 
of seedling plants, not a large percentage is 
fit to show, and, may be, not more than one 
or two of any value, much better results 
are obtained by buying the seeds direct. 

A Avord about excessive propagation. Very 
often dealers or importers of new varieties, 
in order to meet the demands for a new- 
variety, force, not only the roots, so as to 
obtain cuttings, but even the plants groAvn 
from cuttings, before they have had any 
chance Avhatever, and in consequence they 
send out poor, Aveak pot-plants, which never 
produce a floAver anyAvhere like the original, 
and the groAver, becoming disgusted, discards 
it when, in reality, it is a real good floAver. 
This is an evil that should be remedied. ‘ A 
grower should give a neAV variety two chances 
before discarding it, for many times, after 
the first year, a so-called failure will result in 
a gem. 

Son.—Any ordinary soil, fairly rich, Avill 
groAv Dahlias. However, they seem to revel 
in a sandy loam, and groAv more dwarf, have 
a longer flowering season, make better plants, 
and produce better stems. Plenty of sun and 
air, ground well worked and kept from be¬ 
coming baked on top, with a nice top dressing 
or liquid-manure when they are budding, 
but which must stop when buds begin to 
colour, will produce good results. I believe 
the ideal way of planting Dahlias four feet 
apart in hills, with a small amount of compcst 
(cow-manure, ground bone-meal) at the roots, 
4 inches or 5 inches of soil over the root, 
and top-dress with 2 inches or 3 inches of 
manure, will give good results ; but while the 
plants may thrive well, and become almost 
ideal, the floAvers will be liable to be scarce. 
It is not so necessary to have a good soil as 
it is to have one with ability of retaining 
moisture. 

Dahlias for exhibition. —The Dahlia 
flow'ering season, coming after Roses are 
through, and before Chrysanthemums are 
due, is particularly fortunate, for it affords a 
chance for exhibitions which reaches the 


masses. The aim of all true horticulturists 
is, I believe, to install the love of flowers into 
the hearts of the people, and no flower that 
grows, perhaps, affords a better opportunity 
than this one. Their varied formation and 
colour particularly adapt them for exhibition. 
Singles show well in vases, decoratives and 
Cactus show well either in vases or on boards. 
I knoAv of no flow r er, except, perhaps, the 
Chrysanthemum, which lends its colours to 
grouping more effectively than the Cactus. 
The decorative and single types are parti¬ 
cularly good for vase work. All Dahlia 
blooms, especially the Cactus Dahlia, will 
keep much better if. immediately after cut¬ 
ting, the stem is plunged in boiling w'ater 
to the depth of 1 inch or 1£ inch for one 
moment or so. By this simple treatment the 
flower is prevented from going to sleep. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Lychnises.— Of the various forms of Lych¬ 
nis none is, probably, more popular than the 
old ehaleedonica, with its conspicuous heads 
of scarlet blossoms. I do not remember a 
season when this fine old perennial has grown 
so luxuriantly and flowered Avith a greater 
freedom than the present. All through the 
uncertain weather of July spikes of bloom in 
my garden Avere a distinct feature, and showed 
up well in company with Campanulas, Del¬ 
phiniums, and other hardy subjects on the 
herbaceous border. Bath this and the white 
form are worthy of a place in every garden 
where old-fashioned flowers are valued. 
Lychnises delight in a good loam, enriched 
from time to time with manure, and are 
readily increased by root division.— Towns¬ 
man. 

Tufted Pansy Ardwell Gem .— 1 This is a 
wonderful old Tufted Pansy, and compares 
A’ery favourably with the majority of the 
moro recent sorts. All through the flower 
ing season this plant provides a beautiful 
display of sulphur-yellow blossoms, that are 
finely rayed, and as they are produced on 
plants with an ideal creeping-like habit of 
growth, and are borne on stems that stand 
well above the foliage, it should be largely 
grown. Like a few other good sorts, this 
plant is seen at its best in the late summer. 
At the time of writing (August 21st) my 
plants are literally covered with blossoms. 
Its constitution is of the best, a great point 
in its favour. At this season the flowers are 
much larger than at any other time, and 
there is the promise of a bright display for 
a long time to come.—I). B. C. 

Watering the flower-garden.— The arti¬ 
ficial Avatering of the garden seems a very 
simple operation ; but, strange to say, as far 
as my w own observation has gone, very few 
among the amateur gardeners appear to know 
what is wanted, or tl»* proper way to set 
about the business. In too many instances, 
instead of a good root watering, a mere 
sprinkling of the surface from the rose 
watering-pot is given, the effect of this being 
the caking of the surface, causing increase of 
evaporation, and thereby making matters 
worse than before. If. on the other hand, a 
good root-Avatering be given, and the surface 
loosened betAveen the flow*ers by, say, a five- 
tined steel hand-fork, the loose surface will 
act as a mulch, shielding the soil immediately 
underneath from the action of the sun’s rays. 
Of course, I am now supposing a level, or 
a nearly level, surface, for if the surface of 
the border be sloping, a rt.c.e on the watering 
will be required, and a long time will be 
necessary to give a good root watering. In 
such a ease, a covering of rather littery mate¬ 
rial as a mulch would be a good thing. Where 
the natural contour of the land is sloping, a 
terrace arrangement is the most effective 
thing.—L. C. K. 

Edgings for spring.— Now is the time to 
plant edgings with a view to a spring display. 
Such things as Snowdrops, Seillas, and Cro¬ 
cuses among bulbs will suggest themselves. 
Aubrietias and Mycsotis, and dwarf Wall¬ 
flowers like Tom Thumb, a clear yellow, 
make capital edgings. Those on the look¬ 
out for a permanent subject should try some 
of the silver or golden-leaved Ivies, that make 
a bright finish to a w^lk, especially if, as they 
ought to be, they are clipped every spring.— 
Leahotist. * n p | LU {■] 0 ; s A, ! 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




September 2l, 190? 


GARDeJvTJtG ILLUSTRATED. 


395 



THE FALSE BUGBANE. 
(Trautvetteria PALMATA, SYN., ACTi«A 
PALMATA.) 

This is allied to Ranunculus, from which it 
is distinguished by the absence of petals. It 
is a native of North America and Japan, and 
is a rather tall plant, reaching a height, of 
2 feet or 3 feet, having two or three large 


dom with which their seed is distributed, re¬ 
garded a« weeds in the different countries of 
which they are native, for the genus is an 

extensive one, and contains hardy a« well as 
tender species. Perhaps the most orna¬ 
mental of this last is Asclepias curassavica, 
which is very effective just now in Hyde Park, 
being planted in the beds that run parallel 
with Park-lane. This Asclepias forms a 


1692. During the winter it should be Jcept in 
the warmest part of the greenhouse, and cut 
back hard in the spring before starting into 
growth. In Hyde Park it has a very pretty 
effect alternated with well-flowered plants of 
Streptosolen Jamesoni, the surface of the bed 
being carpeted with Verbena venosa, and 
edged with a white variegated Grass. The 
seeds of these different Asclepias are provided 
with a silky wing, by 
means of which they 
float for a considerable 
distance. X. 


rica.—Generally 


False Bu^bane (Trautvetteria pahnatn). 


palmately iobed root-leaves, and smaller ones 
on the stem. The stems are simple or 
branching above, and bear branching head6 
of flowers in a loose corymb, as may be seen 
by our illustration. The flowers are white 
and gmall, and borne during July and August. 


Asclepias curassat 

ing, most of the Asole 


speak 


G ui**, irout ii r free 

O g Ie 


quick growing sub shrub, whose upright 
shoots arc clothed with Willow like leaves, 
the whole plant being somewhat suggestive of 
an Oleander. The flowers, borne in branch¬ 
ing umbels, arc of an orange-scarlet colour, 
and, being fully exposed to sunshine and air, 
they are brighter in colour than in a partially 
shaded structure. It is a native of tropical 
America, and was introduced as long ago as 


Carnation Cecilia. I 

note that, a correspon¬ 
dent has had trouble with 
this beautiful Carnation, 
the edges of the petals, 
it appears, having turned 
brown both when grown 
under glass and out¬ 
doors. To me this be¬ 
haviour appears some¬ 
what singular, as I re¬ 
gard Cecilia as a very 
satisfactory variety, both 
for indoor nnd outdoor 
culture, and have never 
had to complain of the 
edge of the petals be¬ 
coming seared. This s'ea- 
son I have had a good 
lot of plants of this 
variety flowering in the 
Carnation-house as well 
as cn a border facing 
south, but have not de¬ 
tected a single bloom de¬ 
fective ; iu fact, the 
plants have never done 
I letter or yielded finer 
flowers. Why vour cor 
respondent’* blooms 
should suffer in the 
shade cast by a wall fac¬ 
ing northwards is quite 
inexplicable. It is easily 
accounted for if the roof 
is not well shaded with 
regard to plants grown 
under glass, and I have 
seen ere now a good deal 
of damage done in this 
respect when the routine 
matter of shading has 
been neglected. Under 
a north wall one would 
imagine the blooms 
would open unblemished 
and remain in good con¬ 
dition for some consider¬ 
able time, as sufficient 
sunshine could not pos 
sibly reach them to do 
any damage. The blooms 
on my plants have to 
withstand full sunshine, 
and the soil is heavy and 
retentive, yet they do net 
suffer in the slightest de¬ 
gree either from burning 
or scalding. One thing, 

I do not have the flowers 
tied or supported more 
than is absolutely neces¬ 
sary, as I think Carna¬ 
tions look more beautiful 
when drooping some¬ 
what than when tied. 60 
that all the blooms are 
made to face the be¬ 
holder. As the colour is 
a delicate one, the petals 
might possibly get burnt 
at the edge if the flowers 
were tierl face upwards, 
yet I can hardly believe 
6iioh to be the case, and 
no doubt the reply given 
in answer to the query, 
that there must be some local condition ac¬ 
countable for the disfigurement, is the cor¬ 
rect one.—A. W. 


“The English Flower Garden and Home 
Grounds. '—New Edition, 10th t revised, with descrip¬ 
tion* of all the l>est plants, trees, and shrubs, their 
culture and arrangement, illustrated on tcood. Cloth, 
mediant Svo, 15a.; pout free, t?>s. Cd. 


















300 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


■Septemder 21, 1907 


VEGETABLES. 

YOUNG WINTER CARROTS. 

In largo households there are three vege¬ 
tables which are required every day, and in 
many kitchens are supplied without special 
orders. These are Carrots, Turnips, and 
Onions. In the case of those who have a 
fondness for the Carrot, as a vegetable, it is 
important that frequent sowings be made, 
so as to maintain a supply of young, tender, 
and really edible roots. In many gardens 
Carrots are sown for an early batch of young 
roots, and then dependence is placed on a 
larger sowing of the long winter kinds, and 
these must do duty for many months in a 
fresh or stored state. Those who enjoy a 
young Carrot would do much better to sow, 
not once, but half-a-dozen times during the 
season, commencing in February and finish¬ 
ing in August. The August sowing will last 
through the winter, choosing always one of 
the Horn varieties. The Early Nantes is a 
very good Carrot, but no one need bind him¬ 
self strictly to one variety, because others 
serve the same purpose equally well. Some 
are quicker in maturing, and shorter, and 
thus easily drawn when needed. In the win¬ 
ter these young Carrots can be protected with 
a coating of half-decayed leaves, or be covered 
with Bracken, Fern, or anything, in fact, that 
will keep them from being severely frozen. 
They can then be drawn as required all 
through the winter. The leaves must not be 
covered up so as to exclude light. Sown 
after such crops as Potatoes, Peas, Broad 
Beans, and Cauliflowers have been cleared, 
there need be no further preparation other 
than clearing the ground of weeds and draw¬ 
ing drills 10 inches to a foot asunder, and 
giving water sometimes if required. Firm 
ground is advantageous in dry weather, as it 
conserves the natural moisture longer, should 
the weather be dry. For these crops digging 
and manuring will have been attended to in 
early winter or spring, and thus ample fer¬ 
tility to support the Carrot crop will be 
present. S. 


EARTHING-UP CELERY. 

Many growers begin to earth up their Celery 
plants almost as soon as they begin to grow. 
Those practised in the growth of Celery have 
learnt that the progress of their plants is 
much more satisfactory and rapid when they 
are free and unhampered by the bank of soil 
about them. With an open trench the feed¬ 
ing with liquid or dry manures is made much 
more simple and effective. Earthing-up 
serves only one purpose—to blanch and pro¬ 
tect the full-grown plants so that no possible 
gain accrues from starting the work until 
they are approaching a full-grown state. 
Protection necessarily is only required in 
winter, when frost visits arc frequent, and 
sometimes long-lasting, yet one sees Celery 
being earthed in July. From a month to six 
weeks is the usual time it takes to blanch 
Celery sufficiently for use, after it is fully 
banked up. It is not a custom among prac¬ 
tical gardeners to complete the work in one 
operation—rather it is extended over two, 
or even three, so that progress of the plant 
is not crippled by the presence of soil. In 
summer, when early Celery is required, some 
wrap a stiff paper band round each plant, 
an operation at once simple, cleanly, and 
effective. Similar practices would not do in 
the winter, because the paper would become 
quickly decayed through being constantly wet, 
and there would not be the same protection 
against frost. Even soil-banks are not al¬ 
ways sufficient for this, but it must be re¬ 
membered that the tops need be left exposed 
to the light, and thus the tenderest portion 
of the plant is not so well sheltered. Rain, 
too, follows the leafstalks in its passage 
through the soil, and frost sets up decay in 
the toj>s, which continues downwards once it 
is set into action. I invariably cartli-up at 
three differing periods when the produce is 
intended to afford a winter supply, the last 
and final one to be done carefully, in order 
that the heart of the plant is not filled with 
soil ; the sides, too, are made smooth, so 
that rain passes off quickly. When worms 
and slugs are troublesome during winter by 

Digitized by (jO>. 'glC 


eating into the hearts and stalks, fresh lime 
scattered among the soil and around the 
plants is a good remedy. Sometimes I have 
known it necessary to enclose the plants in 
the sifted ashes, the gritty nature of which 
is not congenial to either slugs or worms. 
It is only in extreme cases where I have seen 
this practised. It has been said that malt- 
dust is so objectionable to slugs that they 
will not approach it. If this is the case, it 
will be valuable, apart from the manurial pro¬ 
perties which it has for some cro[>«. If a 
little of this refuse from the maltings is 
sprinkled around the plants in the course of 
earthing up, it ought to remain for some time 
objectionable. Those who have been in the 
habit of applying soil to their Celery in smalt 
quantities and at short intervals dating 
from their early start, would find that if they 
left it alone until six or eight weeks before 
it is required for table they would gain much 
in material and quality, to say nothing of the 
less demand on time and effort for carrying 
it out. In every case it is advisable to gather 
up the leaves and tie a strand of raffia around 
each plant, so that the heart is well secured 
against suffocation by soil. The side growths 
issuing from the base and short leaves, too, 
are best removed, because when covered in 
they soon rot, and in doing so set up decay 
in the edible stalk. S. 


THE POTATO CROP. 

Now that lifting of the main crop varieties is 
going forward, a fairly correct estimate of the 
yield can be obtained. Compared with last 
year, this season's yield with me is about one- 
third less; but as the crop in 1906 was excep¬ 
tionally heavy, that makes the present a fair 
average one, and, according to reports cir 
dilating in the neighbourhood, I may con¬ 
gratulate myself that it is so good as it is. 
Nevertheless, 1 must confess I am somewhat 
disappointed, as the various breadths, com¬ 
prising in all rather more than an aero, have 
looked so well, and never having experienced 
a cheek from spring frosts, the tops have 
been vigorous, and so robust as to lead one 
to imagine that a far heavier crop of tubers 
would result than has been the case. The 
tubers lift clean, they are clear in the skin, 
and but little scab is in evidence. Some 
tubers are abnormally large, and among these 
of that well-known variety, Windsor Castle, 
there are signs here and there of second 
growth being about to be made. This is not 
surprising when the nature of the season is 
taken into consideration, and, for this self¬ 
same reason, it is also a matter for surprise 
to find so few tubers diseased, seeing that 
the tops fell a prey to the disease several 
weeks ago. A good many of the seed tubers 
of Windsor Castle were lifted in sound con¬ 
dition, which I do not care to see; but as 
regards other varieties there is no cause for 
complaint. A. W. 

NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Are Mushrooms under Elm trees poisonous r 

— I have a shrubbery over-topped by larye Elm-trees, 
where a quantity of Mushrooms prow; but I am told 
that Mushrooms growing under Elm-trees are not 
wholesome. Is this so?—H. 

[We print your query in order that readers 
may reply to it, hoping that in this way some 
authoritative information may be forthcom¬ 
ing. At an inquest held recently, a medical 
man stated that. Mushrooms growing under 
Elufllrees were always poisonous. If the 
statement were that the particular kinds of 
fungi usually found growing under Elm-trees 
were poisonous, it would not appear extra¬ 
ordinary; but the assertion was that Mush¬ 
rooms, such as are usually eaten with safety, 
are dangerous if they are found under Elm- 
trees, and if this be true, it is desirable that 
some explanation should be forthcoming, or, 
at any rate, that the matter should be placed 
beyond doubt.] 

Tomatoes—final efforts. —There is nothing 
whatever gained in encouraging, at this dis¬ 
tant date, the growth of new shoots on Toma¬ 
toes; indeed, the much better plan is to re¬ 
lieve the plants of all superfluous growth, 
and direct attention to ripening the trusses 
of fruit now hanging. In nearly every 
house where Tomatoes are grown, there are 
a number of bunches at this time of the year 


only half-size, and it is these that should be 
hurried on. After having rid the plants of 
unnecessary foliage, warm liquid manure 
should be applied, and, if possible, a fire 
placed in the stove, so that when the day 
comes for shifting the plants in preparation 
for winter tenants, most of the fruits will 
have swollen up, and they can then be re¬ 
moved and placed on a shelf in a cupboard in 
a house for ripening. The season now draw¬ 
ing to a close has not been at all a satisfactory 
one for Tomatoes—in fact, to use tlw words 
of a friend of mine who had planted some¬ 
what largely in the open, “it has been one 
of the most disappointing seasons I have 
known,” and is another proof that in many 
parts of the country, at any rate, the grow¬ 
ing of Tomatoes out of-doore will always be 
somewhat in the nature of an experiment. 
In the case referred to, many of the plants 
at the time my notes are written (September 
5th) have only produced one or two trusses of 
fruit, and these are quite green, and only 
half-grown.— Woodbastwick. 

Mushrooms out-of-doors. For outdoor 
Mushroom growing an abundant supply of 
stable manure is requisite. The making up 
of beds goes on in market gardens from Sep¬ 
tember till March at least. The manure as 
fast as brought home is shot down in a heap 
in a yard, the long straw shaken out, spread 
about, and dried, then stored for covering up 
the beds thickly. The short manure is put 
into a ridge, and frequently turned to prevent 
fermentation, being at each turning, if 
needed, well sprinkled with water to keep it 
just moist. The turnings should take place 
when the manure becomes quite warm. That 
can be tested by putting a long pointed slick 
into it, and pulling it out to test heat. When 
a good body of manure is thus prepared the 
whole may lie built up quite in the open, but 
still best where sheltered from could winds, 
into a solid ridge, 3 feet wide at the base, on 
a dry floor, and 3 feet high in the centre, the 
top being rather rounded. In making the 
bed tread it firmly. When thus made force 
into it a long stick to test heat, and so soon 
as it begins in the least to decline at once 
insert the spawn. For that purpose obtain 
spawn cakes from a good maker, cut them 
into about eight pieces each, and force them 
into the sides and top of the manure-bed or 
ridge, all over about 3 inches apart. Then 
give the bed a good watering, using tepid 
water, "and at once coat it over with good 
stoneless Loam, free from weed seeds. That 
obtained from an old pasture is best. That 
may be some half to three-quarters of an inch 
thick. Then cover up the bed thickly with 
the straw-htter. When frosts, snow-falls, or 
heavy rainstorms prevail, it is well to cover 
the top of the bed with mats or cloths. Mush¬ 
rooms should appear in from six to eight 
weeks. 

Endive. -It would be idle to contend that 
Endives would take the place of Lettuce, 
many people objecting to the broad-leaved 
varieties, and caring but little for the curled, 
yet in hard winters they come in exceedingly 
useful to mix with the .Lettuce. Seeds may 
be sown lip to pretty nigh the end of August, 
but those sown u month earlier are more im¬ 
portant. The unfortunate point is that the 
Moss-curled variety of Endive is rather ten¬ 
der, and cannot be depended upon should 
severe weather set in for any length of time, 
and it is decidedly the better to look at. if 
not to the palate. The Batavian varieties 
require much more space than the Moss- 
curled, and should he given quite a foot apart 
each way, not that there is any more eatable 
matter in them, but they make such robust 
outer leaves, especially if the ground is extra 
good. The green-curled varieties are good 
and fairly hardy, but it is best towards No¬ 
vember to lift the plants and cither put them 
into frames, pits, or cold houses, where pro¬ 
tection from frost, can be given them, and 
blanched where they are as required, or take 
to a dark structure, such as a Mushroom- 
house. a little heat doing them no harm. In 
covering outdoors, which is best done with 
8 -inch or 10-inch flower pots, see that the 
foliage is fairly dry first, as dampness is one 
of the causes of decay. The long-leaved 
Batavian may be tied up similar to Cos Let¬ 
tuce to blanch, blit the curled varieties do 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



September 21, 1007 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


307 


not usually lend themselves to this process. 
There is generally plenty of available ground 
about this date onwards, and it may well be 
utilised in planting a good breadth of each, 
curled and plain, when, should the winter 
be a severe one, they will come into use 
either in the kitchen or salad-bowl. Give 
them an open position, so that they may be 
as hardy as possible by the time frosts are 
expected, stirring the soil frequently l)ct\vec*n 
the plants before the leaves touch each 
other.—B. 

Weak Asparagus-bed (Menai ).--When 
Asparagus growths are weak it is presumptive 
evidence that the bed is old, or has never 
been properly made, and the soil is poor and 
exhausted. It is late now to apply stimu¬ 
lants, but you may give the soil a thin 
sprinkle of sulphate of ammonia or of nitrate 
of soda. First well crushed, then wash it in 
with liquid manure, made by putting a bushel 
of horse-droppings in a coarse bag into a tub 
containing twenty gallons of water. More 
cannot well be done now. In the winter, give 
a top dressing of half-decayed stable-manure, 
to wash in, and in June a thin sprinkle of 
coarse salt. In the meantime, have during 
tlie winter a piece of ground well trenched 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 

FRAXINUS MARIESJI. 

The common flowering Ash (Fraxinus ornus) 
of Southern Europe is undoubtedly a very 
handsome tree, and one far too seldom met 
with. This new specie^ is, however, much 
the more beautiful, its panicles of white 
flowers being larger and more dense. It is a 
native of the Chinese province of Kiu Kiang, 
where it was discovered by the collector, 
whose name it bears, when travelling for 
Messrs. Vcitch. The entire plant is quite 
glabrous, except the petioles and the branches 
of the panicle, which are clothed with a very 
dense, almost microscopic, pubescence. 


NOTES AND REPLIES . 

Propagating Aucubas.— Half ripened wood 
makes the best cuttings, and September is 
the best month for increasing in this way. 
Cut off as many branches as can be spared 
from the old plants, and divide them into 
pieces having two or three eyes each, and 
also one or more leaves. For these prepare n. 
cold frame or border at the base of a wall, 


GARDEN WORK. 

Conservatory.- Retarded Lilies wdlL come 
in useful now. They do not require any 
forcing -only encouraged to come quietly 
under glass, shaded from the hot sun. Put 
more early flowering bulbs; in fact, nil the 
earlv-flowering bulbs may be potted, though 
all may not be required in bloom at once, 
they can easily be kept bnek. All the Hya¬ 
cinths and Narcissi should be plunged in 
Cocoa nut.-fibre or ashes. Forcing kinds « f 
Tulips should be potted or boxed, and 
covered with long litter. They conic very 
well- in this way, and, if required early for 
cutting, they can be placed under the stage 
in a warm house, to get the flowers to pro¬ 
duce the. necessary length of stems for cut¬ 
ting. Chrysanthemums will require feeding 
now by top-dressings and otherwise. As a 
rule, the plants are very healthy, and as we 
may expect gales of wind shortly, the tics 
should be secured. The buds of the Japanese 
section will have been secured, and all com¬ 
peting shoots removed, so that the buds may 
grow very rapidly. Incurves will require 
watching, and the buds secured as they show 
now. Late-flowering varieties which are 
coining on for the conservatory as bushes 
have not shown buds vet. Let the plants 
stand thinly, and be fully exposed to the sun¬ 
shine. to get the wood ripened. This ripen¬ 
ing is important. Late pinching cr stopping 
is not good policy, as it reduces the size of 
the flowers, and some of the weak shoots of 
late varieties may not flower at all. Vnilotas 
are now throwing up flower spikes, and should 
be placed under cover. If grown into large 
plants, they make a splendid show through 
the autumn. Cockscombs and Balsams are 
still fresh and bright, but these and other 
annuals when they have lost their freshness 
can be thrown out, as there are many other 
things coming on. The advantages of turn¬ 
ing out such plants as Himantophyllums to 
ripen the growth in summer is very consider¬ 
able, hut they may he taken hack again now, 
but in housing anything let the change be as 
gradual as possible, and, for this reason, the 
ventilation should be free as long as the 
weather is mild and calm. A w r atchful eve 
must be kept upon the weather ; sometimes 
sharp frosts come early in September, but a 
very light covering will save any tender 
plants for a time. 

Stove. I am assuming this house has been 
repainted inside, or. if not, lias been tho¬ 
roughly washed with soap and water, and any 
wall surfaces limew ashed. or, if the walls 
are painted, washed thoroughly. If there are 
any mealy-bugs in the house, an effort should 
be made to clear them out. or, at any rate, 
reduce their number, as it is very difficult to 
clear out mealy-bugs by one effort, but it can 
be done by persistence and by the occasional 
sacrifice of a badly infested plant. Tender 
plants will now be coming back from the con-, 
servatory, and from cool-houses generally. 
Eucharis Lilies which have been rested in a 
cool-house, or even outside, will soon re¬ 
spond to warmth and high feeding with 
liquid-manure. These bulbs should not be re¬ 
potted often, but when the pots are well 
filled with roots they will require frequent 
applications of liquid-manure. Night tem¬ 
perature now. GO (legs, to 6f> (legs., but do not 
use more fire-heat than is necessary for this 
object. 

Ferns under glass. These will soon re¬ 
quire a little fir *. Of course, all the tropical 
species have had a little warmth, but the cool 
fernery has not yet bad fire-heat, as iuel is 
much dearer, and we have to study economy ; 
but, of course, there is no real economy 
in starving anything. Besides, many cf 
the plants in what may be called cool fer¬ 
neries are young, and it will not do to starve 
young things. Spores that were sown six 
weeks or so ago are now becoming quite 
green, and will be placed on shelves in a 
lighter position, and young plants in 3-inch 
pots will be moved into pots 5 inches in 
diameter, and, under such conditions, a night 
temperature of 55 (legs, will be desirable to 
keep things moving on. Some shoots of Ficus 
elostica growing in the fernery that were 
layered a short time ago, and surrounded 
with Moss kept damp, have formed roots, and 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



Fraxinus Mariesii in Mr. Chambers' garden at Ilasleracre. 


and heavily manured, ready to plant new 
roots on to it in rows 2 feet apart, next March 
or April, and thus prepare a new bed to in 
time replace the old one. 

Replanting small Onions (RUluna).— We 
should not like to assert that if you save your 
small Onion-bulbs in a dry state over the 
winter, and repLant them thinly on good soil, 
as Shallots are planted, in February or 
March, that they will all develop or swell 
into larger bulbs during the summer. StiLl, 
there is reason to think some, if not all, may 
do so, and not bolt off to flower. We have 
now and then seen such bulbing to follow 
spring planting of very small ones, but. of 
course, such planting is rarely done. Bulbs 
twice the size of yours might go to flower. 
Lesser ones could hardly be worth planting 
at all. In the Channel Islands circumstances 
differ from ours, and results may he diverse. 
In any case, we trust you will plant some as 
suggested, and let us know the result next 
year. If successful, your venture would be 
most interesting. 

Forcing Rhubarb (.V. H .). — Rhubarb may easily 
be forced in winter where heat, moisture, and dark¬ 
ness prevail—in an outhouse, under cover of a shed, 
or under the stages in a greenhouse. It is not en¬ 
tirely dependent upon soil if there be plenty of 
moisture; but, for preference, the clumps should be 
placed in a box with soil ntuin?! them. 

Digitized b; VZjO' QlC 


wooden fence, or hedge. Mix a good deal of 
sand and some leaf-mould with the soil, and 
in this insert the cuttings pretty thickly and 
firmly. If in frames, cover with sashes and 
shade from sunshine ; but, if in borders, 
handlights should be employed. Here they 
may remain till the following April or May, 
when most of them will be rooted, and may 
then he transferred in lines to sheltered posi¬ 
tions out-of-doors, and, when well established, 

[ they may in the autumn be moved !o their 
1 permanent quarters. Many people nip out 
the point of the cuttings so as to induce them 
i to throw out two or three shoots instead of 


Blue Hydrangeas —“ L. R." asks about blue 
Hydrangeas. I have seen blue Hydrangeas in Corn¬ 
wall, and was told the colour was caused by the tin 
in the soil. I have also been told that frequent 
applications to the roots of wood-ashes will bring the 
blue colour.—L. P. 

Spiraea Anthony Waterer —Of the Spiraeas suit¬ 
able for crowing in the garden none are better 
adapted than Anthony Waterer. It is comparatively 
dwarf, being only about is inches in height, with 
flowers of a deep-red colour. Like most of the 
Spiraeas, it delights in an abundance of moisture, 
and if planted in deep soil and given the benefit of 
a mulching of old manure occasionally, soon makes a 
good-sized plant. I recently saw a clump growing 
in a rock garden close to an ornamental lake, and 
the moist position suited it splendidly.- Woodbast- 
wick. 










GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


September 21, 190? 


598 


have been detached and potted. Very strong 
plants are obtained in this way. 

Orchard-house. Finish the repotting and 
top-dressing of Peaches and other fruit-trees 
in pots. When the trees have been worked 
on into larger pots they will go for years 
with an annual top dressing. All the surface 
soil should be removed down to the roots, and 
as much picked out around the sides as can 
be done without serious injury. Peaches 
soon Tecover if a root is broken or slightly 
damaged, and work freely into the new soil, 
which consists of two-thirds good loam, the 
remainder made up of very old cow-manure, 
bone-meal, and a little artificial plant food 
suitable for Peaches. The whole is welL 
blended and rammed down firmly. The pots 
will be sheltered with Bracken if there comes 
frost, and, in the meantime, the house will 
be filled with Chrysanthemums, after being 
cleaned with soap and water. This clean¬ 
sing is very necessary. 

Early vinery. —The Vines ill this house will 
soon be pruned now. Probably, the bearing 
branches were shortened back when the 
Grapes were cut. Most of the leaves will 
now have fallen, and the Vines will he pruned 
more or less according to the condition of the 
Vines. Black Hamburghs and Muscats 
usually show more bunches than are required, 
and may he pruned rather close back say, 
to two eyes, to be on the safe side. Other 
varieties are sometimes left with longer 
spurs, but in pruning the condition of the 
roots has to be considered. "When the roots are 
near the surface, we may cut close home, 
and there will be a crop, but if the roots are 
beyond control, it is sometimes wiser to look 
to a plump bud to cut to, and so make sure 
of a good bunch, but when this condition is 
reached, lift the roots. 

Early Cucumbers.- A night temperature of 
60 degs. will do for the present, to keep the 
plants sturdy and vigorous. They will want 
nil this vigour when the short days conic. 
Top-dress with fresh, sweet compost as soon 
as the young roots show on the surface. The 
water should he of the same temperature as 
the house. Supply atmospheric moisture 
freely in bright weather, to keep the foliage 
fresh and healthy. Stop all side shoots one 
leaf beyond the fruit. Remove all deformed 
fruits when small. Cucumber blossoms, un¬ 
like Melons, do not require setting, as seed 
is not required. Telegraph is a good winter 
Cucumber. Lockie’s Perfection is a good, 
free bearing variety, which we have grown 
for many years. A little sulphur on the pipes 
will be useful to keep mildew out of the 
house. 

Palms for the house. The best Palms for 
the house, to my thinking, are Kentias. They 
last well, and are graceful in habit. Latanias 
require a good deal of room when they are 
old, and do not keep in condition so long as 
Kentias. and only few care for Hie Date 
Palms. Cocos Palms are very useful—in 
fact, indispensable for table decoration. We 
have found these do best in peat and sand, 
and, if not over-watered, they will keep in 
condition a long time. 

Outdoor garden. —All seedling perennials ; 
and biennials should be transplanted to get 
strong. Where there are bare places in the 
borders where annuals or other things have 
faded and become shabby, fill up with Wall¬ 
flowers; Pansies, Canterbury Bells, and any 
other plants strong enough to be moved. 
This only refers to patches on the borders. 
The bedding plants are vet bright, and need 
not be cleared yet. Hollyhocks, Pentstemons, 
Phloxes, and any other plant of which an in¬ 
crease of stock may be required may be 
rooted from cuttings now. Gather seeds of 
choice trees and shrubs, such as Brooms, etc., 
and lay them out in an airy room to dry. 
Early-flowering bulbs should be planted, if 
possible, during this month. They are often 
planted later, but do not delay if the best 
results are wanted. This refers especially to 
Snowdrops, Scillas. Crocuses, Jonquils, and 
Narcissi. There is time enough yet for 
Tulips and Hyacinths. They may wait till 
the beds are cleared in October. Pinks in 
masses may be pulled to rather small pieces, 
but leaving a bit of old stein, which must be 
buried firmly in the ground and planted as 
edgings or as masses ii^ the bordera, for the 

Digitized by GOOgle 


glaucous green tint in winter. Wonderfully 
sweet are the white Pinks. 

Fruit garden. Seedling Apricots will 
often bear good fruit without a foster parent 
simply on their own roots. I have known 
very good, free-bearing trees obtained from 
planting the stones, afterwards moving the 
young trees to a south or east wall, and get¬ 
ting them into training. All the trees may 
not bear really good fruit, but many will. 
Peaches are not, as a rule, successful on 
the Plum-stock, and I think the Mussel Plum 
is the most suitable ; the Brompton-stoek en¬ 
courages too much growth, and the trees do 
not bear so freely. To my mind, the best 
Plum for cooking and jam-making is Gis 
home's, and it seldom fails to bear. It is, 
as most of your readers know, a yellow Plum 
of medium size, and it bears so abundantly ; 
the fruits, if not thinned, are small, but even 
then the flavour, when cooked, is not had. 
The Nut crop this year appears to be very 
thin; Walnuts, especially, are. in many 
places, » failure. Root-pruning, if not 
carried to extremes, may be done now. Early 
fruits are being gathered, but, ns they will 
not keep, should be used without delay, 
especially Pears, which soon decay. 1 have 
known large trees of the I.ammas and Hessel 
Pears that were very profitable gathered off 
the trees and sold. 1 know one large, old 
tree of the Lammas Pear that annually made 
£5 ; but the tree was large. 

Vegetable garden. So far as 1 have seen, 
all green crops are in good condition, but 
Potatoes are diseased in many districts, and 
are worse where the seeds are not often 
changed. This is proof enough, if more proof 
be wanted, of the value of change of seed, ; 
especially of Potatoes. We grow only early | 
or second early kinds, and have no disease to 
speak of. As soils vary so much, it is not of 
much use to recommend any special variety 
without knowing something of the soil. Duke 
of York. Sir J. Llewellyn, Early Rose, and 
other American varieties have done well 
generally. Having run rather short of 
manure last season when planting,’we opened 
trenches, placed in the sets, and scattered a 
little Canary guano along the drills at the 
rate of 41b. to the square rod, and the result 
has been good. Continue to plant out Let¬ 
tuces and Endives in warm position. Crops 
coming on should be tied to blanch ; Celery 
and Leeks also should be blanched either with 
paper or earth. Thin the last crop of Tur¬ 
nips to stand the winter to 14 inches or 
15 inches apart, so that the leaves may hug 
the ground and shelter the bulbs when frost 
comes. Get Cabbages in as early as the 
ground is ready. Plant a few thickly on the 
early border, to come first. A warm pit may 
be planted thinly with an early kind of dwarf 
French Bean. Cauliflowers are good now ; 
break a leaf over the hearts to shelter them 
and keep them white. Thin Spinach to 
6 inches. E. Hobday. 


THE COMING WEEK'S WORK. 

Extracts from a Garden Diary. 

September 23rd .—The hoe is being used 
freely among young crops in kitchen garden ; 
late Turnips and Spinach have been thinned, 
the former to 14 inches or 15 inches, and the 
Spinach to 6 inches. Wo always sow Ailsa 
Craig and Magnum Bonum Onions in August, 
and these two varieties are sown in boxes 
under glass early in February. Since we 
have adopted this plan we have had no 
trouble with the Onion-maggot. A turf pit 
has been filled with Lettuces. 

September 2.$th .—All the tender plants 
standing oil coal-ash beds have been placed 
under cover. Fresh linings have been placed 
round Cucumber and late Melon-beds, to re¬ 
new the warmth for a short time. We grow 
a good many Melons in pits and frames. 
Some of the earliest have been cleared out, 
the surface of the bed made firm, and. where 
necessary, a little fresh loam added, and 
Violets just coming into flower planted. A 
surfacing of ashes will be given by-and-bye, to 
keep down damp. 

September 2oth.~ Some of the early Apples 
have been gathered and placed thinly in 
fruit room, to be used promptly. Some of the 
Golden Drop Plums have been gathered and 


laid thinly on paper in fruit-room. They 
will keep a long time, if gathered a little be¬ 
fore they are dead ripe. Celery and Leeks 
are earthed up from time to time, when dry. 
Ne Plus Ultra Peas are throwing a good 
second crop. This is still one of the best 
flavoured Peas. 

September 26th .—The re-arrangement of 
the plant-houses is still going on. There are 
always a few old plants for which no room 
can be found, and these are disposed of in 
some way. Scarlet and other Salvias that 
were lifted are now well established, and are 
showing flower very well. Some of the 
earliest Chrysanthemums have been placed 
under cover. We have a canvas structure, 
which comes in very useful till the Tomatoes 
arc cleared out of the cool-bouse. 

September 2?th. Some re-arrangement will 
be done in the shrubberies and lawns. Every 
season there are small improvements to he 
made. Evergreens arc to be moved. One 
very large Yew-true has been moved. Last 
season a trench was opened round it, and 
fresh soil brought, to induce new fibres to 
break out. The specimen may be moved now 
wit h safety—at least , I think so- and shall 
begin upon it shortly. Some ground has 
been trenched up for a collection of Phloxes. 

September 2StJi.— Potatoes, except those re¬ 
quired for immediate use, have been 
clamped. Seed Potatoes will be treated in a 
similar way for the present. Later on they 
will he spread out thinly in a stable not in 
use, to make short, stout buds before plant¬ 
ing. I do not care to plant sets which have 
made long, weakly sprouts, and all early 
Potatoes will be reduced to one stem. 
Planted out more Cabbages and Lettuces. 
Sowed more Mignonette for winter flowering. 


LAW AND CU6TOM. 


THE DESTRUCTIVE INSECTS ACT, 1907. 
The Royal Assent has recently been given to 
a little Act of very considerable importance 
to horticulturists and market gardeners. It 
springs, of course, from the recent agitation 
concerning Gooseberry mildew and one or 
two other plagues which have reached our 
chores, and it is satisfactory to find that the 
Board of Agriculture and Fisheries has been 
wide awake enough to get a measure passed 
for dealing with the matter at so compara¬ 
tively early a date. 

This is not the first Insect Pest Act that 
has been placed upon the statute-book. In 
1877, at the time when the Colorado beetle 
scare arose, an Act was passed, known as the 
Destructive Insects Act, 1877, and the pro¬ 
visions of that measure are re-embodied in 
this new Act, which is to be cited together 
with it as the Destructive Insects and Pests 
Acts, 1877-1907. The Colorado Beetle Act 
gave power to the Privy Council (the power 
has since been transferred to the Board of 
Agriculture) to prohibit or regulate the land 
ing into Great Britain of Potatoes or parts of 
Potato plants, or of any other vegetable sub 
stance or other article, the landing whereof 
might appear likely to introduce the beetle 
into the country; further powfcr being re¬ 
served to order the destruction of any article 
so landed. Another clause gave power to the 
Council to make such orders as were thought 
expedient for preventing the spread of the 
pest, and under such powers the removal or 
destruction of any crop of Potatoes or other 
crops on which the insect had been found in 
any stage of existence, might be ordered. 
Lands could be entered upon for the purposes 
of investigation and destruction, and, in¬ 
deed. the whole force of the Contagious 
Diseases (Animals) Acts might be brought to 
bear for the enforcement of this measure 
through the machinery of the Local Govern¬ 
ment Board. 

Compensation was to be payable according 
to the following scale : (1) In the case of a 
crop on which the insect, in any state of 
existence, is found, the compensation shall 
not exceed one-half of the value of the crop: 
(2) In every other case the compensation not 
to exceed three-fourths of the value of the 
I crop. (3) The value j to be taken ns that 
which, in ordinary circumstances, the crop 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


September 21, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


399 


would have lia<l at the time of its removal 
or destruction. (4) The local authority, if 
they think fit, to require the value of the 
crop to be ascertained by their officers or by 
arbitration. (5) The local authority, if they 
think fit, may withhold compensation if in 
relation to the crop the owner or the person 
having change thereof has done anything in 
contravention of, or failed to do anything 
in compliance with, any Order under this 
Act. 

The penalty for offence® against any Order 
is £10 for each such offence, recoverable, 
with cost®, by magisterial proceedings. The 
Act. subject to a few variations of adminis¬ 
trative detail, is to apply to Ireland as well 
as to Great Britain. 

Such is a brief epitome of the Act which has 
now been brought forward again in the in¬ 
terest® of fruit-growers and gardeners. This 
statute of 1907 i« intituled “An Act to ex¬ 
tend the Destructive Insects Act, 1877, to 
all pests destructive to crops, trees, or 
bushes.” Its provisions are as follow : 

Section 1 says that the Board of Agricul¬ 
ture and Fisheries may, for the purpose of 
preventing the introduction into Great Bri 
tain of any insect, fungus, or other pest de¬ 
structive to agricultural or horticultural 
crops, or to trees or bushes, and for prevent¬ 
ing the spreading in Great Britain of any 
such insect, fungus, or other pest, exercise 
all such powers as may be exercised bv the 
Board in relation to the Colorado beetle 
under the Destructive Insect® Act, 1877; 
and that Act shall apply accordingly, as if in 
that Act the expression “insect ” included all 
such insects, fungi, and other pests, and the 
expression “crop” included all such crops, 
trees, and bushes. 

With regard, however, to compensation, 
there is this saving proviso, that the Board 
shall not make an Order directing the pay¬ 
ment of compensation by any local authority 
for the removal or destruction of any crop or 
any trees or bushes unless the local authority 
consent to make the payment. 

The Act is to apply also to Ireland, with 
th" substitution of the authority of the De¬ 
partment of Agriculture and Technical In¬ 
struction for Ireland for the Board of Agri¬ 
culture and Fisheries. Barrister. 


POULTRY. 

FEEDING LAYING HENS. 

There are few points in the management of 
laying hens of more vital importance than the 
feeding, and yet it is a question that is sel¬ 
dom given the attention it deserves. Many 
poultry keepers are in the habit of supplying 
certain foods to any and all classes of poultry 
—chickens, fattening birds, and laving hens 
— throughout the entire twelve months, alto¬ 
gether disregarding the important fact that 
some foods are more suitable during warm 
weather, while others may be used with ad¬ 
vantage during the winter which are not 
only unsuitable, but sometimes dangerous, 
during the summer. Certain foods, too, are 
excellent for chickens, but quite unfit for 
adult stock, while others, again, are suitable 
for fattening, but of little use for growing 
chickens. 

It is a self-evident fact that unless hens 
receive plenty of egg-forming material in the 
shape of food they cannot possibly produce 
many eggs. This point has been so frequently 
emphasised that many poultry-keepers supply 
their birds too generously, under the impres¬ 
sion that the more food the birds consume the 
greater will be the number of eggs produced. 
Over feeding, however, rather than increas¬ 
ing the egg supply actually decreases it, as 
fat hens are worse layers than those in a 
lean, hard condition, while a larger percent¬ 
age of the eggs is infertile. 

When the weather is cold, heat-producing 
foods should be employed—those strong in 
carbo-hydrates and fat. Barley-meal is more 
suitable than middlings during the winter 
months, because it assists in maintaining the 
heat of the body, thus encouraging the 6iipply 
of eggs. Maize in small quantities is excel¬ 
lent. but it must not be too liberally sup¬ 
plied, because it goes so speedily to the for¬ 
mation of fat. Bran is of little use, save for 
adding bulk to the food A, good mixture for 

Digitized by O' glC 


morning use is composed of tin; following: 
Three parts barley-meal, two parts middlings, 
two parts Maize, one of Pea or Bean-meal, 
and half a part of granulated meat. This 
should be supplied to the hens in a warm and 
crumbly moist condition. Rather than give 
cold mash during the winter, I would feed 
the hens upon grain alone, ns it stands to 
reason that if they take into their systems a 
quantity of cold water a large proportion of 
the food will be required to maintain the 
temperature of the body. The most suitable 
grains for winter use* are Barley. Wheat, and 
Maize, in equal proportions. Stimulants - 
of which there are some excellent ones upon 
the market -should be sparingly used, and 
the quantities stated on the directions never 
exceeded. The too liberal supply of egg- 
producing powders is liable to do more harm 
than good. 

I have already pointed out how mistaken a 
policy it is to keep the liens in too fat a 
condition, and in order to prevent the food 
running to fat the birds should be encouraged 
to take plenty of exercise, laziness being one 
of the most common causes of poor laying. 
Attached to the roosting compartment there 
should lx* a covered in shed, which should be 
kept littered in straw or chaff, among which 
the grain should be scattered, especially dur¬ 
ing wet weather, when the birds are better 
under cover. In this ease only half rations 
should be supplied first tiling in the morn¬ 
ing. followed about nine o’clock with some 
grain scattered in the litter. This keeps the 
birds busy till about, midday, preventing 
them getting into mischief. The afternoon 
grain should be scattered about 2.30 p.m.. 
giving the birds occupation till they go to 
roost. The work involved in scratching 
about for food will keep the hens in a lean 
and hard condition, which, besides increasing 
the egg yield, acts as a preventive against 
egg eating, feather-picking, and kindred 
vices. A Mangold or Turnip suspended from 
the roof to within a few inches of the ground 
will afford them healthful exercise, and it is 
surprising what a large quantity they will eat. 

E. T. B. 


THE DRY SYSTEM OF FEEDING 
CHICKENS. 

In the previous article which appeared on 
this subject on page 301, I pointed out that it 
is inadvisable to continue feeding the 
chickens on grains alone after they are a 
month old, because it is found in practice 
that they require one or two meals a day of 
more easily assimilated fowl. Personally, I 
prefer to supply two meals a day, one first 
thing in the morning, and another about 
two or 2.30 p.m. After the long fast of the 
night (sometimes of fourteen or fifteen hours’ 
duration during the winter or early spring) 
th° chickens require something that they can 
quickly digest, because their systems are 
quite empty, and for this purpose soft fowl 
is very suitable. If the dry feeding is con¬ 
tinued much longer than a month, the 
chickens do not thrive nearly so well, nor do 
they attain the same size when mature. 

There is a variety of foods suitable for 
feeding first thing in the morning, but there 
is nothing quite so good as one of the spe¬ 
cially prepared biscuit-meals made by several 
well-known firms. They possess tiie great 
advantage of being cooked, so it is only 
necessary to add a little hot water to obtain 
an easily digestible and very nutritious food. 
The best preparations are a little expensive, 
but I have always found that it is false 
economy to stint gowl food during the early 
days of a fowl's life. In order to provide a 
variation, so necessary in rearing any kind 
of stock, an occasional feed of barley-meal, 
ground oats, middlings, or boiled rice 
should l>e supplied. Whatever is given 
should lx* well soaked, and fed to the birds in 
a crumbly-moist condition ; sloppy food is not 
so readily eaten, besides which it is liable to 
cause bowel trouble. The rice especially re¬ 
quires careful preparation, because if not 
thoroughly prepared, it does more harm 
than good. To one part of rice three parts 
of water should be added, and the two al¬ 
lowed to simmer on the fire for a few' hours 
until the rice has absorbed all the water. 
Unless each grain is well swollen out it will 


probably cause a good deal of inconvenience 
to the youngsters. 

After the first month the mixture of grains 
should be changed, leaving out the more ex¬ 
pensive, and substituting a larger proportion 
of those at a lower price. A good mixture is 
as follows : Three parts of wheat, dari, maize, 
two parts of buckwheat and meat, one part of 
millet, linseed, and grit. The linseed i6 very 
useful when the chickens are feathering, al¬ 
ways rather a trying time, and the addition 
of one part to the mixture has an excellent 
effect. The wheat and maize require to be 
cracked, as they are too large in a whole 
state. A distinction must, be made between 
“cracking” and “crushing”; the aim is 
not to grind them, but, merely to crack them 
so as to make them of a more suitable size. 

When the dry system of feeding is adopted, 
it is of the utmost importance to supply the 
chickens generously with green food. With¬ 
out it they will not thrive well, nor will they 
remain healthy, as it is necessary to them 
in order to keep the bowels in good working 
order and the blood cool. Lettuces are the 
best form, but they arc generally too expen¬ 
sive for feeding to poultry. Failing these, 
the tender leaves of cabbages, or. in fact, any 
garden refuse, answer the purpose. A little 
later in the season ordinary stinging nettles 
are very beneficial, and have an excellent 
medicinal effect; they require to be boiled, 
chopped up, and mixed with the soft food. 

In conclusion, 1 should like to reiterate 
very briefly the manifest advantages that 
the dry system possesses over the moist, be¬ 
cause once these are grasped, I am confident 
that the system will be even more widely 
adopted than is at present, the case. The 
chickens are stronger, healthier, and more 
vigorous; there is an almost entire absence 
of bowel trouble; the percentage of mortality 
is greatly reduced; the chickens are con¬ 
tinually scratching about, thus obtaining 
abundance of exercise ; labour is enormously 
economised ; and the cost of rearing is much 
reduced. There arc two drawbacks to the 
dry method of feeding, both of which, how¬ 
ever, are unimportant compared with the 
great advantages. In the first place, waste 
of food so easily occurs; and in the second 
the chickens do not. grow quite so quickly 
during the feathering period. E. T. B. 


BEES. 

Syrup for bee-feeding ( R. C. N .).—Syrun 
for autumn feeding should be made as fol¬ 
lows : Cane sugar. 10 lb. ; water, 5 pints; salt, 
l oz. ; vinegar, 1 tablespoonful. The same 
recipe also answers well for spring use if an 
extra two pints of water be added. The 
amount of syrup needed by each hive depends 
partly upon the quantity of sealed stores that, 
each hive contains, and partly upon tlm 
strength of the stock, so that each hive 
should lx; fed in accordance \^h its indivi¬ 
duality. A stock of medium strength re 
quires about 24 lb. of stores to see it safely 
through the winter, and a very strong stock 
should he provided with about 30 lb. Exa¬ 
mine each hive carefully, therefore, make a 
note of deficiency of food in each case, and 
then feed accordingly, feeding as rapidly as 
possible. A standard frame holds about 6 lb. 
of stores. This has been a bad honey season 
in most parts of the country, but we must 
hope for a better one next year. Kindly write 
upon one side of the paper next time. Wo 
cannot make out the name, but hope the ini¬ 
tials are right.—J. T. Bird. 


BIRDS. 

Death of parrot (Gen. If.).— Tho diarrhoea 
weakened the bird considerably, and this, re¬ 
acting upon the digestive organs, resulted 
eventually in a stoppage at the gizzard. The 
mischief was due to greenstuff of some kind, 
but some sudden change of food may have 
helped in the matter. When a bird is w'eak, 
any change of diet must be made with the 
greatest of care, for foods that, under normal 
conditions, would be quite suitable, might, 
when a bird is weak, cause serious trouble. 
The bird was a very fine one, and we are 
sorry for your loss.— J. T. Bird. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



400 


G.l UDEMjYG illustr. vied. 


Septembbr 21, 1907 


CORRESPONDENCE. 


Questions.— Queries and answers are inserted in 
Gardening free of charge if correspondents follow these 
rules: All communications should be clearly and concisely 
written on one side of the paper only, and addressed to 
the Editor of Gardening, 17, Furnioalstreet, Ilolborn, 
London, E.C. Letters on business should be scut to the 
Publisher. The name and address of the sender are 
required in a/ldition to any designation he may desire to 
he. used in the paper. When more than one query is sent , 
each should b' on a separate piece of paper, and not more 
than three queries should be sent at a time. Corres/wn- 
dents should bear in mind that, as Gardening has to be 
sent to press some time in advance of date., queries cannot 
always be replied to in the issue immediately following 
the receipt of their communication. We do not reply to 
queries by post. 

Naming fruit.— Headers who desire our help in 
naming fruit should bear in mind that several specimens 
in different stages of colour and sizs of the same kind 
greatly assist in its determination. We have received from 
several correspomlcnts single specimens of fruits for 
naming, these in many cases heimj unripe and other- 
ivise poor. The differences Itetween varieties of fruits are 
in many cases so triding that it is necessary that three 
specimens of each kind should be sent. We can undertake 
to name only four varieties at a time, and these only when 
the above directions are observed. 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

Vallota (O'. G .).—The Vallota should now be 
placed in the greenhouse, and, in all probability, the 
bull), if of sufficient size, will presently flower. Pro¬ 
vided that the ’plant is healthy, do not repot it, as 
it is impatient of disturbance. Not much water is 
required between this and the end of the year. 

Injured Clematis (Sandy Soil).—The leaves of 
your Clematis and Deutzia are not , I believe, attacked 
by any insert, but by one of the “ shot hole ” fungi, 
which species 1 cannot say UvS 1 cannot find any of tlie 
fruit. Next year, if the disease again makes its ap¬ 
pearance, spray with one of the fungicides recom¬ 
mended to “ H.,’” in this week’s issue. (.See “ Roses” 
department.)—G. 8. S. 

Pancratium maritimum (G. G .).—'This plant is 
nearly hardy, and usually flowers in Mayor June. It 
having failed to do eo is perhaps due to its small 
size or to indifferent culture. The plant should he 
kept absolutely dry when no leaves are present, and 
watered freely and liberally when in full growth. 
Upon a well developed leafage a good flowering de¬ 
pends. if the seedlings ure now leafless, keep them 
rather dry at the root for the next two months. 
Then repot in sandy loam and gradually encourage 
growth.—Ji. J. 

Tropaeoleum polyphyllum <G. G.).— \s the 
plant has not started into growth, you had better 
examine it to see whether it is still alive or not. 
Occasionally the tubers of this plant will retain a 
certain amount of vitality while refusing to grow 
for a time. As a rule, however, the growth point 
has been injured or become blind, and then only 
rarely does the plant pay for retaining. If the 
tuber is sound and plump upon examination, place it 
in dry sand for n time, and presently —say. at the 
end of the year—pot it afresh, and see if it responds. 

If not, discard it. or plant it on a hot and sunny 
bank as a last resource.—E. J. 

Roses for west wall ( Beginner. Nottingham).— 
Yes, Climbing Caroline Testout would be a splendid 
sort for such a wall, and it. is so hardy and free tliat 
you could not better it. If you require a second one, 
plant Climbing Mrs. W. J. Grant. A plant or two 
of the ordinary Caroline Testout planted at the base 
of the wall would furnish you with blossom whilst 
the climbing form was becoming established, and as 
the latter is a Rose somewhat given to becoming 
hare at the base, the dwarf form would remedy this. 
Such a thing might frequently be done with ad¬ 
vantage with many other sorts planted, or harmonis¬ 
ing colours could bo planted for the same object. 

Duckweed {Moilington ).—This is one of the most 
troublesome of feinual aquatic weeds, and if allowed 
to seed is very difficult to grapple with. At the pre¬ 
sent time, wc fear a large crop of seeds is already 
installed for another year. If you have no fish, 
waterfowl, or Water Lilies in or upon the pond, you 
might experiment with one of the ordinary weed¬ 
killers obtainable from the horticultural sundries- 
men: but, if either of these arc present, your only 
remedy is by skimming the weed off with a canvas 
net, assisted by a punt. In spring or early summer, 
when the weed begins to appear, you might reduce 
it by introducing waterfowl, ducks, or the like, not, 
however, if the water lias previously been treated 
with the weed killer. 

Roses for south border (Beginner, Notting¬ 
ham).— You should certainly utilise such a wall for ' 
some of the beautiful fust-growing Roses, and the 
liorder would be a suitable one to plant some Roses, 
w ith a view of pegging them down, as you desire to 
study economy. We should not advocate perennials, 
as it would be much too hot for most of these plants. 
Any of the free-blooming and free-growing Roses 
could be planted in a double row, the plants 4 feet 
to G feet apart and pegged down. We should sug¬ 
gest such sorts as Gruss an Teplitz, Lady Waterlow, 
Gustave Regis, Mine. Wagram, W. A. Richardson, 
Jlrae. Alfred Carrtere. Mme. H. Leuilliot, Mmc, 
Isaac Perch e, Francois Crousse, Alister Stella Gray, 
Billiard et BarrC*. etc. These, if pruned rather 
severely,send up strong 4-feet to 5-feet growths, which 
should he bent over and pegged down to within 
alxuit IS ire-lies of the ground during May and Juno. 
They will then break into new- growth, resulting in a 
lovely lot of bloom later. If the old shoots pass 
through the winter unharmed, some of these should 
be reserved for pegging down in April. A nice feature 
would lie to plant six or eight half standards along 
this border, and they would have a very pretty 
effect, especially if of the semi-drooping sorts such as 

Digitized by GO' glC 


named above, or the exquisite Monthly Roses of 
which there is now such an exquisite variety. You 
do not say height of the south wall, but if rampant 
growers are wanted, plant the freer-growing Teas 
and Noisettes, such as Reve d'Or, Clline Forestier, 
Lamarque, Mme. Berard. Waltham Climber No. I. 
Kaiseriu Friedrich, Noella Nabonnand, Mme. Jules 
Grnvereaux, I)r. Rouges, Climbing La France, Ards 
Pillar, etc. These should be planted about 4 feet to 
fi feet apart. Do not fail to have ground well 
trenched before planting Roses. 

Water Lilies (Chump).—There is no book upon 
the subject, so far us we know; but the ‘‘English 
Flower Garden ” deals freely with Water Lilies und 
their cultivation. In the matter of growing these 
plants there is not much to learn, and the roots may¬ 
be planted in and secured to wieker-haskets in which 
heavy loam and cow-manure have been placed, and 
subsequently sunk into their respective positions. 
Any pond having a depth of water of not less than 
2 feet would be suitable, and once started and estab¬ 
lished in the rich mud of the pond bottom, not much 
attention would be necessary. The planting may be 
done from November to March inclusive, and there 
are many sorts much more free in flowering than the 
one you name, and others of rose, sulphur, carmine, 
etc. We doubt the wisdom of introducing the swans, 
however; and it is more than likely that these will 
quickly spoil the good work previously accomplished. 

Roses for verandah UJugonet ).—You could not 
do better than plant some of the beautiful Wichu- 
raiana Roses on such a verandah. They make most 
rapid growth, and when not in bloom the foliage is 
delightfully bright and pleasing. A verandah 20 feet 
long would accommodate three plants each side. 
They would soon cover this, and when too strong, 
the growths can always he restricted to any require¬ 
ments. Sorts we should recommend are Alberic Bar- 
bier, Lady Gay, Gardenia, and Hiawatha, and for the 
end pillars plant Grass an Teplitz and Mine. Alfred Car- 
rifrre, which would give you a good, prolonged season, 
when you would have some blossom on either one or 
the other. Crimson Rambler should do very well on 
the screen referred to; but we think we should prefer 
Hiawatha, as its foliage is so very bright and glisten¬ 
ing, and the line clusters of single scarlet blossoms 
are so useful for table or other decorations. A very 
practical manual on the Rose is " Roses and Rose 
Culture,” by Wo. Paul, price Is. 

Polyanthus Narcissus (Brampton).—If the 
growths were so cut down by frost as to he injured 
for the season, and no good foliage resulted after¬ 
wards in eon sequence, we cannot advise you to rely 
upon them for another year, more particularly for 
the purpose for which you require them. It is rarely 
these things .suffer to any great extent from frost, 
and we can but assume that the bulbs were of the 
Guernsey or Channel Islands growth, and, making 
an early start in the open, were more susceptible to 
the frost. Such bulbs may frequently be brought 
round in course of time by adopting a liberal 
measure of cultivation. Are you sure that you 
planted the bulbs sufficiently deep iu the ground. 
We frequently see the bulbs barely covered by the 
soil, even when definite instructions have been given 
as to planting. You might, with every advantage, 
plant not less than 5 inches deep for these big-grow¬ 
ing sorts that is, the top of the bulb may be this 
depth in the ground. You do not. say what time of 
the year the exhibition is held, and possibly a later 
planting would be more suitable, or, with a view of 
securing the beat developed flowers, pot. and cold- 
frame cultivation could be indulged in. For exhibi¬ 
tion work perfectly clean and fully-developed flowers 
are most desirable. 

WeedB on lawn (Weedy Lawn). — Why did not. you 
tell us what the weeds arc? It should be obvious 
that they differ in character, and though we can tell 
you no royal road to getting rid of them, some idea 
of the varieties to be dealt with and the extent to 
which they compete with the Grass would be helping 
in coming to a conclusion as to the prosjiects of 
ultimate success. Some lawns are so weedy that 
there seem to be only two courses open—either to 
let them alone or to break up and remake. The 
mast common weeds on lawns are Daisies, Plantains, 
and Dandelions, and w r e really know of no better 
method of dealing with these than uprooting them. 
‘‘More come,” you say. Alas! we know it well, and 
so, probably, does everyone who has tried it. The 
truth is that any rubbish is considered good enough 
turf to lay down for a lawn, and endless trouble is 
the consequence, for the weeds are almost as 
numerous as the Grass plants, and probably the soil 
is full of weed seeds, which only wait favourable 
conditions for germinating. We fancy, however, that 
iu many cases the “ others that come ” arc the after¬ 
growth' of the plants you fancy you have destroyed. 
In the case of Dandelions, especially, any small por¬ 
tion of the root left will grow again, though, no 
doubt, repeatedly cutting off the leaves ns soon as they 
appear will kill them in time; but the time isn't 
short. You had better make a mental calculation of 
the labour needed to spud up all the weeds, ami con¬ 
sider whether it would he easier to re-sow—one on the 
spot can alone decide this. But the slow and steady 
process is worth trying, if you have patience. We 
have been dealing so lately with a tennis-lawn that 
it was not desired to break up, and the improve¬ 
ment, if slow, is marked. Manures will help the 
weeds as much as the Grass, probably—at any rate, 
you will not get rid of the weeds by manuring, 
although you may make use of the preparation known 
as lawn sand with good effect. 

TREES AND SHRUBS. 

Escallonias (A. L. S. C .).—The Escallonias may 
be removed at any time now, lifting them with as 
much soil as possible. 

Quick hedge (Jlfenai).—To form a good thick bot¬ 
tom to the hedge you cannot do better than prune 
the young shoots to about one-half their length. 
Where an old hedge has been cut down in the way 
you describe there is always a tendency on the part 
of the new growth to grow quickly in an erect 


manner. In such circumstances you might after two 
or three years “ pleach ” or “ lay " the stronger 
shoots, and in this way build up a substantial fence. 

Small tree for sea coast (A. G. Page).— If the 
Euonymous would be of sulllcient size, you could 
plant this without fear. One of the best trees, how¬ 
ever, for the purpose is the Evergreen Oak (Quercus 
Ilex). The tree simply revels in such places, though 
it does not appear to relish the direct influence of 
the salt spray when this reaches the plant. 

FRUIT. 

Diseased Victoria Plum (A. G. C.).—The dying 
of branches of a Victoria Plum-tree is a somewhat 
common occurrence, sometimes due to excesshe 
cropping, at other times to bad root action. It is, 
without doubt, the latter trouble with your tree. 
Roots go too deep, and get into poor or sour soil. 
Your tree is too old to lift ana replant-, hence you 
had better open a trench round it 4 feet from the 
stem. Have all small roots, but cut off all downward 
ones. With a broad, sharp, chisel, fixed on to a long, 
wood handle, and a stout mallet, drive that under 
the tree 2 feet down, and cut oil all roots you find. 
When you refill the trench, get fresh soil, if possible, 
and mix with it wood-ashes, a little soot, and a small 
quantity of bone-flour. Tread the soil in firmly as 
you refill. All decaying branches should be cut out, 
and new ones laid in. 

Plums gumming (./. C .).—Gumming in Plums is 
due to various causes; sometimes to v excessive or 
coarse growth, sometimes to exhaustion due to ex¬ 
cessive fruiting, and other times t-o poorness of soil 
into which the roots may have got. You say your 
tree of Belle dc Louvain has borne much of late, 
hence it is most likely the soil it is growing in is 
exhausted of phosphates ami potash. The latter 
would be replaced by adding to the soil a good dress¬ 
ing of wood-ashes, if you have such. If not, get 
2 lb. of kainit- and the same of bone-flour, well 
mixed, and fork in one-half the quantity about the 
trees at once and the other half in February. A 
mulch or dressing of stable-manure over the roots in 
April for the summer may help also. It is possible 
roots have got. deep into poor soil, and, if so, it 
will be difficult to reach them with top-dressing. A 
trench opened round the tree and these manures 
mixed with the lower soil might do most good. 

VEGETABLES. 

Manure for garden <7\ J. IFotson).—No doubt 
all the manures you mention would be useful, but 
they have no special value in improving the condi¬ 
tion of heavy soil, and the potash, which is the chief 
ingredient supplied by the wood-ashes, is, probably, 
not required, as it is light soils that are generally 
deficient in this. We think some good, well decayed 
farmyard, or stable, or byre manure would be the 
best thing you could use. You might try the effect 
of coal-ashes also, as they open the soil. A “ rather 
heavy soil ” is. in all probability, good soil. and. if 
not suffering from want of drainage, and “opened 
up ” a little, you ought to have no difficulty in 
growing satisfactorily the things you wish to culti¬ 
vate. 

MISCELLANEOUS. 

Pond mud (Labots ).—Pond mud. naturally, varies 
greatly in quality; but, speaking generally, it is of 
value as a dressing to pasture or other land. When 
so used it is held that, there is some danger if it 
is applied without admixture with lime, frequent 
turnings, etc., inasmuch as purasites that infect 
animals may be conveyed to the stock. Such con¬ 
siderations, however, do not affect its garden use, 
and need not trouble you. But when you say, put 
“ straight on,” do you mean conveyed direct from 
the pond to the garden withflut lying by at all? It 
will be in a very liquid condition, and, apart from the 
extra labour of carting a deal of unnecessary water, 
this can hardly be a desirable proceeding. We do not 
consider, however, that, any great harm can result, 
and you may treat it as one of convenience. When 
it is' dry and friable you can use the material in 
almost any direction with advantage; but. as stated 
above, its value depends upon circumstances, and it is 
probably, in the generality of cases, not nearly so 
valuable as people seem to think. It could, however, 
hardly fail to be useful on your light, loamy soil. 
We see no objection to the course you suggest, but 
should prefer the material to be somewhat dry. 


SHORT REPLIES. 

Pyrford.— We should think that Hobday’s " Villa 
Gardening ” would answer your purjKise. You should 
subscribe to this paper, in which you will find, under 
the head of ” Garden Work ” and “ The Coming 
Week’s Work." what has to be done in every depart¬ 
ment of the garden for each week.- Col. Iliekie.— 

See reply to your query in our issue of .Septem¬ 
ber 14th, p. 382, under the nom dc plume of “North 
Kerry.” __ 

NAMES OF PLANTS AND PRUITS. 

Names of plants. E. M. Spencer-Being packed 
in dry cotton-wool the flowers were very much 
shrivelled, but we believe they are: 1, Lycaste Can¬ 
dida; 2, Oncidium ornithorrhynchum.- Wm. Wilson. 

-Please do; evidently the other was overlooked.- 

Mrs. Barthrop.— The Nettle-tree (Celtis occidental^). 

- L. Court .—The Wig-tree (Rhus Cotinus).- Land- 

grubber.—OxaUs hirta. 

Name of fruit — M. R —3, We are sorry, but the 
single fruit- arrived bruised and minus the stalk, an 
important point in identification, and we will not 
venture to name it. It may be Duke of Edinburgh. 


Readers on holiday. During the holiday season 
readers who find any difficulty in obtaining Garden¬ 
ing Illustrated from the local newsagent or book¬ 
stall. may have a copy posted regularly for a few 
weeks or longer by sending a remittance at the rate 
of l^d. a ropy to the Publisher, Gardening Ilu-s- 
tratfj», 17, Fnrnival-strtfet, Holborn, London, E.C. 



URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


No. 1,490— Vol. XXIX. 


Founded by W. Robinson, Autkor of “ The. English Flower Garden.” 


SEPTEMBER 28, 1907. 


INDEX. 


.EscuIub parvi flora .. 411 

Agapamhus for tub .. 405 
Anemone*. Crown .. 408 

Arbutus, the .. .. 411 

Artemisia lactiflora .. 400 
Asparagus Sprengeri .. 405 
Asters, a parasite on .. 413 
Beans. Runner .. .. 401 

Begonias, growing .. 400 

Birch in the pleasure- 
grounds, the .. 411 

Bulbs in hanging l»as- 

ket* .406 

Bulba, potting and box¬ 
ing .412 

Campanula isophyllu 

alba .406 

Carnations and Roses, 
greenhouse for .. 413 


Carnation layers, mak¬ 
ing .408 

Celery, blanching .. 401 
Cherry, the Morello .. 410 
Chimney Bellflower 
(Campanula pyratui- 
dalis), the .. .. 405 

Chrysanthemum im¬ 
proved Masse, early- 
Howering .. 404 

Chrysauthemum Source 

d'Or .404 

Chrysanthemums .. 404 
Chrysanthemums — 
housing the plants .. 401 
Chrysanthemums, new 
early-flowering .. 404 
Climber for lean-to 
house in a town .. 406 


Combination, a striking 411 
Conservatory .. .. 412 

Creepers on walls .. 40'.) 

Daffodils, planting .. 408 

Echeverias during the 

winter.406 

Endive, storing and 
blanching .. 402 

Flower borders, tidying 408 

Fruit .419 

Fruit culture .. ..414 

Fruit garden .. .. 412 

Fuchsias, lifting stan¬ 
dard .406 

Galtonia candiranit .. 413 

Garden diary, extracts 

from a.412 

Gardener? amateur, 
what is an .. .. 402 


Garden, shade‘d kitehon 

402 , 

Garden work 

412 1 

Geranium cuttings 

4(M1 

Hollies and Yews, «ui- 


ting back 

414 

Indoor plants 

4Ui 

Lathyrus White Pearl 

409 

Lonicera Maat-ki 

411 1 

Onions, bull-necked 

402 

Outdoor garden .. 

412 

Outdoor plants .. 

40/ 

Parsley for winter cut- 


ting . 

402 

Pear-slug, the .. 

410 

Peas, Sweet 

408 

Pelargoniums, keeping 

406 

Plants ami flowers 

403 

Plants, flne-foliaged, in 


an Irish garden 

407 


Plants for bed .. .. 413 

Plants for carpet .. 408 
Plants for fountain 

basin.413 

Plants for succession, 
stove flowering .. 405 
Plants for table decora¬ 
tion .412 

Plants for wiiulow- 

hoxes .412 

Plants, hard-wooded .. 412 
Romneya Coulteri in 
Co. Wicklow, Ireland 40fl 
Root lifting .. 409 

Rose Earl of War¬ 
wick .403 

Roses .4U3 

Roses and Clematis for 
arch .403 


Roses, climbing, for 
rustic fence 403 

Roses in alight soil .. 403 
Roses in cold green¬ 
house .. .. 413 

Royal Horticultural Ho- 

eiety .413 

Shrubs for back¬ 
ground .411 

Stove .413 

Straw borry culture, 

notes on.410 

Tomatoes.401 

Trees and shrubs 411 

Vegetable garden .. 412 
Vegetables .. ., 401 

Vines, lifting roots of .. 412 
Week's work, Lho 
coming.412 


VEGETABLES. 

TOMATOES. 

While it is just possible that we have in 
present-day Tomatoes varieties that are as 
heavy cropping as Tomato-plants well can 
he. there seems to remain to aim for in 
farther raising of varieties such increase in 
flavour and solidity of flesh a.s can yet be 
secured. So far as density of flesh in fruits 
is concerned, no doubt sunshine plays an im¬ 
portant part, as it is well known that sum¬ 
mer-grown fruits have greater solidity than 
those equally well grown in the winter have. 
Still, far too many well-grown summer fruits 
have too much pocket, pulp, and seed in 
them, whilst a fruit which, on being cut in 
halves transversely, shows very little of these 
latter features, and a good deal of solid 
flesh, is far more uncommon. But it is just 
that latter feature or property at which 
raisers should aim, and it will be rather a 
good thing if henceforth no award of merit or 
certificate be made to any variety that does 
not show material advance in this desired 
direction. We cannot expect to get rid of 
seed production altogether, nor in such 
annual plants as Tomatoes would it be desir¬ 
able ; but, all the same, seeds are far too 
abundantly produced. Consumed with the 
pulp, they do not digest. A fruit which pro¬ 
duced twelve seeds only would, if the space 1 
were occupied by solid flesh, be amply repro¬ 
ductive, and yet have vastly increased food 
value. 

But the infusion of higher flavour into the 
Tomato presents, perhaps, a greater diffi¬ 
culty. There is no chance whatever of get¬ 
ting from any other source than Tomatoes 
any diverse taste or flavour. The late Dr. 
Masters once suggested the possibility of 
getting a cross between the Tomato and the 
Capsicum, in the hope of infusing into the 
former a little of the heat of the latter. That 
is, we fear, an anticipation which will never 
be realised. Of alL the Solatium family, with 
which the Tomato is so closely allied, there is 
no species that can give assistance. If any 
be, it must be looked for solely within the 
ranks of existing Tomatoes. A few weeks 
since I saw' growing in one of the long glass 
corridors at Frogmore many tall plants all 
heavily fruited, of the red-berried variety 
called Cascade. It is, probably, known by 
other designations. The variety, as seen at 
Windsor, carried myriads of pretty round 
fruits, the size of full-grown Cherries, hang¬ 
ing on long stems in the form of racemes. 
Tanging from 15 inches to 30 inches in length. 
As a decorative fruiter it was quite charm¬ 
ing. But- the fruits, freshly gathered, did 
seem to have greater flavour or piquancy than 
do those of larger fruited varieties, and I 
would suggest that by crossing that on to 
Golden Nugget, the best flavoured of the yel¬ 
low fruiters, something might be got even bet¬ 
ter than anything we j^et have. But higher 
flavour in Tomatoes is needed, chiefly to ren 
der them fitted for/toe.^jesse^t* 



Pleasant and refreshing as newly-gathered 
Tomatoes may be. they have no chance for 
flavour when eaten with real flavoured des¬ 
sert fruits. To put them as dessert on a par 
with these fruits, we do not need large ones, 
because fruits which need cutting to be eaten, 
or have to be bitten two or three times, are 
objectionable. The smaller fruited Red Cur¬ 
rant Tomato, one seldom grown because the 
fruits are so small, is yet one of the best 
flavoured in commerce. Still, with that, as 
with all varieties, the more quickly the fruits 
are eaten after being gathered the fresher 
and pleasanter do they taste. It should not 
be beyond the powers of raisers, so fecund 
are they, so quick to grow and fruit, 60 easy 
are they to intercross, to produce something 
that shall be for the table distinctly superior 
to any other now grown. Anyone undertak¬ 
ing euch improvement should not seek for 
pecuniary compensation. It is rather work 
for an amateur grower and devotees. To 
create what is wanted may take several years, 
but unless it is set about in a practical way 
it will never be accomplished. So far as ordi¬ 
nary market varieties are concerned, the 
height of development has been practically 
reached. A. D. 


BLANCHING CELERY. 

To get tender and crisp heads of Celery for 
late autumn and early winter use, much care 
and attention are necessary from early Sep¬ 
tember onwards. The plants never looked 
better. With rae the frequent showers kept 
them growing immediately they were set out 
in the trenches. This, with a good soaking 
of water at the roots when found dry, has 
suited their requirements. This latter item 
is important in the successful culture of 
Celery, which cannot make real progress 
when dry at the root, and with such a mass 
of fibrous roots as the plants make, it is well- 
nigh impossible to over-water. Before any 
moulding or earthing up is undertaken, give 
the trenches a thorough soaking a day or so 
previous, manuri&L or otherwise, as the case 
may demand, and let the heads be perfectly 
dry before adding any soil to keep the hearts 
of the plants from light and air. The first 
necessary attention after this is to go over 
each plant separately, removing a few of the 
lower leaves and all side-shoots that can be 
seen, then, with a mixture of fresh slacked 
lime and soot, dust well the stems to kill 
any slugs and to ward off others that may 
be lurking close bv, or the edible part will 
be sadly disfigured by these pests. This 
earthing up is best performed by three pairs 
of hands, after the adjoining soil has been 
well pulverised with the garden-fork, one 
man on either side with a spade, the third 
hand laying hold of the top of the plants, 
one in each hand, while the two place the 
soil in between with the spade, the former 
working down the soil moderately firm with 
his hands, and seeing that no soil goes in to 
cripple the plant from further growth, or a 
deformed head will result. Two, and some¬ 


times three, applications of soil are necessary, 
much depending upon the growth that has 
been made, but two should always he given, 
each time guarding against adding too much 
soil, which will either cripple the growth or 
rot the hearts. As a rule, six weeks are 
sufficient to blanch the stems, so that a part 
only of the entire crop need be done at any 
one time. The rows that are required to 
supply produce from the New Year onwards 
should not be finally moulded up until No¬ 
vember, early or late- according to the 
weather. Much severe frost would kill the 
plants, but the hardier the plants are grown 
during late summer and early autumn the 
better are they able to withstand the winter’s 
frost and cold. J. Mayne. 

fiirton, Devon. 


RUNNER BEANS. 

I quite agree with the remarks of “A. D.” 
(page 373) respecting both the samples and 
the treatment of this crop by market growers. 
Imagine my amazement on visiting a large 
retail vegetable store to be told that the fine 
garden samples of Scarlet Runners were 
practically unsaleable, customers regarding 
them as old and stringy, because of their size. 
They preferred the short, rougher samples 
they have been accustomed to purchase. 
This plainly shows the ignorance of the pur¬ 
chasing public, and is certainly very discour¬ 
aging to the hybridist and seed grower, who, 
very rightly, from a garden standpoint, have 
striven to improve the length, colour, and 
tenderness of the pod. A consignment of 
these fine garden-grown Beans I saw in the 
greengrocer’s shop recently was said to bo 
practically unsaleable—a fact which could not 
do other than bring loss to the producer and 
purchaser. It is strange that the purchasing 
public should be so slow to recognise merit 
in vegetable product#. The pride of the gar¬ 
dener and the seedsman, too, is centred upon 
the mammoth pod, and what would he the 
exhibition value of a sample of such medio* 
crity as satisfies the market purchaser? The 
idea of tying these Beans in one or two- 
pound bundles seemed to me an excellent one 
—most advantageous to the retailer ns well 
as the buyer—but such prospects are at once 
rebutted by this later market incident. The 
passing season has been one eminently suited 
to the podding of staked Beans. Whether 
the dwarf, pinched rows are similarly pro¬ 
ductive, I am unable to say. hut when so un¬ 
duly plentiful there is but little profit from 
their growth and disposal—at least, not in 
provincial towns and cities. Remembering 
this, one cannot but reflect on the heavy cost 
incurred in stakes or string, in order to pro¬ 
vide what, in many seasons, is a profitless 
crop. Much that applies to the sale of the 
Scarlet Runner applies also to the smooth- 
podded French Bean. There is a prejudice at, 
once raised against these as soon as the 
rougher-skinned Runner appears. That lho 
Frencli Bean sells freely enough up to this 
period is well known, because there is then 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




























402 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Sehember 28, 1907 


no other alternative, and it is strange that 
the tastes of buyers which have been niado 
familiar with these refined pods up to this 
date should at, once, as it were, reject them 
for the rest of the season. My experience of 
French Beans is the opposite, for the Scarlet 
Runner is accepted only when there are no 
French Beans available, and even then there 
is a marked tardiness in their acceptance and 
use. The Runner forms of these French 
Beans afford fine pods, which are succulent, 
tender, and abundantly produced ; but, so 
far as the market is concerned, what gain 
follows their cultivation? It cannot be that 
consumers know nothing of the merits of 
these Beans, because up to the time when the 
Scarlet Runners appear they are in constant 
request. 

One of the finest of the Runner section is 
Carter's Emperor. I have gathered plenty 
this year of these succulent pods. 12 inches 
to 14 inches in length, and, possibly, even 
longer than tliis, but, fine ns they arc, they 
receive no favour cither in the kitchen or in 
the market. Truly, such a state of things Is 
deplorable, and the enthusiasm derived from 
the growth of these pedigree strains suffers 
a check. Whether the tying in bundles 
would prove an advantage in the case of these 
mammoth Scarlet Runners remains to he 
seen. New customs seem so slow of accept¬ 
ance that the cost of experiment makes the 
producer shrink from risk. W. S. 


STORING AND BLANCHING ENDIVE. 
It is an easy matter, comparatively speaking, 
to secure good, full-hearted plants of Endive. 
Most people can manage this part of its cul¬ 
ture well enough, but fail to store and blanch 
it properly.. The blanching in itself i« a 
simple affair, and the difficulty generally 
arises from the want of good, sound plants at 
different times throughout the winter. Early 
in the season good plants are plentiful 
enough, as, with a little ordinary protection, 
they may be kept sound; but not so later on, 
and when the Endive is looked for. At these 
times Lettuce is getting short, but with 
plenty of good, sound plants of Endive to 
fall back upon, the want of Lettuce may be 
surmounted. Not that Endive can be ex¬ 
pected to take the place of good Lettuce, as 
it is a poor substitute at the best of times ; 
but one can help out the other, and, with 
other material which is generally available 
at such times, a good salad is obtainable. 

Frost and damp are the greatest enemies to 
Endive, and the larger the plants, the more 
likely are they to become injured. A mode¬ 
rately dry frost may not injure them, but 
although injury may not be seen for a time, 
decay gradually creeps over the edges of the 
leaves, and when this takes place, it is im¬ 
possible to stop its progress. The protection 
of the plants is the first consideration. Upon' 
a sudden frost occurring before the plants 
have been taken up and housed, or otherwise 
adequately protected, sooner than allow' them 
to remain uncovered, some light protection 
should he provided. Oil-canvas is a capital 
protective agent, this keeping out both frost 
and damp ; and although this may be looked 
upon as a luxury obtainable only by a few, 
yet it is cheap in the end. At this season 
of the year there is generally suitable storing 
space available in vineries and Peach-houses, 
these having only heat applied to keep out 
sharp frosts. These positions are better even 
than cold frames, as the air is drier; conse¬ 
quently. the plants are not likely to suffer 
from damp in any way. Frames, of course, 
are generally used for storing, but in a dr- 
and frost proof shed, which can be kept free 
from severe frosts, and where light can reach 
the plants, Endive will keep sound for a long 
time. If packed in moderately damp soil, no 
water will be needed. 

Lifting the plants while the foliage i« in a 
perfectly dry state is very essential. To faci¬ 
litate the removal, if the plants of tlie Round¬ 
leaved Batavian are of good size, each plant 
should be drawn carefully together and tied 
with a piece of matting. Lift carefully with 
a good ball, placing in shallow boxes and 
carrying on a hand-barrow, so that the soil is 
disturbed as little as possible. This may ap¬ 
pear a very unimportant. point,-but it often 
makes all the dirferenB«vbetjv^gi|^qgecFs and 


nji^jgccFs ai 


failure. By digging up and carrying roughly, 
the ball of soil becomes broken ; consequently 
the plants wither instead of remaining fresh 
and plump. When the plants are to be 
packed on the floors of vineries and Peaeli- 
houses, some fresh soil is needed for packing 
about, the balls. The plants must be ar¬ 
ranged far enough apart, so that when they 
are untied and opened out, there is space to 
allow of air to circulate. A watering will 
settle the soil about the roots, and will be 
sufficient to carry them through, unless the soil 
should become unduly dry. When the plants 
are to be stored in frames, they must be well 
elevated to the light, as otherwise damp is 
, apt to affect them. Deep frames should not 
be wholly filled up with soil, these being the 
better for being partially filled with some 
open material before placing in the soil. A 
layer of faggot-wood, if available, forms a 
good foundation, and lease as the evil of 
damp. If the soii is fairly moist, it should 
be, no water will be needed after planting. 
All that is necessary is to keep the frames 
freely ventilated, and also protected with 
mats or litter in the case of frost. The evil 
that must be guarded against is deep plant¬ 
ing, this very quickly causing the under- 
leaves to decay; consequently, the hearts of 
the plants soon collapse. Certainly it is 
natural for the leaves io rest on the soil, but 
in transplanting to frames, if they are slightly 
elevated, the less likely is damp to settle 
about them. For a very late supply, the 
smaller plants should be kept, in a frame by 
themselves, as these would grow and form a 
very useful late batch. The storing having 
been assured, it now remains to give a few 
details on blanching. With this part of the 
routine, cleanliness is of the greatest import¬ 
ance, and no method should he adopted other 
than will allow of this being assured. Where 
an early supply is needed, blanching may take 
place in the open air, the best course being to 
reserve a batch for the purpose; but to pre¬ 
vent any possible injury from early frosts, a 
temporary covering should bo erected, so that 
mats or oiled canvas covering should be. 
placed over them on the shortest notice. 
Tying the plants together with matting, and 
earthing up with soil, is a dirty method. 
Clean flower-pots are as good as anything, 
taking care to closely stop the hole to exclude 
light, perfect darkness being essential, a 
little soil being also drawn up about the rim 
to make this complete. Perfectly clean tiles 
or slates may also be used ; also clean boards. 
When boards are used and the plants are in 
rows, as they should be, long lengths should 
not be used, as when only one or two heads 
are all that arc necessary for daily use, the 
covering or uncovering is apt to injure or 
bruise the tips, when decay soon commences. 
Pieces that will cover from six to ten plants 
will suffice. To perfectly exclude light, a 
little dry soil may be drawn up along each 
side. Later on in the season. blanching is r. 
much slower process, and although, when in 
glass structures, the plants may be covered 
over with pots, and in the case of the broad¬ 
leaved Batavian be tied up, yet it is quicker 
to lift, the plants and place them in a warmer 
and perfectly dark structure. For instance, 
they may be placed in the Mushroom-house, 
or even a warm and dark cellar, when the 
blanching will take place rapidly. A dozen 
or two dozen plants, as the case may be, 
should be put in weekly. These should be 
lifted and packed in boxes, with a sufficiency 
of fairly moist soil to sustain growth without 
the necessity of applying water. 


NOTES AND PE PLIES. 

Bull-necked Onions —What is the cause of my 
Onions having bull necks? Is it the fault of my 
ground? The soil is rather sandy and light. I 
manure it every spring, some years using decayed 
stable-manure and others fowl-manure. AiUa Craig 
is the variety I grow. I have tried autumn and 
spring sowing. Still 50 per cent, come bull-nocked, 
and take a long time to dry off. Can you recom¬ 
mend anything in the shape of a manure for next 
year’s crop, or how to treat the soil by working? 
It is well dug every year, and lias had Onions on it 
three years running.—T. 0. IT. 

[The term “bull-neck,” which you apply to 
your Onions, has been very widely used this 
year by many Onion-growers, owing to the 
season having been so unfavourable for the 
production of true bulbs. Whan a season is 


ordinarily warm and dry, deep rooting in 
rich soil is all right, and fine bulbs result. 
When it is a cold, dripping season, it is all 
wrong, and the best average bulbs are those 
grown where the soil is less deeply dug and 
much firmer. The old Onion-growers—those 
of fifty to sixty years ago—always made their 
Onion-soil very hard bv treading and rolling 
before sowing the seed. But that was long 
before the newer fashion of raising Onion 
plants under glass and planting them out 
thinly on deep, rich soil in the spring, whs 
practised. Next year, try making one-half of 
your bed very firm before sowing, first fork¬ 
ing in manure very shallow, while the other 
half is treated as this year. Much would 
depend on the season.] 

What is an amateur gardener ?- (1) In the 
schedule of our local show it reads: “ Amateur* who 
do not keep a gardener shall be defined as those who 
either grow their own exhibits or superintend their 
culture, not habitually employing a skilled gardener.” 

1 am a gardener, living with a lady close by. but 
having a large garden attached to my house at my 
own home, and cultivating flowers and vegetables, I 
want to know if I would be excluded from showing 
against ordinary amateurs? Could 1 enter in the 
name of my son, who docs the most of the inanuul 
work for me? (2) Can 1. as an amateur gardener, 
show against my mistress in a class where the rule 
reads: "Amateur who does or does not keep a 
gardener”? Am I an amateur in the proper *ense 
of the word?- Amateur. 

[The simple fact that as a gardener you get 
a portion, at least, of your livelihood by 
nerving a lady, puts you out of court abso¬ 
lutely as an amateur, though, perhaps, in a 
small way you are none the less a professional 
gardener. That being so, under no circum¬ 
stances can you properly exhibit produce ns 
an amateur from even your own garden. It 
might be possible for you to do so ns a 
“cottager,” provided gardeners were not ex¬ 
cluded; or you might show from your own 
garden as a jobbing gardener, if there be any 
section for such. If you exhibited from your 
employer’s garden you would have to show 
as “gardener to Mrs. —in the gardeners’ 
classes. A true “amateur” is one who gels 
a living by some other vocation or profession, 
and cultivates a garden solely for pleasure. 
As to your son exhibiting from your garden, 
that is a matter for the committee, but as the 
garden is yours, and not his, no doubt they 
would object. Your son is, on your own 
showing, practically a garden labourer. You 
will thus see that your position restricts you 
very much. Our reply, so far, also applies 
to your second question, seeing that you and 
your employer are not at all in the same 
boat. We have set the rules or conditions 
governing your position clearly before you, 
and any attempt to set them aside may lead 
to great trouble.] 

Shaded kitchen garden (B. the 

trees which shade your kitchen garden are 
yours, why not have them heavily lopped next 
March? They would grow thicker heads, but 
not. such large ones. The small area or 
patch vou refer to as being so poor, could 
assuredly be improved by having it shallow 
trenched, taking out some of the larger stones, 
adding more soil of nnv description, and 
some manure. You could then plant on it 
Rhubarb-roots, Jerusalem Artichokes, herbs. 
Horseradish, or other less important vege* 
tables. Possibly, if preferred. Black Cur¬ 
rants and Raspberries might do very well. 
It is necessarily difficult to give exact, advice 
without seeing the surroundings. In any 
case, do not hesitate to tackle the ground 
thoroughly, as we have advised. 

Parsley for winter cutting.— A continued 
supply of this is most desirable. It is after 
the turn of the year when the scarcity begins. 
Frequently during the autumn there is a sur¬ 
plus. especially in seasons like this, when the 
growth of most green crops is rapid. This 
especially applies to Parsley that was sown 
or planted out in early summer. Where this 
is so, it would be wise to remove all the 
large, long growths close to the crown, allow¬ 
ing onlv the small voung ones to remain. 
It is this coarse foliage that, suffers from 
frost. By doing this, short young leafage 
that resists frost is promoted.— Dorset. 


Index to Volume XXVIII. The bindine covert 
(price Is. 6fl. cacti, pwt free. Is. Pd.) and Index <Sd., 
post free, SJd.j for Volume XXVIII. are now ready, 
and may be had of all newfuiKeots, or -of the Pub¬ 
lisher.- post free, 2*. for the two 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



September 28, 1007 


GAUD Em KG ILLUSTRATED. 


403 



PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

ROSES. 

ROSE EARL OF WARWICK. 

This splendid Hybrid Tea has now become 
one of the leading aorts in this very popular 
group and, wherever planted, one eontinu- 
“V ," ears , lt spoken of most favourably. 
Whether it is the exquisite colouring—a mix- 
ture of salmon with vermilion and orange 
shading, or the huge pctalled, globular bios- 


perhaps, not quite so fulL, and in the cool 
days of autumn when development is much 
slower, the size of disbudded blossoms is mar¬ 
vellous. The large petals are certainly in¬ 
herited from Mrs. W. J. Grant, and one may 
trace this Rose in the peculiar mottled ap¬ 
pearance of the wood and the beautiful foli¬ 
age. There is a certain resemblance in Earl 
of Warwick to such Roses as Dean Hole, 
Mrs. Edward Mawley, and Mme. Edmee 
Metz, but the quartette are perfectly dis¬ 
tinct. If Earl of Warwick is not 60 fre¬ 
quently met with in the show-box, I look upon 


Rose Earl of Warwick. From a photograph in Messrs. W. Paul and Son’s nursery at Waltham Cross, X. 


soms that attracts, it is difficult to say, but 
the Rose is, without doubt, a grand variety. 
When exhibited at. the conference on Gene¬ 
tics last season, the parentage of Earl of 
Warwick was given as from The Queen or 
Souvenir de S. A. Prince, crossed with Mrs. 
W. J. Grant., and it is not difficult to trace a 
resemblance to both parents. Who does not 
remember that grand old Rose, Souvenir 
d’un Ami, from which The Queen sported, and 
who would not wish for a new Rose to bear 
some of its many good characteristics? In 
Earl of Warwick we have blossoms much 
larger than in Souvenir^cTiTn ^mi. 


•ms much 

g[f 


it as superior to the two first named for gar¬ 
den decoration. Mme. Edmee Metz is ad¬ 
mittedly one of our very best garden Roses, 
but Earl of Warwick is very distinct from 
this excellent, sort. 

Where variety is desired without a too 
violent contrast of colour, one could not do 
better than plant the four sorts named in 
one large group, with, perhaps, Lady Helen 
Vincent added. If a few standards or half¬ 
standards are preferred to relieve the even¬ 
ness of the growth, either variety could be 
grown in this way, excepting that in some 
gardens neither Dean Hole nor Mrs. Edward 


Mawley will make very strong heads after 
the first year. 

The Rose under notice is a grand one for 
pot culture in a medium temperature. Al¬ 
though it is not advisable to give it strong 
heat, vet it is a Rose that requires a fair 
amount of warmth, excepting when the colour 
is seen, then a cool-house would he the best 
for it. Rosa. 

ROSES IN A LIGHT SOIL. 

Many amateurs have got so accustomed to 
be told Roses will not succeed on this 
and that and the other soil that they 
refrain from trying them on a light 
soil. No hard and fast rule can be 
laid down in this, as in many other 
things in a garden. Recently I have 
been surprised at the results obtained 
by growing Roses on a light soil ; 1 
prefer soil of this nature to that which 
is very stiff and clayey, seeing the latter 
gets so solid and close that root action 
is impeded. Especially does this hold 
good in the case of Teas, Hybrid Teas, 
and weak-growing Hybrid Perpetuals. 
I am convinced that heavy loam is much 
over-rated, not only for Roses, but for 
many things. During the past few 
weeks I have had occasion to visit 
many gardens in several places, and I 
have been pleased to notice the be¬ 
haviour of Roses and fruit-trees on 
light soils, especially in many gardens 
at Bournemouth. In the early days of 
this place most people had an impres¬ 
sion that nothing could be grown ex¬ 
cept that which needed a dry, sandy 
soil, but it is astonishing what has 
been done. In many gardens you may 
see fruit-trees doing well ; also Roses. 
In no place have I seen this more 
marked than in the gardens at Hume 
Towers, where, at the close of August, 
I saw ten large beds of dwarf Roses, 
consisting of Teas, Hybrid Teas, Hy¬ 
brid Perpetuals, and others. These 
had been planted three years. They 
were most vigorous. In these ten beds 
were many kinds, and, being grouped 
to colour, the effect was good. I was 
told a small portion of sandy, clayey 
loam from Redhill was mixed with the 
natural soil, and some manure added 
before the Roses were planted. In 
another position was a round bed that, 
had five to six dozen standard Hybrid 
Perpetuals in it. These, too, were in 
the most vigorous health. Near to 
these were growing on an arbour 
Dorothy Perkins and Aglaia in the 
most vigorous condition. These beds 
had been mulched with rotten manure. 
There had been, and still was, abun¬ 
dance of blooms, especially on the 
Teas and Hybrid Teas. The situation 
was a low one, and showed what this 
light soil will produce with attention, 
etc. Western. 

NOTES AND REPLIES. 
Roses and Clematis for arch (Whjto. 
Wings ).—You could very well utilise 
two plants on each side of your 4-feet- 
wide arch, but we think it would be 
best to plant one Rose and one Cle¬ 
matis each side, then you not only ob¬ 
tain a greater uniformity of growth, 
but neither the Clematis nor Roses are 
crowded. Carmine Pillar and Eleetra 
would do well and be very showy, but 
for a very short period. We think 
you would find Blush Rambler and 
Crimson Rambler a more effective 
combination, but if you preferred instead of 
the last-named a Rose of autumn-flowering 
qualities, plant Gruss an Teplitz. The fol¬ 
lowing are some good Clematis : — Jackmani, 
Henryi, Lady C. Neville, Star of India, Mrs. 
Hope, and Win. Kennett. 

Climbing Roses for rustic fence.-I am about 
to erect a rustic fence, about 35 yards long, for 
Rambler and Climbing Roses, and should much appre¬ 
ciate your advice as to kinds you can recommend? 
The fence will he 4 feet to 5 feet high, with a rustic 
arch, and pieces taken up occasionally as a relief. 
The soil is stilt marl, hut I cqn plant in good turf 
loam and manure. The situation races south, and is 
fully evposed to the sun, but. nicely protected from 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 











404 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


ScrmiDcn 28, 1007 


north nnd oast winds. Will you Kindly give the list 
In the order the Roses should be planted, and distance 
apart?—T rent. 

[Such a fence as you describe can be made 
a very attractive feature in the garden. We 
should advise you to have the whole length 
of the ground trenched, adding turfy loam 
and manure ns the work proceeds. Plant the 
following eighteen sorts 6 feet apart, and, as 
they are strong growers, it would be well to 
have some taller supports to each one. This 
is not absolutely necessary, but we think it 
would have a rfice effect, for then you could 
link them together when they have grown 
high enough. Between each pair of these 
fast growers you could plant a less vigorous 
sort, a list of which we append. Each of 
these could he restricted to any space which 
you had to spare, and they would provide 
you with blossoms of a beautiful finality the 
whole fiuminer and autumn. The strong 
growers we recommend are: Felioite Per 
petite, Francois Crnusse, Alberic Barbier, 
Mine. Berard, Crimson Humbler, Lady 
Waterlow, Carmine Pillar, Reve d’Or, 
Dorothy Perkins, Mme. Alfred Carriere, 
Flora, Mme. H. Leuilliot, Rubin, Amie 
Vibert, Hiawatha, Conrad F. Meyer, Blush 
Rambler, and Gruss an Teplitz. By this 
arrangement you get a summer-flowering and 
a perpetual sort alternately, and, Dorothy 
Perkins being near the centre, would go 
beautifully over an arch. The less vigorous 
sorts recommended are as follows :—Coin- 
tesse de Cayla, Frau Karl Druschki, La 
Tofica, Mme. Ravary, White Maman Cochet, 
Ulrich Brunner, Marie d’Orleans, Johanna 
Sebus, Alister Stella Gray, Maman Cochet, 
Hugh Dickson. Pharisacr. Gloire de Margot- 
ten, Caroline Testout, J. B. Clark, Mrs. John 
Laing, and Mme. Abel Chatenay. These 
will harmonise well if planted in the order 
given.] _ 

CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

HOUSING THE PLANTS. 
Intending exhibitors of Chrysanthemums 
should now be preparing for housing some of 
the plants. Much of the success gained is 
due to a knowledge as to when eacli variety- 
should lx? housed. Many exhibitors of 
Chrysanthemums are not successful through 
the fact f>f their blooms being either too early 
or too late. Cultivators Jiving in the south 
of England experience this very much, as 
they invariably lose many of their best flowers 
before the day appointed arrives. Where a 
home show only lias to be considered, the 
time for housing the plants is not of so much 
importance so long ns the plants are placed 
under cover before the flower-buds are in¬ 
jured bv early frosts. Where a cultivator 
proposes to exhibit on a certain date, hous¬ 
ing the plants is a most, important point. 
Borne kinds require a much longer time to 
develop the blooms after they reach a cer¬ 
tain stage in the growth of the flower-buds. 
Circumstances do not sometimes permit of 
the plants being housed exactly at the time 
wished. The locality, too, in which the 
grower resides lias to be considered. If it is 
a low, (lamp situation, the plants should be 
taken inside earlier, as in a low-lying district 
early frosts are more to be feared than where 
the position is high, and, consequently, drier. 
Once the colour of the flowers can be .seen, 
nothing is gained by allowing the plants to 
remain outside, because they will at that 
stage unfold their florets nearly as fast out- 
of-doors as they will inside. The tender, 
swelling flower-buds are easily destroyed by 
frosts. Therefore, buds which are more de¬ 
velop'd are certain to be crippled if allowed 
to remain outside after the colour can be 
seen. When such an accident, as this occurs, 
the flowers produced are always crippled, and 
the centre of each bud is often blackened, 
which prevents the developing of tin* florets 
in a regular manner. Growers who have 
lived in a district for some time know when 
to expect these early frosts. 

If a show is to take place from the 10th to 
the 20th of November, all plants should be 
housed by the 8th of October, and so on in 
proportion to the dates fixed. No plants are 
safe outside without protection after the time 
named. Yurietieji-t^jat did not <«*t their buds 

Digitized by (jOOglC 


so early as was desired and all late-flowering 
kinds should be removed inside first. 

Before housing, the plants should be tho¬ 
roughly examined for mildew, which gener¬ 
ally infests the under-sides of the leaves in 
autumn, and is more difficult to eradicate 
than when on the upper surface. The best 
remedy is to lay the plants on their sides 
and syringe them. Remove all dead leaves 
and lateral growths from the plants, and wash 
the pots clean, so that no more moisture need 
be given than is absolutely necessary. Any 
plants which show signs of the drninage being 
blocked should be seen to before they are 
taken inside. No position suits Chrysanthe¬ 
mums better than vineries or Peach-houses 
after the fruit has been gathered. The 
leaves in the early houses will be failing about 
the time the Chrysanthemums are housed, 
thus admitting more light to the plants. A 
span-roofed greenhouse is a capital place for 
them, but it is seldom that such a house can 
be devoted to the purpose. Whatever the 
house is that the plants are to occupy it 
should be thoroughly well fumigated if there 
are any other plants which have to be placed 
in there along with the Chrysanthemums. 
This is a wise preventive against green-fly, 
which attacks the buds and partly expanded 
flowers, and, if allowed to remain un¬ 
molested, proves a serious trouble later on 
when the florets are expanding. Anything 
done now at this stage to prevent the spread 
of this pest is a distinct gain. The glass 
should be thoroughly washed, so that all the 
light possible may fall upon the plants dur¬ 
ing the dull days which are sure to follow 
this date before the blooms are thoroughly 
developed. An absence of light to the plants 
affects the colours of each kind to some ex¬ 
tent; the brighter eacli one is, eo much bet¬ 
ter will be the chances of success in close 
competition. 

The manner of arranging the plants must 
depend upon circumstances and personal 
taste of the cultivator. Nowhere are Chrys¬ 
anthemums more effective than in a large 
conservatory. where Palms are the chief fea¬ 
ture. Plants of Japanese varieties of tall 
habit of growth standing among the green 
foliage; of Palms are very effective. 

Where vineries. Peach-houses, or a green¬ 
house are devoted to them, a Jong, sloping 
bank arrangement is the best, both for see¬ 
ing and attending to the plants. An arrange¬ 
ment of this sort admits of the colours being 
arranged in masses, or blocks of one section 
can be placed together just as the cultivator 
fancies, but if exhibiting is the chief point to 
consider, it is wise to place the Japanese 
varieties in a house by themselves, so that 
more fire-heat can be given to them during 
the time the blooms arc developing. This sec¬ 
tion will stand more fire-heat than the in¬ 
curved varieties, as too much heat is liable 
to make the florets of the latter soft and 
flabby, and induce them to reflex rather than 
incurve. A little fire-heat, to which can be 
added a free circulation of air, assists the 
flowers of the Japanese section in developing, 
the colours are brighter, and the florets come 
out cleaner and more regularly than they do 
where no fire-heat is employed at all. When 
all sections are arranged together, this addi¬ 
tional heat cannot be given so freely without 
detriment to others which do not require extra 
warmth. In all cases place the plants .as near 
the glass as possible, so as to have the bene¬ 
fit of all available light ; the colours of each 
are by this means brought out more in their 
true character than they can be where the 
light is diffused. The flower stems also do 
not become drawn up weakly, as they do 
when the plants are far from the glass. The 
strength of the flower-stein is a good indica¬ 
tion of what is to follow in the shape of large 
blooms. When first housed as much room 
should he given to the plants as is consistent 
with the space at disposal; afterwards, when 
all are housed, the planks may stand close to¬ 
gether. When arranged in a solid bank, the 
bottom leaves of the inside plants quickly 
turn yellow and fall, but not much harm can 
happen to the plants in consequence, because 
by the time that takes place the bottom 
leaves of the plants will have performed their 
work. The back walls of any cool-houses 
which are bare in the winter may be utilised 


by training some of the tallest plants upon 
them. 

Watering the plants should be attended to 
very carefully when in their new quarters. 
It is seldom that the plants will need it more 
than once a day, and not always that. Any 
water required should be given'in the morn¬ 
ing, so that the surplus moisture resulting 
from the application of water to the roots 
may have time to dry up before night comes, 
when the house must be kept closer than it is 
in the daytime. In damp or foggy weather 
less air may be admitted, and the hot-water 
pipes should be warmed during the day, when 
air can be freely admitted, otherwise, when 
the outside temperature and weather admit, 
air should be freely given to the plants night 
and day. If mildew shows signs of spreading 
on the surface of the leaves, dust with sul¬ 
phur at once. 


NOTES AND IMPLIES. 

Chrysanthemum Source d’Or.— Twenty 
years ago 1 grew this (I do now), and I re¬ 
member that, it was prized very much in those 
days as a decorative sort, and for the value of 
its colour—an old gold. It carries its foliage 
well, right on to blooming time, and has the 
advantage of being a mid-season bloomer, 
and can even be had late. A friend of mine 
who grows it for cutting, plants many out in 
the open ground, and then, towards the end 
of September, lifts them, and takes them 
under gla6s to finish, splitting up the clumps 
in spring, and setting them out in a well- 
manured border. There are several varieties 
similar in colour, but they do not quite come 
up to this old sort; and though it can never 
be regarded with any degree of pride by those 
who grow mainly for size, I think its colour* 
and habit are such as to make it most useful 
to those who look at the value of a plant from 
other standpoints than mere size of blossoms. 
—W OODBA8TWICK. 

New early-flowering: Chrysanthemums. 

—The flowering sea*son of the early Chrysan¬ 
themums may now be said to have com¬ 
menced, and there are indications that these 
plants are being cultivated more extensively 
than ever. For some weeks past market- 
growers have been sending large consignments 
of really first-class Chrysanthemums to 
market, and, owing to the mildness of the 
climate at this season, they have had to com¬ 
pete with the hardy flowers, of which there 
are still so many. Only the brightest and 
best coloured Chrysanthemums have been 
really appreciated. For this reason raisers 
of new early-flowering Chrysanthemums will 
have to persevere in the direction of intro¬ 
ducing really first-rate sorts. At the first 
meeting this season of the floral committee 
of the National Chrysanthemum Society, on 
Monday, ICth inst., there were a few good 
new Japanese kinds set up for adjudication, 
and each of a bright and pleasing colour. 
Wells’ Scarlet, the beautiful bright chestnut- 
crimson Japanese, well merited the first-class 
certificate then awarded to it. A similar 
award was made to J. J. Hart and Carme¬ 
lite, two excellent yellow Japanese kinds. 
The former is a useful market sort, and does 
well when disbudded, and the latter is a 
capital border plant, of fine, dwarf, branch¬ 
ing habit. These plants attain a height of 
about 2 feet.—C. A. H. 

Early-flowering Chrysanthemum Im¬ 
proved Mass6.— Although this fine early- 
flowering Japanese Chrysanthemum has been 
in cultivation for several years, its excellent 
quality is known only to a few. We think it 
was a great mistake to give the plant the 
name it now bears. The variety under 
notice, one of the very best, of the early- 
flowering Japanese Chrysanthemums, is a 
plant of the easiest possible culture, and 
bears very fine, handsome blooms, each 
borne on a long, erect footstalk. This result 
is obtained without any disbudding. The 
plant is just now in very fine form, and is 
ri'oresented by a splendid mass of rosy-mauve 
blossoms of high quality. The plant attains 
a height of about 2£ feet, and possesses a 
capital constitution. For late September 
work the plant is valuable, and as a market 
variety for that period should be a very pay- 


° 


ILLINOIS A 


URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


September 2S, 1007 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


405 



INDOOR PLANTS. 

THE CHIMNEY BELLFLOWER (CAM¬ 
PANULA PYRAMID AL1S). 

This handsome species stands out still as 
one of the very finest of its race in every 
respect, being on easy plant to grow, a most 
prolific flowerer, and a very showy one when 
in bloom, lasting also for a length of time 
in that state when well managed. Asa cool 
greenhouse or conservatory plant, its beau- 
lies are brought out in their best character, 
as ma}' be seen from our illustration, taken in 
the Botanic Gardens at Glasrievin during the 
third week in August of this year, and as 


the sced-pode aro not allowed to swell. 
There are various modes of 

Culture that can be adopted. If plants 
of large size be wanted, then it is advisable 
to sow the seed in August in a cold frame, 
and winter the plants afterwards in 3-inch 
pots, these being potted about the following 
March into one or two sizes larger, according 
to their vigour. Early in the summer another 
shift should be given* them, and early in Sep¬ 
tember the final or flowering shift, which, in 
the case of strong plants, will be 10-inch or 
12-inch pots. These sizes are quite large 
enough for wintering the plants in in cold 
frames; larger would be cumbrous. These 


should not bo given, otherwise the plants 
will not have time to re-establish themselves 
before winter. It is better to give the final 
6 hift in the autumn, but if room for storing 
in cold-frames be limited, then the final shift 
may be given when the plants are stood out¬ 
side in the spring. From the time of seed¬ 
raising onwards, avoid overcrowding, prick¬ 
ing the seedlings off for the first time, as in 
the case of Celery, quite early and into shal¬ 
low boxes. Firm potting is very essential, 
it being productive of a sturdier and more 
compact, growth. The chief factor as regards 
soil is good loain, road-scrapings being a good 
addition thereto in lieu of sand. A free use 
of manure in the soil is not advisable, a small 
amount of well-decomposed leaf-mould or of 
spent Mushroom manure w r oukl be ample. 
Later on, when the spikes are advancing, 
an occasional application of artificial stimu¬ 
lant or of liquid farmyard manure will greatly 
benefit the plants. In no case, however, 
should excessive watering be indulged in; it 
must rather be guarded against, as pre¬ 
judicial to the plants, more particularly when 
coming into flower. If this point in their 
culture be not attended to, the plants will 
be denuded of leaves at the base, thus looking 
lean and meagre. The best method of sup¬ 
port, which can scarcely be dispensed with, 
is slender Bamboo sticks painted green. By 
the use of these in a moderate manner, there 
will be nothing unsightly. It will be well, 
however, to do the staking at twice ; first as 
supports in a temporary manner during 
growth, otherwise the shoots, bv reason of 
their very rapid development, will split away 
at the base, and, secondly, just prior to the 
first flowers opening. 

Having secured a specially good strain of 
seedlings by selection, it is well to stand 
aside the best of these for seeding, only al¬ 
lowing the finer flowers to produce seed. If 
it is desirable to propagate particular varie¬ 
ties by themselves, it can easily be accom¬ 
plished by the roots, as in the case of Sea- 
kale by sets. This mode of increase should 
be attended to as soon as the plants go out 
of flower, making the sets as in the case of 
Seakale, they being smaller, of course. These 
should be covered with silver sand for u few 
days to stop any bleeding, and then they can 
be pricked off into boxes and put into cold 
frames. 


The Chimney Bellflower (Campanula pyramid alis) at the Botanic Gardens, Glasnevin. 


such it can be recommended for extended 
cultivation even in these days, when other 
attractions are much more numerous than of 
yore. For quite cool houses of any aspect 
the Chimney Bellflower can be strongly re¬ 
commended as a most useful flowering plant, 
coming into bloom about the middle of July, 
and lasting until the end of September. We 
have had the same plants good for this period 
by continuously picking off the seed-pods. 
Unless this is followed up, the later flowers 
will not develop, as all strength seems 
directed towards the swelling of the seed- 
vessels. At the base of the stalk of each 
flower, others in the embryo stage may be 
noted, and these will be repeatedly repro¬ 
duced until the plant is finally exhausted if 

Digitized by G<X>gle 


I plants will be fit for standing out-of-doors 
by the middle of March w ith a little shelter, it 
being a good plan to plunge them straight 
away in cinder-ashes up to the rims. This, 
in fact, is the best way to winter them in 
the frames, so as to protect the pots from 
breakage by frost. Another plan is to sow in 
February in a gentle warmth, gradually har¬ 
dening off, until cold-frame treatment will 
suffice when well established after pricking 
off. These plants should not be stood out- 
of-doors fully exposed until established in 
4 ^-inch pots, and then it will be better to 
plunge them, so as to avoid any undue 
amount of watering. These plants, if well 
cared for, will take two shifts before the fol¬ 
lowing winter. In any case, a late shift. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 
Asparagus Sprengeri.— Kindly tell me the 
minimum temperature at which Asparagus Sprengeri, 
A. capensis, and Smilax can he successfully grown? 
Can any of the three be safely left during the winter 
in a glasshouse, facing south, with very thick walls, 
but with no artificial heat?—C anterbury. 

[Given a mild winter, the plants named may 
pass through that season in a fairly satisfac¬ 
tory manner under the conditions named, 
but to winter them with confidence they need 
what is usually regarded as a greenhouse 
temperature—that is to say, they must be 
kept in a structure with a minimum of 
45 degs., and a maximum of 60 clegs., or 
thereabouts.] 

Stove flowering plants for succession.-1 

shall feel obliged if you could give me names of 
stove flowering plants for a succession throughout 
the year? I have a new house, 16 feet by 9 feet, 
with 3-spun roof, height 11 feet. As 1 have to heat 
other houses from same boiler, the heat is not very 
plentiful for stove, hence the very tender varieties, 
I am afraid, would not succeed.—I nquirer. 

[It is a difficult matter to specify the time 
at which any particular plant may be had in 
bloom, but the usual flowering period of 
those given below covers the entire year. For 
late autumn and early winter we have Aphe- 
landras, Centropogon Lucvanus, Serico- 
graphis Ghiesbreghti, Jaoobinia ehrysoste- 
phana, Euphorbia jacquinioeflora, Poinsettia 
pulcherrima, Ruellia macrantha, Eranthe- 
mum nervosum (pulchellum), Deedalaeanthus 
macrophyllus, Epiphyllums of sorts. For 
spring and summer: Anthurium Scherzeri- 
anum and varieties, with Anthurium Andre- 
anum, Amaryllis (Hippeastrums) of sorts, 
Aphelandras, Begonias of sorts, Clerodendron 
fallax, Clerodendron fragrans flore-pleno 
Crossnndra undulrefolia, Cvrtodeira (Episciaj 
fulgida, Eucharis amazonica, Franciscea 
calyeimi, Gardenia florida, Hoya bella, Hoya 
carnosa, Jasminum gracillimum, Scutellaria 
Moeeiniana, Rondeletia speeiosa, Thyraa- 
canthus rutilans, Viqca alba, Vinca rosea. 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 











40G 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Sti'TEJinfiR 28, ID07 


Late summer and early autumn : ASsehynan- 
thus Lobbianus, Ixoras of sorts, Justicia 
carnea and Justicia specit>sa, Plumbago coc- 
cinea and Plumbago rosea, Pentas carnea, 
and different Gesneras. Of climbers may be 
named : Allamatida grandifiora, Aristolochia 
elegans, Bougainvillea Snnderinna, Cleroden- 
dron Balfouri, Dipladenia boliviensis, Dipla- 
denia Brearleyana, and Stephanotis flori- 
bunda.] 

Keeping Pelargoniums - I have some Pelar¬ 
gonium plants I should like to keep through the 
winter. I have been told this can he done in a cool, 
dry cellar. Will you please tell me if it is possible 
with only a frame or warm window to start them 
growing again next spring? Should they be planted 
in pots or boxes to keep, or taken out of the earth?— 

M. K. 

[Pelargoniums may be kept through the 
winter in a dwelling house, especially if there 
is a warm window available, or they may be 
wintered in a cool, dry cellar with a certain 
amount of success. A great help is to give 
them as much daylight as possible, lienee, 
even if in a cellar, it is a considerable ad¬ 
vantage to stand them outside occasionally 
during mild weather. You do not say 
whether the plants concerning which you in¬ 
quire are established in pots or planted in 
the open ground. If in pots, the better way 
is to allow them to remain therein, but if in 
the ground the plants must be lifted before 
they are injured by the autumnal frosts. A 
fine day, when the leaves are dry. should bo 
chosen for this, the plants being laid out in 
a shed or some available place. Then most 
of the leaves may be cut off, and any 
straggling shoots shortened back, the very 
long roots being also served in the same way. 
In cutting off the leaves, do not separate 
them too closely to the main stem, otherwise 
the bark may l>e possibly injured, and thus 
form a likely spot for decay to set in. Boxes 
about 6 inches deep are very suitable for the 
reception of these Pelargoniums, which 
should be put in moderately thick, but not 
overcrowded. The soil should be fairly fine 
and dry, and worked well in among the roots. 
After a few days the remaining leaves will 
turn yellow and drop, while the stalks of the 
leaves that have been cut off will also fall. 
During the winter but little water will be 
needed, and, as above mentioned, the more 
air and light they can have so much the 
better.] 

Growing Begonias. —Would you kindly give me 
some hints on Begonia culture—to get pood, clean, 
well-flowered plants tor showing in September? Is 
much fire-heat needed, and when should they be 
started, and when repotted?—C elosia. 

[In a general way, Tuberous-rooted Be¬ 
gonias require the temperature of an ordi¬ 
nary greenhouse—that is to say, when they 
are dormant during the winter the thermo¬ 
meter may range from 40 degs. to 55 degs. 
At that time the soil in the pots may be kept 
quite dry, or if the tubers are taken out, as 
is sometimes done, and laid thickly together 
into boxes of soil, care must be taken that 
they are quite free from drip. By March 
the soil may be occasionally damped, and 
signs will soon be seen of the young shoots 
pushing from the centre of the tuber. When 
this happens the tubers should be potted 
singly, using a compost made up of equal 
parts of loam and leaf-mould, with a liberal 
dash of sand. They will then just need the 
temperature of an ordinary greenhouse, in 
which, n-s a rule, fire-heat, is dispensed with 
from about May tiLI October. The time for 
repotting will, of course, depend upon the 
condition of the plants, as no particular rate 
of progress can he assured. Pots 4 incites in 
diameter are very suitable for the first pot¬ 
ting, and care must be taken that the roots 
are not allowed to get pot-bound before the 
plants are shifted. For this shift into the 
flowering size the pots may be G inches, 
7 inches, or, in special cases, 8 inches in 
diameter. As the plants are required to be 
at their best in September, they must not be 
allowed to seed, and the vigour of the plants 
must be kept up by occasional doses of liquid- 
man u re.] 

Agapanthus for tub — Mow many plants should 
be placed together to till large plant tub? What 
would be about the height they would reach the 
first year of planting?— Am atki u. 

[The term, “large tub,” is rather vague, 
and we could answer the question in a more 
satisfactory manner if its diameter and 
depth were given. The size of the plants 


available is, of course, also an important 
item. Given a tub 14 inches to 16 inches in 
diameter, three good strong plants, even if 
they have but single crowns, may he 
arranged trinngular fashion towards the 
centre of the tub, and will soon attain an 
effective size. The height obtained the first 
season will, of course, depend upon the vigour 
of the plants, but in a general way it may be 
given at about 18 inches from the surface of 
the soil. This refers to leafage, for, of 
course, if the plants flower they will push up 
a stem From 2 feet to 4 feet high. In putting 
the plants into the tub, it should he borne in 
mind that the less they are afterwards dis¬ 
turbed at the roots so much the better. For 
this reason, the tub, or tubs, must be effectu¬ 
ally drained, and the soil employed of a last¬ 
ing nature. Two parts of good turfy loam 
to one part made up of leaf-mould and sand, 
will form a suitable compost. If the loam 
is of a very heavy nature, an additional 
amount of leaf-mould and sand will be help¬ 
ful. As the pots get full of roots, a little 
weak manure and soot-water, mixed, will, if 
applied about once a fortnight, be of great 
assistance to the plants.] 

Lifting standard Fuchsias.—I have some large 
standard Fuchsias, some of them G feet high. They 
ure nil in pots sunk in the garden. I would he glad 
to know when they are taken up, if they ought to he 
repotted or left until the spring? If the latter, in 
what month should it be done, or need they he re¬ 
potted at all?—S. S. 

[When the Fuchsias are lifted in the autumn 
they must not be repotted, and throughout 
the winter the soil should be kept moderately 
dry. Then, early in March, the plants must 
he gone over, and any pruning that is neces¬ 
sary in the way of shortening hack straggling 
shoots may then be done. After this, if the 
roots are kept somewhat moistcr, and the 
plants occasionally syringed, young shoots 
will then be freely pushed out. When these 
shoots are about A- inch long is the best time 
to repot the plants, a suitable compost being 
one-half or two-thirds of turfy loam, accord¬ 
ing to its consistency, the remaining portion 
being made up of leaf-mould and sand. The 
roots will quickly take possession of the new 
soil, and, as a result, the tops will grow 
freely. In the course of the season, as the 
pots get full of roots, an occasional dose of 
liquid-manure will be very helpful, as the 
strain of flowering is at that time consider¬ 
able. With regard to the annual repotting 
of these large Fuchsias, it must he borne in 
mind that during a season’s blooming the 
soil becomes exhausted, and, though the 
vigour may he kept up by stimulating 
manures, the better way, generally speaking, 
will be to repot them each spring.] 

Campanula isophylla alba — I have several 
white and blue hunting Campanulas in jots in small 
greenhouse, indicated, except to keep out frost. 
They seem overcrowded, and are only now showing 
bloom (of course, this has been a very had season). 
How eun I host improve them—by dividing or by 
striking cuttings? When should it he done? I see 
lovely plants, cascades of bloom, in some of the cot¬ 
tage windows. The greenhouse is a very sunny one, 
but I can stand them on the edge of the stage facing 
north. I should like to have one or more fine plants 
by next September.—C elosia. 

[As the season is now so far advanced, you 
can do nothing towards stimulating your 
Campanulas until another year. It is more 
than probable that they are suffering from 
starvation, set up bv the overcrowded state 
of the pots, and. this being so, they should, 
about the end of February or early in March, 
be turned out of the pots and divided. Each 
plant should, when divided, yield three or 
four. The soil used may consist of loam, 
leaf-mould, and sand. After potting, the ob¬ 
ject should he to encourage good free growth, 
but no stimulants will be required till the 
pots are well furnished with roots. When 
this stage is reached, a dose about once a 
fortnight of weak liquid-manure and soot- 
water, mixed, or anv of the concentrated 
manures now so popular, will prove of great 
assistance.] 

Geranium cuttings (Fritz ).—A good cut¬ 
ting should he not less than 4 inches in 
length, and of moderately firm growth. The 
tops of plants that have flowered, will, when 
not too sappy, make capital cuttings if cut off 
just below a leaf joint—that is. where the 
leaf stalk joins the main stem. In a cutting 
of 4 inches or 5 inches in length, it may be 
necessary to remove two of the lower leaves, 


Digitized by 


Google 


and these may be broken or cut away close to 
the main stem. Cut the stem clean across 
immediately below the joint, and it is then 
ready for inserting in sandy soil. If the 
cuttings are not made to a joint, they fre¬ 
quently turn black and decay. The pots 
must he well drained for the cuttings, and 
the soil made very sandy and pressed firmly 
about the cuttings. Six cuttings in a 5-inch 
pot are a good number. When the cuttings 
are inserted, the soil should he rather dry, 
and no water lie given for three days. It is 
important that the cutting pots be stood in 
an airy place. An open stage in a green¬ 
house will do, or placed in an open place in 
full sun out-of-doors. On no account must 
the cuttings be placed in a close, moist frame 
or in a heated greenhouse, or they may rot 
off wholesale. After three days give a good 
watering, and give no more for a week or 
ten days. At the end of that time the cut¬ 
tings should be rooted, or nearly so. It is 
quite possible the cuttings will flag at first, 
hut do not let this frighten you into giving 
them water. In future, sign each question 
separately.—E. J. 

Climber for lean to house in a town — I have 
a cold lean-to house in a town garden, of which 1 
enclose ai plan, and should be glad to know of the best 
climber or creeper to grow in order to clothe the 
back wall, and the best position to plant it. in—Hose 
preferred? Have tried u yellow climbing Hose, but it 
failed. The house gets all the morning sun and up 
to about mid-day, but after that only the front shelf 
gets it, the high wall shutting off the afternoon sun. 
Akso please state best time to plant and soil?— 
Climber. 

[Under the prevailing conditions, we do not 
think that you wilL succeed with any climb¬ 
ing Rose, and should advise a plant of the 
blue-flowered Passion-flower (Passiflora 
eocrulea), or its white-flowered variety, Con¬ 
stance Elliott. Either of those should grow 
well and flower in a satisfactory manner. 
The best place for planting it. nppears, to us, 
to be in the middle of the back wall, so that 
the branches can be trained on either side. 
For its reception a hole should he taken out 
2 feet across and 3 feet deep. Then, in the 
bottom of the hole, put broken pots and 
brick rubble to the depth of a foot for drain¬ 
age, and over that place a layer of turves, 
with the Gross side downwards. The hole 
should then he filled with prepared soil—say, 
two parts fibrous loam, one part leaf-mould, 
and a good sprinkling of sand. This must be 
pressed down moderately firm, and the Pas¬ 
sion-flower planted therein. The best time to 
plant is in the spring, but the place may he 
prepared at any time during the winter. It 
is very necessary that the plant selected be a 
young, well-rooted, and vigorous one.] 
Echeverias during the winter. -Some¬ 
times those who grow Echeverias winter them 
in their greenhouse, only to find out before 
very long that they are becoming weak and 
“flabby.’ This is not in the least surpris¬ 
ing, for Echeverias do not require heat so 
much as shelter from frost and damp. It is, 
therefore, a good plan to treat them on 
hardier lines, and for some years I found out 
that if a number were boxed (shallow boxes 
only needed), and kept in a cold-frame I have 
under a wall on the south side of tho garden, 
only throwing mats on the frame on frosty 
nights, this was all they required. I pull off 
all the small ones in the autumn, and plant 
these in a box, and, beyond watering them 
once, they receive no more water until 
spring, and, being thus kept dry, few are lost. 
—TOWN3MAN. 

Bulbs in hanging baskets.— Baskets of 
flowering plants that have ceased to be of 
service may be turned to good account, if they 
are emptied of the old soil, refilled, and 
planted with bulbs. This is better than allow¬ 
ing them to remain idle in the winter and 
spring. If possible, they should have a coat¬ 
ing of fresh green Moss l»efore the soil is 
placed therein, and the latter firmly pressed. 
After being watered and allowed to settle, 
bulbs, such as Snowdrops, Grape Hyacinths, 
Crocuses, Beilins, like sibiricn, and Cliiono- 
doxas, should be studded all round; then 
the baskets ought to be stood in a cool, dark 
place, away from frost, for several weeks be¬ 
fore they are j^iit into heat. Such baskets 
are very pretty, and the display is over in 
time to refill them with summer tenonte.— 
Townsman. Origin 31 fi :m 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


September 28, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


40' 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 

FINE FOLIAGED PLANTS IN AN 
IRISH GARDEN. 

In the warmer portions of these islands the 
landscape effect can be rendered charming by 
the employment of the nobler fine-foliaged 


ture, and the great leaves, reflected on the 
still surface of a lake, are very beautiful. 
The young foliage is sometimes injured by 
the late spring frosts, but if the old leaves 
are cut when they wither, and are allowed to 
lie on and cover the crowns, the immature 
foliage is rarely damaged. On the right of 
the illustration is a towering clump of Cordy- 
line australis, usually known as Dracaena 


headed specimen, on a stem some 10 feet in 
height, will often carry a dozen flower-spikes, 
which, when in full bloom, have a remarkably 
handsome appearance. Two other species of 
this family are also well worthy of culture, 
these being C. Banksi, of dwarfer growth 
than C. australis, with leaves 4 inches in 
width, which arch gracefully, and flower- 
spikes less densely branched. There is a 



View in the gardens at Narrow Water Castle, Co Down, Ireland. 


plants, which are natives of semi-tropical 
lands, as will be seen from the accompanying 
illustration. In the centre of the picture 
may be observed a large group of the South 
American Gunnera raanicata, without doubt 
the noblest of our fine-foliaged plants. Its 
giant leaves often measure 10 feet across, ami 
such a colony as this, over 30 feet in dia* 
meter, is an impressive object. It is gener¬ 
ally seen at its best when growing by the 
water-side, as its roots enjoj^ abundant mois- 

Digitized by Google 


j australis, which Is grown in quantity in the 
[south of England and Ireland. Its sword¬ 
like leaves give it a distinct appearance, and 
it presents a particularly charming picture 
in the summer, when carrying its great, 
branching heads of inflorescence. These, 
which are composed of countless small white 
flowers, are often 3 feet in length and 2 feet 
through, and, being sweetly perfumed, are 
haunted throughout the sunny hours by bees 
and insects innumerable. A large, many- 


| variety, C. B. erytbroracliis, with red mid¬ 
ribs to the leaves. C. indivisa is a splendid 
1 foliage plant, with grey-green leaves 5 inches 
| in width, having a ruddy midrib, and often 
I reaching a length of 5 feet. This has only 
once flowered in this country, having bloomed 
1 in the Isles of Scilly about twenty years ago, 
but its value lies in its foliage, and not in its 
somewhat unattractive inflorescence. 

S. W. Fitzherbert. 







403 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


September 28 , 190 ? 


PLANTING DAFFODILS. 

The drier the ground when bulbs are planted 
the better. They should be in their place 
before tnc first soaking rain of autumn 
comes ; a w et bed is very bad for them be¬ 
fore they begin to grow. Those who are 
obliged to plant them when the soil is wet 
had better take round a barrowful of dry 6oil 
and surround the bulbs with it in planting. 
Anything is better than laying bulbs in mud ; 
otherwise I am doubtful about the good of 
putting coarse sand round Daffodils, ns often 
recommended ; it is very good for many kinds 
of bulbs, but 1 am inclined to think that 
Home of the genus Narcissus dislike it. Daf¬ 
fodils should he ready to grow when the soil 
becomes wet and while it is still warm. They 
require to make good long roots during Sep¬ 
tember and October, and then the less growth 
they make till February the better for them. 
Few people will take the trouble to make 
any special difference in the soil where they 
are planting them, and it is hardly worth 
while to do so. Daffodils are said to like 
loam, and so they do. Soil which contains a 
large proportion of clay, but. readily breaks 
up small when dug, is better for them than 
peat, or that which contains much vegetable 
mould; but it is less troublesome and as 
likely to lead to success to trust? to the good¬ 
ness of the ordinary soil of the garden. Nar¬ 
cissus poeticus and its hybrids like a stronger 
soil than the Trumpet Daffodils, and of these 
the white-flowered Trumpets are more im¬ 
patient of stagnant wet than the others ; but 
it is a mistake to think that the tribe do beRt 
in very rich soil, and to plant them in 
manured soil often causes them to die out in 
two or three years. What I say about soil 
does not refer to bulbs grown in pots which 
are for one season’s flowering ; for them it 
cannot well be too rich. 

If the soil of the border in which the bulbs 
are planted is very fertile, the flowers will 
generally be fine for the first, season ; after 
that (here is a tendency to multiply too 
rapidly ; the main bulb breaks up into slender 
divisions which crowd one another too much 
for healthy development, and often many bul¬ 
bils in addition are formed round the base of 
the old bulb, the competition for food in one 
spot of soil becomes too great, and the whole 
mass soon dies of starvation. In other cases, 
especially where the soil holds wet, the foun¬ 
dations are laid of a very destructive disease, 
called basal-rot, in which the bulb, after 
lingering for one or two seasons, gradually 
dies of a kind of dropsy. Where a tendency 
to rapid multiplication prevails, I advise gar¬ 
deners to try dee]) planting say, 8 inches 
instead of the regulation 4 inches—hut those 
who wish to obtain a large stock of any choice 
kind, and prefer shallow planting, should dig 
up the bulbs early in every summer, and after 
allowing them to dry thoroughly, separate 
and replant them, giving growing room to 
each. It is not to be expected that those who 
have a large mixed garden can replant their 
whole stock of Daffodils every season, but for 
delicate and choice kinds this treatment will 
be found most successful, especially in rich 
and retentive soils. I do not believe that 
any soil which is naturally good for Daffodils 
ever becomes bulb-sick—that is to say, con¬ 
ducive to disease or decay from being long 
under the same crop. We find that these 
plants grow thickly and flower luxuriantly 
for many years together in the same spot in 
orchards and meadows, and I have often 
seen flourishing clumps in flower borders 
which have grown there beyond the recollec¬ 
tion of the owner. In these cases their in¬ 
crease is slow. Where they multiply fast, 
the effects of neglect or of a wet and cold 
summer will often last for two or three sea¬ 
sons. in spite of transplanting, and when re¬ 
planted bulbs continue to look unhealthy, the 
soil is often blamed without cause. 

One more bint, and 1 have done. When a 
spot is dug for planting Daffodils, the soil 
beneath them should not be left too loose, 
but pressed together, so as to be moderately 
firm, otherwise the roots cannot get a steady 
hold, and the flowering is less strong. Thu 
soil may be filled in above as lightly as you 
please, and should never be allowed to become 
caked. D. 

Digitized by 



SWEET PEAS. 


We give below a list issued by the National 
Sweet Pea Society of too much alike varieties 
of Sweet Peas, as also a list of the best in 
the various colours. We are very glad that 
this has been done, as there are so many 
sorts too near alike, and growers are very 
often deceived when they buy two varieties 
under different names only to find that when 
they come into bloom they are identical or 
so closely resemble each other that both 
are not wanted. 

The following varieties are too much alike, 
and the first name in each bracketed set 
should, in future, stand for the rest : - 


/ Etta Dyke 

( While Spencer 
/ Queen Alexandra 
\ Scarlet Gem 
/Her Majesty 
1 Splendour 
l Lord Rosebery 
\ Cyril Breadmore 

fMrs. Collier 
I Mrs. Felton 
. Dora Cowper 
I Ceres 

y Yellow Dorothy Eckford 

/ Captain of the Blues 
[ Bolton’s Blue 
[Indy Grisel Hamilton 
J’Countess of Radnor 
l New Countess 
V Princess May 
/ Duke of Sutherland 
\ Monarch 
f Lottie Enkford 
- Maid of Honour 
[ivy Miller 
/ Flora Norton 
\ Miss Phil brick 
* Dobhie’s Princess Victor! 
of this name, which is cerise 


/' Black Knight 
- Stanley 
l, Boreatton 

f John Ingnian 
George Herbert 
] E. J. Castle 
•( Rosy Morn 
I Rosie Sydenham 
I Mrs. W. King 
^Phyllis Unwin 

/ Modesty 

t Duchess of Sutherland 
/ Sensation 

t Countess of Aberdeen 

f Princess Victoria* 

\ Pink Gem 


Countess of Spencer 
Paradise 
Enchantress 
Olive Holton 
Codaall Hose 


is 

l 

f Gorgeous 
[ Miss B. Whiley 
l Mildred Ward 
J Countess of Lathom 
\ Coral Gem 
a is meant, not ihe old variety 
with carmine standards. 


succession throughout the year? I have already 
planted Violas, alpine Phlox, and Campanulas; uud 
do not wish for Auhrletiae, Arabia, or Alyssum. I 
would be very glad of the names of any other than 
these.-TYRO. 

[If you desire a permanent subject, we 
know of no plant so well suited as Saxifraga 
muscoides atropurpurea or S. Guildford 
seedling. You might, of course, carpet the 
beds with Anemone blanda, A. fulgens, or A. 
coronaria, all of which flower in advance of 
the Roses. And for a later display the Saxi¬ 
frages would do quite well, or a sowing of 
Mignonette. It is highly probable the 
Anemones and Saxifrages would prove the 
more suitable, and both are readily trans¬ 
planted after flowering is over, if required. 
You might, freely plant Anemone blanda in 
autumn and thinly carpet the bed with the 
Saxifrage, so that the first-named could grow 
through.] 

Making Carnation layers (Fritz ).—The 
“layer” is made of the shoots or “grass” 
which are produced after flowering. In the 
border Carnation these shoots lie close upon 
the ground, and are several inches long. The 
shoot intended to be layered should have 
the lower leaves all cleaned off in readiness, 
taking care that the 6hoot be not torn from 
the main stem. When all is ready, take a 
sharp knife, place the edge of the blade im¬ 
mediately below a joint on the under-sidc 
of the stem, and cut into the stem, so that 
the knife-blade goes half wav through the 
stem, at the same time extending the cut in 
an upward direction till the next joint on 
the stein is cut through. When this is done, 
withdraw the knife, open out the nib or 
tongue where the knife first entered the 
stem, and peg the shoot into sandy soil. You 
should first practise with some pieces of no 
value. It is rather late for layering Car¬ 
nations now. 


Classification. 

The committee recommends the following 
as the best in their colours : — 

White : Dorothy Eckford and Norah Unwin. 

Crimson and scarlet: King Edward and Queen Alex¬ 
andra. 

Rose and carmine : John Inginan. 

Yellinc ami bufl': Mrs. Collier. 

Blue: Lord Nelson ami Romolo Piazzani. 

Blush : Mrs. Hard castle Sykes. 

Cense : Coccinea. 

Pink : Countess Spencer. 

Orange shades: Helen Lewis and Henry Eckford. 

Larender : Lady Grisel Hamilton and Frank Dolby. 

Violet and purple : Duke of Westminster. 

Magenta : George Gordon and Captivation. 

Picotee edged: Dainty. 

Fancy: Sybil Eckford. 

Mavve: Mrs. Walter Wright. 

Maroon and bronze.: Black Knight. 

Strijted and flaked (red and rose): Jessie Cuthbertson. 

Striped and flaked (purple and blue): Sutton’s Marbled 
Blue. 

Bicolor: Jeannie Gordon. 

Marbled: Helen Pierce. 

Excluded Varieties. 

With a view to establishing a basis for the 
elimination of old and inferior varieties, the 
general committee has, on the recommenda¬ 
tion of the floral committee, decided to ex¬ 
clude the following varieties from the 
society’s trials in future: — 


Sensation 

Duchess of Sut herland 
Katherine Tracey 
Lord Kenyon 
Colonist 

lj»d\ Skelmersdale 
Lovely 

Mrs. Knights Smith 
Queen Victoria 
Salopian 
Mars 

Lady Penzance 

Countess of Aberdeen 

Her Majesty 

Mrs. Dilgdnle 

Cyril Breadmore 

I’ritun Donna 

Mrs. Gladstone 

Mrs. Eckford 

Lady M. Ormeaby Gore 

Firefly 

Dorothv Tennant 
Lady Nina Balfour 
Golden Gate 
Admiration 
Countess Cadogan 
Shabzada 
Monarch 
Calypso 
Chancellor 


Lady Mary Currie 
Lottie Hutching 
Venus 

Mrs. 11. K. Barnes 
Blanche Fern’ 

Grey Friar 
Princess of Wales 
Sadie Burpee 
Mrs. Sankey 
Primrose 

Countes9 of Radnor 
Duchess of York 
Emily Eckford 
Waverley 
Boreatton 
Fashion 

Countess of Pov\is 
Oriental 
Gorgeous 
Oracie Greenwood 
Marchioness of Cholmon- 
deley 

Stella Morse 

Mrs. Joseph Chaml>erlain 
Pink Friar 
Blanche Burpee 
Emily Henderson 
Queen of England 
The Invincible Varieties 


Plants for carpet- -I would be glad II you would 
give me the names of some plants that may he 
used for carpeting beds in which dwarf Rosts are 
grown, and which will give flowers and foliage 


Romneya Coulteri in Co. Wicklow, Ire¬ 
land. — Gardening Illustrated for Sep¬ 
tember 7th contains an illustration of a graiul 
specimen of that choice shrub, Heliclirysum 
roamarinifcliuin. Blooming as it docs during 
the month of June, it always meets with a 
large number of admirers. In the month of 
July we have Romneya Coulteri, another 
grand flowering shrub, of equal, if not eu- 
perior, merit. A specimen under my care is 
12 feet high and 9 feet across. It is growing 
against a south wall in company with Peach- 
trees, where both live and thrive in perfect 
harmony. For some years this plant has 
done well, but on the whole it was not en¬ 
tirely satisfactory, for the simple reason that 
the flowers were not sufficiently strewn over 
the very large amount of foliage mode by the 
plant during a season’s growth. In the 
middle of November, 1906, I eut it back to 
the wall, and took out a great deal of weak 
and worthless wood, with the happiest result. 
The plant carried hundreds of blooms, which 
start from the base of the plant, continuing 
lip to the extreme points of the shoots.— 
Thom a 8 Fleming. 

[With the above note we received a photo¬ 
graph, showing a specimen growing naturally, 
and wreathed in bloom. Unfortunately the 
photo was too much reduced to show cfearlv 
the beauty of such a handsome plant.—E d.] 

Crown Anemones. —In the selection of 
bulbs for a spring display, the Crown Anem¬ 
ones are sometimes overlooked ; but those 
who would have conspicuous flowers in their 
gardens next May should bear them in mind 
now that the bulb season is close upon us. 
They will do well on any sunny border so 
long as the soil is light, and make nice blos¬ 
soms for cutting for vases, etc.— Townsman. 

Tidying flower-borders.— When October 
has well advanced, it is apparent on all hands 
that a general renovating is desirable. 
Where the bedding-out system has obtained, 
the sooner the plants are lifted and the soil 
turned over, the better. If it is intended 
to plant bulbs, thought should be given as to 
what variety, and the order given accord¬ 
ingly. Some of the spring-flowering subjects 
that for the past few months have Wen 
making headway, can now be removed to 
their final quarters; we instance Wallflowers, 
Forget-mo-nots, and Canterbury Bells. 
Among herbaceous subjectw there are many 
that should yeceijr? attention. Old flowering 
stems of the earlier Starworts, Campanulas, 


UNIVER- 


OF ILLINOIS A1 


URBANA-CHAMPAI6N 



September 2S, 11)07 


GAllLLMMG ILL USi'llAl'LD. 


409 


Heliantliuses, Gypsophila, Hollyhocks, etc., 
should be cut away, the stakes removed and 
tied up, and a general tidinesB effected. The 
borders may now be forked over, and some 
of the plants, at any rate, will doubtless need 
dividing, and, should the weather continue 
mild, this worn may be got in hand. There 
is nothing gained in allowing all the old mate¬ 
rial to remain, which is apt to make a place 
more like a wilderness than a garden.— 
WOODBASTWICK. 


ARTEMISIA LACTIFLORA. 

The Artemisias, as a family, are not particu¬ 
larly handsome plants, including such com¬ 
mon things as A. Absinthium (Wormwood), 
A. Abrotanum (Southernwood), and A. vul¬ 
garis (Mugwort). The subject of this note is, 
however, well worthy of culture in every gar¬ 
den, being an extremely handsome plant. It 
was discovered by Dr. Henry, in the Pro¬ 


tana, the hardiest and one of the most use¬ 
ful, with creeping, prostrate stems and 
yellow’ flowers ; A. Mutellina, an alpine 
plant growing at an elevation of 7,000 feet, 
with grej% downy foliage that is ornamental 
through the whole year, its variety, A. 
Baumgarteni, has more elegant leafage ; A. 
glacialis, a high alpine, not exceeding an 
l inch in height, with golden-yellow flowers ; 
A. nana, another high alpine of dw arf growth, 
with silvery leaves and yellow flowers; A. 
vallesiaca, a distinct species with almost 
snow’-white foliage ; A. Villarsii, very similar 
to the last-named, but witli longer leaves ; 
A. spicata, G inches in height, its foliage 
covered with fine, silky hairs, and succeeding 
in a cool, moist spot, whereas the other 
species delight in the driest and sunniest 
position available. 

S. W. Fitziierbert. 

Creepers on walls. —In October many of 



Artemisia loctiflora. From a photograph by Mr. S. W. Fitzherbert, Kingswear, S. Devon. 


vince of Hupeh, in China, and is said to 
grow in very moist places, generally on the 
margins of streams, where it is stated to 
attain a height of from G feet to 7 feet. That 
moisture is, however, not indisjK'nsahle to its 
culture is proved bv the example shown in 
the accompanying illustration, which, planted 
in the autumn ot 190f>, in very dry, hot soil, j 
experienced seven months of drought during 
the spring and summer of 1906, during the I 
whole of which time it never received a drop 1 
of water, yet it grew into a handsome plant 
4 feet G inches in height, being, ns will lx* 
seen, very attractive in ap|>earancp, with 
much of the character of the best Spiraeas. 
It was at. its best in the month of August. 
The dwarfer Artemisins do well in poor and 
dry soil in the rock garden. They are ren 
dered attractive by their silvery foliage, often 
covered with silky, glistening hairs. They 
are of the easiest possible culture, and as 
readily grown as Arabis and Aubrietia. 
Among tne best are Arr^nitida or p|demon- 

Digitized by CjOOglC 


the creepers on walls and fences begin to 
have a tawdry and faded look about them, 
and. though the time for thoroughly pruning 
is not yet, in the case of some, like the Vir¬ 
ginian Creeper, some of the more robust 
shoots can he shortened, and the remainder 
tied up, and the walls made to look decent. 
Now is the time, too, when additions in the 
number of wall-coverings should be marie, 
and those newlv planted ought to be given 
some root protection should the weather sub¬ 
sequently prove severe.— Townsman. 

Latliyrus White Pearl.—Those who were for¬ 
tunate* enough to secure plants of this fine Everlast¬ 
ing Pea when it was distributed a year or two since. 

I have every reason to be pleased with it. There is 
■ no doubt about its superiority over the ordinary 
| form of the white flowered perennial Pea. 1 have 
the two kinds growing side hy side, and the pure- 
| white flowers of Pearl are two to three times the 
| size of those of the older form of the flower. For 
I cutting they are invaluable, the greater length of 
| stem making their arrangement in vases and other 
receptacles very easy, besides making a far more 
| effective display.—A. It. H. 


FRUIT. 

ROOT LIFTING. 

As soon as wall fruit-trees are clear of fruit, 
and the borders in which their roots ramify 
are at liberty, such of the trees as stand in 
need of root lifting should be attended to 
while they still retain their foliage. The 
first and second weeks in October are a good 
time to do this, as the soil yet retains 
a considerable amount of solar warmth ab¬ 
sorbed earlier in the season, and this, coupled 
with the fact of the trees being yet in full 
leaf, serves to stimulate the roots to fresh 
action immediately the lifting is completed, 
so that ere winter sets in the trees are, so 
to speak, well on the way to being re-estab- 
Lished. Root lifting is serviceable in more 
way's than one. In the first place, when 
practised on the roots of trees which have got 
rather out of hand as a result of their hav¬ 
ing borii'3 but scanty crops during the past 
few seasons, in consequence of spring frosts 
having crippled the blossoms, it gives them 
the needful check, and restores the proper 
balance between root and branch. Unfruit¬ 
ful trees—i.r., such ns have never hitherto 
yielded a good crop of fruit, also young trees 
full of exuberant growth, can be brought into 
subjection if the roots are lifted and the 
strongest, or “thong’’-like ones .are shortened 
back to within 5 feet or 6 feet of the “hall” 
in the former, and 3 feet to 4 feet in the 
latter. Then, again, there are instances in 
which root lifting and the application of 
fresh compost work wonders with trees which 
have got into an exhausted or debilitated con¬ 
dition through over-cropping or impoverish¬ 
ment of the border. If carefully carried out. 
and light cropping insisted on for a season 
or two, trees in the condition indicated will, 
if healthy, quickly respond, and soon become 
rehabilitated again. 

Some little explanation is needed with re¬ 
gard to the term root lifting, for this must 
not be confounded with lifting. In the bitter 
case, a tree, with its roots and, generally, a 
hall of soil attached thereto, is raised or 
lifted bodily out of the ground and trans¬ 
ported elsewhere, but with regard to the term 
root lifting, what is meant, is to partially lift 
the roots of a tree and in such a manner that 
a ball, varying from 3 feet to 6 feet in width, 
according to the age and size of the tree be¬ 
ing operated on, is left intact, the remainder 
of the roots beyond this being dealt with just 
as circumstances may demand. For instance, 
in the case of a gross growing tree, all the 
strongest of the roots may with safety be 
cut back to the “ball.” but bo careful to 
reserve all that are of medium size, especially 
when numerous fibrous roots branch from 
them throughout their length. In the case 
of a tree in an exhausted condition, the roots, 
as far as possible, should he saved in their 
entirety, and, when laying them out afresh, 
bring them up as near to the surface as cir¬ 
cumstances permit, so that they feel the in¬ 
fluence of solar heat during the growing sea¬ 
son. The roots in all cases should, as fast 
as they are liberated from the soil, be pegged 
back on the ball, and then watered and kept 
covered with damp mats. Where young trees 
are concerned, it is just as well to tunnel 
under the hall before filling in again, npd, in 
the case of older trees, if there is the slightest 
suspicion that there are roots growing in a 
downward direction, do not hesitate to deal 
with them in like manner, as no good result 
can possibly attend the lifting so long as tap 
roots are in existence. When laying out the 
roots again, place them in the various levels, 
and not quite horizontally, or so that they 
slightly incline downwards. If it ran bo 
spared, it is always good policy to place some 
turfy loam about the roots when filling in, ns 
this encourages the formation of fibrous 
roots. Calcareous matter, in the form of 
lime rubble, must also bo thought, of in cases 
where the soil is deficient of lime, and when 
the soil is poverty stricken, make good the 
deficiency with bone-meal rather than em¬ 
ploy organic manures. 

Finally, to carry out the lifting satisfac¬ 
torily and in a workman like manner, open 
a trench in semi circular form, some 8 feet 
to 10 feet distant from ihe stem of the tree, 
and dowi^Hto the drainage, .(jrwhere this 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 








410 


GARDENING ILL UST HIT ED. 


September 28, 1997 


should be. Then, with a four-tined fork, 
liberate the soil from among the roots care¬ 
fully, and work it back out of the way. Con¬ 
tinue in this way until a solid ball of the re¬ 
quired dimensions alone remains. Then the 
work of refilling may be started with so soon 
as the root requirements have had attention. 
When the roots are all covered in, give a 
thorough soaking of water, and allow twelve 
hours to elapse before finishing off, and then 
mulch the surface. The foregoing directions 
are applicable to all kinds of outdoor fruit- 
trees (Figs excepted) which are in need of 
root lifting, and, if carefully conducted, the 
effect cannot fail to influence both the trees 
and their crops in a beneficial manner in 
future, A. W. 


NOTES ON STRAWBERRY CULTURE. 
The lazy-bed, presumably so termed on 
account of the small amount of labour in¬ 
volved, is practically unknown to the present 
generation of Strawberry growers. This 
method of growing Strawberries consists in 
allowing the runners to extend, thus forming a 
thick bed, the foliage quite covering the 
ground. In the spring I planted a bed 4 feet 
wide, and the runners now fairly cover the 
soil. 1 shall not disturb one of them, hut 
shall allow old and young plants to remain 
just as they are. By the ordinary method of 
culture plantations do not lust more Hum 
three years on our light soils. After the third 
year the plants are so weakened that they 
are not worth keeping, but the thick beds last 
much longer. 1 have just done away with a 
bed that has borne good crops for seven 
years, and in my porous soil it is difficult to 
keep the plants in good bearing condition for 
more than two years by the ordinary system. 
I suppose it is because the foliage covers the 
ground that the plants last out better; the 
roots are protected from the effects of hot 
sun. When grown in this way mulching is, 
of course, impossible, but is not needed, as 
the greater part of the fruit does not touch 
the ground. In the early spring a dressing 
of rotten dung or of some concentrated 
manure will ensure a crop of good fruit. The 
berries will not, of course, be quite so large 
as those produced by plants subjected to high 
culture, but those who wish to secure nice 
crops of fair-sized fruit in an inexpensive 
manner will do well to try the so called lazy- 
bed. [ The lazy-bed system in that universally 
adopted round Aberdeen, and we have lately 
seen some heavy crops of fine fruit (fathered from 
such beds, which in the. district referred to are 
only allowed to remain for three, years y and in 
the case of some growers only two years. The 
one great fault which we noted in this mode, of 
growing was that owing to its being imoossible to 
v«e the hoe among the runners the beds got very 
dirty. — Ed. | 

Treatment after fruiting. —Subjected 
to high culture, the Strawberry in the second 
year of its life will yield a heavy crop of 
fruit. The production of this crop has a 
more or less exhausting effect, and. in a 
general way, leaves the plants in a weakened 
condition, the consequence being that the 
yield in the third year is scanty, and the 
plants are so weakened that they are not 
worth keeping. Where a soil naturally 
favourable to the Strawberry exists, the dura¬ 
tion of healthy vigour is longer, but such 
soils are only to be found here and there. 
Nothing, probably, exhausts the soil more 
than this fruit ; in fact, in some gardens that 
have been under culture many years it is 
found impossible to induce vigorous growth 
and longevity without adding fresh soil into 
which a Strawberry root has never found 
entrance. Much may be done, however, to 
maintain health and fruit-bearing powers 
after the crop has been gathered. In a 
general way, the nets are taken off the plants, 
which are cleaned, no special care being 
given during the remainder of the season. It 
is just when they are in a semi-exhausted 
condition, and have taken most of the nutri¬ 
ment from the ground, that they need some 
attention. A dressing of some concentrated 
manure, hoed in as soon jus the fruit is 
gathered, and a good soaking, should a hot, 
dry time set in, make a lot of difference, and 
will have the effect of prolonging the fruit¬ 
bearing capacity of the plants for another 
season or two. 


Plants for forcing. —The practice of 
taking runners from fruiting plants cannot be 
too strongly condemned. A Strawberry plant 
in full bearing has quite enough to do to per¬ 
fect its fruit without being called upon to 
perpetuate the race. Runners produced by 
fruiting plants never have the exuberant 
vitality that characterises those that come 
from young plants that have not been sub¬ 
jected to any great strain. It is curious that 
so obvious a fact should not be more gener¬ 
ally recognised in private gardens. I have re¬ 
peatedly gone through private establishments 
where the pot Strawberries were the only 
weak spot, this being simply because the run¬ 
ners were taken from fruiting plants. Not 
only are runners produced in this way com¬ 
paratively weak, hut they are usually later 
than those that come from plants with the 
freshness of youth in them. For early forcing 
the runners should Ik; ready for layering by 
the middle of July, so that the pots are 
crammed with roots by the end of September. 
Half the failures in early forcing are due to 
imperfect, root action, the plants being sub¬ 
jected to artificial conditions at a time of 
year when the days are short and sunshine is 
not abundant, need an abundance of roots 
in the best possible condition. In order to 
secure runners in the best possible condition, 
jv certain number of plants should be put out 
every autumn in well-prepared ground. The 
flower trusses being picked off, the energies 
of the plants will be concentrated on the pro¬ 
duction of runners, which will come early 
and strong. If this is done annually, two 
birds will he killed with one stone, runners 
of excellent quality will be secured, and 
young plants will be coming on to take the 
place of those that wear out.. 

Making new plantations. —September, 
October, and March arc the best months in 
the year for planting, my favourite time being 
the beginning of October, as by that time the 
ground has been fairly moistened by autum¬ 
nal rains, so that watering is not needful, 
and the ground has retained enough of its 
summer warmth to promote speedy root 
action. Plants set out at that time will lay 
hold of the ground in ten days, and will be 
sufficiently established to be proof against 
frost heaving later on. Private growers 
cannot do better than copy the practice that 
obtains in those market gardens where many 
tons of fruit are annually produced. The land 
is previously cropped with Potatoes, which 
bring it into a perfect condition for the recep¬ 
tion of the plants. The moulding up and 
digging thoroughly sweeten the soil and leave 
it free and clean from troublesome weeds. A 
dressing of manure can he dug in ‘before 
planting, or some concentrated manure may 
ic given in spring and another later on. So 
long as the plants get what they need it 
does not matter how they get it. If the 
grower has plenty of runners at his disposal, 
he may plant them 9 inches apart, taking out 
every other one the second year. In this way 
the ground will be used to the greatest ad¬ 
vantage. Some growers allow 2 feet between 
the rows, others only IB inches. Much de¬ 
pends on the nature of the soil and the cul¬ 
ture. In a holding loam that is richly fed 
the plants will take on a greater leaf develop¬ 
ment than where the soil is light or the cul¬ 
ture not so generous. When planting, I make 
the soil very firm round the roots. In the 
case of autumn-planted runners, this has a 
protective effect against frost-heaving. When 
planting is* done in spring, every cure must 
be taken that the soil is well sweetened. The 
best thing to do is to ridge it up at the close 
of the autumn, as in this way it is exposed to 
the action of wind and frost. Taking a 
favourable time as early in March as possible, 
the ridges can be pulled down, and after 
being forked over to break lumps will be in 
good condition for planting. On light soils 
some make a practice of firming the ground by 
running the roller over it. In any cast*, the 
soil should be well trodden round the roots at 
plantiug-time, ns this helps to preserve them 
against the effects of heat and drought 
later on. 

Changing the stock.— -Potato growers 
have realised the fact that change of seed is 
absolutely necessary, and that the seed should 
come from land of a totally different nature 
and as far away as possible. Thus, Surrey 


growers for profit get Early Rose from 
France and Up to Date from Scotland. 
Strawberry growers should act on the same 
principle, changing their stock frequently. 
I obtained Royal Sovereign when it first came 
out, and propagated from the same stock for 
some years, but have been obliged to make a 
change, as the bearing capacity yearly 
decreased. J. Cornhill. 


THE MORELLO CHERRY. 

In some gardens the Morello Cherry is most 
disappointing, the branches dying away in an 
apparently inexplicable manner. But even 
in these cases the grower need not despair, 
as some means might he found by which the 
trees may be got to succeed fairly well and 
successful crops be assured. I think a slug¬ 
gish root action is answerable for most of the 
failures. To this and hard winter pruning, 
or the two combined, may be fairly traced the 
downward course of many trees. With dthers 
it is the want of suitable food, the yellow east 
of the foliage plainly denoting this, and 
which, if not arrested in its early stages, soon 
brings about the tree’s downfall. 

On heavy and cold soils too much care can¬ 
not be taken in the preparation of the site 
for the trees, especially in affording ample 
drainage that is, if not present naturally. 
The site—a northern aspect, which is the 
best generally that can be devoted to the cul¬ 
ture of the Morello- is often, on account of 
its position, in anything but a satisfactory 
state, both as regards soil and drainage. In 
a garden I know this Cherry would not atone 
time succeed, the branches dying away whole¬ 
sale. The remedy was found in affording 
free drainage and devoting a good portion of 
the border to the roots solely, without any 
disturbance of the surface for other crops. 
The roots by this treatment are kept quite up 
to the surface ; consequently, they derive the 
full benefit of the sun’s rays. In preparing 
the site, the border was raised above the 
ordinary ground level, a tile drain also being 
laid direct from the base of each station into 
the drain running along the walk. Over the 
bottom, before returning the soil, flat tiles 
were laid, these in their turn being covered 
with old brick rubbish. To the soil, as it was 
being returned, was added a fair amount of 
burnt refuse and wood ashes. As regards 
pruning, the trees are gone over in the early 
summer, shortening back anv shoots not re¬ 
quired for laying in so as to form spurs. In 
the early autumn, after all the fruit is 
gathered, the trees are generally overhauled, 
further pruned if necessary, and the shoots 
nailed in. My opinion is that the shoots are 
not best nailed in until the period named. 
In the first place, it would interfere with the 
fruit, and, further, the shoots are enabled to 
become better ripened if allowed more free¬ 
dom throughout the summer. Black aphis, 
often such a pest, will not be troublesome if 
the trees are syringed during the winter, 
and also before the buds burst in the spring, 
with the petroleum Temedy. This should be 
used quite warm, as in this state it is more 
efficacious. Afterwards, when the fruit is set 
and swelling, one or two vigorous syringings 
of a decoction of Quassia and soft soap will 
also keep this pest at bay. Black aphis can 
be kept under if carefully watched, but, once 
let it get hold, the difficulty commences, and 
in the end most likely the trees will entirely 
fail. A. 


NOTES AND III)PLIES. 

The Pear-slug. 1 am enclosing some loaves from 
my I'ear-tree, which are covered with insects. Will 
yon kindly state hy what means 1 can destroy them 
without injuring the fruit? — J. C. 

[The leaves you send have been attacked 
l>v the Pear-slug, the chrysalides of which 
winter in the soil. Remove from 3 inches to 
4 inches of the soil over the roots of the trees 
in the autumn, burying elsewhere, or burn¬ 
ing. and replace with fresh. If the slug ap¬ 
pears next year, dust the trees freely in the 
evening with freshly slaked lime, giving a 
second dusting two or three evenings after¬ 
wards. After a, few days, syringe with clean 
water, to cleanse the trees. When the leaves 
have all fallen, dress with the caustic alkali 
solution, the recipe for and mode of using 
which have eo often been given in these 

c t)HJIViRSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




September 28, 1007 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


411 



TREES AND SHRUBS. 

LONICERA MAACKI. 

The general idea of a Lonicera or Honey¬ 
suckle is that of a free-growing, climbing 
shrub with deliciously fragrant flowers, but 
beside those species to which these descrip¬ 
tions apply there arc others which have 
nothing of the climbing character, but arc 
simply bushes. At one time the members of 
this last-named section were kept separate 
from the Loniccras, and placed in the genus 
Xylosteum, but this is now discarded, and 
the members thereof merged into the genus 
Lonicera. The species herewith figured, 
Lonicera Maacki, belongs to the non climb¬ 
ing group, and about the end of May or in 
June is very handsome. At that time the 


and parching nature, take it out to the depth 
of 2 feet; mix with the excavated soil a little 
well-rotted manure, loam, road-scrapings, or 
any other similar good material which may 
be at hand. Planted in the autumn in such 
a compost, the tree will be afforded a good 
start, and will, when it has once attained a 
good root-hold and strength in proportion, 
take care of itself. 

The Birch in the pleasure-grounds. On 

turning over the pages of Gardening for 
August 24th, I was impressed with the note 
from Mr. Burrell unent this, to me one of the 
most graceful of trees. In the grounds of 
Fordo Abbey is a fine specimen, standing on 
the turf on the lawn. Being on nigh 
ground, it is shown off to the best advantage. 
Whether in leaf or otherwise, the Birch is 
beautiful. When leafless, the white, shining 


Lonicera Maacki. From a photograph in Mr. Chambers* garden at Hoslemere. 


numerous slender, arching branches are 
clothed with ovate, acuminate leaves, a 
couple of inches or a little more in length, 
and thickly packed with clusters of ereamv- 
white flowers. It is a native of Mandshuria, 
and, like many other plants from that region, 
was introduced into cultivation through the 
St. Petersburg Botanic Garden, where it 
first flowered as long ago as 1883. It is, 
therefore, by no means a novelty, but is not 
nearly so well-known as its merits deserve. 
On June 11th last it was given an award of 
merit bv the Roval Horticultural Society. 

’ _ X. 

NOTES AND REPLIES. 

The Arbutus is by p^-^neans fasti(^ous as 
to soil*, preferring 


to son, j»rm«rring. ni 
loam. Tf the natural' 


und 


trunk and branches contrast well with several 
kinds of Firs growing near. I have often 
thought, as I looked on this tree, that many 
places would be improved if more Birches 
and fewer Yews, etc., which are dull and 
heavy-looking, were planted.— Dorset. 

TEsculns parviflora —I wish to know the name 
of the enclosed flowering shrub, growing in a garden 
in Rucks, about 12 fret high, also if it can be crown 
by the suckers, which are plentiful?— Mas. Floyd. 

[The name of the shrub is /Esculus parvi¬ 
flora, better known in gardens as Pavia mac- 
rostachya. It can be increased by means of 
suckers, which, with their attendant roots, 
must, be carefully removed from the parent, 
plant. The best time to carry this out is 
while the plant is still dormant, but after the 
most severe part of the winter is over. These 
suckers must be carefully planted, and 1 teresting*^-^ 


| watered when necessary during the following 
I season.] 

I Shrubs for background —Can you suggest a 
few flowering shrubs, evergreen or otherwise, not 
over <$ feet in height, to form the background to a 
herbaceous border with lawn in front, also saying 
j how high they will grow ?—W. Baily. 
i [The shrubs named in the following list are 
all very suitable for the purpose required. 
I Some of them will grow taller than 6 feet, but 
can he readily kept down to the height given. 
I With the exception of the Barberries, all are 
| deciduous, for flowering evergreens of this 
j class are very few in number: —Berberis 
I Aquifolium, golden flowers, March and 
I April ; Berberis Darwini, orange, May ; Ber- 
beria stenophylla, golden, April and May; 
Cytisus albus (White Broom), white, May ; 

I Cytisus prfficox, cream, April; Cytisus An- 
i dreanuus (crimson-blotched Broom), May; 

Deutzia crenata flore - pleno, 
white, mid-summer; Hibiscus 
syriacus in variety, flowers 
2 inches to 3 inches in diameter, 
in colour the different kinds 
vary from white to pink and 
purple, August; Kerria japo- 
niea flore pleno. like golden- 
coloured Roses, 11 inch in dia¬ 
meter, April; Philadelphia* Le- 
moinci ereetus, white, midsum¬ 
mer; Primus triloba. semi¬ 
double. pink, April ; lihodotypos 
kerrioides, white, like single 
Roses, summer; Ribes aureum, 
yellow, April ; Ribes sangui- 
neunj, pink, April ; Ribes san- 
guineum ntrosanguineum, red, 
April ; Rubus deliciosus, white, 
May; Spartium junccum, yel¬ 
low, July and August; Spiraea 
arguta, white, April ; S. callosa, 
red, July and August; S. Doug- 
lasi, rosy-red, July and August; 
S. primifolia flore-pleno, white, 
April ; Symphoricarpus race mo 
sus, flowers small, but succeeded 
by large white berries ; Tamarix 
Pallasi rosea, pink, summer; 
Viburnum plication, white, 
May ; Weigelas in variety. Three 
good ones are Abel Carrierc, 
pink; Candida, white; and Eva 
Ratlike, crimson. They flower 
in May, but the last-named keeps 
up a scattered succession of 
bloom throughout the summer.] 

A striking combination. — 
The local authorities at South- 
end, in Essex, have acquired an 
estate known as Chalkwell Hall, 
containing ninii^' fine trees, and 
thrown it open to the public. 
Several of the features of the old 
garden are retained, and among 
them are some strange associa¬ 
tions of Poplars and Hawthorns. 
These latter, by the way, do par¬ 
ticularly well in the neighbour¬ 
hood, good examples being met 
with here, there, and every¬ 
where, and invariably laden with 
berries. These combinations re¬ 
ferred to above must have been, 
I should say, planted at least 
fifty years, the idea in each case 
being the same. A large speci¬ 
men of the Aspen Poplar, with a 
naked trunk and spreading head, 
is surrounded at about a couple 
of feet from the trunk with half-a-dozen 
Hawthorns, themselves quite trees, in 
some cases about 20 feet high. These are, 
as with all the others, heavily laden with 
berries, and at a little distance the composi¬ 
tion of the mass or clump is quite a puzzle. 
The general effect is, however, not. at all dis¬ 
pleasing. Some previous owner of the 
estate would appear to have had a strong 
fancy for planting in this way, as numerous 
clumps of half-a-dozen Hawthorns may be 
met with, from which, judging by appear 
ance, the central tree has been removed. Of 
course, such a startling combination could be 
readily overdone; but still, the two clumps 
that have been allowed to remain in their on- 
tircty piv.s.Mit ;i more |>1 < a.sing effort than 


might be supposed, and, as sqen on a recent 
visit, werp,_io me, 1 1 must admit, very in- 

CAMPAIGN 







412 


GARB Em KG ILLUSTRATED. 


September 28 , 1907 


GARDEN WORK. 

Conservatory. —Early-flowering Chrysan¬ 
themums will be in bloom now, and a few 
well-grown plants will give colour and fresh¬ 
ness. There are still some Begonias. Helio¬ 
tropes, Fuchsias, and Zonal Pelargoniums in 
bloom, and plenty of other things are coming 
on. Late-flowering Chrysanthemums should 
remain outside as long as the weather remains 
open. They will be quite safe till the end of 
October under a temporary canvas covering; 
but they will bo better uncovered some time 
longer yet. Plants producing specimen 
blooms should be placed in a cool, well-ven- 
tilated house as soon a* the flowers show 
colour. Earwigs are giving trouble now, 
and should be hunted persistently. Liquid- 
manure may be given frequently now. If 
weak, the plants may have it three times a 
week. It is rather risky leaving choice hard- 
wooded plants out much longer, and we must 
be ready to house them promptly. We want 
all the light we can have in the conservatory 
now, and climbers must be thinned. Tree- 
Mignonette that was started in April, and 
which has bco.n grown cool for the most part 
outside, will now be in flower, or getting for¬ 
ward. If planted out in the borders of the 
conservatory, it will form dense bushes 3 feet 
or 4 feet high, and flower freely. Treated 
in this way, it becomes a shrub, and will last 
more than one year, but the flowers after the 
first year are smaller, and are not quite so 
fragrant. There will soon be plenty of 
dwarf Mignonette in flower in 5-inch and 
6-inch pots. Orange-trees which have been 
standing out on the terrace will possibly be 
coming into flower, or, if not in flower, in 
bud, and should he taken indoors. Orange- 
trees with ripe and green fruits, and flowers 
on at. the same time, arc very interesting, 
and fill the house with fragrance. Tree 
CariiatioiiK which have been out during the 
summer should now bo placed under cover, 
or they may get too much water. For the 
present all houses should have abundant ven¬ 
tilation, especially houses arranged to receive 
plants from the open air. A further sowing 
of Mignonette may be made if required. If 
seeds of Schizaiithus Wisetonensis are sown 
now. and grown on through the winter in a 
temperature of 55 dogs., they will make nice 
plants for the conservatory early next sum¬ 
mer. If any of the hanging baskets are get¬ 
ting shabby, clear out the old plants, and re¬ 
fill with fresh young plants just coming into 
flower. Begonias arc suitable. 

Stove. —Among the winter - flowering 
plants now coming on, and which may be 
taken for a time to the conservatory, when in 
flower, are Scutellaria Mocciniana. In many 
places these soft-wooded, winter-flowering 
things, which can be grown into useful sized 
stuff from cuttings in one season, are used 
in the conservatory ; ami when a supply of 
cuttings has been rooted, the old plants are 
thrown out, dependence being placed upon 
the young plants. If a large specimen is 
wanted, place three plants in a 7-inch or 
8-inch pot. These made-up specimens arc 
more effective than old plants. There are, 
of course, exceptions to this rule, as there 
arc to all rules. An old, cut-back plant of 
Poinsettia may be grown into a good speci¬ 
men, carrying many heads of bracts. In like 
manner, old, cut back plants of Euphorbias 
arc more effective when well done than 
young stuff, although these, when made lip 
several plants in a pot, are useful, and I have 
pinched hack pots of cuttings, and shifted 
them on. and made nice pots in that, way ; 
but. the cuttings must bo rooted early, so that 
the In*fc pinching may be done early in Juno, 
to give time for growth to lx* made and 
ripened, to get well-flowered sprays. Regu¬ 
lar fire* arc required now, even in what may 
lx* termed a cool stove. Without fire-heat 
our house* fall to 50 dogs, at night, and, con¬ 
sidering the high price of fuel, it is necessary 
to be careful of it, as the fires must be used. 

Hard-wooded plants.— We buy a few 
Azaleas from Belgium annually. These have 
been received, potted very firmly in peat, and 
placed in a north house, with all lights open 
night and day, and syr inged occasionally, till 
the roots became 11 /tTve. It willjifcLjjurt an 
Aznfefa. to trim off yfq| ^o)'ly wip^s if the 


treatment is right, afterwards, but the plants 
must be kept cool, and sufficiently moist, 
without being over-watered. Too much 
water is nearly as had as too little, but both 
extremes are bad. Heath* should bo under 
cover now, with this proviso—they cannot be 
too cool so long as frost is kept out. and in 
the winter a degree or two of frost will not 
do much harm to this family, if free from 
damp. Boronias, Pimeleas, and other Cape , 
and Australian plants will require a little ' 
higher temperature in winter. At present, 
when first housed, they should have very free 
ventilation, .and he watered promptly when 
necessary, but not till then. 

Plants for table decoration. —Everybody 
require* something of this kind now, and the 
demand has to be met in a liberal xpirit. 
Crotons, Dracaenas, and Palms must be 
grown in quantity in 5-inch pots to give the 
necessary changes, and for other things, 
Ferns in various sizes—some in thumb-pots— 
Asparagus and Sniilax in long trails; and for 
flowering plants, Begonias and Heaths in 
various sizes. Of late years a demand lias 
sprung lip for small but well-shaped plants in 
thumb-pots, and small plants of pink or reel- 
flowered Heaths are bright and effective. 
We want colours that are effective under arti¬ 
ficial light, and Pandanus Veitchi may do for 
an occasional change when in good colour. 
Cyperus alternifolius variegatus is light and 
graceful, and there is much variety among 
Ferns, including the Gold Ferns or Gymno- 
grammas. Of course, many of these things 
cannot be grown without a stove temperature 
in winter. 

Potting and boxing bulbs. -All the usual 
forcing bulbs may be started now, either in 
pots or boxes. If started in pots or boxes, 
they may be transferred to vases when 
they come into bloom. Well-ripened bulbs 
will flower in any sweet rooting medium, and 
the Joss Lily, which is a Narcissus, will suc¬ 
ceed in pebbles surrounded by water. Of | 
course, most bulb-growers use sweet, open 
soil—loam, leaf-mould, and sand. For con¬ 
servatory work, where a mass of colour is 
wanted. Narcissi, Hyacinths, and Tulips I 
may be started in large pots or pan*, and, if j 
plunged in Cocoa-nut-fibre for six weeks or j 
so, they will make roots. They may then be 
moved to a cool structure for a time, and then 
placed in gentle heat; but they will not hear 
very hard forcing. 

Lifting roots of vines.— If a house of 
Grapes is unsatisfactory from deep rooting, 
the only real remedy is to lift the roots. See 
to the drainage, and place the root6 in good 
loam, fortified with a mixture of bones, wood- 
ashes, old plaster, and artificial plant food, 
specially made for Vines. Do the work now, 
shading the Vine*, if necessary. Make the 
roots comfortable, and the Grapes will be 
fine and of good colour. 

Plants for window-boxes.— A box filled 
with Pernettya speciosa, well berried, will be 
effective all winter. Dwarf Chrysanthemums 
also will last all through the autumn. Violas 
or Pansies that were sown in April are now 
coming into bloom, and make charming 
masses all winter at a small cost. Hybrid 
Primulas also look better than brown, half- 
dead shrubs. 

Outdoor garden.- Prepared beds for Roses 
by trenching and manuring. To have really 
effective beds of Roses, only a few kinds 
should be planted in each bed. Where many 
kinds are planted, some will fail to grow well, 
and leave a weak place in the bed. There is 
plenty of vigorous Rose* suitable for group¬ 
ing, and that will do on their own roots. 
Hardy annuals may still be sown for spring 
flowering. We shall probably have a fine 
autumn, and the growth will he rapid. Finish 
propagating bedding plants and cuttings of 
evergreen shrubs, and Rose* will root now in 
a shady border, kept moist. Early flowering 
bulbs should bo planted this month, if pos¬ 
sible, as the early-planted things, as a rule, 
flower best. Bulb* of the Madonna Lily will 
move safely. Lilies and other plants which 
have done flowering are sometimes cut down 
as soon as the flowers fade, for the sake of 
neatness, but it is better for all bulbs to be 
left till the stems are ripe. Dahlias are now 
very bright, and should have another tie 
given to them, to prevent breakage from wind, 


as we hope to keep them flowering for some 
time yet. Gather seeds of any plant we‘wish 
to save. Give the finishing touche* to Carna¬ 
tion beds. A little soot and a sprinkling of 
vaporite will be useful. Box edgings may be 
replanted now, if necessary. When the edg¬ 
ing becomes gappy, it is better to take up and 
replant. If Roses are attacked by the 
Orange-fungus, pick off badly affected leaves 
and burn them. Do not permit weeds to 
make headway. 

Fruit garden. —Over luxuriant fruit-trees 
may be root-pruned now bv opening a trench 
3 feet from the stem, deep enough to get 
under the roots, and cutting all those which 
are descending into the subsoil. If the 
trench i* dec]) enough, it will be an easy 
matter to work up towards the stem, and 
undermine the ball, so as to reach all roots 
on one side. The other side may be done 
next year, or when necessary. There are 
still far too many old, barren tree* in gar¬ 
dens and orchards. The worst of these may 
now be grubbed, and the site prepared by 
changing the soil for other trees. Finish 
planting Strawberries. Givon’s Prolific is a 
good late variety; Bedford Champion is a 
good mid*eason kind. The only fault I can 
find with Royal Sovereign is its early bloom¬ 
ing habit, which often lead* to failure front 
spring frost*, especially when planted in low- 
lying districts. Sir J. Paxton is reliable, 
and is still being planted largely. Cut away 
all old wood from summer-bearing Rasp¬ 
berries, and thin out young canes to four or 
so New plantations may be made during tho 
autumn, first trenching and manuring tho 
land, as Raspberries usually remain several 
year* on the same silo. Very often they are 
left too long in the same position. Gather 
Apples and Pears when they part easily from 
the stalk. Later varieties should remain on 
the trees sonic time longer yet, as they have 
not yet completed growth. Cut out old 
wood.from Peaches to give free exposure to 
the young wood. This only refer* to trees 
where the fruits have been gathered. Where 
the root* have been mulched, remove all 
manure to let the sun warm the borders and 
ripen wood. 

Vegetable garden.— Fill spare frames 
with half-grown Lettuce* and Endives. 
Gather herbs for drying and vegetables for 
pickling. Plant out Cabbages for spring. 
They may follow Onions without much dig¬ 
ging. Break up the surface, and apply at- 
the same time a dressing of soot or very short 
manure. Eighteen inches apart is quite 
enough space for small early Cabbages, and 
the large varieties are not much grown now. 
Small and carlv kinds are the most appre¬ 
ciated now. Plant Lettuces and Endives 
under the shelter of the south wall now. 
Prick out early Cauliflower* either into 
frames or on a warm, sheltered spot, where 
the plants can be sheltered with branches 
when frost comes. Give Celery, if dry, a 
soaking of liquid-manure a day or two before 
earthing-up. Triin the bottom of the plants, 
and tic up the leave* before the liquid-manure 
is applied, and the plant* will then be ready 
for earthing up tho first dry day. All Let¬ 
tuce* and Endives should be tied up when dry 
to blanch. Gather all Beans when large 
enough, and salt the surplus for future use. 
Late Peas are looking well and bearing abun¬ 
dantly, but. sunshine i« wanted to fill the 
pods. Autocrat is being a good deal grown 
for late use. and No Plus Ultra has been a 
miccess, and is still bearing freely. Make up 
Mushroom beds in house now. Select the 
manure from a good source, and intermix and 
turn several times before making up the 
bed. The spawn also must be good and new, 
E. Hobday. 

THE COMING WEEK’S WORK. 

Extract .< from a Carden Diary, 
fie/if ember 30th .—Sowed more Mignonette 
in pots. Commenced moving some largo 
evergreen shrub*. They were prepared for 
moving last year by digging a trench round, 
leaving a suitable ball for moving, and filling 
up trench with good soil. We shall move 
them on a low; hyqflrtfjv y Ire p 1 ed trolley, with a 
single shaft in front. We shall have no diffi¬ 
culty with them, as they have in ado new 
1 fibres into the fresh soil. 



September 28, 1307 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


413 


October 1st .—Cuttings of Rose# are now 
being planted. We plant in rows, leaving 
only about 2 inche# or 3 inches above ground, 
tread in firmly, give a soaking of water, 
and spread a couple of inches of old leaf 
mould or peat-Moss-litter manure between 
the rows, and very few fail. Liquid-manure 
is given to autumn-blooming Roses, which 
are showing plenty of buds; many of these 
are Hybrid Teas. Put in more cuttings of 
hardy climbing plants. We always keep a 
few of these in pots in a movable condition. 

October 2nd .—Finished planting Carnations 
in beds. A few are kept in pots to fill up 
vacancies and for other purposes. Chrysan¬ 
themums receive weak liquid-manure now at 
every watering. Early flowering varieties 
have been placed under cover, but the late 
kinds will be kept outside as long as can be 
done with safety. Filled several frames with 
Violets for winter flowering. The soil be¬ 
tween the plants has been covered thinly with 
sifted oshe# to keep down damp. 

October 3rd. —Hard-wooded plants have 
now been placed under glass, but light# are 
left open night and day for the present, so 
that the change may be gradual. Pruned 
Vines in early houses; shall wash and train 
the Vines first opportunity. Remove some of 
the exhausted soil from the surface of the 
borders, and top-dre## with good loam, bone- 
meal, and a little artificial plant-food. Out¬ 
side borders will be covered with leaves as 
soon as they can be had. 

October Jfth .—Pelargonium cutting# are still 
outside, but the frames will bo covered with 
the light# if frost conies, and all will be 
taken indoor# before winter. By that time 
the houses will be cleared of Tomatoes, and 
washed down with soap and water. Planted 
out more Cabbages and Lettuces, and put 
the hoi 1 * through Spinach. Onions, etc. 
Looked over Strawberries in pots to remove 
runners and weeds. All old Strawberry 
plantations have been mulched with manure. 

October 5th .—Cauliflower plants have been 
pricked out in front of a forcing-house; they 
generally do well there, and all frames are 
wanted "for other things. Wc are still mov¬ 
ing a few evergreen shrubs and trees. Every¬ 
thing is watered in and made firm, and stakes 
used where necessary. If the autumn should 
be dry, the hose will be used to damp the 
foliage, and all will be mulched with peat- 
Moss-litter manure. 


ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 
September 17th. 

There was on this occasion a rich and varied 
display of flowers and fruits, with a fair at¬ 
tendance of visiters. Dahlia# in particular 
of all sections made a gay scene. Exhibits of 
Orchids and fruits were also displayed, but 
not so numerously as on some former ocea 
sions. Some interesting novelties were met 
with, and especially would wo mention the 
meritorious exhibit of Montbretias staged by 
the Messrs. Wallace and Co., and which con¬ 
tained many of the fine named varieties 
raised bv Mr. G. Davidson, Westwick, Nor¬ 
wich. Some excellent new Dahlias were also 
shown, and a new species of Viburnum from 
Western China was honoured with a first- 
class certificate. Dahlias, as we have already 
stated, were finely shown, the exhibit of 
Messrs. Carter, Page, and Co, London Wall. 
E.C., extending across the platform end of 
the hall. The Dahlia exhibit# of this firm 
have ever been of a high standard of excel¬ 
lence, and we think this was surpassed on the 
present occasion. Fine masses of blooms, 
with as little of the formal a# is possible for 
the flower when exhibited, met the eye, the 
rich display of mostly self-coloured varieties 
creating one of the finest groups we have seen 
this year. Cactus varieties predominated, 
and there were singles, Pompons, and others. 
A large variety of Clematises was staged by 
the sajne firm. The Dahlias, chiefly Cactus 
kinds, from Mr. J. Walker. Thame, were also 
fine and artistically displayed, and we were 
not a little pleased to note the variety of 
colour in the seldom-seen quilled Aster#. The 
Messrs. Canned and Sons, Swanley, also had 
a fine bank of Dahlias, and here we noted the 
large decorative kinds 'JerS very prominent. 
The Messrs. T. S. \^Ure p (L)d., Mfli^m, I 
led a table" with Caattn arid 


Middlesex, filled 


other Dahlias, one variety, Cynthia, receiving 
an award of merit. Mr. Stredwiek, Mr. 
West, and Mr. H. Shoesmith, Woking, were 
other exhibitors of the Cactus Dahlia, the 
first-named securing four awards for new 
kinds. Meosrs. Hobbies, Ltd., Dereham, had 
an imposing display of the new r Pneonia- 
flowered Dahlia#, the huge, gorgeous 
flowers in pink, white, scarlet, crimson, etc., 
attracting much attention. Gladioli and other 
hardy flowers were staged in abundance. 

The Tree Carnations from Messrs. W. Cut- 
bush and Sons, Highgate. were of fine 
quality, and displayed the best- culture. Mr. 
Robert Norman (white), Mrs. Burnett (pink), 
Robert Craig (*scarLet). with Enchantress, 
were among the beat. The flowers were ar¬ 
ranged in vases, several dozens of each 
variety giving a good idea of their worth. 
Mr. Amos Perry, Enfield Hardy Plant Farm, 
had a good display of seasonable hardy 
flowers, with Lilies, etc.. Liatri# pychnos- 
tachya and Kniphofia Macowani being very 
striking. A variety of forms of Lychnis 
grandiflora ami allied kinds was seen. Mr. 
M. Prichard, Christchurch, Hants, also had 
a rich display of hardy flower#, Kniphofias 
being a strong feature. Quite an exceptional 
group was that of Clcrodendron fallax as ex¬ 
hibited by Lord Salisbury, Hatfield (gardener, 
Mr. Prince). There were some two or three 
dozen plants of 2-J feet high, each plant car¬ 
rying a splendid pyramidal panicle of the 
vermilion-scarlet flower#. It. is rarely this 
fine plant is seen in such good condition. 
Mr. Chas. Turner. Slough, had a very inte¬ 
resting exhibit of Pompon Dahlias, some five 
dozen varietie# being staged. Show' and 
fancy Dahlias were also exhibited in excel¬ 
lent style by Mr. Turner. Messrs. J. Cheal 
and Sons had Dahlias and hardy flowers, the 
firm showing Cactus, Pompon Cactus, ami 
single Dahlias very finely. Mr. L. R. Rus¬ 
sell, Richmond, showed Clematises in flower 
and a variety of interesting shrubs. The 
Messrs. Jas. Veitch and Sons, Ltd., Chelsea, 
staged many interesting plants, among which 
Hippophse rhamnoides feemina and the hand¬ 
some Viburnum rhytidophylluni were seen. 
Streptocarpi in a score of pleasing colour 
shade# also commanded attention. Messrs. 
Bull and Son, Chelsea had stove plant# in 
variety, with Orchids, while Messrs. W. 
Wells and Co., Ltd., Merstham, hail a pleasing 
variety of early-flowering Chrysanthemums. 
Mr. H. B. May, Edmonton, filled a large, 
table with handsome bushes of Bouvardia# in 
the best varieties, the plants models of good 
culture. Messrs. W. and J. Brown. Peter¬ 
borough and Stamford, were responsible for 
the only exhibit of Rose# staged on this occa¬ 
sion, the fine bank of bloom containing many 
excellent varieties. Hardy flowers. Chrysan¬ 
themums, Michaelmas Daisies, etc., were 
staged by Mr. Frank Brazier, Caterham, and 
Messrs. Hugh Low and Co., Enfield, had a 
pretty group of Chironia ixifera, Carnations, 
etc. 

Among the more interesting exhibit# before 
the Fruit Committee was a collection of 
Pears, Apples, Plums. Tomatoes, Melons, 
Cherries, etc., from the University College, 
Reading (Mr. C. Foster, superintendent). A 
large collection of Apples came from Messrs. 
Spooner and Sons. Hounslow, including des¬ 
sert and cooking sorts, also such Plum# as 
Pond’s Seedling, Monarch, and Cox’# Em¬ 
peror. A collection of thirteen dishes of 
Peas from Mr. B. Lockwood, Huddersfield, 
displayed the highest cultivation. Mr. Mor¬ 
timer showed Cucumbers, and Sir E. Loder 
had some fine samples of Williams’ Bon 
Chretien Pear and Apple Worcester Pear- 
main. The principal exhibitors of Orchids 
were the Messrs. Jas. Veitch and Sons. Ltd., 
Chelsea, who had Cattleya#, Lseiio-Cattleyas, 
etc.; Messrs. Armstrong and Brmvn. with 
many choice Cypripediums and Cattleyas; 
Messrs. Charle#worth and Co., Heaton, Brad¬ 
ford, in whose group the pretty Vanda Kim- 
balliana was noted ; the Messrs. Moore, Ltd., 
Leeds; and Messrs. Sander and Co., St. 
Albans, whose group included a lovely lot of 
Di«a grandiflora and Cypripedium Gode- 
froyae leucochilum, etc. Major Holford, 
Westonbirt, and Mr. F. M. Ogilvie, Oxford, 
also brought choice or new kinds. 

A complete list of awards will be found in 
our advertising columns. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

Questions.— Queries and answers are inserted in 
Gardening free of charije if correspondents follow these 
rule*: All communications should be clearli / and concisely 
written on one side of the paper only, ami addressed to 
the Editor of Gardening, 17, Fumival-street , Uolbom, 
London, E.C. Letters on business should be sent to the 
Publisher. The name and address of the sender are 
required in addition to any designation he may desire to 
be used in the. paper. When more than one query is sent, 
each should be on a separate piece of paper, atui not more 
than three queries should be sent at a time. Correspon¬ 
dents should bear in mind that, as Gardenixo has to be 
sent to press some time in advance of date, queries cannot 
always be replied to in the issue immediately following 
the receipt of their communication. We do iiot reply to 
queries by post. 

Naming fruit.— Readers who desire our help in 
naming fruit should bear in mind that several specimens 
in different stages of colour and size of the same kind 
greatly assist in its determination. We have received from 
several correspondents single specimens of fruit's for 
naming, these in many cases being unripe and other¬ 
wise poor. The differences between varieties of fruits are 
in many cases so trifling that it is necessary that three 
specimens of each kind should be sent. We can undertake 
to name only four varieties at a time, and these only when 
the above directions are observed. 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

Oaltonia candicans {J. Drown ).—This is of easy 
culture, and quite hardy in light soils. It is valuable 
for hold groups in the mixed border in the flower 
garden or between choice shrubs. It is easily in¬ 
creased by offsets from the bulbs or from seeds, the. 
seedlings flowering about the fourth year. It is also 
known as Hyacinlhus candicans, the name you give. 

A parasite on Asters <fc’. (/.).—Your plant is 
attacked by Dodder (Cuscutn). This is a troublesome 
and very destructive parasite, so harmful that the 
presence of a single seed is sufficient to cause the 
condemnation of a sample of Clover. In the garden it 
is probably more of a nuisance than, anything else; 
but it should be rigorously suppressed. It weakens 
and eventually destroys the plants it preys on. The 
seeds germinate in the soil, but afterwards the 
Dodder feeds on the plants on which it entwines 
itself. 

Plants for bed (J. O. >*.).—You do not say for 
what purpose you desire the plants,. and whether 
permanent subjects are required or not. Nor do you 
say if the lied is to retain its present shape or be 
altered as suggested. What you have now in the 
bed are chiefly annuals, and these are giving a poor 
display, perhaps because of soil poverty and the sharp 
slope combined. Let us know clearly what you re¬ 
quire, and we will usd-d you if we can. Please give 
particulars of soil and its depth, and say if the posi¬ 
tion is a very dry one. 

Plants for fountain basin (Lavinia).-Ot Ferns 
you might plant any of the dwarf, heavily-crested 
forms of Scolopendrium vulgare, also Blecliiumi 
boreale, Cyatopteris fragilis, Lastrea montana, L. 
®inula, etc. Of other plants, Soduin spurium, S. 
Lydium, 8. Sieboldi, S. pulchellum. Other useful 
plants would be Arenaria balearica, Cyananthus 
lobatus: any of the Aubrietias; such alpine Phloxes 
as amueiia. frondosu. Nelsoni, Vivid.Model,and Sprite, 
all of which are useful trailing plants; Campanula 
pulla, C. pumila, C. p. alba, C. garganica, and C. g. 
alba; Achillea rupestris, A. Clavennoe; Adonis vernalis. 
Primula rosea, Saxifraga granulata fl.-pl., S. apicu- 
lata, 8. sancta, etc. You might also insert some of 
the early bulbs, such as Crocus, Snowdrop. Chionu- 
doxa. Iris persica, I. reticulata, 1. stenophylla, etc., 
all of which are very charming when in flower. 

Greenhouse for Carnations and Roses 
(.V. 7’.).—Both Carnations and Roses prefer plenty of 
air—that is to say, the structure for them should bi¬ 
as lofty as may be practicable. We should say that 
a small house of 16 feet by 10 feet should he about 
ft feet high to the eaves and about 10 feet to upper 
bar. If it is to be a span-roof it should run from 
north to south; if a lean-to, to a south or south-west 
aspect would be preferable. As you desire to grow 
Carnations in the structure, you must have staging, 
arid this would be best down the centre of house. 
This would enable you to have a narrow border on 
both sides, wherein you could plant out some Roses; 
hut if you prefer to grow all in pots, then a staging 
round both sides would be best. Do not shade the 
roof by planting strong-growing Roses thereon, as 
both Carnations and Roses prefer as much light as 
possible. 

Roses in cold greenhouse (A. L. S. C., Ayr¬ 
shire).— The Fdlicitc-Perpetue is a most unsuitable 
sort to plant tinder glass. It requires a position 
where it can grow almost unrestricted. You may 
transplant both of the Roses named at the begin¬ 
ning of October, previously preparing the future 
positions for them. The F41ieit£-l’erpetuc would do 
well planted against, a dead tree or a post some 
8 feet to in feet high; but the soil must be deeply 
dug first (at least 2J feet deep) and manure deeply 
incorporated with lower spit of soil. Let someone 
assist vou to transplant the trees, one holding the 
branches, the other carrying the roots in a mat with 
any soil that adheres to them. After the roots are 
carefully spread out iu the bole, at a depth of about 
6 inches or 4 inches from the surface when planted, 
give the roots a good watering, then fill in with fine 
soil, trending this firmly about the roots. I*ill in 
more soil, raising it a little al>ovu ordinary level. 
Doubtless the leaves will flag, but that will not do 
any barm, and they may be cut off first, if preferred. 
The Gloire de Dijon would do well on a south or west 
wall or against a pillar. You can disperse the in¬ 
sects that have been troubling you by removing the 
surface soil and burning it, then give the border ami 
wnlls o! I he struct ure a good dusting dow n w ith 
fresh slaked lime. A Jar, quarter filled with thin 
syrup, and sunk into the ground, acts as a good 




414 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


September 28, 1907 


trap to many insect pests in greenhouses. Watch 
your pot-Roses especially at night, and pick otf any 
of the pests that are seen. 

TREES AND SHRUBS. 

Cutting back Hollies and Yews ( Eveley ).— 
The best time to cut back Hollies is in the early 
spring just before they begin to move. Never clip 
Hollies with the shears, but always use a sharp knife. 
Yews may be pruned at the same time, but in their 
case the shears may be used. 

FRUIT. 

Truit culture (B. C. II.).— When Mie points nf 
the shoots of a Pear-tree die away it is evidence of 
a .species of canker, caused by the roots having got 
.too deep into poor subsoil, where the constituents to 
make mature wood are not found. Your best course 
with your Uvedale's St. Germain tree will be to 
open a trench, 2 feet wide and as deep, all round it, 

1 feet from the stem, cutting oil' any deep roots, but 
saving all small ones, to lie relaid as the trench is 
refilled. Grub under the trees, and cut oir all deep- 
running roots. Refill the trench with fresh soil. if. 
possible, then give the roots a top-dressing of liall- 
dcrayed manure. The drainage from a stable, mixed 
with three times its bulk of water, and exj>osed all 
day in a tub, makes excellent liquid-manure, to be 
applied to fruit-trees once a week freely if in fruit, 
but not after the fruits colour. Some soot mixed 
with it does great good, but should be soaked in the 
tub in a coarse bag. Dessert, Pear-trees on a wall 
usually do lie-.t on west walls, but in Norfolk you 
may find a south wall none too warm. Plant Sou¬ 
venir du Congres, Marie Louise, Louise Bonne of 
Jersey, Doyenne du Cornice, Pit mast-on Duchess, 
Winter Nelis, and Josephine dcs M a lines to give you 
a good succession of fruit.,. The best plan now is 
to plant cordons, is inches apart, and three or more 
trees of each variety, just as space can be found. In 
that way a wall is more readily furnished, and fruit¬ 
ing is earlier. The proximity of the pond is yet too 
remote to alfeet the Pear-trees. 


SHORT REPLIES. 


M. Cock.— Yes; we sec no reason why a house in 
the position you give should not answer. It must be 

heated to keep out frost.- ('rook Street.— No; you 

cannot move the Asparagus as you wish. If the bed 
is an old one, you could lift the plants and force 
them, but if you attempt to replant, then failure is 

sure to follow.- C. Richardson .—See reply to 

“ Eureka,” re value of Eureka paper, in our issue of 
June 8th, p. 187.-IP. .S. M .—Without further parti¬ 

culars if is quite impossible to assign any reason 

for the failure of the particular Vine.- T. A. G.— 

The trouble is due to exhaustion. Had you put down 
some layers in July, so as to have hail young stock 
to plant out this autumn or next spring, you would 
then have had good flowers. We should not hesitate 
to destroy them, as the variety is evidently very 

poor, and not worth growing.-(/. A. Faulkner. 

Your Plum-tree has been severely attacked by green¬ 
fly. When the leaves fall dress it well with the 
caustic alkali solution, which we have so often re¬ 
ferred to in these pages. Gather lip all the leaves 

and burn them.- A Reader.—The only reason we 

can assign is the unfavourable season in the absence 
of any particulars as to your cultivation. The variety 
is evidently the Old Red, a very much corrugated 

form, and seldom grown now.- Climber.*- 1, You 

cannot keep the plants you mention in a cold house 
such as you have. *2. See article on “ Wall Garden¬ 
ing.” in our issue of June Kith, 190(5, a copy of which 

can he had from the publisher, post free, for lid.- 

I). IF. //.—Either of the two Roses would answer, 
but as, no doubt, you would like to have some 
autumn bloom, then by all means plant Gruss an 

Teplitz.- James News lead.—Your Grapes are what 

is known as “ shanked.” You will find an article 
dealing freely with this malady as a reply to “ Hel- 
shum,” in our issue of August 10th, p. 303. We 
have seldom seen such badly-shanked berries as those 
you send, plainly showing that the whole trouble lies 
at the roots.- Gtbbins .—We know of no such Cur¬ 
rant as you inquire about.- Argonaut .—The best 

way will be to advertise what you want in our pages. 

- E. G. Burg. — Kindly send us some particulars as 

to your trees—the position they are in, their age. and 
the nature of the soil. If one may judge by the 
leaves sent, we should say that the trouble lies at 
the roots, which are evidently in a wet, cold soil. 
This we only surmise, as you say nothing whatever 
to guide us in any way as to the probable cause ot 

the trouble.- J. Wright .—Your Grapes are very 

much shanked, due no doubt to bad root action. The 
roots of the Vines are evidently very few and the 
soil in the border is sour and inert, two evils which 
are sure to bring on “ shanking.” See article on 
“ Grapes Shanking,” in our issue of August 10th, 

p. 303.- Oaklands. — l. Evidently you are giving your 

Peach-trees too much water when the fruit is ripen¬ 
ing, or it may be that the drainage of the border is 
bad, causing the soil to be sour. 2, See article on 
“ Overgrown Fig-tree,” in our issue of Septem¬ 

ber 7th, p. 359, and also reply to “ Muriel,” re “ Figs 
growing too strongly,” in our issue of Septem¬ 

ber, l-ltli, p. 37G. Hampshire.—1, See article on 

” Annual Sunflowers.” in our issue or September 14th. 
p. 881. 2. You can sow the seed in the open ground, 
or in boxes or puls, and then transplant. 3, Yes. 


NAMES OF PLANTS AND FRUITS. 


Names of plants. -A. B. Price.—1, Clianthus 
pp.; 2, Must sec in flower; 3, Clematis sp.; 4, Not 
recognised. You should grow a few of each in pots, 
and plant out in a good position two or three of 
them. They should/Ce>iuite hardy ill your county 
(Down). If. when tley flojfel| you*\ll |.stb*l us speci¬ 
mens, wc will db ou M>e£ Va"n ,i nie^tccarVor you.- 


De Pontibus.—A, Olearia Haasti; 2, Kindly send a 

better specimen.- A. Z.—l, Chrysanthemum frutes- 

cens Etoile d’Or; 2,Helianthua dccapetalus: 3. Helian- 

thus hetiflorus.- Lewis Jones.— The editor of a 

gardening periodical is supposed to know everything, 
and, doubtless, this is the reason you send the 0-inch 
long bit of dried-up stick you call a “ root,” and ask 
us to name it. We certainly do our best to name 
living plants when flowers and leaves are sent to us 
in good condition, but the wretched twig before us 
may have been taken from a wood-faggot many 
months ago and oven-dried for a spell. It Is the 
most ridiculous “specimen for naming” we have yet 
seen, and we inquire, with not- a little impatience, 
why you thus trifle with our valuable time?- J. M. 

— 1. Sedum acre; 2, S. suprium; 3, S. reflexum; 4, 
Not recognised; 5, Sedum hispanicum var. glaucum. 

- Loccr of Ferns.— 1 and 2, Forms of Begonia Rex; 

3, Tradescantia zebrina; 4, Ophiopogon Jaburan vurie- 
gatuin; 5, Begonia ascoteusis; 0, Begonia Lyncbiana; 
7, Begonia corullina. In future, please read our rules 

as to the naming of plants.- G. II. R.— Indigofera 

floribunda.- Blackpool.— Cannot name from leaf 

only.- E. F.— Lychnis dimna var.- Ilenrg Hall.— 

Hyacinthus (Gultonia) cundicans.- Tac.— 1, Ber- 

beris Darwini; 2, Not recognised; 3, Lonieera aureo- 
reticulata; 4, Probably a variegated Privet, but too 

much withered.- Col. Feth erxtonhaugh.—Cimici- 

fuga cordifolia.- II. IF. Daltry.— l. Alstrtemeria 

brasiliensis: 2. Heleniiim autumnule striatum; 3, Poly¬ 
gonum sphairoatacliyum; 4, Agrostomma coronaria. 

- M. L. E. Tynohitt.— Lyeium chiuense.- A. 1).— 

Hclianthus var.s., but impossible to name from the 
dried-up scraps you send us. We must have fresh 

specimens, including both foliage and flowers.- 

A. M. P.— Leycesteria formosu.- Wickham.— Bud- 

dlcia variabilis. —- (’. S. 7.-1. Escullonia rubra; 2. 

Kseallonia macrantba: 3, Next week.- Ilushford.— 

Specimens quite shrivelled up. - Ft. Tustin.— Sweet 

Alvssum (Alvssum maritiinum).- Miss Bell.— Spirrea 

japonica var. Biiinalda.- C. B.—l, Heliopsis Levis; 

2, Coreopsis flabcllata. It is very unfair to send us 
such dried-up scraps.- (l. J. Stock.— Specimens in¬ 
sufficient.- Walter T. -Olearia Haasti.-.Irbor.— 

1. Tradescantia virginicu: 2. Erigeron glabellus; 3, 
Impaticns glandulifcra; 4, Poppy fallen to pieces. 

- Zero.— (Knothera frutieosa; wc are not aware of 

its being poisonous.- F■ M. A. //.—The plant is the 

Sea p wort (Saponaria officinalis).- Mrs. Patrick.- 

1 , Spira'a callosa; 2, Leycesteria formosu; 3, Veronica 

diosnurflora: 4, Cannot mime without flowers.- 

IF. If. Temple.-CamcUmx sativa, we think, but must 
have plant in bloom. The Medieago reaches a‘.height 
of 2 feet. The specimen you mention may have been 
shaded, and, in consequence, what is known as 

“ drawn."- Old Rug —'l nssilago Farfara. Grubby. 

—Phacelia sp.- T. Walter.— Oicuria Haasti.- R.U. 

— Rose Billiard et Barre. 


Catalogues received -Dobic and Mason, Man 
Chester.— Select Flowering Bulbs. Geo. Cooling and 

Son, Bath. — A it turn n Bulb and Plant List. -Samson 

and Sons, Kilmarnock .—Fh wer Roots for 1007. - 

Amos Perry, Enfield, Middlesex.— List of Bulbs and 
Tubers .— P. Bernaix fils, Villeurbanne, Lyons, 

France .—Rose List. -T. S. Ware (02). Limited.- 

Catalogue of Hutch. Japanese, and Home Grown 

Bulbs for 1007. -P. Guillot, Chemin de St. Priest, 

Lvon. Monplaisir. France.—Rose List for 1007. 190S. 
__Chas. L. Curtis, Chatteris, Cambridge.—Bulb List 
lor 1007. _ 


LIST OF AWARDS AT THE K.H.S. 
MEETING ON SEPTEMBER 17. 
Floral Committee. 

First-class Certificate. — Viburnum rhytidophyllum, 
Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons, Chelsea. 

Awards of Merit.—Tritonias I^rd Nelson, Lady Hamil¬ 
ton, and King Edmund, Major Petre, Norwich. Dahlias 
(Cactus) Invemia, Rev. A. Bridge, C. E. WilkinB, and 
Dorothy, James Scredwickand Son, St. I/eonards. Dahlia 
Flame, H. Shoetmith, Woking. Dahlia Cynthia, T. S. 
Ware, Feltham. 

Silver-gilt Flora MedaL—Dahlias, Carter Page and Co. 
Silver-gilt Banksian Medals.—Dahlias and Asters, .1. 
Walker. Tritonias, etc, R. Wallace and Co. Dahlias, etc , 
T. S. Ware, Ltd. 

Silver Flora Medals.—Dahlias, Cannell and Son. Carna¬ 
tions, Cutbush and Son. Hardy plants, Amos Pefry. 
Hardy plants, M. Prichard. Clerodendron fallax, Lord 
Salisbury’. Dahlias, Chas. Turner. Greenhouse plants 
and shrubs, J. Veitch and Sons. 

Silver Banksian Medals.—Hardy plants, Frank Brazier. 
Roses, W. and J. Brown. Dahlias and hardy plants, 
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etc., H. B. May and Sons. Dahlias, Wm. West. 

Bronze Flora Medals.—Stove plants and Orchids, W. 
Bull an J Son. Chrysanthemums, W. Wells and Co., Ltd. 
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Silver Banksian Medal.—Collection of Peas, Mr. B. 
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Silver Knightian Medal.—Collection of fruit, Mesfrs. 
Spooner and Sons, Hounslow. 

Silver-gilt Banksian Medal.—Collection of fruit. The 
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Orchid Committks. 

Award of Merit.—Sophro-Laulia Gratrix® magnificum, 
Mr. F. M. Ogilvie. 

Silver Flora Medals. Messrs. Jas. Veitch and Rom, 
Chelsea ; Messrs. Charlesworth and Co., Heaton, Bradford ; 
Messrs. Armstrong and Brown, Tunbridge Wells. 

Bronze Flora Medal.—Messrs. W. Bull and Sons, King’s- 
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,, double dark rose .. 6d. rose .. .. 6*1. 

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, single rose .. -• fid. Eryngium giganteum .. 6*1. 

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brown ., fid. I ,, officinalis rosea .. Pd. 

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pacta .. .. 6d. I „ Boreale .. .. fid. 

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((Dp AMA rUAlinAIAIli 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


No. 1,491. —Yol. XXIX. 


Founded by W. Robinson, Author qf “ The English Flower Garden." 


OCTOBER 5, 1907. 


Acacia, the False, as a 
town tree ,. 425 

African Lily i Agapan- 
thns umhellatun), 
the .. ..410 

Agricultural college .. 428 
Apple-trees, American 
blight on .. .. 421) 

Apple Warner's Kin? 416 
Apple* and Peara to 

name .428 

Apples, maggot in .. 416 
Artichokes, lilobo, mil¬ 
dewed .428 

Azaleas. imported .. 418 
Bean, Early Longpod, 

an.424 

Bean. French, Ever- 
hearing .. .. 424 

Bees.427 

Birds .427 

Black (,'urrant-mite .. 12J 

Campanula planiflura.. 422 
Caterpillar .. 420 

Celery-fly, tho .. .. 424 


Celery-leaves, blight on 420 
Chrysanthemum Horace 
Martin failing.. .. 420 
Chrysanthemum Hjiort 428 
Chrysanthemums .. 420 
Chrysanthemums, notes 

on.420 

Clematis and Rose .. 428 
Climbers for perpendicu¬ 
lar bank.422 

Conservatory .. .. 426 

DinnthusNapoleon 111. 422 
Dutchman's Pipe (Aris- 
toloehia Sipho), the .. 421 
Everlasting flowers for 
winter use, some 410 
Felted Beech Coccus, 

the .420 

Flea-bane (Erigoron) .. 422 

Fruit .413 

Fruit garden .. .. 426 

Carden, archoa in the .. 421 
Garden diary, extracts 

from a.426 

Garden pests and friends 4 20 


INDEX. 


Garden, tho refuse of 

421 

Mulberry jelly 

427 

Pruniog after summer- 


Roses for walla 

and 


the . 

Nicotine poisoning 

427 

pruning . 

<16 

borders .. 


418 

Garden work 

426 

OdontoglosButn crispum 

423 





418 

GentianelU 

4 27 

oleander not blooming 

427 

straying. 

427 

Roses of even growth 


Gladiolus princeps 

421 

Olearia Haasti .. 

428 


410 



417 

(.raiicB in l»ad condition 

416 

Orchid names 

123 


417 




Grevilleas. the .. 

42o 

Orchids. 

423 





421 

Griselinia litt oralis 

42.. 

Outdoor garden .. 

426 

blooming 

41S 


pro- 


Hollyhocks flagging 


Outdoor plants 

421 

Rose-bushes, autumn 



425 

when cut 

427 

Piconies. 

422 


418 


422 

Hydrangeas, colouring 

Indoor plants .. 

428 

Pea. t he Daisy .. 

424 

Rose for wad 

118 



424 

418 

Peach Barrington 

415 

Rose-leaf unhealthy .. 

417 

Sweet Brier hedge 


417 

Ivies. 

425 

Pear for name .. 

128 

Rose - leavei, Orange 


Tomato sauce .. 


421 

Law and custom., 

427 

Pear-leaf blister-mito .. 

420 

fungus on 

418 



424 

Lawn, treatment, of .. 
Lilies of the Valley 

422 

Pears cracked 

416 





4*24 

418 

Peas, Everlasting 

42! 


427 



425 

Lilium candidnni, trails- 


Peas. Sweet, some good 

427 





4 24 

planting. 

422 

Pens, three good 

Pinks, dividing .. 

421 

luDin Show of tha 


Vegetable garden 


424 

Lilium specioautn ros- 

428 

ill 

National 

117 

Violet leaves unhealthy 

42U 

cum after flowering . 

Plant for large pot 

427 

Rose-trees, caterpillars 




422 

Lobelia, double .. 

41D 

Plants and flowers 

417 

on. 

421 


41. 

Magnolia grand illura, 


Plants, liquid-manure 


Roses . 

417 



427 

cutting hack .. 

423 

for. 

426 

Ibises, black spot on .. 

41S 




M e s ij in h r y a n t h e - 


Plants, succulent 

426 





426 

mum flori bund um 

422 

Plums, notes on.. 

115 

Bulmrb. 

118 

Wistaria, soil for 


425 


FRUIT. 


PEACH BARRINGTON. 

This is, undoubtedly, a very fine Peach, both 
for culture under glass and for outdoors, 
where favourable conditions obtain. Curi 
ously, however, this Peaeh varies that is to 
say. it will succeed splendidly in one garden, 
and yet in another it is not at all satisfactory. 
The grow th of the tree is all that can be de¬ 
sired healthy. moderately vigorous, and 
usually free-to flower and set. 1 can recall 
instances where Barrington promised well up 
to the stoning period, when, without any ap¬ 
parent reason, the fruits, when as large as 
Walnuts, will begin to drop. This often con¬ 
tinues until only a very few are left—scarcely 
half an average crop. Nueh a failing cannot 
be otherwise than disappointing, and many 
a debate has been carried on by gardeners 
bearing on the probable cause. There must 
be some constitutional reason for this failing, 
or why should Barrington occupying space 
outside and under glass betray its good name 
and character when, as often happens, other 
kinds succeed? In these gardens Barrington 
shows these failings under every condition of 
culture—in some years certainly more marked 
than in others. This season I have the best 
crop for several years on an open wall, and 
I commenced gathering some fine fruits by 
mid-September. Admitting the several fine 
characteristics of the Peach, I have ascer¬ 
tained the experience of other growers, and 
I have long since learnt tho variable char¬ 
acter of the tree. Everyone, however, admits 
the sterling qualities of the Peach, and even 
when subject to these partial failings does 
not wholly ignore the planting of, at least, 
one tree. I remember one instance of a 
highly successful grower gaining a monopoly 
in prizes with fruits of this Peach in open 
competition. There- is no mistaking its re¬ 
fined quality when presented fully grown and 
highly coloured, this latter being one of its 
pleasing attribute*. But for this tendency 
to cast its fruit prematurely there is no Peach 
I have a higher opinion of, and while* I hesi¬ 
tate to plant under glass for that reason 
alone, 1 certainly should not omit to include 
it in an outdoor selection. Its season follows 
immediately on that of Dyinond, Violet Hative, 
and Bellegarde, and fills a breach between 
these, and Sea Eagle. W&lburton Admirable, 
Nectarine Peach, Albatross, and Desse Tar¬ 
dive among other late varieties. Mr. Black- 
more’s ex[>crience was derived, apparently, 
from open-air trees, unless his district at 
Teddingtou was an unfavourable one. for I 
have no recolLection of reports querying its 
ability to ripen thoroughly. There is, how¬ 
ever, the same coincidence of shyness in bear¬ 
ing. I used to think absence of lime in tho 
component parts of the border was the cause, 
and, acting on this belief, have applied kiln- 
lime freely, but even then the trees failed. 
The tree flowers as freely as any kind, and 

- ’ ' A 


the early period of settingTehv.es'no don lit of 
all in the mind of the infcpoi^eJced .Q |^t 


the partial failure can. I think, be due only 
to some constitutional failing. Wilts. 

Having cultivated this variety for a 
number of years on the open wall. 1 would 
like to add my meed of praise in its favour. 
It is a most excellent Peach, the tree hardy, 
and of good constitution, the fruits coming 
very fine, and in a fine, sunny September as 
this, they are grandly coloured. East j 
Devon. 

Respecting the note on this fine Peach 
in this week’s issue of Gardening, I can tho¬ 
roughly endorse all that is there said in its 
favour. I have always found it to be a 
hardy, vigorous-growing variety, a free crop¬ 
per, fruit large and of handsome appearance, 
flavour excellent, and ripening from the 
second to third week in September on a 
south-west aspect. If well mulched, watered, 
and fed from tho surface, very large speci¬ 
mens can be obtained. It is strange that the 
late Mr. Blackmore should have found it shy 
at Teddington, for, if my recollection serves 
me rightly. Barrington always fruited well in 
the old kitchen garden at Hampton Court 
Palace some thirty nine years ago, the soil 
conditions in both cases, I should imagine, 
being identical. At any rate. I have never 
experienced any difficulty with Barrington, 
and regard it as a valuable variety for mid- 
September use.— Kent. 

-I have in my garden two Peach trees 

on a south wall which are at present covered 
with large, ripe fruit, answering in descrip¬ 
tion to the Peach Barrington, referred to in 
your issue of September 21st, page 3H8. I 
have always thought these trees were Belle 
garde. 1 have already had some dozens of 
Peaches from them, hut there are still be¬ 
tween seventy or eighty on each tree, large, 
ami well coloured. I may add this is the first 
time there lias been a good crop, and the 
trees are about eight years old.— M. 
Schloekher, Great Uoukham, Surrey. 

- In reply to your query, I enclose you 
specimen of Peaeh Barrington, grown by me 
on a wooden fence 6 feet high, facing south 
west. The tree is bearing a heavy t rop, and 
is just now at its best. I do not think that 
the table flavour is very much, but the Peaches 
are largo and handsome. C. A. W EBB, 
Walton-un Tharnc*. 


WASPS AND FRUIT CROPS. 

To the Editor of Gardening Illustrated. 

Sir, —I read the article in your issue of 
September 14th, headed “Wasps and Fruit 
Crops” with interest, and should like to 
mention that, living close to the river ami 
quiet backwaters, which arc favourite haunts 
of the wasp, I have had some experience in 
their destruction. The cyanide of potassium 
is obtainable from the chemist, who will 
probably ask you to sign for it, and also n 
witness. Place a small piece of the chemical 
well into the hole or entrance to the nest, 
and splash a little water on it. Should the 
neat be where water cannot be splashed 


from the river, a long stick or punt-pole is 
ysed, with an old table-spoon tied securely 
on the end, and by this means, the cyanide 
is placed just inside the hole, and by the same 
mean* the water its applied. Just enough 
water is required to saturate it, which in¬ 
stantly discharges deadly fumes, and all tho 
w asps in the nest are dead in a few seconds, 
likewise, those outside fall dead ns they pass 
down the hole to the nest. With care this 
may he done a little before sunset, when 
there is plenty of daylight, so that you can 
see what you are doing, and so make it effec¬ 
tive. 

Some choose the darkness, when all the 
wa«ps are at home, but I have found it diffi¬ 
cult to find the nessts; and if the wasps find 
the ground being walked on, they are apt to 
come out and fly round the lantern, and so 
scare-their would be destroyers that it is not 
always a success; but in tlie daytime they 
are busy carrying in the spoil, and do not 
spare the time to see what you are up to. The 
nest may be dug out next day with safety. 

Abingdon. 


NOTES ON PLUMS. 

The Green Gage is still the best dessert 
Plum, and in most situations deserves a wall. 
The trees should have their roots lifted after 
being planted two or three years to throw 
them into bearing. Except in some very 
favoured spots, it is an uncertain cropper as 
a standard. It succeeds well in pots in a 
cool house. The Transparent Gage also bears 
freely, and the fruits attain a large size in 
puts under glass, though it docs not make a 
handsome tree. When l grew Plums in pots 
largely this was one of the surest bearers. 
Coe’s Golden Drop is, in my opinion, next 
to the Green Gage as a dessert Plum, and it 
is in season when Plums are scarce. This 
also deserves a wall, and rarely fails to bear 
freely. I have often had good crops on pyra¬ 
mid's and standards, but it seems to require 
the warmth of a wall to bring the fruit to tho 
highest state of perfection. This docs well in 
a pot, but the fruits must be thinned and the 
trees somewhat stinted in pot room, as when 
heavily laden it is an easy matter to nourish 
and support the tree with liquid-manure and 
top-dressings. The Jefferson makes a hand 
some dish from a wall, and as a dessert Plum 
no one could do wrong in planting it. It also 
succeeds as a bush or pyramid tree in a pot. 
Early Plums are always in demand. The best 
of these is certainly Rivers’ Prolific, and one 
tree at least should have a place on a wall, 
though this is not otherwise necessary except 
to obtain a few dishes of early fruit. It suc¬ 
ceeds in a pot in the orchard house, and when 
the fruits are of a good size the pots may ho 
plunged out to ripen them if the space in the 
house is required. Kirk-eVt is perhaps tho 
best flavoured Plum, hut to induce it to bear 
freely the shoots must, be jlifte^I every three 
years or so. 

Among cooking Plums, the Victoria still 
holds a distinct lead. Its great fault is that it 







416 


GARDENING ILL USTILl TED. 


Octoder 5, 1907 


bears too freely in a good season, ns is the 
ease this year. To thin the fruit on large or 
even moderately sized trees is in many places 
impossible, but support might be given m the 
shape of top-dressings and liquid-manure 
when the trees are heavily cropped. The 
fruit of this tree may, if selected from the 
finest and best ripened, be useful as dessert. 
Diamond is another handsome, free-bearing 
Plum, too free, in fact, in a good season, and, 
like the Victoria, should have some help given 
to it, but it is of no use except for cooking. 
White Magnum Bonum, or Egg Plum, as it is 
often called, is a valuable Plum for preserv¬ 
ing, and generally bears well ns a standard. 
Even old trees, as long as life remains, bear 
very freely. Gisborne’s is not much to look 
at, but for cooking and cropping there are 
few to surpass it. Pond’s Seedling succeeds 
in pretty well every position, does well ns a 
standard, is extra fine on a wall, and may be 
planted on the north side with a certninty of 
success. The Early Orleans is too well known 
to require any mention here. Its right place 
is as a standard in the orchard. I have tried 
this on a wall, thinking the early fruit would 
pay for the space, but the tree would not sub¬ 
mit to training, and was removed. It would 
be unwise to plant even a 6mall collection of 
Plums without including Damsons, the Far- 
leigh Prolific being the best for general plant-, 
ing. This makes a good shelter tree for plant¬ 
ing in double rows on the windward side of 
Apple, Pear, or Cherry plantations. If 
bought in quantity the trees can be bad very 
cheaply, and, besides affording much needed 
shelter, heavy crops of fruit will be gathered. 


MAGGOT IN APPLES. 

Can you recommend a remedy for maggot in Apples 
occasioning the fall of fruit almost to the entire 
stripping of the trees? I have a small garden in 
which are a few trees, consisting of a Russet, a 
Codlin, and another one or two of another class. 
Last year the fruits were, almost for the first time, 
badly alHictcd with maggot, and fell before they were 
half ripe. In the late autumn I had the trunks and 
lower branches well lime-washed with plain lime. 
This spring I had a fine display of blossom, which 
developed into a splendid crop of fruit, and which, 
during the early summer months, looked as if they 
meant to stay on and mature, but during the last 
month or five weeks they have been strewing thickly 
the ground again, each fruit bored with a small hole 
and bearing the evidences of decay in the centre, 
so that what looked like an encouraging crop of fruit 
at one time must prove n failure.—C. T. Lincoln. 

[There is no insect injurious to Apples with 
which growers are more familiar than the 
larva or grub of the Codlin-mofch (Carpocapsa 
pomonella). It lias, probably, been a trouble 
to Apples from time immemorial. The moth, 
the depositor of the eggs from which the 
maggots come, is a very pretty little insect, 
about 2 inch broad. It is on the wing chiefly 
during May and June, and then deposits its 
eggs singly in the eyes, or “snuffs,” of the 
tiny young Apples. The moth seems specially 
to prefer tender-skinned varieties of the 
Codlin type, hence its name, but, unfor¬ 
tunately, it frequently treats nil varieties 
alike. In any case, the eye of the Apple germ 
is selected for depositing the egg, not only 
because it offers a safe nest, but also because 
once the maggot is hatched it finds necess to 
tho interior of the fruit more easily there 
than through the rind. Once within the 
Apple, it eats its way through pulp to the 
pips, or seeds, devouring these, and by that 
time the fruit becomes detached and falls to 
tin* ground. Now ? , if these fruits be allowed 
to lie but a brief time, the maggot escapes, 
makes its way to the tree-stem, crawls up it, 
and ensconces itself in tiny crevices in the 
bark, spins its cocoon, and lies dormant all 
the winter. In the spring it again comes 
forth a full-blown moth, to again pursue its 
mission of propagation and of injury. Some 
persons advise spraying the trees with a 
moderately weak solution of Paris green so 
soon as the fruits are formed, and once a 
fortnight, till the end of June. Still, the 
efficacy of that treatment depends largely on 
a portion of the arsenic settling in the eye 
of the fruit and poisoning the maggot the 
moment it begins to feed. Heavy rains soon 
wash the spraying off. Dealing with these 
poisonous sprayings needs great care, and 
should hardly be undertaken by others than 
men well versed in their preparation and use. 

Then others advis^ tying round the stems 
pieces of coarse ®cking>v threefour times 

thick, and ti^d <Vi£<aln7ihe Wn|Ae_ of each 


piece tightly round the tree. These may be 
from 18 inches to 120 inches from the ground, 
and be from 10 inches to 12 inches deep. 
Into these sack folds the maggots crawl and 
hvbernate. They can be examined occasion¬ 
ally and cleansed of the insects. Failing 
pieces of sacking, haybands may be wound 
several times round the tree-stems nnd tied. 
These may be removed and burnt once a fort¬ 
night after Apples begin to fall. Of course, 
the Paris green spraying, when it is effective, 
kills the maggot at the outset, but no spray¬ 
ing can assure that every fruit in which an 
egg is deposited gets its share of the poison. 
The banding of tlie tree-stems only traps the 
insects after they have destroyed the Apples, 
and at least stops their propagation for 
another year. 

Now, it is found that this maggot is most 
harmful to trees in Grass orchards, the Grass 
proving to be excellent harbour for them. 
Also in such orchards all sorts of Apple pests 
are more prevalent than where the trees are 
kept well pruned and the soil is well cutivated 
and cleaned. The best course to take now is 
to havo all fallen fruits collected at once, or 
as fast as they fall, so as to secure the mag¬ 
gots in them. In the winter have the stems 
of the trees and the branches scrubbed, so as 
to remove all rough bark ; then make up a 
thick wash of lime-white, with a little clay in 
it, to give it body, and with a brush thickly 
coat the stems all over, and as high up into 
the trees as can be reached. That will so 
coat in the insects, if any be harbouring in 
the bark, that if moths are formed they will 
not be able to escape, 't hat is a cheap and 
simpLe way of dealing with the trees. If the 
bark be first scraped, as advised, have all the 
scrapings and the soil an inch or two deep 
over the roots scraped off. wheeled away, and 
buried deeply, putting fresh soil from the vege¬ 
table quarters iq its place. Some growers 
advise spraying the trees in the winter twice, 
at intervals of a month, with the caustic 
soda solution, but even that, very efficacious 
as it is in destroying insect life exposed, also 
Moss or Lichen growths on the bark, may not 
reach the cocoon in which the maggot has 
ensconced itself. As maggotty Apples fall 
most at night, they should be collected early 
in the morning. In Grass orchards it is well 
to allow pigs to run, to devour the fruits as 
fast as they fall. 

We have dealt thus lengthily with your 
querv, because the answer is one which can 
hardly fail to have interest for many renders 
having Apple-trees similarly situated to your¬ 
self. The information thus so fully given 
should be carefully preserved, and, if rigidly 
acted upon, cannot fail to have beneficial 
results.] 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Pears cracked —Can you kindly inform me what 
makes my Pears go like enclosed? A large number 
do so. The soil is dry and sandy, the orchard is 
regularly cultivated between rows, and trees have 
been “clayed ’’ and manured fairly often. Apples do 
well, as a rule; Pears very badly, though they fruit 
freely.—B. Spragoe. 

[Your Pears have been attacked by the fun¬ 
gus (Cladosporium dendritieum) which causes 
cracking of the skins and black spots on the 
fruits, as in the ease of those Pears you 
send. The fault lies at the roots. You 
ought to open a trench at about 3 feet from 
the stem, cutting off all the roots. Then 
grub under the tree with a broad chisel, so 
as to sever all the roots that incline to go 
downward. Refill the trench with fresh 
loam, then remove several inches of top soil 
over the roots, replacing this with fresh, to 
which have been added bone-meal and wood- 
ashes, mulching the whole with rotten horse- 
manure. When this has been done, well 
syringe the tree with the caustic alkali solu¬ 
tion.] 

Grapes in bad condition -1 shall be obliged 
for information respecting my Vines. In one vinery 
the bunches of Grapes are ridiculously small and 
sour, in the other the bundles are colouring before 
they are half crown or developed. The roots are all 
outside, and plenty of manure is given. Would a 
chill produce this result? I think my gardener 
often overcrops the Vines. What is the number of 
bunches that should be allowed to young rods, 
which are replacing the older ones on a Vine?— 
Little Chang. 

[As the Grapes in the first case arc email 
and sour, it looks as if they are troubled 
with the malady known as shanking. This 
complaint is brought about from various 


causes, chief of which are over-cropping, 
neglect in keeping sublaterals regularly 
stopped, and then removing a quantity of 
young grow th at one time, through the roots 
having gone down into the cold subsoil, and 
as a result of the border being in a sour, 
inert condition. The remedy in the two lat¬ 
ter cases is the same—viz., lifting and lay¬ 
ing the roots out afresh in a new and pro¬ 
perly constructed border. In case the base 
of the border is at all damp, put in a 4-inch 
layer of concrete as soon as the old soil is 
cleared out. This will both keep the border 
warm and dry and prevent the roots from 
penetrating the subsoil in future. In the 
former case the remedy is plainly obvious. 
As regarde the second query, it is difficult to 
assign a reason for the Grapes colouring 
when only half-grown, in the absence of de¬ 
tails as to cultural management. It cer¬ 
tainly is not the result of a chill, but it may 
bo owing to the border being too dry or 
through its being worn out or lacking the 
proper constituents suited to the needs of tho 
Vine. This premature colouring may also be 
owing to lose of foliage, following a bad 
attack of red-spider. Over cropping would 
tend to retard colouring, and not hasten the 
process. The weight, of Grapes a fully estab¬ 
lished healthy Vine is capable of bringing to 
perfection is from £ lb. to 1 lb. per foot run 
of rod, but this must, of course, be accom¬ 
panied with the best cultural methods. Had 
you supplied us with some sort of informa¬ 
tion respecting the management of your 
Vines, we might then have Dcen able to have 
given a definite opinion as to their unsatis¬ 
factory condition.] 

Pruning after summer pruning —As I am 

only a novice at fruit-culture, would you please tell 
me what to do when, after having pruned Apple 
and Pear-trees in July, fresh shoots start just be¬ 
side the cuts? Ought I to leave this new shoot or 
prune it to two leaves next winter? llow are 
Plum, Cherry, and Green Gage-trees pruned?—J. C. 
Walsh. 

[Having summer pruned your fruit-trees 
so early as July, it was inevitable that a 
6econd shoot growth should follow from the 
foremost bud on the pruned shoot. The 
usual rule in all such cases is to pinch that 
second shoot to two leaves, and thus let it 
remain until the leaves have fallen. Then, 
in the winter, each of the first-pruned shoots, 
not the second ones, should bo cut hard back 
to two buds only. In doing that, of course, 
the second grow th shoot is cut away with it. 
Of those two buds thus left on the spur, both 
may develop during the following year into 
fruit-buds, or one only may do so, and the 
other become a wood-bud. All depends on 
how far the change from wood-bud to fruit- 
bud has taken place. This bard pruning in 
the winter is needful to keep the spurs close 
to main branches. In any case, some wood 
shoots will certainly break out from the 
branches, and these should be treated as 
advised each year. It seems difficult to find 
gardeners practising any one general rule 
with regard to summer pruning. Some cut 
back summer shoots early, as you did, in the 
month of July, to about four or five leaves; 
some, just twist the point of the shoot, and 
let it hang, as then no second grow th follows; 
but it has a very untidy appearance. Others 
prefer to wait till the middle or third week 
in August, by which time the wood has be¬ 
come harder, before summer-pruning. Each 
form of pruning is claimed to be successful. 
You may, in any case, make experiments 
with each, and note results. But, should 
summer-pruning lead to the formation of 
too many fruit spurs, then is it easy, with a 
knife, to thin them out. Again, should trees 
thus treated become, as it were, stunted, they 
can be helped to make stronger root action 
and wood-growth by liberal manure top- 
dressings. The methods of pruning for 
stone-fruits are about the same, but some 
variation is found when trees are flat- 
trained on walls, or whether grown as 
bushes or standards in the open ground.] 

Warner's King Anple -For cooking there arc 
tew to surpass this well-known variety. I find it suc¬ 
ceeds remarkably well as a spreading bush or pyra¬ 
mid. It makes very strong growtli with exception¬ 
ally large foliage, nnd should only bo slightly pruned. 
It should be kept thin in the centre, so that light 
and air can penetrate right through, when its large 
fruits will set in clusters of three or four all over the 
tree. On good soil, if the trees arc not overcropped, 
the fruits will average dose on hulf a pound each.— 

a iin a i^iii 


OcTOBfin 5, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


417 



PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 


ROSES. 


ROSA MACRANTHA. 

The origin of this beautiful single Rose is 
very obscure ; but Rose-growers are agreed 
that it must be a hybrid of R. gallioa. It 
has the stiff, sturdy growth of this old- 
fashioned group. Unquestionably it is one 
of the most beautiful of single Roses, yield 
ing large quantities of blush-white blossoms, 
richly endowed with golden stamens. R. 
inacrantha is an excellent variety to grow for 
cutting, and has on many occasions enabled 
the decorator to win chief honours at various 
flower-shows. With the advent of newer 
sorts, there is now a rivalry between this 
Rose and Jersey Beauty, Una, sinica Ane¬ 
mone, and others; but it still remains a 
favourite sort for the above-named purpose. 


fine clambering Rose for old tree-stump or 
pillar. Then there is a very delightful new 
sort named Mrs. O. G. Ocpen. It is a 
large, semi-double flower, and its vigour is 
all that can be desired. Anyone wishing to 
have a fine decorative 6hrub could not do 
better than plant this Rose, even as a shrub, 
as one would a Lilac or Syringa-bush. Give 
plenty of space in a well-prepared position, 
and allow the bush to grow almost natu¬ 
rally. If single summer Roses are admired, 
some fine, showy companions to R. macran- 
tha would be : Una, a glorious hybrid Brier, 
with buds like Tea Roses; the ever popular 
Carmine Pillar; the newer and similar Mor- 
genroth, which flowers later and more con¬ 
tinuously; R. sinica Anemone, the queen of 
all single Roses; Hebe’s Lip, the old red 
damask, and its striped form, Rosa Mundi, 
a Rose so often erroneously sold for York and 
Lancaster ; R. altaica, and the ever-popular 
Penzance Briers. 

A very beautiful semi-double satin-pink 
Rose is Lady Ardilaun, with huge flowers and 


Flowering shoot of Rosa maerantha. From a photograph in Mr. Chambers’ garden at Haslemere. 


R. maerantha blossoms about the middle of 
June, but its flowering season may be pro¬ 
longed if some plants are grown in a northern 
aspect, where it blossoms beautifully, 
whether planted upon rather low walls or 
grown as pillars or single bushes, or as a 
hedge. In large gardens these summer- 
flowering Roses can be freely planted, but in 
the small garden they should not, be overdone 
to the exclusion of the more perpetual sorts, 
which may be obtained in the Tea scented 
and Hybrid Tea groups, so that, although 
justly praising the beautiful Rose under 
notice, 1 would recommend, if a single Rose 
is desired, that one or more of the exquisite 
Irish singles be planted, especially the de¬ 
lightful Irish Elegance and Irish Beauty. R. 
maerantha has of late years given us some 
lovely offspring, three or four at least, and 
perhaps there are more in the country. 

The following three have been raised from 
R. maerantha—namely. Lady Sarah Wilson, 
semi-double creamy blush flowers; Lady 
White, semi-double whii 
Curzon, jingle, pink. 


huge petals, and with 
habit. Then we have two very charming 
novelties that are likely to be immensely 
popular. I refer to Lina Schmidt Michel 
and Sarah Bernhardt. This latter, as seen 
under glass, has blossoms larger than those of 
Noella Nabonnand, and of the glorious colour 
of Duke of Edinburgh. Rosa. t 


iitth«4inted pink ;.Lady 
as 4 a 


Roses of even growth for a bed (Winter, 

Stockport).—The following selection is approximately 
even in growth, and would make an excellent bed, 
well varied in colour: Augustine Ouinoisseau, Duke 
of Wellington, Earl of Pembroke, La France, Louis 
Van Houtte, Antoine Rivoire. George Laing Paul, 
Camoen-s, l>r. J. Campbell Hall, Furben Konigin, 
Joseph Hill, Konigin Carola, Lady Battersea, Liberty, 
Mine. Edmt*e Metz, Mme. Jules (Jrojez, Mme. Leon 
Pain, Paul Led6 and Mrs. David McKee. 

Rose-leaf unhealthy (J. II. Wilson ).—Your 
Rose-leaf has been attacked by a fungus known as 
Aetinonema rosae or Rose-leaf black blotch. The 
cause of the fungus is not known. The best remedy 
is deep cultivation and spraying with diluted cop¬ 
per sulphate. If you have all the foliage picked olf 
and burnt this will lessen the trouble, then next 
season spray your Rases with Bordeaux mixture in 
May and again in July. 


THE AUTUMN SHOW OF THE 
NATIONAL ROSE SOCIETY. 

The National Rose Society is to be con¬ 
gratulated upon the success of its autumn 
show', which was held on September 24th. 
In the opinion of many, it was the best 
autumn Rose show ever held. Magnificent 
blooms were shown, the premier honours fall¬ 
ing to the Scotch growers, who, owing to the 
lateness of the season, are able to cut from 
their maiden or one-year-old plants. 

In the nurserymen’s class for thirty-six 
blooms, Messrs. Cocker and Sons, of Aber¬ 
deen, were first with splendid blooms—a 
really superb lot; second, Messrs. Adams 
and Cragmile, Aberdeen ; third, Messrs. 
Croall, of Dundee. 

For thirty six varieties, not less than three 
trusses of each, Messrs. F. Cant and Co., of 
Colchester, were first, and they had magnifi¬ 
cent bunches of Melanie Sonpert and Irish 
Elegance. 

A very beautiful group wag that made by 
Messrs. Paul and Son, of Ches- 
hunt, which obtained for them 
the gold medal. Messrs. Hob¬ 
bies, of East Dereham. also ob¬ 
tained a gold medal for a splen¬ 
did group consisting of bunches 
of all the leading garden Roses. 
The group of Rose fruits put up 
by Messrs. Paul and Son, "of 
Cheshunt, was much admired, 
and contained a representative 
collection of Roses that produce 
handsome fruit. 

The Tea Roses in all sections 
w'ere remarkable for their finish 
and size, blossoms of such as 
Souvenir de Pierre Notting be¬ 
ing much finer than were seen 
at the summer show'. Roses that 
obtained silver medals for indi¬ 
vidual specimens very strangely 
went to old varieties in the nur¬ 
serymen’s section, Messrs. Croall 
taking one for the best H.P. with 
John Stuart Mill, Messrs. 
Cocker for the best H.T. with 
La France de ’89, and Messrs. 
Jefferies for best Tea with Mme. 
Lambard. In the amateurs’ sec¬ 
tion Mr. Shackle received a 
medal for best H.P. with Frau 
Karl Drusehki, Mr. Orpen for 
best H.T. with Bessie Brown, 
and Mr. Boswell for best Tea 
with a lovely bloom of Manian 
Coehet. 

A few r special Roses noted 
were Princess Mestchersky; 
J. B. Clark, good in colour, but 
small, and Melanie Soupert, a 
fine garden Rose, as it is also 
for show. E. Veyrat Hermanos, 
C. J. Grahame, Mine. Constant 
Soupert, Souvenir de Pierre 
Notting, and Hugh Dickson 
were also good. 

An interesting feature of this 
fine show was the new Roses, a 
gold medal being awarded to 
Mess^. A. Dickson and Sons for 
Avoca, a glorious flower of the 
nice, even, dwarf j Liberty type, but larger and better. This 
same firm also exhibited Mrs. Franklin Den¬ 
nison, evidently a Kaiserin Augusta seedling 
of old gold shadings, and a beautiful unnamed 
seedling of the same tribe; Conway Jones is 
a flower after the style of Hugh Dickson, and 
will certainly become popular, as we are sadly 
in want of good crimsons. Harry Kirk is fine, 
like a golden Mrs. David McKee, and William 
Shean was, as usual, immense in petal. 
Elisabeth Barnes is a Rose in the way of Mme. 
Abel Chatenay. Dorothy Page Roberts is 
after the style of KiHarney, with gold shad¬ 
ing. Countess of Gosford and Betty are both 
lovely in colour, but too thin. 

The tables arranged by ladies were a very 
interesting feature, the first prize being given 
for a lovely arrangement made up chiefly with 
Irish Elegance. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Sweet Brier hedge. —I Jiuve a Sweet Brier 
hedge. A certain amount died last year. I cut away 
all dead wood and aUo wluit did not look promising 
last autumn about October. This year, vliere 1 cut, 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 






418 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Oct.jber 5, 1907 


tho hushes look worse. Will yon kindly tell me if 1 
out out at the wrong time of year, ami, if so, in what 
month ought I to cut? What 1 proposed doing this 
autumn was to cut down to the ground all stems 
that looked bad.—E. G. Mansel. 

[Cutting back the growths in October would 
cause no injury to your hedge, as by that 
time the plants have almost finished active 
growth. As you say those plants cut back 
look worse this year, we should say there is 
some fault at the root. Probably, when the 
hedge was planted, the soil was only dug a 
spade deep, whereas it should have been 
trenched. Had this been done, the pruning 
back would have served to encourage extra 
vigorous growth. You do not say how long 
this hedge has been planted, but if only three 
or four years ago, we should he disposed to 
replant it in November, taking oare to trench 
the ground well, and incorporate manure and 
gritty material, if very heavy, replanting the 
Briers immediately. Of course, you would 
replace any unhealthy llriers with healthy 
ones. Do not prune this coming spring, hut 
the following year cut back to about. 1 foot 
from the grtumd. After this, you should 
have a perfect hedge.] 

Orange fungus on Rose-leaves. —The aerom- 
punyitiK leaves are from a plant of Marie Baumann, 
received last autumn and planted in a new bed. 
Within the last three days, which have been very 
close after continued cold and wet, it is apparently 
dying. No other plants in the same bed arc similarly 
affected, though this and several others have been 
mildewed, and have been sprayed with XL All once 
or twice. What is wrong, and what should he done? 
— M. K. 

[The plant of Marie Baumann that is appa¬ 
rently dying lias a had attack of Orange fun¬ 
gus, or red rust. Many Rose-growers pay no 
hoed to this fungus, as it usually appears 
more or lees in every garden towards the 
autumn. You will find the wood of the 
plant is unaffected. Gather up the foliage 
and burn it. Next season spray early with 
Bordeaux mixture before the fungus is seen.] 

Black spot on Roses - 1 would he much obliged 
it you would say what causes the canker on my 
Roses? I scud some leaves and wood as an example. 
The wood on some trees was so bad 1 could not get 
any buds to propagate. The garden is walled, faces 
south, and the soil is lime. The garden is on the top 
of a hill. 300 feet elevation, and a white lime-stone 
all round, hut 1 never found the stone in the garden, 
though l have gone down 3 feet occasionally. It is 
the tender Roses, such as Mine. Larnbard, Marie Van 
lloutte, etc., that suffer so much. Isaac 1‘erricrc, 
Clieshnnt Hybrid, Maltnaison, and that class do not 
exhibit much sign of the canker.—W. J. II. Tyrrell. 

[There are few gardens that have not been 
visited with this troublesome fungoid growth 
this year, and it is probably due to an excess 
of atmospheric moisture and a cold night 
temperature. We think you should remove 
your plants this autumn, giving them, if pos¬ 
sible, :l new position or a little fresh soil 
about their roots when replanting. Then, in 
the spring, cut the growths back hard. Any 
of the old surface soil be careful to destroy, 
if possible, by fire. A spraying next season, 
before the disease shows itself, with Bordeaux 
mixture would allay the attack, if it did not 
actually stop it. All primings and dead 
foliage should he burnt.] 

Autumn priming of Rose bushes Will you 

kindly tell me if I may cut. hack (not to pruning 
distance) the long shoots my Rose-bushes have made 
this season? My garden is very small. Some of tlie 
shoots of my Roses arc 5 feet lung. All arc on own 
roots, and are a mixed lot. — 11.*M. It. 


[Yes; you can shorten back the growths 
now to about 3 feet. It will do no harm. 
This would, of course, prevent you from peg¬ 
ging down the Roses next spring, but, per¬ 
haps, you are not anxious to do this. In a 
small garden such as yours it would have been 
far better if you had planted some of the 
beautiful Hybrid Teas of neat, compact 
growth, as then you would have had just now 
a beautiful display of blossom instead oT these 
straggling, unruly growths.] 


Roses for London suburb I am anxious to 
replace several of my Rases this autumn, and should 
he obliged if you could tell me of some good ones 
which would be hardy in a London suburb on clay 
sod? My standards of Gruss an Teplitz. Mrs. Allen 
Chandler, and Francksca Kruger arc doing fairly 
well. Mainnn Coehet has failed. Carmine Pillar 
came well into leaf and bud, and then was shrivelled 
up by the cutting winds. Is it likely to do better 
another year?—(J. G. 


[If your soil had been deeply dug. and the 
plants were healthy, such sorts as Gruss an 
Teplitz and Mrs. A. Chandler should have 
done very well in a season like the present. 


Mnman Coehet is quite : 


Dig 




suitable f 

•gle 


for your 


district. Before planting others this autumn, 
have your clayey soil trenched, keeping the 
clay subsoil at the bottom, but have it broken 
up and some burnt clay, ashes, or strawy 
manure mingLed with the bottom spit, to keep 
it open. Do this as early as possible, and 
about three weeks afterwards plant any of 
the following:—Conrad F. Mever, Caroline 
Testout, Clio, John Hopper, Gloire Lyon- 
naise, Mine. Isaac Perriere, Heinrich 
Schultheis, Magna Charta, Rev. Alan 
Cheales, Margaret Dickson, Paul Neyron, 
Ulrich Brunner, Frau Karl Druschki, Ards 
Pillar, Mrs. Paul. Mmo. Alfred Carriere, 
Cheshunt Hybrid, Kaiserin Friedrich. Mons. 
Desir, Francois Crousse, Marie d’Orleans, 
Grate Darling, Viscountess Folkestone, Lady 
Waterlow. Any of these will make good 
standards ; they will also make good, free 
hushes. The Carmine Pillar should grow 
welL next season iT the shoots are now plump 
and green. If still shrivelled, discard it for 
a healthy specimen.] 

Roses for wall.—I had built last autumn a new 
stone wall, running north to south, about 3ii feet 
long and b fed high. I now think of fixing nunc 
trellis-work, to run the whole length, and to he 
3 feet or 4 feet above the top, and planting some 
good climbing (hardy) Tea or 11.T. Roses. They 
would he rather exposed to north and east, but 
sheltered from west and north-west winds. Would 
you kindly advise me how many, and the host varie¬ 
ties?—S omerset. 

[For your rather exposed wall, which faces 
north, wo should recommend the following : — 
Francois Crousse, Lady Waterlow, Mine. 
Hector Leuilliot, Climbing Caroline Testout, 
Climbing Captain Christy, and Climbing La 
France. Plant them about 5 feet apart in a 
deeply-dug border.] 

Banksian Rose not blooming -What, is the 
reason that a Banksian Rose, on a house wall well 
protected, facing south-west, has not shown any sign 
of bloom since it was planted two years ago? It has 
made luxuriant growth, and has never been cut in any 
way.—L. P. S. 

[Your Banksian Rose is evidently over¬ 
crowded. You should cut out during the 
summer—say. in June—all the soft, sappy 
shoots, and thin those that remain, spread¬ 
ing them out as much as you can to admit 
sun and air. Do not cut back the shoots that 
you leave only just tip them. They will 
make small lateral growths, which, if 
shortened next spring to three or four eyes, 
will flower. The Banksian Rose requires a 
warm wall and a well drained border, with 
two or three years’ growth, to see it at its 
best.] 

Roses for walls and borders (Colchester). 
—As you desire the flowering period of the 
Roses you plant to extend as long as possible, 
we can recommend the following for the 
positions named. We agree with you that it 
would be best to plant the Roses upon some 
supports placed a foot or so away from the 
wall, as even at this distance air has a better 
opportunity of circulating among the growths. 
For the south wall, which is very hot, we 
would suggest Climbing Niphetos, Climbing 
Kaiserin Augusta Victoria. Bouquet d’Or, or 
Francois Crousse. For the sheltered east 
wall: Mme. Alfred Carriere, Cheshunt Hy¬ 
brid. Mine. Berard, Longworth Rambler, 
Alister Stella Gray, Conrad F. Moyer, or 
Aimee Vibert. For the west border for peg¬ 
ging down free growing sorts from the Hy¬ 
brid Teas, Chinese, and Tea-scented groups, 
such as Mme. Abel Chatenav, Gruss an Tep¬ 
litz, W. A. Richardson, Enchantress. Jean 
Bach Sisley, La Tosca, Corallina, Caroline 
Testout. Richmond, Grace Darling, Comtesse 
de Cayla, Gustave Regis, Flpribunda, etc. 

Mildew on Roses (It. D. and K. M. Jiirrh). 

Your Roses have been attacked bv mildew. 
You can do little now, as the season is so far 
advanced, but next spring, whenever yon see 
any signs of the pest, syringe with a mix¬ 
ture of quicklime and sulphur. Mix it in 
this wav : Place a little unslaked lime in n 
pail, add sufficient wnter to slake it, and, 
while hot, drop some flowers of sulphur into 
it. Before it settles, fill up the pail with 
water, and dilute the liquor after the whole 
has settled down. Another remedy is to mix 
a quarter of an ounce of sulphide of potas¬ 
sium in a gallon of water and syringe the 
plants with the mixture. (2) Apply to Messrs. 
\V. Paul and Son. Waltham Cross, X., who 
publish a cheap book on the Rose. 


INDOOR PLANTS. 

IMPORTED AZALEAS. 

These figure largely at the various auction 
sales held in the autumn and early winter 
months, large consignments reaching here 
from Belgium to be disposed of in this way. 
As the roots of the Azalea are very delicate, 
and quickly susceptible to injury if allowed 
to become dry, it is advisable, previous to 
purchasing, to see the state of the roots, and 
if too much parched up, one can hardly hope 
that the whole of them will prove satis- 
factory. In any case they should, as soon 
as possible after receipt, be carefully exa 
mined, and the dry ones thoroughly watered 
by soaking them in a tub of water, as by this 
means tho moisture percolates through the 
entire ball. Then they should be stood some¬ 
where to drain before potting, as no plant 
should be potted with a soddened hall of 
earth, the result being in rqnny eases as bad 
as if the soil were too dry. Good sandy 
peat, or an admixture of leaf-mould with it. 
is very suitable for these Azaleas, and the 
size of the pots used will, of course, depend 
upon the plants; but in any case good drain¬ 
age is essential. Many look upon an Azalea 
as a plant that cannot be potted too firmly, 
and one for which it is absolutely necessary 
to press the soil down ns tightly as possible. 
Such exertion, however, is really not re¬ 
quired, for the plants will succeed equally 
well provided they are potted moderately firm 
an 1 care taken that no cavities between the 
ball of earth and the side of the pot are 
allowed to exist. If these imported plants 
(which have grown so freely) arc examined, 
it will he seen that the soil in which they 
root so well is by no means particularly firm, 
but is rather of a soft, spongy texture. After 
potting, it is advisable to keep them rather 
close and shaded from the full rays of tho 
sun for a few days, till the roots are again 
active. Occasional syringings will also 
greatly assist towards keeping the foliag* 
fresh till the plants recover from the check of 
removal. In ten days or a fortnight, how¬ 
ever, it will be no longer necessary to pro¬ 
tect them in this manner, and they may 
then be subjected to the same exposure as 
established plants. Complaints are often 
made that imported Azaleas lose so many 
of their leaves, but if treated in this way 
the results will be far more satisfactory than 
if potted and fully exposed at once. 


Lilies of the Valley. —Few plants give us 
sweeter blossoms than does the Lily of the 
Valley. The* flowers are valued in the sum¬ 
mer when culled from the open air. but they 
are even more precious when they open in 
the greenhouse in the early spring day:;. 
Some have tried Forcing home-grown clumps, 
only to find that leaves for the most part 
are the outcome of their trouble; but this is 
not because the crowns will not stand forcing, 
but may be traced to the fact that they have 
not been specially grown on with that end in 
view. To take up a clump whose roots have 
become entangled is hardly likely to result in 
anything satisfactory; but if those who have 
these Lilies under cultivation will take the 
trouble, after the foliage has died down, to 
lift them and sort- out the best crowns, plant¬ 
ing these in a bed made up of loam, leaf- 
soil, and half rotted manure, giving each 
crown plenty of room, such will be right for 
lifting and forcing another year. In the 
absence of good home-grown crowns, im¬ 
ported crowns should lie secured if early 
blooms are desired next spring. These may 
be potted at once, and placed in cold frames 
for some weeks at least, until roots have be¬ 
come established, or—and 1 think this is 
much the beet way—crowns should be planted 
in boxes in Cocoa-nut-fibre, and. after growth 
has commenced, they can then be brought 
into heat., and potted off when near their 
blooming time, as they can be easily removed 
from the light fibre, without any ill effect, 
and placed in pots. By this means one may 
get pots of bloom opening simultaneously, 
which is not always the case when the crowns 
arc potted from the first. The idea that 
only imported crowns are worth growing is a 
mistake. It is not because the English 
crowns are not suitable, so much asjhat they 

niVEKSITY OmLLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



October 5, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


419 



are not prepared ; but, treated on the lines 
indicated, and allowed to remain in a bed of 
good soil for a season or so, fat crowns will 
result, and it is from these that one may 
with certainty obtain spikes of sweetly- 
scented bells, equal to any imported produce. 
—Leahlrst. 


THE AFRICAN LILY (AGAPANTHUS 
UMBELLATUS). 

This, though old-fashioned, is an excellent 
plant; by some, however, it is held in little 
estimation, simply because it is easily man¬ 
aged. Tt will succeed in any kind of soil, 
and will bear neglect, through inattention to 
watering, better than most plants ; it will also 
do with less pot room than many plants. The 
excellent habit of its curved, drooping leaves 
which, when well grown, almost cover the 
pots in which it is placed, constitute it one 
of the best for standing about door porches, 
on terraces, or by the side of walks, where 
the large umbels of blue flowers it forms are 
seen to advantage. They are likewise very 


useful for rutting, lasting well in that state, I 
ami affording a colour not over plentiful. It 
is also equally at home in the greenhouse. 
As soon ns the flowering is over, when it is | 
required to be increased, the plants should be 
turned out of the pots, the roots (which are 
usually very much interlaced) disentangled, 
and the crowns divided ; if the roots be much 
matted, they can be separated with the least, 
injury by plunging the hall in a vessel of 
water and working the whole of the soil out 
with the fingers. If two or more crowns be 
retained to each piece divided, they may Ik* 
put into 8-inch or 9-inch pots. Grow them in 
ordinary loam, to which add enough sand, 
and ram the soil firmly in the pots, which 
should he well drained, as they will do with 
less shifting than most plants. It will with¬ 
stand the winter in a few favoured southern 
and western gardens, but even in these it 
would thrive better and flower more freely if 
housed for the winter. In any shed, cellar, 
or room where the severe frost can be kept 
from it, it will be safe. 

Varieties. - The commonest variety is A. ) 

Digitized by GCb glC 


umbellatus. There is a form of it named 
maxim us, which is larger in all its parts than I 
the type, and a truly noble kind. A. umbel¬ 
latus Mooreanus (a head of bloom of which 
we figure to-day) is a very dwarf kind, with 
narrow, rather erect, leaves, and heads of 
deep violet-blue flowers. It is said to be 
hardier than any other kind. 

White - flowered kinds. -- Agapantlnis j 
umbellatus eandidus is a white variety of the ' 
type and evergreen, but the finest kind is the i 
white form of Agapanthus umbellatus maxi- | 
mus, which has a tall scape and a head of 
the purest white flowers. The white variety , 
ought to be grown as extensively as the type, | 
for, notwithstanding the many plants in 
bloom during the summer, white flowers are I 
not readily obtainable. The pure white * 
blooms come in most useful for cutting and 
making up into bouquets, button-holes, and I 
the like. 

What a grand old plant the African 
Lily is! To see it at its best, it needs 
to be grown in the largest sized pots, or 
tubs, and potted in good, stiff, loamy soil, 


so that the large, fleshy roots may find plenty 
of sustenance. When once established, it 
will stand for several years without repotting. 
Its principal needs are plenty of water in 
summer and an occasional dose of liquid- 
manure. 1 lately saw some very fine speci¬ 
mens standing by the edge of an ornamental 
fountain, and the tall, stately flower-heads 
were very effective.—J. G., Gosport. 


Double Lobelia (■/. Brown ).—You may lift a few 
plants at once, and, after having cut oil all the 
flowers, pot them aiul stand them in a frame, well 
shading it until they are established. Keep them 
<lnring the winter on a shelf clone to the glass in 
your greenhouse, which you say is heated. It would 
have been far better to have reserved a few and 
potted them into 48's when you were planting out, 
picking off all the flowers during the summer and in 
the winter keeping as directed above. From such you 
would have been able to get plenty of cuttings in 
the spring. _ 


Index to Volume XXVIII. The binding covers 
(price Is. Cd. each, post free. Is. ud.) and Index (3d., 
post free, 8id.) for Volume XXVIII. are now ready, 
and may be had of all newsagents, or of the Pub¬ 
lisher, post free, 2s. for the two. 


ROOM AND WINDOW. 

SOME EVERLASTING FLOWERS FOR 
WINTER USE. 

(Reply to “R. J. II.”) 

Now is a good time to harvest and prepare 
the flowers for winter decoration. Where 
numerous tall vases require filling for the 
winter months, and Towers suitable are not 
over-plentiful, various kinds of Everlasting 
Flowers and Grasses are useful, and make 
an agreeable change. Honesty ranks as one 
of the best; the shining silvery seed-pods, 
when prepared, being very showy, and last¬ 
ing a long time in good condition. It is also 
valuable in the herbaceous border in early 
summer, when the purple and white flowers 
are freely produced. There is only one 
tiling that tells again: t the growing of 
Honesty in the herbaceous borders for use 
during the winter—its untidy appearance 
after the flowers have faded, and when the 
seed-pods are forming. The remedy, then, 
grow a batch of plants in some 
part of the kitchen-garden for winter 
use. Given good culture. Honesty 
grows from 3 feet to 4 feet high. The 
plants should be pulled up about the 
middle of August, when thoroughly 
dry, and hung up in a cool, airy shed 
to dry gradually for ten days, when 
the outer covering of the seed-pods can 
be easily taken off, leaving nothing but 
the shining silvery centre. They should 
be again hung up in the same quarters 
until required for use. Heliehrysum 
is the most common species of Ever¬ 
lasting Flowers, and probably the most 
useful of all, as it can be had in such 
a variety of colours from the bractea- 
tum type, from pure white to scarlet- 
crimson, with innumerable tints be¬ 
tween. They ought to be cut in a 
variety of stages from small buds to 
fully expanded blossoms, to obtain the 
widest range of variety. Helichry- 
sums are very suitable for small as well 
as tall vases, and for bouquets and 
wreaths. The same treatment is re¬ 
quired for these as for the preceding 
in the way of harvesting the flowers. 
Rhodanthes are valuable, not only 
when grown in pots, but for winter use 
in a cut state ; being slim in appear¬ 
ance, they lend themselves to tasteful 
arrangement in small vases for draw¬ 
ing-room decoration. Sown several 
seeds in 3-inch pots in March in a 
cold frame, and afterwards planted out 
in rich soil in a warm position, they 
grow freely and flower profusely. They 
can be had in separate colours of car¬ 
mine, rose, crimson, white, and yel¬ 
low. The flowers should be fully open 
before they are cut. which should be 
done with as long stalks as possible. 
Winter Cherry (Physalis) is not 
exactly deserving of being classed 
among Everlasting Flowers, though it 
is a capital subject for winter decora¬ 
tion. The beauty of this plant con¬ 
sists in the bright red Cherrv-like 
fruits inside a large inflated calyx, 
which in time becomes skeletonised, expos¬ 
ing more to view the Cherry within. Under 
good cultivation, stems bearing many fruits 
can be cut from 1 foot to 2 feet long, 
but for keeping during the winter should 
become thoroughly matured before being 
cut. Acrocliniums, rose and white, make 
capital winter ornaments for vases ; being 
single - flowered on long, slender stems, 
they can be lightly arranged in a mass or 
mixed with other things. The flowers should 
be cut when young, as they preserve their 
colour better in that state. Aphelexis of the 
maerantha. type, cultivated as greenhouse 
specimens, are most useful in producing 
flowers for winter use after they have served 
their purpose as exhibition plants during the 
summer. The flowers last a long time after 
being cut, and give pleasing shades of pink. 
Statice profusa. another greenhouse subject, 
is appreciated by many in a cut state for 
winter use, as blue flowers, even of the ever¬ 
lasting type, are rare. The flowers ought to 
be cut before Hiey commence to turn pale on 
the plant, as the colour is better preserved, 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


The African Lily (Agapanthus umbellatus Mooreanus). From a photograph in the gardens at 
tit raff an Lloiise, Co. Kildare. 










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Original from 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



October 5, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


421 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 

THE DUTCHMAN’S PIPE (ARISTOLO 
CHIA SIPHO). 

This well-known, large-leaved plant has an 
excellent effect where large, distinct foliage 
is desired. Generally it is grown as a wall 
plant, but it is far finer used for covering 
bowers (as in the illustration) or any like 
structure, or to clamber up trees or over 
stumps. A. tomentosa is smaller, but dis¬ 
tinct in tone of green, and is well worth grow¬ 
ing in like manner. They will do well in 
any ordinary garden soil. Aristolochia 
Sipho is easily increased by layers. Well- 
ripened shooots of the preceding year are 
ppgged down on the surface of the ground 


GLADIOLUS PRtNCEPS. 

This splendid plant is, without doubt, the 
noblest of its family. It is now in flower, 
and its great blossoms measure fully t> inches 
across. In colour they arc a rich scarlet, 
the lower segments being marked by narrow 
bands of white, margined by white reticula¬ 
tion. When it was first sent out, it was said 
to be perfectly hardy, but even if this be the 
case, its successful culture often appears far 
from easy. . I procured conns upon its first 
introduction, but all of these are now dead. 
On its first flowering, I took bloom-spikes to 
a good Devonshire garden, where they created 
such a favourable impression that corms were I 
ordered. These flowered splendidly the first j 
year, hut the second season were poor. The I 


dioli do well here. G. Saundersi grows to 
perfection, has increased greatly, and always 
flowers profusely. G. tristis also does well, 
and about a dozen varieties of early-flower¬ 
ing Gladioli, such as Blushing Bride, Deli- 
catissiina, and others increase and bloom 
well. S. W. Fitzherbert. 

South Devon. 


ARCHES IN THE GARDEN. 

An arch, or series of arches, when well fur¬ 
nished with representatives of the many 
beautiful climbing plants suitable for such a 
purpose, forms a charming feature in the 
garden, but, at the same time, they are often 
placed in a position where the surroundings 
arc very inappropriate, and much of their 



An arbour formed of the Dutchman’s Pipe (Aristolochia Sipho) in the Botanic Gardens, Glasnevin, Dublin. 


and covered with 2 inches or 3 inches of soil. 
This i« best done early in the spring. The 
shoots thus layered are allowed to remain in 
the ground until the succeeding autumn, 
*hen they will be found to have emitted roots 
along the under surface. They are then 
lifted, and cut into as many pieces as there 
are rooted portions, each of which, when re¬ 
planted, forming a new plant. T. 


The refuse of the garden.— The late autumn 
brings with it much work in a garden. There is per¬ 
haps one duty that presents itself in every place, 
whether the establishment be large or small—namely, 
that of collecting the debris which has accumulated 
through the past months. The host way to dispose 
of such refuse is to burn it, and to do this one 
should make a fire on a vacant piece of ground, and 
when this has got fairly hold, then place the refuse 
on, adding to until it is all consumed. With a good 
Are all the refuse of the garden may he burned.— 
Lea hirst. 


gardener, attributing the failure to their 
being left in the ground through the winter, 
lifted them in the autumn and replanted iii 
March, but their subsequent flowering was 
poor. A few days ago I was in the same gar¬ 
den, and asked after the Gladioli. I was 
shown the spot where a dozen fine corms had 
been planted in March, and found the foliage 
very weak and not a single flower-spike. In the 
early spring I determined to try this 
Gladiolus again, and procured a dozen good 
corms, which were planted in fibrous loam 
and leaf-mould. To-day I cut four fine 
flower-spikes. One other is still in bud, but 
the other seven appear to have died, as there 
is no sign of them. In another Devon gar¬ 
den they have also failed. It would be in¬ 
teresting to hear from others their experience 
with this handsome Gladiolus. Other Gla- 


beauty is lost. When a quiet and sequestered 
walk leads from one especially interesting 
part of the garden to another, and that walk 
is spanned at intervals with arches clothed 
with such beautiful climbers as Honeysuckles, 
Clematises, climbing Roses, Jasmine, and 
similar subjects, a great charm is imparted 
to what might be a dull and uninteresting 
walk, for the beauty of the flowers is, in the 
case of many of these climbers, supplemented 
by their delicious fragrance. In immediate 
proximity to doorways or gateways in a gar¬ 
den such an arch will tend to relieve and 
partially veil the hard outlines of the en¬ 
trance and form a welcome addition to the 
floral display, while, on the other hand, if 
placed, as is often done, in an isolated posi¬ 
tion without any particular .reasons for its 
being there, an arch, even if well clothed, is 









GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


October 5, 1907 


402 


not to be commended. A pretty 6eries of 
floral arches recently came under my obser¬ 
vation, where a tennis ground was separated 
from the rest of the garden by a thick belt of 
shrubs, and over each of the openings giving 
admission to the ground, a number of niches, 
clothed principally with Clematis, produced a 
striking effect. 

The list of plants suitable for such a pur¬ 
pose is an extensive one, among those of a 
permanent or shrubby character being most 
of the various kinds of Clematis. Among 
them the ever-popular Clematis Jackmani 
must be assigned a place, as it blooms far 
more continuously than ninny of the garden 
varieties. The many species of Clematis nre 
also valuable for such a purpose. Of Honey¬ 
suckles, any of the stronger growing kinds are 
available, one of the best being the British 
Woodbine, or common Honeysuckle, whose 
highly fragrant blossoms are produced 
throughout the summer months. The 
Japanese Honeysuckle (Lonicera flexuosa) 
may also have a place assigned it, while the 
North American scarlet Honeysuckle, which, 
by the way, is hardy only in especially 
favoured districts, is the showiest member 
of the entire genus. A great number of 
climbing Roses are available for clothing 
arches, while among Jasmines, the common 
white (J asm ilium officinale) is a universal 
favourite. Though stiff and formal compared 
with the preceding, the Pyrncantha and the 
little evergreen Cotoneaster niicrophvlla arc 
also very pretty, especially when laden with 
berries. Where the climbers employed are 
regarded only' from a fine foliage point of 
view, the choice is a still more extensive one, 
as there are the Vines, their near allies the 
Ampelopsis, the large, vigorous Ivies, and 
the Dutchman’s Pipe (Ari’stolochia Sipho). A 
good many tender planks, such as the more 
vigorous Tropseolums, Colia*a scandens, Ec- 
oremocarpus scaber, Mina lobata, and others, 
are also available, but, of course, in their 
case, yearly planting is necessary, and the 
season is often well advanced before the sup¬ 
ports are satisfactorily covered. T. 


NOTES AND IMPLIES. 

Treatment of lawn — Vour answer to “ Weedy 
Lawn" is just what 1 wanted. I have three lawns 
almost covered in many places with Plantains. 1 
am carefully rooting them up, which Waves un¬ 
sightly patches all over the lawn. Can you carry 
on your advice further and kindly tell me in your 
next issue, if j>ossihle, which is the best way of 
treating the lawns, first, to renovate the bare 
patches, and, second, what preparation to put on to 
improve the general condition of the lawn? Kindly 
say the best time of year to use seeds or other pre¬ 
parations?— IGNORAMUS. 

[Dig up the bare patches, add some good 
soil, and then sow with good Grass-seed. A 
good dressing in the autumn for your lawn 
would be as follows:—One-half of the quan¬ 
tity of the compost required should be loam, 
one fourth thoroughly decayed manure, such 
as an old Mushroom bed or an old hotbed, 
and one fourth road-sweepings, or the residue 
from the burning of garden rubbish, etc. 
Some bone-meal would also make a good addi¬ 
tion. Mix all together, then pass it through a 
fine sieve, to rid it of stones and other sub¬ 
stances. Spread it evenly over the lawn, and 
let it lie for some time, afterwards working 
it in by sweeping the surface with a Birch- 
broom, first lengthwise and then in the oppo¬ 
site direction. In April next give a dressing 
of nitrate of soda at the rate of 3 lb. per 
square rod.] 

The blue Spiderwort (rommelina eeriest is).— 
Will you please tell me if Commelina crejestis would 
be quite hardy in thin part of Berks.or if it should be 
protected or taken up and treated as Dahlias arc 
through the winter? J. K. 

[This plant delights in light, warm soil. 
The roots are fleshy, and in some districts it 
is well to cover them with coal-aslics on the 
approach of winter. In cold, wet districts the 
roots may lie lifted and stored in dry leaf 
soil. In warm and stony soils and on light 
soils near the sea, it will grow like a weed. 
You should leave a plant in the open air. 
protecting as advised above, so as to test its 
hardiness in your district. Ed.] 

Climbers for perpendicular bank. Will you 
please give me your advice as to best manner of 
treating a perpendicular bank cut out of a chalk 
hill at the end of a lawn-tennis court? It is about 
f. feet high and 40 feet long, fares due south. 1 am 
thinking of plantin g four or tlve Ceunothus dent at us, 

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which I have already growing successfully in front 
or the house, which should cover the hank entirely 
in three years, but in the meantime 1 want some 
quickly-growing creepers to cover the bank in the 
next and folluwiug years. What do you recommend? 

— Akssjde. 

[Under the circumstances, your only alter¬ 
native is to plant the Ceanot’hus and fill up 
the empty spaces with annual climbers, eucli 
as Sweet Peas, Convolvuli, Tropteolums, 
Eccremocarpu.s scaber, Cobcea scandens, 
Maurandya Barclayana, etc.] 

Mesembryanthemum florlbundum —I have 
grown this Ice-plant (might I have its name amt 
variety?) with great success in a very hot window- 
box. I am leaving home in November and the house 
will be closed. How would you advise me suving the 
plants for next year? They would look unsightly if 1 
leave them in their present position, and would, I 
fear, die from wont of water. I have no greenhouse, 
hut think friends might house them for me. Should 
cuttings be taken, and how is this best done, or do 
you advise cutting down the old plants? They are 
now a magnificent bank of white blossom.—F ieksolk. 

[This is the name of your plant. The Ice- 
plant is Meserabryanthemum erystallinum. 
Cuttings of the shoots, about 3 inches long, 
or less, may now be inserted in pots in rather 
dry and very sandy soil, and stood on a win¬ 
dow-ledge, whore they would escape the rain. 
No water should be given the cuttings for at 
least a fortnight, and then only very spar¬ 
ingly. The pots must be half filled with pieces 
of broken pots, to secure a good drainage. 
When rooted the cuttings will be best placed 
on a dry shelf in a greenhouse for the winter.] 
Violets. —When Violets arc removed t-o 
frames towards the end of September from 
the open ground, the mistake is sometimes 
made of ventilating the frame too little, and 
the consequence is that the foliage begins to 
dump off. This may be obviated if oil mild 
days the lights are removed altogether, and 
during the night the lights are just raised 
slightly. Few plants show signs of damp 
quicker than Violets, and if the frame is for¬ 
gotten for a day. and becomes what some 
people call “mozy,” the leaves quickly turn 
yellow ami damp. Dusting sulphur amongst 
them will improve matters, hut it is the free 
admission of air, whenever the weather is 
fit, that ifl best for both leaves and flowers. 
-Derby, 

Campanula planiflora. Among the many 
Campanulas which ever give pleasure to their 
owners the forms of Canpanula plan i,fl ora are 
eagerly looked for as late summer and early 
autumn come round. There are many of 
more effective appearance and giving more 
abundant bloom, but there are few of greater 
distinctness and with so much of that touch 
of quaintness which gives a character to cer¬ 
tain flowers. The varieties of C. planiflora, 
frequently named C. nitida, have this to a 
marked degree, with tlieir little rosettes of 
shining, dark green leaves, and their sturdy, 
rigid, little stems some 6 inches high, or, at 
times, even less, and bearing several flattish, 
rather saucer-shaped flowers, which last well 
on the plant from the substance of their 
petals. The late Rev. C. Wolley-Dod was of 
opinion that it was merely a form of C. per- 
sicifolia, but this is not the general belief re¬ 
garding this neat little Bellflower. There 
should be some four or five forms in exist 
ence, but some of these are difficult to ob¬ 
tain. Probably the most common, and one 
of the most useful, is C. planiflora albo plena, 
a neat plant with semi-double pure white 
flowers. The single white variety is much 
scarcer than the double. There is also a 
double blue variety, which is met with occa¬ 
sionally, and J have in my garden the single 
blue one, not too much seen nowadays, but 
a pretty little plant of considerable beauty, 
although the deep blue flowers have not the 
same effect against the dark green foliage as 
those of the white variety. One can hardly 
say that this Bellflower is a free-growing 
plant, as in most gardens it increases but 
slowly, and takes some time to form little 
clumps. On the other hand, it cannot lie 
called difficult to cultivate, and will thrive 
in any reasonable soil, and grows satisfac¬ 
torily either in the border or the rock gar¬ 
den.* It is propagated bv division or by 
seeds, but the latter are not to be bad from 
the trade. It is a native of North America, 
whence it was introduced upwards of 270 
years ago.—S. ARNOTT, Dumfries. 

Everlasting Peas.— The culture of those 
once old favourites is diminishing, and they 


have been superseded to a large extent by the 
annual forms. But even these perennial 
forms are not to be despised, as they ar« 
useful in a garden where a corner needs 
blocking, or an unsightly wall needs cover¬ 
ing. Once planted, about the only attention 
they require is to cut away the old steniB 
every year, and to divide the roots occasion¬ 
ally, an operation which may be performed 
in autumn or spring. There are three or four 
sorts—viz., white, pink, and dark red, that 
are worth a trial, and, like the annual 6orts, 
they yield an immense number of blossoms 
in a season.—D erby. 

Flea-bane (Erigeron).— During the past 
summer, in the hardy flower border, no 
plants have been more free-flowering than 
have the Flea-banes. Clumps of Erigeron 
speeiosus in my garden have revelled in the 
abundance of moisture; indeed, no plants 
seem to thrive better than these in what must 
be regarded as a wet season. They have been 
in bloom on and off since the early part of 
July, and at the time of writing (September 
10th) there are still a few flowers left, almost 
rivalling the early Starworts, which are open 
in another part of the border. The Erigerous 
make splendid plants for a town garden, and 
if divided periodically—and they must be at¬ 
tended to in this particular, as they grow 
very fast—they never fail to bloom. In Octo¬ 
ber one may split up the clumps, and every 
little portion will develop into a fair sized 
root, and give bloom another year. For cut¬ 
ting they are most useful, their Daisy-like 
blossoms remaining quite fresh for a week or 
more.— Woodbastwick. 

Transplanting Lilium candidum.— It is 
more than probable that some share of the 
ill success often met with in transplanting 
this Lily is due to moving it too late in 
the season—in fact, after the roots are in 
active operation. So quickly does this Lily 
recommence growth after flowering, that the 
best time to move it is directly the flower- 
stems show signs of decay, and not to wait, 
till winter, or, at. all events, autumn, as is too 
often done. 1 have just (September 14th) 
examined some shifted a month ago. and find 
that already the young roots are in active 
growth. The crown of leaves, too, pushed up 
and retained during the winter, is, in some 
eases, becoming visible. If the removal had 
been longer delayed a certain number of 
roots would have been injured, however care¬ 
fully the operation had been performed, and 
the plants would, of course, have been 
weakened thereby. These remarks, though 
in a less degree, apply to most Lilies ; in the 
majority of eases they nre planted too late. 
As very large numbers of Lily bulbs are im¬ 
ported every year from Holland during 
autumn, there is no reason why we should 
delay obtaining them till spring, as if potted 
or planted at the proper time, they will be 
established before late purchased ones are 
Anally committed to the soil. With regard 
to L. auratum, the supply is mostly kept up 
by importations from Japan, which, of course, 
are later in reaching this country than Dutch- 
grown bulbs, but, nevertheless, the first of 
them arrive by the beginning of December, 
so that a supply of Japanese-grown roots can. 
at. all events, be obtained by Christinas. If 
Lilies were potted or planted earlier than is 
usually done, we should, doubtless, hear less 
of the* ill success that attends their culture. 

Pseonies.—Few plants among herbaceous subjects 
respond more, when good culture is given, by a pro¬ 
digality of blossoms, than the Pieonies. Plant them 
on a sunny border, where the soil is of a deep loamy 
character,* and mulch them from time to time, and 
flowers there will be in plenty iu June and July, it 
is essential that they should be given plenty of room, 
and every two or three years it is advisable to divide 
the clumps. Now it is when fresh clumps may be 
planted, and it will be an advantage to have about 
the roots u mulching of leaves in severe weather.— 
Lea hurst. 

Dianthus Napoleon III—It is almost impos¬ 
sible to overpraise this Pink. Bee it when and where 
you may, it is always beautiful. I was impressed with 
this early in September in a Dorset garden. It was 
growing on the margin of a rock-garden in a big 
pocket filled with sandy loam. It then had hundreds 
of blooms on it. the deep-crimson flowers blending 
well with those of the blue Geranium Wallachianum, 
climbing over some stones behind it and full of 
flower. Some think this kind difficult to manage, but 
I have never found it so. I find it best to strike a 
few cuttings each year under a handllght or in pans 
as earlv as cuttings can be had. In this way young 
stock is kept'up. The old plants are apt to die out. 

Dorset, -'"a"" 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



October 5, 1&07 


GARDENING ILL VST RATED. 


423 


ORCHIDS. 

ODONTOGLOSSUM CRISPUM. 
Among cool Orchids there are none more 
popular or more useful for cutting and de¬ 
coration than the well-known Odontoglossum 
crispum and its numerous distinct varieties, 
including the many rare and beautiful 
blotched and spotted forms which are always 
being eagerly sought after. This species is, 
probably, the most extensively grown Orchid 
in cultivation, and, where a large number of 
plants is cultivated, there is scarcely a month 
in the whole year in which some of them may 
not he seen in flower. For many years past 
immense quantities of O. crispum have been 
imported into this country, and at the present 
time very large consignments are frequently 
arriving, and to those growers who are now 
about to attempt their cultivation for the 
first, time, a little help as to their rudimen¬ 
tary requirements may prove acceptable. 
Like many other newly imported Orchids, 
these plants of O. crispum have two strong 
points to recommend them- healthy constitu- 


twenty finely developed blooms. Those who 
wish to be successful in establishing these 1 
freshly imported Odontoglossums should try 
to find out under what conditions they 1 
thrive in their native habitat; also to con¬ 
sider what the plants have gone through 
since they were gathered. The plants, being 
epiphytal, grow naturally on trees, from 
which they must be torn off; then the leaves 
and a greater part of the roots are removed, 
after which the plants are carefully dried, so 
as to prevent decay on the journey. Then 
they are packed with some dry material in a 
box, and, finally, the journey of several weeks 
to this country. Under such trying condi¬ 
tions, the plants invariably, through evapora¬ 
tion, Jose a great deal of their vitality, and, 
as a grower of these plants once remarked, 
such plants may be likened to a man brought 
low by illness, and no one would think of 
bringing such a patient back to health by 
gorging him with food and drink, neither 
will these plants come round by any other 
than by gentle means. 

Immediately such plants are placed in the 
grower’s hands they should he cleansed from 


peat, Pnlypodium fibre, and Sphagnum Moss 
in equal parts. Chop the materials up mode 
ratcly fine, afterwards mixing all well to¬ 
gether, and add sufficient small crocks to 
render the compost open and porous. Some 
growers prefer to mix Oak or Beech-leaves 
with the compost, but after very considerable 
experience with leaf mould, I find its effects 
only temporary, and that the plants thrive 
much better without it. 

When repotting, keep the base of the 
pseudo-bulbs slightly elevated above the rim 
of the pot, press the compost in with mode¬ 
rate firmness, taking every care not to break 
or injure the small, brittle roots. * When 
finishing off the potting, keep some living 
heads of Sphagnum Moss on the surface, so 
that in a short time the top of the compost 
will present a living covering. After potting, 
place the plants on a moist stage as close to 
the roof-glass as is convenient, keep the 
atmosphere surrounding them cool and 
moderately moist, shade from all direct sun¬ 
shine. Afford Init light waterings at first, 
being careful not to over-water them. All 
that is necessary for a time is just enough 



Odontoglossum crispum. 


tion and great expectations as to variety. As 
regards the former, the plants, even the 
smallest pieces, are brought or sent home by 
collectors in far better condition now than 
in times past; consequently, when placed in 
capable hands, very few plants fail to estab¬ 
lish themselves satisfactorily. The latter 
point, as is well known, does not always 
satisfy the expectations of the buyer ; still, 
the fact remains that a large number of very 
rare and valuable varieties have from time 
to time appeared from various importations. 
It invariably happens that those who possess 
these imported plants, especially for the first 
time, are always anxious to see them flower, 
and, without doubt, thousands of such plants 
have been irretrievably ruined bv allowing 
them to produce a spike of eight or nine 
flowers before they have made a good supply 
of roots. It is not always necessary to en¬ 
tirely remove the incipient spikes immediately 
they appear, but it is advisable that only one 
or two buds should be left to open, just to 
determine the variety. When the flowers are 
open, cut the spike off at once, and the ob¬ 
ject then should be to grow the plant on 
until it lias so thoroughly established itself 
that it will produce a/Sptke with 

Digitized by 



all dirt and rubbish, and decayed parts re¬ 
moved. A stage in the coolest house should 
be set apart for them ; if the stage consists of 
open woodwork, cover with boards or slates, 
upon which place a layer, several inches in 
thickness, of the fine dust which is sifted 
from the ordinary fibrous peat. Lay the 
plants upon this, just covering the base of 
the pseudo-bulbs with the peat dust. A very 
slight dewing overhead occasionally with a 
fine sprayer will check evaporation from the 
bulbs, and reaction commences at once. In 
due time the pseudo-bulbs will send forward 
sufficient sap to produce new growths, from 
which sooner or later roots will appear, and 
it is then time to put the plants into pots. 
Where a large number of these plants is ob¬ 
tained, it will be seen that all are not ready 
to be potted at the same time ; therefore, it 
is advisable to select those which have made 
the best start, and so by degrees pot up the 
whole of them. 

The plants should be placed in pots just 
large enough to allow for cue season’s grow th, 
and they should be filled to about one half 
of their depth with crooks for drainage. 
Place a thin layer of rough Sphagnum Moss 
over this, and for a compost use good fibrous 


water to keep the Sphagnum Moss alive. As 
the young growths gain strength and roots 
i become numerous, water may be more fre¬ 
quently and liberally afforded. Admit plenty 
of fresh air at all times, but carefully avoid 
cold draughts, which are frequently caused 
by opening the ventilators too wide at both 
top and bottom at the same time, especially 
in large, airy houses. A safe guide to follow 
is to admit only as much air as can be kept 
fairly well charged with moisture. Harsh, 
dry currents of air are always detrimental to 
the well-doing of the plants. At this season 
' the night temperature should range between 
I 55 degs. and CO (legs., and by day as low r as 
1 the external air will permit. W. 


Orchid names ( Orchi<li«t , IV.B.).—The name of 
the white-flowered Orchid is Odontoglossuin I’esca- 
torei. whose lip is quite different in shape from that 
of Odontoglossum crispum, which is probably the 
name of the others referred to by you as having been 
obtained at the same time. One is about as valuable 
I as the other. The name of the brown-spotted flower 
is Odontoglossum llunnewelliannm. With regard to 
: your plant of Odontoglossum Bietonense, the fresh 
growth now starting is quite its normal conchtion, 
i and from this a flhwerJspilde may be reasonably anti- 

OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 









GARDEMR'G ILLUSTRATED. 


October 5, 1907 


424 


VEGETABLES. 

OUTDOOR TOMATOES. 

I cannot recall a season when the failure of 
open-air Tomatoes was so marked ns in 1907, 
notwithstanding every encouragement was 
given the plants in their preparatory stages, 
and put out with all necessary precaution as 
regards time, shelter, and position. It can¬ 
not be denied that outdoor Tomato culture 
entails a considerable amount of labour and 
space, and it is disappointing, when autumn 
arrives, to find no recompense. My plants 
were pulled up and removed to the refuse- 
heap some weeks since, the ground now being 
occupied by a thriving bed of Spinach. Not 
a single fruit could be found on a batch of 
some ten dozen plants in three or four kinds. 
Against the garden walk and at the foot of 
other buildings there is a fair crop; but, as 
one might expect, the fruits are late, and 
few will be gathered in a ripe state direct 
from the plants. Against the walls mine 
have kept remarkably free from leaf disease, 
though neighbouring Potatoes were badly 
stricken. 1 inspected a large planting of 
outdoor Tomatoes recently, only to find the 
leaves gone, as though scorched by fire. Many 
of these were sheltered by overhead lights, 
temporarily fixed for the purpose in spring. 
The crop certainly was heavy, but at the 
time of my inspection there was not only 
diseased leafage, but many fruits were also 
black from the disease. There was, too, a 
marked roughness of sample—so rough, in¬ 
deed, that their value in the market must 
have been a low one. The variety, Early 
Ituby, was chosen because of its early ripen¬ 
ing, and the stock was a specially selected 
one. The corrugated and uneven outline 
was, very rightly, considered due to the cold 
summer, with its attendant almost daily rain¬ 
fall. The influence of shelter on Tomatoes 
is very marked, for my plants growing against 
brick walls show neither deterioration of 
stock nor character, and yet the self same 
unfavourable atmospheric conditions have 
been present for one as for the other. 

Outdoor Tomato culture can only be re¬ 
garded in the light of a speculation, for 
there is always the possible risk of Potato 
disease attacking the plants, even against 
walls; but where there is a heavy and con¬ 
tinuous demand for them, it is not deemed 
prudent to abandon their grow th, even when 
there remains this uncertainty of result. At 
best, this is felt to he so in the case of the 
private gardener. Many of the fruits when 
gathered as late as possible, and placed on 
shelves where a little warmth can be afforded 
them, will continue the supply well into the 
winter, especially if they are not tainted by 
disease or damaged by frost. There lias 
been much freedom of growth in the latter 
part of the summer, demanding attention to 
thinning and stopping. A slight shortening 
of the leaves when these are vigorous, aids 
the necessary advance of the crop, but I hold 
it to be a mistake to prune these severely, 
as many are wont to do, because this, instead 
of assisting, must of itself hinder real pro¬ 
gress. I have noticed that this year we have 
none of those large fruits which come in 
warmer summers, as Tomatoes, like most 
other fruits, are influenced by solar warmth, 
and it will not be in the least surprising if 
it is found that many fruits now on the 
plants refuse to ripen when placed in winter 
stores for that purpose. A use can be made 
of these green fruits, and it would be ex¬ 
pedient for those who do make Tomato 
preserve, to use, rather than retain, these 
green fruits more freely than is usually done. 

Wilts. 


French Bean Ever-bearing.— This is a 
most useful Bean for tlic6e having limited 
space. I saw this recently growing at Way- 
ford Manor. The plants were literally 
covered with niee, young, tender Beans, and 
looked ns if they would continue bearing for 
a long time. The gardener told me he placed 
the greatest value on it, from its continuing 
to crop so long. Although the pods were 
not nearly so large as those of Canadian 
Wonder, still, their number more than com¬ 
pensated for this, and to those having to pro¬ 
vide these over a long season, such a Bean is 
most valuable.—J. CL .- 

Digitized by GiO glC 


AN EARLY LONGPOD BEAN. 

One of the earliest that I have grown until 
this year was the Seville Longpod, a good, 
heavy-bearing, and hardy kind, suited for 
autumn as well as spring sowing. Carter’s 
Extra Early Longpod, grown along with 
several others sown in the spring, quite justi¬ 
fied its title ; indeed, I was surprised in a 
casual examination of this Bean plantation 
to come upon well-filled pods before some of 
the older stocks had commenced to develop 
seed. Before the end of June I was gather¬ 
ing this variety from a sowing made on the 
26th February. The gain of only a few days 
which gardeners aim to secure from an 
autumn sowing will scarcely he justified 
when the fact is remembered that the more 
reliable spring-sown plants wiil do this with¬ 
out the risk of loss by frost. Last year’s 
autumn sowing produced thriving rows, which 
seemed likely to give an early crop, but, over¬ 
taken bv a course of morning frosts, ranging 
lip to 20 degs., they collapsed, leaving the 
only course open that of digging and re¬ 
sowing later the ground thus occupied. The 
new kind seems to favour very much the 
well-known stock of Seville in its habit, 
length of pod, and early setting. There is, 
however, a shorter haulm, which is an ad¬ 
vantage. This will certainly be chosen for 
the earliest sowing another season, because 
the impression made on its first trial was 
so pronounced, and by planting the old 
favourite Seville at the same date, there 
will be the necessary succession which is so 
all-important. It is worthy of remark how 
well the dripping season suited the growth 
and podding of Broad Beans. Everywhere 
were seen fine rows furnished with abundance 
of handsome pods ; and, still more remark¬ 
able, black fly, the bane of Broad Beans, 
w r as quite absent. W. S. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

The Celery-fly. —Will you kindly tell me the best 
remedy for destroying the grubs in Celery-leaves 
without injury to the plants? I have enclosed a few 
leaves.—P. Knight. 

[Late in the summer and in the autumn it 
may be often noticed that the leaves of Celery 
and Parsnips have a very withered and 
blighted appearance. On closer examination 
it will be found that the discoloured leaves 
are much blistered, and on holding one up 
against the light a grub or maggot, nearly 
\ inch long, will be seen between the skins of 
the leaf. This is the grub of the Celery-fly, 
which lives on the softer portions of the in¬ 
side of the leaf. When the grubs are present 
in large numbers, os is often the case, the 
plants arc very much injured by the loss of 
so much foliage, and become weak, sickly, 
and stunted. The grubs may be found from 
the middle of June to the end of November, 
and as there are two or more broods of this 
insect during the season, it is very desirable 
that the grubs of the first brood should be 
destroyed, so as to prevent, if possible, any 
future generations. This is rather trouble¬ 
some. but it may be done very effectually by 
pinching that part of the leaf where the grub 
is between the finger and thumb, or cutting 
the infested leaves off and burning them. 
Broadcast sprinklings of soot and lime will 
often prevent the flies depositing their eggs in 
the leaves, but when once the maggot has 
developed nothing but rigid band-picking will 
eradicate it. You ought to go over your 
plants carefully, and. wherever seen, destroy 
the maggot. One picking may suffice, but, if 
not, you must repeat it. It is almost im¬ 
possible to do anything effectually towards 
exterminating this insect in its oilier states; 
the eggs arc very small, and, being laid be¬ 
tween the skins of tlie leaves, it is almost 
impossible to detect them.] 

Spot in Tomatoes.—Having been a render of 
vour valuable paper for some lime past, I should be 
pleased if you would kindly inform ine throucli your 
columns what is the matter with enclosed Tomato? 
Is it caused by dampness or is it a disease, as they 
all seem to be affected by it? — Wm. Itinciim. 

[Your Tomatoes have been attacked by a 
fungoid pest known as “black spot,” caused 
by moisture settling, and hanging on the 
undersides of the fruiis. Like all fungi, this 
germinates very fast, in moisture, and Hpores 
washed to the base of the fruits soon grow 
there. The house in which your Tomatoes 
are growing should be well ventilated during 


the night, water should be given sparingly, 
and plenty of air admitted during the day. 
Pick off and at once destroy all alTccted 
fruits. The best cure for this is made of 
10 oz. of sulphate of potassium or liver of 
sulphur dissolved in two quarts of boiling 
water, adding two gallons of water, and 
spraying the plants with this.] 

Tomato sauce (G. W. D.J.— Put into a 
preserving-pan half a sieve of Tomatoes—the 
riper and sounder the better—with 4 oz. of 
Shallots, a clove of Garlic, a blade of Mace, 
a little Parsley, Lemon Thyme, Knotted 
Marjoram, and a Bay-leaf; let these boil 
quickly, until quite soft, then pass all through 
a wire sieve, return to the preserving-pan, 
anti boil tip with a pint of sherry until as thick 
as cream. Put into hot, wide-mouthed 
pickle bottles, cover the corks with bottle- 
wax, store in a cool, dark place.—B. 

Exhibiting Shallots In bunches.— The 
value of these in the garden is considerable, 
where the Onion crop is uncertain. This ap¬ 
plies forcibly to cottagers, seeing Shallots can 
be stored early, and keep a long time. When 
judging at cottagere’ shows in the west, I 
have been impressed with the attention given 
to Shallots—especially in some districts in 
Devonshire. Recently, when judging, 1 found 
a new way of showing these had been 
adopted—namely, in bunches. This was a 
novel way to me. Still, it possesses much 
merit. These bunches were shown as they 
grew in the soil. In every case the whole 
clump was shown, each clump containing 
from twelve to twenty bulbs, all of good size. 
Many lots were made bright by removing the 
rough outside skins and soil. It was worthy 
of note that in all the best lots the owners 
had recognised the value of cleaning them. 
One thing that struck me was the clean and 
Round appearance of the produce, showing 
that much attention had been given to plant¬ 
ing large, good bulbs. I have found much 
benefit from raising new stock from seed.— 
J. C. F. 

Three good Peas. -Soil and situation in¬ 
fluence Peas considerably. During the past 
season I have been noticing the varied 
opinions regarding some kinds, and find that 
Gradus is now largely grown. I am aware 
that there are many selections of this, but if 
the best stock is obtained nothing better can 
be had for an early kind. I know it is not 
quite so early as the round kinds, which are 
inferior in many ways. My next best kind 
this year is The Clipper. I consider this a 
great advance on the Duke of Albany type. 
It has a pod of about the same size, filled 
with Peas of the best colour, and quite sweet 
enough. With me it grew about 5 feet high, 
the pods hanging so thickly that they ap¬ 
peared to cover the haulm. The Clipper re¬ 
sembles the old Essex Rival in colour of foli¬ 
age, blit it has larger and longer pods. The 
third is Ne Plus Ultra, a very old kind, which 
I am old-fashioned enough to prefer to any 
other tall growing kind.—M. H. 

The Daisy Pea. —One of the very best of 
all the dwarf section of wrinkled Marrow- 
Peas is The Daisy. Its average height is 
about 2 feet, and it may be sown fairly thick 
in rows about 2 feet apart. I have a few 
rows now in full bearing. One can get a good 
dish from a small space, as the pods are large 
and filled with fine large Pens of excellent 
flavour. In suburban districts the cost of 
sticks is very great, and any Pea that pro¬ 
duces such fine pods as Daisy, on fairly short- 
haulm, is sure to be popular. Such kinds as 
this are quite as useful for very late sowing 
as for the very earliest; in fact, there would 
be no need for any other kind, provided suc- 
cessional sowings were made at frequent 
intervals, so as to have Peas fit for use as 
long as they are procurable out-of-doors.— 
J. Groom, Gosport. 

Late Turnips should be well thinned out, 
and if the ground is verv dry, a watering 
ought to be given ere this work is carried 
out, or those that are intended to form the 
bed arc liable to get loosened, and will make 
but little progress until the rain comes. This 
has been an ideal summer for these root6. 
qrtiek growth and an absence of fleas, the cool 
nights suiting Turnips admirably. North 
borders are the best positions for summer 
spwings of garden Turnips. - J. M. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



October 5, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


425 



leaved trees do, and consequently when it 
rains, a fair portion of the water runs down 
the trunk and moistens the ground around 
it. The young leaves of the False Acacia 
are rather late in putting in an appearance 
in the spring, but when first expanded their 
pleasing green is always much admired, and, 
to counterbalance their tardiness, they are 
among the very last to drop. For town plant¬ 
ing the ordinary form is very suitable, and 
if inclined to outgrow its allotted space, it 
can be, when young, readily pruned back. 
For limited spaces, too, some of the smaller- 

suecess in the open air in South 
Devon and Cornwall, and on these 
a few remarks may be interesting. 

G. alpina, often grown as G. nlpes- 
tris, is a native of the southern por¬ 
tion of Australia, where it grows in 
the mountainous districts. Although 
in its native country it is said to 
attain a height of several feet, it is 
known here as a dwarf shrub. It 
flowers abundantly, and its blossoms 
are borne at the end of the shoots 
in short racemes, and are tubular 
at the base, separating above into 
four petals. In colour they are 
rosy red, with yellow tips to the 
petals, which all curl back on one 
side. The leaves are- covered with 
a grey down. G. Preissi, of which 
the correct title is now held to be 
G. Thelemanniana, is a native of 
the Swan River district of West 
Australia. The flowers, which are 
borne in dense, j>endent clusters at 
the tips of the branches, are deep 
rosy-red with yellow petals. The 
style is conspicuous with its long 
red stalk and orange stigma. The 
prettily-divided leaves are of a light 
green tint. G. rosmarinifolia is one 
of the hardiest of the family, and 
has been grown in the open in Devon 
and Cornwall for many years. It 
generallv forms a low, spreading 
bush. In one Cornish garden a 
specimen is 4 feet in height and 
12 yards in circumference. Its foli¬ 
age, as its name implies, is Rose- 
mary-like. Its flowers arc cherry- 
red in colour, and are produced in 
profusion. A bush in full bloom is 
a very pretty eight. G. sulphurea 
is now held to be a variety of G. 
juniperina. This is as liardv as the 
last-named species, and survives the 
winter in the neighbourhood of 
London when planted against a 
wall. Its habit is that of a dense, 
much-branched shrub, furnished 
with narrow, pointed leaves. Its 
flowers, which are similar to those 
of the other Grevilleas mentioned 
in form, are sulphur-yellow in 
colour. One other Grevillea that 
has been grown in the open in a 
Cornish garden is the well-known 
G. robusta. such a favourite for con¬ 
servatory decoration in pots. 

S. W. Fitzhbrbert. 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 

THE GREVILLEAS. 

The Grevilleas are Australian plants, of 
which about thirty species and varieties are 
now recognised. At the time when the cul¬ 
ture of New Holland plants under glass was 
eo much in vogue, many of the Grevilleas 
were grown in the greenhouse. Now, how¬ 
ever, this phase of floriculture having gone 
out of fashion, Grevilleas are seldom seen in 
the glasshouse. A few have been tried with 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 


The False Acacia as a town tree. 

—Even in London the delicate, 

Fern-like leaves of the False Acacia 
retain their freshness throughout 
the summer, and for town planting 
it certainly merits more attention. 

For street planting it is a decided 
break away from the ubiquitous 
Plane, which, in some districts, 
is overdone. Many of the trees planted in 
streets, and even to a great extent those 
in forecourts and small gardens, suffer 
greatly from drought during the summer. 
This is one of the reasons that town trees 
so quickly lose their freshness, though, 
of course, the more or less Bmoke-laden at¬ 
mosphere also plays a considerable part. 
The False Acacia is much less affected by 
drought than many trees, for the roots pos¬ 
sess the deep-descending, wide-spreading 
nature common to several other members of 
the Leguminosa famihtf'aiT’d the t^ee^Jogyiot 
form such a dense can^Dy^lJi verf 


Flowering shoot of Grevillea sulphurea. From a photograph 
in a Surrey garden. 


growing forms are available, and though, i 
villa gardens, there is a great tendency to 
overdo the mop-headed variety (inermis or 
umbraculifera), it is, nevertheless, when judi¬ 
ciously placed, a very pleasing object. In 
the above note on the False Acacia, the 
beauty of its foliage is mainly dealt with, 
for though some of the varieties, such as 
Decaisneana, are very handsome when in 
bloom, the production of flowers is in towns 
not always desirable.—X 
Evergreen shrubs, propagating.— This is 
a good time of the year for putting in cut¬ 
tings of the various evergreen shrubs, and if 


they can he protected by a frame, so much 
the better; indeed, in some cases the return 
will he a poor one unless they are so shel¬ 
tered. Shrubs of this class would include the 
various evergreen Euonymus, Privets, Aucu- 
bas, Box, and a host of other subjects. 
Whether the cuttings are put into pots or 
into a bed of soil formed in a frame, the 
same mode of procedure is followed. The 
advantages of using pots are that the dif- 
I ferent kinds can be more readily kept dis¬ 
tinct from each other, and. when struck, the 
rpols are loss liable to he injured in turning 
them out of pots than in lifting them from 
the bed of soil. Another advantage of pot- 
culture is that where a miscellaneous collec¬ 
tion of cuttings is put in, some will be cer¬ 
tain to strike root in much less time than 
others, and if in pots, those that are struck 
can be lifted out and removed to more airy 
quarters, while if put into a bed of soil, either 
those that are rooted must he kept close, and 
greatly weakened thereby, or the more back¬ 
ward ones will suffer if too much air is given. 
As a great many of these things are now 
largely used for decoration when young, 
attention must be paid to ensure a bushy 
habit of growth. To induce this, the top3 
of the plants should be pinched out as soon 
as rfioted, for if once allowed to run up. 
nothing short of absolute cutting down will 
ensure a bushy habit. Where there arc no 
appliances at hand, and the cuttings have to 
be put in the open ground, as sheltered a 
spot as possible must be chosen, but at 
the same time on no account should it be 
shaded by overhanging trees. The soil must 
be open ; it will he necessary to insert the 
cuttings firmly in the soil and at a greater 
depth than if protected by a frame. The 
cuttings should he cut off with a sharp knife, 
and a few leaves removed for the purpose of 
insertion. Of cuttings in the open ground, 
if they he 1 foot in length, three parts of 
that should be buried in the ground, as they 
are thus to a great extent protected from 
frosts and drying winds. 

Soil for Wistaria. —Some weeks ago you gave 
an explanation of the method of pruning Wistaria. 
Please give me information as to the best variety (if 
more than one), the time to plant, the most suitable, 
soil and aspect? I may mention my soil is light, 
rather poor, and a clay bottom, and I have a choice 
of two aspects—one on a west border, and the 
other open to the north, east, and south, where it 
would get the sun from sunrise till about four 
o’clock in the summer.—G. C. Rose, Birmingham. 

[The Wistaria wilL thrive in any ordinary 
garden soil, provided it is well drained. Like 
all other climbing flowering plants, it well 
repays any little extra pains that may be- be¬ 
stowed on the planting. The soil should be 
taken out to a depth of 18 inches or 2 feet, 
and 6hould be turned over several times at 
intervals of a week, so that it may become 
quite sweet and mellow. At the same time, 
some w’ell-rottod dung may he added to it, 
and if the soil is naturally of a light descrip¬ 
tion, an admixture of sandy loam would also 
prove beneficial. If, on the contrary, tho 
soil is of a stiff, tenacious character, mix with 
it. some leaf-mould or wood-ashes, and, if pos¬ 
sible, a little mortar rubbish, with some 
brickbats, etc., in the bottom to assist the 
drainage. In such a compost the Wistaria 
will grow amazingly. The width and length 
of the border thus made must be left to the 
discretion of the planter, who should, how¬ 
ever, hear in mind that all plants are bene¬ 
fited by an extended root-run in congenial 
soil. Plant where plenty of sun can be had. 
Get, if you can, a plant in a pot of the ordi¬ 
nary form, Wistaria sinensis.] 

Ivies.—Somehow we do not appreciate these most 
useful wall-coverings when other creepers are with 
us, but when frost has denuded other things of 
foliage then it is that we see the worth of the con¬ 
stant friend—the Ivy. On cold walls few' subjects 
thrive better. There are the large leaves of dentata, 
that effectually keep a wall dry, and there are the 
attractive sprays of the gold and silver sorts. To any¬ 
one in doubt as towhat to plant on a cold wall, let me 
recommend Ivies. By clipping the old foliage away 
in March, one may soon have new leaves that will 
give a freshness to a wall the summer through.— 
Townsman. 

Griselinia littoralis.—Lovers of ornamental 
shrubs should not be deterred from planting Grise- 
linins by the letter of “ (J. R. C.,” whose experience 
is the exact opposite of mine. Here, near Birr (in the 
centre of Ireland), where the lowest winter tempera¬ 
tures in the kingdom are frequently recorded. 1 have 
had a plant in the_open and quite unprotected for 
some fifteen years, without its ever being damaged 
by frost, even when Fuchsias. Euonyrmises, Olearias, 
and other things suffer severely.—P ercy Bicknell. 



426 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


October 5, 1907 


GARDEN WORK. 

Conservatory. -The weather now is bright 
and warm, but a change may come 60 on, and 
it is not wise to leave any plants outside that 
may be injured by frost, rain, or wind. 
Every gardener now has to do the most he 
can with the means placed at his disposal, 
and a little market gardening is done in many 
gardens now. This often includes Tomato¬ 
growing in thp houses after the bedding and 
other plants are cleared out. This season 
Tomatoes in cool-houses are later than usual 
in ripening, and this may cause Chrysanthe¬ 
mums and other plants to be left outside 
longer than usual. Under such circum¬ 
stances, a canvas-house, which can be erected 
oil posts and scantlings nt. a small cost, and 
that will afford shelter till the bouses arc 
cleared, is useful. Such places are also use¬ 
ful for sheltering in spring and retarding in 
summer, and before the winter storms set in 
the canvas may l>e taken off and put away in 
the dry. Zonal Pelargoniums that have been 
prepared for winter flowering will now be 
indoors in a light position. Tt is very easy 
to overwater Zonal Pelargoniums, and if. a 
plant gets water-logged it will be better to 
throw it on the rubbish heap, as it will* not 
recover. Genistas are very useful plants for 
winter and spring. These are often planted 
out when they are turned out of the houses iu 
spring, first giving a little pruning, and they 
do very well so treated, but any plants not 
potted up should have immediate attention, 
though Genistas are not specially tender, and 
a degree or so of frost will not hurt them 
when the growth has been hardened bv ex¬ 
posure. Salvias will not. bear much frost, 
and. in their case, exposure to frost will mean 
ruin. It is usual to move Azaleas and Heaths 
inside in good time, but Azaleas arc among 
the hardiest of greenhouse plants. All these 
things, however, should be placed under 
cover, as we cannot foresee what the weather 
will be from day to day. There is plenty of 
flowers in the conservatory now, from the re¬ 
mains or summer and early autumn flowering 
things. 

Stove. -The bright sunshine of the present 
time will put colour into Crotons and 
Dracaenas. Young plants in 5-incli pots, 
when well coloured, will be very useful for 
table decoration. Damp floors often to 
moisten the atmosphere. Thrips are partial 
to smooth-leaved plants, but vaporising ocea 
sionallv will keep the plants clean, and it is 
not wise to wait till the insects are at work, 
as the foliage is soon ruined, and then the 
plants are useless for table work. Keep Be¬ 
gonias of the Gloire de Lorraine section near 
the glass to ripen growth for winter blooming. 
Gardenias must have warmth now. to expand 
the blossoms. Keep a sharp look out for 
mealy-bug. Clerodendron fallax will Ik- com¬ 
ing into flower now, and young plants carry¬ 
ing one large truss of scarlet blooms will be 
useful for decorative work. This is easily 
propagated from cuttings in spring, in a 
brisk bottom-heat, and seeds can generally 
be obtained. Coleus thyrsoideus. another 
easily-grown, useful subject for winter, should 
lx* near the glass now. Caladiums are losing 
colour, and should have less water. Cissus 
discolor is an old plant, with prettily marked 
foliage, easily propagated from cuttings of 
ripe wood. We have found this useful for 
draping baskets of large Ferns. Tempera¬ 
ture, CO degs. to 65 clegs, nt night. 

Succulent plants. These include Aloes, 
Cacti, and others which branch off into 
various sections. A collection of Cacti is al¬ 
ways interesting. With the exception of the 
Epiphyllums. which will be shortly in 
flower, most of the Cactus section will rest 
through the winter in a dry, cool house, l»ut 
safe from frost, with only just enough water 
to keep the growth fresh. If any repotting 
is wanted, it should wait till spring, which is 
the best time for repotting. The compost 
for these plants should bo of a very porous 
nature—a little good loam and leaf mould, 
freely mixed with broken bricks, charcoal, 
old plaster, and similar stuff. There must be 
a base of good stuff, and this is supplied by 
the loam, and in the spring, when tlie flower¬ 
ing season is cominfe round, a B4t liquid- 
manure’ will be u$et\[j Vb* J1 * 6 


very simple ; every bit will form roots, if left 
for a time exposed on the border. 

Liquid-manure for plants.— Clear soot- 
water is easily made, is economical, and 
imparts a dark green colour to the foliage, 
and good foliage, in a general way, means 
plenty of good, bright flowers. Soot-water is 
easily made by tying about a peek of fresh 
soot up in an old canvas bag and sinking it in 
a tub of water, stirring it occasionally for a 
week or so, and then mixing a pint or a little 
more in a gallon of wafer. There is plenty 
of suitable manures to be had now that are 
quite free from smell, and are very stimu¬ 
lating. Most plants like a change of diet, 
and if we begin with soot we can finish with 
guano or sulphate of ammonia. There are 
many plants which can be helped with a little 
stimulant now. All flowering plants which 
have filled their pots with roots limy, and we 
find it useful in a weak state Tor Ferns. 
There comes a time when Ferns have filled 
the pots with roots. It may not be con¬ 
venient to repot, and they can have help in 
another form. It is. of course, worse than 
useless at this, or any other season, giving 
stimulants to plants in a weakly state. Get 
the pots filled with hungry roots, and then 
feed. Cyclamens, Cinerarias, and also other 
flowering and fine foliaged plants, including 
Orchids, may be helped by weak stimulants 
at the right time. 

Outdoor garden.— No time should be lost 
now r in sowing Grass seeds on new lawns. If 
sown during September, there will be a good 
lawn in the spring, if the work has been 
properlv done. It will be a great help to 
cover the seeds with a little good. sifted soil. 
Old hot bed manure, passed through a 
screen or sieve, will be still better. This 
should be evenly distributed, and then rolled 
down. Thin the buds of Dahlias, if fine 
flowers are wanted, and tie the stems and 
branches securely, as we usually have gales 
of wind at this season. Evergreen shrubs 
may be moved safely now. Water them in, 
and make firm. Stake all which require it. 
and mulch with old manure or leaf-mould. 
Syringe the foliage, if the weather continues 
dry. Among the newer Starworts or Michael¬ 
mas Daisies Snowdon should find a place. 
We have it now in flower (September 17th). 
It has a pretty effect in a mass, and is useful 
for cutting. Among the autumn flowering 
bulbs Colchieums and Stcrnbergias arc worth 
noting, and masses of the Japanese Anemones 
are very effective now. Seedling Pansies 
sown in June are now very bright, and come 
in useful for filling beds in autumn either as 
a groundwork to bulbs or in a mass. The 
season has been favourable for them. 

Fruit garden. -Plums are everywhere too 
abundant—Victoria especially. All the jam¬ 
pots may be filled cheaply now. The unfor¬ 
tunate thing about it is that very often after 
a glut comes a scarcity, especially if the 
trees arc old. But wc should never let a tree 
remain to get loo old for work. Young trees 
from ten to twenty years old are seldom alto¬ 
gether fruitless. Even Gages, when the 
frees are old. produce only small fruits, but 
age in fruit-trees is not always a question of 
years. A well-nourished tree will retain its 
fertility much longer than a tree iu poor soil 
without help. Basic slag is a uscfuL manure 
for stone fruits. AH fruit trees may he root- 
pruned now. if it is necessary. Young trees, 
three to four years planted, may lie lifted 
when the leaves are falling, and replanted, 
spreading the roots within 9 inches oT the 
surface. It is a very great advantage to 
keep the spade from the roots of fruit-trees. 
Whatever cultivation is required can be done 
with the fork or hoe. and nothing should be 
planted within 3 feet of the stem ; then the 
roots can be fed on the surface with rich top- 
dressings. where required. Stnndard trees in 
the orchard should have more room than is 
generally given to them. Apple trees to do 
well should have 30 feet, and Blenheim 
Orange might have a little more space. 

Vegetable garden.— There is some advan¬ 
tage in planting the early Cabbages at inter¬ 
vals. I have sometimes found those planted 
first inclined to bolt, while the later planted 
ones moved on steadily, even when taken 
from the same seed bed. Of course, most 
practical men make more than one sowing, 


so that if any of the early-sown plants bolt 
there is a reliable lot to fill up with, and in 
private gardens all the Cabbages are not 
wanted at the same time. Plant out winter 
Lettuces under south borders, and fill all 
turf pits or spare frames with Lettuces and 
Endives. Onions which are intended for 
keeping cannot be kept too dry and cool. If 
possible, bang them where there is a free 
circulation of air. A few fine days among 
the weeds now will prevent them seeding. 
Take advantage of the fine weather to stir the 
soil among all young crops of Spinach. Tur¬ 
nips, and Onions. Prick out Cauliflowers 
either into frames to he left exposed or at 
the foot of a south wall, where shelter can lx: 
given. This refers only to autumn-sow it 
plants. Continue earthing up Celery, Leeks, 
and Cardoons. The last arc usually wrapped 
round with hay or straw bauds. Muslirooin- 
beds made now are usually very satisfactory. 
Sow Radishes in a frame now f , and Mustard 
and Cress in boxes under glass. 

E. Hobday. 

THE COMING WEEK'S WORK. 

Extracts from a Garden Diary. 

October 7th. Evergreen trees and shrubs 
arc now being transplanted. All ground for 
new shrubberies is trenched 1! feet deep. 
Unless the ground is very poor, manure is iiot 
generally used for this work, but every plant 
is mulched with manure after planting, and 
the rains wash the strength into the soil, 
and this gives the necessary support. We 
have a heap of charred garden refuse and 
old potting soil to place round the roots of 
any choice specimen, to give the roots a 
start. 

October 8th .— In planting new places the 
sites for the best specimens are marked out 
first by driving in a stump with the name of 
the specimen written thereon, this being part 
of a well-considered plan. No crowding of 
these main features is permitted, and neither 
is the ground crowded with common things 
as nurses, ns I would rather fill in at first 
with suitable masses of such things as Del¬ 
phiniums, Hollyhocks, Phloxes, etc. 

October 9th .—All fruits are gathered when 
they will part easily from the tree without 
undue pressure, and are placed iu paper-lined 
baskets and carried to the fruit room. All 
bruised and deformed fruits are placed by 
themselves for present use. The fruit room 
received its annual cleaning some time ago. 
so that now all is sweet and clean. The 
windows are left open at first, and all win¬ 
dows are fitted with shutters, for use when 
required. 

October 10th .—Placed a layer of sifted ashes 
on the surface of the Violet beds in frames. 
This keeps down damp, and checks evapora¬ 
tion. All the air possible is given now. night 
and day. At the present time several pits 
are full of Cyclamens. Cinerarias, and Cal¬ 
ceolarias, but they will not. remain there 
much longer, and we have mats for their pro¬ 
tection, in case of frost. We are rather full 
of young stock of various kinds, and Toma- 
tr>es are late, so that we have not got quite 
ship shape yet. 

October Uth. All Potatoes have been lifted 
and the greater part secured in clamps, as 
we find they keep lx>st in this way. AznlenA 
are now coming in from the continent, and 
these have to be potted on arrival and placed 
for a time iu a cool, north house, where they 
can be syringed till the roots begin to work. 
We generally have to reduce the roots of im¬ 
ported Azaleas, to get them into suitable¬ 
sized pots. I have sometimes suggested tri 
our continental friends some slight reduction 
might be given before packing. 

October Finished planting Carnation 

lavers. A few of the best are potted up, and 
will be kept in a cold frame to fill up blanks, 
if required. After planting, the beds are 
mulched with old Mushroom manure, broken 
very fine. The beds were dressed with 12 oz. 
per square yard of wireworm destroyer, 
forked in, and mixed with the soil. Moved 
early flowering Chrysanthemums to conser¬ 
vatory, and made eome re arrangement, 
where possible; Climbers are reduced gradu¬ 
ally. to let in more lights 





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UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



423 


GARDENING ILL USTR.I TED. 


October 5, 1907 


flies have been feeding on the foliage; but the wood 
as well as the foliage seemed in a very unhealthy 
condition. That frequently happens to the upper 
parts of the shoots when a plant has been replanted, 
while the lower eyes are healthy, and only need an 
opportunity to produce healthy young growths. 

Chrysanthemum sport (J. Garforth).—The plant ( 
seems to be a free-flowering kind that may be of 
value in the garden; but, unfortunately, the flowers 1 
are so faded that it is not possible to speak decidedly 
of its comparative merits. So far as can be judged, 
however, it would probably And a good many rivals, 
and we doubt if the commercial value of the stock 
would be great. This, however, remains to be seen, 
and the, best way to find out would be t-o send, a few 
blooms to some of the firms who deal largely in 
Chrysanthemums, taking care that they are carefully 
packed, so that they may be seen in their true 
character. At the same time let them know what 
stock you have. 

Clematis and Bose (Roxmoor ).—We cannot say 
why the Clematises do not flower, as you give us no 
clue as to where they arc planted, the kind of soil, 
or other important items. Nor is it possible to 
name such things from leaves. We can only say 
that No. 2. from the foliage, appears to he Clematis 
montana. but we may be quite wrong even in this. 
If it is this species, the plant requires to be of some 
age before flowering, and is suited to growing on a 
south-western exposure. All the species and varie¬ 
ties of Clematis require to be grown in good posi¬ 
tions, where the growth enn be well ripened. If 
your plants are among tiees or shrubs or shaded by 
them, a good flowering is not to be looked for. We 
suspect the failure to hloom to be due to some local 
cause of which we have neither knowledge nor in¬ 
formation. If you can enlighten us on these points, 
we may, in turn, be able to assist you. The dark 
spots on the Rose-leaf appear to be due to mildew, 
and this may be checked by syringing the plants with 
some of the advertised remedies for mildew. 

Iiilium speclosum roseuin after flowering 

(J. Brown).— Your Lilies may be placed out-of-doors 
and watered as before till the leaves turn yellow, 
when the supply must be diminished, but at no time 
must they be parched up. Then, when the flower- 
sterns are quite dead, repot them. If the roots are 
in good condition, pots 1 inch or even 2 inches wider 
may be used. They should be stood out-of-doors for 
a time in a sheltered spot, under which treatment 
the roots will soon Like possession of the new soil. 
Then when frost sets in remove them to an ordinary 
garden frame or to the greenhouse. As soon as they 
commence to g'row see that they have as much light 
and air as possible. You will find that, as a rule, 
those kept over from the preceding year flower some¬ 
what earlier than .freshly-imported bulbs. In future 
when you send any queries, please 6ign each one. 

TREES AND SHRUBS. 

Colouring Hydrangeas (L. It.). — Sulphate of 
iron (green copperas) is about one penny for 7 lb., 
wholesale. One pennyworth from a druggist will 
suffice for colouring several Hydrangeas. 

Magnolia grandiflora. cutting back {Nightin¬ 
gales).—Young plants of this should never be pruned, 
and in the case of such a flue specimen as yours, 
which you say is seventy years old. we certainly 
should not advise cutting back in any w r ny. If the 
branches are too thick.then you may take one out here 
and there, but- the less cutting done the better. 
Spread the branches out so as to let the sun and air 
in to ripen the wood, and nail them flrinly to the 
wall. • 

Olearia Haasti < Walter T .).—The plant Is Olearia 
Haasti. If you wish to move the plants from the 
positions they now occupy, the work would be better 
done early in October or allowed to remain over till 
February or March. As the plants have obviously 
been some years where they now arc, the last-named 
month would be best, and in the meantime if you dig 
a trench about the plants—say, at 2 feet from the 
stem and 2 feet deep—cutting away all roots, finally 
refilling the trench, the plants will, in a measure, be 
prepared for the shift. 

FRUIT. 

Pear foT name (L. G .).—Your small early Pear is 
Eye wood, one very little grown nftw, and certainly 
with you, small indeed. The fruits much resemble 
those of the earlier Doyennd d’Et<5. We found the 
sample sent to be dry and flavourless. This Pear 
varies greatly on diverse soils, but to-day no one 
would think of recommending it. 

Apples and Pears to name (F. S. W. S.).— 
Several of the fruits sent for name are yet too poorly 
grown or immature to enable us to name them. 
Fruits should not only be fully matured, but be good 
samples of their varieties, to enable them, out of 
many hundreds of varieties to be properly identified. 
Indifferently grown fruits too often resemble others. 
Of Apples, we can identify No. 1 as Fivecrown 
Pippin, 2 and 4 as Tower of Glamis, and 3 as Ecklin- 
ville, subject to the samples being true to character. 
All three are well worth growing. Of Pears, Nos. 1, 
S, and 4 are much too immature yet for anyone to 
name, 2 is the stewing PeAr Catilluc, and the large 
No. 3 is Beurr6 Diel; but two fruits numbered S 
are widely dissimilar. Beurr6 Diel is a good dessert 
Pear on a wall. 

VEGETABLES. 

Mildewed Globe Artichokes (Caragh ).—The 
leaves of some of your bed of Globe Artichoke plants 
sent show a white mould or mildew similar to that 
often seen on Cabbage, Peas, and Turnips. The 
leaves sent were too dry, and the mould also, to en 
able any close examination to be made of them. 
You have done well to gather off all infected leaves, 
and, we hope, duly burned them. Continue to do 
the same, if needfui. Get in a quantity of flowers 
of sulphur, and on a Ifurnra evening, wlnm.fcbe leaves 
are hj*t damp, dust «icm UeaY v v(t» Mpnur. Do 
that at intervals of *\ou nJttftNiriso draw 


away, close round the leaves, 2 inches thickness of 
the soil, barrow it away, then dust over the roots 
thickly with sulphur, and replace soil with fresh, 
dusting that also. In that way you may effectively 
check the mildew. No one can tell whence these mil¬ 
dews come or, indeed, whither they go. 

MISCELLANEOUS. 

Agricultural college.(S. C. L.).—Probably the 
Horticultural College, Swanley, would best meet your 
requirements; but the Midland and Agricultural Col¬ 
lege, Derby, is nearer to you. The training here is, 
certainly, mainly in agricultural matters, hut there 
is, we believe, a good horticultural department also. 


SHORT REPLIES. 


Rose Rust .—Your Rose-leaves have been attacked 
by the Rose-leaf blotch fungus, see replies to 
“ E. M. B.” and “ L. H. G.,” in our issue of Septem¬ 
ber 7th, p. 368. The .Sweet Pea foliage has evidently 
been eaten by a slug, or it may be attacked by shot- 

hole fungus.-.S’. .S’.—You will find the subject dealt 

with in Hobday's “ Villa Gardening,” which can he 
bad from this office. Your questions as to pruning 

have been dealt with frequently in our pages.- 

Disappointed .—Your Grapes are what is known as 
" shanked.” From what we can see of the bunch 
you send, you are overcropping the Vine, lienee the 
trouble. See article re " Grapes Shanking,” in our 
issue of August loth, p. 303.— Preston .—You should 
ask some timber-merchant in your district to look 
at the trees; without seeing them it is impossible for 

us to advise.- Devonshire.—1, Prune back to one 

strong bud, or you may leave two, rubbing out the 
weaker one when the Vines start next spring. 2. 
You ought to have disbudded the Peaches and 
Plums, laying in the young shoots that started from 
the base of the growth that is carrying the fruit. 
This will fruit next season. 3, Do not exceed wire 
with a 1-inch mesh. 4. If your plants arc all like 
the specimens sent, we should not hesitate to con¬ 
sign them to the fire-heap. They will never do any 
good. Seeing the plant-is a very old one, it would 
be better to sacrifice it, and plant a young tree where 

you want it.- II. E. Taylor .—Write to Amos Perry, 

Enfield, Middlesex.-.4nrite Byford.— Judging from 

the twigs of the Copper Beech you send us. the tree 
is past recovery, it- has been too dry at the roots, 
and we find traces of aphides on the leaves. Such a 
tree is not suited for a London garden, more espe 
daily in the district'you write from. — Rhys.—You 
give us no idea as to the size of the house you wish 
to heat. Various makers advertise in our pages. 2, 
Your best plan, will be to consult a horticultural 

builder in your district.- Rev. John Me .—You 

should 'get a copy of “ Vines and Vine Culture.” 
Barron, price 6s. 6d., post free, from 13, Sutton Court- 

road, Chiswick, London,.W.- Litton .—The Armerin 

is so easily .increased by division that we should in 

your case adopt this plan.- E. M. Birch .—If the 

wood is only charred it is of little use. but if con¬ 
verted into charcoal then you will find it very use¬ 
ful in the cultivation of plants in pots, etc.- 

if. J. Gamble.—See article in our issue of Decem¬ 
ber 16th, 1905. p. 542, re “ Rambler Roses in Pots,” 
a copy of which can be had of the publisher, post 
free, for Ijd. See article on the “ Belladonna Lilies,” 
and illustration of the same, in our issue of Decem¬ 
ber 23rd, 1005, p. 559. 


NAMES OF PLANTS AND FRUITS. 


Names of plants. — //. J. B. Wills.— The Fennel¬ 
flower (Nigelia damascena). There is a white- 

flowered variety, also one with double flowers.- 

M. E.— Crinum capen.se.- W. B. Whitmore.— Cat- 

,alpa bignonioides.- Mist Chalmers.— 1, Thalictrum 

flavum; 2, Cimicifuga racemosa; S, Verntrum 
nigrum; 4, Chelone ohliqua alba.- Duncan David¬ 
son.— Nerinc undulata.- W. Wilson.— The growth 

you send is evidently that of an Odontoglossum. 
hut without flowers it is hard to say. You will 
find an article on the treatment of Odontoglossums 
in this issue; 2, Ccelogyne cristata.- La Rose. 

— Please send a fresh specimen.- II. Barratt. 

— Ornithogulum laeteum.- Miss W\ Wrench. 

— 1,' Sol id ago Virgaurea aurca; 2, Veronica suh- 
.sessilis; 3 and 5, specimens insufficient; 4, Arabis 
albida variegata; 6, Aster sp. When sending speci¬ 
mens for name you ought to number each one 

separately.- C. S. T.—3, Eriophyllum cflPBpitosum. 

formerly called Bahia lanata.- S. W. (if.—Specimens 

quite dried up.- Highweek.— We cannot undertake 

to name florist flowers.- De Pontibus.— Variegated 

Dogwood (Cornus Mas variegata). It is very likely 
choked up with other shrubs. Lift it and put it into 
a more open position. 

Names of fruit — Ealing.— French Crab probably, 
please send again later iti the season. You have 

picked the fruits far too soon.- Arthur Grant.— 

Judging from the small sound piece of the fruit you 

send, your Peach is. we think, Salway.- M. Hales 

(.Surrey).—I, Beurr6 d'Amnnlis; 2, Marie Louise; S, 
Bergamotte d’Esperen; 4, Comte de Lamy. 


Catalogues received.—R. Wallace and Co., Kiln- 
field Gardens, Colchester .—Catalogue of Lilies, Hardy 

Plants, and Bulbs. -F. Delaunay, Angers, France.— 

List of Fruit-trees, Roses, etc. 


Making a gravel tennis-court—Can any 

reader give me information on the making of sand or 
gravel tennis-courts as they are made abroad? I have 
to make one on a dry Surrey hill. The soil is a dry. 
rocky sand, which binds down and makes very good 
paths. Would it be sufficient to simply level and 
roll well? 1 am not allowed to use cement.— 
Gardener. 


GURUS ’ 8 

Record- 

Flowering 

BULBS 

FOR 

BORDERING 

OR 

BEDDING. 


Distinct and unique speci¬ 
alities in hardy Bu1«*h, 
suitable for any soil. All 

carefully selected 
and of large size. 

Buy now and you benefit con¬ 
siderably. Compare my prices 
with any other reliable firm. 

Tulips. 2 100 

Crocus. 1/1 100 

Hyacinths lGdoz. 

Narcissus 5-1.000 

Daffodils 1/- 100 

Snowdrops -. 2 - 100 

Ordors of 5s. Carriage Paid. 
Specially Rici.ectrd Assorted 
Parcels; 

79, 2 6; 188, 5 * ; 280, 7. 6; 436, 10 -; 

593, 15 - 

Write to-day for free 
Illustrated List (34-pp.). 

C. L. CURTIS, 

(73) Park Street, 

Cl 



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For all Purposes. 


All Greenhouses Rent at Ry. Co. risk, carr. paid, paying higher 
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Established 1851. 

SOUTHAMPTON BUILDINGS, HIGH HOLBORN, W.C. 

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allowed on Deposit Accounts. 

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All general Banking Business transacted;_ 

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NOTICE TO SUBSCRIBERS & ADVERTISERS. 


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Postals may now be purchased from sixpence each and 
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GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


No. 1,492.—Vox. XXIX. 


Founded by W. Robinson, Author qf “The English Flotcer Garden.' 


OCTOBER 12, 1907. 


IN DEX. 


Almond-tree fruiting .. 
Alouaoa Warwewiczii .. 
Aster puuiceus pulcher- 

rimus. 

Asters, perennial 
Azalea mollis from seed 
Begonia met&llica 
Brussels Sprouts 
Carnations for forcing.. 
Chrysanthemum maxi¬ 
mum . 

Chrysanthemum White 
Masse, early-dowering 
Chrysanthemums 
Chrysanthemums: treat¬ 
ment when under glass 
Chrysanthemums, white, 
yellow, and cruuni- 
coluured. 


438 



438 

Fruit-trees for wall 

438 

Unions . 

429 

Raspberry-canes, prun- 


437 



440 

Gage Dennistons -Su 


Uranges, Mock (Phila- 


ing . 

440 




43S 

perl> . 

438 

delphus). 

430 

Rhododendrons, moving 

440 

137 



Garden diary, extracts 


Orchids. 

433 

Romneya Coulteri in a 


438 



440 

from a 

439 

Orchids, growing 

433 

Cornish garden 

437 

440 



Garden pests and friends 

134 

Outdoor garden .. 

439 

Room and window 

433 

431 



430 

l larden rubbish, burning 

430 

Outdoor plants .. 

434 

Row-bed, carpeting a .. 

438 

429 



432 

Garden work 

438 

Palm, scale on .. 

440 

Rose bed, planting 

440 

440 

F.xacum macranthum .. 

432 

Grapes, late 

438 

Peach on paling, grow- 


Rose Crimson Rambler 





433 


431 

ing a . 

438 

budded on a Uanksian 

438 

437 


for 


Holiotrope out-of-doors 

437 

Peas, late autumn 

429 

Rose cuttings 

435 




433 

Hypericum Hookuria- 


Pelargonium, name of 

44U 

Rose Petit Constant .. 

430 

432 



438 

nuni . 

430 

Pelargoniums, Zonal, 


Rose Psyche 

435 

432 


fur 


Indoor plants 

431 

failure of 

432 

Roses . 

435 




431 

Leonard s Arens (Gemn 


Plant lorder, hardy .. 

438 

Roses. Christmas, fun- 


432 



438 

rivalo : Leonard s var- 


Plants and dowers 

431 

gus on. 

43-1 




439 

iely) . 

437 

Plants for bed .. 

43/ 

Royal Horticultural So- 



Fruit, gathering 

and 


Market gardeners’ loss 

430 

Potatoes, winter-rot or 


cicty . 

439 

432 

storing .. 


438 

Union seed saving 

430 

(Ncctria solani, Pcrs.) 

434 

Stove . 

438 


Salpiglossis grown in 

colours.437 

Statico latifolia (Sea 
l<aveuder) .. ..437 

Sycamore leaf - blotch 
(Rhytisma acerinutn) 4.34 
TabU- decoration .. 433 
Tree-Pieonies for pots.. 431 
Trees and shrubs .. 430 

Tritomo8.440 

United Horticultural 
Benefit and Provident 

Society.440 

Vegetable garden .. 439 
Vegetables .. .. 429 

Verbenas.440 

Weed in lawn .. .. 440 

Week's work, the com¬ 
ing .439 


VEGETABLES. 

BATE AUTUMN PEAS. 

The *eusuii now fast dosing has suited Peas 
during its whole course, anti now, at the end 
of September, they are plentiful. It is some 
years since 1 remember a year so favourable 
for Peas as 1907, for usually the summer 
drought causes a stunted growth, which in 
turn becomes the prey of mildew, more or 
less disastrous in its effects on the haulm 
and pods. There are varieties which are 
suitable for autumn culture when the nature 
of the soil and the season are favourable. 
Humidity of the air and surface of Hie ground 
has been characteristic of the past summer 
rather than heavily soaked subsoil, for it is 
a fact that though there has seemingly been a 
heavy rainfall, the soil, when dug deeply, is 
very dry. Indeed, this is so much the case 
that it would scarcely be credited, following 
as it does such an apparently dripping season. 

Some gardeners depend on sowings of early 
Peas for late supplies; others, again, find 
greater advantage from sowing late main 
crop varieties. In these respects much de¬ 
pends on soil and season. The early varieties 
will do well in some gardens ; in others they 
absolutely refuse to grow when the summer 
is a dry one, and soil conditions of like char¬ 
acter. I have tried these early Peas for late 
summer sowings without any success, and 
now depend chiefly on two or three kinds. 
Autocrat is highly thought of by gardeners 
generally for its quality, its productiveness, 
and, not least, its resistance to mildew—the 
bane of summer Peas. Its pods are not large, 
hut there is ample size in its shelled seed, 
a distinctly deep colour in its pods, and a 
quality beyond complaint. Gladstone is 
another Pea which in later years has become 
a most prominent autumn variety. Stocks, 
too, have been selected and much improved 
by the leading seed merchants, hence much 
more satisfaction and economy are found by 
choosing such a kind. This has less depth of 
pod colour, but there is greater length, and 
the characteristic curve makes it easily dis¬ 
tinguished. With me this this year has shown 
even greater resistance to mildew than Auto¬ 
crat, and has made so good an impression 
that the variety will be included in future 
selections. Carter’s Dreadnought is another 
fine blunt-ended dwarf nodded Pea. which has 
come to stay. This, like the preceding, has 
been good. Like most of the blunt-ended 
pods, this produces immense sized Peas, 
which are of good colour, and please the 
palate. Captain Cuttle is*a very similar Pea 
to Gladstone, and is found by some equal, or 
even superior, to that fine variety. All are 
possessed of good constitutions, an essential 
necessity in late Peas in any class of soil, and 
each is of dwarf growth—3 feet in normal sea¬ 
sons, and suitable ground. It cannot be 
denied that to grow late Peas successfully 
good soil, well manured, must be set aside for 
them—land that has not recently borne a Pea 
crop. Moisture, too, needs to be conserved 

Digitized by (jO' 'Q10 


by mulching, and often Celery like trenches 
are used for these late crops. Thus provided 
for, watering is an easy matter. 

West Wilts. 


ONIONS. 

The crops of these have, from both autumn 
and spring sowings, not been satisfactory. 
Cold weather, too much rain, and sunless 
skies were not favourable to bulb production, 
and whilst autumn-sown Onions largely rail 
to top or neck, or later split their bulbs, the 
spring sown ones failed to bulb well, and very 
largely gave more of top and stem than of 
bulbs. 1 noticed recently, when in the 
It.H.S. Gardens, Wisley, a very extensive 
breadth of some scores of rows, each one, 
presumably, distinct, though largely so only 
in name. In this breadth growth had been 
good, but then (the end of September) the 
plants were all green, and had produced bulbs 
very indifferently. So far as I can gather, 
that crop seems to be largely representative 
of many others from spring-sown seed, and, 
assuming that to be so, then it is evident the 
home Onion crop will be a poor one. No 
wonder the Brittany Onion pedlars are to be 
met with about the country in all directions, 
and no doubt they find ready sales for their 
well-ripened red bulbs. Although we may 
not have a similar season to the present one 
for some time, the wise gardener realises that 
it is well always to be prepared for adverse 
conditions. His first course should be, if 
anxious to secure a good Onion crop next 
year, to obtain seeds of a good stock of the 
Spanish or Globe type, especially such as 
Ailsa Craig, Excelsior, The Globe, and 
others, and also have prepared during the 
winter two or three 10-inch or 12-inch shal¬ 
low pans, with some clean drainage, and 
good, fine, sifted soil, composed of loain, two 
parts, the other part being old hot-bed 
manure, leaf-soil, and sand, all well mixed. 
Of course, there is no hurry, but it is well 
where it is purposed to make a winter sowing 
of Onion-seed to get all the requisites to¬ 
gether in good time. A first sowing in a 
frame or greenhouse may be made from the 
middle to the end of January, and a second 
one some time in February. Gardeners who 
aim to obtain specially fine bulbs sow early 
in January, but the amateur and cottage gar¬ 
dener will find the time stated early enough 
for them to obtain later fine 20-oz. to 24-oz. 
bulbs. Seed should be sown in the pans very 
thinly; indeed, a hundred seeds, evenly dis¬ 
tributed in a pan, are ample. So sown, the 
seedlings can remain in the seed pans, if stood 
in the full light and air. until the plants are 
4 inches in height, when they should be 
dibbled out 4 inches apart, into shallow boxes 
filled with compost similar to that named, 
but made fairly firm. These Onion-plants, 
stood in a frame or greenhouse, quite near 
the glass, and having ample air, will, by the 
end of April, be very stout, sturdy, and 
well rooted. They are then in fine condition 
for transplanting into well-prepared ground 


in the open. Some growers shake their 
plants free from the soil and dibble them out 
carefully into rows 15 inches apart ; others 
transplant with a trowel, and, if giving most 
trouble, it is, probably, the best way, as the 
plants the sooner get root-hold. 

Now, all this may seem trouble—ami, of 
course, nothing useful in gardening can bn 
done without trouble—blit, on the other hand, 
what is the gain? During the winter the 
ground may be deeply trenched, well manured, 
thou allowed to become thoroughly settled 
before the planting is done. Put out into 
rows 15 inches apart, shallow drills can 
rapidly be drawn with a. hoe and line, and 
thus the ground is quickly ready for plant 
ing. If the soil be very dry, it is well to soak 
these drills with water over night. Putting 
the plants out from 9 inches to 10 inches 
apart in the rows renders the troublesome 
work of thinning later quite unnecessary. 
The plants, having ample room and deep, 
rich soil, are enabled to produce exception¬ 
ally fine bulbs, and, not least, all trouble or 
loss incidental to attacks of the Onion-mag¬ 
got are avoided. Then, when the crop of 
bulbs is taken off at the end of August, by 
which time the bulbs are usually ready to 
pull, and dry, the ground is in splendid con¬ 
dition to receive Cabbage-plants, and thus 
carry a crop without further manuring or 
working for a whole year, at least, after. 
These are all striking advantages, and should 
influence all who regard the raising of Onion- 
plants in the winter under glass, and planting 
out in April, as being unnecessary labour. 


BRUSSELS SPROUTS. 

In many gardens sprouts are expected to¬ 
wards the end of September, but, given a 
month longer to mature, very much finer 
produce can be had. What prompts these 
notes just now is the rough treatment often 
given the plants at this season, the greater 
part of the foliage being pulled away to ad¬ 
mit light to the stems. While admitting 
that a few of the lowermost leaves may, with 
advantage to the plants, be removed, it is 
positively harmful to denude them as is 
sometimes done. These leaves will turn 
yellow betimes—that is, as soon as they have 
done their work—but to force them away 
wholesale is contrary to sound, practical gar¬ 
dening. The plants have made excellent 
growth thks season, and will doubtless supply 
nice, firm produce a little later, the recent 
hot weather having hardened the stems, thus 
giving them a much better chance of with¬ 
standing hard frost than they would have 
been able to do had the moist—and ono may 
almost say sunless—weather continued. 
Some advocate planting on a north border to 
give a late supply, but I have found the yield 
has been very poor, the buttons soft" and 
flabby. The plants cannot well have too 
much exposure to sun and air, and. what is 
more, plenty of space from plant to plant, 
2 feet 6 inches, and op very strong ground 
a yard each way is none too much. In gather- 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 

























October 12, 1907 


430 


» 

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


ing, always commence al the base, and only 
pick the buttons that are firm. There is 
generally a stray plant or so that only pro¬ 
duces leaf-growth. These can soon be de¬ 
tected. and should be pulled up. The plants 
would be much benefited by a day’s rain down 
West. Although the plants are particularly 
free of aphis this season, a white-fly similar 
to that attacking Tomatoes seems to be pre¬ 
valent. J. Mayne. 

Bicton, Dt'von. 


NOTES AND HETTIES. 

Burning garden rubbish I have a quantity of 
old garden refqse, and wish to hum it up. It is 
eomposed of sweepings, weeds, sticks, old vegetables, 
ctr., but 1 cannot get a lire to burn. 1 wish to know 
1 he best way to start swell a tire, and bow to keep 
it going until my heap of rubbish is all burnt, up? I’. 

[Previous failures are most probably duo 
to starting with a feeble fire and smothering 
this before it could bear the pressure. The 
start, ought, to be made with a good heap of 
old Pea stakes or two faggots of light fire¬ 
wood, piling these in a conical shape over 
some straw or dry Pea haulm. This alone is 
not sufficient, blit at least two faggots of 
heavy wood or its equivalent in other mode¬ 
rately heavy wood should be arranged on the 
lighter wood before lighting the fire. Directly 
flic light wood has caught alight, enclose the 
heap always conical -with some of the more 
woody,-lighter rubbish, so as to prevent the 
fire breaking through and burning out 
rapidly. On this may bn placed a thin layer 
of moister material, adding more wherever 
the fire breaks through, but never a. heavy 
weight at one time. During the first day nr 
two. and especially while the wood lasts, 
attention has to he paid to the* tire, and, later 
on, an occasional stir up is needed. Every 
evening a fresh covering of garden refuse 
should be put on, and in the morning, wher¬ 
ever it is burned through, more added. In 
this way a great heap of refuse of various 
kinds is gradually reduced to ashes, and in its 
place a smaller and more valuable mound of 
“burn-bake” or charred soil, charcoal, and 
wood-ashes is obtained. This material is a 
sure improver of soils ; the roots of all kinds 
of fruits, flowers, and vegetables revel in it. 
the plants deriving much benefit from its pre¬ 
sence in the soil.] 

Market gardeners’ loss.— Tomatoes on 
over 11,000 acres of land have been destroyed 
in the six home counties by the frosty spell 
which swept across the country in the oarlv 
hours of Monday morning, September 23rd. 
According to reports from these affec ted dis¬ 
tricts, the total loss sustained by Tomato- 
growers in the open cannot be less than 
£40,000. The outdoor Tomato crop this 
season, unhappily, was later than usual. Un¬ 
fortunately, the small growers suffer the most 
in' this rcepeet. In the same way. Runner 
Beams have been cut down, and the further 
fruiting capacity of the plants has been cur 
tailed. There will he no shortage of Toma¬ 
toes, because the glass-house supplies are 
heavy and ample* for all requirements. But 
values mav be expected to rise. Market gar¬ 
deners generally complain of the loess sus¬ 
tained from the frost. Such a sharp frost 
has not been experienced in September for 
many years .—The Standard. 

Onion-seed saving.— Owing to the coldness 
of the summer. Onion bulbs generally started 
into growth late, and the dull, dripping 
weather of July and much of August was not 
favourable to the fertilisation of the flowers. 
No doubt Onion-seed will be a poor crop this 
year—at least, at home, although, happily, 
our seedsmen do not depend on the produce 
of our uncertain climate for their stocks. 
Still, many gardeners and cottagers plant a 
few of their finest bulbs when they have a 
specially good stock. A farther trouble to be 
contended with is the tendency on the part 
of seed plants to be infested with mildew, 
and not infrequently it so eafs up the stems 
that they collapse ere the seed-head is per¬ 
fected. It is well, therefore, to have the 
stems and heads supported by stakes, and 
thus keeping them erect, prevent any waste of 
seed such as might happen if the heads fall 
over or some pods ripen before the general 
bulk. A piece of thin muslin tied over some 
of the hest«eed-headji^ an excellent precau¬ 
tion, ^spc^.ially wliefl seeg 



TREES AND SHRUBS. 

MOCK ORANGES. 

Philadelphia. 

There are several wild kinds so much alike 
in flower that there is a great confusion of 
names. No garden need contain more than 
the best kinds, all of which are now well 
known. Of far more importance than the 
natural species are the, many fine hybrid 
forms, valuable alike for their neat habit | 
and the fact that they bloom in a small slate, 
whereas the wild kinds seldom flower well 


The variety P. hirsutus, which wc figure 
to-day, is less showy than most kinds, the 
flowers being suialL and solitary. They are. 
however, borne 60 freely that a well-flowered 
specimen is very pretty, and the effect quite 
distinct from that of other kinds. A full 
account of the best wild kinds and the many 
hybrids that have been raised within tlfr* past, 
few years, will be found in our issue of De¬ 
cember 23rd, 1905, page 555. T. 

Hypericum Hookerianum. This is one of 
flic largest and boldest of the Hypericums, 
and, like most members of the genus, it 



Philadelphia hireutus. From a photograph in a Surrey garden. 


until they attain to a large size. All the 
kinds do best in light and rather dry soils,’ 
and, when planting, plenty of room should Ik 1 
allowed them, so that they may spread and 
droop, and if they grow too large, it is better 
to cut. the plants right down and start afresh 
than to hack them into ugly forms. Some 
of the older kinds, owing to their strong and 
heavy perfume, are unpleasant, if planted 
near the house, but Hie newer kinds are not 
objectionable. The Mock Oranges are easily 
increased by suckers, layers, or cuttings of 
soft wood rooted under glass during the sum¬ 
mer, or ripened wood inserted in the open 
during the autumn ; these last, however, re¬ 
quire about a year to root. 


flowers during the late summer and autumn 
months. It is a native of the Himalayas, 
where it is said to reach a height of 8 feel, 
hut in this eountrv ils usual stature is 4 feet 
to 5 feet. It is certainly a very handsome 
shrub, the ascending branches being clothed 
with reddish bark, and clothed with oblong 
shaj>ed leaves, which are, in vigorous 
examples, sometimes nearly 3 inches in 
length. The flowers, of which a succession is 
kept, tip for some time, are disposed in ter¬ 
minal corymbose clusters. Individually they 
are about a couple of inches across, slightly 
cup-shaped, whilp the rich golden-coloured 
petals are broad and of considerable sub- 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


0 




October 12 , 1907 


GARDENING ILLVSTRATED. 


<i.1i 



BEGONIA METALL1CA. 

This is one of the very beet of Begonias, 
either for summer or winter uee, and, in addi¬ 
tion to its flowers, its bronzy leaves make it 
a desirable plant for grouping along with 
others in the intermediate-house during win¬ 
ter and in the cool greenhouse during sum¬ 
mer. The flowers, which are of a light rosy 
colour, are set upon stalks sufficiently long to 
Allow them well up above the foliage. Young 
healthy plants of this Begonia growing in 
4A-ineh or 6-inch pots will be found to last a 
long time in flower when used in rooms or in 
windows, and small, neatly-grown plants of it 
are suitable for dinner-table decoration, the 
bronzy foliage looking well upon the white 
table-cloth. The flowers, too, when cut, are 
very useful. In order to keep up a supply of 


suitable for planting out against the back w all 
of a warm house, or to train up pillars or 
rafters. In order to obtain strong, healthy 
plants, wdiich will yield a supply of flower in 
a short space of time, select cuttings from old 
plants which had been previously cut dow r n. 
Cuttings made of shoots growing from the 
base of old plants will be found to root freely. 
Let them be 4 inches long, strike them in light 
soil, consisting of equal portions of good, 
turfy loam, and fibrous peat, sifted through a 
fine sieve, mixed with plenty of sharp silver 
sand. Fill 4|-inch pots with this compost, 
pressing it firmly into the pots, put a little 
clean silver sand on the surface, and water 
through a fine rose. The cuttings may then 
be inserted round the shies of the pots. Place 
the cuttings in a propagating-pit or house, and 
when rooted, pot them off singly into 3 inch 


Ileliconia illustris rubricantia. Prom a photograph in the gardens at StrafFan House, Co. Kildare. 


flowering plants all the year round, recourse 
must be had to cuttings. A few put in early 
in February will yield a plentiful supply of 
flow r ers during the summer and autumn if 
grown in a cool house or pit, and few plants 
can be found to grow- and flower more freely 
in a shady conservatory, heavily draped with 
climbers, than this Begonia. Another supply 
of young plants should he raised from cuttings 
put in about the middle of July, and kept 
growing on in a pit or house as close to the 
glass as possible. Pick off the flower-stems as 
they appear, which will induce the plants to 
grow more freely. At the end of October or 
beginning of November, place them in the 
coolest end of a plant, stove or intermediate- 
house, and if in good, healthy condition, they 
will be in full flower by Christmas, and will 
keep up a supply of bloom for six or eight 
months. 

This variety of Begonia will be found to be 


pots, using the same compost as for thp cut¬ 
tings, with a portion of leaf-mould added, but 
with lose sand. After potting, place the 
plants in the same temperature as before 
until they get well established, when they 
may be transferred to a cooler house and be 
shifted into larger pots. They will soon grow 
into useful flowering plants. When the pots 
got full of roots, they will be greatly benefited 
by being fed either with liquid-manure or 
with some other fertiliser. Under this treat¬ 
ment, strong, vigorous plants, full of bloom, 
will be the result. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 
Flowering bulbs for Christmas. -WilL 
you allow me to comfort your correspondent 
“Hope” (page 390, September 21st) with my 
] own experience in this matter? I pot my 
bulbs early in September. (They are now 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 


INDOOR PLANT8. 


Tree Peeonies for pots (E. M.).- Yes; these are 
lovely Brown in this way for blooming in March and 
April. Put into large pots and give liberal treatment 
when in growth. A cold-house will suit them. Hive 
shelter after blooming till severe frost is over. These 
PffiODies arc recommended to those who want spring- 
blooming plants and have Kul little glass 

Digitized by GOC 


io want spri 
ass space. 

.gle 


HELICONIA9. 


Some of the Heliconias are very ornamental 
plants for the stove by reason of their hand¬ 
some foliage. They are nearly allied to the 
Mu and some of them bear a general re¬ 
semblance to the dwarfer-growing members of 
that genus. They are not much known, and 
are but rarely met with in gardens, by far 
the most commonly cultivated being 

Hki.icoma aureo-striata , in which the 
leaves are of a deep green, the veins running 
from the midrib to tin 1 margin, marked out by 
yellow lines, thus forming, when in good con¬ 
dition, a really striking plant. 

A species, very distinct from the 
preceding, is 

H. METALLICA, which suggests 
a fine, bold, yet somewhat 
dwarf-growing form of Canna. 

The leaves are of a bronzy green 
tint, edged with red. They are 
slightly drooping, and the entire 
plant is altogether more grace 
fnL than 11. aureo striata. 

II. lLLUSTRia is in the way of 
II. aureo-striata, but the colour 
iug is altogether different. in* 
this ilie ground colour of the leaf 
is green, with the prominent 
mid rib of a beautiful shade of 
deep pink, while the veins arc 
also marked in a similar manner. 

The leaf stalks, too, are bright, 
pink. In the variety 

II. ILLUSTRia RIJBRICAlITiTS 
(here illustrated) the leaf stalks 
are of a bright vermilion-red, 
the leaf-blades rosy-red, the 
venation being a combination < f 
crimson-lake, vermilion, rose, 
and yellow, evenly distributed. 

H. Sanderi has the habit of 
H. illustris, differing only in 
being dvvarfer, broader in the 
leaf-blade, and in being marbled 
with creamy-white and rose on 
a glossy green ground. 

These Heliconias are by no 
means difficult, to cultivate, suc¬ 
ceeding best in a mixture of loam 
and well-decayed leaf-mould, 
with a liberal dash of sand. 

They dislike soil of too heavy a 
nature, and though the quality 
of loam varies a good deal, yet, 
generally speaking, equal parts 
of loam and leaf-mould will form 
a suitable compost. The pots 
should l>e w-ell drained, for the 
plants, while impatient of stag¬ 
nant moisture, yet. need plenty 
of water during the growing sen 
son. In the winter the soil 
should be kept moderately moist, 
hut nothing more. They must 
)>e shaded from bright sunshine 
throughout, the summer months, 
otherwise the leaves lose a good 
deal of their bright colouring. 

These plants are readily in¬ 
creased by division, and when 
it is intended to propagate them 
in this way, the early spring is a very suitable i 
time for the purpose. In carrying this out, as 
much of the soil should he shaken off as is 
necessary for tracing the course of the 
suckers, which must lie separated with a 
knife, with as many roots as possible attached 
to each. They must, then lie potted into suit¬ 
able-sized pots, and if plunged into gentle 
bottom-heat in a close ca*e till root action re¬ 
commences, so much the better. Instead of 
shaking off the sod, there is less liability to 
injure the roots if it is removed by holding 
the ball of earth underneath a tap, provided 
the water is warm. 





432 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


October 12, 1907 


potted.) They are put down in a cellar, after 
a good watering, and the bulbs covered over, 
to about 4- inch, with the material the bulbs 
are packed in. This keeps in moisture, and 
mice will not touch it. They are watered over¬ 
head with rose can about- twice between now 
and November 1st. Then the earliest flowerers 
(Roman Hyacinths, paper white Narcissi, 
etc.) are taken up and put in an unused bed¬ 
room facing north. The leaves soon become 
green, and the pots are scattered over the 
house in any room where there is a fire daily 
—kitchen, dining-room, study, etc. By Christ¬ 
mas (last year a good week before Christmas) 
the bulbs were in flower. I have only an un¬ 
heated greenhouse, into which the bulbs are 
never put, except to ripen off in the spring 
sunshine. My Narcissi (mixed) immediately 
succeed the Roman and other Hyacinths, and 
I have a show from bulbs alone from Decem¬ 
ber 15th till May 1st. They must not Ik* 
cheap bulbs, but got from a good firm, and 
potted in good soil quite early in the autumn. 
Of course, if “Hope” wants to grow for 
market, my plan wilL be of no use, but it may 
he to others, who are often unnecessarily dis¬ 
couraged because they have only an unheated 
greenhouse.—H. M. B., Hunstanton. 


Failure of Zonal Pelargoniums.— I am 

much indebted to Mr. A. Dean for his reply 
to my inquiry. It never occurred to me that 
road-sweepings off a nice flint road like the 
one where I live could be the cause of the 
trouble, but it certainly might be possible, 
as we are nbt free from this modern pest of 
the motor-car. On the other point, although 
I know r most of the books on floriculture, 
both ancient and modern, it did not occur to 
me to refer to a book like Peter Grieve’s 
“History of Variegated Pelargoniums,” pub¬ 
lished close on forty years ago, for informa¬ 
tion on growing the green Zonal nowadays ; 
and, indeed, I doubt if there is anything 
much to be found in it dealing with the 
trouble I complained of. I am still inclined 
to think that there is room for a modern 
treatise on the general cultivation of a popu¬ 
lar flower like the Zonal, which, for bedding 
and greenhouse decoration in the summer, is 
one of the most useful plants w’e London 
amateurs have, or, perhaps, can ever hope 
to have. From about May to November, in 
a favourable summer and autumn, it supplies 
us with every shade from white to dnrk crim¬ 
son in a way that no other flower does. At 
this moment I have two beautiful half-innon- 
sliaped beds full of Henry Jacoby blooming 
in rich profusion, and another of King of Den¬ 
mark. In the greenhouse, however, my 
trouble lay, hence my desire for some kind 
of modern manual on the subject, which 
could be consulted by others equally in¬ 
terested. One of the best writers on the 
Zonal is Thomson, in his handy book of “The 
Flower Garden,” but that is rather a more 
expensive book than the average amateur 
would care to buy for the sake of merely 
reading up the part solely relating to the 
Zonal.— Amateur. 

Exacum macranthum. —Though this 
Exacum is a native of Ceylon, it will succeed 
in a much lower temperature than one might 
fluppose. It is often referred to as a stove 
plant, and I was always under the impression 
that an intermediate temperature was neces¬ 
sary to its well-doing, but last spring, having 
some plants to spare, I placed them in an 
ordinary greenhouse with such things as 
Pelargoniums and Fuchsias. The result 
proved somewhat of a surprise to me, as the 
plants grew sturdily, and many of them have 
flowered in a perfectly satisfactory manner. 
Another pleasing matter was the length of 
time over which the individual blossoms re¬ 
tained their freshness, which, in some cases 
at. least, extended over a fortnight. The vivid 
purple flowers, with their prominent golden 
anthers, stood out in a marked manner from 


those of any other occupant of the green¬ 
house. This Exncum is frequently referred 
to as an annual, and the plnnts above alluded 
to were raised from seeds, but, still, cuttings 
can be readily struck in a gentle bottom-heat, 
and will grow away freely afterwards. In the 
cultivation of this Exacum ample drainage is 
necessary, for. when in full growth, it re¬ 
quires a liberal supply of water, yet, at the 

'ecidedly 
loam 


same time, stagnant moisture is 
harmful. A mixtur/ 

DlC 


uit moisture is decide* 

r ( °f fiy** f* ,ni 


and peat, with about half a part of sand, will 
suit this Exncum \yell. A moderate amount 
of shade during the summer is beneficial. 
Thrips sometimes give trouble, but they can 
be readily destroyed by vaporising.—X. 


CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

TREATMENT WHEN UNDER GLASS. 
Failures often occur just before flowering 
through faulty management- of the green¬ 
houses in which the Chrysanthemums are 
placed, if, for example, air be not admitted 
in abundance, the tops of the plants will run 
up spindly and soft, and the resulting flowers 
will be wanting in substance. A like growth 
follows when the buds are a long dis¬ 
tance from the glass, it is wise, therefore, 
to raise the plants to get them up to the light 
when the flowers are expanding. When first, 
housed, doors and top and front ventilators 
should he kept wide open night and day. 
During bright sunshine, when evaporation 
is so rapid, I find that good results are ob¬ 
tained by damping the floors, and even 
syringing among the foliage, if the position of 
the house, such as a lean to, is particularly 
hot. This damping is done in preference to 
giving much water at the roots, at least for 
a few days. It is well also to withhold 
manure for a week or so, the object being 
to keep the plants quiet, as it were, until 
they have recovered from the changed con¬ 
ditions from the moist and cool open air. 
Fumigating the houses once or twice is ad¬ 
visable, whether or not green fly is seen. If 
tUis is not done at first, this pest is almost- 
sure to come in great numbers later on, when 
fire-heat must be applied. A safe anti effec¬ 
tual method of fumigating is to use the XL 
All Vaporiser. It does not hurt the most 
tender leaves, and is easily managed. The old 
practice of employing Tobacco or Tobacco- 
rag or pajK*r, is decidedly clumsy compared 
with this later invention. I think the blooms 
of Chrysanthemums are the better for a 
slight shade. This should be put on at the 
first opening of the florets. Blinds which roll 
up and down at will are much better than 
fixed shadings, such as painting the glass, 
because light apart from bright sunshine is 
desirable. A temporary shade may be pro¬ 
vided for the few blooms that always open 
before the bulk, so that the latter may have 
the advantage of full light whilst the buds 
are yet swelling. Less air may reach the 
blooms as they open. The florets are easily 
cramped and spoiled by cold draughts; ven¬ 
tilation at this stage should, therefore, be 
guided by the front lights. A little top air 
should always l>e allowed, and as the danger 
from frost and damp becomes apparent, fire- 
heat. may be applied in such quantity as to 
keep a dry ami pleasant atmosphere. For 
example, 1 do not like to notice the pots damp 
or the leaves moist the first- thing in the 
morning. This tells me that- not enough heat 
has been given at night to dry up condensed 
moisture. This latter is sure to settle on the 
blooms and cause decay. A temperature 
much over 50 dogs, is not beneficial to the 
Chrysanthemum. Some of the Japanese 
kinds—especially when early buds have been 
retained—require more beat, perhaps, to open 
them properly, but this heat is given at the 
expense of substance and colour. Incurved 
kinds open much more satisfactorily in a 
temperature just warm enough to expel damn. 
Fire-heat tends to make the florets so thin 
that they reflex instead of turn inwards, thus 
failing in the more important quality. 

Some little may be done in assisting the 
opening blooms. The curling and curiously 
arranged florets of many of the Japanese 
cling together; if parted when opening, there 
is a gain in form. As they are developing, 
again, the incurving varieties may be assisted. 
A short or damaged petal can be pulled out, 
which would otherwise block the wav for a 
perfect one. This, in fact, is the best time 
to “dress” the blooms, as it is called. At¬ 
tention in this direction must, however, be 
constant. I would go over the blooms every 
day or two. The labour is necessary, and 
repaid if exhibiting be an object. All decay¬ 
ing foliage should be removed. Yellow 
bottom leaves do not add to the beauty of a 
plant. Side shoots usually come in all direc¬ 


tions after the plants are nnder glass. These 
may be removed ; they must rob the blossoms 
if left. 

StimulantH, which were withheld at first, 
should be given until the flowers are nearly 
open. When in good health, roots are seen 
running over the surface of the soil in the 
pots. Encourage these by every means. 
Weak doses of liquid manure or small quan¬ 
tities of fertilisers in the concentrated state 
will do this, but strong quantities will kill 
them. Quite recently 1 have seen a striking 
instance of this. A lot of exceptionally well- 
grown Chrysanthemums has been almost 
ruined by one application of nitrate of soda. 
It was sprinkled over the surface of the soil 
during showery weather. The leaves, which 
were of a healthy green, gradually assumed a 
sickly yellow hue, and the flower-buds re¬ 
mained stationary. All the -small roots were 
burnt. The latent strength of these plants 
will enable them to recover slightly, but with 
far different results in the shape of blossoms 
than would have been seen had all gone well. 
Nitrate of soda and sulphate of ammonia re¬ 
quire most careful handling. They are effec¬ 
tive in pushing growth and giving brilliancy 
of colour to the flowers, but. 1 never use either 
above the strength of an ounce to two gallons 
of w’ater. Damping of the blossonm gives 
trouble to many. The very dark-coloured 
vaiieties are liable to such decay as they 
open. Very bad cases, l am certain, are 
caused by the plants being overgrown. The 
stems, which may look pleasing to the eye, 
become stout, are often hollow in the centre, 
and the promising buds fail when they have 
arrived at a certain point. We rarely notice 
damping when Chrysanthemums are grown 
other than for huge blooms. II. 


NOTES AND IMPLIES. 

White, yellow, and cream-coloured Chrys¬ 
anthemums. Can you name a good early white, 
a cream, and a yellow (not of the Moss£ family) that 
will flower in September? 1 have E. B. Miller, Reine 
Blanche, La Pnrisienne (white). La Paetole, and Mit- 
chett Beauty (yellow); but these do not take the 
place of H. Martin or Ralph Curtis. 1 And Doris 
Peto and Market White the heat we have at- present, 
hut I want a yellow to take the place of H. Martin. 
— G. S., Bristol. 

[Roi des Blancs is a good white sort that 
should answer your purpose. Elstob Yellow 
is very similar in its character to the Masse 
family, bearing it free display of blossoms not 
unlike those of Horace Martin, and rather 
richer in the golden yellow colour. There is 
no better creamy-white sort than Fee 
Japonais. The flowers arc very pretty, 
having twisted florets, making beautiful deco¬ 
rative material. This plant is very free- 
flowering. The above - mentioned are 
thoroughly reliable.] 

Early-flowering Chrysanthemum White 
Mass6. This beautiful plant is known in 
some gardens as Wells’ Masse, although in 
others the name of White Masse seems to be 
recognised as the projier one. It is for this 
reason that both names are given in the pre¬ 
sent note. Last season my flowers were al¬ 
most entirely white, but, so far, this season 
they are tinted a faint buff colour. We saw 
it at Merstham last season, where many of 
the blossoms were perfectly white; other 
younger flowers, however, were tinted or 
shaded blush, and very pretty they were. 
This plant is said to be a sport from Mme. 
Marie Masse. My plants of White Masse ap¬ 
pear to possess more vigour than some of the 
other sports. Doubtlevss as the season ad¬ 
vances the flowers will be pure white. I have 
this newer variety growing side by side with 
other members of the Masse family, and find 
that- the flowers are quite distinct from those 
of the creamv white sport Ralph Curtis. - 
E. G. 


Daisies in lawn (Lawn Sand).—Thr only thine 
you can do is to grub out the roots. Then you should 
fork up the bare patches and work in some fresh roil. 
Any good garden soil free of weeds will do, and ill 
April sow freely some good Gross seed, not that from 
a hayloft, which is full of weeds. This you must pro- 
tect from birds with a few branches of trees or nets. 
If the soil generally ie poor, get a load of very old 
manure and another of fine soil, mix both together, 
and dress the lawn all over, sweeping it in well to the 
I roote with a hard broom. The slow and steady pro¬ 
cess of digging up the roots is the only one that is 
re dly effective, as your Daisies have most likely been 
allowed to seed,—the seeds only waiting favourable 
conditions for germinatmg. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




October 12, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


433 


I 



ROOM AND WINDOW. 

TABLE DECORATION. 

1 agree most emphatically with the note in 
the issue of August 24th, p. 338, in Gar¬ 
dening, on this subject. It is a protest in 
directly against pamphlets written ami 
papers read at meetings on the matter, which 
have given in many eases most extraordinary 
and incongruous combinations, utterly out of 
touch with good arrangement. For the last 
twenty-five years, in all matters connected 
with the above, I have endeavoured to com¬ 
bine taste with simplicity, and have seldom 
had a complaint. Daffodils, Tulips, or Poly¬ 
anthus respectively with own foliage and a 
bit of greenery in the way of outdoor Moss or 
Selaginella underneath, are had to beat in 
spring. Tastes differ as to the most, accept¬ 
able summer flowers for a similar purpose. 
Personally, I like Hoses, Lavateras, and 
Sweet Peas in the order named, and in each 


Queen Alexandra. This makes a very pretty 
decoration for a table, either with a bit of 
light foliage or associated with a few sprays 
of scarlet Salvia. 

E. Burrell. 


ORCHIDS. 

GROWING ORCHIDS. 

I HAVE purchased a few plants each of the follow- 
I iii); OrchidsCcrlojtyne cristata, Deiidrohium nohile, 
and JMeione. Could you please let me know the 
! temperature they require through the winter? The 
I Ccelogyne has made bulbs as large as Walnuts, and 
there are little shoots coming from the side. The 
Dendrobiums have finished their growth, and ttie 
Pleione is easting its foliage, and is also sending up 
shoots from the bulbs. 1 have been told to keep 
the last two dry. and water the Ccelogyne once a 
, week. Is this right? My house is a small span- 
i roofed one. and is given Tip to the above-named 
Orchid* entirely. 1 can keep it up to CO degs. 
throughout the frosty weather.—N kw Starter. 

[Your plants of Ccelogyne eristata, Dendro- 


dually lessened. By that time the flower- 
spikes will appear at the base of the pseudo- 
bulbs, but until these are seen to be pushing 
out freely, careful watering is necessary. As 
the spikes advance, eo increase the amount 
of water at the root, but when the flowers 
commence to open, very little wat,er is 
needed, as, if too much be given at this 
period, the flowers are liable to become 
spotted and useless. During the resting sea¬ 
son afford only just sufficient water to pre¬ 
vent the pseudo-bulbs from shrivelling too 
much. 

Place the plant of Dendrobium nobile in 
the lightest position available, where the 
sun will thoroughly ripen up the new 
growths, watering just often enough to pre¬ 
vent the roots from perishing or the pseudo¬ 
bulbs from shrivelling. A good watering 
about once a week will probably be sufli- 
cient for the npxt few weeks, afterwards less 
will suffice, until the flower-buds show', when 
a little extra moisture should be applied. 

The Pleione, which is now’ losing its 
foliage, should be elevated w r ell up to the 
light, and be afforded moderate quantities of 
water. The shoots which are pushing up 
from the sides of the pseudo-bulbs are prob¬ 
ably flower-spikes, which push up in con¬ 
junction with the young breaks, and as the 
flowers open, water should bo withheld. 
Pleione flowers are useful for buttonholes, 
and are easily gathered by giving them a 
gentle pull, when the stem will readily part 
from the base of the young growth, and will 
bn much longer than when cut. Immediately 
after the flowers are over, the plant should 
be repotted, if thought necessary to do so, 
and as the new shoots come away, the plant 
should be afforded generous treatment.] 


FERNS. 


VARIEGATED FERNS FOR THE WARM- 
HOUSE. 


Aster Ostrich Plume, 


case the shades may bo mixed, or only one 
used, as may be required. Certainly a table 
thoroughly well done, with an epergne or 
bowl, with accompanying vases of Mrs. 
W. J. Grant or Mme. Abel Chatcnay Roses, 
is very hard to heat. Later in the season 
Asters (annual), of which I like best the 
Cornet, Ostrich Plume (here figured), and 
.sinenfliH types; Asters (perennial), of which 
the corctifolius types are very good, many of 
thp bent forms of Sunflowers and Dahlias, 
both single and Cactus, are nil very accept¬ 
able. Montbretifts from early and late bor¬ 
ders. associated with Gypsophila or good 
types of Statice (Sea Lavenders), are excep¬ 
tionally light and pretty. In connection 
with Sunflowers, above-mentioned, 1 have not 
tried the new Helenium a. cupreum. My 
favourite for V 06 es is H. a. striatum, a very 
rich and showy flower. All the above are 
easily grown outside, and therefore within the 
reach of the majority of growers. A last 
word in favour of a flower that has come 
under my notice this season, Chrysanthemum 

Digitize 


season, Chrysantllemui 

Go. gle 


bium nohile, and the Pleione will be quite 
at home during the winter months in a tem¬ 
perature ranging between 50 degs. and GO 
degs.,# according to the conditions of the 
weather outside. When the thermometer in¬ 
dicates frost, and during very cold winds, 
when much fire-heat has to he used, the 
lower temperature is the better, ami the 
atmosphere inside, with the low temperature, 
should be correspondingly dry. At the same 
I time, if the hot-water-pipes have to be made 
] very warm to maintain the required heat, 
a sufficient quantity of water must be used to 
counteract its drying influence. During mild 
weather, when the house is at, or above, the 
| maximum temperature, the bottom ventilators 
j should be slightly opened, and increased gra¬ 
dually as the temperature ascends, but not 
so much external air should be admitted as to 
rapidly lower the inside temperature. The 
| Ccelogyne is still growing, and the plant 
j should be plentifully supplied with water at 
I the root until the new pseudo-bulbs are fully 
made up, when the quantity should he gra- 


Although, generally speaking, Ferns requir¬ 
ing stove temperature are not considered so 
useful, from a decorative point of view, os 
their congeners of a hardier constitution, the 
list of their variegated forms contains some 
equally well-marked plants, some of which 
are of easy culture. If we take the genus 
Adiontum, we find several nicely variegated 
forms, the most remarkable amongst them 
being 

A. MACROPHYLLUM ALBO STRIATUM, all 
extremely pretty form in which the fronds, 
rising from an underground creeping rhi¬ 
zome, attain from 12 inches to 18 inches in 
height. Their large and peculiarly-shaped 
leaflets are, like those of the type, of a deli¬ 
cate pink or red colour, which eventually 
attains a crimson hue ; but they are irregu¬ 
larly, but abundantly, striped with white, 
which variegation, besides being the prin¬ 
cipal ornament of the partially developed 
fronds, remains perfectly distinct and pro¬ 
minent when the foliage has assumed its per¬ 
manent bright green colour. In 
Pteris tricolor we have one of the most 
charming Ferns ever introduced into culti¬ 
vation. Although this handsome plant has 
been known in collections for upwards of 
forty years, it is only now and then that we 
i hear of someone having succeeded in grow¬ 
ing it to perfection, and, in mast cases, this 
happens seemingly without anything special 
| in the way of cultivation. Its well-being evi¬ 
dently depends more on local or climatic in- 
, fluences than on skilful treatment. As a 
proof of this, it may he stated that in some 
places where formerly this beautiful Fern 
. was thriving it will now hardly grow, in spite 
of unchanged treatment; whereas, in other 
places, where for years it only contrived to 
| exist, it occasionally makes a sudden burst, 
and for a season or so grows apace. In the 
I form and habit of this plant it resembles P. 
aspericaulis so closely as to leave no doubt 
as to its being a variegated form of that 
Fern, from which it is distinguished princi¬ 
pally by the brilliant colour of its fronds, 

I which sometimes attain 2 feet in length. 
These, when young, are of a purplish-red or 
bright rose colour, and when mature their 
I leaflets nre of a 1 viVid dark green at their 
edges, while their basal part is silver-grey, 










434 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


October 12, 1907 


their midrib being or a permanent bright 
purplish colour. The diversity of colours in 
the fronds in different stages of development 
at the same time on each plant greatly adds 
to its beauty. 

Pteris aRGYRKA, introduced from the East 
Indies, though lacking the extreme brilliancy 
of Pteris tricolor, may claim to be, per¬ 
haps, the most useful of variegated Ferns, 
where size is of some consideration. It is by 
far the more useful of the two East Indian 
forms, and is particularly well adapted for 
pot culture for decoration, its gracefully 
arching fronds under liberal treatment fre¬ 
quently exceeding 4 feet in length. On 
account of its remarkably well-defined and 
striking variegation, it is most effective, as 
the large band'of silvery-white in the centre 
of its fronds and leaflets forms a most pleas¬ 
ing contrast with the lively green by which 
it is surrounded in every part of the plant. 
Although sometimes recommended for grow¬ 
ing in a cool-house, where it thrives very 
well during the summer, this useful species 
evidently requires u higher temperature dur¬ 
ing the winter; its dislike to-cold is clearly 
indicated by the brownish colour which its 
fronds, even when mature, assume under cool 
treatment in winter. Another very prettily 
variegated form of Pteris is 
Pteris Victoria, a remarkably slender 
and graceful plant of small dimensions, pro¬ 
ducing two entirely distinct sorts of fronds, 
the barren ones being few in number, small, 
and prostrate, while the fertile ones, upright, 
and abundant, are 12 inches to 15 inches 
Jong, and composed of narrow leaflets about 
a quarter of an inch broad. They are parti¬ 
cularly attractive on account of their silver 
markings, which are conspicuous throughout 
the plant. Although it reproduces itself 
freely from spores, this Fern is given to varia¬ 
tion, and some of the seedlings raised from it 
are thoroughly distinct, as'in the case of 

Pteris Regina, which is of much more 
vigorous constitution, and in which the 
variegation runs in narrow stripes to the mar 
gins of the leaflets, showing very little, if 
any, of the green border noticeable in P. 
Victoria. 

Pteris Regina cristata, another form, 
with beautifully and distinctly variegated 
foliage, is of a more slender nature, and very 
elegant habit, on account of its fronds being 
very prettily and regularly crested. 

Pteris nobilis, or, as it is more commonly 
called, Doryopteris nobilis, is another hand¬ 
somely variegated Fern requiring stove tem¬ 
perature. It is a native of Southern Brazil, 
and, so far as general appearance is con¬ 
cerned, totally different from other Pterises. 
Its fronds, borne on naked, wiry stalks, vary 
considerably as regards shape and size, 
according to the age of the plant on which 
they are produced. In its young state it 
only produces single, heart-shaped fronds, 
and the next ones arc sagittate or arrow- 
shaj>ed ; while those eventually developed are 
hull»ert-shaped and finally somewhat palmate 
in form, with the terminal and the upper 
lateral leaflets entire and the lower lateral 
ones divided into two or four spear-shaped 
segments on their lower side. They are of a 
bright green colour, and their broad, slightly 
undulated segments are ornamented through¬ 
out their entire centre with a broad white 
hand, which gradually diminishes in intensity 
towards the edges. 

To the above list of variegated Ferns may 
nlso be added the variegated forms of Sela- 
ginellas, as they are closely related, and | 
thrive under the same treatment. Besides 
the golden and the silver forms of the com¬ 
mon Selaginella, respectively called S. 
Kraussiana aurea and 8. K. variegata, which 
during the winter require to be kept close to 
the light in order to prevent their damping 
off, tl io most popular, the most useful, and 
the best known is S. Martensi variegata. 
This variety has retained the habit and 
vigour of the typical plant, which is of erect 
habit, but the dark green leaves which clothe 
the succulent stems, which on their under¬ 
side produce a great quantity of roots, are 
profusely blotched with creamy white—a 
character which, though not quite* constant, 
is readily reproduced by means of cuttings, 
which root freely in a light, porous soil and a 
warm, moist atmosphere 

Google 


GARDEN PESTS AND FRIENDS. 

SYCAMORE LEAF-BLOTCH. 

(Rhytisha acerinum.) 

The conspicuous black spots, resembling 
blotches of pitch, which are eo common on 
living leaves of the Sycamore and Maple, are, 
probably, familiar to everyone, although not 
always associated with the work of a parasi¬ 
tic fungus. These blotches, however, are due 
to the fungus Rhytisma acerinum. Fries., the 
damage done by which is not generally 
recognised. 

Description and i.ife history. Towards 
the end of June, small yellowish patches ap¬ 
pear on infected leaves; these patches in¬ 
crease in size until they are half an inch or 
more in diameter, and gradually darken in 
colour, until finally they become almost jet- 
black, with a border of dingy yellow. The 
substance of a fully-formed patch is much 
thicker than that of the leaf proper, owing to 
a crust formed by the fungus. The surface 
of the patch is wrinkled or corrugated, and, 
during the summer, produces myriads of very 
minute, spore-like bodies, the function of 
which is unknown. They have not been seen 
to germinate, and seem incapable of causing 
infection. During the following spring, after 
the dead leaves have been lying on the ground 
throughout the winter, spores of another kind 
are produced in the substance of the black 
patches. These spores escape into the air 
through gaping cracks, and if they happen to 
alight on suitable young leaves, infection 
follows. A second fungus, Rhytisma puncta- 
tum. Fries., also forms largo black blotches 
on living leaves of Sycamore and Maple ; it 
is distinguished by the black patch not being 
continuous, but composed of numerous 
minute, distinct black spots, crowded together 
on u yellowish groundwork. The two species 
or fungi are not infrequently present on the 
same leaf. 

Damage done.— When the disease is pre¬ 
sent, almost every leaf on the tree is usually 
infeeted, and consequently a considerable 
amount, of leaf surface is prevented from 
doing its work; and, in addition, diseased 
leaves fall early in the season. As the disease, 
unless checked, continues from year to year, 
the tree becomes enfeebled through lack of 
food, and then becomes an easy prey to a 
yet more destructive parasite, the coral-spot 
fungus (Nectria cinnabarina), which almost 
invariably follows an epidemic of leaf-blotch. 

Prevention.— The method for preventing 
a continuance of this disease is both simple 
and effective. As already stated, the young 
leaves are infected in spring by floating spores 
which escape at that season from dead leaves 
which have been lying on the ground during 
the winter. If all such dead leaves are col¬ 
lected and burned directly they fall in the 
autumn, or, at latest, before the young leaves 
unfold in the spring, the disease will be 
arrested .—leaflet of Board of A grirvlture 
and Fisheries. 


WINTER ROT OF POTATOE8. 
(Nectria solani, Pers.) 

This fungus is one of the commonest diseases 
of the Potato. It attacks stored Potatoes, 
and is always present to some extent, but 
usually ‘ only reaches the proportion of an 
epidemic during hot, dry seasons, which 
favour the rapid development and spread of 
the fungus. The tubers only are attacked, 
and inoculation, by spores present in the soil, 
takes place when the tubers are young ; but, 
ns a rule, the disease is not obvious when the 
tubers are lifted, although the mycelium of 
the fungus is present in the tissues. The 
further extension of the disease depends en¬ 
tirely on circumstances. If the Potatoes are 
kept dry and exposed to the air, no further 
development, takes place. On the other hand, 
if they are stored or placed in heaps so that 
air is practically excluded, and more especi¬ 
ally if stored before being perfectly dry, 
sweating takes place, the temperature is 
raised, and within a few weeks the mycelium 
present in the tubers commences grow th. 

Description and life-history. -The first 
external indication of disease is the gradual 
depression and shrivelling of a portion of the 
surface of the tuber ; these sunken portions 
are soon covered more or less with white 


patches of the fungus, bearing myriads of 
spores, which are quickly distributed by mites 
and other minute creatures. At a later stage 
the white tufts change to a pale pink colour, 
and produce a second crop of spores, which 
in like manner are distributed through the 
heap of Potatoes by inites, etc. By such 
means the disease quickly spreads, and, aided 
by bacteria, the tubers are soon reduced to 
a soft, foetid mass, the skins alone remaining 
intact. During the following season the 
most perfect stage of the fungus, in the form 
of minute crimson-red points, develops on the 
skin of diseased tubers. The spores of this 
stage germinate in the soil and infect future 
crops. 

Prevention and remedy.—(1) The best 
preventive against an attack of winter-rot is 
to make certain that the Potatoes are well 
dried before storing. Powdered sulphur, if 
sprinkled over the tubers at the rate of 2 lb. 
to the ton, will destroy the fungus and also 
hold in check mites, woodliee, etc., which, 
by their movements, convey the spores from 
one Potato to another. ‘‘Pits” or “clamps” 
should always be well ventilated. (2) Land 
that has produced a diseased crop will cer¬ 
tainly be infected, and Potatoes should not 
be planted in it again for some years. Kninit, 
or lime, may be applied to infected land. 
Both'destroy the fungus. The former is the 
more effective, and when land is infected this 
manure should be used in preference to snl 
pliate or muriate of potash ; but the quantity 
should not exceed 5 cwt. toG cu t. per acre, or 
the quality of the Potatoes limy he injured. 
Kainit may l>e applied in the drills before 
planting; but, in this ease, where it. is re¬ 
quired both as a manure and a fungicide, it 
would, probably, be better to apply it as a 
top dressing before the horse-hoe is used for 
the lust time. If the land needs potash, and 
especially if the Potato crop is to he followed 
by a crop likely to be benefited by potash, as. 
e.</., barley or mangolds, a dressing of kainit 
may be applied to the infected land as soon 
as the Potatoes have been lifted. If potash 
is not required, and if the land is likely to he 
benefited by lime, then it would bo desirable 
to dress the affected field with from 1 to 3 tons 
of lime per acre.— Leaflet of Board of Agri¬ 
culture and Fisheries. 


Christmas Roses, fungus on.— Will you kindlv 
tell me what b wrong with my Christmas Roses? I 
enclose some leaves: fifty or sixty clumps are nil like 
this—not a fresh-looking leaf among them. They are 
H. ni«er maxima*, and were taken up two years ago 
and replanted into good fresh soil, rotted manure and 
sand being dug in first, as the gardener thought they 
were not flourishing and that they required to be 
lifted and given fresii soil. They are just the same as 
before. I always put a large frame over part of the 
plantation in September or Oc tober, but the plants 
did badly even under this last winter. They are 
planted in a broad border, facing south-east, and 
sheltered by a high old Beech-hedge at east sub-. 
There were many green flies on the back of one «,r 
these leaves, and also some on three immense clumps 
of Helleborus orientulis close to these, but the latter 
seem in robust health.— Mrs. H. H. 


[Your plants are badly attacked by the leaf 
fungus which is so harmful to the Christmas 
Rose, and this season the plants arc suffering 
to an extent which is quite exceptional. All 
you can do at the present time is to clear 
away all the affected leaves and burn them. 
It is most important that every vestige of the 
diseased foliage be gathered up and burnt, 
and in this w ay endeavour to keep the disease 
in check another year. When the disease ap¬ 
pears in early summer, much harm is done 
to the plants, and these are, in consequence, 
greatly weakened; but less harm ensues when 
the disease does not put in an appearance till 
August. One instance came under our notice 
this year, during the cold and uncongenial 
July weather, of a huge tuft 2} feet across 
being completely overwhelmed with the 
disease in less than a week; and, curiously 
enough, another fine clump, the leaves of 
which in some instances touched the other 
plant, remained absolutely healthy. The 
disease in the above-named instance appeared 
to start, at the ground-level, and we rather 
fear a heavy watering with cold water late at 
night was the cause. You had better obtain 
from the seedsman or sundriesnmn a supply 
of sulphide of potassium, and spray the soil 
round about and into the clumps. Another 
season use the same material at intervals 
from the end of April. When sending 
queries, kindly write on one side of the paper 
only.] 

INIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 


:ha 


Digit 


October 12, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


435 


ROSES. 

ROSE PSYCHE. 

This is a seedling from Crimson Rambler, 
and almost as vigorous in growth. It greatly 
resembles Crimson Rambler in foliage. The 
flowers, produced in huge clusters, as may be 
seen from the illustration we give to-day, 
are rose-pink in colour, each petal suffused 
with salmon and yellow at tho baee. For 
planting and training over tho top of a tree 
let into the ground, so that the sprays may 


ROSE CUTTINGS. 

The present is a good time to insert Rose- 
cuttings, and if no time is lc6t in getting 
them planted, there should be a good per¬ 
centage of them root. Where it is possible 
to select the spot, a border a yard or two 
away from a wall facing east would be best 
for the hed; but if that is not practicable, 
then make up a bed. in the open garden, 
where the cuttings can be shaded a little from 
mid-dav sun if possible, although this is not 
really essential. The soil should bo well dug 
over first, and a liberal amount of leaf soil 


wood, or cut it as near to the old wood as id 
practicable. 

There need be no foliage, although it is 
a help if a leaf can be retained near the top 
of the cutting. I would not advise the at¬ 
tempt with many sorts of Tea Roses so late 
as this, but the Hybrid Teas of the Mme. Abel 
Chatenay and Caroline Testout groups strike 
freely enough if inserted now. Do not put 
any frame or covering over the cuttings ; but 
in winter a good layer of leaved or bracken 
will be a good protection. After about fifty 
of the futtings are made, they should be 



Pose Psyche. From a photograph by F. Mason Good, Winchfleld, Hants. 


droop down in regular showers of blossoms, 
this Rose is well fitted, and shows off its 
beauty to far greater advantage than when 
trained in a etiff and formal manner. For 
covering arches, fences, trellises, etc., this 
variety is most useful. Unfortunately, this 
class of Rose is usually seen a mass of growth 
all matted together. Their great beauty, to 
my mind, lies in the pendulous flower-laden 
branches being well thinned, so that each 
growth is distinctly visible, thus giving the 
tree an artistic effect when given a suitable 
position in the garden. T. 

zed by GOUgle 


and road or other sand incorporated. Having 
thus prepared the bed and provided for it 
some artificial drainage if the border is likely 
to be waterlogged, level the soil, and it is 
then ready to receive the cuttings. A great 
deal depends upon the selection of the wood, 
and a really successful result can only be ob¬ 
tained by experience. The growths mo6t suit¬ 
able are those little more than half ripe—that 
is to say, not the very hard, brown wood, but 
that which has borne flowers some few weeks 
ago. Take the cuttings, if possible, with a 
“heel”— i.e.f a portion of the last season’s 


planted, and, if it continues dry, water 
them with a rose on the water-pot. 

When planting, set out in rows about fi 
inches apart, and the cuttings about 2 inches 
apart from each other. If the cuttings are 
from 4 inches to 6 inches long, this will do 
very well. I usually like to put them so 
that there is not more than 1 inch protruding 
at the top. Plant them very firmly in the 
rows, and tread soil against them with the 
foot, but leave the surface rather loose. 
Another good poinh to |remember is to put a 
little sand in the trenches when planting, so 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


)igiti 





43 G 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


October 12 , 1907 


Hint the ends of the cuttings stand in sand. 
All tlies Wichuraiana and Rambler Roses 
fitrike meat freely, also the Penzance Briers. 
Many of the Hybrid Pcrpetuals, such as Frau 
Karl Drusohki, Ulrich Brunner, Mrs. John 
Laing, will root without any trouble. These, 
will blossom next summer, and can bp trans¬ 
planted the same autumn, hut it would Ik* 
better for them if they were not moved for 
another year. Always remember to have 
plenty of gritty material in the cutting bed. 
and, where not naturally drained, it is a go<xl 
plan to excavate the soil and put in about 
6 inches of stones, broken bricks, etc., to pro¬ 
vide a good drainage. This would last for 
some years, ns the same lied could lie utilised 
annually if just turned over to sweeten the 
soil. Rosa. 


NOTES AN1) REPLIES. 
Carpeting a Rose-bed- — I have a larpe Hone- 
bed hi the centre of my lawn, and, havinp nothing 
in it lint Roses, it has a hurt* and nnfiimishini look 
during several months of the >ear. Kindly Jet me 
know if it would be |»or missihle to grow other plants 
in it? If so. will you please tell me the best plants 
to grow to look well, ami, at the same time, not to 
interfere with the Hoses? I am told that bulbs are 
sometimes used for that purpose. What kind of 
bulbs would lie suitable?— K. K. BROWNE. 

[You can use Tufted Pansies, in which the 
flowera arc so varied in colour that there is 
no difficulty in making a pleasing contrast. 
You have also Auhrietias in many shades, 
dwarf Harebells, Alpine Phloxes, mossy Saxi¬ 
frages, tlie Foam-flower (Tiarella), Veronica 
prostrata and V. repons. Wo have also used 
Carnations, the foliage of which is very pleas¬ 
ing during the winter. Daffodils are the best 
bulbs to plant among the Roses if you want 
tall flowers, but you can use Chionodoxas, 
Scillafl, and many other dwarf growing bulbs, 
which make a fine carpet oi bloom in the 
spring.] 

Rose Crimson Rambler budded on a Bank 
sian. —I will be glad to know if r Crimson Rambler 
budded on to a Banksian is generally successful? 1 
have tried several, and always failed. Do you con¬ 
sider from the middle of August to the end of Sep¬ 
tember too late for budding?—BlIDDAII. 

[We have never tried to bud the Crimson 
Rambler on to the Banksian. We do not see 
why it should not grow on this Rose, but you 
must remember that, to obtain success in bud¬ 
ding, there must be a free flow of sap in the 
stock. Now, as the Banksian Rose is so very 
early in making its growth, possibly the cause 
of failure has been that tin* bark did not run 
freely. When we have budded Mareehal 
Niel, Cloth of Gold, and some of the delicate 
Tea Roses on the Banksian, we have usually 
done this in the month of June. Generally 
speaking, August and September are not too 
late for budding seedling Briers on other 
stocks that grow late, but for standard Briers 
and such like, July is the best month.] 

Rose Petit Constant. —This is an ex¬ 
tremely pretty Polyantha Rose, and yields a 
profusion of most charming trusses. In 
colour it calls to mind lTdeal in bud, but 
when expanded the flowers are a lovely 
Apple blossom pink. It makes a charming 
edging to a bod of standard Roses or for bor¬ 
dering walks. Just now, at the end of Sep¬ 
tember, it is very beautiful, and promises to 
continue so for some time to come if the 
frosts keep off. 1 am glad to find that these 
dwarf Polyantha Roses arc being more ex¬ 
tensively planted. Nothing in the Rose way 
can he more interesting, for they are a« per¬ 
petual as a China Rose, and possess such a 
neat, compact habit of growth. Mme. 
Georges Pernct is another little beauty. It 
is rather a large bloom when compared to 
such a.s Gloire des Polyantha, but the buds 
are very email. The colour is a lively rosy- 
praeh-pink, with a distinct yellowish shading. 
Gloire dew Polyantha is one of our host 
autumnal Roses for a mass of colour. Just 
now the plants are sending up from the base 
fine, strong 2-feot high shoots, bearing such 
wonderful trusses of blossom, each one a per¬ 
fect bouquet. Where this Rosj has been 
planted in large numbers it must now be a 
grand picture. All of these Roses are best if 
moderately pruned, cutting them back to 
within about 15 inches of the ground each 
year. If left unpruned, they will develop 
into quite largo, round bushes, but the blos¬ 
soming is not so profuse, whereas bv pruning 
we induce those growths from the base that 
are the chief glory otrtlTh tribe. 

Digitize 1 by (jCK 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 


CACTUS T)ATIUTAS FOR GARDEN 
DECORATION. 

Judoino by the results seen of the trial con¬ 
ducted in the Royal Horticultural Gardens, 
at Wisley, this season, of both new and old 
Cactus Dulil ias. the prospects of their becom¬ 
ing really valuable for garden decoration 
seem very remote. Cactus Dahlias have the 
inherent vice of carrying their blooms on 
short, weak stems, and of sending up about 
the flowers new growths so rapidly that by 
the time flowers are fully expanded they arc 
largely lost in the new growths about them. 
At Wisley the real trial was restricted to 
varieties put into commerce during the past 
three or four years, hence it may Ik* assumed, 
seeing that tin* collection was contributed to 
by the chief raisers, that the host habited of 
their kind would be seen. Beyond the fact 
that the plants of the newer varieties were 
rather more robust than were those of old 
varieties grown beside them, it. was difficult 
to find any improvement in habit, although 
some had flowers more nearly alike to what 
arc regarded as the show quality of to-day. 
But those who remember Amos Perry (scar¬ 
let) and Matchless (maroon) may learn that, 
not a new variety showed any improvement 
on these two older ones, and if the rate of 
progress now seen is to Iw* that of the develop¬ 
ment of the Cactus Dahlia as a garden flower, 
then the prospect of getting such a race as is 
desired is remote indeed. The few varieties 
to which awards of three marks were made, 
when a few days since scon l>y a joint body of 
the members of the R.H.S. and National 
Dahlia Society committees, were Lustre 
(scarlet), Meteor (terra-cotta), A. D. Stoop 
(crimson-scarlet), Primrose (soft sulphur- 
white), and Mrs. J. S. Brunton (straw-yel¬ 
low). That was by no means an encouraging 
result, especially as a good deal of debate 
over each award was evoked, showing that 
the decorative form desired was none too evi¬ 
dent. No doubt the trial suffered because 
the plants were got out late, and the cold 
season had checked growth. To have a fair 
trial florists should send in their plants in 
April, that they may be got at once into 
larger pots and be grown on, and bo from 
12 inches to 15 inches in height, and very 
strong when planted out early in June. Rtill, 
to use a common simile, it seems doubtful 
whether the game will ever he worth the 
candle. Were a good collection of Pompon 
Dahlias grown beside 4he Cactus forms, it is 
obvious the comparison would Ik* so striking 
that the latter would greatly suffer in con¬ 
sequence. 

Judging by what wns seen of but one row, 
and but one plant of each, of the new large- 
flowered or Pieony section of Dahlias, these 
promise to make by far the showiest for gar¬ 
den purposes. Varying in height from 2 feet 
to 4 feet, the flowers large, borne on stout, 
long stems, and well above the foliage, these 
present material far more worthy the atten¬ 
tion of the raiser for the object in view than 
the Cactus forms do or, probably, ever will. 
Of this section the flowers consist of broad, 
flatfish rav petals, some being single, others 
semi-double, but all being very pleasing in 
colours. A few very striking were Nicholas 
(pure white), King Leopold (pale yellow). 
Paul Kruger (white ground, heavily flushed 
with rosv-red), Queen Emma (apricot), Duke 
Henry (crimson), and Dr. Van Gorken (soft 
peach). For vase decoration associated with 
such things as perennial Asters these large 
Dahlias arc very effective. 

It does not do lo have all garden flowers, 
oven Dahlias, judged from the exhibition or 
florists’ standards. Thus there is a double- 
flowered section of Dahlias, commonly termed 
“decorative,” of which even now the old 
Glare of the Garden is one of the most effec¬ 
tive, the flowers of which florists will not 
look at, but which, produced in remarkable 
abundance on the plants, become striking ob¬ 
jects in garden borders. There is also the old 
section of double-flowered bedders, such rs 
Crystal Palace (white, scarlet, purple), and 
others. These in their way give finer effects 
than the best Cactus forms do. It is, there¬ 
fore, quite obvious that if garden decorative 


forms are to be sought for, the florists’ ideas 
as to form or doubleness must be thrown to 
the winds. A. D. 


PERENNIAL ASTERS. 

A trial of several hundreds of plants, and 
probably 150 or more varieties, of perennial 
Asters lias been conducted in the Royal Hor¬ 
ticultural Society’s gardens, Wisley, this 
season. In looking over the collection, it 
seems so desirable that at one stroke of the 
pen one-half of the varieties should be dis¬ 
carded, and the remainder severely whittled 
down much further from year to year. In 
spite of the free-seeding qualities of the 
plants, novelty in colouring or in general 
character of plant or flower seems rare. At 
Wisley one variety stands out so markedly as 
new and distinct that it obtained the rare 
award of a first-class certificate. It is a 
genuine double-flowered variety, named 
Beauty of Colwell; height about 5 feet, 
flowera of good size, and of a pale blue colour. 
If this variety should become the parent of 
other doubles and of diverse colours, then 
will it be a valuable addition. Others spe¬ 
cially good os singles were Lil Fardel], 
mauve-pink; Robert Parker, pale mauve; 
Amelins major, a mass of soft blue flowers, 
dwarf; St. Egwin, soft pink, a mass of 
flowers ; Vimineus nanus, small white flowers, 
borne on long sprays; Cotterollo blanche, 
pure white, very free; Brightness, medium 
height, eoft lavender; and the early dwarf 
Aeris, with its Cactus-like petals. Possibly 
a« many others might be selected later as 
good as these ; still it. is evident that the col¬ 
lection badly needs severe pruning. Raisers 
should devote their energies to securing more 
striking colours in the flowers, also rather 
more of size. Too many of the plants also 
are very tall. D. 


HARDY PLANT BORDER. 

I HAVE a border in kitchen garden, about 40 yards 
long by 4 feet wide, and 1 want to make this into a 
beautiiul hardy border, growing only the best things, 
and to have a succession of bowers as long as pos¬ 
sible. Would you kintily advise how to set about 
the planting, and give the names of plants, bulbs, 
etc.?—E. Bowers. 

[In the first place, it is necessary that the 
soil be trenched to quite 2 feet deep, and 
plenty of manure buried as the work proceeds 
at, about 12 inches deep, or rather Jess. You 
have not stated the nature of the soil, whether 
light or heavy; but, if the latter, a very con¬ 
siderable addition of light material, as burnt 
refuse, or grit, should be added, to render 
the whole more workable and genial to the 
larger number of plants. With the border 
thus prepared, the planting could follow. A 
width of 4 feet does not admit of more than 
the ordinary netting out of rows of plants, 
though, in some measure, a certain infor¬ 
mality could be created by a free grouping of 
the larger subjects in the background. What 
is meant is that you Ret out of each subject 
selected three, five, or more plants to form a 
group, arranging the individuals at intervals 
of 1 foot or more, and so placing them that 
they cover a rather large ground area. By 
these means, when grown up. a more natural 
grouping would appear, minus the more fre¬ 
quent. formal arrangement. If you follow 
this idea, your border might contain three 
main rows of plants, the “rows” in this in¬ 
stance being regarded os an approximate 
centre, around which the groups could be 
arranged. In this way your back row might 
contain the Sunflowers in variety, more par¬ 
ticularly Helianthus multiflorus and its varie¬ 
ties, to the exclusion of the more rambling 
H. rigidus forms, H. tomentosus, H. orgy 
alia, the taller Heleniums, as autumn ale and 
uiidiflorum, Delphiniums in several good 
kinds, Kniphofias, Hollyhocks, and, if de¬ 
sired, a few Rambler Roses on rough poles 
at intervals. Boeconia cordata, Aconituin 
Wilsoni, Anehusa italics (Dropmore variety), 
and the like would also lie effective. If more 
were required, a selection of Michaelmas 
Daisies and the white and red perennial Pea 
could be added. These should be so arranged 
that a space w r oukl lie left between each 
group, so that the groups of row No. 2 could 
alternate with those of the back row. Thus 
arranged, no Buspicjcm of a line would be 
visible from either end of the border. The 
fcecond row should be made up of JTeonies, 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 





OcroBF.n 12, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


437 



Inearvillea Delavayi, Gnltonia candicons, 
Heliopnis H. B. Ladhams, H. scabra, Cam¬ 
panula lactiflora, C. grandis, C. g. alba, C. 
Van Houttei, Japanese Anemones of sorts, 
Iris orientals, white and blue Lupins, 
Dietamnus Fraxinella, Geranium ibericum. 
Iris a urea, I. Monnieri, I. ochroleuea. the 
Flag Irises in several good kinds, Hemerocal- 
lis luteola, H. fla'va. such Lilies as croeeum, 
testaoeuni, Martagon album, colchioum, 
Henryi, Hansoni, pardalinum, ete., single 
and double Pyretbrums, and many more. In 
the front, row. Megaseas. Aubrietias, Zainseh- 
neria, Hepatic a. Adonis vernalis, Aneniono 
apennina, Heueberas, Tiarella, Double 
White Roc-kct. Candytuft, Colchieums, 
Christmas Roses, any of the dwarfer Cam¬ 
panulas, Achillea alpma, Sednm spertabile, 
Trollius, Veronicas. Inula glandulosa, 
Arnebia ccliioide.s, Thalictrum adiantifolium, 
T. aqttilegifolium. and such like could be 
arranged on similar lines. In addition, you 
might select a score of varieties of Narcissi, 
and these, with Tulips, Musearis, Fritillarias, 
Chionodoxas, and other bulbous-rooted sub¬ 
jects, complete a border that would not only 
he attractive, but would afford variety ami 


ASTER PUNICEUS PULCHERRIMUS. 
The many new forms of Aster sent out in re¬ 
cent years tend, especially the eordifolius and 
ericoides types, to exceptionally graceful 
habit rather than to boldness. In this latter 
direction many of the newer Novi-Belgii 
forms are fine; hut for i^ffective grouping oc¬ 
casionally in shrubberies and at the back of 
herbaceous borders, the old variety named 
above is hard to beat. Two years ago a 
friend was forming a big herbaceous border 
where the soil was naturally good, and where 
expense was not spared to do it thoroughly 
well, 'fhe clumps were good the first year 
after planting, but this seaoon they are extra 
good, the tall pyramidal spikes being plenti¬ 
fully produced, and very fine in quality. The 
height, too, stamps this with good cultivation 
as possibly the tallest perennial Aster. 1 am 
not far off six feet high, and the tallest 
stems in the most vigorous clumps were 
nearly a foot above me. E. Burrell. 


NOTES AND REVIJES. 

Alonsoa Warscewiczii. Several times dur¬ 
ing the present, season 1 have met with this 


Aster pnniceus pulcherrimns in Mr. Morgan's garden at Esher. 


blossom for a long period. You should get a 
copy of “The English Flower Garden,” in 
which the whole question of hardy plant cul¬ 
ture is dealt with, numerous illustrations of 
borders, etc., being given, and also lists of 
suitable plants.] 

Chrysanthemum maximum.— I am a great 
admirer of a hardy herbaceou* border, and 
for some years past have been getting to¬ 
gether such occupants for my garden as will 
thrive on a clay soil. For flowers with long 
stems tliat one can cut freely for indoor de¬ 
coration, or for making up into a bunch for 
a visitor from town, who always highly ap¬ 
preciates such a gift, I am strongly in favour, 
and have some useful things of the kind. 
Among them is Chrysanthemum maximum, 
whose Daisy-like flowers are always telling. 
I have also a variety, Top Sawyer, a most 
useful one of it* kind, and a free bloomer. 
King Edward VII. I could not get. but at the 
recent Dahlia show I noticed a fine display 
of one called Mrs. Charles Lothian Bell, 
which seems to be better than any of the 
others. The blooms are of immense size, 
with pure white florets of great length, and 
the stems are long and^sixmt. It. prrynises 
to be a very fine additiC 


id j»L)u t. It. prcunispi 

(20 ATFU gIe 


Alonsoa in particularly good condition, more 
j especially when it has been growing in a dry 
and sunny spot. Under such conditions, the 
colouring of the flowers is very vivid, remind¬ 
ing one in their effective scarlet hue of some 
of the Chorozemas. In colour and general 
appearance it is widely removed from any 
' other annual, and should be made a note of 
by those anxious to make a selection of 
annuals for another season. This Alonsoa 
was introduced from Chili nearly half a cen¬ 
tury ago, ami a nearly allied kind or a more 
shrubby habit is generally employed for the 
I embellishment of No. 4 greenhouse at Kevv. 

I 

Salpiglossis grown in colours. -Among 
; summer-blooming annuals this holds a fore 
1 most place, especially when well grown. At 
, the close of August' I saw the Salpiglossis 
magnificent in the gardens at Wayford 
Manor, near Crewkerne, Somerset. These 
were in a wide border in front of the house, 
facing south. They were planted in colours, 
and eo arranged that the colours did not 
! clash. The plants were about 2 feet high, 
and very much branched. Mr. Gibling, the 
gardener, told me he sowed the seed in March 
under glass, giving nil the air possible from 
the first, pricking out into small pots, then 


shifting into larger pots, and keeping cold 
till planted out. I used to sow in clumps in 
the open ground, thinning out. In this wav 
the plants arc later in coming into bloom.—C. 

Heliotrope out-of-doors. It is when other 
summer flower* are on the wane that the 
Heliotrope is valuable, and, beautiful as it is 
under glass at all times of the year, it is only 
in the open-air in September that it, put* on 
its loveliest colouring. For cutting it is most 
useful, for the more you cut, the more shoots 
appear. This is the time to prepare a stock 
for next year. There is now springing from 
the base of each plant abundance of nice 
little shoots, which, if taken off and dibbled 
thickly into pots of sandy soil, kept moist and 
shaded in a cool frame, will soon root, and 
may then be exposed until it is necessary to 
place them in their winter quarters—viz., a 
shelf near the glass in any house or pit. with 
an intermediate temperature.—J. G., 
(J import. 

Leonard’s Avens (Geum rivale : Leonard’s 
variety).—Pretty as is the well-known Geum 
rivale, it is too plentiful and not. attractive 
enough in colour to be prized highly as a 
garden flower. The variety known as 
Leonard’s, and found, I believe, and, 
at least, introduced, bv the late Mr. 
H. Selfe-Leonard, of Guildford, has 
all the beauty of the original, with 
the added charm of brighter flowers, 
these being of a good, deep red, and 
produced as freely as those of the 
common form. It is equally free 
growing, and a small plant, such as 
we generally receive from the nur¬ 
series. will soon increase to a con¬ 
siderable size, and will form a 
pleasing addition to the border or 
the rock garden. Although gener¬ 
ally grown in the border,, the rock 
garden is really the proper position 
for G. rivale, as if planted at about 
the level of the eye. the flowers are 
much better seen than when given 
the ordinary position in a border. 
I have one of my plants of Leonard’s 
variety on the top of a low wall 
supporting a mound of soil, and this 
one looks much better than one in a 
lower position. This pleasing plant 
is readily increased by means of 
division, and flowers for a consider¬ 
able period in summer, and, occa¬ 
sionally. well into autumn. S. 
Arnott, Dvm fries. 

Romneya Coulteri in a Cornish 
garden. —I Rend you a photograph 
of a Roinneya Coulteri which grows 
in my garden, at Rosuick Cottage, 
St. Martin R.S.O., Cornwall. It. 
lias been so beautiful this summer 
that I took this photograph of it, 
with my cottage in the background. 
It grows in the centre of my lawn. 
If you care to make any use of it in 
your paper you are welcome t.o do 
so. — G. Walter Jevous. 

[The photo shows a very pretty 
residence and a line specimen of the plant, 
referred to, but we are sorry to say that, the 
reduction is much too great for a good result 
to be possible. —Ed.] 

Plants for bed (.4. P. J).).—The Wichuralana 
Rase would be the better of the two named, and if 
you planted this at alternate intervals of 4 feet, a 
covering would presently ensue for the entire hed. 
Or, by training the Roses to stout stakes a few feet 
in length, allowing them later to droop naturally to 
the bed, the surface of the bed could be covered 
with a mossy Saxifrage, as— e.g., Wallace! or Guild¬ 
ford seedling. Tufted Pansies, in white or yellow, or a 
good coloured Auhrietia. These dwarf plants would 
afford a good covering to the surface and a profuse 
flowering at a small outlay. 

Statice latifolia (Sea Lavender).—This is one of 
the best of the species suitable for border culture, 
and forms dense, cloudy masses of miniature blos¬ 
soms of a deep Lavender colour. My plants, which 
have been established for several years, throw up a 
few flower-spikes on each plant, and these, when in 
full blossom, are fully a yard or more through, and 
are exceedingly pretty. Before tile flowers begin to 
fade I always gather a number of the branching 
flowering sprays. These are placed in vases, etc., 
without water, for indoor decoration, where their 
beauty never fails to earn well-merited praise right 
throughout the dull days.—H. N. 


Index to Volume XXVIII. -The binding covers 
(price Is. Cd. each, post free, Is. 9d.) ami Index (3d., 
post, free, 34d.) for Volume XXVIII. are now ready, 
and may be had of all newsagents, or of the Pub¬ 
lisher, post free, 2s. for the two. 










438 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


October 12, 1907 


FRUIT. 

GATHERING AND STORING FRUIT. 

A GOOD fruit-room should be one of the main 
appurtenances to every well appointed garden. 
The best place I ever had for storing Apples 
was a stone-bottomed shed with a northern 
aspect. The temperature thus maintained 
was very suitable to the keeping of both 
Apples and Pears. During a severe frost heat 
applied artificially is against the keeping of 
Apples, this also having the effect of causing 
them to shrivel. Frost, however, must be 
kept from the fruit by barricading up the 
windows and doorway with suitable protec¬ 
tion, but on no account cover up the fruit 
with either hay or straw, this quickly impart¬ 
ing a musty flavour. Sheets of clean paper 
laid over the fruit, and over this a covering 
of dry bags, will keep away a severe amount 
of frost, and this without the least fear of 
imparting a disagreeable flavour. A cool and 
dry cellar forms a capital storage place for 
Apples, and the conditions could not be im¬ 
proved upon for good keeping of the fruit, 
but it has the disadvantage if under a dwell¬ 
ing house that the aroma of the fruit rises to 
the dwelling-rooms above, and so, conse¬ 
quently may be objected to on this account. 
Where there are quantities of Apples to be 
stored and storage-room is scarce, much might 
be done by adopting the American system of 
placing in barrels, those being stood in a dry 
position in an equable temperature. For this 
system of storing, the fruits must be gathered 
when perfectly dry, and all those placed in 
the barrels must be quite sound and free from 
blemish of any kind, as even one injured fruit 
would soon decay, and so quickly contaminate 
all those which come into immediate contact. 
The fruits as they are gathered must be care¬ 
fully handled, taking care not to bruise them. 
The ordinary flour barrels are well adapted 
for the purpose, but the lids must not be 
fastened down until the moisture has eva¬ 
porated from the fruits. 

The time when the samples are to be gath¬ 
ered will have a particular bearing on the 
keeping and future condition of the fruits. It 
is generally agreed that Apples and Pears 
a|re in the best condition for gathering when 
they part easily from the tree with an up¬ 
ward turn. If gathered before this stage is 
reached, the fruits will shrivel instead of re¬ 
maining plump and sound for several months. 
The gathering of Pears must be carefully per¬ 
formed, as many of the early or midseason 
varieties will ripen up and become of good 
quality if pulled before the main lot. of the 
same varieties is gathered. I think the latest 
varieties are often gathered too early ; con¬ 
sequently, if they do not. ripen they are 
quickly over. It is also evident that many of 
the midseason Pears are undoubtedly im¬ 
proved in quality by early gathering, but not 
so the late varieties. The fruits should he 
laid gently in the baskets, and when taken 
into the store the same care must be taken in 
removal. When there are quantities of 
Apples they may be stored thickly together. 
Pears naturally require to be laid out singly, 
as, obviously, these would soon become in¬ 
jured. After the fruits are gathered they 
naturally undergo a sweating process, as it 
will be noticed that in a few days afterwards, 
the fruits, especially Apples, will be slimy to 
the touch, and with some varieties more so 
than others. Bv leaving the windows open 
the moisture will soon evapornte. The 
windows should then be closed and the struc¬ 
ture made quite dark. A little ventilation 
may be needed at the apex of the window' to 
keep the surroundings dry and sweet. For 
this purpose the ordinary hit-and-miss iron 
ventilators are very suitable. Some varieties 
of Pears, especially the Christmas and later 
sorts, are improved in quality by being placed 
in a warm and dry drawer or cupboard for n 
few days previous to being used, this develop¬ 
ing their flavour and otherwise adding to their 
qualities. A. 


NOTES AND JtEPLIES. 

Pruit trees for wall •-T have just moved Into a 
new house. At the end of the garden there is a high 
wall facing N.N.W. I thought of planting fruit-trees 
against it. I am told 1 cannot put nails into the wall 
as it belongs to my neighbour. If I put high stakes. 

Digitized by GOOgk 


with wire running across to fasten the trees on, | 
would it be a good (KisiljOu for Morollo Cherries?— 

lilRDWOOb. 

[Both the Morello and dessert Cherries of 
such varieties as May Duke, Governor Wood, 
Black and White Hearts, Archduke, Elton, 
anrl Royal Duke would succeed on the aspect 
you name. Plums would also do well, a 
selection for the purpose being Rivers,’ Pro¬ 
lific, Czar, Oullin’e Golden Gage, Jefferson, 
Coe’s Golden Drop, Pond’s Seedling. Kirke’s, 
and Late Transparent. By reason of any or 
all of the foregoing flowering so much later 
when grown on such an aspect, there is always 
a greater certainty of obtaining a crop than 
when they arc accorded a warmer position, 
as they generally escajie the frosts of spring. 
A« regards the fixing of the training wires, a 
better way would l>e to have two poets, 

4 inches by 3 inches, one at. either end of 
wall, to which the straining-bolts and ter 
mi rials should be fastened. Then, at 9-feet 
intervals, have strips of deal 3 inches wide 
and 1 inch thick, to which the wires can be 
secured with staples. Fix the wires 9 inches 
apart, and the straining-bolts and terminals 
also. Allow the posts and strips to be 
18 inches longer than the height of the wall, 
which portion is for driving or letting into the 
soil at the foot of the wall, after having been 
partially charred and dipped in tar to pre¬ 
vent them from rotting. The two posts 
would require struts of equal dimensions both 
to enable them to withstand the strain and 
to keep the wires taut. Such a trellis would 
be economical, neat, in appearance, easily 
fixed, and would also meet, the case, in that it. 
would not be attached to the wall.] 

Growing a Peach on paling -My garden has a 
high paling, tarred black. It faces due south, in a 
very warm corner. Could I possibly try to grow a 
Peach-tree? If not, can you tell me if there is any 
other fruit-trees that I could place there? Then 1 have 
a paling facing uoiit h-west. Can you advise me what to 
place against it? 1 would like some sort of fruit-tree. 
It is a very hot garden.—B ikdw non. 

[Yes; you may plant a Peach-tree against 
the fence facing due south with every pros¬ 
pect of its succeeding. In fact, no difficulty 
whatever should be experienced in securing 
good crops of fruit from a tree planted in 
such a warm position. On the fence facing 
south-west you may plant a Nectarine or 
Apricot, the position being equally suited to 
both. Other kinds of fruits suitable for such 
an aspect would be a very early Cherry or 
Plum, or a Pear-tree, such as Marie Louise, 
Doyenne du Comice, or any other choice 
variety.] 

Almond-tree fruiting.— An Almond-tree planted 
in this garden live years ago has always blossomed 
freely. This year it has borne twent.v-flve fruits. 
Does the Almond bear often ill the open?—J. Li skky 
COAD, Salcombe, R.8.O. 

[Aluiond-trees of the ordinary standard or 
ornamental form fruit freely almost every 
year. The variety you have is. most likely, 

' the bitter-fruited form. Ainygdaliis communis 
[ amarn, a native of Persia. The fruits, even 
'when carefully preserved, are inferior to those 
purchased in shops. The Sweet Almond 
must, be grown on a wall like the Poach, as, 
blooming so early, the flowers are, as a rule, 
killed by frost.] 

Outdoor Figs.—I never remember the crop 
so late in ripening as this season, not only 
Figs, for all fruits arc much behind their 
usual date in coming to perfection. Absence 
of sunshine, of course, is the cause of this. 
It is not that hardy fruits do not ripen with¬ 
out sun ; I think the soil has never been pro¬ 
perly warmed this summer, which has much 
to do with the late ripening of our various 
fruits in the open. If we had to endure many 
seasons like the present, we should have to 
thin our trees considerably if well-matured 
worn! is to be the order.—J. M. 

Plum Denniston‘8 Superb.— This is an¬ 
other early-ripening Gage, suitable for wall 
culture—that is, if extra early fruits are in 
demand. In a normal season the fruits ripen 
in mid-August, and succeed Oullin’s Gage on 
a south-east, aspect. The fruits are of aver¬ 
age size, of a yellowish-green colour, and 
covered with a greyish-white bloom. It has 
yellowish, juicy, richly-flavoured flesh, and 
ranks with the best of the Gages as a dessert 
fruit. Grown as a flush or pyramid, it is 
equally productive, though, naturally, later in 
maturing its fruits. One tree at least, 
whether wall-trained or grown in the open 
garden, should be in every collection.—A. W. 


GARDEN WORK. 

Conservatory. —Many plants will require 
less water now—not less at one time, but not 
so often. It is a rule which should not be 
departed from that when a plant requires 
water, enough should be given to moisten all 
the soil and run out freely at the hole in the 
bottom. Do not give liquid-manure when the 
soil is very dry, as much of it is wasted. 
Water first with clear water, and then giw* 
the stimulant so that it may remain and be* 
taken up by the roots. During the early 
stages of growth, if the plant is growing in the 
right kind of soil, stimulants arc not required, 
but when the roots have reached the Hides of 
the pot, and are searching for food in all 
directions, a little artificial plant food in the 
water is a great help, especially when flower- 
buds are forming. This, of course, can be 
carried too far. Such things as Chrysanthe¬ 
mums, Salvias, Eupatoriums, Cyclamens, 
Cinerarias, and other plants approaching the 
flowering stage may have a small quantity of 
good plant food—say, half an ounce to the 
gallon of water at every Avatering. If more 
than half an ounce is given to the gallon, then 
give it less often. We find this treatment 
suits Palms and other fme-folinged plants 
which have filled the pots with roots. Such 
may lw grown in smaller pots if some help is 
given in this way. It is not. safe to keep ten¬ 
der plants in cold pits now, even when 
covered with mats at night. This rcfeis 
especially to Cyclamens, Cinerarias, Primu¬ 
las. and Begonias. Calceolarias may be left a 
little longer, and we have not yet taken 
Genistas and Azaleas from indicated places, 
but these things are safe when covered. Wo 
filL up every bit of space under glass with 
something in the nature of a catch crop, of 
which Tomatoes form the main staple, and 
this season they have taken longer to clear, 
so that, probably, temporary shelters may 
have to be improvised for late Chrysanthe¬ 
mums. It is best to get. the watering done in 
cool-houses, ns far as possible, in the early 
part of the day. Fires must be lighted now, 
as the nights are cold, but use as littLe fire- 
heat as possible, as fuel is dear. 

Stove. —The stock of flowering plants can 
be drawn upon now. Those resting in cooler 
structures can l>e moved into heat. These will 
include many soft-wooded plants, such as Er- 
antheimuns, Justicias, Poinsettins. Libonias. 
Epiphyllums in baskets after resting will soon 
throw out blossom-buds, and may be taken to 
the conservatory. Some plants have finished 
their summer work, and are going to rest, 
and will require less water. The summer 
flowering climbers, Allamandas, Cleroden- 
droil Balfouri, and Bougainvilleas, will have 
finished their work, and will be succeeded by 
Ipomica Horsefallise, Passiflora princeps. Jas- 
niinuin graeillinnun is nearly always in flower. 
With a little warmth Tuberoses may be 
brought on in succession now for the last 
batch. Mnnettia bicoLor is rather a pretty, 
trailing plant, for a basket. Such Orchids as 
Cuelogynes, Lvcasfes, and Dendrobiums will 
lie resting, and require a drier treatment, but 
Cvpripediums will require more liberal treat¬ 
ment, as some of the earliest will soon lie in 
bloom. 

Late Crapes.— It. may be necessary to use a 
little fire-beat to finish the ripening of late 
Grapes, but the last three weeks of bright 
sunshine hnve done wonders. If Grapes have 
to be kept any time, do not fill the house with 
pot plants, as if it comes moist weather 
Grapes will not keep well in a damp atmos¬ 
phere. Remove all emblaterals, and if any of 
the main leaves touch the glass, tie them 
down or dispose of them in some way so that 
the foliage clears the glass. Where they 
touch the gla.SvS they form channels for the 
condensed moisture to descend among the 
berries, and so lead to decay. Grapes must 
bo looked over often, and decaying berries 
cut out. Hamburghs in an earlier house may 
he cut now and bottled. 

Cucumbers indoors. —The plants in frames 
will now be pretty well over, and the supply 
will be drawn from the warm-house. But the 
fire-heat should be kept down to 60 degs. at 
night, and the ventilation may be free during 
the day. Try to do without shading by damp¬ 
ing floors often. If we begin to shade it has 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


October 12, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


439 


to bo continued, as it low a tendency to 
weaken the growth ; and those plants which 
are drawn up weakly in the beginning are 
run out by Christmas, and there comes an 
unpleasant break in the supply if there is 
only one house. Of course, where another 
house can be planted now and be held in 
reserve, there w ill be no difficulty. Top-dress 
often, but not much compost need be used. 
Cover every root, which shows oil the surface. 
There should be a comfortable bottom heat 
of 75 degs. or 80 degs., aiul the top-heat need 
not exceed GO degs. to 65 degs. 

Outdoor garden.— We have had several 
degrees of frost, but, at. the time of writing, 
Dahlias are still full, of blossom, hut wo can¬ 
not expect this state of things to continue 
much longer. Jf any plants have to be saved 
from the beds, it will be better to lift them 
Indore sharp frost comes. Those beds which 
have become untidy may be cleared and filled 
with bulbs, Pansies, and other things which 
have been prepared for the purpose. Where 
small shrubs are used, the gold and silver 
Euonyinuses are among the best things, as 
they will fast for years with a little annual 
pruning, arid when the beds are cleared in 
spring they will be moved to the reserve gar¬ 
den without any check, and they are easily 
trained as standards and pyramids. Early- 
flowering Chrysanthemums are also available. 
The autumn garden may be made bright with¬ 
out much expense. Get the Carnations 
jda-uled ns soon ns possible. Duplicates of 
all the best varieties should be planted in a 
reserve Iwd, ami space enough allowed be¬ 
tween the plants for layering. Usually where 
a good display is wanted the space between 
the plants is too limited for layering. Any 
‘pare Violets not required for framing may 
he planted at the foot of south walls or oil 
the south side of a Yew hedge for flowering 
in winter and enplv spring. Calceolaria cut¬ 
tings should lx^ taken now and inserted in 
samlv loam in a cold-frame from 2 inches to 
'I inches apart. Continue to make prepara¬ 
tion for Roses, as the beds will require time 
to settle after trim oiling. Where Roses have 
not been doing well, they may be much im¬ 
proved by lifting, trenching, and manuring 
the ground and replanting, placing a little 
good loam round the roots. 

Fruit garden. —The Logan berry is mak¬ 
ing headway. It bears very freely, and the 
fruit is good for jam and tarts. It. is rather 
stronger in growth than the Raspberry, and 
should have more room. If planted in rows 
and trained to w ires the top wire should lx? 
6 feet high and the rows at least 6 feet apart; 
or, if planted at wider intervals, other crops 
nmy be plauted between. Like the Rasp¬ 
berry, it is surface rooting, and if before 
planting the ground has been trenched and 
manured rich surface dressings will suffice 
for several years afterwards, and before ex¬ 
haustion sets in move to fresh ground. Some¬ 
thing more might l>e done with Blackberries 
on similar lines : and I think it will he found 
that our own native Blackberry may l>e so 
improved by cultivation that, we shall not 
"ant to go to America for Blacklierries. It 
Minves everyone who lias a clean, healthy 
stock of Gooseberries and Currants to propa¬ 
gate a few young bushes annually. Cuttings 
‘an be selected now. Stout, straight, young 
shoots, not le«s than a foot long, can be laid 
in and prepared for planting the first wet 
day. Rome of the second early varieties of 
Apples and Pears are being gathered, but the 
late sorts must hang longer. It is an easy 
mutter to tell when Apples and Pears are 
ready for gathering by taking a fruit in the 
hand, lifting it up, so as to apply a little 
pressure to the stalk. We do not want the 
fruit to fall, but until it parts ensily let it 
remain. 

Vegetable garden. We may expect frost 
that will injure Cauliflowers at any time now. 
therefore, see that the hearts are protected 
hy foliage. A leaf broken down over the 
heart will suffice for the present, but before 
severe weather comes the plants should be 
luted w ith balls and planted either in a < old- 
PJ 1 or •» a trench where protection can be 
f. ,v °n- Cabbage plants may be planted at any 
time during the autumn. Open-air Mush¬ 
room-beds in bearing have required more 
"ater since the change c/Iflfc in the wealhej. 

d ; iti. •• AjO gl^ 


This is a good time to make up beds, either in 
the house or outside. It is very seldom beds 
made now fail. It has been, too, such a 
glorious time for drying and preparing the 
manure. Late Peas are still plentiful, and 
the sunshine has filled up the pods. Hunt- 
ingdonian, No Plus Ultra, and Autocrat are 
three of the best late Peas the two first for 
their second cropping habit, and Autocrat is 
too well known for anything more to be said 
about it iu the way of recommendation. Take 
advantage of the fine weather to trench in 
weeds, or, at any rate, to clear them off lo 
prevent seeds ripening, but merely raking 
them off and taking them to the rubbish-heap 
will not do this. All garden rubbish should 
bo'exposed lo fire, and then there will he no 
trouble with weeds. Weeds are fery often 
taken to the garden in the manure, and often 
come in the straw used to litter stables and 
byres. In this respect Moss-litter manure 
gives less trouble. E. Hobday. 


THE COMING WEEK'S WORK. 

Extracts from a (Jarden Diary. 

Ortobir 1/fth. — Commenced to clear flower¬ 
beds and prepare for bulbs and spring flower¬ 
ing tilings. Some of the lieds will have a 
groundwork of Pansies, with May-flowering 
TuLips dotted among them. Tin* Pansies are 
now coming into flower, and will give sonic 
brightness during the autumn and winter, if 
mild, and lx* quite gay in spring. Both 
Pansies and Tulips will be ready to come off 
iti June for Begonias, etc. 

October Iblh. Among the shrubs which are 
used in the beds to give elevation arc stan¬ 
dard golden Privets and gold and silver- 
leaved Euonyimiscs. These will last for years, 
if taken care of when lifted in spring, and 
they form nice centres for beds when large 
enough. The Pampas Grass on the lawn is 
now a special feature. In the spring a mulch 
of manure was placed round the plants, and 
this lias improved the spike. The same treat¬ 
ment was given to Tritomas, with a like 
result. 

October 10th.- Tied leaves over Cauliflowers 
turning in. Shall lift a lot of them by-and-bye, 
before the severe frost conies. Root-pruning 
is still being done, and some young Peach 
trees about three years planted will be lifted 
and replanted. This is beneficial in several 
ways. A couple of Fig-trees that have sent 
the roots over the bed of concrete on which 
they were planted will have the roots short¬ 
ened by-and-bye. We have found iu previous 
years Hint, has given a beneficial check, and 
leads to the production of short-jointed, firm 
wood. 

October I?fh. Top-dressed borders in early 
vinery. A couple of inches of the exhausted 
surface is removed, and some good loam 
blended wi!h inauiirial mutter wheeled in and 
made reasonably firm. I have a terror of 
mealy-bug iu vineries, and though I have had 
trouble with it in the past. I am quite free 
now. and feel thankful, and I think we arc 
free from mealy-bug in the stove. I find if n 
plant is infested with mealy hug or scale it is 
cheaper to throw it on the fire than attempt 
to clean it. 

October 18th. —Finished earthing ui) Celery, 
Leeks, and Cardoons. Replanted Box edg¬ 
ings where worn and patchy, and then turned 
over and rolled down firmly the surface of the 
walk. Tied up more Lettuces and Endive. 
Mustard and Cress are sown now under glass. 
The last sowing of French Breakfast Radishes 
was made in rich soiL in a frame. Pelar¬ 
goniums from the beds that were saved for 
stock purposes have been potted into 3 inch 
and 4-inch pots, after being shortened back a 
little. 

October 19th.- Re arranged conservatory. 
Several good specimen Vallotas are now 
coming into bloom, and are conspicuous ob¬ 
jects. billed a frame with Calceolaria cut¬ 
tings. Finished planting Carnation layers. 
The plants are well rooted, as the layering 
was done early. The usual routine work of 
tidving up takes more time now. as leaves are 
falling fast. The frost has cut the Vegetable 
Marrows and French Beaus, but Hie Dahlias 
seem to have escaped. Fruit gathering takes 
up much time now. Rome trees have been 
condemned to be removed and others re¬ 
grafted. 


ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 
October 1st. 

The hall was well filled with excellent ex¬ 
hibits on the occasion of the meeting held on 
the above-named date. The exhibits, too, 
were of a high order of merit, and we note 
with satisfaction an almost entire absence of 
common place things. Equally satisfactory 
is it to note the care shown in the arrange¬ 
ment of most of the exhibits. The chief of 
the groups came under the floral c ommittee, 
and the remarkable collection of Vines from 
Central and Western China shown by the 
Messrs. Veitch attracted a good deal of atten¬ 
tion. Dahlias were seen in great numbers, 
and of good quality, and there are not want¬ 
ing signs that the showy Pieonia-flow’ered sec¬ 
tion is coming to the front. Roses were par¬ 
ticularly good and plentiful, and we were 
pleased with a delighftul group of annual 
Scabious from Rothesay, than which nothing 
finer of its kind has ever been seen, we 
imagine. The only gold medal awarded on 
this occasion went to the Messrs. Jns. Veitch 
and Sons, Ltd., Chelsea, for their unique col¬ 
lection of Vitis secies from China. In all 
there were some fifty-three distinct kinds, a 
few of which are as yet unnamed. It is not 
possible to adequately convey an idea of the 
beauty of these plants or their ornament hI 
character in the garden, much less is it pos¬ 
sible to over-estimate their worth. Plants of 
many sizes from 3 feet high to, possibly, 
15 feet, or, in a few instances, even 18 feet 
high, welt; seen, giving not only good oppor¬ 
tunities for comparison, but affording proof 
of their beauty and ornamental value. Some 
of the more distinct are Vitis arniata, V. a. 
Veitchi, V. Heiiryi, V. leeoides, V. flexuosa 
Wilsoni, V. Thomsoni, the lustrous or well- 
marked leafage in some, and the richly- 
coloured leafage iu others, rendering them at 
once conspicuous. Old tree-stumps, arches, 
bowers, pergolas,,,etc., may be ornamented 
with these in the most lavish style and with 
brilliant autumnal effect. The herbaceous 
Phloxes from Messrs. Gunn and Sons, Olton, 
Birmingham, were especially good and finely 
displayed, and. for the opening days of Octo¬ 
ber, highly meritorious, the handsome pyra¬ 
mids of blossoms in alL cases indicating the 
best cultivation. Of these alone a full length 
table was set up, the entire lot being in the 
pink of condition. A similarly large table 
waft occupied by a rare feast of Roses from 
Messrs. Win. Paul and Son, Waltham Cross, 
a huge bouquet of each kind. Manian Cochct 
and its white form, Frau Karl Druschki. Lo 
Progres, Richmond, Warrior, and Hugo 
Roller are but a few of the many superb 
varieties noted. Messrs. T. 8. Ware, Ltd., 
Feltham, had a rich and varied display of 
Cactus and Pseonia-flowered Dahlias, inter¬ 
spersed with sprays of Michaelmas Daisies, 
etc. Messrs. H. Canuell and Rons, Swan ley, 
also filled a table with Dahlias, chiefly of the 
Cactus, decorative, and Panada -flowered 
sorts, the last also coming from M. Gt. Van 
Wavnren, Holland. Tree-Carnations were iu 
every way excellent, ns shown by Messrs. 
Win. Cutbush and Rons, llighgate, the tine 
white Mrs. R. Norman being conspicuous, the 
same firm having two of the new pink flowered 
Rpirieas on view. The annual Rcabioue front 
Messrs. Dobbie and Co., in white, rose, deep 
crimson, maroon, lilac, etc..were admired by 
all, the strain receiving the unusual award of 
a first-class certificate. Mr. H. B. May, 
Edmonton, had a beautiful lot of hardy 
Ferns, chiefly of the crested Reolopendriums, 
Polypodiums, Polys ti churns, etc., and a 
further group of hybrid Veronicas in many 
shades of colour. Rome excellent Roses were 
shown by Frank Cant- and Co., Colchester; 
D. Prior and Roil, Colchester, and Mr. G. 
Prince. Long worth. The Messrs. R. H. Bath, 
Ltd., Wisbech, included many good Roses in 
a group largely composed of early-flowering 
Chrysanthemums. Hardy plants were numer¬ 
ous and good, the finp displays from Messrs. 
Win. Cutbush and Rons, llighgate; Mr. 
Amos Perry. Enfield ; Messrs. Barr and 
Rons; and Mr. Frank Brazier, Caterham, 
calling for special mention. Mr. G. Reutlie, 
Keston. had a variety of interesting plants, 
the white Colcliicum speciosum being very 
noticeable. Mr. R. C. Notcutt. Woodbridge, 
also showed hardy plants in variety. Dahlias 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



440 


GARDENING ILL USTRA TED. 


October 13, 1907 


were freely shown by Messrs. Stredwick and 
Son, St. Leonard’s-on-Sea, whose group in- 
eluded six first-class novelties; Mr. Seale, 
Sevenoaks ; and Mr. West, Brentwood. The 
Nerines from the Messrs. Veitch were 
superbly flowered, some of the plants carry¬ 
ing from fifteen to eighteen spikes of bloom. 
The same firm also had a fine collection of 
Apple-trees in pots, the dwarf examples being 
abundantly and well-fruited. From the 
Wisley gardens of the society came a collec¬ 
tion of high class Pears, while from the 
Gunnersbury House gardens Mr. James Hud¬ 
son brought some new perpetual-fruiting 
Strawberries—La Perle (pink), and Merveille 
do France, the last, named not perpetual, we 
believe. 

The Orchid groups were most interesting, 
if not numerous, the Messrs. Jas. Cypher and 
Sons, Cheltenham, having a large display of 
Cypripedium Fairieanum in well flowered 
plants. Other exhibitors of Orchids included 
Messrs. Charleswortli and Co., Bradford; 
Messrs. Armstrong and Brown, Tunbridge 
Wells: and Hugh Low and Co., Enfield. 
Jeremiah Column, Esq., Reigate, and H. S. 
Gordon, Esq., West Hill, Putney, also had 
important groups of these plants. 

A complete list of awards will be found in 
our advertising columns. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

Questions.— Queries and amove re arc, inserted in 
Gardening free, of charge if correspondents follow these 
rules: All communications should be clearly and concisely 
icritten on one side, of the paper only, and addressed to 
the Editor if Gardening, 17, Fumiral-street, Holbont, 
London, E.C. Letters on business should be sent, to the 
Publisher. Thn name and address of the sender are 
required, in addition to any designation he may desire to 
be used inf the paper. When, more than one query is sent, 
each should be on a separate piece of paper, and not more, 
than three queries should be sent at a time. Correspon¬ 
dents should bear in mind that, as Gardenisg has to be. 
sent to press some time, in advance of date, queries cannot 
always be replied to in the issue immediately following 
the receipt of their communication. He do not reply to 
queries by post. 

Naming fruit. Readers who desire our help in 
naming fruit should bear in mind that several specimens 
m different stages of colour and size of the same kind 
greatly assist in its determination. We have receired from 
several correspondents single specimens of fruits for 
naming, these in many cases being unripe and other- 
i vise jmjot. The differences between varieties of fruits are- 
in many cases so trifling that it is necessary that three 
specimens of each kind should be sent. We can undertake 
tn name only four varieties at a time, amt these only when 
the above directions are observed. 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

Name of Pelargonium <L« Rote ).—TFie name of 
the scarlet Pelargonium at Buckingham Palace, con¬ 
cerning which you inquire, is Paul Crumpel. a variety 
sent out by M. Lcnioine, of Nancy, in 1892, but it 
whs some time after that before its merits were 
fully recognised. Within the last few years, how¬ 
ever, it has been extensively used in the flower- 
garden. 

Weed in lawn (//. E. Taylor ).-The weed you 
send is probably a Huwkweed (Hieracium), hut it 
was very much shrivelled, and there were no flowers. 
The soil of your lawn is evidently very poor, and 
your best course, we think, would be to have it 
deeply dug, clearing out the weed as you go. Before 
digging it give it a good coat of manure, and after 
1 lie soil has become firm relay with fresh turf or 
sow with good Grasa-seed. 

Tritomaa (Monica).—You may apply a good 
mulch of well-decayed manure round about the 
plants for a space of 3 feet or more from the centre 
of the crowns, or you might dig out a trench at this 
same distance and to a depth of 18 inches all round 
the plants, and insert a heavy layer of manure, 
treading it down firmly and refilling in the soil. Do 
not cut the plants (’own, but when the foliage shows 
signs of decay, twist and fold the leaves over the 
crowns for protection. The above dressing of manure 
shyiild he applied during the present autumn. 

Scale on Palm (Lily ).—Your Palm lias been badly 
attacked by scale. You had better lay it on its side 
mi a large table outdoors, then po over every portion 
of the stems and leaves with a blunt-edged knife 
and scrape otf every bit of scale to be found. Then 
make up strong soapy water, using 1 lb. of soft-soap 
to a bueketful of boiling water, and when it is dis¬ 
solved and the water is yet quite warm give the 
whole of the stems and leaves a good washing with 
a fairly hard brush. Then thoroughly wash with 
clean water, using a rose water-pot or a syringe. It 
in of no use to ignore this pest, and any plant in¬ 
fested must tie thoroughly cleansed. Y'ou may tielp 
la exterminate the scale by adding J pint of paraffin 
in the soap solution and keeping it well mixed. We 
may say that, judging from the small piece of leaf 
you send us, your plant is evidently dead. If all 
the leaves are in the same condition, we should 
not hesitate to throw the plant away. Your Lily ot 
the Valley i* probably too thick, and the only way 
is to dig it up and replant. 

Carnations for forcing (P. Holm).— The term 
forcing as applied to plants in general is not at all 
suitable for tlie ancyessfnl culture <M Carnations. 

Digitized by GOOgle 


The best for winter flowering are what are known 
as the American varieties, by means of which a 
supply of bloom may be kept up throughout the 
winter months. For this purpose a good light 
structure is necessary, and a buoyant atmosphere, 
maintained by a free circulation of nir. The tem¬ 
perature may range from a minimum of 40 degs. to 
43 degs., with a maximum of 60 degs. The follow¬ 
ing Is a list of the best forms, some of which, though 
usually termed American varieties, have been raised 
in this country: Britannia, scarlet; Enchantress, 
delicate pink; Fair Maid, pink; Harlowarden, deep 
crimson: Harry Feun, crimson; Lady Bountiful, 
white; Mrs. T. W. Lawson, cerise-pink; Mrs. H. Bur¬ 
nett, sulmon-pink ; Mrs. M. A. Batten, white, striped- 
pink; Robert Craig, deep-scarlet; White Lawson, 
white; and White Perfection, white. 

Planting Rose bed (G. W\ Evans ).—In planting 
such a bed in rows we should recommend you to 
set out the rows, running the 40 feet in length. The 
bushes should be from 2 feet to 2£ feet apart, if 
you plant free-growing sorts; if moderate growers, 
then 18 inches apart. You should plant the Roses 
in three or four grades of growth, having the 
moderate growers on the two outside rows, medium 
growers next, and the vigorous ones towards the 
centre. The first row should he I foot from edge of 
bed, then two more rows, 2 feet apart, followed by 
a path 2 feet wide; thou three more rows and 
another path. In all, this bed would take about 
eight rows, allowing for two paths, from which you 
could gain access to the Roses without treading upon 
the soil about the. plants. Roughly speaking, such 
a bed would take, at 2 feet upart, about 150 plants. 

If this would be too many, 3 feet apart could be 
given from plant to plant, and you could then peg 
down the strong growers in the centre, towards the 
outside rows. The rows near to the inner path could 
come within a foot of such paths on either side. 

1 Verbenas (Monica). The seedling plants of 
Verbenas are among the worst things possible for 
wintering when the old plants are lifted, and would, 
in a large number of instances, perish outright. The 
Verbena too frequently is given a greater degree of 
heat than is necessary, and the plant suffers in con¬ 
sequence. A cold frame at this season is quite 
enough for it . and in such, if kept close, the cuttings 
root, quite readily. It is not even now too late for 
cuttings, and any fresh green shoots of 2 inches or 
more long made to a joint would be quite suitable. 
The best shoots for forming cuttings are those that 
have not flowered. In a cold frame in very sandy 
soil, or kept close in a greenhouse, just, excluding 
frost, such cuttings would form roots in a month if 
well supplied with moisture, which is most, essential, 
and especially so overhead. If you prefer to try the 
lifted plants, place them in a cold frame after potting 
them. Preparatory to lifting them from the border, 
such as are intended for lifting should be cut back 
to within C inches of the centre of the plant, and 
when new shoots are appearing the plants may be 
lifted and dealt with at once. We consider a packet 
of seeds sown in the end of January would be much 
more profitable than spending time with the old 
stumps. 

TREES AND SHRUBS. 

Azalea mollis from seed (E. O.).—The month 
of April is the best time to sow seeds of Azalea 
mollis in the open ground, as the soil is then usually 
in a good st-ate for the purpose. If your soil is heavy 
it would be well to work into it. some well-rotted 
leaf-mould and sand before sowing. It is well to 
cover the beds* with a few branches to break the 
rays of the sun and afford a certain amount of 
shelter from hard, drying winds. If the beds are 
covered too thickly, the plants draw up directly they 
appear above ground. As soon as the seedlings ap¬ 
pear the covering should be removed, but this must 
be done gradually, for sudden exposure would soon 
work havoc among the young plants, particularly if 
the weather is at all bright. 

Moving Rhododendrons (E. 0.).— In the event 
of open weather you may move your Rhododen¬ 
drons at any time from October to the end of 
February. Dig them up carefully with as much soil 
attached as possible, and replant in their permanent 
quarters without delay. The soil for Rhododendrons 
should be well dug. and, if heavy, then add plenty 
of leaf-mould or decayed leaves, or, better still, some 
peat if you can get it. Take care when planting 
to make the soil firm round the roots, more espe¬ 
cially if the staple is light and sandy. If the follow¬ 
ing summer should be dry, water frequently and | 
mulch with some rotten manure or leaf-soil, so as to I 
retain the moisture as much as possible. Watering 
is greatly assisted if round each plant there is n 
saucer-shaped depression, as into this the water can 
be poured, and thus quickly reach the roots. 

FRUIT. 

Green fly on Currant-bushes (P. //.).—You 

can do little now the season is so far advanced, but 
next spring, directly growth begins, syringe the trees 
freely with paraffin emulsion or Qua&isia extract and 
soft-soap. You could also syringe the trsea when 
the leaves have fallen with caustic alkali solution. 
In using this great care is necer-sary that it does 
not touch the bare hands or the clothes. 

Pruning Raspberry canes (Skisdon). - The 
simple operation of pruning these is, os a rule, leu 
till late in the season, so that rains may not pene¬ 
trate the pith of the shortened caries and cause 
them to split under the influence of frost. The 
month of March is quite early enough to prune the 
canes. All the pruning necessary consists in shorten¬ 
ing the canes that you have left to a convenient 
length for the position they occupy and the mode of 
training to which they are subjected. 

Corylus Bpecies (Subscriber).— In purchasing 
Nut or Filbert-bushes for planting to produce fruit, 
you need not in the least trouble about their botani¬ 
cal classification. Ordered under common names of 
Filberts or Cobs, they will be sent you all right. All 
the edible Nuts or Filberts are of the species Corylus 


Avellana. A few good once are Kentish Cob,_Early 
Prolific Filbert. Cosford, Pearson’s Prolific, and the 
Red Filbert. Nuts are rather partial to a chalk sub¬ 
soil, but failing chalk, add in planting a good quan¬ 
tity of fresh lime or old mortar rubbish and wood- 
ashes. Some manure laid as a mulch over the roots is 
better than if dug in close to them. 


SHORT REPLIES. 

Rownncroft All depends on the size of the garden 
and its position and soil. If very shaded, then flower¬ 
ing plant* will be of little use. Of shrubs, you might 
try Weigelas, Philadelphia, Lilac*. Guelder Roses, 
Pyrin* Mains floribunda. Double Cherries, Almonds, 

Japan Quinces, etc.- Mary .—After having bunched 

them, pack them in layers in a tin box, with moist 
tissue-paper between'each layer. On no account use 
cotton wool. Yes, take off the runners, you ought to 
have done so before you put the plants into the 

frames.- II. 8. Guff .—The best time is just when the 

plants arc on the move in the early spring.- 

//. M. King. —Any fruit-tree nurseryman should be 
able to supply you with plants of Hautbois Straw¬ 
berry.- J. C. Walsh.—Hoc reply to your query in our 

issue of October 5th, p. 416.- E. Baynham.— It is 

utterly impossible to say what the disease is from the 

scrap you scud. Please send a complete plant.- 

R. E. Alderson .—See reply to P. Knight rc the Celery- 

fly. in our issue of October fttli, p. 424.- Culver.— 

The common Beech is the best. The Aspen is Popu- 
Ius trcmula. You should get a practical man in the 
neighbourhood to advise you us to the planting. 
Without seeing the i»o*dtion you refer to, and knowing 
something of the place, it is very difficult for us to 

advise you.- Old Subscriber.—We fear that your 

Myrtle is past recovery, bub it is, of course, impos¬ 
sible to say without actual inspection, hence your 
belter way will be to get a gardener in your neigh¬ 
bourhood to look at it and advise thereon.— A.H.R. 
— The roots of your Fig-trees have evidently got out 
of bounds, and want restricting. Sec reply to 
*• Muriel” re “Figs Growing Too Strongly,” in our 

issue of September 14th, p. 376.- K. B.— The fronds 

may be dried so as to retain their natural colour whi le 
kept ill paper, but so soon as they are exposed they 
very soon fade. Y'ou should grow some of the forms of 
Asparagus, the trails of which are a good substitute 
for the Fern fronds. /*. Reid Vegetables fur Ex¬ 
hibition and Home Consumption,” price 3s. 6d. Pub¬ 
lished by Simpkin, Marshall and Co., 4, Stationers’ 
Hall-court, London, E.C. 


NAMES OF PLANTS AND FRUITS. 

Names of plants— Rushen Ah bey.— Saddle-leaved 
Tulip (LirioJendron tulipiferuin). — Cemetery. - 
Lilium speciosum Melpomene.- Mrs. Herene.— Del¬ 
phinium nudicaule.- 8. K. D.— Convolvulus major, 

now known as Ipoimea purpurea, comes from tropical 
America. C. minor, now called C. tricolor, cornea 

from the Mediterranean region.- G. Parsons.—Sene- 

cio tanguticus.- Cornwall.— Erigeron multiradiatu*. 

- Greta Bridge. — Probably a Rhus; must have 

flowers or fruit.- Whin-Hurst.— We do not know' the 

plant under the name you give it. Send us a piece 
and then we may be able to help you with the botani¬ 
cal name. 

Names of fruit — Ballycastle.— Apple Alfriston. 
When sending fruits for name, kindly read our rules 
as to the number we require. Y’ou send us only one 
specimen, and that a malformed one.-W\ Grove.— 

I, Warner's King; 2, Golden Winter Pearmain; 3. 

Not recognised.- F. C. P.— Apple English Codlin.- 

II. Breach.— Pear Beurrg Capiaumont.- R. C. Gil¬ 

son.—Judging from the miniature specimens you send 
us, the Pear is, we think, Vicar of Winkfleld. Apple 

not recognised.- Cherry.— Pears: 1, Calebasse; 2, 

Beurr£ Hardy; 3. Van Mons. Leon Leclcrc; 4. Not 
recognised. Apples: 5, Ecklinville Seedling: 6, Manx 
Codlin; 7, Probably Lane’s Prince Albert. Before 
again sending fruit for name, carefully read our rule* 
as to the number of each kind we require and the 
number we undertake to name in any one week. 


Catalogues received. —G. Bunyard and Co., Maid¬ 
stone. — Descriptive Catalogue of Fruit - trees and 

poses. -Frank Cant and Co., Braiswick Rose 

Gardens, Colchester .—Catalogue of Roses. -W.Atlee 

Burpee and C'o., Philadelphia .—Trade Offer of Tall 

Sweet Pens. -Sir J. Gore Booth, Bart., Liss.-idell, 

Sligo .—Price List of Daffodils; Price List of Alpines 

and Herbaceous Plants. -Moore, Limited, Rawdon. 

rid Leeds .—Special Autumn Sole Catalogue of Orchids. 

Illustrated. -Boupcrfc and Notting. Luxembourg.— 

List of Roses for 1007-1908. -Ant. Roozen and Sou, 

Overveen, Haarlem .—List of Dutch and Cape Bulbs. 


Preserving the colour in leaves -I shall be 
glad to know through your paper if there is any sue 
ccs fill way of preserving the beauty of red leaves or 
branches of the Dog Rose berries, or Clematis vitalba 
(Old Man’s Beardi. for vase* in the winter? 1 find the 
leaves always shrivel, though pressed, and the 
branches the* same, though I sealed up the ends w ith 
wax.—E. G. Thorn. 


United Horticultural Benefit and Provi¬ 
dent Society.- -We are a*ked to elate that the 
twenty-first anniversary dinner of this society 
will be held at the Holborn Restaurant. High 
Holborn, W.C., on Friday, November 1st, at 
6.30 p.m. Sir Albert K. Rollit. LL.D.. 
D.C.L.. member of the Council of the Royal 
Horticultural Society, has kindly consented 
to preside on this occasion. Tickets may be 
had from the secretary, W. Collins, 9, 
Martindale-road, Balham, S.W. 

NIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 

So. 1,493. —\ OL. XXIX. Founded, by W. Robinson, Author “ The English Floicer Garden," OCTOBER 19, 1907. 


Adenophora Potanini.. 

442 

Ferns, British, as town 


Cabbages, Turning, etc., 
black rot of—(Pseudo- 


plants. 

442 


Figs on walls 

412 

nionas l ampeetris, K. 


Forcing-house, the 

450 

Smith). 

446 

Fruit garden 

151 

Camellias in the open air 
in Ireland 

451 , 

Garden diary, extracts 
from a. 

451 

Chrysanthemums, the 


Garden, manuring a 

450 

early-flowering 

414 

Garden, manuring and 


Chrysanthemums out- 


cropping a large 

452 

doors 

444 , 

Garden, mice in .. 

414 

Cineraria leaves, insects 


Garden pests and friends 

410 

on. 

451 

t lardcn work 

450 

Ciivias . 

4*3 

Gladioli, early-flowering 

451 

Conservatory 

450 

Gooseberries, propagat- 


('yclamen* failing 

444 

ing . 

452 

Dahlia, the 

447 

Grapes, late 

451 

Peep cultivation 

4.50 

Grass seed, sowing lawn 

442 

Ferns . 

442 

Herbaceous border 

4.»2 


INDEX. 


Hoeing . 

450 , 

Pa^onies failing .. 

440 

Indoor plants 

413 

Passion flower fruits for 


LanUnas in Cumber- 


dessert . 

111 

land . 

451 

Peaches, early .. 

4.50 

Lathyrus labifolius 


Peaches, two late 

452 

flowering late .. 

443 

Pear for name 

452 

Lilies, growing .. 

443 

Pelargoniums, keeping 

414 

Lixpiat (Eriobotrya ja- 


Pepper Rush (Clethra 


poniea), the 

452 

alnitolia). the .. 

410 

Lupins, pruning .. 

451 

Pergolas IX. 

447 

Mandevillo, suaveolens 


Plant 't what is a horba- 


(the Chili Jasmine) .. 

413 

CCOU8 . 

44S 

Melon plants cankering 

411 

Plants, cutting down 


National Sweet Pea 


herbaceous 

44.3 

Society. 

432 

Plant* for cold-houses . 

451 

Orehard tree planting. 


1 Plants from frames to 


mistakes in 

441 

1 greenhouse, removing 

441 

Outdoor garden .. 

131 

Plants in the green- 


Outdoor plants .. 

417 

house, grouping 

414 


Plants-, window, worm 
attacking 

Plum Early Transparent 

Gage . 

Raspberries 
Rose Jersey Beauty 
Rose Konigin Caro la .. 
Rose M arochal N i e I 
flowering summer and 
autumn.. 

Rose Schneewittchon .. 
Rose show, the autumn 

Roses . 

Roses, eighteen best 
exhibition 
Roses for new bed 
Roses, green-fly on 
Roses, pruning various 
Roses under glass 


i Shot-hole fungus .. 445 
446 Starwort (Aster vimi- 
neua perfect ub), a 

412 | pretty.443 

442 1 Tank, making a .. .. 452 

446 Tennis court, making a 

445 i gravel.143 

1 Tobaccos.1411 

j Trees and shrubs .. 44'J 
451 1 Vegetable garden .. 451 
445 Vegetable Marrow pre- 
445 I serve .450 

445 Vegetables .. .. 450 

' Vine borders, renovat- 

451 1 ing .. .... 412 

446 Vines in had condition 442 
446 ! Week's work, the eotn- 

446 | ing .451 

446 i Willow, gall on .. 440 


FRUIT. 


MISTAKES IN ORCHARD TREE 
PLANTING. 

It is a simple matter to say what kind of soil 
and situation should be selected for hardy 
fruit culture, but it is, I fear, a rare, thing 
to find the right formation in the right place, 
lu fait, I believe it more frequently occurs 
that the question of disposing of certain 
pieces of land more often leads to the plant¬ 
ing of orchards than would otherwise he the 
case. If such land happens to l>e of the 
right sort, and will respond to the kind of 
cultivation adopted, all is well, but should its 
composition entail careful consideration to 
securing the best conditions for hardy fruit- 
tree growth, there is just a possibility of a 
mistake being made in its preparation. 
Writers, n-s a rule, select a loam of good 
depth, and rightly, too, for orchard trees, and 
this they recommend cultivating deeply. If 
naturally well drained and rich in readily 
soluble constituents of plant food, trenching 
is just- the thing for it. These conditions, 
however, will not obtain in one out of a 
hundred of the plots given up to fruit cul¬ 
ture. yet trenching, he it sand or clay, deep 
or shallow, is carried out with the same per¬ 
sistency by some ns if it were mellow loam. 
Recently 1 catne across a small, newly-formed 
orchard, where the owner did not consider 
the initial expense, provided healthy, fruitful 
trees were secured. The soil was of a sandy 
nature, 3 feet deep, with a. substratum of 
sandy rock. B\ a regular system of top 
dressing with manure, the surface 0 inches 
were in a very fertile condition, but the lower 
portion, a.s will readily be imagined, was 
rather poor. By way of preparing this laud 
for orchard trees, the person responsible for 
the work had it trenened to its full depth. 
The rich surface soil was placed in the bot¬ 
tom, and the barren sand brought to the top. 
In due course the trees were planted and the. 
space occupied by their roots heavily mulched 
with manure. As will naturally he concluded, 
the plants existed, but the growth was very 
poor. The mistake made in putting the fer- 
tiU? layer of soil so deep in this case was two 
fold. It was beyond the reach of the plants’ 
roots for immediate requirements, and it 
would eventually draw them down to a- cold, 
ungenial position. Under such unfavourable 
conditions the trees could not. avoid getting 
into a bad state of health. A few practical 
lessons of this kind would go further in con¬ 
vincing cultivators of the errors of their ways 
than pages of sound instruction in the gar 
dening press. Now' the above mistake has 
boon discovered, the best means are being 
taken to bring up the barren surface soil to 
its maximum of fertility by heavily dressing 
it with liquid and solid manures, bone meal, 
and sulphate of potash during the winter 
months. 

Another example of an error in judgment in 
connection with the preparation of sites for 
fruit-trees on heavy soiLe^me under mtr notice 

Digitized by CjQOgle 


some time ago. About 9 inches of the surface 
of this were fairly good heavy loam, and be¬ 
low this were layers of gravel and clay. In 
this ease only 5 feet square was trenched 
21 feet deep for each tree, but the same mis¬ 
take was made in this instance ns in the fore¬ 
going in placing the surface portion in the 
bottom and the bottom on the top. As this 
was done early in autumn, and the clay and 
gravel mixed with well-decomposed organic 
matter from the refuse heap and ridged, the 
winter’s frosts, rains, and atmosphere ameli¬ 
orated the conditions of the mass in favour of 
the plants’ requirements. The trees were 
planted in spring, and did fairly well for a 
few years, hut when the roots had permeated 
the soil -in thi m limited space an un.<iCti*fuctory 
statev of'tilings manifested itself. In order 
to find out the cause of crippled.growth, some 
of the trees were examined r ai*“their’ roots, 
when it was found that the major port i air'ofJ 
these had gone down into the bottomilaver,* 
used all the food it contained, and vwcaa* sfcrk- 
ing for more in the walls of clay and gravel by 
which they were surrounded at that depth. 
Had all the ground been treated in the same 
manner a.s the 5 feet square for each tree, 
even although it was a mistake to bury the 
best soiL so deep, in all probability the 
orchard would have become a fairly satisfac¬ 
tory one. At this stage there was no reason 
why the whole should not be trenched, so far 
as the plants were concerned, hut men and 
money were scarce. and a course of surface¬ 
feeding was -decided upon instead, to try to 
retrieve the ground lost. 

Both of these orchards were laid down in 
Grass, so that there would be no digging to 
destroy the surface roots. The question of 
securing a mat of feeders near the surface 
seems to he generally under estimated, even 
although frequently pointed out. Yet the 
most casual observer cannot fail to see the 
difference in the health and fruitfulness of 
trees with the majority of their roots within 
the first 15 inches of the surface soil, and 
those whose roots are in a cold, lower layer. 
Mistakes like these referred to may be ex¬ 
ceptions, but by pointing them out others of 
a similar nature may be avoided and more 
rational methods obtain. N. 


PASSION FLOWER FRUITS FOR 
DESSERT. 

It is not often one finds the Passion-flower 
grown under glass for the production of its 
fruit, and thus the inspection of a well- 
trained and extremely productive specimen, 
growing in the Hopsford House gardens, near 
Frome, was, to me. a particularly pleaeing 
sight. The plant, having its roots unfettered 
in an open border beneath the greenhouse 
stages, seemed to find conditions of the most 
congenial character. The plant, hanging in 
graceful festoons from the roof trellises, pro¬ 
vided a further fascinating aspect in the 
great wealth of purple, egg shaped fruits. 
There must have been an equally fdeasant 
floral picture in the early season, and. apart 
altogether from the fact that the fruits are 


edible, and afford a pleasant, addition to the 
dessert, they are worth space from a decora¬ 
tive point of view. No doubt, an acquired t as to 
must be cultivated in order to make these 
fruits acceptable for dessert. They would 
seem to partake somewhat of the flavour of 
Gooseberries. After cutting through the 
shell the pulp is available by means of a 
small dessert, spoon, and, presumably, an 
addition of castor sugar would make it more 
toothsome and palatable. W. H. 

MELON PLANTS CANKERING. 
(Reply to F. White.) 

This disease is the most destructive of any 
that attacks the Melon plant, and unless 
every precaution is taken, it is very certain 
to make its appearance. This is generally 
when the plants have covered their allotted 
[space, and are swelling off their fruit. If a 
'plant. l>cgin« to v flag under the sun’s power 
at that stage, no remedy that we know of will 
stay the progress of the disease; the plant, 
may linger and the fruit swell a little, hut it 
is never good in flavour. It is clear, there¬ 
fore, that, the disease has been injuring the 
plant some time before; consequently, the 
grower’s efforts should be directed towards 
preventing its attack, by making a daily exa¬ 
mination of the collar of the plant. The 
disease may be discovered and its progress 
stopped by the following method : Draw the 
soil away from the plant down to the roots, 
and allow the stem time to dry. Then get. a 
few lumps of grey, or. as some call it, stone 
lime, fresh from the kiln, and slake it with 
a few drops of water, until it breaks down 
very fine, which it will do in a few minutes. 
Rub it round the stem with the linger while 
it is hot. allowing it to remain exposed for 
twenty-four hours. Give another application 
with some fresh slaked lime, after that a 
few handfuls of powdered brick or some 
coarse sand, with the fine portion washed 
out. Do not replace the soil, and avoid 
moistening it in any way. We have never 
known this to fail if taken in time—that is, 
when the plant is first attacked. The canker 
can be seen by a small brown spot appearing 
at the junction of the stem with the soil im¬ 
mediately above the roote. As it is best, if 
possible, to prevent these attacks, the follow 
ing things should he avoided. Do not plant 
in too great a bulk of soil. It. is surprising 
what a small amount of soil a plant will 
thrive in, provided other conditions are 
favourable, such as bottom-heat, and a. free 
drainage. Melons like plenty of water in the 
early stages of growth, hut it must pass 
away quickly. Rich soil is nearly certain to 
bring canker, and a light one encourages a 
loose, straggling, and unfruitful growth. A 
ruthcr heavy loam, that has been laid up 
some time, made firm, and without manure, 
suits Melons best. It. is preferable to plant, 
shallow on a ridge; no water should he 
allowed to settle about, the stems. Wide 
variations of temperature favour canker; 
cold water must be avoided. Melon plants 
require plenty vf sun and only slight shading 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 















a-2 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


October 19, 1997 


to prevent their being sculdod. These re¬ 
marks so far have reference to Melons grown 
in houses with hot-water pipes for bottom- 
heat. In manure frames, however, they are 
grown ecjually as well, and, owing to the 
manure, less moisture is needed, whether by 
syringing or at the roots. 


FIGS ON WALLS. 

The chief requisites in Fig culture are a 
well-drained site in a fairly good south as¬ 
pect (east or west will do as well as south), 
and thin training of the branches. To bear 
well, the wood must be well ripened, and to 
this end the wood of a large-leaved plant 
like the Fig must be so trained that the air 
and sunshine can penetrate to every part, 
so that all the young wood ripens and be¬ 
comes firm, and in due time puis forth 
abundance of Figs. It is always wise to keep 
touch of the roots, as in this way, when wo 
hnd they are getting too deep in the earth, 
we can undermine them in front, and bring 
them back to the right position. When the 
plants begin to make long-jointed wood, and 
very large, luxuriant foliage, it may safely 
be concluded the roots are going astray, and 
the next autumn or spring they should be 
brought back in the way suggested, by open¬ 
ing a trench in front, and getting under thorn 
and lifting thorn nearer the surface. It is 
well to remora lie r that the best soil is a 
medium loam from a limestone or chalk dis- I 
triot, if possible, though lime rubbish may 
easily be added where that necessary mate¬ 
rial is deficient in quantity. The time to 
prune Figs is in summer, by thinning out the 
young wood, so that only enough is left to 
bear the next year’s crop; but. there will 
always be a branch or two to cut out or to 
shorten back in the spring, when the trees 
are re-trained. This acts beneficially, as 
tending to keep every part of the tree well 
supplied with young bearing wood. The Fig 
in the open air will only bring to perfection 
one crop in a year; therefore all young fruits 
showing in August and September should be 
picked off when quito small. Protection 
(north of Lqndod. at any rate) is necessary 
in severe winters, and as we can never tell 
when a severe winter is coining, wise people 
protect lightly every year. The protection of 
Fig-trees is a very simple matter. The trees 
are unnailed towards the end of November 
or beginning of December, the branches 
drawn together, and covered with evergreen 
branches if in a conspicuous position; if 
otherwise, dry straw will do. They remain 
covered till March, they are partially un¬ 
covered, and the covering is finally removed 
and the trees pruned and trained in April. 


your freshly added soil. Water copiously 
until you are satisfied that the soil is mois¬ 
tened to the depth of the border. We should 
not hesitate to cut off the roots that extend 
beyond the border-line if there bo a goodly 
proportion present therein. If, on the other 
hand, all active feeding roots have passed 
outside, then first endeavour to encourage 
new roots by the addition of new soil to the 
border, keeping this moist. The age of the 
Vines is such that wholly lifting them, un¬ 
less very carefully done, may end in disaster. 
We have reason, however, to believe that, 
with surface treatment and a regular system 
of watering, new roots and new life will be 
imparted, with a much improved crop in 
future. We can recall instances where 
Vines that had been much neglected in the 
matter of root treatment responded readily to 
a change of management, bearing heavy crops 
of fine fruit. Without active, healthy, and 
fairly abundant roots, this could not be ex¬ 
pected. Vines delight in good soil; and a 
surfacing of fresh horse-manure without the 
straw has been sometimes an aid to surface- | 
root activity. Acting on the foregoing lines, 
there is no reason why your crops should fail 
so signally another year, and w'e strongly 
advise an immediate course of renovation.] 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 


FERNS. 


BRITISH FERNS 


VINES IN BAD CONDITION. 

I HATE forwarded to you a bunch of Grapes. 
Kindly tell me what is the cause of their going like 
the enclosed? I have just come to the place, and 
find that all the Grapes in one of the houses have 
gone lil«; those sent. I have made inquiries about 
the house, and find there is a border inside and out¬ 
side. There is a gravel path over the border, and 
I am told there is a brick wall to keep the Vine- 
roots in, but I find they have gone outside. On 
examining the inside border I find it is very dry. 
About two years ago or so a drain, about 2 feet 
deep, was cut through the Vine border outside. The 
Vines are between thirty and forty years old.—F. C. 

[The remarks which you make concerning 
the Vines which have recently come under 
your charge clearly prove a case of neglect 
as affecting the roots, if not the Vines them¬ 
selves. A brick wall is not of itself a suffi¬ 
cient barrier to the roots unless this is se¬ 
curely cemented. The fact of the border 
being allowed to become so dry is of itself 
sufficient to cause Vine roots to ramble away 
in search of moisture, and the gravel path 
on the border, as well as the new drain 
passing through it, are each contributing 
causes to the shanking of the Grapes and 
poor condition of the Vines. Much may be 
done by partially lifting the surface roots, 
replacing the old soil with new. incorporat¬ 
ing at the same time some decayed manure 
and prepared Vine border compound, sold by 
sundriesmen for the purpose. Some lime 
rubble and burnt refuse are also advisable. 
These steps we advise to be taken at once, 
while yet the leaves arc on the plants, for 
Vines display much activity of root in the 
autumn, and in your case there would be a 
material gain in havirffHew roots in 

Digitized by VjjOOvIL 


NOTES AND 11EPLIES. 

Plum Early Transparent Cage.— This is a 
variety which seldom fails to bear, and this 
season lias been no exception to the rule. 
In size (lie fruits are larger than Old Green 
Gage, and they also differ from the latter in 
colour, which is more golden and prettily 
marbled with crimson on the side facing the 
eun, which gives them a handsome appear¬ 
ance. This season the fruits have been excep¬ 
tionally fine and abundant, but flavour was 
not quite so rich, which is not to be wondered 
at, seeing how sunless the summer has been. 
As a rule it is richly flavoured, and is an ex¬ 
cellent Gage to plant against a wall facing 
south or south-east, to supply early fruit for 
the dessert. Another name for it is Rivers’ 
Early Apricot, but it should not be con¬ 
founded with Transparent Gage, which is 
quite a different variety, and distinguishable 
by its awkward habit of growth.—A. W. 

Raspberries.— The article upon making a 
new bed reminds one again of the excellent, 
crops that have everywhere been gathered 
this summer, showing that this fruit prefers 
a cool root-run. Probably we who have a 
warm soil have derived more benefit than 
those who have a retentive soil, and espe¬ 
cially up in Scotland, where they look for 
a fine bright autumn. That the stools have 
benefited by the frequent showers is seen 
when one notes the extra strong canes made 
this season, which, we hope, will have a 
chance of becoming well ripened during Sep¬ 
tember and October. Autumn-fruiting 
varieties will be more or less a failure in 
many parts, for certain, as the nights are ex¬ 
ceptionally cold for the first w'eek of the ninth 
month; these, too. hftve made; stout canes, 
but warmth is required if much ripe fruit is 
to be had from them. I was glad to see ad¬ 
vised the cutting away of the old fruiting- 
canes of the summer varieties immediately 
after the fruit is cleared ; it is beneficial in all 
seasons, and doubly so in the one now so far 
advanced. Where a heavy mulch has been 
applied, I advise its removal at once, so that, 
what little sun we do have may act benefi¬ 
cially and warm the soil, also the roots, as 
they do not penetrate so very deeply into 
the ground.— East Devon. 

Renovating Vine-borders.— This is a good 
time to lift Vine-roots and make new borders 
beneath them. When properly done, the 
effect is magical, and if done now there need 
be no loss of crop. Do not fill the borders 
with manure. Good turfy loam, bone-meal, 
and some good Vine manure will be better. 
Basic slag is also useful. Wood-ashes and 
old plaster with the hair mixed with it tend 
to keep the border open and sweet. Do not 
bury the roots too deeply ; from 6 inches to 
9 inches will be about right, and the long, 
naked roots may be shortened to induce the 
furnishing of fibres and keep the roots near 
home. Vine roots do not move very early, 
hut when the foliage expands they move 
rapidly. Make the border a bit firpi before 
laying in the roots, 


AS TOWN PLANTS. 
There are no more useful plants in existence 
for decoration than our hardy British Ferns. 
They are the best, of all plants for town 
gardens, in which their graceful fronds keep 
tresh and green where Pelargoniums and simi¬ 
lar plants could not exist. Their usefulness 
in a cut state in admitted, else they would not 
l»e brought to market; but it is the com mo u 
Brake which is selected, a kind which is the 
least graceful of any. It is, however, their 
utility in a growing state to which I wish to 
direct attention. In stands in sitting-rooms, 
even in the darkest streets, they will remain 
fresh and continue to throw' up their cheerful- 
looking green fronds year after year. Small 
gardens, too, even though surrounded by high 
walls, might be made attractive simply by the 
introduction of a few Ferns. The great draw¬ 
back to British' Ferns is, that they can be 
bought cheaply, or be had for the trouble of 
carrying homo after a ramble among the 
country lanes. In nearly every house the 
inmates of which ijre fond of flowers, will be 
found a Wardian case, or a pan.covered by a 
bell-glass, in which a few exotic Ferns are 
vainly trying to Jive, and look healthy. Such 
Ferns receive every attention ; their glass 
covers,are now' and then removed to give them 
air, and, yet, in point of freshness and green¬ 
ness, they c-annot be compared with hardy 
Ferns, which only require a little water to keep 
them in good health. For small .stands, tfje 
best suited are Asplenium Adi^ptum-nigrum, 
A. in&rinum, A. Trichomanes, Blechnum Spi- 
cant, and Polypodium vulgare. These are all 
dwarf kinds which make very effective table- 
ornaments, if planted in 10-inch seed-pans, 
and if the surface of the soil is covered with 
fresh wood Moss. Should an ordinary pan 
not be considered sufficiently’ornamental, one 
of a rustic character, which -is generally 
covered by a bell-glass, may be obtained; 
those made of virgin Cork are aLso w-ell 
adapted for this purpose. 

For furnishing window-boxes, singly in pots, 
or large stands, varieties of a more robust 
growth than those just named should be 
chosen, say, such kinds as Athyrium Filix- 
foemina, Polystichum acuieatum, Lastrea 
dilatata. L. Filix-mas, Polystichum angula^e, 
Osmund a regalis, Scolopendrium vulgare, and 
others of a similar character. Large stands 
of these look well placed in rooms, and are 
not readily injured by draughts to which they 
are subjected. The roots of euch Ferns as 
these, though lifted from a hedge-row, when 
planted in some. Loudon backyard, push up 
fronds in spring as fresh as if they had never 
been disturbed. Most Ferns, in the growing 
season, require plenty of water, though even 
on this point they are very accommodating. 

I have seen plants of Asplenium Adiantum- 
nigrum growing so nenr the edge of water 
that their roots have been in it, and I have 
seen it also on hill sides growing equally well, 
overhung by rocks, which must have screened 
it even from rain. Out of all the Ferns just 
enumerated the one which revels in dampness 
more than the others is Asplenium Tricho- 
manes. Of this elegant little Fern I have 
seen some fronds quite 1 foot in height, when 
growing near the water. 

One of the most lovely sights possible is*a 
ferny lane. Last summer I saw one which I 
shall never forget; it formed a private road 
to the gate-lodge of the house of a friend, and 
was over a mile in length, the banks on each 
side being high, and one mass of Ferns and 
wild flowers. The road itself was very nar¬ 
row, overhung by trees, which, forming, as 
they did, a leafy tunnel at least half a mile 
in length,, produced a charming effect. Out 
of this shady grove I brought some Ferns, 
which have Quite repaid me for mv trouble. 
Amongst hardy kinds the ParsLey Fern (Allo- 
6 orus crispus) should not be forgotten. It is 
dwarf in growth, has bright foliage, and even 
when planted in a pan has on excellent effect. 
Town dwellers who do not find ordinary plants 
to thrive with them so satisfactorily as they 
could wish, would do well to take my advice, 
and import a few Ferns from the country to 


URl 


:ha 



October 19, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


443 


their places ; were they to do this; I feel con¬ 
fident that they would not be disappointed 
with tne result. In some little London 
gardens I have seen Ferns in excellent condi¬ 
tion, and, if well'attended to, they last good 
for years. ‘ A. 


INDOOR PLANTS. 

MANDEVILLA BUAVEOLENS (THE 
CIIILl JASMINE). 

Being so nearly hardy, this should be grown 
in the coolest house, for if exposed to fire- 
heat in winter, it soon-gets smothered in in 
sects; but, kept clean and well ripened, and 
very lightly pruned in early spring, the plants 
will, when a few years old, surprise anyone 
who has oftly seen half-starved, insect-in- 
fceted specimens growing in pots. Great 
clusters of the pure white blossoms appear 
all over the plant, and these are very sweetly 


above, the looser in reason the growth is left, 
the better the effect when in flower. Seeds 
are offered, and should be sown as soon as 
received in a warm, moist house, the plants 
grown on as quickly a6 possible, but not in 
much heat. Cuttings may be taken of the 
short, stubby side shoots and placed in pots 
of sandy soil, plunged in a gentle bottom 
heat until rooted. It is important that the 
plants do not get pot-bound before (shifting, 
as this checks the growth ami renders it more 
liable to insect attacks. 


CLIVIAS. 

I When grown in an ordinary cool greenhouse 
J it is generally late spring before these plants 
are seen at their best, by which time the con- 
| servatory is crowded with many other flower¬ 
ing plants, and cut bloom is to be had both 
in quantity and variety from outside borders. 
A nice group of these plants is pleasing at 


I in the flowers compared with those from 
plants which have received more generous 
treatment. 

The cultivation is very simple, and they 
may be grown most successfully in a cool 
greenhouse or even in a brick pit for one half 
of the year. If a number of old specimens 
have to be dealt with, some little patience is 
necessary to disentangle the mass of fleshy 
| roots and prevent the base of the different 
offsets being bruised. Having succeeded in 
J dividing them, the different growths should 
be graded into sizes and potted into such pots 
| as are likely to prove most convenient for the 
purpose required. I am using those of about 
| 7 inches in diameter, which take either three 
of the strongest or four smaller plants. AIL 
I the bruised portion of the roots must be cut 
off neatly, and if the foliage is inclined to fall 
over the side of the pots, this should be kept 
in position with strips of matting and a few 
small sticks until new roots form. The com- 



The Chili Jasmine (Mandevilla suaveolens). From a photograph of flowers growing in the op« 


scented. If trained up one or two of the prin¬ 
cipal rafters in a large, cool house, and some 
of the shoots allowed to depend from the main 
stems, it has a very fine effect. In many 
places there are glass-covered corridors and 
similar structures, that could, by planting 
this Mandevilla, be made very gay all through 
the 6uramer months, and ‘by starting the 
plants early, and keeping the young growths 
well syringed, it will flower earlier and more 
continuously. In some of the southern coun¬ 
ties, in warm positions, the plant succeeds 
outside, and probably in mild winters it would 
prove hardy anywhere; but severe frest will 
kill it outright unless the roots are thoroughly 
established and well covered, and even then 
the stems would be killed. Still, it is well 
worth trying in suitable places, and one good 
flowering would well repay a lot of care. 
Any good soil will grow it,* but the position 
must be well drained, whether under glass 
or in the open. The uaype points ef the 
shoots only need be cu| baefc/^nd /rg tinted 

Digitized c* 1 


Igftrrtcd 


any time, but much more so, and certainly 
more useful, when they are induced to flower 
at mic^-winter and onwards, when for a time 
after Chrysanthemums are over there is a 
lack of variety, especially of flowers that will 
last in a good condition for any length of 
time after they are cut. Indeed, it is this 
latter quality that makes the Olivias so 
valuable and such a great help to those 
who are pressed for cut bloom in large quan¬ 
tities during the dull months of the year. 
By changing the water frequently, I have had 
large vases with as many as a dozen trusses 
of bloom in them which have not required 
changing for a fortnight, in spite of the try¬ 
ing influence of the heat and effects of gas in 
large reception rooms. Like the Agapan- 
thus, it is often considered unnecessary to re¬ 
pot Clivias until the roots, from the want of 
room, burst the pots. The plants will con¬ 
tinue to exist for many years under such un¬ 
favourable conditions, but there is no com¬ 
parison between the size and depth of colour 


air in Mr. Beamish’s garden at Cork. 


post used i9 chiefly turfy loam, to which are 
added coarse sand, charcoal, and about one- 
fourth part spent Mushroom manure. Good 
drainage should be secured and the compost 
rammed firm, but not sufficient to bruise the 
roots. The object of potting as early as pos-. 
sible is to get growth completed by July, 
which wilL give a season of rest and enable 
the first flowers to form without much heat 
before Christmas. Having potted up the de¬ 
sired number, keep them by themselves in an 
intermediate-house, where they can be dewed 
over until growth commences, when water is 
increased according to the progress made by 
the roots. When the plants are growing 
rapidly, plenty of light is necessary to give 
strength to the foliage, hut it would be ad¬ 
visable to shield it from the full force of the 
sun at mid-day. After the plants have made 
their growth, they should have plenty of ven¬ 
tilation, and gradually gii'e them cooler treat¬ 
ment until about a month or six weeks before 
they: are required to flower, when, with extra 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 








444 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED .. 


October 19, 1907 


heat and water, the trusses will push up at 
once, and a succession be maintained by 
introducing a few plants once a fortnight into 
the forcing house. 

NOTES AND REPLIES, 

Keeping Pelargoniums. - Will you be kind 
enough to give me the treatment of bedding Gerani¬ 
ums throughout the winter? I took the cuttings 
about the middle of August, and inserted them singly 
in 3-inch pots. They are now well rooted, so l have 
removed them into a cool greenhouse. Will you 
please tell me how I should manage them now, as 1 
lost most of them last year? I can give fire-heat, if 
required.—G eranium. 

[The lx?st position in which to keep your 
rooted Pelargonium-cuttings during the win¬ 
ter is on a shelf or in a good light, position in 
the greenhouse, where the minimum winter 
temperature does not at any time fall below 
40 degs. Only give them enough Water to 
keep them from shrivelling.] 

Cyclamens failing — 1 shall be much obliged if 
you can explain the cause of the failure of my Cycla¬ 
men seedlings this year? In the spring I raised in the 
conservatory over fifty plants from seeds. They did 
well till about six weeks ago, when they begun to go 
off as per sample, and I have only half a dozen left.— 
W. 

[The Cyclamen sent was very badly at¬ 
tacked by thrips, and mealy-bug was also 
sheltered in the unfolding leaves. The 
greatest amount of mischief was done by the 
small yellow thrips, which attack the leaves 
even before they are developed. Vaporising 
with the X L All Vaporiser will destroy these 
pests. A conservatory is far from an ideal 
place to grow small Cyclamens, which would 
he, during the summer, much better in a gar¬ 
den frame.] 

Grouping plants in the greenhouse.— It 

is the custom in the greenhouse at Kew to 
arrange a number of some of the most strik¬ 
ing plants in a group, either by themselves or 
with suitable associates. In this way, a 
pleasing combination is formed of a number of 
plant* of Jacobinia chrvsostephana, with its 
heads of beautiful orange-coloured blossoms, 
alternated with dwarf, bushy plants of Lan- 
tana salvinefolia (L. delicatissima of gardens), 
each bearing numerous clusters of ils pretty, 
lavender-coloured flowers. Apart from its 
value in bush‘form, this Lantana also makes 
a delightful greenhouse climber, whose 
flowering period extends over the greater part 
of the year. Another showy group consisted 
of Amin Lilies dotted over a groundwork of 
Salvia splendens. Several varieties of 
Nerines formed a bright and effective group, 
hut, of them all, the well-known N. Pother 
gilli major was the finest. Some hanging- 
baskets, furnished each with one variety of 
double - flowered Ivy - leaved Pelargonium, 
showed well their value for such a purpose, 
while a couple of baskets, from their uncom¬ 
mon character, pleased me much. They were 
planted with Bouvardia leiantha, whose 
drooping twigs were eaeh terminated by a 
cluster of small tubular blossoms, of a vivid 
scarlet tint. Though an old species, having 
lx'cn introduced from Mexico in 18b0, this 
Bouvardia is still well worthy of a place in 
the greenhouse, one of its merits being that it 
is quite distinct from any of the numerous 
garden forms. Of climbers. Abutilon Golden 
Fleece was very noticeable, and Tibouchina 
semi-decan dr a (Lasiandra maorantha). cloth¬ 
ing the end of the house, formed a delightful 
feature.—X. 


Removing plants from frames to green¬ 
house. -Every year as autumn closes in and 
the air becomes’ cooler wc are reminded that 
many plants grown on during the summer for 
beautifying the greenhouse in the dark days 
have been in frames for weeks past. I hese 
include soft-wooded things like Primulas. 
Cinerarias, and Cyclamens. Besides these 
there are Azaleas,' Heaths, and Camellias, 
which should be moved indoors at. least early 
in October. Sometimes the question of 
affording sufficient ventilation to such plants 
after the shift does not receive proper atten¬ 
tion and they do not seem to progress. Tins 
point ought not to be overlooked. The exact 
time for removal must depend on climatic 
conditions, as well as question of locality. but 
it. is well to remember that it is better to 
err on the side of being a day or two early 
Ilian to run the risk of frost". Should the 
house lie not quite ready, then mats or bags 
onuhf to be at hand to cover the frames at 


nigiiA, especially 

gl aSM-L-W! OODDA9 


I il llll I « • » in l I till * • 


r the 


OHRY8ANTHEMUM8. 

THE EARLY-FLOWERING CHRYSAN¬ 
THEMUMS. 

The moist and sunless weather of the late 
summer has produced many vagaries in the 
character of well-known varieties of the 
early-flowering Chrysanthemums. Old 6tools 
thaL were left comparatively undisturbed 
came into flower at abnormal periods, and to 
such an extent was this noted that really fine 
blossoms of standard sorts were gathered 
throughout July and August. Quite differ 
cut has been the result with plants propagated 
in the earlier months of the year. For years 
past it has been possible to gather blossoms 
of I lie members of the Mine. Marie Masse 
family throughout late August and early 
September, and this from cuttings rooted in 
the spring. During the present flowering 
season we have met with many instances 
where the plants have not made anything like 
a reasonable display before the earliest days 
of October, and at the time of writing (Octo¬ 
ber 9th) the flowers of these same varieties 
are only just now showing colour. Mr. 
William Sydenham, of Tamworth, invited, on 
the :28th of September, interested growers 
and others to inspect growing plants of every 
variety of the early Chrysanthemum known 
to be in commerce. The number of varieties 
now runs into several hundreds, and a batch 
of each one is pLanted to show its value in 
the garden. This well-known grower is op¬ 
posed to disbudding, so often followed in pri¬ 
vate gardens, he maintaining that the plants 
and flowers lose much of their beauty and 
attractiveness when manipulated in this 
fashion. The principle laid down at Tam- 
worth is that the plants must be grown in the 
open border, and not disbudded, and that 
their quality be judged on that basis. Owing 
to the lateness of the season, the display was 
not so free as usual. 

Readers of Gardening Illustrated will, 
doubtless, be interested to learn the names 
of some of the finest sorts, and in calling 
attention to these it is just as well to empha¬ 
sise the fact that they are alL regarded from 
the outdoor garden point of view. All that 
the plants require to ensure their doing well 
is to give them a good open position and well 
till the quarters set auart for them. Roi des 
Blancs has again proved its value as a pure 
white Japanese. Mrs. William Sydenham 
was much admired for its rich chestnut-crim¬ 
son blossoms. The flowers are not over-large, 
but the colour is very striking, and the plant 
has a good habit. Goacher’s Crimson is still 
regarded as a very fine, bright crimson 
Japanese that is always good. The flowers 
are large and the plant free flowering. 
Guinea Gold is not a large flower, but as the 
blossoms all seem to develop at one time and 
make such dense clusters, the effect, of the 
rich blight yellow blossoms is very fine. 
Elstob Yellow, which may he regarded as an 
improved form of Horace Martin, was past its 
best. The colour is much the same as in the 
variety named, but the flowers are rather 
fuller and a trifle larger. Lady Mary Hope 
is a large creamywhite flower with a rich 
cream centre. The plant, about -.V feet high, 
is free flowering, and has a rather loose 
habit. The blossoms mav he gathered in 
beautiful sprays. Maxim is a bright chestnut 
flower that has much to commend it. The 
plant is free flowering, developing its blos¬ 
soms on fairly long footstalks, and the height 
of the plant is about 4 feet. Harvest Home, 
that has been in commerce for some years 
now, is doing exceedingly well this season. 
We have seen it in both disbudded and undis- 
budded form, and the colour has been very 
striking- quite the brightest of the chestnut- 
crimson Japanese sorts. The golden reverse 
to the florets and the golden tips enhance its 
beauty. Among the newer yellow sorts, Car¬ 
melite, growing about 2 feet high, is con¬ 
spicuous. The flowers are not large, and 
they should not be disbudded. They are de¬ 
veloped in pleasing sprays on sturdy growths, 
and their rich butter yellow colour is most 
effective. In Chatillon. a new and distinct 
variety of French origin, the flowers, when 
finished, make a beautifully fluffy, ball like 
creation. The catalogues describe the colour 
as rosy-salmon, but the colour as we saw it 


was a shade of chrome-yellow. Some of the 
rich bronze-coloured sorts were very beauti¬ 
ful. Particularly handsome was Nina Blic-k. 
This is largely grown in the open for market, 
and is ideal for the purpose. The colour is a 
shade of bright crimson-bronze, paling some¬ 
what with age. It is a profuse bloomer. 
Rosie is another flower of a warm colour— 
really a terra-cotta bronze. The plant has a 
capital brandling habit, and is most effective 
in the border. Improved Masse is the best of 
its colour, which may be described as a pleas¬ 
ing shade of rosy-mauve, with a eilvery-w hite 
reverse. The flowers are borne in beautiful 
sprays. This variety must not be confounded 
with the popular Mine. Marie Masse. Fee 
Japonaise is a fairy like flower, with pretty, 
twisted florets. The colour is a creamy prim¬ 
rose, with a richer coloured ceiftre. and the 
plant is free flowering. Claret, although a 
.small flowered sort, is a most effective plant 
in the border, being extremelv free flowering, 
and the colour a shade of bright claret. 

E. G. 


CHRYSANTHEMUMS OUTDOORS. 


We do not make much, if, indeed, any, head¬ 
way in raising for the outdoor garden varie¬ 
ties which may he called really hardy sorts, 
such as will live through the winter for some 
years, and make their growth and develop a 
’crop of blooms without any protection what¬ 
ever. At the present time a good selection 
of varieties can be had which, in reasonable 
seasons, produce a good crop of blooms, al¬ 
though, of course, much depend* upon the 
weather experienced at the time they are in 
beauty. Where blossoms are required for 
cutting, some of the best kinds might be 
planted in batches in the kitchen garden, 
choosing a warm border. In cottage gardens 
one often sees in flower sorts that are hardly- 
met with nowadays out of such gardens, as 
the old Emperor of China or Cottage Pink. 
Many are Pompons, a section well adapted 
for out-of-door culture. The petals being re¬ 
flexed and generally imbricated, do not hold 
the water from heavy dews and rain, as in the 
case of incurved sorts, for instance, which are 
quite useless for outdoor growth. 

Plants which have been growing in the 
same place for several years get worn out and 
exhausted. They should be dug up and 
divided, discarding the centre of the roots if 
plenty of stock is obtainable from the outer 
parts of the clump, where will be found much 
more vigorous sucker-like growths than those 
in the centre. Pieces of roots 3 inches square 
make nice bushes the first year if a little 
fresh soil is placed about them, just digging 
over the ground deeply, at the same time add¬ 
ling some half-rotten manure. If the plants 
are put out on a new piece of the garden, it 
will not be necessary to add new soil, but 
where they are simplv dug up and replanted 
again, it will he essential to give fresh soil 
to promote a free growth, without which a 
full crop of blossoms cannot be bud. Care 
must be taken that the soil is not made too 
rich, or the growth will he immature. In 
that condition the plants will suffer much 
more from frost during the winter, very likelv 
to the extent of losing the whole crop of 
flowers. The soil about the roots should be 
made firm to induce a stocky growth, which 
produces the best blooms and withstands cold 
weather. When growth starts in the spring, 
if the shoots are likely to crowd each other 
they should he thinned, which induces sturdi¬ 
ness a desirable point in tlw* after success. 

Those who contemplate growing hardv 
Chrysanthemums for the first time should 
make a proper selection of kinds and choose 
a suitable site, which is very important. 
Avoid an aspect which faces either north or 
west and is overshadowed bv tall trees, the 
growth of the plants in such a position as 
either of those named being immature. The 
best position is a bolder facing south, 
backed upon the north and east sides bv 
shrubs or other protection. If the plants are 
cavefullv cultivated during the summer it 
will not be time ill spent to provide some 
means of protection from early or sudden 
frovsts. ___ 


Lex to Volume XXVIII.- The bindinu covers 
if <° 'ouch, post free. Is. M.) and Index (3d . 
-r.-e, 31d > lor Volume XXVIII. are nowjeadv. 


UR 


HAMPA 



October 19, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


445 


ROSES. 

ROSE KOMGIN CAROLA. 

IVere it not for the divided centre of this 
charming Rose, it would be an ideal variety. 
Even with this defect, which is not always 
noticeable, it is a splendid, showy sort, with 
huge blossoms, made up of extraordinarily 
large petals of a delightful shade of satin 
rose, the edges beautifully reflexed and sil- 
verv-white. Reputedly, it was raised from 
a cross between Caroline Testout and Vis¬ 
countess Folkestone, and one docs not find it 
hard to believe this, for these two beautiful 
Roses seem to be happily blended in tne 
variety under notice, excepting that there is 
not quite the vigour of either in its growth. 

Nothing can be more clear and beautiful 
than a half blown blossom of Konigin Carola. 
The petals are more numerous than they are 
in Caroline Testout, and the formation more 
perfect; but perhaps the most telling feature 
of the sort is the very clear colour and 
the white reflexed edges of petals. It can 


blossoms are semi-double, which enables the 
wealth of golden stamens to be so displayed I 
that the flowers at a distance seem to have | 
golden centre petals. The tiny buds, numer¬ 
ously produced, are quite a chrome-yellow, ! 
delicately tipped with rose. For late Sep¬ 
tember and October flowering it is most use¬ 
ful, as well as for summer. Both this variety 
and the purer white Katharina Zemiet make 
lovely objects on short stems, a method of 
growing them that should find much favour 
among those who contemplate forming a Rose 
I garden, for nothing can be prettier than such 
Roses at the various angles, where their 
I beauty will be brought into prominence by the 
isolation afforded.— Rosa. 


THE AUTUMN ROSE SHOW. 

I Amatki'R gardeners who visited the recent 
exhibition of autumn flowering Roses at the 
I Royal Horticultural Hall, Westminster, with 
the object of making a choice of varieties for 
i own growing, would probably have felt bewil¬ 
dered with the great variety seen on every 


tent, can well keep pace with that growth. 
The amateur, with his small garden, w ho cun 
grow hut three or four dozen plants at the 
most, and who wishes to have varieties that 
will do well, needs to be saved from those 
w’hich are miffy or subject to fungoid attacks, 
or have other serious defects. To such a 
grower, a selection by a bond fide, grower and 
authority of, say, two dozen Hybrid Por- 
petuals, the same of Teas and Hybrid Teas, 
and a dozen each of climbers for arches, pil¬ 
lars, pergolas, or fences, and of bush-growing 
garden Roses, would have great value. It is 
not enough that anyone who grows ft few 
only, and with whom, perhaps, one or two 
varieties may have special favour, should re¬ 
commend a list. Still less is it desirable 
that any grower, having particular interest in 
| the sale of any few varieties, should select. 
Possibly the best way to arrive at a correct 
conclusion would he to invite a Rose election. 

| thus getting selections from various parts of 
the Kingdom, and embodying in the final 
selection those only found in the larger num- 
; her of lists. 1 could, looking over the myriads 



Ro3e Konigin Carola. From a photograph in Messrs. W. Paul and Son's nurseries at Waltham Cross, N. 


never replace either Caroline Testout or Vis¬ 
countess Folkestone, but it possesses good 
points not present in either of those sorts, ami 
not the lea«t beautiful are its pretty buds. 1 
rather think the variety war. of Dutch origin, 
being raised by a raiser named Turk, and 
introduced in 1904. It certainly is an in¬ 
stance of wliat can he accomplished in hap¬ 
pily blending two Roses of acknowledged 
merit, and perhaps, if this were more often 
done, even though the colours approximated, 
we might obtain good, useful additions. 

Whore standards or half standards can he 
grown. Konigin Carola should he tried in 
this form, as its somewhat heavy bloom is 
apt to droop, and surely drooping Roses never 
look better than when on standards, and 
their very fault of drooping is often a means 
of preserving the blossoms from the injurious 
effects of rain. Rosa. 

Rose Schneewittchen. This pretty little 
Poly ant ha Rose charms everyone who sees it. 
It is so distinct from the other sorts of this 
delightful group, iiiasnmt^i as its expanded 

Digitized by (jQ glC 


hand, and have found the making of a limited 
selection from «o many very difficult. If the 
flowers of certain varieties were presented as 
remarkably fine, and these were carefully 
i noted for purchase, possibly some exiH'- 
rieneed grower would criticise the selection 
thus: That, variety gives fine blooms only 
here and there, but is far from being a re¬ 
liable grower; another is good only at certain 
times, suffers severely from mildew; another 
ojiens its blooms badly; ami a fourth is 
either a rampant or a very indifferent grower. 
No matter that the flowers a* seen hv our 
amateur were fine, ami pleased him greatly, 
yet. under such adverse criticism, he is eon- 
I strained to scratch the lot and to invite his 
critic* to furnish a selection that shall have 
none of the defects that have been attributed 
to the varieties of his choice. 

We hear it sometimes said that we have 
I too many of this, that, and the other. Cer 
I tainlv. if that objection applies to anything, 
1 it does to Roses, for the numbers of these are 
I swelling by scores every year, and no one 
1 grower, even if having an area acres in ex 


of Roses at the recent show, have made selec¬ 
tions that, so far as the flowers before me 
were in evidence, would have given the 
greatest satisfaction. But then there is always 
the possibility that some physical weakness 
on the part of some of the selected varieties 
may exist, and it is the experienced grower, 
void of all bias or favouritism, who alone can 
furnish the desired information. 

One thing very noticeable at the show was 
that not only do many of the old Roses hold 
their own still, hut. that many of the newer 
ones, rather over praised in lists or cata¬ 
logues, do not. merit all the praise bestowed 
on them. That is one reason why amateurs 
should not haste to discard old friends to 
make room for some highly praised novelties. 

The recent exhibition, apart from any 
thought of selections of varieties to grow, did 
at least show the wonderful beauty autumn 
Roses have when seasons are favourable. No 
doubt the production of such a wealth of 
varied and brilliant coloured flowers is 
largely due to -Hie delightful weather expe- 
riejujjyjl .through- September. It is hardly 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 





446 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED , 


October 19, 1907 


possible to expect such charming Rose 
weather always, but generally September and 
October are eunny, genial months, and when 
ro, then Roses give beauty, colour, and per¬ 
fume, excelling nil other garden flowers. 
Even Dahlias and autumn Chrysanthemums 
have to pale their ineffectual fires before the 
glorious coloration of late Rosea. A. D. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Rose Jersey Beauty. -Would you kindly inform 
nit whether Jersey Bcuuty is a Hose tliut will climb 
an arch'/—J£. B. 

[Jersey Beauty is a vigorous grower, and is 
charming when growing up the pillars of u 
pergola, roaming over an old fruit-tree, drap¬ 
ing a rustic bridge, or any similar position. 
You will find it figured in our issue of March 
18th, 1905, page 34.] 

Roses under glass.-I have a lean to conserva¬ 
tory, 20 feet by 10 feet, on a N.K. wall, heated by 
hot water (pood heating power), in which 1 am 
anxious to grow Roses, planted inside, and trained, to 
the roof. Earth space beneath front stage, 48 inches 
by sixteen inches, soil clay, subsoil sand. Please tell 
me if 1 can plant two in this space, training main 
rods right and left respectively? Also, please give 
names of three or four .suitable ones of the lighter 
colours, and any directions as to special preparation 
of planting site?—E. P. S. 

[A north-eastern aspect is not a good one 
for Roses under glass, but you would probably 
be successful with good, hardy sorts. You 
eould plant two very well in (lit: space named. 
We should advise you to make the border up 
of good eoil to a depth of at least 2 feet 
<j inches. To do this, you would probably 
need to remove some of the sand. The clay, 
if broken up well, could go to the bottom, 
then some good soil from a part of the garden 
eould be brought in to take the place of sand 
removed. Pot-grown plants would be the 
beat for you to commence with, for these not 
only carry a hall of earth, but they have nice 
long rods, which could lx* trained right and 
left, as you suggest. As new shoots appear 
along the rods, you would select the best 
at a distance of about 12 inches apart, and 
rub off the others. They slumkl make good, 
long growth the first season; then, the follow¬ 
ing spring, give you some fine blossoms upon 
these growths. After flowering, such grow ths 
would be cut back to the main horizontal 
shoots, and new growths would appear to 
take their place. The position would not be 
too open for Teas or Hybrid Teas, and you 
should be able to grow them well if the beds 
are thoroughly well prepared befort 
planting.] 

Pruning various Roses (Y. P .J —Of your 
list of climbers, the Dorothy Perkins should 
have some of the old wood taken away now, 
but all growths made this year are retained 
for the present. In the spring the lateral 
growths may then be shortened to from two 
to six eyes, according to strength ; those of 
greatest strength are retained the longest. 
If, as will certainly be the ease, some of the 
old wood has produced a number of young 
growths this year, then you must well con¬ 
sider whether such old growth can be spared. 
As the plants arc young, probably they will 
require no pruning at all until spring, but 
this Ro«e so soon becomes a dense mass'of 
growth that it is advisable, in order to well 
mature the wood, to thin out now. The other 
varieties, which are Teas and Noisettes, 
should be left now till March or April; then 
retain this season’s long rods to almost full 
length, if they escape injury from frest. The 
lateral shoots cut back as advised for Dorothy 
Perkins. Any old wood that can be well 
spared should be removed in March. It is 
essential to good blossoming to promote a« 
much as possible new wood each year. Of 
the standard and dwarf sorts you name, prune 
in spring, and then consult a good Rose cata¬ 
logue. Of kinds marked “vigorous,” retain 
this year’s wood from 6 inches to 12 inches 
long; those “medium” or robust, from 
2 inches to 4 inches; and those “moderate,” 
from 1 inch to 2 inches. We shall have some 
articles dealing with the pruning of Roses 
before such time arrives, and we would re¬ 
commend you to peruse such. 

Roses for new bed. I am mu king two new Rose- 
beds tins autumn, and I would like you to give me 
the names of a few Roses that would be suitable. 
Each bed is 14 feet by b feet, faring south-west, soil 
rather heavy on chalk. 1 thought of planting stand¬ 
ards in the centre of each bed and dwarfs round — 
Teas in oue, Lady Rob^jU^ Maman C'uo^it, Marie 

Digitized by CiOOglC 


Van Houtte, and Sunset, and Hybrid Teas in the 
other, such as Caroline Testout, Gloire Lyonnaise, 
La France, and Liberty. Could you give me a better 
selection than those for the standards'? The beds 
are on the lawn. I do not know if it would be too 
open for Teas and Hybrid Teas. I am also going to 
make another bed, triangular-shaped, 6 yards by 
C yards by 8 yards, facing the same way. Would it 
be best to have all dwarfs, Teas, and Hybrid Teas in 
this bed?— SMitAX. 

[Your arrangement of standards in the 
centre and dwarfs around them would be a 
very good one, and the sorts chosen very 
Buiiabie, with one exception in the Teas— 
namely, Sunset. For this we should substi¬ 
tute Mine. Charles, and George Laing Paul 
instead of Liberty among the Hybrid Teas. 
A few good Teas are : Am a Ollivier, Hon. 
Edith Gifford, Mme. Hoste, Dr. Grill, G. 
Nabonnand, Sulphurea, Mine. Antoine Mari, 
Mme. Chedane Guinoisseau. Mme. Jean 
Dupuy, and Peace; and of Hybrid Teas: 
Mme. Ravary. Mine. Leon Pain, Camoens, 
Viscountess Folkestone, Antoine Rivoire, 
Gustave Grunerwald, Konigin Carola, Mme. 
Edmee Metz, Mme. Jules Grolez, Joseph 
Hill, and Mme. Abel Chatenav. In the large 
bed you propose to plant, you would obtain 
a more profuse blossoming by planting all 
Teas and Hybrid Teas; but we think you 
should have some good rich crimsons, and 
yon can only obtain these among the Hybrid 
Perpetuals. We should recommend, there 
fore, some half standards of this group to be 
interspersed. If you can plant the dwarf 
Roses in threes or fives of a sort, we should 
say it would he preferable.] 

GARDEN PEST8 AND FRIENDS. 

BLACK ROT OF CABBAGES, TURNIPS, 
ETC. # 

(Pseudomonas campestris, E. Smith.) 
This disease is very prevalent in the United 
States, and, during recent years, has occurred 
in various European countries. It is of bac- 
teriuL origin, and causes the plant to rot and 
form a pulpy, foetid-smelling mass. Cauli¬ 
flowers, Cabbages, Brussels Sprouts, Radishes, 
White and Swede Turnips, in fact, all culti¬ 
vated plants belonging to the Crucifer family, 
are attacked. In this country Rape appears 
to be most susceptible to the disease. In an 
extensive trial plot of various kinds of Cab¬ 
bages, Savoys, Brussels Sprouts, etc., those 
that contained Rape “blood” were first 
attacked, whereas those strains without a 
taint of Rape were the last to succumb. 

Description and like history.—T he 
lower leaves’are usually infected first, the 
germs entering the substance of the leaf 
through minute openings (water stomata) 
situated along the margin, or through wounds 
caused bv the punctures of insects, etc. In 
cases where the soil is infected the germs 
may gain an entrance to the plant through 
broken roots at the time of transplanting. 
When the bacteria are once inside the leaf 
they multiply rapidly, and are confined to the 
veins, from whence they pass down the leaf¬ 
stalk into the stem. From the stem they 
quickly pass into the stalks of other leaves, 
so that within a short time every leaf is in¬ 
fected. As the bacteria travel along the 
veins and the vascular bundles of the leaf¬ 
stalks and stein a dark brown or blackish sub¬ 
stance is deposited, which causes the veins 
to show up as a black network ; the vascular 
bundles of the leaf-stalk and the stem also 
appear ns black points or a blackened ring 
when cut across. . The presence of this 
blackening of the veins is a certain indication 
of the presence of the disease. 

How THE disease is spread. —(a) As stated 
above, the germs may enter the plant through 
water stomata, wounds, broken roots, etc. 
(b) The soil may be infected by diseased 
plants which have been fed to cattle, pigs, 
etc., or which have been otherwise trans¬ 
ferred to the fields. (c) It has also been 
proved that the germs are conveyed from 
diseased to healthy plants by insects, (d) It 
has been considered by growers that the 
disease can be transmitted by means of the 
seed, and this idea has been proved to be 
correct by Harding, Steward, and Pruoiia, 
who' have shown that, in the United States, 
much of the Cabbage seed offered for sale is 
contaminated with the germs of black rot 
disease. 


Prevention and remedy.—(1) Transplant¬ 
ing should be carefully done, so that the roots 
are injured as little as possible. (2) Infected 
plants should neither be buried nor used as 
food for cattle or pigs, but should be promptly 
removed and burned, or infection of the land 
will follow sooner or later. (3) Rotation of 
crops is advisable, cereals, Potatoes, and 
legumes not being attacked. (4) The follow¬ 
ing precautionary measure may also be sug¬ 
gested. Seed can be disinfected before sow¬ 
ing by soaking it for fifteen minutes in a solu¬ 
tion consisting of one part of corrosive sub¬ 
limate in 1,000 parts of water, or in a solu¬ 
tion of 1 lb. of formalin in 30 gallons of 
water. It is hardly to be expected that this 
treatment will prevent either leaf or root in¬ 
fection in infected.soils, but it may be safely 
relied upon to prevent all danger from in¬ 
fected seed. It will not injure the germi¬ 
nating power of the seed.- Leaflet of Board of 
Agriculture and Fisheries. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Worm attacking window-plants— Will you 
kindly name enclosed specimens of worms, which fre¬ 
quent my window-grown plants? So far, I can see 
no damage they have done. The plants are grown in 
loam and leaf-mould. The loam was not stacked, hut 
taken from a deep trench in uncultivated ground.- 
c. M. 

[The little worms that you find in the earth 
in which your pot plants are grown were, 
probably, introduced in I he leaf-mould. At 
times they are, undoubtedly, the cause of 
much injury to the roots of plants. If placed 
in lime-water they die within a very few 
minutes, so that I imagine soaking the soil 
thoroughly with lime-water would destroy 
them. Chloride of lime mixed with soil in¬ 
fested by them is said to be very effectual for 
the same purpose, but I am sorry that I can¬ 
not give proportion in which it should bo 
used.- G. S. S.] 

Shot-hole fungus (Perplexed). The Nec¬ 
tarine leaves are attacked by one of the 
“shot-hole” fungi (Cercosporn circumcissa). 
a common .pest in orchard houses. Pick off 
and burn the affected leaves, and collect and 
burn all the leaves when they fall. It would 
also be well before the new buds open to re¬ 
move the surface soil to the depth of an inch, 
so as to lie sure that no spores are left any¬ 
where near the trees. As soon as the new 
leaves begin to expand, spray the trees with 
an animoniacal solution of carbonate of cop¬ 
per, made as follows : Take 1 oz. of carbon¬ 
ate of copper, and "make it into a thin paste 
with a little water, then add to it slowiv 
H pints of the strongest ammonia. When all 
the copper carbonate is dissolved a deep blue, 
clear liquid should be the result. This should 
be diluted with nine gallons of water, when 
it is ready for use. Spray three times or 
oftener, if necessary, at intervals of n week. 

Greenfly on Roses Em-loved you will find some 
Rose-leaves. Can you tell mo what the matter is? 
Doe^s the apparent black, sooty deposit come from tin* 
small insects on the inside of the. leaf ? I shall be 
glad if you will instruct me how to deal with this? 
It apparently does not affect all the Roses, but only 
ncre and there.—H. K. 8. 

[We have never seen Roses in such a filthy 
state due to the green-fly, which, when first 
noticed, you should have taken steps to de¬ 
stroy by syringing with paraffin emulsion or 
a mixture of soft soap and Quassia extract. 
Gather up all the leaves as they fall, and 
burn them, and next spring, when you see 
any signs of green-fly, treat as recommended 
above.] 

Gall on Willow —I send by parcel post a twig 
of some sort of Willow, with a peculiar parasite on 
the leaves. Could you tell me the name of the 
Willow and the name of the parasite; also how to 
destroy it?— Number Two. 

[The Willow (if a British species) is the 
Crack Willow (Salix fragilis). The galls on 
the leaves are caused by the grubs of one of 
the saw-flies. As regards destroying this in¬ 
sect, the only practical means that 1 can 
suggest is burning the infested shoots, or. 
during the winter, removing the surface soil 
under the tree to the depth or 3 inches, ami 
burning or burying it deeply.—G. S. S.] 

Mice in garden ( J- /'• D.). —(Jet some good-slued 
jam or marmalade jars, let them in level with ttit* 
ground. 1111 half-full with water, rub a ring of lard or 
dripping about 1$ inch from the top, so that they 
have to reach in to get it. You should also try traps 
or keep a cat in the garden. 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



October 19, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


447 


OUTDOOR PLANT8. 

PERGOLAS.—IX. 

Ax acquaintance who is much interested in 
pergolas, and has made a very handsome one, 
contended with me that all such structures 
ought to be on level ground. This, however, 
*s an error, as they are just as well suited for 
a diversified as any other surface. 

Here is an example of one, built on rising 
ground, and following the lie of the ground to 
get the easiest grade. It leads from the 
house to the stables, and was intended to con¬ 
ceal the view from the house of the pathway, 
which it does well, and has turned out a very 
much handsomer structure than was expected 
of it. The path is cut through a high bank, 
therefore, the supports are much shorter than 


THE DAHLIA. 

It is a curious fact that early in the last 
century, when-the Dahlia as a florist’s flower 
was being rapidly evolved from the rough and 
ready material the growers then had to deal 
with, the French were almost in the same 
position as they were later with the Japanese 
Chrysanthemum. In both cases the French 
were eminently seedling growers—the pro¬ 
ducers of novelties. In both cases, too, it 
was English growers who helped, by their 
skill in culture, to make the most of the 
novelties which created a still further de¬ 
mand for new and improved varieties. Sub¬ 
sequently in each case the English growers 
appear to have turned their attention towards 
producing their own novelties. Visits to re¬ 
cent Dahlia shows have convinced me that 
French Dahlia growers have much to learn 


cally unknown, and, popular as the Dahlia 
undoubtedly is in France, it will need some¬ 
thing like an object-lesson in English cul¬ 
tural methods before we can hope to see any 
improvement. We wonder sometimes whether 
there is any c#ance of a French National 
Dahlia Society being started, or, indeed, a 
Dahlia society of any sort, for France is not 
the country of special societies in floricul¬ 
ture. There can be no doubt that if such a 
thing could be carried into effect much pro¬ 
gress might be expected in the course of the 
next few years. 

The properties of florists’ flowers were once 
religiously regarded, and any deviation from 
the exalted standard set up by the “fancy” 
was severely deprecated. Nowadays we are 
getting slacker in this respect, the Carnation, 
the Chrysanthemum, and the Dahlia being 



Pergola on rising ground built above dry stone walla. 


usual, as they rise from dry walls, these walls 
having rock plants, and on the top of the 
banks on other side there are usually Violets. 
Winter and spring the sun gets at these 
things. Then come Vines, of which there is 
a good number of Japanese and French 
purple-leaved, with a few English kinds, such 
as Barbarossa. At all seasons it is interest¬ 
ing, and all seem to like it; but its crowning 
beauty is when the leaves take their fine 
autumn hues. This happened when the 
flower garden was faded, and the effect of 
colour was the finest I had ever seen, a 
variety of lovely reds and browns extending 
up the slope for about one hundred yardo. 

The pillars of this pergola are of stub Oak 
that grew in the woods, cross jynd side pieces 
of the same, and the smaller trellis work is of 
Chestnut. R 

Google 


from English ones in their methods of cul¬ 
ture. Apart from one or two*isolated coses 
. in the north of France, big bloom culture of 
the Chrysanthemum for exhibition was un¬ 
known to the French until the National 
! Chrysanthemum Society took over a very 
I handsome collection of specimen blooms to- 
the Paris International Exhibition of 1900. 
Since then it has made enormous strides, and 
at many of the provincial shows the progress 
is most marked. To-day Dahlia culture in 
France is precisely in the same condition as 
Chrysanthemum culture was ten years ago. 
If we visit any of the French autumn shows 
where the Dahlia is exhibited we are sure to 
be struck with two distinct features one is 
the ineffective way in which the blooms are 
. staged ; the other is the poor, half-developed 
specimens that are considered worthy of be- 
| ing exhibited. Form and finish are practi- 


three conspicuous examples where an appeal 
is made rather to please the eye of the public 
than to conform to the standard of the florist. 
Hence the Cactus Dahlia, like the Japanese 
[ Chrysanthemum, has come with its vivid 
colouring and weird, fantastic form to set all 
I our preconceived notions of properties at de¬ 
fiance. And the great public, who know n< - 
j thing, and, probably, care nothing, about the 
| philosophy of florists’ flowers, exclaim, :ts 
■ they gaze upon these brightly coloured, 

| ragged Jacks, “What lovely flowers!” I d » 
not know whether the instinct is innate rr 
acquired, for time will not permit of an 
analysis of my feelings for the moment; but 
this I do know : that after visiting the Dahl a 
show at the Crystal Palace, and also the one 
at Regent’s Park, I am more convinced than 
ever of the pleasing sensation 1 experience 
I when looking upon a niee collection of well- 















448 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


October 19, 190? 


grown Pompons, or a finely-staged collection 
of the old show and fancy Dahlias. It may 
he asked, What about the I* eeoiiy-flowered 
varieties? And my only reply would be, 
Heaven forbid that such wonderful mon¬ 
strosities should ever be honoured with the 
name of “flowers”! A bunch of coloured 
rags tied to the end of a Bamboo cane would 
be as worthy of the name. Size, of course, 
counts in a florist’s flower, hut that is only 
one of the properties it possesses, while in 
these Pteony-flowered Dahlias every property 
is wanting but size. 

The reader interested in Dahlias may ask 
whatever is the writer driving at ; and my 
main complaint is that out of all the certifi¬ 
cates granted there does not appear to havo 
been one awarded to any variety of the old 
show or fancy type. Cactus aud singles, with 
one exception (a Pompon), seem to monopo¬ 
lise the attention of the judges. Perhaps 
there are no others to adjudicate upon. 
Among the novelties honoured bv the special 
piece of cardboard cm which the magic letters 
F.C.C. appear, I noticed C. E. Wilkins 
(Cactus), which is of a very soft shade of 
salmon-rose, tinted bufT in the centre; 
Ivernia (Cactus), very large, colour bronzy- 
buff, tinted deep rose ; Kev. A. Bridge (Cac¬ 
tus), yellow centre, edges of florets tinted deep 
rose ; Mauve Queen (Cactus), a very soft 
shade of rosv-mauve, white in the centre; 
The Bride (dec. Cactus), a pure white self; 
Peggy (single), a neatly formed flower of its 
type, colour as near as possible rich reddish- 
terra-cotta. with a yellow centre, outside 
edged with deep jose ; Crimson Prince 
(single), rich velvety crimson, centre yellow; 
Flame (Cactus), a fiery, reddish-crimson; 
Mercury (Cactus), dull straw-yellow, streaked 
crimson; Hildegarde (Pompon), a pretty 
shade of lilac-mauve; and Brilliant (single), 
reddish-crimson, centre yellow. 

An Old Fashioned Amateur. 


CUTTING DOWN HERBACEOUS 
PLANTS. 

Among the many important operations con¬ 
nected with hardy herbaceous plants, the re¬ 
taining of the stems and leaves as long as 
possible holds a foremost place. Vet how 
often do we Jiieet with cultivators 
who treat their plants as if this were 
of no importance. In many gardens the 
cultivation of this class of plants is 
not adopted to the extent their merits de¬ 
serve, and if you ask the reason, not unfre- 
quently the answer is. They get too untidy- 
looking when tin* blooming period is over. 
Tidiness in a garden adds iiiueli to its appear¬ 
ance, although 1 often think it is very often 
carried too far. to the detriment of many 
things. This most forcibly applies to the 
early destruction of the stems and leaves of 
many bulbs and herbaceous plants. The.sea¬ 
son of the year being with us when the bloom¬ 
ing period is practically over, it may Ik*'. use¬ 
ful to point out some of the evils attending 
the untimely destruction of the stems, of these 
plan ts. 

Having had to cultivate.herbaceous plants 
somewhat extensively during the last thirty 
years, and in several different gardens and 
localities, I have had an opportunity of ob¬ 
serving the benefits attending allowing the 
steins and leaves to remain till thev ripened 
off naturally. According to mv observation, 
satisfactory results cannot be obtained by anv 
other means for any length of time with such 
plants hs Delphiniums, Pyr.'thrums, perennial 
Asters, amt Sunflowers; also Buckets, 
.Phloxes, and many bulbs. Some years ago 
I cut down some double Rockets after they 
had gone out of bloom. Although the plants 
were most vigorous at the time, it well-nigh 
killed them. A feu planto that were in a re¬ 
serve garden close by. and the foliage of 
which was allowed to' die off naturally, did 
not suffer, and from these the stock for the 
following season was obtained. For several 
years I cut down the stems of Pyrethrums 
ami many other things of this nature early, 
with the result that many of the plants got 
weaker every year. 'Die evil was most appa¬ 
rent in those plant* that had but few leaves 
below the stems. If you want good, strong 
plants of any of these subjects that form 
crowns or sueke 

Digitiz 


rs/'TRfcngivc thcil the ve 

Gd gle 


best attention so long as they have a good 
leaf on them. 

Last autumn I had one oort of early-bloom¬ 
ing border Chrysanthemum, which had not 
made a sucker at the time it had done flower¬ 
ing. For experiment, I eut two or three off 
close to the ground, allowing the others to 
remain ; these latter remained green a long 
time, and soon gave abundance of cuttings, 
while those cut down early produced one or 
two poor, weak ones. 

All observing cultivators must know that 
when the blooming period is over, only about 
half the period of the growth of many plants 
is finished. Who would think of cutting 
down Asparagus growth when just in bloom? 
—and I fail to see any difference between the 
habit of this and that of many herbaceous 
plants. Many a fine stock of Lobelia car¬ 
dinally lias been much weakened by taking 
the plants up too early, cutting off the tops, 
ami placing them under glass frames. When 
looking over my stock of thi« kind recently. 
I observed many of the plants had only just 
begun to make freeh growth at the bottom, 
although the plants will soon be out of 
bloom. The best way to treat Lobelia car 
dinalis is to let the plants remain as long a« 
safe where they are growing. 


NOTES AND EE PLIES. 

Growing Lilies —Can you kindly give ine the | 
names of any Liliums, white and white spotted with 
colour, that are perfectly hardy and bloom in the 
open? Please mention height and time of blooming, 
and when bulbs must be planted. — Lll.Y. 

[The Madonna Lily (Liliuni eandidum), 
Lilium speciosum in its many forms, both 
pure white and spotted. Lilium Martagon 
album. Lilium giganteum. etc. AIL the 
speeiosum forms require shelter, and a rich, 
loamy soil, mixed with peat and leaf-soil. 
They flower usually in September, but at the 
present time (October 8th) we have many of 
the varieties in full bloom. The height de¬ 
pends on the cultivation and the strength of 
the bulb. You should plant as soon as you 
can get the bulbs. When the bulbs first come 
to hand, they should be carefully examined, 
and all decaying matter removed. They 
should then be laid in Cocoa-fibre, mode¬ 
rately moist, until the bulbs recover their 
plumpness, and the roots show signs of start¬ 
ing from the base. Then they should be 
planted out, being careful before doing so to 
remove any signs of deoav that may be found. 
The above remarks apply more particularly 
to newly-imported bulbs, sales of which are 
held regularly in London at the present time. 
Any of our bulb merchants could supplv 
voii. You should get a copv of “The English 
Flower Garden.” which fully describes all 
the varieties of Lilium and their treatment in 
the open air.] 

What is a herbaceous plant? I .‘‘Mali tie 
obliged by your letting me know wb.it is understood 
as the line that marks off herbaceous plants for show 
purposes? Do Lilium nuratum and L. eandidum, or 
Arums, come within the mark?—P atsky. 

[You ask wlmt “marks off herbaceous plants 
for show purposes?” but any answer to this 
could only be given from a general view of 
the case, as so much depends upon the word¬ 
ing of the schedule, and such wording must 
be your chief guide. A class for herbaceous 
plants may or may not include plants of a 
bulbous or tuberous-rooted character ; but if 
bulbous plants are not excluded by the direct 
conditions of the class, then you would he 
quite within your rights in staging Lilies. 
Irises. Alstrcomerius, and the like. But 
whether you may include the Arum is an¬ 
other matter, and would further depend unon 
the exact rendering of the conditions. For 
example, we will assume that the schedule 
contains a class for “Twenty-four hunches of 
hardy herbaceous cut flowers, distinct, bul¬ 
bous! and tuberous-rooted plants included.” 
'Phe chief governing conditions here set up 
are (i) the number required; (2) “hardy”; 
(3) “ herbaceous ” ; and (4) “distinct”: and 
the violating of any one of these conditions 
would disqualify the exhibit. In such a class 
you could exhibit the hardy Arum (A. albo- 
inaeulatuml or any other known “hardy” 
‘.p*cies; but you could not with impunity 
exhibit Arum (Richardia) africanum in the 
r-ame class. Frequently one secs at local 
and village shows such thines as Sweet Peas, 
Marigolds, Canterbury Bells, and the like 


staged in the class for hardy herbaceous 
things, and while these are, technically, all 
wrong, and would disqualify the exhibitor of 
them in a more important exhibition, long 
usage and ignorance of the true meaning of 
the term “herbaceous” had made the thing 
possible in the circumstances. The term 
“herbaceous” is applicable to all plants that 
produce “an annual flowering stem from a 
perennial root,” and that plant may be per¬ 
fectly hardy, exotic or tender, bulbous or 
tuberous-rooted, so long as the chief functions 
exist -that is to say, a Lilium, Alstra*- 
meria, Iris (Spanish), Phlox, Paeonia, or 
Lathyrus (perennial Pea), are all herbaceous, 
because they produce a flowering stem each 
year from a root system of a strictly perennial 
character. From this it might lie gathered 
that all of the above-named would be admis¬ 
sible in a class for “herbaceous plants,” and 
this view would be correct, though we are 
bound to add that such wording would be ex¬ 
ceedingly loose and vague of meaning. Many 
years ago the Royal Botanic Society of Lon¬ 
don arranged in their exhibition schedule a 
class for an equal number of “hardy her¬ 
baceous plants” and “stove herbaceous 
plants,” the first word in each case constitu¬ 
ting the chief governing condition, the second 
word being employed in its widest possible 
sense. These two classes were distinctly 
good and instructive, and allowed the exhibi¬ 
tor in each case to stage choice bulbous 
plants not often seen. Thus you will see that 
the requirements of the schedule must be 
your chief study, aud if the wording of the 
class is at all vague you should appeal to the 
society's secretary for a complete explanation 
of the same.] 

Making a gravel tennis court.— A “Gar¬ 
dener” (October 5th. page 428) invites infor¬ 
mation as to the making of a sand or gravel 
tennis court. Adjoining our public gardens 
at Kingston-on Thames, and on an area for¬ 
merly meadow, but later raised several feet 
j by depositing on it a dense body of town 
I sweepings and refuse, is a gravel court of 
about 100 feet by 50 feet. It is enclosed by a 
high wire fence. The soil which covered the 
solid body of refuse was thrown out over the 
space now forming the court 7 inches deep. 
Into that space were placed coarse clinkers 
and rubble. 4 inches thick, and well solidi¬ 
fied. On that was placed a depth of '2 inches 
of ashes from furnaces, and still further on 
that an inch and a half thickness of fine 
gravel. That was composed of equal parts 
sticky Farnliam gravel and one-half of mor; 
eandv Coombe gravel. That was rolled with 
a heavy roller for several days in succession, 
especially when wet. until it became as now 
— us solid and firm as concrete. The admix¬ 
ture of sandy gravel with the adhesive Faru- 
ham gravel prevents that licking up when 
wet which characterise* the first-named 
•gravel alone. It is not possible to use on 
such a court the ordinary marking machine, 
as on Grass, as the sandy particles on the 
surface lick up on to the marking wheel and 
coat, it over. A brush with the lime-white 
has to Ik* used. Still, that is a small matter. 
A court of this description dries quickly, and 
may be played upon at any time, when it 
does not rain, or soon after rain has fallen. 
It is less hard and is much more responsive 
to the feet than is an asphalte court. D. 

A pretty early Starwort (Aster vimineus per- 
feet us).—The variety under notice has a flue habit of 
growth, and blooms very freely. Although described 
l>v the specialists as belonging to the vimineus type 
of the Starworts, I fail to see in this variety any 
likeness to most other varieties of the same type. 
As a matter of fact, both in the character of its 
growth and blossoms, the plant has a great re¬ 
semblance to several members of the eordifolius type. 
The growth of Aster vimineus perfeetus is graceful, 
and just now the freely-flowered sprays are bearing 
daintv little whitish-lilac blossoms of a pleasing 
kind. The growths are somewhat slender, and when 
eut make a verv pretty display. The height of the 
plant is about S feet. —CJ. R. H. 

Lathyrus latifolius flowering late I have 
never known this hue old Everlasting l’ea to be so 
late in coming into flower. Mine is the white- 
flowered sort, from which 1 have in the past invari¬ 
ably gathered blossoms quite freely from the middle 
of July onwards. So far this season very few spikes 
of blossoms have developed, and, I fear, unless we 
experience a spell or really warm weather, the flowers 
will be verv scarce. The plants, which now form im¬ 
mense clumps, are fully :• feet or more through, and 
quite 9 feet liigh. The plants were raised from seed 
several years ago. the seedlings being transplanted 
just- as thev were in pbfs To their present flowering 

JlWEl&frf OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



October 19, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


419 




ADEN Ol'IlORA POT AN IN'I. 

This is a distinct plant, not long introduced, 
ami belongs to a rather numerous group of 
Campanulaceae, in which the Caucasus and 
Siberia appear to be very rich. It has a 


equally well here. - That, no doubt, is the 
case, but, of course, only possible when seed 
is sown under glass and plants are put out 
after all danger from frost is over. But even 
were the cultivation of Tobacco sanctioned 
in this country for manufacturing purposes 
by the Inland Revenue office, 
tb :r°, are few smokers who 
would care to use it. Whatever 
may be the capacities of the cli¬ 
mate to grow Tobacco, it will 
not create a quality which will 
pay to manufacture into asmok- 1 
ing mixture. Even for ordinary 
fumigation heme - grown To¬ 
bacco, when dried, is compara¬ 
tively worthless. But we have 
iu Nicotian a affinis, N. sylves- 
tris, and N. Sanders* really 
beautiful Tobaccos, because 
their flowers add so much charm 
to gardens. The old N. affinis 
seems, after all, to be the meat 
favoured, its pure white flowers, 
rich perfume, and medium habit 
rendering it more suitable for 
garden decoration than are 
stronger growers. The variety 
Sanderre, which gave such rich 
colour when first introduced, 
was soon demoralised by so 
many pallid, even dirty, shades. 
Had an effort been made to 
rigidly retain the rich crimson 
hue, then would it have been 
far more widely grown. 

D. 


Adenophora Potanini. From a photograph in Mr. T. Smith's 
nursery at Newry. 


somewhat fleshy root; its flower steins are 
l! feet to 3 feet high, often branching, and 
sometimes the lower part remains. The 
flowers nre about $ inch across, and of a 
clear pale blue. It is not fastidious as to 
soil provided the drainage is ample, a neces¬ 
sary point in regard to these plants. 

Xcirr-t/. T. Smith. 

TOBACCOS. 

Last spring I received from a source in¬ 
terested in promoting a Tobacco exhibition 
in London, seeds of three varieties of To 
baeco grown in hot climates for smoking 
Tobacco production. Having no means of 
growing the plants, I passed the packets 
on to a Surrey gardener, who raised 
plants and grew some of each variety. I saw 
them in the summer. They differed some 
what in habit, but otherwise not appreciably 
diverse from those grown for garden decora¬ 
tion, or from the old Nicotiana virginiea, 
carrying red flowers, which used to be grown 
in gardens prior to the introduction of affinis 
and others. The object of the senders of 
these Tcibacco seeds evidently was to show 
that varieties such as art* g rown elsewhere to 
produce smoking Toba/coHeaf can lgj^vvn 

Digitize by VjOO 


Sowing lawn Crass seed.— 

At this peiiod of the year we 
find owners of gardens, both 
large and small, inquiring where 
good turf can be procured ; but 
this is a difficult question to 
answer in the majority of cases, 
for in the neighbourhood of 
large towns the 
only turf that 
is available is 
that from mea¬ 
dow-land that 
has come into 
possession of 
the builder, 
and who is na¬ 
turally anxious 
to make the 
best price he 
can of the turf 
before starting 
to dig out the 
foundations. In 
nearly all cases 
this turf is full 
of all sorts of 
broad - leaved 
weeds, such as 
Plantain, Dai¬ 
sies, Dande¬ 
lion eto. I feel certain that 
anyone can get a much 
cleaner lawn by sowing the 
best lawn Grass mixture. 

Before sowing, the soil must 
be thoroughly well prepared 
bv digging or forking it over 
several times during the pre¬ 
ceding summer months, so 
that all weed seeds that are 
near the surface may have 
germinated and been de¬ 
stroyed. Then, directly the 
autumnal showers begin to 
fall, sow the seed fairly 
thick, making sure that it is 
buried out of sight, so that 
birds do not easily get at it. 
tn a very short time you will 
be rewarded with a greener 
surface than is to be seen on 
old turf—in fact, those who 
have not tried it can form no 
idea of the rapidity with which really good 
new seed will come up and form a green ver¬ 
dant sward. Of course, where expense is no 
object and good turf can be procured, nothing 
can In* better; but many form so exaggerated 
an idea as to the length of time it takes to 


get a good lawn from seed that I would advise 
anyone interested to give seed a fair trial.— 
James Groom, Gosport. 

Pceonies failing.— The Pieonies here have become 
diseased, owiug, I am told, to the ravages of the 
grubs of cockchafers. Can you suggest any remedy* 
I have been advised to use quicklime, and, on the 
other hand, have been informed that quicklime is in¬ 
jurious to Peonies. Has any reader had any experi¬ 
ence in this matter?—W. H. Mason. 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 

THE PEPPER BUSH (CLETHRA ALNI- 
FOLIA). 

The Clethras belong to the Heaths, and are 
handsome flowering shrubs. The subject of 
this note was the brut species known in Eng¬ 
land, having been introduced as far back as 
173L Notwithstanding its attractiveness and 
the length of time that has elapsed since its 
introduction, it is not a common shrub in 
gardens—in fact, it is quite unusual to meet 
with it. In the hunt after novelties, inanv 
of our older plants, though very desirable, 
are neglected, much to our loss. Certainly, 
this Clethra is well worthy of a place iu 
every collection of flowering shrubs. It is a 
native of the wet copses of Virginia, where it 
grows to a height of 10 feet. It makes a 
clcee, rounded bush, the shoots being fur¬ 
nished with dark-green, toothed, ovate leaves. 
The flowers, which are white, are very nume¬ 
rous, and crowded on erect, terminal racemes, 
which stand well up from the rich green 
foliage, and are distributed so profusely over 
the entire plants that it is almost smothered 
in bloom. The flowers are deliciously 
scented, and perfume the air for a long dis¬ 
tance. One of the greatest merits of this 
shrub is that it does not bloom until almost 
all the flowering shrubs have passed their 
blossoming period, for it flowers in the month 
of August. It is a valuable subject for the 
front of a shrubbery, the bushes having a most 
graceful effect when covered with feathery 


The Sweet Pepper Bush (Clethra alnifolia). From a photograph by 
Miss S. H. Wallace, Ardnamona, Lough Cske, Co. Donegal. 


spires of white blcssom. It succeeds best in 
a moist, peaty soil, but will grow in any 
staple that is fairly light. In heavy, holding 
soil it exists with difficulty, what little 
growth is made in the sunimer'being generally 


URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 














450 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


October 19, J907 


get beyond the bud stage, dying before ex¬ 
panding. One recommendation of this 
Clethra is that it will flower well in the 
shade. It blooms abundantly, and grows 
well in a thick plantation, where the rays of 
the sun are much impeded by trees. In 
rather open, but shaded, spots in woods, 
great bushes, G feet in height, and as much 
through, with every twig terminated by a 
spike of 9cented flowers, make a pretty pic¬ 
ture, and perfume the air for yards around. 
In such a situation they will last in bloom a 
long time. It is readily increased from 
suckers, which arc thickly produced around 
the stems of plants growing in light soil. 
These start away vigorously, and 60011 become 
bushy specimens, 3 feet to 4 feet in height. 

It is a useful plant for forcing in pots, bloom¬ 
ing, when so treated, three months earlier 
than when grown in the open. The variety 
tomentosa, which has the undersides of the 
leaves covered with whitish down, blooms a 
full month later than the type, and is, there¬ 
fore, a valuable companion. In America the 
Clethra is known as the White Alder or 
Pepper-bush. S. W. Fitzhkrbert. 

VEGETABLES. 

DEEP CULTIVATION. 

To renew a worn-out, garden soil demands a 
deal of forethought and knowledge on the 
part of the individual in charge. Even in 
these days of high-class gardening it is no un¬ 
common thing to meet with gardens the soil 
of which is completely exhausted through 
being long cropped wit!) the same things and 
manured with the same material for years. 
The soil in 6iich eases get3 sour, anti in time 
becomes more a hotbed of weeds ami vermin 
than one in which clean, wholesome vege¬ 
tables can be grown. Such cases more fre 
quently occur on thin soils than on deep land 
of a clayey nature. 

To deal effectively with such cases a« arc 
indicated, no half measures must be adopted. 
Now is the time to have all unoccupied 
ground turned up to get the winter’s frost and 
air, to sweeten and pulverise it preparatory 
to spring seeding. To improve a poor soil, 
thorougldy, something more than the ordinary 
orthodox system of trenching is necessary; 
every trench ought to be 2 feet wide, and 
turned clean over to the depth of 2 feet, if 
there be surface soil to do that with, being 
careful to put the eurface, with all its weeds 
and vermin, into the bottom on the top of the 
oubsoil, which should be broken up at least 
a foot deep, and any big stones that may be 
in it taken out. The more vegetable matter 
that can be turned into the bottom of the 
trenches the better, and the surface should 
huve a good dressing of lime. If such a 
course were, year after year, followed until 
the whole garden was gone over, a poor, 
worn-out soil would soon be productive of 
good results, and in all likelihood it would 
take four or more years before the whole 
could be gone over, according to the size of 
the garden. One particular point in trench¬ 
ing should always be borne in mind—viz., the 
more vegetable refuse that can be put into the 
bottom of the trenches the better, as it acts 
beneficially in many ways, supplying food for 
the roots in a dry season, and also keeping 
them from going into the cold subsoil. It 
was my lot many years ago to take charge of 
a garden, the deep cultivation of which had 
been eo neglected that it would scarcely grow 
anything satisfactorily. It was impossible to 
expect much from the mode of cultivation 
that had been adopted—that of digging into 
the surface rank manure, that kept the free, 
light soil so open, that whenever the dry 
weather set in in June, there was an end to 
the appearance of good crops. Deep cultiva¬ 
tion was adopted in the manner stated, and 
‘the result was that vegetables were both abun¬ 
dant and wholesome. H. 


NOTES AND HE PLIES. 

Manuring a garden My garden soil is very 
licht and sandy. What rhenueal manures will be suit- 
iihle fOr it (no vegetables grown, but Roses, other 
flower*, and Apple trees)'/ I eannot obtain either 
eow or pig-manure, and the stable-manure hardly 
seems rich enough, aud in full of insects. I shall be 
much obliged if you will tell me what to use in the 
way of chemical munoperand the quantity to apply 

Digitized by CjQOglC 


per square yard? Is it advisable to apply the manure 
in the early spring rather than in the autumn, as 
the soil is so very sundy ; ami should it be laid on the 
surface or dug in?—C. V. 

[If the various plots comprising the garden 
have not hitherto been double dug, we ad¬ 
vise that it be done at your earliest conveni¬ 
ence, when an opportunity will be afforded 
for giving the soil a good dressing of basic 
slag, to form the foundation or base, and co¬ 
operate, as it were, with the other chemicals 
which should be applied hereafter. The basic 
slag should be as intimately mixed as possible 
witn both the top and bottom spits, and you 
may, if the soil is in poor condition, use it at 
the rate of 4 lb. per square yard to both 
layers of soil, and if the bottom spit should 
be inferior in quality to the top, loosen it lip 
and leave it there. The plot of ground occu¬ 
pied by Apples would, of course, be exempted 
from this course of treatment, and the Hose 
quarter also, if this was prepared purposely 
for them. If not, lift the Roses and treat the 
soil in a similar manner. If treated and 
manured with basic slag as advised, this 
would prove an excellent soil, preparation for 
herbaceous plants and annuals, as welL as 
for Roses, only in this latter case, it would 
pay you to add something in the nature of 
marl, road-sidings, turf-parings, or any¬ 
thing of that description to make it more 
holding and rententive of moisture. If the 
soil does not stand in need of being double 
dug, then apply the slag to the top spit only 
at the rate of 8 oz. per square yard, as early 
as you can, and dig it in. Then, in either 
case, or as soon as the digging is completed, 
apply kainit to the surface, 3 oz. per square 
yard, and lightly fork it in. The basic slag 
and kainit may be mixed together and strewn 
on the surface of the soil in the above-named 
quantities to as far as the branches extend 
under the Apple-trees at once, and either 
rake or fork these chemicals in. Nothing 
further need then be done until February, 
when the plots intended for flower cultiva¬ 
tion and the Rose quarters should receive a 
dressing of sulphate of ammonia and bone- 
meal, using 1 oz. of the former and 2 oz. of 
the latter per square yard. Superphosphate 
may be substituted for bone-meal, if the 
latter cannot be obtained of good quality. 
For the Apple quarter you can take 1 lb. 
nitrate of soda, 2 lb. dried blood, and 4 lb. of 
bone-meal or superphosphate ; mix all inti 
mately together, and apply at the rate of 
2 oz. per square yard early in February. For 
subsequent dressings give just half of this 
quantity, a good time being after the fruit is 
set, and again when about half-grown. An¬ 
other good fruit manure may be made of 1.J lb. 
muriate of potash, LJ- lb. of superphosphate, 
and 2 lb. of bone-meal. This should he applied 
in the same proportion and at the same 
periods as the last-mentioned mixture. If 
the soil is very poor, the nitrate of soda, 
superphosphate, aud bone-meal mixture may 
be used for the flower-plots, but as the dried 
blood has a tendency to promote much leaf 
growth, one dressing—and that in February 
—would Hiiffiee, falling back on sulphate of 
ammonia and superphosphate should further 
stimulants be needed, using just lialf the 
above-mentioned quantities for the same area 
of ground. If you purchase chemicals of 
good quality and apply them ns advised, you 
will be enabled to manure your garden 
cheaply and, at the same time, effectively.] 

Hoeiflg:.—What a grand September for 
clearing the ground of weeds! Between 
many of the crops the weeds had got so large 
that I was compelled to rake them up. We 
shall still keep the flat hoe moving, as some 
seedlings are cure to appear, and it is well 
to keep the ground w T ell stirred among late 
summer-sown crops, ns Turnips. Carrots, 
and Spinach. Hoeing is a tedious job during 
ehowerv weather, as weeds so quickly take 
root again, and to do much with the rake, 
far more soil is collected than weeds when it 
is so pasty.—J. M. B. 

Vegetable Marrow preserve IT " Improver." 
who sent a recipe for making Vegetable Marrow 
preserve a short time ago to Gardening, would kindly 
say how much salt to put in the water in which the 
Marrow is to remain for one night I should lie very 
grateful: and if any reader happens to know the 
recipe for making a kind of sweetmeat called pata 
mithdee, which made from a kind of Marrow crys¬ 
tallised, it would he very thankfully received? it is 
made in India, and would be a very wholesome sweet 
for children.—M arrow. 


GARDEN WORK. 

Conservatory. — Still further reduce 
climbers, as we want all the light possible 
now r . Ventilate freely in mild, calm weather. 
Fire-heat will not be required till the night 
temperature falls below 50 degs. Do the 
watering early in the day. Very few plants 
will require water every day, but each plant 
should be examined, and there is no better 
test than to tap the side of the pot and 
notice the sound. As far as possible, do the 
watering on fine mornings, when the lights 
can be opened to let out the damp, ana if 
we have dull weather, do not throw water 
about the house, as damp sqon destroys 
flowers. If there art 1 many Chrysanthemums 
in the house, leave a little air on all night, 
unless there is frost in the air. Weak 
liquid manure may be given to all plants 
which have filled their pots with roots. If 
there are any insects in the house, vaporise 
on a calm evening, after shutting up the 
house close; but, as nicotino is poisonous, no 
one should enter the house for some hours 
afterwards, and if the conservatory is at 
taclied to the house, all communication there¬ 
with should be effectually stopped. Wc have 
generally found that if all plants are vapor¬ 
ised before taking them to the conservatory, 
there is not much difficulty with them, as 
Roses or other permanent plants can be 
syringed with a solution of Quassia. Scarlet 
Salvias will add brightness now, and a few 
good specimens of Vallota will be useful, as 
such colours arc not found in Chrysanthe¬ 
mums. Arum Lilies should now be under 
cover, and, if the pots are full of roots, may 
be helped with liquid-manure. Roses in pots 
which have ripened their growth may now be 
pruned, and be left outside for the present. 
Fuchsias and Begonias which have done 
flowering may stand outside for a time to 
ripen growth. Hydrangeas will do outside 
for a time, as the growth must be well 
ripened to flower freely; but, as the pots are 
full of roots, water must be given as required. 
Lilacs and other shrubs prepared for forcing 
should remain plunged outside for the pre¬ 
sent. Freesias that were potted early arc 
now in full growth, and may be placed in a 
light position in a cool greenhouse. Pot up 
white and other Pinks for forcing. Only 
young plants, specially grown for the work, 
are suitable. 

The forcing-house.— There is nothing 
urgent in this house yet. and it is now prob¬ 
ably filled with young, winter-flowering, 
stove, soft-wooded plants. The great thing 
just now is to be in possession of a good 
supply of well-ripened plants suitable for 
forcing. Among the useful things are 
Spiraeas. These will soon be potted up, but 
they will not force until the roots are active. 
The usual course is to place them at first in 
a cool house, and when some progress ban 
been made, push them on. A good deal is 
done with these now in the retarding cham¬ 
ber, and when taken out at any time, they 
will soon break into growth. The same 
course is taken with deciduous Azaleas of the 
Japanese and ponticnm sections. With us 
English-grown plants have flowered much 
better than the imported plants, which, 
through lack of preparation, often drop their 
buds. Where white flowers are much in 
request, Tree-Carnations. Bouvardias, and 
white Azaleas that were forced last year will 
soon be in bloom. We have Azaleas Fielder’s 
White and Deutsche Perle now in flower; 
double white Pelargoniums are also flowering 
freely; but such things want a little warmth 
now.* Camellias which made their growth 
early, and have been ripened outside, are 
also* bursting into bloom. These, of course, 
cannot lie forced, but the work was done in 
the spring. 

Early Peaches.— Tho6e trees which have 
been forced in previous years are now.ready 
for pruning. 1 need hardly say there must 
be no overcrowding of the young wood. The 
trees should be taken from the trellis, aud 
after the pruning i« done, be washed with a 
solution of Giflhurst compound, and re¬ 
trained. beginning at the bottom, and so ar¬ 
ranging the branches that the trellis is. com 
pletelv covered. Everybody knows that in 
pruning Peaches, every*shoot that it is neces¬ 
sary to shorten should be cut to a Ayood-bqd 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



October 19, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


451 


to ensure a leader for next season's growth, 
&ti, without a leader, the fruits will not swell. 
Peaches (this also includes Nectarines) often 
produce buds in triplets, the woorl-hud occu¬ 
pying a central position, and it is always safe 
to leave these * as terminals after the 
branches are trained, and the ties must leave 
room for growth. Examine the borders, and 
moisten the dry spots, if any, with licjuid- 
manure. Remove all dry, exhausted soil from 
the surface of inside borders, and replace 
with good loam, mixed with a little old plas¬ 
ter and bone-meal. Basic slag is also useful, 
3 ozs. or 4 ozs. to the square yard. Every 
bit of wall surface should be washed over 
with a mixture of lime and sulphur after all 
the necessary preparatory work is done. 
IiCave the house open night and day till the 
time comes for starting the trees. 

Late Grapes. —The bunches should be 
looked over daily, and all the decaying ber¬ 
ries-cut out. There is always some waste, 
especially in damp weather, and too much 
fire-heat will cause premature shrivelling. 
Do not leave any dead leaves lying about, as 
they attract moisture, and, above all things, 
do not make any dust, a« even walking on a 
border, if the latter is dry, and not, as it 
should be, covered with litter, will cause 
dust to ascend and settle on the berries. 
Leave a little air on all night, unless it rains. 
Keep fires down, as Grapes keep best in a 
temperature of 45 degs. to 50 degs. There 
should be no plants in the house to require 
watering. If the house must be filled with 
plants, cut the Grapes as eoon as ripe, and 
bottle them in the Grape-room. They will 
keep better under such conditions. 

Outdoor garden.— The usual routine work 
is taking up a good deal of time now. There 
are beds to clear, and bulbs, Pansies, Violas, 
Wallflowers, and other things to plant. Most 
of these things do best in rather firm soil, so, 
after digging beds over, if the soil is dry 
enough, tread the surface before planting. 
The autumn is the time for making altera 
lions, forming new beds for Roses or new bor¬ 
ders for herbaceous plants, to permit of seve¬ 
ral methods of grouping to harmonise or for 
contrast. There may be borders in whic* 
white cur blue colours predominate. If we 
have the same flowers, we do not want them 
always arranged in the same wav, and do not 
mis delicate things with those which are 
very robust, as the strong-growing things will 
smother the weaklings. We jec this very 
often in the rock-garden, when the things 
have been planted hastily, without considera¬ 
tion. Continue the removal of evergreen 
trees and shrubs. Everything works cleanly 
now, and. a« the bright sun has warmed the 
earth, roots will soon get established. Water 
everything which is moved now as soon as 
planted. 

Fruit garden. Three weeks of bright, 
sunny weather have had a beneficial effect 
upon the. fruit, especially the late Apples 
and Pears. No time should he lost now in 
placing the grease-bands round the trees. 
They mnv not capture all the insects, but 
many will be destroyed, and when the leaves 
arc down and the pruning done, use the 
alkali wash, or dress the trees with some 
other insecticide. Even lime thrown over the 
trees, when damp, with a shoveL will be bene¬ 
ficial. Some of the Apple-trees have a rusty 
appearance, and the leaver have fallen pre¬ 
maturely. Ribston and Quarrenden seem 
affected* in this way. Root-pruning may be 
done now, any old trees grubbed, and others 
that are not profitable may be made so by re¬ 
grafting. Everybody with a fruit garden or 
orchard should take stock of the trees now, 
and make arrangements for carrying out im¬ 
provements. The trees which have done the 
best this season are those which have been 
from ten years to twenty years planted. 
Older trees afe, in many instances, in a, bad 
way. All young trees are making too much 
wood, and want a check at the roots. Many 
old trees have borne heavy crops, but the 
fruits are small and valueless. Probably a 
heavy top-dressing of manure would help 
them during the autumn, or any spare liquid 
manure will be useful. 

Vegetable garden. —Look closely after 
Cauliflowers turning in. If the hearts are 
frozen, they will be useles^ A leaf orjtwo 
broken over the hearts pill suffice for lh» 


present, but before severe frost comes the 
forward plants should be lifted, with balls 
of soil, and planted close together in a deep 
pit or in a trench, where protection can be 
given if required. It will soon be time to 
think about lifting and storing the root- 
crops, such os Carrots and Beet. Parsnips 
keep best in the ground. The best place to 
keep Onions is a well ventilated shed with a 
north aspect, where the air can circulate 
among them always. In lifting Beet, be care¬ 
ful not to injure the roots, or in cooking, the 
sap will exude, and the gardener will find 
himself in hot water with the cook. Those 
who have had much trouble with insect pests 
in the soil will find plenty of remedies which 
arc now prepared by the horticultural che¬ 
mist, and many of them possess some mano¬ 
rial value, especially in notaeh, as well as 
being insect destroyers. Tney are in the form 
of powder, and can be obtained either in six¬ 
penny tins or in bulk. I have had several 
samples from as many different makers, and 
I think there is a future before them. For 
obvious reasons, I cannot give a free adver¬ 
tisement to any maker. So far as my expe¬ 
rience goes, all I have used are useful. Those 
who are troubled with worms on the tennis- 
lawn will find these preparations useful. 

E. Hobday. ' 

THE COMING WEEK'S WORK. 

Extracts from a Garden Diary. 

October 21st .—Carrots and Beet are being 
lifted and stored in dry sand. Care is taken 
not to bruise Beetroots; the foliage i« twisted 
off, not cut. off with a knife. We find beds of 
Lettuce and Endive, if tied up when dry, and 
the spaces between the plants filled with 
dry leaves, and afterwards thatched with 
straw, will keep in good condition for a long 
time. Of course, other supplier are in 
frames. 

October 22nd .—The usual routine work of 
clearing flower-beds, and filling up with bulbs, 
Pansies, Wallflowers, and other spring 
flowering plants is being pushed on, whilst the 
weather is ouitable. There is always work to 
be done among the Roses. A lot is propa¬ 
gated at home, and a few new varieties are 
bought in, and provision in the way of new 
positions has to be found for them ; and these 
matters are being thought out and arranged 
now. I like a deep root-run for Roses. 

October 23rd .—As soon as the houses are 
filled up and arranged for the autumn, we 
shall go through all plant-houses with the 
vaporiser, as, bv and bye, when more fire-heat 
is used, insects will breed at a rapid rate, 
and much harm will be done, which a small 
expense now in nicotine, may obviate. Made 
up another Mushroom-bed in house. Outside 
beds are benring freely, and have been mois¬ 
tened with liquid-manure. 

October 24th .—Shifting Cinerarias into 
6 -inch pots, also Grevilleas and Aralias into 
5-inch, and transplanting seedling Ferns from 
store-pots into boxes. Looked over vineries 
to remove decayed berries. A little fire-heat 
is used now in late vineries, but no plants in 
pots will be placed there till the Grapes are 
cut. Remainder of Grapes in early house 
lias been cut, with 6 inches of wood, and 
placed in bottles of water, and stood on 
Grape-rack in cool room. 

October 25th .—Took up Cauliflowers with 
balls ; removed a few of the bottom leaves, 
and planted in turf pit. One bed of Broccoli 
has been laid down, with heads to the north 
to check growth. Made a new plantation of 
Raspberries and Loganberries. We are ex¬ 
tending plantations of the latter. Gathering 
Apples and Pears, and storing in fruit-room. 
Windows are left open night and day for a 
time, to allow moisture given off by fruit to 
escape. 

October 2Hth .—Potted up Lilacs, Rhododen¬ 
drons, and Spirseao for forcing. They will 
be kept in cold pit for the present. Lifted a 
bed of Roses, trenched and manured the 
ground ready for replanting later. The 
ground had become hard from so much tread¬ 
ing when cutting flowers in wet weather, and 
the mildew had become troublesome. We 
find this treatment brings the plants round 
again. A little good loam is placed round 
the roots in replanting. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

Questions. Queries and answers are inserted fn 
Gardkni.no free of charge if correspondents follow these 
rules: All communications should be. clearly and concisely 
written on one side of the paper only, and addressed to 
the Editor of Gakphmkq, 17, Furnival-street, Holborn, 
London, E.C. Letters on business should be sent to the. 
Publisher. The name and address of the sender are 
required in addition to any designation fie may desire to 
be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, 
each should be on a separate piece of paper, and not more 
than three queries should Ite sent at a time. Correspon¬ 
dents should bear in mind that, as Gardening has to be 
sent to press some time in admnee of date, queries cannot 
always be replied to in the issue immediately following 
the receipt of their communication. We do not reply to 
queries by post. 

Naming fruit — Readers who desire our help in 
naming fruit should bear in mind that several specimens 
in different stages of colour and size of the. same kind 
greatly assist in its determination. We ham received front, 
several correspondents single sjwciinens of fruits for 
naming, these in many cases being unripe, and other- 
wise poor. The differences between varieties of fruits are 
in many cases so tri/ting that it is necessary that three 
s/tecimens of each kind should be sent. We can uiulrrtake 
to nafne only four varieties at a time, and these only when 
the above directions are observed. 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

Pruning Lupins (R. Dent and C. M. IV.). —We 
assume that you are referring to Tree-Lupins (Lupinus 
arboreus). If so, they may be pruned in the spring, 
but this must he carefully done or the plants will 
assume a stiff appearance and spoil the natural 
grace of the plant. 

Early-flowering Gladioli {Cemetery ).-You can 
plant the early forms of Gladiolus you mention from 
October to January. When planting late, soak the 
bulbs in water a few hours before putting into the 
ground. When severe frost threatens cover with some 
long litter or other light, material, removing this in 
March. We have found that mulching with well-de¬ 
cayed manure and watering freely during the summer 
are of great advantage in the culture 01 these early- 
blooming Gladioli. 

Eighteen best exhibition Roses (R. D .).~The 
following would be a very excellent selection for ex¬ 
hibition, taking the first six for growing in standard 
form: Bessie Brown, Florence Pemberton. Her 
Majesty, Mrs. E. Maw ley, White Maman Cochet, 
Medea, Mildred Grant, Frau Karl Druschki, Mrs. 
John Laing, Ulrich Brunner, Dean Hole. A. K. Wil¬ 
liams, YTctor Hugo, Marquise Litta, Charles 
Lefebvre, Lady Ashtown, Hugh Dicksou, and Mine. 
Jules Gravereaux. 

Rose Marechal Niel flowering summer and 
autumn (C. Gray ).—This grand old Rose will blos¬ 
som continuously if it is not allowed to grow too 
vigorously, especially when upon a standard. If the 
aim be to obtain plenty of short lateral growths, by 
lifting the trees now and then to check their vigour, 
there is rarely any difficulty in obtaining plenty of 
blossom. We do not thiuk your tree possesses any 
special merit. The colour is a rich golden-yellow, as 
it should be, and you are favoured by being located 
in Essex, a county peculiarly favourable to the 
Rose. 

Camellias in the open air in Ireland (Petro- 
nius).—Ycs; Camellias ought to be hardy with you, 
and should do well. You must get well-established 
plants in pots if you intend trying them in the open 
air, and put them out in June. You will find an 
article dealing with " The Camellia Outdoors ” in 
our issue of March 17th, p. 32. A cony can be 
had from the publisher, post free, for l^d. The berries 
of the Thorn should be gathered when ripe, and 
stored in sand a year previous to sowing, and then 
sown 1 inch deep in November in the open garden, 
transplanting the following October. 

Cineraria leaves, insects on AC. Wood). Your 
Cineraria leaves have been attacked by the Mar¬ 
guerite Daisy-fly, which burrows into the leaves of 
these Daisies, Cinerarias, anil other composite plants, 
and feeds on the inner surface. When many leaves 
are attacked in this way the plants are not only 
rendered unsightly, but they also suffer in health. 
The best way of destroying this pest is to cut off the 
infested leaves and burn them, or, if the attack has 
only just commenced, to pinch the leaves where the 
grubs are. Syringing with an insecticide avails little, 
as this would not reach the grubs, but if done at the 
right time it might probably prevent the flies laying 
their eggs. 

Lantanas In Cumberland (La Rose).-Lantana? 
should do very well for planting out in Cumberland. 
They are best propagated in the spring from, cuttings 
of the young growing shoots in the same way, as 
Fuchsias—indeed, Lantanas conform altogether to 
much the same treatment as Fuchsias, except that 
they should not be kept quite so dry during the 
winter months. Plants propagated from cuttings 
next spring will be very small to be put out the same, 
year. You cannot propagate by means of cuttings 
now, as suitable cuttings cannot be obtained at this 
season. Lantana seed is now offered by the better 
class dealers, and if it, is sown in February in a 
gentle heat, and the young plants are crown on with¬ 
out a check, they will be large enough for plantiiSg 
out the same year. 

Plants for cold-house (A'. B.).—Were we in your , 
position we would purchase Auriculas, Polyanthuses, 
Snowdrops. Crocuses, Scillas, early bulbous Irises, 
and a small collection of alpines, with Narcissi and 
such things for flowering in pots in your cold green¬ 
house. The interest in such plants is never-ending, 
and the outlay very small. Indeed, a good assortment 
of useful subjects could be purchased for a sum much 
less than the heating of such a place would cost, 
in the winter you might have 6ucb things as the 
Wjnter Heliotrope (Tuasilago fragrans), the Christmas 




452 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


October 19, 1907 


Rose, autumn and winter-flowering Crocuses, Iris sty- 
losa. I. alata, etc. You might, at the same time, 
brighten the place with well fruited examples of 
Skimmias, Auouba vera,. etc., whose bright-scarlet 
berries are ever a feature. A little later, the Winter 
Aconite and many of the bulbous Irises may be had 
in bloom, together with a host of early Saxifrages, 
earlv Cvclamens, and the like. To follow these you 
could indulge in the plants above named, all of 
which are so absolutely hardy that there need he no 
fear concerning them. A little later we hope to pub¬ 
lish some notes on this subject. 

Herbaceous border (K. B .).—The following are 
all good and useful subjects for the border, hut you 
have not stated its probable width, and this is im- 
j>ortant. We are assuming, however, that you desire 
useful and free-growing things, and such as are valu¬ 
able for cutting, etc. Of such you may select Pro - 
bus, Gaillardias. Coreopsis pramliflora. Aster Aniel- 
lus, A. acris, A. deiteus, A. lreyigatus, A. eordi- 
folius, A. Arcturus, Iris germanlca in variety, such as 
pallida, Queen of May, Dr. Bernice, Princess of 
Wales, aurea, Mrs. Chas. Darwin, etc. You might, 
also select half-a-dozen single and double flowered 
Vyrethrums, a similar number of Delphiniums, and a 
like number of herbaceous Phloxes. In the oriental 
Poppies, Campanulas, Achillea, Anemone japonica, 
Helcniums, Helianthus, and the like, you will obtain 
many useful things, while Lilies. Daffodils, and 
Spanish Irises would afford beautiful flowers for a 
long period. The hybrid Columbines, too arc very 
charming. You should get a copy of “"he English 
Flower Garden.” which deals with hardy plants. We 
think such Roses as Mrs. Grant, Grace Darling, Mrs. 

1 Lai rig La France, Souv. de la Malmaison, General 
Jacqueminot, Alfred Colomb, Captain Christy White 
Pet,. Liberty, Celine Forestier, etc., would .suit you. 

TREES AND SHRUBS. 

The Loquat (Kriobotrya japonica) (Ealing ).-You 
should plant it out against a warm wall in a sheltered 
position. The large, evergreen leaves are very hand¬ 
some In warm districts it flowers, the blossoms 
being white, but it does not fruit in the open air in 
England. 

FRUIT. 

Gooseberries, propagating (Cheviot).-The best 
time to take cuttings of Gooseberries is during tins 
month and into November. As soon as the leaves 
have fallen, well-ripened shoots may be selected, 
about a foot in length, removing all the eyes at the 
bot tom of the shoot, say. to half its length. J bey 
can then he planted firmly in a border of rather sandy 
soil Bv next autumn they will he fine strong plants, 
and call be moved to their permanent- quarters. AH 
depends on the soil as to the value of any artificial 
manure. 

Pear for name (T. S. Your Pear is Autumn 
Bergamot- Ordinarily it is a fairly nice eating l ear, 
ripe end of September on stiff soils, and a heavy 
cropper as a rule. The fruits, however, seldom keep, 
and find their way when plentiful to costers barrows. 
The cause or sleepiness in Pears no one yet lias been 
able to determino. beyond that it is some kind of 
fiuigus-. But. how it gets into the fruits is a mystery. 
Many of our finest Pears sutler from it. as yours do. 
They look externally perfect, but- within are soft and 
rotten. If vonr fruits are the same each year, better 
have the tree hard beheaded in the spring, and graft 
the stems with some good variety. 


some practical man in your neighbourhood to look at 
them From what you say we should think the best 
wav would be to grub them up and plant healthy 

voting trees.-S. G.— Certainly such Roses are well 

fitted for arches, pergolas, etc.-IV. B.—Sec reply 

to • \V. B .” as to the difference between a tansy 
and a Viola, in our issue of April 28th, 1906. A copy 
of the above can be had from the publisher, post free, 
for ltd._ 

NAMES OP PLANTS AND FRUITS. 

Names of plants -J. -V.-Agathsra cceleetis; 2, 
Helianthus Miss Mcllish: S, Sedum Ewersi: 4, Sedum 

Aizoon.- T. A. Brew.-The Purple Ragwort (Seueclo 

elegans), an annual.- Glasbury.— We cannot under¬ 
take to name florist flowers.- Colchester.- !, Pliy- 

gelius capensis; 2, Next week.- A. F. G.— Escallonia 

Philippian a.-/i. S. Warrington.— Please send fresh 

specimens, tiilmbering each.- Robt. Greening.— Corn 

Marigold (Chrysanthemum segetum).- ; — G. G.— Yes, 
the specimen you send is Campanula isophylla alba. 
The plant is evidently starved, judging from the 
specimen you send us.—— S. IV. G.— Oncidiura incur- 

vuni.-/. Arkle.— 1. The. Tutsan (Hypericum Andro- 

sa nuun; 2, Arbutus Cnedo; 3, Solid a go Y'irgaiirea.: 4, 

Geranium pyrenaicum.- Marian Silva.— The weed 

vou send is the Maisli Pennywort (Ilydrocotylo vul¬ 
garis), a plant found in marshes, bogs, etc-, plainly 
showing that your lawn is too wet and is in want of 
draining. Until this is done you cannot clear out this 
weed.— — Medoc.— Lihonia floribunda. C. II. Matter. 

— Yellow flower. Achillea Kupatorium (syn. A. lib 
penduia): purple flower. Aster sp.: Running plant. 
Ground Ivy (Nepeta Glechoma). When sending flowers 
for name, kindly number each specimen.— 7 < ’arolus.— 

I. Oxalis corniculata rubra; 2, Oxalis corn icu hit a.- 

J. LI. O. We eannet undertake to name florist flowers. 

" Hebridean.— 1, Cimicifuga simplex; 2, Polygonum 

spine rostachyum. 

Names of fruit- W. Stocker.-Apples: J. Not 
recognised; 2, Bismarck; 3, team s Pippin: 4. Golden 

Spire.- B. Cozen* Hardy. -Specimens insufficient; 

please send when ripe. —F. <’• Cons table.-Whm\o 

Pippin.- V. E. R. Peach Barrington. When sending 

Peaches for name it is always advisable to send a 

small shoot as well.-T. M.-Pears: 1. iondante 

d Automne: 2. Probably Comte de Flandre, not aufli- 
ciently ripe to give a definite opinion. 

Catalogues received — F. C. Heinernami. Erfurt. 

- List of Novelties. -Vincent Lebreton a la 1 yra- 

liiide-Trelaze. Maine et Loire, France.-GVtirrn/ Cata¬ 
logue of Plants. 

National Sweet Pea Society.-We are asked to 
state that the National Sweet Pea Society s London 
show will be held c 11 Friday, July 24lli, 1908, at the 
Royal Horticultural Hall._ 

Asphalte tennis court. - 1 have an asphalt c 
tennis-court, which has been repaired 111 various 
places with concrete. It presents a very ugly ap 


CANTS 

World=renowned 

CHAMPION 

ROSES 


Direct from the Original Firm. 
Established 1765. 


(c 


VEGETABLES. 

Manuring and cropping 


„ - lar « e Rarden 

file quantity of manure required to dress 


an acre or so of Aground depends on its present, con¬ 
dition. Your ground seems to be poor and to need a 
heavy dressing of manure, certainly not- less than 
40 tons or loads. That may cost you i. 10. All de- 
pends on the local charges, cost of cartage, and the 
quality of the manure. No doubt heavy cow-manure 
would be better for you than long, fresh stable- 
manure. but good, short, half decayed stable-manure 
is on the whole, the best. Even with that you would 
<io well to add. at the rate of 6 ewt to 8 cwt.prr 
acre, a mixture of three-fourths bone-flour and kainit. 
the other fourth being sulphate of ammonia, all well 
crushed and mixed. Get the animal-manure drcwing 
in during October or November, then strew the artificial 
manures over, and fork in early in February. YYliat 
supply of vegetables you should obtain is out of our 
power to state; all depends on the productive quality 
of the soil, and the culture shown in cropping, and 
care But your estimate of a supply for 100 persons 
is too high. We cannot recommend seedsmen. 


with grey blotches 



pearance. being dotted all ■ . „ - 

where the repairing has been done. Can you tell me 
is there any dressing that would give it u uniform 
black appearance and keep fairly permanent , resist ing 
the action of rain, etc.? As it is in a position by the 
sea, most difficult of access, it- would be extremely 
expensive and troublesome to remake it.— ixqitrlk. 

Two late Peaches. -In the issue of October 5th. 
p 4113 there arc several notes oil Peach Barrington. 
Vs this comes into use with me during early Septem¬ 
ber, 1 will mention two varieties that come in later 
and’ which do. well with me. One of these is Alex 
andra Noblesse, which grows freely, sets freely, and 
the fruit is of a fair size. It comes into use about 
September 20th. and as the weather grows colder it 
keeps ripening slowly, and covers a much longer I 
period than most other varieties. The second variety 
is Princess of Wales, which never fails to produce a 
fair crop of good-sized fruit. I have a tree on a wall, 
covering a space of 14 feet by 9 feet This is carry¬ 
ing (at the time of writing) 190 well finished fruits, 
which, 1 need hardly say, will be highly prized at the 
dinner-table during the closing days of October.- 
Thomas Fleming, The Ashe, Brag, Co. H icrdow. 


THE FINEST STOCK OF ROSES 
IN THE KINGDOM. 


MISCELLANEOUS, 
tank (R. II. Bailey).- 


Making a tank (R. H. Hauey ).-Set the bricks 
with ordinary mortar mixed with a small quantity or 
Portland cement, and then plaster the whole of the 
inside with cement and flue washed sand in equal 
parts to the thickness of a half or three-quarters of 
an inch. The bottom, too. must be well made of 
gravel and cement, and this also must be plastered 
over in the same way as the sides. If you have a 
-itiff clay soil the making of a tank for YYater Lilies 
is a very simple matter, as nothing can surpass a 
well puddled clay for the purpose 

SHORT REPLIES. 


Sicarling.—flee the reply to “ Seakale, Somerset, 
in our issue of December 22nd, 1906, p. m. The adv ice 
there given should be followed by you.— -Rosario.— 
The strongest growing, self-clinging Ampelopsis is A. 
Yeitchi Any horticultural sundriesman or iron¬ 
monger can get you the watering-can you inquire 

about.- Kilelton .—You will find a small slug is the 

cause of the trouble. We have had the same thing 

happen.- Cotsicold.— No; you must use gas-lime. 

Procure it and apply it at the earliest opportunity 
to any vacant ground you may have.——T. F. Curtis. 
— Apply to any horkfcuTtura 1 sundriesilan.— E. N — 
YY th ing the^rees^r^ dii?^* J^tlvise. Ask 


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Full DfMTiptire Catalogue Jrrr art application. 

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To do this successfully get the up-to-date 

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WONDERFUL COLLECTION for ROCKERY. 
3s. 6d.. FREE. —Auhnetia Leichtlim, Oypsophda repens. 
Diantbus deltoidcs, Veronica rupestris. Tunica Saxifraga. 
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Silpne odontonetala. 'Liwonf double Primroses. Rock and 
Perennial Plants —HOPKINS, F.R.H-S-, Hillside. 
BtvrroinK, Maidstone. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


No. 1,494 .—Vol. XXIX. 


Founded by W. Robinson, Author of “ The English Flower Garden." 


OCTOBER 26, 1907. 


INDEX. 


Apples failing 
Apricot, growing an .. 
Bou vardias in the green¬ 
house . 

Bui ha for garden 
Cabbage for spring use 
Calanthea (Mu ran La) 

zebrina. 

Ceanothuses, two good 
Chrysanthemum Hector, 
early-flowering 
Chrysanthemum Orange 
Pet, Pompon .. 
Ctaryaanthe uiu ma 
Ch rysan t hemurns—pros¬ 
pects of the season .. 


4.V» 

Clem at in Duchess 

of 


Garden work 

464 

Onychiuuis 

463 

Potatoes . 

453 

450 

Edinburgh 


.462 

Gloxinias. 

466 

Orchard-home trees in 


R >om and window 

4.58 


Climber#, treatment 

oi 

46J 

Gooseberries growing 


pots . 

464 

Root crops, raising 

Rose Edu Meyer 

454 

462 

Conservatory 


464 

too strongly .. 

466 

Outdoor garden .. 

461 

458 

451 

Coreopsis.. 


46) 

Horse Chestnuts (.F.s- 


Outdoor plants .. 

460 

Rose failing 

466 

4o4 

Cucumbers 


453 

cuius hippocasianum), 


Parsley. 

4a 4 

Rose Floribunda (Nois- 



Cucumbers, winter 


451 

the . 

459 

Peach-tree, scale on .. 

456 

cite) . 

457 

462 

Cytisua Andreanu i 


465 

Hydrangeas, blue 

460 

Pear-tree blooming for 


Rose Gabrielle Pierette 


460 

Ferns 


463 

Indoor plants 

462 

the third time in 


(Hybrid Tea) .. 

458 


Ferns, basket 


464 

Irises, winter 

460 

one year. 

456 

Rose seed .. 

4.58 

464 

Ferns in small pot? 


463 

Law and custom.. 

465 

Pear-trees, stunted 

456 




Flower notes, hardy 


450 

Maples, cutting back .. 

459 

Pears, cordon .. 

455 

not flowering .. 

466 

461 

Flowers, long-stemmed 

438 

Marguerites, keeping . 

463 

Plants, greenhouse, in 


Roses . 

457 

4&3 

Fruit garden 


461 

Nectarine-trees gum- 


flower. 

462 

Roses, classing .. 

438 


Garden diary, extracts 


miag . 

456 

Plants in the spare 


Rosea for forcing 

457 

463 

from a .. 


465 

Oleander not flowering 

462 

room . 

458 

Roses for pergola 

466 


Rones, pruning .. 
Royal Horticultural 

Society. 

Salads for winter 
Soil, impr(*ing hea^y .. 

Stove . 

Strawberries 
Tomatoes, outdoor 
Trees and shrubs 
Tropieolum tricolor 
Vegetable garden 
Vegetables 

Vines, pruning early .. 
Weeks work, the 
coming.. 

Window gardening 


465 

454 

454 
464 

455 
454 
459 
462 
461 
453 

464 

465 
458 


VEGETABLES. 


POTATOES. 

The yield of Potatoes in this district must be 
considerably below the average. Disease ap¬ 
peared just when the tubers were swelling 
freely, and, from what I hear, a large per¬ 
centage of the crop has decayed. Many years 
ago, when the York Regent was the main- 
crop variety, we had a series of bad seasons, 
and the fact that this Potato took disease 
badly made matters worse. In England we 
were threatened with a Potato famine, and, 
had it not been for the Scotch growers. Pota¬ 
toes that winter would, undoubtedly, have 
been five or six shillings per bushel. It was 
the Scotch Champion, a variety apparently 
quite unknown to growers in the home coun¬ 
ties, that saved the situation. This Potato, 
which has not a taking appearance, found 
favour in the country of its origin on account 
of its cropping powers, robust nature, and 
immunity from disease during a series of wet 
years, which played havoc with Potato crops 
generally. Evidently this variety had been 
largely grow n for some years on the other side 
of the border, for all through the winter the 
London markets were abundantly supplied 
with sound samples, which were retailed at 
12s. per sack. In those duys cutting off the 
haulm found favour with some, and, if done in 
time, the crop, such as it was, escaped 
disease. I remember saving my crop several 
years in succession when disease came in a 
violent form, and niv neighbours lmd few 
sound tubers left. The advent of Magnum 
Bonuin put an end to the necessity for en¬ 
deavouring to save crops in this manner, for 
although disease might attack the leaf, the 
stems were so little affected that even in a 
year which favoured the spread of this de¬ 
structive fungus not more than 1 per cent, of 
the tubers would be affected. This Potato, 
from which our reliable late varieties are 
descended, originated in a curious way. A 
person who happened to be in a bud state of 
health happened to note a pod of seed on a 
plant of Late Rose, and thought he would 
amuse himself by raising some seedling Pota¬ 
toes. He did so, and he planted them out in 
his little garden. The summer was wet, and 
disease appeared in a virulent form. All the 
seedlings hut one were destroyed, and this 
one stood out boldly, fresh and fair, among 
them, the tubers, when lifted, showing no 
signs of disease. One of our leading trade 
growers was commuuicuted with, the stock 
came into his hands, and Magnum Bonum was 
cultivated to the exclusion of all other late 
varieties. It seems strange that this Potato, 
after being the mainstay of growers for a good 
many years, should have collapsed so sud¬ 
denly. I grew some of the finest crops I ever 
saw for some years, but during the last two 
or three seasons the returns were so poor 
that I was obliged to discard it. Probably, 
change of seed might have restored the lost 
vitality, but at that time the importance of 
(•hanging the stock eitli 

Digitize ^ L 1 


liof S&iuially nr bleiini- 

Co gr<* 


ally, was not generally realised. Wliat this 
has clone may be seen in the case of Early 
Rose, which, within the last half decade, has 
not only recovered lost popularity, but is now- 
regarded as the most valuable early Potato 
in cultivation, especially by those who grow 
more or less largely for profit. Under the 
best conditions it can be relied on to yield 
heavy crops, and if the grower should be 
spared a visitation from those periods of in¬ 
clement weather that too often characterise 
the month of May, he will have something to 
send to market in the early summer months. 
Some growers in this district obtain their 
seed from the Lincolnshire Fen lands, but a 
good many are of opinion that it is not far 
enough away to get the full benefit of the 
change. These obtain their stock from 
France, and although it conics from such a 
distance, it costs no more than if obtained 
from some distant part in England. It is 
claimed for vvliat is now called the French 
Rose, that it goes away more freely and 
matures curlier than is the case with home¬ 
grown seed. This may be due to the fact 
that it is grown more in accordance with the 
conditions that prevail in the land of its 
birth, the tubers ripen earlier, and take on 
greater substance. 

With respect to late kinds, the reverse is 
the case, growers in the south of England 
finding it infinitely more profitable to get 
seed from Scotland. Some change the whole 
of their stock anniuiUv, others partially or 
biennially. I am told that in tljg second 
year the haulm is considerably shorter, but 
the yield is generally good, though not quite 
so heavy as that from seed direct from over the 
border. As regards the Lincolnshire seed, I 
have been told that a change from the black 
sand, as it is called, is no change at all for 
those that have light land to deal with. Mv 
experience in a small way confirms this state¬ 
ment. When several years ago Potatces 
failed so badly in this district, I obtained 
some Early Puritan from a Lincolnshire 
grower, and by their colour it was easy to 
see that they came from the black soil. Some 
I grew myself, the remainder were distri¬ 
buted among allotment holders, the result 
being a failure all round. There was an ab¬ 
sence of vigour, the yield being no better than 
that obtained from home-grown seed. I feel 
convinced that altitude as well as soil exer¬ 
cises an invigorating influence on the produc¬ 
tive capacity of the Potato. This season a 
local dealer persuaded me to try seed of Up- 
to-Date from a locality only eight or nine 
miLee from where I live. He said it was 
grown on chalk, there being only just enough 
loam to earth up with, the land being situ¬ 
ated on the slopes of the well-known Surrey 
hills. This seed has given excellent results, 
the growth being free, and, considering the 
small amount of manure used, the yield 
is remarkably good. The well-known Up- 
to Date is still the mainstay of growers in 
this district.. Eldorado, once worth its 
weight in gold, has not proved to be a gold 
mine, and Northern Star is also more or less 


a failure. Two varieties that will undoubtedly 
be largely grown are Duchess of Cornwall 
and Factor. The former is a handsome 
Potato, clear in the skin, and has a more 
taking appearance than Up-to-Date, and must 
become a favourite in the Loudon markets. 
The latter came out some years ago in com¬ 
pany with the Crofter, which I tried, but 
found wanting, but its companion appears to 
be gaining in popularity. 

The following details have been furnished 
me by Mr. Locke, head master of the Byfleet 
Schools, who for several years past has been 
giving the newer kinds of Potatoes a trial. 
Duchess of Cornwall : 7 lb. planted yielded 
210 Jb., of which 8-J lb. were diseased. 
Factor : 7 1b. planted yielded 196 lb. ; 6£ lb. 
diseased. Table Talk, grown side by side, 
was comparatively a failure. Northern Star 
and Edward VII. have also proved unsatis 
factory. The ground for the above-mentioned 
kinds was only moderately manured, but was 
trenched and w r ell seasoned before planting. 
The seed came direct from Messrs. Dobbio, 
of Rothesay, so that the yield of 30 lb. for 
every 1 lb. planted, in the case of Duchess of 
Cornwall, is attributable not only to culture 
and variety, but to the fact that the seed 
came from a northern locality. In a year 
when disease Ls rife the percentage of bad 
tubers must be regarded as small, and I 
strongly advise growers for profit to make 
note of these two varieties, especially of the 
Duchess, which must become a market 
favourite. Up-to Date is so good that growers 
generally do not care to depend on any other 
kind, but it is well to have two strings to the 
bow. Up-to-Date may go the way of Mag¬ 
num Bonum, in which case we should have 
to look for a successor. 

West Surrey . J. Cornhill. 


CUCUMBERS. 

Recently a nice-looking, not long, but, pos¬ 
sibly, prolific, Cucumber was placed before 
the fruit committee of the Royal Horticul¬ 
tural Society for an award as new. The com¬ 
mittee are bound by the society’s rules to 
make no award to Cucumbers claiming to be 
new until they have been grown for trial in 
the Wisley gardens. Such a trial is now very 
practicable, as there is a house specially 
suited to such purpose, and as a really first- 
class Melon trial was conducted in it this 
year, there is no reason why one of Cucum¬ 
bers may not be equally successful. But it 
may be asked, seeing how many assumed 
varieties of Cucumbers there are in com¬ 
merce, and so many of them really excellent, 
what need there is for further trial. But the 
primary object of the establishment of the 
fruit committee is to deal with the merits of 
new products placed before the members, and 
occasional trials to test the merits of these 
new' ones against old or established varieties 
are, therefore, essential to enable the com¬ 
mittee to discharge its duty. There would 
seem to be in cultivation varieties of Cucum¬ 
bers that, though not in commerce, having 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




















454 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


October 26, 1907 


been privately raised and grown, are of high 
merit. It is such as these, with the best- 
known forms in commerce, that should be 
included in any such trial. It is desirable, 
also, that the varieties should be, so far as 
possible, classified—long 6mooth, medium or 
short smooth, black spine and white spine, 
show varieties, and market varieties. If got 
together in some such way, the work of com¬ 
parison might be greatly helped. That out 
of some fifty house or frame Cucumbers it be 
found that ten or twelve varieties stand out 
as best on all points, what more can be 
needed? And such complete trial having 
been thus carefully conducted, it would be 
needless to orgftiii.se a further one for at 
least ten years, a# in that period of time, if 
anything new does crop up, it may well be 
kept for private trial a few years before being 
submitted to'publio test. It might, perhaps, 
be said that varieties of Cucumbers doing 
well in the summer may not be the best For 
winter cultivation. But such culture has 
little general value, although some gardeners 
do find it needful to keep up a supply through 
the winter as best they ca.n. Certainly the 
Cucumber is a summer fruit or salad, and is 
then by far the most in request. 

Of old varieties specially worthy of inclu¬ 
sion in any trial now is the once popular Blue 
Gown, a spiny fruit, having a bluish coloured 
rind and flesh of excellent flavour. There is 
much room for satisfaction in noting that 
long, large fruits are now out of favour at 
exhibitions; nice clean, smooth, fresh fruits, 
very straight, and the pair in every respect 
the reproduction of each other, and ubout 
14 inches to 15 inches long, are chiefly pre¬ 
ferred, and represent, so far as appearance 
is concerned, all that can be desired. Many 
amateur gardeners grow Cucumbers during 
the summer in greenhouses or frames, and, 
no doubt, like to learn which varieties in a 
trial suit their purposes best. A. D. 

OUTDOOR TOMATOES. 

The past summer line been a poor one for 
Tomatoes, especially in some places. I have, 
during the past three months, had an oppor¬ 
tunity of seeing Tomatoes growing in the 
open in various soils and under diverse 
methods of culture, but in no instance have I 
heard of a greater failure than that recorded 
at page 424 by “Wilts.” I saw in a Surrey 
garden the first week in October six dozen 
plants growing on a close-boarded fence. 
These had on them some ripe and unripe 
fruit. The owner told me he gave Is. 6d. per 
dozen for the plants, and would not get that, 
amount out of the fruit. This 1 can under¬ 
stand, as within half a mile I could obtain 
nice even sized fruit for fourpence per lb. 

I know a fruiterer that bought in Coveut Gar¬ 
den in the same week a good sample at two¬ 
pence per lb. Where and by whom are these 
grown in a season of this kind? In hot sum¬ 
mers like that of 1906 one could account for 
it. Still, I am convinced growers find money 
in it, or else the culture of Tomatoes would 
not continue to extend. 

Being, at Reading on the 6th of October, 1 
had a wish to see the vegetable trials at 
Messrs. Sutton’s. After seeing many things 
of interest, I was shown the Tomatoes, which 
were tied to stakes. Without exception, 
every plant was carrying from five to twenty 
bunches of fruit. In many cases half of the 
fruit was ripe. The plants had had their 
leafage reduced. Enough room was given to 
expose every portion of the plant. The root¬ 
ing medium was hard, and evidently this had 
been in their favour, as hardly a trace of 
disease could I.h* seen. I was told these were 
planted out at the close of May. They must 
have made progress from the first, seeing 
the plants were 4 feet high, and carrying a 
truss of fruit almost close to the top. I was 
told the crop grown under the same conditions 
last, year was enormous. One thing was 
noticeable- namely, that the fruits, which 
were slightly corrugated, and those of the 
Conference type, were the most numerous. 

J. C. F. 

- The serious harm done to extensive 

breadths of Tomatoes outdoors, just recently' 
recorded, after all may not, so far as the 
frost itself is concerned, prove tf> be so great 
a loss, because flhereason been 


ungenial, that nowhere was there any pros¬ 
pect of getting a good crop of ripe fruit from 
outdoor plants. Knowing that, I was some¬ 
what surprised, on visiting the R.H.S. gar¬ 
dens, Wisfcev, on the 8th inst., to find there, 
oil outdoor plants grown for trial, compara¬ 
tively heavy crops of fruit, although but few 
of them were ripe. As the gardens have a 
warm site and soil, no doubt Tomatoes were 
exceptionally favoured. Had there been an 
ordinary summer, the fruit crop, fully ripe 
at the time uamed. would have been a heavy 
one. There were some eighty varieties under 
name, but, of course, many very closely re¬ 
sembling each other. Perhaps the heaviest 
cropper was Carter’s Sunrise, a variety which 
has the great merit under open-air culture of 
producing no large or ungainly fruits. Some 
may take exception to the medium size of its 
fruits, but that is, outdoors, a feature to bo 
appreciated ; none of the fruits crack, and 
there were not the least .signs of disease. 
Another which had a good.crop was Up-to- 
Date. Very many had coarse, ugly fruits, 
and all such varieties should be avoided. 
Some seemed rather more tender than others, 
and had poor leafage. A good number 
showed excellent average cropping, but were 
either late or had some evidence of disease. 
Most certainly the outdoor Tomato has 
proved a broken reed to growers this year. 
The best place, uo doubt, is under grass, 
and those, perhaps, are wisest who pin their 
faith to glass-house culture rather than in 
trusting to a fickle climate. D. 

RAISING ROOT CROPS. 

(Reply to Miss V. Kimon.) 
October, early or late, according to locality, 
is the month for storing many of the roots or 
tubers necessary for the winter and spring 
supply of the kitchen. The Potato is the 
most important crop, and in many cases it 
has already been lifted. The crop is far from 
heavy down west, so tlmt every sound tuber 
should be taken care of. The latter half of 
September has been most favourable for get¬ 
ting these out of the ground, and no difficulty 
experienced in sorting, which is far from the 
case when they have to be dug in showery 
weather. Little or no disease is recorded in 
this part of the country, so that loss owing 
to storing should be at a minimum. Some 
cultivators sort out the seed tubers a-s lifted, 
so that they can be stored in a cool, light, 
airy position; others merely throw; out the 
very small ones, and defer the selection of 
the seed for wet days or very frosty weather, 
when the outdoor work has to be abandoned. 

Respecting a suitable storage, many “pit” 
or “clamp” the tubers in the same field they 
were grown in, choosing a dry position for 
them, taking out 18 inches or so of the soil, 
and when a good heap lias been got together, 
cover them over with Bracken or straw, to 
ward off frost, rain. etc. Where, however, 
ample space under cover can be found, and 
suitable for their reception, dark and cool, 
there can be no two opinions as to which 
method to adopt. Beetroot must be placed 
out of the way of much frost, and does little 
good left in the ground after the middle of 
October. Should there be any difficulty in 
pulling the roots up, a fork should be placed 
under them and lifted, as to break the tap¬ 
root much would end in the Beet being of a 
bad colour after cooking. Twist off the tops, 
and set aside small or deformed roots for 
horses, fowls, or pigs. The roots should be 
boiled for the fowls. Stack the good ones in 
a cool, dark shed, shaking in a little dry soil, 
sand, or coal-ashes between every two or 
three layers. Here they will keep sound and 
good for nearly a- year. Carrots sown from 
March up to the end of May will be the better 
for lifting, and require similar attention as 
Beet, discarding any that are split; those 
sown in July and August are better in the 
ground until early spring, and may require a 
little mulching where much frost is experi¬ 
enced. Winter Jerusalem Artichokes in like 
manner, but part of the crop should Km? taken 
under cover, as when the ground is frozen 
hard it is well-nigh impossible to dig them 
up. Parsnips withstand our severest win¬ 
ters, and keep much better in the 6oil, rais¬ 
ing enough to maintain a supply' in cose of 
hard frost. Turnips come under the same 


heading as do Carrots, allowing late summer 
and early autumn sowings to remain where 
they are. 

Melon . J. Mayne. 

NOTES AND EE PLIES. 

Cabbage for spring use.— The earlier 

these are planted in the month of October the 
better, as then they have a good chance of 
making progress before much frost checks 
their growth. The past few weeks have been 
a bit dry for the young plants, but as soon as 
th£ weather changes they should he got into 
their permanent quarters. Good ground, 
made firm before planting, is what Cabbages 
like, if carefully lifted, planted, and watered 
in. Should #lugs attack them, a dusting of 
fresh lime and soot occasionally will keep 
them at bay. A distance of 15 inches apart 
each way is ample for some of the earliest 
varieties of to-day, as, after the heads have 
been cut, the roots may be pulled up and the 
ground prepared for a #ummer crop, such as 
Peas, Cauliflowers, or Celery. The smaller 
plants may be dibbled into nursery lines, re¬ 
maining there until February or early March, 
when transplant as above stated. These will 
follow the earliest batch,, and come in most 
useful. Caterpillars have been very trouble¬ 
some, and 1 have always found that they 
attack young plantation# more frequently 
than old beds left standing to supply second¬ 
ary Cabbages.—M. 

Salads for winter.— With a greenhouse 
and a eold-frauie one may not be without 
salads in winter, if room is set apart for their 
growth. Now. for instance, Lettuce can be 
grown under frame-lights from seed sown in 
the house. French Breakfast Radish can be 
raised in deep boxes in a house, whilst Mus¬ 
tard and Cress may be grown to order in a 
few days with the needful heat at hand; 
whilst Mint-roots, placed in a box or pot, 
will provide fresh green leaves whenever de¬ 
sired. Endive, sown in August, may be lifted 
now. placed in cold-frames, and planted 
fairly close together. The plants may be 
blanched by lifting and potting a few, and 
putting them under the stages in the green¬ 
house. Lettuce raised from seed sown thinly 
in a box will, in a few weeks, provide fresh, 
green leaves that make an acceptable addi¬ 
tion to the salad-bowl in winter.—F. W. D. 

Parsley. —The first spring sowing' is be¬ 
ginning to look untidy, a deal of the bottom 
foliage turning yellow, on account of the 
heavy growth above excluding the light. 
These fronds need removing, and if the bed 
could bo cut over now. new growth would 
ensue, and give a bountiful supply through¬ 
out the winter. To be able to do this, other 
plants must be ready to gather from, or a 
break would occur. At all events, part of 
the stock may be so treated. Do not gather 
too freely from plants that are to bo lifted 
and potted up. Keep the hoe well plied be¬ 
tween to promote a free growth.— Devonian. 

—- Not until the need for Paisley presents Itself 
Is it deemed necessary to give much attention to 
it —at least, this is so in the majority of gardens, 
l fauev. That it is one of the most useful things 
we have in a garden in winter will he admitted. It 
is worth while to go to the trouble of placing a frame 
light over the bed, or at this time of the year re¬ 
serving space for a few plants in a corner of the 
frame, where half-hardy things like Calceolarias are 
grown.—F. D. 

Winter Cucumbers.— Plant another house 
to come in in succession if Cucumbers must be 
had all the year round. If there is an earlier 
house, the house planted now may be held in 
reserve, and the plants cropped very moder¬ 
ately. The worst time for winter Cucum¬ 
bers is when the days turn in January. If 
the plants are exhausted by heavy cropping, 
and there are no other plant# coming on, 
there will be a scarcity of Cucumbers for 
some time.—E. H. 

Improving heavy soil:— In some districts the 
soil is so heavy that unless it is made light and 
friable it Is almost, useless attempting to grow cer¬ 
tain subjects. That such soils can be improved by 
burning the surface i? admitted, but it is obvious that 
this entails a great deal of trouble. Another method 
is to intermix at this time of the year dressings of 
light material, like road-scrapings, burnt vegetable 
refuse, ashes from the greenhouse, lime rubble, and 
similar substance*, all of which can be dug in and 
Lire land left rough, so that frosts may pulverise and 
lighten it, I have seen the advantage of .this winter 
work on heavy, clayey land, and am convinced that 
the trouble is more than recompensed -afterward 
WtiElilwvM VJr ILLinUlJ Ml 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


October 26, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


455 


FRUIT. 

CORDON PEARS. 

This system of growing Pear-trees has much 
to recommend it, as the fruit produced from 
upright cordons on a wall is often larger and 
of better flavour than when grown in any 
other form. Another advantage is that many 
more varieties can be grown. Cordon trees 
require more attention in regard to feeding, 
stopping, and root pruning than those grown 
in any other form ; therefore, if this system 
is adopted these matters should be taken into 
consideration. We do not advise planting a 
great many varieties, but only those that are 
well known and good for the purpose, and 
that will prolong the season as much us pos¬ 
sible. The best varieties we consider for 
cordons are Souvenir du Congres, Louise 
Bonne of Jersey, Beurre Supertin, Beurre 


paration beyond a modicum of fresh soil 
placed about the roots, they soon get into a 
sorry plight unless the natural soil should be 
of good quality and suitable for Pear culture. 
A littLe attention will avert this if the- roots 
are afforded a top-dressing of rich compost 
1 every two or three years, and if this is regu¬ 
larly attended to cordon Pears may be main¬ 
tained in a healthy bearing condition for a 
i number of years. Many may object to de¬ 
voting so much time to these cordon Pears, 
but as the fruits produced by them are in- 
I variably' of large size and of exceptionally 
good quality, they amply compensate the 
owner for any little extra trouble be may lie 
I put to. Unless unyoue contemplating plant¬ 
ing cordon Pears is prepared to afford them 
J this amount, of attention when the trees be 
I come established and in full bearing, I would 
I advise him to abandon the idea. Cordon 
Pears are as equally deserving of extra atten 


fibrous loam, with which have been mixed a 
little lime rubble, wood ashes, and a plenti¬ 
ful addition of bone-meal. The compost is 
placed evenly all over the roots, trodden 
firmly, and afterwards mulched. In the sea- 
| sons when top-dressing is omitted the border 
receives a winter mulch of half-decayed 
j manure spread over the surface about 
I 3 inches thick. During the summer months 
I two applications of superphosphate of lime 
I and muriate of potash are given. This is 
mixed in equal quantities and sprinkled on 
| the surface at the rate of 2 oz. per square 
yard. This should be applied just before rain 
or immediately before watering the border, 
as, like all other chemical manures, it is use¬ 
less if left lying on the surface. Trees which 
have got into a bad condition should be 
partially or wholly lifted and replanted in 
fresh compost, and then top-dressed after¬ 
wards to keep them in a healthy' state when 



Cordon Pear-trees on a high wall in the gardens at Powis Castle, Welshpool. 


Hardy, Beurre Diel, Doyenne du Comice, 
Marie Louise, Thompson’s, Winter Nelis, 
Beurre Baltet, Glou Moreeau, Bergamotte 
d’Esperen, and Easter Beurre. Much de¬ 
pends upon soil and situation, so that iri 
selecting varieties this should be taken into 
account. 

Asa rule, borders for growing cordon Pears 
in are seldom constructed more than.3 feet 
wide, and often not so wide as this, while the 
depth varies from 2 feet to 2 feet 6 inches. 
Very often no special preparation is made 
for them, and- the trees are planted in the 
existing soil with the addition, perhaps, of a 
little fresh compost to cover the roots with 
to give them a start. A border of the above- 
named dimensions provides a sufficient quan¬ 
tity of soil for the requirements of the trees 
for some time after being planted, but as the 
majority of them are w'orked on the Quince- 
stock, which emits a multitude of hungry 
feeding roots, it follows that the soil in time 
soon becomes exhaustedr> When the trees are 
plantedj in the staplefwitlv little 0pfl>pre- 


tion in the way of root management as are ! 

1 Peaches and Apricots, for instance, and they I 
, always give excellent returns when it is ! 
! accorded them. 

The proper method to pursue in cordon i 
Pear culture is not to wait until the roots I 
have exhausted the soil in which they are 
planted, and for the trees to assume ail un- I 
I healthy appearance, but to examine the border , 
annually' and so ascertain when the roots are 1 
in need of aid in the shape of fresh compost. I 
With a properly constructed border this 
I would not be necessary until the trees were j 
well established and bearing annual crops of ' 
fruit, but after this a top-dressing every second 
! or third year will maintain them in a state of 
; efficiency. In the absence of a proper border I 
a stricter surveillance would be necessary. 

| In dealing with these trees a good plan is to 
- remove as much surface soil as can be done 
! with safety, or until plenty of roots is found, 
much in the same way as when preparing a 
Vine border for top-dressing, and then re- I 
, place it with a compost consisting of good I 


they have recovered. This will keep the roots 
near the surface and in an active condition. 

T. 


STRAWBERRIES. 

It is common practice when planting a 
breadth of Strawberries to put them on to 
ground from which some other crop, such as 
Onions, Peas, or Potatoes, has been cleared, 
giving the ground no farther attention than 
merely levelling it or lightly forking it over, 
to render the soil friable. That sort of treat¬ 
ment may do very well where, prior to the 
putting in of the previous Crop, the ground 
bos been deeply worked and well manured. 
That is, however, far too seldom the ease. It. 
should always be remembered that Straw¬ 
berries, once planted, usually remain on the 
ground for three years, also that they fruit 
in the hottest period of the year. As a conse¬ 
quence, unless roots have gone deep, and in 
doing 60 find ample moisture and manure, 
their chances of producing a good crop of 
fruit are^ibor. Planls put out after 1 ' 'other 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 









456 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


October 26, 1907 


crops on merely dug ground may do very well 
for the first year, especially if the weather be 
damp; but the real test comes with the 
second and third year’s cropping season, and 
only where there lias been deep culture will 
a crop of fine fruits follow. 

In high class gardens now, where Straw¬ 
berry culture is of the best, no one would 
dream of planting a new breadth on other 
than deeply trenched soil. We have got a 
long way, indeed, from a form of Strawberry- 
growing common sixty years ago, when plants 
and runners were permitted to make a dense 
mass of crowns and leaves, and it was the 
farther practice in the late autumn to mow 
the leaves off with a scythe, and then top- 
dress the beds for the winter with short 
manure. Certainly fruits were obtained in 
fair abundance, and as the soil was covered 
with leafage the fruits were clean, but they 
were relatively 6inall. It is, possibly, the 
rule to grow the popular preserving Straw¬ 
berry, Grove-end Scarlet, in this way still, 
as 6inall, clean fruits are needed. But, in 
these days, fine, well finished fruits must be 
produced, and to secure those, deeply-worked 
soil, plenty of manure, well buried down, and 
winter mulchings are essential to success. 

A. D. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 


Growing an Apricot —1 have ordered, for de¬ 
livery next month, an Apricot-tree (Moorpark), 
trained fan-fashion, intending to plant upon a 
4 feet 6 inch wall, and train horizontally; but have 
been told Apricot-trees grow like a Victoria Plum, 
and that the wall is too low. Which is the best place 
for Apricot-tree—1, low wall facing due east; 2, 0 feet 
high close-boarded fence facing due south ; 3, side of 
house facing west, but partly screened by another 
house only about 12 feet away (the sun does not 
reach the place till about 10 a.in., and leaves again 
at noon); 4, planted in the open, facing south, sup¬ 
ported on sort of wooden trellis (I have seen Pear- 
trees grown this way); 5, if none of above positions 
satisfactory, kindly give name of good keeping dessert 
Pear to grow as pyramid? The soil is sandy. Wil¬ 
liams and Fertility Pears do well.—N. It. L. 

[(I) You have been correctly informed re¬ 
specting Apricots not being a success when 
planted against a low wall, neither will they 
succeed on an eastern aspect. (2) The posi¬ 
tion is good, but the fence quite low enough. 
The difficulty in this case can be obviated if 
a “leader” is dispensed with and the branches 
of the tree trained in such a manner that the 
upper ones are made to curve somewhat, so 
that instead of reaching the limit or top of 
t lie fence in a couple of seasons, as they would 
do under ordinary conditions, they would he 
extended both to the right and left of the 
centre of the tree for some 10 feet, or 12 feet. 
This would be u combination of the fan and 
horizontal methods of training. If carefully 
carried out, it answers well, and for the pur¬ 
pose select a tfee having an equal number of 
shoots—say, six. This will allow of three 
Iveing trained out on either side. Then, if the 
two lowermost shoots the one on the right 
and the same on the left- are laid or trained 
out at right angles from the stem, the next 
pair will merely require to be slightly curved 
towards their points, while- the remaining two 
must be curved or bent so that they will he 
quite 15 inches under or away from the top 
of the fence. Disposed in this way. there 
would be an abundance of training space be¬ 
tween the main branches for laying in the 
subsidiary branches and young bearing wood. 
The centre must, in this case, be filled in with 
wood of the latter description. (3) This would 
not answer for Apricots, but a Pear or 
Morello Cherry would succeed there. (4) 
This, again, is unsuitable for an Apricot, but 
would answer admirably for an espalier- 
trained Pear, such as Pitmaston Duchess. 
(5) Pitmaston or Doyennd du Comice.] 

Stunted Pear-trees.— What it the best tiling to 
do to a Pear-tree which, though to all appearance 
strong and well, neither makes much wood nor bears 
fruit? I have two which do this—one an Autumn 
Nelia on a south wall, and the other a Knight’s 
Monarch growing in the open as an espalier. Both 
trees are about five or six years old. and the Nelis 
was lifted last year. Soil loum, subsoil slatey clay.— 
C- 


[As your two Pear-trees have the same 
characteristics- little wood growth and no 
fruit—it seems as if the soil in which they are 
growing is too poor to produce either. 
Starved or stunted trees that seem to have 
poor roof action often have fruit-spur6 but too 
small and weak to produce fruit, even if pro¬ 
ducing flowers. Y(^wo^d^ do^wej^p en¬ 


deavour to stimulate the trees into stronger 
growtli by renewing the top soil 3 inches deep 
over the roots, giving to each of the tree-roots 
thus exposed half a pint of basic slag or bone- 
meal, then adding 3 inches of entirely fresh 
soil, and over that put a mulch or top-dress¬ 
ing of animal manure, doing thal at once. 
When growth begins, remove that mulch and 
give a fresh one. If you find the soil about 
the roots to bo very dry, after doing what is 
advised, give each tree several pails of water, 
and do so again two or three times during the 
winter, if open, dry weather prevails. A soak¬ 
ing of liquid-manure occasionally in the sum¬ 
mer should help the trees greatly.] 

Scale on Peach-tree — I am sending some leaves 
of! a Peach-tree in a greenhouse. Could you tell me 
how to get rid of the insects which are all over the 
leaves? I think there is also red-spider.—O. W. 

[We have seldom seen Peach-leaves so badly 
infested with scale. Brushing and scrubbing 
the trees with strong insecticides are both 
laborious and only partially effective, whereas 
the petroleum remedy, if persevered with, 
effectually clears the trees of this trouble¬ 
some pest. After the pruning is completed, 
the trees loosened somewhat, and the borders 
cleared of all rubbish, the woodwork and 
glass cleaned, and the walls whitewashed, 
syringe the trees freely with petroleum, soft- 
soap, and water, and if this soaks well into 
the border, good, rather than harm, will be 
done, especially if there was any black-fly 
on the trees. ’ Ileat the water to about 
120 degs., this condition being insisted upon 
if the remedy is to have a fair trial, and to 
every three gallons of this add a lump of soft- 
soap about the size of a hen’s egg and 6 oz. 
or three wineglassfuls of ordinary petroleum, 
or paraffin, as it is generally, but wrongly, 
termed. The oil must not be permitted to 
float on the surface of the receptacle, but 
should be kept mixed with the water, this 
being done either by returning every second 
syringeful (after the mixing has been accom- 
plisl, ed by means of the syringe) forcibly back 
into the receptacle, or else by keeping two 
syringes at work, one distributing and the 
other keeping the oil mixed with the water. 
This mixture should be used iu no half¬ 
hearted manner, it being of the greatest im¬ 
portance that every branch and shoot be 
thoroughly wetted by it. There is no neces¬ 
sity to syringe the trees after using the petro¬ 
leum mixture. If one application does not 
clean the trees, another should lie given. If 
the plants in the house are in as bad a con¬ 
dition as the leaves of the Peach-trees you 
send, we would advise you to put the whole 
lot on the fire-heap, and, having thoroughly 
cleaned and repainted the house, start with 
a fresh lot of plants.] 

Nectarine trees gumming -Three young Nec¬ 
tarine-trees 1 planted last Christmas iu a cool-house, 
and which have made a great deal of wood tills 
season, have “ gummed " in several places, mostly 
when they have come into close contact with the 
galvanised wire to which they are attached. Kindly 
say whether this is the real cause of the gumming, 
though this defect has occurred in a few' other places 
not actually in contact with wires. What had best 
he done to cure the gumming, if nature will not do 
It in due course? I have, of course, taken steps to 
cover the w ire in places, and propose later on to paint 
them.— Devon. 

[Galvanised wire is a fruitful source of 
gumming when the branches of fruit-trees are 
allowed to come into contact with it. When 
painted with two coats of white lead paint it 
is then harmless, and we advise you to thus 
deal with your wires at the earliest possible 
moment. Although contact with the crude 
zinc or spelter on the wires is responsible 
for much of the gumming you have to com¬ 
plain of, it is just possible that the trees are 
inclined to be over-luxuriant, and have made 
too much wood. The remedy for this is to 
partially lift the roots and lay them out 
afresh, which will afford the needful check. 
If any very strong or thong-like roots are 
found, cut them back to within some 4 feet 
or 5 feet of the stem, but be careful to save 
all fibrous roots met with when lifting. In 
regard to young trees, this lifting may be 
carried out to within a distance of 4 feet 
from the stems. The bearing of a good crop 
of fruit will sometimes right matters, but we 
prefer to afford a check to the root system iu 
the manner indicated above, this being a 
sure cure if properly carried out. Therefore, 
if this season’s wood is gross habited, and 


full of sap, lift the roots as we suggest without 
delay, and, when returning the soil excavated 
in this lifting, make it thoroughly firm by 
treading each layer repeatedly. A loose con¬ 
dition of the border soil encourages rank 
growth, while the reverse leads to the pro¬ 
duction of firm wood of medium strength 
only, which seldom fails to ripen satisfac¬ 
torily and produce good fruit.] 

Apples failing: (N. II. L.J.—( 1) In stating 
that a good shower or a copious watering im¬ 
proved the condition of the foliage of the 
Apple-trees in question, you furnish us with 
the clue as to why the leaves had a withered 
and unhealthy appearance, and there is not 
the slightest doubt but that the trees have 
been lacking moisture for some time past—in 
fact, ever since you planted them. That this 
is so occasions us no surprise, seeing that in 
addition to your soil being sandy, with a sub¬ 
soil of gravel, and capable of absorbing any 
quantity of water, you aggravated the evil 
by placing 6 inches of drainage beneath the 
roots of the trees ; and the only wonder is 
that they survived the hot, dry season of 1906. 
Your best plan, under the circumstances, is 
to lift the trees towards the latter end of 
October and lay them in by the heels provi¬ 
sionally. Then enlarge the holes so that they 
are not less than 5 feet in diameter and 3 feet 
in depth, and remove all the drainage 
material von placed therein. To the exca¬ 
vated soil add and mix, if you can possibly 
procure it, some turfv loam—the heavier the 
better—charred garden refuse, road scrap¬ 
ings, or even dry, pulverised clay would be 
better than nothing. All or any of the fore¬ 
going ingredients would serve to render the 
staple more retentive of moisture, it would 
also improve its fertility, and, in short, make 
it to conform more nearly to the cultural re¬ 
quirements of the Apple. By employing 
either or all of the ingredients named you 
would not require organic manure, but if the 
staple is of poor quality you may use bone- 
meal and 4-inch bones to enrich it with, a 
6 -inch potful of both to every barrow load of 
soil requisite for refilling each hole with 
being the right proportion to use in this ease. 
Examine the roots before replanting the trees, 
removing any dead or decaying portions 
found, and cut hack those broken during the 
process of lifting to where sound, when they 
will 6oon emit fibre. Mulch the surface when 
planting is completed, and again in the sum 
mer months, one good mulching sufficing for 
the season. In future, do not omit to water 
whenever climatic conditions render such a 
proceeding necessary, giving a sufficiency on 
every occasion to well moisten the whole of 
the soil in which the trees are planted. 
Diluted liquid-manure may also be given with 
distinct advantage when the tree,s are bear¬ 
ing. (2) The Red Astrachan Apple-tree is 
in the condition known to gardeners as being 
“hide-bound,” and not cankered. The bark 
has become tough and unyielding, owing 
either to a check or as a result of the tree 
having been unduly dry at the roots—the lat¬ 
ter, no doubt and then, when the wood be¬ 
gan to swell, the bark became ruptured in the 
manner described by you. The advice ten¬ 
dered you as to bark slitting is good, and to 
the point, and it would be wise to get a 
practical man to do this for you, and the re¬ 
planting also, in the event of your not feeling 
competent to do it yourself. Re-stake the 
trees when replanted, and keep them sup¬ 
ported until they become sufficiently well 
rooted to render such aid unnecessary. 

Pear-tree blooming for the third time in 
one year.-I think the enclosed three sprigs may in¬ 
terest vour readers. They were taken this morning 
from n Pear-tree in my garden close to the sea. This 
tree every year blooms twice, so that fruit and blos¬ 
som arc side by side; but this year, to my astonish¬ 
ment, it is flowering » third time, and the tree has 
now on it large Pears from first blooming, small ones 
from the second blooming, and now it is prettily 
sprinkled with fine blooms side by side with the early 
and later Pears. Is it not very unusual, and can you 
explain it-?—MRS. .1 ANNETTE Harding, North Cliff 
House. Bridlington Quay. 

“ The English Flower Garden and Home 

Grounds.’’— New Edition, 10th , revised, with descrip, 
tions of all the best plants, trees, and shrubs, their 
culture and arrangement, illustrated on %vood. Cloth , 
medium Svo, 15s.; post free, 15s. Od. 

“The English Flower Garden” may also be 
had finely bound in 2 vols., half vellum, nett. Of 

all booksellers LINOlS AT 





October 26, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


457 


ROSES. 

ROSE FL.OR1BUNDA (NOISETTE). 
The Noisette Roses to some extent supplied 
that profusion of blossom to Rose-gardens of 
bygone years that we are obtaining now from 
the Hybrid Teas, Chinas, and Polyanthna. 
The variety illustrated is a reminder of the 
old group which seems to be fast disappearing 
from our collections. It is a very free 
bloomer, and of a dainty fawn and rosy-fleeh 
shade of colour. The expanded flowers, each 
about 3 inches across, are of a pretty cupped 


become splendid features of any garden, large | 
or small. A hedge may be formed of lialf-a- ; 
dozen plants or it may consist of some 300 j 
plants where space is plentiful. 1 know of a 
hedge consisting of fully 300 plants of that 
gorgeous Rose Gruss an Teplitz, and just now 
it must be a picture ; but in two or three I 
years one can scarcely realise what its beauty | 
will be. The plants arc set out a yard apart, j 
so have ample space for development. Per- | 
haps in one sense Gruss an Teplitz is a little 
too straggling for hedge work, but this can be 
rectified by one or two strands of wire. 

There are many Roses which grow in a i 


Rambler, and many others. If any sort grows 
too strongly it is an easy matter to train the 
growths in a horizontal position, which 
favours a freer blossoming. A great point to 
remember is to start well with a deeply-dug 
border, planting a fair distance apart, eay, 
from 2 feet to 3 feet, cutting out some of the 
old wood each year, and mulching freely each 
winter with cow-manure. The first season 
the plants should be pruned but very slightly, 
then the following spring a few' of the growths 
may be cut to the ground. By this method 
we keep the base furnished with new wood. 

Rosa. 


ROSES FOR FORCING. 



Rose Florilmnrla. From a photograph in Messrs. W. Paul and Son's nursery at Waltham Cross. 


form, the petals slightly reflexed. As they are 
produced in such fine corymbs the effect is 
very pleasing. This Rose wilL send up fine 
tall shoots that, mark it out as being suitable 
for forming Rose-hedges ; and as a standard it 
makes a glorious head of blossom. The 
foliage is of that dark, almost blackish, green 
that gives such a splendid set-off to the blos¬ 
soms, and is in itself a very cheerful feature, 
especially when the Rose is employed as a 
hedge plant. 

1 think, generally speaking, more might be 
done in the way of planting Rose-hedges than 
is now the ease. Given a good position, and 
planted thinly in w'd^fraudicd soil, tfiey may 


■ll/trauchcd soil, tfiey n 

Go gle 


manner that fits them admirably to form 
medium hedges, such as from 3 feet to 5 feet 
in height. They are splendid when in full 
bloom. For moderate hedges one would de¬ 
sire continuous blooming kinds, and I can 
strongly recommend the following, in addition 
to the Rose illustrated, which was raised in 
M essrs. W. Paul and Son’s nurseries at Wal¬ 
tham Cross:—Allister Stella Gray, Gloire 
des Rcfiomanes, Stamvell Perpetual. Comtesse 
de Cayla, Mine. Laurette Messimy, Corallina, 
La Tosca, Gustave Regis, Frau Karl Drus- 
chki, Ulrich Brunner, Mine. Abel Chatcnay, 
Irene Watts, Marie Van Houtte, Boule cle 
Neige, Fcllenberg, Armosa, Longworth 


No time should be lost in preparing for 
a supply of winter-flowering Roses. 
There arc many excellent sorts suitable 
for the purpose. If the buttonhole 
flower be desired, there are splendid 
sorts available ; or if those superb, 
long-stemmed blooms are favoured, * 
then here, too, the selection is almost 
embarrassing. The ‘Rambler” Rose 
may find favour also where large con¬ 
servatories need tall, graceful flowering 
plants, and there can be no doubt us 
to the popularity of these, seeing the 
quantities annually disposed of. There¬ 
fore, whatever the form or style de¬ 
sired, the plants should be secured at 
once and partially dried off, so that the 
wood may be ripened thoroughly, and 
the roots somewhat rested, preparatory 
to starting the plants later on. Plants 
forced last season that were repotted 
in June for early blooming, should be 
brought under cover at once, and kept 
on the dry side for two or three weeks, 
then pruned. It is as well to allow a 
periocl of about twelve weeks between 
the pruning and the flowering, although, 
of course, when growth is fairly de¬ 
veloped, the plants may be brought 
along somewhat more quickly. The 
steady temperature will always give the 
best results. 

Plants repotted in September are 
usually kept outdoors until November, 
then placed in cold pits or anywhere 
away from frost. If primed in January, 
they blossom about April ; but if it be 
desired to keep the flowering period 
late, then the plants must be either 
pruned in October to flower in mid¬ 
winter and again in May, or kept en¬ 
tirely in cold pits, and pruned in 
February. 

It does not pay to keep old, worn-out 
pot Roses. Any such should be re¬ 
placed with good, healthy plants in 
7-inch or 8-incn pots, that are now pre¬ 
pared bv our large Rose-growers ready 
for forcing at once. If economy must 
be considered, the plants grown in 
5-inch pots will yield very fair blos¬ 
soms, especially if. when received, they 
are repotted into 6 inch pots, taking 
care not to disturb the roots more than 
can be helped. A few of the best for¬ 
cing Roses are: Catherine Mermet, 
"The Bride, "Kaiserin Augusta Vic¬ 
toria, General Jacqueminot, *Mme. 
Abel Chatenay, "Lady Battersea, "Lady 
Roberts, "Richmond, "Liberty. Caro¬ 
line Testout, Ulrich Brunner, Captain 
Hayward, La France, "Frau Karl 
Druschki, "Sunrise, Sunset, *Mmc. 
Hoste, "Paul Lede, "Joseph Hill, 
Antoine Rivoire, "Niphetos, Perle des 
Jardins, "Pharisaer. Those marked 
with an asterisk are good buttonhol * 
sorts; they also yield fine blossoms if 
allowed to develop. A few good “Ramblers ” 

! are the old crimson variety, also Philadelphia 
Rambler, which is richer in colour; Dorothy 
Perkins, Lady Gay, Blush Rambler, Hia¬ 
watha, and Tansendshon. Rosa. 


Pruning; Roses (climbers and fast growing 
kinds).—Amateurs are often perplexed as to 
the pruning of climbing Roses. This applies 
forcibly to those that have only a limited 
space. Most of the errors that are made is 
from leaving too much wood. There need not 
be any fear in pruning hard if the plants are 

UmVtKSITY Ur ILLINOIS AI 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 






453 


GARLENING ILLUSTRATED. 


October 26, 1907 


healthy. Many cut away the strong growths, 
allowing abundance of small growth. This 
should not be. The weak growth should be 
removed, retaining all the best and largest 
growths, provided they are ripe. This ap¬ 
plies to such as the Gloirc de Dijon family, 
Rove d’Or, Cheshiuit Hybrid, and all of this 
class, including Marcchal Kiel, and that sel¬ 
dom-seen kind, Lamarquc. Often one sees 
these on arches, etc., the shoots having been 
tied in from year to year tilL they are simply 
a bundle of growths. During the next four 
months these should have all the small 
growth removed, tying in thinly only the best. 
-Dorset. 

CLASSING ROSES. 

Will you please explain the ditFerence in Roses? 1 
notice some are marked H.I'., H.T., and T., and so on. 
—T. Yates. 

[Hybrid Perpetuals give us those large, 
deliciously fragrant blossoms and brilliant, 
rich-coloured reds, pinks, and whites which 
have become so well known. They have a 
very stiff habit of growth, thick shoots, and 
large foliage. Though termed Hybrid Per¬ 
petual, there are few of the true Hybrid Per- 
petuals that really deserve the appellation of 
“Perpetual,” the freest autumnnls closely 
allied to them being the Hybrid Teas, and, 
though the majority are sweetly fragrant, 
there are some notable exceptions, such as 
the many varieties of Baroness Rothschild 
and Victor Verdier. But of all the groups 
of the Rose these are the most suitable to the 
beginner, for they will thrive under conditions 
not particularly favourable to the Rose. To 
see them in their greatest beauty and magni¬ 
ficence they require rich clayey loam and 
plenty of liquid-manure during the growing 
season, also a free thinning of the shoots 
and buds. 

Tea-scented Roses are distinguished by 
the delicacy of their colours, slendeu growths, 
richly coloured and shiny foliage, and so 
free flowering ns to be our most perpetual- 
blooming Roses. In this tribe are found the 
delightful yellows, copper colours, and, in 
fact, almost every hue imaginable. Although 
some few are very fragrant, the majority have 
the odour of a newly-opened chest of Tea, 
hence their name “Tea Roses.” As a rule, 
the flowers are not so brilliant in colour and 
•so full as in the Hybrid Perpetual Roses, 
yet for bouquets or cut flowers they are far 
superior, and also last longer when cut—in 
fact, they improve in water, if kept in a cool 
place. In this tribe are found most of the 
charming bud Roses that arc so useful for 
button-holes or sprays. 

Hybrid Teas differ from Hybrid Pcr- 
petuals in their more perpetual blossoming, 
they being early as well as late. In some 
cases, such as in Captain Christy, Caroline 
Testout, etc., the distinction between the two 
groups is very small, but in the majority it is 
clearly defined. Most of the Hybrid' Teas 
have the branching trusses of blossom so 
characteristic of the Tea-scented group, and 
also the exquisite delicate colours, whereas 
in growth the crossing with the Hybrid Pcr- 
pctuals lias imparted- the stiff, erect habit. 
It is this trait, combined with a good Jong 
stem, that makes many Hybrid Teas so useful 
for cutting. As you doubtless are aware, Hy¬ 
brid Teas first originated by crossing the 
Hybrid Perpetual with the Tea-scented. La 
1‘ ranee was one of the first, but its raiser was 
quite ignorant ns to its origin. We are now 
receiving annually kinds resembling La France 
in various ways that, it is not difficult to be 
lieve in the hybrid nature of La France, 
probably with a Tea and a Monthly Rose. 
Caroline Testont has all the delicate colour¬ 
ing and refined beauty of a Tea Rose, but its 
growth is quite stout and stiff, like that of n 
Hybrid Perpetual, and its foliage large and 
leathery. Were it not that objection might 
be taken to the multiplying of groups, the 
Hybrid Teas eould well be divided into two 
groups— those having quality of blossom, 
suoh as Kaiserin Augusta Victoria, and those 
that approach the Monthly or Chinese Roses, 
inasmuch as they depend upon their profusion 
<»f small blossoms to render them effective in 
the garden or when out. The Ilvhrid Tea is 
certainly destined to be the race of the future. 
Most of our raisers ar^striving 
colours and fragrancc/quaLiiies h 

Digitizes! by VjOFtj 


ing. Until such arrive we shall be dependent 
upon the Hybrid Perpetuals for our crimson 
Roses. 

On preceding page you will find an article 
dealing with the forcing of Roses.] 

ROSE-SEED. 

The heps will now soon be ready to gather, 
and as soon as they are harvested they should 
be placed in layers in boxes of damp sand, 
in which they should remain during the win¬ 
ter. In the spring the succulent parts of the 
fruit will be found to have rotted off, and the 
contents of the boxes may be rubbed through 
the hands to separate the seeds, which should 
then be sow r n, sand and all. This will be 
found a much less tedious process when there 
is a large quantity of heps to deal with than 
cleaning out the seeds as soon as gathered, 
but if there are but few heps, it is best, per¬ 
haps, to remove their fleshy covering, and 
separate and sow the seeds at once. In this 
case the readiest method of proceeding is to 
cut off the top of the hep with a sharp knife, 
and to squeeze the lower part, when most of 
the lmrd little achencs packed together inside 
will come out all separated, and the then hol¬ 
lowed husk may just be slit down lengthwise, 
and laid open, in order that any individuals 
adhering to the inner side may be removed 
with the point of the knife. Even if there 
are a good many heps, it will be found that 
proceeding in this way does not take longer 
than the crushing or rubbing through a sieve 
sometimes recommended, because the time is 
saved that must then be occupied in removing 
the pulp and drying the seed, which, when 
once it has been all mixed up with the 
crushed husks, is very difficult to get dry and 
clean again. 

In any case, it is important to get the seed 
into sand or soil as soon as gathered, and 
then many seedlings will come up the follow¬ 
ing spring, a result equally well attained by 
either of the above methods. When the seed 
is sown in the open, it is best to sow rather 
thickly broadcast in beds about 3 feet wide, 
which arc all the better if surrounded by a 
good stout board on edge to prevent either 
soil or seed from being washed away, and 
upon which a short plank may at times be 
laid across to facilitate such operations as 
weeding, etc., among the seedlings, without 
trampling upon the beds should they be wet. 
Nevertheless, as soon as tlie seed is sown, the 
surface of the beds should be made firm, and 
wcrins, as far as possible, guarded against. 
If, when the seedlings conic up, they are 
found too much crowded- in certain spots in 
the beds, which rnay often arise from the seed 
being washed by ft storm of rain to the lowest 
point or into a hollow, they will bo found as 
amenable to transplantation as Cabbage 
plants, and should be carefully drawn out 
an 1 planted elsewhere in rows about 9 inches 
to 15 inches apart, according to their size. 
Some of those that conic up during the first 
summer will produce a flower sufficient to 
give some idea of their colour almost imme¬ 
diately, and as it is clear that these must be 
thoroughly perpetual, it is well to get in a 
bud or two on some stock as soon as possible, 
as they r will be almost certain to flower as 
maidens the following summer. At the same 
time the French raisers are inclined to hold 
that thes9 precocious bloomers are liable to 
be varieties lacking constitution, though this 
is not always the case. 

The greatest enemy of Rose seedlings is 
mildew', and as this seems absolutely unpre- 
veutible, the only thing to bo done is to keep 
the plants strong, so as to ensure their grow¬ 
ing through it. Now, the greatest trial to 
any seedling plants in a young state is exces¬ 
sive drought, a condition also highly favour¬ 
able to the development of mildew; the seed¬ 
beds, therefore, should face east, or be 
situated W'here they can be shaded after the 
morning, in order that the seedlings may not 
be baked by the trying afternoon sun in 
summer. 

The above remarks apply equally to Rose 
seeds and seedlings of garden varieties raised 
with a view to obtain novelties, and to 
those of common species raised in quan¬ 
tity for use as stocks, etc. In raising 
seedling Briers in considerable numbers 
for stocks, however, it is better to 
60 'v the seed in drills rather than broadcast, 


in order that, the hoe may be easily worked to 
destroy weeds, and to keep the surface of the 
ground open. From seed sown la6t autumn 
there will now be a considerable proportion 
of seedlings ready for transplantation j these 
should be carefully drawn out, with the least, 
possible disturbance of surrounding seeds 
that may not yet have germinated, and should 
be root-pruned and heeled in in some shel¬ 
tered spot until they can safely be planted out 
on a showery day in March, or even - April. 
If they were planted at once, they would be 
liable to be drawn out of the ground by the 
fronts in winter, whereby many of them 
might perish, and no time is lost by deferring 
their move into permanent quarters until 
spring, for they will be making roots all the 
while where they lie, and so eventually go 
out with a mass of active fibres, and grow’ 
away without check. 

li is very desirable that all Ruse-growers 
should endeavour to raise a few seedlings in 
addition to the usual cultivation of estab¬ 
lished varieties. When it is considered how- 
few really perfect Roses yet exist, it behoves 
all, amateurs especially, who have more 
leisure than the trade growers, and to whom 
is is of less importance to grow only what 
pays, to do their utmost to add to the still 
limited number of Roses that possess all the 
highest qualities. 


NOTES AND REPLIES . 

Rose Cabrielle Pierrette (Hybrid Tea).— 

This Rose should find its way.into every col¬ 
lection of any extent, mainly for its glowing 
colour and excellent growth. There is no 
doubt that it belongs to the Caroline Testout 
tribe, but the colour in autumn is almost as 
vivid in its rose-pink as in that fine noveltv, 
Farben Konigin. The flower of Gabrielle 
Pierrette has a rather ruffled arrangement cf 
the petals, differing from that of Caroline 
Testout, but an arrangement which, I think, 
adds to the charm of the flower. The petals 
are slightly refluxed, and the colour then 
pales on the extreme edges to almost white. 
This lovely Rose, together with Marie Croi- 
bicr, would make a fine bed of rose-pink, and 
if plants of the white sports or seedlings of 
Caroline Testout, such as Admiral Dewey. 
Irene, and Marguerite Guillot were inter - 
spersed, an effective bed would be the result. 
—Rosa. 

Rose Edu Meyer —Tlirre is something particu¬ 
larly attractive about this Rose, the colour reminding 
one much of thut of Sunrise, excepting that the terra 
colta tint is not so rich. It is a very useful garden 
Rose, and whenever seen is always much admired. 
A Rose that would blond well with it is Mme. Eugenic 
Roullet, which is less vigorous in growth. In plant¬ 
ing the two, Kdu Meyer should be placed in the back¬ 
ground or in the ccutre of the lied.—R osa. 

ROOM AND WINDOW. 

NOTES AND REPLIES. 
Long-stemmed flowers.— No matter how 
beautiful a flower may be, its popularity is 
sadly marred from u decorative point of view’ 
by having short footstalks, for such flowers 
can only be utilised if wired, and then they 
arc very short-lived. Even the commonest 
flowers, stu b as the Sunflowers, Michaelmas 
Daisies, Phloxes, Gladioli, and many others, 
are welcome if they can be cut with stems 
nearly a yard long. Among the annuals 
Sweet Sultan, Scabious, and Coreopsis 
owe a good deal of their popularity to 
the fact that the flowers can be cut with'long 
stems.—J. G., Gosport. 

Window gardening.— If any plant re¬ 
quires repotting, do it at once. Cutting6 just 
rooted might remain in the cutting pots till 
spring if not much pot-bound. Bulbs for 
flowering indoors should be obtained and 
potted. Many bulbs are grown in fibre now ; 
it is cleaner, and most bulbs do well in it, 
and nourishment can easily be given. 

Plants in the spare-room.— It is quite 
possible to keep such things as Pelargoniums 
and other plants of similar character in the 
spare-room. They should be arranged in the 
room before frost of a severe character comes, 
but all the ventilation possible should be 
given whilst, the weather is mild, and the 
watering should be done only when abso¬ 
lutely nej.-ess.aiy., and then in the morn in a 
with ilie Sindow open. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




October 26, 1907 GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 459 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 

THE HORSE CHESTNUTS 
(2E8CULUS hippocastanum). 

Tub Horso Chestnut i« of little use as a 
timber tree, but from its highly ornamental 
qualities it may be employed in various ways 
by the planter. A large, well-balanced tree 
forms a fine feature in lawn or park scenery, 
especially if just standing away from a back¬ 
ground of other trees. Again, where space is 
ample, it may be planted in a clump or group, 
and is, besides, sometimes employed for 
avenues, of which the historic one at Bushey 
Park is of world-wide reputation. To be 
seen at its best, the Horse Chestnut needs a 
well-drained open loam, as very stiff soils are 
not so congenial to it, aud where dry and 
gravelly, the foliage, even early in summer, 


j Alsculus rubicunda (the scarlet Chestnut), 

1 which is later in flowering than the common 
kind, and is, besides, easily distinguished by 
I its bright red blossoms. It is of dwarfer 
stature than the other, and forms a dense, 
roundish tree, thickly clothed with very deep 
1 green foliage. Aisculus rubicunda succeeds 
best under much the same conditions as are 
requisite for the common kind, but its more 
compact habit enables it to resist heavy 
winds better, and, being later in expanding, 
the flowers are not so liable to be injured by 
unfavourable weather. Besides the specific 
name of rubicunda, it is also known under 
that of carnea, but the former name is cer¬ 
tainly the more appropriate. There are 
several forms in cultivation, varying princi¬ 
pally in the colour of the blossoms, some 
having the flowers much more richly tinted 
than others, as in JE. purpurascens, in which 
the flowers are more freely produced and of a 


I stachyu).—Though one of the handsomest of 
all hardy shrubs, and one, too, which is in 
I full beauty when few others are in bloom, 
this Nortli American Chestnut is compara¬ 
tively seldom seen in this country. As a 
rule, it reaches a height of from 10 feet to 
15 feet, aud is, perhaps, best treated as a 
dwarfer subject, a number of the stems being 
cut away every year. A constant succession 
of strong shoots is thus secured, and these 
bear much finer flowers than those produced 
I by older branches. Loudon sums up the good 
qualities of this species as follows: “The 
shoots are slender, spreading, and rooting at 
the joints where they happen to rest on the 
I soil, with ascending extremities. The tree 
comes into flower about a month or six weeks 
later than the other Chestnuts, and continues 
flowering, in the case of large plants on moist 
soil, for three months or longer, forming one 
of the greatest floral ornaments of the ehrub- 



A group of the dwarf Horse Chestnut (^Esculus parviflora—syn. Pavia mncrostachya). 


is liable to become discoloured, unless the 
roots are within reach of a reserve of mois¬ 
ture. The roots where undisturbed-from the 
first, go down to a greater depth than those 
of many other trees. 

There are several varieties of the Horse 
Chestnut, but most of them are curiosities, 
and, as trees, are not equal to the ordinary 
form. The best is 

A£sculi!8 hippocastanum fl.-pl., the 
double-flowered Horse Chestnut, und which 
for some time after its introduction to 
this country was regarded as an over-rated 
subject. It is about a fortnight later in open¬ 
ing its blossoms than the ordinary kind, and 
consequently extends the blooming season, 
added to which, the double flowers retain 
their beauty longer than the single ones, while 
the absence of fruit, by which much litter is 
avoided, is an important^'-argument in its 
favour. Another beautiful ki/id|'s I £> * 


reddish tint. Apart from the other merits 
possessed by the scarlet Chestnut, it is also 
a good town tree, as may be often seen in the 
environs of London. 

.Esculus Pavia (the red Buckeye) is a 
handsome small tree, bearing bright red 
flowers in large, loose clusters in early sum¬ 
mer. Sometimes it reaches a height of from 
15 feet to 120 feet, but it is often only a shrub. 

.Esculus flava (the yellow Buckeye) some¬ 
times reaches a height of 40 feet. It has 
something of the habit of the red Buckeye, 
but has smoother leaves. The loose, erect 
clusters of dull yellow flowers are not very 
attractive. 

ESCULUS CALIFORNIO A , which in this 
country does not rise above shrub-height, has 
slender-stalked leaves, with broad leaflets, 
and in early summer produces dense, erect 
clusters of fragrant white or pinkish flowers. 

A? sc ULUS farviflora (syn. Pavia macro- 


berv at a season when very few trees or 
shrubs are in bloom. It has red leaf-stalks, 
glossy dark-green leaves, and long, paniculate 
racemes of white flowers, the long white fila¬ 
ments of which, surmounted by the red 
anthers, impart to them a fine fringed appear¬ 
ance. In various books, etc., this is found 
under the names of Pavia macrostachya, Es- 
eulu3 macrostachya, Pavia edulis, etc. It 
delights in a moist situation, or near water, 
and thrives well in a strong clay soil. T. 


NOTES AND BE PLIES. 

Cutting back Maples —I have two very hand¬ 
some variegated Maples, which are growing much too 
large. I am told that it will destroy them if I cut 
them back—I can only thin them. In fact, I am told 
I must not reduce their size by lopping off the tops 
of the branches. Is this correct?—O ld Subscriber. 

[You may safely-cut back your variegated 
Maples when they are quite dormant. It 









4 GO 


GARDENING ILLUSTR. IT ED. 


October 26 , 1907 


should not be delayed till the sap rises in 
early spring. It is not correct to say that 
this treatment will destroy them.] 

Treatment of climbers -Will you very kindly 
help me by saying, in your next issue, what is the 
proper treatment for the following climbers:—The. 
Bignonia, the Thladiantha, the Clianthus—whether 
hardy, what soil and aspect-, and, if not hardy, what 
to do in -the winter with them? Soil hero is heavy 
and rich, with day in parts; but, of course, the 
garden beds are worked up with manures of various 
sorts and ashes, and would be culled “ a good soil." 
If you will favour me with some advice as to the 
respective treatment in your columns,, perhaps you 
will head the paragraph •' Climbers ” or “ Treatment 
of climbers’-J. S. Bakewell, from hall, Charfleld, 
Gloucester. 

[The Tecomas (syn. Bignonia) are handsome 
and distinct climbing shrubs of much beauty 
of habit as well as of flower. They are not 
so often seen in our country as abroad, 
though well fitted for the southern and wes¬ 
tern parts, and, in the case of T. radicans, 
flowering well against walls far north of Lon¬ 
don. T. grandiflora is a Chinese plant, much 
more tender thau.T. radicans. and less com¬ 
mon. It is much showier when in bloom, 
the drooping flowers, of a bright orange-scar¬ 
let, coming in large clusters. Its foliage, too, 
is larger, but the plant rarely grows so vigor¬ 
ously in this country. It is handsome in 
bloom on a warm, sunny wall. T. radicans 
is a native of the North American States, and 
is an old gardeu favourite. Its long, wiry 
stems send out root# like Ivy, and cling to 
walls or any support. The foliage is grace¬ 
ful, and in late summer the shoots have showy 
clusters of scarlet and orange blossoms. 
There is a variety named major, with larger 
flowers of a paler tint, and more robust foli¬ 
age. A strong plant will run up and cover a 
wall 40 feet high. It is useful also for cover¬ 
ing arbours and pergolas. You will find an 
account of Clianthus puniceus and an illus¬ 
tration of its white variety in our issue of 
September 21st, page 389. Protection during 
the winter is necessary, except in the most 
favoured districts, such ns Devon and Corn ! 
wall. Thladiantha dubia is a handsome creep¬ 
ing perennial of the Gourd family, from 
North China and India, with long, climbing 
stems, bearing many bright yellow flowers. 
All the flowers on a plant are either male or 
female, so that- unless both sexes are planted 
no fruit is produced. When the female 
flowers are hand-fertilised, they set freely, 
and the egg-shaped fruits, each 2| inches 
long, are exceedingly handsome, green at 
first, changing to a bright scarlet. The pale 
green foliage is handsome, and the steins run 
to a length of many feet from a tuberous root, 
which can be lifted in the autumn after the 
plant has died down. It is hardy in light 
sandy soil, and in a sunny place, such as at 
the foot of a south wall, tlie roots may be 
left, as in such a position they are quite dry 
during the winter.] 

Two good Ceanothuses. If the preceding 
winter has not been unduly severe, the dif¬ 
ferent forms of Ceanothus make a good dis¬ 
play towards the latter part of the summer, 
at which time comparatively few’ hardy shrubs 
are in bloom. There is now in cultivation a 
great number of garden varieties, most of 
which have been raised on the continent. 
Among them is that extremely popular 
variety, Gloire d$ Versailles, which, though | 
distributed as long ago os 1869. is still one of 
the very best in its class. Out of the many 
newer forms that have come under my obser¬ 
vation are two very pleasing and distinct 
varieties. One of them, Albei t Pettet, I have 
seen described as the best of the rose coloured 
Ceanothuses, and certainly, as far as my ex¬ 
perience extends, it is entitled to that desig- j 
nation. The second. Indigo, has the colour of 
the blossoms well described by its varietal 
name, for the flowers are of a deeper blue 
than in any other form that I am acquainted 
with. Both these varieties arc somewhat 
shorter und stiffer in growth than the better- 
known Gloire de Versailles, and they ure 
seen to very great advantage when planted 
in a bed or group. On light warm soils they, 
in this wav. form a charming summer 
feature. X. 

Blue Hydrangeas In ymir hsne of Gardening 
for Septcmbtr I’M, •' I. I'.” a*ks for a way to make 
Hydrangea flow it4 him . I made them blue by 
putting a quantity of rusty nails at the roots. I 
did this successfully in itoulh America.-1# K. Irons. 

“"□loitBcdb, Google 


OUTDOOR PLANT8* 


HARDY FLOWER NOTES, 
j Gvpsophila pamculata fl.-pl.— When a 
man who grows exclusively for the trade dis¬ 
poses of 23,000 plants of a novelty in hardy 
flowers iu one season, and hns 30,000 pot and 
ground roots for disposal at the present time, 
one may safely predict that that particular 
plant will take a high place in English gar¬ 
dens. If in this case the improvement, con¬ 
sisted in the doubling of the flowers merely, 
1 should think that there would be no im¬ 
provement whatever, for, to my taste, many 
of the typical forms of our hardy flowers are 
more pleasing than the double forms to 
which they have under. culture given birth. 
In the case of this double-flowered Gvpso- 
pliila the doubling is accompanied by an in¬ 
creased purity that raises the value of this 
hardy flower at least- 200 per cent. ; in fact. I 
do not see how any trade grower who has a 
sale for cut bloom can do without it. For 
wreath and cross making it will be found in¬ 
valuable, and I am of opinion that it will 
eventually Ih: grown under glass for early 
bloom. So far as 1 am able to judge, it is as 
vigorous as the type. 

Helianthemums. In a sunburnt garden, 
where the soil rapidly parts with moisture, 
these are of much use. They are capable of 
bearing a great amount of dry weather, and 
are happiest in rather light soils well above 
the ordinary ground level. The colours are 
so varied, embracing white, shades of yellow, 
buff, pink, and scarlet, both double and 
single, that a collection of them growing 
under happy conditions forms ail effective and 
very pleasant garden picture. There is one 
thing about these Helianthemums, or Sun 
Roses, as they have been named, that especi¬ 
ally recommends them to the owners of gar¬ 
dens who desire to economise labour, and 
have, perhaps, u considerable area to furnish. 
Once well established, they do not need re¬ 
newing for years. They yield a fine display 
of bloom in the summer season, and they 
eover the ground so densely with their ever¬ 
green foliage that it is almost impossible for 
even the eoarsest weeds to live with them. 
Campanula macrantha alba.— One may 
row r a hardy flower for some years without 
aving realised its true decorative worth. 
This may be owing to indifferent culture or 
unsuitable environment. Sometimes quite 
accidentally a plant 'finds ideal conditions 
which enable the grower to fully realise its 
true worth and beauty. Bv chance a plant of 
this Bellflower came into a position where 
,it got well fed and had ample space. The 
result was instructive, for the flower-stems 
ran up to a height of 3] feet, and the flowers 
were larger in proportion. Grown iu this 
way. Campanula macrantha is a very fine 
thing. In light, impoverished soils it cer¬ 
tainly does not impress one with its value. 

Galega officinalis.— The value of this 
for cutting is enhanced by the fact that, if 
the stems are not allowed to become too old 
before cutting, they will produce a second 
crop of bloom, more or less freely, according 
to the amount of moisture in the ground. 
The varieties compacta and compaeta alba 
are superior in colour to the type, and, owing 
to the flower-spikes being set closer together, 
they are more effective. To see them nt their 
best they should he planted in front of ever¬ 
greens, and allowed ample space. T have 
seen them under these conditions some 8 feet 
high by 6 feet through, and a very fine ap¬ 
pearance they made. They may safely be 
used in the wild or woodland garden, for, if 
cared for the first year or two. they gain such 
strength that they are capable of mastering 
almost any kind of Grass or weed. 

J. Corn hill. 

Winter Irises How seldom. in speaking of 
Irises, one thinks of any other than those that bloom 
in the summer. What of the winter-flowering Irises, 
of which reticulata is one of our sweetest examples? 
We may have this in bloom in February and March 
in a cold frame by potting the bulbs now, or, if a 
frame cannot be spared, they will come early on a 
sheltered border. I reticulata has deep blue blos¬ 
soms. very sweetly scented, and on this account is 
well worth taking in hand. It does best if the bulbs 
are planted in light soil, and now is the time when 
they should In* got in; but I would urge upon those 
who can give them frame-room, to do ?u.—W ood- 
BAST WICK. 


COREOPSIS. 

Very few genera of hardy plants are more 
popular than the above, or more serviceable 
in the cut state or valuable from the decora¬ 
tive standpoint in the garden. Embracing, 
as in this case, species and varieties of peren¬ 
nial and annual duration, a greater value 
attaches to them by reason of their adapta¬ 
bility to almost all classes of garden soils, and 
to their cultural requirements, which are 
simple in the extreme. In all probability, the 
perennial species of the genus share with the 
Shirley and other Poppies that ulmost uni¬ 
versal popularity in the early summer time 
which is responsible for their appearance in 
not- a few of the cut flower arrangements seen 
at local and suburban shows. Then, again, 
the florist and the market grower of hardy cut 
flowers do much to bring such easily grown 
subjects into prominence by cultivating them 
largely and bringing them into our leading 
markets in such great quantities. For this 
latter purpose the pereuuiul kinds are mostly 
grown, or, rather, those sorts such as C*. 
grandiflora or C. g. superba, which, by their 
greater freedom of growtli and flowering, 
have done much either to displace or super¬ 
sede that fine old perennial species, C. 
laneeolata. Those first named have greater 
claims to the biennial section of these plants, 
and, for all practical purposes, are best «o 
regarded and treated, though it is equally 
true that the plants may be raised from 
seeds and flowered in the same year. In 
those instances, however, where the plants are 
specialised and grown in large numbers, the 
system of raising the seedlings in, say, 1907, 
and flowering them in 1908, has much to com¬ 
mend it. By so doing large, bushy plants art' 
produced during tho summer months, and 
these, producing whole sheaves of the golden- 
yellow blossoms in the early summer follow¬ 
ing, are of much value. For this special pur¬ 
pose the seeds may be sown in April, and the 
young plants put out in the open ground so 
soon as ready. If, on the other hand, there 
is a demand for such flowers continuously, 
the flowering season may be greatly prolonged 
by sowing seeds of the plants in spring and 
again in late summer or early autumn. The 
seedlings resulting from the last-named sow¬ 
ing should not be permitted to flower in tho 
early summer, and by discouraging such 
flowering a good succession of bloom will be 
available when the earlier batch has ceased 
to produce the best blooms. A January 
sowing, too, will also provide a good supply 
of late summer flowers, while pot grow n 
examples from the same batch of seedlings will 
be found of use when the early frosts havo 
taken many things from the open garden. 
Thus it will be seen that these plants are per¬ 
fectly amenable to cultivation, and that 
special requirements may be met iu a very 
simple way. Of the value of these things in 
the cut state it is hardly necessary to say any¬ 
thing. ns the plants ure so well known. Points 
of importance or of merit include the rich 
golden-yellow colour of the flowers, and the 
very considerable length of stem available 
with each flower head. In the older kind. C. 
laneeolata, the flower-stem is still longer, be¬ 
cause lacking the branching habit of the other 
kinds named. Hence, stems of nearly 2 feet 
long are the result. This kind produces seeds 
freely, and may be increased by cuttings and 
by division. Iu some clay soils the plant is 
not happy, and neither seedlings nor cuttings 
take kindly'thereto. 

All the annual species and their varieties 
are, of course, easily raised from seeds; and, 
in the ease of light soils, the seeds may be 
sown in the open ground. Where the soil is 
of a clayey nature, the raising of the seedling 
plants in boxes or pans, subsequently trans¬ 
ferring them to their flowering quarters, has 
much to commend it. Early seed-sowing, 
with timely thinning or transplanting of the 
seedlings, are matters not to be overlooked, 
if the best results are desired, while for pre 
ference a moderately light and well-drained 
soil is the best. The following are among the 
more distinct of the group : — 

C. AURICUI.ATA. A slender grow tug kind, 
with yellow flower-heads, the base of tho 
petal* coloured a brownish line; height, 

1 \ feet. A very old plant in cultivation. 

c. CGRONATA. —Flower liead orange, spotted 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


October 26, 1907 


CARD EWING ILL USTEAT ED. 


461 




with crimson. A large-flowered form of this 
has rich yellow flowers. 

C. Drummondi. —Plant of dwarf, bushy 
habit, and great freedom of flowering. Flower- 
heads yellow, the disc being encircled by a 


any amateur, by reason of the great profusion 
of blossoms they afford. North America. 

C. vekticillata (syn. teuuifolia).— A slen¬ 
der. erect-growing species from the United 
States of America. The plant is rather more 


Dyer’s Tick-seed. From a photograph by Mr. C. Jones, Bourne, Lincoln. 


ring of crimson brown. Native of Texas. A 
good annual, of easy culture, and free growth. 

C. Engelmanm. This, bearing yellow 
flower-heads and golden centre, is a graceful 
plant with Fennel-like leaves. 

C. GRANDIFLORA. —An excellent border 
plant, whether intended for out flowers or for 
decoration. Presumably a perennial in its 
native habitat, it is, in cultivation, in this 
country at least, best regarded as a biennial ; 
height, 3 feet or rather more. The rich yd 
low flowers arc of large size. C. g. superba 
has flowers of a soft yellow ton* 1 . 

C. GRANT I.—This recently introduced and 
very distinct species from Uganda, forms a 
somewhat erect bush of sub-shrubby char¬ 
acter and with elegant bipinnate leaves, and 
bears a profusion of rich yellow flowers. It is 
not hardy, but may be flowered in the open in 
summer or grown in pots for the greenhouse, 
where it blooms in winter and spring. A most 
continuous bloomer. 

C. lanceolata. —A very old and well 
known plant. The flower-heads are rich 
yellow, and the long, wiry stems of much 
value when the flowers are employed in the 
cut state. Perennial, 2£ feet high. A capital 
border plant. North America. 

C. r.vLMATA. —Has finely divided leafage 
and golden-yellow blossoms of moderate size. 
North America. 

C. kosea. —A dwarf growing species with 
small blossoms, coloured pale rose or pink, 
on a bush rather more than 1 foot nigh. 
Annual, or possibly biennial. North America. 

C. Stillmanm. —Growing 1 foot high, 
has golden-yellow’ flowers. Coining from the 
Hierra Nevada, it requires a warm and sunny 
position. 

C. tinctoria. —A well-known annual with 
pinnate leaves and flower-heads coloured a 
rich yellow, with crimson-brown blotches at 
the base of the petals. This coloured area is 
a variable quantity, and differences may be 
seen occasionally on the same plant. It is a 
slender-growing plant of much beauty and 
utility ; neight, 2.J feet. C. t. nana is a dwarf 
form, and C. t. atropurpurca, which is also 
known as astrosanguinea, a distinct and beau¬ 
tiful variety 2£ feet high, has richly-coloured 
blossoms. The three forms of this plant 
here men^ned are worthy 


others of value in the garden, and among the 
annual kinds those of the bicolor and Tom 
Thumb cLass call for mention. A variety of 
I Tom Thumb, known as Crimson King, forms 
a perfect- bush of about 7 inches or 8 inches 
| high. C. bicolor grandiflora is rich yellow with 
maroon-scarlet centre. C. nigra nana has rich 
1 crimson flowers, the plant less than 1 foot 
high. C. eardaminifolia is a variable plant, 

| growing from 9 inches to 2 feet high. The 
I type has yellow flower-heads. The lower por¬ 
tion of the ray florets is coloured a brownish 
hue. A dwarf form of this plant, growing 
18 inches high, has rich crimson-coloured 
, blossoms. E. J. 

NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Bulbs for garden.—I shall be glad if you will 
inform me as to the best method of planting the fol- 
i lowing:—100 mixed Hyacinths, 100 double Tulips 
(mixed), 50 double Daffodils, 50 Narcissi Trumpet- 
, 100 Snowdrops, and 50 Crocuses (yellow), in beds 
I as per plan enclosed, to ensure a succession of 
bloom in each bed? If bulbs insutflcient, have Wall¬ 
flower and white Arabia.—M. F. 

[The number and variety of bulbs you men- 
I tion are quite inadequate for filling the beds 
i and borders shown on sketch, also to afford 
such a display as you desire. We will, how¬ 
ever, assist you to the best of our ability, and, 
taking the round bed in the centre of the 
j Grass plot first, we advise it be planted with 
mixed Hyacinths, 6 inches apart, carpeting 
the surface with white Arabia. A pretty 
edging for this bed would have been either 
Chionodoxa Lucilire or Scilla sibiriea. As it 
is, you may plant your yellow Crocuses round 
the margin, as these will flower in advance 
of the Hyacinths. In the half-circular bed 
near the house, plant the double Tulips 
4 inches apart, and edge it with Snowdrops. 

I A pretty carpeting for this bed would be Myo- 
sotis dissitiflorn, and if you have not got- 
them, the few plants required could be pur¬ 
chased for a small sum. The remainder of 
the Hyacinths and Tulips you may use in con¬ 
junction with the Daffodils for planting in 
the borders, but as the numbers are so few 
we cannot formulate any schemp for this pur¬ 
pose, and the only thing you can do is to 
divide the number as equally 


than 1 fool high, stems wiry and thin, and 
furnished at intervals with linear leaves 

arranged in whorls. The yellow blossoms are divide the number as equally as you can 
small in size and less attractive than in some among the four borders, and plant them in 
kinds. It is a true perennial, and one better smalL groups. If you have sufficient plants 


Coreopsis grandiflora. 


suited to a warm soil or a sunny position in 
the rock garden. It is easily raised from 
seeds, and better increased by these means 
rather than by division of the tufts. 

Apart from the above, there are many 


to do so, form an edging to the borders with 
the white Arabis, and then fill the interven¬ 
ing spaces between the groups of bulbs with 
the Wallflowers. With the amount of border 
space- yiu have-at your command, you could 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 









462 


GARDENING ILL USTR. DIED. 


October 26, 1907 


easily have accommodated ten times as many ! 
bulbs as you have. The quantity of 
Grass-seed required for sowing 267 square 
vards is, if von wish for a really good sward, 
16 lb. to 20 lb.] 

Clematis Duchess of Edinburgh (L. J. 

Toyt and Gcrrard ).- Your Clematis, pro¬ 
vided it is correctly named, belongs to the 
Florida section, in which case only the weak, 
straggling, and overcrowded branches should 
be removed, doing this in February or March. 
The strong, one-year-old wood should be 
nailed in as far as it has become well ripened, 
beyond which it may be cut away, filling in 
all the vacant spaces with that which is left. 
Only in the case of the forms of Clematis 
that flower on the young or summer shoots 
should cutting down every autumn he carried 
out. It is always well to mulch the surface 
of the soil in which Clematises are growing 
with some well-decayed manure, watering 
freely when the weather is dry, with an occa¬ 
sional dose of liquid-manure. 

INDOOR PLANT8. 

GREENHOUSE PLANTS IN FLOWER. 
When a greenhouse has to be kept gay 
throughout the year, one of the slackest I 
periods is after the bulk of the summer- 
flowering plants is over, and before the ad¬ 
vent of the general body of Chrysanthemums. 
True, there are varieties of these last that 
may be had in bloom by the month of Sep¬ 
tember, but at that- time they are flowering 
in the open border, and for this reason are 
by some not appreciated under glass. Still, 
apart from Chrysanthemums, there are many 
greenhouse plants that flower in the early 
autumn, for during the second week in Octo¬ 
ber the following, among others, were noted 
in No. 4 greenhouse at Kew among the hard- 
wooded plants : Acacia platyptera, a species 
with curiously-winged stems and golden-yel¬ 
low blossoms ; Callistemon salignus, the well- 
known scarlet. Bottle-Brush plant; Erica 
eaffra, Erica Kyemalis, and E. nielanthera. not 
quite at their best j Polygala myrtifolia 
grandiflora. with clusters of purple flowers, 
in shape suggesting u member of the Pea 
family; Platytlieea galioides. also known as 
Tremandra vcrticillata. and Tetratheea ver- 
ticillata. Among the Begonias were : B. coc- 
einea, a large, bold plant, with bright red 
blossoms; B. Corbeille de Feu, a freely 
branched, bushy kind, with scarlet, flowers; 
B. Dregei. with a profusion of white flowers, 
and remarkable as being one of the parents 
(B. socotrana is the other) of Gloire de Lor¬ 
raine ; B. fuchsioides, a well-known kind, 
with bright red blossoms; B. Luzeana, a 
strong-growing hybrid, with large, drooping 
clusters of rosy-red flowers; B. metallica, 
generally regarded as a fine foliaged plant, 
but the freely-borne blush-coloured flowers 
are very handsome ; B. semperflorens gigantea 
rosea, well-known as a spring-flowering sub¬ 
ject, but not often seen in good condition in 
the autumn. All of the above are fibrous- 
rooted varieties, and, in addition to these, 
there was a group of the pretty little 
tuberous-rooted B. Davisii, whose bright, 
vermilion-coloured flowers have left their 
mark on so many varieties of the present 
day. 

Other plants in flower were Angelonia sali- 
carijefolia (syn. A. grandiflora), figured in 
the number of Gardening Illustrated for 
August 10th la«t ; Angelonia salicarimfoliu 
alba, a white counterpart, of the precluding; 
Bouvardias; Browallia speokv*a major, whose 
pretty purplish-blue flowers are borne nearly 
throughout the year; Cannas, in variety; Cal¬ 
ceolaria Burbidgei, very popular in the Lon¬ 
don parks, and equally valuable during the 
winter for greenhouse decoration; Chironia 
linioides («yn. C. ixifera), a very pretty pink- 
flowered plant, which is now extensively 
grown for decoration; Cockscombs; Eupa 
torium Purpusi montieola. better known as 
Eupatorium petiolarc, under which name it is 
grown by many for winter blooming; Im- 
patiens Olivieri; Jacobinia (Sericographis) 
Ghiesbreghtii, whose scarlet, tubular-shaped 
flowers are, in a warm greenhouse, kept up 
throughout the winter; Nieotiana hybrids, 
of which w e have jxrtwa great variety ; Pelar¬ 
gonium. cl-»«i'>!»:* Z^ml. 1-a very 


attractive salmon-coloured flower; Pcri- 
strophe (Justicia) speciosa, which bears a 
great profusion for months together of pretty 
purple flowers; Ruchea (Crassula) falcata, 
with closely-packed heads of small scarlet 
blossoms; Salvia azurea grandiflora (syn. H. 
Pitcherii), bearing long spikes of charming 
blue flowers; Sparmannia africana; Strepto- 
carpiuf in variety; Teeoma Smithi, with ter¬ 
minal clusters of deep orange coloured 
flowers; Vallota purpurea magnified, a parti¬ 
cularly fine form of the Scarborough Lily, 
with rounder and brighter-coloured flowers 
than those of the typical kind and Veronicas 
of tho shrubbv section, of which there are now 
several beautiful varieties. G. S. C. 


TROP.EOLCM TRICOLOR. 
Introduced from Chili in 1828, this tuber¬ 
ous rooted Tropieoluni was, in my young days, 
an exceedingly popular greenhouse plant. It 
is now very rarely met with, probably to a 
great extent ow ing to tlic fact that particular 
care is needed in its cultivation, as under a 
haphazard system of culture it will soon fall 
into ill health. This Tropseolum starts natu¬ 
rally into growth in the autumn, continues 
to grow throughout the winter, and flowers in 
the spring and early summer months. After 
the blossoms are over, the sterna die down, 
when the pots must be stood in a cool, dry 
place. In autumn the tubers must be shaken 
quite clear of the old soil and repotted in a 
fairly light compost, such as equal parts of 
loam* and leaf-mould, with about half a part 
of sand and a little dried cow-manure. The 
size of the pot will, of course, depend upon 
tho tubers; but unless they are either very- 
large or small, pots 6 inches in diameter are 
very suitable. It is necessary that the pots 
be quite clean and effectually drained. Very 
little water must be given till the new growth 
appears above ground, when it may be in¬ 
creased, but in all stages watering must be 
carefully carried out. The new shoots are at 
first almost thread like, and lengthen rapidly, 
at which time especial care must be taken, 
otherw ise they will form a tangled mass which 
it is almost impossible to untwine. The old 
way wusS to tram the shoots either over a fan 
or balloon-shaped trellis, but a les^ formal 
plan is to stick a small Larch-top, well fur¬ 
nished with twigs, into the pot, and allow the 
slender shocks to ramble over this. A good 
light position in the greenhouse is a very suit¬ 
able place for them. As the puls get well fur¬ 
nished with roots in early spring, a little 
weak liquid manure w ill be very helpful. The 
principal insect pests to guard against arc 
aphides or green-fly. but they can be readily 
destroyed by vaporising. One caution is par¬ 
ticularly necessary, ami that is to keep a 
sharp look-out for slugs, especially just as 
the young shoots appear above ground, as 
these pests are very partial to the tender, suc¬ 
culent morsels. In colour the flowers of 
Tropteolum tricolor are orange-scarlet, tipped 
with black. A second Chilian species is Tro- 
panduni azurcum, which is even less fre¬ 
quently met with than the preceding. It 

needs much the same treatment, and flowers 
at about the same time. The colour of the 
blossoms is a pleasing and distinct shade of 
azure-blue. X. 

BOUVARDIAS IN THE GREENHOUSE. 
Throughout the autumn and early winter 
months the different Bouvardias are ex¬ 
tremely useful in the greenhouse, as they 

form a pleasing succession t<> many of the 
summer flowering subjects which are then 
past. Added to this their flowers are, when 
cut, just the thing for button-holes, sprays, 
etc.—at least, they used to be considered so, 
but nowadays, when size is regarded ns 
everything, the largest Carnation available is 
considered an ideal bnlton hole flower. 

Home of the market growers cultivate Bou 
vardias on a large scale, their practice being 
to rest the old plants a little after they have 
done flowering. Then, early in the year, 
they are taken into a warmer structure, with 
the result that young, succulent shoots are 
pushed out freelv. These shoots, when about 
a couple of inches long, are taken off and 
dibbled into pots of sandy soil. They are 
then placed in a close propagating case in an 
intermediate temperature, where they will 


soon root. When this takes place, they must 
be inured to the ordinary atmosphere of the 
house, and in a few days be potted singly into 
3-inch pots. A compost made up of equal 
parts of loam and leaf mould, with a good 
sprinkling of silver-sand, will suit them well. 
Directly the roots take hold of the new soil 
the tops of the young plants must be pinched 
out in order to ensure a bushy habit of 
growth. As the summer goes on the plants 
may lx? either kept in a greenhouse or stood 
in a frame, as the temperature of the outside 
air will be sufficient for them. Previous to 
this they will have been shifted into their 
flowering pots. 5 inches in diameter, and also, 
if necessary, stopped a second time. When 
the pots are well filled with roots a dose of 
liquid manure about once a fortnight will be 
beneficial. One drawback to the culture of 
Bouvardias within the London district i« that 
the sulphur laden fogs experienced during 
the autumn and winter burn up the foliage in 
a very short time. Some of the best varieties 
are : — 

Single. Bridal Wreath, white; Dazzler. 
scarlet; Humboldti corynibiflora. pure white 
long tube has the fragrance of the Jasmine ; 
King of the Scarlets, very large scarlet flower 
with white centre ; Mrs. Robert Green, pink : 
President Cleveland, vivid pear let, with a 
crimson tube; Priorv Beauty, rose-pink; 
The Bride, blush ; and Vreelandi, white. 

Double flowers. Alfred Neuner, white ; 
Bridesmaid, pink ; Hogarth flore-pleno. scar¬ 
let ; President Garfield, pink, quite distinct 
from Bridesmaid. X. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Calathea (Maranta) zebrina.—1 am anxious to 

know the name of the plant, a leaf of which I send, 
and any information as to soil, temperature, and 
general treatment of the plant will he valued. The 
plant seems to bo an old one, with several long 
leaves. Is it supposed to flower?—W yesidk. 

[The name of the enclosed specimen is 
Calathea zebrina, far better known in gar¬ 
dens as Maranta zebrina. It is a native of 
Brazil, and was introduced therefrom in 1815. 
As may be supposed from its native country, 
it requires the temperature of a stove for its 
successful culture. If the plant needs re¬ 
potting, this operation should be carried out 
in early spring, a light, open compost being 
very necessary. A mixture of equal parts of 
peat, loam, leaf-mould, and sand is very 
necessary for all the Calatheas. It must bu 
in a rough, lumpy state, as the roots then run 
therein with considerable freedom. The 
drainage, too, must be ample, as Calatheas 
need copious supplies of water at the roots 
when growing freely, and they also delight iu 
a lilieral amount of atmospheric moisture. 
The plant in question certainly flowers, but 
the blossoms, borne in a crowded head sup¬ 
ported by a comparatively short stalk, are 
not at all showy, and add little, if at all. to 
the ornamental qualities of the plant. When 
well grown, it has very handsome foliage, and 
some years ago. when plants with handsome 
leaves were more popular than they are now, 
it used to be frequently exhibited.] 

Oleander not flowering.— Thanks for the reply 
re “ Oleander not flowering,” contained In your Issue 
of October 5t.h, p. 427. The cause ts evidently due to 
the want of sufficient sunshine to ripen the wood, but 
there i* any amount of the latter, strong and healthy, 
too, with any number of flowering shoots, of which 
the enclosed is a specimen. You will notice how the 
buds have dropped olf. I should be glad of gome 
further expression of opinion, if you can spare the 
space. As the plant has never been put out-of-doors, 
by reason of its being In an indoor border in the 
greenhouse, would it not be well to move it into a 
large pot. either now or in the early spring, and give 
it all potoiblc bun? It has never been short of water 
and weak manure water, but the border referred to 
has an easterly aspect.— Montagu Higginson. 

[Your second communication puts the mat¬ 
ter in a somewhat puzzling light, for al¬ 
lhough causes of the dropping of tho buds often 
come under our notice, they may usually be 
traced to a starved state of the roots, while 
insufficient sunshine generally results in a 
total absence of flowers. We think your sug 
gestion of putting it into a pot a good one, 
as it then can be placed where it lias the bene¬ 
fit of direct sunshine. The best time to carry 
this out is in early spring. Of course, effec¬ 
tive drainage must be insured, as copious sup- 
I lies of water during the summer are very 
necessary, yet. at-the some tiniestagnant 
' moisture is decidedly injurious.] 



October 26, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


463 


FERNS. 

ONYCH1UM8. 

Up to the present time two species only be¬ 
longing to this genus have been introduced 
to cultivation, noth extremely elegant and 
possessing some useful qualities. Their 
fronds are so finely cut and of so lovely a 
green, that they are well adapted for mixing 
with cut flower 1 *. Although somewhat similar 
in general aspect, their habits are entirely 
distinct, a character which, in this case, can¬ 
not possibly he attributed to different hahi 
tats. While O. auratiim produces its hand 
somely decompound fronds from a single 
crown, thus forming a sort of miniature 
I’teris treuiula with finely cut fronds, O. 
japonic um, on the contrary, produces them 
from numerous underground rhi¬ 
zomes, making thick tufts id 
graceful and pleasingly coloured 
foliage, green on both sides; 
whereas that of tin* former 
species, when in a fertile state, is 
of a beautiful golden colour 
underneath, which gi\es it unite 
the ap|>euraucc of a gold Fern. 

That colouring, however, is not as 
in Gv miiogranima and Nothoch- 
lieua, due to the presence of pow ¬ 
der ; it is simply the iudusium, 
which is of a bright, rich, golden 
hue. and gives the whole plant a 
lovely appearance. It is not in 
habit only that these two species 
differ, for the treatment which 
they require is also dissimilar. 

While O. japonic-uiu will thrive 
well in a eooL house, and, ill fact, 
will not stand stove treatment, 
where it soon becomes attacked by 
thrips, <>. auratum must have a 
stove, or, at least, an intermedi¬ 
ate-house all the year round. The 
same compost, however, suits 
them both—viz., a mixture of 
fibrous loam, peat, or leaf-mould, 
and tdlvcr-snnd in about equal 
proportions. Both should be pot¬ 
ted loosely, as they have a great 
aversion to hard soil at any time. 

Care must be taken also to ensure 
their fronds being kept dry at all 
seasons, as if allowed to get wet 
they soon turn of a darkish brown 
colour and begin to decay. O. 
japonic urn is easily piopngated 
either hv spores, which germi- 
liato freely, or by division, but 
the same cannot )>e said of O. 
auratum. which, no doubt, would 
he equally popular if its propaga¬ 
tion were more rapid ; the fact of 
it* forming only single crowns 
prevents it from being itu-reased 
by division ; therefore, the only 
mode of dealing effectually with 
this handsome species is by*means 
of seedlings, which come up freely 
enough, but which have a ten¬ 
dency to damp off just above 
ground when iu a voting state. 

O. Ai;RATI'M . —This lovely stove 
Fern, a thoroughly evergreen 
species, is a native of the Malay 
Islands ; it is also found wild oil 
the Nilgiris, where it grows abun¬ 
dantly, and on the Paulghaut 
Mountains, where, however, it is not so 
plentiful. In this species the fertile and 
barren fronds are quite different, the former 
being much more finely divided than the 
latter. It is usually distinguished at first 
sight by its very narrow segments. The upper 
part, of both kinds of fronds is of a dark, 
glossy green, mid very attractive. In potting 
or planting this species the utmost care 
should bo taken to keep the crown well above 
the surface of the soil, which must be 
thoroughly well drained. 

n. japomcum jo. lucidum). This species, 
by far the commoner of the two, though, per 
haps, not the handsomer, is much more use 
ful than the preceding, on account of its 
being of much freer growth and having its 
fronds shorter, but in a greater abundance. 
These, however, are of a~<i£mi-deciduot|g char- 
8f ,rl although 'j Q^tSl'y 


a cool one, coming as it does from Japan, 
Nepaul. Simla. Khasya, etc., where it 
generally found at an elevation of 6,000 feet 
to 7,500 feet; Btill, if not kept in au inter¬ 
mediate-house during the winter mouths, it 
is apt to lose its foliage, in which case it 
usually starts up very strong in the spring. 

yOTES AXD REPLIES. 

Ferns In small pots.— These have of laic 
i years been iu great demand for indoor de 
coration. I find that there is nothing to 
equal Pteris scrrulata and the many erected 
forms of this popular Fern. It may be 
grown to a large' plant, and kept- for a long 
time in a very small pot. 1 shake them out 
of the soil they have grown in. and use when 
repotting some' very finely-sifted noil, into 



Oiiychiuui japonicum. 


which a little artificial manure has been 
worked, as this promotes a rapid and healthy 
growth of the fronds. They should never be 
allowed to become drv. Seedlings of these 
useful Ferns should be raised m quantity 
where much of this kind of decoration is car¬ 
ried on, a* the plants soon lose their fresh¬ 
ness. am! it- is easier to raise healthy voung 
stock than to try and renovate sickly plants. 
— J . 

Keeping Marguerites U. Rina). — These arc 
often lifted from the open before frosts come, but If 
you cannot becure it n< od ball of *oil around the roots 
they often fail to survive Water any plants you may 
think of lifting both before and after lifting, pot them 
carefully, anil .hade for u time Then when estab¬ 
lished they may be .-toed with l’elargniiiums during 
th* 1 winter in a home with a temperature of about 
45 dogs. Do not over-water during the winter, and in 
the spring, if all goes well, they will soon produce 
plenty of cuttings, which ran he rooted in the Mine 
way as Geranium*. etc. 


OH R Y8ANTH EMUMS. 

PROSPECTS OF THE SEASON. 

OM5 may at this date—inid-Octobcr—form 
an idea us to the merits or otherwise of 
Chrysanthemum blooms generally. With 
the exception of the month of September, 
sunshine has been scanty since the spring. 
This want of sunshine will undoubtedly show 
itself a* the blooms develop, and those who 
grow large flowers for exhibition will have 
an anxious time. Reports have reached me 
of exceptionally stout growth ami large 
leaves. The growers may feast their eyes 
upon such growth with pardonable pride; 
but those witli the experience of a number of 
years will !>e less likely to regard it with 
pleasure. The worst purt of cultivators is 
that their system is too much of the rule of 
thumb order. In the ease of Chrysanthe¬ 
mums tho idea is so deeply rooted that stimu¬ 
lating manures must he applied, and tin 1 ' 
growth is forced up with these, regardless of 
soaaous. Without sun, the wood of these 
plants cannot he ripened ; but in a wet sea¬ 
son we can assist ripening by not feeding 
with strong manures. 

1 expect to see two defects in the blooms 
this year; one, flowers broad, but of a com¬ 
paratively flat nature; the other, much 
trouble with damping. These drawbacks 
are usually the result of strong, sappy 
growth, which iu many instances will he 
found td be hollow in the.middle. Some 
time back a grower—a notable exhibitor—. 
wrote me, stating that his plants were 
"bigger than he had ever had them." I. 
replied that 1 was sorry to hear it. Another 
important exhibitor, whose collection I saw 
a few days back, appeared to be just a little 
upset because the foliage of his Chrysanthe¬ 
mums seemed smaller than usual. Here are 
two typical cases I shall watch with some 
interest. The sunshine of the past few weeks 
should have done something in the way of 
ripening the wood; still, not enough to pre¬ 
vent errors of culture that. I have noted. One 
may also do a great deal by giving each plant 
plenty of room in the greenhouse, as well as 
providing air day and night. The best con¬ 
ditions for opening the flowers will be given 
by n little fire-heat, and the lights, especially 
the hack ventilators, open more or less, ac¬ 
cording to the weather. It is not well to 
allow anything in the nature of cold draughts 
through the front of the greenhouse. All 
about the flowers should he kept ns dry as 
possible. Watering may be done early in 
the day. My notion of feeding is to give the 
plants just sufficient to keep them in health, 
not to force a sappy, unnatural growth. As 
the blooms open indoors, I would at each 
watering give liquid manure, so weak as to 
just colour the water. There is nothing 
better than cow or sheep manure. This 
should be fresh. There is no better way 
than putting a quantity in a bag and 
placing it in a tub of water, always ready 
for use. 

It is yet early to write of novelties in the 
large Chrysanthemums. One of the most 
promising yet seen is W. Beadle, of a crim¬ 
son or amaranth shade. It is very large; 
its petals hang in a long and graceful man¬ 
ner. forming a bloom of a type I. for one. 
admire most. It is broad, too, with ail arch¬ 
like shape from the centre. Mrs. Norman 
Davis, a variety I thought the best of last 
year’s new ones, is opening nicely. From 
early buds, the florets do not appear to have 
that finished, rich look admired last autumn; 
hut, as it is not unlike the one-time favourite. 
Mine. Carnot, we may expect to see this trait 
in later blooms. It is easy to grow, and I 
quite expect it to prove about the finest white 
for exhibition. In Secretaire Clement, a 
variety from France of a couple of years ago, 
we have a kind of more than usual promise. 
It has thick, glossy-looking petals, of an in 
curving form, and the bloom is large and 
massive; colour, a light fawn shade. The 
remarkably rich crimson variety, Joseph 
Stoney, is evidently at its best from late 
formed buds. The early blooms have too 
many of those quilled petals opening to make 
it pretty. It 14 large, and the form is good. 
Miss Hilda Rowley liae flowers of a charming 
shade of j>ink. - One -of the i^hoicest—now 
opening i* "Mis* DrWtFhy^Oliveri not quite 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 







464 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


October 26, 1907 


new, but a lovely flower. It is a variety 
with very large blooms, composed of long, 
drooping florets, which have much substance. 
It opens white, with a tinge of pink, but when 
fully developed is almost pure in tint. This 
is one of the seedlings raised by Mr. G. Mile- 
ham, Leatherhead, who also raised W. 
Beadle, as well as that most wonderful flower, 
Mrs. A. T. Miller. When one thinks of the 
limited room at the disposal of this raiser for 
seedling rearing, one can appreciate his re¬ 
markable success. Probably many who are 
for the first time growing that lovely salmon- 
pink variety, Edith Jameson, will fail to ob¬ 
tain good blooms of it. This belongs to a 
race of sorts (and a good thing there are not 
many of them) the flowers of which must be 
selected from very early buds. Katie Pal- 
grave (a lovely white), Dorothy Pywell 
(another white), and Mrs. H. Weeks (yet 
another white), are a few’ kinds I can call to 
mind. The best way to grow them is to root 
the cuttings in February, and, after the 
usual potting and growing, retain the first 
flower-buds that appear. A most promising 
sort is Lady Talbot, very much like the 
variety Mrs. W. Mease. The blooms are 
opening splendidly. Besides the varieties 
already named, the following are giving pro¬ 
mise of very fine flowers : Algernon Davis, 
Beatrice May, Duchess of Sutherland, Mag¬ 
nificent, Eleanor Duchess of Northumber¬ 
land, E. J. Brooks, Mrs. It. Hooper Pearson, 
Mrs. W. Knox, Reginald Vallis, F. S. 
Vallis, William Wilson, and Mrs. D. Willis 
James. 

Fortunately, Chrysanthemums grow’n for 
other purposes than for large blooms are not 
so likely to be overgrown. The number of 
shoots the plants perfect prevents this, and 
a moist season is likely to help the grower. 
Good bush or decorative plants should, there¬ 
fore, be plentiful. The season, too, has 
suited the early-flowering varieties out-of- 
doors. We have rarely had such a wealth of 
blossom as these have given, and are now 
giving, because, so far, we have escaped 
frost. We grow too many varieties of the ! 
early-flowering Chrysanthemum. All the 
Mme. Marin Masse family are worth growing 
on account of their earliness. This group 
includes Horace Martin, llahbie Burns, Goo. 
Bowness, Ralph Curtis, Crimson Masse, 
Wells’ Masse, Improved Marie Masse, and, 
maybe, others. For a crimson, Goacher’s is 
the best. Polly, as a bronze, surpasses any 
variety, so does Roi des Blancs as a white. 
Lillie is a first rate pink ; Champ d’Or is a 
grand yellow, so is the variety Miss B. Miller. 
Perle Chatillonaisn (creamy white), Rubis 
(claret colour), Rosie (buff shade) are a few 
kinds that should be grown in quantity. 
Later ones, such as O. J. (Quintus, white 
(). J. Quintus, La Paetolc, Sunshine, Rve- 
croft Glory, and Mons. W. Holmes, in most 
seasons, however good this, really require to 
be flowered under glass. H. S. 


NOTES AND REPLIES . 
Early-flowering Chrysanthemum Hector. 

—During the present season this fine Japan¬ 
ese border Chrysanthemum hus been seen in 
fine form. When exhibited before the floral 
committee of the N.C.S., on October 4th last 
year, a first-class certificate was granted it. 
The variety is comparatively unknown. It 
appears to have been raised in Scotland, a 
well-known Glasgow grower being the for¬ 
tunate raiser and distributor. The flower is 
of pleasing reflexed Japanese form, and the 
colour is a pleasing shade of soft pink. Each 
flower is developed on a long foot stalk with¬ 
out disbudding, and the plant is a continuous 
bloomer. The habit, however, is hardly 
sturdy enough, and plants struck early in the 
spring are disposed to grow just a trifle too 
tall.—E. G. 


Pompon Chrysanthemum Orange Pet —This 
hf-Iong* to quite a new type of Pompon Chrysanthe¬ 
mum, and possibly may be the forerunner of several 
others of the same type. The flowers are not too 
larpe, and because of this fact the plant should be 
welcomed by all lovers of the early-flowering Chrys¬ 
anthemums. This variety has a robust and vigorous 
growth, and is very free-flowering. In consequence of 
the latter trait it is possible to guther large and 
handsome sprays of its lovely golden-orange blossoms. 
As a border-plant it is a useful sort on account of its 
fine branching habit. 'Ihe plant attains a height of 
about feet, and conus flower in lutaScptem- 
*' r --C. A. H. g , /*T I 


Digitiz 




r in lutaScptc 

ogle 


GARDEN WORK. 

Conservatory. —Now that we are likely to 
have damp weather, the ventilation should 
be carefully managed. Unless frosty, a chink 
of air may be left on all night with advan¬ 
tage, as long as the Chrysanthemums last. 
By-and-bye, when we have to depend more 
upon forced flowers, night air, if given at all, 
should be in very small quantities, so as to 
avoid ereating a draught. Do the watering 
early in the day, without spilling it about. 
The watering should bo looked over daily, 
though all plants will not require it. Ca¬ 
mellias are attracting attention again. Well- 
grown specimens are always attractive in 
winter, and, in my opinion, are superior to 
many things grown now, and they are much 
more lasting. Some of the single and semi- 
double varieties are very beautiful, and are 
more useful when cut than those heavy, 
double flowers. It must be understood that 
Camellias will not thrive in soil containing 
lime. A mixture of good loam and peat, with 
sand, suits them well, and the drainage must 
be ample. The Epaeris is another family 
we used to grow extensively for winter bloom¬ 
ing, and when the plants reached specimen 
size they were useful in the conservatory. 
With a little pruning after flowering, and 
shifting on from time to time, very fine 
specimens were made. The watering and 
potting had to be in careful hands, but in 
this respect the same conditions are necessary 
with all hard-wooded plants. Winter-flower¬ 
ing Heaths are now coming into bloom. 
These are chiefly wlmt are termed soft-wooded 
varieties, and are not so difficult to keep in 
health as are the tricolors and other hard- 
wooded species that were grown in the past. 
I exoect Heaths were given up because they 
would not stand the close, heated atmos¬ 
phere of the conservatory. For a cool-house 
from which the frost is just kept out a col¬ 
lection of Heaths would be very interesting, 
and, if potted in good peat, and carefully 
watered, there would be no difficulty in their 
oultivation, and some species will be always 
flowering. 

Stove. —There will bo a few Orchids com¬ 
ing into flower now—among them Cypripe- 
diums, Dendrobiums, Oncidiums, and others 
that require warmth. More people are grow¬ 
ing these now, and they are cheaper. The 
wonder is, considering the number of Orchids 
imported, the price keeps up so well. Of 
course, the average grower does not touch the 
high-priced things, but anyone with good 
peat and Spagnuin Moss, and plenty of drain¬ 
age, can grow most of the commoner kinds 
of Orchids, and they are beautiful, though 
they may not be rare. A well grown plant of 
Dendrobiuin uobile may be taken to the con¬ 
servatory. or even to the drawing-room, for 
a time, when in flower. Begonias are now 
coining into flower. Growers appear to have 
overcome the difficulty of propagating GJoire 
de Lorraine—at least, those who hud any 
difficulty. We have done best with cuttings 
from comparatively young plants. Cut them 
down before exhaustion has set in. The 
young shoots are then clean and healthy, and, 
in a brisk temperature, soon root. If one 
wants to work up stock of any particular 
family, either from cuttings or by division, it 
is better to work from young, healthy plants. 
We want regular fires now, and plenty of 
atmospheric moisture, which can be obtained 
by damping floors with an occasional syring¬ 
ing, if the water is pure. A temperature 
of from 60 degs. to 65 degs. will he high 
enough at night, and give a little air in mild, 
calm weather, when the sun shines. 

Basket Ferns.— All the Nephrolepis family 
may be used for baskets, but among the more 
recent introductions N. Piersoni is, I think, 
the best, though N. exaltata superba is also 
very good. Though they may not require a 
tropical temperature, they want a little 
warmth in winter, and the same may be said 
of Phlebodium aureum, which makes a good 
basket plant. All young plants want a little 
more warmth at starting than will be neces¬ 
sary later in life. The Elk’s-Horn Fern 
(Platyeerium alcicorne) is very effective in a 
good-sized basket, and it mav be grown sur¬ 
rounded with Moss or cork. It wants nothing 
but Moss and moisture, though when the 


plants are large a little stimulant may be 
given in the water during growth. Nearly all 
strong-growing Ferns will appreciate a little 
something in the water, or a little plant food 
near the roots as they increase in age. 

Pruning early Vines. This should be 
done, if not already finished, 60 that the 
wounds may have time to heal before forcing 
begins. If there is reason to fear bleeding, 
use styptics immediately ; painter's knotting 
will do. Black Hamburghs, Alieantes, and 
Muscats always show plenty of bunches if the 
roots are in good condition, so cut back to 
tw r o buds or eyes. There are cases where one 
has to leave rather a longer spur to secure 
good bunches, but that may he taken as a 
sign that the roots are too deep, and the 
roots should be lifted as 60011 as the work 
can be done. The spur system of pruning is 
generally adopted, but take up a young rod 
occasionally, and, when ready to bear, cut out 
an old one. This will give fresh vigour to 
old Vines, and mav be carried out without 
any loss of crop. This, combined with sur¬ 
face-feeding, will generally keep Vines in good 
condition. Grape-growers of the present dav 
may obtain help from the chemist, and all 
the best Grape-growers do this. 

Orchard-house trees in pots —These will 
now be outside, and the house is, probably, 
fiLled with Chrysanthemums or some other 
useful plants. I am assuming all the trees 
which required repotting have been attended 
to, and the others top-dressed, and as thev 
will, probably, have to remain outside till 
January, the pots should be sheltered with 
Bracken or long litter to protect the pot 3 and 
the roots from frost. 

Outdoor garden. —Cannas, Gladioli, and 
Begonias must soon be taken up, dried, and 
stored in6ome frost proof place. Cannas may 
be left outside, if heavily covered with half- 
decayed leaves and thatched down with litter. 
I have kept them in this way, and they al¬ 
ways broke up strongly in spring, but we 
got tired of seeing heaps of litter all winter, 
and so they were all lifted arid stored in the 
Peach-house on the border, with a little leaf- 
mould scattered among them. Both these 
and Begonias will keep very well in Cocoa- 
fibre. An exceedingly pretty covering for a 
10-foot wall may be had bv planting a mix¬ 
ture of Cotoneaster microphylla and Euonv 
mus radicans variegatus, the white foliage of 
the Euonymus showing through the red 
berries of the Cotoneaster in a very pleasing 
and effective manner. What a splendid Rose 
Rove d’Or is for a pergola or any other posi 
tion where there is room for freedom of 
growth ! There is no difficulty in clothing the 
upper part of the pergola, but the bottoms of 
the pillars are often bare. This void I have 
lately seen filLed very effectively with China 
Roses planted on the outer side of the pillars. 
Luurette Messiniy, Duchess, Cramoisi Su- 
perieur, and Queen Mah are all good. 

Fruit garden. -It is evidence of neglect to 
leave Strawberry-beds full of weeds and run¬ 
ners. The duration of Strawberries should 
not exceed three years. The old beds are 
very often chopped over with the spade, all 
rubbish, when dried, burnt and scattered 
about the ground. Drills are then drawn 
2£ feet apart, and the land planted with late 
Broccoli. The Broccoli plants are pricked 
out to get strong for the Straw berry-beds to 
be cleared. Strawberries, being in a measure 
surface rooting, should be fed oil the surface 
at this season with good manure. The wax 
with insects is never ended. I notice in many 
villa gardens American-blight is spreading. 
This cannot altogether be conquered by a w in¬ 
ter dressing, but Gishurst compound, used 
freely when the leaves are down, will help. 
This may be used at the rate of 4 oz. to the 
gallon by those who do not care to handle the 
alkali wash, which has been much recom¬ 
mended, and can be obtained ready for mix¬ 
ing from the sundry shops. Do not forget 
wrapping the grease-bands round the steins 
about 2 feet from the ground. Add a little 
more grease when the grease dries. Most of 
the Apples and Pears may be gathered now. 

Vegetable garden.- Peas will soon be 
over, but Brussels Sprouts and Tom Thumb 
Savoys will be useful. iCauliflowers also are 
plentiful. The frost has done no harm yet 
where the precaution 'was taken to-tie or 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


October 26, 1907 


GARDEjYIjYG illustrated. 


4G5 


break a leaf or two over the heart. There is 
uow plenty of Spinach, and roots of all kinds 
are plentiful and good. Among the choicer 
vegetables French Beans that were started in 
a warm pit will bo useful for some time yet. 
It is, perhaps, too soon yet to think about 
Asparagus, but it would be quite possible to 
have a supply next month, if strong four 
year-old plants are cut down now, lifted, and 
started on a hot-bed. Life is now vigorous 
and active in young plants, and if they had 
not been cut from much they will be very 
strong, and soon respond to warmth. There 
will be a brisk demand for salads now, but 
Lettuce, Endive, Celery, Cucumbers, Ra¬ 
dishes, Mustard and Cress, Tarragon, and 
Chervil will be plentiful now. Chicory is not. 
required yet, but it will be useful later if 
there is any falling off in the Endive. All 
roots which are likely to be injured by frost 
should be lifted and stored. Beets are the 
most likely to suffer, but a degree or two will 
not do any harm. I have left, part of the 
stock in the ground, covered with litter, and 
the roots were rather better in flavour than 
those taken up. . E. Hobday. 

THE COMING WEEK'S WORK. 

Extract a from a Garden Diary. 

October 28th. —Pruned Peach-trees in early- 
house. The trees will be washed and trained 
shortly, and the inside borders top-dressed. 
I believe in making provision for the roots to 
run outside, as if the trees are to have a 
long, vigorous life the roots must not be 
crippled from want of room. We have been 
fairly free from red-spider in the past. This 
I attribute in some respect to using sulphur 
very freely in the whitewash and a good sup¬ 
ply of water. The borders are now being 
examined, and will be moistened, if necessary. 

October 29th. —We are still busy clearing 
beds and borders, and filling up with suitable 
things for the spring display. The Autumn 
Crocus (Colchicum), in some of its forms, is 
now very bright and fresh in sheltered spots 
along the edge of the shrubbery. We are 
doing a little more with groups of Chinn 
Roses against backgrounds of shrubs on the 
margin of the lawn. A mass of Ducher 
(white) has been a picture. Laurette Messimy 
has also been good—in fact, all the China or 
allied sections are beautiful. 

October 30th. —Laid down n quarter of late 
Broccoli with heads to the north. Finished 
lifting Carrots and Beet. Other roots will 
remain in the ground for the present. The 
finishing touches have been given to the new 
Rose-beds. I am in favour of grouping the 
new beds in colours—white, pink, crimson, 
yellow, and so on. Of course, yellows are not 
numerous, so the copper and apricot tints 
will come in. Aurore, a very pretty dwarf 
yellow China, makes a neat group in front. 

October 31st. —We have pretty well finished 
the arrangement of plant-houses for the pre¬ 
sent, and shall use vaporiser in every house, 
to 6tart clean. Of course, constant changes 
are going on, but when all the houses have 
been cleaned there is not much trouble from 
these changes. Roman Hyacinths will soon 
be in flower, and later lots are coming on. 
More bulbs, especially Narcissi, have been 
potted and boxed. Tulips also are moving. 

November 1st.— Late Chrysanthemums are 
all under cover, but will be kept quite cool, 
as we want these for cutting ns soon as we 
can have them, for there is nothing that quite 
takes their place, except Narcissi, and they 
do not quite do it,.as there are no good, cheap 
whites that will set up so well and last so 
long. Repaired turf on tennis lawn. For 
this work we want turf free from Clover and 
weeds. All roots of weeds are taken out 
before laying the turf. 

November 2nd. —Deciduous trees and 
shrubs, os well as evergreens, are being 
moved now. There are always old things to 
grub and replace with better things. We 
are planting a few of the recently-introduced 
shrubs in specially prepared sites, and wher 
ever there is an old Laurel it is grubbed and 
a Holly planted. In this way a change has 
taken place in the shrubbery, which, on the 
whole, has been very satisfactory. A few of 
the newer Lilacs and the brightly-coloured 
Japanese Maples havo^tHf) l>een introduced. 

Digitized by (jO* .g[0 


ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 
October 15th. 

At the usual fortnightly meeting, on the 
above date, a large number of the exhibits 
were of the highest excellence, and abound¬ 
ing in interest. The Pitcher-plants from the 
Messrs. Veitch and Sons, and the fine dis¬ 
plays of Onions, Potatoes, Orchids, Chrysan¬ 
themums, together with the new shrubs from 
Central China, afforded the visitor ail un¬ 
usual array of material for inspection and 
admiration. The Michaelmas Daisies, too, 
were well shown, and in great variety. The 
attendance was very large during the after¬ 
noon. The only gold medal awarded at this 
meeting was given to Messrs. Jas. Veitch and 
Sons, Ltd., Chelsea, for a superb group of 
Nepenthes, or Pitcher-plants, of which the 
firm possesses, probably, the finest collection 
in the country. All the examples shown were 
in splendid condition, the huge, • richly- 
coloured, and well-developed pitchers attract¬ 
ing much attention. Staged on wooden stands 
of from 2 feet to nearly 4 feet in height, so 
that the pitchers could depend in a natural 
manner, with an undergrowth of Asparagus 
plumosus, the plants looked their best. Some 
of the species, as N. Veitchi, are very rare, 
others, as N. ventrieosa, never fail to attract 
by their beauty and distinct features. Other 
notable kinds included N. Ruby (see awards), 
N. sanguinea, a very handsome kind, N. 
mixta, N. Mastersiana, N. Curtisi, N. C. 
superba, and others. There were about two 
dozen of these plants. The same firm con¬ 
tributed a variety of flowering plants, as win¬ 
ter-flowering Begonias, Streptocarpi, and the 
like, and in another direction a highly in¬ 
teresting lot of Berberis, Cratoegus, and other 
berry-bearing plants was seen. Messrs. J. 
Cheal and Sons, Crawley, filled the table at 
the end of the hall with cut 6hrubs and trees, 
with a view to showing the brilliant effects 
created by the grouping of such things in 
park, garden, or woodland. The collection 
was a most complete one, and included some 
of the newer Vines. which are especially valu¬ 
able for their rich leaf colouring. Mr. H. J. 
Jones, Lewisham, contributed a fine lot cf 
Chrysanthemums huge flowers, certainly, 
yet bearing unmistakable evidences of the 
highest cultural skill. The new variety, 
H. J. Jones, 1908, is, perhaps, the Tiehest 
tone in golden-yellow we liavo seen, and a 
handsome flower withal. Mr. F. Brazier, 
Caterham, Surrey, staged one of the freshest 
and brightest lots of Michaelmas Daisies we 
have seen, thus proving that a few selected 
and distinct colours carry far greater weight 
ami produce better results than an endless 
array of too-muoh-alike sorts. Early Chrys¬ 
anthemums were also shown by Mr. Brazier. 

Messrs. Wm. Wells anil Co., Ltd., Mers- 
thani, had a very fine group of Chrysanthe¬ 
mums, the array of early-flowering sorts in 
the most distinct shades making a splendid 
show. Mrs. Thomson, a rich golden yellow, 
is a very striking variety, and of dwarf habit. 
Messrs. William Cutbush and Sons, High 
gate, had a group of hardy flowers, in which 
the Michaelmas Daisies, in many distinct 
forms, were seen in big masses. Colchicums, 
Autumn Crocuses, Anemones, Pentstemons. 
Soliclages, etc., were also noteworthy. A 
feature of the group from Mr. H. B. May, 
Edmonton, was the collection of Adiantums, 
which, if not unique, was highly representa¬ 
tive of this important family. Among others, 
such widely different species as A. Farleyense, 
A. Veitchi, A. mioropinnulum, were seen. 
Bouvardias, Tree-Carnations, hybrid Vero¬ 
nicas, all welL grown, came from the same 
source. Messrs. J. Peed and Sons, West Nor¬ 
wood, arranged a large semi-circular group of 
Chrysanthemums on the floor, arid in another 
position occupied a large table with flowers of 
Tuberous Begonias from the open air. These 
latter, in great variety, afforded the best evi¬ 
dence of a really fine strain of these useful 
plants. Some Malmaison and other Carna¬ 
tions were well shown by Mr. C. F. Raphael, 
Shenley, while Mr. Eric Such, Maidenhead, 
contributed a fine group of Chrysanthemums, 
together with a handsome lot of a Solidago 
called Golden Wings, which is, without doubt, 
S. Shorti. Mr. G. Reuthe, Keston, had quite 
an interesting lot of hardy things Crocus, 


Colchicums, Lobelias, Kniphofias, Androsace 
lanuginosa, etc. Messrs. R. Veitch and Son, 
Exeter, had a email exhibit of the brilliant 
Gilia coronopifolia, Dendrcmeeon rigidum, 
and a solitary flower of Mutisia decurrens. 
Messrs. G. and A. Clark, Dover, showed some 
good hardy flowers, a prominent feature being 
made of Cimicifuga simplex. A large group 
of Lilium tigrinum Fortunei came from 
Messrs. R. and G. Cuthbert, Southgate, while 
from Mr. L. R. Russell, Richmond, came-a 
good lot of Skiinmias, Cotoneasters, Aucubas, 
etc., in fruit, together with many choice 
shrubs in pots. Messrs. Lane and Son, Berk- 
hampstead, contributed a useful assortment of 
conifers and other evergreens lifted from the 
open ground. Messrs. T. S. Ware, Ltd., 
Feltham, had Dahlias and other flowers. 
Messrs. Barr and Sons, Covent Garden, had 
hardy flowers in variety, and the Messrs. Wm. 
Bull and Sons, Chelsea, staged stove fine- 
foliaged plants and Orchids. Some good Car¬ 
nation novelties came from Mr. Dutton, Iver, 
Bucks, the Executrix of the late Mr. George 
May, Upper Teddington, contributing plants 
of a rich, glowing scarlet Carnation, named 
George May. 

The exhibit of some seventy varieties of 
Onions, from the Messrs. Dobbie and Co., 
Rothesay, was of a most instructive char¬ 
acter. The whole of the large collection was 
sown on March 2nd, and given ordinary field 
culture. It was an effort to obtain a tho¬ 
roughly representative trial, and for this pur¬ 
pose seeds were obtained from the leading 
British firms, and from French, German, 
Italian, Dutch, and American firms. Onions 
were exhibited by Mr. II. Barber, Henley, 
while Messrs. Carter and Co., High Holborn, 
Messrs. G. Massey and Sons, Spalding, and 
Miss Dodge, Loosely Lodge, Guildford, each 
exhibited a collection of Potatoes. Some fine 
Melons came from Mr. J. C. Tallack, Shipley 
Hall, Derby, and good Apples from Messrs. 
Hugh Low and Co., Enfield. 

The collections of Orchids were not large, 
but included many choice and meritorious 
examples. Major Holford, C.I.E., C.V.O., 
showed Cattleya Hardyana Westonbirt. and 
Mr. J. Gurney Fowler, South Woodford, 
had a remarkable specimen of Arachnanthe 
Rohanniana, a plant of Vanda-liko growth, 
the yellowish-crimson-blotched flowers, borne 
upon a drooping inflorescence -2 feet long. 
Mr. Leopold de Rothschild, Gunnersburv 
House, Acton (gardener, Mr. Hudson), showed 
some fine flowering examples of Dendrobium 
formosum giganteum, Cattleya Bowringiana, 
and Epidendrutn vitellinum majus. Choice 
exhibits of Orchids were also staged by the 
Messrs. Cypher, Cheltenham ; Sander and 
Co., St. Alhnns; Chnrlesworth and Co., 
Bradford; Stanley and Co., Southgate; 
Armstrong and Brown, Tunbridge Wells; 
Mr. N. C. Cookson, and others. 

A list of the awards and medals will be 
found in our advertisement pages. 


LAW AND CUSTOM* 


Tenant removing shrubs, etc. (Inquirer). 
—There are tenants and tenants. If the 
tenant is a nurseryman or market-gardener, 
the answer I am about to give you will not 
apply to him; but if you refer to an ordinary 
villa tenant, the answer is that he cannot 
legally remove anything that has taken root 
in the soil—even a box border has been held 
to be irremovable. It is not very satisfactory 
to have to answer a question couched in in¬ 
definite terms, and if you will repeat the 
question, giving me details as to the nature 
of the tenancy, I will tell you what the posi¬ 
tion is precisely with regard to it.— Bar¬ 
rister. 


Amateur auctioneering {“Auctioneer ”).— 
No. The person selling must hold an auc¬ 
tioneer's licence. Probably what you have 
in mind is the method known as a “Dutch 
auction,” in which the seller begins at an 
improbable figure, and inquires whether any¬ 
body in the company will give as much as 
that. Then he offers to sell at gradually 
lowering prices, until somebody accepts. 
That is a very common practice at bazaars 
and shows, and there isiriothing whatever ille- 

Pffi R 6Ff LU N 01S AT 


URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Oct o bp it 2G, 1907 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

Rose White Rambler not flowering (J. Stuart). 

- Unless the Rose was pruned back last year, which 
would tend to induce it to make growth, it should j 
certainly have flowered this summer. Do not prune 
it, but spread out the growths as much as possible, 
nailing some of them in a horizontal position. J1 you 
cannot nail out all the growths, allow some of them 
to droop away from the wall a little. This, together > 
with the spreading out, should cneourage the bios- ; 
soming next year. . ... 

Rose failing (G. G.).-The failure of your Rose is 
probably due to bad drainage, or it may be owing to 
dryness at the roots or poverty of soil, (live it- a 
good mulch of rotten manure, and.if on examination 
you find that the soil is dry, water freely so as to 
wash the goodness of the mulching down to the roots. 
The Spinea Aruncus thrives best in a deep, moist 
loam. Your soil is, we fear, too heavy. If so, dig it 1 
out and mix some mar ure with it, and then replant, 
watering freely during summer if dry. 

Gloxinias ( Gloxinia, Hull). — Turn the heat on at 
once To do Gloxinias well you must have a tempera¬ 
ture of not less than 65 degs. by night and 75 degs. 
hv dav. The leaves in the case of your plants are 
perishing from the cold. When the plants have 
finished blooming, gradually diminish the water 
supply till the leaves die down and the corms be¬ 
come quite dormant, when they should be kept dry. 
When the leaves are dying down give all the light pos¬ 
sible. During the winter you may leave the eorms 
in the pots or shake them out and lay them into 
boxes of sand. The house in which the Gloxinias are 
kept during the winter should never fall below 45 

Roses for pergola (F. Alison ).—Your idea of 
pergola and the proposed sorts wherewith to cover the 
same is, on the whole, a good one. Instead of Queen 
Alexandra, we would suggest Rubin. This is nearer 
to the red colour you want at No. 5, and does not 
mildew so badly as Queen Alexandra. For No. 9, as 
vou want a red, it will not do to plant Edmund 
Proust for thus is pink. We would suggest Frangois 
Crousse and Hiawatha instead of Reine Marie 
llenriette. On No. 13, Conrad F. Meyer is a pink, 
and we take it. vou desire a red. Here we should 
plant Reine Marie'Henriette or Noella Nabonnand for 
this colour. With above alterations vour list would 
be an excellent one. 

TREES AND SHRUBS. 

Cytisus Andreanus (G. G.).—This is quite hardy 
under normal conditions; but your letter suggests 
(ihough vou do not say so) that the plants are in 
pots under shelter. If so, you had better allow them 
to remain till the spring, fts it will not be giving 
them a reasonable chance to plant -them on an ex¬ 
posed rockery after being brought up in a tender 
manner. Next spring, after the harsh winds of 
March are over, you can safely plant them out. 
They mav be grown in pots for the greenhouse, in 
which structure they are very showy. After llower- 
ing in the greenhouse, the plants should be pruned 
back and encouraged to make fresh growth, being 
dining the summer plunged out-of-doors. 

FRUIT. 

Gooseberries growing too strongly (.Cheviot). 

—We should advise you to thin out the growths fully 
one-third, still further shortening back nil other 
shoots to about one-fourth. This thinning of the 
growths will admit light and air. If the growth still 
remains vigorous, then, if the bushes are not too old, 
we should advise you to lift them and replant them. 

If the bushes are very old, then plant thrifty young 
bushes during November or up to February whenever 
the weather is suitable. 

SHORT REPLIES. 

Gerard No, there is no value in Tea-leaves or 

Cotlee-gronnds.- Slater —Quite impossible to assign 

anv reason from the meagre information you give us. 

Edwin Orel.—The best way will he to adver¬ 
tise what vou require in our pages.- E. J. W . Yes. 

_ Constant Reader.-See reply re •'Plums gum¬ 
ming ” to “J. C.,” in our issue of September 21st, 

,, 4 o’o. _ Colonel.— 1, As we know nothing of the 

stove vou refer to, we cannot say. 2, No.—-C.— 

Grapes' Muscat of Alexandria and Madresileld Court 
will not succeed in a greenhouse only heated by a 
small stove. The only Vine likely to do any good is 

Black Hamburgh.- Montagu Higginson.-ll you can 

lift the plant, do so next spring, and put it into a 
tub or a very large pot, all depending on the size of 
the plant. Unripened wood is certainly the cause or 

the buds falling.- E. J. Taylor.-'So; the Carnation. 

the flower of which you send, is not the Old l love, 
which is quite distinct in foliage from the specimen 
vou send. The calyx in the case of the Old Clove is 

much shorter and stouter. - Mary S. E. Kaye.— You 

have a wide selection in the Clematises, while you 
could also try the evergreen Barberries, Escallonias, 
I'otoneasters, Pyrus japonica, Ccanothus (protected in 
the winter), Chimnnunthug, Forsytlna, and Jasmine 
The Sol an um would not, we fear, do with you Had 
vou told ua what part of Scotland you refer to we 

could have helped you better.- R. E .—Kindly saj 

whether you refer to the ordinary Asparagus or one 
of the forms, such as A. Sprengeri, A. plumosus 
nanus, etc., which reguire greenhouse treatment it 
vou mean the ordinary Asparagus, you can purchase 
two and three-vear-old roots, planting such in April or 
how seed in April, as seedlings will answer your 
purpose, seeing you only want the foliage f°r fating. 
You will find an article dealing with the making of a 
bed in our issue of October 2»th, 1305, p. 4 j 1, a copy 
of which can be had of the publisher, post free, for 
l d --R 1-Get “Vines and Vine Culture," Barron, 
.rice r»s. 6d. post free, from 13, Sutton Court-road, 
J’llwirk, I.on,iun. W.—0. f. Ii.ve J»t p-m- 

throueh several of our leading Ro.e-crowers o.H.i- 

k— .’go;*' ,n " iv 


of our Tea Roses are very varied.- Hardy UruUi.- 

What is known as a sport. Many of our best pre¬ 
sent-day Chrysanthemums have originated in this 

way. Try and increase it if you can.- T. E .—See 

reply to “ B. Spraggc," re "Cracked Pears," in our 
issue of October otli, p. 416. Poverty at the roots 
has much to do with the trouble iu your fruits. 

Names of plants.- W. Smith .-a, Seduin Sieboldl 
variegatum; b, Sempervivum aruclinoideuui; c, I tens 
scrrulata; d, Kalosanthes cocciueu; c, Nephrolepis 

exultata.- P. A. Sturge .-Crocus speeiosus, a small 

bloom of.- Macausland, Garvah.—l, Bear s Breech 

(Acanthus spinosus); 2, Pittosporum Mayi. b. 

Wes ton .—The Cliine.se Box Thorn (Lycium ehinense). 

- Col. Fetherstonhaugh.-'ihe Field Maple, as far 

as we can judge without any fruit.- Alladonian.- 

1 Hordeum jubntum; 2, helonium autumnale; 3, 
Lysimachia vulgaris; 4. Physostegla virgin lea; 3, 

Antirrhinum Asarina.- Gerard.— The Bladder Senna 

(Colutea arborescens).- Dahlia Seedling .—You ought 

to submit the flowers to a Dahlia specialist.—-( ol- 

chester.—2, Not recognised.- Oxford .—1 robably 

Nertera depressa, but to be quite sure must have 

flowers or fruit.-Troirer.-Speeimen too crushed to 

be able to identify.- Mrs. Patrick .-1, Garrya ellip¬ 

tical 2, Spurge Laurel (Daphne Laureola); 3. Leyces- 

teria forniosa.- Southport .—do not name florist 

flowers-.If iss Osborn .-Ceanothus azureus. Grow 

against a wall, and if the winter is very severe pro- | 

tect with a mat.-Mamic. Bouvardia Humboldti 

corvinljiflara. See article in present issue, P- «* z - 

Names of fruit.- T. B.—Pear Beurre buperfln. 

--L T B -A form of the Siberian Crab Apple.— 

G B ' Northcotc.-a, Ill-shaped example of Beauty of 
Kent ; b, Wellington or Dumelow s Seedling; c, Bram- 
lev’s Seedling.- W. Stocker.- Apples: 1, Jefferson: 

2 ' Fearn’s Pippin. Pear: 8, Please send "hen ripe. 

Plum: 4 , Reine Claude de Bavay.- Alex- S. Eetne 

-111., Striped Beaufln; V., Not recognised ; X.. Lox s 
Orange Pippin; IX., Wellington.-- H - A, Mc¬ 
Cracken.-Kindly read our rules as to sending fruit 
for name. You send only one example of six kind. , 
and these n ot at all characteristic or good specimen.- . 

ALL ON APPROVAL. 

Every Lot 6d. a Lot. .. 

25 Alyssmn, 6d.; 20 Aquilegia, 6d ; 2u Arabia, bd.. Jo 
Double White Achillea, tkl.; 2 A bullions Treej, €d., -u 
Antirrhinums. Cd.; 1 large Asparagus plumo9a,6d^.l large 
Asparagus Sprengeri, 6d. ; 1 large Ficus, (kl. • 1 Jffg® . h 
6d.; 2 large Rhododendrons, 6d.; 2 ^. A'>hneGa Cd^. . 
Auriculas, 6d.; 25 Brompton Stocks. 6d. , 8 Winter-flower 
ing BegoniaH, 6d.; 25 Canterbury Bells, 6d. , 8 Cinerari‘ a *i 
6d.; 9 lovely Carnations, 6<l.; 8 splendid Coleus, 6d_, 20 
Calliopsis, (kl. ; 50 Cornflowers, 6d.; 30 Compacta, Double 
Pink, Cd ; 12 Chrys. max., 6d. ; 30 Daisies, red or "bite, 
6.1; 10 Delphiniums. 6d.; 6 Eucalyptus, 6d ; ^ 

20 Foxgloves, fid.; 10 Guillardias, txl.. 12 Gypsophila, 6a.. 
10 Donnie Hollyhocks, 6d.; 20 Double Jacobea, Cd. , <0 
splendid Perennial Lupins, 6d.; 30 Forget-me-nots, bd.. 
12 Evening Primrose, 6d. ; 8 splendid Pnmu a Bmens s bd 
8 Primula oheonica, giant tlowenng, Gd-. In Pol)ftnthiis, 
(id.; 12 Everlasting Peas. 6d.: 8 Mrs. feinkins Pinks 6d-. 

6 Her Majesty Pinks, (kl. ; 8 Oriental Poppy, 6d , 20 
Iceland Poppy, 6d. ; 25 lovely mixed Pansies, 6d .12 Indian 
Pinks, Cd. ; 12 Single and Double Pyrethrum, 6d, , 20 Sweet , 
Williams, 6.1 ; 50 Wallflowers, B. Red. \ ellow,. Dresden. 
Rubv Gem. K. Queen, Vulcan, all separate or mixed, 6d., 
30 Rockets 6.1 ' 25 lovely Strawberry Plants, 6d. ; 3 clumps 
Double Violets, ~6d.; 4 clumps single Princess of Wales 
Violets 6.1 100 Tripoli Onions, Cd.; 100 Ailsa Craig Onun. 

6.1 ; 100 Cranston's Excelsior Onion, 6d.; 100 strong fflie 
Lettuce Plants, 6.1. ; 100 Red Cabbage, 6d . : 100 strong 
Cabbage Plants, Cd.: 50 Cauliflower Plants. 6d.; 6 strong 
Sage Trees, 6.1.; 12 Parsley roots 6.1. All orders ox er 5s. 
carefully packed, carriage paid. See my 1 **ou- 
sands of Roses, Fruit Trees, and all kinds of Bhnibs. lea. 

I am so convinced my goods are quality, not rubbish, hence 

1 Bfml on approval. Oaali returned if not as advertiaed. 

G. F. LETTS, F.R.H.S., 

The Nursories, 37. HADLEIG1I. SUFFOLK 

5 -” 500 SPLENDID NAMED BULBS. 5 - 

B White ti Blit". G Red Hyacimlw, named and ne|.arate, 20 
Sc ilia.,. 2a Tulipe. 20 Parroi Tulips. 2,i Kreesiaa, 2o Alliums 
25 Iris, 25 Star Bethlehem, 20 Anemones 21) Snowdrops, 20 
P .lived Kurd*.. » Grope llsav.nths, HSpunnu. 20 Ranun¬ 
culus, 30 Crocus. 25 Prinreps, 55 Iaias, 2o Stella, 20 Double 
Dalfs 25 Montbretiaa, 2 splendid I.ilieR, 3o splendid mixed 
NarciM.. all fluwring bulbs, carefully packed, named, and in 
separate bans, and free on rail, ns. 1 two totj, Sr Cd., free on 
rail G. F. LETTS, Bulb Importer, 3f, Hudleigh. Buffolk._, 

2 6. THE VILLA BULB COLLECTION. 2 6- 

4 White. 4 Blue, 4 Red Hyarintha. 20 Crocus. 20 Tulips, 20 
Iris 12 tvias 10 Frcesias, 10 Bnoadrops, 10 Star Bethlehem, 
0 Anemones,-10 Grape Hjadntha. 10 Alliums 10 Blue Sc.ll.s, 
10 Prince pa Narcissus, lOT.-Fye Narecvs 10 Rnaraxis, 20 
Giant flowering Narciss. Now the 210 splendid flowering 
bulbs, all named, put in separate logs, and eiirriage r^id 3s . 
half quantity 9d.. Is. (arrmge T*ai<l. F. LEI IS, Bulb 
Importer. 37. Hadleigh, Suffolk. ___. 

SHALL LOOK LOVELY AT CHRISTMAS. 

f, Cineraria0 Primulas. 0 Coleus, 12 Double Matchet 
MiKuonette. 4 Carnations. 11 Cal. eolanas, 4 Heliotrope 4 
Pali s 2 M imosa and 50 splendid bulbs, including Hyarintha. 
tSSS Lilies" etc. The whole HO I Avely Plants and 50 Bull-, 
all carefully packed and carriage paid, 2s.-G. F. LETTS. 
The Num-rios. 37. lladleigli Suffolk.___ 


CANTS 

World-renowned 
CHAM PION 

ROSES 

Direct from the Original Firm. 
Established 1765. 


V % 




Indispensable to all Lovers of Garden are our new 
ROSES and BULBS. 

r AT ALOGUES, containing 100unpublished Illustrations, 
fulUCultural Directions, sent free on application by 

GEMEN & BOURG, 

LUXEMBOURG (Grand Duchy). 

Ti,,. 1 nireit Row* Growers ami Bulb Importers of the 
(.■online nt. Orders from iil sant free of charge. 

Our products are Stronger, Hardier, and Cheaper than 
anywhere else. 




THE FINEST STOCK OF ROSES 
IN THE KINGDOM. f 

Full Descriptive Catalogue free oh application. 

BENJAMIN H. CANT & SONS, 

The Old Rose Gardens, 

COLCHESTER. _ 

ALL ON APPROVAL. 

Every Lot 6d. a Lot. 

Six mixed Bedding Hyacinths, Cd.; 1 Red, 1 White, 

1 Blue Exhibition Hyacinth, (kl. ; 10 Sir Watkins, 6*1. : 10 
Empress, 6th; 10 Emperor, 6*1.; 10 Grand Monarque, 6tl.; 

10 Victoria, Od.: 12 Grandes, Od. ; 12 Paper White, tkl.; 

15 Horafleldi, tkl.; 20 Doulde Gartlenia, 6t|.; 36 Cvnowire. 

Cd ; :k'» Princeps, 6d.: 25 Mrs Langtry. 6<L : 36 P Eye. 6d.; 

20 Double Daffs., 6d. ; 20 Barri compicuua, 6»l. All the 
above are finest flowering Narcissus. 36 of all the above, 
well mixed, Cd.; 50 Oxalis, Cd ; 25 Seillas sibiriea. 6d. ; 2-v 
Chinodoxa, 6tl. ; 36 splendid mixed Tulips, 6d.; 15 Scarlet 
Tulips, (kl.; 15 White Tulips, 6tl.; 15 Yellow Tulips. Id.: 

3 splendid Lilium candidum, 6d. ; 2 ( alia Lilies, 6d. ; 60 
mixed Crocus, fid ; 50 Yellow Crocus, fid. : 50 Snowdrop, Cd.; 

36 Jonquils, fid.; 50 Aconites, 6d.; 30 Gladiolus, 6d. ; 2U 
Dog Tooth Violets, od.; 60 lovely Iri.s, 6d. ; 20 Freesios, 

(kl ; 25 Single and Double Anemones, Cd ; 50 Ixias, 6d. : 

25 Ranunculus, 6d. : 1 Lilium auratum, 6d. ; 50 Star of 

Bethlehem, Cd. ; 50 Alliums, (kl. ; 50 Grape Hyacinths, Gd. 

All onler.s over 10a. carriage paid. Knotting my bulbs are 
quality, and not rubbish, as some offer, 1 will send all on 
approval, and if not as advertised, I will return cash Every 
bulb a flowering bull), Here's quality. 10 of my Empress 
1 Narcissus weigh over 21b. Can any other Arm offer you 
such quality 1 b > G F LETTSj 

Bulb Importer, 37, HADLEIG H. SUFF O LK. 

NEARLY GIVEN AWAY. 

Having had several acres of my land sold away from me 
must remove some of the finest Apple, Pear, Pluui, Cherry 
you ever saw, so will book orders at once. This i hanee 
will never occur again. Enormous Standard Apple. Pear, 
Plum. Cherry, la. 6d. each, fi for 7a. 6d. : splendid Bush or 
Pyramid Apple, Pear. Plum, Cheriy, Damson, Apricot, 
Peach, Nectarine, Is. each, or G for os. 5;PQ0 splendid Bush 
Apple and Pear Trees, names lost, grand stuff, 9d. each, or 
G for 4s 12 for 7s. Cd,; all had fruit on this season. 5,000 
splendid Fan or Ho’riz ntal Apple, Pear, Plum Cherrv, 
Apricot, Peach, Nectarine, all one price. 2a. 6d. eich. 
These are all tree*3 worth <s. Gd. each, having arms or 
trains 6 ft. long; but they must bs cleared. All orders 
carefully packed, packing free. Orders over miscarriage 
paid. See Catalogue for names. Also 50.003 grand 
Ro : eB to be removed, all named and separate kinds. 

3« 6d doz ' grand stuff. Catalogue gratis The above lots 
are very special, and will bo 8»n sold. Order at once. 

G. F. LETTS, F.R.H.S., 

The Nnrserio*, 37. HADLEIGH SUFFOLK 





GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


No. 1,495. —Vol. XXIX. 


Founded Inj W. Robinson, Author of " The English Flower GanLen" 


NOVEMBER 2, 1907. 


Adiantum cunemtum in 
large pots .. 471 

Anaj-anthua nmbellatUH 
Mooreanue ..471 

Aliuond- tree, the .. 477 
Annual* as bedding 

plants.474 

Apple crop, partiality of 
U»e .... 467 

Asparagus Spreogcri .. 471 
Keans, stringk-es .. 476 

blanching.476 

birds .479 

Briers from seed, rais¬ 
ing .470 

Cab We. spring, plant¬ 
ing .476 

Cabnages clubbing .. 460 
Camellia Amaryllis and 
Crinum, treatment of 460 
Carnations, exhibiting 471 
Carnation, Tree cr 

border.471 

Chrysanthemum Kitty 
Rogers, Japanese .. 472 


Cattleya labiata.. 

Chrysanthemum Com- 
teue Foucher de Car- 
iel. 

Chrysanthemum leaves, 
caterpillars on.. 

Chrysanthemum Mrs. 
Wakefield, n new 
market .. 

Chrysanthemums for 
bush plants, twelve, 
good Japanese 

Chrysanthemums, new 
Japanese 

Chrysanthemums, new 
semi early single- 
flowering 

Chrysanthemums — sea¬ 
sonable notes .. 

Chrysanthemums to 
flower in late Sept¬ 
ember, six early 

Chrysanthemums, two 
good new October- 
flowering border 


IN DEX. 


475 Chrysanthemums .. 472 I Herbaceous border, 

Clematises, grafting .. 480 planting a 
ConeflowerB, two annual 473 Hops, spent, as manure 

472 Conservatory .. .. 478 1 Indoor plants 

Cotoneaster, cutting liis reticulata bulbs 

470 back a. 480 ! diseased. 

i Coure Tronchudft .. 476 Jacobinia chrysoste- 

C’reepers for wall .. 479 i phana. 

472 Dahlias, keeping .. 479 I Lwlia pumila .. 

Fig border - slont-s as a Taw and custom 

mulching .. 468 Liltonia floribunda 

472 Fruit .* 467 Lilium auratum with 

Fruit garden .. .. 478 ; fasciated stem 

472 1 Fruit show, the RH.S. 467 Lily. Asa Grays (Lilium 

Fruit-trees in pots .. 478 1 Grayi). 

Fruit-trees, orchard, Medlars, gathering 

472 shortening .. ..480 Melon-Heeds germina- 

1 Fruit-trees, suckers to ting . 

472 ! wall . 480 Orchids. 

Garden, diary, extracts Outdoor garden . 

| from a. 478 Outdoor plants 

472 Garden, making a .. 480 Pansy lied, insects in .. 

Garden pests and friends 470 Peach Gladstone 

i Garden work .. .. 478 1 Peach-tree, red-spider 

472 | Gentiana vema .. .. 479 1 on. 


474 

479 

471 


471 

475 

479 

480 


475 

480 

480 

475 

478 

473 

470 

468 


Peach-house, late 
Peaches, stone-splitting 

in. 

Pelargoniums. treat¬ 
ment of Ivy-leaved .. 
Plants and flowers 
Plants for border 
Plants, hanging, tilling 
baskets with .. 
Plants in the house 
Plum and Pear-trees, 
caterpillars oti.. 

Plum Oulliu's Golden 

Gage . 

Plum President 
Plums, some late 
Potato Duchess of Corn¬ 
wall . 

Protection 
Raspberries failing 
Rose 1 a Tosea in 
autumn 

Rose Louis Van Houtte 
Rose, mealy-bug on 
Roses . 


478 

480 


471 

469 

479 


478 

478 


468 

468 

467 


476 

475 

470 


469 
170 

470 
469 


Roses for exhibition, 
manuring .. .. 470 

Rotes, October .. 469 

Savoj s .... .. 476 

Bpring Sat in - flower 
(Sisyrinchium grandi- 
florum), the .. 473 

Starworts.473 

Stove .478 

Terraco at Powis, the .. 473 

Tomato Sunrise .. .. 476 

Tomatoes, green.. .. 476 

Trees and shrubs .. 477 

Trees and shrubs, 
autumn tints in .. 477 

Vegetable garden .. 478 

Vegetables for exhibi¬ 
tion .480 

Vegetables 476 

Vine, large-leaved .. 480 

Vines in pots 468 

VioleU in frames 474 

Violets, red-spider on.. 479 
Week's work, the 

coming .. . 478 


FRUIT. 

PARTIALITY OF THE APPLE CROP. 
There i.s a strange unevenness of the cur¬ 
rent season's Apple crop, which would seem 
somewhat difficult of explanation. Some 
kinds are laden almost to breaking point, 
while others alongside are almost bare. Then, 
again, one meets with instances of almost 
barren orchards, while ill a few other cases 
good crops arc seen. Certainly there never 
were more rosy prospects when the trees 
were in bloom. There was then no difference 
between sorts, for all alike were loaded with 
bloom. That there are crops of good Apples 
has been demonstrated at the late summer 
shows, where classes are invariably provided 
for them. In July and early August there 
were but few Apples staged, because they 
were so under-sized. By mid-August, how¬ 
ever, much advance had been made in size, 
and numbers staged—indeed, the competition 
seemed as keen as in years of greater plenty. 
Lord Suffield, Warner’s King, Eeklinville, 
The Queen, Lord Grosvencr, and Peasgood’s 
.Nonsuch are six favourites for the summer 
exhibition—most of them autumn and early 
winter Apples. 

It has .been remarked how small are the 
fruits this year, and how indifferent their 
general characters, especially as regards 
orchard crops. Such facts give rise to mixed 
thoughts bearing on the prospects of the 
winter stocks and autumn exhibitions. There 
certainly cannot be the same full stores as 
are remembered in past seasons. 

This year has boon remarkable for the 
reat number of insect foes of many kinds, 
’hero would seem to be no limit cither to 
their numbers or variety, and, presumably, 
there were some rare or unfamiliar species 
which attracted the attention of the casual 
observer. From the dripping nature of the 
eeason insecticides lost much of their potency, 
demanding such frequent repetition that 
one’s patience seemed exhausted. The change 
from rainstorm to sunshine and a higher tem¬ 
perature will tend to increase the size of 
fruit now in active growth. Already this is 
apparent in many sorts, especially the larger 
cooking varieties. Medium, rather than large, 
samples necessarily satisfy in the case of 
dessert Apples, the greater gain in these 
being evenness of fruit and highly coloured 
skins. Tims far there is not much apparent 
prospect of ruddy-cheeked fruits, though 
there is time for winter kinds to improve yet, 
and which they appear to do. Not.only were 
trees badly defoliated by insect attacks in 
early summer, but there was an extreme 
paucity of growth until the summer had well 
advanced. Those who practised early sum¬ 
mer pruning found that there was but little 
demand for the knife at the usual time, but 
those who primed in August found a quick 
response in lateral development as the season 
advanced. There was but little real gain in 
early summer pruning this year, not onlv in 
respect of Apples, but other fruits also. The 

Digitized by Google 


change of weather in September may be taken 
as an assurance of a brighter prospect for the 
next year’s crops- than could have been ex¬ 
pected had the showery and sunless summer 
extended indefinitely into autumn. Certainly 
the outlook has much improved. 

W. S. 


SOME LATE PLUMS. 

Where space exists for their culture, some 
provision should be made for late Plums, 
either for dessert or cooking, or both. There 
is a fairly comprehensive assortment, which 
may be chosen for autumn bearing—quite 
enough, in fact, for every class of cultivator, 
though no one needs a long list for late 
gathering. Probably the finest of all the late 
dessert Plums i3 the over-popular Coe’s 
Golden Drop. There is a sport—Coe’s 
Violet—differing only in having purple line3 
extending lengthwise through the skin, the 
flavour and season being the same. Late 
Orange is a comparatively new kind, and, 
when well-grown, is a magnificent Plum, 
colour and size both attractive. This, like 
the preceding, is vigorous in growth. Reine 
Claude de Bavay is a very finely flavoured 
Gage, ripening in October, and keeping well. 
Bryanatone’s Gage is similar in appearance, 
but is less juicy, and is a free stone, while the 
other is a cling stone. Blue Imperatrice I 
have discarded, as the fruits are small, and it 
so soon shrivels, once ripe. In a shrivelled 
state the fruit only appeals to the connoisseur. 
Coe’s Late Red is an old favourite, as it con¬ 
tinues the season so late, and the fully- 
ripened fruits are very refreshing. I have 
usually no difficulty in keeping these until 
mid-November, a time certainly when soft 
fruits are scarce. Archduke as an early Oc¬ 
tober Plum has but few rivals, its outline, 
depth of bloom, black skin, and good flavour 
making it a distinct favourite. Similar, 
though somewhat- lefe handsome, is Grand 
Duke, always a free and regular bearer, and 
of good, brisk flavour. This ripens in Octo¬ 
ber. Golden Transparent is an attractive 
late Plum, its title describing its character. 
It belongs to the Gage section. Primate, one 
of Messrs. Rivers’ new Plums, ranks as a 
high class October variety, having a purple- 
red skin and fine flavour. Autumn Compote 
should not be omitted, for it is one that I 
have grown for many years, the flavour being 
excellent. 

The foregoing list embraces must of the 
better late autumn Plums. Of course, what 
everyone has to remember is .that Plums 
for other seasons demand their complement 
of space, and when this is done, there is not 
everywhere room for extensive selections for 
late use. As the season for ordering and 
planting of Plums is now with us. it is well 
to estimate one’s present supply for all sea¬ 
sons, and correct any shortcomings which 
may occur; and while it is quite admissible to 
plant for summer such as Kirke’s, Jefferson*«, 
Victoria, and similar kinds, it is \vise also to 
remember the autumn when Apples and Pears 
only are plentiful. No mistake can be made 


in planting any of the foregoing late Plums, 
ana the earlier they are established, the 
better are the prospects. W. S. 

THE R.H.S. FRUIT SHOW. 

The great interest centred in the annual 
fruit exhibition of the R.H.S. seems not to 
diminish in the least, judging both from the 
extent of the competition and the attendance 
of the public. It is, however, no matter for 
wonder that this should be so, because fruit 
of such fine quality is only presented for 
public view once each year in London, and 
nowhere in the provinces could such an ex¬ 
hibition be expected. The season has been 
looked upon os one providing but 6cant crops 
of Apples and Pears, taking the country as a 
whole, but no one visiting the Horticultural 
Hall on October 17th and 18th would con¬ 
sider the year 1907 deficient of fruit products. 
Taking tne exhibition as a whole, there 
would not appear anything which stood out 
conspicuously above that noted in other 
years; but then it would, perhaps, be diffi¬ 
cult to inaugurate anything that- might be 
claimed to be new or original in fruit shows 
What was so interesting from a grower’s 
point of view was the trade exhibits, for here 
was such an exhaustive collection of kinds 
that anyone in quest of information may, 
by careful research, often find the variety lie 
wants. Messrs. Bunyard and Co., of Maid¬ 
stone, added another success in securing the 
gold medal of the society for 200 dishes, re¬ 
presenting nearly as many kinds of fruit, 
Apples and Pears predominating. They 
were staged, too, in such quantities of 
selected fruits, and of such high quality and 
colour, that the exhibit vied almost with 
flowers in colour tones. A few sorts that 
stood out conspicuously, either from unfami¬ 
liarity of name or other distinct character¬ 
istics were: Swedish Reinette, a striking win¬ 
ter Apple; Winter Queening, favouring a 
good type of Blenheim ; May Queen, Okera. 
a Pearmain shaped fruit, with striped 
salmon-coloured skin, pretty and distinct. 
The new Coronation seemed to favour Clias. 
Ross in outline and colour, but, we believe, 
it will be found a good and distinct Apple. 
Christmas Pearmain may be described as a 
glorified Ribston, which certainly ought to be 
a strong recommendation in its favour. 
Nanny was an attractive, firm-skinned fruit, 
like to a flattened Ribston ; Ross Nonpareil, 
an older sort, is still an attractive and good 
Russet. Sanspareil is a highly-coloured 
fruit. Cornish Gilliflower was seldom seen, 
though alwaya so much praised by con¬ 
noisseurs. Transparent de Croncel6 is an 
unfamiliar Apple, that was distinctly attrac¬ 
tive. Mrs. Barron, a large cooking Apple, 
resembles another good Apple, Tower of 
Glamis. Beauty of Stoke, a deep green coni¬ 
cal fruit, was remarked as desirable, as were 
also Baron Wolseley, Royal Jubilee, and 
Tibbett’s Pearmain. Messrs. J. Veitch 
and Sons’ exhibit was not competitive, 
but the quality of the fruit and the 
extent of the ’ collection warranted the 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
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468 


GARDENING ILL USTRATED. 


November 2, 1907 


award of a silver-gilt Hogg medal. There 
were really magnificent dishes of the finer 
varieties of Apples and Pears, notably 
Emperor Alexander, Scarlet Pearmain, King 
of Tompkins County (splendid), and War¬ 
ner’s Seedling (taking somewhat after 
Stone’s or Lodaington), were others that were 
noted. Withington Fillbasket was truly 
named, its size being immense. Rev. W. 
Wilks, a new cooking Apple, obtained, it is 
said, from a cross between Peasgood’s and 
Ribston Pippin, but which showed no resem¬ 
blance to either parent, had a pale, clear 
skin, quite distinct. It, however, appears to 
us an Apple of short season. Another Apple 
which will be remembered is King Harry, 
bv no means a new kind, but one showing 
high quality for autumn use. 

Something new in fruit exhibition came 
from the Hereford Grading Society. Boxes 
attractively packed for travel and sale were 
shown in various sizes. Such favourite 
kinds as Jacob's Seedling (syn. Lady Sude- 
ley), Warner’s King, Kirk’s Fame, Cox’s 
Pomona, Mere de Menage, Annie Elizabeth, 


Towers, Prince of Wales (much resembling 
Lady Downe’s). and Diamond Jubilee, per¬ 
haps the most distinct of all the newer 
Grapes. An exhibit of twelve market 
baskets from Mr. H. T. Mason, Hampton 
Hill, w r as distinctly a feature of the 
show. All the fruits w r ere of high 
quality and excellent in colour, and the 
grading so commendable. Cox’s Orange, 
Arlington, Claygate, Jacob’s Seedling, King. 
Newton Wonder, Queen, and Bismarck were 
some that we much admired. Messrs. Lax- 
ton, of Bedford; Cheat and Sons, Crawley; 
Canned, Swanlev; King’s Acre, Hereford; 
Charles Turner, Slough, among others, con¬ 
tributed to the wealth of the magnificent 
autumn show. Considerable spaee was filled 
by the class for hardy fruits, thirty dishes— 
not more than twenty of Apples and Pears— 
being allowed. To us tlirs class represented 
one of more than usual interest. The first- 
prize lot, from Colonel Borton, Maidstone, 
was attractively set up in shallow baskets. 
There were six varieties of Peaches, two of 
Plums, one Quince, one Cherry, and eight 



Plum President. 


Worcester Pearmain, and Pitmaston Pears, 
attracted attention by reason of the origi¬ 
nality of the scheme. Two extensive exhibits 
of fruiting trees in pots were noteworthy, 
these being shown by Messrs. Bunvard. of 
Maidstone, and Rivers, of Saw bridgeworth. 
It occurred to us that, were these groups of 
trees made central objects on the floor of 
the hall, they would not only break up the 
monotony of the table spaces, but would 
afford more agreeable scope for review. 
Much of the fruit thus grown was fine in size 
and colour, while again Plums and Pears in 
some varieties were only of quite ordinary 
merit. Messrs. Rivers, as usual, were well 
to the front with Plums, and in boxes some 
very fine produce was staged. Oranges, too, 
for which Messrs. Rivers are famous, gave 
an interesting touch of colour and variety. 
To us one of the most valuable of these 
pot-grown crops was late Cherry Guigne 
do Winkler, the fruits so fresh and summer 
like in colour and character. Fruit 
ing Vines, contributed by Messrs. Lane, 
showed the possibilities * of this phase 
of fruit culture. It was made the more in¬ 
teresting by reason of the inclusion of newer j 
sorts, such as Melton Constable, Appley 


of Pears, the remainder cooking and dessert 
Apples. Other exhibitors contributed more 
interesting variety, embracing Figs, Dam- 
sous. Filberts, and Cob-nuts, m addition to 
the fruits named in the first-prize lot. We 
do not remember having seen a keener con¬ 
test nor a better lot of representative fruit 
staged in this interesting class. 

'1 he collection of twenty-four, eighteen, 
twelve, and six varieties of Apples anti Pears 
respectively brought up a fine lot of the very 
best fruits, cooking as well as dessert, and 
the general opinion was that, considering 
the sunless nature of the season, both the 
colour and development in these fruits were 
astonishing. The single dish and county 
classes also proved the fitness of our climate 
for fruit-growing. It was worthy of com¬ 
ment that the county of Kent, so famed for 
its fruit, did not stand out so conspicuous in 
it j superiority on this occasion, Cambridge, 
Hereford. Sussex, Devon, and Dorset holding 
quite favourable comparisons in the high 
merit of individual as well as collective 
examples. 

Collections of choice dessert fruit were 
more than usually numerous. In Grapes, 
too, there was a spirited contest in every 


class, and some of the examples were of the 
highest quality, the berries of Muscat of 
Alexandria being in one case particularly 
highly coloured. Gros Colman, Gros Maroe, 
Black Hamburgh, Mrs. Pince, Madresfield 
Court, and Alicante were highly typical of 
these several varieties. Plums and* Peaches 
again were extremely numerous, and the 
quality very fine. 

PLUM PRESIDENT. 

Among the many varieties of Plums raised 
and distributed by Messrs. Rivers and Son, 
the one herewith figured occupies a foremost 
position as a late-keeping cooking sort, and 
that good feature, combined with its large size 
and handsome exterior, stamps it as being a 
most valuable variety either for the market 
or private grower to cultivate. At the ex¬ 
hibition of British-grown fruit recently held 
in the Horticultural Hall, Vincent-square, 
Westminster, some splendid examples of this 
Plum were shown in faultless condition, the 
bloom being so very intense as to almost hide 
the true colour of the skin, which is of a 
deep purplish hue. An idea of the shape of 
this Plum can be seen by looking at the illus¬ 
tration. The flesh is yellowish, firm, sweet 
when fully ripe, and parts freely from the 
stone. The tree is an excellent cropper. An 
award of merit was given to it by tne Fruit 
Committee of the Royal Horticultural Society 
on October 15th, 1895. 


NOTES AND 11EPL1ES. 

Vines In pots intended for forcing may be 
shortened to something like 6 feet, and placed 
close to a main south wall, the rods being 
tacked to the wall. They will not require so 
much water now, but must not be permitted 
to get dust-dry. The main thing now is to 
get the canes ripe and hard, as upon this 
depends the crop. Give them all the rest 
possible in a low temperature before forcing. 

Peach Gladstone.— Tilis is not much grown 
as yet, as far as my experience goes, but it is 
a variety that will be sure to be beard of 
more in the near future. Although not a well- 
shaped fruit, it attains a very large size, and 
this season it is nicely coloured, the flavour 
being all that can be desired. The tree grows 
freely ; in fact, a bit inclined to be rank, so 
that frequent transplanting is necessary while 
the tree is young. This is much better than 
any root-pruning for most young fruit-trees 
up to the sixth year from the bud.- J. 
Mayne. 

Plum Oullin s Golden Cage. Although not 
quite equalling the Green Gage in flavour, 
Oullin’s Golden Gage surpasses it both in 
size and fertility. It is also a constant bearer, 
for it is seldom the trees fail to yield a crop 
of fruit, particularly when they are given the 
protection of a wall or fence. Wall-trained 
trees also commence bearing when quite 
young without ill-effects following, and it is, 
without doubt, one of the best early-maturing 
Gages, either for large gardens or those of 
more modest dimensions. As already stated, 
the fruits are larger than those of the ordi¬ 
nary Green Gage, they are roundish-oval in 
shape, golden-yellow in colour, irregularly 
dotted, and marked with reddish-crimson on 
the exposed side, ami the surface is covered 
with a thin bloom. When fully ripe, the 
flesh is tender, juiev. and very luscious.— 
A. W. 

Fig border stones as a mulching.— 

When l-ecently at. Bicton I observed stones 
were used for keeping the roots of the Fig- 
trees cool. In the kitchen garden there are 
some large cold-houses for growing Peaches, 
Figs, and other fruit-trees. At the back of 
one was a narrow border, in which Figs were 
growing. The border was very sloping, and 
became very dry. To assist, this to retain 
moisture, Mr. Mayne bad used flint stones, 
about the 6ize of a man’s fist, to cover the 
border. Mr. Mayne told ine lie had found 
great advantage in using stones to keep the 
surface moist. Another merit they have is 
that they prevent the water running down 
this sharp surface. Added to this, they are 
clean. When the roots needed feeding this 
was done by using liquid-manure or sprink¬ 
ling artificial manure, washing it down to the 
roots.—J. C. 

Original from 


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UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 






Novemdek 2, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


469 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

ROSES. 

ROSE LA TOSCA IN AUTUMN. 

Few of the Hybrid Tea Roses will send up 
such wonderful growths as this from the base 
of the plants. Very often such growths will 
attain a height of 3 feet, crowned with an 
immense mass of bloom. As an autumn- 
flowering Rose, too, it merits notice, as may 
be seen by the group we show to-day, the 
photograph of which was taken in the* early 
days of October. In the bud and half open 
stage it bears some resemblance to. Viscoun¬ 
tess Folkestone. Where a good, bold bush is 
wanted, this Rose is very suitable. 


OCTOBER ROSES. 

Surely no one can remember such a glori 
ous autumn as the present one for its wealth 


Lernos; Countess Cairns, Millie Crenn, Mine. 
Leon Pain, and, possibly, Florence Pember¬ 
ton and William Shean. This tribe only re¬ 
quires now the addition of good creams and 
yellows and glowing crimsons to make it the 
most perfect group among all sections of the 
Rose. We naturally turn from Caroline Tes 
I tout to its rival, La France, and we ask our¬ 
selves, Shall we ever surpass this Rose in 
fragrance or in beauty of blossom when per- 
I feet? We have yet much to learn how to 
treat this old sort. I am inclined to think 
that it should be treated more as a China Rose, 
being very sparsely pruned and not over¬ 
manured, to obtain the perfect flowers. I have 
1 seen it lovely in cottagers’ gardens and allot¬ 
ments, where it has had but little care and 
I attention. 

We cannot mention La Fiance without | 
. naming the lovely blush-white sport, Augus- j 
1 tine Guinoisseau, or the deeper crimson-pink, 
Duchess of Albany. It is satisfactory to 


Jamin, Mina Barbunsou, La Tosca, and 
Elisabetli Kitto all seem to be related toMme. 
Abel Chatenay, and all splendid just now. 
Another well-known autumnal is Viscountess 
Folkestone. It is one of the oldest and one 
of the best j the huge creamy-pink blossoms 
are superb. For grouping with it one might 
very well plant Grand Due de Luxembourg, 
Konigin Carola, and Mrs. E. G. Hill, and a 
lovely quartette they would be. The Kil- 
larney section is also a most valued one ; even 
if the old sort is somewhat wanting in fulness 
and badly addicted to mildew, it compensates 
for this in its grand, elongated buds. Coun¬ 
tess of Annesley, Countess of Gosford, and, 
possibly, Gustave Grunerwald, would be con¬ 
sidered of Killarnev origin ; in any case, they 
would group together and provide a fine 
autumn effect. Mrs. W. J. Grant is, per- 
j haps, better in summer than autumn, but 
I there are some newer Roses of near relation¬ 
ship to it, such as Betty, Lady Ashtown, 



Group of Rose La Tosea, with Clematis (Sussex). 


of Roses. It seems as though summer has re¬ 
turned again ; indeed, many varieties are far 
better just now than they were in July. Of 
course, we miss the glowing and fragrant Ily- j 
brid Perpetuals—or, at least, the majority of 
them—but certain sorts, such as Louis Van ! 
Houtte, Victor Hugo. Alfred K. Williams, 
Ulrich Brunner, Ella Gordon. General 
Jacqueminot, Commandant Felix Faure, and 
that best of all crimsons, Hugh Dickson, 
will yield quite a fair number of good blooms 
even in October, especially from standards 
or dwarfs on the seedling Brier. But it is to 
the lovely Hybrid Teas, Tea-scented, Chinas, 
and Polyanthus that we look for wealth of 
blossom. How grateful we should be to Mons. ! 
Pernet Ducher for giving us Caroline Tes- | 
tout, an indispensable variety where effective j 
beds are desired, although we could wish it | 
had not the bad habit of folding its petals so 
ball-like in the centre. And what a bevy of 
grand descendants it has produced in Admiral 
Dewey, Marie Croibier, Gabrielle Pierrette. 
Irene, Marguerite Guillot, and Lucien de 

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know both of these retain the same sweet 
fragrance. All of these make charming 
standards or half-standards, and I would 
commend them for this purpose. In planting 
large beds of either tribe, Caroline Testout 
or La France, the opportunity should be 
j taken of utilising the climbing forms, as also 
j standards or half standards. Another favour- 
' ite Rose is Mine. Abel Chatenay. How showy 
are its tall sprays, bearing some five or six 
perfect blossoms, and shedding their fra¬ 
grance all around ! Like most Roses, it has 
its peculiarities. For instance, the plants 
are apt to become rather leggy, and need very 
careful pruning, for it will not do to cut the 
growths back hard as one would an Hybrid i 
Perpetual. The cutting back must be 
gradual, or, better still, the tall shoots bent 
half-moon shape. This will usually induce 
new growth from the base. 

With this Rose one might almost couple 
| the splendid Pharisoer, a variety that will, 
j perhaps, even rival Mine. Abel Chatenay. 

, Such sorts as Lady Battersea, Ferdinand 


i Dean Hole, and Earl of Warwick, that are 
I just now splendid. All who do not possess 
these Roses should make a point of adding 
them this autumn. Whether Richmond will 
prove superior in autumn to Liberty seems 
doubtful, for it has a tendency to change to 
magenta rather more marked than in the 
ease of Liberty. 1 think perhaps with age of 
plunt this will vanish ; if so, it will be in¬ 
valuable, for our high-coloured autumnals are 
rather scarce. General Maeartliur, Papa 
Gontier, Gruss an Sangerhausen, Warrior, 
George Laing Paul, Princess Bonnie, and 
Ma Tulipe are all useful, giving a touch of 
colour we much need. The most gorgeous of 
the crimson and scarlet Roses in autumn are 
to be found in the Chinas Fabvier and Cra- 
moisie-Superieur, with Princess de Sagan 
and Marquise de Salisbury added, which are, 
perhaps, more allied to the Chinas than the 
Teas or Hybrid Teas. Grace Darling has 
been particularly good this late season. 
Johanna Sebus all should get. It is a lovely 
6hade, after the style of Grace Darling, most 












470 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


November 2, 1907 


beautiful in its glowing rose-pink. Mine. 
Jules Grolez remains unsurpassed as our 
best rose-pink. Profuse in flowering and so 
neat in habit, with a sweet fragrance, this 
Rose is, without doubt, a sort to plant freely. 
Perhaps one should associate Camoens with 
this latter, for it is a similar showy rose-pink, 
only that the flowering is more like a Monthly 
Rose. 

Perhaps next to crimsons for autumn dis¬ 
play we feel the need of good yellows, al¬ 
though in Mme. Ravary and Le Progrce we 
have two valuable sorts which, if not golden- 
yellow, nevertheless approach that shade. 1 
think the new Harry Kirk will be a grand 
addition to this colour. Perle des Jaunes, 
Mrs. Peter Blair, L/ena, Mme. Chedanne 
Guinoisseau, among the Teas, and Gold- 
quelle, Frederick Harms, and Goldelse, 
among the Hybrid Teas, are all good. There 
are several Roses of apricot hue, but what we 
want are good Marechal Niel yellows on 
dwarf plants. At present the best true yel¬ 
lows are to be found among the climbing 
sorts. Whore this colour is specially desired, 

I would advise planting them as standards. 
Sorts such as Duchesse d’Auerstadt, Henri- 
ette de Reauveau, Mme. Barthelcmy Levet, 
Bouquet d’Or, Billiard et Barre, are splen¬ 
did in this way, and they give that colour 
which every Rose garden needs. The 
Kaiserin Augusta Victoria race are beautiful 
autumnals, where they will grow, which is 
not everywhere. T think a well drained, 
somewhat light, soil and warm aspect are best 
suited to this group. Mrs. David McKee is 
n fine addition to this section, and Perle Von 
Godesburg at times reveals a distinct golden 
centre. The salmon-orange and ochre shades 
of colour are well represented in Paul Lede, 
Joseph Hill, and Mme. Eugenie Boullet, and 
extremely beautiful they are, whilst the 
orange centres and paler outer petals are best 
seen in Mme. Charles de Luze, Senateur 
Belle, and Simon Beaumez. Souvenir du 
President Carnot still survives the competi¬ 
tion of novelties, but if at times it resembles 
Souvenir de Malmaison there is no question¬ 
ing its more perfect finish. In Prince de Bul- 
garie we seem to have a Souvenir du Presi¬ 
dent Carnot with an apricot centre, and bet¬ 
ter grower. Mme. Edmee Metz has all the 
good points of a true garden Rose. There is 
also that lovely long-budded Rose, Gustave 
Regis, which is as popular to-day as ever it 
was. I cannot omit naming Antoine Rivoire 
and Clara Watson, which should be found in 
every garden. Chinas and Polyantha Roses I 
must defer to another issue. Rosa, 


MANURING ROSES FOR EXHIBITION. 

(Reply to J. P. Kaiser.) 

You appear to have very fair success as far 
as producing good Roses is concerned. It 
does not always follow that those who grow 
the best blooms obtain prizes, because so 
much depends upon the selection of the 
flowers and the manner in which they are 
put up. so that the judges see them in the 
very pink of perfection. In order to com¬ 
pete successfully nowadays, one must not 
only possess good sorts, and grow them well, 
but there should also be a considerable num¬ 
ber of each variety to cut from. From 150 
or so plants we should hardly expect to be 
successful at a good Rose show. You need 
to have many more than this, and a number 
of “maideu” plants as well. These are, as 
you may know, plants budded the previous 
summer. If you have a piece of land to 
spare, we should advise you to plant out 300 
or 400 rooted Brier cutting stocks next Feb¬ 
ruary, and bud them yourself with twenty to 
thirty of each of the leading exhibition sorts, 
especially of such sorts as Bessie Brown, Mil¬ 
dred Grant. Mrs. W. J. Grant, Duchess of 
Portland, Ulster, and the like, that give their 
best blooms from maiden plants. 

We certainly approve of your idea of dress¬ 
ing the beds with manure, but we should 
apply it in November, unless there should be 
frost. Cow, horse, and pig manure mixed 
would be capital stuff. Dig this just under 
the surface after pruning. As to the applica¬ 
tion of the chemicals, most Rose-growers 
apply what is known as Tonk’s manure. This 
is identical with your recipe, excepting that 
sulphate of potash (saltpetre) is used instead 

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of kainit. A dressing of this mixture applied 
at the rate of \ lb. to the square yard, after 
the other manure has been turned in, would 
be beneficial. This can afterwards be hoed 
intj the soil. 

As to feeding later on with liquid manure, 
only inspection of the plants could deter¬ 
mine this. In May and June, as soon as 
flower-buds are seen, exhibitors usually feed 
their Roses with liquid-manure about once a 
fortnight, each plant that is vigorous receiv¬ 
ing about 15 gallons—of course, diluted. A 
small bag of soot thrown into the manure tub 
or tank would be beneficial. After each 
watering, give the land a good hoeing. 

Another season it might be advisable to 
give the land a dressing of lime during the 
winter. This counteracts any injurious 
effect likely to follow a somewhat heavy 
manuring. It is well to change the manure 
each season, using some bone-meal instead 
of farmyard manure; and after three or four 
years have the plants transplanted, discard¬ 
ing the weakest, and replacing with healthy 
young plants. 

You are well advised in obtaining the new 
Roses you mention, excepting Barbarossa. 
This may be good, but we have not yet seen 
it, and do not hear a good account of it. 
David IIarum is a good show bloom, but a 
poor grower. Freiherr Von Marschall you do 
not require, and Hu^h Watson is of little 
value. Mrs. Myles Kennedy is superb, and 
Lady Helen Vincent very fine. Lady Ash- 
town, Florence Pemberton, Hugh Dickson, 
Dean Hole, and Dr. Wm. Gordon are, splen¬ 
did new Roses, which you should add if you 
do not yet possess them. 


NOTES AND EEPLIES. 

Raising Briers from seed (Staffordshire 
Potteries ).—The pods must not be allowed to 
get dry. Stick the stalk end into some damp 
sand placed in pots, and stand on a shelf in 
the greenhouse or pit free from frost. Then, 
in January, prepare some 5-inch pots by half¬ 
filling them with well-broken crocks, then fill 
up with sandy soil, consisting of sifted loam 
and sand. Press this firmly, and sow seeds 
about % inch deep, and as much apart. 
Plunge the pots in ashes up to their rims in 
a cold frame, protecting them from severe 
weather. Usually the seedlings appear in 
eight or ten weeks. As soon as they show 
their third leaf, prick off into small pots, and 
return to the pit, keeping them near the glass. 
Do not water them much, or they will damp 
off. Care must be taken to afford plenty of 
air on all favourable occasions. About June 
you may plant out the little seedlings. See 
also the article on p. 458 on “Rose seed.” 

Rose Louis Van Houtte. —Were this grand 
old Rose but as free as Liberty or Richmond, 
what an invaluable variety it would be, for 
there is no rich crimson Rose in autumn that 
can surpass it in quality of blossom or in 
colour. Grown on the seedling Brier, it is 
especially good, giving really fine blossoms 
right into October, and much more freely 
than the majority of the misnamed Hybrid 
Perpetual. It is almost a failure on Manetti, 
although growing fairly well the first season 
as a maiden plant; but I would advise all 
who plant this old Rose to procure it on the 
Brier. For aiding the late flowering of a 
Rose, the seedling Brier is wonderfully use¬ 
ful, far more so than the cutting Brier, as the 
long, tapering roots of the seedlings search 
the subsoil for nutriment and moisture, 
which tend to keep growth very active. We 
have now (October loth) such sorts as Alfred 
K. Williams and Victor Hugo wonderfully 
fine. It is true they are maiden plants, but 
Louis Van Houtte has been grand on cut back 
plants. I am not much in favour of mingling 
the II.P. Roses with the Hybrid Teas and 
Teas, but an exception would be made in the 
case of Louis Van Houtte and Victor Hugo, 
for they are undoubtedly almost as free as a 
Hybrid Tea.— Rosa. 


“ The English Flower Garden and Home 

Grounds .*’—New Edition, 10th, revised, vrith descrip¬ 
tions of all the best plants, trees, and shrubs, their 
culture and arrangement, illustrated on wood. Cloth, 
medium Svo, 15s.; post free, 15s. 6d. 

'‘The English Flower Garden" may also be 
had finely bound in 2 Mils,. half vellum, 2Us. nett. Of 
all booksellers. 


GARDEN PESTS AND FRIENDS. 


NOTES AND EE PLIES. 

Raspberries failing.-You were kind enough 
some time ago to advise upon the failure of my 
Raspberries (Superlative), my account of the cultiva¬ 
tion of which seemed satisfactory. You were unable 
to suggest a cure, beyond saying that the roots were 
diseased, which was the case. They have now', for the 
second season, quite failed, and, indeed, have almost 
disappeared. I now enclose a specimen of the young 
growth, which is evidently diseased.—R. D. O'Brien. 

[There is no sign of any pest, either insect 
or fungus, on the Raspberry shoots, but, from 
all appearance, there is evidently something 
wrong with the roots. As this is the second 
year that the plants have failed, I should 
destroy them, and plant some other crop 
where they have grown.—G. S. S.] 

Caterpillars on Chrysanthemum leaves— 

I am enclosing some caterpillars which I have found 
attacking my outdoor Chrysanthemums. They ap¬ 
pear to be gregarious in their habits. I shall be 
much obliged if you will inform me of what insect 
they are the caterpillars? 1 suppose there is no other 
remedy than hand picking?—H. E. M. 

[The caterpillars attacking your Chrysan¬ 
themums are those of one of the moths be¬ 
longing to the family Noctuidce, but they are 
very young, and I cannot be sure of their 
name. Spraying the plants with an arsenate 
of leadwash is, short of picking them off by 
hand, the best remedy, as it renders the leaves 
poisonous to them.—G. S. S.j 

Caterpillars on Plum and Pear trees - I en- 

ciose two kinds of Caterpillars which I have found 
attacking the leaves of my Plum and Pear-trees. 
They cause unsightly blotches on the leaves, and I 
shall be much obliged if yon will Inform me of what 
insect they are the caterpillars?—H. E. M. 

[I could only find one kind of caterpillar in 
the box with the Pear leaves. It was the 
larva of a small moth, but I cannot tell you 
its name. It was not, however, the perpetra¬ 
tor of the mischief. The leaves had evidently 
been attacked by the grubs of the Pear saw- 
fly (Eriocampa limacina). The grubs fall 
from the trees when they are full grown, 
bury themselves in the ground, and become 
chrysalides in an oval cocoon about 3 inches 
from the surface. The ground where the 
grubs are likely to have fallen should be re¬ 
moved to the depth of 3 inches, and it should 
be burnt, buried deeply, or spread about 
where poultry can pick it over. When the 
grubs are feeding on the leavee the latter 
should be sprayed with a solution of paraffin 
emulsion, or an arsenate of lead-wash. The 
latter wash is very poisonous, and should not 
be used within four weeks of gathering the 
fruit.-G. S. S.] 

Insects in Pansy-bed — I am sending some in¬ 
sects which infest my Pansy-bed. Can you tell me 
what they are and how to destroy them?—G. W„ 
Oldhead. 

[The creatures infesting your bed of Pan¬ 
sies are of three kinds. The* long, yellow ones 
arc one of the centipedes (Geophilus longi- 
cornis); these belong to a carnivorous family, 
and should not attack the roots of plants. 
They are, however, often found at the roots 
of dying plants, and it is rather an open 
question whether they are the authors of the 
injury or have been feeding on the culprits. 
The long, dark specimen was one of the snake 
millipedes, belonging to the genus Julus. The 
snake millipedes are, undoubtedly, very in¬ 
jurious to the roots of plants, and so are the 
woodlice, which were also in the box. These 
creatures may be trapped by laying pieces of 
slate, tiles, bricks, or boards on the ground 
where you think the pests arc. They should 
be turned over every morning and replaced, 
as the millipedes, etc., often hide under such 
things at night. Vaporite worked into the 
ground is said to destroy all insects, etc., 
which may be in the soil.—G. S. S.] 

Red-spider on Peach tree (G. II'.).— There is no 
better cure for red spider than plenty of water 
forcibly applied with a syringe or garden-engine. If 
this is done twice daily the spider will soon be cleared 
off. Dissolve I lb. of soft 6oap in 6 gallons of water, 
adding a 60-sized potful of sulphur, first mixing this 
into a kind of paste before adding it to the soap 
water. Syringe the tree well with this. 

Mealy-bug on Rose (Barnstaple).-Syringe the 
plant forcibly with a mixture of soft-soap and paraffin 
to 3 gallons of water applied warm. See that you 
keep the paraffin well mixed, putting every alternate 
syringeful back into the can. Perseverance will be 
necessary, more especially If other plants growing 
close by'are also attacked by the same trqublesome 
[ pest. 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



November 2, 1907 


GARDENING ILL USTEALED. 


471 


INDOOR PLANTS. 

EXHIBITING CARNATIONS. 

At the late Shrewsbury Show everyone was, j 
I am sure, glad to note" (with the exception of j 
one solitary exhibit) the absence of the 
"paper collar,” and to 6ee these popular and 1 
lovely flowers shown, as they should always 
be shown, with long stems, accompanied by 
their own buds and foliage (to my mind even 
Gypsophila. is out of place). Some blooms had 
their stems wired, which should not be i 
allowed ; and many had their calyces tied 
with raffia. But how different these flowers | 
were t-o the so-called dressed blooms, which 
one sees at so many shows. Who with any ' 
taste could look at a board of blooms, rnuti- | 
lated and shown, or, rather, with the excep¬ 
tion of the petals, hidden behind a lot of cir- | 
eular white cards, after seeing the beautifully 


Carnations I tried many of them, of course, 
in the border. They have gone. Those which 
did exist for a sea-son or two refused to give 
me even a passable bloom. Only let Carna¬ 
tions be shown with a stem at least a foot 
in length, and let there be a rule that in all 
classes for border Carnations the plants must 
have been grown in the open ground, then we 
may have some guarantee that the plants 
from which the blooms have been cut are in 
the true sense of the word “Border Carna¬ 
tions.” The Shropshire Horticultural Society 
does encourage the type of flower that we 
want for our gardens, and I hope other socie¬ 
ties will follow their lead. 

If raisers of border varieties would strive 
more to obtain a class of flower of good con¬ 
stitution, with firm, strong stem, and non¬ 
bursting calyx, and not devote all their atten¬ 
tion to colour and form of petals, we might 
soon hope to see the last of paper collars, 



Part of a group of Tree-Carnations at Shrewsbury Show. 


arranged groups at Shrewsbury? When shall wire, rings, and tweezers, which are only 
we see the last of these abominations? It is used to hide defects. 


impossible for anyone to form an idea what 
sort of a plant a dressed bloom came off, but 
if a good length of stem is shown the calyx 
can be seen, and there is some chance of judg¬ 
ing of the habit, of the plant. I wonder how 
many gardeners have got into trouble for fail 
ing to keep alive in the border, Carnations 
which pass as “border” Carnations, but 
which have, as a matter of fact, been grown 
entirely in pots and flowered under glass. 
These weak-constitutioned plants, with their 
limp stems and bursting calyces, arc shown 
on paper collars ; visitors to the show are 
taken by thejr bright colouring, and are told 
they are “border” Carnations. They order 
plants, and their gardeners (they have my 
sympathy) have to struggle with them. Some 
may live in a favourable soil and situation, 1 
but few will give a flower that is worth look- j 
ing at. When I commenced to grow border 


The illustration we give shows part of the 
group of Tree-Carnations put up by Mr. A. F. 
Dutton at the Shrewsbury Show. The illus¬ 
tration gives but a poor idea of the exquisite 
beauty and light arrangement of the exhibit. 

DlANTHl'S. 


NOTES AND BE PLIES. 

Treatment of Ivy leaved Pelargoniums.— 

Will you please explain how I should now treat Ivy¬ 
leaved Pelargoniums, which I wish to grow into large 
plants trained round circular trellises, about 3 feet to 
4 feet high, for setting in beds next May or June? I 
have a heated greenhouse. I never can get my 
cuttings to grow sufficiently big before the summer is 
nearly over, even for window-boxes. Should the 
plants be well forced on by feeding all through the 
winter, or would it be better to keep some of the 
present plants growing on now, with little or no 
pruning, for the trellises and early box work?— 
It. QUEEN. 

[You are, apparently, under the impression 


that the large specimens of Ivy-leaved Pelar¬ 
goniums that one meets with put out in 
flower-beds during the summer are the pro¬ 
duct of a single season’s growth; but this 
is far from being the case, as many of them 
are several years old. The only tiling you 
can do now is to take care of your largest 
plants, just wintering them in a quiet state 
in the greenhouse; then, early next March, 
give them a good shift into larger pots, and 
encourage them t-o grow away freely. No 
stimulant should be given to the plants till 
the pots are well furnished with roots, and 
even then it must not be applied during the 
winter. No pruning whatever should be 
done, as your object is to get plants as large 
as possible, and no purpose is served by cut¬ 
ting a part of them away. Those intended 
for window-boxes should have their straggling 
shoots shortened back.] 

Jacobinia chrysostephana.— The more 

one sees of this handsome greenhouse-flower¬ 
ing pla-nt the more surprising it is that some 
time after its introduction, in 1870, it should 
have almost dropped out of cultivation, till a 
few years since, when it has become very 
popular. This Jacobinia was first known as 
Cyrtanthera chrysostephana. It is a plant of 
a half shrubby character, a feature common 
to many other members of the order Aean- 
thaeese, to which it belongs. Cuttings of the 
growing shoots strike root readily in the early 
spring months, and the plants grow freely 
in a warm greenhouse temperature in a mix¬ 
ture of loam, leaf mould, and sand. They 
may be stopped once or allowed to grow up 
without check, but. in any case, it must be 
remembered that the stout shoots produce 
the finest heads of blossoms, so that no more 
pinching than necessary should be resorted 
to. This Jacobinia is, perhaps, seen to the 
best advantage when a plant in a 5-inch or 
6-inch pot is carrying three good heads of 
blossoms. They are of a somewhat curved, 
tubular shape, and disposed in such a man¬ 
ner as to form quite a terminal crown. The 
colour is bright golden-orange, a tint which 
shows up in a conspicuous manner during the 
dull, half-light so often experienced in late 
autumn and winter. Throughout the sum¬ 
mer no artificial heat will .be needed for its 
successful culture, and the temperature of a 
greenhouse is quite sufficient for it at this 
season. It is seen at its best when a score 
or more of plants are arranged in a group. 
X. 

Asparagus Sprengerl.— This is one of the 

most useful of the many varieties of Aspara¬ 
gus that are now in so much request for fur¬ 
nishing and cutting, for, with ordinary care, 
it may be kept for a long time in good con¬ 
dition. I find that the plants succeed best 
in fairly large baskets. In starting them, the 
baskets should be first lined with Moss, and 
then a good layer of the best potting soil that 
can be procured. Rather stiff loam suits the 
fleshy roots of this plant. A moist atmos¬ 
phere and shade from bright sunshine are 
necessary to luxuriant growth. When the 
baskets are full of roots the best plan is to 
take the baskets down about twice a week 
and soak them in a soft-water tank, hanging 
them up out-of-doors to drip before return¬ 
ing to their position.—J. G., Gosport. 

Agapantluis umbellatus Mooreanus. — One 
notable feature of this distinct variety of the African 
Lily, illustrated ori pane 410, apart from its hardiness, 
is the fact that it goes absolutely to rest during the 
winter—that is to say, it disappears completely below 
the ground, but pushes up vigorously in the spring. 
On the other hand, the common African Lily and most 
of its varieties have the crown visible at all seasons, 
and the leaves do not wholly die off. I raised a 
quantity of A. Mooreanus from seed, and find that 
there is a good deal of difference in the colour of the 
blossoms, and also in the contour of the flower-heads, 
some being more globose in character than others.—»• 
A. 

Adiantum cuneatum in large pots — Re¬ 
cently I saw large plants of this Maiden-hair in lU-inch 
pots. The plants were raised up, the fronds droop 
ing in a natural way produced a fine effect. Plants of 
Adiautum cuneatum are useful in the autumn and 
winter for furnishing when grown thus and given 
cold treatment. 1 have found nothing more useful at 
theso seasons, seeing they stand a long time from 
having abundance of well-ripened fronds. Equally 
useful are small plants for grouping, edging, etc. If 
these, when past their best, are removed to a cold 
place, kept somewhat dry, then cut over just beforo 
growth begins, any insects, etc., can be removed, and 
a fine clean growth follows. It is a mistake to repot 
too frequently. When in good soil and in large pots, 
the plants, if carefully fed, will go on for many years. 


Digitized by GOOglC 


UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 











472 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


November 2, 1907 


CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

SEASONABLE NOTES. 

Blooms are damping very much this season; 
so much so, in fact, that at the recent Crystal 
Palace Show of the N.C.S. one of the leading 
exhibitors had brought duplicate blooms of 
each of those he intended to set up. There 
was abundant evidence in several of the 
blooms of blemishes caused bv damping. To 
obviate this, growers should take every pre¬ 
caution to keep their plants in as satisfac¬ 
tory a condition as circumstances will allow. 
It cannot be denied that the cool and moist 
weather of the past summer is almost en¬ 
tirely responsible for the damping that is 
now taking place. The growths have never 
thoroughly ripened as they invariably do in 
a normal season. We have seen many in¬ 
stances of immature wood, and, with material 
of this kind, it seems hopeless to expect to 
produce large, deep, and handsome blooms. 
Extreme care must be taken in the ventila¬ 
tion of the house; no haphazard treatment 

ill suffice. The bottom and side ventilators 
should be promptly closed, and the hot-water 
pipes maintained in a warm condition. We 
should be disposed to maintain the tempera¬ 
ture at from 50 deg«. to 55 dogs., keeping 
nearer the. latter figure during spells of very 
damp and foggy weather. The top ventila¬ 
tors should always bo kept open, though, 
perhaps, to a less extent in foggy weather. 
Watering should be done in the forenoon, 
and be careful not to spill any on the floor 
of the house. 

Feeding may be carried on still, but the 
greatest care should be taken that the 
manure-water is not too strong. The use of 
stimulants, such as nitrate of soda and sul¬ 
phate of ammonia, should be avoided as 
much as possible. Stimulants often en¬ 
courage damping of the blooms, especially 
when the wood is soft and immature. We 
would be disposed to avoid using stimulants 
this season, making an exception, perhaps, 
in the case of a few buds that are rather 
Inter than usual. Even in such cases, the 
depth of the blooms must suiter, so that we 
are disposed to ask ourselves whether it is 
really desirable to turn stimulants in any cases 
during the present season. See that the 
flowers are maintained in an upright position. 
A lop-sided bloom is of little value, as any 
judge would quickly detect the want, of even¬ 
ness, even though the better side faced the 
front. Shading continues to be an all-im¬ 
portant item, and those who took the precau¬ 
tion to erect a scrim canvas or tiffany shading 
on the inside of the glass roof of the green¬ 
house may now take full advanatge of the 
help such undoubtedly gives. This shading 
material should be drawn across as occasion 
arises, in this way shading the blooms from 
the direct rays of the sun. Permanent 
shading is a mistake in dull weather, as it 
excludes the light, and the flowers suffer in 
consequence. Shading erected on the inside 
of the glass roof can be drawn across at will, 
so that the flowers can have adequate pro¬ 
tection from the sun, and be drawn back 
again when the weather is dull and overcast. 
Dwellers in and around large towns may 
exclude dirt and dust from the greenhouse 
by tacking up tiffany inside the opening to 
the ventilators. It is astonishing what a 
great amount of dirty matter can be inter¬ 
cepted in this way. and white flowers may be 
kept clean right throughout the flowering 
period. By the same means it is possible to 
keep the greenhouse door open by making a 
tiffany screen to fit in the doorway. This 
lias been done, with great advantage to the 
plants and the flowers, too. Should the 
plants he unduly crowded, it were better, 
even at thi.s late period, to remove a few of 
the less satisfactory specimens to other quar¬ 
ters rather than to jeopardise the interests 
of the majority. Air should pass freely be¬ 
tween the plants, as this usaists ver}’ mate¬ 
rially to keep them in health, and to promote 
satisfactory conditions of plant life. Look 
over th'* blooms at least once each night for 
earwigs, caterpillars, etc., using a lantern 
for the purpose, and turning this unex¬ 
pectedly on each bloom in turn. In this 
way it may be possible to catch the depre¬ 
dators. Do not hesitate to fumigate the 
plants should thero be evidence of green fly 

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on cither foliage or flowers. There is no risk 
of damage being done to the blooms by fumi¬ 
gation when any well known and reliable 
preparation is used. Unless the green-fly 
and other insect pests are checked at the 
first, they will increase to such an extent as 
to disfigure and spoil the blooms. E. G. 


NEW JAPANESE CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 
Qoite recently several excellent new 
Japanese Chrysanthemums have been sub¬ 
mitted to the respective floral committees of 
the N.C.S. and R.H.S. Those of exhibition 
standard are the following • 

II. J. Jones (1908).- This is a large and 
handsome hlcom. of Japanese form, having 
long, broad florets of good substance, that 
loosely incurve, and build up a large flower. 
The colour is best described as rich golden- 
yellow, with a paler reverse to the florets. 
The N.C.S. awarded a-first-class certificate 
to this variety, October 14th last, an award 
of merit being also given by the R.H.S. floral 
committee on the following day. 

Mrs. L. Thorne.—I n this wo have a beauti¬ 
ful counterpart of the first mentioned variety 
in everything hut colour, and this may he 
described ns light canary-yellow. The florets, 
long and broad, of good .substance, build up 
a large and attractive bloom. A first-class 
certificate was awarded by the N.C.S. on 
October 14th last. 

Elsie Towers. —The first impression of 
this Japanese reflexed variety recalls the 
one-time popular Belle Panic, which it much 
resembles, though much superior. There is 
more colour in the new sort than in its ex¬ 
cellent prototype. The florets are long and 
of medium width, neatly reflexing and droop¬ 
ing, colour creamy-white, heavily edged and 
suffused with light-rose. 

William Petty. The colour in this 
flower is one that is seldom seen m the Chrys¬ 
anthemum, and is most attractive. Rich 
cream, suffused with light rose, and with a 
yellowish centre, aptly describes the colour 
of this Japanese reflexed novelty. The florets 
are very long, and pleasingly reflexed, making 
n beautiful exhibition bloom. The N.C.S. 
floral committee expressed a wish to *ee this 
variety again. E. G. 

NOTES AND REPLIES . 

Twelve good Japanese Chrysanthemums 
for bush plants (T . S. Tucker).— To grow as 
busli plants in pots, and not to exceed 5 fret 
in height, we recommend the following 
Japanese varieties : Soleil d’Oetohre, yellow ; 
Bronze Soleil d’Oetohre. bronzy fawn sport 
from the last named; Source d’Or, orange 
terra-cotta; Crimson Source d’Or, chestnut 
red sport from the last named; Market Red, 
metallic red, with bronze reverse; Money¬ 
maker, pure white; Viviand Morel, silvery- 
mauve pink; Ivory, pure white; Caprice du 
Printemps, rosy-amaranth, tipped white; 
Dazzler, crimson-scarlet; Lizzie Adcock, rich 
yellow, sport from Source d’Or; Kathleen 
Thompson, crimson-red, tipped gold; and 
Souvenir de Petite Amie, pure white. 

Six early Chrysanthemums to flower in 
late September (T. S. Tucker).- There arc 
numerous Chrysanthemums that w ill flower in 
the open border in late September, and 
among the better kinds are the following: 
Nina Bliek, reddish-bronze, very free, with a 
good habit; Horace Martin, a free-flowering, 
bright yellow sort; Goachcr’s Crimson, a 
beautiful chestnut-crimson, with golden re¬ 
verse; Improved Masse, a handsome mauve- 
pink sort, of excellent quality; Roi des 
Blancs, a pure white variety, of lovely form ; 
and Pollv, a beautiful bronzy yellow variety. 
—C. 

A new market Chrysanthemum, Mrs. 
Wakefield. Market grower*. on the National 
Chrysanthemum Society's floral committee 
showed a marked liking for this new Japanese 
variety when blooms were submitted to them 
for adjudication on October 14th last. The 
flowers are of a fine reflexed form, and of 
even build. The florets are of medium width 
and of sufficient length to build up u solid 
flower, that is borne on a goral length of foot¬ 
stalk. free from foliage—just wlmt the market 
grower likes. The colour has much to com¬ 
mend it, being a reddish rose, with a heavy 


bronze suffusion. A first-class certificate 
was unanimously awarded to this variety.— 
E. G. 

Japanese Chrysanthemum Kitty Rogers. 

—This is one of the brightest flowers we have 
seen for a long time. It is not an exhibition 
variety, ms the flowers are hardly large 
enough, hut the superb quality of the blooms 
when finished places them in the front rank 
of all flowers of this kind grown for market. 
The florets are very long and prettily twisted, 
and the colour is a distinct shade of very 
bright yellow. The N.C.S. floral committee 
have asked to see thi.s variety again.— 
A. R. H. 

Two good new October-flowering border 
Chrysanthemums. -The interest now taken 
in the early flowering border Chrysanthe¬ 
mums has to some extent relegated to the 
background the semi-early or late October 
flowering border kinds. We are all the more 
pleased, therefore, to welcome additions to 
the list of varieties flowering at this somewhat 
later period. Quite recently two such Chrys¬ 
anthemums were commended by the floral 
committee of the National Chrysanthemum 
Society, and deservedly bo. The first of these 
is named Bouquet Rose, which was classified 
as belonging to the new decorative type of 
the Chrysanthemum. The blossoms are of re¬ 
flexed form, and developed freely on plants 
possessing a good habit of growth. The 
colour of tlie flowers is deep-rose, slightly 
tipped yellow. The other variety is named 
Ethel Blades, and was commended specially 
as a border sort. The flowers, in undisbudded 
form, are much better than when they are 
disbudded. Glorious sprays of pure-crimson 
blossoms are produced in abundance, and, be¬ 
ing rather small and of good form, they should 
provide a wealth of decorative material in 
late October. The tone of crimson colouring 
is quite distinct.—W. V. T. 

New semi-early single-flowering Chrys¬ 
anthemums.— It is pleasing to record that 
the impetus given to the early-flowering 
singles last season has stimulated interest in 
these dainty flowers. Already we have seen 
several very excellent single flowered seedling 
Chrysanthemums that promise well, and these 
w ill b* classified as semi-early flowering varie¬ 
ties, n« distinct from those blooming in Sep¬ 
tember and earlier. Cinderella is a refined 
little flower of a blush colour, having narrow 
florets, slightly twisted, and neatly disposed 
round a bright-yellow disc. The growth is 
branching and the sprays free-flowering. A 
beautiful pale-fawn coloured kind, tinted soft- 
pink, is named Miss Kathleen Davies. The 
florets arc fairly long and of medium width, 
set round a small, deep yellow disc. A rich- 
crimson, small flowered sort is Godfrey's 
Gem, in which the florets are flat and rounded 
at the ends, and well disposed round a hriglit- 
yellow disc. The plant is extremely free- 
flowering. Countess Forteseue belongs to the 
large-flowered section, having blooms each 
some 3 inches in diameter. The florets in 
this case are of medium width, and the colour 
is a beautiful fawn, with pale-yellow base and 
deeper-yellow disc. This variety is richly i>cr- 
fumed. which adds to its charm. Lillie God¬ 
frey will be valued because of its pleasing 
soft mauve pink colour, which, contrasted 
with the yellow disc, makes a pretty spray. 
The flowers, without disbudding, are each 
about 3 inches across. Mrs. Earle is a large- 
flowered sort of a creamy-white colour, with a 
yellow disc. A large vase of this variety, 
cut from the open border, was staged, and 
the N.C.S. floral committee made a com¬ 
mendation in its favour. Wells’ Pride is 
another sort, belonging to the large-flowered 
section, and. as a border plant. should he 
very ii-eful. The colour is pale chestnut, with 
a yellow disc. A good red sort is J. II. 
Runchinan. The flowers, each rather more 
than 2 inches wide, ns set up in undisbudded 
sprays, were interesting.—C. A. H. 

Chrysanthemum Comtesse Toucher do 
Cariel This old variety in its shade of cH«*ur I 
have not seen equalled, ltsonly fault is that of be inn 
somewhat late to flower. The height of the plant is 
less than 2 feet. It. is naturally bushy, and the 
blooms open all at the same time. The colour is a 
bright dnrk-bronze or, as some term it. a terra-cotta 
shade. In a season like the present, when frosts have 
kept away so long, this variety ts now at its best, 
and pleases everyon^-H- S. 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



November 2, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


473 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 

THE TERRACE AT POW1S. 

The idea is very cumnion, unfortunately, 
that once given a situation with straight 
lines near a house, which, naturally, often 
occurs, we are bound to have some carpet or 
geometrical arrangement of the flowers, such , 
as we still see, indeed, at Kew and other 
important places. There could not be a 
greater error, because it condemns us to the 
stereotyped flower-garden, without light or 
shade and poor in colour and destitute of 
variety or form. The illustration shows a 
terrace oil a very sharp slope, which abso¬ 
lutely called for terracing; and it will be 
seen, we hope, that a picturesque border is 
not only tolerable in such a situation, but one 
of the he«t things we could have. In it wc 
get both striking form, beauty of colour, 


THE SPRING SATIN-FLOWER 

(SISYRINCHIUM GRANDIFLORUM). 
There are but few of the numerous species of 
Sisyrinchium recognised by botanists in cul¬ 
tivation in our gardens; but of these it can¬ 
not be said that any is equal in beauty to the 
Spring Satin-flower (Sisyrinchium grandi- 
florum), os it is popularly called. 

It comes into flower very early in the year, 
sometimes in February and March, and it 
may often be seen in bloom, its grassy leaves 
peering through the snow, and encircling its 
slender stems, from the top of which dangle 
the large purple bells, which have a lustre 
which attests the appropriateness of the 
name of “Satin-flower.” It has been In 
cultivation for a considerable time, but 
neither the ease with which it can be pro¬ 
cured from hardy plant dealers nor its beauty 
seem to have given it a passport into gardens 


within my knowledge in this country. Pos¬ 
sibly we cannot give it the natural conditions 
it enjoys in its own habitats—California, 
eastwards to the Rockies and Vancouver 
Island. It only remains to add, for the 
benefit of those who do not know S. grandi- 
florum, that its stems are from 6 inches to 
12 inches high. S. Arnott. 


STAR WORTS. 

W r H at a wonderful display of flowers these 
Staruorts have been affording during the past 
| five or six weeks, and, coming into bloom as 
most of the varieties do just when a great 
many subjects in the herbaceous border are 
past their best, they serve to considerably 
prolong the attractiveness of the hardy flower 
garden, and fill what would otherwise be a 
great void. Even now the display is net 
quite over, and if only favourable weather 



Borders of hardy flowers on a terrace at Powis Castle, Welshpool. From a photograph by G. A. Champion. 


light and shade, change, and life. Such an 
arrangement also leaves us free at any time of I 
the year we like to make improvements or 
changes. In such borders the main thing is ' 
to he very sure our plants are of the best 
quality, and to group, mass, and keep them 
together more than is usually done. 

Two annual Coneflowers These flutters appeal | 
to tho.~e who need masses of rolour in the garden. , 
One Coneflower that particularly appeal? to mo. he- j 
cause of Its dwarf habit and freedom ot flowering in j 
the late summer and autumn, i 3 the perennial K. New- | 
mini Another variety I have made the acquaintance 
of this year is Carter's It. bicolor superha. This was I 
sown in the open border in April, and in September 
the plants were all aglow with gold and crimson j 
flowers, not unlike French Marigolds, only much | 
larger. Some were double, but the majority were i 
single, these finding the most favour. Another new , 
kind easily raised from seed is Carter's Cactus | 
flowered, which is of similar colour—golden yellow 
and having maroon flakes. For cutting I find these 
excellent and long lasting, which cannot be said of 
all border flowers. The fact of being able to sow in 
the open and obtain a rich display of blossom in 
early autumn is a great guin^AViLTS. 


Gcx 'gle 


r.« a whole, although we have few more at 
tractive or characteristic flowers in its 
season. The white variety, S. grandiflorum 
album, is still less common ; but, beautiful 
though it is, it is not likely to supersede the 
purple form, whose colour is not of the 
aggressive purple we find 60 generally ob¬ 
ject cm l to. The white variety seems also to 
luck some of the substance of the other, and 
mm has found it not quite so easily estab¬ 
lished in one's garden. 

With a flower <so early as this, a worm 
situation in a rather light soil is preferable, 
but one does not find that it objects to a little 
shade, which, indeed, assists to prolong its 
blooms. Autumn planting is favoured by 
many, but personally I prefer to plant imme¬ 
diately after its flowering is over for the 
season. 

It is rather surprising that we have so few 
varieties of this pretty Sisyrinchium ; but I 
have never found seeds on my plants, nor 
does it increase by self-sown seeds anywhere 


conditions should prevail, the latest varieties 
I will extend the season for a week or so longer. 
This will mean a period of two months from 
the time the earliest sorts came into flower 
until the latest are over, which fact serves 
I but to accentuate the great value of these 
perennial Asters for garden decoration. Not 
only are they of great utility fur the last 
| named purpose, but they are also of intrinsic 
J value for household adornment in a cut state 
1 and rank among the best of outdoor autumnal 
flowers for creating fine effects when the ar 
ranging is carried out in a simple and taste 
ful manner. They are of such easy cultiva 
j tion that no garden should be without them 
when it is requisite to have the flower borders 
looking gay as late in the autumn as possible, 
j They are quite hardy, anything but difficult 
to propagate, as any piece of the root stpek 
i will grow if it has a shoot or two attached, 
j and provided they are well supplied with 
water during hit f dry 'weather, and kept 










474 

staked and tied after the growths are about 
a foot in height, they give no further trouble. 
Where uianv make a mistake in their cultiva¬ 
tion is in planting and leaving them alone for 
several years afterwards, with the result that 
each clump or plant becomes a thicket, of 
growths, mildew preys on the foliage, and the 
tlowers are small and of poor quality. To 
have them in the greatest perfection they 
should be lifted and divided either annually 
or biennially, and when the growths begin to 
push to thin them down to four or five to 
each plant or clump. If each growth is 
afforded a separate stake, and the staking 
carried out so that if there is one in the 
centre the remaining three or four, as the 
case may be, should be made to lean outwards 
from it, which not only affords ample space 
for flower development, but admits of magni¬ 
ficent heads being formed. This mode of 
training and tying shows the plants off to per¬ 
fection, and the grow ths being reduced as de¬ 
scribed above to but four or five, the energies 
of each plant are then concentrated on the 
production of extra fine panicles of bloom, 
the individual flowers then being large, clear 
in texture, and of the best quality. The 
flowers of Starworts grown under ordinary 
conditions are not to be compared with those 
yielded by plants cultivated in the manner 
indicated, either for size, depth of colour, 
and quality, also in the length and spread of 
the panicles, so that the little extra care thus 
needed to bring out their beauties to perfec¬ 
tion is time well spent, and affords gratifica¬ 
tion to all concerned. A. W. 


ANNUALS AS BEDDING PLANTS. 

One of the prettiest gardens that I have seen 
for a long time was filled with annuals of 
various kinds. There was not a single plant 
of any of the so-called “bedders ’ in it. 
There were Balaams, Asters of various kinds, 
fragrant Ten week Stocks, dwarf and climb¬ 
ing Troptcolums, Everlastings with their 
many curious tints, Grasses, and other things 
too numerous to mention. Roses here and 
there, with a few good, hardy perennials, 
completed the display, which was very in¬ 
structive, as it illustrated admirably the 
value of half-hardy annuals, and proved that 
a gay garden in summer is a possibility with¬ 
out the aid of those plants that are costly 
and troublesome to keep through the winter. 
The fact seems to be that the capabilities of 
annuals are known to but very few flower 
lovers. The primary outlay is small, the cul¬ 
ture is simple, and the results are out of 
proportion to the expense incurred. With 
the exception of the Zonal Pelargonium, an¬ 
nuals equal bedding plants in brilliancy, 
whilst they exhibit greater delicacy of tint. 
The soft shades of colour of Ten-week Stocks 
are particularly pleasing, and in Drum¬ 
mond’s Phlox we get great brilliancy as well 
as refinement of tint. Annuals are too often 
grown in a haphazard way. Sown thickly in 
pans, and left in them till the “tedders” are 
in place, they become drawn and spindly, 
and are then hastily consigned to positions 
that may want filling up. These are often 
in the impoverished soil in the foreground of 
shrubberies, where they cannot obtain a fair 
share of either moisture or nourishment. 
Asters with highly developed blooms, and 
Balsams 18 inches high, with proportionate 
lateral development, cannot be grown in this 
way. It is only in deeply-stirred, well- 
manured ground that the true characters of 
the plants are displayed. To those who have 
hitherto grown annuals in a haphazard way, 
the sight of them in the grounds of some 
large English or Continental seed-grower 
would he a surprise. Phlox Drununondi is 
for effect undoubtedly at the head of the 
others. It rune the Zonal Pelargonium hard 
for premier honours as a summer decorative 
plant ; indeed, it is only the very brightest 
tints of this bedding plant that can surpass 
the most pronounced tints of the Phlox. 
Drummond s Phlox is a host in itself, and 
every bit of good culture bestowed on it has 
its reward. The true nature of it is too 
often suppressed by a meagre diet. Tt wants 
plenty of good rotten manure, worked into 
the ground at planting time. Put this down 
to a depth of a foot, and von will have no 
reason to discard this annual for its fugacious 
character. If there is a summer-blooming 

Digitized by 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 

plant that needs generous treatment, it is 
this one. If it does, in a dry time, show- 
signs of exhaustion, give a top-dressing of 
some stimulant, and wash it well in, and you 
will get a good display of bloom up to the 
advent of frost. Give annuals the same good 
culture as bedding plants ; give them a place 
of honour instead of just using them as stop¬ 
gaps, and you will have no cause to complain 
of their want of effectiveness. It should, 
moreover, always be borne in mind that the 
same good treatment that gives perfect 
flowers ensures their remaining in beauty for 
a considerable time. C. 

PLANTING A HERBACEOUS BORDER. 

1 have been clearing u border, about 3U feet by 
10 feet, soil of fair quality, but rather heavy; aspect 
N.K., but still getting a fair amount of sun over the 
trees and buildings that lie to S.W. of it. Probably, 
it gets 25 per cent, of the sun it would get if it were 
open to tiie south. I want to make it into a lierbu 
eeous border, to give as much colour in summer and 
autumn us can be managed under the circumstances? 

— W. M. Cooper, boston, Lincolnshire. 

[If the position has been previously used 
for flower or vegetable growing, the ground 
will, in a measure, be suitable for the plant 
ing of the following subjects after it has been 
thoroughly trenched arid well manured. You 
say the soil is “rather heavy.” This will bo 
no drawback, provided the drainage is good; 
but if the ground is at all wet. or likely to 
be waterlogged in winter, you must first put 
this right by the necessary draining, etc. A 
heavy dressing of spent Mushroom-bed 
manure and sharp grit combined would assist 
materially to lighten the soil and render it 
more easily worked. This is, perhaps, more 
necessary on account of the aspect of the 
border, and, thus prepared, the plants should 
succeed quite well. 

In setting out the plants, you cannot do 
better than adopt the system of grouping— 
that is to say, arranging several plants of one 
kind at intervals over a ground space at 
planting time of 2 feet, 3 feet, or more. Such 
groups as these, when in flower, constitute 
imposing features in a large border, but the 
plan could not be carried out to any great 
extent in your case through lack of space. 

In the circumstances, therefore, we think 
you had better confine yourself to smaller- 
sized groups, say, of 2 feet, and these at 
flowering time will afford quite a good dis¬ 
play. With groups such as these some eight 
subjects would be sufficient in the back¬ 
ground, and such as Helenium nudiflorum, 
Lathvrus latifolius The Pearl. Helianthus 
multiflorus maximus. Aster Novte-Angliee 
W. H. Bowman, A. N.-A. pulchellus. Aster 
cordifolius major, Boeeonia cordata. and 
Pyre thrum uligmosum would be suitable. 
Additional colour could be bad by intro¬ 
ducing needling double or single Hollyhocks 
here, and there between the large groups, or 
by planting one or two pillar Roses, as. for 
example, Lady Gay or Crimson Rambler. 
The next set of groups should alternate with 
the first, using the following plants: Kui- 
phofia aloides, Spiraea venusta, Anchusa 
italica. Dropmore variety, Lathyrus latifolius 
rose us, Aster A returns, Heliopsis seaber, 
Astilbe Davidii, Lilium pardalinum, Helian- 
thus Soleil d’Or, Aconiturn Wilsoni, etc. The 
next line of groups should be of such things 
as Lobelia Queen Victoria, Lychnis chalce¬ 
donies, such herbaceous Phloxes as Mrs. 

E. H. Jenkins, Flambeau, Miss Pemberton, 
Virgo Marie, Eugenie Danzanvilliers. and 
Iris, Trollius Orange Globe, T. napellifolius, 
Rudbeckia purpurea, Campanula lactiflora. 
and a variety of Delphiniums in distinct 
shades. In the front row of groups, single 
and double Pyrethrums. Flag and other 
Irises, Campanulas of sorts, especially C. car 
patiea and C. persicifolia vara., Chrysanthe¬ 
mum laciniatum, Aster Ainellus, A. Rivers- 
lea, A. aeria, A. longifolius formosus, A. 
Novi Belgii densus, Gaillardias. Coreopsis 
grandi flora. Delphinium Belladonna, and 
others should be seen, while the margin could 
be made up of Pinks, Hepaticas, Phlox 
6 etacea vars., Megaseas, dwarf Campanulas, 
and other such things. For the front row- 
smaller groups of plants could be adopted for 
the sake of variety and for affording a longer 
season of flowering. Much of the effect of 
the border depends upon the disposal of the 
plants, while the addition of bulbous plants 
would also add an extended 6eason of 
flowering.] 


November 2, 1907 


XOTES AXD REPLIES. 

Tree or border Carnation lo the carload a 
Tree-Carnation? The stems glow high and send out 
shoots all the way up the stem. I have four or live 
plants like this in a large bed of seedling outdoor 
Carnations, and I cannot keep them dwarf like all the 
rest. I am told they are not " Tree," as these do not 
grow out-of-doors. The plant sent is a last year's 
seedling, and flowered well last year almost up to 
Christmas, and again this year, but forms no base 
Grass, only un the stems. I send a flower, which is 
only small, the usual ones being very perfect and 
large. The plants are out. unprotected all winter; 
soil light, rather slialey, in which Carnations do 
splendidly. Road scrapings and old mortar are added. 
Please advise me how to treat these to keep them 
dwarf like the other Carnations, also what the differ¬ 
ence is between Tree and garden Carnations?—C arna¬ 
tion. 

[The plant you send is a variety of the 
“Tree ’’-Carnation, which does not produce 
the procumbent shoots about the base uf the 
plant as does the “border” Carnation. The 
flower-stems of the border Carnation in¬ 
variably produce nothing but leaves and 
flower-buds, the plant being perpetuated by 
layering basal shoots or branches each year. 
In the Tree-Carnation a single stem i« first 
produced, and on this stem, at intervals from 
the axils of the leave**, small shoots appear, 
and these in time will flower if allowed to 
extend. The only way to keep these Tree- 
Carnations dwarf in your case would be to 
take some of the shoots that form on the main 
stems and treat them as cuttings. If you 
pull off some of the 3-inch long shoots, cut 
them across with a sharp knife just below a 
joint and insert them in sandy soil in a frame, 
a large number should form roots, and these 
will provide you with smaller plants for 
planting out next year. If you have a green¬ 
house with a little warmth, such cuttings as 
we have described will root in about a month 
if kept close, and, when rooted, the plants 
should be potted singly into 3 inch pots, and 
kept in a frame all the winter. If you have 
no heated structure, the cuttings will root 
quite well in a handlight, but should be in¬ 
serted about the middle of September. If 
inserted at once, the cuttings may root during 
the winter.] 

Iris reticulata bulbs diseased l endow; 
bulb* of lri» reticulata, one hundred of which were 
planted lust spring. When 1 lifted them in the sum¬ 
mer one-fourth were like the specimens K-nt. They 
were planted in good loam, sand, and leaf-mould, on 
a dry bottom on chalk. Can you give me any in¬ 
formation as to the cause?—J. U. 

[The bulbs are affected by the disease 
known as the “Iris bulb scab” (Mystro 
sporium adustum), a kind of black mould, 
which first forms on the outer sheath of the 
bulb, and gradually permeates the entire 
bulb. It is said, so long as the disease is 
external, that soaking the bulbs for two hours 
in a solution of one part formalin to three 
hundred parts of water will destroy the fun¬ 
gus: but when the disease has entered the 
bulbs, as in your case, you can only lift and 
burn them, taking care not to plant other 
bulbs in the same place. We regret to state 
that this fungus pest is becoming more wide¬ 
spread each year, and instances are known to 
us where the plant, once a comparative weed, 
cannot now be grown at all. The bulbs are 
most frequently attacked while in the dor¬ 
mant stage, and before the cultivator i« aware 
of it, his entire stock may have become 
affected.] 

Violets in frames — I have a small brick frame, 
in which, about a month ago, 1 planted Violets. Hud 
I best put on the lights at night or not ? I have done 
so when expecting very heavy rains, as the soil, being 
of a rather light texture, I was afraid that the plants 
may get too much washed out. Had I better put the 
liglits on at nights, giving all air possible?— Brid- 
1'ORT. 

[Not till frosts threaten should the lights be 
put on. early and, it may be. closely cover 
ing up Violets having a most enfeebling effect 
upon them. If the flower's do not come on 
quite so fast as desired, then may the lights 
be put on soon, but on no account keep them 
elo-scly shut other than during frosty nights. 
Merely blocking up the lights at the bac k is 
not sufficient. They ought to be drawn clear 
off on fairly mild and dry days, not only dur¬ 
ing the autumn, but throughout the winter. 
By all means protect them well from frosts, 
a*good covering of mat* and strawy litter 
being sometimes needed, but. though this is 
the case, it docs not follow that Violets ought 
to be treated so much like delicate exotics, as 
j they too often are. Avoid crowding and cod¬ 
dling, keep the plants uniformly moist at the 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



November 2, 1907 


GARDEJYING ILLUSTRATED. 


475 



roots, and the flowers will be abundantly pro- 
dueed till warm weather eete in.] 

Lilium auratum with fasciated stem.— i 

In January T planted a bulb which came 
direct from Japan as Lilium auratum. In 1 
May, when I returned from abroad, it was , 
2 feet high, with a wide, flat stem of about 
1$ inch and a tuft of gruon loaves at the top. 

7 inches across the top. It was impossible to 
make it grow straight. In August it was 
54 inches high, and the tuft of leaves de¬ 
veloped countless buds, and was 10 inches 
wide. Thinking so many buds would not 
have room to come to maturity, I gradually 
picked off over a hundred (100); then, as the 
left side of stem began to turn brown, I 
picked off more buds (in all 135), leaving eight 
of these. Four bloseoms developed out on the 
right, side, not very large, but decidedly aura- 


from cold and frost, does not prevent the 
air getting to them. Especially is it desirable 
to afford newly-planted subjects like Roses 
some such protection, as it often happens 
that much harm is done before they have 
become established. Then, again, things like 
Myrtles and Veronicas are benefited by shel- [ 
ter, and leaves or Bracken placed around 
them will ward off cold, biting winds. To 
this end, it is always advisable to have leaves 
or strawy material handy. For protecting 
Rcses I have used the dry haulm of Sweet 
Peas, which is light and warm.—F. W. D. 


ASA GRAY’S LILY (LILIUM GRAYI). 
This pretty Lily from the Alleghanies of Vir¬ 
ginia and Northern Carolina was first col¬ 
lected and described by Dr. Asa Gray 


October, and flowers in July. Though some¬ 
what sombre in colour as compared with the 
Lilies from Western America, it is good in 
groups among low-growing shrubs in a moist 
corner, where it is more at home than amid 
border-plants of stronger growth and brighter 
colouring. 


ORCHIDS. 

CATTLEYA LABIATA. 

In many collections the autumn flowering 
Cattleya labiata will now be at its best, ana 
the plants will need very careful w atering at 
the root, the young pseudo-bulbs especially, if 
they are soft and not properly matured, 
quickly turning black and decaying if the com¬ 
post is kept very moist; or, if that does not 
occur, the plants are liable to 
start into growth prematurely. 
While the plants are in bloom, 
the atmosphere surrounding 
them should be kept a trifle 
drier than usual, and the 
blooms will remain perfectly 
fresh for several weeks, which 
is of great importance to those 
growers who have to supply 
orchid flowers for cutting. 
After the flowers are over, ele¬ 
vate the plants well up to the 
roof glass in the lightest posi¬ 
tion available. This will tend 
to harden the current season’s 
growth, and assist the plants to 
pass safely through the coming 
winter. About this time a 
quantity of young roots will 
start away from the base of the 
flowering bulbs, and if a plant 
requires repotting, it should be 
attended to immediately these 
roots make their appearance. 
If the operation be delayed 
until these new r roots have made 
any considerable progress, they 
are likely to be injured during 
the operation, and fail to make 
any further progress. Fill the 
pots to about half their depth 
with broken crocks, and secure 
this with a thin layer of rough 
■Sphagnum Moss; cut away all 
diseased and useless back 
pseudo-bulbs. If about two 
are left behind each leading 
growth, that will be sufficient. 
Pot each plant firmly, using 
four-fifths of best fibrous peat 
to one-fifth Sphagnum Moss, 
mixing both materials well to¬ 
gether, and adding sufficient 
small crocks to allow water to 
pass freely through. After re¬ 
potting, only enough water 
should be given to prevent the 
plants from shrivelling, or the 
young roots from damping off, 
which they are very liable to 
do if too 'much water is used 
before the plants are re-eetab- 
lished; but when new growth 
commences, the quantity may 
be gradually increased. W. 


turn. I could not get anjone to photograph 
the Lily till the flowers were withered. In 
the photo you will see the bend, and that the 
stem seems to he five stems joined. There 
is another bulb in the tub of Lilium auratum 
vittatuiu, which was very handsome, not pure 
white, with deep red centre vein and spots. 
—Rhoda C. Lindsay, 7, Si. Alban's flood, 
Kensington, IF. [The photo you send shows 
that the Lilium has developed a fasciated 
stem. A good example of this is the Cocks¬ 
comb. These fasciated stems occur very fre¬ 
quently in Lilium auratum.—E d.) 

Protection. —At one time it was thought 
necessary to manure heavily round the roots 
of trees and plants as a preventive against 
frost; but it is now known very well that such 
a procedure is apt to starve the roots by keep¬ 
ing air away. The better plan is to afford 
protection in the shape of strawy manure or 
Bracken, wfiicb, whilst screening the plants 

Digitized by (jQL >^lC 


Lilium Gravi, 


in 1840. It is closely allied to _ the 
Canadian Lily, some botanists consider¬ 
ing it to be a variety of Lilhim cana- 
1 dense. The leaves resemble those of the 
Canadian Lily in their arrangement, each 
whorl containing five to ten leaves, each 
about 4 inches long. The slender stems, 
each 3 feet to 4 feet high, bear nodding 
umbels of bell shaped, reddish-crimson 
flowers, sometimes arranged in two tiers, one 
above the other. They average 2 inches 
across the tube, are spotted maroon-black on 
the inner surfaces, with chocolate-coloured 
anthers within the tube. The plant is easy 
to grow' in any damp, hut not shady, situa¬ 
tion, such as the banks of streams, or the 
cool fernery. It often appears quite at its 
best planted with the hardy Orchids and 
moisture-loving Iris. It does best in peat and 
leaf-soil, or light loam with leaf-soil added j 
to it. It should be planted in September or 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 
Lselia pumila (M. E. L.).— 
Flowering in the cool or Odontoglossum 
house are the Ltelia pumila and its varieties. 
This species is one of those useful plants, the 
blooms of which are always highly appre¬ 
ciated, especially where good buttonhole 
flowers are in request. Although at one 
time a very rare and expensive Orchid, it may 
now, owing to the large numbers annually 
imported, be purchased at a very small cost. 
There are several very pretty and distinct 
varieties of this species, ns Lselia pumila 
alba, L. p. delicatissima, L. p. Gntton Park, 
L. p. Low’s var., L. p. magnifiea, etc., all of 
which are desirable plants, and well worth 
adding to the collection when obtainable. 
These plants grow very well in the cool house 
through the summer, but at this season it is 
advisahle to remove them to the slightly 
warmer atmosphere of the intermediate 
house, as very often, if the plant is subjected 
to a lower temperature than 50 degs., the 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 





476 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


November. 2, 1907 


foliage, young breaks, and flowers are liable 
to become spotted and diseased. One of the 
worst enemies to these plants is white scale, 
and as this insect multiplies very rapidly, the 
pseudo-bulbs should be frequently examined, 
and whenever scale appears it must be dili¬ 
gently brushed off and eradicated. All of 
these varieties of L. pumila may be cultivated 
in small, shallow pans, with copper wire 
handles attached, and be suspended close to 
the roof glass. A small quantity only of 
chopped peat and Sphagnum Moss is requisite 
for them to root in, and this should be kept 
fairly moist-, especially during the growing 
and flowering period. After the flowers fade, 
and the growths become fully matured, less 
will suffice, affording just sufficient- to pre¬ 
vent the pseudo-bulbs and leaves from 
shrivelling. 

VEGETABLES. 

BLANCHING. 

How much in gardening we owe to the prac¬ 
tice of blanching ! By its agency Celery, En¬ 
dive, Chicory, Lettuce, Leeks, Seakale, and 
Asparagus more or less, among other vege¬ 
tables, are rendered not- merely edible, but 
rank amongst the most acceptable vegetables. 
No doubt the origin of the blanching process 
is very remote, and lies hidden in obscurity. 
Still, its origin marked a very important era 
in vegetable culture, as but for its existence 
and practice how few of the delicious vege¬ 
tables named could be used as food. The art 
of blanching has in the past been limited 
chiefly to the use of soil as the green or chlo¬ 
rophyll-destroying element. Generally it is 
so still, and, on the whole, is the best. But 
the use of brown paper bands, both for 
Celerv and Leeks, is considerable in the 
blanching process, and with good effect, so 
far as the procuring of very clean, white 
stems is concerned, for exhibition. But for 
edible purposes sweet soil not only gives to 
the things blanched the sweetest flavour, but 
also the purest whiteness, inasmuch as 
through its agency light and air are best 
excluded, and real blanching the better fol¬ 
lows. But not all things are blanched by 
soil or by paper bands. Seakale is best 
blanched in the dark generally, although that 
which outdoors is blanched under ridges or 
soil often furnishes the best flavour. Endive 
can be blanched under pieces of board, 
slates, tiles, or other similar coverings ex¬ 
cluding light and air, or when plants are 
blocked into darkened frames kept close. 
The treatment which suits Seakale also does 
for Chicory and Dandelion. Generally the 
culture of the vegetables named is simple, 
and comparatively easy. To the amateur the 
art of successfully blanching them to produce 
the desired edible tenderness is, probably, 
more difficult, yet a little observation and 
experience soon lead to success. What has 
to be done in all cases in one way or another 
is to expel from the stems, plants, or leaves, 
the natural green colouring matter or 
chlorophyll. A. D. 


STRINGLESS BEANS. 

Of late years effort has been directed tow ards 
raising a strain of Beans with stringless pods. 
It appears to us that by a large section of the 
community very little value is set upon the 
stringless Bean. Quite recently I have been 
able to note the advantages derived from the 
grow th and use of etringless pods. It is, of 
course, in the French section of these Beans 
where this is apparent, and it will be even 
more valuable could it be made possible in 
the pods of Scarlet Runners. It is said, and 
with truth, that one old or stringy Bean is 
sufficient to at once spoil a whole dish, and 
thus the value of the otherwise esteemed vege¬ 
table is considerably lessened. There are 
strains of the dwarf as well as the Runner 
sections of French Beans. One in particular, 
which I have tried this year with considerable 
satisfaction, is Carter’s July Climbing. The 
pods of this kind are not of the U6ual flat 
type, but are more inclined to be round ; and 
when they would appear to be advanced in 
seed-growth, and might easily be judged old 
and stringy, they have surprised me in their 
succulence and table excellence. 

The preparation of these stringless pods is 

Digitized by GO glC 


le »s troublesome than in the case of the coarser 
types of French and Scarlet Runners. Apart 
altogether from this particular characteristic, 
there is the greater certainty of uniformity of 
the dish when presented at the table. With 
these there need be no risk of having stringy 
pods, and though I confess to have paid little 
regard to these facts in the past, 1 certainly 
have gained experience this season. In the 
dining-room the time-honoured Scarlet 
Runner was absolutely ignored, and w hen the 
demands for the French Beans reduced the 
supply to almost vanishing point, the kitchen 
order would come, almost in defiance of our 
plea for time necessary for them to attain 
economical proportions. This experience is 
so directly opposite from that in some past 
years, that I naturally inquired the cause. 
Of course, mine is an experience only of local 
standing, and has a direct bearing on the 
past summer in particular as regards the 
favour shown for the French stringless pods. 
Hitherto I have found it necessary to plant 
these Beans only for a supply until the Scar¬ 
let Runner crop was available. After this 
time the demand dropped altogether, and 
they could be safely pulled up and cleared 
away so far as concerned their utility in the 
kitchen. Productiveness is a merit which is 
claimed equally by both sections, but perhaps 
the greater weight would be found by com¬ 
parison should the Scarlet Runner be pitted 
against its more aristocratic neighbour. 
There is a refinement about the flavour of 
the French Bean which is not found in the 
Scarlet Runners except when very young and 
tender pods are employed. It is quite true 
that weather has a marked influence on the 
quality of either Bean, that of the past season 
having been much in favour of a successional 
podding. In typical summer weather Beans 
quickly develop, and as soon become too old 
for domestic use unless a system of rigid dailv 
gathering is practised. Few, however, are 
able to do this, and the fact of seed produc¬ 
tion seems to set up stringiuess in otherwise 
fresh-looking pods. The same thing would 
happen with the French Dwarf or Runner, 
and more or less so with the newer stringless 
section. High cultivation may be relied upon 
to avert this source of complaint. AY. S. 


NOTES AND REPLIES . 

Savoys. These, especially the Drumhead 
variety, have made coarse growth, and show 
little signs of hearting as yet. The recent 
sunshine ought to make amends here, and no 
doubt by the time frost has tempered them a 
bit, good, solid heads will be forthcoming. It 
is a mistake to sow these as early as some do. 
Early May is a much more suitable date, 
and, on the other hand, it is folly to cut them 
at an unseasonable time ; November and De¬ 
cember are their season. Naturally, if the 
heads begin to burst, they quickly spoil if not 
cut, but this cracking is partly due to such 
early sowing. The Green Curled and Dwarf 
Ulm varieties come in best for autumn use, 
and take up very little room, reserving the 
Drumhead or Globe variety for late use. 
Savoys are most serviceable in frosty weather 

a time when Cabbage is getting scarce. 
The Savoy is one of the most useful vege¬ 
tables cottagers can grow, and, what is more, 
the majority of them know it. East Devon. 

Tomato Sunrise.— In a reference to this 
excellent variety, at page 384. Mr. E. Hob¬ 
day says: “There are no deformed ones, 
and this may be in some measure due to care 
in saving the seeds.” So far ns my experi¬ 
ence goes, there it* but little need for care in 
saving the seeds or selecting the fruits for the 
same, and not only is this true of the above- 
named variety, but of others that approach 
to the same type of fruits. Deformed flowers 
—and, therefore, fruits—are quite a rarity in 
these perfectly round and heart-shaped types 
of fruit, the latter being of medium and uni¬ 
form size throughout. Chemin Rouge, Chal¬ 
lenger, and Satisfaction, as well as the above, 
are all examples of the smooth skin and 
round-fruited types of Tomato, and the 
fasciated stigma—the product of the de¬ 
formed fruit—is rarely, if ever, seen in such 
types, the fruits coming nearly, or quite, 
true to their type or kind. It is quite another 
matter when we approach the flatter types of 
fruits, with their more or less ribbed or cor¬ 


rugated exterior, for in these the deformed 
fruits are ever present, unless the watchful 
eye of the grower was upon the plants at 
flowering time, and he promptly removed dis¬ 
torted blooms. In such types or varieties as 
Duke of Clarence, Comet, Holmes’ Supreme, 
etc., deformed flowers appear on almost every 
truss of bloom, and should be removed. It 
is these ribbed-fruited sorts that require more 
than a little selecting, and the grower may 
save the most shapely fruits of these he can 
find for seed, only to find that these give 
many ribbed fruits the next. year. In nil 
probability these ribbed fruits will long re¬ 
main in certain kinds.—E. Jenkins. 

Planting spring Cabbage.— Difference of 
opinion still exists in regard to the planting 
out of spring Cabbage in their final quarters, 
some holding to the belief that to get them 
out towards the end of October or November 
is better than doing so in spring. I think, 
however, the question of locality is one which 
ought to he considered, as what would be all 
right for the west of England would scarcely 
answer in the north ; and, on the whole, I am 
inclined, from experience, to continue to fol¬ 
low the practice of allowing the plants to re¬ 
main in the seed bed until towards March, 
then lifting and transplanting carefully. Re¬ 
moval late in the autumn often means that 
the plants do not get hold of the soil, and 
then if hard frost follows they die off; in¬ 
deed, from a spring sowing one may often 
have Cabbages very little later than from 
autumn-sown plants.—F. W. D. 

Potato Duchess of Cornwall.— One of the 
best varieties of Potatoes that has come 
under my notice this year is that named 
above, and not only has it proved of high 
merit in 1907. but it has been good during the 
past two seasons. Quite four bushels of Pota¬ 
toes fit for table have been lifted from each 
perch of ground, and it is satisfactory to find 
that disease, which is so prevalent this year, 
has not been so marked in this variety as in 
many others. In character of tuber, as well 
as colour of skin, this comparatively new 
Potato resembles Up-to-Datc, and in growth 
it is almost equally vigorous. Quality, always 
more or less influenced by the soil in which 
Poiatoes are grown, is also good. Very hand¬ 
some tubers may be selected for exhibition 
from Duchess of Cornwall, both for summer 
and autumn exhibitions. I have seen many 
good dishes at the summer shows, both in 
open and cottage garden competitions. A 
general crop of 240 lb., raised from each plot. 

yards square, cannot be other than satis¬ 
factory, as regards yield, and when the 
quality is also good, then certainly no occa¬ 
sion for complaint ca'n be made. As in all 
large tubering Potatoes, there is but a small 
proportion of seed size ; sometimes not even 
sufficient for normal demands.—W. S. 

COUVG Tronchuda. —I have recommended 
more than once the growing of this most use¬ 
ful vegetable. There are few people, how¬ 
ever. who know anything of Couve Tron¬ 
chuda, and arc not able to appreciate the 
addition to their table of a delicate-flavoured 
vegetable in autumn. Portugal Cabbage, ns 
it is called, requires practically the same 
treatment as Brussels Sprouts or Savoys, sow¬ 
ing the seed in March or April, and planting 
out in May in well-prep a red ground. It 
should have more room than ordinary Cab¬ 
bage, on account of the spread of its leaves, 
the midribs of which arc very tender when 
cooked, and of excellent quality. The top of 
the plant also makes a fine vegetable. It 
will not stand severe frost, but comes in 
handy in October, and to those who have not 
given it a trial and need a vegetable before 
the winter greens are ready, 1 would suggest 
Couve Tronchuda.—F. \V. D. 

Green Tomatoes.—I think this wet. cold year 
will find many people, like myself, with an immense 
lot of green Tomatoes. I find I have now upwards of 
600 fair fruits from a few plants grown in the open 
under shelter of a Box hedge, as I have no wall. I 
have had an open tray made of laths to hang directly 
under greenhouse roof, and expect a large number 
will redden, though I have no fire-heat. These, how¬ 
ever, that do not redden I find excellent as a veget¬ 
able cooked in this way: —Put Tomatoes, without any 
water, into saucepan, and let them stew down over a 
gentle fire. They are slightly acid, but if so stewed 
and then served in good gravy and Tomato sauce, 
such as one can buy, I think most people would like 
them. I like them just plain. 1 use thus all injured 
fruits which will not keeiy-C harlotte G. O'Brien 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



November 2, 1907 


Ur AKDKJSl’lJVG ILLUSTRATED. 


477 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 

THE ALMOND-TREE. 

The Almond is a lovely tree in blossom, a tree 
well fitted for our northern climate, and one 
that seldom fails to announce the coming 
into quick life of trees and buds and flowers. 
Occasionally, by a suburban road, one may 
see beautiful aspects of the Almond-tree in 
spring; but it is a tree which is neglected in 
the larger spaces and in country seats; and 
this is a pity, because such places have better 


ties from it, brighter in colour or hardier, 
would be a gain. There is a very large- 
flowering variety in cultivation now in the 
nurseries about London, and, no doubt, where 
the tree is cultivated for its fruit, there are 
I other varieties. However, the common kind, 
I well crown, is good enough for our purpose ; 

and the main thing to say about it is that it 
I should not be always crowded and forgotten 
I in a shrubbery, or starved there. The tree, 
it seems to us, deserves growing for its ow t ii 
| sake as an individual, or, still better, as a 
small group. In country places a consider 



A spray of Almond blossom. From a photograph by Jas. E. T^ler, Halstead, Essex. 


means of developing its beauty than the (sub¬ 
urban garden. In Japan, we have been told, 
the flowering of the Almond is a festival time, 
the climate favouring a more complete de¬ 
velopment than ours does; but our climate 
suits the tree thoroughly—much better than 
it does the Peaches, double or single, which 
were brought from Japan some years ago, and 
which are beautiful enough, so far as they go, 
and extremely bright in colour; but they do 
not seem to grow into healthy trees, no matter 
what care they get. Therefore, the improve¬ 
ment of the Almond tree would be much more 
worthy of our attention; raising good vane- 


able amount of taste mav be employed in the 
placing of these individuals or groups, be- 
I cause, from its bright colour, the Almond is 
a tree that admits of landscape treatment, a 
well-placed group telling well in tlie distance. 

I Another consideration is worthy of mention, 
and that is the possibility of having a succes¬ 
sion of this bright tree’s blossoms by plant- 
I ing it in different positions. A group or an 
, individual in a northern exposure or on 
heavy clay would flower at a different time 
from one in a sunny exposure and on light 
soil; and one might escape and give a satisfac¬ 
tory bloom, while, perhaps, another opened 


at a time of severe weather. The trees in all 
cases ought to have room for fair develop¬ 
ment in good soil. T. 

AUTUMN TINTS IN TREES AND 
SHRUBS. 

Probably above all others, America is 
favoured in the possession of a large list of 
trees and shrubs which gladden the landscape 
with their brilliant colouring in the fall, and 
also in having climatic conditions which 
favour in a marked degree the bringing out 
of such colours to a high state of perfection. 
In Great Britain this yearly transformation 
cannot be so certainly expected as in the case 
of this country, for one is not so sure there 
[ of a dry, sunny autumn, which, from general 
observation, seems to be conducive to tlie pro¬ 
duction of the beautiful coloration during the 
period of those mysterious chemical changes 
taking place within the leaf of the plant. 
Again, it seems that a too vigorous growth, 
due to an exceeding wet summer or a very 
rich soil, makes a good display in the fall 
I less likely, especially should a wet summer 
be followed by a dull fall; but, with the 
I weather as we generally get it here, a 
j vigorous growth means a greater wealth of 
colour, and year by year we look forward with 
delight to the change which comes over many 
of our deciduous trees and shrubs, even 
though we know it betokens for them the 
coming sleep of winter. First and foremost 
among trees noted for their fine colours, wo 
must place the Oaks, not because there are 
no others that possess even more striking 
shades, but there are none which retain their 
I leaves for so long a time after the colour has 
been acquired, and what finer sight could be 
desired than the scarlet or the Pin Oak when 
in their autumn glory. The Sweet Gum 
(Liquidambar styraciflua) and the Sour Gum 
(Nyssa multiflora) are also a worthy pair, 
with their dull red burnished foliage. Trees 
furnishing yellow tints are not lacking, for 
the Elm, Birch, Tulip tree, Horse Chestnut, 
and a few of the large Maples, as the Norway, 
Sugar, and the European Sycamore Maple, 
all add their individual beauty. Touching 
on Maples, what is more beautiful than the 
several varieties of Japanese Maples? 
Charming are they from the time they unfold 
their tender foliage until, tinged with their 
dying colour, the leaves drop one by one, 
the effect being heightened when a group of 
them is backed up by some graceful growing 
e\ergreen. 

Quite a few more trees might be mentioned 
as possessing autumnal beauty in a greater 
or less degree, but the shrubs claim a share 
of our attention, for among these, too, we 
have some rich colours, as in the Sumachs, 
all of which afford a wealth of warm colour 
to the landscape, and for this reason large 
plantings are made on many estates of Ithus 
typhina and R. glabra. Among the lower- 
gYowing shrubs, few can surpass the little 
Berberis Thunbergi in its persistent beauty in 
the fall, and, if only for this, it will surely 
remain a favourite with everybody. The 
mollis section of the Azaleas, though fleeting 
in their autumn beauty, gives us soruo rare 
shades in crimson, red, and gold, as also do 
their near allies. Another pretty little shrub 
is Fothergilla alnifolia. 

A few of the Viburnums acquire attractive 
colours, as Viburnum Opulus and cassinoides, 
while the tiny foliage of Spirtea Thunbergi, 
though transitory, is very pretty when it puts 
on its autumn garb. The Brambles (Rubue 
fruticosus) and varieties also may be men¬ 
tioned as affording charming effects planted 
in wild positions, where little else would 
grow, and rewarding us generously in the fall 
with shades of colouring w hich ought to raise 
them higher in our esteem. 

Of the Vines, none is more beautiful than 
the favourite, Vitis inconstans. The Vir¬ 
ginian Creeper, though perhaps not quite so 
good as the former, is very showy, however, 
while Vitis Coignetia?, with its large, orna¬ 
mental foliage, and Vitis Thunbergi, both of 
which are not so often seen in this country as 
they should be, are a sight not easily for¬ 
gotten, and when “The melancholy days 
are come, and, heaped in the hollows of 
the grove, the autumn leaves lie dead,’’ we 
cannot forget that they were once beautiful. 

Edwin Matthe^, in Horticulture. 


Google 


UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




478 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


November 2, 1907 


GARDEN WORK. 

Conservatory. —We are all driven by what 
may be termed the spirit of the age, or what 
some people call fashion. It is, perhaps, 
rather a pity that fashion should have so 
much influence in the selection or arrange¬ 
ment of flowers, but we must, take things as 
we find them, and do our best, as those who 
pay the piper have a right to call the tune. 
The big, fat Chrysanthemums seem to have 
lo-it caste, but the demand for well-grown 
bush plants for the conservatory, and 
medium-sized flowers for cutting is larger 
than ever. As regards flowers for cutting, 
we want dozens of plants of a few colours of 
early and late varieties, as we never ought 
to be without good cutting varieties from 
September till the end of January. There is 
plenty now to select from, and everybody has 
his favourite varieties. I believe in striking 
the bulk of the cuttings fairly early, ana 
growing cool, but without check, all through 
till the flowers are expanded. Those flowers 
which open badly may be helped with warmth 
and a quick-acting stimulant. Though the 
bulk of the plants should be struck by the 
end of January or earlier, those intended 
for small pots may be struck later on. We 
have in small pots still standing outside for 
very late blooming, several hundred plants 
that were not struck till April, some of them 
even later. These late struck plants will 
retain all their foliage down to the pots, and 
they are useful to form groups at Christmas. 
We find the best of these late-struck plants, 
when cut down and rested a bit, very useful 
for forming bush specimens the following 
season. The Chrysanthemum is a special 
flower just now, but it will be even more 
useful at Christinas and later. Tree Carna¬ 
tions will be a special feature now;, and 
should, if possible, have a light position near 
the glass, and be watered with care. They 
must have a little warmth—not less than 
50 degs. at night—to open the blossoms, and 
the atmosphere should be buoyant and sweet. 
A good batch of Begonia Gloire de Lorraine 
in a group in a prominent position will at¬ 
tract attention now. Palms will supply good 
backgrounds. 

Stove. —This is a delightful house, for 
those, at least, who can enjoy warmth and a 
moist atmosphere. There are always plants 
in flower or coming on, and it is as interest¬ 
ing to watch the expanding foliage or burst¬ 
ing buds from day to day, as the fully ex¬ 
panded blossoms. Gardenias, Coleus tliyr- 
soideus, Eucharis amazonica. Euphorbia 
jnequiniseflora, Poinsettia pulcherrima. Fran- 
ciscea calycina, Hebeclinium ianthinum, 
Pentas earnea, P. rosea, P. alba, Gesnera 
zebrina, and others, Justicias in variety, 
Plumbago rosea, Impatiens Holstii, I. 
Sultani, and Thyrsacanthus rutilans are all 
useful, and may be had in flower now. Then, 
in this house, the foliage of Crotons, Dra¬ 
caenas, Marantas, and other like things is 
as beautiful as flowers, and even more useful 
for table decoration. No gardener at this 
season can afford to be without a nice lot of 
fine-foliaged plants for room decoration. 

Fruit-trees In pot8. —This is a good time 
to make n beginning. Where means are un¬ 
limited, fruiting trees may be purchased, but 
if thrifty young trees are potted up now, and 
well managed during the first season, some 
fruits may be gathered the second year. The 
plants must have good loam, with a little 
bone-meal, basic slag, old plaster, and a small 
quantity of old manure, the whole well 
blended together in an open shed. Eight- 
inch pots will be large enough for most of the 
trees, and, when the trees arrive, shorten 
th«* roots, drain the pots well, and pot very 
firmly. The roots of Peaches. Plums, and 
Figs will bear a good deal of pruning, if they 
are potted in good loam, suitably enriched, 
but do not use too much animal manure, as 
it only sours the soil and causes the produc¬ 
tion of coarRe roots and gross growth, which 
are inimical to fertility. Where the trees 
are potted, stand outside on an impervious 
bottom, and fill in between the pots with 
leaves or Ferns. I prefer leaves, with a 
little Bracken on the top to keep the leaves 
in position. Here the trees may remain till 
January, when they should be taken inside 
and given what little pruning and washing 
are required. 

Digitized by GOOglC 


Late Peach-house. —The leaves will now 
be falling, and if the growth has had any 
tendency to grossness—for young trees in a 
good border are apt to rush into growth— | 
a trench opened along the front of the trees, 
and the extremities lifted and shortened a 
little, will prove a very useful check. It is 
not wise to attempt to check grossness by 
using the knife freely among the branches, 
but a little check to the roots will rectify 
matters, and then the strong shoots, or most 
of them, can be trained, just merely removing 
the soft, unripe ends of the shoots. If the 
wood is very soft and green, a little fire-heat 
in combination with free ventilation will be 
useful now for a week or two to complete the 
ripening. It is warmth that is required to 
complete the work. 

Vines in pots. —Those intended for forcing 
may remain outside for a time, assuming they 
were placed agaiii6t a 6outh wall, with the 
canes tacked to the wall. What little prun¬ 
ing is required should be given to them, and, 
if necessary, dress the wounds with styptic, 
to prevent bleeding, and shelter the pots with 
Bracken. Let the rest, be as perfect as pos¬ 
sible, and prolong that state to the last 
minute, even if we have to push on a little 
faster afterwards. A good long rest always 
pays, and then, when the season for work 
comes, push on briskly. In the case of pot- 
Vines, there is no occasion to trouble about 
the next year. We want all we can get in 
the near future, and a long rest, followed by 
genial conditions, will always do good work, 
as will be shown by results. 

Filling baskets with hanging plants.— 

There is a good deal of decorative value at 
all seasons in well-filled baskets. These are 
generally filled in the spring, and grown on 
in warmth when young. It may be some¬ 
times necessary to fill baskets now with rather 
large plants to be effective at once. As¬ 
paragus Sprengeri may be effective from the 
beginning, and baskets may be filled with 
bulbs, mixed with small Ferns. The Cape 
Cowslips, for instance, may be used in this 
way. 

Plants In the house.— Chrysanthemums 
last well indoors; Cyclamens also do well, as 
a rule. Gas is bad for both flowering and 
fine-foliaged plants, but near towns electric 
light is taking the place of gas. W'e have 
had Palms and other plants in rooms and 
corridors lighted with electricity for many 
months at a time without the slightest injury. 
Heaths will do well if the watering ie seen to 
at the right time. The watering and spong¬ 
ing are always important matters. 

Outdoor garden. —Tree and shrub plant¬ 
ing is going on now, and those who wish 
to extend their collections of flowering shrubs 
may plant the following, or some of them, 
if they do not already possess them : Mag¬ 
nolia 6tellata, very free and early-flowering, 
but not quite so free in growth as some of 
the other species; M. conspicua Alexandria 
is also desirable. Olcaria Haastii i« a charm¬ 
ing white-flowered shrub from New Zealand. 
Osmanthus illicifolius purpureus is useful, 
while /Eseulus parviflora (Pavia maeros- 
tachya) blooms at a time in August when 
flowering shrubs are scarce. It makes an 
effective group at. the hack of a wide herba¬ 
ceous border. The Bush Honeysuckles (Wei- 
gelas) are charming in a sheltered place. 
Some of the newer forms are very desirable. 

I remember when W. rosea first came to u« 
it was treated as a greenhouse plant, and. 
though hardy enough to flower outside, in 
most places,* I have seen it cut badly by 
cold winds in spring. The Wei gel as are 
all excellent subjects for forcing for the con- 
Mervatorv. Eva Rat like, red flowered, is very 
distinct and dwarf in habit. Catalpa bignoni 
oides is an old subject, and forms a small 
tree, flowering in August. This scorns in 
some districts, at any rate, to want a little 
shelter from cold winds. Catalpa aurea has 
golden foliage. Hydrangea ecandens 
(Climbing Hydrangea) will be useful for 
covering law walls. This is new, and cverv- 
hodv has not flowered it yet. Cotoneaster 
horizontalis, Berberis Thunbergi, and Corylus 
aurea should be planted, to form a contrast 
with the purple tint. I have only touched 
the fringe of this matter. There are many 
beautiful things in the best nurseries that 
will doubtless in time come into the planter’s 


hands. Cuttings'of Calceolarias will root 
readily now in a cold frame. 

Fruit garden. —Most of the late fruits 
still on the trees should be gathered. The 
latest hanging Apples are few in number. 
Norfolk Beautin wall hang till November, and 
Court Pendu Plat must not be gathered 
too soon, as under the best conditions it is 
apt. to shrivel. It keeps best packed in 6and, 
each fruit being wrapped in paper. As soon 
as the fruits are all stored there will be a 
chance of taking stock of the trees, and se^ 
if anything can be done to increase their fer¬ 
tility. It is not of much use wasting time 
over an old, worn-out tree. Many orchards 
and fruit-gardens are too much crowded with 
trees, and they injure each other. It may be 
advisable in the beginning to plant rather 
thickly when the trees are on the Paradise, 
because it will be an easy matter to move 
half the trees to a fresh site, eay, in five or 
six years. There is sometimes profit in this, 
but there may be loss in planting thickly, 
and leaving the trees unthinned. This re¬ 
fers to other things besides fruit-trees. 
Strawberries in pots intended for early forc¬ 
ing should be placed under cover. They 
keep well plunged in ashes or leaves, with 
some old lights over them to keep off heavy 
rains. Frost is not likely to injure them 
when the pots are plunged. 

Vegetable garden.— All spare time now 
should be given up to trenching vacant 
ground. Very often, when the demand for 
vegetables is considerable, there is not much 
vacant land at any season, and therefore the 
trenching has to be done, if done at all, at 
odd times between cropping. I have been 
in gardens during this autumn where every 
bit of land was under crop. Even the Potato 
land was filled with Brussels Sprouts and 
other greens that had been planted between 
the rows of Potatoes. Of course, this is 
making the most of the land; but, where land 
is plentiful and reasonable in price, it is 
better to make the kitchen garden a little 
larger in the first place. Cropping land 
without a moment’s rest means more manure 
and more labour, and rotation of crops must 
not be altogether ignored, or some day in the 
future there will be trouble. There are sub¬ 
stances that will kill insects and fungi, and 
these should be used wdiere close cropping 
is carried out. It is time now to look after 
the Cauliflowers and Lettuces, which are full 
grown. A full-grown Lettuce, after being 
exposed to frost, soon decays, but a light 
covering of leaves will keep them quite safe. 

E. Hobday. 

THE COMING WEEK'S WORK. 

Extracts from a (.lardcn Diary. 

November J f th. —Pruning will be begun as 
soon as the leaves are down. Cuttings have 
been selected from the best Gooseberries and 
Currants and laid in till a wet day comes for 
preparing them. Growers with a healthy 
stock will be wise to do as we are doing— 
propagate these things at homo. A couple 
of rows of Raspberries w'ill be planted, and 
one row of Loganberries. We find this plan 
better than moving a whole plantation, as we 
have young, vigorous plants always coming 
on. 

November 5th. —Though we like a deep bed, 
well broken up, for Roses, if the subsoil is 
bad, it is left in the bottom ; but we do all 
we can in the way of improving its character, 
so that in the future its resources may Ik* 
drawn upon. There are many ways of dis¬ 
posing of Roses besides planting in mixture, 
groups of special kinds being dropped in 
round the margins of the lawn, facing the 
background of shrubs. Vigorous kinds only 
are planted. 

November 0th. —Gathered the last of the 
Apples. At the present the fruit stores are 
well ventilated, but as soon as the sweating 
process is over, less ventilation will be given, 
and the light will be subdued by closing one 
or more of the shutters. The fruit store is 
in two divisions, and the early and late fruits 
for the time being are separated. Ripening 
Pears are brought forward in a little extra 
heat when required. This improves the 
flavour. 

November 7th. —Wo are still planting 
| bulbs, Tulips, and Narcissi. St. Brigid 
Anemones will be planted in succession. 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



Kovembeu 2, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Pansies and Violas are moving well now, and 
scarcely feel the change. The Blue Prim¬ 
rose seems rather disappointing. We have a 
large bed of seedlings, many of which are 
now coming into flower. There is plenty of 
red, but at present no blue. It seems, if 
blues are wanted, we must propagate by 
division from blue plants only. 

November 8th .—Moved more Chrysanthe¬ 
mums to conservatory. There is a good show 
of these now, and as far as possible the at¬ 
mosphere of the house i« kept in a buoyant 
condition. Finished root pruning of fruit- 
trees. 'There are several young trees that 
will be lifted and replanted very shortly, a 
little good loam being placed round the roots, 
and the latter kept near the surface. When 
an old tree is grubbed, the soil is changed if 
a young tree is to be planted in the flam? 
position. 

November 9th .—All vacant land is trenched 
or double-dug as opportunity offers; but we 
crop closely, and for this reason the trench¬ 
ing lias sometimes to be shunted. We are 
getting forward with all work which involves 
the removal of turf, and every season there 
i9 some work of the kind to <lo. If a large 
tree or shrub has to be moved, it is well to 
prepare it for removal a year before the 
actual moving takes place. 


LAW AND CUSTOM. 

Nuisance from poultry — 1 have a neighbour 
who, within the last six months, has introduced a 
number of fowls into his quite small town garden. 
They are kept at the bottom of the garden—a strip 
about 80 feet by 30 feet. I believe the fowls are 
Brahmas. At the top of the garden, close to the 
houses, there are coops with hens and chickens. The 
noise increases rather than abates. Will you kindly 
tell me if I have any redress? As yet 1 have made 
no complaint. I do not know the people, but 1 
should say they would not wish to cause annoyance.— 
BOXMOOR. 

[This is a case in which I think you might 
very well suggest to vour neighbour that he 
should not keep a rooster. Tell him that his 
liens will lay quite as well without one, and 
that if the rooster is removed they will, prob¬ 
ably, all be much quieter. If your neighbour 
sees fit to adopt your suggestion, there will, 
probably, be no further annoyance ; if not, 
your redress will lie in taking legal action to 
restrain him from continuing the nuisance, 
and to recover damages if it has caused you 
any annoyance. You had better ascertain first 
of all whether the local bye-laws cover a 
matter of this sort. This you can ascertain 
upon inquiry at the Borough or District 
Council offices, where I have no doubt they 
will undertake to look into the nuisance on 
our behalf. The fact of your neighbour 
aving brought the nuisance to the district 
(which previously was a quiet one) is in your 
favour ; but had it been otherwise—for in¬ 
stance, had you gone and taken up your 
abode near a market-hall, where these noises 
might be expected as a matter of course—the 
case would have been different.— Barrister.] 
A neighbour and his cat-scarer (N. A.). 
—(1) You are quite entitled to require your 
neighbour to keep his “cat-scarer'’ within 
the bounds of his own premises, and if it over¬ 
hangs yours you may chop it off. Apart from 
that, if it is an instrument of torture, such 
as you describe, and is deliberately set where 
it will impale these animals and cause them 
grievous pain, you can lay an information 
against him under the Cruelty to Animals 
Acts, and get him summarily convicted. (2) 
You may lop off the branches of the trees 
eo far as they overhang your garden, but the 
wisest thing to do with the loppings would be 
to throw them over into his premises, al¬ 
though, in strictness, I think you could, if 
you choose to do so, retain them in your own 
possession.— Barrister. 

Workmen s Compensation Act (Anxious). 
—Your questions can beet be answered all to¬ 
gether. This new Act distinguishes between 
“regular” employment and “casual” em¬ 
ployment, but until the express meanings of 
those terms have been decided by the Courts, 
it is impossible for anybody to say with cer¬ 
tainty what will be necessary. The only 6afe 
plan to adopt is to.Insure everybody : persons 
who are obviously in regular employment — 
e.g., domestic servants^g^rdeners, and such¬ 
like must, of course, /be insured,/act I fallen 
this is being done the lViufltuxt fnimfrJiJiH'ill, 


upon request, arrange for payment of a small 
extra premium to cover all doubtful risks. 
The cost is so trifling for all these liabilities 
that one wonders why a querist like yourself 
runs the risk even of awaiting an answer to 
an inquiry when the nearest insurance office 
would explain the whole matter and give a 
guarantee on the spot. However, as far as 
the chimney-sweep is concerned, his case is 
doubtful—reckon him amongst the “casuals.” 
The washerwoman, in my opinion, does not. 
count. The painter is your employee when 
working for himself, but not when he is em¬ 
ploying other persons. But, really, all these 
would not total £100 a year, all told, and any 
insurance company would cover the lot for 
half a crown, and take the risk (inclusive of 
law costs).- Barrister. 

Notice to quit allotments (Gardens).— 

You do not say whether any agreement was 
made with regard to notice in this case, yet 
everything depends upon whether there was 
any such agreement—express or implied, 
written or verbal. My impression is, how¬ 
ever, from what you say, that the notice is 
good. You see the tenancies date back to a 
time far before the Acts of recent years deal¬ 
ing with market gardens, allotments, and the 
like ; and it will, probably, prove, on investi¬ 
gation, that the six months’ notice is correct. 
But as regards compensation, you are clearly 
entitled to that, and I should advise you to 
join with the other allotment-holders to take 
the opinion of some local agricultural valuer 
as to the nature of the claims to be sent in. 
—Barrister. 


BIRDS. 

Death of canary (E . W .).—Your bird suc¬ 
cumbed to the disease called asthma by 
canary fanciers, a form of bronchitis to which 
canaries are somewhat subject, the breathing 
tubes being more or less inflamed. Cure is 
rarely effected, but any bird so suffering 
should be taken entirely off seed and fed 
upon one or other of the prepared soft foods 
that are now upon the market, medicating 
the water by adding just enough perman¬ 
ganate of potash to tint it slightly. The 
patient should be kept in a warm room, in a 
box-cage, and the atfnosphere should be kept 
moist by keeping water boiling upon a 
stove or lamp.—J. T. Bird. 

Food for thrush (T. O. JI .).—Hang the 
cage in the shade when the sun is hot, at 
other times the bird will enjoy the sunshine. 
Thrushes are not difficult to keep in health 
if three chief points be carefully observed. 
First, pay particular attention to all round 
cleanliness ; second, give plenty of variety in 
the way of food; and, third, 6eo that the 
water is fresh and pure. The bird should 
be allowed to bathe twice a week, except 
during winter. The bird does not need to be 
fed above twice a day, morning and night, 
but feed at regular hours. Hemp-seed is not 
a suitable food for thrushes, and your feeding 
had probably much to do with the death of 
your other birds. Feed your remaining bird 
as follows, and you will find that it will 
thrive : As a staple food, give lark-food, a 
prepared food obtainable anywhere where 
bird-seed is sold. Give also a little bread- 
and milk, squeezed nearly dry—say, twice a 
week, a meal of “zeke’ 1 —a prepared food 
readily obtainable—twice a week, earth¬ 
worms, snails, and meal worms, together or 
separate, freely every other day; and some 
shredded, lean raw meat when worms, etc., 
are not readily procurable. Give also, freely, 
sound, ripe fruit every other day.—J. T. 
BrRD. 

Death of saffron finch (Cornwall).—The bird 
died from rupture of the pulmonary artery. A little 
cold or a quarrel with one of the other birds might 
hasten its end. The bird had, probably, a weak con¬ 
stitution, and would have been difllcult. to winter. 
The death could not have been prevented. The 
feeding and management are difficult to improve 
upon. Give Millet and Canary-seed as much as the 
birds will eat. with Rape twice a week. Hemp the 
same—about half a teaspoonful of each per bird. 
Finch mixture, as bought, may also be given. —J. T. 
Bird. 


Index to Volume XXVIII.— The binding covers 
(price Is. 6d. each, post free, Is. 9d.) and Index (3d., 
post free, 3Jd.) for Volume XXVIII. are now ready, 
and may be had of all newsagents, or of the Pub¬ 
lisher, pn>f free, 2». for the two. 


4?9 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

Questions.— Queries and answers are inserted in 
Gardkmko free of charge if correspondents follow these 
rules: All communications should be clearly and concisely 
t rritten on one side of the paper only, and addressed to 
the Editor of Gardeaixo, 17, Furnnal-strect , Uolbom, 
London, E.C. Letters on business should be sent to the 
PcBLisiiBR. The name and address of the sender are 
required in addition to any designation he may desire to 
be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, 
each should be on a separate piece of paper, and not more 
than three queries should be sent at a time. Correspon¬ 
dents should bear in mind that, as Gardkni.vo has to be 
sent to press some time in advance of date, i/ueries rannvt 
always be replied to in the issue immediately following 
the receipt of their communication. We do not reply to 
queries by post. 

Naming fruit. —Readers who desire, our help in 
naming fruit should bear in mind that several specimens 
in different statics of colour and size of the same kiiul 
greatly assist in its determination. We have received from 
several correspondetits single specimens of fruits for 
twining, these in many cases being unripe and other¬ 
wise poor. The differences between varieties of fruits are 
in many cases so trifling that it is necessary that three 
sjwcimeus of each kind should be sent. We can undertake 
to twine only four varieties at a time, and these only when 
the above directions are observed. 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

Spent Hops as manure (Linolin).—We do not 
think spent Hops are of much value as manure, being 
about the same as half-decayed straw. When fresh 
from the brewery they form a very good mulch, fail¬ 
ing this they may be mixed with stable or farmyard 
manure or vegetable refuse, and occasionally turned 
to help them to decompose without becoming ob¬ 
noxious. 

Gentiana verna (G. G .).—This plant must have 
good, deep, gritty loam, on n level spot, perfect 
drainage, abundance of water during the summer, 
and full exposure to the sun. Grit or broken lime¬ 
stone may be freely mixed with the soil, but if the 
soil is very sandy, then these are not essential. A 
few pieces of sandstone half buried in the soil will 
help to cheek evaporation and guard the plant until 
it has begun to root. In moist districts where there 
is a good deep loam it may be grown at the front 
of a border, carefully surrounded by half-plunged 
stones. You should always procure strong, well- 
rooted pieces. We fear, however, that you will have 
little success with this alpine plant in your London 
garden. 

Dahlias, keeping (Afi#s A. Moore ).—When the 
frost, has blackened the leaves, and the ground is 
fairly dry, you should lift the Dahlias. The soil will 
crumble from the tubers, and they may then be 
stored in a dean state. Dahlia tubers should not be 
kept too dry. In a hot structure the tubers will start 
into growth too soon, and if too dry they will shrivel. 
A cellar is an excellent place in which to store them. 
Cover the tubers with soil, which will just keep them 
moist enough and also protect them from frost. If 
you have no cellar, then a stable or outhouse will 
answer, using the earth as a covering and over this 
some straw to protect from frost. Underneath the 
stage of a greenhouse is a good place, taking care 
that the tubers are dear of any drip that may fall 
on them when the plants on the stage are watered. 

Creepers for wall (S. A.).— The Clematis Jack- 
mani varieties would do quite well for the wall, but 
when these have made a free growth the plants de¬ 
pending over the south side of the wall will some¬ 
what mar the progress of the Roses. You could, of 
course, plant the Roses until the Clematises reach a 
good size, and then remove them, as it would take 
several years before the plants would be of a size to 
interfere with them. You might, in addition to the 
ordinary Clematis Jnckmnni, plant its varieties— 
Snow Queen and suptrba—and six plants in all of 
these would be sufficient. One of the most valuable 
Roses for the purpose would he Aim6e Vlbert, adding 
Celine Forestier and W. A. Richardson The same 
number of plants would da, or, if you wish for a 
quick covering, the number of plants could be in¬ 
creased at will. 

Plants for border (Monica).—We think there is 
a good opening for many plants, provided the border 
has received a good digging and a heavy dressing of 
manure, and you might plant the Flag Irises in 
many kinds, single and double Pyrethrums, Lenten 
and Christmas Roses, Trollius, Columbines, Heleniuina, 
Delphiniums, Pa-onies, Aster Amellus, a variety of 
Michaelmas Daisies, Phloxes, Gaillardias, Hepatieas. 
such Liliums as Hansoni, croceum, Martagon, tigri- 
num, speciosum, candidurn, testaceum, etc.. also 
Primula Sieboldi, P. rosea, P. C'ashmeriana, English 
and Spanish Irises, Daffodils, Adonis yernalis, Kni- 
phofla Nelsoni, K. Macowani, Erigeron speciosus, 
Erodium Manescavi, and the like. For the stone 
edging try the common garden Pinks, Thrift, Mossy 
Saxifrages, Aubrietias, Thymus lanuginosua, An- 
drosace lanuginosa. If the border is of considerable 
length you had better plant groups of one variety, 
say, three or five plants of each over a ground 
space of 3 feet or more to give immediate effect. 

Red-spider on Violets (Niphetos).—There is 
nothing so good as Quassia extract for red-spider, 
or, failing this, try a weak solution of “ Nicoticide. ' 
The latter, if the plants are badly attacked, should 
be used at the rate of two ordinary wineglasses to 
two or three gallons of soft water, stirring 
thoroughly before using, and frequently during the 
process of dipping. It will assist matters perhaps if 
in this samo quantity of water you first dissolve 
about 3 oz. of soft soap, beating all together to form 
a lather. Of the Quassia chips you would require 
about 1 lb., boiling them In an old, discarded sauce¬ 
pan until the chips sink to the bottom, subsequently 
straining away the liquid and auuing theretorS oz. 
of soft-soap first dissolved in boiling water. Well 
beat th^se together and then dip the plants therein, 



480 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


KovEMnER 2, 1907 


taking care that the surface of the leaves is well 
immersed in the liquid. The mixture should be 
about luke warm when used, and if you lay the 
plants rather closely on a garden mat or old doth or 
sacking, and defer the dipping to the evening, the 
plants will remain in u moist condition for a longer 
period, and thereby assist the object in view. 

Libonia floribunda (Madoc).— This is the name 
of the plant, flowering shoots of which you send. It 
is one of the most serviceable plants we have for the 
warm greenhouse or conservatory during late, autumn 
and in the early part of winter. It is neither diffi¬ 
cult to propagate nor to grow on afterwards, and the 
plants, being naturally of a dwarf, branching habit, 
become, if given proper attention, perfect little 
bushy specimens by the time they reach the flower 
Ing stage. A mixture of equal parts of peat and loam, 
with a liberal dash of sand added, suits its require¬ 
ments. In the summer months it does best in a cold- 
pit, and some growers stand the plants outdoors to 
get the wood well ripened, taking them in again about 
the time when Azaleas, etc., are housed. Frequent 
6yringing is necessary during hot weather, on account 
of red-spider,which,if once allowed to get a hold, will 
soon cause the leaves to turn yellow and drop, and 
so ruin the plants. The plants flower well in a 
temperature ranging between 50 degs. and 55. degs., 
and appreciate a slight stimulant in the shape or 
weak tepid liquid - manure. After flowering, the 
majority of the plants can be thrown away, it being 
only necessary to retain enough to furnish the needful 
supply oflcuttinga for another season. 

Treatment of Camellia. Amaryllis, and 
Crinum (Cheviot).— The Camellia is a fibrous-rooted 
evergreen shrub, and must not on any account be 
subjected to a drying-off process, otherwise it will be 
killed outright, or so severely injured that it will be 
a difficult matter to restore it to health. The soil 
should be kept in, as far as possible, an even state of 
moisture both winter and summer. The Amaryllis, 
being a bulb, needs entirely different treatment. 
Spring is its flowering season, after which the growth 
is made so that summer is well advanced before the 
growth is complete. By the end of August less water 
at the roots and full exposure to sunshine are very 
necessary. The leaves will then turn quite yellow, 
and when the bulb is thoroughly dormant water may 
be withheld entirely, and the plant wintered in a 
temperature of 45 degs. to 55 degs. In February, 
with the sun gaining power, the bulb will begin to 
show signs of starting into growth, when a little 
water must be given, increasing the supply as the 
leaves develop. The Crinum may be treated much 
the same as the Amaryllis, except that as offsets are 
so numerous the plant may just before it starts into 
growth be turned out of the pot, the soil removed, 
and all the offsets taken off. They can then be potted 
separately, the parent bulb being also put into a pot 
by itself. 

Making a garden (.4. J. II .).—If the pasture is 
an old one, the top spit should he of some value to 
you later on in making your garden. If you can 
estimate vour requirements in this respect, you 
might take oil the top spit-that is, the Grass and 
sod beneath-to about 3 inches or 4 inches deep, 
and, in some out-of-the-way corner, stack it, so that 
the Grass will decay. This decayed material will 
be of much value in making Rose and other flower¬ 
beds a few months later on. The top spit should 
be stacked with the Grass side downwards, and. if 
available, some decayed horse-dung could be added 
in lavers at a few inches apart. In this way your 
turf heap would be of value for potting, for making 
a Vine-border, or for Rose or other flower-beds. You 
do not say whether the soil is heavy or light. As to 
thp wireworms, if these exist, a large number will 
he taken with the turf and perish in the heat of the 
decaving material. Should the pest still exist in the 
land your better plan will be to obtain some gas- 
lime and spread this over the land for the air, rain, 
and frost to presently net upon it. When the lime 
is eventually broken down and spread evenly over 
the surface, the entire area may he trenched up 
roughly. If the wireworms are non-existent the 
trenching might be proceeded with at once, leaving 
the surface as rough as possible, so that the weather 
may have full play upon it. 

drafting Clematises (A. Jones). —The method of 
grafting the Clematis is as follows: Having plants 
established in pots of the varieties it is intended to 
propagate, a few of each kind are, about the end of 
February, taken into the temperature of a green¬ 
house, when they will at once start into growth: and 
when the young shoots are sufficiently firm, grafting 
mav be commenced. Each shoot will form more than 
one scion, as a Joint, with the two opposite leaves 
and the piece of stem below are quite enough tor a 
acion. The stocks are formed of the string-like, 
fleshy roots, generally of Clematis V italbn, each piece 
of root that is sufficiently stout being available. A 
mutilated root must not be used ns a stock—that is 
to suv, one with the lower part cut off. as all the 
fibrous portions must be retained. The lower por¬ 
tion of the scion must be fashioned like a wedge a 
keen knife being used, and the stock split sufficiently 
far to Insert it. It should then be tied securely in its 
place with soft grafting cotton. Then, when finished, 
each one is to be potted into a small pot, at such a 
denth that the point of union is just covered with 
the soil. In order Hint this can be earned out the 
lonn. strinz-like root is twisted round the pot till it 
is at the required depth. These grafts are then 
plunged Into a close propagating case, with a gentle 
bottom-heat, and quickly become established. A 
good deal of the success or otherwise will 
unon the after treatment, such as shading from sun- 
shine, and particularly In preventing the young sue 
eulent leaves from damping on. lhis decay, which 
Sometimes sets in. is caused by the nlr of: the pro- 
pagatlne-case being too much surcharged with 
rnoislure Hence, the lights should he raised at times 
to allow the moUtiiM-So escape, esofcially 

'h.T 


riling. 

:!! «hnv: 


A litno^immnre amj 
than words how 



When u union Is effected, which will be seen by the 
plants starting into growth, air must he gradually 
given till the plants are inured to the ordinary 
atmosphere of the house. The roots should be taken 
into the propagating-house a few days before they 
are required for grafting. 

TREES AND SHRUBS. 

Cutting back a Cotoneaster (Enquirer ).—You 
may safely cut back your Cotouea-ster next spring, 
and in doing so thin out any old and exhausted wood, 
and where this leaves a bare space nail in some of the 
young shoots. The branches that extend from the 
wall may be cut in to two or three eye®. 

FRUIT. 

Melon seeds germinating (X. Y. Z.).—It is not 
at all unusual for the seeds of Melons to start grow¬ 
ing in the way the photograph you send us shows. 
We have seen it occur when Melons, in order to 
hasten their ripening, have been subjected to strong 
heat, and but little ventilation given up to the time 
of cutting, and have also known the same thing 
happen when, owing to want of sufficient heat, the 
fruits are such a long time in maturing that before 
they art* ready for cutting the seeds commence grow¬ 
ing. 

Gathering Medlars (Subscriber).— It is best to 
allow Medlars to hang late, as they are long in 
maturing, and if gathered too early they shrivel. As 
a rule, they should not be gathered until early in 
November, blit much depends on the nature of the 
season. In gathering, do not pull the fruits off 
violently, but rather leave them a week later to 
cause them to part from the tree freely. If the 
skins are much broken or injured, decay is apt to 
follow. The fruits when gathered should be laid out 
on shelves thinly, with the upper or calyx side placed 
downwards. It is said that if the stem be dipped 
into a strong solution of salt it hardens it and check® 
decay. Medlars are not edible until the flesh softens. 

Suckers to wall fruit-trees (Malt ).—To clear 
fruit-trees of suckers the proper course was to open 
the soil right down to the roots, and with a sharp 
knife cut awav all suckers, leaving only smooth, 
clean wounds. * If the roots be left with jagged 
wound®, such as digging with a spade produces, then 
suckers form again in plenty, and it seems very likely 
after the digging treatment the roots of your wall 
trees have received that suckers will again grow plen¬ 
tifully. If not too late, better follow that course 
now, ’as it i® best done when the trees are at rest. 
Then, after finding the roots, properly prune them 
of suckers, lift them up, put some fresh loam a few 
inches thick beneath them, then relay the roots, and 
cover them with 6 inches thickness of fresh loamy 
soil. Really, vou should not put any vegetable crops 
on the border within C feet of the trees for a year 
at least. No doubt, the trees also need liberal winter 
pruning, and mulching with manure next spring. 

Large-leaved Vine (B. M. DA.—It is very 
evident, judging bv the sample leaf sent, that your 
Black Hamburgh Vine is growing in a border which 
i® too light, porous, and rich. Possibly the border 
gets dressed with strong manure. In any ease, the 
leaves indicate the presence in the border of too 
much ammonia, and the wood and fruit loo little 
phosphate and potash. The roots also have far too 
much run, and would be better if restricted. In any 
case after the Vine-leaves have fallen, remove the 
top soil down to the roots, then add to the bottom 
soil wood ashes, old mortar refuse, and soot, well 
fork in these, tread the soil fairly firm, relay the 
roots and replace surface soil after mixing similar 
ingredients as named tfith that also. This top or 
surface-coat should not exceed four inches in thick¬ 
ness Tread that also, then lay over it S-ineh thick¬ 
ness of stable litter to ward off frost. In the spring 
aut.lv a very light dressing of kaimt and bone-flour 
to wash in.’ Though the leaves are large they lack 
substance. 

Stone-splitting in Peaches (E. C. Ii.).-The 
same cause which induces stone-split ting in jour 
Peaches and Nectarines also causes the splitting or 
the fruits, and there are conditions evidently in the 
house which cause the split pulp or flesh soon to de¬ 
cay. Some varieties of Peaches split stones more 
than others, and, where the culture is good, imper¬ 
fect fertilisation of the flowers is the cause. But. in 
the majority of cases, and yours specially so, it is 
the roots that are at fault. Beyond gathering all 
diseased fruit® and destroying them, you can do 
little good just now. When the tree-leaves fall, open 
the soil, carefully lift all the rrots, remove C inches 
thickness of the soil beneath, replace it with fresh, 
sweet loam, with which i® mixed plenty of wood 
ashes and old mortar refuse, tread it fairly arm, 
relay tne root®, dust them with lime, then cover up 
with more fresh soil, as mentioned, again treading 
it Arm. Generally, Peach borders are too light and 
porous, and contain too little phosphate, potash, and 
lime. In the spring, when new growth begins, give 
a mulch of manure over the root® for the summer, 
and later liberal watering®. In the winter give the 
tree® gentle svringings with the caustic soda solution 
in a weak form, once in November and again once 

Shortening orchard fruit trees 07. SX --Yes; 
vou mav with safety shot ten back the head® of jour 
Apple-tree® to render them of a more convenient 
height provided it is judiciously done and the opera¬ 
tion spread over two or three seasons. To cut out 
too manv branches at one time tends to produce a 
paralysing effect on the root-system, and must there¬ 
fore be guarded against. By taking out the worst 
offending branches the first season, and then cut¬ 
ting out the remainder or such as are found necessary 
to reduce the heads to the desired height, we have 
in an orchard successfully dealt with a good many 
Apple and Pear tree®, which were taller than yours, 
during the past five or six years. We. therefore, nd- 
to proceed on these same lines, and com- 
i- 1 — ( 0 the re- 


with another or other branches growing out in a more 
lateral direction, making clean cuts. Either paint or 
tar the wounds at once. Tift others can then be re¬ 
moved, some in the second and the remainder the 
third year. Autumn or, say, November is the best 
time to do the work, and if you are unacquainted with 
tree-pruning employ a practical man to do the w^rk 
for you. 

VEGETABLES. 

Cabbages clubbing (M. B. P. and L. Johnson).— 
The best remedy for clubbing, from which the Cauli¬ 
flower and Cabbage you mention are suffering, 
whether it be engendered by slime fungus or by the 
club-beetle, is, without doubt, gas-lime. That should 
be applied to’vacant ground at once, at the rate of 
2 bushel® to 3 rods, if clubbing is very bad. If it be 
not. then put 1 bushel to 2 rods of ground. After 
lying on the ground from four to six weeks, dig the 
dressing in. Even a good dressing at the same rate 
of fresh lime is good also. Rather than plant any of 
the Cabbage tribe, plant Potatoes. Beak ale. or Rhu¬ 
barb, or sow Onions, Parsnip®, or Beet —indeed, any¬ 
thing other than Cabbage. By doing so Tor a couple 
of years the club trouble may disappear. Peas or 
Beans also may be sown with advantage. 

Vegetables for exhibition (C. J. C .).—Before 
we could fully reply to your question, we should want 
to learn whether at any chow you wish to exhibit, 
any code of points was prescribed. Generally, unless 
pointing by marks is compulsory on judges they de¬ 
cide the merits of collections of vegetables without 
pointing. The best plan is that adopted by the com¬ 
mittee of the Great Show at Shrewsbury, where, in 
issuing pointing cards to the judges for pointing the 
collection of nine dishes for their champion prize, 
some fourteen or fifteen vegetable® were all put on the 
same footing—that is, were allowed a maximum of 
seven points each, according to their quality as re¬ 
presenting the highest excellence of their kind. When 
that is so, all kinds start equal. There, Cauliflowers. 
Leeks, Celery, Onions, Potatoes, Carrots, Tomatoes, 
Peas, and Runner Beans were in almost every collec¬ 
tion, showing the value competitors placed on them. 
Other good vegetables are Cucumbers, Beets, Par¬ 
snip®. Marrows, and Turnips, failing any one or more 
of the nine named. The book you require. Beckett's 
“ Vegetables for Exhibition, " price 3®. 6d., can be had 
of Messrs. Himpkin and Marshall. Publisher®, 4. 
Stationers' Hall-cmrt. London, or you may get it 
through a local bookseller. 


SHORT REPLIES 


ibservation mence bv cutting bark the tallest branches to the re- 
o be duni'. quired height, or to a point nliere they form a fork 


A. If. G.— We know of no plants that will stand 
ga® for any length of time, and the only way is to 

make frequent changes.- Scotia.— You cannot do 

better than plant Poplars, as you suggest.— -Mac.— 
You had better get someone on the spot to advise 
vou as to the treatment of your neglected orchard 
trees. All depends on the condition of the trees at 

the roots.-HVIhon and Co— You should write to 

the secretary or the Royal Agricultural Society, 16. 
Bedford-square, London, W.C., and ask if any of the 
articles in the “ Journal " on “ Hop-growing " have 
heen republished. An expensive hook has been pub¬ 
lished on Hop-growing.- J. M. —We think your best 

plan will be to ask some professional man to visit the 
garden and advise you as to the best course. It is 
very difficult for us to advise as you afford us no 
particular® with regard to the size of the garden, the 

height of the w alls, etc. - P. W. Connolly.-* rite 

to Geo. Monro, Covent Garden, or Webber and Co., 
also of Covent Garden. We do not reply to queries 

by post.-.4 You tip Header.- You send no name or 

addles®, hence it is quite impossible to advise you as 
to whether there is a likelihood of the plants you in¬ 
quire about succeeding.- J. II. Millwood. —A very 

suitable book for you would be Hobdays villa 

Gardening,’’ from this office.- Pomona.- See reply 

to D. Smith, rc “ Growing for market,” in our issue 
oi September 7th. p. 372. 

NAMES OF PLANTS AND FRUITS. 

Names of plants. -Scotia.-Specimens insuffi¬ 
cient.- J. I. 8 .—Zinnia elegans.- Mrs. tawkes.- 

The Masterwort (Astrantia major).-— A.M.J.- 

The blue Marguerite (Agathwa coelesfcis).-No signa 

lure. I, Saxifraga longifolia; 2, May he S. Macnan- 
ia.na, cannot be certain without flowers; 3, Evi¬ 
dently S. Wallacei, must have flowers.- A. Clark.- 

1 , Adiantum pedatum; 2. Aspfdium angulare grand! 

cops; 3, Scolopendrium vulgare.- E. F 1, Berheri- 

dopsi® corallina: 2, Without flowers it. is quite im¬ 
possible to name correctly.- J. Collier.— 1, Salvia 

Horminuin: 2, The Corsican Tine (Pinna Larieio) :3, 
\bie® lasiocarpa; 4. Abies pectinata; 5, The white 
Pine (Pinus Strohua); 6. Juniperu® sp. When sending 
Fir® for name it is important that fruiting branches. 

if possible, be sent.- G. F. M -The Caper Spurge 

(Euphorbia Lathyris). 

names ot Irult.-*. A -Pears : 1. Evmwk! : 2. 

Beurre Diel.-.4. Spence.—Apple Yorkshire C.reeu- 

ing. ___. 

Catalogues received —E. P. Dixon and Son®, 

Hull.—Nursery List for 1907. -SI ilia and Groot. En 

khuizen, Holland. -Advance Price List of Vegetable, 

Flower, and Agricultural Seeds. -Henry Drew, Long 

worth, Faringdon, Berk®.— Catalogue of the Thames 

Valley Roses. -Geo. Cooling and Sons, Bath.— List 

of Roses, Fruit-trees, and Ornamental Shrubs. 

Book received- — 11 Two Legs and Other Stories, 
by Carl Ewald. Methuen and Co.. 3G, Essex street, 
Strand, W.C. _ 

Specimens of fruit -We should like to caution 
our reader.® against the common practice of sticking 
pin® into fruit® >.nt for naming. One lady recently 
I Juried! numerous pins in Plums, Apples, and Pears 
sent us_and an accident fhat might have had serious 
results wa- narrowly averted- 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


No. 1,496.— Vol. XXIX. 


Founded by W. Robinson, Author of “The English Flower Garden." NOVEMBER 9, 1907. 


INDEX. 


Abelias .483 

Aktrcemerias from seed 490 
Apples, dessert, for 
heavy soil .. 491 

Apples, dessert, to 

plant .491 

Artichoke, Jerusalem, 
in bloom, the .. .. 482 

Astern, late .. .. 488 

Azaleas, imported .. 492 
Beils, varying the sur¬ 
face of.487 

Begonia Rex in the 

winter.486 

Birds .493 

Brussels Sprout Dwarf 

Gem .482 

Bulbs, treatment of .. 485 

Cabbage Improved Non¬ 
pareil .482 

Cabbage, Red, pickling 494 


Celery-fly, the .. .. 482 

Chrysanthemum early- 
flowering Pompon Fil¬ 
bert* .481 

Chrysanthemum Esine 

Reed .484 

Chrysanthemum II. J. 

Jones, 1908 .. .. 484 

Chrysanthemums .. 484 
Chrysanthemum s— 
keeping the flowers 484 

Chrysanthemums, now 484 
Clematis graveolens .. 488 
Conservatory, unhealed 492 
Cornua macrophylla 
(syn. C. brachypoda).. 483 
Cosmos bipinnatus .. 491 
Dahlias, Cactus .. 487 

Dahlias, new .. .. 487 

Delphiniums .. .. 487 

Desfontainea spinosa .. 494 


Fernery, the hanly 


489 

Ferns 


488 

Ferns, seedling 


489 

Fig-wort (Phygelius 
ensis), Cape 

cap- 

488 

Forcing-house 


492 

Fruit 


491 

Fruit crops, the .. 


491 

Fruit garden 


492 

Fruit-trees, slitting the 


bark of .. 


494 

Garden diary, extracts 


from a 

Garden pests 

and 

492 

friends .. 


491 

Garden work 


492 

Ground, vacant, trench- 


ing. 


481 

Gymnogramma schizo- 


phylla 


488 

Hoya, treatment of 


494 


Indoor plants 

486 

Laurels, etc., cutting 


back . 

484 

Law and custom 

493 

Leucojum aulumnale .. 

488 

Lilac - trees, cutting 


back . 

494 

Lilium Yoshidai.. 

488 

Mealy-bug (Dactylopius 


adonidum) 

490 

Melons, late. 

491 

Moss in lawn 

489 

Mushroom-house 

482 

Mushrooms on lawns .. 

482 

Onions . 

481 

Orchard planting, mis- 


takes in. 

491 

Orchids. 

490 

Outdoor garden .. 

492 

Outdoor plants .. 

487 

Pwony, a new .. 

488 


Peach-houses, ripening 
the wood in late .. 492 
Peach Princess of 

Wales.491 

Peach-trees, old .. .. 491 

Pears spotted .. .. 490 

Plants and flowers .. 484 
Plants for marshy 

ground.488 

Plants in the house . 492 

Plum-tree carrying a 
second crop .. .. 491 

Pomegranate, dwarf .. 491 

Poultry.493 

Root crops, the .. .. 482 

Rose Marshal Niel 
under glass .. .. 486 

Rose notes .. .. 485 | 

Roses .485 

Roses, some recent or 
uncommon Monthly.. 485 


Royal Horticultural So¬ 
ciety .493 

Sophronitis grandiflora 490 
Tomatoes failing .. 491 
Tomatoes under glass .. 482 
Trees and shrubs .. 483 
Vegetable garden .. 492 
Vegetables .. 481 

Vinery, lato 492 

Vine borders, forming 
new .. .. 494 

Vine, lifting a 494 

Vine-weevil, the.. .. 490 

Vines, pruning .. ..494 

Violets failing to open 491 
Violets in frames .. 492 
Weed in lawn .. 494 

Weedy turf ..488 

Week s work, the com¬ 
ing .492 

Winter Quarrenden .. 491 


VEGETABLES. 

ONION'S. 

Any grower .seeing the remarkable and ex¬ 
cellent collection of Onions staged at a re¬ 
cent meeting of the Royal Horticultural So¬ 
ciety by Messrs. Dobbie, and grown by them 
on their Essex seed farm at Marks Toy, 
might naturally be expected to ask why, with 
such superb home-grown bulbs, and all pro¬ 
duced under normal conditions of culture, 
we should yet find the needs of the people in 
relation to Onions chiefly supplied by peram¬ 
bulating Brittany peasants, who, growing 
Onions in great abundance in that part of 
France, send their surplus here in the 
autumn, and, made into neat ropes or clus¬ 
ters, hawk them literally into every part of 
the Kingdom. Here we have, land in abund¬ 
ance, labour in too great abundance, a cli¬ 
mate, as Messrs. Dobbie have shown in a 
far from favourable season, suitable to Onion 
production, and yet we prefer, rather than to 
grow Onions, to leave to the enterprising 
peasants of another country to furnish the 
needful supply. This collection consisted of 
seventy varieties, many of them, of course, 
differing almost solely in name. But every 
variety known in commerce was fairly well 
represented. The bulbs were staged in neat 
baskets in bulk, and were set up with great 
taste. Every bulb was, for the variety it re¬ 
presented, of good size and form. The seed 
was sown in tne open ground on March 2nd, 
and the plants received no other attention 
than frequent hoeings and a proper thinning. 
Generally, ripening or maturing was late be¬ 
cause of the lateness of the season, yet it has 
to be said that in the very best of Onion 
seasons no one ever saw better grown bulbs, 
cleaner, firmer, brighter, or more perfectly 
ripened. To have a thoroughly representa¬ 
tive collection, the firm had obtained seed 
from France, Germany, Holland, Italy, and 
America. That from such diverse sources ell 
should have done so well, and produced such 
perfect bulbs, speaks volumes for the fitners 
of Essex soil to furnish crops of Onions equal 
to what the most favourable climates can pro¬ 
duce. Red Onions of diverse shades or hues 
were numerous. Dark red were : Blood Red, 
Dobbie’s Selected Red (very fine), and the 
Dutch Blood Red. Of paler hue was Burpee’s 
Red Victoria, Red Giant Rocca, and August 
Red, flattish, and of French origin. Of glo¬ 
bular forms, and these gave the largest and 
heaviest samples, with brown skins, were 
Cranston’s Excelsior, Sutton’s Perfection, 
Dobbie’s Golden Globe, Ailsa Craig, the Sut¬ 
ton Globe, and Cocoa-nut. Of the round or 
flat forms with brown skin, the best were Long 
Keeper, Up-to-Date, Anglo-Spanish, Main 
Crop. Walker’s Exhibition, Southport Yellow, 
Rousham Park Hero, Nuneham Park, and 
Brown Globe. Necessarily, there were many 
others, not here named. 

No one imagines that seventy, or even 
ipore, varieties of Onions are needful. A 
selection of a dozen, auch as, for autumn 

Digitized by 'glC 


I sowing or spring sowing, Excelsior, Ailsa 
Craig, Main Crop, Banbury Cross, Sutton 
Globe, and Up-to-Date is ample, with the two 
first-named for winter or January sowing. 
Of reds. Crimson G lobe and Dobbie’s Red are 
ample ; and of whites for first early bulbing, 
Nocera and the Queen. If any wish for soft 
Onions for autumn sowing, Giant Rocca and 
Globe Tripoli suffice. Were, other than these 
few', every Onion in commerce destroyed, no 
loss to the nation’s Onion crop need follow. 
There remains the great economic fact that if 
our people had but a tithe of the energy and 
enterprise of the Brittany peasantry, Onions 
in ample quantities to supply all the nation’s 
needs might be grown here at home. In con¬ 
trast to these field-grown Onions were, at the 
same meeting, two lots of about 100 bulbs 
each of Ailsa Craig, grown on richer soil, in 
gardens, and raised from sowings made in 
warmth in midwinter. Somewhat the finest 
bulbs and cleanest came from Mr. H. Bar¬ 
ber’s garden, Culham Court, Henley-on- 
Thames (gardener, Mr. Turnham). These 
ranged from 1£ lb. to 2 lb. in weight, and were 
admirably ripened. The other collection of 
bulbs, just a little loss in size, and somewhat 
spotted, came from Mr. R. H. Comyns’ gar¬ 
den, Watford. Herts (gardener, Mr. Water 
ton). The two collections helped to illustrate 
the newer form of culture, and showed how 
easy it is in that way to produce extra fine 
bulbs to form a most valuable and profitable 
crop. D. 


TRENCHING VACANT GROUND. 

At this season of the year there are usually 
many plots of ground vacant in the kitchen 
garden. This affords an opportunity for 
double digging or trenching any of the said 
plots standing in need of such treatment, 
evidence of which may, perhaps, have been 
given by the crop, whatever it may have 
been, not. succeeding so well as could be 
wished. It is always a good plan to under¬ 
take work of this description as early as 
circumstances will permit after the ground is 
cleared, as timely trenching admits of the 
soil settling down into place before the plot, 
or plots, are required for sowing and plant¬ 
ing, while the surface, if thrown up roughly, 
has ample time to become sweetened and 
disintegrated by exposure. All good culti¬ 
vators recognise the importance of and 
the advantages to be derived from this 
trenching, or deep stirring of the soil, so 
arranging the cropping that any particular 
plot requiring to be so dealt with will become j 
vacant at the right moment. To attempt the 
trenching of a large area at one time would, 
in many cases, involve the expenditure of 
more labour than could be afforded, but by 
spreading the work over a series of seasons, 
when a garden of considerable extent has to 
be dealt with, it can be accomplished with¬ 
out. interfering much with the ordinary 
routine. The unfortunate thing is that there 
is a vast number who do not realise the 
value of deep cultivation for the well-being 


of vegetable crops, and so long as the top spit 
is turned over year after year in succession 
they are content. Yet, when a season of 
drought occurs, they wonder why their Peas 
and other crops, the roots of which, under 
such trying conditions, need a good depth of 
soil in which to ramify and obtain supplies of 
moisture, die off so quickly or yield such in¬ 
different results. It is for those who come 
under this category that this note is intended, 
and if they would only set to work at this 
time of year, or a little later, if more con¬ 
venient, and break up the hard and almost 
impervious subsoil, digging into it such 
materials as the accumulation of rubbish 
whieh is generally to be found in some out-of- 
the-way spot in most gardens, or the leaves 
and sweepings from walks and drives, etc.— 
i.c., if man lire is out of the question they 
would lie surprised at the benefit resulting 
therefrom. In addition to deep-rooting sub¬ 
jects appreciating and thriving all the 
more luxuriantly for being provided with a 
larger and deeper area in which the roots 
can ramify at will, the very fact of the sub¬ 
soil being broken up and fortified either with 
manure or such substances as have been al¬ 
ready alluded to, renders it more capable of 
absorbing and retaining moisture ; conse¬ 
quently much less water need be applied to 
the roots artificially in hot, dry weather. 
Some make the mistake when trenching of 
bringing the subsoil or bottom spit to the 
surface. They place the good soil from the 
top at the. bottom of the trench, and then 
condemn the operation as unsatisfactory, and 
not leading to any good results. There are a 
few instances, no doubt, where the top and 
bottom spits may have their order reversed 
with advantage, but, as a rule, the bottom 
spit or subsoil is best left in position after 
being dealt with as recommended. The chief 
or great object in trenching, or double dig- 
ing, is to break up the hard pan underlying 
the surface soil, and if this is effected in a 
proper manner, a very marked improvement 
in the condition of future crops will be ob¬ 
servable, while the ultimate yield will be 
found considerably enhanced. 

With regard to the manner in which the 
work should be carried out, the first thing is 
to measure off the plot to be trenched in strips 
3 feet wide, putting in a stake to mark each 
place oil either side of the plot. The trench¬ 
ing may be done either in the length of the 
plot or the width, whichever may bo most 
convenient. This decided, proceed to dig out 
the soil one spit deep from the first 3-feet, 
strip, shovel out the loose soil, or crumbs, as 
well, and wheel the whole to the opposite end 
of the ground. This will be required for 
filling in the last trench with. Then wheel 
in either the manure or the contents of the 
rubbish-heap, spreading it equally over the 
bottom of the trench to the depth of 4 inches 
or 5 inches, and with a fork proceed to dig up 
the bottom spit or subsoil, breaking the soil 
well to pieces, and mixing the manure, etc., 
as intimately with it os possible, This done, 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 






























482 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


November 9, 1907 


manure the top spit of the next 3-feet strip, 
then dig and cast it on the top of broken-up 
subsoil in the first trench, and proceed in this 
way until the whole plot has been dealt with. 
After the turn of the year there are sure to be 
some inequalities in the surface which will 
need to be rectified ; then, if the whole of the 
site is dug over with a fork, some 4 inches or 
5 inches in depth, it will be ready for what¬ 
ever crop it is desired to grow thereon. l)o 
not use half-worn-out implements for this 
purpose, for both spades and forks should be 
of full length, otherwise the soil will not be 
moved to the requisite depth. A. W. 


THE ROOT CROPS. 

At one time the root crops promised to be 
anything but good, for so unfavourable was 
the weather in Uuj early part of the summer 
that for a long time little progress was made 
in the way of to]) growth, and it looked as 
though there would be a shortage of such 
vegetables as Onions, main crop Carrots, and 
Beetroot. With the advent of August mat¬ 
ters began to mend, and although for a time 
growth was anything but rapid, the tops 
gradually began to spread and cover the 
ground between the rows. After the third 
week in August good progress was made, and, 
with the exception of Onions—which were 
ready for harvesting at the end of September 
—the roots are now pretty well matured, and 
will he ready for lifting in a fortnight’s time. 
In regard to the quality of the produce, Car¬ 
rots are quite as good as usual; Beets are a 
trifle smaller, hut none the worse for this, as 
medium-sized roots are by far the best fla¬ 
voured, and more tender in the flesh than 
larger examples ; Ailsa Craig Onions are not 
quite so large, but James’ Keeping and Im¬ 
proved Reading are quite lip to the average. 
Parsnips, which were, of course, sown much 
earlier, never appeared to feel the effects of 
the unfavourable weather experienced in 
June and July, and continued growing with¬ 
out check, and there is, as a result, a fine 
crop of well-shaped roots ready for use, the 
variety being Tender and True. The earliest 
crops of Carrots, which were, of necessity, 
sown in a warmer position, turned out re¬ 
markably well. and were ready for drawing 
at quite the usual time. Inimitable, Early 
Gem. aiul Champion Horn, sown iu the order 
named, were the varieties relied on for the 
earliest supply, and all these proved ex¬ 
tremely satisfactory in every respect. Globe- 
shaped Beet, was sown the third week in 
April, and the roots were ready for use the 
second week iu August, or about three weeks 
later than the customary time, since when 
there ha-s been a continuous supply obtained 
from successive sowings, as large or over¬ 
grown roots of this variety of Beet are very 
coarse in texture and bad in colour. Jerusa¬ 
lem Artichokes made enormous growth, some 
of the stems being 10 feet, in height, hut al¬ 
though the tubers are plentiful enough, they 
will he small compared with the produce of 
former seasons. Fortunately, T have a large 
breadth of these, so that the likelihood of the 
enpplv running short is a rather remote one. 

G. I‘. K. 


THE CELERY FLY. 

Mr Herbert Thackeray drew attention, 
on page 373. to the prevalence of the Celery 
fly in the autumn of most years; but I did not 
observe that he laid any particular stress 
on the extent of damage that is wrought 
among Celery crops this year. It amounts 
almost to a plague. Everywhere one may 
see evidence of the great injury inflicted. 
Not until the month of September was ad¬ 
vancing were there signs of this trouble. Up 
to that period the rows of Celery looked very 
promising. The inroads of the Celery-fly in 
such great numbers brought dismay to many, 
because the outlook was changed so suddenly 
and so completely. In some gardens Parsley 
is similarly affected, though not to the same 
extent as the Celery. Those, perhaps, who 
are accustomed to the visits of this fly in 
recurring seasons may be prepared with a 
remedy ; those, however, who are only occa¬ 
sionally victimised were scarcely prepared for 
so sudclen and so disastrous an attack. The 
usual remedy of pinching the spot in the 
leaf where the hidden, ^rushing it 



between the finger and thumb, would have 
been a formidable one, and the removal of 
all infested leaves would have stripped the 
plants of almost every vestige of green. 
Soot and lime mixed and freely scattered 
over the plants had hut little effect, but no 
doubt, the early egg-laying period was allowed 
to have progressed somewhat before steps 
were taken to destroy the flies. The ammonia 
rising from an overhead spraying of guano- 
water might, have held the insects iri check 
for a short time; but, though 1 have no posi¬ 
tive proof of its efficacy, I doubt whether 
the persistency of the, egg laying insect 
would have been checked by such application. 
What is so remarkable is the great virulence, 
as well as the suddenness, of the visit, for it 
lias been observed that as many as five or 
six grubs are clustered together in small leaf 
areas. Petroleum emulsions have been 
often looked upon as the best deterrent, in¬ 
sects of no kind appreciating the smell of 
this fluid. Even this needs somewhat fre¬ 
quent repetition, because of its ready evapo¬ 
ration. and, as is well known, a too frequent 
application of petroleum emulsion acts most 
unfavourably on the growth of any plant. 
An acquaintance of mine spent many hours 
syringing his Celery-rows in the evening 
with Quassia preparations; but nil inspec¬ 
tion of his plants and a search for maggots 
did not reveal any material result. Air. 
Thackeray claims that guano solutions will 
kill the grub and stimulate the plants, a 
doctrine few will accept, for the difficulty of 
applying anything that will roach the grub 
actively burrowing between the outer leaf- 
skins is well known to gardeners. Anything 
that would destroy life thus protected must 
of necessity act unfavourably on the plants 
themselves. Your correspondent admits the 
hopeless task of attacking the flies them 
solves, or destroying the chrysalides in the 
ground. If birds do not come to the rescue, 
what happens? It would seem that the 
varied devices of the gardener affect them 
hut little. It is a strange law of the insect 
world that their numbers vary so much from 
year to year. The passing season lias been a 
remarkably productive one as affecting all 
kinds of outdoor insects. From its earliest 
inception there would seem to have been a 
series of visitations of every known species. 
There would seem, indeed, to have been 
some quite new, or. at any rate, unfamiliar 
plant and tree pests. It remains a mystery 
why, when the elements are, so to apeak, 
antagonistic, insects arc the more apparent 
and difficult of annihilation. 

West Wilts. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Mushrooms on lawns. —Mushrooms arc a 
very uncertain crop, except under the expert 
management of men who make a specialty 
of their culture. Although an amateur may 
follow the best cultural advice he can get 
and take great pains iu preparing the 
manure and making the bed. yet the least 
overheating or some other trifling cause will 
upset all his calculations, and no Mushrooms 
come to reward his toil. On the other hand, 
we frequently see good crops coming up 
where they are least expected. 1 have lately 
seen abundance of beautiful button Mush¬ 
rooms on a new piece of lawn, that was 
trenched up in the spring, and a quantity of 
stable manure worked into it, so as to be 
ready for planting Roses, etc., in the 
autumn. The Grass seed was sown at the 
beginning of September, and the law n is now 
of a lovely verdant green; hut Mushrooms 
have sprung up to such an extent as to prove 
very troublesome, by reason of lifting up 
large clumps of the young Gross.—J. G., 

(rOSJJOlt. 

Tomatoes under glass. Still further re¬ 
duce the foliage of the plants in cool houses, 
and, of course, less water will he required. 
The object now is to get the fruit ripe with as 
little expense of fuel as possible, and wc are 
giving less ventilation, closing earlier in the 
afternoon, to bottle up the sunshine. I think 
we have never had a better crop, and there 
has been no disease. During the early sum¬ 
mer the ventilation is very free, but now we 
are not afraid of disease, as the atmosphere 
will be kept drier. Our early batch of Sun¬ 
rise is still growing and setting fruit. Last 


year the plants in the same house went on 
hearing till Christmas. We never leave any 
plant in a house if the crop is not paying for 
its keep. Laurenson’s No. 3 is bearing a very 
heavy crop in another house, and Chemin 
Rouge is a good old variety. Altogether the 
Tomato crop indoors has paid this season 
rather better than usual. 

Cabbage Improved Nonpareil.- There are 
two seasons in the year when Cabbages are 
most appreciated, and that is in spring and 
autumn. The reason why they are then so 
preferred is not far to seek, inasmuch as at 
these two particular periods the flavour is less 
strong, and, when properly cooked, every por¬ 
tion of the heart is most toothsome and pala¬ 
table. To have a good supply of Cabbages 
for autumn use requires no great amount of 
skill, the matter resolving itself into simply 
sowing the seed in May and June, getting the 
resulting plants set out on a piece of ground 
in good heart before they get drawn and 
spindly in the seed-bed. With regard to 
varieties, I prefer the one mentioned at the 
head of this note for autumn and early winter 
use, and find it admirably adapted for that 
purpose. As implied by the name, it is an 
improved strain of the old and well-known 
Nonpareil, and yields a medium-sized, com¬ 
pact heart, which, when cooked, leaves no¬ 
thing to be desired. 1 grow a large breadth, 
the earliest to come in for cutting just when 
the Kidney Beans begin to fail, and they are 
always greatly appreciated. Those who are 
in the habit of relying on some of the coarser 
kinds for their autumn supply would do well 
to give Improved Nonpareil a trial.—W. K. 

Brussels Sprout Dwarf Gem.— Having, 
through force of circumstances, to grow this 
season’s breadth of Brussels Sprouts on a 
piece of ground liable to he swept by cold, 
biting winds from the northeast. I decided to 
grow a dwarf variety, thinking that the 
plants would offer much less resistance to the 
winds tlian one of the taller kinds, also that, 
l>eing dwarf, they would not ho so liable to 
sustain damage from frost, should the coming 
winter prove as severe as the last one was. 
My choice fell upon the above-named variety, 
seed of which was sown at two different 
periods, to secure a succession, and the plants 
were set out. under favourable conditions, 
with the result that they made excellent 
growth, but without becoming in the least 
rank and flabby. The plants composing the 
earliest- break range from 18 inches to t! feet 
in height, and are ns true and even as one 
could wish. The stems are now' studded from 
the base to the crown with medium-sized, hut 
exceptionally firm. Sprouts, and these of ex¬ 
cellent quality. Its hardiness has yet to be 
proved, hut. so far, 1 am exceedingly pleased 
with the variety, and agree with nil that lias 
been said and written in its favour as to its 
fertility and superior quality. It being of 
dwarf habit, and, as a consequence, requiring 
less space than the taller growing kinds, ren¬ 
ders it a suitable variety for cottagers and 
amateurs who have not. much room to spare 
for this much-appreciated vegetable. A late 
March sowing will yield plants which can be 
depended on to furnish Sprouts quite by the 
end of October.—A. W. 

Mushroom-house.— This should he in full 
work now. hut a bed space or two will be left 
for Rhubarb and Seakale later on. Mush¬ 
room-beds made up now usually do well. If 
there is any trouble with insects, it may be 
taken as a sign that the necessary cleansing 
work was not done when the house was 
empty in summer. Every hit of litter should 
have been cleared out, and the walls lime 
w ashed before a bed was made. 

The Jerusalem Artichoke in bloom. En 
closed please find some blossoms of tlie Jerusalem 
Artichoke (H ilia nth us tuberosus), which 1 picked in 
my garden to-day. The flowers are fully develojied. 
more so than I have ever seen them before. It i» 
due. I presume, to the mild weather: though we have 
had no heat since September. Dahlias are still in 
blossom. Theodore .Martin, Bristol, October 30th, 
1907. ___ 


•• The English Flower Garden and Home 
rounds.”— iN’efo Edition, 10th , revised, mth aesenp- 
on* of all the best plants, trees, and shriibs, their 
dture ami arrangement, illustrated on wood. Cloth, 
tedium 8vo, 15s .; post free, 15s. 6d. 

“The English Flower Garden” may also bo 
ad finely bound in S vols., half vellum, SU nett. Of 
ll booksellers. 


OF ILLINO 


November 9, 1907 


G. 1 EVENING ILLUSTEALED. 


4S3 




TREES AND SHRUBS. 

ABELIAS. 

The Abelias form a 6inall group of some five 
or six kinds, all mountain plants, and native 


A. spathulata.— An elegant plant not long 
introduced to gardens from Japan, where it is 
an evergreen shrub flowering in April. It 
bears white flowers, marked with yellow' in the 
tube, coming in pairs from every joint, and 
about an inch long. The leaves are rather 


Abelia triflora. From a photograph in a Surrey garden. 


of the hills of China and Japan, the uplands 
of India, and the mountain ridges of Mexico. 
Few of them are hardy in all parts of our 
country, though those that may be grown in 
the open air are beautiful and uncommon. In 
mild districts, with light soil, in sheltered 
corners on warm walls, they thrive in 
favoured parts. They do best and are 
hardiest in light, warm soils, enriched with 
peat or leaf mould, and in well drained spots. 
Their pretty flowers are charming in droop¬ 
ing clusters, lasting long, and the good effect 
is continued after their fall by the coloured 
6epals, which retain their beauty far into the 
autumn. They may be increased by layers 
in spring, or by cuttings under a liandlight 
during summer. Two Chinese forms known 
as rupestris and uniflora are not considered 
distinct at Kew, and are therefore united 
under the name of A. chinensis. The follow¬ 
ing kinds are in cultivation : — 

A. CHINENSI8.— This is a pretty and distinct 
shrub, usually of dense growth, reaching a 
height of 3 feet to 3 feet. It is the hardiest 
kind grown, and to do well needs a warm, 
light soil and a sheltered spot. The flowers, 
each about an inch long, are carried in 
clusters, and are of a pale-blush colour, 
fragrant, and lasting for several weeks in early 
autumn. Even after the flowers drop the 
reddish 6epals are still ornamental amongst 
the few late border flowers. There is a 
variety of garden origin having larger and 
more numerous flowers, and greater vigour 
and hardiness. 

A. FLORIBUNDA.— This l>enutiful shrub is 
the finest of the group, but, save in mild 
parts, must be grown under glass ; even in 
the south it is best as a wall shrub, when its 
evergreen leaves and drooping flowers are well 
seen. The flowers, coming in March and 
April as drooping clusters from every joint, 
are of a bright rose or rosy purple, each about 
2 inches long, and bang Tor many weeks upon 
the plant. It does best in light soil, and when 
grown in pots should be kept rather confined 
at the root. It is found in the mountains of 
Mexico, up to a height of 10,000 feet. 

A. serrata. —This species is found as a low 
evergreen bush upon dry and sunny hillsides 
in China and Japan. It is smaller in all its 
parts than the other Chinese species, growing 
little more than 3 feet high, with solitary 
pale-red flowers, which are large and sweet, 
appearing in March. 


long, finely toothed, with a pale-purplisli 
edging. 

A. TRIFLORA. -This pretty shrub here 
figured is less hardy than the Chinese forms, 
ueeding the shelter of a wall. Being of robust 
growth, it soon makes a fine object, of good 


CORNUS MACROPHVLLA (SYN. C. 
BRACHYPODA). 

Not the least interesting feature of the vari¬ 
ous species of Cornus, or Dogwoods, is the 
vast difference that exists between them in 
stature, the Himalayan Cornus capi¬ 
tals, better known in this country as 
Benthamia fragifera, being quite a 
tree, while Cornus canadensis is a her¬ 
baceous plant but a few inches high. 
Another notable difference between the 
species is that whereas in Cornus capi- 
tata just mentioned, in Cornus florida, 
and some others, the flowers, borne in 
a small, but crowded, head, are in 
themselves insignificant, but are sur¬ 
rounded with four large petal like 
bracts, which give to each cluster the 
appearance of a large single bloom. 
Some of the species are without these 
bracts, and to this section belongs that 
here illustrated, C. maerophvlla, which 
is often known as C. brachypoda. 

It is a native of Japan, in which 
country, according to Professor Sar¬ 
gent, it is one of the most beautiful of 
the Cornels, and in size and habit the 
stateliest and most imposing member 
of the genus. In Japan, trees 50 feet 
or 60 feet in height, with stout, well- 
developed trunks, more than a foot in 
diameter, are not uncommon, and when 
such specimens rise above the thick 
undergrowth of shrubs, which in the 
mountain regions of central Japan often 
cover the steep slopes which descend to 
the streams, they are splendid objects, 
their long branches standing at right 
angles with the stems, and forming 
distinct flat tiers of foliage, for the 
leaves, like those of the American Cor¬ 
nus alternifolia, are crowded at the 
ends of the short lateral branchlets which 
grow nearly upright on the older branches, 
so that in looking down on one of 
these trees, only the upper surface of the 
leaves is seen. These are 5 inches to 8 inches 
long, and 3 inches to 4 inches wide, dark 


Flowering: shoots of Cornus macropliylla (syn. C. brachypoda). 


Google 


habit, and branching freely. The flowers, 
coming in threes at the end of summer, are 
cream or pale-yellow flushed with pink, their 
beauty enhanced by the rosy colour of the un¬ 
opened buds. Grown in pots or tubs it forms 
a fine plant for the greenhouse where it can¬ 
not be grown in the open. 


green on the upper surface, but very pale, 
and sometimes nearly white underneath. The 
flowers and fruit resemble those of Cornus 
alternifolia, although they are produced in 
wider and more open-branched clusters ; and, 
like those of this American species, they are 
borne on the ends of the lateral branchlets, 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 


JRBANA-CHAMPAIGN 











484 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


November 9, 1907 


and, rising above the foliage, stand out from 
the background of green. Cornua macro- 
phylla is very common in the mountainous 
regions of Hondo. In many parts of the 
British Isles it does well, and, when in full 
flower, the flattened clusters of blooms some¬ 
what suggest those of the Elder. X. 

NOTES AND BE PLIES. 

Cutting back Laurels, etc.—Wlmt is the best 
time of year to trim and cut back Laurels, Laurcs- 
tinus, Portuguese Laurel, and Box, in hedges and 
shrubberies? They grow very luxuriantly here and 
make a lot of new wood. — G. 

[It is always best to cut Laurels during the 
spring—say, in March or April. The shoots 
made following the cutting get hard before 
the winter, otherwise a spell of hard frost is 
apt to injure them in a cold, damp autumn 
following rank summer growth. The Lau- 
restinus is best cut down in April or May, 
much depending on the season. On the 
growth that is made after the cutting down 
will depend the flowering next year. If the 
plants are old, then it is advisable to mulch 
them, and if the weather is dry water freely 
to encourage growth.] 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

KEEPING THE FLOWERS. 

The present weather is much against the 
blooms remaining fresh, especially if they 
arc large. They keep badly if the plants have 
been highly fed with strong stimulants so os 
to injure the roots. Beginners in exhibiting 
often lose many blooms through a want of 
knowledge of how to keep them when they 
are developed. Sonic persons cut them too 
soon, while others do not cut them soon 
enough, allowing them to remain on the 
plants several days nfter all the florets have 
lieeti fully developed, and often enough after 
it can be seen that the blooms are losing 
their freshness. Some sorts assume a pink 
shade of colour on the outside of the lower 
petals as a sign of decay, while others show 
their want of freshness by the soft feel of the 
lower petals, a gradual contraction of their 
size, and a dingy colour in both cases. These 
instances will suffice to explain what are the 
first symptoms of decay. To cut blooms after 
they arrive at the stage indicated with the 
idea of preserving them fresh is a mistaken 
notion. Timing the blooms is an important 
phase in the culture of this flower, and should 
l>e done by regulating the plants in different 
temperatures, according to the time required 
for the expansion of the flowers. To have 
blooms in the best possible condition on any 
given date four days previous are quite soon 
enough to cut them. If cut earlier, the florets 
lose their natural solidity, thus causing the 
blooms to be smaller than they would he if 
the florets stood out fresh. Particularly 
noticeable is this in plants of the Japanese 
section, where the florets do not possess that 
amount of crispness which characterises those 
of the incurved class. If the blooms are cut 
too early, the colours fade, which is a serious 
loss to a stand, as rich colouring is con¬ 
sidered of the highest importance. When the 
blooms are thoroughly developed, having the 
centre petals well incurved, then is the right 
moment to cut them, which is best done with 
a long stem—say, 12 inches—so that a small 
portion can be taken off each day. Place the 
stem in a bottle previously filled with water, 
to which is added a little salt—saw three- 
quarters of a teaspoonful to three half pints 
of soft water. The flowers should be placed 
in a cool, slightly darkened room having a 
dry atmosphere. When it is seen that the 
blooms are likely to be fully one week too 
early, place the plants in the coolest part of 
the house, shading them from bright sun 
until they are fully expanded; then it is 
best to remove the plants to a partly dark¬ 
ened cool structure, having, if possible, a 
northern aspect, and where air can be freely 
admitted—a potting shed, a Mushroom-house 
not in use, n large open barn, a coach-house— 
in fact, any place where the necessary require¬ 
ments—viz., coolness, dryness, and partially 
excluded light are pThe aoU in the 

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pots should l^e kept nearly dry, giving only as 
much water as will prevent the leaves flag¬ 
ging, as when the blooms arc fully developed 
the functions of the plants are torpid. Upon 
the least signs of decay in any of the petals 
such parts should be removed^ as they affect 
others. Any surplus water standing on the 
floor should l>e removed, as it will only tend 
to raise atmospheric moisture, which is best 
avoided. 


NEW CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

During the present season a large number 
of new ami choice Chrysanthemums has been 
seen, and the selection is not confined to one 
type. At the meeting of the flpral committee 
of the National Chrysanthemum Society, on 
Monday, October 28th last, there were no 
less than seventv-two new varieties exhibited, 
and, in many instances, the new kinds showed 
a high state of excellence. The Japanese 
varieties were particularly fine, those of exhi¬ 
bition quality being largely in evidence. 

Mrs. G. F. Coster.—A n immense Jap¬ 
anese reflexed bloom, having long, broad 
florets. The colour may be described as 
amber, shaded bronze—a shade of colour 
that will look well under artificial light. 
This is a variety of English origin, having 
been raised by Mr. Martin Silsbury, Shank 
lin, Isle of Wight. A first-iljss certificate 
was given to this by the National Chrysan¬ 
themum Society. An award of mcjit was 
also given to it by the floral committee of the 
R.H.8. on October 29th. Another flower, j 
not nearly so large, but equally pretty, is a 
Japanese reflexod, named 

Wallace Godfrey. —This I lie committee : 
commended for its colour, which may he de¬ 
scribed as rich golden-amber, tinted rose in 
the centre. We would like to see more 
flowers of such distinct and pleasing tones of 
colour. A very dense and full flower is a 
new variety, 

Lady Smith of Treleske. — A primrose- 
coloured sport, with light reverse to the 
broad florets, from the well-known white 
variety, Mine. Marguerite de Mons. It is an 
exceptionally deeply built flower, and should 
prove an acquisition to exhibitors at the 
early November shows. This flower also re¬ 
ceived a first-class certificate. A dieplv- 
built Japanese incurved flower, named 

Miss Faith Moore, having rather narrow 
florets, and building up a true Japanese in¬ 
curved bloom, was also given n F.C.C. This 
is a pure white flower of pleasing form, and 
is a welcome addition to this section. Very 
handsome indeed were the flowers of 

F. W. Lever. —This flower has very long, 
broad florets, which are slightly indented, 
curled, and slightly incurving at the ends, 
building up » very handsome flower of great 
breadtli and interesting form. The colour is 
rich creamy-white, with a richer cream 
centre. The finish of this flower was particu¬ 
larly beautiful, and it should prove a distinct 
acquisition to the exhibitor. This variety 
well merited the first-class certificate awarded 
to it, an award of merit being also given to 
it by the R.H.S. floral committee on October 
29th. A variety that received commendation 
was named 

Mechet Beauty. —This was quite a dis 
tinct form of flower, being beautifully re¬ 
flexed, and built up of long, broad petals of 
good substance. The colour may be described 
as rich yellow', freely suffused and tinted rosy- 
red. 

Mrs. J. May is creamy-white, with richer 
creamy centre. It is a sport from the mauve- 
pink Miss Olive Miller. 

Amarantha is a broad-petalled flower of a 
rosy-amaranth colour, with silvery reverse, 
and, if only a little more depth could be ob¬ 
tained in the bloom, there is no doubt it will 
prove a distinct gain to the type. 

Clara Vbrnum is an exceptionally fine 
Japanese reflexed decorative variety, and, as 
such, was certificated. The colour is a deep, 
rich crimson self, and the flowers aie of good 
size and very full. This was given an award 
of merit bv the floral committee of the 
R.H.S. on October 29th. A beautiful new 
incurved flower, named 
■ Clara Wells, reminds us of the colour ns 
seen in the once-popular Mrs. Coleman, the 
blooms in this case being larger ap4 deeper. 


The colour is a buff yellow on the lower part 
of the flower, the yellow colour being more 
pronounced at its apex. The florets are of 
medium width and good length. The com¬ 
mittee awarded a first-class certificate to this 
fine novelty, an award of merit also being 
given by the R.H.S. floraL committee on the 
29th. Another incurved sort, named 

Melba, also merits attention. This re¬ 
minds us of the flowers of the old Prince 
Alfred, but in this case the petals have more 
finish and substance, and the colour, a tone 
of deep mauve, is somewhat better. 

The single-flowered sorts were particularly 
attractive, embracing several types of these 
free flowering Chrysanthemums. It is only 
possible to mention a few of the more pro¬ 
minent sorts. Especially good was 

Lillie Godfrey, a pale flesh-pink sort of 
medium size, developing its blossoms in 
beautiful sprays, so useful for cutting. 

Mrs. Chamberlain is an excellent pale 
blush-pink flower of splendid form, rather 
larger than the last-mentioned variety, the 
florets being of medium width, and well dis¬ 
posed round a high disc. It does not appear 
to be quite so free-flowering as the last- 
mentioned sort. 

Ex mouth Yellow is a very pretty shade 
of bright yellow, the flowers rather larger 
than usual, and their form exquisite. The 
foregoing three single-flowered sorts each re¬ 
ceived a first-class certificate. Other good 
varieties among the singles were Mrs. Ken no¬ 
way, Godfrey’s Gem, a pretty little crimson 
sort, Know Storm, Countess Fortescue, and 
Lady Coleridge. 

Those who a year or two since said that 
the interest in Chrysanthemums was on the 
wane, will have to alter their opinion, as the 
enthusiasm of growers is quite equal to that 
of years gone by, and this interest will be 
maintained so long as new varieties of ster¬ 
ling worth are being raised. E. G. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Chrysanthemum H. J. Jones, 1908. It is 
early for novelties in Chrysanthemums, but 
one, at least, of exceptional merit has ap¬ 
peared in this variety, 1908 being added to 
distinguish it from the II. J. Jones in com¬ 
merce, but practically lost to cultivation. 
The colour of the new one is of the deepest 
possible yellow, and the shape incurved. It 
very much resembles that grand flower. 
Duchess of Sutherland, but broader at top, 
which adds to its massive look. The im¬ 
provement, however, is in the habit of the 
plant. Duchess of Sutherland is a tall-grow¬ 
ing one, and not at all easy to manage. The 
latest comer is dwarf in habit- and an easy 
doer. This may be safely noted as a new 
sort all lovers of the flower must have. It 
has already been awarded two certificates of 
merit. —S. 

Chrysanthemum Esme Reed.— A Swan ley 
firm of market growers recently exhibited a 
few plants of a white sport from the pink 
Mrs. Wingfield, and this should prove to be 
an undoubted acquisition. The white blos¬ 
soms have a creamy centre, which adds to 
their attractiveness. The special worth of 
the sport, however, lies in its value as a pot 
plant. The plants appear to thrive in quite 
small pots, and-as such are very useful for 
windows and window-boxes, for which there 
is always a keen demand. A first-class certi¬ 
ficate by the National Chrysanthemum 
Society and the award of merit of the R.H.S. 
were given to this new variety, which is to 
bo distributed under the name of Esnie Reed, 
as a market pot plant. This is very signifi¬ 
cant, ae we cannot remember a similar award 
ever having been made before.—E. G. 

Chrysanthemum early-flowering Pompon 
Pilberta.—This is a very old early-flowering Pom¬ 
pon, which has lost none of its charms with age. I 
have grown the variety for almost twenty years, and 
>till value it. Like many other varieties, it is 
flowering much later than usual this season, and at 
the time of writing (October 29th) the plants are at 
their best. It is a bright canary-yellow coloured 
flower, of small to medium size, and when well grown 
is of pleasing form. The plant is branching, and 
when grown naturally, without disbudding, it is pos- 
sible to cut. charming sprays of blossom. For associat¬ 
ing with the many bronze and orange-coloured 
flowers of the Japanese kinds, these Pompons arp In¬ 
valuable. ae they give a delightful effect when ar. 
ranged In vases or made up into bunches. This plant 
is about 2 feet In height, and usually cpmc* lotq 
flower In early October -C. 

UNivcKSTTY Or ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


Ulull 


November 9 , 1907 


GARDENING ILL USTRA TED. 


485 



ROSES. 

SOME RECENT OR UNCOMMON 
MONTHLY ROSES. 

The majority of what we term “Monthly,” 
“Chinese,” or “Bengal” Rows today would 
have been designated Tea-scented some years 
ago. Few, if any, of the modern sorts can 
compare with the old Common Blush China 
for sturdiness. Yet, in many of these modern 
varieties we see the influence of the cross- 
fertilisation which raisers have effected be¬ 
tween the Tea Roses and certain of the 
Monthlies, so that if they approach the Teas 
very closely, they have some very marked 
characteristics. The beautiful variety illus¬ 
trated below -nanielv. Baronne Piston de St. 
Cyr—is one of the loveliest of the whole 
group. An illustration, whilst depicting its 
natural grace and form, cannot give one any 


; tween Alfred Colomb and Crnmoisi-Su- 
perieur, and is of a marvellous fiery-red 
colour. 

Comtesse de Cayla lias quite captivated 
those who have grown it. The coppery- 
carmine-yellow and orange-shaded blossoms 
are beautiful. It grows very freely; quite 
strong enough to make a 4-feet hedge. 

Jean Bach Sisley has been rightly de¬ 
scribed as an improved Common Blush. The 
flowers are large and of a very refined char- 
| acter, colour silvery-rose, outer petals salmon- 
, rose. 

Louis Chabrier is a delicate pink flower 
of great beauty. It may become a favourite, 
although it may have to make way for newer 
I and better sorts before it is much known. 

Petrus Douzel has rather disappointed 
me. I thought we were going to get a dwarf 
growing Gruss an Teplitz. We sadly need 


Rose Baronne Piston de St. Cyr. From a photograph in Messrs. W. Paul and Son's nursery at Waltham Cross, X. 


idea of the delicate colouring found in this 
Rose—a pale flesh-pink with a pale, almost 1 
white, suffusion. The trusses of blossom are 
borne so erectly and are of such exquisite 
form as to compel admiration by all who love 
these garden Roses. This Rose has none of 
the defects that rather mar such as Mine. 
Eugene Resal of drooping its blossoms after 
wet, the formation of the flower aiding it to 
resist rain considerably. It was introduced 
by Mon8. Dubrieuil in 1902. A very attractive 
6ort is 

Alice Hamilton, of a brilliant velvety- 
crimson colour, flowers a good size, with fine : 
long buds. 

Arethusa is the first yellow China. It is 
charming, especially when the yellow flowers 
are tinted with apricot. It makes a fine com¬ 
panion to Queen Mab. 

Charlotte Klemm is one of last year’s 
novelties, and will be much heard of when 
better known. It is the result of a cross be- 


Digitize! 


Google 


one of tliis glorious colour, minus the over- 
luxuriance of growth. In Petrus Douzel we 
have a flower sometimes good and frequently 
very bad, and when in this latter condition 
not worth growing. 

Unermudliche is a Rose I much like, al¬ 
though hating the name. It is truly per- 
jK'tual and wondrously free, the colour a pur¬ 
plish-rose, with white centre. It is a very 
attractive flower, and comes in huge clusters. 
I think we might certainly claim 

Betty Berkeley to be a member of this 
group rather than among the Teas. It is of 
a fine deep red, shaded crimson-scarlet, very 
free and effective in both growth and 
flowering. 

No one who has not tried these China Roses 
upon standards can have nny idea of their 
beauty, and they are continually in flower. 
They are also beautiful, especially some of 
the crimson sorts, under glass. 

W. X. 


ROSE NOTES. 

Planting Roses.— Numbers of readers will 
be planting Roses during the next few weeks, 
and a few general hints may be useful. It is 
useless to expect a Rose-plant to succeed if 
just a spadeful of soil be taken out where 
there is a gap and another plant inserted in 
the vacant spot. If filling up vacant places 
must be done, the soil should at least be dug 
out 2 feet deep and about 1 foot in width. 
Half this soil may be returned with a shovel¬ 
ful or two of well-decayed manure added, 
and the other half used to place among the 
roots of the new plant without adding any 
manure. Where a border or bed of Roses is to 
l>e planted, the old plants, if any, should be 
lifted and heeled in in the shade, and all the 
foliage cut off. This bed or border should 
then be trenched. As a rule, bastard trench¬ 
ing is sufficient. Having prepared the soil, 
it is well to allow it to settle 
down for a week or two, and 
then choose the first dry day 
to plant. In the meantime, 
secure your plants, as it is 
not reasonable to expect a 
nurseryman at this busy sea¬ 
son to send your order off the 
next day after it is received. 
Having obtained the plants, 
cut off all foliage and shorten 
all growths back to 2 feet, 
unless they he on climbing 
6orts. Trim over the jagged 
ends of roots, tlfen heel the 
plants into the soil until such 
time as is convenient to 
plant. If they lie thus two 
or three weeks they will take 
no harm, and it would be bet¬ 
ter they should do so rather 
than plant when ground is 
wet and sticky. A mixture 
of about equal parts potting- 
soil, leaf-soil, and burnt gar¬ 
den refuse, or wood-ashes, 
together with an equal part 
of well-rottecl manure, about 
a year old, should be put 
round the roots when plant¬ 
ing. See that the roots are 
not too deep. The roots of 
standards should be about 
6 inches beneath the surface, 
and those of bushes an inch 
below where budded. Give 
each plant about a half-peck 
of the compost mentioned 
among its roots, and tread 
the soil firmly, but leave the 
surface loose. Do not cramp 
the roots at all ; see that they 
have free play—rather in¬ 
clined to spread horizontally 
than to point downwards. 
When planting standards or 
pillar Roses, open the hole 
first, then put in the stake 
before planting the tree. The 
Rose is then tied to the stake, 
so that the roots are at the 
pro]x»r depth, then soil is 
filled in afterwards. About a 
fortnight after planting go 
over nil and tread the soil 
about the roots on a dry day ; then level .the 
surface and cover with well-rotted manure— 
something that will be light. If the weather 
be dry when planting, it is advisable to dip 
I the roots in some thickish mud, made by 
stirring soil into a bucket of water. 

As to distance apart. Standards may be 
from 3 feet to 6 feet apart, and bushes from 
I 18 inches to 30 inches, according to the naturo 
of the planting. If an effective bed of colour 
! is wanted, 18 inches is none too close for 
I bushes; indeed, with 6ome sorts I would 
' plant 15 inches apart and prune hard. The 
Rambler Roses must be given ample 6poce. 
If room is plentiful, 6 feet apart is none too 
1 much, and the Wichuraiana Roses should 
j have quite 10 feet apart each way, if they 
! are to run on mounds or on roots or blocks 
I of stone. For hedges strong-growing Roses 
may be planted a yard apart, unless it is de- 
I sired to obtain a tall hedge quickly; in this 
I case 2 feet apart woMd be the best. Some 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




486 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


November 9 , 1907 


opportunity should be taken to plant various 
Ramblers as free bushes, giving them heaps of 
room. What a glorious sight a plant of 
Aglaia is thus planted ! Nearly all the 
Ramblers are amenable to the same treatment. 
That lovely single Rose sinica Anemone, 
would look most beautiful planted against a 
cart load of old tree-stumps and allowed to 
clamber over same. In this case I should 
plant three or four plants around such a 
heap to obtain a good effect quickly. In 
planting banks with Wichuraiana Roses, if 
on Grass I always advise raising the growths 
on hoops or blocks of some sort for a time, 
or else the Grass will be troublesome for the 
first year or two. Where banks are not too 
steep, some plants should be planted at base, 
and others half-way up the bank ; or if pre¬ 
ferred, plant all half-way up the bank, and 
train growths both upward and downward. 
They will quickly cover it. The replanting 
of old Roses should be carried out now. In 
their case, remove all foliage and some of the 
old growths, then replant as quickly as pos¬ 
sible. Many an old, decrepit standard has 
been given a fresh lease of life by this re¬ 
planting. Such trees need a liberal amount 
of the compost around their roots, and it 
should be well worked in among the fibres. 
In like manner, if one possesses some old pot- 
plants that are, apparently, worn out. I would 
recommend planting such in a good border, 
first of all gently rubbing over the ball of 
earth to release the roots a bit. and soaking 
the lmll thoroughly beforehand. Such plants 
often make brave show the next summer, 
especially if of the Tea or Hybrid Tea section. 

Rooted cuttings inserted last season 
about this time would be all the better left 
where they are until spring. Tf planted out 
when the sun begins to gain power, and the 
land to be warmed, such plants are more 
likely to do well. 

Stocks for budding can be planted now 
—that is, those from the hedgerows that are 
intended for standards or half-standards— 
and the present is a good opportunity of ob¬ 
taining some extra tall Briers, with' a view 
to budding on to them the lovely Wichuraiana 
Roses next summer. Dwarf stocks for bud 
ding should not bo planted until February 
and March. Rosa. 

NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Rose Marechal Niel under glass —I should be 
much obliged if you would give me a few hints on , 
growing the .Marechal Kiri Rose under glass? My 
plant budded last year, has u shoot nearly 5 feet in 
length. Should it he cut back at all. as I am think¬ 
ing of growing it in a bed under the bench? The 
bench is 4 feet high. What distance from the glass 
.should it be trained? What is the best, wire to train 
it to. as 1 find galvanised wire hurmful to Roses?— 
A. W. J. 

[We gather from your letter that you have 
not yet planted your Rose under glass. We 
should strongly advise you not to plant under 
the bench, as this is always a very unsatis¬ 
factory position for a Rose. In the first 
place, the bench excludes light, which the 
plant needs, and also it receives all the drip 
from the staging when other plants are grown 
thereon. The best success is obtained from 
Marechal Niel planted out under glass when 
a good border is made for the plant, so that 
the sun may shine on the border. If the 
house were entirely devoid of a staging, you 
could grow this Rose far more successfully. 
Should this be impossible, then we would ad¬ 
vise you to obtain a large tub and place on 
the staging, into which you could plant the 
Rose. You must provide ample drainage in 
the tub—say, some 3 inches to 4 inches deep 
—and then fill up with good compost, such 
as two parts loam, one part well-rotted 
manure, and a 6 inch potful of bone-meal to 
each barrowful of soil. The growths are 
usually kept about 1 foot from the glass. 
Do not prune the plant at all, excepting to 
remove any dead growths that may follow, if 
your plant is from the open ground, and not 
pot-grown. The wire employed for the pur¬ 
pose is usually galvanised, and may be 
painted first ; then it can have no ill effects 
upon the Rose. Do not cut the plant back, 
excepting a few inches from the extreme ends. 
Try and encourage growth during the next 
two vears, and by that time you should have 
a nice quantity of ripened wood, 

Digitizes by GO*. »glC 


which would yield you a lot of blossom. If 
you find the growths die back at all—which 
is not unlikely, should they be unripened— 
then cut back to the sound w'ood, and you 
will obtain plenty of new growth from the 
base when the plant’s roots have laid well 
hold of the soil. When growth commences, 
supply plenty of heat, and use the syringe 
freely oil fine mornings. This wiil en¬ 
courage, a robust growth, which is all-import 
ant with this grand old Rose.] 


INDOOR PLANTS. 


TREATMENT OF BULBS. 

I suoild be milch obliged if you would kindly give 
me descriptive and cultural notes of the following 
bulbs I have had sent ine? The only accommodation 
I can give them is a vinery, heated with old-fashioned 
flues. I am just able to keep out frost in winter: 
Heemanthus Katherine, H. natalensis, and H. albi- 
flos, Gloriosa vircscens. Cyrthantlius sanguineus, C. 
lutescens, Ifafa Lily (white), and Anoiganthus brevi- 
florus.—A lmqndsbuky. 

[Hasmanthus. —The genus Hoemanthus is 
an extensive one, all the members of which 
occur in the southern half of Africa, some of 
them which are natives of Cape Colony suc¬ 
ceeding with greenhouse treatment ; but for 
those from the Congo district a stove is neces¬ 
sary for their successful culture. Some of 
the species are difficult to grow, while, on the 
other hand, many of them readily conform to 
ordinary treatment. One of the most amen¬ 
able to cultivation is II. Kathcrimc, which 
will thrive either in a greenhouse or under 
warmer conditions. The soil best suited for 
this Hoemanthus is two-thirds good yellow' 
loam to one-third well-decayed manure, or, 
failing this, leaf-mould, with a liberal sprink¬ 
ling of silver-sand. Repotting, if necessary, 
should be done as soon after flowering as 
possible, but it resents disturbance at the 
roots more than is absolutely necessary, and, 
provided the drainage is good and the roots 
healthy, it. may be kept in health for several 
years without repotting, but should be 
assisted during the growing season with an 
occasional dose of weak liquid-manure. After 
flowering encourage the plant to make healthy 
growth bv giving it a good position in the 
greenhouse and keeping it properly watered, 
then, as autumn comes on, less water will be 
needed. During the latter part of the summer 
it. should be well inured to sunshine in order 
to thoroughly ripen the bulb. Throughout 
the winter scarcely any water will be needed, 
but with the return of spring the supply must 
be increased. Then the leaves and flower- 
spike will in time develop. In winter the 
temperature of the structure in which it is 
kept should be allowed to fall but little, if at 
all, below 50 degs., though if the soil is very 
dry 45 degs. may not cause any ill effects. 
Other reliable species that may be grown in 
a greenhouse are the Blood-flower (Heeman¬ 
thus coccineus), with bright red flowers 
usually at their best in August, and H. albi- 
flos, in which the blossoms are white. II. 
natalensis is’one of the most easily accommo¬ 
dated. The peduncle is produced at the same 
time as the leaves, and bears a very dense 
umbel of hundreds of flowers, with pale 
orange-coloured stamens and styles. During 
the resting period any dry place from which 
frost can be excluded will do for the bulbs, 
and in summer an airy greenhouse, where 
the pots can be plunged into some moisture- 
retaining material, will suit the plants. The 
bulbs require well-enriched leaf-soil, and 
this must not be made too firm. 

Gloriosa. —The secret of success in the 
cultivation of Gloriosas is to keep them dry 
in a temperate house (on a raised shelf near 
the glass for preference) from the time they 
die down until growth begins again in late 
winter or spring. During this resting season 
it is best to leave them in their pots, for the 
long, fleshy tubers grow and ripen after the 
leaves have decayed. In spring they should 
be turned out and repotted, singly or several 
together, into rather small pots and put in a 
warm greenhouse to grow. When active 
growth has commenced they should be shifted 
into the large pots in which they are to flower, 
the one shift being sufficient. Gloriosas grow 
well in good sandy, fibrous soil, either peat or 
loam, or a mixture of both, and the pots should 


be well drained. After its final potting the 
plant should be placed where it is to flower, 
and some support by sticks or strings given to 
its slender growth. All the species grow well 
in a warm greenhouse, though the forms of 
Gloriosa vircscens from the temperate parts 
of Africa will succeed in an ordinary green¬ 
house or conservatory. Gloriosa suporba and 
most of the other species thrive best in a 
stove-house. They are very easy plants to 
grow, and their loss is almost always due to 
keeping them watered and standing among 
other plants after they have died down and 
should be resting. Gloriosas seed freely, the 
seed being left to get well ripened upon the 
plants and then sown at once. Gloriosas, like 
most other garden plants of rapid growth, are 
benefited by occasional watering with very 
weak liquid-manure, made by soaking dried 
cow-dung in water with a little soot. Rain¬ 
water, with a little of this manure added, is 
good and safe for any garden plant during 
active growth, but it should be discontinued 
as soon as the flowering season has passed. 

Cyrtanthub. —The Crytanthi usually flower 
during the months of February and March, 
and again, as a rule, in July and August. 
The bulbs are about the size of a large Snow¬ 
drop, and bear three or four Grass-liko 
leaves, while the flower-stem, which reaches a 
height of a foot or so, is terminated by an 
umbel of partially drooping tubular blossoms 
nearly a couple of inches long, orange-red in 
the case of angustifolius, and in McKern 
white. They are of very easy culture, need¬ 
ing a soil composed principally of good loam, 
lightened by an admixture of leaf-mould and 
sand. They increase quickly from offsets, so 
that the pots will soon become full of bulbs. 
While they will flower well for years, even in 
a crowded state, they may readily be divided 
if it is desired to increase the stock. This 
should be done immediately after the flower¬ 
ing in early spring. Given the treatment ac¬ 
corded to a Pelargonium, these species of 
Cvrtanthus will do welL They do not re¬ 
quire to be dried off at any time, but in win¬ 
ter, when in a partially dormant condition, 
only sufficient water should be given to keep 
the soil slightly moist. Seeds are readily 
produced, and young plants raised therefrom 
will, unlike most bulbs, reach a flowering size 
in about eighteen months. 

Anotganthus. — This belongs to the 
Amaryllis family, from three to six leaves 
being produced from each bulb, and from 
1 foot to II feet long. The flower-scape is 
from G inches to a foot in length, and gener¬ 
ally bears from six to twelve flowers in a 
loose umbel at the top. It, may be grown 
planted out in an unheated frame, and also 
in pots as a greenhouse plant, under both of 
which conditions it will grow- and flower 
freely. The soil in which it has been grown 
has often been frozen hard, but, considering 
our long, damp winters, it is not likely that it 
will succeed even in the most sheltered posi 
tions as a permanent outdoor plant without 
some protection—if not from cold, at least, 
from wet. It may be grown in a mixture of 
loam, peat (one-third), and sand. Water 
must be supplied in abundance when making 
its growth, but after flowering and during the 
time it is without leaves it should be kept 
dry. Those who only have unheated houses 
may easily grow' this. We do not, know’ the 
plant you call Ifafa Lily.] 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Begonia Rex in the winter. I have thirty to 
forty small Begonia Rex in different varieties that I 
have struck by pegging down leaves in pots. They 
are from 1 inch to 4 inches in height. I mn anxious 
to keep them well till next year. Must they he 
watered through the winter? I have not, begun fires 
yet, hut, keep above 4fi degs. in winter. Some of the 
leaves have five or six plants 2 inches to S inches 
high. Should I divide them and plant in separate 
l»ots now. or leave doing so till the spring.?— Fern- 
LOVF.R. 

[The Begonias of the Rex section do not die 
down in the winter. They ought to during 
that season be kept in a warm greenhouse, 
and receive very little water at the roots. The 
outer large leaves die off. You should leave 
them as they are until the spring, giving 
them n higher temperature when you divide 
them. When growing freely, an interraedifftfl 
temuefature (a the bfifiLior them,] 

UrJlVtRbiTY Ur ILLIIMOI5 AT 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



November 9, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


487 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 

VARYING THE SURFACE OF BEDS. 
Pursuing our recent theme, as regards the 
teiraces picturesquely planted, we now come 
to individual beds of flowers, which are often 
so flat and lifeless, and so "hard.” Here the 
advantage of breaking up the surface of the 
individual bed is seen. The one here figured 
is rather a large bed, which, many years ago. 
was planted with Hose Anna Olivier, which 
has clone very well indeed, considering it has 
been there not less than fifteen years. Some 
years ago some bulbs of Henry’s Lily wore 
put into the same bed as a free group, which 
have also done very well. There may also be 
soon in the bed a plant of a curious perennial 
Foxglove in flower, although the photograph 
is taken late in the summer. It is a perennial 
variety from Spain, which is very like our 
own F'oxglove, except that it branches a great 
deal more, and flowers on and on until very 


| seen that clumps are neglected, and they 
choke themselves by reason of many puny 
shoots being left. Delphiniums are gross 
feeders, and therefore, in removing them, 
the ground should be improved by the addi¬ 
tion of manure and space left around each 
clump, clear of any other plants, in which 
they may grow untrammelled.— Woodbast 
wick. 

NEW DAHLIAS. 

The season of 1907 has not been so prolific in 
new varieties as some former years ; at least, 
the number of certificates awarded by the 
loading societies falls somewhat short. One 
cannot, perhaps, grumble at this, because the 
standard is being continually made higher, 

I and raisers find improvements more and more 
difficult to obtain. The Cactus kinds quite 
, overshadow all other forms, and the popu¬ 
larity of this type is great. Narrow florets, 
good full centres, and graceful forms are in¬ 
sisted upon. It is useless to expect a coarse- 


Ivernia, a very large, incurving-shaped 
flower, of a light buff colour. 

Lydia, mauve-pink, lighter centre, full and 
well formed. 

Mauve Queen, an incurving bloom of ex¬ 
cellent quality, mauve-pink throughout. 

Rev. A. Bridge, light yellow, edged and 
tipped pink, charming in shape, and of good 
size. 

Saturn, an incurving form, with narrow 
florets, white and rose-striped. 

Two first-class new r single Dahlias are 
Peggy, a blending of yellow, rose, and erim- 
Ron ; and Crimson Prince, rich colour. The 
Bride is a small, white-flowered Cactus, with 
short, stiff florets and a good stem, which 
should make it a valuable kind for cutting. 

____H. S. 

CACTUS DAHLIAS. 

Frost has not visited us to the extent of 
damaging a single leaf up to the present time 
(October 20th). This is unusual. At about 



Liliun Henryi in bed of Anna Olivier Rose. 


laie in summer and into autumn. Clematises 
on stakes in triangles also afford a very good 
way of breaking up the level hardness of beds, 
and are much used in the same place for the 
purpose. 


Delphiniums. — Amongst tall - growing 
plants in the herbaceous border, few there 
arc that merit the designation “imposing” 
more than do the Delphiniums, their spikes 
of hloom arresting the eye as soon as the 
garden is entered. Despite the fact that they 
take up a deal of room, they are beautiful 
subjects for a garden, and no place where 
hardy herbaceous flowers are grow’n to any 
extent can he regarded as complete without 
them. One of the common mistakes made 
with them is the omission by many w r ho grow 
them to divide the roots at the proper time, 
aad so, when summer comes round, the 
shoots are seen to be very numerous, and 
people do not like the idea of cutting away 
the weakest, and so givinj 
proper chance, 



looking flower to gain the above hall-mark of 
distinction. The following varieties each 
received a first-class certificate, and in some 
cases more aw ards : 

J Chas. II. Curtis is a scarlet-crimson, a 
large, narrow’-petalled, and much incurving 
form. 

1 Clara, light peach-pink, a nice shade, but 
! somewhat heavy flower. 

C. E. Wilkins, a charming flower, with 
narrow florets; colour, warm salmon-pink 
1 shade. 

I Dorothy, rose-colour, incurving in form, 
but heavy-looking. 

Elsa Ellrich, a light and graceful flower, 
of a pearly-w'hite colour. 

Etruria, bronzy-orange shade, a large and 
handsome bloom. 

Flame, a most effective and well-shaped 
flower, of an orange-red shade. 

Helium, orange, with yellow contrc, nar¬ 
row florets. 

Harold Pebrman, brilliant yel}ow; a 

large, well-formed bloonp 


the same time in September is generally the 
date we feel most anxious about the plants. 
The flowers now are practically over, and as 
they began to open in July we cannot com¬ 
plain that the season has been a short one. 
The year has been most unfavourable in 
many respects, especially in the case of those 
whose land is heavy. The continual rains 
made the ground so cold that the Dahlias 
refused to make satisfactory progress. The 
blossoms, with me, have been abundant and 
good. I do not disbud to the extent many 
do, but allow each plant to perfect from a 
dozen to three dozen blooms at a time ; con¬ 
sequently they have been a blaze of colour. 
Of those varieties already in commerce the 
following would be placed in the order given 
—more especially from an exhibitor’s point of 
view. The list may, therefore, interest those 
who require really handsome blooms of the 
better types of Cactus Dahlias : — 

H. Shoksmith.— Crimson-scarlet, with very narrow 
florets. Dwarf grower, and exceptionally free. 

Wm. Marrhau..—B ronze and yellow. A very large 
flower, but the blooms are pendeut. 









488 


GA RDENING ILL USTE.1 TED. 


-November 9, 1907 


Mrs. II. Shoesmith.—P ure white. A large and 
handsome bloom on upright stem. 

Daisy Staples.—M auve-pink, narrow in floret, and 
very free. 

J. B. Riding.-O range and yellow. A handsome 
bloom, but late. 

Ruby Grinsted.—S airnon-pink. Fine form. 

White Lady.—V ery free flowering and good stem. 

Daisy Easton.—Y ellow. An improved Mrs. j. J. 
Crowe 

Hyacinth.—P ink and yellow, narrow florets, and 
pretty shape. 

H. W. Sillem.—L ight crimson; very showy. 

Victorian.—P ink, with rosy-red and crimson stripes. 

Nelson.—P urplish-crimson ; very free. 

Hamlet.—B right brick-red; large. 

Mrs. McMillan.—L ight pink; very free to bloom. 

Kathleen Bryant.-M aroon; the best of this 
colour. 

Fairy.—W hite, with exceptionally narrow florets. 

Flag op Trite.—A new white, of good form. 

Mrs. F. Grinsted.—K osy-purple ; large. 

T. A. Havemeyer.—R eddish-bronze; a very nice 
flower. 

Rainbow. —Pink ; good large bloom. 

Faints.—F awn colour. 

W. Hopkins.—D ark crimson. 

Mrs. g Stevenson.—B right jellow. 

Mrs. W. Hopkins. —Salmon-pink shade. 

H. S. 

NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Plants for marshy ground I have a Grilse 
plot at the end of a lawn leading to a walk of rather 
fine Rhododendrons. It is very wet, especially in 
winter. When the Rluxlodcndrons are over there is 
a great want of colour, and 1 have been advised to 
try clumps of Kniphofia, Pampas Grass, and Poly¬ 
gonum. but I fear they will not do in such wet land. 

I should feel much obliged if >ou could tell me if 
you think there is a lair chance in such a spot of 
their doing any good?—P. G. H. 

[There would not be much fear that both 
the Polygonum and the Pampas would do 
well in summer; but the winter, we fear, 
would injure the latter, unless there is the 
possibility of planting on a mound of soil, so 
that the root-stock is raised, for the most 
part. The same remark applies to the 
Kniphofia. You may, however, grow the her¬ 
baceous Phloxes to perfection in such a spot; 
likewise a few of the more distinct of the 
Michaelmas Daisies, particularly those of 
the Nova?-Anglim group, with cordifolius 
and the N’ovi Belgi set. Spirtea venusta 
would be very fine with its pink-coloured 
masses of flowers, and the newer hybrids of 
this are even more showy. If the Rhodo¬ 
dendrons thrive in the same place, such Lilies 
as Henrvi, pardalinum, and superbum (the two 
last in the nature of Swamp Lilies), would be 
quite at home. Any of the bright-coloured 
Phloxes could be selected, and among the best 
are Flambeau, Miss Pemberton. Etna. Wm. 
Robinson, Coquelicot, etc. If you have room 
near by, you might plant some of the fine¬ 
leaved Vines from Central China to clamber 
upon rustic poles or through trees. The leaf- 
colouring of these is very effective during the 
autumn months. The bulbous things, as 
Lilies, should be planted soon ; the others 
could be planted at the same time, or in 
spring.] 

A new Paeony. Ten years ago Miss 
Frances Geoghegan, of Glasnevin, Dublin, 
found in a rocky, almost inaccessible spot in 
the island of Majorca, a Paeony, of which she 
obtained living roots, which she succeeded in 
establishing in her garden. She gave a 
plant to Mr. Moore, of Glasnevin, which 
flowered in April this year, when it was 
identified as P. Cambessedesi, known to 
inhabit the Balearic Islands and Corsica, but 
not previously introduced into cultivation. 
A figure of it has just been published in the 
Botanical Magazine, where we are informed 
that its nearest ally is P. eorallina, one of 
the several species from which the herbaceous 
Pseonies of garden origin have been bred. It 
differs, however, in having the veins and 
under surface of the leaves coloured purple, 
and in having glabrous fruits. As a garden 
plant P. Cambessedesi has decided claims, its 
flowers being about 4 inches across, well 
formed, and coloured deep rose-pink, with 
yellow anthers and purple stigmas. For its 
cultivation the treatment that answers for 
other herbaceous Pteonies will be found 
suitable.— The Etch/. 

Cape Fig-wort (Phygejius capensis). This 
handsome late-flowering perennial does not 
appear to be so well known as it deserves. 
It is not only handsome when seen in large 
bush plants, but it is valuable for cutting, 
and highly ornamental in the garden. In 
different parts of the country the plant be- 

Digitized by (jO' 


haves somewhat differently. While a true 
herbaceous subject in northern districts— 
dying to the ground or being cut down each 
winter, to spring again from the root stock 
each year—it is, in more favoured localities, 
something akin to a sub-shrub, and remains 
evergreen to boot. But, even so, I am not 
sure but that the plant is more ornamental 
when hard cut back and made to produce 
annual stems or growths from near the base 
or even from below ground, for such growths 
possess a certain freshness of tlieir own, quite 
apart from that greater vigour common to 
plants breaking from below ground. The 
plant is now in flower, and the rich crimson- 
scarlet blossoms, produced in a loose pyra¬ 
mid, are effective in the garden or when cut. 
The blossoms, an inch or more in length, and 
drooping, are produced in twos, threes, or 
more at the extremities of the nearly liori 
zontally-disposed pedicels, which, like tht; 
upper portion of the flowering spike, are 
coloured a reddish crimson. For late autumn- 
flowering the plant is of much value, and 
deserves to be more freely grown. It is 
quite hardy, and will succeed in ordinary 
garden soils. -E. J. 

Late Asters. I do not think sufficient 
attention is paid to late or successional crops 
of Asters, for they are valuable for cutting, 
and where there is a good deal of wreath- 
making, they are useful during September 
and October. In many gardens that I have 
visited growers seem to rely almost solely 
on one or two sowings, made very early in 
tlio spring, and. although these give abun¬ 
dance of flowers during June, July, and part 
of August, they get seedy, and of little use 
during the latter part of summer. For this 
reason I have sowed several boxes of seed 
during May and June, as well as a few rows 
thinly in the open ground, and from these I 
had a plentiful supply of bloom all through 
September. The latest are only just coining 
into bloom (October 5th), and will keep up 
the supply as long as they are of any use 
out-of-doors, for as soon as Chrysanthemums 
get plentiful Asters are not so much required. 
I think the past summer has been very favour¬ 
able to Asters, but one variety- viz., Vick’s 
Branching White has given an enormous 
lot of bloom. In the middle of summer I 
could cut any quantity with very long stalks, 
and these have been succeeded by a second 
crop of smaller blooms that have proved ex 
tremely useful for many purposes when small 
white flowers are required. The various 
coloured varieties of Comet Asters were very 
beautiful early in the season, but the featheiy 
petals that constitute a great part of their 
beauty suffer from heavy rains and storms 
late in the season, and some of the stouter- 
pe tailed ones are preferable.— James Groom, 
Cosport. 

Ulium Yoshidai. Two years ago, says The. 
Field, Herr Max Leiehtlin, of Baden-Baden, 
described a new Lily which was then in 
flower for the first time with him. He had 
raised it from seeds obtained from the 
Philippine Islands via Japan, the seedlings 
having grown very rapidly and produced 
flowers two years after they were sown. The 
plants were evergreen, and, what was still 
more remarkable, they showed no signs of 
forming a scaly bulb such as characterises nil 
other species of Lilium, having only a tufted 
root stock from which the stems grew direct. 
Three stems grew from a yearling plant, and 
bore thirteen flowers with long, slender tubes, 
otherwise resembling those of L. Browni. 
Two plants of this Lily were obtained for 
Kew, where one of them is now flowering in 
the Himalayan house. In general characters 
it resembles L. philippinense, which, in its 
turn, is very near L. longiflorum, the com¬ 
mon .white Lily of Japan and China. There 
are, however, marked differences: first, there 
is the absence of a true bulb in L. Yoshidai; 
then the stems are 6 feet high, or three times 
the height, of typical L. philippinense; the 
leaves arc 6 inches long, and very narrow, 
scarcely a sixth of an inch broad ; the flowers 
are white, about 8 inches long, with a narrow 
tube stained with dull crimson along the 
ribs, and spreading segments 4 inches across. 
They are very fragrant and lasting. One of 
the Kew plants has from the first been in a 
border outside, but here it has not made much 


grow th ; whereas the plant now in flower has 
grown in a border of peat in an unheated 
house, where the conditions arc adapted to the 
requirements of Himalayan Rhododendrons. 

Clematis graveolens. This is a beautiful 
autumn flowering Clematis, especially valu¬ 
able from the distinct , hue of the blossoms, 
which, instead of the white, lavender, or 
purple with which we are so familiar, are of a 
pleasing shade of yellow, besides which the 
feathery clusters of seeds are in their silvery 
sheen very attractive. It is a free-growing, 
but slender habited species, quite at home 
when allowed to ramble at will over a trellis, 
neighbouring shrub, or in some such situa¬ 
tion. and is one that once well established will 
take good care of itself. This Clematis is a 
native of the extreme northern parts of the 
Himalayas and of Tartary. 

Weedy turf.— Owing to so much moisture during 
the past season weeds as well as Grass have grown 
apace, and now in mild weather, as opportunity 
occurs, Plaintains, Daisies, and Dandelions .should he 
eradicated wherever they have established them¬ 
selves; indeed, if the turf should be badly infested 
with weeds it is much better to dig the whole of it 
up, picking out the roots and levelling the patch pre¬ 
paratory to sowing with seed in spring, unless it Is 
intended to lay turf, which may be done at any time 
should the weather be mild. —F. \V. D. 


LEUCOJUM ACTUMXALE. 

This, also known as Aeis autumnalis, has 
been in bloom for some time, and we wonder 
that so pretty a bulbous plant is so seldom 
seen. A clump, as shown in our illustration 
on p. 489. is delightful with its white, glassy, 
drooping flowers and chocolate stems. Were 
it more plentiful one could imagine the beauty 
of a sheet of some mossy Saxifrage spangled 
with the little flowers of the Autumn Snow¬ 
flake. It comes so freely from seed that it is 
surprising it is not more often seen. T. 


FERNS. 

GYMNOGRAMMA SCHIZOPHYLLA. 
This is one of the most beautiful Ferns in 
cultivation, and very pretty in a young state. 
In a warm house it is of the easiest culture, 
and thrives either in pots or baskets, its habit 
fitting it well for the latter. It should, if 
possible, be suspended where the fronds can¬ 
not be touched or bruised, as, when grown on 
a stage w ith other plants, they are apt to bo. 
The fronds on well grown specimens grow 
from 18 inches to 2 feet in length, and the 
pinnae are deeply cut, the dark, wiry stems 
showing plainly through them. It is not good 
practice to syringe this Fern much overhead ; 
a light dewing will do no harm on hot. drying 
clays. If required for table decoration, it. 
may easily be kept in small pote; in fact, it is 
much safer under than over-potted in anv 
ease; but when a plant becomes very much 
pot-bound it is wise to give the roots a chance 
to get away from the old ball before re¬ 
potting. This may be done by turning it out 
of its pot and laying it for a time in a little 
loose Fern compost. The tiny rootlets soon 
begjn to run out into this, when the plant 
may safely be potted, with a little of tlie new 
material clinging to the roots. If placed in a 
fresh pot without this precaution, the old ball 
often gets dried up, while the new soil around 
it is moist, the consequence being that the 
roots perish before they have a chance to get 
cut. Very pretty baskets may be made by 
placing a strong plant in the centre, and, ns 
the young crowns appear on the tips of the 
fronds, pegging these down to the sides of 
tlu basket. In about three years they w ill be 
at their best, and another set should be 
planted to take their place when they become 
too thick, for the beauty of this Fern lies in 
its lightness and airy character, and this i« to 
some extent lost in a thick mass of fronds. 

The best way to propagate G. schizoplivlla 
is by means of the young crowns referred to, 
these being laid on small pots of compost near 
the parent plant until rooted. They come 
away with more freedom than divided por¬ 
tions of an old plant, as these cannot be 
separated without losing many of the best 
roots. If only the latter are at command, 
place them in as small pots as possible in a 
moist house, so that they may be kept fro<h 
without very much root moisture. Once let 
the roots get hold of the soil tlie£ are all 

JNIVERSTTY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




November 9, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


489 


right; but the latter soon becomes eour and , 
unsuitable for them when the moisture is not 
taken up. There is a garden form called 
gloriosa which is stronger in growth, but the 
type is as often as not sold for it. R. 

THE HARDY FERNERY. 

Now that autumn has come, with its cool 
nights, the beet time of the year has arrived 
for the formation of new ferneries outdoors 
or the re arrangement of old ones. This, 
therefore, is an appropriate time to bring for¬ 
ward the 

Mode of planting. —The planting of Ferns 
is often done without any system, in a sort of 
haphazard style, and thus the effect i« con¬ 
siderably minimised!. While system, how¬ 
ever, is necessary for the production of the 
best results and effects, it must not be sup¬ 
posed that a symmetrical and artificial style 
is advocated. One thing which is, perhaps, 
more noticeable than any other in the natu¬ 
ral habitats of the Fern family is the manner 
in which they grow. As a rule, where Ferns 
are abundant, they are found growing in 
masses or clumps of each individual kind, and 
although stragglers arc found outside of these 
clumps, they are, as it were, colonisers, which 


arrangement of the different genera and spe¬ 
cies or varieties, the peculiarities of each 
I may be made prominent, the clumps of the 
I heavier-foliaged kinds serving to show up 
those of the lighter and more graceful kinds. 

I The colour also, or the shades of green, 

| should be considered, and thus another fea¬ 
ture of interest utilised in the arrangement 
| to produce improved effect. 

Time for planting. —Autumn is the best 
time of the year for the planting of Ferns 
out-of-doors, as, their season’s growth having 
been made, they will bear removal then better 
than when in a growing condition, and there is 
little risk of injury provided reasonable care 
is exercised. When replanted in September 
or October, the plants have an opportunity to 
j make roots and become established by the 
spring. They may, indeed, be safely removed 
any time before growth commences, but the 
longer the interval between their removal and 
| their commencing to grow, the better it will 
, be for them. AIL Ferns should be removed 
and replanted with as many roots as possible ; 
if the whole of the living fibrous roots they 
I have made are left intact, there is far more 
certainty of their making vigorous and satiB- 
I factory growth the following season than if 
' a number of these feeders are broken off and 



The Autumn Snowfhke (Leucojum autumnale) (eyn. Acis autumnalis). (See opposite page.) 


have by some means become isolated, but 
which will proceed to gather around them a 
progeny by offshoots or spores, which will in 
course of time form equally effective masses 
as those existing in their immediate neigh¬ 
bourhood. For instance, on the mountain 
sides are seen square yards covered with 
nothing but the Parsley iTern (Allosorus cris- 
pus) j in other places dense masses of the 
Lady Fern (Athyrium Filix-fcemina); else¬ 
where even larger masses of the Male Fern 
(Lnstrea Filix mas). In some places the 
mountain Buckler Fern (Lastrea montana) 
abounds, forming long, irregular masses ; and 
the same remarks may be made in reference 
to most of the British species. When these 
things are considered, they serve to guide 
Fern cultivators in the style they should 
adopt in the planting of Ferns in their gar¬ 
dens, whether on rockwork or otherwise. Far 
too frequently Ferns are dotted about and 
intermingled one with another, so that there 
is nothing definite in the effect, all indivi¬ 
duality of species being lost. To prevent 
this, and at the same time to come as near 
as possible to Nature’s wave, Ferns should be 
planted in clumps, say, half a dozen or so of a 
kind together. By this means each kind will 
be kept distinct, and an effect produced at 
once pleasing and natu ~ 

Digitize - ‘ 




the plants deprived of their assistance. At 
this season also, division of the crowns and 
rhizomes may be most safely accomplished, 
and thus an increased number of plants be 
secured for extension of the fernery. 

Many people have a clearing up when the 
leaves have fallen from the trees and the Fern 
foliage becomes brown, but in the interest 
of the Ferns this should be postponed until 
spring. The fronds of the Ferns and the 
fallen leaves, when left on and about the 
plants, serve materially to protect the crowns 
and slender creeping rhizomes of such as the 
Oak Fern, the Beech Fern, and similar kinds 
from the frosts and cold winds. They also 
serve to retain moisture about the plants, 
which is very beneficial during even the dor¬ 
mant season. In spring, when the new fronds 
begin to start and grow th is on the point of 
becoming vigorous, it is advisable to remove 
the old fronds, as they are not then of much 
further use to the plants, and they can be dis¬ 
pensed with and the fernery cleared up ready 
for the new season. 

Soil. —An important matter in the making 
of a new or in the reconstruction of an old 
fernery is the proper compost for the Feins 
to grow in. When possible, some good fibrous 
turfy loam should be procured, and after the 
removal of any growing material, the fibrous 


portion should be chopped up so as to form 
a nice rough mass. To this should be added 
an equal proportion of good, partially-de¬ 
cayed leaf-mould, another equal quantity of 
good, fibrous peat, and about an equal propor¬ 
tion of sharp sand. These mixed together 
will form a compost in which almost any Fern 
will grow luxuriantly. Of course, some of 
the kinds require a little variation. For in¬ 
stance, the Polypodies will he better with a 
double quantity of leaf mould, the Osmundas 
a double quantity of *peat, the Scolopen- 
driums will also be benefited by a free admix¬ 
ture of lime in the form of old mortar, broken 
oyster-shells, or tufa duet. Blechnums, how¬ 
ever, cannot do with lime, hence it is a good 
plan to mix up the general compost first, arid 
then, taking this ae the foundation, provide 
the various kinds with anything special which 
they may require. 


SEEDLING FERNS. 

Seedling Ferns, especially those in the 
earlier stages of development, will need to 
be sharply looked after, as the damper and 
more autumn-like weather we are now ex¬ 
periencing will cause some of the more deli¬ 
cate kinds to decay if they are unduly 
crowded. In order to avoid this ae far as 
possible, the store pots that are getting too 
thick should be gone over, and the young 
plants pricked off at a greater distance from 
each other than before. As young Ferns, 
generally speaking, make more rapid pro¬ 
gress when kept rather close, the propagating 
case and such appliances arc often utilised 
for their reception when available; but the 
humid atmosphere is also favourable to the 
development of various Mosses and Confervas, 
which are apt to choke up the young plants, 
especially those of delicate constitution and 
rather slow growth. To prevent this, the soil 
should be baked before using, as by so doing 
all insects as well as vegetable organisms 
will be destroyed. It will be a great advan¬ 
tage to prick off the young plants before they 
are much crowded, as, if this is not done till 
they form one dense moss, those in the. 
centre become drawn up and greatly 
weakened, so that decay is often liable to set 
in amongvst them. In pricking off Ferns, the 
soil must be slightly pressed down, as the 
roots run more readily, and the plants make 
greater progress than if the compost is very 
solid. This remark applies not only to Ferns 
during their very earliest stages, but also to 
good sized plants ; and where it is desired to 
push a batch on as quickly as possible, the 
potting should be done lightly. The present 
is not at all a good time of the year for 
Bowing Fern spores, the early months of the 
year being the best; but at the same time, 
where it is intended to sow a quantity, any 
spores that are available may be taken now, 
as it ie not always possible to find fertile 
fronds of all kinds just when wanted, and 
they keep perfectly well with ordinary care. 
All that is necessary is to take the frond or 
part of a frond and lay it in clean white 
paper, folded carefully (the minute character 
of the spores needing this) till required for 
sowing. A dry place, such as is favourable 
to the keeping of 6eeds, is very suitable for 
storing the Fern spores till required. 


Moss in lawn (W. B.).—Get some sulphate of iron 
| and mix it in the proportion of 1 lb. of sulphate to 
2 gallons of water. The solution should be made in a 
wooden cask, and, if possible, with soft or rain-water, 
and also just before it is used, as it loses strength 
by keeping. The sulphate can bo applied at any 
season, and is known to Ire acting when the Moss 
turns black, after which it withers away. If the ap¬ 
plication has been too weak the Moss only turns red, 
and a second application is necessary. Moss generally 
indicates poorness of the soil, and it is well, after the 
Moss has been destroyed, to apply some rich top- 
dressing. such ns wood-ashes, loamy soil, and well- 
rotted manure well mixed together. We have seen 
good results follow a heavy top-dressing of old 
Mushroom-bed manure. This veas allowed to lie dur¬ 
ing the winter on the Grass for the frost to break it 
down. In the spring it was raked over with wooden 
rakes and incorporated with the turf, a beautiful 
green sward being the result the following summer. 
We fear you will not get any Ivy to cling to a wall 
faced with cement and painted. You will have to fix 
a trellis.___ 

Index to Volume XXVIII.-The binding covers 
(price Is. tid. each, post free. Is. 9d.) and Index (3d., 
post free. 3FU for Volume XXVIII. are now ready, 
and may be had of all newsagents, or of the l’ub» 
Usher, post free, $s. for the two. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 










490 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


November 9, 1907 * 


ORCHIDS. 

SOPH RON ITIS GRANDIFLORA. 
This dwarf-growing epiphytal Orchid was in¬ 
troduced into this country about sixty-six 
years ago from the Organ Mountains, and 
where from time to time large numbers have 
been collected and sent home. The plant has 
always been highly appreciated by amateurs, 
the brilliant scarlet flowers being extremely 
showy and attractivej and at the present 
time, in nearly every garden where indoor 
plants are cultivated, it is represented by one 
or more specimens. In fact, when half a 
dozen good-sized plants are in bloom during 
the winter months, there are few other plants 
of such small growth that can produce such a 
charming effect, especially when arranged 
with flowering plants of the'well-known Odon- 
toglossum crispum. The plants are most 
effective when grown in shallow Orchid pans, 
with copper wire handles attached, so that 
they may easily be suspended close to the roof 
glass, this being very necessary at the present 
season, as the young grow tbs are now sending 
up flowers, requiring all the light possible. 
The plant is generally found to succeed very 
well in the Odontoglossum house during the 
summer; but in collections where the night 
temperature of the house is allowed to fall 
below 45 degs. and 50 dogs, at this season, it 
is advisable to remove Sophronitis to the 
slightly warmer temperature of the inter¬ 
mediate house, observing that the maximum 
of light is obtained. The little extra warmth 
is more conducive to the better expansion of 
the flowers than if the plants were allowed to 
remain in the eool house. Arrange the plants 
in such a way that they may obtain plenty of 
fresh air w ithout being in a line of draughts. 
During this, their growing season, the plants 
need to be well supplied with water. When 
the flowers are open, the plants may be re¬ 
turned to the cool house, and, if no water is 
allowed to touch the blooms, they w ill retain 
their freshness for a very long period. When 
the flowering season is over, the plants must 
still be watered freely, until the growths are 
completed, when the quantity should be gra¬ 
dually lessened; but at no time should water 
be entirely withheld, and the compost must 
be kept fairly moist, even when growth is 
dormant. Repotting may be done when 
growth commences, or soon after the flowers 
fade. Sopbronitis grandiflora will grow very 
well with only an inch or two of compost to 
root in, which may consist of equal parts of 
chopped peat and Sphagnum Moss, while 
some growers produce equally good results by 
using the same proportion of Polypodium fibre 
and Osmurula fibre, but no Sphagnum Moss. 
Whichever materials are preferred, a suffi¬ 
cient quantity of small broken crocks should 
be employed, to keep the soil open, so that 
water may pass freely through it. 

It is interesting to note that this insignifi¬ 
cant-looking species, as it always appears 
when not in bloom, has, by the gardener's 
skill, brought into existence many distinct 
and remarkable hybrid Orchids of excep¬ 
tional beauty, all of which well deserve a 
place in every collection; and it may be 
added that at the present time they are 
eagerly sought, after by amateurs. Satisfac¬ 
tory results have been obtained by cross fer¬ 
tilisation with distinct species, as Cattlcyas, 
Ltelias, and Epidcndrum, a few of which 
may ho enumerated, as Sophro-Cattleya 
Chamberlainiana. Sophro-Cattleya oximia, 
Sophro-Cattleya Doris, Sophro Ladia Heaton- 
en*is, Sophro-Lielia beta Orpetiana, Sophro- 
Jjjelia Vcitchi. also the free-growing and use¬ 
ful Epiphronitis Vcitchi. 


Alstrcemerlas from seed i Enquirer ). — Seeds 
should he sown sis soon as ripe in pots, pans, or 
boxes, in sandy loam covering a quarter of an inch 
deep. You must protect the pots from frost during 
the winter. Seeds sown in the autumn and not too 
thickly will have formed several tubers a year hence, 
if well looked after, when they should he planted out. 
The strongest tubers should flower the second year. 
Some growers sow from three to five seeds in each 
pot, and let the seedlings remain in the pots the first 
year, their reason being that the young plants are 
very dilfieult to handle, and if transplanted when too 
young many of them will die. 

Digitized by Google 


QARDEN PEST8 AND FRIENDS. 

MEALY-BUG (DACTYLOPIUS ADONI- 
DUM). 

This is one of the very worst insect pests 
that a gardener can be troubled with under 
glass, and a bad attack occasions much 
anxiety, and leads to the expenditure of much 
time and labour in effecting its eradication. 
Some entertain the opinion that mealy-bug 
can never be cot rid of, but with persever¬ 
ance and the application of such remedies as 
are suited to the particular needs of the case, 
whether it be plants or fruit-trees, it can be 
subdued, and, by the exercise of vigilance 
afterwards, eventually extirpated. As is well 
known, this insect has long been a denizen of 
our plant-houses, and the warmer the tem¬ 
perature the more quickly does. it. increase. 
It also infests fruit-trees under glass, but is 
more generally to be seen on the Grape- 
Vine than any other kind of fruit. Its pre¬ 
sence in this Latter instance is generally due, 
in the first place, to some plant already 
infested with it having been introduced into 
the vinery, where, if it once gains a footing, 
it is not long in spreading from the stem to 
laterals and bunches in such congenial sur¬ 
roundings. The cracks in the bark on the 
rods and the crevices around the spurs of old 
Vines offer such a secure hiding place and 
breeding ground for the pest that, ordinary 
means or such as may be employed in ridding 
a plant of it are of no avail whatever. 

Its presence, as too many are only aware, 
is indicated by the white, downy substance 
surrounding the insects and their nests, and. 
this being waterproof, the application of suit¬ 
able remedies is rendered the more difficult. 
Objectionable as n plant infested with mealy¬ 
bug appears, what can be said of a Vine, 
particularly when the attack is so severe as to 
include the bunches of fruit also? Nothing, 
I think, can present a more loathsome ap¬ 
pearance. and. although washing and svring 
ing may be resorted to to rid the bunches of 
the bug, the fruit does not. look very appetis¬ 
ing afterwards, both from loss of bloom and 
the inability to remove the viscous fluid de¬ 
pots i ted by the insect on the berries. In 
ordinary cases, a diligent and frequent spong¬ 
ing of the plants will keep the ]>est under, 
and once this is done it will give but little 
trouble in future, if the precaution to fumi¬ 
gate the house weekly with A1 compound is 
taken, this having a very deadly effect on 
mealy-bug. In more severe attacks, the 
cleansing has to he extended to the structure 
itself, and followed bv the painting of all 
interior woodwork. All yrcopers should be 
liberated from trellises and undergo a good 
cleaning before painting is attempted--as 
these ofttimes harbour great numbers of the 
insects. The walls, too. should have special 
attention, particularly if they are not in a 
good state of repair, filling all holes with 
cement, afterwards giving two coats of lime- 
wash, to which half a pint of petroleum has 
been added while the lime was slaking. 
Thoroughly clean under the stag(\s and hot- 
water pipes—-in fact, examine every corner 
which can possibly form a biding place for 
the insects. Use the best white lead for 
painting with, working the same well into all 
cracks and crevices of the woodwork, so as 
to effectually seal up any insects there may 
be therein. For sonic time after, a vigilant 
outlook must be kept, as some stray bugs will 
be sure to put in an appearance. These can 
be quickly despatched bv touching them with 
a camel hair pencil dipped in methylated 
spirit. 

For plant sponging X L All insecticide or 
any other approved make may be used, and 
for creepers or any subject which is fairly 
hard-wooded, petroleum emulsion. Much of 
the foregoing is also applicable to the clear¬ 
ing of a vinery of an attack, as spraying with 
the last-named insecticide now and again will 
keep the enemy in check until the Vines shed 
their leaves, when more drastic measures 
can be tnken. In the first place, prune the 
Vines and burn the pruning* at once. Then 
clear out everything that is movable, and well 
clean with soapy water and petroleum. After 
this, cover the floor of the house with mats 
or tarpaulins, and proceed to divest the 
Vines of every particle of loose bark, pay¬ 


ing particular attention to the spurs, as tlie 
crevices usually existing round about these 
form hiding places for the bug. When com¬ 
pleted, carefully gather up and burn the rub¬ 
bish, after which well wash the rods with an 
insecticide at the- prescribed strength, when 
they will be ready for dressing with a mixture 
of coal-tar and clay (the best, of all winter 
dressings for Vines infested with mealy-bug), 
or with a solution of Gishurst’s compound — 
4 lb. to one gallon of water, and thickened 
by the addition of a double handful of clay. 
X L All can also be used, with or without the 
clay, for the same purpose, but both of the 
last-named remedies are not so effective as 
the first, and should, therefore, be used when 
the attack is not a severe one. A sharp look¬ 
out in any case must be kept when the Vines 
commence making new growth next season, 
and despatch all insects that put in an ap¬ 
pearance with the camel-hair pencil, as de¬ 
scribed above. 

The coal-tar and clay mixture recom¬ 
mended above is made as follows:—Procure 
and dry 6ome good clay, which pound and 
pass through a fine sieve. Then into an old 
bucket or similar article put nine equal parts 
of the sifted clay and one of coal tar. Mix 
both intimately together by kneading and 
well stirring the mass for some ten minutes, 
afterwards adding boiling water in sufficient 
quantity to reduce the whole to the consis¬ 
tency of paint. Apply with an old paint 
brush, working the mixture into every crack 
and crevice on the rods particularly round 
the spurs but avoid smearing the buds with 
it. Keep the mixture frequently stirred dur¬ 
ing the time it is being used. ’ A. W. 


NOTES AND HEPL1ES. 

The Vino weevil. —I am pending you a few speci¬ 
mens of maggots which are spoiling the whole of my 
Cyclamens. They have eaten the roots off quite near 
the tuber, and some are embedded in the tuber; 
about a dozen in a pot. Will you please tell me 
wh-it you think is the cause of them getting there? 
A little peat wap used in the potting, and since the 
pots have been full of roots I have watered them 
with soot and fowl-manure soaked in water. 1 have 
given it in weak doses only.—A. G. 

[The grubs you send are those of the black 
Vine-weevil (Otiorrhvnchus eulcatus), a very 
annoying pest. It foed.s on the leaves and 
young shoots of various plants. Vines and 
Maiden hair Ferns being special favourites, 
and the grubs are equally injurious to the 
roots of Ferns, Primulas, Cyclamens, Straw¬ 
berries. and many other plants. No insecti¬ 
cides can be used with any effect against tho 
weevils, and all you can do is to search for 
the beetles. You might lay small bundles of 
Moss or hay about, so that the beetles may 
creep into them for shelter during the day. 
These traps should be examined every morn¬ 
ing. The weevils only feed at night. They 
may be caught if you can find on wliat plants 
they are feeding by laying a white sheet under 
the plant in the course of the day. and then 
when it has been dark for some time throwing 
a bright light, suddenly on the plant. This 
frightens the weevils, and they fall as if dead, 
when they may be easily collected. If they do 
not fall shake the plant well. The beetles lay 
their eggs at the roots of the plants, the grubs 
hatched from these eggs feed on the roots, 
and eventually become chrysalides, from which 
the weevils emerge in due course. The only 
way of destroying the grubs is to pick them 
out. from among the roots.] 

Pears spotted (ft. A. and Owen*, ll'i/iiliej. 
—Your Pears are affected with the black 
spot fungus, for which spray the tree in No¬ 
vember and early in February with caustic 
alkali solution, and with Bordeaux mixture 
just before the tree blossoms, soon after tho 
fruit i.s set. and once or twice afterwards, ns 
may be deemed advisable. If possible or 
practicable to do so, lift the roots now. and 
search for tap roots under the ball or base of 
the tree, which sever with a long-handled 
chisel. The trench you will have to open to 
carry out the above recommendations should 
then be filled in with turfy loam, wood-ashes, 
or charred refuse, adding some bone-meal 
and a little lime rubbish in a fine state if the 
loam is of an adhesive nature, and mulch the 
surface when completed. Beurre Diet re¬ 
quires good cultivation and a warm soil to 
bring it to perfection. 


UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS A 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



November 9, 1907 


GARDENING ILL USIR AT ED. 


491 



FRUIT. 

TEACH PRINCESS OF WALES. 
Most cultivators are, we take it, acquainted 
with this very large, handsome, and highly- 
esteemed Peach, of which we now present 
our readers with an illustration. Wherever 
Peaches are in demaud towards the middle 
and end of August—or, for the matter of that, 
the early part of September—there is no finer 
variety in cultivation for furnishing a supply 
at those particular periods than the one 
under notice, and not a few growers cultivate 
it specially under glass with that end in view. 
It is also equally valuable for growing out¬ 
doors, where soil and climatic conditions are 
favourable, its season then being from the 
middle to the end of September, according to 
locality. In a cool and sunless summer, such 
as the past one has been, it is then quite 
ten or fourteen days later in ripening. The 
variety has a hardy, vigorous constitution, 
and is a persistent cropper, the present season 
being no exception to the rule with regard 
to outdoor trees. Such is its fertility when 
grown under glass that thinning requires to 
be done with no niggardly hand, so soon as 
the fruits are properly set. But, with re¬ 
spect to the final thinning, usually performed 
on the completion of 
the stoning period, 
some growers find it 
good policy to leave 
more fruits than at 
first sight appear to 
be necessary, be¬ 
cause some of them 
are cast just when 
starting to swell ofT. 

This, however, never 
assumes any serious 
proportions, and, 
with this single in¬ 
stance, there is no¬ 
thing further of an 
adverse nature to be 
advanced against this 
fine Peach. In cap¬ 
able hands the trees 
can be induced to 
yield and perfect 
magnificent exam¬ 
ples season after 
season, which, when 
sent, to table or ex¬ 
posed for sale, as 
the case may be, 
compel admiration. 

A glance at the il¬ 
lustration will con¬ 
vey at once to those 
unacquainted with 
Princess of Wales 
Peach a pretty cor¬ 
rect idea as to its 

handsome shape and size, but we may men¬ 
tion that in some examples the height exceeds 
the width, the suture is deeper, and the 
nipple at the apex is more prominent than is 
here depicted. It has a cream-coloured skin, 
with a beautifully rosy flush on the sunny 
side—the colour being deeper on specimens 
grown outdoors—the flesh is white, melting, 
and richly flavoured when thoroughly 
matured. The flesh is reddish round about 
the stone, and parts freely from it, thus con¬ 
stituting it as belonging to what are termed 
free-stone Peaches, in contradistinction to 
those whose flesh adheres or clings to the 
seed vessel, and known as cling stones. The 
flowers arc pale in colour and very large, 
rendering the trees very handsome objects 
while in bloom. The foliage is also large, 
and furnished with round glands. As with so 
many varieties of choice hardy fruits, 
growers are indebted to the late Mr. Rivers 
for this Peach, it being one of the many 
seedlings raised and distributed by him. 

NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Plum-tree carrying a second crop — A friend 
of mine has a Plum-tree, which, I think, is a profit¬ 
able and paying tree. He has had 200 lb. at the first 
picking, and there is a second but smaller crop soon 
ripe. The tree was in bloom the second time while 
the first crop was ripening.—P lum. 

[It sometimes happen^ as in your case, 


that Plum-trees bear two crops of fruit. It 
would have been much better had you sacri¬ 
ficed the second crop, as by allowing it to 
hang and ripen you are weakening the tree 
so much that, probably, it will not bear for 
two or three years, and, in the end, may fail. 
In the end disaster is sure to follow over¬ 
cropping.] 

Winter Quarrenden. For the first time 
since its introduction, I saw a few days since, 
in a neighbouring garden, a really good crop 
of this excellent Apple, the individual fruits 
being very fine, clean grown, and beautifully 
coloured. In appearance it is the exact 
counterpart of the old Devonshire Qunrrcn- 
den, but it is larger, and, as the prefix im¬ 
plies, it is a mid-winter variety. Should it 
bear as freely elsewhere as in the instance 
referred to above, it cannot fail to commend 
itself to both private and market growers 
alike for its striking appearance, good keep¬ 
ing properties, and its excellent quality, 
which, 1 was given to understand, is equal to 
that of the early variety bearing the same 
name. —A. W. 

Dessert Apples to plant.— Any amateur 

purposing to plant a nice selection of dessert 
Apples, may, in looking over a nursery list 
which includes scores of varieties, and per¬ 
haps even hundreds, find it difficult to dotcr- 


ens^ as in your cas 

Google 


Teach Princees of Wales. 


mine which may be best for his purpose. In 
the first place, he wants nice, edible quality 
and good flavour. Too many Apples classed 
as dessert are either hard in flesh, wanting 
in flavour, and uncertain croppers, or, like 
so many of the early ones, brisk to eat one 
day, and past the next. In planting but a 
dozen varieties, chief consideration should 
be given to those which are mid-season or 
late, and are therefore good keepers, the first 
earlies being few. Beauty of Bath or Irish 
Peach may well be the first early, being fol¬ 
lowed by a»i early of sterling merit, not well 
known, Miller’s Seedling. Then come 
James Grieve, Cox’s Orange Pippin, Ailing- 
ton Pippin, Charles Ross, Adam’s Pearmain, 
Scarlet Nonpareil, Barnack Beauty, Lord 
Hindlip, and Sturmer Pippin. Such a selec- 
tion will be hard to heat, and should in good 
ground given entire satisfaction.—1). 

The fruit crops.— From reports it seems 
that the fruit crop is very variable—in fact, 
by no means a good one in many parts of the 
country—and 1 think that we in South Hants 
are amongst the favoured ones this year, for 
Apples and Pears and all other kinds of fruit 
are above the average. The early kinds of 
Codlin Apples, such as Keswick, 'Lord Suf 
field, and other light, soft Apples, were un¬ 
usually abundant and fine, and the dessert 
sorts, such as Lady Sudeley, Juneating, Red 
Quarrenden, and Worcester Pearmain, were 


specially good and well coloured, in spite of 
the sunless season. There are crops of 
Warner’s King, Emperor Alexander, Cellini 
Pippin, Lane's Prince Albert, Blenheim 
Orange, Wellington, and others, and I notice 
that already the flower-buds for next season’s 
crop are looking very promising. Pears are 
also a very good crop ; I have had an excel¬ 
lent crop of Williams’ Bon Chretien ; Beurre 
d’Amanlis has been remarkably good, and I 
have abundance of Beurre Superfin, Beurre 
Bose, and Beurre Diel, while the trees of 
Catillac, one of the finest of all stewing 
Pears, are weighed down with the crop. To¬ 
matoes that had been looked on as quite 
hopeless, and, in some cases, had been rooted 
up, to make room for other crops, have lately 
developed a nice lot of well-coloured fruit.—- 
James Groom, Gosport. 

Dwarf Pomegranate. —On one of the low 
outside walls of the T range at Kew, this 
Pomegranate is in full flower, and I know no 
more desirable dwarf shrub for such a pur¬ 
pose. It forms a dense, twiggy bush, from 
3 feet to 4 feet in height, and the flowers, 
which are very freely borne, are in the bud 
state, of a bright sealing-wax-like red, but 
after expansion they change to a rich, glow¬ 
ing orange tint. As a succession of flowers is 
maintained, it is ail object of groat beauty 
for a month or thereabouts, added to which 
the leaves change to a bright golden-yellow 
before they drop, but, as a rule, they do not 
remain long in this stage. According to 
Loudon, this dwarf Pomegranate was intro¬ 
duced in 1723, but it is very rarely met with 
—certainly not so frequently as it deserves. 
A hot. sunny wall is very necessary to the 
production of a good crop of blossoms, and, 
under such conditions, I had for many years 
a fine plant under my observation in a one¬ 
time prominent London nursery, now com¬ 
pletely built over. During the flowering sea¬ 
son it was an object of great beauty and a 
source of pleasure to many. The different 
forms of the ordinary Pomegranate with 
double blossoms are very handsome when in 
bloom, but. to see them at their best, they 
need a wall from 8 feet to 12 feet high, and 
facing due south.—X. 

Mistakes in orchard planting.— ‘N.’’ 
(page 441) does good service in calling atten¬ 
tion to several very popular errors in pre¬ 
paring the soil for planting orchard trees. 

I have not got by any means an ideal fruit 
soil. but. by adopting all sorts of devices for 
encouraging a mat of surface roots, I have a 
large collection of young fruit-trees, that are 
the most fruitful I have ever seen. I am now 
gathering the last of the finest crop of 
fruit I have ever grown. Although the trees 
have been so heavily laden, thanks to a glo¬ 
rious September to ripen fruit and wood, 
and now deluges of rain, the flower-buds for 
next season’s crop are very abundant. My 
own experience is decidedly in favour of 
orchards with the surface soil cultivated, and 
kept clean by frequent surface stirring, 
rather than laid down with Grass. In a 
general way, the produce of the old-fashioned 
Grass orchard is not equal to that from the 
cultivated plots of the market grower, and I 
feel sure that those who go in for high-class 
fruit must make up their minds to only cul¬ 
tivate one crop on any given area of land, 
for the roots of Grass or vegetables will rob 
tho trees to such an extent that all your 
labour will be lost, and the trees will soon 
get into an unhealthy state.— James Groom, 
Gosport. 

Late Melons. - This last fortnight of sun¬ 
shine has been w-orth a good deal of money, 
not only in the harvest field and the fruit 
garden, but also in the Melon ground, to 
give the finishing touches to late Melons in 
frames. Where there is the command of firc- 
heat there may be ripe. English-grown 
Melons at Christmas, but in frames warm 
coverings will be useful at night. Not much 
water will be required now. Close early. 

Old Peach trees. —I lately saw some Peach-trees 
which had been planted in 1884. These were quite 
healthy, and bearing very freely. These trees were 
top-dressed every year, and in their early days had 
been lifted on several occasions. The borders were very 
firm, and I have seldom seen trees doing so well. 
Recently, Mr. Lyon, at Cricket St. Thomas, showed 
me a Royal George Peach that had been planted 
for forty years, and which is still doing well. The 
vitality of Peach and other fruit-tree3 depends, in a 
great measure, on their treatment and surround- 

"Diversity of Illinois at 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 






492 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


November 9, 1907 


GARDEN WORK. 

Unheated conservatory.— If the house is 
roomy and light, it is quite possible to have 
it bright with Chrysanthemums, bulbs, Vio¬ 
lets, and such hardy fine-foliaged plants as 
gold and silver Euonymuses, variegated tree 
and climbing Ivies, golden Hollies in tubs 
or good-sized pots, late-blooming Michael¬ 
mas Daisies, Roses in pots, or planted in the 
borders. It is better to have a few good 
specimens of any of the above or other things 
not in this list than crowd too many poorly- 
grown plants into the house. Green-leaved 
Dracaenas, when some size has been obtained, 
and the hardy fan leaved Palm, Chamierops 
excelsa, and others, will be at home. The 
New Zealand Flax only requires a little pro¬ 
tection during severe winters. In the south 
it will live unprotected. The strong feature 
in the spring will be hardy bulbs, and Narcissi, 
Darwin and other Tulips should be potted. 
Crocuses, Snowdrops, Scillas, Hyacinths, 
Anemones, etc., may be planted now and 
plunged in fibre outside till some growth has 
been made, and then taken indoors. Sweet 
Peas started now in pots will flower early, 
and a special feature may be made of the 
different varieties oF the Christmas Rose 
(Hellebores). Climbing Roses nia}' be trained 
under the roof and up the supports. The 
Winter-flowering Jasmine (J. nudiflorum) 
will be charming in good-sized plants in tubs 
or pots, as also nice busby plants of Laurus 
linns, berry-bearing plants of Aucubas, and 
Pernettyas. Several of the hardy Bamboos 
may be planted in the borders. It is quite 
possible to make a very pretty arrangement 
with things which only require the shelter of 
a glass roof iu winter. Early-flowering Rho¬ 
dodendrons and a few hardy'Heaths may be 
added, if there is room. If there or any of 
them are planted out, excavate the borders 
feet, place 9 inches of drainage, and then 
fill in with good soil. Ventilate as freely as 
possible, except when actually freezing, and 
those things not in flower will give us bright, 
healthy foliage. 

Forcing-houso. - -There is no necessity to 
rush things just at present. A night tem¬ 
perature of 55 degs. to CO degs. will bring 
things on quietly. The usual winter-flower¬ 
ing plants, such as Libonias. Begonias, Poin- 
settias, Justicias, Bouvardias, Coleus thvr- 
soideus, Indian and other Azaleas, will do in 
this temperature. The early-potted forcing 
bulbs will come on quietly now in a night 
temperature of 55 degs., and be stronger and 
better than if more heat were applied. 
Roman Hyacinths, Freesias, Double Nar¬ 
cissus Van Sion, and one or two of the 
early single forcing kinds, will come on 
quietly now if they were potted in August 
and have made plenty of roots. If the house 
is in two divisions or sections, one part may 
be kept n little warmer for Gardenias, Ixoras, 
and plants which require a little more heat. 

Late vinery. —Now that tree-leaves can he 
obtained in most places, a good depth should 
he placed on the outside borders, as much for 
the purpose of conserving the summer’s 
warmth still in the ground as for adding to 
the warmth by mild fermentation. Before 
the leaves are placed on the border anything 
in the nature of a stimulant which may he 
required may be given, and lightly stirred in 
with a fork. This dressing will be a great 
help, as the roots, encouraged by the mild 
warmth of the leafage, will work up to it. A 
thatch of long straw over the leaves will hold 
them together, and throw off heavy rains. 
The sooner this is done now' the better. 

Ripening the wood in late Peach-houses. 
— It. is not generally considered necessary to 
use fire heat to rii>eii the wood of Peaches 
under glass ; but 1 have known cases where 
a little fire-heat was an advantage when the 
wood was inclined to grossness. This was in 
the cose of rather young trees. It is im¬ 
portant to get the wood well ripened, and a 
little warmth in the pipes for a week or two 
is very helpful if the leaves do not part from 
the wood kindly. Lifting the extremities of 
the roots, which at the same time shortens 
them, and supplies a much-needed check, is 
of great advantage, and does not cause, much 
labour. The roots of you ng Peach-tiees in a 

Digitized by GOOglC 


good border arc more likely to get out of 
touch than those of Vines, and a little check 
from time to time at the roots by working 
under the extremities will keep them up to 
their work. In making Peach borders old 
plaster or mortar may be mixed freely with 
the soil, or, say, to every cart-lond of loam 
add three or four bushels of old plaster, if the 
loam is heavy. 

Imported Azaleas. -These are rather later 
in coming over this season. On two occa¬ 
sions we have suffered loss from sea-water in 
rough weather, and plants deluged with sea¬ 
water never recover. Though they may be 
fresh when they come to hand, they soon 
turn brown and lose nil their leaves. Home 
of the growers plant in loose beds of peat and 
leaf-mould. They get more growth in that 
way, but it does not ripen, and such plants 
pusli the growth before the flowers open, and 
are never so satisfactory as when they have 
been grown in beds made reasonably firm. 
When potted, a north house is the l>est place 
for them till they have begun to make new 
roots, and it is generally necessary to reduce 
the roots a little. 

Violets In frames. These will now' he 
flowering freely, and should have all the 
ventilation possible. In wet weather tilt the 
lights up hack and front. The lights need 
not be closed for a degree or two of frost. 
Half an inch of sifted ashes, spread among 
the plants, will keep down damp and attract 
a little warmth from the sun. Very little 
water will he required. 

Plants In the house. The best plants for 
corridors and other places where the light is 
subdued arc Palms and green-leaved Dracae¬ 
nas. Large specimens in tubs arc very lasting, 
and, if changed occasionally, they suffer no 
injury. Many large houses, both in town 
and country, are now lighted by electricity, 
and this is a great advantage to the plant 
grower. 

Outdoor garden. —This is a busy time for 
planters. Tin; leaves are 110 W falling from 
deciduous trees and shrubs, and all things 
may he moved with safety now if the work is 
done with care. One need scarcely dwell 
upon the necessity for carefully trimming 
damaged roots, nor yet laying them properly 
in the soil. Where new and expensive 
things are planted, a little better soil well 
broken up, should be placed over and among 
the roots, and not only should this attention 
be given, but their progress should he 
watched in the future. I have, with advan¬ 
tage, in dealing with new things, extended 
the root-run some years after they were 
planted. It will sometimes happen that a 
choice tree or shrub after being planted a 
few’ years will become stunted in its growth 
and wear a starved appearance. This should 
be taken as a sign that help is required, and 
a trench opened up to the roots and the good 
soil extended. This will give them a new 
lease of life, and, probably, they will not 
again look hack, hut will go on and thrive. 
This refers to all things which possess more 
than average value. Bulbs, Pansies, and all 
kinds of spring flowers should be planted 
now speedily, so that the plants may become 
established before winter. Lift Gladioli, Be¬ 
gonias, Cannas, and Dahlias. 

Fruit garden. —More attention is now- 
given to the manuring of fruit-trees than was 
formerly the case. When trees have reached 
the bearing age the trees may lx* kept in con¬ 
dition with occasional ton-dressings of good 
manure, supplemented with a little chemical 
plant food, when the load is heavy. If 
pruned in a rational manner the trees would 
retain their vigour and do good work for 
many years. Young trees, if planted under 
fairly favourable conditions, do not require 
much extra feeding till they begin to bear 
freely. Apples on the Paradise-stock require 
more feeding than trees on the Crab, be¬ 
cause they want a firmer grip of the soil, and 
the roots will go down, but even in their case* 
a rich mulch will keep some of the roots 
nearer the surface. Spare liquid-manure 
may be given to trees which have borne 
heavy crops. Peach-trees which are not 
thriving may be lifted and the roots placed 
under better conditions. Rather large trees 
may be dealt with in this way without losing j 


a crop, if they are well eared for afterwards. 
Peaches will begin to make new roots im¬ 
mediately, and by the spring they will be in 
a condition to supply the matter for healthy 
growth. We have had no frost yet to bring 
ofF the leaves, but the season is advancing. 

Vegetable garden. —Mushrooms are a very 
important crop, and new beds should be 
made in succession till all the receptacles are 
filled, leaving, of course, room for Rhubarb 
and Heakale. In many gardens the Mush¬ 
room-house is on too small a 6cale to meet all 
requirements, as so much can he done in a 
dark place with a teinj>erature of 55 degs. to 
60 degs. All Mushroom-beds in bearing must 
be moistened with chilled water containing a 
little stimulant, and salt for this purpose, in 
small quantities, is a stimulant. In gardens 
where slugs, beetles, and other destructive 
insects which live in and on the earth are 
numerous, a dressing of vaporite during the 
cultivating operations will be useful. Several 
chemists who have taken up this matter are 
giving attention to the subject, and, no 
doubt, seedsmen will stock these things, so 
that small tins for experimental purposes can 
easily he obtained. It is supplied in the form 
of a powder at a cheap rate, and it is one of 
the things that will pay the cultivator to in¬ 
vest in to a limited extent, at any rate, and 
a very Bmall outlay will suffice for a large 
garden. Late Broccoli may he laid down with 
heads to the north. Early Broccoli should 
be placed where protection can be given when 
frost comes, as it may do suddenly. Endive 
may be blanched now in the Mushroom house. 

E. Hobday. 

THE COMING WEEK'S WORK. 

Extracts from a Garden Diary. 

November 11th. —We have still some fruit- 
tree planting and root-lifting to do, and this 
work is being forwarded as fast as possible, 
as we want to get this done before we com¬ 
mence pruning. Several Apple-trees of in¬ 
ferior kinds have been marked for regrafting 
in spring with better kinds, such as Newton 
Wonder, Stirling Castle, Lane’s Prince 
Albert, Allington Pippin, etc. 

November 12th.— Potted up Lilacs, Deutzias, 
Rhododendrons, and other shrubs, to force 
later on. They have been grown in pots, 
and only plunged out to complete the ripen¬ 
ing. We force a good many Lilacs and 
other things for cutting from. Of course, no 
planks are fit for forcing without proper pre¬ 
paration, which, in many things, includes 
establishing in pots. The deciduous Magno¬ 
lias will bear a little forcing, and good speci¬ 
mens in tubs are useful. 

November 13th. —All kinds of trees and 
shrubs, including Roses, are being moved 
now. All roots are trimmed a little and 
carefully spread out. We always have a heap 
of compost to spread umong the roots, to give 
them a start. This is a great help to many 
delicate things. Garden rubbish, charred 
and mixed with old potting soil, is really 
good stuff for helping newly-planted things. 

November l! t th. —We have commenced prun¬ 
ing Gooseberries and other bush fruits. A 
few strong shoots have been selected for cut¬ 
tings. A few planted annually keep up the 
stock without buying. There is always 
danger in buying Gooseberries when fungus 
is prevalent, and there is no necessity to run 
risks in such little matters. We have lifted 
the roots of several. Peach-trees on the wall. 
We do this occasionally, with good results. 

November 13th. —Potted and boxed more 
bulbs. Several large pots have been filled 
w ith Sir Watkin and other large flowered 
Narcissi, to make a show in the conservatory 
when bulbs come into flower. After Christ¬ 
mas is the time when many tilings are wanted. 
There are several large plants of Luculia 
gratissima now coining into flower. It is 
very easily managed, planted out, though not 
so manageable in pots. 

November 10th.- Filled a turf pit with late 
Cauliflowers. A bed of Lettuces (Brown Cos) 
hns been protected with dry leaves. The 
plants were tied up when dry. and in previous 
seasons we have had them keep well shel¬ 
tered in this way. Wo have plants in frames 
to fall back upon, as salad is an important 
matter at this season in the country house, 


November 9, 190? 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


493 


ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 

October 29th. 

The fortnightly meetings continue to be a 
centre of interest for all lovers of fruit, 
flowers, and vegetables, while the exhibits 
and the mode of arranging them call for the 
highest praise. To-day the confused, heavily- 
packed, meaningless banks of flowers which 
have done duty in the past are rarely seen, 
and in place thereof we see artistic arrange¬ 
ments of the plants and flowers. To illus¬ 
trate our meaning we need but refer to a 
couple of groups where excellence of culture 
and artistic arrangement were conspicuous. 
The groups to' which we refer came respec¬ 
tively from Major Holford, Westonbirt, and 
Mr. Norman Davis, Framfield, Sussex—the 
former composed of the choicest Orchids, 
and not a few unique examples ; the latter of 
Chrysanthemums. The plants and flowers 
in these groups showed the highest cultural 
skill with a masterly hand in the matter of 
staging. We believe we are correct in say¬ 
ing that in the Orchid line nothing so flue 
has ever been shown at this season of the 
year. In each case a gold medal was awarded, 
the • Lindley Medal" for culture being added 
in the case of the Orchids. Some of the more 
prominent among the Orchids were Vanda 
coerulea, a fine colony of this giving a rare 
picture of colour, Dendrobium Pluelanop- 
eis, Vanda Kimballiana, better than when 
seen in its native wilds; Cypripedium in- 
eigne Sanderte, Cattleya labiata gloriosa, 
C. fulvescens, Odontoglossums, Phoeianopsis, 
and others, combining to provide a rare 
feast of beauty and unique colouring. In 
the group of Chrysanthemums many fine 
flowers were seen, not a few of the varieties 
having been raised by Mr. N. Davis him¬ 
self. We take Mrs. J. Hvgate, pure white ; 
Chas. Jones, rich yellow ; Algernon Davis, 
golden-yellow ; Mrs. Norman Davis, white ; 
and Felton’s Favourite—the last ivory-white, 
with a very crisp petal in a flower of Money¬ 
maker type. In this instance we were as 
much struck with the artistic arrangement as 
with the magnificent blossoms. Mr. H. J. 
Jones, Lewisham,, also showed Chrysanthe¬ 
mums in very fine form, some of the best 
varieties being Mi’s. W. Knox, soft yellow ; 
H. J. Jones, 1908, yellow; and Jumbo, 
bronze. The Messrs. T. Rochford and Co., 
Ltd., Broxbourne, had a fine group of Crotons, 
the plants being of a useful table size, richly 
coloured, for the most part, and well grown. 
Davallias, in some sixty-five species and varie¬ 
ties, from Messrs. H. B. May and Sons, Ed¬ 
monton, formed quite a feature, being the 
only Fern group staged at this meeting. 
Some big examples were noted in the group, 
and the perfect condition of the plants was 
apparent. Excellent examples of pot-grown 
Carnations and hybrid Veronicas were also 
seen. The winter-flowering Begonias from 
Messrs. Jas. Veitch and Sons, Ltd., Chelsea, 
w’ere well shown, such varieties as B. Agatha, 
B. A. compacta, both with pink flowers, B. 
Mrs. Heal, and others, making a brave show. 
The Messrs. Veitch in another direction had 
many kinds of evergreens, Conifers, and the 
like, not a few of these being of the low- 
growing type, suited to winter bedding and 
rockwork. The exhibit of Zonal Pelar¬ 
goniums from Messrs. Cannell and Sons, 
Swanley. attracted a good deal of attention, 
the handsome sprays, arranged into well- 
formed bunches, displaying these invaluable 
winter flowers to perfection. The Messrs. 
Cutbush find Sons, Highgate, had a very 
good exhibit of retarded plants, as Lily of the 
Valle\ r , Azalea mollis vara., Lilium longi 
florum, and L. speciosum in variety, Spiraeas, 
etc. The firm had many well-bloomed plants 
of soft-wooded Heaths. The finest lot of the 
new American Carnations was staged by 
Mr. G. Lange, Hampton, who.se collection 
contained Winsor. new' pink ; Rose-pink En¬ 
chantress, very fine; White Perfection, and 
Beacon, in perfect condition. The vases of 
Fair Maid and Enchantress were also excel¬ 
lent. Mr. Frank Brazier, Caterham, showed 
Michaelmas Daisies in variety with early 
Chrysanthemums, etc. 

Mr. S. Mortimer, Farnham, had some good 
Tree-Carnations, the blooms not so good 
gene.rally as we have seen from this well- 
known exhibitor. Mr> Spink, of lWaltham- 

Digitized t GO, -glC 


stow, staged Chrysanthemums, as did also 
Mr. Godfrey, of Exmouth, Devon. Messrs. 
Barr and Sons and Mr. G. Reuthe had a few 
seasonable hardy flowers. Messrs. Bull and 
Sons staged stove plants in variety, while 
Messrs. Peed and Sons, West Norwood, had a 
large number of plants in‘flower of Begonia 
Gloire de Lorraine and Turnford Hall. Mr. 
Geo. Paul, Cheshunt, and Mr. A. F. Dutton, 
Iver, exhibited pot grown examples of the 
new'est American Carnations, as Beacon, 
Winsor, Aristocrat, etc. Berry - hearing 
plants from Mr. L. It. Russell, Richmond, 
were in good force, and suggestive of the 
winter’s approach, Hollies, Crataegus, Aucu- 
has, Skimmias, and Pernettyas being the 
chief. Mr. T. Jaunoch, Dersinghani, Nor¬ 
folk, sent a batch of Cyclamens—(b persicum 
fimbriatum giganteum the result of cross¬ 
ing the Papilio and giganteum strains dur¬ 
ing four years. 

Exhibitors of Orchids, apart from the 
above, included Messrs. Cypher and Sons, 
Cheltenham; Messrs. Veitch and Sons; 
Charlesworth and Co., Bradford ; II. Low 
and Co., Enfield, who were also exhibitors of 
Carnations, Apples, and Cyclamens ; Messrs. 
Armstrong and Brown, Tunbridge Wells ; 
and Mr. Jeremiah Col man, Gatton Park. 

The exhibits before the fruit and vegetable 
committee, while not numerous, were by no 
means unimportant. The collection of Pears 
from Messrs. Geo. Bunyard and Co., Maid¬ 
stone, was very fine, many kinds being well 
shown. Of these we noted Seekle, Beurre 
Hardy, Beurre Superfin, and Belle Julie 
among the large number staged. Ailsa Craig 
Onions, from Mr. R. H. Ling, Berkhamp- 
stead, were excellent. The collection of Pota¬ 
toes from Mr. R. W. Green, Wisbech, was a 
highly meritorious one, the produce being 
particularly fine and well displayed. An ex¬ 
cellent display of Melons for so late in the 
season came from a lady gardener—Miss 
C. M. Dixon, Elmcroft Nurseries, Wester- 
gate, Chichester. Some fourteen fruits were 
staged, and these, for size and finish, at the 
end of October, left little to be desired. 

A complete list of medals and other awards 
will be found in our advertising columns. 

LAW AND CUSTOM. 

Right to remove plants.—Can a tenant who has 
planted a large number of shrubs, Roses, Ferns, and 
herbaceous plants during his tenancy, remove all or 
any of them before the termination of his tenancy?— 
Inquirer. 

[The occupier of a private garden may not 
remove any plants, neither can he claim com¬ 
pensation for them. This may seem very 
hard, hut it is the law. Usually a landlord 
allows an outgoing tenant to take some of 
the plants away, and you should ask your 
landlord to extend the same courtesy to you, 
but he may refuse if he chooses.] 

Employment of gardeners (Suffolk).—{ 1) 
It has been held that a gardener engaged 
under the conditions you name is entitled to 
one month’s notice ; and, so far as occupancy 
of a cottage is concerned, that depends upon 
the agreement, but generally no notice what¬ 
ever is required for that, provided proper 
allowance in lieu thereof is made in the way 
of extra money wages. Failing that, an 
action for damages would lie. (2) The gar¬ 
dener is not entitled to hold a public auction 
upon premises within your private grounds : 
but to prevent him from so doing you would 
have to obtain an injunction—and it would be 
better to warn him and the auctioneer that 
they and all persons they bring with them will 
be treated as trespassers. He surely might 
remove his goods for sale elsewhere.— 
Barrister. _ 

BIRDS. 

Birds dying (Lady B .).—The birds died of 
inflammation of the lungs, the reason being, 
probably, that they had not been properly 
acclimatised before you bought them, and so 
required more care in housing than the birds 
you have had on hand longer. Your best 
plan is to separate the recently acquired birds 
from the others, and house in box cages in a 
warm apartment until mild weather comes 
next spring. Keep any ailing bird extra 
warm, and give some ood-liver-oil cage-bird 
food. See that the cages are hung in a plea¬ 
sant situation, not too high up, and see, also. 


that such cages are not hung in the draught. 
Give to such birds an occasional feed of the 
cod-liver-oil food, and whenever damp or cold 
weather is encountered, give a little Hemp 
seed. Give occasionally a little sweet Apple 
instead of greenstuff. For your other birds 
your method of feeding and treatment cannot 
be improved upon, but take pains to see that 
the sand used upon the floor of cage is quite 
dry.—J. T. Bird. 

Lovebirds with long beaks (Cornwall).—A 
piece of lump sugar fixed firmly between the wires of 
the cage will help to keep the beak from becoming 
overgrown, and a piece of cuttlefish hone, procurable 
at any birdshop, also helps towards the same end. The 
beak may be filed a little now and then with a fine 
file should sugar and cuttlefish hone not keep it 
within bounds, nut file very carefully. The claws, 
if too long, may he cut back with strong scissors, 
taking care not to cut too far back. Do not let the 
birds hang in the draught. Give them a little, 
sound, ripe fruit occasionally—a small piece of Apple, 
fur Instance.— J. T. Bird. 

POULTRY. 

POULTRY AT TIIE DAIRY SHOW. 
The annual meeting of the British Dairy 
Farmers’ Association is the most important 
poultry event of the whole year. The total 
number of entries this year amounted to 2.957 
live birds and 122 table chickens, as well as 
2,663 pigeons. The chief feature of interest 
in the live poultry section was the wonderful 
display of Orpingtons and Wyandottes; of 
the former there were no fewer than 474, 
and of the latter 399. There are some who 
are repeatedly stating that the day of the 
Orpington is over, but the assertion cannot 
be regarded with much faith after such a re¬ 
markable exhibition of their popularity. A 
goodly number of the Orpingtons shown last 
week were strictly of an exhibition type, and, 
as such, of little service to the utility poul¬ 
try-keeper. The majority, however, had 
every appearance of possessing first-rate 
economic characteristics ; they were of a good 
shape, their egg organs were well developed, 
and they seemed to have every appearance of 
good table properties. Minorcas and Leg¬ 
horns were very numerous, and it is worthy 
of note that these two varieties are as popu¬ 
lar as ever, both with the fancier and utili¬ 
tarian. 

The Dorking classes were small, but con¬ 
tained some very fiqe specimens. The Sussex 
fowls, on the other hand, w r ere more numer¬ 
ous, but, taken as a whole, were extremely 
disappointing. Plymouth Rooks were well 
represented ; so were the many varieties of 
Games. Houdans, Faverolles, and Langshans 
were well up to the average of previous years. 
The ducks made an excellent show', while 
turkeys and geese were, if anything, rather 
superior to last year’s show. It is pleasing 
to observe that fanciers seem to be devoting 
more attention to the economic qualities, and 
are not breeding for extravagant points, as 
has so often been the case in the past. 

The table poultry section was a little dis¬ 
appointing. as many of the classes were but 
poorly filled, while a goodly proportion of the 
exhibits was a trifle coarse or else rather 
small. Many of the couples did not match at 
all well, the exhibitors seeming to overlook 
the importance of sending birds of a level 
size and quality, in a few cases one of the 
couple being considerably heavier than its 
companion. There was a good display of 
Dorkings, particularly in the cockerel class, 
though a few couples were rather coarse- 
fleshed. Indian Game pullets were extremely 
fine, possessing flesh of excellent colour and 
texture. There being no support for the 
eockerel class, it was cancelled. Surrey and 
Sussex fowls were poor, onlv one or two pairs 
being worthy a prize. The most interest 
ing classes were for eross-breds, the birds 
of a Dorking cross being simply superb. Many 
of the pairs were enormous, of a first rate 
colour and quality, and having every indica¬ 
tion of having been most excellently fattened. 

The ducks were inferior to those of the 
last few years, there being only four entries, 
and of these none were particularly good. In 
nearly all the birds, a greasiness was notice¬ 
able in the meat, while neither the colour 
nor manner of preparation was satisfactory. 
The class for goslings was much stronger, and, 
on the whole, the birds were satisfactory, pos¬ 
sessing fine coloured ftesh, without a trace of 

BfflVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 



401 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


November 9, 1997 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

Questions.— Queries and mincers are inserted in 
Gaiidkni sq free of charge if correspondents follow these, 
rules: All communications should be clcarlfiand concisely 
mitten on one side of the paper only, and addressed to 
the Editor of Gardkki.no, 17, Furmval-street, llolborn , 
London, E.C. Letters on business should be sent to the 
PniiMHHKR. The name and address of the sender are. 
required in addition to any designation he may desire to 
he. used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, 
each should be. on a separate piece of paper, and not more 
than three queries should be sent at a time. Correspon¬ 
dents should bear in mind that, as Gardening has to be 
sent to press some time in advance of date, queries cannot 
always be replied to in the issue immediately following 
the receipt of their communication. IfV do not reply to 
queries by post. 

Naming fruit. —Readers who desire our help in 
-naming fruit should bear in mind that several speriinens 
in different stages of colour and size of the same kind 
greatly assist in its determination. We have received from 
several correspondents single specimens of fruits for 
naming, these in many cases being unripe and other¬ 
wise poor. The differences between varieties of fruits are 
in many cases so trifling that it is necessary that three 
specimens of each kind should be sent. We can undertake 
t» name only four varieties at a time, and these only when 
the above directions are observed. 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

Cosmos bipinnatus (•/. and S. Watts ).—This is 
the name of the plant a specimen of which you send. 
It is n Mexican plant allied to the Dahlia* It is a 
tender annual, and is best raised by sowing the seeds 
in a heated frame in February or March and trans¬ 
planting in May into good rich soil with a warm ex¬ 
posure. It flowers from August to October, and Is 
useful for grouping with bold and graceful annuals. 
We do not reply to queries by post. 

Violets failing to open {Miss L. Relton).—Qt the 
kind of soil in which the Violets are growing you 
give us no information, neither do you tell us how 
long the plants have been in the position they now 
are. We may tell you that only the best growth and 
the finest blooms are to be obtained by treating 
these plants as annuals. It is just possible that, as 
you say your garden is shaded, the crowns are not 
sufficiently ripened to bring the flowers to perfection. 
The plants, too, are probably too thick and matted 
together. 

Treatment of Hoya (A\ Y. Judging from 
the leaves you send us, the plant appears to have 
been overwatered. We should advise you to let it 
get quite dry at the root, then out it back con¬ 
siderably, and place it in u warm, moist temperature, 
giving it very little water at the root. It may then 
start afresh, when any of the old sour soil should 
be removed from the roots and the plant repotted 
into turfy loarn or pent, with some finely-broken 
crocks or old mortar added, also some very coarse 
silver sand. 

Weed In lawn (Chelford, Cheshire ).—You cannot 
use a weed killer on a lawn. The only thing you can 
do is to dig out the weed and then top-dress the lawn 
with some good soil mixed with rotten manure and 
wood-ashes. If the weed has overrun the lawn, then 
the only thing you can do is to have it thoroughly 
dug up and, if need be, drained, adding a good dress¬ 
ing of rotten manure. While the digging is being 
done, see to it that all the weeds are carefully picked 
out. Then relay with good turf, and if this cannot he 
done, then sow it down with the best lawn Grass-seed 
next April. 

TREES AND SHRUBS. 

Desfontainea spinosa (II. Bard).—This is evi¬ 
dently the plant to which you refer. It comes from 
Chili, has foliage very much like that of the Holly, 
and handsome flowers in the form of a tube of 
bright scarlet tipped with yellow. In favoured 
gardens along the southern coast of England and in 
other mild parts it grows and flowers in the open 
air. hut where its culture is attempted only a few 
miles from I lie sea air it ceases to thrive, and is. 
therefore, only of value in favoured places. 

Cutting back Lilac trees (C. Pullrin ).—You 
should have done this immediately after the bloom¬ 
ing last spring; if you do it now you will sacrifice 
the flowering for next spring, and. indeed, in any 
case, if you prune to any extent you must he pre- I 
pared for a sacrifice in this way in some degree. It 
is too late for the plant to make fresh growth, and 
the most you can do is to take out all thin and poor 
shoots, and allow the plants to remain for the pre¬ 
sent. Of course, if you do not mind a partial sacri¬ 
fice, tiie way would be to cut hard back in February 
or quite early in March next. Proceed cautiously, as 
It is by no meajis certain, no matter how early the 
priming is done or how favourable the season for 
growth subsequently, that your hushes will make 
flowering wood for the year after. The error has' 
been through n series of past years, when a slight 
pruning of the younger wood or even a pinching of 
the shoots that Inclined most to elongate would have 
kept, the plants to bush form. You ought also to 
clear away all the suckers. 

FRUIT. 

Dessert Apples for heavy soil O'. A ’inion).— 
We do not approve of your selection of dessert 
Apples for your or any other soil. You have too many 
first earlies, such as Mr. Gladstone, Beauty of Bath, 
Irish Peach, Early Red Joannetting, and Quarren- 
den, as these are mostly finished by the end ot 
September. American Mother and Hykohouse Russet 
are very uncertain growers and croppers. We re¬ 
commend. to ripen in the order named: Irish l’each. 
Miller’s Seedling, Worcester Pcarmain. James Grieve. 
Alllngton Pippin. Scarlet Nonpareil, Cox’s Orange 
Pippin, Fearn’s Pippin, Barmu k Beauty, Lord Hind 
lip. Clavpatf* Pearmain. .juja! Htnrmer Pifpin. All 
these should be huddcdT on the Parad^A wid be 


planted rather shallow than deep, keeping them on 
slightly elevated mounds or ridges. Use plenty of 
wood ashes and old mortar refuse with the soil when 
planting. 

Slitting the bark of fruit-trees (G. IF.). —The 

practice of slitting or making longitudinal incisions 
in the bark of the stems of fruit-trees is resorted to 
when there is an obstruction to the sap flow, the 
necessity for which becomes apparent when the stock 
fails to increase in circumference in the same ratio 
as the scion or tree which is dependent on it. If not 
afforded relief (by making incisions in the bark 
from the point where budding or grafting was 
effected down to the roots—one or two generally 
sufficing, obstinate cases excepted—when three and 
four are needed) the stock stops swelling, and the 
tree either becomes stunted or is short-lived. Slitting 
of the bark, therefore, acts as a kind of safety-valve, 
and we have witnessed cases where trees which 
would otherwise soon have become useless, have by 
its means had their lives prolonged as a result of 
the stocks or stems being enabled to swell and keep 
pace with the scion. Bark-slitting becomes neces¬ 
sary in the case of most kinds of fruit-trees when 
the conditions are as stated above. 

Pruning Vines (Amateur ).—As soon as the major 
portion of the foliage has fallen the pruning should 
he done, as this reduces the chances of bleeding 
when the Yines start into growth in the spring. Sup¬ 
posing the Yines are trained on single rods up the 
roof, all side shoots or laterals should he cut back to 
one or two good buds. Sometimes the first bud 
nearest the main rod is small; if so, cut to the next 
bud, which, as a rule, is large and good and produces 
the finest hunches. If the side shoots have been too 
crowded, some of the weaker and worst placed may 
be cut clean away; l foot to 18 inches apart is a nice 
distance for the spurs or side shoots. If the Yines 
are young, the leading shoot forming the main rod 
must be cut back according to the strength of the 
rod. When the growth is weak it will strengthen the 
Yine if only about a foot of young wood is left ; but 
if strong, about 3 feet may remain, always cutting 
back to a bold, well-placed bud. When there are 
several rods attached to oue Yine, each one should 
be 3 feet apart and treated as described above. You 
ought to procure a copy of “ Yines and Yine Cul¬ 
ture” (Barron), in which you will find illustrations 
showing the mode of pruning. 

Forming new Vine borders (Bridport ).—The 
drainage of Vine borders is of paramount importance, 
hut as regards this no rule can be laid down. Where 
the site is clay or approaching to it, concrete is 
needed to ensure an escape from tlie evils of water 
rising into the border, and to prevent the roots pene¬ 
trating into the had subsoil. In cold, low-lying dis¬ 
tricts the depth of outside border should not exceed 
2^ feet at hack, and, gradually diminishing towards 
the front, should not be deeper than 2 feet at that 
point.. After the natural soil has been removed, and 
previous to laying on the concrete, a drain should be 
carried along tin: front of the intended border at 
some G inches below the general level. This should 
have an outlet of a safe and reliable character, and 
should receive a good covering of stones or bricks. 
Nine inches of brickbats should also be laid upon the 
surface of the concrete, which should bo S inches 
thick, and have a good fail from the wall of the 
vinery to the main drain already referred to. Should 
there he any probability of the roots finding their 
way into any uncongenial quarters, walls 4J inches 
thick should he erected as a preventive. Where the 
subsoil is sand or gravel the necessity for artificial 
drainage is reduced to a minimum. For early forcing 
an inside border is the best, as then the roots are 
more on an equality with the foliage as regards 
temperature. The best compost is holding loam, 
adding mortar rubble and bones or bone-meal. 
Turves, Grass-side downwards, should be placed over 
the drainage to prevent the soil choking it. Firm 
borders, made piecemeal, keep the roots nt home, 
and each new addition being sweet and fresh increases 
the vigour and fruitfulness of the Vines just at the 
time when they stand most in need of it. You 
should get. a copy of “ Vines and Vine Culture,” 
Barron, price 6s. Gd., post free, from 13, Sutton 
Court-road, Chiswick, London, W. 

Lifting a Vine (C. M. IF.). -It being a difficult 
matter to lift Vines in the same manlier as other 
fruit-trees— i.e., with a hall of soil attached to the 
roots—you had better wait until your Vine has shed 
its leaves before you move it. Had it been simply a 
case of root-lifting and laying them out again in a 
new border in the same house, we should unhesi¬ 
tatingly have recommended you to take the matter in 
hand at once, because in this ease the foliage would 
have proved invaluable by aiding the Vine to re-es¬ 
tablish itself the more quickly; but, as you evidently 
are wishful to transfer the Vine elsewhere, you had 
better postpone the moving as advised above. In the 
meantime get the compost, etc., ready for making the 
new border with, so that no delay shall occur once 
the lifting of the Yine is accomplished, for the shorter 
the interval between the lifting and replanting the 
better for its future well being. Perform the lifting 
carefully, preserving all the main and fibrous roots ns 
far as ‘possible, keeping them covered with damp 
Moss and mats to prevent thorn becoming dry, and 
sprinkle them frequently with water. In regard to 
the spare growths or laterals, you may, if the leaves 
are still green, cut them back half way, which will 
have the effect of strengthening the base buds and 
help to ripen up the wood. You can then complete 
the pruning by cutting back to two buds so soon as 
the leaves turn yellow. On the other band, should 
the foli age he in the last-named condition at the pre¬ 
sent time, you may prune at once, and lift and 
transfer the Yine to other quarters without further 
delay, provided, of course, as has been already men¬ 
tioned. vow are prepared with the proper and neees- 
>arv amount of materials for doing so. Finally, unless 
vou are in a position to carry out the work in a 
prompt and expeditious manner, we do not advise you 
to undertake it, and in that event it would he better 
to plant a new Yine next spring instead. 


VEGETABLES. 

Tomatoes failing (M. E. G .).—Seeing a profes¬ 
sional gardener, who has, judging from your letter, 
seen the plants, is not able to assign any reason for 
the failure, it is very difficult for us to say what is 
the cause. One mistake you make is keeping the 
plants much too hot, thus drawing them up weakly. 
You should shift the plants from the 3-inch pots into 
7-inch pots, and then transfer them to the large ones 
you speak of. The soil in the large pots gets sour 
before the roots of the small plants you use have 
begun to run in it, root action is checked, and the 
plants fail. 

Pickling Red Cabbage (John Bull).—Take off 
the outside decayed leaves of a nice Red Cabbage, 
cut it in quarters, remove the stalks, and cut it 
across in very thin slices. Lay these on a dish, and 
strew- them plentifully with salt, covering them with 
another dish. Let them remain for twenty-four 
hours, turn into a colander to drain, and, if neces¬ 
sary, wipe lightly with a clean soft cloth; put them 
in a jar; boil vinegar with spices in the following pro¬ 
portion: To each quart add \ oz. of ginger, well 
bruised; 1 oz. of whole black Pepper, and, when liked, 
a little Cayenne, and when cold, pour it over the 
Cabbage. It will be fit for use in a week. If kept for 
a very long time the Cabbage is liable to get sou 
and to discolour. To be really nice and crisp, and of 
a good red colour, it should be eaten almost imme¬ 
diately after it is made. A little bruised cochineal, 
boiled with the vinegar, adds much to the appear¬ 
ance of this pickle. Tie down with bladder, and keep 
in a dry place. 


SHORT REPLIES. 

F. M.— The largest Rhubarb we know is a variety 
called Stott's Monarch. Any nurseryman should be 

able to procure it for you.- Japonica.— Yes; you 

could grow Roses, Clematis, Pyrua japonica, and many 
other climbers. Such will be very useful, as they will 
keep up a succession of bloom to plants growing in 
more favourable positions. Kushford .—Prune Cle¬ 
matis Flaminula as you would Jaekmani—that is, 
in November—as it flowers on the young or summer 

shoots. Treat C. gravcolens in the same way.- 

IF. j\ Pin n. —Ask for Cox’s Grange Pippin, Foam's 
Pippin, Blenheim Orange. Ribston, Claygate, and 
Stunner. The above selection will carry you on to 
next March, and they can always be had from llrst- 

cla.Hs fruiterers in Covent Garden Market.- John 

Reed .—Any horticultural aundriesman could get you 
the caustic alkali solution about which you inquire. 
Why not make it yourself? We have given the 
recipe frequently in our pages. We do not reply to 

queries by post. See our rules to correspondents.- 

(}. G.— 1, See reply to your query re Gentiana verna 
in our issue of November 2nd, p. 479. 2, The best 
tree for the position you refer to would be one of the 

Crabs or a Weeping Ash.- Montague B. Portman.— 

Our rules as to the naming of fruit appear in every 
issue of the journal under the heading of “Corre¬ 
spondence.” You will find the notice in the issue of 

November 2nd. p. 479.- J. R. — See reply to 

” Anxious,” re " Workmen's Compensation Act,” in 

our issue of November 2nd, p. 479.- S. A. Bennett. 

—See reply to “ B. Spragge," rc “ Pears cracked,” in 

our issue of October 5tli, p. 41f>.- C. II. Horsnell.— 

Any nurseryman who makes a specialty of hardy 

plants could supply the double Gypsophila.- 

(}. H. S.-Wc know of no books dealing with electri¬ 
city in relation to plant life. Experiments are now 
being conducted in the Royal Botanic Gardens, and. 

no doubt, a report will be forthcoming.- R. Denning. 

—Without seeing the garden and knowing something 
as to its size, shape, what the soil is, etc., it is im¬ 
possible for us to advise. You ought to consult 
someone in the neighbourhood, who can visit the 

garden and thus be able to advise you.- John F. 

Dillon .—Evidently the trouble is entirely due to the 
soil in which the trees are growing. When you 
planted the young trees did you prepare the ground 
for them or were holes simply dug out and the trees 
planted? You cannot expect fruit-trees to do well 
if no attention is paid to the planting of the trees 
anti the amelioration of the soil. Again, it may be 
that the trees are very thickly planted, crowding up, 
and thus injuring each other. 


NAMES OF PLANTS AND FRUITS. 


Names of plants. — Rushford.—W e cannot name 

without flowers.- A. G. It - 1. Ilex dipyrena: 2. 

Phillyrsvn media; 3, Osmanthus llicifoliui.; 4, Poly¬ 
gonum haidsehuanicum.- L* S. Ilall. —I, Yellow 

fruit, the Persimmon (Diospyroa Kaki); 2, Strawberry- 
like fruit (Cornua capitata (syn. Benthamin frngi- 

fera).-T. A. G .—Clematis lanuginosa var. We 

must have a good specimen of the flower. This needs 
pruning yearly, doing this in February, removing a 
portion of the old flowering wood h at tlie same 
t ime the whole of the weak and worn-out growths. 
Names of fruit.-C. S. P .-Pear Be urn? Hardy. 

- Miss E. Fulford. -Apple King of the Pippins.- 

A. J. S .— Apples: 1, Probably Hereford Pcarmain: 2, 

Might he Winter Strawberry.- F. S. Arnold — 

Pears- 1 Vicar of Winkfleld (stewing); 2, Beurre 

d’Anjou ; 3. Beurr6 Bose.- Kentia.- Pears: 7. Emile 

d’Hevst; 11, Probably Besi Gamier; 1G, Durondenu, 
verv’.small; 21, Beurre de Jonghe much out of char¬ 
acter - S. A. Bennett.— Please send when ripe.- 

James Kesbit. -Apple Keddlestone Pippin.—/Iona. 
—1 Diospyros virginiana (the Persimmon); 2, Dio- 

spvros Kaki.- W. II- Apples: 1, Lord Derby; 2, 

Ecklinville Seedling; 3 and 4. Not recognised. 

Catalogues received - Amos Perry. Enflclil. 
iddlesex - Abridged Catalogue of Trees and Shrubs 
-F.C. Hcincmarin. Erfurt, Germany.—Special Trad< 

ier of Xoreities for 1908. -W. Wells and Co., Ltd., 

erst ham. Surrey. — Descriptive Catalogue of Chrys- 
th,mums --Wilhelm Pfitzer, Stuttgart.-Lint of 
Bulbi, itc. : I I IhlftlC AT 



GARDENING- ILLUSTRATED 


No. 1,497.— 

Vol. XXIX. 

Founded by W. Robinson , 

Author of “ The English Flower Garden." XOVEMBER 16, 1907 






INDEX. 





Aclmidia arguta 

593 

Chrysanthemums 

49 i 

Gladioli for forcing 

497 

Pampas Grass plumes, 


Plums cracking .. .. 506 

Salvia Horminum 

506 

Almond-tree fruiting .. 

506 

Chrysanthomums-a few 


Grape-room, the 

.>04 

cutting. 

506 

Potatoes Duchess of 

Sencoio Clivoruiu 

495 

Apple Coronation 

;»oi 

new varieties .. 

493 

Grains failing .. 

mm; 

Passion-flower failing.. 

506 

Albany and Factor .. 502 

Shrubs and plants, fra- 


Apples cracking .. 

not. 

Chrysanth em unis, 


Indoor plants 

49/ 

Peaches in cold-houses 

502 

Potatoes, seed .. .. 502 

grant . 

503 

Hooks . 

5U5 

market. 

498 

Lawn, fungus on 

506 

Peaches, outdoor stau- 


Poultry.505 

Shrubs, prupaguting .. 

503 

Borders in fruit-houses, 


Conservatory 

>04 

Lawn, tennis, making a 

508 

dard . 

501 

Privet-hedge, cutting 

Soil, improving clay .. 

506 

renovating 

MM 

CraUugus Pyraoantha 


Lilium aurutum platy- 


Pears, gathering and 


back .508 

Tomatoes, late .. 

504 

Bulbs in the house 

b04 

pruning. 

503 

phyllum. 

490 

ripening late .. 

502 

Rhododendron Ixidy 

Tomatoes, using green.. 

506 

C&massia (tyuaniaah) .. 


Flowers iti the house .. 

499 

Magnolia gmmliflora, 


Pelargoniums in winter. 


Alico Fitzwilliam .. ;>0ti 

Trees and shrubs 

503 

Campanulas us indoor 


Fruit garden 

594 

pruning . 

506 

keeping . 

506 

Room and window .. 499 

United Horticultural 


plauta 

499 

Fruit show, notes from 


Medlar jelly 

oOi 

Pines . 

502 

Rose Gloiro des Roso- 

Benefit and Provident 


Carnation Y\ insor 

498 

the . 

501 

Mohs - litter manure 


Plant-house, warm 

o'M 

manes.>90 

Society. 

Vegetable garden 

505 

Catlleya Bowringiana.. 

499 

Fruit, storing 

502 

value of. 

5U6 

Plants and flowers 

495 

Rose, pink, for grouping .>00 

.504 

Chrysanthemum Orange 


Garden diary, extracts 


Myrtle, the 

497 

Plants, climbing, for 


Roses at exhibitions .. .>00 

Vegetables 

592 

Pet, early-flowering 


from a . 

594 

orchids . 

499 

stove fernery .. 

197 

Roses, Christmas .. 495 

Weeks work, the 


Pompon. 

498 

Garden in the house, 


Outdoor garden .. 

504 

Plants, hardy, rabbits 


ltoses raised from cut- 

coming. 

504 

Chrysanthemum Rosie, 


the . 


Outdoor plants .. 

495 

and . 

506 

tings .M)) 

Window-boxes, what fo 


early-flowering 

498 

Garden work 

501 

Parrotia persica.. 

5UJ 

Plants, new hardy 

503 

Roses, Tea. in October 500 

grow in. 

596 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS, 

OUTDOOR PLANTS. 

CHRISTMAS ROSES. 

The Christmas Rose (Helleborus nigcr) is, 
without doubt, the most prized of alL our 
winter - flowering hardy plants. Unfortu¬ 
nately, however, really handsome tufts of 
these plants art* by no means an every-day | 
occurrence in our gardens —unless it be in 
some of the midland and west-midland couu- 
tics, where the plants, particularly when 
growing o-u a rather strong and deep loamy 
soil, overl ving limestone, appear to take more 
kindly to their surroundings than is the ease 
in those districts where much lighter soils 
obtain. In the matter of soils, over-dryness 
brought about by the amount of sand in the 
soil and excessive moisture in greasy, tena¬ 
cious clay soils that do not admit of a free 
passage of water, are things to be avoided. 

Not a few gardeners to day, while desirous 
of doing their best for the plants in their 
keeping, err through lack of knowledge ; 
others add to their lack of knowledge that 
stolid indifference which, if truth must be 
told, must be held responsible for many 
failures. Others, again, fail to satisfactorily 
grow these precious winter-flowering plants 
because of a rule-of-thumb method of plant¬ 
ing or replanting them that, in many in¬ 
stances, but results in weakened growth and 
debilitated plants generally. The rule-of- 
thumb method to which I refer is that of 
planting or transplanting everything in the 
hardy plant line when so many inches of new 
growth have been made in the spring, and. 
so far as the Christmas Ruse is concerned, 
nothing is more distinctly opposed to success 
than this interference at the time when the 
new leaves are appearing. Another method, 
and one directly responsible for the death or 
rapid decline of large numbers of plants each 
year, is the somewhat prevalent system of 
lifting the flowering clumps from the borders, 
placing them in artificial heat to provide 
blossoms at a dull period of the year, and, 
when this is done, returning the plants to 
their pla<-es. There is no surer wav. and cer¬ 
tainly no more rapid way of depleting our 
gardens of the best of these plants, and for 
this reason alone the system should be dis¬ 
couraged by every possible means; the more 
so since a supply of the welcome flowers of 
these plants may be forthcoming by other 
methods of cultivation uud by growing the 
most suitable kinds. 

By growing three or four of the best sorts 
it. is possible to secure the flowers of the 
Christmas Rose from mid-November to mid- 
February, or, at least, to the enfl of January, 
without the least troubl^-Where these tilings 
are in demand for the too] rdfcsei v^»)K>or 


the cold, hardy plant-house which is now in 
vogue, the plants should he specially grown 
in pans, pots, or small tubs for the purpose, 
and prepared a year in advance by growing , 
and plunging the receptacles containing them 
to their full depth in the open in a sheltered , 
place. If this were done, little or no harm 
would ensue when the plants were taken 
under glass to flower. It is another matter 
altogether when the plants are dug up at 
flowering time and given artificial heat to 
open their flowers. This lifting and the sub¬ 
sequent. treatment of the plants have been 
the undoing of not a few fine specimens, and 
if there is one thing more fatal than another 
to these things it is lifting and replanting 
large examples intact. With roots cut and 
mutilated by the lifting they remain a long 
time before producing new fibres on the main 
roots, and frequently these latter perish out¬ 
right, thus causing the plant to collapse. 
Where large plants are being moved, division 
of the clumps should always follow. Indeed, 
one of the best known amateur gardeners of 
a quarter of a century ago who grew these 
plants to perfection in his north-country gar¬ 
den made a point of dividing his plants to a 
single crown, or, at most, two crowns, assert¬ 
ing that only in this way was it possible to 
I secure the best results. This same gentle¬ 
man, knowing the deep-rooting characteristics 
of the plants, prepared beds of soil 4 feet in 
depth, so that his success was well merited. 
It is not possible, however, for everyone who 
grows this section of the Hellebore family to , 
provide so great, a depth of soil, but the fact ] 
| is worth remembering, and the best possible ■ 
should be done for so valuable a subject, j 
Many years ago, in a Sydenham Hill garden, 
where much of the garden soil was the clay 
output of the Tenge tunnel, from a depth of 
150 feet or more, the whole of the garden 
flower-beds had to be specially prepared, one- 
third only of the greasy tunnel clay being 
retained iu the beds. In the made-up beds of 
leaf-mould, Banstead loam, and road grit 
the Christmas Roses did splendidly, and 
dozens of fine masses, 3 feet, in diameter, 
gave a great wealth of blossoms all through 
the winter season. This garden was at a 
! considerable elevation, an item of no mean 
! importance to these plants, so far as my ex- 
, pericnce goes. On the other hand, in low- 
i lying situations, and where town fogs arc 
i prevalent, the plants are frequently attacked 
i by the Hellebore loaf-mould (Ramularia 
Hellebori), or the leaf spot (Septoria Helle- 
i bori), and for which early summer syring¬ 
ing with sulphide of potassium is to l>e 
recommended. 

In those instances where it is desired to 
make of these Christmas Roses a feature, the 
1 soil should be prepared to a depth of 3 feet, 
i Where a greasy or tenacious water-holding 
j clay subsoil exists an additional depth of 
9 inches should bo provided for drainage, 
or, if this is impossible, by reason of the sur¬ 
roundings, the surface might be raised to 


meet the case. In those districts where much 
sand or gravel is found, the incorporating of 
clay or heavy loam with the soil will be of 
much service, while the addition of a clay 
lining at 3 feet deep will keep the moisture 
from escaping. In the matter of soil for the 
plants, to a soil that will grow the Hybrid Tea 
Rose to perfection I would add a free addi¬ 
tion of leaf-mould and grit, with bone-meal. 

The time of planting.— This I regard as 
one of the most important items in connec¬ 
tion with these plants, and there is no season 
like the early autumn for undertaking such 
work. It is during the early autumn months 
that the new main roots issue from the under¬ 
side of the shortly-rliizomatous root-stock, 
and in good and deep soil these roots will 
1 descend to a depth of 3 feet or 4 feet. These 
main roots are by no means numerous, and 
the aim of early autumn planting is to pro 
! serve «uch roots intact. Indeed, for prefer 
I dice, it were better that the planting bo 
taken in hand and completed prior to these 
'■ roots appearing, and only in that way does 
the plant receive the fullest benefit such roots 
impart. During the autumn mouths these 
roots continue to appear, and, when issued, 

I greater care is necessary when handling the 
I plants. I consider the months of September 
and October to be the best, season for plant¬ 
ing, but in the more holding class of soils 
| the work can be done over a longer period 
! without appreciable harm. When the plant 
ing is done at. other seasons of the year—the 
spring time, for example—the plants suffer 
considerably, and arc a long while before 
they recover. The reason, to those who study 
the plants, is quite clear, os the two sets of 
roots produced by the plants in each year 
appear at regular periods only. Did these 
Hellebores produce their root fibres profus *lv 
for months in succession, it would be possible 
and practicable to transplant them at almost 
any time, but it is not so. and the sooner the 
fact is grasped the better. The sot lion of the 
Helleborus family to which these remarks 
apply is frequently referred to ns “impati nt 
of disturbance,” and the plants arc “im¬ 
patient” when disturbed at a wrong time. 
Treated, however, as 1 have endeavoured to 
describe, the plants are far more amenable 
to general cultivation than is commonly sup¬ 
posed, and no hardv-flowering subject is 
more worthy of the attention calculated to 
make it a complete success. 

The varieties of Helleborus nig-r arc not 
numerous, and those most worthy of at I ca¬ 
tion are : H. n. altifoliuf. flowering in No¬ 
vember and December; H. n. major, the 
true Christmas Rose;’ and H. if. St. Brigid, 
also known as H. n. angustifolius, which 
flowers throughout January, and even later. 

, H. n. Mme. Fourcade and H. n. Apple Blos¬ 
som are distinct, varieties, and desirable 
among others id * nbyllctl|je< tinn of thc.-o 

| pl 3^E#&TY OF ILLINQI^AJ 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 
























496 


GARDENING ILLUtiTTUTED. 


November 16, 1907 



tiou affords an excellent idea of the upper 
portion of the spike of this valuable species, 
which, in the wild state, has its home among 
the Blue Mountains of Oregon. This is not 
merely a useful plant for the border ; it is 
valuable by reason of its great vigour and the 
exquisite delicacy of its pale blue, starry, and 
spreading blossoms. The handsome spikes 
spring from a glaucous tuft of Eremurus-like 
leaves, and attain to about 4 feet high when 
fully established. The species is perfectly 
hardy, and, by reason of its great beauty and 
cheapness, should be largely planted. 

C. esculent .*.— 1 This is the oldest of the 
cultivated species, and a plant of especial 
value for the garden and for naturalising. 
The species has its home in the meadows 
and marshes of North-Western America, and 
we emphasise the fact because so few’ blue- 
flowered, bulbous-rooted plants are adapted 
for wet ground in this country. At the same 
time, I can state from long experience that 
the moisture-laden conditions of its home life 
are not absolutely essential to the plant under 
cultivation, and I have grown it exceedingly 
well in richly manured, if somewhat dry. soil. 
The plant is from 2 feet to 3 feet high, the 
rich, deep blue blossoms being each nearly 
2 inches across. For cutting the plant is also 
valuable, the unopened buds continuing to 
expand when placed in water. 

C. Fraseri is a smaller and later-flowering 
species from the States east of the Missis¬ 
sippi. The plant is rarely more than 1^ foot 
high, its pale blue flowers not more than 
1£ inch in diameter. Less effective generally, 
it is interesting where a collection of bulbous 
plants is grown, and for its late flowering. In 

C. Lkichtlim, a rare species from British 
Columbia, the handsome spikes of creamy 
blossoms reach to nearly 4 feet high. The 
plant is of vigorous growth, and quite distinct. 

C. L. alba.—A beautiful plant with glisten¬ 
ing, pure white blossoms, each inch across. 
The flower-scape reaches 3.} feet high, and as 
an effective hardy plant for the garden is 
much to be desired. A well established clump 
of this is unique in the early summer garden. 

C. L. ATRO-CCERuLEA.—A counterpart of 
the type, so far as habit of growth is con¬ 
cerned, but with flowers of a deep, intense 
blue ; undoubtedly a grand plant. 

In a genus where moisture-loving species 
are not infrequent, it is worthy of note that 
the last-named species—C. Leichtlini—is 
most frequently found growing on sandy 
ridges, or in dry ravines, a condition of things 
which it is not necessary to imitate to the 
letter when growing the plants in British 
gardens. In a deeply-worked, well-enriched 
soil the plants grow' vigorously enough, and 
I strongly commend them to the notice of 
Tenders. All the kinds named may be in¬ 
creased from seeds, and for gardening in 
Grass and the like should be raised in quan¬ 
tity with this object in view. 

E. H. Jenkins. 

NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Senecio Clivorum.— In the month of Sep¬ 
tember I saw this in about half-a-dozen 
places. In two gardens in Dorset it was 
beautiful. In both places the position was 
moist and the soil good. At one it was grow¬ 
ing on a small island in company with Boc- 
conia cordata, some white, tall-growing 
Phloxes, Funkias, and other things. Here it 
was from 3 feet to 4 feet high, having large 
corymbs of the brightest yellow flowers. At. 
the other place it hod as companions large 
bushes of Hydrangea paniculata and H. Hor- 
tensia. This Senecio comes from North 
China, and. when better known, will be more 
often s v cn in gardens.—J. C. F. 

Lilium aura turn platyphyllum—I enclose a 
photograph, which I think may interest some of your 
readers. It shows part of a bed of Lilium auratum 
platyphyllum and Hydrangea paniculata. From the 
catalogues, I see this Lily sometimes reaches the 
height of 6 feet or 7 feet. Those represented varied 
from 7 feet to 10 feet. The soil is heavy, cold clay, 
but this was dug out 2 feet deep and filled with 
garden-rubbish and peat. The bulbs have now been in 
three years without being touched, and each year they 
have done better. The best head this year held nine¬ 
teen flowers.—M. A. Hale, Prescot. (Sorry to say the 
photo is not clear enough for reproduction.—E d.J 

Index to Volume XXVIII.-The binding covers 
(price Is. Od. each, post free, la. 9d.) and Index (3d., 
post free, aid.) for Volume XXVIII. are now ready, 
and may be had of all newsagents, or ol the Pub¬ 
lisher, post free, 2s. fgr ttjp tW 

URBANA-uHAMPAIGN 


CAMASSIA (QUAMASH). 

A small and interesting group of bulbous 
plants belonging to the Liiy order, and that 
in their flowering come ’twixt the Daffodil 
and the May Tulips. The Camassias combine 
with a touch of rare- colour beauty a distinct¬ 
ness of form which renders them more or 
less unique in the flower border in spring. 
There is an entire absence of formality in the 
tall, graceful, and airy spikes, and one won¬ 
ders why such easily-grown and perfectly 
hardy subjects are not more often found in 


there is no need for this course when plant¬ 
ing the Camassias, and there are many spots 
in the garden—near the margin of the rock 
arden pool, isolated on the Grass, in slirub- 
ery border, and the like, where such things 
may be seen to advantage. It is, perhaps, in 
a moist situation, or where the natural soil is 
of grent depth and excellent quality, that 
these things attain their fullest development, 
and one cannot too strongly urge the free use 
of such positions for these plants. The 
coloured forms—the shades of blue, violet, 
and so forth are, 1 think, seen to best ad¬ 


Camassia Cussicki. From a photograph by Job. E. Tyler, Halbtead, E-:bsx. 


gardens generally, and in particular those 
gardens where good, hardy plants are re¬ 
garded in their true light. Once well planted, 
the clumps, if given room for development, 
may remain for several years without dis¬ 
turbance, and in this way grow into bold, 
effective masses. Too often, perhaps, does 
the exceptional merit of so good a plant as 
the Camussia remain unrecognised for a time, 
because of thnt follow-my-leader sort of prac¬ 
tice too frequently met with in gardens. 
Copying and imitating the ways of others are 
well enough in their ww*. and in thelcase of a 
fastidious subject fcerfejfly but 


vantage in a subdued light, and where the 
setting sun catches the spikes through bush 
or tree on higher ground the effect is singu¬ 
larly beautiful. The more common sorts, as 
C. esculenta, might well be freely grouped in 
moist, grassy spots, and in the approaches to 
the woodland and similar places. The bulbs 
should be planted during the early autumn 
months, and, bv reason of the early flowering 
of the plants, the earlier the planting is done, 
the better. A good depth for planting is 
about 6 inches below’ the surface. The follow¬ 
ing are all worthy of cultivation : — 

C. CUBSICKI.—The accompanying illustra- 








November 10, 1607 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


497 



INDOOR PLANTS. 

THE MYRTLE. 

The Myrtle is common as a shrub or low 
tree throughout the south of Europe, 
northern Africa, and western Asia, and is 
hardy in some parts of our own country. In 
all the Mediterranean region it occurs as 
underwood, variable in height, and quite as 
much in leaf, the most marked of these forms 
bearing distinctive names. Old plants form a 
spreading root-stock, or, more rarely, take on 
a standard form, when the stem is sometimes 
found of the size of a man’s leg; but, owing 
to the constant cutting of undergrowth, to 
forest fires, and flip browsing of goats, such a 


The following may sometimes be met with in 
collections : — 

Myrtus bullata. —A rigid-growing green¬ 
house shrub from New Zealand, with leaves 
reaching a length of 2 inches, and often 
strangely netted and crinkled. It grows 
10 feet to 15 feet high, hearing solitary flowers 
of a pale rosy colour, followed by black urn¬ 
shaped berries. 

Myrtus Gheken. —This is a handsome 
half-hardy shrub from the southern Andes, 
with dense, spreading habit, small leaves 
thickly set, and an abundance of white, frag¬ 
rant blossoms. 

Myrtus communis. —The common form of 
southern Europe, and of gardens. Its 
varieties include the Orange-leaved Myrtle j 


the W est Indies, growing 8 feet to 10 feet in 
height, and bearing thick, leathery leaves, 
that are nearly round, smooth, and shining, 
and white flowers coming early in the year. 

Myrtus Luma var. apiculata (syn. Eu¬ 
genia apiculata).— This beautiful shrub 
(here figured) reaches a height of from 3 feet 
to 5 feet, having sharply pointed leaves and 
fine flowers, larger than those of the common 
Myrtle, and borne in bunches of three or 
I more during early summer. 

Myrtus tomentosa.—A handsome shrub, 

| bearing ovate leaves of bright green above, 
but clothed beneath with white, silky hairs. 

| 1 he flowers, appearing in May or June, are 
| large, and pale rose in colour. China. 

Myrtus Ugni (syn. Eugenia Uoni).—T his 
half-hardy shrub, not unlike in 
appearance the wild Myrtle of 
Europe, grows some 6 feet to 
8 feet in height, Iks flowers are 
larger, with sometimes a rosy 
tinge, and its fruits, of a warm, 
reddish brown, when carried in 
profusion, are very handsome 
and strongly fragrant. In Chili, 
its native country, they are mucli 
used as food. It should be grown 
in rather heavier soil than the 
other kinds, and does well 
planted out in the greenhouse, 
being hardy only in the south¬ 
west of Britain. There is a 
variety with variegated leaves. 


Myrtus Luma var. apiculata (syn. Eugenia apiculata). From a photograph in the gardens at Fota, Cork. 


girth is uncommon. As a wild plant it grows 
best in moist and half shady bottoms, but 
does not bloom in such places so well as upon 
the open hill sides, where, even in the driest 
places, small-leaved forms bloom and fruit 
profusely, many birds of passage feeding upon 
the berries during their southern flight ir 
autumn. When distilled, the leaves and 
young shoots yield a fragrant oil. The 
Myrtle was first brought to this country at 
the close of the fifteenth century, and has 
been much grown in old gardens, in tubs, 
or upon walls, where, with slight protection, 
it passes the winter uninjured in mild and 
southern coast districts. For either of these 
uses it is a beautiful object, fine in flower, 
and the foliage useful when cut. It does well 
in any light, porous soiLJmt must be Jr eel y 
watered and syringed Ao keen dow* limp. 


a Spanish form from Andalusia, with large 
leaves; the Belgian Myrtle, a small-leaved 
form, with a variegated sub-variety; the 
double-flowered Myrtle, which we lately saw 
in bloom in the gardens at Gunnersbury 
House; the Italian Myrtle, a distinct variety, 
with several forms of variegation ; the Thyme¬ 
leaved Myrtle, with very small leaves, much 
used in wedding and other bouquets; the 
Roman Myrtle, also in several forms; the 
Rosemary-leaved Myrtle, with long narrow 
leaves on neat spikes, and small white flowers, 
coming later than most in autumn ; and M. e. 
tenuifolia, very distinct in its drooping habit. 
There are also a form with creeping or 
prostrate habit, one bearing white berries, 
and one in which the flowers are faintly 
tinged with rose. 

Myrtus fraqrans.— A stove shrub from 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Gladioli for forcing. —I shall be 
obliged if you will, through the medium 
of your paper, give some details for the 
treatment of these bulbs, where a cool- 
house only is available?—E. M. 

[From your letter it is not clear 
to what section of this family you 
are referring, and the group is 
a large and varied one. But few 
kinds will submit to actual forc¬ 
ing. As you appear to possess 
but a cool-house, we think the 
hardier sort6, many of which are 
among the early-flowering kinds, 
will be the most serviceable. 
These early-flowering sorts in¬ 
clude some of the most beautiful 
of this valuable race of plants, 
and, being dwarf in habit, and 
with 6mall bulbs, are well suited 
for cultivation in pots. These 
earlv-flowering kinds include that 
pure white form of G. Colvillci, 
known as The Bride, the bulbs 
of which are not much larger 
than a big Crocus bulb. For 
such as these the bulbs, or corms, 
should be set an inch deep in the 
soil, arranging some half-dozen 
bulbs in a pot 6 inches in dia¬ 
meter. It is now time that the 
bulbs were potted, and for a 
month at least the pots would 
be better if placed in a frame and 
plunged in ashes, Cocoa-nut-fibre, 
or leaves. The soil should be 
sandy loam, of good quality, and 
the pots must oe well drained. 
If the soil at potting time is 
fairly moist, no water will be re¬ 
quired, and the same treatment 
will be suitable till growth be¬ 
comes active, when more mois¬ 
ture must be given. A tempera¬ 
ture of 45 degs. to 50 degs. is suitable. If the 
above are not what you desire, you had better 
write again, giving fuller particulars.] 
Climbing plants for stove fernery —1 should 
be mueh obliged for the names of some plants, creep¬ 
ing and otherwise, which would do well and brighten 
up a fernery which has ribbed glass? There is stove 
heat. The greenhouse is about 12 feet by 8 feet by 
10 feet. Would Roses or Passion-flowers succeed?— 
Roxalara. 

[From the fact that you mention Roses and 
Passion-flowers, we conclude it is plants of a 
climbing, and not creeping, nature that you 
require. It is difficult to name any climbers 
likely to thrive and brighten up the house. 
Certainly Roses would not even live under 
such conditions, hut Passiflora princeps might 
do as a roof plants i Qissus discolor, too, 
with handsome purplish red leaves, marbled 
with whiti . is another likely subject ; and 


:ha 



4 OS 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


November 1G, 1907 


no are Hoya carnosa, Hoy a imperialis, and 
Stpphanotis floribunda. Ficus radicans 
variegata, with pure white markings, is a 
good wall plant for such a structure. Other 
bright flowered or foliage plants not of a 
climbing nature, which should flourish under 
the conditions named, are CEschynanthuses of 
sorts, Anthurium Andreanum, Anthurium 
Scherzerianum, Aloeasia Lowi, Costus 
igneus. Hoya bella, Marantas of sorts, 
Pellionia pulchra, Tillandsia zehrina, and 
Tradescantia zebrina.] 

Carnation Winsor. Ibis is one of the 
latest novelties among the American Carna¬ 
tions. Quite recently it received an “award 
of merit” from the Floral Committee of the 
Royal Horticultural Society. In stem and 
calyx there is much of the Mrs. Lawson cha¬ 
racter to be seen, though the plants, as far as 
our present limited experience of the variety 
goes, appear to possess a less bushy habit than 
tin* well-known type to which we have re¬ 
ferred. The newcomer, however, is distinct, 
an I the blossoms, which are of the palest 
rose pink, are of good size and fine form. 
The blossoms, too, while not. lacking fulness, 
are by no means overcrowded with petals, 
and we note with pleasure an entire absence in 
the centre of the flower of those small, inferior 
petals, the presence of which prevents tli 
ready expansion of the blooms.—E. J. 


CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

A FEW NEW VARIETIES. 

I\ visiting some of the leading growers of 
exhibition blooms. I have come across a few 
first rate new kinds that will probably be 
*ccn in London before the season is over. 
1 say probably, because, for some reason or 
other, more than one raiser, to iny know¬ 
ledge. does not care to exhibit, novelties be¬ 
fore what should he the leading Chrysanthe¬ 
mum committee—that is, the floral committee 
of the N.C.S. This is a pity ; but the fact re¬ 
mains that a considerable number of sorts 
which have received their award within re¬ 
cent years have turned out indifferently; 
whilst others, not so honoured, have become 
exceedingly popular. Instances of this 
are the two splendid varieties, far and away 
the best of last year—namely, Mrs. Norman 
Davis and Lady Talbot. 1 fancy those did 
not receive the National Chrysanthemum So¬ 
ciety's honours. 

W. H. Lever is an immense flower, of a 
er< amv-white colour. Its petals are long and 
wide, of a semi incurving formation, and of 
extra substance. The plant grows to a height 
of G ft., with abundant and healthy foliage. 
The blooms are best selected from crown 
buds. 

Martin Silrbcry.— It is yet early in the 
season of Chrysanthemums, but this new sort 
is so fine that I will be safe in predicting that 
no finer novelty will be seen this autumn. 
The colouring is crimson of a light shade, 
with gold reverse. The form is drooping, 
and the florets curl at the points; blooms 
large, full, deep, and striking in their rich¬ 
ness and good quality; plant about 5 feet 
high, with good foliage. It is best from the 
crown hud. It was raised in the Isle of 
Wight by the amateur after whom it is 
named. 

Mi/le. Jeanne de t.a Croi ee.—C olour, a 
sort, shell pink, with lighter reverse to the 
florets; a very pleasing and refined flower. 
The petals are numerous, of medium width, 
and very long, the bloom solid and fairly 
large. This, raised by M. Cal vat, grows 
about 3 feet high. 

Splendour. —This gained an award of 
merit at the R.H.K. meeting the other day. 
It i> certainly a well-built flower, with broad 
florets, of a curly formation, but the colours 
— red and gold—did not strike one as being 
bright. It is n sturdy-growing plant, about 
4 feet high, and is one of Mr. Silsbury’s 
seedlings. 

Charles Jones.— A varietv of this year. 
tli A colour of which is described as jonquil- 
yellow. The shade is especially rich and 
pleasing. The flowers, not over large, are of 
recurving chape, the petals thick and 
leathery; plant 4 feet high. 

W. Mease. Although one can make a note 
of this variety, it will, 4 believe, not be sent 

Digitized by CjOOglC 


out until 1909. It is a gigantic flow’er, with 
tier above tier of long, hanging, slightly in¬ 
curving florets; colour, pearly-white, with 
pink tint, more especially toward the centre 
of tlie flower. This very fine novelty for 
exhibitors was raised by Mr. Norman Davis. 

Mrs. C. F. Coster. —The charming and 
distinct shade of this flower may be termed 
apricot-yellow. It is a broad, somewhat 
shallow bloom, with flat, recurving florets. 
Plant of dwarf growth, and easy to cultivate. 
It should become popular on account of the 
colour. Raised by Mr. Silsbury. 

Mrs. J. Hygate is an exceptionally fine 
white Japanese, of close incurving form, 
large and deep. This looks a noble type ar¬ 
ranged in vases. 

Mrs. Charles Pen ford. —This is deep 
yellow in colour, w ith narrow florets of great 
length, which form a bloom of that deep, 
drooping character so much admired in the 
Japanese type. 

Mrs. L. Thorne. —This light yellow form 
is one that w ill he welcomed by exhibitors be¬ 
cause of its handsome build. It has mas¬ 
sive petals, which curl and droop, thus 
making up a flower that will be telling in 
competition. 

Clara Vernum is a Japanese flower, but of 
medium size, and therefore specially adapted 
for cutting. More of this class is needed, 
because this phase of culture is likely to 
last even when the big flowers become less 
popular. The colour is a dark crimson, the 
blooms well-formed, each about 4 inches in 
diameter, and slightly recurving in shape. 
This is from Mr. Wells. 

Felton’s Favourite, a decorative variety 
of exceptional value. It bears freely, flowers 
of medium size and full, solid form, of a re¬ 
curving character; colour, pure glistening 
white. The flowers are especially striking 
under artificial light. A seedling raised by 
Mr. N. Davis. 

Mrs. Wakefield. —This is another first- 
rate sort, of the decorative type. The colour is 
a cerise crimson, with yellow shading, tints 
that will show well in gas-light. The blooms 
are about 4 inches ncrosa, full, and of 
slightly recurving shape. Exhibited recently 
by Mr. H. J. Jones. 

Clara Wells belongs to the incurved sec¬ 
tion, a class of superb exhibition flowers that 
tax the patience of cultivators more than 
other types. This new’ one has blooms of 
first-rate build, the petals are thick and 
smooth ; colour, a light shade of fawn. 
Lately exhibited by Messrs. W. Wells and 
Co. 

Romance. —Although a trifle deeper in its 
yellow colour, this incurved flower is so 
much like the well-known C. H. Curtis that 
exhibiting the two on the same stand is likely 
to lead to difficulty. H. S. 

M A RK ET CHRY S A NTH EM U MS. 

At one time the value of new and choice 
Chrysanthemums was largely determined by 
their individual size, colour and form being 
factors of less value in consequence. Floral 
committees, fortunately, have come to the 
conclusion that size is not the main point, 
and now quite a large number of medium¬ 
sized flowers receive first class certificates 
and awards of merit. Varieties that find 
favour to-day because of their pleasing form 
ami good and distinct colours, and because 
of their free flowering, would have been 
ignored by the N.C.S. and other such 
bodies years ago, because they were not 
large enough. Many lovely flowers were 
passed over for this reason. We arc, there¬ 
fore. pleased to find that the floral committee 
of the N.C.S. have from time to time 
awarded a first-class certificate to a so- 
called “market” variety. Market growers 
prefer a Chrysanthemum with a short, erect 
footstalk, in which the leaves do not come 
within several inches of the flower itself, and, 
however fine a bloom may be, if the foliage 
is well up the flower stem, and immediately 
under the flower itself, it loses value from the 
market grower’s point of view. 

Readers may be glad to learn the names of 
some of the more popular market Chrysan¬ 
themums. The flowering season now begins 
quite early, so that throughout the whole of 
September there are numerous varieties that 
are freely offered for sale. At this early 


period yellow kinds are represented bv 
Carrie, a bright canary yellow kind, of ex’- 
quisite form, and very dwarf; Eletob Yellow 
and Horace Martin are both consistent yel¬ 
low sorts during September and later, and 
Maggie is another rich yellow sort, with a 
dwarf habit. White varieties are repre¬ 
sented by Roi dee Blancs, free, of good form, 
and very dainty. Myehett White, Dolly 
Prince, Market White, Doris Peto, Dame 
Blanche, and Champ de Neige are other 
varieties that arc freely marketed. Parisiana 
is a larger flower than any of the others, and 
doefl well. Crimsons are represented bv 
Goacher’s Crimson and Harvest Home; 
orange and bronze-coloured sorts aiul kin¬ 
dred tones by Polly, Rosie, Nina Blick, and 
Ilarrie ; soft pink by Hector ; rose, blush, and 
mauve-coloured sorts by Improved Masse, 
Lillie, Perle Chatillionaise (beautiful when 
disbudded), Mine. Marie Masse, and Mme. 
Casimir Perrier. During October good sorts 
are: Merstham Yellow, Kathleen Thompson, 
bright crimson ; Caprice du Printempe, rosv- 
purple; Le Cygne, purest white, tipped gold; 
Nellie Blake, rich bronze; Perle Rose, pearl 
pink; Le Pactole, bronzy-yellow; Soleil d’Oc- 
tobre, soft yellow; Bronze Soleil d’Octohre, 
buff ; Ivorv, white ; Pink Ivory, pink ; Money 
Maker, pearly-white; and Orange Soleil d’Oc- 
tobre, orange. 

Of November-flowering market Chrysanthe¬ 
mums, some of the better varieties'include 
Source d’Or, orange terra-cotta; Crimson 
Source d’Or, crimson-red; Lizzie Adcock, 
rich yellow sport from Source d’Or; Dazzler. 
rich crimson-scarlet; Elaine, a very old pure 
white sort ; Market Red. brightest metallic 
red ; Godfrey’s King, bright reddish-crimson ; 
Viviand Morel, mauve-pink; N.C.S. Jubilee, 
blush-mauve; La Triomphant. lilac-rose; 
Yellow Triomphant, rich yellow ; F. S. Vail! ;, 
canary yellow ; Mrs. John Meakins, rosy- 
chestnut, gold?n reverse; Mrs. Wakefield, 
reddish rose, suffused bronze ; Kitty Rogers, 
a lovely bright canary yellow, very striking; 
Clara Vernum. rich crimson ; Warrior, bright 
chestnut; and Gladys Roult, pure white. 

Chrysanthemums that come into flower in 
late November and the succeeding months 
have been much improved in recent years. 
Good quality characterises most of them, 
awl the undermentioned varieties can be 
taken in hand with confidence: Matthew 
Hodgson, crimson-brown ; Letrier, a very late 
white kind; Mile. Louise Charnet. pink; 
H. W. Rieman. golden yellow ; Golden Prin¬ 
cess Victoria, yellow ;* Glorv. rich golden 
yellow ; Glorious, reddish-crimson ; Francois 
Pilou, rich golden yellow; Florence Davis, 
white, with greenish centre; Mme. Edmond 
Roger, greenish-white; Allman’s Yellow, 
free-flowering; L. Canning, white; Violet 
Lady Beaumont, very deep crimson; Nagoya, 
rich golden-yellow; Tuxedo, terra-cotta 
bronze; Princess Victoria, white; Niveum, 
white; Mrs. Swinburne, creamy-white; Mr?. 
Barkley, rosy mauve; Mme. R. Cadbury, 
ivory-white ; Theresc Panckouche, pure white ; 
Mme. Felix Perrier, pink; Western King, 
pure white; Mme. Paolo Radaelli, rosy- 
white; Mme. G. Rivol. rosy-yellow sport from 
the last-named ; Mrs. Jos. Thompson, w hite 
Japanese incurved; W. Duckham, pale 
mauve; and Yellow Mrs. J. Thompson, a 
beautiful yellow sport from Mrs. Thompson. 

W. V. T. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Early-flow’ering Chrysanthemum Ro3fe.— 

Although this variety lias been in cultivation lor 
several years, it is not so often seen as it deserves. 
While the flowers are very richly coloured and warm 
in their tones, the sprays are too still in their branch¬ 
ing character to make them really valuable for 
cutting. The colour of the flowers may he described 
as a rich-bronzy terra-cotta, and of late this has 
been singularly rich and beautiful. The tine, sturdy 
branching character of the plant gives it a special 
value for border culture. The height is nbout 2 feet, 
and the time of flowering the latter half of Sep¬ 
tember and October.—W. V. T. 


Early-flowering Pompon Chrysanthemum 

Orange Pet —This Pompon has done exceedingly 
well miring the present season. The plant flowers 
continuously from late September till the end of 
October. Not the least of its points of merit is its 
free-flowering character; and as the plant has a first- 
rate branching style of growth, it is possible to cut 
and come again without exhausting the supply of 
blossom. For mixing with other Chrysanthemums, 
especially those of the warmer tones of colour, this 
orange-yellow Pompon is very useful. The flowers 
are rather larger than in most Pompon Chrysanthe¬ 


mum- and the plant has n good constitution f. 


URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


November 16, Ui07 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


499 



ORCHIDS. 

CATTLEYA BOWRINGIANA. 

The flowers of this fine species are very 
pretty and effective, and serve to brighten 
up many an Orchid house during the dull, 
dark days of the present and succeeding 
months. It has long, rather narrow pseudo¬ 
bulbs and leaves, the spike occurring on the 
apex of the former, and carrying a consider¬ 
able number of blossoms. Each of these in 
a good form is from 3 inches to 4 inches 
across, the ground colour of the sepals and 
petals being a warm rosy purple, with dark 
crimson veins; the lip bright purple, with a 
white centre. The culture of C. Bow- 
ringiana i« not at all difficult. It likes a full 
Cattleya-house temperature, and on several 
occasions this season I have seen the plants 
doing extremely well in a temperature bor¬ 
dering closely on that of the East India 
house. Whether among growers in the 
vicinity of the metropolis this was first done 
to get the blossoms early and out of the way 
before the worst of the fog season comes on 
or not, I cannot say, but if so, they have, 
fortunately, hit upon the right mode of treat 


ROOM AND WINDOW. 


CAMPANULAS AS INDOOR PLxVNTS. 
A good many years ago, before I knew as 
much about hardy flowers as I do now, I hap¬ 
pened, in passing through a country town, to 
see a window-ledge filled with Campanula 
pusilla, and its white form. Tiie plants were 
in full bloom, and were well grown, the fresh 
green foliage being covered with the dainty 
little blossoms. It is a great pity that win¬ 
dow gardeners neglect Campanulas so much. 
Many of them are peculiarly adapted to this 
form of gardening, and their culture is easy 
and inexpensive. They may be wintered in 
a cold-frame, putting them into the open 
early in April, or, failing that accommoda¬ 
tion, they may be plunged up to the rim of 
the pots in the open ground. A dozen or a 
score of plants may be grown in this way, 
and they can l>e brought into the windows as 
they come into bloom. The one exception is 
C. isophylla, which is not quite hardy enough 
to withstand extremes of wet in conjunction 
with cold, and should, therefore, be sheltered 


Cattleya Bowringiann. Prom a photograph in the gardens at Gunnerdbury House, Acton, W 


ing this pretty Cattloya. Willi regard to re 
potting, the best of „11 times to do this is 
just when a flush of roots from the last 
made bulbs is being emitted. Catch them at 
once; never, by any means, wait until they 
are an inch or so long, for in this ease 
it is impossible to repot without seriously 
damaging them. Quite recently I saw several 
fine plants that had just been repotted. j 
though the flower-spikes were well developed 
sod the individual blossoms could he plainly 
seen. The young green points of the roots I 
were pushing vigorously into the new com¬ 
post. and long before winter these plants w ill 
bo re-established in their pots, so that they I 
will hardly feel tile removal. Had they bocii 
left until the spring before being potted, they I 
would certainly have bail the growing season 
in front of them, hut root action is never so 
brisk as during early autumn. The best 
compost for it consists'of equal parts of peat 
and Sphagnum, carefully shaking out the 
loose sand and dirt, from the former and all 
decayed portions of (he Moss. Keep it nil 
in a rough, open condition, and pay especial 
attention to the drainage, as this' Catfleva 
when in full growth requires a very large 
quantity of water. Even in the winter it will 
not stand being kept very drv, shrivelled 
pseudo-bulbs and weak groaih in’snrino 
tiie inevitable result pf " 

Digitiz 


grimth in spring baing 

udiislc 


from November till April. The following arc 
! all suitable for this form of gardening: — 
Campanula muralis, also listed as Porten- 
i schlagiana, is a very hardy, free growing 
species, and the most easily managed of the 
family. It forms a thick mass of dense green 
foliage, which, in the case of healthy speci- 
I mens, is smothered with pale blue blossoms. 

| This species can be grown in the same pots 
! for several years without change of soil, and 
I will remain perfectly healthy if well supplied 
' with moisture at the roots. 

C. pusilla, above alluded to, is one of the 
| most charming hardy plants in cultivation. 
It is by no means delicate, but acutely feels 
excess of moisture at the roots ; therefore, 
the pots in which it is grown should be well 
drained, and the soil should be very free. 
This species belongs to that section ‘of the 
family which throws out underground stems, ! 
which cannot extend in close soil. A little 
leaf-mould in the compost will ensure the I 
necessary amount of friability. 

C. pulla.— A charming species, and well 
adapted for pots. It has the same manner of 
growth as the preceding species, being very 
dwarf, but the flowers are much larger and 
very richly coloured. It is a fine and distinct j 
species, not at all difficult, to grow in pots, j 
but must have good drainage. 


C. carpatica.— This is a much more robust 
species, running up to a height of 1 foot in 
j pots. It can be grown by the merest tyro in 
plant culture, and loves a little well-rotted 
manure in the compost. There are several 
| varieties of the type, and the pure white 
form is a good thing. Well-grown specimens 
j of this Campanula will make a brave show, 
and, if not allowed to form seed-pods, and 
I given liquid manure once a week from the 
I time the plants commence to bloom, they 
J will remain ornamental during the greater 
| portion of the summer. Being comparatively 
I strong-rooted, it is better to shake the plants 
out in early spring and repot in fresh eom- 
| post. 

I C. Waldsteiniana.— A charming species, 

I very dwarf in habit, and not extending 
I rapidly. Care should be taken not to over- 
l pot, and good drainage, with very free soil, 
must be given. In a general way this species 
does better iri pots than in the open ground. 

! Coming from the warmer portion of Europe, 

; it bears excess of moisture in combination 
with cold. 

I C. HEDERACEA (the Ivy-leaved Bellflower) 

I has a fine appearance in pots, and is worthy 
of a place among green¬ 
house plants. I prefer 
it to the blue form of 
C. isophylla, the colour 
being richer and the 
habit more graceful. 
Although of more deli¬ 
cate appearance, it is of 
free growth, and enjoys a 
bit of rich soil. Well 
grown, this species is ex¬ 
ceedingly ornamental, 
and useful for baskets, 
either in the greenhouse 
or window. 

C. isophylla, some¬ 
times, and very appro¬ 
priately, ealled the Cas¬ 
cade Campanula, is now 
well known to those who 
have window - ledges, 
boxes, and hanging bas¬ 
kets to furnish. It is far 
and away the finest of 
the dwarf sections of the 
family, and possesses so 
many good points that I 
fail to see how it could 
be improved. In it3 
finest form it will give 
masses of bloom a foot 
or more through, and 
18 inches in depth, and, 
if well attended to, the 
plants will remain effec¬ 
tive all through August 
and September. The 
blue form I do not find 
so free-growing, it doevS 
not give such long trails 
of bloom, and the 
colour is not so good 
as it might ho. Although this species 
may be grown two years in the same pots 
with fair success, I strongly advise annual 
repotting. Be sure, however, never to repot 
before the young growths are about ^ inch 
long, for, it repotted in a state of rest, 
this species will often refuse to start into 
growth. J. CORNHILL. 

NOTES AND EE PLIES. 

Flowers in the house. —Chrysanthemums 
will be a special feature now, and. in addi¬ 
tion, Vallota purpurea is very effective and 
lasting. Some of the hardier (Orchids, especi¬ 
ally Cypripediums and Calanthes, will last for 
weeks, and not give much trouble. Cycla 
mens, Primulas, and Begonias will last some 
time with careful watering. This will de¬ 
pend upon the temperature of the room. 

The garden in the house.— There is 
nothing equal to Palms for the decoration 
of halls, corridors, and stair-landings. The 
plants should be large, ns small ones do 
not bear hardship go well as large ones. 
Where electric light is used, we have had 
large Kentias in good condition for more 
than a year. We ( moved them to get a 
change. The green-leaved Dracienae also 
stand pell. Bamboos soon lose' tone, and 
must, be changed everv ton davs. 

w - -n 








500 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


November 16, 1907 


ROSES. 

TEA ItOSES IN OCTOBER. 

Next to the Hybrid Teas, which were re¬ 
ferred to recently, the true Teas stand out 
prominently as valuable autumn Roses, and 
perhaps the best of them would he G. Nabon- 
nand. This splendid sort has been particu¬ 
larly beautiful this year, and what immense 
petals it has in the autumn days! If given 
the same high culture often bestowed upon 
show Roses, these beautiful garden varieties 
would rival them even in size, although not 
in fulness; but in the autumn a semi-double 
flower i3 even more lovely than a double one. 
One cannot name G. Nabonnand without as¬ 
sociating with it the very beautiful sport 
named IVaoe, whose pale, creamy white 
flowers, very faintly tinted, are always 
superb, and so grandly thrown up above the 
foliage. One of the very freest-flowering of 
the Teas is Mme. C. P. Strassheim. This 
Rose is almost wreathed in blossom all 
through the autumn, the sulphur-yellow 
flowers and buff buds being particularly 
showy in the mass. Sulphurea has now to 
be recognised as one of the best garden Roses. 
Its sulphur-yellow buds arc exquisitely 
formed, and they develop into large, milk- 
white open flowers, that utand up so erectly 
and are so wonderfully set off by the almost 
Beetroot-colour of the foliage. Another that 
could claim to be among the best dozen Teas 
is Mme. Antoine Mari. How beautiful arc its 
shapely buds, almost a rosy-red in colour, 
developing into nearly white expanded flowers, 
the contrasting colours being most pro¬ 
nounced. There is no more perfect formed 
Rose than this when about half open. If 
it had but a little more weight of blossom, 
it would be grand for the show-box; but I 
am rather glad it has not this extra double¬ 
ness, because then much of its beauty of out¬ 
line would be lost. 

Mme. Cliedanne Guinoisseau, a beautiful 
canary-yellow, and Mme. Hoste, pale yellow, 
are two really excellent sorts, the former 
very showy, and the latter perhaps more 
stately. Mme. C. Guinoisseau is reputedly 
a sport of Mme. Falcot, and certainly ft 
greatly resembles that good old Rose in all 
save colour. Marie Van Houtte does not 
yet give up its claims to be one of the best 
for autumn, and it deserves all the good 
things written about it. I always love to 
see this Rose in autumn, for then the rosy- 
pink suffusion ifl always much richer, con¬ 
trasting so remarkably with the crearny- 
yellow of the flower. Mme. Berkeley and 
Yvonne Gravier are also two excellent sorts 
for the autumn. 

Of coloured varieties, few can compare 
with Corallina, a showy Rose, of a 
salmon-red, merging into coral-red. It is 
a tall grower. I like this Rose better than 
General Schablikine, and all who can do 60 
should plant it against an 8-feet to 10-feet 
wall or on a pillar of the pergola. If a hedge 
of Roses were desired in a sheltered part of 
the garden, none could be bettor recom¬ 
mended than Corallina. Betty Berkeley, a 
fine, deep red, with Cactus Dahlia-like blos¬ 
soms, is effective in the garden late in the 
year. We want some good Roses, with the 
brilliancy of Princess de Sagan, without its 
sprawling habit of growth. General Gallieri 
is a beautiful crimson Tea Rose, with a sort 
of old gold suffusion. It is very free and 
good. Other fine decorative Teas, well 
adapted for massing and for flowering late 
in the year, are Anna Olivier, Lady Roberts, 
Enchantress, Morning Glow, Mme. Jean 
Dupuy, ami Mme. Gainon. There arc num¬ 
bers of others, but these are so good that they 
can be well recommended. A splendid 
quality flower would always be assured from 
White Maman Cochet. If grown as a bush, 
the growths would need supporting for a time 
until the plants get up a little. When two or 
three years old. they will then support them- 
selvej. Tliis Rose is worthy of special care, 
its large blooms being as perfect n* we may 
ever see in a Tea Rose. Two other good 
Roses are Bo ad ice a and Mrs. Edward Maw- 
ley. Those w ho prefer this type could not do 
better than plant them freely, for they yield 
most superb blossoms. 

Before I mention a few oilier good autum¬ 
nal Roses, I inav/fi^bere thatJpiujik much 

Digitizes by GOOglC 


might be done to facilitate this late display 
by thoughtful pruning in the summer. From 
many gardens, even ere the first crop of blos¬ 
som has waned, the owners have departed, 
and, perhaps, will not return again until late 
autumn. Given such an opportunity, an 
eminent gardener I know immediately cuts 
off all flower-sprays and buds from some 
hundreds of plants. This has a tendency to 
promote young growth, which furnishes the 
late supply of blossoms, just when the family 
returns. I have noticed some beds this year 
of free-flowering sorts, such as Killarncy, 
lapse into a state of rest, whereas, if the 
flowers had been removed, new growth would 
have been started, and such a state of things 
avoided. Some individuals are very chary 
about cutting the blossoms. 1 maintain that 
cutting the flowers answers a useful purpose, 
provided long growths are not taken with 
them. 1 have often found quite large soed- 
pods on such sorts as Mme. Abel Chatenay. 
Now, had these been removed ere they began 
to swell, the plants would have been relieved 
of a considerable etrain, for it is well known 
that seed producing entails a great drain 
upon the plant’s energies. 

In naming a few good October Roses, I 
must mention the ever-blooming Monthlies or 
Chinas, from the Common Pink, so hardy 
and good, which is covering many a house 
wall, to the dainty Queen Mab, Arethusa. 
Comtcsse de Cayla, Eugene Resal, etc., and 
the brilliant Cramoisi Superieur and Fab 
vier, together with Fellenbcrg and Gruss an 
Teplitz, a Rose that is as much a China as it 
is a Hybrid Tea. Following; on the Chinas, 
there are the little Polyantha Ro6e«, which 
some have called Pompon and others Fairy, 
neither of which is correct. The Fairy Roses 
are not now much grown in England. They 
were known as Lawrenceana Roses, and very 
tiny. I believe they are still grown by French 
nurserymen. The Polyanthas are gems from 
the wonderful almost mahogany-coloured 
Leonie Lamesch, the marvellous mixture of 
colour in Eugenie Lamesch, and the many 
other excellent sorts, some thirty or more in 
number. The Bourbon Roses, represented 
by Armosa and Souvenir de Malmaison, are 
fine in autumn, and of close relationship is 
Gloire dcs Rcsomanes. Single Roses are 
well represented by the Irish single Teas. 
Then there is that grand hybrid, Gottfried 
Keller, which takes our minds back to June- 
time, with its grand Lady Penzance-like blos¬ 
soms, of a much larger size than those of 
the Sweet Brier of that name. Then, how 
rand arc the ruby-red blossoms ot Bardou 
ob, and how well they appear mingling, per¬ 
haps, with a w r hite Clematis on some pergola 
jillar. The old Stamvell Perpetual still 
ingers, and scents the air with its fragrance. 
Of the climbing and rambling Roses, Dorothy 
Perkins lias now well established its claim to 
be the best autumn-flowering rambler. 
Where the plants have been moved in late 
spring, such plants flowered grandly in Octo¬ 
ber. 

In conclusion, I must mention the great 
value of the climbing and half-climbing Teas, 
Hybrid Teas, and Noisettes, of which Alister 
Stella Gray, Longworfch Rambler, Mme. 
Alfred Carriere, Aimee Vibert, Billiard et 
Barre, Mme. Hector Leuillot, Bouquet d’Or, 
Crepuscule, and Gloire de Dijon are the 
best; neither must I forget Frau Karl 
Druschki, whose snowy blossoms are always 
so useful, and the growth so luxuriant, that 
one may well use it on pillars with the 
greatest satisfaction. Rosa. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Pink Rose for grouping I am making n Rose- 
bed this nutnmn, 35 feet by (5 feet, and should like 
to plant one kind of pink Rose (bush Rose). I should 
like it tu be a strong grower, a long bloomer, and, if 
possible, to have a perfume. What Rose would jou 
recommend? I should like the colour, if possible, to 
he real “ rose-pink." Would you also kindly tell me 
how far the plants should be apart;—G. If. 

[A very beautiful variety of a rose pink 
colour, such a* you desire, would be Mme. 
Jules Grolez, and this Rose is sweet-scented. 
It is a good grower, but not so vigorous as 
Caroline Testout or Mine. AIr- 1 Chatenav. 
This latter is very sweet, and its growth is 
very vigorous, but the colour is more of a 
salmon-pink. Caroline Testout is a splendid 
garden Rose, but. unfortunately, it possesses 
little fragrance, although for making a show! 


it is unsurpassed. Camoens and Gustave 
Gruncrwald are both fine sorts, their frag¬ 
rance, however, would not be considered very 
strong. Mme. Leon Pain is also a fine Rose, 
but of a pale rose-pink colour. We think, 
taking it altogether, Mme. Jules Grolez would 
be the best variety for you. We should re¬ 
commend you to plant the bushes about 2 feet 
apart. Such a bed as you are planting— 
namely, 35 feet by 6 feet, would require fifty- 
four plants. About six standards or half- 
standards of the same variety, planted down 
the centre of the bed, would look well.] 

Rose Cloire des Rosomanes.— It cannot be 
denied that most outdoor Roses at this sea¬ 
son of the year have a very washed-out ap¬ 
pearance, but the variety named above al¬ 
ways makes a brave show to the end. It is a 
lovely rich eearlet-criiiison, with wide open, 
semi-double flowers, having a distinct white 
centre. Being of semi-climbing Habit, one 
does not obtain its full beauty unless the 
plant is grown in pillar form, although it 
makes a pretty free bush if allowed to grow 
naturally. Just now, in close proximity to a 
half-standard of Frau Karl Druschki, it looks 
remarkably well, the snowy-whiteness of this 
grand variety, which is so free in autumn, 
accentuating the glowing colour of Gloire des 
Rosomanes. We are indebted to this good 
old Rose for many of the gorgeous-coloured 
Hybrid Perpetual* now grown, including 
General Jacqueminot and Gloire des Mar- 
gottin, and it always seems to me to be a 
desirable sort for raisers to work upon, 
especially as it possesses such a good autumn¬ 
flowering character. I believe there is a 
spurious sort, but its colour is not nearly so 
brilliant as in the true variety.— Rosa. 

Roses raised from cuttings.— Within the 
past few days I have had occasion to lift 
and transplant a number of Roses struck from 
cuttings, which were inserted in a border 
under a wall facing north, in October, 1906. 
Although the winter proved a rather severe 
one, the losses from frost effects were not 
very great, with the result that several hun¬ 
dreds survived and rooted well, forming 
good, useful-sized plants by the end of August 
last. So far each one lifted has come up with 
a good ball of soil attached, consequently 
they should hardly feel the effects of re¬ 
moval. The plants in question have made 
excellent growth, the number of shoots to 
each ranging from three to six, and there is 
evidence in some instances of very strong 
shoots issuing and about to do so from the 
stems some three inches or so below the 
surface. This is one reason why I ain partial 
to Roses grown from cuttings, as they £an be 
depended on to produce strong growth from 
near to, and in many cases actually right 
from, the base of the stems, which greatly 
simplifies matters when necessary to keep the 
bushes as dwarf as possible, to sav nothing 
about the magnificent blooms which such 
growths always yield. It is mostly Teas and 
Hybrid Teas that I propagate in this way, 
and if all are not a success when grown on 
this principle, there are more than many 
imagine which are amenable to this mode of 
treatment, for the majority form far larger 
bushes than many of their neighbours on the 
Manetti or seedling Brier, for instance, after 
they have been in their permanent quarters 
a season or two. So far. I see not- the 
slightest sign of deterioration amongst those 
planted several years since. I usually make 
good all deficiencies in the Rose garden with 
plants raised in this way, and rhe surplus 
comes in useful for a variety of purposes, as 
Roses are in great demand with me for as 
long as they can be had.—A. W. 

Roses at exhibitions I am in sympathy with 
the creator part of what " A. D.” says, at p. 445. in 
relation to the autumn Rose show. During this p.i't 
autumn 1 have had an opportunity of seeing many 
collections, and quite agree with what “ A. D." says 
in relation to new v. old Roses. Marie Van Houtte. 
C. Mermct, Devoniensis. La France. Duke of Edin¬ 
burgh, Victor Hugo. Caroline Testout. Ulrich Brunner. 
Mrs. J. Laing. and Mrs. Sharman Crawford take a 
lot of beating. I like, in the bud state, some of 
the modern Hybrid Teas, such as Grus an Teplitz, 
Killarney, Mainan Cochet, and many others. Many 
kinds appear to be of very weak growth, while others 
are prone to mildew. It is disappointing after plant¬ 
ing some highly-praised new kind to Arid it refuses to 
grow. It is ali very well to see these fine blooms at 
shows, cut from maiden plants. What w ill these same 
plants produce when planted out and cut hack for 
m ver'aT years? Doi*.m t. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



November 10, 1007 GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


601 


FRUIT. 

OUTDOOR STANDARD PEACHES. 
There is an idea among the majority of 
fruit-growers that Peaches can only be grown 
on walls, and that any attempt to try the 
Peach as a standard in the open only means 
failure. Some years ago a friend of mine in 
the neighbourhood had a young standard 
Royal George Peach given him, and asked 
me if I thought it worth while planting it in | 
his garden. Knowing that his 6oil was 
naturally just about right for Peaches, I said, j 
“Yes; by all means. Not being able to pro¬ 
tect in the open as on a wall, you will have 
to chance a good set, hut in some seasons you 
will, probably, have a very fair crop.’’ He 


strongly recommend intending planters to 
procure it this coming season. The flavour 
is most agreeable, the 6kin rather pale, but 
nicely coloured on the sunny side. Two years 
ago I saw some fine fruits at the Topsham 
Nurseries, more like Blenheim as regards 
size, and the few gathered from two trees in 
the garden under my charge are nice fruits. 
The birds had sampled several ere I thought 
of netting them. This Apple comes into use 
during the latter part of October and early 
November in this locality, but would, prob¬ 
ably, keep until Christmas further north.— 
Devonian. 


NOTES FROM THE FRUIT SHOW. 

To ordinary visitors no doubt the Fruit Show 
at the Horticultural Hall conveyed the im- 


favourable was evidenced in the really grand 
fruits staged by Messrs. Bunyard, of Maid¬ 
stone, and grown under glass. Finer 
examples of perfect fruits have rarely been 
seen, but the glass-house conditions are those 
we can never hope to find in this country out¬ 
doors, even when the summer is warm and 
sunny. But even with these splendid fruits, 

I with all their beauty and size, there is the 
drawback that, like the gaudy Apples which 
come from British Columbia, they lack juici¬ 
ness and crispness, features we like to find in 
Apples, and do, happily, find in so many 
varieties when outdoor conditions are more 
favourable than they have been this year. 

It was, naturally, a matter for comment, 
and a very important subject for discussion is 
, raised thereby, that whilst crops on all enrly- 
I flowering fruits, whether on trees or bushes, 



Standard Peaches in a garden at Esher, Surrey. From a photograph sent by Mr. E. Burr.-ll, Claremont Gardens, Esher. 


took my advice, did it well at planting-time, 
and has paid keen attention to it ever since, I 
in the way of mulching, a bit of pruning, a 
bit of shelter in spring, and a net beneath in ' 
autumn to catch the fruit. One thing I can- j 
not persuade him to do, and that is to thin 
the fruit well. He has had between three I 
and four hundred fruits on the tree this year, 
well coloured, well finished, and well ! 
flavoured, but, naturally, rather small. 

Claremont. ' E. Burrell. 

Apple Coronation. —A very fine fruit, re- , 
sembling “ Cox’s,” .but much larger and flat 
ter. It also has very long stems. The variety 
is getting plentiful in Devon, George Pyne, of 
Topsham, having distributed it. It makes a | 
compact bush tree or~pivrarnid, anrVI would I 

Digitized b Google 


pression that Apples at least, the dominating 
fruit of the exhibition, were a very abundant 
crop. But such an assumption would be very 
misleading. Really, whilst those fruits were 
so plentiful at the show, and great quantities 
of them were very fine, yet are they the 
poorest fruit crop of the year. Very largely 
the abundance of Apples seen came from fruit 
nurseries, where there are tens of thousands 
of young trees growing, and from which it is 
possible in even spars j fruiting seasons still 
to obtain a good representative collection. 
Generally the Apples shown from private 
gardens were under-sized and lacked finish— 
indeed, on many fruits fungoid spots were 
freely seen, evidence that the weather had 
for Apples been cold and ungenial. What 
Applet can be when all environment is 


wall-fruits—especially Apricots, Cherries, 
Plums, and Pears, were abundant, the latest 
flowering trees—those of Apples—and re¬ 
putedly the hardiest, should yet have suffered 
most from frosts and cold, ungenial weather. 
What argument from this fact can be derived 
by those w r ho still clamour for a race of later- 
bloorning fruits. Really, such is the nature 
of our climate that it may be more harmful to 
fruit-bloom in May than in April. Such was 
the cose this year, and, had our Apple-trees 
but have been in bloom in April rather than 
in May, we might have, as with other fruits, 
had a fine crop of Apples. But the lack of 
these most useful fruits this year may not be, 
after all, an evil. With such an abundance 
of othpr fruits, creating, too often, market 
gluhj, A-pples-would have sold badly, no 









50-2 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


.November 16, 1907 


doubt. Being scarce, good samples—and 
only good samples are worth being taken to 
market—will, no doubt, fetch a good price. 
Canadian Apples, in barrels and perfectly 
even, well graded samples, are already 
coming in, showing that the growers in that 
Colony know something of our shortage, and 
are hoping to benefit thereby. Probably by 
Christmas English Apples will be rare in our 
shops. But with good reason we may well 
look for a fine Apple crop next year. The 
rest the trees have had. the moisture of the 
summer enabling good growth and fruit-spurs 
to be created, the warmth of September well 
ripening wood and spurs, and the later heavy 
rains gave roots a good fillip, so that strong 
root-action may he looked for next spring. 
We rarely get two springs alike, and whilst 
the weather may next year be less mild in 
April, it may be admirable in May, and if 
so, then a great Apple crop will be assured, 
and some recompense obtained for a poor 
crop this season. For that reason, there 
should be no want of determination to plant 
trees as usual. They will transplant now 
with excellent results. The trees have 
plenty of good fibrous roots, the soil is 
thoroughly moist, yet far from being exces¬ 
sively wet. These are favourable conditions, 
such as should inspire full confidence. 

In 6mall gardens it is quite needless to 
plant a great variety of Apples. Half a 
dozen dessert varieties, especially including 
Worcester Pearmain. James Grieve, Ailing- 
ton Pippin, Cox’s Orange Pippin, Lord Hind- 
lip, and Sturmer Pippin, should suffice, and 
give, under proper cultivation, capital crops, 
that include long succession. As to cooking 
Apples, Pott’s Seedling, Stirling Castle, the 
new .Victoria, Lane’s Prince Albert, Royal 
Late Cooking, and Newton Wonder will give 
an excellent selection. That there are many 
others good is certain ; hut when six varieties 
only are commended, necessarily a very small 
selection has to be made. Very early 
varieties are not the most profitable to grow, 
hence none are advised. Had a wider selec¬ 
tion been made, then Lord Suffield or Lord 
Grosvenor, or both, might have been added. 

A. D. 


GATHERING AND RIPENING LATE 
PEARS. 

Good Pears are often spoiled by being 
gathered loo soon, and neglecting to help 
them with a little heat to bring up their 
flavour later on. when their season for use 
draws near. This more especially refers to 
late Pears, which are supposed to be in 
season from Christmas onwards. During 
October and November there are generally, 
in most gardens where Pears are grown, 
more than can be consumed; but when the 
Christmas festivities are over, there is. not 
unfrequently, a scarcity of really good fruit. 
Late Pears should be left on the trees to the 
last hour they are capable of holding on. 
Early gathering means early ripening, if the 
fruits do not shrivel; in the latter case, of 
course, they are useless. Easter Beurre 
especially must he left on the trees as long 
as possible, as it has a habit of ripening be¬ 
fore its proper season, though soil and situa¬ 
tion have something to do with this. All late 
Pears should be kept in a dry, cool, dark 
room till about a fortnight before they are 
required for use, and should then be placed 
in a temperature of 60 degs. to ripen as re¬ 
quired. If not the best Christmas Pear. Glou 
Moreeau is certainly one of Ihe best, and it 
rarely fails to bear on a wall. This should 
make a profitable sort to plant against the 
gable end of a lofty building in a good aspect, 
with the roots kept out of the cold subsoil, 
especially where this is clay, though I have 
found a subsoil of sand as injurious to Pear- 
trees when the roots penetrate it as clay. An 
excellent old winter Pear will be found in 
Winter Nelis, valuable not only for its excel¬ 
lent flavour, but also for its long time in 
season. If kept in the dark, and taken into 
a temperature of GO degs. a few at a time ns 
required, its season will last for pretty well 
three months. Knight’s Monarch is another 
old Pear that is excellent in point of flavour, 
and will keep in condition for several months. 
This is not much grown now—at least, I have 
not often met with it of late years, though I 
have pleasant reminisoenge* of an old tree I 

Digitized by CjOOglC 


knew many years ago in Worcestershire. It 
never carries a very heavy crop— i.e., it 
never injures itself by overbearing—as, when 
heavily laden, it will generally cast some of 
its fruit, i have often seen the ground be¬ 
neath the old tree referred to strewn with 
immature fruit. Doubtless a mulch of 
manure would check this habit of parting 
with its load. Olivier des Serres is an excel¬ 
lent late Pear, and deserves a place in every 
garden, its season being from February to 
March. Nc Plus Meuris generally bears 
freely, both on espaliers and also on walls. 
The finest and best samples come from a 
good aspect on a wall, preferably south or 
south-east. Perhaps one of the most uncer¬ 
tain late Pears is Beurre Ranee. I have 
had it delicious, and I have had it hardly so 
good as a Turnip. It requires a sunny, freely 
ventilated position. I have had this Pear 
good from espaliers occasionally, hut the best 
samples I ever saw were grown on the gable 
end of a large thatched barn, the thatch pro¬ 
jecting sufficiently to protect the blossoms in 
spring. Bergamottc d’Espercn sometimes 
bears freely, especially on the Quince; but, 
though an excellent-flavoured Pear, it has 
not vet established its reputation as a free 
bearing kind. Doyenne du Comice with mo 
comes in before Christmas, and can therefore 
hardly be called a late Pear, but it is, with¬ 
out exception, one of the best midseason 
sorts. It grows freely in all aspects and 
situations, and succeeds well on the Quince. 
Josephine de Malines has received a high 
character in the past, but it does not do well 
everywhere. Some years ago I tried it on 
the Quince, hut it was not a complete success. 
The tree did not grow well, and the Pears 
were gritty. This might have been due to 
the soil of the locality, as certain Pears arc 
gritty on particular soils. Grower. 


NOTKS AND PE PLIES. 

Peaches in cold-houses. —Some eighteen 
years ago I planted a tree of Amsden June 
in a cold-house. Some gardening friends had 
a higher opinion of some other kinds, but, 
from what 1 bad seen of the American 
Peaches. I chose this, and have since ob¬ 
served how this has grown into favour. From 
this I generally obtained my first dish during 
the last week in June. To follow this I grew 
Hale’s Early. Of this I planted two trees in 
different positions, thus extending the season 
about ten days. By the time this was over 
Early Grasse Mignonne was ready, to be fol¬ 
lowed by Crimson Galande. This and 
Diamond are very fine mid-season sorts, 
giving fruit of good colour, size, and flavour. 
These two and Stirling Castle kept up the 
supply till the old Noblesse came in. This 
grand old Peach should be in every collec¬ 
tion. Certainly no other kind can surpass it 
for flavour. Recently, when at Cricket St. 
Thomas, where mucti space is devoted to 
Peach culture under glass, Mr. Lyon told 
me that after trying most of the kinds he 
considered Noblesse the best for flavour. 
Some object to its pale colour, and, no doubt, 
for market this is a disadvantage. When this 
fine old kind is over n good one to follow it 
is to be found in Rayinaekers. With me this 
is smaller and somewhat brighter in colour, 
but of the best flavour. The tree is hardy 
and a good grower. By the time this is over 
Walburton Admirable is fit for use, and 
Gladstone closed our season about mid-Octo¬ 
ber. Mr. Strugnell thinks highly of Condor 
to follow Hale’s Early.—J. C. 

Pines. The fruiting stove will require a 
night temperature of 65 degs. to G8 degs. 
Atmospheric moisture may be supplied by 
damping walls and floors. Do not syringe 
plants in flower, and plants with ripening 
fruit must be kept on the dry side. Pine 
watering in winter needs judgment and care, 
as a water-logged Pine soon becomes foxy 
and goes wrong. A comfortable hot tom-beat 
is necessary for all Pines. There will be no 
potting to do till the days lengthen, if the 
last shift in September was given suitably. 
It often happens that a Pine stove can be 
used for other work. We have grown French 
Beans on shelves along the back of the house, 
and Cucumbers have been grown in pots 
along the front, where it was necessary to 
make the most of the houses, and where the 


formation of the house gave room for more 
work. 

Storing fruit. —The season of home grown 
Apples and Pears might be very much pro¬ 
longed if growers had better store rooms, 
and, above all, exercised more discretion in 
letting the latest kinds of fruit stop longer 
on the trees. We have lately heard a good 
deal about Plums being so plentiful that 
they did not repay the growers for gathering 
and sending to market, but, now that they 
are over, and Apples and Pears are the main 
things on fruit-growers’ carts, I find just the 
same mistakes being made ns in former yearB 
—viz., bringing into towns, where the buyers 
have no room for storing, such varieties of 
Apples and Pears as would realise a good 
deal more in two or three montns’ time. 
Once they get into the retailers’ hands, they 
are sold at once, for they have no means of 
keeping them, and very little knowledge of 
varieties. I may mention Blenheim Orange 
Apples, that are now being sold while there 
is abundance of fine Apples of half tiie value 
that would answer the purpose better, the 
result being that the grower loses half his 
profits.—J. G., (*fisjiorf. 

VEGETABLES, 

SEED POTATOES. 

When the complete report of the trial of 
Potatoes from seed grown in Surrey, Lincoln, 
Scotland, and Ireland, conducted for the 
Surrey Education Committee, is published, 
it will be found that Irish seed tubers excel 
even Scotch generally in robustness and pro¬ 
ductiveness. That result is but repeating the 
experience of last year, and as it is of great 
importance to all southern Potato growers, I 
am most anxious to see the Royal Horticul¬ 
tural Society varying its stereoty|>cd tiial of 
varieties, old and new, yearly at Wisley. I 
hold no brief for anyone’s Potatoes ; I simply 
deal with certain results obtained from a trial 
of ten well-known varieties, ineluding in each 
ease seed tubers of Surrey, Scotch, and Irish 
origin, and a few, including seed tubers, from 
Lincolnshire also. These results are. in¬ 
deed, surprising. Taking Up-to-Date solely 
ns an illustration, a row of 30 feet long, 
planted with twenty-six carefully selected 
tubers, properly sprouted, of Surrey-grown 
seed, gave only 14 lb.—a miserable crop; 
Midland seed gave 49 lb. ; Scotch seed, 
73 II). ; and Irish seed, 84 lb. Thus it is seen 
that the Irish seed product is exactly six 
times greater than in the home or Surrey 
seed product. Not only will the report, when 
published, set out in detail the methods of 
culture adopted, all very simple and farm¬ 
like. but will also give details of the effects 
of certain artificial manure applications, to 
parts of rows, and also with some entire rows, 
as against, ground lime only. All being well 
next, year, I am hoping to conduct a trial of 
immature seed lifted last August, of eight 
varieties, against mature seed of the same 
varieties lifted in October, and from such 
trial hope to derive useful information on a 
matter of great interest. A. D. 


NOTES AND PE PLIES. 

Potatoes Duchess of Albany and Factor. 

—In an article on Potatoes, which appeared 
in the issue of October 2Gth, I stated that 
7 lb. of Duchess of Cornwall yielded 210 lb., 
and that the same weight of Factor yielded 
19G lb., whereas the crop was 310 lb. and 
296 lb. I am pleased to see that “W. S.” 
confirms the high opinion I ventured to ex¬ 
press of Duchess of Albany. I feel sure that 
this is the coming market Potato, as it has 
such a taking appearance. As “W. S.” re¬ 
marks, in the case of such vigorous, heavy 
bearing varieties, it is difficult, under high 
culture, at least, to obtain the requisite 
amount of tubers of the size most favoured 
for planting. At one time I was much against 
cutting up large Potatoes for sets, but enough 
has come under notice in recent years to 
prove that there is no loss of vitality by so 
doing. In the ease of the kinds I have men¬ 
tioned, a portion of the seed was cut up, the 
yield being as good ns that from the smaller 

se bNtVf^S r ff¥ , OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 





November 16, 1907 


GAUDK,mMG ILLUSTRATED. 


503 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 

ACT1MD1A ARGUTA. 

The Actinidiae were so fully dealt with in 
Gardening Illustrated as recently ns De- I 
comber 22nd last, that nothing remains to be 
said, except to direct attention to a life-like i 
flowering spray of Aetinidia arguta, herewith 
figured, and to record the fact that. Aetinidia 
chinensis, which was illustrated at the time 
♦dated, was. at the last. Temple show, given 
an award of merit by the Royal Horticultural 
Society. It bids fair to be a valuable quick- 
growing climber, with large heart-shaped I 
leaves, dark green on the upjier surface, and 
tomentoee beneath. A notable feature is the ! 
fact that the young leaves and shoots are 
thickly covered with red hairs. X. 


flowers in summer. Then there is the Rose¬ 
mary, which no garden should be without. 
It always looks fresh in its dark green dress 
of richly scented leaves. Probably these 
three things are the most accommodating of 
all the scented shrubs, for they will flourish 
upon hot, dry, stony soils where little else 
would grow. Equally as sweet and hardy are 
the different forms of the Southernwood 
(Artemisia) ; in fact, this is quite a large 
genus, of which it is rare to see a single 
member in gardens. A. maritima. which 
covers dry banks with a fragrant down in 
maritime districts, might be put to the same 
use in gardens. A. tanocetifolia has finely 
cut foliage as light and graceful as a Fern, 
whilst, the green-leaved A. Abrotanum is, 
perhaps, the sweetest of them all. A. anethi- 
folia is a vigorous herbaceous perennial. 



Aetinidia arguta. 


FRAGRANT SHRUBS AND PLANTS. 
We might with advantage pay more attention 
to the many and varied fragrant shrubs, for 
nothing is more delightful when strolling 
round a garden than to be regaled with the 
odours which ever pervade the air where 
sweet-smelling plants are grown in quantity. 
The Lavender is one of the sweetest of dwarf 
hardy shrubs, but hardly anyone thinks of 
planting it when making a shrubbery. It is 
beautiful when in bloom, as everyone knows, 
hut so it is when out of flower, as the eye 
finds repose in, and never tires of looking 
upon, its soft-cushioned masses of silver- 
grey foliage. This is one of the things that 
might be boldly used in the foreground of the 
shrubbery between the taller shrubs and the 
turf ; and, moreover, planting shrubbery mar¬ 
gins with such things as these would render 
digging unnecessary. Another sweet thing 
of the same grey colour is the Lavender Cot¬ 
ton (Santolina). It lia*T'>ollow Dai#-like 

Digitized by CjOOglC 


j throwing up often as high as 5 feet a woody- 
i branched stem, which is clothed with sweet 
thread-like greyish green leaves, and A. 
annua is another graceful tall growing kind. 
In the rock garden this family may be repre- 
I sen ted by such kinds as A. alpina and A. 
frigida. A. alpina forms dense silvery tufts, 
while A. frigida is a pretty trailing plant 
which rambles over the ground rooting as it 
goes, and forming a dense hoary carpet. 
Both have yellow flowers. Comptonia aspleni- 
folia is a hardy, spreading, bushy shrub with 
elegant Fern-like foliage, which gives off a 
delightful odour when touched. It is called 
the Fern-leaved Gale. Then there is the Bog 
Myrtle or Sweet Gale (Myrica), so suitable 
for wet situations. Many of the herbs might 
be used, especially such things as Marjoram, 
Camomile, etc. The Sweet Bay is one of the 
finest of scented shrubs, and a valuable ever¬ 
green, too. Upon warm soils it forms quite a 
tree as much as 40 feet high. The Sweet 


Verbena (Aloysia citriodora) 1ms a perfume 
which all appreciate. It is one of the most 
useful scented shrubs for cutting. Although 
considered and usually treated as a green¬ 
house plant, it will live out-of-doors in many 
southern gardens, especially if planted against 
a warm wall. It strikes very easily. The 
Balm of Gilead (Cedronella triphvlla) has a 
delightful odour. It is a half-hardv shrub in 
most situations, but would, probably, prove 
hardy in favoured spots in the west and 
south of England. It forms a spreading bush 
about 4 feet high, and the shoots are ter¬ 
minated bv little spikes of pale flowers, blit 
they are dull mid ineffective. The merit of 
the plant is its fragrance, and, as it can be 
readily struck from cuttings and grows freely 
upon warm soils, it should be treated as half 
hardy, and young stock be raised and planted 
out every year. Junipers and Escallonia 
macrantha have also a nice fragrance, whilst 
in the Rose family there is a variety of 
delicate odours in the leaves as well as the 
flowers, the best known and most appreciated 
being the Sweet Brier, which should be found 
in every garden. 


NOTES AND REPLIES . 

Pruning Crataegus Pyracantha— I have a 
Cra-ttegus Pyracantha very rnnch overgrown, on cast 
wall. Please tell me the bc.<t way and time to 
prune? It has grown out from wall, and only a few 
berries on top. It has been very much neglected.— 
H. E. M. 

[When the Crataegus has been allowed to 
grow wild in the manner described, it should 
be pruned hard back to the wall. The next 
year’s display of berries will be curtailed, 
but unless you treat it as suggested above it 
will go from bad to worse. We once had 
under our care a plant that was in the same 
condition as yours, and we cut it hard back in 
November, with the result that (lie second 
year after pruning there was an excellent 
crop of berries.] 

Propagating shrubs.-No doubt many 
readers of Gardening Illustrated who 
have gardens often wish to increase tlieir 
shrubs or bushes, especially of the best things 
of their respective kinds. Once into October 
we have then the best time for taking nice 
hard, well-ripened shoots, making cuttings cf 
them, and planting them in the open ground, 
where they may remain undisturbed for a 
year, when these cuttings will have rooted 
and be quite fit to lift and replant elsewhere 
to grow into size. Of evergreens, such as 
Laurels, Laurest inns. Ivies, Aticubas, 
Euonymus, and similar things, cuttings may 
range from 6 inches to 12 inches long. With 
shrubs which lose their leaves, such as 
Flowering Currants, Mock Oranges. Bar¬ 
berries, Forsvthias, and many others, also 
Currants, Gooseberries, and Brambles, cut¬ 
tings may well range from 10 inches to 
12 inches long, but in nil cases should be of 
firm, well-ripened wood, otherwise they will 
not stand winter frost. Cuttings of Rcs?s 
may range from 8 inches to 10 inches. Where 
it is proposed to insert cuttings, dig the 
ground deeply, working into it, well down, 
a light dressing of wcll-decaved manure. 
Next take the shoots and make them into 
cuttings, the length to be proportioned to the 
stoutness of the shoot. Set the tallest into an 
upright drill or furrow, cut down in the soil 
by a spade, and strew sharp grit or sand 
along the bottom cm which the cuttings may 
rest. Let alL the cuttings be buried to one- 
half their length, the soil, when filled in, to 
be firmly trodden nbout them. Each cutting 
must have a clean cut close under a leaf-bud 
or joint, and a few of the bottom leaves 
should be removed. Let the rows of cuttings 
be 12 inches apart.—A. D. 

Parrotia persica. -This is very rarely seen, ex¬ 
cept in botanical gardens. though in sonic situations 
at. least the palm must be Riven it for the brilliant 
combination of deep-red and golden-amber which its 
leaves present in the autumn. 


“The English Flower Garden and Home 
Grounds ’ AVir Ei!itinn, 10th, revised, with descrip¬ 
tions of all the best plants, trees, and shrubs, their 
culture and arrangement, illustrated on wood. Cloth, 
medium Sco, 15s.; post free, 15s. 6d. 

“The English Flower Garden” may also be 
had finely bound in 2 vols., half vellum, 2J»s. nett. Of 

"“'tlNtVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 









m 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Noyembsh 16, 1907 


GARDEN WORK. 

Conservatory.— Abutilons, which have 

been cut back towards the end of June, and 
grown outside with the Chrysanthemums in 
summer, will make useful flowering plants at 
this season, and continue blooming for some 
time in a light house. 1 have used the white 
variety Boule dc Neige planted in the con¬ 
servator}' on an arch, and very effective it 
was for a long time in winter. * The flowers 
also are useful in a cut state. There arc 
other varieties which are useful, either 
planted out or grown as bushes in pots. 
They are easily propagated from cuttings of 
the young wood in spring and summer, and, 
when j)inched frequently during growth, they 
make useful flowering plants in winter iii 
0 inch pole. There is always a demand for 
white flowers, and the Pea flowered Swain- 
sonia galegifolia alba is useful used with its 
own foliage. Troprcolum Comet is very 
bright in winter. It belongs to the Lobbi- 
anum section, and is very bright in baskets 
in the conservatory, and I have seen it 
planted out in the conservatory border, run 
up wires into the roof, and then encouraged 
to ramble and festoon about. In a night 
temperature of 50 degs. it continues to grow, 
and flowers all winter. Some time ago I saw 
it associated with Cobiea scandens variegata, 
and it was exceedingly attractive. The house 
was lofty, and the variegated trails of the 
Cobsea in association with the scarlet and 
green of the Tropteolum made a very charm¬ 
ing picture at a very small ccst—in fact, 
many of the beet garden features, both in¬ 
doors and outdoors, have often been created 
from common materials. There is a carmine 
variety of Primula obconica which is just 
now very effective in a good-sized group in a 
cool house. I saw a very good variety of 
this Primula at Messrs. Paul’s, at Cheshunt, 
some time ago, an improvement on most of 
the varieties I have met with. Some object 
to the presence of these plants, but they are 
quite harmless if not handled. I have never 
experienced any ill effect from working 
among them, and susceptible persons should 
wear gloves when handling them. Zonal 
Pelargoniums should be watered with care 
now. If they have too much water, they 
soon lose tone, and they seldom recover. They 
are best grown in rather small pots for win¬ 
ter blooming. 

Warm plant-house. —There is always work 
to be done, apart from the routine work of 
watering. Change of position is, I think, 
always beneficial here. When one has an 
hour to spare, re-arrange the plants, and 
bring those which are opening their flowers 
into a more prominent position. When I 
have been dissatisfied with things, a re-ar- 
rangement gave an opportunity for closer 
examination. We then can see if the man 
with the water-pot has done his work pro¬ 
perly. No one ought to make a mistake in 
watering if he takes the trouble to tap the 
pot; and, besides, when one is shifting things 
about, he can see if there are any insects on 
the plants, and take measures for their 
destruction while they are few in number, 
and more easily dealt’ with. Thrips, if per¬ 
mitted, will soon take the freshness from 
Crotons and other smooth-leaved plants, and 
it is much easier to kill a few of them than 
when they are many. The white and brown 
scale insects are horrid things, and if left 
alone for a short time, they will spread 
rapidly on Palms and other things. The 
remedy for thrips is vaporising with nicotine, 
and it, is generally cheaper to work the 
vaporising lamp through all plant-houses, es¬ 
pecially warm-houses, once a month or so, 
than wait for the insects to increase and 
multiply. Scale, brown and white, are diffi¬ 
cult to get rid of if neglected for a lime. 
The best remedy for these insects is to 
destroy the plants, unless they are very 
valuable, and start clean again. 

The Crape-room is a very useful adjunct 
where many Grapes are grown, because 
Grapes at this season will keep better in a 
steady temperature of 45 degs. than a fluc¬ 
tuating one under glass; moreover, it is a 
great convenience to gardeners to be able to 
cut and bottle the Grapes. There will bo 
drip in the best constructed vineries. When 
the house is cleared, the pruning, cleaning, 

Digitize, by GOOgk 


and renovation of the borders, if necessary, 
may be attended to. There is one thing that 
ought to be avoided in the Grape room, and 
that is, be careful about stirring up dust. 

Renovating borders in fruit-houses.— 
The best treatment for fruit-trees, either 
under glass or outside, is to place some good 
loam, fortified with artificial plant-food, 
round or near the roots. If the roots are 
lifted and shortened, and a few bushels of 
good loam placed around them, they will 
start away at once, and, being near the sur¬ 
face, there will be no grossness in the re¬ 
sulting growth. Most of us have something 
to learn yet as regards the lifting and feeding 
of the roots of fruit-trees, especially those 
whose heads arc under glass. Happy is the 
man that has a pasture-field to run to for a 
supply of turfy loam. This is the season 
for carting in a supply for border-making 
and potting. Pines and Strawberries must 
have good loam. 

Late Tomatoes. —These cannot be grown 
now without heat. To have the fruits firm 
and well coloured, the plants should have a 
night temperature of not less than 55 degs. I 
have generally run our house on till Christ¬ 
mas or later by training in the young shoots, 
which have set a good lot of fruit during the 
autumn. If the fruits are set during Octo¬ 
ber, they will continue ripening till after 
Christmas, and I have carried them on so as 
to meet the young plants coming on. It does 
not pay to grow winter Tomatoes only in this 
way. Thus, the house can be filled with 
other things coming on, such as bulbs, Ferns, 
etc., and. of course, they will have to be 
trained thinly, so as not to shade or darken 
the house too much. One often has to do 
several things in one house, when the most 
has to be made of the means available. 

. Bulbs in the house. —Hyacinths may be 
started in glasses now, or planted in bowls 
of fibre. Only single-flowered kinds should 
be grown in water. Narcissi in variety may 
be grown in fibre, to which lias been added 
a little artificial plant food. There must be 
no attempt at forcing till 6ome roots are 
made. A cool, dark cupboard, or shelf, is 
the best place for the first month or 60 . 

Outdoor garden.— All Rose enthusiasts do 
a little budding, and this is the usual time 
to look up and plant standard Briers, and 
plant cuttings to grow into dwarf stocks. To 
have dwarf stocks free from suckers all the 
buds should be removed from the lower part. 
Cuttings that were planted last year may now 
be transplanted at suitable distances for 
budding, leaving room enough beween the 
rows to work comfortably. To raise seedling 
Briers the hips may be gathered when ripe 
and buried in sand for a time, to soften the 
cuticle, sowing the seeds about February or 
March. Roses in all forms may be planted 
now. There arc beautiful things in the 
Rambler and Wichuraiana Roses. Where 
there is room for free growth and banks to 
be covered they may be planted freely in 
variety. Trees and shrubs are moving well 
now', and all kinds of spring flowers should 
be got in without delay. More is being done 
with Tulips, especially the late-flowering 
varieties. Narcissi also are good and cheap. 
Some of the new varieties are expensive, but 
the best older kinds are cheap, and the bulbs 
sound and good. In some of the early Tulips 
the bulbs are rather smaller than usual—at 
least, our imported bulbs are smaller. 

Fruit garden. -There is a good deal of 
work waiting to be done now. The leaves 
will soon l>e down, and then pruning may be¬ 
gin. In this matter I do not think we need 
follow the extremists. Some are urging us 
not to prune at all. Others are, 1 think, 
pruning too bard, but there is a medium 
course that will, in the Jong run, be the most 
satisfactory. The unpruned tree usually 
bears small fruits, and there is no place for 
inferior fruits in our markets. In early life 
the tree is pruned to make a shapely, well- 
balanced tree—afterwards prune to secure 
good fruit, which means that the growth 
should be sufficiently thinned to let in the 
sunshine. In the case of any tree which has 
been thinned in a reasonable manner, and 
when the roots are encouraged by rich sur¬ 
face-dressings, to keep within the influence 
of solar warmth, there will be no difficulty in 


securing regular crops of fruit, if the garden 
or orchard is reasonably sheltered. No one 
should plant orchards or fruit gardens in a 
bleak, exposed place without planting shelter 
within a suitable distance. It is very desir¬ 
able to have a few young trees coming on 
ready for vacancies. 

Vegetable garden. —A few strong roofs of 
an early kind of Rhubarb may I*? lifted and 
placed in the Mushroom house, or be covered 
with pots and surrounded with leaves and 
manure. As soon as the crow’ns are ripe, 
some roots of Seakale may be lifted, the 
thongs cut off, and laid in for planting in 
spring, to produce crowns for next season’s 
forcing. Seakale roots or crowns may he 
taken up in considerable numbers as soon as 
ripe, and be laid in on the north side of a wall 
near the Mushroom-house, from whence 
batches of roots may be taken for forcing as 
required. Though I mention the Mushroom- 
house for forcing Seakale, it can be forced 
anywhere in a temperature of 55 degs. or so, 
in a dark, close place. It may be forced 
in deep, close boxes, the crowns planted 
3 inches apart. The boxes should have close- 
fitting lids, and may be placed under the 
stage in a warm-house. Rhubarb may be 
forced under similar conditions. If forced in 
the Mushroom-house, the preparation of the 
manure for the beds should be carried on in 
an open shed near. If the ammonia escapes 
in the houses where Rhubarb and Seakale 
are forced, the produce may have an earthy 
taste. ‘ E. Hobday. 


THE COMING WEEK'S WORK. 

Extracts from a Garden Diary. 

November 18th.— Tree planting and pruning 
are now the most important work in hand. 
We begin with the bush trees, and as fast as 
the pruners finish a quarter of the garden, 
others follow to clean up cuttings and leaves ; 
and every frosty morning manure is wheeled 
on to those spots which require it. It is then 
forked in, and the ground is made neat for 
the winter. 

November 19th.— As rubbish accumulates a 
fire is lighted in the rubbish-yard, and this 
is kept smouldering tilL all the rubbish about 
the place becomes a black, charred mass, and 
then, as opportunity offers, it is screened 
and the fine stuff is kept in reserve for cover¬ 
ing seeds, top-dressing flower-beds, and other 
purposes. Pears on walls are now being 
pruned. Good fruit cannot be obtained from 
unpruned trees. 

November 20th.— Shifted on Calceolarias of 
the herbaceous section, moving them at the 
same time from the frames to a house from 
which frost can be kept out, which is all 
these plants require. Bulbs are still being 
planted, and the surplus will be planted round 
the margins of the shrubberies or in informal 
groups on the lawn. Narcissi in variety are 
charming in scattered groups. 

November 21st. —Dahlias and Gladioli have 
been lifted. Begonias and Cannas have been 
laid on the border in the Peach-house for a 
time, to ripen. Planted a group of herbace¬ 
ous Pseonies in an open spot in the wilder¬ 
ness. Some additions will be made to the 
rock garden, as some of the plants are too 
crowded. We generally buy a few new things 
every spring. 

November 22nd. —Repotted Pelargoniums. 
These, after repotting, will occupy a stage 
near the glass. This refers only to what are 
termed show and fancy varieties. Shifted on 
small Ferns. Where a collection of Ferns is 
raised from spores and by division, there are 
always young plants to be shifted on, and 
where warmth can be given there is no stop¬ 
page in this work at any season. Roses arc 
being planted in various positions. More is 
done with climbers—either up poles, or over 
arches, or on walls. 

November 23rd. —Saturday is generally a 
day for tidying up, and as we do not care to 
do more Sunday work than is possible, every 
plant under glass is carefully examined, and, 
where water is necessary, it is given freely. 
Liquid-manure is given freely to such plants 
as Cyclamens, Cinerarias, and late-flowering 
Chrysanthemums. These are now making a 
brave show. Market iRed is making a good 
group, and the flowers are nice, for cutting. 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 




Kovember 16, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


505 


POULTRY. 

FEATHER-PICKING : ITS CAUSE AND 
CURE. 

There are few habits to which fowls are 
addicted more annoying or disgusting than 
that of feather-picking, and thus, once it 
makes its appearance m a poultry-yard, no 
efforts should be spared to eradicate it as 
speedily as possible. Feather picking is not, 
as is frequently supposed, a disease, but is 
merely a bad habit, which has been con¬ 
tracted owing to some fault in the manage¬ 
ment, or perhaps has beeu introduced into 
the yard by an imported bird. As a general 
rule, fowls kept in confinement are more 
liable to it than are those at liberty, and 
among adult fowls it is more prevalent than 
among young stock. The habit is often ac¬ 
quired during the moulting period, when the 
ground is strewn with the cast-off feathers, 
in w'hich case the birds possibly commence 
picking them up merely by way of amuse¬ 
ment. It is advisable, if a fowl is caught in 
the act of pulling out another’s feathers, and 
if it is merely an ordinary, and not a valu¬ 
able bird, to wring its neck at once, because, 
being a habit, it is very easily acquired by 
the other fowls, until the whole flock becomes 
affected. If, on the other hand, the bird is 
a valuable one, either from a utility or ex¬ 
hibition standpoint, it is worth while taking 
pains to cure it, although in so doing a good 
deal of patience may be necessary. 

There are three exciting causes of feather¬ 
picking, chief among which is uncleanliness. 
In poultry-yards where this very important 
matter does not receive the attention it de¬ 
mands, the birds become infested with ver¬ 
min, which set up a certain amount of irrita¬ 
tion, to overcome which the fowls are con¬ 
stantly picking at their own or others’ 
feathers. In order to keep down vermin, 
the birds should be regularly dusted with a 
disinfectant powder, the most essential parts 
being under the wings, on the breast, and on , 
the back; the houses in which they sleep 
should bo kept scrupulously clean, and the 
ends of the perches and the slots into which 
they fit washed out occasionally with paraffin 
oil. Another cause of feather picking is 
idleness, and particularly is this the case 
during the, winter months, when the fowls 
cannot wander about, and have to remain 
under shelter most of the day. Provided 
there is a scratching-shed attached to the 
house, the difficulty is easily overcome. If 
the floor is covered with straw or chaff, and 
the grain always scattered thereamong, it 
affords the birds plenty of exercise and occu¬ 
pation. A Mangel or Cabbage should be sus¬ 
pended from the roof, just out of reach of the 
birds, as the constant jumping up to peck 
at it provides them with an abundance of 
work and amusement. The third cause of 
this complaint is lack of animal food, and in 
this case the difficulty can be easily and 
quickly overcome. A little lean meat, 
cooked, chopped up finely, and mixed with 
the morning mash, provides them with what 
they want. When a large number of fowls 
are kept, it pays to buy one of the many 
specially prepared granulated meats, of which 
there are some excellent kinds upon the 
market. 

In mentioning the three exciting causes of 
feather-picking, the remedies have been sug¬ 
gested, and, as everyone agrees that pre¬ 
vention is very much better than cure, care 
should he taken that the utmost cleanliness 
is observed, both in the birds themselves and 
their surroundings: that exercise in one form 
or another is provided, especially during the 
winter months; and that a plentiful supply 
of animal food is included in the dietary. 
There are a few so-called cures, however, 
that may be tried if none of the foregoing 
are successful, and, although I have never 
personally tried them, I have met many who 
have, and who have found them quite 
reliable. 

A very old-fashioned remedy, and a com¬ 
paratively simple one, is to pare the inside 
edge of each mandible in such a manner that 
when the bird grips a feather, it slips through 
the benk; the fowl thus finding it impos¬ 
sible to pull it out, verw'qiftcklv gives Jp the 
attempt. A hairpin paLsecL {h*;iig (nos¬ 


trils in such a way that it cannot slip, with 
the ends twisted so that one projects back¬ 
wards and the other forwards, is a method 
recommended by some, but it always ap¬ 
pears as unnecessarily cruel. Each time the 
culprit tries to take hold of a feather, it 
pricks the other bird with the hairpin, so 
causing it to jump away. There are other 
methods, such as cutting the lower mandible 
away or painting the birds with an evil- 
smelling preparation; but if suitable precau¬ 
tions arc taken, the habit should not be 
acquired, or, if acquired, very quickly over¬ 
come. E. T. B. 


BIRDS. 

Treatment of goldfinch (Sabinas). Gold¬ 
finches under confinement may be allowed a 
great variety of food; Canary-seed, Rape, 
Hemp, Flax, Millet, Maw-seed, and Groats 
all being relished by them. When Thistles 
are ripening it is a good plan to secure a 
supply for use during the winter. For green 
food, Groundsel. Chickweed, Dandelion, and 
Lettuce will be relished by them. The allow¬ 
ance of Hemp should be somewhat limited, as 
it tends to darken the plumage. Goldfinches 
should have a roomy cage, as they are natur¬ 
ally lively, and require plenty of exercise. 


BOOKS. 

“REPORT ON INJURIOUS INSECTS. ”* 
The fourth annual report on injurious in¬ 
sects and other animals, observed in the Mid¬ 
land Counties during 1906. has recently been 
issued by Mr. W. E. Coll inge. This report 
is well illustrated and printed, and is full 
of most useful information concerning animal 
pests, and should be in the hands of every¬ 
one interested in the cultivation of plants. 
As many as forty-eight insects, eel-worms, 
and mites are reported on, most of which are 
only too familiar to gardeners and others in¬ 
terested in agriculture and horticulture. A 
new pest to Black Currants is mentioned—a 
small moth belonging to the family Tortri- 
ciche (Spilonota roborana). Its caterpillars 
feed on the fruit, and when full grown they 
undergo their first transformation and be¬ 
come chrysalides on the bushes. This is a 
common insect. The caterpillars generally 
infest the shoots of Roses, and this is the 
first record of them attacking Black Currants. 
The caterpillars of another small moth 
(Argyrethesia conjugella),one of the Tineidse, 
were found attacking Cherries, their final 
food being the berries of the Mountain Ash. 
The “Pear-midge” (Diplosis pyrivora) is a 
very destructive pest, and one which has 
spread very much during the last few years. 
The easiest way of destroying it is to turn 
over the soil under the trees so as to bury the 
chrysalides, which are formed in the ground 
about 3 inches below the surface, some 
5 inches or 6 inches deep. In case this can¬ 
not be done, from fear of injuring the roots 
of the trees, spreading a layer of earth not 
less than 4 inches thick under the trees is 
recommended, for the flies, when they emerge 
from their chrysalides will not be able to 
make their way through such a thickness of 
soil. Of course, the earth must not be placed 
under the trees until all the grub6 have 
buried themselves. Kainit, which is so often 
recommended, is said to be useless, but many 
|kmvsoiks who have used it speak most favour¬ 
ably of it. Of course, much depends upon 
how and when it is applied. 

Following the introduction is a report of 
experiments with insecticides. Two are men¬ 
tioned which are said to be excellent. They 
are alluded to as V. 1 and V. 2. The former 
is for use as spray-fluid for winter use; the 
other for summer use. They have been tested 
by various persons, who give them unstinted 
praise. Unfortunately, they are not yet on 
the market, and their manufacture requires 
more chemical knowledge and apparatus 
than ordinary persons possess. In the report 
on wire worms it is stated that “The experi- 


* " Report on Injurious Insects and Other Animals 
Observed in the Midland Counties during 1900.” Price, 
2s. ed. Cornish Bros., Birmingham, 


meuts with ‘vaporite’ as a' remedy for wire- 
worms have been continued with great suc¬ 
cess,” and, later on, “From actual experi¬ 
ments, I am convinced of the value of 
'vaporite’ as a remedy.” Two photographs 
are given of different parts of the same field 
of swedes. One was treated with vaporite, 
the other was not. The difference between 
the two is very marked. There are two ap¬ 
pendices—(A) Instructions for using hydro¬ 
cyanic gas and bisulphide of carbon, which 
are very useful, particularly when the poison¬ 
ous nature of these compounds is remem¬ 
bered. (B) Contains an account of the trans¬ 
formations that insects undergo, which should 
prove very useful to those who have no know¬ 
ledge of entomology. A few mistakes have 
escaped the “eagle eye” of the editor. On 
p. 30 an ichneumon-fly is said to have carried 
caterpillars into a plant-house. The observer 
probably mistook one of the solitary or fos* 
6 orial wasps for an ichneumon. There are 
one of two cases of names being misspelt. 
The ash bark beetle is not Hylescinus, but 
Hylesinus; the flour-moth, Ephestia kuh- 
nielln, not E. kuehniella. We are very sorry 
to find that there is a possibility of this being 
the last of this very interesting series of re¬ 
ports, which do not appear to have been a 
financial success. These reports only require 
to be better known to have a large sale, which 
they do not appear to have at present. The 
South-Eastern Agricultural College, at Wye, 
publishes a “Report on Economic Zoology.” 
which deals with insect pests,etc.,much on the 
same lines as that for the Midland Counties. 
It would be probably cheaper for each publica¬ 
tion, and it would certainly be more con¬ 
venient for their clientele . if the valuable in¬ 
formation contained in them could be ob¬ 
tained in one volume. 


UNITED HORTICULTURAL BENEFIT 
AND PROVIDENT SOCIETY. 

The twenty-first annual dinner of this, wo 
are glad to sav, very flourishing society was 
held on the night of Friday, November 1st, 
in the Holborn Restaurant, Sir Albert Rollit, 
LL.D., D.C.L., in the chair. Among those 
present we noted Messrs. H. J. Veitch, H. B. 
Mav, Joseph Cheal, etc. The usual loyal 
toasts having been given, the chairman sub¬ 
mitted the toast of “Success to the United 
Horticultural Benefit and Provident Society,” 
and in the course of his remarks said that this 
society was in no sense a charity, but a self- 
help institution, confined to gardeners only, 
and it ought, therefore, to receive their ear¬ 
nest consideration. He found, he said, in 
dealing with the actuarial report of 1905, 
that the number of applications in that year 
for sick benefit should have been 3,590, upon 
the average of actuarial statistics; but only 
43 per cent, of that number of applications 
were actually made. In other words, the 
health of the*members, judging by the appli¬ 
cations for sick pay, was consistently good. 
“The United” had evidently solved the 
question of old age pensions. The chairman, 
who has had great experience as a manager 
of savings’ bank funds, declared that “The 
United” was ono of the very best of the 
friendly societies. He was glad to find that 
its investments were confined to Corporation 
stocks, which, he said, were always safe, 

The Chairman of Committee (Mr. Chas. 
H. Curtis), in responding for the society, 
said its investments were now £30.000, and 
the number of members was 1,200. 

In the course of the evening. Mr. James 
Hudson, V.M.H., who had been treasurer for 
25 years, and who has now resigned, was the 
recipient of a very handsome testimonial, in 
the shape of a silver tea and coffee set and 
his portrait, handsomely framed in dark oak. 
Sir Albert Rollit, in a few well-chosen words, 
made the presentation. Mr. Hudson thanked 
tin members for their handsome present, 
which would be an honoured family heirloom. 
There were several other toasts on the pro¬ 
gramme. The tables were nicely decorated 
with fruit, flowers, and plants. 

The secretary of the above society is Mr. 
W Collins, 9, Martindale^road, Balham, who 
is always ready to give any information- to 
intending applicants for membership. 


, 500 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Kovjomuku 10, 1907 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

Questions. —Queries and answers are inserted in 
Gardening free of charge if correspondents follow these 
rules: All communications should be clearly and concisely 
written on one side of the paper only, and addressed to 
the Editor of Gardening, 17, Fumival-street, Holborn, 
London, E.C. Letters on business should be sent to the 
Publisher. The name and address of the sender arc 
required in addition to any designation he may desire to 
be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, 
each should be on a separate piece of paper, ami not more 
than three queries should be. sent at a time. Correspon¬ 
dents should bear in mind that, as Gardening has to be 
sent to press some time in advance of date, queries cannot 
always be replied to in the issue immediately following 
the receipt of their communication. We do not reply to 
queries by jtost. 

Naming’ fruit. - Readers who desire our help in 
naming fruit should bear in mind that several sjtedmcns 
in different stages of colour and size of the same kind 
greatly assist in its determination. We have read red from 
several correspondents single specimens of fruits for 
naming, these, in many eases being unripe and other¬ 
wise poor. The differences between varieties of fruits are 
in many cases so trifling that it is necessary that three 
specimens of each kind should be sent. We ca n undertake 
to name only four varieties at a time, and these only ivhcn 
the above directions are observed. 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

Fungus on lawn (.4. A'.).— I cannot give you the 
information you require without seeing specimens of 
the fungus. Please send some up in a box, and I 
will tell you what 1 can about it.—G. 8. 8. 

Salvia Horminuni (G. N. .S’.).—This is the name 
of the plant a specimen of which you send. It comes 
from the South of Europe, and is an annual. The 
plants stand drought and had weather, are easily 
raised from seeds in February, and do better in poor 
soils than in those that are rich and very fertile. 
The sprays are useful for cutting, and the plant 
frequently sows itself. 

Cutting Pampas Grass plumes (John).—The 
correct date for cutting the plumes varies with the 
season and locality. To have them in good condition 
they should be cut just before they arc fully ex¬ 
panded. then taken into a warm room and hung up, 
where they will open freely. If left on the plants 
until they are fully expanded they become dirty, 
and when taken into the house do not improve, and 
are very inferior in beauty to the soft, silky plumes 
that are cut just before they are properly developed. 

Rabbits and liardy plants (G .).—It is useless 
to set out anything but the strongest-growing plants 
where rabbits are numerous, and even then, if the 
season is a hard one and the rabbits plentiful, there 
are very few things that they will not touch. 
Solomon's Seal, Iris germanica. and Campanula pyra- 
iriidalis they will not harm; but, to be on the safe 
side, the best way is to surround your garden with 
wire-netting, burying one side about 4 inches into the 
soil, as, if this is not done, the rdbbits will scratch 
under it and find their way into the garden. 

Rhododendron Lady Alice Fitzwilliam (Miss 
Hadden ).—This is the result of a cross between R. 
Edgeworth! and R. Gibsoni. The flowers, pure white, 
sometimes marked on the outside of the tube with a 
faint streak of rosy-pink, arc borne in trusses of from 
three to five, each bloom measuring 4 inches across 
and in some cases 4J inches. It is valuable in the 
conservatory as much for the fragrance of the flowers 
as anything else. It docs well in a cold greenhouse, 
and may be described as half-hardy. We do not 
think you would And it succeed in the open air in 
Surrey. 

Passion flower failing (G. S.).-Wc arc assum¬ 
ing that the Passion-flower is growing in the open. 
Seeing that it is on a south border with a gravel 
subsoil, the probability is that dryness at the root, 
and poorness of soil are the cause of the failure. 
Give the plant a soaking of water, and then put on a 
mulch of good rotten manure, and, if the weather is 
open, another soaking of water to wash the goodness 
of the manure down to the roots. Next spring, when 
growth starts, renew the mulching and water fre¬ 
quently. In such a soil as yours Passion-flowers 
require abundance of water. 

Making a tennis lawn (A. McM.). — A full-sized 
tennis-court is 78 feet by 36 feet, and it is usual to 
allow 10 feet at either end and 6 feet on either side. 
This brings the total length to OH feet, and the 
breadth to 4.s feet. Seeing you arc making it for a 
club, you should have it, if you can, 100 feet long 
and 50 feet wide, and you will then have an ample 
margin outside the court. You will find a note re 
•• Making a gravel tennis-court ” in our issue of Octo¬ 
ber 10th, p. 448. The cost of the formation would 
depend on the price of the materials and the price 
of labour in your part of the country. Turf is by 
fur the best for a tennis-lawn, the only advantage in 
an asphalte surface being that you can use it after 
a heavy shower of rain. 

What to grow in window-boxes (Window 
Gardening).-We scarcely know what reply to give 
to your question as to Roses and Clematises being 
grown on the very limited space of a window-sill in 
wire boxes, as we cannot conceive of anyone attempt¬ 
ing a ta>k that is onlv destined to end. In failure. 
Until Roses and Clematises, if worth growing at all. 
must be given good, deep soil, where the plants will 
come under the influence of rain as well as sun. and 
where they will have plenty of room to develop their 
roots, neither of which, of course, is possible on a 
window-sill, even in a wooden box. We do not under 
stand what you mean by wire boxes. Receptacles 
must be constructed of wood that will hold toil, and 
any ornamentation, such as tiles or cork, must be an 
after consideration. There are many plants, of 
course, that will succeyPou a window-ledle, but not 
those you name. JusUnow, ant*,!boxes may 

be filled with bulbs JyfiJsV.Narcissi, 


Snowdrops, Crocuses, etc., or spring-flowering plants, 
as Wallflowers. Forget-me-not s, may be put in. Small 
.shrubs would look well for the winter. Many firms 
advertising in Gardening Illustrated would supply 
you. We do not make a practice of recommending 
any particular firm. “Town Gardening,” published 
at this office, would, probably, meet your require¬ 
ments. 

Keeping Pelargoniums in winter (B.). — Had 
you given us some idea as to where you are keeping 
the Pelargoniums or whether they are cuttings put 
in last autumn or plants that have been lifted from 
the beds, we could have helped you more. We will, 
however, assume that the plants referred to are cut¬ 
tings struck last autumn, in which case, if they have 
been well exposed before being housed, so as to get 
the wood firm, they will stand a much lower tempera¬ 
ture than if the shoots were gross and sappy. If 
you arc keeping them in a low temperature, tin: 
plants must be kept dry at the top, and they will 
seldom need water at the root. Keep all decayed 
leaves picked off, and if the temperature docs not 
fall below 36 digs, the plants may lie wintered with 
success. A higher temperature than this minimum 
one would be better if it could be given. 

New hardy plants (J. B .).—We think the follow¬ 
ing will be useful to you, if you do not already pos¬ 
sess them. We give the approximate heights of the 
plants: — Heletiium pumilum magnilicum, yellow, 
21 feet; Phlox Mrs. E. 11. Jenkins, snow-white. 
3J feet; Incarvillea Delavayi. rosy-red, 2J feet: Gyp- 
sophila paniculata fl.-pl., white, 2 feet; Aubrietia 
Dr. Mules, deep rich violet, 6 inches; Campanula car¬ 
nation Riverslea, violet-blue, 1| feet; Inula glandu- 
losa, yellow, 2 feet; Monarda didyma (not new), 
scarlet, 3 feet; Campanula Moerheimi, white, 2 feet; 
Phlox Etna, fine red. 3 feet; Adonis amurensia fl.-pl., 
yellow and green, 11 feet; Aster Finchley White, 

2 feet; Iris sibirien Snow Queen. 21 feet; Hemero- 
callis Dr. Kegel, apricot, 21 feet; Chrysanthemum 
maximum King Edward N'll., white, 3 feet: Pnpayer 
Queen Alexandra, salmon. 2 feet; A.stilbe Davidi, 
reddish, 5 feet; Aconitum Wilsoni, blue. G feet. We 
do not claim that the.se are absolute novelties, but 
the majority are of modern introduction, and all are 
highly -desirable subject s. 

TREES AND SURUBS. 

Cutting back Privet hedge (A. If B .).—An old 

Privet-hedge such as yours is often very erratic in 
breaking into growth, but, with care, can generally 
be induced to fill up again. It is always advisable to 
keep such a hedge within bounds while young. We 
should advise you to leave the cutting buck till next 
March, and even then you must expect some parts of 
it to be very bare for u considerable time. 

Magnolia grandiflora. pruning (AT. •/ 

The tops of this branch naturally, and all that you 
need do is to spread them out thinly and keep the 
growths secured to the wall or trellis. The strongest 
branches must he fastened to the wall by means of 
strips of leather and strong nails, the side shoots 
being secured to these. The branches ought not- to 
he closely trained, or so much as to present a pain¬ 
fully neat appearance. It may be advisable to cut 
out a branch where too thick, but the less pruning 
you give the better. 

FRUIT. 

Medlar jelly (Mary Jackson). Take some ripe 
Medlars, wash them, arid put them into a preserving- 
pan with as much water as will cover them. Simmer 
them slowly, and when they become a pulp strain 
through a jolly-bag, and to every pint of the liquid 
add 1 lb. of loaf sugar. Boil till clear (say, for an 
hour). When cold it should be a stiff jelly. 

Grapes failing (Enquirer). Please send a few- 
more particulars. Do you use the house for other 
plants, and what temperature do you keep up? 
What is the length of the rod on which you say you 
have twenty-four bunches? It seeing to us that 
over cropping is the cause of the failure. Judging 
from the piece of wood affixed to the hunch you 
send, the Vine is evidently very weak, thus confirm¬ 
ing our opinion that you are cropping too heavily. 

Almond-tree fruiting (Almond tree).- Almond- 
trees of the ordinary standard or ornamental form 
fruit freely almost every year. The variety you speak 
of is. no doubt, the hitter-fruited form (Amygdalus 
communis ainara). The fruits, even when carefully 
preserved, are inferior to those purchased in the 
shops. The Sweet Almond must be grown on a wall 
in the same way as a Peach, hut, as it blooms so 
early, the blooms are, as a rule, killed by frost, 
being evidently more tender than those of the Bitter 
Almond. 

Plums cracking (J• 11 .).—Examining the fruits 
of your Victoria Plums sent, one having quite rotted, 
we noted marks on them resembling the effects of 
blows or external injuiies as though struck by birds’ 
beaks or by the branches beating together, but may 
be originated by large insects perforating the skins. 
A little skin cracking often follows as the fruits 
soften or ripen when heavy rains fall, as then there 
is an excessive flow of sap or moisture to the fruits. 
You can do nothing useful to check the trouble now. 
No doubt, some two or three years will elapse ere the 
tree fruits again, aud then we may have a better 
summer. 

Apples cracking (Mrs. McGill). Had you gixeii 
us some particulars as to the age of the Apple-tree 
from which the specimens yon send were gathered, 
we could then have been better able to have helped 
you. As it is. we can only conclude the tree is a 
very old one, added to the fact that the roots are 
working in uncongenial soil. The trees are evidently 
in a bud condition altogether, little growth being 
made, and the soil exhausted. So many things lead 
up to the condition in which you find the Apples on 
this particular tree that it is not safe to advise in 
the absence of any particulars as to soil and subsoil, 
and of growth or the absence of it from the trees. 
If you will kindly send such particulars we wijl do 
our best to help you. 


VEGETABLES. 

Value of Moss-litter manure CL. /?.).—The 

value of Moss-litter lies in its capacity to absorb 
animal-manure, which it does thoroughly. To be of 
any value you must first use it in the stable, then 
throw it into a heap, turning it several times to 
sweeten it, but not to heat it. Treated thus it is 
useful as a mulching in the garden for all kinds of 
crops, but for digging into the ground we prefer well- 
decayed strawy manure. 

Improving clay soil (G. G .).—To improve clay 
soil, such substances as will render it more porous 
should be added to it. Road grit, old mortar rubble, 
wood ashes, burnt vegetable refuse, leaf-mould, and 
fresh manure from the stable with plenty of litter in 
it are all very suitable. The ground should be 
broken up and well trenched, two spits deep, in¬ 
corporating with the soil as the trenching proceeds a 
quantity of the materials mentioned above. 

Using green Tomatoes (.1. E. Wildridge).— 
You can convert them into chutney in the following 
way:—Put a pint of vinegar into a preserving pan 
with a pound of Demcrara sugar. Let this boil until 
the sugar is dissolved. Slice as many Tomatoes into 
this syrup as you wish to use with the same weight 
of Apples, peeled, cored, and cut into quarters, 1 oz. 
of bruised Ginger, six red Chilies. $ lb. Shallots, i lb. 
Sultanas, allowing i lb. of sugar and these spices for 
each pound of Apples and Tomatoes, salt to taste. 
Boil these well together, stirring all the time, until 
it is thick like jam a-nd sets firm when a little is 
dropped on a plate. Pour into hot glass-jars, cover 
when cold with well cleansed bladder, and store in a 
dry, cool place. 


SHORT REPLIES- 


J. Mallcll. — Write to the publishers of “Farm and 
Garden," 14$ and 14!), Aldersgate-street, London, E.C. 

- James Todd. — Hobday's “Villa Gardening" 

should, we fancy, answer your purpose. It can be 

had from this oflice.-.4. IP. J. — What do you mean 

by naval black, which has been used to paint your 
hot-water pipes? They ought to have been "painted 
with a mixture of lamp-black and Linseed-oil, and 
then you would have had no trouble.- Londonderry. 

Your Christinas Roses have been attacked by a 
fungus. See reply to “ Mrs. II. II.,” iu our issue of 

October 12th, p. 434. - H. E. S.— Your Celery has 

been attacked by the Celery-leaf blight (Cercospora 
apii. See reply to “ West Chillington," in our issue 

of October 5th, p. 420.- Bridport.—So many people 

use the noni de plume “Con-dunt Reader” that 
trouble arose, and we have been obliged to use 
another, such as the initials of the correspondent or 
the pla<e from which lie writes. It. 1 ).--We think 
it would be better to ask some practical gardener in 
the neighbourhood to look at the garden, and advise 
you what you had best do. You say nothing as to 
the depth of the soil, which is all important when 
planting fruit trees. We may say that the fences 
are really too low- for the growth or fruit trees.— 
G. .t. Ashton.— The seedling Carnation-bloom >on send 
is, we fear, of little use, as it is what is known as 
a " burster.” The colour is good, and the petals 
well formed. You .should grow it on, mid submit 
Idooms to the Floral Committee of the Royal Horti¬ 
cultural Society.- J. J. Boss.— You will find an 

article, " Forming a Rock-garden,” in our issue of 
December 23rd, 11)05, p. 560, a copy of which can be 
had of the publisher, post free, for lid. You should 
also get “ Alpine Flowers for Gardens," price 15s., 

from this oflice. - Culver.— 1, Ryecroft Scarlet is the 

variety to which we suppose you refer. This is a 
bright scarlet. 2, Koniga marit.ima is a synonym of 
Alyssum maritimum (the Sweet Alyssum). 3, The 
“ Manual of Conifers'.” Jas. Veiteli and Sons. Limited. 
Chelsea. S.W.- E. B. — You will find an article giv¬ 
ing full instructions at to making a border for 
Peaches in our issue of June 2nd, 1906. p. 182, a 
copy of which can be had from the publisher, post 

free, for l‘d. Your house is quite large enough.- 

M. F. l/.-We have never heard of such contrivances 
as you inquire about. You can purchase single speci¬ 
mens of Yews cut into the fantastic shapes you men¬ 
tion.— II. B. b.—You should get the “English 
Flower Garden" and “Greenhouse ami Stove Plants." 
from tills office. Perhaps “ Villa Gardening," by E. 
Hobday, would answer your purpose. This, too, can 
he had from this oflice. 


NAMES OF PLANTS AND FRUITS. 


Names of plants Douhlon .—The common Sal¬ 
sify or Vegetable Oyster. It has evidently sown 

itself.- Edward T<>utter. We cannot undertake to 

name florist flowers.- Bridport .—Uedyehium Gard- 

nerianurn.- J. Bulpitt.—l, Cotoneaster frigida; 2, 

Crattegus Pyracantha.-Mrs. Fullerton. — Statice 

sinuata. 

Names of fruit .—Ilerbcrt Cartmell .—Pear Benrrtf 

d’Aremlierg.— Westpark. — Pear Brown Beurrtf.- 

T. R. - Pears: 1, Louise Bonne of Jersey; 2, Beurrtl 
Fouqueray; 3, No flavour, not recognised.- II. Wood. 

Pears: 1. Bonne d’Aremberg; 2 mid 3, Plc:i>e send 
when ripe; 4. Apple not in condition.-- Richard 
Carroll. — Apple, cooking. Cellini, in u»e during thu- 
montli. 


atalogues received - "in. Haffcy, Mayfield 
•scry, Doiking-road. Tunbridge \V ell.-..- < hiy>ou- 

irmm Growers' Sole-book. -How'dell and C<‘, 

orness. — Niir.'try Li* l for Autumn, TJO-. and 
imj, l'JOH .— J. Backhouse and Son. Ltd.. York - 
iue mid Herbaceous Plants; Bulb Li<t: Lift »f 
■ es ; toner ruing Artificial Rock Gardius and What 
aid be Grown in Them. 

looks receives. Mowers and fruit for the 
no by Mrs. I. L. Richmond. t.R.ll.S T. N. 
ili'4 13 and PS, FMcrk-k-rtfpjy Kdlntrarnh. ami 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 

No. 1,498.—\ OL. XXIX. Founded by W. Robinson, Author of “The English Flower Garden." NOVEMBER 23, 1907. 


INDEX. 


Anemones, raising 
Apple trees, pruning, 
with garden shears .. 
Artichokes, Jerusalem 
Asparagus, forcing 
Autumn tints 

Azaleas. 

Cabbage, planting 

spring. 

Cam itanulas 
Carnation Mrs. Burnett. 
Celery-maggot, the 
Chrysanthemums 
Chrysanthemums, late 
outdoor .. 

Chrysanthemums. six 
outdoor, for aucces- 
sion . 


518 

Chrysanthemums, vases 


Fruit and vegetable 


Loganberry, ( he.. 

507 

Plants, flowering, in the 


518 

of Tompon 

515 

garden, renovating .. 

516 

Mountain Ash (Pyrus 


house . 

516 

Clematis Mmo. Baron 


Fruit garden 

516 

Aueuparia), tho 

509 

Plum crop, tho .. 

39/ 

516 

\ eillard. 

513 

Fruit-tree*, treatment of 

808 

Narcissus Pheasant'*- 


Plum Late Orange 

503 

516 

Conservatory 

516 

Carden diary, extracts 


eye . 

517 

Plum, the latest, Wye- 


509 

Crocuszonatus .. 

514 

from a. 

517 

Onions, pickling.. 

815 

dale . 

.503 

510 

Cucumbers, Wiutor 

816 

Gardening, front-door.. 

512 

Outdoor garden .. 

516 

Plum bago c&ponsis. pru- 


515 

Daisies on lawn .. 

81/ 

Garden peals and 


Outdoor plants .. 

513 

ning . 

517 

Diehoriaamlra thyrsi- 


friends. 

512 



Plumbago, treatment of 

518 

514 

flora . 

510 

Garden work 

516 

renovation of .. 

507 

Rosa Soulieana .. 

512 

510 

Kriea gracilis nivalis .. 

510 

Gas-lime, dressing with 
Greenhouse propagators 

316 

Pear Sanguinolu 

598 

Rose Alfred K. Wil- 


512 

Flower garden, work 


Mil 

Peas, Everlasting 
Pelargoniums, Zonal, in 

517 

barns . 

512 

615 

in the. 

513 

Hollyhocks diseased .. 

517 


Rose Marechul Niol, 


515 

Flowers, border* of fra;:- 


Hydrangeas, blue 

Indoor plants 

512 

winter . 

510 

pruning. 

518 

rant hardy 

514 

510 

Plant* and flowers 

310 

Rose Mum. Pol. Varin- 



Flowers dropping • 

,10 

Letieojum nutuimialo 


Plants, fiin' - foliaged, 


Bender. 

512 

517 

Foliage for cutting 

816 

(syn. Acta autumn- 


treatment of, in u 


Rose Mrs. Isa hollo Mil 


Forget-mo-not* .. 

514 

ulis) 

514 

house . 

512 

nor (Hybrid Tea) 

511 


Rotes . 

Rosea for border 
Roses, the finest, for 
effect in tho flower 
garden .. 

Room and window 
Ro y a 1 Horticultural 

Society. 

Stove . 

Tomatoes, early.. 

Trees and shrubs 
Vegetable garden 
Vegetable* 

Vinery in winter, the .. 
Violet La France, single 
Weed on lawn 
Week's work, the 
coming .. 


SI I 
SI 2 


511 

r»i2 

517 

r.ifi 

mo 

509 

517 
515 
508 
511 

518 

517 


FRUIT. 

THE LOGANBERRY. 

This is gaining popularity alike among pri¬ 
vate growers and the purchasing public. Bast 
experience proves that new fruits are slow in 
taking up a position in the market. They 
seem to live long in an experimental stage, as 
it were, and until they survive the prejudice 
that follows the new-comer, progress cannot 
be made. Judging from the ready sale there 
now is for the fruit of the Loganberry, it has 
passed the trial stages. There have not been 
many kinds of fruiting trees from America 
that can claim to be a perfect success in our 
gardens, though a few are useful. Among 
these must he claimed the fruit under notice. 
It is only for cooking that it commends itself, 
but there is room for the new-comer, because 
the palate tires of the limited choice of either 
slimmer or autumn fruits in a cooked state. 
Perhaps its vigorous habit of growth forms 
the most objectionable feature connected with 
it. for. with oidy limited space, there is sure 
to be inconvenience attending its culture, un¬ 
ices there should be space available against 
the lofty walls of dwellings or farm buildings. 
In vigorous health the canes grow to a lieig•» 
of from 10 feet to 16 feet in a season. Jf 
grown on a wire fence, in the same manner as 
we do Raspberries, ample room must be given 
between the stools, or a crowd of suckers, 
giving much trouble and confusion, results. 
Tho plants are somewhat impatient of re¬ 
moval—at least, it is found to be so in some 
soils -but on others they become much more 
quickly established. Like Raspberries, sucker 
growths issue in summer to replace the fruit¬ 
ing canes of the past season, and, though the 
old canes do not die down as do those of 
Raspberries after fruiting, a thinning out of 
the older canes is necessary. Some growers 
hud no trouble from birds, which are usually 
so keen aft'*r Raspberries ; but there is. 1 linn, 
no uniformity in the tastes of birds. Tho 
summer white throat gives much trouble 
among Raspberries, and. in my case, 
Loganberries, too. The Loganberry, being 
only in a trial stage, there wan not sufli 
cient opportunity of proving the extent of 
taste of birds for the fruit. My stock was re¬ 
moved into wire-enclosed quarters to check 
tho inroads of birds, but I know some can 
grow this unprotected, with only trifling loss 
through bird-raids. The fruits assume fine 
proportions, given suitable land and atten¬ 
tion, and the plants crop freely. Like Rasp¬ 
berries, the fruits seem to be more appro 
ciated in a cooked state, when some other 
kind of fruit is used with them. The fruits 
are claimed by some to be tit for dessert, 
which is quite permissible, because there is 
such an infinitely wide range of tastes to be 
catered for. I. therefore, look upoii them 
more as ft requirement of the kitchefl, The 
culture is comparatively easy, soil prepara¬ 
tion similar to that provided for Rasuberries 
being all that is neees/ary ;and a-tfvlLil ith 

a sunny aspect can b yse| yil/avt fop |\very 


little trouble is given beyond nailing and thin¬ 
ning of the advancing summer growth. Tho 
planting season now with us affords oppor¬ 
tunities for those desirous of taking up tho 
culture of the Loganberry, a few plants suf¬ 
ficing to eventually fill extensive trellising or 
wall-space. In light soils it may be necessary 
to apply a mulch of partially decayed manure, 
both to conserve moisture and to ensure an 
early ruot-liold. S. R. A. 


THE BLUM CROP. 

During tin* past few weeks several interest¬ 
ing articles have ap|R>ared in Gardening 
Illustrated auenl Blums. On opening the 
issue of September l! 1 st. at page 3^7, 1 noted 
the statement of “Wilts” that Blums had 
been sold at 5 lb. a penny ! Wishing to 
ascertain how this compared with the prices 
in Covent Garden and other markets, L asked 
a friend in the wholesale fruit trade, and 1 
found it quite correct. Growers in the 
country —especially small and private growers 
imagine such statements to be overdrawn. 
I. have hail ample evidence this season, both 
in country and town, that in seasons like the 
past it pays these growers better to sell their 
produce at home than to send it away. Dur¬ 
ing August and September I have seen Blums 
make double the price in western towns than 
could be obtained in London markets. Still, 
many when they have surplus fruit send it to 
big centres hoping to obtain high prices, 
whereas had they consigned it to a country 
shop they would have done better. With a 
glut of fruit there is an impression Hint it 
does not pay. In point of fact, these excep¬ 
tional prices arise from so many Plums that 
have no keeping powers being rushed to the 
market at one time. Such must be sold at 
any price. In this Hampshire town (Aider- 
shot) the second week in October, there is 
abundance of good fruit in shops, and 1 saw 
a day or two since on a bush tree in the open* 
good Monarch Blums that would keep a 
couple of weeks longer. In the same garden, 
the owner having a heavy crop of Victoria, 
commenced gathering and marketing them 
when large enough for cooking, and 1 was 
astonished at the prices they made per 
bushel. In this way he had no glut, and re¬ 
duced the strain on the trees by this early 
thinning, thus increasing tho size of the fruit 
left to ripen, in this way again higher prices 
In'iiig obtained. The poor prices obtained are 
for poor, small fruit. It has often occurred 
to me that it would pay to have square boxes, 
with a slight, opening to give air, in which 
could be put, say, ‘JO lb. to 30 lb. Three or 
four of these could be tied together, and in 
this way there need be no moving, as the 
boxes could be handled in the way foreign 
fruit is, the weight and the name of the kind 
being put on the outside. 

Another lesson derived from this season is 
that of selection of sorts for planting. Here, 
again, much may be done to avoid a glut. I 
am convinced no private garden ought to have 
a glut if due attention be given to selecting 


the sorts and the positions for planting. 
During the past thirty years I have given 
much thought to this, and have had a con¬ 
tinuous supply without any glut. I am aware, 
that many kinds come in at about the same 
time. Even then the season may be extended 
by planting in two positions. It is not cor¬ 
rect to say north walls cannot be used for 
Plums. 1 have proved that any sort of cook 
ing Plum gives a satisfactory crop when thus 
grown. I have seen Grand Duke and Mon¬ 
arch doing well thus grown. I have often 
had a crop of Plums from north walls when 
those in better positions were cut off. Keep¬ 
ing powers deserve attention. Plums having 
a thick skin keep double tho time. This sea 
soil I was impressed with this on looking at 
two samples of Victoria and JofTorsou in 
baskets side by side. Jefferson bad scarcely 
a decayed fruit, compared to the other. Rotli 
were from standard trees. Regarding sorts, 
the note in your issue of October 5th. at 
page 415. gives much go oil information. 1 do 
not follow the writer in relation to Orleans. 

I have found it useful for cold positions in a 
low, damp garden. I agree with all then* 
said ill relation to Golden Drop. Tins" 
planting should add more trees of this to their 
collection, seeing the fruits are reliable from 
almost any position. Here, again, much may 
bo done to extend the season. I have found 
the season of Golden Drop can be extended 
to eight or ten weeks. This autumn 1 noticed 
a fine round Blum in the shops quite late, 
under the name of “Rush.” Does any reader 
know it under this name, and what is its 
cropping power? I quite agree with all that, 
is said at page 415 in relation to Damsons, 
and also the old Green Gage. “Wilts” re¬ 
ferred to the flavour of foreign Plums. T have 
tried many, and have come to the conclusion 
that the flavour of foreign Plums is poor com¬ 
pared with that of home-grown Plums. 

.1. Crook. 


RENOVATION OK EARLY PEACH 
BORDERS. 


The time is at hand when work of this char¬ 
acter will be demanding attention. Every 
few years it is necessary to renew the borders 
either in part or wholly so, according to their 
condition- /.<*., if fruit of the best quality is 
looked for. At the present time it is tho 
borders in the early houses that should bo 
looked to. for whatever may Ik* required in 
this direction with regard to later ones it, 
must, perforce, be delayed a few weeks 
longer. If, therefore, root-lifting has become 
imperative, necessitating an entire renewal 
of the border, or if a portion only of tho 
latter lias to be removed and replaced with 
new compost, in regard t o any Peach-house 
where the trees are forced, this should be 
done before the trees shed their leaves. Many 
fail to realise that this latter proceeding 
exerts a most beneficial effect on the lifting, 
yet such is the case, for the fact of the trees 
af induces the roots to 
, or,, m. other words, to 

f TP - 


still bring ill full lc‘ 
put forth new growth 
















508 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


November 23 , 1907 


emit fibres in all directions much more 
quickly than is the case when the trees are 
leafless. The wisdom, then, of adopting such 
a policy need not be further dilated upon, 
but those who have root lifting to perform 
should not only bear the advice in mind, but 
act upon it. Another thing, and this cannot 
be too strongly emphasised, is that the shorter 
the interval between the lifting of the roots 
and laying them out again in new compost, 
the better for the tree, or trees. Again, 
under no circumstances should the roots be 
allowed to get dry. Therefore, it is advis¬ 
able to have a good quantity of wood Moss, 
or similar material, in a thoroughly damp 
state ready to hand, so that as the lifting 
proceeds and the roots are liberated the 
latter can be fastened back and surrounded 
with the Moss, etc., which will prevent their 
coming to grief. An occasional syringing 
will then keep the Moss in a proper state of 
moisture. Tt is also a good plan to shade 
the roof while lifting is going forward, and 
syringe the foliage frequently, both to pre¬ 
vent it from flagging and falling prematurely. 
Continue the roof shading for a week or so 
after the completion of the work, and if the 
house is kept rather warmer than is customary 
at this time of year, for the same period, dur¬ 
ing the day-time, this will prove a further 
incentive to rapid root development, and en- 


was then shown in large clusters, the branches 
being cut with the fruit. I have gathered 
nice fruit of Wyedale the third week in No¬ 
vember in late seasons. The fruit, when 
! gathered, will keep sound till late in the year 
if stored in a cool room. The fruit being firm 
and acid, for cooking late in the year it is 
! very valuable. It is oval-shaped, of medium 
size, and a deep purple, closely resembling a 
late Damson in colour. Why should so many 
early varieties of Plums be grown, causing a 
glut, when they command so low prices? The 
growth of the Wyedale is compact and not too 
vigorous.— An Old Hand. 


PLUM LATE ORANGE. 

A valuable addition to late dessert Plume is 
the subject of our illustration. With the 
exception of Coe’s Golden Drop, late keeping 
Plums of a yellow colour are, or were, scarce, 
so that the advent of Late Orange was gladly 
welcomed by all who have to meet a heavy 
demand for dessert fruits in variety late in 
October. As its name denotes, it is of an 
orange colour, the fruits roundish-oval in 
shape and distinctly handsome in appear¬ 
ance, carrying a good bloom. The flesh 
is richly flavoured and juicy, and, although 
not possessing the same rich, tender flesh and 
fine, sugary flavour so characteristic of a well 



Plum Late Orange. From a photograph in the gardens at 
Gunnersburv House, Acton, W. 


able the new rootlets to gain a firm grip of 
the fresh compost ere the trees go to rest. 
Be careful when laying out the roots afresh 
that they are placed nearly, but not quite, 
level, or having just a slight downward slope, 
and the topmost layer of roots should be from 
3 inches to 6 inches under the surface of the 
border, when the latter is completed. Damp 
the roots with a rosed pot as they are laid 
out, and cover with fine soil, and unless the 
compost is really in a thoroughly moist state, 
give the border a watering as soon as finished. 
Although not hitherto touched upon, such 
preliminaries a.s the preparation of the corn- 
post for border-making, the provision of 
drainnge materials, etc., must have immedi¬ 
ate attention, if such matters have not already 
had consideration. The omission of these 
necessary details would occasion a serious de¬ 
lay, and tend to prejudice the result, of the 
root lifting, should the materials not he ready 
to hand just when required. A. W. 

The latest Plum, Wyedale.— In the in¬ 
teresting notes contributed by “W. S.,” on 
“Some late Plums,” in your issue of Nov. 
2nd. page 467. he omits to mention Wyedale, 
the latest Plum known, and one that should 
be better known. I have a distinct recollec¬ 
tion of its being shown in 1886 at an October 
meeting of the' FruU^Cpmmittee ofjthe Royal 
Horticultural Sociefr, the member* lhiaking it 
a valuable Plum fp \soM atty in tlfaJslfcon. It 


ripened Golden Drop, it is, nevertheless, of 
the greatest value for late work, inasmuch 
as it is a more certain cropper than the 
variety just quoted. It is equally adapted 
either for wall culture or as a pyramid in the 
open garden, while for orchard house culture 
it ranks among the best, for this purpose, as 
visitors to the recent fruit show, held in the 
Horticultural Hall, Vincent square, had 
abundant proof. A good few dishes were 
also staged, but the specimen trees in pots, 
carrying such excellent crops of fruit, were a 
rcat attraction. Late Orange originated at 
awbridgeworth, the home of so many choice 
seedling fruits, and was given a first-class 
certificate by the Fruit Committee of the 
Royal Horticultural Society. 


NOTES AND PEPLIES. 

Treatment of fruit-trees Many thanks for re¬ 
plies to former queries. 1 have transplanted the 
Apple trees in accordance with your directions. 1 
have just planted two Apple, cue Pear, and one 
I)amson-tree. The trees have shoots 3 feet or 4 feet 
long. As these shoots are growing in the right direc¬ 
tion, I want to know if they should be cut back, and 
how much?—N. It. L. 

[Yes ; the shoots on the trees in question 
should certainly be shortened back, doing 
this in January or early in February next. 
At> the making or marring of the trees de¬ 
pends entirely on this cutting back, it goes 
without saying that this must necessarily be 
carefully performed. The main considera¬ 


tion, then, is to shorten back the shoots in 
such a manner that the shapeliness of the 
tree is preserved, and at the same time to see 
that the framework of the future trees is laid. 
Taking the case of a pyramid first, and sup¬ 
posing the shoots and leader are about 3 feet 
in length, we should cut the leader back to 
half its length, and the lowermost tier of 
shoots, or those nearest the ground, likewise. 
This done, you will then see at a glance at 
what length you should leave the remainder 
to secure symmetrically-shaped trees. If you 
have any doubt on this point, you can, by 
fastening one end of a piece of string to the 
tip of the leader and the other to the end cf 
one of the lowermost shoots, at once ascer¬ 
tain where it is necessary to cut all the 
shoots situated between the tip and base. 
The cuts in every instance should be made 
in a sloping direction, and at a point where 
the buds are situated on the lower or under¬ 
sides of the shoots, and not on the upper- 
side. The branches will, as a result, assume 
a more rigid and horizontal direction. The 
shoots on the Damson, which we presume is 
a standard, should bo cut back to about 1 foot 
or 13 inches, and if there are too many of them 
in the centre of the head, cut clean out such 
as have a tendency to cross, or are in too 
close proximity to those it is necessary to 
leave, l>earing in mind that the heads of 
young standards should always be kept thin 
and open.] 

The vinery in winter —Would you please to tell 
me when to prune my Vines? You stated in a re¬ 
cent issue that Vines should he pruned as the leaves 
arc beginning to full. Should I be right lrj pruning 
mine, aa they are Black Hamburgtis? I also have 
2 rods of Alicante, which still have the fruit on, but 
I do not want to start them into growth until next 
March. What temperature do I want now Vines 
are going to rest? When should I dress the border 
inside and out previous to starting them in March? 
Many thanks for previous replies.—It. A. 

[The dormant season for Vines is the best 
time to prune. The winter is also the best 
time to wage war against insect pests, for it 
is almost impossible to do more than keep 
them in check during the season of growth, 
for the simple reason that remedies powerful 
enough to exterminate them would be likely 
to prove injurious to the tender fruit and 
foliage ; but as soon as the fruit is gathered 
and the foliage has dropped the best, time 
has arrived for the work to be done. In the 


first place, the house should be cleared of all 
pot-plants, if any are grown in it ; in fact, as 
far as possible, of everything that is movable. 
In the case of the Grapes (Alicante), you 
should cut them and bottle them. You will 
find an article on “Bottling Grapes” in our 
issue of December 30th, 1905, page 576. 
Then prune the Vines in closely, carry the 
cuttings direct to the rubbish-heap, and burn 
them. Then proceed to carefully remove all 
loose bark by scraping with a knife ; but be 
careful not to get below the tender bark or 
injure it by scraping. Go very carefully 
round the knots and spurs, for it is there that 
the insects congregate ; then take warm 
water and a scrubbing-brush and wash the 
Vines thoroughly with soft-soap, so that 
every trace of a living insect may be removed. 
The walls, sashes, and stages should also 1>3 
well washed down, and every particle of rub¬ 
bish should be collected from the floor and 
removed out of the house. When dry, the 
walls should be coated with fresh limewash, 
and the Vines should he painted with 
some kind of dressing, such as Gishurst 
compound. Leave the house open night 
and day, as this will help to ripen the 
wood. It will be well also to take off some 
of the surface soil of the inside border and 


replace it with some good loam, to which 
have been added some bone-meal and well- 
rotted manure. You should procure a copy 
of “Vines and Vine Culture,” by Barron, 


price, post free, 5*. 6(1-1 
Pear Sangwinole I submitted to the notice i f 
the Scientific Committee of the R.H.S. some little 
time ago this rather singular little Pear. It was 
bent to me to name from a (Margate garden, and for 
some time I could not fix it. but later the name was 
found. It is of no value, either from a dessert or 
cooking standpoint, but extremely Interesting on ac¬ 
count of Its age and colour. It is said to have been 
crown in France for nearly S00 years, and the flesh 
is nearly red throughout. I should say it would make 
a fine perrv Pear How the Variety got to Cluygate, 
I . annub sav. The trcLCr-is a standard, al»oul 12 feet 
hid . and looks as though it had been twice worked. 

“ E tmflrataMPAIGN 





IfoVEMBER 23 , 190 ? 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


609 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 

THE MOUNTAIN ASH (PYRUS 
AUCUPARIA). 

In the list of trees remarkable iu the autumn 
for their brilliantly coloured fruits this de¬ 
serves a place. Though its beauty in a native 
state among the Highlands of Scotland is 
proverbial, its merits for ornamental planting 
in this country are very apt to be over¬ 
looked. Flowers, foliage, and fruits arc each 
in their turn attractive, and, what is more, 
its requirements are not at all exacting. Even 
in smoky districts it will hold its own, and I 
recently saw some suburban gardens quite a 
blaze of colour with its fruits. The Mountain 
Ash is very prolific in varieties, including one 
whose fruits are yellow when ripe, but of 
them all I do not know of one to surpass the 
ordinary form, unless it be a weeping kind. 
I do not refer to the variety usually grown 
as pendula.which has even the main branches 
drooping, but a form occasionally met with 


the knife freely it fruits abundantly. A day 
or two ago I was impressed with this fact on 
seeing some young specimens that had been 
treated thus. * I noted they were full of fruit¬ 
ing spurs. Few things are more ornamental 
than this when in good health and carrying 
large bunches of bright red berries.—J. C. F. 

AUTUMN TINTS. 

| To the Editor of Gardening Illustrated. 

Sir, —Contrary to expectation, the colour 
of the foliage of the deciduous trees is very 
fine. On the free limestone we expect fine 
colour each year, but somehow I think most 
people were a little doubtful, after such a 
j sunless summer, as to the effects we were 
likely to have. However, at the time of 
writing, all the trees from which we look for 
good colour in autumn are fulfilling our 
1 hopes. And what a magnificent display it is ! 
: To many it is the display of the whole year, 
| and certainly 1 do not think our summer 



A fruiting-shoot of the Mountain Ash (Pyrus Aucuporia). 


whose minor shoots alone are of a drooping j 
character, so that it forms a very graceful , 
tree. If the Mountain Ash wore a recent in¬ 
troduction, and a good price asked for it, the 
high ornamental qualities that it possesses 
would, no doubt, be then more fully recog¬ 
nised. X. 

[There is also a variety named P. Aucu- 
paria var. Fifeana, which differs from the 
ordinary red-fruited Mountain Ash in hav¬ 
ing orange-yellow fruits. We should be glad 
of any information as to this form and in I 
what way it differs from the variety known 
as P. A. fructu-luteo. —En. | 

-In suburban gardens one often sees 

errors made in planting trees and shrubs — 
especially in small forecourt gardens, where 
the space is limited. Often have I seen large, 
coarse-growing trees planted in a space only 
large enough for a variegated Holly. In such 
nositions no trees should be planted that are 
large growing, unless they will bear to be 
pruned and still be ornamental. The Moun¬ 
tain Ash can be treated 
makes a moderate 

Digit 


nd still be ornamental. The Moun- 
can l>e treat ed t hus, and alUiough it 
moderately Jj^jiising I 


flower gardens can compare with the various 
groups of such things as Acer, Oak, Rhus, 
Dogwood, Berberis, Cherry, Ribes, Parrotia, 
ami the like, and these fine things ought to 
lx? planted wherever there is space for them. 
To-day I was looking round the rock garden 
here, where there are Acer palmatum and 
Berber is Thiinborgi planted together, with 
autumn Colchicums and Cyclamens, and I 
know of no other more beautiful picture. 
There is a great variety of Acers, but I 
doubt whether there is at the present time a 
finer kind than the old A. palmatum. It grows 
much faster than most varieties, has a splen¬ 
did habit of growth, making a round, spread 
ing trep, sweeping the Grass with its boughs, 
and its colour is superb at the time of writ¬ 
ing. It is a splendid tree for a large rock 
garden. Its Fern-like foliage is fine during 
the summer, and in the autumn it is also 
beautiful, and when it is breaking into growth 
in the spring it is charming. Parrotia persica 
is a fine tree for autumn effect, and should 
always be planted in the neighbourhood of 


the rock garden. So should that magnificent 
plant, the Wig-tree (Rhus Cotinus), and its 
var. atropurpureum. Both are splendid, 
and cannot well be planted too freely, pro¬ 
vided they are put into suitable places. They 
should not be crowded with other tilings. 
These Wig-trees have been most beautiful 
during the past summer, and are now giving 
a still more l»eautiful display, for, to me. 
their autumn colouring is finer than their 
flowers. T. Arnold. 

Cirencester House Gardens , 

Cirencester, Nov, 6th, 1907. 

-Following the unusually cold, drip¬ 
ping summer, came the fine month of Sep¬ 
tember. October was quite the opposite, not 
more than two days of the month being with¬ 
out rain, varying in its amount. The frost, 
which in some years cuts off the tender 
plants and flowers, has not yet visited us, for, 
at the time of writing, Dahlias—perhaps the 
most tender of our garden plants—are still 
fresh, and flowering freely. The fall of the 
leaf has been much delayed in consequence 
of the mild autumn, and the landscape bene¬ 
fits by the richness of the autumn tints. A 
large specimen Lime standing on the lawn 
has been quite a study in gold, and especi¬ 
ally beautiful was this when seen under the 
influence cf the fog-subdued morning sun. 
The foliage of Horse Chestnuts in its rich 
brown dress was splendid, though short-lived. 
The deciduous Cypress (Taxodiuin distichum), 
too, has been effective with its deep golden- 
brown tint. Silver Maples, so bright in early 
summer, lose all their leaf characters very 
early in autumn, and are then poor, but the 
golden Poplar retained its hright foliage this 
year well into November. Elms are fast 
changing. Extremely fine this year were 
the berried Euon yin us eiiropceus, Berberis 
Tliunbergi, and the Cut-leaved Beech. The 
Plane and Tulip-tree seem to fail altogether 
in giving autumn effects- their leaves seem 
to collapse, and even shrivel, on the tree.s 
l>cfore there is time for colour development. 
In the garden the leaves of some kinds of 
Pears—(‘specially those on walls—assume 
magnificent colour tones. Many more trees 
and shrubs might be named bearing beautiful 
foliage this year, all testifying to the mild¬ 
ness of the season, which must tell favour¬ 
ably on the development of the buds. 

Berry-bearing trees and shrubs would seem 
to have found congenial conditions this year, 
for in nearly every instance there are un¬ 
usual freedom and brilliance of colour. The 
Mountain Ash, Bird Cherries, Cotoneasters, 
Pyracanthas, Hollies of sorts, and the large 
fruiting Thorns, are beautiful. Yews are 
abundantly berried this season, and already 
the missel thrush is busy, this bird being very 
partial to the juicy berries of the Yews. 
Among evergreen shrubs having variegated 
foliage there seems an unusual degree of 
colour development this autumn. I may 
mention golden Yews (Irish and common), 
Euonymus, Cupressus luteus, C. aureo varie- 
gatus, Retinosporas, Cryptomerias, and other 
shrubs of like character. Presumably mild¬ 
ness of weather is not so much a governing 
factor in these as with deciduous trees, 
though it cannot have other than a favour¬ 
able influence. It would almost seem that 
the cool, moist summer, unfavourable though 
it seemed as affecting vegetation generally, 
was not so in reality. House-fronts covered 
with the familiar Vitis ineonstans have been 
gorgeous in the extreme, despite the fact that 
the weather has been so opposite from that 
gardeners claim to be essential for the de¬ 
velopment of autumn tints. What, it may 
be asked, has caused these beautiful autumn, 
effects? The dripping summer, the fine Sep¬ 
tember, with its almost tropical sun, or the 
moist October and its attendant absence of 
frost? Perhaps, after all, the combination of 
the whole is the best explanation. 

West Wilts. 


“The English Flower Garden and Home 
Grounds. ’ — New Edition, 10th , revised, with descrip¬ 
tions of all the best plants , trees, and shrubs, their 
culture and arrangement, illustrated on tcood. Cloth, 
medium Svo, 15s.; post free, 15s. Gd. 

“The English Flower Garden” mag also be 
had finely bound in t vols., half vellum, 0,8. nett. Qf 
all booksellers. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 









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Original from 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



November 23, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


ROSES. 

ROSE MRS. ISABELLE MILNER. 

(Hybrid Tea.) 

This promises to be a fine addition to the 
large-flowered section of a very popular 
group. It resembles in some respects that 
magnificent Rose, Mildred Grant, but there is 
not the finish or substance that goes to the 
making up of one of the grandest of show 
blooms. Possibly Mrs. Isabelle Milner will 
be more acceptable to those who would rather 
have a Rose that will grow well and continue 
vigorous for years in preference to Mildred 


Celia, Mme. Jules Gravcrcaux, Earl of War¬ 
wick, Hugh Dickson, etc. Where can wo find 
I better or more prolific ganlen sorts, yielding 
blossoms of equal quality? Whilst the Roses 
bearing small flowers in large quantities are 
useful, there can be no doubt that fine 
individual blossoms are more readily appre- 
ciated, especially if they possess fragrance, a 
' quality that is well represented in the Rose 
i under notice. Rosa. 

THE FINEST ROSES FOR EFFECT IN 
THE FLOWER GARDEN. 

Owing to the great number of Roses in cul- 



Rose Sirs. Isabelle Milner 


Grant, that most individuals can only suc¬ 
cessfully grow as a maiden. The growth of 
Mrs. Isabelle Milner is almost, if not quite 
equal to that, of Viscountess Folkestone, and 
the grand open flowers remind one somewhat 
oF those of this good Rose. The mauve-tinted 
petals are lovely, especially as the ground 
colour is ivory-white. I fully expect to see 
this Rose come to the front as an exhibition 
flower, although doubtless its strong point 
is as a garden variety, and, of course, as such, 
much more useful. It is surprising that quite 
a number of good show Roses of compara¬ 
tively recent introduction are extremely use¬ 
ful as garden varieties. Take, for instance, 
Mrs. David McKee, J^renee Pemberton, 

Digitized by VjOOQlC 


tivation, and to tin* Rose being often viewed 
oil the show bench instead of the garden (its 
true place), many inferior kinds have been 
cultivated, and many of poor colour. Owing 
to the vast predominance given to the mis¬ 
called Hybrid Perpetuals," and to a number 
of like causes, we see many gardens with in¬ 
ferior and ineffective Roses. Here is a list of 
kinds after many trials and judged entirely 
from their effect in the flower garden. None 
of these should be excluded in favour of the 
Rambler rubbish so prominently shown at re¬ 
cent shows. Some are new and some are old, 
but all are first rate, and all are hardy grown 
in the right way. Tea Roses on the top of 
standards will suffer in unusually hard win- 


511 


tera, and numbers are killed ; but the same 
Roses grafted low down and planted rather 
deep, or on their own roots, would be quite 
hardy in the worst winters. The China Roses 
are the best on their own roots, and so are 
many Teas. 

Several beautiful Roses, as Georges 
Schwartz, are excluded from this list because 
of their dying back on the Brier and not even 
making a cutting big enough to strike. 
Among the kinds which we have tried on their 
own roots and found grow' better than ever 
they did “worked,” are Rubens, L’ldeal, 
General Schablikine, Hon. Edith Gifford, 
Mme. Chedaue Guinoisseau. Mme. Lambard, 
Mile. Yvonne Gravier, Marquise de Vivens, 
and Mine. Joseph Schwartz. Some Roses, 
like Manian Cnohet and Aug. Comte, which 
may he gathered to look well on the show 
liench or in the house, have been excluded 
•because of their want of effect in the garden 
through hanging their flow'er-slioots down. 

Anna Ollivier 
Antoine Rivoire 

Archduehesse Marie Immaeulata 
(opens best on own roots) 

Auguste Wat tine 
Bardou Job (semiclimber) 

Bouquet d’Or (climber) 

Comtesse du Cayla 
Cramoisi-Superieur 
Dean Hole 
Docteur Grill 
Elisa Fugier 

E. Vevrat Hermanos (climber) 

Francis Dubreuil 
Franz Deegen 
Frau Karl Druschki 
Fried rick Harms 
General Schablikine 
G. Nabonnand 

Grand-Due. Ad. de Luxembourg 

Gustave Regis 

Honorable Edith Gifford 

Instituteur Sirdev 

Irish Beauty 

Jean Per net 

Jeanne Guillanmez 

La France 

La Tosea 

Lady Battersea 

Lady Roberts 

Lady Waterlow (climber) 

Laniarque (climber) 

La Progres 
L’ldeal (climber) 

Liberty 

Louis Van IToutte 

Mine. Abel Chatenay 

Mine. Alfred Carriere (climber) 

Mine. Bcrard (climlier) 

Mine. Caroline Testout 

Mine. Charles 

Mine. Charles de Luze 

Mine. Charles Monnier (climber) 

Mine. Cliedanc Guinoisseau 
Mme. de Watteville 
Mme. Edmee Metz 
Mine. Edouard Helfeiubein 
Mme. Hector Louilliot (climber) 

Mine. Hoste 
Mme. J.-P. Souperfc 
Mme. Jules Grolez 
Mme. Laurctte Messimy 
Mme. Leon Pain 
Mme. Lambard 
Mme. Mina Barbenson 
Mme. Melanie Soupert 
Mme. Moreau 
M me. Pernet-Duoher 
Mme. Philippe Rivoire 
Mme. Ravary 
Mile. Jeanne Philippe 
Mile. Yvonne Gravier 

• Marie Van Houtte 
Marquise de Sinety 
Marquise de Vivens 
Mons. Joseph Hill 
Papa Gontior 
Peace 
Pharisaer 
Prince de Bulgarie 
Princess de Sagan 
Princesse Marie Metsehersky 
Reve d’Or (climber) 

Rubens 

Souvenir du President Carnot 

UNMSftf'SmiNOISAT 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 








512 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


November 23. 190? 


ROSE MME. POL. VARIN BERNIER. 
That this is a good advance in yellow Roses 
cannot be denied, but I think it is an exag¬ 
geration to term the above Rose “Yellow 
Richmond,” as Miss Rose G. Kingsley lias 
done in The Guardian of October 30th, 
page 185. Mme. Pol Varin-Bernier is a very 
beautiful sort. It seemed to me to be a 
variety in the way of Mme. P. Perny, but a 
little more upright in habit, and a larger and 
more perfect flower. I think it can never 
attain to the size of Richmond, for this 
Rose, when established, will yield fine-sized 
flowers, though not very double. If Mme. 
Segond-Weber exceeds William Shean in 
size, as Miss Kingsley avers, then I think it 
will be'time to call a halt, as a Rose larger 
than William Shean must appear ludicrous. 

I agree with all that Miss Kingsley says 
relative to Mme. Constant. Soupert. This 
will prove to be, I feel sure, a very valuable 
acquisition, especially to the exhibitor, and, 
moreover, it is a splendid grower. Anyone 
having a 5-feet or 6-feet high south or west 
wall available would do well to plant a few 
of this splendid Rose upon it. It should also 
make a fine standard. All who exhibit would 
do well to bud it freely upon standard Briers 
next summer, as unquestionably the most 
perfect blossoms of all Tea Roses are ob¬ 
tained from standard or half-standard 
trees. As I predicted some time ago, Mons. 
Pernet Ducher’s Soleil d’Or is going to 
play a very important part in the future 
in giving us some wondrous colours, both 
in the Hybrid Teas and in distinct 
hybrids with Briers, and, probably, with 
so-called Hybrid Perpetnals. 1 believe I 
can see its influence, probably as pollen 
parent, in that splendid Rose Marquise de 
Sinety. Mons. Jules Gravereaux is meeting 
with considerable success in hybridising, 
both with Rosa rugosa, of which he has 
given ns several hybrids, and now with 
liis hybrid from Persian Yellow, which he 
has named Les Rosati. It seems strange that 
the possibilities from crosses with the yellow 
Austrian and copper Austrian Briers have 
only recently been recognised. I sav re¬ 
cently, because it is not so long ago that 
Lord Penzance gave us that delightful gem, 
Lady Penzance, and I see no reason why the 
Hybrid Perpetnals cannot be crossed suc¬ 
cessfully with the remarkable and distinctly- 
coloured Austrian Copper, especially if the 
Mendelian theory is adopted, and the crosses 
themselves are employed for rccrossing to the 
second and third generation. 

Hardiness and erect growing habit nre the 
points to aim at in yellow Roses, with, of 
course, a perpetual flowering trait. It. is 
only fair to M. Pernet Duelier to adopt the 
name he coined—namely, “Rosa Pernetiana” 
—as an appellation for these new hybrids of 
Soleil d’Or, for I believe it is going to be a 
very important group in the near future. 

__ Rosa. 

NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Roses for border. —1 have a border, 3f> feet long 
by 7 feet wide, sloping from 2 feet high at back to 
footpath. In this I wish to plant Roses. The border 
faces south-east, and is well-sheltered — a Privet- 
hedge. 3 feet high, forms about half the back of 
border, and the other half is part of dwelling-house, 
al»out 9 feet high. Kindly let me know how many 
rows of Roses you would advise me to plant, ami 
names of same? 1 would prefer old-fushioned Roses, 
good bloomers, and suitable for cutting (not for ex¬ 
hibiting). Kindly also advise rnc what edging I conld 
use for this border instead of wood already fixed? 
Would Carnations or Picotees be suitable?—N ovick. 

[You can make this border into a very 
interesting one, but we should strongly a(i 
vise you to clear out the Privet hedge, and 
have tall-growing Roses in its place. Privet 
is a terrible Tobber in a border such as yours, 
and the trenching and preparation you are 
making for the Roses will encourage it to 
still further encroach and rob the Roses of 
moisture and nutriment. A fine Row* for 
making a hedge would )>e Gross an Teplitz 
or Francois Crousse. You would require 
about nine plants. Upon the wall which runs 
about half the length of the border you could 
plant such lovely climbing Roses as Climbing 
Caroline Testout. Gloire de Dijon, Climbing 
Belle Siehrecht, Win. Allen Richardson, ami 
Dr. Rouges. As the border is a sloping one, 
it will lx* rather drvv-*^ that it wilUbe neces¬ 
sary £pj w.ork into lie soilva !i|^yill amount 


of cow-manure, and it would be advisable to 
mulch the soil with well-decayed manure or 
peat Moss-manure. This border would take 
three rows of plants and about eighteen 
bushes to a row. In planting, you should 
angle the plants thus %*. As to varieties, 
you could not do better than plant some of 
the best sorts of the Hybrid Perpetual group 
as you prefer old-fashioned Roses ; varieties 
such as Mrs. John Laing, Ulrich Brunner, 
Charles Lefebvre, General Jacqueminot, etc., 
together with some of the Hybrid Teas of the 
La France and Caroline Testout type. As 
an edging to this border, nothing could be 
more beautiful than Pinks, one of the best 
being Her Majesty.] 

Rose Alfred K. Williams.— Perfection in 
form and perfection in colour are not exag¬ 
gerated terms to employ in referring to this 
grand Rose. Would that there were more 
of its type. Just now (November 6th) there 
are on maiden plants on seedling Brier some 
exquisite blooms, that give quite a glow of 
colour among the many lovely tints of these 
autumn days. It is remarkable bow oven one 
crimson flower attracts attention just now 
where the prevailing tints are old gold and 
yellow. I think we have much to learn in 
growing this fine Rase. It is usual to speak 
of it as a poor cut-back, but 1 have seen fine 
specimens in gardens where the Roses were 
not hacked down indiscriminately each 
spring. I believe, if wc were less severe in 
pruning A. K. Williams, then should we 
obtain fine specimens. The plants should be 
on the seedling Brier. I prefer this stock to 
the Brier cutting for this Rcae. The taper¬ 
ing roots give that continuous growth that 
culminates in these autumnal blossoms.— 
Rosa. 

Rosa Soulieana. One of the most striking 
Roses in the collection grown near the pagoda 
at Kew is R. Soulieana. from Western China. 
It forms a robust bush 8 feet high and as 
much through, with sub-erect branches, 
which are armed with curved or straight 
prickles, and bear pale green leaves composed 
of seven leaflets and adnate acute stipules. 
The flowers, which are borne in large, 
crowded, terminal corymbs, are an inch and 
a half across, ivory-white, yellow in the bud 
state, and they arc succeeded by egg-shaped 
fruits half an inch long, coloured, when ripe, 
a rich orange-scarlet. In June, when the 
flowers are at. their best, a large bush of this 
Rose is particularly effective ; and the effect 
is repeated in the autumn when the fruits are 
ripe. There is some resemblance between 
this and R. mosebata, one of the best known 
of the garden Roses, but the new one has 
smaller leaves, with more distinctly oval 
leaflets.— The Field. 

ROOM AND WINDOW. 

FRONT DOOR GARDENING. 

It is questionable whether greater interest 
has been shown in any department, of horti¬ 
culture of late years than in that which we 
designate “;ront-door gardening.” You, 
perhaps, take a walk in a newly-built neigh¬ 
bourhood, only to find that, in May and 
June, the householders are busy beautifying 
their house-fronts for the coming season ; 
window-boxes and walls coming in for a share 
of attention ; or some cottages away from 
smoke and impure atmosphere are being 
made ready by creeping and climbing sub¬ 
jects being planted on the house-walls. The 
best time for a consideration of the work is 
now. A house occupying a position where 
the morning sun reaches the front is an ad¬ 
vantage in the case of many things. Amongst 
Roses Crimson Rambler seems likely to be 
ousted by Dorothy l'erkins, the lovely pink 
of which remains good to the finish. There 
are other deserving climbing Rcees, older 
sorts like Waltham Climber. Dundee 
Rambler, and William Allen Richardson, 
that, notwithstanding the introduction of new 
sorts, still retain their popularity. I was in 
a large nursery the other day with a friend 
who went to purchase shrubs and climbing 
plants, and of the latter I was informed that 
Clematises still are largely ordered. Judg¬ 
ing by the quantity of C. Jaekmani, that 
variety seems to take the lend. The Snow- 


White Jaekmani, a most prolific bloomer, 
is one that I can with confidence recommend. 
For a cold position Ivies take a deal of beat¬ 
ing. A favourite plant with many is Pyrus 
japonica, an early summer bloomer, and one 
which nearly always docs well in country dis¬ 
tricts. So, too, is the Wistaria, a good 
example of which I saw in flower the past 
season—a plant that had practically encircled 
the house, and was a mass of bloom. 

Townsman. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 
Treatment of fine-foliaged plants in a 
house. —The late autumn and winter 
are trying to fine-foliaged plants in rooms, 
from the fact that less air is admitted than 
during the summer, and more artificial light 
is used. But, notwithstanding this, it is pre¬ 
ferable to have such plants for window and 
table decoration where the facilities for grow¬ 
ing flowering plants are limited. Subjects 
like Aralias, Aspidistras, Grevilleas, Ficuses, 
are always useful, and, with care, last for a 
considerable time in good condition. It ia 
obvious, however, that no plants can go for 
long together in a vitiated atmosphere with¬ 
out suffering. Every day, for a short time 
at least, it is advisable to admit air to a room, 
even for health’s sake, and some of the many 
fertilisers now on the market, which may he 
administered in a concentrated form, will be 
found of great service in keeping the plants 
in good condition. It is a great advantage, 
too, to sponge the foliage every week to rid 
the leaves of dust that will accumulate. 
Where arrangements can be made to change 
the plants occasionally, letting one set have 
a period in the greenhouse, whilst the other 
is doing duty for house decoration, this will 
be found decidedly the best plan, as the 
moist, warm conditions of a greenhouse, from 
the dry, close state of many dwelling-rooms, 
act as a “pick me-up,” and the plants 
quickly recuperate.— Townsman. 


QARDEN PESTS AND FRIENDS. 

THE CELERY-MAGGOT. 

Thk complaint of “West Wilts” as to the 
grave harm done to Celery this autumn by 
the maggot is widely re-echoed. The harm 
done seems to have been universal. Whilst 
in hook recipes we are advised to dust freely 
with fresh slacked lime and soot, or to spray 
with weak paraffin wash or emulsion, all ex¬ 
perience goes to show that these applications 
do not drive off the fly, and once its eggs are 
deposited in the leaves or on the stems, 
nothing in the way . of spray or dust seems 
able to stop their germination. and the in¬ 
jury done by the maggot. If plants were kept 
so constantly smothered with lime or soot as 
seems needful to make them deterrent to the 
fly, then must they be kept quite unrecog¬ 
nisable, and the pores be choked with dirt, 
conducing to ill-health. It is so evident that 
the only possible remedy for the evil is found 
in the Irish suggestion, to adopt prevention. 
But how is that possible? 1 would suggest 
to “West Wilts,” or any other grower of 
Celery, that next year one row of plants—it 
may be but a short one—be, for experiment, 
covered with tiffany ; or, perhaps, better still, 
thin, fine muslin. That could be done by 
making over the row a few arched hoops, 
with string running along them at intervals, 
the muslin being laid over with the sides and 
ends touching the ground, where u few stones 
could keep them close. Certainly if anything 
should do so, that should keep the fly at bay, 
unless it rise out of the soil in which the 
plants arc growing. That, however, is hardly 
likely to be so, if the Celery Ik* planted on 
diverse ground from what it was grown on 
the preceding two years. Naturally, it would 
mean some trouble, but. then, if found to be 
quite successful, it would more than repay 
the trouble incurred. K. S. 

Blue Hydrangeas (.V. F. II .).-Try watering the 
soil in which the plants ore Browing with a weak 
solution of iron. Got some rusty nails and iron- 
tilings, steep them in water, and water the plants 
with this once or twice a week while they arc grow- 
inu. In soil impregnated with iron the tloweri 
always have :i him* shade of jjcjlotir. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


November 23, 190? 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


513 



OUTDOOR PLANTS* 


CLEMATIS MME. BARON VEILLARD. 
After the Rose, the best plant for the flower- 
garden is the Clematis. This may not be 
clear to all, from the almost amusing way 
in which the plants disappear. In spite of 
the many beautiful kinds sent out during the 
past forty years, very often one sees a garden 
with few or none of theso lovely flowers, 
which, where they do well, adorn a garden 
throughout the summer and late into the 


ever. In the collection from which this plant 
is figured, the loss is not so great as usual, 
owing to the precaution taken, where possible, 
of getting the plants on their own roots from 
layers. Though we are told that the plants, 
when grafted on C. Viticella, soon make their 
own roots, it is a safer practice to get them 
from layers where possible. Why not also 
from Reed of the larger forms, which fihould 
I he easy to raise? The smaller-flowered species 
are less subject to the “disease” than the 
larger kinds, of Japanese origin. When the 
smaller kinds are grafted on C. Viticella, the 
relationship is closer, while putting the 


Clematis Mine. Pnron Veillard. From a photograph by G. A. Champion. 


autumn, often surviving tho sterms and 
winds that sweep off the Roses. What, is the 
cause of it is a mystery so far. In France 
as well as in our islands some disease deoi 
mates Clematises. They seem to survive 
better when planted among other things— 
shrubs, bushes, and on walls among creepers, 
and may in that, way seem loss liable to the 
“sunstroke” which some think is the cause 
of the loss. Certainly there is no greater loss 
to our gardens than is caused by this disease, 
whatever it. be. The plants are thrown away 
very often in the belief that they are dead, 
but a curious fact is^ftrat, if left, aline, the 
shoots sprung MEM'P 1 *' aH 


larger kinds on the European slock involves a* 
greater risk of loss. When our common wild 
Clematis is used as a stock, and it. sometimes 
is, then the risk is greater, and it should 
never Ik* used. 

Great ns is the beauty of the larger kinds, 
some of the smaller ones arc quite as grace¬ 
ful. or even more so, especially C. crispa and 
C. eampaniflora, kinds seldom seen. As re¬ 
gards the beautiful kind we illustrate, it 
seems to come between the larger and the 
smaller kinds in size, and is a very l>eautiful 
and distinct plant. It flowers very late, and 
lasts well into the early winter. The colour 
is difficult to describe, ami very distinct, and 


beautiful. When grown from layers, it is 
vigorous, and rarely fails. One or two iso¬ 
lated plants this year died back, but none of 
those that were kept together and among low 
bushes. On low trellises and even triangles, 
and hanging over low walls, and in various 
positions, it is. among the prettiest climbing 
plants for the autumn garden. 

WORK IN THE FLOWER GARDEN. 
W t ith the fall of the leaf it is next to im¬ 
possible to maintain a tidy appearance here, 
but no effort should be spared to keep the 
leaves brushed up and 
wheeled to a convenient 
site, where they can either 
be used for making up hot¬ 
beds or be rotted down for 
manure, after being turned 
over a few times, so that 
they can thoroughly decom¬ 
pose, which will take two 
years or so. With such a 
wet October, outdoor work 
has fallen in arrear, so that 
when drier weather sets in 
it will have to l>e pushed 
forward, or we shall find 
ourselves in a dilemma as 
soon as the new year sets 
in. In the absence of much 
frost, renovating or relay¬ 
ing turf can be undertaken, 
ns well as tree and shrub 
planting. Roses especially 
are all the better when 
planted in the fall of the 
year, and the same might 
be said of all deciduous 
trees and shrubs. The plant 
ing of evergreen subjects 
should either be done in 
early autumn or deferred 
until March or April. It is 
too late to use the mower, 
but the turf is much im¬ 
proved by frequent sweep¬ 
ing and an occasional poll¬ 
ing with a light roller. We 
have just finished planting 
spring-flowering bulbs and 
other plants, the constant 
rains preventing the work 
being finished until near 
the middle of November. 
Herbaceous borders are 
now receiving attention ; 
the majority are past their 
best, though the open sea¬ 
son has favoured a longer 
duration of bloom than is 
usual at this late date. All 
old-flowering stems should 
be cut close to the ground, 
but any having green foli¬ 
age left will be the stronger 
another year if passed over 
now and examined later as 
to what is best, to remove 
after a few sharp frosts. 
Climbers, such as Rcaes, 
Clematis, White Jasmine, 
Honeysuckle, Cydonia, etc., 
should be spurred back and 
the shoots retained, if 
needed, reserving some of 
the stronger shoots of Roses 
to take the place of ex¬ 
hausted ones, of which 
there are a few most years. 
Here we have a good deal 
of Laurel pruning to finish, 
the wet weather alone 
causing the backward state of things, hut 
we hope to bring it to a finish if only a 
week’s fine weather sels in. Many coniferous 
trees are often much neglected, especially as 
regards cutting away the dead branches, 
which, when left, give such trees a woe-be- 
gone appearance. Gravel paths need clean¬ 
ing and occasionally rolling (luring mild 
weather throughout the winter and early 
spring, if firm walks are wished for during 
summer. It may bo some of them require re¬ 
gravelling. which can be done in periods of 
mild weatlierOrWttal>f»Wrg up the crust 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 










514 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


November 23, 1907 


the new gravel. This tlunild be 
evenlv, ami levelled over carefully 
running the roller over it, avoiding the one of 


spread 

before 


the iron rake as much as possible, or the 
little stones are liable to get all together. 

The protection of Roses from hard frost is 
not carried to that extreme as of yore, and 
it is doubtful whether such coddling really 
saved many from destruction. A mulch of 
good manure put between the plants now will 
be of some service, as tlie goodness will get 
washed down to the roots by the time it is 
necessary to fork up the soil. Respecting 
the latter remark, a well known gardener was 
telling me a few days back that while he 
kept the soil around the roots annually moved 
up with the fork, he never had a really good 
display of Rinses, and he considered that 
Hoses enjoyed a firm root in 
that only the flat hoe was now used between 
the plants, and this on a strong, heavy loam. 
It is possible that their roots are often inter¬ 
fered with by digging too closely, especially 
on light or thin soils, so it is worth testing. 
Any Roses in borders or beds carrying long, 
straggling shoots should be cut back to 
within 2 feet of their origin. This will pre¬ 
vent them being rocked to and fro by strong 
winds, which do a deal of injury. 

Melon. Devon. James Maynr. 


SINGLE VIOLET LA FRANCE. 
Violets, like Lilies of the Valley, are so 
popular and greatly appreciated that they 
are ever welcome, no matter what the time 
of year it may be. It is, however, generally 
in the autumn, winter, and early spring 
months that the greatest demand exists for 
their delightfully fragrant blossoms, and, 
with a proper selection of varieties, the 
meeting of such demand does not present any 
such difficulties as were at one time the case, 
and an abundance of Violets can now be had 
at either of the seasons named under good 
management. For the autumn and spring 
supply there is, in my opinion, no variety to 
equal the one under notice, and I have not 
arrived at this conclusion from having given 
it one or two seasons’ trial only, hut after an 
experience extending over a period of some 
sewn or eight years. During that time it has 
never failed me. ami have some time since dis¬ 
carded all other single varieties in favour of 
La France, so highly do 1 value it. Its 
flowers are very large, some 1 have measured 
quite recently being from 1} inch to I if inch 
in diameter; the stalks are of great length 
and strength, the colour is a bluish-violet, 
and the )>etals are so beautifully rounded 
that a fully expanded flower is, in appear¬ 
ance, more like a Viola, and they emit a 
deliiions perfume. For spray ami bouquet- 
makiiig they are invaluable, and, being pro¬ 
duced as the flowers are in the same profu¬ 
sion as one is accustomed to see them ordi¬ 
narily in spring, there are always ample sup¬ 
plies for the filling of bowls, etc. The nlim¬ 
iter or plants propagated each season admits 
of some hundreds lieing lifted and planted in 
a pit for winter flowering, besides leaving a 
great number (1.200) to bloom wiiere they are 
grown during the summer months, which is a 
semi-shaded piece of ground consisting of a 
heavy loam. This is always well manured 
prior to planting, and here have the plant* 
been grown for several years past, and that 
without signs of deterioration of stock or of 
the soil becoming Violet-sick. Such routine 
matters as watering, hoeing, and feeding 
with liquid-manure have, as' a matter of 
course, due attention, but beyond this there 
is nothing “special” in their cultivation. It 
is these plants which flower in such profusion 
each autumn and spring, the lied at the time 
of writing being quite coloured with blos¬ 
soms, of which 1 have such a gathering. 

A. Wari>. 

God'mton Pork, Ashford, Knit. 

[With the above note we received a hand¬ 
some gathering of this handsome Violet from 
open-air plants, the flowers of immense size, 
recalling the miniature Tufted Pansy. The 
Violet should be grown outdoors more than 
it is. As a rule, we see it in frames, but it is 
not sufficiently thought of for the ojkmi air, 
where the effect of the purple flowers on the 
ground is so precious, apart altogether from 
* . Ei>.] 


AUTUMN IN THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 

I lately visited the Isle of Wight, just at 
the time when the foliage of trees and shrubs 
was putting on its richest autumnal hues, 
and before the flowers' of summer had been 
cut off by early frosts. Thanks to the soft 
sea breezes, the Fuchsias, Heliotropes. 
Dahlias, and other tender flowers are as full 
of bloom as at midsummer. The greatest 
charm of gardens here is the free, natural 
growth that is allowed to all kinds of plants ; 
yet pruning is done wherever necessary. 
Even the hedges are especially well kept, 
and, in many places, the double hedges that 
enclose park's and gardens must entail a lot 
of work to keep them in such good order. 
Overhanging these are trees and shrubs, 
front which tin* shoots of Honeysuckle and 
mn, so | vv ji ( | ci,.matis droop right down to the verdant 
gTeen fronds of the Ferns that clothe the 
banks and fill the dells. Roses are still 
plentiful, peeping out of great masses of 
Solatium jasminoides. and bunches of Clema¬ 
tis of various shades give colour to the scene. 
Fuchsias and Hydrangeas arc still in full 
bloom, and, with the autumn Chrysanthe¬ 
mums, promise to keep the gardens gay until 
the very shortest days ; in fact, in the shel¬ 
tered nooks one can hardly realise when the 
winter is with us. 

James Groom. 

Gosport, Nov. 9th, 1907. 


BORDERS OF FRAGRANT HARDY 
FLOWERS. 

Sometimes in arranging beds and borders 
with flowering plants effectiveness is the main 
point thought of, but in a garden, plants that 
charm us with their fragrance ought to be 
included. Nor need this be confined solely 
to the summer months. On a sheltered bor¬ 
der in the early days of the year we may have 
Iris reticulata,' the flowers of which are very 
sweet scented. Later in the spring Wall- 
flowers, with the first glimmer of sunlight, 
come into flower, and if they are planted 
where they can receive some little protection, 
one may get. quite an early show of bloom. 
Primroses are not grown nearly so much as 
they deserve, and yet there are many odd 
corners where they will pay for attention, as 
on the edges of borders, around the roots of 
trees, and close to the foot of a hedge where 
seldom anything is attempted. In bulbs we 
may include Hyacinths mil Lilies of the 
Vailev. We may gather our bunches of white 
Pinks, if we have remembered them in the 
autumn ; and Lilacs, though only with us 
for a brief period, make the air redolent with 
their sweetness in May. Tin* flowers of tlx* 
Tufted Pansy yield tlieir delicate fragrance 
all the summer. The perfume is faint, it is 
true, but when we bear in mind how freely the 
blossoms are borne, and the charming colours 
they possess, no one who make* a specialty 
of 'table decoration can forget them when 
they think of what, mav be done with them 
in shallow bowls. May and June will provide 
many plants besides Roses that give us of 
their fragrane*. Then the Rockets emit their 
sweetness; Stocks, not forgetting that some¬ 
what insignificant-looking night-flowering 

one. Matthiola bicornis. must not Ik* parsed 
over; Iceland Poppies, with -silken-looking 
petals, are very useful for vases, etc., and 
their fragrance is agreeable. Beds and bor¬ 
ders near to a dwelling house ought, if pos¬ 
sible. to contain some plants valued for some¬ 
thing more than their beauty. In such wc 
should grow Mignonette. Sweet Alyssuni, 
Liliums like cnndiduni and lanoifolium. 
Phloxes, a bush of Sweet Brier, with a corner 
left for Sweet Peas, and, perhaps, if wall 
space permitted, a plant of Honeysuckle. 

Lea hurst. 

NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Leucojum autumnale (syn. Ac-is autum- 
nalis).—One is pleased to see prominence 
given to this dainty bulbous flowering plant of 
autumn in the i.ssue for November 9th 
(p, 489). As stated in the note ac¬ 

companying the illustration, it is otic of the 
most delightful of late summer and early 


plant deserves more attention from gar- 
donors tlmn at present it receives. Rarely 
more than t> inches in height, and frequently 
less ihttn this, it i» especially well suited to 
a warm situation where, ill deep, sandy 
loam, it gives but little trouble. Because of 
its dwarf habit of growth, the plant should 
receive the protection of a thin carpet, such 
a« Sedum corsicum, or preferably Sedum 
Li ilium, to protect the frail-stemmed bice- 
sums from the rain. The Mossy Saxifrages 
would, l fear, prove too much, unless it bo 
such an one as Saxifraga muscosa or S. hit- 
lav i, and even these would require frequent 
transplanting. In the rock-garden, in sunny 
nooks, room should always be found for the 
plant, and an item to bear in mind when 
planting it is that aboveground dwarfness 
does not. necessarily mean that shallow plant 
ing in essential. Arrange the bulb* quite 
3 inches below the surface, and thus obtain a 
proportionate increase of vigour.—E. J. 

Campanulas. T do not remember a season 
when Campanulas flowered more freely than 
in the one now past. With plenty of mois¬ 
ture the plants have grown freely, and the 
spikes have been better with me than in other 
years. This may be accounted for, to some 
extent, owing to my having taken the trouble 
to plant them out' singly in spring in good 
material. Most people, I apprehend, divide 
their plants, and seldom raise a stock from 
seed, but this method of propagation, though 
it entails more trouble, is one to be com¬ 
mended, as often from seedlings one gets a 
better start, and they make blooming plants 
in twelve months. Given good deep soil, they 
make imposing plants for the back row of a 
long border, and. if the old flowers are picked 
off, their period of blooming may be con- 
siderablv prolonged. W hilst. the taller Bell¬ 
flowers are obviously the most popular, the 
dwarf varieties, which are so useful for 
baskets, ought not to be forgotten.— Wood- 
BASTWICK. 

Crocus zonatus. —This, I think, is one of 
the most beautiful of all the autumn-flowering 
Crocuses. It is a handsome species, very dis¬ 
tinct in the exceptional length of the un¬ 
opened flower-buds, which, with a little sun- 
heat. expand, giving lovely patches of colour 
not easv to describe. Not infrequently, in 
catalogues the colour of the flower is 
given as “rose-lilac, or "pale lilac, hut 
such a description give* no idea of the deli¬ 
cate satiny hue which pervades the flower, 
an.I which is but intensified by the golden- 
vellow zone about the base of the segments. 
TIim lovely Cilieian npeoies merits general 
cultivation'; at the same time, it i« among 
the least fastidious. A pretty kjjxl, some¬ 
what near the above in point of colour, is 
C. lilaoinus. but this lacks the boldness and 
freedom of flowering of C. zonatus. The 
plant i« in flower even as November dawns, 
while a small patch of it has afforded much 
pleasure for at least three weeks. Like some 
other of the autumn flowering kinds, the 
leaves of C. zonatus do not appear before 
spring.—E. J. 

Forget-me-not*. As I stood before :i bed of For¬ 
get-mc-nnt* last spring, in a htlle bark garden, 
and admired the simple flowers, 1 a>k‘d mvs.lf the 
question. •• Why people who love gardening do not 
grow moie of them?” The bed was made up largely 
of a dwarf, dark blue variety, ami the plants bad all 
been raised from seed the previous summer-seed 
sown in mi open bed and the seedlings pricked on, 
being planted in their blooming quarters hi Novem¬ 
ber. So many leave these charming spring-flowering 
plants rigidlv alone, whereas, by spending a few 
pence on a packet of seed one may have, the follow¬ 
ing season, quite an attractive show. As a ground- 



covering for bulhs like Tulips they are very service 
able, whilst for window-boxes they, too, lire most 
useful. —F. W. lb 

Crowing flowers for scent-making. I am 

anxious to get the fullest information with 
respect- to growing flowers to supply distil 
lories with the produce for scent manufacture. 
Possibly some reader might lie in a position to 
supply me with the following information:-- 
Which variety of flower is the best paying 
crop to grow ? What variety will thrive in 
poor ground? Would much* preparation of 
the land be necessary? Do the flower far¬ 
mers usually extract' the perfume? What 
counties would he suitable? Are there any 
distilleries in England? Would the neigh- 


autumn flowering plants, and for this ami its j hourhnod of Swanagil he a suitable district? 
lateness to blossom in the open garden, the ..^KNg^.-D^l'ULA^ 



NiivK'inKi! J.'l, 1007 


G. /,1 Tl T) RfflNG TL L TTSTR>ITE D. 


515 



to cut good flowers for quit# another fort¬ 
night. We have also seen the variety Ro-nr 
Melanie growing and flowering freely in the 
place above referred to.—E d.] 


NOTES AND ItEPLIES. 

Vases of Pompon Chrysanthemums —At the 

recent show of the n.c.s., jt the cr\ f-t.» l Palace, 
there were miny exhibits of decorative Chrysanthe¬ 
mums, but none more interesting than that m a class 
for two vnses of Pumpon Chrysanthemums, urranetd 
with any kind of appropriate foliage. *1 lie leading 
exhibit was especially beautiful, and was simply and 
lightly made up. Miniature-flowered Pompons, as well 
as those of larger sire, were disposed here and there 
in the vases, the flowers being both th*huddrd and 
iindi-biiddr<1 epecinif-ns. Ammnn tinted foliage, in 
whieh growths of the Searlel Oak wire very elticiive, 
were used, the arrangement being finished in some¬ 
what eonienl form. Poinpons .Mile. I'l>ie Ikitdun 
t-oft pink) and Katie Mannings irosy bronri > were 
two very noteworthy sorts. —\V. V. T. 

VEGETABLES. 

PLANTING SPRING CABBAGE. 

The remarks of *’F. W. D." (page 476) 
deserve some consideration, for in practice 
I 1 1 nve found out the truth of his statements. 
Not only do Cabbages planted in the spring 
turn in well, and almost as early in some 
reasons as from the ordinary autumn plant¬ 
ing, but there is much less disposition to pre¬ 
mature bolting. This last year was one in 
which much loss and inconvenience were felt 
in the wholesale bolting of the spring Cab¬ 
bage. From exactly the same seed-bed it is 
possible to secure complete immunity from 
bolting when planting is done in February or 
early March, instead of September or Octo¬ 
ber. This 1 proved this year, as did ninny 
others. “F. W. D.” says a difference of 
opinion exists in regard to autumn rer* im 
spring planting, but my experience hns never 
justified giving up autumn planting and 
doing this in the spring. Usually the plants 
in the spring-planted Cabbage-bed nre even, 
and come in early. Mast gardeners would 
blame themselves were their neighbours to 
cut Cabbages first from autumn planting, anti 
they were left behind on the plea of spring 
efforts lieing preferable. There is a distinct, 
difference between the two planting seasons 
the one has tin* cold winter to go through, 
while in February or early March aolar 
influences are becoming daily increased. 
Then, too, those who plant in the spring 
usually dig the land allotted to this crop, 
which, it need scarcely he snid, helps the 
growth. It is astonishing how much more 
rapid is tin* progress of these spring plant¬ 
ings, and no doubt if gardeners could only 
leave the seed-bed undisturbed till February, 
and then plant, quite as good, and sometimes, 
even better, results would be gained. Old 
customs undoubtedly die hard, or more would 
follow the advice of ** F. \V. D..“ and defer 
planting until Inter. The site intended for 
Cabbages would need to Im* reserved or made 
readily available at the right moment. Could 
this Ik* assured them, a temporary crop could 
he taken from ground intended for tin* spring 
bed. The exigencies of season and climate, 
however, make this intercropping uncertain, 
nod thus growers to insure themselves against 
possible and. perhaps, unpardonable risk, 
anticipate spring Cnbhages bv the regiilntii u 
autumn planting, nud which, presumably, has 
been the custom of the garden from time 
immemorial. W. S. 


NOTES ANI) ltEl'LJES. 

Pickling Onions In crow ins pirkliiig Onions, 
such us I lie Queen nmt Paris Silver skin, is it litre*- 
sary to have floor soil to crow u good sample? Sonic 
say it Is. others that the soil should he good. Would 
May he too late to sow in order to ripen them, anti 
how much sped should I require per perch, broadcast 
or drill? —J. B. 

(To have quickly-grown and early ripening 
Onions fur pickling, it is wisest to (tow on 
fairly good ground, hut not heavily manured. 
The soil should he deeply dug, then made 
fairly firm. Sow the seed fairly thick in 
shallow drills 10 inches apart, and leave to 
bulb as best the plants can. The density cf 
the plants causes bullw to form early. You 
will, probably. Ret three sizes in the crop, 
and, where it iil h.' ilaiJ^dl oho, these mav lie 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

LATE OUTDOOR CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

I never remember a flowering season like the 
present one for Chrysanthemums in the open 
border. The mildness of the weather is 
chiefly responsible for this, and. in conse¬ 
quence, the plants have been flowering several 
weeks later than usual. As a ijule, the early 
and semi-early varieties nre past their best 
some time before the end of October; but 
this season beautiful flowers have been forth¬ 
coming up to the second week of November. 
Specially line have been several plants nf 
Mrs. Chits. II ('urlis. a i ii ll < I'linsoii-t idmired 
single variety, 'lie* flower* have a bright j 
yellow disc, which enhances their value. ; 
When not disbudded, large nml handsome 
sprays are develo|>ed, and when partially 
disbudded the flowers make large and attrac- 


Hybrid Pompon section. This is a white 
flower that i* seen in so many country cottage 
ardens, and it has a good constitution, 
'euve Clicquot, of continental origin, has 
ideal Pompon flowers of a bronzy-buff colour. 
The plant flowers profusely, and each spray 
of blossom** inav bo gathered with a capital 
length of foot stalk. A pretty miniature- 
flowered Pompon is Katie Mannings, the form 
of which is exquisite. The catalogues give 
the colour ns rosy-bronze, but this is not an 
apt description. A somewhat now outdoor 
Pompon is Diamond. This is flowering with 
me for the second season, and I like it better 
upon further acquaintance. The plant pos¬ 
sesses a good bi'.ehy habit, and i* free-flower¬ 
ing. and the colour is a tom* of reddish 
bronze. The old roflexed sort, Emperor of 
China (here figured), is synonymous with 
what is more popularly known us Cottage 
Pink. This is a pretty silvery-pink reflexed 


Chr\ s.inlliumm Kiupcror of China (»yn. Cottage I'ink). 


tivp individual specimens. A good, free- 
flowering Japanese variety is Howard II. 
Crane, which produce# charming sprays of 
dainty blossoms or a bright chestnut colour, 
with a golden bronze reverse to the narrow* 
petals, and is most effective. Another good 
late Japanese is Ravcnshouruc, n deep rose 
coloured flower, with silvery reverse, anil the 
blossoms nre borne in pretty, graceful clus¬ 
ters on good flower stalks. Freedom is 
another good Japanese sort, the flowers of 
beautiful form, and the colour a shade of 
rosy-purple. The blossoms arc produced in 
large clusters. Nina Blick has been in flower 
since August lust, and at the time of writing 
(November 9th) many plants are still in good 
condition. This bright crimson bronze sort 
is one of the best for outdoor culture. 

The Pompons have 1 h*cii good. too. Presi¬ 
dent. a very old sort. has been, and is still, 
h fine feature in the garden, with its bright 
rosy-carmine blossoms. Kunir Melanie 
another excellent outdnoe^iud, beloiqwto the 

Digitized by 


itdoum^ind, beltiii!*i| to tl 

y Google 


bloom, so useful in wet weather, because the 
water runs off the flowers, and does not settle 
at. the base nf the florets. u.s is often the cose 
with other types of the Chrysanthemum. The 
rosy purple miniature-flowered Pompon, 
Annstnsio, is still very pretty, and several of 
the plants have been in flower for months. 
The plants are very bushy and compact, and 
are wondrouslv free-flowering . 

C. A. H. 

flu the station-yard ut Chiswick Park 
there are many plants of the variety Cottage 
Pink which have been in their present posi¬ 
tion for over eight years, and which nre now 
one mass of bloom. These plants have not 
been given any attention—simply let alone — 
and they nre now fine bushes. They nre not 
staked in any way, but allowed to grow and 
fall about in wild profusion, mid tlu* effect of 
the densely-flowered growths is very fine. 
We have the same variety now in full bloom, 
and, if the weather keeps mild, will lie able 














Gardening illustrated. 


November 23, 190? 


518 


Potato sieves. By sowing in drills not only 
iB the seed more equally distributed, but it is 
so much easier to keep down weeds than is 
the case when seed is sown broadcast. It 
matters little whether seed be sown in April 
or May, but we prefer the earlier month. 
Market growers sow Bedfordshire Champion 
or Reading, as advised, for small bulbs. 
If you prefer white ones, then sow Queen, 
Noeera, or Silver Skin, as these are natur¬ 
ally small bulbers. A perch or rod of ground 
would take half a pound of seed to sow in 
drills thickly.] 

Renovating fruit and vegetable garden.— 

Would you kindly advise me as to manuring a fruit 
and a vegetable garden (soil, loam; subsoil, yellowish 
clay). Fruit-trees: Apples, Pears, Currants, and 
Gooseberries. Planted about fourteen years, yield 
satisfactorily, with exception of Pears. No lime is 
given, jus it is supposed that the land has plenty of 
it, the stone in the subsoil of the district being .some¬ 
times used to burn into lime. The vegetable garden 
was taken in from meadow-land two years ago, and 
gas-limed at the rate of about 5 tons per acre when 
broken up. Crops are not very satisfactory, espe¬ 
cially Potatoes, which give two or three large ones 
and the rest very small. Manure used consists of town 
road-sweepings, with some horse-manure, at the rate 
of about to tons per acre. 1 am now digging the land 
with 12 inch spade, and a boy follows in the trench 
forking the bottom up, thereby stirring up two or 
three inches of clay. 1 wish to know if that is 
enough manure, or can I improve by using chemical 
manure? If so, what would you advise as to quanti¬ 
ties and when to apply? I can buy plenty of fresh 
pigs’ blood at Is. per owl. Would this be of any 
use?—J. B. 

[The stone in your district is, probably, 
too insoluble, until burnt, to present any 
substitute for lime, and no doubt a good 
dressing of half a bushel of lime per rod 
area would do the fruit trees good. So also 
will a dressing of from 8 lb. to 10 lb. of 
basic slag per rod, dressed chiefly over the 
roots of the trees and forked in. That is a 
slow-acting phosphate, but it. is a valuable 
manure for fruit trees, especially for Pears. 
Forty tons of animal manure per acre is a 
heavy dressing for soil, especially that the 
ground was a meadow but two years ago. 
Still, much depends on the nature of the 
manure, whether well prepared, or whether 
much exposed and exhausted. Still, with the 
addition of chemical manures, at th£ rate of 
8 lb. per rod of bone-flour, sulphate of 
potash, and nitrate of soda, in equal parts, 
and dressed on and dug in in January, crops 
should next year be good. If you keep the 
2 inches or 3 inches of clay, as trenching pro¬ 
ceeds, in the bottom of the trenches, it will 
do good. Being crude and sour now, it 
would be unwise to bring it yet to the sur¬ 
face. As it Incomes permeated by air and 
manure it will sweeten and improve. Do 
not plant Potatoes on the same ground which 
grew them this year. Also have the soil well 
forked over in dry weather to get it into a 
pulverised condition. What with the lime 
dressing, if applied as advised for fruit-trees 
now, and the chemical manure Inter, you 
should have good growth on your Potatoes, 
yet have none unduly large. We have no 
liking for blood as manure. Still, if used, 
make a bay of soil, pour the blood into it, 
and cover it up thickly with soil to absorb it. 
Later, when fairly dry, turn it over and mix 
it, adding soot freely. The soil should be 
four times in excess of the bulk of the blood 
added.] 


Jerusalem Artichokes. Reference to the 
flowering of the Jerusalem Artichoke recalls 
the fact that many years ago, when the Potato 
disease did so largely decimate our Potato 
crops, hope was expressed that it might be 
found possible to so improve the Jerusalem 
Artichoke that its tubers would replace those 
of the Potato. No such hope lias been 
realised, or seems in any way likely to Ik* 
so. Though flowering is not uncommon, 
seeds never result here. They have done so 
occasionally in France, but the seedlings 
were of little value. The difficulty is that we 
have no analogous tuner rooting plant to 
inter cross with this Artichoke. The produc¬ 
tion of the white-skinned Artichoke, prob¬ 
ably a sport from the* original one, is all the 
improvement on it yet effected.—A. I). 


Gas lime, dressing with (A. W. J.). Apply the* 
Ra-s-lime now, at the rate of 2 bushels to a rods of 
eround, spreading it about evenly and well breaking 
it up. Let it lie for a month, then break it up with a 
rake and diu it in. Do not crop the ground which 


has been dre 

spring. 

Digitiz 


sed withjhc gas iime in 

Got 


It- until t 

gle 


the iievt 


GARDEN WORK. 

Conservatory. —Give Luculia gratissima 
liquid-manure. This plant makes a very 
handsome bush planted out in a good border 
of peat and loam. It is also u good wall 
plant under glass. The Lapagerias are 
beautiful plants for a cool conservatory, 
planted in a well drained bed of peat and 
loam and sand at the shady end of a roomy 
house, where they can grow up into the 
roof, and hang about. Both the white and 
the red kinds should be grown, as the flowers 
are useful for cutting, being 60 lasting and 
easily wired. Mignonette coming into flower 
should have a light position, and be helped 
with liquid-manure. Later sowings should be 
thinned to five plants in a 5-inch pot, and be 
grown near the glass in n moderate tempera¬ 
ture. There are several ways of growing 
Mignonette. To have Tree-Mignonette the 
seeds should be sown in April, and confined 
to one plant in a pot. During the summer 
the plants are shifted on from time to time 
as more pot room is required, and some train¬ 
ing is given and all flowers are picked off 
during growth till September or later. Dwarf 
Mignonette may 1)2 grown in f) inch or G inch 
pots, two or more sowings being made be¬ 
tween the end of July and November. The 
loam must be of the best, ami form two- 
thirds of the bulk, the remainder being com¬ 
posed of old cow manure, with a little bone- 
meal or artificial plant food. A little soot and 
old plaster added will make the whole sweet 
and suitable for the roots to work in. The 
pots must be clean and well drained, and the 
root-run made firm. A few Sweet Peas may 
be sown now for flowering early, three seeds 
in a small pot, to be shifted on as required. 
They must nave a light, cool position. If any 
attempt is made to hasten growth, the plants 
will run up weakly. Grow the best varieties, 
and pinch out terminal buds when a foot 
high or so. 

Stove. Do not overcrowd, and do not 
overwater anything at this season, and such 
summer-flowering plants as Allamandas and 
Bougainvilleas may he kept on the dry side 
at the root, and neither these nor Stephanotis 
floribunda should have too much heat at this 
season. If in pots, they may be moved to a 
cooler house for a time to rest, and be kept 
dry. They will flower all the better when 
taken back to the warm-house. Rhyncos- \ 
permum jasminoides forces very easily after 
a rest, and a large plant will supply a good 
many sweet flowers for rutting for bouquet 
work. Years ago this was a favourite plant 
at the early spring shows, as it was easy to 
grow trained on a balloon-shaped wire 
trellis. Taber me mon tana Camassa is a use¬ 

ful plant for producing sweet white flowers 
for cutting for working up. Pans filled with 
the variegated Indian Grass (Panicum varic- 
gatum), Club Masses, and the little Madeira 
Grass (Isolepis gracilis) are useful where 
much table decoration has to be done, and 
the creeping, netted foliage of the Fittonias, 
especially Fittonia argyroneura, is useful for 
the same work. Begonias will be useful now. 

Winter Cucumbers, ff the shoots arc 
pinched when necessary, very little knife 
work will Ik* required, and the less the knife 
is used during the short days the better. 
Sixty-five degs. at night need not be ex¬ 
ceeded, if there is a comfortable bottom-lieat 
of 7f> clegs, to 80 clegs. The latter figures 
should not be? exceeded, as too much bottom 
heat causes a weakly growth, which means 
early exhaustion. Not much ventilation will 
be required in average weather, but no house 
is, or need be, altogether air-tight, and suf¬ 
ficient moisture may l»e obtained by damping 
floors and beds without syringing the foliage 
in damp weather. Atmospheric moisture 
should be in proportion to the fire heat used. 

Forcing Asparagus. -There are several 
ways of doing this. Where there is plenty of 
leaves, hot beds made of these and stable- 
manure will, if the right kind of roots is 
available, bring forward Asparagus in three 
weeks or a month. The right kind of roots 
is those grown specially for early forcing, 
and about four years old. These begin to 
move the moment they feel the warmth be¬ 
low. Where only small dishes of Asparagus 
are required, it may easily Ik* forced in boxes 


or baskets in the Cucumber-house or Pine- 
stove, or it may be started in the Mushroom- 
house and afterwards moved to a light, warm 
house to give colour and flavour. If white 
Asparagus is required, a sufficient depth of 
light sandy soil must be placed over the 
roots. 

Foliage for cutting.- This is as important, 
as flowers wljore much decorative work is 
done. Asparagus in several forms is very 
useful, as it is lasting. We use it for many 
purposes instead of Smilax. Croton leaves 
are used now a good deal, and old plants 
may be kept for this purpose, as it will ruin 
young plants to pick leaves from them. 
Maiden-naii* Ferns for cutting should be 
grown in a light position near the glass, to 
get hard The variegated Grasses (Eulalia 
and others) are graceful for mixing with 
flowers in tall glasses, to give the finishing 
touches, as it were, and there are lots of 
hardy foliage, such as Berber is and various 
Ivies, which can be used now. I have some¬ 
times, when hard up, gone out to the fields 
for Grasses, Messes, and other plants found 
there. 

Early Tomatoes. -All things move slowly 
now. All we can do is to go on as quietly us 
possible, so long as the plants are healthy, 
and do a little more by-and-bye. when the 
days lengthen. The progress will be more 
rapid, as more heat can be given. One can¬ 
not do much with Tomatoes in winter with 
less than 60 degs. at night, and not much 
water is required. 

Flowering plants in the house. -Vallota* 
last well, and well grown Cyclamens, if the 
position is fairly light, will lost some time. 
Arum Lilies and Lilium longiflorum which 
have been retarded are also serviceable, and 
good pots full of Lily of the Valley, where 
expense is not considered, may be bad. We 
have had large planks of Christmas Rose in 
large pots that were very serviceable, and. 
later on, large tubs or vases filled with 
Narcissi. 

Outdoor garden. Tn planting herbaceous 
borders do not mix the strong growers with 
the weakly, delicate things, or the latter will 
suffer, and, perhaps, disappear altogether. 
Strong growing things, such as Perennial 
Sunflowers and Michaelmas Daisies, arc 
charming round the shrubbery, blending with 
the shrubs, but they are untidy things in the 
dunce herbaceous bods and borders. Masses 
of strong growing plants will be at home in 
the wild garden. The common Evening 
Primrose (CEnothera biennis) and the white 
Foxglove are very effective in large masses 
in the wild garden. White Darwin Tulips 
over a groundwork of dwarf Forget-me-nots 
are very effective. Beds or borders of annuals 
planted now will be effective in spring, and 
will come off in time for beds to be filled with 
summer flowers. Celosias or Cannas make a 
nice change from Pelargoniums. The 
annuals we are relying upon now were sown 
at the end of August on rather poor soil, so 
that they may lift well. The pink flowered 
Silene compacta, the pale yellow Limnanthes 
Douglasi, and the Godetias in variety, are 
good for massing, planted 6 inches apart. 
Weakly lawns may now be dressed with phos- 
phatic manures. 

Fruit garden. Now- that most of the 
leaves are down, pruning may commence, be¬ 
ginning first with bush fruits. In pruning 
Gooseberries, open out the centre and thin 
all side growths, removing all shoots which 
are likely to come into contact with the 
ground. To obtain heavy crops of fruit. 
Leave in young wood all over the bush, and 
do not shorten much. Red Currants are 
spurred in rather closely, but Black Currants 
are merely thinned, and not shortened much, 
but as young wood is required to make a fer 
tile bush, some of the old branches may he 
cut out from time to tiiim, to ensure the pro 
duct ion of young wood. Bush Apples on the 
Paradise do not want much pruning. Gener¬ 
ally merely thinning out surplus wood and 
just a little shortening of unripe leaves will 
suffice. One cannot make trees fertile bv 
pruning the branches alone. Trees on the 
Crab or other free fttppks want help from a 
check given to the roots. Very often the 
unit of iV tilt} aiiMs fit m neglect of the 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




Kovember 23, 1907 


GAUD Em AG ILL UST RAT ED. 


£17 


roots. There is no greater evil than over¬ 
pruning, but the non-pruner seldom grows 
fine fruits, and nowadays it is the well-de- 
teloped fruits which pay. Wall trees must, 
of course, be regularly pruned, and trees 
crowded with spurs should have some of the 
older ones removed. This is specially neces¬ 
sary in the case of old Pear-trees. When the 
spurs are crowded the growth becomes weak, 
and only the extremities of the trees bear 
fruit. 

Vegetable garden.— All roots likely to be 
injured by frost should be taken up and 
stored. Seakale roots intended for forcing 
indoors should also be lifted, and after the 
removal of the small roots or thongs which 
are usually laid in sand to provide future 
stock, the main roots, or crowns, are laid in 
near the forcing houses in a cool border to 
rest till required. Late Cauliflowers and 
early Broccoli should be watched and secured 
from frost in good time. We are approach¬ 
ing that period when frost may come suddenly, 
and though Celery may not be injured, yet it 
will be well to have some dry Fern or Rushes 
or Reeds in store, to protect tender plants if 
frost does come. There is no covering better 
than dry Bracken, and in some districts it is 
cut and stacked in summer, ready for cover¬ 
ing. There will, probably, be plenty of Mush¬ 
rooms now from open-air beds, and if these 
are provided with waterproof coverings, they 
will continue in bearing till severe weather 
sets in, and by then there will be a good 
supply from beds made up in September in 
the house. E. Hobday. 


THE COMING WEEK'S WORK. 

Extracts from a Harden Diary. 

November 25th. —Sowed two early kinds of 
Peas on a south border. Sometimes these 
turn in well, but we do not altogether depend 
upon them. It is simply another chance. 
Sweet Pens have been sown in pots for early 
blooming. We shall sow again early in the 
new year. Pruned Pears on east wall. Where 
spurs are crowded, thinning is done. Old 
trees require this—in the centre especially. 
Took up Rhubarb for forcing. 

November 26th.— In pruning Plums on 
walls, young wood, where there is room, is 
laid in, and an old branch or two cut out. 
The more the young wood is encouraged the 
better for the fruit crop. When the trees are 
all pruned and trained, an insect wasli will be 
used, and,if thought necessary, repeated dur¬ 
ing winter. Since we adopted winter-wash¬ 
ing Plums there has been less trouble with, 
insects. There is plenty of washes on the 
market now. 

November 27th. —Roses are moving well 
now. We generally cut off all the green 
leaves and reduce the longest shoots a little, 
to relieve the roots. If planted in well-worked 
soil, the roots soon start, and Roses planted 
this month get well established before severe 
frost comes. If mulched with half decayed 
manure, they will pass through the winter 
safely. The trees should be earthed up when 
frest sets in. 

November 28th. —We have just received our 
usual parcel of new Roses—new, at least, to 
us. We never now buy anything new because 
it is new. We want, to see it, or obtain its 
character from a reliable source. Our usual 
stock of dwarf and standurd Briers has come 
to hand, and will be planted at once, the 
standards secured from wind-waving, and all 
mulched with long manure. 

November 29th. —Finished potting Spiraeas 
for forcing. These we import, because the 
imported roots have stronger and better 
crowns, though I should think as good Toots 
could be grown in the Fens, where the land 
is rich and moist. We generally find English- 
grown deciduous Azaleas flower bettor than 
imported plants, and, after allowing for 
carriage, they are cheaper. 

November 30th. —Top-dressed inside borders 
of early vinery and Peach-house. Good 
loam, bone-meal, and a little old cow-manure 
with some old mortar, are the chief materials 
used. If necessary, other stimulants are 
used during growth, and help is given as re¬ 
quired. A few' eyes of viq^s are reserved for 
propagating and laid |n till ,Janua«v The 
usual stock of good lonWllJlAiyAn ^/<4(Vin. 


ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 
November 12th. 

The exhibits were not so numerous as on 
some occasions. Fine exhibits of the new 
American race of Carnations were 6een. In 
the gold medal group set lip by the Messrs. 
Jas. veitoh and Sons, Ltd., Chelsea, the fiiie- 
foliaged plants were well grown, and the 
brilliant examples of Crotons, with Dra¬ 
caenas. Aloeasias, Marantas, and the like, 
were freely disposed among choice Ferns. 
Asparagus, and other things of a light and 
ornamental character. In the centre was a 
group of the choicer Orchids, and these at 
right ahd left Were flanked by circular groups 
of Tree-Carnations in variety. A fringe of 
Begonia Agatha and Exacum macranthnm 
constituted the margin of this excellent ar¬ 
rangement. In another direction the Messrs. 
Veitch filled a table with the winter-flowering 
Begonias—chiefly, however, in pink and scar¬ 
let-flowered varieties, which arc so useful at 
this season. 

Quite one of the more valuable of the 
groups Was that Of Gk*i(‘lletiiad. froili the 
Messrs. E. G. Hill and Sons, Lower Edmon¬ 
ton, some ten or a dozen specie® and varie¬ 
ties. chiefly in specimen form, being staged. 
To Fern lovers the group was of considerable 
interest, the plants being exceedingly well 
grown. A Very full table of Begonia. Gloire 
de Lorraine and its varieties was arranged by 
Mr. Parr.gardener to Mr. F. A. Bevan, Trent 
Park, Higligatc, the examples showing excel¬ 
lent. cultivation ; a similar table being occu¬ 
pied with good and well flowered plants of 
Cyclamen persieum in many choice varieties, 
the exhibitor being the Rev. H. Buckskin 
(gardener, Mr. Shambrook), Derby. Messrs. 
Wm. Cutbush and Sons, Highgate, had an 
extensive exhibit of choice trees and shrubs 
in many distinct kinds, berry-bearing plants 
and variegated subjects, as Box, Euonyinus, 
and well-coloured examples of Holly, Abies 
pungens glauca, etc., being remarked. 
Specimen standard and bush plants of the 
Bay were notable in the background. This 
firm also staged some excellent vases of the 
American Carnations. Mr. H. B. May. Ed¬ 
monton. had a fulL table with a choice assort 
ment of Ferns, hybrid Veronicas of the V. An- 
dersoni section, Carnations, and other things. 
From the Langley Park Nurseries, Hampton, 
Mr. W. II. Page brought a highly meritori¬ 
ous lot of the winter-flowering Carnations in 
the leading kinds. The yvell-filled vases of 
Enchantress, Fair Maid, Beacon, Winsor, 
White Perfection, Lady Bountiful, Britannia, 
Mrs. W. T. Lawson, etc., made a fine display, 
and appeared to advantage above a setting of 
well-grown plants of Adiantum cuneatum 
clegans. We believe we are correct in say¬ 
ing that not a single stem was wired, the 
flowers thus displaying their true value. Mr. 
A. F. Dutton had one or two choice Carna¬ 
tions, of which Melody is a beautiful pink- 
flowered sort. Cyclamen persieum in variety, 
with Carnations and a collection of Apples, 
was staged by the Messrs. Hugh Low and Co., 
Enfield. A new Begonia—a sport from B. 
Agatha, and named B. Mrs. Bedford -was 
exhibited by Mr. Jas. Hudson, gardener to 
Mr. Leopold de Rothschild, Gunnersbury 
House. Acton. The plant is of more vigor¬ 
ous habit than the parent. Begonias of the 
winter flowering section were well shown by 
the Messrs. Clibrans, Altrincham, Cheshire, 
a splendid, deep snlinon-pink flowered variety, 
named B. Miss Clibran, receiving an award 
of merit. The shade of colour is charming, 
and the plant is free flowering. The variety 
has been raised by crossing B. socotrana and 
a tuberous-rooted kind, and should become 
popular. Aucuba japonica vera in well- 
berried plants was shown by Mr. L. R. 
Russell, Richmond. The cut Zonal Pelar¬ 
goniums from the Messrs.* Cannell and Sons, 
Swanley, always attract attention at this sea¬ 
son. In addition the firm brought a most 
interesting gathering of succulents and allied 
subjects. Mr. G. Reuthe, Keston, Kent, 
showed Sternborgias, Crocuses, and other 
hardy plants. From Tarrytown-on-Hudson, 
New York, the Messrs. F. R. Pierson and Co. 
brought superb examples of a new' Fern 
(Nephrolepis miperbissinm). a good addition 
to the plumosa- section, Seeing the plant® 


had been packed for about twelve days, they 
presented quite a fresh appearance, and, by 
a unanimous vote, received a first-clasa 
certificate. Messrs. Wm. Wells and Co., 
Merstham, had a collection of Chrysanthe¬ 
mums, two of which (Foxhunter and Freda 
Bedford) w-ere certificated as market 
varieties. 

The Messrs. J. Cheal and Sons, Crawley, 
staged a collection of vegetables, and the 
Messrs. Dobbie and Co., of Rothesay, a col¬ 
lection of seventy varieties of Potatoes, in 
which the leading novelties of the day and 
the best old varieties, early and late, were 
seen side by side. 

The collections of Orchids were not numer¬ 
ous, but we noted in the group from Mr. 
Cypher, of Cheltenham, some fine pieces of 
Cypripedium insigue SanderiO, and C. i. 
Harefield Hall variety, while of C. Fairrie- 
anum there were well-flowered examples. 
Messrs. Bander, St. Alban’s, had a choice 
gathering, most prominent being a splendid 
raceme of Vanda coerulea. Cypripedium 
Sandene, C. Polletiammi var. magnificum, 
were also seen. In a small group of Orchids 
from the Messrs. Hugh Low and Co., Cypri- 
pedium villosutn auriferum and Cattleya 
labiata Queen Maude, a nearly pure white 
flower, w-ere remarked, among others. 

A full list of the awards will be found in 
our advertising columns. 

CORRESPONDENCE. 

PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

Everlasting Peas (Hnehlti/I.-Wc kfimv of no 
Perennial Sweet Pen. The best of the Everlasting 
Pens are Lathyfus latifolius (pink), and L. 1. nlbu.i 
(white). L. rotiindifolius (rose coloured), t • Sibthorpf 
(purplish-red), and L, grandifloriu*, whose flower*, of 
a rosy-purple colour, are usually borne In pairs. 

Pruning Plumbago capensis (Miss Eliot).— 
Plumbago capensis only needs pruning If necessary to 
keep it within bounds, or, when grown as a bush, to 
maintain a fairly symmetrical shape. The flowering 
is not assisted by pruning in any way; indeed, father 
the reverse. In a temperature of 50 dogs, to 65 dogs, 
it will flower more of le^s throughout the winter, but 
in a cool greenhouse it is apt to lose some of its 
leaves and go partially to rest. When in that state 
the soil should be kept fairly moist, and on the 
return of spring it will start freely into growth. 

Hollyhocks diseased (J. fi. Morton and Clemen¬ 
tina).— Your plants have fallen a victim to the dbcasrf 
which lias proved so destructive in recent years 
Puceinia malvacearum. There is no real remedy for 
it, and the beet plan is to pull up the plants and 
burn them. Those that do not seem to be attacked 
should, as a precaution, be washed with soapy water 
in which a liberal portion of flowers of sulphur has 
been dissolved. The sulphur will settle at the 
bottom of the vessel, and must be frequently stirred 
when the mixture is being used. Sulphur Is very 
effective in destroying almost any fungus, and may 
do so in the case of this one in Its earliest stages, 
but when established it will not do so. 

Daisies on lawn (J. Clarke ).—On no account use 
weed-killer. You can only hope to eventually clear 
the Daisies out by continually digging theln up with 
a stout handfork or some such implement. This may 
be done at once. Your lawn seems to be full of 
Daisies, in which case the best plan would be to have 
it dug, clearing out the Daisy-roots as the work pro¬ 
ceeds. Then relay with fresh turf, seeing to it that 
all bad weeds are pulled out before you lay it down. 
If jou do not care to go to the expense of turf, you 
could, next March, take the work in hand, sowing 
down the lawn in April with good Grass-seed, not 
that from a hayloft, which, as a rule, is very full of 
weeds, and often causes a lot of (rouble afterwards. 

Six putdoor Chrysanthemums for succes 
sion (.V. V 7... Cheshire). — In reply to your request 
Tor six Chrysanthemums for the outdoor garden to 
flower in succession from the latter half of Septem¬ 
ber till November, we can recommend the following: 
Nina Blick. crimson-bronze, very sturdy and bushy; 
Goachcr's Crimson: Pride of Keston, reddish-rose, 
pretty form and beautiful in sprays; Howard H. 
Crane, light-chestnut, with golden-bronze reverse, 
very free-flowering: Mychett Beauty, rich golden- 
yellow; and Notaire Groz, a silvery-pink, and a most 
profuse bloomer. There are so many good things 
that the task of selection is by no meaiiB an easy 
one, as we cannot include all the colours we would 
like in so limited a selection. The plants should do. 
very well in either a southern or western aspect, and* 
in heavy loam should be a success. 

Pheasant's eye Narcissus (Toronto). - The 
members of this group of the Narcissus family are. 
naturally, moisture loving. In the "clay soil,’’ to 
which you refer, the moisture would be much greater 
than in your present sandy soil, and to some extent, 
therefore, the bulbs are robbed of one of the chief 
factors that go to make such things a success. Where 
the soil is light and much drained, as in your case, 
something might be done by heavy manuring of the 
soil at phinting-time and by frequent soakings with 
water during spring when the plants are in growth, 
or. if you have the bulbs in » bed alone, some day 
or heavy soil, which is abundant! in some districts 
wrthjn half-a-mile of you. could he added. Where 
heavy soils jcr-moi^tute.holding solfc we hut available,. 




518 


GARDENING ILL USTRATED. 


Novem her 23, 1007 


shade assists to some extent, by reason of the more 
uniformly cool condition of the ground. All you can 
do now is to mulch the bulbs with manure, and water 
heavily to strengthen the growth. At the end or 
June. 19ns. you might replant them on the lines sug¬ 
gested above. 

Raising Anemones (Ignoramus).— We suppose 
you mean the Crown Anemone (Anemone coronaria). 
Sow the seed early in March as soon as the ground is 
in a fit condition, in drills, in an open and sunny 
spot, choosing a well-drained soil. Sow thinly in 
drills 1 foot apart, so that the seedlings may have 
room to develop. By the end of the growing season 
the largest tubers should be of flowering size, and 
may be moved to a place where they can bloom. To 
grow these Anemones well, give them a good depth 
of fairly rich soil and good drainage. 

Weed on lawn (Notsellor ).— The weed you send a 
specimen of is Self heal (l’runclla vulgaris).* You can¬ 
not use a weed-killer, and we doubt jf lawn-sand 
would do any good. The best thing you can do is to 
dig out the weed during the present autumn and 
winter, and in spring put on to the bare places some 
good loamy soil,, sowing down in April with Grass- 
seed. You can, if you care to. apply a top-dressing 
directly you have cleared out: the weed, letting it re¬ 
main all the winter so that the frost may break it 
down, then sowing as advised in April next. 

Treatment of Plumbago (J. //. W’.).-Tlie con¬ 
ditions under which the Plumbago is grown should 
have resulted in it flowering during the past summer 
—that is, if the plant is large enough, but a tem¬ 
perature of 50 degs. to GO degs. is needed in order tu 
develop any flowers during the autumn and winter 
months. The withering complained of is. no doubt, 
caused by the heavy sulphur - laden fogs we have 
already experienced this autumn, as the Plumbago is 
particularly susceptible to injury iu this way. Mildew, 
too. often attacks the leaves iu winter, it is, how¬ 
ever, probable that your plant will break out into 
fresh growth when spring comes, and flower next 
summer. 

Pruning Rose Marechal Niel (Marfehal Sid). 
- We fear this grand old Hose is often recklessly 
pruned. It is only when the trees arc iu a thoroughly 
vigorous condition and the needful artificial heat is 
forthcoming that severe pruning can safely he done. 
It is much better to encourage a free growth for a 
year or two by attaining from all pruning, save 
just shortening a little any unripened wood. Later 
oil. when growth is abundant and roots have well 
laid hold of the soil, the oldest growths may then 
he cut back hard; but it is always well to preserve 
as much as one can of the one-year-old growths until 
they have blossomed. In your case we should recom¬ 
mend you to refrain from pruning at all this season. 
You may not obtain much blossom, tint the plants, if 
healthy, will make all the more growth, ami thus 
ensure .von a good crop next season. 

FRUIT. 

Pruning Apple trees with garden shears 

(.1/. II. IP.).—Certainly not. The garden shears should 
only be used for pruning hedges. Pruning fruit-trees 
with shears causes a mop-head «»f growth, which is 
quite useless for fruit-bearing. The more light and 
air that can reach a fruit-tree the better, provided 
the roots are working freely in good soil with pleuty 
of fibres near the surface. 


SHORT REPLIES. 


(’lemtiitina .—You will lind illustrations of pergolas 
ill the issues for 190(1 of December 8th, December 29th, 
and iu the following issues of the present year: 
January 12th, February 16th. March 9th, April 6th, 
April 20th. and May 11th. Copies or these numbers 
can be had from the publisher.- Kdirard B. John¬ 

son.— Write to Mr. E. Beckett, Aldcnhum House 

Gardens, Elstree, Herts.-./. 0.—No; we should not 

think the disease is due to the chemicals. Thoroughly 
clean the house and clear out all the old soil. You 
will never have any success until you do. When 
sending queries, please read our rules as to sending 

full name and address.- Raven.— We would advise 

you to get- a copy of “Vines and Vine Culture," 
Barron, price 5s. tkl., post free, from 13, Sutton Court- 
road, Chiswick, London, W. In this you will find the 
whole subject of Grape culture fully dealt with, 
numerous illustrations as to keeping when cut and 

packing being given.-/. B. - Yes, the “ Planet 

Junior ” hoes are now quite common in England, and 
ure most useful. Any ironmonger could get one for 
you.-Mr*. IF. J. Trench. —A complete index is com¬ 

piled for every yearly volume. The new volume 
always begins with the first- number in March, and 
ends with the last number iu February of the follow¬ 
ing year. The index is printed separately, and can 
always be had from the publisher, price 3d. A notice 
nppears each year stating that the index for the 
volume is ready. A notice as to Vol. XXVIII. ap¬ 
pears in onr issue of November 9th, p. 489.-IForf/t- 

ing.— Kindly make your query plainer. Do you mean 
for open-air culture or for the grtJenliouseV You can 
only distinguish when in flower.— Rente Lover. Fill 
the space with Kuonymus in variety, using the Vinca 
round the edges and to hang over. U. HVirrf.-Wc 
do not know of, neither can we find any such name 
as Desfontainea solauaeen. Whtn Hurst. The value 
of artificial manures depends eutirely un Live soil. For 
such a soil ns you have you cannot do better than 
use the farmyard manure to which you refer, digging 
it into the ground, and also using it as a mulch 

wherever necessary.- Brereton Watson.—Your lawn 

wants to have two or three good drains put into it, 
and until you do this you will find that the water 
will stand on the surface. The soil in vour district is, 
we understand, very clayey, so without the drains it 
is impossible for the water to get away. 2, No need 
to be alarmed about the trm't; it will come all right 

next spring.- Raven.— A, iojo>will fimLallistof the 

newest! ChrysanthemurA in is '0 ffl Novem¬ 

ber lfltn, p. 493, a listX^tfl lle^c'tjptiSlM ■aBo being 1 


given in the issue of November 9th, p. 484. 2, You 
will find lists of Dahlias in the Issue of Novem¬ 
ber 9th, p. 487. .3, We have always seen Groundsel 

recommended for canaries.- 11. H. S. P .—The only 

thing you can do is to skim it oil. Cannot you try 
and arrange to have running water, and then the 

trouble would, in all probability, disappear? - 

.4. Knight .—Purely a question for a painter, whom 
you should consult. 


NAMES OF PLANTS AND FRUITS. 


Names of plants- — Jack.- Bougainvillea specta- 
bilis. Y'ou will find an article dealing with this incur 
issue of October 28th, 1905. p. 457; a copy can be had 
of the publisher, price lid. H Alien. —Arum itali- 

eum.- Spindle. The Guelder Kc»o (Viburnum Opu- 

lus).- Ignoramus.— The Algerian Iris (Iris btylosa). 

- H. K. Cuff.— Judging from the specimen, minus 

flowers, it is Self-heal (Prunella vulgaris). Imp.— 
We cannot undertake to mune Roses; 2, Looks a good 
deal like Cytioiis fllipes, but impossible to say with j 

certainty from the poor specimen you send.- Toby. 

—We do not undertake to name florist flowers. You 
should grow the sport next year, and submit- blooms 
to the National Chrysanthemum Society's Committee. 

- Shrub. — 1, The Cherry Laurel (Primus Lauro- 

cerasus; 2, Cotoneaster Simonsi; 3. The Portugal 
Laurel. Azores variety (Primus lusitaniea var.azorii a); 
4, Daphne collina. Kenwiy *.—Cosmos bipinnatus. 

Names of fruit.— T. J.— 1. Crimson Queening; 2. 
Golden Spire. Pears: 1, 2, 3, Insufficient specimens. 
-H’ .4. Crmrfoat .- The Wild Pear (Pyrus com¬ 
munis).- J. 7'.— Apple probably Norfolk Beaufln.-- - 

T. M.— Pears; 1, BeiirrO BronzC*; 2, Bishop's Thumb; 

3, Doyen ill? Boussoch.- Lady Shone.— l’car Brown 

Beiirre.-Tom Rogers.— Apple Crimson Queening. 


Catalogues received. -John Fraser, South Wood- 
food, Essex. — General Descriptive List of Roses. Fruit- 
trees. Shrubs, etc. Little and Ballantync, Carlisle. 
-Fruit-trees. Roses, Alpines, ami Trees and Shrubs. 
— Jas. Cocker and Sons, Aberdeen .—Part 7, Roses: 
’. Hardy Herbaceous Plants; !t, Shrubs, Fruit-trees, 
etc. 

A FEW ITEMS FROM BEES’ 
No. 13 BULB CATALOGUE. 

Adonis vernal is. 

“ Ox-eye " or “ Adonis Flower of Spring.' huge golden 
yellow Buttercup-like flowers, 2d. each ; Is. 3d. doz. 

Asclcpias tuberosa. 

“ Swallow wort," masses of orange-scarlet flowers, uno of 
the most showy itcreiinials in cultivation, 3d. each ; ‘2s. do/.. 

Astilbe (Spinea) japonica com- 
pacta multi flora. 

Dense pure white spikes, 3d. each ; 2s. 6d. doz. 

Astilbe japonica lloribunda. 

Spike of a more loose habit, *2id. each ; 2s. 3d. doz. 

Astilbe japonica Lord Salisbury. 

“New," a giant variety, lovely creamy-white spikes of large 
size, 4d. each; 3s. Oil. iloz. 

Dicentra spectabilis (Dielytra). 

“Lyre Flower,” "Bleeding Heart.' lovely rose-crinisun 
flowers hanging from arching stems. 3d. each ; Is. 1(81. doz. 

lncarvillea Delavayi. 

A gem, flowers often over 3 inches long, rich carmine rose 
colour ami with golden-yellow throat, 4d. each; 3s. doz.; 
extra, tkl. each : 5s. doz. 

Send for Bulb Catalogue now ami also Hose Catalogue, 
which we otter more than 509 Roses at 4*1. each. 

Bees, Ltd., 6, Wappinjr Buildings, Liverpool. 


Gardening Study. 

Next year you want to do better than 
ever to increase your varieties, de¬ 
crease your expense, improvt your plants, 
cultivate new flowers and frnit. To 
do this suciosfully git Ihc up-to-date 

THOMPSON’S 

Gardeners'Assistant, 

the recognised Standard Work for 50 
years, now edited by Mr. Wii.liam 
Watson. F.R.H.S., Curntor of Kew 
Gardens, with contributions by 26 other 
experts, and study it during the winter 
months. 

No! it is not. too expensive fur you. 

It is sent immediately, carriage paid, on 
receipt of 4s., and you pay the rest of its 
cost (4£s. net.) by similar small Bums, 
sent monthly. 

Write us for Illustrated Prospectus, 
or send 4s. and get the books by return. - 

THE GRESHAM PUBLISHING CO., 

135, Southampton Street, 
Strand, London, W.C, 


WALLACE’S 

May-flowering Cottage and Darwin 

TULIPS 

have received highest honours from the Royal 
Horticultural Society for several seasons. 

As a means of helping those who are unacquainted with 
the many varieties of Tulips we havo selected six of the finest 
and most interesting from the May-flowering raw:, and offer 
them at a specially low rate. All are first-class sorts of great 
garden value that have received certificates. 

FLAME, fiery scarlet. 

THE FAWN, fawn and apricot. 

LEGHORN BONNET, straw yellow. 

MRS. MOON, clear cllow. 

INGLESCOMBE PINK. Btrnwberry pink. 
INGLESCOMBE SCARLET, scarlet. 

Ten each of the above choice varieties, 60 bulbs in all, fur 
15 Twice the quantity for 27 6. 

Gold Medals, Hardy Plants, Temple Show, 1903 to 1907. 
Unique Record.—Lilies. Calochorti, iris. Ere nmnifd raised by 
the late Sir M. Foster), Monlbrct ias (Davison's seedlings), 
Tritomas, Bulbous, Alpine, and Herbaceous Plains iu end¬ 
less variety. Catalogue free. Kindly mention paper. 


R. WALLACE & CO., 

Kilnheld Gardens, COLCHESTER. 

T. H. LOADER, 

5, Addington Grove. Sydenham, London, S.E 
CLEARANCE OFFER. 

Frcesias, sweet-scented, 100, Is.: 500. ?s. I'd. 

Gloxinias, mixed colours, 12 , Is. fid ; 25. 2 s. Gd. 

Narcis., paper white, 25, Is. Od.; .'> 0 , 2 s. lid. 

Pansies, Bugnot's superb. 12, Is. Gd. ; 25, 2s. Gd. 

Golden Winter Aconites. 50. is. Gd.: loo, 2s. Gd. 
Lovely Iris roticulata. 12, Is. Gd.; 25. 2». Gil. 

Doe’s Tooth Violets, 2 >, i«.; 100 ,3«. Gd. 
Snowdrops, single, 50, Is. ; 250, 4s. 

White Hyacinth La Grandossc, 12. 2s. Gd. 

White Hyacinth Baron Tholl, 12. 2s. Gil. 

White Hyacinths, mixed, 12. 2 s. Gd. ; 50, 5s. 6,1. 

Blush Hyacinth, mixed. 12, 2s. Gd.; 25. 3s. 6»1. 

Pink Hyacinths, Norma, 12, 2s. fid. : 25. 3s fid 
Kine of Blues Hyacinths, 12 , 2s. Gd.; 25, 3s. id. 
Pale Blue Hy., Grand Mai tre, 12, 2s Gd.; 25, 3 b. Cd. 
Yellow Hyacinths. Ida. 12, 2s.; 25. 3s. 

Red Hyacinths. R. Steiger, 12, 2s. Gd.: 25, is. Gd. 

25 Hyacinths, 25 sorts each to name. 3s. 9d. 

Double Hyacinths, mixed. 12, 2s. Gd ; 25, 3a. Gd. 
5-)nch Beading Hyacinths, 12 . In ; 100 . 5s. 
fi-inch Bedding; Hyacinths, 12 , Is. fid ; 100 . 7s fid. 
7-inch Bedding Hyacinths, 12 , 2 s. Gd., 50, 7». Gd. 
Yellow Tulips. Chrysolora, 12, Is. ; 50. 2s. 

Yellow Prince Tulips, early, 12, Is.: 50. 2s. 

Mixed Tulips, all sons. 5U, is.: 250. 3s i:,l. 

Early Blue Scillas, 100, is. fid ; 5uu. a*. 

Sparaxis, mixed colours, 1U0, Is. fid. ; 590, 5a. 

Ixias, mixed colours, ICO. Is. Gd.; 500. 5s. 
Sweet-scented Jonquils, 53. Is ; ion, 2s. Gd. 

Bicolor Narcis. Empress, 12. Is. ; 100. 5s. 

Bicolor Narcis. Grundis. 25, Is.: 100. 3s. Gd. 

Trumpet Daffodil Emperor, 12, Is. ; 100, 5-;. 
Trumpet Daffodil Princeps, 25, Is. ; 100 , 2 s. (VI. 
Double White Daffodils, 25. Is ; 100 , 3s 
Double Yellow Daffodils, 25. is.; up. 3s. 

Double Orangrc Daffodils, 25. is.; 100, 3s. 
Narcis., I’oeticus, white ami red, 100, 2s. Gd. 

144 Narcis. and Daffs., 12«orta, separate, 3s. Gd. 
Mixed Narcis. and Daffs., 100, l». 9d.; 500, 5*. ud. 
200 large Crocus. 10 sorts, 20 each, 4s Gd. 

Lilium candidum, large, G. In. Gd.; 12, 2s. 61. 
single Tiger Lilies, 25, is. Gd.: 100.3s. Gd. 

Double Tiger Lilies, 12, is. fid.; 50. 4s. ai 
Lilium spcciosum Melpomene, 6, 2 s. fid. 

Lilium umbellatum. large red, 12 . 2 s. fid. 

CrOCUS. mixed, all sorts, 50, Is. tkl.; 100. 2s. Ikl. 
Dielytra, Bleeding Heart, 12, 3s. fid. ; 25, 5s. 

White Xmas Roses, giant clumps, is. 9d. each. 

Iris Angelica, mixed. 25, Is.; 100. 3s 
Iris Hispanlca. mixed, loo, is.; 500 .4s. 

Gladioli, white. The Bride, 59, Is. : 250. 3s 6>1. 

g ladioli. Blushing Bride, 50, Is. ; 250, 3s fid. 

ladlOli, mixed, all sorts, 100, 2s. fid. 

Belladonna Lilies, giant bulbs, 6. 2» tkl. 

A nomatheca. Scarlet Frcesias, 50. is. fid . loo. 2s Gd. 
Anemone, mixed, large forms, 50, Is. Gd.: 100, 2 s. Gil. 
White Italian Hyacinths, 12, 2 «. Gd.; 50. 7s 6d 
English and Japanese Paeonies. fi. 2 s. Gd.; 12 ,3s Gd. 
Parrot Tulips, mixed, 50, Is.; 250, 3s. fid. 

Write for Catalogues. 



Indispensable to all Lovers of Garden are our new 
HOSES AND BULBS. 

CATALOGUES, containing 100unpublished Illustrations, 
full Cultural Directions, 6ent free on application by 

GEMEN & BOURG, 

LUXEMBOURG (Grand Duchy). 

The largest Rose Browers anil Bidb Importers of Lho 
Continent. Orders from £1 sent free of charge. 
it-iT Our products arc Stronger, Hardier, and Cheaper than 
anywhere else 

ROSES ON OWN ROOTS. 

12 choice H.P., 6 -; 12 choice H.T. and T., 7.6. List free 

BORDER CARNATIONS. 

12 sterling varieties, 4G to 5/6. List on application. 
HARDY HEATHS. Succeed in any sandy 
sod free from lime. 12 choice sorts, 4 0. 

BEAUTIFUL BERRY-BEARINC SHRUBS. 

6 good plants for 3,EL 

J. J. MARRIOTT, Nurseries, Sutton Coldfield. 


Advertisements Intended for next 
home, roaoH i:a fcoforo November 22. 


lssuo 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


No. 1,499.—You XXIX. 


Founded by V. Jtobineon, Author of “The Knqlieh Flower Garden." XO\ KM1JKK 30, 190*. 


INDEX. 


AgapauthuH umbellalus 
Ampelopsis, propaga¬ 
ting . 

Apple Grenadier 
Apple Miller's Seedling 
Apple-trees, canker in.. 
Asparagus beds in win¬ 
ter . 

Asters—tall, branching 

kinds . 

Auriculas, woolly-aphis 

on. 

Bear's Breoeh(Acanthus) i 
Herberts Wilsoine 
Berry-bearing shrubs . 

Birds . 

Border at 8U Ann's, a 
mixed .. 

Border, herbaceous 
Borders, sheltered 
Borders, Westmoreland, 
on 8t. Martin s-day .. 


528 

Bulbs, rat* ami .. 

531 

Chrysanthemums sin- 


Garden diary, extracts 



Carnation Yallcr Gul .. 

529 

gle-flowered 

523 

from a. 

531 1 

532 

Carnations, Malmaison 

A3I 

Cinerarias, drooping .. 

531 


530 

530 

Carnations, Marguerite 

531 

Clerodendron fcettdum 

520 

Grass, grubs in .. 

.531 

53U 

Celeriac, growing 

532 

Conservatory 

53) 

Indoor plants 

528 

532 

Chrysanthemum Mrs. 
W. Knox 


Daffodils, forcing 

52 i 

Insects for name 

.519 


523 

Dcndrobium W ardia- 


Kainit, using 

519 

519 

Chrysanthemum Nina 


man . 

521 

Law and custom 

,531 


Blick . 

523 

Ep'dendrum vorrueo- 


Lawn, worms in.. 

5,11 

.»2t» 

Chrysanthemum Ro- 


sum . 

521 

IiCspedeza Sieboldi 

520 


mancc. 

523 

Fern, Asparagus, fail- 


Magnolia, the .Starry .. 

55W 

531 

Chrysanthemums, a few 


ing . 

522 

Narcissus poetic us 


o2b 

early promising 

533 

Ferns . 

521 


527 ! 

520 

Chrysanthemums after 


Ferns, some decldu- 


Obituary — James 11. 


5-20 

blooming 

523 

OU8 . 

521 

Veitch. 

531 , 

531 

Chrysanthemums, gar- 


Flowers, hardy, in an- 


Odontogloasum grande 

55 ► 


den . 

522 

tumu . 

527 

Orchid* 

521 

525 

Chrysanthemums-j udg- 


Forcing-house .. 

530 

Outdoor gardeu .. 

530 

527 

ing by points .. 

522 

Fruit . 

529 

Outdoor plants .. 
Pansies, Tufted, in win- 

525 

5 'll 

Chrysanthemums, lead- 


Fruit garden 

530 



ing, at the Crystal 
Palace show .. 


Fruit stores, in the 

,.30 

ter, propagating 

529 , 

527 

522 

Garden climbers 

525 

Peach-tree, a fine 

530 ' 


Peach-tree, regrafLing a 523 
Peaches, forcing.. .. .">3) 

Pear Belle Julie.. .. 530 

Pears failing .. 532 

Pelargoniums failing .. 531 
Pelargoniums. Zonal, 
for winter floweriug.. 528 
Physalis, or Bladder 
Cherry, the .. .. 526 

Plant* and flowers .. 521 

Plants, foliage, indoors 530 
Plum - tree, Victoria, 

dying.529 

Potatoes, forcing .. 519 
R.H.S. Hall, letting the 531 
Rose plants, replanting 
old.. .. .. .. 52-1 

Rose Heine Marie Hen¬ 
rietta .521 

Roses .. .. .. 524 

Roses from cuttings .. 531 
Roses hybridising .. 521 


Rosea, late - flowering 
climbing and pillar .. 
Roses on pillars 
•Salvia patens 
Star-flower (Triteleia 
uniflora), the Spring.. 
Strawberries, current 
work among 
Strawberries in not* .. 
Tonks' manure 
Trees and shrubs 
Urceol i na an rea.. 
Vegetable garden 
Vegetables 

Vegetables and fruit- 
trees, manuring 
Wall coverings for win¬ 
ter and early spring .. 
Walnut-tree not fruit¬ 
ing . 

Week's work, the com¬ 
ing . 


531 

319 

519 

520 
533 
531 


VEGETABLES. 

ASPARAGUS BEDS IN WINTER. 
The lateness of the season is apparent in the 
growth of Asparagus, causing delay in its 
winter treatment. Weeds are much in evi¬ 
dence this year, because of the weather 
which has marked the summer of 1907. Now 
that the cleaning of the beds is possible, the 
weeds can he dealt with, and of late years, 
instead of wheeling them away, as was for¬ 
merly the custom, I now dig them into the 
alleys between the bed*, where they accumu¬ 
late humus and plant-food. The custom in 
many gardens is to first clear away weeds, 
and then afford a heavy coat of manure, 
wholly or part decayed, covering this further 
with soil dug from the dividing alleys by 
eutting deep, perpendicular sides with the 
spade. 1 have looked upon this practice as 
an unnecessarily laborious one, but where 
the custom has obtained for many years with 
success, I should certainly not advise any 
change. Undoubtedly, Asparagus enjoys, 
and really needs, liberal coatings of manure 
to keep it vigorous and productive. T saw 
this autumn beds that were known to be over 
sixty years planted, and which were then as 
full of vigorous growths as it was possible for 
them to be; indeed, they were the best I 
have seen for some time. These are given the 
usual winter dressings of manure, though not 
to the same extent as is followed by some. 
If weeds such as Couch-Grass, Bindweed, or 
Nettles become established, it may be neces¬ 
sary to destroy the roots occupying this 
ground, for nothing one can do will free the 
beds of these obnoxious weeds without inflict¬ 
ing injury on the crop. Deeply cut alleys 
help to maintain a drier state of the surface 
on heavy land, rendering the plants safer 
against wet and cold. Without this treat¬ 
ment Asparagus crowns are liable to decay— 
sometimes to a serious extent—from the in¬ 
fluence of stagnant moisture and cold conse¬ 
quent on the presence of such excess of soil- 
moisture. Much as Asparagus delights in 
abundance of root-moisture in summer, there 
is this danger of loss if the ground is in¬ 
sufficiently drained. It is regarded by some 
as a barbarous practice to shear off the roots 
in the alleys in the course of digging them 
out, exposing as it does the mutilated roots 
to the action of the weather, but I have recol¬ 
lections of the finest and most productive 
l»eds that arc subjected to ill is apparently 
drastic winter treatment. I do not advocate 
the rub* only in the case id heavy land, and 
especially where draining lias not been suf 
ficiently provided. West Wilts. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Using kainlt- —What quantity of kainlt should 1 
apply at the present time to laud on which I intend 
planting Potatoes?—J. F. 

[The previous treatment of the land should 
always be a consideration in deciding on the 
artificials to be used, and you should also 
not have omitted to state whether you in¬ 


tend to use any other 


mAnitre with I 

TjO 


ainit 


for your crop of Potatoes. In the absence 
of definite information, all that can be said 
is that the dressing may vary from 2 cw t. to 
double that quantity, or even more, per 
acre.] 

Forcing Potatoes. — 1 have a glasshouse, 
150 feet long by 25 feet wide, heated with three 
4-inch hot-water pipes. Loth sides and ends, and 1 
have been thinking of trying some early Potatoes. 1 
have had no experience in growing Potatoes indoors, 
and 1 should be thankful for some advice on how to 
go on, and the varieties to grow? Do you think 
they would come off, so that I could get a crop of 
Tomatoes before Tomatoes come in outdoors? — 
U. A. B. 

[In tv huus'3 such a* you name, and from 
which frost can be excluded, it. is quite pos¬ 
sible to raise a good crop of curly Potatoes. 
As to whether the crop would pay or not, we 
arc not in a position to say, as you give us no 
clue as to your locality, and how far you are 
from the nearest provincial or metropolitan 
markets. We should, however, imagine it 
would pay, provided you take steps to get the 
planting doue at the earliest possible moment, 
so that you may be in a position to begin 
“lifting” early in the year. From another 
point- of view, early planting and lifting are 
essential, seeing that you wish for Tomatoes 
to follow the Potatoes without loss of time. 
To this end the first thing to do is procure 
the necessary number of sets, put them on 
end close together iu shallow boxes having 
a little leaf-mould or similar material in the 
bottom, and place them in a light, airy house 
to sprout. Good varieties for forcing are 
Sharpe’** Victor. Epicure. Snowdrop, and the 
old AsbLeaf. The next thing is to prepare 
the soil for planting, and, assuming that 
there is the customary central footpath, with 
a border on either side reaching up to the 
front walls, in which, no doubt, you have 
been in the habit of growing Tomatoes, all 
that is necessary will be to manure and dig 
it over. If, on the contrary, the borders have 
not hitherto been put to such purpose, they 
should be double dug, and as much well- 
rotted manure incorporated with the soil as 
its condition may appear necessary to de¬ 
mand. Old hot-bed manure, if you have it, is 
excellent for early Potatoes, and this you 
can mix with the other manure for the top 
spit-, or use it alone. Rotten manure will 
suffice for the bottom spit, which break up 
and leave in the same position. If you have 
soil of a heavy nature to deal with, burnt re¬ 
fuse, wood-ashes, pjKint Mushroom dung, or 
tin 1 old soil from beneath the potting bench, 
will materially assist iu lightening and ren¬ 
dering it more suited for the purpose under 
consideration. The preparation of the soil 
completed, planting may take place at once. 
This is done in the usuaL way, in furrows or 
drills, drawn 5 inches deep, and 18 inches 
apart, placing the Ashleaf varieties 15 inches 
apart in the drills, and the other sort** named 
18 inches apart. After-culture will consist in 
supplying water to the roots whenever the 
soil becomes at all dry, but we should at the 
same time point out that an excess of root 
moisture is inimical to Potato forcing, and 


in drawing soil up to the sliaws in the usual 
manner as soon as they are high enough for 
moulding. Some growers, instead of mould¬ 
ing, top-dress between the rows with a 0-inch 
layer of fairly rich soil instead. To keep the 
tops dwarf and sturdy, and capable of per¬ 
forming their proper functions, a free circu¬ 
lation of air i* necessary, and the tempera¬ 
ture should not exceed 60 (legs, nor fall below 
50 dogs, with the aid of fire-heat. In light 
wrather the temperature will exceed the first- 
named figures by 10 clegs, or 15 (legs., but 
will do no harm, provided ample ventilation 
is afforded. Lifting may take place before 
the tops become matured, but the best way 
to ascertain when the tubers are large enough 
to pay for lifting is to dig up a root or two 
of each variety, after sufficient time has 
elapsed, and be guided by results. If the 
Tomatoes are ready to set out as the Pota¬ 
toes come off, no loss of time should ensue.] 

Manuring vegetables and fruit-trees.— Will 
you kindly tell me the most suitable chemical 
manures to apply, instead of farmyard manure, to 
1, Cabbages; 2, Rhubarb; 3, Seakale; 4, Fruit-trees 
(Apple, Pear, and Plum)?—V illa Garden, Bourne¬ 
mouth. 

[In all such cases, as we have often stated, 
it its advisable to consider what the condition 
of the hind is, its character, and the treat¬ 
ment it has previously had. Without in¬ 
formation on thit* point, it is not possible to 
prescribe with any degree of certainty what 
artificial manure should be used. Speaking 

enerallv. however, it can he said that Cub¬ 
ages will always repay for dressings of 
nitrate of seal a (which should be given only 
when the plants are in active growth), and so 
will Rhubarb. Seakale needs potash. In the 
ease of fruit-trees, you will probably find 
that both' potassic and phosphatic manures 
will give good results. The use of lime iu 
some form or other is advisable in the case 
of stone-fruits. The above can be had of any 
artificial manure manufacturer. For obvioun 
reasons, we cannot recommend any one manu¬ 
facturer.] 

Insects for name.—1 send herewith three bottles 
(numbered), and 1 should bo greatly obliged for in¬ 
formation as to the insects contained in them. Tin* 
insects were caught in Potato and other traps in a 
bed in a conservatory. The numbers of No. 1 ami 
No. 3 are very large, and traps must be a slow pro¬ 
cess of extermination. Is there any more speedy 
method?—A. M. 

[The bottle No. 1 contained specimens of 
the spotted snake millipede (Blanjulus gut - 
tulatus), a very destructive pest to the roots 
of plants. No. 2 contained specimens of the 
flattened snake milli)>edo (Polydesinus com* 
planatus). No. 3 contained k|km imeus of one. 
of the Poduridie, or spring tails. Trapping 
them in tin* wav you have done is very effec¬ 
tive, but is certainly a slow process. You 
might try vaporite, a compound recently in¬ 
vented to work into the soil. It is said to be 
very successful in destroying any insects, 
etc., that are in the soil. I believe full direc¬ 
tions for its use are sold with the tins con¬ 
taining the insecticide. Your traps should 
be buried just below the Surface of the soil. 

- G UftftlERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 

























520 


GARDEN 1A G ILL USIRATED. 


Novemuek 30, 1907 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 

BEHBERIS WILSONS. 

This new Barberry was discovered in Central 
China by Mr. E. H. Wilson, when travelling 
for Messrs. James Veitch and Sons, Ltd., 
Chelsea. It was shown before the floral com¬ 
mittee of the Royal Horticultural Society on 
October 15th last, when it was unanimously 
awarded a first-class certificate. The leaves 
in autumn in its native country are said to 
assume a very brilliant hue. The branches, 
as in B. stenophylla, gracefully arch over, the 
clear yellow flowers being succeeded by 
bright red globular berries, which ripen to 
wards the end of October. The berries, when 
the plant was shown, were not quite ripe. It 
will, no doubt, be valuable for its richly- 
coloured foliage and berries in the autumn. 
The illustration shows part of a branch from 
a photograph taken in Messrs. Veitch’s nur- 


the principal being C. bacillaris, a large 
1 vigorous growing kind, with small brown 
berries; C. frigida, a large, spreading bush 
or small tree, with bright-crimson fruits that 
remain on a long time ; and the smaller grow- 
| ing C. Simoni, the berries of which are, how¬ 
ever, somewhat late in the autumn before they 
assume their bright tints. The evergreen C. 
microphylla fruits freely, and though the 
berries are small and by no means brightly 
coloured, they, at. all events, afford variety. 
The broad-leaved Spindle-tree(Euonymus lati- 
folius) is more attractive than the commoner 
E. europteus, and altogether it is one of the 
showiest of autumn shrubs. It forms a large, 
upright bush, a dozen feet or more in height, 
thickly studded, if in a good, open situation, 
with its bright-coloured fruits. They are 
composed of red pendulous capsules, which 
open when ripe, the orange-coloured seeds 
hanging therefrom by slender filaments. The 
I various single Roses are all very attractive 


Portiou of a fruiting growth of Berberis Wilson®. From a photograph in Messrs. Yeitoh'g 
nursery at Coombe Wood. 



series, at Coombe \\ ood. It is named in 
compliment to the wife of the collector. 


BERRY-BEARING SHRUBS. 

OF berry-bearing shrubs attractive just how 
the most conspicuous are the following : Some 
of the Barberries, of which the common Ber¬ 
beris vulgaris is second to none in the bright¬ 
ness and profusion of its fruit, besides which, 
from their sharp nature, they are not so much 
sought after by birds as are most of the au¬ 
tumnal fruits. The Sea Buckthorn (Ilipponhae 
vhamnoides) retains its silvery foliage well on 
into the autumn, and at the same time the 
berries, which are produced in such numbers, 
assume their bright-yellow colour. A moist 
soil is best suited for this shrub. The Bladder 
Sennas (Col u teas) do well in hot and dry 
soils, and their large inflated seed-pods give 
them a distinct and curious appearance in 
early autumn. Cotoneasters of different. 6orts 
are very attractive jnitmnn and winter shrub6, 

Digitized by VjOOQlC 


by reason of their bright-coloured fruits, and 
in the case of R. rugosa the large, rosy- 
crimson blooms are generally produced till 
frosts set in, so that ripe fruits and blossoms 
are often seen on the same plant. The berries 
of this Rose are large, and orange-scarlet in 
colour. R. lucida, crimson ; R. cinnamomea, 
crimson ; R. spinosissima, dark ; and R. vil- 
lcsa, bright-red, with long, prominent bracts, 
are among the most showy. Skimmia 
I japonica is a pretty little red-berried shrub 
i that does best in shady spots. The European 
Box Thorn (Lycium europium) is a slender, 

! scrambling bush, with crimson fruits borne 
| for some distance along its slender shoots. 
Maule’e Cydonia, that is so thickly laden with 
flowers in the spring, is in the autumn equally 
showy, having bright-golden fruits tinged with 
red on the sunny side —that is, where it fruits 
freely, but such does not always appear to be 
the case. The Snowberry (Svmphoricarpus 
racemosus) with white fruits i? distinct among 
I other berry-bearing shrubs. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

The starry Magnolia (Magnolia stellata, 
svn. M. Halleana).—Planters of flowering 
shrubs should remember this dwarf Magnolia 
when sending for their shrubs and small 
trees. It is hardy far north of the Tweed; 
it flowers in a very small state—a foot or so 
high ; it is a slow grower, and takes a long 
time to reach its maximum of 7 feet or 8 feet; 
and it gives its pure white flowers compara¬ 
tively freely in spring. These flowers are 
very large for the size of the plant whicu 
yields them, and, with their narrow petals, 
arc delightfully attractive in their season. 
There is a pinkish form, called rosea, and 
either will be an acquisition to the large or 
small garden. They may be planted from 
now until March in any good soil.—S. A. 

Clerodendron foetldum.— The Cleroden- 
drons are for the most part tender plants, 
remarkable for the beauty of their blossoms, 
and the dissimilarity that exists between the 
different species. Only two may be con¬ 
sidered hardy even in the southern part of the 
country, and, though both flower in the 
autumn, they would not, by the uninitiated, 
be taken as belonging to the same genus. One 
of them—Clerodendron trichotomum—at¬ 
tains the dimensions of a small tree, and the 
flowers, which are disposed in an open 
panicle, are white, but protrude from large 
red calyces after the manner of several of the 
indoor kinds. On the other hand, Cleroden¬ 
dron foetidum, from a stout root-stock, pushes 
up sturdy shoots, of annual duration, to a 
height of 4 feet to 5 feet. The large, bold, 
heart-shaped leaves are decidedly ornamen¬ 
tal, while the flowers are of a bright rosy-red 
tint, and arc deeper in colour in the bud state 
than they are after expansion. They are 
packed very closely together in a large ter¬ 
minal head, and when at their best arc very 
showy. As the flowers are sweetly scented, 
the name of foetidum appears to be somewhat 
of a misnomer; but if the leaves are bruised, 
or even roughly handled, the correctness of 
the name is at once apparent. Beside the 
specific name of foetidum, this is also known 
as Clerodendron Bungei. It flowers best 
when planted at the foot of a south wall or 
in some similar position. In the event of a 
severe winter, the protection afforded by a 
few leaves over the roots will be helpful. C. 
foetidum is a native of China, and C. triclio- 
tomum of Japan.—X. 

Lespedeza Sieboldl.— The old name for 
this is Dcsmodium penduliflorum, and as such 
it is far better known in gardens and nur¬ 
series. Given a fine, bright autumn and 
immunity from sharp frosts, it is very showy 
when but few shrubs are in bloom. True, 
though classed with shrubs, it may be said 
to occupy tho borderland which separates 
the shrubs from herbaceous plants, for, 
though the root-stock is of a woody nature, 
the long flowering shoots are only of annual 
duration, as they are killed to the base each 
winter. Thus, to all intents and purposes, 
this Lespedeza must be regarded in the light 
of a herbaceous plant. Like most of tho 
Leguminosoe, to which it belongs, the roots 
of this are somewhat thong-like, and of a 
deep descending nature. The shoots pro 
duced from the upper part of the thickened 
root-stock are slender, wand-like, and reach 
a height of 5 feet to 7 feet. They are clothed 
with trifoliate leaves, and terminated by 
large racemes of rosy-purplo Pea-shaped 
blossoms, at their best, as a rule, dur¬ 
ing the last half of September and be¬ 
ginning of October. When fully grown, it 
forms an exceedingly graceful specimen, the 
weight of tho flower racemes causing the 
long6hoots to arch over in a pleasing manner. 
It is occasionally grown in pots and employed 
for greenhouse decoration, but is not often 
used in this way. Outside it is seen to great 
advantage in a bed or mass, but in planting, 
its absolute bareness during the winter must 
be borne in mind. This Lespedeza is a 
native of northern China and Japan, and 
has been grown in our gardens for forty 
years or thereabouts.—X. 


Index to Volume XXVIII. -The binding covers 
(price Is. 6d. each, post free, Is. 9d.) and Index (3d., 
post free. 3}d.) for Volume XXVIII. are now ready, 
and may be had of all newsagents, or of the Pub¬ 
lisher, pbst free, 2s. for the two. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




521 


November 30, 190? 


CA ItDEMNG IL L V ST 11A TED. 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 


ORCHIDS. 

ODONTOGLOSSUM GRANDE. 

This valuable autumn-flowering Odonto- 
glossuni is a strong-growing plant with deep 
green leaves and pseudo-bulbs growing very 
closely together. The flower spikes are pro¬ 
duced at the time the pseudo-bulbs are finish¬ 
ing their growth. The number of flowers 
produced on each varies from three to eight, 
the latter number not often being exceeded. 
Each blossom will measure from 6 inches to 
6 inches across the petals, which, as well as 
the sepals, are of a bright yellow, more or less 
heavily blotched with bright chestnut. The 
lip is yellowish-white in ground colour, with 
a few brown spots and markings, and the 
whole flower has a glossy, shining appear¬ 
ance, as though varnished. The flowers, if 
they are kept dry, last from three weeks to a 
month in perfect condition. O. grande, when 


abundant and constant supply of fresh air is 
an important detail in growing O. grande, 
the foliage under this treatment taking on a 
russetty look that indicates vigorous health, 
the flowers, too, being of better colour and 
having more substance than if the plants are 
grown in a very close house. 

This Orchid is more constant in its time of 
growing and blooming than most kinds, and 
I usually rests awhile after flowering. During 
1 this period very little water will suffice—just 
enough to keep the bulbs plump—but while 
growing freely it requires an ample supply. | 
O. grande is a native of dense forests in the 
neighbourhood of Guatemala, whence it was 
introduced in 1839. 

NOTES AND REPLIES . 

Epidendrum verrucosum- I shall be very glad 
I if you can tell me the name of this Orchid? It has 
not flowered since I have had it, so 1 can only send this 
stalk and leaves. I have seen it in bloom in Jamaica. 

| It has large clusters of flowers, as many as a hundred 
on one stalk. The top part of the flower is light 
yellow and the lower part darker yellow.—H. C. 

[Seldom can one identify an Epidendrum 


until the flower-buds have pushed well out 
from the 6tem, when they may be brought 
into an intermediate-house where the night 
temperature is kept at about 55 degs. As the 
flower-buds appear it will be seen that new 
breaks are beginning to start from the base 
of the flowering bulb. It is then the plants 
require very careful treatment, for if they 
are kept too warm these growths advance 
very rapidly, and thus prevent the flowers 
arriving at perfection. If the plants are 
kept cool and in a moderately dry condition, 
these new breaks will remain almost station¬ 
ary, after they have grown a few inches, 
until the flowering season is past, after which 
period, if placed under suitable growing con- 
I ditions, thev will develop vigorously.— 
I W. B. L._ 

FERNS. 

SOME DECIDUOUS FERNS. 

(Reply to “Hyson.”) 

| More attention might very advantageously 
be given to this section. Most of them 
die off towards the winter, thus allow- 



O.lo.itoKlossnm grande. Prom a photograph in the gardens at Qunnershnry House, Acton, " 


iportiil in good condition, is one of tho 
siest of Orchids to establish. The safest 
an is to lay the plants for a time on a moist 
age, placing them in pots as soon as they 
■e plumped up and commencing to root. 
Fter they are established, it is a very easy 
atter to keep the plants healthy, the ordl- 
ary cool-house treatment being all that is 
•cessary. The pots should he just large 
lough to contain them easily, and proper 
•ainage must l»e given. A thin layer of 
>ugh compost, consisting of three parts of 
nit to one of chopped Sphagnum Moss, with 
good sprinkling of rough pieces of charcoal 
• crocks, is what, the plants delight in, and 
hile pressing this firmly enough to keep the 
seudo-bulbs from moving, endeavour to have 
as light and porous as possible, the roots 
dng somewhat larger than those of most 
’her kinds. The summer temperature can 
nrdly be kept too low, and the plants must, 
t this season, l>e heavily shaded, O. grande 
eing found growing naturally under these 
editions. During winter, however, the 
lanis like a little more warmth than is 
fTorded such species as O. crispum. An 


Google 


without flowers, but the erect, warty stem, 
leaves, and flowers all agree with the de- 
! scription of the original Epidendrum verrn- 
cosum, named by Olaff Swartz many years 
■ ago This is a very different- plant from that 
i which Lindley named E. verrucosum, that 
species being synonymous with the well- 
known Epidendrum nemorale. The plant 
sent for identification is a native of Jamaica 
and other West India Islands. W e should 
presume that as you have seen the plant 
flowering in its native habitat you will know 
| exactly its cultural requirements, and, there¬ 
fore, should find no difficulty in getting the 
i plant to produce a strong inflorescence.] 
Dendrobium Wardianum. -This beautiful 
Dendrobium is as well known as D. nobile, 
and its cultural requirements arc almost 
identical. Where plants of this Dendrobium 
iiave been grown in an intermediate tem¬ 
perature during the summer months, and on 
the completion of growtli were placed in a 
I cooler and drier atmosphere, they will soon 
I begin to show the flower-buds from the nodes 
of the current season’s growth. Let the 
plants remain in their cool resting quarters 


ing more room for other things—in it¬ 
self an advantage in many respects. 
These Ferns are not. probably so often 
seen as they would otherwise be, simply 
because they are deciduous. This may 
be attributed in some instances, no 
doubt, to non-attention when they be¬ 
come shabby; not that they want a 
great amount, of care, hut they 
should not be allowed to get too dry. 
If the soil be kept in a happy medium, 
the plants will be right enough, and 
will, after a rest, start with renewed 
vigour. Any attention that may be 
needed in the* way of potting should be 
seen to as soon as the young fronds be¬ 
gin to make a move; if, however, any 
increase by division is necessary, that 
should be‘done a little sooner, so as 
not to cause any injury. As the 
growth begins tc rise away from the 
soil, see that the plants are kept well 
up to the light to prevent the stems be¬ 
coming too long and slender. When 
the first fronds are more fully de¬ 
veloped, the majority of these Ferns 
will take water very freely, affording in 
this respect quite a contrast to the pre¬ 
vious or dormant treatment; but as 
signs of fading and disposition to cease 
growing are apparent, then withhold 
the water gradually. 

Of all these Ferns, there are none to 
surpass 

Leucostegia immersa, the plant 
about which you inquire. This in ap¬ 
pearance closely resembles Davallia 
Mooreana, unless it be closely in¬ 
spected, when the difference is appa¬ 
rent. It is of smaller and more com¬ 
pact growth, making beautiful little 
plants in 5-inch and 6-inch pots. If 
larger plants are needed, then use 
pans in preference to pots. Another 
excellent way of growing this 
lovely Fern is in baskets. These may be of 
wire, of rustic-work, or of pottery-ware, in 
any of which it thrives well and makes a 
mass of roots. The best effect is obtained 
with this Fern when grown well exposed to 
the light. The bronzy tints then assumed 
render it most attractive, whilst this kind of 
growth is also the most durable. It is easily 
increased by division, and there should be 
no difficulty in obtaining a stock thus or by 
spores. It is now included amongst the 
Davallias. Davallia immersa sounds quite 
as well, but one is often accustomed to the 
older names, and does not readily relinquish 
them. It may he grown in a cool stove or 
temperate house with the greatest success. 
Another good Fern of this class is 

Davallia bullata (the. Squirrel’s-foot 
Fern), one of the prettiest of the dwarfer 
I species, and one which should find a place 
in the smallest collection. This also makes a 
beautiful basket Fern, is easily grown and as 
easily increased by division. It is also ad¬ 
mirably suited to* the fernery for growing 
upon walls or pillars, or it may be cultivated 
with equal suqqeeft ipj^itiier pots or pans, 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 








GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Nuvemueh 30, 1007 


022 


flat or mounded up, as may be desired. This 
Fern will, with good attention in the way 
of top-dressing, remain in good health for 
some years without making up. This, how¬ 
ever, should be done occasionally, doing 
away with the older rhizomes in the process. 
In small pots it is a very suitable Fern for 
decoration, whilst for supplying cut fronds 
i( is one of the best. that, can be grown, the 
fronds lasting well in the young as well as 
in the mature slate. The smallest fronds 
make capital material for backing-up button¬ 
holes. 

Davallia dissect a is another good Fern 
of this class, particularly n<s a decorative 
variety for clothing walls, for baskets, and 
for cutting, giving a good supply of fronds 
in the autumn. Like the foregoing, it may 
be grown in the temperate house. 

Amongst the A diant urns there are some 
which come under this category also. 

Adiaxtcm concinm t m, a gem amongst the 
Maidenhairs when well grown, does best 
when treated as a deciduous Fern. This 
species is not nearly enough grown ; in fact, 
it seems to escape notice almost entirely, 
whilst the larger form. A. coneinnum latum, i 
comes in for a much larger share of atten¬ 
tion. Both of these, but more particularly 
the typo (A. oonciiiiiuin) do best in the warm 
stove, where this species makes a beautiful 
basket plant. 

A. /f.thiopiccm ASSiMii.E is another very 
charming deciduous Fern, casting its fronds 
in November, and starting into fresh growth 
again in March. This is essentially a 
Maidenhair Fern for the many, being easily 
cultivated in a cool house ; in fact, it has been 
known to live out-of-doors through the win¬ 
ter. It makes a very pleasing basket plant, 
the creeping rhizomes appearing around the 
sides and the bottom. The fronds are pale 
green in colour, but do not last well when 
cut. 

A. amabile, also known under the name of 
A. Moorei, makes a beautiful basket Fern, 
having in this respect the properties of the 
foregoing species, but possibly in a' more 
marked degree. It is a rapid-growing Fern, 
nearly or quite (according to the tempera¬ 
ture) losing its fronds in the winter. It can 
be kept in a temperature of 45 degs., but is 
safer in 10 degs. higher. In the stove it 
makes one of the very finest of basket Ferns. 

A. I.DNULATUM, another deciduous species, 
should be grown ns a basket plant, or, at 
any rate, suspended if in a pot. As it re¬ 
produces itself from the extremities of the 
fronds, it soon makes a good growth when 
once it is started. This is also one that re¬ 
quires a liberal supply of water; even when 
dormant it should not" be allowed to dry up. 

A. pedati m is one of the prettiest of all, 
particularly whilst the fronds are still young. 
This species may he safely wintered in a cold 
frame or out-of-doors, even in the more 
favoured localities. In its wild state it is 
found in both hemispheres, being widely dis¬ 
tributed. For planting out in the cool 
fernery it. can be highly recommended. Its 
hardiness has been well tested in some locali¬ 
ties. Shallow planting is not advisable, par¬ 
ticularly in cold situations. As a pot plant, 
it can be strongly recommended, lasting a 
long time in good condition. 

Lygoditm rcandeks does best when 
treated as a deciduous Fern, thus affording a 
suitable opportunity for making a wholesale 
clearance of any insect pests, to which it is 
oftentimes predisposed. Scale and thrips 
are the enemies in this respect, and these 
cannot always be cleared out of such slender 
growth. As growth ceases in the autumn, 
the plants should be kept fairly dry, then, 
after a time, as the fronds become shabby, 
they may all be out off. When required 
mainly for cutting, the better way is to train 
each frond up a slender string from the early 
growth, keeping each one to itself, so that it 
can be readily taken off when wanted. For 
twining round tall vases, rustic arches, etc., 
these fronds are extremely useful, particu¬ 
larly when the fertile ones are fully de¬ 
veloped. We have seen it grown well on the 
back wall of a vinery. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Asparagus Tern failing I have an Asparnpns 
K. in. uhi.Ii preM stmnply ami In a great hetpht. 
Sij.|iltiil> tin- leaven turned yellow nrfd were covered 

Digitized by GCL >21^ 


with a kind of dust. Some months ago I had it 
carefully repotted. It seemed heulthy, started well, 
and green; now it is turning yellow again. What 
can 1 do?—G lendalouch. 

[You give us no particulars of the condi¬ 
tions under which your plant referred to as 
Asparagus Fern (but presumably it is As¬ 
paragus plumosus) is grown, hence any sug¬ 
gestions as to the cause of its ill-healtli might 
be very wide of the mark. We do not under¬ 
stand what you refer to ns a kind of dust 
with which the leaves were covered. It may. 
perhaps, have been mildew. Though anxious 
to oblige as far ns we can, it is quite im¬ 
possible to answer in a manner satisfactory 
to us such a question as yours. By far the 
better way will be to get a practical gardener 
in the neighbourhood to look at your plant 
and advise thereon.] 


CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

JUDGING BY POINTS. 

Alt, who have any experience of exhibiting 
and judging have learned how essential it is 
to carefully ascertain, by a system of point¬ 
ing, the comparative merits of the several 
stands of flowers which may be in competi¬ 
tion. When judging is decided simply on 
casual survey, mistakes are sure to follow, 
and what heartburning is set up when the 
awards denote the unfairness of decisions ! 
Practical exhibitors do not cavil over de¬ 
cisions which are not in their favour if it is 
clearly seen the judgment is right; but when 
superficial judgments only are given, then 
there i« sure to be criticism, more or less 
justifiable. Not only is it unfair to exhibitors 
to allow such methods to be passed, but it 
also calls into question the unreliability of the 
judges. If decisions, without pointing, 
can be given between a number of 
stands, there is not much merit usually 
present. I recently heard somo ad¬ 
verse comments on the decision in a cut 
bloom contest, and, to Verify the rights and 
wrongs of the interested parties, it was de¬ 
cided by some onlookers—equally expe¬ 
rienced growers and exhibitors—to point up 
the blooms in dispute. This having been 
done, it was found that the decision of the 
judges was wrong, for there were at least 
two points in favour of the second prize 
stand. In this exhibit there occurred a bloom 
which was not considered first-class, and the 
inference was that the adverse decision was 
due only to the presence of this particular 
flower. If this were so. it clearly proves 
how fallacious is judging based on such lines, 
because, though this particular bloom was 
weak, there were others which more than 
compensated in their higher averages. No 
system is so fair as that of pointing, and no 
fair judgment can lx* arrived at by any other 
means. The merits of individual exhibits are 
often so close in value that, unless very great 
care is taken, wrong decisions must follow. 

W. S. 

LEADING CHRYSANTHEMUMS AT THE 
CRYSTAL PALACE SHOW. 
Growers throughout the country like to be 
made aware of the flowers that are seen in 
excellent condition at the great autumn festi¬ 
val of the National Chrysanthemum Society, 
now held annually at the Crystal Palace. 
The display, as a whole, compared very 
favourably with many of the shows held in 
the palmiest days of the society at the Royal 
Aquarium, Westminster. The shows of to¬ 
day, however, differ considerably from those 
of a decade since. Formerly, boards on which 
to display the large exhibition blooms were 
almost exclusively used, and only in the last 
few years of the exhibitions at the Royal 
Aquarium were the vase classes at all popu¬ 
lar. Now the whole character of the display 
is changed. All types of the flower are now 
set up in vases, and the effect is far more 
interesting than formerly, and visitors and 
growers, too, can see a decorative value in 
the big blooms, which was not apparent when 
they were dumped down on sloping, -green- 
painted boards. The small-flowered decora¬ 
tive sorts are catered for also, and in this 
connection we see Pompons, single flowered, 
and the smaller-flowered Japanese blooms 
set up in vases, band baskets, bouquets, and 


other equally praiseworthy methods of illus¬ 
trating their value. In each of the classes 
competition was keen, there being seventeen 
exhibitors in the class for a dinner-table de¬ 
coration. In the leading class for Japanese 
blooms set up in vases, three blooms in each 
vase, there were not so many exhibitors as 
we would have liked to see, and the same 
remarks apply to the vase class for incurved 
Chrysanthemums. The quality of the flowers 
was good. Japanese varieties that were re¬ 
presented in good form were numerous. 
Lovely flowers of the soft yellow Bessie God¬ 
frey were abundant. This variety appears to 
be> holding its own with the more recently- 
introduced sorts. Several good blooms of the 
Japanese incurved W. R. Church were con¬ 
spicuous. This rosy-crimson flower with 
bronze reverse has done well this Reason. 
The refined blooms of F. H. Vail is. though 
of immense size, were staged in splendid 
form throughout, the show, a specially good 
set of six blooms arranged in n vase being 
quite a feature. The rich canary-yellow 
colour of this sort and its pleasing drooping 
form appeal to everyone. Lady Mary 
Conyers was frequently in evidence. John 
Peed was another immense Japanese bloom. 
The colour is white, shaded pink. Early 
blooms, however, are not so interesting ns 
are those from a late crown-bud selection. 
Maud Jefferies is good, and it is a pity, it is 
not exhibited oftener. It is a pure white 
flower of Australian origin. Another Japan¬ 
ese from the same source is Lady Talbot, 
very similar to F. S. Vail is in form, but the 
colour is a much paler shade of canary-yel¬ 
low. The warm terra eotta-coloured blooms 
of Mary Inglis were much admired. It is a 
massive-looking flower, and invaluable in 
close competition. Chrvsantheme Montignv. 
when well done, is useful, and there were 
several blooms that well maintained the re¬ 
putation this variety has gained. It is a pale 
yellow sort, with long, broad petals that curl 
at the ends. There were several capital 
blooms of Magnificent, of massive build, 
colour crimson, with bronze reverse. Mrs. 
Norman Davis, pure white, is a capital exhi¬ 
bition variety. The rich orange-yellow 
blooms of Algernon Davis were striking. 
British Empire is a good flower with broad 
petals. Orange yellow, heavily shaded crim¬ 
son-bronze, aptly describes the colour when 
at its best. A new continental Japanese is 
Mine. J. de la Croull, of a very pretty soft 
pink, with paler reverse to the petals, which 
are of narrow to medium width, the flower 
full and deeply built. Other good sorts were 
Mrs. C. Pen ford. C. J. Champion. W. Wat¬ 
son, W. Ring, President Lou bet, and a pretty 
yellow Japanese incurved named Harold 
Swales. 

Incurved varieties were wonderfully well 
shown. Enihleme Poitevene is a large canary- 
yellow sort of good quality. Mrs. Barnard 
Hankey is n bronzy-mahogany flower of deep 
build and good form. Buttercup, the rich 
yellow, broad-pctalled bloom that has made 
such a name for itself, was well shown. 
Clara Wells, the new buff-yellow incurved, 
was also well represented. Romance, the new- 
rich yellow sort, was seen in several exhibits, 
as was also Godfrey’s Eclipse, a beautiful 
canary-yellow sort. Other good incurved 
sorts were : Mrs. J. Reward, Mrs. G. Denver, 
W. Pascoe, Amber Beauty. Hanwell Glory, 
Frank Trestian, Topaze Orientale, Lady 
Isabel, and J. Agate. E. G. 

Carden Chrysanthemums.— The bright 
sunshine during September was the means of 
ushering into bloom many early flowering 
Chrysanthemums, whose bright flowers trans 
formed many a town garden. I do not re¬ 
member a season when these, w hich are com¬ 
monly termed “garden-grown Chrysanthe¬ 
mums,” were more in evidence, and not a 
few of my acquaintances who cannot boast of 
glass, beyond a few- framelights, have been 
highly encouraged by their first attempts at 
growing the early-flowering sorts. It is well 
known that few things succeed better in a 
town than do these autumn-blooming sub- 
jects, and when once a stock lias been got 
together they are very easily propagated. 
Rome varieties pay for winter protection. 
This may be given in the way of covering 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


XoYKSIDEli 30, 1907 


GARDENING IL L U ST RATE D. 


523 


tlie stools with frame-lights, or, if tlio plants 
are on a sheltered border, a covering of 
leaves or litter will generally suffice in the 
severest winter. Indeed, so popular have 
the outdoor-blooming sorts become that I 
know several people who are reducing the 
number they grow’ in pots for November 
blooming in the house, stating that the quan¬ 
tity of flowers they can have for cutting, with 
next to no trouble, in September and Octo 
her, pays them well for the room they occupy 
in the borders.- Leahurst. 


A FEW EARLY PROMISING CHRYS¬ 
ANTHEMUMS. 

Cakmamtb. Deep-yellow flowers of medium 
size. Good stiff stem, and free flowering. 
Height of plant, 2 feet. 

Tapis de Neige. —Pure-white flowers, 


early and free. Height of plant, barely 
2 feet. 

Wells’ Scarlet.—R ich briek*red blooms, 
of medium size, very freely borne on stout, 
upright growth. Hardy and good. Height, 
1 £ feet. 

Hector. —Light-pink, rather large, slightly 
incurving blooms, good stem, but habit some¬ 
what tall. 

Maxlm. Bronzy red and yellow, very free, 
enrly, and good. Height, 2 feet. H. 

CHRYSANTHEMUM MRS. W. KNOX. 
This is a variety of somewhat recent intro¬ 
duction, and is a grand flower, from an exhi¬ 
bition point of view. The colour is yellow, 
not a bright or striking shade, perhaps, but 
it is the charming form of the flower when 
grown for exhibition that makes it so much 
esteemed. It is recurving in c shape, so much 








% 


Chrysanthemum Mrs. W. Knox. 


borne early and in profusion. Plant. 2 feet 
high. 

James Bateman. —White, with pink suffu 
«ion ; flat, medium-sized, well-shaped bloom. 
Good habit and free. Height, 2i feet. 

Le Cyone.-P ure white; blooms of nice 
quality, good stem ; free blooming and a good 
grower. Height. 2.J feet. 

J. J. Hart. Bronzy yellow flowers of 
medium size; blooms freely, *and habit of 
plant excellent. Height. 2 feet. 

Perle Rose. -Not new, but first-rate, j 
Mauve-coloured flowers, borne freely on capi¬ 
tal. stiff stems. Height, 2 feet. 

Mrs. A. Thomson.- Colour, rich yellow ; i 
blooms medium-sized, freely produced ; early 
and good. Height of plant, 2.J feet. 

Mignon. —Light rose flowers of reflexing 
shape, good quality, and freely produced. 
Height, 2 feet. 

Tonkin. —Deep hron^v yellow 
large flowers of <spleruffi< ll*^ itv 

Digitized by VjO ‘ 


i so that the florets arch over and back to the 
I stem, forming almost a ball. The florets, 
too. are of a highly refined, smooth type. 
It is large, and thus valuable for vases, and 
one of the easiest to cultivate. Amateurs 
should, therefore, make a note of this sort. 
The growth is dwarf and sturdy, but it can- 
I not be recommended for cutting, its stein, 

I when not freely disbudded, being none too 
stout. It was raised in Australia, and dis¬ 
tributed here by Messrs. Wells and Co. 

NOTES AND REPLIES . 

Chrysanthemums after blooming.— It is 

always an advantage to have a cool-house at 
liberty to which Chrysanthemums may be 
transferred immediately after flowering, as, 
with few exceptions, the sooner they are re¬ 
lieved of the old stems, and the soil fresh¬ 
ened a little in the pots, to induce new 
growth, the better. I have never seen the 



utility of leaving plants weeks after they have 
flowered before an attempt has been made 
to take away the stakes, and cut away the 
dead and decaying stems, yet it is a fact that 
some are in no great hurry to alter this state 
of things, resulting, I fear, in not a few in¬ 
stances, of weak, puny cuttings. Where 
facilities do not obtain for removing plants to 
a cold-house, a good substitute will be found 
for pots containing old 6tools in a frame 
under n wall having a south aspect, as, thus 
sheltered, they will often go for weeks with 
little harm. Some varieties do not push up 
suckers very quickly, and these can be 
treated specially by being kept in heat for a 
time.— Townsman.' 

Chrysanthemum Nina Blick. -This well- 
known earlv-flowcring Chrysanthemum lias 
done exceedingly well this season, and at the 
time of writing (October 15th) the plants are 
making a glorious display with their wealth 
of rich crimson-bronze blossoms. This 
variety is now classed by the National Chrys¬ 
anthemum Society as belonging to the deco¬ 
rative Chrysanthemums. This is quite a 
new section, and embraces flowers of compact 
form, similar in many respects to the hybrid 
Pompons, but much larger than that type of 
the flower. This plant has a splendid con¬ 
stitution, bearing a profuse display of highly- 
coloured flowers on a sturdy habit of growth. 
It is a most accommodating plant, taking 
kindly to either disbudding or to the more 
natural form of growth. When disbudded, 
the flowers are of a beautiful circular form, 
with stiff, erect florets. In a disbudded form 
they are developed in charming sprays. \ 
have a batch of plants, the result of the old 
stools having been divided in the late spring, 
and they are a wonderful sight at the present 
time. I have other batches, the result of 
cuttings propagated in the early spring, and 
they are equally interesting. All who appre¬ 
ciate the outdoor border sorts should grow 
the variety under notice.—E. G. 


Single-flowered Chrysanthemums.— Per¬ 
haps one of the best points about single- 
flowered Chrysanthemums is in their value 
for decoration when cut, and it is probably 
on account of this that their popularity is 
increasing. This is particularly noteworthy 
during the present season. Chrysanthemum 
societies at one time gave this class little 
encouragement, but now offer prize# for 
boxes of singles, as well as for bouquets and 
baskets. There is something about a single 
variety that appeal# to all who take a special 
interest in table decoration. Some possess 
soft colours, and the blooms of medium size 


are more capable of being brought into use 
than huge blossoms of Japanese anil in¬ 
curved. More than this, those who grow 
plant# for home decoration are beginning to 
find that there is not the same amount of 
trouble required to produce flowering speci¬ 
mens of singles. Scarcely anyone expects 
plant# to be sacrificed for the production of 
four or five bloom#, as in the case of other 
sort#, and it is rather on account of the 
number of dainty blossoms on a plant that 
the singles are most appreciated.— TOWNS¬ 
MAN. 

Chrysanthemum Romance.— One of the 

best of the new incurved Chrysanthemums, 
undoubtedly, is Romance. It is finely pro¬ 
portioned. neat in petal, a rich deep yellow 
in colour, and, what is of even greater 
value, it has a good constitution. The award 
of merit bestowed on this kind recently was. 
I consider, well deserved, for among now 
and older kinds, I cannot recall one that is 
superior, all point# considered. With 
me its habit of growth is dwarf, anil 
on this account it may be taken in 
hand by the amateur. It, however, docs 
not belong to the present-day fashionable 
Japanese section. New' incurved kinds in¬ 
crease slowly compared with the Japanese 
and other varieties, which is readily under¬ 
stood, because the percentage of patronage 
is so much less. I may be considered old- 
fashioned if an opinion favouring those much 
refined and really superior blooms i# given, 
but to me there is in a well-grown incurved 
bloom quite as much beauty as in the very 
best Japanese introduction of the day. and 
it certainly is. a matter for regret that popu¬ 
lar opinion lias set Its face so resolutely 
again#! +be incurved ^^ioji^JjTjLTjpy- 


CHAMPAIGN 




524 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


November .10, 1907 


ROSES. 

REPLANTING OLD ROSE PLANTS. 
“Leave well alone” is, perhaps, a safe 
maxim when dealing with Roses; but I 
fancy, in many cases, some fairly old plants 
would be greatly improved if they were care¬ 
fully transplanted. Of course, the proper 
way would be to bring them up, as it were, 
to a system of periodical transplanting, then 
it would be Jess risky to take the work in 
hand. No doubt, many have observed cer¬ 
tain plants gradually show signs of decay, at 
first almost imperceptible. Now, if Roses, 
when they approach this state, could be re¬ 
moved to a new position, it may be but a yard 
away, they would soon show signs of re¬ 
covery. It is becoming the practice in many 
large establishments to transplant a portion 
of the Roses each season, and this practice 
is to be commended, for, however carefully 
the work be done, there is, for a time, a cer¬ 
tain amount of retarding. As soon, how¬ 
ever, as the new roots work into the new soil, 
then a rapid sign of returning vigour is soon 
apparent. Although this season the foliage 
is a long time in falling, the present would 
be a good time to commence any transplant¬ 
ing determined upon. 1 remember seeing 
recently some very large pillar Roses that 
had been removed from one part of the gar¬ 
den to the other, and I was surprised at 
the vigour of the new growth in the short 
time that had intervened. 1 would not ad¬ 
vise a vigorous cutting back of the growth, 
as some do. Remove, by all means, the 
foliage before transplanting, then wait and 
see what wood shows signs of dying back, 
and prune accordingly. I am often asked if 
a plant two or three years old can be trans¬ 
planted, and I certainly say “Yes,” even if 
it be five or six years old. Sometimes an old 
standard Rose upon a lawn would be all the 
better for an examination of its roots. It is 
not necessary to take away all the soil, but 
as carefully as possible remove the soil 
around, so that a good ball is left to the 
roots. If the tree be now artificially sus¬ 
pended whilst the soil is removed from be¬ 
neath, the crude subsoil could be replaced 
with some good material, and then the whole 
filled up with new compost. Such a tree 
would soon show how such an operation had 
been beneficial to it. I do not mean to infer 
that old, worn out plants will repay anyone 
for the trouble, unless there happens to be 
fiome reason why their retention is desired ; 
but before they get into a really decrepit 
state, a renewal of soil, with some manure 
added, would be beneficial. Roha. 


HYBRIDISING. 

In connection with your article on Rose-seed, in 
Gardening Illustrated, for October 26th, p. 458, 
could you inform me if there is any short and very 
elementary hook giving practical directions on the 
hybridising of Roses? It would be of gre-at interest 
to many amateur gardeners, like myself, if we could 
artificially cross some of the Rosea in our own gardens 
and then raise the seeds, but the difficulty is to 
know exactly how to go to work, what tools are 
necessary, whether the Roses must be grown under 
glass, and so on. Perhaps, if there is no simple book 
on the subject, you might be able to explain the 
process clearly in an article, or series of articles, in 
your paper? The instructions would have to be very 
clear and elementary, or, I fear, they would be of no 
use to those who are, at present, ignorant of the 
subject.—S. Cornisii Watkins. 

[In our climate it is necessary to cross the 
flowers under glass. A lean-to house facing 
south should be provided for the plants. 
No matter how small the house, it must be 
kept, exclusively for the Roses. Hot-water 
pipes are also essential, as it is necessary, 
when plants are in flower, that a high and 
dry atmosphere be maintained. We will 
suppose such a house is available now. 
Plants in pots, established at. least one year, 
should be procured. If any kinds are not 
available, then pot them up and grow out¬ 
doors for a season. They would be at com¬ 
mand next year. Put the established plants 
into the house at once, and dry ofF by with¬ 
holding water for about four weeks. The 
drainage of the pots should bo looked to. and 
it. should be the aim of the grower not. to en¬ 
courage a rank growth. Manure in every 
form should be withheld. Prune the plants 
at the end of January. Syringe well every 
fine day; in fact, every morning, save when 
frost appears. Gjf^e^dentv of air at first. 

Digitized by (j 6 i 


and merely sufficient artificial heat to keep 
out frost. When flower-buds are seen, less 
air should be given. As the flowers are 
about to open, a temperature of about 
65 degs. should be maintained, and as dry as 
possible; in fact, this must be so right on¬ 
wards until seed-pods are well formed. The 
sun may run the glass up to 85 degs., but this 
will do no harm. The blossoms intended to 
be crossed should have the stamens removed 
before their pollen is shed, and pollen from 
the kind selected to cross it with must be 
dusted at once on the stigmas before inserts 
have an opportunity of defeating our object. 
The petals may be quite removed from the 
flower, and it. is not necessary to wait until 
buds have opened. As soon as the colour is 
seen, we cut the petals away, but extreme 
care is necessary to see that the fructifying 
parts are not injured. Of course, the roots 
of the plant must not suffer from want of 
water, but as little as possible should be 
given just at this time. The dryness of the 
atmosphere will encourage red-spider, and 
this cannot well be avoided, but frequent 
fumigating will keep this pest, and green-fly 
in cheek, and it will cause no injury to the 
crossed flowers. The plants must remain in 
the house until the end of the year. About 
October the seed-pods will commence to 
change colour, and in November the seed 
should be sown in pots and placed under 
glass. 

There is a little book dealing with the 
hybridising of Roses published by the 
National Rose Society. If you write to the 
lion, secretary of the above society, Edward 
Mawley, Berkhamsted, Herts, he will, no 
doubt, be able to supply it. You would also 
find the report of the Hybrid Conference 
useful. This is publisheil by the Royal Hor¬ 
ticultural Society, Horticultural Hall, Vin- 
cent-square, Westminster. The price is, we 
think, 7s. (id.] 

LATE-FLOWERING CLIMBING AND 
PILLAR ROSES. 

The somewhat exceptional late flowering of 
Dorothy Perkins this year iN, no doubt, due 
to the season, but it has been quite a delight 
to be able to cut sprays of this lovely Rose 
even up to the middle of October. In fact, 
from trees transplanted in April, blossoms 
could be gathered in the last, week in Oeto¬ 
ber. This late flowering habit places this 
Rose far above Lady Gay for usefulness, be¬ 
cause, although one may obtain a strong truss 
or two, there is nothing like the profusion 
of the old favourite. Seeing this in flower 
naturally leads one to inquire for others of 
like habit. Of these the number is very 
limited as far as true Ramblers are con¬ 
cerned. Probably the best is Trier, whose 
buff-tinted flowers are freely produced. 
Alberic Barbier has this year given some 
grand late blossoms. It has blossoms of the 
loveliest creamy-white, and glorious shining 
foliage. This Rose should be in every gar¬ 
den. Debutante is very pretty, with its 
mauve-coloured trusses, and Perle des Neiges 
is very pure in colour and free flowering, suc¬ 
ceeding well on standards. Francois Fou- 
card. Rene Andre, Paul Transon, and Ed¬ 
mond Proust have given a sort of spasmodic 
flowering, but I cannot say they are good 
autumnals. Perpetual Thalia has proved 
very free, and should be used more than it is 
for hedges, or low pillars, or terrace walls. 
The new variety, Snowstorm, should be use¬ 
ful for late work. 

The Musk Roses are very old. but they are 
useful, and should not be lost sight of. Prin- 
cesse de Nassau, Rivers’, and Elise Werry 
are excellent, and make really beautiful 
pillars or arches. Among the Hybrid Teas 
we have several that are very valuable for 
late flowering. Such sorts as Bardou Job, 
Ards Pillar, Gustave Regis, Noella Nabon- 
nand, Reine Marie Henriette, Lady Water- 
low, Pink Roamer. Lina Schmidt Michel, 
Climbing K. A. Victoria, Gruss an Teplitz, 
Billiard et. Barre. Francois Crousse, Mme. 
Hector Leuilliot, Mme. Wagram, Climbing 
Mrs. W. J. Grant, Cheshunt Hybrid, 
Johanna Sohus, Gaston Chandon, Progress, 
Moils. Desir, and Waltham Climber No. 3 
are fine, and could profitably be employed as 
pillar Roses, planted in conjunction with 


summer-flowering sorts, or grown by them¬ 
selves against pillars. 

Among the Teas and Noisettes we have 
many choice sorts, foremost being Mine. 
Alfred Carrier© and Longworth Rambler, 
two beautiful sorts that blend well together. 
Then we have the ever-popular Aimee Vibert, 
the fine cluster Rase Alister Stella Gray, 
Crepuscule, Virginie Demon t Breton, Celine 
Forestier, Bouquet d’Or, Wm. Allen 
Richardson, Dr. Rouges, and many others. 
I saw a fine example of W. A. Richardson 
recently wreathing a portico facing south 
with its richly-coloured blossoms. This Rose 
seems to prefer a good, stiff, clayey soil, if 
well drained, and to be grown a short dis¬ 
tance from the wall. Belle Vischysoise 
makes a beautiful free-flowering autumnal 
Rose of vigorous growth. It evidently be¬ 
longs to the Hybrid Musk Roses, ami lias 
pretty pale pink flowers. These Musk Roses 
seem to be amenable to hybridising, and they 
should be more employed by our raisers in 
order to gain variety in autumnal-blooming 
Roses. Paul’s Single White makes a capital 
arch Rose, the clusters of large white flowers 
blending well with those of Gruss an Teplitz 
or Gloire des Rosomanes. Gottfreid Kcdler 
and Soleil d’Or should not be overlooked 
when planting for autumn effect on pillar*, 
neither can we dispense with the common 
China, Fellenberg, or Climbing Cramoisie- 
Supericur, although this last requires shel¬ 
ter. Armosa, too, and also Laurette Messimy, 
as well as others of the Monthly Roses, make 
pretty half-climbers, and are as ever-bloom¬ 
ing as it is possible to obtain at present. 
Climbing La Vesuve is a Rose worth growing. 
Its parti-coloured flowers are very freely pro¬ 
duced. For good, hardy, robust growth in 
very exposed gardens. Iiugosa Roses should 
bo employed for pillar work. Blanc double 
de Courbet and its improved form. Souvenir 
de Philemon Cochet, together witli Conrad 
F. Meyer, should certainlv be planted in 
such a position, and even in any garden they 
are worthy of a place. Rosa. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Roses on pillars. -I have planted the following 
Roses against 12-feet high posts, with a view to 
training them in festoons on chains from post to 
post. Can you tell mo how tall each Rose will grow 
with ordinary good treatment? Thu following are 
the varieties: C’limbing Caroline Testout, Climbing 
Captain Christy, Hiawatha, Ards Pillar, Dorothy Pit- 
kins. 8ouv. I)e Leonie Viennot, also Clematis Marcel 
Moser, Ville du Lyon, and Anderson Henryi. Please 
tell me how high Rose siniea Anemone and Rose 
1'Ideal will grow on a south wall? .1. H. Mandf.r. 

[The varieties Dorothy Perkins, Hiawatha, 
Climbing C. Testout, would soon reach the 
top of your 12-feet poles with good ordinary 
cultivation, and such sorts could be linked 
together as you propose, provided the posts 
are not too far apart. These varieties are 
fast growers, and would attain a height of 
about 15 feet to 20 feet. The other varieties. 
Climbing Capt. Christy, Ards Pillar, Sou¬ 
venir de L. Viennot, are more suited to pil¬ 
lars of a less height—say, from 8 feet to 
10 feet. They are not suitable kinds for 
linking together as you propose. The old 
Ayrshire and Evergreen Roses are excellent 
for this purpose, sorts such as Felieite-Per- 
petuee, Flora, Virginian Rambler, etc., being 
admirable. The Clematises named would 
require 6-feet to 8-fect pests or pillars. They 
are charming when planted against an old 
tree, where they may run wild over its 
branches. Rosa siniea Anemone would grow 
to a great height in a warm climate, but. in 
our country some 10 feet to 12 feet would be 
about the space to allow for it, and also for 
L’Ideal, especially on a south wall.] 

Rose Reine Marie Henriette.— This old climb¬ 
ing Rose, known also as the Red flloire de Dijon, is. 
despite its tendency to mildew, still worthy of cul¬ 
ture. Its colour, somewhat of a cherry-red, is not 
common amongst, climbers, and it flowers freely. 
Perhaps it is not generally known that if this variety 
is planted in a south aspect, it is not liable to he 
attacked quite so much with mildew. Some years 
ago 1 was talking to a man who had one over his 
house-front—facing south—and he told me that it was 
only in the autumn when he was troubled with the 
scourge. Those who are «till planting should give 
this a trial.—L eahurst. 


“The English Flower Garden and Home 
Grounds."- Vcne Edition, 10th, recited, irith descrip¬ 
tions of all the best plants, trees, and shrubs, their 
culture and arrancjrnu'nt, illustrated on U'ood. Cloth, 
inediUiS Sm t u TJ7; poet free, 15 s. OtJ. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




Noyemdeh 30, 100? 


GA R dejYwg 111 vstRa T li I). 


DlM 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 

A MIXED BORDER AT ST. ANN’S. 
This garden, so famous for its good collec¬ 
tions of plants and shrubs, and for its beauty, 
ie also distinguished by very good mixed bor¬ 
ders, of which we give an example in a pic¬ 
ture which explains itself. The plants arc 
of the best and choicest quality, and the cul¬ 
ture as good as it can be. At the end there 
is an Ivy-clad tower, which forms a very good 
foil to the view. 


BEAR’S BREECH (ACANTHUS). 
Though fine-leaved plants are common 
enough in summer, many of them are Boon 
shabby, and the list of perennials holding 
fine foliage throughout the summer and 
autumn is not a long one. For this reason 


Even in parts of Devon, Cornwall, and 
other southern counties, the hardier kinds 
are quite at home, forming tufts of many 
feH across, with spikes 5 feet high, thickly | 
set with flowers. One such spot I call to 
mind, where the Broad-leaved Acanthus dis- I 
putes place with clumps of Plantain Lily of ' 
the noblest vigour, with here and there a 
giant Rhubarb or Gunnera beside the water, | 
and colonies of the tall Japan Anemones in | 
rose and white, all crowding one another 
in friendly rivalry. Grown with such plants, 
ani amid half-wild surroundings, the beauty 
of the Acanthus is better seen than in tin 
mixed border, though here ami there in the 
angle of a lawn it may he used to advan¬ 
tage, or planted as a bold relief to the bare 
outlines of the masonry common upon ter¬ 
races and house-fronts. Strong tufts may | 
even be used like the Plantain Lily to grace , 
the pillar-vases often seen in the formal gar- 


ing from 1*2 inches to 18 inches high. The 
flowers are white, suffused with rose, and 
borne on dense spikes. Greece. 

A. candelabrum. —A plant of uncertain 
origin, very handsome in bold masses, and 
doing well in a moist spot, even when in par¬ 
tial shade, or grouped at the foot of lime¬ 
stone boulders in the rock-garden. It is a 
strong grower, with leaves of intense green, 
flowering in autumn. 

A. hispanicus. —An old kind, which has 
almost died out of northern gardens, of 
medium grow T th (2 feet), with broad, deeply- 
cut leaves of glossy green and spikes of white 
flowers. 

A. longifolius —A bold, distinct plant, 
and one of the hardiest. Its leaves are long 
and narrow, gracefully arching, and bright 
green ; the flowers, purplish-rcse, surrounded 
by reddish bracts, are borne in early summer 
upon short spikes 2 feet high. Dalmatia. 



Mixed borders of hardy plants in the gardens at St. Ann's, Clontarf, Dublin. From a photograph by G. A. Champion. 


alone the Acanthus deserves a place in all 
British gardens. The species of Acanthus 
a?*e plants of southern Europe, but through¬ 
out the south and west of Britain and Ire¬ 
land they are rarely injured by frost, and 
even when the leaves are damaged in sharp 
winters, the roots escape. If well planted 
and nursed a little at the outset (growth for 
the first few seasons being slow), when well 
established they need little further attention, 
gaining in strength and beauty every year. 
Given ^ood soil, they may be finely grouped in 
half-wild spots and allowed to spread at will, 
the bold, deeply-cut leaves being fine in effect 
at all seasons, and the long spikes of white 
and rose or purplp flow'ers coming as an added 
charm upon old plants. In the Mediterranean 
region the Acuntlms fills many a shady dell, 
spreading into dense, luxuriant masses, and 
becoming a weed in many gardens from the 
seedlings which spring up in all directions. 
There are few finer effects than those of the 
great leaves and 


e 1 Wjo w e 


den, and, provided there is no lack of soil 
or water, few plants are more effective. 

Culture. —To flower w r ell in this country, 
the Acanthus needs to be in light, w r efl- 
drained soil, and in an open, sunny spot, w r ith 
some shelter if possible, and to be planted in 
spring, in order to get some hold before 
winter. In many gardens of heavier soil— 
such as strong limestone marls—the Acanthus 
grows well, but is less free in flower, and 
needs good drainage, with some protection, 
at least, until well established. Strong roots 
may be divided in spring, or young plants 
may be raised from root-cuttings, or from 
seed raised in gentle heat. 

Varieties.— There are many species of 
Acanthus with only slight differences in 
point of effect, consisting mainly in modifica¬ 
tions of leaf or flower. The hardy kinds 
commonly found in gardens arc: — 

A. C'aroli Alexandra— One of the latest 
hardy kinds, a small grower, with only a few 
narrow leaves in a loose cluster, and starnl- 


A. MOLLIS. —The common Italian species, 
of froe, handsome growth, with dull green 
leaves cut into broad, waved lobes, and loose 
spikes of rosy-white flowers. 

A. MOLLIS LATIFOLIU8 (SYN. A. LTJ8I- 
TAMCU8). —A variety of A. mollis, but larger, 
handsomer, and hardier, with very large 
dark green leaves, finely cut and glossy, often 
remaining good all the winter. It bears stout 
flower-spikes, each 4 feet to 5 feet high, dur¬ 
ing July and August, with white and rosy 
flowers, set thickly and seeding freely. A 
beautiful form of this kind is seen in some 
gardens of southern Europe, with a very dis 
tinct. erect habit, and shining leaves of fine 
appearance, making it the best for single 
tufts. 

A. NIGER. —An uncommon species from 
I Portugal, with shining dark green leaves and 
| purplish-white flowers towards the end of 
summer. 

A. 8PINOSIS8IMU8. —A handsome, very dis- 
! tin. ! kind, the leaves deeply -nit, ami spiny; 










526 


GARDEMXG 1 ILLUSTRATED. 


KoVKiimiu 30, 1907 


the spines glistening, and acutely recurved. 
The spikes, loosely set with rosy flowers, ap¬ 
pear in the autumn, but the plant rarely 
blooms in Britain. South Europe. 

A. sriN 08 U 8 .—A handsome plant, of fine 
habit, with much-cut leaves, the divisions of 
which end in short white spines. The 
foliage remains fresh 'all winter in mild 
seasons. The spikes appear in August, reach¬ 
ing a height of 5 feet or fi feet, with small, 
thickly-set purple flowers. The leaves and 
Menu are slightly hairy. 

THE SPRING STAR-FLOWER 
(Tritelkia uniflora). 
Throughout southern England, in sunny 
gardens of light soil, few early-flowering 
plants give a better effect than this little south 
American bulb, while its price enables it to 
be used in quantity and with the best results. 
It is hardy on all soils, but in cold, stiff 
ground it is apt to disappear. In more 
genial conditions it spreads fast into broad ' 
patches, and when used either as large, irre¬ 
gular masses in open spots beneath trees, or 
(as I have seen it) planted in a long straight 
border of 200 paces and thick with flowers, 
its*value is great. In spite of its name, its 
flowers come very freely, and. under cultiva¬ 
tion, not infrequently in pairs. They vary 
a good deal in shade from nearly white to 
lilac and purple, and. in a scarcer form, to 
a pretty pale blue, with narrow petals and a 
yellow eye. The heist way is to plant in 
variety, and let the colours mingle at will. 
In eliajK? the flower i<; a little like the Lesser 
Periwinkle, and about the same size, blit 
with separate petals. It loves the sun. and 
is not in the least distressed by weeks of 
drought, unfolding its blossoms with the first 
warm davs of March or April, in a profusion 
over which the bees make merry. Unless 
planted to come up through evergreen trailers 
—and it i.s often useful with other bulbs to 
give colour upon such a groundwork when it 
is itself out of beautv—the plants should be 
massed closely, or the blossoms will suffer 
from heavy rain. A very good effect may be 
got by planting the buibs thicklv, mingled 
with clumps of the Scarlet Windflower (Ane¬ 
mone fulgens); they both delight in 6unshine 
when welrplanted, and the contrast in colour 
is rich and uncommon. It is pretty also with 
the Lesser Periwinkle in its white and blue 
forms, but. is less apt to spread with such a 
vigorous neighbour. In the south of France 
it is now naturalised in many parts, and takes 
the place of the Snowdrop, which is apt to 
disappear. In warm districts, in which the 
Star-flower may he coaxed out too early for 
its own well-being, it is best grown upon a 
warm border at the foot of a wall giving 
some shelter from wind and weather. Though 
charming upon the plant, the flowers are of 
no value when cut. owing to the strong odour 
of garlic given off by the cut stems. Fo 1 
use indoors the Triteleia is often grown in 
pots, blooming early with little heat, lasting 
long, and of the simplest culture. It is easy 
to have it in little pots for table decoration, 
and, unless the leaves are bruised, there is 
no unpleasant smell. 


WALL COVERINGS FOR WINTER AND 
EARLY SPRING. 

Notwithstanding the fact that climbing 
plants arc employed more to-day than ever 
they were for walls and fences, and for grow¬ 
ing over house-fronts, in the majority of in¬ 
stances preference is given to those that are 
at their best from .June to October, and 
scarcely any provision is made for subjects 
that add their quota of beauty the remaining 
part of the year. This, to my mind, is 1o 
l>e regretted, as it is in the dreary season of 
the year, when even plants that are judged 
to be sombre are better than bare walls. 
There is. for example, the Ivy. This may 
not appeal to us in July, when Roses, Clema¬ 
tises, and Passifloras make gay our gardens, 
but when the frosts of November have borne 
away the last leaves of the Virginian Creeper, 
and left us only their thread-like stems, it is 
then when the Ivy, mid snow and sleet, under 
cold and uninviting conditions, proclaims its 
value as a winter covering. Those who have 
lx*en accustomed to regard the Ivy as a plant 
only good enough for-4iiding somc|uiisightlv 

' Digitized by (jOOglC 


object in the garden, and very often for this 
reason only plant the common green sort, 
whose leaves long remain uncut, the harbour 
for dust and dirt that accumulate in a year, [ 
are reminded that there are other sorts noted 
for the beauty of foliage. There is, for 
example, such sorts as angularis aurea, 
blotched with yellow; gracilis, light green, 
and bronzed in autumn; palmata aurea, 
bright yellow ; Donerailensis, small, pur 
plish brown. There are the various silver- 
leaved varieties that, give to a wall a fresh 
and clean appearance. One of the earliest 
wall coverings in my garden to bloom is For- j 
sythia suspensn, a shrub that does remark¬ 
ably well trained on a south wall, in which 
position one may with certainty look for j 
some of its pale yellow blossoms in January 
—often, indeed, before the flowers of that 
other well-known plant, Jasniinum nudi- 
florum, appear. On a warm, sheltered wall, 
too, the red blossoms of the old Pvrus ja- 
ponica follow closely on, and before the calen¬ 
dar denotes the first spring day, in and about 
the walls and eaves of many a sheltered cot¬ 
tage, the showy blooms appear. Nor should 
we forget for climbing over low walls the 
value of some berried plants, like Cratae¬ 
gus Lielandi with scarlet berries; C. crenu- 
lata, yelLow-berried; and that equally use¬ 
ful plant, Cotoneaster microphylla, which 
yields its white blossoms in spring and richly- 
coloured berries in autumn. 

We too frequently plant for a summer dis¬ 
play, and forget that, there are months pre¬ 
ceding in which walls may be relieved of dul 
ness by growing on them some of the subjects 
mentioned. Woodbastwick. 


GARDEN CLIMBERS. 

With the fall of the leaf come many bare 
walls, fences, trellis_*s, and other objects, 
not pleasing to the eve. Perhaps it is well 
it should be so, as in the winter we realise all 
the more fully the great service these plants 
have rendered the garden during the spring, 
summer, and well into the autumn. Where 
there is impatience that any spaces thus un- 
pleasing in appearance are left bare during 
the winter, Ivies, which are so luxuriant in 
evergreen leafage, can be planted, and thus 
give permanent covering. But, pleasant as 
it may he to have any otherwise offensive 
objects thus hidden, even the warmest ad 
mirer of greenery may in time tire of the 
monotony of Ivv, just the same as he would 
tire of the sameness of a hedge of Laurel or 
Yew, neither having over many years any 
variation. But with deciduous climbers— 
and they are legion—there comes in spring 
the welcome change from bareness to tender 
green, and variedly-formed foliage. A little 
later come flowers. With some, later, come 
berries or seed-vessels; with all. exceeding 
beauty. Hence, tlie variety seen during the 
summer far more than atones for the liarc 
ness in winter. Climbers now include great 
diversity. In Roses alone we have myriads 
of many characters. In Clematises, honey 
suckles* Jasmines. Wistarias, Passifloras, 
Solanums, Everlasting Peas, and so many 
others, we have wide range of true perennial¬ 
flowering forms; and in the wide family of 
Vitis (inclining the new varieties) anil Aris- 
toloeliias we have singularly beautiful fine- 
folinged climbers, long in leaf, yet deciduous. 
Even among annuals there are many very 
beautiful climbers, easily raised from seed, 
and, if common, at. least none the less at¬ 
tractive, and, because cheap and easily 
raised, can be grown by the poorest. 
Climbers, indeed, enter now more largely than 
ever into garden effects. Apart from real 
climbers, there are ninny shrubs which, 
trained to supports or walls, give flue cover¬ 
ing effects. Such things as Crataegus Pyra 
cantha, Cotoneaster microphylla, Rubus 
phoenicolasins, R. Bainbusarum, Berberis 
Thunbergi, etc., arc charming when coated 
with berries. Of suitable flowering plants, 
Magnolias, evergreen and deciduous, Escal- 
lonias, Forsyth inn. Camellias. Viburnums, 
Kerrias, Fromontia californieas, Buddleia 
globosa. and many other similar shrubs make 
splendid wall coverings. To the introduc¬ 
tion of the pergola is greatly due the aroused 
intercut in climbers. Many things hitherto 
unknown, or but slightly so, have been very 


popular for covering the*** structures, and 
myriads of these things are now seen in gar¬ 
dens hitherto barren of notable climbers. To 
cover a pergola well, and in such variety as 
shall produce good effect, varied and pro¬ 
longed, is evidence of knowledge of the fitness 
j of many climbers of which our fathers knew 
nothing. I may here, I trust, quote a brief 
communication on this subject of clothing 
pergolas. written me kindly by Mr. C. R. 
Fielder, of North Mvinms Park gardens, in 
reply to two or three questions I recently put 
to him : 

“ Replying to your last <jnest ion first, I should, 
nnd do, certainly make use of both flowering climbers 
and those which arc chiefly desirable on account of 
their foliage, pr, otherwise, one would have to ex¬ 
clude the Vitte family, which has always been largely 
drawn upon to furnish those structures in Italy — 
the home of the pergola. That reminds me that the 
chief critcism people who have travelled paas upon 
our home pergola is that they are too English in 
character (whatever they may mean by the compari¬ 
son). But that character is, perhaps, unavoidable, 
and, therefore, it is only necessary to plant such 
highly ornamental Vines as Vitis purpurea, V. Thun 
bergi, which is considered by many to be brighter 
in its autumn foliage than is V. CoigneUio*. and sonic 
of the best of the newly introduced species, such as 
V. armata, V. Ilenryi, and others. Other suitable 
flne-foliaged climbers are Ampclopsis Knglemanni, A. 
Vcitchi (the old Virginian Creeper), and Aristolochia 
Sipho. These, free-growing subjects give an appear¬ 
ance of healthy luxuriance to the pergola, and pro¬ 
vide a wealth of colour at a time when the majority 
of the flowering climbers are out of bloom, and, at 
the same time serve to accentuate the beauty of the 
autumn-flowering Clematises Flammula and panieu- 
lata. Among flowering climbers, in addition to those 
first named, should also be included Clematis mon- 
tana, and C. Jaekmani, and others of its class, espe¬ 
cially the newly-introduced variety Nelly Moser. 
Another plant to have is Lonicera Halleana, which is 
very sweet and blooms throughout the summer. It 
is not subject to mildew or attacks of aphis. Poly¬ 
gonum baldshuanicum. a strong grower, and needing 
some training lest it become too dense, is very beauti¬ 
ful in bloom, but it needB ample root-run. Both 
white and blue Wistarias should be planted, the 
white Jasmine, and J. Wallichianum, having yellow 
flowers. Necessarily, there are many other climbers 
which may be freely used. Should any of these in 
time become bare in stem, it is easy to sow annual 
creepers, such as the scarlet and yellow Tropieolums, 
Ecoremocarpus aeaber, Coba?a soandens, and others, 
to give summer effects.” 

Probably many persons, as has been done 
at Wisley Gardens, may prefer to plant a 
pergola .solely with climbing Roses, and of 
these there is legion. Howsoever used, gar¬ 
den climbers are now a most varied and 
beautiful family, and rank amongst the most 
effective of decorative plants. A. D. 


Asters tall, branching kinds. Few 

annual flowers are more popular than Asters, 
and rightly so, seeing how, at a small cost, 
they brighten up the garden during the late 
summer nnd autumn. For many years 1 
looked on these a-s short-lived—an opinion 
shared by many. The branching sorts, especi¬ 
ally those growing tall, bloom over a long 
time. Last year 1 found them go on for two 
months. This year I have seen them in many 
places doing well. 1 saw a grand lot in a 
nursery in Somerset the third week in Sep¬ 
tember. The plants were so grown that lights 
could he placed over them to protect them 
and keep the blossoms clean. These, about 
30 inches high, and branching front the 
ground, looked as if they would continue for 
many weeks. Another lot I saw at the close 
of September in fine condition in the open, 
and, being in good soil, they continued bloom¬ 
ing till tin* fourth week in Octolter. When 
these Asters are showing bloom is the time 
to begin feeding them, and if in good soil, 
and given plenty of liquid food, it is astonish¬ 
ing how they branch, the late blooms attain¬ 
ing to a good size.— Dorset. 

The Physalis, or Bladder Cherry.— The 
winter months, when the supplv of flowers for 
cutting diminishes, serve to bring into pronii 
nonce subjects that may be utilised to con¬ 
siderable ad vantage where decoration is car 
ried out in the home. In this connection 
one thinks of the Physalises or Bladder Cher¬ 
ries, those peculiar pods of orange and scar¬ 
let that give a flush of bright colour to a 
room. Notwithstanding the fact, that they 
are not difficult to grow, few there are that 
include them in their borders. Physalisea 
mav lx* raised from seed sown in spring, and 
will come to perfection the following year; 
hnt where a few plants only are wanted, it is 
best to procure thes£ in May for planting 

ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



.November 30, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


5-27 




SALVIA PATENS. 

We are apt to overlook good old plants whilst 


cher, Coreopsis, Aconitum Wilsoni, A. 
autumnale, Gypsopliila paniculuta, Veronica 
subsessilis, etc*. In addition, you might find 


eagerly searching for novelties, and it is just J Carnations, Antirrhinums, and early-flower¬ 
ing Chrysanthemums of much assist¬ 
ance. As the present occupants of 
the border are not a success, it is 
possible the soil is in need of culti¬ 
vation. Only the Hybrid Tea Roes 
would be suitable for so low a wall, 
and for poles, etc., such as Aglaia. 
Wichnraiana, tunica Anemone, Lady 
Gay, Dorothy Perkins, Aimee 
Vibert, etc.] 

Sheltered borders. —I count my¬ 
self fortunate in having a border 
with a south aspect, and backed by 
a high wall. It is trying to somo 
plants during a hot, dry summer, 
but such a border has its compen¬ 
sations, and in early spring it. is 
there where one may find the ear¬ 
liest blossoms. There the winter 
Irises, like reticulata, open; there 
the Seillas, Cliionodoxas, and Snow¬ 
drops give a bright hit of colour in 
the days of the New Year, when 
borders and beds less favoured show 
no signs of flowers. There first, 
and, in fact, the last. Roses of the 
year may be gathered, for to-day— 
October 31st—there are still a few 
blossoms of Caroline Testout to be 
had. Often in a hard winter plants 
like Wallflowers have a poor time 
of it 
given 


Part of a flowering-shoot of Salvia patens. From a photograph 
by Mr. C. Jones, Bourne, Lines. 


possible that many new Salvias are getting in 
front of and hiding the good, useful sorts which 
have proved themselves to be first-rate garden 
plants. S. patens is one of these. It has the 
best of all habits for a bedding plant—viz., a 
perennial tuberous root-stock, which may be 
kept under a greenhouse stage all winter as 
easily as one keeps Dahlias, and is a quick 
grower. Its stems attain a length of 2 feet or 
3 feet, and bear large, downy, soft green 
foliage and long erect spikes of flowers, which 
open in succession nearly all summer, are 
large and attractive in form, and coloured the 
most, lovely blue, almost as deep as that of 
Violets. Whether planted in beds, in lines, 
or in groups among border plants, this 
Salvia never fails to please, and, so far as our 
experience goes, it. grows freely in almost 
any garden soil. Wherever there is a bit of 
garden this Salvia should have a place, and it 
is one of the very best of all blue flowered 
plants for use in the largest efforts at orna¬ 
mental gardening. 


blue flowers, made quite a carpet; also that 
so-little-known and lovely Californian annual, 
Platystemon, with sulphur flowers and beauti* 
ful foliage. There were also both red and 
yellow Polyanthuses, and any amount of out¬ 
door Chrysanthemums. Anyone who knows 
Westmoreland will know how unusual these 
things are ; and we had frost which took the 
Dahlias just, as they had come out. I mav 
add that Colehicum speciosum and Crocus 
speciiksus also were in full flower in October 
instead of August. A hull) with a flower like 
a Tulip, red and yellow, from 5,000 feet up 
on a mountain in Baluchistan, has thrown 
up spear-like leaves, but, so far. no flowers. 

M. V. B. 


NARCISSUS POETICUS EPIC. 
There are many, fine varieties included in 
the pootieus race of Narcissus to-day, and 
the variety Epic, figured in the accompany¬ 
ing illustration, is one of the handsomest, 
and, withal, one of the most valuable. A few 
years ago, prior to the bridging over of the 
gulf between the early and late poetieus kinds 
by the Rev. G. II. Engieheart, nnv worthy 
addition to the group was rightly regarded ns 
handsome and valuable. To be ranked to¬ 
day as a valuable kind the variety must be 
very early or very late in flowering, and Epic 
is one of the latest to bloom. In this way 
the season of flowering is extended, and bv 
raising seedlings from these late-flowering 
sorts there is every possibility of further ex¬ 
in exposed quarters; but, | tending a season already long. Epic is a 
_ ^he advantage of a border bold and strong flower, very solid of petal, 
screened from cutting winds, they and pure in tone, the large flat, crown deoplv 
open their sweet-scented flowers ; edged with blood-crimson. The variety is 
long before the calendar indicates the spring deliciously scented. The flower from which 

! the illustration was prepared was by no 
1 means fully developed at the time, and its 
comparative youth detracts somewhat from 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Herbaceous border.-1 should he glad of .sonic 
advice as to the planting of a very exposed herba¬ 
ceous border in Westmoreland. It is on the upper¬ 
most terrace of n terraced garden, and much ex¬ 
posed to the prevailing south-west wind. There is a 
wall of about 3 feet high at the bark of the border. 
What Roses can be recommended for the wall, which 
could go up poles when they reach the top of the 
wall? Ip Dorothy Perkins suitable for such a posi¬ 
tion or any of the Wiehuraianas? At present the 
border has some perennial Sunflowers. Michaelmas 
Daisies, Tritomas, and a Yucca, 6t<\, hut they do not 
make much way. 1 want the border to be at iis 
best in August and September.—E. M. A. 

[You have, unfortunately, omitted the size 
of the border, and the knowledge of its 
width is always of importance in such mat¬ 
ters. With a view' to assisting many of our 
readers, we are publishing a list of plants 
suitable for border-planting, the subjects 
having been chosen with a good deal of care, 
by reason of their perfect hardiness, free- 
flowering, and adaptability to nearly all 
classes of soils. You might select at will 
from this list, or, if you prefer it, as you re¬ 
quire a display at a given time, plant such 
things as Aster Amellus in variety, Heliopsis 
scabra, Kniphofias, Day Lilies, Aster cordi- 
folius, A. laevis, A. N.-B. densus, A. N.-B. 
Ariadne, Scabioaa caucasica, S. c. alba. 
Lilium tigrinum, some good Montbretias, such 
herbaceous Phloxes as Mrs. E. H. Jenkins, 
Miss Pemberton, Etna, Flambeau, Lothair, 
Eugene Danzanvilliers, Siecle, Sylphide. 
France, etc., hybrid Pentsteinons* Gail- 
lardias, Helianthus muitiflorus plenus, H. i 
tomentosns, IT. in. Soloil d’Or, Senecio pul- I 


has come.—D erby, 

Hardy flowers in autumn.— Early in Sep¬ 
tember I was struck with the value of hardy 
flowers in autumn as I 
looked on many acres 
in a nursery at Christ¬ 
church. The large 
masses of colour 
lighted up the place in 
a way nothing else 
could do. . Some time 
later in the month, 
being in the north of 
London. I paid a visit 
to Finsbury Park. 

Here, again, hardy 
plants were used in 
divers ways among 
low - growing shrubs. 

The display of 
Phloxes, Sunflowers, 
and early - blooming 
Chrysanthemums was 
excellent. I could not 
help thinking what an 
improvement over the 
system adopted in 
these public gardens 
thirty years ago. Only 
those who have seen 
hardy plants used in 
this way can realise 
the colour they give 
and the immense num¬ 
bers used. During 
October, at the fort¬ 
nightly meetings of the 
R.H.S. at Westmin¬ 
ster. hardy plantB 
formed the major por¬ 
tion of plant exhibits. 

Michaelmas Daisies 
and the perennial Sun¬ 
flowers were good in 
many gardens in the 
country at the end of 
October.—J. C. F. 

Westmoreland bor¬ 
ders on St. Mar- 
tin's-day. —This year 
flowers have done 
surprising things. On 
S t. Martin’s - day 
Michaelmas Daisies 

w'ere at their best; some lovely Tea 
Roses were out; also Gentiana acaulis was in 
flower ; the Biarritz Pink#* were in full flower, 
too; and the Nemophila, with Camhridge- 


H- 




r- •:> 


*335 


Narcissus Epic. From a photograph by Jas. E. Tyler, Halstead, Essex. 


its usually handsome appearance. This fine 
variety is now cheap, and lovers of this eec- 
tion should procure it. It is not too late to 
fin so. Oil II’3 I fl R. ,1. 


Google 


UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


S2S 


G. lit 1)/OYlA’G ILLtJSTJl, ITU 1). 


Novembeh 150, 1907 


INDOOR PLANTS. 

ZONAL PELARGONIUMS FOR WINTER 
FLOWERING. 

Large numbers of people are attracted by 
the brilliant flowers of these plants in the 
dark autumn and winter days, when flower¬ 
ing subjects are few and far between, and 
even when the Chrysanthemum is the chief 
flower of autumn, these Pelargoniums find 
their own circle of admirers. A large 
house of these plants in flower is a wondrous 
sight, especially so when we view’ the hand¬ 
some trusses of bloom produced by not 
a few of the varieties. In the matter of 
Cultivation, a few simple details only are 
required, and by following these closely it is 
possible to secure fine examples during the 
winter. The young plants are prepared 
in spring or early summer by potting them 
into 5-inch or 6-inch pots, the potting being 
firmly done to prevent grossness of growth, 
the soil used being only moderately rich. 
Compared with other plants, but a compara¬ 
tively small space is reserved for affording 
water to the plants, and this, in conjunction 
with a greenhouse at all times airy and fre¬ 
quently dry to boot - that is to say, not given 
over to much atmospheric moisture—pro¬ 
duces a sturdy, firm growth, which, in turn, 
gives the best results at flowering time. It is 
the reverse of this—the fat stems and coarse, 
ungainly leafage, too often admired and en¬ 
couraged during the season of growth by the 
unskilled amateur, that causes dissatisfac¬ 
tion and brings disappointment at flowering 
time. Much of this undue grossness of leaf 
and branch is the direct outcome of rich 
soils, too much water to the roots, and, to a 
large extent also, to the close, stuffy, or 
moisture-laden atmosphere in which the 
plants arc grown. Under such conditions as 
these the best results should not be looked 
for. On the other hand, the moderately- 
firm, moderately-sized branches and leaves 
are those calculated to give an excellent dis¬ 
play of flowers when the proper time arrives. 
The above conditions, together with a tem¬ 
perature of about 45 degs. to 50 degs., are 
those under which the plants thrive. There 
are other conditions and not a few details of 
day-by-dav care and attention that, contri¬ 
bute not a little to success, and growing the 
plants quite near the glass, and giving them 
all the light possible, are items not to 1>e 
lost siglit of by the amateur. In the matter 
of potting, the soil about the roots of the 
plant must always be made quite firm, and 
with the soil at potting time in the right state 
ol dryness*, the “rammer,” or potting-stick, 
may be freely used, and to considerable ad¬ 
vantage. As it is in this direction where so 
many amateurs fail—and these notes arc 
written rather for the amateur than the pro¬ 
fessional gardener—or.e cannot too strongly 
emphasise the fact that loose potting, rich 
soils, and a too liberal supply of water at the 
roots, are the items chiefly responsible for 
non-success with these easily-grown plants. 
Some amateurs may, however, be anxious to 
ascertain what the correct amount of water 
to apply to a plant of this character is, and 
“how often it should be done.” These are 
the every-day inquiries by the amateur, and 
the answer is by no means readily supplied. 
The best advice in such a case is that the 
plants may be allowed to go without water 
till they approach the flagging point, at which 
stage immersion in a pail of water for three 
minutes will water them perfectly. This 
may seem a tedious operation, but it will 
prove a safe method until, by experience, the 
amateur has learnt how to gauge the water¬ 
ing by judgment and observation. A plant 
of Zonal Pelargonium may have the surface 
soil apparently wet, while the soil where most 
of the roots are will be just the reverse. 
Some amateurs water their plants so many 
times a week, whether they require it or not, 
hut the “watering” may he but a driblet 
peiietrating to an inch deep, or less, and, in 
such a case, the lower roots receive none at 
nil, or very little. At any time during the 
winter the plants of Zonal Pelargoniums 
would not require water more often than once 
in seven days, and, by reason of the succu¬ 
lent nature of the the planU may ap 

Digitized by (jO glC 


pear to be quite dry without suffering in the 
least. It is he who endeavours to master 
such cultural items as these that will succeed 
in the end. 

Where the* finest trusses of bloom are de¬ 
sired, no single shoot should be allowed to 
carry more than one truss, and by removing 
the extreme point of the growth so soon as 
the truss of bloom is well in sight, all the 
energies of that branch will lx? directed to the 
one truss of bloom. In this way a plant in a 
5-inch pot may readily carry three or more 
trusses of bloom at the same time. More¬ 
over, while these are developing, other shoots 
or branches will lx? coming along with a suc¬ 
cession of trusses. Not only is this method 
to be recommended for ensuring handsome 
trusses of bloom, it is the most systematic 
way of “stopping” the plants and ensuring 
a compactness of growth not to be secured by 
any other means. Few plants more quickly 
feel the ill-effects of fog than these, and in 
towns or crowded areas it is difficult to suc¬ 
cessfully cultivate them during the winter 
months. In such instances, a lute autumn 
flowering may be had by bringing the plants 
indoors earlier, and by permitting the early 
September trusses to develop. Such as those 
will have ample time to give a good display 
before the fog season arrives, while the same 
plants will afford a rich display as I lie days 
lengthen in the new year. 

The following are some of the most dis¬ 
tinct of this fine class :— Ascott, rich, clear 
salmon ; Carmania, salmon-rose; Duke of 
Bedford, crimson ; Helen, Countess of Rad¬ 
nor, rosy-cerise ; Goodwood, white ; Prince 
of Orange, a very remarkable shade of clear 
orange-scarlet; Kingswood, brilliant scarlet, 
with white eye; Countess of Hopetoun, 
white, pink centre ; Sir J. Hanburv, crim¬ 
son ; Mr. J. A. Bell, white and shrimp-pink ; 
Chatsworth, orange-scarlet ; Umbria, deep 
scarlet; and Warley, orange and white, 
motLled. E, J. 


FORCING DAFFODILS. 

How should Narcissus Grand Monarquc, grown in 
pots, be treated in greenhouse?—G. F. 

[At this season of the year not a few ama¬ 
teurs will be desirous of learning how best 
to treat their pots of Narcissus, no matter io 
which section they belong, so as to have 
them in bloom at a serviceable time. Not 
every variety of Narcissus, however, will 
submit to early forcing; some, indeed, resent 
even the protection of the greenhouse, and 
equally resent any attempt at starting them 
too early into growth. It is the knowledge 
as to which kinds arc the best for the pur¬ 
pose that is of the greatest, value in forcing. 
It is also important to know the locality in 
w'hieh the varieties have been grown. For 
instance, anyone desiring to force the well- 
known Paper-white Narcissus into early 
bloom should endeavour to obtain bulbs that 
have been grown in France or in the Channel 
Islands, and, these ripening off much earlier 
than those bull>s grown in less warm districts, 
are more easily forced into bloom. Bulbs of 
all the Polyanthus Narcissus, of which the 
tC Paper-white ” and “Grand Monarquc” are 
examples, when of Dutch growth, arc slow in 
their movements when being forced; and if 
from a Dutch source, are best not employed 
for early work. To be successful in bulb¬ 
forcing, quite apart from what has been 
stated, it is important that the bulbs be 
potted some weeks in advance of the date on 
which it is intended to introduce them to 
the greenhouse. It is a mistake to pot bulbs 
and at once place them in the greenhouse. 
Potted in September or October, covered with 
ashes or other material in the open, and fully 
exposed to the rains, the bulbs will be ready 
for forcing hv the end of November or there¬ 
abouts. At that, time the bulbs may be in¬ 
troduced into the greenhouse, the tempera¬ 
ture of which should not exceed 45 degs. nt. 
night for the first few days. By a little 
observation, the amateur will quickly ascer¬ 
tain whether the plants are responding to the 
treatment, and if so, an increase of 5 degs. 
may be given. The bulbs will be best if 
grown in the warm end of the greenhouse, 
preferably on a cool bed of coal ashes, and 
not placed on a shelf near the glass or near 
the hot-water pipes, where the plants will be 
literally roasted alive. Either of these ex¬ 


tremes will bring disaster, just as failure is 
the sure outcome of purchasing the bulbs 
Into and potting and placing tnem in the 
greenhouse without the least preparation. 

Watering. —One of the more important 
details with regard to forcing the whole of 
the Narcissi is moisture. This applies not 
only to a plentiful supply to the roots of 
the plant, but equally to the atmospheric 
conditions of the house. In the case of 
moisture applied to the roots of the plants, 
this is scarcely likely to be overdone when 
the plants are in full growth. Most fre¬ 
quently the pots of bulbs one sees in an ama¬ 
teur’s greenhouse are much too dry. Quite 
as frequently the pots have never been 
plungeci at all from the time of potting, and 
very often the bulbs are nenrly fully exposed 
to view. Each and all of these play their 
part, and contribute to the list of troubles 
experienced by the amateur. Even when hut 
half a dozen pots of Daffodils are grown, the 
pots should be plunged in coal-aslics. sand, 
or any light material, and be given a position 
in the open where the rain will reach them. 
With plenty of moisture reaching the bulbs, 
the roots permeate the whole body of soil, 
and in turn provide the bulb with its sup¬ 
plies of nourishment. Bottom-heat for Daffo¬ 
dils is not necessary, nor should the plants 
be grown in dark or heavily-shaded frames, 
as is frequently done, for these things hut 
tend to weaken the growth. Particularly 
does this apply to the whole of the Polyan¬ 
thus Narcissi, with their taller stcm6 and 
leaf-growth. Grown in full light, the foliage 
will he strong and vigorous, and, where this 
is seen, good spikes of flowers usually follow.] 


NOTES AND HETTIES. 
Urceolina aurea. This is an extremely 
pretty greenhouse bulb, which flowers during 
the autumn and early winter months, and is 
so distinct that there is no danger of con¬ 
founding it with any other bulbous plant in 
cultivation. The leaves are dark green, and, 
in general appearance, a good deal like those 
of a Eucharis, but they are smaller, and 
borne on much shorter stalks. The flower- 
scape, which reaches a height of a foot or 
more, is terminated by an umbel of drooping 
blossoms. In shape the individual flowers re¬ 
mind one of an urn, their colour being of a 
rich golden-yellow', with a greenish tinge just 
at the mouth. Their texture is thick and 
wax like, lienee they remain fresh and bright 
for a considerable time. This Urceolina 
flowers at this season, after which it makes 
its growth and rests in the summer, during 
which period it must be kept almost dry. 
It is a native of Peru, and was introduced 
by Mr. Pearce, while travelling in South 
America for Messrs. Veitch, in 1H64. A soil 
principally composed of loam, lightened by 
an admixture of sand and leaf mould, will 
suit this plant well. Many years ago, a 
hybrid was raised between Urceolina aurea 
and Eucharis amazoniea. It is a singular 
and interesting plant, known as Urceoeharis 
Clibrani, whose flowers are, in shape, about 
midway between those of the parents, but in 
colour they are pure white, without any trace 
of the yellow of the Urceolina. Though the 
correct specific name of this last is as above 
given, this Urceolina is also known as U. 
pendula.—X. 

Agapanthus umbellatus.— In the note on 

this handsome South African plant (page 
419), no mention is made in the description of 
its varieties of the deciduous white form. 
This, as far as I know, is not recognised in 
any horticultural dictionary, the only white 
mentioned l>eing Agapanthus uml>ellatiis 
albuA, evidently the white form of the type, 
which is evergreen. Large clumps of the 
blue type, 4 f *ot. to 5 feet across, grow per¬ 
manently in the op°n in South Devon, and re¬ 
tain their leaves throughout the entire win¬ 
ter. The deciduous white must l>e a distinct 
species, as its foliage withers in the autumn, 
it is entirely leafless through the winter, and 
the new leaves shoot up from the crown in 
the early spring. I have both the blue type, 
its white variety, and the deciduous white 
growing in the open near to one another, so 
that they may be easily compared. Thu 
leaves of the deciduous white are narrower 
than those of 1 lie type, and the blossoms are 

university of Illinois at 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



Koyeaibek 30, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


529 


a trifle less thickly set in the umbels. Both I 
flower at the same time, and bear bloom- | 
spikes from 3 feet to 4 feet in height. Pos- , 
siblv the deciduous species, dying down en- ^ 
tirely in the winter, and, therefore, being j 
easily covered with protecting material, 
would prove less tender than the evergreen 
forms, though all are perfectly hardy in the 
south-west.—8. W. Fitzherbert. 

CARNATION YALLER GAL. 

This handsome yellow-flowered Carnation is 
usually referred to the Malmaison section, 
but there are unmistakable differences in the 
habit or growth—the more compact bush-like 
habit and the narrower leaves, for example — 
that suggest the influence of a border kind as 
one parent. In the size and form of the 
bLossonis. aud not less so the sturdy, erect 
stems, there is much in common with the 
Malmaison kinds generally. In any case, the 


FRUIT. 

CURRENT WORK AMONG STRAW¬ 
BERRIES. 

As soon as the surface soil is found in fit 
condition to bear being trampled upon, the 
opportunity should be taken to set Straw¬ 
berry borders and beds in order ere winter 
sets in. This will embrace- cleaning the 
ground by hoeing between the rows, as weeds 
have had* it all their own way of late, and 
manuring and top dressing the plantations 
I consisting of plants from one year old and 
upwards. Whatever manure is required is 
I best got on in autumn, so that its fertilising 
properties are washed out of it for the bene¬ 
fit of the roots during the winter months. 
Then, if the residue is lightly pointed in— 
say, in February next—the roots, when 
growtli again becomes active, will soon take 



Carualiou Yaller Oal. From a photograph by Jay. E. Tyler, Iialyteal, Essex. 


variety is a most welcome addition to that 
section of the Carnation which, by reason of 
the size of blossoms, merits the protection 
of a greenhouse to flower it in. Yaller 
Gal does not possess the fragrance of some 
Malmaison kinds, and though this is re¬ 
garded as one of the best attributes of a really 
good Carnation, it is frequently missing from 
what may be regarded otherwise as a high- 
class flower. The above-named Carnation is 
one of that large number of good kinds raised 
by Mr. Martin Smith, at Hayes. 

Propagating Tufted Pansies in winter -It 

is a mistake to suppose that perhaps owing to a 
paucity of cuttings. Tufted Pansies cannot be pro¬ 
pagated late in the year. As a matter of fact, 
given mild weather, very often one may secure most 
desirable cuttings, and. when such is the case, and 
one has frame room, it is a pity to waste them. A 
bed of sandy soil, made level, into which the cut¬ 
tings should be firmly dibbled and then covered with 
a light, is all that is needed, unless hard frost sets in 
when mats or bags should be thrown over them. I 
have frequently, early in December, much better 
cuttings than those on 
WoopUAsrwicK. 

Digitize 


in December, much bette 
m llje plants in October.- 

Google 


possession of it, and a clean surface, or, in 
other words, a good tilth, will result from 
the burying of the manure and in bringing 
a certain amount of fresh soil to the surface. 
The older the plantations the more attention 
do they require each season in the matter 
of top-dressing, as the plants have a habit of 
thrusting themselves, so to speak, above 
ground-level, and unless manurial top-dress¬ 
ing, or its equivalent, is afforded every sea¬ 
son, the plants soon become starved. Very 
few growers, I take it, retain their plants 
after the third or, at the most, fourth season 
nowadays, yet it is when they have fruited*the 
second year that the observations and recom¬ 
mendations respecting top-dressing become 
applicable, and should be put into force. If 
thoroughly decomposed manure is not obtain¬ 
able, a very good substitute is the contents 
of a hot-bed, such as was made up last winter 
for Potato forcing and the like. This ma¬ 
terial, when turned over and well broken to 
pieces prior to wheeling it on the ground, 
answers admirably as a stimulant for Straw¬ 


berries, and a sufficiency of it should be 
placed between the rows, so that when 
levelled down and placed round about the 
collars of the plants the crowns shall just 
appear above it. Spent Musliroom-bed 
manure also forms an excellent top-dressing. 
The same may be said of the contents of 
Cucumber and Melon frames, or pits, the 
soil in which the crops just quoted have 
been grown to bo also included ; in fact, any¬ 
thing of this nature may be used with a cer¬ 
tainty of benefit accruing. Young plants 
set out in the autumn of last year will not 
need more than a slight mulch this time, if 
the soil was in a good state of cultivation at. 
the time of planting. If the contrary was the 
case, then apply a more liberal dressing. 

Borders and beds formed with young plants 
layered earlier in the present year have be¬ 
come so exceedingly well rooted that there is 
not the slightest danger of their being lifted 
by frost during the coming winter—a fate 
which befalls late-set-out plants in the event 
of severe weather occurring. Those who 
were not in a position to plant early should 
take the precaution to make the plants quite 
firm by treading the soil round about them, 
afterwards mulching the surface, if only with 
short litter. Excellent growth has been made 
since the annual trimming and cleaning, fol¬ 
lowing upon the clearance of the fruit crop, 
took place, and fine bold crowns are in evi¬ 
dence on all hands, with ample foliage to 
protect them. A. W. 

NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Regrafting a Pear - tree — Some time (gexeii 
years) ago I planted a Doyennd du (Jomice standard 
Pear in a good soil (loam), well drained, but rather 
near the stump of an Ash-tree, newly felled, and 
the tree cankers, although a pyramid Doyenne quite 
near to it does well, but further from the stump. I 
am thinking of cutting the head oil, and regrafting 
with a healthy, strong-growing variety, such as 
Beurr<5 d’Amaulis, Durondeau, or Souvenir du Con- 
grfcs. Which would you recommend as the best 
grower? The quality would not be up to Comice, but 
I want one to grow healthily, or I must root up 
and plant an Apple-tree.— E. 11. Johnson. 

[Both Beurre d’Amanlis and Durondeau 
Pears are healthy, vigorous, and free-bearing 
varieties, the fruit of the former coming into 
use from the middle to the end of September, 
and that of the latter at the end of October 
and early in November. In regard to 
quality, Beurre d’Amanlis is good, but 
Durondeau surpasses it in that it is a very 
richly-flavoured Pear. Therefore, if its sea¬ 
son of ripening will not be too late, we should 
advise you to select Durondeau in preference 
to Beurre d’Amanlis. We do not think you 
would succeed with Souvenir du Congres. 
Unless the stock and main branches of the 
Doyenne du Comice Pear are in a perfectly 
healthy condition, we should prefer rooting 
it out and planting a new tree, free from 
canker, in its stead, rather than run the risk 
of perpetuating the disease. If canker is 
confined only to the young growths, then, 
by heading back to sound wood and working 
upon it scions of a vigorous growing variety, 
such as you name, you should not be further 
troubled xvitli the complaint, as the extra 
vigour imparted to the stock and its branches 
by such a proceeding will induce it to com¬ 
pletely outgrow it in time. In making this 
assertion, we are, of course, assuming that 
the root system is also in healthy working 
order.] 

Victoria Plum tree dying Are Victoria Plum- 
trees liable to die off quickly or rather suddenly? 
One of mine, after bearing well for seven years, died 
with Plums three-parts grown on it. The soil is 
good.—E. B. Johnson. 

[Plum-trees will occasionally die off sud¬ 
denly, the worst variety in this respect being 
Prince of Wales. Sometimes this is caused 
bv lo«s of foliage from attacks of aphides, 
aiso by birds disbudding the trees to such an 
extent that they die from the shock. In 
other cases it is caused by “gummosis,” 
which attacks the main stem, often at the 
point of union with the scion, and we have, 
in a few instances, attributed it to lightning, 
as the trees were apparently in good health 
previous to a heavy storm occurring. Again, 
injury from frost will sometimes so cripple 
a tree that it eventually dies off, but it is the 
tender varieties only which are liable to be 
affected in this respect. Victoria, being a 
hardy variety - , arid tnri tree in your case 
haying fruit upon it dn a forward state of 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



530 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


Noveuiirr 30, 1007 


development, we are inclined to tliink the 
cause of its death was due either to gumming 
or an electric shock.] 

Grenadier Apple —A Grenadier Apple, planted 
last year, I did not prune, and the only Apples it 
bore "were at the ends of the branches, so if 1 had 
pruned, as some people advised me. 1 should have had 
no fruit.—N. K. L. 

[You wore rightly advised as to the prun¬ 
ing, and although you had a few fruits as a 
result of omitting its adoption, you will find 
that you will be a loser in the end. You will 
now have to prune hard this winter to get 
the tree into shape ; also to ensure growths 
for the extension of the tree, both laterally 
and vertically, in future. This means no 
crop next year. Had you pruned as advised, 
you would, in all probability, have had a nice 
sprinkling of fruit another season. Grenadier 
is one of the varieties which bears fruits on 
the tips of the young shoots made during the 
previous season, but this fact should be 
ignored in the case of a tree not yet estab¬ 
lished— i.c., so far as the leader and exten¬ 
sion shoots are concerned.] 

Miller’s Seedling Apple (It. Ji.). —Miller’s 
Seedling Apple is a Berkshire-raised variety, 
and originated near Newbury, We believe 
trees of it can be obtained from Mr. W. Mil¬ 
ler, nurseryman, Speenhamland, Newbury, 
Berks. The variety is a fairly free grower 
and a good cropper, the fruits conical, of 
good medium size, skin pale vellow when 
ripe, and streaked with red. it is quite a 
handsome Apple, and one of the nicest of all 
the early one© we know. It. also keeps a 
few weeks very well. Being a local variety, 
it had not become known until shown be¬ 
fore the fruit committee of the Royal Horti¬ 
cultural Society, when its beauty and excel¬ 
lence at once secured it an award of merit. 
We have seen it growing and fruiting finely 
in several gardens. 

Pear Belle Julie. —This is one of those 
varieties of Pears that are not widely known, 
and yet worthy of cultivation wherever a 
continuous demand of this highly esteemed 
fruit has to be met. Unless greatly mis¬ 
taken, I first made acquaintance with the 
variety in the gardens of the Royal Horticul¬ 
tural Society at Chiswick, where I was 
much impressed with its deliciously fla¬ 
voured melting flesh. It is in season the lat¬ 
ter end of October and early in November, 
the time varying according to the season. 
Most fruit-tree nurserymen list this Pear, 
and trees may be had on the Quince-stock for 
growing as restricted pyramids, and on the 
Pear to form larger-sized examples and for 
standard©. The fruit© are but small, but 
their delicious flavour more than atones for 
this defect, and they rank with Seckle and 
Danas Hovey, two well-known small Pears, 
as being remarkable for high flavour, com¬ 
bined with a juicy and melting flesh.— 
G. P. K. 

A fine Peach-tree. —The fruit season of 
this year was far from being satisfactory. The 
chief cause for the failure was the long spell 
of low temperature, which began on May 
20 th, and continued up to the time of 
writing. Amongst the things that suffered 
most were the Peach-trees. These were all 
that could be desired up to May 22nd, but 
on this date they gave unmistakable sign© of 
suffering, in frost-bitten leaves, curled leaves, 
and in general a sickly appearance. What 
the man in charge ought to do under such 
circumstances was indeed puzzling, as the 
tree© were never subject to artificial treat¬ 
ment, and to introduce anything tending to¬ 
wards artificial means was never thought, of. 
I withheld water from root and head to a 
considerable degree, giving the trees much 
less water and less often than would be the 
case under ordinary circumstances. Thus, I 
was successful in having nine trees out of 
twelve in a satisfactory condition, as may be 
gathered from the following description of 
one. The tree in question is an Early Grosse 
Miguonne, the fruit of which is generally fit 
for use about August 20th, but this year the 
first fruit© were gathered on September 10th. 
The tree covers a ©pace of wall equal to 
16 feet by 9 feet, and carries fruit of medium 
size at the rate of 18 to the square yard. All 
the fruits were good in colour and highly 
flavoured. — Thomas Fleming, Bray , Co. 

1 Yi'll.nr. 

Digitized by CjOOglC 


GARDEN WORK. 

Conservatory. —Roman Hyacinths are 
now, where potted early, coming into flower 
without much forcing, and they are very 
sweet when arranged in a raised bed of 
Maidenhair Ferns or Asparagus plant© in 
4-inch pots. Both Asparagus Sprengeri and 
A. plumosus are easily raised from seeds, 
and thrifty plants in ©mall pot© are useful 
for mixing with small early-flowering bulbs, 
such as Roman or Italian Hyacinths or 
Tulips. Of course, there will be large 
plants for other kinds of decoration when 
basket© are required to be filled in a hurry. 
Asparagus Sprengeri forms a charming 
groundwork for smaller plant©. At this sea¬ 
son and later, when the Chrysanthemums are 
fading, a good batch of Genistas is very use¬ 
ful, and they stand the conservatory so well. 
We have had them planted out in the border, 
and. when trained as pyramids, they are very- 
bright and sweet. Coronilla©, especially the 
variegated variety of C. glauea, are nice 
plants either in winter or summer. All the 
Chorozemas, when well done, are pretty. 
The demand now i© for long-stalked flowers 
for cutting, and to meet this demand we have 
late Chrysanthemums; and before the«e are 
over there will be Narcissi and long-stalked 
Tulips. The Darwin Tulips will force if not 
hurried too much, and they are so good for 
cutting. 1 tliink more will be done with 
them for early spring flowering under glass, 
As scarlet Salvia© go out of flower, enough 
old plant© may be reserved to produce cut 
tings, and the others thinned out to make 
room. Plumbago capensis may be pruned 
back now into the hard wood. The broad 
leaved Silver Euonymus make© a charming 
plant when it has reached specimen size, 
and there is scarcely any limit to its growth 
when properly trimmed for standing in dark 
corners in corridor© in a tub, ns it keeps its 
colour so well. 

Forcing house.— There i© work for this 
house to do now. Generally there is too 
much forcing for the next three or four 
months. Vines in pots, French Beans, Cu¬ 
cumbers. Tomatoes, and even Pine© have ' 
been grown in a sort of happy family way- 
in one house ; but it takes a good man, who 
doe© not count his hours, to keep all moving 
along comfortably; but I have seen it done, 
though it is hardly wise to expect all these 
things from one house. This is a time when 
a start must be made to provide supplies of 
flowering plants for Christina© and after. 
In my experiences, January and February 
are the worst months for flowers. A gooil 
deal can be done with early flowers. The 
old double Daffodil force© well if potted early 
and never permitted to get dry, when forcing 
begins. Large pots filled with strong bulbs 
will make a good show. Deutzias that were 
established in pots will soon yield to warmth 
and moisture. A few good specimens—and 
Deutzias make good specimens if given large 
pot©—are useful. Large bushes of white 

Azaleas, such as Fielder’s White and 
Deutsche Perle, may be had in bloom at 
Christmas without 'much forcing. It i© 
only a question of getting the growth made 
and ripened early. On somewhat simi¬ 
lar lines, other shrubs, such as Camellia©, 
may be had early in bloom. Lilacs may be 
started in the Mushroom-house, and then 
gradually exposed to light. 

Forcing Peaches. —The trees which have 
been forced in previous year© will begin to 
move now without much fire. Where the 
root© are permitted to run outside, they will 
get plenty of moisture which falls from the 
clouds, and where the house was made with 
movable lights, there were no dry ©pots in 
the inside borders, because the lights were 
taken off, and the trees uncovered when the 
woqd was ripe. Now the trees lose the bene¬ 
fit of this exposure, and there is a danger of 
the inside border© getting too dry, and these 
dry spot© are difficult to moisten thoroughly. 
Therefore, the first thing to do when the 
tree© are pruned is to thoroughly examine 
the borders and moisten the dry spots, if 
there are any, and then apply a top-dressing 
of loam and bone-meal, with a little old 
plaster blended therewith. A night tem¬ 
perature of 45 degs. to 50 degs. will be h : gh 
enough to begin with, and it will not require 


much fire-heat for thi© in a well-built house, 
unless the weather i© very severe, and in the 
event of severe weather it will be better to 
let the temperature fall a little than push 
the heating apparatus. Damp the trees over 
every day with the syringe until the flower- 
bud© expand, and ventilate at 60 degs. 

Strawberries in pots.— These, intended 
for early forcing, mu©t not be exposed to 
heavy rains. If there are cold-frames 
vacant, they may be plunged in ushes or 
leaves, and if there are cold Tomato-house©, 
room may be found for them indoors; but 
they will bo better merely sheltered from 
heavy rain©, ©o that the rest may be as per¬ 
fect as possible. W r e have had plants plunged 
in ashes, frozen quite through, start strongly 
when the time came, and bear very fine fruit. 
The ashes keep the root© sufficiently moist, 
and the crowns, being thoroughly matured, 
are ready to start when warmth is given. 
There should only be one crown to each 
plant. 

In the fruit stores. —All decaying fruits 
should be removed promptly. Very choice 
late Apples and Fears may be wrapped in 
paper and packed in boxes. Fruit keep© 
better in the dark after the sweating process 
is finished. Fears may be ripened a few at a 
time by moving to a warm room, where there 
i© a temperature of 60 degs. or so. The sea¬ 
son may in this way be extended. 

Foliage plants Indoors. -Bay©. Euonv- 
mu©es. and other ornamental shrubs in tub© 
may bo turned to account in corridors, on 
staircase©, etc. Mixed with, or in association 
with, Palm©, they are very effective and 
lasting. Those may be supplemented on 
party nights by a free use of Chrysanthe¬ 
mum© and other flowering plants. There is 
economy without loss of effect in this. 

Outdoor garden. —This i© a bu©v time in 
the garden. There is no better time for 
transplanting trees or shrubs, including 
Roses. 1 often come into contact with 
people who think they are doing Rones and 
other things a kindnes© when they ©mother 
the roots with manure. But, though Roses 
want rich soil, a little good loam among the 
roots is better for them than manure. Blend 
the manure in the soil, and the roots will 
find it. A mulch on the surface i© always 
useful, and a mound of sweet dry stuff round 
the Teas will protect the vital parts from 
frost. Aiuiee Vibert Iioso and Clematis 
Jackmani superba are very effective on an 
arch or screen. We are rather apt to 
neglect old thing© and run alter the new, 
even when inferior. We are being rather 
overdone now with Rambler Roses, especially 
those which only flower in summer, but I 
think more might be done with the Chinas, 
especially such kinds as Dueber, which 
flowers continuously till the frost come©. 
Laurette Messimy is also good, and there 
are others, and these do well on their own 
roots, and can easily be rooted from cuttings. 
Where cut flowers are in demand in spring, 
English and Spanish Irises are cheap, and ©<> 
also are Poppy Anemones, and if these are 
planted they will yield many blooms. 

Fruit garden. —The Gooseberry-mildew 
appears to be spreading in several directions, 
and those whose bushes are free from it 
should not introduce any fresh source© of in¬ 
fection. The best remedy is, without doubt, 
to grub and burn the bushes when its ap¬ 
pearance i© first noticed, and then use pre¬ 
ventive measures to the other bushes. Win¬ 
ter dressings must be taken in hand whether 
we have Gooseberry-mildew or not, as it is 
better and generally easier to prevent than to 
cure. There is plenty of washes now on the 
market, which are easily prepared, and soft- 
soap and paraffin, boiled together, and after¬ 
ward© mixed with water, make a cheap 
wash, which, on u small scale, can be us’d 
through the syringe. Where alkali fluids 
are used for ©praying, if green vegetable© 
are growing under the trees, the leaves will 
be marked with the dropping© from the trees, 
though not permanently injured. More lime 
might be used with advantage among fruit- 
trees and bushes, and if this were done there 
would be less trouble with insect© and mil¬ 
dew. The pruning and training of wall 
trees and espaliers should be pushed on as 
fast as possible whilst the weather is suitable. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


November 30, 1907 


GARDENING IL L USTR. ERE D. 


Vegetable garden —As fast as the fruit- 
trees are pruned and a top-dressing applied, 
fruit-tree borders and Gooseberry (juarters 
may be forked over. The spade is not used 
near the roots of fruit-trees. Many gar¬ 
deners are compelled to crop closely, because 
niuch is demanded, therefore there is not 
much vacant land, or, at least, it does not 
remain vacant long. As much trenching as 
possible should be done every winter, so that 
every four or five years a good deal of the 
land can be worked up deeply, and in the 
manuring operations the next crop i* pre¬ 
pared for. Plots for root crops and early 
Potatoes can thus have the treatment suit¬ 
able for them. Seed Potatoes should be 
classified. Some for forcing can be started 
in boxes, with a little soil among them, or 
they may be started singly in pots, and be 
planted out when the warm beds are ready 
without much disturbance. The bulk of the 
seed Potatoes should soon be placed in 
single layers, crown upwards, in shallow 
trays, ami kept safe from frost. This refers 
to early kinds only; later kinds can wait a 
bit-. Late Cauliflowers, early Broccoli. Let¬ 
tuces, Endives, and Celerv will probably re¬ 
quire some protection, "and Bracken or 
Rushes should be stored dry in readiness. 

E. Hobday. 


THE COMING WEEK’S WORK. 

Extracts from, a Garden Diary . 

December 2nd .—We ahvaj's at this season 
collect a lot of tree-leaves and cart on to 
the Melon or frame ground and make into a 
stack, from which supplies can 1 x 3 drawn for 
filling pits and making hot-beds. The bor¬ 
ders of the early vinery outside have been 
covered a foot deep, and thatched with long 
straw. This keeps in the summer’s warmth, 
and adds to it by gentle fermentation. Hot¬ 
beds have been made up for early Asparagus. 

December 3rd. —Pruned Peaches in late 
house. The trees will be washed and trained 
the first opportunity, and the borders reno¬ 
vated. House will be open night and day 
for the present. Outside Mushroom-beds 
are well covered with long litter. The litter 
is changed when it gets very wet. If any 
beds require water, warm liquid-manure is 
given. This also refers to beds inside the 
house. Rhubarb and Seakale are coming on 
in the house now. 

December 4th. —Violet frames are never 
closed except during severe frost or during 
gales of wind. We once had some lights 
carried off during a gale, and arc now care¬ 
ful. Pruning is still going on, and, as there 
is a good deal, will be continued by the 
pruning staff till finished. In pruning trained 
Plums and Apricots, a young shoot is laid in 
where space can be found without over¬ 
crowding. 

December 5th. t —French Beans have been 
started in 6-inch pots, five Beans in each pot. 
We use this size because they are convenient 
for the shelves. Lilacs, Roses, and other 
forcing shrubs have been moved to cool 
house, from where supplies will be taken to 
warm house at suitable intervals to ensure a 
succession. Bulbs for late flowering are still 
being potted and boxed. These consist 
largely of Narcissi and late Tulips. 

December 6th. —Peaches on walls are being 
linn ailed ready for pruning, but the pruniug 
of Peaches is usually left to the last. When 
the young wood of the Peaches is taken from 
the wall, the trees get a fuller exposure, which 
has a hardening and retarding influence. 
We find a good many insects collecting on 
the grease-bands. These, where numerous, 
will be brushed off, and fresh grease applied. 
All fruit-trees will have a winter dressing of 
Mtme kind. 

December 7th. —Repaired several worn 
spots on tennis lawn with new, clean turf, 
and dressed lawns with special lawn manure. 
We sometimes use basic slag, but last season 
we tried a change to something special, 
which turned out satisfactory, and not much 
increase of expense. We father favour a 
change of diet for all plants. Rearranged 
conservatory, and filled up vacancies with 
fresh plants so as to make the house bright 
and fresh. 

Digitized by (jOv 'glC 


LAW AND CUSTOM. 

Workmens Compensation Act.-As a private 
person, if I employ a mason or carpenter on farms 
occasionally, shall I be liable for compensation if they 
meet with an accident? If they employ other men 
to work with them, who would be liable if an 
accident happened?—M. E. M. 

[If you employ men to do work for you, no 
matter wkat that work may be, provided it 
is connected with your business, you will be 
liable to pay them‘compensation in the event 
of accidents happening. If a man in your 
employ engages another man to assist him, 
without reference to you, and you are not a 
party to his engagement or remuneration, 
you will not be liable for him, because you 
are not his employer. This, however, i<s sub¬ 
ject to what the law says about sub con¬ 
tracting. However, the best advice I can 
give you is that you insure against all even¬ 
tualities. The cost is so trifling and the risks 
are so great that you will be very foolish if 
you do not go at once to an insurance com¬ 
pany, tell them your risks, and ask them 
to insure you.— Barrister.] 


BIRDS. 

Canary with fits (K. Williams).- Give your 
canary the plainest food—that is, very little else be¬ 
sides Canary-seed. Hive the bird a drop or two of 
castor-oil now and then, and never allow anything to 
frighten it; this and dainty feeding being the prin¬ 
cipal cause of fits. When the fits come on, hold the 
cage in the open air and sprinkle the bird with a 
little cold water, which will soon revive it. Birds 
fed on Canary-seed, with a few grains of Hemp-seed 
now’ and again, are the healthiest, strongest, and the 
freest from diseases of all kinds. 


OBITUARY. 


JAMES II. VEITCH. 

We regret to announce the death, at Exeter, 
on November 20th, at the early age of thirty- 
nine, of Mr. James H. Veitch. He was .for 
some years the managing director of the firm 
of Messrs. Veitch and Sons, Ltd., and in 
other ways not undistinguished. Ho was the 
son of John, the greatly regretted and suc¬ 
cessful traveller, and nephew of Mr. Harry 
Veitch. 

He made a long journey round the world, 
especially in the more interesting parts of it, 
for vegetation, and his observations were em¬ 
bodied in an important book of “traveller’s 
notes.” 

In spite of an active life in other ways, lie 
fouucl time for literary work, and produced, 
at his private expense, we believe, the im¬ 
portant “Hortus Veitchi,” a full and 
well-printed account of the trees and plants 
introduced by the house of Veitch, and also 
of the collectors whom they employed. It is 
a most interesting book, and a monument of 
the work of the house. Among the many 
other things of interest in it, there is a full 
account of the hybrids raised in the nursery 
and some history of the firm. 


Letting the R.H.S. Hall —We are asked to 
state that the council of the R.H.S. have re¬ 
vised their arrangements for the engagement 
of the hall by kindred societies for their 
shows in 1908, as follows. (I) If a kindred 
society can, by arrangement, fix their show on 
a Wednesday or a Thursday following one of 
the R.H.S. fortnightly meetings, then the 
kindred society can have the use of the hall 
free of charge, as well as the gate-money re¬ 
ceived at their show (gat© and other at¬ 
tendants being provided by them), but free 
admission is to be given to all holders of 
R.H.S. annual tickets. (2) A kindred society 
unable to adopt such Wednesday or Thursday 
mufti pay £5 to cover the cost of table ar¬ 
rangement, the gate-money being taken by 
them. R.H.S. tickets again to admit free. 
(3) A kindred society declining to admit 
R.H.S. tickets must negotiate for the use of 
the hall ou the same basis us an ordinary 
lessee. Kindred societies wishing to engage 
the R.H.S. hall in 1908 should at once com¬ 
municate with the secretary, Royal Horticul¬ 
tural Society, Vincent-square, Westminster, 
as the number of dates now vacant for hire 
nre very few. 


531 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

Questions.— Queries and answers are inserted i*n 
Gardening free of charge if correspondents follow these 
rules: All communications should be dearly and concisely 
written on one side of the paper only, and addressed to 
the Editor of Gardening, 17, Funnval-street, Ilolborn, 
London, E.C. Letters on business should be sc7it to the 
Publisher. The name and address of the sender arc 
required, in addition to any designation he may desire to 
be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, 
each should be on a separate piece of paper, and not more 
than three queries shoxdd be sent at a time. Correspon. 
dents should bear in mind that, as Gardemnq has to be 
sent to press some time in advance of date., (fueries cannot 
always be replied to in the issue immediately following 
the receipt of their communicatioji. We do not reply to 
queries by post. 

Naming fruit. —Readers who desire our help in 
naming fruit should bear in mind that several specimens 
in different stages of colour and size of the same kind 
greatly assist in its determination. We ha ve received from 
several correspondents single specimens of fruits for 
naming, these in many cases being unripe and other, 
wise pour. The. differences between varieties of fruits are 
in many cases so trifling that it is necessary that three 
tjiecnnais of each kind should be sent. Wc can undertake 
to name only four varieties at a time, and these only when 
the above directions are observed. 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

Grubs in Grass (J. W r . Leigh ).—The grubs }ou bent 
are probably those of the Bracken-clock (Phvllopcrtha 
horticola); but it is possible that they may be im¬ 
mature specimens of the larva? of one of the other 
chafers. Rooks ami other birds are their natural 
enemies, and should be encouraged.—G. S. S. 

Cinerarias drooping {Geo. A. Fallcnet ).-The 
cause of the leaves and flower-stems drooping is due 
to overwatering, and is also sometimes caused bv the 
plants not getting enough light and air. hence'they 
are flaccid and thin, and euunot suatuin their own 
weight when the sun comes out. As a rule. Cinera¬ 
rias get too much crowding in greenhouses and 
frames, and the lower leafage is thus deprived of 
light and air. 

Pelargoniums failing (C. J. Saward). -You can¬ 
not expect your rooted cuttings to grow, seeing you 
have pot t ed them at this season and r-tood them in 
a cool-house. You ought to have kept them in the 
cutting-pots until February or even March, unless 
you can, when you have potted them, place them 
into a warm greenhouse. Cuttings want to be kept 
dry during the winter, more especially in such a case 
as yours, where you can atford no heat. 

Rats and bulbs (.V. B. Weston ).—The only thing 
you can do is to trap the rats. You must not clip 
the bulbs in paraffin, as, if so, you will ruin them. 
You might try what rolling the bulbs in red lead 
will do. Damp the bulbs, put them into a tray, and 
dust them well with the lead, and then plant them. 
You must, of eourse. well wash the hands after 
planting the bulbs. The best plan is to have tho 
drills or holes opened to receive the bulbs, and to 
put them in as soon as ready. 

Worms in lawn (H\ A. W.).— Lime-water is the 
best remedy, and can with safety be applied at any 
season. Place 12 lb. of unelakcd lime in a barrel, and 
pour 30 gallons of water over it, stirring it well up, 
and allowing it to stand for 48 hours. Water the 
lawn with the clear liquid, using a rosed waterpot, 
during damp weather, giving a good soaking on the 
evening succeeding that on which a good watering 
has been given. This will bring the worms to the 
surface, when they can be easily swept up and cleared 
away. 

Woolly-aphis on Auriculas (Fungus).—We have 
found the woolly-aphis frequently on the roots of 
Auriculas. You may allow your plants to become 
very dry, then stand them for a couple uf hours in a 
tub of water so as to drown the ped.s. Or you may 
turn the plant clean out from the soil, wash the roots 
clean, and then repot, using fresh soil and pots. You 
may also turn the plants out of pots without disturb¬ 
ing the balls. Dip them gently into water in a pail, 
in which lias been dissolved 2 lb. of soft-soap ami 
into which I pint of paraifin is stirred, then return 
them to fresh, clean pots. 

Marguerite Carnations (Novice ).—Only in cer¬ 
tain circumstances are these to be regarded as peren- 
uial, and even then not reliable or so good as when 
regarded as of biennial duration only. At the same 
time, many plants produce cuttings or side-shoots 
which may be rooted if the variety is worthy. The 
side-shoots are best stripped away by a downward 
pull, and inserted in very sandy soil, or an inch of 
pure sand under a handlight. If you treat the cut¬ 
tings much in the way you would Pinks, you may 
not only retain the stock, but, by permitting the 
selected ones to seed another year, secure an im¬ 
proved strain of these very useful plants. The rooted 
plants may remain in the light all the winter, and bo 
planted out in March or April. 

Roses from cuttings (Enquirer).— August is the 
best month for striking cuttings from outdoor plants. 
The H.P.'s root freely if cuttings are put in towards 
the end of September. Mark out a bed about 4 feet 
wide, and mix therein plenty of gritty soil. The best 
place is one partially shaded by a few trees or a 
hedge, but the cuttings resent total shading. 
Make the cuttings from (i inches to 7 inches long, 
and if you can get them with a heel, so much the 
better. When planting, make a niche across the bed, 
and insert the cuttings therein to almost their full 
length, seeing to it that the ends rest in the soil. 
Press the soil firmly agninst the cuttings, then put 
in another row G inches distant from the first. 
Almost all the Tea and H.P. Roses can he increased 
in this way. See the note on “ Roses raised from cut- 
tings," in our issue of November lGth, p. 500. 

Malmaison Carnations (.V. N., Acton ).—The 
plant** -hould have Bren pelted after rlie flowering 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



GARDENING ILL USTRA TED. 


November 30, 1007 


waa over la&t spring, for then the new growth would 
have been materially strengthened by the roots pene¬ 
trating into and obtaining the food supplies from the 
new soil. You do not say what size pots the plants 
are in, and upon this and their present condition 
would depend the advisability or otherwise of re¬ 
potting them at this season. In not a few instances, 
however, it would be best to leave the potting alone, 
preferring to adopt the alternative of feeding the 
plants with liquid-manure at each watering. If, on 
the other hand, you can insure great care in the 
after-treatment of the plants, and particularly in 
watering, the plants could be potted now with ad¬ 
vantage. In so doing you should give the plants a 
good watering three days before you intend to repot 
them. Then, with soil in good condition and in 
readiness, select sonic pots of a size that would 
insure I inch of new soil being added to the size ot 
the old ball when this is in position in the new pot. 
For example, if the plants are now in pots 7 inches 
in diameter, a pot not less than !> inches in diameter 
should be selected for the shift. Let the pots be well 
drained, ami disturb the old ball of roots but little. 
When repotting use loam, two-thirds, with old manure 
and leaf-mould in equal parts for the other third. 
Sand should be added freely, and some bone-meal, if 
you have it. l)o not water the plants for a fortnight, 
then give a thorough soaking. 

TREES AND SHRUBS. 

Propagating Ampelopsis (G. Cuttings of 
Virginian Creeper may be made and put in thickly 
into pots and stood under bell-glasses, or into close 
frames, selecting short lengths of fairly firm wood of 
the present season’s growth for the purpose. Seeing 
that you can purchase strong plants, 4 feet in height, 
in pots from nurseries for from Is. to Is. 6d. each, 
thus gaining two or three years, is it not so much 
better to plant such than to bother about propagat¬ 
ing, which is a slow process? Very good plants can 
be made by bringing down nice young shooU, just 
making a notch or slit under a leaf eye or bud. then 
layering these shoots in the soil. They root well in a 
few months. 

. FRUIT. 

Walnut tree not fruiting (Perplexed).--You say 
nothing as to the soil in which your Walnut-trees 
are growing, but if it is clay, it is probable that 
they fail to fruit from the want of lime. Walnuts 
like a carbonaceous soil, a chalk soil suiting them 
admirably. The best tiling you can do is to smother 
the. soil round about the trees with lime, and at once 
fork it in. Next season, say, in April, give the trees 
a further dressing of kainit, potash, and soot, also 
forking this in. 

Pears failing ( G. II. C .).—Yours Pears have been 
attacked by a fungus (Cladosporium dendriticum), 
which has caused the cracking on the skin and the 
black spots. This is due to the roots going down 
into the cold, clayey soil to which you refer. When 
root-pruning you have, probably, omitted to cut oil 
the tap-root, which lias gone down into the bad 
soil. Until you wJo this the trouble will continue. 
You should syringe the tree with the caustic alkali 
solution that has so often been mentioned in these 
pages. 

Canker in Apple-trees (Ribston Pippin).— Canker 
spreads in Apple-trees, if of varieties such as 
Ribston Pippin, King of the Pippins, Wellington, and 
some others. These all are far more susceptible to 
attacks of this disease than are many others, which, 
in the same ground and close by, never suffer at all. 
Your best course, all the same, is wherever canker is 
seen to pare away the diseased part of the bark and 
to paint with coal tar, quite warm. The parings 
should be caught on paper, and be burned, as these 
contain the fungus or disease germs, which, if allowed 
to lie about, will only breed the canker. After all, 
canker is more caused in trees by failure on the part 
of soil to furnish proper tree food. The roots of 
your tree, doubtless, have gone deep into sour soil. 
If you could have a deep trench opened round the 
tree, sever all deep-running roots, then refill the i 
trench with good soil, and give the surface a mulch 
or dressing of manure, encouraging new roots to 
form, you might in time free the tree from canker. 

VEGETABLES. 

Tonks' manure Ui. S. Far den).—' This manure can¬ 
not be purchased. You can purchase small quantities 
of the ingredients and mix them yourself. The fol¬ 
lowing is the recipe: Superphosphate of lime, 12 
parts; nitrate of potash, lu parts; sulphate of mag¬ 
nesia, 2 parts; sulphate of iron, 1 part; sulphate of 
lime, h parts. Apply, preferably in February, at the 
rate of \ ib. to the square yard. 

Growing Celeriac (De Ron fib us). —you have 
failed to produce large roots, it may be advisable in 
\our case to dig trenches as for Celery, except that 
they need not be deep, then fill two-third* with de¬ 
cayed manure, and replace the soil. Slope the sides 
towards the plants so that, when watering, the 
plants get the benefit of it. In a dry season semi- 
aquatic plants, such as this, would be sure to suffer, 
unless an ample supply of moisture and rich food was 
forthcoming. Treated on these lines, no complaint 
ought to be found either in the size of the root or 
the delicacy of its substance when cooked. 


that you cannot keep them.- Hyson.— See article on 

“ Dcciduons Ferns,” in this issue, p. 521.- Acme.— 

A little guano now and then should answer. Be care¬ 
ful not to give an overdose, use it often and a very 

little at a time, and only when the fibre is moist.- 

E. J. S.—l, We should say that Hobday's “ Villa 
Gardening ” w'ould answer your purpose. This can 
be had from this office. 2, Wc hope to publish an 
article dealing with the destruction of rats in an 

early issue.- J. F. The best double white Camellia 

is C. alba plena, still unsurpassed. Any nurseryman 

can supply this.- Spes.— Cut the flowers early in the 

morning before the sun lias made itself felt. If you, 
directly you have cut the blooms, dip the stems into 
hot water this will prevent the blooms falling pre¬ 
maturely.- A. B. Af.-A full reply to your query 

re “ Fungus on Christinas lloses " was given in our 
issue of October 12th, p. 434, under the initials 
•• Mrs. H. II.” Re Celery trouble, see reply to ” West 
Cliillingtoii,” in our issue of October 5th, p. 420. 
Your Celery has been attacked by the same disease. 

- Enquirer. —See reply to ” II. B.,” ill our issue of 

November nth. p. 489, rc “Moss in lawn.”- U. J. S. 

-See next issue.-C. F. — Judging from the plant 

you send, we should imagine that your plants are 
old and have exhausted the soil. Had you planted 
fresh layers each year, we do not think you would 

have had any trouble.- Erin. — It is very hard to 

sav without ‘further particulars. The plants have 
evidently hail a check in some way. Have you been 
using artificial manures? If so, an overdose would 
cause the trouble. 


NAMES OP PLANTS AND FRUITS. 
Names of plants.- -Comical/.— Evidently one of 

the late-flowering Michaelmas Daisies.- Marion Maud. 

—Cor on ilia varia.- M. L. E., Tyrid Cuff.— Evidently 

a Willow, and in all probability the Goat Willow 
(Salix caprea). Of no particular ornament or value. 
- Jessie. M. P. Walker.— The Virginian Poke (Phy¬ 
tolacca decandra). 

Names of fruit — B. Cozens Hardy.- Pear Reekie. 

- E. ('. Bird.- Apple not recognised; very probably 

a purely local variety. Please send a few samples of 
the variety you call Devonshire Dainty.- J. John¬ 

son, Birkdale.- From its Bon Chretien-like flavour, 
we think the Pear to be Due de Nemours. 

D. Gill, Swinibridge.— Apples: 1 , Rednette du Canada; 

2, Not recognised.- E. E. -Kindly read our rules as 

to naming fruit.- W. L. Bird.- Pear Beurr<5 Hardy. 


Ashes from refuse destructor. - I have a 
garden in a coast town, and can get any quantity ol 
burnt refuse from the town s refuse-destructor there. 
The ashes have the appearance of a nice brown sharp 
sand Would some reader kindly say if this would be 
good for Hoses and the garden gencrally?-SAiNT 
MUNGO. 



150,000. 

Our Home-grown Cheshire Roses 
Succeed Everywhere. 

For masses of fibrous roots and hardy con* 
stitution they are unequalled. Rose experts 
pronounce them the finest ever seen. All are 
on Brier, by far the best and hardiest stock. 

** SEND FOR A SAMPLE DOZEN AND JUDGE. 


12 BUSH H.P. ROSES. Set 1, including Frau K. 
Drusebki, and one gratis, 6s , carr. paid. 

12 BUSH H.P. ROSES, Set 2, including Hugh 
Dickson, and one gratis, 6s., carr. paid. 

12 BUSH DARK H.P. ROSES. Set 3, and one 

gratis. 6s., carr. paid 

12 BUSH TEA ROSES, Set 4. and oue gratis. Us., 
carr. paid 

12 BUSH H. TEA ROSES, Set 6, and one gratis, 

9s., carr. paid. 

12 BUSH H. TEA ROSES, Set 7, and one gratia, 
9s., carr. paid. 

12 CREEPING WICHURAIANA ROSES, 

Set 8, and one gratis, 6s. 6d., carr. paid. 

12 JAPANESE ROSES IN 6 VARIETIES, 

Set 9, and one gratia, 7s. 6d., carr. paid. 

12 SUPERB CLIMBING ROSES, Set 10, and 

one gratis, 10s., carr. paid. 

12 CLIMBING POLYANTHA ROSES, Set 11, 

including Lady Gay. and one gratis 9s., carr. paid. 

12 PENZANCE BRIERS, Set 12, and one gratis, 
7s. 6d., carr. paid. 


SHORT REPLIES. 

Dickie. — Without knowing about the soil it is very 
difficult to advise. After you arrive you should look 
I. 11 mi and see if any Willows are grown and the 
a :iriety used. We should imuginc that any annual 
si eds will grow. You must be guided entirely by the 

s nl and the climate.- G. F. — 3, All depends on the 

I eat you can keep up and whether the pot Vines 
hive been grown well and the wood thoroughly 
lipened. Unless you have had practical experience, 

wc fear you will not succeed.- Raven.— Judging 

from the specimen bunch you send, we should imagine 
that previous to your bottling the Grapes the bunches 
were very much 


Digitized b 



For NEW and all other ROSES, see our 
ROSE A BULB CUIDE, Gratis and Post Free. 

Chester-le-Street, Oct. 15. 1907. “The 50 Rosea you sent 
me last yearhave done really well."—J. D., Esq. 


The horticultural company, 

Rose Crowers and Specialists, 

(No. 2) CHEADLE-HULME, Cheshire. 


The Boile r for Am ateurs. 

K IN NB BL’S 


SILVER MEDAL 
“ HORSE-SHOE.” 



Will burn from 10 to 20 hours. Over 20,000 in use. 

Awarded 2 Gold Medals by Bo.anical Society. 


CHEAPEST BECAUSE BEST. 

Illustrated Catalogue, l’luus, and Estimates free on 
receipt of particulars to - 

CHAS. P. KINNELL & CO., Ltd., 

65 & 65a, Southwark St., London. S.E. 


fESPALIER FENCING' 

I For Training Fruit Trees, I 



Hrg*5| Jp 

[ j J3E ] , & 



s 


> 


CONTINUOUS COVERED WAYS. 

For Training Fruit Trees or Climbing Plants, 
8ft. high. 5ft. wide, painted green or any colour. 
Cash price, 9 6 per yard run. 

A Cheaper Pattern, 6ft. Sin. high, 5ft. span, made 
with loose rods and arch bars, at 6/- P cr yard. 


MATERIALS FOR WIRING WALLS. 

Galvanised Wrought Iron Eyes, 5d. per dozen! 
Galvanised Raidisseura, 3 - per dozen; Galvanised 
Terminal Holdfasts, 2 - per dozen. Best quality of 
Wire, 13 gauge, 1/6 per 100 yards; 14 gauge, 13 per 
100 yards. _ 

Illustrated Catalogue of Requisites for 
the Stable, Kennol, Poultry Yard, Park, 
Estate, Garden, etc., free on application. 


BOULTON & PAUL, Ltd, 
NORWICH.« 
GOOD CHEAP GLASS. 

Always in stock, large or small quantities, in the following sizes. 

12 by 10 14 by 12 20 by 12 20 by 14 20 by 18 

14 by 10 16 by 12 18 by 14 20 by 16 22 by 18 

16 by 10 18 by 12 18 by 16 21 by 16 24 by 18 

100 feet boxes\ 100 feet boxes) «a /#j 3rds quality 

4ths, 15-oz. I 14 0 -Iths. 21-os. f 10/0 1,6 per box extra 
Note. Glass cut to any s'ze at slight advance on above PT*«*. 
in large or small quantities Special Lines. —8 by 6, 9 by 7, 
10 by 8, 12 by 8, 13 by 9. 15-oz., 12a.! 21-oz.. 14s. per box. 
Is. extra for Srds. Putty, 28 lb., 2s. 6d. Paint, Sash- 
Bars, Nails and Roofing; Felt, Iron and Zinc 
Gutters. Oil and Varnish, from stock. Pnt 
free on rail in London. Package free. All glass is Bent direct 
from stock at my warehouse (not from wharf), carefully 
exaiuiuod, and guaranteed to be in sound condition before 
handing to railway co. Intending purchasers will do well to 
consider the advantage of buying direct from stock at ware¬ 
house. All glass is carefully packed, put direct on rail, nsk 
of breakage very slight. Before placing oiwra with ajrem, 
please write for wholesale prices to—J. B. ROBIPiaU-N, 
Wholesale Glass and Builders’ Merchant, 31, Moor-lane. 
London, E.C. Continuous advertiser in thi6 paper for 
over 20 years. _____ 



GREENHOUSES. 


Intending Purchasers should send for our Illustrated Pr*c* 
List of Greenhouses and Portable Buildings, et^. com 
from 48s., post freo, two stomps.—8. HARTLEY « laj. 
Horticultural Builders, The Wharf, Shipley, Yorkshire. 

The latest day £groHln* a Advertl*emaBti 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 


URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATE D. 


Xo. 1,500.— Vol. XXIX. 


Founded by W. Jtobimm, Author of “The Bnylieh Flomr Garden." 


DECEMBER 7, 1907. 


INDEX. 


Achiinene-nhoots, corum 

on .538 

Anemone eoronaria 
BeedliiiBB .. .. 544 

Apple Norfolk Beauty.. 534 
Apple-tree, American 
bright ou .. .. 544 

Black Currants not 

fruiting.534 

Bordeaux mixture .. 544 
Cabbages for spring cut¬ 
ting .512 

Camellias losing their 

buds .538 

Carnation and Picoteo 541 
Celery bolting ., .. 544 

Chrysanthemum Cap¬ 
rice de Printeuipj .. 536 


Chrysanthemums .. 536 
Chrysanthemums fur 
exhibition, growing .. 536 
Chrysanthemums for in¬ 
door flowering, twelve 
< early-flowering .. 544 
Chrysanthemums, some 
new early .. .. 536 

Chrysanthemums — the 
Crystal Palace Show 536 
Cineraria and Primula 
foliage curling .. 538 
Conservatory .. ., ,543 

CrocuB medms .. 540 

Delphiniums from seed 544 
Dendrobium nubile .. 537 
Eucalyptus, cutting 
down .541 


Ferns .537 

Ferns for the room . 543 
Ferns, growing in pots 537 
Ferns, scale on .. .. 542 

blowers out of season .. 538 

Fruit .533 

Fruit garden .. .. 543 

Fruit-trees, lifting the 

roots of.533 

Garden diary, extracts 

from n.513 

Garden pests and 

friends.541 

Garden work .. .. 543 

Grass, a beautiful and 
effective .. .. 539 

Habcnaria pusilla 537 

Hollyhocks, planting .. 539 


I Indoor plants ,. .. 533 

Iris, treatment of .. 541 

| Lawn, draining u .. 539 

1 Liliuni Hansoni .. .. 539 

i Lolielia sessilifolia ,. 541 

1 Loquat-tree fruiting .. 534 

Moss in lawn .. .. 514 

Musk, the common .. 544 

| Orchids.537 

' Outdoor garden .. .. 543 

Outdoor plants .. .. 539 

Pooch-house, the late .. 543 I 

Plants and flowers .. 535 

Plants, the most beauti¬ 
ful mixed border .. 540 

Plants, window, in 

winter.538 

Potatoes, eurly, in pots 543 


Plum Coe's Golden 

Drop .534 

Plumbago, treatment 

of.514 

Problem, dealing with a 

serious.533 

Rats, methods of de¬ 
stroying.541 

Room and window .. 538 

Rose Lady Gay .. .. 535 

Rose Marquise de Sinety 
in the forcing- 

house .536 

Roses .535 

Roses, book on .. .. 544 

Roses, mulching and 
pruning newly- 
planted.535 


Rosen for conservatory 

wall .535 

Royal Horticultural So¬ 
ciety .544 

Sea kale.542 

Seeds, old.534 

Shrubs for forcing .. 513 

Stove .543 

Vegetable garden .. 543 
Vegetables .. .. 512 

Vine borders in win¬ 
ter .534 

Vines for cold green¬ 
house .534 

Vinca in pots, forcing .. 543 
Violets, diseased .. 511 
Week's work, the 
coining.513 


FRUIT. 

LIFTING THE ROOTS OF FRUIT TREES. 
I\ the case of orchard trees where they have 
room to strilte out, a little exuberance at the 
beginning may not, matter much, as after a 
time the tr«?e.s will bear freely without med¬ 
dling with the root*?. But with wall trees, 
espaliers, and pyramids steady progress and 
the production of short jointed wood are 
better both for the present and the future 
than anything approaching grossness. No one 
nowadays w ould attempt to correct a too gross 
habit by the use of the knife to the branches, 
it being well understood that the proper 
course is to apply the remedy to the root, 
which is the seat of the evil. A young tree, 
or a middle-aged tree for that matter, may 
make too much wood or wood of an unfruitful 
character even when it has not been over¬ 
manured. Loose, newly-made borders en¬ 
courage strong grow th always, and when there 
lias been no sun to steady the grow th, it may 
easily acquire a too plethoric habit. In the 
case of young trees of too vigorous a tend¬ 
ency, root-lifting is the best remedy, and it is 
easily carried out, and the sooner it is done 
now the better, if the work be carefully done. 
Begin far enough away from the tree, open a 
trench deep enough to get under the roots, 
and then w ith a fork work towards the trunk. 
Lift out the roots, especially those which are 
young and that will develop fibres, cutting off 
those which have a pronounced downward 
direction, and save all that can be lifted near 
the surface. There are soils so well drained 
naturally that they never produce gross wood. 
The inference may be drawn from this, that 
all land intended for fruit growing, if not 
naturally dry, should be drained, so ns to 
meet the requirements of a dull, damp sum¬ 
mer. The trees most likely to suffer from 
over-luxuriance are sto:ie fruits, especially 
Peaches and Apricots. It is not customary 
to plant these in land that has been recently 
manured, but old turf full of fibre will often 
produce wood of too gross a character for fer¬ 
tility, simply because in a dull summer it is 
impossible to ripen it before winter. Lifting 
the roots in such a case, making the soil firm 
beneath, and then relaying the roots in the 
border not more than from 9 inches to 
12 inches from the surface, is n simple and 
easy remedy, and if the work is done whilst 
the leaves still retain their influence upon the 
buds, the latter may yet become fertile and 
the wood firm and hard. Tf the leaves flag 
after the roots have beep lifted, hang a few 
mats in front of them when the sun is hot, and 
use the garden engine to damp the foliage. 
If the leaves are kept up their action will 
soon l>e felt upon the roots, and to convert a 
gross-habited tree into a fruitful one quickly 
is worth some effort. Young Peaches under 
glass often develop a character closely border¬ 
ing on crossness, and the only remedy if fruit 
is required is to get iindenffllr ropls and IfL 
them without much dararfce biyVd aCfttlkp 
shortening. Even if the tr^Ve noQTi^ 


ally too gross for immediate fruit-bearing, it 
would even then be beneficial to lift up the 
young roots, and the mere fact of doing so 
would tend to the production of fibres nearer 
home and be a permanent benefit. It is not 
well for the permanence of trees when roots 
rush too quickly through the border provided 
for them, producing a corresponding exten¬ 
sion of branches. It is an advantage, of 
course, to fill a house quickly, but if fruit is 
wanted early, then lifting the roots is the 
only remedy. 


DEALING WITH A SERIOUS PROBLEM. 
It is a mistake to regard the orchard as dor¬ 
mant, in the sense that it requires no atten¬ 
tion until spring quickens it into visible life 
and fecundity. At the present moment it is 
teeming with living organisms, comprising in 
their myriad forms a vast, overwhelming 
force, whose potency for mischief and de¬ 
struction is incalculable. If fruit-growers 
would only realise that a study of Nature, 
her laws and extraordinary perseverance, is 
absolutely essential to the success of their 
calling, we should hear much less of bad 
luck, poor prices, and the impossibility of 
making more than a bare livelihood from the 
culture of the land. The long winter even¬ 
ings are with us, the only time in the year 
when the farmer and market-grower find* lei¬ 
sure for reading, and I can imagine no more 
interesting, and at the same time profitable, 
occupation than a study of that branch of 
science to which the late' Mbs Ormerod made 
such valuable contribution. The cry nowa¬ 
days is "Back to the land,” but the well- 
meaning philanthropists who utter it are, 
many of them, profoundly ignorant of what 
“Back to the land ” entails. To bid the man 
who has failed at practically everything, who 
is uneducated and unwilling to use his brain, 
look to the land for his sustenance, is to offer 
him but the barest possibilities. Nature is 
a proverbially bad mistress if a strangely 
accommodating helpmeet, and only to those 
who are prepared to do something more than 
merely dig, plant, and gather does land cul¬ 
ture offer the smallest inducement. 

Insect pests.— For years the great-cot 
menace to the fruit-grower has been the pre¬ 
valence of insect pests. To-day the evil is 
os pronounced as ever, in spite of all that 
has been said and written in the past. No 
good will be done by pretending that this is 
not so, or that preventive measures are car 
ried out by any but an utterly insignificant 
proportion of the community. We know of 
districts where fruit is very largely culti¬ 
vated, yet hardly a man concerned in the 
industry has the remotest idea as to the life 
history of even one of the pests which an¬ 
nually rob him of the produce of his labour. 
On the face of it, the statement sounds ab¬ 
surd, yet. it is irrefutably true. The situa¬ 
tion is precisely equivalent to that of a man 
who would seek a living in some foreign 
country without making the smallest effort 
to understand its people, all of whom are 


determined to hinder and harass him in 
every possible w ay. The man would be re¬ 
garded as a lunatic, and so, speaking plainly, 
is the fruit grower who, without attempt at 
retaliation, is content to submit to the con¬ 
tinued ravages of insect pests upon his crops. 
Were it not for its most serious aspect, this 
extraordinary spirit of indifference to self 
interests would be positively farcical. Lately 
we have discussed matters with a man who 
blindly refusee to “waste money” on spray 
ing apparatus. The summing up of his rea¬ 
sons for preferring damage to sound crop.s 
is illuminating: “It’s a lot of trouble, and 
even if the stuff do kill the vermin, some are 
bound to escape.” Such unreasoning stu¬ 
pidity is sickeningthe arguments are those 
of a feeble, spiritless class, who, with no 
prip or purpose, drift aimlessly through life. 
To put it briefly, the fruit growing industry 
in this country is crippled, ow ing to the way 
in which insect pests have been allowed to 
increase. The quality of our crops is, on 
the whole, poor and unsatisfactory; capital 
is being wasted; the resources of the ground 
are taxed in vain. 1 can imagine someone 
reading this, and afterwards visiting one of 
the winter shows, at which special displays 
of fruit are a feature. “Doesn’t look as 
though fruit-raising in England was a fail¬ 
ure !’ would be the remark at the sight of 
the piled up dishes of magnificently-coloured 
Apples and’Pears. All the same, i maintain 
that it. is, and the fact becomes the more re¬ 
grettable when the spectacle of these self 
same fruits indicates what might be done. 

Cortwiiii of our leading growers, and not a 
few private gardeners, systematically spray 
their fruit-trees, waging ceaseless war on 
insect foes. 'These are the men who are 
enabled to stage such fine examples. Their 
reward is great. For the others, look around 
our country districts—in the shops, on mar¬ 
ket-stalls, and the barrows of street vendors 
—and note the under-sized, blemished, 
shrivelled stuff, which i.s a disgrace to our 
reputation. No good will be -achieved by 
mincing matters, or pretending that things 
arc different. Wc might, if we chose, raise 
as fine, hardy fruit as any in the world; 
certainly we might more than hold our own 
in home markets. Instead of that, buyers 
are asking for foreign fruit because of its 
attractive appearance. Tf spraying once be¬ 
came general throughout the country, in 
three years’ time the quality of the fruit 
would have advanced 50 per cent. Ae to cost, 
it would be infinitesimal, more especially if 
action, instead of being confined to a few 
isolated individuals, were unanimous. The 
makers of spraying apparatus may cry their 
wares, the chemists advertise their powders 
and spray mixtures, but until the grower him¬ 
self has studied the life-history, mode of re¬ 
production, and vulnerable {minis of the 
various insect pests, nothing definite will be 
done. Hence, during the winter evenings, 
there i,s an occupation in whose advantages 
every fruitgrower in the country should 
participate] A vie; in. Firrm ivtd PODiL 
















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Google 


Original from 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



^December ?, 190? 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


535 



PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

ROSES. 

ROSE LADY GAY. 

One can hardly realise how the Rambler 
Roses have altered the appearance of our 
gardens since- their advent some fourteen 
years ago. It is true we had then the delight¬ 
ful Ayrshire and Evergreen Roses, that fes¬ 
tooned many an arch and tree-stump, and 
even now we cannot afford to dispense with 
Felicite-Perpetue, Bennet’s Seedling, Flora, 
and Myrianthes renoncnle. 


It must be admitted that under certain con¬ 
ditions there is very little difference between 
Lady Gay and Dorothy Perkins ; but if grown 
side by side upon young standards, the dis¬ 
tinctness is marked. It may be that in Lady 
Gay we have a variety rather too heavy for 
decoration, and florists say that Dorothy Per¬ 
kins is lighter, and, consequently, more useful. 
To make handsome pillars in pots of Lady Gay 
and of Dorothy Perkins, one should aim at the 
production of two or three good young rods, 
which would supply the blossom the next year, 
so that when out of bloom, the older growths 
are cut away, and these young rods brought 
on in every possible manner, so that they 
obtain all summer to ripen them. 


these Roses upon tall Briers. If they could 
be procured 10 feet high, so much the better. 
They are also beautiful as ordinary standards, 
and appear to advantage when planted 
around a lawn or at various angles. Another 
excellent method of growing them is to place 
some6trong hurdles across the garden, setting 
out the plants about 6 feet apart. When 
they reach the top, they droop over the other 
side right to the ground, and will, even then, 
run along the ground. The growths should 
be kept, fairly open, so that all have an oppor¬ 
tunity of the ripening influence of sun and 
air, and the blossoming then is more prolific. 

For pots, tw T o-year-old own-root plants are 
much the host. Pot up in October. Cut 
them back to about 18 inches at time of pot¬ 
ting, and in the spring they will yield beauti¬ 
ful clusters. Then, during the summer, if 
grown on under glass, such plants will make 
long growths which enable one to use them 
for pillars, etc. We saw recently a large 
number of Dorothy Perkins growing in wire 
hanging baskets, and these should find a 
ready sale next season, for, doubtless, they 
will he very pretty when hung up so that the 
trails of blossom-laden growth may droop 
from the baskets. Some very good late- 
flowering companions for Lady Gay would be 
Trier, Debutante, Waltham Rambler, Mine. 
Alfred Carriere, Gruse an Teplitz, Long 
worth Rambler, Belle Visehyoise, Perle d^s 
Neiges, Francois Foucard, Francois Croussc, 
etc. 

Some good new Rambler,s, which I will 
describe in a subsequent article, but which, 
in the meantime, all should plant who have 
apace, are: Goldfinch, Kathleen, Tan send- 
schon, Paradise, Delight, Stella, Wedding 
Bells, Waltham Bride, Snowstorm, Lady 
Godiva, ami Minnehaha. 

Lady Gay is of American origin, having 
been raised by Mr. H. Walsh, who has al«o 
given us such lovely gems as Hiaw'atha, De¬ 
butante, Sweetheart, Minnehaha, and Wed¬ 
ding Bells. Rosa. 


Rambler Iloee Lady Gay. 


NOTES AND REPLIES . 

Mulching and pruning newly - planted 
Roses. 1 nave just planted a number of Roses, 
and not having grown Roses before, I am puzzled 
to know what to do as regards manuring and prun¬ 
ing. One tells me not to top-dress with manure 
now, and not. to prune in spring at all; and another 
says, top-dress with a good layer of cow-manure, amt 
in March amt April prune all trees alike very hard, 
it being the first >ear of planting. Should I manure 
by top-dressing or. if not, how should 1 treat Rases 
first year of planting? How treat as to pruning, 
first, year of planting? Kindly name a few more 
good Roses for border for my guidance in future pur¬ 
chases?— ARDEF.N. 

[We do not favour mulching newly planted 
Rones with wet, heavy manure; but if you 
could cover the soil with some rather light 
material, such as stable manure that has 
been well turned over two or three times 
during the summer, then we arc of opinion 
that it would benefit the roots, and keep 
them snug for the winter. In a year or two, 
when plants have well laid hold of the soil, 
then some good manure, dug in in the 
autumn, is decidedly helpful. We have 
found it best to prune hard the first season 
—that is to say, to within 3 inches to 5 inches 
from where budded. In the subsequent yearu 
the sorts must not be pruned all alike, the 
weak and moderate growers usually receiving 
a more severe cutting back than those of 
greater vigour. Frau Karl Druscliki and 
J. B. Clark you could grow ns pillar Roses— 
indeed, for the latter this would be the best 
manner of treating it. _ We shall have ar¬ 
ticles dealing with pruning Roses before the 
time for the work arrives, and we would 


Ever since the introduction of Crimson 
Rambler, some fourteen years ago, the addi¬ 
tions to this class have been almost embar¬ 
rassing, for, although there is a great dis¬ 
tinction between Rosa multiflora, of which 
Crimson Rambler is an example, and R. 
Wichuraiana, to which the subject of our 
illustration belongs, yet they all come under 
the category of “ Rambler.” Lady Gay is 
what one might term a glorified Dorothy Per¬ 
kins. In size of blossom it is superior, and 
in colour it is much richer in the lovely glow¬ 
ing rose-pink. Given good cultivation, the 
trails of blossom are of immense size, contain¬ 
ing sometimes as many as fifty buds and blos¬ 
soms, and are upwards oR^ foot in length. 

Digitized by (jO glC 


These Roses are now largely grown in pots, 
and really elegant objects they become when 
well established. It, is rather unusual for 
these Roses to flower as late as they arc doing 
this year, for even at the Royal Horticultural 
Hall, on October 1st last,,* some beautiful 
sprays were seen. The ordinary flowering 
period of Lady Gay is about the same as that 
of Dorothy Perkins—namely, about July 18th 
—continuing well into August, with a few' 
blossoms even into September. As a crimson 
companion to them, Hiawatha is excellent, 
and we shall, doubtless, have a white Dorothy 
Perkins next season, for we have heard of one 
or two instances where it lias sported white. 

No opportunity should be lost of growing 


advise you to look out for them in March. 

I Any growths over 2 feet now may be shor¬ 
tened back at once to that height. Any of 
! the Roses named in the list as given in our 
I issue of November 23rd, p. 511, would be 
suitable, and we can recommend them to you 
with every confidence.] 

Roses for conservatory wall.-Many thanks for 
i previous information, which I have always found very 
I beneficial to me. Would you oblige me by giving me 
the name of four good Roses to put on a wall of a 
I conservatory? I should like to get them in four 
, colours—red, white, yellow, and pink. The conserva¬ 
tory faces south-east. 1 should like to have them so 
that they would stand pruning.—R. A. 

, [You can make a selection from the follow- 
ing:— Red: Richmond. Liberty, and Lady 
Battersea. II hUi.: I^'iphetos, Kaiserin 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAI6N 












536 


December 7, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Augusta Victoria, and The Bride. Yellow: 
Perle des Jardins, Mine. Ravary, and Mme. 
Iloste. Pink: Mme. Abel Cbatenay, Caro¬ 
line Testonfc, Catherine Mermet, and Dean 
Hole.] 

Rose Marquise de Sinety in the forcing- 
house. —This Rose will become popular as a 
forced flower. The colour is a deep orange, 
with bronzy-red suffusion, a shade that can¬ 
not fail to catch the eye even among the 
numerous richly-tinted Hybrid Teas that are 
now available. These Hybrid Teas will en¬ 
tirely supersede the true Teas as forced 
flowers, their great value lying in the erect 
stems which display the blossoms so beauti¬ 
fully. This variety is no exception, and, even 
if it had a weak stem, I imagine it would bo 
in demand for its colour alone. The growth 
is thick and strong. Outdoors its one fault 
seems to be a tendency to bleach in the sun. 
Jf it would but maintain the glorious colour 
of the buds, what a fine Rose it would lie !— 
Rosa. 

CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

THE CRYSTAL PALACE SHOW. 

The exhibition of the National Chrysanthe¬ 
mum Society, held on the 6th ult., was in 
many ways an advance upon several that have 
been held within recent years. It was more 
extensive, and the classes generally seemed 
better filled. A few of the exhibits were 
really excellent, and, of course, many quite 
commonplace. If, for example, we took away 
the blooms in about half a dozen of the lead¬ 
ing classes, such as the forty-eight Japanese 
and the thirty-six incurved, and again the 
two magnificent groups of Messrs N. Davis 
and H. J. Jones, there was not a great deal 
to strike one. These groups were not only . 
arranged with consummate taste, but the 
flowers employed were well-grown examples 
of leading new kinds. The first-named ex¬ 
hibitor used brighter-coloured foliage, as well 
as more tints in the blooms, than the lattcy; 
both, however, were especially attractive. 
Chrysanthemum blooms in vases arc not so 
imposing, nor do they seem so interesting to 
the real lover of the flower as do the large 
classes, such as the four dozen distinct kinds. 
In vases there is eimplv a repetition of a few 
of the very largest varieties; hut in the class 
for forty-eight blooms one gets the leading 
forms, new as well as old. In this case the 
competition was exceedingly keen, and the 
first three stands were, to a looker-on, so 
nearly equal that it must have been difficult 
work for the judges to find any difference. 
Perhaps the finest individual bloom in the 
whole show was a flower of the variety Lady 
Talbot. It certainly was the most admired 
specimen, and measured 8 inches across and 
11 inches deep. The form and colour were 
charming. It is an Australian variety of the 
Japanese type, and one that any amateur 
may grow well. Besides this, exceptionally 
good blooms were noted of F. S. Vallis. Mrs. 
A. T. Miller, Mrs. Norman Davis, J. H. Sils 
bury. Bessie Godfrey, Reginald Vallis. Mrs. 
W. Knox, W. Beadle, Magnificent, Mrs. W. 
Mileham, Algernon Davis, and Duchess of 
Sutherland—all, be it noted, excepting two, 
of English origin. It. may, therefore, be 
safely stated we need not- go abroad for the 
best of new sorts. In fact, the only novelty 
in the Japanese on this occasion to come up 
to our present standard of show flowers was 
named G. Mileham, 1908. I saw this opening 
its blossoms a short time hack, and thought it 
promising. It is a large, full, and handsome 
flower, of incurving type, the florets being 
wide and striking in size; colour, primrose- 
yellow. 

Incurved of the close, rounded type were 
very fine at this show. Admittedly, Mr. 
Higgs put up as grand a collection as lias 
over been seen. They were large and even in 
build, smooth in finish, and highly coloured. 

A few of the leading varieties were : Butter¬ 
cup, Duchess of Fife, Frnuk Trestian, Mrs. G. 
Denver. Hanwell Glory, Romance, Emblemo 
Poitevine, Frank Hammond, Daisy Southara 
(a splendid new sort, of a rich deep yellow 
colour), W. J. Higgs (a new one of a cinna¬ 
mon shade). Mrs. F. Judson, and Lady Isabel. 

A capital now kind, named Clara Wells, re¬ 
ceived a certificate of merit. The colour of 

Digitized by 'glC 


this is a light fawn or buff shade. It is 
strange that these incurved flowers are 
neglected. They always attract attention, 
and the growing of them, especially for ex¬ 
hibition, is meet interesting. I thought the 
singles generally very poor. Last year 
they were the rage, and certificates were 
awarded to sorts not worthy of the honour. 
To mv mind, the starry, ill-shapen forms arc 
not so desirable as the well-rounded kinds, 
such as the well-known Miss Mary Anderson, 
an ideal single. Evidently the judges thought 
so, too, for a vase of it and its yellow sport, 
Miss Annie Holden, won for the exhibitor 
the first prize in a keenly contested class. 
This does not say much for the newer kinds, 
so many of which are inferior to the above 
when growing on the plant. Edith Pagrain 
(pink) is a fine type of the larger-flowered 
single. This and its sport, named Bronze 
Pagram, are grand for all sorts of decoration. 

1 noticed several first-rate decorative 
Chrysanthemums, not big enough for show 
blooms, but. in shape and colour useful for 
general purposes. Raisers are doing a great 
dear in this direction, as they probably an¬ 
ticipate the time when the gigantic flowers 
will not be. the leading phase of culture. Mrs. 
Wakefield and Clara Vernum, both welcomo 
additions, have already been described in 
Gardening Illustrated. Freda Bedford, 
on this occasion awarded a certificate, is a 
lovely shade of amber or fawn, bright and 
striking. Felton’s Favourite and Money¬ 
maker are two good whites. Other forms, 
such as the Anemones and Pompons, seem to 
be losing caste, and classes for them may 
just ns well be left, out of an important, ex¬ 
hibition. H. S. 

GROWING CHRYSANTHEMUMS FOR 
EXHIBITION. 

For the last few years my Chrysanthemums have 
Iteen so tall that much disappointment has resulted, 
inasmuch as I am unable to comfortably attend to 
those at the hack of the group. I give the height of 
a few: Reginald Vallis, 9 feet.; Sidney l’enford. 
In feet; J. H. Hilshuryy? feet,; T. 8. Vallis. 7 feet, 
and the shortest: Oakland Belle, 4 feet. From the 
above you will notice how difficult it is to stage tall 
plants in a low greenhouse (span-roof) like mine, 
which is 10 feet high, 15 feet wide, and 30 feet long. 
The sides are r 4 feet, high, so the full from 10 feet to 

feet is fairly sharp, and does not allow of many 
tall plants standing at the sides. All plants of any 
height have to be staged in the middle of the house, 
and when they are so arranged they hide one another. 
If you could suggest a plan.to enable me to grow 
shorter plants from which I could get exhibition 
blooms, 1 should he very grateful. My system of cul¬ 
ture is hardy in the extreme, so ns to have sturdy 
plants. The cuttings are struck in a cold-frame, and 
when rooted arc almost grown outside. The cuttings 
of the above varieties were put Jh in the last week of 
December. 1 was thinking of growing my plants in 
7-inch pots. When I mentioned this to my employer, 
lie said that the plants might carry two big blooms. 
—Never Despair, Cheshire. 

[Your suggestion at the end of your query 
is an excellent one, and vour best way out of 
a difficulty. But as you want large exhibi¬ 
tion blooms, it is important that you should 
allow each plant to perfect only one flower. 
This is one of the most interesting ways of 
cultivating Chrysanthemums, and a system 
which is likely to be extended. It practi¬ 
cally does away with tall, ungainly plants, 
and. to our knowledge, some of the finest 
blooms that have been exhibited at. the Lon¬ 
don shows this year were obtained by this 
method. In fact, admittedly the grandest 
flower of any variety seen this autumn was 
a specimen of Lady Talbot at the Crystal 
Palace. This bloom resulted by rooting the 
cutting in February, and growing the plant 
to one stem, finally growing the same in a 
pot 8 inches in diameter. We would,there¬ 
fore, advise you to defer starting with the 
cuttings until the beginning of. February; 
at this period there is generally an abundant 
supply of all kinds, provided, of course, the 
old stools have been cared for. As you must 
have grown your plants well, it will be un¬ 
necessary to go into such details as soil, or 
to ask you to differ in your manner of cul¬ 
tivating sturdy plants from the first. A nice 
open position and plenty of room between 
each plant are items worth attention, but 
the greatest care, in our opinion, is in the 
selection of varieties and their individual 
treatment. The following is a list of three 
dozen Japanese kinds, probably enough for 
your purpose. It comprises, with few ex¬ 
ceptions—and these very tall-growing ones— 


the leading varieties, omitting only those 
that are quite new and somewhat expensive: 
Algernon Davis, Beatrice May, Bessie God¬ 
frey, British Empire, Chrysantbemiste Mon- 
tigny, Eleanor Duchess of Northumberland, 
Henry Perkins, J. H. Silsbury, Lady Con¬ 
yers, Lady Talbot, Lord Ludlow, Mme. G. 
Rivol, Mme. P. Radaclli, Magnificent, Mar¬ 
quise V. Venosta. Miss Dorothy Oliver, Miss 
Elsie Fulton, Miss M. Ware, Miss O. Miller, 
Mr. F. S. Vallis, Mrs. A. T. Miller, Mrs. 
Barkley, Mrs. C. Beckett, Mrs. F. W. Vallis. 
Mrs. G. Mileham, Mrs. J. Hardaway, Mrs. 
J. Dunn, Mrs. Norman Davis, Mrs. William 
Knox, Norman Davis, Reginald Vallis, Viola. 
W. Duckham. W. Jinks, W. A. Etherington. 
and W. Bendle. Henry Perkins, Mme. G. 
Rivol, and Mme. P. Radaelli take a long 
time to develop their blooms, or, rather, the 
flower buds do not appear until comparatively 
late in the season. In these instances, there, 
retain the break bud—that is, the first that 
comes. In the case of the greater number of 
varieties, select the first one after the break 
bud. With the varieties British Empire and 
W. A. Etherington, a later bud would be 
the better. We would advise you to employ 
even a size larger than the 7-inch pots for 
the strongest-growing plants. This added 
root-room would certainly tell in favour of 
big blooms. Another system which has 
something to recommend it is the growing of 
from two to three plants in larger-sized pots, 
from late-rooted cuttings, and adhering to 
one stem for each. Some of the larger ex¬ 
hibitors grow many in this way in their en¬ 
deavour to obtain flowers just a trifle larger 
than those of their opponents.] 


SOME NEW EARLY CHRYSAN¬ 
THEMUMS. 

M. Nonix, of Paris, has, during the past few 
years, materially assisted to enlarge the list 
of earlv-flowering Chrysanthemums. I have 
just paid a visit to one of our trade-growers, 
and among some hundreds of varieties old 
and new have been interested in looking over 
these seedlings of M. Nonin’s. Most of them 
nre dwarf. The blooms are really miniature 
Japanese, and the plants in some cases are 
so free-flowering that slight disbudding is 
really desirable. Except where mentioned, 
the average height is under 2 feet, and the 
majority are September bloomers. 

Bouquet Rose.—A charming little flower. Colour 
bright roue, centre golden. 

Carmen.—T o get the best colour, disbud and take 
the terminals. Neatly built blooms of a pretty, rich 
reddish-crimson. 

Lumineux — This is a nicely-formed flower. Colour 
fiery reddish-crimson, reverse golden. 

Roi DES Jaenes.—R ather large blooms. Plant prows 
about 3 feet high. Very free. Colour pure golden- 
yellow. 

Eden. — Colour bright rosy-pink. Height, about 
2 J feet. 

Ideal. — Rather taller than the preceding. An 
October variety. Rosy-white. 

Tonkin.—A very neat little flower. Golden orange- 
bronze, shaded carmine. 

Mignon.—R ather stiff stems. Colour of flowers 
rosy-mauve. 

Mireii.i.e.—F lowers oX good size. Colour bright 
mauve, shaded rose. 

Hep.mine. —Another good-sized, neatly-built flower. 
Sturdy plant. Colour pure white. 

Vbsuvk.—C rimson-chestnut. 

Diane.—C reamy-white. Height. 3 feet. 

Vesise.—G olden-salmon, reverse shaded gold. 

C. H. P. 


NOTES AND REPLIES . 

Chrysanthemum Caprice de Printemps. 

—This is a valuable variety to grow for 
flowering at the end of October and early in 
November. If propagated early in March, 
and grown in bush form, fine, sturdy 
examples, from 2£ feet to 3 feet in height, 
carrying from two to three dozen blooms, 
may be had by the time named above. Tin* 
colour of the blooms is rich amaranth, the 
petals being edged and tipped with silver, 
which render them very striking and attrac¬ 
tive. It is not a new variety, hut at the 
same time, it is, I think, not widely grown, 
and the object in penning this note is to draw 
attention to it.—A. W. 


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Diversity of Illinois at 

URBANA-CHAMPAI6N 



December 7, 1007 


GA11D PAYING ILL VST RATED. 


537 



ORCHIDS. 

HABENARIA PUSILLA. 
Habenaria purilla, mure commonly known j 
t^s H. militaris, is a native of Cochin China, ' 
and for many years after its introduction was 
rare in gardens. It is nearly twenty years 
ago that, after repeated failures, a few plants 
were induced to grow in one of the warm 
house** at Rurford Lodge, nnd ever ?,ince 
that time no difficulty has hcen experienced i 
in successfully growing this little gem. For¬ 
tunately, in more recent years, some gar¬ 
deners have also found that when its require¬ 
ments are thoroughly understood, this beauti¬ 
ful species is not a difficult plant to manage, 
therefore it deserves to he more generallv i 
cultivated, as. when in bloom, the plants are 
useful for almost, any kind of indoor decora- I 
tion. The flowers are useful for cutting, and 
are extremely effective by artificial light, 
especially when arranged with small Ferns, 
etc. 

H. Pl'SiLLA is a terrestrial, tuberous rooted, 
deciduous Orchid. The leafy flower-stems 
vary in height from G inches to 112 inches, and 
are produced from the centre of the growth. 
The flowers are pro¬ 
duced in apical clus¬ 
ters, and are of a 
brilliant cinnabar- 
scarlet, with greenish 
spurs. By tne time 
tliis note appears, the 
flowering season will 
be over, and the foli¬ 
age have changed its 
colour. Water at the 
root. must, now be 
gradually diminished 
until the leaves and 
stem have completely 
died down. It is not. 
advisable to cut off 
the stem when decay¬ 
ing, hut, if left, alone, 
it will naturally fall 
away. From then un¬ 
til March is the rest¬ 
ing period, and great 
care is necessary to 
prevent the tubers 
from decaying, also 
to keep them in a 
sufficiently plum p 
condition to allow of 
their starting strong¬ 
ly into growth at the 
proper season. Now 
that the stems are 
decaying, place the 
plants on a dry shelf 
well up to the roof 
glass in the warmest 
house, and let them 

have all the sunshine Ilabonaria pusilla 

possible, which will 8ir Trevor 

assist to ripen the 
newly-formed tubers. 

A position which is usually set apart for the I 
deciduous Calanthes while at rest will suit i 
them admirably. While the plants are in a , 
dormant state, carefully look over them once 
or twice every week, and when the surface 
of the compost appears to he dust-dry, it 
should be lightly sprinkled with tepid rain- , 
water, using the fine sprayer, or a watering- 
can with a fine rose. 

Provided the plants have been properly at¬ 
tended to during the resting season, they will 
commence to grow about the beginning of 
March, when they should be carefully turned i 
out of their pots; and in doing this it will hi* 
found the original tuber will have decayed, ' 
which appears to be quite natural to the 
plant, and one or more new tubers will be 
found clinging firmly to the sides of the pot 
or among the drainage. These should be 
gently detached, and repotted singly into I 
small pots. The new tubers will be about , 
2 inches or 3 inches in length, and the pots ! 
should be an inch or two deeper, those gene¬ 
rally termed long thumbs being the most suit¬ 
able. In draining, place a hollow piece of 
crock over the hole at the bottom, then place 
the tuber in the centre or the pot, keeping 
the point of it about y«l>an_dneh bel" 
rim. thepi |filjl; |itp ar|o '* 


crocks to three parts of its length; over the 
crocks place a thin layer of rough Sphagnum 
Moss, and fill up with the following compost, 
which should just cover the top of the tuber : 
One-half should consist of good, fibrous peat 
and loam in equal proportions, the other half 
of chopped Sphagnum Moss and finely-broken 
crocks and a moderate quantity of coarse 
silver sand, mixing the whole well together, 
and potting moderately firm. When the pot 
ting is completed, sprinkle the surface of the 
soil lightly with tepid rain-water, ami place 
the plants on the shady side of the East In¬ 
dian house or ordinary plant-stove, where the 
temperature is hot and moist, the position 
afforded them being one as near to the roof 
glass as possible. This is an important point 
in their cultivation, ns, if placed upon an 
ordinary stage, away from the light, the 
stems become drawn and the flower-spikes 
weak. Until the new growths have fairly 
started, and a few roots are seen on the sur¬ 
face, the compost must, be merely sprinkled 
with a fine rosed watering can. As growth ad¬ 
vances the quantity of water should he gra¬ 
dually increased, and, when in vigorous 
growth, the plant may have an alrtiost un¬ 
limited supply. During bright summer 


(Hjn. H. militaris). From a photograph in 
Lawrence’s garden at Burford Lodge. 


ut butfmn-inch bclflw the 
outifc tlu^tVer,{ll] 0an 


weather, well syringing the under side of the 
foliage is very beneficial, as it greatly assists 
healthy growth, and prevents insect pests in¬ 
juring the foliage. Care must be taken 
during the growing season to keep the plants 
well shaded from strong, direct sunshine. 

DENDROBIUM NOBILE. 

This Dendrobium, grown in nearly every 
garden where indoor plants are cultivated, 
is so well known that a description is need¬ 
less. In addition to the type, there are 
several distinct varieties which are well wortli 
adding to a collection. The following may 
he mentioned: —D. n. nobilius, flowers of 
large size, and very rich in colour; D. n. 
Amesianum, with white sepals and petals, 
and a rich maroon centre to the labellum ; 
D. n. Balliauum. fvcpnls and petals whitish, 
with a faint pink blush, centre of lip rose- 
pink ; and the white D. n. virginale. To 
these may be added D. n. eiegans, D. n. 
Cypheri, D. n. Sanderianuni, D. n. Cooksoni, 
1). n. Dnrmanianum, etc. Where such a col¬ 
lection is grown, a succession of bloom may 
easily be maintained for a very long time, 
and where cut. flowers are required and the 
plants are needed for general decoration, 


there are few other Orchids that can excel 
D. nobile and its distinct varieties. When 
well grown, the plants will produce a large 
number of flowers, which will remain in good 
condition on the plants for three or four 
weeks, and will stand in water, when cut, 
for a week or more. Added to this, the 
plants, while in bloom, will take no harm, if 
kept, in a moderately warm room in the 
dwelling house. At the present time those 
plants that, finished their growth early in tin* 
season arc* showing their Mower buds. Such 
plants may now be brought from the cooler 
structures iu which they have been resting, 
and placed in a slightly warmer house. Very 
little or no water should be given the plants, 
unless the pseudo-bulbs show signs of shrivel¬ 
ling. As the buds increase in size and the 
flowers are visible, a regular supply of water 
may he given, but only enough to assist the 
flowers to develop and prevent, undue shrink 
age of the flowering growths. Those plants 
that finished their grow th later may be left, in 
the cooler division- -that is to say, an ordi¬ 
nary greenhouse temperature until their 
flower-buds appear, when they, too, may l>e 
brought into a gentle heat, with a view to 
their opening. W. 


FERNS. 

GROWING FERNS IN POTS. 

That many plant-lovers still fail in the culture 
of Ferns in pots is a fact that cannot be gain 
said, and success in this matter, simple as it 
is, is only to be attained by carefully study¬ 
ing the wants of the plants and their indi¬ 
vidual peculiarities. Although some thrive 
best in shade and with abundant moisture, 
others prefer the brightest light, and flourish 
only oil drv walls and chalky rocks, while a 
third class delights and grows luxuriantly in 
the close confinement of a Fern-case. For 
pot culture the most effective Ferns are the 
Adiantums, some of the Aspleniums, Blecli- 
nums, Cyrtomiums, Davallias. Lastreas, 
Lomarias, Nephrodiums, Ncphrolepis, Poly- 
podiunis, Polystichums, Pteris, and Wood- 
wardias. As regards soil, there must be 
many exceptions to any rule, but the majority 
of Ferns like a compost formed of fibrous 
peat, good loam, and sharp coarse sand in 
equal parts, the whole compost chopped or 
broken up according to the size of the pots 
used ; hut in no ease should this material be 
passed through a sieve. Though it is not 
absolutely necessary, if good leaf-mould is 
procurable, an equal portion added to the 
potting material first named will prove of 
great benefit to the plants, especially if rapid 
growth be the object in view. The pots 
should be well drained, for although Ferns 
are fond of moisture, nothing is more in¬ 
jurious to them than stagnant water. Dry, 
clean pots should be used. If new, the pots 
should be well soaked in water, and then well 
dried before the plants are put into them. 
If the pots are wet or dirty when used, it will 
be found impossible—when next the plants 
are repotted—to remove them from the 
pots w ithout breaking a quantity of the roots 
through the soil adhering to the sides. What¬ 
ever the sizes of the plants may be. care must 
he taken not to put them into too large pots. 
Even in the case of plants intended for 
specimens, it is better to pot them often than 
to put a small plant into a large pot; such a 
course often ends in failure. Ferns, al¬ 
though requiring to be potted rather firmly, 
dislike hard potting. We have seen the soil 
filled up level with the rim of the pot. but 
that is a bad plan ; the top of the soil should 
always he placed sufficiently low to allow 
room for a good supply of water. For in¬ 
stance, in a 4}-inch pot leave inch of space 
for water, and increase the space slightly 
at each potting, according to the larger sizes 
of the pots used. 

In order to grow’ Ferns quickly, small 
plants require repotting several times during 
the season, but for larger ones a shift once 
a year will he found quite sufficient. The 
best time for that operation is towards the 
middle of February, when starting into 
growth, after which time the sooner it is 
done the better. 1 elr rlM - jiartly developed 
fronds i wmthl suffer from root disturbance. 
Sufficient ^wate'r to sanirate-the -old Hall of 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 







538 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


TiECEMBEH 7, 1907 


earth and the new soil should be given gently, 
soon after the plants are put into their new 
pots, and they should not be watered again 
until they require it. Many make a serious 
mistake In giving a little water every day. 
By so doing, the surface of the soil is kept 
damp, while below it is dry, and, the roots 
being principally at the. bottom, the fronds 
begin to shrivel and die one after another, 
the cultivator little suspecting drought at 
the roots to be the cause of the evil. 


INDOOR PLANTS. 


CAMELLIAS LOSING THEIR BUDS. 

It is by no means uncommon for Camellias 
to cast a considerable portion of their buds 
during the winter months. The bud that re¬ 
mains on the plant until the end of January 
is practically safe, and seldom fails to ex¬ 
pand. It. is in the dark months of December 
and January that bud dropping is most likely 
to cause annoyance. Bud dropping in Ca¬ 
mellias may l>e traced to various causes. A 
weakness of constitution induced by deficient 
root-action is the most prolific source of bud- 
casting. Weakly specimens frequently set a 
large number of buds, and if alL of them are 
allowed to remain, the probabilities are that 
nearly or quite all will fall during the dull 
months. Better far thin the buds as soon 
as they are set, leaving just as many as the 
plants ean deal with, than lose them all later 
on. The eye of the grower will be able to 
judge within a little what number of blooms 
a plant is capable of bringing to perfection. 
If the collection were gone over in this way 
early in the autumn, not only would bud¬ 
dropping be in a great measure lessened, but 
the individual blooms would come finer. 
From November till the end of January it is 
not safe to maintain a higher night- tempera 
ture than 4. r > degs., with a rise of 
5 degs. in the day-time. Especially dur¬ 
ing periods of hard frost, with little or 
no sunshine, must artificial heat be carefully 
applied. If the atmosphere of the house gets 
very dry many of the buds will certainly fall. 
We have seen them lie on the soil as thick as 
hail, merely through the house being some¬ 
what overheated on frosty nights. Far better 
let the temperature drop to within several 
degrees of freezing-point in a time of hard, 
protracted frost, limn run the risk of seri¬ 
ously diminishing the crop of bloom. Ca¬ 
mellias are naturally so hardy-that one need 
never fear localise the thermometer marks 
freezing point towards the morning. Natur¬ 
ally, when other things of more tender char¬ 
acter are grown with them, such a low tem¬ 
perature would not do, but Camellias should 
never be wintered with plants that demand 
much warmth. Camellias will remain for 
years in good condition, retaining their foli¬ 
age and blooming with regularity and free¬ 
dom without change. When, however, they 
come into such a root-bound state, they re¬ 
quire, even during the winter season, a con¬ 
siderable amount of moisture at the roots. 
The mass of roots gradually pushes up the 
soil until there is very much less space be¬ 
tween it and the rim of the pot than when 
the plant was put into it. The consequence 
is that the hall of soil is apt to be deficient in 
moisture, and the buds are thus imperfectly 
nourished. The ill effects of this will gener¬ 
ally not be apparent until the pipes have 
been made hot to keep out frost, and then 
strong specimens, to all appearance in the 
finest condition, will cast- their buds whole¬ 
sale. The better budded the plant, the worse 
will its case be under such circumstances. 
Plants with heads disproportionate to the 
size of the pots should every now and then 
get an extra allowance of water. Not infre¬ 
quently the source of injury might he traced 
further back to that period when the plants 
are taking their annual outing in the open 
air. Rainy weather is apt to be deceptive as 
regards the amount of moisture that plants 
in pots get. For days together rain may fall 
that will keep the foliage and surface-soil 
quite wet, and yet not be heavy enough to 
penetrate the dense foliage in sufficient quan¬ 
tity to thoroughly moisten the compost. If 
this occurs, as is frequently the case in Sep 
lumber, when the/fiuas^re swjdllbjip, they 

Digitized b 


wilL be sure to sustain a check, which often 
will not be perceived until winter is far ad¬ 
vanced. When there are plants in pots of 
considerable dimensions, it is well to tap 
them smartly with the knuckles now and 
then. If they give out the slightest ringing 
sound, they must at once be thoroughly- 
soaked, even though the surface-soil is quite 
wet. 

When bud dropping is caused through de¬ 
fective root-action, this must in some way he 
restored. Fresh drainage and a clean pot 
will frequently do all that, is necessary, but if 
the soil looks close and the roots are much 
discoloured, something more than this will 
have to be done. When the compost, consists 
mainly of peat., it is not often that it gets 
close ; but if loam is the principal ingredient 
a too liberal use of the water-can will soon 
bring it into a sour condition. If this he the 
ease as much of the old soil as possible must 
be removed, the plant, replaced in a c lean pot 
of the same size, employing fine sandy peat 
in place of the material that was taken away. 


forms a good succession to these retarded 
bulbs. Another Lilium which is very amen¬ 
able to this refrigerating process is L. 6pe^ 
ciosum, represented by several varieties* 
whose flowers vary in colour from white to 
carmine. The Tiger Lily, too, is very effect 
tive in a group during the winter, and so is 
L. auratum ; but this last cannot be depended 
upon so well as the others, for many of 
them often fail to develop in a satisfactory 
manner. Spirteaa and Lily of the Valley are 
very easy to retard, while Azalea mollis needs 
very careful treatment ; but it is so striking 
when in flower at thin season that a little 
extra attention is well repaid.—X. 


r 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Conns on Achimenes shoots. -Is the forming 
of corms on the Achimenes common? What is the 
cause? Can the corms be grown? I have seven 
plants that are producing conns on the shoots. They 
are all plants that were planted late in the season. 
None of the plants bloomed freely. I have grown 
Achimenes for years, and they have all bloomed 
freely, but never produced corms before. — Grack 
Stone. 

[We have liefore now met with Achimenes 
that, have produced corms on the stems, but 
such an occurrence is by no moans common. 
In every case that we have seen it has re¬ 
sulted from some check or unusual course of 
treatment, but always at the expense of blos¬ 
soms. If the corms are potted late, or the 
growing plants kept in a structure with a 
great amount of atmospheric moisture, this 
state of things is more likely to happen.] 

Cineraria and Primula foliage curling.—I 

will be very much obliged by your opinion on the 
Cineraria and Primula leaves enclosed. The plants 
have been raised here from seed brought on in frames, 
and since putting into their flowering-pots have been 
brought into the greenhouse, and after a previous 
most healthy appearance are now, in a number of 
cases, curling up and discolouring as per specimens 
herewith. The grcenliou.se is quite a new one, 20 feet 
by 10 feet by 10 feet, and is warmed up to 55 degs., 
about. The water for them is brought from the 
gutters by iron pipes (new) into a galvanised iron 
tank, also new, in the greenhouse. Do you think the 
water may be injurious?—J. S. Radi.ett. 

[It is, of course, impossible to state posi¬ 
tively the cause of your plants becoming dis¬ 
figured in the way of the enclosed leaves, hut 
appearances point to the atmosphere of the 
house being too hot and»dry, while the roots 
have also, most probably, suffered from want 
of water. Have you been using any artificial 
manure or fumigating the bouse when the 
foliage has been damp? Either of these 
would cause the trouble you mention. We 
do not think that the water from a galvanised 
iron tank will have any ill effects—at least, 
we recently fixed a new one, and nothing in 
the house has shown any signs of injury.] 
Flowers out of season.— A few years since 
it would have been looked upon as an utter 
impossibility to obtain flowering plants of 
several species of Liliums, Spiraeas, Azalea 
mollis, Lily-of-the-Valley, etc., during the 
autumn and early winter months; but now, 
owing to the custom that prevails of retarding 
these different subjects by putting them early 
in the year, while absolutely dormant, into 
large refrigerators, they may be had in bloom 
at almost any time. This custom seems 
greatly on the increase, and groups of flower¬ 
ing plants that have been so treated may be 
often seen at the different autumn shows, 
while in the florists’ shops of London (espe¬ 
cially in those of a superior class) numerous 
examples of various subjects, that would, in 
the ordinary course of events, have flowered 
in the preceding spring, may be met with 
many months later. The splendid examples 
of the white Trumpet Lily (Lilium longi- 
florum) are in nearly all cases the product of 
bulbs sent last, autumn from Japan, and which 
were kept in a state of absolute rest till about 
three months ago, as this is the time needed 
to get them into flower from the starting 
period. The Bermuda-grown Lilium Harrisi, 
which reaches here about the end of July, 


ROOM AND WINDOW. 

WINDOW PLANTS IN WINTER. 

It is not an easy matter to keep plants 
iu healtli in the window of an ordinary 
London sitting-room in the winter, par 
tieularly if the neighbourhood is a very 
crowded or smoky one. Still, it is 

by no means impossible—-at. least, with a 
suitable choice of subjects; and the great 
secret is constant and regular attention and 
care, particularly in watering. The room 
ought to he neither too hot nor very cold. If 
a strong fire is kept constantly burning, and 
much gas is used as well, the plants will dry 
very rapidly, and, unless very carefully and 
rather freely watered, will suffer seriously. 
Again, if there is much traffic in the room, 
the foliage will lieeome covered with dust, 
which will choke the pores and prevent the 
leaves performing their functions properly. 
This must be frequently removed by careful 
sponging of the leaves with tepid water, and, 
if very dirty, a little soap also, and on this 
account plants with smooth leaves that can he 
readily cleansed in this way should be pre¬ 
ferred, and will thrive best. Again, the 
plants ought always to be either removed 
from the room, or at any ratel>e covered with 
a newspaper or light cloth, while the room is 
being swept and dusted, and they should also 
be removed, or at least stood down on the 
floor, as soon as the gas is lit in the evening. 
The less gas burnt in the room the better, 
and the plants will be round to thrive vastly 
better if only oil-lamps are employed. 'I'llrough 
draughts are very injurious to plants of all 
kinds ; hence, whenever the window is opened 
it should be at the top, not the bottom. On 
frosty nights a double thickness of newspaper 
laid over the plants and between them and the 
glass will render them comparatively safe; 
but if the frost is very severe, they ought to 
be removed farther into the room, placing 
them by preference on a table or stand, and 
not on the floor, where there is generally a 
cold draught-, and hard frost often strikes 
through the flooring first. In the spring and 
early summer, while in active growth, most 
plants are benefited by being occasionally, 
even daily, lightly sprinkled overhead with 
a very fine-rosed can or small syringe, or even 
a brush dipped in water will do. As regards 
Watering, the best general rule is to give 
none till the soil is nearly dry and the pot 
rings hollow when rapped; then give a 
thorough supply ; hut when in full growth and 
bloom, most things may be kept almost con¬ 
stantly moist at the root, though with a few 
exceptions, such as Spiraeas, Arum Lilies, and 
the Umbrella-Grass, or Cyperus, plants ought 
never to stand in saucers of water for more 
than a few minutes. When at rest- in the 
winter, keep everything comparatively dry, 
but evergreen subjects need more moisture 
even then than those of a deciduous nature. 
A little manurial stimulant should be given 
occasionally, but only while plants are in full 
growth and bloom, and not for some time 
after being repotted. Just enough good 
guano to colour the water once & fortnight is 
a good thing, or a pinch of sulphate of am¬ 
monia mav be added to the water (] oz. to 
the gallon" is the right strength) every three 
weeks during the summer; for Ferns ami 
foliage plants nitrate of soda is better. Rain¬ 
water is preferable to that from the mains, 
and if slightly sooty, so much the better. In¬ 
sects must be kept down by means of a little 
Tobacco-powder, by fumigation, or by dip¬ 
ping in weak Tobacco-water or in an infu¬ 
sion of Quassia chips with a little soft soap. 





December 7, 1907 GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 539 

OUTDOOR PLANTS* LILIUM HANSONI. wel1 in au y B" oc * garden soil although the 

T t • i , , . . , . addition of a little peat or leaf-soil is appre- 

- Lovers of the Lily-and their name is legion ciated and advantageous. It is not a mois- 

A BEAUTIFUL AND EFFECTIVE —who do not own Hanson’s Lily should not t U re-lover, but it adapts itself wonderfully 

; a H° w another planting season to pass with- a moister soil than is generally considered 
out securing tins beautiful plant, which is one the for this species, and, in very drv 

The greater Grasses have rarely taken an i of the best and most easily cultivated of all gardens, a few good soakings of pure water 
effective place in our gardens, though some the early-flowering Lilies, while its mien nnd before and while it is in bloom will be 
have claims to it. The greatest interest ever its flowers all commend it to our admiration, found trouble well rewarded bv increased 
taken in the introduction of a Grass was It was first discovered as long ago as 1860, vigour and finer and more lasting blooms, 
when the Pampas was introduced by David in Japan, by Maximowicz, but it was not Like most other Lilies, it ought to be 
Moore, of Ciasnevin. The way it was grown bloomed in this country for many years after planted as early os its bulbs can he pro- 
at. first led to most charming effects here and that time, although introduced a short time cured, and while about 3 inches deep will 
there, especially in the milder districts, but after its discovery. Probably, the first bulbs «erv<‘, I prefer planting a little deeper up 
it is not really hardy in our bleak and inland were not in good condition, as it is not a Lily to 5 inches or 6 inches, indeed. It is prefer- 

districts, and its value is lessened, and even which is either troublesome to establish or able with newly-purchased Lilies to put a 

in the south it flowers very late—only in shy in its blooming. Good bulbs will gener- little sharp sand about the bulbs, and L. 
time for the autumn storms, that often dis- ally flower the year after planting, if of any llansoni will appreciate this attention as much 
figure it. Raisers, so far, have not found reasonable size, and it soon increases in size as any other. The bulb, which is a perennial 

any early variety; but a Grass which we and vigour when left undisturbed in a good one, is rather like that of the Martagon Lily, 

think even more valuable for gardens, be- situation and in proper soil. It is not quite I I have sometimes found that imported bulbs 
cause hardier and flowering at a season when I so imposing in stature as many of the other I have become slightly shrivelled before they 


gardens are in perfection, is Cortaderia eon- 
spicua, of which we submit a view of a very 
fine group in Mr. Beamish’s garden, at Ash¬ 
bourne, County Cork. The view is taken in 
the recent summer—if summer it could be I 
called—and the fact that it did so well in such 
a year proves its fitness for our climate. The 
plant is of easy culture, but gives much bet¬ 
ter results in free, rather deep, open soils. 
It flowers at about the same time as the Tri 
tomas and some of the most important gar¬ 
den plants, and where good effects arc sought 
it should never be left out. It will l>e noted 
in the illustration how fine is the effect of a 
group. _ 

Planting Hollyhocks (A. G. /».).—It would have | 
been better had you kept the plants under glass in a 
cold-frame until next March. Seeing, however, you 
have put them out, you had better leave them, but 
take off the covering of straw and put some light 
littery matter over the roots. They have been 
attacked by the disease which has lieen so fatal of re¬ 
cent years. 8ee reply to “ J. R. Morton and 
Clementina," in our issutf'ofTfoyemher 23r<I m/>17. 

gl£ 


Lilies, but its regulation height of 3 feet is 
frequently exceeded, especially if grown 
among low shrubs or herbaceous plants not 
too tall to prevent its flowers emerging from 
their foliage. It shows its character better, 
how'ever, if uncrowded by other plants, and 
in an open position its slender stems, clothed 
with narrow leaves, and bearing each from 
four to ten flowers, give greater pleasure than 
when crowded among other plants. These 
flowers arc of a beautiful golden-yellow, 
spotted with a shade best described as crim¬ 
son-maroon, and their reflexing petals, of 
great substance, reveal to advantage the 
beautiful form of the flowers and their colour¬ 
ing. It is, as already remarked, one of the 
most beautiful of the early-blooming Lilies, 
and in most seasons we can enjoy its flowers 
in June, although this year they were later, 
on account of the wet and cold spring and 
early summer. 

In its cultural needs it is one of the most 
easily satisfied of all Liliums. It will thrive 


arrive. In this ease it is desirable to put 
them in moist Moss or Cocoa-nut-fibre for a 
few days before planting, until the scales be¬ 
come plumper. If the scales are broken, they 
may be dressed with a little powdered char¬ 
coal. That this Lily is so little seen is a 
matter for regret, and its comparatively high 
price seems to be the only thing to account 
for its want of popularity. 

S. Arnott. 


Lawn, draining a (London, North ).—No benefit 
will result until you put a drain or two into your 
lawn. This you can do by using pipes or coarse 
rubble in the drains. In any case take off the turf 
12 inches wide in lines across the wet portion, and 
10 feet apart. Let - furrows then be thrown out 
18 inches deep, deepening at the farther ends to 
24 inches or so, as the furrows reach to the main 
drain, which is to receive them and carry the water 
away into a ditch, pond, or other place, which will 
enable it to run away. Either lay down in the Fur¬ 
rows 3-inch drain pipes, surrounding them with a 
little rubble, or else put in 4 inches of coarse rubble, 
on that lay pieces of turf upside down, then fill in 
CITV AC || | IMAIC AT 


Cortaderia conspicua (syn. Arundo conspicua at Ashbourne, near Cork. 




















540 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


December 7, 1907 


THE MOST BEAUTIFUL MIXED 
BORDER PLANTS. 

No one can desire less than ourselves to limit 
the variety of good plants of this sort, but 
a great deal depends upon whether a success¬ 
ful beginning is made, and the following is 
a selection of plants upon which growers 
can depend, and which can be successfully 
cultivated in most districts. It should be 
borne in mind that, restricted as this selection 
is, there are whole classes of important hardy 
plants not included in it—for example, many 
bulbs, alpine and rock plants, and, lastly, 
biennial plants and those which, like the 
Carnation and the double Rockets, require 
annual division or mul iplication for successful 
culture. Plants where there is any difficulty 
of culture, and such as the taller Polvgonums, 
too vigorous for garden or border culture, are 
also omitted. 

Some fine plants, like Cypripedium spccta- 
bile, are left out because the ordinary border 
has not the usual conditions in which they 
thrive : also various good alpine plants, some 
of which never look well or thrive except on 
the rock-garden. 

Acanthus spinosus 
Achillea Eupatorium 
Millefolium rosea 
• mongolica 

ptarmica fl.-pl. The Pearl 
Aconitum autumnale 
Napellus bicolor 
Alstrcemeria aurantiaca 
Anchusa italica (Dropmore var.) 

Opal 

Anemone alpina 

coronaria and vars. 
fulgens 

japonica Honorine Jobert 
- t , Queen Charlotte 
,, rosea 
patens 
Pulsatilla 
Robinsoniana 
sylvestris 

Anthericum Li lias tram and vars. 

Aquilegia chrysantha 
canadensis 
ccerulea 
jSkinneri 
Stuarti 

vulgaris and vars. 

Anneria cephalotes 

S and i flora 
ia echioidcs 
Aster acris 

A melius and vars. 
cordifolius in several forms 
horizontalis 
lie vis 

linariifolius 

Novte-Anglite and vars. 

Novi-Bolgii and vars. 

Shorti 
turbinellus 
versicolor 
Astilbe Davidi 
liocconia cordata 
Caltha palustris and vars. 

Campanula carpatica and vars. 
coltidi folia 

glomerata var. dahurica 

grandiflora (Platycodon) 

grandis 

lactiflora 

nobilis and vars. 

nersicifolia and vars. 

Van Houttei 

Cardamine pratensis fl.-pl. 

Ccntaurea montana and vars. 
ruthenica 

Centranthus ruber and vars. 

Chrysanthemum indicum, good outdoor kinds 
lati folium 

maximum and vars. 

Coreopsis grandiflora 
lanceolata 
Corqnilla varia 
Corydalis nobilis 
Delphiniums in var. 

Dicentra eximia 
Dielytra spectabilis 
Dodecatheon Meadia and vars. 

Doronicum in var. 

Echinops Ritro 
Epilobium album 

Digitized by 


Epilobium angusbifolium 
Fleischeri 

Epimedium macranthum 
pinnabum elegans 
Erigeron speciosus 
Eryngium alpinum 
amethystinum 
giganteum 
Olivierianum 
planum 

Funkia ovata a urea 
Sieboldi 

Gaillardias in var. 

Galega officinalis and var. 

Galtonia candicans 
Gaura Leindheimeri 
Gentiana asclopiadea 
Geranium armenuin 
Endressi 
grandiflorum 
ibericum 

sanguineum and vars. 

Geum coccineum fl.-pl. 

Heldreichi 

miniatum 

Gypsophila paniculata and p. fl.-pl. 
prostrata 

Helenium autumnale and vars. 
nudiflorum 
pumilum 

Helianthus he bi floras 
mollis 

multiflorus fl.-pl. 
rigidus var. Miss Mellish 
tomentasus 

Helleborus atro-rubens 
niger and vars. 
orientalis and vars. 

Hemerocallis disticha 11.-pi. 

Dr. Regel 

Dumortieri 

flava 

fulva 

graminea 

Heuchera sanguinea 
Iberis correiefolia 
Garrexiana 

sempervirens and vars. 

Incarvillea Delavayi 
Inula glandulosa 

Iris (rliizomatous kinds in var., especially Iris 
gcrmanica and varieties Bridesmaid, 
pallida and its variety dalmatica, 
Florentine, Gazelle, Madame Chereau, 
Queen of May, Vic tori ne, Chelles, 
aurea, Mrs. H. Darwin) 

Kniphofia in fine variety 
Lathyrus grandiflorus splendens 
latifolius and white var. 

Liatris pycnostachya 
spicata 

Liliuin (any species that thrive in a given 
place) 

Linaria dalmatica 
Linum flavum 
narbonnense 
perenne and vars. 

Lobelia splendens and its fine vars.* 

Lupinus arboreus 

polyphvllus and vars. 

Lychnis ch&lcedonica fl. -pi. 

Hnageana 

vespertina fl. -pi. alba 
Viscaria rubra pi. 

Lythrum Salicaria splendens 
Meconopsis cambrica 
Michauxia campanuloides 
Monarda didyma 

fistulosa and vars. 

Montbretias in variety 
(Enothera Fraseri . r 

fruticosa 
missouriensis 
speciosa 
tanaceti folia 
Youngi 

Onosma tauricum 
Orobus aureus 
c} T aneus 
lathyroides 
vernus 

Papaver nudicaule vars. 
orientale and vars. 


* These will not endure the winter in cold 6oils and 
inland districts, but their effect is so fine that the little 
trouble of carrying them safely through the winter is well 
worth taking. L. cardinalis is hardier than the splendens 
form. 


Papaver rupifragum 
Pceonia albiflora and many varieties 
anemonjeflora and vars. 
officinalis and vars. 
tenuifolia and t. fl.-pl. 
Pentstemon barbatus Torreyi 
procerus 

Phlomis fruticosa 
Herba-venfci 
Phlox canadensis 
divarieata 

herbaceous, in fine variety 
ovata 

setacea and vars. 
stellaris 

Pliysalis Alkekengi 
Franchetti 

Polemonium creruleum 
himalayanum 
reptans 
Richard soni 

Potentilla hybrids fl.-pl. 

Primula japonica 

Sieboldi and vars. 

Pyrethrum roseum and vars. 

uliginosum 
ltudbeckia Newmani 
Ranunculus aconitifolius fl.-pl. 
acris fl.-pl. 
amplexioaulis 
Saxifraga cordifolia 
crassi folia 
granulata fl.-pl. 
ligulata and vars. 
longi folia 
pyramidalis 

Scabiosa caucasica and vars. 

Sedum spectabile and vars. 

Senecio pulcher 
Spinea Aruncus 

filipendula fl.-pl. 
japonica 
palmata 
venusta 
Statice latifolia 
Tiarella cordifolia 
Tradescantia virginica 
Trollius asiaticus 

curopicus and vars. 

Fortunei 
napellifolius 
Orange Globe 
Verbascum Chaixi 
olympicum 
phlomoides 
Verbena venosa 
Veronica Candida 
corymbosa 
longifolia subsessilis 
Yucca, free-flowering sorts 


Crocus mediUS.—This handsome species 
from Northern Italy is, I consider, one of 
the best of the autumn-flowering section, par¬ 
ticularly those of violet or purplish colour. 
The corm or bulb is of medium size and flat, 
nnd it is one of the most profuse flowering 
sorts that I know. Each bulb will produce 
from three to five of its handsome flowers. 
The dominating tone is violet-purple without 
and slightly paler within, where also may be 
found a few faint lines or markings. Quite 
a feature of this kind is the conspicuous and 
much divided stigmata, which is of a plume¬ 
like character, and of intense blood-orange 
tone. In this respect, as seen in the sun¬ 
light or in the warmth of a sitting room, the 
species surpasses all others at its period of 
flowering. When one remembers the great 
beauty of these plants of autumn it is re¬ 
markable why a greater use is not made of 
some of the best of these things for the sit¬ 
ting room, and. grown in ornamental bowls, 
the plants would be very beautiful. A pot 
full of its bulbs during the present autumn 
kept up a display of flowers for three weeks 
at least, as many as eight or ten being ex¬ 
panded at one time. Its time of flowering is 
October, and for the purpose indicated ami 
for the cold-house it cannot be too highly re¬ 
commended. —E. J. 


“The English Flower Garden and Home 
Grounds. ’’—New Edition, 10th , revised, with descrip¬ 
tions of all the best plants, trees, and shrubs, thrir 
culture and arrangement, illustrated on trorsl. Cloth, 
medium 8vo, L's._: post, .free, 15*. C,d. 

“The English Flower Garden” may also be 
had finch/ f/arnid in 2 ms., half vellum, 2U. nett. Of 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


541 


Deckmuer 7. 1907 


LOBELIA SESSILIFOLIA. 

This moisture-loving plant comes from 
Kamtschatka, and is, therefore, very hardy. 
The flowers are vioLet-blue, freely produced 
on stems one foot or so high. I usually 
grow it with its roots in water. 

Ntwry . T. Smith. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Treatment of Iris.— I shall feci much obliged if 
you can give me any advice as to the best way of 
growing the enclosed Iris bulbs? I do not know the 
name of the variety, but I brought them home from 
Sicily last May. They were then in full flower, and 
covered the hill-sides in the north of the island. 
The flowers are bright-blue, and stand from 8 inches 
to f* inches high, with narrow, (Irass-like leaves, and 
only one floweh on a stalk. Tiie bulbs were, as a 
rule, from 3 Inches to 4 Inches below the surface, and 
grew mostly in a stiff, yellow clay. 1 propose plant¬ 
ing them outdoors in February, on the south slope 


3 inches deep. It is unfortunate you have 
so lorrg kept them out of the soil.] 

Carnation and Picotee —Will you inform me 
through your valuable paper if a I’icotee is a Carna¬ 
tion, and why? I was at a Carnation meeting last 
August, and the secretary said it was so. I cannot 
| convince my friend about it, so I want you, if you 
will be kind enough, to answer it for me.—PICOTBE. 

[Taking Carnation as the name for all the 
forms of Dianthus caryophyllus, we think 
that the forms called Picotoo are a minor 

f roup among Carnations, as are Painted 
•adies.] __ 


GARDEN PESTS AND FRIENDS. 

METHODS OF DESTROYING RATS. 
The brown or Norway rat (Mus norvegicus) 
! is the worst mammal pest in the United 
1 States, the losses from its depredations 



Lobelia sessilifolia. From a photograph in Mr. T. Smith's nursery at Newry, 
Co. Down, Ireland. 


of a rock-garden, but 1 shall feel obliged for any ad¬ 
vice on the subject?— Amy. V. Crowfoot. 

[The Iris is, in all probability, that usually 
known as the Peacock Iris, I. pavonia, the 
correct name of which is Morica glaucopis. 
If, as we understand, you collected the roots 
in the growing state, it is highly improbable 
that they will flower next year. The bulb 
you submit does not appear to be possessed 
of much vitality, and, ne you have had the 
roots so long out of the ground, you had 
better replant them at once. If you try to 
keep them till February, the chances are 
that a dry rot will have bv that time ruined 
the bulbs. Select a warm’ well-drained spot 
in the rock-garden, make the soil rather deep 
and sandy, and of good loamy material for 
the most part. For the present, and until 
signs of growth appear, a covering shelter of 
Cocoa-nut-fibre over the bulbs will be help¬ 
ful to keep off the/w^t. ^Jnsert_tle^bulhs 

Digitized by ^jCK *gIC 


amounting to many millions of dollars yearly 
—to more, indeed, than the losses from all 
other injurious mammals combined. (Several 
species of rats are known as “house rats,” 
including the black rat, Mus rattus, the roof 
rat, Mus alexandrinus, and the brown rat, 
Mus norvegicus. Of these, the last is the 
commonest and most widespread in the States. 
Not one of these species is a native, but all 
were imported from the Old World. As their 
habits in general are similar, the instructions 
given in the bulletin apply alike to all.) In 
addition to its destructive habits, this rat is 
now known to he an active agent in dissemi¬ 
nating infectious diseases, a fact which ren¬ 
ders measures for its destruction doubly im¬ 
portant. 

Introduced into America about the year 
1775, the brown rat has supplanted and 
nearly exterminated its less robust relative, 


the black rat, and, despite the incessant war¬ 
fare of man, has extended its range and 
steadily increased in numbers. Its domin¬ 
ance is due to its great fecundity and its 
ability to adapt itself to all sorts of condi¬ 
tions. It breeds three or four times a year, 
and produces from six to twelve, and even 
more, young at a litter. Young females breed 
when only four or five months old. The 
species is practically omnivorous, feeding 
upon all kinds of animal and vegetable mat 
ter. It makes its home in the open field, the 
hedge row, and the river bank, as well as in 
stone walls, piers, and all kinds of buildings. 
It destroys grain when newly planted, while 
growing, and in the shock, stack, mow, crib, 
granary, mill, elevator, or ship’s hold, and 
also in the bin and feed trough. It. invades 
store and warehouse, and destrojs fur, laces, 
silks, carpets, leather goods, and groceries. 
It attacks fruits, vegetables, and meats in 
the markets, and destroys by pollution ten 
times as much as it actually eats. It carries 
disease germs from house to house and bu¬ 
bonic plague from city to city. It causes 
disastrous conflagrations; floods houses In- 
gnawing lead water pipes ; ruins artificial 
ponds and embankments by burrowing ; de¬ 
stroys the farmers’ pigs, eggs, and young 
poultry ; eats the eggs and young of song and 
game birds ; and damages foundations, floors, 
and furnishings of dwellings. 

Methods of destruction.— A compilation 
of all the methods of destroying rats prac¬ 
tised in historic times would fill a volume. 
Unfortunately, the greater number of them 
are worthless or impracticable. Few have 
more than temporary effect upon their num¬ 
bers, and even the best of them fail unless 
persistently applied. Conditions vary so 
much that no one method of dealing with this 
pest is applicable in all cases. Among the 
more important measures to be recommended 
for actively combating the brown rat are : (1) 
Poisons ; (2) traps; (3) ferrets ; (4) fumiga¬ 
tion, and (5) rat-proof construction of 
buildings. 

Poisoning.— One of the cheapest and most 
effective poisons for rats and mice is barium 
carbonate, or barytes. This mineral has the 
advantage of being without taste or smell ; 
and, in the small quantities used in poison¬ 
ing rats and mice, is harmless to larger ani¬ 
mals. Its notion on rodents is slow, but 
reasonably sure, and has the further ad van 
tage that the animals before dying, if exit be 
possible, usually leave the premises in search 
of water. Its employment in houses, there¬ 
fore, is rarely followed by the annoying odour 
which attends the use of the more virulent 
poisons. The poison may he fed in the form 
of a dough made of one-fifth barytes and 
four-fifths meal, but a more convenient bait 
is ordinary oatmeal, with about one-eighth of 
its bulk of barytes, mixed with water into a 
stiff dough ; or the barytes may be spread 
upon bread and butter or moistened toast. 
The prepared bait should be placed in rat 
runs, a small quantity at a place. If a single 
application of the poison fails to drive all 
rats from the premises, it should lie repeated 
with a change of bait. Strychnine is a 
more virulent poison, but its action is so 
rapid that the animals often die upon the 
premises, a circumstance which prohibits its 
use in occupied dwellings. Elsewhere 
strychnine may he employed with great suc¬ 
cess. Dry strychnine crystals may be in¬ 
serted in small pieces of raw meat, Vienna 
sausage, or toasted cheese, and these placed 
in the runs ; or oatmeal may he wetted with 
a strychnine syrup, and small quantities laid 
out in the same way. Strychnine syrup is 
prepared as follows: Dissolve a half ounce of 
strychnia .sulphate in a pint of boiling water : 
add a pint of thick sugar syrup, and stir tho¬ 
roughly. A smaller quantity of the poison 
may be prepared with a proportional quan¬ 
tity of water. In preparing the bait it is 
necessary that all the oatmeal should be 
moistened with syrup. Wheat is the most, 
convenient alternative bait. It should he 
soaked over night in the strychnine syrup. 
The two poisons most commonly used for rats 
and mice arc arsenic and phosphorus, nearly 
all commercial preparations containing one 
or the other asi a bojspt. While experiments 
prove that, rats have great powers of resist¬ 
ance to arsenic, it may some times-Tie uwd 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN - 



642 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


^December 7, 1907 


advantageously as an alternative poison. Pre- 
Joarations of phosphorus sold by druggists 
lire often too weak to be effective ; and home¬ 
made mixtures, when of sufficient strength, 
are dangerous, as rats may carry the baits 
into walls or crannies, and thu» cause fires. 
For these and other reasons preparations con¬ 
taining phosphorus are not recommended. 
For poisoning rats iii buildings and yards 
occupied bv poultry, the following method is 
recommended : Two wooden boxes should be 
used one considerably larger than the other 
—and each having two or more holes in the 
sides large enough to admit rats. The poi¬ 
soned bait should be placed on the bottom 
and near the middle of the larger box, and 
the smaller box should then be inverted over 
it. Rats thus have free access to the bait, 
but fowls are excluded. 

Trapping. —Trapping, if persistently fol¬ 
lowed, is one of the most effective methods 
of destroying rats. The improved modern 
traps •with a wire fall released by a baited 
trigger and driven by a coiled spring have 
marked advantages over the old forms, and 
many of them may he used at the same time. 
These traps, sometimes called guillotine 
traps, are of many designs, but the more 
simply constructed are to l>e preferred. 
Probably those made entirely of metal are 
the best, ns they are less likely to absorb and 
retain odours. In illustration of the effec¬ 
tiveness of traps, it may be related that a 
year or two ago a large department store in 
Washington experienced heavy losses of 
gloves, lace curtains, and other merchandise 
from rat depredations. For several months 
the damages amounted to from £2 to £6 
nightly. After many unsuccessful attempts 
to abate the nuisance, the managers were ad¬ 
vised to try the improved traps. As a result 
136 rats were killed during the first twenty 
nights, when the losses practically ceased, 
and the method has been continued in the 
store ever since with satisfactory results. 
Guillotine traps should lie baited with small 
pieces of Vienna sausage (Wienerwurst) or 
bacon. The trigger wire should be bent in¬ 
ward to bring the bait into proper position to 
permit the fall to strike the rat in the neck. 
Other excellent baits for rats are oatmeal, 
toasted cheese, toasted bread (buttered), and 
Sunflower or Pumpkin seeds. When seed, 
grain, or meai is used with a guillotine trap, 
it may be placed on the trigger plate, or the 
trigger wire may be bent outward and the 
bait sprinkled under it. Wire cage traps 
(French) are also useful for catching rats, 
but in the long run the kinds recommended 
above are much more effective. While trap¬ 
ping, all other food should be removed, and 
the trap bait should be changed often. Rats 
are very suspicious, and baits and traps 
should be handled as little as possible. In¬ 
creased success may be secured both in trap¬ 
ping and poisoning if the rats are fed for a 
night or two with the kinds of food to be 
used for bait. 

Use of ferrets and dogs.—A ferret is 
useful for the purpose of driving rats out of 
burrows and other hiding places so that dogs 
can capture them. An experienced person 
with dogs and ferrets trained to work to¬ 
gether can kill many rats when they are 
numerous. But the amateur ferreter is likely 
to be greatly disappointed. In the Rice fields 
of the Far East the natives build numerous 
piles of brush and Rice straw and leave them 
for several days until many rats have taken 
shelter in them. A portable Bamboo inelo- 
sune several feet in height is then set up 
around each pile in succession and the straw 
and brush are thrown out over the top while 
dogs and men kill the trapped rodents. 
Large numbers are killed in this way, and 
the plan, with modifications, may be utilised 
with satisfactory results. A wire netting of 
fine mesh may be used for the inclosure. 
The scheme is applicable at the removal of 
grain, straw', or hay stacks, as well as brush 
piles. 

Fumigation. —Rats may be destroyed in 
their burrows, in the fields, and, still more 
important, in levees and Rice-field dikes, by 
the use of carbon bisulphid. A wad of cotton 
or other absorbent material is saturated with 
the liquid and pushed into the burrow, the 
opening being packed with soil to prevent 
escape of the gas. All animals in the burrow 

Digitized by Google 


are asphyxiated. Fumigation about build¬ 
ings is not 60 effective, as the gas cannot 
readily be confined. 

Rat-proof construction.— The best way 
of excluding ruts from buildings, whether in 
the city or country, is by the use of cement 
in construction. As the advantages of this 
material are coming to be generally under¬ 
stood, its use is rapidly extending to all 
kinds of building. Dwellings, dairies, barns, 
stables, chicken-houses, ice houses, bridges, 
dams, silos, tanks, cisterns, root, collars, hot¬ 
beds, sidewalks, and curbs are now often 
made wholly of concrete. In constructing 
dwelling-houses the additional cost of making 
the foundations rat-proof is slight as com¬ 
pared with the advantages. The cellar walls 
should have concrete footings and the walls 
themselves be laid in cement mortar. The 
cellar floor should be of “medium” rather 
than “lean” concrete, and all water and 
drain pipes should be surrounded with con¬ 
crete. Even an old cellar may be made rat- 
proof at comparatively small expense. Rat 
holes may be permanently closed by a mix 
ture of cement, sand, and broken glass or 
sharp bits of stone. Rat proof granaries, 
corn-cribs, and poultry-houses may he con¬ 
structed by a liberal use of concrete in the 
foundations and floors. Rats, mice, and 
sparrow's may be excluded from corn-cribs by 
the use of either an inner or an outer cover¬ 
ing of fine-mesh wire netting sufficiently heavy 
to resist the teeth of rats. The common cus¬ 
tom of setting corn-cribs upon posts with in¬ 
verted pans at the top often fails because the 
posts are not long enough to insure that the 
lower cracks of the structure arc beyond 
jumping reach of rats. The po,st« should pro¬ 
ject at least 3 feet above the surface of the 
ground. 

Natural enemies of rats.— The value of 
carnivorous mammals and the larger birds of 
prey in destroying rats should be more fully 
recognised, especially by the farmer and the 
game preserver. Chief among the animals 
that are useful in destroying these rodents 
are the fox, skunk, and weasel, and the larger 
species of owds and hawks. Rata destroy 
more poultry and game, both eggs and young 
chicks, than all the birds and wild mam¬ 
mals named combined, yet some of our most 
useful birds of prey and carnivorous mam¬ 
mals are persecuted almost to the point of 
extinction. An enlightened public sentiment 
should cause the repeal of all bounties on 
these animals and afford protection to the 
majority of them. 

By the persistent use of traps, occasional 
resort to poison, and the exercise of fore¬ 
thought in the construction of farm buildings 
so as to minimise the opportunities for har¬ 
borage, farmers and others may prevent the 
greater part of the loss and annoyance they 
now experience from rat depredations. The 
same statement applies in great measure to 
city and village conditions. Hence co-opera- 
tion in the destruction of rats is particularly 
important, and cannot be too strongly urged. 
—Bulletin of the U.S. Department of Agri¬ 
culture. 


NOTES AND BE PLIES. 

Scale on Perns —T am enclosing some Fern 
fronds. Will you kindly tel! me what is the pest that 
has attacked them? What ought I to do with the 
plants attacked? I have some Ferns in the same house, 
and to-dny I found some insects on the Maiden-hair 
Ferns. Is there any danger of it spreading from one 
house to the other, as I havo two houses joining? 
One I use for Ferns, and the other as a mixed house. 
-A. B. 

[The Fern-fronds you send have been 
attacked by brown scale, which may be re¬ 
moved by using a small brush made of a tuft 
of rather soft bristles, and applying a solu¬ 
tion of either Gishurst Compound or soft- 
soap, or the insecticide you mention. The 
use of such a brush on delicate Ferns would, 
however, disfigure them, therefore it is bet¬ 
ter to see that the old fronds are clean, as in 
this way the young ones are aLso kept clean. 
Seeing, however, that the fronds you send 
are so badly attacked, we would advise you 
to cut off all those on which the pest is and 
burn them. We would not hesitate to burn 
all the plants so attacked, and start with a 
clean stock. Unless you take stringent mea¬ 
sures, the scale will spread to all your plants, 
and in the end ruin them.] 


VEGETABLES. 

CABBAGES FOR SPRING CUTTING. 
Whatever tho result may be- as regards the 
possibility of the plants bolting in the spring, 
in consequence of their being so forward, 
it would be almost impossible to have more 
favourable conditions for planting than those 
which have prevailed this autumn. As a 
result the plants intended for furnishing 
hearts for the earliest supply look re¬ 
markably well, they having made good 
growth, and become firmly rooted, which is 
half the battle in enabling these autumn- 
planted Cabbages to resist the effects of 
severe w-eather, should such set in early. 
This break comprises 1,200 plants in three 
varieties—viz., Ellam’s Dwarf, Flower of 
Spring, and Early April, the plot being the 
site of an old Strawberrv-bed, the soil of 
which is rather light., black, and full of 
humus. Should the plants pass through the 
winter satisfactorily, one may reasonably 
look forward to be in a position to commence 
cutting much earlier than has been the case 
for the past three seasons. In these three 
instances the primary cause of the plants 
hearting in so late was owing to the dry 
state of the soil at planting-time. When 
tho subsoil becomes dried out, as it was in 
the three cases referred to, surface watering 
beyond keeping the plants going, is of little 
avail, and until rain in sufficient quantity 
falls, to moisten the lower stratum, the 
plants make but little headway. This re¬ 
tarding naturally has the result of causing 
the crop to come to maturity later than would 
be the case under normal conditions, and, 
uncomfortable and inconvenient as the recent 
rains have proved in many respects, they have 
had the effect of soaking the ground in a most 
thorough manner to a considerable depth. 

Within the past ten days another break 
of plants from a later sowing, equal as re¬ 
gards numbers to the one previously alluded 
to, has been got in. These, benefiting by 
the rains, have made a good start, and are 
fairly on the way in becoming established. 
The soil in which those are planted is a 
heavy yellow' loam, and the site part of the 
bed which carried the spring-sown Onions. 
As soon as circumstances will allow, a little 
soil will be drawn up to the plants on either 
side of the rows as a protective measure, 
and which will also prevent their being 
toppled over in rough, windy weather. 

A. W. 

SEAKALE. 

In private gardens Seakale is usually treated 
as an annual—that is, a fresh stock of roots 
is grown each year from cuttings—though, 
doubtless, there are still places where it is 
allowed to remain several years on the same 
ground, and forced by covering with heating 
material, such a.s fresh leaves and long litter 
afford. While admitting that larger heads 
are forthcoming, it entails more labour to get 
it, and one is, to a certain extent, handi¬ 
capped by the weather. Those of us who 
adopt the former plan, will be lifting the en¬ 
tire stock now, and the best tool for the pur¬ 
pose is the spade, which should be let down 
its full depth, and care taken that the crown 
is not bruised in the operation. All forked 
roots require to be broken off and saved, the 
most promising being made into “cuttings,” 
which can be done in wet or frosty weather. 
The larger end «hould be cut level, the other 
end slanting, to denote top and bottom, in 
case they are planted before callussing takes 
place, 'fhe ground from which the roots have 
been taken will require to be forked back 
deeply, so that every particle of root can 1><* 
got out before manuring the same for another 
crop. Crowns intended for forcing must be 
laid in trenches and covered with soil, and in 
case of hard weather covered with leaves or 
litter, so that a supply of roots may l>e had 
weekly, if n daily supply is required for the 
table. Seakale can be forced readily now in 
the Mushroom-house, or the crowns may he 
packed into large pots or deep boxes, and 
stood under the stage of a warm house. Kept 
quite dark and daily moistened with a syringe 
or rose-can, it should be fit in about three 

wwks. Oriciiral fren „ 

East Devon. 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



I) EC EM BE U 7, 1507 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


513 


GARDEN WORK. 

Conservatory. —Give the climbers the final 
thinning, and let in as much light as possible. 
Of course, nothing possessing any decorative 
value will be removed. Lapagerias in flower 
will be valuable now, as will also Luculia 
trained to a wall, or Habrothamnus fascicu- 
laris over an arch. Tea Roses, again, plan¬ 
ted in a good bed are seldom altogether 
flowerless in a light position near the glass. 
Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums in a similar position 
are still in flower, and double varieties, such 
as Raspail Improved, will flower more or less 
all winter, if not over-watered. It is a mis¬ 
take to over-water Zonnl Pelargoniums now, 
either in pots or planted out ; but Camellias 
and hard-wooded plants generally must have 
very carefuL attention in watering. If they 
are permitted to get as dry at the roots as 
Pelargoniums are safely left, they will, prob¬ 
ably, go Avrong, and their watering wilL 
scarcely save them. Watering just now re¬ 
quires very careful attention, and every plant 
should be individualised, and this is where 
young hands generally make a mistake. They 
do very well in summer, when every plant 
Avants a good drink, but now each plant 
should bo tested by tapping the pots with 
something to draw out the sound. A gar¬ 
dener uses his knuckles, as a rule, but any 
plant which is out of reach may be tested 
with a stick. In a lofty house, baskets filled 
with Begonias or anything else of a bright 
nature will bo very effective, and must be 
had. If one lias a few good-sized wire 
baskets and plenty of fresh, green Moss, 
baskets of flowering plants can soon be im¬ 
provised. There are, or should lie, suitable 
material now for filling baskets, including 
long trailing plants of Asparagus for hang¬ 
ing about. The most beautiful plant for 
baskets now is Begonia Gloire de Lorraine, 
but Zonal Pelargoniums, Primula obcouica, 
and bulbs may be used. 

Stove. —The shade will not be required 
now, and the watering should be in careful 
hands. Plants near the hot water pipes, 
especially if the pots are well filled with 
roots, may require water every day, but those 
in the centre of the house will not require 
it so often. Every plant should be examined 
daily. Atmospheric moisture may be sup¬ 
plied by damping floors, if there is any 
doubt about the purity of the water, though 
if the water is pure a good syringing once a 
day will be beneficial. Keep down fires as 
much as is consistent with a regular night 
temperature of (30 degs. to 05 degs., and 
00 clegs, at sunrise is quite high enough. A 
little ventilation may be given when the ther¬ 
mometer approaches 80 degs., but close early 
in the afternoon, and syringe or damp down. 
Eucharis Lilies and Nerines will l>e useful 
now, aud may easily be had in bloom where 
there is a number of plants to come on in 
succession. A good deal of colour may iioav 
he had from fine-foliaged plants, such as 
Crotons, Dractenas, Puiidanus Veitchi, etc. 
Caladiums will now be going quietly to rest, 
but must not be dried off suddenly. Gesneras 
will now be useful, and may either be had 
singly in small pots for the table or in pans 
for the warm conservatory. Cocos Palms 
will be valuable now for table decoration. 

Shrubs for forcing.— Among the most use¬ 
ful things are Lilacs, Deutzias, Azaleas, both 
Indian and deciduous, Rhododendrons, Roses, 
Spirteas, and Weigelas. It is of no use 
attempting to force anything which has had 
no previous preparation. The plants should 
Ixj grown in pots for one year, and Hie growth 
well ripened. We have found standard Roses 
in pots very useful for standing among the 
lower-growing plants in the conservatory. 
If potted early and plunged outside they will 
be in flower in March or April, and he appre¬ 
ciated. They should 1x3 brought on quietly 
the first year, but in the second se ason they 
will bear forcing, and may be had in bloom 
early. They will, of course, want good-sized 
pots, and during the summer must be plunged 
in an open situation and be cared for in the 
matter of feeding. , -> 

Th® late Peaoh^housc.y ThqAw^s will 
be down now, and rbe*Aeer6d rii*k “rPady for 
pruning. If the trees are makiiTg-'Very 6trong 


wood, it will be better to give a check to the 
roots by digging a trench deep enough to 
work under and lift their extremities. This 
will generally give sufficient check. There 
should be no hard cutting back, as this gener¬ 
ally leads to still stronger growth the follow¬ 
ing year. Better check the roots, and just 
merely remove the unripe ends from the 
strong shoots, if there is room for extension. 
Something also can lx? done to check and 
balance growth in the retraining by opening 
the centre of the trees and drawing doAvn the 
strong branches. This can be done without 
spoiling the shaj>e of the trees, and the bot¬ 
tom should always be weLl filled up. 

Forcing Vines in pots. —Assuming the 
canes are strong and well-ripened, forcing 
may begin shortly, to have ripe Grapes at the 
end of May, and new Grapes are not gener¬ 
ally required before May, as Lady Downe’s 
and Gros Colman may be kept in the Grape- 
room, if required, to the end of May, or oven 
later. The Black Hamburgh is superior in 
flavour to most of the thick-skinned black 
Grapes. Where possible, I should prefer a 
span-roofed house with a leaf-bed in a pit on 
each side, partly plunging the pots in the 
bed. No artificial heat will be required at 
first, as the warmth from the leaf-bed will 
keep up a temperature of 50 degs., or a little 
more. Tie the canes down till they break, 
and if there is any sluggishness in any rod, 
take the cane in the hand and twist it till the 
pressure reaches the roots. 

Early Potatoes In pots. —French Beans 
and Potatoes in pots may be brought on in 
the pot-Vine house without injuring the 
Vines in any way. Plant three Potatoes in 
each 10-inch pot, leaving room at the top of 
the pots for earthing up. Veitcli’s Ashleaf 
and Sharpe’s Victor force well. Osborne’s 
Forcing French Bean may lx; used for 
earliest crop, five Beans in a G-inch or 7-inch 
pot. 

Ferns for the room. Adiantum elegans, 
when grown cool for a time in a light posi¬ 
tion, will last some time indoors, and the 
dwarf Adiantum cupilUis-Veneris (English 
Maiden hair) is quite hardy, and may he 
grown in rooms continuously. All the 
Pterises and most of the Aspleniums are good 
room Ferns, and 1 have had the Elk’s horn 
Fern in the house all the winter, sponging 
occasionally. Nephrolepis compacta is fairly 
lasting, and Cyrtomium falcatum is hardy 
in some places. 

Outdoor garden.— It is generally under¬ 
stood that November is the best month for 
planting Roses, provided the site has been 
previously well prepared, ot-henvise I should 
prefer to wait till February, and devote some 
time to trenching, manuring, and intermix¬ 
ing the soil. There is no doubt that all 
spring-flowering plants are better planted 
now, yet there are circumstances which may 
render it necessary to plant in spring. Car¬ 
nations, Pinks, Pansies, Wallflowers, and all 
bulbs planted now or during November get a 
firm bold of the soil, and will flower better 
than if the planting is delayed. Take (he 
case of hardy annuals, which are usually 
sown in September and transplanted when 
the beds are cleared. There is no compari¬ 
son between their growth and that of plants 
raised in spring; but if moved later in 
autumn and frost sets in before the roots 
have got a hold of the soil, an inch or two 
of short stuff as a mulch will keep them 
comfortable by checking the uplifting power 
of the frost. This is a good time for thin¬ 
ning and reducing neglected shrubberies and 
clearing out useless nurses. 

Fruit garden. —The American-bligbt is 
spreading in many suburban gardens, and 
this is almost as destructive as the Goose¬ 
berry-mildew. and as difficult, to clear out, 
short of the drastic plan of grubbing up and 
burning the trees. I have lately seen some 
quite hopeless cases, and the only useful plan 
appeared to be to reduce the vsize of the trees 
very considerably before attempting to clean 
them. The insects spread so rapidly that 
one badly attacked tree in a district may, if 
neglected, spread the pest all over the place. 
It may, of course, be kept, in check if closely 
attended to with oily matter in summer. 
Trees are moving well now r , and any planting 


yet remaining to be done should be hurried 
fonvard whilst the AA'eather is suitable, bear¬ 
ing in mind that a young tree should not be 
planted on the site of an old one without a 
considerable change of soil. Neither is it 
wise to plant trees in small holes dug out of 
firm, unmoved land. If the ground cannot 
be broken up, make large holes. 

Vegetable garden.— There will soon be 
a demand for forced vegetables, and iu 
country districts Avhere leaves are plentiful 
they can be largely used for making hot-beds 
for forcing Asparagus, Seakale, and early 
Potatoes. The proportion should be half 
leave** and half stable-manure, as the manure 
puts life into the leaves and holds them to¬ 
gether. A well-made hot-bed will carry » 
crop of Asparagus, and may then be planted 
with Potatoes or Lettuces, or soavii with 
Horn Carrots and Radishes. To keep a suc¬ 
cession, Asparagus-beds should lx? made at 
least every three Aveeks or so. A frame- 
grown Lettuce, where there is a little bottom- 
heat in the bed, is equal to, if not superior 
to, the Lettuces the French send. A simple 
form of hot-bed for Lettuces, Radishes, etc., 
is to dig out a w'ide trench, fill with leaves 
and manure, place on 8 inches of good soil, 
and cover with cheap glass in any form, 
though I prefer narrow movable frames to 
cloches or hand-lights. If the frames are 
not deep enough for Cauliflowers, they can 
be lifted up by placing a brick under the 
corners Avhen the days lengthen in spring. 
Every spare moment should be devoted to 
trenching or otherwise deepening the soil. 

E. Hobday. 

THE COMING WEEKS WORK. 

Extracts from a (lardcn Diary. 

December -Started more French Beans 
in pots. Moved Rhubarb and Seakale to 
Mushroom-house. Hitherto we have used no 
artificial heat in this house, as the warmth 
of the beds suffices to keep up a steady tem¬ 
perature of 55 degs., or sometimes a little 
more. Shifted on late Primulas and Ciner¬ 
arias. Moved Calceolarias into flowering 
pots. 

December 10th. -We have some pruning to 
do in the shrubbery, as a look round is given 
annually to prevent overcrowding. Some 
common things have been grubbed up, and a 
new shrub or tree is occasionally planted to 
keep up to the times. A new bed has been 
prepared in a sheltered spot for Trec- 
Pieonies. 

December 11th.— Commenced taking cut¬ 
tings of Chrysanthemums. Choice varieties 
are inserted singly into small pots; other 
kinds which are grown largely arc propagated 
in shallow boxes. A frame has been given up 
to these cuttings in a light., cool house, from 
which the frost will be kept out. We find 
them do well in such a position. 

December 12lk. —Moved various forcing 
shrubs and plants into warm-house. We find 
the baby Rambler Rose (Mine. Norbert 
Lavavasseur) very good for forcing in 5-inch 
and 6-inch pots. A lot of Rhododendrons 
has been potted up for gentle forcing. It is 
generally necessary to make a fresh selection 
annually, as the same plants will not flower 
so well the second season. 

December 13th .—Pruning is being pushed 
forward as rapidly as possible. We usually 
prune the bush fruits now, and then dress 
them with lime and soot. This will be re¬ 
peated, if necessary. It keeps off birds, and 
cleanses and otherwise benefits the bushes. 
Finished unnailing Peaches on Avails. This 
irefers to young shoots only, but when re¬ 
training Ave usually take the trees from the 
w alls to open out and re-arrange the branches. 

December ll,th.— Trenching is being done in 
kitchen garden at odd times as men can lx? 
spared from oilier work. We are waiting for 
frost to move manure. Hut-beds also will be 
made up when the land is too wet to work 
upon. Took up a lot of Horse-radish and 
laid it in ready for use. Moved a feAv late 
Chrysanthemums to the conservatory to re¬ 
place scarlet Salvias. 

The French Prune Plum.-Would some render 
tell me if the French Prune Plum would grow in Eng¬ 
land? If so. it would fee valuable as a late fruit,— 
D. 




511 


GARDEJVIJV'G ILLUSTRATED. 


December 7, 1907 


KOVAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 

November 20 th. 

Despite the inclement weather, there was 
an excellent display, chiefly of flowering 
plants, and among these the Orchids, Be¬ 
gonias, and Chrysanthemums call for special 
remark. The attendance, however, was 
meagre in the extreme. An exhibit that 
attracted much attention was that of the 
white and pink-flowered varieties of Begonia 
Gloire de Lorraine from Lord Howard de 
Walden, Saffron Walden (gardener, Mr. 
Vert). Of these a full table was set up, the 
plants, for the most part, of large size, finely 
grown, and profusely flowered. The exhibit 
was given plenty of room, and the plants 
interspersed with Fenm and other things 
created so good an impression that the ar¬ 
rangement was “highly commended” by the 
judging committee. Of more than ordinary 
merit was the splendid lot of Ferns from 
Messrs. J. Hill and Sous, Barrow field Nur¬ 
series, Edmonton. This group occupied the 
table at the platform end of the hall, and. in 
addition to many giant examples of Davallia 
fijiensis and its varieties, were many choice 
and rare species belonging to other genera. 
Among these Adiantuin Hendersoni was pro¬ 
minent. while choice examples of Polypodium 
and Cheilanthes attracted attention. A wel¬ 
come and seasonable group was that of 
Hollies, Conifers, and other evergreen shrubs 
from Messrs. J. Waterer and Hons, Bagshot, 
the fresh looking example** of which the 
group was composed creating a good impres¬ 
sion. Well furnished examples, such as those 
•shown, are destined, even with ordinary care, 
to make fine epeciiueiiB in the future. A very 
i ii terestiug group of Ferns came from Messrs. 
H. B. May and Sons, Edmonton, and here 
were seen chiefly those species that succeed 
on wood or cork blocks. Of these there were 
many Polypodiums, Aspleniums, Niphobolus, 
Davallia, Platvcerium, etc. The Chrysanthe¬ 
mums from Mr. H. J. Jones, Lewisham, 
8 .E., Ave-re quite a feature, the large exhibi¬ 
tion blooms in white, yellow, bronze, and 
other shades of colour showing to perfection 
in the vases. In addition there were aiugle- 
flowered and decorative sorts in great 
variety, the whole making an imposing array 
at this somewhat late date. 

The winter-flowering Begonias, Jacobinias, 
Citrus, and other things from the Messrs. 
J as. Veitch and Sons, Ltd., Chelsea, were 
arranged with excellent taste, showing to ad¬ 
vantage these telling flowers of mid-winter. 
In addition to such Begonias as Ensign, Sue 
cess, and others, we were pleased to note 
many flowering examples of the chief pro¬ 
genitor of the race, B. socotrana, in the 
centre of the group, the well-grown plants 
making a good display. Especially good, and 
from more than one standpoint, was the ex¬ 
hibit of chiefly market sorts of Chrysanthe¬ 
mums shown by Mr. Philip Ladds, Swaulev 
Junction. The flowers were extremely well 
displayed, and in the pink of perfection. 
Western King, white ; Matchless, crimson; 
and Lord Brooke, bronze, were among the 
finest, while Golden Age is. wo think, the 
brightest tone in yellow-flowered sorts we 
have seen. Zonal Pelargoniums and single 
and decorative Chrysanthemums from Mr. 
II. Canuell and Son, Swan ley, were much 
admired. Retarded flowering examples of 
pink and white Astilbes—the so-called 
** Spirteao ” of many catalogues—with a fine 
lot of fruiting examples of Citrus sinensis, 
the “Otaheite Orange,” came from the 
Messrs. Will. Cutbush and Sons, Highgate. 
The Carnations from Messrs. Hugh Low and 
Co., Enfield, were of more than ordinary 
merit, the handsome vases of Britannia, Mrs. 
Burnett, Enchantress, and White Perfection 
being noticeable. Mr. L. R. Russell, Rich¬ 
mond, showed berried shrubs, including 
Pernettyas, Skimmias, Aucubas, and the like, 
with hardy foliage plants as Eloeagnus, etc. 
Mr. Norman Davis, Framfield, Sussex, had a 
superb lilac pink flowered Japanese Chrysan¬ 
themum named Edith Jameson, for which an 
award of merit, was granted. Mr. A. Kings- 
mill, Harrow Weald, showed several fruiting 
branches of Peraettya itfufcronata. 1 
Some extremely vfinobl^JOrcl^*| (were 
seen at this meeting, thru lif seVerA cotlec- 


tious were good specimens of Cypripedium 
Sandersc. That from Mr. N. C. Cookson, 
Wylam-on-Tyne, was a grand piece, while 
Mr. F. Wellesley, Woking, had, among 
others, good examples of Cypripedium 
Arthurianum, C. Fairrieanum, C. Thalia, 
Mrs. Wellesley, cte. The Orchids from Mr. 
J. Cypher, Cheltenham, were very fine, and, 
in addition to Cvprijjedium Sanderae, we 
noted C. Hitchen.se, with a remarkably dis¬ 
tinct violet-spotted dorsal sepal. Mr. Tracey, 
Twickenham, and the Messrs. Heath and Co., 
Cheltenham, also had good displays. In the 
group from Messrs. Charlesworth, Bradford, 
the Lielio-CattLeya Cappel (Lmlia cinna- 
barina x Cattleya gigas) made a most re¬ 
markable display with its orange and red 
flowers, the firm having some choice Lvcoetea 
and a white-flowered Odontoglot, O. arden- 
tissiinmn Xantothes, the blossoms rather 
small, but wry solid-looking. A few rare 
OdontogLossums in flower came from M. 
Maurice Merteus, Mont St. A m and, Ghent, 
a piece of O. Wilckeimum var. attracting 
much attention. Messrs. Sander and the 
Messrs. Veitch also showed Orchids, while a 
beautiful lot came from Mr. Appleton, 
Weston-super-Mare. 

A very fine collection of Apples and Pears 
came from His Grace the Duke of Rutland, 
Belvoir Castle (gardener, Mr. Divers), the 
fruits being in excellent condition. Oranges 
and Lemons were exhibited by Mrs. Thorn¬ 
hill, Bakewcll; Apples and Orange trees 
the latter in fruit —coining from the Messrs. 
Hugh Low and Co., Enfield. 

A full list of awards will be found in our 
advertising columns. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

Diseased Violets (£. J. Turner ).—Your Violets 
have been attacked by the Violet fungus (Cercospora 
viola 1 ), a common disease. among Violets. Cutting 
off the affected leaves, and then spraying the plants 
with Bordeaux mixture is the best remedy. We 
should not advise you to increase your stock from 
these diseased plauts. (jet a fresh stock, and plant in 
another part of the garden. 

Book on Roses Winter ).—The “Book of the 
Rose,” by the late Rev. Foster Meliiar. is aljoiit the 
best work that deals with exhibiting Roses. If you 
follow our pages, you will find nearly every phase of 
Rose-growing is taken up and written upon in its 
season. In the early part of the New Year we hope 
to publish some articles upon the subject of exhibit¬ 
ing Roses, mainly with a view to assisting others like 
yourself. 

Bordeaux mixture ( W. T. Fowler ).—Get 2 lb. of 
sulphate of copper from a chemist, and dissolve it in 
h large wooden tub by sonkiug it in hot water, say, 
2 gallons. Then dissolve in a pail 2 lb. of fresh lime. 
When both materials are quite dissolved, put the 
two liquids together in the tub, and stir in 2 lb. of 
treacle to make it sticky. Then add 18 gallons of 
water, and the liquid will be ready for use. It should 
he thrown over the plants in the form of a fine spray, 
and two applications ten days apart should be given 
to do the plants real service. 

Delphiniums from seed (E. O.).—The common 
annual Larkspurs are best sown outride where they 
are to flower. In the case of the perennial forms it 
is best to sow the seed as soon as gathered. The soil 
is then warm, and the seed, being new, will soon 
germinate. If you purchase the seeds In spring, or 
if you have saved your own, we should advise you to 
sow in boxes or pans under «la.->s in the spring, prick¬ 
ing the seedlings out when large enough. Under any 
circumstances, the perennial varieties will not hloorn 
the same season, though the annual varieties will do 
so if sown outside in March or April. 

Moss in lawn (J■ If.). — The solution is made in 
the proportion <>f 1 lb. of sulphate to 2 gallons of 
water. The solution should always be made in u 
wooden vessel, such as an old cask. The operation 
of distribution may be facilitated by having ready 
prepared a concentrated solution of 88 lbs. of the 
sulphate in 22 gallons of clear plain water, a quart 
of this solution to be mixed with plain water in every 
2 gallon watering-pot. The plain water should be 
put into the watering-pot first, then adding the solu¬ 
tion, using for a measure a small wooden pail or 
glazed earthenware vessel. The tap of the ca#K 
should also be u wooden one. 

Twelve early - flowering Chrysanthemums 
for indoor flowering (Vale). — Early-flowering 
Chrysanthemums for indoor decoration are not grown 
in very large numbers, us so many excellent varie¬ 
ties bloom so satisfactorily iu the open border. We 
can confidently recommend the following sorts for 
your purpose, as being free-flowering and bushy in 
their habit of growth: Fee Japonaise, creamy-white, 
shaded rose; Lillie, pearl-pink; H. H. Crane, chestnut, 
with old gold reverse; Le Cygne, pure-white: Roi dea 
Blancs, pure-white, and extremely free-flowering; 
Polly, deep-orange; Nina Blick, reddish-bronze; I’erle 
Rose, pearl-pink: Pride of Keaton, reddisli-rose, 
silvery reverse; Chatillon. orange and ochre-yellow, 
with straw-coloured reverse; Goaeher’s Crimson, deep 
rich-crimson; and Maggie, rich-yellow, dwarf, and 


bushy. The foregoing represent a pleasing variety, 
both in form and colour. The plants should bo 
partially disbudded.—E. U. 

Anemone coronaria seedlings (A. C. II.).— 
It were better that the tubers had been transplanted 
while iu the dormant stage, and you do not say 
whether the plants are iu pans or boxes or in the 
open ground. In the ease of seeds sown so recently 
as May last, but little progress can have been made, 
and the seedlings had better remain where they are 
for the present, and until the growth is completed 
next spring. Then, as soon as dormant, you may lift 
and place them m dry earth or sand for a time, re¬ 
planting them in October where you will. In dealing 
with these things, it is a good plan to sow’ the 6eeds 
in the open ground thinly and in shallow drills. In 
this way the young plants may be kept clean. We 
hope shortly to publish a note on the cultivation of 
these plants, and to which you had better refer. 

The common Musk (L. It.).—This, in mild locali¬ 
ties, is quite hardy—indeed, it must be a cruel com¬ 
bination of cold, wet soils and a hard winter that will 
actually kill the rhizomes anywhere. A broad carpet 
of Musk is now and then a good feature in a garden, 
but, ns it is very difficult of thorough eradication, it 
is well to select a position where it cannot harm more 
dclieate-liabitcd plants. Because Musk dies down, 
many throw the plants away, whereas the root is still 
alive, and this may be-what has happened in your 
case. It will, iu all probability, start into growth in 
the early spring. Tut some coal-ashes and leaf-soil, or 
Cocoa-nut-fibre over the roots of your Romneya 
Coulter!. Any of these will help to protect the roots 
during the winter. You might put a mat over tho 
branches during severe frost, but this must be re¬ 
moved as soon as the weather becomes mild. 

Treatment of Plumbago ( Fern Lover).—Give 
your Plumbago a moderate amount of water during 
the winter, then about the end of February shorten 
buck the more vigorous shoots and cut out the weak 
ones. When the new shoots arc about an inch long, 
then is the time to repot the plants, using a compost 
of two parts loam to one part leaf-mould and plenty 
of sand. When the plants are growing freely, a little 
liquid-manure once a fortnight will be beneficial. Tho 
Lasiandra needs, during the winter, a minimum 
temperature of 45 degs.; indeed, a general tempera¬ 
ture of 50 degs. to 60 degs. will suit it well. During 
the winter the water supply must- be lessened, but on 
no account must the soil be allowed to become 
parched up. You are keeping the Begonias you men¬ 
tion far too cold, hence the falling of the leaves. 
They must have a temperature of not less than 
00 degs., rising to 7o degs. during the day. 

TREES AND SHRUBS. 

Eucalyptus, cutting down (It. U. Welling*).— 
Cutting the Eucalyptus down will cause lateral 
growths to start, but you will by so doing spoil the 
shape of the plant. You can keep it during tho 
winter in any outhouse or shed where the frost can¬ 
not reach it. Could you not plunge the pot in the 
greenhouse, and so lower the plant that the leaves 
could not touch the glass? 

FRUIT. 

American blight on Apple tree (C. H\).— 
Judging from the minute specimens you send, we 
fear your Apple-tree has been attacked by American 
blight. Hub some paraffin emulsion diluted with ten 
times its volume of water over the parts that are in¬ 
fested with tile blight. Use a stiffish brush and work 
the emulsion well into nil the crcvicca where the 
blight is seen. You might also syringe tho tree with 
the caustic alkali solution, the recipe for and mode 
of using which have been so often given iu these 
pages. A friend of ours uses neat’s foot oil for paint¬ 
ing the trees with, and has found it very effectual. 

VEGETABLES. 

Celery bolting (If. B., Co. Cork).- The sample of 
Celery which you send has run to seed. This may bo 
due to various causes. Sometimes seed may be saved 
from a stock that has thus prematurely sent up 
flower-stems; sometimes it arises from sowing too 
early (the most common cause); sometimes because 
the plants have inferior culture when young, getting 
half starved wheu in the seed-pans or boxes. When 
the stock is good, and the seedlings raised in March or 
April, and dibbled out into liandlights or frames quite 
thinly, the after cultivation also being good, bolting 
seldom follows.___ 

SHORT REPLIES. 

Mrs. L. V.— There is no doubt your canary has bteii 
attacked by red-mites. Bee note iu an early issue. 
— Tomato-grower.— Boeing that Tomatoes have, as 
you say, been grown in tin* soil for a few years, you 
will have to dear all the old soil out and fill iu with 

fresh before you can hope to do any good.-Anxious. 

—Not gardening questions.- P. II .—Your Chrysan¬ 

themum may be a sport. Name it yourself, and sub¬ 
mit three flowers to the Floral Committee of the 
Royal Horticultural Society or to the Committee of 
the National Chrysanthemum Society next autumn. 

- II. Brett.— Write to Strawson's, Limited, 71a, 

Queen Victoria-street, London, E.C.- Kerry.— For 

such a hedge as you mention, you will find nothing 
so good as the common Holly. Procure strong seed-, 
ling plants. 

NAMES OP PLANTS AND FRUITS. 

Name of plant. —D. It. It.— Cratiegus Pyracantha ; 
yes, we think it ought to do well on chalky soil by 
the sea. 

Names of fruit James Shield.— Pear Beurr<* Did. 
- 1). Worley and John Gibbint.— Specimens insuffi¬ 
cient. __ 


Catalogues received —H. B. Pollard, 12, Green 
Hill, Evesham, Worcester.—A Garden Ever in Bloom. 

-Peimick and Co., Delg-tny Nurseries Co. Wicklow, 

Ireland .—Catalogue oj Flowering Shrubs, Roses, Fruit, 
and Forest Trees. 





GARDENING ILLUSTRATED, 


No. 1,501. —\ OL. XXIX. Founded by W. Robinson, Author qf “ The English Flower Garden." DECEMBER 14, 1907. 


Anemouca.. .. .. 553 

Apple Miller a Seedling .">48 
Apple Newton Wonder 518 
Apples and Pear* 
scabbed .. .. .. 558 

Arabia albida gramli- 
florm super ba .. .. 555 

Ash. dust-destnielor .. 548 

Azalea, thrips on .. 553 

Bed of leaves in forcing, 
value of a .. .. 558 

Birds .557 

Books .557 

Browallia spcciosa ma¬ 
jor.553 

Carnation Duchess of 
Westminster .. .. 553 

Cherry, Morello, fall¬ 
ing .558 


Chick weed (Uerastiuni 
tomentosuni), Moubc- 

car .555 

Chrysanthemum 
Holmes White .. 550 
Chrysanthemum Tueks- 
wootl Early .. .. 550 

Chrysanthemums .. 550 
Chrysanthemums for 
various purposes .. 550 
Chrysanthemums- 
naturally - grown 

plants.550 

Chrysanthemums, new 550 
Chryuanthemunisofeasy 
culture, twelvo .. 550 
Chrysanthemums, six 
good dwarf aingle- 
tlowe ring .. .. 558 


VEGETABLES. 

THE ONION. 

If the amateur were to give a little more 
attention to the growth of the Onion, there 
would not l>e so much need to depend oil 
foreign markets for our supply. There are 
two methods of growing Onions to a very 
large size —one bv sowing in the autumn and 
transplanting the seedlings in the early 
spring, and the other by sowing in boxes 
under gl&wt, if possible, in a gentle heat, pot¬ 
ting the young plants off singly, and, finally, 
turning them out into the open ground. By 
this latter method the seed may be sown to¬ 
wards the end of January—the earlier the 
better, as the longer the period of growth 
the larger will be the bulbs. If this cannot 
be managed, the seed may be sown in the 
open ground early in the year. The drills 
should be drawn about 1 foot apart, ami the 
seed should be sown thinly, in order to avoid 
severe thinning. Those who desire to obtain 
firm bulbs for keeping, should allow 6 inches 
from plant to plant, but for exhibition 
10 inches will not be too great a distance. 
The Onion is very hardy far more so than 
many imagine—and in the open the seed may 
be sown earlier than almost anything else. 
The soil is an important point. A well 
drained soil, containing a good amount of 
rotten manure, is very important, as Onions 
are very gross feeders. It is well to bear in 
mind that while stable-manure is the best 
for heavy soils, cow manure is best for light 
soils. On heavy soils it is advisable to work 
in coal-ashes, road-scrapings, and wood- 
ashes. Onions like a moderately, but not too 
light soil. The ground should be made firm 
after the seed is sown. 

For autumn sow ing the middle of August is 
about the best time, but in the south of 
England the last week in August is quite 
soon enough. Plants from this sowing will 
stand without attention until the spring. 
When sown in the autumn, a space of 
6 inches between the rows will suffice. 
Onions, if grown in loose soil, will have 
thick .“necks,” but very small bulbs. On 
light soil the Onion-fly is. at times, very 
troublesome. It may be checked consider¬ 
ably by digging up all affected plants and 
burning them. If merely pulled up. the 
grubs are apt to be left behind. As the 
Onions are harvested care must Ik*, taken that 
all trimmings are cleared away and burnt. 
One of the best remedies that 1 know to ward 
off the attacks of the dreaded Onion fly is to 
give liberal applications of nitrate of soda, 
applying the fir3t dressing when the plants 
are quite young, following this by another 
about two or three weeks later, and giving a 
third when the bulbs are about half grown. 
This should be applied during wet weather, 
or sprinkled on and well watered in. 

Another very important point in the cul¬ 
ture of the Onion is not to grow it on the 
same ground two years ijr^iecession. Wl ,en 

Digitized by CjCK »glC 


INDEX. 


Conservatory .. .. 558 i 

Evergreens, cutting .. 549 

Ferna .552 

FeniB for the winter 

months.552 

Flower borders in win¬ 
ter, mulching .. .. 555 

Flowers for the home.. 556 
1 Fruit garden .. .. 55i 

Fruit-trees, sewage for 546 
Fruit-trees, treatment 
of neglected .. .. 547 

Fuchsias, keeping, in 

winter..553 

Fungus in lawn .. .. 558 

Garden, a wooden- 

walled.546 

Carden diary, extract* 

I from a.556 


Garden work .. .. 556 

Glen, improving a .. 554 
Greenhouse, plants for 

cold .658 

Gunnera .. .. 554 

Hollies, propagation 

of.558 

Indoor plants .. 552 

l*v and custom .. 557 
Lilium gigantcuiu .. 553 
Lobelia, blue .. .. 555 

Market growing .. .. 55S 

Meadow Sweet (Spinea 
bullala), tho crisp¬ 
leaved .. . .. 549 

Moss in croquet-lawn .. 558 
Mushroom-house, in the 556 
Narcissus Eileen 
! Mitchell .. .. 555 


there is an inclination to late ripening, it is 
advisable to go over tiie bed early in the 
autumn and give each top a slight twist. 
When the tops have died down, lift the bulbs 
carefully, and lay them out in n dry, airy 
place, and then store them in a single layer 
on a dry floor, in nets, or. lretter still, by 
making the old fashioned Onion-pole. The 
bed ought to be trenched to a depth of be¬ 
tween 11 feet, and 3 feet. This should bo 
done some time previous to sowing or plant¬ 
ing. so as to allow time for the whole to 
settle and become firm. There is plenty of 
varieties to choose from. Ailsa Craig is one 
of the largest and l>cst of a globular form, 
and does well when sown in the spring. 
Other fine kinds of the same type are Cran¬ 
ston’s Excelsior, Up to-date, and Trebons. 

Herbert Thackerav. 


POTATO MANURES. 

Can you please inform me whether—(1) There is u 
good artificial manure specially adapted for Potatoes? 
(2) Is there any special advantage in employing uni 
mat manure? (3) Docs the repeated use of chemical 
manures have any injurious effect upon the land so 
treated?—C has. B. Brauci. 

[1 have during the season been experiment¬ 
ing with special Potato manures on half-rows 
of Potatoes of diverse varieties, comparing 
the results with those obtained from uon- 
dressed half-rows, and have found that the 
additional tubers obtained by the manure 
dressings barely paid for the manure. Yet 
we had a dripping season, which should have 
thoroughly dissolved all chemical manures. 
Ill other caws, a dressing of 4 lb. of ground 
lime to a 30-feet row gave nearly as good 
results as did 4 lb. weight of special Potato 
manure. But the use of these artificial 
manures seems to be most beneficial when 
applied in conjunction with animal manure. 
The best test would l>e obtained by planting 
on relatively poor land rows of the same 
variety of Potato-seed tubers of equal size 
obtained from the same source, one or more 
rows being left quite undressed, the same 
number dressed with lime, the same number 
with chemical manure, and the same number 
with a fair average dressing of animal 
manure. The last should l>e forked in and 
mixed with the soil in the furrows a month 
before the planting, and, probably, it would 
lx 1 ! well to serve the chemical manured rows 
in the same w ay. Am one testing these dress¬ 
ings in this way would soon find out which 
form best answered his purpose. We prefer 
a dressing of 30 tons per acre of good, semi 
decayed auimal manure to chemical manures 
of equal cost, although the latter is more 
cheaply carried and dressed on the ground. 
Still, so much depends on the general nature 
of the soil dressed that what may seem best 
on one soil may not be best on another, hence 
personal experiments are always the most 
satisfactory. 

I found the chemically dressed half-rows 
gave much the most luxuriant top growth, 
and, judging by that, the tuber crop should 


Onion, the .. 545 

Outdoor garden.. .. 556 

Outdoor plants .. .. 553 

Palm failing .. .. 558 

Palm, unhealthy .. 553 
Peaches, open-air .. 518 
Pear Emile d'Heyst, or 
Beurrd d'Esperen .. 548 
Pear Hesslo or Hazel .. 517 
Pears grown on saudy 

soil .546 

Pears, some good No- 

rem ber.548 

Plants and dowers .. ."B0 
Plant*, winter-bloom¬ 
ing .552 

Plum Wyodalo .. .. 548 

Potato manures.. .. 545 

Potatoes, soil for .. 546 


Primulas.552 

Ilcd-Bpidor in orchard- 

house .518 

Rhododendrons, twelve 

good .558 

Rose, Caroline Teutoul 
and Home of it* de¬ 
scendant* .. .. 551 

Roses on houw .. .. 551 

Stove .556 

Syriuga iaponica .. 54'i 

Vegetable forcing .. 545 
Vegetable garden ,. 556 
Vino-weevil, the hluck 558 
Vines, renovating old .. 556 

Violet, the Bird's-foot 
Viola podata).. .. 551 

eek's work, tho 
coming.556 


have been relatively far greater than was 
that from the undressed halves ; but it was 
not so, hence rank-grown tops by no means 
indicate the best tuber produce. Still further 
they gave us the greater proportion of 
diseased tubers. For Potatoes generally 1 
greatly prefer liberal manuring, and, of 
course, deep working of the soil, for boiiio 
diverse crop one year, then the ground well 
broken up in the winter, moderately limed, 
then planted with Potatoes without further 
dressing. The crop may not consist of large 
tubers, but what are lifted will lie less 
affected with disease, and be* of good table 
size. The dressing of chemicals as used con¬ 
sisted of bone flour and sulphate of potash, 
in equal parts, the third part made up of 
sulphate of ammonia, Rape meal, and gyp 
sum. The ammonia might well have been 
dispensed with, as it rather promoted top 
growth than tuber growth. 

I think that the repeated use of chemical 
manures without any animal manure does 
starve soil. It is a fact that good animal 
manure applied to soil is the very best dress¬ 
ing available. No doubs Aery much of it is 
before so applied wasted, and if such 
material be tested against chemical manures, 
then the animal dressing comes out badly. 
If you still wish to use a chemical manure, 
ask some manure merchant to supply you 
with one specially suited for Potatoes, using 
it at the rate of, without animal manure, 
from 8 lb. to 9 lb. per rod. If with a mode¬ 
rate dressing of animal manure, then at tho 
rate of from 5 lb. to 6 lb. per rod. To fully 
test the merits of manures, the tubers planted 
should be got from a good growing stock, 
or otherwise justice will not be done.—D.] 


VEGETABLE FORCING. 

1 use the term “forcing,” but in reality the 
more quietly such things as Rhubarb, Aspara¬ 
gus, Potatoes, Seakale. etc., are brought on 
the better the produce. It is early to 
begin, but there is much preparation to bo 
done in advance, such as leaf-collecting, turn¬ 
ing over to let the heat escape before making 
into hot beds, probably the best means of 
forwarding such vegetables mentioned above. 
It is possible to burn the roots of either, if 
the beds are put together too soon, or if too 
much fresh manure is used for the purpose. 
A cartload of such manure should be mixed 
with three times that quantity of fresh fallen 
Oak, Beech, or Spanish Chestnut leaves. Elm 
and Horse Chestnut leaves quickly decay 
when healed, consequently have no lusting 
quality as regards heat. The two should be 
throw n into a conical heap, thoroughly mixed 
together, and after ten days or a fortnight, 
turned afresh, when in a week the hot-bed 
may b© formed. Choose a sunny position, 
and one sheltered from the north and east 
winds, if possible, shaking the litter well to 
pieces as the work proceeds, keeping the 
longest of it on the outer sides so a© to keep 
the bed intact, allowing 18 inches eaeli way 
beyond the gize of the frame, so that, in <•>. • 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


















546 


GARDEA'IJVG ILLUSTRATED. 


December 14, 1907 


of hard weather setting in, a lining may be 
added. 

The height of the bed at the back should 
not be less than 5 feet, and the front 18 inches 
less, so that the sun may play on the gloss. 
Tread the bed well, and place a few boards 
thereon for the frame to rest, so that all may 
settle together. For Potatoes, Carrots, and 
Seakale, 10 inches or 12 inches of light soil 
must be put inside the frame, and allowed 
to become warmed through before planting, 
while for Asparagus some 4 inches of decayed 
leaf-soil will be sufficient, the crowns to* be 
covered with sifted leaf-soil, a space of 
3 inches to 4 inches being allowed for the 
“grass" to push up when preparing the 
frame. This latter item also applies to Pota¬ 
toes and Carrots. Asparagus roots, to give 
good heads, must, not be under 3 years old, 
and should be placed pretty thickly together 
in the frame, taking from 3 weeks to 4 weeks 
to be ready, covering the lights at night to 
prevent frost getting through the glues. 
Keep the frame closed down until growth is 
appearing, when a little fresh air may be 
admitted during the warmest part of each 
day. and, should water be necessary, which 
it seldom is, between November and the 
middle of February, warm it to 80 degs. 
Potatoes need to be sprouted in advance of 
planting by putting into boxes with a little 
leaf-soil, and placed inside the frame, and, 
when ready, plant them 4 inches to 6 inches 
deep, and 10 inches asunder. Soil for Carrots 
should have a little lime and sand mixed with 
it. The seed can either be sown broadcast or 
in shallow drills 4 inches apart at any time 
from the middle of November up to early 
February, choosing the French Forcing for 
the purpose. Radishes may be brought on 
under these conditions. But little advantage 
is gained in sowing before the New Year. 
Seakale must be kept dark, as well as Rhu¬ 
barb, or blanching would be imperfect. It 
is usually brought on in a Mushroom house 
or a slightly warmer structure,where the 
crowns can be syringed several times daily. 

I have brought both of these on in a bed of 
leaves, using shutters instead of glass lights 
for the boxes. The one essential point to 
guard against these two roots is burning or 
over-heating, which causes them to rot or 
decay. In a suitable and even temperature 
of 65 degs. to 70 degs. Seakale may be had 
in three weeks; hut Rhubarb takes as long 
again, not starting away so kindly as the Sea¬ 
kale 

Melon , Devon. James Maine. 


NOTES AND REPLIES . 

8oil for Potatoes —I should be glad if you 
"ould kindly let me know, through the medium of 
your valuable paper, the constituents which soil suit¬ 
able for the cultivation of Potatoes, Yanis, and other 
flour-producing tubers, should consist of?—C ultiva¬ 
tor. 

[We are afraid we ore not in a position to 
give you an answer of the character you ap¬ 
parently desire—that is, if you desire'a com¬ 
plete analysis of soils which grow Potatoes 
well. The truth is that nearly all soils, ex¬ 
cept very heavy clays, are capable of produc¬ 
ing g°nd crops of Potatoes, and the secret of 
success in all cases is efficient working, com¬ 
bined with the supply of ample food, in the 
shape of dung or artificial manures, or a com¬ 
bination of both. If you have a good loamy 
soil, not too heavy, and it is in “good heart," 
you need have no fear of a failure in Potato- 
growing, proper cultivation being given. 
Write to the Secretary of the Board of Agri¬ 
culture, 4, Whitehall-place, London, S.W., 
for Leaflet 173 (issued by the Board) on 
Potato-growing. There is no charge, and 
your own letter need not be stamped.] 

Dust-destructor ash —It is very difficult 
to determine the manurial value of this ash 
without experiments. It is a material of 
modern production, and, probably, lias been, 
for soil fertilisation, little tested. But where 
the materiaL is at hand, it would be easy to 
use it at the rate of half an inch thick, well 
mixed with, say. half a rod of ground, and 
this dressed portion planted with Potatoes in 
the spring, the other half rod being simply 
well dug and similarly planted, no manure 
being added. One such trial would be worth 
twenty surmises. The ash is of such an in¬ 
tensely burned uatTTte that it silms impos- 

Digitize: by (jQ, glC 


sible any fertile elements can be left in it. 
Still, if any, no doubt it would be in the 
form of potash, but in a weak character. It 
might be useful material to intermix with 
stiff clay soils, to help keep them open. It 
will be, undoubtedly, interesting to learn the 
results of any careful test.—D. 


FRUIT, 


SEWAGE FOR FRUIT-TREES. 

In' many gardens the expenses are reduced to 
the lowest possible amount owing to the 
general depression, and frequently the gar¬ 
dener is at a loss for manures in a liquid or 
solid form, and chemical fertilisers are out 
of the question. It is a well known fact that 
unless the soil is well stored with plant-food, 
good crops arc practically impossible. When 
we bear this in mind, it seems strange that 
better means have not been adopted for the 
utilising of such valuable manured as sew'age 
and liquid drainings from manure-heaps, 
cattle-sheds, stables, etc. For orchards, 
sewage is one of the most powerful and best 
manures that we know. Put oil during the 
winter months, it does not injure the trees if 
in a highly concentrated form, and the soil 
assimilates the fertilising elements, so that in 
the spring the roots can seize and feed upon 
it as they become active. If any proof is 
needed as to the value of winter applications 
of sewage or manure-heap drainings, it is 
only necessary to treat one orchard, or a por¬ 
tion of the same, to a good dressing, and 
leave the other untouched; of course, the 
trees to be equal in all respects at the time, 
otherwise the lesson would not be so forcible. 
When we first tried the system of winter 
feeding, we were astonished at the effect on 
the trees the following summer, as they made 
strong growth, with large and bold foliage, 
fruit-buds conspicuous over the whole, being 
followed a year later by a good crop of large, 
clear-skinned, and weil-coloured fruit. Not 
only so, but the trees w r ere not exhausted by 
the fruit, as proved by a full crop each year 
afterwards. Our experience is that when 
trees crop well one year and then miss a year 
or two, the failure is caused by a lack of 
food requisite to maintain their health and 
vigour; and, consequently, a season or two 
is lost while the trees are recovering from 
their exhaustion in producing a crop. If 
given ample supplies of food in the form of 
sewage, liquid-manure, or any other suitable 
thing, the strength of the trees would not 
only be maintained, but materially increased, 
and unless seasons were particularly un¬ 
favourable, good crops might be expected 
annually. The use of sewage for Vine or 
Peach borders produces splendid results in 
skilled hands, as they exercise great care in 
its use; but unless sound judgment is 
brought to bear on its application, serious 
injury may result. Where the soil is fairly 
light and porous, much more may be given 
than would be either safe or advisable on 
heavy land, as the latter may quickly be¬ 
come sour and sodden, and thus work serious 
mischief. When we use any sewage for in¬ 
side borders, it is given in the evening, and 
watered in, leaving a little top ventilation 
on day and night for a few days, this prevent¬ 
ing the ammonia from injuring the foliage. 
The soil is light, and we use the above seve¬ 
ral times during the growing season. Though 
it is safe here, it would not be the same 
everywhere, as we have seen good houses of 
both Vines and Peaches completely ruined 
by its careless application. 

In the kitchen-garden the stimulants men¬ 
tioned are excellent aids in growing full 
crops of tender vegetables, such as Celery, 
Onions, Beans, Cauliflower, and Cabbage. 
For late crops of Cabbage following Peas 
we find sewage a great help, as it promotes a 
quick growth and enables the plants to at 
tain a size able to withstand frost and bad 
weather. In fact, the advantages are so 
numerous that it is difficult to state where 
they end. The great objection to sewage is 
smell, but this can be got over if it is applied 
in wet weather, as it is quickly w ashed into the 
soil, or failing wet, a thin covering of dry 
soil will do away with most of the offensive- 
ness. 


PEARS GROWN ON SANDY SOIL. 
At a recent meeting of the Royal Horticul- 
tural Society there was exhibited a collec¬ 
tion of some two dozen dishes of Pears, 
grown oil the Wisley sand, and on trees two 
years planted and four years from the bud. 
Generally the samples were excellent, some 
being exceptionally so. It was very interest 
ing to note that of two samples of Souvenir 
du Congres Pear shown, by far the finest 
and really a superb sample, came from trees 
worked on the common Pear-stock, those 
from trees worked on the Quince-stock being 
relatively small. That fact may have im¬ 
portant bearing on Pear production on sand, 
assuming that it fully represents the fruiting 
of other varieties, but on that head no 
further information was given, hence it dors 
not do to jump hastily to conclusions. What¬ 
ever may be the effect of the Pear-stock on 
fruit production on sand, most certainly oil 
stiff soil, especially on clay, the Quince stock 
gives the best results. The Wisley trees 
were not flat trained, but of the ordinary bush 
or pyramid form, although all were yet loo 
young to have become fashioned into any 
special shape. In addition to Souvenir rlu 
Congres, there were very handsome samples 
of Marguerite Marrillat, Beurre do Mortillet, 
Triompne de Vienne, . Doyenne Botipsoch, 
Grosse Calebas.se, President Barabe, Presi¬ 
dent de Osmonclville, Beurre Fouqueray, 
Marie Louise, Beurre Jan Van Geert, and 
Louise Bonne of Jersey. It bv no means 
follows that this selection indicates the best 
quality. A few are good, some are indiffer¬ 
ent. Still, we have out of a host of Peais 
far too many that are indifferent, and but a 
few that are really high class. However, in 
growing Pears some consideration has to be 
showm to varieties that will thrive well on 
certain soils, and, as shown at Wisley, whilst 
many will do well on sand, a large propor¬ 
tion may give fruit that, is not of the best. 
The French have flooded us with Pears, but 
much more consideration is needed at once 
for higher flavour, better keeping, and hardi¬ 
ness of constitution. D. 


A WOODEN-WALLED GARDEN. 
The “wooden walls of old England," once 
celebrated in song, have given place to the 
“iron walls " of to-day. The brick walls of 
England still hold sway as indispensable in 
gardens, yet there is a possibility that these 
solid and somewhat expensive erections may 
yet give place to others of concrete and 
wood. It was to see such a wooden wall, 
enclosing a square fruit-garden on its four 
sides, I recently visited Bevendean, Oxshott, 
a pretty residence, occupied by Mr. Ellis, and 
whose gardener is Mr. W. H. Bailey, for¬ 
merly of Reigate Hill and Buccleuch House, 
Richmond. The garden is about an acre in 
area, and stands square to the four points of 
the compass. Only some four years has the 
enclosure been made. The soil is a deep, re¬ 
tentive sand, iii which fruit-trees seem to 
thrive freely, although Mr. Bailey finds it 
I needful to allow material extension in wood 
growth rather than restriction, as such sandy 
soil is not favourable to trees too severely 
pruned. The base of the wood walls is of 
concrete 12 inches thick, and 18 inches out of 
the ground. Stout wood posts of 3-incli 
quartering were fixed into the concrete base, 
just one-half its thickness, and then bolted 
through the other half. In that way these 
uprights are not let into the ground, and are 
kept firm and erect. These uprights or posts 
are 10 feet apart. They and the whole of 
the boarding forming the wall stand 9 feet 
from the soil level. Three rails with angled 
edges run from post to post, the ends being 
mortised in. The boarding its ordinary 1-inch 
floor boards, unplaned. These are nailed to 
the rails, leaving between each an interval of 
half-an-iuch. These openings or partitions 
are covered outside with 3-inch strips of 
wood, thus preventing draughts or cold cur¬ 
rents of air passing between the boards. 
These interstices being thus wide, enable 
them to be kept thoroughly clean and free 
from all forms of insect life—indeed, the 
boards, openings, and trees were, when I saw 
them, very clean. Stout galvanised wires at 
near intervals run crosswise from_ post to 
post, and to these the trained trees are tied, 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



December 14, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


547 


thus avoiding tha use of nails and shreds. 
Every portion of the wall is furnished with 
fruit trees, Apricots, Plums, Cherries, and 
Pears, and every tree robust, clean, and well 
fruited—many, indeed, very heavily. Peaches 
nnd Nectarines are chiefly grown under glas3. 
I have no estimate of the relative cost of such 
9-feet-higli wood walls and of solid brick 
walls of equal height; but no doubt the wood 
wall is much the cheaper, and far more 
rapidly erected. Here the results, as seen 
on the trees and crops, were all that could be 
desired. Iron rods cap the walls, to carry 
fish-netting to protect the fruit from frost 
and birds. A. D. 


PEAR HESSLE OR HAZEL. 

This week we give an illustration of 
that well-known Pear, Hessle or Hazel, 
the name being derived from a vil¬ 
lage in Yorkshire, near where it is 
supposed to have been raised. It has long 
been in cultivation, and, like Aston Town, 
Swan’s Egg, and similar varieties, is a true 
autumn market Pear, and is best grown as an 
orchard standard. Like the varieties just 


tile; it should be grafted on the natural 
stock. It is a heavy bearer, even in the 
worst years.” 


TREATMENT OF NEGLECTED FRUIT 
TREES. 

I have had very little experience in gardening, but 
have lately begun to take a great interest in fruit¬ 
growing. I And that all my trees, which are thirteen 
I or fourteen years old, have been pruned back every 
>ear on the simple plan of cutting every young shoot 
to about two buds. As a result, the trees are a mass 
of spurs and thick growths in the middle, with a 
long fringe of new shoots every year on the outside. 
Scarcely any bear well, and I fear the pruning is 
partly at fault. Does not it crowd them out with 
branches, and form far too many spurs, to cut back 
all the shoots of formed trees? Can I cut out some 
of the superfluous wood, and how should trees be 
pruned in future?—H. N. Hunt. 

[You wouid have materially assisted us had 
I you, in addition to stating how the trees in 
question are pruned, mentioned the particu- 
. lar kinds of fruit-trees, and in what form 
they are trained. We should then have 
1 been in a position to have given you more 
, definite instructions. However, we will ns- 
I eume, by the method of pruning practised on 
I your trees, that they are either Apples or 


smooth afterwards with a knife, and smear¬ 
ing them with paint or tar. With regard to 
this branch-thinning, carefully scrutinise 
each tree before attempting to remove a 
branch, when your eye will soon detect which 
are the superfluous branches, and therefore 
the ones to cut out. We can lay down no 
hard-and-fast rule for you to go upon in rela¬ 
tion to this matter, and, beyond what we 
have said, can only add that all branches 
which have a tendency to cross others and 
crowd the centre of the tree, instead of 
growing outwards, must in any case be cut 
out. Further, as it is essential that sunlight 
and air shall have free access to the interior 
of each tree, the branches, on the completion 
of the thinning, should not be nearer to¬ 
gether than from 2 feet to 3 feet, this varying 
according to the length of each individual 
branch. The great aim in the training of 
pyramid and bush fruit-trees is to have the 
branches so disposed that they shall be even¬ 
tually wide enough apart to* allow of their 
being clothed with fruiting spurs throughout 
their entire length. If grown on this prin¬ 
ciple, overcrowding cannot occur, and the 
trees are then invariably highly productive. 



l J ear Hessle. 


quoted, Hessle is a heavy cropper, ar.d, being 
very hardy, seldom fails to bear. In cold 
districts, where the choicer varieties of Pears 
succeed blit indifferently, Hessle should be 
grown, and it may be depended on to hear 
well in all ordinary seasons. As our illus¬ 
tration is a very faithful representation of 
this Pear, no comment is needed as to size. 
The skin is yellowish-green, marked with 
russety dots (the fruit on the right hand in 
the cut plainly showing this peculiarity). 
The flesh is yellow ish-wdiite, juicy, richly 
flavoured, and in some examples has a fine 
aroma. Two years since some specimens sent 
us from Yorkshire for identification had the 
two last named qualities developed to a high 
degree—in fact, we have never tasted such 
high-flavoured fruits of this variety before 
nor since. Hessle is in season the latter half 
of September and early in October, the time 
varying according to season and locality. 

- M. DesfoRse, of Desfosse-Thuillier, 

Fils, et Cie., Orleans, sends us the follow¬ 
ing : “I have known, for the past forty or 
forty-five years, old trees of this sort, aged 
100 years to 150 years. They say there are 
some very old trees of 
very far from Orleans. 

Digitize: bj 


I hey say there are 
f i t in existence not 

KSoc wale 


Pears; and, if both, the advice tendered 
! below will be applicable to either. We also 
imagine, by the way you describe the trees, 

I they have been trained as pyramids. It is 
evident, on again perusing your note, that 
| both the training ami pruning have been car- 
I ried out on rule-of-thumb principles, other- 
! wise the trees would not be in such an un¬ 
fruitful condition, as fruit-trees of the age 
you name should be in their prime now, and 
j yielding of their best. The fault lies in not 
I having had the branches properly regulated 
and thinned out as the trees developed, also 
] in neglecting to practise a certain amount of 
I disbudding, instead of allowing all growths 
. to develop at will, and afterwards cutting 
j them back to two buds, which lias produced 
the congested condition of the spurs you 
I allude to. You will have all this to undo, 
so to speak,, and as the remedy cannot be 
j otherwise than a tax on the energies of the 
I trees, the work must necessarily be spread 
I over two seasons. This winter, or ns soon 
as you can make it convenient, you had better 
thin out the branches, and next, year you may 
| effect a reduction of the spurs where 
crowded. Use a good sharp pruning-saw, 
and make clean cut9, paring the wounds 


After the thinning is done, we should ad¬ 
vise you to spray the trees, if you have not 
hitherto adopted winter cleansing, as this 
will rid them of numbers of insect foes, as 
well as free them of Moss and Lichen. Next 
summer, when the spurs begin to put forth 
young growths, go carefully over them, and. 
when about G inches in length, remove all the 
weakest, and thin down the remainder, so 
that, if there are. say, nine shoots on one of 
the crowded spurs you mention, you may 
reduce them to four or five in number. Pull 
these superfluous growths clean out, which Is 
easily done by giving them a twist with the 
finger and thumb. Leave the shoots you re¬ 
tain until August., when out them back to 
three buds. Any growth made after this cut 
back to one bud. When next autumn comes 
round, the crowded spurs should be thinned 
out, and in some cases, where they stand 
quite close together, one here and there may 
be cut. clean away. This will greatly 
strengthen the fruit buds on these retained, 
the good effects of which will be seen in due 
course by the increased vigour of the blos¬ 
soms, and in the latter being able to set 
fruit with freedom. It would also be advan¬ 
tageous to allow the leading growths at the 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 






548 


GJBDEJYIJVG ILLUSTRATED. 


December 14, 1907 


ends of the branches to have every latitude 
until autumn, and then cut them back to 
within a foot of the branches. Another way 
to increase vigour and fruitfulness i« to en¬ 
courage the roots as near to the surface as 
possible bv the tipreading of a 3-inch layer of 
well rotted manure under each tree to as far 
a« the branches extend, after having removed 
a corresponding depth of soil, which should 
be afterwardti cast on top of the manure. 
The roots will soon find their way into and 
appreciate this manurial mulch, and, as such 
roots are ahvavfl of a fibrous nature, they 
enable the trees to bring their crops to the 
greatest perfection. In the future treatment 
of the trees, you cannot do better than adopt 
the advice already given ns to disbudding. 
Summer prune the trees in August, cutting 
the growths hack to three buffs then, and 
after growths to one bud, which will leave 
you little or no winter pruning to do beyond 
a general looking over to shorten back any 
pieces of wood found to he unduly long. 
Leading shoots may be left a trifle longer— 
say, from three to four buds—on fully estab¬ 
lished trees. If you have any doubts as to 
your ability in putting the above recom¬ 
mendations into force, call to your aid a man 
who nas had practical experience rather than 
run the risk of ruining the trees. 

We have replied at much greater length 
than we intended, as there are, doubtless, 
others of our readers who have fruit trees in 
similar condition, it Wing rather a common 
occurrence, and who would he glad to know 
how to deal with them.] 


SOME GOOD NOVEMBER PEARS. 

In the month of November many of our best 
Pears are in season. It is true September 
gives us Williams’ Bon Chretien and Jar¬ 
gonelle, but there is not in these the flavour 
found in a well grown Doyenne du Cornice, a 
perfect Marie Louise, the small, but de¬ 
liciously aromatic, Seckle, or a finely-grown 
Beurre Superfin. Perhaps one reason why 
these November Pears are so much prized is 
because there is much less variety of dessert 
fruit, available, compared to wlmt we have in 
late summer and early autumn. Though for 
individual purposes a large choice of varie¬ 
ties is not necessary, there is considerable 
advantage in having a less limited assort¬ 
ment, for all are not alike hardy or regular in 
their cropping. 11 thus happens that when 
the season is a fickle one. there may be an 
absolute dearth when only a few sorts are 
grown. I will mention a few of the very best 
of the November kinds, but there are others 
which we cannot. nfTord to neglect. One in 
particular, Beurre Hardy, is favoured by 
every class of consumer. From California, 
too, this Pear comes in large quantities, and 
in fine condition. It is a Pear which in some 
soils develops a bright crimson check; in 
others it has a dull, russetv skin, not exter¬ 
nally attractive. As a standard in the 
orchard it does splendidly, fruiting heavily 
and regularly, while its growth is vigorous 
and healthy. A handsome Pear is Beurre 
Alexandre Lucas. On a wall and in suitable 
soil it will sometimes assume a pretty crim¬ 
son-flushed cheek, but its normal colour is a 
pale golden tint. It has a flavour partaking 
somewhat- of that of the well known Louise 
Bonne, and, judging from external character¬ 
istics, there would seem to be somewhat 
similar parentage. Similar in size and 
shape, and favouring somewhat, in colour 
Beurre Hardy, is Direeteur Hardy, which, 
if anything, is richer in colour and hand¬ 
somer in outline. Much as 1 value Beurre 
Hardy. I still reserve a small space for this 
one. Cordon training seems to bring out its 
best characters. Emile d'Heyst l>oars some 
resemblance to Marie Louise, and for open 
bush culture can be depended on, as it is so 
hardy and free fruiting. Marie Louise 
d’Uecle does extremely well in some locali¬ 
ties, fruiting early and regularly, and, when 
well grown, is a handsome Pear. It is a 
variety 1 have had poor success with, by rea¬ 
son of the birds, which seem particularly 
partial to this kind, taking the fruits quite 
early in the summer. Pi tin ns ton is one of 
the largest, and for this reason one of the 
greatest fa von rib’s in the market, but the 
less one savs of UiHIavour the bftter. Thomp- 

Digitized'bi GOOglC 


son’s, on the other hand, is deficient in ex¬ 
ternal beauty ; but who, having tasted really 
good tipecimens, will forget the quality? 
Duchess d’Angouleme some cling to as being 
a desirable Pear. Well-developed specimens 
of this kind are certainly handsome and 
heavy, but I find it so poor in quality from 
open air trees that I do not grow it. Winter 
Nelis is the connoisseurs’ Pear. Size does 
not recommend it, but its superb quality, 
especially when grown, ns it should be, on a 
wall, is well known. Beurre Dumont is a 
less familiar Pear for November, but one 
which has distinct all-round merit. 

From the foregoing list it will be found 
what a good assortment there is of really fine 
Pears to ripen in the month ; indeed, the 
l>est of the Pears come in in November, 
though there are distinctly high class fruits 
available earlier and Inter. 

W. Struoneix. 


NOTES AND KEDLTES. 

Red spider in orchard house. My orchard- 
house, containing Peach-trees, was badly infected last 
summer with red-spider. Kindly inform mo what 
treatment I had better adopt now to trees, walls, and 
wood-work to get rid of this pest?—T. K. W. 

[The presence of red-spider on your trees 
denotes that they have been kept too dry at 
the roots, and also that syringing has been 
neglected. Nothing will subdue red-spider 
more quickly than cold water regularly anti 
forcibly applied with a syringe or garden- 
engine. This you should have done imme¬ 
diately you noticed any traces of the pest. 
The border in which the trees are growing 
should have a good soaking of water, ana 
take care that the soil does not become dry 
again. As soon as the trees have been 
pruned, wash all the wood, young and old. 
with a solution of Gishurst Compound, 3 oz. 
to the gallon, and see that the compound is 
dissolved. Use it warm, but not so hot. as to 
injure the buds. Use a brush for the thick 
brunches, and work the compound into all 
the crevices. You must wash the young 
wood rare fully with a sponge, drawing it 
towards the tips of the shoots, so as not to 
injure tlie buds. When you have completed 
the trees, wash the paint with the same mix¬ 
ture and the walls with hot lime wash, to 
which 1ms been added some sulphur. Re¬ 
move a few inches of the old soil of the bor¬ 
der, and replace with fresh turfv loam.] 

Plum Wyedale. — I am much pleased to see 
an appreciative note respecting the merits of 
this valuable late cooking Plum from “An 
Old Hand,” and am in entire accord with 
him as to its being a variety which should 
he better known. When grown either as a 
Fail-trained tree agninst, a wall or as a cordon, 
it makes a quantity of small, twiggy growths, 
and hears profusely. The fruit hangs well, 
and will remain in good condition on the 
trees in a mild autumn till the third week in 
November. Coe’s Late Red is another late 
variety, which will hang quite as late as the 
preceding, hut does not compare favourably 
with it in point of flavour. It is, however, a 
useful late cooking sort and a great bearer. 
There is yet another very late ripening Plum, 
which, though seldom seen, is worthy of a 
place in every garden collection, and that is 
Late Rivers. The fruits are somewhat small, 
almost black in colour, and, for such a late 
variety, richly flavoured. 1 have never 
grow'n it other than as a bush, and in this 
form of tree it was a constant and heavy 
cropper. The fruit will hang well till the 
second week in November, and keep for ten 
days afterwards in the fruit-room if required. 
Growers, instead of planting so many early 
and midsummer varieties, Rhould turn their 
attention to later maturing sorts, of which— 
putting on one side altogether the three 
named above—there is now a good number to 
select from.—A. W. 

- ‘‘An Old Hand” (November 23rd, p. 

508) reminds me of an omission in my notes 
on Plums recently. I admit the omission 
was not justified, but. presumably, my mind 
was more particularly centred on dessert 
kinds than on cooking Plums. Wyedale is 
too good a Plum to remain unnoticed, for it 
is hardy, free lieamig, and late. I gathered 
my crop from standard-grown trees in mid- 
Novemlier, ami it would have been po«-si^>1^ 


to have left the fruits till nearer the end of 
the month, could one foretell the weather. 
Gathered, however, iii a sound state, they 
would keep for some time in a dry room, and 
continue useful in the kitchen, affording an 
agreeable change from Apples. The tree is. 
as “An Old Hand” says, compact in growth, 
and with me does not assume that unwieldy 
vigour some other kinds do. and for this rea¬ 
son should be useful in the amall garden. 
There is no need to occupy valuable wall 
space with this Plum, because it is quite 
capable of resisting the cold and other in¬ 
fluences which tell against some of the 
choicer varieties. In a raw state it is abso¬ 
lutely flavourless, yet, when cooked, it is very 
good. It can be grown to advantage in 
standard form ; indeed, this seems to suit it 
best.—W. S. 

Pear Emile d’Heyst, or Beurre d’Esperen. 

—It is somewhat strange that the merits of 
this Pear are not more generalh' recognised, 
seeing that the fruits are not only large, but 
that they possess a very high flavour. In 
addition to thio, the variety bears freely ami 
regularly, the only drawback being that it 
is not what may be termed a vigorous 
grower. Under good cultivation, this defect 
can be in a great measure overcome, and ono 
or more trees should be in every collection to 
supply fruit for table at this season of the 
year. Several cxctdlent dishes of typical fruits 
have come under mv notice this autumn at 
fruit exhibitions, and I was glad to see them 
staged in the company of what are generally 
conceded to be the cream of the varieties in 
cultivation at the present day. It succeed< 
w’ell as a lnish or pyramid on the Quince- 
stock. and, if desired, it can he grown as a 
standard on a warm soil. It is also a success 
grown either as a cordon or espalier.—W. K. 

Apple Newton Wonder. -No new Apple, 
perhaps, hafl become so popular without 
l>eing in any sense boomed. Merit alone ac¬ 
counts for this progress, which is certainly 
well deserved. Newton Wonder does not 
rank among th * largest of Apples, but it Icaes 
nothing because of thin, for w hat is lost in 
abnormal size is amply made uphill regularity 
and evenness of crop. It is by no means 
tiniall. but on a good tree, well attended to, 
the fruits are of medium size, ample for all 
home purposes. In outline it is distinctly 
smooth, and well-coloured where the surface 
is exposed to the sun. Like son\e of the free 
bearers, it will give a heavy crop one year, 
and take a rest the next, but} if thinning 
could bo practised early in the summer, mure 
regular cropping would follow, il have, even 
in the alternate yearn, had a light, crop on 
the trees. It is a curious fact that when the 
crop of such prolific kinds is light, there is 
no increase in the size of the fewer fruits, 
which one might reasonably expect. No 
cooking Apple that I know can be more 
strongly recommended to the planter of tretv 
this autumn than Newton Wonder. It not 
only crops freely, has a handsome appear¬ 
ance-, and cooks well, but it can be had over 
a long season, which is a point of much value 
in a winter Apple. The tree has a splendid 
constitution, and grows strongly; hut, judg¬ 
ing from my own experience, failure to crop, 
so often associated with vigour, is not found 
in Newton Wonder.—W. S. 

Open-air Peaches. —In my suburban garden. with 
a G-feet wall all round it. I have induced my gardener 
to place a trellis nhove the wall. Two Peach-trees and 
one Apricot were growing freely nliove the wall which 
faces the west. 1 fastened sacking to the trellis to 
protect the trees from the east winds. This year I 
have had a tine crop of fruit on these trees, amt the 
handsomest and best Peaches—quite a dozen - grt-w 
above the wall.—E alixg. 

Apple Millers Seedling. - An Apple with .more 
than average merit, and yet little known, is Miller > 
Seedling, a variety having a waxy, bright-golden skin, 
marked more or leas with streaks and flushings or 
crimson, it is strange that, in view of the scarcity 
of good Apples in September, this Apple has not be¬ 
come more common. There are some that by »■-> 
means compare with it which arc loudly boomed, i 
find that in the market, once this is tasted, there• w 
inquiry for more, and w hen colour is developed totn< 
full, there is much attractiveness in a *ampi'■ 
whether this be a small or large one. It can he e.itci 
direct from the tree.—W. 8. 

Index to Volume XXVIII. The binding cove'' 
(price Is. Gil. each, post free. Is. 0d.) and lndt-x (• 
post free. SJd.I for Volume XXVIII. are now 1 
and may “be had of all newsagents, or of the i 


VFR’SflYOF 'ILL'fMtJl S j 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



December 14, 1907 


GA RDJiJV'lJV'G IL L VST RATED. 


.919 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 

SYRINGA JAPONICA. 

To the popular mind, with little or no know¬ 
ledge of plant nomenclature, the . name 
Syringa is applied to the different forms of 
the Mock Orange (Philadelphus), but especi¬ 
ally to the European member of the family, 
A*, eoronarius. It, however, really belongs 
to the Lilac, the true botanical name of the 
common one being Syringa vulgaris. This, 
which originally came from Eastern Europe, 
is represented in our gardens by many varie¬ 
ties, whose flowers range in colour from pure 
white to purplish crimson, both single and 
double blossoms being represented among 
them. There are many other species in culti¬ 
vation, most, of which are natives of Eastern 
Asia, including Japan. It is not, however, 
my intention to treat of all these different 
kinds, but rutlier to call attention to a very 
limited number which form quite a group by 
themselves. Though the foliage of the mem 


Though by no means a stock plant in nur¬ 
series, S. japonica can he obtained at a com¬ 
paratively cheap rate from those establish¬ 
ments where a specialty is made of the 
rarer hardy trees and shrub3. It was first 
introduced into this country through the 
Arnold Arboretum, and has become an es¬ 
tablished favourite in the States, where so 
many Japanese plants thrive particularly 
well. We are told by Professor Sargent that 
in its native country it is rather common in 
the deciduous forests on the hills of Central 
Yezo, and occasionally on the high mountains 
of Hondo. In a state of nature the Japanese 
Lilac is, by the same authority, said, when 
fully grown, to be an unshapely, straggling 
tree, 25 feet to 30 feet in height, with a 
trunk rarely 12 inches to 18 inches in diame¬ 
ter, and does not possess the beauty it shows 
in New England gardens. 

Syringa amurensis.— This, the oldest 
species of the section to which S. japonica 
belongs, is a native of Manchuria, and was 
discovered just half a century ago. It was 



A flowptinfr shoot, of Seringa japonica. 


not the equal of the common Lilac when at 
its best. Granting all this', S. japonica is, 
from its late season of flowering, profusion 
of blossoms, and distinct appearance, well 
worthy of being better known than it is. 


CUTTING EVERGREENS. 

About Christmas time and early in the new 
year there is usually a demand for Ever¬ 
greens to use in various ways for festive de¬ 
corations. A few notes as to the cutting of 
them may not he out of place. When there 
is a choice, a fine day should, if possible, be 
chosen. The work of cutting can then be 
performed with far greater comfort, while 
at the same time it can also he done more 
carefully. It is a description of work that is 
oftentimes done in a perfunctory or hap¬ 
hazard manner, with no real thought either 
as to the after appearance of the shrubs or 
their future well-being. Of course, what 
holds good in one kind does not also do so 
in another, while varied forms and styles of 
growth should also he considered. in my 
own case I have for several years been aim¬ 
ing at cutting Hollies so as to get the trees 
(for trees they are) into more of a pyramidal 
shape, not formal, as in clipped trees, hut 
so much so as to give every opportunity for 
the lower branches to spread out and not he 
overshadowed by the branches above them. 
In this way I have under my care a number 
of well-furnished specimens from 20 feet to 
30 feet and even more in height. These con¬ 
sist of the common Holly, the silver varie¬ 
gated, and the yellow-fruited kind. The soil, 
a light one, resting on gravel, suits them very 
well. Aucubas I find do best when they have 
plenty of room to develop into dense hushes ; 
these when too tall are beheaded, 2 feet nr 
3 feet being taken off the tops. Young 
growths will follow in due course. With 
Laurels, a medium course of cutting is bet¬ 
ter, in my opinion, than either of the two 
extremes—viz., that of constant summer 
pruning to keep them, as it were, in accord¬ 
ance with some architect’s plan, or excessive 
cutting down, as a woodman would do it, 
leaving everything bare for a time. A deal 
may l>e done with Yews to keep them from 
extending too wide, when the space is limited, 
by merely cutting out the leading shoots. 
By the same process the Box trees can he 
retained in a bushy and dense condition with¬ 
out. being in any sense formal. When shrubs 
are taken in hand in time, bv judicious thin- 
g out here and there, it will take years be¬ 
fore they arrive at a size when a more radical 
course will he found necessary. This infor¬ 
mal kind of priming regulates the growth of 
the shrubs and prevents strong shoots from 
taking the lead to the weakening of the rest, 
with the consequent after results of a bare¬ 
ness both undesirable and unsightly also. It 
frequently happens that shrubs are left more 
to chance than anything else. As long as 
they look well at the time, be they ever so 
crowded, there is no thought given as to the- 
future. This is a great mistake, the after 
effects of which cannot he so easily remedied. 

T. 


hers of this section is essentially that of the 
Lilac, the inflorescence reminds one, to a 
certain extent, of the Privet; in fact, the 
two are, from a botanical standpoint, very 
nearly related. Botanists include these last- 
named in a sub-section by themselves, under 
the name of Ligustrina (Privet-like). Far 
and away the best of this group as an orna¬ 
mental shrub or tree is the species herewith 
figured, 

Syringa japonica, which has been grown 
to a limited extent in our gardens for the 
lust five-and-twenty years or more. Like the 
common European species, this is inclined to 
bo of a shrubby character, hut, if trained to 
a single stem, it promises to develop into a 
small tree. As may be seen by the accom¬ 
panying illustration, the leaves are like those 
of the common Lilac, while the flowers, indi¬ 
vidually small, and creamy-white in colour, 
are borne in large, branching panicles. 
Their perfume more nearly approaches that 
of the Privet than the Lilac, and they are at 
their best in June and July, when all tin* 
varieties of the common kind mpc over. 

Google 


a few years after this before it was intro 
dueed into European gardens, by wav of the 
Botanic Gardens, St. Petersburg, which, in 
the time of the late I)r. Regel. played a pro¬ 
minent part in the introduction of many 
Asiatic plants. A close ally of S. japonica, 
i this species is distinguished therefrom by 
the obtuse lobes of the corolla. It is also 
smaller growing, and starts into growth 
earlier. For this reason it. is more likely to 
have the young buds injured hv late spring 
frosts. 

| Syringa pekinensis. A native of the 
! mountains of Northern China, this was ori¬ 
ginally discovered by l’Abbe David. It. is 
distinguished from the others by its longer 
and more slender branches, which give to it 
quite a different outline. The ovate leaves, 
borne on long petioles, are dark green in 
colour. The flowers are white, and produced 
in dense panicles. There is a variety of this 
(pendula) of a pronounced weeping habit. 

Though, as above stated, the finest of this 
section is S. japonica, yet even this is, as far 
as its ornamental qualities *re concerned, 


The crisp-leaved Meadow Sweet (Spirrea 
bullata).—A charming and distinct little 
shrub, even among the beautiful members of 
the shrubby section of Spiraeas, is S. bullata. 
often called crispifolia, which few people who 
see it out of bloom would consider one of 
the genus, so distinct are its neat little 
crisped and wrinkled leaves. Then, the 
little heads of flowers are of a deep yet bright 
red. The shrub rarely reaches to more than 
a couple of feet, and is generally consider¬ 
ably less. It is very hardy, and one in my 
garden is in one of the mast exposed positions 
I can give it, and yet it thrives and flowers 
freely each season. It is a pity such a beau¬ 
tiful'little shrub has a fault, hut it must he 
said that a failing is that many of its 
branches die off in most gardens, and new 
growth has to come from the base. This is 
not the case everywhere, hut a little pruning 
soon makes the plant shapely. It is a Japan¬ 
ese species, and is quite one of the plants 
which would give a native character to the 
Japanese garden, which, by the way, is not 
too often oharae(eri^t|ic when made by the 
Briton.—S. A, 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


LHC II 








C50 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


I)i?cembeh 14, 1907 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

NATURALLY-GROWN PLANTS. 

The Chrysanthemum shows of 1907 are 
over, and once again preparations have com¬ 
menced for the fight of next autumn. To 
half, and perhaps three fourths of the 
Chrysanthemum growers of this country the 
exhibition is the only goal that is to be 
reached. Many days of careful watching and 
unnecessary anxiety have to be gone through 
before the exhibitor can rest satisfied that lie 
has even a chance in a great competition. 
As the years roll on, this training, stopping, 
harmful feeding, and unnatural development 
of the plants become more and more severe. 
The standard that was considered good a few 
years ago is ridiculed in the present age of 
“big things,” and the result will be a tre¬ 
mendous reaction, when gardeners and 
raisers will see the folly of the game they 
played with a plant that is fast losing a 
beauty of an unexampled type. Every year it 
becomes a matter of '“size.” A flower, un¬ 
less it is large and, to use a common expres¬ 
sion, of bold proportions, is tossed on one 
side as of no value, whereas it may be doubly 
as beautiful as the hard, full, and stiff repre¬ 
sentatives of the several types that are the 
exhibitor’s beau ideal of true perfection. It 
is very easy to see the result of this selfish 
policy. Each section has an absurdly high 
standard of formality to which every raiser 
and every cultivator must strive to attain. 
The result is, the Pompons are becoming as 
hard and ugly as the more formal of the 
incurved; the reflexed are developing into 
huge balls of petals, as pleasing to the 
nrtist’s eye as a glass globe; the Japanese 
are forced entirely out of reasonable limits; 
in fact, everything is sacrificed to size. .This 
kind of frenzy must have an end. The geo¬ 
metric bedding craze received a crushing 
blow when the eyes of the public were opened 
to its untruthfulness and hideous formality. 
So it will be with the Chrysanthemum. The 
grower has striven until the climax has been 
reached. The public will soon sicken of the 
specimens of flowers that are called " beauti¬ 
ful,” and instead we shall have a smaller 
bloom that, we may call "natural,” because 
its intrinsic beauty is not crushed by a 
barbarous course of stopping, feeding, and 
tying. A house filled with exhibition plants 
resembles a forest of tall sticks, each stem 
having a flower poised on top. If this bloom 
is destroyed, the labour spent over that plant 
is gone. T. 


NEW CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

The list of new Chrysanthemums, published 
in Gardening Illustrated of November 
9th last, can now be supplemented with 
another equally interesting collection of pro¬ 
mising novelties, many of which were exhi¬ 
bited for the first time at the show of the 
National Chrysanthemum Society, held at 
the Crystal Palace on November 6tli, 7th, 
and 8th last. The member* of the floral com¬ 
mittee had submitted to them for adjudica¬ 
tion a large number of first-class flowers, of 
which only a very few received the coveted 
first-class certificate. The standard of quality 
is well maintained, so that the recipient of 
this award must, be something quite above 
the ordinary. The subjoined list embraces 
the best of those seen on the occasion referred 
to : — 

George Mtleham (1908).-The date ap¬ 
pended to this name is to distinguish the new 
variety from an old yellow sort distributed 
under the name of George Mileham. The 
flower under notice is a Japanese incurved, 
having broad florets of good length neatly 
and pleasingly incurving ; colour, canary- 
yellow. F.C.C., November 6th. 

Freda Bedford.— This is a pretty market 
variety, having florets of medium breadth, 
neatly reflexing and drooping. In the full 
light the colour is a warm tone of deep 
apricot. F.C.C., November 6th. 

Felton’s Favourite. —The committee re¬ 
garded this as a market variety, as it is not 
large enough for exhibition. The florets ap¬ 
pear to be somewhat stiff, crisp, and reflex- 

Google 


ing ; colour, glistening creamy-white. F.C.C., 
November 6th. 

Marjorie Gouldsmith.— This is another 
very promising Japanese incurved flower cf 
deep build, having florets of splendid breadth. 
The colour is ivory-white. The committee 
wished to see this variety again. 

Rose Pockett.— A variety evidently of 
Australian origin, and belonging to the 
Japanese spetion. The colour is a pretty 
buff yellow. The committee also wish to see 
this variety again. 

Romance belongs to the incurved section, 
and is classified as such. It has fairly broad 
petals, and the colour is a rich canary-yellow. 
From an early bud selection the florets are 
pointed, but from a later selection the petals 
arc somewhat rounded at the tips—a trait in 
their character that all good growers of in¬ 
curved blooms like to see. Early blooms are 
not unlike those of Chas. H. Curtis, but, as 
shown on this occasion, the flowers were quite 
distinct from those of that variety. F.C.C., 
November 6th. 

W. J. Higgs. —This has broad, neatly-in¬ 
curving petals. The lower petals, however, 
were rather rough. The colour may be de¬ 
scribed as bronzy-claret. 

Maurice J. Cole.—T his many readers will 
appreciate at its proper worth, because it is 
a bronzy-yellow sport from W. A. Ethering- 
ton, a Japanese variety. The colour is more 
interesting than that seen in the flowers of 
the parent variety. 

Single-Flowering Varieties 
were exhibited in large numbers, and that 
there should be no mistake in making awards 
the whole of the novelties were placed to¬ 
gether, and the better sorts selected from 
among them. Those that received special 
recognition were the following : — 

White Edith. —A large-flowered single of 
good form, developed on stiff, erect flower- 
stalks. The plant does well either disbudded 
or undisbudded. The flowers are of the 
purest white, with bright yellow' disc. F.C.C., 
November 6th. 

Crown Jewel Improved. This is a very 
fine type of large-flowered single, and a great 
improvement on those that have preceded it. 
The floret* are rather brood and slightly 
pointed ; colour, terra-cotta, tipped gold. 
F.C.C., November 6th. 

E. Nottkll. A handsome, large flowered 
single of good form, and free-flowering, as 
represented bv the sprays exhibited. Th^ 
colour is a pretty tone of primrose-yellow. 
F.C.C., November 6th. 

Elsie Matthews.—A nother fine, large 
flowered single, useful alike for exhibition or 
for decoration. The colour may be described 
as pale chestnut with a yellow centre. 

C. Roi.UANT.- A welcome addition to the 
large-flowered single varieties. The form in 
this case is excellent, and the colour a charm¬ 
ing rosy-carmine with yellow centre. F.C.C., 
November 6th. 

A. Howard. This belongs to the large- 
flowered single type of Chrysanthemum ; 
petals long and of medium width; colour, 
deep rose with yellow centre. Commended, 
November 6th. 

Mrs. Harris. —This belongs to the large- 
flowered single type-, and is promising ; colour, 
Tieh yellow, with bronzy-yellow reverse. 
This the committee wished to see again. 

_A. R. H. 

NOTES AND HE PLIES. 

Chrysanthemums for various purposes.— 

Please inform me through the medium of your paper 
the best varieties of Chrysanthemums to grow to be 
shown in the following classes:—(I) Twelve varieties 
any kind to be shown in bunches not disbudded? 
(2) Six varieties single? (3) Six varieties incurved? 
When to pinch and what huds to retain to have 
them at their best about second week of November?— 
Df.f.sidk. 

[(1) Twelve varieties of any kind of Chrys¬ 
anthemum m to lie shown in bunches, and not 
disbudded, should embrace free flowering 
kinds, and the blossoms should be of good 
form and colour. For this purpose we re¬ 
commend the following varieties : —Caprice 
du Printemps, rose, a favourite variety for 
market; Kathleen Thompson, rich crimson- 
red, tipped gold, sport from the first-named 
variety; Source d’Or, a well-known bright 
orange-shaded gold sort ; Lizzie Adcock, a 
brilliant yellow sport from the last named ; 


[ Crimson Source d’Or, a bright crimson sport 
from Source d’Or; Soleil d’Octobre, bright 
can ary-yellow, large flower; Bronze Soleil 
d’Octobre, a soft bronzv-fawn sport from 
the last-named; Market Red, a velvety metal¬ 
lic red flower of splendid quality ; Mile. M. 
Fabre, a rosy-pink variety; Miss Mary God¬ 
frey, clear canary-yellow; Viviand Morel, 
silvery mauve-pink; and Chas. Davis, a rosy- 
bronze sport from the last named. The fere- 
going sorts should lie propagated in good 
time, and be flowered from a terminal bud 
selection. (2) For six varieties of single- 
flowered Chrysanthemums you may acquire 
the undermentioned with confidence:—Edith 
Pagram, a beautiful pink, with white zone 
round disc; Bronze Pagram. a lovely red¬ 
dish-bronze sport from the last-named ; Mira 
Irene Cragg, a pure white kind ; Miss Mary 
Anderson, blush-white ; Mary Richardson, a 
distinct variety of a reddish-salmon colour ; 
and Miss Annie Holden, a pale jellow sport 
from Miss Mary Anderson. You should pro¬ 
pagate the foregoing singles in good time, and 
grow them on to the terminal buds. We have 
selected varieties that should flower thus far 
north by the second week in November. (J) 
It is not so easy to select six incurved varie¬ 
ties to flower about the second week in No¬ 
vember. We recommend, however, the ful- 
lowing :—Buttercup, rich buttercup-yellow 
(first crown) ; Einbleme Poitcvene, canary- 
yellow (second crown) ; W. Paseoe, soft lilac- 
pink (first crown); Frank Hammond, rc«y- 
bronze, with yellow centre (first crown); 
Mrs. C. Crooks, pure white (first crown) ; 
and Mrs. W. Higgs, silvery-pink, shaded rcse 
(first crown). Plants marked “second 
crown” should be pinched at the end of 
March, and second crown buds retained, and 
those marked “first crown” should be 
pinched quite early in May, and first crown 
buds retained.] 


Twelve Chrysanthemums of easy culture — 

Will you kindly give me the names of twelve Chrys¬ 
anthemums, dwarf, easy to grow, and to flower in 
November and December? Those with moderate-sized 
blooms would, perhaps, be best, as the large exhibi¬ 
tion kinds, excepting F. S. Vallis nnd Mrs. T. Miller, 
have not done well with me this year.—J. M. R. 

[Of course, you understand the plants must 
be stood in a good, open, sunny position 
during the summer and early autumn. To 
make nice, bushy plants, we should advise 
you to pinch the shoots two or three times, 
commencing when the plants are 6 inches to 
8 inchc3 high, giving the final pinching dur 
ing the last week in June. By these means 
you should obtain really beautiful flowers 
from a terminal bud selection during the 
period above mentioned. We recommend the 
following sorts: Caprice du Printemps, a 
free - flowering dwarf plant, colour rich 
rose. Kathleen Thompson, a rich crimson- 
red sport, florets tipped gold, from the first- 
inentioned variety. Both varieties are of the 
easiest culture. Money-maker is a pure 
white variety, that the market growers think 
very highly of. Market Red is a velvety, 
metallic red, with bronze reverse; Mrs. 
Greenfield is a lovely rich yellow sort of the 
finest quality; Nagoya is a deep yellow 
flower, and especially good for December dis¬ 
plays ; Framfield Pink, also known under the 
name of Mine. Felix Perrier, is a charming 
soft pink-coloured flower; Mile. Louise Char- 
vet is one of the best December-flowering 
pink sorts; and Comte F. Larani is a pleas¬ 
ing soft rosy-pink sort of the easiest culture, 
and dwarf. A good November-flowering kind 
is Western King, a pure glistening white 
Japanese incurved. Bronze Soleil d’Octobre 
is a distinct and pretty shade of bronzy-fawn, 
and red Soleil d’Ootobro is a beautiful terra¬ 
cotta coloured sport from the well-known 
yellow Soleil d’Octobre.] 

Chrysanthemum Holmes' White.-Those in 
need of white Chrysanthemum blooms towards the 
end of August and early in September should grow 
the variety mentioned at the head of this note. The 
flowers are pure white, of good size, and do not 
droop, n.s is the case with some varieties. The plant* 
are dwarf habited and very free-flowering. For cut¬ 
ting it is excellent. —A. W. 

Chrysanthemum Tucks wood Early— This Is 
said to be a seedling from Mme. Marie Mass* 5 , and has 
the same habit of growth. Consequently.Jt is a very 
suitable variety for those who are desirous of em¬ 
ploying dawrf sorts or such as are of medium height 
only, for planting beds and borders with. The colour 
of the flowers is pure white, nnd they are freely pro¬ 
duced. It is at its best the second week in Septem¬ 
ber.— A. \V. 


LLIN( 


RBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


Dig 


December 14, 190? 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED\ 


551 



ROSES. 

CAROLINE TESTOUT AND SOME OF 
ITS DESCENDANTS. 

It is doubtful whether a more useful Rose 
was ever raised than Caroline Testout, for it 
has enabled us to embellish our gardens with 
a glorious variety of surpassing loveliness, 
and, what is equally valuable, of lusty vigour. 
It. was a happy idea of M. Pernet Dtirher to 


Verdiur and Devoniensis, and if this were 
established it would go far to explain the 
production of so many light-coloured Hybrid 
Teas which owe their origin on the one part 
or indirectly to Lady Mary Fitzwilliam. It 
is an interesting subject which, with our 
limited knowledge of Mendel’s theories, de¬ 
bars us from making any definite statement, 
but, even in the case of that peerless white, 
Frau Karl Druschki, Caroline Testout is re¬ 
putedly one of the parents. 


hybridise that old Rose Mme. de Tartas with 
Lady Mary Fitzwilliam, the former, no 
doubt, bequeathing to the seedling that mar¬ 
vellous vigour which has now become so well 
known. 1 have sometimes wondered whether 
the tendency of Caroline Testout to give 
light-colon red sports, and to produce white, 
or nearly white, seedlings, such as Irene, the 
subject of our illustration to-day, could be 
traced to the old and one-time popular 
Devoniensis. It is well known that Lady 
Alary Fitzwilliam was raised by the late Mr 
H. Bennett from a craS?** between _Vt‘tqr 

Digitized by y t QC M 


i a re air. 
*n Vidor 

•gfe 


Rose Irene. 


The subject of our illustration, Irene, is r 
splendid variety, large and showy. It is 
one of the best of the white sports or seed¬ 
lings from Caroline Testout, but it. has one 
great defect, and that is a weak flower-stalk. 
If it carried its flowers erect the same as 
Admiral Dewey, it would surpass that variety 
in beauty and size. But where this semi- 
drooping of the blossoms is not objected to. 
Irene will, undoubtedly, be found to be a good 
Rose. 

1 think the Caroline Testout group is 
pruned quit** hard enough, as a rule. It is 


better to prune moderately; at the same 
time, supplies of new wood should be en¬ 
couraged from the base by cutting right down 
each year one or more of the very oldest 
growths. Next to Irene and Admiral Dewey 
the best white seedling or sport of Caroline 
Testout is Margaret Guillot. In the early 
autumn this Rose is very fine, and much the 
purest white of the three, but it is not such 
a commanding flower as Irene. A very charm¬ 
ing soft pink seedling of Caroline Testout is 
Lucien de Lcmos. This, 
I believe, will prove a 
very useful Rose. It 
was raised from Prin- 
cesse A. de Monaco, 
crossed with Caroline 
Testout. M illy Crean 
is another lovely Peach- 
blossom pink variety of 
the old favourite. Its 
blossoms are very large 
and distinct. Some 
mild sensation was 
caused in the autumn 
by the exhibition of a 
number of striped and 
flaked flowers of Caro¬ 
line Testout, the sport 
being named Mrs. 
Longworth, after Presi¬ 
dent Roosevelt’s daugh¬ 
ter. If the parti colour 
is maintained, it will be 
an interesting addition. 
A delightful Rose, and 
one that should be in 
every garden, is Mme. 
Leon Pain. I do not 
know whether the lovely 
flowers of pink, with 
orange base, or the 
beautiful ruby-red foli¬ 
age please me most, 
but this latter certainly 
lends a distinctness to 
the variety not to be 
lost sight of. It, w ithout 
a doubt, inherits this 
deep-coloured foliage 
from its pollen parent. 
Souvenir de Catherine 
Guillot. Konigin Carola 
was recently illustrated 
in these columns, and 
there can be no doubt 
it will rank high as a 
garden Rose. Recently 
its bold, massive 
flowers presented a 
lovely appearance, al¬ 
though growth is 
scarcely vigorous 
enough. A few other 
really first-rate descen¬ 
dants of Caroline Tes- 
tout are Marie Croi- 
bier, very rich in colour¬ 
ing ; Frau Ernest Bor- 
eig, a novelty with a 
lovely white edging to 
its petals ; George La mg 
Paul, one of the best of 
our coloured Hybrid 
Tens; Aimee Cochet, 
and Frau Lilia Rauten- 
straueh. 

I should say that to 
this old Rose we are in¬ 
debted for such varie¬ 
ties as Lohengrin, Wm. 
Shean, Lady Ash town, 
and, possibly, the new 
Mme. ftegond Weber. Rosa. 


Roses on house (A. W.J.—We do rot 
think you can do better than plant such 
Roses as Lamarque, L’ldeal (on its own roots), 
Gloire de Dijon, and Reve d’Or. See that the 
wire to which you intend to fasten the Roses 
receives two coats of the best white paint, so 
as to prevent the acid injuring the shoots. 
On the wall facing north you may plant a 
Clematis or a C'ydonia japonicn, the only 
difference being that in '«mch a position the 

flowe lifNfVfck5fffY OF ILLINOIS AT 


URBAf 


CAMPAIGN 











552 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


December 14, 1907 


FERNS* 

FERNS FOR THE WINTER MONTHS. 
A good stock of small Ferns during the next 
four months will prove of inestimable value 
where there is any great demand for decora 
tive arrangements in the house. It is easier 
to raise these and to work up a stock in a 
short time than it is to bring on a similar 
stock of small Palms. The Ferns may not 
possibly be quite so enduring, but as regards 
this there is not much to choose when under 
good management. The stock of plants that 
is intended for this particular purpose should 
not in any way be encouraged to make a 
young growth thus late in the season, nor 
should they be grown in a too humid atmo¬ 
sphere. The better plan will be to keep them 
as cool as will be consistent with safety, 
whilst the atmospheric conditions can he 
largely regulated by ventilation. It does not 
do to infer that because we are now entering i 
upon the most cheerless portion of the year, 
no particular importance need he attached to 
tin* ventilation. Far less water at the roots 
will now be required; this also will act 
favourably. Plants for use in the imme¬ 
diate future should be what one might term 
‘‘hard-grown." To obtain this result but 
little shading should be given at any time, 
whilst, since the advent of September none 
at all should have been used, nor ought any¬ 
thing—larger plants or climbers—be allowed 
In overshadow such as those. It would be 
found a good plan to grow this class of Fern 
in cold pits during the summer or in low- 
pit-like houses, where in either case the 
plants could be kept near the glass. In pro 
portion to the size of the plants, the pots 
should be relatively smaller, in order that 

♦ be plants may be well rooted. It is only 
such that can be relied upon with any degree 
of certainty for use in unfavourable positions 
where, either from want of light or through 
cold currents of air. the vitality of the 
plants is sorely tried. Avoid also any plants 
that are of extremely dense grow th. Those, 
too. that are of a soft character will not be 
found so durable. Look keenly after insects, 
for these thrive under conditions that would 
Ik* prejudicial to the vitality of the Ferns 
themselves. Where the plants stand near to 

♦ lie windows, take every precaution to avoid 
exposure to either keen winds or a frosty 
air. It- does not often occur to one to re¬ 
move such plants when closing the room for 
the night, so that they do not run any risl 
from this source when the bottom sash of 
some or the vertical sash of others is opened 
early in the morning. At such times the 
Ferns should be out of harm’s way, standing 
them upon the floor below’ the window not 
being at all a bad method. For forming an 
undergrowth to taller plants, as Palms and 
such other plants as have stems, a few small 
Ferns in 2.J-inch and 3 inch pots can always 
1>c turned to good account. It is surprising 
how long these small Ferns may be made to 
do duty ; this arises from the simple fact of 
being so closely confined at the roots, thus 
causing a wirv growth. Close attention will 
have to be given to the watering, but this 
Is a matter of detail that can be easily over¬ 
come; if it so happen that the plants are not 
level, they must be dipped in water to satu¬ 
rate the balls. 

Another capital use for small Ferns during 
the next few months is in conjunction with 
Homan Hyacinths or early Due Van Thol or 
other Tulips in pots. A small seedling Fern 
or two worked carefully into the soil amongst 
the bulbs of either would greatly add to the 
appearance, the outer edge being surfaced 
with green Moss. It is easy to do this with 
such bulbs, most of which arc inserted in 
small pots in triangular fashion at the start. 
To such the Ferns can be added in the 
centre. 

Of Ferns for use in small pots, T have a 
particular liking for the golden and silvery 
Oyinnogrammas. They may not be, on the 
whole, quite so hardy, but this is, I think, 
compensated for by their pleasing appear¬ 
ance. In many kinds of pottery or vases, 
where the same colours predominate, nothing 
could be more appropriate. It is not well to 
select those for snob purposes which have the 
greatest amount of farinose powder upon 
tie* fronds, for, takerrson the whola the more 

Digitized by £jO gfe 


there is of this powder on them, the tenderer 
w ill be that particular variety. On the other 
hand, if extremely hardy kinds be most essen¬ 
tial, it will be found difficult to select any¬ 
thing better than the following: Pteris tre- 
mula, a beautiful Fern, looking prettier, I 
always think, when starved at the roots, so 
as to cause the fronds to assume a yellowish 
shade of green; when in vigorous health the 
colour is a deep green. 1*. cretica nobilis, 
as a plant of compact growth, with crested 
fronds, is one of the best kinds to grow; it 
will bust a long time in a fresh condition in 
a room. Cyrtomium falcatum is another in¬ 
stance of a most enduring Fern; scarcely a 
better one could be chosen for unfavourable 
positions. Asplenium bulbiferum is a 
thoroughly reliable plant, putting up with a 
lot of rough treatment. No Ferns will en¬ 
dure being dry at the roots, so as to cause a 
complete drooping of the fronds, better than 
this, soon reviving again when watered. 
Davallia canariensis is the hardiest of its 
race, being one of the best for a dry position, 
doing well with less water than many. 

No opportunity should be lost, to secure a 
good stock of seedlings, many of which will 
spring up in other pots and out-of-the-way 
places. These, if carefully nursed in small 
pots through the winter, will make good 
plants by the spring for growing on. 

FERNI.OYER. 

INDOOR PLANTS. 

\V INTKR B LOOM ING PL A NTS. 
Libonia floribunda.- Well-grown bushes of 
this old inhabitant of our greenhouses are 
very useful. This Libonia is of free growth, 
and is very easily grown during the summer, 
but it has a tendency to cast its lower leaves 
during the early winter months, so that just 
when the foliage is needed to show off the 
blooms the plant consists mainly of bare 
stems and flowers. This tendency to the fall¬ 
ing-off of the leaves causes many to abandon 
this plant for others that ran be relied on to 
remain in good condition during the flowering 
time. This partial defoliation is, in a great 
measure, caused by too much warmth and 
too close an atmosphere during the early 
stages of growth. The foliage may look green 
and healthy, lmt it has not acquired the sub¬ 
stance necessary to enable it to perform its 
functions when the invigorating influences of 
the growing season have passed away. Plants 
grown along rapidly from cuttings struck in 
early spring arc much more likely to suffer in 
this way than those that have never been 
brought within the influence of artificial 
warmth. The best way I have found is to 
strike the cuttings later in spring, and, when 
potted off, get them into the open air ns early 
in the season as it is safe to do so. If propa¬ 
gated in April or May, they will be estab¬ 
lished in small pots by the autumn. Wintered 
in a cool house, they will be ready for re¬ 
potting in June, and w ill then make all their 
growth in the open air. Another cause for 
leaf dropping is semi-starvation. Plants that 
were potted early in the summer, and that 
are in good condition, will fill the pots with 
roots bv early autumn, and should then be 
watered occasionally with liquid-manure. 

Cyclamens.- I remember the time when 
the Cyclamen was simply a spring-blooming 
plant. That was before the discovery was 
made that good flowering plants could lie bad 
within twelve months of sowing the seed. 
Bulbs two or three years old were used for 
market, and it was considered very good work 
to get them into bloom early in April. Now 
the first blooms are expanding in October, 
and one may obtain a nice display all through 
the winter months, although 1 think one docs 
not see the Cyclamen in full beauty until the 
influence of the early spring sunshine is felt. 
Experts will get good specimens for winter 
flowering w ithin ten months of sowing, hut I 
have never seen the advantage of this express 
system. If the seed is sown in July or early 
in August, and the young plants wintered in 
a cool-house, they will have three or four 
leaves and corms the size of Marrowfat Peas 
by March, and will have an abundance of 
good roots. Put into warmth early in March, 
they quickly start away into growth, and are 
ready for llicir blooming pots early in July. 


Chinese Primulas.— These are usually re* 
g&rded as spring blooming plants, and by the 
ordinary method of culture they cannot be 
had in really good condition during the early 
winter months. There is a way, however, by 
which finely-flowered specimens may be had 
from the early part of November onwards. 
This consists in sowing during the summer, 
so that the young plants get established in 
thumb-pots by autumn. If these arc repotted 
in spring, and again later on, they will make 
good specimens a foot across by the end of 
the growing time, and will be found very 
serviceable for room decoration or for any 
purpose where dwarf habited flowering plants 
are needed. 

Leschenaultia FORMOSA.— This is a de¬ 
lightful little plant, and one that stood high 
in the estimation of plant-grower® some forty 
years ago. It is of dwarf, compact habit, 
with neat Heath-like foliage, which shows 
up the bright orange-red flowers to much ad¬ 
vantage. Like other tilings of a similar 
nature which at one time were considered in¬ 
dispensable in well ordered gardens, the Les- 
ehenaultzia is easily enough grown when one 
or two cultural details are observed. In the 
first place, the best peat, with one sixth of 
silver sand, is absolutely necessary, and, ox 
eept for propagating, it must never be sub¬ 
jected to artificial warmth. Draught must be 
avoided, and watering must Ik* very carefully 
done, especially during the dull winter days. 
I think it a great pity that this kind of plant 
is so much neglected nowadays. This species 
and Baxteri, which resembles it closely, are 
quite distinct from the ordinary run of win¬ 
ter flowering plants, and worthy of the 
amount of skill and care that their culture 
entails. 

Chorozema HrnDERSONI is another win¬ 
ter-flowering plant that has, in a great 
measure, dropped out of cultivation. It is of 
very free growth, and may be quickly grown 
on into specimens 3 feet high and 2 feet, 
through It requires annual pruning, this 
consisting in shortening the shoots of the 
preceding season’s grow th to a couple of eyes. 
When the young growths are about an inch 
long, the plant should be repotted, using a 
mixture of peat, loam, and leaf-soil. Water 
carefully during the earlier stages of growth, 
and give them a turn in the open air from Julv 
to tlie beginning of September, which will 
harden the wood and promote flower produc¬ 
tion. J. CORNHII-I.. 


PRIMULAS. 

Without some of the species our green¬ 
houses during early winter and well into 
late spring would be less interesting than 
they are. Where but a few Primulas are 
grown, their brilliant colours, handsome 
foliage, and wealth of blossom, when well 
cultivated, make them general favourites. 
We may be able to grow good plant® while in 
pits and frames, but it is when they have to 
be housed in autumn among so many other 
plants that their requirement® arc sometimes 
overlooked. Doubtless, low span - roofed 
houses are the Ivvst for these during the many 
dull weeks of winter, but these are not al¬ 
ways at command, so that some other provi¬ 
sion must, lie made for the plants to Ik? stood 
within 2 feet of the glass roof, if nicely 
flowered specimens are wanted. Hanging 
shelves from the roof of an ordinary green¬ 
house. where the night temperature does not 
fall much below 4"> degs., unless in very 
severe weather, will lie found an ideal place 
for them. Here they will push up sturdy 
spikes of flower, and when these are nicely 
open the plants could lie placed on the side 
stages or the front row of a centre bed, where 
thev will continue to bloom for some weeks. 
Wlien the plants begin to look dowdy, cut 
away the old flower trusses and replace the 
plants on the shelf, and in four or five weeks 
they will be a mass of bloom again. T adopt 
this plan and always have a good show of 
bloom, promptly removing any decaying 
flower or leaf, and examining the plants 
daily as to water, not overdoing this. Natur¬ 
ally, in this position thev dry faster than 
when stood on a stage. Weak manure-water 
may be applied twice a week, varying the 
di d, which is of importance to all pot plants. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


]>ECEMBEIi 14, 1&07 


G.,1 HI)KM'IMG ILL USfJtATKK. 


633 



Late vineries and Peach-houses are made use 
of in our case for auceessional batches; here i 
a little fire heat must be applied when frost 
threatens. 

Blcton, Devon. J. Mayne. 

NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Thripa on Azalea .-1 enclose a few leaves from 
an Azalea. Can you tell me what disease is respon¬ 
sible for the condition of these leaves? The plants in 
u fair-sized greenhouse (cool) are all affected in the 
same way, in some cases having turned quite brown. 
It appears to me to be a kind of scale. Would any 
solution of copper sulphate be of any use?—W. T. 
FOWLKR. 

[Your Azaleas have been badly attacked by \ 
tlirips and red-spider. Syringe nr spray them I 
with paraffin emulsion, 

Quassia extract, or To¬ 
bacco water. If you 
could move them into a 
small bouse and fumi¬ 
gate them well, this 
would clear off the 
pests. A cheap insecti¬ 
cide for destroying this 
pest is as follows : 'l ie 
up a peek of soot in a 
canvas bag, and place it 
in a hogshead of soft 
water. Stir the bag of 
soot, about, daily for a 
week, and then add 
about 3 lb. of fresh, 
unslaked lime. When 
the lime lias clarified 
the mixture, it may be 
used for syringing the 
plants, diluting if need 
l>e. Try it on one or 
two plants first. This 
is an excellent syringing 
mixture, not only free¬ 
ing the plants from in¬ 
sects, but giving health 
and vigour to them.] 

Carnation Duchess 
of Westminster.— No 
variety of the Malmai- 
nou Carnation, perhaps, 
has greater claims to 
universal popularity 
than the above, which 
originated. I believe, 
as a seedling at Eaton 
Hall, near Chester, the 
seat of the Duke of 
Westminster. It is. 
without doubt, the best 
of its class for early 
work, and much more 
amenable to forcing— 
so far as this is a per¬ 
missible term to use to 
this type of Carnation 
than any other. Its 
value for early work 
lies in the fact that the 
variety is naturally an 
early one to bloom, 
coming several weeks in 
advance of others when 
given the same treat¬ 
ment. It is deeper in 
colour than other pink- 
flowered sorts, and in 
this respect one of thy 
most attractive. This 
handsome variety is 
also sweetly scented. 

In this respect, we 
know of no Carna¬ 
tion to approach 


during the winter months. The individual 
flowers have a tube about an inch long, with 
a spreading mouth, divided into five segments. 
The colour is a rich violet-blue, with a white 
throat—that is, when first expanded; for they 
pale somewhat afterwards, and also, strange 
to say, increase a little in size. The cultural 
requirements are not at all exacting, for it 
can he readily, increased either by seeds or 
cuttings. Those last, if formed of the young, 
growing shoots in the spring, will strike in 
about ten days in a gentle heat, and the 
young plants may then be grown on, and 
given much the same treatment as that re¬ 
quired by a Fuchsia. A mixture of loam, 
leaf-inould, well-decayed manure, and sand 


Lilia n idganteuin in Mr. Chambers’ garden at llaslemere, Surrey. 


for this 

alone it deserves extended cultivation. 
Those who desire to grow two of the best 
pink-flowered varieties of these Malmaison 
Carnations cannot do better than secure the 
above-named, with the better-known Princess 
of Wales as a companion. -E. J. 

Browallia speciosa major. This, a much 
superior plant to the older Browallia data, is 
a native of Colombia, differing from it also 
in being of a more-shrubby character—indeed, 
B. Bpeciosa major may be regarded as a sub¬ 
shrub. It forms a freely-branched bushy , 
plant if stopped during its earlier stages, and i 

H-Unt _: ii a...., .. :i» .. , 


what is more, it 
quite, throughout 
period are tin 

Dig 


ill flower nearly, if not 
the vear, though at no 
than 


e hlo-/f»nTh more va 


forms a suitable compost, and when the pots 
are well filled with roots, a little liquid- 
manure occasionally will be beneficial. To be 
seen at its best in the winter, it needs the 
temperature of an intermediate house.— 
G. S. C. 

Keeping Fuchsias in winter. Fuchsias put 
away in \vint» r often suffer through over-dryness and 
too much heat, and, as a consequence, if they sur¬ 
vive until spring, arc often found to be in a debili¬ 
tated and weak condition. A warm temperature is 
not necessary for them during a period which ought 
to he one of comparative rest, and the practice of 
packing plants under a greenhouse stage at I lie back 
of heat-pipes, where they get over much moisture and 
excess of heat, is not to he commended. The best 
place for them is a cool house or pnttiiig-shed from 
which frost is excluded, and this is nil they actually 
want until February, when they may lie brought into 
heat, cut back, and growth encouraged.—T ownsman. 


OUTDOOR PLANT84 

LILIUM GIGANTEUM. 

This fine species from the Himalayas is 
worth the attention of all hardy plant lovers. 
When in flower no finer or more handsome a 
plant could be found in any garden. The 
weak point of the plant—ami it. must be ad¬ 
mitted as a weakness, or, at least, a dis¬ 
appointing fact—is that one can never say 
when a good flowering may occur. To this 
uncertainty has to be added the fact that the 
plant flowers but once and perishes, and 
while as a6ort of compensation producing off¬ 
sets to propagate its kind, these latter must 
be grown for three or more years before 
they reach a size at which they may be ex¬ 
pected to flower. This, then, is the seamy 
side of this noble species ; but as a set off 
against all this there is that unique beauty 
in the plant when in flower which commands 
the attention of all, ami which renders il so 
conspicuous an object in the garden. 

The group in the* accompanying illustra¬ 
tion affords an excellent idea of the plant 
when in flower. The great length of the in¬ 
dividual blossoms and the internal coloura¬ 
tion of certain of the flowers are seen to ad¬ 
vantage. A good object-lesson is also afforded 
by the illustration, the group appearing from 
a plantation of Rhododendrons, in which 
position the plant usually finds a congenial 
home. A good depth of soil, a cool rooting 
medium, and shelter from frosts for the huge 
heart-shaped leaves that appear in early 
spring are among the chief essentials to suc¬ 
cess. As a rule, the plant produces seeds 
quite freely, and these may take from seven 
to ten years to reach the flowering size. The 
offsets left by the flowering of a plant may, 
with good treatment, ariive at the flowering 
stage in three or four years. Much, however, 
depends upon individual size and progress. 
Those who do not mind waiting should raise 
seedlings and plant, them when three years 
old into their permanent positions, selecting 
a place among low shrubs, as Kalmias. 
Heaths. Andromcdas, etc. When planting, 
the bulbs should be inserted about G inches 
deep in the soil, which should be first, deeply 
trenched and heavily manured. The finest 
<levelopinent of the plant- is seen in the more 
sheltered and warm districts, hut it is not 
unusual for the plant to reach the same per¬ 
fection in localities quite the opposite. Where 
the more mature bulbs are iKing planted, 
those of three years or four years old are 
best, and such as these will take three years 
more before the flowering stage is readied. 
This lapse of time permits the bulbs to be¬ 
come fully established, and only when this is 
the case does the plant attain to its noblest 
proportions. When fully grown the strongest 
spikes will tower to a dozen feet in height, 
and in such instances the giant stature, 
usually accompanied by a flowering propor¬ 
tionately good, appeals to all. A more fre¬ 
quent height is 7 feet to 10 feet, and then a 
group or colony in the garden is a most im¬ 
posing sight. The plant itself is quite hardy 
—i.r., the root and bulb—but the fresh leaf 
growth which develops quite early in spring 
is apt to be cut by frost or by biting winds. 
In these circumstances, therefore, it is advis¬ 
able to plant where shelter to the leafage can 
l>e given, and a western exposure with banks 
of shrubs or evergreens sheltering from the 
north and east is the best position in which 
to £row the plants. This question of position 
is important, inasmuch as if the foliage bo 
much injured by frests, the plant will take 
longer before it flowers. 

E. H. Jets kins. 

Anemones. Possibly, the autumn-bloom¬ 
ing Anemones are more largely grown than 
those that are amongst the first of spring 
flowers to greet us. Happy is lie indeeol 
whose garden and pleasure grounds admit of 
the wood Anemones, under trees or growing 
in profusion by hedgerow or coppice, where 
the Squirrel-cups (Anemone Hepatica) “a 
graceful company hide in their bolls a soft 
aerial blue.” Then there are the Crown 
Anemones, with shpyvv blossoms that give 
colour to a garden in May. I think in 
regard to the last there are not a few 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 











5",4 


GARDENING It L V STR. 4 TED. 


DEemrosn 14, 1907 


disappointments experienced. In my county 
it is so, and I have known many instances 
where in the autumn the dense green of the 
beds, giving a promise of a spring display, 
was ruthlessly cut down by sharp frosts, 
from which some of them at least, did not re¬ 
cover. My experience of the Crown Anemones 
is that they need a little protection in the 
winter by strawy material being drawn over 
the bed. The best place for them is, un¬ 
doubtedly, a bonier having a south aspect, 
backed by a good wall or fence. Here 
escaping the rigours of winter, they contri¬ 
bute not a little to a spring display, if 
planted in light soil.— Derby. 


T1IE BIRD'S FOOT VIOLET 
(VIOLA PEDATA). 

This is, unhappily, difficult to grow’, and has 
remained uncommon irt spite of many impor¬ 
tations from North America. Among the 
thirty odd kinds found in that land of Violets, 
this is the most beautiful, with its leaves cut 
into narrow segments resembling the spread- 
claws of a bird, and its mauve or pale violet 
flowers, in shape between a Violet and a 
small Pansy. The plant is widely distri¬ 
buted, but is often local, covering, it may be. 
hundreds of acres'with a dense carpet of 
flowers, and then disappearing from a large 
tract of country. Its season of beauty is May 
and June, w’hile it often blooms again in early 
autumn, and flowers of the same patch may 
vary in size, shape, and colour. In some, 
the petals are broad and rounded, and in 
others reduced to a mere strip of colour, 
which may vary from a soft shade of French 
grey through tones of violet to purple and 
deep blue. Pure white flowers are scarce, 
hut forms in which a groundwork of bluish- 
white is suffused with pink are not uncom¬ 
mon. The flowers follow one another in rich 
profusion for several w r eeks, and last, for a 
considerable time, the upper petals tilted 
back in a peculiar manner, which has been 
happily expressed by one writer as that of a 
shy animal with its ears set back. Its 
capricious nature is seen in the fact that even 
within a short walk of its native haunts, and 
in spots to all appearance equally favourable, 
it is often found impossible to establish it 
with success, so that its failure in some of 
our gardens is not surprising. It grows best 
in light sandy or gritty soils and in dry 
places, is found more rarely upon limestone, 
and not in w r et and shady spots. Partial 
shade does not seem to hurt it, provided the 
soil be dry, as on roadside hanks and in the 
clearings of sunny woodlands, but it is quite 
as frequently round in the open upon sunny 
hillsides, and always thickly massed in such 
spots. 

Even where fairly established in a garden, 
it needs care in winter, and disappears if 
left to itself. This comes from its dying 
away in winter to a short rootstock, from 
which the true roots, which are fine and 
thread-like, proceed. This root stock varies 
little in length from year to year, for what 
it gains at one end it loses at the other, with 
a tendency to lift itself out of the ground 
which is mostly seen in marsh and woodland 
plants—a provision of Nature to keep pace 
with deposits of falling leaves and washed- 
down soil, which are a part of such condi¬ 
tions. To maintain it in health an annual 
top-dressing of leaf-soil or sand is neces¬ 
sary, and iu this way new roots are coaxed 
from the upper part of the stem as those on 
the lower part perish. Heavy soils should be 
lightened by the addition of leaf mould and 
sand, and one of the best protections from 
the loosening power of frost is a surfacing of 
old Cocoa-nut-fibre. The plant often suc¬ 
ceeds better in pots than in the open air, not 
so much from any tenderness as from the 
greater care given to pot-plants in the way 
of soil and top-dressing. It is easy to raise 
seedlings, some of which may even flower in 
their first season, though more usually in the 
second and third years. Seed is not freely 
produced, however, many of the flowers being 
sterile. Cuttings of the side-shoots which 
sometimes break from the main stem will 
also root in sandy soil under glass. Coarse- 
growing. spurious forms of Viola pedata are 
often met with, and the weedy Viola piunata 
of Canadian woods also does duty for it 
upon occasion. _ _1 _ 

Digitized by (jOOglC 


Varieties. —The best of these is bicolor, 
rare in its wild state, and even more difficult 
to grow than the common form. It is found 
sparingly in the eastern States and more fre¬ 
quently further west, particularly in Colo¬ 
rado. It is somewhat tender with us, the 
damp of our winters being against it, so that 
even in the south it needs the shelter of a 
tilted pane of glass, and is best in a cool 
frame, flowering some weeks earlier than the 
type. The flowers, which are very beautiful, 
each measure an inch or more across, the 
two upper petals being a rich velvet-purple, 
and the lower parts a soft blue or mauve. 
The blending of these colours is exceedingly 
effective. There arc a scarce white variety, 
alba, and many unnamed shades of colour, 
as well as a pretty fragrant form of the com¬ 
mon kind which is not often seen in this 
country. 


IMPROVING A GLEN. 

I HAVE a romantic glen that I wish to im¬ 
prove by planting trees and shrubs in dif¬ 
ferent places, and would be glad to have the 
benefit of your advice. It is about a mile 
long, and from 15 yards to 100 yards wide 
at the bottom, through which runs a winding 
stream 0 feet to 10 feet broad. The first 
500 yards consist of a perpendicular rock, 
100 feet high, and on the edge is nn old 
castle. Under the old castle is a circular 
space of nearly two acres, surrounded by 
irregular rocks and precipitous banks. The 
north side—viz., the side facing the sun—at 
the foot of the rocks has, in places, a depth 
of 6 feet of soil, pockets and places in face 
of rocks with 1 foot or so of soil, at top (near 
the edge) 6 inches of soil, and hack further, 
the ground still rising, 2 feet; all the richest 
possible soil, in appearance like what is used 
for potting. 

The south side is a cold, yellowish clay soil, 
with dozens of young Ash and Sycamore-trees 
scattered through almost inaccessible places. 
The rocks on the north side arc fenced off in 
different places at the top, 10 feet to 15 feet 
wide, where the G inches of soil are, but 
could easily bo made a foot or more in places. 

About twenty years ago I planted an Abies 
Douglasi at the foot of one of these rocks. 
It, is now’ 4 feet in circumference at 2 feet 
from the ground, and about 50 feet high, 
hut the top 20 feet is very much “whipped” 
by the wind. I was advised to plant trees 
all along the foot of the rocks—to my mind, 
a piece of vandalism, hiding the rocks. I 
would like to plant near the top, so as to give 
the glen a deeper appearance. The middle 
of glen opens out more, and the banks run up 
steep as a stair for 100 yards or more. These 
slopes are studded over with huge Thorns, 
which could be used in places to protect the 
trees from cattle that roam all over the place. 
The lower 500 yards is a fox covert, and 
covered with Gor.se and Ash-trees. There is 
a great depth of rich sandy and gravelly 
earth all over the place, and in a few places 
water, and Rushes up the hanks. 

I am anxious to know’ vvliat sort of trees 
suit the different soils, etc., and then the 
colours suited to the different places. I do 
not know if Pines or Fir-trees would look 
well as single trees near the top ; and then 
they might )>e blown down. I like Scarlet 
Oak, Maple, Lime, Walnut, Cedars, Berlieris, 
Hollies, etc. N. M. 

[There are very few men so lucky in hav¬ 
ing a site where almost anything will grow 
and look well. The Pine family could In¬ 
grown if it suits the climate, and, if planted 
young- i.r., not more than two or three 
years —would thrive. Do not plant the trees 
singly, but rather mass them together as a 
little grove. 

Among the rocks and in other spots the 
best things to plant would, probably, be the 
finer Rhododendrons, Kalmius. and Azaleas. 
Being so near the sea, you should have no 
trouble even in growing a good many of the 
Indian Rhododendrons, which do so well in 
various parts of Ireland. 

You are quite right about not hiding your 
rocks with large trees ; but you will have to 
securely fence not onlv against, cattle, but 
also against, rabbits and hares, if you are to 
plant precious things with success. 


Do not trouble about colours, because all 
natural colours come right, but avoid varie¬ 
gations and disc-olourations of every kind (in¬ 
cluding the Copper Beech), which are usually 
not. Nature’s work, but man’s selection.— 
Ed.] __ 


GUNNERA. 

Of all plants grown in me open air in our 
varied climate these are among the most dis¬ 
tinct. There are about a dozen species, 
varying from gigantic herbs in which a horse 
and his rider might stand concealed, to tiny, 
creeping plants which, in moist places of the 
southern hemisphere, cover the ground with 
a dense carpet. While most abundant iu 
South America and New Zealand, they 
occur in regions as far apart as South Africa, 
Abyssinia, Java, Tasmania, and Hawai. 
Seven or eight species have been introduced, 
but of these some are dwarf kinds seldom 
seen, save in collections, G. chilensis and G. 
manicata being these which are found in our 
gardens. It is in the moist parte of Ireland, 
the south-west of England, and the Channel 
Islands, that these fine plants are seen at 
their best. They thrive in light rich soil, 
well manured and well drained, and attain 
their full size in places beside water where 
the ground is moist. They will also grow 
well in rich soil of a drier character, but. 
without their waterside luxuriance. There 
must ho shelter from rough winds, or the 
great leaves are spoiled before their time ; 
good drainage is also important, for where 
Gunneras fail it is mostly due to a cold sub¬ 
soil. "Several years elapse before the plants 
show their character, though when the ground 
is dug to a depth of several feet, and well 
manured, growth is rapid, particularly if the 
plant is well protected during winter by a 
layer of dry Beech leaves, with the cut leaves 
of the plants laid over all as a thatch. The 
covering may be removed at the end of 
March, but a light wrapping should still be 
kept at, hand to guard against late frosts, 
which cripple tlie plant at the outset. The 
first leaves are often the finest (especially if 
the plant is given a dressing of ammonia on 
starting), and their injury means a serious 
check to tie* plant. A dressing of cow- 
nmnure and frequent waterings with liquid- 
manure wonderfully increase the size of the 
leaves ; as much as three cart-loads of 
manure is sometimes given to a single plant 
at one dressing. The massive flower spikes 
are more curious than beautiful, and many 
gardeners remove them as fast as they ap- 
pear to save the crowns from exhaustion. 
Increase may 1** by division and by seeds, 
which ripen freely enough in this country, 
though the young plants grow slowly at. first. 
It is well to have a spare plant or two com¬ 
ing on. for in certain soils the Gunnera ex¬ 
hausts itself rapidly, and dies away soon after 
reaching maturity. This is beat provided for 
by planting groups of three in soils of this 
nature, the distant, effect being still that of 
a single crown. Seedlings of both these 
Gunneras vary somewhat in character, size, 
and shape of leaf, etc., and to this are due 
the two or three varieties of G. chilensis now 
found in gardens. If young plants of the 
two kinds were compared the choice would 
be for chilensis, which is at, first neater and 
more interesting‘than manicata, and thrives 
better in dry soils. But mature masses of 
G. manicata are far more imposing, and in a 
moist climate with a long season of growth, 
the ultimate comparison is all in its favour. 
It is also somewhat hardier, thriving as far 
north as Aberdeen with only slight, protec¬ 
tion. A long season is a great, gain to the 
plants, which need time to mature their 
crowns before the winter begins, and. as they 
grow best in low, damp spots, this is not easy 
in places exposed to early and late frosts. 

G. chilensis (syn. G. scabra).—A plant, 
spread over the whole of S. America, from 
Patagonia and Chili, where it grows in the 
warmer valleys and beside river estuaries to 
the seashore and throughout the Andes at, an 
increasing height until, in the Cordilleras of 
Columbia and Ecuador, it, is found at eleva¬ 
tions of 6.000 to 10,000 feet. Though of com¬ 
pact habit, the tufts spread upon nil sides 
from 6 ijtle shoots, and by self sojvn seedlings 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



December li, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


855 




in favourable spots. Full-sized leaves are 
upwards of 6 feet across, carried upon stout 
reddish stems of about the same length, 
which are very tough and full of acid juices. 
The tiny reddish flowers appear in it dense 
head or spike, divided into many spikelets, 
and followed by orange-red fruits set thickly 


Narcissus Eileen Mitchell. From a photograph in Messrs. 

nursery at Thames Ditton. 


together. These flower-spikes are sometimes 
3 feet to 4 feet long, and as much round, 
while heads weighing 30 lb., and 5 feet to 
6 feet round, have been recorded. The 
plant is hardy over the greater part of Britain, 
if planted in free soils with a covering in 
winter. It is tender at Paris, but grows 
luxuriantly on the coasts of Brittany and 
Finistere, and is becoming naturalised in 
sheltered places. In a hard season the 
crowns are sometimes injured, but the plant 
is seldom killed outright. Masses 15 feet 
or more in diameter, and containing scores 
of leaves, are now not uncommon. 

G. MANICATA. -The giant of tile- genus and 
one of the most stately of hardy plaints. 
Where it attains its finest development, as 
in Ireland and the south-west of England, 
masses of foliage 30 feet to 35 feet in dia¬ 
meter arc sometimes produced by one crown, 
the largest leaves being upwards of 9 feet 
across, and as many as seventy-eight have 
been counted upon a single plant. The effect 
of 6uch a mass, 12 feet high when in full 
luxuriance, is difficult to convey in words, 
and though G. manicata—a scarce plant 
tw'enty years ago—is now fairly common, it 
is under the best conditions that, it attains 
such a size. From G. chilensis it differs in 
many ways. The leaves are larger and 
broader at the base, of thinner texture and a 
richer green, more evenly rounded and flatly 
spreading ; the ribs and veins are light green 
or nearly white ; and the surface smooth in¬ 
stead pf roughly scabrous. They are not 
only more erect and last longer in the 
autumn, but the stalks, of 5 feet to 8 feet 
long ^according to the vigour cf the plant), 
are spiny throughout their length, and are 
sheathed at the base. The central bud, or 
crown, enveloped in a mass of downy pinkish 
scales, is often as large round as a mans 
body, and is far less apt to split into offsets 
than in chilensis. The flower-spikes are very 
stout 3 feet to 5 feet high, and much less 
dense, the tiny greenish flowers being set 
upon slender tapering spikelets, which give 
the inflorescence quite a different appear¬ 
ance. The seeds ripen in this country, but 
are slow to come up, germinating irregularly 
in the second year. The plant needs shelter, 
and grows best in light soil, well enriched. 
It comes from the eutcT>uid mistv ilountain 
regionf in ftihe sQuth^of-Jjr^U, >^ll| dis 


covered by Libon, presented a noble appear¬ 
ance, with leaves each 10 feet to 12 feet 
across. B. 

NARCISSUS EILEEN MITCHELL. 
There are both beauty and character in the 
above-named hybrid Narcissus, whose mixed 
parentage is calculated to 
provide yet further addi¬ 
tions to an already remark¬ 
able group of plants. The 
variety in question, and of 
which an illustration is 
given to-day, is among the 
most graceful of recent 
novelties. This dainty 
flower has for its parents 
the pure white N. pocticus 
and the very beautiful N. 
triandrus calathinus, the 
former the seed-parent. 
That this is so, and that its 
greater influence is thereby 
ensured, is to some extent 
apparent in the length of 
the tube from the ovary to 
the base of the perianth. 
There is also much of the 
poetieus in the large ex¬ 
panse of the perianth seg¬ 
ments, while in the exqui¬ 
sitely formed cup. and par¬ 
ticularly in its depth, we 
sue the direct influence of 
the pollen parent. The 
more decided droop of the 
flower, and the fact that as 
many as three blooms are 
produced in a scape, are all 
items due to the pollen 
Barr and Sons’ parent. The purity of tone, 
however, which pervades 
the flower throughout is un¬ 
mistakably that of N. poeti- 
cus, to which also may be ascribed the vigour 
of the plant as a whole. As at present known, 
the plant is rather more than a foot in height. 
It was raised at Ditton by the Messrs. Barr 
and Sons. E. J. 


until October, when the covering may be 
put on at night. I like keeping them in cold- 
frames all the winter, if possible, protecting 
when necessary. If very large quantities are 
required, it will be necessary to prick the 
seedlings off into boxes of light rich soil, and 
set them into very mild heat until they got 
rooted again, when they will be far better 
under quite cool treatment. Just keep them 
growing gently, so that they will be fit for 
dividing in February or March, when every 
piece that has got a root will, if dibbled into 
boxes, make a fine sturdy plant by bedding- 
out time. The principal item of culture is 
to keep the tips of the shoots clipped off 
pretty closely, so that, the plants do not de¬ 
velop any flowering shoots until they are 
finally planted out, when they will be full of 
little side growths that will spread out in all 
directions as soon as they are planted out. 
Anyone giving this system a trial will never 
resort to seedlings raised after the new year 
comes in, for no matter how well they may 
be managed, they do not get the strength 
and vigour of those that are kept cool from 
the first. 

Gosport. James Groom. 

Arabis alblda graudiflora superba Those 
who are content to grow the old white Arabia, are, 
doubtless, glad of its wealth of flowers in the spring: 
but the latest rival has much to commend it. One 
of its advantages over the well-known sort is that, 
besides lasting longer, owing to its double flowers, 
its flower stalks are longer and adapted for cutting. 
The plants may be bad in flower mueh in advance of 
those out-of-doors if introduced to the warmth of a 
greenhouse, a fact that many are not slow to recog¬ 
nise.— Leahurst. 

Mulching hardy flower borders in winter — 

Is it better to apply a mulch of manure to borders of 
hardy flowering plants in winter, or wait until spring? 
Putting this question to a gardener of long experi¬ 
ence, he gave his opinion that it depended to some 
extent on locality; but. in a general way, the work 
was best deferred until spring. In the meantime, 
the borders should be gone over, and any tender or 
newly-planted subjects should have the benefit of a 
covering of straw litter or leaves in severe weather. 
It is sometimes forgotten that in applying manure 
there is a possibility of excluding the air, a state of 
things which should he avoided.—T ownsman. 


BLUE LOBELIA. 

This is, probably, the most popular of all 
our dwarf summer edging plants, for its 
beautiful colour and continuous habit of 
blooming for months in succession render it 
indispensable. 1 find the following plan 
never fails to give me an unlimited supply. 


MOUSE-EAR CHICK-WEED 
(Cerastium tomentosum). 

This was once used in almost every garden 
for forming silvery edgings to flower-beds 
an 1 borders, its hardiness, power of bearing 
clipping, and facility of increase making li¬ 
very useful for such work. It is also useful 
as a border plant and for rough roek-work. 
When used for forming edgings, the best way 


Mouac-car C'hickweed (Ceraetium tornentotum). From a photograph by Mr. C. Jones. 

Sow the seed in shallow boxes of light sandy to treat it is to every second year out over 

’ ’ the plants in March and lift them, digging 
the ground over, and adding some leaf-mould 
to it. Then divide the plants into little 
rooted tufts, and put them in about 3 inches 
apart inihe line. They will soon form a nice 
edging. 

ORBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


soil in August, setting the boxes in a cold- 
frame that is shaded from tho mid-day sun. 
Keep the surface continually moist by light 
sprinklings until the seedlings are well ad¬ 
vanced, then draw the lights quite off, and 
leave the plants fully exposed to all weathers 




5 j6 


GAIW EM J\ V ILL U ST RATED. 


Djccsubbu 14, 1907 


GARDEN WORK. 


Conservatory. —Epiphyllums in baskets 
are bright now, and will last some time. 
They thrive in porous materials, and if the 
growth is ripened outside for a month or so 
in summer, they will be covered with blos¬ 
soms in November or later. Those who 
grow cool Orchids may make a very interest¬ 
ing group in a shady part of the eonserva- 
torv at this season arranged thinly amid 
Maidenhair or other Ferns. Asparagus pin 
mosus and A. Sprengeri are among the most 
useful things for forming a groundwork for 
such plants as Orchids, Cyclamens, and 
Roman Hyacinths. A group of impatienu 
Holstii is very pretty now on a groundwork 
of Ptcris serrulata major. Chrysanthemums 
will soon be reduced in numbers. There 
will, of course, be late flowers for cutting for 
a couple of months yet in a cool house, but 
other things will be thought about now. 
Good-sized groups of yellow Genistas and 
white Eupatorium odoratum will be nice 
now. Some ladies do not care for them, be¬ 
cause they are not sufficiently important and 
massive to fill large vases, but specimen 
plants, 4 feet or 5 feet through, covered with 
flowers, are very useful to the gardener in the 
conservatory. They are very easily grown, 
may be planted out in the summer, lifted 
again in September and placed in tubs or 
large pots. All that one lias to do is to prune 
into shape in spring. Plant out early in 
June and pot up again in September. To 
form backgrounds or singlo specimens in 
dark corners, Bamboos are very useful, and 
may be planted out in the border. They 
are not so good for ordinary decoration, ns, 
nftcr being exposed to gas fumes for a week 
or so, they lose colour; but as many houses 
arc now fitted with electric light, that ob¬ 
jection may disappear. Cinerarias are now 
coming into bloom where sown early. Very 
large plants may be grown in fl inch or 7-inch 
pots, and if vaporised before they arc taken 
to the conservatory, and properly supplied 
w ith water, there will be no trouble with in¬ 
sects. Pretty well the same treatment will 
suit the herbaceous Calceolaria, that will 
come later. 

Stove.— There is some pretty foliage 
among the Alocasias and Maruntus, but they 
must have warmth, not less than 65 degs. to 
70 degs. at night, and should be potted in 
porous materials, so that the water can pass 
freely away. If a plant gets into a water¬ 
logged condition, it- will soon be all up with 
it. The Autliuriums have become a nume¬ 
rous family since the hybridist took them in 
hand. They have noble foliage, and bright, 
peculiar flowers. They have strong, fleshy 
roots, requiring a good deal of moisture. 
Rough peat and Sphagnum, with crushed 
charcoal, form the best potting compost, and 
the drainage must be abundant and very free. 
They may be taken to the conservatory for a 
time when in flower. One of my neighbours 
often has a plant in his window of the com¬ 
mon variety, A. Scherzerianuni. These 
strong-rooting things may be helped with 
liquid manure when coming into flower. 

Value of a bed of leaves In forcing.- A 
low. span-roofed house, which contains pits 
which can be filled with leaves, is very use¬ 
ful for many things in early forcing. Vines 
and Figs in pots make healthy, vigorous 
grow th when plunged in a bed of mildly fer 
meriting leaves. No fire-heat, wilj be re¬ 
quired at first till the buds are bursting, 
as the warmth from the bod will keep up a 
night temperature oF 50 degs. to 55 degs, ai d 
tins w ill be enough to commence, with. Roses 
in pots will start vigorously under such con¬ 
ditions, and these may have rather free ven¬ 
tilation till some progress has been made. 
Both flowers and foliage feel the benefit of 
the genial root-warmth. Strawberries in pots 
half-plunged in a bed of leaves start strongly, 
the flower Bpikes and foliage coming away to¬ 
gether if the ventilation is free. Orange- 
trees, or any other plant which has lost tone 
through over watering or exposure, will re¬ 
cover vigour if plunged in a leaf-bed. Nar¬ 
cissi or other bulbs which it may be neces¬ 
sary to hasten will feel the impetus of the 
leaf-hed. 

Renovating old IVInMrVTh^ If? times 




when, from the force of circumstances, one 
has to get off the beaten track. Some years 
ago I had to deal with a house of Black Ham¬ 
burgh Vines that were in a bad way from 
over-cropping. They were grow ing in an in¬ 
ferior, soil, and good loam could not then be 
thought of, or, if thought of, could not be 
obtained. And yet something had to be 
done. There was abundance of Oak and Elm 
leaves, which were easily obtained. Early in 
December a trench fl feet wide was dug down 
to the bottom of the border along the front, 
and the exhausted soil was wheeled about the 
garden. A few of the best roots were saved, 
shortened, and afterwards laid up and 
covered with mats. The trench was filled 
with leaves, and trod in. The roots that 
were saved were laid by the leaf-bed. The 
part of the old border that was left was top- 
dressed with the best stuff wo could obtain, 
and also covered with leaves deep enough to 
set up a gentle fermentation. The Vines 
were allowed to break naturally, which, as 
they had been previously forced, was not 
much behind the usual time. Disbudding 
was seen to ill good time, and the crop was 
superior to anything the old Vines had had 
in the past. The next season the old leaf- 
bed was taken out, saving some of the roots, 
and new leaves placed in the trench again. 
The crop was again in every way superior. 
This respite gave us time to get up young 
Vines in other houses. It is a serious matter 
when, on (Mitering a situation, a mail finds 
the early Vines hopelessly bad. and no pro¬ 
vision made, or can be promptly made, for 
their improvement. Since then I have often 
found the value of the leaf-bed. 

In the Mushroom-house.— A good deal 
may be done now besides grow Mushrooms if 
the house is as roomy as it ought to be. Rhu¬ 
barb, Seakale, ami Chicory or Dandelion- 
roots may be brought on in the dark in a 
temperature of 55 degs. to AO dogs., and if the 
house is large and the bed-spaces filled, the 
warmth generated in the house will maintain 
the requisite temperature unless we have 
severe frost. If there is a scarcity of well- 
blanched Endive, the plants can be lifted and 
placed in the Mushroom-house to hasten the 
blanching. Lily of the Valley may be started 
and Lilacs will break into growth sooner in 
the dark, genial warmth of the Mushroom- 
house than elsewhere. 

Flowers for the house, 
is nothing to take the place of the Chrysan 
theinums for tall glasses or largo vases. For 
smaller glasses there are many things, such 
as Cyclamens, double Primulas, Violets, 
Roman Hyacinths, scarlet and other Zonal 
Pelargoniums, and Carnations. These can 
generally be obtained with long stems by dis¬ 
budding'freely. The most useful foliage now 
is sprays of Asparagus. 

Outdoor garden. —There is always some¬ 
thing to do at this season among trees and 
shrubs, even when no additions are being 
made. When Laurels arc used ns under¬ 
growth among large trees, they should be 
kept low . so that the trunks of the trees may- 
show above. In this way, Hie large boles of 
the trees show well above the green ground¬ 
work. 1 think very few plant the common 
Laurel now, as rotundifolia is so much 
hardier and neater ill growth. When shrubs 
are in low masses there is no digging re¬ 
quired, as the leaves fall, decay, and nourish 
the roots of both shrubs and trees. But, 
there are thickets in some shrubberies which 
ought to be thinned and improved. Some of 
the old things may be grubbed up to create 
open places for better tilings to be planted. 

1 have seen these tangled thickets opened up 
and the place much improved by planting a 
few good conifers. Hollies, Maples, and other 
good things, which in a few years will com 
pletelv alter the character of the place. This 
is work which may lie done now. In grub 
bing up an old shrub or tree, break up the 
soil deeply and pick out all the old roots. As 
soon as the bulbs are all planted, place a 
mulch -of manure over the surface. Moss- 
litter-manure does very well for this purpose. 

Fruit garden.— Misleading statements are 
often made by writers, who, perhaps, have 
had very little experience of the work, and 
have been led astray by others, who had 
spoken at random. I have no doubt every 


fruit-grower would like to make £80 per 
acre by his fruit crop, but I have never yet 
met with a person who could satisfy an ac¬ 
countant that he had accomplished it. Some 
years ago I knew a man who had a large old 
Lammas Pear-tree in his garden, and one 
year he had a splendid crop, which he sold 
on the tree for £5, and he mado a calcula¬ 
tion that an acre of land would easily hold 
twenty of these trees, and the crop was mag¬ 
nified'till il assumed very large proportions. 

I am afraid this is a common way of averag¬ 
ing things when calculating the weight and 
value of crops. There is no doubt, of course, 
that on a suitable site, heavy and profitable 
crops of Apples may be grown by planting 
trees on the Paradise stock, say, 10 feet apart, 
with a row of Gooseberry-hushes between 
each two rows of trees. If profit is the ob¬ 
ject, not many kinds should be planted, and 
unless there is room for storage in winter, 
onlv kinds which can I * sold from the trees 
should be grown. Half-a-dozen good kinds 
should include Manks’ Codlin, Stirling 
Castle, Lord Grosvenor, Worcester Pear- 
main, Peasgood’s Nonsuch, and Warner’s 
King. If there is storage room, then I would 
add another half-dozen, as follows: Bis¬ 
marck. Brantley's Seedling, Wellington, New¬ 
ton Wonder, Lane’s Prince Albert, Tower of 
Glamis, and Annie Elizabeth. Blenheim 
Orange and Cox’s Orange Pippin are spleid 
did Apples when the land suits them, but l 
have not had Cox’s Orange Pippin do well 
on the Paradise stock, and to suit it the land 
must be deep and warm. 

Vegetable garden.— In the event of frost 
coining. Globe Artichokes will require to be 
protected with half-decayed litter; but be ; 
fore this is done it will be as well to pot up 
a few strong roots to keep under glass during 
winter, and plant, out again in April to get 
a few early dishes. All root, crops likely to 


be injured by frost should be lifted and stored 
now. If late-sown Early Horn Carrots are 


left in the ground, they must be pro¬ 
tected in some way. A few’ dry leaves be¬ 
tween the rows, with a covering of rough hay 
or Bracken will keep them fresh and sweet, 
or, if taken up, the roots should be packed m 
sand in a cool place. A good stock of Sea- 
kale crowns should be lifted and laid in 
near the forcing-house. A stock of Horse¬ 
radish should also be lifted and laid in on 
. . the north side of a wall, to bo easily acces- 

At present there | siblp wl|en Wttll ted. All early seed Potatoes 
should now be placed ill shallow trays or 
boxes, crown upwards, in a light, frost-proof 
building, to develop the crown eves ready 
for planting. Dry Bracken or litter should 
be in readiness for covering anything re¬ 
quiring protection. Let. the ground be 
slightIv frozen before using it. 

E. Hobday. 


THE COMING WEEK’S WORK. 

Extracts from a Garden Diary. 

December ltith _Shrub-thinning and prun¬ 

ing are now receiving attention, and some re¬ 
movals are being made. Where large 
branches have to be cut from Rhododendrons 
or other evergreens, the work will be done in 
spring. Pruned climbers on buildings, and 
tied or nailed in loose branches. Lime- 
water has been applied to a lawn that was 
infested with worms. The lime will do good 
otherwise. 

December nth .—The vaporiser is used in 
plant-house as soon as green-fly is seen. 
Tlirips and mites which attack Ferns may bo 
cleared out by vaporising, and it is cheaper 
to prevent than cure. Pricked off young 
Ferns from the seed or spore boxes into other 
boxes 12 inches or so apart. Shifted on a lot 
of rooted cuttings of Carnations, chiefly se¬ 
lected seedlings, which we thought worth 
saving. . . 

December fStfi.— Every fine day is devoted 
to pruning fruit trees, and as soon as the 
pruning is finished spraying will begin. In 
some cases lime will be used to lime washi the 
stems and to scatter over the branches. I his 
is done when the branches arc damp by a 
man standing on the windward side and using 
a shovel. This not only cleanses the bark, 
but works down to the roots. 

JhV ’ttJk 1 '- II newly-planted Roses 

bavo been mulched with Moss-litter manure, 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



December H, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


557 


aud there is a heap of dry soil lying ready 
for earthing up dwarf Teas when frost comes. 
Standard Teas will be protected by Bracken 
thrust through the head and secured. This 
breaks the cold, biting winds. Made up hot¬ 
bed for Asparagus and Potatoes. As the 
Asparagus is cleared out, the frames will be 
filled with Potatoes, Lettuces, etc. 

December 30th .—Dry leaves are used for 
sheltering the roots of any plant which may 
require it. A shovel full of ashes or dry 
earth over the leaves will hold them together, 
and no frost will penetrate. Newly-planted 
things, we find, are more likely to suffer 
than those which are well established. The 
smouldering fire is going now in the rubbish- 
yard, converting all waste matters into valu¬ 
able compost. 

December 31st .—A constant stream of 
plants is now passing through the forcing- 
houses. This includes nearly everything 
likely to be useful to produce flowers or mate¬ 
rials for the kitchen, including Green Mint, 
Tarragon, etc. The buds are now swelling in 
the early Peach-house, and as soon as the 
flowers begin to expand, night temperatures 
will work up to 50 dogs, to 55 degs. The 
eamel’s-hair brush will be used as soon us the 
flowers expand. 

BOOK8. 


“MY ROCK GARDEN.”* 

Judging by the books written on the sub¬ 
ject, the love of alpine and rock plants is in¬ 
creasing, aud it is a good sign, as many 
beautiful plants of the northern and moun¬ 
tain world cannot be grown or shown in any 
other way so well. Even when badly made, 
the ruck garden offers a place for many 
plants which no border or bed can rival. 
When simply and well made it is the only 
garden for placing many things to have them 
thrive and look to the best advantage. This 
is a spirited book on the plants, clearly by 
one who knows his theme, and loves it, and 
who has seen the plants in their native 
countries. It is in great part an elaborate 
and critical list of the good things to grow, 
with little surprises of language here and 
there. 

That, part of “My Rock Garden” for 
which the camera is responsible is entirely 
successful. There are excellent photographs 
of rock plants which tell their storv clearly 
enough. The advice, too, as to what to avoid 
in making rock gardens is sound, and al¬ 
though it has been said before, it cannot be 
repeated too often, for there is no form of 
gardening which lends itself to such forms of 
crude ugliness as rock gardens. 

” Don't ever try to make your rock-gardens among 
trees in hollows of the wood. Don't let nurserymen 
pile you a drunkard's dream of noxious ceincnt 
blocks, all volutes and exaggerated cavities. Don't 
build up a sham grotto of clinker bricks on the lawn, 
and rig up Nasturtiums over it to hide the places 
where alpine# have unanimously died. See that your 
site is at least clear, and clean, and open." 

This is excellent advice. Perhaps better 
advice for the average gardener is to leave 
rock gardening alone. It is a pursuit for the 
leisured and wealthy, and the gardener of 
small means and modest plot will do better 
to turn his attention to the Rose garden and 
the grouping of a few hardy English plants. 
For the cultivator of rock plants such a book 
as this must have much interest. The author 
has an intimate knowledge of a large number 
of species, has collected them in their native 
homes, and watched with loving care their 
growth in his own rock garden. 

From our point of view, the ’book gains 
nothing from the chatty faeetiousness of its 
style, nor the exaggerated language in which 
much of it is written. This is how the author 
elects to impress his readers with the right 
way of cultivating Daphne Blagayana: — 

" Daphne Blagayonu has been quite good with me 
ever since 1 realised all the plant really wants is to 
be perpetually stoned with atones like the tomb of 
Absalom. Plant this lovely trailing Tyrolese Daphne 
in rough peat, and then every time you pass, hurl a 
mighty rock on top of it, and pin down all its 
branches under boulders." 

I he pursuit and capture of Eritrichium 
uanum on the summit of the Merdon Pass are 


* *' My Rock Garden,” by Rirituld Farrer. ifcdward 
Arnold, London. 1907. P j \ IT> 


an exhilarating experience told with such evi- 
! dent enthusiasm and verve as to capture the 
interest of the reader at once, and to compel 
him to participate in the hopes and fears of 
the climber, and, finally, to rejoice in his 
well-merited success. 

It is assumed that the author of “My Rock 
Garden ” had some notion of calling attention 
to the value of Mr. Robinson’s work when he 
wrote the following paragraph, which follows 
a dissertation on the deplorable effects of the 
“carpet bedding and the formality without 
beauty” practised during the Victorian 
era : — 

“ His sutrejwors aud disciples liave been driven 
to the foolish extreme of denying all value to form, 
of insisting on anarchy in the garden, of declaring 
that every restraint is hateful. Now we have nothing 
but weak lines in our gardens, vague wibhle-wobble 
curves that have no meaning or explanation. Our 
borders meander up and down, and here and there, 
like sheep that have no shepherd. Our silly lawns 
erupt into silly little beds like pimples. All is un¬ 
certainty, formlessness—a vain, impotent striving 
after the so-called natural." 

If the successors and disciples are 
actively busy in planning gardens with 
nothing but weak lines and vague wibbly- 
wobbly curves that have no meaning, and 
silly lawns with eruptions of silly little beds 
like pimples, they must belong to that 
afflicted portion of humanity which is, 
through some unfortunate mental deficiency, 
rightly confined to the grounds of some of our 
lunatic asylums. The wibble-wobble curves 
and pimply beds have been so effectively held 
up to ridicule by the author of “The English 
Flower Garden,” that if there is any disciple 
of his still practising these futilities outside 
an asylum, he should receive the immediate 
attention of his friends. 

But the truth, as regards the ugly things 
the author speaks of. is that, they were long 
known before our day or generation, as may 
be seen by a reference to I lie old books—even 
the best, books, such as Loudon —in which 
the most comical attempts at rock gardening 
and other kinds of picturesque gardening are 
depicted. S. S. 


LAW AND CUSTOM^ 


Head gardener and his employer (C. C.J. 
—(1) It is purely a matter of custom, if 
there is no agreement either written or verbal 
—and L believe the prevailing custom is for 
one month’s notice to be given. As far as 
the cottage is concerned, no notice whatever 
is required in respect of that, tho rule being 
that a bailiff or other employee residing in a 
cottage- rent free is a tenant-atwill of his 
muster, and must quit at any moment if re¬ 
quired (subject, of course, to a proportionate 
adjustment of salary or wages). (2) No; 1 
can see no ground of action. What the mas¬ 
ter said was not slanderous. It was merely 
an expression of his opinion as to the state 
of his garden, and it was privileged, being 
spoken to you, not published to other persons. 
The position is naturally an unfortunate one 
for you, and one in which 1 can quite sym¬ 
pathise with you; but, of course, here I am 
merely dealing with the legal aspect of the 
question. —Barrister. 

Neighbour destroying cats (J. 11 .).—'The 

neighbour is, in my opinion, liable to a 
double penalty. There is little doubt that he 
could be convicted under the Cruelty to 
Animals Acts, as the method he has em¬ 
ployed is, undoubtedly, cruel and unjustifi¬ 
able ; it would Ixi different if the slaughter 
were effected by shooting or some other ex¬ 
peditious process of extinction. But, apart, 
from the criminal aspect of the matter, it 
s^enis to me that your neighbour is liable to 
a civil action for damages at tin* suit of your- 
seLf or of any other person who can prove 
that the neighbour has killed his cat. The 
law is perfectly dear upon the subject: If 
your cat goes upon your neighbour’s land 
your neighbour may sue for and recover from 
you all damage that he can prove to have 
been caused bj' your cat; but he must not 
take the law into his own hands and kill or 
injure yot»r eat. The only possible excuse 
for killing a trespassing dog or cat is the 
excuse that to do so was the only way of 
preventing it from continuing its mischief. 


This would not avail your neighbour as an 
excuse; if he had some chickens and he 
found the cat killing them, and could not 
saves the lives of others without having to 
shoot, then he would have justification. This 
point has often been raised in the case of 
dogs chasing sheep ; but the case is different 
here—for it is a deliberate and preconceived 
method—not of preventing stock from being 
killed, but of anticipating trespasses by cats 
which may or may not do harm, and as such 
it is indefensible.— Barrister. 

Dismissal of gardener (Proper Notice).— 
In my opinion, you were entitled to a month’s 
notice, that being the custom with regard to 
professional gardeners doing greenhouse 
work. 1 do not, of course, know what your 
lute employer may have to say with regard 
to iiis agreement with you; but if you have 
stated the facts fully, it seems to me you 
have a good cause of action, and 1 should 
advise you to place the matter in the hands 
of a solicitor without delay. Tho eight 
weeks’ delay will make no material difference. 
—Barrister. 

Gipsy encampment ( Cotta,,cr).~ This is 
entirely a matter for the local sanitary au¬ 
thorities, and if you are dissatisfied w ith their 
attitude the best thing you can do is to write 
to the Local Government Board a letter of 
complaint. I expect; tho nuisance—that is 
the legal term for it has ceased before this 
answer can appear in print; hut if you had 
real cause of complaint against the local 
officials it would be well to pursue it by way 
of keeping them up to their duties. - 
Barrister. 

Life Interest and insurance (Flown'). — 
The demand made by the person to whom the 
reversion goes .is too preposterous for any¬ 
thing. You are the persons liable to insure, 
and so long as you do so your right cannot be 
interfered with or taken away by anybody. 
If the reversioner had occasion to believe that 
the premises were not insured according to tho 
terms of the settlement, then he or she might, 
take steps to obtain satisfaction (because 
obviously it would lie dangerous to his or her 
interests to allow such a state of tilings to 
continue). But so long as you pay the in¬ 
surance (quite rightly in your own name) and 
satisfy the executors or trustees that you are 
doing so, by production of receipts for their 
inspection, you are quite safe, in my view.— 
—Barrister. 


BIRDS. 

Red-mites on canary (K. William*). Re¬ 
move the bird, then stand the cage by a hot 
fire, when these red-mites, as they arc called, 
will be seen issuing from every crevice in the 
cage. They may be destroyed by pouring 
boiling water over them. You could also 
scald the cage in boiling water, and then 
well scrub it with strong soda-water and soap, 
rinsing it afterwards with clear water. When 
quite dry. paint it with Fir-tree oil, seeing 
that the insecticide is well worked into all 
the cracks and crevices. The mites oil tho 
bird may be destroyed by dusting it under 
tho feathers with Pyrethruin powder, or 
paraffin-oil may be used, it being a certain 
destroyer of all insect life, and quite harm- 
leas if used carefully. Hold the canary 
gently, but firmly, in one hand, and with a 
small camel-hair brush dipped in oil touch 
it here and there whilst blowing up the 
feathers, using only a small quantity of oil, 
so that the feathers do not become soiled. 
If the bird is in a low condition, put six 
drops of Parrish’s chemical food into two 
tabLespoonfuls of water for drinking. Give 
Canary-seed and the small summer Rape- 
seed, and see that the bird has a supply of 
suitable gritty material on the bottom of the 
cage. 

Food for bullfinch (Subscriber ).—The best 
food for bullfinches is Rape-seed (which 
should be scalded), with a small proportion 
of Canary-seed and a little Hemp. Give 
also occasionally a stalk of ripe Plantain- 
seed. a few' Privet berries, a piece of Apple, 
a few twigs of some fruit-tree, and a litllo 
Watercress. It is important to limit the 
allowance -©f Hemp, as the-fr^e we of it 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



558 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


December 14, 1907 


tends to darken the plumage; in,fact, bull¬ 
finches will often become quite black if 
allowed to indulge too freely in Hemp. These 
birds should be kept in a cool situation dur¬ 
ing the summer, as they are very liable to 
fits of apoplexy, and are generally very sus¬ 
ceptible to the influence of heat, which affects 
them injuriously. 

Death of Virginia nightingale (Mrs. W. 
Barnett ).—The bird died from inflammation 
of the bowels, the cause of which might be 
some foreign substance picked up with the 
seed given, aggravated, perhaps, by the wet 
weather we have been having, such birds 
being great lovers of dry air and sunshine. 
Your method of feeding is all right, but it is 
best not to be too liberal with the parrot 
mixture. A few shreds of fresh raw meat 
from time to time would prove u welcome 
addition to the bill of fare given.— J. T. 
.Bird. 

Meal-worms. —Meal worms may be bad on 
band always if you will follow the directions 
here given : Take a good-sized jam jar, or 
other similar receptacle, and into the bottom 
place some pieces of leather —part of an old 
shoe answers admirably—and fill up to within 
a couple of inches of the top with a mixture 
of equal parts bran and barley-meal, slightly 
damping the surface. Upon this place a 
handful of meal-worms, tie over with a piece 
of stout canvas, and place in a fairly warm, 
but not hot, cupboard, and leave for about 
four or five months, when the vessel will be 
found alive with meal-worms. Stale ships’ 
biscuit, if procurable, will answer even better 
than the mixture given, and almost any kind 
of meal will breed them more or less quickly. 
For a continuous supply, put down vessels in 
succession. A few meal-worms to start with 
can usually be procured from the vendor of 
meals.—J. T. Bird. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

Questions. —Queries and answers are inserted in 
Gardkmno free of charge if corresjwndents follow these 
ruJes: All communications should be clearly and concisely 
written on one side of the payer only, arul addressed to 
the Editor of Gardkmno, 17, Fumivalstreet, Uolbom, 
London, E.C. Letters on business should be sent to the 
Pcblisukr. The name and address of the sender are 
required in addition to any designation he may desire to 
be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, 
each should Ite on a separate piece of paper , amt not more 
than three queries should be. sent at a time. Correspon¬ 
dents should bear in mind that, as Gardening has to be 
sent to press some time in advance of date, queries cannot 
always be replied to in the issue immediately following 
the. receipt of their communication. We do not reply to 
queries by poet. 

Naming' fruit.— Readers who desire our help in 
naming fruit should bear in mind that several sj>ecimetis 
in different stages of colour and size of the same kind 
greatly assist in its determination. We have received from 
several correspondents single specimens of fruits for 
naming, these in many cases being unrijte and other - 
wise poor. The differences Itehctcn varieties of fruits are 
in many cases so trifling that it is necessary that three 
t-IKcimens of each kind should be sent. We can undertake 
to name only four varieties at a time, and these only when 
the above directions arc observed. 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

Fungus in lawn (A. K .).—The earth which you 
sent contained only the “spawn " or mycelium of the 
fungus, which did not hear any of the “ Toad stools 
or Mushrooms, by which alone one can judge of the 
nature of the fungus, the spawn in nearly all cases 
being so very similar in appearance.—G. 8. S. 

Unhealthy Palm (Ignorance).-# ee reply to 
“ Quarry," re “ Palm failing." We fear your plant is 
dead, due to potting it at this season, and also to 
the unsuitable soil you have used. You should have 
left the repotting till March, using as compost a mix¬ 
ture of peat, turfy loam, and silver sand. The soil 
you send is evidently very poor, and wants plenty of 
cow-manure, or, if this cannot be had, then well- 
rotted horse-manure will answer. We should not use 
lime. 

Market growing (G. M.).— Before you embark on 
this, we strongly advise you to obtain as ranch prac¬ 
tical experience as you rail in some large market- 
growing nursery. In addition to learning all you can 
as to the cultivation, you should also make yourself 
acquainted with the market methods of sale. You 
should have at least two years in a market nursery 
where Peaches, Grapes. Cucumbers, Tomatoes, and 
Strawberries are largely grown, with at least one year 
in an outdoor fruit-garden. 

Plants for cold greenhouse (Kerry). - You 
ought to have potted up llyaeinths. Narcissi. Tulips, 
and other bulbs which would come into flower in the 
early spring. You could also purchase now Polyan¬ 
thuses, Auriculas, Wallflowers, flowering Blirubs, such 
us Azalea. Rhododen(iron> Deutzia, Re*®, etc., all of 
which would bloom if the fpiui’i-' /*ldlvo> sown iu 
September some barfl y a| i\iafs in \Jicse would 


have come in very useful at the time you want them. 
It is now r too late to do this. The Hybrid Teas or 
Teas are the best for growing in pots. Y'ou can pur¬ 
chase plants established in pots now. Had you given 
us further particulars us to the size of the house, etc., 
wo could have advised you more fully. 

Palm falling (Quarry).-It is very likely that you 
have allowed the plant to become dry at Ihc roots, or 
that you have over-w atered it. The soil on the surface 
may look moist, but that in which the roots are work¬ 
ing may be very dry, lienee the withering of the tips 
of the leaves. We may here point out that if Palms 
once fall into ill-health it is very difficult to restore 
them to their original vigour. Again, nothing is so 
fatal to Palms as overpotting. The leaves should be 
carefully sponged about once a week, and only enough 
water given to keep the soil fairly moist, but not at 
all sodden. Above all things, do not allow any water 
to stand iu the saucers or vases in which the plants 
are, as this will cause the soil to turn sour, the plant, 
as a matter of course, falling into ill-hcalth. In the 
winter the soil may be slightly drier than iu the 
summer, but extremes of drought aud moisture must 
be carefully avoided. 

Six good dwarf single flowering Chrysan¬ 
themums <•/. M. It.).— You ask for six good single 
Chrysanthemums of dwarf growth, and mention the 
fact that you have already that flue bushy plant, 
Ladysmith. There nre few single-flowered sorts so 
bushy and free-flowering as the variety you instance; 
but we think you will be pleased with the following: 
Mrs. Buillie, a chestnut coloured flower of medium 
size, flowering in December; Miss Jessie Dean, a 
pretty, soft rose, with white zone round yellow' disc; 
Paris' Daisy, another November-flowering kind, pure 
white, of lovely form; Bronze Edith Pagram, a large- 
flowered sort, having beautiful reddish-bronze flowers, 
the base of the florets yellow. Earlawood Beauty is 
a charming primrose-coloured flower that is seen in 
tine form in late November, and Sir George Bullough 
is a deep-yellow flower of good form. Plants of the 
single-floweied varieties should be pinched several 
times during the growing season, hut never later than 
the end of June. By these means excellent flowers, 
and an abundance of them may be produced. 

The black Vine-weevil (C. Fo.r).-Your Cycla¬ 
mens are infested by the grubs of the Black v ine- 
weevil (Otiorrhynehus sulcatus). The only means of 
killing the grubs, without taking the plants out of 
the pots, that 1 can recommend is to make three or 
four holes in the earth at the side of the pots with a 
stick a little larger than an ordinary lead-pencil, 
putting a little “ vaporite " or a few drops of bisul¬ 
phide of carbon at the bottom of each hole, which 
should be below the level where the grubs are, and 
then filling up the holes with soil so as not to let the 
fumes of the insecticide escape. They will percolate 
through the soil, and will. 1 believe, kill the grubs. 
The bisulphide of carbon is a very inflammable 
liquid, and should not be exposed near a light of any 
description. The weevils, as I daresay you know, feed 
only at night, hiding themselves very carefully during 
the day. They may often be caught by laying, in 
the course of the day, a white cloth under the Vines 
or other plants they are attacking, and after it is dark 
throwing a bright light suddenly on the plants. This 
will generally cause them to fall, when they can he 
easily seen on the cloth. If this does not make 
them fall, tapping the leaves or shoots, probably, 
will. Tying small bundles of hay on to the stems will 
provide‘suitable places for them to hide in, or in the 
case of Ferns they may be placed on the earth near 
the plants. These traps should be examined every 
morning.—G. S. S. 


TREES AND SHRUfiS. 

Twelve good Rhododendrons (T. C.).—The fol¬ 
lowing are twelve good varieties, which ought to give 
satisfaction, provided you make up proper peat beds 
for them. Baroness Schroder, white, spotted; 
Countess of Clancarty, light-crimson; Earl of Shan¬ 
non, crimson; F. NVaterer, fiery crimson: Lady 
Eleanor Cathcart, rose coloured; Michael Waterer, 
rosv-scarlet; Mrs. John Clinton, pure white; Purity, 
white, with yellow eye; Sir 11. de TratTord, rose, 
with yellow centre; and W. E. Gladstone, rich rosy- 
crimson. Aliy nurseryman who grows trees and shrubs 
would quote a price each for the above and supply 
them. 

Propagation of Hollies (John Bell ).—Cuttings of 
Hollie6 strike only with difficulty, the usual method 
of propagating them being by seeds for the common 
kinds, and the others are budded or grafted thereon. 
Holly-berries should be gathered when ripe and mixed 
with a little sand in a cool, moist place in order to 
separate the seeds from the pulp. They may be sown 
in the spring in a sheltered spot out of-doors. Most 
of the seeds will germinate the second year. When 
the plants are al>oiit the thickness of a lead-pencil, 
thev mav, in July, be budded near the ground with 
the* choicer varieties. (2) Write to M. Vilniorin et 
Cie, Paris. (3) “ The Diseases of Trees," Hartig. Mac¬ 
millan and Co., Publishers, London. (4) Something 
evidently injurious In the soil. You should have it 
analysed by a chemist. 


FRUIT. 

Morello Cherry falling (Americu*).-A* your 
trees showed plcuty of fruit, which fell oir while 
stoning, the failure, no doubt, is due to dryness at the 
roots of the trees. Trees against walls are very liable 
to get very dry at the roots, this ending in the 
collapse of the fruit at stoning time. You ought to 
have given the trees a heavy soaking of water, and 
applied a heavy mulch of rotten manure to retain the 
moisture directly you found that the’ fruit had 
set. It mav be well to remind you that stone fruits 
badly need ‘lime, which may be wanting in your soil. 
If so, we should advise you to clear ofl the old. inert 
soil down to the roots and add some old mortar 
refuse and wood-ashes with either a couple of pounds 
of fine-crushed bones or bone-meal, mixing this well 
with the soil which you fill in to take the place of 
that cleared out. Y ou say the trees are old, in which 
case we would not risk lifting them, as you suggest. 


Apples and Pears scabbed (£. G. G.).-Tlie 
CatiTlac Pear is infested with the Pear scab (Fusi- 
cladium pirinum), and the Apples with Apple scab 
(Fusicladium dendriticum). The remedy for both 
diseases is the same. In the first place, dissolve 
10 oz.of sulphate of iron in warm water,and spray the 
tree« with the solution prior to the expanding of the 
buds next spring. After they have flowered and set 
their fruit spray again, but this time with Bordeaux 
mixture, and repeat the spraying at fortnightly inter¬ 
vals, or twice afterwards. Gather up and destroy all 
fallen fruits found under the trees, arid we should 
stronglv advise you to do the same with all you have 
in similar condition to those sent, as the disease is 
infectious. If you arc not in the habit of doing »o. 
we strongly recommend you to spray the trees during 
the winter months with caustic alkali solution, as 
this, though not of much service in subduing the 
above-named fungoid pests, is of the greatest value 
in cleansing the trees of insect pests, to say nothing 
about Mass and Lichen, which form abodes both tor 
hibernating insects and fungoid germs. 


Moss in croquet-lawn (Croquet lawn). — It is not 
too late to apply the sulphate of ammonia to your 
croquet-lawn, but as it is so over-run with Moss, we 
should much prefer to eradicate it iu a more effectual 
manner. For this purpose nothing is better than a 
long-toothed, iron rake, and. armed with this, a 
labourer couid dear a large area in the course of a 
day. It. is generally the best way to divide the whole 
area into sections, and clear one section at a time, 
which insures the work being done in a thorough 
manner. The surface should he scarified with the 
rake, first in one direction and then in the reverse 
order, when the Moss will become detached, and is 
easily cleared away. When finished, the lawn will not 
lie in a very presentable condition, and to encourage 
the Grass to grow the more quickly and hide the 
effects of the scarifying it has undergone, we should 
advise you to give the surface a top-dressing, con¬ 
sisting of loam, leaf-mould, well-rotted manure, ashes 
from the burning of garden-refuse, or any similar 
material. The loam should lie used in the propor¬ 
tion of one-half if the staple is heavy and two-thirds 
if it is light or sandy, the remainder to consist of the 
other ingredients named. After being mixed together, 
pass the whole through a half-inch sieve to get. rid of 
sticks and stones, etc., and then apply it to the sur¬ 
face of the lawn, about. 1 inch in thickness. Well 
work this in among the roots of the Grass by means 
of half-worn-out birch-brooms, brushing it first one 
way and then in the reverse direction, and finally 
give the surface a good rolling. It is rather too late 
now, for had it been September instead of Novem¬ 
ber, you could have sowed Grasc-seeds on all the 
bare places with advantage. However, should the 
Grass not have grown sufficiently to cover the bare 
places between now ami the third week in March, 
you pad better sow them down then, and cover the 
sr-rd think with fine soil afterwards. If unable to 
afford or obtain loam for the top dressing, you can 
substitute good garden soil for it, and, again, if 
well-rotted manure is not at hand, add bone-meal 
now. and give a surface dressing of sulphate of am¬ 
monia at the rate of l lb. per 40 square yards (super.) 
in the spring. This latter should be broken up 
linelv, and applied as evenly as possible. The bone- 
meai you mav use at the rate of \ cwt. for every cart¬ 
load of soil required for the top-dressing. Basic, slag 
would have benefited the lawn immensely, but. as 
this encourages a heavy growth of Clover, which 
is not desirable either ill croquet or tenuis courts, it 
should be avoided. 


SHORT REPLIES. 

Charlotte J. Vincent.— Without seeing your garden 
and knowing something as to its size, etc., it U very 
difficult to advise. We should ask the advice of some 

gardener in your district.- A. B.—The name of Hie 

Pelargonium you inquire about is Paul Crampel. bee 
reply to “ La Ko«e,” in our issue of October 12th. p. 
440 Skixdoi i.—Yes : unfortunately, your Black Cur¬ 
rant-bushes have fallen a prey to the mite.. See reply 
to " M. Fraser," in our issue of December 7th, p. ;j«4. 


NAMES OF PLANTS AND FRUITS. 

Names of plants. — Orchid, Enfield.-C \pripcdiuin 

venustum; of no commercial value.- Mr. Keren*.- 

Equisetuin sp.: probably E. nrvense.- Robert Kate- 

man.— Ornithogalum lacteura.- A. J. Kcvan.—l. l'it- 

tosporum Tobirn; 2. Andromeda floribunda: 3. Aralia 

chineiisis; 4, Olearia Haasti.- Sweet W illiam. 1, 

Adiuntum comannum : 2. Adiuntum concinnum latum; 
3, Specimen insufficient. When sending plants fur 
name, please put the numbers on the outside, and do 
not use wire for affixing the numbers. 

Names of fruit.— IF- .4 bra ham. —Probably Crimson 
Quoining. but difficult to say from one specimen only, 
please read our rules jus to sending fruit for name —— 
Mac.—London Pippin; *>yn. Five-crowned Pippiu 
probably. 

Catalogues received —Hogg and Wood. Cold¬ 
stream. N.B. — Catalogue of Xurxery Stock.- > vv . 
Cole, Midland Rose Nursery. Peterborough.--/.of of 

Sew and Choice Chrysanthemum*. -Jas. Backhouse 

and Son, Ltd., York. — List of Rose* for VJ07-19CS. 


“The English Flower Garden and Home 
Grounds '’-A ew Edition, 10th, revised, with descrip¬ 
tions of all the best plants, trees, and shrubs, their 
culture and arrangement, illustrated on wood. Cloth, 
medium Svo, I5s.\£ipbst free, 15s. 6d. 

"The English Flower Garden' may also bs 
had find:; bound in S vols., half vdlum, nett. Of 
all booksellers. 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


No. 1,502 .—Vol. 

XXIX. 

Founded by W. Robimon t Author of " The English Floicer Garden.” DECEMBER 21, 1907. 






IN DEX. 






Aulhuriunis, growing .. 

'<68 

Chrysanthemums, ucw 

Chrysanthemums, pro- 


Filberts and Cob nut}.. 

552 

Lily of the Valley 

572 

Plants and flowers 

542 

Salvia patens after 


Aspidistras failing 

572 


Mowers, cut 

•>31 

Manure, 'funks .. 

2 

Plants, greenhouse 

572 

flowering, treat meat 


Bay-trees in tubs 

•■/2 

legating early flower- 


Flowers in the house, 


Manure, value of fouls 


Plants, hard-wooded .. 

570 

ot. 

5 67 

Beech-trees, fungi on .. 



502 

sweet-scented .. 

551 

Meadow .Saffron (Col- 


Plants in tho house .. 

5/0 

Shrubs, forcing .. 

.*■>'.1 

Begonias from seed .. 

.>07 

Cinerarias. 

572 

Fruit garden 

570 

chicuni). 

.*66 

Plum Monarch .. 

56U 

Soil, clay. 

572 

Biennials, some goml .. 

565 



Fruit -trees, cleansing .. 

5.VJ 

Miltonia Bluuli Lubber 


Plum-tree, mealy bug 


Soils, improving.. 

5 ;*.i 

Books . 

571 

olios) . 

505 

Garden, a neglected .. 


siana . 

543 

on. 

572 

Strawberries, perpetual 


Brussels Sprouts, cater- 


Conservatory 

570 

Garden diary, extracts 


Orchard-house .. 

570 

Polygonum capiLutuin.. 

..47 

Tomatoes, making an 


pillars on 

no i 

Grata, ornamental 

550 

irom a. 

571 

orchids. 

•63 

Primrose, the Margined 

• ■*>7 

early start with 

570 

Bull is for name .. 

56*.> 

Creepers, evergreen, fur 


Gardenias losing their 


Outdoor garden .. 

.70 

Pruning, ruinous 

na'.t 

frees atul shrubs 

561 

Campanula scriiyllifolia 


north wall 

572 

leaves . 

7>72 

Outdoor plants .. 


Room and window 

544 

Trees and shrubs, litt 


Chrysanthemum (lowers 


Creepers for cool green- 


<! an ten pests and friends 

564 

Palms in the house 

5W 

Rose-roots, worm on .. 
Rose, the Altai Burnet 
(Rosa altaica) .. 

5*34 

iug and transplanting 

541 

deformed 

572 

house . 

572 

Garden work 

...» 

Pea, Sweet, progress .. 
Peach NobtesBo .. 

oil) 


Vegetatile ganleu 

5< I 

Chrysanthemum shows, 


Dahlias, storing .. 

572 

Gloxinias, seedling 

572 

530 

568 

Vegetables 

562 

the decline of .. 

562 

Deut/.io gracilis .. 

2 

Gooseberry, the.. 

560 

Pear Duron dean or do 


Roses . 

568 

Vinery, the early 

570 

Chrysanthemums ut 


Fabiana imbricata 

541 

Grass, a beautiful 

,i66 

Cong res. 

Olio 

Roses not blooming .. 

568 

Wallflowers for effect .. 

365 

shows, groups of 

562 

Ferns . 

563 

Hedge, a dividing 

..41 

Pelargoniums, window 

o72 

Roses, Pillar 

5ti8 

Wallflowers in a cold 


Chrysanthemums, early 

572 

Ferns and Grasses for 


Hotbed material 

570 

Femettyus, increasing 

572 

Roses, single and semi- 


greenhouse 

548 

Chrysanthemums lor 


cutting. 

570 

Indoor plants 

Laburnum failing, tho 

553 

Phillyrcae, inseets on .. 

561 

double. 

568 

Weeks work, the com 


October and Noveui- 


Ferns, Filmy 

563 


Plants for table decora- 


Royal Horticultural 



571 

her flowering, market 

562 

Ficus elaslica 

572 

evergreen 

572 

tiou at Christmas .. 

561 

(Society. 

571 

Y uceas in flower 



FRUIT. 

RUINOUS PRUNING. 

I WISH GARDENING ILLUSTRATED Ol' its lllUUy 
practical rentiers would help to save the 
English garden from the disgraceful priming 
one wees. When l go into friends’ gardens, 
instead of a healthy and fertile fruit tree 
standard, espalier, or pyramid l too often 
see masses of watery, gross shoots, and 
brutal cutting baek of all parts of the tree. 1 
have seen this in various parts of the 
country—sometimes in small gardens, where 
the owners cannot afford to give space to 
barren trees, and sometimes in large, costly 
gardens. 1 have seen lately tall pyramids 
which tiio primer had climbed up and cut 
the leading shoots of established trees hack 
like the ends of broom-handles. The leading 
shoots of such should not be rut barb at all, 
except in the case of a very ill-formed branch 
which threw the tree out of balance. This 
elementary knowledge could be taught to any¬ 
body. This ignorant practice would be right 
enough ill a Willow bed where we want a 
crop of strong shouts every year. It would 
be far better not to prune at all standard 
and pyramid trees than hack the trees about 
in the way described. The more we cut back 
the more we have to prune, whereas a tree 
rightly pruned should extend all its branches. 
Allowing all the main shoots to grow and do 
their work does not in the least prevent any 
necessary pruning of the side shoots or thin¬ 
ning of overcrowded branches—one of the 
most essential parts of pruning. 


CLEANSING FRUIT-TREES. 

It is distressing to note in so many directions 
the evidence which abounds of the presence 
of American-blight on Apple-trees. Only to¬ 
day. passing a garden, I saw a young tree 
partly affected with canker; on to every 
broken part of the stems American blight had 
settled. 1 advised the owner to lilt the tree, 
for it wanted more root room, and before re¬ 
planting it to thoroughly wash every affected 
part with petroleum, then to replant the tree 
in better soil, and shallow, adding some 
short manure, to give the tree the food it. so 
hadlv needed. How’ soon insect pests settle 
on trees that have got into a sickly or starved 
condition, where dressings with insecticides, 
let them be ever so potent, do nothing to 
assist, the roots of the trees td find food, and 
with these wood dressings should always be 
milled some good rout-feeding, especially of 
potash manures. Again, how many trees and 
bushes may yet be seen in gardens and 
orchards coated with Moss and Lichen? 
These parasites owe their existence chiefly to 
poverty of soil, and because it lacks food 
to sustain health and vigour. Trees stunted 
from lack of feeding have no chance to grow 
healthy, and they soop-^ill a prey fro both 
vegetab|e and inppet/parties, C^tl^ucb 


trees and bushes should be at once smothered 
with fresh slaked lime, which will, allowed 
to remain, cleanse the bark of its encum¬ 
brance in time, if this does not complete the 
cleaning, spray with the caustic soda solu¬ 
tion, one of the most effective dressings for 
fruit-trees in a stale of rest to be found. This 
spraying should be done whilst the air is 
quiet, and the operator should always have 
the wind behind him. A pair of leather 
gloves and some old clothing to wear are de¬ 
sirable, as the solution burns where it 
touches. Just one such spraying in January 
or February proves to be singularly 
efficacious. A. D. 

FILBERTS AND COB-NUTS. 

It is too often the practice in gardens and 
fruit plantations to assign the least favour¬ 
able position and the worst portions of the 
land to what Nuts may be grown. The trees, 
too, are commonly either pruned in an im¬ 
proper or half-hearted manner, or they arc 
left lo take their chance, like w ild Hazels in 
the hedgerows. Vet, where large, tender, 
well-flavoured Nuts are appreciated, these 
trees require, and pay for, thorough cultiva¬ 
tion. In Kent during the past two hundred 
years or more. Nuts have been successfully 
grown, owing to careful cultivation rather 
than to any special conditions of soil or cli¬ 
mate. Huge basin-shaped trees exceeding 
one hundred years of age, not more than 
G feet high, but with a spread of branches 
covering a space 15 feet in diameter, yet still 
in vigorous health, and bearing abundance of 
Nuts in favourable seasons, arc not uncom¬ 
mon there. A general idea prevails that no¬ 
where else than in Kent can these big crops 
be produced. This is, however, a mistake. 

To obtain the best results, select a fertile, 
deep, retentive loam, moist but not water¬ 
logged, a good, natural drainage being pre¬ 
ferred. Choose healthy young trees prepared 
in the Kentish style, with stems 12 inches to 
18 inches high, and having about six 
branches spreading outwards, leaving the 
centre open, thus gi'ing the beginning of the 
bowl shape the tree is ultimately to assume. 
If these six branches are shortened to growth 
buds on the outside, so that the resulting 
growths spread from the centre in two or 
three years’ time, twelve main branches 
should have been secured,*and these will suf¬ 
fice for the purpose in view. All strong 
grow ths from the main stem or the secondary 
branches must be cut clean out every year, 
as the object is to keep each branch some¬ 
what in the condition of a cordon fruit-tree, 
regularly furnished with fresh bearing shoots 
from spurs or shortened growths from the 
base to the apex of each. Crowding must at 
all stages be avoided, and the effect of this 
growth restriction will speedily be seen in 
the great size attained by the leaves, also in 
the development of the Nuts. The trees 
should be allowed a distance of at least 
20 feet- in the rows, and while they are ad¬ 
vancing to their full size other fruit trees or 


bushes of a more temporary character may 
be planted between them, unless the ground 
is cropped with vegetables. 

Considerable difference exists in the flavour 
of Filberts and Cob-nuts, and, unfortunately, 
some of the richest in that respect are not the 
most prolific; but they should be included 
wherever Nuts are to be made a speciality. 
In some cases there lias not been much care 
in keeping the varieties true to name, while 
different view s are taken as to which are true 
Filberts and which are Cob-nuts. The usual 
distinction is that the Filberts have oval or 
oblong Nuts, and the Cob-nuts rounded or 
angular Nuts; but though this suffices for. 
general purposes, in some trade lists the 
forms will be found classed differently. The 
Red, White, Cosford. and Frizzled Filberts 
are old varieties, which have found a place 
in British gardens for many years, the last- 
named being finely flavoured and very late; 
but there is another form grown in Kent 
under the same name, which is early and pro¬ 
duces large clusters of handsome Nuts, more 
useful generally than the old type, though 
tile flavour is not so rich. 'The Duke of Etlin 
burgh is sometimes classed under Cobs; the 
Nut is large, with a thick shell, but tins kernel 
is tender and of excellent flavour. The most 
noted of the Cob class is tlie Kentish Cob, 
though this also is often seen as the Lambert 
Filbert, which is considered to be the true 
name l>y some authorities. Like ull good 
fruits, it ha,s received several names, but 
it is unquestionably one of the most, valuable 
grown for the size, abundance, quality, and 
keeping properties of the Nuts. Merveille 
do Bollw viler produces the largest Nuts of all 
w hen well grow n; it is also fairly prolific, and 
the flavour is good, while the tree is both 
hardy and vigorous in habit. Pearson’s Pro¬ 
lific is useful for bearing in a very young 
state, much sooner than most of the others, 
and Bergem is also a fine Cob, bearing freelv. 
—The Field. 

PERPETUAL STRAWBERRIES. 

I am ii >iiI»h' Tiber to >our magazine.antHiaveliotoil jour 
answer* to the many enquirers who seek advice ami 
information from you. I want to net advice and in¬ 
formation regarding the English method of producing 
fruit U] ioii the St raw berry in the fall or winter 
season: tl) What maimer of greenhouse or frame 
( 2 ) Temperature required in England to obtain good 
results (our climate is similar to England)? (3) Varie¬ 
ties of Strawberries employed. (-1) Can this season's 
runners, grown in pots, he made to yield profitably 
or should old plants lie employed? (5) If old plants 
arc used, should their first crop be pinched olf to 
strengthen the plants for the winter effort? (6) 
Should the plants be set in solid benches or kept in 
pots, bedded in soil in benches? (7) Size of pots bent 
suited? I have no experience with the Strawberry in 
ibid seUbC, but- I am strongly impelled to make use of 
the effort and hints given to me by Nature itself. 
Here we have a magnificent variety, the Magoou, a 
somewhat lato berry, that throws a heavy second 
crop of blooms, and ripens some fruit from about, 
the middle of October to almost the end of Novem¬ 
ber.—E. C. Eye, Kent, Washington, L'.S.A. 

[A careful perusal and consideration of 
your note and queries have led us to arrive 
at the conclusion that it is information re¬ 
specting the cultivation of the perpetual «rr 








560 


GAR1) EKJXG T L L USTRA TED. 


December 21 , 1907 


autumn-fruiting Strawberry you are desirous 
of obtaining, and we, therefore, have much 
pleasure in affording particulars as below: — 

(1) A span-roofed or a three-quarter span- 
roofed house, usually designated a hip-roofed 
span, having side lights in both eases, is the 
best, kind of structure in which to grow these 
particular varieties of Strawberries. The 
internal arrangements, iu the first-instance, 
would be a footpath passing though the 
centre, with a flat stage, one on either side, 
fixed nearly level with the wall plates, in 
order that the plants shall have all the light 
obtainable. One or two shelves suspended 
over the pathway, under the apex, may also 
be arranged for, and, under these circum¬ 
stances, it is possible to cultivate and fruit 
a good number of plants in a house 50 feet j sarv. 
in length and 15 feet in width. In the case | 
of a hip-roofed span, the pathway is usually 
arranged to pass under the apex, which 
allows of a wide stage in the front portion 
and a stepped stage at the back. Here, 
again, shelves may be suspended under the 
apex for the accommodation of plants. This 
kind of structure will aiso admit of a good 
number of plants being grown, but of the two I and 
wo prefer the “full’’ span. (-!) Tlw» t-pm- 
l>eratures necessary to maintain 
55 degs. to 60 clegs. at 
night, and from 60 degs. to 
65 degs. by day, by arti¬ 
ficial means, consequently 
a sufficient amount of hot- 
water-piping must be fixed 
to keep the temperatures at 
the above-named figures 
without hard firing. (3) 

The varieties usually grown 
in England to afford fruit 
in autumn, and until the 
end of the year, are St. 

Joseph, St. Antoine Pa 
doue, and La Const ante 
d’Automne. Some Straw¬ 
berry growers obtain a few 
dishes front their spring- 
forced plants, but, from a 
commercial point of view, 
this kind of culture would 
nob pay. We would sug¬ 
gest your giving the variety 
you name a trial, because 
if it fruits so freely under 
ordinary conditions, results 
should bo considerably en¬ 
hanced if given special cul¬ 
ture. (4) Layers taken as 
early in the season as they 
can be had will, if all 
flower-spikes are suppressed 
up till August or Septem¬ 
ber, or according to the 
time ripe fruit is required, 
yield a profitable crop in 
the autumn of the same 
season. The plants forced 
or fruited this autumn will, if taken care of, 
and shifted on into larger pots next spring, 


some varieties of Pears, the season has cer¬ 
tainly suited the one named in this note, 
and fine, highly-coloured examples have been 
staged by numbers of exhibitors this autumn. 
I am much pleased to see this excellent Pear 
so much in evidence, as it is a great favourite 
of mine. It is what may be termed a general 
utility Pear, as it is equally valuable to all 
classes of cultivators and consumers alike, 
for its handsome fruits are a great ornament, 
and arc much appreciated at the dessert, and 
the same desirable features ensure for it a 
ready sale. Amateurs who have room for 
a limited number of Pear-trees only should 
plant at least one tree of it. Private and 
market growers are so well acquainted with 
its merits that further comment is unneces- 
A. W. 

ORNAMENTAL CRABS. 

There are many ways in which these Crabs 
might be employed by the planter—firstly, as 
isolated specimens, for on a small lawn a 
single tree, or on a large expanse a group of 
four or five will display their charms well, 
yield far more satisfaction than many 
The tern- j subjects that are in the first place more 
are from costly, and need much more attention after 



The Dartmouth Crab. Prom a photograph by Jas. E. Tyler, 
Halstead, Essex. 


yield a fine crop of fruit next autumn. Here, 
again, the flower-spikes must be pinched off 
during the spring and summer months. (5) 
By all means prevent them from fruiting eurh 
in the season. (6) In this country perpetual 
fruiting Strawberries are found to succeed 
best grown in pots 5 inches, 6 inches, and 
7 inches in diameter, the size varying ac¬ 
cording to the age of the plants, and stood 
upon the shelves or stages without anything 
around them. This allows of air circulating 
l'reelv amongst the plants, which is very 
essential, both when the plants are flowering 
and the fruit is colouring. To this end 
ample ventilation in the roof of the house 
must be allowed for, and provide wooden ven¬ 
tilators near to the ground in the side walls 
in such a manner that air, when admitted 
through them, shall impinge on the hot-water- 
piping, and become warmed before passing 
upwards through the latticed staging on 
which the plants are stood. in regard to 
growing the plants on the bench-bed system, 
we much regret being unable to afford infor¬ 
mation, but would suggest your giving it a 
trial.] 


Pear Durondeaufor de far*. 

ever 4U effects ma^XjiarVJeen 




►Whal¬ 
ed to 


they are planted than the Crab does. In 
ornamental woodland planting the Crabs 
should be borne in mind. Where a belt of 
shrubbery is planted for screen or shelter, as 
is often done, it frequently has a somewhat 
formal appearance, which may, to a great ex¬ 
tent. be obviated by planting a few standards 
of such things as these Crabs, which, spring¬ 
ing from an undergrowth of shrubs, are 
ornamental at all seasons, and especially so 
during spring when laden with blossom, and 
in the autumn when these blossoms are suc¬ 
ceeded by brightly-coloured fruits. 

A very lino variety is John Downie, which 
bears its small, but exceptionally bright- 
coloured fruits in the greatest profusion. It 
is certainly one of the best of the ornamental 
fruited Crabs. A distinct variety is that 
known as the Dartmouth Crab, in which the 
fruits are larger and more Plum-like, their 
colour being, when at their best, a deep 
purple-crimson, occasionally tinged with 
gold. The ordinary form of the Siberian 
Crab, of which, by the way, individuals vary 
a good deal, is, in many cases, very fine, and 
that form known as the Transparent Crab is 
quite distinct from the others. An article 
describing other forms of the Crab appeared 
in our issue of September 14th, page 375, 
with an illustration of the Tartarian or Yel¬ 
low Siberian Crab. T. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Plum Monarch. —This is a hardy, free- 
bearing variety, and possesses a robust and 
vigorous constitution. It succeeds well either 
as a standard, bush, or as a trained tree on a 
wall or fence, the finest fruits being borne 
by trees grown in the last-named form. Its 
free-cropping character was soon recognised 
by market and private growers alike, and it 
is much grown by both. The size and colour 
of the fruit, in addition to the variety being 
such a heavy cropper, are, of course, its great 
recommendation from a market point of view, 
while the fact of its being an excellent cook¬ 
ing Plum, and one which hangs well for some 
time after it arrives at maturity, without the 
skin splitting in wet weather, renders it 
valuable for private purposes. Sonic fruit- 
tree traders list Monarch as being both a 
kitchen and table fruit, but, with the excep¬ 
tion of the past season, I have never found it 
quite good enough for the dessert. This 
season the flavour was, 1 must say, excep¬ 
tionally good and rich, and, had the fruits 
been required, they could have been sent to 
table. The fruits are large, roundish-oval in 
shape, purplish-blue in colour, the skin being 
covered with dense grey bloorn. The flesh is 
yellowish, juicy, and agreeably flavoured, 
and parts freely from the stone. It was cer¬ 
tificated by the Royal Horticultural Society 
in 1894.—A. W. 

The Gooseberry. —This, to many, is the 
best of all fruits, and one, according to my 
estimation, far too much neglected in even 
good gardens. It is not only the cottager’s 
friend, but at the same time fit for any noble¬ 
man’s table. The culture of the Gooseberry, 
unlike that of the Vine, entails little or no 
expense; after being carefully planted, all it 
needs is good attention in 1 lie way of an an¬ 
nual top-dressing of rotten manure, and 
pruning, or, I might say, proper thinning 
out of useless wood. Pruning has been very 
much altered of late years; now, in most 
cases, the bushes are merely thinned; all 
misplaced and cross branches are cut away, 
and as much fruit-bearing wood left as is 
consistent with the strength of the plant. 
The thinning of the wood is. no doubt, good 
practice when quantity of fruit is required, 
and where it is used in a green state • but if 
fine, large, well-flavoured berries are the 
desideratum, the bushes ought to be kept 
quite open in the centre, and the main 
branches should stand quite apart from each 
other, thus allowing the admission of plenty 
of air and sunshine to impart flavour. 
Another point when handsome fruit is de¬ 
sired is to thin the fruit well. This is rarely 
attended to, but are not Peaches, etc., 
thinned?—then why not the Gooseberry? 
This thinning process is all the more neces¬ 
sary in the case of bushes of pendent habit, 
which in many seasons are so weighed down 
with fruit that it is utterly spoiled by lving 
on the ground. As to their after cultivation, 
the spade ought under no circumstances to bo 
used. Early in the season apply a top-dress¬ 
ing of good, rotten manure, this causing the 
fibrous roots to find their wav to the surface*, 
and thus invigorating the plant. Check all 
wood grow th by means of the hoe, and there 
will be no necessity whateVer to have re¬ 
course to digging in any form, either with 
spade or fork.- T. 

Noblesse Peach — Though not ;i fruit which ap¬ 
peals to ttie market salesman or the purchaser of 
Peaches from the shop, this, when quality is made 
the prior consideration, deserves uttcnliou. The skin 
is usually very pule, and without even a blush of 
colour in some soile; but whatever the colour may be. 
there is no mistaking the quality in a well-grown 
specimen. It must be remembered that not in every 
garden or every class of soil is the paleness of skin its 
marked character, for I have sometimes seen Noblesse 
of such bright colour that 1 failed altogether to 
recognise it. It is. however, of rare occurrence to 
find these crimson-cheeked Noblesse Peaches. 1 ant 
not sure whether it has been employed to impart 
quality in the raising of new Peaches; but. un¬ 
doubtedly, a blend of this with another of high colour 
—say. Crimson Galande. Haymakers, or Gladstone 
should produce a good Peach. Pyinond, Bellegarde. 
and Violet Hative are a trio of Peaches of a good 
colour, fine flavour, and melting flesh. It is un¬ 
fortunate that the taste of the purchasing public is 
so governed by colour—quality, uo a rule, taking 
second plove.- West Witts 

Index to Volume XXVIII.—The binding covers 
(price Is. 6d. each, post free. Is. Dd.) and Index (3d., 
post free, 3$d.) for Volume XXVI11. are now leady, 
and may-bo bad of all newsagents, or of the Tub- 
lisheij, post free, 2s. for_|he t>vo. 





December 21 , 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


661 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 


FABIANA IMBRICATA. 

Apart from any other consideration, this 
shrub is a most interesting one, as at all 
times, but particularly when in flower, it 
would be, by the uninitiated, at once taken 
for a member of the Heath family, whereas 
in reality it belongs to the* natural order 
Solanacete. Thus its immediate allies are 
the Potato, Tobacco, Datura, Oestrum, or 
Habrothamnus, and many others. 

This Fabiana forms a fairly quick growing 
evergreen shrub of a somewhat upright habit. 
The slioots are crowded with small Ileath- 
like leaves, and the flowers, which a ire of a 
rather thick, waxy texture, are pure white in 
colour, and borne in early summer. The re¬ 
semblance to a Heath is increased by the 
manner in which the flowers are produced, 
as may be seen from the accompanying 
illustration. 

It is a native of Chili, from whence it was 


LIFTING AND TRANSPLANTING 
TREES ANL) SHRUBS. 

I Until quite recently the dry condition of 
I the subsoil has prevented the lifting of trees 
generally, for, strange as it may seem, 
after having experienced such a sunless and 
showery season as the past one has been, the 
lower stratum was in a condition analogous 
I to that of the autumn of 1006, and that after 
a year of great heat, and drought. The heavy 
rainfall of I lie past few weeks has, however, 
thoroughly moistened the subsoil, and those 
wlio have much lifting and transplanting on 
hand need no longer delay. To lift, trans¬ 
port, and replant ornamental trees and 
i shrubs in a successful manner, it i« essential 
! that the soil about the roots should bo in a 
properly moist condition ; and, unless it is so, 

1 the prcepect of securing a good “ball” of 
soil with the roots i« a remote one, and on 
some soils quite hopeless. If at all dry, it is 
a difficult matter to get the soil to remain in 
a sufficiently compact mass long enough to 
allow of the tree or shrub, as the case may 
he, being lifted, and, perhaps, moved to some 



Fabiana imhrioata in a Herefordshire garden. From a photograph by 
Miss Southall, Ross, Hereford. 


introduced in lfi££, and, like many subjects 
from that region, it can only he regarded as 
moderately hardy in this country. In the 
south-west of England and in Ireland it is 
«een to very gnat advantage, the extra 
humidity that prevails in these parts, as well 
as the mild winters, being greatly in its 
favour. In a mild climate few' subjects are 
better adapted for planting near the sea; 
indeed, it will flourish within the influence of 
the salt spray. Even where it is not abso¬ 
lutely hardy, this Fabiana may be planted 
at the foot of a south wall. and. after l>eiiig 
secured in position, the shoots can be allowed 
to dispose themselves in an informal and 
pleasing manner, in the matter of soil it is 
not at all particular. Like many of its rela¬ 
tives, this Fabiana is by no means a difficult 
subject to strike from cuttings, which may be 
taken off in August, dibbled firmly into sandy 
soil in a cold frame, and kept close and 
shaded for a time. In the colder districts it 
forms an ornamental greenhouse plant, but 
is seen at its best where it stands out-of-doors. 
The handsome group we figure to-day is grow¬ 
ing in a Gloucestershire garden. X. 


coiuidorable distance; but if in the reverse 
condition, and proper care is exercised, the 
“ball” can then generally be kept intact. 
A piece of good, strong sacking or canvas is 
invaluable in lifting operations for passing 
under and enfolding the "ball” with, when 
the weight of the latter is such that more 
than ordinary means must be employed for 
raising to the surface and loading it on the 
truck or trolley. If the canvas or sacking 
is made quite taut round and under the 
“ball,” and then made fast to the stem, the 
“hall” cannot get broken. In cases of this 
description I have found it a good plan to 
place three poles over the tree or shrub 
in the form of a tripod, and attach a 
pulley-block having an endless chain at 
the point where all three meet and 
cross at the top. Then, if several folds 
of canvas or old sacking are passed round 
the stem in the case of a tree, and made 
secure with a scaffold-cord—leaving a loop 
in the latter for the chain to be hooked into, 
tho tree can be gradually and safely raised 
to any desired height. In the ease of a shrub 
having no particular stein to which to fasten 
the cord, the best way then is to take a board, 


Digitized by GOOglC 


and cut from it two lengths a trifle longer 
than the diameter of the “ball.” Pass these 
under the latter in opposite directions, and 
then pass the cords under the boards, and 
bring them together at any convenient height, 
or near to the top of the shrub; tie and form 
a loop for the chain to be hooked into, when, 
by hauling on the chain, the lifting can be 
quickly effected. Anvthing larger or heavier 
than this would require a proper mechanical 
contrivance ; hut that does not come within 
the scope of this note. When a tree has to 
be conveyed any distance, I have, after it has 
bee 1 raised as described above some 3 feet or 
4 feet above ground level, had the hole filled 
in, and then laid two stout planks over tho 
loose soil, on which a trolley was backed 
under the “ball,” and the tree loaded up 
without further trouble bv simply lowering 
it on to the trolley. With ' balls” of less 
weight, the loading can be done at the side of 
the hole if the chain is properly manipulated. 

As regards transplanting, the important 
matter of opening out holes of suffieient 
depth and width is the first consideration, 
and this should lie carried out in advance of 
the lifting, so that, no delay oecurs. To en¬ 
courage renew'ed activity as soon as possible, 
always provide a fair quantity of good com¬ 
post, suited, of course, to the needs of the 
particular subject being dealt, with, to place 
in contact with and round about the roots. 
Tho roots should have all the broken ami 
mutilated pieces removed, cutting them back 
with a sharp knife, when the wounds soon 
heal and emit rootlets. Another thing to be 
borne in mind is to mulch the surface on the 
completion of planting, for which purpose old 
hot-bed material, well broken to pieces, is 
best, being less unsightly and conspicuous 
than stable litter. There is yet another point 
in connection with the transplanting of trees 
and shrubs to which attention should be 
directed, and that is, so soon as the ball is 
lowered into the hole opened out for it, and 
everything satisfactorily arranged for the 
filling-in to be done, to throw in enough soil, 
so that the opening is filled to within 6 inches 
of the surface. Tnen, instead of treading or 
ramming the soil to consolidate it, give it a 
most copious watering, which will have the 
effect of washing the soil into and filling up 
all inequalities round the “ball,” and in 
making it much more firm and compact than 
can be accomplished by ordinary means. The 
same principle in a less degree should be ap¬ 
plied to the transplanting of shrubs of less, or 
ordinary, dimensions; and, if only plenty of 
water is used, it will leave the soil in a 
thoroughly firm condition. Finally, from ten 
to twelve hours should elapse before complet¬ 
ing the planting, to allow' the w'ater to drain 
away, after which stake if necessary, and then 
mulch the surface as advised. A. H. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

A dividing hedge. — I am anxious to do away 
with a row of Deodars. Yews, Portugal Laurels, etc., 
which <ti\ides the lawn from the kitchen-garden. 
The whole place is surrounded by these depressing 
trees. 1 have the landlord’s permission to cut them 
down. I do not want to go to unnecessary expense, 
and suggest trellis-work and Rose-poles and a border 
of herbaceous plants. It would face south-west or 
nearly west. The lawn is sunk nearly 3 feet. The 
objectionable trees take up over 9 feet of good ground 
and soil. Roses grow like weeds. What kind of 
trellis-work do you suggest? The border is about 
50 yards long.—F lorence C. Fisher. 

[We should strongly advise you to form a 
Rose hedge. For such a purpose you would 
find any of the Rambler Roses very suitable, 
such as Felicite-Perpetue, Bonnet’s Seedling, 
Aglaia, Crimson Rambler, Lady Gay, etc. 
You should take care that before you plant 
t.hc Roses tho soil is well manured and 
trenched deeply. You should also fix some 
poles to which you could fasten a few strands 
of wire to tie the Roses to to start them. The 
first season the plants may lie back to one- 
third their length. The following year cut 
hard back one or more growths and leave the 
others intact, save shortening unruly ends. 
To keep such a hedge in good condition there 
must be an annual cutting back of one or two 
shoots on each plant, this cutting back being 
quite to the base. The result will be that, 
splendid new growths will spring up, and thus 
maintain the hedge in a youthful condition. 
If you care to, yon may intersperse among 
the Roses a few* plantU'lvdre and there of 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 









GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Di' KMDEii 3!, 1907 




Cotonoaster Simoni and Eorsvthia suspensa. 
Again, if you do not care for the Iioses, you 
might make a Holly hedge of strong seedling 
plants, which can be had very cheaply. When 
sending queries, please read our rules as to 
writing on one side of the paper only. When 
the query has to he printed, as in vour ease, 
a great deal of trouble is thereby saved. I 

PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 


GROUPS OF CHRYSANTHEMUMS AT 
SHOWS. 

During the recent exhibition period I have 
met. with several groups of the old stereo¬ 
typed fashion, where th<* exhibitors appear 
to have done their best to make as stiff and 
formal an arrangement as possible. Plants 
i.urying handsome exhibition blooms have 
been shown in great, variety, and nothing 
could be said against them in this respect. 
It is their arrangement that one takes ex¬ 
ception to. The artistic disposition of the 
plants apparently had never been considered. 
Why do not Chrysanthemum and other 
societies when framing their schedules insist 
upon a more sensible and useful way of 
grouping the plants? Why cannot the for¬ 
mality of the groups be broken up by the 
introduction of some of the pretty free- 
flowering Chrysanthemums? Often these 
formal groups are almost exclusively com¬ 
posed of large-flowered Japanese varieties. 
We have nothing to say against the large 
flowers when they are properly used, hut we 
do take exception to the exclusive use of one 
type of the flower. Why cannot some oT the 
dainty free flowering singles and Pompons be 
brought, into use. and associated with the 
large blooms in the groups in the competi¬ 
tive classes? The trade have set a good 
example in this respect, and almost invari¬ 
ably they intersperse here and there among 
the big blooms in their groups examples of 
the free flowering smaller kinds. Mini have so 
much to commend them. Why are not the 
quaint, flowers of tin* large Anemones and 
Japanese Anemones more often used for 
grouping than is now the ease? Were the 
Chrysanthemum societies to insist on the dif¬ 
ferent types being represented in their groups, 
things would soon alter. Jl would not l>e 
necessary to have all types shown in the 
groups, but. there should he no difficulty in 
representing at least six types of the flower, 
and more encouragement should 1m> given to 
plants carrying a dozen to eighteen flowers 
on cadi plant. The effect of groups made up 
of Japanese. Japanese incurved, incurved, 
Anemones, .Japanese Anemones, Pompons, 
and singles, could not fail to impress visitors 
with the wealth of variety, both in form and 
colour, possessed by tin* Chrysanthemum. 
'The majority of those who visit our Chrysan¬ 
themum shows have little knowledge of the 
flowers beyond those belonging to the 
Japanese ami incurved types. 

C. A. IT. 


NKW CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

New Chrysanthemums during the present 
season have been numerous, and at the last 
meeting of the floral committee of the Na¬ 
tional Chrysanthemum Society, held on No¬ 
vember 18th. several varieties received a first- 
class eertilieate. Among the more note¬ 
worthy varieties exhibited on the occasion 
referred to were 


Bessie Evans, a Japanese reflexed flower, 
of beautiful form, having long, evenly re¬ 
curving florets, pleasingly drooping. This 
flower is solid, and should keep well; colour, 
creamy-white centre, the lower half of the 
flower shaded blush-pink. From buds re¬ 
tained rather later than usual the flowers are 
of a lovely blush-pink. F.C.C. 

Marquis of Northampton. —So well- 
known is W. A. Etherington as an exhibition 
variety that to say that this new sort is a 
sport, from that variety is to ensure for it a 


good reception. The flowers are large and 
of pleasing formation, the colour being bright 
bronzy yellow. An early bud selection pro 
<luce-» flowers w ilh yryvllow centre fuel bronze 


Digitizec 


li/fTvlInw centreliiul I 

Go gie 


shading round the lower half of the drooping- 
like blooms. From a mid-August bud selec¬ 
tion the flowers are of a very pretty bronzy 
shade. F.C.C. 

Mrs. J. Hygate. —The floral committee 
first classified this variety as belonging to the 
incurved type of tho Chrysanthemum, sub i 
sequently adjudicating upon its individual 
worth ns an exhibition flower. In doing so. 
they unanimously awarded a first-class cer¬ 
tificate. It is a very large, incurved, fine 
white bloom, of massive build, and deep 
withal. The florets arc long and fairly 
broad. 

Henry Prior. —We have already a yel¬ 
lowish huff sport from Mine. Gabrielle 
Debrie, and this new sort is another sport 
from the same variety. In this instance the 
colour has been described as buff yellow. 
As a. market variety or for conservatory de¬ 
coration, this is a. useful plant. 

Mab Kli.ih in an excellent market variety, 
the colour of which is bright- yellow. The 
flowers, which are of medium width, evenly 
reflex. This should he a useful sort to follow' 
the plethora of varieties flint flower in the 
earliest days of November. 

Foxhunter. —This is a striking market 
variety, the colour of which may l>e de¬ 
scribed as bright chestnut, with old gold re¬ 
verse. The flowers are rather flat, having 
fairly long florets of medium width, slightly 
curling or incurving at the ends, and reveal¬ 
ing the old gold reverse. F.C.C. 

Rev. R. D. Eves. —Although this variety 
did not receive a certificate, there are points 
of merit in the flower that cannot, fail to 
commend it to exhibitors. It is a seedling 
from Miss Mildred Ware, having long flat 
florets of good length, that build up a beauti¬ 
ful rofloxed bloom. The colour is white, 
tinted blush. 

Beacham Keeling. —This i« a pretty 
Japanese incurved variety that the floral 
committee asked to see again. The blooms 
ns staged were not quite *'finished,’‘ wanting 
another week to do them justice. The flower 
is of neat and even form, having fairly long 
florets of good breadth. The reverse colour¬ 
ing, which is the real colour of the flower, 
is a rich huff, the inside colouring being light 
chest put. 

Mrs. J. Heath. This is a seedling from 
the once popular George Lawrence, and is a 
Japanese incurved of loose formation. The 
florets an* of medium width; colour, bright 
chestnut, w ith golden-buff reverse. 

Pockett’s Surprise. —Tho floral com¬ 
mittee asked to see this variety again. There 
is no doubt that the flower has points of 
merit-. It is a good Japanese incurved, and 
the colour its a deep reddish-rose. 

Gretchex. —A pretty little single-flowered 
sort, that belongs to the small flowered sec¬ 
tion. Tho blossoms, which are of star like 
form, are borne in dainty little sprays, the 
colour being pure white, with greenish-yel¬ 
low disc. The plant attains a height of 
about 2] feet. 

Dorr ken.— -This is a good type of Iho 
large-flowered singles, each flower measuring 
between 2] inches and 3 inches in diameter. 
The colour is yellow, with a greenish centre. 
The blossom** are borne in useful sprays, in¬ 
dividual blooms having stiff, erect foot¬ 
stalks. 

Miss Catherine Buchanan. —Tn this the 
blossoms are developed in charming sprays, 
and their value is enhanced because of the 
high, well-formed disc. The colour may he 
described as light bronze, with yellow zone 
round the centre. Each flower is between 
2 inches and 3 inches in diameter. 

Queen of Pinks. —This variety is men¬ 
tioned because of the spidery character of 
the flowers. They belong to the single 
flowered type, having narrow florets, some¬ 
what fimbriated at the ends. Tho colour is 
light pink. The sprays are somewhat dense, 
and too compact ; it is therefore necessary to 
disbud this sort to obtain the best results. 

E. G. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Propagating early - flowering Chrysanthe¬ 
mums. --Can rut tines he taken now, nmt how sliould 
it tie done? Will they strike in a moderately warm 
ureeiihonce? Should the plants he out down now close 
to the ground or left rr- they arc? -Voi r\iKK- 

[Cultings may be taken from this lime forth 


until May next, and they may be rooted quite 
easily. Although the early flowering varie¬ 
ties may bs dealt with during the long period 
already mentioned, we prefer to insert, the 
cuttings during the month of January. As 
the days hegin to lengthen we have always 
found there is plenty of stork available on 
the old stools, and this kind of stock is more 
healthy in January than in December. Gut¬ 
tings should be about 3 inches in length, and 
should lie of recent growth and of a short- 
jointed, sturdy character. Seldom is there a 
scarcity of growths on plants that have lieen 
growing in the open border, and if these 
same growths he not too stout and sappy, 
they invariably root quickly enough. To 
make a cutting the shoot should be cut 
through with a sharp knife immediately be¬ 
low a joint. The lower leaf and leaf stalk 
should be trimmed off close to tho stem of 
the cutting, and it is then ready for insertion. 
The soil for the cuttings should Ik* made up 
of leaf-mould and light loam in equal quan 
titv. and after being passed through a sieve 
with a half-inch mesh should have coarse 
silver sand added to it in liberal quantity, to 
make the compost porous. See that the com¬ 
post is well mixed. Pots or shallow boxes 
may be used, first taking oai’e to crock these 
carefully. Cover the crocks with the rougher 
siftings of the soil, filling in to the rims with 
the. prepared compost subsequently, making 
this fairly firm. Before inserting the cut¬ 
tings sprinkle silver sand over the sur¬ 
face soil, dibbling in each one. and taking 
care to press the compost firmly at their 
base. Carefully label each variety as it is 
finished with, and water in with clear water 
from a fine-rosed can. Stand the pots. etc., 
on the side benches o^ the greenhouse, 
maintaining tho temperature at about 
50 dogs., or rather less. Cut hack the old 
stools close to the ground.] 

Market Chrysanthemums for October 
and November flowering. -As most, gar 
doners arc aware, a plant suitable for mar¬ 
ket must have a good constitution, and de¬ 
velop good, full blooms, which in list Ik* pine 
in colour. The following can he recom¬ 
mended for the purpose under notice: White 
varieties should he represented by Roi 
des Blancs. White Quintus. Ivory or White 
Slar. Elaine, and Alice Byron. Yellows arc 
numerous, and good sorts arc Maggie. 
Horace Martin, Soleil d’Oetobre. Lizzie Ad¬ 
cock. Mrs. Greenfield, and Phoebus. Of 
pink coloured kinds there is not so good a 
selection, hut the following can he recom¬ 
mended: (). J. Quintus, Murillo, Perl,* 
Rose. Mrs. Wingfield, X.C.S. Jubilee, and 
Pink lvorv or Pink Star. Of bronze 
coloured Chrysanthemums there is a goodly 
list, and the following are reliable: Harrie, 
Polly. Nina Blick. Source d‘Or. Victor Lc- 
moine. Bronze Soleil d’Oetobre*, Le Pactole. 
and Harry Go-vcr. Red and crimson-coloured 
varieties are fairly numerous, and the under 
mentioned should be in all collections: 
Goachcr’s Crimson, Market Red. Dazzler. 
Matchless, Howard H. Crane, Kathleen 
Thompson, Crimson Source d’Or, Souvenir 
de Lomhez. and the new Eoxhunter. In the 
foregoing selection, the plants hegin to flower 
in the earliest da vs of October—sometimes 
earlier—and the display is continued till the 
end of November, when the latest kinds—not 
in this list—come into flower.—E. G. 

The decline of Chrysanthemum shows.— 
There is no doubt, that Chrysanthemum shows 
have lost a considerable amount of the popu¬ 
larity that they enjoyed a dozen years or so 
ago. and a good deal of controversy has taken 
place as to the cause thereof. In the opinion 
of many, the increase in the number of 
classes for vases of flowers at the expense of 
those shown on hoards is answerable for the 
decline, while others contend that the vases 
have done much to save the exhibitions from 
further neglect. Other causes, too. have un¬ 
doubtedly played a part in the matter, one 
being the vagaries of fashion, the votaries of 
which after a time need a change, and trans¬ 
fer their affection to another class of plants. 
Again, the huge mop-like blooms are only 
too often borne on plants of no use for decora¬ 
tion—indeed, when Chrysanthemums nro 
needed for. the embellishment of the green- 
lions* or cOiUi*rCaton\ a ‘selection made from 
ill. show I i r.lo is quite nnlruwtworthi. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




X^EORMBER ‘21, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


5G3 


Lastly, one reason that I have never seen put 
forward for the decline, and yet, in mv 
opinion, it has played a considerable part in 
the matter, is the practice of bringing for¬ 
ward year by year n huge list of so-called new 
varieties, whose distinctive features—in many 
case-3 at least—consist of little but their 
names and prices. Except in size, it is very 
questionable if the show Chrysanthemums oi 
to day are in any way superior to those of a 
dozen or fifteen years ago. The early flower¬ 
ing varieties—a most valuable race- have, 
however, received many valuable additions 
within the last decade, and they are, I think, 
destined to become even more popular than 
they are now.—X. 

ORCHIDS. 

MILTONJA BLUNTI LUBBERSIANA. 
This handsome Brazilian Miltonia first ap¬ 
peared in 1887 amongst some imported plants 
in the establishment of M. Beelers, at St. 
(lilies. Brussels, and is named in compliment 
to M. Lubliers, curator of the Brussels 


I plant must either be divided or have a larger 
1 receptacle, for if the young roots have no 
soil to nourish them tlie growths gradually 
deteriorate. The proper season for repotting 
is February, as by that time the young 
growths will be an inch or two inches in 
length, and numerous small roots will ap¬ 
pear at their base. As the plant extends 
rapidly, considerable rooting space is neces¬ 
sary. Tf the plant has five or six bulbs, it is 
not advisable to repot the whole plant, as 
l>elter results can he obtained by cutting olT 
the front portion of the plant, severing the 
rhizome between the second and third bulbs. 
This part may then bo placed in a much 
smaller and more convenient-sized pan than 
otherwise would be possible, and which, of 
course, is a great advantage where house- 
room is limited. The old back pseudo-bulbs 
need not be disturbed unless the compost has 
l>ecome sour or worn out, till the following 
year, when by that time, if all goes well, 
several new hack growths will appear. By 
this method propagation is made easy. 

In repotting, use shallow pans, with suit 



Miltonia Blunti LuhLeraiana. From a photograph in Sir Trevor Lawrence’s garden at 
Burford Lodge, Dorking. 


Botanic Gardens. It. is n. supposed natural 
hybrid between the well-known M. specta- 
bilis and M. Clowesi. As may he seen by the 
illustration, the flowers are each about 
4 inches across, vertically, the sepals and 
petals light yellow, with broad, purplish- 
brown bars and blotches, and with a purple 
stain at the base, the lower part of the lip 
purple, with several red-brown lines; the 
upper part much lighter. Like its eogenerie 
hybrids and species, the pseudo-bulbs and 
foliage are of an oehroous yellow tint, which 
serves as a distinguishing mark of this see- l 
lion of Miltonias. The plant is not difficult 
to grow, and it flowers very freely. The 
flowers are of an enduring character, lasting 
for five or six weeks in good condition, which, ; 
where cut flowers are in demand, renders it 
a most desirable plant. The plant may he 
said to have comparatively little rest, for al¬ 
most as soon ns the flowers are over the de¬ 
velopment. of the next growth commences. 
Like the majority of Orchids, the plant 
should not be disturbed by repotting oftener 
than is absolutely necessary, but when the 
new growths have expended so far as to get 
bevond the confines tlio+t .shnlbwlnnj), the 

Digitized by VjUUQ 1C 


able wire handles attached. Let the drain¬ 
age be good, at least, two-thirds of the depth 
being filled with small pieces of clean crocks 
or well-dried pieces of peat rhizome. The 
plant will root freely in a compost consisting 
of Polypodium-fibre and Osmunda-fibre in 
equal parts, chopping it up moderately fine. 
Mix it. well together, and add sufficient small 
crocks to prevent stagnation of the compost, 
i Use no Sphagnum Moss whatever. Keep the 
plant raised a trifle above the rim of the 
pan, with the base of the rhizome just, touch¬ 
ing the compost, ami pot. rather firmly. 
After repotting, suspend the plant in a cool, 
shady part of the Cattleya or intermediate- 
house. If grown in a very light position, the 
tender Tobago becomes far more yellow than 
is desirable, and quickly assumes a sickly, 
unhealthy hue. No heavy watering will bo 
required for some time, but ns the growths 
lengthen and roots become more numerous, 
the quantity must ho considerably increased. 
After blooming the plant will require to he 
kept somewhat drier than at any other time. 
A very important item towards success in 
growing this beautiful Miltonia is to see that 
the numerous young roots that push out from 


the new growths are in no way injured or de¬ 
voured by insects The insects which do this 
should be trapped with small pieces of Potato 
or Carrots ; hollow them out in the centre, 
and lay them on the surface of the compost. 
Examine them frequently during the evening, 
and again early in the morning. 


FERNS* 

CLUB MOSSES (SELAGINELLAS). 
Although these handsome plants bear no re¬ 
lation whatever to Ferns, many of them are 
so similar in general appearance that it is no 
wonder if, by the side of a good collection of 
Ferns is often to be found one of Selaginellas 
equally worthy of note. They are most of 
them of very easy culture, and, as a rule, in¬ 
valuable for decoration, as their elegance can 
hardly be overrated, and their power of en¬ 
durance in many instances proves sufficiently 
satisfactory to enable their owners to use 
them for indoor decoration, as some of them 
succeed admirably in a Wardian ease. The 
majority of these beautiful plants come from 
the East and West Indies, and consequently 
require a warm, close, moist atmosphere, 
where draughts are carefully avoided, though 
some are quite at home in a temperate house, 
and a few are even quite hardy; but those 
which are found doing well in a comparatively 
low degree of heat are few in number. The 
temperature most suitable for the bulk of 
them is from fio degs. to 70 degs., and they 
will, by growing more luxuriantly, give even 
more satisfaction if the heat can be kept up 
to 70 degs. or 75 degs. all the year round. 
Growing" them in shallow pans is the best 
method of cultivation, as most of them re¬ 
quire room to spread and root upon the sur¬ 
face. They should he kept on the shady side 
or at one end of the house; in any ease, it 
will be found beneficial to have them kept 
separate from the Ferns, as they require a 
greater amount of constant moisture around 
and about them. To effect that, they should 
be placed on a solid bed. which constantly 
gives off moisture, or, if that is not practic¬ 
able. on account of the house being provided 
with stages, the latter should be covered with 
Sphagnum, to he kept wet. and the pans not 
allowed to rest directly on it. hut to be set 
up above it on three small pots or on an 
inverted pan. so as to avoid all contact with 
the saturated material. In that way the 
plants will derive all the benefit of the sur 
rounding moisture without the soil becoming 
sour. 

Although a few species do well in loam, the 
majority of them delight in an open compost, 
consisting of equal parts of good fibrous Peat 
and chopped Sphagnum, which will he all 
the better if old and partly decayed. A good 
proportion of silver sand and crock-dust 
might he added with advantage, as it will 
tend to keep the soil porous, which is very 
necessary, as they require copious waterings 
at the roots, although they have a particular 
dislike to standing permanently in the wet. 
For the same reason, also, it. is quite neces¬ 
sary that the pots or pans should In* 
thoroughly well drained. The fronds should 
not be wetted at all. 


FILMY FERNS. 

These beautiful varieties require no heat, or 
hut very little ; at least, that is the case with 
those which are best known. This in itself 
is a great advantage, although the fact is 
often lost, sight of. and many of the finest 
species arc ruined by being kept, in too warm 
a house. As long as the frost is excluded tin* 

' majority will be safe enough, and remain in 
! good condition for years. Humidity of the 
atmosphere beyond which many other plants 
require is essential to their well-being. If 
j planted out or grown in ordinary ferneries, 
for instance, they should have the coolest, 

. which at the same time will lie the moistest. 
| position in the house. They require but little 
I air, therefore sharp currents should be 
avoided ; none should heat, directly upon the 
plants. They will thrive, too, where many 
Ferns would not. do at all well, from want of 
light. In a sbfjlhfped pook of a cool fernery 
I they would In* found to thrive very well: 

I hut in order t > make success more certain, 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 










GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Pecemdkh 21, 1907 


564 


with tnfire vigorous anrt rapid growth, they 
should either have a house to themselves or 
be grown in glass eases. The latter method 
is, no doubt, the more practicable. For in¬ 
stance, in many places there are backs or 
ends of houses which are too damp for many 
plants to thrive well. Here, then, would be 
a congenial home for the Filmy Ferns, which 
would turn an unsightly spot into an attrac¬ 
tive one. Where about 2 Feet in width can 
be spared in such an instance, with length to 
suit, the case, a good collection may lx* formed. 
I would, however, prefer it 8 feet wide; this 
will allow of more room for rockwork to he 
built up to a greater height, with, of course, 
more width at. the base for larger plants. In 
such a place I would prefer the porous sand¬ 
stone. This will, at first, absorb more mois¬ 
ture, but the fact, of its doing so will lx? nH 
the better for the Ferns eventually, localise 
when charged with moisture it holds it, so to 
speak, as in a store house, giving it off but 
gradually, ami that to the benefit of the 
plants. Avoid the use of cement as far as 
possible ; if used at all, employ only what is 
actually necessary. For my own part, I 
would use mortar from frcshlv-slaked lime, 
as it does not contain the saline matter to be 
found in the cement. While this is being 
built up, fibrous peat should be filled into all 
interstices, so as to leave no vacancy. When 
finished it should he allowed to stand ns it is 
for a time, keeping it well syringed daily to 
get it fully charged with moisture before the 
Ferns are turned out. Rockwork can, of 
course, be dispensed with partially or en¬ 
tirely, but I would prefer, in some measure 
at least, to retain it for the good of the plants 
as well as for appearance sake. The parti¬ 
tion to enclose these plants off from the ordi¬ 
nary atmosphere of the house should be of 
glass, as low as the lowest plants may happen 
to be planted. There should lx? sliding lights, 
which will take less room and need not be 
unduly heavy in the make. 


ROOM AND WINDOW. 

SWEET-SCENTED FLOWERS IN TIIE 
HOUSE. 

The supply of these will now have to lx* ob¬ 
tained from the stove, forcing-house, green¬ 
house, or cold pits, outdoor sources lx*ing 
closed, with the exception, perhaps, of a few 
Violets in favoured localities. Amongst 
stove plants, the flowers of the old, but. still 
desirable. Franoiseea Hopeana emit a de¬ 
licious perfume ; so also do those* of Clero- 
dendron fragrnns fl. - pi. Among stove 
climbers Jasminum grnciMimum can lx* 
strongly recommended for its fragrance', as 
well as for the freedom with which it flowers. 
It well takes the place during winter that, the 
Ktephanotis occupies in summer. Gardenias 
may likewise l>e had where the stock is 
planted out, provided a high temperature 
can be maintained. Amongst greenhouse 
plants, Daphne indica alba and rubra are 
two old-established favourites, too well known 
to need recommendation ; the only thing to 
lx* regretted is that they are not better 
adapted than they are for purposes for which 
cut flowers are wanted. I do not see why 
they should not be grown planted out like 
Gardenias, with just sufficient heat, to ex¬ 
clude frost and dam]). In this manner they 
will, ]>erhaps. grow more freely than they 
generally do under pot culture. Rouvardia 
jasminoides and Humholdti corymbiflora are 
both excellent, a few blooms only of the lat¬ 
ter kind being sufficient, to jx*rrume n room. 
Carnations may also l>e recommended, 
though the fragrance is scanty at this season 
of tlx* year. Jasminum graiidifloruiu, though 
generally classed as a greenhouse plant, 
thrives I vest in a temperate-house, and yields 
a profusion of sweet-scented flowers through¬ 
out the winter. 

The forcing-house or warm-pit will give us 
early kinds of bulbs, such as the Paper-white 
and double Roman Narcissi and White 
Roman Hyacinths, as well as the old, but 
valuable, Azalea indica alba, the fragrance 
of which, though faint., is pleasing. Helio¬ 
tropes grown in a slight, heat will give out 
more of their well known perfume than if 
kept, warmer. We find White Lady one of 

Digitized by GO 'glC 


the host for pot culture. A good supply of 
Mignonette is always valuable; eown in 
frames or pits during the summer, an abun¬ 
dance may now be reckoned on. Violets are 
at all times useful; they do not, how¬ 
ever, succeed under the influence of London 
fogs and smoke. The sweet-scented section 
of Pelargoniums will yield foliage that will 
help to spare Fern fronds in many instances. 
In arranging any of the afore named flowers 
it is not at all necessary to have n large 
quantity of any given kind; specimen glasses 
and small vases will be best for most of them. 
Small quantities at. a time and frequent re¬ 
newals will 1 h? found in the long run to give 
the greatest, amount of satisfaction. 


CUT FLOWERS. 

A hood rule lo be observed by those who cut 
flowers for use in rooms, especially at this 
season, is not to cram the vases. Many 
flowers w ill last a long time if only they have 
a large inass of water in the vase and not. 
too many stalks to feed on the water and pol¬ 
lute it. The importance of this simple rule is 
really very great, and it, is one of the. healthy 
signs of the improved tastes and perceptions 
of the day to find vases that hold a large 
quantity of water now preferred to the 
spindle-shaped trumpets that lately were all 
the rage. Flat dishes, filled with w'ct sand, 
are also useful for economically using lip 
short-stalked or heavy-headed flowers; even 
partially withered blooms will revive when 
placed on this cool, moist substance. Moss, 
though far prettier than sand, is to be 
avoided, as it so soon smells disagreeably, 
and always interferes witli the scent of the 
flowers placed in it. When flowers in winter 
are brought out of warm houses into the dry 
air of a house, after being exposed on their 
way, for a shorter or longer time, to the cold 
outer air, and are put into ice-cold water, 
no wonder many succumb to such ill-treat¬ 
ment. If, on the other hand, they are 
popped at once into a good large basin of 
blood-warm water (or even still hotter), till 
they could be arranged properly, and the 
water in which they are finally placed were 
also warm, many people would be surprised 
to sec how great, a saving in trouble would 
result. With regard to plants whoso juice 
or sap is milky, this precaution is invaluable, 
for this thick milky sap readily coagulates in 
the tissues, and prevents the flower drawing 
up the necessary supplies of water, it is 
needful, therefore, to prevent this by thin¬ 
ning the sap as much as possible, till it. be¬ 
comes so thin that it can no longer clot and 
choke up the passages in the tissues; this can 
he done by slitting tlx* stem, pulling off the 
leaves, and then putting the flower in hot 
water, when so much sap escapes as to render 
it free from all chance of thus clogging the 
tissues ; and the flower in consequence will 
not flag. Poinsettiaa, with their showy heads 
of bracts, are a good example of this class of 
plant, and when treated in the manner de¬ 
scribed, will last- for weeks in an ordinary 
room without becoming unsightly. With¬ 
out. any such preparation they fade the first 
evening. 

NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Palms in the house. The Palm in its 
many varieties is, undoubtedly, the most 
popular of all fine-foliaged plants, and, when 
carefully tended, is amongst the most lasting 
of any. It is surprising how one ]x*rson will 
keep his Palms in good health while another 
under exactly similar conditions will lose 
them. It. must lx? borne in mind that Palms, 
as a rule, must be kept iu as small-sized pots 
as possible, to fit. tlx* vases they are required 
lo be put into, consequently the pots are very 
full of roots, especially at tlx* bottom, where 
they always congregate amongst the drain¬ 
age. Unless watering is done thoroughly, so 
as to reach these roots, it is rather harmful, 
and where a large head of foliage is to he 
kept in good health in a small pot, it follows 
that some kind of artificial liquid food is 
needed, or the luxuriant green that denotes 
good health will soon fade ; a little guano, or 
some of the highly concentrated plant foods 
that ar«? now so much employed by market, 
growers, stirred up in tlx* water about once 


a week, will greatly invigorate the plants. 
Then there is the important question of 
keeping the foliage clean ; and all plants 
with large leaves that are kept in dwelling 
rooms should be taken outdoors at least 
once a week and sponged with tepid, soapy 
water, especially on the under-side. After 
standing an hour, this may be syringed off 
with dear w r ater. Where these simple pre¬ 
cautions are taken, there is no reason why 
anyone should not keep such Palms as 
Kcutiax. Lfttmiiius, nr Gocoe Weddeliaua in 
good health for years. 1 need hardly say 
that when repotting is necessary it should be 
done in the later part of the spring, so that 
they may get thoroughly well established be¬ 
fore the winter comes on.— James Groom, 
Gozport. 

Plants for table decoration at Christ¬ 
mas. —The difficulty sometimes experienced 
iu not having a sufficient numlxr of plants 
for table decoration at Christmas is largely 
due to want of previous arrangement, and 
not owing to any particular trouble in getting 
them to perfection. In the matter of fine- 
foliaged plants, for instance, these should be 
taken in hand some months* before, potting 
on quite young plants of Aralias, Ficuses, 
Aspidistras, etc., ami giving them now ar.d 
again some fertiliser. Flowering plants may 
1 >e got together by potting up in September 
Roman Hyacinths, Tulips, Scillas, and Nar¬ 
cissi. The brightness of such things as 
Primulas, Cyclamens, Solanums, and Zonal 
Pelargoniums ought not to be forgotten. 
These are all very useful, and are easily pro¬ 
duced, provided they are taken in hand early 
enough, and brought into heat ns required. 
Late Chrysanthemums aro useful nt. a time 
of the year when flowers are specially appre¬ 
ciated. WOODBASTWICK. 


GARDEN PESTS AND FRIENDS. 

NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Insects on Phillyreas. I have, on the lawn. 

two fine Phillyrea-trees, 12 feet to 14 feet high, which 
are very dirty, as you will see by enclosed branch. 
They have been like this for several years, and 1 have 
had them fumigated, and syringed with petroleum 
mixture, etc., but. nothing seems to do any good. Iu 
the summer the flies (white) spread all oicr the garden 
and fruit-trees. The trees have also been top-dressed 
with fresh soil, etc. Can you advise anything, or is 
there nothing to he done hut to cut them down and 
burn them, and trust to their breaking * again '{ - 
Kl.M. 

fVour Phillyreas are attacked by one of the 
“snowy’' flies Ix'loiiging to the genus Alou- 
rodes. T am surprised that the ’‘petroleum 
mixture” did not kill them that is, if you 
used what is commonly known as paraffin 
emulsion, aixl applied it to the back ns 
well as the upper-sides of the leaves. They 
should be sprayed three times, with an inter¬ 
val of a week between each spraying. As 
this insecticide does not kill the eggs, a com¬ 
pound known as “V. 2” has lately lx*en 
introduced which is said to be suix?rior to 
any other spraying fluid. You might try it. 
-G. S. S.] 

Caterpillars on Brussels Sprouts —Is it not 

vpry unusual for the caterpillars of white butterflies 
to be feeding upon Brussels Sprouts, etc., at this tmn* 
of the year?—H yson. 

[It is certainly unusual for the caterpillars 
of the white butterflies to lx? feeding so late 
iu the year as this. 1 expect that the warm, 
fine weather we had in the early niitumn in¬ 
duced the butterflies to lay a late hatch of 
rggs.—G. N. S.] 

Worm on Rose roots 1 would be much obliged 
by Hie Editor of Gardening Ii.i.i stkated letting me 
know what the enclosed little white worm is? It- was 
found on the roots of a Rose-bush. Also, whether it. 
is peculiar to Roses, and whether the other Roses 
should be taken up and examined? Mrs. Poore. 

[The “little white worm” that you en¬ 
closed was the grub of a fly, but 1 am sorry 
that I cannot tell you iU name. *1 have seen 
similar grubs before, but I am not aware 
that they ever occur in sufficient numbers to 
do any appreciable mischief. Though they 
probably feed on the roots of plants it is 
quite possible that they may feed on some 
decaving vegetable matter in the soil. 1 
should not think it was worth while to take 
up your Roses to examine their roots, unless 
you have reason to believe that then* aro 
many of the grubs in the soil. 1 — G. S, S.] 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


!n 

> 

4il 

'Ul 

1r 


e 




December 21, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. MS 


OUTDOOR PLANT8* 

YUCCAS IN FLOWER. 

I OFTEN think that instead of continually 
hunting for good things, we should make the 
be«t of those we have. How often the flower¬ 
ing Yuccas are seen in a single Or neglected 
state, perhaps forgotten under bushes. Here 
is an example of setting out a good number of 
the plants in an open space in an orchard. 
Til-* effect, when in flower in relation to some 
of tin* groups of other lino tilings near is very 
oral. These are hardy plants—at least, we 
avo never known them to suffer from cold; 
however, they do want a little sunlight, and, 
we think, a little care in grouping. 


SOME GOOD BIENNIALS. 

There aro a few good biennials that are of 
the highest importance in the garden, and 
they arc so easily raised in quantity that even 
small gardens should have them. The 

Foxglove is certainly one of the best of 
these, and even in its typical form it is de¬ 
sirable, whilst still more beautiful is the pure 
white form, which comes fairly true from 
seed saved from isolated plants. But. even 
better than these are the spot ted-flowered 
typos with individual blossoms nearly as 


to fully develop its beauty and great stature. 
A sunny spot at the foot of a wall suits it 
admirably, and if it does not flower for two 
or three years the huge rosette of leaves is 
highly ornamental, and it is worth waiting a 
year or two to enable the plant to gather 
strength. The flower-spike often reaches a 
height of 9 feet, branches out, and beai'6 
thousands of yellow flowers, which are 
smaller than those of Y. phlomoides. Yer 
bason in pheenioeum is another very hand 
some kind, and a useful border plant. Ji is 
altogether a smaller s|>eoies, rarely attaining 
more than -I feet in height, but the flowers 
are large and showy, and quite distinct in 
colour from those of any other member of 
the family. In this respect they arc some¬ 
what variable, but the prevailing tint is a 
kind of violet-blue overlying a yellow ground. 
Where the Mulleins do not occur in a wild 
state, it is desirable to scatter seed of and 
introduce several British species about the 
wilder parts of the garden, as when once 
introduced they would, probably, perpetuate 
themselves. Of these the best are V. Thapsus 
nigrum, V. Blattaria, and V. pulverulentuin. 

Lamarck’s Evening Primrose (GCnothera 
Lamarokiana) is another beautiful biennial 
which can be easily naturalised, but, at the 
same time, it well repays cultivation. In 


is very rare to see it outside of botanic 
gardens. 

Lunaria biennis (Honesty), in its purple 
and white forme, is very pretty during May 
and early June. It should be grown in 
masses in the shrubbery borders, 6imply sow¬ 
ing the seed where it is required, and thin¬ 
ning out the plants. It is easily naturalised 
in the wilder parts of the garden upon warm 
hanks of light soil. In addition to the charm 
of its sweet, flowers, the flat, silvery seed 
pods which succeed them are highly oinn 
mental, ami most useful in a cut state in 
winter mingled with Pampas and other 
Grasses. 

All of the subjects enumerated can 
he had in quantity by sowing seed upon a 
warm border in June or July, and they will 
make strong plants to put out in the autumn 
for flowering the next year. A. 


WALLFLOWERS FOR EFFECT. 
Thousands of people every year are charmed 
with the fragrance and beauty of the Wall¬ 
flower, and it is not to l>e wondered at when 
one comes to consider that, for, sav, a shil¬ 
ling, one may have a beautiful assortment, 
the seed only requiring to be sown out-of- 
doors and plants shifted a few times before 
l>eing finally planted out in their blooming 



Effect of the smaller Yuccas in flower. 


large as those of a Gloxinia. The Foxgloves j 
should l>e boldly massed in and about the ' 
shrublrery or in the wilder parts of the gar¬ 
den and grounds, as it is only where they j 
are g**own extensively that, we can en joy their 
great beauty. They will flourish upon dry 
and sandy hanks where few other plants I 
would grow. The 

Vkkbahcums are biennials of the greatest 
merit and of exceeding beauty. The best is 
V. phlomoides, a kind which as yet has not 
Income very popular in gardens. Without a 
doubt it is the best of the whole genus, and 
it lasts in bloom for several months, for, un¬ 
like the Foxglove, in which the flowers open 
from the bottom of the spike upwards till all 
have expanded, the blooms upon this Mullein i 
are in clusters upon the spike, and I hey open 
in an irregular and protracted maimer, and 
one spike may have flower.; upon it for quite 
three months. The flowers are of a beauti¬ 
ful shade of soft yellow. V. olympirum is 
another fine Mullein, hut it can hardly be 
called biennial, for often it does not flower 
till the third or fourth year. It is a hand¬ 
some plant, having immense long woolly 
leaves which are of a greyish-white colour. 
V. phlomoides can he extensively used in 
largo gardens in hold masses in the slirub¬ 
bery. or in fine groups in the mixed border; 
but V. olympiemn requirea-% special position 

Digitized by CjO glC 


hold masses it has a striking effect. The 
flower-spikes last, % for several months. This 
is only one of an extensive family, but most 
of the other CEnotheras are perennials, r.rnl 
amongst the most valuable hardy plants we 
possess. 

t'KLSiA cretica is allied to the Mulleins, 
and is classed ns a biennial. Treated in this 
wav, however, it is rarely satisfactory, ns it 
is liable to get too forward and suffer in 
winter. It is best treated as an annual and 
raised very early in the year. It will then 
come into flower in late summer, and continue 
throughout the autumn and far into the win¬ 
ter, for early frosts do not stop ils blooming. 
Its rich yellow polished buds and yellow 
flowers are extremely beautiful. A biennial 
plant rarely seen in gardens is 

Mk hauxia Cam pan ui.oides. In a warm, 
sheltered border, where it could attain to its 
full stature of 8 feet, it would have a striking 
effec t, but, probably, in most places it will 
not attain to a greater height than from 
3 feet to 6 feet. It belongs to the Bellflower 
family, has Campanula-like flowers, which 
are borne on branched pyramidal heads, and 
are white, tinged with purple. It sometimes 
flowers the second and even the third year, 
but it is best treated as a hardy biennial. 
Such a distinct and handsome plant ought 
certainly to l>e more frequently seen, for it 


quarters. The. Wallflower needs no special 
culture to bring it to perfection in spring, the 
j chief conditions being good loamy .soil, open 
surroundings, and a long period of growth. 
Some there arc who look to the spring to 
usher in bulbs in variety, and no one would 
, seek to belittle the value of bulbs, hut, com¬ 
pared with the Wallflower in point of ex¬ 
pense, and we may say in point of fragrance 
too, bulbs take second place. I know many 
jjeople who have to limit the number of bulbs 
from the mere fact, that afterwards they arc 
in the way of other things; blit with the 
Wallflower it is different. To get the liest 
from it. it should he treated as an annual, 
the time of the fading of the blossoms being 
the period when seed should he got in for 
another year’s display. If this practice were 
more generally adopted, we should hear l°ss 
of failure with Wallflowers in winter, as this 
may often be traced to a late sowing of 
I seed, instead of giving the plants a long 
period of growth. Another mistake some¬ 
times made is enriching the soil with manure 
from the commencement. This is not neees- 
| sary; only in the final shift to their bloom¬ 
ing quarters is manure actually required. To 
introduce it before simply results in the plants 
becoming gross, huge s|>ccimens, which are 
the first to go uuder ini a severe spell of 
frosty weather. The old J3 Land -re fl_q ug 1 1 1 -±r> 

-I - __ 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 












GARDEMXG ILLUSTRATED. 


Decemdkr 21, 1907 


MG 


b iii every c ollet lion, i 1 s colour is so rich ; 
so, too, ought Golden King, Faerie Queen 
(lemon-yellow), Eastern Queen (apricot), 
Purple Queen, Ruby Gem (ruby-violet), and 
the scarlet and brown of Vulcan, ancl the 
various shades of red and brown of Harbin¬ 
ger, if an effective display is aimed at. What 
more beautiful result ran be had in spring by 
flipse planted nut in l»eds on a lawn m their 
different colours, or in long borders, edged by 
a belt of that dwarf sort, Golden Tom Thumb? 

This arrangement, to my mind, is much 
better than planting out without any regard 
being paid to the different sorts, if a shel¬ 
tered bed is available, or a border which has 
the advantage of a good fence or wall, the 
spring may be anticipated by planting a few 
of the Earliest of All, a variety which, if it 
cannot compare in the size of its blossoms, is. 
nevertheless, very sweet. It is a fact that 
many spend a deal of money on bulbs, with¬ 
out scarcely a thought for this old English 
flower. Hint for a spring display is unequalled. 

Ek\hi>kst. 

A BEAUTIFUL GRASS. 

The illustration on page 539 affords a good 
idea of the beauty of Cortnderia conspieua, 
more familiarly known as Arundo conspieua, 
when planted in a group. It is very rare to 
find such an example of planting, and especi¬ 
ally such a thriving colony ns the one illus¬ 
trated. A very fine specimen I saw recently 
on the lawn attached to Bratton House, near 
Westbury, Wilts. This had a wonderful pro¬ 
fusion of its beautiful beads, as the plant, 
being many years old, bad assumed giant size 
in breadth and height. Such a specimen 
makes a noble object for the lawn. The Brat 
ton specimen grows in black, porous, and, ap¬ 
parently. hungry soil, deficient of moisture in 
summer, but. presumably, its roots are bur¬ 
rowing deeply in the cooler stratum, where 
there may be more moisture than is found 
nearer the surface. This has a much more 
upright, growth than the Pampas Grass 
(Gynerium nrgenteuni), and. for this reason, 
will endure windstorms better. As pointed 
out in your note on page 539, the Arundo 
flowers earlier than the Pampas Grass, pro¬ 
viding a much more lengthened season of 
beauty. It would seem from observations 
made at different periods that the Arundo 
enjoys a dry station as nuuli as a moist one. 

I have recollections of specimens occupying 
elevated sites in rock gardens, where one 
would expect drought to he rather severely 
felt in div summers. Still, the plants s**em 
to revel in such positions. The Gynerium 1 
have known collapse from cold when the win¬ 
ter has Ireen severe* and the soil heavy and 
wet. The less pleasing feature about these 
fine autumn Grasses is their untidy appear¬ 
ance in winter--at least, until they are 
trimmed, and which is not advisable too early, 
because of the shelter the foliage affords the 
growing crowns. Especially is this so in the 
ease of the Gynerium. W. S. 

SWEET PEA PROGRESS. 
Jiidoiko from the annual report of the 
National Sweet. Pea Society, the cultivation 
of the Sweet Pea, both as an exhibition 
flower and one for ordinary garden decora¬ 
tion. is rapidly extending. Whilst, the mem¬ 
bership of the society has increased by sonic 
two hundred, its funds also have increased 
by upwards of one hundred pounds. Still 
further the report indulges in a hope that out 
of the myriads of Sweet Pea growers* in the 
kingdom if. will be found before the close oT 
the ensuing year that the moniliership has 
reached one thousand. In the ease of a 
flower that is literally everybody’s, and which 
the poorest, if they have gardens, ns well as 
the rich, can grow, such an expectation 
seems to be by no means over ambitious. 
One result of the interest shown in the 
society’s July exhibition in London is that 
many persons ask for a second day being 
added, inasmuch as they become familiar 
with the show’s existence only the morning 
after it has closed. The members, to whom 
the suggestion was made at the recent meet¬ 
ing. pin* tically admitted the desirability of 
a second d.iv heiiuwtdded, hut fiich an nr- 

' W " X 


Not only was general agreement expressed 
that the floral committee had recommended 
the exclusion from future trials of several 
scores of what may be described as inferior 
or out-of-date varieties, but the way the 
passing year’s trial of some 350 rows, chiefly 
of so-called named varieties, was conducted 
last summer, evoked the warmest praise. 
As such a trial is a costly item, it is sug¬ 
gested that with each variety sent for (rial a 
lee should Ik* added. That is not too much 
to nsk. Members of the society who may 
wish to learn all about the present year’s 
trial will find that information furnished in 
the society’s year-book. Very great, interest 
will also attach to the list of varieties so far 
known in commerce, date of introduction, 
and, so far as possible, name of raisers. 

Irish growers will be interested to learn 
that the society will hold a show in Dublin 
on August 5th next. The London show, at 
the Horticultural Hall, is fixed for July iMtli, 
a very late date for southern growers, if 
the season he a hot one. It seems tin* society 
had no option but to accept a date too early 
or too late. That- being so, the committee 
would be wise to book their London dates 
two years ahead. A. D. 


MEADOW SAFFRON (COLCHICUM). 
These hardy bulbous plants are widely distri¬ 
buted throughout the mountainous regions of 
Europe and Asia Minor. They range in 
stature from tiny alpine plants a few inches 
high, with a large number of small flowers 
nestling among their foliage, to broad-leaved, 
stately plants, with tufts of massive lilac, 
rose, or purple flowers, shaped like a giant 
Crocus. Many of these are elegantly 
chequered, while the colours of the others are 
softly blended. One only. C. luteum. has 
pale yellow flowers, somewhat like those of 
Sternhergia maerantha in outline; it flowers 
with its leaf-growth in spring. Upwards of 
a hundrCd species have received distinct 
names; of these about twenty may lie re¬ 
garded as distinct, and good garden plants, 
the others being mainly geographical forms 
or kinds of little garden value. Individual 
plants of a given species vary somewhat in 
colour and in other ways, both under culti¬ 
vation and in a wild stat \ and to this in 
part may he due the synonyms bestowed on 
these plants. The flowering season ranges 
from early autumn to spring, but some, and 
these the finest kinds, flower in autumn, their 
leaves and seed vessels appearing early in 
the new year; others flower in winter, their 
leaves and seeds appearing iu spring, whilst 
a few dwarf species flower in spring, their 
foliage appearing at the same season. 

Their cultivation gives very little trouble; 
they require to he plant d in August at the 
latest, and they may he well grown .u any 
good garden soil—that is, fairly rich and 
so that the bulbs may ripen well in summer 
just before the flowering period. The rarer 
species grow well, and ap|Tear to advantage 
in the front of elioiee herbaceous borders, 
and are effective on the flat slopes and in 
the deeper soil of the rock-garden, the soil 
around them covered with a carpet of small, 
shallow-rooting rock plants, sueli as the 
smaller Roekfoils, Stoneorops. and Speed¬ 
wells. Such plants will give to the brittle 
stem-like tubes of the Colebieums the need¬ 
ful support, and will protect them from in¬ 
jury by encircling the bulbs with their slen¬ 
der roots, preserve the flowers from mud- 
splashes during heavy autumnal rains, and 
give the background of green, without which 
no flower appears quite at its best. 

The common species. C. autumn ale, and 
its varieties, and other species which are 
obtainable cheaper in quantity, are well 
adapted for naturalising in Grass. Good 
effects may also he got by using them freely 
to clothe the higher hanks of streams anil 
ponds. They succeed and increase rapidly 
in Grass land if the site is well drained and 
the soil good. They can hold their own 
against all but the strongest Grasses, and 
they rnrclv fail to form Tinge clumps in a 
few years, producing hundreds of flowers 
from each clump. 

The bulbs and seeds of Colebieums con¬ 
tain a narcotic acrid poison, and children 
should he cautioned not to taste the fruits. 


No harm can accrue from handling the 
plants with ordinary care. Domestic ani¬ 
mals instinctively avoid them. 

C. AUTUMNALE (Meadow Saffron), our 
British species, has rich purple flowers, 
with cup-shaped perianths borne on tube 3 
5 inches long. There are a white variety and 
also a dark purple form known as atropur 
pureum. Planted freely in Grass, their 
effect is very fine. Album plenum is a lovely 
white double form, with a delicate pink 
centre, and rubrmn plenum is a rosy-purple 
double variety, with paler rose-tinted centre. 
Both deserve a place among choice plants in 
the rock-garden. 

C. Bi vova, a native of the Mediterranean 
region, and blooming in lute autumn, has 
pretty, star-shaped flowers, opening quite 
flat; they range in colour from purple-rose 
to lilac, faintly chequered with a darker 
colour. The leaves appear in spring. The 
plant requires a warm position in the rock 
garden or warm border, and is most effective 
planted in colonies of twenty plants or more. 

C. Born mu mart.—T his rare species from 
Asia Minor has lovely chalice shaped flowers 
8 inches long and 5 inches across, pale rose 
or lilac rose when first open, but changing to 
a richer purple with age. The lower half of 
the flower is white, and the leaves appear in 
spring. This species is one of the rarest 
and best of all. 

C. byzaxtinum is a Levantine species, and 
its easternmost form (C. oilicicum) is very 
vigorous, with pale rose-lilac or rose-purple 
flowers 0 inches to 8 inches high, the petnls 
strap-shaped, and not quire an inch in width. 
The leaves are very strong, measuring 
G inches in width by a foot in length. The 
bulbs are also massive, and. when fully de¬ 
veloped, larger than a man’s fist. The plants 
vary much; those from the Cilieiean Taurus 
are tin best forms, being mainly rose- 
coloured and very large. It. is a little too 
strong for the rock-garden, hut would prove 
useful for borders and naturalising near 
water, where its bold foliage would be in 
harmony with waterside vegetation. 

C. CROCIFI.OR i' M is ft form of the variable 
montanum, but a distinct garden plant, 
flowering with its slender leaf-growth in 
spring. It hears a tuft of white flowers 
-1 inches high, the petals of which are stripe.I 
with purple or rose externally. It is one of 
the best spring-flowering kinds for the rock- 
garden, and should he grown in little colonies 
of twenty to fifty plants rather than in 
clumps of two or three. Several other C’ol 
eliicuins hear this name, forms of the Le¬ 
banon and common kinds in particular, but 
the purple stripe on the exterior of its petals 
identifies it. 

C. Dkcairnei is an exceedingly pretty kind 
from Palestine and Syria. It bears rose- 
pink, ■self-coloured flowers, darker at the 
base, in shape like a Dutch Crocus, but 
scarcely so large. It flowers during winter 
and early spring, and the tapering, erect 
leaves, of lustrous green, appear shortly 
afterwards. This species is one of the 
choicest Colehicums for the rock-garden, and. 
like erociflorum, should be planted in colo¬ 
nies for better effect. 

C. HavsskxeOhtii is n Persian species, the 
flowers of which are long tubed, white or 
flesh-tinted, deepening to a pale purple with 
age. 

C. LATI M, a native of Asia Minor, lias 
long-tubed, chalice-shaped flowers of a pale 
rose-lilac colour, 8 inches or more long, and 
produced in late autumn. It is good alike 
for the rock-garden nr for borders, but 
should be given plenty of room. 

C. UBANOTICI'M is a small, spring-flower¬ 
ing kind front the Cilieiean Taurus and the 
mountains of Northern Palestine. Its 
Mowers of pale rose colour appear with the 
leaves in February. It is a charming plant 
to grow in colonies in the rock-garden in dry. 
warm places. This species scarcely differs, 
save in its larger flowers and stronger foliage, 
from the C. montanum, of which it may be a 
far-eastern form. 

C. montaxtm. —A pretty rock-garden 
plant widelv distributed throughout South 
Europe and Asia Minor. Its forms are 
numerous. They have star-shaped flowers, 
less -than 3 inches in diarneier. .produced 
in quantltv with 1 flic Jeavvk, and ranging id 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




DECEMBER 21, 1907 


G./I n DEW1JVG r L t VST It. 4 T E D. 


*/!« 

567 




colour from white through all shades of pink, i 
rose, and lilac to purple, each colour form I 
being confined to a certain district or moun¬ 
tain. All the spring-flowering Colchicums 
which flower with their leaves fully developed 
are forms of C. montanum. It may be grown 
well in any short, poor turf. 

C. Pahkin’Roni, a native of Greece and the 


sun and to keep them moist. It can be culti¬ 
vated in a moderately light loam, and it en¬ 
joys a little peat or leaf-soil, although neither 
is indispensable to this accommodating plant. 
One of its beauties consists in the charming 
silvery margins of its green, leathery leaves, 
which are of a dull green, but edged in a 
charming wav uilh silver while. The flowers 


Part of a group of Autumn Crocus (Colchicum autumnale) in the gardens at'Gunnershury Park. 


countries round, is a very distinct species. 
The flowers are star-shaped, scarcely raised 
above the ground level, and pale purple, dis¬ 
tinctly and prettily chequered with rich 
vinous purple. The flowers remain a long 
time in good condition, but a few days’ sun¬ 
shine robs them of their richly-chequered 
tracery. It is an old-time garden plant, 
perhaps better known as C. tessclatum, a 
synonym of C. variegatnm also. The star- 
shaped chequered Colchicums arc usually 
natives of dry districts, and require a warm 
situation in the rock-garden. 

C. Kibthorpi, a fine species from Greece, 
has hold, chalice shaped flowers, 7 inches In 
8 inches long, coloured a bright rosy-purple, 
yellowish within, and with both surfaces 
irregularly chequered deep rose. The flowers 
expand fully, hut. owing to the breadth of 
petal, never become star like in outline as in 
the other chequered species. It is very free- 
flowering. The plant grows well in the rock- 
garden or warm border, and, when in quan 
titv. should prove a useful species for the 
wild garden. 

C. HPErtOHUM is a variable hut exception¬ 
ally fine species from Asia Minor. It is 
vigorous, free-flowering, and easy to estab¬ 
lish; equally as well adapted for the choice 
border and the rock garden as for naturalis 
ing, attaining its fullest, size in a rich, moist 
soil fully exposed to the sun. The flowers are 
chalice-shaped, varying in colour from rose 
to purple, invariably paler in the lower half. 
O. s. album, a pure white variety, of garden 
origin, is valuable and very scarce. 

U. Tenoret. —The flowers of this are star 
shaped and produced in early winter; it re¬ 
quires a dry, warm spot under a projecting 
ledge of stone. It should he planted in 
colonies of a score or so to he effective, as the 
plant does not increase rapidly. 

C. variegati'M closely resembles C. Par 
kinsoni in its flowers, but the colour is rosy, 
chequered a richer rose, and they appear in 
autumn ; the leaves arc smaller, deep green 
in colour, and not prostrate. 


are on little stems, and are generally, of a j 
violet-rose, and with a little of the meal-like 
farina which exists on so many or the Pri¬ 
mulas in the eye. The whole height of the 
plant is not more than 4 inches, unless ii lias 
been allowed to grow for some years without 
i replanting, when its root-stocks increase the 
height. This habit, calls for some attention | 
in the way of planting in such a place that, 
top-dressings of soil can la' applied annually, 
unless replanting every year or two is prac¬ 
tised. There are several varieties, varying in 
size of flower and in I lie colouring, some 
being brighter and others bluer than the 
type. S. ARNOTT. 

Polygonum capitatum. This Polygonum 
is found on the Himalayas at an altitude of 
from 3.000 feet to 0.000 feet. It is often de¬ 
scribed as an annual, but is a true perennial, i 
though in most districts it is killed bv the 
winter frosts. In the warmer localities, how- ' 
ever, with a little protection, it will, come 
through the severe weather unharmed. It is 
i an exceedingly pretty plant in the rock gar¬ 
den. clambering over the stones with its: 
prostrate growth, and producing countless 
heads of flesh pink blossoms through the 
I whole slimmer and early autumn ; indeed. 


also comes from the Himalayas, but, presum¬ 
ably, from a much colder district, as it is 
perfectly hardy, and is never injured by 
severe weather. Of the two, P. capitatum is 
the prettier, owing to the brighter pink of its 
flowers. Both have the same creeping habit, 
and are thus invaluable for covering rock 
work. — S. W. Fitzherbert. 

Treatment of Salvia patens after flowering 
, (.S'.),- These plants should he lifted and afterward- 
| placed in a greenhouse or cold-frame where frost can¬ 
not harm them, fn the spring take some cuttings 
from the young growths as they appear, and the old 
j plants may he replanted as you would Dahlia tubers. 

Begonias from seed (C .).—You must sow the 
seed at end of January, and in a shallow, well- 
drained pan of light soil, which must he well 
moistened before sowing. Sow thinly and cover very 
lightly with soil. Place the pan on a gentle hot-licit 
or in a warm greenhouse to hasten the germination 
of the seed. When the seedlings appear prick them 
out and pot on as required. Before planting out 
| harden them well off and plant out in a light, peaty 
soil, not heavy, for preference. During the summer 
i they will given. bright display of fiowi rs. 

CAMPANUL A RERPYLIJFOLT A. 
This plant 1ms been known by the names of 
Edraiantlms serpvllifolius and Walilenbergia 
serpvllifolia. Now, however, the Index 
Kewensis ranks it as a Campanula, although 
I 1 lie Kew Hand List, according to the Cen¬ 
tury Supplement of “Nicholson’s Diction¬ 
ary of Gardening,” still keeps to the name of 
Walilenbergia. The little plant is a native of 
Dalmatia, whence it was introduced in 1889. 
j From notes that- have appeared from time to 
I time in the gardening press, it does not al- 
! ways appear easy of culture, some losing it 
after a year dr two, and others complaining 
that, it loses its leaves and goes off after 
flowering. It lias been advised by one ex¬ 
pert that it should be planted in an upright 
or abruptly-sloping fissure. Another authority 
recommends that it be planted on a dry 
south bank, just at the bottom of a rock, 
where it can spread over the surface, and 
states that it does not require to In* planted 
between stones unless the part is on a level 
with the walks and in a damp situation. If 
this is the case, he suggests planting between 
stones, filling in with grit and loam in equal 
parts, and placing the stones so as to allow 
the plant to creep over their surface. The 
plant hero illustiated ii growing at the edge 
of a narrow herder about a foot above the 
path and l! feet distant from a south wall. 
It. is planted in very gritty and sandy com¬ 
post of loam and leaf mould, mixed with 
small stones, and is in a sunny and warm 
position. Jt was a tiny plant when it was put 
in three years ago. but now is considerably 
over a foot across, and the picture of health. 
It is certainly one of the gems among rock 
plants, and when its Thyme like foliage is 
completely covered with large, deep violet 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

The Margined Primrose. Many of the 
beautiful species of Primula, although charm¬ 
ing things where they do well, arc difficult 
to manage in most gardens, and their 
lives are frequently all too short, for their 
owners. In Primula m&rginata (the Margined 
Primrose), a lovely little Swiss species, we 
have one of the easiest to manage of these 
species. Unlike P. rosea, which requires a 
moist place, this one is easily cultivated in a 
border near the front, of course, ns it is a 
dwarf species; or. better still, in the roek 
garden, which is its true place, as it is a rock- 
lover at home. It will, indeed, stand a good 
deal of drought if roots nre^betwoon 
stones^ Jpj ^shield tlumi fn 


Campanula serpyllifolia. From a photograph by Mr. 8 W. Fitzherbert. 


even to-day (December lltli) several flowers 
are on a plant. Even where it is killed it is 
not of necessity banished from the garden, 
for self-sown seedlings appear freely in its 
neighbourhood, and it is quite a common ex¬ 
perience for these to show their first leaves 
after the dead plant from which they spring 
has lw»en cleared awav. P. vnoemifolium 


bell-flowers, it, is, indeid, one of the loveliest 
sights imaginable. Every spring a top-dress¬ 
ing of leaf-mould and sand is given it, into 
which the young shoots root, and in dry 
weather it is given ample waterings in the 
cool of the evening. jflfrtfiQ border behind it 
Frcosins. Ixias and Sparnxis arc growing. 

IS. W. 1'lTZIIERBEHT. 

URBANA-CHAMPAI6N 







on 8 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Decrmbbr 21, 1D07 


ROSES. 


THE ALTAI BURNET ROSE 
(Rosa altaica). 

Although one sees signs of the Tevival of the 
taste for the little Seotcli Roses, varieties of 
R. spincsissima (the Burnet Rose), there are 
many who are not aequainterl with its ally 
from the Altai Mountains, sometimes railed 
K. spinosissima grandiflora, and sometimes 
R. altaica, although its full ap|k*llatioii is K. 
spinosissima altaica. These compound 
names of such length become a burden to the 
gardener - amateur or professional—and we 
will be wise to adopt either the English 
name of the Altai Rose or its equivalent, li. 
altaica, in speaking of this charming shrub. 
Probably nil who see it in bloom become 
enamoured with its beauty, if not too firmly 
wedded to the symmetry of the double Roses. 
Anyone who has seen a large bush of the 
Altai Rose, with its arching branches 
wreathed with large white flowers, will ad¬ 
mire it so much that he or she will wish to 
grow it in liis or her own particular garden. 
One cannot well compare it with the wild R. 
spinosissima, a native of these isles, for its 
stature is greater, it is more graceful, and its 
flowers are considerably larger. It is now 
many years since I first came across this 
(‘harming Rose in the Royal Hardens, Kew, 
and the possession of this plant in my own 
garden has only strengthened the admiration 
I conceived at. the time of first meeting it. 
Since that time many have admired it, and, 
doubtless, many have gained a pleasure by 
securing it for themselves. 

Like other forms of Rosa spinosissima, 
the Altai Rose is not fastidious in its ways. 
It looks charming on large rockwork; it is 
beautiful in the shrubbery; it is not out of 
place on a low wall; and in the border of 
hardy flowers it is an acquisition, while for 
those who have a sufficient number of plants 
it will supply one of the most beautiful of all 
Rose hedges it is possible to conceive. This, 
the Altai Rose, is worthy of the notice of 
those who like these simple forms of a 
favourite flower, and who have not already 
added to their gardens all of the race they 
are purchasing for the year. 

S. ARKOTT. 


SINGLE AND SEMI DOUBLE ROSES. 
No one who has had much experience with 
single and semi-double Roses can deny how 
beautiful and effective they are when used as 
coverings for walls or for draping pergolas or 
arches. So far as the single sorts are con¬ 
cerned, however, it has to be said that not a 
little prejudice still exists. Is this not so in 
regard to many single blossoms, many people 
going so far as to say that because a flower is 
single its value is thereby diminished? With 
such a conclusion I entirely disagree, and I 
think if those who have not given them a 
trial could have seen a pergola, as T did this 
last summer, festooned with flowering shoots 
of that handsome variety. Blush Rambler, 
their prejudice would have been swept away. 
One, too, sometimes hears objections raised 
to them on account of their short duration of 
bloom, but this is not quite correct of many 
of the varieties, and the one already men¬ 
tioned is noted for its long ]>eriod of flower¬ 
ing; indeed, I know few climbing Roses that 
keep in good condition longer than Blush 
Rambler, a point that was emphasised when 
it was introduced to the public, and which I 
can bear out has been amply justified. 

Almost everyone admits that one of the 
most pleasing methods of employing the Rose 
in a garden is as a climber, and in this con¬ 
nection some of the singles and semi-doubles 
are of great value. One remembers Fortune’s 
Yellow, that does well on a warm wall or on 
an arch in a sheltered position, and one of 
comparatively recent introduction, Waltham 
Rambler, bearing pale rosy-pink flowers, 
which fade to a creamv-white, pretty even in 
this condition. Carmine Pillar is a delight¬ 
ful single sort, producing rosy-carmine 
flowers all up the stem, and is very hardy. 
Ijeuchtstern yields many bright rosy single 
blossoms, and is a cajutal sort for a pillar; 

Google 


its foliage is also good. One of the most re¬ 
cently-introduced singles, and most prolific I 
with its blossoms, is Mm. O. G. Orpen, a 
rose pink, with gold anthers, flowering in 
clusters. Hiawatha, too, is another sort that 
is well adapted for growing over arches, giv¬ 
ing trusses of single crimson blossoms. One 
of the oldest of our semi-doubles is to be 
found in Bennett's Seedling, a small white 
clustered sort, that is not entirely denuded of 
foliage in winter. Flora is a bright roe, also 
a semi double, and Dundee Rambler, white, 
with pink edges, is an old and tried sort. 

Nor are we confined to Roses of the 
Rambler type, for in the Penzance, Austrian, 
and Sweet Briers we have some that yield 
delightful tinted blossoms. Those can be 
used to much advantage as hedges. In the 
Austrian Briers there arc the yellow and 
copper. In the Sweet Briers there are the 
well known Pink and Hebe’s Lip, a white ; 
and amongst the Penzance Briers we have a 
wonderful assortment like Anne of Geiersteiii, 
deep crimson-rose ; .Julia Mannering, pink ; 
Lord Penzance, fawn ; Meg Merrilies, crim¬ 
son ; and many others. The flowers of the 
single and semi-double sorts are effective for 
table decoration when cut. Some of them 
are borne in clusters, others in long sprays, 
and most of them tire possessed of nice foli¬ 
age ; some, indeed, enhancing in no little 
degree the flowers. One that I call to mind 
a*s a good plant for a lied is Rosa rnbrifolia, 
a soft, rose, stem and foliage of a reddish 
shade, nod some of them bloom early and 
late, like Bellefleur, a crimson with yellow 
anthers. 1 cannot conceive of anyone who 
takes an interest in Roses, especially for 
cutting for house decoration, omitting to 
plant a few, as they are extremely easy of 
culture, needing little, if any, pruning when 
once established, and if the climbing sorts 
can be given a place where they can ramble 
pretty much as they like, as over an arbour, 
for instance, the effect in a garden is very 
beautiful. It is on these grounds that I 
would recommend their culture, as well as 
for the prodigality of blossoms they yield in 
a season, and for the fragrance which many 
of them possess. 

WOODBASTWICK. 


NOTES AND REPLIES . 

Roses not blooming. -I have two climbing Rose- 
trees—William Allen Richardson and Boule d'Or. 
Both grow in houses, with artificial heat in winter. 
They have not flowered for years. They grow well, 
and are pruned hack. A Niphetos in the same house 
with the W. A. Richardson blooms freely every year. 
Can you advise me as to what should be done for 
them?—N. K. B. 

[You very clearly explain the reason why 
your Roses do not blossom, for you env they 
are “pruned hack.” This is just what should 
not be done in the case of W. A. Richardson 
and Reve d’Or. We presume you mean this 
latter, and not Boule d’Or. The Niphetoe 
blossoms so freely, owing, probably, to the 
fact that, it is the old noil-climbing variety, 
and this is noted for its free flowering habit. 
It may 1 m? made to cover a wall under glass 
some 8 feet to 10 feet in height very quickly. 
When we say the W. A. Richardson and Reve 
d’Or should not bo pruned, we mean that the 
long summer growths, if well ripened, should 
be left almost, intact, for it is such wood 
that, produces the best blossoms. Laterals 
springing from the main branches are best 
cut back to one or two eyes. If you treat the 
plants after this fashion you should have 
plenty of flowers this coming spring. When 
the plants are some five or six years old, it 
is then they can have some of their wood re¬ 
moved, and this is best done after the first 
blossoming. If you can train Ihe growths of 
W. A. Richardson and Reve d’Or in a hori 
zontal manner, such as fruit-trees arc trained, 
you should have plenty of blossom.] 

Pillar Roses —A word may not be out of place 
as to how we grow them here in mid-Kent. The 
varieties include such favourites as Dorothy Perkins, 
Crimson Rambler, Lady (Jay, Longworth Rammer, 
Carmine Pillar, etc. The Roses are trained on extra 
strong Hop poles, three forming a pillar. These poles 
stand well out at the bottom, and are not tied in 
too closely at the top. Put in well, all danger of 
being blown over is obviated. Much of the old wood 
is cut out rar b year, and tlie new wood tied in 
informally. The poles are lost to view when tlie 
Roso* are in all tlieir beauty. The pillars are from 
la feet to 20 feet high. —P. K. Cornish. 


INDOOR PLANTS. 

GROWING ANTHURIUMS. 

I should be glad if you could give me some informa¬ 
tion as regards the best treatment of Anthurium 
Andreanum? I have some large plants in 12-inch 
pots. They bloom freely during the summer, but 
some of the leaves are falling, and the plants look 
unhealthy. I should be glad of any information as to 
the general culture and watering? I grow them in an 
intermediate house. —L. D Hyland. 

[To grow Anthuriiuns in pots is not diffi¬ 
cult, provided a warm temperature, is main¬ 
tained all the year round, and plenty of at¬ 
mospheric moisture. Cleanliness is an im¬ 
portant point, both the pots and compost 
needing careful attention in this respect. 
Young plants arc usually more satisfactory 
than large, old specimens, the latter, owing 
to the almost climbing habit of some of the 
species, often getting leggy and hare of 
foliage below. Some of the kinds may he 
cut hack with safety, hut it is not always an 
improvement, as the side breaks form smaller 
leaves and spathes than the leading growths. 
Some of the varieties of A. Scherzerianum 
arc neat., compact growers, and these make 
fine, well-balanced specimens, that for many 
months in the year are indeed bright and 
effective. When well rooted, they may with 
advantage be allowed occasional waterings 
with well-diluted guano or soot water, either 
of these helping the foliage considerably. In 
potting, keep the compost, a little higher in 
the eentre of the pot, this helping to throw 
the moisture away from the stem. No old, 
sour peat should he allowed to remain about 
the roots, hut otherwise disturb them as little 
as possible when renewing the compost. 
Various composts are employed, hut a very 
suitable and safe one consists of peat, Sphag¬ 
num, silver-sand, and a little charcoal, 
which, if the pots are thoroughly drained, 
as they should be, will allow the water to 
percolate rapidly through, for stagnant mois¬ 
ture is very detrimental to this Anthurium. 
After the flowering season is over—that is, 
towards the latter part of the summer—is 
the best time to repot., and in doing so the 
greater part of the old soil should be re¬ 
moved, as, owing to the copious supplies of 
water, it will, in all probability, be partially, 
if not quite, decomposed, and consequently, 
before another year, would be in a state 
very detrimental to the health of the plant. 

Propagation. —To propagate any particu¬ 
lar variety division is necessary, as plants 
raised from seed vary a good deal ; yet it is 
this variability which renders seed-raising so 
interesting. The seed takes about a year to 
ripen, anil when this stage is reached, the 
pulp in which the seeds are embedded be¬ 
comes of an orange-scarlet colour, and they 
will then in a little time drop to the ground. 
Care should be taken not to gather them till 
they are on the point of dropping, when they 
may he rubbed up with a little very dry 
sand, in order to remove the glutinous pulp 
which surrounds the seeds, as the sowing of 
them is greatly facilitated thereby. Peat, 
chopped Sphagnum, and silver-sand form a 
very good compost in which to sow the seed, 
ami whether pots or pans are used for the 
purpose, it is necessary for them to be 
thoroughly drained. The pot. having been 
filled with the compost to within half an 
inch of the rim, the seed may be sown 
thereon, and just covered with some silver- 
sand, when, if placed in a close propagating 
case where there is a gentle bottom-heat, the 
young plants will not be long in making their 
appearance. By keeping them thus close, 
the Boil is maintained in a more even state 
of moisture than would otherwise be the 
ease, and, consequently, the seed germinates 
more readily, while the young plants during 
their earlier stages will do better in a case 
kept, moderately close than in the ordinary 
atmosphere of the stove.] 


Wallflowers in a cold greenhouse.— In 

some parts of the country one cannot expect 
very much from a greenhouse in which there 
is no heating apparatus; but even in such a 
structure spring may be anticipated some¬ 
what—particularly if the house is in a shel¬ 
tered position - by making use of one of our 
hardiest plants, the Wallflower, which is, per¬ 
haps, the most fragrant of our spring 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


Dig 


December 21, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


609 



blossoms. Now is the time to lift the plants, 
getting them up with a good ball of soil, and 
using fair-sized pots, so as not to cramp the 
roots. It is surprising what a show of early 
bloom one may have in a cold-liouse in spring 
with these oid things, particularly if a few 
varieties arc got together like Blood-Red, 
Eastern Queen. Golden King, Vulcan, Purpl • 
Queen, Harbinger, and Belvoir Castle. It is 
equally surprising, too, to find how they re¬ 
pay one, both for lifting and quality of blos¬ 
soms, if they are given a stimulant now and 
again.—F. W. D. 

FORCING SHRUBS. 

I would like to force :t variety of flowering shrubs 
in pots, to he sold wholesale in the market from 
February to May. How should I commence?—No VICE. 

[You ought to have bought in the plants 
in the early autumn and potted them up. It 
is a mistake to defer potting-up till the win¬ 
ter is upon us ; far better get it done early, 
so that the plants by 
fresh root-act ion can 
overcome in some 
measure the check 
they have received. 

The potting of this 
class of plants is 
oftentimes done in too 
much of a hurry, or 
only in a superficial 
manner. It pays, on 
the other hand, to 
give it good attention, 
more particularly if 
the stock of any kind 
is to remain under pot 
culture for a few 
years to come, as may 
be done in the case of 
Azalea mollis and the 
Ghent varieties, the 
Deutzias, the shrubby 
Spircea confusa, the 
early - flowering Rho¬ 
dodendrons, and the 
Guelder Roses. "When 
the potting is done 
well the plants receive 
more benefit from the 
start, standing much 
better when in flower, 
aii-d giving less trouble 
with respect to water¬ 
ing. Let soil suitable 
to each kind be 
chosen, and as nearly 
in accordance with 
that in which the pre¬ 
vious growth has been 
made. In most, cases 
this will consist cf 
loam, either heavy or 
light, with some peat 
for Azaleas and Rho¬ 
dodendrons. In every 
case pot firmly, not 
giving too large pots, 
but sufficiently so to 
make provision for a 
proper supply of 
water. After potting 
has been done, ami a 
thorough good soaking 

of water has been given, plunge the pots over 
the rims in coal-ashes, if sufficient are to 
hand : if not, use leaves instead. This plung¬ 
ing will keep the roots in a congenial state as 
regards moisture without needless waterings, 
and when frost comes the work of protection 
is already done. The evergreen kinds may have 
a few syringings if they exhibit any distress j 
in the foliage. A position for these plants 
should be chosen where they do not get much 
sunshine, a little being beneficial, either of | 
the other extremes being prejudicial. 

What is really needed when dealing with 
these early-forced shrubs is plenty of mois¬ 
ture, to induce them to start into growth 
kindly. Three or four syringings during the 
day, with another at nightfall, will lie none 
too much. Do not allow the plants to suffer 
from want of water at the roots. If xou can 
etand them on a bed jf leases. with. 1 gentle 
warmth, moisture wef4[rom, 

they will do much better than i(3 tC0( l on 
stages or even on a dry bottom. Iiyou 'want 


to keep up a succession, introduce a few of 
each respective kind. Those which are left 
in the open should be plunged 2 inches or 
3 inches over the rims of the pots, to save 
the pots from breakage, and also benefit the 
plants themselves. 

The best plants for the foregoing purposes 
are Andromeda floribunda, Azaleas (both 
mollis and Ghent varieties), Deutzia gracilis 
and D. crenata flore-pleno, Hydrangea pani- 
culata grandiflora, Kalmia latifnlia, Lilac 
Charles X., and the beautiful white variety, 
Marie Legraye (here figured), Prunus sinensis 
fl.-pi.. Rhododendron Early Gem. R. Noblc- 
anum in several shades of colour, R. Cunning¬ 
ham’s dwarf white and other early-flowering 
hybrids, Ktaphylea eolchica, Viburnum Opu- 
lus (Guelder Rose), Spinea confusa, etc*. 

You will find a very interesting article, en¬ 
titled “Hardy Shrubs for Forcing,” in our 
issue cf July 22nd, 1905, page 269. a copy of 


Lilac Miuic Lcgraj i. 


From a photograph sent by Miss M. L. Southall, 
The Graig, Ross, Hereford. 


which can be bail uf the publisher, post free, 
for Ld.] 

NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Bulbs for name — I am sending some bulbs, and 
shall feel obliged if you could kindly tell me what 
they are called? The centre bulb was brought from 
Nigeria three years ago. and threw out the side ones 
last year. I should also feel very much obliged if 
you could tell me how they should be cultivated? 
This and others of the same kind that came with it 
have been kept in a warm-house, with the lowest 
temperature in winter about 0 ;j deg*. They have not 
flowered, hut the foliage has remained healthy, and 
they have thrown out bulbs. They have been treated 
in the same way as Crintin’s, and not much water 
given them.— E. A. Money, Col. 

[Without flowers it is, of course, impossible 
to say, but we have little doubt that the bulb 
sent is a species of Hippeastrum, generally 
known in gardens as Amaryllis. The Hip- 
pcastrums are all natives of the western con¬ 
tinent, but one species in particular—viz., 
H. equestre, the Barbadoes Lily occurs now 
in many of the tropical porti globe. 


We think very probably that yours is this 
species. Hippeastrums should be at the pre¬ 
sent time in an absolutely dormant state, and 
a structure with'a minimum winter tempera¬ 
ture of 50 degs. will suit them well. At this 
stage they will require no water whatever. 
Then, about the end of January, the soil may 
be kept slightly moist, and the plants are 
then all the better for a little more bent. 
The leaves will then, after a short time, be 
pushed up, followed by the flower-spikes. 
After flowering, the minimum may be in¬ 
creased to 55 d?gs.. the plants being stood 
in a good light position. At this stage they 
must be watered freely, giving them, if the 
pots are well furnished with roots, a dose of 
weak liquid-manure once a fortnight. Slight 
shade from the full rays of the sun and a 
free circulation of air are, at this stage, of 
considerable assistance. Such treatment will 
result in good, free growth, the bulb thus 
storing up supplies for another year. By the 
month of August the growth will be just 
about completed, when the water supply 
must be lessened, and the plants fully ex¬ 
posed to the sun. By the end of September 
most of the bulbs will, in all probability, be 
quite dormant. They may then be kepi dry 
till the end of January. If the course of 
treatment we have detailed is followed you 
will, probably, lie rewarded with blooms in 
1909. Of course, some of them may flower 
next spring.] 


VEGETABLES. 

IMPROVING SOILS. 

In gardens where the soiL is not entirely 
satisfactory it should be the aim of those in 
charge to bring each year a portion, large 
or small, into better condition. Clay soils 
are generally more or less troublesome to 
work, and some clays are very bad indeed, 
the weather and state of the ground having 
to be very closely watched to permit of their 
being worked at all in a satisfactory way. 
At the same time, it should be remembered 
that such soils are generally the most pro¬ 
ductive. and whatever method is chosen to 
ameliorate their condition should not Ixj too 
drastic or cariied too far. Probably the best 
method of dealing with troublesome heavy 
soils is to hake a portion of the surface soil 
sufficiently to destroy its tenacity, spreading 
and digging it in later on ; this will have 
an excellent effect, and no better time than 
early winter can In* chosen for the work. 
The method of burning is simple, and the 
only material required is some slack coal, 
plenty of which can generally be found in 
stokeholes, and some kindling wood. Small 
heaps of this should first, of all be got well 
alight here and there all over the plot, which 
is to Ik* treated ; each heap should then lie. 
hanked with clods of soil, rut out roughly and 
not too closely packed, as room should be 
left between crevices for further supplies of 
the slack, and the heaps should have both 
soil ami slack added to them from time lo 
time, taking care, on the one hand. not. to 
smother the fire entirely with too great a 
weight of soil, and. on the other hand, not to 
allow the fire io break through and burn 
fiercely. Of course, much may le? done in 
the wav of improvement by digging in all 
available, light material, sut h as leaf-mould, 
tan, decayed Cocoa-nut fibre, and the like ; 
hut thevse things can -rarely be had in suf¬ 
ficient quantities to make any appreciable 
difference for some years, and burning as I 
suggest will surely be found tlie best and 
quickest way cf dealing with such soils. The 
addition of light material may also be done 
as a supplementary measure. In writing 
thus, I am taking for granted that the soil 
is already well drained ; if not, this should 
1>9 the first thing done, and the result watched 
for a year before further measures are taken, 
as many so-called heavy soils only require 
draining to bring them into excellent condi¬ 
tion. 

Light soils are less troublesome, if less pro¬ 
ductive, and if oyer-light may readily be im¬ 
proved by having a coating of marl— i.r., 
clay which becomes disintegrated under the 
action of frost, spread on the surface in early 
winter and dug in in-spring. This coating 
should be more or less heavy, according to 









anwEmj\ g illUjSUUtjw. 


Pec embek 2 1, 1907 


t>70 

the degree of lightness of the staple soil. 
Over-rich soils are not uncommon in gardens 
where manure has been easily obtained over 
a number of years. The plants grown will 
generally betray ground of such a nature, as 
the growth is gross, though unfruitful, and 
many things are particularly liable to flag 
under a light sun, even when the soil i,s not 
dry. If either of these symptoms has been 
noted on the crops, ordinary manures should 
he withheld for a time, and lime should be 
freely used as a substitute, as this will set 
bottled up mauurial properties free, and 
bring tin- soil back into a sweet state. 


HOTBED MATERIAL. 

11«>Tbeds play an important part in the pro¬ 
duct ion of much valuable early garden pro¬ 
duce. also in the raising of numerous plants 
for putting out early in the vegetable garden, 
and the time has arrived for collecting and 
preparing a good heap of material. Where 
they eau be obtained, nothing answers so 
well as Oak and Beech leaves, either with or 
without the addition of strawy stable or farm¬ 
yard manure. This season, owing to the 
long-continued spell of wet, dull weather, 
the leaves arc not drifting together nearly so 
well as usual, and a sufficiency will not easily 
bo collected, those from the park trees being 
what we mostly rely upon. From whatever 
source obtained, all ought to be brought to¬ 
gether and thrown into a heap, where they 
will, should the weather continue mild, soon 
begin to ferment. The strawy manure should 
also undergo a similar preparation, and. after 
being turned twiee, be eventually mixed with 
the leaves. If the material has to be used 
principally in the open air. very little further 
preparation is needed; but if it is to be 
formed into beds in a heated house, there is 
more likelihood of its becoming much too 
hot. In this case, therefore, the heap of 
leaves and manure should lie allowed to be 
come quite hot in the centre, being then 
turned inside out, and in the course of about 
a week ought to be sufficiently sweetened 
and prepared for any purpose. When a 
large heap of leaves is wanted for late hot¬ 
beds. the best way to keep them from heating 
at the present time, and thereby being spoilt, 
is to heavily trample them together, the de¬ 
composition of solid masses being much 
slower than in the ea v * in loose heaps. When 
stable manure is used with an addition of an j 
equal bulk of leaves, it is apt to become 
violently hot, the rank heat and injurious 
gases given off injuring any delicate plants 
confined over them. More care must, there¬ 
fore. be expended upon its preparation, and 
a greater watchfulness for sudden changes in 
the beds, brought about, say. by a change 
from a cold, windy period to milder weather. 
A few hours’ neglect often ruins Mcakale, 
Rhubarb, or some confined crop being forced 
by it. Spent tan is more suitable* fur beds 
in forcing-houses, and it is sometimes used 
for frames and in pits. It is liable to gene¬ 
rate very troublesome fungoid growths, but 
if leaves are freely mixed with it. this is less 
likely to happen. Not being given to heat 
violently, especially when used in the open 
air, it requires no preparation; in fact, we 
have frequently found it necessary to mix a 
small quantity of quicklime with it. in order 
to raise the heat quickly. A solid mass 
about 3 feet deep, composed of fresh Ian and 
leaves, answers well for forwarding Carrots, 
Radishes, Potatoes, and other crops in 
frames and pits. 

NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Making an early start with Tomatoes. 

Quite early in the new year attempts are 
often made at raising Tomatoes from seed, 
mid so long as suffit ient heat eau be main¬ 
tained, all is well, but if the young plants 
reoche a • heck, it is labour and lime wasted. 

1 know some grow era who make a practice of 
taking cuttings from their plants in the 
autumn -and Tomatoes strike very free!;* 
from cuttings—keeping them in n warm 
house, and somewhat dry, until well on in 
January, when they are repotted and given a 
light position. MyovftiL4Ucpcrieui hpwever, 
prompts me to sajLthjf^jJi icl iw-Jt^r results 
may He achieved rfnrn plant ^j RHeft from 


seed, ns there is more vitality about them, 
and they continue in bearing longer. In any 
circumstance, it is wise not to commence too 
early ; I have lmd plants raised from seed 
sown in the middle of February do better 
than those raised a month before. - Wood- 
bast wick. 

GARDEN WORK. 

Conservatory.— This house should be 
bright now. as there is still plenty of Chrys¬ 
anthemums coining on, which can be moved 
from the cool-house as required. All plants 
which have ceased to l>c effective and those 
not required for producing cuttings can be 
turned out of the pots in a separate heap, 
away from other rubbish, as the loam still 
retains Mime of its fertility, especially in the 
case of Chrysanthemums where liquid- 
ninnure has been given freely. Cuttings of 
the best kinds of Chrysanthemums should be 
taken now as fast as they can be obtained. 
To secure fine flowers the cuttings must lie 
struck early. This need nut prevent later 
cuttings being taken for small pot work. 
Cuttings of Chrysanthemums will strike very 
well in a frame placed inside a cooL house 
from which the frost in just kept out; choice 
varieties in small, single pots ; others which 
are required in quantity may be rooted in 
shallow boxes, but not in a crowded condi¬ 
tion, and should be potted off as soon as 
rooted. Cuttings may also be rooted in boxes 
just, deep enough for a square of glass to be 
laid over the top of the box in a cool-house. 
In all eases select strong, healthy cuttings, 
even if they have to be waited for. Steady 
fires have been necessary lately, as although 
there lias not been much frost, there lias been 
no sunshine, and the temperature has been 
low. A little warmth in the pipes |»erinit« of 
a. little ventilation being given. The water¬ 
ing should be done, as far as possible, on 
the mornings of fine, bright days, but no 
hard nor fast line can be laid down, as when 
a plant is dry the sooner the soil is moistened 
the better. No plant should be permitted to 
wilt at this season, as the roots require mure 
time to recover from a check of this kind, 
and hard-wooded plants may die from neglect 
in the matter of watering, although, perhaps, 
not at the time. Camellias, Acacias, mid 
other plants in the borders must have enough 
water. 

Hard-wooded plants. If these are to be 
kept in good condition they must not remain 
in a warm conservatory after flowering. It 
is necessary to make the best, show possible, ; 
and for this reason every plant in a present¬ 
able condition must be made the most of. but 
if there is a cool end in the conservatory make 
a group of the hard wooded plants there. 
The ideal house for Heaths now will 1 m? light 
and the atmosphere dry, cool, and freely ven¬ 
tilated. On mild nights air may be UTt on 
all night. Heaths sometimes suffer from 
mildew, if the atmosphere is damp, but a 
dressing of sulphur will remove it. Austra¬ 
lian plants, will bear a little inure fire-heat 
than Heaths, and Acacias will soon be in 
bloom now. or, at least, some of the early- 
flowering varieties will. The watering of | 
haul-wooded plants should lx? in very careful 
hands. When dry. they want a thorough 
soaking, and may then be left fur a day or 
two at this season: but if left to get. dust- 
dry injury will l>e done. Where a collection 
of hard-wooded plants is grown they should 
be placed in one person's care, and he should 
be held responsible for their well-being. 

Ferns and Crasses for cutting. Maiden¬ 
hair Ferns are always in demand for bouquet 
work : tin* varieties of Adiantum are the most 
useful, and. perhaps, the variety named 
eleguns is the best. I cu* some purposes the 
small green fronds of A. capillus-Veneris are 
very useful, and the s|Mcies being quite 
hardy, may be grown with veiv flight pro 
teetion in severe weather. Fern fronds for 
large vases mav be obtained from Phlebodium 
aureum and NephrolepU exaltata. Both of 
these require a little more warmth than is 
usually found in the ordinary greenhouse, but 
j the great thing is to have plants with healthy 
| roots. At this season there is a danger of 
over-watering things in dull weather. A 


small quantity of nitrate of soda in the water 
once a week or so will give the fronds a dark 
green colour, but half an ounce to the gallon 
of w ater should not be exceeded. Everything 
in connection with plant growing in pots 
should be sweet and clean, and to this end 
the surface soil should be stirred occasion¬ 
ally. and all dirty pots washed when they be¬ 
come green. Among the Grasses useful for 
cutting must be named the Eulalias, all uf 
which are useful, though, of course, they are 
most suitable for large vases. For small 
vases C&rcx japouica variegata is very useful. 

Orchard-house. As soon as the huusfc can 
he spared from the Chrysanthemums, have 
it thoroughly cleaned, and bring back the 
trees in pots, fur it will be better not to have 
those trees exposed to very severe frost. 
The pruning and cleaning may lx* done at 
any time now. The object of the primer is 
to fill the tree with bearing wood, anti to 
attain this end it may be necessary to cut 
back an old branch or two. This is some¬ 
times done in summer, after the crop is set 
and swelling. At any rate, all useless wood 
should be removed to encourage the produc¬ 
tion of young bearing wood. The repotting 
or top-dressing will have been done in I lie 
autumn, and the roots have now entered the 
fresh compost. Keep tin* house well venti¬ 
lated, so us not lo hurry the buds. 

The early vinery. The pot-Viues will have 
started now, and the first house of permanent 
Vines, consisting of Hamburgh, Foster’s 
Seedling, with, possibly, one or two rods of 
Mad res field Court, may be closed, ready for 
starting. No tire-heat need be given for a 
few da;»s, beyond what may be required for 
keeping out frost. The border will, no doubt, 
have been suitably top-dressed, and the out¬ 
side border covered with leaves, to husband 
the remainder of the summer's warmth, and, 
possibly, add to it by gentle fermentation. 
Inside borders will have been moistened with 
warm liquid-manure, if dry, and a auitable 
top dressing applied. Vines which have been 
forced in previous years will soon begin to 
move when heat is applied. 

Plants in the house. What a boon the 
electric light is to gardeners who have to 
provide plants for the decoration of stairs 
and corridors. Good-sizecl Palms are indis¬ 
pensable, and. if carefully watered, the lean s 
cleaned occasionally, and the roots cared for, 
will keep in good condition along time. AN" * 11 - 
grown Chrysanthemums wilL l«* useful. 
Among Orchids Cypripediums last well. 

Outdoor garden. Bulbs on the lawn near 
the margins are always bright and interest¬ 
ing, when informally ground. Narcissi, 
Snowdrops, and Crocuses are always beauti¬ 
ful in spring, and there are generally spare 
bulbs when the .season conies l'ouud for trans¬ 
planting. Late-flowering Lilies should la? 
planted soon. Scatter a little sharp sand 
over and under the bulbs, and mulch the 
clumps with a little old hot-bed manure or 
leaf mould. Lilies thrive well among Rhodo¬ 
dendrons. and they associate well together. 
More might be done with Polyantha Roses. 
They make very bright groups round the mar¬ 
gins ol' the lawn, backed up with choice 
shrubs, and to make the most uf them they 
should lie grouped. Some of the newer varie¬ 
ties make very effective groups, and they are 
not expensive. In the arrangement of the 
new herbaceous beds and borders the group¬ 
ing system seems to give the most satisfac¬ 
tion. but this need not prevent a few spiral 
growing things being inserted singly in 
salient spots to give elevation. Delphiniums, 
of which there is now much variety, are use¬ 
ful, while crimson and white Phloxes also are 
effective in such positions. Turn over gravel 
walks and replant Box edgings. 

Fruit garden. If the plantations of straw 
berries have not been mulched, let it be dune 
before severe frost comes rather short stuff 
will be best for the surface roots fu lay hold 
of. Work it round the plants, but not to 
cover the leaves or crowns. Loosen the surface 
a little with the fork before applying the 
mulch. Thip, work is best done when the sur¬ 
face is fairly ary. It U t6d lute to plant Straw - 
perries: 4io\v, as till? frost will lift-up tlr* 
plants, and many of them will die. N* u 
Raspberry plantations may be made now. 



December 21, 1907 


GARDEjYIjYG 1LL USTILU'ED. 


571 


It is a mistake to leave these too long on 
the same land, but in this respect no hard 
nor fast rule should be followed. The plants 
themselves will tell us when a change is 
necessary. Never take the plants from ex¬ 
hausted plantations to make new beds, as 
they are so long before they get established 
and commence bearing freely. The same re¬ 
mark applies to many of the so called per¬ 
manent crops. Gooseberries are often left 
too long on the same ground ; Black Currants 
also should be moved sometimes. The 
proper course is to plaufc young bushes on 
fresh land, and then clear off the old ones. 
There would then be less trouble with in¬ 
sects, mildew, etc. 

Vegetable garden. Wheel on manure in 
frosty weather. Heavy laud may he manured 
now, hut the immuring of light sandy land 
may be delayed till after Christmas! The 
ground for special crops, such as Onions and 
roots, should be worked deeply and left 
rough. Manure liberally for Onions, but tap- 
rooted plants should follow a crop that was 
manured freely, such as Celery. Where 
much Asparagus and Seakale are forced, a 
plot of land should be manured and trenched 
or dug deeply, ready for sowing or planting 
in February. When the crowns of Seakale 
are lifted for forcing, the side roots and tap¬ 
roots, or thongs, are cut off and laid in 
damp sand or sandy soil, and covered with a 
little light litter. During the winter, small 
crowns will form round the cut surface, 
which can be reduced to one when planting 
takes place in February or March. Those 
roots, or thongs, when planted in good soil 
in rows, 15 inches apart, and 12 inches apart 
in the rows, will make good forcing crowns 
in one season, better and stronger than can 
be obtained from seeds. I should never sow 
Seakale seeds when there is plenty of roots 
for propagating. E. Hobday. 

THE COMING WEEKS WORK. 

Extract$ from a Garden Diary. 

December 2Jrd.— Large clumps of Christ¬ 
mas Roses, covered with handlights, are 
floweriug well outside. We have also several 
large plants doing well in tubs in a eold- 
house. The best varieties with us are angus- 
tifolius and major. Put in several, boxes of 
cuttings of Princess of Wales Violets. They 
will he well rooted by end of March. Side 
shouts make good cuttings. Dug over shrub¬ 
beries. to bury the fallen leaves, but not deep 
enough to injure the roots. 

December JJfth - Re a rr an ged con sc rv at ory, 
and brought some flowering plants from other 
houses, to make the house as fresh and bright 
as possible. Some church decoration has to 
bo done. Fortunately, we have plenty of 
Chrysanthemums and fine-foliaged plants or 
all kinds, and a few good Palms and 
Dracaenas in tubs for the chancel. Primula 
obconica grandiflora comes in useful now, 
with Christmas Roses and large white Cycla¬ 
mens in 32 pots. 

December 20th. — Dug a trench round 
several large conifers, to prepare them for 
moving next season. Some good soil is 
worked in round the roots to induce fibres 
to start- away into it. Wo have moved 
several large trees and shrubs in this way 
without loss in previous years. We can move 
trees with balls from 10 ewt. to 15 cwt. on a 
large piece of sheet-iron, strengthened with 
bars of iron, with attachment for horse to 
pull along the ground. 

December Eth .—Transplanting shrubs and 
trees. Soil is made firm about the roots, and 
the trees are secured from disturbance by 
wind. All trees too tall for stakes are 
secured by three stumps driven into the 
ground, to which stay wires are attached. 
Precautions are taken against, injuring the 
stem of the tree by tying sacking round the 
stein, with three bits of wood outside to take 
the pressure off the wire. 

December ?Sth. —Dressed Gooseberry and 
Currant bushes with lime and soot, to keep 
birds from the buds. All fruit-trees are 
flprnved with a strong insecticide as fast as 
the pruning is finished./'TS^me young frees 
growing freely have betli up (aid re¬ 
planted with roots propeny^pread ^ 


ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 

December 10th, 1907. 

Upon this occasion the Orchid exhibits were 
numerous, and, in some instances—notably 
that from Bourtou-on-the-Water—a unique 
lot of hybrid and cross-bred Cypripediuuis 
was shown. The exhibits before the floral 
committee were both numerous unci good. A 
silver-gilt flora medal was given to a set of 
water-colour drawings of Indian and African 
plants —denizens of jungle and veldt—from 
Mrs. Lugard, Battersea Park. In most in¬ 
stances, the drawings were excellent, Orchids, 
bulbous plants, Heaths, and the like receiving 
attention. Of very considerable importance 
and noteworthy b\ reason of the excellent ar¬ 
rangement of the plants, was the group of 
winter flowering Begonias from the Messrs. 
Jas. Veitch and Hons, Ltd., Chelsea. Lueulia 
gratissima in small plants, less than 2 feet 
high, was in splendid condition. A group of 
these, a score or more in number, each with 
one or more of the large pink-flowered trusses 
of bloom, emitted a most grateful and wel¬ 
come perfume. We cannot too strongly re¬ 
commend this plant to these who prefer 
choice flowering shrubs for the greenhouse. 
A large group of Mahuaison and winter- 
flowering Carnations came from Mr. C. F. 
Raphael. Shell lev, Berks (gardener, Mr. 
Grubb). The former, whilst perfectly healthy, 
were hut sparsely flowered. Some other kinds, 
as the well-known Enchantress and Britan¬ 
nia, were in excellent condition. The Carna¬ 
tions from the Messrs. Hugh Low and Co., 
Enfield, were in every way good, the flowers 
well grown, and rich in colour. A prominent 
feature was made of the new kinds, and we 
noted Winsor, Beacon. Britannia, and others 
in fine condition. The new rose-pink En¬ 
chantress we have never before seen so good, 
and it must become one of the most popular. 
Messrs. If. B. May and Sons, Edmonton, 
brought Begonia Mrs. Iieopokl do Rothschild, 
with Euphorbia jacquiiiueflora and E. (Poin- 
settia) pulcherrima in excellent condition. 
A small group of Carnations was staged by 
Mr. II. J. King (gardener, Mr. Weston). The 
Zonal Pelargoniums from the Messrs. Canncll 
and Sons, Swauley, are ever a brilliant fea¬ 
ture of these mid-winter meetings. Messrs. 
William Bull and Sons, Chelsea, had an 
interesting lot of stove plants, many of 
which, in small grown examples, are suited 
to table and other decorations. Messrs. Win. 
Cutbush and Sons, Highgate. displayed an 
admirable lot of the Otaheite Orange (Citrus 
sinensis), the bushes, each from 2 feet to 
3 feet high, being excellent for the festive 
season so near at hand. From Messrs. George 
Paul and Son, Old Nurseries, Clieshunt, 
came a fine group of plants in flower of Mon 
tanoa bipinuatifida. The plants were from 

2 feet to 4£- feet high, each bearing a lax 
pyramid of pure white Dahlia like flowers 

3 inches or so in diameter. If the plant can 
with certainty be flowered at this season, it 
will be valuable in the larger conservatories. 

A fine group from F. D. Godnian, Esq., 
Horsham, included Calanthes in great variety, 
together with Cvpripediuui insigne vara, and 
C. Leeaniuu in variety. Vanda euerulea was 
also noteworthy. Mr. J. Cypher, Chelten¬ 
ham, had a very tine lot of Cvpripediuui in- 
signe vars; also C. Lecamim, C. Fairrie- 
anum, C. Sandcrie, etc., etc. Dendrobium 
Stattoriauum, with rich purple blossoms, is 
very fine ; and so, too, were some handsome 
plants of Odontoglos.suui Peseatorei. Messrs. 
Hugh Low and Co., Enfield, had many choice 
things, in which Odontoglossum crispum 
Lindeni, a richlv-hlotclied kind, Ladio-Catt- 
leya coronis, with rich orange flowers and red 
lip, and Odontoglossum Wilckeanum were 
very fine. M. Maurice Merlons, Mont St. 
Cunuiid. Ghent, Belgium, had a few choice 
Odontoglots. O. amahile in two fine forms, 
O. |iercultuui. a shapely flower, richly 
blotched violet, and a grand arching raceme 
of O. Wilckeanum, richly barred with ehocu- 
late. Mr. H. W. Perry. Upper Norwood, 
had a few Lycastes, Cvpripsdiums, etc. 
Messrs. Heath and Sons, Cheltenham, had a 
small exhibit of choice Cypripediums of the 
insigne and Leeanum types chiefly. Messrs. 
Charles worth and Co.. Heaton, Bradford, 
had a choice lot of things, Platycliuis Cob- 
biana, Lycaste Skinneri alba, and Tri- 


chopilia suavis being remarkable. The 
Orchid group exhibited by G. F. Moore, 
Esq., Bourton-on-the-Water, Glos., occupied 
the end of the hall, and was certainly one of 
the finest exhibits yet seen of these flowers. 
Cypripediums were in great force and endless 
variety, many grand examples of C. insigne 
Sanderte occupying a central place, Dvn- 
drobium Phakeiiopsis, Oncidimn macian- 
thum, O. varicosuni, and others being noted. 
A gold medal was awarded. 

George Massey and Sons, Spalding, had a 
complete table of Potatoes, some seven dozen 
varieties being staged. Of earliest kinds 
Midlothian Early, a. yelIuw fleshed kind, is 
important, with leader as a white-fleshed 
early for succession ; Early Rose. Daliucny 
Rod, Snowdrop, and many other kinds were 
shown. Small examples of the Fir Apple 
Potato were shown in red. white, pink, and 
black-skinned kinds. Viscount Enfield, 
Wroth a ni Park, Barnet (gardener, Mr. 11. 
Markham), had a beautiful lot of Apples, as 
Pcasgood’s Nonsuch, Annie Elizabeth, 
Cellini, The C^ueen, Allington Pippin, and 
many more. Grapes, as Applcv Towers, 
Alicante, and Muscat of Alexandria were 
also shown. From the Earl of Harrington. 
Elvaston Castle, Derby (gardener, Mr. J. H. 
Goodacre), came five so-called types of Mus¬ 
cat of Alexandria Grapes. So far as wo 
could see, the differences of berry were very 
small, the colour of berry and sliane of the 
bunches being more pronounced. Ores Col¬ 
umn was finely shown. Five handsome fruits 
of Pine-apple Charlotte Rothschild came from 
Lord Llangattock. The Hendre, Monmouth 
(gardener. Mr. Thos. Coomher). Tomato 
Lye’s Early Gem was shown by Sir Wcolumn 
Pearson, Burt., M.D. (gardener, Mr. A. B. 
Waddrt). It is certainly a free setting kind, 
with richly-coloured fruits. 

A complete list of awards will In.' found in 
our advertising columns. 


BOOKS. 

“GARDENING IN TOWN AND 
SUBURB."* 

The scope of this book is explained by the 
title. It is a sound and practical handbook 
for people whose opportunities are neces¬ 
sarily somewhat limited. The interest in 
gardening is shared by every class at the pre¬ 
sent day. and all that is needed is guidance 
to prevent mistakes and wasted effort. From 
that point of view, we think this book well 
justifies its existence. After considering the 
possibilities and limitations of his case, the 
suburban gardener is next confronted by the 
questions of aspect and shelter. Of shelter 
he will, probably, have no lack, but. the ques¬ 
tion of aspect demands some thought: — 

“ Having taken the simple precaution to determine the 
points of the compass from your garden, so arrange the 
design :is to give the most, important plants— i.r., Roses 
and herbaceous perennials—the best position, which I 
consider to be that open to the south-west." 

Other words of advice may bo summarised 
as follows:- A small garden should be de¬ 
signed to make it appear larger than it really 
is. Straight walks and borders arc best. 
Curves are out of place in a small garden, 
but walks and beds may well follow the out¬ 
line of the boundaries. Chapters 111..and IV. 
deal with the* preparation of the borders, 
digging, trenching, manuring, and planting. 
In arranging the plants in the mixed border, 
put. iu masses or groups of the same plant, 
instead of dotting them about here and there. 
The author supplies a list of the l**st plants 
for the mixed border. Chapter V. deals 
with Rosea, their choice, culture, prun¬ 
ing, and so on, to which is added a list of the 
best Roses for town and suburban gardens, 
with a description of each. Carnations and 
Pinks form the subject of the next chapter, 
and Lilies and Imlhs the two following, with 
lists. Annual flowers and climbing plants 
arc similarly dealt with iu succeeding chap¬ 
ters, and chapters oil shrubs and fruit-trees 
end the outdoor portion, the remaining chap¬ 
ters of the book being devoted to plants in 
rooms, roof and greenhouse gardening, the 
whole concluding with “Pages from a Gar¬ 
dener’s Notebook.!! | There are borne useful 
illustrations and a good index. _ 

* “Gardening in Town and Suburb." H. H. Thomas, 
Longmans, Green, & Co. 



673 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


December SI, 1907 


CORRESPONDENCE. 


Questions.— Queries and answers are. inserted in 
Gardening free of charge if correspondents follow these 
rules: All communications should be clearly and concisely 
written on one side of the payer only, and addressed to 
the Editor of Oaroksixo, 17, Fumicat-street , Holborn, 
London. E.C. Letters on business should be sent to the 
1‘cbi.isiier. The name and address of the sender are 
required in addition to any designation he may desire to 
be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, 
each should be on a separate piece of paper, and not more 
than three queries shouhl be. sent at a time. Correspon¬ 
dents should bear in mind that, as Gardening has to be 
sent to press some time in advance of date, queries cannot 
always be replied to in the issue immediately following 
the receipt of their communication. We do not reply to 
queries by post. 

Na mi ng fruit.— Readers who desire our help in 
flawing fruit should bear in mind that several specimens 
in different stages of colour and size of the same kind 
greatly assist in its determination. We have received from 
several correspondents single specimens of fruits for 
naming, these in many cases being unripe and other¬ 
wise poor. The differences between varieties of fruits are 
in many cases so trifling that it is necessary that three 
t/>ccimens of each kitui should be sent.. We. ca n undertake 
to name only four varieties at a time, and these only when 
the above directions are obscrced. 

PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

Creepers for cool greenhouse (<4.).—You may 

have a good selection of creepers in a greeiihouHe 
that faces south and has artificial heat enough to 


keep frost out. For instance, Clematis indivisa, Lapa- 
geria (red and white), l'assiflora in variety. Plum* 
hugo capensia, Solatium jasminoides, Tacsonia Van 
Yolxemi, and Ro»ee, such as Marshal Kiel, that re¬ 
quire the protection of a glass-roof to flower them. 

A neglected garden U- V. L.).—To get a 
neglected garden clean set. about the work at once. 

It urn the large, coarse weeds, and scatter burnt refuse 
on the ground. Any smaller weeds dig in—that is, 
trench or double dig. placing the weeds in the bottom 
«>f trench. If land is poor, keep the best soil at the 
top, placing the weeds under the second spit. Turn 
up the soil us roughly as possible; this will get pulver¬ 
ised and in good condition by planting-time. 

Chrysanthemum flowers deformed Of. «•)•— 
The most general reason for the evil complained of 
in Chrysanthemum flowers is that at some time or 
other during the growth of the plants, after the buds 
had set, they were allowed to suffer from want of 
water at the root. If this happens, the mischief is 
not apparent at the time, but the result is seen in 
the production of many deformed flowers. If the 
luids have been injured by frost, that, too, will cause 
deformity. 

Storing Dahlias <•/. V. L.I.-The tubers on the 
Dahlia-root* should nut have been taken oil singly, 
but allowed to remain together ill a cluster, they 
should have been slightly dried, and then stored 
away in a cool, dry position, safe from frost, packing 
the tubers in sami or line, dry earth, ft is doubtful 
if the detached tubers that were washed, and are 
now stored in straw, will be of any value next 
season. A worse plan of treating them could not pos¬ 
sibly have been tried. 

Lily of the Valley (V. V. S'.).—The best plan will 
In; to well top-dress the beds now with some half- 
decayed stable-manure. This will be washed down 
tu the roots by the winter's rain, and will greatly 
benefit the plants. Soaking* of liquid-manure in the 
spring will also be beneficial. Next year, as soon us 
ihc foliage lias died down in the autumn, the best 
plan will be to lift all the roots replanting the 
>tlongest and best of the crowns in some good, well- 
tilled, and manured land. 

Gardenias losing their leaves UR. H .). The 

cause of your Gardenias losing their leaves is not 
through a high temperature, as that is necessary. 
There are other causes, probably too much moisture 
at the roots, as at this time water should bo spar¬ 
ingly given, growth not beiug vigorous and the air 
\-i v damp. Too much food or manure would make 
Hi,'leaves fall, and possibly your plants limy by in- 
b -t.-d by insects, which soon destroy healthy foliage. 
Without seeing the leaves it is difficult to suggest a 
remedy. 

SeedlinK Gloxinias (.1- f. I.X Kra’I' . *!***■ 
ling Gloxinias in a temperature of -<o degs. to »*> <«< Ks- 

i. Ivp | ( ..ss water now, and finally dry them oil. Give 
more when the tops sue gone, and place them out 
„f reach of drip. Start the bulbs m the spring Hi a 
warm plm-e, ami turn them out of pots when the 

ii. -w growth is a few inches high. Repot into larger 

removing old, loo.-e soil, and feed when full of 
[gut;, or repot for larger plants. Always have then, 
near the light, and wuter sparingly for a time after 
repotting. 14 . 

Window Pelargoniums (L- II .) -It would be 
very unwise to disturb these tclargomums at the 
root now. or to cut them back Instead of doing so, 
just give enough water to keep the shoots from 
ihrividline until the first week in March, when they 
may be cut back a little into shape, and, alter new 
"rowth has commenced, thou repot them m good 
tonmv soil, and any very straggling roots can he 
reduced a little Thcv should stand ill h w.um, 
-unny position in the window and should »;;< receive 
much water until the roots have taken well hold of 
the new soil. 

Cinerarias (G. ffoicordh-You can repot the 
< in. rarias now. Tills, however, would have been far 
la tl. r done during October, so that they could be 
established before the winter set In. Repotted so 
l .te they will wjrrrt>careful treatment n* regards 

K* put°the 

..|.,nt< into a warfn-house, asy^is will engender 
ides Keep them close forV-week or ten days 
. ro..oMi,irt nml then ernw them Ollite COOK 


allowing plenty of room between each plant. It is 
quite impossible to assign any reason for the failure 
of the Carrots, without some further particulars 
as to the nature of the soil, etc. 

Ficus elastica (N. B .).~You must wait until the 
spring before you attempt propagating Ficus elastic a, 
unless you have a strong bottom-heat, when the 
operation may be successfully performed at any time. 
Young side shoots, taken oil with a heel of the old 
wood, potted in sandy soil, and plunged in brisk 
bottom-heat will soon strike root and quickly make 
good plants, or the stems of the old wood may be 
cut up into single eyes with a leaf attached, and 
buried in Cocoa-nut-fibre in boxes, after the manner 
that Vine-eyes are propagated. For amateurs who 
only require a few plants, side shoots are the best. 

Aspidistras failing (Southcnd).-You tell us 
nothing as to the size of the pots, or when the plants 
were repotted, both of which would have helped us 
considerably in suggesting a cause fur the failure. 
You have either allowed the plants to get very dry 
at the roots, have overwatered them, or allowed the 
water to stand in the saucers in which the pots arc. 
If you turn a plant out, you will probably find that 
the drainage is choked and that the soil is sour. 
If so, clear the drainage and leave the repotting till 
next April, unless you can give the plants some 
heat, in which case repotting may be done at once. 

The evergreen Laburnum failing (V. 11.).— 
The plant referred to as the evergreen Laburnum w, 
doubtless. Cytisus racemosus. The fact of the plant 
in question having been recently fresh potted, and 
then heavily watered, is quite sufficient to account 
for its failure to thrive. The .soil should only be 
kept moderately moist until the roots have taken 
good hold of it, and it should not have been repotted 
at all at this season of the year. The oiily thing to 
do now is to keep it in a cool place ill the 
greeiihouso, and, as before said, only give enough 
water to keep the soil moderately moist. It may 
then recover. 

Early Chrysanthemums (E. IIigginson).— You 
sav nothing as to how many varieties you want, li 
you will refer to our issue of November 23rd, p. ol7, 
yon will find a reply to "X. Y. Z., Cheshire, in 
which six kinds are mentioned, which will yield a 
good succession of bloom. Your best plan will be to 
purchase plants in small pots, say, m March next, 
shifting them on if well rooted, and growing for a 
time in frames. After hardening them oir. plant out 
early in May. Cuttings, if you prefer such, are very 
easily rooted in the greenhouse in* March. Bee reply 


ing, using water in which soft soap is well mixed. 
After doiug so, make up a solution of soft soap, 1.Ik, 
elav 1 lb., and paraffin 4 pint. Mix these well, then 
add 2 quarts of water, and with it well paint over 
every branch of the tree except the fruit-buds. Also 
make up a mixture of hot lime-white, with some clay 
in it to tone it down, and then well wash the wall, 
so that any eggs or insects are covered in. After the 
tree is renalled remove the top soil .i -inches P 
several fed round the tree, ami replace with Irish 
and a tup-dressing or tnulch of long manure. 

VEGETABLES. 

Clay soil (T. ¥.).—Your garden, being on heavy 
elav soil, requires a lighter one mixed with it to 
assist drainage. Coal-ashes used to excess are most 
injurious to plant life. Road scrapings are lar 
better than coal-ashes. Any burnt garden refuse rs 
valuable, also mortar rubble from old buildings. 
Clav soils are often wanting in lime, and tins may 
be used. Bucli aid* as leaf-mould or partially decayed 
leaves mixed with stable-manure will do good; 

Fowls’ manure, value of {Soulhend ).-The run 
shouhl be covered with sand or ashes, from off wlii« » 
the manure should be raked every day or so. As col¬ 
lected, it should be smothered with soot, placed in a 
heap, and mixed with an equal quantity of soil, 
allowing it to remain so for a month, then turning in 
and giving it another dressing of soot, still allowing 
it to remain and sweeten before you apply it to the 
ground. If allowed to remain for three or four months 
so much the better. Spread it then thinly over the 
ground, and dig it in. Another plan js to place it in 
a bag and hang in a tub or tank filled with water, 
afterwards diluting the liquid and applying it to any 
crops that may require it. You can also use it for t< p- 
dressing Tomatoes or Vines in pots, or it may be used 
in the open at the rate of a peek per - square yards, 
sprinkling it on the surface and hoemg it in. 


easily rooi-ea in wie kicchuuwi — • — - . - 

to “Voltaire," re " Propagating early Chrysanthe¬ 
mums,” at p. 562. 

Greenhouse plants (¥. M .).—The most suitable 
temperature in a greenhouse for such a mixed collec¬ 
tion of plants as the one in question would be one of 
from 45 dess, to 55 degs., keeping tile Pelargoniums 
and Fiu-lisias tit the coolest end of the house nttd the 
atmosphere dry. Probably, the easiest-grown am 
best plant* to till the house with would lio Zonal 
Pelargoniums, Fuchsias, Cinerarias, and the Ever¬ 
green Laburnum (Cytisus racemosus). Dunne the 
summer, when the occupant* just named would be 
better out in the open air. Tomatoes might be grown 
in it. and in the early autumn a few Chrysanthe¬ 
mums would make a nice show therein. 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 

Evergreen Creepers for north wall (L.).-Thc 
Ivies are the most suitable, being rapid growers, lhe 
Coton casters are very free-growing and beautiful in 
winter. Borne of the Evergreen Roses are rapid 
growers. The Pyracantha is also useful for u north 
wall, and is best planted in February. The Ivies may 
be planted now iu good soil with free drainage. 

Pernettyas. increasing (Scale ).—The Fernett.van 
are easily increased by layering the shoots in autumn 
or bv sowing the seeds in spring in sandy peat in « oId- 
frumen or in gentle heat in lK>ts, carefully pricking 
out the seedlings when well above the surface of the 
soil. The RetinoHpora Is easily increased by cuttings 
put into pots in the autumn, and stood in gentle 
heat. 

Deutzia gracilis (¥.). You had better pot, up 
vour Deutzias without any attempt at dividing them, 
simply reducing the strong roots sufficiently to al ow 
of their being potted into medium-sized pots. I my 
will thru be sure to flower well, and may be cut down 
after flowering ami divided before the young growth 
has made much progress. Wo find that they make 
fur the finest plants if planted out in June on good 
rich soil, and lifted and potted up in November. 

Fungi on Beech trees U. II. P V. Your Becrh- 
t.rees are not attacked by a fungus, but by an insect. 
one of the Core idee (Coccus fagi). a distant cousin of 
the common mealy-bug. Wc should recommend scrap¬ 
ing the trees as far as practicable and then washing 
them with the extract of 8 lb. of Quassia-chips, lo lb. 
of sort-soap mixed w-itli 100 gallons of water; or para¬ 
ffin-oil 2 quarts, and 20 lb. of soft-soap, thoroughly 
mixed together with a little hot water, and then 
added to 100 gallons of water. Keep them well mixed. 
Collect and burn the scrapings. 

Bay-trees in tubs (.4. 0 .).-A cold greenhouse is 
the best place in which to store these during the 
winter, but if this is not to be had. then a stable or 
coach-house will keep them safe. When the weather 
is mild they ought to have «omr water as excessive 
drvnos will cause the leaves to drop. Next spring- 
sav. in April-you may cut the straggling giowth* 
back, and when growth is on the move, and if the 
tubs are well filled with roots, you may give weak 
doses of liquid-manure, or apply a J^p-dresemg of 
rotten manure and water freely so as to wash the 
goodness of the same dow n to the roots. 

FRUIT. 

Mealy-bug on Plum-tree (L.).—To cleanse your 
Victoria*Plum-tree of such pests as mealy-bug, fdr 
there is no certainty that hard frosts will, you should 
unnail the tree and draw it away a lit tie t :i 
the wall, then give it all over a thorough 


SHORT REPLIES. 

Voltaire.- See article re “ Shrubs for Dry Bandy 
Soils," in our issue of January 5th, 1907, a copy of 
which can he had from the publisher, post free, for 

lid._W r . v. ,7.—You cannot do better than use the 

caustic alkali solution which we have so often re¬ 
ferred to in these pages*.- Geo. Williams and bon- 

VVe should advise you to grow the sport you refer to 
another year, and submit flowers to either the rlornl 
Committee «t the R.H.8. or that of the National 
Chrysanthemum Society. It is impossible to form any 
opinion from the flowers you send.— Geo. A. War- 
«on._Yee, the chalk would answer, if on the top 
you put rough clinkers. Coal-dust would choke up the 
drainage, and would he of little use. You must have 
on the top of the drain at least from 1 foot to 
18 inches of good soil for the turves to lay hold of. 
We would, however, much prefer the pipes ami 

rubble as we first suggested.-Amateur.-kindly 

make your query plainer. Wc do not quite make 
out what it is you really want.— E. U. V.-Do 
use the cas-liinc on the lawn, as it will destroy the 
Grass. Bee reply to “ J. H.." in our issue of Decern- 
her 7th, re destruction of .Moss in lawn, and ^al o 
replv on this same subject to " Croquet lawn, in 
our issue of December 14tli, p. 558 a 

cony of the character you have, and send it to anj- 
„Z who may require it. Retain the original m jour 

own hands.- Co. Clare Subscriber .—Judging from 

the small pieces or hark you send w, we should say 

that the trees are very much cankered, and there art 

also 1 1 aces of American blight. 'Ve * 

see a larger piece of the wood. Move the Holly next 

spring, but we fear you will find it wH 

years to become established, u* the plants will lift 

hadiv_C. L. Dictionary of Gardening. ’Ll P 

colt Gill. London and County Printing.Works. Drury ; 

lane. \\ C.. or Johnson » " Gardener s Datronarj. 

George Bell and Sons, Porn gal-street. « A, >'« 

nriee of the latter is. we tluiiK. 16 . M.- 

coll. We do not think you will find anytlnii^ *n 
equal the Clematis Mild some of tin* Rambler Roses, 
such as Lady Gay or Dorothy l'erkins. 


names of plants and fruits. 

Names ot plants IT. tjhrul'hy 

Trefoil iTlelcil trifoliulu).- -.4. F. 0 Om 'On* 

Cl^i^tv* L^rtfihRy^.liuul.Oun.^ruft’API'lL^nn^l’o’^ 

Far better get. some nice young trees on the natural 
stock. Take out some of the natural soil and add 
some good loam in its stead, and encourage by mulch- 
imr to get the roots to the surface .—‘ . 
Pear-i 1. BeurrU d'Aremberg ; 2. Beurre Diel; J, Pussy 
Colmar; 4, Probably Bishop's Thumb. 

Pntaloaues received.—Clias. Toope and Son. 

Stepney-square. Btepney-green.-/ffuAfra7ed Cataiopu^ 

of Heating Apparatus.-- M. M. v ’ , ™J ri . n 

p.. r ;q_ riot ot Tree and Shrub Seedi. List or 

r.r.eil iou« Plants, ,1 r. Srrd..-^ 

Son Ltd.. York. --List of bruit tree* List of trees 
mid Shrub* and Coniferw. J. M. 1 horhurni and !<»-. 
K u York 1'S.A. I’rice List of Amrncnn Seeds 
Haag.* and Schmidt. Erfurt Trade Seed Caf 

1907A'30t>. -Button and Bonn, Readmg- 1 «geta_ 

and Flower Seed List for 1903. W . Bull and Son^. 
rhrKea London, S.W.— Catalogue of Seeds for 1903 
——Jas.'Veitch and Sons, Ltd.. CheUea.-Cataloyue of 
Seeds for 1008. * _ 

Torks’ manure.-The Sjlicate Company, Limited, 
write us to say that a mistake re this manure has 
occurred in our iasue of November 30th, p. 532. and 
tSrtVy bi.vq-'mniiriactutcd ,t lor,a good mny 
-.arscoffipouMM jccordiDglo The 'recipe. 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


No. 1,503. — VOL. XXIX. Fovtided by IF. Robinson, Author of “The Fnglutk Flower Garden." DECEMBER 28, 1907. 


INDEX. 


Apple Mabbot's Pear- 

mam .575 

Asparagus-lied, an old 5S6 
Beans. French, early 

forced.583 

Begonia Corbeille de 

Feu .578 

Birds .585 

Books .585 

Border, herbaceous, 
planting a .. 58»« 

Calcium carbide residue 588 
Canuition-lieds, wirc- 

worm in.588 

Celery, decayed .. .. 588 

Centrum elegans .. 588 
Cherry, a tine wild 
(Gcan)(Prunus Avium) 574 
Chrysanthemum Ca¬ 
price de Prinlemps .. 580 


Chrysanthemum cut¬ 
tings .586 

Chrysanthemum Lillie 580 
Chrysanthemum Rab- 
bie Burns, early .. 588 
Chrysanthemums .. 579 
Chrysanthemums, Aue- 
nione-flowcred, at the 
Crystal Palace.. .. 580 

Chrysanthemums, early- 
flowcririg, of a dark 

colour.588 

Chrysanthemums for 
grouping .. .. 579 

Chrysanthemums—late- 
ttowering varieties .. 5S0 

Chrysanthemums, mar¬ 
ket .579 

Chrysanthemums, 
pretty groups of .. 580 


Cinerarias failing 

586 

Coleus in winter, keep- 


in B . 

586 

Conservatory 

584 

Ferns 

5S 2 

Ferns, creeping .. 

582 

Ferns, s.asonahle notes 


on. 

582 

Figs in pots 

584 

Fruit . 

57 o 

Fruit garden 

584 

Garden diary, extracts 


from a. 

584 

Garden, Fellside, a 

581 

Gardenias in bad con- 


dition. 

586 

Gloriosaa, treatment 


of. 

5.86 

Gooseberries as cor- 


dons . 

576 


Garden work .. 584 

Holly hedge, (strength¬ 
ening a.588 

Hot bed. making a .. 588 
House, forcing .. .. 584 

Indoor plants .. .. 578 

Law and custom .. 585 
Lilium longidorum, pot¬ 
ting .588 

Lily of the Valley and 
bulbs, forcing .. .. 584 

Market garden notes .. 575 
Mistletoe, about .. 573 
Myrtle-leaves dirty .. 586 
tXlontoglossum crispum 
and Oncidiuni vari- 

cosum..582 

Onions .583 

Orchids..582 

Outdoor garden .. .. 584 


Outdoor plants .. .. 581 

Peach-trees, old . .. 578 

Pear Beurrd d'Arcm- 
berg ... .. 575 

Pear-leaves injured .. 588 
PearPitniaston Duchess 576 
Pears, cordon, on wall 578 

I Pergolas. X.581 

Piootefe it. Carnation .. 581 

Pines .584 

Plants and flowers .. 577 
Plants in the house .. .584 
Plants, watering .. 578 
Plants, wintering, and 
plants for decora¬ 
tion .578 

Pond mud, utilisation 

of.585 

Potatoes, seed, propor¬ 
tion of.583 


Plum-tree, scale on 

5 S 6 

Rhubarb, forcing 
Richardia iethiopica din- 

588 

cased . 

573 

Roses . 

577 

Roses in vinery .. 

Roses to grow as st and- 

577 

ards, some good 

577 

Seakale . 

58 J 


Service, True, and Wild 
Sen ice-trees, the .. 574 

Shrubs, berried .. .. 573 

Spineas for forcing .. 588 

Trees and shrubs .. 573 

TreeBand shrubs, timely 
thinning of .. .. 573 

Vegetable garden .. 58-1 

Vegetables .. .. 583 

Week's work, the com¬ 
ing .534 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 

ABOUT MISTLETOE. 

Just at this season the olive-green twigs and 
pearly berries of the Mistletoe are thrust 
upon our attention, so it often follows that 
many attempts are made to propagate it just 
now. This is wrong, however, for the berries 
or seeds are now unripe, and the weather is 
too cold for them to germinate, even if they 
were ripe. 

The ordinary notion as to the propagation 
of Mistletoe bv means of seed or berries is 
to slit or pierce the young bark of the host 
plant or tree, and then push the berries into 
the slit. Now, in all good gardening opera¬ 
tions there are three or four things at least 
necessary to success—viz., to do the right 
thing at the right time, and in the best man¬ 
ner, in the proper place, or under the most 
suitable conditions. But most people do not 
quite bear this axiom in mind, and they often | 
fail to get Mistletoe berries to grow. Having 
had considerable practical experience in this 
matter, and having often failed. I think that 
at last I have found out how Mistletoe maybe 
grown from seed as easily as Peas or Beans, 
and the information may be of interest to 
those who would fain have it growing in their 
gardens. The best practice is not to cut or 
slit the bark at all for the due reception of 
the seeds or berries, but to press or rub them 
on to a smooth, young, healthy branch of 
Apple or Hawthorn with the fingers. The 
berry is a little slippery at first, but as the 
viscid pulp dries you will find the seed firmly 
glued or gummed down to the clean hark. 
Two or three berries thus stuck on may be 
covered with a bit of black muslin or crape 
to secure the seeds from the birds, which 
sometimes peck them off the branches unless 
protected in this way. If the bark be slit or 
cut-, its cut edges at once turn brown, and 
harden into corky layers of tissue inimical to 
the growth of the seeds. The right- time to 
thus affix the seeds to the bark of the host 
plant is in April or May, tie cause at that time 
the berries arc ripe and the seeds inside fully 
developed, and, probably, their growing 
joints or radicles will be seen protruding 
ike little green pin’s heads amongst the 
sticky pulp. . 

Where missel thrushes abound it may be 
necessary to net or otherwise protect the 
seed-bearing Mistletoe, or they will, probably, 
steal every Iwrry during the hard frosty 
weather, so that there will be none left to 
sow. The proper method having been above 
described, the best place and conditions are 
to fix the berry on the underside of the fresh 
and healthy branches of Apple, Crab, Haw¬ 
thorn. Oak, Pavia, or Poplar, as the case 
may be and opportunity occurs. A young 
Apple tree of strong growth, like Blenheim 
Orange Pippin, suits Mistletoe perfectly. 
So does a young and healthy Hawthorn or 
Pavia rubra. Mistletoe is rare upon the Oak 
in England, but can easily be established on 
the young free bark of healthy trees. I have 

Digitized by '^lC 


seen Mistletoe luxuriant on Mountain Ash 
and on the White Beam-tree. 

Now, having rubbed ripe fruits of Mistle¬ 
toe on to a suitable host tree in April or 
May, the seed will gradually appear to 
shrivel away, and seem to vanish altogether ; 
but, unless pecked off or otherwise knocked 
away, it will not really have done so. The 
first, thing that happens is the protrusion of 
the green growing point, or, rather, the 
radicle of the seeds. These curve over and 
fix their thickened ends (which resemble a 
fly’s foot somewhat) into the young bark of 
the tree. In order to support its growth 
the contents of the seed are gradually ab¬ 
sorbed, and, finally, only a mere scrap seems 
to remain where the plump seed originally 
had been. But if you look closely at the bark 
in the following autumn- say, six months 
after sowing, you will observe the bark of the 
Apple branch swollen above and below where 
the seed was placed, and perhaps a green 
point or two of growth may be seen to ap¬ 
pear about the centre of the swelling, and by 
the spring the first twin pair of leaves will 
have developed, and the plant is firmly estab¬ 
lished under the bark of the tree. As above 
treated Mistletoe is slow, perhaps, but its 
growth is as sure as that of a Pea or a Bean, 
and there is no real difficulty in introducing 
it wherever it may be desired. F. 


TIMELY THINNING OF TREES AND 
SHRUBS. 

It often happens that the ideas of planters 
are not grasjxed by their successors ; there¬ 
fore, the trees and shrubs which were in¬ 
tended for nurses only are left too long, and 
much mischief is the result. In laying out 
new gardens, nearly everybody, in striving 
after what is termed immediate effect, plants 
too thickly. This would not signify much if 
thinning commenced early enough ; but gener¬ 
ally this is delayed till the bottom branches 
of the permanent trees and shrubs are seri¬ 
ously injured. A Cedar, it may be, has l>ceti 
planted amongst a bed of common things for 
shelter. The planter's idea was that, the 
common things would be gradually removed, 
until finally the Cedar stood alone, fully ex¬ 
posed on all sides. But this had been ne¬ 
glected, and the bottom branches arc so 
seriously injured ns to destroy the beauty 
and symmetry of the tree for a number of 
years, if not altogether. The same often 
occurs with Hollies and other choice shrubs 
that require the light to shine on them on all 
sides in order that they may grow into per¬ 
fect specimens. How soon after planting 
thinning should begin must depend upon the 
kinds of trees and shrubs planted, and the 
nature of the soil. But, to meet every case, 
a thorough examination should take, place 
every year, preferably at this season, when 
there is usually more leisure than at other 
times, and when planting can be cleanly and 
j expeditiously carried out. The planting of 
I the permanent features of a place should be 
so contrived as to require no re-arrangement, 


and should be worked on apian, to be studied 
nfc leisure any time. Only in this way is 
there a chance of the planter’s ideas being 
carried out. The nurses, or the movable 
material, of the place can be re-arranged as 
often as they encroach upon the slower-grow¬ 
ing trees or shrubs which are to form its 
future character. Sometimes the pruning- 
knife will answer as well as the spade in 
checking redundancy of growth. When a 
Laurel, for instance, is encroaching too much 
upon a plant of better character, if the en¬ 
croaching shoots are cut hard back the re¬ 
moval of the intruder may be delayed for a 
year. Most, men have a horror of seeing bare 
spaces in shrubberies ; but this need not bo 
if the re-arrangement lie judiciously carried 
out. It may happen that, the plants thinned 
out may come in for planting elsewhere ; or, 
iF not, perhaps a market may be found for 
them, as large material, even of common 
things, is often in demand for new gardens. 

BERRIED SHRUBS. 

When the closing days of autumn are npon 
Iks nearly the whole of our hardy shrubs are 
absolutely without blossoms ; but, in some 
cases at least, the berries then at their best, 
form a considerably brighter feature than 
the flowers which preceded them. Of shrubs 
noteworthy in this respect there is a consider¬ 
able choice, but all are not of equal merit, 
and I purpose simply to deal with the very 
best. Prominent among them are : — 

Pernettvas. —These charming evergreen 
shrubs belong to the Heath family, and, like 
most of their relatives, they need a fairly 
moist soil. Its consistency, however, is not 
so important a matter, as Pemettyas, though 
they grow well in peat, may often be found 
flourishing in a loamy soil. The typical Per- 
nettya mucronata, a native'of the extreme 
southern portion of South America, has been 
long known in cultivation. In this the berries 
are of a rather dull crimson hue, but a great 
number of varieties has l>ceii raised whoso 
fruits vary , in colour from white, through 
different shades of pink and lilac, to crimson 
and deep purple. 

Aucubas. —The male and female flowers 
of the Aucuba are borne on different plants, 
so that it is necessary to transfer the pollen 
of the male to the female blooms. Planted, 
in close proximity to each other, nature will 
perform a certain amount of the work, but 
artificial pollination ensures a more regular 
crop. It is by this means that the small 
bushes, thickly studded with berries, which 
are often seen at winter exhibitions, are pro¬ 
duced. 

COTONEASTERS. -Nearly all the member* 
of this genus are remarkably handsome when 
laden with ripe fruits, but in many cases the 
birds quickly strip them. The best of all the 
small busliv forms belonging to the same sec¬ 
tion as the. well-known C. microphylla is 
C. Totundifolia, that forms a freely-branched, 
almost evergreen, hush 4 feet to 5 feet. high. 
The berries of this are of a very bright red, 
and, as a rule, they remain on for a consider- 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 





























074 


GARDEjXIA g ill VST rated. 


Decemueu 28, 1907 


able time. Of the larger tree-like kinds C. 
frigida is the best. Other desirable kinds are 
C. horizontalis, C. micropbvlla, C. pannosa, 
and C. Simonsi. 

Cratjegus. —Many of the Tliorns are re¬ 
markably handsome when in fruit, though 


Beam-tree (Pyrus Aria) and its allies than 
with the True Service, inasmuch os the 
, leaves closely resemble those of the Aria sec- 
The Wild Service (Pyrus torminalis) is j tion. It grows to the height of 40 feet or 


THE TRUE SERVICE AND WILD 
SERVICE TREES. 


a true native, though it occurs sparingly, 
except in a few localities. It is found in 


50 feet, with a large trunk, spreading at the 
top into many branches, and forming a large 


they must be regarded more in the light, of | woods and hedges in the middle and ! head. The young branches are covered with 


trees than shrubs. One species is, even in 
the suburbs of London, remarkably showy at 


south of England, but not in Scotland or in 
Ireland. It generally grows in s 



Fruiting branch of the True Service (Pyrus Sorbus). 


this season. This is the evergreen Fire 
Thorn (Crataegus Pyracantha), a magnificent 
wall shrub, and one that deserves to no more 
often planted as a bush than it is. The iuiii- 
moii Hawthorn is a striking feature when 
laden with berries, while its yellow-fruited 
form attracts by reason of its uncommon ap¬ 
pearance. The larger fruited kinds, such as 
C. Aronia. C. Azarolus, C. Carrieri, C. 
coccinea, C. Crus galli, C. orientalis, and C. 
tanacetifolia, are all handsome. 

Ilex. The berries of our own native Holly 
impart to it a delightful winter feature, and 
especially at the festive season of Christmus 
they appeal to everyone. 

Hippophae rhamnoides. —This, the Sen, 
Buckthorn, so far resembles the Aucuba inas¬ 
much as the male and female flowers arc 
borne on different individuals. The Sea 
Buckthorn is a Willow-like shrub, whose 
berries, closely packed around the shoots for 
some distance, are of a deep orange tint. 
One male planted in the centre of half a- 
dozen females is sufficient to ensure fertili¬ 
sation. 

Skim MIA. The best-known Kkimmia is S. 
Fortunei, which was formerly known as S. 
japonica. It is a little, compact-growing 
evergreen shrub, with bright crimson berries. 
There are now several garden forms of S. 
japonica (true) in which the male and female 
blossoms are quite distinct. 

SYM PHORICARPU8 RACEMOSU8.— This, the 
Snow berry, attracts by reason of its large 
white berries, a colour but little represented 
among the fruits of hardy shrubs. It is not 
at all particular in its requirements, as it will 
bold its own in comparatively poor soils. 
Though a decided tree rather than a shrub, 
the 

Mountain Ash is so handsome when in 
fruit that it must on no account be passed 
over. Though not strictly berries, the fruits 
of 

Euonymijs europ/Kus (Spindle-Tree) 
are particularly striking, especially when the 
orange-coloured seeds may l>e seen by the 
bursting of the capsule. The nearly-allied 
Celastrus artieulntus from Japan has the 
same kind of fruits, borne for a considerable 
distance along its spreading, flexible branches. 

X. 


soils. Miller, in 1752, says that "it was for¬ 
merly very abundant in Cane Wood, near 
Hampstead.” It is, therefore, a more familiar 
tree than the True Service. It is a native of 
various parts of Europe, from Germany to 
the Mediterranean, and of the south of 
Russia, and Western Asia, and seems to 
flourish in colder regions than its congener, 
1\ Sorbus. The tree, it is believed, was 
known to the Greeks, and is the one men¬ 
tioned by Pliny as Sorbus torminalis; though 
this name may possibly have been applied 
by liiin to the True Service (Sorbus donies- 
tica). It is figured by Gerard, who, however, 
sav h very little of the tree. 

Properties and uses. The fruit is 
brought to market both in England and 
Franee ; and, when in a state of incipient 
decay, its taste is somewhat like that of the 
Medlar. As an ornamental tree;, its large 
green buds strongly recommend it in the win¬ 
ter. as its fine large-lobed leaves do in the 
summer, and its large and numerous clusters 
of rich brown fruit do in autumn. 


a purplish bark, marked with white spots, 
trong clayey The leaves, which are on long foot-stalks, 
1 are cut into many acute angles, like those of 
some 6pecics of Maple. They are nearly 
4 inches long, and 3 inches broad in the 
middle, bright, green above, and slightly 
woolly underneath. The flowers are pro¬ 
duced in large bunches at the end of the 
branches ; and they Are succeeded by round¬ 
ish compressed fruit, not unlike common 
Haws, but larger, and of a brown colour 
when ripe. The tree is of slow growth, and 
in this respect, and most others, it resembles 
P. Aria ; but it is less hardy. 

Identification.— The synonymy of this 
species is even more intricate than that of 
P. Sorbus. The Linnean name is Crataegus 
torminalis. Crantz named it Borbus tormi¬ 
nalis, a name still adhered to in the recent 
works of such eminent botanists as Boissier 
and Nyman. Pvrus torminalis was the name 
given by Ehrhart, and this is now generally 
adopted. Thij species was the type of the 
j genus Torininaria, but this is not now 
recognised, all the species originally placed 
in it being now referred to the sub-genus 
Sorbus. Among the other principal synonyms 
under which this species may l>e found in 
gardens, books, and catalogues are Azarolus 
torminalis, Torininaria vulgaris, T. Clusi, 
Mespilus torminalis, Pirenia torminalis, 
Sorbus Tommasini, and S. glaberrima. A 
coloured illustration of it may be found in 
" Sowerbv s English Botany” under the name 
of Pyrus torminalis. 

Pyrus Sorbus (The True Service) is not 
found in abundance in any part of the world. 
There are. perhaps, more trees of it in the 
middle region of France and the Alps of 
Italy than in nIJ other countries put together, 
hut it is also found in the south of Germany, 
in some parts of the north of Africa, and in 
Western Asia. It strictly belongs to the 
region of the Vine, and beyond the northern 
boundary of the Vine region it gradually 
ceases to flourish. The tree is tender when 
young, even in France, and it is exceedingly 
difficult to raise in the gardens there. There 
are hut a few specimens of it in England, and 
these arc chiefly in the neighbourhood of 
London. It is now quite excluded from the 
list of indigenous species. The fruit, when 
lieginning to decay, is edible. In Britain the 
tree is chiefly to be recommended as one cf 
ornament and variety, for though its fruit is, 



A fine wild Cherry U.Vun) f Primus Avium).— 
Km kvsril is a photograph of, I hHieve, a very mmsii- 
4illy-size«t wild ('lu-rry-tree, growing in my grounds 
here. Its spread is just over 88 feet, and the girth 
of the trunk, at 3 feet above the ground, is 12 feet 
inches, and at ft feet. 13 feet 11 inches.—P ercy 
Bicknell. Gurtcen. Sbinrone, Ireland. [Unlortunateiy, 
♦he photo was not clear enough for reproduction.— 
Ed.] 


Soil and situation.— It will grow in a soil i perhaps, not much inferior in taste to that 
not poorer, but more tenacious and moist, 1 of the Medlar, yet it is found to be much 
than wliat is suitable for P. Aria; and it more difficult of digestion. The True Service. 


Digitized by 


Google 


requires a sheltered situation. It seems 
more liable to the attacks of insects than 
that species, and docs not thrive so well in 
the neighbourhood of London. 


as may be seen from our illustration of a 
fruiting branch, closely resembles the Moun¬ 
tain Ash (Pyrus Aucuparia), but attains to a 
larger size, and bears much larger fruit. It 


Description. —This species is more likely j has an ereijt trunk*. which terminates in a 
to be confounded with the common White I large pyramidal heaef. The bark of the tree, 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAI6N 


I)ecemdeb 28, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


575 


in young trees, is smooth and grey, like that 
of the Mountain Ash, the bark in old trees 
being rough, scaly, and full of cracks, in 
colour a dark brown. It is easily recognised 
from the Mountain Ash in winter by its buds, 
which are smooth and green, instead of being 
downy and black ; in the earty summer by its 
leaflets being broader, downy above, and also 
beneath ; and in the autumn by its Pear or 
Apple-shaped fruits, which are each four or 
five times the size of those of the Mountain 
Ash, and of a dull greenish-brown colour. It 
is said to be thirty years before it comes into 
a bearing state from seedlings, but when 
scions from fruit-bearing trees are grafted on 
to seedlings or on to the Mountain Ash they 
come into bearing in a few years. In France 
this Pyrus attains a height of 50 feet or 
00 feet, and lives to so great an age that 
some specimens of it are supposed to l>e up¬ 
wards of one thousand years old. 

FRUIT. 

APPLE MABBOT'S PEARMAIN. 

This is a Kentish Apple, and has long been 
grown in the orchards in that county. Its ori¬ 
gin is shrouded in obscurity, for information 


anee, this Pear is, nevertheless, worthy of 
cultivation, seeing that the fruit comes into 
use late in December, lasting in some 
seasons well into January. It also has the 
merit of being a consistent cropper. It is 
very productive either on the Pear or 
Quince stock, and the fruits remain for some 
time in good condition, without decaying 
after they become ripe. So far I have always 
found wall trees yield the best, results from 
a flavour point of view, but am giving some 
espaliers a trial, a form in which I have not 
hitherto grown it, to see how they answer. 
The largest and most clear-skinned fruits 
are to be obtained from cordons on the 
Quince, while from a bush they are smaller, 
with the surface coated more or less with 
russet. The flesh of this Pear is white, 
very juicy and tender when fully ripe, and 
the flavour excellent. If placed in genial 

! warmth a week or ten days before ripening, 

I the flavour is then greatly improved.— 

I G. P. K. 

MARKET GARDEN NOTES. 
Travelling glass houses.— The glass erec¬ 
tions which are so constructed that they can 
lie moved from one place to another are, ap¬ 
parently, increasing in popularity with those 


bokli, but differs from it in being perfectly 
hardy, so that it may be used for decora¬ 
tion in a way not practicable in the case of 
plants having an element of tenderness in 
them. It is also one of those things that may 
be maintained in good health for several 
years in small pots. Cold draughts, a con- 
tined atmosphere, and fluctuations of tem¬ 
perature do not affect it. In addition to 
these good points, it is just the thing for 
4J-inch and G-inch pots, and has a more 
taking appearance than some things that are 
grown for their foliage alone. Most things 
brought into Covent Garden and other large 
markets may not, if unsold, be allowed to 
stand until the next market day at this time 
of year. I have seen whole vanloads of such 
things taken out of Covent Garden at closing 
time when the trade was dull. This Helle¬ 
bore, being impervious to cold, could remain 
a week or more without suffering—a great 
advantage to those who live some miles from 
the market. It is easily raised from seed, 
which should he sown in September in a 
cold-frame, and will germinate early in 
spring. Sown in spring, the greater portion 
of the seeds will not germinate for twelve 
months. New seed must lie obtained. 

Making Vine borders. —Every Grape- 
grower of experience is aware that the one 



Apple Mabbot’s Pearmain. From a photograph in the gardens at Gunnersbury House, Acton, W. 


as to who raised it, and where, has never'been 
forthcoming. I well remember the late Dr. 
Bull, when preparing for the press the num¬ 
ber of the “ Herefordshire Pomona” in 
which this Apple is figured, writing and 
asking if I could throw any light on the 
matter. Although the doctor left no stone 
unturned, he finally had to abandon his 
quest. Whoever the raiser might have been, 
we have in Mabbot’s Pearmain a handsome, 
shapely fruit, as is so well shown in the an¬ 
nexed illustration. It is rather below 
medium size, but quite large enough for a 
table fruit. A very distinguishing feature of 
this Apple is that the skin is freckled or irre¬ 
gularly dotted with greyish dots, some of 
these markings being plainly discernible on 
the fruits now illustrated. The colour of the 
skin is golden-yellow- when mature, and the 
sunny or exposed side of the fruits is always 
more or less flushed witli red. It is in season 
during the month of December. I find it a 
consistent cropper, and though succeeding as 
a standard, it does not form a large tree. 
Its habit of growth is rather peculiar. The 
branches are somewhat slender, growing out 
ns straight as though trained, and clothed 
throughout their whole length with fruiting 
spurs. _ A. W. 


Pear Bciurre d'Arembterg, 

in size, and not particular^ 


1 di 
ng i 


who are anxious to get as much value as 
possible from their land. These houses arc 
so constructed that they can easily be moved 
from one grow-ing crop to another, and it is 
not only the erection itself, hut also the 
heating apparatus, that can be shifted in an 
easy and inexpensive manner. In this way, 
vegetables, flowers, and fruit can be brought 
along suceessionally in a comparatively cheap 
and easy w-ay. For instance, a crop of Toma¬ 
toes having been taken from a house, it can 
be shifted along to a bed of Cabbages, which 
w-ill come in six weeks earlier than in the 
open air. During the summer, either Toma 
toes or Cucumbers being grown, it can be 
shifted on to cover Chrysanthemums, which 
have been planted out early in June, and 
which open their blooms much better than 
when lifted in late autumn. In fact, fine 
kinds that cannot be grown under the lifting 
system will give blooms of excellent quality. 
Salads, Narcissi, Gladiolus the Bride, French 
Beans, and other things can be used to en¬ 
sure the necessary rotation of crops. Pota¬ 
toes, for instance, could follow- some earlv- 
hlooming kind of Narcissus. Cucumbers or 
Tomatoes could be followed by Chrysanthe¬ 
mums later on. 

Helleborus fostidtts. — I have often won¬ 
dered why a plant having so many claims to 
recognition should be so neglected. It is as 
ornamental as the well-known Aralia Sie- 


great difficulty he has to contend with is 
the pronounced tendency of the Vine to 
thrust its roots down deeply into the soil. 
There is no natural inclination to make sur¬ 
face roots, and that is why the power to bear 
first-class market bunches so often deserts 
Vines after the first decade of their lives. 
It is not only that the inability to carry such 
a heavy weight affects the annual returns, 
but there is also the matter of quality to be 
considered. It is a serious affair for the 
market grow-er when, from half a dozen 
100-feet houses he can no longer meet the 
demand for “specials’’—that is, those hand¬ 
some, broad-shouldered bunches running 
from 2 lb. to 3 lb., that are in special re¬ 
quest on certain occasions. Although prices 
for winter Grapes, unfortunately, run very 
low nowadays, there are times when price is 
no object; but it is only very high-class goods 
that can command the comparatively high 
prices. Naturally, every grower for profit 
endeavours to induce the formation of those 
roots which, being within measurable dis¬ 
tance of the surface, can be supplied with an 
abundance of food during the growing time. 
These roots, so easily fed, and within reach 
of the stimulating ipflme^ce of air and 
warmth, both natural and artificial, are the 
main factors in tin* production of those grand 
bunches which arc distinguished from the 
ordinary market samples by size of berry and 









57G 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


December 2S, 1907 


high finish. Biennial or triennial root lifting 
—not wholly, but bringing up a stray root 
here and there—is frequently practised. Un¬ 
fortunately, in the case of the Muscat, root 
lifting is attended bv a considerable amount 
of danger, and Qros Colman makes such 
strong roots that it is impossible to keep the 
major portion of them out of the subsoil. 
One of our largest market growers, when put¬ 
ting up a large block of houses, had the whole 
of the soil they were to cover excavated 
to a depth of 4 ft. before they were erected. 
The bottom was then paved with ordinary 
plain tiles, the object being, of course, to 
keep the roots within compass and increase 
the formation of fibrous roots. Everyone 
conversant with the nature of the Grape-Vine 
knows that wherever a root touches an ob¬ 
stacle, it ramifies, the active feeders being 
thus materially increased. By paving the 
bottom in this way, two objects were served 
—the roots were prevented from running 
away down into the'cold, damp subsoil, where 
they could not. ho fed, and the formation of 
surface roots increased. The soil that was 
taken out was turned over, thoroughly 
sweetened, the necessary amount of manure 
added, and returned to its old quarters. In 
this way the whole of the land on which the 
block of houses was erected was converted 
into one big Vine-border, every inch of it in 
the best possible condition for the roots to 
work in. J. Corn hill. 

CORDON PEARS ON WALL. 
Whilst in the illustration of cordon Pear- 
trees on a high wall at Powis Castle (October 
126th, page 455) the trees seemed to have made 
good growth, yet it does seem odd and out of 
place to find a border of shrubs immediately 
in front of the wall. What of space behind 
the shrubs may be allotted to the Pear-trees 
is not shown, but the combination of strong- 
growing shrubs with them is difficult to under¬ 
stand. One thing which almost everywhere 
militates against the ]>erfect furnishing of a 
wall with cordon Pears is the uneven nature 
of growth found in diverse varieties. That 
unevenness is clearly seen in !he illustration 
referred to. In planting, it is well to know, 
so far as possible, what is the general growth 
character of each variety as well os of their 
general cropping qualities under cordon cul 
tlire. Whilst a few years' growth suffices to 
show relative growth, several years should Ik* 
allowed to elapse ere any definite information 
be given as to cropping qualities. Still, it is 
evident that each year seems to find some 
varieties cropping better than others, hence 
a careful record of the qualities of each 
variety on a cordon wall over a series of 
years seems to Ik* essential to getting clear 
conclusions. Dwarfer growing, medium, and 
taller varieties might well be grouped to 
gether, thus securing sonic appearance of 
uniformity. Possibly some of the weaker 
growing Pears on walls would do better if 
worked on the Pear slock: some, perhaps, 
better if double worked on the Quince-stock. 
Those who have well established cordon Pear 
walls might furnish very useful information 
oil the points mentioned. A. I>. 


GOOSEBERRIES AS CORDONS. 

I think it would be instructive and useful to many of 
your readers (myself included) if you would kindly 
describe in your paper the way to prow cordon House - 
berries from cuttings?— WAI.TKR DL'NN. 

[All are familiar with the ordinary method 
of growing the Gooseberry— i.e. t as low, 
round-headed, and spreading bushes; but as 
cordons they are much less frequently seen. 
The hush system answers well in many ways, 
and for furnishing berries to gather green is 
all one can wish for. But when it comes to 
the question of the fruit having to hang and 
ripen for the dessert, the balance is in 
favour of cordons, as the loss from spoliation 
of the berries in consequence of their being 
splashed with soil, as is so often the ease 
during a thunderstorm, is then almost nil. 
Unless the soil beneath bush trees is pro 
tec ted with litter, t he loss from the last- 
named cause is often considerable, for fruit 
covered with grit and soil is unfit for table. 
In addition to this, the fact, of sunlight 
having greater uhtT^upon the filiit produced 
by cordons natiralbi Ik ad.- flA I tli^ flavour 
being greatly" ei i an(i HwyPwVys colours 


to perfection. As already hinted, this 
method of growing the Gooseberry is any¬ 
thing but general,, yet it can be recom¬ 
mended as being an economical and highly 
satisfactory system, inasmuch as fine crops 
of fruit and of the very best quality are to 
be obtained thereby, while a given number 
of cordons occupy less space than do the 
same number of bushes. Another advantage 
is that the fruit can l>e the more con¬ 
veniently protected from bird ravages, and 
with less liability of the nets being torn, 
while the fact of the berries being so con¬ 
veniently situated on the tiers is much ap¬ 
preciated by those who prefer to saunter 
into their gardens and gather a few berries 
just whenever they may feel inclined. Fur¬ 
ther, a row of cordon-trained Gooseberries 
on either side of a footpath in the kitchen- 
garden is a decidedly ornamental feature, 
and forms a novelty where this fruit lias 
been hitherto grown in bush form only. 
Where the consumption of the ri|>e Goose¬ 
berries is considerable, it pays to plant a 
good-sized plot with cordons, arranging the 
rows so that they stand 4 feet (5 inches to 
5 feet apart. Needless to say, this effects a 
considerable economy in the way of netting, 
and both entrance ami exit can he arranged 
for the convenience of all those who wish to, 
or whose business it is to, gather the fruit. 

Cordon trees can be purchased having 
single, double, or triple branches, and those 
who are desirous of clothing their trellises 
in the shortest space of time should buy 
them in. The trees may also bo grown from 
cuttings, which should lie taken at once and 
planted with as little delay as possible. For 
this purpose, select, straight, strong shoots, 
18 inches in length, cut them straight across 
under a bud, and tip them so that they are 
all of a uniform length of 1 foot to 15 inches. 
Then denude them of all buds with the ex¬ 
ception of the three nearest to the top, and 
lay them in by the heels if the ground is not 
ready for planting. The cuttings may either 
be planted in a bed, to be lifted and trans¬ 
planted in the course of a year or so, or they 
may be planted in position at once. The 
latter plan has this advantage, that there is 
no lifting and transplanting to be done after¬ 
wards; but the number of trees ami the par¬ 
ticular varieties it is desired to grow in this 
way must be decided upoif beforehand, and 
arrapgemerta made in accordance therewith. 
In either ease the ground should he in good 
heart, otherwise the cuttings will make hut 
poor growth! To this end it must be dressed 
with well rotted manure and thoroughly dug. 
Cuttings in an ordinary way may be dibbled 
in 18 inches apart, allowing the same dis¬ 
tance between the rows. See the cuttings 
touch the bottom of the hole, which should 
be 4 inches to 5 inches deep, and make them 
thoroughly firm. When planted where they 
are to remain, set them 18 inches apart, if 
single cordons arc desired. 3 feet for*doublc- 
hranched trees, and 4 feet (i inches for those 
with three or triple branches. When the 
cuttings begin to grow, those which arc in 
tended to form “triples ’’ must have all three 
growths preserved, the topmost one to form 
the centre branch or stem, and the two 
others to form the side branches right and 
left. These latter should be trained out at 
nearly right angles for a distance of 18 inches 
and then turn their points upwards. For 
double or “U” shaped trees, two growths 
only will Ik; needed, and train these out in 
the same way, but for a distance of 0 inches 
only from the centre on either side of the 
tree, when the resulting branches will 1 h> 
18 inches apart. For single stemmed, train 
up the topmost shoot, and pinch the other 
two to six bulls when they have made about 
1) inches of growth. The following winter 
cut the leading growths hack, the central 
ones to within a foot of where they originate, 
ami the others or side shoots near to where 
they have been turned in an upward direc¬ 
tion. The next year leave 18 inches of 
growth, and continue with this course of 
treatment until the trellis is fully finished, 
or until the trees are sufficiently developed 
to lift and transplant. After this it is ex¬ 
pedient to shorten hack breast-wood or spur- 
growths prior to the ripening of the fruits 
about halfway, finally spurring them to foijri 
buds in the winter. It is a good plan to 
train in a young shoot occasionally after the 


trees have been in bearing a few years, with 
u view to replace one or more of the original 
branches, which will keep them healthy and 
vigorous. To keep the trees vigorous and in 
a free-bearing condition, mulch the surface 
soil about the roots with half-decayed 
manure every year, and when a large area is 
devoted to cordon culture it is a good plan— 
particularly on light soils—to mulch the 
whole of the surface. 

None but the, best and highest-flavoured 
varieties should he cultivated in this way, 
as fruit for gathering in a green state can be 
grown elsewhere. The trellises are more 
durable if the standards are of iron, but oak 
posts will last a long time if the butt ends 
are first charred and then dipped in tar. 
The wires should be 9 inches apart, and the 
lowermost one 1 foot from the ground level. 
The trellises may be from 4 feet 6 inches to 
5 feet in height, and if the wire used is 
galvanised, give it two coats of stone or lead 
colour after being strained and fixed in 
position.] 

OLD PEACH-TREES. 

Mention is made in your issue of November 
9tli of Peach-trees of the age of forty years 
growing at Cricket St. Thomas, and still 
doing well, the variety being Royal George. 
The age to which Peach-trees will attain 
depends on the stock on which they may 
be worked, the soil occupied by the roots, 
and the treatment they are given from year 
to year. Royal George would be one of the 
least to be depended on to make an old tree ; 
its proneness to mildew and oilier ailments is 
proverbial, yet records can. apparently, be 
made even with Peaches having unreliable 
constitutions. Forty years, however, do not 
create a record, for some years ago I saw a 
Nectarine-tree which had l>een planted one 
hundred years, and still bore Fruits. This 
was at. Wilton, near Salisbury. At Gunners- 
bury there is a very fine Neciarine-tve 
which, so far as spread of branch is con¬ 
cerned. has been planted many years. Know¬ 
ing as 1 do Cricket St. Thomas, and the splen¬ 
did growth of Peaches and Nectarines there. 
I am not surprised that Royal George should 
survive so many years in a profitable state. 
Judging from the size and condition of the 
stems. 1 have here some Peach and Nectarine- 
trees that have done service for as many 
years, and now are depended on for their 
annual summer crop. Stanwick Elruge Nec¬ 
tarine and Violet Hative Peach have both 
this year given extra fine fruit the former 
in particular. Unless worked on a good free 
stock, the age of Peach trees does not often 
exceed twenty years ; indeed, many trees do 
not live so long. 

W. Strugxeil. 

Rond Ashton, Trowbridge. 

N0TK8 AND REPLIES . 

Pitmaston Duchess Pear. Though not of 
high quality, tine popularity of this Pear is 
seen in almost every exhibition hall in the 
Chrysanthemum season. 1 recently saw 
some unusually fine specimens, delicate in 
skin colour and handsome in outline. Every¬ 
one admires large fruits, especially when 
they are above normal size, no matter what 
the variety may be. Handsome though Pit- 
in as toil Duchess is, there is no comparison 
between its flavour and that of Doyenne du 
Comice, but, all the same, there is a fullness 
of juice when it is quite ripe. 1 have recol 
lections of single fruits grown in a Wiltshire* 
garden some years ago weighing between 
two and three pounds each, but the tree 
which Imre them does not now produce fruits 
of this giant size. The tree is a very healthy 
and regular hearer, and adapts itself to every 
form of training. Standard trees, when 
established, give heavy crops of fine speci¬ 
men fruits where the soil is found to suit 
them. On cordon trained trees immense 
fruits are to be found sometimes, but a well- 
nourished espalier will give a large yield of 
equally fine Pears.—W. S. 


Index to Volume XXVIII. -The binding covers 
rice Is, GiL_earh, post free. Is. 9d.) and Index b'W., 
Wt free; 8Jd.} Tor Volume XXV III. ure now ie:jdy. 
i.l niav Im- had of nil newsagents, nr of the I ul>- 
■her. |M>st fr f ‘>r the two. 



December 28, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


677 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

ROSES. 

SOME GOOD ROSES TO GROW AS 
STANDARDS. 

The illustration to-day of the Rose Margaret 
Dickson is a reminder of what a splendid 
sort it is to grow' in standard form. If Roses 
of this type had been adhered to instead of 
many unsuitable varieties, standard Roses 
would have been more in favour than they 
are now. The vigour, fine, spreading growths, 
wondrous foliage, and the superb tiesh-white 
blossoms of this Rose are not readily for¬ 
gotten. It is not merely as a standard that 
this Rose is good. Only this last summer I 
saw in a garden in a seaside town bushes 
varying from 6 feet to 8 feet high, a standing 
reproach to all who mutilate such Roses by 
hard pruning. I am convinced we do not 
make so much use of such sorts as Margaret 
Dickson as we might do. 1 would advise 
anyone to just give them a trial. Give them 
a good start, and the first year prune but 
little, retaining to almost full length the 
4 feet to 5 feet shoots which the plants will 
have. Support these with a stout stake, and 
allow the plant to grow in its own way, en¬ 
tirely nnpruned, for a year or two. Subse- 


fashion. Exceptionally good as standards 
are Conrad I' 1 . Meyer, Gruss an Teplitz, 
Mine. Alfred Carriere, Frau Karl Druschki. 
Hugh Dickson, Clio, Duke of Edinburgh, 
Dupuy Jamain, Magna Charta, Paul Neyron, 
Mrs. Paul, Tom Wood, Ulrich Brunner, Rev. 
Alan Cheales, Mine. Clemence Joigneaux, 
and many Teas and Hybrid Teas. 

The charming China Roses should not be 
overlooked, for their almost continual flower¬ 
ing habit makes them particularly pleasing 
at all times, and there is now a wide range 
of colour among them. One sadly misses the 
old Hybrid Chinese Roses of the type of 
Blairii No. 2, Coupe d’Hebe, Juno, Mine. 
Pluntier, Chenedole, and the like. It is true 
theirs was a very short season of beauty, 
but the grandeur of their blossoms, when 
well developed, w'ould eclipse that of many a 
present-day favourite, and for fragrance they 
were unrivalled. One of mv earliest recol¬ 
lections of a Rose is of that very sweet old 
sort, Charles Lawson. Although not now- 
grown very much, it is pleasant to recall such, 
and, doubtless, many readers of Gardening 
will have other favourites brought to their 
minds. Rosa. 

ROSES IN VINERY. 

I AM giving up growing Grapes in the first of a range 
of vineries, ami shall he most grateful if you will tell 
me if you think I should he successful in growing 



Rose Margaret Dickson. 


cjuently a cutting out of one or more of the j 
old growths will lvc all that is necessary to 
keep such plants in good condition, and they 
will yield a surprising number of very fine 
flowers. Margaret Dickson was one of the 
earliest successes of Messrs. Alexander I)iek 
son and Sons, of Newtownards, having been 
introduced in 1891. It received the gold 
medal of the National Rose Society the 
previous year, I believe. 

Coming back to the subject of free-headed 
standard Roses, many readers may be in a 
quandary as to what to select. For their 
guidance, 1 will give a short list, all of which 
make magnificent heads. One of the first to 
name is 

Caroline Tbstout.- T saw one last sum¬ 
mer near the high road of our village that 
had upon it at one time very nearly one 
hundred expanded blossoms. This fine tree 
had had the foundation of such success well 
laid in its infancy, every growth, when 
pruned, being cut to an eye looking outward, 
and this had been strictly adhered to ever 
since. This detail is very essential, even with 
strong growers, if we would obtain well- 
balanced, spreading heads. Another very 
beautiful and fragrant sort is 

Mme. Isaac Pereire, one of the best gar¬ 
den Roses ever raised. It makes a grand 
standard or pillar, ami*is equally tine when 
growing over the iandjfC^n/ lawn 

basket, *rr ils growVLjJlVim ovew llilif moon 


Roses in it? The house is a lean-to, 10 feet high wall 
at back, coming down to 4J feet in front, about 
•j feet only of which front is wall, the rest gla. i s. 
Aspect, south-west. Width of house, 14 feet. There 
is the usual flagged path, with hot-water pipes under, 
leading to the further vineries, and a narrow border 
at the foot of the wall. Between the flagged path 
mid the front of the house there is plenty of room for 
anything. On the wall I purpose growing: Climbing 
Mrs. W. J. Grunt, Climbing Niphetos, Fortune's 
Yellow, Kran^ois Crousse, Marshal Niei, and W. A. 
Richardson. For pot plants I am taking thirteen of 
the eighteen recommended by the National Rose 
Society for pot ami greenhouse culture, and probably 
u few’ others from their supplementary list. Could 
I make a bed from tlie path to front and plant 
standards and half-standards in it, and the dwarfs 
also, instead of ha\ing them in pots? If so, are 
there any Roses you could recommend for weeping 
standards among the others? Would Tea Rambler be 
any good? The fifteen above alluded to are as fol¬ 
lows: 'Antoine Uivoire, 'Bridesmaid. •Caroline Tes- 
tont, ’Frau Karl Druschki. Lady Battersea. Lady 
Roberts, Liberty or Richmond, ’Mine. Abel Chntenny, 
•Mme. Fa loot, ’Mine. Hoste, ’Mrs. E. Mauley, Mrs. 
John Lning, *Papa Gontier, Sunrise, •The Bride, and 
•White Mu man Coehet. Of these, the ones marked * 
would be the ones I should use as standards and half¬ 
standards, as well as dwarfs, if you think a bed 
would he successful. If not. would it be better to 
make stages for pot-Roses or stand them on the floor? 
Will you also kindly tell me what temperature is re¬ 
quired ami how much heat Roses will stand? The 
soil here is naturally good for Roses, but I know 
nothing about their requirements indoors. When 
must 1 plant indoors for winter blooming? I do not 
mind whether I get the house done now or in the 
spring.—C lay Soil. 

[You have an excellent opportunity of 
growing Rosea in such n structure as you 
I describe. We are surprised nioio people do 


not avail themselves of the means at their 
command to obtain a supply of Roses in win¬ 
ter and early spring. The aspect of your 
house is good, and, doubtless, you are pre¬ 
pared to provide a well-trenched border for 
the plants to root into. We are decidedly in 
favour of planting out Roses under glass 
wherever that is possible, for not only is the 
labour of watering minimised, but the plants 
develop so much better. Of course, to do 
this the house must be entirely devoted to 
the Roses. It would be an excellent arrange¬ 
ment if the roof were removable, so that tlie 
plants could have the benefit of the rains 
and natural conditions during the summer 
months. We fear the narrow border will 
hardly suffice for the wall climbers, unless 
you can considerably deepen it and ensure 
that the hot-water pipes are not too close 
to the roots. Otherwise you could plant the 
Roses in large tubs or pots. The fruit bor¬ 
der should lie trenched 2 feet to 3 feet deep, 
and if soil is not good, this should lie re¬ 
placed with one-year-old stacked top spit 
from a meadow, although this expense is not 
necessary if you are satisfied the staple soil 
is in good condition. We should advise you 
to incorporate some half-inch bones, also a 
liberal amount of farmyard-manure, but not 
of a fresh, strawy nature. 

Where the Roses are obtainable in pots, 
these would be decidedly the best to procure, 
and if you do not object to the expense, those 
known as extra-sized are preferable. Such 
plants would give you a fine return this com¬ 
ing spring. By all means have a few stan¬ 
dards and half-standards, and a few weeping 
standards would have a nice effect. It would 
be desirable, if these last were selected from 
the climbing Tea and Noisette groups, such 
sorts as climbing Niphetos, Alister Stella 
Gray, Wm. Allen Richardson, Marechal Niel, 
etc., making beautiful drooping heads, especi¬ 
ally if slightly trained at first. And, more¬ 
over, they keep up a more or less continuous 
supply of blossom, whereas such sorbs as 
Tea Rambler, beautiful as they are, only 
blossom once in a season. You could set out 
the bush plants about 2;V feet apart, and 
later on cut out any that crowd the others. 

It is usual to .somewhat tie out the growths, 
so that the lowermost eyes are induced to 
break. To carry this out, the distance apart, 
which we advise is none too much. The 
standards and half standards could be planted 
to rise above the hush plants, and should be, 
say, at distances of about 0 feet apart. 

The varieties you name fer the wall 
climbers would be too vigorous for a 10-feet 
wall, unless you plant fewer and train the 
growths almost horizontally. We much pre¬ 
fer for such a wall varieties of the type of 
Mme. Abel Chatenav, Mme. Lambard, 
Kaiseriu Augusta Victoria, Richmond, etc. 
These will soon cover such a wall and pro¬ 
vide you with abundance of blossom. The 
sorts you name as having been selected bv 
you are all first-rate, and those marked for 
standards and half-standards also are a good 
selection. You should add Joseph Hill. 
Marquise de Sinety, Lo Progress, and Phari 
soer to your selection. 

A good temperature to start with would be 
about 45 dogs, by night, with a rise to about 
50 degs. by day. After all are planted the 
pot plants should be pruned, but only very 
moderately the first year. The standard and 
half-standard plants' not in pots should be 
allowed to remain two or three weeks after 
planting before pruning them, but all foli¬ 
age should be removed before planting. 
Roses prefer a steady, oven temperature to a 
forcing one. It. is best to allow the plants 
to break very slowly at. first. They are al¬ 
ways the stronger for it in the end. As soon 
as roots are active, and new growths a few 
inches long, then a liitle more heat may be 
applied, increasing this up to 60 degs. to 
65 degs. by day as growth advances. Al¬ 
ways avoid giving the plants sudden gusts of 
air, for this is a sure precursor of mildew. 
The air should be so given that no cold cur¬ 
rent reaches the plants. A dry atmosphere . 
is also very detrimental to the Roses. They 
like a nice moist (but pot too moist) buoyant 
atmosphere; in fact, the nearer we can 
imitate genial spring and early summer 
weather in our glasshouse* th 


Iter is it 






578 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


December 28, 1907 


for the Boses. We have seen splendid Roses 
grown upon a Peach-tree wall where a lean- 
to shelter had been afforded, but with air 
constantly entering at the base, the roof be¬ 
ing supported by pillars. Not a sign of mil¬ 
dew was present. The Roses obtained just 
a steady, uniform temperature, which they 
liked. 

We have had several articles in our back 
numbers dealing with pot-Roses under glass, 
but as the season is now upon us again we 
intend to publish shortly some up-to-date in¬ 
formation upon this interesting subject. You 
should plant as soon as ever you can make 
the house ready, although the work may be 
deferred a few weeks, if necessary.] 


INDOOR PLANT& 

WATERING PLANTS. 

One of the most important factors in the suc¬ 
cessful culture of plants is the judicious use 
of the watering pot. It would be difficult to 
lav down any definite rule on the subject. 
Watering has to be regulated to a great ex¬ 
tent by local circumstances, also by the re- 
quirements of the different plants under 
treatment. It would be quite safe to say that 
more err in over-watering than in not giving 
enough. This is particularly the case hi 
regard to Fern culture. It is a common 
idea that all a Fern requires is to be potted 
in peat, heavily shaded, and drenched with 
water; but many of our most tender Ferns 
may be grown fully exposed to the sun, 
potted in loam, and kept rather dry than 
otherwise. It is after repotting that they 
are more liable to suffer from too much mois¬ 
ture. If the new soil gets soddened before the 
roots have taken hold of it, they will never 
make a good start; but after the pots are W’dl 
filled with roots they will take more water, 
vet either extreme should be avoided even 
then. With all flowering plants the evil of 
over watering is equally apparent. Various 
subjects, of course, require different treat 
ment, and just, at the time they are in full 
bloom they take up much more water than 
previously, without regard to the pots being 
fuller of roots than at the earlier period, and 
many fail to flower satisfactorily if only onec 
allowed to get too dry after the* buds arc set. 
I have often heard the case of Camellia buds 
dropping being disputed. I believe there are 
more lost through drought than any other 
cause, through keeping the house too warm 
for a few days ami then lowering the tem¬ 
perature again will prove equally disastrous. 
Mignonette is, perhaps, one of the subjects 
that require the greatest, care in watering. 
I remember once having a splendid batch just 
coming into flower, and, having to be from 
home, 1 found, on my return, that it had 
been quite withered down, but had just been 
watered over twice. The result was that it 
was completely spoiled, the drought having 
crippled the tender roots, which prevented 
them taking up the water when it was given 
If only a light watering and sprinkling over¬ 
head had been given, it might have revived, 
but the over-watering, with roots not in a 
condition to take it. up, was fatal. 

Poinsettias and Euphorbia joequinimflora 
arc both very liable to lose their roots 
Through either extreme. The result is more 
frequently seen when the soil is too wet. 
Yet at the same time it may have been 
caused through being too dry in the first 
place. During the winter, plants standing 
on a moist bottom will require comparatively 
little water, while those on a dry stage, espe¬ 
cially if there are hot-water pipes beneath, 
are liable to dry at the bottom, while the 
surface may appear moist; this is more likely 
to happen where the syringe is used. Speak 
ing of the syringe, it is a splendid instrument 
when judiciously used, though mueh inis 
chief often oeeurs through using it at the 
wrong time aiul by not handling it properly. 
I prefer a syringe with a jot nozzle, and to 
regulate the force with the finger. With a 
little practice it is easy to produce the finest 
sprav or give more force as desired, and it 
can Ik* directed under the foliage better than 
by a rase nozzle. Red-spider would not. 
prove so troublesome if more regard were 
paid to thoroughly waiting the under aide of 
the foliage of plant| sublet^ t<> tJnplijot. 

For syringing, I li»V like water 


ae near the temperature of the house ae 
possible, though this is not absolutely neces¬ 
sary, for I have had to use quite cold water 
for stove plants, and have been unable to 
detect any evil results. I fully believe it is 
better to use water below* than above the 
temperature of the house, and for watering 
I have found that warm water would do 
harm, but have never proved that cold water 
was detrimental, though 1 have never gone to 
any extreme. 

The late Mr. Bauso (who was one of the 
cleverest propagators of his time) was much 
in favour of cold w r ater, and I have followed 
his advice, with good results. S. 

RICHARDIA iETIIIOPICA DISEASED. 
This is, without exception, one of the most 
useful winter-flowering plants we have for 
the greenhouse, and up to within the past 
five years or so I have never seen any trace 
of disease, blit of late something lias come 
over the plants that, try how one will, a 
healthy stock seems well nigh impossible. 
Mine is not an isolated case ; in fact, if 1 uni 
not. mistaken, it is getting pretty general. 
True, this season my stock is better than in 
the past year or two, yet it. does not show that 
robustness of foliage formerly seen in the 
plants. For some years I have kept, to the 
pot system, and thought, perhaps, this may 
have hail something to do with the unsatis¬ 
factory state of the plants, so I planted 
them out early in July. Here they soon ap¬ 
peared above ground, and grew away kindly, 
and were lifted towards the latter part of 
September. Now' (the end of November) most 
of them look fairly healthy, a few exhibiting 
the same old sickly yellow appearance of the 
foliage, which denotes that something must 
Ik* amiss with either the rhizome or root. 
These will make no headway this winter, for 
certain, their leaves gradually withering up 
and the plants as weak as can Ik*. Can any 
reader solve this question and tell us the 
cure? If so, he will be conferring on many 
a grower a lasting benefit. Do we give too 
much in the way of manure to the plants 
while growing? Do we roast them loo much 
after flowering? In former years I have out 
away the diseased parts of the root stock 
when repotting, but this is of little avail. 

Devonian. 


WINTERING PLANTS AND PLANTS 
FOR DECORATION. 

I HAVE been advised, in order to economise fuel, 
to turn what has hitherto been a “ stove ” into 
a greenhouse, with temper at lire of 4a degs., and to 
turn off all heat till the trees are in flower from span- 
roofed Peach-house and vinery. Hitherto, 1 have hud, 
from tiie stove, Cypripediums, Demirobiums, Cucum¬ 
bers, and foliage plants, which come in very useful 
in summer for small conservatory attached to house; 
Chrysanthemums, from vinery; and Azaleas, Ericas, 
Rhododendron Veitchl, and bedding-out plants from 
Peach-house. I have liad Peaches in June, and 
Grapes in July and August, hut would not. mind these 
being later. I would be glad to know: (1) If I could 
have Midi tilings as Azalea indica. Arum Lilies, 
Laelienulias, Cactus (with large, crimson flowers). 
Ericas, Diosmas, Cyclamens, etc., in the Peach-house, 
where a few degrees of frost might get at them, or 
if they should all he moved into the smaller house, 
with temperature 45 (legs.? This house will lie rather 
crowded with stock of Geraniums, Heliotrope, for bed¬ 
ding out next year? (2) What plants would you sug¬ 
gest to make a bright conservatory in July, August, 
and September? 1 have sheds in which Gannas, etc., 
can he housed.—B. H. E. 

[Wo should be sorry to winter such things 
as Cyclamens, Arum Lilies, Lacheualias, and 
Cape Heaths in an indicated house. Our cli¬ 
mate is so uucertaiu that, although in some 
winters they might not sustain injury, in 
others they would be severely injured, if not 
killed. Hitherto you have forced the Grapes 
and Peaches. Do not you think that you will 
economise sufficiently by simply allowing 
them to come on with the season, with the ex¬ 
ception of giving some fire-heat later on to 
ripen the Muscats, which cannot, even in the 
south of England, be depended on to mature 
properly in unheated houses? In order to 
make sure of ripening them properly, von 
would have to start firing when they come 
into bloom, otherwise the berries may not 
set, and you will get. hunches in which half 
the berries fail to swell up. In this way you 
will make a great difference in the coal bill. 
The Peaches, on the contrary, can come on 
naturally, and art* sure to ripen well, and 


will be less liable to bud-dropping than when 
their natural fruiting time is anticipated by 
fire-heat. You will also, probably, obtain a 
larger yield of fruit. If yoft crowd your 
greenhouse and bedding plants into 60 small 
a compass we are afraid you will later on 
come to the sorrowful conclusion that you 
have pushed economy a little too far. The 
Azaleas will, very probably, cast their lower 
leaves, and the bedding pianta will draw up 
weak, and will be so deficient in stamina that 
half the summer will pass before they become 
effective. As you will save so much by dis¬ 
continuing forcing the Vines and Peaches, 
do not you think that you would do better by 
treating the vinery as a cool house, putting 
anything of a very tender nature in the 
Cucumber-house, which you propose to main¬ 
tain at a temperature of 45 degs., and winter¬ 
ing the other things in the vinery, so that the 
Peach-house can be kept cold, which will do 
the trees good, by giving them the rest that 
they get in the open ground? It is not at all 
necessary that Cyclamens, Arums, liedding- 
plante, and things of a similar character 
should he wintered in a temperature of 
45 degs., and it will do them no harm if the 
temperature drops to within a degree or two 
of freezing point; in fact, all that one lias to 
do is to keep out frost, and sometimes, in a 
time of continuous heavy fog, just warm the 
pipes early in the day, putting on no more 
fuel after mid-day, which keeps the air dry and 
buoyant, wards off damp, and maintains the 
functions of the plants in a healthy condition. 
This may not be necessary more than half-a- 
dozen times during the winter. Simply pre¬ 
serving plants from the effects of frost and 
damp is very different from maintaining a 
temperature of 45 degs. or forwarding things 
during the coldest, months of the year. In 
gardening, the middle course is the host. 
Plants require a certain amount of ''breath¬ 
ing” space, and if during the dull months 
they suffer from overcrowding, they are any¬ 
thing but a joy to the owner, and do no 
credit to the man in charge later on. As 
regards plants for conservatory decoration in 
summer and autumn, you will have to rely 
mainly on Fuchsias, Zonal Pelargoniums, 
Paris Daisies (white and yellow), Tuberous 
Begonias—the last, if started in your 
warmest house, or on gentle bottom heat in 
a frame in April, will be effective from tin* 
middle of July up to October. Cannas, which 
you can winter in a shed, if potted at the 
same time, will Ik* found very useful, as they 
are ornamental on account of their foliage ns 
well as their flowers. If you think you arc 
likely to be short of these things, you might 
employ some of the showiest annuals, such 
as C’larkia pulchella, pink and white; 
Scabious, which are. used in this way by many 
for autumn decoration ; the annual Chrysan¬ 
themums, especially tricolor, which market 
gardeners grow in this way ; also Salpiglos- 
sis, at one time much grown in pots. The 
easiest way to manage these things is to sow 
the seeds in 6-inch pots succession ally in 
April and May, standing tin* pots in tin* full 
sun in the open, not coddling them in any 
way, and bringing them in os you need them. 
1 do not know* of any more simple and inex¬ 
pensive way of raising tilings for the purpose 
you mention.] 

NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Begonia Corbeille tie Feu.- This Begonia, 
which was raised and distributed by M. 
Lemoine, of Nancy, ns long ago as 1H91, is as 
valuable for the embellishment of the green 
house in the autumn as it is for planting out 
during the summer. Tt was announced hv 
M. T/Ctnoino as a hybrid between B. eemper- 
florens and B. fuehsioides, and certainly tliis 
is borne out by its general appearance. It is. 
as will be understood by its parentage, one 
of the fibrous-rooted class, and, naturally. 
Forms a freely branched, bushy specimen, 
clothed with neat, shining, green leaves. The 
flowers, borne freely in moderate-sized 
panicles, are of a bright coral-red colour, 
and a specimen in full bloom makes a goodly 
show. To those (and there arc many) who 
can sec no beauty in ia plant unless it bears 
huge blossoms, this will not appeal-: but, 
fortunately,-everyone does not regard flowers 
from that standpoint.- T. G. 8. 


Decembee 2S, 1007 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


fito 


CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 


CHRYSANTHEMUMS FOR GROUFING. 
The accompanying illustration of Chrysan¬ 
themums, as grown at Kew in the greenhouse 
known as No. 4, will afford readers of 
Gardening the best possible proof of the 
value of some of tl^e older sorts when grown 
in a free and natural manner. Of the grace 
and beauty, as well as freedom of flowering, i 
the picture reveals all that is needful—elo- I 
quent testimony of the value of some well- i 
nigh forgotten kinds, that would certainly be I 
worth while growing did the amateur make , 
up his mind to do so. All of the varieties in | 
the group are of easy culture, and suited to j 
flowering in October and November—the for- I 
mer month more particularly. Too fre¬ 
quently these older sorts are put on one side, 
and novelties, tried and untried, appear in 
their stead. In this connection it is at least 
interesting to find that the Kew authorities 
retain some of these good free-flowering 
sorts, despite the fact that hundreds exist bo- 


MARKET CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

A show of market Chrysanthemums was held 
under the auspices of the National Chrysan¬ 
themum Society, in the foreign flower mar¬ 
ket, Covent Garden, on Wednesday, the 11th 
inst. Never were the flowers in better form. 
Market growers are now in possession of 
varieties having a robust constitution, and 
o.i this account, the flowers are freely de¬ 
veloped, and all that the decorator could wish 
for. White Chrysanthemums were excellent, 
many of them being almost snowy-white in 
their purity, and others quite a glistening 
white. Specially noteworthy were two in¬ 
curved sorts, Snowdrift and Mrs. F. Judson. 
The form was really pleasing, and when set 
up in the vases, the effect was striking. The 
blooms of Mrs. Judson were the whiter of 
the two sorts. Guy Hamilton is a good, 
long-petalled, creamy-white Japanese kind, 
the flowers rather larger than in most others. 
A newer sort for market work is Mine. R. 
Oberthur. Although this variety has been 
seen at the Crystal Palace shows for a year 
or two past, it has only just come to be re 


character of the plant. Another yellow kind, 
not so well known, is Golden Age. Either 
as a pot plant or for cutting, this is an ex¬ 
cellent variety for early December uses. Thfe 
bloom is of Japanese reflexed form, and the 
colour is a beautiful rich orange-yellow. 
W. H. Lincoln was well shown as a pot plant. 
Allman’s Yellow', as representing the small¬ 
flowering Japanese, is an ideal variety. The 
blooms were shown in handsome bunches of 
freely flowered sprays, and their bright yel¬ 
low colour was very effective. Yellow Vic¬ 
toria and Yellow Mrs. Thompson were splen¬ 
didly represented; although older than most 
of the other yellow varieties, they were both 
good, especially the latter variety. Lady 
Lennard, a useful bronzy-amber Japanese, is 
somewhat new in the market varieties. As 
an exhibition sort, many growers thought 
well of it, but for market it is promising. 
The rosy-pink blossoms of Doeteur Engue- 
liard are quite distinct, ami very effective 
under artificial light. The flowers are of 
good form and full. Mine. Paolo Radaelli 
still retains its hold. Some flowers of this 
variety were the biggest in the show. The 



A pnnp of Chrysanthemums. From a photograph in the Royal Gardens, Kew. 


sides. At the right and left hand side of the 
picture is the well-known yellow Soleil d’Oc- 
tobre. The size of the blossoms is well shown 
in the picture. There is also in cultivation 
a bronze sport of this kind, equally well 
worth the attention of all who prefer easily- 
grown sorts. In the top central portion of 
the picture is seen the beautiful Lady Sel- 
borne, a pure white variety greatly prized a 
score of years ago, and as valuable to-day as 
of yore. This and the previously-mentioned 
kiwis are of dwarf habit, 3J feet or 4 feet 
high, Lady Sol borne being especially well 
suited to bush plant cultivation. In the 
lower central position is the pink-flowered 
La Triomphante, also an old favourite, and 
still worth cultivating. Of the last-named 
sort there is a yellow flowered variety—a 
sport called Yellow Triomphante- just as 
worthy of a good place whore collections of 
these plants are grown as is the pink variety 
shown in the picture. Amid the annual in¬ 
flux of novelties in these plants it is pleasant 
to find there are in hijgtP^places thos<| who 
regard these old-time fffcourjde^ in t^ijitii^ie 
light and grow them a^wRmgly. , ^ 


cognised as a high-class flower for market. 
It is an ideal flower for late work, the blooms 
lieing large and full and pure white. Mile. 
Theresa Panckoucke is being fast outclassed 
by the newer kinds. The flowers of this are 
large, but are less pleasing than they were 
a few years ago. It is a free-blooming sort, 
which, of course, gives it a value in the eyes 
of many growers. Another free-flowering re¬ 
flexed Japanese is Mmo. Philippe Rivoire. 
This is a pretty creamy-white sort, and quite 
distinct. Niveum is another white that will 
not now stand in with the newer sorts. Ae 
represented, it was poor in comparison with 
others. Heston White is a sport, from the 
well-known pink variety, Framfield Pink, 
and a flower of the purest white. Strange to 
say, the host flowers of this variety in the 
show were almost creamy-white at the bas? 
of the florets, possibly due to high cult lire. 
Older white sorts were Princess Victoria and 
Mrs. J. Thompson, both of them still good. 

Yellow varieties wore also well shown. 
Nagoya is a fine bright rich yellow flower, of 
beautiful quality. Blooms of this variety 
were set up in many exhibits, and they were 
nil good. This says much for the good 


| colour is pale rose, tinted yellow, and the 
flowers belong to the Japanese incurved seo- 
I tion. Mile. Laurence Zede is a beautiful 
I pink Japanese incurved that should travel 
well. The form is attractive and the colour 
bright. Framfield Pink and its sports were 
well shown. One of the sports, named Win- 
1 ter Cheer, is a beautiful carmine amaranth, 
and i;s much appreciated at this season. 
Another sport is Florence Heady, of a bronze 
! colour, and similar in form to the parent 
variety. They are all ideal for market. The 
blooms of A. J. Balfour are poor in com¬ 
parison with those of other pink sorts, al¬ 
though the colour is pleasing. We have a 
liking for Papa Veilliard, the blooms of 
which are of pretty form, and the colour a 
distinct shade of rose pink, tipped white. 
A variety we seldom see is Hilda Tulley; its 
bright crimson colour and good form stamp¬ 
ing it as an invaluable sort at this late 
period. Putney George, an old reflexed 
kind, was shown in fine form. The flowers 
are severely formal, and their colour deep 
| crimson, edged golden yellow. Until Hie 
more recent+y introduced Japanese camelnto 
I cultivation, this old so-rjt; was very highly 









GSO 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


T)£ckmbe[i 28, 1907 


valued. In Exinouth Crimson the blooms 
are too thin, and invariably show their 
‘‘eye.” Considering its age, Matthew Hodg¬ 
son was well represented. It is of a dis- 
tinct colour, being a crimson-brown, and most 
effective. Tuxedo was shown under the 
name of Mabel Butler. This old sort is now 
so well known that it is next to impossible to 
mistake the bronzy-orange flowers of tho 
parent variety. King of Humes, the yellow- 
plumed sort, with notched florets, was well 
shown. Another less interesting flower of 
the same type is Mary Me Be an, a deep 
bronze, and very distinct. Groups of plants 
suitable for market work, the plants grown 
in small pots, were specially attractive, and 
a nice display of single-flowered kinds added 
to the practical value of the exhibition. 

E. G. 


LATE FLOWERING VARIETIES. 
When once a market grower, or, for that 
matter, any cultivator, lias a variety in any 
particular colour that has served him well in 
|mat years, there is a disinclination to try 
anything new. On the other hand, it is wise 
to do so, Iwcause from causes such as loss of 
constitution, old-established sorts become en¬ 
feebled, and then cannot Ik* termed satisfac¬ 
tory. Growing any variety year after year 
from one’s own stock of cuttings is pretty cer¬ 
tain to bring on this loss of vigour. 1 have 
seen this even in the case of such hardy early 
sorts a-s Mine. Desgrangc and Mine. Marie 
Masse. Who can flower that once popular 
late white. L. Canning, as it used to he done? 
For these* reasons, then, wo must be at nil. 
times on the watch for anv new or likely 
variety suitable for late flowering - a period 
when choice blooms are valuable. 

Very good whites are Mine. R. Oberthur 
and Mile. Therese Panckoncke, although 
rather tall in growth. Miss Maud Jefferies 
is a first-rate white, new. and worth a trial. 
It is dwarf, and the blooms are of good, last¬ 
ing quality. Mrs. Swinburne is a free-flower¬ 
ing kind, which produces first class blossoms 
on a plant, of medium height. Canned's Late 
Prolific (not unlike Niveuin) and Mrs. W. 
Elliott, are two less-known sorts worth grow¬ 
ing ; so is Snowflake. Westv*rn King, al¬ 
though it has been in cultivation some time, 
is still one of the very lest for the last month 
of the year. Mrs. Jos. Thompson and Prin¬ 
cess Victoria, two old ones again, are excel 
lent when well done, but many growers fail 
with them. In crimsons, most difficult of all 
to get in good colour late in the year, arc : 
Violet Lady Beaumont and S. T. Wright, 
both rather tall in growth, but very good as 
late flowering varieties. The latest of all 
ciimsons is W. J. Cross ley. I expect much 
from this. The colour is good, and the 
blooms exceptionally lasting when cut. There 
is plenty of nice yellows, quite tile deepest in 
colour being Ti n • Gold ; the habit, too, is 
firs! rate. Golden Ag • i » also very fine. I 
have not grown this. To me it seems so much 
like True Gold that 1 am wondering if they 
are one and the same thing. Perhaps some 
cine who has grown both can give informa¬ 
tion. At nny rate, we do not wish for any 
thing better than either one. Nagoya, 
lighter in shade, is a good yellow’. Of this 
lighter shade A. L. Stevens is an unknown 
variety, with capital qualities. Allman's 
Yellow is a favourite, and the deep yellow 
sport from the white Princess Victoria is 
guod when well grown. This remark applies 
to the yellow Mrs. Jos. Thompson. Pink 
coloured kinds are abundant in such ns Mile. 
Louise Charvet and A. J. Balfour, both well- 
known late ones : also Framfield Pink and its 
deep coloured sport. Winter Cheer. Morton 
F. Plant- is well worth a trial ; no is Mine. 
If. Douillet. Nellv Bean is a charming late 
kind, a deep 1 i 1 no-pink. It is of vigorous 

growth, and blooms freely. Miss Miriam 
Hankev is another unknown sort as a late 
variety likely to be satisfactory. Mine. G. 
Busson and Mine. G. Debrie produce, late in 
the year, excellent blooms of a blush shade. 
Bronzes for late flowering are not. too plenti¬ 
ful. I doubt if there is any sort vet to heat 
the olrl Lord Brooke. M. Paul Wnttine is a 
new’ one that should la* tried. The colour is 
very fine, and tle*> habit natimnllv late. 
Tuxedo ,»s,.such if tall/^kwwur^lrpl other¬ 
wise it?Vs 1 goodquVjl^Jn Ih^rtliX- 


A few of the singles bloom well late in the 
season. Quite at their best now (December 
9th) are Earlswood Beauty, a charming 
creamy white. The flowers, where plants 
have been slightly disbudded, are about 
3 inches across, and the stems hold them up 
stiffly. Framfield Beauty is a crimson, a very 
good companion to the above. J. F. McLeod, 
a bright yellow’, rather larger than either, is 
really fine. Crown Jewel, bronzy yellow, is 
yet. another good late single, but it. dot's not 
keep quite 1 so well as the others named. My 
idea of growing these late flowering kinds is 
not to top the plants at any time, but let 
them branch in a natural way. One stout 
stick holds the plant, and the side branches 
are loosely slung to this. Far better flowers 
are obtained than by stopping the growth, so 
often recommended. H. 8. 


ANEMONE-FLOWERED CIIRYSANTH E 

MUMS AT THE CRYSTAL PALACE. 
Not for several years have 1 seen such an 
interesting display of the large-flowered and 
Japanese Anemone Chrysanthemums as that 
made at the recent show of the National 
Chrysanthemum Society. I am pleased to see 
that hoards are now dispensed with for the 
purpose iff displaying these flowers, and the 
change is ono that should Ik* regarded with 
favour. The Anemone flowered Chrysanthe¬ 
mums were set up in vases, three blooms in 
each, and in this way it was possible to see 
their curious and interesting character. Such 
a display could not fail to convince visitors 
to the show of the worth of these types of 
the flower for decoration. Tho following 
incljidc some of the more noteworthy sorts 
exhibited : 

Japanese oh Longtahselied Anemones. 

Silt Walter Raleigh. —Large and well- 
formed flower, having long pale-blush guard 
florets and deep-coloured centre. 

Mme. Lawton is a large flower, of splen¬ 
did quality; long rosy-white guard florets 
and yellow disc. 

John Bunyan. — A flower of even form, 
having light yellow guard florets and high, 
well-formed disc of a deeper yellow colour. 

Owen’s Perfection.— 1 This has lilac 

guard florets ami lilac-tinted disc. 

Mrs. Siiimmins. —This is a comparatively 
new sort, that was shown in excellent form 
and condition. The colour of both guard 
florets and disc may In* described as apricot, 
shaded red. 

W. W. Ahtor.— This has blush guard 
florets, evenly disposed round a large, well 
formed disc* of a yellow colour, shaded rose. 

Mrs. Harry Ei \nd. —In this instance the 
plant is of easy culture, arid develops heauti 
ful flowers, with a large disc of a lilac colour. 

L\ Deoil. In this the colour is a shade 
of deep reddish purple. 

Dm'hks.s of Westminster. —This is n 
dainty flower, having silvery blush guard 
florets and lilac disc. 

Le Chalonaih.— -This is a flower of good 
form, colour citron-wlh w. tinted bronze. 

Quern Elizabeth.- When represented in 
good form, this is a beautiful flower. The 
guard florets are long and fluted, and of good 
substance, their colour being silvery-blush. 
and the disc rose and yellow. 

Souvenir de Norgiots. —This is a 
creamy-white sport from W. W. Astor. 
already described, tho colour being edged 
rose, this adding to its attractiveness. 

Large flowered Anemones (Old Type). 

Cincinnati. — A large flower, having blush 
guard florets and paler disc, of uncertain 
development. 

Mrs. Caterer. —The best of all the pure 
white sorts. It is very free flowering. 

Gladys Spaulding. —A rather small 
flower, with high, full disc. It, has pale yel¬ 
low drooping guard florets ami disc. 

J. Thorpe, Jun\. is a highly finished 
flower; guard florets and disc of a rich 
golden yellow colour. 

Mrs.* Judge Benedict. —This is a flower 
of good form, having a largo sulphur-yellow 
disc, and rose-tinted guard florets. 

Mme. Robert Owen.—A good white- 
flowered variety, the form of the flower 
being all that could he desired. 

Musk. Ciias. Lehocqz.—Q uite distinct 


from all the other large flowered Anemones. 
The ray or guard florets are of a buff colour, 
suffused yellow, and the well formed disc is 
bright yellow, tinted carmine. 

Ernest Cooper. —This is a sport from an 
old variety, named Juno, once popular. Tho 
colour in this instance is cream, with yellow 
centre. 

Descarteb. —A beautiful sort, that needs 
to he caught just in condition to he able to 
show it. in proper form. a$ it pales with age. 
The colour may be described as bright crim¬ 
son-red. 

Mlle. Nathalie Brun. —This is a large 
flower, with a high, well-formed disc; colour, 
silvery-white, with gold-tipped centre. 

Lady Margaret. —A large, well formed 
flower of the purest white. When well done, 
this variety represents the type at its best. 
The growths are very brittle about bud-form- 
ing time. 

Miss Annie Lowe.—T his is a bright yel¬ 
low sport from Lady Margaret, and is simi¬ 
lar in every respect but colour to the parent 


NOTES AND EE PLIES. 

Chrysanthemum Lillie.— For flowering 
outdoors Ibis variety can be highly recom¬ 
mended. It is very free flowering, the blooms 
being large, full, well formed, and the colour 
pink. In habit of growth it is all one can 
desire, the plants being bushy, and not **\- 
eeeding 2 feet in height. It is an excellent sort 
to grow in company with Mario Masse and its 
sports, and is a front-row plant— i.e. when the 
large-flowered varieties of early flowering 
Chrysanthemums are used exclusively for 
border decoration. The plants begin to 
flower about tlu* middle of September, hut 
are at their best at the end of that month.— 
A. W. 

Chrysanthemum Caprice du Printemps. 

—“A. W.” (page 536) rightly draws atten¬ 
tion to this most valuable variety. As a de¬ 
corative bush plant there are few equal to it 
in every respect. It is one of the most popu¬ 
lar in Frame, where it is largely used as an 
edging for big groups at the shows generally 
in conjunction with a small yellow Pompon 
called Gcrlie d’Or. It. is. however, essential 
to point out that the variety known here as 
Caprice du Printemps is, properly named. 
Baronne <1** Yinols, and that it was raised by 
M. Geo. Rruant. of Piitiors. The variety 
has sported, probably, half-a-dozen times, 
hut none of the sports equal in. colour the 
parent. Used in masses or as a continuous 
edging, Baronne de Yinols has few equals, and 
it certainly ought to be known under its 
proper name. C. II. P. 

Pretty groups of Chrysanthemums. 
The Romford Chrysanthemum Society has 
done well to break away from the orthodox 
in the groups set up at their show. For 
many years past in ail parts of the country 
groujw of Chrysanthemums have been mad • 
up chiefly of Japanese varieties, with, pos¬ 
sibly. a few incurved sorts. The result rf 
this undue preference for the Japanese varie¬ 
ties is seen in the ignorance of the general 
public, who seem to think that, the Japanese 
types of the flower are the only ones. 
Scarcely ever are the Anemone, Japanese 
Anemone, Pompon Anemone, re flexed, and 
other interesting types set up in groups, ami 
only in a very limited degree are they seen 
eut. The committee of the Romford society 
provides for a group of Chrysanthemums in 
pots, to Ik* shown us grown, and to consist 
of small to medium-sized blossoming sorts ; 
also representing as many types ns possible. 
The group has to be arranged for effect, 
hi the leading group well grown single- 
flowered specimens were effectively disposed, 
and these contrasted very pleasingly with 
Pompous, Japanese of the decorative free- 
flowering kinds, as well as others of some¬ 
what. larger size. We would like to see 
other societies follow this example. E. G. 

"The English Flower Garden and Home 

Grounds.'*— New Edition, 10th, revised, with descrip¬ 
tions of all the best plants, trees, and shrubs, their 
culture and arrangement, illustrated on wood. Cloth, 
medium 8vo. 15s. j post free, 15s. Cd. 

“The English Flower Garden” may also I# 
had finely bound in f volsr, halt veil urn, Sf,s. nett. Of 

all booksellers. CHAMPAIGN 




December 28, 1907 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


681 


OUTDOOR PLANTS^ 

PERGOLAS.-X. 

Some people say that pergolas are more 
adapted for level ground and straight lines. 
This is not eo, as with care they can l>e 
adapted to almost any turfaee. In this ease 
the object was to get up from a hank of 
shrubs to a playground well above, and partly 
also to take advantage of a group of shade 
trees. It has been completely successful. 
The plants that adorn it best are the smaller 
kinds of Clematis, large climbing Roses, like 
Reve d’Or, and the scarlet Trop:coluni spe-ci- 
osum. The pillars are 11-inch brick, and the 
main cross-pieces are Oak. More recently the 


of these have that pure ground and clear cut 
colourings nt the edges found in the old 
florists’ Pieotees. Practically the distinctions 
between Carnations and Pieotees are chiefly 
found in flower markings. Pieotees were, no 
j doubt, all originally what are now classed as 
Fancy Carnations, but by constant cross¬ 
breeding and selection the colouring on the 
I petnls was purified and driven out, as it were, 
to the extreme edge, and thus became heavy 
j or light edges, such as we see now. D. 

A FELLS IDE GARDEN. 

On a wild and desolate tract of moorland, 
I overlooking the Cumberland Fells, there 
'stands a solitary dwelling, half-farm, lialf- 


' guide to the wayfarer. It catches the eye, 
too, of the traveller for a few moments as he 
! journeys north, for in the distance is the 
railway, and, between, the river, flowing 
through the beautiful Vale of Eden. On a 
clear day one may trace the stream for miles 
as it meanders on its way, now broadening 
out like a placid lake, now a fierce torrent 
I as when swollen with rain. Though distant 
from the garden, from the vantage ground 
of the manor house, one can hear its murmur 
I at times in the quiet of the summer night, 
as in these parts there is seldom anything to 
disturb one’s slumbers louder than the bleat¬ 
ing of sheep, or the weird cry of some bird 
in the darkness. There are few trees on the 
! open stretches of moorland, except, perhaps. 



xjh S3 


A pergola on rUinjj ground. 


pillars have been I i mew ashed in the Italian 
way, and I be effect is Ixdter, as getting rid of 
the staring join to of the brickwork. The 
floor is of old London worn-out flags. 

Picotee v. Carnation. It is interesting to 
note that, so far. no flowers of the pure- 
edged or Picotee form have yet l>een seen 
amongst the winter-blooming or Tree-Carna¬ 
tions. There are several with flaked or parti¬ 
colored markings, but of purc-edged flowers 
none. No doubt in this section of Carnations 
self flowers are most in request. Generally 
of the ordinary summer-flowering section of 
Carnations, edged or Picotee-flowered plants 
seem to Ik*, less rohu^trTknn are thosl of self 
coloured forms. Tie sjhTkt^c.- t^TjMptnbly, 
are tin* yellow gi-omm—rjrolces.HVrfugh few 


manor house. It is built of stone, and one 
would imagine from ils isolated and almost 
impregnable position that it had been used 
as a stronghold in feudal times ; indeed, one 
is well nigh convinced of this on a closer | 
acquaintance*, for the doors of the interior j 
dividing the several apartments are thick I 
with iron studs, and are further protected by I 
stout bars. Black Oak beams overhead, I 
open fireplaces with ingle nooks, and flag - | 
stone floors in several of the rooms, impress 
the visitor with the antiquity of the place. 
Behind the house is a garden, and on the J 
moors beyond a belt of tall trees, planted j 
many years ago. helps to break the fierceness 
of the wintry gales. Like many other home¬ 
steads on Fellside, the front of the house is 
white!, standing beacon like on the bill, a 


gnarled Thorns or weather-beaten Poplars. 
Here, in the early autumn, the purple Ling 
and Heather vie with Bracken and Fern ; 
Polvpodiums are to he found clustering 
about the rocks that here and there protrude 
from the brown peat, whilst in the fine 
Tufted Grass, Yellow Vetches, Loose-Strife, 
Campanulas, and Lady Smocks make a gay 
foreground. Now and again some tiny stream 
from the mountain-side intercepts one’s path¬ 
way to join the river below. One may go for 
days almost without meeting anyone, unless 
it he the folk from the neighbouring hamlets. 
No less suggestive of peace and quietness is 
the garden itsblifj In tlfei heat of summer, 
under tliCrfhade of overhanging tree^^jt is a 
very Imven of refit. Indeed, lau- a quiet life, 
this hpupC' on J’ellsiile, away frrjin beaten 




















December 28, 1907 


£32 GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


tracks, could scarcely be surpassed. On the 
garden walls, which to 6onie extent ward off 
the biting north-east winds, some few climb¬ 
ing Hoses ramble, and arches over the walks 
display them in all their loveliness. The 
arches are strongly made of stout Larch poles, 
and they need to be, for in the north country 
anything lightly constructed soon comes to 
grief in the storms of wind and rain. Even 
in the late autumn in a mild season it is not 
unusual to find old favourites like Gloire de 
Dijon and Caroline Testout lingering under 
‘the shelter of the warmest walls, disabusing 
one’s mind of the idea that Roses are deli¬ 
cate, and cannot stand a cold locality ; But 
good soil and close pruning, even in nn ex- 
poxsed situation, have been found to suit not 
a few Roses. In the wide borders herbaceous 
and many other hardy perennials are grown 
to a perfection that at first, to a stranger 
from the south, is somewhat perplexing, but 
the purity of the atmosphere, and the fact 
that the garden itself is screened by massive 
stone walls, account for much, and to this 
must be added that the owner of the place i« 
not daunted by a few failures. 

Under what is regarded as the most favour¬ 
able conditions, it is well known that Mrs. 
W. J. Grant, Crimson Rambler, and Carmine 
Pillar are Roses that grow rampant. Scarcely 
less vigorous in a locality where the winter 
is severely felt are the varieties named, with 
the advantage of a good wall and a winter 
mulch. Of border plants that do well in the 
north country mention must be made of 
Irises, Phloxes, Campanulas, Liliums, like 
candidum, Spiraeas, and Starworts. Pseonies 
must not be forgotten ; in fact, the huge 
clumps testified plainly that cold positions 
are not always the evil they are sometimes 
supposed to be. I venture to think that we 
do not appreciate to the full the immense 
advantage of a garden wall, especially like the 
one described, and all hough the spring in 
this moorland district is often delayed, and 
snow lies for long on the Fells, the keen, bit¬ 
ing air not infrequently making havoc of 
some things, there comes a day when till this 
disappears and the genial sunshine of April 
ushers in the flowers, and makes one forget 
the time of sleet and snow, or rain and frost, 
by a perfect galaxy of blossoms. 

Leahurst. 


FERNS* 

SEASONABLE NOTES ON FERNS. 
The w ork amongst Ferns at this season of the 
year is of a somewhat limited character in 
private gardens where entire houses cannot 
be set apart for their special culture. It is 
otherwise, of course, in the case of those who, 
like nurserymen, grow for sale only. It is 
not, for instance, every private gardener’s 
good fortune to have the best possible place 
lor growing that every day plant, the Maiden¬ 
hair Fern (Adiantuni cuneatum), which for a 
supply of cut fronds still holds the most 
prominent position amongst Ferns. Others, 
it is quite true, have the place to do it well, 
hut do not for some reason or other take ad¬ 
vantage of it as they should do. On the other 
hand, iu many private gardens we have 
noticed this fine old Fern in splendid con¬ 
dition, more so of late years than formerly. 
At one time it was usual to grow’ it under the 
shade of other plants. This ought never to 
be ; on the contrary, all the light possible, 
save in the hottest weather, should he ac¬ 
corded it, with abundant ventilation also. 
At this time a good supply of well-hardened 
fronds will in many establishments ho most 
desirable. Outdoor foliage now' getting 
scarce must have a substitute, and Ferns 
which have enjoyed an immunity of late can 
now he resorted to as a change. 

Supposing a supply of cut fronds is re¬ 
quired for the dinner-table at- night, these 
should not lx 1 left upon the plants until the 
last moment, hut lie picked early in the day 
and then he immersed in water until near the 
time of use. If needed in the morning, then 
cast them into a tank for a few hours over¬ 
night and afterwards roll them in damp 
Paper until the mornittg^or cover th»m with 
Moss, where this isf pleurfliul. rfl Linking 
fronds W the Maiden Vail Ims nopadvWhle, 


save in exceptional cases, to run over all the 
plants and take the best fronds only; the 
better plan is to keep to a few and use all 
that are fit thereon first. The stock of 
Maiden-hair Ferns should not now, or at any 
time, be crowded together, nor should a damp 
atmosphere be maintained. With a little 
warmth constantly in the pipes, and a little 
air on at all times, save when it is absolutely 
too cold, a buoyant atmosphere can be had, 
which has a hardening effect upon the fronds. 
A temperature now of from 50 degs. to 
55 degs. at night will be sufficient, the lower 
point being preferable to anything approach¬ 
ing 60 degs. ; during the day a rise of 10 degs. 
or so will be enough. The watering should 
now be in a measure limited ; sufficient to 
prevent flagging, but not enough to excite 
fresh growth. 


CREEPING FERNS. 

There are many purposes for which Ferns 
possessing a capacity for creeping or adher¬ 
ing to either walls, woodwork, or rustic-work 
may be turned to good account, not only in 
ferneries, but in other plant-houses as well. 
No house, in fact, need have a bare and, 
possibly, unsightly wall left uncovered. 
True, such walls will he of considerable 
variety and position, some dry, others moist 
or damp, some shaded, and some exposed. 
Suitable material for each may be chosen, 
the greater difficulty existing with the dry 
and exposed ones. For dry walls, which it is 
not convenient, or, perhaps, possible to cover 
with peat and Moss, so as to provide some¬ 
thing for the growths to cling to, recourse can 
be had to the more strictly speaking climbing 
Ferns, as represented by Lygodium scandens 
and L. japonicum. Of these tw r o, L. japoni- 
cum is the better for a temperate or mode¬ 
rately cool house, and L. scandens for a 
warmer one. L. japonicum, it should be 
noted, is more commonly know n in gardens as 
L. scandens; it is, however, a stronger 
grower than L. scandens, being for all prac¬ 
tical purposes the better one to grow. 
Strong plants of L. japonicum will push up 
several fronds early in the season; each of 
these should he trained up a slender string 
at intervals of about 4 inches. In this way 
a few plants will soon cover a good space of 
wall without any difficulty—such, for in¬ 
stance, as the back walls of vineries or Peach 
houses, from whence a supply for cutting 
can be drawn if needful. 

Other gocxl creeping Ferns for moderately 
dry and light walls are to be found amongst 
the Davallias, such, for instance, as D. dis- 
secta, D. elegans, and D. Griffithiana. For 
quite a dry wall, it would be better to choose 
Niphobolus lingua and some of the hardier 
of the creeping species of Polypodium, those 
with entire fronds being, on the whole, the 
hardier. For damp w alls in houses where the 
atmosphere is very moist, the choice is much 
more varied, one of the best being Arliantum 
capillus-Veneris w'here a close growth is de¬ 
sirable. If the walls be of brick, with mor¬ 
tar joints, this Fern will spread freely with¬ 
out any soil being used once a start has been 
made; it will thrive well with either a mode¬ 
rate amount of light or when shaded. The 
Davallias aforenamed can be used in similar 
positions also, and Davallia bullata can also 
be added. Another Fern that will cling 
freely to damp and unsightly walls is Nephro- 
diurn molle; so also w ill Pteris longifolia. 
Given a small amount, of soil, either behind 
a wire screen or in pockets, it is possible to 
secure more variety. In such cases Adian- 
turn cuneatum can be used, and that to a 
most practical purpose, for the supply of cut 
fronds, the better plan being a flat surface 
with wire-work, but with only the minimum 
of shade, so as to secure hardy growth. If 
a lofty wall has to be dealt with, where a 
few pockets can be provided to hold some 
small amount of soil for a start, there are 
the various forms of Nephrolepis, notably 
N. exaltata, N. tuberosa, and N. pectinata— 
the first-named being the strongest and the 
last the weakest grower. Once these Ferns 
get established, they will thrive surpris¬ 
ingly well, and extend rapidly. With a good 
extent of wall space at command, a fine fea¬ 
ture can be made of Platyceriuni alcicorne, 
which, amongst other Ferns, would stand out 


as decidedly distinct. Where it is possible 
to plant upon a ledge or set-off on a wall, a 
mass of Goniophlebium subaurieulatum will 
soon make a fine effect in a w arm house. In 
ferneries it is, of course, an easier matter to 
manage the plants on walls, but the varieties 
named will all do well with other plants. 

In many places some improvement could be 
carried out in the ways suggested with Ferns 
of this character. Bare walls are never de¬ 
sirable objects; but if they happen to be 
damp ones, all the better for experimenting 
with creeping Ferns. In no average case, 
when well established, will it he a difficult 
matter to afterwards manage them. Some 
additional care and attention are necessary 
at first, but this will be amply repaid at no 
distant period. Once a year, or oftener, a 
thorough cleaning out may be desirable to 
clear away scale and other insect pests. For 
those who may contemplate making some 
advance in the ways suggested, it is well to 
add that a start should he made early in the 
season. Not yet, of course, but it is not too 
soon to think the matter over Ami decide upon 
what course is to be adopted when the time 
comes. Meanwhile, the soil can be prepared 
or be laid by for the purpose, that being 
chosen which is full of fibre ; some Moss also 
will he needed. If the wall be such as can 
be easily fixed unto, some studs driven in 
and copper wire used will be a good method. 
Cork in many cases could be employed; it 
will last for several years. For this kind of 
work it is always better to depend upon 
small or young plants for a start. The rhi¬ 
zomes of the Davallias can he easily divided 
so as to make the most of them. ‘ F. 


ORCHID8. 

NOTES AND EE PLIES. 

Odontoglossum crlspum and Oncidium 
varicoBiim —In my very sinull collection of Orchids, 
t notice this season several which are showing two 
spikes of bloom to one growth. Jn one case there are 
one spike at the side, as usual, and one spike from 
the top, at the apex of the leaves. The Orchid re¬ 
ferred to is Odontoglossum crisp uni. Oncidium vari- 
cosuin lias done the same thing, and i have Cypri- 
pedium insigne with two blooms on one stalk. 'J lie 
Cypripediuin is a good variety, with twenty live 
I looms on one plant. Do these results prove good or 
doubtful culture? I am half afraid the very free 
blooming of the Odontoglots may weaken the plants. 
My greatest difficulty is keeping the plants cool 
enough in the summer. Will it be wise to put the 
cool Orchids in a frame at the foot of a north wall 
for next summer? The greenhouse referred to is a 
well-built modern structure, span-roofed, running 
north and south in an open situation.—C rispum. 

[The Orchids referred to appear to he 
thriving luxuriantly to produce two spikes 
of bloom on their respective leading growths, 
but it is wise to take the future into con¬ 
sideration, and reduce the number of spikes 
to maintain vigour in the plants. It will be 
noticed that on either side of the pseudo- 
bulbs one leaf is longer than the other. The 
best and strongest spikes invariably appear 
from the axil of the longest leaf; therefore, 
we would advise you to remove the one 
from the opposite side, also remove the 
spike which is at the apex of the pseudo- 
bulb. Undoubtedly, thousands of such plants 
have been ruined by over-flowering, and 
having to sustain for several weeks their 
many-flowered spikes. After the flowers have 
been open, say, about a week or ten days, the 
spikes may be cut, and, if stood in ’a cool 
place, with their ends in water, will retain 
their freshness for some time. The Cypri- 
pedium insigne also shows that the cultiva¬ 
tion is good, but there is little fear of injury 
to the plant by over-flowering. At the same 
time, it is advisable to remove the flowers 
after they have been open for several weeks, 
as, by so doing, the new growths, which are 
just beginning to push up, will be 
strengthened. As your plants appear to be 
thriving so satisfactorily, we would advise 
you to let them remain where they arc, anil 
continue the same kind of treatment as 
hitherto. There should be no difficulty in 
keeping the house sufficiently cool during the 
summer, if it is properly shaded, with plenty 
of atmospheric moisture and suitable ven¬ 
tilation. The cool-growing plants would he 
perfectly safe in a frame, as you suggest, 
especially-if their requirements are carefully 
attended to.] 



I)ECE.MBER 28, 1907 


Gardening illustrated. 


5S3 


VEGETABLES. 

PREPARATION OF SEED POTATOES. 
How often do we see the prospect* of the 
Potato crop ruined by badlv-prepared seed 
tubers, and I cannot too strongly urge the 
importance of attending well to the tubers, 
so that they should be in a perfectly satis¬ 
factory state by the time the planting season 
comes round, be this early or late. Although 
to a certain extent cultivation is mainly re¬ 
sponsible for the future state of the crop, 
vet with two plots planted side by side, one 
with the seed tubers well prepared and the 
other with weakened sets, through the pri¬ 
mary sprouts being lost and the tubers other¬ 
wise weakened by being allowed to lie 
huddled up together in a heap in a close and 
darkened structure, there would be a vast 
difference in the condition of the crops as 
they are dug. Not only is this the case in 
both the number and size of the tubers, but 
it affects earliness as well, and this to no 
small extent. With the early crops this is a 
matter of great importance. It is astonishing 
the difference this apparently small matter 
makes. With the sets well prepared, each 
having the primary sprouts about an inch in 
length, and also stout in proportion, the 
planting may be delayed until a safe period, 
the grower in the meantime knowing that, al¬ 
though planting is being delayed for a week 
or two, these well-prepared sets, when they 
are planted, soon make up any supposed lost 
time; in fact, with these well-prepared sets 
it is positively dangerous to be in too great 
a hurry in planting, as with a short spell of 
fine and bright weather directly afterwards, 
the growths are not long in making an ap- i 
pearanee. Having set. forth the advantages 
that, will accrue to the grower upon having 
well-prepared sets, it now remains to explain 
the best methods of retarding, so that the 
priinary sprout shalL be stout and intact at 
pUnting time. 

Very often it is owing to insufficient space 
that the preparation has to be delayed, and 
makeshift methods have to be resorted to to 
meet the desired end as much ns possible. 
The two evils that have to be guarded against 
arc darkness and allowing the tubers to lie 
huddled up together in a heap, both of which 
quickly cause h forced growth. Frost lias 
also to be guarded against, but beyond this 
the cooler the sets are kept, the better. The 
best sets are secured where the tubers can 
be laid out thinly, be well exposed to the 
light, and receive a free circulation of air. 
Much may be done to economise space by 
placing the tubers in cutting boxes, arrang¬ 
ing them on end, the thick end uppermost. 

I have packed these boxes one above the 
other, with pieces of wood between to let in 
light, and then as space can be spared laid 
the boxes out thinly. The convenience of 
this method is, that in case of frost the boxes 
can be packed up together in a small space 
and be covered un effectually to prevent the 
tubers receiving injury. Light, it must be 
remembered, is indispensable, and likely 
positions will suggest themselves according 
to the convenience at command. The best 
sets are those which can be wintered in a 
structure where the tem|>erature ranges at 
about 40 clegs., this ensuring a thorough rest. 
Cellars are the worst possible plaees for seed 
tubers, as these, besides being dark, are also 
unduly warm—conditions which will quickly 
cause a blanched and attenuated growth. 
Sets for forcing may be quickly advanced bv 
laying the tubers on leaf-soil in boxes, and 
keeping this moist in a warm structure. 

A. 


Early forced French Beans. The practice 
obtains in some large gardens of providing 
French Beans in winter, continuing by these 
means the autumn outdoor supply, and so 
connecting up the summer season. It is only, 
however, where there is ample heating power 
that the practice can be made profitable in 
the dull, short days of winter. From March 
until July there is not the same difficulty, be¬ 
cause then the davs are long, and the 6olar 
influence ample. The grower, therefore, hav¬ 
ing only limited means will be well advised 
to not undulv hasten the>earlv sowings. To 

Digitized by CjOOglC 


force in the dead of winter, elevated shelves, 
where every possible ray of light reaches the 
plants, and backed up by a high temperature, 
are all important, and even when such means 
are available, the produce is not abundant. 
There are selections of early-podding kinds 
to be obtained from most seedsmen now r . but 
a good stock of Osborne's Prolific, though an 
old one, still answers well. There are larger- 
podded varieties, which should be grown for 
succession. The low span-roofed market 
grower’s type of house is that which gives the 
best results in the early forcing of French 
Beans.— West Wilts. 


SEAKALE. 

While by market growers and high class 
gardeners the proper method of propagating 
and cultivating Seakale, also blanching the 
stems, is well understood, it is a matter for 
surprise, after all that has been written on 
the subject, to find how many seem to fail 
to understand or practise these better 
methods. Possibly much of this ignorance is 
largely due to the lack of reading gardening 
matter, though furnished so abundantly and 
so cheaply. Possibly it is due also to the 
fact that in the old garden calendars, still 
too much followed, the customary practice of 
making permanent beds or plantations of 
Seakale-roots, and blanching their crown 
growths by the aid of pots and masses of 
long dung and leaves, or burying the crowns 
in heaps of ashes or soil, is regarded 
as the proper way. Probably the best 
course in starting Seakale culture in the 
better way is to sow seed, because, whether 
any stock constantly propagated by means of 
root-cuttings deteriorates or not, certainly 
it is wise for a beginner to start with a seed- 
raised and, of course, vigorous stock. To 
get in that way good results, have a breadth 
of ground—so much as can be allotted to 
Sealialo in any garden—well trenched and 
manured during the winter. It will be best, 
in this case, to trench the ground 2 feet in 
depth, now or soon, giving it in the process 
liberal dressings of basic slag and soot. 
Later, advantage may be taken of sharp 
frost to wheel on to it a good coat of short, 
half decayed animal manure, and spread it 
about, then later, after a thaw, to fork it 
well in. So prepared, the ground is ready to 
sow' in April. The middle of the month is a 
good time for that purpose. Seed is cheap, 
and may be purchased at any time ready for 
the sowing. It is advisable to have ready 
everything needed for a successful sowing 
when the proper time arrives. Drills should 
be drawn 20 inches apart and 3 inches deep. 
The seeds should be sown thinly nlong the 
rows, so that there is no waste, then well 
covered up with fine soil. Growth follows 
in about four weeks, and when all the seed¬ 
lings are well up, there should follow a rigid 
thinning of the young plants to 10 inches 
apart in the row's. It is not the roots which 
need so much room, but the leafage, which is 
large and thick. The dimensions of the roots 
and crowns in the following autumn depend 
chiefly on the strength of the leafage. During 
the summer, and before the leaf-growth be¬ 
comes too large, one or two light sprinklings 
of coarse salt between the rows, and w’ell 
hoed in, do much good; such a dressing is 
also cheap. Once the ground is densely 
covered with leaves, weeds have no chance. 
Should there be, whilst the plants are in the 
seedling stage, any blanks in the row’s, it is 
quite easy to lift from where the seedlings 
are too numerous a few and to dibble them 
carefully in to fill the void. A special rea¬ 
son in Seakale culture for not burying the 
manure dressing too deep is that it en¬ 
courages the production of side-roots from 
the main or vertical root-stems, nnd these 
side-rcots furnish, ns cuttings in the follow 
ing w inter, the best possible means of propa¬ 
gation. Seedling plants, ns a rule, retain 
their leafage rather later than do plants from 
root-cuttings, hence it may be well into De¬ 
cember before lifting takes place. That 
should be done by opening a 2-feet trench at 
one end of the ground, and thus grubbing 
out every root carefully, that none be broken. 
When a quantity is thus got out, each one 
should have its side-roots, or, if long, lower 
tap-roots, cut off close to the main root. All 


these trimmings must be laid one way, so 
that the portions from next the main'root 
be at the top or uppermost. The main or 
trimmed roots, with their crow’ns, can be 
laid in thickly in row's a few inches apart, 
the crown just showing. Ho placed, any 
needed to be put into warmth, or in a 
dark place to be blanched, can be got at at 
any moment. If hard frosts set in, a little 
straw litter, Fern, or leaves, laid over the 
crowns, enable roots to be lifted easily. 

The roots severed from the main' ones 
should next be cut into lengths of about 
5 inches, and, with their upper ends all even, 
be stood thickly into upright drills, cut down 
with a spade, their tops being just covered 
with soil ; all others obtained by lifting all 
the roots can be similarly treated. Those 
cutting* will, thus laid in, callus over, 
both top and bottom, and, when ready, can 
be planted out into good trenched and 
manured ground, in rows, as advised for 
secd-sow’ing, being, in this case, dibbled into 
holes just deep enough to receive them. 
Growth soon follows. Later, all growths or 
crowns should be thinned out to one only on 
each root-cutting. Planting cuttings may be 
done at the end of March. D. 


ONIONS. 

Tiieiie can bo no doubt, could we but over¬ 
come the objection felt to the Onion’s strong 
taste and perfume, and would grow it far 
more largely, and cook it wisely, that we have 
in it a very nourishing article of diet. No 
other vegetable has that strong, pungent 
flavour or smell which characterises the 
Onion. This defect in a valuable bulb call 
be much modified, and is so by cultivation. 
The modern method of producing very large 
bulbs tends to the production of Onions that 
arc, as compared with ordinary bulbs from a 
spring outdoor sowing, mild and pleasant. 
Could the public but. realise what very re¬ 
freshing and supporting diet stewed or baked 
large Onions furnished, they would be much 
more widely consumed than is now the ca: o. 
Tripoli and Rucca Onions are always mild 
flavoured, but. keep so short a time. The 
Spanish and Portugal Onions purchased from 
shops are also mild, because so rapidly grown 
in warm and well-watered climates and soils. 
Growers of large Onion bulbs will soon be 
making their customary sowings under gla .. 
Home do eo in December, others in January. 
Where seed is not home saved— and many 
growers do save their own from specially 
selected bulbs—it is well to get. seed from the 
seedsman in good time, and thus bo able to 
sow when it is convenient so to do. Two or 
three shallow 10-inch pans, clean, well 
drained, then filled with good fine soil, en¬ 
able at least one hundred plants to be raided 
in each. Because of their erect form. Onion- 
plants need little room, and if in sowing seed 
in the pans care be taken to disperse it 
singly and very evenly, the seedlings get 
ample room, and may remain in the pans, if 
well exposed to light and air, until they are 
from 4 inches to 5 inches in height. The next 
process is pricking these seedlings into shal¬ 
low' boxes, also filled with good, light soil, 
one half of which may lie leaf-mould, well 
decayed. The plants should be lifted, from 
the seed pans with care, to preserve the roots, 
then dibbled out into the boxes 2 inches 
apart, nnd later occasionally watered, and 
kept in full light, near the glass. If the tem¬ 
perature be moderate, growth is robust if 
slow, the plants acquiring stout, stiff stems, 
which keep them erect. At Hie end of March 
the boxes may be stood in a cool frame, 
where the plants will he gradually hardened, 
and by the end of April bo in fine condition 
to transplant into the ojien ground, using a 
hand trowel for that purpose. Growers differ 
as to the width of the rows apart. Some, 
not desiring large bulbs, are content to have 
them 15 inches, others prefer 18 inches or 
20 inches apart, putting the plants out from 
9 inches to 14 inches apart in the rows. Very 
fine bulbs—those weighing from 2 lb. to 3 lb. 
—need, to be produced, not only the wider dis¬ 
tances, but the ground must, to grow them, 
have been deeply trenched, have had in the 
trenching process worke<| into it a good dress¬ 
ing of manure, buried deep, and also have 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


584 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


December 28, 1907 


had n later dressing forked into the surface 
soil, with some bone-flour and soot. So 
treated, the weight of food obtained from an 
area of but a few rods of ground is remark¬ 
able. Liberal waterings with weak liquid- 
manure during the growing season arc most 
helpful. Ground thus specially treated will 
carry a fine crop of Peas or Beans the Follow¬ 
ing year without additional manuring. 

GARDEN WORK. 

Conservatory. A few well-furnished bas¬ 
kets are very desirable now. especially i» 
lofty houses, and these, can easily be impro¬ 
vised. To make a good show, the baskets 
should not he less than Id inches across, ami 
some, of course, may be larger. Begonias 
and Asparagus Sprongcri make a pretty ar¬ 
rangement, and there are other combinations 
that will occur to anyone who thinks the 
matter over, and is anxious to create new 
features. As the baskets will be hidden by 
the drapery, home-made articles will do. 

Tn most gardens a handy mail can be found 
that will do such jobs well enough for the 
purpose. There should he no difficulty in 
a well-appointed garden in having plenty.of 
flowers now, as so much can be done with 
retarded things, especially Lilies, Spiraeas, 
and deciduous Azaleas; but even without 
these, there are Indian Azaleas in flower 
now. Plants that were encouraged to make 
their growth early, then ripened in a cool 
house, and finished outside, are now ill 
flower. Bulbs also are now in bloom where 
they were potted early in August. It is of 
no use trying to force things into bloom 
which have not been prepared during the 
previous year for the work. There are still 
Chrysanthemums in variety, and good-sized 
bushes of Deutzias are now bursting into 
bloom. Where free-growing Tea or Noisette 
Roses are planted in a good border, they 
will never be without some flowers, where 
permitted to grow freely. Some of the early- 
flowering Acacias, such as A. platyptera and 
A. Drummondi, arc showing colour, and 
some of the long sprays may he useful for 
cutting. Arum Lilies will be coming in 
now, and Tree-Carnations are among the 
most lovely things one can grow, and the 
American varieties should be included. 

Forcing house.- -There will be a busy time 
in this house, as it. will be advisable to sow a 
few Cucumber and Melon seeds, to plant in 
warm-houses early in the New' Year. To¬ 
mato seeds oT a good early variety should 
also be sown. Most growers have their 
favourite variety. Sunrise is a good setter, 
and will not disappoint. Among old 
varieties Ham Green Favourite and Brooks’ 
Freedom are good. The result, however, is 
largely dependent upon suitable conditions 
sweet, open soil, and a temperature at night 
not under GO degs., with ventilation when¬ 
ever the weather is suitable. As no house 
is altogether air-tight, we need not waste 
fuel for the purpose of giving air on 
cold, dull days. It is when the sun shines 
and the air is soft and genial that, air should 
be admitted freely. Any plant from which 
cuttings are wanted should lie placed in 
heat to cause young shoots to break away, 
as these root freely in a brisk bottom heat. 
Rose cuttings taken from plants under glass 
will strike freely during the next month, 
and Roses may be grafted on Brier-roots if 
there is a warm bed to plunge them in. 
Keep close till the buds start. Dormant 

wood is generally used now, to be shaded if 
the sun breaks out. The atmospheric mois¬ 
ture should lie in proportion to temperature. 

Forcing Lily of the Valley and bulbs. 
Those wlu» arc still depending upon retarded 
crowns do not want a very high temperature: 
but recently imported crowns require a good 
deal of warmth to move them. A close, 
frame, with the pots plunged in the bed, the 
frames b°ing matted up till some progress has 
been made, will do. Years ago, when we grew 
our own crowns, we have forced Lily of the 
Valley rather largely in hotbeds made up 
with leaves ami .stable manure. Keep dark at 
first till the spikes have made some growth, 
and then gradually admit light and air. 
They can be brought on wherever there is a 
brisk temperature. 


e. Ten or twebre crowns 

Google 


may be placed in a 5-inch pot, plunged in 
warmth, or stood on a board on the hot- 
water pipes, each pot covered with an in¬ 
verted pot of the same size, till spikes and 
foliage are several inches in height. If the 
temperature is very high at first, the spikes 
will start before the foliage. Keep the 
crowns exposed outside till required for 
starting. 

Figs in pots. —No fruit submits to forcing 
ill pots better than the Fig, and the pots need 
not be very large in proportion to the size 
of the tree or bush. Figs submit to root- 
pruning when the plants are old. and have 
exhausted the soil in the pots. It is true, 
severe root-priming may, if done late, en¬ 
danger the first crop; hut there will he com¬ 
pensation in the second, which will he abun¬ 
dant. Figs in puls are very accommodating; 
they will thrive,anywhere if there is warmth, 
ami there is not the same necessity to begin 
with a low temperature and lead up quietly 
to the maximum as with most fruits. Of 
course, where the final crop is made the prin¬ 
cipal one, then the gradual process is best. 
Disbudding is necessary early in the growth, 
and all leading shoots should be stopped 
when five leaves have been made by crush¬ 
ing the terminal bud between the finger and 
thumb. Use the syringe freely, but never 
use cold water in syringing or watering. 
Liquid-manure may be given freely when the 
roots have filled the pot, and later zinc 
collars may be placed inside the rim of the 
pot, and the space created filled with loam 
and manure. The roots will soon work up 
into it. 

Pines.- The fruiting house may have a 
night temperature of Go degs. to 70 degs. 
Atmospheric moisture may lx; supplied by 
damping paths, but ripe fruits or plants in 
blossom should not lx j syringed. A little air 
should be given on fine, sunny days. The 
watering must be in careful hands, and one 
man should have sole charge. Liquid- 
manure, warm, may be given at every water¬ 
ing to plants swelling fruits. Successions 
should be coming on quietly for the present. 
This will make the older plants show fruit 
when the days lengthen, and a little more 
heat is given. Sluggish fruiters may be in¬ 
duced to show by lifting out. of the plunging 
bed for a few ‘days. This is better than 
starving the plants by drought, as the latter 
plan may injure the colour. 

Plants in the house. -Use the sponge 
when necessary to keep the foliage clean, 
but a soft dry duster may do for Palms and 
other large-leaved plants. Very little water 
is required by plants in cold rooms, but 
w hen a plant requires water, do it effectually, 
and moisten all the soil. Do not leave water 
standing in vases or saucers. 

Outdoor garden. —The weather still con¬ 
tinues open and mild, and those who have 
planting to do may hasten the work. The 
preparation of sites for choice things may 
also be done, so as to he ready for planting 
in spring. Land that is trenched and pre¬ 
pared now will not he in a condition for 
planting such things as Roses or herbaceous 
plants till it lias bad some time to settle. 
Wo may consolidate the earth bv treading it ; 
but it is belter, if time permit*, to let it 
settle naturally. Land which has been 
trenehed is generally in a suitable slate for 
planting in February, although a good deal 
of planting is successfully done between 
February and April. April is a very suit¬ 
able month for planting Hollies and other 
evergreens. The mistake many people make 
is, when they plant anything, they forget all 
about it, and death comes from want of at¬ 
tention. Site's may bo prepared now for 
Pseonies, both the Moutan and hcrbaeeoua 
varieties. The tendency now is to group 
everything, ami there is some advantage in 
this‘as regards effectiveness, and something 
more might be done round the margin of the 
lawn. Groups of Brooms are very effective, 
as are also masses of Lavender, and Rose¬ 
mary and Tamarix make handsome and grace¬ 
ful patches on the lawn. 

Fruit garden. —The wood of Figs does 
not appear to be so well ripened this season, 
and if we have severe frost, it will he wise 
to afford some shelter in cold districts. I 
never found it necessary to. protect Figs in 
the south, but I* was caught napping one 


severe winter after moving to the Midlands. 
Of course, something depends upon the con¬ 
dition of the wood. If the wood is unripe, 
some protection after the first night’s frost is 
desirable, for the person who loses a crop 
through neglect may have an unpleasant 
time. The usual course is to unnail some 
of the outlying branches, draw them to¬ 
gether. and hang a mat over them or cover 
with evergreen branches. Strawberries in 
pots, intended for forcing, should be under 
cover, sheltered from heavy rains. If there 
are spare frames, plunge the pots in leaves 
or ashes. The simplest, way, as there is 
plenty of leaves now, is to thrust a few be¬ 
tween the pots. When plunged, there is less 
danger of the frost breaking the puts, and the 
moisture is retained in thesoil. Utidersuitahle 
conditions, the plants get a more complete 
rest in a low temperature, and this applies 
to all fruiting plants. Orchard-house trees 
in pots should soon be under cover now. If 
frost comes, and the trees are outside, shelter 
the pots with Bracken or litter. 

Vegetable garden.— The forcing gardener 
will be busy now. Asparagus. Seakale. Rhu¬ 
barb, Potatoes, Lettuces, Chicory, Mush¬ 
rooms, are all influenced by temperature, and 
where ample means are provided, these will 
now be in evidence. Green Mint, Tarragon, 
and Chervil are also required in most well- 
appointed establishments. In country dis¬ 
tricts, where leaves are plentiful, a good deal 
of forcing can be done cheaply. Fuel is 
dear, and where artificial heat has to be pro¬ 
vided, the expense soon mounts up. French 
Beans require a temperature of GO degs. to 
65 degs., but these are often grown in other 
houses in connection with other crops 
coining on. Tomatoes are slow' in growth 
now, but they are still to be had from the 
warm house.* For winter supply, the crons 
should be set by the end of October. After¬ 
wards the flowers do not set well, and the 
crop will be small till spring conies. All 
vacant land should be trenched, ridged, or 
dug up roughly, and exposed to the weather. 
Heavv land may be manured now, but light 
land should wait. It is an advantage to 
work the manure into compost if it cannot 
be dug in at once, as there is less waste. 
Earth in some form absorbs escaping am¬ 
monia and prevents waste, and if fermenta¬ 
tion takes place, the seeds of weeds will he 
killed. E. Hobday. 


THE COMING WEEK’S WORK. 

Extracts from a Garden Diary. 

Dcecmlnr 3*>th .— There is still a good deal 
to do among the fruit-trees. Pruning is still 
in progress, and the training of the trees 
o:i walls and espaliers is receiving attention. 
In dealing with old. Pear-trees, the spurs, 
where crowded, have been thinned, to give 
the foliage more room to develop. In manur¬ 
ing, special, attention is given to trees on the 
Paradise or other dwarf stocks, such as the 
Quince for Pears. 

December 31st .—Some extension of the 
alpine garden has become necessary to make 
a site for new and choice things. The situa¬ 
tion for the most part is open hut sheltered, 
and in the arrangement of the stones the 
chief thing aimed at is to fit the spot for the 
plants to thrive in, though the picturesque is 
not altogether ignored. The planting will 
be delayed till April. Tlie stakes of stan¬ 
dard Roses have been examined, and, where 
required, renewed. 

January 1st, When bad weather 

coines, work will be found for all hands 
under glass. Inside painting of forcing or 
other houses can be done by handy labourers, 
and it is convenient to have a man about a 
place that can put in a few squares of glass 
or repair or point a brick wall. Slakes and 
labels are now so cheap that it hardly pays 
to make them at home. VYo have had men 
that could make the supply of Birch-brooms 
in winter. 

January 2nd.—\ rough plan has hepn 
made of the kitchen garden, with the crop¬ 
ping arranged for the season. In manuring, 
the ground can be fitted for the crops, and. 
although it mnv. under a system of close 
cropping, be difficult to arrange for the 
proper rotation of crops, still, wo can manage 
that green crops get a change. Lime is used 


INC 


UR! 


NA-CHA 


N 



December 2S, 1907 


G. IRDEjYIjVG ILL USTRATED. 


085 


freely, and for Carrots and Onions vaporite 
will be used. 

January 3rd .—The ground has be'ui 
trenched and manured for Onions. Seakale. 
and Asparagus, and will be left rough till 
February, and then the Onion ground will 
have a further top dressing. A large part 
of our Onions wilL be. sown almost imme¬ 
diately in boxes under glass, to be hardened 
off and planted out early in April. We get a 
heavier and better ripened crop in this way, 
and really the work is not much. 

January Jth .—Lawns are rolled after rain 
or frost. Weakly lawns are top dressed 
with lawn-manure. Superphosphates are 
good for most Grasses, and the effect is last¬ 
ing. The effect of a dressing of basic slag 
will remain several years. There are always 
some desirable changes to make in the ar¬ 
rangement of plants in the conservatory, ami 
new or fresh plants are introduced iit the 
same time. 


UTILISATION OF POND MUD. 
Several of the old agricultural writers have 
advocated the utilisation of pond mud, and. 
as a writer in “British Husbandry” (1837) 
observes: “The mud from ponds, when they 
are cleaned out, has always been an object of 
attention to farmers.” The composition of 
the sediment may vary considerably, as will 
be seen from analyses given below, and is 
naturally dependent on the character of the 
pond. Where a pond is placed at the lower 
part of a field, it is likely to receive, after 
rain, surface washings which may be rich in 
manure. If, however, the pond contains 
springs, the sediment may be of little or no 
value. 

Pond mud lias proved valuable at the Royal 
Botanic Gardens, Kew, where the deposit 
from the bottom of the lake has been used 
for some years past for general gardening 
purposes, ns a dressing for the lawns, and 
also as a mulch for the beds, borders, and 
trees. It has also been used for such pot- 
grown plants as Chrysanthemums, Dahlias, 
Fuchsias, Pelargoniums, and other gross 
feeders. The best examples of Calnnthe and 
Phaius (Orchids) ever grown at Kew were 
planted in this mud. It is also an excellent 
soil for vegetables. As an example of how 
freely it may be used for trees, mention may 
be made of a mulch, 4 inches thick, which 
was placed last winter about the large Horse- 
Chestnut near the Thames; the effect of this 
on the henlth of the tree is already most 
marked. The only plants for which*it has 
not been found suitable arc Ericaceae and 
peat-loving plants generally. Probably, this 
is due to the presence of calcium carbonate 
in the Thames water, from which the Kew 
lake is fed. and also to the shells of various 
molluscs which are abundant in the lake. 
The only harm that might possibly result 
from the use of this mud would arise if it 
were allowed to lie ns a cake, so that air was 
excluded from the roots. The mud at Kew 
is the silt from the Thames water, and con¬ 
tains decomposed vegetable matter from the 
surrounding trees, etc. When first taken out 
it has almost the consistence of clay, and in 
this condition is unsuitable for use. The 
practice at Kew is to drain off the water 
from the lake, and when the mud can be cut 
with spades it is carried in barrows on to 
the banks, where it is allowed to lie and drain 
until it can he broken up easily. It is then 
distributed over the lawns, woods, beds, etc., 
where, under the influence of weather, it soon 
breaks down. If used on bods or borders, it 
is forked over, and mixed with the other soil 
soon after it has boon put on. For lawns it 
is used in the proportion of about twenty 
loads to the acre, it is then chain harrowed 
and raked, and after that it soon works down 
below the Grass. When the lake was first 
cleaned out in 1892 to 1894, the mud was 
found to be 5 feet deep in some pnrts, and 
altogether some thousands of loads were 
removed. 

An analysis has been made of the mud 
taken from the Kew lake, and also of some 
pond mud from Nottinghamshire. The 
sample from Kew contained 45.15 per cent, 
of moisture, and that from Nottinghamshire 
contained 78.81 per centric in order towsDable 

Digitized by O' >5lC 


them to be compared, the results are given in 
the following table free of moisture: — 


- 

Sample 
from Kew. 

Sample 
from Notts. 

Organic matter* and loss on 

Per cent. 

Per cent. 

healing- .. 

11.30 

27.71 

Oxide of iron and aluminium.. 

8.17 

HU5 

Lime . 

12 01 

7.79 

Magnesia, alkalies, &e. „ 

0.97 

} 7 - 05 

Carbonic acid. 

8.85 

Phosphoric acid. 

0.27 

0.32 

Insoluble siliceous matter 

68.40 

16.08 

Total .. 

100 

100 

‘Containing nitrogen .. 

0.439 

0.862 

Final to ammonia 

0.533 



It will be seen that the Kew sample in its 
dry state had less than half the quantity of 
vegetable matter (and nitrogen derived there¬ 
from) contained in the other. It had, how¬ 
ever, more lime and nearly as much phos¬ 
phoric acid. The fact that the one sample 
contained so much less water than the other 
would make the Kew sample in its natural 
state the richer of the two. The quantity of 
lime would make it a useful material for any 
land where lime is needed. 

Two other samples of mud from ponds in 
Kent are referred to in the fifth report of 
the Analytical Laboratory at the South- 
Eastern Agricultural College, Wye. Sample 
A was from a pond which had not been 
“miulded” since 1836. and as neither ditches 
nor drains run into it, the water supply has 
been kept up only by percolation through the 
soil, which is described as a sandy clay. For 
many years the pond had, throughout the 
summer, been a mass of weeds mainly silk 
weed and Nymphiea alba. The analysis 
showed this mud to contain 23.3 per cent, of 
water, 7.8 per cent, of organic matter, and 
.183 per cent, of nitrogen. Sample 13 w ? as 
from an adjacent pond into which a little 
ditch and scveraL drains run. It was ex¬ 
pected that the mud would be very rich, and 
it w r as used as a dressing for Hops. Analysis 
showed, however, that nuid was little, if any, 
richer than the soil of the Hop garden, and 
it had not, therefore, much value as a fer¬ 
tiliser. It is mentioned in the report that 
“The fermentation processes going on at the 
bottom of a pond are very complete, organic 
matter is broken up into carbonic acid, marsh 
gas and hydrogen, and free nitrogen is, prob¬ 
ably, liberated also. Resistant forms of 
organic matter would survive, but these have 
little value as manure.” The analysis showed 
this sample to contain 52.2 per cent, of water, 
7.3 per cent., of organic matter, and .175 per 
cent, of nitrogen. Generally speaking, the 
effect of such material is as much a physical 
or mechanical one as a chemical one, and, if 
used on land of lighter and drier texture, 
would help to improve it. On heavy land, 
on the other hand, it might not be so success¬ 
ful. It should do very well as a top-dressing for 
Grass .—Journal of the Hoard of Agriculture. 


BOOKS. 

“ FLANTONS DES ARBRES. * 
Under the above suggestive heading M. 
Viaud-Bruant writes with the authority of an 
adept in planting and gardening, and in the 
spirit of a philosopher. 

Writing for Frenchmen, his words may 
have a wider application. He addresses him¬ 
self to the patriotism of his readers. The 
book is a call to plant—plant trees, trees that 
have an industrial value, ami fruit-trees. 
Plant the waste lands, the poor lands, the 
commons, the roadsides, the hedgerows. It 
is the host investment for the future. The 
finest Wheat grows in fields that have fruit- 
trees scattered over them. Plant the road¬ 
sides with fruit-trees that do not mind poor 
soils -such trees us the Mahaleh Cherry, 
which is the best distillers’ Cherry, and the 
Certeau Pear, which is fertile, and a tree of 
fine form, and whose fruit makes excellent 
perry, and is not liable to windfall. 


* “ Plantons des Arbres : Mang;eons des Fruits.'' By 
G. Viaud-Bruant. Socitftb Fran<;aise d'Impriinerie et de 
Libraire, 6 and 8, rue Henri-Ondin. 


The author believes in the social and 
economic importance of the small holding, 
secure against disturbance and guarded by 
legislation, as a means of attaching the rural 
populations to the soil. He rightly observes 
there are treasures of health, virtue, and 
happiness in the possession of a garden plot, 
which should be available for all workers who 
are thrifty and have foresight. In the pre¬ 
sent condition of agriculture he says “a new 
evolution is enjoined. The culture of corn 
must, be confined to the best soils, and the 
rest must- be converted into meadow and 
market garden, and tree cultures.” Vege¬ 
table as a field crop are more remunera¬ 
tive than simple agriculture. Ilis argument 
is to make the most of your own natural re¬ 
sources, and rely as little as possible on 
foreign sources for your food supply. It is 
well to be taught. The economic situation 
of England, he says, is not an enviable one. 
Since 1871 the progressive neglect of agricul¬ 
ture has cost this country upwards of six 
milliards of francs (or £240,000.000) for food 
supplied from foreign sources. In case of 
war the price of provisions would be tripled 
from the "commencement of hostilities. The 
author give^ the names of the best, trees 
and fruits to cultivate, and their uses, and 
the soils that suit them best. He says a grekt 
deal in favour of the Robinia pseudo-Acacia, 
or Acacia, as it is usually, but wrongly, 
called. The wood of the tree, he tells us, is 
in no way inferior to the Oak, Elm, and 
Beech, and is superior to them for (1) quick 
growth ; (2) resistance to cold : (3) abundant 
production; (4) easy culture in all soils; (5) 
the uses and density of its wood. This 
tree, somewhat neglected in our day, has a 
further use in that its young leaves make 
good forage for cattle. 

Lastly, he has a word to say on food re¬ 
form. “From the point of view of health, 
the true regimen consists in being fruitarian 
in the morning, mildly carnivorous at noon, 
and vegetarian in the evening. Would you 
live to a hundred? Then sleep eight hours 
with window open. Take a tepid hath every 
morning. Live mostly on fruit. Drink plenty 
of cold water. Avoid alcohol.” 


LAW AND CUSTOM. 

Tenant and greenhouses (Ifcjdyto II. 11.). 
—You fail to give me the very information 
which would enable me to answer your ques¬ 
tion satisfactorily. You say that you built 
the greenhouses “on agreed terms as to 
rent.” You should have stated what those; 
terms were. If the agreement was that the 
letting of the greenhouses was to be a sepa¬ 
rate letting entirely, beginning and ending at 
a different time from that, at which the other 
lease was running, then it may be that there 
will be complications; but. unless that was so 
specifically arranged, it sccni6 to me that the 
building of the greenhouses and the increase 
of the other rent in consideration of such 
building would make no difference whatever, 
lint, that the later arrangement is merely to 
bo grafted on to the former, so that when tin; 
plantation is given up or the lease thereof for¬ 
feited, the tenancy »»f the greenhouses would 
go as well. Any other arrangement would be 
absurd. Obviously there would lx; no right 
of access to the greenhouses if the rest of the 
property w’ere vacated. Barrister. 


BIRDS. 


Bird dying (Lady 11 .).—Your bird ex¬ 
hibited practically the same features as tho 
one examined some little time ago. except 
that it was in excellent condition. We arc 
of the opinion that the trouble is due in a 
great measure to the very damp and change¬ 
able weather encountered this autumn, 
causing the cold caught by your fresh pur¬ 
chases to pass right through all your stock. 
Treat- a3 before advised, and directly dry 
weather comes, the trouble will cease, wo 
believe. Sea sand is excellent for the floor 
of the cage, and you are treating properly.— 
J. T. Bird. 


Parrot ailing (Wlrrafl ).—Your bird ap¬ 
pears to be suffering from surfeit-, the result 

E . - (LLINul'j 


URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




686 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


i)K<jE\fDKn 28, t'JQl 


of injudicious feeding and the lack of atten¬ 
tion to the detail of cleanliness. Atloitlt the 
affected part daily with a little vrtseline, first 
bathing well with Spring wtitef, ill which a 
little salt, a tablespoonful to half a pint of 
water, has been dissolved, wiping ouito dry 
before applying tin* vaseline. Continue this 
treatment for a few days after the symptorhs 
disappear. Let the bird have all the watdr it 
wants, and sec that the supply is above sus¬ 
picion. and keep the cage, the floor, and all 
utensils scrupulously clean. Try the bird 
with some good brand of prepared parrot 
food, and give plenty of sound, ripe fruit. 
It will eat fruit, probably, without difficulty, 
and you may also try it with Nuts, sweet bis¬ 
cuit, and Maize boiled in milk, and given 
fresh hut cold. I)o not allow it table scraps, 
and fix a piece of soft wood in the cage for 
it to exercise its beak upon. You will soon 
get it right if you persevere, but you should 
drop the whisky and give a cod liver oil cap¬ 
sule or two if the cold still remains.—J. T. 
Bird. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

Questions. -Queries and answers are inserted in 
Carpus iso free of charge if corresjiondents follow these 
rule* All communications should be clearly and concisely 
Written on one- side of the paper only, and addressed to 
the Kditor of Gardening, 17, Fumival-strcct, Ilolbom, 
London, E.C. Letters on business should lye sent to the 
Publisher. The name and address of the sender are 
required in addition to any designation he may desire to 
be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, 
each should be on a sejmrate piece of paper, atul not more 
than three queries should be sent at a time. Corresjyon- 
dents should bear in mind that, as Gardening has to be 
sent to press some time in advance of date, queries cannot 
always lye replied to in the issue immediately following 
the receipt of their communication. Wc do not reply to 
queries by post. 

Naming: fruit. —Readers who desire our help in 
naming fruit should bear in mitid that several sjyecimens 
in different stages of colour and size of the same kind 
greatly assist in its determination. We have received from 
several correspondents single specimens of fruits for 
naming, these in many cases being unripe and other¬ 
wise poor. The differences between varieties of fruits are 
in many cases so trifling that it is necessary that three 
Specimens of each kind should be sent. Wc can undertake 
to name only four varieties at a tunc, and these only when 
the above directions are observed. 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

Cinerarias failing <•/. .'/. MM.- Your Cineraria- 
plants are probably suffering from green fly. which 
causes the leaves to curl; or they may be in too cold 
a place, and suffering from damp. If greenfly is the 
cause, fumigation is necessary, and must l>c done 
c arefully at. this weapon, in several small doses rather 
than a strong dose at one time. In any ease, remove 
the plants now to a drier place, but not to heat. 

Early Chrysanthemum Rabble Burns (E. 
Clarke). This outdoor Chrysanthemum is not in the 
least delicate, and for border culture is ideal. This 
is a sport from Mine. Marie Mutwth The colour of 
R;U>hic Burns is described by some as cerise-pink and 
by others as salmon-pink. It is really a mixture of 
these colours, and in its early stages the colour is 
very pretty. With age the colour becomes paler. 

Wireworm in Carnation-beds ( I. i’. J.).— The 
only thine you eati do is to cease growing the Carna¬ 
tions in the same spot, and transfer them to another 
part, of the garden. When the Carnations have been 
moved, give a good dressing of gas-lime and let the 
ground lie fallow for a year. During the winter fork 
over the ground so as to get the gas-Jimo well in¬ 
corporated with the soil. You might try what an 
application of vaporite will do. 

Planting a herbaceous border (A. B.).— So 
long as the weather is open you may safely set out 
your herbaceous plants and also plant the Clematis. 
Before, however, you plant the Clematis against the 
Apple-tree you had better clear out any worn-out. 
soil and replace it with fresh. . There is no such book 
as you inquire about, but, we think, Hobday's “ Villa 
Gardening," which you can get through your book¬ 
seller, will answer your purpose. 

Keeping Coleus in winter (.V.).—You cannot 
keep Coleuses safely through the winter in a tempera¬ 
ture much below 60 deg*., and if kept up to 70 degs. 
so much the better. It is somewhat singular that 
Coleuses grow freely and continue luxuriant in the 
open air in the South of England, even when the 
temperature is frequently below 50 dogs., from June 
to »ml of September; blit in winter they soon die off 
if the temperature is not kept up to 00 degs. 

Myrtle leaves dirty (F. M .).—The Myrtle leaves 
sent were not themselves attacked by any insects; 
the sticky, black substance on the leaves seems to 
be the substance that falls from other plants when 
they are badly affected with green-fly. No doubt 
this is the case in the present instance The plants 
hi the conservatory should he fumigated lightly and 
frequently, all decaying foliage should be removed, 
and the plants should have as much space as possible 
and plenty of ventilation whenever the weather will 
allow of it. 

Spiraeas for forcing <•/-).— Much depends upon 
the strength of >our plants for forcing, as if im¬ 
ported they force more easily, it would be well to 
place them in a frame or hou.-e at a temperature of 
.ij decs, tc tuj digs, early in January, mid mow on 
quietly. By this mcamt-^pueh strongciw growth is 

Digitized by CjOOglC 


secured. Give more warmth, if necessary, with plenty 
of moisture ns the growth increases. If there are no 
means to force in the wav advised, place in heat 
early in February, and grow oh rapidly, keeping the 
plant* near the light to create a sturdy growth. 

Treatment of Gloriosas (Q. A/.). —Give youf* 
plants very little watef, find when the foliage has 
decayed keep them dry in the pots in a temperature 
of 60 degs. The plants hate a conn ot btilu, rind 
require little moisture during their resting period. 
Some large growers shuke the bulbs out and winter 
in soil or fibre Iff the stove, but for safety, with 
young plants it is best to leave them in the old soil, 
which must be kept dry. Shake out in March, repot 
into good soil, half loam, peat, and broken charcoal, 
with good drainage. Place the plants In a Waffner 
temperature or near the pipes to start into growth. 
Give manure when the pots are full of roots during 
growth. 

Gardenias In bad condition (7\ L .).~Your 
Gardenia leaves are clean and not covered in any way 
by insect pests, and your treatment, as previously de¬ 
scribed was good. We should think the plants "have 
received a cheek in some way to cause leaf dropping, 
and probably too much water at the root. Tills will 
cause the lower leaves to fall at this season, espe¬ 
cially if the house is kept moist. A strong dose of 
guano would have the same tendency: but your pro¬ 
portion was a safe one. Leave off giving all manures 
for a time, and water carefully with tepid water. As 
soon as new growths appear, give manures in a weak 
solution. A little bottom-heat, if it can be given, 
would soon set your plants right. 

Early-flowering Chrysanthemums of a dark 
colour IE. Clarke).— Of dark-maroon Chrysanthe¬ 
mums there is but a limited number, although there 
are several excellent sorts of kindred tones of colour. 
We can. with confidence, recommend the following 
sortsCarmen, reddish-mahogany, old-gold reverse, 
September; Diadem, crimson-maroon, Beptcmber- 
October; Goachers Crimson, crimson, September; 
Howard H. Crane, chestnut; Jimmie, crimson-purple, 
September-Oetohcr; Kathleen Thompson, hronzy- 
die.stnut. October; Maxim, crimson-brown, Septem¬ 
ber; Mon*. J. Bte. Chativin, deep erimson, with gold 
reverse, October; Mona. Emile Rosette, crimson- 
maroon, October; Myehett Crimson, crimson, with 
golden reverse, October: Ruby King, ruby-red, Octo¬ 
ber; and Radium, reddish brown, October. 

Potting Lilium longiflorum (F. Loire). The 
best time to pot Lilies is as soon as the flower-stems 
have died down, so that if yours are not yet potted 
you ought to do so at once. You do not say whether 
your bulbs have only just been bought or whether 
you have already had them in pots. In either ease, 
potting must be done at once, using for compost two- 
thirds loam to one third leaf mould, with a little well- 
decayed manure added. Lilium longiflorum when 
grown under glass is liable to attacks of greenfly; 
hence, an occasional dose of vaporiser or dipping in 
one of the many insecticides now- to be had is neces¬ 
sary. When growing, keep the plants in a good, light 
position to prevent their becoming drawn and weak. 
Sec to it. tm>, that the bulbs have formed plenty of 
roots before introducing into heat. 

Centrum elegans (J. F. G.).-This, usually known 
as Hahrothainmis elegans, is one of the most, strik 
mg pillar plants we possess, especially in lofty struc¬ 
tures such as yours, where there is plenty <*f room 
for it to develop. If planted out in good soil, little 
attention is needed beyond thinning out the weak 
and useless overcrowded growths or shortening back 
any shoots that may have overgrown the space 
allotted to them. This you had best do in the com¬ 
ing spring. A good companion plant to this is C. 
atirautiaeum, which may he described as a counter¬ 
part of this, except that the flowers are yellow. If 
the soil has become exhausted, a little of the surface 
of the border should "be removed in the spring before 
growth commences, and replaced with fresh, iri addi¬ 
tion to which weak liquid manure may be given now 
and again during the growing season. 

Chrysanthemum cuttings (A Reader).— The 
best Chrysanthemum cuttings are formed of the 
young shoots taken in their entirety when from 
2J inches to 3 inches long. These should be cut off 
with a sharp knife a little below the ground, if pos¬ 
sible, and they are then ready for dibbling into their 
cutting pots. If the shoot is too long, a part of the 
bottom must be taken off in preference to the top. 
As you have no heat or convenience for striking the 
cuttings, your better way will be to wait till the 
spring, as then, even in your window’, if shaded from 
the sun, they will soon root. You do not say where 
your old plants are. If in the window the shoots will 
draw up far too thin and weak. They will be much 
better out-of-doors, and in the event of sharp frost 
protected by a mat or two or some loose litter. If 
out-of-doors there is but little danger of the shoots 
being from 3 inches to 6 inches high for sonic time. 

TREES AND SHRUBS. 

Strengthening a Holly-hedge (J. F.).— The 
best way to strengthen the hedge would be to pur¬ 
chase the common Holly, as to get your own plants 
from seed i3 a slow process. If you wish to raise 
your own plants, gather the berries when ripe, place 
in sand to remove the pulp, or outer covering, and 
sow in the curly spring in good soil made Arm, using 
plenty of sand or old leaf-mould in heavy soil, and in 
a season or two, when your plants are large enough, 
transplant into rows. In time select the strongest 
for your hedges. In planting give some new soil, as 
the old plants will have robbed the ground greatly. 
It is useless to plant very small seedlings in an old 
hedge. 

FRUIT. 

Pear leaves Injured (.V. V.'.— The leaves of your 
Pear-tree have no doubt been attacked by the Pear- 
leaf blister-mite (Eriophes pyri), as you infer. As 
soon as the attack i- noticed in the spring the in- 
fi-ttd leaves should be pi ked off and burned, and 
the rest fpruved with a solution of one part paraffin 
to six of water, and in April with the following mix¬ 


ture: 1 lb. of flowers of «ulphur, mixed into a gfa*'l 
with water, added to 6 lb. of soft, soap which ha® 
been dissolved in hot water. Mix thoroughly, and 
then stir, and add slowly 12 gallons of Water. The 
host winter wash is the caustic alkali solution wbwh 
has so often been referred to of late in these pugc»< 

Scale on Plum tree (A. /’. J.).—Scale is a most 
difficult pest to deal with. Dissolve 4 lb. of soft- 
soap in 4 quarts Of bulling water, then the moment 
removed from the fire add I pint of paraffin and 
some clay to make it pasty. Mix well, then paint all 
the stems over, using a paint-brush, and leave it to 
wash off, when the scale should be killed. Now is 
the time to deal with if. Simply mix the lime and 
soot together, pass all through a fine-mesifed sieve, 
and add sufficient water to make it pa.v> through 
the nozzle of a syringe. Choose a dry, culm day, and 
well syringe every part of the bush. This will pre¬ 
vent the bird® (though it may require to be done two 
or three timea) from picking out the buds, while It 
will also destroy any red-spider that may be on the 
wood. As regards the galvanised wire, all that is 
necessary is to give it two coat® of the best white- 
lead paint, this preventing the acid from injuring the 
wood. 

VEGETABLES. 

Calcium carbide residue (An Old Render).-* 
This material, which contains in moist condition 
4th52 per cent, of free water, 7.33 per cent, of cal¬ 
cium carbonate. 4.69 per cent, of calcium hydrate, 
and 0.43 per rent, of insoluble matter, would be of 
value only where the soil required lime. We would 
suggest spreading it out to dry or mixing with dry 
soil and using as a top-dressing. 

Decayed Celery (Mrs. It. Watt).— We conclude, 
from the appearance of the Celery sent, that, the 
feed was sown too early, that later the plant* re¬ 
mained too long in the seed bed, and became drawn 
and weak, and also that the general culture was at 
fault. The plant showed the centres had run to 
flower, also that in earthing, soil had got in on the 
hearts and checked growth, causing decay or rotting, 
No doubt, earthing up was done whilst the soil was 
wet. It would have done good if some lime had 
been cast about over the soil and amongst the plants 
ere toil was added; that would have helped to dry 
it. 

Making a hot bed (F. L ), In making n hot lied 

a much steadier heat is obtained by placing the 
manure in heaps, turning it several times before plac¬ 
ing it in the pit or bed. If placed direct, it heat® 
very rapidly, and then quickly gets cold again, 
Thoroughly mix all the materials together, and turn 
when heated through, not allowing the manure to 
get very hot. Make the bed as firm as possible to 
retain the warmth, making the bed as soon as the 
steam has evaporated, or after two or three turnings. 
Much depends upon the quality <>f the manure; and, 
if "strawy,” freshly gathered leaves should be mixed 
with the manure. The heat is then retained much 
longer. 

Forcing Rhubarb (I ). Rhubarb forces easily 
under the stages of a house kept at a temperature of 
55 degs. to 65 degs.. or less, if it is required to come 
on slowly. The r<*ots should be dug up in good-sized 
dumps, and be placed a few inches apart, and the 
intervening spaces between them .should lie filled in 
with uuy kind of line mould, and when all is complete 
give a good soaking of water to settle it down firmly. 
Additional waterings will be required whenever the 
soil appears at all dry. The number of root* re¬ 
quires! to fill the space mentioned entirely depends 
on their individual size. Mitchell's Royal Albert and 
Hawke's Champagne arc both excellent early kinds 
of Rhubarb that force well. 

An old Asparagus bed (A.).—If yon determine 
to remove your twenty-years-old Asparagus-bed that 
is yet doing so well, you will have to cubmit to a 
great loss, as it is useless to think of moving the 
old roots to a fresh bed. You can lift them, block 
them in close together with soil about them in a dark 
cellar next spring, and in that way v6u may get some 
very early blanched Asparagus. Then the roots may 
be thrown away. To make a fresh bed, trench a 
piece of ground 24 inches deep, bury down beneath 
the top soil a good dressing of manure, and fork in 
a dressing of short manure iut-o the ton soil. Get 
two-year-old plants from u nursery early in April, 
amt plant those in broad, flat drills. 2 feet apart and 
18 inches apart in the rows, covering them up 4 inches 
deep. This new bed will give you shoots to cut after 
being two years planted. 


SHORT REPLIES. 


Qlendalouah.— See our issue of November 30th, 
p. 522, in which you will find a reply to your query. 
- W. Ping a Horton.— Any nurseryman who specia¬ 
lises in Roses could get you all the Roses mentioned 

at p. 551. - R E. Hodson. —We should advise you to 

procure a copy of *' The English Flower Garden,” in 
which the whole question of the arrangement and 
planting of borders is dealt with very fully, lists also 
being given. Illustrations of well-planted borders are 

also given.- Shears.— “ Topiary," by C. H. Curtis 

and W. Gibson. Any bookseller could get this for 

yon.- G. It. IF.—Had you sent us a specimen of the 

worm you found at the roots, we could have helped 
you, no doubt. It looks, however, from the drawn 
specimen you scud, a-« if the trouble arises from keep¬ 
ing the plants too dose and the soil too damp. The 
plants should he stood on a shelf as near the light as 
passible, and carefully watered. ---//. L.— The great 
point is to have the pots well filled with roots before 
you take the bulbs indoors. 


Catalogues received.-G. S. Evan*, The Nurse¬ 
ries, May Place-road, Bexley Heath, Kent.— Carna¬ 
tion List for l'JOS. -Henry F.ckford, Worn. Salop — 

Lid of Soveltics in Sweet Pea. t’loucr. and Veget¬ 
able Seeds. —-James, Jket&ay. and Sons. Langport - 
Manual tor — Dobbte :ind Co., Rothesaj.— Seed 

. . . . . .. ;; '"" 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


GARDENIN'Gr ILLUSTRATED, 


No. 1,504.— Vol. XXIX 


Founded, by W. Robinson, Author qf “ The English Flower Garden." 


JANUARY 4, 1908. 


INDEX, 


Auiuricun-blight.. .. 591 

Applets, baking .. .. 600 

Ash, Weeping, a pic¬ 
turesque.. r >89 

Begonia Moonlight .. 592 

Birds .509 

Rooks .600 

Cabbages.597 

Cabbages, hybrid .. 597 
Calanthe juponiea alba 591 
Campanula punctata .. 595 
Ceanothus Gluiro dc 
Versailles .. 589 

Celery, a note on .. 597 

ChryB&ntheuiuni, early* 

flowering Pompon, 
Diamond .. 590 

Chrysanthemum Kath¬ 
leen Thompson .. 590 
Chrysanthemum, spi¬ 
dery, Sam Caswell .. 590 


Chrysanthemum, spi¬ 
dery, Jessie Madeline 


Colo . 

rm 

Chrysanthemums 

590 

Chrysanthemums fur 


exhibition 

590 

Chrysanthemums uat 


urally-grown plant* .. 

590 

Conservatory 

598 

Cratiugus Pyruuantha, 


pruning . 

CAM) 

C'rowea saligna .. 

592 

Damson-tree not fruit- 


mg . 

588 

Diplaeus glutinosus 

592 

Lranthemum pulchel- 


lum . 

592 

Ferns . 

591 

Ferns ami the black 


ihrips. 

591 

Ferns in the house 

591 


i Flowers, cut, in the 

house.594 

Fruit .587 

Fruit garden .. 598 

Fruit-trees, cordon, 
treatment of .. .. 588 

Fruit-trees, old .. .. 587 

Fruit-trees, transplant¬ 
ing .600 

Fruit-trees, wrong prun¬ 
ing of .. ,. .. 587 

Garden, a tidy kitchen 597 
Garden diary, extracts 

from a.598 

Gardening, municipal.. 594 
Garden pests and 

friends.594 

I Garden work .. .. 598 

Glen, planting a.. .. 59.1 

Gooseberries, pruning.. 600 
I Gooseberry-mildew .. 594 


Ground, vacant ,. .. 597 , 

Gypsophila .. .. 595 

Hippeastruw species .. 592 I 

Hollyhocks .. .. 596 , 

Horseradish .. .. 597 j 

Indoor plants .. .. 592 

Larkspurs for dry places 595 j 

Law and custom .. 599 

Lobelias, perennial .. 596 

Lyre-flower (Diceulra 
spectabilis), the .. 600 

Mint-bed, making a .. 600 
Moss in lawn .. .. 5% 

Mushroom-beds, water¬ 
ing .598 

Orchids.591 

Outdoor garden .. .. 598 

Outdoor plants .. .. 594 

Peaches, late .. .. 587 

Peach-house, the early 598 
Pear Princess .. .. 588 


Pears, stewing .. .. 587 

Pelargoniums, Zonal .. 592 

Pentstemons .. .. 5% 

Plants and flowers .. 590 
Plants for cold- 

house .592 

Plants from seed for 
rock work .. .. 596 

Plants in the house .. 598 
Poinsettia blooms, keep¬ 
ing .600 

I Poppies, Iceland .. 595 

! Poultry.599 

Pig-manure .. .. 600 

Primroses (tEuothora), 

! Evening.596 

Raspberry failure .. 548 
Road, public, hiding a 589 
1 Room and window .. 593 
Roses for button holes, 
six good.GOO 


Roses 


594 

Roses for cutting 


594 

Roses for screens 


593 

Roses, large - flowered 


Hybrid Perpetual 


593 

Shrubs, win ter-flower- 


mg 

Spir.ea japonic* 

(s! 

589 

callosa) and its varic 


tics 


590 

Stove 


598 

Trees and shrubs 


589 

Vegetable garden 
Vegetables 


398 

597 

Vine forcing, an item 


in. 


593 

Vines, crowded .. 
Week's work, the 

om- 

GOO 

ing 


593 


Winter Cherry (Phy- 
Httlis), the .. 600 


FRUIT, 


WRONG PRUNING OF FRUIT-TREES. 

If a pruner is not able to give a reason for 
cutting back or removing any part of a tree, 
lie will be quite as likely to damage it as to 
improve its growth or fruit productiveness. 
When I was a boy, my father sent a wood- 
chopper to prune his Apple-trees, using no 
tools but a wood-chopper’s axe. He knew 
bow to chop down trees and how to pile up 
the brush and the cordwood; but he had not 
the knowledge essential to prune a tree so as 
to improve its growth or its bearing fruit. 

The trees were large and in full bearing; 
very few of them needed any more pruning 
than cutting off here and there a small 
branch. But that pruner chopped off many 
large and leading limbs from every tree. 
Many of the limbs were 14 feet to 18 feet 
long, and 0 inches to 8 inches in diameter 
at the butt end, where they were severed 
from the parent stocks. Then the brandies 
that were allowed to remain were all trimmed 
neatly and clean of every twig, leaf-spur, 
and fruit-spur, leaving nothing but a large 
bush at the end of a long limb. I well re¬ 
member how long and destitute of branches 
and twigs most of the limbs were. In many 
instances more of the top was slashed away 
than remained. Huge and gaping wounds on 
every tree were exceedingly damaging to those 
trees. From the time of that reckless prun¬ 
ing, the rapid decay of the most fruitful trees 
commenced. Every season the yield of fruit 
continued to diminish. Many of the trees 
continued to decay at the heart, until there 
was nothing left except an old, half-decayed 
tree, standing on two prongs. 

Every fruit-tree (if it is a free-bearing 
variety) will send out fruit-spurs on the sides 
of all the limbs and small branches, covering 
the sides and upper surface with fruit-spurs 
and leaf-spurs from the body of the tree to 
the extremity of the branches. These should 
never be removed; yet many owners of or¬ 
chards, with saw or hatchet, clip off every 
fruit-spur from the main part of the large 
limbs and small branches, leaving only a 
denuded branch. 

Fruit-spurs are small shoots only 1 inch or 
2 inches long. These should neither be cut 
off nor jammed off by one’s feet when he is 
plucking the fruit. Fruit-spurs produce 
fruit-buds in one season for the crop of fruit 
the following season. Leaf-buds may appear 
one year, and the following season they will 
produce fruit-buds,-and the succeeding season 
the fruit-buds will yield fruit. Nature would 
cover all the large branches with leaf-buds or 
fruit-buds and leaves, for the purpose of pro¬ 
tecting the branches from the sunshine. 
That is one point of importance to be remem¬ 
bered by everyone who owns a fruit-tree of 
any sort. Still another consideration should 
be remembered. When the branches of any 
tree along their length arc full of fruit-buds, 
the crop will not be lial^TPiahJ^ toba^laken 
off by furious winds wffe|i^fne 


fruit grows at the extremity of long and 
swaying limbs. It is a wrong practice to 
prune away all the small branches, twigs, 
fruit-buds, and leaf-buds from the interior 
of a tree-top. The old stereotyped rule was 
to cut away the interior of a tree-top so as to 
let in the sunshine and air. There is no 
sound reasoning in such direction for pruning 
trees. The foliage at the extremities of the 
branches will exclude all direct sunshine. 
Fruit-trees require but little pruning. Many 
need none at all. 

Every tree that needs pruning should be 
pruned when the superfluous branches are 
small. When the branches are allowed to 
grow until they are as large ns a man’s arm. 
it will be very damaging to the tree to cut off 
such large branches. If wo examine any 
fruit-trees and some ornamental trees, we can 
see at the junction of the limbs with the 
main stem a sort of crease or seam or cica¬ 
trice extending around the base of each 
branch. That natural seam indicates the bet¬ 
ter place for severing the limb from the main 
stem. If a branch is sawed off at that seam, 
the wound will always heal much sooner 
than if the cut were made on either side of it. 

_S. E. T. 

OLD FRUIT-TREES. 

All old trees when they cease to bear good 
fruit, and a fair crop of it, should be grubbed 
up and converted into firewood. There are 
far too many old, useless trees in orchards. 
The feeling which prompts people to cling to 
old trees is an ancient one, but it cannot be 
defended on sound commercial principles. 
In order to keep lip the stock of fruit-trees 
in a garden or orchard in the most fertile 
condition there should always be young trees 
coming on to take the place of those that 
are getting too old ; then when a tree on the 
wall, ail espalier in the fruit border, or an 
orchard tree became old and decrepit it could 
be removed and a young bearing tree put in 
its place. It is sound policy to have a few 
trees in training, and those who like to do 
grafting and stock-raising at home may keep 
up their orchards and fruit gardens without 
cost. Though all old worn-out trees should 
be cleared away, we should, before condemn¬ 
ing them, make sure that they really are 
worn out past resuscitation, because many 
trees arc decrepit through neglect. Orchards 
on Grass fed off by sheep are, perhaps, not 
badly off, but where the Grans is mown and 
converted into bay, and in any case where 
the produce of the land is carried off and 
nothing brought back, the trees must suffer 
and become prematurely barren. Orchard 
or other trees that arc not past recovery 
should be seen to at once, and rich tup-dress¬ 
ings applied. I have seen great good to re 
suit from the application of liquid-manure to 
old, exhausted trees in winter, when it could 
not be 60 profitably used for other crops. 
Sewage from the house and drainings from 
stables and other farm buildings may be pro¬ 
fitably utilised now, as the hungry soil will 
become enriched by the water filtering 


through it. In substituting young trees for 
old ones, the young trees should not occupy 
exactly the same position without, at least, 
a partial renewal of the soil. In the ease of 
wall trees, if maiden loam cannot be had, the 
old soil should be removed, and fresh soil not 
exhausted by fruit-trees of the same kind 
brought in from some other part of the gar¬ 
den. There should be no difficulty in this, 
as the labour would be but trifling in com¬ 
parison with the good likely to result from it. 

C. H. N. 


Late Peaches.— At tlie Bristol Chrysanthemum 
show an exhibitor of a mixed collection of fruit staged 
some remarkably fresh and well-preserved fruits of 
the Sulway Peach, which, though of poor flavour, 
were certainly attractive, and contributed iu no email 
degree to the bestowal of the coveted first prize. 
Latterly I have changed my opinion in regard to the 
value of these very late Peaches, for I find the flavour 
of these fruits is not appreciated much, though well- 
coloured samples arc admittedly handsome, judged 
from an exhibition standpoint. When such fruits 
have to compete with full-flavoured Pears and Coe's 
Plum, there is not much favour usually shown to 
them.—W. S. 

STEWING PEARS. 

The names of varieties of the Pear suitable 
for the dessert are often inquired for, but it 
is seldom that one is asked to recommend a 
single variety of stewing Pear. This leads 
one to assume that the planting of this class 
of Pear is but infrequently done now. and in 
direct contrast to what used to be the case 
in times past. In many old gardens and 
orchards, fine, vigorous, aged trees still exist, 
which silently attest to the interest and care 
that were at that time bestowed on the stew¬ 
ing Pear, and how greatly the fruit as a 
dish was then appreciated. In many estab¬ 
lishments there is still a large demand for 
these Pears, and they would, no doubt, be 
much more largely consumed if they were 
more generally grown. I think it is duo 
more to the fact that they are so often not 
obtainable in a great number, if not Iho 
majority of instances, than to want of appre¬ 
ciation, evidence of which is, to a great ex¬ 
tent, forthcoming by so many making use of 
the unripened fruits of dessert Pears for 
stewing. These in a measure answer the 
purpose, or are better than none; but there 
is a vast difference in the quality when com¬ 
pared with a dish prepared from a true or 
typical stewing Pear. Again, using dessert 
Pears for stewing is but a make-sliift, and at 
the best they cannot be had for anything ap¬ 
proaching the length of time that the stew¬ 
ing varieties are available. Take the Catiline 
Pear as an example. Here we have a variety 
which, if circumstances so demand, can be 
used now, and at the same time, if the yield 
is sufficient to do so, the fruits will continue 
iu use till the end of March. There are, of 
course, other varieties which come into use 
before Catillac, but this particular variety 
was quoted merely to show that it is not at all 
necessary to grow a number of varieties in 
order to’ insure a regular Supply in fact, I 
consider four to be ample for any garden, 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




















C88 


GARDENING ILL EXTRA TED . 


January 4, 1908 


unless the demand is very heavy, when two 
more may be added. As Catillac has already 
been named, this will be first considered. 
This is a large fruit, and is freely produced 
by standard trees, the best of ail forms in 
which to grow it. Anyone having a vigorous 
old Pear-tree of an inferior variety, or one 
lie does not value much, would be astonished 
if he headed it back and grafted it with Catil¬ 
lac, at the quantity of fruit he would get in 
return, not spasmodically, but as regularly as 
the nature of the season will allow. The 
variety may also be grown as a bush and as 
a diagonally-trained tree on a wall. If stew¬ 
ing Pears are in request early in the season, 
a good kind to grow is Gilogil. This is a 
fairly large fruit, and it keeps well. It is 
also very prolific, and succeeds well as a 
standard, in addition to being suitable for 
growing as a bush or pyramid. Bellissiine 
d’Hiver, much in the way of Catillac, but 
larger, is another first-rate variety, and suc¬ 
ceeds ill almost any form of tree. Like the 
foregoing, it is a regular cropper, and should 
be represented wherever stewing Pears aro 
in demand. Verulam or Black Pear of Wor¬ 
cester is a renowned stewing variety, of 
large size and excellent keeping qualities. It 
has a very hardy constitution, and may be 
grown either as bush, standard, or wall 


PEAR PRINCESS. 

This is a seedling raised by Mr. RiverR, of 
Sawbridgeworth from Louise Bonne of 
Jersey, .and in many respects it greatly re¬ 
sembles its parent. It, however, differs 
somewhat in regard to shape. It is also a 
larger, and, last, but by no means least, it 
has the merit of not maturing till mid- 
December, and on one occasion 1 was able to 
keep it till the end of the year. The colour 
and markings of the skin are also somewhat 
similar to those of Louise Bonne, so that it 
is of handsome appearance, while it is equally 
as juicy and richly flavoured as that variety. 
It is a hardy, vigorous grower, an abundant 
cropper, and may be grown in any form of 
tree. Magnificent fruits can be obtained by- 
growing it as a cordon on a south-west or 
western aspect. Princess can also be recom¬ 
mended as being a valuable Pear for market. 

A. W. 

RASPBERRY FAILURE. 

In one large garden I know well in Surrey, 
the soil of which is rather stiff, Rasplierries 
never can be induced to do well. The gar¬ 
dener told me that in the position the garden 
occupied, 6ubsoii water was occasionally apt 
to rise near the surface, and whilst newly- 


ripening of the new canes ; but that is gener¬ 
ally the result of the roots having got into 
sour, wet soil. The cutting out of bearing 
canes so soon as they have done fruiting, and 
the thinning out early of young suckers, help 
materially to the maturing of the canes or 
suckers left. D. 

NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Damson-tree not fruiting.— On a plot of carrier 
ground I have just acquired w a fully-grown and 
healtliy-looking Damson-tree. It blossomed rather 
feebly, but produced no fruit. I learn that it ha* not. 
borne for several years, if at all. I well manured 
around the roots in the spring. The soil is rather 
gravelly. Can you suggest what is wrong with it, 
and a remedy?—T. Y. 

[The older Damson, commonly known as 
the Blue Damson, is often a disappointing 
tree as a fruiter. On the other hand, such 
less known varieties as Farleigh Prolific, or 
Crittenden, Bradley’s King, Frogmore, or 
Cheshire, are generally heavy croppers. The 
Farleigh is the best, as whilst the fruits are 
borne in great profusion, they are real Dam¬ 
sons, and not small Plums. Possibly repeti¬ 
tions of manure dressings each winter, lightly 
forked in, would help to create fruit-buds, 
and quite fertile bloom. Failing such result, 
the best course may be to open a trench 
112 feet wide and deep, 5 feet from the stem, all 
round the tree, grubbing under with a broad, 
sharp chisel fixed to along handle, cutting off 
all downward roots, then filling the trench 
with part of fresh soil and some of the old, 
adding a little manure. That may in time 
throw the tree into bearing.] 

Treatment of cordon fruit-trees. — I have 
bought some thrte-year-old cordons of Apples and 
Pears to grow diagonally on a wire framework. They 
are already between G feet and 7 feet long. 1 am in 
doubt whether to shorten the leading shoots or not. 
Authorities seem to differ on the point. It seems to 
me that, if no cutting back is done, they w ill soon 
grow to an extravagant length. Moreover, the dif¬ 
ferent varieties are unequally furnished with fruit- 
spurs, and it might be advisable to shorten more 
those which do not make spurs freely. 1 have— 
Apples: Cox’s Orange, Jacob’s Seedling, Beauty of 
Bath, Charles Ross, James Grieve, and King of Pip¬ 
pins. Also Pears: Doyennd du Cornice nud Mar¬ 
guerite Marillat. As I am planting them fully 2 feet 
apart, will it not be advantageous to train up one 
of the side shoots as an additional cordon, and so 
gain extra fruiting wood?—H. N. Hunt. 

[The leaders of your cordons would be best 
shortened back, otherwise there is always a 
danger of fruit-buds being formed through¬ 
out. their entire length, and little or no 
growth made. When such is the ease, hard 
pruning has to bo resorted to hereafter, in 
order to secure new leaders for extension. 
By cutting them back much or little, accord¬ 
ing to the circumstances of the ease, a free 
emission of young growths usually results, 
and these, when stopped in due course to 
four and five buds, form the basis of future 
fruiting spurs. This also enables the trees 
to be extended upwards, as the topmost 6hoots 
should be preserved intact to form leaders 
with, and be trained out as straight as pos¬ 
sible. With regard to the point at which the 
leaders should be cut back to, this depends 
entirely on the varieties and vigour of the 
trees. For instance, a variety which is not 
a strong grower, and, therefore, prone to pro¬ 
duce an abundance of fruit-spurs, should be 
cut back much harder than one which has 
fewer spurs, and inclined to make 6trong 
growth. In the first case, prune back the 
leader to quite two-thirds of its length, which 
will be conducive towards more vigorous 
growth resulting than would be the case if 
the leader were but slightly shortened. 
Strong growing varieties, therefore, only 
need have their leaders pruned, say, to a 
quarter or one-third of their length, and if 
von proceed with the pruning on these lines 
you cannot make n mistake. Your sugges¬ 
tion in regard to the pruning of the trees 
which do not make spurs freely would only 
aggravate the evil by inducing them to make 
more wood and fewer fruit-buds, ending in 
the trees having to be lifted as a corrective. 
As to the training-iu of a supplementary 
shoot on each tree, you may certainly do so, 
although the space is rather limited. It 
would have been better to have planted the 
trees 6 inches further apart than you have 
done, which would haVe allowed more room 
for the development of the second stem. 
Some growers train in a young slibot as you 
suggest, and then.when it becomes fully 



Pear Princess. 


trained tree. Uvedale’s St. Germain is quite 
as hardy as any of the above, but, owing to 
the extraordinary size which the fruits at¬ 
tain to, is best grown against a wall. This 
is a good cropper and keeper, and, owing to 
the size, the produce from one tree alone is 
sufficient to meet a daily demand extending 
over several weeks. The average weight of 
this Pear is 1£ lb. to 2 lb., and they have 
been grown up to 3 lb. in weight, so that 
two or three suffice for cutting up to form a 
dish for stewing or baking. Winter Orange, 
though not so large as either of those already 
named, is excellent for very late use, it 
being very prolific, and suited for garden 
culture. This does not by any means ex¬ 
haust the list of Pears suited for stewing or 
baking, but the six varieties named are, in 
my opinion, the cream of them, and worthy 
of cultivation wherever these Pears are in 
request. So far the utilitarian side of the 
question only has been presented. Looking 
at the matter from a purely ornamental 
point of view, these stewing Pears have a 
strong claim to be represented in shrub¬ 
beries, as isolated specimens on the lawn, 
or in the formation of groups of trees in park 
planting, by reason of the great wealth of 
blossom that established trees produce sea¬ 
son after season, wju^h renders tl%em exceed¬ 
ingly handsome qfml efl^tivc, 


n<nd eff^tn 

YjO 



w. 


I planted Raspberries would do well for two or 
throe years, yet never making strong suckers, 
when the roots got deeper then the trouble 
began, and the plants died wholesale. Pos¬ 
sibly very deep drainage would rectify the 
trouble. While bush-fruits and Strawberries 
do well, all being more shallow rooters, the 
Raspberry-roots seem naturally to run deep. 
Where such failures result (one eueli is noted 
on page 470), it is possible that were a trench, 
2 feet wide, and as deep, opened, some 
6 inches of coarse rubble put into the bottom, 
on 'that rough pieces of turf, and ■ horse- 
manure, then the trench filled high with soil, 
and well-rooted Raspberry-suckers planted, 
the results in due course might be all that is 
desired. Drastic experiments alone will en¬ 
able those suffering from these troubles to 
overcome them. Amateur gardeners in mak¬ 
ing new plantations of Raspberries may not 
always assure themselves that their purchased 
suckers are well rooted, and the stems fairly 
well hardened. It may be assumed that 
when it is the rule to cut hard down the 
stems of newly-planted suckers, the ripening 
of the 6tems may be of little moment. But. 
the cutting down should not lie done till 
February at least, and if. in the meantime, 
hard frosts have killed the badly-ripened 
sucker stems, even the portion buried in thei 
soil may have been killed also. A common 
cause of failure with Raspberries is the non- 





January 4, 1008 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


589 


grown they cut away the old 6tem, and so 
maintain their trees in a vigorous bearing 
condition. These young shoots should, how¬ 
ever, be obtained as near to the base of the 
tree as possible, and not at the point shown 
in your sketch.] 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 

A PICTURESQUE WEEPING ASH. 

Of all European trees of which there are 
weeping forms, the Ash is, perhaps, the most 
precious, and it is possible to have it more 
picturesque than we commonly 6ee it. People 
are too often content to let it form a roundish 
outline anything but graceful. In the case 
of our illustration, posts are used to make 
an entrance to a verdant tent underneath, 
and the tree is taller and finer in outline than 


WINTER-FLOWERING SHRUBS. 
Anything in the way of a flower out-of-doors 
during the dreary months of wintejMs always 
acceptable. They may not be so gorgeous, nor 
so choice as some flowers in spring and 
summer, yet they brighten up our walls, and, 
in some instances, shrubbery beds and bor¬ 
ders as well. Take the very earliest of the 
Rhododendrons, such as the Nobieanum type, 
which, in the warmer parts of the country, 
begins to open its pink, flesh, or scarlet 
flowers quite early in November, and unless 
severe frost occurs there is a continuous show 
of bloom well into summer. Then there are 
the shrubby. Veronicas, which, with us, are in 
flower more or less throughout the year. 
These, with the creamy heads of Eupatorium 
Weinmannianum, make agood vase of flowers 
when cut and lightly arranged. Olea fra- 
grans, sometimes found under the name of 


in fact, all the varieties—may be increased 
by cuttings, the hardy ones put in about the 
end of October, similar to the Rose. The 
Winter Sweet may be layered, if increase of 
stock be desired; it may also be raised from 
seed, but many inferior varieties appear, and 
some of them sky-floweririg. 

Bicton, Devon. J. Mayne. 

NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Hiding a public road.-Kindly tell me what 
would be my best plan in regard to planting on the 
field side of the wooden fence shown in enclosed 
photograph, which I took last summer in a part I 
call the “ wild walk.” 1 fenced this piece off a big 
field, the old fence between garden proper and field 
having become very bad and rotten. With Primroses, 
common Forget-me-not, Poeticus Narcissus, and 
common Daffodils, this wild walk is delightful in 
the spring, and I mow a winding path through the 
meadow Grass. I made the wood fence curve in and 
out, so as not to have anything stiffer than I could 



A pictures*|ue Weeping Ash in the gardens at Narrowater House, Co. Down, Ireland. 


we usually see it. When grafted high, it is 
often much more picturesque than when 
grafted low, and there is a fine example of 
a tall weeping Ash at Elvaston, or near 
there. 

The ‘Weeping forms of our own native trees 
are often very beautiful, and more so than 
any exotic ones, the Mountain Elm being a 
fine garden tree in its weeping form, and 
alsj the weeping Aspen. 


Ceanothu8 Cloire de Versailles.— If there 
is a better shrub or as good as this I should 
like to know of it. After flowering the whole 
summer and autumn with me, it was in bloom 
the first week in December on an east wall, 
and fit to cut for house use. I do not know 
what its northward limit is in Britain, but 


in the south of England and the home coun 
ties it seems as free as any shrub. Further 
north its place is agairurfH* wall. 

Digitized tv V -*Cli * 


ir/f> wall. C. 1 

gle 


Osman thus fragmns, is, as Its name implies, I 
very sweet, although the individual flowers 
are very small It, is a dense-growing bush ; 1 
while in a young state the foliage is similar to 
tlie Holly, but smaller. The above grow and 
flower in the open in this mild climate, while 
trained against the wall we have the \\ inter 
Sweet (Chimonnnthus fragrans), a delightful 
little flower, half-a-dozen blooms placed in a 
saucer of water filling a good-sized room with 
its delicious fragrance. Jasminum nudi- 
florum is another wall plant that gives a good 
display from November onwards. Unlike 
most of tlie family this has no scent, blit the 
yellow flowers are very conspicuous in mid¬ 
winter. These two plants require to be 
spurred pretty hal'd back as soon as they 
liave passed out of flower, the Chimonanllius 
bearing most of its hlooms on spur growths, 
while the Jasmine flowers on the young shoots 
made during the summer. This Jasminum 


help. But there is a high road a little way from the 
lower end of the fence, and dust comes over in tlie 
drv, hot days of summer, and I want a protection 
from it. without curtailing space In my wild piece. 
What I would like to be told is whether strong 
Quick will be able to get a lipid when cattle or 
horses are eating the aftermath in the field? I like 
a Quick hedge.—W. J. 

[Your photograph shows the situation 
clearly. It is very difficult to fence, in the 
presence of animals, and one way might be to 
put a trellis of some strong Ivy, like the 
Amoor Ivy, inside the wood fence. Failing 
that, if you plant on the field side, you must 
use some kind of fence to protect it from your 
young stock. If you wish for an evergreen 
fence, take Lawson’s Cypress, a hardy 
Laurel, or, better still, Holly, if you can get 
good plants. Quick, we think, the best of all 
fences, and some of the American kinds make 
superb fences, but they have not come into 
nurseries generally^ yet. C*ne of the best 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 











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Original from 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



January 4, 190S 


GARDENING ILLUSTRjITED. 


591 


ORCHIDS. 

CALANTHE JAPONICA ALBA. 

This pretty Japanese Calanthe is, evidently, 
a geographical form of the old and well- 
known C. veratrifolia, whose natural habitat 
extends over an immense area in the Far 
East. The plant, like the type, is of robust 
habit, the foliage evergreen, the spike erect, 
and about 18 inches in height. At its apex is 
a dense corymbose raceme of ivory-white 
flowers, the lip nure white, with a small yel¬ 
low blotch at the base. There is another 
variety of the same species which has a red¬ 
dish colour instead of yellow on the lip. The 
present is a good time to repot, any plants of 
this evergreen section, which includes such 
varieties m C. veratrifolia, C. masuca, C. 
inacroloha, C. citrina, C. Sanderiana, and 
the hybrids C. Doininiana and C. Lauclieana. 
Being strong rooting plants, they rerinire 
rather large pots, which should bo one third 
Tull of broken crocks, over which place a thin 
layer of good turfy loam, with the Grass side 
downwards. The Toots will penetrate this 
piece of turf, to the benefit of the plants, 


plants, and, if not checked with brush and 
sponge, will not only cover both sides of the 
foliage, but will take possession of the spikes 
in such numbers as to quite spoil them. It 
is also necessary to carefully watch the spikes 
as they push up in conjunction with the new 
growths, and to see that green and yellow 
aphides arc kept, away from the flower buds. 

FERNS* 

FERNS IN THE HOUSE. • 

Ferxs and Palms are, probably, more in re¬ 
quest for house decoration than any other 
' plants now grown. Ferns eon, however, be 
used in some instances where Palms would 
be either too large or of too spreading a 
I character, whilst as small plants they have 
a decided advantage. More people have, 
j possibly, failed to grow Adiantum euneatum 
I the year round in a living room than any 
other Fern. I do not wonder at this, for it, 
, is not altogether an easy matter to keep this 
Fern all the year in a healthy state in a 
I room. When* it is accomplished, it speaks 
j well for the grower of such a plant. The 
I points where failure are most, likely to occur 



Calanthe japoniea all»a. From a photograph in Sir Trevor Lawrence’s garden at 
Harford Lodge, Dorking. 


about the time when the spikes are pushing , 
up. For a compost use three-fourths good 
fibrous yellow loam, one eighth of leaf-monld j 
or well-rotted stable-manure, the remainder | 
consisting of coarse river sand and sufficient j 
small crocks to keep it sweet and open. Mix ; 
the materials well together, and when pot- j 
ting press the compost down moderately firm, 
making it level on the surface, and allowing' 
plenty of space for water. 

After the plants have been repotted, the 
watering should be carefully done, not giving 
too much or too little, but when thoroughly 
well rooted in the loam, an abundance of [ 
water is necessary, being careful that it. passes ' 
freely away through the drainage. It is a 
plant that needs an intermediate tempera¬ 
ture, an ordinary greenhouse also suiting its i 
requirements. These plants do not appre¬ 
ciate being grown too near to the roof glass, , 
a rather shady position at. all seasons being 
preferable. While the plants are in bloom 
they should 1x4 placed in the coolest and 
driest part of the house, whore, if kept free 
from damp, the flowers will remain quite I 
fresh for two or three months. During the 
growing season a small brown scale, which j 
reproduces itself ve^irajjid^y. w^lL Jt^pk the ' 


are either in excess of potting, or in giving 
too much water when the plant is not mak¬ 
ing a fresh growth. Those who are not ex¬ 
perienced in potting will, when this work has 
to be done, do it with a fear of making the 
fresh soil too firm around the old ball. This 
is a great mistake, and one which must ulti¬ 
mately result in complete failure. If proper 
soil cannot be had from a reliable source, 
I would prefer to use the scrapings from a 
road or lane where no macadam had been 
laid ; this, when mixed with a little fibrous 
loam, would make a very good soil. When 
plants are intended to l>e used in rooms, one 
of the principal points is to see that they are 
well established, the pots being well filled 
with roots. When this is the ease, the 
greatest risk of injury may be considered to 
be averted. The plants will, it is true, re¬ 
quire more attention ns regards watering, but 
the fact of their taking more water is all in 
their favour. On the other hand, suppose a 
plant be chosen which has not been potted 
for nnv length of time, or where the pot is 
far too large in proportion to the plant, the 
result is that hut little water is ever needed ; 
consequently the roots soon suffer, because 
under the conditions of rooms in general they 
cannot absorb that amount of moisture they 


would otherwise do in a plant-house. The 
end of this is that the roots die and the soil 
becomes sour and sodden long before its 
time. More plants suffer from injudicious 
treatment than from the mere fact of being 
used in rooms. 

Where gas is the lighting medium, keep 
the plants as far removed from the gas as 
possible. Another fertile source of injury is 
exposure to draughts, such, for instance, as 
that where a window is opened at the bottom 
instead of the top, with an inrush of cold air 
at certain seasons of the year striking im¬ 
mediately upon the plants, if perchance they 
happen to be near the light ; or, again, at 
daybreak, when dusting and other domestic 
w r ork are in progress, up goes the lower sash, 
admitting a volume of fresh air, quite essen¬ 
tial in its way, but not good for plants in such 
quantities, particularly when some few de¬ 
grees of frost are being registered outside. 
No wonder, then, if plants suffer, combined 
with a heated room at night, the two ex¬ 
tremes occurring in rotation every twenty- 
four hours, perhaps for weeks together. 
Some plants will resist this kind of treat¬ 
ment better than others. Ferns cannot, how¬ 
ever, withstand it, except in the ease of a 
few only of the very hardiest; no wonder, 
then, if in many instances Ferns are not. so 
popular as they should he. 

Where Ferns are being grown purposely for 
house decoration, they should not he shaded 
to any great extent; the aim should rather 
be to obtain a more enduring growth, the 
fronds being harder, though not, perhaps, so 
fully developed. The colour in such instances 
would be a paler green, with, in some cases, 
quite a roseate tint, whilst on the other hand, 
where much shade is employed, a deep green 
colour will pervade the fronds with greater 
vigour also, which, although indicating good 
cultivation, does not provide the material 
that will endure atmospheric changes to 
1 nearly the same degree. Too moist an atmos¬ 
phere will also encourage a strong growth, 
which even when not carried to any actual 
excess, supposing the plants were to remain 
in the house where they are growing, is yet 
too much for those which are being used in 
the drier atmosphere of rooms. Before be¬ 
ing used, plants from a moist atmosphere 
should be subjected to a freer atmosphere- 
not, however, to sharp currents. They will 
thus become acclimatised and more readily 
withstand the change, lasting at. the same 
time in better condition. It may be urged 
that this gives unnecessary trouble, but. if the 
plants can by these simple precautions he 
kept in better condition, one is repaid for 
any extra pains he may take. What is more 
annoying than to see a lot of good plants 
spoiled when by adopting a few simple 
methods it might have been averted? Dur¬ 
ing the winter season in the removal of plants 
there i.s room for improvement during frosty 
weather. The plants should not Ih? exposed 
either to frost or piercing easterly winds, hut 
receive protection in transit. For this purpose 
a light framework, in size according to the re¬ 
quirements in each ease, should Ik? fitted to 
the hand-harrow. Upon a light frame of 
w r ootl it is very easy to fix a light covering 
of some sort. Such an arrangement. would 
for several months he found very useful, not 
only for Ferns, hut for other plants from the 
stove more particularly. G. A. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Ferns and the black thrips — Several Ferns are 
subject to at-tarks of this insect pest, and the present 
is a good time to draw attention to it. Where hut 
1 it tie heat, or perhaps none at all. has been used for 
Ferns up to the present time, the blark thrips will not 
have made so much progress. It delights in a warm 
and dry atmosphere. This, so far, will not have been 
the rule with most, collect-ions, but as more heat, is 
applied to maintain the same, or even a lower 
temperature with frost, this kind of thrips will thrive 
amazingly. As a remedy, it will be better to at once 
ovorhaul all Ferns that are subject to it, first remov¬ 
ing the old and shabby fronds, which will also do 
away with a good many of the brown scale at the 
same time, and then fumigate twice or thrice on suc¬ 
cessive afternoons. This will set matters right in this 
direction for some time to come. It may happen that 
large plants of Dicksonia are attacked; these, in addi¬ 
tion, should be freely syringed. 


Index to Volume XXVIII.-The binding covers 
(price Is. Cd. each, post free, Js. I*d.) and Index (hi., 
post free, 8$d.) for Volume XXVIII. are now ready, 
and may be had of aJLncwsacenta, or ofJJio l’nb- 
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692 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


January 4, 1908 


INDOOR PLANTS. 

ZONAL PELARGONIUMS. 
Generally we have no plants more easy to 
grow in greenhouses or outside than are 
Zonal Pelargoniums, although, eso far as the 
latter employment of them is concerned, less 
interest attaches to them, or they are now 
less popular, because Tuberous Begonias 
have become such formidable rivals. Thus 
last year, with a cold, wet season. Begonias 
have done remarkably well, whilst the Pelar¬ 
goniums have gone to leaf, and bloom has 
greatly suffered. The best effects from any 
section of Pelargoniums have been got from 
old, tall plants of Ivy-leaved forms, these hav¬ 
ing flowered during the summer and autumn 
in rich profusion. But whilst in hot, dry 
summers Zonal Pelargoniums, especially those 
having such warm tints as J. Gibbons, Paul 
Crampei, H. Jacoby, and others, will give in 
masses exceedingly brilliant colouring out¬ 
doors, such colours on plants in pots in a 
greenhouse seem unendurable. It is then 
that cooler or less warm hues are needed, and 
no plants in a greenhouse then are more 
grateful than Fuchsia, Plumbago, Abutilon, 
Streptosolens, white and blue Campanulas, 
and some of the softer-hued Ivv-leaved Pelar¬ 
goniums. 

It is in the winter when Zonal Pelar¬ 
goniums are so beautiful and tell with such 
striking effect. Then a score of pot plants 
in bloom are worth three times the number 
in the summer. When these rich colours, 
however, are then intermingled with white, 
pink, rose, and other diverse hues, then, 
when the weather outside is dull, cold, and 
cheerless, the effect created by seeing a house 
full of these plants in bloom can be better 
imagined than described. One grower of 
these plants, whose house of them- a light, 
roomy place—I have often seen in the month 
of November, and admired, made it the rule 
to cut down his plants at the end of February, 
wanting the house then for herbaceous Cal¬ 
ceolarias. Cuttings from each variety were 
inserted into quite small pots, singly, putting 
them near the side of the pot, and into Boil 
containing plenty of silver sand. Thevse, 
stood on a shelf near the glass in a warm 
house, soon rooted, and, when well so, were 
shifted into 48-sized pots, using good turfy 
loam, old hot-bed manure, and less of sharp 
sand. Whilst in these pots the plants would 
have one or two pinchings, especially of all 
flower-buds. When those pots were well 
filled with roots, the plants would be shifted 
into their flowering pots 32's or 6 inch pots 

using the same description of compost. 
When shifting into these, the only difference 
in the potting would be that the soil would 
he well rammed, as firmness tends to check 
coarse root action and wood growth. Once 
fail ly rooted into these pots, the plants, early 
iu July, should be stood quite 12 inches apart 
outdoors, fully exposed to the sun, and on a 
firm floor of ashes. Should there be any 
danger of worms getting into the pots, then 
best stand the plants on boards. Whilst the 
plants are so exposed they should be regularly 
watered, and have now and then some weak 
liquid-manure. Occasional pinching of the 
points of shoots and all flower-buds should be 
practised up to the beginning of September, 
the plants being now and then turned round, 
that both sides may enjoy the sun’s rays. 

Early in October the plants should be got 
into the greenhouse, the front row on a level 
stage standing on the trellis, and back rows 
elevated on inverted pots. Soon bloom 
comes, and in four weeks the plants arc in 
full flower, and presenting in gentle warmth 
objects of beauty not readily excelled. To 
have good pot plants for the summer, cut¬ 
tings should already be rooted, or in process 
cf being so. Shifted in March into 60 sized 
pots, and stood on an upper shelf, they grow 
rapidly, and in a few weeks need shifting into 
5-inch pots, and later, when well rooted in 
those, into 7-inch pots, using a compost 
as previously advised. If during growth 
strong shoots be a few times pinched to in¬ 
duce a bushy habit, and bloom-buds also 
picked off. the plants, with occasional doses 
of liquid-manure, become, by the late summer 
and autumn, beautiful^qwimens. f 



NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Plants for cold-house — I have a cold green¬ 
house, and would like to make the most of it. What 
would you recommend In the way of plants? Do you 
think that the gold and silver Ferns would do in a 
Wardian case in the house, and must they have heat? 
What Ferns would do in a Wardian case in the house 
where, presumably, the temperature would be above 
that prevailing in a cold greenhouse?—J. B. 1*. 

[By a cold greenhouse we conclude that you 
mean a structure totally without artificial 
heat. If so, all the subjects must, be praeti 
rally hardy. If the time were now Oetoljer 
we could recommend various spring-flowering 
bulbs, such as Hyacinths, Crocuses, Narcissi, 
Tulips, etc., but all these shouLd have been 
potted at least two months ago. This is, 
however, just the season to obtain Lily bulbs, 
which should lx» potted at once. The best 
for pot culture for the greenhouse are Lilium 
auratum, Lilium Browni, Lilium elegans, 
Lilium longiflorum, and Lilium speciosum. 
The different members of the Primrose family 
will also develop their flowers in a satisfac¬ 
tory manner with a little glass protection. 
The same remark applies to the Lyre Flower 
(Dielytra epectabilis). several Saxifrages, 
Wallflowers, hardy Cyclamens, Christmas 
Roses, Spiraeas, and many others. Hardy 
shrubs, such as Azaleas, Rhododendrons, 
Lilacs, Spiraea confusa, Primus of sorts, and 
similar things will, in such a structure, anti 
cipate their usual season of blooming, and, 
of course, at that time will be much appre¬ 
ciated. For summer the better way will be 
to consult the advertisement columns of 
Gardening Illustrated about the month 
of May, and make a selection of such con¬ 
tinuous flowering subjects as Fuchsias, 
Pelargoniums of various classes. Petunias, 
Cannas, etc., which, if young, thrifty plants 
are obtained, will keep up a display till 
autumn. Some of the earlv-flowering Chrys¬ 
anthemums, too, will be useful, but the late 
ones will not develop without fire-heat. Dwarf 
Roses, such as White Pet, Baby Dorothy, 
Mme. N. Levavasseur, Pacquerette, and 
others make good pot-plants for the green¬ 
house. For dealers in hardy Ferns the bet¬ 
ter way will be to consult the advertisement 
columns of this paper. The Gold and Silver 
Ferns are not likely to succeed in a Wardian 
ease in the dwelling house, ns to keep them 
in good condition a light, buoyant atmos¬ 
phere is very necessary. This can only be 
done where there is a regular amount of fire- 
heat. A selection for a Wardian case would 
include Adiantum assimile, A. capillus- 
Veneris, A. decorum, A. fulvum, A. formo- 
sum, Asplenium bulbiferum. Asplenium 
Colensoi, Davallia bullata, Davallia canari- 
ensis, Davallia Marieai, Davallia Tyermani, 
Doodia aspera, Onyehium auratum. Pteris 
erotica albo-lineata, Pteris leptophylla, and 
Pteris serrulata in variety.] 

Hippeastrum species — I should esteem it n 
favour if you would, through the columns of Garden¬ 
ing, tell me the different species cultivated, not the 
hybrids of Hippeastrum, also where they may lie ob¬ 
tained, and where I may obtain seeds of the choice 
hybrids.—J. B. I’. 

[As many of the species of Hippeastrum 
cross and intercross so readily, the original 
species have, in some eases at leaBt, almost, 
if not quite, disappeared. The following, 
however, have been in cultivation within the 
last few years, hut we are sorry that we can¬ 
not tell you where they can be obtained : — 
Hippenstruin advenum, aulieum, bicolor, 
bifidum, brachyandrum, equestre, Leopoldi, 
pardinum, pratense, proeerum, psittacinum, 
Regime, reticulatum, Roezli, solandra?florum, 
stylosum, and vittatum. If you wish to ob¬ 
tain these species, your better plan will be to 
apply to a reliable nursery firm, giving them 
instructions to obtain for von as many of 
these species os possible. The most noted 
raisers of hybrids in this country ainon" 
nurserymen are Messrs. James Veiteli and 
Son, of Chelsea, and Messrs. R. P. Ker and 
Co., of Liverpool. Both supply seed of their 
respective strains.] 

Begonia Moonlight.— During a recent 
visit to Kew, I came across a flowering speci¬ 
men of this one-time old favourite, which 
appears to have now almost dropped out of 
cultivation. It was raised by the late Colonel 
Clarke, oF Daventry, many years ago, be¬ 
tween Begonia Dregei (a pretty white- 
flowered South African species, remarkable 
-as being one of the parents of B. Glnire do 


Lorraine) and the tuberous-rooted B. Pearcei, 
to which we are indebted for the yellow' and 
orange shades so prevalent among the tuber¬ 
ous-rooted varieties. In B. Moonlight the 
dark green, prettily marked foliage of B. 
Pearcei is to a great extent retained, while 
the flowers are of a creamy-white or pale 
yellow tint. It would make a good com¬ 
panion for the universally-grcnvn Gloire de 
Lorraine, its cultural requirements being 
much the same. Thirty years ago I used to 
grow it extensively, and found that, like the 
last-named variety, if propagated from cut¬ 
tings of the flowering shoots the young 
plants would not grow' in a satisfactory 
manner; but if partially rested, the shoots 
then pushed up from the base would grow 
freely. Begonia Moonlight was given a first- 
class certificate by the Roval Horticultural 
Society in 1876, and at tliat time it used 
to be grown in considerable numbers in the 
old gardens of the Royal Horticultural So¬ 
ciety at Chiswick. Another variety raised 
by Colonel Clarke attained a greater popu¬ 
larity than Moonlight. This was Welton- 
iensis, a rather upright-growing plant, with 
prettily marbled leaves, red stems and flower- 
stalks, and show'y pink blossoms. Thirty 
years ago it was largely grow'n for market.— 
X. 

Eranthemum pulchellum.- Botanists tell 
us that the correct name of this beautiful 
blue-flowered Aeanthad is Diedalacanthus 
nervosus, blit the name at the head of this 
note is too firmly fixed in gardens to be 
readily eliminated. Furthermore, it has the 
advantage of being far more pleasing than the 
other. This Eranthemum is a plant of very 
easy propagation and culture, and if cuttings 
are struck in the spring they may throughout 
the summer be grown in an ordinary garden 
frame. This treatment has one great ad¬ 
vantage. inasmuch as insect pests will, under 
such conditions, give little or no trouble, 
wdiereas if exposed to too much fire-heat 
thrips are very apt to attack the leaves, and 
quickly disfigure them. Being a native of 
India, the plants of this Eranthemum will, of 
course, by the end of August require a little 
fire-heat, and throughout the winter a struc¬ 
ture with a minimum temperature of 50 degs. 
is necessary for their well-doing. If they 
have been grown fairly cool throughout the 
summer, even a few plants will keep up a 
succession of their beautiful Gentian blue 
flowers for a considerable time. Its colour¬ 
ing is exceedingly attractive, and so distinct 
that there is nothing else among warm-house 
winter-flowering plants that can Ive compared 
with it.—G. S. C. 

Crowea saligna. Introduced from New 
South Wales in 1790, this Crowea was a 
popular plant in the olden days, hut at the 
present time it. is decidedly uncommon. It 
was, however, noted in good condition during 
a recent visit to Kew, where it formed a very 
pleasing feature in the greenhouse. As a 
late autumn and early winter flowering sub¬ 
ject it is valuable. It forms a little shrub 
whose branches are clothed with Willow-like 
leaves, from the axils of which are produced 
solitary flowers of a delightful shade of pink. 
A second species, C. angustifolia. which 
flowers in the spring, has been several times 
shown within the last few years, and two or 
three seasons ago it was given an award of 
merit by the Royal Horticultural Society. 
This has very narrow leaves, and pink, starry 
blossoms. These Croweas need careful treat¬ 
ment, especially on their own roots, for. 
strange to say, they succeed better if grafted 
on to Correa alba or a vigorous growing 
Eriostemon. They need a compost princi¬ 
pally consisting of peat, with the addition of 
a little loam and silver sand. A greenhouse 
temperature with a free circulation of air is 
very necessary to their well-doing.—X. 

Diplacus gliitinosus. —This is a plant not nearly 
jo well known as it deserves to be. It may be used 
as a pot plant in the greenhouse, as the tenant of ;i 
hanging-basket, or as a partial trailer or creencr for 
wall or roof, and, besides this, it may he brought into 
requisition for planting out in the summer. A Mimu- 
lus-like blossom, its colour—a .salmon-huff—is unique, 
ami its slight fragrance and prodigality of flowering 
mnke it u favourite wherever it is taken in hand. 
The Diplacus is a capital subject for a window in 
summer, and will flower for weeks together. Easily 
raised from cuttings of half-ripened wood, it is a 
plant worthy of more attentjon than is accorded it 
to-day. Cuttings placed in heat in spring are not long 
in taking root, and the young plants bloom wHl iu 
August and Roptember - Tow xshan. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



January 4, 190S 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


5D3 


ROSES, 

LARGE-FLOWERED HYBRID PER¬ 
PETUAL ROSES. 

Perhaps the raising of so many email- 
flowered decorative Roses has been overdone j 
so much so, that there seems a tendency on 
the part of the public to return to the larger- 
flowered varieties, whilst a certain section is 
even going to the other extreme, and is ask¬ 
ing for the extra large-flowered sorts. There 
can be no doubt that a big flower always en¬ 
sures considerable notice. This I observed 
was the case quite recently at the Royal 
Horticultural Hall, when a huge flower of 
William Shean was exhibited. Although this 
superb variety does not come under our head¬ 
ing, one cannot but allude to it as being a 
variety of tho greatest excellence. The illus¬ 
tration represents a very fine novelty in the 
Hybrid Perpetual group, and is named Dr. 
William Gordon. It is a Rose that those 
who exhibit and those who do not will wel¬ 
come. Those who saw the pot-grown speci¬ 
mens at the great Temple Flower Show were 


this Rose. I have had moderately pruned 
bushes yielding lovely flowers lately, and there 
is less tendency of the growths to run away 
so strong as they sometimes will do. I well 
remember the advent of Gustave Piganeau, 
and I thought then it would have been a 
favourite, but somehow it docs not please. 
The colour is dull, and the growth very poor, 
although on own roots it seems a success. I 
shall never forget the first time the late Mr. 
Henry Bennett exhibited that giant Rose Her 
Majesty at the Fisheries Exhibition. He 
brought up some dozens of blooms and tall 
pot-grown plants to show its vigour. If one 
would see Her Majesty best, grow it as a 
standard or half-standard. I remember once 
seeing two or three tows of bushes at Mrs. 
Waterlow’s garden, Reigate, and they were 
simply marvellous. Although very subject to 
mildew, one must grow the variety for its 
superb beauty. 

Rev. Alan Cheales has been particularly 
fine this season, and, strange to say, a num¬ 
ber of the blossoms have been flaked like a 
I Carnation. It is a grand John Hopper sort 
I of Rose. 


flowers of that rich salmon-pink as to make 
it the best Rose of its colour. 

Countess of Oxford is yet another extra 
large Rose. The colour is a dark carmine- 
red. Its wood is quite smooth, evidently be¬ 
longing to the scentless Victor Verdier race. 

There are several other of these large- 
flowered Roses which I cannot describe now, 
but I may mention a few, such as Caroline 
d’Arden, most fragrant ; Mme. Warden, a fine, 
sweet sport from that old Rase, Mine. Cle- 
mence Joigneaux ; Anna de Dieshach, 
Etienne Levet, and its fine sport, Duke of 
Fife, Francois Michelon, Mrs. John Laing. 
Jeannie Dickson, Magna Charta, Ulster, Star 
of Waltham, Suzanne Marie Rodocanachi, 
Oscar Cordel, Ulrich Brunner, etc. All cf 
! those suitably grouped in a very large border, 
or bed, would be quite a feature, and would 
lead to many of these old sorts being more 
often seen._ Rosa. 

ROSES FOR SCREENS. 

Very often in and about suburban gardens 
we find that nearly every year some provision 
has to be made to make screens, in order to 



Rose Dr. William Gordon. 


impressed with the variety, and it will evi¬ 
dently be a fine variety for culture under 
glass. The summer flowers are superb, a fine 
deep and large bloom of a lovely satin-pink 
colour, the outer petals at times being a rich 
rose-pink. Although not so large as Paul 
Neyron, this variety may certainly be 
grouped with the large-flowered Hybrid Per- 
petuals. I should say exhibitors will find Dr. 
William Gordon a welcome addition to back- 
row flowers, as it comes intermediate between 
Mme. G. Luizet and Mrs. John Laing. The 
growth is vigorous, but less straggling than 
in both of these Roses. 

I mentioned Paul Neyron just now. One 
never sees this Rose so grand as it is in the 
autumn. Its huge Pseony-like blossoms arc 
then very fine. Another Rose of equal pro¬ 
portions is Mine. Joseph Bonnaire. It has 
the same huge flower as Paul Neyron, blit of 
a delicate shade of blush-pink, more like the 
tint of Mrs. Sbarman Crawford. 

Frau Katsl Druschki is in every garden 
now, surely. I believe this originally was 
shown under the name of Snow Queen, and, 
surely, no better name could have been found 
for it. I am inclined to<tb»nk we over prune 

Digitized by GOOglC 


Mme. Eugene Fremy is another huge sort 
with flattish rose-coloured flowers, very good 
and distinct. I always love to see that grand 
II.P., Mme. Eugene Verdier, with its deep, 
Cabbage-like flowers of a lovely pink colour. 

I It is quite one of the large Roses, and grand 
I where it will succeed, which is not in all 
gardens. 

| Marchioness of Londonderry is an im- 
| mense flower, but its greyish-white colour is 
not very attractive, although when half open 
| it is superb. It is a strange sort in growth, 
doubtless a hybrid—but from what? Perhaps 
I Victor Verdier. 

Crimson Queen, if only for ils delicious 
! fragrance, should be grown. It is an immense 
flower, produced on a shrub-like bush ; the 
| form of flower not at all attractive, but the 
' glowing velvety-crimson is grand. 

Hugh Dickson can surely come into this 
| group we are considering, for it is a fine 
flower, apart from its radiant blossoms; pos¬ 
sibly, one of the ten best Roses of the last 
twenty years. 

Pride of Waltham, when grown as year¬ 
ling plants on seedling Brier, bears such grand 


| secure privacy, or to shut out from view 
I some object that is somewhat unsightly. 
Where the conditions are favourable in the 
matter of atmosphere and soil, what more 
beautiful or quicker, growing subjects can 
one have than Roses? Much has appeared 
! of late in Gardening Illustrated concern* 

! ing the Rose Dorothy Perkins, but, in my 
] opinion, not too much has been said in its 
favour, for, from experience and observation, 
it is one of the best of its kind for rapidly 
covering arches, walls, and screens. Indeed, 
1 think it is in the latter capacity that it is 
| likely to be most valued. I know many 
| people who thought Crimson Rambler was an 
ideal Rose, but who now have transferred 
most of their affection to Dorothy Perkins, 
and no wonder, for its colour is a charming 
pink, and when it does fade, it is equally 
pretty irt its lighter tint. 

I notice that we are to have a white 
Dorothy Perkins shortly. All I can say is 
that if it possesses the same habit and free¬ 
dom of blooming as the first named, it should 
prove an acquisition. It! is not too late to 
make|screens, and-those constructed of wood, 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


I 




694 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. January 4, 1008 


to which any sort of climbers take kindly, 
are to be preferred, and stout Hazel poles will 
be found to answer as well as any. There is 
another good Hose which ought not to be 
overlooked—I refer to Climbing Caroline 
Tcstout, which i9 just as free flowering ns 
the dwarf sort bearing that, name, and that 
is saying a good deal, for it is one of the 
earliest and latest in the garden. 

WOODBASTWICK. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Roses for cutting. -Will you please Rive me a 
selection of Roses for cutting and decoration for a 
piece of ground 12 feet by 12 feet, soil medium loam, 
open aspect, sun from six a.m. till five p.m., also 
three climbers for a close-boarded fence, 50 feet 
long by 6 feet high, also three Clematises for same, 
three Ramblers for art lies, and three Clematises for 
^imt*? My intention is to have a Rose on one side 
and a Clematis on the other, also three Roses for 
pillars. 1 have already Caroline Test out and Ur ues 
an Tcplitz.— Wimbledon. 

[The piece of ground 112 feet by 12 feet will 
take about fifty bushes, planted about 
1 H inches apart. As you desire good free- 
flowering sorts for cutting and decoration, we 
should advise you to plant two each of the 
following well proved varieties: — White and 
blush: Frau Karl Drusohki. Souv. de la Mal- 
maisoii, Pharisaer, and Viscountess Folke¬ 
stone. Yellow nnd cream : I>r. Grill, Lady 
Roberts, Mine. Hoste, and Mme. liavary. 
Pale, junk: La France, Mme. E. Metz, and 
Mme. Abel Chatenay. Dose: Lady Battersea 
and Mme. Jules Grolez. Crimson, light and 
dark: General Jacqueminot, Liberty, Ulrich 
Brunner, Commandant Felix Faure, Earl of 
Pembroke, Victor Hugo, and Jubilee. Poly- 
antha and China: Eugenie Lamesch, Perle 
d’Or, and Aurore. Three good free-blooming 
climbing sorts for the fenee would be Fran¬ 
cois Crousse, Lady Waterlow. Mme. Hector 
Leuilliot; and three Clematises for same. 
Purpurea elegans, Mrs. Geo. Jackman, and 
Nelly Moser. For the arches three good 
Ramblers are Dorothy Perkins, Hiawatha, 
and Felicite-Perpetue ; and three Clematises 
for same, Jackmani, Henryi, and Lady C. 
Neville. Throe good Roses for pillars are 
Ards Pillar, Climbing Mrs. W. J. Grant, and 
Frau Karl Druschki. 


GARDEN PESTS AND FRIENDS. 

NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Gooseberry mildew. —The Hoard of Agriculture, 
with a view to preventing tlie further spread of the 
Arnerienn UooM-birry mildew, have issued an order 
prohibiting tin* importation of any Gooseberry-bush 
or Currant-bush. The order came into force on Dt*- 
ornher 19th. hut it will not apply to any hush im¬ 
ported on or before January 31st next, if a license is 
obtained from the Hoard of Agriculture and is pro¬ 
duced to any officer of Customs when the plant is 
landed. The order applies to cuttings, stocks, and 
seedlings, but not to fruit, and the maximum penalty 
for contravention upon conviction is £10. The Ameri¬ 
can mildew first, made its appearance in Ireland in 
19U0, and since then has appeared in various parts of 
Knglnnd, chiefly in Gloucestershire and Worcester¬ 
shire. 

American-blight. To most gardeners this 
is very familiar among Apples in garden aud 
orchard, and when present there is sure to 
be much hark injury, and, if left alone, pos¬ 
sibly early collapse of the free from canker. 
Some gardens seem to l>e much more addicted 
to the uttaok of American-blight than others, 
hut if war is waged against it in winter it may 
l>e kept in cheek, if not quite got rid of. 
Though I have not used it, 1 understand that 
neat’s foot-oil is an excellent cure for this 
pest, and which inflicts no injury on the trees. 
Tar preparations are. or have been, reliable 
destroyers of the “blight,” when well brushed 
into tin* bark crevices. Hot. soap-suds I have 
applied with effect, especially when a little 
|x*troIeum has been added and kept well 
mixed, to prevent it floating on the surface*. 
Caustic alkali solution, the now familiar 
winter wash, acts quickly when applied with n 
brush. A paint-brush, old or new, and con¬ 
venient. in size, will lx? found a handy tool for 
dealing with American blight. Soluble petro¬ 
leum preparations, with warm water added, 
can be easily applied with such a brush, em¬ 
ploying no more than is actually needed to 
6 oak the crevices in which the woolly aphis 
is found. Now that the trees are bare, and 
at rest, opportunity should l>e at once taken 
to wrestle with this pest. Tt will he neces¬ 
sary to examine th^Wected tree! later, in 

Digitized by VjOOgle 


order to arrest stray insects that may have 
escaped the first dressing. It does not matter 
much which of the several forms of prepara¬ 
tion is used, so long as it is thoroughly ap¬ 
plied, and a look-out kept for stray insects 
which from any cause escape. The past sea¬ 
son seems to have been a particularly favour¬ 
able one for the spread of American-blight.— 
W. S. 


ROOM AND WINDOW. 

CUT FLOWERS IN THE HOUSE. 

The resources of the garden have never been 
called into requisition for the supply of cut 
flowers more than they are at the present 
time. In many cases this is a severe tax 
upon the gardener in more ways than one. 
The great evil of relying on quantity to pro¬ 
duce olTeet by overcrowding the flowers in 
their receptacles should be studiously guarded 
against. Not only do they thus detract from 
the beauty of each other, but the water from 
which they derive their sustenance is the 
sooner exhausted. Flowers when cut should 
he arranged as soon ns possible, and never 
exposed meanwhile to sharp currents of air. 
When the arrangement cannot he seen to at 
once, the flowers should be temporarily kept 
in a cool place, being, if possible, put into 
water also for the time being. If they are 
allowed to suffer nt such times, the rccupera 
live powers are not in every case sufficient to 
restore them to their proper eondition. Some 
flowers will not last so well as others in a 
warm room, or one in which gas is used ; 
such as are of thin texture belong chiefly to 
this category. At no time should flowers be 
placed too near a fire if their lasting proper¬ 
ties are to he studied ; a mantelpiece with a 
fire below it is as bad a place as can be 
selected. Flowers may be kept in better con¬ 
dition by using rain-water. When this can¬ 
not be obtained, a little charcoal is an as¬ 
sistance. and some recommend either common 
salt or a few pieces of saltpetre to bo used. 

In the re-arrangement of flowers there is 
room for economy in many instances. It 
docs not often happen that all are unfit for 
future use; such as can be used over again 
by picking off faded portions, and by outline 
ofT a small piece of the stem, should be pre¬ 
served. Flowers sent a distance either by 
post or rail should, immediately they are re¬ 
ceived, be inserted into a good amount of water 
and allowed to remain thus for a time until 
revived, then arranged in the vases intended 
to receive them. Flowers are not made so 
much of as they might otherwise bo, from 
want of sufficient. Fern or other foliage to as¬ 
sociate with them. This may occur through 
the supply being limited. Such a case can 
be readily excused ; not so, however, when i* 
can be had and advantage is not taken of it. 
A good supply of Maiden-hair and other Fern 
fronds, particularly the Davallias, is always 
an essential aid ; so also are the handsome 
plumes of Asparagus plumosu.s nanus, and the 
slender shoots of A. tenuissimus and those of 
Myrsiphvllum asparagoides. Of hardy foliage, 
that of Malionia (Berberis) Aquifolia, with 
its bronzy tints, is invaluable for arranging 
with white, yellow, or bronzy colours. Azara 
microphylla and Cotoneaster mierophylla ran 
he turned to good account, ns also many of 
the finer leaves and shoots of the Ivies. 
Ornamental Grasses are also of signal ser¬ 
vice; only those who have used them know 
their true value. During the latter part of 
tlie season, when many of the deciduous trees 
and shrubs are clothed in their brilliant 
autumnal tints, there is no lack of material 
which may be turned to n good account. In 
the winter season a good supply oT Selaginelln 
denticulata and Panicum variegatum. with 
such beautiful-leaved plants as the variegated 
forms of Begonias, the silvery variegated 
Fittonia argyroneura, and the bronzy- 
coloured Cyrtodeira fulgida nnd C. metnllica 
will form beautiful subjects for a groundwork 
upon which to arrange flowers in any flat 
and rather broad receptacles, such as are 
generally used for dinner-table decorations. 
In nil kinds of arrangements, a good ground¬ 
work of foliage is of the highest importance. 
Only those who have practised it can form a 
true and correct value of its benefits, nnd the 
economy which it affords in the amount of 
flowers used. 


OUTDOOR PLANT* 

MUNICIPAL GARDENING. 

To the Editor of Gardening Illustrated. 

Sir, —Gardening lias become of late years so 
popular that it is time municipal authorities 
took their opportunities in this matter more 
seriously. Even from the financial side it 
would pay to provide in public gardens for 
the lovers of the higher horticulture. It is 
a sign of the times that there have been more 
books on gardening published in the last 
decade than there were in the fifty years 
previous. As for the journals devoted to the 
subject, I can remember when two or three 
occupied the field ; now their name is legion. 
Even the daily papers give special columns 
on gardening. 

It is on rock gardening that I wish to say 
a few words in connection with Harrogate. 
Great numbers of people visit this town fur 
many reasons, hut though the municipal au¬ 
thorities no doubt do what they can in the 
way of laying out their grounds, I submit 
they have never attempted to do artistic 
work. The possibilities are many. The 
climate and soil, and the abundance of grit¬ 
stone rock, make it only a question of a 
Little time and application of known facts to 
make the Harrogate Gardens of world-wide 
reputation. Take the Valley Gardens first. 
Here you will find nil the natural advantages 
for rock and water gardening. And yet none 
of the existing opportunities or material have 
been utilised. At considerable expense of 
labour and money, paths have been lined 
with rocks, but these have l>een eo laid that 
plants get no chance of living and thriving. 
Nearly all the stones have been placed ver¬ 
tically, instead of horizontally aud in strata, 
with plenty of root room behind and between. 
It is heart-rending to contemplate the reck¬ 
less waste of rock material which is apparent. 
A stream finds its way down the Valley Gar¬ 
dens and the hanks of this might be made a 
home for myriads of plants, which only re¬ 
quire to be left from year to year to increase 
and multiply. There are several swans which 
would have to he transferred to other spheres 
of usefulness. At present, in my opinion, 
they nre quite out of place, and their func¬ 
tion seems principally to dirty the water of 
the shallow stream I have mentioned. In 
fact, if it were desired to show “how not to 
do it," in respect to rockwork, I can com 
mend Harrogate as a most glaring illustra¬ 
tion. Perhaps the best example is a re¬ 
cently-constructed mound near the Bath 
Hospital, peppered with shrubs and peaked 
stones, laid on the tombstone system. All 
the rain must descend the sides of this shock¬ 
ing erection like a cataract, carrying with it 
the earth and moisture which are meant for 
the nourishment of the plants. The only 
thing to be said in connection with this fear¬ 
some object is that there is an effort to dis* 
play some form of plant life, though tie 
choice and arrangement are wretched. 

In other parts of Harrogate the visitor will 
come across some splendid specimens of 
rocks piled together without, the vestige of 
anything growing upon them. For example, 
there is an ideal plot of land just above the 
Old Sulphur Well which, properly treated, 
could be made a delightful home for rock 
plants. There is plenty of other equally 
attractive spots on the West Front where 
splendid work of this character could be 
carried out. Even supposing rock gardening 
is not entertained, why should there not 
Ik? some progress in the cultivation of her¬ 
baceous plants? T examined not long ago 
an alleged herbaceous border just under 
the Grand Hotel. The poverty of specimens 
was depressing. The mark of the jobbing 
gardener was over it nil. Indeed, the 
mechanical rule of the despotic and tasteless 
jobbing gardener holds absolute sway in 
Harrogate, both in private and municipal 
gardens. I allude particularly to the per¬ 
sistent cutting back and maiming of young 
trees. 

As a proof of what can be done, I can 
mention a most delightful little piece of 
rock gardening in York-road, which, small 
as it. is, should be copied by the gardening 
committee of the Town Council. In the 
spring and summer il was blazing witTi colour 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



January i , 1D0S 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


695 




ami rejoicing the wayfarer with its variety 
of bloom and foliage. Or, if they desire to 
go farther afield, let them visit the rock 
garden formed by the Vicar of Ripley, not 
three miles off. There, in miniature, they 
will sec what can l>e done by the love of gar¬ 
dening, the application of brains and 

knowledge. I venture to say that it is quite 


Campanula punctata. 


passible in three years to produce in Harro¬ 
gate a municipal rock garden which would 
act as a magnet to hundreds of visitors who 
would otherwise pass by on the other side. 

TFnrrngntc. Arabia. 

[We quite agree with our correspondent as 
to the general effects, and when at Harro¬ 
gate last year were much struck by the beauty 
of the grounds in possession of the town. Rut 
what struck us most was the disfiguring of the 
beautiful evergreens which thrive in the 
place, many of the. Hollies being cut into 
the shape of inverted basins, destructive of all 
light, and shade, and beauty. The govern¬ 
ing body of the place might do worse than 
send their shearing gardeners to some wild 
woodland fence to see the Holly in its 
natural beauty at. this season, full of beauti¬ 
ful light and shade and splendid fruit, and 
often very fine in form. They would see that 
then shearing destroys all beauty, and it is a 
very bad example, moreover, in a public 
garden, because leading so many amateurs to j 
follow the same hideous practice.—E d.] 

CAMPANULA FUNCTATA. 

The plant, known to botanists by the above 
somewhat descriptive specific name is most 
frequently to be found in the catalogues of 
hardy plant nurserymen under the name of 
C. nobilis, but the origin of the name is not 
clear. Among the summer-flowering kinds | 
it is one of the most distinct, and blooms 
during July and August. Until well estab- | 
lisbed, the plant flowers but sparsely, but 
when a compact tuft is formed, it is one of 
the most striking of the Bell-flowers. This I 
sparse flowering is due to the spreading root 
system of the species, the underground 
shoots extending to a foot or more from the 
central stem, and, rising to the surface, form 
a small rosette of roughish ovate-cordate 
leaves. In the second or third season other 
stoloniferous growths appear, and in this way | 
a really good tuft may he formed. I make 
special mention of this characteristic spread 
of the root system, because it were better 
that the plant be gjlfen*room anxLifc'HPiR 0 *! 


ggrj an^it 


to occupy its allotted space. This spreading , 
root system must not be taken to be of a I 
weedy or aggressive character, and a more 
compact flowering may be hastened by pro¬ 
viding a hemmed-in epace, say, of 2 feet 
diameter. The species is not very fas¬ 
tidious as to soil, but does best where the 
root-run is cool and moist. In the case of 
clay soils the addition of vege¬ 
table matter will be of much 
assistance. As will be seen by 
the illustration accompanying 
these notes, the pendulous blos¬ 
soms are of large size, and are, 
in fact, 3 inches or more in 
length. The colour is whitish, 
freely spotted with purple or 
chocolate internally. As the 
general character of the blos¬ 
soms is well shown in the pic¬ 
ture, no further description 
would appear necessary. I have 
seen it stated that the above- 
named species does not seed, 
but a personal experience of 
some years is quite opposed to 
such a statement. Ah a matter 
of fact, the species is one of the 
most variable when raised from 
seeds that I am acquainted 
with. Besides the dirty white 
flowers of the typical plant, 
there are others of varying' 
shades of rosy-lilac. I have also 
seen in the past a variety of 
this species with flowers of a 
deep chocolate-brown, perhaps 
the mast striking and effective 
of the group. 

There are two other Bell¬ 
flowers which, by reason of their 
grow th, I would like to associate 
with the above. Their names 
are C. Van Houttei and C. 
Burghalti. In the Kew Hand¬ 
list of Hardy Plants, these are 
included under C. latifolia, and 
it is not improbable that this 
and C. punctata are the parents 
of these good garden forms, 
while, iT judged by external evidences alone, 
they lean strongly to the last-named aperies. 
For freedom and profuseness of flowering, 
these plants are unequalled, and established 
masses of them keep up a supply of the huge 
pendulous blossoms for weeks together. In C. 
Vail Houttei the colour is pale lavender-blue ; 
in C. Burghalti the colour is delicate rosy, 
lilac when the blossoms are fully open. The 
last-named plant I have not known to produce 
seeds—indeed, as far as I know', it is quite 
sterile. In both instances, however, increase 
by division is rendered easy by the free 
ground-growth of the plants. Early spring is 
the best time for planting, and where the 
soil is of a heavy, adhesive nature, some 
light material should he added to the roots at 
planting time. E. Jenkins. 

Larkspurs for dry places. 

—If I had to deal with an 
exceptionally dry place in a 
garden, and desired it to 
look beautiful, I would cer¬ 
tainly try annual Lark¬ 
spurs. I recently saw' a bed 
of them. The soil—if soil 
it can ho called—was com¬ 
posed mostly of sand, and 
a little loam had been added 
to improve it. In this the 
seeds had been sown in 
April, thinned out to the 
required number, and the 
single ones as they came in 
bloom discarded, with the 
result that the remaining 
had sufficient room to grow. 

The flowers possess beau¬ 
tiful colours, rivalling, in 
the opinion of some, Ten-Week Stocks, and 
certainly last in better condition longer. 
The dwarf sorts are specially nice for beds 
where it is desired to have small things, but 
the tall, branching varieties ought not to be 
overlooked. Anyone who has been disap¬ 
pointed with other plants failing in dry 
places should give the annual Larkspurs a 


trial. Seed can also be sown in the autumn ; 
but in that case it should be in a sheltered 
place, as very often the seedlings damp off 
in winter. When it is borne in mind that 
seed can be sown in the open ground in April, 
and that such plants flower in July, there is 
not very much to he said in favour of an 
autumn sowing.— Leahurst. 


GYPSOPHILA. 

In these days when cut bloom plays so large 
a part in the home, the Gypsophila has taken 
a foremost place among the hardy plants 
grown for cutting, its profuse heads of tiny 
flowers giving grace to various forms of de¬ 
coration. Many years before it was well 
known in this country it was valued upon the 
Continent for dried bouquets, but of late 
years the various kinds have perhaps been as 
largely grown in this country ns anywhere, 
vast quantities of the commoner kinds being 
raised for market. In addition to the holder 
kinds grown for cutting, there are several 
pretty kinds of trailing habit, such as ecras- 
tioides, lihanotica, repens, and prostrata, and 
the pretty little annual species, G. muralis. 
Gypsophila elegans, now so much grown for 
cutting in early summer, is also an annual 
remarkable for its rapid growth. Gypsophila 
paniculata docs not flower until the middle 
of July, but by growing Gypsophila Steveni 
and Gypsophila Rokejeka, both somewhat 
similar in general effect, the season may be 
prolonged, Steveni flowering earlier and 
Rokejeka a little later than paniculata. 
Where they do w r ell the strong-growing kinds 
are sometimes too vigorous for the kept 
border, and are then best used for gaps 
among 6hrubs or for bold groups of mist-like 
effect in the wilder parts of the garden. 

The Gypsophilas are plants of Europe and 
Asin, belonging to the Stitchwort family, and 
numbering fifty to sixty species, of which 
only a small number is grown in gardens. 
They are of very slender growth, with scanty 
foliage and much-branched flower-heads, 
t upon which the tiny blossoms hang together 
upon stems so fine as to have earned the 
name of Lace Flowers and Summer Cloud. 

| They are all hardy in free and fertile soils, 
growing freely in open and rather dry places. 

! where they should be let alone as far as pos¬ 
sible. The following kinds are in cultiva¬ 
tion : — 

G. CERA8TIOIDES. This distinct hardy 
kind (here figured) from the North of India, 
forms little tufts only 3 inches high, which 
are a sheet, of flowers in May and June. The 
flowers vary in size and colour, but are 
larger than in most kinds, being about hnlf- 
I an-incli across and freely produced in small 
clusters. They are white or pale-lilac in 
colour with reddish-purple veins upon the 
petals and purple shading on the under side, 
or sometimes netted all over with reddish- 
purple. A little gem for the rock-garden, it 
I is best planted in broad patches, drooping 


Gypsophila cerastioides. 


| prettily over bare ledges, and growing fast in 
a sunny place and in deep soil. Seed and 
cuttings. 

G. elegans. —A pretty annual species of 
12 inches to 18 inches high, much grown for 
its delicate heads of rosy-white flowers borne 
throughout, the summer. The plants grow' 
yepj fast, and—for early floors seed may he 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 






590 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


JaxuarV 4, 1903 


raised in heat and the young plants put out 
in April ; a succession of bloom is secured by 
sowing later in the open. Light, rich soil 
and abundant moisture are essential, for the 
plant is shallow-rooted and soon suffers from 
drought. By sowing seeds in August and 
keeping tho young plants very cool under 
glass in winter, they may be flowered in pots 
as early as April and May, and are then use¬ 
ful for the greenhouse and conservatory, 
drown in the open, the flowers last a long 
time in beauty, and are very effective in the 
front of the border. They are larger than in 
G. paniculnta. 

G. fastigiata. —An old kind, now rarely 
6 een in gardens, though a native of Europe. 
It grows about a foot high, with smooth and 
narrow leaves of a somewhat fleshy texture, 
and heads of pale-red flowers during summer. 

G. libanotica. —A pretty little plant of 
recent introduction, distinct and pleasing for 
the rock-garden. It makes neat tufts, with 
grey-green leaves each about lj- inches long, 
and dainty heads of pure-white flowers during 
late summer. Syria. 

G. muralis.— A graceful little annual kind 
from the mountains of Europe and the North 
of Asia, and pretty for edgings or as low 
tufts of about 9 inches on the rock-garden. 
These dense little mounds are of very deli¬ 
cate appearance, the fine stems branched in 
all directions and covered with narrow leaves 
and soft-pink flowers, which continue during a 
great part of summer. 

G. paniculata. —This, the best-known and 
most useful of all, is indis|>ensable where cut 
flowers are required in quantity. It does best 
in light, well-drained soil and a sunny place, 
growing 3 feet to 4 feet high, with narrow, 
sharply-pointed leaves of about 3 inches, be¬ 
coming smaller towards the tips of the stems. 
From the latter part of July and through 
August it bears a cloud of tiny, white flowers 
upon wiry, hair like stems, which serve to set 
off other flowers, and may be dried slowly in 
the shade for winter bouquets. The plant is 
hardy and may be increased from seed or 
from root-division in spring. It is a good 
plan to raise a few plants each year, for they 
do not flower freely until two or three years 
old, and old plants, after making a great 
root-stock, often go off suddenly and create a 
blank. Where much cut bloom is wanted, it 
is possible to hasten a few plants by putting 
them in sunny and sheltered positions, or 
where they can be protected by glass-lights 
for a time in spring. In some soils it becomes 
almost too vigorous for the border and should 
then be planted on warm banks and raised 
places of the wild-garden. Two garden varie¬ 
ties are now grown, compact a being a dwarf 
form with smaller flowers, and flore-pleno, a 
double-flowered form in which the tiny 
rosettes of pure-white are fully as graceful 
in effect and far more lasting. 

G. perfoliata (syn. G. sc-orzonerifolia).— 
A plant from the south-west of Europe, com¬ 
ing very near paniculata, but of slightly 
dwarfer habit, and bearing rosy-white flowers. 
It succeeds well even in town gardens. 

G. prostrata. —A lovely little evergreen 
trailer with grey-green foliage and white or 
pale-pink flowers in loosely-branching heads 
throughout the summer and autumn. It 
thrives in light soil and full sun, and is seen 
at its best among stones in the rock-garden. 
Easily raised from seed, but with difficulty 
from cuttings or divisions. Central Asia. G. 
repens often does duty for prostrata in 
gardens. 

G. Raddeana. —A perennial of very dwarf, 
tufted habit, with small, crowded leaves and 
pale-rosy flowers, which are lined with darker 
stripes. Persia. 

G. repens.— A little, creeping perennial, 
whose trailing stems rise erect at the tips, 
bearing narrow and sharp-pointed leaves 
and rather large white or pale-pink flowers. 
An improved form of stronger growth, with 
stems of about a foot high, and larger flowers, 
ami a very continuous bloomer, is grown 
under the name of repens monstrosa. 

G. Rokejeka.- A new and strong-growing 
plant of 3 feet, with spreading heads of rosy- 
white flowers coming late in summer. The 
stems are pretty for cutting, but not quite so 
graceful, from the larger size of the flowers. 

<1. Stevf.ni. A p/TPHnial kind flom the 

Digitized GOOglC 


Caucasus, of dwarfer growth than paniculata, 
and earlier in flower. The stems and foliage 
are of a pale grey-green, of spreading habit, 
the leaves narrow and keeled ; flowers white 
and larger than in paniculata, but carried in 
silvery heads that are smaller and denser. 


EVENING PRIMROSES (CENOTHERA). 
Among hardy plants, there are none of higher 
value than the Evening Primroses, giving ex¬ 
cellent effects when nghtlv used, while for 
the most part they are hardy, easy of culture 
and increase, and good in colour. They 
come in very well as groups in the flower- 
garden, are excellent for the mixed border, 
blooming from June onwards throughout the 
summer, some of them hardly ever out of 
bloom, and others flowering a second time 
in autumn. Their flowers are large and 
bright, and many of them sweet-scented ; seed 
is borne in quantity upon the tall-growing 
kinds, but less freely on tho prostrate plants. 
The larger kinds, if a little rough for the 
border, are beautiful when massed amongst 
shrubs, or in the wild garden. Nearly all 
bloom from seed the first year, if sown early. 

Among many species and seedling varieties 
of Evening Primrose, the following are the 
most useful kinds for gardens: — 

CE. cjespitosa (syn. G5. niarginata).—A 
dwarf perennial, G inches to 12 inches nigh, 
flowering in May, with blooms 4 inches to 
5 inches across, changing slowly from white 
to a pale rose ; as evening comes on they show 
well above the jagged leaves, and retain their 
beauty until morning. Increased by suckers 
from the roots, and by cuttings, which root 
readily. 

CE. Drummondi. —A fine annual, bearing 
yellow flowers, and growing from 18 inches to 
2 feet high. It is a useful kind for filling 
blanks in the flower garden, and also where 
annual plants are made a feature. Texas and 
the south-western States. 

CE. fruticosa. —This and its varieties ar«? 
good and showy perennials, 1 foot to 3 feet 
high, with bright yellow' blossoms. There 
are several varieties, the best being Youngi, 
about 2 feet high, and flowering freely. It 
is one of the best of yellow' Evening Prim¬ 
roses for small beds, for edgings, or as a 
groundwork for shrubs, growing freely in 
ordinary soil and of easy increase oy division. 

CE. GLAUCA.— A handsome plant of sub- 
shruhbv growth, and bearing yellow flowers. 
The variety Fraseri is a still finer plant, and 
where an attractive mass of yellow is desired 
through the summer, there are few hardy 
plants of easy culture so effective. Mountain 
woods in Virginia and Georgia. 

CE. Lamarckiana. —A tall, showy plant, 
growing 3 feet to 5 feet high, and of the high¬ 
est value for the garden, especially the wild 
garden, and to go with such plants as the 
Foxglove and the Mullein. It is a biennial, 
seeding freely, and should be sown yearly, 
especially in recently-broken-up ground. In 
books it is usually classed as a form of CE. 
biennis, but it is distinct from our point of 
view, and superior, the supposed mother- 
plant. not being worth growing. 

CE. MISSOUR1ENSIS (syn. CE. macrocarpa). 
—A handsome perennial, with prostrate 
stems and clear yellow flowers, each some¬ 
times 5 inches across. There is no more valu 
able border or rock-plant-, being easily grown 
and increased from seed or cuttings. The 
blooms open in the evening. 

CE. pu mila (syn. CE. riparia).—The most 
graceful kind, and, though bearing a small 
flower, it is a charming plant for the rock- 
garden or for stone or other edgings, yielding 
a succession of bloom throughout the summer 
and autumn. It is a perennial, and not diffi¬ 
cult to grow or increase. 

G5. specioha. —A first-rate perennial, from 
14 inches to 18 inches high, with many large 
flowers, nt first white, but changing to rose. 
The variety of this known as CE. s. rosea is 
a beautiful variety of this species, a plant of 
fine colour, and not often seen in gardens. It 
is certainly one of the finest of the Evening 
Primroses, forming a trailing mass of much- 
branohed. slender stems, bearing flowers of a 
bright, clear rose with darker lines, each 
1 inch to 11 inches across. It spreads rapidly 
into masses a yard or more across. It is fond 
of a sunny spot and light, sandy soil (or leaf- 
mould). with plenty of stones, both buried 


and lying on the surface, and is easily in¬ 
creased from cuttings or by division of the 
roots. 

CE. taraxicifolia (syn. CE. acaulis) is a 
trailing plant of biennial duration, with beau¬ 
tiful white flowers, changing to a soft pink. 
On a moist, warm summer’s evening they are 
very beautiful, being 5 inches across, and 
visible on tho darkest night. This is easily 
increased from seed, flowering well the first 
year, and is very enduring on warm soils. 


NOTES AND EE PLIES. 

Planting a glen. —With regard to my query 
about planting trees and shrubs in a rooky glen, I 
forgot to mention that it is nil limestone rock, so 1 
thought that Rhododendrons, etc., would not suit. 
What would you advise? The Grass burns up in dry 
summers.— N. M. 

[You seem to know that you must avoid 
Rhododendrons, but, happily, there are many 
other plants that would do, as you may see 
in gardens near you—for example, at Glaa- 
nevm, in Smith’s Nursery, at Newry, and 
many other places in Ireland.] 

Moss in lawn — Is sulphate of iron (commercial), 
in proportion of 1 lb. to 2 gallons hot water, the cor¬ 
rect tiling to kill Moss in lawn? Will it damage the 
Grass?—It. H. Jl. 

[The proportion i» right. Mix the solution 
in a wooden cask, and, if possible, with cold 
rain or soft water, and also just before using 
it, as it loses strength if kept. This remedy 
can lye applied at any season, and is known 
to be acting when the Moss turns black, after 
which it withers away. Moss indicates poor¬ 
ness of soil, and it is always advisable after 
the Moss has been destroyed to apply a rich 
top-dressing, such ns wood-ashes, loamy soil, 
and well-rotted manure well mixed together.] 

Plants from seed for rock work —Will you be 
so good as to give me the names of a few showy rock 
plants, easy to grow from seed, as 1 want- to sow 
some seeds in some perpendicular rock work recently 
built, and which, when in course of building, was 
prepared for plants by earth being laid between the 
stones before they were placed in position? When 
is the be*t time for sowing?—H. N. ]>. 

[The following, all of which can be raised 
from seed, are showy and useful plants: — 
Saponaria ocymoides, Erinus alpinus, Snap¬ 
dragons, Wallflowers, Corydalis lutea, Alpine 
Poppies, Centrantlius ruber, Aubrietias, 
Alyssum, Armeria, Diantlius, Campanulas. 
Arabis, etc. February and March are the 
best months for sowing the seeds, mixing 
these with moist soil and distributing the mix¬ 
ture in an irregular crevice of some length, 
so that an effective group may result. You 
can get the caustic alkali solution ready pre¬ 
pared from any of our horticultural sundries- 
men.] 

Iceland Poppies. - If there have been failures 
with Iceland Poppies—and they sometimes damp olf 
in the winter—it is well to remember that if seed is 
got in early in the New Year in heat, the plants 
arising therefrom will bloom—some of them, nt least 
—the same season. I had quite a nice lot of flowers 
from some young plants one autumn, and. of course, 
if given a slight protection, as a hand-light, they 
generally go through the winter unscathed.-T owns¬ 
man. 

Hollyhocks. -Very often Hollyhocks are allowed 
to go several years before anything is done to super¬ 
sede them with better plants—by better, 1 mean 
young plants, for assuredly the youngest plants give 
the most satisfaction. If anything will encourage 
the rust disease, it is to leave plants in the same 
position year after year. Hollyhocks impoverish tho 
soil in no' little degree, and in putting in fresh plants, 
it ia just as well, when possible, to give them a fresh 
site, well enriched with manure.—L kahirst. 

Perennial Lobelias. — Whilst there are 
thousands who grow the half-hardy annual Lobelias 
for bedding, there are few indeed that give a 
thought to the beautiful perennial forms that arc* 
so charming in a garden where hardy plants aro 
grown. At one time L. cnrdinalls was regarded as 
the premier sort, but from this many hybrids havo 
resulted. Still, the old cardinalis has many good 
points, and its brilliant-scarlet spikes give oil their 
beauty until well on in autumn—in fact, until frosts 
cut short the flowers. In many localities the peren¬ 
nial Lobelias may be safely left out-of-doors, espe¬ 
cially if they arc on borders under a wall.—L ea- 
HURST. 

Pentstemons. —Visiting the garden of a friend 
towards the middle of October, lie pointed to a bed 
of Pentstemons. with the remark: “What do you 
think of these seedlings?” I had to confess that they 
were beautiful, and I further learnt that they had 
been in bloom for some months. 1 think the Pent- 
stemon is one of those old-time plants that very often 
get overlooked. Hundreds grow Stocks and Asters 
who never give a thought to this old Plant. How 
majiy there are who are most particular about getting 
in their cuttings of Calceolarias, who never dream 
that cuttings of Pentstemons will root just ns easily 
and are quite as hardy. Those who have not tried 
them should sow a packet of seed in heat in spring, 
and treat them like Stock* and Astiys - |,i: aih^rst. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



Januauy 4, 1908 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


597 


VEGETABLES. 

HORSERADISH. 

At this time of the year the general market 
is supplied with immense quantities of this 
hardy and easily-grown root from Holland. 
It is strange it should be so. In how few 
gardens, after all, is Horseradish really well 
cultivated. Were it a root encouraged by 
prizes, as Celery, Leeks, etc., are, we should 
see very fine samples and first-class culture. 
If it pays Dutchmen to grow it for the 
British markets it should equally pay English 
or Irish growers to produce it. That the 
Dutch roots are mild as compared with our 
average roots is certain, but that difference 
is due to culture and quick growth more 
than to any other cause. In how many cases 
do we see the Horseradish patch in one 
corner of the garden, where roots are left un¬ 
touched from year to year, except when about 
Christmas-time a few are wanted to satisfy 
kitchen requirements. That is not worthy 
the designation of cultivation, nor is it. To 
do justice to the root the entire patch should 
be trenched out, all large roots trimmed, and 
laid in thickly. If covered with litter or 
Fern in hard weather, access can be had to 
them at any time as desired. All the smaller 
roots, or portions of roots, should be equally 
neatly trimmed, and where there are crowns 
have those retained. In the meantime, a 
fresh piece of ground should be deeply- 
trenched and well manured. Into this 
these roots with crowns should lie dibbled in 
first, 12 inches apart, the depth to which 
buried being regulated by the length of 
the root, the short, crownless portions fol¬ 
lowing at same distance, but let down 
several inches deeper, as they will form new 
growth from these portions. In that way, 
with needful waterings, quick, mild, and fine 
root growth is assured annually. 

_ D. 

CABBAGES. 

Ur to the present, September-planted Cab¬ 
bage-plants intended for early cutting in the 
spring are looking well. Last autumn, owing 
to a check the plants received after being 
put out through a spell of dry weather, 
there seemed to have been created the cause 
for that bolting prematurely to flower which 
resulted somewhat unusually last spring. 
This autumn there has been no such check, 
and plants now wear a flourishing aspect. 
The primary aim of growers this winter should 
be to protect the stems from frost as fully 
as possible, as after having had so abundant 
a rainfall we may have hard weather when 
into January. As it is the rule to put out 
first early Cabbages rather close together, 
as these are usually cleared off so fast as 
cut to make room for a succeeding crop, it is 
difficult to mould-up the steins so well as can 
be done when plants are put out into rows 
2 feet apart. The grower, however, must do 
his best with what resources he has. When 
last spring so many plants of first early varie- j 
ties raised from a late July sowing bolted, 
it came to growers as a great surprise, as, 
so far, no such trouble from these varieties 
had been previously evidenced. The effects 
of a check in the previous autumn seemed to 
be the only cause. 

Opinion as to the merits for the supply of 
very early small heads in the spring by 
Sutton’s April, Flower of Spring, El lam’s 
Early, Mein’s No. 1, and First and Best, seem 
to be unanimous amongst growers, and there 
can be no doubt that constant selection from 
pure non-bolting plants has helped to create 
stocks of exceeding value for the object de¬ 
sired. August sowings of London Market, 
Wheeler’s Imperial, Early Offenham, or 
other similar larger Cabbages, seldom give 
trouble, so far ns bolting is concerned ; in¬ 
deed, it is doubtful if ever we had purer or 
more reliable stocks of Cabbages than we 
have now, as every effort has been made by 
seed growers to eliminate from their stocks 
any coarse or bolting tendencies. As it is 
customary to plant these stronger-growing 
Cabbages sufficiently wide apart, earthing-up 
of the stems may yearly be donel Such 
breadths also, staucing ift^j t i{T are 

cut, carry large jmninties trr) T^Jbbage 


sprouts, like small heads, for several months 
onwards, and hence form a crop long endur¬ 
ing and of great value. It is sometimes said 
that if seed of early Cabbages be sown under 
glass in February, the plants later dibbled 
out into frames, then still later planted out 
into the open ground, heads will result from 
them as early as from plants put out in the 
autumn. So much is hard to believe, and, 
in any case, involves much labour, besides 
the use of glass. Where a specially severe 
winter has decimated Cabbage-plants in the 
open, then this course of treatment is de¬ 
sirable. Still better, however, is it to make 
a sowing in a cold-frame early in September, 
wintering the plants in the frame, thus hav¬ 
ing a supply or good hard ones to put out-of- 
doors in March. A. D. 


A NOTE ON CELERY. 

It seems a general complaint that Celery has 
run to flower this season in some counties. 
Why this should be so it is hard to say, un¬ 
less it was thought by the cultivator that 
with the frequent showers that fell no further 
watering was necessary; consequently the 
roots got so very dry that when heavy rain 
did come the plants responded by rushing 
into flower. 1 noticed this in a garden in 
Herefordshire, and in all the rows, some six 
or eight in number, the gardener there telling 
me the same thing had occurred in a garden 
some three miles distant. In my own case, 
not a plant has behaved in this way, but the 
foliage looks as if burnt, hardly a green spot 
being seen on some of the plants, and a 
similar thing has been noted in a market gar¬ 
den half a mile away. This showed itself 
early in October, when the plants should have 
been growing freely, and it gave the plants 
such a severe check that a well-blanched 
head is scarcely to be found. Standard 
Bearer is the least affected. This variety is 
evidently much hardier than some, hut all 
the rows were planted within four days of 
each other, and up to the time mentioned no 
plants could look better. The trenches were 
dressed with excellent manure, the soil 
stirred between the plants ten days after 
planting, and the supply of water (manorial 
and otherwise) was never stinted, the greatest 
care being taken that it did not touch the 
foliage, though if it had it was not strong 
enough to burn it. Moulding up was de¬ 
layed till quite late, as the plants appeared 
so healthy and growing so freely. The burn¬ 
ing of the foliage and the collapse of the 
plants pass my comprehension. No fly nor 
maggot could ever be seen. The plants were 
very sturdy, with abundance of roots, when 
set out in the trenches ; in fact, I never had 
better plants—and, what is more, they were 
never neglected from first to last. 

Devonian. 


VACANT GROUND. 

The continual rainfall of late has prevented 
much in the way of digging or trenching, or 
even getting the manure on in readiness ; but 
now the new year is with us it is high time to 
set about the work as soon as the state of 
the soil will allow of its being trodden on. 
A few weeks of seasonable frost would be 
acceptable now, so that such work may be 
proceeded with, unless it should he very 
severe frost, in which case the actual digging 
must be postponed, as it is unwise to bury 
hard, frozen ground, such soil remaining cold 
and wet for a very long time. Frosty w-eather 
affords an opportunity of wheeling on the 
necessary manure to the different plots, and, 
if not frozen particularly hard, the manure 
may be spread on the surface of the ground, 
which will keep out several degrees of frost, 
and the work of digging may go on. Before 
manuring it must lie decided what kind of 
crop is to be grown on the particular piece of 
ground. To dress ground with strawy litter 
such as the stable and cow-stall afford for 
roots such as Carrots, Beetroot, and Parsnips 
would only end in failure, forked roots of 
little or no value resulting. On the other 
hand, to get good crops of Peas, Beans, 
Onions, Cabbages, Cauliflowers, Turnips, 
Lettuces, and many such vegetables the 
ground must be in good heart, or the produce 


resulting from it will be poor. This manure, 
too, must be within reach of the roots—say, 
from 9 inches to 12 inches of the surface, 
which it will be if only spit-deep be the usual 
method of digging; but where double dig¬ 
ging or trenching feet or more is prac¬ 
tised, another layer of manure should be put 
at the bottom of the second spit, and, if 
plentiful, more may be put quite at the bot¬ 
tom of the trench, this to be turned upside- 
down. Such a liberal dressing as this vastly 
improves otherwise poor ground, and will 
sustain the crop above during periods of 
drought when once the roots get into the food 
below'. East Devon. 

A TIDY KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Towards the end of the year fallen and de¬ 
caying leaves catch the eye at nearly every 
point, unless some rule is observed, and a day 
or a few hours set apart each week for clean¬ 
ing up. This ought to be the case in all gar¬ 
dens, as to have a tidy flow'er garden and 
pleasure grounds and an untidy vegetable 
and fruit garden does not reflect" very much 
credit on the one in charge. Not only have 
we the leaves from deciduous trees usually 
bordering such a garden, but there is the 
decaying foliage of Cabbage, Cauliflower, 
Broccoli, etc., which, if left on paths and 
grodnd, soon gives off unpleasant smells, be¬ 
sides the untidyness it creates. All these 
need to be gathered up and conveyed to the 
rubbish-heap, manure-heap, or put in a 
trench whore deep digging is adopted. Ex¬ 
hausted Peas and Beans are often left stand¬ 
ing until the new year. Such ought not to 
be ; neither should decayed leaves from 
Broccoli, etc., be left where they fall. 
Several of the herbs may be cut close to the 
ground, old stalks of Jerusalem Artichokes 
cut away, if not already done, primings of 
fruit-trees and bushes taken to the smother- 
fire and burnt up, the ashes being most ser¬ 
viceable for all garden crops. In Gnild 
weather all weeds from garden walks should 
be got up and the roller passed over them, 
so that all may be clean and comfortable to 
walk upon. Another item often overlooked 
is not cleaning up daily after wheeling 
manure over the walks, and birds aro most 
assiduous in scratching aside the mulchings 
afforded Strawberry plants often bordering 
the main walks. If these few details are 
attended to, it will give a deal more pleasure 
to the owner when looking around his gar¬ 
den, and it certainly will to the gardener, and 
it should be impressed on the labourer to be 
clean and tidy in his work at all seasons of 
the year. J. M. 

NOTES AND REPLIES . 

Hybrid Cabbages. —The curious hybrid 
products of crossing Brussels Sprouts with 
white Cabbages and also with Savoy Cab¬ 
bages, exhibited recently by Messrs. Sutton 
and Hons, at the R.II.S. Hall, bore clear 
evidence of their respective parentages. In 
both cases the stems, some 10 inches in 
height, bore round sprouts, quite large, but 
of the form usually seen on coarse-grown 
Brussels Sprout steins, and the heads were 
in each case 6olid white Cabbage or semi- 
Savoy Cabbages. Two defects of the plants 
were apparent. One w'as that the stem 
sprouts were far too large to be classed as 
Brussels Sprouts, being really Cabbage, 
sprouts, although no doubt very* tender and 
nice eating-when cooked. The other defect 
was that the period of cropping must be 
brief, as so early as the middle of December, 
assuming that the plants exhibited showed 
the average character of the stocks, would 
find heads and sprouts fit for use, and 
from thence the stems would be useless. 
Brussels Sprouts stems generally give of their 
produce till the end of March. Cabbage 
hybrids seldom seem to be favoured as garden 
vegetables, being so uncertain.—D. 


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5 93 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


January 1, 1908 


GARDEN WORK. 


Conservatory. —As Lueulia gratissima and 
other things planted in the borders go out of 
flower prune them back to firm, ripe wood. 
If this is not done the plants soon become 
struggling and leggy. When planted against 
a wall the shoots can be tied in, and not 
much pruning is required, so long us there is 
wall space to fill. This is a charming wall 
shrub in a temperate house. I have seen 
Chorozemas planted out and trained on walls 
and trellises, but they make such charming 
winter flowering pot plants that one does not 
often see them planted out. They thrive very 
well in a well drained bed of peat and loam, 
and as they submit readily to pruning very 
handsome specimens may be had with just a 
little staking to make a graceful bush. 
Indian Daphnes often do better planted out 
in a bed of peat, loam, and sand than in pots. 
The difficulty beginners find is with the water¬ 
ing. If over-watered the Daphnes soon get 
sickly, and might, as well be thrown away. 
Another point which often lends to failure is 
the careless draining of the pots. This is a 
weak point of plant-growing in many places. 
'Fho youngest hand crocks the pots, as it is 
termed, and does it in such a manner that 
the water fails to pass away freely. Another 
matter that may be noted at this season is 
the tendency which Camellias, Orange-trees, 
and other hard-wooded plants have to sink 
deeper into the ground when planted in new 
houses. The only chance of saving hard- 
wooded plants which are buried too deeply 
is to lift them up and raise the border before 
replanting. Some soft-wooded plants will 
take no harm when the soil rises around the 
stems; but hard stemmed plants will die — 
not immediately, perhaps, but within a few 
years. Tree-Carnations and Mignonette are 
indispensable now, and onwards through the 
spring, as fragrance is essential to the tho¬ 
rough enjoyment of the conservatory, and the 
fragrance of Orange-trees, Carnations, 
Daphnes, Hyacinths, violets, and a host of 
other flowers and leaves all blended together 
is charming in a well-furnished conservatory. 

Stove. —The brightest things in the stove 
now are Euphorbia jacquiniaenora and Poin¬ 
sett ia pulcherrima, which is now. I believe, 
attached to the Euphorbia. This constant 
change of plant names becomes a nuisance 
to old gardeners. I shall be told, probably, 
that botanical knowledge, like other science, 
is advancing, but this only proves that 
botany is very far from being an exact 
science, and tends to unsettle one. One of 
the sweetest plants in the stove, after the 
Gardenia, is Hchubertia grancliflora. It is 
a nice plant for cutting, and does well 
planted out in a warm-house in a well-drained 
l>edof loam and peat. Among the soft-wooded 
plants, which are, or should be, in flow’er at 
this season, are Centropogon Lucyanus, 
Coleus thy rankle us, Gesnera zchrina, Justicia 
earnea, Pentas kermesina, P. alba, P. carnea, j 
Plumbago coccinea superha, and Thyrsacan- 
tlius rutilans. I have found some advan¬ 
tage where many flowers are required for 
cutting, in covering the wall surfaces of 
warm houses with such things ns Euphorbia 
jacquiniieflorn, Poinsettia pulcherrima, and 
Itlivncosj»ermum jasmiiioidcs. Jasminum gra- 
cillimum is nearly always in flower, planted j 
out in a bod of peat and loam, where there is 
some warmth in winter. Passiflora princeps 
and Ijioimea Ilorsfallire will l>e trained under 
the roof and will last for some time, as fresh 
flowers open every morning. The flowers are 
bright for table decoration, and will last one 
evening. 

An item in Vine forcing. Y oung Vines, 
when forced for the first time, sometimes 
break sluggishly, even when bent back to 
equalise the pressure. The best remedy for 
this is to take the end of the cane in the 
hand and twist it till the pressure reaches 
down to the collar of the plant. This liberates 
tlie sap. and it breaks freely afterwards. 
Old Vines usually break well, especially 
when they have been forced previously. , 
There is an advantage in disbudding as soon I 
as ‘ 1 -a *- 1 . — i t » 

lef 
Tl 


LIUJ U1C 

wing only one go« 
io Iviu'g flown him 



course. This is usually done in a tentative 
manner, to avoid the risk of splintering off a 
shoot, as a blank arising from this cause is 
very difficult to fill. I have seen some ad¬ 
vantage from covering small forcing houses. 
There is a saving of fuel, and the tempera¬ 
ture is more genial. I have used frigi-doyjo 
and Russian mats sewed together and fixed 
on a roller. The frigi-domo was light and 
manageable, but the wind took hold of it 
more in rough weather. The mats answered 
well. Covering of this kind is not much 
trouble, and there is economy in it. 

Watering Mushroom beds. 1 think some¬ 
times Mushroom-beds fail to do their best 
from want of moisture. They may, of course, 
on the other hand, fail from getting too much 
water. Mushrooms cannot grow without 
moisture, and it is an easy matter to examine 
the bed and see its condition. If the bottom 
of the bed is very dry, a soaking of warm 
liquid-manure will stimulate and cause it to 
produce another crop. Half an ounce of 
salt in a gallon of warm water forme a very 
useful stimulant to Mushroom-beds that have 
been in bearing for some time. If Seakale and 
Rhubarb are forced in the Mushroom-house, 
the manure for the Mushroom-beds should 
be prepared outside, so that the atmosphere 
in the house may be sweet and pure. 

The early Peach-house. The flowers, if 
not open now, will soon be showing colour. 
If the trees are very full of blossom-buds, 
some of them on the*underside of the trellis 
may be rubbed off and attention devoted to 
setting those on the upper side, either the 
eamel’s-hair-brush or rabbit’s-tail may be 
used. As a rule, Peaches will not set so well 
in a very dry atmosphere, and though many 
growers do not syringe when the trees are in 
blossom, there is no doubt the syringe, if 
used carefully, may help in scattering the 
pollen, but the syringe should not be used 
when the atmosphere is already laden with 
moisture. Some judgment is required, but 
there are times when the syringe may be 
used. Night temperature when the trees are 
in blossom, 55 degs. 

Plants In the house. -The dust will settle 
on Palms and other large-leaved plants. A 
dry, soft handkerchief or duster may some¬ 
times be used instead of the sponge. Flower¬ 
ing plants will be changed, but good Palms 
with care will last mouths without loss of 
condition. Begonias, especially Gloire de 
Lorraine, will Inst a long time in a light room. 
All plants from the forcing-house should stay 
in an intermediate house for a few days. 

Outdoor garden. —There are signs that a 
lower temperature is near to us, and it will 
be wise to have some dry Bracken or other 
covering material ready, as sometimes even 
hardy tilings suffer after a cool summer if the 
wood is not well rij>ened. Dwarf Tea Roses 
had best be protected by placing a mound of 
dry, light soil round the base. I have had 
Tea Roses killed down to the protecting 
material, but iu the spring they broke away 
very strongly from the base, so that no harm 
was done. Recently planted Roses and other 
things at all tender suffer more in severe 
winters than do established plants. This 
will, of course, lx* easily understood, as a 
good grasp of the soil retains the -life and 
vigour in the plants during a time of pres¬ 
sure. Repairs to lawns may be done in open 
weather. In many places where good turf 
is difficult to obtain good lawns can be made 
cheaper from seeds, blit the preparatory work 
should be done now. April will be time 
enough to sow the seeds, and by that time, 
if the land has been levelled, the seeds of 
annual weeds will have started into growth, 
and the necessary hoeing and raking will de¬ 
stroy them, and will save a good deal of weed¬ 
ing when the Grass-seeds have germinated. 
Those who desire coloured-leaved shrubs for 
grouping may plant some of tile newer Dog¬ 
woods— Coruus sibiriea and its varieties 
Spathi and variegata. beautiful gold and 
silver leaved shrubs of comparatively dwarf 
habit. 

Fruit garden. —Pruning, training, and 
washing or spraying are the principal work 
in hand. Some harm has been done in the 
past by a too free use of the knife, and there 
arc still jnen who jirunc 1»o hard, but the 


evil is not so glaring as it was. Wall trees 
must, of course, when they have filled their 
allotted space, be pruned to prevent en¬ 
croachment, but when that time arrives it 
will be better to thin out the trees and clear 
out an old tree or two if it is not doing its 
best. Any trees intended for rcgralting 
either in orchard or garden should be noted 
now, and u proper selection of grafts or 
scions made and laid in in cool, dump earth 
till the season for grafting comes round. 
Old Pear-trees on walls too full of spurs 
should be thinned. It often hapjxMis us trees 
get old they get so full of sjjur.s in the centre 
and the foliage so small that the buds made 
are lacking in fertility. These are the trees 
that should be thinned. I have seen net 
only wall trees but pyrumids so crowded with 
spurs that no fruit could be borne till some 
thinning had been done. Here the knife may 
be used freely, but a little more freedom may 
bo given to the leaders to extend. A hard- 
primed tree soon begins to fall. 

Vegetable garden. Gas lime is cheap in 
most places, and tnose who are much troubled 
with insects which infest the ground and 
attack the roots and stems of the jdants may 
use it in moderation. One pound per square 
yard will do no harm to anything, and if the 
land can be left till the spring before croj)- 
ping more may be used. We know, of course, 
if it is piled round the-stems of trees or bushes 
they will die, but the quantity I have named 
will do no injury to anything. Ordinary air- 
slaked lime should be used more freely than 
it is. When a garden gets full of humus from 
rej>eated dressings of manure lime is needed 
to correct matters. Continue to deejien all 
vacant land, either by trenching or double 
digging, leaving the surface rough for the 
weather to act upon it. Sites should be j>re- 
pared for special crops, such as Onions, 
Asparagus, Seakale, and root crops, which 
do not require to be sown on land which has 
been freshly manured. I am assuming the 
late Broccoli was, for the most part, laid 
down with heads to the north some time ago. 
This is one means of saving the crop in the 
event of severe frost coming. Another plan 
is to add more earth round the stems now, 
before frost comes. Seed Potatoes should be 
examined and all early kinds In id out thinly 
to harden the crown eyes. 

E. Hobday. 


THE COMING WEEK’S WORK. 

Extracts from a Garden Diary . 

January 6lh .—The inrush of seed cata¬ 
logues reminds us that the seed lists for the 
season’s supply must be made out. This will 
be done as eoon as possible. Our main 
supply of Peas will be of old, well-tried varie¬ 
ties, but, following our usual custom, a few 
jjackets of new things will be obtained. The 
plan for the cropping of the kitchen garden 
has been rearranged, and the site of the prin- 
cij>al crops will be marked with stout labels. 

January 7th .—Moved a lot of forcing sub¬ 
jects, including shrubs, Sjnraeas, etc., to 
warm house, sowed more Cucumbers, Melons, 
and Tomato-seed in warm house. A tempera¬ 
ture less than 60 degs. will not do ; more is 
desirable for Melons and Cucumbers. 
Vapourised Pelargonium house. These 
plants are now in the flowering-pots and near 
the glass. Night temperature of this house 
averages about 50 degs. Waterpot is in care¬ 
ful hands. 

January 8th .—'Trenching is being done in 
kitchen garden, special regard being had to 
the requirements of the next crop. Land for 
early Potatoes has been manured liberally, 
as also ground intended for Onions, Sea¬ 
kale, and Asparagus. A certain amount of 
Asparagus-seed is sown annually to provide 
the requisite number of plants fur forcing. 
For this purpose we prefer four year old 
roots. 

January Dll i. Commenced pruning 

Peaches and Apricots. The trees will be 
washed and trained when the pruning i« 
finished. A« much young wood as there is 
room for is laid in in Ajiricots and Plums, as 
the crop on the young wood very often 
escapes when the biossoins or spurs are cut 
off by frost. All Peaches are taken fc**m tin* 
walls 



January 4, 1908 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


599 


January 10th .— A rough plan lias been 
made of the flower garden, and an estimate 
made of its requirements, so as to provide 
enough plants with a margin over for eventu¬ 
alities. Those plants such as Heliotropes and 
other soft things have been placed in heat to 
make soft young cuttings. Lobelias are sown 
in autumn, and are now ready for pricking 
out into boxes. A few old plants are also 
saved to produce cuttings. 

January 11th .—Made up a , block of hot¬ 
beds with leaves and stable manure for Pota¬ 
toes. Rhubarb and Seakale are forced in 
Mushroom-liouse, and fresh roots are taken 
into the house as required to insure a regular 
supply. Lawns and walks are rolled after 
rain. Weedy walks are turned over, raked 
level, and rolled down again. Sowed Ver¬ 
benas and Begonias, as they require time. 


BIRDS. 

BIRDS AND WALNUTS. 

&"ME of your readers who are fond of birds 
may lie interested in the following : A couple 
of years ago I had in my garden a squirrel, 
which had become very tame, and I fed it 
o t Nuts. Not having Hazel-nuts, I used for 
a short time Walnuts, and I found the tit¬ 
mice came in for a large share of what 1 
intended for the squirrel, and in a few days 
became so tame they came close up to ino at 
the window, and in a very short time fed off 
my hand. All the other birds in the garden 
—robins, chaffinches, blue tits, great tits— 
seemed to go wild for the Walnuts, and now, 
whenever 1 go out, I am surrounded by all 
these birds. The robins and tits all come 
and eat off my hand (often standing quite 
calmly on my hand for several seconds), and 
oT the hands of my servants and friends stay¬ 
ing with me, and form a source of endless 
amusement. The chaffinches are shy birds, 
and only one or two come to hand; but they 
stand - round my feet and catch the pieces 
thrown to them, just as a dog would catch 
biscuit. 

These facts may be well known, but were 
unknown to me, and it seems very odd these 
birds taking so to Walnuts, as by no possi¬ 
bility can these be the natural food of birds. 
I write this, as it may be a help to those 
who, like me, love to make friends with our 
lovely little wild birds. “Tom tit.” 


POULTRY. 

REARING AND MARKETING OF GEESE. 
It may be said that under suitable condi¬ 
tions, and in comparatively email flocks, 
geese are as profitable as any other class of 
poultry. They are essentially suitable stock 
for farmers and commoners, for, being 
grazers, they require a larger range than 
other poultry-keepers have available ; but. it 
is chiefly owing to their grazing habit that 
so many farmers will have nothing to do 
with them. The objections usually advanced 
are that four legged stock will not graze 
after them, and that they are destructive to 
the herbage of the pasture. These objec¬ 
tions. however, do not appear to be well- 
founded. Horses, cattle, and sheep have all 
l>een found to graze freely after geese, but, 
owing to the semi-liquid excreta of the latter, 
it would be well to allow the pasture a few 
days in which to freshen after the poultry 
have been removed. With regard to the sup¬ 
posed destruction of herbage, geese will 
search for and greedily devour the tuberous 
root of tlie Ranunculus, thus consuming that 
which is undesirable for other stock. This 
habit should commend geese to dairy farmers, 
in whose pastures the acrid weed mentioned 
is frequently unduly abundant. 

The DEMAND for geese.— It is not gener¬ 
ally wise or desirable to run geese in any 
bub small flocks, except in very special cir¬ 
cumstances of accommodation or profitable 
outlet, the ordinary demand being limited 
and variable. In many, perhaps most, 
localities a moderate supply will nearly al¬ 
ways find a remunerative sale as goslings ; or 
the birds may, without/tUIdue risk, bd sent 
off the Grass to Londtm diifiik to^Tbldson. 
The distinctive goose mrrWuHu M^fcplnfas 


has practically ceased to exist; there is still 
a demand at that time of year, but not 
materially greater than that which now pre¬ 
vails during earlier months. Where stubbles 
are available, some of the birds may be pro¬ 
fitably run on them for the autumn markets, 
or fattened later for Christmas, when there 
is a more or less considerable demand for 
fat geese. At the latter season, however, the 
goose occupies a second place to the turkey ; 
moreover, the position of the English goose 
at Christmas is further assailed by the im¬ 
ported goose, many poulterers regularly 
stocking foreigu birds to the entire exclusion 
of English, on account of the more favour¬ 
able wholesale price. Unless, therefore, the 
English producer can market birds of excep¬ 
tional quality, he will find the average 
Christinas market unsatisfactory, and would, 
perhaps, do better to dispose of his goslings 
off the Grass in May and June. If sent to 
London salesmen, the consignments should 
l>e timed to reach the markets on Wednesdays 
or Fridays, these being the most suitable 
days for favourable sales. For the English 
farmer, or commoner, the best, breeds for 
purely table purposes are the Embdeu and 
the Toulouse, or a cross between the two. 

Breeding.- Geese will continue to pro¬ 
duce eggs profitably until an advanced age, 
and several geese which are now nineteen 
years old have averaged fifty-five eggs each 
per year during the last five years. For 
hatching purposes the eggs of mature birds 
are much more reliable than those of young 
stock ; the risk of infertility is reduced, and 
the vigour and hardiness of the goslings in¬ 
creased. Rearing, therefore, being easier, 
the profit is more assured. The breeding pen 
should consist of a gander and two or three 
geese; the geese will commence to lay in 
February or not later than early March, 
producing (if not permitted to sit) an average 
of from fifty to sixty eggs in a season. An 
ordinary hen will cover four or five goose 
eggs, ten !>eing a suitable number for a goose ; 
the period of incubation is thirty days. The 
stock birds may be housed in a roomy shed, 
well littered, and having a wire-netted open 
front; when the laying season approaches a 
rough nest should be made in a convenient 
place, and provided with an ordinary nest 
egg. If this is not done the eggs may be 
dropped near the water, to which it is 
necessary that the geese should have access, 
not only for swimming, but also to ensure 
fertility in the eggs. Stock birds should 
usually have a small allowance of soft food 
in the early morning, and a little corn when 
they return from the fields at night. 

Rearino and fattening.- When hatched, 
the goslings should be cooped out with the 
hens that have hutched them, in the same 
manner as chickens, and during the first 
week or two they should be fed frequently. 
For the first few days they may lx* fed on 
biscuit-meal (or soaked bread), mixed with a 
good proportion of well-chopped Dandelion 
leaves. This may be changed to Sussex 
ground Oats and boiled Rice at the third or 
fourth day. By the end of the first week 
they will have made considerable progress as 
grazers, and their rations will consequently 
not require increasing in the same propor¬ 
tion a.s those of other growing stock. By 
about the tenth day they will be able to do 
without any brooding, and the hens may be 
turned out. and brought into condition for 
laying again. On a suitable Grass range 
they will then make rapid progress with a 
comparatively small allowance of bought 
food. 

Early marketing. When goslings are 
reared for early marketing their Grass range 
should not be too extended, and they should 
not be allowed to enter swimming water ; in 
addition to the Grass, the food should con¬ 
sist of two moderate meals daily of a soft 
mixture, in the making of which Barley-meal, 
middlings, and a small proportion of brewer’s 
grains may be used. Goslings thus treated 
should be in good killing condition before 
they are three months old. 

Autumn marketing.— Goslings intended 
for the autumn market should be run free 
during the earlier months, or may, during 
part of the time, be folded on Turnips, being 
more closely confined for the last month be 


fore killing, and fed on meal and brewer’s 
grains. 

Marketing in winter.- When kept for 
winter fattening goslings should, from the 
time they are feathered, be allowed the same 
lil>erty and be treated in the same manner as 
old birds, being confined to a, roomy, open- 
fronted shed for a month or five weeks be¬ 
fore killing, and allowed two full meals daily. 
The meals should consist of soft food in the 
morning and corn in the afternoon—the grain 
being fed in the water-troughs with a good 
supply of grit. It is also necessary to keep 
the fattening birds well supplied with green 
food during the jn-riod of their confinement. 

Killing and preparing. -The birds 
should l>e sufficiently fasted before killing. 
Dislocation of the neck is, perhaps, the best 
method of killing, as it has the great advan¬ 
tage of being cleanly, but in the case of large 
birds, or where there is a doubt as to the 
strength of the wrist, it should not l>e 
attempted. The alternative method is (1) to 
pinion or lock the wings over the back to 
prevent unnecessary struggling; (2) to tin 
the legs and hang the bird up by them ; (3) 
to stun tlie bird by a sharp blow on the back 
of the head ; and (4) immediately to sever 
the jugular vein by means of a sharp pen¬ 
knife thrust through the neck behind the 
lower jaw. The usual preparation for shop 
or market consists of rough plucking and 
pressing until cold.— Leaflet No. JOS of the, 
Board of Agriculture and Fisheries. 

LAW AND CUSTOM. 

Landlord's right to enter and repair 
premises (Devon). —This new landlord has no 
right whatever to interrupt your quiet enjoy¬ 
ment in this way. If he persists in doing so, 
you will have a right of action against him for 
trespass. This new owner of the property 
takes it subject to the same liabilities and 
rights as the former owner was subject or 
entitled to. The change makes no difference 
whatever to your tenancy rights. In the 
absence of any agreement to the contrary, you 
appear to me to be entitled to twelve months’ 
notice ending with a full year of tenancy. 
As regards compensation for the fruit-trees, 
etc., you say von have planted, I am afraid 
you will not he able to get any allowance for 
these. Read my reply to “One in Doubt,’’ in 
this same issue.— Barrister. 

Purchase or lease of garden (J. J. J. 
Somerset). —I am afraid the only way to pur¬ 
chase or secure a lease of the particular 3-acre 
piece you refer to is to try and negotiate with 
the owners, who appear to be the ecclesias¬ 
tical authorities. 1 doubt very much whether 
they would entertain a sale ; but you might 
try. Tlie farmer can do nothing. Go to the 
parson, and tell him what you want. So far 
as the new Small Holdings and Allotments 
Act i»s concerned, the only way in which that 
would help you would be this : you can write 
to tlie clerk of the County Council, telling 
him what you want, and asking whether his 
council will assist you. The answer you will 
probably get will be that, whilst they are will¬ 
ing to consider what can be done to find you 
a 3-acre piece, they will not undertake to help 
you to get this particular garden. You had 
better adopt both of my suggestions—see the 
parson and write to the clerk.— Barrister. 

Compensation for trees planted in 
garden (One in Doubt). —You do not give pie 
the particular item of information which 
would have enabled me to answer your ques¬ 
tion satisfactorily. You say that you “ planted 
the trees with the consent of tlie deceased 
owner,” blit you do not say what were the 
exact terms of that consent, and whether lie 
undertook to compensate you or whether you 
rented the garden specifically as one to Imi 
used for the purpose of a market gardener. I 
assume uot. That being so, you have no 
claim whatever. There is a very ancient 
rule of law which says, “Quiequid plantatur 
solo, solo cedit,” which means, “Whatever 
takes root in the soil becomes part of the 
freehold”; and this ride applies to your 
ease, so that you are not entitled to take up 
anything whatever, nor can you claim com¬ 
pensation. All I can advise yon to do is to 
sit quiofi and hops for 11 h) JlAUftjKTKR. 






Digitized by 


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Original from 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


No. 1,505.— Vol. XXIX. 


Founded by W. Robinson, Author of “The English Floicer Garden." 


JANUARY 11, 1908. 


INDEX. 


Advantage of room, 

the . 

Amaryllises, growing .. 
Apple Blenheim Orange, 

tno . 

Apple Warner's King .. 
Arum sanctum .. 
Asparagus-bed, a weedy 

Birds . 

Borders, are mixed, 
satisfactory ? .. 
Cabbage for spring 
Carrots, grubs in 

Celery-fly. 

Chrysanthemum Bertie 
Kmdon. spidery 
Chrysanthemum Dia¬ 
mond, early-floweri ug 

Pompon. 

Chrysanthemum Jardin 
des Plantes 



Chrysanthemum Mnio. 


Climbers on walls 

607 

Irises, Flag 

G09 

Penias caruea .. 

610 

608 

Gustav Honri .. 

605 

Conservatory 

612 

Law and custom 

614 

Pieotee r. Carnation .. 

609 

610 

Chrysanthemum W'int.or 


December Exhibition of 



614 

Plants and flowers 

004 


Cheer and kindred 


the N.C.S., the 

605 

Mozereon (Daphne Mo- 


Plants, grouping 

609 

004 

varieties, late .. 

606 

Ferns . 

604 

/ereum grandiflorum), 


Plants, hardy, dividing 


003 

Chrysanthemums 

605 

terns in the house 

612 

the autumn - flow- 


and re-labelling 

009 

614 

l ’hry santhemums for the 


Ferns, new 

twi 

cred . 

60S 

Plumbagos 

610 

602 

open air. 

606 

Ferns. propagating 

604 

Unions, the cultivation 


Potatoes, first-early or 
second-early .. 


613 

Chrysanthemums, exhi- 


Forcing-house .. 

612 

ol . 

601 

614 


bition. 

606 

Fruit . 

603 

Outdoor garden .. 

612 

Poultry. 

613 

609 

Chrysanthemums, mini- 


Fruit garden 

612 

Outdoor plants .. 

608 

Pruning, ruinous 

«03 1 

602 

at, tiro-flowered Pom- 


Garden diary, extracts 


Pancratium illyncum in 


Pyrus Mains flori- 

bunda . 


614 

iron . 

605 

from a. 

612 

pots . 

614 

60S 

601 

Chrysanthemums: notes 


Garden, manuring u 

602 

Paradise-stock, the 

604 

Rhododendrons under 



on new varieties 

606 

Garden work 

612 

Peaeh-houBC, late 

612 

Pines . 

607 

606 

Chrysanthemums : pre- 


Greenhouse in winter, 


Peas. 

601 

Rose Mme. Mina Bra- 



paring for next season 
Cinerarias and their 

606 

the amateur s .. 

610 

Pear Nouveau Poiteau.. 

603 

banson . 

611 

606 


Ground, improving 


Pears, flavour in.. 

604 

Roses . 

till 

treatment nuw 

H10 

allotment 

614 

Peara, home-grown 

603 

Roses, dwarf Hybrid 


606 

Clematis m on tana 

609 

Harbingers, early. 

609 

Pelargoniums, Zonal, 


Pnrpetuals tor forcing 

611 

Clematises, planting .. 

608 

Indoor plants .. 

610 

in winter 

610 

Roses in pots 

(ill 


Royal Horticultural 

Society. 

Shrubs, floweriug, for 
South-west Ireland .. 
Shrubs, seaside 
Shrubs, uumutilated .. 
Stenanfhitiui robustum 
Thom (CraUegus eoc- 
cineu). the scarlet - 

fruited. 

Tree-stuuijra, destroy- 


Trees and shrubs 
Trees and shrubs for the 

Dowiir. 

Vegetable garden 
Vegetables 
Vinery, latu 
Violet La Franco 
Week'H work, the com¬ 
ing . 


606 

607 

(108 

614 


614 

607 

CCS 

612 

601 

612 

609 


VEGETABLES. 

PEAS. 

We are now into the new year, and. gar¬ 
deners are thinking of making their first 
sowings of Peas. Possibly, having taken 
advantage of open weather, one sowing at 
least of some early dwarf variety, such as 
Harbinger, Chelsea Gem, William Hurst, or 
others of what is not quite a large section. 
lm« been made on a warm south border, and 
soil is being prepared for successions, such 
as May Queen, Gradus, or Early Giant, in 
broad drills in more open ground. In some 
cases, sowings may have been made in frames 
on strips of turf, or in shallow, narrow, 
wooden troughs, or in pots, thinly, the 
plants to be put out into the open ground in 
sheltered positions, and then pushed on to 
pod early. Such are the exigencies of gar¬ 
den work to-day that the gardener must use 
every effort to facilitate cropping, that re¬ 
quirements, once undreamt of, may now be 
satisfied. What the gardener may thus do 
with, probably, ample glass room, is hardly 
practicable for the amateur gardeuer ; hut 
at least lie, as well as the professional man, 
may make a first early sowing on a warm 
border, assuming that his garden has that 
favoured aspect. Failing it, then the sunniest 
spot in the garden should be so utilised. 
Pea* are fairly hardy plants, but, all the 
same, need protection from severe frosts and 
cold winds, with all the sunshine they can 
obtain to enable the stems and leaves to be¬ 
come stout, sturdy, and able to resist cold. 

Even for first early dwarf Peas it is wise 
to prepare the soil by deep working. It is 
not fair to deep-rooting plants that have to 
carry growth and pods during hot, dry 
weather, and especially in u warm position, 
to sow on shallow-dug soil. Many amateurs 
w ho dig their ground to a depth of 12 inches 
think that they are working it deep. Really, 
that is but shallow working, for the good 
gardener works or trenches his soil at depths 
of from 24 inches to 36 inches, giving in the 
process good manure dressings, well buried 
down, thus enabling roots at a good depth to 
find food and moisture, in which they get the 
sustenance so needful to enable them to carry 
the pod crops expected of them. Besides this 
deep working, drills should lie broad at the 
bottom—that is, be quite flat, fully 6 inches 
broad, and from 3 inches to 4 inches deep. 
Into these the Peas should not be strewn, but. 
la* dropped in ; if of very dwarf varieties, 
1 inch apart, aaid if of tall ones 2 inches to 
3 inches apart all over the furrow. Ho 
treated every seedling plant has iu growth 
ample opportunity to develop both root and 
top. and later, when supported by stakes, to 
braJich and increase in productiveness in a 
'vay that is not at all possible when sowings 
of seed are made thickly under the old 
narrow furrow method of cropping. When 
the plants come through Uw^oil, 
branches of Fir or Lauro]ffixodS| 


windward side of each row, help to protect 
them from tier cm* winds. Failing side 
branches, a ridge of soil may be draw n up on 
the sides for the same object. If birds com¬ 
mence eating the tender leafage, nets must 
be laid over the rows at once, or, failing 
these, some half-dozen lengths of black cotton 
be stretched along the row's just over the 
plants, to keep off the depredators. If slugs 
give trouble, dustings at night with fresh 
soot or lime will soon destroy those pests. If 
it l)e important to have deep-worked soil for 
early Peas, it is much more so for later ones, 
as these have to bear the heat of June, July, 
and August, and even into September. It is 
in these later months that Peas find a further 
trouble to surmount in the white mould or 
mildew which so often affects them. Drought 
at the roots and a very hot atmosphere often 
conduce to this trouble, and besides deep- 
rooting, ample waterings and liberal syring- 
ings in the evening with clear water help to 
keep the plants clean. Sometimes spells of 
cold, wet weather conduce to mildew. Then 
it is difficult to do much to correct it. except 
by spraying the plants, so soon as white 
blotches are seen, with a weak solution of 
Bordeaux mixture, better known as the 
copper sulphate and lime solution. Those 
who prefer what are dcscrilwd a.s medium- 
height Peas, which range from 3 feet to 
4 feet in height, find in Senator. Empress of 
India, Superlative, Centenary, Gladstone, 
and Autocrat very fine cropping and podding 
varieties. Those who may prefer taller Peas: 
should sow Duke of Albany, Telephone, 
Alderman, The Duchess, Quite Content, and 
that delicious, though smaller-podded Pea, 
Ne Plus Ultra. Beyond thejse few named 
there is an almost illimitable range of selec¬ 
tion, for there is hardly a hail Pea now in 
commerce. Hard, round Peas have almost 
disappeared from commerce, except for first 
early pickings in the market fields, and the 
selection, from first early wrinkled Peas to 
the very latest, such as Autocrat, Late 
Queen, and Michaelmas, is so great that 
many dozens of diverse selections could be 
made, and all fairly good. After all, Peas 
owe more of their value to the culture be- 
stow r ed than to name or variety, hence the 
importance of deep culture and liberal 
manuring as primary ends to success. 

A. D. 


Celery-fly.— In many districts the Celery- 
flv has almost ruined the crop. In some gar¬ 
dens in Essex £ noted the crop was worth¬ 
less, while in others I found quite tin* reverse. 
At Hackwood Park and at Forde Abbey, in 
Dorset, the Celery plants had scarcely a 
spotted leaf. In seasons when I found the 
fly showing itself, I used to dust the plants 
with lime, soot, etc. When this was done 
early, much good followed. I am convinced 
this pest may be arrested in the early stages. 
I have found much benefit when the first 
symptoms were seen, from syringing the 
plants all over with Abo! insecticide, apply¬ 


ing it with force, and on two or three occa¬ 
sions. Soap-suds I have used to advantage in 
the early stages. Many other things may be 
used with benefit, all depending on early ap¬ 
plications.— Dorset. 


THE CULTIVATION OF ONIONS. 
The following interesting and practical paper 
on the cultivation of Onions was lately read 
by Mr. Bowerman. of Hackwood Park 
Gardens, before the Basingstoke and District 
Gardeners’ Mutual Improvement Association. 

Growing the Main Crop. —Dealing with 
the main crop Mr. Bowerman said that for 
profitable growing there must be a suitable 
soil in an open situation. The ground must 
be thoroughly trenched, and plenty of manure 
added—in fact, it is almost impossible to give 
too much. The trenching should be done in 
October or November. Nothing more was re¬ 
quired before the end of February or early in 
March, -when in favourable weather a good 
coating of lime and soot should be spread over 
and raked in. This being done, and the soil 
being in suitable condition, the seed should 
be sown in drills 1 foot apart and 1.1 inches 
deep. A great many had their <1 rills only 
8 inches or 9 inches apart, hut this did not 
give room for the hoe to bo worked freely, 
and it was better to have the drills further 
apart and leave the Onions thicker in the 
drills. Immediately the seed is sown til** 
drills should he levelled in neatly. If the soil 
is light and sandy it should be well trodden 
before sowing the seed and raked level, re¬ 
moving all stones. The young seedlings, as 
soon as up, should be kept free from weeds 
by a frequent use of the hoe. The thinning 
should be carefully carried old. drawing away 
all the weaklings without disturbing those 
that are to remain, which should be 5 inches 
to 6 inches apart if fine produce is aimed at. 
On the other hand, if quantity is the object in 
view, or moderate-sized produce is in demand, 
it is not desirable to have them more than 
3 inches apart. When the weather is dry 
watering in some cases is very beneficial, and 
soot should be thrown over the tops once a 
fortnight, also a dusting of sulphur. This 
will prevent moths settling and laving their 
eggs, and also prevent mildew'. \Vhen the 
foliage begins to flag and the stems to bend it 
is a sign that they have finished their growth, 
and advantage should lie taken of the first 
fine day to pull the bulbs up. Onions when 
pulled should be laid on the ground with their 
roots towards the south, so as to be exposed 
to the full sun that the bulbs may be 
thoroughly ripened. When the surface of the 
ground is dry nnd on a nice windy dny they 
should be turned over. This can easily 1*> 
done with a wooden rake, ami the operation 
should be repeated for several days in succes¬ 
sion, as Onions, to keep through the winter, 
must be thoroughly harvested. When the 
roots and tops are completely withered the 
roots shpultl Ije taken off and the bulbs stored 
in tv (1rj\ cold place. They keep, well in n left 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGIM 



























603 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


January 11, 1908 


over an open shed, but in severe weather they 
will require a little protection, such ns a 
covering of straw, or mate. They also keep 
well tied in bunches suspended from the roof 
of a shed, but care must be taken that they 
do not touch the walls of the place in which 
they are stored. Good main crop varieties 
are : Improved White Spanish, Improved 
Reading, Brown Globe, Bedfordshire Cham¬ 
pion, and Giant Zittau. Anyone wishing to 
grow for pickling cannot do better than grow 
the Silver-skinned. This should not be sown 
before May, or the bulbs get much too large 
for the purpose. They should bo grown on 
the poorest soil in the garden, and no thin¬ 
ning whatever is required. 

Autumn-sown Onions. — Coming to 
autumn sowing, if the plants are not intended 
to be transplanted, the ground should be 
throughly trenched and manured the same in 
every way as recommended for the spring or 
main crop. The seed should be sown about 
the middle of August in drills 15 inches apart 
and fully 2 inches deep, as they are liable to 
be thrown out of the ground by frost. If sown 
in a seed-bed with the intention of transplant¬ 
ing in February or March, the seed should 
not 1x2 sown before September. The plants 
should be carefully removed from the seed-bed 
in order to preserve as many of the roots as 
possible. They should be planted in rows 
15 inches apart from row to row and 4 inches 
from plant to plant in the row. As soon ns 
large enough for use every other one can be 
taken out, and these will be found very use¬ 
ful, as they come in at a time when Onions 
are 6carce. Another way, if the supply is 
getting short, is to plant a few medium sized 
bulbs of the preceding year's growth early in 
February, pressing the bulb into the ground 
so that it is scarcely covered. This Onion will 
throw up a flower-stalk, which should be re¬ 
moved at once. The check to the growth in 
this direction will make young bulbs form 
round or out of the old one. Onions may thus 
he obtained 3 inches or 4 inches in circumfer¬ 
ence and fit for kitchen use when spring and 
autumn-sown Onions are no larger than a 
pencil. Of course, they will not keep long fit 
for use, but this is of no great consequence, 
as the principal object in view is to keep a 
full supply until the autumn-sown are ready 
for use. For autumn sowing a great many de¬ 
pend on the Tripoli class, but these are much 
too soft and will not keep. I prefer to grow 
Trebons, Danvers’s Yellow, and Giant Zittau. 
You do not get them quite so large, but their 
keeping qualities are much better. The 
Potato Onion I have never seen grown in 
Hampshire, but in my home in North Devon 
in my schooldays you could scarcely find a 
cottage garden without its patch of this 
Onions. The cultivation of this Onion is very 
simple. The smallest bulbs should be 
planted, almost on the surface, in rows 
15 inches apart and 10 inches from each other 
in the row. This is a very profitable Onion to 
grow, and certainly should be more grown 
than it is bv cottagers and allotment holders. 
There is still another Onion, called the 
Egyptian, which produces bulbs on the stems 
instead of a flower-stalk. These small bulbs 
are often used for pickling. For seed pur¬ 
poses it is always best to select the largest 
and best formed Onions when the crop is 
taken up, planting again in February in a 
situation well exposed to the 6un, but 
sheltered from the wind as much as possible. 
They should be planted in rows 2 feet apart 
and 18 inches in the row. The flower-stalks 
will require support. Stakes should be driven 
in at each end of the row and a cord tied to 
each stake ; this will be quite sufficient to sup¬ 
port the heads if they are tied to the cord. 
In September the seed should be ready for 
gathering, and the heads should be cut and 
carefully laid in a shallow box to dry. 

Onion diseases. —The On ion-flv is the 
worst pest we have to contend with, and as 
a preventive there is nothing better than soot, 
plentifully used. Watering or spraying with 
soap-suds has been found useful. Sand 
saturated with petroleum thrown broadcast 
over the soil and then watered has been suc¬ 
cessful, but thejmst preventive is good cul- 
ure and pleiity:>£ deeding 1 Mildew can 
asilv be stopp ^l T fajyMilpjijgj \[ potassium. 

Onions for exhibitk(nj— There is no 


secret connected with the growing of Onions 
for exhibition ; at least, if there is one, it is I 
hard work, and that is a sqeret very few want 
to know. To commence, select a good open 
space facing south or south-west, if possible. 
This must he trenched three spits deep. I 
will try and explain exactly how we do it at 
Hackwood. After having decided where I 
intend to grow the following year, I take out 
a trench two spits wide and two spits deep, 
wheeling this to the other end, where the 
trenching will be finished. The third spit we 
dig up and leave in the bottom of the trench, 
then putting on a good layer of rotten 
manure. The first spit of the next trench 
should be put on this, and on top of this 
another layer of manure, which should be 
covered with the second spit, the third spit 
to be dug up and left in the bottom as in 
the first trench. It will thus be seen that 
each trench is dug three spite deep, with 
two layers of manure in each. This should 
be done in November, if possible, leaving the 
surface quite rough ; in fact, the larger you 
can leave the lumps of soil the better for the 
frost to act on it. Nothing more need be done 
until the end of February or early in March. 

I then give a good coating of lime and soot, 
also wood ashes, raking this in roughly, as a 
fine surface is not required. Early in April 
I repeat this, adding fowl-manure and guano. 
This is worked in with the forks, to make 
sure that it is thoroughly mixed with the soil. 
About the middle of the month I commence 
to plant, unless there is a very cold east 
wind. I take advantage of a dull, showery 
day, which gardeners generally call “grow¬ 
ing showers.” The Onions for this purpose 
are sown in January in boxes about 3 inches 
deep. When large enough for handling they 
Rre pricked into other boxes 3 inches apart. 
These boxes, which should be 2 feet. long. 

1 foot wide, and 5 inches deep, may he got 
ready days before they are wanted by plac¬ 
ing a good laver of rotten manure over the 
bottom and filling up with good rich soil. I 
always use old Chrysanthemum soil that has 
had a large quantity of manure-water passed 
through it. After being pricked out into 
these boxes they are put as near the glass as 
possible, keeping the house or frame quite 
close for a few days. After this I give plenty 
of air night and day, as the principal point is 
to keep the seedlings strong and sturdy. In 
planting, great care should be taken not to 
injure more of the roots than con possibly 
be avoided. They should be planted care¬ 
fully with a trowel in rows 18 inches apart 
and 16 inches from plant to plant in the 
row. In planting, use all the strong plants 
first, leaving the weak ones in the boxes to 
fill up any blanks that may occur. When the 
planting is finished, the whole bed should 
have a gentle watering with a fine rose pot, 
and, should the weather be hot and dry, a 
slight sprinkling for a few days will be very 
beneficial. Nothing more need be done os 
regards watering before the end of June, 
when the young plants should be growing 
fast. Then is the time to help them with a 
good sprinkling once a fortnight of nitrate 
of soda, guano, and soot, alternately. A 
sharp watch must be kept for mildew through 
July. This can be stopped at once with sul¬ 
phide of potassium, using half an ounce to 
each gallon of water ; but as prevention is 
better than cure, a slight dusting of sulphur 
once a fortnight will answer the purpose. 
After the middle of August no manure or 
water must be given, or it will soon be seen 
that some of the largest bulbs are split at 
the base. Individual bulbs arc often seen at 
flower shows up to 2 lb. or 2i lb. each. This 
is the average weight. If you want Onions 
up to 3 lb. each they require more attention. 
The heaviest Onion I have ever grown 
weighed 31b. oz. ; but this was well beaten 
last year with two Onions weighing 8 lb., 
shown in London, and grown nt Henley-on- 
Thames. As to varieties for exhibition, Ailsa 
Craig stands before all others. Cranston’s 
Excelsior is very good, but there is no need 
for anyone to grow both. These are deep, 
globular bulbs, which are always preferred 
by judges ; in fact, a flat Onion has no chance 
whatever by the side of the globe varieties. 
Those wishing to grow a flat Onion should 
use Anglo-Spanjsh and Sutton’s Al. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

A weedy- Asparagus bed.— Will you advise me 
through the columns of Gardening what to do with 
a bed of Asparagus that is over run with the weed 
farmers call twitch? Should I have to remove the 
roots to get rid of it, or would salt applied kill it — 
if so, how much should I apply per rod?—N eenton. 

[It is quite useless to attempt to clean the 
ground in which your Asparagus is now 
growing. If you can find any crowns, you 
can lift them, and, by laying them in close in 
a dark cellar, you may frequently, after 
gently watering, get -some weak, blanched 
shoots, which, though small, will be nice to 
eat. After all the shoots arc cut, seeing 
the clumps arc full of the twitch, you should 
burn them and set about preparing a new 
Asparagus bed. Purchase next April some 
two-year-old roots, which place in a furrow 
4 inches deep and 6 inches wide, with 
18 inches in the line between each plant in 
well-drained soil, which has been deeply 
trenched and well manured. If you givo 
these plants attention during the summer in 
the way of a slight dressing of salt, and in 
the winter a top dressing of manure, if the 
soil is light, with frequent doses of liquid- 
manure during the growing season, you will 
be able to cut good heads the third year after 
planting and many years after.] 

Manuring a garden —(1) My garden is In fair 
condition. 1 propose to use pigs' dung. 0!) I am 
going to dig up a small field and grow thereon Cab¬ 
bage and Beans, for which I intend to use all stable- 
manure obtainable. t3) I propose to use fowls’ 

manure ns a dressing around the roots of my Goose¬ 
berry and Currant-trees, and, probably, Khubarh. in 
addition. Do you think I am proceeding on the best 
lines?-S ir Willlam. 

[Use pigs’-manure in your garden, by all 
means; but have mixed with it plenty of 
strawy litter, as, unlike horse-inanure, pigs’- 
manure contains no fibre, and for that rea¬ 
son has in it little potash. Having both pig 
and poultry manure, make one heap of both, 
cast over it a heavy coat of soot, and to each 
cart-load add 20 lb. of basic slag, also, if the 
manure be wet, some garden soil. Turn the 
whole well, to mix it, at least twice before 
putting it on to the ground ; then you get a 
really fine dressing. If you can obtain stable- 
manure, mix it with the other. With respect 
to Beans and Cabbages, not only manure the 
ground well—especially if it be poor, but 
work it as deeply as you can—say. from 
15 inches to 18 inches, as the crops benefit 
so much in dry weather. Before you add 
any dressing to the soil beneath Gooseberry 
and Currant-bushes, lightly fork it up, to 
enable the manure elements to be washed in. 
Pig manure is not good to place about the 
roots of Rhubarb, as it is apt to make the 
stems taste badly unless you fork it. in or 
cover it with soil. We prefer stable-manure, 
which is sweeter for such purpose. Prob¬ 
ably, as the garden has been so long neglected, 
the bushes in it are thick, and need thinning 
and pruning. Bee that is done before manur¬ 
ing or digging, burning all the trimmings. 
Have foul ground well cleaned of coarse 
weeds before manuring and digging. When 
difficulties arise, do not hesitate to ask 
questions.] 

Cabbage for spring.— Both autumn and 
spring planting has advantages. Under 
some conditions it may be wise to plant in 
spring, but, if Cabbages are needed as early 
as possible in the spring, then the object of 
the cultivator should be to get good, strong 
plants before the winter sets in. Everyone 
knows that small late plants never overtake 
the large, strong ones. When at Hackwood 
Park, near Basingstoke, at the close of No¬ 
vember, I examined the Cabbage-bed, consist¬ 
ing of about 3,500 plants (principally Flower 
of Spring). At that time the plants were 
large enough to lead one to think they would 
soon begin folding in. Mr. Bowerman as¬ 
sured me they were only about their usual 
size, and he feared nothing from bolting in 
spring. If Cabbages are to be a paying crop, 
they must be earlv. Recently I saw, in 
North Hants, from 1 acre to 2 acres that 
were planted early in September, and at the 
close of November the plants were about 
as large ns thosfe at Hackwood. My friend 
I told me they were about this size last year, 
and that he did not get 10 per cent, go to 
set"!.—G. S, 



January 11, 1908 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


G03 


FRUIT. 

PEAR NOUVEAU POITEAU. 

This Pear was raised by Van Mons, of Lou¬ 
vain, from seed, in 1827, and first fruited in 
1843, some months after the death of the 
raiser. It was named by the son of Van 
Mons, Nouveau Poiteau, after Poiteau the 
pomologist. Poiteau’s name is attached to 
three Pears absolutely distinct, and in the 
present instance the name Nouveau Poiteau 
was given it to distinguish it from another 
Poiteau raised by Van Mons in 1823. The 
fruit figured was grown on a heavy clay soil, 
which evidently suits it, a-s we learn that the 
tree never fails to crop. A friend of ours, to 
whom, many years ago, wo gave some grafts, 
and who used to grow it well in the heavy 
soil at Bedfont, Middlesex, writes to us as 
follows : 

• This excellent Pear happens neither to be 
well-known nor to have attained to the posi¬ 
tion among Pears it so well merits. I ha\e 
found it a singularly good, clean grower on 
stiff clay, when worked on the Pear-stock, a 
condition under which few of the more popu¬ 
lar Pears would give really good fruit. As 
a variety for such soil it is to be highly com¬ 
mended"; but, grown on a wall, as high-clase 
Pears usually are, the fruits should be of the 
finest quality. These are large, pyriform. 


being very useful in the kitchen. It need 
scarcely be said how welcome Apples become 
when the palate ha9 become surfeited, as it 
were, with other summer fruits. “J. G.” 
givee its average weight per fruit as close on 
half a pound, which is correct; but one might 
easily assess the weight higher if size is taken 
as a gauge for weight; but, like so many other 
large varieties of Apples, they do not often 
tell so favourably in weight tests when com¬ 
pared with medium sized samples of more 
solid fruits. I have found the tree long-lived, 
free from canker, and, as I have already said, 
free and regular in hearing. For the past 
fifteen years I have never failed to gather a 
crop of "Warner's more or less heavy. 

Wilts. W. S. 

RUINOUS PRUNING. 

“X. Y\,” page 559, complains of the ruinous 
pruning he finds in his friends’ gardens, and 
appeals to readers of Gardening Illus¬ 
trated for help to save English gardens from 
such practices. In the hands of the inex¬ 
perienced the pruning-knife will always be a 
source of much heartburning when the work 
comes under the review of the practical hands, 
and I fear “X. Y.” is not the only one who 
grows weary of waiting for the desired reform. 

It must be remembered, however, that the 
principles of fruit-tree pruning are somewhat 
difficult, and it cannot, be expected that the 


fication for pruning trees would be well ad¬ 
vised to either consult a practical man or 
entrust the work to a “paid hand” who does 
understand fruit-tree training. I have seen 
many trees in such a state of confusion from 
neglect in pruning that the novice would find 
himself in a maze in the attempt to place 
his tree on a right basis, and many a gardener 
flounders over the same work, especially if at 
all timid. “X. Y.” argues well for thinning 
only the mass of spray which is produced in 
summer. The main shoots often may be left 
unpruned about their extremities, but there 
is no golden rule for tliis recognised and de¬ 
sirable practice, for in the case of a young 
specimen sometimes there is unevenness of 
branch growth requiring modified treatment. 
A slight shortening of a strong leader may be 
the means of strengthening one which is weak. 
This has reference, of course, to trees that 
have not yet attained to their limit of space. 
Standard trees need only have their heads 
thinned ; the leaders are better unshortened, 
both for the better formation of the tree and 
| its early bearing. W. S. 


HOME-GROWN PEARS. 

That it is impossible to grow such fruits as 
Apples and Pears in England equal to any¬ 
thing we get from the Continent I deny. In 
the south of England, at all events, when- 



Pear Nouveau Poiteau. From samples prown on a heavy clay soil. 


with greenish-yellow skin. The stalk is 
H inches long. In the Fruit Manual, the 
flesh is well described as fine-grained, but¬ 
tery. melting, very juicy, rich, sugary, and 
highly perfumed. Higher praise could hardly 
he bestowed on any Pear.” 

APPLE WARNER’S KING. 

The high quality of this Apple has given rise 
to many synonyms being applied, adding con¬ 
fusion and disappointment to many pur¬ 
chasers. D. T. Fish, Nelson’s Glory, and 
King Apple arc names borne by this Apple. 
“J. G., Gosport,” does well to bring before 
your readers, on page 416, the merits of such 
a valuable Apple, and I am sure there arc- 
many who will readily acknowledge the truth 
of “ J. G.’s” statements. It is true the tree 
is of strong growth, having bold, deep green j 
foliage, and unless the treatment of the tree 
by pruning is made subject to the lines laid 
down by “J. G.,” a natural shyness may be 
invited in its early stages. 

When the tree becomes matured, it belongs 
to that ever bearing type which every grower 
desires to possess. For cooking, but little 
fault could be found; indeed, 1 have never 
heard an unfavourable comment when the 
fruits are presented in a sound state. Not 
only is it a good winter Apple, but its size 
admits of its use in summer, and, in the case 
of matured trees, at, any rate, there is, I find, 
a need for thinning I he crop, these thinnings 

Digitized by O' 


amateur is going to take up a line exactly 
similar to that of the man who may have had 
years of practice. There are many hundreds 
of men engaged in fruit-tree pruning each 
winter, who for years are working, as it, were, 
in the dark. There is no doubt at all about 
the mischief which is caused every winter by 
those who work on rule of thumb practices 
in regard to pruning, for, as “X. Y.”says, the 
Willow-bed system of lopping back branches 
is productive of shoots stronger with each re¬ 
curring season, unless, of course, root prun¬ 
ing is taken in hand at the same time. I 
have recollections of tree pruning en¬ 
trusted to intelligent garden labourers in 
large gardens where the labour staff is not 
equipped fully with experienced hands that 
calls for as much complaint as that instanced 
by your correspondent on page 559. The fact 
cannot be disguised that pruning cannot be 
learnt in one season. The pruning of fruit- 
trees has to be adapted to the nature of the 
tree, its variety and purpose. What we have 
to complain of so often i9 that the pruner 
takes so little thought over small details, one 
in particular being the dead spurs which are 
so often left untouched. From a workman’s 
aspect these dead “snags” and spurs, which 
will accumulate from year to year under any 
circumstances, are very offensive to the 
trained eye of the expert when they are passed 
over in the course of pruning. Owners of 
small gardens not having the necessary qunli 


ever there is a Chrysanthemum show, there 
are usually a few prizes offered for dishes of 
fruit in season, and, although the monetary 
value of the prizes hardly pays for the 
trouble of carrying the fruit to the show, 
there is always a keen competition, and the 
quality of the fruit exhibited would gladden 
the hearts of fruiterers, who. as a rule, are 
compelled to go to Covent Garden and get 
foreign fruit, because they cannot get tin- 
home-grown article. If such splendid 
examples of good culture can be produced bv 
gardeners with very limited means at their 
disposal, how is it that no attempt is made 
by owners of large tracts of land thoroughly 
suited for the purpose? I am well aware 
that a great increase has taken place in fruit 
culture, but, our home-grown Apple supply 
is exhausted in less than half the year, and 
when we come to Pears, the supply is even 
less, for at the time when I saw splendid 
dishes of Doyenne du Cornice and Duchess 
d’Angouleme, and others of the exhibition 
type at our local fruit show, there was no 
chance of buying anything like them in the 
fruiterers’ shops unless they were imported 
ones. That Pears need more favourable con¬ 
ditions than Apples to bring them to perfec¬ 
tion all gardeners are aware, but my own im¬ 
pression is that no fruit we can cultivate 
offers a better prospect of a good return for 
the outlay than some of the best kinds of 
Pears. I t is sorts that are 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




604 


January 11, 1908 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


needed, for they are to be had now at a few 
shillings a bushel; but what is needed are 
fruits that would be sold by the dozen or 
at so much each, and if our local amateurs 
can grow and show Pears over 1 lb. each, I 
see no reason why, if special means of cul¬ 
ture were adopted, we could not produce 
something equal to the imported fruit. 

Gosport. James Groom. 


THE BLENHEIM ORANGE APPLE. 
Probably, no Apple is so popular all round, 
from the consumer’s point of view, as the 
Blenheim Orange. It is a large and hand¬ 
some fruit of good quality and texture, and 
may be used either for cooking or for dessert 
about Christmas and New Year, a period cf 
tile year when Apples are in great request. 
According to the Royal Horticultural So¬ 
ciety’s classification, it- is to be known as a 
dessert Apple, although full grown speci¬ 
mens are much beyond the size generally con 
sidered best for the dessert; but its very 
handsome proportions and appearance com 
inand admiration, and its flavour is very 
pleasant. Ah a cooking Apple, except for 
I taking whole, it seems to me to lack acidity, 
though this very fact commends it to many 
connoisseurs. From the grower’s point of 
view, it is not always satisfactory, for the 
tree, except when in bush form on the Para¬ 
dise-stock. takes many years to come into 
l>earing, and even when it ban commenced to 
bear it is by no means certain. As a close- 
pruned garden tree it is one of the worst of 
bearers; and in this form it is useless to 
plant it. because its nature of growth and 
fruit-bud formation make it imperative that 
to produce crops of fruit it shall be allowed 
freedom of growth. The most satisfactory 
trees arc those planted in cultivated orchards, 
where they are allowed to spread without 
limit in bush form, and pruned simply to 
keep the branches thin. The tree, when on 
the free-stock, requires a great amount of 
head room. I have seen trees of the Blen¬ 
heim Orange in a light, sandy soil in Moray¬ 
shire with a diameter of over 30 feet, and 
still spreading. In some orchards the Blen¬ 
heim cankers badly, but this is generally 
when the soil has been over-manured at 
planting time, or in cases where the soil is 
cold, wet, and undrained. I apply no manure 
of any kind to the soil when planting, but 
rely entirely on top-feeding with wood-ashes, 
gas-lime, and stable-manure in a ileeayed 
state. Those who are not prepared to allow 
the trees of Blenheim plenty of head room 
had better leave it out of their calculations 
when planting. T. 

FLAVOUR IN PEARS. 

Those who have grown Pears on various 
soils have found how some kinds vary from 
others in flavour. T have found that very 
heavy .soils and low situations are detrimental 
to flavour, while a light sandy soil gives the 
l»est fruit, in this respect. In the autumn, at 
Frimley Park, Surrey, I found that fine win¬ 
ter kind, Ne Plus Meuris, in the liest condi¬ 
tion from bush trees, the fruit a good size, 
ancl having that russety coating which de¬ 
notes- this. These fruits had remained on the 
trees till very late. On a similar soil in West 
Norfolk I found it just the same, and in two 
or three other gardens where the soil was 
light. I have, at Frimley Park, from trees 
against west walls, eaten Easter Beurre and 
Knight’s Monarch of the best flavour. Many 
years ago. at Farnborough Hill, where tlio 
soil is light, there was a fine collection of 
Peal's, the flavour of which was of the best. 
During the eighteen years I was at Forde 
Abbey, where the soil was heavy, I found the 
flavour far below that of Pears grown on 
light, soil. In many gardens much may lie- 
done to aid quality by choosing the situation. 
My experience is that to obtain the highest 
flavour a warm, dry air is essential. In the 
light- soil of Bournemouth I was told Knight’s 
Monarch, Ne Plus Meuris. and several 
others generally looked on as uncertain, were 
good. My experience proves that- a sandy 
loam suits the largest- number of sorts. Some 
may have doubts as to its sustaining powers, 
but. much depends on the means of feeding. 
Where good maniuH^an be had,|nothing is 

Digitized by O- 'glC 


better as a mulching durfng spring. Liquid- 
manure is equally good, applying it at any 
season—preferably during summer. Artificial 
manure is good also. Abundance of water 
on light soils is most- essential. 

J. Crook. 

NOTES AND TEE LIES. 

The Paradise stock. -Would you kindly toll mo 
what is the origin of the French Paradise-stock for 
Apples, and why it is so called?—J. F. CRANSWICK. 

[Why the term Paradise was applied no 
one seems to know. This stock produces 
numerous fine, fibrous roots, that keep near 
the surface, and, as a consequence, the trees 
worked on it make less coarse growth than 
they do on the Crab-stock, and fruit earlier. 
The hulk of these stocks used in our nur 
fleriee come from France. They are increased 
by suckers, layers, and cuttings. You could, 
possibly, purchase some from some of our 
fruit-tree nurserymen.] 

PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

FERNS* 

PROPAGATING FERNS. 

In some instances division is the only means 
of increasing the stock, and, though seedlings 
usually make the best-furnished plants, it 
may sometimes be desirable even with those 
that may be had from spores. 'Faking Adian- 
tum cune&tum as an instance, seedlings make 
the best-furnished plants, but where large 
fronds are required for cutting, plants ob¬ 
tained by division will be most- useful—that 
is. if those that are divided are vigorous 
and healthy. Old pot-bound plants should 
be avoided, the best being those that have 
just got their roots well round the pots. The 
best time to deal with them is in the early 
spring, as soon as they have made a good 
start into new growth. It may be necessary 
to use the knife to cut through the crown, 
but I like to use the hands, and, with a 1 it tie 
perseverance, many Ferns may be divided 
without using the knife at all. thus saving the 
best roots. Some of the older roots may be 
cut away, but it is the fresh young roots 
that start from the base of the crowns that 
require care. A. Farleyense, of course, al¬ 
ways has to be propagated by division. 
Fresh young plants divided into two or three 
and carefully treated, will soon re-establish 
themselves. Where old plants have to be 
dealt with, they may have all the fronds cut 
away, and the numerous crowns separated. 
The smaller they are broken up the better. 
They should then be bedded into sand, peat, 
and chopped Sphagnum in equal parts in 
shallow pans, and kept close and fairly moist. 
Young fronds will soon begin to start, and 
new roots make their appearanee. They 
should remain in the pans until they are 
fairly well. advanced, when they may lie 
potted singly into small pots and treated as 
seedlings. Other Adiantums may be treated 
similarly. Most of the Nephrolepises may be 
readily obtained from the rhizomes, as they 
spring up wherever rhizomes come into con¬ 
tact with .suitable material to root into, and 
soon make useful-sized plants. In many in¬ 
stances plenty of stock may be bad from the 
surface of their own pots, or for such as have 
more spreading rhizomes, a plant should be 
plunged in a bed of suitable material for the 
roots to start into. Cocoa-nut-fibre refuse 
may be used, or, if this is not at hand, some 
leaf-mould and sand. The Nephrolepises 
are not particular as to soil, though, of 
course, they start more quickly in some light 
material. The deciduous species require a 
little care. They may be left in their pots 
until they start into growth, or be shaken 
out and the small tubers treated as recom¬ 
mended for the small divisions of Adiantums. 
N. Bausei is one of the prettiest of the de¬ 
ciduous kinds, but requires Rome care while 
dormant, and, when started singly, two or 
three may be potted together afterwards. 
Being of slender growth, it would be quite 
late in the season before a iirp ful sized plant 
could be established from a single crown, 
except from the very strongest. 

Pteris scaberula rarely produces spores, 
but, having spreading rhizomes, it is not 
difficult to make divisions, yet it requires 
great care to establish them. 1 have seen 


many fine plants lost through dividing them 
up. The best method to ensure success is 
to grow a plant on in a shallow pan, taking 
a fresh, healthy young specimen, and using 
some good yellow loam, with plenty of fibre 
and some sand. After the rhizomes have 
spread and made some roots in the new soil, 
they may be taken off and potted. I prefer 
to do this before they have rooted too deeply, 
and, after taking them off, they must be kept 
close and well shaded, but will do better in 
a cool place than in heat. Avoid overwater¬ 
ing until well established. Microlepia liirta 
enstata is another beautiful Fern which I 
have never known to be raised from spores, 
yet one of the easiest to increase. A great 
mistake is often made in leaving too many 
crowns together; if divided up quite small 
and grown on freely, it will make large, 
drooping fronds, blit if a number of crowns 
are started together, they make buneliy, 
stunted plants. If the plants are large when 
dealt with, it may not be advisable to break 
them up at once. Divide so as to ensure 
saving some good roots, and then, after they 
have got a good start, divide again. 

in dealing with all Ferns, it is necessary 
to lx 1 careful how they are broken up. Where 
the roots are much disturbed, water must lie 
used sparingly until they have taken root 
in the new soil and are well established. 
Ferns, like Heaths, must never be allowed 
to get thoroughly dry, as. if so, they will 
perish. Keep them regularly watered, more 
especially when the pots are full of roots. 


NEW FERNS. 

To one whose memory of such matters goes 
back to'a period of thirty-five to forty years, 
the list of Ferns that have been given either 
first-class certificates or awards of merit, bv 
the Royal Horticultural Society must appear 
a very meagre one, for during the year 1907 
only five have been thus honoured. They 
are as follows : 

Nephrolepis exaltata Whitmanii. —Wo 
have now several plumose forms of Nephro¬ 
lepis exaltata. the first of which was Pier- 
sonii, which originated in the United States 
and was distributed in 1903. The best 
known of this group is Messrs. Roehford’s 
N. exaltata todeaoides, from which Whit¬ 
manii differs in being much less dense, so that 
it forms altogether a lighter specimen. It 
was given an award of merit on February 
13th. 

Cyrtomium falcatum Rochfordii. —The 
typical Cyrtomium fale&tum (which, by the 
way, is. according to the latest arrangement, 
now included in the genus Aspidium) is a 
well-known ami popular decorative Fern, 
which is almost, if not quite, hardy. Its 
pinnate leaves arc of a stout, leathery nature, 
on which account, it is often used for the em¬ 
bellishment of rooms, draughty corridors, and 
similar places. From the ordinary form the 
variety Rochfordii differs in each leaflet 
being elegantly cut and fringed. As a deco¬ 
rative Fern there is undoubtedly a great 
future before it, but 1 am not aware that it 
is yet distributed. First-class certificate, 
March 5t-h. 

Davallia braziltensts. —A pretty and dis¬ 
tinct species of Davallia. which promises to 
be a desirable Fern for decoration. It was 
shown by Messrs. H. B. May and Sons, of 
Edmonton, from specimens sent from Brazil, 
The fronds, with which the plant is well fur¬ 
nished. arc of a deep, shining green, and in 
vigorous examples a yard or more in length. 
Award oT merit. Juno llih. 

POLYSTIOHUM ACULEATIM PULCHBRRIMUM 
Drderyii. —When hardy Ferns were in the 
height of their popularity, this delightful 
variety of our native Prickly Shield Fern 
would have aroused a vast, amount of enthu¬ 
siasm. The gracefully disposed fronds are 
very finely divided, and some show a slight 
tendency to tasselling. First-class certifi¬ 
cate, October 1st. 

Nephrolepis exaltata superbissima is 
another Nephrolepis of the todeaoides sec¬ 
tion, but the fronds are far more dense than 
in that form. In superbissima some of the 
pinnae grow quite upright, thus forming a re¬ 
markable frond, which suggests a cushion 
in shape. It was shown on November 12th 
bv Messrs. Pierson] of New York, and a first- 
,class certificate was awarded it u X. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



January 11, 190S 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


605 


CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

CHRYSANTHEMUM MME. GUSTAV 
HENRI. 

A Japanese variety that remains popular 
over an extended number of years must pos¬ 
sess great merit, so short-lived are many of 
the kinds. This one has been in cultivation 
quite a decade, and still plays a part in com¬ 
petition. It is a variety among the first to 
bring fame as a raiser to M. Calvat, of 
Grenoble. The flower is large, and handsome 
in shape. When in first-rate form, it is 
quite a semi-circle of long, narrow, white 
florets. Blooms of it have been 6een quite 
10 inches across. In growth it is among the 
best, being dwarf and with excellent foliage. 
As a pot-plant for the supply of white blos¬ 
soms for Christinas, few of the newer sorts 
can compare with it, the bushy habit of 
growth, its good flower-stem, and true 
Japanese character making it so useful for 
this purpose, H. 


been kept for a long time, and not seldom 
have been staged in anything but a fresh con¬ 
dition. It must be admitted that there was 
something in this assertion in years gone by, 
but things have changed since then. Anyone 
who took the trouble to carefully look 
through the exhibits of the large Japanese 
and incurved Chrysanthemums at the last 
December show could not faiL to be im¬ 
pressed with the improved character of the 
different exhibits. In most instances they 
were distinctly ahead of anything of the 
kind set up previously at these late shows, 
and among the different varieties staged were 
many that wo do not usually see at the 
earlier shows. In recent years several good 
late-flowering varieties of the big bloom sec¬ 
tions have been raised, and if these showi 
are to be continued, a list of sorts from 
which the selection for December allows is 
to be culled should be published by the so¬ 
ciety, and in this way the representation of 
really late-flowering varieties be ensured. 
Is it really necessary that the large disbudded 



Chrysanthemum Mine. Gustav Henri. 


THE DECEMBER EXHIBITION OP THE 
N.C.S. 

From the report of the last executive com¬ 
mittee meeting of the N.C.S., there appears 
to be a desire on the part of some, of the ' 
members to discontinue holding a December j 
exhibition in future. I was glad to sec 
the matter was not disposed of so hurriedly | 
as some of those present evidently desired, I 
and that the question will come up for eon-I 
sideration at a subsequent meeting is a 
matter for congratulation. Doubtless there 
arc many enthusiastic Chrysanthemum I 
growers who would be sorry to see the De¬ 
cember Show at the Crystal Palace discon- ; 
tinued, as at that late exhibition there are i 
always features of interest that are never' 
met with at either of the earlier shows. | 
Exception has been taken to the exhibition of 
some of the big blooms at this show. It has I 
been argued that many of the big exhibition 
blooms seen at the December shows arc | 
simply a repetition of what have been ex¬ 
hibited at the Novemli&e^shovvs, and^that a 
not inconsiderable 


immw^shovvs, and .t hat 
nf v 


blooms of high culture should he represented 
at the December show? I think not.. 

The National Chrysanthemum Society has 
an excellent opportunity at the present time 
of breaking away from the traditions of the 
past, and of holding an exhibition of a more 
practical and useful nature than has existed 
since the late shows first came into being. 
Chrysanthemums of a decorative character 
are what the British flower-loving public 
wants, and at the present time no society 
seems to supply that one great need. In late 1 
November and throughout December then? 
arc now numerous varieties of an ideal deco¬ 
rative kind, that only need to be asked for 
in the schedule of prizes of the N.C.S. or 
any other Chrysanthemum society, to be as¬ 
sured of a ready response from professional 
and amateur growers. The market show, 
which, by the way, so very few people see,i 
has proved the great possibilities of a De-i 
cember show. Blooms of medium size, and 
these of bright and pleasing colours, as well 
as a large number of chaste white flowers, 
can be had in abundance in early or mid- 


December. Therefore, a show of this type of 
the flower, excluding absolutely from the 
show the large, severely disbudded blooms 
hitherto set up in several classes, would bo 
useful and instructive. If the foregoing be 
supplemented by the quaint and pleasing 
spidery and thread-petalled Chrysanthemums 
and the numerous single-flowered sorts, of 
which there are now so many delightful speci¬ 
mens, to say nothing of miniature-flowered 
Pompons, I see no reason why the December 
show should not be a really beautiful dis¬ 
play, and quite distinct from either of the 
earlier exhibitions. Of course, a show of 
this description -costs money, but, seeing 
that the National Chrysanthemum Society, 
according to its last published account’s, 
spends only £39, and receives from the Crystal 
Palace Company £25 for this show, the cost 
to the society is only about £14. This, 
surely, is a small matter when the advantages 
of such a show as 1 have above suggested 
are considered. This special society has 
done excellent work in the past. It must, 
however, emancipate itself from its old and 
worn-out methods of endeavouring to promote 
almost exclusively the cultivation of large 
flowers. There are other nobler aims than 
these, and I hope to see the society face the 
question in a sensible and practical fashion. 

H. A. W. 

MINIATURE FLOWERED POMPONS. 
The miniature-flowered Pompons are .rele¬ 
gated to the background by many growers of 
the large-flowered Chrysanthemums, possibly 
because of their small size. This type of the 
Chrysanthemum is very useful in the con¬ 
servatory, and for cutting the free-flowering, 
branching sprays are ideal. I have grown 
them for years, and find the dainty sprays of 
miniature blossoms most welcome. I propa¬ 
gate the different sorts in the month of Janu¬ 
ary. By that period the cuttings should be 
in a healthy condition, and of a kind that 
root very readily. Their cost is ridiculously 
low, the high prices so often charged for the 
huge Japanese novelties never applying to 
these more useful and ornamental plants. 
The varieties begin to flower in the early 
autumn, and by a careful selection a con¬ 
tinuous display of blossoms may be provided 
until well into December. 

Early-fj.owering Kinds. 

Little Bob.— This bears small, compact 
flowers in slender sprays ; colour, crimson- 
brown, paling with age. It is of rather 
slender habit. In blossom from August till 
October. Height, 18 inches. 

Anahtasio.— This is a very old sort. The 
habit is branching and compact, developing 
freely neat blossoms of a soft purple-violet 
colour. The plant comes into flower iu 
August, and this year the display has lasted, 
well into November. Height, about 18 inches. 

Bronze Pet.— In this instance we have 
a reddish-bronze sport from Anastasio. In 
every respect but colour it is identical with 
the parent variety. 

L’Ami CONDEROHET. — This is suitable 
alike for pot culture or for the outdoor gar¬ 
den. The flowers nre creamv-wliite, witli a 
primrose centre. It blooms during Septom- 
l>er and October. Height, 18 inches. 

Yellow L’Ami Condkrohet is a beautiful 
golden-yellow sport from L’Ami Conderehet. 
and in every respect blit colour is similar to 
the parent variety. 

Mignon. In this the blossoms are tery 
small, and almost globular: colour, golden- 
yellow. Height, about 1 foot; in flower dur¬ 
ing 8epteml>er and October. 

Luoksby.— This is a tiny flower, the plants 
being about a foot high ; colour, bronzy- 
yellow. 

White Lady. -A variety seldom met vrit-h, 
but it should be in all collections. The flowers 
are about an inch or rather more in diame¬ 
ter ; colour, blush. Height, 18 inches ; in 
flower Septemlier and October. 

The foregoing are all well adapted for bor¬ 
der culture, and will maintain a supply of 
blossoms until the mid-season varieties come 
into flower under glass. 

Mid-season ANblLATE Kinds. 

Katie Mannings.— This plant should bo 
partially disbudded to bo-seen at its best; 

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606 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


January 11, 1908 


colour, rosy-bronze. Height, about 3| feet; 
in flower in November. 

Bob (syn. Maroon Model).—An old variety ; 
the blossoms email; colour, crimson-brown. 
November-flowering. 

Little Dot. —This is a very free-flowering 
variety, but to be seen at its beet the freely- 
flowered clusters must lie disbudded ; colour, 
crimson-brown. Height, 2£ feet ; in flower 
during November. 

Model of Perfection.—T his, fifteen 
years ago, was very popular; habit, dwarf 
and bushy ; colour, rosy lilac. In flower dur¬ 
ing Noveuiter. 

Snowdrop. This has pure white blossoms 
that are of |>erfect form, and are freely pro¬ 
duced. Height, 3 feet; in bloom during late 
November and into December. 

Primrose League.— This pretty pale yel¬ 
low sport from Snowdrop is exactly similar in 
everything but colour to the parent variety. 

Miss Gertie Waterer.— Where true 
stock of this variety can be obtained, the 
resulting flowers are of a soft pink colour. 
This is another sport from Snowdrop. 

Lilac Gem. —The blossoms of this are 
borne on slender stems, and are almost 
globular when finished ; colour, pale rosy- 
lilac. Dwarf; November and December. 

Little Pet. —This bears lovely sprays of a 
golden-bronze tone of colour. Height, 3£ feet; 
in flower in November and December. Does 
well outdoors. 

Lune Fi.eurie. —Little is known of this 
curious small flower. It is semi-globular, has 
fimbriated florets, and the colour is a deep 
bronzy-orange, paling with ago. Habit, stiff 
and somewhat spare. Late November and 
December. Height, 2£ feet. 

Miss Talfourd. — ft is years since this 
variety was introduced, and at that time its 
beautiful form was much admired. The plant, 
however, is not very free flowering. The 
colour is white. Height, about 3£ feet; 
November and December. 

Victorine. —This plant has small rosette- 
like flowers, borne in free-flowering sprays ; 
colour, maroon-crimson. November-blossom¬ 
ing variety. 

Pygmalion.— This is quite distinct from 
another larger-flowered Pompon bearing the 
same name, so that when ordering plant* or 
cuttings this distinction should be made. The 
variety under notice is one of the very best 
of the series. The colour may be described 
as a pleasing shade of rose. In flower dur¬ 
ing November and December. 

K. G. 


NOTES ON NEW VARIETIES. 


G. Mileham, 1908, is a very large, bohl-look- 
ing Japanese of the incurving type. The 
florets are wide and massive ; colour, a light 
shade of yellow. As an exhibition flower it is 
one of the best of the year. 

Mrs. J. C. Neill. —This is a light yellow 
of quite a different build ; it has long, droop¬ 
ing florets, like the variety F. S. Tallis. The 
flower is large, well formed, and handsome, 
the plant being of dwarf growth. It is a 
really fine sort for amateur cultivators. 

Maurice J. Cole, a rosv-yeLlow sport from 
the pink variety, W. A. Etherington, should 
commend itself to all those who grow large 
Chrysanthemum flowers. Like the parent, it 
is of easy culture, and dwarf in growth. 

Mary DONnellan.-— This is noted for its 
grand colour, a very rich deep yellow. The 
flower is not over large, of incurving forma¬ 
tion, and sure to become popular. 

Rockett’s Surprise. —This is full of pro¬ 
mise as an exhibitor’s flower. It is not un¬ 
like the variety W. It. Church in its shade of 
crimson with gold points. The florets are of 
extra width and thickness. It is an Austra¬ 
lian sort that has not been exhibited in its 
best form. 

W. M. Moir.—T his is a large incurving 
Japanese; colour, pure white. The habit is 
exceptionally dwarf, and on this account it is 
a valuable addition. 

Mrs. W. Wells is a new kind that may 
not be large enough for exhibition, but tbe 
colour is so distinct in the shade of orange- 
bronze, and so bright that it will be esteemed 
as a decorative variety. 

Freda Bedford. is tin otter excel- 
lei 1 1 sort, for the prt^iict i^T^of |^mts in 


quantity. The shade of colour is a pretty 
buff tint. 

Richness.— 1 This struck me as a particu¬ 
larly rich maroon-crimson flower. The 
blooms are of medium 6ize, just the stamp 
to supply a quantity of cut material. 

Foxhunter. —The blooms of this variety 
are a near approach to scarlet; at least, the 
light red is most distinct and telling, and the 
golden reverse adds to its effect. This is a 
fine decorative kind. 

Crown Jewel Improved.—T his is a 
single-flowered variety of much merit. It- is 
in colour a russety-red on yellow. A true 
single, the form is first-rate, and the flower 
has a nice finish. H. S. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 
Exhibition Chrysanthemums.— The enor¬ 
mous flowers that carry so much weight at the 
exhibitions are not the most decorative. Jf 
only growers would refuse to follow the lead 
of the exhibition crank, and look upon the 
Chrysanthemum as a good-natured bush, 
which, under ordinary treatment, will grow 
in a few months from a cutting into a large 
size, and produce scores of shapely flowers 
of pleasing colours, there would be more joy 
in the possession of a collection of the best 
varieties than many people experience now. 
The exhibition flower is on the same level as 
the fat woman, fat bullock, fat pig, fat any¬ 
thing, in which every character is subordinate 
to size. The really picturesque Chrysanthe¬ 
mum is a well-furnished bush, a yard or so 
high, with a dozen leafy stems, each carrying 
about half-a-dozen flowers of normal size.— 
The Field. 

Preparing for next season.— Directly the 
last blooms are cut from the plants, no mat¬ 
ter for what purpose they have been grown, 
the time has arrived for preparing for next 
season’s display. A stock of suitable cut¬ 
tings is the first consideration the cultivator 
should have in view. So much depends upon 
the kind of cutting obtained for the ultimate 
display that some little pains should be 
taken to obtain the best results. Directly 
the blooms have faded or been cut, the 
plants should be cut down to within a few' 
inches of the soil if there is an abundant 
supply of sucker-like growths springing from 
the base. If the variety be new or scarce, 
and shy in throwing up cuttings, do not cut 
lower than within 1 foot from the base, as 
growths may push from the stem. The latter 
are not so good for cuttings as those growing 
a few inches away from the stem, on ac¬ 
count of their inclination to show premature 
flower buds instead of making free growth, 
but as any kind of cutting has to be borne 
with at times, it is well to endeavour to 
obtain as many as possible. The old stools 
should be placed in a light and airy place. 
A cold frame efficiently protected from frost 
answers very well, and so do a cool green¬ 
house, vinery, or Peach-house at rest. If 
there are more cuttings growing from the 
base than are required, and these are likely 
to be drawn up weakly and spoilt, the most 
slender and less likely to make good plants 
should be taken out, to give additional space 
to those remaining. Anv sign of mildew’, 
green, or black-fly should Ibe at once checked 
in its progress. Flowers of sulphur for the 
mildew', and tobacco powder for the aphides, 
are the most effective remedies. In the 
meanwhile, preparation should be begun for 
putting in the cuttings, as a long season of 
growth is desirable to give the test results. 
Soil should be got ready and dried gradually. 
Loam, leaf mould, and sharp silver-sand In 
equal parts form a suitable compost. Clean 
pots 2J inches in diameter are the most 
suitable, putting one cutting into each. 
From these the plants are easily shifted to 
larger pots when well rooted without giving 
them a check. 

Chrysanthemum Jardin des Plantes.— 

One often hears of the vast improvement that 
has been effected in the Chrysanthemum of 
late years; but, with all this, some of the 
old varieties still hold their own. As an illus¬ 
tration may be mentioned the fact that the 
old variety at the head of this note has been 
one of the test brought into Covent Garden 
Market during the latter part of the season, 
and. what is more, it realised good prices. 
According to the Centenary Catalogue of the 


National Chrysanthemum Society, Jardin 
des Plantes was sent out by John Salter, of 
the Versailles Nursery, Hammersmith, in 
1859—that is, nearly half a century ago. In 
the beautiful rich golden-yellow colour of 
its blossoms it is certainly surpassed by none 
of the newer forms. Earlier in the season, 
too, that charming little incurved flower, 
Mrs. Dixon, or Golden George Glenny, dis-* 
tributed over thirty years ago, realised in the 
market even better prices than some of the 
large Japanese blooms. This variety is cer¬ 
tainly entitled to he justly regarded as a 
true incurved flow'er, not like some of the 
hug© blooms which to-day do duty for such. 
Even among the Japanese varieties, where 
plants are required for decoration, such old 
kinds as Phoebus, Source d’Or, and Tokio 
cannot be dispensed with.—X. 

Chrysanthemums for the open air.— The 
large modern Japanese kinds are not suitable 
for growing in the open. All of us remember 
kinds being grown in the open many years 
ago, but with the rage for the big blooms be¬ 
loved of the exhibitor, these old kinds seem 
to have disappeared. I am glad to see, how¬ 
ever, that there is a change in this respect in 
many districts. In the autumn, at Rayleigh, 
in Essex, I could but notice in many of the 
cottage gardens fine masses of the sorts 
named in your issue of November 23rd. In 
one garden in Essex I found a kind of an 
orange-red colour, a mass of bloom. No one 
seemed to know the name. In the gardens at 
Frognal. near Sidcup, I saw. in the third 
week in November, S«*ur Melanie, Source 
d’Or, and that fine old kind, Jules I.agravere, 
a mass of flower. Some of the single kinds 
are good for open-air culture. In growing 
these in the open, it is very unwise to give 
them rich soil, which makes the growth 
strong and coarse, and vyhioh does not bear 
the cold so well. Far better help the plants 
with manure-water, etc., when the flower- 
buds appear.—J. C. 

Early-flowering Pompon Chrysanthe¬ 
mum Diamond.— “A. W.V’ note regarding 
this variety, in. the issue of January 4th. 
p. 590, interests me, as I have grown it 
since it was first distributed. It is difficult 
to understand why the distributor of this 
variety should compare it in any way with 
that fine early-flowering Pompon, Alice But 
cher, as the new r er variety is quite distinct. 
The form of the two flowers is quite different, 
those of Alice Butcher being more compact, 
while the colour is richer. The flowers of 
Diamond are pale in comparison, and their 
form is more like that of a miniature flowered 
reflexed bloom. Both varieties are good, 
and they both have their value in their sea 
son. With me, Diamond is much later in 
coming into flower than Alice Butcher. As 
a rule, the plants of Alice Butcher are at 
their best during the second week in Octo¬ 
ber, while in the case of Diamond my plants 
were several weeks later. In early Novem¬ 
ber, Diamond, in the open border, was in 
fine condition, and from a few tw’o-year-old 
plants I gathered beautiful sprays for in 
door decoration. Diamond is taller than 
Alice Butcher, and I doubt whether it can 
really be regarded as a true early-flowerine 
variety. In a normal season the blossoms 
would probably be spoiled by frost.—A. R. H. 

Spidery Chrysanthemum Bertie Bindon. 
—This is one of the more recently-introduced 
sort*. The blossoms are freely produced, and 
are each about 2 inches across, being pure 
white, having narrow thread-like petals that 
are prettily fimbriated at the tips. When 
arranged with some of the richly-coloured 
foliage, such as that of Mahonia Aquifoliutn, 
the effect is pleasing.—A. R. H. 

Late Chrysanthenuim Winter Cheer and 
kindred varieties.— This beautiful late-flowering 
Chrysanthemum is very aptly named, and we can 
conceive nothing in the svny of Chrysanthemums more 
cheering in the dull December days than a vase of 
freshly-gathered blossoms of this striking sort. Rich 
deep-pink is a good description of its colour, although 
one well-known specialist describee it as “ rich bril¬ 
liant carmine-amaranth.” Whatever may be its true 
colour, it is very distinct and pleasing. The plant 
possesses a nice bushy habit, and when disbudded or 
partially disbudded the flowers are beautiful for all 
decorative uses. It is one of the most interesting 
sports from Framfleld Pink, which, beside the original, 
is represented by Heston White, a chaste white aort. 
Florence Heady, bronzy yellow, and a new sort shown 
at the recent market exhibition, which was of a anmc- 
what mixed bronzy mlr.tir.--_K. (J. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




January 11, 1908 


GARDENING ILL UST RAT ID. 


cot 



Trees and shrubs. 

RHODODENDRONS UNDER PINES. 
Though our cool and, in many districts, 
moist country suits most Rhododendrons, 
with no special care as to shade in warm 
and dry districts, still, in the south and east, 
where any difficulty is found in growing them, 
some good may arise from putting them in 
the shade of Pine-trees. A very successful 
grower of these plants in South Germany, 
where, though the soil is fertile, the climate 
is drier and more constantly sunny than ours, 
told me that they could not succeed with 


I planting, the battle is not worth fighting, 
and there are nurseries now from which good 
stocks of the beautiful hardy Rhododendrons 
raised from layers can be obtained. 

_ R. 

CLIMBERS ON WALLS. 
Towards winter many of these become very 
I untidy, and should now be put in order, 

| there being no reason why they should stand 
I over until March, even if Roses are among 
| them. Clematis Jackmani and C. Flammula 
require to l>e closely spurred in ; the large 
flowered varieties should have the old flower 
ing shoots cut away, and the weak growth 


may have similar treatment, unless a strong 
young shoot here and there can be laid in to 
take the place of old or exhausted ones. 
Honeysuckles respond to the spurring system, 
while the lovely coral-pink-flowered ever¬ 
green trailer, Berberidopsis corallina, needs 
only the tips of the old flowering shoots and 
weaker growths removed, tying or nailing in 
those retained. Virginian Creepers that do 
not cling to the wall should have all loose 
shoots clipped back with the shears. Myrtles 
require some cutting in each year, as they 
flower on wood made during the previous 
summer, so what pruning is to lie done must 
take place immediately after flowering. If 
this was neglected, only a thinning of the 
growth ought now to be done. Ivy is best 
cut back close early in March, when new 
growth soon covers the space again. 
Banksian Roses must not be pruned now, un¬ 
less any rampant growths that have appeared 
since the early summer pruning. The Ma¬ 
cartney Rose should be but moderately 
pruned. B. 


SEASIDE SHRUBS. 

The number of shrubs that succeed when ex¬ 
posed to salt spray is but limited, and on 
that account the few that do thrive well under 
such circumstances are doubly valuable from 
a planter’s point of view. Such is the 
Tamarisk (Tamarix gallica), a vigorous-grow¬ 
ing shrub, producing long, feathery branches, 
terminated during summer by loose, open 
panicles of small reddish flow r ers. This shrub 
delights in a deep sandy soil, well supplied 
with moisture, requirements frequently met 
with near the sea, and for such places it is 
indispensable. This and the Furze form fine 
bushes even on the most easterly part of the 
eoast of Suffolk. T. tetrandra is a scare'* 
Caucasian shrub, and is quite as elegant as 
the common T. gallica, and flowers later, 
which is its chief value. It is little known, 
apparently, in this country, though it is 
to be found in continental lists. A near ally 
of the Tamarisk, and one that succeeds well 
under similar conditions, is the German 
Tamarisk (Tamarix or Myricaria germanica), 
a slender, upright-growing shrub, which bears 
a great general resemblance to the foregoing, 
hut which only attains to about one-half its 
height, and has longer leaves. The Sea Buck¬ 
thorn (Hippophae rhamnoides) is another 
shrub well adapted for planting in the most 
exposed spots, as strong winds off the sea 
have but little effect upon it; indeed, tho 
beautiful silvery appearance of its foliage is 
much heightened when stirred by the breeze. 
Besides the glistening white colour of the 
foliage during the autumn, it becomes laden 
with bright orange-coloured berries, and 
when in that state is remarkably handsome. 
The Sea Buckthorn is a large prickly shrub, 
which, under favourable conditions, becomes 
almost a tree. The Siberian Salt-tree (Hali- 
modendron argenteum) is a capital sea-side 
shrub, but thrives equally well in any good 
soil; and, if a little salt be occasionally 
given old plants of it, it greatly improves their 
growth. This plant is propagated from seeds, 
by cuttings of the roots, and by grafting it on 
the Laburnum or the arborescent Caragana. 
When the latter, how T ever, is used for the 
stock, it is apt to throw up suckers close to 
the ground, and, therefore, it is not so good 
for the purpose as the Laburnum, which does 
not do so. The name is derived from “Hali 
mos,” maritime, and “dendron,” a tree, in 
reference to the plant growing naturally in 
salt-fields and saline steppes in Siberia. It 
was first introduced in 1779. It forms an 
irregular, much-branched, deciduous shrub, 
from 4 feet to 8 feet high, when planted in 
the open border on its own roots ; but when 
grafted standard high on the common Labur¬ 
num, it forms one of the most graceful droop¬ 
ing plants that can adorn a lawn or shrub¬ 
bery. The leaves are alternate, abruptly 
pinnate, with two pairs of small leaflets, 
clothed with a whitish silky down, deciduous, 
and with the petioles and stipules spinose. 
The flowers are of a fine rosy-purple, sweet- 
smelling. Pea-shaped, tolerably large, and 
produced in great abundance on two and 
three-flowered peduncles, from the end of 
May to the middle of July, or even later, if 
the season be moist. The young plants, how¬ 
ever, flower but sparingly at first; but when 


them at all unless they put, them in the 
shade of a grove of Fir-trees ; and certainly 
what I saw were very good. The shade of 
Firs being of a light nature is just enough to 
encourage the plants. This view, which is 
sent us by Miss Gaisford, is of a place in 
County Wicklow, where, however, the cli¬ 
mate is charming for all such shrubs. In 
the cose of the hybrid Indian Rhododendron 
the shade and shelter of a wood might, I 
think, often be helpful in starting them. In 
planting, however, in such situations, I would 
urge all who possibly can to plant them on 
their own roots. In restricted beds in the 
garden it may be possible to watch the 
suckers that, come from Pontic Rhododen¬ 
dron, but, in any piehuvsque or expensive 

Digitized by G 0 < glC 


thinned out. Retain the long, pendulous 
shoots of C. montana, if a good show of pure 
white flowers is wanted towards the end of 
April. Where the lovely Magnolia grandi- 
flora is grown as a wall plant, some of the 
stronger shoots must be tied in, the weaker 
cut clean away, or much crowding will take 
place. On most of these robust shoots there 
appear tw o or more side shoots. These ought 
to be pulled out ; it is the centre one that 
w'ill afford the flowers from midsummer on¬ 
wards. Cydonia japonica, an old favourite, 
must be spurred back as one would a Plum- 
tree. The embryo flowers can now be noted. 
In the case of Jasminum officinale and J. 
rovolutum. cut hack to within half an inch of 
their origin all summer shoots; while Roses 


Rhododendrons under Fir-trees at. Fort granite, Co. Wicklow. From a photograph hy 
Miss Mattel Gaisford. 










608 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


January 11, 1908 


they attain size and age. they bloom pro¬ 
fusely. The pods are inflated,* hard, ovate, 
brown, and contain but few seeds. Its 
synonyms are Robinia Halodendron and 
Caraganaargentea. The Tree-Purslane (Atrip- 
lex Halimus) is a loose, rambling plant, with 
brittle, half woody branches and silvery 
leaves; of little beauty when grown under 
ordinary conditions, but by the seaside, where 
plenty of moisture exists, a really valuable 
shrub; it succeeds perfectly in such places, 
and forms fine masses, totally indifferent to 
the salt spray. Of this there is a smaller 
kind, a native of Britain—viz., A. portula- 
coides—but it is insignificant compared with 
the preceding. Among other subjects fit for 
seaside planting, but requiring to be a little 
sheltered from the full force of the wind and 
spray, may be named many of the Legu- 
minosoe, as, for instance, the Spanish 
Broom, the Laburnum, the white Broom, 
the Coluteas. Escallonias, and Hydrangea 
Hortensia. Thpse are among the most suit¬ 
able. while, under like conditions, the Elder. 
Box Thorn (Lyoium europium). the Tree- 
Groundsel (Baccharis halimifolia). and the 
various kinds of Lilacs will also thrive. 

Among evergreens mention may lx* made of 
the different varieties of Euonymus japoni- 
ous, the Arbutus, Laurustinus, and Portugal 
Laurels, while trees that may be specially 
noticed doing well near tbe sea are the Ever¬ 
green Oak, Austrian Pine, the Cluster Pino 
(P. Pinaster), the Mountain Ash, and Cu 
pressus. All the above are well-tried sub¬ 
jects. and sure to succeed in almost all posi¬ 
tions. For planting on the southern coast, 
there is a much wider range to choose from. 
Even Veronicas there make useful seaside 
shrubs, and the same may be said of 
Fuchsias, the Lemon-scented Verbena (Aloysia 
citriodora). Myrtles, and the Pittosporums, 
which form handsome bushes, while by far 
the finest plant of the beautiful white, Heath¬ 
like flowered Fabiana imbrieata that has ever 
come under my observation was growing in 
a small garden close to the sea on the coast 
of Devon. There it formed a large bush, and 
when in full flower was most conspicuous. 

P. 


UNMUTILATED SHRUBS. 

It is curious and most depressing to note the 
way in which shrubs generally are grown, or 
rather mown, both above and below. Owing 
to the bud influence of habit, the very men 
who ought to protect and encourage this 
beautiful shrub-life are continually employed 
in taking the most direct means to make all 
beauty impossible; and this not merely in 
small places, but also in the public parks, 
where many acres of these dismal shrubberies 
may be seen. Ten shrubs stand where only 
one could find room to grow well, and each 
of the ten so mutilated above with knives 
and below with the spade (wholly needless in 
any established shrubbery), that each re¬ 
mains for lift 1 in the scarecrow stage. Very 
often the planter is to blame for putting in 
six plants where one would do. That even 
the meanest shrub should be allowed to at 
tain its Full developin'nit unmutilated by the 
knife or spade, and uninjured by its neigh 
hours, is a rule that might be safely laid 
down in many a garden. The one unvarying 
rule of procedure in pruning shrubs ks to 
treat every plant in exactly the same way, 
and, inasmuch n-s every plant has individual 
peculiarities, and all the species have varied 
habits of growth, and are used for different 
purposes, the east iron rule of uniformity is 
fatal. No universal law can be laid down, 
but for shrubs grown for their flowers there 
are a few simple directions which no one 
should neglect. The shrubs which bloom 
early in the spring should, of course, 
never l>e pruned in the autumn. The 
flower-buds of such varieties are formed on 
the wood made during the summer, and 
when those branc hes are cut off, there can be 
no bloom, for no buds are left to open. 
Early-flowering Spiraeas, for example, like 8. 
Thunbcrgi. have buds almost ready to 
open now. But they will pass safely 
through the winter, and be ready to burst 
into bloom under the influence of the earliest 
genial spring days. Wait till after they have 
bloomed next spring, aud then cut them 
sharply in. This will encourage the growth 
of new wood—just th/w^o(L which \vjll Jjear 

Digitizes by VjUUQtC 


flowers the following year—and the yield 
will be abundant. Late-blooming flowers ap¬ 
pear upon the growth made during the same 
year. Such shrubs can be pruned in winter, 
or very early in the spring. Take the Hydran¬ 
gea paniculata grandiflora, for example. Cut 
back the wood of last year to a couple of 
eves. Then, during next summer, cut out 
tiie weakest shoots, and the result in Septem¬ 
ber will be immense blooms at. the extremity 
of every strong branch. The late-flowering 
Tamarisk, which, by the way, is much better 
than the other one in ordinary cultivation, 
which flowers in June, when cut back on this 
plan, makes an amazing growth, and bears 
waving plumes of the most delicate form and 
colour. But shrubs are not grown for 
flowers alone, and the time and method of 
pruning must be varied to suit the purpose 
intended. Study the habit of each shrub, 
and never lift the knife against one until 
you can give an intelligent reason for so 
doing. 


NOTFS AXI) Ji'EPLIF,S. 

Trees and shrubs for the Downs.— Would you 
l»e good enough to tell rne what trees and shrubs 
would he most likely to grow in a garden situated on 
the Downs in a very exposed position clo«e to the sea? 
The soil is chalky.—K. V. A. 

[The question is fully treated in n booK 
recently published, “The Garden Beautiful 
and Home Woods** (J. Murray), in which 
there is a chapter on Down planting. As re¬ 
gards the flowers, keep to Carnations, Roses, 
and dwarf choice herbaceous plants mainly. 
—Ed.] 

Flowering shrubs for South-west Ireland - 

Kindly say what tender flowering shrubs would suc¬ 
ceed in the South-west of Ireland? 1 would like the 
names of some of the rarer varieties. The Myrtle 
grows with rne 8 feet high ; Bay-trees to 15 feet or 
20 feet; Hydrangeas. Cordylines, and Marlchal Niel 
Boses grow well in the open. The soil is gravel, and 
suits Rhododendrons and Azaleas.—S. G. 1*. 11. 

[In such delightful and exceptional con¬ 
ditions. the question, to us, would rather be : 
What could you not grow? If, however, you 
wish for a complete collection, it might be 
best to see what already grows in your regions, 
at Mr. Beamish’s, Ashbourne, or at Fota, or 
in almost any good garden in that district. 
You will find a very interesting article deal¬ 
ing with tender shrubs that succeed in the 
west and south-west of England at page 147 
of the July number of 1903 of Flora and 
Sylva , which can be had of the publisher. 
The same subject is dealt with in these pages 
on March 16th, 1907. page 119, and March 
23rd, 1907. page 43 .—Ed.] 

The autumn-flowered Mezereon (Daphne 
Mezereum grandiflorum).—This is a very old, 
yet at the same time uncommon, variety, 
being rarely met with in gardens. it 
is, however, catalogued by most nurserymen 
who make a specialty of flowering shrubs, 
and, what is more, it may be obtained at a 
moderate price. Tbe autumn-flowered 
Mezereon was known to Loudon over sixty 
years ago. All the forms of the Mezereon 
are pretty, and well worth a place in any 
garden, large or small. The blooms of the 
autumn flowered kind are, compared with 
those of the type, considerably larger, being 
sometimes nearly three-quarters of an inch 
across, while they are also of a richer purple. 
The pleasing fragrance, so pronounced in the 
ease of the common kind, is also possessed 
to an equal extent by its progeny. In one 
respect, however, it differs considerably from 
the typical form, and that is, the blossoms 
arc always more or less scattered, and at no 
time are they disposed in a dense spike-like 
fashion, as presented by Daphne Mezereum 
in late winter or early spring. This is as 
might be expected, for the flowering period 
of the autumn-blooming kind extends over a 
much longer time. Apart from the two forms 
of the Mezereon above alluded to, there are 
others, notably atro-rubruui, in which the 
flowers are deeper in colour than those of 
the type; flore albo, with white blossoms; 
while the Kew Hand List contains the name 
of flore albo plena, which must be exceed¬ 
ingly rare.—X . 

The scarlet-fruited Thorn (Crataegus coc- 
cinea).—Assuredly, amongst the most orna¬ 
mental of deciduous shrubs or small trees 
during the autumn months is the North 
United States Cratapgus coccinea, with itR 


clusters of large coral-red fruits. It Is a 
species far too seldom met with in parks and 
gardens. In spring its large clusters of w'hite 
flowers are very showy, and the decaying 
leaves in late autumn assume a rich golden- 
yellow colour, more or less at times inclining 
to scarlet. Now and then it attains a height 
of 20 feet. There are numerous forms, all 
of which are very ornamental, and well worth 
a place in the shrubbery; as, however, these 
must be grafted or worked on the common 
type, the latter for general purposes is the 
best. It is readily raised from seeds, either 
imported ones or from those ripened in this 
country, and soon makes a good-sized speci¬ 
men. Few deciduous trees are more desir¬ 
able, and make more beautiful objects, if 
grown singly in conspicuous spots in the 
pleasure-ground. 

Pyrus Malus floribunda.— This valuable 
shrub or small tree should be thought of 
during the coming planting season, as it is 
one of the finest of all spring-flowering sub¬ 
jects. Seen iri the sheen of a spring day sun. 
it is indeed “a thing of beauty.” and if not 
“a joy for ever,” at least a joy for some 
weeks. In the hud state* the flowers are of a 
rich blood-colour, passing to carmine-pink, 
and, as the bloom expands, to delicate pink 
and white. The foliage, which appears with 
the bloom, is a rich dark green. When 1 
sav that the flowers are chaste enough to he 
employed in bouquets or as table decorations, 
that the plant is perfectly hardy, and that it 
may be grown as a bush, a pyramid, or a 
standard. I presume I have said enough to 
indues’ those interested in such plants to see 
it and judge for themselves.—W. 

OUTDOOR PLANT8. 

PLANTING CLEMATISES. 

Much has been written from time to time 
about the beauty of Clematises and their 
value both as wall climbers and for training 
over arches, and I submit that they have not 
been over-estimated, for. with the exception 
perhaps, of Roses, there are few flowering 
climbers that make a house or garden more 
attractive. In the summer, not a few who are 
interested iri a garden take notes for another 
year as to what they purpose planting, and 
to those who fix upon Clematises, may I say 
that the best time to plant is not spring, but 
autumn. All the Clematises are gross feeders, 
and to til is end the ground should Ik* pre¬ 
pared for their reception. It is well, in the 
first place, to be assured of perfect drainage : 
and, if need be, the soil should la* removed 
to a depth of 3 feet, and pieces of brick 
thrown in, covering these with good fibrous 
turf and half-rotted (lung, planting therein. 
There is everything’ to gain bv being at a 
little trouble in the matter of compost, as the 
difference between Clematises planted in a 
good compost and those put in regardless of 
the quality of the soil is most marked. 

WOOPB A ST WIl'K. 


The advantage of room.— “It often pays 
to keep a berl empty for a few months—you 
never know what you want Ik* fore the season 
is over.” So spoke a gardener who was a 
firm believer in giving plants plenty of space, 
no matter whether they were flowers or vege¬ 
tables. Yes : there is an advantage in hav¬ 
ing a piece of ground spare in a garden, but 
it is not always recognised. Where her¬ 
baceous plants are grown to any extent, it is 
important, that each subject should have its 
proper space, and when this does not obtain 
confusion follows sooner or later. The same 
thing is often seen amongst- hardy annuals. 
We sow' in April and May with anything but 
a careful band, and after the plants are up it 
is then when the mistake is seen of sowing 
too thickly, despite the old warning on the 
seed packet—“sow thinly.” In most eases, 
seedlings do not get thinned sufficiently, and 
consequently it becomes a question as to the 
“survival of the fittest.” Unfortunately, the 
fittest do not. always survive. They exist for 
a time, and then die from sheer exhaustion, 
or produce only a few flowers that are 
scarcely worth the name. Then, too, in the 
matter of growing on biennials, we forget at 
“pricking out time'- that months must 

URBANA-CH/ 


•j 



January II, 1908 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


609 


elapse before they can be placed in their 
final quarters, and long before that period j 
arrives they have become cramped for room. 
A large bed for planting out subjects that J 
have some months before them before they | 
can be disposed of finally is an asset in a 
garden, and those who at. the outset of a I 
season can afford to provide such space will 
find it most convenient as the months pass | 
by to transfer subjects there as occasion re¬ 
quires.—T ownsman. 


GROUPING PLANTS. 

The art of grouping the finer plants for effect 
is yet in its infancy— I mean picturesque, not 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Violet La France. —This is undoubtedly the 
best single Violet grown. Those who have 
not grown it should give it a trial, either in 
the open garden or under glass. In Gar¬ 
dening for November 23rd Mr. Ward gave 
good instructions on the culture of this kind. 
About four years ago I was visiting the gar¬ 
dens of the Royal Horticultural Society at 
Wisley in October, where I saw this and 
many other kinds growing side by side, La 
France eclipsing all the others from a flower¬ 
ing point of view. All were planted in a 
.sheltered position, and were to remain there 
all the winter. At the close of November. 



Flame-flowers and Reed Grass in Mr. Beamish's garden at Ashbourne, near Cork. 


mechanical, grouping. The illustration shows 
a group in Mr. Beamish’s garden at Ash¬ 
bourne, Co. Cork, which struck me very much 
for its beautiful association of very large kinds 
of Torch-Lily (Kniphophia) and the Great 
Reed of South Europe, which does very well 
there. I never saw a more effective or hand¬ 
some thing, made of plants available, in many 
gardens. This Great Reed we know is quite 
hardy and free as far north as Norfolk, and 
in many parts of the south, and should not, 
we think, be cut down in winter, but be 
cosily protected with Bracken or any other 
light material to a depth of 10 inches or 
12 inches about the ro cAa. , R. 


Google 


at a meeting of the Gardeners’ Mutual Im- i 
provement Society at Basingstoke, an ama¬ 
teur grower brought flowers of this kind as 
large as those of a Tufted Pansy. He stated 
he had grown all the kinds procurable, but 
found no kind equal this, both for the open 
and for placing in frames for winter. When 
at Forde Abbey, I tried many kinds, but 
found nothing to equal La France. In that 
low position, the long-stemmed kinds, such 
as California, etc., made such very large 
leaves, which suffered so much from wet 
and frost that frequently most of the crowns 
rotted, while La France continued to bloom : 
all through the winter. In positions where I 


it is low and damp, Violets need to be 
grown in exposed positions through the sum¬ 
mer, to obtain sunlight to ripen and solidify 
the growth to bloom in winter.— John 
Crook. 

Flag Irises. —Of all the Irises, perhaps the 
Flag Irisps are the hardiest; certainly they 
will stand the roughest, treatment, and grow 
I in places where other subjects often fail. 

In the open air of the country they grow 
' into huge clumps, blooming in June and July, 
and almost rival the Pteonies in point of 
j colour. It is surprising how quickly a bit of 
I root will grow, and no weather seems to affect 
them. The ground may be frost-bound for 
1 weeks, but in the spring the green of the new 
foliage is sure to come, and in the town gar¬ 
den they bloom just as freely, although the 
colour of their blooms may not be quite so 
bright,.— Derby. 

Are mixed borders satisfactory?— This 
was a question asked some months ago by 
someone who had tried growing hardy plants, 
annuals, and bedding plants in one long bor¬ 
der, and who afterwards admitted that the 
arrangement was not altogether satisfactory. 
The fact was, too many things had been 
planted, without allowing for the growth of 
hardy plants, many of which had completely 
over-grown the bedding plants, and it was 
difficult to find them. My own idea is that, 
whilst annuals may be grown with Pelar¬ 
goniums, etc., the better plan is. if possible, 
to let hardy things have a border to them¬ 
selves.—T ownsman. 

Dividing and re-labelling hardy plants. 

—Sometimes during January and February 
there are spells of mild weather, in which 
one may take up and divide certain hardy 
plants without much detriment. In sheltered 
gardens, where there are protecting walls 
and fences, there is not much fear of any ill 
results following, so long as the plants have 
a mulch of litter. I have never experienced 
any difficulty in dividing strong-growing sub¬ 
jects like Starworts and German Irises, 
Phloxes and Campanulas. Whenever divi¬ 
sion or removal takes place, whether now or 
later in the spring, it is well to remember to 
have labels ready, otherwise it not infre¬ 
quently happens that, in forking or digging 
the border afterwards, plants may be cut 
through and damaged.—F. W. D. 

Picotee v. Carnation. -I notice in your 
issue of to-day (December 28th) 4 ‘D.” states 
in his note on “Picotee v. Carnation” that, 
so far, there are no flowers of the edged or 
Picotee form among the winter-blooming or 
Tree-Carnations. Perhaps lie has never seen 
a flower of Golden Eagle, a yellow ground 
Carnation with a wire edge of pink. It is 
quite as much a Picotee. as regards its edge, 
as many of the border Carnations that are 
classed, or, at any rate, used to be classed, 
as Pieotees. I think there is very little 
doubt but that we shall see in a few years 
Pieotees among the Tree-Carnations. I have 
several seedlings among last year’s batch 
which are yellow ground fancies, and. if what 
your correspondent says is correct, it is quite 
likely that, “by constant cross-breeding and 
selection the colouring on the petals” may 
be “purified and driven out, as it were, to the 
extreme edge, and thus become heavy or light 
edged, such as we see now.”—H. Burnett. 
Guernsey. 

Clematis montana. —I have sometimes heard 
people remark, in reference to some object in their 
Hardens that they desired to conceal: “I wish I 
could get something to grow over it quickly.” One 
of the best plants for such a purpose is Clematis 
montana, winch will simply smother an arbour or 
verandah when once it has become established. In 
May and June innumerable star-like blossoms appear, 
and the long sprays are a pleasing feature in any 
garden. I have one over a trellis, and it never fails 
to bloom, all that is done in the way of pruning 
being to shorten the growths each year.— Townsman. 

Early harbingers—On a wall in a neighbour’s 
garden, well protected, I can see the yellow blossoms 
of the Winter Jasmine. A few Aconites on a border 
close by want a few hours’ sun to encourage their 
golden petals to expand; and in the same border, 
before very long, Sciilas, Chiunodoxas, and Snowdrojis 
will show bloom.—L e.vhurst. 


Index to Volume XXVIII. — The binding covers 
(price Is. 6d. each, past free, Is. Pd.) and Index (3d., 
jiast free, 3ld.) for Volume XXVIII. are now r ready, 
and may be had 6f all newsagents, or of the Pub¬ 
lisher, post free, 2a. for the two. 









GARDENING ILL V ST BA TE L>. 


January 11, 1908 


m 


INDOOR PLANT& 

ZONAL PELARGONIUMS IN WINTER. 
Both “H. S.” and “Townsman” (November 
23rd, page 510) are of one mind as regards 
the value of the Zonal Pelargonium for win¬ 
ter, though they differ somewhat as to the 
season of propagation. One prefers autumn 
propagation, and believes this gives advan¬ 
tages over cuttings rooted in spring. This 
may or may not be true, but, at all events, 
each course is made to serve the purpose 
well, so that there is not so much to lose or 
gain on this score, so long as the after-treat¬ 
ment is right. One point I would like to em¬ 
phasise, and that is the need for a fairly 
liberal use of the ventilators when the 
weather permits, jointly with some warmth 
from the hot-water pipes. Without fire-heat., 
damping of the flowers will be sure to follow', 
while too much heat, coupled with closed 
ventilators, will assuredly produce a freedom 
of leaf-growth which at once destroys the 
prospect of flowers. It is a matter of choice 
whether single, double, or semi-double kinds 
are chosen. Certainly there axe more variety 
of shade and distinctly brighter hues obtain¬ 
able from the singles, but if the flowers are 
used for cutting, the doubles, or rather, semi¬ 
doubles, are the best, because they can be 
packed for travel so much better. For home 
use it does not so much matter. If the 
plants are unduly coddled, a rampant leaf 
and stem growdh follows; indeed, it is diffi¬ 
cult to suppress these tendencies, especially 
if water with added stimulant is given. The 
Zonal Pelargonium must certainly be especi¬ 
ally prepared for wdnter blooming by outdoor 
treatment all the summer, giving them all the 
air and sun available, and pinching off the 
flower-buds in the early stages of their 
growth. They will, of course, fill their pots, 
be they 5-inch, 6-inch, or 7-inch in size, by 
the early autumn, when a little feeding with 
chemical or liquid-manures will be advan¬ 
tageous ; but in the short days of winter it 
must be used sparingly, so that no undue 
luxuriance is set up. All flower trusses 
should be removed before the seed stage is 
reached, as this taxes the plant unduly, and 
shortens the flowering season. 

W. S. 


GROWING AMARYLLISES. 

I SHOULD be glad to have some practical hints as to 
the growing of Amaryllises? They are now resting, 
and are dust dry. 1 cannot flower them.—GEO. A. 
Fai.Kner. 

-I should lie obliged if any of your corres¬ 
pondents could tell me how to treat Amaryllis (Hip- 
pea-strum)? 1 have raised a lot from seed, and the 
first flowered in ]90 r ). They failed to bloom in 1900 
and 1907, and still show no sign of flowering. Ought 
they to flower every year, and how ought they to be 
treated ?-W. 

[These are very easily grown when they re¬ 
ceive the treatment best adapted to their re¬ 
quirements. They have a season of growth 
and a season when they are apparently at 
rest—indeed, we use the term “resting 
period ” when the leaves die off, and the 
bulbs are. as it were, dormant, although they 
are not altogether in this state, for, during 
the so-called resting-period, the flower- 
scapes are in course of formation within the 
bulbs, and sometimes they push out even 
before the time has arrived for the bulbs to 
be started into growth again. The best cul¬ 
tivators of these plants repot them at any 
time from the beginning to the end of 
January. As soon as they are repotted, they 
are plunged to the rims of their pots in 
a tan-bed or any other bed where the roots 
are subjected to a gentle bottom-heat, with 
the minimum temperature of the house about 
50 degs. They must not receive any water 
at least for a month after they have been 
potted, as the water hangs round the bulbs, 
and in many instances causes decay to set in, 
which spreads rapidly, and may destroy some 
of the finest varieties. When the plants have 
made some growth, and it is seen that they 
are dry at the roots, water them with tepid 
rain-water. As they advance in growth, in¬ 
crease the temperature of the house to 
5 j degs. in February and 00 degs. in March, 
when they will flower. When in bloom, the 
plants may he removed to the greenhouse or 
conservatory, but be placed in heat again 
when the flowers pass away. The prod no- 

Digitized by Google 


lion of flower-scapes takes a good deal out of 
the bulbs, a3 they shrink up very much in¬ 
deed up to the time the blooms are developed. 

AlL that shrinkage must be made good again 
when the flowering period is over, and here 
comes the crucial point in the culture of the 
Amaryllis. It is the custom with some gar¬ 
deners to push the plants into out-of-the-way 
corners, where they are more likely to be 
neglected than well cared for. It stands to 
reason that, if good flow r ering bulbs are to 
be produced the following season, the plants 
must lie kept in a good growing condition 
until the bulbs are matured. They require a 
hot-house temperature until the end of 
August, when they begin to show signs that 
growth is completed, and more air and light, 
w ith not much water, will be the best condi¬ 
tions under which growth may be finished lip. 
September, October, November, and Decem¬ 
ber are the months in which they arc sup¬ 
posed to rest. During that time no water is 
required. The best potting soil is that 
formed of about three parts fibrous loam, one 
of light, fibrous peat, and one of leaf-mould, 
w r ith the addition of some fine, white sand 
and charcoal, if it is readily obtainable. It 
is necessary to shake all the old potting-soil 
from off the roots, so that all dead and decay¬ 
ing roots may be removed w ith it; and the 
bulbs themselves may have to be examined, 
in case any decayed portions may be found 
upon them. Remove all the decayed por¬ 
tions, and thickly dust the parts with quick¬ 
lime or powdered charcoal.] 

THE AMATEUR’S GREENHOUSE IN 
WINTER. 

The maintenance of a constant genial tem- 
jjerature in all glass structures through the 
depth of winter is, of course, a great element 
of success ; but almost, if not quite, equally 
important is the attention given to the supply 
of moisture—both at the roots of plants and 
ill the atmosphere—and the cleanliness of 
everything that the house or pit contains. 
Bedding-out plants in store-pots, and, indeed, 
any kinds that were struck late in the sea¬ 
son, and are now standing more or less 
thickly, can hardly be gone over too fre¬ 
quently at this season. Every dead leaf, or 
trace of decay or mildew, should be picked 
off. Any plants that require a fresh supply 
of moisture—but only those that really need 
it—should be watered, and the shelf, or 
stage, on which they 6tund should be swept 
down. The mere operation of “setting over” 
a batch of plants does them a great deal of 
good, and the whole of the contents of the 
house should be gone over in this way at 
least once a week, by degrees, if not all at the 
same time. The floor should lie swept every 
day, though it is a good plan to avoid the 
necessity for this by placing dead leaves or 
other rubbish in a box, and removing them 
outside at once, instead of throwing them on 
the floor, as is mostly done. Most plants, 
such as Pelargoniums, Fuchsias, etc., that 
are nearly, or quite, dormant should be kept 
rather dry at the root.; but, at the same 
time, it is’a great mistake to let them become 
so dry as to cause the roots to perish, and 
this easily occurs if the pots are standing 
over or near hot-water pipes or a flue. 

All watering should now be performed in 
the forenoon—if possible, a bright morning 
should be chosen for a good all-round water¬ 
ing, so that any superfluous moisture may dis¬ 
appear before night. There is a great dif¬ 
ference in greenhouses as regards moisture, 
some licing naturally so damp that almost 
every drop of water spilt in winter has a 
more or less injurious effect; while in the 
case of o^her houses it becomes necessary to 
sprinkle the floor, and even the staging, fre¬ 
quently, to prevent dryness. In any case, a 
parched atmosphere is injurious, and should 
bo carefully avoided. Store-pots of Pelar¬ 
goniums and other plants appear to succeed 
better in winter when standing on shelves or 
open lath or board staging near the glass 
than on damp ash-beds, owing, probably, to 
the freer circulation of air around them. 
These little matters may seem insignificant 
to some, but it should be borne in mind that 
it is in these little details that good culture 
consists, and in towns where plants suffer so 
much from impure air, want of light, etc., 


one cannot be too particular. As regards 
temperature, all greenhouse and bedding- 
plants will be found to succeed better when 
the thermometer ranges from 45 degs. at 
night— or 40 clegs, in severe frost—to 50 degs. 
in the daytime, than when it is allowed to 
fall lower or rise much higher. Of course, 
5 degs. or so extra should be allowed on a 
sunny day. To afford good results a town 
greenhouse should be constructed with wide 
panes of glass (which must be kept clean), 
the staging so arranged as to bring the plants 
to within a couple of feet of the glass. 
It should also l>e placed in the most open 
position available, as far from high buildings 
or walls as possible. Camellias and other 
plants that are to be brought into bloom early 
will Iks greatly benefited by being sprinkled 
overhead freely on bright mornings : this 
will help them as much as—nay, more than— 
several extra degrees of heat, for no kind of 
plant will endure early or hard forcing under 
the conditions of a town garden. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Pentas carnea. —In a warm greenhouse or 
the coolest part of the stove this little sub¬ 
shrub will flower nearly throughout the year, 
and at no time are its pretty blush-coloured 
flowers more appreciated than during the 
winter months. If stopped during its earlier 
stages, it forms a neat, bushy, little speci¬ 
men, every shoot of which will, in its turn, 
bear a flattened cluster of flowers. Individu¬ 
ally, they are in shape a good deal like those 
of a Bouvardia; indeed, they are, from a 
botanical standpoint, nearly related. A dis¬ 
tinct variety (P. c. kermesina) is in cultiva¬ 
tion, though not. so often met with as P. 
carnea itself. In kermesina the growth is 
less vigorous, while the flowers, somewhat 
smaller than those of the other, are of a 
bright carmine-rose. The successful cultiva¬ 
tion of these two forms of Pentas is an easy 
matter. They strike readily from cuttings of 
the young growing shoots, put into sandy 
soil in a cLose propagating-case at any time 
during the spring and summer months. The 
spring, however, is the best time, as, if grown 
on without delay, the young plants so ob¬ 
tained will flower during the forthcoming 
autumn and winter. A mixture of loam, leaf- 
mould, and sand will suit them well, and ns 
the pots get full of roots a little liquid- 
manure will be helpful—T. C. 

Cinerarias and their treatment now. - 
Cinerarias are so wonderfully bright and 
showy that, despite what some people say 
against them, they are worthy of a place in 
any greenhouse. It is admitted that, if 
neglected, or coddled, they are prone to 
green fly and the dreaded red-spider, but the 
fault of plants getting into such a state is 
largely in the hands of the grower. If it is 
understood that they are all but hardy, it 
will be obvious that a deal of heat is not 
essential; in fact, at certain stages an over¬ 
heated place is positively harmful. In the 
general run of houses where plants are win¬ 
tered, and a miscellaneous collection is 
grown, no very great heat is necessary, and 
in such company Cinerarias may bo success¬ 
fully grown. At present, one should aim at 
temperate conditions, avoiding dryness at the 
roots, and, in the case of plants developing 
buds, give them w’eak stimulants once or 
twice a week. Formerly it was thought best 
to have sturdy dwarf plants, but with the 
advent of the Stellatn forms, whose graceful 
branches of bloom have captivated so many, 
w'e hear less about the old varieties. Still, 
for bold, bright trusses of bloom, with 
equally bold leaves, there is much to be said 
in favour of keeping them. One cannot over¬ 
look the fact, however, that the Stella!a 
varieties are very useful for cutting.— Wood- 

BA8TWICK. 

Plumbagos. —One of tlie best plants for climb¬ 
ing over a trellis under glass is t-lie Plumbago and 
p. capensis, with its pale-blue flowers, Is a favourite 
with many. 1 have grown it in this way in the 
house, but prefer to have it. in pots, for the reason 
that it is advantageous to be able to turn the plants 
out-of-doors for a time after blooming. If left under 
glass, Plumbagos are apt to become debilitated, ami 
they lose their vitality if kept, in a greenhouse con¬ 
tinuously, hence the advisability of giving them a 
few weeks in the open air. They strike readily 
enough from cuttings of ripened wood placed in pots 
of sand and loam. and. if possible, they should be 
taken at a joint-:--F. W. lb 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




January 11, 1908 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


611 


R08ES. 

MME. MINA BARBANSON. 

There are some who contend that the above- 
named variety is not wanted, seeing that we 
have Roses of a somewhat similar colour in 
Mme. Abel Chatenay, Ferdinand Jamin, etc.; 
but all who have grown Mme. Mina Bar- 
banson, especially as a pot Rose, are loud 
in its praises. Its chief beauty is in the 
large petals that go to the formation of a 
deep, if somewhat thin, flower, and the fresh¬ 
ness of the silvery-pink colour, combined with 
a sweet fragrance and a free-flowering habit, 
makes it a most useful Rose in the somewhat 
extensive group of Hybrid Teas. 

Mme. Mina Barbanson was sent out by 
Messrs. Soupert et Not ting in 1901, so that it 
cannot be termed an old Rose. As before 
slated, it is a fine Rose for pot culture, espe¬ 
cially grown on the cool system. Under this 
treatment the petals develop to an extra¬ 
ordinary size, and if the blooms are tied with 
wool when in the bud state, they will becomo 
much elongated, making a truly beautiful 
flower when fully developed. 

Many of the Hybrid Teas are taking the 


troduction, admirably suited for pot culture, 
are Betty, Lady Ashtown, Countess of Annes- 
ley, Countess of Gosford, Gustave Gruner- 
wald, Mme. Philippe Rivoire, Mme. Leon 
Pain, and Melanie Soupert, all of which 
could be grown under the cool system. 

Rosa. 


DWARF HYBRID PERPETUALS FOR 
FORCING. 

All pot plants of the above intended for 
forcing should no longer remain outside. 
Where there is no room for them in the 
houses in which they are to bloom, the 
plants should at once be removed to pits or 
frames. The plants constituting the earliest 
batches are, of course, already housed, and 
in the case of the earliest, breaking into 
growth. Successional batches are also 
housed, while those intended for the latest 
will be under cover in a few days. In the 
early part of the recent heavy rains I took 
the precaution to throw all my plants then 
outside on their sides. This had the desired 
effect, and saved them from many repeated 
soakings. the result being that these particu¬ 
lar plants are comparatively dry at the root. 
Where this is the case, much valuable time 



Rose Mme. Mina Barbanson. 


place of the true Teas for indoor culture. 
All who have grown Roses under glass know 
full well the difficulty of obtaining good re¬ 
sults from varieties of the Catherine Mermet 
tribe, excepting in a rather strong heat; 
in fact, most of the true Teas are the better 
for a temperature of 55 dogs, to 60 dogs, at 
night, although some sorts, such as Mme. 
Hoste, Anna Olliviervand Souvenir d’un Ami, 
may be grown successfully in a much lower 
temperature. But, with the exception, per¬ 
haps, of the Kaiserin Augusta Victoria group, 
the whole of the Hybrid Teas are adapted 
to an ordinary greenhouse temperature, and 
in many cases they much prefer it, and the 
development, both in intensity of colour and 
in quality of blossom, is much superior than 
when forced in a high temperature. 

Amateurs who possess greenhouses with 
very little provision for artificial heat may 
take comfort from the fact that very fine 
Roses may be grown in such houses, and if 
even they possess no greenhouse at all, but 
simply some pits with gloss lights, very 
beautiful Roses of the H.P. and II.T. sec¬ 
tions may be successfully grown. The Rose 
under notice wouh* 
mend, 

A! few other spl 


ild_J>e one I shauld 
Slid illCy^r i e t ifc?df itci 


cent jn- 


wilL be saved when housed, such plants being 
ready for pruning ten days at least in ad¬ 
vance of those that have stood up, and there¬ 
fore received all the rain. When housed, 

f et the soil dried up as quickly as possible, 
ut let this be done in a cold house. Under 
no circumstances should heat be thus 
applied. Stand the plants thinly in a very 
airy house or pit, raise them on pots if no 
staging exists, and open all ventilators, par¬ 
ticularly the side ones, that a free current of 
air may circulate about the pots. An excel¬ 
lent type of pit or frame for such a purpose 
is one made of wood, in the sides of which 
provision has been made for one of the boards 
at back and front to work on hinges at 
9 inches from the ground. By this means 
abundance of air may be given, even when 
the rain is descending in torrents. 

At any time, when sufficiently dry at the 
root, the plants may be pruned, and. indeed, 
the sooner the better, as the newly made 
roots are not benefited by continued dryness 
at such a time. With respect to pruning, 
some growers merely shorten back each year 
to one or two eyes, and would never dream 
of pruning back to older wood. Provided the 
wood is satisfactory, the shortening back is 
sufficient, but too frequently by continued 
pot culture the extrerqe growths become 


weakened. In this case I prune freely, and 
place such plants in one of the succession 
houses, where they have a chance of making 
early growth, and, consequently, well- 
matured shoots for another year. Last year 
I treated some fifty plants thus that had be¬ 
come rather rough-looking, and the result 
was so satisfactory that I shall not hesitate 
in the future. A rough old plant may often 
be resuscitated in this way, and if the roots 
are fairly healthy, there need not be much 
fear about the result. Indeed, I am inclined 
to think that much more harm may follow 
from under-pruning than what I will term 
severe pruning. Continued under pruning 
for a few seasons frequently results in a much 
weakened plant, while hard or severe prun¬ 
ing more often than otherwise results in good 
breaks from near the base, and these in turn 
are again capable of renewing the plant on 
a future day. In these rather extreme cases 
the nearer we prune to the union of stock and 
scion the better, and thus bring into exist¬ 
ence some of the buds that have so long lain 
dormant. I favour hard pruning, again, 
rather than tying down the shoots, as my 
experience proves this to be no gain, hut the 
reverse. Some growers tie down the shoots 
to induce several breaks from the same, and 
it is just possible they get this as a result. 
I have myself in perhaps hundreds of in¬ 
stances; but I also find, in the year after, 
that I have only a series of weakened shoots 
to fall back upon, and that. \ am worse off in 
the end. I have experienced this so many 
times that I have now abandoned it alto¬ 
gether. 

Plants that have been attacked by mildew 
should not be pruned in the growing house, 
if possible. The remaining stems may be 
also painted over with a sulphur wash, and 
the pipes coated in readiness. Watch for the, 
buds pushing forth, and note how each will 
syvarm with green-fly as they appear. It is 
simply astounding how they Warm on these 
appearing buds, and a thorough fumigating 
should be given at once, and again in a few 
days so as to catch the successional broods. 
Keep the temperature at from 45 degs. to 
50 degs., the former being best for the first 
month. Maintain a comparatively dry at¬ 
mosphere within the house, and "raise the 
plants as near to the light as possible. 


NOTES AND HE PLIES. 

Roses in pots — I should be greatly obliged if you 
would name a few good Roses to grow iu pots in an 
amateur’s greenhouse during the coming 6eason? I 
have become a little tired of my present stock, having 
grown some of the sorts for many years, and, though 
all are good, should like something newer. J have at 
present: La France, Kaiserin Augusta Victoria, 
Catherine Mermet, Comtesse de Nadaillac, The Bride, 
Marie van Houtte, Souv. de Pierre Notting. I have 
had till recently: Mme. Falcot, Marshal Niel, Sun¬ 
set, Hon. Edith Gifford, Niphetos. Out-of-doors I 
have. Mme. Abel Chatenay, Killarney, W. A. 
Richardson, Lady Roberts, Liberty, Richmond. Phari- 
saer. White Maman Cochet. Marie Crotier, Captain 
Hayward, Gustave Regis, Mrs. Paul, Mme. Isaac 
Perriere. Mrs. Edward Mawley, Mme. Edmec Metz, 
Frau Karl Druschki. so do not wish to repeat these 
in the greenhouse. I should like to have varieties as 
mildew-proof as possible, this being, in my view, the 
great drawback to bo many good Roses (and the cata¬ 
logues say nothing about it:). I like the colour of 
Comtesse de Nadaillac. but it requires much more 
heat than the others.— CLUSE. 

[Your collection of indoor and outdoor 
Rosea is an excellent one, and you will re¬ 
quire sorts of good quality to improve your 
present collection. As you have a preference 
for Roses of the Comtesse de Nadaillac type, 
there can be no doubt that Mme. Constant 
Soupert is the one to grow. This is, evi¬ 
dently, going to be a very fine Rose for all 
purposes. Then there is Mrs. Aaron Ward, 
another fine Rose, that will be sure to be 
wanted. We can strongly recommend 
Joseph Hill, Paul Lede, Marquise de Sinety, 
Melanie Soupert, Instituteur Sirdley, Lena, 
and Le Progres. There are other first-class 
sorts, such as Hugh Dickson, Oberhofgartner 
Singer. Dean Hole, Lady Ashtown, Mme. 
Leon Pain, Mme. Philippe Rivoire, Mrs. 
Myles Kennedy, Celia, Dora, Dr. Wm. Gor¬ 
don, Mme. Gamier, Countess of Annesley, 
and several others. You certainly should 
have Antoine Rivoire. Lady Battersea, 
Boadicea, Mme. Antoine Mari, although 
somewhat older than the above-named sorts. 
But they are so good that you will not regret 
growing them.] 











613 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


January 11, 1008 


PARPEN WORK. 

Conservatory.— For the present there will 
be Chrysanthemums, and so long as they 
last the temperature may remain .about 
50 degs. at night, with free ventilation 
during the day ; but when we have to depend 
largely upon forced flowers, a little more 
heat may be given, and it will be an advan¬ 
tage if forced plants can stay a day or two in 
An intermediate house on their way to the 
conservatory. Salvia splendens, for the most 
part, will be over, and all plants which have 
lost their effectiveness may be sorted over, 
and those intended for stock may be cut 
back and placed where some cuttings may 
be obtained when required, and all surplus 
plants thrown away. This course may be 
adopted in the case of all soft-wooded plants, 
which can be grown to a flowering size from 
cuttings in one season. There will be some 
of the soft-wooded Heaths in flower. These 
may form a group at the cool end of the 
house, where more ventilation can be given. 
Epacrises are useful winter-flowering plants, 
requiring much the same treatment as Ericas 
so far as regards soil and temperature, 
though a little more heat may be given with 
advantage, especially after the plants have 
been cut. back, which is usually done after 
flowering. Camellias will be bright now, 
and the single and semi-double varieties are 
charming for cutting. . One wonders these 
varieties should be neglected, for they are 
much more beautiful—at least, I think so— 
than the large, heavy, double flowers. The 
same remark applies just as forcibly to 
Indian Azaleas. All these beautiful single- 
flowered varieties seem to have disappeared, 
and the Belgians only send us the heavy, 
double-flowered kinds, which are certainly 
not so beautiful as the charming singles that 
we used to grow fifty years ago. Then, 
again, the Pelargoniums (show and fancy) 
that Charles Turner used to show in such 
perfect condition, were immeasurably su¬ 
perior to the heavy, lumpy things of Conti¬ 
nental origin which are grown now, where 
they are grown at all. We have plenty of 
flowers now, it is true; the Carnations, for 
instance, and, by using retarded Lilies and 
other plants, the gardener’s work is not more 
arduous than formerly; but I question if 
the collections of plants under glass are as 
interesting jus they were. Some of this- 
change is due to the demand for long- 
stemmed flowers for cutting, and the immense 
impetus given to the culture of Palms and 
other fine-leaved plants. 

Forcing-house. —There will be continuous 
movement in this house now. The night 
temperature need not exceed fit) degs. to 
Gf> degs., as, when plants are pushed severely, 
the growth during these short days will be 
weak. Any -plants from which cuttings are 
wanted may he moved to a warm house now 
to produce young shoots for cuttings. Seeds 
of Begonias, Petunias, and Verbenas may 
soon be sown, as they germinate slowly. 
Lobelias are best sown in the autumn, as 
they are more robust when grown cool; but 
if the autumn sowing has been forgotten, 
sow now in warmth, and harden off a little 
before pricking the seedlings off into boxes 
to get strong. To make sure of double 
Petunias, they should he rooted from cut¬ 
tings, and the plants may now he warmed 
up a little. I have occasionally had good 
double Petunias from seed, but it is very 
uncertain, and it is best to trust to cuttings. 
Hydrangeas, Deutzias, Spirreas, Lilacs, and 
other plants which have been prepared for 
forcing will come on more rapidly with the 
lengthening days and more sunshine. Dur 
ing bad weather, all paint and glass should 
be cleaned with soap and water, and all wall 
surfaces lime-washed, and a pound or so of 
sulphur mixed in each pail of lime-wash will 
be beneficial. Cleanliness is just as impor¬ 
tant for plants as it is for animals. 

Late vinery, -if there is a Grape room, 
late Grapes, cut with fi inches or so of wood, 
will keep ns well with the wood inserted in 
bottles of water as on the Vines. Very often 
the Grapes keep better in a room with a re¬ 
gular steady temperature of 45 degs. or so 
than in the house where the temperature at 
this season will more^rrr* less fluctuate. 
Nothing should be done/ in roo^ll^eK 


to create dust, and black Grapes retain their 
colour better when the light is subdued, so 
the blinds should always be drawn, and, if 
severe frost comes, it will be necessary to 
have a little fire to keep the temperature 
steady. When the Grapes are all cut, the 
Vines should be pruned, using painter’s 
knotting or some other kind of styptic 
to prevent bleeding when the sap rises. All 
loose hark should be removed and the rods 
washed with warm Gishurst compound. The 
dry surface soil from the borders should be 
removed, if possible, down near to the roots, 
and replaced with good compost, with which 
some suitable artificial manure has been 
blended. Of course, bone manure is always 
useful. 

Late Peach-house. —Finish pruning, wash¬ 
ing, and training, hut do not crowd any¬ 
thing, though every part of the trellis should 
be furnished with bearing wood, and to do 
this it is necessary to loosen the trees alto¬ 
gether from the trellis and open the branches 
out,, training the bearing shoots 0 inches 
apart. Afterwards the borders may be 
examined, moistened if dry. and top-dressed. 
Basic slag is useful now'. Something more 
stimulating may be given later. 

Ferns in the house.— If brown scale at¬ 
tacks any of tin* Ferns, this should he dealt 
with at once. Fir-tree oil in solution and a 
small bib of sponge will get rid of them if 
used so as to dislodge the insects, but in bad 
eases it is better to throw out the plants, as 
the scale increases rapidly and travels 
about, though it docs not appear to move. 
If only one plant is attacked, the scale soon 
spreads to other plants near, so it is neces¬ 
sary to deal with it promptly. 

Outdoor garden. —So long as the weather 
continues open, all kinds of open-air work 
may be done. Roses have been planted 
freely in many forms—on arc-lies, poles, in 
groups on the lawn, sometimes in mixture; 
but the most popular plan is to plant masses 
of one colour. Groups of one colour may 
take the place of some of the herbaceous 
plants round the margins of the shrubs in 
open situations. In the town garden, where 
only the hardiest Roses will thrive, plant 
China or Bengal Roses, of which there is now 
plenty to select from. To cover a low wall 
in a way that will always he bright and 
dressy, plant the common Pink China Roses 
alternately with Euonyinus radicaus varie- 
gatus. Let the Euonyinus cover the wall 
for n background, and the Roses fill in 
the front, without any training beyond a tie 
here and there. Pretty coverings for a 
house-front now are the Fire Thorn (Cratie- 
gns Pyracantha) and the Naked-flowered Jas¬ 
mine in large panels, to be kept from en¬ 
croaching upon each other by pruning after 
flowering. Those who want Roses to fur¬ 
nish pergolas should plant some of the 
Chinas to clothe the bottom. This is often a 
weak spot in furnishing pergolas. The ram¬ 
bling Roses and other free-growing plants 
commonly employed rush up and leave the 
bottom bare, and the China Roses fill the 
void, or a mixture of China Rose Dueher 
and Clematis Jaekinaiii is very effective. 
All weakly plants of the Clematis should be 
cut down to get a strong growth from the 
bottom, as this variety flowers on the young 
wood of the current season. 

Fruit garden. —If wall-trees have to be 
pruned and trained during wet weather, lay 
boards down to stand upon. These are 
easily moved from tree to tree as the work 
progresses. This prevents the ground from 
being trampled into a qungmire, and adds 
to the comfort of the worker. As soon ns 
the training is finished, spray or wash the 
trees. 'Lime, too, is useful. Scarcely any¬ 
one uses enough of it among fruit-trees. 
Those trees which are to be regrafted may 
be headed down now to within 6 inches of the 
place for the insertion of the grafts. Suit¬ 
able wood for scions should be collected and 
laid in on the north side of a wall or fence 
Prepare positions for Figs and hardy Grain- 
Vines on the south sides of Avails or buildings. 
Tender fruit-trees usually do better against 
buildings than open Avails. The walls of the 
buildings are warmer and drier than ex¬ 
posed garden walls. The latter arc fre¬ 
quently damp and cold, especially if the 


coping is out of order. The roots of Figs 
and Vines should lie kept out of the cold 
subsoil. Six inches of brickbats or stones, 
grouted in with lime and made firm, make a 
good and cheap foundation for Vines. Figs, 
or Peaches. With ti feet of good soil on 
such a foundation, the tree* will succeed. 
If any routs extend beyond the foundation, 
they can easily be lifted and shortened, and 
trees submitted to an annual pruning should 
have their roots seen to sometimes. 

Vegetable garden. —Start a few Peas in 
pots under glass for transplanting in March. 
This should be done even when Peas are 
sown outside during autumn and again in 
January or February. Those who have 
plenty of room under glass may have an 
early crop coming on m pots, or, if the 
houses are large, the Peas may be sown in 
rows across the border. Where a warm 
house can be given up to Tomatoes planted 
out in the borders, French Beans may be 
planted between the rows of Tomatoes. I 
have had good crops of Beans in this way, 
and the Beans come off Avhen the Tomatoes 
require the room. Hot-beds should be made 
now for Potatoes. Carrots. Asparagus. Sea- 
kale, and for raising seeds and striking cut¬ 
tings by-aiid-bye. Take advantage of frosty 
mornings to wheel on manure, and. if biioav 
comes, prepare Pea-sticks, stakes, etc., ami. 
in bad weather, there is always work for the 
outdoor staff under glass, cleaning paint, 
glass, etc., and lime-washing walls. I have 
often found handy men among garden 
labourers, capable of doing odd jons in 
painting, glazing, making av ire-baskets. Birch- 
brooms, etc. E. Hobday. 


THE COMING WEEK S WORK. 

Extracts from a Garden Diary. 

January 13th. —Tied down young shoots 
of Vines in pots. Shall stop two leaves be¬ 
yond the bunch in all cases. Some shoots 
have already been stopped. Warm liquid- 
manure is given when necessary. Used the 
camel’s-hair brush upon the blossoms of 
early Peach-trees when the pollen is ripe 
and dry. Moved boxes of Mint and pots of 
Tarragon to warm house. Sowed Onions in 
boxes for transplanting, Ailsa Craig and 
Magnum Bonum being the varieties we 
intend growing. Sprayed fruit-trees Avitli 
soap and petroleum. 

January fifth .—Grubbed some old Laurels 
in shrubbery, and prepared site for Hollies. 
Some old Lilacs have also been cleared out 
to make room for other good flowering 
shrubs, including a few of the new Lilacs 
and a clump of the Buck-e\e (Pavia macro 
slachya). which makes a charming group in 
the shrubbery in August. If snow comes, ail 
choice evergreens av i 11 be cleared of suoav. 
men going round Avith long poles. NeAvly- 
planted trees and shrubs have been pro¬ 
tected from rabbits Avith wire-netting. 

January 15th. —Pruned Peaches and Nec¬ 
tarines on south av jdls. The branches, both 
old and young, will be washed with a solution 
of Gishurst compound, using a brush for the 
old branches and a bit of soft sponge for 
the young shoots, drawing the sponge care¬ 
fully towards the extremities of the shoots, 
so as not to disturb any of the buds. In 
pruning, all cuts are close to wood bud in 
shortening. If nails and shreds are used, 
room is left for the brandies to swell. The 
same rule applies where the trees are trained 
to Avires. 

January 16th. —Started a few more early 
Potatoes for planting in frames. Sowed 
early Peas in pots and Early Long-pod Beans 
in boxes for transplanting. Beans trans¬ 
plant well, and the earliest crop is always 
started in this way. Sowed Begonia seeds 
in heat, shifted on Mignonette, and sowed 
more seeds for spring blooming. Moved 
stock pots of Harrison’s Musk to warm 
house. Moved Hydrangeas and Roses in 
pots to warm house. 

January 17th. — Looked round all her 
baceous borders, and renewed labels where 
necessary. All stakes have also been ex¬ 
amined, and, Avliere necessary, replaced. Seed 
order has been sent in, and the arrangement 
of the season’s cropping marked on plan. 
Stock has been taken of the plants required 
for plant ing-beds and li<Trit4rk, and cuttings 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


January 11, 1908 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


613 


will be taken of anything required to make 
u j stock. Old plants to furnish cuttings 
are being warmed up to induce growth. 

Januarij 18th .—Hotbeds are being made up 
with leaves and stable-manure for various 
purposes. Potted more Lily of the Valley 
crowns and some strong roots of Solomon’s 
Seal, and Dielytras have been moved into a 
moderate temperature. Rearranged conser¬ 
vatory, and moved plants coming into bloom 
from other houses. Wo have still some 
Chrysanthemums in good condition. The 
forcing-houses are full now of various things 
coming on. 

ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 

December 31st, 11X17. 

The last meeting was held on the last day of 
the year, and, as might have been antici¬ 
pated, neither the exhibits nor the visitors 
were at all numerous. Considering the in¬ 
tensely cold weather, many firms brought 
plants from long distances, notably, Chelten¬ 
ham. Bradford, Leeds, and other places. 
Messrs. Jas. Veitch and Sons. Ltd., Chelsea, 
staged ft fine group of flowering plants, also 
Apples and Pears, the collections in both in¬ 
stances securing the highest awards granted 
on the occasion. The subjects from this firm 
which came before the Floral Committeo con¬ 
sisted chiefly of the famed winter-flowering 
Begonias, such tvs Winter Cheer, Ensign, 
Julius, etc. Equally attractive, too, were 
the groups of Jaeobinias in crimson and gold, 
the Lion’s-tail (Leonattis Leonurus), Coleus 
thyrsoideus, and the fragrant Luculia gratis- 
siiua. In another direction the Messrs. 
Veitch staged one of the finest and most re¬ 
presentative collections of Apples we have 
seen. These fruits were grown in the open 
quarters at the firm’s branch establishment 
at Langley, and merit the highest praise. 
Among the large number we noted Cox’s 
Pomona, Wealthy, Scarlet Nonpareil (re¬ 
markably fine), King of the Pippins (also very 
fine), Sandringham, Bismarck (remarkable 
for both size and good colouring), French 
Crab, Allen’s Everlasting, Dumelow r 's Seed¬ 
ling or Wellington (a splendid sample), Rib- 
ston Pippin, Blenheim Orange, The Queen, 
Beauty of Kent, Mrs. Barron, Egremont 
Russet, Newton Wonder, Lane’s Princo Al¬ 
bert, Bramley’s Seedling, etc. Sir E. Loder, 
Bart., Horsham (gardener. Mr. W. A. Cook) 
sent a collection of Pears and Apples, chiefly 
from 50-vear-old orchard trees, noteworthy 
Pears being Verulam, Cat iliac. Marie 
Benoist. Easter Beurre, Olivier d<\s Serres, 
and Josephine de Malines. Messrs. II. B. 
May ami Sons, Edmonton, showed, in semi¬ 
circular groups, Dracaena Her Majesty, finely 
coloured, Euphorbia (Poinsettia) pulcher- 
rima, the ever-welcome E. jaequiniseflora, with 
Carnation Snowflake and Azaleas. Messrs. 
Hugh Low and Co., Enfield, sent a fine lot 
of Carnations, including Enchantress, Bri¬ 
tannia, Mrs. Burnett, Mrs. Lawson, White 
Perfection, Aristocrat, Winsor, Rose En¬ 
chantress, etc., all in capitaL condition. Cy¬ 
clamen Salmon King was particularly good, 
and many plants of Euphorbia jacquinifeflora 
were seen. Dracfena Doucetti—the varie¬ 
gated D. australis-—w-as represented by a 
couple of dozen of fine plants in good colour. 
Messrs. Wm. Cutbush and Sons, Highgate, 
displayed Orange trees in fruit, varieties of 
Pernettya mueronata, with pans of Iris 
alata, I. histrioides, Adonis amurensis, etc. 
The winter-flowering Carnations from the 
same firm made a goodly show. Robert 
Craig, Britannia, Marmion, or the winter¬ 
flowering Malmaison, and Rose Dore were 
excellent. Alpines in pots and pans, with 
pots of Lachenalias and succulents in variety, 
came from Messrs. J. Peed and Son, Strcat- 
ham, S.W. The Messrs. Cannell and Sons, 
Swanley, brought up a remarkable collection 
of the winter-flowering Pelargoniums they 
grow so well, and display so finely at theso 
winter exhibitions. Upon this occasion wo 
were much struck by the brilliancy of the 
crimson and scarlet varieties, which appear 
so welcome by reason of their colour effects 
at this gloomy season. The handsome 
bunches were quite a feature. From Leo- 
nardslee, Horsham, Sir Edmund Loder, Bart, 
(gardener, Mr. W. A. Cook), sent a very fine 
specimen of Sarracenia purpurea, with, we 

handsomely- 

$ l fp fine 


should say, about a hundred 
coloured, finely-grown/pitchers 


plant was lifted from the ground on the 30th 
ult., and, even w T hen it arrived at Vincent- 
square, a large number of the pitchers were 
ice-bound. Messrs. Geo. Paul and Son had 
cut sprays of Montanoa bipinnatifida and the 
perpetual Musk Rose Snowstorm. 

The chief exhibits of Orchids came from 
Messrs. Cypher, Cheltenham, who had many 
Cypripediums, also Miltonia Blueana su¬ 
perha, Zygopetalum Mockayi, Calanthe 
Veitchi, Ltelia autumnalis alba, Odontoglos- 
sum crispum, and others. Messrs. Moore, 
Ltd., Rawdon, Leeds, had a display of Cypri¬ 
pediums with Lycastes. Messrs. Stanley 
and Co., Southgate, brought Cat t ley a Triame, 
var. nivea, and the Messrs. Charlesworth, 
Bradford, had a remarkable bigeneric hybrid 
in Odontioda Craveniana (Cochlioda Noetz- 
liana x Odontoglossum cordatum), whose 
orange-red flowers were spangled with creamy 
yellow. This received an award of merit. 
Cypripedium Moonbeam (C. Tliomsoni x C. 
Sallieri), from Major Holford, received a 
first-class certificate. The large dorsal sepal 
is bordered and tipped white, and suffused 
with crimson and green ; the sepals and 
pouch are of a golden line, with a suffusion 
of pale crimson. Laelia anceps Schroderse, 
var. Theodora, came from the same source. 
The Messrs. Hugh Low and Co., Enfield, also 
contributed a group of Orchids, chiefly Cy¬ 
pripediums in many good kinds. 

Potato Favourite, said to be valuable alike 
for mid-season or late work, from Messrs. 
Dobbie and Co., Rothesay, received a first- 
class certificate. It is a rough-skinned tuber 
of shapely appearance. 

A full list of awards will be found in our 
advertising columns. 

BIRDS. 

THE OUTDOOR AVIARY. 

There are very many varieties of birds that 
may be quartered in an outdoor aviary, and 
such an aviary provides an interesting and 
ornamental addition to any garden of 
moderate or large size. In a email garden 
the difficulty generally is to provide a sunny, 
sheltered site, free from intrusion by stran¬ 
gers, otherwise a quite tiny garden may be 
improved by the erection of an aviary there¬ 
in. The site of the aviary should be chosen 
carefully. The ground should ho dry. and 
not subject to being flooded during heavy 
rains; then, there should be shelter from the 
cold winds, free access of sunlight, and a 
nice setting in the shape of suitable greenery. 
An outdoor aviary need not be a very expen¬ 
sive affair, but it should be neatly put to¬ 
gether, so as to form an ornament. A neat 
wooden framework, a span roof, and the 
sides filled in -with half-ineh-mesh wdre-net- 
ting, will moan an aviary that will accommo¬ 
date any of the smaller birds, whilst for 
larger birds inch-mesh netting may be used. 
Never use larger mesh netting than inch- 
inesh, because sparrows would then steal the 
food fed to the inmates of the aviary. Out¬ 
door aviaries, unless very large, so that the 
birds are living practically at liberty, should 
always l>e roofed over, a protection against 
both rain and sun. Very largo aviaries 
should be partially roofed over, and in the 
open portion shrubs or small trees may bo 
enclosed. The open portion should, of 
course, be wired over, and any vegetation 
therein should be well establielied before 
the birds are introduced. Failing this, 
shrubs in pot« or tubs may be provided, 
changing them now and then as may be 
necessary to keep the shrubs in health. With 
fruit-eating birds, Gooseberry bushes placed 
ir.sido the aviary when the fruit i« ripe will 
be much appreciated. 

Small aviaries may be provided with draw- 
out. w'ooden floors, after the fashion of an 
ordinary cage ; but, when of moderate size, 
should be floored with bricks, flags, cement, 
or asphalte. With the largest class of 
aviaries the natural earth will suffice, but. 
part, or the whole, of the surface, according 
to conditions, should be removed annually 
and replaced by fresh soil or sand, the latter 
being the better material of the two. When 
building the aviary, either by the sinking of 
wire below the surface of the ground or 
by some other equally certain method, it 


should be made impossible for rats and mice 
to obtain entry to the aviary. 

Aviaries that are of any size will need to 
be entered bv the attendant, and, because of 
this, should l>e 5 feet or over in height, or it 
w'ill be awkward to perform the necessary 
duties. The gate should be a double one, 
with short wired porch or passage, so that 
there may be no risk of the birds escaping. 
The open portion of tiio aviary should face 
towards the south, and at the north should 
be a shed or hoarded portion large enough 
to easily shelter, without crowding, the whole 
of the inmates. All aviaries should be pro¬ 
vided with plenty of perches of varying thick¬ 
ness, and when breeding is expected, the 
necessary nest-boxes, etc., must be provided. 
Then, there must be plenty of seed-boxes, 
hoppers, fountains, and water-troughs, and 
these should be «o fitted os to be easily at¬ 
tended to w'ithout having to enter the aviary. 
With birds that wash, a wired adjunct to the 
aviary, in which the bathing-pan can Ik? 
placed, and that can at will he cut off from 
the body of the aviary at any time, will be 
found handy, and will prevent dampness 
within the aviary proper. For birds that 
dust, adust-bath should be provided. 

When the aviary has been built, all cracks 
and crevices in the woodwork should be care¬ 
fully filled up with putty, or other reliable 
material, and then should come the painting 
of tho exterior. Paint may be had in a great 
variety of colour, hut not every colour may 
suit the surroundings. Green, however, is a 
safe colour, and may be confidently used in 
any ease. The interior of the woodwork 
should be given a couple of coats of good 
limewash. The whole of the interior fittings 
of the aviary should be readily removable, 
and should also bo in duplicate. Let both 
paint and limewash become thoroughly dry 
before stocking. When stocking, stock 
thinly, for a crowded aviary is nothing like 
so satisfactory as an uncrowded one. 

An aviary, when erected, should, ae soon 
as circumstances permit, be well surrounded 
by greenery or flowers, not stand up naked, 
as it might ho termed. In planting tall vege¬ 
tation of any kind, however, including 
creepers, take care not to shut out the sun 
ohino from the birds, for all birds love tho 
sunshine when shade is available at will. 

J. T. Bird. 

POULTRY. 

HINTS ON WORKING AN INCUBATOR. 
Notwithstanding the enormous strides that 
artificial incubation has made during the last, 
few years, there is still a deal of prejudice 
against incubators, ae many people are 
under the impression that they are extremely 
difficult to work, that they require a large 
amount of time to attend to, that a consider¬ 
ably smaller percentage of eggs hatches, that 
the chickens that do make a successful exit 
are delicate, involving much trouble to rear, 
or that the hens, when they commence to lay, 
are not nearly so prolific. All these objec¬ 
tions undoubtedly possess a certain amount 
of truth, but only is this the ease when an 
inferior machine is employed, or when the 
management is seriously at fault. Provided 
a reliable incubator is used, and it is care¬ 
fully looked after in a common-sense manner, 
all these objections are merely imaginary. 

It is often asked, why are indicators neces¬ 
sary, and why is not the old fashioned method 
of hatching by hens, which was good enough 
for our fathers and grandfathers, still ad¬ 
hered to? If I could procure all the broody 
hens I wanted, at the time I wanted them, I, 
for one, would never use another machine, 
but would rely entirely upon hens. Herein, 
however, lies the whole point, as it is just 
because broody hens cannot be obtained for 
love or money during the winter months that 
the artificial method must be resorted to. 
Winter hatching is now so necessary a braii .li 
of utility poultry-keeping that anyone who 
does not use an incubator is very seriously 
handicapped, and is unable to participate in 
the excellent prices procurable for Jiickeus 
during the early spring of the year. 

It is a very good plan, when using a new 
machine, as well as at the commencement of 
each hatching season, to run the incubator 
for a few days before filling the egg-drawer, 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



614 


GARDENING ILL USTIL4 TED. 


in order to make sure that, the regulating ap¬ 
paratus is in good working order. If the 
eggs are placed in immediately the right heat 
is reached, a great risk is run, as any extreme 
variations of temperature, particularly dur¬ 
ing the first few days of incubation, are likely 
to be fraught with grave consequences. In 
a hot-water type of machine the temperature 
should be maintained at 104 degrees for hens’ 
eggs and 103 degs. for ducks’ eggs; in the 
hot-air type one degree less gives better re¬ 
sults. A slight variation of temperature 
during the three weeks of incubation has no 
serious results, but the more even it remains, 
the larger is the percentage of chickens 
hatched, and the stronger and healthier'arc 
they likely to be. 

A matter upon which depends a good deal 
of the success achieved, and which, therefore, 
requires special attention, is the daily cool¬ 
ing of the eggs. Twice a day the drawer 
should bo opened, and the eggs turned and 
cooled. The length of time it remains open 
entirely depends upon the outside tempera¬ 
ture ; during cold weather five minutes are 
sufficient, whereas during the summer twenty 
or twenty-five minutes are none too long. The 
desire is to reduce the temperature of the 
eggs down to about 60 degs. Unless regular 
cooling takes place, the chickens within the 
shells do not develop so quickly, nor are they j 
so hardy or vigorous when hatched. "While 
the eggs are cooling, they should be turned, 
and it is a good plan to mark the eggs with 
an “X” on one side and an “O” on the I 
other, so that no eggs will bo missed or 
turned twice. When turning the eggs, the | 
hands should be quite clean, and especially j 
should they be free from oil. 

The incubator should stand upon a per¬ 
fectly steady basis, and must not be subjected 
to shocks and jars, as these have a very in¬ 
jurious effect upon the hatching results. 
Many of the newer machines are supplied 
with*legs, and, provided they are substantial, 
they answer well; but frequently they are 
too thin, and unable to support the machine 
quite steadily. When no legs are supplied, a 
stout table or an inverted box does well; the 
packing-case in which the incubator arrived 
makes an excellent stand. The floor of the 
room also requires to be steady; and thus, 
bricks or cement are particularly - suitable. 
If the eggs are shaken, especially during the 
first ten days, the germs run a grave risk of 
being killed ; if they live, the chickens when 
hatched arc extremely liable to bo deformed. 

The lamp should be filled, trimmed, and 
cleaned once a day, as, upon its steady burn¬ 
ing dejjends, in a large measure, the evenness 
of the temperature within the drawer. After 
relighting, the wick should not be turned up 
too high, as oil lamps invariably work higher. 
If the lamp does smoke, the flues should be 
immediately cleaned out. All the various 
parts of the incubator should be kept abso¬ 
lutely clean, and between each hatch the 
drawer, water-tray, and drying-box should 
ho scrubbed out with boiling water. If the 
machine is a tank one, it will have a water- 
tray, and this should never he allowed to 
run dry. It is advisable to renew the water 
at least three or four times during the three 
weeks or month of incubation. When the 
chickens are hatching, the ogg-drawer should 
not be opened more than can be avoided, but 
once every few hours it is necessary, in order 
to remove the empty egg-shells. If these are 
allowed to remain, they are likely to fix 
themselves upon full eggs, possibly prevent¬ 
ing the chicken within making a successful 
exit, or. at. all events, rendering its task 
considerably more difficult. E. T. B. 

LAW AND CUSTOM. 

Nursery garden and property adjoining 
brickfield- - 1 have a friend who owns a nursery 
Harden, which has been worked as such for over lob 
>eare Last year a muu bought the Held adjoining 
tins nursery, and is setting up a brickyard in this said 
Held. Has my friend any legal remedy for: (1) The 
depreciation in value of his property, caused by the 
netting up of this brickyard? (2) And for any damage 
caused by the noxious fumes of the brickyard to his 
crowing fruit-trees, plants, etc., in the nursery? If 
so. what is his legal remedy? With regard to the 
same brickyard, various gentlemen's dwelling-houses 
and property (of which mine is one) are situated near 
it. Have wc any legal remedy against the owner of 
the brickyard: (1) depreciationdn the value 

of our properties, catted by his setting lip ^iis brick¬ 
yard? (2) For any Ama^^dii't' <VJhl tout cuts of 


our gardens and dwelling-houses, caused by the 
! noxious fumes of this brickyard? If so, what is our 
legal remedy? The dwelling-houses were erected, in 
many cases, more than a hundred years ago. In point 
of Jaw, can a person start a new brickyard in the 
midst of private residences?—F actor. 

[The ease is one, apparently, of nuisance, 
ami the remedy lies in au action for ail in¬ 
junction and damages—an injunction, that 
is, to restrain the brickyard man from emit¬ 
ting noxious fumes from his premises, and 
damages for such injury as the plaintiff has 
already sustained. Precisely the same 
answer applies to your other questions re¬ 
garding damage done to private property ad¬ 
joining. Of course, it will have to be con¬ 
clusively proved that the work carried on at 
the brickyard does constitute a nuisance—a 
nuisance, in fact, which did not exist before 
the brickyard was started. As to the law 
generally on this subject, I may say that the 
principle upon which the law is administered 
is this : A man who goes and lives where a 
nuisance is in existence cannot claim to have 
that nuisance stopped—for instance, a man 
who goes and builds a house near a shipbuild¬ 
ing yard, where there is a great noise of ham¬ 
mering constantly going on, cannot claim to 
have that put an end to. Oil the other hand, 
no man is entitled to settle down in the 
midst of a number of residential houses and 
there start an offensive or noisy trade. Oil 
the whole, ill your case, I am inclined to 
advise you all to club together and subscribe 
the fees necessary to employ a solicitor to 
investigate the facts and to take counsel’s 
opinion thereon.- Barrister.] 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

Questions. —Queries and ansicers arc inserted in 
Gardening free of charge if correspondents follow these 
rules: All communications should tie dearly and concisely 
written on one side of the jHijwr only , and addressed to 
the Editor of Gardening, 17, Fur nival-street, Holhorn , 
Ijondon, E.C. Letters on business should be sent, to the 
Publisher. The name and address of the sender arc 
required in addition to any designation he may desire to 
be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, 
each should be on a separate piece of paper, and not. more 
than three queries should be sent at a time. Correspon¬ 
dents should bear in mind that, as Gardening has to be 
sent to press some time in ad ranee of date, queries cannot 
always be replied to in the issue immediately following 
the receipt of their communication. Wc do not reply to 
queries by post. 

Naming fruit. —Headers who desire our help in 
naming fruit should bear in mind that several specimens 
in different stages of colour and size of the same kind 
greatly assist in its determination. We ha ve received from 
several correspondents single specimens of fruits for 
naming , these, in many cases being unrijte and other¬ 
wise poor. The differences between varieties of fruits arc 
in many cases so trifling that it is necessary that three 
specimens of each kind should be sent. We can undertake 
to name only four varieties at a time, ami these only when 
the above directions are observed. 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

Stenanthium robustum (Manuring). — Thin, 
which comes from Carolina, throws up spikes of pure- 
white, feathery plumes, which last in good condition 
for some time. It docs best in heavy soil in a rather 
damp situation. 

Arum sanctum (Thomas Owen).—Vic are suppos¬ 
ing this is what you refer to as the Black Lily. It is 
also known as A. paltestinum. Its usual season of 
blooming is during the spring months, after which the 
growth is perfected, and it becomes quite deciduous. 
Potted early in the autumu, it soon begins to root. 
If treated as a pot-plant and kept in a cool green¬ 
house during the winter, it will, if the crowns are 
strong enough, flower freely. It may be grown out¬ 
doors in a bandy, well-drained border in a warm 
situation, for it cannot be considered hardy unless 
under specially favourable conditions. 

Pancratium illyricum in pots (Geo. A. Falk- 
ner).—Pancratium illyricum often fails to flower in a 
satisfactory manner. If repotting is necessary, the 
best time to do this is early in the year before growth 
recommences; but, at the same time, if the boil and 
roots are in good condition, this Pancratium will 
stand for years without repotting—indeed, the less 
the roots are disturbed, so much more surely will the 
plants flower. In this case a little weak manure- 
water occasionally will be of service. It succeeds best 
in a soil composed principally of loam and sand, 
lightened, if necessary, by a little leaf-mould. Bulba 
that have flowered may be stood out-or-doors in a 
sunny spot, and kept regularly supplied with water 
till they so to rest, when they may be wintered in 
the greenhouse or in the dwelling house, if you pre 
fer it. During the winter a little water should be 
given occasionally, just to prevent the roots becoming 
parched up, but no more. With the return of sprlug 
the water supply must, of course, be increased. 

Growing Lavender (.4. Douglas). — In growing 
Lavender the situation Is important—that which is 
elevated, with a southern and western exposure, is the 
best. Shelter from the north is also very Important. 
The subsoil must be dry during the winter, and the 
surface soil of a calcareous nature. Where a loamy 
soil overlies chalk, though tbi9 be at a distance of 
| 2 feet from the surface, all necessary conditions to 
success are pre-ent. A fairly luxuriant growth giyes 


January 11, 1908 


the best crop of spikes, aud from these a better 
yield of oil is obtained than from small, puny flowers, 
the result of poof, half-starved land. A too rich soil 
would induce a luxuriant growth, which will not 
stand severe frost. In preparing the land for the 
plants, it ought to be well worked, ploughing it 
8 inches deep, if possible, following with a subsoil 
plough in every furrow, afterwards crossing the top 
spit to break up the clods. When it is desired to in¬ 
crease the stock, pieces with three or four growths 
attached are the best. These, dipped off the plants 
by a sharp downward tug, contain a small portion of 
old wood attached to the base,commonly called a heel. 
From this part roots soon spring. If the ground is 
at all poor, a dressing of farm-yard manure should be 
dug in previous to planting. The flowers are usually 
collected in August, and if June and July have been 
bright and fine the result is satisfactory, whereas, if 
the weather has been dull and wet, only half the 
quantity of oil is obtained. The flowers are gener¬ 
ally cut with a 6ickle and afterwards tied into 
bunches. 

TREES AND SHRUBS. 

Destroying tree-stumps (F. J. G .).—The follow¬ 
ing plan is said to have proved very successful:—In 
the autumn bore a hole 1 Inch or 2 inches in diameter 
aud 18 inches deep, put in 1 oz. of saltpetre, till with 
water, and plug up close. The atuiup must be in a 
fresh, sappy state when the saltpetre is put in, or it 
will not permeate the fibres thoroughly, which Is 
essential to the success of the experiment. In the 
following spring put into the same hole I a gill of 
kerosene oil. and then lfglit. The stump will smoulder 
away without blazing, even down to every part of the 
root*, leaving nothing but ashes. Another way Is to 
blow them up with gunpowder: but the best way of 
all is to grub them out, this being really the quickest 
in the end. 

VEGETABLES. 

First early or second early Potatoes (G. G.) — 

A good dwarf-topped, first early, round Potato is Mill- 
cross Early. Harbinger, also, is dwarf and early. 
Sharpe's Express is a capital early Kidney, so. too. 
are Duke of York and Early Puritan. You should not 
intercrop between Potato rows until the plants havo 
made good growth, otherwise the tuber crop will be 
poor. The two first-named varieties may be planted 
in rows 20 inches apart, and the others should be in 
lows fully 24 inches apart. 

Carrots, grubs in (Cestrian).— You seem to have 
done a good deal to check maggots or grubs in their 
attacks on your soring-sown Carrots, yet not with 
entire success. There is an insecticide called 
vaporlte specially prepared to destroy wireworms. 
grubs, and maggots. A email tin can be obtained of 
any seedsman for Dd., and witli it you will get in¬ 
structions as to its use. If you will put a peck of 
good, fresh soot into a coarse bag tied loose, and soak 
it in a tub containing 8 gallons of water for forty- 
eight hours, moving the bag occasionally, it will 
make strong soot-water, and if that be noured in 
alongside the rows of young Carrots, it kills insects. 
A heavy dressing of soot may be forked into the sol! 
a w'eek prior to sowing the seed. The splitting of 
Carrot* usually follows heavy rainfalls after a dry 
time, thus causing the roots to suddenly and unduly 
.swell, the splitting resulting. It can hardly be 
avoided. 

Improving allotment ground (A. 11. M.).— 
Evidently, your allotment garden needs a good dress¬ 
ing of manure, especially of cow and pig-manure, os it 
is light and porous. Can you get animal-manure? If 
so. get in a good quantity at oiicp. If it be short and 
half-decayed, put it down in large heaps on the 

ground, spreading it os you dig the ground, so that 

it is buried whilst moist. No doubt your soil needs 
deepening also. To do That, open a trench 2 feet 
wide and 1 foot deep at one end of the vacant 

ground, then well break up with a fork the bottom 

soil to a depth of 10 inches, working Into that some 
of the manure. On to that throw the ton 12 inches 
of the next trench, then serve all the plot in the some 
way. If you cannot get any animal-manure, then 
purchase bone-flour and kainit in equal quantities, and 
one fourth of the quantity of sulphate of ammonia, 
all mixed, then dig that in at the rate of 8 lb. per 
rod. Dust, heavily at night when it Is damp with 
fresh-slacked lime or soot where slug* prevail. 


SHORT REPLIES. 

Doublet!. —It is very difficult to say, but we think it 
is very risky, and much damage may follow should 

the fumes of the coke get into the house.- A. 

Douglas.—Vo have had no reply to your query re 
" Growing flowers for scent manufacture." You 
should visit such a place as Hit-chin, in Herts, or 
Mitcham, in Surrey. In both places Lavender is 

largely grown.- B .—The best stone for your roek- 

gar len is Path-stone You should inquire of some 
builder in your neighbourhood, who may be able to 
supply you’or tell vou how to get It. ——John F.. 
Field .—Had vou sent us specimens of the Insect* you 
find on the‘leaves, w-e could then have given you 
Instructions as to clearing them off. 


NAMES OP PLANTS AND FRUITS. 

Names of plants Cestrian.— 1, Escallonia mac- 
rantha: 2. Cotoneaster miorophylla; 3. The common 
Laurubtinus (Viburnum Tinus); 4, Kerria japonic* 
A PL __ 


Catalogues received. - McHattie and to. 

Chester .—Garden Seeds for l'J08. -W. Cutbush and 

Son, Highgate, N .—Catalogue of Seeds.- -W. J. God¬ 

frey. Exmouth. Devon. — Catalogue of Few and Select 

Chrysanthemums. -W. Wells and Co.. Ltd., Mere- 

tham, Surrev .—Special List of Novelties in Chrys¬ 
anthemums.— -R. n. Bath, Ltd., Floral Farms, Wis¬ 
bech .—Select Garden Seeds. -Robert Sydenham. 

Tenbv-street, Birmingham .—List of Vegetable, and 

Flower Seed-. -Edmondson Bros.. Dublin.-List of 

Fhorrf and Vegetable Scut*, etc. 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


No. 1,506—Vol. 

XXIX. 

Founded by IT. Robinson, 

Author of “The English Flower Garden.” 

JANUARY 18, 1908 






INDEX. 






Apples as cordons v. 


Chama?rops Fortune! in 


Cranberries 

616 

Hollies, raising, 

from 

Plants, hardy, trans- 


Trees and shrubs 

C16 

bushes. 

f»16 

a Hampshire garden 

623 

Cucumbers 

626 

seed 

.. 628 

planting and dividing 

623 

Trees and Bhrutm of 



6*28 

Chrysanthemum All- 


Cucumbers, winter 

625 

Hyacinths failing 

.. 627 

Plants in the house 

626 

1907, some new. I 

616 

Arbutus Unudo.. 

628 

mann a Yellow 

618 

Euphorbia aplendens . 

627 

India-rubber-plants in a 

Plants for border 

627 

Vegetable garden 

626 

Asphodels, Giant (Ere- 


Chrysanthemum eul- 


Ferns . 

624 

room 

.. 627 

Plants for oblong beds 

628 

Vegetables 

62>» 

umrus), the 

622 

lure, the decorative 


Ferns, repotting.. 

021 

Indoor plants 

.. 620 

Polystachya odorata 

624 

Vegetables, a supply 


Bees. 

627 

aspect of 

61S 

Ferns, wat ering .. 

624 

Mallow (L&valera) 

.. 627 

Poultry. 

627 

of. 

625 

Briers, seedling, for 


Chrysanthemum cut- 


Fire Bush, the (Kmhoth 


Manures and 

their 

Richardia :ethiopica dis- 


Verbena, the Sweet- 


budding. 

620 

tings, striking .. 

618 

rium eoccineum) 

617 

application 

.. 625 

eased . 

620 

scented (Aloysia citri- 


Browallia (Streptoso- 


Chrysanthemum Kath- 


Freesias, new .. 

620 

Nymphiea lucida 

.. 623 

Roses . 

bill 

odora) . 

620 

len) Jiunesoiii .. 

627 

leen Thompson 

61S 

Fruit . 

615 

Orchids 

.. 624 

Roses in the open-air at 


Vinery, early 

62T 

Calceolaria? is there a 


Chrysanthemum King 


Fruit garden 

626 

Outdoor garden .. 

.. 626 

Christmas 

619 

Vines . 

628 

climbing 

C27 

of Plumes, plumed .. 

618 

Garden diary, extracts 

Outdoor plants.. 

.. 621 

Roses, seasonable notes 

619 

Vines, cutting down .. 

628 

Carnation Mrs. 8. J. 


Chrysanthemums 

618 

from a. 

626 

Peaches, early 

.. 626 

Roses under glass 

619 

Waterside grouping .. 

621 

Brooks. 

620 

Chrysanthemum shows. 


Gardening, municipal. 

622 

Peaches, outdoor 

.. 615 

Senna, Scorpion (Coro- 


Week s work, tho com- 


Carrots cracking.. 

628 

the decline of .. 

618 

< larden work 

626 

Pear Duchesne de 

Bor- 

nilla Emerus), the .. 

623 

ing . 

626 

Caterpillars in tin box.. 

i;v4 

Chrysanthemums, new 

618 

Greenhouse, the warm 


deaux .. 

.. 616 

Stove . 

626 

White Beam, the No- 


Celeries at Wisley 

625 

Cocoa-nut-fibre, uses of 

627 

in winter 

620 

Pears, cordon 

.. 615 

Strawberry forcing 

626 

paul (Pyrus vegtita, 


Christmas Roses 

621 

Conservatory 

626 

Honeysuckles 

621 

Plants and flowers 

.. 618 

Tomatoes for exhibition 

628 

syn. P. nepalensis) .. 

Cl 7 


FRUIT. 

CORDON PEARS. 

I quite agree with “A. D.” (December U8th, 
page 570) that the illustration of cordon 
Pears at Powis Castle on page 455 has an odd 
look; but it is probably clue to the way in 
which the photograph was taken, as an ex¬ 
pert in gardening would hardly plant either 
shrubs or strong-growing perennials in close 
proximity to fruit-trees. I have pointed out 
on many occasions in Gardening the differ¬ 
ence in habit and vigour in different varie¬ 
ties; but it may be taken as a general rule 
that the best sorts are healthy and fairly 
vigorous in growth. It is not generally 
realised, but it is. nevertheless, a fact, tlint 
from a wall or trellis of cordon Pears, planted 
with discrimination and well cared for, good, 
ripe fruit is available, with but few intervals, 
for nearly six months of the year for the 
majority of private establishments. Good 
planting is the first consideration, and those 
growers are fortunate who have naturally a 
deep, fairly holding loam, which it is only I 
necessary to trench and plant, with no ac¬ 
cessories required. On a soil like I have in 
West Surrey—a very sandy loam, with sand 
within 18 inches of the surface—a more 
elaborate preparation is necessary. Mark 
out a space 3 feet from wall or trellis, put 
the top spit on one side, and cart the bottom 
spit away. Mix with the top spit an equal 
proportion of any heavy soil that may be 
procurable (good, stiff road-sidings will do), 
together with a little cow-manure. Fill the 
trench well up with this to allow for a little 
sinking. A rough-and-ready planting soil, 
some may say. Perhaps so; blit where good 
loam is not available locally, one has to do 
the best he can, and I can prove that very 
good Pears can be grown in the above com¬ 
post. 

“A. D.” suggests a list of kinds, which 
may or may not do well on a particular 
stock. I should say this is purely a question 
of soil and locality. So far as the Quince 
stock was concerned, absolute failures with 
me were Beurrc d’Anjou, B. Bachelier, and 
Olivier des Serres. The great—perhaps the 
greatest—mistake in planting cordon Pears 
is to include too many varieties of the samo 
season. I said above, fruit from the; same 
may be secured for nearly six months, but 
too many early Pears are not wanted, for the 
simple reason that during late August and 
September plenty of Melons, Peaches, Nec¬ 
tarines, Figs, etc., is available. My best— 
in fact., my only early—Pears are Williams’, 
Beurre d’Am an 1 is and Marguerite Marillat. 
Far too many mid-season varieties are 
planted. I should pick three : Louise Bonne 
of Jersey, Thompson’s, and Doyenne <lu 
Cum ice, wilh, perhaps, Beurre Alexander 
Lucas. The last, is not lip to the 
standard of the others from a flavour 
point of view, but a grand cordon 
variety, a great amP^consistent. lcrop- 
per, hapdsome, and I vit* 


Late Pears— i.r., those varieties that, start¬ 
ing in the middle of December, last, until 
February—are most valuable, and they should 
be included in any planting. My three best 
are Nouvelle Fulvie, Glou Morccau, and 
Josephine-des Malines. The first-named is 
not very well known, and certainly not ‘of 
attractive appearance; but it is a fine Pear, 
rich, sugary, of fine texture, and a good 
keeper. Glou Morceau is not a success on 
some soils, but. here it is very good—in fact, 
decidedly the best late Pear, growth clean 
and healthy, a consistent cropper, fruit over 
medium size, and of excellent quality. 

Claremont. E. Burrell. 


OUTDOOR PEACHES. 

There are hut few gardens that do not con¬ 
tain one or more trees of either a Peach or 
a Nectarine, and these would be added to by 
most lovers of fruit did the trees get the 
necessary attention required during early 
spring and throughout the summer. With 
the exception of well-managed gardens, it is 
seldom one finds trees of these luscious fruits 
well cared for. They are left to take care of 
themselves, as it were, with the result that 
growth gets crippled in its infancy by the 
attack of either aphis or Peach-blister—two 
of the worst enemies these stone-fruits have 
to contend with during early spring. Later 
in the season red-spider soon gains a footing 
if the necessary washing of the foliage is 
neglected. One and nil of these enemies can, 
with timely and judicious treatment, be suc¬ 
cessfully combated if only the advice con¬ 
stantly given in these pages be followed. 
Naturally, a suitable position, as well as soil, 
is of first importance, and warm walls, such 
as a south, south-east, or even a due east 
affords, must be given the trees. As regards 
soil, even the most uncongenial can generally 
lie made suitable for them. Low, damp situa¬ 
tions must be avoided, and thorough drain¬ 
age must lie ensured. A heavy soil can be 
made light, by the addition of road-scrapings, 
lime-rubble, wood-ashes, soot, pounded brick, 
charcoal, or even stones, while a light 
sandy loam can generally be made more re¬ 
tentive by mixing soil of a clayey nature, 
which can usually be found within a few 
miles. The cleanings of gutters or water¬ 
courses, when dry, also tend to make a Suit¬ 
able rooting medium for these trees. These 
lighter soils are much improved, too, by a 
good mulch of eowvard-manure after the shn 
has warmed it—say, towards mid-June. A 
mistake too frequently made when dealing 
with light soils is iu not applying sufficient 
water to the roots, should dry weather set in 
for a few weeks, from early spring right lip 
to lute autumn. Bud-dropping is not an un¬ 
known occurrence even with outside Poaches, 
and although ill-ripened \%ood is usually 
given us the cause, L am fully convinced that 
a dry border often accounts for it. It. must 
I be remembered that wall-trees, unless the 
particular site is facing direct from where the 
rain cornea, do not get nearly so much mois¬ 


ture as those in the open quarters. Doubtless 
the month of November is the I rest time to re¬ 
plant, but I have had good results from trees 
shifted as late as the end of February. This, 
however, was compulsory, so I am not advo¬ 
cating the late removal of such early-flower¬ 
ing trees as the Peach and Nectarine. 

Pruning. This may be carried out from 
the fail of the leaf up to mid-February, avoid¬ 
ing the work in very frosty weather. What 
amount of pruning a tree requires will de¬ 
pend on its treatment in spring and late sum¬ 
mer—viz., disbudding, and the removal of 
those shoots that bore fruit the past season. 
Iu any case, the latter should be cut away, 
unless a shoot here and there is necessary 
for the extension of the tree, and hv remov¬ 
ing these after the fruit has been gathered, 
the current season’s shoots, which will be the 
fruit-bearers for the coming summer, have a 
much better chance of ripening. With old- 
established trees it becomes necessary at 
times to dispense with an exhausted branch, 
so that younger wood from the base may 
have space to develop, but the more gradually 
it is done the better for the tree. 

Cleaning. —This is important, as two 
pests infest the wood and foliage, even under 
the best treatment, during spring and sum¬ 
mer, and no severe weather seems to affect 
either, and these arc red-spider and black 
aphis. It is necessary to take the trees from 
the wall each spring, so that washing the 
trees will be an easy matter. A four-gallon 
pail of wqter, to which have been added lb. 
of sulphur, half a pint of Quassia extract, 
and £ lb. of soft soap, all thoroughly mixed 
together in a gallon of warm water previ¬ 
ously, ill wash several trees. This should 
be frequently stirred while using, and a piece 
of soft sponge, together with a paint-brush, 
will be found the necessary tools for the 
work. The sponge should be used for the 
fruiting wood, drawing this towards the point 
of the shoot, so that no buds are rubbed off, 
the brush coming in for the barren branches 
and stem of the tree. 

Training. —Wired walls are the most con¬ 
venient, as well as economical, and a keen 
eye is imperative in adjusting the branches, 
so that an even balance is maintained on 
either side, a properly trained tree resem¬ 
bling an open fan. Allow space for develop¬ 
ment in each tie, and in arranging the young 
wood bear in mind that a second shoot has 
to be laid in later for next year’s fruiting, so 
that a space of from 3 inches to 4 inches 
should separate each last year’s shoot. En¬ 
deavour to cover bare branches with fruiting 
shoots if possible, and lay them in their full 
length unless it. is found that any have ill- 
ripened points, in which case cut back to a 
pointed bud, or a triple bud, where usually 
a wood-bud is situated. Young trees, unless 
jHTiodic.ally root pruned or iranspluntcd, arc 
sure to make grojvs shoots, iu which case it is 
best to employ a ihbre bbflqiftl mode of train 
iug. keeping the centre more oucik 

The borders should Im amninlly “over- 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 






















616 


GAIIDEjVIJVG ILLUSTRATED. 


Jan r ary IS, 100S 


hauled after clearing away rubbish, etc., 
when training is finished, and the soil in a 
suitable state to work. If labour and loam 
are at command, it pays to prick up with a 
garden fork about 3 inches of the surface and 
wheel away, replacing with loam incorporated 
with lime rubble, soot, and wood-ashes. In 
any case, a thin layer of either should be 
scattered over the border (which should be 
4 feet in width), pointing this in with the 
garden fork some 3 inches deep. 

Reliable varieties to plant are Peaches: 
Hale’s Early, Amsden June, Bellegarde 
Dymond, Violette Iiativc, Nectarine Peach, 
Dr. Hogg, Gladstone, Princess of Wales, Sea 
Eagle, Barrington, and Devonian; Nec¬ 
tarines: Elruge, Humboldt, Lord Napier, 
Hardwick, Early Rivers, and Improved 
Downton. James Mayne. 

Bicton dardens, Devonshire. 


The raiser was a M. Secher of La Goliar- 
diere, Montgean, near Angers, and it was 
awarded a first-class certificate by the Royal 
Horticultural Society in 1885. It w r as raised 
in 1850, and first fruited in 1859. 


PEAR DUCHESSE DE BORDEAUX. 
This Pear, like Passe Crassane and other 
late ripening varieties, requires a warm 
situation and high cultivation to develop its 
good qualities, and unless such conditions 
and treatment can be accorded it, the results 
are disappointing. A position against a wall 
having a south or south-western aspect, with 
strict attention to such cultural matters as 
mulching the soil over the roots in the sura- 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Cranberries (Jeanne). — With very little care 
■ several of the hardy kinds of fruit-bearing bushes, 
both native and others, might be turned to profitable 
j account under ordinary garden cultivation. We recol- 
lect that in a garden in the north of England the 
Cranberry used to be grown very successfully, while it 
has also been well grown in the South of England, in 
the counties of Sussex and Hampshire. The mode of 
I cultivation in the garden first referred to was very 
simple. In a certain wild part of the pleasure ground, 
i wet, and doping south, four or five beds were formed 
horizontally across the slope. The beds might be 
about 0 feet in width, made up of hog earth. These 
j beds were divided from one another by ditches 3 feet 
or 4 feet across. The drainage of the hill-side was 
concentrated to this point, and the water discharged 
first into the higher or uppermost ditch. All the 
ditches were kept full of water to within C inches 
or 12 inches of the surface-level of the peat beds. 
At this height the water was allowed to overflow into 
the next ditch below—say, at the west end. then at 
the east end, and so on from one ditch to the other, 
maintaining thus a slight current throughout from 
the highest to the lowest. In these peat beds this 
pretty evergreen trailing plant grew luxuriantly, 
thickly Covering the bed with a mass of growth, and 
in the season abundance of fruit. 

Apples as cordons v. bushes.— Will you kindly 
, tell me whether as much or more fruit can be got 
from Apple-trees a.s single cordons as from bush 



Pear Duchesse de Bordeaux. 


incr months, affording water whenever neces 
<*nry, with the addition of such stimulants us 
liquid or artificial manures, and in thinning 
the crop down to reasonable numbers and 
allowing the fruits to hang as late as possible 
before gathering them, are the chief points 
to observe in order to grow Duchesse de 
Bordeaux Pear to perfection. The grower 
will find himself well repaid for this extra 
trouble, for though the individual fruits are 
inclined to be small, as will be seen by our 
illustration, they are freely produced, and 
the tree is a regular bearer. It succeeds bet¬ 
ter on the Pear than on the Quince-stock. 
On the latter it produces an abundance of 
flower-buds, but makes but little growth, and 
takes a long time to form a moderately-sized 
tree. The fruits come into use in January, 
and we have had them in good condition at 
the end of the succeeding month. It is a 
Pear which, if subjected to a temperature of 
55 degs. to 60 degs., and kept dark, will 
ripen and develop its flavour to a high de¬ 
gree. In this way the fruit can be ripened in 
relays, allowing a week or ten days to elapse 
between the time of introducing them to 
warmth and when required for table. The 
fruit is often similarly shaped to some of the 
Bergamot Pears, and the skin is covered al¬ 
most completely wBh brown-russet. The 
flesh is vellowisl/white^ j 
f ul lv I ripened /is n^ll 


j u • (ws* lut)l, when 
vl . lJ-lfljiYOured. 


trees or espaliers, occupying the same amount of 
ground? I want them in three useful and keeping 
sorts, and if there are any sorts which you can recom¬ 
mend as particularly suitable for cordons, I shall be 
obliged.-S. Piercy. 

[Tou would 1x3 unable to obtain the same 
bulk of fruit from cordon-trained trees occu¬ 
pying the same area of ground that would be 
required for a full-grown bush-tree. How¬ 
ever, the fruit yielded by cordons under 
proper management is invariably of the 
highest quality, both in relation to size and 
flavour, and as a result of its experiencing the 
full benefit of 6unshine, is also generally 
highly coloured. At the same time, it is only 
right to add that if you are thinking of 
marketing the produce, you had better plant 
bush-trees, as we favour the employment of 
cordons for obtaining fruit of the best qunlity 
for home consumption or private use only. 
As you do not stipulate either for cooking or 
dessert varieties, we append the names of 
three of each for you to select from. Three 
dessert Apples, which are highly flavoured 
and possess good keeping qualities, succeed¬ 
ing as cordons, are : Ribston Pippin, Cox’s 
Orange, Allen’s Everlasting. Should your 
soil not be warm enough for Cox’s Orange, 
substitute for it Allington Pippin, which has 
a hardier constitution and bears richly- 
flavoured fruit. Three good cooking varieties 
for the same purpose are : Bismarck, Sand-| 
ringhnm, and Lane’s Prince Albert. As bush- 


trees you would find the last named, with 
Newton Wonder and Northern Greening, very 
reliable heavy croppers, und excellent 
keepers. Three dessert varieties in the same 
form of tree would be the same as for cordons, 
giving Allington Pippin the preference, if you 
have a cold soil to deal with.] 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 

SOME NEW TREES AND SHRUBS 

OF 1907.—I. 

Throughout the year a considerable num¬ 
ber of these—flowering shrubs especially, are 
submitted to the floral committee of the 
Roval Horticultural Society. Of them the 
following obtained recognition in some form 
or other, the highest award of a first-class 
certificate being given to three—viz., Rhodo¬ 
dendron intricatum. Viburnum rhytidophyl- 
lum, and Berberis Wilsome. 

Actinidia chinensis.— A free growing, 
woody climber from central China, with 
large, heart-shaped leaves, dark green on the 
upper surface, and tomentose beneath. The 
bright red hairs with which the young leaves 
and shoots are clothed form a very striking 
feature. An award of merit was given this 
at the Temple Show, where several plants 
were shown in Messrs. Veitch’s group. For 
the clothing of pillars and pergolas this is 
likely to be as much in demand as some of 
the very large-leaved Vines which are now so 
popular. A characteristic woodcut of this 
Actinidia was given in Gardening Illus¬ 
trated, December 22nd. 1906. 

Ampelopsis Lowi. —Though the genus 
Ampelopsis is now merged into that of Vitiw, 
the change is by no means generally recog¬ 
nised. The variety to which an award of 
merit was given on October 1st as Ampelop- 
sis Lowi, is a seedling form of the decidedly 
variable Ampelopsis Veitchi, or Vitis incon- 
stans, as it is now called. The new-comer 
(A. Lowi) is altogether of a more graceful 
and lighter character than the older kind, 
the leaflets also being more deeply cut. In 
summer ihe leaven are of a rich metallic 
green, and in autumn, as might be seen by 
those shown, they change to a bright rod. 

Berberis Wilsonje. —A low-growing Bar 
berry, with small, narrow leaves and golden- 
yellow flowers, borne during the spring 
months. These flowers are in turn succeeded 
by berries, which change to a bright red 
when ripe, and thus form a deliglitfui 
autumn feature. The slender branches, 
which are disposed in a very graceful man¬ 
ner, are plentifully furnished with spines. 
It is a deciduous species, and the collector, 
E. H. Wilson, when travelling for Messrs. 
Veitch, referred to the beauty of its autumnal 
tints; but this feature was not apparent 
when it was shown on October 15th, and a 
first-class certificate awarded it. 

Cytisus Firefly. —A seedling form of the 
well-known Cytisus Andreanus, raised by 
Mr. T. Smith, of Daisy Hill Nursery, Newry. 
The flowers are particularly bright iu colour, 
and at the Temple Show it was given an 
award of merit. Other distinct forms have 
been raised and distributed from the same 
source. 

Cotoneaster applanata. —'lhe bright red 
berries of this Cotoneaster proved very at 
tractive when it was shown, and received an 
award of merit on October 1st. As it is so 
little known, the following description from 
“Hortus Veitchi ” may prove of interest: 

“ Cotoneaster applanata (Dutliie).— An important 
addition to a genus of useful garden shrubs, raised 
from seed collected in Central China in 1900. The 
plants have a tendency to grow at right angles to the 
erect main stem in one plane only, and the plant i* 
naturally adapted for growing on trellises or against 
a wall, and in such situations the neat., dark-green 
foliage, and in autumn the brilliant-scarlet berries arc 
particularly effective. The leaves are small, heart- 
shaped, each 1 inch long by half an inch broad, dark 
green above, and covered beneath with a white 
tomentum.” 

Hedera dentata varieo.ata. —The typi 
eal Hedera dentata is a w r ell-known Ivy, and 
in this form the leaves are freely variegated 
with creamy-white when young, changing to 
pure white as they mature. Award of merit 

July 9th. Original from 

Hydrangea arboresckns grandiflora. 

- III.' typical Hydrangea arborcsccns. intro¬ 
duced trom North America as long ago at 


January 18, 1908 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


617 


1730, lias, in common with several other spe¬ 
cies, the large, sterile flowers, limited to a 
scattered few, principally towards the outside 
of the cluster. The variety, which, I be¬ 
lieve, has originated under cultivation in the 
United States, lias a massive flower-head 
of sterile blossoms, in the same way as the 
common Hydrangea. In this newer form the 
blossoms are of a creamy-white colour. By 
some an amount of popularity equal to that 
of Hydrangea paniculata grancliflora has been 
anticipated for it, but whether this will be 
so, time alone can prove. It received an 
award of merit on May 14th, and, in addition, 
it was well shown at the Temple Exhibition. | 

JlTMPERl'H CHJNEN8I8 NANA AUREA.— This, 
which was given an award of merit on No- 1 
vember 2t>th, is the only Conifer to obtain 
recognition during the year 1907. It well 
shows the decline in popularity of this family, ! 
or, rather, I should say, the curiosities 
thereof, for so many kinds were at one time 
put into commerce that, though pretty when i 
in the propagator’s hands, they soon lost their 
beauty when planted out-of-doors, and some | 
of them became little better than scarecrows. 


early sixties. Thirty years or so later, his 
son, the recently deceased Mr. J. H. Voitch, 
refers to it in his “Traveller’s Notes,’’ ao 
forming a very notable feature in inure than 
one of the Japanese nurseries. In this 
variety the flowers are not only more mas¬ 
sive than those of the ordinary M. Soulan- 
geana, but they are also much richer in 
colour. Award of merit March 19th. 

_ X. 

THE FIRE BUSH (EMBOTHRIUM 
COCCINEUM). 

This Chilian tree is botanieallv a near rela¬ 
tive of the Proteas (Sugar Bushes) of South 
Africa, and the Banksias, Drvandras, and 
Grevillcas of Australia. AIL of these belong 
to the natural order Proteacie, but far and 
away the showiest is the Embothrium. It is 
not thoroughly hardy in England, and to 
see it at its best in the British Isles, a visit 
to the extreme south-west or to Ireland will 
be necessary. Like other Chilian plants, it 
succeeds best in a fairly humid atmosphere, 
such as that experienced in the districts just 



The Fire Bush Embothrium cocdneum). From a photograph by Miss S. M. Wallace, 
Ardnamore, Co. Donegal. 


This golden form of the dwarf variety of the I 
Chinese Juniper should prove a pleasing 
feature on the rockwork or in some similar ' 
position. 

Lonicera Mackii. —When the late Dr. | 
Regel was director of the Botanic Garden at 
St. Petersburg, many new plants from the 
interior of Asia were introduced through | 
that source. This is one, it having been dis- 
tributed about a quarter of a century ago. 
It. is one of the shrubby members of the 
Honeysuckle family, whose creamy-white I 
flowers are borne in great profusion from , 
the latter part of May onward. Though a 
pretty flowering shrub, it is not much known. 
Award of merit June 11th. 

Magnolia Soulanoeana nigra. —The 
typical M. Soulangeana is an accidental hy- 
brid between M. conspicua (the Yulan) and | 
M. obovata, which, by the way, is often 
known as M. purpurea. The variety nigra, 
which was given an award of merit on March 
19th, is of Japanese origin, and was one of 
the many good things sent home by the late 
Mr. Jo 
that at 


Gould Veitch when travellini 


the time little-k; 


n ^wrf cqu 


untry 



named. When in good condition, it forms 
a freely-branched specimen, reaching a 
height of 30 feet to 40 feet, or even more, 
clothed with long, simple leaves, somewhat 
suggesting those of a Willow. The flowers, a 
small cluster of which is herewith depicted, 
are of a vivid vermilion tint, and borne in 
such numbers that when at their best they 
light up the whole specimen. From this cir¬ 
cumstance, the Embothrium is sometimes 
termed the Fire Bush, a very appropriate 
title, as, in a mass, the blossoms glow' like 
flame. Its usual period of blooming is in 
early summer, though some flowers can be 
obtained in the month of May. For some 
years fine flowering sprays have been ex¬ 
hibited at the Temple Show, and these large 
masses of glowing vermilion. Honeysuckle¬ 
like blossoms arc always much admired. 
Given a fairly good loamy soil, of moderate 
consistency and moisture, it will grow 
rapidly, and soon form an effective specimen. 
It does not bloom in a satisfactory manner 
when in a small state, hence it is not adapted 
for growing under glass, even in such a lofty 
structure as the temperate house at Kew. 


Even when flowers develop in this way, they 
never seem so vividly coloured as those 
borne under the influence of bright sunshine 
and the humidity to be found near the sea. 
With regard to the colouring, all tho speci¬ 
mens are certainly not of equal merit, as 
some are decidedly paler than others. A 
singular mistake occurs in the “Dictionary 
of Gardening” with regard to this Emboth¬ 
rium, for its height is given as 3 feet. This 
error has, in all probability, risen from a 
cipher having been accidentally dropped. 

Propagation is not altogether an easy 
matter, as seedlings are very apt to go oft 
during their infantile stage, and cuttings do 
not, root readily. Owing to this, layering 
is often resorted to. I, however, at one time 
met with great success in striking cuttings of 
this Embothrium. Having in pots a couple 
of fair-sized plants, somewhat stunted in 
growth, as is incidental to this treatment, 
I, in the spring, removed them into a warmer 
structure than that in which they had been 
wintered. The result was that they quickly 
pushed into growth, and when the young 
shoots were in a half-ripened condition^ they 
were taken as cuttings, inserted into pots of 
very sandy soil, and placed in a close propa 
gating case, in a structure slightly warmer 
than that in which they had grown. They 
were, in fact, treated exactly the same as 
cuttings of Javanese Rhododendrons. This 
practice of putting the stock plants into ad¬ 
ditional heat to produce young shoots for 
cuttings is well known to propagators, and is 
technically termed drawing out. It is fol 
lowed in nurseries in the case of many sub¬ 
jects, and it certainly proved successful for 
the increase of the Embothrium. Regarding 
the early history of Embothrium coccineum, 
it is very appropriate, considering its great 
beauty in so many Cornish gardens, that its 
introduction should be due to a native of this 
county. This was William Lobb, who, tra¬ 
velling for Mr. James Veitch, nurseryman, 
then of Exeter, sent home this Embothrium 
as well as many other popular favourites. He 
left England for the second time in the spring 
of 1845, and, after collecting in Brazil, he 
went on to Southern Chili, from whence he 
was instrumental in successfully introducing 
Lapageria rosea, Escallonia macrantha, Phi- 
lesia buxifolia, Desfontainea spinosa, Ber- 
beris Darwinii, Liboeedrus tetragona, Fitz- 
rova patagonica, Saxe-Gothoea conspicua, 
and Podocarpus nubigena, as well as this 
Embothrium, w T hich last named flow r ered for 
the first time in this country at Exeter in 
1853. X. 


NOTES AND HEP LIES. 

The Nepaul White Beam (l’yrus vextita. syn. 
I*, nepalensis).—There is a beautiful tree (Pyrus 
venusta) growing here. I have never seen any ac¬ 
count of it. I enclose some of the leaves, which 
coloured nicely the week before Christmas. I shall 
be glad to learn the year of its introduction, from 
what country, and any other information respecting 
it.— David Williams, Failand House, Bristol. 

[This is a native of Upper Nepal, at eleva¬ 
tions of from 9,000 feet to 12.000 feet, and 
was first introduced in 1820. The leaves are 
very largo, acutely crenated or coarsely ser¬ 
rated towards the points on rather long foot¬ 
stalks. When they first appear, which is very 
late in the season, they are clothed with a 
white, thick coating of wool, particularly 
underneath, but as soon as the warmer 
weather comes they throw r off the fleecy coat 
on the upper surface and finally become 
smooth and quite green. In the autumn, be¬ 
fore they fall, they assume a fine yellow 
colour. The branches are tomentose when 
young, but quite smooth when old. The 
flowers, w r hich are freely produced, are white, 
and borne in terminal, branched, woolly 
corymbs. The fruit is round, glossy, about 
the size of a marble, and greenish-brown 
when it is fully ripe in October. This Pyrus 
deserves the attention of planters, not only 
on account of the rich colour of its decaying 
foliage in the autumn, but also from the fact 
that it grows very quickly, and soon forms a 
fine specimen. In catalogues it is also found 
under the names of P. crenata and P. lanata, 
in addition to the names given, above. In the 
Kew List P. vestita is the recognised name. 
The name you give W. jirooabl'y, due to an 
error irt labelling.] 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 






GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


January 18, 190S , 


618 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

STRIKING CHRYSANTHEMUM 
CUTTINGS. 

Diverse means are practised in the propa¬ 
gation of these, some succeeding in one way 
while others adopt a quite different plan. 
Then, again, the date of putting in the cut¬ 
tings is a debated point. While some assert 
that each cutting should have a tiny pot, 
others believe that better results are derived 
from the employment of larger pots in which 
to insert, say, half-a-dozen cuttings, while 
some again contend that shallow boxes, three- 
parts tilled with suitable soil, are best. I 
believe in shallow boxes for the decorative 
section of Chrysanthemums, because 1 find 
the greater uniformity of the soil conduces 
to early rooting. The amateur with only one 
greenhouse, perhaps, may not have a propa- 
gating-frame, but if the greenhouse is given 
rather less ventilation, and a fine spray is 
given the cuttings from a syringe when signs 
of severe flagging threaten, it is very satis¬ 
factory to notice how readily the cuttings 
adapt themselves to the conditions. Natur¬ 
ally, they will root more quickly if a close, 
moist, and warm atmosphere is given ; but, 
as I have already said, these conditions can¬ 
not always be provided, and the beat; has to 
Iki made of the prevailing convenience. 
Boxes should not be more than 2 inches deep, 
as I find cuttings root much more readily, 
because the soil does not become sour, as is 
the case when more space is given. Choice 
and scarce sorts which need the utmost care 
may be placed in small pots, and these stood 
in a shallow box and covered with a sheet of 
glass, to keep them air-tight. To avoid damp¬ 
ing from the excess of moisture, remove the 
glass covering each morning, so that accu¬ 
mulated vapour may bo dispersed. Half the 
pleasures derived from the growth of these 
flowers may be lost unless precautions are 
taken to secure the names of each variety 
legibly written on a wooden label, first given 
the merest coat of white paint. Numbers 
may lie made to serve the same purpose, if a 
corresponding memorandum is provided for 
the purpose, and kept for reference. It is far 
more interesting, however, to lie able to at 
once ascertain the names direct from the pot, 
which is neither a difficult nor an expensive 
provision to make. W. S. 


“THE DECLINE OF CHRYSANTHEMUM 
SHOWS.” 

To the. Editor of Gardening Illustrated. 

Sir, —Under the above heading, “X.,” in 
the issue of December 21st. page 562, refers to 
a matter which he evidently knows but very 
little about, because it would lead some to 
believe that Chrysanthemum shows are de¬ 
l-lining; quite the reverse. There may be a 
lull in the interest taken in certain societies; 
but to say there is a decline, when societies 
are springing up in every direction, is wrong. 
Does “X.” think that iiis article will deter 
anyone from growing what he calls mop-like 
flowers? Not a bit of it. There is something 
more than ordinary skill required to produce 
such splendid flowers as we see at the shows ; 
and “X.” can never have realised the 
pleasure which amateurs and cottagers take 
in producing such flowers, and putting them 
against their neighbours’ in competition. 
Even if it only be a third prize they win, it 
is cherished as if it were gold ; and they start 
again to do better next show. I would like 
“X.” to visit some of the shows on the morn¬ 
ing or the exhibition where the principal 
competitors are amateurs and cottagers. 
He need not go far out of London. But even 
greater is the interest taken in large manu¬ 
facturing towns, where hundreds of mechanics 
have their little greenhouses, and the pride 
they take in the different things they grow. 

1 will explain to “X.” why so many take 
up tho cult of the Chrysanthemum. First, 
it is one of those plants which are so accom¬ 
modating—i.c., it will grow out-of-doors all 
the summer wl 
etc., are occupy 

Digitize a by 1 


ilie Cucuml>ers 


Co; Mt 


Tomatoes, 
,of glass. 


Then just as the summer crop is over the 
Chrysanthemum makes a better show than 

iivthing else which can bo grown. Then, in 
spite of what some say that the mop-head is 
short-lived, it is quite the reverse, for fYom 
the time the florets appeal* it is about a 
month ere the flower is fully developed; then 
it will last about a month afterwards. 

But, to return to the cause of the success 
or failure (if you like) of certain shows, I 
think the principal cause rests with the 
officers. 

M erst ham. W. Wells. 

- Some of the reasons advanced a few 

weeks ago by a correspondent as to the decline 
in Chrysanthemum shows are, I think, on the 
whole, satisfactory. For a year or two now 
tho gate-money at some exhibitions lias de¬ 
creased. Is it owing to the public becoming 
tired of seeing tho “mop-like heads” dis¬ 
played? 1 fancy that is one reason; but, 
as pointed out, fashion changes, and tho 
pendulum is surely swinging towards blooms 
of more moderate dimensions, that can bo 
used for home decoration, for it is a well 
known fact that some of tho exhibition 
blooms arc of little service when grown from 
terminal buds. Then, again, just look at. the 
long lists of new sorts introduced each year. 
They are simply bewildering, and, apart from 
catalogue puffs, are little better than many 
others that have preceded them. The trade, 
however, lives on novelties to a large extent, 
and so we get the new varieties sent out 
each year at fancy prices. Anyone who has 
shown will bear me out that those fancy- 
priced sorts of, say, ten or fifteen years ago 
are for the most part little heard of nowa¬ 
days, and even exhibitors are beginning to 
tire of this state of things.— Woodbastwick. 

THE DECORATIVE ASPECT OF CHRYS¬ 
ANTHEMUM CULTURE. 

Several speakers at the recent annual dinner 
of the National Chrysanthemum Society re¬ 
ferred to the importance of considering the 
decorative aspect of the Chrysanthemum at 
the future shows. Reference was also made 
to the value for decoration of the large and 
handsome exhibition blooms. The public are 
getting more practical each Reason, and un¬ 
less they can sec there is some real value in 
the large flowers for indoor decoration they 
rightly regard them less favourably than they 
night otherwise do. There will always be a 
certain following of florists who will continue 
to look upon the large blooms with favour, 
and who are quick to detect points of merit 
in both new and old sorts, but they are be¬ 
coming less numerous. Some persons want 
to concentrate all the energies of the society 
and its funds in a few “big” classes to 
satisfy the few men who grow specially for 
the National Show. These growers repre¬ 
sent but a mere tithe of those who are in¬ 
terested in the cultivation of the Chrysan¬ 
themum, and seldom look upon the medium¬ 
sized blooms and classes in which they are 
represented with favour. The success of the 
last. N.C.S. November show was largely due 
to its comprehensive character. The time 
has gone by when the large Japanese and in¬ 
curved blooms should monopolise both space 
at the shows and the funds of the society. 
What the Chrysanthemum-loving public 
want is a better representation of all types 
of the flower, and they want to see at the 
shows blooms of a kind they can easily grow 
themselves. It is all very well for certain 
old-time growers to refer to classes outside 
the very big ones as “superfluous ” and “un¬ 
necessary.” There is room for all classes of 
growers. 

Exception is now l>eing taken to the exhibi¬ 
tion of big blooms in vases, chiefly on the 
ground that the trade does not get sufficient 
inquiry for varieties, as the number of sorts 
usually stipulated to be shown in vases is 
considerably less than that required when 
the blooms are shown on the boards, as for¬ 
merly. We arc pleased that the N.C.S. has 
of late years taken a more sensible view of 
things, and has been endeavouring to make 
its exhibitions far more interesting and more 
generally attractive than they used to be. 

T. V. W. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Plumed Chrysanthemum King of Plumes. 

-This well-known plumed Chrysanthemum 
still maintains its high position as a first- 
rate late-flowering variety. The florets are 
somewhat broad and deeply notched, giving 
the flower, when fully expanded, a plume¬ 
like appearance. The colour is a tone of 
bright golden-yellow. At the recent show of 
market varieties at Covent Garden three 
large vases of this beautiful variety were 
shown in excellent condition. The plant is 
not difficult to grow, and in height is between 
3 fee.t and 4 feet.—E. G. 

Chrysanthemum Allman's Yellow.— Those 
requiring flowers of a light yellow hue for 
cutting late in tho year should grow the 
Chrysanthemum named above. It is a very 
free bloomer, and the habit of growth is also 
good—so much ko that it is very valuable for 
associating with other varieties in the forma¬ 
tion of groups for the decoration of conserva¬ 
tories, front halls, etc., the flowers then hav¬ 
ing a very telling effect. When cut, the 
flowers last a long time in good condition, 
and are invaluable for room decoration, par¬ 
ticularly if cut with a good length of stem. 
The variety gained the certificate of the 
N.C.S. and an award of merit from the 
R.H.S. in 1903.-W. K. 

New Chrysanthemums.— r riie number of 
new, or supposed new, varieties, especially 
in the Japanese section, increases so quickly 
nowadays that if the cultivator intends to 
remain in the foremost rank, it becomes 
necessary to revise annually the list for 
future cultivation. Exhibitors especially 
know well the advantage of growing the new 
varieties, which have merits above those of 
some older sorts, as such kinds, if really 
acquisitions, arc more valuable on the exhibi¬ 
tion-table than the older varieties. At the 
present time, too, there is such a craving for 
novelties that new varieties are bought in by 
some people in considerable numbers, irre¬ 
spective of any information as to their quali¬ 
ties except that contained in catalogues. It 
often happens that, after a whole year’s 
labour, the supposed improved variety is con¬ 
siderably inferior to many old sorts. Thosn 
persons who have no opportunity of judging 
for themselves as to the good qualities or 
otherwise of varieties sent out as new each 
season should not grow them until a know¬ 
ledge of their qualities has been gained. It 
is far better to grow an extra plant or two of 
known varieties upon which dependence can 
be placed. 

Chrysanthemum Kathleen Thompson.— 

This is well known as a late October-flower¬ 
ing Chrysanthemum. To designate it as 
early-flowering, as is done at page 590 by 
“ A. W..” is rather misleading, as the general 
definition of a true early-flowering Chrysan¬ 
themum is a variety that flowers in the open 
border, say, previous to the latter half of 
October, and even this is late enough for so- 
called early-flowering kinds. We have to 
remember that there are many keen growers 
of the early-flowering Chrysanthemums, 
whose gardens are situated in the North of 
England and in Scotland. These growers, 
in consequence of their climate, say that only 
the earliest kinds arc of any use to them. 
Varieties that wc in the south of England 
may flower most satisfactorily, have, when 
grown in the North, often proved useless 
there. A type of plant that we may take as 
a good representative of the true early-flower¬ 
ing Chrysanthemum is Mme. Marie Masse 
and its sports, and other varieties that come 
into flower about the same time. In the 
earlier days we used to refer to the October- 
flowering varieties as “semi-earl}*,’ and this 
is not far wrong. Kathleen Thompson and 
its parent, Caprice du Brintemps. 1 should 
regard as semi-early Chrysanthemums, and 
for outdoor displays in a normal season I 
should class them as doubtful or uncertain. 
Except for tho period of flowering mentioned 
bv “A. W..” I quite agree with all that he 
says.—W. V. 1'. 

*« The English Flower Garden and Home 
Grounds."—-Veto Edition, revised, %nth iU*cnptmn» 
of all the best plant*, frees, and shrubs their culture, 
and arrangement , illustrated on wood Cloth, medium, 

N1VERSfPTOf ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



January 18, 190S 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


619 


ROSES. 

ROSES IN THE OPEN-AIR AT 
CHRISTMAS. 

One effect of the extremely mild autumn of 
19R7 (unique even in favoured St. Leonards 
on-Sea) is illustrated in the vase of Roses we 
show to-day. These Roses were cut on De¬ 
cember 27th in an exposed position in the 
grounds of a St. Leonards nurseryman. The 
varieties are the old and well-known Duke 
of Edinburgh and the newer, but equally ap¬ 
preciated, Frau Karl Druschki, the trailing 
foliage being that of Dorothy Perkins. 

One hears from all parts of all sorts of 
out-of-season plants in bloom, but really 
good Roses in flower in the open at Christ¬ 
mas are certainly somewhat rare. In the im¬ 
mediate neighbourhood of the Rose-bed could 
be seen a belated show of Nicotiana Sanderae, 


more heat may be applied ; in the meantime, 
a temperature of about 55 degs. at night 
would be ample. 

SEASONABLE NOTES. 
Altiioikjh one of the quietest months in the 
Rose grower’s calendar, there is much that 
may be done by those who desire to be well 
in time with the future work as it presents 
itself. But before we consider that part, it 
may be well to caution all readers to be 
prepared for a sharp winter, should it ap¬ 
pear. Many of our modern Roses that are 
popular to-day have never been really put to 
the test as to hardiness, so that it behoves 
us to protect all Tea and Hybrid Tea Roses, 
also the Monthly and dwarf Polyantha sec¬ 
tions. This protection should take the form 
of moulding up the dwarf plants with either 
fine soil, burnt earth, or ashes. On no ac- 
I count use wet, heavy manure for the pur¬ 



ltofes ^athervd from the open nir, on December 27th, at St. Leonards, 
from a photograph by Mr. Angus, N. Croyle. 


Lobelia eardinalis. Anemone japonica, yel¬ 
low' Marguerites, Primroses, Pansies, and 
Kniphofia Uvaria grandiflora—a veritable 
“running riot” of the seasons. 

F. J. Smith. 

St . Loon a rcls-on-Sea. 


Roses under glass.— The first batch of 
forced Roses will now be pruned. They are 
syringed every bright morning, hut water 
must be very sparingly applied. Watch 
very carefully for green-fly, and fumigate at 
once. The hot-water pipes should also be 
painted over with flowers of sulphur, mixed 
with skimmed milk. This is very useful in 
keeping off mildew. The glass of the green¬ 
houses needs to he washed frequently, especi¬ 
ally following heavy fogs. Keep the tem¬ 
perature nice and buoyant. Do not force the 
plants unduly during the dull days. An 
even, steady temperature is more conducive 
to good growth. La'tFl*, when budl appear, 

Digitized by ^ -| QQQ|0 


pose. If a small heap is put around each 
bush to a depth, say, of 4 inches or 5 inches, 
the eyes or buds beneath such protective 
material will be preserved, and, no matter if 
the branches are killed down to the soil or 
ashes which we place about the plants, the 
wood beneath will usually be found to be 
sound. Some nice dry Oat or other straw 
shaken among the branches makes a lodg¬ 
ment for snow. and. if removed at mild inter¬ 
vals, acts very beneficially. Standard and 
half-standard Roses of the tender sections, 
comprising the tribes named above, should 
have some dry hay or straw put among their 
branches; or, better still, have the heads 
thatched. For the very tender sorts, such 
as the Catherine Mermet group, Niphetos, 
Comtesse de Nadaillac, etc., it would pay to 
lift the trees and liecl them in under a north 
wall, and if the weather turns out very bad, 
some boards could be placed slantingly 
against the wall, thus forming a perfect 


shelter. It seems strange to advise using a 
north wall, but all who have studied this 
matter are agreed that tender subjects suffer 
less under north walls, for the reason that 
the sun does not shine upon the frozen parts. 
If a plant is frozen and it is allowed to 
thaw gradually, little harm follows. 

Every opportunity should lie taken to ridge 
up land, and also dig and trench it. Ridging 
is almost as good as a coat of manure, it' 
done early, so that frost and wind may tho¬ 
roughly take hold of it. In ridging, open a 
hole the width of two spades, then throw the 
one spit into the middle, and the second one 
on top of that. There is no advantage in 
having the ridges extra high. Manure could 
be added at the time or afterwards, if pre¬ 
ferred. Ground thus ridged is in a splendid 
state in March for planting young Roses and 
dwarf stocks for budding. Last April I 
planted some hundreds of dwarf Roses on 
freshly-trenched land, and they haw* made a 
marvellous growth, and last summer ami 
autumn were much admired. My advice 
would be to prepare the ground anti procure 
the necessary plants, but do not plant until 
March or April unless the weather is very 
favourable. When planting is done in March 
or April, cut down the plants at the time to 
within about 2 inches of where they are 
budded, and be very careful to plant firmly. 
Soil that has Iwcome manure-sick should now 
receive a good dressing of lime. Slaked lime 
is the best form in which to apply it, and a 
good dressing would be about 6 ounces to the 
square yard. Where it is known that the 
Roses have been highly manured each year, 
just give lime and withhold the spring dress¬ 
ing of manure, and there will l>e a marked 
improvement in the health of the plants. 
Later on, in May and June, the Roses may 
be fed with liquid-manure. Burnt garden 
refuse is a splendid addition to nnv Rose 
soil, and if it contains a liberal quantity of 
charcoal so much the better. A heavy clay 
soil may be rendered very profitable by burn¬ 
ing a portion of the clay and adding this to 
the staple later on when digging and trench¬ 
ing are being done. Clay may also be spread 
on the surface of soils deficient, of this. Lay 
it so that frost may thoroughly break it down. 
In a few weeks it will be quite pulverised, and 
may then be more evenly spread on the 
surface. 

Roses as shrubs.— There is quite a num¬ 
ber of beautiful species and hybrids that 
should l>e more often found planted as 
flowering shrubs, well isolated as everything 
should be. They harmonise beautifully with 
the Syringas, Weigelas, Spiraeas, For- 
sythias, Ribes, Ifvdrnngoas etc. To prepnre 
places for such Roses should be our object 
during the dull days, and additional positions 
might be set apart in the garden for some 
of the newer introductions of shrub Roses, 
such as Rosa sinica Anemone, Gottfreid 
Keller, Conrad F. Meyer, Sarah Bernhardt. 
Lina Schmidt, Michel. Irish Elegance, etc. 

At the moment of writing we are having a 
keen, cutting wind and frost, hut if the 
weather becomes milder dormant buds may 
be lifted and potted up, should a supply of 
pot-Roses be required. If put into a cool 
greenhouse and gradually brought on they 
make excellent plants for forcing another sea¬ 
son. The tops should not bo cut off at pre¬ 
sent, but as soon as buds are on the move 
then the top should come off close to the 
inserted bud. Seedling Briers should now 
be lifted and potted lip, should a supply of 
the early summer Roses may lie budded upon 
these Briers, and they will provide us with 
splendid plants for forcing. This is a much 
more economical plan than grafting. 

Hedges of Roses, where they appear to 
need assistance, should have a trench opened 
on each side—not too near, so as to damage 
the roots. Then the trench may be filled up 
with good loam and manure in the propor¬ 
tion of two of the former to one of the latter. 
This should lie repeated every two or three 
years. Arches and pillars should be strength¬ 
ened if wood has been employed. The recent 
gales have severely tried the wooden pillars 
and arches. I like planting Rases on tripods 
where possible. They give a greater security, 
lies ides making far liibre beautiful objects in 

ONFS^SITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 







G-20 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Jaxuart 18, 1908 


In bad weather the exhibition boxes may 
lx; looked over, and, if necessary, repainted. 
Tubes should Ih; cleaned, sticks prepared, 
labels written, and shades made. All these 
little details attended to now greatly facili¬ 
tate the work later on. Rosa. 


ROTES AND ItEPLIES. 

Seedling Briers for budding. — I have some 
Brier seedlings, which I intend budding next summer 
for dwarfs. Would you kindly tell me if I should cut 
them right down in the spring, so as to put the bud 
into the new wood? I do not understand how the 
bud can be put quite close on the root, unless it is 
put in the old wood.— A. F. White. 

fVou must not cut down the Briers, for I lie 
growths now upon thoin will aid 1 he develop¬ 
ment of the plants. The buds are inserter! 
really in the root stock just beneath where 
the branches start from. Sometimes this 
root-stock is as thick as one’s thumb, blit we 
prefer it to be about 2 inches in circumfer¬ 
ence, although many Roses arc budded with 
a less girth than this.] 


INDOOR PLANTS. 

THE SWEET-SCENTED VERBENA 
(ALOYSIA CITRIODORA). 

Asa pot plant this is worthy of more recog¬ 
nition than it reecives, having had to make 
room, ns in the case of outside plants, for 
those that are more showy. Under pot cul¬ 
ture. if not well cared for, there will be a 
liability to red-spider, which, of all insect 
pests, is its greatest enemy. If treated, how¬ 
ever, in a generous manner, as one would 
the Fuchsia in order to grow it well, no 
fault can be found with it. In many respects 
it is a most accommodating plant, for, from 
the time of housing during October until 
growth commences again in the spring, it 
may be kept in quite unfavourable and out- 
of-the-wav places so long as the frost is ex¬ 
cluded. Wherever Fuchsias are kept during 
the winter, the Lemon plant may be con¬ 
sidered as practically safe. Although it is 
not a good subject for rooms, by reason of 
its dropping its foliage somewhat easily, it 
may be cultivated in windows where it will 
receive a good amount of light. In the 
course of a little time it becomes acclima¬ 
tised to such a position as this ; whereas it 
could not possibly do so without a fair pro¬ 
portion of light. For mixing with groups of 
pot plants in conservatories or for standing 
in greenhouses, it is well suited. In a cut 
state it so soon droops, and is, consequently, 
in a measure, disappointing. A vigorous 
plant is by no means to be despised for the 
sake of the flowers alone, for, though the blos¬ 
soms are minute, their profusion in long, light, 
and graceful spikes makes a most pleasing 
effect. For special purposes these spikes are 
excellent for mixing with other cut flowers, 
being an equivalent for the lighter Grasses, 
and lighter even than Spiraea japonica. Either 
in pots or in tubs, as large plants, various 
forms can be adopted ; but nothing in this 
way seems to me to be so suitable as stan¬ 
dards from 4 feet to 6 feet, or even 7 feet in 
height, with well-formed heads, these being 
trained to suit the taste. They could be 
globular, spherical, or pyramidal, and, when 
of sufficient size, could take the shape of an 
umbrella, serving the purposes of a sun¬ 
shade. G. 


NEW FREEST AS. 

During the year 1907 two hew Freesias were 
given awards of merit by the Royal Horti¬ 
cultural Society—viz., Freesia Chapmani. 
on March 5th, and Freesia Tubergeni 
Amethyst, on April 10th. 

F. Chapmani was raised by Mr. Herbert 
Chapman, of Rye, in Sussex, and was shown 
in January, 1906; but, perhaps, owing to the 
plants being somewhat drawn in order to get 
them into flower thus early, they were 
scarcely seen at their best. In 1907, however, 
it was much admired, and few, if any, ques¬ 
tioned the award it then received. At the 
time it was exhibited F. Chapmani was under¬ 
stood to be a secondary hybrid —that is to 
say. one of its parents (T believe, the seed- 
bearer) was obtained by the inter-crossing of 
F. aurea and F. rcfracta alba. This, in its 

Digitized by (jCT 'glC 


turn, was pollinated with F. rcfracta alba, 
the result being F. Chapmani. This is a very 
irettv form with yellow blossoms, which are 
css sweetly scented than those of F. re- 
fracta alba. This is as one might expect, for 
the flowers of V. aurea arc almost, if not 
quite, devoid of fragrance. 

Freesia Tubergeni Amethyst differs 
from the tvpjcal F. Tubergeni in the flowers 
being larger and rather paler. It was, I be¬ 
lieve, obtained from F. Tul)ergeni, fertilised 
with the pollen of F. rcfracta alba. As F. 
Tubergeni itself is but little known, it may 
be pointed out that, this owes its origiu to 
F. Armstrongs first introduced from Cape 
Colony seven or eight, years ago. It at once 
attracted attention by reason of its very dis¬ 
tinct colouring, the flowers being of a lilac- 
pink tint, which deepens towards the edges, 
while there is the usual patch of yellow in 
the interior. In growth it is taller, and the 
foliage more slender than in F. refracta alba. 
Like F. aurea, the flowers are scentless. 
From this species (F. Armstrongi) was ob¬ 
tained F. Tubergeni, the other parent being 
F. refracta alba. As might lx* expected, a 
certain amount of the scent of this last was 
transmitted to the progeny. 

As the raising of new Freesias has been 
taken up by several cultivators, we shall, in 
all probability, have many new forms before 
long. It is questionable, however, if any of 
them will attain the same amount of popu¬ 
larity as F. refracta alba, whose blossoms are 
of such a beautiful clear white, while their 
fragrance is- admired by everyone. 


THE WARM GREENHOUSE IN WINTER. 
The Zonal Pelargoniums are indispensable 
all through the dull months, and they are 
just now’ giving us some fine trusses of flower. 
These arc all spring-struck plants, grown on 
in the summer months in the open air and 
transferred to a warm greenhouse in Sep¬ 
tember, where, with a minimum temperature 
of 50 degs., they come quickly into flower, 
and continue in bloom for some three or four 
months. Sparmannia africana and Eupa- 
torium riparium are flowering with the Pelar¬ 
goniums, forming a pleasing contrast to the 
bright colours of the latter, as well as fur¬ 
nishing useful material for vases, wreaths, 
etc. A few dozen plants of Libonia penrlio- 
siensis are flowering freely on a shelf ; this 
variety is considerably better than floribunda, 
both in habit, leaf, and flower, and, from its 
pendent habit, and bright-coloured flowers, 
is a useful plant, for the edges of large vases, 
jardinieres, etc. There is no brighter nor 
more pleasing plant at this season than the 
Bouvardia, and the warm greenhouse would 
hardly be complete without a batch of this 
favourite flower. A few’ dozen Cyclamens 
are just coming into bloom, and will be wel¬ 
comed for more than one purpose. A few 
plants of Epiphylluin raised at intervals 
break the line of the Cyclamens, and form 
a very pleasing contrast to the white varieties 
of the latter flower. We wonder the Epi- 
phyllum does not find a place in every gar¬ 
den, as it is of easy culture, and there are 
few’ oven among the more costly flowers that 
are brighter during the dull months than this 
old fashioned succulent. Another old favour¬ 
ite that is easily grown, and that makes a 
nice vase plant, with a long blooming season, 
is Cypripedium insigne, and a batch in 
8]-inch pots is now flowering freely. There 
are few things that give less trouble than 
this old Lady’s Slipper, and although many 
of the new varieties are, doubtless, far more 
beautiful, a well flowered plant of C. in.signe 
with» say, a dozen large, well-developed 
blooms in un 81-inch pot is not to be despised. 
The winter-flowering Begonias nre also very 
bright. There is an idea still prevalent 
amongst amateurs that many of the above- 
named plants will flower freely through 
autumn and winter in any ordinary green¬ 
house, and that it is only necessary to keep 
out frost to get plenty of bloom. It is as well, 
therefore, to reiterate the statement that a 
minimum temperature of 50 degs. is abso- 
luely necessary to keep up a continuous sup¬ 
ply of flowers during winter in the warm 
greenhouse. 


ROTES AND REPLIES. 
Richardfa aethiopica diseased.— T am 

pleased to sec “Devonian,” at page 578, ask¬ 
ing questions about this disease. For years 
1 have observed plants in the state named by 
“Devonian” in many private gardens. He 
asks if w’e give too much stimulant. I think 
so, and herein lies the cause of much of the 
supposed disease. Speaking broadly, most 
growers are anxious to obtain large plants 
and blooms, and, to get these when grown 
in pots, enormous quantities of the strongest, 
stimulants are given during their growing 
period. From my early days I was taught 
the Richardia is strong-rooting, and needs 
food. I am convinced a large amount of evil 
is done lo the constitution of these and many 
other plants by overdoses of artificial manure. 
These plants are often huddled together out 
of sight in most unfavourable positions when 
the blooming is over. With such treatment, 
is it to be wondered at that disease attacks 
them? “Devonian” adds that, by planting 
out his stock this season, improvement has 
begun. If he will continue this treatment, 
destroying all plants that show signs of the 
disease, and avoiding strong stimulants, he 
will undoubtedly bring his stock back to 
health again. With reference to the roasting 
of the roots, my experience is that the best 
results are obtained by resting them in a 
natural way, giving them less water as they 
"show signs of going to rest, placing the pots 
in the sun when at rest if early growth is 
wanted. In these days, when we are trying 
to obtain everything unnaturally large, we 
arc increasing our difficulties with diseases, 
etc. Most of the stock that is obtained from 
these highly-fed things is full of disease. At 
the close of the year, when looking at a fine 
lot of lifted plants of Chrysanthemums, the 
grower told me that, since he had planted 
out his stock, he had had no rust.— Dorset. 

-A word in reply to your correspondent 

“Devonian” respecting Richardia lethiopica. 
There is, without doubt, a disease which 
seeins pretty general amongst, this class of 
plants; hut I have at present as healthy a 
lot of plants as one would wish to see—grand 
foliage, robust in every way, promising a fine 
show of bloom later. My treatment is as fol¬ 
lows : As soon as the plants have finished 
flowering I have them stood quite close to¬ 
gether outside (not in full sun), watering 
occasionally, so that the plants do not unduly 
suffer. I allow them to dry off gradually, and 
as soon as they commence to grow again — 
say. end of July—I shake out the plants care¬ 
fully, so as not to injure the roots unneces¬ 
sarily. and repot into clean, well-crocked 
32 and 48 pots in a compost consisting of 
good leaf-mould, river sand, and fibrous 

loam, with a sprinkling of soot and no 
manure of any description. The plants are 
then stood on a bed of ashes, as a safeguard 
against worms, and very carefully watered. 
By the end of September the plants are 
housed in a cool greenhouse and brought on 
in batches. In the greenhouse they are fed 
occasionally with weak cow-manure water. 
As the plants are very susceptible to green¬ 
fly. fumigation is required now and again. 

P. E. Cornish. 

Carnation Mrs. S. J. Brook6.— The above 
is. probably, the most prolific of all the pure 
white Carnations that are justly termed “per¬ 
petual flowering.” This phrase is employed 
advisedly, inasmuch as not a few of the 
American so-called “winter flowering ” kinds 
are not |x*rpotual in the true sense of tin- 
word. Home of these, Lady Bountiful nnd 
White Perfection, are instances of what. 1 

mean. The above-named, a British-raised 

kind, has every claim to n true perpetual 
growth, and where such is the case, a per¬ 
petual flowering is sure to follow. Mrs. 
Brooks, with special culture— i.c., the one 
stem, one flower principle, will produce blos¬ 
soms large enough for most purposes, and the 
flowers of the purest white possess a petal 
texture which is excellent. Apart from such 
fine attributes as those described, the plant 
always inclined to a bush-like habit of 
growth, blooms early, and there is not the 
need of very early propagation to ensure 
flowering plants throughout the winter.— 
E J UII J11 3 r Til 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



January IS, 1903 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


621 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 


WATERSIDE GROUPING. 

Many good effects of waterside grouping 
may bo obtained by the exercise of a little 
forethought in choosing suitable subjects, 
sufficient in variety, and arranged with an 
appropriate sense of fitness. The subjoined 
picture, token in Mr. R. Beamish’s garden, 
near Cork, affords us some indication of one 
of the many ways in which such planting may 
be successfully carried out. To the right, 
in the background, may be seen bold groups 
of Spiraea Lindleyana. Spirrea gigantea, with 
its fine heads of whitish flowers. Boeeonia 
oordata, Panieuin virgatum, and Eulalia 
japonica zebrina, intermixed with some of 


I on panicles some U feet to 3 feet in height, , 
and, when boldly treated, in sufficient quaD 
tity, the effect will fully repay any trouble j 
which may be taken in its cultivation. Under 
i the favourable conditions of the south of Eng- 
I land, another effective grouping for the | 
waterside would consist of some dozen plants 
| of Arundo Donax (the Giant Reed), together , 
I with the tall and graceful Kniphofia grandis, ' 
which w r ill send its flower-spikes half-way 
I up the erect green stems of its neighbour. 

' Beyond can be introduced a good group of 
Hemerocallis aurantiaca major and the frec- 
flowering Hemerocallis Kwanso variegata, i 
■ while, overhanging the water’s edge, and in 
front of the Giant Reed, should he placed 
groups of SaxiTraga )x*ltata, Kodgersia podo 1 
phylla—one of the handsomest bronze- 


best climbers for flic suburbs of a town. 
Those who contemplate furnishing arches or 
verandahs, or who require a quick creeper 
for an arbour, giving sweet-scented blossoms 
in profusion, should nut forget the Honey¬ 
suckle. —Townsman. 


CHRISTMAS ROSES. 

In the dreary and dark days of the closing 
year, when, although there is a certain 
amount of flower beauty to be seen in con¬ 
servatory and stove house, the garden, bereft 
of the bronze and gold of the later Chrysan¬ 
themums, is desolate and mournful, it is re 
freshing to come across a great, clump of 
Christmas Roses, the dark green spreading 
leaves overtopped by dozens of large white 



Waterside plants at Ashbourne, near Cork. 


the smaller Bamboos and Grasses. By 
means of mixed grouping, an irregular grassy 
border has been left by the waterside, and 
close to the margin have been placed one or 
two small clumps of Iris Kierapfori, Primula 
japonica, with its deep, purple-red flowers. 
Primula rosea splendens, and the delightful 
little Myosotis rupicola. The foreground of 
the illustration includes such plants as Spi¬ 
raea palmata, white and pink; Astilbe Davidi, 
a useful waterside plant, with graceful spikes 
of rosy flowers; Gunnera scabra; Funkias of 
various kinds; and, close to the bank, the i 
beautiful Gunnera magellanica, a tiny plant 
of creeping habit, with peculiar deep green J 
leaves. Another waterside plant from North , 
America, which should be freely planted in | 
a somewhat sheltered position, is Stenan- 
I thium robustum. Its flo^en# are pure \fhite 


lower# are pure white 

Go gle 


folinged plants ever introduced —together 
with a few of the broad-leaved Irises. 

It must be remembered that nearly all the 
plants above enumerated grow fast, and re¬ 
quire sufficient room for future development. 
Nothing injures natural harmony of effect, 
more than cramped, unnatural restriction in 
planting, and the groups must be so formed 
that each plant may be admired individually, 
while, at the same time, it assumes its right¬ 
ful position in the group of which it forms 
a member. 

Honeysuckles.— Somehow the mention cf : 
Honeysuckle reminds one of the country, and I 
brings to mind porches and walls covered 
with this old time climber; but it is a mistake 
to suppose that it can only be grown in 
country surroundings, for it is one of the 


flower-cups, which stand out conspicuously 
from the sombre surrounding of brown earth. 

The winter Hellebore (H. niger) is far too 
little known, but where a good variety is once 
grown with success, its future in that garden 
is assured, and year hv year the plants will 
increase in size, and the basketfuls of whito 
blossoms brought in for the decoration of 
the house during the dead of winter will be¬ 
come more numerous. Christmas Roses like 
a deep, rich soil having a cool and moist bot¬ 
tom. I have known roots of large plants of 
H. n. altifolius descend to a depth of over 
3 feet, ami although with care Christmas 
Roses will do well in a sunny border, their 
favourite situation seems to be one in which 
a certain amount of not too dense shade as 
well as shelter from boisterous and cold 
winds, can be afforded them. If possible, 








622 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


January IS, 1903 


beds or borders should be made to a depth 
of at least 2 feet 6 inches, and a heavy dress¬ 
ing of cow-manure incorporated with the 
lower foot of the soil. Alter flowering, the 
plants should be mulched with rotten manure 
and leaf mould, and during hot weather large 
supplies of water alternately with weak liquid 
manure and soot-water should bo given. I 
have found that a slight sprinkling, of guano 
once or twice during the period of growth has 
had a very beneficial effect, and the more 
vigorous the growth during the spring and 
summer the more satisfactory will be the 
blooming in the winter. 

Though the aim of the foregoing hints is to 
render the culture of Christmas Roses as 
little liable to failure ns possible, it must be 
confessed that in some gardens, with even 
the most studious attention to every detail 
calculated to ensure success, much is want¬ 
ing ; whereas in others, plants are often 
found in the best of health under the most 
unfavourable conditions, so that even if the 
would-be cultivator is unable to afford that 
depth and quality of soil and amount of atten¬ 
tion which it is judged the plants should 
receive, ho need not necessarily anticipate 
failure. The finest Christmas Roses that it 
has ever been my lot to see were growing in 
the corner of a neglected cottage garden, the 
situation being very dump and exposed to the 
north-east winds. The plants had received 
no attention for years, but flowers fully 
ft inches across were borne in profusion on 
stems almost 2 feet high, and the foliage was 
unusually abundant and healthy. 

Opinions differ as to the best time to plant, 
some growers advocating the montli of Febru¬ 
ary, as soon ns the clumps have ceased bloom¬ 
ing, and others September, by which time the 
summer growth will have been made. I have 
tried both seasons with equal success. One 
point in planting must, however, be strongly 
insisted upon—namely, that large clumps 
should not be replanted in their original en¬ 
tirety, hut should bo divided into as many 
crowns of which such clumps consist. This 
can be easily effected by placing the clump 
ns lifted in tepid water, and, when the soil is 
well softened, washing it from the roots with 
a single jet, syringe or hose. When all is re¬ 
moved, the several crowns should be care¬ 
fully separated, using a sharp knife to divide 
the roots where necessary. The crowns should 
then be planted 18 inches to 2 feet apart in 
a few handfuls of good fibrous loam and leaf- 
mould, or other light and rich soil, care being 
taken that no manure comes into contact 
with the roots. If large clumps are planted 
they usually dwindle away from the centre, 
the crowns and roots rotting, tile whole plant 
often contracting the disease and lapsing into 
an unhealthy state, even if it does not die. 

Some grow the Christmas Roses in tubs 
with great success, and I remember a few 
years since seeing a collection thus grown 
that was a revelation of the. results attainable 
bv this form of cultivation. The tubs used 
were ordinary paraffin casks cut in half, 
and, 1 should say, from recollection, that 
quite 200 blossoms were borne on each plant. 
1 was told at the time that the tubs stood in 
a sheltered situation in the open for ten 
months out of the twelve, being brought, 
under glass as the first blooms appeared above 
the soil. The plants under notice were in 
the perfection of health, the foliage spread¬ 
ing thickly over the rims of the tubs. That 
they had not suffered from inattention during 
their period of growth was proved by their 
condition at the time of my visit. Though 
more care is naturally required where this 
form of culture is resorted to than when the 
planks arc grown in the open, there is no 
reason that it. should not be.tried as supple 
mentarv to the latter system, as when well 
done it is certainly most effective in its 
result. 

When the outdoor method is relied upon 
for the production of cut flowers, some means 
of protecting the blooms from the action of 
rainstorms is advisable. The least cumber¬ 
some is the covering of each individual plant 
with a handlight having a removable top, this 
latter being tilted in fine weather and shut 
down during storms. Another plan is to 
place a garden-frame over the lied, which 
answers the purpos^TSmcst cnunlft* well. 1 

t C.o gte 


have seen framed sheets of glass with iron 
legs placed above the plants, but these, form¬ 
ing no protection in a driving rain-squall, ore 
of but little value. A little shading is not 
amiss, as it tends to lengthen the foot-stalks 
and to impart a purer white to the blossoms. 

F. 

THE GIANT ASPHODELS 
(Eremurus). 

There arc altogether about thirty species of 
Eremuri which have been introduced to 
cultivation. They belong to the order Lili- 
acere. All have been obtained from Asia, 
but especially from Persia, Turkestan, 
Afghanistan, and even so far north as 
Siberia. Many of the species are scarcely 
worthy of cultivation, and are only of in¬ 
terest from a botanical standpoint. A few, 
such as E. robustus and himalaicus, are, 
however, noble plants, which well repay the 
trouble expended upon them. Others, such 
as Olga?, Bungei, etc., will prove of value for 
purposes of hybridisation. It will, however, 
be to the hybrids, such ns the beautiful E. 
Elwesi, that plant lovers will eventually 
turn for still finer effects than can be ob¬ 
tained from the species themselves. Many 
raisers are now at work, and various hybrids 
will,-undoubtedly, be introduced showing im¬ 
provements in size, and form, and colour of 
flower as compared with the original species 
from which they have come. 

Arrangement. —A long, irregular row of 
sixty or seventy Eremuri, some 8 feet to 
10 feet high, is both striking and beautiful, 
as seen with a background of dark green 
Pines, which aid in showing up their magni¬ 
ficent spikes of white or rosy flowers. There 
should, however, lie no attempt at regularity 
in planting, or the effect is at once spoilt, 
but when placed in such a manner as to form 
a broken, though consecutive, whole, their 
value is immediately recognised as a distinct 
addition to landscape effect and an original 
feature in a garden. Before making sug¬ 
gestions as to soil and planting, it may lie 
well to examine briefly the form and struc¬ 
ture of the plants. The leafy crown and 
bloom-spike grow out of a kind of tuber in 
the shape of a node, below and from which 
radiate fleshy, fibrous roots in every direc¬ 
tion like the spokes of a wheel. These snake- 
like roots extend fully 4 feet to 5 feet beyond 
the tubers of the larger species, such as E. 
robustus, and we are thus afforded an indi¬ 
cation of the distance at which mature plants 
should be spaced. It is advisable to plant 
the larger kinds and their hybrids in con¬ 
tinuous triangles with 4 feet or 5 feet be¬ 
tween each ; the soil in which they are grown 
must lie well prepared and rich. This tri¬ 
angular form of planting will furnish two 
irregular rows, in the front of which may be 
placed the smaller sorts, such as Bungei, 
Bungei seedling, and Olga?, etc., in groups of 
three or five of a sort, and 3 feet to 3} feet 
apart. 

Culture and soil. —A loose, sandy loam, 
very rich, and even mixed with stones, so that 
it be thoroughly drained, will lie found the 
best soil in which to grow the plants. The 
fleshy roots are thus enabled to run about and 
find nourishment readily. A close, damp soil, 
poor and sodden with water, is fatal to the 
successful cultivation of these plants. It 
should be rich, for the Eremuri are gross 
feeders, and fond of a warm and sunny situa¬ 
tion. to a certain extent protected from 
wind ; though it is surprising to see how the 
spikes resist its force without any artificial 
aid. The plants also require a certain 
amount of moisture during their time of 
growth, which is rapid, and, ns the large 
heads make their appearance above ground 
somewhat early in the season,, it is necessary 
to protect them from sharp frost by means 
of leaves or Bracken. M. Mottet, the worthy 
chief of plant cultivation for Vilmorin, 
Andrieux. and Co., states that one interest¬ 
ing peculiarity of this group is the yearly 
renewal of their large tuberculous roots, and 
from this fact he draws the evident conclu¬ 
sion that the plants must never be moved or 
disturbed during their time of growth. He 
adds that although the plants are seemingly 
at rest from .July to March, when the heads 
appear at the surface of the soil, the period 


of complete rest does not extend beyond the 
month of October. Thus we have defined 
the time during which the plants may be 
moved without risk—from July to October; 
though, personally, I believe it better to 
undertake any such change during the 
months of August and September. Care 
must lie taken when opening the ground with 
a fork to avoid any serious damage to the 
long, snake-like roots, which are very brittle. 
The plants can be stored dry for a month or 
two, or planted in their new positions at once. 
When replanted, the tuber and its roots 
should bo buried about 6 inches below the 
surface of the soil, the tulier itself resting 
upon and surrounded by a little coarse sand, 
to secure thorough drainage. M. Mottet 
deems it best to transplant the roots every 
autumn, but I have got good results by leav¬ 
ing the plants in the same position for two 
or three years, the ground around the roots 
being freely mulched with well-rotted manure 
in early spring. It is important not to cover 
the heads themselves with this mulching, as 
this might induce damping and decay at the 
neck of the tidier, to its certain loss. 

Increase. —There are two methods of pro¬ 
pagation—division and seed. When the 
plants attain full vigour it will he found that 
they naturally split into two or more crowns, 
which may lie carefully separated after the 
leaves have died down in August or Sep- 
tember. Some of the species seed during 
fine seasons, and the seed may be gathered 
and sown ; but., unfortunately, it takes some 
four to six years for the seedlings to develop 
into flowering plants—yet this is the only 
means by which the many interesting hybrids 
now grown can lie raised. 

Ashbourne , Glounthaune, Cork . B. 

MUNICIPAL GARDENING. 

To the Editor of Gardening Illustrated. 

Sir, — I read with interest the note on 
“Municipal Gardening,” appearing in your 
issue of the 4th inst., and, speaking with a 
knowledge of the place, 1 can quite sympa¬ 
thise with “Arabia” in the deplorably poor 
efforts which have been expended on practi¬ 
cally the one natural “beauty spot” Harro¬ 
gate can boast of. The soil and general con¬ 
tour of the Valley Gardens are splendid, and 
the available material is of the best. I know 
for a fact that Conifers, Rhododendrons, 
Heaths, and Roses, beside the host of less 
exacting plants, do extremely well in Harro¬ 
gate, and. as any gardener knows, where this 
is so one may hope for almost, everything. 
The rocks, that are simply placed anyhow 
along the sides of some of the paths, would, 
more judiciously dealt with, have gone to 
form beautifully “natural” rocky elopes, 
which might have been planted with a variety 
of things calculated to bring credit to the 
town. And substantial credit, too, in the 
way of visitors. Many—I might say most—of 
those visiting Harrogate own to a more or 
less sincere love of gardening. There is no 
reason why, if people are practically com¬ 
pelled, by health reasons, to visit this cool, 
northern town they should lie bored to death 
from lack of a few friends or novelties, in the 
shape of plants and trees, worth a second 
inspection. 

‘“Arabia ” says it would be possible to have 
a rock garden in three years, and that it 
would “act as a magnet to hundreds,” etc. 
By this he evidently means it would be in 
ftill swing by that time. This is certainly 
quite possible, and the scheme might include, 
beside the rockwork and its plants, groups or 
Roses (climbing and dwarf), the nest and 
brightest herbaceous plants, some of the 
more ornamental trees and shrubs, with 
spring-flowering bulbs, and, say, half-a-dozen 
of the hardiest, Nymph a 1 as in the water—to 
take the place of the swans—in the sunnier 
parts, at any rate, with some of the coarser 
Ferns on the waterside. 

However, when all is said, the above is 
merely stating a fact which must have been 
apparent to the municipal authorities for 
some time, and they will, probably, console 
themselves with the knowledge that they arc 
not the only, nor the worst, offenders in 
neglecting the opportunities afforded them by 
Nature. 

uiWepSfty of illinois'aY 001 ’- 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



Jaswauy 18, 190S 


GARDENING ILL V SIR AT ED. 


C^3 




CIIAM.EROPS FORTUNE! IN A HAMP¬ 
SHIRE GARDEN. 

The accompanying illustration shows Cha- 
maerops Fortunei (C. excelsa) growing in my 
garden, whore it. hlossoms annually. Tt, is 


Charmer ops Fortunei in a Hampshire trarrlen. From a photograph 
by E. Alder. 


estimated to be about fifteen years old, and, 

I should say, nearly 18 feet high. Last year I 
it had no protection from frost, thus showing 
the mildness of the climate at Lymington. 

E. Ringler Thomson. 

The Brackens, Lymington , Hants . 

[There used to be, in the gardens at EfTord 
Park, in your neighbourhood, a very fine 
specimen of this Palm, which, in 1897, mea¬ 
sured 23 feet from the ground to the tip of 
the centre leaf. At Heckfield Place, near 
Winchfield, we have seen two very fine speci¬ 
mens, the one a male and the other a female, 
both of which used to flower freely every 
summer. The female plant used to bear 
seeds which ripened, and from which young 
plants were raised. Seeds were not* pro 
duced every year, as the pollen of the male 
was frequently dispersed ere the flowers of 
the other had opened.—E d.] 


summer dried lip the ground before new roots | 
had penetrated to any distance. Now, from 
either of these failures it would be easily pos¬ 
sible to draw erroneous conclusions based 
upon the assumption that this very plant is 
not improved by division or transplanting, 
although, as a matter of fact, 
the operation, rightly per¬ 
formed, is productive of such 
good, that the blooming season 
of divided plants is prolonged 
weeks beyond that of plants 
that have been left standing in 
one position several years. All 
the vigorous Michaelmas Daisies 
are better for being lifted and 
divided every second year, 
whether upon light or heavy 
soils. Few things more quickly 
exhaust the soil in their im¬ 
mediate vicinity or make such 
a thick tuft of shoots above 
ground. Some have advocated 
thinning the shdots, hut this is 
only a means towards an end 
that is l>etter attained by divid¬ 
ing the tufts. In regard Jo these 
Daisies and some of the peren¬ 
nial Sunflowers, it is noticeable 
that they grow considerably 
taller through division and 
transplanting into fresh or rc- 
enriehed soil. A large mass of 
Aster ltevis that should have 
been divided, hut which was 
left through -press of other 
work, did not grow more than 
one yard in height last season. 
It is wonderful how r such 
plants through neglect degene¬ 
rate, or, at any rate, fail to re¬ 
veal their full charms. So long 
a.s they remain as isolated, re¬ 
stricted tufts at the back of 
some mixed border, wj do not 
know or recognise their value, 
and the cffec-t they produce is poor in 
comparison with that of the 6ame plants 
in bold, broad masses. A rough-and-ready 
way of dividing strong tufts is to chop them in 


attached to it. Where pulling to pieces is a 
difficult matter, a tub or pail of water will 
assist, and with some things it is essential 
to wash out the roots, as it were. Especially 
does this apply to any plants that have 
been turned out of pots and have halls of 
matted roots, which unless uncoiled can 
hardly be expected to do their work pro¬ 
perly. _ G. 

The Scorpion Senna (Coronilla Emerus). 
—This forms a very elegant loose bush, from 
4 feet to 6 feet high, with slender shoots. 
It is a native of tne middle and southern 
parts of Europe, is easily increased, either 
by seeds or by cuttings, thrives Well in any 
good garden soil when placed in a sunny, 
sheltered, and rather dry situation, and was 
first introduced in 1596. The leaves are al¬ 
ternate on the young shoots, but crowded 
together on the other parte. They are sub- 
evergreen in mild seasons. The flowers are 
Pea-shaped, and produced plentifully in twos 
and threes, on longish, slender, axillary 
peduncles. They are reddish externally be¬ 
fore opening, but bright yellow- when fully 
expanded, and the two forms being mixed 
together on the plant when in flower in May 
and June, produce a very fine effect. The 
plant, however, keeps on flowering more or 
less until the end of September if in a vigor¬ 
ous state. The legume, or pod, is rather 
more cylindrical than flattened, and, when 
ripe, separated into one-seeded joints. The 
Scorpion Senna is well suited for forming 
small ornamental hedges, as it stands clip¬ 
ping well, and continues producing its flowers 
in succession for a considerable length of 

time.—G.- 

NYMPIL'EA LUCIDA. 

We are so fortunately rich in these beautiful 
hardy hybrid Nymphceas that one is apt to 
take less heed of the more modest and less 
showy ones, of which this is one, and yet a 
beautiful thing. It was photographed last 
year, when, owing to a great influx of hug, 
the Lilies were not in small pools so strong 
as usual. They seemed much more likely to 
be attacked in small pools than in rather 
open water—this, perhaps, from the absence 


TRANSPLANTING AND DIVIDING 
HARDY PLANTS. 


It is now generally agreed that many hardy 
plants are improved by tolerably frequent 
division and transplanting, but it is hardly 
possible that any rule can be laid down as to 
when it should be performed, as soil is one 
of the most potent factors in determining this. 
I have repeatedly had ample proof of this 
upon heavy and light.soils. I once divided 
Romo plants of Coreopsis laneeolata late in 
the month of May in order to make a bold 
group, and the small divided pieces, though 
planted in a sunny sloping border, grew away 
at once and flowered amazingly, though the 
season was hot and dry. Circumstances ne¬ 
cessitated the removal of these plants in the 
succeeding autumn, and the strongest were 
divided, every piece having roots attached, 
and replanted in a bed near at hand. The 
soil was cold, wet, and heavy, and during the 
winter the roots rotted and almost every piece 
failed to grow. The following year, when 
planting some large groups of hardy plants in 
another garden where the soil was warm and 
light, some strong tufts of this same plant 
were divided, but not with great success, for 
many pieces that started afterwards failed to 
grow, and all had to be^ncouraged hy water¬ 
ing. as^tjhe wnrmsui/of liv^pi i^tjiube nr l v 


Nymphfea lucida. 


pieces with a spade or some other edged tool, 
but those who care for their plants will hardly 
treat them so. Even though some things will 
not apparent^ resent it, division is much 
better effected by pulling the tufts to pieces, 
as then each piece will have better roots 


of certain small fish and other creatures that 
devour the small enemies. There is not the 
least difficulty about the cultivation of this 
plant, and in tl|e neural mud of a lake or 
woshings-in from the stream it is happ\^ with¬ 
out any special preparation of the soil?" 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 











624 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED> 


January 18, 1908 


FERN8^ 

HE POTTING FERNS. 

I am of the opinion that Fern*, as a rule*, 
are repotted far oftener than there is any 
necessity for. Regularly as the season comes 
round the repotting of Ferns in many gardens 
is considered of such importance that it is 
attended to annually. Except for some of the 
species which may require extra pot room for 
growing on into specimens, I am of the 
opinion that much of the constant annual re¬ 
potting may well be dispensed with, this not 
only saving labour and material, but also bene¬ 
fiting the plants. It cannot but have been 
noticed, especially in the rase of Maiden hair 
varieties, how when on being repotted the 
growth has not started away so freely as one 
would have been led to expect by the appear¬ 
ance of the crowns beforehand. Often have 
these appeured bristling with incipient fronds, 
but how few have advanced out of this stage. 
This, I am of opinion, may be attributed to 
the everlasting pernicious habit of continually 
repotting. I have some few hundreds of 
Maiden-hair Ferns, which have not been re¬ 
potted for the past three or four years, in 
pots ranging from 5 inches up to 7 inches and 
8 inches in diameter. They are now a mass 
of large, well-developed fronds, and they have 
been the same each succeeding year. I am 
sure these Ferns would not have succeeded 
so well had they been repotted annually. 
Another advantage is they grow better in this 
state in a cold house or even an ordinary 
conservatory. The principal point is to keep 
them well supplied with water, as the pots, 
being crammed with roots, an almost un¬ 
limited supply is needed, also feeding well. 
During the summer the plants are watered 
twice daily, and at this season once a day. 
Whilst in full growth, periodical dressings of 
some fertiliser are given, the fronds retaining 
their healthy green hue throughout the 
season. In the cultivation of Ferns under 
this system of not frequently repotting, care 
must be taken that the pots are efficiently 
drained in the first instance. 

The potting on of young stock is another 
matter, as there must be sufficient rooting 
space afforded to enable them to grow to a 
useful 6ize. Often, where the practice of 
annual repotting is adopted, all that is done 
is to turn them out of the pot, partially re¬ 
duce the old ball of soil, and repot again into 
the same sized pot. Mutilating the roots 
is alone sufficient to check the development 
of the fronds, although by potting on young 
stock the balls are not mutilated to such an 
extent; consequently, they succeed better 
than the older plants. Certainly there comes 
a time when they must be repotted, for if 
the soil be at all "sour or exhausted they will 
not succeed. Letting the plants become over- 
dry is the evil, for with the roots thoroughly 
dry the plant very quickly collapses. Adian- 
tum Farleyense is one of the Ferns that will 
not succeed if allowed to become pot-bound 
to an undue extent. I repot this Fern annu¬ 
ally, but never disturb the roots. A. 


mas, for instance, require more moisture from 
the soil than others with more foliage. G. , 
schizophylla gloriosa, will soon shrivel up if 
neglected, while Adiantums under the same 
conditions will not suffer in the least. Much 
depends upon the artificial heat given. 
Where the plants are near the pipes they will 
require almost as much water during the 
winter as in summer, and unless carefully 
examined they are more likely to suffer from 
the opposite extreme, for the surface may ap¬ 
pear moist, while at the bottom of the pots 
the 6oil may be quite dry. 

Some Ferns when in a warm temperature 
will continue to make new fronds throughout 
the winter, while others mature their fronds 
in the autumn, and do not make new ones i 
until the spring. Those which are growing 
will take more water than those at rest. Most 
of the Adiantums are at rest during the j 
winter unless they are kept too warm, in 
which case the plants become weakened. It . 
is much better to keep a low temperature and j 
the plants rather dry during the autumn ; | 


ORCHIDS. 


POLY ST ACHY A ODORATA. 

The genus Polystacliya includes a largo limn- 
ber of species, chiefly from African sources, 
while some are found in Ceylon, Southern 
India, Malaysia, and tropical America. The 
majority of them, however, possess but little 
interest from a garden point of view; but by 
the botanist all are held in high estimation. 
Our illustration shows one of the prettiest 
and most useful of the genus. Polystachya 
odorata is one of the few which inhabit 
various parts of tropical America. It will b.» 
seen in the illustration that all of the flowers 
are inverted, which structural character is 
prominent in the majority of the species. 
The spike is about 1 foot in length. The in¬ 
florescence consists of eight branches of 
creamy-white flowers, the lip pure white. 
The flowers are sweetly scented, and tho 
spike is useful for cutting, lasting for more 
than a month in a fresh condition. There 



Polystachya odorata. From a photograph in Sir Trevor Lawrence’s garden at 
Burford Lodge, Dorking. 


WATERING FERNS. 

Althouoii Ferns like a more humid atmos¬ 
phere than most plants, it i6 a great mistake 
to suppose that they require such copious sup¬ 
plies of water at the root as many seem to 
consider necessary. With all pot plants, 
watering is one of the most important factors 
in producing healthy and luxuriant growth, 
and with Ferns it is very necessary to give 
water judiciously, especially to the more deli¬ 
cate sorts. I believe that many of our 
choicest Ferns are lost through excess of 
moisture at the root, and the ordinary sorts, 
more particularly Adiantums, are weakened 
from the same cause. Plants which have been 
kept fairly dry at the root during the winter 
will, now as the weather gets brighter, start 
away freely and throw up strong, healthy 
fronds, while those which have been saturated 
with water will produce weak and sickly 
growths. When once they get into this con¬ 
dition it takes a long time to set them right. 
It would bo useless to say how often Ferns 
should be watered, as much depends upon 
circumstances, some sorts requiring much 
more water tliuu otherg*^ The Gymnpgrnm- 

" Digitized by 


lrmg mut 
lymnograc 

.gle 


then they will start away vigorously. The 
temperature may be raised as the days 
lengthen, water being given freely while the 
plants are growing. Ferns which lose nil 
their fronds during the winter require careful 
attention. The soil must be moist enough to 
keep the roots in good condition, as it is a 
mistake to dry them up too much. The de¬ 
ciduous Adiantums are among the most diffi¬ 
cult Ferns to keep through the winter. I 
find they do best if placed on a shelf and kept 
sufficiently moist to prevent the soil from 
cracking away from the pots. A. lunulatum, 
A. palmatum, A. speciosum, and A. Henslow- 
ianum are deciduous, and those who are not 
acquainted with their habits are apt to throw 
them away after they have lost their fronds, 
in the belief that they are dead. Leucostegia 
immersa keeps well in a dry, cool place. The 
hardier deciduous Ferns are better when 
moderately moist. F. 

Caterpillars in tin box —There \va9 no letter 
with this. It is the caterpillar of the swift-moth 
(Hepialus lupulinus), which feeds on the roots of 
various herbaceous plants.—0. 8. S. 


are several other varieties, as P. Ottomans, 
P. grandiflora, P. laxiflora, P. Lawrenceana, 
P. Zambesiaca, etc., which are well deserving 
the attention of cultivators of Orchids. 

All of these plants grow freely when sus¬ 
pended close to the roof-glass of the warmest 
house, and they, therefore, should be planted 
either in small pots or shallow pans, with 
suitable wire handles attached to them. The 
receptacles should be about half-filled with 
small crocks for drainage, and a thin layer 
of Sphagnum above these, upon which the 
roots of the plants should be placed, filling 
up to the rhizome with the following com¬ 
post : Polypodium-fibre and Osmunda-nbre in 
equal parts, cutting both materials up mode¬ 
rately fine, and well mixing them together, 
taking care to mix a reasonable quantity of 
small crocks with it, as the plants, when in 
full growth, require an almost unlimited 
supply of water. It is not. advisable or 
necessary to use Sphagnum Moss intermixed 
with these fibrous materials. The proper 
time to repot Polystachyas is when the new 
growths have fairly started, which usually 
occurs very soon after flowering. 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




January IS, 190S 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


625 


VEGETABLES. 

MANURES AND THEIR APPLICATION. 
The application of manure suitable for the 
various spring crops in the kitchen garden 
will now be engaging attention, and various 
will be the materials brought into requisi¬ 
tion. Manure, as a rule, is applied at the 
time of digging. I very much doubt if the 
too early application of manure before crop¬ 
ping, as obviously necessary when early dig¬ 
ging is done, is beneficial to the crops. 'With 
light or sandy soils I am certain too early 
manuring is a mistake, as before the crops 
have come to maturity the principal virtues 
of the manure will have been exhausted, and 
at a time when most wanted. Market gar¬ 
deners in the neighbourhood of Liondon very 
rarely apply the manure long before crop- 
ping. I am well aware that in many gardens 
"here labour is somewhat scarce the digging 
and manuring have to be performed as op¬ 
portunity offers, and generally the earlier the 
better, as if this were not done the work pro¬ 
bably would he much in arrears at the busy 
♦ieason of the year. This is the only excuse 
that I can see for early manuring. The too 
early wheeling out of manure is another mis¬ 
take—at least, where it is spread over the 
ground in small heaps. With the advent of 
frosty weather, advantage is generally taken 
of the opportunity offered of getting the 
manure on to the ground. Certainly there 
can be no mistake in this, but there is in 
placing the manure in small heaps, especially 
early in the season, when the frost is likely 
to be prolonged. In this way the virtues of 
the manure are wasted by being evaporated 
into the atmosphere. The best system is to 
wheel into one or more heaps, according to 
the size of the plot to be manured. 

Farmyard-manure is a commodity which all 
gardeners cannot procure, but where such can 
be obtained in fair quantity there can be no 
doubt of its being the best for kitchen gar¬ 
den crops. Cow and horse-manure in about 
equal parts comes next. Stable manure is the 
usual material at command, and very often 
not a great quantity of this, especially where 
the principal part of the droppings has to be 
used for the formation of Mushroom beds 
and the bulk of the remainder of the litter 
for hot-beds. 

The manure must not be allowed to remain 
in bulk very long from fear of becoming 
over heated, as when such is the case the 
greater part of the virtue is lost. The heap 
must be turned as frequently as occasion re¬ 
quires. Where there is convenience, a tunk 
or catch pit should be provided, «o as to 
secure all the drainings, which should be 
thrown back again over the heap. Old hot¬ 
beds composed of stable litter and leaves 
generally have to be used up in the kitchen 
garden, where manure is scarce, but these 
are not very rich, and, excepting for Pota¬ 
toes, such material is more useful for the 
flower borders. Leaves, which, probably, 
have been collected together in large quanti¬ 
ties and become over-heated, are often used, | 
but, unless for very heavy soils, I have not 
much faith in them. Decaying kitchen gar¬ 
den refuse and rubbish from lawns and 
pleasure grounds, etc., are also often used, 
but their munurial value is very small, especi¬ 
ally where used on light land, and, to some 
c rops, where it is used year after year, it is 
injurious, and a disease which has lieen 
rather prevalent of late years among Peas 
has been traced to this source. Where such 
material has to be used all the rougher por¬ 
tions should be burnt and reduced to ashes, 
and the remainder have a good dressing of 
fresh lime. Gardens manured with such 
material would be much benefited by appli¬ 
cations of lime or a dressing of steamed bone- 
meal or, what would be better, superphos¬ 
phate of lime. On light or peaty soils the 
above additions would be of marked value, 
especially for such crops as Peas or Beans. 
In the neighbourhood of large towns the 
road-scrapings, especially when they can be 
procured in a dry state, are excellent for 
improving soils. 

Soot is a capital fertiliser for thepiajority 
of kitelien garden tropf^^ut j)Ritat<* gar¬ 
deners, as a rule, doVotigive it tflk Intention 


its merits deserve, market gardeners and 
farmers being more fullv alive to its value. 
Nitrate of soda will also assist some crops 
wonderfully, but must not be applied to roots 
of either Peas or Beans, or a. superabundance 
of top-growth would be the result. As a 
stimulant to a bed of spring Cabbago which 
is backward in growth or in a stunted condi¬ 
tion. the improvement is very marked, the 
plants forming hearts more quickly and tak¬ 
ing on a dark, healthy colour. The best 
Peruvian guano may also be used for the 
same purpose. Salt in moderation and ou 
some soils is also good for Seakale, Aspara¬ 
gus, and Celery. A. 


CELERIES AT WISLEY. 

Theke are many assumed varieties of Celery 
in commerce. Not all are dissimilar, but the 
work of testing identity or of divergence 
seems to be no one’s duty. Possibly were 
such duty undertaken, and the results pub¬ 
lished, no benefit would follow, for the simple 
reason that names that have certain trade 
values would be retained. After all, the best 
thing is to bear with this excess of names, 
and try and find out which, after all, repre¬ 
sent the best varieties. That was the object 
of a trial of some forty-four stocks of Celery 
and four stocks of Celeriac, conducted this 
season in the Royal Horticultural Gardens, 
Wisley. The seeds of all stocks were sown 
on March 15th lust, the plants, when strong 
enough, being put out- into well-prepared, 
broad trenches, and in double rows in each 
trench. The Wisley soil is a deep eand, but 
when liberally niunurod is retentive, and cer¬ 
tainly suits Celery well. A special feature of 
the trial was the comparative immunity from 
maggot attacks seen on the leaves. Prob¬ 
ably, the plants had suffered more from fierce 
winds and excessive rains, as in the outer 
stems, especially of those which have hollow 
or pipy stems, there was seen a good deal of 
decay. Generally, however, the well- 
blanched centres were solid, and clean. No 
doubt planting the trenches with double rows 
of plants, thus compelling the surfaces of the 
ridges to be flat, rather than poiuted, caused 
a good deal of rain to congregate about the 
buried stems. The general impression of the 
members of the fruit and vegetable commit¬ 
tee of the R.H.S., who inspected the trial on 
the 18th ult., was that single rows, with 
sharp, pointed ridges, would have saved the 
plants from such excessive wettings. When 
the varieties were examined, three or four 
plants were dug out from eacli row, cut 
through their centres, and in that way judged 
for merit. The stems were also examined, to 
see whether soft and hollow or solid and firm. 
No award was made to any stock that did not 
show the latter quality, as well as having 
a solid white, dean centre. 

Olio feature of the award was that, with 
one exception, all were made to coloured 
varieties. These not only had stood the 
weather Ijetter, but had given the greatest 
body of blanched, solid heart. The following 
stocks obtained awards of merit: Williams’ 1 
Matchless Red (Veitcli and Sons) ; Early 
Rose (Veitch and Sons) ; Globe Pink (Nut¬ 
ting) ; Pink Beauty, very fino (Barr and 
Sons); New Solid Pink (Barr and Sons) ; and 
the one white variety, the old Dwarf White 
Incomparable, not previously honoured. This 
stock from Nutting was pronounced to be 
identical with the best stock of Sandringham 
Dwarf White in the trial. Previous awards 
were confirmed to Standard Bearer (Jas. 
Carter and Co.), and to Iverv and Nonsuch 
Pink (Veitch and Sons). In addition to these 
Celeries, an award of merit was made to a 
stock of Celeriac, the bulbous roots of which, 
when cut through, were very white and solid. 
This stock came from Veitch and Sons. It 
was well worthy of note that until aw r ards 
were made no one knew’ from what firm the 
stocks came. Every one w’as judged on its 
individual merits. As Celeriac is not com 
monly grown, it may be w’orth mentioning 
that not only does this root, when cooked and 
peeled, make a very pleasant and a whole¬ 
some dish, hut if, after being cooked, the 
roots are allowed to cool, then are sliced, 
they make a delightful salad. Generally 
this season Celery has largely deteriorated 
because of the attacks of the maggot, to 


which it has been subjected. Perhaps the 
open district at Wisley, with no other Celery 
near, helped to save the stock from injury, 
although hand-picking was at one time largely 
resorted to. It is also possible that because 
of the contiguity of woods birds prey on the 
Celery-fly. In any case, a remedy for this 
destructive pest is very badly needed. 

A. D. 

NOTEX AND 11EPLLEX. 

A supply of vegetables. -Will you kindly tell 
me what quantity of vegetable seeds would be re¬ 
quired to furnish a supply for eight persons for one 
season of Peas, Beans, Onions, Potatoes, Carrots, 
Parsnips, Beet, Artichokes, Cabbage, Cauliflower, 
Brussel Sprouts, and Celery?—N eenton. 

[Any answer to such a question as yours 
must of necessity bo problematical, as so 
much depends on the eight |>ersons’ require¬ 
ments in vegetables, os these greatly vary. 
But, assuming their needs were of the aver¬ 
age character, there is the question of the 
extent of ground to be cropped, its condition 
to give good crops or otherwise, the culture 
given to the crops, and the sowing of seeds 
thinly or otherwise. We should, probably, 
make a quart of Peas sow’ a row r twice, or 
even thrice, the length another person would, 
and yet get relatively far heavier crops. 
However, of Peas to make eight different 
sowings from February till May, at least 
eight pints would bo needed. A quart in two 
sowings of Long Pod Beans, the same of 
Runner Beaus in two sowings, and a pint of 
Dwarf Kidney Beaus in four sowings. At 
least four ounces of Onion-seed for spring 
sowing, and two ounces for autumn sowing. 
Of Potatoes, one peck of first early, two 
pecks of second early, and from three to four 
bushels of main crop tubers should be plan¬ 
ted. The source from whence the seed is 
obtained may make all the difference as to 
the tuber crop. Sow’ twice Carrot-seed ; 
first one ounce, and second two ounces, 
thinly ; of Parsnip-seed, three ounces in one 
sowing, the same of Long Beet, and earlier 
of Globe-shaped Beet one ounce. Cabbage- 
seed may l>e sown in July, August, anti 
March, half-aii-ounce each time; of Cauli¬ 
flower-seed, a quarter of an ounce of Snow¬ 
ball under glass in January, and half-an 
ounce each of Walcheren and Autumn Giant 
in March outdoors ; also half-an-ounce of 
Brussels Sprouts-seed, and the same of 
Scotch Kale and Savoy Cabbages. Sow’ a 
quarter of an ounce of Celery under glass in 
March, and a further similar quantity in 
April and May, to give a succession. If you 
mean tuberous Artichokes, then a peck of 
medium tubers, planted in Maryh, should 
suffice. There still remain white Turnips, 
Spinach, Lettuce, Vegetable Marrows, 
Radishes, Cucumbers, Tomatoes, with other 
things to be remembered. Still, do not for¬ 
get that deeply-worked, well-manured ground, 
and after culture, have much to do with fur 
nishing a good supply of vegetables.] 

Winter Cucumbers. It sometimes hap¬ 
pens that Cucumber-plants which have been 
bearing freely all the autumn will lose tone 
now’, and show signs of distress, and. where 
many Cucumbers are required, there is 
usually another house coming into bearing, 
ready to take the place of the exhausted 
plants, and that simplifies matters, as there 
are usually young plants ready to plant the 
second house when it has had a thorough 
cleaning. Where wood-lice are troublesome, 
it generally arises through not making a 
thorough clearance of all the old material. 
If any drv soil or old manure is left over or 
near the hot-water pipes, there the wood-lice 
will be found, and the only way to get rid 
of them, if the manure cannot all be cleared, 
is to saturate it and fill every crevice with 
boiling water. When the house is clean, 
fresh material can be brought in, and the 
plants set out 3 feet apart. They are some¬ 
times planted 2 feet apart, but there is 
nothing gained bv overcrowding where a long 
succession of good fruits is wanted. Cu¬ 
cumbers are usually planted in lighter soil 
than is used for Melons, but at least half the 
compost should be good, turfv loam, free 
from wipeworms or celvvorms. Vaporifce may 
be mixed with the soil if there is any doubt 
about if. 



January 18, 1008 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


62G 


GARDEN WORK. 

Conservatory.— January is the worst 
month for flowers, but a good forcing-house 
and a suitable stock of well-ripened shrubs 
and plants will soon make the house bright. 
Tree-Carnations are now very sweet, and in¬ 
dispensable for cutting. Roses also are mov¬ 
ing—in fact, we have been cutting flowers all 
through the winter from Teas and Hybrid 
Teas ; but the plants which have been rested 
and are now breaking will throw finer and, I 
think, sweeter flowers. There is nothing 
equal to a lied of gently fermenting leaves to 
bring out the Roses, the pots to in* plunged 
just deep enough in the leaf-bed t*» steady 
them. Any yoimgshoots which can be spared 
from the Carnation during February may lx) 
taken off and used as cuttings. They will 
root freely in damp sand in a steady heat. I 
have rooted them in pans of damp sand 
placed over the hot-water pipes. There are, 
of course*, other methods of rooting these 
cuttings, nitrl the work is not difficult. Sandy 
compost and genial conditions will bring 
success. rr rooted in sand the cuttings 
should be potted off n-3 soon as rooted. Now 
that good flowering specimens are leas 
numerous, make the most of them by lifting 
them up, and such small stuff as Primulas, 
Cinerarias, Cyclamens, and bulbs of various 
kinds can he best arranged in groups. 
Double and single Narcissi, ineluding Paper- 
While, may be transferred to wide pans. We 
generally fill a. few large pots and pans 
for the conservatory, though plants in 5-ineh 
or 0 inch pots may be grouped and be sur¬ 
rounded with dwarf Ferns. All the Pterises 
will conic in useful for this work. Seedling 
Aralias in 4-inch puts arc easily raised in 
quantity for forming groundwork, and come 
in well to place round groups of Hyacinths. 
Just now groups of Libonia fieri hunda arc 
pretty. To obtain plenty of flowers the 
plants should be ripened outside. The most 
beautiful groups just now arc composed of 
Begonia Gloire do Lorraine, but the plants 
want a little warmth—not less than 50 degs. 
at night -to keep them in condition. 

Stove. Avoid fluctuations of temperature ; 
60 (legs, at night will be high enough, and 
in such weather as we are having now, with 
a. keen cast wind, there will be enough venti¬ 
lation through the laps of the glass without 
opening lights. A good deal will depend 
upon the character of the heating apparatus. 
It is a mistake to have too small a boiler or 
too limited a quantity of pipes, as when a 
fire is driven hard there must be waste of 
fuel. With enough boiler power, flues kept 
clean, mid plenty of pijies. after the fire is 
started it ought to be possible to work with 
the damper nearly in and the bottom door J 
closed or, in other words, get up a good 1 
fire and then work on the slow combustion 
principle, then every pound of fuel does its 
right amount of work. Atmospheric mois¬ 
ture must lie supplied in proportion to the 
tire used, and most of this will be given in 
damping floors. Such summer - flowering 
climbers as Allamaudus should )>e pruned 
back to well ripened wood, and hy-and-hye 
lie repotted, using good loam and ]>eat, with 
enough sand to keep it open and sweet. The 
drainage, if grown in pots, should be free, ns 
though now they are rather dry. as soon as 
growth begins these plants will require a 
good deal of water, with some stimulant when 
flower-trusses appeal*. 

Early vinery. As soon as the bunches 
are visible, disbud all shoots which are not 
required, keeping those, of course, which are 
showing the best bunches. Vines are often 
trained too near the glass. From 16 inches 
to 18 inches is a reasonable distance, and all 
young shoots should be* drawn down to the 
wires liefurc they touch the glass. There is 
more fluctuation of temperature near the 
glass than lower down, hence the advantage 
of dropping the trellis a few inches when tin? 
foliage is near the gla.^s. Stop ail laterals 
two leaves U-iund the bunch. IT Vines are 
1 rained at a less distance from each other 
than 3 feet, it may be necessary to stop one 
leaf beyond the bunc hes, but tw o good leaves 
are better. Ijct enolfTFaLJiave rmliL-do de- 
v<hy. and Hu* wo^j^fj v* vie clone. 


Muriate of potash, at the rate of one ounce 
per square yard, will be useful on the border, 
repeated several times during the season. 

Early Peaches. -Inside borders may be 
dressed occasionally with muriate of potash 
and superphosphate, if the trees are bearing 
freely. An ounce or so per square yard 
several times during the season are better 
than only giving one heavy dressing. We 
may safely start with the assumption that 
healthy Peach-trees under glass bearing 
annually a good crop will pay for liberal 
treatment. If there is n. liquid-manure tank 
in a farmyard near, that source may be 
drawn upon, diluting if necessary, but for 
some time in the early season it should be 
warmed by mixing warm water with it. This 
is not a difficult, business generally, as warm 
water can be obtained from a draw-off tap 
in a boiler. Pay attention to the blossoms 
with the brush or rabbi t’s-tail—especially 
those on tho upper side of the trellis. 

Strawberry forcing.— If many Straw¬ 
berries are, wanted early, there should be a 
Strawberry forcing-house, with the means of 
raising a temperature of 60 degs. at night. 

I have generally started the first batch in a 
low pit. the pots partly plunged in a heap 
of leaves. Here near the glass the trusses of 
bloom are large, and when the blossoms be¬ 
gin to expand move the plants to a light 
span-roofed house, where the plants can be 
near the glass, and fertilise the blossoms 
daily, when the pollen is rip:* and dry. In¬ 
troduce fresh batches of plants to the leaf- 
bed often enough to keep up a constant suc¬ 
cession. for if there is no succession the 
gardener will have trouble. Thus, not only 
the regular Strawberry-house, but every 
spare shelf in vinery or Peach-liouse may 
have to be filled with plants before long, to 
keep ii]) the succession. 

Cucumbers. If we have very cold nights, 
which seems likely, let the temperature drop 
to 60 degs., which means that, probably, it 
may be a degree or two below on cold morn¬ 
ings, but the man in charge of the fires must 
be an early riser, and it will often be late 
before he takes rest, if fluctuations of tein- 
perature are to he avoided. 1 would rather 
have a slight full in severe weather than 
have the house too hot from hot pipes. 
Hence the value of sufficient pipes in warm- 
houses. 

Plants in the house.— We shall have to 
depend in some measure in very severe 
weather upon fine-fnli aged plants. Palms 
are indispensable, and Kentias arc among the 
most suitable. Keep the foliage clean. 
Good specimen Aspidistras arc always in 
demand. For flowering plants bulbs will be 
drawn upon. Freesia-s, Hyacinths, Tulips, 
and Narcissi " ill form lovely groups, and they 
last well. Lily of the Valley and Lilium 
Harrisi from retarded bulbs will be available. 

Outdoor garden. -With sharp frost comes 
the need for protection, in the case of lender 
plants, but the careful cultivator will have 
anticipated all this and have prepared for 
the change of weather. In most cases, sup¬ 
posing the protecting materials are ready, it 
is sometimes w ise to wait for the first night’s 
frost to harden the ground a little, as one 
cau then move about cleanly. Recently- 
planted things may require a little protec¬ 
tion, especially if anything has been moved 
from a sheltered place to an exposed one. 1 
have sometimes moved large shrubs in frosty 
weather with success. Tho soil holds to¬ 
gether better, and, the surface beiug hard, 
there is less disturbance, in moving heavy 
weights over it. It is always an advantage 
to prepare large things the season before by 
digging a trench round and cutting the roots, 
filling the trench up with a little better soil 
and ramming it in firmly. This is work 
which can be done in frosty weather. Cedars 
and other heavy-foliagod evergreen trees 
should be relieved of the snow on the 
branches. This can easily be shaken olT by 
using a long pole. Much harm may be done 
by heavy falls of snow, unless some attention 
is given. In open weather new beds and 
borders may lie trenched and prepared for all 
kinds of hardy plants, to be ready for spring 
plant ing. 


Fruit garden. Fruit-trees and bushes 
may be dressed with lime or washed with in¬ 
secticides. The buds are all dormant now, 
and the wash may lx* applied in frosty 
weather without injuring the trees. After so 
much rain the liquid-manure tanks and cess¬ 
pools may require emptying, and this, if not 
required elsewhere, may be given to the fruit- 
trees, selecting those which bear ‘freely. 
Some Apple-trees, such as Peasgood’s Non¬ 
such, Bramley’s Seedling, and Warners 
King, which grow very freely when young, 
may have the roots checked. It would have 
been better if this work had been done in 
autumn, but it is better late than putting it 
ofF till next season. Pimaslon Duchess, 
Beurre Did, and some other Pears usually, 
when young, grow very freely, and though, 
if we can wait, there may not he much lost 
in the long run, as youth is the time for 
growth, yet where fruit is wanted early, lift¬ 
ing the trees or checking the roots in some 
other wav may be usefully adopted. Dwarf¬ 
ing stocks for Apples and Pears arc a good 
deal used now, but we must not forget the 
surface feeding, and in this respect Pears 
oil the Quince require support more so than 
Apples on the Paradise, and there should he 
no digging over the root-s of such trees. 

Vegetable garden. In had weather Pea- 
sticks can be carted home and prepared for 
use. Potatoes may be sorted over and placed 
in a. position to start the crown eyes. Any 
building that will give light and keep out 
frost will suffice. For filling frames or grow¬ 
ing in pots the sols may ho started in boxes 
in warmth. Early Peas may lx? started in 
pots thinly for planting out in March, or if 
there is a house at liberty Peas may be 
planted therein either in 7-inch pots or sown 
thinly in rows across the border. Those who 
have spare houses may utilise them in this 
way. The Pens will come otT in time for 
Tomatoes. Peas will not bear forcing, but 
they will come on quietly in a temperature of 
40 degs. to 45 degs. at night, with free ven¬ 
tilation during the day. Those who have 
much demand for Rhubarb and Seakale will 
always reserve space in the Mushroom-house 
or in warm pits. The Seakale crowns will 
have been taken up and laid in handy to the 
forcing place. The same course is usually 
adopted with Asparagus roots. They have 
either been lifted and covered with litter or 
the beds have been covered to keep out the 
frost. Cauliflowers must be protected now, 
ancl the pits matted. 

E. Hobday. 


THE COMING WEEK’S WORK. 

Extracts from a Garden Diary. 

January 20th .— Bad weather is being 
utilised in some measure for doing necessary 
work under glass, such as whitewashing all 
wall surfaces, washing paint and glass. 
Where it is possible to take all plants out of 
a house, the inside woodwork will be painted, 
our own staff doing this work. We are 
generally too full with stuff and too busy to 
do such work in the summer. 

January 21st.— In trenching we never bury 
snow or frozen earth. All spare time, when 
the weather is suitable, is devoted to deepen 
ing and improving the land. All garden rub¬ 
bish is now being smother burned, and this 
smouldering fire will go on for some time, 
this solving the trouble from the seeds of 
weeds which often occur in heaps of rubbish 
w hen left to decay naturally. 

January 22nd. When heavy falls of snow 
come men go round with poles and shake all 
large evergreen trees and shrubs, to remove 
the snow, to prevent, the weight splintering 
the branches. Filled another frame with 
Asparagus roots. Six inches of light soil are 
placed on the crowns, and a soaking of warm 
liquid-manure given. Tho frame is then 
matted up till the “grass” is coming through. 
The frames come in for Potatoes or Lettuces 
after the Asparagus roots are taken out. 

January JJrd. Potted more Lily of the 
Valley crowns, and put in more Chrysanlh* 
mum' cuttings. This will receive attention 
from time to time, as good cuttings become 
available. Commenced potting off Pelar- 
gbniune ail finp' thjiMvcrc sfprek in autumn. 



January IS, 190S 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


627 


Tli«y will have a little heat to start them. 
Early vineries or Peach-houses will be uti¬ 
lised for a time, as every bit of space has to 
be made the most of now. Tomatoes are 
sown very thinly to avoid crowding. 

January 2Jjh. —There is always work 
among fruit-trees, as washing with lime or 
other substances can be done during frost. 
Gishurst compound as a cheap wash has not 
altogether been superseded yet, and those 
who have been in the habit of using it need 
not discard it. A solution of 4 ounces to the 
gallon, dissolved in boiling water, may be 
used upon dormant trees. Soft soap and 
jmtroleum boiled together make a good, cheap 
wash. 

January Jot/t. Saturday i* generally given 
up to tidying up both indoors and outside. 
The conservatory is re-arranged with fresh 
plants introduced, and every plant is care¬ 
fully examined and the necessary watering 
done, as we do not believe in more Sunday 
work than is absolutely necessary. Intro¬ 
duced more plants into forcing-house, includ¬ 
ing Mint. Tarragon, etc. Sowed early Paris 
Market Lettuces in boxes in bent. 


POULTRY. 

SOME HINTS ON HOUSING POULTRY. 
While costly and elaborate houses are quite 
unnecessary for poultry, they require to be 
well and substantially built, in order that 
the interiors may be warm, free from 
draughts, but, at the same time, well venti¬ 
lated, and perfectly dry. Many of the 
poultry houses one sees in travelling about 
the country are quite unfit for their purpose, 
frequently causing ill-health and loss among 
the birds; if disease be not actually en¬ 
gendered, the supply of eggs is diminished, 
and the young stock does not develop so 
quickly. It is immaterial what form or shape 
the house takes, provided certain general 
principles are adhered to, the chief of which 
are mentioned in the succeeding paragraphs. 

It is often possible to convert an old out¬ 
building into an excellent poultry house, and 
particularly is this the case when it is con¬ 
structed of bricks. If, however, one lias to 
be specially erected, wood is the most con¬ 
venient and cheapest material to use, but on 
no account, should it be less than three- 
quarters of an inch in thickness. The great 
fault with so many of the houses supplied by 
the appliance-makers is that they are made 
of too thin material—sometimes only half or 
three-eighths of an inch thick, which is in¬ 
sufficient- to keep the interior warm during 
the winter or cool during the summer. Cor¬ 
rugated iron, while it makes an excellent 
covering for the roof, is quite unsuitable 
alone, being a very rapid conductor of heat 
and cold, and thus making the inside of the 
house too hot in the summer and too cold in 
the winter. It requires to be lined with thin 
matchboarding—three-eighths of an inch is 
sufficient—and a space a couple of inches 
should be left between the iron and match¬ 
ing, which allows a current of air to pass 
between, assisting very materially in main¬ 
taining an equable temperature. 

The majority of poultry houses are much 
too dark, and usually, if there is a window at 
all, by no means always the case, it is only 
a small one. It should never be forgotten 
that light is one of the greatest purifiers we 
possess, and no place that is always dark can 
be either sweet or dry. In every poultry 
house there should be a window, at least 
18 inches square, which should, preferably, 
face south or south-east. It is a good plan 
to have the window hinged, so that during 
the summer months it con remain open, wire 
netting being substituted to keep the birds 
within. 

A matter that is frequently neglected in the 
housing of poultry is that of ventilation, but 
upon it depends, in no small measure, the 
health and consequent profitableness of the 
flock. It is no uncommon thing during the 
winter months for the fowls to have to re¬ 
main in the roosting compartment for four¬ 
teen, and even fifteen, hours at a stretch. 
It will be readily seen that if the birds have 
to remain in a vitiatecLjRmosphere for so 
long, it must affect fliem -^ery fSfilWQly* 
Moreover, if the hou. ^g ~re Jino 


stuff}', through lack of ventilation, the birds 
when they issue out in the mornings are 
liable to colds and chills. A gentle current 
of air should pass through the house well 
above the heads of the birds, removing the 
used-up, vitiated air and allowing fresh to 
take its place. 

The perches, which are best made from Fir 
poles about l.}- inch or 2 inches in diameter, 
should all be on the same level, about 
12 inches or 18 inches from the ground. 
There is no advantage ill having high 
perches, while there are several distinct 
drawbacks. Birds upon high perches are, 
probably, in llic direct line of draught, be¬ 
sides which they are liable to hurt themselves 
in flying down on to the hard ground. The 
worst feature of high perches, however, is 
that, the birds are roosting near the roof, 
and, should a sudden frost come on, the cold 
strikes down through the roof directly oil to 
the backs of the birds, causing, in very many 
cases, liver disease. 

No greater mistake can be made in housing 
poultry than that of overcrowding, and while 
this fact seems to be generally realised with 
other classes of stock, the utmost neglect is 
often shown regarding fowls. The air in 
overcrowded houses becomes vitiated, and the 
health and stamina of the birds quickly de¬ 
teriorate, often resulting in disea.se and 
death. It is difficult to lay down any lmrd- 
and-fa.st rules regarding this important mat¬ 
ter, and a good deal must be left to the one 
in charge. Roughly speaking, in ordinary 
closed-in houses 2 square feet of floor space 
should he allowed per .adult fowl—that is to 
say. a house measuring 5 feet by 8 feet will 
accommodate about twenty fowls. The large 
breeds require more space than small ones, 
and growing birds do not need so much as 
2 square feet. In the open-air form of house 
half as many birds again can be easily accom¬ 
modated as in one that is closed in, so that 
a shed 5 feet by 8 feet can house thirty birds 
in comfort. E. T. B. 

BEES. 

THE GARDEN APIARY. 

Many gardeners keep bees, and, apart from 
the honey that may thus be secured, the bees 
undoubtedly benefit the fruit blossoms. But 
when bees arc kept in a garden they should 
be so kept as to enhance, not detract from, 
the appearance of the garden, and an effort 
should be made, also, to prevent the bees 
being a nuisance aud so preventing the full 
enjoyment of the garden. 

The hives should Ik; stood in the open, and 
in a not too sheltered position, and it should 
be easy to approach them from the rear, so as 
to give the necessary attention. Apart from 
this, however, the hives should, if possible, 
be so placed that a stroll round the garden 
in company with a friend may he undertaken 
without going close to them. In a garden 
where proper regard is paid to its appearance 
the hives should be neat structures and nicely 
painted. A good colour is stone-colour; but 
any colour that goes well with the surround¬ 
ings may be chosen. If stood near any other 
painted work, however, see that the hives 
either match or make a harmonious 1 contrast. 
As regards the hives, it may be said that 
those having span roofs present the most 
picturesque appearance, though the lean-to 
type of roof answers just as well, so far as 
the bees themselves are concerned. 

Some strains of bees are very bad-tempered 
and aggressive, whilst others are just the 
reverse. Vicious bees should never he kept 
in a garden that is desired to be pleasurable 
as well as useful, and when the bees are thus 
faulty they should lie either cleared out and 
replaced by ones of a quieter strain, or im¬ 
proved bv the introduction of queens from a 
stock thut is known to lie very good tempered. 
Foreign queens are sometimes recommended 
for introducing with a view to improvement 
of temper; but this docs not answer in all 
eases; and should crossed bees turn out 
vicious they are much worse than unmannerly 
native bees. 

When keeping bees in a garden, keep them 
away from the public road or footpath and 
where they cannot annoy n neighbour. 

J. T. Bird. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

Questions. —Queries and answers are inserted in 
Gardkm.no free of charge if correspondents follow these 
rules: All communications should be clearly and concisely 
written on one side of the paper only, and addressed to 
the Editor of Gardkmno, 17, Furnival-slrect, llolborn, 
London, E.&. Letters on business should be sent to the 
Publisher. The name and address of the sender are 
required in addition to any designation ha may desire to 
be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, 
each should be on a separate piece of paper, and not more 
than three queries should be sent at a time. Correspon¬ 
dents should bear in mind that, as Gardemxo has to be 
sent to press some time in ad ranee of date, queries cannot 
always be replied to in the issue immediately following 
the receipt of their communication. Wc do not reply to 
queries by post. 

Naming ftruit.— Readers who desire our help in 
naming fruit should bear in mind that several specimens 
in different stages of colour and size of the same hind 
greatly assist in its determination. Il'c hare received, from 
several correspondents single, specimens of fruits for 
naming , these in many cases being unripe and other¬ 
wise poor. The differences between varieties of fruits are 
in many cases so trifling that it is necessary that three 
specimens of each kind should be sent. We can undertake 
to name only four varieties at a time, aiul these only when 
the above directions are observed. 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

Mallow (Lavatrra) (tliateful ).—The height of llio 
Mallow to which you refer is iinubuiil, a ml is probably 
due to some local influence either of soil or posit ion, 
or both. Five feet or more is not- infrequent, ami by 
a much earlier sowing of the seeds in pots you might 
obtain a flowering proportionately early. 

Is there a climbing Calceolaria? (Grateful).— 
Wo know of no climbing Calceolaria, though such ns 
C. umplexicuuli* and C. Bnrbidgei may often be seen 
in public parks in England 4 fed or 5 fed high and 
sometimes more, the plants having been specially 
grown for the purpose, and planted several in :i 
group to form a pyramid. In like manner many other 
plants arc* grown. 

Hyacinths failing (B. L.). Bad management 
may he the cause of the Hyacinths not doing well, 
and by this we mean the bulbs being forced into 
growth before they have had a chance to make roots. 
It is necessary that the bulbs after they are placed 
in pots should be plunged in some Cocoa-nut-fibre or 
other material out-of-doors; under these conditions 
roots push out freely. 

India rubber-plants in a room (II. E. It.).— 
These plants are very suitable for room decoration, 
but at this season of the year they must have all 
the light possible, and not be overwatered. It should 
he borne in mind that no plants—not even the most 
long-suffering—will continue in health in u room 
where much gas is burned. Place the plants in the 
lightest position in the room during the day, and 
move them at night, if possible, to a room where no 
gas is burned. In coid, frosty weather move them 
from the window at night. 

Euphorbia splendens (Mrs. B. M. Hickley).— 
This is the name of the plant of which you send a 
flowering shoot. It is a stove plant, but it will livo 
through the winter in a warm greenhouse, if the roots 
are kept dry from the middle of November to the end 
of February. The plant will, however, grow much 
faster in a higher temperature. It does not require 
much room or much water in the winter season. 
Good fibrous loam three parts aud one part sandy 
peat is a suitable compost for it, and it must have 
plenty of drainage. 

Uses of Cocoa nut-fibre (G. L .).—This is useful 
for many gardening purposes, but especially for 
mulching plants in summer, to cheek drought, and to 
place round plants in winter as a protection from 
frost. It also is useful to make plunging beds in 
propagating-pits and cases, and for striking cuttings 
of such things as Dracaenas, Ficus elastiea, Crotons. 
Roses, etc. There is a difference of opinion as to its 
value for potting, but when used in small quantities, 
wo have found it useful for Ferns and a few other 
plants which like to grow in an clastic bed. 

Browallia (Streptosolcn) Jaxnesoni (Mrs. It. M. 
llickley ).—This is the name of the plant flowers of 
which you send. It is a valuable plant for the cool 
greenhouse, as the clusters of rich reddisli-orauge 
flowers are borne in great profusion, and that, too, 
through a considerable portion of the season. It 
should do well with you in Devon during the summer, 
large plants plunged in the beds being very effective. 
Wc have seen it used at Hampton Court in this way. 
It can be .struck from cuttings as easily as a Fuchsia, 
and is very useful for training to a pillar in the 
greenhouse. You will find an article on Pancratium 
speciosiuu in our issue of November 17th, 1900, p. 528. 

Plants for border (Grateful). We are not quite 
sure whether you desire a border chiefly of biennials 
and annuals or these in conjunction with the more 
showy perennials. If the latter, there are many 
things that you might add with advantage, ami u 
border of the size you name is worth planting in a 
thorough manner. In addition to the scarlet Lupins, 
we think von might arrange groups of L. subcarnosus 
(rich blue) together with Hartwegi (blue and white) 
and the deep azure-blue form. Then ill L. poly- 
phyllus alhus and L. p. roscus you will find a further 
set of perennial kinds invaluable for the border and 
for cutting. Gaillardias (annual and others) are not 
in your list, aud then are few things more service¬ 
able. Antirrhiniums, Marigolds. Nemesia in mallv 
colours, the inimitable blue of Miss Jekyll’s Nigella, 
Dianthus Heddewegi, and the beautiful annual Pop 
pies are other things of importance and value. The 
Sweet Sultans in many delightful shades of colour- 
white, vellow-. mauve, cream*, etc. — are indispensable 
for cutting oi in the border, and by making un. early 
-owing in pots and a >e»-oiul sowing in iho op«-n air 




628 


GAR.DEATING ILLUSTRATED. 


January 18, 1908 


you might obtain a long season of flowering. Stocks 
and Asters are both omitted from your list, and the 
rose-coloured Rocket Larkspur is a beautiful plant, 
S feet high or so. The entire race of annual Chrys¬ 
anthemums Bhould afford much useful material for 
your purpose, and we single out such as Morning Star, 
Evening Star, carinatum, Burridgeanum, together 
with the double varieties of coronatum and Dun- 
nettl. All of these are free-flowering and useful in 
the cut state, and there are many more. As you are 
contemplating the planting of Gladioli, we might sug¬ 
gest the free use of Galtonia candieans and Lilium 
tigrinum by reason of their showy character in the 
autumn. 

Plants for oblong beds (Mrs. Allison).—What 
would prove the most useful companion plants in a 
series of beds would depend not a little upon the size 
of the latter, and, apparently, the beds—of which you 
do not furnish the size—arc not large. The follow¬ 
ing, however, may be taken as examples: Crimson 
Paeony (P. oflleinalis fl.-pl.) and Lilium candiduni 
(June and July); White Pseony, such as Festiva 
maxima, ;uid Lilium tigrinum (July and September); 
Pseonia Mine. Calot and Galtonia candieans (July and 
September); Anemone blanda arid Anemone japonica 
alba (March and August): Anemone japonica Queen 
Charlotte andChionodoxaLuciliw(March and August): 
Narcissus Sir Watkin and Aster Amellus (April and 
August): Fritillaria imperials and Heuchera «an- 
guiuea (March, April, and July); Narcissus Burri 
conspicuus and Chelonc barbata (April, June, and 
August); Narcissus Emperor and Aster cordifolius 
(April, October): Lilium croceuin and Tiarella cordi- 
folla (May and July); Saxifraga (Megasea) cordi- 
folia purpurea and Lilium speciosum rubrum (May. 
September): Narcissus Horslleldi aud Aster aeris 
(April, October); Crimson Clove Carnation and Lilium 
Martagon (July and September); Campanula pyra- 
midalis and Narcissus Empress (April and September). 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 

Arbutus Unedo (L. Barron).—This is the name of 
tlie plant fruiting sprays of which you send us. All 
round most of our sea coasts—in sheltered places, at 
least, and in good soil—the Arbutus does well, and we 
have no doubt that in your district (which we know 
well), if given as warm and favourable a position as 
you can, you will find it succeed. All the varieties of 
Arbutus thrive best, m a deep, light loam, and do 
much better on chalky soils than many other ever¬ 
green shrubs. In the South and West of England and 
in the South of Ireland the Strawbcrry-like fruits arc 
freely borne, and a large specimen is very handsome 
in fruit. 


Raising Hollies from seed (Jeanne).—When 
Hollies are to be raised in large quantities from seed 
the berries are gathered in winter when ripe, mixed 
with double their bulk of dry sand, and turned over 
every month, which considerably hastens the decom¬ 
position of the fleshy portion. The seeds are thus pre- 
rerved in a heap in a shady spot out-of-doors till the 
following autumn, when they are sown in a border of 
light, rich soil, covered about a quarter of an inch 
deep, and a few Spruce boughs laid over the bed till 
the young plants make their appearance, which will 
not be till May, and only then a few of the earliest, 
as a succession will bo kept up till the following 
spring. They must then be left till the next autumn 
before they are transplanted. You will thus see that 
the progress of the Holly during its earlier stages is 
••low. In the case of small quantities of seeds, the 
berries may be mixed with sand in a flower-pot and 
buried in the soil till the autumn, when they can be 
sown in pans or boxes and placed in an ordinary 
garden frame. 

FRUIT. 


Cutting down Vines (.4 Beginner). — We should 
advise you to cut the rods back to a strong eye or to 
the lowest point. By cutting the rods down in this 
way you lay a much better foundation for the future. 
If the rods are fully exposed to the sun right down 
to the ground wo should not hesitate to cut- them 
down to within 3 inches or 4 inches of the bottom. 
If the front of your house is a wall, then cut the 
rods down at from two to three eyes above the level 
of the wall plate. No matter what the strength of 
the plant may be, the lower it is cut down the 
stronger it will grow and the better foundation it 
will make for the future. A very good rule is to 
prune, say. to the lowest point, when the foliage pro¬ 
duced can have the full benefit of light and air. 


Vines (Notice).—From what you say. we fear you 
have pruned your Vines too close-in fact, you seem 
to have cut off the spurs entirely. You ought to 
have left at least two eyes on the spur, and then, 
"hen you saw which eye produced the stronger 
bunch, it would have been easy to rub out the weaker 
one, which would have strengthened the one left. 
You do not say what your Vine is. but we conclude it 
is Black Hamburgh. Some Vines require to be what 
is called “ long pruned "—that is to say, the spurs 
have to be left leng in order to get the best bunches, 
but this does not apply, we fancy, in your case. It 
i.s always advisable to have young rods, and when the 
spurs get too long out this rod right out,‘having the 
previous year started a young rod from the bottom 
to take its place. 


Canker in Apple-trees (Loher ).—The portion of 
Apple-tree stem sent shows on it a very bad example 
of canker. If the trees are not too large or old you 
might try what completely lifting them will do, trim¬ 
ming off neatly the ends of all severed roots, grubbing 
under the tree and severing all downward roots, as 
these arc very likely to be the cause of the trouble, 
then replanting, adding some entirely fresh soil, with 
which should be mixed wood-ashes, soot, and old 
mortar rubbish, and a couple of pounds of basic slag. 
Replanting should he rather shallow, and on a slight 
mound, putting over the roots, when covered with 
soil, a mulch of long manure till tho end of April 
then removing it during May to admit sun warmth 
Put on a fresh mulch jj^Xpne for the summer, giving 
occasional liberal w.^ering^You jdignid^lso pare 
<low U quite close all clnksttvJlmgsOAfcaint them 
over with a compouudSMbfl-foap, ttf&^iTrphur, ar 


paraffin, to which just enough boiling water is added 
to make a thick paste. Coat over each cankered part 
thoroughly, and again, if needed, later, also any small 
bruises in the bark visible. Some varieties of Apples 
arc much more subject to canker than are others. 
Evidently the soil is in want of drainage, the roots 
having gone down into a cold, water-logged soil. 

VEGETABLES. 

Carrots cracking (Ewer).—The cracking of Car¬ 
rots is not uncommon, especially in early sowings. 
The cause is usually a stoppage of swelling in dry 
weather, then renewed moisture causes rapid swelling 
of the roots, which very often burst in the process. 
Wireworm has nothing to do with the splitting, but 
these pests often bo,re holes in them, and also often 
eat the roots clean through when small. Perhaps you 
sow too early. 

Tomatoes for exhibition. -Of good exhibition 
Tomatoes, very fine are Dobbie's Champion, Comet, 
Sutton's Princess of Wales, Chemin Rouge, and Pole- 
gate. These are all flue, handsome fruiters, and 
heavy croppers. No doubt, you find the fruit-s of Sun¬ 
rise rather too small for your purpose. When the 
finest, handsomest fruits are getting coloured, gather 
them before the skins become soft, as that saves them 
from cracking. In about ten days or less, if put into 
a shallow box and covered up, the fruits colour well, 
and ure firm and sound. 


SHORT REPLIES. 

Amateur.—No; to raise such plants as you refer to 
you must have a healed house and be able to keep up a 

temperature of not. less than 60 degs.-//. Harwell. 

—A tarpaulin would, perhaps, be the best, but. the 
ordinary Archangel mats will answer the same pur¬ 
pose. Sew together as many as you want to cover 
the house, and so fasten them down on the roof that 

they may be taken olf easily in the morning.- 

Willgon.— See article on "Cordon Pears," in the 
present issue, p. 615.- M. L. IF.—It is quite impos¬ 

sible to advise you as to the laying out of your dell 
without seeing the place. Your best plan will be to 
consult some practical man in your neighbourhood. 

- R. Queen.— Any horticultural stindriesmnn could 

procure for you the supports you innuire about.- 

Three Questions.—The clay should be puddled in 
below the level of the bottom of the pond, first clear¬ 
ing out the natural soil and putting in not less than 
1 foot width of clay. In the case of your Carna¬ 
tions, It is very likely that wireworm has been the 

cause of the failure.- j\. Dunham.— Ask for the 

plant under the name of Arutido conspicua. Any 

hardy-plant nurseryman will get it for you.- Jack. 

—Yes: you can cut up the Begonia bulbs, but by far 
the best way will be to raise a stock from seed, which 
should be sown as soon as you can. If given good 
treatment, such seedlings will bloom during the 
summer. __ 

NAMES OP PLANTS AND FRUITS. 

Names of plants — L. Barron.—The Strawberry- 
tree (Arbutus Unedo).- Mrs. Fulmer. — The Alexan¬ 
drian Laurel (Ruseus racemosus).- G. M. Gardner. 

— 1. Davallia Moorcana: ‘2, Ptcria cretica: 3. Pterin 

semi lata cristata.- Mrs. R. M. Hickley.— 1, Red 

flower. Euphorbia splendens; 2. Yellow flower, Strep- 
to&olen (Browallia) Jamesoni; 3, See article on Pan¬ 
cratium illyricum, in our issue of January 11th, p. 614. 

Name of fruit.— Mrs. Palmer.— The Pear is prob¬ 
ably Beurr6 Clairgeau, in season during November. 
It will not keep till the present time. 


Catalogues received. — W. Atlee Burpee and Co., 

Philadelphia.— Farm Annual for 100S. -Little and 

Bullantyne. Carlisle .—Garden Seeds for 1908. - 

Daniels Bros.. Ltd., Norwich. — Illustrated Guide for 
Amateur Gardeners. -Geo. Massey and Sons, Spald¬ 

ing.— Catalogue for 1908. 


Bees’ Seed Potatoes 
are grown in 
Ireland Expressly for 
Seed Purposes. 

They are therefore much superior to the ordinary lulicr for 
Seed purposes. Irish-grown Seed Potatoes produce far 
heavier crops than Scotch or English-grown Seeds. 

Prices are much lower than is usual for the ordinary Seed 
tulier. All goods sent cn approval for Cash. Orders booked 
now for delivery at any time suitable to clients, delivery 
begins end of January weather permitting. Note specimen 


prices—for full list see 

Catalogue No. 

14. 

post free on 

application. 

n ib. 

28 1b 

561b. 

1 cwt. 

9710 Myatt’s Ashleaf 

2/- 

36 

e<6 

124J 

9718 British Queen 

13 

23 

4,- 

7/6 

9728 Windsor Castle 

1/10 

33 

6,- 

11/- 

9738 Duchess of Cornwall .. 15 

2.5 

4,6 

8,6 

9742 Factor .. 

13 

23 

4 - 

7/6 

9756 Up-to-Date .. 

1,3 

2 3 

4.- 

7,6 


Bees, Ltd., 6, Wapping Buildings, Liverpool. 

QLADIOLL —Beautiful vara, for exhibition/ 
bedding, cutting. My well known strain of seedlings, 
2a. 3d, do/. ; 16s. 100, car. paid. Collections from 3s. to 20s 
G. brenchleyensis, grand scarlet. 4s. and 6s. 100. All for 
cash with order List now ready. W. C BULL 95 
EUington-road, Ramsgate. 


Burpee’s 

Seeds Grow! 

AND THE 

BURPEE BUSINESS GROWS! 

Last year (our 31st) we sold more 
seeds than ever before in any one 
year, and in 1908 we shall sell even 
more. You will understand “ the 
reason why ” when you read 

Burpee’s New 
Farm Annual 
for 1608 . 

Thin complete hook, bound 
in lithographed covers and 
containing also six BUperb 
coloured plates painted from 
nature, is Yours for the 
asking provided you have a 
garden and will mention 
where you saw this advertise¬ 
ment. It is an elegant hook—the heat Seed Catalogue 
we have yet issued—and offers some most remarkable 
" Nkw Creations" in Vegetables and Flowers, 
which can be obtained only direct from u.*. Many & 
winter's evening can be spent profitably in planning 
your garden by a careful study of this book. Shall we 
send you a copy? If you appreciate Quality in Stats, 
you will say Yes ! 

If so, write to-day -do not put off and possibly 
forget until il is Loo lute*! 

W. ATLEE BURPEE & CO., 

The Largest Mail-Order Seed House, 

BURPEE BUILDINC, PHILADELPHIA. 



CELEBKATIID 

IRISH ROSES. 

Exceptionally hardy and suited to 
any locality. 

Catalogue, containing Coloured Piute eg' New Gold Medal 
Root Mrs. Stewart Clark, free on application to 

HUCH DICKSON, BELFAST. 

250 ACRES TO SELECT FROM. 

Trees, Shrubs, Oonlfsrs, Rhododendrons, 
Heaths, Azaleas, Fruit Trees, and Roses, 
in First-Class Variety. 

Our Stock is the Cheapest and Hardiest in the Trade 
Catalogues Gratis on Application. 

ISAAC MATTHEWS & SONS, Ltd., 

Nurserymen, HILTON. STOKE-ON-TRENT. 


Gardening Advice. 

What, is the value to you of the advice 
of 27 of the beat-known practical gar¬ 
deners of to-day : 

This is what the up-to-date 

> THOMPSON’S 

Gardeners’ Assistant 

offers you. M n. Willi a m Watson, who 
edits the work, iH Curator of tho world- 
famous Kow Gardena, and all the other 
contributors are specialists in the sub¬ 
jects on which they write. 

Think of it! A six-volume, fully illus¬ 
trated work which covers all operations 
in Kitchen and Flower Garden, Orchard 
aud Glass-houses, is sent you. carriage 
paid, on receipt of 4s. The balance of net 
price (48s.) is then remitted by similar 
sums sent monthly. It is ouly Is. a weekl 

SEND TO-DAY. 

Illustrated Prospectus free. 

THE CRESHAM PUBLISHING CD., 

135, Southampton Street, 
Strand, London, W.C. 


The latest das for receiving Advertisements 

’ ' ia ntlBAY, 6 lum. 




GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


No. 1,507.—Yoij. 


XXIX. 


Founded by W. liobinnon. Author of “ The Enyluth Fltiioer Garden/’ 


JANUARY 25, 1908. 


INDEX. 


Artichoke, the Chiueea 
Auriculas, seedling, 
flowering 
Azalea indie* .. 
Azaleas, Indian.. 

Bean, Runner, Prize¬ 
winner .. 

Beaus, green long-pod 
Beans, three good dwarf 
French .. 

licet, pcr{>etual, or Spin¬ 
ach . 

Begonias dropping their 

flowers. 

Black Currant mite 
Calceolaria Burbidgei.. 

Camellias. 

Carnation Winsor 
Carrot, blood-red 
Caustic alkali solution 


640 Celery diseased .. 

Celery running to seed 
G34 Chrysanthemums 
631 Chrysanthemums at 
633 showB, groups of 

( Chrysanthemums: natu- 
630 rally-grown plants .. 

630 Cinerarias failing 
Conservatory 
630 Crassula laetca . . 

Fern, a Shield, distinct 

630 Penis . 

Pig-tree, treatment of 

G33 Flowers, in I lacking 
610 Forcing-houro 
633 Kota, County Cork 

631 Fmit . 

633 Fruit-buds, birds and .. 
630 Fruit ganlen 

610 Garden work 


630 Garden diary, extracts 
630 from a .. .. .. 639 

632 Gardeners, women us .. 629 
Gardening, County 

632 | Council.035 

| Greenhouse roof, beauty 

632 on the.634 

610 llabrothamnus, cutting 

638 down .610 

633 | Heliotropes .. 636 

637 Hotbed, the amateur s 636 
637 1 Indoor plants .. .. 633 

633 : Juniper Saxifrage, the 

637 | (Saxifraga junipurina) 636 

6)38 Lawn - tennis - court, 

635 making a .. .. 636 

638 Leeks bolting <530 

638 Lygodium juponicum .. 610 

639 Muurundya Barelayana *540 

638 ! Montbretias .. 636 


Moon-flower (Ipunuea 
bnna-nox), the.. .. 633 

Onions for market .. 640 
Ofchard-liouse .. 638 

Outdoor garden .. .. 639 

Outdoor plants .. .. 635 

Paioniea, feeding .. 610 
Pears, cordon .. .. 638 

Pears, stewing .. .. 633 

Pelargoniums, old Ivy¬ 
leaved .636 

PentBtemons from seed 610 
Plants and flowers .. 631 
Plants for iioor soil .. 636 
Plants in the house .. 639 
Primroses in frames .. 633 
Primula Kewensis, in¬ 
creasing.631 

Proiiagating-houso .. 639 
Room ami window .. 637 


Ko3e-bushes, growths 

upon .631 

Rose Marcehal Kiel 
under glass .. .. 631 

Rose Oberhofgartner A. 

Singer .. .. .. 632 

Rose Waltham Rambler 631 

Roses .631 

Roses, Climbing, prun¬ 
ing at time of planting 610 
Rosen for wall of 

church.632 

Roses, labelling .. .. 632 

Roses on old trees .. 632 
Roses, pruning Hybrid 
Perpetual .. .. 632 

Royal Horticultural So¬ 
ciety .639 

Seakale for small 
growers. 629 i 


Solanums.634 

Tomatoes, early.. .. 639 

Tonk s manure .. .. 632 

Trees, shrubs, ami vege 
tables for elevated 

position.640 

Toilers in baskets 634 

Vegetable garden .. 639 

Vegetables .. .. 629 

Verbena, Sweet-scented 
(Aloysia citriodora), 
propagating the .. 640 
Wallflowers—tho survi¬ 
val of the fittest .. 636 
Water-plants in porce¬ 
lain sink, growing .. 610 
Weeds, droppings of 
fowls and .. 610 

Week's work, tho 
coming.C39 


WOMEN AS GARDENERS. 

The Times has published two articles on ' 
“Women as Gardeners,” encouraging the 
harmful idea that women should take up the 
work of gardeners. In any but the narrowest 
sense of florists and managers of their own 
small gardens for market or other purposes, 
women are wholly unfitted for tho work 
of the practical gardener. I have had a 
large experience of garden work for many 
years, ami know that for many labours in 
gardens women are wholly incapable, no mat¬ 
ter what their training. I am now forming 
a flower border, and below it I find I have to 
move a foot deep of ehaly clay. To move 
this at all and get it out of the way is work 
that can only be done by strong men — 
navvies, in fact—and there are numbers of 
labours of this sort continually going on in 
gardens, sueli as walk-making, drainage, etc., 
in all sorts of bad weather, which strong men 
do not mind. This hard work goes on often 
from October to April, and from daybreak to 
dark in winter. Some labours are lighter, 
but even these require the strength of men. 
Even such lighter work as the planting and 
transplanting of fruit-trees demands the 
labour of strong men. Even in small gar¬ 
dens the need for these heavy labours occurs, 
and in large gardens it is constant. It is all 
very well to say that a woman managing a 
garden can get this sort of labour done by 
men under her, but it is not practicable at 
all for the majority of owners. Some know¬ 
ledge of gardening would, no doubt, enable a 
lady to see after her own garden better, but 
it, is only a delusion to suppose that garden¬ 
ing can be learned in colleges—one might as 
well make a sailor in a college. The only way 
to become a good practical gardener is to live 
in youth and early manhood in a variety of 
good gardens for not less than ten years of 
preliminary training. 

There is much to learn, and garden things 
are quite changed within a generation or so, 
demanding a fuller training than of old. 
Fruit-growing is rising in importance every 
day, and, being often very badly done, it is 
worthy of more study than ever. This, to Ikj 
rightly done, involves a good deal of awkward 
ladder w'ork, often in all weathers, and in 
pruning time, which is very ill-fitted for 
women; and also there is the now increasing 
pergola training of climbers, calling for 
much the same kind of labour in hard 
weather for pruning and tying. 

There is now a whole flora of beau¬ 
tiful plants from northern countries which 
must also be known to a good gardener, 
and their cultivation, too. Trees and 
shrubs of the northern world are now a 
very great addition, which a good gardener 
ought to know' well. Not only the strength of 
men is wanted for garden work, but the 
patience, steadiness, and endurance which 
the whole art demands, and which, consider¬ 
ing women’s duties and conditions of life, few 
women could give. 

It is to bo wished that the energetic ladies 

Digitized by GOOQlC 


who get up these “colleges” would turn their 
attention to work which is more fitting for 
women than gardening, full as that is of hard, 
open-air-work in many ways. For example, 
in France we see women much employed in 
railway stations distributing tickets, a light 
employment which they seem to manage very 
well, and there are many other, occupations 
which are well fitted for women. 

Observer. 

VEGETABLES. 

SEAKALE FOR SMALL GROWERS. 
Many possessed of gardens are desirous 
of growing tlieir own Seakale, yet arc 
deterred from so doing by the thought that it 
is difficult to cultivate, and still more so to 
force, in order to obtain the blanched 
growths seen at exhibitions aud in green¬ 
grocers’ shops in the winter and spring 
months. That it is an easy plant to culti¬ 
vate, and that the forcing of the crowns pre¬ 
sents no very great difficulties, is w r ell known 
to numbers of the readers of Gardening 
Illustrated. There are, however, many 
who lack the necessary knowledge, and who 
would be glad of a few plain cultural in¬ 
structions as to the cultivation and forcing 
of Seakale, and it is for their guidance the 
following notes are written. 

Preparation of the soil. —If a suitable 
plot of ground is not available, one should 
be prepared forthwith, so that the soil shall 
be in the right condition for planting not 
later than the middle of March. The plot 
for this crop should bo quite open and free 
from shade, and tho soil rich and double- 
dug, for Seakale must have a liberally- 
manured and deeply-stirred medium. For 
Seakale. tho soil can hardly be too well 
enriched, for the stronger and more vigor¬ 
ous is the root growth, the more robust will 
the crowns be by the time growth is com¬ 
pleted. Therefore do nob hesitate to mix 
plenty of it both with the top and bottom 
spits, and with regard to the latter, should it 
be of a quality inferior to that on the sur¬ 
face, fork it up and leave it at the bottom. 

Planting. —The best time for planting is 
in March, preferably in the second or third 
woek, should weather conditions allow. The 
sets are best planted in rows— i.e., if the 
roots are to be lifted and forced elsewhere. 
To this end the rows should stand 2 feet 
apart, and the sets 18 inches distant from 
each other. If the plants arc to be forced 
where grow n, the rows must be 4 feet apart, 
allowing the same distance between the 
plants, which, in this.case, should be planted 
in groups. Each group should consist of 
three sets, planted Hi tho form of a trianglo, 
9 inches to 1 foot distant from each other. 
This will allow ample space in which to place 
the fermerrting material round and over the 
pots when the latter are placed over the 
crowns ready for forcing, or when the pro¬ 
duce is not required till the end of March or 
later, soil or fine ashes will take the place of 
dung and leaves. The planting of the small 


and medium-sized sets is best done with a 
dibber, and old, cut-back crowns with a 
trowel. Plant so that the top of each set 
is level with the surface of tho ground, and 
as each row is completed, place a double 
handful of ashes over the tops of the sets 
for the twofold purpose of preventing injury 
from frost, and slugs from feeding on the 
young growths when they push forth. 

Propagation. —This is effected by making 
into cuttings tho pieces of roots which are 
found attached to the base of each plant 
when lifting takes place. These roots are 
usually broken off purposely, and laid on 
one side in soil, to be made into cuttings at 
some convenient opportunity during tho 
winter or early spring months. Give the 
strongest of the roots the preference for 
cutting-making, each one of which should 
be 0 inches to 7 inches long, and cut the 
top straight across and the bottom in a 
sloping direction, as a guide at planting¬ 
time. Then bury all in soil or ashes, under 
a hedge or north wall, till planting-tiino 
arrives. When stock is short, the smaller 
pieces of roots may be utilised for cuttings, 
but these will not make strong crowns the 
first season. Crowns which have been forced 
may, after having tho tops cut smooth, and 
denuded of side-roots, leaving what looks 
like a bare stem, but in reality the root, may 
also be used. Another method of increasing 
stock is to sow seed, but, unless cultivation 
is of the highest order, the plants require 
two seasons before good crowns arc avail¬ 
able. Beginners will most likely have to 
purchase roots to make a commencement 
with, but these can be obtained from most 
nurserymen, and arc styled planting sets. 

After-treatment. —This will consist in 
thinning the young shoots down to one on 
medium and small-sized sets, and to two on 
the stronger and older and fresh planted 
crowns' Three mav he left on the sets 
planted in groups the second year after 
planting, because, being permanent occu¬ 
pants of the ground for several years to 
come, they will eventually become very 
vigorous. The reduction of the growths can 
bo effected so soon as they are strong enough 
to discriminate which are tho strongest. 
The soil should be kept constantly stirred 
and clear of weeds throughout the growing 
season, and, to encourage strong growth, 
afford ample supplies of diluted liquid 
manure in hot, dry weather, or give repeated 
applications of artificial manure between the 
rows, and wash them in with clear water. 
Nitrate of soda, guano, and fish guano are all 
good stimulants for Seakale. Apply on 
the little-and-often principle rather than in 
heavy doses at less frequent intervals, and, 
unless showery or wet weather prevails, do 
not hesitate to water freely. When growth 
is completed, the leaves turn yellow, ami 
drop off after the first sharp frost. When 
the crow'ns are required for very early forcing, 
growers do not wait until the foliage is quite 
ripe, but lift the roots, and let them lie on 
the surface of the ground, so as to hasten tho 

u ri gi i 

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630 


GARDENING ILL U ST RATED. 


Janpajiy 25, 1908 


ripening of the crowns. In an ordinary wav. 
lifting docs not take place until the leaves 
are off, when, after removing the thong-like 
pieces of roots for making into acts for 
another year, they are bedded- in close to¬ 
gether in some convenient spot, from where 
they are taken as required for forcing. 

Forcing the crowns.— This may he done 
in a variety of ways, such as in heated green¬ 
houses, in the Mushroom-house, in a frame 
set on a hotbed, in a warm cellar, or, as has 
already been mentioned, on the ground 
where grown. Except in the lust ease, 
the crowns may be planted thickly to¬ 
gether—say, 5 inches apart—either in pots or 
boxes, and covered with inverted pots or 
boxes to exclude light, this latter detail being 
very essential if perfectly blanched growths 
are wished for. The necessary temperature 
for forcing Seakale is 60 degs. to 60 degs., 
and it should never exceed the latter figure, 
or the growth will become drawn and 
attenuated. -Water with tepid water at the 
start, and as required afterwards, which 
will not be often, except, it may be. when 
the forcing is conducted in the Mushroom- 
house. The Kale should be cut from 
7 inches to 9 inches in length, and as soon 
as one pot or box is cleared, fill with fresh 
crowns, if a continuous supply is needed. 
With regard to frame culture, boxes or pots 
are the best means to employ in which to 
plant the crowns, unless a large quantity of 
Kale is required at one time, in which ease 
place 9 inches of friable soil on the hotbed, 
and plant the crowns in it, 9 inches apart. 
Care must also be taken to rigorously ex¬ 
clude all light in this n<s in other instances. 
Hood Kale can also be obtained in a warm 
dark cellar, and a friend of mine used to 
obtain a regular supply in this way all 
through the winter. Another person re 
marked recently that he had his Kale ready 
for Christmas Day, and this he accomplished 
by constructing a box large enough to accom¬ 
modate several relays of crowns against the 
house wall where the kitchener is fixed. By 
dint of keeping the box well covered down, 
he obtains sufficient warmth to obtain a re¬ 
gular and good supply: and these two cases 
arc quoted merely to show what can be done 
by the exercise of a little forethought and 
ingenuity. The material for forcing ground 
plants should consist largely of leaves, or 
two thirds leaves and one of stable litter. 
This should he thrown together and allowed 
to ferment for ten days before placing it 
round the pots, and even then the covers 
of the pots are best left tilted or, say, open 
for a few days, to allow steam to escape, 
and avert danger of scalding the crowns. 
When the produce in this case is fit for cut¬ 
ting. m^ke the cuts level with the ground, 
and cover with ashes when removing the pots 
to place over other crowns. When forcing 
has to he conducted where the plants are 
grown, the only preliminaries are to remove 
the dead leaves and place the pots over ns 
many of the orow-ns as will afford enough 
Kale for requirements at one time. The 
best time to cover the crowns with fine soil 
or ashes is in the beginning of January and 
the middle of February, and this will ensure 
a regular supply. Pots are not absolutely 
necessary in this case, as the growths can 
always he washed clean by rinsing them in 
water. G. P. 

THREE GOOD DWARF FRENCH 
BEANS. 

Those not having the convenience for grow¬ 
ing early crops of French Beans under glass 
are naturally anxious to obtain them as early 
as they can outdoors. To this end a point is 
made of sowing the seed as early ns the cli¬ 
matic conditions of each particular locality 
will permit, as a matter of course choosing 
for the purpose a-s warm and sheltered a posi¬ 
tion as the garden can afford. The next, 
thing is to select a variety which has the good 
properties of not only being early, but which 
will yield a plentiful supply of pods, which 
must be of good quality and flavour when 
cooked. Of these early varieties there are 
now many to select from, but the one to 
which I should like to draw attention is 
named Plentiful. This I have grown for first 
crop for several seasons past, and find 
it to be all one ca n, , w ish for, ax regards 

Digitized by GOOglC 


oarliness, productiveness, and quality and 
flavour. The pods are of good length, fair 
width, and, for a first early, remain in good 
condition some little time. The pods are 
also of good colour and stringless, a fact 
much appreciated in the kitchen. The plants 
grow’ about 18 inches in height, and branch 
well. 

The second variety to be recommended is 
of dwarfer habit, is equally as productive, 
but not quite so early, and therefore forms 
a good successional kind to grow where 
French Beans are in request. This is named 
the Dwarf Sugar Bean, and produces long, 
almost round-shaped puds, pale green in 
colour, and, like the foregoing, stringless. 
On a good holding soil the pods remain crisp 
for some considerable time, and when cooked 
have a delicate and distinct flavour. On ac¬ 
count of its productiveness, this should prove 
an ideal variety for cottagers and other pos¬ 
sessors of small gardens to grow until the 
Scarlet Runners commence to fruit. 

The third sort to be mentioned is a main 
crop variety named Perfection. In shape 
the pods of this are rounded like those of tne 
Sugar Bean. They arc of good substance ^ 
and stringless, and preserve their crispness 
for a considerable time. The plants, if well 
thinned out when properly through the 
ground, ultimately attain a height of 
18 inches to 2 feet, branching well, and 
being extremely productive. Considering 
that it is stringless, and, further, is of first- 
rate quality when cooked, this can be re¬ 
commended as being one of tlie best varieties 
for main crop purposes that can be grown. 
No one, of course, cares to limit himself to 
one or more particular varieties; all the 
same, given the three named above, there 
would be no difficulty in securing a regular 
supply from early summer till as late in 
autumn as weather conditions allow. 

__G. P. K. 

NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Creen Long-pod Beans.— It is only within 
recent years that attention has been paid to 
the introduction of green Long-pod Beans, 
although they have been cultivated for many 
yours. Beck’s Dwarf Green Gera is a very 
old variety. No doubt exists in the minds of 
consumers as to the superiority of the green 
over the white-seeded Bean, but while this 
appeals to the palates of many very strongly, 
others are not concerned about these points. 
Similarly, there are growers who stand by 
the Broad Windsor as being infinitely the 
best, ignoring altogether the superiority of 
the Long-pod. To the exhibitor the first at 
traction is length of pod, combined with even¬ 
ness of outline. There arc now selections 
of each section of Broad Beans, so that the 
tastes of everyone are provided for. Beside 
Beck’s, we have Nonpareil, Windsor, and 
Green Long pod. Superior strains are found 
in Harlington Windsor and Carter’s Green 
Leviathan, a very fine stock for exhibition. 

I have not found that one possesses any supe¬ 
riority over the other in point of hardiness, 
hut when curliness is in question, the Giant 
Seville is my favourite for autumn sowing, 
and Extra Early (Carter) for spring.—W. S. 

Runner Bean Prizewinner.- As with pro¬ 
fessional gardeners, so with cottagers and 
amateurs, this variety of Scarlet Runner is 
usually selected as the one to grow for ex¬ 
hibition, and the number of prizes which 
have been won with it throughout the country 
must be marvellous. It is also largely grown 
by gardeners and others for private consump¬ 
tion, and in my opinion there is no other 
variety to equal it for general utility. Last 
year 1 had several rows, the total length of 
which would be about 160 feet, and the quan¬ 
tity of Beans yielded was enormous. It is 
not only that it is a heavy cropper, but the 
individual pods are of such a length, so suc¬ 
culent, and—best test of all—so toothsome 
and highly flavoured when cooked. This 
variety should be included when making out 
the list of seeds for this season’s require¬ 
ments bv those who have not yet grown it, 
and those who have profited by previous ex¬ 
perience will not omit doing so.—A. W. 

Leeks bolting. —Often complaint is laid 
against the se-d when bolting is common. 
Leeks, as a rule, do not, however, give much 
trouble. As 1 have already said, the seed 


stock, by common consent,, would have been 
blamed did I not know that the seeds were 
the best that could be bought, and the repu¬ 
tation of the seedsmen beyond suspicion. 
Other reasons must bo sought for to account 
for this failing, and which, I think, will be 
found in the untoward nature of the season 
of 1907. Both the early and main crop sow¬ 
ings bolted, those sown in boxes in the early 
months of the year showing many flower- 
heads. Had only these early-sown plants 
thus failed, one might have assumed (hat the 
seeds were sown too soon ; but when the samo 
failing occurs in plants from mi open-air 
sowing made in the month of March, then 
other reasons must be sought for. Not in one 
kind only, nor in seed obtained from one 
seedsman, but in seed from at least three 
sources this has happened. Contrary to ex¬ 
pectation, no complaint is heard from the 
kitchen as to the expected toughness of the 
bolters.—W. S., 11’t7/*. 

Perpetual or Spinach Beet.— The value of 
this as a winter vegetable has been exempli¬ 
fied during the past few weeks, when, owing 
to the bitter north-easterlv winds and frost, 
the true or Winter Spinach is all crumpled 
up and unfit for use. With a matter of a 
couple of dozen rows of the above to piek 
from, each row being about 15 yards in 
length, an almost daily demand has been met, 
and that without diminishing the supply to 
any appreciable extent. Should the present 
cold and frosty weather continue, there will 
be quantities of leaves available for gathering 
for some weeks to come. The plant is so 
hardy that frost, makes little impression on 
the leaves, and it is a matter for surprise 
that it is not more largely grown bv all who 
have a partiality for Spinach for winter use. 
In reality, it is a substitute for real Spinach, 
it being a variety of Beet yielding an edible 
leaf; but when cooked and served at table it 
so closely resembles the genuine article that 
many would fail to detect the difference. In 
any case, it is a most wholesome article of 
diet, and affords variety at a season when 
choice vegetables are none too pleutlful, ami 
particularly so during a spell of severe 
weather. Its cultural requirements are 
simple in the extreme. All that is necessary 
in order to obtain a good winter supply is 
to sow the seed about the end of July and 
again the second week in August or there¬ 
abouts, in drills drawn 1 foot apart on a 
piece of ground which was well manured for 
the previous crop. If not in good heart, ami 
well-rotted manure plentiful, the plot should 
be well dressed with the manure, and dug 
a week or so prior to sowing the seed. When 
largo enough, thin the young plants, 80 that 
they stand from 9 inches to 12 inches apart, 
and keep the soil well stirred between the 
plants and rows. Growth will then be vigor¬ 
ous, and the plants become fully grown ere 
winter sets in, and from which any quantity 
of leaves can be gathered as often as desired. 

If ten or a dozen drills are sown in the 5 
second week in September, the resulting 
plants will yield an abundant supply of leaves 
for early spring use.—A. W. 

Celery diseased. — It appears to me that 
“Devonian's” Celery lias suffered in the same way 
as mine and that of some of my neighbours during 
the last two seasons. Last year tny Celery was 
attacked by a fungus in the form of small black 
spots, which quickly enlarged, and ultimately the 
h aves were entirely destroyed and the Celery rendered 
useless. This scasop the plants were attacked by the 
maggot, but not seriously, and ns the fungus came on 
later thau it did last year, it has not done so much 
damage. Can the Celery be sprayed with anything 
to kill the fungus?— Bristol. 

Celery running to seed <American BUfjhtl If 
very early sown and planted, Celery invariably bulls. 

If seed be sown about May, always soon enough for 
all ordinary purposes, then it does not bolt. Still, a 
great deal depends on Imw the young plants are 
treated, as, if allowed to become thick, starved, ami 
weak in the pots or pans, the plants will oft mi bolt 
away early. You cannot well have the ground too 
rich for Celery, us it is a gross feeding plant. 

Blood-red Carrot. -This Carrot, when cooked, has 
great value, as there Is a marked tenderness of root- 
on absence of the hard core which is prominent in 
some Carrots, and the colour is unifoim througnom- 
Whatever its origin, it certainly Is a great gam, 
Mosers. Carter are to be congratulated as the m>r> 
ducers of this new type.—W est Wilts. 


The English Flower Garden and Homo 

ounds. —Edition, revised vnih desertp JJJJJ 
all the best plants, trees, and skryb».OiMvm 
l arrangement„ illustrated an wood. Uoth, meaiwn, 
16 s.; post free, 16 s. t id. 






URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


January 25, 1 DOS 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 


ROSES. 

ROSE WALTHAM RAMBLER. 

It seems to me that a number of the so-called 
“Rambler” Roses will soon have to be 
grouped as flowering shrubs. It is absolutely 
impossible to employ one-tenth part of the 
sorts now in commerce as pillar, arch, or 
wall Roses, and unless we can find other 
methods of growing them, many beautiful 
subjects will be lost. That they are pecu¬ 


Roi>e Waltham Rambler. 


I themselves when in w'ell worked soil, and 
| they may be allowed to grow at will for the 
1 first two or three years. Where possible, 
they should be on their own roots. Good ob¬ 
ject lessons in this style of planting may be 
seen at Kew' Gardens near the Palm-house. 

I Here thcro are immense beds of Electra, 
l Una, etc., and when in full bloom, any one 
group is worth seeing. Waltham Rambler 
makes a fine, free-headed standard, and after 
about the third year it* half-drooping growths 
| will be covered with the splendid trusses of 
blossom. All who have found any difficulty 
I in growing Crimson Rambler should give it a 
I trial as a free bush, planting it some 


liarly suitable for growing as shrubs, many 
individuals can affirm. The variety por¬ 
trayed herewith makes a splendid flowering 
shrub. When a plant attains a breadth of 
some 9 feet to 10 feet, and covered with hun- j 
dreds of sprays, such as the one depicted, I 
the effect for two or three weeks in July is 
splendid. The sprays remind one in colour of 
Apple blossom, and they have such remark¬ 
able lasting qualities, so peculiar to the 
multiflora group, that a plant such as I have | 
described is a mass of bloom for several days 
before any flowers show signs of falling. 

I have been surprised park superintendents 
have not availed themselves more of these 
multiflora Ramblers for isolating in the parks 
under their charge. TJxe^ quickly establish 

Digitized by (jQl glC 


fi feet to 8 feet apart if in groups, 
or even as an isolated bush. The wavy, foun¬ 
tain-like growths are all preserved their full 
length, so that we get clusters of blossom 
from base to summit, which bend nearly to 
the ground by reason of their own weight, 
and thus keep the centre clear for the rising 
young growths, on which our next year’s dis¬ 
play mainly depends. A few other splendid 
sorts for culture in this manner are Blush 
Rambler, Aglaia, Psyche, Helene, Leuch- 
stern, Mrs. F. W. Flight, Non Plus Ultra, 
and Gross an Tabern. Rosa. 


Growths upon Rose-bushes (E. J. IT.).—The 
growths ;ire tho«o of the Manetti-stock, and should he 
removed at once. 


MARECHAL NIEL UNDER GLASS. 

Judging from the thousands of pot-grown 
plants annually sold, there must be a lar*»e 
number of failures. The whole secret of 
success lies in healthy root action, and where 
we see a plant thoroughly vigorous, we may 
ahvays know its roots are generously cared 
for. Perhaps there have been more different 
modes of treatment advocated for this Rose 
than any other variety. Some growers allow 
the plants to grow away freely, and do not 
prune much, and others advocate hard prun¬ 
ing immediately after flowering. My conten 
I tion has been that the latter plan is only 
admissible when artificial heat can be liber¬ 
ally afforded, with plenty of mois¬ 
ture also, and for such treatment 
this w'ould necessitate a house de¬ 
voted entirely to the Rose. If, on 
the other hand, we have to grow 
the Rose, say, in a cool greenhouse, 
where the temperature is rarely 
more than 48 degs. at night, then 
it should be very sparingly pruned. 
I once saw a very fine house of this 
Rose, which yielded many thou¬ 
sands of blossoms, and I was told 
the trees—for they w f ere short stan¬ 
dards—were hard pruned every 
second year. Evidently this plan 
was a great success. I am con¬ 
vinced we need to treat this Rose 
much as one would a Vine—that is, 
give it a very generous diet. 
When established, a liberal dress¬ 
ing of bone-meal just after starl¬ 
ing. with liquid-manure at frequent 
intervals, brings success, provided 
always there Ik? abundance of 
roots. 1 prefer short standards 
rather than the long grafted plants 
usually sold. 

I remember, many years ago, 
there used to ho a fine lean-to 
house of this Rose at. Burghlev 
House. The tree was a short stan¬ 
dard, the object of this being that 
as soon as canker manifested itself, 
as it surely will sooner or later, 
soil, in the shape of turf, was 
heaped up around the thickened 
part, this part and the bark of the 
stem being previously just cut 
downwards with a sharp knife. 
This plan checked the canker. 
Two growths ran along the low'd* 
part of the roof in a horizontal 
direction, one to the right and one 
to the loft. From these two main 
growths new r shoots emerged, these 
very soon reaching the top of the 
house, when they wore stopped. 
The wires on the roof were placed 
as much as 5 feet or G feet apart, 
the object being to admit light to 
some Figs on the hack wall. To 
each of those wires four or five 
growths were trained. After 
flowering, which was during May. 
the growths that had borne tin* 
blossoms were cut back to the main 
stem, which ahvays seemed to me 
a terrible shock to the plant. How¬ 
ever, the subsequent growth was 
just as strong as ever. It is true, 
the border for the Rose w as made as 
perfect as it possibly could be, and 
special regard w r as paid to the 
drainage. I believe we lose many 
plants of this Rose through de¬ 
fective drainage, and where the 
soil is heavy, 1 would even go so 
I far as to concrete the bottom, as is done in 
many places for Vines. 

When new growths are well on the move, 
care must be taken that, the plants do not 
suffer from lack of moisture at I he root , 
although, of course, judgment w ill he neces¬ 
sary not to overdo it. The syringe must be 
freely used on bright mornings, and, when 
growth is well advanced, both morning and 
afternoon, just when the house is closed up 
for the day. This humid atmosphere will 
! stimulate the trees to very rapid growth. 
Air must be more liberally afforded towards 
autumn, and, finally, full air left on night 
I and day to enable the wood to ripen off well. 
Sometimes w r e exceptionally 

highly coloured" blDssoms. which give the 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
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632 


GARDENING ILL UST RAT ED. 


January 25, 1908 


impression that there is moro than one 
variety. This heightened colour is generally 
attained by feeding with some stimulant, 
such as blood manure, but this manure must 
he cautiously handled. 1 have great faith in 
bone-meal, well washed into the soil, and 
afterwards liquid-manure, made from enw- 
inaniire and soot one week, and, say, liquid- 
manure from sheep-manure another week, 
and so on, varying the food as much as we 
can according to our supplies. 

It may be some readers are trying this Rose 
for the first time, and they have purchased 
plants in pots. Instead of trying to grow' it 
in the pot, I would advise them to plant it 
out in the greenhouse, in a space 3 feet each 
way. and ns much in depth. Put G inches of 
broken bricks or clinkers into the bottom, 
then fill up with good compost. If turfy 
loam is available, so much the better. Add 
I wo parts of loam lo one part of one-year-old 
manure. Do not prune the plant/ beyond 
removing a few Inches of the extreme ends. 
Usually there are about two main growths on 
the extra-sized plants supplied in 8-inch pots. 
Place these against the wall or roof, and 
lie them to wires about 12 inches to 15 inches 
apart. Keep the growth well syringed. 
From them one should obtain two or three 
dozen blossoms in due course. Do not. over- 
water. Give one good, liberal supply at time 
of planting, and this will last for a long time. 
After flowering, take the two growths and 
bend them to the right and left, but do not 
cut any away. The lower eyes, previously 
dormant, will now show signs of breaking, 
and three or four of the best should be en¬ 
couraged and the rest rubbed off. These new 
growths should attain a good length—some 
10 feet or 12 feet—if a favourable summer, 
and it is from these we shall obtain our next 
year’s crop. The old growths may be re¬ 
placed in position, or, if the young' growths 
come along as they should do, these old 
shoots may be partially, if not entirely, 
removed. 

A small house of this Rose once came un¬ 
der my notice. It was an unheated structure, 
and much of the glass was out, but the owner 
obtained some superb blossoms by the last 
days of May and early in June, and they were 
eagerly sought after, coming in, as they did, 
just when the forced flowers were waning 
and before outdoor Roses appeared. One 
secret of success in these cold houses is to 
]x*rmit no serious fluctuation in temperature 
beyond what is natural at the time, and, to 
aid this end, air should be left on always. If 
frost, docs come rather sharp when growth is 
active, a mat should be thrown on the roof, 
and allowed to remain on the next day, if 
sunny, so that, should frost have got in, it 
may go out steadily by slow thawing. For 
cold houses nothing can surpass the hedge 
Drier for Marechal Nicl. preferably on a 
stem about 2 feet in height. If the border 
cannot be made inside, then it ean be formed 
outside, and the Rose'brought in through a 
hole in the brickwork. Rosa. 

ROSE OBERHOFGARTNER A. SINGER. 
We have in this Ross a great gain to the free- 
flowering. sweet-scented varieties, and it is 
of a very pleasing pure carmine colour. 
Taking as it does its free-flowering quality 
from Caroline Testout, one of its parents, 
the other parent, Marie Baumann, has be¬ 
queathed its delicious fragrance. It is re¬ 
markable that this good old Rose should do 
this in both cases where it has been used as 
pollen parent, the other example being Papa 
Lambert; and it would be well to remember 
this, for, perhaps, we may raise a race of 
fragrant Hybrid Teas by crossing them with 
fragrant Hybrid Perpetual^. I think the 
Rose under notice is entitled to be called a 
Hybrid Tea as much as several sorts that are 
already so-called. The flowers of O. A. 
Singer are large, and carried on good, stiff 
stems, although the blossoms are rather 
inclined to droop. It is a fine pot Rose, and 
will, I think, take a prominent place in the 
garden. _ Rosa. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Roses for wall of church.—I have made a good 
bed In the north west angle between the tower and 
gable of our church. I have planted Trnptcolnm 
spei'insiim to furnish the north wall of the tower, ami 
want to select two Roses Ur-Vain on the w«mtern re- 

Digitized by CjO gLC 


turn wall, but, as the spot gets very little sun and Is 
exposed to the westerly winds, l have a difficulty in 
making the selection. The wall is yellowish, so that 
Roses of that colour are rather barred. Rosa Port- 
landica has been suggested, but I cannot find it, men¬ 
tioned in any of the catalogues I have searched nor 
in the " English Flower Garden, 1 ' 1 thought of plant¬ 
ing Blush Rambler and Aimtfe Vihert, but I shall be 
thankful for advice. Hardiness and continuous bloom 
would be the qualities most valued. — R. I>. O'Brien. 

[The Portland Roses which you have had 
recommended to you are seldom found now. 
Many years ago there used to be a very beau¬ 
tiful sort named Mme. Knorr, which be¬ 
longed to this group; but. we believe you 
would have some difficulty in obtaining this 
Rose now. Rose du Roi, which also belongs 
to the group, is a very fragrant and hardy 
sort, but scarcely vigorous enough for your 
purpose. Blush Rambler is lovely, hut. not 
perpetual flowering. It blossoms about the 
middle of July. Aimee Vihert would be a 
very good sort, but we think Mme. Alfred 
Carriere would bo better. For a second one, 
why not try Dorothy Perkins? Its rapid 
growth, delightful foliage, and display of 
blossom, produced over a long period from 
August to October, render it a very valuable 
wall Rose. Cheshunt Hybrid would be an 
excellent red variety; so, also, would Gruss 
an Teplitz.] 

Pruning Hybrid Perpetual Roses.— In March 
or April 1 shall have to prune some H.P. Rose-bushes 
that were not cut at all iast spring. Shall I cut them 
bark to two, three, and four buds, according to 
strength of shoot, and, therefore, treat them the 
same as ir pruned last year—I mean cutting them 
back quite as severely? Would you prune Hybrid 
Teas as hard as Hybrid Perpetual*?—G rateful. 

[As your bushes were not pruned last 
season, they have, doubtless, become rather 
gaunt-looking plants; and, in order to bring 
them into a shapely condition, they should 
be hard-pruned this year. The objection to 
this is that, by cutting bock into the two or 
three-year-old wood, one is apt to obtain 
blind shoots the summer following, so that, 
in order to enable you to obtain some blos¬ 
som, we should advise you to retain some of 
last season’s grow ths on each plant—say, one 
or tw-o, shortening these according to the 
vigour of the variety. If a very vigorous 
sort, such as Ulrich Brunner or Margaret 
Dickson, retain last year’s growths from 
12 inches to 15 inches long where they are 
extra strong, and any small shoots of the 
size of a lead-pencil cut back to about 
2 inches. The older growths prune hard 
back almost to the ground level. Probably 
there will be some rather soft, green-looking 
growths, that started out from the base last, 
year. These will be best if cut back to 
within an inch or so of their base, for we 
ean never obtain satisfactory blossoms from 
unripe wood. The usual practice is to cut 
off the points of these-young, sappy growths 
about September. This enables them to 
ripen off much better, so that at pruning 
time one may retain them from 3 inches to 
4 inches long, and sometimes more. To ob¬ 
tain quality of blossom, it is best to prune 
Hybrid Teas severely, just as one does the 
Hybrid Perpetuals, but sorts such as 
Camoens, Mme. Pernet Ducher, etc., should 
be but moderately pruned. When wanted 
for garden decoration, even large-flowered 
sorts, such as Caroline Testout, should not 
be pruned severely. In many gardens La 
France succeeds much better when lightly 
pruned. The centres of all Rose-bushes, and 
standards, too, should be relieved of a quan¬ 
tity of the small, twiggy growths which 
usually accumulate there.] 

Labelling Roses.— Much of the interest in Ro;e- 
growing is lost if the labels are wanting. 1 have a 
great objection to fastening the labels on to the 
plants, .is, however careful the prnner may be, he is 
apt to rut, away some of the names. One of the best 
methods of labelling is to push a stout galvanised 
wire into the ground, attaching the label to a loop. 
The best label is that known as the Acme. 

Tonic's manure —A supply of this should be pre¬ 
pared now, ready for application in February. It is 
a well-tried compound, and is made as follows:— 
.Superphosphate of lime, 12 parts; nitrate of potash, 
10 parts; sulphate of magnesia, 2 parts; sulphate of 
iron, 1 part; sulphate of lime, 8 parts. Apply, in 
February, \ lb. to square yard. 

Roses on old trees. -Holes may now be 

prepared with a view to planting come of the 
lovely rambling Roses on old trees. What 
more beautiful than an old, worn-out tree, 
covered with, perhaps, a fine plant of Ben- 
net’s Seedling, Flora, or Felicite-Perpetne? 


In preparing for these against living trees, a 
hole should be opened large enough to hold a 
good-sized cask filled with good compost in 
which to plant the Rose. 


CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

GROUPS OF CHRYSANTHEMUMS AT 
SHOWS. 

A few weeks ago “C. A. H.,” in Gardening 
Illustrated, asked the question, “Why do 
not Chrysanthemum and other societies, when 
framing their schedules, insist upon a more 
sensible and useful way of grouping plants?’’ 
That is the question I have asked many a 
time. As an old exhibitor, I have on several 
occasions, when putting up groups, intro¬ 
duced, for the sake of variety, singles. Pom¬ 
pons, Anemones, and Japanese Anemones; 
but. for so doing, 1 have more than once 
had to give way for a group composed solely 
of incurved and Japanese, with, perhaps, a 
few' reflexed, simply because they presented 
the largest blooms, and lit lie regard w as 
paid to the minor sections. So long as so¬ 
cieties frame their schedules to read, “a 
group of plants arranged for effect, occupying 
so much space,” then there is not much hope 
for the grower of the beautiful singles and 
Anemones. In fact, I have heard the remark 
from judges of groups more than once: “If 
this man had not put these in (referring to 
singles), he would have stood a much better 
chance.” It is true, as the writer of the 
article mentions, “the majority of those who 
visit our Chrysanthemum shows have little 
knowledge of the flowers beyond those be¬ 
longing to the Japanese and incurved types.” 
This is a fault resting largely with the so¬ 
cieties, although, I must admit, of late years 
they are waking up to the fact that the public 
are beginning to see that in the smaller blos¬ 
soms, as represented by the singles and Pom¬ 
pons, there is a deal of beauty, and it is in¬ 
teresting to note how the prize list for these 
is gradually improving each year. We have 
arrived at a time when bigness in a blossom 
is not the ideal it was once accounted. It 
would possibly be considered a bold step to 
offer prizes for groups composed of singles, 
.and Anemones, and Pompons, but I think it 
would he found that many small growers, 
who have neither the time' nor opportunity 
to grow large blooms, would enter such a 
competition. T have more than once taken 
a group of plants to an exhibition, only to 
receive a third or fourth prize, because the 
smaller flowered sorts were included, when 
the prize-money scarcely exceeded the cost of 
getting the plants to the hall and the en¬ 
trance fee; but. of course, that is a contin¬ 
gency which all exhibitors have to take into 
consideration. Leahurst. 

Naturally-grown plants. I am entirely at. 
one with ‘‘C. H.” (page 590) in his plea*for 
the abandonment of the cultivation of the 
large-flowered exhibition varieties of the 
Chrysanthemum in favour of the naturally- 
grown or bush plants. There can be no two 
opinions as to which of the two classes of 
blooms is the more valuable for decoration, 
and which is the more enduring, either when 
cut or allowed to remain on the plants. It. 
is now four years since I gave up growing the 
large-flowered exhibition varieties; and, 
never having had a very high regard for big 
blooms, it occasioned me but little or any 
regret t.o abandon them. In my case, these 
big flowers, beyond making a tine show for 
the time being, were of little or no practical 
use, and were seldom used for any purpose 
whatever, and the same space which the 
plants occupied now accommodates some 
hundreds of hush plants of the best of the 
decorative varieties each season. The 
blooms are not only very much admired, but 
are in great request for various purposes as 
long os they can be had. Grown in this way 
the blooms are very useful, and not only do 
we obtain a greater number of them on a 
plant, but, being smaller and more naturally 
grown, they are firmer in texture ; the 
colours are as bright, if not brighter, and 
certainly more lasting, while they may be 
had in great beauty up to the present time, 
if due regard be paid to the selection of 
varieties—a thing impossible under the old 

rogjme.—A- W, i_ p.JQ c 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


far 

t’l 

«L 




January 25, 1903 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


633 



INDOOR PLANTS. 

CARNATION WINSOR. 

Tuis is one of the newest “pink’’-flowered 
varieties sent to us from America, and it is 
more decidedly “pink” than a large number 
of those so-called that have preceded it. As 
may be gathered by the excellence of the 
flowers represented in the picture herewith, 
it is a flower of the “Lawson” type; and, 
indeed, it is a “Lawson” with the cerise 
colouring of that variety taken out of it. The 
habit of Winsor, jus far as at present seen, 
is somewhat less bushy than in the original 
Lawson form, but there is obviously the 
same firm, thick, and rigid stem of that well- 
known and much grown variety, and much 
of the form of the flower. The colour is of 
a rosy-pink hue, and bettor described, per¬ 
haps, by referring it to a rather pale-flowered 


Mrs. Lawson or a flower of that kind which 
has l>een some days expanded. Altogether it 
is an excellent kind, full of vigour and pro¬ 
mise, and of a type that promises well from 
the decorator’s point of view. For it should 
lie remembered that not a few of the cruder 
and more objectionable colours of the dav- 
lime are materially modified and toned down 
if seen under artificial light. Added to this 
is the fact that any room agreeably warm 
is almost sure to bring out the strong 
fragrance of fragrant kinds, an attribute that 
is not usually apparent in the show-room or 
exhibition-hall. Winsor, from the few’flowers 
we have personally tested, i3 not a fragrant 
variety, but a beautiful and showy one, 
deserving every attention. 

Begonias dropping their flowers (A. Brose).— 
An excels of water or the reverse will cause the 
flowers to drop, while too dry an atmosphere 
sometimes the cause of 


THE MOON-FLOWER (IPOM.EA BONA- 
NOX), 

Will you kindly tell me through GARDENING the name 
of the plant called the Moon flower? I saw a plant 
about twelve years ago. I am now going to try to 
grow it, so should be glad of any information as t-o 
treatment and temperature. —A Reader. 

[This is so named owing to its habit of 
expanding its flowers only at night and clos¬ 
ing them the next morning. For garden pur¬ 
poses this renders the plant of much less 
value than it would be if the flowers opened 
during the day. They can, however, be used 
for indoor decoration at night, as when cut 
and placed ill water the buds expand and re¬ 
main in perfection all night. 1. bona-nox is 
a tropical annual, thriving with us only when 
grown in a moist stove. The stems grow 
rapidly to a length of 120 feet, or even 40 feet, 
given liberal treatment. The flower-tube is 


tha^T?fcuble. 

Go gle 


Carnation Winsor. 


about 0 inches long, and the limb about the 
same in diameter, the whole pure white, with 
a few tints of pale green. It blooms during 
the summer. Seeds should be sown in 
February, and the plants potted into large 
pots filled with strong loamy soil. The name 
Moon flower is also applied to Chrysanthe¬ 
mum leucanthemum, but, judging from your 
query, the Ipoimea is <lie plant you wish to 
procure.] 


Crassula lactea. — Flowering in mid-winter 
in a warm greenhouse 'niter having been 
grown in an airy unshaded house nil summer, 
this comparatively unknown plant proves use¬ 
ful, and is worth growing largely, not only 
for the decoration of the conservatory, but 
also to supply out flowers. It forms a tuft 
of about a score of branches, clothed with 
closely arranged, fleshy, boat-shaped leaves, 


1} inches long by three-quarters of an inch 
wide. Each branch bears in winter an erect 
branching panicle of snow-white flow'ers, like 
little stars, placed thickly together, so as to 
present a pyramidal bunch 4 inches or 
6 inches high and about 3 inches wide. The 
purity of the flowers, their lasting qualities, 
and their graceful arrangement on the stalks 
arc such as to render them of great value for 
decoration. 

INDIAN AZALEAS. 

Vast numbers of young, vigorous plants of 
many varieties of Indian Azaleas are sent to 
this country from the Continent during the 
autumn months. Being, as a rule, set with 
flower-buds, they bloom well Ihe first season 
after importation—that is, if a few points 
are carefully studied. In the first place, vast 
numbers are disposed of at the different auo- 
* tion rooms throughout the 

country, and particularly 
in London. Good plants 
may he obtained from 
these sources, hut if the 
unsold ones are kept over, 
they often get so dry as to 
injure them greatly. This 
may not bo noticed for a 
time; but, if the plant is 
not actually killed, its 
flowering is greatly im¬ 
paired. Another point 
that greatly concerns the 
flowering of Indian Aza¬ 
leas is that many kinds are 
liable to push out young 
shoots just below the 
flower cluster, while still 
in the bud state. If un¬ 
checked. these shoots will 
deprive the flowers of 
such a large share of 
nourishment that many of 
them will fail to open pro¬ 
perly. Sometimes five or 
six of these little shoots 
will make their appearance 
around the leaves situated 
just below the flower-buds, 
and it is very necessary 
that these be removed at 
once. The way to sepa¬ 
rate them from the plant 
is to take a firm hold of 
the stem just below the 
shoots with the forefinger 
and thumb of the left 
hand, then with the right 
take hold of the little 
shoots it is desired to re¬ 
move, and pull them out 
sideways. In this way 
they may be readily de¬ 
tached from the parent 
plant. Some varieties are 
far more liable to the pro¬ 
duction of these shoots 
than others, and freshly 
imported plants more so 
than those which have 
been grown in this country 
for years. Whilo this in¬ 
fluences the flowering of 
Indian Azaleas to a cer¬ 
tain extent, there are also 
other considerations to be 
taken into account. In the first place, it 
must be borne in mind that the deli¬ 
cate hair-like roots are very susceptible 
t.) injury if allowed to get too dry, 

and, as they are potted in a peaty 

compost, which dries much more quickly 
than ordinary potting soil, particular atten¬ 
tion needs to be paid to them, especially as 
the days lengthen and the sun gains strength. 
Thrips, too, are then apt to get troublesome, 
but they can be readily destroyed by vaporis¬ 
ing. while a liberal use of the syringe will 
keep them in check. X. 

Calceolaria Burbidgei. -This very showy 
plant (examples of which were shown in 
Messrs. Veiteh’s group at the Horticultural 
Hall on December 31st) claims attention 
for its long season of flowering, its distinct 
clear yellow blooms, anti its free habit of 
grow^i Indeed,--any plant wbij^e season of 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 









Gardening illustrated* 


January 25, 1908 


G3i 


blooming, particularly in winter, is of long 
duration, deserves to be known to all growers 
of beautiful and attractive flowers. Rather 
tall it may be in its habit of growth, but this 
in not a few instances should prove a valu¬ 
able point rather than a drawback. Of 
dwarf flowering subjects, at most seasons of 
the year there is usually a goodly number, 
but taller subjects, particularly among 
flowering plants, are not so plentiful. 
Allowed to grow without stopping after a 
certain age, or when a bush of given size has 
resulted, this Calceolaria appears to occupy 
a unique position.—T. 


CAMELLIAS. 

These are not valued as they were some 
thirty years ago, when repeat orders used to 
come in by wire several times daily when I 
was a pupil in a well-known West of England 
nursery. Still, there is a number of plants 
to 4)e found in many old-established gardens, 
growing either in tubs or pots, and, in many 
instances, planted out in conservatories. To 
my idea the flowers are unsuitable for vase 
work, having such a stiff, formal appearance, 
while, on the plant, few are so effective when 
the plant is well flowered. Camellias set 
many flower buds, which, if left on, prevent 
either one reaching a good size. These ought 
at the present time to be considerably 
thinned, leaving at the most but two buds. 
A dry atmosphere is not good for Camellias, 
consequently the bushes should be daily 
syringed until the flowers begin to expand, 
and again immediately the plants pass out of 
flower. Neither must a high temperature 
be given them ; it should not exceed 50 degs., 
anu, if growing in pots or tubs, a little weak 
manure-water may be given at alternate 
waterings. Clear soot water is a fine stimu¬ 
lant, but should not be overdone. Any 
plants troubled with the white scale ought to 
be sponged before the flowers get too far 
advanced, using a little soft-soap in the 
water. If the flowers have to be cut and 
sent any distance, they must be most care¬ 
fully handled, as they so soon get bruised, 
an 1 go brown. Wrapped in cotton-wool or 
wood-wcol, and placed in a single layer in 
boxes, not much fault will be found when 
arriving at their destination. Any necessary 
pruning should be done quite early in spring, 
blit, where many flowers have to be cut, this 
will keep the plants within bounds. 

Devonian. 

NOTES AND REPLIES . 

Seedling Auriculas flowering—I thank you 
for past favours, and hope for future enlightenment 
through Gardening. I have about 500 seedling Auri- 
eulas (stage variety). A goodly number will flower 
this spring. 1 have them in pots in greenhouse, just 
to keep frost away. Can I depend on the markings 
being eorreet the first year of blooming, so that I 
may throw them away if I do not consider them 
worth keeping, or will they improve in this respect? 
—M. I*. L. E. 

[We are somewhat at a loss to know, when 
you describe your seedling Auriculas as of 
the “stage” variety, whether you refer to 
what is known generally ns shows or alpines. 
as both are staged for exhibition, and, in 
London, the alpines most largely. But, as¬ 
suming that by “stage” you mean the show 
section, we presume you know that flowers 
of these, to be any good, must have either 
white, grey, or green edges, or must be seifs, 
also have golden thrums, or clusters of 
anthers, set closely in a centre cup of golden 
hue, and have around that a clearly defined 
ring of white paste, with dark ground colour 
and edging, if an edged variety, and a rich 
ground colour if a self. We think, if any of 
your seedlings flower in the spring, they will 
produce blooms that show the true character 
of future flowers, but less in size of pip than 
second-year flowers will be. But you may 
find that the plants which carry flowers this 
spring will be those of coarser growth, and 
have, therefore, the least, refined flowers. 
The slower-growing seedlings may, on tlie 
other hand, another year give the best 
flowers. With these shows, real improve¬ 
ment on named varieties is very slow, if really 
it be any advance at all. In any case, the 
most in the way of first-class flowers that 
come from all raisers hardly exceeds one in 
the year. Alpines are rather more prolific of 
fine new varieties, and these seem to offer 

Digitized by GO^ 'glC 


more scope for improvement. These, again, 
should have good size, flat, well-rounded pips, 
each one having a thrum eye, a golden or 
cream centre, and a dark or mauve or other 
rich-hued margin or ground. Generally the 
alpines are more easily grown than are the 
shows. Save any seedlings that bloom which 
you like, and, whilst colour and markings 
will be the same, the flowers will be finer the 
following year.] 

Increasing Primula Kewensis -I shall he 

greatly obliged if you will kindly inform me the cor¬ 
rect met hod to adopt for the propagation of Primula 
Kewensis, and the time of year to set to v-ork. I 
have a plant in bloom now, and wish to get a small 
stock.—F inchleian. 

[After the flowering season is over, Pri¬ 
mula Kewensis will push out a few offsets, 
and when these are sufficiently developed to 
form roots of their own, the plant may be 
turned out of its pot and washed clear of the 
old soil. Then it will be possible to trace the 
origin of every root, anu the plant may be 
divided without any risk. The pots em¬ 
ployed at. first should be comparatively small 
ones, clean, and effectually drained. A mix¬ 
ture of loam, leaf-mould, and sand will suit 
this Primula well, and after potting, the 
young plants had better be kept somewhat 
close and shaded till the roots take possession 
of the new' soil. When well furnished with 
roots, they must be shifted into their flower¬ 
ing pots. In addition to this, Messrs. Veitch, 
of Chelsea (who first distributed this Pri¬ 
mula). have induced it to seed, and this, of 
course, affords a ready means of increasing 
it.] 

Azalea indica. —At the end of the autumn 
we find immense quantities of beautifully- 
shaped, healthy, young plants of Azalea 
indica arriving from the continent, mostly 
from Belgium, where they appear to make 
a specialty of them, for they are the 
pictures of health and good culture. As a 
rule, their life is a brief one, for after they 
have flowered once the majority of them find 
their way into the scavengers’ carts. Yet 
they are by no means difficult to grow, and, 
for the majority of amateur gardeners who 
have an indicated, or, at the best, a very im¬ 
perfectly-heated glasshouse, this is really one 
of the best plants to invest in, as, with the 
aid of a glass roof, anyone may safely em¬ 
bark in their culture. Those who are start¬ 
ing to form a collection could not do so at a 
better time than the present, when the auc¬ 
tion rooms are filled with baskets of lovely 
voting bushy plants, full of flower-buds that, 
with ordinary care, cannot fail to reward the 
owner with gorgeous heads of bloom. As a 
rule, they are sent over with a plentiful sup¬ 
ply of fibrous roots that are so closely matted 
together in bloeks of peat that have only to 
be fitted into a pot of from 6 inches to 
8 inches in diameter, and filled in with fine 
sandy peat. They should be set in a cool, 
shaded house, or pit, and kept syringed over¬ 
head for a time, until fully established, 
when, if placed in very gentle heat, they 
rapidly swell up their flower-buds, and may 
be brought on in succession right through the 
spring. It is when the flowers fade that they 
need the most care in putting them into a 
moist, gentle heat, and perfecting their 
annual growth, after which they may be set 
out-of-doors in a shaded position, and fre¬ 
quently syringed overhead. — James Groom, 
Gosport. 

Tubers In baskets.— Much h as been 
written from time to time as to the beauty 
of hanging baskets. Everyone who has to do 
with them knows very well what a pretty 
effect a few r of them give in a greenhouse 
when depending from the roof; but I think 
we consider only just a few subjects as being 
suitable, like Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums, Cam¬ 
panulas, such as isophylla and its white 
variety, and we hardly ever think of tuberous 
plants as being of any use out of a pot. This 
is a great mistake, and, I think, would be 
rectified by those who make baskets some¬ 
what of a specialty, if they only knew how 
they enhance a place. At least two I have 
grown can be attempted by all who have 
greenhouses, and with very satisfactory re¬ 
sults, too. They are Begonias and Aehi- 
menes. Presently many will begin to make a 
start with other plants. Why not have a 
change during the coming season, and try 


these? All that is required is a basket well 
lined with fresh Moss and proper soil, and 
this should be loam and leaf-mould and sand. 
The tubers ought to be distributed evenly in 
the basket, afterwards covering them with 
soil, and making it quite firm. They are 
just as easy to grow in baskets as pots, and 
flower as freely if well attended to as to 
watering— Townsman. 

Solanums. —We do not think much about, 
berry-bearing plants during the summer and 
autumn, when there is plenty of blossoms; 
but when shorter days indicate that winter is 
coming, then wo consider what we may have 
to give the greenhouse beauty in the dark 
days. Solanums are charming little plants, 
and their berries form a pleasing contrast to 
other greenhouse tenants. Few, compara¬ 
tively, grow them, and still fewer take the 
trouble to raise the plants from seed. Very 
soon now seed sowing will be occupying gene¬ 
ral attention, and I would recommend a con¬ 
sideration of Solanums. Just as one may 
raise and rear Lobelia, Stocks, and Asters, 
so Solanums may be raised, potting them on 
subsequently, and standing them in cold 
frames during the summer, letting the plants 
stand on a bed of ashes, and, if possible, 
securing for them a position with a north 
aspect., taking special care that they aro 
not allowed to become dry, particularly at the 
time of flowering, otherwise the blooms drop. 
If they are given proper attention, they make 
nice specimens, producing a good many ber¬ 
ries, that are bright at Christmas in a "fairly 
temperate house, and that show* up well in me 
company of Cyclamens and Primulas. Sola¬ 
nums do not need a deal of heat—in fact, a 
place where Pelargoniums can be wintered 
will suffice for them. They may be raised 
from cuttings, which can be struck in spring 
from young shoots secured from old plants 
that have previously been cut back. Plants 
can be kept a couple of seasons • without 
much difficulty, provided they are cut back in 
spring, but I have always found that young 
plants are more satisfactory in the long run. 
—Leahurst. 

Beauty on the greenhouse roof.— There 
is no need for a greenhouse roof to be quite 
bare. Most houses are situated where they 
can get the sun, and, as a consequence, it is 
absolutely necessary at certain periods to 
provide some means of shade, otherwise the 
plants on the stages will be dried up and 
become debilitated. Two methods are open, 
either having blinds or screens, which may 
be removed as occasion requires, or training 
climbing plants under the rafters, that will 
give just the desired shade, whilst at the 
same time they will add beauty to the house 
by a profusion of flowers at various times. 
Some may raise an objection to creepers on 
a roof at all, because of the danger there 
is in their becoming heavy and excluding too 
much light; but the remedy is always in the 
hands of the grower, as, by a judicious thin¬ 
ning of the shoots at intervals, one may have 
much beauty in a house without experiencing 
any of the disadvantages alluded to. Among 
plants that may he selected, there are few 
better than Clematises, because thp growths 
are thin, and they can be easily trained. 
There are beautiful sorts, like Gloire St. 
Julien, white, with yellow stamens; Fairy 
Queen, flesh; Gipsy Queen, dark velvety 
purple; Lilacina floribunda, pale lilac; and 
Lucy Lemoine, double white, blooms large 
and fine. C. indivisa lohata, the best green¬ 
house variety, has pure white flowers, and in 
a warm house may bo had in bloom in early 
spring. Some of the Passiflorns, too, are 
very charming ; but they must be pruned each 
year if they arc to be kept within bounds. 
Delightful also are the flowers of the Lapa- 
gerias, both the white and rose varieties, 
when seen depending from a roof. Plum¬ 
bago capensis and its white variety, when 
planted out in a border or large pot, where 
its roots are not too much restricted, yield 
their flowers lavishly, ancl are most useful for 
cutting. In annuals, wo have things like 
Tropaeolums that give brightness to a roof, 
and Heliotropes may be so encouraged to 
grow that they will get a long way on a roof, 
and flower profusely if planted in good soil, 
and fed occasionally. Roses are too well 
known to need more than mention.— Towns¬ 
man. 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAI6N 



January 2u, 1903 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


030 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 

FOTA, COUNTY CORK. 

Thb fine avenue of Cordyline australis 
shown in the accompanying illustration is 
growing on Fota Island, the property of 
Lord Barrymore, situated in the south of 
Ireland, between Cork and Queenstown. 
The climate of the southern shore of Ireland 
is very similar to that of Cornwall, so that 
tender subjects may bo grown with equal 
success in both districts. Cordyline australis 
is very common in the south-west, and, in 
some of the coast towns, thousands have been 
planted, which present a beautiful picture 
in the summer, when l>enring their great 
branching flower-heads of innumerable small, 
white, scented blossoms, that are haunted by 
countless insects through the sunny houTs. 
The gardens at Fota are extremely interest¬ 
ing, and contain numbers of rare plants. 
Among these may be mentioned three bushes 
of Edwardsia (Sophora) grandiflora, standing 
in the open ground far distant from any wall. 


Lomatia ferruginea is the picture of health, 
and Colletia horrida is 20 feet high. Of 
Palms, Trachycarpus Fortunei is 20 feet in 
height, and Phoenix senegalensis over 8 feet. 

On the walls are grown Trachelospcrmum 
(Rhyncospermum) jasminoides, Coronilla 
glauca, Clianthus puniceua, and Asparagus 
deflexus, which has clothed a piece of wall 
10 feet by 10 feet in extent. Tree-Ferns are 
grown in a shady spot beneath trees. Dick- 
sonia antarctica is represented by fifteen fine 
examples, nnd is associated with Wood- 
vvardia radicans and Lomaria magellanica. 
Of trees, one of the finest is a superb speci¬ 
men of the rare Pinus Montezuma?, 35 feet 
in height. The Mexican Sacred Fir (Pinus 
religiosa) is 60 feet in height and Pinus 
patula is of similar dimensions. The Cali¬ 
fornian Abies grandis is 70 feet in height, 
and the Japanese A. firma 30 feet. Tlie 
largest specimen of Cupressus macrocarpa, 
which had a trunk girth of over 12 feet, was, 
unfortunately, levelled to the ground in a 
gale a few years ago. Parottia persiea is 
represented by an unusually fine example, 


and in this they grow rapidly, and never fail 
to bloom. As is well known, they multiply 
freely, and young plants may often be found 
close to the old ones towards the end of tho 
summer, from seeds that have dropped. I 
certainly think they are worth a frame, 
because the flowers come finer, cleaner, and 
much earlier, and one may cut bunches of 
the blossoms long before those out-of-doors 
are ready.—F. D. 

COUNTY COUNCIL GARDENING. 
The County Council are now proceeding with 
the enclosure of Lincoln’s Inn Fields with 
the common variegated Privet—about the 
meanest thing they could use. The garden¬ 
ing of this body is pitiable in the extreme ; 
men are now following the old hen-scratching 
system of the London gardens, digging among 
the roots of everything, not finishing any¬ 
thing, and the place swarms with wild Lilacs, 
ragged, and not fit to be seen. Shrubs are 
planted under the dense shade of trees, where 
they can never grow, and, to crow'ii all, the 
Council has formed a series of “rockeries” 



Avenue of Cordylines at Fota, near Cork. 


The largest of these is about 14 feet in 
height, and in June all are covered with yel¬ 
low flowers, to be followed by seed-pods. 
This is by far the freest flowerer of the 
Ed wards ios, and should always be planted 
in preference to E. rnicrophyfla, which is a 
very shy bloomer, and often refuses to flower ) 
at all. There is a fine specimen of the splen¬ 
did Embothrium coecineum, nearly 30 feet | 
in height, from which numerous layers have 
been taken. The beautiful Mngnolia Camp- i 
belli is 30 feet in height, but is, unfortu- i 
nately, crowded by other trees. Cornus I 
capitata, better known as Benthamia fragi- j 
fera, is 40 feet in height, with a like branch- I 
spread, and is a lovely 6ight when covered 
with its great pale sulphur flowers in June. 
Citrus trifoliata, in the open, flowers abun¬ 
dantly, and also bears fruit, showing that a 
position in front of a south wall is by no 
means indispensable for its successful cul- I 
ture, as is sometimes stated. What is, prob¬ 
ably, one of the finest specimens of Berberis 
nepalensis in the British Isles is to be seen 
here. Its measurements are, height 12 feet, 
diameter 18 feet. The-^Jiandsome-foJiaged 

Digitized fc> (jOOgle 


I with a branch spread of over 30 feet, which | 
I must be a glorious sight when in the zenith 
| of its autumnal colouring. Tiiere are young 
trees of the Parasol Fir, Seiadopitys verti- 
eillata, Cladrastris tinctoria, and Davidia I 
involucrata. In the lake the best of Marliac’s i 
Water Lilies are grown, affording a 
pleasing display of colour through the sum¬ 
mer months, and well into the autumn. 
Bamboos are largely grown, a large island ; 
being covered with a forest of Arundinaria 
Falconeri, very tall and graceful. These, I 
unfortunately, seeded three years ago, and 
have since entirely disappeared. 

S. W. F. 

Primroses in frames. —The common Prim- | 
rose of the woodland is undoubtedly very I 
pretty, and, under cultivation, one may im 
prove it; but it is to the hybrids that we 
must turn if we are to have choice and reallv 
beautiful blossoms. Seed sown in May will I 
make plants for blooming the following year I 
if anyone cares to go to a little trouble. I 
usually give them a soil composed of old loam 
and cow-manure, with a little sharp sand, | 


right beneath the shade of the great Planes 
in the middle of the enclosure—the very 
worst situation that could have been chosen 
to grow rock plants, which love the open sun. 
The “rookeries” are built near the stems of 
the great trees. Tho true way here should bo 
to enjoy the stately beauty of these Planes, 
and even emphasise it in planting ; but a more 
silly thing could not be done than strewing a 
lot of ill-made “rockeries” to take the eye 
away from the dignified tree effects. 

It is a pity that such a noble London squaro 
should be the subject of such ignorant work. 
Considering the vast area of precious spaces 
in the hands of the County Council, it M 
little less than amazing that they do not get 
as a superintendent a real gardener from 
the men trained in such places as Kew, and 
some of our fine country places, who would 
save them from the reproach of such work 
as we have pointed out. As it is, much of the 
precious means at the Council’s disposal is 
wasted, judging by this square, on the 
meanest kind of work, such as only a jobbing 
gardener of the lowest! class would not be 
ashamed. qL_ .. . 

university of Illinois at 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 









633 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. January 25 , 1908 


THE JUNIPER SAXIFRAGE (SAXI- 
FRAGA JUNIPERINA). 

One of the prettiest-leaved Saxifrages of the 
type of Saxifraga sancta and other yellow- 
flowered species is S. juniperina, a good and 
distinct flower, but one not too often seen 
in rock gardens, where one would expect to 
find it. Juke the allied S. sancta, it has two 
defects in many gardens, and these are not 
always easy to surmount; indeed, it may be 
said that they cannot be prevented without 
some special attention in certain districts. 
These failings are shyneas of bloom anil a 
tendency to become brown and die off in 
parts- not an uncommon thing with many 
other Saxifrages more frequently cultivated. 
The shyness of flowering is one frequently 
met with in the case of the yellow-flowered 
Rookfoils, and T find that, those of the habit 
of juniperina, sancta, Boydi, and a few more, 
including Elizabeths*, one of the best have 
all this defect in a greater or less degree j 
when the plants attain any size. They gener¬ 
ally bloom better when small, which would 
point to the necessity of frequent division, if 
free-flowering is desired. This, however, 
means that we are to deprive ourselves of the 
pleasure of having good dumps of the plants 
themselves, and 1 am not prepared to admit 
that the freer-flowering cannot be bought at 
too high a price, if it is only to be secured 
at the expense of a spreading tuft or carpet 
of the ornamental spiny foliage of the Juni 
]>er Saxifrage. Personally, I am satisfied 
with a few flowers, if I can retain the hand¬ 
some tufts of foliage. The dying-off in the 
centre is a defect which is also impossible to 
avoid in perpetuity, as all large plants eventu¬ 
ally become in need of propagation, and, if 
this is neglected, will l>e lost. It cannot he 
said that a cushion of any Saxifrage which 
has become browned or blackened in the , 
centre—a browning which gradually spreads 
until the specimen decays—is ornamental. 
Yet in some positions the life of a tuft may 
be prolonged. 

1 have seen great benefit result to this 
Saxifrage by keeping the plant free from ex¬ 
cessive rainfall on the foliage, but without 
depriving it of any at the roots, and this can 
be effected by means of a sheet of glass 
raised 6 inches above the plant. These arti¬ 
ficial-looking contrivances are, unfortunately, 
often indispensable in wet districts, but they 
may be avoided to some extent by choosing a 
dry position under the partial shelter of a 
stone which will throw off some of the ex¬ 
cessive moisture. All the same, the finest 
plants I have se?n have had glass above them. 
This see ms also to have the effect of induc¬ 
ing greater freedom of flowering. This points 
to the adaptability of Saxifraga juniperina to 
the alpine-house, such ns that at Kew, or to 
cultivation in a frame. Care should be 
taken, however, to have a young plant or two 
always at hand to replace the older speci¬ 
mens, if they fall into bad health, and this is 
easily secured by striking cuttings or rooting 
small divisions in a frame at any time during 
spring or summer. No one ran see a large 
and healthy plant of this Rockfoil without 
admiring its cushions of green, sharp-pointed 
foliage and its yellow flowers. It likes a soil 
with plenty of grit in it. 

S. Arnott. 


THE AMATEUR’S HOTBED. 

No doubt whore gas can be had, or even a 
good oil lamp, the modern propagator, as 
constructed specially for amateurs, presents 
many advantages over the ordinary hotbed. 
It is not always possible to secure a good 
quantity of fresh horse-manure, for one thing. 
It. is equally difficult to find room for storing 
the manure, preparing it properly, and mak¬ 
ing up the bed for the needful frame. But 
even when these things are available, there 
is generally, with the amateur, too much 
haste to make up his hotbed, using the 
manure whilst it is crude, and rapidly heat¬ 
ing so soon as the bed is made up. Then not 
only is. for a brief time, a fiery heat gene¬ 
rated, but much steam also, and if seedlings, 
cuttings, or plants be in the frame, then they 
get scorched or parboiled. Just as suddenly 
as the heat is generated, so soon does it de¬ 
cline. The warm til, that should lx* for some 

Digitized by GOOgle 


time gentle but certain, rapidly disappears, 
and the frame is left as cold as if no hotbed 
had been made. The amateur’s hotbed is 
necessarily a small one, because he has but 
a small frame to top it, and he has to pur¬ 
chase his manure, which is expensive. The 
average professional gardener, who knows 
how to prepare his manure, also, perhaps, 
has a much larger frame to heat, hence the 
bulk of his bed is so much broader and deeper 
than is that of the amateur. Where, how¬ 
ever, the dung-bed is to be relied upon, ama¬ 
teurs should not hurry to prepare it. The 
month of March is soon enough, as by that 
time light is better, and, in a south aspect, 
the sun can materially help the warmth in 
the frame. Manure for the purpose should 
be solely from a stable where horses arc 
healthy. It should not include too much long 
straw, but just, an average proportion, and 
that rather short than long. This manure 
should he well mixed and shaken up, then be 
built up into a neat heap. If it be spen, 
however, that it is rather dry, sprinkle 
water freely over it as it is being mixed and 
built up. When this is done, throw over the 
heap two or three. Russian mats, pieces of 
sacking or old carpet, or other covering, both 
to ward off rain and to retain warmth. A 
long, pointed stick may be forced into the 
centre of the heap. After a few days, that 
may be drawn out and the heat tested. If 
found quite warm to the hand, remove the 
covering, and turn the heap, putting the 
outer manure inwards, also again damping 
it if appearing dry, and cover mg the heap 
again. That process it is well to repeat once 
more, and then, a few days later, the hotbed 
may be made up. 

When manure is thus prepared, there is no 
likelihood that there will be any fierce heat¬ 
ing, whilst but little steam, and that quite 
sweet, will be generated, and the warmth of 
the bed will be as continuous as it is possible 
for a moderate-sized bed to furnish. When 
such a bed is made up, warmth is assisted 
to continue if the sides and ends be protected 
with some covering or a coat of long straw 
litter. Very heavy rain or snow-falls are the* 
chief means of rapidly reducing heat. and. 
so far as possible from such the bed should 
be protected. When the frame is placed on 
the bed. it is well to cover that up at night 
with mats or other material, as the cold night 
air, if allowed to affect the glass top. soon 
cools the warmth within. Yet., until all 
steam generated by the freshly made up bed 
is exhausted, it is wise to tilt the frame light 
at the back just half an inch to allow that 
steam to escape. That can be done without 
unduly exposing the bod to the action of the 
atmosphere. J). 

WALLFLOWERS. 

The Survival of the Fittest. 
There is no sweeter spring blossom in the 
garden than the Wallflower, and with the 
wealthiest, as with the poorest, it is alike 
popular. Some plants have their period of 
favour, and then are lost for a while, giving 
way for other plants upon which public 
opinion is directed; but the love for the 
homely Wallflowers never wanes. Every 
spring one finds them planted out in beds on 
the lawn in front of the hall, or in the fore¬ 
front of the carriage-drive leading to the 
castle. Every year, too, they are to be seen 
in the borders of the cottager’s plot, bloom¬ 
ing with as much profusion, and giving freely 
of their rich fragrance. In no place are 
Wallflowers more prized than in the garden 
of the cottager. In the suburban garden 
they are just as welcome, but I think they are 
not always understood, especially by those 
who procure plants in the autumn. Take as 
an example, plants that arc purchased in a 
market in October or November. These arc 
lifted from the beds with what soil can bo 
had, and generally packed in boxes. Some of 
the soil falls away, the plants flag, and do not 

? ;et established before frost sets in, and so the 
irsfc spell of hard weather finds some of them 
shrivelling up. Another mistake, too, that 
is made by the buyer is selecting the largest 
plants. It does not follow that those are 
the best. On the contrary, experience often 
proves that it is the medium and sturdiest 
specimens that are most likely to stand the 
winter, and this docs not apply to Wall¬ 


flowers oqly. It is the fittest that survive, 
and these are the plants of moderate height, 
that have been transplanted in ordinary gar¬ 
den soil free from manure, and that have 
had plenty of room to develop. Over and 
over again I have heard this remark, when 
Wallflowers died off in early spring, “They 
w r ere big plants when I bought them, but 
gradually got less after they were planted.” 
Just so; their size was against them, and the 
disturbance of the roots in the late autumn 
did them no good. When Wallflowers show 
signs of drooping in the autumn, and thev 
do not recover in a reasonable time, then the 
first frost will try them. It is the plants 
carefully taken from the bed where they 
have been during the summer, and planted 
in the spaces prepared for them, that are 
most likely to “broaden into beauty in the 
spring,” and amongst them none will give 
more satisfaction than those of moderate 
size. Leahtrst. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Making a lawn-tenuis-court.— I am about to 
form a lawn-tennis-court, and would be glad to have 
advice as to the best method. It is not to be si 
Grass court, and I would prefer something less dusty 
than a cinder court and with more spring than a 
concrete court. Is tar macadam to be recommended? 
Perhaps some of your readers could advise — Fife- 
shire. 

[In our issue of October 19th, pa^e 448, 
you will find instructions as to making a 
gravel lawn-tennis-court, which, we should 
imagine, would answer your purpose.—E d.] 

Plants for poor soil —I have a new garden, at 
present covered with Heather. The soil is sandy 
gravel, height about 700 feet. Will you please ad¬ 
vise me:—(1) What evergreens would grow best for 
hedge? (2) What Roses would climb best on south 
wall? (8) What creepers would grow in such a soil? 
-A. W. Lewis. 

[In such a soil as you mention von will 
have to prepare stations for the various 
plants you wish to grow. (1) For the hedgj 
you will find nothing better than the Holly. 
(2) Roses, such as Rose d’Or. Bouquet d’Or. 
and Lamarque would do well if, as we say, 
you go to the expense of digging out the 
natural soil and substituting that which 
Roses require. (3) Given the same treat¬ 
ment, any climbing plants should do well.] 

Heliotropes. —Possibly of all fragrant 
flowers. Heliotropes rank among the most 
popular. Poets have likened its rich odour 
to a “drowsy smell.” People who have a 
difficulty in remembering the names of 
flowers recognise in “Cherry I*ie ” a flower 
rich in fragrance, and one popular with 
everybody. A few pots in a conservatory or 
greenhouse give a delightful effect to a place 
from a floral point of view, to say nothing of 
the aroma they impart. Now is the time 
when they may be taken in hand. Those 
who have old plants should have no diffi¬ 
culty in securing cuttings, and these, if in¬ 
serted in the moist, sandy bed of a propa¬ 
gator. will strike readily enough. Once the 
leaves flag, their progress is not so quick. 
For window-boxes, and as specimen plants, 
Heliotropes may be grown, whilst as climbers 
in a house, they arc, after a few years, not 
the least interesting.— Woodbastwick. 

Montbretias. —If I had to express an opinion as 
to the easiest to prow, the most free flowering, and 
the cheapest bulbous plant, I should certainly recom¬ 
mend the Monthretia. It will give surprising re¬ 
sults in the commonest of soil if it can he where the 
sun can roach it. Then surely, on account of cheap¬ 
ness, the Monthretia is not to be beaten, when it is 
remembered that the conns multiply very rapidly. The 
fact that they do grow so fast is a point sometimes 
overlooked, for it is when they are neglected to he 
divided that they cease to bloom, the corms getting 
so crowded that they do not get a proper chance to 
ripen; but, treated properly, whether in a country 
or town garden, they never fail to bloom, and the 
flowers are nice for cutting. Autumn is perhaps the 
host time to divide them; but the spring should not 
be allowed to go by before the work is taken in 
hand.—W oodbastwick. 

Old Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums —In these days 
when so much is done in the spring in propagating 
plants for the flower garden, etc., there is a tempta¬ 
tion to dispense with old plants after they have 
served their purpose for younger ones, and what is 
occasionally referred to as more profitable specimens; 
but one must make an exception in the case of Ivy- 
leaved Pelargoniums, for they are, and can be. used 
in a variety of ways. Old plants come in bandy for 
window-boxes, hanging-baskets, and the like—in fact, 
it is a good plan to take away the old soil, and. in¬ 
stead of pottins. to replant in a basket in a little 
new material with which has been incorporated some 
old manure. Such plaint* will give a profusion of 
blossoms in the autumn.— F. \V. D. 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



January 25 , 1008 


GAR D EWING ILL VSTRATED. 


637 


FERNS* 

A DISTINCT SHIELD FERN. 

To those who arc acquainted with the com- | 
mon Shield Fern (Polystichum angulare), 
which in many of our western counties, in 
association with the Hart’s-tonguo Fern, 
lines the hedge-bottoms, the accompanying I 


tremely handsome. Its aristocratic name is 
Polystichum angulare divisilobum plumosum 
laxum (Jones and Fox); but this is only 
used on special occasions, and P. a. laxum 
(Jones), Jones’s laxum, is sufficient to dis¬ 
tinguish it among a select circle of similar 
but distinct relatives. Its history is interest¬ 
ing. It is derived from a natural “sport” 
— i.r., a distinct form found wild among the 



A plumose Shield Pern (Polystichum angulare laxum (Jones). From a frond 
sent by Mr. W. .Marshall, Auchinraith, Bexley. 


illustration will be accepted as fully justify¬ 
ing the term “distinct.” It is taken from a 
frond exhibited by Mr. W. Marshall, the 
chairman of the R.H.S. Floral Committee, 
as an example of what the species can do in 
the way of variety, and it was, naturally, 
greatly admired. The plant from which it 
was obtained is a robust grower, with fronds 
quite 2 feet or even more long, and a speci¬ 
men plant, well grow 


vu'f'ft, therefore! ox- 

L.o gl£ 


common ones. The common Prickly Shield 
Fern is only twice divided—that is, the frond 
consists of a midrib, with two rows of pinnae 
or side divisions, and these pinnae consist of 
a slenderer midrib, with a row of undivided 
pinnules on either side, these being shaped 
somewhat like a fingerless glove, with the 
thumb sticking out at an angle. Both the 
thumb and the rest of the pinnule have 
prickly points, projecting at the tips and 


edges. The wild find in this case was three 
times divided—that is, the pinnules were 
divided again into smaller divisions, making 
the frond much more feathery, but still 
nothing like the specimen we treat of. The 
late Col. A. M. Jones, of Clifton, and Dr. 
Fox, of Brislington, sowed spores of this wild 
find, and, to their intense surprise, they ob¬ 
tained a batch of Ferns much more divided 
still—in point of fact, our “wonder” is one 
of the batch—and among the acquisitions' 
were not only this one type, but three others, 
which by some are considered superior—viz., 
densum, robustum, and Baldwini, the last of 
which admits of no question as regards 
superiority, since its innumerable slender 
divisions are actually hairlike in their deli¬ 
cacy. Unhappily, this one did not lend it¬ 
self to propagation by bulbils, as did the 
others, and the original, since the death of 
its possessor, the late Mr. E. J. Lowe, of 
Shi renewton Hall, Chepstow, has been en¬ 
tirely lost sight of. Happily, I, just before 
Mr. Lowe’s death, visited him, and found 
some microscopic spore-heaps, the result of 
which is a batch of splendid Ferns on the 
best lines; but only one approaches the 
parent in its peculiar delicate division. Be¬ 
sides these particular forms, whose origin 
is known, there are two other magnificent 
Shield Ferns which rival it in division and 
piled-up mossiness—viz., Esplan (the rest of 
the long name is the same) and Grimmondte. 

Up till quite a recent period this section 
of the almost innumerable varieties of the 
native Shield Fern had no competitors in 
beauty of their particular kind among all the 
Ferns of the world, since they are even more 
finely cut than Todea superba, the Emerald 
Ostrich Feather of the Antipodes. Compara¬ 
tively recently, however, that still more 
simple Fern, Nephrolepis exaltata, only 
once divided, commenced to sport on similar 
lines, breaking first into a twice-divided 
form, and then quits suddenly sporting again 
and again, until now we have a series of in¬ 
tensely divided and up-heaped Moss-like 
varieties on precisely similar lines to the 
“wonder” we treat of. Nephrolepis exal¬ 
tata Piersoni first appeared, and this wan 
followed by half a dozen other improved 
ones, culminating, so far as the present is 
concerned, and as their names imply, in 
elegantissima and superbissima, names 
which one might almost assume to he calcu¬ 
lated to satisfy the Fern so thoroughly that 
it will now rest on its laurels, so to speak, 
and go no further. 

Chas. T. Druery, F.L.S., V.M.H. 


ROOM AND WINDOW. 

NOTES AND REPLIES. 

In packing flowers. -One of the greatest 
pleasures of having a garden is that of giving 
away flowers, but it often happens, unfor¬ 
tunately, that the pleasure of the recipient is 
greatly marred by the condition in which the 
flowers arrive. A little care would prevent 
this. In the first place, the flowers should be 
picked as early as possible in the morning 
before the sun has become very hot, and 
those should be selected that are not too for¬ 
ward in development. They will expand in 
water, but if picked when nearly in full bloom 
they will, probably, fall to pieces on the way. 
It is a good thing to let the flowers stand in 
water before packing them, so that they may 
absorb sufficient water to last them on their 
journey. The best kind of a box is a light 
wooden one, but stout pasteboard will do. 
The box should be lined with paper, and the 
flowers should be packed firmly, without 
crushing, and should not be wet. The best 
flower-packer we know cuts the flowers in the 
evening and puts them in water for the night 
before sending them off early the next morn¬ 
ing, every bunch being attached with twine 
through the side of the box, so that move¬ 
ment of the flowers is stopped. It is sur¬ 
prising how well flowers sent in this way 
arrive. 


Index to Volume XXVIII.-The binding covers 
(price Is. Gil. each, post free. Is. 9d.) atid Index (3d., 
post free, 3jd.) for Volume XXVIII. are now ready, 
and may be had of all newsagents, or of the Tub* 
lisher, post free, 2 s. for the two. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




638 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


jA^UAft* 25, 1908 


FRUIT. 

STEWING PEARS. 

“A. W.’s.” note (page 587) comes at an op¬ 
portune time, and those who are in quest of 
good kinds of Pears for stewing have been 
given an excellent selection. Unless a large 
supply is wanted and a long season has to be 
covered, there is, however, no need for a 
long list, for stewed Pears, appetising as 
they are, are not in such demand as dessert 
Pears. Nothing more wholesome or deli¬ 
cious can he wished than a dish of stewed 
Pears. Catillae and Uvedale’s St. Ger¬ 
main are the varieties most commonly 
planted, and the best known; but, as 
“A. W.” points out, there arc some others 
that are equally good. Gilogil comes in 
most useful in autumn, and will keep very 
well until the New Year. This, almost 
round in shape, and of a very useful size, 
has a rich, russety-brown coat. A point 
about Gilogil so much in its favour is the 
naturally rich colour of the fruit when 
cooked, no artificial colouring matter being 
needed, as is the case with some kinds. 
With me it bears very regularly under any 
form of training. I find the bush or pyra 
mid the most suitable, preferring to give up 
space on walls to the choice dessert varieties. 

It is a waste of space to grow this kind on 
a wall. Not many gardens, whatever their 
extent, have an excess of wall space for the I 
production of choice fruit, and Pears in par¬ 
ticular, so that these stewing varieties of 
Pears are valuable, because of tlieir hardy 
habit. Bcllissime d’Hiver I have on Fir-poles 
in cordon form, and find it free and regular 
in its cropping, and, moreover, the fruit is 
large and handsome, keeping well into the 
New Year. A small kind, with a distinctly 
aromatic perfume, is Bezi d’Heri; but, un¬ 
like Gilogil, this needs to be coloured arti¬ 
ficially'. it is too small to have any com¬ 
mercial value, but there is no Pear in my 
collection so regular in its cropping, and for 
this reason I retain it. Like the others 
named, this, too, grows in the open in the 
shape of a spreading bush. One really fine 
stewing variety not mentioned by “A. W.” is 
Beurre Clairgeau, though by so many it is 
regarded strictly as a dessert Pear. The 
R.H.S., however, forbids its inclusion in the 
dessert section. The fact of its ripening in 
November makes its season rather a short 
one. In the small garden this dual purpose 
ought to be a strong recommendation in its 
favour. The crop can be thinned to ad¬ 
vantage often for stewing direct from the 
tree, the remaining fruits growing to a large 
size, the flavour being then very good. 

_ W. S. 

BIRDS AND FRUIT-BUDS. 

At this season much bud-destruction is often 
caused by birds, particularly bullfinches, and 
various devices have to be employed to save 
a portion of the prospective crop. Black 
cotton threaded in a network about the 
branches is usually employed, and fish nets of 
fine mesh assure a freedom from attack when 
they are whole and well placed. If only 
occasional holes are made in the nets by age 
or damage, these birds find them out. and 
pass through in search of the buds; and un 
less the holes are early located, much damage 
will be inflicted on the trees. I have seen 
loose straw scattered about over the trees by 
some with good effect; hut it has an untidy 
appearance. Some, again, tie up the hushes 
with a strand or two of string, and so pro 
serve the centre portions of the trees from 
attack. I have found that one or two spray¬ 
ings of nicotine emulsion serve the purpose 
well of keeping birds off. Such a nauseous 
taste is imparted to the buds coated with 
this nicotine that birds do not injure them. 
A quiet morning must he chosen for this 
work, or much waste will follow. The emul 
sion is soluble in water. From an economic 
point of view, a fine .spray syringe should be 
emploved which "ill also ensure that the 
branches are well coated with the liquid. A 
little dry lime dusted over the trees while 
they nre damp with the spray may be claimed 
as a "still greater deterrent to the birds. It 
is very annoying to find one’s trees ruth¬ 
lessly stripped of their buds, perhaps late in 
winter, when pruning has been finished, and 

Digitized by CiOOQIC 


there is no surplus of buds available. Trees 
are absolutely ruined if they have been raided 
by these voracious birds. I find the nicotine 
emulsion one of the best remedies I have 
used. W. Strugnell. 


NOTES AND REPLIES . 

Treatment of Fig-tree.—1 have, against a south¬ 
eastern wall, a Fig-tree, about 8 feet high and 10 feet 
wide, which is now covered with incipient Figs. Ap¬ 
parently, it has not been pruned for 6ome time, as 
not only are there numbers of shoot s from the roots, 
but the* tree itself is thick with branches—large and 
small. Ihe soil is heavy, and I am forking up the 
surface, and giving a good top-surface of rich stuff. 
What should 1 do to the trees?— F. K. M. 

[The rich stuff you have placed over the 
roots of your Fig-tree will only aggravate 
the evil, inasmuch as it will cause the tree 
to grow more luxuriantly, with the prospect 
of it perfecting its fruit becoming more re¬ 
mote than ever. It is owing to the fact of 
the tree getting out of hand that it failed to 
bring its fruits to perfection last season, 
and the fault lies at the roots, which, from 
the account you give of the growth made by 
the- tree, are quite out of bounds, and need 
checking from root-pruning. This has often 
been described in our columns, yet. in case 
you have failed to notice the particulars, wo 
again repeat them. The first thing is to take 
out a trench 2 feet wide, in the form of a 
semi-circle, and distant from the bole of the 
tree 3 feet— i.e., measuring from the tree to 
the innermost edge of the trench. Then, 
with a sharp spade, proceed to dig out the 
soil in the 2-feet space marked off for the 
trench, and sever all roots met with, both 
large and small, and continue the digging 
until the roots are no longer seen. Keep the 
sides of the trench as intact and upright as 
you can, and, when finished, work under the 
centre of the tree to as far back as the wall, 
to ascertain whether it has any tap-roots. 

If any are found, sever them close up to the 
ball; fill in this drift again with soil, and ram 
firm. Then pare the ends of the severed 
roots showing on the face of the ball quite 
smooth, and if any should project, cut them 
close hack to the soil. This done, fill the 
trench with brick rubbish and old mortar, 
ram it as firmly as possible, and allow it to 
rise a few inches above the surrounding level 
which "ill form a saucer like depression 
round the stein of the tree, which you will 
find useful hereafter to prevent water from 
running to waste, and for top-dressing. Next, 
cut clean out all the sucker-like growths 
which spring straight up from the roots; then 
remove the soil oil the surface down to the 
roots, and replace it with good turfy loam, 
enriched with bone-meal, and mulch with 
horse-droppings. Afterwards the branches, 
where unduly close together, may be thinned 
out, but we do not advise much pruning 
being done directly after such severe root dis¬ 
turbance. If you are anxious to get the 
whole of the wood trained in close to the 
wall, this will take some little time to effect, 
as the tree appears to have grown very wild. 
If unacquainted with the pruning of the Fig, 
your best plan would be to call in a practical 
man to do it for you; but we may point out 
that splendid crops of Figs can be ob¬ 
tained from trees which are allowed to grow 
in a semi-wild state, if only the roots are 
always kept under control, and the branches 
are not allowed to become overcrowded.] 
Cordon Pears. —Recently I was looking at 
a wall of cordon Pears that had been planted 
three years ago, and the wall, some 12 feet 
high, was completely covered with trees in a 
bearing state. In no other way could the 
work be done so quickly. They were single- 
branched cordons on the Quince, and planted 
about 18 inches apart, giving plenty of room 
for some of the side shoots to be tied in. 
which is an advantage as far as fruit-bearing 
is concerned. A little more freedom of 
growth than is commonly permitted has also 
a tendency to strengthen and prolong the life 
of the trees. The Quince may not in all cases 
be the best stock, but where it succeeds no 
other is required for cordon training. The 
main requirements are plenty of support in 
the shape of rich top-dressings and abundance 
of water in dry weather. The roots should 
never be disturbed with a spade or fork, and 
I no other crop should be planted within 4 feet. 
I of the stems of the trees. It is unfortunate 


that some of the best Pears will not take 
kindly to the Quineo stock. Marie Louise, 
for instance, to my mind the very best 
autumn Pear, will not grow on the Quince ; 
but the list of good Pears that will succeed 
on it is long enough to ensure a good succes¬ 
sion all through the season. For small fami¬ 
lies the cordon system will answer well, as it 
permits of a much larger variety being grown. 

—C.__ _ 

GARDEN WORK. 

Conservatory. —Now that the days are 
lengthening, the increasing light will give 
strength to the expanding blossoms, and 
forcing becomes an easier matter. For a 
large house we want Targe plants. Small 
plants, such as Cyclamens, Primulas, Cine¬ 
rarias, and bulbs will make bright groups 
round the edges of the borders, or, if there 
are stages in the house, they will be at home 
. there. In the old days we grew named 
varieties of Cinerarias, and propagated from 
offsets. Now we save seeds from the best 
varieties, and they may be flowered in 5-inch 
pots, or, if potted on, will make plants 
2 feet or more through. Such plants do 
much to brighten up the conservatory at this 
season. They do not want much tire-heat, 
as that, in these dark, dull days, weakens 
their growth. A cool position, safe from 
frost, is best for them. Primula obconiea 
has received a bad name, but good varieties 
of it, well grown, are among the most useful 
plants for the conservatory at this season, 
as, when potted on into 0-inch pots, very 
large plants may be obtained. They require 
a good supply of water, and once or twice a 
week some stimulant, should be added to the 
water. There is a beautiful carmine- 
coloured variety, and the varieties of grandi- 
flora are also good. If susceptible people do 
not touch the plants, they will do no harm 
to anyone, or, if gloves are worn, they will 
be harmless. Large, well-grown plants of 
Genistas are very useful now, either as 
bushes, pyramids, or standards. It is only 
a matter of training when the plants are 
young. Cytisus filipes is a charming old 
plant, very graceful in habit when trained as 
a standard. Camellias and other plants in 
the borders will require liberal supplies of 
water. Soot-water may be given once or 
twice a week in a clear state, to improve the 
colour of the foliage. Above all tilings, do 
not make any dust in the house, as it clings 
to the foliage. 

Forcing-house. -Frequent change is an 
advantage. The forcing plants are often 
crowded together at first, but rearrangement 
should take place the moment they begin to 
encroach upon each other. Change of posi¬ 
tion is beneficial, even supposing it may not 
for the time being be possible to give the 
things more room. Plants, like men, have 
to submit to what is termed the strenuous 
life, but it is useless attempting to force 
anything to produce blossom or fruit if the 
blossoms have not been laid up in the 
branches by previous treatment. There 
must bo a steady, genial temperature of 
60 degs. to 65 degs. at night. More than this 
may lead to weakness and possible failure. 
Use the syringe freely on bright davs, and 
see that nothing suffers from want of water. 
The water, where possible, should be sup- 
died from a tank in the house. Roses estab- 
ished in pots may be brought forward now. 
Standard Roses are useful in the conserva¬ 
tory. 

Orchard-house.— Peach and other fruit- 
trees in pots should have what little pruning 
and cleaning is required now. These are 
often placed rather thickly on the borders 
at first, and after the crop is set, the trees 
can be opened out, and some of the hardiest 
Plums can be plunged outside when the 
weather is settled in May or June. When 
the blossoms expand, use the camel's-hair 
brush when the pollen is ripe and dry, on a 
bright, sunny day. This must be repeated 
as fresh blossoms open, till a full crop is 
set, allowing for the removal of badly-placed 
fruit by-ana bye. Water when necessary, 
giving soot-water, weak and clear, for the 
present. Later something stronger may ho 
given. Give air freely on mild, bright days 
at the ridge; hut avoid cold draughts. Ast 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


January 25, 1908 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


639 


a rule, fruit-houses do not require much 
front air at present, and wliat air is given at 
the front should pass over or through be¬ 
tween the hot-water pipes, so that the chill 
can be taken off it. Any check to growth 
now will be harmful. 

Early Tomatoes. —These may either be 
planted in narrow beds or troughs alongside 
the hot-water pipes, or planted in boxes or 
in. pots. Orange-boxes in our district are 
cheap, and each one will hold three plants, 
and the plants do well in them. At the end 
of the season the boxes will cornu in for fire¬ 
wood. If it is not possible to change all the 
soil, make the holes large, and fill in round I 
the plants with good loam. 

Plants in the house. —If by any chance 
frost enters the house, move the frozen 
plant to the. cellar, so that it may thaw gra¬ 
dually. This, of course, should be done very 
early in the morning. Cinerarias soon show 
the effects of frost, and, if badly frozen, will 
not recover. India-rubbers are tender, and 
should be moved to the centre of the room 
and surrounded with paper. Newspapers 
will keep off a good deal of frost. In frosty 
weather keep the plants dry at the root, but 
use the sponge on the foliage. 

Propagating " house. —Many gardeners 
have to do their propagating in various other 
houses, where the requisite temperature can 
be obtained; but where much propagating 
from cuttings and seeds has to be done, a 
small, low, span-roofed house, well heated, 
should be available for the purpose now. 
Later on it may come in for Melons, or it 
may be employed to grow smaller plants for 
table decoration, or raising Ferns from 
spores, or other work of the kind, of which 
there is always plenty to do. Where Be¬ 
gonias arc raised from seeds, room 
will be required for pricking off the seed¬ 
lings, and, no matter how large and numer¬ 
ous the glass structures, my experience has 
been there is always scarcity of room. The 
night temperature should be steady at 
65 degs., with a comfortable bottom-heat. 
My ideal propagating-housc would be a low, 
flat span roof, with a path down the centre; 
on one side a bed, with Cocoa-fibre as 
plunging material, over hot-water pipes, or, 
better still, a tank through which the hot 
water flows; on the other side, no bottom- 
heat, but a slate bed, the cuttings, when 
rooted, to be lifted to the slate bed, and, 
when hardened, potted off. Grafting may 
be done in this house now. 

Outdoor garden.— Now that the frost, for 
the time being, has departed, planting may 
he resumed. Where the lawns and shrub¬ 
beries are of sufficient extent, there is always 
room for a choice tree or shrub. Among 
conifers, Abies Parrvi and Abies pungens 
glauca, and Blue Colorado Spruce are beauti¬ 
ful trees for the lawn. A selection may be 
made from the varieties of the Lawson Cy¬ 
press, that will make an interesting and 
effective group. The following half-dozen 
are distinct and good: C. L. Darleyensis, 

C. L. erccta Alluini, C .L. erecta viridis* C. L. 
Frascri, C. L. lutea, C. L. Trioraphe de Bos- 
koop, and Paul’s new r golden variety, erecta 
aurea. There must bo no crow-ding, and some 
degree of prominence should bo given them. 

A very pretty feature may bo made of the 
ornamental Crabs, and the fruits of such 
kinds as John Downie, Dartmouth, Mam¬ 
moth (yellow-fruited variety), and the scar¬ 
let Siberian are useful for making jelly or 
for eating raw. Positions also might be 
found for the Quince and the Mulberry. 
The Quince should be in the form of a stan¬ 
dard tree, the Mulberry in any form. Both 
these are slow’ in coming into bearing, and 
the Mulberry should be planted on Grass or 
in some position where it can be turfed under 
the tree when the tree begins to bear. If 
the frost has disturbed any recently planted 
herbaceous plants, fasten them in the 
ground. All late-planted things should be 
mulched before frost comes. 

Fruit garden. —The best Cherries for the 
small garden are the Dukes, which include 
May Duke, Archduke, and Late Duke. 
These make nice pyramids, budded on the 
Mahaleb, and they are easily netted up when 
the fruit is ripe. Many refuse to- plant 
Cherries of the large growing trees, because 
they are difficult to prert^t with netting, 

Digits^ t> Go gle 


and the birds get them ; but I have never 
had any difficulty in preserving the Dukes as 
pyramids on the Mahaleb. The Waterloo 
Heart makes a wide-spreading tree in the 
orchard or even on the lawn, and the fruits 
do not crack in rainy weather like those of 
some other varieties. This kind would be 
worth a place in the shrubbery for its 
blossoms, even if the birds took the Cher¬ 
ries. Continue the pruning and spraying of 
Apple-trees and other fruits. Peaches and 
Nectarines should he pruned, washed, and 
trained as soon as the frost goes. Train the 
bearing wood thinly. Peaclie3 generally 
bear so freely if the trees are clean and 
healthy that to secure a crop, there is no 
necessity to train the young shoots nearer 
than 6 inches. This will give room for 
training in the young wood of the coming 
season without overcrowding. 

Vegetable garden. —Make up hotbeds for 
Potatoes, Asparagus, Carrots. Radish see<i8 
may be sown between the row’s of Potatoes, 
or scattered thinly over the Carrot bed, as 
the Radishes will come off before the other 
things require the space. When the roots 
of the early forced Asparagus are cleared 
out, sow' thinly Lettuce seeds of an early, 
quick-hearting kind. Peas and Beans may 
be planted outside as soon as the land is in 
suitable condition. In all gardens there are, 
or should be, early borders sloping to the 
sun, backed up by a wall or closely-trimmed 
hedges. In such a position, all early crops 
should be sown when .the land is ready, but 
it will be better to wait till the surface is 
dry. The preparatory work should be 
moving on now. The frost has given an 
opportunity to wheel on tho manure to thoso 
plots which require it. No doubt some of 
our readers will be trying the soil inocula¬ 
tion methods recommended by Professor 
Bottomley. 

E. Hobday. 

THE COMING WEEK’S WORK. 

Extracts from a Garden Diary . 

January 27th. — Arrears of pruning and 
training of fruit-trees are being fetched up, 
and trenching also is receiving attention. 
Tea Roses were protected when the frost set 
in, the dwarfs by eartiling up and standards 
by fronds of Bracken. Brier cuttings for 
budding, that were prepared some time ago, 
have been planted, also cuttings of Goose¬ 
berries and Currants. 

January 2St/i. —Shifted on strong plants 
of Cinerarias for late blooming and Calceo¬ 
larias for spring blooming, etc. Fuchsias 
have been placed in heat to produce cuttings. 
Autumn-struck cuttings of Fuchsias are now- 
in small pots on shelves near the glass In 
warm houses, and arc ready for -shifting into 
5-inch pots. Young shoots will he stopped 
to make the plants bushy, and a stake placed 
in the centre of each plant. 

January 29lh. —Cut down Zonal Pelar¬ 
goniums which have been in flower all the 
winter, and put in the cuttings. The cut¬ 
tings will be rooted in boxes over the hot- 
water pipes. Potted off several kinds of 
Tomatoes, including Sunrise. They will he 
planted in a warm house as soon as ready. 
Drawing earth up alongside rows of Cab¬ 
bages. Successional batches of Seakale arc 
brought on in Mushroom-house. 

January 30th. —Finishing pruning and 
training Peaches on south wall. Morello 
Cherries occupy the north -side. These will 
now receive attention. The trees will he 
syringed when training is finished, as the 
black-fly sometimes gives trouble. Box 
edgings are being replanted where gappy. 
A weak part of a lawn has been dressed 
w’ith lawn-manure. 

January 31st.. —Dusted soot and lime over 
fruit-trees and bushes likely to be attacked 
by birds. Gooseberry quarters have been 
manured and pointed over with the fork. 
Several old trees of Blenheim Orange Apple 
attacked by canker have had the wounds 
cleaned and dressed with tar. This w-ill 
eheok the fungus for a time. Planted more 
trees of Newtown Wonder Apple. 

February 1st.— Top-dressed Cucumbers. 
Sow'ed more Melon seeds, also Tomatoes of 
several kinds. These, of course, must have 
a temperature of 60 degs. to 65 dogs, at nigjit, 


Very little ventilation beyond what comes 
through the laps of the glass is required till 
the spring advances and w r eathcr improves. 
Grafting Roses and Clematises under glass 
in warmth. Put in cuttings of various 
things. 

ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 

January 14th, 1908. 

The exceptionally severe weather was, 
doubtless, responsible for the paucity of 
exhibits. In the case of the floral commit¬ 
tee, a record was established, in the fact 
that not a single novelty was submitted to 
that body, that being the first experience of the 
kind during the twenty-five years the present 
chairman has presided over these gather¬ 
ings. Some excellent exhibits of Carnations 
were staged, however, the flowers being ex¬ 
ceedingly good for the time of year. Orchid 
exhibits vere very few in number, the groups 
being also small. 

Messrs. Jas. Veitch and Sons, Ltd., Chel¬ 
sea, filled one of the long tables with a very 
showy Jot of flowering plants, arranged very 
tastefully in groups. Jacobinia ciccinea 
(scarlet) was especially good, as was also 
J. chrysostepliana (golden-orange). Oranges, 
Citrons, and Limes in fruit and flower made 
a pleasing display, anc there were also fine 
groups of Indian Azaleas in variety, Lily of 
the Valley, Roman Hyacinths, Moschosma 
riparium, Calceolaria Burbidgei, and others 
freely interspersed with choice Palms and 
Ferns in a very pleasing manner Messrs. 
Hugh Low and Co., Enfield, sent a lot of 
winter-flowering Carnations in capital condi¬ 
tion, the colour and the freshness of the 
flowers being noteworthy. Among the finer 
kinds were Aristocrat and Mauviana—per¬ 
haps the nearest approach to blue yet seen in 
these flowers. The scarlet-flowered varieties 
were both good and numerous, and of these 
we noted Cnrdinal, Beaeon, Britannia, and 
Victory, all in good form.. Lady Bountiful 
and White Perfection were extremely good 
among the whites; while Salmon Lawson, 
Mrs. Burnett, and Harry Fenn were also 
good. Cyclamens were very good, too, from 
this firm, who also contributed a number of 
Cypripediums. Mr. L. R. Russell, Rich¬ 
mond, made an attractive display of showy 
evergreen shrubs, such as Aucuha japonica 
vera in berry, Eurya latifolia variegata, Ele- 
agnus latifolius aureus, Hcdera maderiensis 
variegata, Buddleia asiatica, and the like. 
Messrs. J. Peed and Sons, West Norwood, 
brought a variety of succulents in pots, also 
alpines and rock plants. Misses Hopkins, 
Mere, Shepperton, had a nice lot of Christmas 
Roses, with Primroses, etc. Messrs. Win. Cut- 
bush and Sons, Highgate, N., sentgreenhouse- 
flow’ering plants, rock plants, and shrubs. 
In the greenhouse plants Carnations were 
largely displayed, and in splendid condition, 
the rich scarlet variety, Robert Craig. Mar- 
mion (the winter-flowering Malmaison), and 
many others creating a really good display. 
Retarded Lilies, as L. longiflorum, the red 
and white-flowered varieties of L. speciosum, 
and varieties of L. auratum, etc., were well 
shown. The rock garden exhibit of the firm 
was also good, and here, in addition to many 
flowering shrubs as Daphne Mezereon, 
Hamamelis arborea, winter-flowering Jas¬ 
mine, and the like were some of the earliest 
flowers among hardy plants, as Iris Histrio, 
I. histrioides, I. Tauri. Adonis amurensis, 
and the new A. Kiknasaki, with yellow 
Buttercup - like flow-ers. The Christmas 
Roses were also good, the “major” variety 
being that shown. 

Messrs. Heath and Son, Cheltenham, 
brought many fine Cypripediums in variety ; 
and other exhibitors of Orchids included 
Messrs. Sander and Son, St. Albans, who 
had a remarkable plant in Odontoglossuin 
MacNabianum (O. Harryanum x O. Wilcke- 
anum albens), w'hose handsome flow’ers were 
rich purple, mottled and barred cream. 
Odontoglossuin hybridum Bingelianum, from 
Baron Schroeder, The Dell, Egliani, with 
brown, yellow-blotched flowers, margined 
broadly with clear yellow, is one of the most 
remarkable hybrids we have seen. Major 
Holford, Westonbirt, had a fine Lteiio- 
Cattleya called Corunna; while Mr. Henry 
Little, The parous, Jwicljeiibam, brought a 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



640 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


January 25, 1908 


handsome spike of Cafctleya callistoglossa 
ignescene. Messrs. Armstrong and Brown 
and Charlesworth and Co., Bradford, also 
brought some interesting hybrid Orchids. 

From Mr. F. Bibby, Hardwicke Grange, 
Shrewsbury, came a collection of Pears, and 
bottled fruit8 in many kinds were displayed 
bv Miss C. E. Martin, Willowbrook, Auburn, 
New York. Apples in a hundred or more 
choice and useful kinds were shown by the 
Messrs. Caunell and Hons, Eynsford, Kent. 
Notable varieties were Peasgood’s Nonsuch, 
Newton Wonder, The Queen, Emperor 
Alexander, Blenheim Orange, Bismarck, 
Clias. Ross. Royal Russett, Wellington—the 
finest samples of this variety, whether for 
size, colour, or finish, we have seen. Cox’s 
Orange, Beauty of Kent, Christmas Pear- 
main, Gascoigne's Scarlet, and .School¬ 
master were also good. The new Kliukert’s 
stove, for heating florists’ vans, small green¬ 
houses, etc., was shown by Mr. J. Klinkert, 
42. Beaumont avenue, Richmond. 

A list of the awards will be found in our 
advertising columns. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

Questions .—Queries and answers are inserted in 
Gardening free of charge if correspondents follow these 
rules: AU communications should he clearly and concisely 
written on one side of the paper only, and addressed to 
the Editor of Gardening, 17, Furnivalstreet, liolbom, 
Jjondon, E.C. Letters on business should be sent to the 
Publisher. The name and address of the sender are 
required in addition to any designation he may desire to 
be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, 
each should be on a separate jricce of paper , and not more 
than three queries should be sent at a time. Correspon¬ 
dents should bear in mind that, as Gardening has to be 
sent to press some time in advance of date, queries cannot 
always be replied to in the issue immediately following 
the receipt of their communication. We do not reply to 
queries by post. 

Naming fruit .—Readers who desire our help in 
naming fruit should bear in mind that several specimens 
in different stages of colour and size of the same kind 
greatly assist in its determination. We have received from 
several correspondents single specimens of fruits for 
■naming, these in mcCny cases Ming unripe and other¬ 
wise poor. The differences between varieties of fruits are 
in many cases so trifling that it is necessary that three 
t])ecimcns of each kind should be sent. We can undertake 
to name only four varieties at a time, and these only when 
the above directions are observed. 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

Growing water plants in porcelain sink 

{Glasgow).— No; such a receptacle would be of no use 
for water-plants, the depth and size being quite in¬ 
sufficient. It you want to grow such as Water Lilies, 
then you must procure half paraffin-casks, which 
answer well, and in which we have seen the smaller 
Water Lilies doing well. 

Habrothamnus. cutting down (.4. F. If 
the Habrothamnus needs cutting back severely, you 
can do so with safety, as it will quickly break out 
again into new growth. The best time to carry out 
the operation is early in March. Of course, we do not 
mean that you can cut it- to the ground, but it may 
be pruned back into the old wood without risk. 

Lygodium japonicum (.1. If.).—This, the com¬ 
monest kind, is easily grown in a vinery or cool- 
house, yielding an abundance of slender garlands, 
each 10 feet to 15 feet long, and fyrming very useful 
inntcriul for decoration. It is well to cut it down 
each spring. The value of its fronds for cutting lias 
caused it to be largely grown in gardens, but mostly 
under the name of L. scandens, which rightly belongs 
to quite a different plant. 

Droppings of fowls and weeds (F. R. M .).—If 
you turn your fowls on to your tennis-lawn you will 
find that the Daisies will grow all the stronger, for 
the droppings will not kill them. Your host remedy 
with regard to these is to spud or grub them out, 
fill the holes with fine soil, and sow Grass-seeds 
thereon the third week in March. The fact of the 
chicken-run being free from weeds is due to the fact 
of their being eaten by the poultry in their desire to 
obtain all the green food they can, and not to being 
killed by their droppings. If you were to take the 
fowls away, you would, we are afraid, find that weeds 
would soon appear and speedily run riot. 

Pruning climbing Roses at time of plant¬ 
ing (F. R. At.). -We do not recommend this being 
done to any great extent. We think that if the 
shoots are shortened at. time of planting to about 
one-third their length they should not. be pruned 
again in the spring. In March of the following year 
- that is, 1909—one or two of the oldest growths 
should be cut down to the ground, and this may be 
repeated each year, retaining the young growths to 
their full length. This cutting down of the old shoots 
favours the blurting of new growths from the base. 
If this were done more often than it is, then we 
should not see so many plants bare at the bases. 

Cinerarias failing (J . 11 S .).—Your Cinerarias 
have, undoubtedly, received some severe check, but 
what it is we arc quite unable to say. The fact that 
the blooms droop would, of course, suggest that the 
roots are in a bad state, but that may be caused in 
various \va\s They may have been kept too dry or 
too wet, while a deleterious substance of some kind 
rnay have got into tUu-^atcr and cadged the Injury 

Digitized by CjOOglC 


to the roots. Fumigation or an excess of atmospheric 
moisture or want of air will cause the leaves to die 
off as yours have done. Arum-leaves arc often 
attacked as yours are, and various theories have been 
put forward as the cause of the trouble, but it is 
generally thought to be of fungoid origin. At all 
events, the better way to combat it is to encourage 
good sturdy growth by allowing a free circulation of 
air and using stimulants sparingly. 

Pseonies, feeding (Letitia).-A good moist loam, 
trenched deeply and enriched with cow-manurc, is the 
soil best suited to them. The ground must be 
trenched to a depth of at least 2i feet, and plant at 
least 4 feet apart in every direction. You must not 
expect much bloom before the third year, and as soon 
as the flower-buds have well formed you should give 
occasional doses of liquid-manure or mulch with 
rotten manure and water freely if the weather is at 
all dry. Do not use pig-manure. For such a soil as 
you have, stable-manure, well rotted, forms the beat 
mulch. It is when plants arc growing freely that 
liquid-manure is most beneficial. An opeu position 
away from walls is the best for the Pieony. 

Maurandya Barclayana ill. 3/.).—This is a 
beautiful half-hardy climbing plant, well adapted for 
a greenhouse, window, or balcony. It grows rapidly 
in rich, light, sandy soil, and bears a profusion of 
large, violet-purple blossoms. Seeds sown in March 
in sandy soil in a warm house or frame will make 
good plants for flowering during summer and autumn. 
They must not, of course, be put out-of-door* till 
June, but for the window or greenhouse they may be 
planted in their flowering pots as soon as they are 
strong enough. Light, air, and sun are necessary to 
ensure their flowering satisfactorily. In some warm 
counties the Maurandya will withstand the winter, 
but in most gardens it requires the protection of a 
frame or greenhouse. 

Pentstemons from seed (R- B. C.).—The best 
way to manage these charming plants is to sow the 
seed rather early in the spring in a gentle warmth, 
hardening the seedlings off and planting out in May 
or June. Then they will all flower by the autumn, 
when cuttings may be taken from the best of them, 
and the rest be discarded. The seed must be got in 
under glass, either in a frame oyer a gentle hot-bed 
or on a greenhouse slidf. Fairly light and rich 
loamy soil will do, and a sheet of glass should be 
laid ove • the box or pan until the young plauts are 
up. Prick them olT when large enough, and finally 
plant out—18 inches apart—in good soil and an open 
situation. On a light, warm soil the old plants fre¬ 
quently survive the whiter, especially in. the south; 
but they are never to be depended upon, so that 
plenty of cuttings should be taken in September or 
October, and wintered in a cool house or frame. 
These will all flower well the following season. 

The Sweet-scented Verbena (Aloysia citrio- 
dora), propagating (B- V. Withnall ).—This is in¬ 
creased from cuttings after the manner of a Fuchsia 
—that is to say, if u plant is in the greenhouse, the 
young shoots that are produced in the spring make 
the best cuttings. They should be taken off at a 
length of 2 inches to 3 inches, the bottom leaves re¬ 
moved and dibbled iuto pots of sandy soil pressed 
down fairly firm. Place them in a close case, if pos¬ 
sible, in a slightly higher temperature than that in 
which the plants have been growing, and they will 
root in about three weeks. Towards the end of July 
or early in August cuttings may also be taken from 
outdoor plants, choosing the weak or moderately- 
vigorous shoots for the purpose. They should be 
given the same treatment us above detailed, except 
that they may be put into an ordinary garden-frame 
and shaded when necessary. Such cuttings root 
fairly well, but they cannot be depended on like those 
put in during the spring months. 

TREES AND SHRUBS. 

Trees, shrubs, and vegetables for elevated 
position (C. E. Af.).—Wc know the county of Surrey 
so well that we can say of it there seems to be no 
particular tree, shrub, fruit, or vegetable that will 
not thrive well in it. It seems to matter little 
whether elevated or low, the general growth is the 
same. But if the position be specially wind-swept, 
the best course is to plant on the windward side of 
the field, as it is at present, a belt of Scotch Fir or 
Austrian Pine. As the site is a field, no doubt it has 
been cultivated, though perhaps not deeply. Being 
on a clay base, some moderate drainage may be need¬ 
ful Then the whole should be dug deeply over at 
once if to be planted now. If not till next autumn, 
then have the grouud dug now all the same first, 
then in March, if practicable, give a dressing of short 
manure and fork it in. In April, plant with strong- 
growing Potatoes, using, if to be lmd, Irish seed- 
tubers. If the crop be kept clean, fine produce will 
result next autumn, and, when lifted, the ground will 
he in first-rate condition for planting or converting 
into both pleasure and kitchen-gardens, and, practic¬ 
ally, you may plant anything usually grown in 
gardens. Surrey is too far from the sea to be in¬ 
fluenced by saline winds. Its soil is singularly vari¬ 
able, yet seems, under fairly good culture, to grow 
almost anything. 

FRUIT. 

Caustic alkali solution (An Old Reader).--It 
you only wish to make a small quantity, dissolve 
i lb. of caustic soda in a gallon of water, then add 
j lb. of commercial potash (pearlash), stir well, then 
mix both, adding enough water to make 5 gallons of 
solution. Apply to large stems with a brush, and to 
the small branches in the form of a spray with a 
syringe or engine when the trees arc dormant, lake 
care it does not touch the bare hands or the clothes. 
You must also bear in mind that the above can only 
be used when the trees are at rest. 

Black Currant mite (Mrs. A. G. Bradley).—The 
buds on the Currant shoots that you send have been 
attacked bv the Currant-mite. The mites live in the 
buds, which swell and become rounded, but never 
open. When the mite i« first not iced, and then* i»r«* 


only a few* swollen buds on each bush, the attack 
may be checked by picking them olf and destroying 
them, and eases have occurred where this treatment 
has stumped out the pest; but in the majority of 
eases this method is useless, and the only thing to do 
is to pull up the bush and burn it, and dress the soil 
in which it grew heavily with lime. Do not plant 
other Currant-bushes on the same ground for two 
years. When buying new hushes be sure you obtain 
them from a source which is uut in any way con¬ 
taminated by these mites. 

VEGETABLES. 

The Chinese Artichoke (Stuehys tuberifera) 
l The Oaks ).—Fairly rich grouud is necessary for this, 
allowing a distance of from a foot, to 15 inches 
between each. The best way of planting is in drills 
about 4 inches deep, doing this In March. The tubers 
may be left in the ground, as the frost will not in¬ 
jure them. It is well, however, to lift a portion of 
the crop in November and lay them in moist soil or 
sand in ashed for use during frost. The best way of 
cooking the tubers is to first boil them and then fry 
them. 

Onions for market (ft'. E. B .).—Very flue storks 
of Onions for market culture are: Main Crop, Ban¬ 
bury Cross, N unchain Park, and Roush am Park Hero. 
We do not know the market price of seed, but you 
will do well to write to one of the London wholesale 
seed-house* for a price per pound. These varieties 
have brown-ski lined, flatfish, round bulbs, others 
having, as a rule, deeper or more globular bulbs; but 
still good old sorts are Bedfordshire Champion and 
James’s Keeping. More expensive, yet grand varieties 
to grow to get large, deep, oval bulbs, are: Ailsa 
Craig, Cranston's Excelsior, and Sutton's Globe. All 
these have brown skins. The best red variety is 
Crimson Globe, but that may not be a good market 
colour. All are good keepers if thoroughly ripened 
and well dried, then kept in a cool, dry store. Bo 
many so-called varieties of Onions, the distinction 
often being only in name, arc so good that special 
distinction is difficult. 


SHORT REPLIES. 


Jrcsine. — In the upland parts of California any of 
our plants would grow, but in the plains, we fear, it 
would be rather too warm. Many of our finest an¬ 
nuals come from California.- X. Y. Z.—“ The 

Tomato,” 5th edition, by W. Igguldeu. This can be 
obtained through any bookseller or from the Journal 
of Horticulture office, 12,Mitre-court,Fleet-street,E.C., 

post free, for Is. 2d.- M. Gunsoti .—The best edition 

is Syme’s, this being also the latest.-Amateur.— 

We should think the best plan would be to have one 
boiler capable of doing all the work, using valves for 
the two cooler houses and only turning the heat on 
when necessary. Another plan would fie to consult 
a liot-water engineer, who could see the place and 
advise what had best be done.——A Novice .—Please 
send a specimen of the branch you refer to as covered 
with green mould, and then we will do our best to 

help you.- Kirklynton .—Any fruit-tree nurseryman 

would possibly be able to supply the grafts you re¬ 
quire. Why not purchase a young tree?- Glengarry. 

—We certainly think that you could realise a man's 
wages from the extent of grouud you mention—that 
is, if you obtain the services of a thoroughly practi¬ 
cal man. Vegetable and fruit-growing should answer. 
— —American Blight.—Sue note on “ American blight,” 
in our issue of January 4th, p. 594. Bee also reply 
to “ Loher,” in our issue of January 18th, p. 628, re 
“ Canker in Apple-trees.”- V. E. Strickland. —Judg¬ 

ing from the description you give of the Potato- 
tubers, wc fear they have been frosted, and are of 

no further use.-- At. J. Wisbech .—The Logan Berry 

is increased from suckers in the same way us one 

would Raspberries.-.4/u».—Stir some lime ill among 

the leaves, and this will destroy any slugs that may 

be among them.- Scot .-Your best plan will be to 

write to the Secretary of the Canadian Government, 
17. Victoria-street, London, S.W. 


NAMES OF PLANTS AND FRUITS. 

Names of plants — Miss E. Prince .—We do not 

undertake to name florist flowers.- E. lligguwon.— 

Impossible to name from the dead specimen you send. 
Had you sent us a small piece of the live plant, then, 
possibly we could have helped you as to the Dame. 

- C. IF.—l, Evidently the leaf of a Cordynne; 

Tussilago l'arfara varlegata; 3, Fuchsia procumbens. 

— — 3/r«. Arthur Eastwood.—The Tree-Basil (Ocimuin 

gratissimuni); an annual plant., native of the East 
Indies. __ 

Catalogues received.—Sutton and Sous, Read" 

ing. — Garden Diary for 1008. -Howden and to., 

Inverness.— Garden Seeds for 1908. -Stuart anu 

Mein, Kelso.—Gardening Guide for 1908. —-Arnos 
Perrv, Enfield, Middlesex.— Special Offer of Seeds and 

List'of Lilies. -Henry Eckford, Wem, Salop.- 

Novelties in Sweet Peas. -Haage and Schmidt, Er¬ 
furt.—Seed Catalogue for 1908. -Geo. tooling and 

Son, Bath.— Spring Catalogue of Seeds for 1908.- 
T S. Ware ('02), Ltd., Felt ham, Middlesex.-1 eget- 
able and Flower Seeds and List of Tuberous Begomar. 
_II. N. Ellison, 5 and 7, Bull-street. West Brom¬ 
wich.-Scud and Bulb Catalogue. -Ant. Roozeli aim 

Son, Overveen, Haarlem, UoWanA.-Catalogue of 
Vegetable and Flower Seeds and Choice Bulbs jo 
C. Mountain, Constan mople. 

— Wholesale Price Lilt o 1 UuctUantoiu 

E, P. Dixon and Sons, ltd., Hull.-lut 0 / 

for IMS. -Barr and Sons King-strcet, 

Garden. W.C.-Illustrated Seed Guide or mos. 

X. L. All Seed Co.. Clarence Park. St. Albans. (0 

lone for IMS. -One and All. 82, Ions Acre, 

Gardener'.' labndar and Guide, IMS: I a the One 

amf Ml llirr , TOl'vwiHpj by j. Wl'iullt- 


IVERSI 


.LIMOIS 


URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


No. 1,508.— Vol. XXIX. 


Founded by W. Hobinxon, Author of “The English Floicer Garden." 


FEBRUARY 1, 1908. 


INDEX. 


AiliantumH, repotting.. 646 
Apricot, planting the .. «> 13 
Begonia Gloire ac Lor¬ 
raine, flowers of, 
dropping .. .. 652 

Begonia Gloire do Lor¬ 
raine, increasing .. C52 
Brussels Sprouts club¬ 
bing .650 

Carnation Marmion .. 646 
Celery, maggot in .. 650 
Chrysanthemum Kath¬ 
leen Thompson .. 649 
Chrysanthemum King 
of Plumes .. 649 

Chrysanthemums: what 
to do with rooted cut¬ 
tings .649 


Chrysanthemums .. 619 
Conservatory .. .. 650 

CystoDtem (British) .. 646 
Euonymus alatus .. 641 

Ferns .646 

Ferns from spores, rais¬ 
ing .646 

Flower garden pests .. 642 
Flower notes, hardy .. 618 
Flowers, arrangement of 649 
Flowers, white, for cut¬ 
ting .649 

Fruit .643 

Fruit-buds, birds and .. 642 
Fruit garden .. .. 651 

Fruit-trees for new gar¬ 
den .644 

Fruit-trees, Moss on .. 652 


Fruit-trees, planting .. 614 
Fruit-trees, the spray¬ 
ing of.614 

Fuchsias, increasing .. 652 
Garden diary, cxtntcts 
from a .. .. 651 

Garden pests and 

friends.642 

Garden work .. .. 650 

Genista fragrans, in¬ 
creasing, from cut¬ 
tings .652 

Gooseberry-shoots un¬ 
healthy .644 

Indoor plants .. .. 645 

Law and custom .. 651 
Morollo Cherry, pruning 
and training the .. 652 


Leptospermums, the .. 612 
Orange-trees, seedling.. 652 
Orchard-house .. .. 651 

Outdoor garden .. .. 651 

Outdoor plunts .. .. 647 

Parsleys.650 

Pavonias, the .. 645 

Pear Alexandrine Mas 643 
Pears, flavour in.. .. 644 

Pelargoniums, striking 
in spring .. .. 652 

Plants and flowers .. 645 
Plants, fine foliaged, in 
a moist corner.. .. 647 

Plants for window-box 

in shade.652 

Plants, herbaceous, from 
seed . 652 I 


Plants in cool conserva¬ 
tory, growing .. .. 645 

Plants in the houBe .. 651 
Plum and Cherry-treos, 
green and black-fly on 652 
Potatoes for planting .. 650 
Potato-ground, manur¬ 
ing .652 

Primulas failing.. 646 

Propagating-framo, how 
to manage a .. .. 645 

Rhododendrons and 

Lilies.647 

Room and window .. 649 
Saintpaulia ionantha, 
increasing .. .. 652 

Shrubs, winter-flower¬ 
ing .641 


Stems of plants, the 
beauty of .. .. 617 

KUmotaphrum glabrum Gl6 

Ktovo .650 

Strawberries, forcing .. 651 
Tomatoes, early .. .. 051 

Trees and shrubs .. dll 
Trees and shrubsof 1907 
—II., some new .. 641 
Vegetable garden .. 651 
Vegetables .. 650 

Vines, tying down and 

stopping.650 

Violets diseased.. .. 648 

Violets, treatment of .. 652 
Walnut-tree bleeding .. 652 
Week's work, the 
coming.651 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 

WINTER-FLOWERING SHRUBS. 

The winter is so commonly looked upon as 
a dead season that some at least will be sur¬ 
prised at the number of shrubs which flower 
during that period. Of the Heaths, tho 
pretty Erica mediterranea hybrids has been 
flowering since the early part of December, 
and its relative, Erica carnea, is now thickly 
studded with its rosy-purple blossoms. The 
white variety of this last is so apt to be dis¬ 
coloured by heavy rains that its ornamental 
features are much below those- of the type. 
Another Heath of which blossoms sometimes 
expand quite early in the New Year is Erica 
lusitaniea, often known in gardens as Erica 
codonodes. This is very liable to injury by 
a severe winter, but, given a mild one, it is 
an object of great beauty when laden with 
myriads of tiny, even-shaped blossoms of a 
wax like texture, and almost white in colour. 
The Witch Hazels (HaniHinelis), which were 
comparatively unknown a quarter of a cen¬ 
tury ago, are now justly recognised as the very 
best of our winter-flowering shrubs. True, 
one species, H. virginica, is a very old plant 
in gardens; but this flowers in November, 
and is not at all showy, wdiile the others, all 
natives of eastern Asia, bloom during the 
early months of the year. The oldest and 
the largest grower is H. arborea, whose 
curious starry blossoms, of a hue suggestive 
of golden-bronze, cause the leafless branches 
to glow with colour. Somewhat of the same 
tint, but less in stature, is H. japonica, whose 
variety Zuccariniana has lemon-tinted blos¬ 
soms. It i« for this reason quite distinct 
from the two preceding kinds, while a fourth 
—H. mollis, the most recently introduced of 
the genus—has large leaves and golden 
flowers, whose petals are less crisped than 
those of the others. Daphne Mezereum 
grandiflorum has been in bloom some time, 
and the typical form, with its white-flowered 
variety, is rapidly approaching that stage. 
The little, upright-growing Rhododendron 
dauricum, which grows wild on many of the 
«uow r -covered plains of northern Asia, will, 
if the frost is not too severe, give us many of 
its purple blossoms before the year is more 
than a month old. Given a mild winter, the 
LaurestinuK will continue to bloom through¬ 
out the whole season, while on a south wall 
other blossoms may be found. Chief among 
these are tho Winter Sweet (Chimonanthus 
fragrans) and its variety grandiflorus, both of 
which are remarkable for the delicious frag¬ 
rance of their blossoms. This latter charac¬ 
ter also occurs in the two nearly related 
Honeysuckles, Lonicera fragrantissima and 
Lonicera Standishii, both of which are 
natives of China, and both have white 
flowers. Some of th^B»rliest dowels of 
Cydonia japonica supply a h\\] eom{f>l[it^>f 
bright colouring, a.ncT^^inrdimc^-Vlf'rbre 


January has left us Berberis japonica un¬ 
folds a few' of its earliest pale yellow blos¬ 
soms. 

Among the very finest of winter-flowering 
shrubs must be placed the Winter Jessamine 
(Jasminuni nudiflorum), whose slender, 
gracefully disposed shoots are studded 
throughout tho greater part of the winter 
with bright golden-yellow flowers. Jas- 
minuin primalinum was at one time looked 
upon as a rival to the Winter Jessamine, but 
the older plant still holds its own. X. 


SOME NEW TREES AND SHRUBS OF 
1907.—IF. 

Pyrus (Cydonia) japonica Simoni.— 
There arc now innumerable varieties of this 
Pyrus in cultivation, that to which an award 
of merit was given on April 30th being by 
no means a novelty, but a particularly bright, 
richly-coloured form, with large blossoms, 
freely borne. 

Rhododendron Duke of Cornwall.— 
One of the many beautiful hybrids of Hima¬ 
layan species raised in the gardens of Mrs. 
R. Gill, Tremough, Cornwall, w'hero these 
beautiful shrubs thrive so well. As may bo 
understood by its parentage (R. arboreum 
and R. barbatuni), the flow r ers are gorgeous in 
their colouring. Award of merit March 
19th. 

Rhododendron Kewense.— This first 
flowered at Kew in 1888, the cross R. Auck- 
landii or Grifiithianum, as it is now called, 
and R. Hookerii having been made a dozen 
years or so previously. There are now in 
cultivation many forms of this hybrid, the 
flowers of most of them being pinkish, but 
some are of a deeper and others of a lighter 
hue. It lias proved to be quite hardy at 
Kew. Award of merit March 19th. 

Rhododendron intricatum. — When 
shown on April 2nd, a first-class certificate 
was given to this pretty little species from 
western China, with which everyone was de¬ 
lighted. It is quite a pigmy, flowering when 
but a few inches high, though we are told 
bv Mr. E. H. Wilson, who introduced it 
when travelling for Messrs. Veitch, that it 
reaches a height of 1 foot to 3 feet. It was 
exhibited under the name of R. nigro punc- 
tatum, but was afterwards proved to be a 
distinct species. For associating with the 
smaller-growing members of the genus it 
bids fair to be a decided acquisition, for it is 
said to have proved quite hardy at. Coorabe 
Wood. The flowers are £j*ch about it inch in 
diameter, deep lilac in c^ur, and borne in 
great profusion. a '‘ 

Rhododendron (Azalea) Mrs. Anthony 
Koster. —One of the numerous forms of 
Rhododendron (Azalea) molle or sinense, of 
which we have had many within the last 
few r years. Tho variety Mrs. Anthony Koster 
has large bold flowers, in colour" yellow, 
tinged with pink. An award of merit was 
given it at the Temple Show, where a fine 
group of different varieties frojp Messrs. 


Cuthbert, of Southgate, formed one of tho 
most brilliant features of the exhibition. 

Rubus bambusarum. —One of the many 
Brambles that we have received from China 
within the last few years. It produces long, 
trailing branches a dozen feet or so in length, 
clothed with very distinct foliage. Tho 
major portion of the leaves consists of but 
three leaflets, but there are occasionally five. 
Each leaflet is lance-shaped and smooth on 
the upper surface, while the lower is clothed 
with a thick brownish toineutum. This also 
occurs on the young shoots. The Bramble in 
question is said to produce its flowers in ter¬ 
minal racemes, while the fruit, black when 
ripe, is edible. Botanical certificate August 
20th. 

Syhinoa Jusikasa eximia.— A fine variety 
of tho Hungarian Lilac, which differs from 
the type in its large, pyramidal-shaped 
panicles of rich reddish-rose-coloured bios 
soms. This particular form was distributed 
by M. Lemoine, of Nancy, some years ago; 
but it is even now but little known. Bloom¬ 
ing as it does when the forms of the common 
Lilac are over, is an additional recommenda¬ 
tion. Award of merit June 11 Hi. 

ViBruNiiM RHYTIDOPHYLLUM. —A very dis¬ 
tinct species of Viburnum, and a striking 
evergreen shrub. The broadly lanceolate 
leaves are large, being each from 8 inches to 
9 inches in length, and 2 inches to 2^ inches 
in width. They are, on the upper surface, 
dark green and very much channelled, while 
the under side is covered with a dun-coloured 
tomentum. The flowers, borne in dense 
corymbs in May or June, are not particularly 
showy. They are yellowish-white in colour. 
The berries that succeed them become bright 
red in hue, changing afterwards to almost 
black. It was in this stage wdien a first-class 
certificate was awarded it on September 17th. 

Vitis leeoides.— From China we have 
had within late years many distinct and orna¬ 
mental members of the Vine family. In this, 
one of the most recent, the leaves are made, 
up of three or five oblong leaflets, green 
above and purplish underneath. As climb¬ 
ing plants for pergolas, etc., are now so much 
sought after, this will, doubtless, become 
popular. Award of merit October 1st. 

X. 

+ 

Euonymus alatus. —This autumn 1 ha\o 
been wonderfully impressed with the extreme 
beauty of Euonymus alatus, which I have 
planted in considerable number# in several 
places, especially iu Central Park. Tho 
colour is a deep red glow’, without any shade 
of purple or yellow, as nearly all other trees 
have. It is pure red, and one of the most re¬ 
markable rhades I ever saw. This year, al¬ 
though I have known it for many years, it 
seemed a revelation to me. I do wish you 
could see our autumnal.colours. I think you 
can hardly realise llow exquisite they are. 
Every year they are a# much a revelation to 
me as if I had never seen -them before. 

I Saml. Parsons, Xtw Y»r/-. 


























642 


GARB Em KG IL L USTRATED. 


Februart 1, 1908 


THE LEPTOSPERMUMS. 

The genus Leptospermum belongs to the 
great Myrtle family, and all its species, as 
far as I am aware, are natives of Australia, 
though one at least—viz., L. scoparium— 
occurs also in New Zealand. The nomen¬ 
clature of the whole of the Leptospermums is 
in a very confused state, many synonyms 
being referred to in the Kew Hand List. In 
general appearance, there is throughout the 
whole of them a strong family likeness, as 
they all form freely-branched shrubs, whose 
slender shoots, furnished with small 
leaves are, during the flowering season, ab¬ 
solutely laden with small white or pale 
pinkish blossoms. They are not much grown 
in pots, the most generally cultivated in that 
way being L. bullatum, a name, by the way, 
which I cannot find in any available book of 
reference. Of it neat flowering examples 
may be had in pots 5 inches in diameter, a 
great recommendation to the cultivator for 
market. It is, however, as shrubs in the open 
ground that the 
Lcpt ospermums 
are seen at their 
very best. As they 
are natives of Aus¬ 
tralia, it will be 
readily understood 
that, generally 
speaking, they are 
not hardy in this 
country, and, to 
see them as out¬ 
door shrubs, it 
will be necessary 
to pay a visit to 
the extreme south 
or west of Eng¬ 
land, the Welsh 
seaboard, that part 
of Scotland that 
receives the full 
influence of the 
Gulf Stream, and 
particularly to the 
sister isle, for in 
many parts of Ire¬ 
land. plants, ten¬ 
der in Great. Bri 
tain, except in its 
particularly fa 
voured spots, will 
grow luxuriantly. 

The accompanying 
illustration of L. 
lanigerum is from 
Kota Island. Cork. 

The illustration 
shows well the 
general character 
of a flowering 
spray oT all the 
L e p t o spermums. 

Their affinity to 
the Myrtle family 
is evident if the 
leaves are crushed 
between the fin¬ 
gers, as they give 
off a pleasing fra¬ 
grance, but much 
less pronounced 

than in the case of the common Myrtle. 
The best-known species are L. bullatum. 
above alluded to as useful for flowering 
in comparatively small pots; but, planted 
out at Castlcweilan, Lord Anncsley states it 
reaches a height of 10 feet; L. lievigatum, 
with smooth, oblong-shaped leaver, about 
£ inch in length, and flowers nearly the same 
in diameter; L. lanigerum, which in the Kew 
Hand List is referred to as L. pubescens. 
The flowers of this are white, and the pubes¬ 
cent character of its foliage forms a very dis¬ 
tinctive feature. Leptospermum scoparium is 
also a well-known species, sometimes met 
with under the name of Captain Cook’s Tea- 
plant, owing to the fact that its leaves have 
been used us a substitute for Tea. As above 
stated, Leptospermum scoparium is a native 
of New Zealand, as well as Australia, and in 
his “Traveller’s Notes,” the late Mr. J. II. 
Veiteli speaks thus of meeting with it in his 
travels in New ZodClar^d- I/> 

'* licyond llnnunga, we|4n|i rv is 

reached—poor land, appitFontly supp|f%ig nought but 
wild horses, for muqy miles we orou* through a 


dense growth of Manuka (Leptospermum scoparium), 
described as the most common plant in the colony. 
It covers hundreds of acres, ranging from half a foot 
to SO feet in height, and is said to be very effective 
from November to January, when it flowers in great 
profusion; at other times, the acres of peculiar grey- 
green are apt to weary the eye." 

There is in cultivation a very superior 
variety of Leptospermum scoparium, under 
the varietal name of grandiflorum. This, 
which was introduced from the Port Jackson 
district of Australia in the year 1817, is more 
sturdy-growing than the type, while the 
flowers are a little less than an inch in dia¬ 
meter, and of a pleasing shade of pink. This 
variety was at one time well grown in the 
Botanic Garden, Cambridge, and possibly is 
so still. __X. 

GARDEN PESTS AND FRIENDS. 

FLOWER GARDEN PESTS. 

By no means the least of the difficulties that 
the cultivator of plants has to contend with i6 



Flowering shoots of the Tea-tree of Australia (Leptospermum lanigerum). 


the number of different kinds of insects that 
feed on the objects of his rare, at times 
rendering all his efforts of no avail. To keep 
a garden tolerably free from insect pests is 
never an easy task, and in some seasons an 
utterly impossible one ; but a great deal may 
be done by a little well-directed care. Pre¬ 
vention is, of course, “much better than 
cure,” and a great deal may be done in this 
way by never allowing any weeds to grow in 
a garden. A weedy, uncared-for corner in a 
garden is a regular nursery for all sorts of 
insects. Rubbish, 6tones, and the refuse of a 
crop should never be allowed to lie about, 
as they form a welcome shelter to many kinds 
of pests. Anything taken from a plant that 
lias been attacked by an insect or fungus 
should at once be burnt. Some plants suffer 
most from the attacks of insects when they 
are quite young; in such cases the plants 
should be pushed into vigorous growth as 
quickly as possible by suitable cultivation. 
Birds should be encouraged in gardens. Few 
persons realise the enormous number of in¬ 


sects killed by them, especially during the 
breeding season, when nearly all the young 
birds are fed on animal food.' Toads also are 
most useful creatures in gardens, and should 
be encouraged far mote than they are. All 
dead leaves should be collected and burnt un¬ 
less they are required for leaf-mould, when 
they should be made into a heap as soon as 
possible. Any leaves that do not fall with 
the others should be picked off and burnt, as 
they often contain chrysalides. When borders 
are being dug a sharp look-out should be kept 
for chrysalides or cocoons which may be 
turned up. Any ground that is not in use 
should be kept well hoed and broken up. 
This will keep down weeds and expose to the 
birds any insects which may be in the soil. 

As soon as the attack of any insect is 
noticed, steps should at once be taken to 
check it, as in this case the old proverb, ‘‘A 
stitch in time eaves nine,” is especially true. 
If ants are seen running over plants, it is 
generally the case that the latter are in¬ 
fested by aphides or scale insects, and when 
ants make their nests at the roots of plants 
it will often be found that the roots are 
attacked by one of the root-feeding aphides. 

Insecticides act upon insects in different 
ways; some smother the insects by clogging 
their breathing apparatus, or by their action 
on their skins, others by poisoning their food. 
Those first mentioned should be used iu the 
ease of insects which feed by suction, the 
others when the insects have biting mouths. 
Insecticides, as a rule, have no effect on the 
eggs, so that it is always best in the case of 
insects that breed very rapidly to use them 
again in the course of a few days, and perhaps 
even a third time, so as to make sure that 
the pest ha6 been exterminated. There are 
now several kinds of spraying machines and 
spraying nozzles in the market. With them 
the insecticides can be used more economic¬ 
ally than with an ordinary syringe, and they 
can be applied with greater ease to the under¬ 
sides of the leaves, where the insects are, as a 
rule. 


BIRDS AND FRUIT BUDS. 

The time of year has again come round 
when it is necessary to keep a sharp look-out 
among our fruit-trees, or the prospects of a 
crop will be small, if the birds are allowed to 
do as they please. It is stone fruits princi¬ 
pally they attack, but I have seen Pear-trees 
suffer; and we all know the havoc tliev play 
among our bush fruits—more especially the 
Gooseberry. There are two or three wavs of 
lessening their attacks -bv shooting them, 
netting the wall and bush fruits, and syring¬ 
ing some obnoxious liquid over the buds, 
each one effective in its wav, if thoroughly 
done. Last spring l adopted the latter 
course, using Bentley’s mixture. This 
proved very effective, but it conies rather 
costly where there are many trees to do, and 
it is necessary to repeat it in some seasons. 
A cheap remedy is to completely wet Goose 
berry and Currant-bushes, and then dust 
them with lime and 60 ot. thoroughly mixed 
together, after being put through a fine-niesli 
sieve. It ruins nets to place them over 
Gooseberry-bushes. Doubtless, the best 
method is to enclose the quarter with small 
meshed wire netting, which prevents either 
buds or fruits being destroyed. This, al¬ 
though costly at first, is really the cheapest 
in the end. The worst of using a gun is that 
you arc^liable to damage the branches even 
with a small charge of shot, so that unless 
you can get the birds (and the tom-tits are 
the worst) away from the fruit-trees and 
bushes, the job is best left alone. The gar¬ 
dens that suffer most are those that adjoin 
woods, shrubberies, etc., where the birds 
quickly retreat after a shot or two, and are 
difficult to get at. During hard frost, and 
when the ground is covered with snow, which 
prevents the birds getting any food, is the 
time they molest the fruit-buds most; but 
this docs not mean they leave them alone 
during mild weather, so that to be on the 
6afe side it is wisest to protect each spring 
and iit good time. Black cotton over the 
tops of Gooseberry-bushes will scare the birds 
off , but it is c big jifb where the quarters are 
extensive. ' J. M. 



Febuuaki 1, 1908 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


043 


FRUIT. 

PEAR ALEXANDRINE MAS. 

ThIs fine late Pear, one of the varieties 
eeleeted by the Pomological Society of France, 
was raised from a pip of Passe Colmar in 1850 
by Alphonse Mas, who named it after his wife. 
It is not generally known, and we cannot 
find it listed by any of the leading fruit tree 
nurserymen in this country. The variety 
was exhibited by Andre Leroy, of the Angers 
Nurseries, France, at the Pear Conference 
held at Chiswick in 1885. The late Mr. 
Barron, in reference to this Pear, remarks: 
“Small, pyriform, irregular, green, with 
numerous dark russet spots; flesh sweet, 
melting, and pleasant,;” March to May being 
the time given as the period in which it is 
ripe. The fruit figured differs considerably 
from that shown at the conference, in that 
it is a very fine one, and was, we understand, 
grown on a heavy clay soil. A tree we have 
of Alexandrine Mas, which was supplied for 
Marie Benoist, and growing in a similar class 
of soil, always produces very fine fruits, the 


repair, particularly so as regards the coping, 
which should also project far enough beyond | 
the wall face, so that rain-water will be shed j 
clear of the trees while in bloom. Finally, 
there is the question of soil. Not only that 
at the top should be examined, but also 
to a depth of 3 feet. The exact nature of the 
soil will be revealed, and it will also be ascer¬ 
tained what steps, if any, it will be necessary 
to take in the way of affording drainage and 
preventing the possibility of the roots 
entering the subsoil where the latter consists 
of crude clay, or the situation is low-lying, 
and the lower stratum subject to being 
charged with moisture at certain seasons. 

The Apricot requires all the warmth and 
sunshine it can possibly get in this country, 
and walls having aspects ranging between that | 
of south-east to that of due west, will answer ' 
well. The earliest fruits are, as a matter of 
course, obtained from trees occupying a full 
southern exposure; but, unless well pro- i 
tected, there is greater danger of the blos¬ 
soms suffering from spring frosts both on this 
and a south-eastern aspect than on one facing 
due west, owing to the blooms in the last 
ease not coming under the influence of the 


the coping and allowed to project about 
9 inches. Another plan, and a good one, 
too, is to fix 1-inch boards, 9 inches in width, 
under the edge of the coping, using iron 
brackets to hold them in place. If kept 
painted, they last for years, and prove use¬ 
ful to attach poles, netting, and the appara¬ 
tus for the raising and lowering of the blinds. 
Therefore, all work of this description should 
have attention, and, when completed, give 
the wall, as a final measure, a coating of 
lime-wash, in which sufficient Venetian red 
has been well mixed to render the colour 
when dry a warm old brick-red. 

Coming next to the question of soil, it is 
in but few places that the staple is found 
exactly suited to the requirements of the 
Apricot, and corrections and additions have 
generally to he made. A deep, warm, cal¬ 
careous loam, of not too heavy a nature, suits 
this fruit best, and in such a medium the 
trees make hard, short-jointed growth, set¬ 
ting a profusion of fiower-buds, and, barring 
accidents in the shape of spring frosts, always 
bearing good crops. In soils where lime is 
deficient it must always be supplied in the 
shape of lime rubbish or chalk in the soil, 



Pear Alexandrine Mas. 


majority being exactly like the one here 
figured. This tree is standard-trained on the 
Pear, and growing against a disused Hop-kiln, 
and it never fails to bear. It is quite the 
middle of March before the fruits are ripe, 
and the flavour is very good for such a late 
variety. The tree alluded to is healthy and 
vigorous, and produces an abundance of 
fruit-buds. It is only in the warmer parts 
of this country where it would he likely to 
succeed, and must then have the protection 
of a wall. It succeeds fairly well on the 
Quince, but is evidently best worked on the 
Pear-stock. 


PLANTING THE APRICOT. 

Those who are contemplating the planting 
of Apricot-trees, should, before doing so, 
take the following matters into consideration. 
In the first place, they should see that the 
position, whieli they have, perhaps, only 
mentally fixed upon for planting, is such that 
the trees will receive the proper amount of 
warmth and shelter necessary to their suc¬ 
cessful cultivation. Then it should lie ascer¬ 
tained whether the wall against which the 
trees will be trained is in a good stale of 

Digitizes by Google 


sun’s rays until the frost has been dissipated 
by the rising of the temperature. This, then, 
should receive due consideration, and if 
there is no prospect of a more efficient protec¬ 
tion than netting being afforded the trees, it 
is wise to choose a south-west or west aspect. 
Another way of successfully growing the 
Apricot is in utilising any blank walls on 
dwelling-houses or buildings, where, if the 
position or aspect is right, they invariably 
do well, which fact is, as a rule, owing in no 
small measure to the eaves projecting much 
farther than is the ease with garden wall 
copings. 

The next thing is to put the wall in a 
thorough state of repair should the face and 
mortar-courses be full of holes, for these 
afford hiding and breeding-places for insecls, 
of which woodlice prove extremely trouble¬ 
some when the fruits are ripening. Employ 
good mortar, or half of the latter and onc- 
half cement, and for making good the joints 
of the coping-stones or tiles, as the case may , 
be, use best cement or white lead. In the | 
event of the coping projecting beyond I he. 
face of the wall a few inches only, the 
difficulty can be overcome by using common 
roofing slates, which should be inserted under 


and from the surface during the growing 
period in the form of a phosphatic manure. 
Animal manure should never be added to 
the soil, and when the soil needs enrichment, 
it is far better to use £-inch bones and bone- 
meal. Soils inclined to be very strong or 
of a clayey nature should, in addition to the 
| lime rubbish, be fortified with wood-ashes 
and burnt soil. On the other hand, light 
and sandy soils are all the better for an addi- 
j tion of heavy loam, marl, or even clay, so 
long as it is first dried and then finely disin¬ 
tegrated before mixing it with the staple. In 
alL cases where the soil is unsuitable, take 
out a hole 3 feet deep and not less than G feet 
in diameter. If not necessary to concrete 
the base, which can be ascertained by noting 
whether water rises or not after the excava¬ 
tion is completed, put in a 6-inch layer of 
brick rubbish if the subsoil is of clay, and 
ram it down firmly. Then return the soil, 
after adding the necessary correctives to it.. 
make firm by treading, if fairly dry; blit if 
the soil is inclined to be on the wet side, 
avoid treading on it more than can he helped. 
In the event of fresh compost having to he 
provided, and if many trees are to be planted, 
it will econorarro HStfwia'l-tfo'make the border 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 









GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Fedhuaiit 1, 1908 


(U4 


for them by instalments, in the same manner 
as Vine-borders are constructed. Additions 
can then be made as required in the future. 
Water-laden subsoils must, in any case, be 
well drained, in order to remove all danger 
of the soil about the roots becoming wet and 
sour, conditions which are most inimical to 
the welfare of the Apricot. A. W. . 


FRUITTREES FOR NEW GARDEN. 

] am going into a new house next month, and the 
gulden is hounded on three sides—north, east, and 
west—by a high wall. I am thinking of planting 
some Apple, Pear, Plum, and Morello Cherry-trees, 
and on one side Rose-trees. Am I right? If so, be 
pood enough to give me the names of some good 
ones, also of some good Gooseberry, Red and White 
Cu i ran t -t rccs ?—Li scard. 

[Unless you have no other convenience for 
growing Roses, or arc anxious to have wall- 
trained examples, we counsel you to devote 
the whole of the wall space to*fruit cultiva¬ 
tion. As you give neither the height nor 
length of each portion of the wall, we are 
unable to state for your guidance the num¬ 
ber of trees you will require, so can only 
name the proper distances at which they 
should he planted, together with a .selection 
<»r varieties or the kinds of fruit you stipu¬ 
late for, suitable for each particular aspect. 
Before giving these details, we may say that 
on the wall facing east you may grow early 
Blums, early Pears, dessert Cherries, and 
Apples, On the wall facing west we should 
advise this being devoted to mid-season 
and late Pears and late Plums. The one 
having a northern aspect would be suitable 
for Morello Cherries, Red and White Cur¬ 
rants, and Gooseberries. Wall trees, 
whether fan or diagonally trained, should 
stand 15 feet apart, and if the wall is of 
such a height that a standard-trained tree 
is required to be planted between every two 
of the first-named to furnish the upper por¬ 
tion of the wall, they should stand 20 feet 
apart. At 15 feet apart a cordon-trained 
tree may be planted between each pair of 
fan or diagonal-trained trees with advantage, 
as these not only serve to furnish the wall the 
more quickly, but. greatly enhance the yield 
of fruit. The Currants and Gooseberries 
should be in the form of cordons, having 
from two to three stems apiece, and plant 
them between the Morello Cherries. 

Fruit-trees for wall facing east.— 
Apples: Beauty of Bath, James Grieve, 
Cox’s Orange, ‘Ribston, Allington Pippin, 
Scarlet Nonpareil, Claygate Pearmain, as 
dessert kinds. Of cooking varieties, Pott’s 
Seedling, Golden Spire, Bismarck, Newton 
Wonder, Prince Albert. Of Pears : Summer 
Beurre d’Aremberg, Williams’ Bon Chretien, 
Beurre Giffard, Beurre d’Amanlis, Louise 
Bonne, Durondeau. Dessert Cherries: 
Early Rivers, May Duke, Frogmore Bigar- 
reau, Empress Eugenie, Amber Heart. 
Geant d’Hildefingen. Plums : Early Pro¬ 
lific, Early Transparent Gage, Oullin’s 
Golden Gage, Denniston’s Superb, Bonne 
Bouche Gage, and Victoria. 

For the wall facing west.— Pears: 
Marie Louise, Doyenne du Comice, Beurre 
Superfin, Winter Nelis, Beurre de Jonglio, 
Josephine de Malines. Plums: Jefferson, 
Comte d’Altliam’s Gage, Kirke’s, Monarch, 
Coe’s Golden Drop, Late Transparent Gage, 
Primate, and Pond’s Seedling. 

For the north wall.— Morello Cherries, 
Raby Castle Red Currant, White Dutch and 
Transparent as white varieties. All the 
fruits to be grown on this wall will, if netted, 
keep in good condition for a long period, if 
desired, after becoming ripe. Of Gooseber¬ 
ries, Langley Green, Pitmaston Greengage. 
Glenton Green, Telegraph. Early Kent, and 
Thumper are six good green varieties. Of 
red sorts, Crown Bob, Ironmonger, Scottish 
Nutmeg, Lancashire Lad, Red Champagne, 
Wliinham’s Industry, and Warrington are 
seven excellent sorts. Of white kinds, there 
are Whitesmith, Hero of the Nile. Queen of 
Trumps, and Cheshire Lass. Seven good 
yellow varieties are Langley Beauty, Leader, 
Early Sulphur, Catherina, Broom Girl, 
Keepsake, and Leveller. The reason why so 
many Gooseberries are named is that you 
do not say for which purpose you require 
them, whether as bushes in the open or to 
grow against a wall. For the latter purpose 
employ Warrington in quantity ns a red 

Digitized by Google 


variety, this being second to none for quality, 
flavour, and good keeping properties 

Roses for wall. —Should you still be de¬ 
sirous of having a wall clothed with Roses, 
select the one facing east for the purpose. 
As you state the wall is a high one, you 
will necessarily require strong growers to 
clothe it, and we herewith name a few for 
you to select from: Dorothy Perkins, pink; 
Alberic Barbier, creamy-white; Noella Na- 
bonnand, crimson; Cheshunt Hybrid, red; 
W. A. Richardson, nankeen-yellow; Bil 
liard et. Barre, rich yellow; Maharajah, deep 
crimson, semi-double; Mine. A. Carriere, 
creamy-white; Climbing Caroline Testout, 
shell-pink; Alister Stella Gray, pale yellow ; 
Longworth Rambler, cerise; Gloire de 
Dijon, fawn, shaded salmon ; Climbing Mrs. 
W. J. Grant, carmine; Rene Andre, saffron; 
and Fclicitc Perpetue, white.] 


FLAVOUR IN PEARS. 

There is much truth in what J. Crook says 
in regard to the influence of soil on tfie 
flavour of Pears. Heavy clay soils, unless 
they have some corrective, such as charred 
refuse or burnt clay, lime rubble, or other 
similar material, added, are not very well 
suited to any of the larger fruits—Apples, 
Pears, Peaches, Figs, etc. I have recollec¬ 
tions of Apricots doing better in land that is 
heavy than in gardens having a lighter soil, 
hut these fruits have certain peculiarities 
that are not well understood or easily catered 
for. On warm, deep soils there is no doubt 
that Pears are more full flavoured than from 
heavy clay soils. Not only is this so, but 
there is more certainty of crop, with corre¬ 
spondingly less labour in dealing with the 
roots. Ne Plus Meuris, mentioned by J. 
Crook, is an undersized late winter fruit, 
which I find most useful—indeed, indispen¬ 
sable—because so few others keep so long 
once they have ripened. There is, too, a long 
succession from a crop of this variety, which 
is so convenient when the supply has been 
reduced to one or a very few sorts. From 
my experience, it cannot lay claim to high 
flavour, but it must be admitted in justice to 
the Pear that my fruits come from a rather 
old tree. Mv young trees have not yet 
attained to fruiting size. I find that young 
Pear-trees, with their roots working near 
the surface, not only give larger, but finer 
flavoured fruits. Easter Beurre, in my light 
soil, has a rather thin flavour, and is useful 
more as a late Pear than a pleasingly fla¬ 
voured one. In some gardens I know it is 
highly valued, both for its crop and flavour. 
To grow good Pears in land that is not natu¬ 
rally suited, one must prepare stations for 
planting. With such provision there need 
be no doubt about the ultimate result. 
Draining of the bottom of the border is a 
matter of some importance in Pear planting, 
and it will be imperative that root examina¬ 
tion be periodically made. Of course, not 
everyone is able to make borders for Pears; 
but where this cannot be done, some modifi¬ 
cation of the selected stations can be made by 
incorporation of root-forming materials, such 
as those already mentioned, together with 
leaf-mould, decayed manure, or coarse bones. 

West Wilts. 


PLANTING FRUIT-TREES. 

A reasonable time must he allowed after a 
change to milder weather before any attempt 
is made to plant, severe frost, such as we 
have lately had. making the ground cold and 
wet for some length of time. From the 
middle of February to the end of March is a 
suitable date if the weather can be got to 
dry the soil so that it can be freely trodden 
upon, as a loosely planted tree seldom makes 
much of a specimen—in fact, it usually ends 
in failure. Undoubtedly autumn is the best 
time to transplant, as the soil is then warmer, 
and the roots have a chance to callus, if not 
actually lay hold of the soil (which not a few' 
challenge) before severe frost sets in. With 
a retentive soil, it is somewhat difficult to get 
it to one’s liking— either too wet or too hard 
and dry—so that it is necessary to watch the 
opportunity, and catch it l>etween the two 
extremes. Those having such soils to deal 
with should endeavour to procure some dry, 
friable compost to shake in among the roots, 


only moderately treading the ground when 
filling in, further firming it when the soil is 
in a better working condition. Those kinds 
of fruit that expand their blossoms early 
should first claim attention, as too much care 
cannot be bostowed on spreading out the 
roots, after cutting away any mutilated por¬ 
tions or sucker shoots, sometimes found on 
the upper part of the roots. Deep planting is 
an evil to be avoided, some 4 inches of soil 
being ample over the last tier of roots. Do 
not neglect, to securely stake each tree 
planted in the open garden, as no tree can 
make headway that is swayed by the wind. 
Labelling is another matter often omitted. 
The name often gets obliterated with the 
weather, and no one can take such a keen 
interest in unnamed fruit-trees as in those 
that arc correctly labelled. The shortening 
of undue growths should bo delayed as late 
as possible. With trees planted in spring, it 
xvould be better if such could be done in the 
early autumn previous, but this cannot be 
expected from nurserymen who grow for sale 
only. J. Mayne. 

Jiirton, Devon. 

THE SPRAYING OF FRUIT-TREES. 

To be of any real value for the destruction 
of insect life, spraying must he done an¬ 
nually, and the present is a suitable time to 
begin operations. The caustic soda solution, 
the recipe for which has been frequently 
given in these pages, has proved to be one of 
the best insecticides for the purpose, and, 
moreover, it is, as regards price, within the 
reach of all who wish to excel in fruit-grow¬ 
ing. This is of a poisonous nature, and must 
be put on before the buds begin to unfold, 
or much damage would be done to the tender 
foliage and flowers. There are other weaker 
insecticides that may be safely used later in 
the season, such as Abol, paraffin emulsion, 
Quassia extract, and several others, all 
tending to make the surroundings of 
the pests that attack fruit - trees dis¬ 
tasteful and obnoxious to them that escape, 
and any that appear after. To be effectual, 
this spraying must he thoroughly done, every 
particle of wood, branch, and bark soaked 
with, the liquid, which can only be done on a 
very calm day, and the finer the spray can 
be put on, the better. Care must be taken 
when using these poisonous mixtures, or the 
skin will suffer, and, if used on trees growing 
on turf, poultry and cattle must be kept off; 
and tliis is why many arc deterred from using 
them in the garden, as usually vegetables 
occupy the space between the fruit-trees. 
Where it is not safe to use them, the trunks 
and larger branches should be painted with 
lime, sulphur, soot, and a little Quassia or 
paraffin mixed with the water. Knapsack 
sprayers are very suitable for small trees and 
reasonable in cost. With the syringe, much 
of the liquid is sure to be wasted, but garden 
engines having a very fine spraying jet can be 
used, and are convenient for moving from 
tree to tree. Some lose heart after spraying 
one season, but as before mentioned, it is 
work that must be persevered with year after 
year, then it will be seen that the efforts are 
being rewarded in better crops, cleaner fruit, 
and much healthier trees—in short, good re¬ 
sults all round. 

Devonian. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Gooseberry-shoot* unhealthy.—I am forward¬ 
ing you u twig from one of my Gooseberry-bushes, 
which I suspect suffers from American blight. .My 
fluspicions were aroused after reading an article in 
Gardening Illustrated, January 4th, but I am in 
doubt as to whether it really does suffer from it. 
because I am only a novice at gardening. Will you 
please enlighten me as to the condition of the en¬ 
closed twig, and if it has the blight? Will you please 
suggest a remedy?—O ne in Doubt. 

[The twigs from your Gooseberry-bush do 
not show any signs of American blight, and 
it is most unlikely that they should be at¬ 
tacked by that insect, which is not known as 
a pest on Gooseberry-bushes. The rough 
excrescences arc not uncommon on many 
plants, but the cause of their growth is not. 
known. One of the stems had been bored by 
some insect.probably by a caterpillar of tho 
Currant clearwing moth (Sesix tipuliforme). 

— G. S. S.] i 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN ' 




Fkdiwaiiy 1, 190B 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


645 



PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

INDOOR PLANTS. 

THE PAVONIAS. 

About thirty years ago Pavonia Wioti was 
introduced from Brazil, and. being easily in¬ 
creased and grown, as well as a striking 
plant when in bloom, it soon became fairly 
popular. This did not. however, last long, 
and it is now very rarely met with, blit this 
winter a descendant therefrom (Pavonia 
intermedia kermcsina) ims been exhibited in 
the form of well-flowered examples by Messrs. 
Veitch, of Chelsea, and bids fair to become 
more generally grown for flowering under 
glass during the dull season of the year. 
The accompanying illustration will give one 


a better idea of Pavonias in general than a 
long description. 

Pavonia Wioti, the oldest form, is an up¬ 
right-growing plant of a shrubby character, 
clothed witli pointed, ovate leaves, toothed 
along the margins. These leaves are, as a 
rule, from 6 inches to 8 inches in length. The 
outer calyx of the flower is cut up into long, 
narrow stri|)s of a bright rosy-red colour. 
Inside of this is the dark, purplish corolla, 
and the stamens, united into a column, pro¬ 
trude a little beyond. The blue anthers with 
which they are terminated are very notice¬ 
able. The general appearance of the flower 
suggests an Abutilon ; in fact, botli are 
members of the same order—viz., Malvacom. 

Pavonia Makoyana was introduced soon 
after the preceding. The flowers, like those 
of the last, are borne in terminnl corymbs, 
but they differ from those of P. Wioti in the 
bright rosy-red bracts being much less cut, 
while the interior of the flower is of a very 
deep purjde. As an ornamental plant, it is 

Digitized by GOOglC 


I scarcely the equal of P. Wioti, and, like that, 

I is now rarely 6een. 

These two species had not been long in 
' cultivation when they were taken in hand by 
M. Lemoine, of Nancy, who from them 
raised several forms more or less distinct. 
The first, P. intermedia, was distributed in 
1884, followed by P. intermedia floribunda 
and P. intermedia rosea. In the autumn of 
1892 the variety kermesina was put into 
I commerce, and this seemed to drop out of 
| cultivation till taken up bv Messrs. Veitch. | 
This has the bracts longer and brighter j 
I coloured than in I*. Wioti, while the | 
interior of the flower is of a richer tint. In 
I the two lowest left-hand flowers of the illus¬ 
tration the curious way in which the stamens 
are collected together and the conspicuous 
feature they form is well shown. 

By some botanical authorities the genus 


Pavonia has been eliminated, and the dif¬ 
ferent species merged into that of Gcethea. 
It ie a case of doctors differing, and any 
attempt to unravel the matter will prove 
puzzling. For instance, the “Kew Hand 
List of Tender Dicotyledons,” a compara¬ 
tively recent work, gives but one species of 
Pavonia—viz., P. multiflora, of which P. 
Wioti is quoted as a synonym. Strange to 
sav, the nearly-related P. Makoyana, and the 
hybrids raised between that species and P. 
Wioti are all included in the genus Goethea. 

Culture.—A s might be supposed from the 
fact that the original species came from 
Brazil, these Pavonias are warm-house 
plants, and need the coolest part of the 
stove—or, at least, the intermediate-house— 
for their successful culture. Like Mnlvaee- 
0U8 plants in general, they are very easily 
struck from cuttings, and grow away freely 
afterwards. If struck in the spring or early 
summer, they will form effective flowering 
plants by winter. The main object in their 


culture is to encourage good, stout, sturdy 
| growth, for these Pavonias are not naturally 
branching, and any attempt to form bushy 
specimens by pinching will only end in 
failure. In this respect they resemble the 
Aphelandras, which are most effective when 
carrying one head of blossom. Neat flower¬ 
ing examples of the Pavonias may be grown 
in 5-incli pots. Potting compost suitable to 
the general run of greenhouse plants will suit 
them well, and when the pots are well fur¬ 
nished with roots a little weak manure-water 
occasionally will be helpful. X. 

GROWING PLANTS IN COOL 
CONSERVATORY. 

To the Editor of Gardening Illustrated. 

Sir, —I have taken in your paper for more 
than twenty years, and owe much to it, for it 
has taught me a great deal. I am very fond 
of gardening, and do a great deal of the work 
myself. May I venture to send you my ex¬ 
perience with Amaryllis, to encourage small 
growers who, like myself, have no hot house? 
I have a half-span conservatory, leading out 
of my dining-room. It is heated, but the 
boiler is not large enough to do more than 
keep out the frost. I have several Amary¬ 
llises; one A. Johnsoni, for which I paid 
3s. 6d., the others I had as seedlings from 
Holland. I pot them up firmly in well- 
drained pots, and place them on a shelf sus¬ 
pended close to the glass. There I leave 
them all the summer, watering them just, 
enough to keep them growing. I never dry 
them off, and. only repot when quite pot- 
bound. In the autumn I examine them, 
wash the pots, and fill them up witli a little 
good soil, replacing them on the shelf and 
giving but little water. They are looked at 
once a week, when my gardener gets nt the 
high shelf, which I cannot do. Yesterday 
(January 20th) he took down three plants 
with fine buds and thick, glossy, dark green 
leaves. I shall now water freely, giving a 
different kind of artificial manure every few 
days. The bulbs flower every year; the 
stems are tall, strong, and beautifully 
coloured. This is in a greenhouse which is 
seldom above 40 degs. in the winter nights. 
I put Achimenes, Freesias, and Lachcnalias 
up on the shelf to dry off all the summer, and 
I have the two latter full of flower-buds now, 
also Imantophyllunis with huge spikes of 
flowers just snowing colour. I tried last year 
to cross an Imantophyllum with an Ama¬ 
ryllis, but the seeds did not set. This year I 
shall reverse the process, as the Amaryllis 
seeds always set. Do you think there is any 
chance of success? One is a bulbous, the 
other a fibrous-rooted plant, but an Imanto¬ 
phyllum with a flower in clusters of a bright 
crimson, and the shape of an Amaryllis, 
would be beautiful. 

I noticed a list of flowers which was given 
some months ago (my numbers are all gone to 
be bound) which could lie grown in a cool 
greenhouse. I think many more would 
answer well if the house were kept perfectly 
clean, the pots clean, all dead leaves re¬ 
moved, and the house well ventilated. 

Constance Hole. 

Hole Cottage, Exbourne , Devon. 

[We do not for a moment think it is pos¬ 
sible to cross the Imantophyllum with an 
Amaryllis, as they are so dissimilar in every 
way, particularly the roots.—E d.] 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

How to manage a propagating-frame. — I havo 
a little propagating-frame in my *tovc. I would he 
much obliged if you would let me know bow to 
manage It? I have some Coeoa-nut-flhre in it. I 
would like to strike sucli tilings as Petunias, Coleus, 
etc. Would they strike in the Coena-nut-libre, or 
should I plunge the pots in the fibre? Would you 
please tell me how 1 should water and syringe?— 
J. HBATON. 

[Wo do not know in what part of your stove 
the propagating frame is situated, but if it is 
intended, as you say, for the propagation of 
Petunias, Coleus, and such like, it must bo 
placed in the coolest part of the structure. 
Cuttings of the two subjects just named and 
all similar things should only he kept from 
8 degs. to 10 degs. warmer than the grown¬ 
up plants require. The cuttings will root 
readily if just stuck in the Cocoa-nut-refuse, 
blit we do not strongly advise this plan, as the 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


Pavonia intermedia kermedna. From a photograph in Messrs. Veitch and Son’s nursery nt Feltham. 




616 


GARDENING IL L USTIL4TED. 


FeBIIUAKY 1 , 1908 


delicate roots are so easily injured in potting 
them off. Better put the cuttings into potB 
from 4 inches to 5 inches in diameter, each 
pot containing from four to eight cuttings, 
according to their siac. The best soil for 
the cuttings is a mixture of equal parts of 
loam, peat, or leaf mould, and silver-sand, the 
whole being thoroughly mixed together, and 
then passed through a sieve with a mesh of 
one-quarter or one third of an inch. The 
pots prepared for the cuttings should be 
clean and well drained, ami then filled with 
the .just-named mixture, made level, and 
pressed down slightly. Into this the cuttings 
must be dibbled, and when the pots are filled, 
they should be thoroughly watered through 
a fine rose, enough being given to settle all 
the soil in its place. After draining for half 
an hour or so, they must be put into the pro¬ 
pagating frame. For such subjects as those 
named by you, we should not advise you to 
plunge the pots, but simply stand them oil the 
surface of the Cocoa-nut-fibre. The reason 
of this is that too much bottom heat will 
cause many of the young, succulent cuttings 
to damp off, and even if this does not happen 
directly they root, they draw up weak. The 
great advantage of having the cuttings in pots 
is, immediately they strike, they can be re¬ 
moved to a cooler structure, thus ensuring 
sturdy growth. Do not water until the soil 
needs it, and if a good watering is given at 
first, it. will be some days, probably nearly a 
week, till any more is required. The cut¬ 
tings must certainly not be syringed. The 
light of the propagating frame should be 
opened for an hour or so every morning be¬ 
fore the sun is powerful, in order to dry up 
any superabundant moisture, and also to 
allow of the cuttings being examined. Any 
signs of decay must bo at once removed, as 
in the close atmosphere it quickly spreads. 
The light must be shaded from direct sun¬ 
shine. The selection of the cuttings is also 
an important matter, as in this respect mis¬ 
takes are often made. From February on¬ 
ward throughout the spring months the best 
cuttings are formed of the current season’s 
shoots, taken as soon as they have reached a 
length of 2 inches to 3 inches. The bottom 
leaves must be removed for about one-third 
of their length, leaving the remaining two- 
thirde untouched. In dibbling the cuttings 
into the soil, they should be buried just as 
far as the leaves have been removed, but no 
deeper. By attending to these few simple 
instructions, you will find that striking cut¬ 
tings of many plants is a comparatively easy 
matter.] 

Primulas falling —Will you kindly let me know 
why my Primulas all seem top-heavy? The flowers 
arc poor, the foliage is heavy, and the root does not 
seem strong enough to support the plant, which 
wobbles about and looks as if it would break off at 
the root. The root-stem is very thin. The size of the 
pot. across is 4 inches. Can it be that the pot is too 
small?—A. F. 0. 

[The main cause of the trouble with your 
Primulas is that they are practically starved, 
and the top-heavy character of the plants 
would suggest that they were crowded up 
during their early stages, and consequently 
got weak just at the collar. The pots should 
lie at least 4J inches to 5 inches in diameter, 
and the same in height. Primulas, too, are 
liberal feeders, and need a soil made up of 
loam, leaf-mould, dried cow-manure, and 
sand. while, when the pots get full of roots, 
liquid-manure is beneficial. Above all, care 
must he taken that they are not drawn in any 
way, and that their handsome leafage has 
ample space to develop.] 

Stenotaphrum glabrum.— Th is is a very 
pretty subject for growing in a suspended 
basket in the greenhouse, as it will flourish 
under none too favourable conditions, and 
hang down for a considerable distance. It is 
sometimes referred to as the Australian Buf¬ 
falo Grass, though one of its names—Stem* 
taphrum amcricanum—would suggest that it 
is a native of the New World. Under favour¬ 
able conditions this Grass is of rapid growth, 
pushing out long, thong-like stolons, which 
root at every node, and produce a tuft of 
leaves there. In a basket these stolons will 
hang down for 4 feet or 5 feet, and, the tufts 
of leaves being disposed at almost regular in¬ 
tervals, have a very pretty effect. There is a 
variety whose leaves are striped with white, 
but it always has a tendency to revert to the 
normal gre *n leaved form. This Grass may 

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be employed for purposes other than that 
above indicated—for instance, as an edging 
to stages or for clothing the ground under¬ 
neath. It has the advantage of being con¬ 
tent with a very shallow rooting medium. 
Again, it has been used at Kew ns a carpet- 
plant for summer bedding. Under such con¬ 
ditions it grew quickly, and formed a very 
effective carpet to some bright-coloured 
Pelargoniums arranged thinly over it. This 
Stenotaphrum can be increased as rapidly as 
the variegated-leaved Panicum, so much used 
in greenhouses, while it is also hardier.—X. 

Carnation Marmion.— In some respects 
this is a very remarkable Carnation, showy 
beyond all doubt, large, and useful for cut¬ 
ting when artificial light is employed. As 
seen, the large, handsome blossoms at once 
arrest attention, the rich colouring being 
especially admired. The variety in question 
belongs to the Malmaison group of Carna¬ 
tions, but in colour is widely distinct from 
any of this section. Apart from colour, the 
variety has more than ordinary claims to 
notice, by reason oL the fact that it is also 
a winter-flowering variety, provided it be 
grown in a district where much sunlight pre¬ 
vails. In Guernsey and such-like places this 
variety is a success, but near London it is 
highly improbable that it would succeed so 
w r ell. It is not, like so many of the so-called 
Malmaisons, a half-bred, but a Malmaison 
not only in pod, petal, and blossom, but in 
stem and habit—in short, a true Malmaison. 
The large, spreading blossoms are of a heavy 
crimson-scarlet over a white ground, the 
latter unseen by reason of the strong colour¬ 
ing, while there is a broad marginal band of 
nearly pure white. Its strong fragrance is 
also very pronounced.—E. J. 


FERNS. 

CYSTOPTERIS (BRITISH). 

Among the many species ami varieties of 
Ferns indigenous to this country none are 
more l>eautiful than the native Cystopteris. 
There are three species which are found in 
a wild state in England, and all three are 
small and delicate Ferns, the largest not ex¬ 
ceeding a foot in height. The best, method 
of cultivating these Ferns is by constructing 
a small rockery in a shady corner of the gar¬ 
den. The best stone for the purpose is sand¬ 
stone, and the best soil a mixture of equal 
parts peat and leaf-mould, with a dash of 
silver sand. They should have a copious 
supply of water at the roots, and he fre¬ 
quently syringed during the warm summer 
weather. ' It is best to syringe in the even¬ 
ing. The following are the species and 
varieties known to cultivation : — 

C. fragilis. —A tufted-growing plant, 
which quickly spreads into a large colony, 
composed of many crowns, each of which 
throws up a tuft of fronds, 8 inches to a 
foot in height. This is a very delicate-look¬ 
ing and very beautiful Fern, and it will suc¬ 
ceed under the most ordinary treatment. 

C. F. Dickieana is the best-known variety 
of this species. It is of more compact growth, 
and the fronds are broader and more blunt 
at the apex. It is a very pretty plant, and 
it is very easily cultivated. There are other 
varieties'of C. fragilis, but most of them are 
difficult to procure. Their names are C. f. 
dentata, C. f. angustata, and C. f. cristata. 
All are very pretty. 

C. regia (syn. C. alpina), a very doubtful 
inhabitant of this country, is the most, beauti¬ 
ful of the three species ; it is a minute plant, 
growing from 4 inches to 10 inches in height, 
and is rather more difficult to cultivate than 
C. fragilis. It requires the shadiest portion 
of the rockery, and should be so planted 
that its roots may cling to a block of sand¬ 
stone, and it should also be frequently 
syringed and watered at the root. 

’ Cystopteris Montana, a rare Fern, only 
found on a very few of the Scotch moun¬ 
tains, somewhat resembles the Oak Fern 
(Polypodium Drvopteris) in the shape of its 
fronds, for, like those of that plant, they are 
three-branched, owing to the development of 
the lowest pair of pi nine. The fronds of this 
delicate little plant are from 4 inches to 
8 inches in height. It should be planted on 


a rocky ledge, so that its roots may cling to 
the stone, and it ehould be frequently sup¬ 
plied with water. 

Ralph E. Arnold. 


RAISING FERNS FROM SPORES. 

I have a large quantity of Fern-spore*, which I 
would like to raise. When and how shall I sow the 
spores ?—Sr bscrihf.k. 

[Greenhouse and stove Ferns must be 
raised in a warm house, whereas for British 
and hardy exotic kinds a damp, shady, but 
not dark corner under a greenhouse stage or 
a cold-frame is alL that is required. The 
early spring is the most favourable time for 
sowing, as, if properly treated, seedlings 
raised then have sufficient time to produce 
crowns strong enough to stand the follow ing 
winter. Provided the materials used be or 
pure quality, either a piece of turfy loam, a 
piece of fibrous peat, or sometimes a mixture 
of both roughly broken, is all that is re¬ 
quired. An excellent way of getting rid of 
vegetable or animal life in the material 
used for sowing consists in gently pouring 
boiling water over it. When the soil thus 
treated has been allowed to cool and drain, 
it ia ready for use. The Fern spores, which 
are exceedingly minute, must be scattered on 
the surface of the prepared soil, and covered 
with either a bell-glass or a sheet of glass, 
and kept in a close, shady place. There they 
should remain until the surface of the pot i 
or pans which contain them becomes covered 
with a growth of Lichen appearance. From 
this singular growth the young Ferns ulti¬ 
mately develop, according' to the different, 
species, in a space of time usually varying 
from three to six months from the time of 
vsowing. During that time the pots or pan* 
in which the spores are sow r n should be kept 
in a uniform state of moisture; the watering 
should be done by partial immersion, stand 
ing the pots or pans in water for a few r inches, 
so that the moisture rises to the surface. 
When Fern spores germinate freely, it. is 
necessary that they should be divided, for. 
if allowed to crowd each other in the seed- 
pan or pot, they are very liable to damp off. 
They should still be watered by partial im¬ 
mersion, and no water should be applied 
overhead until fronds are visible. They 
should be gradually inured to the air by tilt¬ 
ing on one side the glass cover, which can 
in a short time be entirely removed. Until 
then it is advisable to keep the pots or pans 
well shaded during sunshine, but not in dull 
weather. When frondfi appear, the seedlings 
do not require any other shading than that 
to which the house is usually subjected. 
When the seedlings have formed little crowns 
and are provided with two or three fronds, 
they should be potted singly, or placed into 
pans or boxes, and kept for a time in a some¬ 
what close atmosphere, well shaded, and care¬ 
fully watered until they are established.] 


NOTES AND KEPLIES. 

Repotting Adiantums. — Some very Lire* 
Maidenhair Ferns, which are kept in a greenhouse 
having an average temperature of about SO <ieg>. 
during the winter months, appear to require re¬ 
potting. This has not been done for some years. 
Will February be a suitable time to repot or is it. 
wiser to wait until March? They could be done 
without removal from the house. Do you advise 
cutting off all fronds, even the perfectly sound and 
green ones, and will you kindly say what mixture of 
soil should be used?—DAISY. 

[We should advise that the repotting he 
done in February rather than March. As they 
have not been repotted for some years, you 
will probably find that in the case at least of 
Rome of them, when they are turned out of 
the pots, and the old and exhausted soil has 
been removed, they will not require any 
larger pot« than those in which they have 
been growing. Of course, one cannot say 
positively without seeing them. Do not. cut 
off any fronds that are sound and good. A 
mixture of two parts loam, two parts peat or 
leaf-mould, and one part sand will form a 
very suitable compost for Maiden hair Ferns. 
The soil must be pulled to pieces with the 
hand, and not sifted.] 


"The English Flower Garden and Home 

rounds. —Acts Edition, revised, with description 
• all the best plants, trees, and shrubs, their culture 
)ul arrangement, illustrated on xcovd. Cloth, Mtfutum, 


UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS A 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




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Original from 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



613 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Femiuary 1, 1908 


Another approach to the ideal hardy, white, 
trumpet-shaped Lily is Queen Alexandra’s 
Lily, but its significance cannot be compre¬ 
hended without first knowing L. japonicum, 
of which it is often considered a variety. 
To understand L. japonicum you must pic¬ 
ture to yourself a flower that is an inch 
shorter than the Easter Lily—say, 5 inches 
when well grown, white inside, and suffused 
outside with pink or purple. Its name never 
appears in catalogues, but L. Krameri is the 
universal trade name for the variety that is 
pink outside, and L. Browni for the one that 
is chocolate purple outside. Both bloom in 
Julv. There is some evidence to indicate 
that Queen Alexandra’s white Lily is a 
hybrid between the two species last de¬ 
scribed—viz., longiflorum and japonicum. 
Jt lias the white colour of the former (to¬ 
gether with similar filaments and styles) and 
the ruddy brown anthers of the latter. The 
flower has the shape of japonicum, being re¬ 
latively shorter-tubed and wider-mouthed 
than in longiflorum. “It is larger and finer 
in every way than longiflorum,” says an 
American enthusiast; but the largest size I 
find recorded for the flowers is 6 inches long 
and wide. It is certainly short-lived in 
England, but is worth a trial in Rhododen¬ 
dron-beds. I have never seen a frank, criti¬ 
cal statement of the merits of L. rubellum 
as compared with the other pink trumpet— 
viz., L. Krameri. The .cheapest purple 
trumpet Lily is L. Washingtonianum, which 
opens white, blit soon turns purple. It is a 
short trumpet—almost a )>cll. Like all the 
other Pacific Coast species, .it has done toler¬ 
ably well in England, but has never suc¬ 
ceeded on the Atlantic Coast in general culti¬ 
vation. Perhaps it will do; better in Rhodo¬ 
dendron-beds. The most interesting of all 
Lilies, in some respects, is the giant Hima¬ 
layan (L. giganteum), which attains an ex¬ 
treme height of 10 feet, qnd has borne as 
many as twenty flowers. Jts trumpets are 
white, tinged inside with purple and outside 
with green. It demands peat and partial 
shade. 

The Bog Lilies. 

Because I call these “bog Lilies,” I 
hope no one will jump to the con¬ 
clusion that the bulbs themselves like 
constant wetness, for no Lily-bulb can stand 
that. While these Lilies thrive best where 
they can send their roots down to a per¬ 
petual water supply, the bulbs themselves 
must be well above the line of constant mois¬ 
ture. Moreover, there is no reason, so far 
ns l know, why these Lilies should not thrive 
satisfactorily in Rhododendron-beds and look 
appropriate* there. The largest and most 
gorgeous of the bog Lilies is the American 
Turk’s Cap (L. superbum). I mentioned one 
of its Californian rivals among the peat- 
lovers—viz., Humboldt’s Lily. The other is 
the Leopard Lily (L. pardalinum). All three 
have the same Turk’s Cap shape, the same 
general colour scheme (orange-red, spotted), 
and the same formal habit, with large whorls 
of leaves. Under ordinary qulture they grow 
only 3 feet or 4 feet high, and bear three to 
ten flowers, but in bog gardens and Rhodo¬ 
dendron-beds they attain astonishing gran¬ 
deur, often growing 6 feet and even 10 feet 
high, and bearing aloft towering pyramids of 
bloom, containing twenty or even thirty 
flowers. The cheapest and best for the East 
is L. fiuperbum, which blooms in August. If 
the Leopard Lilv really blooms at a different 
time from superbum, it is worth extensive 
trial in Rhododendron-beds. It. differs from 
its rivals in not being orange-red through¬ 
out. The petals are red for the upper third 
and the rest is orange. It has the advantage 
over Humboldt's Lily in having round bulbs 
instead of flat, wide ones. The cheapest 
Isdl-shaped Lily in the red and yellow series 
is the common Wood Lily of the Eastern 
United States (L. eanadense). Its dainty, 
jx'iidulous flowers appear in June or July. 
An exquisite, though small, flower is Gray’s 
Lily, from the mountains of North Carolina. 
Part of its distinction is the fact that it is 
liardlv bell shaped, the tips being scarcely 
turned out enough for that. Lilium Grayi 
is reddish-orange, thickly spotted. The best, 
trumpet shaped bog Lily is Parry’s, a pale 
yellow' flower about 4 inches long, which is 
almost short enough to cnll lndl-shaped. L. 

Digitized by Co>. ’^lC 


Parryi is a Californian species, blooming in 
July. The best erect or cup-shaped bog Lily 
is L. philadelphicum, which grows wild in 
large patches in the East, bearing in July or 
August usually two large orange-red, spotted 
flowers on a stem only 2 feet high. 

Details of Lily Culture worth 
Studying. 

Do not try to grow in sunny borders 
or in ordinary soil any but the “easily- 
grown Lilies" mentioned above. Even with 
these it will pay to dig the soil to a depth of 
2 feet. If the soil is not perfectly drained, 
put a layer of stones or brick bats at the 
bottom. If it is clayey, mix well with sand 
and leaf-mould. If it is sandy, add loam and 
leaf-soil. For the peat-lovers and bog Lilies 
make special bods, or else plant them among 
Rhododendrons. Locate these beds so that 
the Lilies will lie shaded from the midday 
sun, but not directly underneath trees, for 
their leaves will keep off rain and their roots 
take the moisture the Lilies need. Also put 
them where the young growths will be pro¬ 
tected from cold winds in spring— c.g., 
among shrubbery. Mix the soil with three 
parts of good fibrous peat (Fern root) and 
one of sand. Never put manure within 
6 inches of a Lily-bulb, or it will burn the 
roots. Make the top-dressing rich, using 
perfectly decayed manure. Plant the bulbs 
from fi inches to 10 inches deep, according to 
the size of the bulb. Put the largest bulbs 
deepest, and the stem-rooting species deeper 
than the others. Water all I.ilies freely 
during the growing period only. After 
flowering, stop watering, so that the bulbs 
may ripen. In late autumn cut off the old 
steins so that water may not run down them 
into the centre of each bulb. After the first 
heavy frost, cover the Lily-beds with 3 inches 
of strawy manure, hay, or leaves. Over the 
delicate kinds put 3 inches of leaves and 
2 inches of strawy manure, to keep the 
leaves in place. In spring, put ever¬ 
green boughs among the tender growths to 
protect them from cutting winds. The com¬ 
mon Lily disease, which affects all species, 
but particularly the Madonna Lily, is a 
blight. (Botrytis), which attacks any part of 
the plant, but is most conspicuous upon the 
leaves, where it causes reddish or rusty- 
brown spots, which increase rapidly in size 
during wet seasons. The best plan is to 
spray with Bordeaux mixture before any 
blight api>ears, and repeat several times dur¬ 
ing the season. Dust the bulbs with sulphur 
as soon as you get them.— Wilhelm Miller, 
in Country Lift in America. 


HARDY FLOWER NOTES. 
Polygonum Sieboldi.— Tlie branching stems 
of this Knotweed, which, on the fall of the 
leaf, take on a tawny hue, exhibit a beauty 
of form and colour which should exempt 
them from the fate that overtakes herbaceous 
plants generally in the autumn. The clearing 
up process which takes place at that time in 
gardens where the worship of neatness docs 
not allow a dead leaf to exist is responsible 
for the destruction of much quiet beauty in 
the outdoor garden. The warm brown and 
russet tints that are to he found in field, 
hedgerow, and by the waterside are never 
enjoyed by the owners of well-ordered gar¬ 
dens. In close proximity to a good-sized 
group of Polygonum, I have big specimens of 
Osmunda cinnamomea and cristata, with all 
their russet coloured foliage intact, and hard 
by is a group of one of the hybrid Astilbee, 
showing now a little forest of slender brown 
stems. Is not this display of autumn tints 
better than looking at the bare earth when it 
no longer yields a floral display? 

Hardy Chrysanthemums. —The interest 
in those varieties which yield a profusion of 
bloom at a time when the outdoor garden 
would be practically flowerless, is evidently 
increasing. As long as I can reinember, 
these hardy, November blooming kinds have 
been great favourites with our Surrey cot¬ 
tagers, but from villa gardens they have been 
conspicuously absent. Those who may once 
have grown them will never willingly he w ith¬ 
out them, for, although they do not realise 
the exhibition ideal, they are fair and fresh, 
and beautify dwellings during one of the 
dullest months of the year. In addition to 


the old kinds, I can recommend La Triom- 
pliante, Soeur Melanie, and Christine, which 
with me have had several years’ trial, and 
have proved to be thoroughly reliable. La 
Triomphante is very good, yielding fine, large 
blooms of a pretty shade of pink from the 
beginning of November. 

Gentian a verna. —Everyone who has 
grown this little Gentian knows that it is one 
of the most difficult hardy plants we have to 
establish. The general experience is that 
after the second year it gradually dwindles 
and loses the power of producing good 
blooms. It may In* remembered that in a 
former issue of this paper I mentioned that 
several plants which happened to be partly 
overgrown by other things during tlie sum¬ 
mer seemed to be doing very well, which I 
thought might be owing to the natural shade 
afforded them. I have frequently noticed 
how' well hardy Ferns, Christmas Roses, or 
Primroses looked when growing under de¬ 
ciduous trees, where they got a good amount 
of light, but were protected from the direct 
rays of the sun. Under such conditions they 
look happier than when artificial shading is 
resorted to. The beautiful effect of what 
may be termed natural shade has, in tlie case 
of the Gentian, made itself unmistakably felt, 
for this season I find that my plants not only 
look healthy, but are extending, and are well 
set with buds. Last year they were accident¬ 
ally screened by plants of Campanula 
tenella; this year I put in front of them seve¬ 
ral plants of Tunica Saxifraga. I give my 
experience for what it is worth, and leave it 
to others to experiment in a like manner. It 
should be remembered that this little Gentian 
grows naturally among herbage which shoots 
in early spring, gradually lengthens, and in 
some measure screens the crowns and foliage 
against the fierce heat and desiccating in¬ 
fluence of the summer months. Not only is 
this the case, but Gentiana verna is a child of 
tlie hills, where the fresh breezes and pure 
air arc life-giving, whereas many gardens are 
in low-lying districts, and the air becomes 
over-rarefied during periods of extreme heat 
and drought. 

Iris fcetidissima. —Room should be found 
for a plant or two of the Gladwyn Iris, which 
is so fine for mid-winter decorations. This 
season Holly has been plentiful, and there¬ 
fore cheap, but in some years the contrary is 
the case, and those who love to see their 
habitations wear a bright and cheerful aspect 
during the festive season are glad to get any¬ 
thing that bears bright berries. This Iris is 
of such easy culture that anyone may grow it 
to perfection. It succeeds in almost any kind 
of soil and situation, does not suffer from 
periods of dry weather, but, on the contrary, 
remains in a state of perfect verdure no 
matter what tho weather may be. In my 
opinion, this Iris is worth growing for its 
foliage alone, for it is of free, graceful habit, 
forming masses of intense verdure that is 
grateful to the eye during the dull months of 
the year, this rich green showing up the pods 
of coral-red berries to perfection. 

Erythronium revolutitm. —This is one of 
the loveliest members of a very interesting 
family, the various members of which, with 
the exception of E. dens-eanis, the old Dog’s- 
tooth Violet, are very little known to amateur 
gardeners generally. The varying shades of 
white and pink and the recurving petals 
render this Erythronium one of the most deli¬ 
cately attractive bulbous plants in cultiva¬ 
tion. Free soil, good drainage, and a cer¬ 
tain amount of shelter from very hot sun are 
necessary conditions. 

J. CORNHILL. 


Violets diseased < Violetta ).—Had you sent us 
some of the leaves, we could then, possibly, have 
helped you. From your description of the foliage. wo 
fear your Violets have been attacked by the Violet- 
fungus. If our surmise is correct, and the disease 
had been taken in time, you might, by picking off tho 
affected leaves and burning them, afterwards syring¬ 
ing with Bordeaux mixture, have checked It Judg¬ 
ing from what you say, the disease has got too firm 
a hold, and the only thing you can do is to burn the 
lot and start with clean stock. Do not on any ac¬ 
count propagate from those infested plants, as the 
trouble will certainly appear next year if you do so. 


Index to Volume XXVIII. -The binding covers 
(price Is. (id. each, post free. Is. 9d.) and Index (3d., 
post free, 3|d.) for Volume XXVIII. are now ready, 
and may be bad of all newsagents, or of the Pub¬ 
lisher, post free, 2s. for the two. 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


FeuhCaiiy 1, 1D08 


C49 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


ROOM AND WINDOW. 

ARRANGEMENT OP FLOWERS. 

In floral decoration it often happens that the 
most pleasing effect is obtained by simple 
arrangements of one flower, as exemplified in 
the accompanying illustration. Both classes 
of Hellebores, the*Christmas and the Lenten 
Roses, come at a time when the garden pro¬ 
duces little for indoor decoration. True, 
there are the lovely Iris stylcsa and its white 
variety, and there are generally some spikes 
of the Winter Flag (Kchizostylis coccinea) in 
bloom during the time that the giant. Christ¬ 
mas Rose (H. altifoliu.s) is at its best, whil * 
the Winter Sweet (Chimonanthus fragrans) 
and Jasininum nudiflorum arc also open-air 
contemporaries. The Lenten Roses often 
commence to bloom in January, and with 
these during their flowering period are asso¬ 
ciated the early spring bulbs, but none of 
these subjects, beautiful as many of them are, 
should be used for floral arrangements in con¬ 
junction with Hellebores, the latter invari¬ 
ably creating the most artistic picture when 
arranged by themselves in a vase or bowl. Jt 
is advisable before placing them in water to 
slit the flower stems into four divisions with 
a sharp knife, making the cuts from the base 
upward to a length of about 4 inches. This 


growing that might be considered now. In 
the early summer, the blooms of Campanula 
persicifolia alba are delightful for tall vases. 
Equally pretty, too, are the Spanish Irises, 
some of which are almost pure white. Hun¬ 
dreds of bunches may be gathered from a 
row of Sweet Pea Blanche Burpee. Flowers 
of Sweet Sultans are most effective, 
too, for fancy vases. Achillea ptarmica The 
Pearl, whose small white heads of bloom are 
so freely produced, are handy for small 
bowls. Much can ho done with the many 
useful early-flowering Chrysanthemums, and 
Dahlias in the autumn will not he forgotten. 
—F. D._ 

CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

WHAT TO DO WITH ROOTED 
CUTTINGS. 

Rooting has been somewhat rapid of late, 
and it will be necessary to take in hand 
the more forward young plants, and pot 
them up. The increasing length of the days 
is now telling in favour of the young plants, 
and if they are to he maintained in a sturdy 
condition and in good health no time must 
now lx* lost in dealing with them. Too often 
the freshly-rooted cuttings are left in the 
propagating-frame longer than necessary, or, 
if removed, they are kept at too great a dis¬ 



Christmas Roses in a vase. 


prevents the flowers from becoming flagged, 
which they quickly do if this expedient is not 
practised. The Lenten Roses have such 
abundant foliage that no difficulty is experi¬ 
enced in adding a few leaves to their flower- 
stems, which are themselves furnished with 
leaflets, without damaging the plants, but in 
the case of the Christmas Roses, if leaves 
were plucked every time a bowlful of flowers 
were gathered the plants would 60 on become 
denuded of foliage and thereby weakened. 
The blooms of the Helleborue liiger and its 
varieties are far more solid in appearance, 
and are carried with greater rigidity on the 
footstalks than is the case with H. orientals, 
and, therefore, leafage possessing something 
of the firm and close texture of their natural 
foliage proves the most effective substi¬ 
tute, and leaf-sprays of the common Rhodo¬ 
dendron ponticum have been found to lend 
themselves to this association with good effect 
when tastefully arranged. Naturally, where 
the leafage of the Christmas Rose is suffi¬ 
ciently abundant to provide the needed 
greenery without injuring the plants no sub¬ 
stitute is necessary. 

White flowers for cutting.— No matter at 
what time of the year they bloom, white 
flowers are always useful, and, in anticipa¬ 
tion of the coming season, I saggest the 
names of a few for outdoor and indoor 

Digitized by '*^lC 


tance from the glass, or in a glass house 
where the temperature is much too high for 
them. Place the boxes or pots of rooted cut¬ 
tings on shelves near to the glass roof of the 
greenhouse, and see that this structure is 
ventilated on all favourable occasions. In 
this way the rooted cuttings will soon develop 
into sturdy little plants. At this season of 
the year we often experience sharp bursts of 
sunshine, and in such circumstances the young 
plants in small pots quickly become dry, and 
suffer severely in consequence. A check of 
the kind just referred to is a very serious 
affair for plants grown to produce large 
flowers, and care should be taken to avoid it. 

As soon as the young plants have filled the 
cutting pots with roots, they should receive 
their first shift into pots of larger size. 
Those propagated singly in thumb pots should 
lx* transferred to others of deep make. 
3} inches across. Cuttings that, were rooted 
around the edge of 3-inch and 5 inch pots, as 
well as those propagated in shallow boxes, 
should 1>e placed in 3-inch pots. These 
two sizes will meet the needs of the respec¬ 
tive plants at this period admirably. See 
that both pots and crocks arc clean, as par¬ 
ticles of soil adhering to the sides of the 
pots arc apt to tear the roots asunder when 
the plants are to lx* repotted. Soak new pots 
for a time, previous to using them for re¬ 
potting. The compost for the first shift. 


should be mude up of three parU nice, fibrous 
loam, one part leaf-mould, one part well- 
rotted manure, one-sixth of a part of coarse 
silver sand, and a free sprinkling of wood- 
ashes ; or, failing this, crushed charcoal or 
crushed oyster-shells. These ingredients 
should be put through a coarse sieve and the 
heap given a thorough mixing, so that the 
different soils may be properly blended. This 
work should be done under cover in case of 
rain and frost. Less risk is run from this 
source by standing the pots on a layer of 
Cocoa-nut-fibre refuse, broken shells, or 
sifted ashes, or any material of a moist ami 
pooling nature. In many gardens plants of 
a varying character have to be grown in just 
one house, or possibly two houses, and when 
this is 60 it is difficult to keep Chrysanthe¬ 
mums growing on steadily, and, at the samo 
time, maintain in good health other subjects 
requiring a warmer temperature. This 
difficulty may be overcome by placing the re¬ 
cently-rooted Chrysanthemums in cold- 
frames. Special care must be taken, how¬ 
ever, to see that adequate protection against 
frost is provided. I plunge the young plants 
in Cocoa-nut-fibre refuse, as this is an 
effectual protection for the roofs during the 
most protracted frosts. Spent Hops, leaves, 
sifted ashes, etc., etc., may be used as plung¬ 
ing material with almost equal success. 
Straw litter should 1x3 packed up all round 
the frame and the frame lights covered with 
one or two mats, if the weather is very 
severe. In country gardens, Bracken is very 
useful. On fine, mild days all covering should 
be removed, and a “crack” of air admitted 
to the frames. Crock the pots with care, and 
over the drainage put a shallow layer of the 
rougher siftings of the compost. When the 
potting has been completed, the surface soil 
of the young plants should be about j-inch 
below the rim of the pot. Finish off neatly 
on the surface, and with one or two sharp 
raps on the potting-bench the repotting 
operation should be completed. When shak¬ 
ing out the young plants from pots in which 
a number of them have, been rooted, more 
care will be necessary, as the roots must be 
disturbed as little as possible. If repotted 
before the roots get matted together, it is 
simple enough. Never deal with more than 
one variety at a time, and thus avoid a mix¬ 
ing of the stocks. Label each set of plants 
as finished, and before replacing them in the 
cold greenhouse or cold frames water in with 
clear water from a fine-rosed can, leaving 
them to drain before placing them under 
cover. Keep the glass structure rather 
close for a day or two, after which gradually 
admit air by careful ventilation. E. G. 


Chrysanthemum King of Plumes.— 

Though not new, this variety is still one of 
the most effective in this section, the deep 
rich yellow colour of the thread-like petals 
rendering it a very valuable sort to grow for 
late flowering. The flowers are also of good 
size, and freely produced, and the habit of 
the plant is bushy and dwarf. It is, there¬ 
fore, exceedingly useful for edging groups or 
as isolated specimens in vases and other re¬ 
ceptacles for house adornment. A very 
pretty and effective dinner-table arrange¬ 
ment can be had by employing flowers of this 
Chrysanthemum in conjunction with sprays 
of some hardy ornamental evergreen shrub, 
the colour showing up beautifully by artificial 
light. To have it in perfection at the end 
of the year propagation should not take place 
earlier than the month of March.—G. P. K. 

Chrysanthemum Kathleen Thompson.— 
I note your correspondent takes exception to 
my having inadvertently spoken of this 
Chrysanthemum as an earlv-flowering variety 
in a* note which appeared in an earlier issue 
of Gardening. I had no intention whatever 
of conveying the idea that it is an early out¬ 
door or border variety, for as such I have not 
given it a trial, but admit that the words 
“early-flowering.” as written, may lead to 
some misconception, so I hasten to make the 
correction. What, I did mean—although I 
find, on reference to my note, that. I did not 
give expression to it—was that it is an early- 
flowering decorative variety— i.e,, for pot 
culture; and, had I considered it suitable for 
border cultivation, I should have mentioned 

it.— a. w. Ordinal fren 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



650 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


February ], 1908 


VEGETABLES. 

PARSLEYS. 

It is interesting to learn that amongst the 
trials to be conducted in the Wisley gardens 
of the Royal Horticultural Society this year 
will be one of Parsleya. Parsley is not a 
vegetable of firBt-clasn importance by any 
means, but it has to the gardener consider¬ 
able value for garnishing. A coarse Parsley 
may do ns well for flavouring as a refined one, 
but, for garnishing, the more refined and 
deeper the colour the better. Of all herbs, 
Parsley is the most widely grown, and as all 
who thus grow it like to have the best ob¬ 
tainable, a trial such as is purposed may 
help materially to finding the best. The ori¬ 
gin of the proposed trial, however, was that, 
during the past year one stock, a fair one, 
was grown in the gardens, and the vegetable 
committee declined to deal with it, because 
no other stocks were there to enable com 
parisons to be instituted. There are many 
diversely named Parsleys, but, after all 
actual differences of character are few. 
What these differences are, it will be well to 
have clearly determined. In the case of the 
one stock referred to, it was not absolutely 
true to character, some plants being excep¬ 
tionally strong or diverse in leafage. It is 
in being absolutely true to character, if that 
character he good, that, any Parsley becomes 
meritorious. Generally Parsleys are sown 
too thick. For the purpose of a triaL the 
rows should Ik* at. least 2 feet apart, and seed 
sown quite thinly, so that no thinning be 
needed or performed. It is so important that 
the real nature of the stock should be seen, 
and, were thinning done, evidence on that 
head would be wanting. If it were possible, 
it would be an advantage to get the treble- 
curled, the Fern-leaved, and the stocks gene¬ 
rally described as garnishing, grouped to¬ 
gether. In relation to testimonials as to 
the merits of Parsleys given by various per¬ 
sons, all, doubtless, conscientious, none can 
have such value as attaches to an award of 
the vegetable committee at Wisley, when the 
best from many stocks are selected and 
honoured. R. R. K. 

POTATOES FOR PLANTING. 

While the sprouting of seed Potatoes is 
generally practised, it has special value in 
relation to the testing of the sets as to 
whether healthy or diseased. Tuliers that 
have in them latent disease spores not ex- 
ternally noticeable invariably either break 
shoots weakly or not at all. The same force 
which sets natural germination or growth in 
action equally aids to set Fungoid growth in 
action also, hence the food supply of a tuber 
to sustain shoots in a robust state is either 
not there or is very much limited. Except 
by cutting seed tubers in half it is not pos¬ 
sible to otherwise ascertain whether disease 
spores exist in their flesh or whether they 
are healthy. Generally it is found that the 
proportion of sets thus weakened, and found 
unfit for planting, is probably not more 
than 5 per cent, of the whole, but even these 
few it is well to have tested, ami, when 
found wanting, to destroy or burn them. 

No one, so far, seems able to advise by 
steeping sets in any liquid or dusting heavily 
with sulphur or other assumed fungicide 
that it is possible to destroy disease spores 
in the tul>ers. yet to in no wav injure the 
tubers’ germinating powers. What would 
effectually kill one would, no doubt, kill the 
other. Then, in planting sets that have in 
their robust sprouting proved to be healthy, 
yet may in their progeny become diseased, no 
form of preventive that can be dressed into 
tbe soil when the planting is done has been 
discovered. Liberal dustings of sulphur have 
not availed against, the Potato disease, and 
the only real or assumed real remedy, the 
copper sulphate and lime solution, is so little 
used that it plays hardly any part in battling 
with the disease. As has so often been said, 
our best preventives arc light porous soils, 
ample room for the plants, high moulding, 
and, not by any means least, planting for 
main crops varieties that have robust, erect, 
woody stems, because these always prove to 
be more disease-resisting than are sprawling 
stems with soft leafage. 

Digitized by GO -glC 


Because a comparatively low temperature 
has, so far, prevailed this winter, seed Pota¬ 
toes have kept very dormant. That is well, 
because we shall certainly get milder weather 
later on that will make the eyes active. Gar¬ 
deners who wish to plant early in pots or in 
frames, or on warm borders outdoors, can 
easily accelerate their belated tubers if set 
up in shallow boxes and stood in the gentle 
warmth of a greenhouse. Amateurs and 
cottagers, unless they have special means of 
furnishing protection to the tender growths 
on early Potatoes, will be wise to refrain 
from planting too early, but they will do well 
at once to have their 6eed tubers set up in 
boxes ready to sprout from their leading 
eves the moment temperature becomes 
higher, if the sets be left, in boxes thickly, 
the mere fact they are so often induces the 
creation of gentle heat., which causes sprouts 
to break, and, being in the dark, are neces¬ 
sarily weak and blanched. For that reason 
alone it is well to get the sets into sprouting 
boxes in good time. There are, however, 
other and oft-repeated benefits resulting from 
this sprouting. It is easy when growth takes 
place to detect rogues or wrong varieties, 
should anv have got mixed. When no growth 
follows boxing, Mien all blind tubers can )xj 
rejected. That sometimes happens even 
when tl»e flesh of the tubers is not. diseased, 
but may be due to other causes. Then, when 
tubers are properly sprouted in ample light 
and air, the shoots made do not exceed an 
inch or so in length, and thus keep station¬ 
ary till planted. It. is, however, well to damp 
the tubers occasionally, to check loss of sap 
by evaporation. In such sprouted condition 
tubers have some three weeks’ growth on 
them in advance of those similar tubers not 
sprouted, and can be planted later when the 
soil has become warmer and atmospheric 
conditions are more favourable. Further, if 
the sprouting boxes have been properly made 
with cross handles, planting can take place 
from them direct. A. D. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Maggot In Celery. —In your columns, and 
from personal observation, Celery this year 
seems more or less affected with the maggot 

in some instances to such an extent as to 
be almost useless. I have been very fortu¬ 
nate with my Celery this year. My favourite 
varieties are Sandringham Dwarf White, 
Leicester Red. Standard Bearer, and Major 
Clarke’s Solid Red, all old, well-tried sorts. 
I sow thinly in pans in a gentle heat, prick 
out early into rather deep boxes containing 
some good rich soil, mainly composed of leaf- 
soil, sifted cow and horse-manure from a 
well-decomposed heap, stand in a frame and 
shade from the sun. I never allow the young 
plants to become drawn or to suffer from 
drought. Trenches are then prepared a spit 
deep and a foot wide—I am a believer in the 
single row system —-and 6 inches of the 
manure from the stack put into the trench 
and forked over to loosen the bottom. The 
plants are tlien set out, choosing a dull day, 
well watering in,, and shading by mats or 
boughs for a day or two. When growing, 
manure-water or a slight, dressing of nitrate 
of soda is given. Overhead in the evening of 
hot days a good sprinkling of clear water is 
given, and to make the leaves distasteful to 
the fly 1 use soot (not too fresh) and some 
extract of Quassia chips. To make the 
plants extra robust I mulch with some more 
of the manure above referred to. From be¬ 
ginning to end I strive to keep the plants 
growing, for if in indifferent health they are 
open to all complaints. It is no use to earth 
lip a sickly plant, for what it is when it is 
tied up it will lx* when it is dug up for use.— 
P. E. Cornish. 

Brussels Sprouts clubbing {Mrs. Barron).— 
This trouble is nest remedied by the use of gas-lime, 
which should, in the winter, be spread over the 
ground at the rate of 2 bushels to 3 rods of ground. 
Allow it to lie for several weeks, and then, after it 
lias been well broken down, reap re ad and dig into the 
ground, so that its acid properties are Well ab¬ 
sorbed by Mie soil before cropping. A heavy dress¬ 
ing of fresh lime, put down into heaps of l bushel 
to each rod of ground and covered with soil, should 
also do good. Spread the lime about after it has 
been slacked, and dig it in. Evidently your ground 
is munnre-sick. and we should advise you nut to u>e 
any manure this sea sou. 


GARDEN WORK. 

Conservatory. —Azaleas and Camellias arc 
making a good show now, and will continue 
to do so for some time. Weak soot-water 
once a week will be useful to most plants 
coming into bloom. Acacias will also be 
producing their yellow flowers freely. These 
also are strong-rooting things, and may have 
a little stimulant whilst, the flowers are ex¬ 
panding. As soon as the flowers fade prune 
into shape, and if larger pots are required 
repotting may take place when the plants 
break into growth after pruning. Speci¬ 
men plants of large size will do better in 
tubs. We have had some tubs made in 
Belgium of different sizes. They are very 
reasonable in price, and lasting, being made 
of Oak. Indian Rhododendrons and their 
hybrids are charming conservatory plants, 
and the flowers are useful for cutting. 
Among the best are Princess Royal, fragran- 
tissimum, Lady Alice Fitzwilliam, and Prin¬ 
cess Alexandra. The same treatment given 
to Azaleas will suit these Rhododendrons. 
Cuttings of the young side shoots of Tree 
Carnations will root now in heat in sandy 
soil, with a l^yer of sand on the surface, kept 
moist. I have rooted cuttings at this season, 
and later, in pans of damp sand over hot- 
water pipes, but the sand must always lx* 
kept moist. To keep the conservatory in 
effective condition there must be constant 
changes, especially at this time, when the 
ladies will be often in the house. Not only 
will there be a constant stream working 
through now from other houses, but the posi¬ 
tion of the best specimens should be fre¬ 
quently changed, and a few good Palms and 
other fine-foliaged plants will be indispen¬ 
sable. Palms seem to have taken the place 
of the Tree-Ferns, as the Palms are more 
graceful and are easily kept in condition. 
Sometimes a Kentia may grow out of the 
pot, and be a little bit loose. In that ease, 
I have generally cut away the bottom roots 
and dropped the ball deeper into a fresh pot. 

Stove. —The repotting season for some 
things is drawing near. I like to get some of 
this work done in February. Most of the 
plants require a change of soil, as the fibre 
decays and the virtue has gone out of it. Of 
course, there are young plants to be shifted 
on and cuttings to be taken and rooted. 
Eueharis Lilies do not want a shift often if 
the drainage is free. The bulbs flower better 
when pot bound, as there is no difficulty in 
supplying the plants with liquid food. There 
comes a time, of course, when the bulbs must 
he divided and started afresh, but this is 
only done when there are signs of weakness 
in the growth, and this refers to other plants 
which are propagated by division. In the 
ease of some things, especially Ferns which 
do not produce spores, a healthy stock can 
be worked up better by dividing rather young 
plants before exhaustion sets in. To work 
up a stock, for instance, of Adianfcum Far- 
leyense it is better to work with young 
plants. 

Tying: down and stopping Vines.- This 
is work which requires promptitude and judg¬ 
ment. If a shoot splinters off through too 
much pressure an unsightly blank is left all 
the season. Draw each shoot down half-way 
or so. In a few days more pressure may be 
given. Do not crowd, or, perhaps, I should 
have said, do not overcrowd, the foliage. 
Study the ventilation carefully, and for the 
present, anyway, ventilate along the ridge 
only, as front air at this time is always 
dangerous, and may bring on rust and mil¬ 
dew. Inside borders may be carefully 
attended. Find out their condition. This is 
usually done before the house is closed for 
forcing. Through the forcing season the 
temperature should be progressive until 
65 (legs, is reached, when the Vines are in 
bloom, allowing 10 degs. rise through the 
day from fire-heat; but when the sun shines 
by closing early in the afternoon the tem¬ 
perature may be run up to 85 dogs., or 
90 degs.. as the season advances. Tt is al¬ 
ways well to take advantage of the sun's 
warmth on bright days by early closing, but 
early morning ventilation is very important. 
Very small openings along the ridge will suf¬ 
fice at present, and iff I there are ventilators 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 





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Original from 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



653 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


February 1 , 1908 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

Questions .—Queries and answers are inserted in 
Gardening free of charge if correspondents follow these 
rules: All communications should be clearly and concisely 
written on one side of the paper only, arid addressed to 
the Editor of Gardening, 17, Fumival-strcet, Holbom, 
London, E.C. Letters on business should be sent to the 
Publisher. The name and address of the sender are 
required in addition to any designation he may desire to 
be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, 
each should be on a separate piece of paper, and not more 
than thru queries should be sent at a time. Correspond 
dents should bear in mind that, as Gardening has to be 
sent to press some time in advance of date, queries cannot 
always be replied to in the issue immediately following 
the receipt of their communication. We do not reply to 
queries by post. 

Naming 1 fruit .—Readers who desire our help in 
naming fruit should bear in mind that several specimens 
in different stages of colour and size of the same kind 
greatly assist in its determination. Wc have received from 
several correspondents single specimens of fruits for 
naming, these in many cases being unripe and other¬ 
wise poor. The differences between varieties of fruits are 
in many cases so trifling that it is necessary‘that three 
specimens of each kind should be sent Wc can undertake 
to name only four varieties at a time, and these only when 
the above directions are observed. 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

Flowers of Begonia Gloire de Lorraine drop¬ 
ping (Anxious).—Aa detailed by you, the potting 
compost and the general treatment given to your 
Begonia Gloire de Lorraine leave nothing to he de¬ 
sired, and wo can only suggest that the trouble may 
be caused by an irregular temperature, or probably 
the fumes from the boiler find their way into the 
ho use. 

Plants for window-box in shade (J. If. 

McKenna ).—Use Creeping Jenny, Musk, and Blue 
Lobelia, intermixed, to drape the front of the box, 
and train Ivy-leaved Geraniums and Canary Creepers 
over behind. A good plant for the front of the 
window-box would be Campanula isophylla alba, which 
should do well. .This is quite hardy. A white Tufted 
Pansy, a dwarf Scarlet Pelargonium, and a Fuchsia or 
two will give an ample mixture, and should give 
plenty of bloom in the shade. Experience of the posi¬ 
tion, however, will soon tell you what will thrive 
best. 


Genista fragrans. increasing from cut 
tings (Mrs. A. 6. Bradley ).—Cuttings of this green¬ 
house plant are easily struck by planting them firmly 
in sandy soil. A good way is to put the pot con¬ 
taining the cuttings inside a larger one, filling up the 
space between the two pots with coarse sand. A 
bell-glasa should rest with its rim on the sand, and 
be kept over the cuttings until they are rooted, tak¬ 
ing it off once a day to wipe the condensed moisture 
off the inside. , The cuttings must be shaded until 
they arc rooted. They will root more quickly if the 
pots are plunged in a hot-bed or propaguting-framc. 

Herbaceous plants from seed (Centaur).— (1) 
Sow in March in boxes and stand on a gentle hot¬ 
bed, and when the seedlings are strong enough 
transplant to other boxes and finally plant out in 
June in their permanent quarters. We prefer, how¬ 
ever, to sow iu May or June, getting the plants into 
their flowering quarters early in the autumn, so as to 
be established before the winter. Such plants flower 
well the following season. (2) For a heavy soil, such 
as you mention, horse-manure is certainly to be pre¬ 
ferred, cow-manure being used for light, sandy soils 
to keep them cool and moist. (3) We presume you 
intend dividing and replanting the Hepaticas at the 
same time, as they resent replanting in large clumps. 
You can divide and replant during February. In 
sending queries, kindly read our rules as to putting 
each query on a separate piece of paper, signing each 
one. 

Fuchsia, increasing (.1 Regular Subscriber).— 
We are presuming that you have some old plants of 
Fuchsias from which water has been withheld dur¬ 
ing the winter. Prune such hard back, and after 
they have stood a few days to heal up introduce 
them to a house with a temperature of about 55 deg.s. 
Gently dew them overhead, when the growth will 
soon start. The supply of moisture at the root must 
also be increased when growth is well on the move. 
The cuttings may be taken ofr when about 2 indies 
long, and inserted either singly into small pots or 
several into a 4j-inch pot, using the same mixture of 
soil as advised for the Pelargoniums. If you can 
stand in a propagating frame, roots will soon form, 
amt the young plants ran be potted on in the usual 
way, giving them comfortable, moist quarters until 
they are growing freely. The old plants, if you have 
such, can be repotted and grown on, and will be 
found very useful either iu tlie conservatory or for 
the flower garden. 


Saintpaulia ionantha, increasing ( I. ¥. 

This cau be easily propagated from leaves iu the same 
manner as its near relative the Gloxinia. From the 
beginning of March onwards for a couple of months 
is a very good time to carry out this operation. 
Mature leaves should be chosen for the purpose, and 
they must be separated front the parent plant as 
near the mam stem as possible—that is to say, with 
a certain amount of leaf-stalk attached to the blade. 
Then take a clean pot or pan, well drained, and fill 
It with an open compost, such as a mixture of equal 
parts of loam, peat or leaf-mould, and silver sand, 
the whole being passed through a quarter of an inch 
sieve, or. failing that, rub it up finely with the hands. 
After that, fill the put or pan with this mixture, 
make quite level, and press down slightly. Next, 
dibble in the leaves as cuttings, not quite upright, 
but sloping sufficiently to allow the upper surface of 
the leaf to be still on th»-4qp. The leaf stailk should 
ho buried at pu.1i a d<f>th tbnV the tluryif the 
blade i'l-t l v> I with the jALig oi ill IdfeT Then 
stand the pot or pah InrHmoTnignt.JrimTlorMinnv, 


position in a warm house, and water when necessary, 
but do not keep the soil too wet. In time a young 
shoot will make its appearance from the base of the 
leaf, and when large enough the small plants may be 
potted singly. The close atmosphere of a propagat- 
ing-case is not so suitable for them us a snug posi¬ 
tion in a warm house. 

Pelargoniums, striking, in spring (Regular 
Subscriber ).—March is the time to strike them. We 
are assuming that you have some old plants, in 
which case the tops of these arc excellent, and will 
root freely with very little artificial heat. Insert 
the cuttings singly into thumbs, or five or six may 
be placed round the edge of a 4|-inch pot, nice, free, 
sandy loam being used for the purpose. 1‘lace them 
where a nice warm current of air from the hot-water 
pipes will keep them dry. After the first week or 
two do not let them go short of water at the root, 
and when struck and beginning to grow shift those 
from the single pots into 34-inch pots and pot the 
others off singly into the same-sized pots, keeping 
them close for a thue until you sec that growth is on 
the move. If grown on freely, these will make nice 
stuff for planting out in the flower-garden towards 
the end of May. If any are not required for the 
flower-garden, such, If grown on during the summer, 
will come in well for winter flowering. 

Begonia Gloire de Lorraine. Increasing 
(Voltaire ).—The plants lute in the spring, when their 
flowering period is over or nearly so, should be cut 
back to below where the first blooms have been pro¬ 
duced. In a abort time young shoots will be pushed 
out towards the base of the plant, and when these 
are from 1$ inches to 2 inches long they form the best 
of cuttings. They should, with a sharp knife, be cut 
close off to the main stem, and dibbled into well- 
drained pots of sandy soil, given a gentle watering 
through a fine rose, and placed in a close propagat* 
tag-case in the stove. Only water when necessary, 
and open the case occasionally to dry up any super¬ 
abundant moisture, In about three weeks the cut¬ 
tings will have rooted, when they may be hardened 
off and potted singly into small pots. A suitable 
compost in which to grow this Begonia and its various 
forms is a mixture of loam and leaf-mould, with, if 
the loam is inclined to be heavy, plenty of silver 
sand. When the pots get full of roots an occasional 
dose of liquid-manure is very beneficial. You can 
retain the old plants, potting them when they have 
started freely into growth after having been cut 
down, but wc prefer to raise from cuttings every 
year. 

Violets, treatment of (Mrs. A. G. Bradley).— 
The first half of April is the best time for planting, 
as then the runners have time to recuperate before 
very hot weather sets in, and, in dividing the parent 
plant, endeavour to get off shoots with fibrous roots 
attached, discarding the centre of the old plant, 
which seldom glows away kindly. In your case we 
think it would be almost advisable to procure a fresh 
stock, especially if the plants have gut lanky with 
few runners, us is most likely the case when neglected 
for u few years. Choose a fine day Hnd the soil in good 
working order for planting, first forking the ground 
over, and then raking euu with a wooden rake, and 
set out the plants in lines 18 inches asunder, the 
plants to be the same distance from each other— 
that is, for the single varieties which have large 
leave* -the double varieties will oul.v need 12 inches 
each way. Plant with tlie dibber quite firmly, and 
water in as work proceeds, as a good start is half the 
battle. Should the weather continue dry, the plants 
should have a sonking twice a week until they are 
established. The routine treatment during summer 
consists in the frequent use of the flat hoe and timely 
removal of all runners, to concentrate the full vigour 
into the one crown, from which fine flowers can only 
be gathered. In case of a hot summer and that de¬ 
structive pest, red-spider, gaining a footing on the 
foliage, which quickly becomes noticeable, the leaves 
turning to a yellowish white, well syringe the 
foliage underneath about five o’clock p.in., ami then 
scatter a little soot or sulphur about the affected 
parts, B.vringing it off after twenty-four hours. Too 
rich a soil causes rank growth and few flowers, and 
beds are much improved for an annual renewal, giv¬ 
ing them a fresh piece of ground. Some cultivators 
take off runners towards early autumn, and dibble 
them into cold-frames, or even boxes, pretty thickly 
together, and plant out as described, in the month of 
April; but for ordinary garden culture, the method 
first mentioned in these notes will be found to give 
general satisfaction. 

FRUIT. 

Walnut tree bleeding (Mrs. Wells).—Try what 
paring the saw-cuts with a sharp knife and dressing 
with Stockholm tar will do. Some people say that 
the early autumn la the best time for pruning the 
Walnut, when the growth is completed, as then 
there is lew movement of sap, and bleeding is not 
so likely to follow . 

Pruning and training the Morello Cherry 

(G. M .).—The Morello Cherry bears best oil the young 
shoots trairrd in nearly full length the same as the 
Peach, and the pruning consists chiefly in cutting out 
the young shoots, leaving iu a sufficient number to 
have a supply of bearing wood all over the tree. 
The young shoots should not be trained nearer than 
4 inches. If very fine fruits aie wanted a little more 
snace might be allowed. Very long shoots should be 
shortened a little by the removal of the unripe point*. 
The fan system of training is best. 

Moss on fruit trees (C Roberts ).—The growth 
of Moss on fruit-trees—a natural condition when the 
trees have become old and not attended to in the 
way of careful pruning and feeding—result h from 
the roots getting into poor soil or 60 ur subsoil. We 
fear no remedy that we could recommend would be 
of any use, as your trees are evidently half dead, 
judging by the pieces you send. You should ask 
some practical man in the neighbourhood to look nt 
them and advise you. We would not hesitate to dig 
them and burn them, and start with young, healthy 
tr**w. The ground op wjiich they are growing is 


very likely in want of draining, mid, if so, until this 
is done it is useless to attempt the successful culti¬ 
vation of fruit-tree*. 

Seedling Orange trees (8 .).—Seedling Orange- 
trees are a very long time in producing flowers. 
Better have the young tree grafted by some gardener, 
who could place the tree In some warm, close frame 
or house until the union was perfect. Orange-trees 
are not difficult to cultivate. They require clean, 
well-drained pots, and rich, open, loamy soil. Plenty 
of water is needed during the summer, with less in 
the winter. They may with advantage be placed out- 
of-doors in the summer months. A greenhouse tem¬ 
perature suits them well. 

Green and black-fly on Plum and Cherry- 
trees (The Mount).— Put a pound of ground caustic 
soda into half a pail of water, and when it is dis¬ 
solved add J lb. pearl-ash. Stir it well till all is dis¬ 
solved, and then add 10 gallons of water. To the 
mixture add 10 ozs. of soft-soap, which should have 
been dissolved in a little boiling water. You must 
be careful, as this mixture is very caustic, and will 
spoil any clothes it wets, and it should not bo 
allowed to touch the skin. It will kill any insect 
and eggs that are on the tree, but it will not hurt 
the tree in any way if the dressing is applied when 
the tree is leafless. 

VEGETABLES. 

Manuring Potato ground (5u1»*cri&er).—If you 
can readily obtain stable-manure for your Potato 
ground, you can have nothing better. If it is quit© 
fresh, get it in nt once, put it into a heap to lie for 
a week, then well turn and mix it, adding water to 
thoroughly moisten it. Put it into a heap again for 
a week, then get it on to the ground and at once dig 
it in. If you have soot, add a good dressing of that 
to the soil at the same time. You should not plant 
until the middle of April if you do not wish your 
Potato-tops to be injured by frost. By that time the 
manure will have become well incorporated with the 
soil. Being light soil, you can plant the Potatoes 
with a dibbler, and get in that way capital growth. 
Much will depend on the variety of Potato you grow , 
and from whence you get your seed t libers. If you 
use any Potato manure of an artificial kind, it 
should consist of bone-flour and kainit well crushed 
ami mixed. To properly add that, furrows should 
be drawn 4 indies deep and the manure be dusted 
along at the rate of 6 lb. per rod of ground in the 
furrows before the sets are planted. 


SHORT REPLIES. 


W. ('. Kettle. -The autumn is the best time, but 
you must be quite sure that the layers arc well 
rooted before you attempt to move them.- Stirling¬ 

shire. -The soil is probably loo rich and loose. Brus¬ 
sels Sprouts require a very firm soil, which must not 
be heavily manured, as this leads to grossneso, and 

the sprouts are in such cases never firm.- A. II — 

For your district and to come iu at the time you 
mention, we should think that Peach Alexander 

would answer.- Agents. — Write to M. Vilmoriu et 

Cie., 4, Quai de la Megisscrie, Paris. — P. B. J. 1, 
You may prune at any time after the leaves have 
fallen. 2, No; we have never seen any bud effects 
follow. Puzzled.— It is very difficult to say what 
causes the trouble, as you give us no particulars as 
to your treatment of the plants. A very likely 
reason is that you are keeping the plants too close 

and warm, and also too wet at the roots.- In a 

Quandary .—The only thing you can do is to protect 

the trees with nets.- Mrs. Wells .—Choisya ternata, 

Berberis in variety, Bignonia, Passiflora Constance 
Elliot, Forsyth! a, Ribes aureum. Lonicera, Kerria 
japonica; while you have a wide selection from 
among the •limbing Roses. Yes; Pyrus (Cydonia) 

jnnonica should answer well.- British Columbia.— 

••The Fruit Garden.” By Geo. Bunyard and Owen 

Thomas. Can be had through any bookseller.- 

St. Johns .—Aralia eleguntissima is a stove plant, and 
will not live in the temperature you can keep up. 
Very possibly the plant came out of a very warm 
house, hence the failure when you placed it in a 

greenhouse.- Negro.—I, You will find an article 

dealing with the “ Forcing of Shrub* ” in our issue 
of December 22nd, 1008, a copy of which can be bad 
of the publisher, poet free, for Ijd. 2, Only suited 
for market-men or growers on a very large scale. 3, 
No; far better let them grow as they will. 


NAMES OF PLANTS AND FRUITS. 


Names of plants.— M. D — 1. The Lily of the 
Field (Sternbergia lutea); 2. Veronica prostrata; 3, 

Phlox setacca var.-/. T. B.- 1. Selaginella Mar- 

tensi; 2. Pteris tremula.- Rocli Garden.—), Hedera 

congloinerata; 2, Next week; 3, Eunnymus radicans 
variegatus. 

Name of fruit —-1. C. Twentyman .—Apple Crim¬ 
son Quota tag. 


Catalogues received Alexr. Dickson and Sons, 
61, Dawson-street, Dublin .—List of Pedigree InA i 

Seeds. -Wm. Sydenham, Tamworth. — List of Aster.'. 

Carnations and Picotcc*, Pyrethrums, Tufted Panne*, 

and Early-flowering Chrysanthemums. -Moils. Ch. 

Molin (Louis Yorax, Gendre, Suocetseur), Place Bale- 

rour, 8. Lyon .—List of Seeds, etc. -R. Wallace and 

Co., KilufleJd Gardens, Colchester.—Bulbs and Plants 

for Spring Planting. -Viimorin et Cie.. 4, Qua] de 

la Megisserie. Paris .—General Catalogue of Seeds for 
inns.— W. Smith and Son, Exchange-street, Aber¬ 
deen .-Spring Seed List for 19US .— Frank Dicks and 
Co.. 68, Deausgate, Manchester .-List of Reliable 
Seeds. J I I' i I - .1 1 fl C R*| 

Books received.— “ Villa Gardens." B£ W. 8. 
lingers. f.d. net. Greening and Co., Ltd., 91, St. 
NTaifin s-Titne. W.C.- ‘ MlfemiH Botanical Garden 

l-.jlit.. iflli llrpofk 1997J]. 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


No. 1,509— Vol. XXIX. 


Founded by IF. Robinson, Author of “ The English Flower Garden.” 


FEBRUARY 8, 1908. 


INDEX. 


Alstra-merias .. .. 661 

Amaryllis, the culture of 656 
Annuals, select, for her¬ 
baceous borders .. 659 
Asparagus, forcing .. 653 

Bees..666 

Birds .666 

Camellias and Rhodo¬ 
dendrons, grafting .. 666 
Carnation Mrs. Burnett 655 
Cere us (Echinopsis) mul¬ 
tiplex .660 

Chrysanthemums — how 
to grow a mixed col¬ 
lection .. .. .. 666 

Clematis montana, 
pruning.6C6 


I Climbers for trellis .. 666 
| Coleus thyrsoideus .. 655 
I Conservatory .. .. 664 

1 Crocus Imperati.. .. 661 

Currants, Red and 
White, as cordons .. 662 
i Cyclamens, growing .. 656 
1 Flaxes, hardy New Zea¬ 
land .661 

Foliage for cutting .. 658 

Fruit .662 

I Fruit garden .. .. 664 

Fruit - trees, pruning 
I newly-planted.. .. 666 

Funkias for potting .. 656 
Garden diary, extracts 
from a.665 


Garden rubbish, burning 654 
Garden walls in summer 661 
Garden work 664 

Geraniums, spring-struck 660 
Gladwin, the .. €61 

Heliotrope, the Winter 
(Petasitea fragrans) .. 660 
Indoor plants 655 

Jasminura nudiflonim.. 663 
Law and custom .. 665 
Moss, Red-cup .. .. 660 

Onion Wroxtou Im¬ 
proved .654 

Outdoor garden .. .. 664 

Outdoor plants .. .. 659 

Palm unhealthy.. .. 666 

Pea, the Daisy .. .. 654 


Peach-house, early .. 664 
Pears dropping .. .. 666 

Pears, late.662 

Pelargoniums unhealthy 666 
Pergola at St. Ann's .. 659 

Petunias.660 

Pines .664 

Plants and flowers .. 655 
Plants, fine-foliaged, 

hardy.661 

Plants, hardy .. .. 666 

Plants in the house .. 664 
Plants, new and uncom¬ 
mon stove and green¬ 
house .€55 

Plants, top - dressing 
hardy.660 


Potatoes, too-much-alike 654 
Poultry .. .. .. 665 

Primula Brilliant King 655 
Raspberries, autumn- 

fruiting .662 

Room and window .. 658 

Roses .657 

Roses, Hybrid Tea, 
under glaBB .. .. 657 

Roses in pots .. .. 657 

RoseB potted in Novem¬ 
ber, pruning .. .. 653 

Roses, Rambler, over¬ 
grown .. .. 658 

Royal Horticultural So¬ 
ciety .. .. .. 665 

Seeds in penny packets 660 


Soot for tennis-lawn .. 666 
Spirica bracteata .. 663 

Stove .664 

Trees and shrubs .. 663 
Trees and thrubs, deci¬ 
duous, in winter .. 663 
Vegetable garden 664 

Vegetables .. ..653 

Vine, replanting a .. 662 
Vineries, work in the .. 664 
Week’s work, the 

coming.664 

Wheat, growing, in a 
walled kitchen garden 654 
Window- boxes .. .. 658 

Winter picture, a .. 663 
Women as gardeners .. 653 


WOMEN AS GARDENERS. 


To the Editor of Gardening Illustrated. 

Sir, —It is a pity that your correspondent, 
“Observer,” did not acquaint himself better 
with his subject before writing about it, 
since if he had taken the trouble to visit one 
of the colleges he condemns, and which he 
evidently imagines to lie places where books 
and theory are substituted for tools and 
practice, he might have seen how very practi¬ 
cal is the instruction there given. 

His simile of the sailor is unfortunate, 
since though it would be difficult to intro¬ 
duce the sea into a nautical college, it is 
perfectly easy to surround a horticultural 
one with soil. 

The best answer to liis assertion that 
women cannot do practical gardening is the 
fact that they do; and any college could 
supply instances of women who, after two or 
three years’ training, have been able to take 
important posts as head gardeners with every 
satisfaction to their employers. On the 
other hand, I have been personally acquainted 
with two young men of ordinary intelligence 
who, after spending respectively six and ten 
years in market gardens and other practical 
establishments, were so ill-equipped with 
horticultural knowledge that one could not 
even prune Roses, and the other was glad to 
get a place as general factotum in a small 
vicarage. Bertha F. H. Paul. 


-It is an old way to say your opponent 

knows nothing of what he writes about, but 
it is not argument, and it would be little to 
the point if I gave my credentials. I gave 
instances, such as trenching, digging out 
subsoil, removing shaly subsoil, and other 
labours impossible for the average woman. 
Miss Paul says nothing about those labours, 
although they constantly fall to the lot of a 
practical gardener. She could givo no 
answer. I have even seen a horticultural 
college, and a poor sight it was after a really 
good garden. She says that women do prac¬ 
tical gardening. If ehe will give me any 
Instances of good gardens managed and 
worked by women, I will go and see them. 
She saj T s two or three years’ training in a 
collegers sufficient. I say it is not possible 
to make a good gardener in that way. 
No man can be a really good gardener, 
or acquire the necessary knowledge to 
make one, who has not passed ten years 
of his youth and early manhood as ap¬ 
prentice, journeyman, and foreman in good 
gnrdens, and the more different in character 
these gardens the better. The reason of such 
preparation is the great number of important 
subjects that now come under the name of 
gardening. She judges gardeners by two 
young semi-idiots, apparently. To be fair, 
what she ought to look at is the general 
state of English gardens in our own day, 
which is largely due to the labours of gar¬ 
deners. No one wishes to limit the oppor¬ 
tunities of women for doing good work and 
acquiring independence; but those who start 
them in that path shouU :J *“ u 

they arc best fitted 


tioujd consider the work 

Go 


there are indoor work even in gardens, and 
flower work, and a number of other things 
as well suited to women as to men, and 
flower-painting after Nature, a beautiful sub¬ 
ject, which is neglected. I once saw many 
applicants for a situation as flower-painter 
and not one of them showed a sample of good 
drawing. That is a thing that could be well 
taught in colleges, and would have an impor¬ 
tant value in many ranks of life; and there 
are many other arts and works which might 
well come under the head of women’s work. 
Look at the state of our cookery. A good 
cook’s knowledge would be one that any 
woman might be proud of. Why not teach 
the art to many?— Observer. 

- I quite agree with what “Observer” 

says on this subject at page 629. Writing 
from long experience, he says that women are 
totally unsuited to perform a good deal of the 
work that is going on in gardens at this time 
of the year. I have had over half a century’s 
experience in some of the largest gardens in 
the kingdom, and certainly should not like 
to see one of my daughters employed at what 
is the very starting point of good gardening 
—viz., deep cultivation of the soil. Picture 
to yourself the woman gardener meeting her 
men before it is barely daylight for months 
together during the shortest days, when 
frost and snow alternate with fog or drench¬ 
ing rain, and when wheelbarrows, spades, 
forks, picks, and other heavy tools are 
needed, to say nothing of ladders, saws, etc., 
for pruning, and say whether it would not 
arouse your sympathy to see one of what is 
called the gentler 6ex in such a false posi¬ 
tion. Suppose we turn to the glass-houses ; 
does any practical gardener suppose that 
stoking and carrying dirty fuel (on which the 
whole concern depends) is work he would 
like to see any female even trying to do? 
Then there is the perpetual shifting in and 
out of the house, or pits and frames, of the 
manure for bottom-heat, the tan for pits, 
and the soil that is needed in such quantities 
for Vine and other borders, for Tomatoes, 
Cucumbers, and endless other things; in 
fact, one only wants a few years’ actual ex¬ 
perience to convince him that garden work, 
even under glass, taxes an average man’s 
strength pretty well all the year round. I 
have no wish to damp the ardour of any of 
the fair aspirants to horticultural fame, but 
I think that those who are persuading them 
to embark on the calling of gardeners are 
very ill-advised. I fail to see the good that 
can result from pushing into an already 
overcrowded calling what may be cnlled the 
physically unfit to compete with thoee al¬ 
ready sadly handicapped by numbers. I 
agree that young women can find suitable 
employment in florists’ and fruiterers* shops, 
but this is not gardening, and it requires a 
great stretch of imagination to suppose that 
any of these so-called colleges are going to 
turn out gardeners equal to those who have 
passed through every department of the call¬ 
ing, and who have not only seen the work 
done, but have actually dope it.— James 
Groom, Comport, 


VEGETABLES. 

FORCING ASPARAGUS. 

No vegetable forced more readily than As¬ 
paragus, when well-matured crowns are avail¬ 
able, as well as the means for forcing. Of 
course, a gentle bottom-heat from a manure- 
bed is the beet; but anyone having a warm- 
house, such as a recently-started vinery or 
Peach-house, can quite easily have a few 
dishes of this choice vegetable. The crowns 
can be placed quite closely together when 
lifted and brought in, scattering sufficient fine 
soil among the roots and over the surface to 
cover them. Warm water should be given to 
settle the whole by the aid of a fine-rosed 
pot. It 16 surprising how soon growth starts 
at this season ; indeed, Asparagus is one of 
the quickest among forced vegetables to give 
a crop. In frames with a gentle bottom-heat 
from fermented manure and leaves one may 
secure a crop of Radishes ; or, if these are 
not favoured, then Lettuces may be similarly 
grown. Time may be gained by sowing these 
thinly in a cutting-box, transplanting tliem at 
equal distances on the surface of the bed, re¬ 
gardless of the Asparagus crowns, as their 
heads will rise through and above the growing 
Lettuces, and the same warmth will suit both 
crops. If frames are depended on for this 
forcing, a sufficient depth of manure and 
leaves to retain warmth for several weeks is 
advisable, for if the heat declines the crop 
will show early signs of checked growth. 
Where abundance of manure is forthcoming, 
it is not difficult to afford additional linings 
with or without the accompaniment of leaves. 
It is surprising what amount of heat can be 
secured from a good-sized bed of tree-leaves 
only ; in fact, when in fairly large bulk, the 
heat from leaves is more lasting and uniform 
than is that from manure. In a heated pit. 
Asparagus forcing is a simple matter, and a 
great depth of manure is by no means neces¬ 
sary. The heat from the hot-water pipes, 
jointly with that from the manure and leaves, 
will keep Asparagus, Lettuces, and Radishes 
moving nicely. It is useless attempting to 
grow Radishes or Lettuce in the early Peach- 
house or vinery, as by the time the trees 
come into leaf it will be found these catch 
crops will be unduly overtaken, and the 
chances for maturity will have vanished. 
Radishes in particular must have light and 
air, or they produce leaves instead of succu¬ 
lent roots. Asparagus should be gathered 
often ; it is best done each morning, \oung 
beds of Asparagus do not yield many gather¬ 
ings of large, edible heads, and a quantity of 
fine “spray” has not much value; in fact, 
it does not repay the labour and attendant 
expense to attempt the forcing of immature 
crowns. Old plantations that have become 
infested with Couch-Grass, Bind-weed, or 
other perennial weeds, and in consequence 
must be sacrificed, make capital forcing 
material; the older they are the better, be¬ 
cause finer heads are given than come from 
young, immature bed?. Those who .h& ve tf> 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 






















G54 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


February 8, 1908 


force Asparagus must needs sow or plant each 
year, in order to maintain a stock. It is 
optional whether sowing or planting is carried 
out; sowing, of course, gives much the less 
trouble, and, where the land suits the Aspara¬ 
gus, seeds may be sown on the level, exactly 
as one does the Onion-bed. This course will 
provide forcing roots in time. I find that in 
small gardens there is a shrinking from the 
task of providing Asparagus, because of the 
length of time that elapses between the sow¬ 
ing and actual return. W. S. 


ONION WROXTON IMPROVED. 
This excellent globular Onion originated at 
Wroxton Abbey, Oxfordshire, when Mr. 
Findlay was gardener there, and, ns its form 
evidences, was a selection from an im¬ 
proved form of the Bedfordshire Champion. 
Amongst other globular forms the Wroxton, 
Champion, and James’ Keeping were at one 


“ pedigree Wheat ” to be had? Soil good, but rather 
shallow—about 2 feet on rock.—B., Somerset. 

[You do not state the acreage, but it is to 
be presumed that, as the land is part of a 
walled kitchen-garden, the area you think of 
devoting to wheat is measured rather by 
perches than by acres. From an economical 
point of view’, taking the average price at 
which wheat can be bought, we should say 
decidedly that the plan & foredoomed to 
failure, and there are many other crops to 
which the land could be better devoted—if, 
that is, you have the means of using them, or 
can disperse of them profitably. Do not mis¬ 
understand the reply. We have not the 
least doubt that in soil in a good condition, 
such as is to be expected in a well-kept kit¬ 
chen-garden, you could grow an excellent 
crop of wheat ; it is the financial result of 
which we are doubtful. If you decide on the 
attempt, you can get good “pedigree” 
wheata from some of the well-known seeds¬ 



Onion Wroxton Improved. 


time the most widely grown. These, have 
largely for exhibition given place to bigger 
bulbing varieties, such as Ailsa Craig, 
Cranston's Excelsior, The Sutton Globe, and 
others, which are, after all, but diverse in 
name, all having precisely similar characters. 
Still for market sale, being produced by the 
ton weight, the older varieties named are 
widely grown. The Improved Wroxton is, 
like its globular compeers, a good keeper, 
especially when a warm, dry autumn enables 
the bulbs to be thoroughly matured. The 
pity is that in this country we do not grow 
these capital Onions by hundreds of tons for 
market sale and common hawking. 


NOTES AND REPLIES . 

Growing Wheat in a walled kitchen garden. 

— Having a walled kitchen garden larger than neces¬ 
sary for vegetables, I should like to know whether it 
would answer to sow a part with Wheat, grind the 
corn iu a hand-mill for household purposes—rolls, etc. 

— and we the rest for/fiw’K? If so. wh* * * 


men, and your best plan would be to write 
to such a firm as Webb’s, of Stourbridge, or 
Sutton’s, of Reading, describing the uses to 
which you wish to put the crop, and also the 
character of the soil, and asking them to 
select a suitable variety. A shallow soil is 
not the best suited for Wheat.] 

Burning garden rubbish.— Will someone tell 
me what is meant by a “ smothering tire,” and how it 
is managed? I have large quantities of decaying 
rubbish collected in heaps from a neglected garden; 
hut 1 have done nothing, so far, but salt them. I 
thought the way to treat them this spring would be 
to sift them, burn the refuse, and lime the sifted 
stuff.—C. W. 9. 

[If the heap has been long in accumulating, 
and the greater part of it is in a half-rotten 
state, then it may be questionable policy to 
burn it. All sticks, 6toncs, or other rubbish 
that will not decav in a few months should 
be forked out, all that will burn being eventu¬ 
ally formed into a slow fire. Decayed gar¬ 
den refuse mixed with lime, or without the 
latter, is an excellent substitute for solid 
manure. Lime, in addition to hastening the 


decay of refuse and destroying insects and 
disease germs, naturally adds considerably 
to the manurial value of the heap generally. 
Failures in burning garden rubbish are often 
due to starting with a feeble fire and smother¬ 
ing this before it could bear the pressure. 
The start ought to be made with a good heap 
of old Pea stakes or some faggots of light 
firewood, piling these in a conical shape over 
some straw’ or dry Pea haulm. This alone is 
not sufficient, but at least two faggots of 
heavy wood or its equivalent in other mode¬ 
rately heavy wood should be arranged on the 
lighter wood before lighting the fire. Directly 
the light wood has caught alight, enclose the 
heap—always conical—with some of the more 
woody, lighter rubbish, so a-s to prevent the 
fire breaking th rough and burning out 
rapidly. On this may be placed a thin layer 
of moister material, adding more wherever 
the fire breaks through, but never a heavy 
weight at one time. During the first day or 
two, and especially while the wood lasts, the 
most attention lias to be paid to the fire, and 
later on an occasional stir up is needed. 
Every evening a fresh covering of garden re¬ 
fuse should be put on, and in the morning, 
wherever it is burned through, more added. 
In this way a great heap of refuse of various 
kinds is gradually reduced to ashes, and in 
its place a valuable heap of “burn-bake” or 
charred soil, charcoal, and wood-ashes. This 
material fis a sure improver of soils; the 
roots of all kinds of fruits, flowers, and vege¬ 
tables revel in it, the plants deriving much 
benefit from its presence in the soil.] 

The Daisy Pea. —This variety has lately 
become very popular for both early and late 
crops; in fact, it has, to a large extent, 
superseded a good many of the older varie¬ 
ties of the American Wonder type. It is of 
stronger habit of growth than most of these, 
growing in average seasons to about 2 feet 
in height, and covered with very fine pods. 
It is just the sort for amateurs with small 
gardens. I prefer the plan of drawing very 
wide, shallow drills, about 2 feet apart, and 
scattering the seed thinly all over the sur¬ 
face, so that when they come up every plant 
stands quite clear of its neighbour ; a few 
sticks, just enough to keep the stems from 
falling over, are a great advantage. Those 
who have not tried this kind should do so, 
and I feel sure they will adopt it as a stan¬ 
dard variety, not only now, but for sowing 
in July, to come in after the tall late Mar¬ 
row sorts.—J. G., Gosport . 

Too-much~alike Potatoes.— Anyone fami¬ 
liar with Potatoes, and especially with the 
late-cropping or Up-to Date section of main 
croppers, knows full well that, but for names, 
distinctions would not exist. Either so many 
varieties are but natural seedlings from some 
parent variety, or, if the product of arti¬ 
ficial crossing, are practically reproductions 
of one or other of the parents. In any case, 
there is the fact that, whether in plant- 
growth, colour of flower, or in character of 
tuber, differences do not exist. If it be 
pleaded—and it is a fair plea—that it is not 
now possible with w’hite-tubered varieties to 
produce any seedlings absolutely distinct 
from some older ones, then it is best to de¬ 
scribe such as new seedling stock of what¬ 
ever it is a reproduction, so that no one may 
assume that a diverse name means an abso¬ 
lutely distinct variety. This great similarity 
of form in tubers was seen in a marked de¬ 
gree in a collection of some fifty dishes of 
tubers shown by a gardener from Bucks at 
a recent meeting of the Royal Horticultural 
Society. A handsomer, cleaner, brighter, 
and more even collection of tubers I have 
never seen set up for exhibition in January, 
and the grower merited all praise. But either 
the naming of the many white varieties was 
surprisingly wrong, or, if rightly named, 
there was the similarity of the tubers to each 
other most marked. No wonder this fact 
evoked strong comment on the part of the 
Fruit and Vegetable Committee. Coloured 
Potatoes, though not widely grown or en¬ 
couraged, yet have the merit of being all dis¬ 
tinct and at once recognised. I wish I could 
say as much of white varieties. Of the Up- 
to-Date section it is possible to lump together 
a dozen or so, and, once mixed, practically no 
difference, in top or in tuber would be seen.— 

UfYgycnbl it Ur ILLINOIS Al 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




February 8, 1908 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


655 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

INDOOR PLANTS. 

CARNATION MRS. BURNETT. 

This is a Guernsey-raised variety, with not 
a little of the blood of the American winter¬ 
flowering Carnation in its veins. It has been 
stated that one of its parents is the well- 
known Mrs. T. W. Lawson, but there is 
nothing in the habit of Mrs. Burnett or the 
manner of its flower-production that would 
suggest this for a moment. Mrs. Burnett is 
an ideal Carnation, and in colour, habit, and 
the exceedingly easy way the cuttings root 
it is not easy to beat. After the old Miss 
Joliffe, it is one of the most bushy-habited 
varieties I have seen. In certain stages 
and in a certain degree of warmth it is very 


literally glow, 60 clear and yet gorgeous is 
the colour. The flowers arc, in addition, 

| large and well-formed, while the fine robust 
and erect trusses are borne well above tho 
! foliage. The habit of th£ plant is decidedly 
vigorous, the foliage is bold, and extra fine 
| specimens can be obtained without much 
trouble by those who are acquainted with the 
I requirements of the Chinese Primrose.— 

1 A. W. 


NEW AND UNCOMMON STOVE AND 
GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 

| During the year 1907 a considerable number 
I of different subjects have received either 
! first-class certificates or awards of merit from 
1 the Royal Horticultural Society. Of the 
j stove and greenhouse plants so honoured all 
j are not new, as is generally supposed, but the 
older kinds well merit the honours bestowed 



Carnation Mrs. Burnett. 


fragrant. The colour, too, is beautiful at its 
best; but its “best colour” is only seen 
where the full influence of sun-lieat and sun¬ 
light reaches the plants in winter. These 
are its good points ; but there is another side 
to the picture. The variety is, undoubtedly, 
the worst “rust’’-stricken kind I have seen, 
and already not a few of the largest growers 
have discarded it for this reason. To be 
bad free, or comparatively free, from rust 
the plants must be grown under glass alw ays, 
and this, in all probability, would render it 
a prey to the red-spider, which is to be 
almost equally dreaded. E. J. 


Primula Brilliant King.— Those who ad 
mire the flow r er of the Chinese Primros 
should grow this dark crimson-flowerc< 
variety. It is one of the richest and mos 
intensely coloured Primulas I am ac-quainte 
with, and the flowers, whether viewed 
close quarters or fr« 

Digitized 


'""Gor.gle 


upon them. The different. Carnations, Chrys¬ 
anthemums, and Roses have been frequently 
in the pages of Gardening Illustrated 
dealt with by specialists, and the other 
I various subjects are ns below : — 

Agapetes speciosa.— A very beautiful 
hard-wooded shrub, belonging to the Vac- 
i ciniuni family. It is considered to be a 
j native of Burmah, and attracted a good deal 
I of attention when shown by Mr. Bennett-Poe 
on March 19th. The leaves of this Agapetes 
j suggest in shape, colour, and texture those 
j of a Japanese Rhododendron, while the 
flowers, borne in axillary clusters towards the 
I points of the shoots, are of an inflated, tubu¬ 
lar shape, with spreading lobes. They are 
bright crimson in colour, and about a couple 
of inches long. A botanical certificate w’as 
first aw’arded to this beautiful greenhouse 
plant, but. afterwards a first-class certificate 
was bestow'cd upon it. 

Arctotis regalts. —This was exhibited 
on R.-ptombcr 3rd ns a hybrid between the ! 


white or whitish-coloured A. grandis and the 
orange-tinted A. aureola. The flowers are 
large and white, with a narrow' band of yel¬ 
low around the disc. Purple-tinted anthers 
add much to the beauty of the flower. 

Begonia (tuberous'varieties).— Four of 
these were given awards of merit at the 
Temple show—viz., Mrs. J. C. Gwillim 
(double), soft rich salmon-rose ; Lady Cromer 
(double), broad petals of a bright pink-tinted 
salmon; Rlioda Pope (double), a Camellia¬ 
like flower of a beautiful 6oft pink; William 
Marshall (double), exceedingly bright scarlet, 
with crimped petals. 

Begonia Miss Clibran.— One of the 
socotraiia hybrids, with whose beauty for 
late autumn and early winter flowering 
Messrs. Veitch have made us so familiar. 
The flowers of Miss Clibran are double, and 
bright pink in colour. Award of merit 
November 12th. 

Caladium Thomas Tomlinson.— A strik¬ 
ing Caladium, whose sagittate leaves are of 
medium size, and in colour rich red in the 
centre, shading off to a greenish tinge at the 
edge. Tho middle portion of the leaf is, in 
addition, splashed with various tints. Award 
of merit May 28th. 

Calceolaria Veitch’s Hybrid.—A cross 
between the hardy C. plantaginea and a mem¬ 
ber of the herbaceous section. It reaches a 
height of 1 foot to 2 feet, and bears in pro¬ 
fusion medium-sized flowers of a bright yel¬ 
low' colour, dotted with red. It was raised 
and exhibited by Messrs. Robert Veitch, of 
Exeter, where it was said to be hardy, but in 
most parts of England it will, probably, re¬ 
quire the protection of a greenhouse. Award 
of merit June 25th. 

Canna Mme. Louis Vorax.— A grand 
flowering Canna, whose flowers are of a 
bright yellow colour, with red veining, dis¬ 
posed more or less in circles. Award of merit 
September 3rd. 

Clivia miniata citrina.— A very distinct 
variety of the popular Clivia miniata (Iman- 
tophyilum miniatum of gardens). In the 
typical form the flowers are of an orange or 
salmon-red tint, but in this particular variety 
they are of a pale cream or 6traw colour, 
tinged in the centre with orange. This 
variety first floxvered in this country at Kew r 
in the year 1897, the plant having been sent 
from Zululand. Award of merit May 14th. 

Coleus Cordelia. —About five-and-twenty 
years ago new forms of Coleus were as plenti¬ 
ful as Blackberries, but we do not often see 
them submitted to the floral committee now¬ 
adays. This variety, which was given an 
award of merit on June 20th, is very striking, 
the large, crinkled leaves being, for the most 
part, of a brilliant red, with here and there 
a shade of orange. The older leaves have the 
orange more pronounced than the younger 
ones. 

Crinum Mearsi. —Quite a miniature 
species, the whole plant being under a foot 
in height. The flowers, borne in umbels, are 
pure white and starry in shape, with narrow 
segments over 2 inches long. The loaves are 
wavy, margined, and about 8 inches in length. 
First-class certificate July 9th. 

Crinum H. J. Elwes.—A hybrid between 
C. Moorci and C. americanum. It is a 
beautiful form of a rich rosy-pink, suggest¬ 
ing the Belladonna Lily. Award of merit 
July 9th. 

Eucalyptus ficifolia. The Gum-trees 
of Australia are usually regarded rather in 
the light of timber-producing than flowering 
trees. An exception must be made in the 
case of E. ficifolia, for when flowering 
branches were shown at a meeting held on 
August 6th, it w’as given a first-class certifi¬ 
cate. In this species the long filaments, 
which, as in many members of the Myrtle 
family, form the major portion of the flower, 
are of a bright glowing scarlet colour. 
Though this species was sent out as a new 
plant by the late Mr. William Bull, of Chel¬ 
sea, just twenty-five years ago, this is, l 
believe, the first recorded instance of it. 
flowering in this country. 

Freesia Chapmani. — A very pretty 
Frecsia, obtained by the intercrossing of F. 
refracta alba and F. aurea. The flowers are 
yellow, w'ith orange shading on the lower 
segments. z As tl+e flowers of R aurea are al¬ 
most, if not quite, -scentlpsW,H ! tNvill be under- 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 







656 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Februari 8, 1908 


stood that in this form the fragrance is less 
pronounced than in the popular F. refracta 
alba. Award of merit March 5th. 

Fbeesia Tubergeni Amethyst.— The 
original F. Tubergeni was the result of cross¬ 
ing F. refracta alba and the pink-flowered 
F. Armstrongi. The variety Amethyst was 
obtained from F. Tubergeni crossed with F. 
refracta alba. The flowers of Amethyst are 
large and pinkish lilac in colour. Award of 
merit April 16th. 

Fuchsia Coralle.—O ne of the triphylla 
hybrids, of which there are now several in 
cultivation. In this particular form the 
flowers, borne in large pendent clusters, are 
in colour a kind of reddish-orange. Award 
of merit September 3rd. 

Hippeabtrum (garden varieties). Two 
of these were given awards of merit on April 
2nd—viz., Lady Howick, rose-lake, mottled 
with white, with a white band in the centre 
of each segment, and Vulcan, rich maroon- 
crimson. 

Hippea8TRUM Mrs. Carl Jay.—A n ex¬ 
ceedingly free flowering and very beautiful 
variety, in whose production Hippeastrum 
reticulatum played a part. In Mrs. Carl Jay 
the white band of H. reticulatum shows 
markedly in the leaves, while the flowers are 
whitish, veined and reticulated with rosy- 
red. This variety attracted a large share of 
attention when an award of merit was given 
it on June 11th. 

Kalanchoe Dyeri. —The advent of the 
bright-coloured K. flannnea and the popu¬ 
larity it has now attained has led to increased 
attention being given to Kalanchoes in 
general. Kalanchoe Dyeri reaches a height 
of 3 feet to 4 feet, and bears a head of long- 
tubed white flowers, suggesting in a marked 
manner those of the Jasmine, but much 
larger. It is a native of Central Africa, and 
was given an award of merit on February 
13th. 

Lachenalia May Crossbie.— Mr. F. W. 
Moore, of Glasnevin, is well-known as a 
raiser of many beautiful Lachenalias, and 
this, from the same source, is worthy to rank 
with the best of them. The flowers are of a 
beautiful orange yellow colour, and an award 
of merit was given it on March 5th. 

Montanoa bipinnatifida. —A large-grow¬ 
ing Mexican composite, that, as shown on 
December 10th, bids fair to prove valuable 
for its winter-flowering qualities. The plants 
as shown varied from 2 feet to 5 feet in 
height, with handsome bipinnate leaves, and 
large, Marguerite-like flowers, each 3 inches 
or so in diameter. Award of merit. 

Nepenthes Ruby.— This, the result of 
crossing N. sanguineaand N. Curtisj superba, 
has large, broad pitchers of a bright ruby- 
red colour. It was shown by Messrs. Veitch, 
and an award of merit given it on October 
15 th. 

Nerine F. D. Godman. —A very pretty 
silvery-red form of the Guernsey Lily, to 
which an award of merit was given on October 
29th. 

Nerine Purple Princess. — A similar 
award was given on November 12th to this, 
one of the many seedlings raised by Mr. H. J. 
Elwes. The flowers are of a purplish-scarlet 
colour. 

Primula Cockburniana. — A distinct 
species from Western China, introduced by 
Messrs. Veitch. The colour of the flower is a 
bright orange-scarlet. Award of merit 
April 16th. 

Primula Unique.— This was obtuined from 
P. pulverulenta crossed with P. Coek- 
burniana. The plant, has many of the char¬ 
acteristics of P. pulverulenta, while the 
flowers are of a bright rosy-red colour, with a 
suffusion of orange. Award of merit May 28th. 

Rhododendron (Azalea) amcenum Hexe. 
v—A very pretty variety, raised some thirty 
yzars ago by Mr. Otto Forster, of Lehenhcf, 
in Germany. It was obtained from a one¬ 
time popular variety of the Indian section, 
Azalea Due de Nassau, pollinated with a good 
f«irm of A. amoena. The flowers of Hexe 
possess the hose-in-liose character of A. 
amoena, and are of a bright purplisli-red 
colour. Award of merit March 5th. 

Streptocarpus (Burdett’s Strain). —On 
August 20th an award of merit was bestowed 
upon a remarkably ffr* strain of Sfreptonvr- 

Digits by GOOgle 


pus. The plants shown were simply a mass 
of large flowers, in colour bluish-violet, with 
crimson blotches near the mouth. X. 


GROWING, CYCLAMENS. 

I will be grateful for an article on growing Persian 
Cyclamen to bloom in greenhouse.—M. Money, Pulte- 
ncy Hotel, Bath. 

[The Cyclamen is a greenhouse plant, and 
there is no need of stove treatment at any 
time. All that is needed is a genial, moist 
temperature with all the light possible in 
the earlier stages, and shade from bright 
sunshine later in the season. The best time 
to sow the seed is, undoubtedly, as soon as 
it is ripe. The longer it is exposed to the 
air the weaker its germinating power. Care 
is necessary in 6aving the seed, the cap¬ 
sules bursting and wasting it if allowed to 
remain too long on the plant. Sheets of 
white paper may be laid between the pots, 
and the seed-pods picked when fully ripe 
before they burst. Sow thinly about £ inch 
below the surface in pans, using rather 
coarse silver sand with the compost. The 
seedlings may remain in the seed-pans long 
enough to get the second leaf—only one ap¬ 
pearing at first—and here the advantage of 
thin sowing is apparent. A temperature at 
night of about 60 degs. is ample at this 
stage, and the house may be, if possible, 
kept a little closer when the young seedlings 
are placed into the small pots. The little 
bulbs and roots should be lifted out with as 
little disturbance as possible, and as the 
former in the early stages rest on the sur¬ 
face, they must be potted just a little lower. 
At this and subsequent shifts the compost 
may consist of good fibrous loam, three 
parts to one of peat and leaf-mould, adding 
to this a little well-dried cow-manure and a 
plentiful sprinkling of coarse sand. At the 
first potting this cannot, of course, be used 
in a rough state, but when the larger size is 
reached the rougher the better. Soil, of 
course, is an important matter, but careful 
atmospheric treatment is far more so. The 
best position for the plants all through the 
spring and summer is on the light, open 
I stages in low- span-roofed houses, or else on 
temporary shelves fixed fairly close to the 
roof glass. In the latter position they are, 
of course, apt to dry up rapidly and the 
roots are checked, so examination of the 
pots twice daily in summer is imperative. 
The shift into the flowering pots may take 
place at any time between the middle of 
July and the end of September, according, 
of course, as the plants are early or late. 
Seeds sown in the latter month are fine 
plants by the end of July, and may be 
otted then. These should commence to 
ow'er in November and go on till Mart-h at 
least, and are the most useful batch. 

Regarding the resting treatment after the 
plants have flowered, there is a great differ¬ 
ence of opinion among growers. Whichever 
is the right way, there is no doubt the care¬ 
less practice of standing them as thickly as 
they can possibly stand in dark pits, frames, 
or elsewhere is decidedly wrong. No air 
reaches the leaves, and these naturally soon 
turn yellow and drop. Some of the plants 
are very dry, while others are wet, for it is 
impossible to tell whether they want water 
or not. In one case they are starved and 
weakened ; in the other the roots are all 
killed, and the bulbs are sure to start badly. 
The best plan is to remove the light shading 
provided while the plants are in flower, and 
water as usual until the foliage shows signs 
of ripening. Then the water supply is 
gradually withheld, and the plants have a 
month or two at midsummer without any 
water at all. In 6ome cases all the foliage 
dies off; in others a few of the younger, 
strong leaves remain, but these, as a rule, 
fall as soon as the bulbs commence to grow. 
Repot when signs of growth appear after a 
good soaking of water has been given. With 
these old plants it is safest to leave the top 
of the bulb just above the compost line. 
Shake out most of the old material from the 
roots, and pot fairly firm. Water ns little 
as possible until the roots have had time to 
get out into the new material, and keep a 
moist growing temperature about them. 
Light svringingfl are helpful in nil stages of 
the growth of the Cyclamen, but the water 


must be discharged in a very fine spray, and, 
as far as possible, applied to the undersides 
of the leaves rather than the upper. For 
feeding the plants use weak guano-water at 
frequent intervals alternately with the same 
quality of clarified soot-water, the good 
effect of the latter being especially apparent 
in the healthy appearance of the foliage. 
Should thrips or green-fly appear, fumigate 
or vaporise the house at once.] 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

The culture of Amaryllis.— Reading in 
Gardening of January 11th the reply to 
G. A. Falkner and “W. on the treatment of 
Amaryllis, makes me think it may be in¬ 
teresting to others to know how very easily 
these plants can be grow n ; so I venture to 
ive my treatment of them. My plants 
loom all the year round, except during 
August and September. At this date 
(January 14th), I have a plant of Amaryllis 
auliea in the house in full bloom, one bulb 
having two flower-stems, each with two large 
blossoms, and a third stem is coming up. I 
find no trouble in growing the Amaryllises, 
and they increase rapidly. September ia 
supposed to be the proper time for repotting 
these bulbs, aud they require potting once a 
year; but by repotting at different times 
during the year, a succession of bloom is kept 
up. After repotting, give more heat. The 
winter temperature I give is about 50 decs. 
It is supposed to be higher, but often falls 
lower. The soil used for potting is a mixture 
of old loam and rotten manure, with a little 
sand (I never use either peat or leaf-mould). 
Give plenty of good drainage, and pot firmly. 
Watering should bo carefully done, and I 
ahvays place all the plants in a frame in full 
sunshine from June to September, and give 
no water whatever during that time. This 
thoroughly ripens the bulbe, and consequently 
they flow r er better. Amaryllis auliea will 
grow' in a cold greenhouse, and bloom during 
summer. In repotting, all offsets should be 
removed, and grown on by themselves.— 
Frances E. A. V. Brenan, Ballymazcanlan, 
Co. Louth. 

Coleus thyr8oideus.— For richness of 
colour, we have no other plant in winter that 
can equal this Coleus, which hailw from 
central Africa. It is, perhape, unfortunately, 
inclined to grow too tall for the small ama¬ 
teur’s greenhouse, but one or two specimens 
will be very bright placed among other green¬ 
house subjects in winter. It may be raised 
from seed or from cuttings once a stock is in 
hand, and there is no difficulty in connection 
with striking or growing it under ordinary 
warm greenhouse conditions. Its season of 
flowering will extend from November till 
February. In summer it is readily accommo¬ 
dated in frames or even outdoors. In the 
conservatory, arranged among white, pink, or 
yellow Chrysanthemums and other plants in 
bloom, the blue flowers are very effective. 
Plants should be propagated from cuttings 
each year, the older plants being thrown 
away, as I find, from spring-struck cuttings, 
ample time is allowed before winter to per¬ 
fect the growth and flowers. Pots not larger 
than 6-inch suffice for this Coleus, and the 
tops must be pinched out as soon as the cut¬ 
tings are rooted, and once again later, to 
induce a branching grow'th. Late pinching 
must not be persisted in, or there will be a 
paucity of bloom. Seed-raising is not a 
difficult matter, if the warmth of a propa¬ 
gating frame or hotbed is available, potting 
as may be necessary. Time for sowing must 
depend largely on accommodation, but 
usually there are hotbeds in March which 
can be utilised for raising these aud many 
other plants.— West Wilts. 

Funkias for potting —There are no more hardy 
plants amongst herbaceous subjects, for no winter, 
however severe, seems to affect the broad-leaved 
grandiflora, whilst the more attractive striped foliage 
sorts, like ovata undulata and aurea marginata. are 
amongst the most attractive in the garden in May. 
and they, too, are very hardy. Not often is it that 
they are considered in the light of subjects for lift¬ 
ing from the ground nnd potting, but when so used 
the effect of their pleasing leaves in the early spring 
on a greenhouse stage is not to be despised. It is 
almost needless to say that, so far as forcing goes, 
they need little of it. for with very little warmth, 
the’leaves quickly unfold. Now is a suitable time to 
lift them when weather permits, and for a time 
at least after potting they should be placed In a fold* 

OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



February 8, ] D03 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


657 


ROSES. 

HYBRID TEAS UNDER GLASS. 
This valued group is recognised as the most 
useful for growing under glass. This is very 
evident from the large demand for such popu¬ 
lar favourites as Liberty, Mme. Abel Chate- 
nay, Richmond, and the like. But there are a 
few varieties that are only to be seen in per¬ 
fection Avhen grown under glass, and such an 
one is the subject of the illustration—Mine. 
Helen Gambier. It 6eems to require artifi¬ 
cial heat to enable it to bring to perfection 
its very double blossoms, although in a hot 
season like that of 1906 splendid flowers were 
seen, proving its value in tropical and semi- 
tropical climates. It was one of the early 
introductions of that eminent raiser, Mons. 
Pernet-Ducher, having been sent out some 
twelve years ago. The colour is a salmon- 
flesh with coppery shadings, and, as may be 
seen from the illustration, it is a full flower 
of good size. I have had great success. with 
this variety grown in standard form in pots, 
and it is as standards that many Hybrid Teas 
prove so valuable under glass. The splendid 
heads they will carry bearing those superb 


6-iuch potfull to a wheelbarrowfull of the 
compost. Should the loam be inclined to 
heaviness a little silver sand should be added. 
After potting, plunge the plants outdoors over 
the rim of tho pot, using coal-ashes if avail¬ 
able, otherwise soil or Cocoa-nut-fibre. 

Prune the plants about the second week in 
March, and 1 would advise fairly hard prun¬ 
ing the first year, as this lays the foundation 
for a more perfect-shaped head eventually. 
Allow the standards to remain plunged where 
they are until May, when they may be thinned 
out to a distance of about 2\ feet apart in as 
sunny a spot as can be found. Careful 
watering is very necessary, also diligent 
searching for insect pests. As growth de¬ 
velops the shoots may be tied out a little by 
attaching a piece of raffia to the shoot and 
securing the raffia to the stem. A well- 
balanced head is soon finished. 

Roses such as Mme. Abel Chatenay do not 
grow nearly so uniformly as varieties of the 
Antoine Rivoire type, but I recommend a trial 
of all popular sorts. Roses of the Antoine 
Rivoire type are superb, and have become now 
quite indispensable. I quite expect 6uch re¬ 
cent novelties as Joseph Hill, Dr. J. Camp¬ 
bell Hall, Earl of Warwick, Dean Hole, 



Rose Mme. Helen Gambier. 


blossoms are well worth a little extra trouble 
to produce. There is another variety, also of 
M. Pernet-Ducher’s introduction, which is 
really only suitable for indoor culture, and 
that is L’lnnocence. It is grown as a market 
variety by some, and n really good white it is. 
Tho flowers are grand in form and double, 
but the petals arc 60 extremely thin that the 
variety is most impatient of wet. I have 
never seen it successfully grown outdoors, but 
I can strongly recommend it for indoor cul¬ 
ture, because it has a close affinity to that 
excellent Rose Caroline Testout. 

There can be no doubt that the quality ob¬ 
tained on standard or half-standard plants is 
greatly in advance of that obtained from 
bushes, and a well-balanced standard bearing 
some ten to twenty blossoms makes a really 
magnificent conservatory specimen. 

It is not easy to procure standard Hybrid 
Teas established in pots, but one has an op¬ 
portunity of potting them up a year in ad¬ 
vance, and it would not be too late to do so 
now. The pots to start with are known as 
16’s. This just allows of enough space" for the 
somewhat awkward root. Firm potting is 
best, using a compost nl^good loam,-three 
parts ; old fobbed manure. on° !¥***§ 

* inch iJd/ies or boncAir itj VlII 1 1 1 < f t 1 Vlf a 


Florence Pemberton, Mrs. E. G. Hill, 
Melanie Soupert, Wm. Shean, Lady Ashtown, 
etc., will be equally as fine under the same 
conditions. This artificial culture seems to 
bring out quite hidden charms that were never 
supposed to belong to the Rose. I have seen 
flowers of that grand variety Paul Lede of a 
most remarkable colour when grown under 
glass, and the same may he said of Joseph 
Hill, Marquise de Sinety, and others. 

A valuable trait of most of these Hybrid 
Teas lies in their readiness to adapt them¬ 
selves to a comparatively low temperature, 
such as the Teas of the Niphetos and 
Catherine Mermet type could not be success¬ 
fully cultivated in, so that all who possess 
greenhouses where just the frost is kept out 
may be gratified to know that they may grow 
some of the choicest Roses therein provided 
they start with strong, well-established plants 
in pots or planted out. Rosa. 


Rose Niplietos in greenhouse.—\N ill Rosa 
suggest a cause for the very weakly growth of a 
Niphetos Rose, in pot, trained up a greenhouse wall, 
very sunny position. Last Easter, in my absence, 
watering was neelected, and the hot sunshine so 
affected it that the flowers fell. I cannot plant it 
out, as it fills a corner where there is no border — 
srmiutAN. 


ROSES IN POTS. 

(Reply to P. H. Coats.) 

Anyone attempting the culture of Rosea 
under glass should, if possible, devote a hou6e 
or pits exclusively to them. This would be 
impossible with a number of readers, for they 
must needs have their few Roses in the same 
house as their Pelargoniums, Fuchsias, 
Azaleas, and the like, but in the following 
notes even such as grow Roses under these 
somewhat difficult conditions may get some 
help. 

All who can carry their recollection back 
to the early seventies, up to and including 
the eighties, will remember the huge speci¬ 
men pot-Roses that were wont to be exhibited 
at the May shows in London, Manchester, 
and elsewhere; and certainly they were 
monuments of cultural skill, some of them 
carrying as many as 150 blossoms full out at 
one time. The day seems gone by for these 
extra large specimens, which is to be re¬ 
gretted, for I consider they evinced far more 
cultural skill to obtain them in blossom to 
the day than the pot-Roses seen at the pre¬ 
sent time. But if we do not find these large 
specimens we see vast quantities of glass 
given up entirely to the culture of Roses. I 
know of one huge block fully 600 feet long 
containing nothing but Roses, mostly planted 
out. Instead of diminishing, the Rose as a 
forced flower is gaining in favour every year, 
and there are scores of growers. In most 
cases, one house is filled with one variety. 
Thus we may see a house entirely filled with 
Richmond, Mme. Abel Chatenay, or Brides¬ 
maid. 

Roses to bloom from September to 
January. —This can be accomplished in two 
ways : (a) By having a set of plants in pots, 
grown outdoors, from which the bloom-buds 
have been pinched off, and (b) from plants 
planted out under glass. The former can be 
obtained by potting up the desired number 
the October previous and keeping them out¬ 
doors all the time, or plants may bo pur¬ 
chased in summer already established in 
pots. The former are primed in March and 
plunged in a sunny position, and, instead of 
allowing them to blossom, all buds are re¬ 
moved until about August. The plants are 
then just slightly pruned and placed in a 
greenhouse where a temperature of about 
50 degs. by night can be given. The sorts 
for this purpose should be selected from the 
thin-flowered Tea and Hybrid Tea groups, 
such as Safrano, Corallina, Richmond, Kil- 
larney, G. Nabonnand, etc. The plants 
should be just kept on the move, and they 
will keep on growing just as they would out¬ 
doors, if frost and cold nights did not check 
them. To stand or plunge the plants in a 
bed of leaves would aid the development con- 
siderably. After the flowering the plants 
should be placed in a cold frame, from which 
the frost can be excluded, and kept rather 
dry at the root. These plants could be used 
to flower again from April to May, if desired. 
Should it be decided so to use them, they 
Ghould be pruned in January or February, 
and would be in bloom in an ordinary heated 
greenhouse in from ten to twelve weeks. 
Supposing no greenhouse room were avail¬ 
able for them, they could be kept in the cold- 
pits until June, repotting them about that 
time, and after being kept somewhat close 
for two or three weeks, to enable new roots 
to work into the fresh soil, they should be 
plunged outdoors in a sunny position ready 
for use again the next autumn. During the 
summer it is more natural for pot-Roses to 
be outdoors, and although the season may bo 
a wet one, yet the plants would thrive much 
better than’if under glass, however slight a 
structure might be prepared for them. When 
they have made a good growth, and it is 
considered necessary to ripen the wood, the 
simplest plan is to lay the plants on their 
sides. I have always found sifted ashes one 
of the best materials to plungs the pots into. 
Of course, the top of the pot is kept free, 60 
that water may be applied when necessary. 
Our second plan of obtaining Roses in late 
autumn is from plants planted out in the 
Rose-house. These are usually dried off dur¬ 
ing July and August, having flowered more 
or less since March. They arc then pruned 
(not severely), and allowed to grow naturally 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




G58 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Februaui 8 , 1908 


at first, with plenty of air given night and 
day ; as the nights become cool air is shut off 
and a gentle artificial heat given. The bor¬ 
ders must be well soaked with water. From 
such plants good blossoms are available right 
up to Christmas, and even later. There is a 
large demand and good prices are obtained for 
crimson Roses during January and February, 
and for this purpose Liberty and Richmond 
are the sorts to grow. Pot plants are best. 
They must be well dried off in September. 
Our sunless weather during November and 
December is a factor to be reckoned with, 
60 that it behoves us to see that our houses 
are light, with as few sash-bars as possible, 
and leaning to the south. Such plants ns 
would produce a paying crop in January and 
February are totally different from those we 
first named, from which buds have been 
pinched off. These are induced to blossom 
from the summer wood, whereas the latter 
are pruned back into the spring wood, con¬ 
sequently more artificial heat is needed for 
them. As there are, doubtless, many readers 
of Gardening who would like to grow a few 
pot-Roses this season, it may be best in 
treating of 

Roses to flower from March to May, 
to 6ay what 6ort of plants they should pro¬ 
cure. It is best to commence with plants 
established at least twelve months in their 
pots. These are grown in 5 inch. 7 inch, and 
8-inch pots, the last being by far the best 
value. As to varieties, put yourself in the 
hands of a good nurseryman, and tell him 
what you desire. They could be sent without 
pots and replaced into pots on arrival. Having 
procured the plants, examine the crocks, and, 
if choked with soil, clean them. Then re¬ 
move about 2 inches of the surface soil, give 
a sprinkling of some good artificial manure, 
and replace soil removed with some nice com¬ 
post. such ns loam and well-decayed manure 
in about equal parts. The plants should now 
be pruned, cutting the Hybrid Perpetuals 
rather severely, but the Teas and Hybrid 
Tens rather moderately. On examination it 
will be found the Teas and Hybrid Teas make 
about three sets of growths in the year, and 
we usually prune into the second growth ; 
that would be in the case of plants in 8-inch 
pots, cutting them back to within about 
12 inches to 15 inches from the top of the 
pot. If wanted to flower at different periods, 
prune in batches, and keep in cold-frames. 
Hybrid Teas are decidedly tlie best to grow 
for this purpose, but some of the Tea-scented, 
such as Niphetos, Lady Roberts, Bridesmaid, 
etc., are lovely. Both these tribes need more 
warmth than the Hybrid Perpetuals, from 
which we obtain the most brilliant crimsons 
and also the most fragrant sorts. The Poly- 
antha and Monthly Roses are also very 
beautiful as pot-Roses. The temperature 
should be very steady at first—about 45 degs. 
to 50 degs. at.night, gradually increasing to 
55 degs. and 60 degs. Of course, when the 
sun shines, a higher temperature will be 
leached, but this will do no harm. Try and 
maintain a uniform temperature, tut if out¬ 
side conditions are low, do not try to make 
up for this by fierce artificial heat. Roses 
like to come along steadily. When foliage is 
full grown and buds are seen, they may be 
forced along then, if desired, but the best 
quality of blossom comes from a steady tem¬ 
perature. If the staging is latticed wood, 
put 6lates on to this, and cover with ashes, 
then raise the plants upon inverted pots. If 
the staging is fairly near to the glass, this 
raising on pots is not essential. Large plants 
should alwavs stand on inverted pots or two 
bricks. Bottom-lieat is very helpful, nothing 
being better than leaves or tan. 

Some growers are afraid to give air in the 
winter. T always find it best, to give a little 
every dav, even if the weather is very severe. 
It should be given on the sheltered side of the 
house. Avoid cold draughts. Better to have 
air always entering, day and night, rather 
than spasmodic gusts of cold air. The glass 
in some greenhouses is so faulty that air con¬ 
stantly enters under the laps, so that there 
is no need to afford much more. In a verv 
close-fitting house it is a good plan to always 
have just a chink of air in one of the top 
ventilators. Watering is rarely understood. 
Better give a plant iv-g^od soaking |han fre¬ 
quent gijEijjljiJg,- Aftf 


; iwgqod soaking th 

yoogt 


Wtkjng 


the syringe w ill supply enough moisture during 
the dull winter days—at least, for some time. 
When the pots ring clear on being tapped it is 
a good 6ign water is needed. It should al¬ 
ways be chilled. Syringing should be done 
every morning after pruning, but as the 
growths develop only syringe on bright morn¬ 
ings, and when foliage is well advanced do 
not syringe much. The floors may, however, 
be damped down. This keeps red-spider in 
check. 

Tying out and training are too often 
neglected. Open out the plants by means of 
small, neat sticks, for it is important that 
foliage should receive as much light and air 
as possible. After pruning I like to give 
plants a sprinkling of bone-meal. When 
flower-buds are iust seen liquid-manure is 
given once a week, and if the buds seem to 
need it, a sprinkling of guano is afforded and 
watered in or diluted at the rate of 1 lb. 
to eighteen gallons of water. A bushel of 
cow-manure and a peck of soot in bags 
dropped into a forty-gallon cask of water 
make fine liquid-manure. This may be ap¬ 
plied at the rate of one part to six parts of 
water at first, and then, when buds are about 
the 6ize of marbles, give it about half-and- 
half. The manure and soot should be re¬ 
newed occasionally. Blinds that can be 
drawn up on dull days are the l>est shading, 
but sprinkling of whitewash containing 
some oil is very good. The Hybrid Per¬ 
petuals and some of the Hybrid Teas develop 
best in a cold, north-house as soon as colour 
becomes visible. Stir surface soil occasion¬ 
ally, to aid in evaporation, and also to 
sweeten. 

Pests, insect and fungoid. —The grub 
is very troublesome this year. One needs to 
look very closely into the young growths 
for the little black culprits, or the shoots 
will be ruined. Aphis or green fly is best 
destroyed by vaporising. Red-spider can only 
be kept in check by frequent syringing, 
especially beneath the foliage. This pest 
causes the leaves to appear rusty. Avoid a 
dry atmosphere, which encourages red-spider. 
Mildew' can be checked if, when the spots are 
seen, they are rubbed over with sulphur. 
Dusting sulphur on foliage in advance of the 
attack is a good plan, and the pipes should 
bd painted with sulphur mixed with skim 
milk. 

Of the Tea and Hybrid section, a 
second crop may be tuken under glass. Just 
prune them over a little and keep rather on 
the dry side for a few days. Syringe fre¬ 
quently, and plants must not lack for water 
now. 

For Teas and Hybrid Teas the best time 
for repotting is June and July, keeping the 
plants under glass for a time, and then out¬ 
doors for the summer, plunged in ashes. 
Hybrid Perpetuals may be left until Septem¬ 
ber. Do not repot unless pots are full of 
roots. Fibrous loam three parts, well-rotted 
hotbed manure one part, leaf-soil one part, 
and a little sand make a good compost. Do 
not have the pots too large. Bitter err on 
the other side, for we can always feed the 
plants os they need it. Over-potting often 
causes a sourness of soil. Should heavy 
rains come, it is a simple matter to lay the 
plants on their sides. This should always 
be done a month or so before bringing the 
plants under glass. 

The cultivation of Rcses in cold pits will 
be dealt with in a coming issue. 

Rosa. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Rambler Roses overgrown. 1 have read your 
article in a recent issue rc Roses (Ramblers) with 
interest, ns I lmvc a problem of my own to solve. 1 
have only lately come here, and have a plot about 
4 r, feet Ions hy «> feet to 12 feet wide, planted with 
various Ramblers, Carmine Pillar. Psyche, etc., In 
all about thirty. None of them are more than 4 feet, 
apart, and some ns little as 2 feet 0 inches. 1 under¬ 
stand the ground was well trenched and manured two 
years since, when they were put in, and nothing has 
been done to them since. At present they are a 
tangled mass of growth, all very healthy and strong, 
some of them having upwards of twenty shoots to 
one plant, many or the shoots being 15 feet long. 
There is absolutely nothing to train any of them to. 
It seems to me they have been planted altogether too 
close, hut 1 am loth to disturb any, as. although the 
garden Is fairly large, still there is plenty of other 
Roses about, and I do not want ground that is re- 
outred for other things to he taken up by them I 
thought of putting them upon Hop-poles, hut, then, 


thirty -sets of Hop-poles in so small a space would 
look ridiculous. Can you suggest the best way of 
dealing with them, as I feel sure that leaving them 
alone for another year will mean a hopeless tangle?— 
W. D. 

[We agree with you that to set up a num¬ 
ber of Hop-poles so closely as the plants are 
together would look ridiculous ; but you 
could very well have a few poles--say, about 
8 feet apart—and a tripod between each pair 
of poles. This would vary the appearance. 
Then, in one or two instances, you could 
arrange two poles at a distance* of about 
4 feet apart, with a cross beam. Upon these 
various poles and tripods train up such of 
the plants as seem most suitable, and then 
either discard some of the bushes that are 
too close together or allow them to grow as 
free bushes. You can get over the difficulty 
of the tangled mass of growth by severely re¬ 
ducing the number of growths in some of 
the bushes. If they were reduced to two or 
three growths, you would still obtain blos¬ 
som from those retained, provided these were 
left to their full length, and that such shoots 
are not more than two years of age. One 
or two of the most procumbent bushes could 
be utilised to carpet the ground around the 
pillars, the shoots being pegged down accord¬ 
ingly, and those shoots not wanted cut away.] 

Roses potted In November, pruning —I want 
to know l ow to prune Roses that I intend growing in 
the greenhouse. 1 bought-good dwarfs, 18 inches to 
24 inches high, and potted them up at the end of 
November, afterwards standing them outside and 
covering the pots with leaves and a-shes to keep frost 
out. It is impossible to bloom them in the open in 
this locality.so I am trying them in the greenhouse. I 
am not particular when I bloom them (any month), 
so will not give them too much heat when I take 
them in at the end of March. How much of the 
green wood must I cut away? The following are the 
varieties 1 have:—Chas Lefebvre, Frau Karl Druschki, 
Gen. Jacqueminot, Hugh Dickson, Jules Margottin, 
Mrs. Jowitfc, Reynolds Hole. Caroline Teat-out, 
Florence Pemberton, Killarney, Mme. Abel Chatenay, 
Mrs. David McKee, Souvenir de President Carnot, 
W. A. Richardson, Mardchal Kiel, and Liberty.— 
HERMES, Manchester. 

[The Hybrid Perpetuals should be cut back 
to about 6 inches or 8 inches of their base, 
the most vigorous varieties having their 
growths pruned the least. The Hybrid Teas 
should be pruned to about 5 inches or 
6 inches from the base. W. A. Richardson 
and Marechal Niel may be retained to a 
length of about 2 feet, if their growths are 
really hard, otherwise cut back more 
severely. In pruning it should always be the 
aim to discard soft, pithy wood, cutting this 
back nearly to the base, and if you only have 
one good, ripe shoot per plant you will have 
better Roses than if you retained the soft, 
unripe wood.] 


ROOM AND WINDOW. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 


WlndOW-bOXe8.— Much may be done by 
nicely-furnished window-boxes towards mak¬ 
ing a house attractive. People who do not 
make a practice of utilising space on their 
window-sills in this way nevertheless admit- 
that the practice is a good one, as it gives a 
two-fold pleasure—to those who cultivate the 
plants and to the passer-by. We shall soon 
be thinking of propagating, and the window- 
box and its tenants should not be forgotten. 
For aspring display one may have the Tufted 
Pansies, which are a host in themselves, and 
captivate all who grow them by the variety 
and multitude of their blooms. Polyan¬ 
thuses and Primroses, for a few weeks at 
least, will give a bright display, whilst for 
the summer season one may bring into use 
such things as Verbenas. Petunias, Lan- 
tauas, ami that ever popular 1 railing plant. 
Campanula isophylla. Mention is scarcely 
necessary of the Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums, 
although it is singular how many are con¬ 
tent with the pink varieties when there are 
so many other equally deserving sorts.— 
Townsman. 


oliage for cutting. -Wherever cut flowers are 
lemand some foliage Is usually needed, ana, in 
i- of the coming summer, it is wise to make pro¬ 
in for this. Maiden-hair fronds are fragile-too 
die, indeed, to last more than a few hours some- 
es. but. a good substitute will be found m Aapara- 
plumosuB, which is light and elegant, and will 
[/good for days. Smilax, too. wherever trailing 
iiae is desired, cannot well be improved on, and 
Is especially serviceable where much greenery is 


-CHAMPAIGf 



February 8 , 1903 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


659 



OUTDOOR PLANT8. 


PERGOLA AT ST. ANN’S. 

This massive and well-covered pergola has an 
interesting feature, in that other plants than 
the climbers are allowed to come in within 
the pillared framework. Usually the edging 
of stone or other material finishes in a line 
with the pillars, but where there is room 
for it this way is a gain, because, while the 
pergola itself is covered bv a collection of 
climbing plants, a base of Fern or other 
handsome dwarf plants is a gain artistically. 
These must not be large enough to interfere 
with the freedom of the pathway. Here the 


half is planted with tall herbaceous plants, 
Eremun, etc., and near the walk are good 
I clumps of May-flowering Tulips. 

The pergola is made of Larch poles, which 
are each 8 inches in diameter, and stand 
9 feet apart. Each alternate arch is made 
of three upright poles nnd three cross poles 
projecting 1 foot on each side from the arch. 
On these projections are placed the parallel 
roof poles, which run the whole length. The 
single pole is crossed by a single pole, also 
projecting. On each arch is grown one ram¬ 
pant-growing plant, which covers the roof. 
Among Roses there are Euphrcsyne, Thalia, 
l Dorothy Perkins, Evergreen Gem, Crimson 
Rambler, Wiehuraiana alba, Mine. Isaac 
' Periere, Aimee Vibert, Alistcr Stella Grey, 


Pelargoniums, Fuchsias, etc., are stood 
along the path. There are pleasant seats set 
back in partial shade. 

A. Campbell. 


Pergola in the gardens at St. Ann's, Cion tar f. 


pathway is made of old, worn stones .set at 
“random,” the most convenient of all 
things for the purpose, as they give a clean 
walk in all weathers, and the breaks in the 
stone allow of small plants growing here 
and there. We have rarely seen a pergola so 
well covered as this with all sorts of varied 
life—Clematis to Climbing Tea Rose, anti 
every good thing in climbing plants. 

-The pergola stands about feet higher 

than the garden walk, which runs parallel 
with it, and is separated by a border 11 feet 
wide. In this border stand old fruit-trees, 
20 feet apart, through whose branches are 
trained climbing Roses, Clematis of sorts, 
Loniceras, etc. Half of this border is filled 
with a good collection ol 'German Irkes and 
clumps of. Galtonia /andia?Nas. 


i Bouquet d’Or, and others. Then, on the 
three pole-arches arc planted Clematises of 
- sorts, Ceanothus Gloire de Versailles, Loni- 
! cera Halli. and L. etrusca, etc. ; also such 
: Roses as Fellenberg. Queen Mai). Laurette 
Messimy, Mine. Alfred Carriere, Gruss an 
: Teplitz, Mrs. J. Laing. also Passiflora 
! coerulea and P. Constance Elliott. 

I The centre path, which is 9 feet wide, is 
paved with broken sandstone flags. On the 
sides of this path an edging of broken rock is 
' placed, between which are planted trailing 
' alpine plants, and behind are pockets, in 
j which are grown choice Narcissi, Seillas, 
Grape Hyacinths, Dog’s-tooth Violets, Tril- 
liums, Broditeas, Iris reticulata, I. persica, 
I I. alata, etc. In summer ornamental pots, 
' filled with Lilinms of sorts, sweet-scented 


SELECT ANNUALS FOR HERBACEOUS 
BORDERS. 

In the arrangement of herbaceous borders, 
some gardeners leave vacant places at irregu¬ 
lar intervals in w’hich to plant or sow, as the 
case may be, some of the hardy and semi¬ 
hardy annuals. The system answers well if 
care is taken to select such subjects for the 
purpose as will harmonise w’ith the her¬ 
baceous plants, both in regard to flowers and 
foliage, and to avoid using such as too nearly 
approach the ordinary bed¬ 
ding-out plants. Some few 
years ago I saw a border 
planted on this principle 
that was worth making a 
special journey to see. The 
border being at its best at 
the time of my visit, there 
w'ss a glorious show of 
flowers, the Godetias, 
Esclischoltzias, and vari¬ 
ous other annuals vieing 
with the herbaceous 
Phloxes, double Sun¬ 
flowers, etc. The whole 
formed a fine object-les- 
6 on, presenting a beautiful 
floral picture. This is also 
a much better method of 
filling vacancies in an ordi¬ 
nary way in hardy plant 
borders, for, personally 
speaking, I do not care to 
see bedding plants, such as 
Pelargoniums and the like, 
employed for this purpose, 
as they always appear to 
me to be so entirely out of 
place. 

As the time is at hand 
for ordering flower and 
other seeds, subjoined is a 
list of a few choice sub¬ 
jects which I have found 
to answer remarkably well 
for the abovenamed pur¬ 
pose, and which may be 
useful to those seeking in¬ 
formation on this particu¬ 
lar subject. No attempt 
ha6 been made to group 
them in their colours, but 
they are simply taken in 
alphabetical ' order. The 
first to be named is Alon- 
soa Warseewiczii, which 
grows to a height of 
18 inches, and, being half- 
hardy, should be sown 
early in March and raised 
in slight warmth. The 
flowers are bright scarlet, 
and the habit of the plant 
graceful and most useful 
for grouping. The Antir¬ 
rhinums are too well know n 
to need any description, 
nnd these can be treated 
as annuals if the seed is 
sown early. Two extra fine 
varieties are Coral Red and 
Carmine Pink. The Dinn- 
thuses are universal fa¬ 
vourites, and flower well 
the first season if treated as annuals. Aster 
sinensis, particularly the large - flowered 
type, is very free-flowering, forming quite 
small bushes in good soil, and grand for 
autumn display. The seed of this may be 
sown in a frame the second or third week in 
May, pricking out the plants in the per¬ 
manent quarters when large enough. The 
Tassel-flow’er (Cacalia coccinea) has orange- 
scarlet flowers, and does well sowm where 
to bloom in early April. It reaches a 
height of 18 inches. Bartonia aurea is a 
bright yellow-flowered plant, and the Cape 
Marigold or Calendula is a very old favourite 
and quite hardy, so can be sown direct in 
the border. Orange King and Yellow Queen 
are two excellent varieties. Of the Cen- 
taurens or Knapweed, C. Cynnus or the Corn- 









660 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


February 8, 1908 


flower must not be omitted, on account of 
its pretty, deep-blue flowers. Then thero are 
the Sweet Sultans, which are members of the 
same family. These are prized as much for 
the perfume emitted by the flowers as for 
their form and colours. The annual 
Chrysanthemums of the segetum type or Corn 
Marigold are useful for sowing towards the 
middle of the border, and flower continuously 
for weeks. Of Chrysanthemum carinatum, 
Morning Star and Evening Star are two fine 
varieties, admirably adapted for grouping. 
These are best sown where to flower, and 
grow about 2 feet in height. The Clarkias 
are well-known hardy annuals, and deserve a 
prominent position, particularly the varieties 
Double Salmon and Brilliant Rose. Collin- 
sia bicolor is a graceful free-flowering plant, 
and hardy. Next come Convolvulus minor, 
which has deep blue flowers, and grows about 
1 foot high. Both it and its variety, which 
has sky-blue flowers, are great acquisitions. 
Coreopsis or C&lliopsis, of which tinctoria and 
Drummondii are universal favourites, and 
flowering, as the plants do, for months, 
should always be included. They also are 
hardy, and such can be sown where required 
to flower. Eschscholtzias can be sown 
early in April in the border. Mandarin, 
Rose Cardinal, and Ruby King can be recom¬ 
mended. Gaura Lindheimeri, though strictly 
speaking a perennial, is best treated as an 
annual. The seed should be sown in Feb¬ 
ruary, when the plants will flower profusely 
the same season. It grows about 3 feet in 
height, and carries long spikes of white 
flowers, sometimes slightly flushed with rose. 
On the beauty of Godetias there is no need to 
dilate, for this is well known to all. The 
variety Double Rose should be plentifully 
grown, as it is a splendid border plant. The 
Hawkweed in variety forms pretty masses of 
colour, and the plants should be well thinned 
in a young state. The Larkspurs are another 
favourite flower, of which the scarlet or 
Stock-flowered variety is a gem for the pur¬ 
pose under consideration. The Tree-Mallow 
(Lavatera), particularly the variety named 
L. splendens rosea, is* a splendid back-row 
plant. This bears beautiful large, rose- 
coloured flowers. Linaria or Toad-Flax is 
very effective grown in clumps, Queen of 
Roses and Pearl White being two pretty 
varieties. Linum (Flax) grandiflorum 
rubrum must not be omitted, for its brilliant- 
coloured flowers are singularly effective. 
This should not be sown too early. The 
Neraophilas are charming hardy subjects for 
the edges of the border, N. insignis and its 
variety grandiflora being the best. Room 
should always be found for groups of the 
sweet-scented Tobacco-plant (Nieotiana 
affinis), and the new hybrid, N. Sander®. 
Good, bold groups of the Love-in-o-Mist 
(Nigella) should also be arranged for, not 
forgetting the new variety named after Miss 
Jekyll, which excels all others in colour. 
Iceland Poppies (Papaver nudicaule), planted 
in groups in the forefront of the borders, pro¬ 
duce flowers in great profusion. Sown early, 
the plants flower the same year. Phacelia 
campanularia is another lovely blue-flowered 
annual, that must not on any account be 
omitted from the list. Du not sow too early, 
and select a warm, sunny spot for it. Rud- 
beckia Golden Sunset is a charming annual 
variety of the Cone-flower, its yellow and 
brown flowers being very effective. This 
attains a height of 18 inches. The Scabious 
or Pincushion-flower is a well-known annual, 
and can be had in a variety of colours. It 
succeeds best when sown in slight warmth, 
so that good-sized plants may be had for put¬ 
ting out at the end of May. Another elegant 
free-flowering annual is Venus’ Navelwort 
(Omphalodos linifolia), the flowers of which 
arc small, pure white, and the foliage greyish- 
white in colour. This should be grown in 
good-sized clumps near the front of the bor¬ 
der. the middle or end of April being quite 
early enough to sow the seed. The last to 
be named is Viscaria cardinalis, which has 
crimson flowers, and is fine for massing in 
sunny open spots. Sown at the same time 
as the preceding, it will flower in July and 
August. _ _ A. W. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Top dressing hardy--plants — When 
given to .top-fires* nlmil/ annually, ho 
know \\|i<1!i.r I hi* shniifcltj {hjp ii ( 



autumn, or winter? With reference to herbaceous 
stuff, also alpines, which class should have rich 
manure? Should Primula Sieboldi be heavily manured 
when growth commences or in winter?—R ouge. 

[This term is usually applied to the winter 
or autumn dressing given to border and other 
plants that have been cut down after flower¬ 
ing. At other times, and when the work is 
necessary for the retention of moisture 
during the growing season of certain plants, 
the word ‘’mulching ” is that most frequently 
used. With reference to a large number of 
strong-growing herbaceous plants, a winter 
dressing of short manure is of much service 
in keeping the soil in good condition, the 
inanurial properties being carried into the 
soil and about the roots of the plants at, a 
time when there is much root activity below 
ground. Primula Sieboldi, for example, may 
receive a top-dressing of manure each autumn 
with advantage, and, if the rhizomes are 
lifted out of the soil, these should be covered 
with soil and manure in equal parts. Manure 
cannot be applied to alpines in the same way, 
by reason of the above-ground tufts of leaves, 
and to such plants as the Saxifraga you men¬ 
tion is not only not required, but may be 
harmful. For such as these, a richly- 
manured soil is not a necessity, and periodi¬ 
cal transplantng with division is best. The 
Primula and Dielytra may each receive an 
annual dressing of manure, also the Au- 
brieties. For such as these, with evergreen 
tufts, the manure must be finely broken 
down, and placed around, not upon, the 
tufts of leaves.] 

Seeds in penny packets.— What a great 
saving and convenience was the introduction 
of penny packets of garden seeds! A few r 
years ago one had to give from threepence to 
sixpence per packet, and often got three or 
four times more 6eeds than were required. 
Whether one has a large or small garden, 
penny packets are much more convenient, 
and one can have greater variety. Penny 
packets apply to flower-seeds even more than 
to vegetables. It is astonishing what a wide 
range of beautiful blooms can be obtained 
from a shilling’s worth of penny packets. 
Those who have not tried the penny packets 
should this season give them a trial. It is 
quite surprising in many kinds of seeds how 
far a penny packet will go.—II. C. Mullins. 

The Winter Heliotrope (Petasites frag 
rans).—This plant, which belongs to the 
Coltsfoots, and whose botanical name is 
Petasites fragrans, is, like the rest of its 
family, a terrible encroacher if it once be¬ 
comes established in a garden. It is almost 
impossible to eradicate it if it once gets 
firmly fixed in the soil, and where the roots 
have twice been dug out to a depth of 3 feet 
it is still flourishing. It should, therefore, 
only be planted in (spots from which it has 
no possibility of escape, and from which it 
has no means of entering the garden proper, 
for, though it is a good servant, it is a bad 
master. I have it growing in an ideal spot, 
from which there is no possible means of es- 
cajie. BetAveen the road and the high bank 
formed by the lower end of the garden is n 
deep depression, about 15 feet across. This 
has, apparently, for generations been the re¬ 
ceptacle for all manner of rubbish, broken 
, crockery and bottles, tiles, slates, bricks, 
and such like, to a depth of several feet. 
Over this about a foot of soil was spread, and 
roots of the Winter Heliotrope were planted, 
and from the colony, now firmly established, 
dozens of sweetly-scented flower-heads may 
be picked in the depth of winter, which, with 
their great, heart-shaped leaves, make a 
handsome ornament in the houso and per¬ 
fume the room with their fragrance. A dry 
bank, where nothing else will grow, might be 
profitably devoted to this plant. It is said 
to be a native of Italy, but has become per¬ 
fectly naturalised here. Its flowers differ 
from those of the common Coltsfoot in being 
borne in dense clusters, and ranging in colour 
from lavender to purple, whereas the yellow 
blossoms of the Coltsfoot (Tussilago Farfara) 
are borne singly, and are Daisy-like in form. 
— S. W. Fitzherbert. 

Spring-struck Geraniums. -Now that the 
days arc lengthening, and owners of gardens 
will be increasing their stock of plants for 
the coming season, as Pelargoniums play 
such a very important part in the scheme of 
decoration, every effort should bo made to 


increase the stock. Wherever a plant is get¬ 
ting uneven in growth, through the strongest 
shoots outgrowing the others, the best 
course is to take off the tops of the shoots 
and insert them as cuttings in small thumb 
pots, using very fine sandy soil- Give one 
good watering to settle the soil, then set 
them on a shelf near the glass in a warm- 
house, and be very sparing of water, until 
they have made roots, when they may be 
treated as the ordinary stock. They will be 
fit for transferring to 3-inch pots in March, 
and, with careful attention, will be quite fit 
for planting out in May ; or, if transferred 
to larger pots, will make fine plants for the 
conservatory. All the Ivy-leaved varieties 
are especially adapted for spring propaga¬ 
tion, as they are of rapid growth, and, un¬ 
less kept closely pinched, the autumn-struck 
plants get overgrown and straggling before 
the planting season comes round. —J. G., 
Go* port. 

Red-cup Moss. —Peziza eoecinea, the pretty 
scarlet fungus, known popularly as Red-cup 
Moss, is one of the loveliest of the common 
objects of the countryside, during a winter’s 
walk. It may now and again be found in the 
hedgerow, but never in quantity, for, growing 
as it does on rotten wood, it ie only where 
this occurs in abundance that it is at all 
common. The most likely spot to find it is 
in an old wood or spinney, where the ground 
is moist. In one place, close to the road, 
where an old plantation is never touched 
from year to year, it is to be found annually 
in the winter-time in great numbers on the 
damp ground. Few are, perhaps, aware 
what a delightful and lasting indoor decora¬ 
tion this Red-cup Mose will provide if it lie 
only artistically arranged. The scarlet fungi 
should be tenderly taken up, each with the 
little piece of wood to which it is attached 
adhering to it, and carefully carried home in 
a basket. A shallow dish or china saucer 
should be obtained and partially filled with 
water. Sufficient fresh Moss should be placed 
in the saucer to fill it, this being of a rough 
and not close-growing description; the so- 
called Fern Moss, a Hypnum, being the 
prettiest, if it can be procured. A couple of 
dozen fungi, if the saucer is large enough, 
these ranging in size from half-an-ineh to 
2 inches across, will afford a charming and 
uncommon decoration for the living-room 
during the depth of the winter, and will re¬ 
tain their colour and freshness for a month 
or more.— S. W. Fitzherbert. 

Petunias.— Petunias are very serviceable 
for amateurs, and make a grand show either 
in the flower garden or in the greenhouse. 
Who is there who does not remember what 
a place the single Petunias fill in a garden 
where the soil is rather shallow, especially 
on a dry border? 1 have such a border, but 
where these old favourite things are planted 
I can always count on a show, and those 
who have not made up their mind what to 
plant in the coming summer should set aside 
a part of their borders for them. Petunias 
are very pretty os basket plants, and, pro¬ 
vided the centre shoot is pinched out, the 
growths will cover the sides of the basket 
with flowers and foliage. If you omit to 
stop them in this way, you may get them to 
bloom a little earlier, but before the season 
is half over you will find that the steins near 
the base will be bare, and, consequently, 
will not add to the beauty of the basket. 
As pot plants, double Petunias have claims 
upon us, and cuttings may be struck almost 
at any time, and they soon root if given a 
little bottom heat. These double forms 
make nice subjects for a window-box, and. 
in a sunny window, flower almost as well as 
those in the greenhouse. One point that 
amateurs often overlook until too late, and 
I that is affording the shoots support early 
enough. They are very brittle, and unless 
i tied up to a neat stake their own weight is 
frequently too much, and they break off. 
Given ordinary greenhouse treatment, Pe¬ 
tunias make a good display for many months 
in the year, and one is justified in character¬ 
ising them as good all round plants.— 
WOODB ASTWICK. 

Renovating lawn near the sea —Would any of 
your readers kindly recommend the best Urass-sced 
for sowing on a lawn close tb the sea? The lawn was 
made four -vears ago, and sown with good seed, but 
the «;ra>s will not grow-it sHuns allected hy the «a!t 
air. WTiiiLwa 1 '!!! he thobest trcaliiHuT?-'!:vsr i*»'-r. 

ORE - \JA-CHAMPA GN 



February 8, 1903 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED, 


661 




HARDY NEW ZEALAND FLAXES. 

This littlo sketch is a scene in the inex- ' 
haustible Daisy Hill Nursery, at Newry, 
where the New Zealand Flax accompanies 
Japanese Iris and other graceful plants of 
the water and waterside. In the south of 


whose capsules have split open, disclosing the 
brilliant orange berries within. In such a 


CEREUS (ECHINOPSIS) MULTIPLEX. 


wood, where the clumps stand thickly, the 1 1 FIND [t 18 nlne y ears »g° that 1 fir8t tried to 

ground beneath the leafless branches will grow the Echinopsis section of Cereus out-of- 

gleam brightly with the berries exposed by doors. My first specimen was then given me 
the thousands of expanded seed-pods. There by one. of our night-school boys, who had 
is no more effective indoor decoration for the grown it in a cottage window. I had grown 
winter months than the berry- Opuntias satisfactorily for somo years on a 
bearing stems of the Gladwin ' sloping southern bank of the rock-garden, 
arranged with dried Grasses, a keeping off the excessive wet of winter by 
decoration that will last until placing some lights from a dismantled vinery 
the spring brings fresh flowers I overhead. I thought that any plant that could 
again to take its place. The winter safely close to the glass of a cottage 
seed-pods may generally be window ought to have a good chance of sur- 
purchased in" the streets of v . lvln S *“ m l Cactus bank, and begged cut- 
most towns in the winter, tings and offsets from many who thus grew 
There is a variegated form of , Caetl - Cereus flagelliformis thus obtained 
the Gladwin that is an attrac- has grown well, but has not yet flowered; a 
live plant, and is far better than Phyllocactus and Lpiphyllum from a Norfolk 
most variegated things, which 0otta S c window were both killed the first win- 
are overdone in eardens ter; hut,'so far, I have had great success 

S W Fitzherbert. with all the Echinopsis I have tried. I have 

' _ * purchased a few fresh species and varieties 

rpv • each season since the experiment of 1899, 
Crocus Imperati. — I hie iuld now have twenty-nine different named 
lovely Crocus has now liecn in | f orm3 pi an tcd out, besides various seedlings 
bloom for four weeks, and is and f( J rmg obtained without names. <5f 
still ill the zenith of its beauty. . eoursCi it ; 3 only , air to reme mber that we 
A good colony should always kave IloL 1 , ad verv severe winters during this 
he planted where the flowers period and sim f lar weat her to that expe- 

may catch the eye in the dark r i encG< j j n the early months of 1895 might 

days of the year, ns they will kill m ot these . 

charm for fully six weeks. A Th J duce Ilumer ou S offsets when 

ormin nf Hirup < irvzpn nr py- ... .. 


A hardy New Zealand Flax in Mr. Smith's nursery at : 


days of the year, as they will ' kiu m o( tlleS e. 

charm for fully six weeks. A x , •’ produce Ilumerous of f 5et8 wh en 
group of three dozen or so ex- lant / d 0 [ ut and these are best removed, or 
qms.te blossoms, huff, str.ped £ he nt plantg „ iu not flower and ’ the 
with purple on the outer babe £ lant * d round them form attractive 
petals and showing the tender ** xhe flowers are very Iarge compared 

lavender-mame within, in w j tb the round, squat stems which compose 
their half-opened cups, is a the plaut xhey ara raosHy pure white or 


sight to cheer the heart in the j e pjbut a few are deep red. The plant 

T-Iitiiarv (whrn with 1 , 


Ireland and of England, the plant is com- I 
mon enough, and will grow anywhere; but j 
it is interesting to see it in a northern dis- | 
trict, and I find that a certain form of it is 
quite hardy about London, and not only 
so, but flowers vigorously. This, I think, is 
the mountain form of New Zealand Flax, 
which was sent me by the late Mr. Burbidge 
from Dublin, and is, I believe, tlie form cul¬ 
tivated at Powerscourt. It is a precious 
addition to our garden flora in cool districts, 
say, in the country round London, where we 
thought before it could not be grown. It 
gives, perhaps, the most distinct effect of any 
hardy plant. Mr. Smith sends us the follow¬ 
ing notes as to the variety of New Zealand 
Flax which is here figured : — 

The handsome and generally quite hardy 
New Zealand Flax wc grow here is un¬ 
doubtedly the green or typical form of Plior- 
mium Veitchi, which, I should say, is a 
mountain plant. At any rate, from its first 
introduction, it always endured the winters 
that cut Phormium tenax to the ground. I 
understand that it was originally obtained at 
Powerscourt by sowing seeds of the varie- i 
gated P. Veitchi, the resulting crop being 
either albinas or self green plants, and it i 
has also been obtained here in the same way. 
Some of the forni6 have a distinct blue tint, 
this and their quite erect habit making them 
particularly handsome. The dwarf form 
grown under the name of P. Cooki is here as 
hardy as above, the features being the com¬ 
pact habit, leaves not more than 3 feet long, | 
growing into a close tuft, flowering annually, 
and so suitable for gardens of limited areas. 
It is also a splendid tub plant. 

R. 

THE GLADWIN. 

Irises are generally grown for the beauty of 
their flowers, hut the blossoms of the Glad¬ 
win (Iris foetidissima), with their dull purple 
tint, possess but little attractiveness. The 
yellow Water Flag (Iris pseudo-acorus), ! 
which, with the Gladwin, represents the 
race in Britain, is very lovely when blooming ! 
in hundreds in the damp water meadows in I 
the early summer ; but it is not until the win¬ 
ter is on ns that the Gladwin manifests its 
charms. It will grow in the roughest ground, 
and may often be met with in hundreds in 
steep, open woods where, here and there, the 
rocks crop out from the surface. There in 
the dark days of the year it makes a pretty I 
picture, the plants spreading out into dense | 
tufts, with arching leaves of dark green, and 1 
surmounting the leaves tttr^li ied flowcr»tems, 1 

Digitized by CjOOQlC 


dark January days, when, with 
the exception of the Winter Jasmine, the 
Christmaa Rose, the Algerian Iris, and the 


illustrated, I believe, is C. multiplex, which 
is well figured at t. 3,789 of the “Botanical 
Magazine.” It is a very beautiful species, in 


Winter Heliotrope, there is scarcely a j colour just the delicate shell-pink of the inner 
flower of the open air to greet us. surface of a petal of a La France Rose. The 
S. V . I’itzherbert. flowers open a few hours before sunset, and 

Hardy fine-foliaged plants.— In this lo- remain open over the following day, but 
cality, where we lately had several frosts of close and collapse on the morning of the 
from 15 degs. to 20 degs., we have good j second day, thus being open during two 
specimens of Chamrorope Fortunei, also 1 nights. I expect, in their native country 
Aralia Sieboldi in splendid bushes, while (said to be Brazil), the anthers ripen on tho 
Phormium tenax, or New Zealand Flax, first, and the stigma the second, evening, to 
grow splendidly in fully exposed spots. Some , ensure cross fertilisation by some large moth 
years ago I raised a*lot of seedlings from | visitor. E. Augustus Bowles. 

seed eent direct from New Zealand, and __ 

kept them in pots, under the impression that 

frost would kill them, but eventually I Carden walls In summer.— Why should 


ad several frosts of close and collapse on the morning of the 
gs., we have good second day, thus being open during two 
jxs Fortunei, also nights. I expect, in their native country 


E. Augustus Bowles. 


frost would kill them, but eventually I Carden walls In summer.- Why should 
planted some out, and now they arc fine people who live in and near to large towns 

clumps several feet through, with sword-like be confronted on almost every hand with bare 

leaves, looking the picture of health after a nd uninteresting walls in summer, when by 

the late frost, that froze the soil so hard a little thought walls and fences may be 

around them that even a pick-axe would not made bright and interesting? It matters 
enter it.- James Groom, Gosport. t little if the fences are nothing more than 

Alstrcemerias. -How very few grow rows of palings, these same rows may be 

AlktrfPmprins nr Pnrn- _ 

vian Lilies, as they 
are called, yet their 
culture, when once 
understood, is by no 
means difficult. It 
has, however, been ad¬ 
mitted that many fail 
with them, because, in¬ 
stead of planting them 
in a deep, rich soil, 
they give them a place 
where it is shallow, 
and so success doevS not 
follow. The best place 
of all for Alstroemerias 
is a warm border—one 
under a wall, if pos¬ 
sible—a soil that is 
deep and light, made 
up of leaf-mould and 
loam and old, rotted 
manure. The roots 
penetrate a long way, 

when the roots are 

piantcd in autumn, to CereuB multiplex At Myddelton House, Waltham Cross, 

bury the tubers at 
least 9 inches. This is 

why many fail with them—because they do 1 made to look attractive by covering them 
not understand they require deep planting, j with flowering and fine-leaved creepers, and 
Alstrcemerias give us beautiful Lily-like bios- although some of 11 s, perhaps, forgot last 
60 ms, which are most effective when cut and autumn, when it was time to shift hardy 
arranged in vases, and any extra trouble their plants, to get some, the deficiency may b« 
culture necessitates is fully compensated made good nowfj WOJ weather admit* 

when thev bloom.— V. D. * , they may hcjflanied iwf - ToWNSfLVN, 


Cereus multiplex At Myddelton House, Waltham Cross. 


if 


UCHAM 





663 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


February 8, 1908 


FRUIT. 

AUTUMN-FRUITING RASPBERRIES. 
The late or autumn-fruiting varieties of the 
Raspberry are so greatly esteemed in many 
establishments that effort has to be made to 
keep up a supply until the canes ceaoe to 
yield fruit, or, as is more often the case, 
until frost destroys both the blossoms and 
fruit. The esteem in which they are thus 
held is fully justified by the fact that they 
serve to considerably prolong the season in 
which this much-appreciated fruit can be 
had, and it is strange that their cultivation 
has not long ago become further extended. 
Their value is still further enhanced when 
Red Currants for a late autumn supply are 
grown, both kinds of fruit then being in fre¬ 
quent demand. 

Regarding the question of cultivation, this 
presents no difficulties, for anyone who hao a 
soil capable of growing the summer-fruiting 
Raspberry can succeed with the autumn- 
fruiting kinds. Like the eummer-fruiting 
kinds, the autumn-bearing sorts delight in 
a deeply-stirred and thoroughly-manured 
soil, and if planted under these conditions, 
the canes will yield profitable crops of fruit 
for many years afterwards, provided, of 
course, that they are annually mulched and 
watered with diluted liquid-manure. Th° 
canes are beet trained to a trellis 4 feel 
6 inches to 5 feet in height, and if the demand 
is such that several rows are required, the 
best plan then is to devote a portion or 
a whole plot of ground to them. In this case 
the rows should stand 5 feet distant from 
each other. Another and an excellent 
method is to plant them so that they run 
parallel with a footpath, a row' on either side, 
and distant some 3 feet from the edge of the 
path. Growm in this manner, they are very 
conveniently situated for attending to, not 
only from a cultural point of view, but in 
netting to secure the fruit from bird attacks 
and in the gathering of the same. So far it 
will be seen that there is little or no differ¬ 
ence in the cultivation of the autumn-fruiting 
Raspberry and that of the summer kinds, but 
the next point that has to be mentioned, 
w'hich ie that of the time to prune or cut 
down the canes, shows rather a wide diverg¬ 
ence, inasmuch as, while the canes of the 
summer-fruiters are only thinned out, the 
strongest and best being retained and tipped, 
the autumn-bearing kinds have to be cut 
down close to the ground about the end of 
January or early in February. A crop of 
new canes ia then produced in due course, 
which have to be thinned out to about 
<» inches apart, selecting, as a matter of 
course, the strongest, and cutting the resi¬ 
due clean out. It is these new canes which 
produce the autumnal crops of fruit, and 
theee self-same varieties, if grown under 
the same conditions as accorded the sum¬ 
mer-fruiting sorts, would fruit at the same 
time as they do. Again, the summer kinds 
would, if cut down in the spring, produce 
a crop of fruit in autumn, but the yield in 
this case does not compare, weight for 
weight, with that obtained from the varieties 
grown specially for autumn fruiting. Of 
these the best are October Red, October Yel 
low, and Belle de Fontenay. The last is a 
very fine fruit, but in a season like the last 
one, for instance, it is apt to be acid and only 
suited for cooking. The other two sorts, 
though smaller, arc very sweet, and excellent 
for the dessert. 

Although the season is advancing, there is 
yet time for those w'ho, after perusing the 
above, may be anxious to take up their culti¬ 
vation to get a row or so of stools planted; 
but they should not attempt doing so until the 
site has been trenched and heavily manured. 
This latter matter must then have first con¬ 
sideration, and, if carried out at once, the 
stools or young canes can be planted eurlv 
in March. If the canes are strong, and 
planting is properly done at the time men 
tioned. following this up by cutting them off 
close to the ground a few days afterwards, 
they will make good growths the first season. 
Then, if the roots are watered whenever the 
condition of the weather demands it, so that 
the canes can become strong and make an 
abundance of roots, u small crop of fruit 
may. if desired, h** ha d in autumn. A. W, 

Digitized by GO -glC 


RED AND WHITE CURRANTS AS 
CORDONS. 

The cultivation of Rod and White Currants 
as cordon-trained trees is by no means new, 
and the method is principally confined to pri¬ 
vate gardens, where it is adopted to afford a 
supply of these fruits during the autumn 
months, and to form a succession to that 
yielded by bushes grown in the open. Grown 
in this manner, their culture is extremely 
simple, the trees invariably proving very pro¬ 
lific, because the blossoms generally escape 
injury unless spring frosts should prove un¬ 
usually severe, and the fruit will keep for n 
long time without deterioration, provided it 
is securely netted against bird attacks. Both 
the red and white Currants arc useful in a 
variety of ways, the kitchen department gene¬ 
rally absorbing the greater portion of the 
crop of red ones, especially if a point is made, 
as it should be, of growing a good break or 
several rows of trellis-trained autumnal-fruit¬ 
ing Raspberries. The white ones, particu¬ 
larly the variety named Transparent, are 
much appreciated as dessert. The best posi¬ 
tion for these cordon-trained Currants is 
against a wall facing north, or a fence having 
the same aspect would answer equally as well. 
Unless the soil is very poor or very heavy, 
digging it two spits deep and to a width of 
3 teet, working in at the same time a liberal 
quantity of well-rotted manure, suffices for 
the root requirements. The addition of road- 
sidings or similar material to the manure 
will enrich a poor soil, while lime rubbish 
and burnt soil will tend to render a heavy 
soil less cold and adhesive. Give trees 
having double and triple stems the preference 
for this purpose, and these can be purchased 
at any nursery where fruit-tree growing is 
made a specialty. Of varieties. Raby Castle 
is the best red, w hile White Dutch and Trans¬ 
parent are two excellent white sorts. 

A. W. 


REPLANTING A VINE. 

I have erected a greenhouse, and a friend pave me 
a Vine, about 12 feet long, with two branches. It 
was grown outride her greenhouse and brought in 
just at the base to the house. 1 dug it up as care¬ 
fully us 1 could, and placed in a barrel for my 
house. Am 1 to cut back the shoots, and, if so, how 
far? Also, do’you think it will grow? I think it is 
seven or eight years old. Please give me as full 
information as you can.—E. HiGGiNSON. 

[The Vine in question w'ill live with its 
roots confined in a barrel filled with soil, if 
attended to in the way of watering, etc. ; but 
as to reaping any good results in the shape of 
a crop of Grapes, we can only say you will 
meet with nothing but disappointment. The 
best course for you to pursue if you desire to 
retain it is to make up a border of proper 
constituents, and plant the Vine in this. 
Then, if you abstain from cropping it, and 
give strict attention in supplying the roots 
with water as often as it is required, and in 
encouraging the Vine to make as much 
growth as can be trained out on the trellis 
conveniently and without crowding, you 
should get it nicely established this season. 
The next year you could allow it to bear a 
light crop, and the year following a full one. 
The border at the outset need be only 1 yard 
wide and 11 yards long, ns it can be added to 
as required in the future. In your case the 
border would be best situated outside the 
greenhouse, preferably against the front wall 
and facing south, or, at any rate, so that it 
experiences all the sunshine obtainable. The 
border, including the drainage, should he 
3 feet in depth, and if your locality i« at all 
low-lving or damp, arrange for the top of 
the border to stand at the least 1 foot above 
the surrounding level. The Vine, when 
planted, should have its roots spread out 
horizontally and as widely apart as possible, 
placing the stronger ones about a foot below- 
the surface, and the smaller ami more fibrous 
ones from 5 inches to 6 inches under the sur¬ 
face. Cover them carefully with a little fine 
rich soil, to encourage a rapid emission of 
new rootlets, and to settle it firmly about 
them, apply tepid water with a coarse-rosed 
water-can. After this has drained away, 
the soil placed on one side when opening out 
the hole to receive the roots can be returned 
and made firm by treading, and the surfaco 
mulched with 2 inches of horsc-droppings 
afterwards. 

The border should consist of good turfy 


loam chopped up rather roughly, with some 
old plaster, a little burnt soil or wood ashe« 
added if inclined to be heavy, and for the 
bulk of soil you will require A cwt. each of 
i-inch bones and bone meal, or ^ cwt. Vine- 
manure. If this quantity of loam is diffi¬ 
cult to obtain, you may employ good garden 
soil, say, in the proportion of one-half, but 
endeavour to have the remaining half of 
good loam. The drainage material should be 
in two grades, coarse at the bottom and fine 
on the top, 9 inches in depth, and be covered 
with turves, Grass side downwards, or Oat- 
straw. By this you will see that the actual 
depth of the border— i.c., soil alone—should 
be 2 feet 3 inches or thereabouts. Unless the 
subsoil is very cold and consisting of clay, or 
should there be a tendency for water to 
accumulate when the excavation for the bor¬ 
der has been made, the 9 inches of drainage 
mentioned will suffice; but in the two last- 
named contingencies the base would be best 
concreted, and a drain constructed to carry 
the water away. The stem of the Vine must 
be passed through a hole cut in the brickwork 
in the front of the house, at the exact point- 
where you wish to train it, and on a level 
with the surface of the border, prior to plant¬ 
ing being done. With regard to pruning, the 
Vine, being from seven to eight years old, the 
rods should be furnished with spurs; conse¬ 
quently all that is required is to prune or 
cut back at once the snoots (termed laterals) 
on these to two buds. Tie the rods to the 
trellis from 3 feet to 4 feet distant from each 
other, and this will allow for the training out 
of the laterals being done without overcrowd¬ 
ing when the Vine puts forth growth. As 
the season is advancing, you should, provided 
you adopt our recommendations, have the 
work put in hand without delay, so that the 
Vine may be planted before the buds com¬ 
mence swelling.] 


LATE PEARS. 

At a meeting of the Royal Horticultural 
Society on Junuary 14th, there came before 
the Fruit Committee, from u private gar¬ 
dener, a collection of some seven or eight 
varieties of late Pears. It wa*s certainly an 
early date to show the keeping qualities of 
Pears presumed to keep well into March. 
With the exception of Bergamotte d’Esperen, 
most certainly the best of the batch, both 
in size and in quality, the rest were rather 
second-rate samples. It was obvious that 
the fruits had been too early gathered, and 
that culture had been poor, as, with the 
exception of the one named, none showed 
fair development. Whenever really first- 
class late Pears have been placed before the 
committee, it has ‘invariably been show-n 
that not only were the fruits allowed to 
hang to the latest possible period, but that 
the trees were well fed with manure-mulch¬ 
ings and soakings of liquid-manure. Where 
such efforts arc not made to obtain in the 
fruits their finest development, they are very 
much as were most, of the fruits put before the 
Fruit Committee, rather poor and flavourless. 
Amongst the late varieties sent were Easter 
Beurre, Doyenne d’Alewjon, Olivier dcs 
Serres, No Plus Meuris, and Josephine des 
Malincs, all very good late varieties, but cer¬ 
tainly needing greater cultural justice done 
to them than was evidenced in this case. 
Those who saw the recently certificated 
Beurre de Nagliin, the fruits large, hand¬ 
some, and having clear yellow skins, could 
have wished that it had been a later variety, 
as the fruits, when shown, were at their best 
early in January. A very fine midsummer 
Pear is Marie Benoist, the flesh smooth and 
pleasant, though rather lacking flavour, but 
it is at its best by the middle or January. 
Le Lectier is another fine January Pear, 
whilst the new Santa Claus is, as its name 
implies, ready at Christmas. Certainly, up 
to January" there are several fine, good 
Pears, but later we are dependent on others, 
less in size and quality, needing high culture 
to obtain fruits of the best quality. A. D. 


“The English Flower Garden and Home 
Grounds • - .Veto Edition, 10th, revved, with, desenp. 
lion* of all the lent plant*, trees. and shrub* th r 
culture and arrangement, illustrated oh wood. CL.lh, 
medium Seo, 16 *.; post free, 16s. Sd. 

L/WiWftSlTY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 





February 8, 1908 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


663 



posed is just as variable. In the Red Birch 
(Betula nigra) the bark is of a reddish-brown 
colour, and bangs in loose strips. The Moose 
Wood or Striped Maple (Acer pennsylvani- 
cum) is another striking tree, the bark being 
striped with white, while many of the Wil¬ 
lows are among the brightest of all shrubs or 
trees, for they may well be classed under 
both heads. The forms of the White Willow 
(Salix alba), grouped under the varietal name 
of S. vitellina, are all beautiful shrubs, the 
bark varying in colour from yellow to a 
bright glowing red. The Daphne-like Wil¬ 
low (Salix daphnoides), the bark of whose 
young shoots is covered with a kind of 
glaucous bloom, is another meritorious 
species. As above stated, while these Wil¬ 
lows will, under favourable conditions, 
attain tree-like dimensions, they may be 
readily kept in shrub form. This is done bv 
cutting them down nearly to the ground 
every spring, thus encouraging them to push 
up young, strong shoots. The bark on tnese 
cut-down plants is of a brighter colour than 
that on older plants. Not only Willows, but 
many other shrubs are amenable to this 
annual cutting down, particularly Lcyces- 
teria formosa, and the many members of the 
Dogwood family. Of these Cornus alba in 
its several forms stands out as the best, 
the variety sibirica being very highly 
coloured, while a tone of yellow is imparted 
by the little-known variety, C. etolonifera 
var. flaviramea. 

After the Birches the Brambles have al¬ 
most a monopoly of white-barked subjects, 
for several different species stand out 
markedly in this respect. Perhaps the best of 
all is the Himalayan Itubus bitlorus, whose 
stems present the appearance of having boon 
whitewashed. A clump or mass of this 
planted in good soil will reach a height of 
10 feet or thereabouts. When the new shoots 
begin to grow, the old stems should all be 
cut away, as in this manner only is a vivid 
whiteness ensured. A mass of this Bramble, 
when at its best, has a weird and ghost-like 
effect in the twilight or on a moonlight night. 
The warm, reddish-brown of the Himalayan 
Berberis virescens is so attractive os to make 
one surprised that it still remains difficult to 
get from nurseries. This must not be cut 
down, for it is extremely effective as a large 
bush. Of plants with bright green 6tems be¬ 
side the Brooms the best are Kerria japonica 
and Leycesteria formosa, whose annual 
shoots are, perhaps, the brightest of all. 

As above stated, the fruits of many are 
very beautiful, but most of them are eaten 
by birds, should tho weather prove severe. 
Some of the Thorns and Cotoneasters are 
among the most lasting, perhaps the best of 
all being Cotoneaster rotundifolia, whose 
bright red berries will often remain on for 
months. Lastly, there are those that flower 
during the winter, such as the various forms 
of Asiatic Witch Hazels, Daphne Mezercum, 
Winter Jasmine, Cornelian Cherry (Cornus 
Mas), and the Winter Sweet (Chimonanthus 
fragrans). X. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 


Whether on arch, trellis, wall, or fence, it 
is never out of place at this season of the 
year, for colour in the dark days is longed 
for by all, and anything that gives it us 
should be highly treasured. A beautiful 
effect is gained where this Jasmine is used 
to veil a low cliff-face with its pendent 
growths. Planted above such a spot, it 
hangs naturally and gracefully over it, reach¬ 
ing almost to the ground, with every shoot 
flower-laden to its very tip, the plant appear¬ 
ing like a golden cascade, through which, 
here and there, glimpses of the grey- rock 
of the cliff are seen. The Jasmine also 
makes an excellent companion to Cotoneaster 
mierophyllla, the rich crimson of whose in¬ 
numerable berries forms a most telling con¬ 
trast to the clear yellow blossoms of the 
Winter Jasmine. — S. W. Fitzherbert. 


DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS IN 
WINTER. 

We are so often asked for lists of flowering 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 

SPIR.-EA BRACTEATA. 

It is questionable if of all our hardy shrubs 
the nomenclature of any of them is iu a 
more confused state than that of the Spiraeas, 
for many of them have quite a long list of 
sy'nonyms. The Himalayan Spiraea cane- 
eceus may be taken as an example, for, ac¬ 
cording to the Kew Hand List, it is also 
known by twenty-four other names. 

That delightful species herewith figured 
also possesses a plurality of names, among 
others being Spiraea media rotundifolia, 
Spirtea nipponica, and Spirtea rotundifolia 
alba. Though opinions sometimes differ, we 
tnay now, I think, take it that S. bracteata, 
a native of Japan, is specifically distinct 
from the European Spinea media. 

In general appearance Spiraea bracteata 
may be described as a rather dense-growing 
bush, 5 feet to 6 feet high, whose gracefullv- 


SpirEBa bracteata. From a photograph in 


disposed shoots are furnished for some dis¬ 
tance with flattened clusters of pure white 
flowers, each cluster being borne on short, 
spur-like shoots, as may be seen in the ac¬ 
companying illustration. It flowers, as a 
rule, towards the latter part of May and in 
June, and, when at its best, is so beautiful 
that, however rigid the selection may be, it 
is, undoubtedly, entitled to a place among 
the most desirable of the Spiraeas. The 
specific name of bracteata is derived from the 
leafy bracts which are borne on the flower- 
stalks just below the flower clusters. Among 
its other desirable features is that the flower- 
buds are very rarelv, if at all, injured by 
late spring frosts, which play havoc with 
some of the early-flowering species. X. 


Jasminum nudiflorum.— From early De¬ 
cember onwards, the Winter Jasmine is one 
of our most valuable flowers, brightening the 
landscape with the gold/^rTts-countkas|nl^8- 
soms at the most drearlp^^o(| Cf AJ f\nr. 


Mr. Chambers’ garden, Ilaalemerc, Surrey. 


I evergreeus us to lead one to the conclusion 
that the beauty of many deciduous subjects 
at that season is too often overlooked. Not 
only do some of them flower during the win- 
I ter, but the fruits of others, when untouched 
I by birds, are highly ornamental, and the 
i majority of others possess a quiet beauty of 
their own. It may be tho branches them- 
| selves and the disposition of the minor shoots, 

I now particularly noticeable when devoid of 
leaves, or the contour of the entire specimen, 
arrest attention, while with respect to the 
, colour of the bark many deciduous trees and 
I shrubs stand out in a remarkable degree. 

Of trees one’s thoughts at once revert to 
1 our native Birch (Betula alba), whose trunks, 

I in some instances, when viewed from a dis¬ 
tance, stand out almost like burnished silver. 
When grown in quantity, it is very interest- 
I ing to note the amount of individual variation 
j that exists among them in respect to the 
' colour of the bark. The amount of the deli¬ 
cate spray and the manner in which it is dis- 


A winter picture Willows and Dogwood. 
—In the Cardinal Willow, the yellow Willow, 
and the Dogwood we have a trio of cheap 
and common things that, suitably blended, 
will enliven the landscape in the depth of 
winter with the brightest colour. All who 
have a lake, stream, or damp spot should en¬ 
deavour to plant a bold mass of these three 
things. Each alone is exceedingly beautiful. 
The y'ellow Willow (Salix vitellina) makes a 
handsome tree, but is, perhaps, most effective 
when occasionally cut down, 60 that it be¬ 
comes a thicket of wand shoots, whose bark 
is of a rich-yellow colour. What the Cardinal 
Willow' is exactly is not quite clear. Some 
make it a variety of S. vitellina, but instead 
of the bark being yellow, it is of a glowing 
red colour. Under the name of the Cardinal 
Willow’, however, it is largely grown in the 
Surrey nurseries chiefly for tying, as its 
shoots are exceedingly tough. No other tree 
or shrub that we have could produce such an 
effect in the midst of winter, and the harder 
and sharper the weather, the brighter the 
colour becomes. This lovely Willow retains 
its brightly-coloured hark iT permitted to grow 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




6 b'* 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


February 8, 1908 


into a tree, and then the Dogwood comes in 
admirably for associating with it. The bark 
of the Dogwood is hardly less bright in colour 
than that of the Cardinal Willow. The Dog¬ 
wood will make a dense spreading mass, from 
which here and there trees of the red and 
yellow Willows might arise, and the result 
will be a beautiful picture—a welcome relief 
from eombro Evergreens. Certainly these 
three things are in their fullest beauty when 
naked and leafless, for with the rise of the 
6 ap in spring, although the colour does not 
wholly disappear, it fades, and later on is 
hidden by leaves. 


GARDEN WORK. 


Conservatory.— When new conservatories 
are built the question of furnishing them 
effectively is often an anxious one, and if the 
house is large there will, probably, be 
climbers and other plants set out perman¬ 
ently, and the filling in of the borders re¬ 
quires careful consideration. I have several 
times met with instances where mistakes 
have been made, and at the end of a couple 
of years the work has had to be done over 
again. When the house is empty, special 
sites can easily be made for special plants. 
Drainage there must be, unless the natural 
soil is very porous. If there is a cool, shady 
corner, make a good bed of turfy loam and 
peat, well drained, for Lapagerias (white 
and red), and encourage them to grow up 
into the roof and ramble about. For 
Marechal Niel and other climbing Roses pre¬ 
pare a bed of good mixed soil, with a little 
very old cow-manure and 6ome basic slag, 
bone-meal, and soot as condiments, if I may 
so term it. If there is a back wall, it may 
be planted with the Citron or Orange family, 
or Camellias. The Oranges will do well in 
good loam and a little old manure and bone- 
meal. Camellias will not grow if there is 
lime in the 6oil. They will grow- in peat of 
good quality or leaf-mould, if free from bits 
of wood or anything likely to generate fun¬ 
gus, and a little really good turfy loam will 
be an improvement, as it gives body to the 
soil. Among climbers which are suitable are 
the following, or some of them:—Cobiea 
scandens variegata, a light, graceful plant, 
that rambles about freely ; Jasminum gracilli- 
inum and J. grandiflorum, very sweet; Big- 
nonia Tweediana, an old yellow-flowered 
climber, very effective; Passiflora Empress 
Eugenie ; : Mandevilla suaveolens, very fra¬ 
grant; Sollya heterophylla, a pretty twining 
blue-flowered plant; Clematis indivisa 
lobata, a free-growing, white-flowered species, 
suitable for cool-house; and Habrothnm- 
nus fascicularis, suitable for wall or pillar. 
Tacsonia exoniensis wants plenty of room. 
Luoulia gratissima is a splendid wall plant. 

Stove. —This is a good season to go through 
the collection and thoroughly clean and 
prune anything which requires it. Caladiums 
should be looked over, and those corms which 
are on the move should be potted in sandy 
peat in rather small pots. Later on, when 
shifting into larger pots, we add a little old 
turfy loam, and the strong-growing kinds 
may have a little old, dry cow-dung rubbed 
fine and added to the compost, with, of 
course, sand enough added to keep it open 
uud allow the water to pass away freely. If 
any old plant in the general collection gets 
out of health, put on the rubbish-heap, and 
work on a young plant. Most self-respecting 
gardeners generally have young plants com¬ 
ing on to replac e those which are old and 
worn out, as neither plants nor men will last 
fur all time. If there is a propagating-i ase, 
cuttings of any plants likelv to lie required 
will root now and on through the spring. 
Seeds of many things also may he sown. 
Summer-flowering climbers, such as Alla- 
mandas and Clcrodendrons, may be shortened 
back a little to ripe wood, and as soon as 
the buds show 6igns of movement repot in 
good loam and peat, with a little old cow- 
manure and sand. 


Work In the vineries.— With several 
vineries coming on in succession, the Mus¬ 
cats will have a honae to themselves, and 
this house will now be closed for starting. 
To do them well Muscats require a higher 
temperature than they 


M.u^cats require a hi] 
ft ! i er > a p ° *,xard> f 


are to be ripened well before the days 
shorten an early start should be made. If 
a start is made now with a night temperature 
of 50 degs., working upwards to 65 degs. 
when the flowers are ready to open, that will, 
in most instances, be sufficient. Some 
growers run the thermometer a little higher 
when the flowers are setting, but I do not 
think there is much advantage in it, and it 
certainly increases the fuel bill. It is, 1 
think, more important to have the roots 
healthy and vigorous, and. if outside, helped 
with a gently fermenting leaf-bed. 

Early Peach-house. —Commence disbud¬ 
ding when the young shoots are an inch or 
so long, taking off the badly-placed shoots 
first, and make sure the best-placed shoots 
for carrying on the work are left. There 
must he a good shoot near the base of each 
bearing branch and a leader to give a stimu¬ 
lus to the rising sap, but the leader, if it 
encroaches upon other ehoots, may be pinched 
during the summer, if necessary, though, on 
the whole it is better for it to remain, if 
there is room for it, as good foliage helps the 
work of the tree, if there is no overcrowding. 
If the young fruits have set thickly, those on 
the under side of the branches may be re¬ 
moved, as they are not likely to be required, 
as Peach-trees in good health always set 
many more fruits than are required. If the 
water is pure, and of the same temperature 
as the house, the syringe may be usefully 
employed every fine day. Otherwise atmos¬ 
pheric moisture must be supplied by damp¬ 
ing floors and borders. The borders must be 
kept in a reasonably moist condition. 

Pines. —Select fine weather for overhaul¬ 
ing the stock of successions. Some may 
want repotting. The forwardest may, pos¬ 
sibly, do with top-dressing, if helped with 
warm liquid-manure. The plunging-beds 
may require turning over and renewing with 
fresh tan or leaves. Suckers may be taken 
off old 6tools and started in 5-inch or 6-inch 
pots, potting firmly. In all cases firm pot¬ 
ting is necessary for Pines, and the loam 
must be of the best, and it should be forti¬ 
fied with a little good manure. I have used 
horse-droppings and old cow-manure with 
similar results, hut much depends upon the 
character of the loam. If the loam is heavy, 
horse-manure is the better; if inclined to 
lightness, then cow-manure will l>e the bet¬ 
ter. The drainage should be free, and a 
sprinkling of soot in the bottom of the pot 
may help to keep out the worni6, as they are 
sometimes present, in the plunging material. 
Night temperature for fruiting-house, 65 degs. 
Succession-houses and pits will do at 60 degs. 
Dew the plants over with a fine syringe on 
bright days, and ventilate carefully without 
draught. 

Plants in the house.— Well furnished 
plants of Begonia Gloire de Lorraine will 
keep sometimes in condition in warm, light 
rooms, and such Orchids as Dendrobium 
mobile are lasting. Those who have adopted 
the electric system of lighting will find a 
great improvement in their plants, as every¬ 
thing lasts so much longer. 

Outdoor garden. —As soon ns the surface 
of the beds and borders is dry enough to 
place a foot upon, if any plants have been 
disturbed by the frost, press the soil round 
them again*. This will only be necessary 
where the planting has been recently done. 
A little mulch on the surface is a great help, 
and w r here a mulch cannot be used, stir it up 
lightly with the hoe or small fork. This 
will be better than a rake. Most gardeners 
dislike using a rake, ns its tendency is to seal 
up the pores of the soil when rain comes, and 
plants do bel ter when the surface is loosened 
from time to time. All kinds of deciduous 
trees and shrubs may be moved now in open 
weather. Evergreens may wait another 
month. Those who do much planting can¬ 
not always wait. I have planted evergreens 
at pretty well all seasons, and success is 
mainly a question of caring for them after¬ 
wards, especially when the drying winds of 
spring are here. This is the season for 
taking stock of the tender bedding plants, 
and making a note of spring requirements. 
Pelargoniums strike best in a dry heat. A 
position over the hot-water pipes will suit 
them, and they will do either in pots or 


boxes. Soft things, such as Heliotropes, 
Verbenas, Fuchsias, etc., will strike best in a 
bottom-heat bed. Those who have no 
bottom-heat bed may strike cuttings of all 
kinds in rather deep boxes covered with 
squares of glass, the boxes to be placed on 
a warm surface, and the glasses reversed 
every day. 

Fruit garden. —Finish all pruning, and 
give prompt attention to spraying, either 
with soap and petroleum or the soda and 
potash spray fluid, the formula for which has 
often been given in Gardening Illus¬ 
trated. A dressing of lime will be useful 
to clear off all green matter from stems and 
branches. We know, of course, November is 
the best month for planting fruit-trees, but 
it is better to plant even as late as March, 
than put it off till next autumn. There are 
often good reasons when autumn planting is 
delayed. Late planting is not so suitable for 
Apples on the Paradise stock. If planted 
early in autumn, they will be busy making 
roots now. I have occasionally heard or 
failures when trees on dwarf stocks are 
planted late and neglected. Many of these 
surface-rooting trees are ruined through 
digging among the roots, and not feeding 
sufficiently on the surface. Prepare the site 
fov Figs and Grape-Vines. Stations can be 
made with concrete, and as there is usually 
plenty of stones and clinkers about a garden, 
these, if broken up, and grouted in with 
lime, make a very good foundation. Sta¬ 
tions 4 feet square will be sufficient, as, when 
the roots extend beyond, they can easily be 
lifted and pruned. This will cause the forma¬ 
tion of short-growth wood, that will ripen 
well. 

Vegetable garden. —These who have a 
warm, sunny border may, when the surface 
is dry, plant a few early Potatoes, and 60 W 
Horn Carrots, Radishes, Pea-s, and Beans. 
All early crops will be sown in small plots. 
As the warm, sunny spots in some gardens 
are limited, the most will be made of them. 
Cabbages of a small early kind may be 
planted 9 inches or 10 inches apart 
oil warm border for first cutting, and 
when the hearts are large enough for 
use, the stems can be pulled up and 
the ground planted with dwarf French 
Beans. As soon as the Cabbages show signs 
of hearting, tie a bit of matting or raffia 
round the leaves, drawing them up loosely 
to hasten the formation of the hearts. All 
the vegetable garden should he well culti¬ 
vated, but special attention should be given 
to these early borders, as the deeper and 
better the cultivation, the faster the crops 
grow. A regular succession of Asparagus 
and Seakale should be coining on now. Any 
break in the supply leads to unpleasant 
questions from the kitchen. Mushrooms also 
must be available, and the only way to be 
perfectly safe is to make up new beds often. 
A failure may arise sometimes from a cause 
beyond the control of the cultivator, such 
as the mixture of manure from animals 
going through a course of medicine or had 
spawn. E. Hobday. 

THE COMING WEEK’S WORK. 

Extracts f rom a Garden Diary. 

February 10th .—Gave a dressing of soot to 
the lawn, where the Grass is weakly from 
much use. Prepared several beds for Hybrid 
Tea Roses. The plants are in pots, and will 
be planted out early in April. We are also 
making a special feature of pillar Roses, and 
some of the strong-growing Ramblers, mixed 
with Honeysuckles, have been planted to 
climb up trees. 

February 11th .—Took advantage of a fine 
day to sow Peas, Early Longpod Beanes 
Carrots, and Radishes oil a warm, sunny 
border. Also planted some early Potatoes. 
Stopping and tying down Vines in Ham¬ 
burgh house. Moved more Strawberries to 
starting-pits. The Strawberries coming into 
blossom have been moved from pit to 
shelves in light house, with a night tempera¬ 
ture of 55 degs. The camel’s-hair brush will 
be used daily among the blossoms. 

February 12th .—Moved Dahlias and Salvia 
patens into heat; shall take cuttings when 
the young shoots are a couple of inches long. 
Jftjyed poinsetiias from conservatory; shall 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



February 8, 1908 


0G3 


GARDENING IL L VST 11A TDD. 


keep the plants dry and rest them for the 
present, and, when placed in heat again, shall 
strike cuttings of the young shoots. Finished 
pruning and washing Morello Cherries on 
north wall. 

February ISth .—Pruned and trained 
climbing Roses in cold house. Planted 
another house with Cucumbers, and a small 
house with Melons. Night temperature, 
65 dogs. Put in cuttings of Pelargoniums 
and other bedding plants. The Pelargoniums 
are rooted in shallow boxes over hot-water 
pipes. Other soft stuff is propagated in a 
close propagating-house, the pots being 
plunged in bottom-heat. 

February Ijth- —Cleared ofF exhausted 
greens; manured and trenched the ground 
ready for next crop. Gave ground intended 
for Onions a dressing of soot and salt. Most 
of our Onions are raised under glass, and 
planted on good land early in April. We 
have no trouble with maggots now. A few 
rows of white Spanish are sown for drawing 
young. 

February 15th .—Thinned the Grapes on 
pot Vines, support in the way of a rich 
mulch and liquid-manure is given often. The 
pots are halt plunged in leaf-bed. Disbud¬ 
ded Figs in pots ; young shoots left to bear 
second, crop will be pinched when five good 
leaves are made. Sowed Stocks, Asters, and 
other tender annuals in boxes. 


ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 
January 28th. 

There was a decided increase of exhibits and 
visitors at this meeting. There were no less 
than three lady exhibitors of water-colour 
drawings, some of which w r ere remarkably 
good. The group from Messrs. H. B. May 
and Sons, Edmonton, was well arranged, and 
contained choice specimens of Davallia, 
Platycerum, etc. Of the Nephrolepis section 
there were several of the newer kinds, not¬ 
ably some fine masses of N. todcaoides, in 
superb condition. Dracaenas, Primula ob- 
conica, Crotons, and other plants played their 
part in a good display. The Primula sinen¬ 
sis in red, white, pink, and other shades from 
the Messrs. Cannell and Sons, Swanley, 
were very good for so early in the season. 
From Reading the Messrs. Sutton and Sons 
oent Cyclamen persicum in well-grown, freely- 
flowered plants. The self coloured varieties 
in pure white and salmon-pink were very 
attractive and good, the shapely blossoms 
surmounting the well marbled leafage in pro¬ 
fusion. Others of the Papilio strain and the 
newer “fringed” or tipped varieties wore 
also freely shown. The Hardy Plant Nursery, 
Guildford (Mr. A. R. Upton), staged the 
shrubby Veronicas in variety, together with 
well-flowered masses of Erica mediterranea 
hybrida. The group of Hollies from the 
Messrs. Waterer, Bagshot, was as valuable as 
it was interesting, and included among the 
species shown such diverse kinds as Ilex lati- 
folia, not unlike a Magnolia in its leafage ; 
I. Wilsoni, I. Mundyi, I. scotica, I. eornuta, 
both very hardy and enduring ; also I. cre- 
nata latifolia, quite a miniature-leaved kind. 
Golden Queen, Gold King, yellow-berried, and 
Weeping Silver were also shown, the plants re¬ 
presenting tall standards and pyramids, also 
those of bush growth. Carnations and hardy 
flowers were shown by the Messrs. Win. Cut- 
bush and Sons, Highgate, the former includ¬ 
ing all the well-known varieties, the latter 
embracing the earliest of the bulbous Irises, 
as Histrio, reticulata, Lauri, galatiea, etc. 
Fine masses of Daphne indivisa and D. 
Mezereum were also noted in the group, which 
occupied one of the long tables. Carnations, 
Cyclamens, and Euphorbia jacquiniseflora, in 
large, separate groups, made a most imposing 
arrav as staged by the Messrs. Hugh Low and 
Co., Enfield. The Carnations were excellent, 
and the Cyclamen named Lows Salmon is 
a fine bit of colour. Mr. Burnett, Guernsey, 
also set up a fine lot of Carnations, Mrs. 
Burnett and Marmion being especially good. 
Hardy shrubs of a useful and attractive char¬ 
acter' were staged bv Mr. L. R. Russell, 
Richmond, Eurva latifolia variegata, Eleag- 
nus picta aurea, and the Aucuba japonica 
vera being prominent. Messrs. Peed and 
Sons, West Norwood, again brought alpines 
and succulents. With^W^iite Primula Stel- 

Digitize, by GOOglC 


lata the Misses Hopkins, Mere, Shepperton, 
had Primroses, Christmas Roses, and alpines. 
Mr. G. Reuthe had choice alpines, in which 
were many Saxifragas; while the Messrs. 
Barr and .Sons, Covent Garden, brought Len¬ 
ten Roses, Snowdrop, Chinese Sacred Lily, 
and Italian Hyacinths, and some goodly 
tufts of hardy Heaths. 

The Orchids were especially good, and 
many fine collections were staged. The 
Messrs. Low and Co., Enfield, had a large 
variety of Cvpripediums, also La?lia anceps, 
and others; the Messrs. Jas. Veitch and 
Sons, Ltd., Chelsea, staged, in addition to 
many choice Cypripediums, some fine 
examples of Tricophila suavis and Odonto- 
glossums ; Mr. F. McOgilvio, Oxford, had a 
choice lot of Cyripediums ; while the Messrs. 
Heath and Son, Cheltenham, in addition to 
many choice examples of the last-named, had 
large specimens of Cattleya Percivaliana. 
The collection of Cypripediums from Messrs. 
Jas. Cypher and Son, Cheltenham, contained 
many choice varieties, and in addition hand¬ 
some flowering examples of Calanthes Odon- 
toglossum crispum, and Cattleya Trianae 
Princess Ena. a nearly pure white flower, 
were shown. Messrs. McBean, Cooksbridge, 
had a fine lot of Odontoglossums, Lcelia 
anceps alba, and others. Cypripediums, 
Lycastes, and Odontoglossum crispum were 
staged by Messrs. J. W. Moore, Ltd., Leeds. 
The Messrs. Charlcsworth, Bradford, had a 
lovely lot of the Laelio-Cattleva Andromeda 
(L. fiava x Cattleya aurea), in which the 
dominant colours are golden and reddish- 
crimson, the latter seen in the lip of this 
very handsome plant. The combined colours 
are singularly telling and beautiful. Messrs. 
Armstrong and Brown, Tunbridge Wells, also 
brought a small group of Orchids. 

A large collection of Potatoes and some 
handsome specimens of Ailsa Craig Onion 
were exhibited by Mrs. Denison, Little Gad- 
desdon, Berkhamstead (gardener, Mr. 
Gentle). Apples from the Messrs. Peed were 
in many varieties, and well displayed ; while 
a dish of Blickling Pear, from the Hon. C. 
Ilarboard, Gunton Park, Norwich (gardener, 
Mr. Allam), received an award of merit. 

A list of awards will be found in our 
advertising columns. 

LAW AND CUSTOM. 


Purchase and completion-right to profits. 

—On June 1st I bought, for £'3,000, a house and 
garden and land (void by death at time). I paid my 
deposit of £300 at the time of purchase, and agreed 
to complete in a month. To whom does the fruit in 
the garden (and (Jra.ss on the land) belong between 
purchase and completion)'— Senex. 

[There is usually a provision for appor¬ 
tionment ; and, indeed, this is the most .satis¬ 
factory method. But unless there is any 
such express stipulation the law is that, be¬ 
tween contract and completion, the vendor 
remains a trustee of the property, and it is 
his duty to protect it from injury by tres¬ 
passers and in similar ways. But lie is only 
a trustee in respect of the property actually 
contracted to bo sold—not a trustee of rents 
and profits to accrue !>efore the time fixed 
for completion—and, therefore, he (the ven¬ 
dor) is entitled to all such rents and also to 
such crops or other produce of the soil as 
may be taken in due course (but not out of 
due course).— Barrister.] 

Fencing of land (N. If. L .).—You cannot 
compel any man to put up a fence on his 
own land unless he is under what is called a 
“prescriptive obligation” to supply and 
maintain fences for your benefit. Now, it is 
quite clear to me that there is no evidence 
of any such obligation in this case—if there 
were it would assuredly appear on the deeds 
in some form—and I can only advise you to 
put up a fence yourself if you really require 
it. Bear in mind that no man is obliged 
to fence himself against the cattle or other 
live stock of his neighbour. Every man 
must keep his own live stock at home, and if 
they pass over the boundary-line and cause 
damage to the neighbour, their owner will be 
liable to pay compensation for that damage. 
I mention this, because it may have some 
bearing upon the circumstances.— Bar¬ 
rister. 


POULTRY. 

THE VICE OF EGG-EATING. 

A vice to which laying hens are frequently 
addicted is that of eating their own or other 
hens’ eggs, and particularly is it prevalent 
during the winter months, when the fowls 
have little with which to occupy their time, 
having to remain under cover for so great a 
part of many days; besides this, when they 
can wander about, the soil is so barren of 
animal or vegetable life that it scarcely pays 
them to scratch for food. Birds in close con¬ 
finement arc more subject than those en¬ 
joying their freedom, owing in a large mea¬ 
sure to the fact that the latter are able to 
procure any amount of exercise. Consider¬ 
able difficulty is often experienced in deter¬ 
mining the cause of egg-eating, because birds 
of totally different ages, kept under alto¬ 
gether different conditions, and in localities 
quite dissimilar, seem to be equally liable. 
The worst feature of this habit is that it 
may continue for a long time without being 
discovered, us nothing remains of the egg, 
shell, everything being consumed, and repre¬ 
senting a very considerable loss. If a hen 
can be discovered in the act, and she is not 
of very great value, the best plan is to wring 
her neck without delay, otherwise the 
whole flock will soon acquire the habit. 

Of the causes of this vice, the most com¬ 
mon is probably that the hens are receiving 
too small a supply of lime, the lack of whicn 
the birds quickly realise, when they com¬ 
mence pecking at the shells in order to satisfy 
their craving. If the insufficient supply oE 
lime continues, soft-shelled eggs result, 
which are useless for any purpose whatever 
save for home consumption. Broken oyster- 
shell is, perhaps, the best form in which the 
necessary lime may be supplied, and a plenti¬ 
ful supply should always be available. A 
scarcity of nest-boxes often causes this vice, 
as the eggs are laid about in the litter or in 
the run; it is really putting temptation in 
the way of the birds, especially should one 
accidentally get broken, as this gives the 
birds a liking for the taste. The third cause 
of egg-eating is idleness, and, as already indi¬ 
cated, this is particularly so during the win¬ 
ter months. # “Satan still some mischief finds 
for idle beaks to do ” is an old saying, 
slightly altered, which is very applicable in 
this instance. Unless the hens are kept 
busily employed, they are almost certain to 
contract the vice of egg-eating or some such 
troublesome complaint. A Cabbage or Man¬ 
gold hung up in the run, just out of reach of 
the birds, affords them exercise and amuse¬ 
ment; an excellent plan t is to scatter the 
grain among the litter in the scratching-shed, 
which gives the birds occupation for hours. 
A plan I have tried with success, of curing 
birds afflicted with this vice, is to blow an 
egg and refill with a mixture of cayenne 
pepper and mustard. If this is left in a 
prominent place, and is eaten by the fowls, 
the probability is they will never touch 
another egg so long as they live. 

E. T. B. 


DETERMINING THE AGE OF AN EGG. 
The importance of sending only perfectly 
fresh eggs to market cannot easily be Over¬ 
estimated, as, unless they can be guaranteed 
quite new-laid, a very satisfactory price can¬ 
not be expected. At one time Ireland was 
our chief source of supply for new-laid eggs ; 
but. so badly were they packed, and in many 
cases so stale were they ere they were des¬ 
patched, that they could not be relied on, 
and the London dealers had to look else¬ 
where for their supplies. This was the 
foreigner’s opportunity, of which he w r as not 
slow to avail himself; and, sending perfectly 
fresh eggs, excellently packed and graded, 
he has now obtained a hold on our markets 
that will not be easily shaken. As many of 
the home supplies cannot be trusted, it is the 
custom of many of our large dairies to test 
every egg they sell, and there are some quite 
simple yet effective methods of determining 
the approximate age and condition of an 
egg. It must be remembered in this connec¬ 
tion that age is not everything; a great deal 
depends upon the conditions under which 
the eggs have been kept. It js possible for 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



GA1W Em KG ILL VST RAT ED, 


CtiC 


JeDRUARY 8 , 1908 


un egg three weeks old to be in a much 
better state than one three days old ; natu¬ 
rally, a great deal must depend upon the tem¬ 
perature and purity of the atmosphere under 
which the eggs have been stored. 

The most common method, and probably 
the simplest and most effective, of testing an 
egg for freshness, is that known as 
“candling.” In this ease an egg is held be¬ 
fore a light in a dark room, when the air¬ 
space is clearly discernible, situated tow a. .s 
the broad end. In a new-laid egg this space is 
quite small, but as age increases it expands 
very considerably, until, when the egg is 
three weeks old, the air-space occupies about 
one-sixth of the whole. This increase in the 
size of the air-space is due to the evapora¬ 
tion of the contents through the minute holes 
with which the shell is pierced. If a new- 
laid egg is placed in a vessel containing a 
solution of 4 ounces of salt to 1$ pints of 
water, it sinks to the bottom; one a day old 
floats about an inch from the bottom ; one 
two or three days old floats about midway, 
while one more than four days old remains 
upon the surface. The new-laid egg sinks 
because the air-space is so small, but as age 
increases and the air-space becomes larger, 
the egg becomes more buoyant. It is also 

f iossible to determine whether an egg is new- 
aid or stale, although the age cannot be told 
to within a day or two, by the appearance of 
the shell. On a new-laid egg there is as 
much bloom as there is upon a Grape, which 
quite disappears as age increases, until, when 
it is a fortnight old, the shell has a dull and 
greyish look. E. T. B. 


BEES. 

THE APIARY. 

At this season of the year the bees should 
not be interfered with, except that, should 
the roof of a hive be suspected of leaking, 
some covering should be placed over it to 
turn the wet. Other matters connected with 
bee-keeping may, however, be attended to, 
so that, directly the busy season comes round, 
there may be no delay. Order all appliances 
that may be wanted during the summer, for 
if ordered now there will be prompt delivery. 
The opportunity may be taken either make 
new hives or repair old ones. All appliances 
on hand that need either cleaning or repair¬ 
ing should also be taken in hand and pro¬ 
perly attended to. If the bee-keeper has not 
hitherto kept books in connection with his 
apiary, now is the tiipe to start, for it is 
only by keeping a record of receipts and ex¬ 
penses that it can be told how bee-keeping 
answers. Booking everything tells exactly, 
if there happens to he leakage anywhere, how 
that leakage occurs. 

Perhaps the greatest use that the bee¬ 
keeper can at the present season turn his 
spare evenings to is to read up thoroughly 
concerning the ways and habits of bees and 
the trend of modern l>ee-keeping. Many 
bee-keepers ignore the theoretical side of 
their pursuit, but, although a thoroughly 
practical bee-keeper is far more likely to 
make a success of bee-keeping than one that 
is full of theory but lacks in practice, yet if 
a bee-keeper desires to get into the very 
front rank, he must pay attention to both 
points of view'. Study closely the natural 
history of the bee, and you will then under¬ 
stand exactly why the various fittings and 
appliances are made to certain patterns, and 
used in certain ways. Theory also supple¬ 
ments practice in the handling of the bees 
during the working season, and theory, by 
the throw-ing out of suggestions and ideas, 
is the factor that has done so much towards 
the advancement of bee-keeping. 

J. T. Bird. 


BIRDS. 


Parrot moulting (.V. E. P. II.).-Tut a few drops 
or Parrish’s chemical food into the drinking water- 
say, ten drops to each ounce of water. Give a piece 
of soft wood partially decayed for the bird to gnaw, 
and, if possible, let the bird have its liberty in an 
empty room, if with a companion of the same race 
so much the better. Milk, meat, and butter are very 
had for parrots, and cause them to lose their 
feathers. You should ascertain whether your bird i9 
*»re' 


infested with parasites, 


Google 


CORRESPONDENCE. 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

Pelargoniums unhealthy (Whinhurst). — You 
give us no clue whatever as to where your plants 
have been kept. It is, however, quite evident that 
they have been kept too wet at the roots, while the 
atmosphere has evidently been moist also. Keep them 
drier at the roots, and allow a good circulation of air 
to play among them, and you will find, we think, that 
they will recover. 

Clematis montana, pruning (Subscriber). — 
Carefully trim out all superfluous shoots and shorten 
back the main branches, leaving a shoot or two near 
the top of each to draw up the sap. Do this as soon 
as the flowering is over, but if you do not mind 
sacrificing the bloom, then you may do it at once. 
The plants can be easily kept within bounds by a 
little judicious pruning each season after flowering is 
over. 

Soot for tennis-lawn ( Sackctlle). — A tennis-lawn 
—that is, the area of the tennis-court—is roughly one- 
fifteenth of an acre. If you allow for the over run, 
you will probably have to deal with one-twelfth. 
The dressing of soot may vary from 20 bushels to 
40 bushels or 50 bushels per acre. If you use 
2J bushels to 3 bushels to the tennis-lawn you will, 
however, be giving a very good dose. You must bear 
in mind that the use of soot in such cases is not 
always satisfactory, more particularly if a dry time 
immediately follows the application. NVc should pre¬ 
fer in the case of a tennis lawn using a smaller quan¬ 
tity. 

Grafting Camellias and Rhododendrons 

(J. II. S .).—Judging from your letter, you are ap¬ 
parently under the impression that the Camellia is 
increased by grafting on to the Hydrangea; but this 
is, of course, quite impossible, as the two are in no 
way related, and unless- there Is a close botanical 
affinity no union will take place. The garden varie¬ 
ties of Camellia are grafted on to seedling stocks of 
the single red Camellia japoniea. Hide grafting as 
near to the ground as possible is the method generally 
employed, and the operation may take place as soon 
as the young growths have become woody—say in 
July or August. After grafting, the plants must be 
kept in a close propagating case till a union is com¬ 
plete. Tlie Rhododendrons may he grafted on to 
young, healthy stocks of R. ponticurn at the same 
time and given the same treatment as the Camellias. 

Palm unhealthy (A. C.).—The two pieces of leaf 
of tiie Palm you send are covered with scale, and until 
you thoroughly clear the plant of this pest you cannot 
expect it to do well. You should carefully go over 
every portion of the stem and leaves with a blunt¬ 
ed ged knife, and scrape off every bit of scale you 
can find. Then make up strong soapy water, using 
1 lb. of soft soap to a bucketful of boiling water, and 
when it is dissolved and the water is yet quite warm, 
give the whole of the stems and leaves a good wash¬ 
ing with a fairly hard brush, then thoroughly wash 
with clear water, using a syringe for the purpose. It 
fs of no use to ignore this pest, and any plant in¬ 
fested with it must be thoroughly cleaned. The spots 
on the leaves are probably due to insufficient water¬ 
ing, or it may be had drainage, causing the soil to 
be sour and injuring the roots. t You may, have over¬ 
watered after repotting, and the plant has never got 
over it. 

Climbers for trellis (Canowie. Bristol). — You 
may. if you wish to, cover the trellis with Ramhler 
Roses; but as they are not mentioned in your sug¬ 
gestions, we assume that you prefer something else. 
We cannot understand by your letter whether you 
wish all the plants to be evergreen or not. Of ever¬ 
greens, Eseallonia macrantha. though not a climber, 
i3 a quick-growing shrub, well suited for the purpose 
named, and a succession of its bright-red flowers is 
kept up throughout the summer months. It is, we 
think, the best quick-growing, flowering evergreen 
that you can have. Of deciduous subjects there is a 
great choice, the forms of Clematis alone being very 
numerous. The white, spring-flowering Clematis 
montana grows rapidly, while the popular C. Jack- 
mani is very handsome. Forsythia suspensa, with 
yellow flowers borne early in the year, before the 
leaves expand, can be recommended, w hile of Honey¬ 
suckles, Lonieera japoniea or Hnllenna is a quick 
grower and flowers beautifully. The common Jas¬ 
mine is also a charming climber. 

Hardy plants (Gems).—The Sweet Williams and 
Canterbury Bells, from your description of their size, 
should, we think, if planted out in good ground in 
April, flower well this year. Respecting the Del¬ 
phiniums, we fear thc-se will not, or should a few of 
the plants flower at all such flowering could not be 
looked upon as representative of their kind. At the 
same time, you cannot err in putting them into their 
permanent places in the spring, or, failing this, giving 
them a season in a reserve spot to gather strength. 
Such plants as these arc better if sown in the open 
ground in February or March when a year old, giving 
them their permanent positions in border or shrub¬ 
bery. In September the growing season of these 
things has passed, and in a large number of instances 
the seeds would have remained dormant until the 
spring of the present year. Delphiniums die down to 
the ground each year in the ordinary way, and make 
their growth in the earlier summer months, and for 
these reasons the seeds should be sown at a time 
calculated to admit of early vegetating and a season 
of growth to follow in a nearly natural order, if 
possible. 

Chrysanthemums, how to grow a mixed col 
lection (J. I ).).—The sixteen varieties in the list sub¬ 
mitted to us are mostly of Japanese origin, and repre¬ 
sent sorts that ure becoming less popular each sueces- 
siveseason. The following are Japanese varieties : Vicar 
of Leatherhead, yellow; Lady K. Haunders, creamy- 
primrose; Sir W. Aclaml, bronzy-yellow ; Miss Nellie 
Pockett, waxy-white; Mme.Cainot, white; Major Powell 
Cotton, canary yellow and bronze; Oceana,yellow; Mrs. 
T. \V. Pockett, yellow; Mrs. A. R. Knight, orange 


and red; Mrs. J. Bryant, rose-pink. The follow ing are 
incurved sort#: Chus. H. Curtis, yellow; Louisa Giles, 
yellow; Ialenc, rosy-violet. Owen’s Perfection is a 
lilac and gold Japeuesc Anemone. The other varie¬ 
ties mentioned in your list arc not .known to us. As 
cuttings of all these varieties were inserted in De¬ 
cember last, most o 1 them should be rooted by this 
time. When they are about 0 inches high you should 
pinch out the point of the shoots, and in a little while 
the young plants will produce several new lateral 
growths. Each series of shoots should in turn he 
pinched in like manner when they attain a length ot 
about f. inches, and this operation repeated through¬ 
out the early summer. At the end of June the plant* 
should be pinched for the last time, and from this 
point be grown on to the terminal burin. Pot up the 
plants from time to time as they become well rooted, 
first into 3-inch pots, then into 5-inch or 6-Inch pots, 
and finally into pots 9 inches or lu inches in diameter. 
Always pot firmly, using soil for the final potting of 
a rich and lasting kind. By following these simple 
rules you should produce nice, bushy, free flowcring 
plants of a specially interesting character. 

FRUIT. 

Fears dropping (Cross Hands). —F.vidently the 
roots have gone down into the subsoil, and it will he 
well, we think, to examine them. To do this you 
must open .a trench all round the tree some 2 feet 
in depth, and at u distance of from 3 feet to 5 feet 
from the stem of.the tree. All the roots,are thus 
cut clean off to the distance named. A long, sharp 
chisel should be fastened to the end of a long handle, 
and, having cleared the soil from under tlie ball, 
sever all the roots that are going downward. Then 
remove the soil from the surface of the ball and re¬ 
place with a mixture of loam, wood-ashes, burnt rub- 
blsh, and bone-dUst, filling up the trench with the 
same mixture. Topdress with manure for the winter, 
and again in June for the summer. If your Blenheim 
Orange is badly cankered and covert'd with Ameri¬ 
can blight, we should advise you-to at onee dig it 
up and burn it. You have pruned the. tree too 
severely. Plant a young tree on the Crab, and spare 
the knife. 

Pruning newly-planted fruit trees (IT. G.).— 
The pruning of fruit-trees and Roses materially dif¬ 
fers, so fur as their ditferenee in habit of growth is 
concerned, but the knife lias to be used in the Marne 
way. With trees recently planted and which have 
not been able to make new roots yet, your course 
must be to shorten back all strong shoots of last 
season's growth one half their length, and all side 
or weaker shoots to a couple of buds. By such fairly- 
liard pruning you compel the trees to make both 
good wood growth nnd root growth, and also, by 
compelling new shoots to break close back, thus help 
to keep the tree dwarf and compact. The following 
year cut leading shoote one third their length only, 
and the same in future years, also hard cutting 
back to two buds all inner or weak shoots. None of 
tiie varieties of Apples or Pears you name are 
strong growers. They will, no doubt, benefit by the 
application of manure mulchings over the roots in 
the summer, and in dry weather occasional soakinca 
of water. Look out in future numbers for instruc¬ 
tion as to summer pruning. 


8H0RT REPLIES. 


Norice.—You can cut it down piecemeal, first trim¬ 
ming off all the branches and then grubbing it up by 
tlie roots. Your idea of using quicksilver will not 

answer.- Miss F. Hardcasth .—Purely a question for 

a chemist. You should get the powder analysed.- 

Sacki'ille .—Sec reply to Mrs. Wells re “ Walnut-tree 

bleeding," in our issue of February 1st, p. 652.- 

ft. J. ft.—Putting the fresh horse-droppings into the 
tank and allowing them to soak is the better plan. 
We, however, much prefer cow r -mnnure, if such can he 
had, also suspending in the water a hag containing a 

bushel of soot.- Sir William .—Really a farming 

question. Please send your query to the Editor of 

Farm and Home, published at this office.- Pelican. 

— Y’ou had better grow the Acacia you refer to in a 
cold greenhouse. If you care to, you might also try 

a plant in the open air.- C. W'. S.-We do not 

think you will find a Chrysanthemum that will bloom 

so late as Christmas in the open air.-W'affon.—Y’e*, 

your Black Currant, shoots are infested with the mite. 
See reply to M. Fraser, in our issue of December 7th, 
1907,p. 534.-*— F. E. A. V. B .—You can send plants or 
flowers to the Secretary of the R.H.S. in time for the 
various committee meetings. They will be unpacked 
and submitted to the Floral Committee or Orchid 
Committee, as the case may be. It would be well to 
advise the secretary of the despatch of the plants or 

flowers, with all information about them.- Alice 

Wade Browne. — You should write either to Messrs. 
Sutton and Sons, Reading, or Messrs. Jas. Carter and 
Co., High Holborn, W'.C., for their pamphlet* on 
lawns, which they will, no doubt, be pleased to send 
you. ___ 


NAMES OF PLANTS AND FRUITS. 


Names of plants.— J. J. 8.— 1, Fern specimen in¬ 
sufficient; 2, Oxalis sp., please send in flower; 3, Dip- 

lacus glutinosu*.- Rock-gardev .—Will you plen.-e 

send another specimen of No. 27-B'. C.—l and 2, 

Please 6end flower*. Y'ou cannot expect us to name 
Pelargoniums from leaves only; 3, Mega«ea (Saxi- 

fraga) purpurea.- Hermes .—The leaf you *°nd is 

that of what is known as a French Pelargonium. In 
tliis section are included nearly all the market varie¬ 
ties whose flowers have not that regular marking or 
smoothness of petal to entitle them to a place with 
the section known as Show Pelargoniums. Any 
nurseryman could get you plants of these French 
Pelargoniums. 

Catalogue received.— James Cocker and Sons, 
130, Union-street, Aherde^n.^Li*t »*/ Vegetable and 
Flwcr Seed* forA'JQH. 



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GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


No. 1,510— Vol. XXIX. 


Founded by II’. Robinson, Author of “ The Eiujlish Floicer Garden." 


FEBRUARY 15, 1908. 


INDEX. 


Aconite, the Winter .. 673 
Annuals fur cm ting .. 676 
Apple-trees, standard, 

pruning.6^8 

Artichokes, Jerusalem i‘>78 
Aubrietios .. .. 675 

Begonias unhealthy .. 680 
Bisulphide of carbon, 

using .630 

Border, herbaceous. 

making a .. .. 671 

Calceolaria Burbidgci.. 670 
Carnation,Tree, Ameri¬ 
can . 671 

C'himonanthus not 
blooming .. ..672 


, Chrysanthemums .. 660 

I Chrysanthemums for 

I decoration .. .. 660 

Conservatory .. 679 

I Cypripodium Spicori- 

I anum.669 

Donegal, scene in .. 675 

Eremurus bed at Myd- 

illeton House .. .. 675 

Ferns, Filmy .. .. 680 

Figs in pots .. .. 679 

Flowers for the house .. 679 I 
Forcing-house .. .. 679 

Fruit-blossoms, protect¬ 
ing .680 

Fruit-butls, birds and .. 6 >3 ‘ 


Fruit garden .. 671 

Fruit-trees, food for ., 6i7 
Fruit - trees, thinning 
flower-buds on .. 667 
Garden diary, extracts 

from a.679 

Garden work .. .. 679 

Gentian-seed .. .. 680 

Godetias.674 

Gooseberry caterpillars 68) 
Hot-beds, work with .. 679 
Incarvillea (lucarvillea 
granditlora), the large- 

flowered .673 

Iris (Iris stylosa), the 
Algerian .. 674 


j Indoor plants .. .. 670 

| Lily, Arum, tailing .. 680 
'■ Lily. Scarborough (Va- 
lotta). growing the .. 680 
Lilies for naturalising .. 674 

Luculias.671 

Melons, early . .. 679 

Onion mildew .. .. 680 

Orache .680 

! Orchids.669 

I Outdoor garden .. .. 679 

j Outdoor plants .. .. 673 

Paraffin emulsion .. 680 
Plant for north wall .. 675 
Plants, rockwork, and 
1 frost .674 


Plauts, window .. .. C76 

Potatoes. Irish seed, in 
| England.. .. .. 678 

' Richardia jethiopica 

I diseased.670 

i Romnoya Coulteri .. 674 

' Room and window .. 676 

j Rose Cheahunt Hybrid 677 

Roses .676 

■ Roses, free - flowering 
Hybrid Perpetual .. 677 

Roses—some novelties 
of merit for the forc¬ 
ing-house .. .. 676 

Spinea p&lmata and 
! vars.673 


Sal via Zurich .. .. 674 

Tropatolum tuberosum 680 

Tuberoses.672 

Vanda Kimballiana .. 669 
| Vegetable garden .. 679 
Vegetable garden, crop¬ 
ping .680 

Vegetables .. 678 

Vegetables for exhibi¬ 
tion .678 

Vine in poor condition 6t7 
Vines, Peaches, ami 
Nectarines, treatment 

of.668 

Week's work, the 
coming.679 


FRUIT. 

THINNING FLOWER-BUDS ON FRUIT- 
TREES. 

There prevails an opinion that a profusion 
of flower-buds is the forerunner of a good 
crop of fruit; but this does not always fol¬ 
low, as several contributory conditions are 
quite as essential as the organs of fer¬ 
tilisation and perfect pollen, and, lacking 
these, a Peach or other fruit-tree may be liter¬ 
ally covered with flowers, and yet the crop 
may be thin. Trees, on the other hand, 
which cast nine-tenths of their buds, almost 
invariably set every flower which expands, 
and although tho fruits appear thin and far 
between at first, they seem to increase in 
number as they swell, and sometimes re¬ 
quire thinning before the crop is ripe. I do 
not object to a profuse blossom, an without 
flowers the fruit-grower’s hopes vanish and 
the work of the past year is thrown away; 
but, having them in plenty, the roots of the 
trees must be fresh and active and the air 
temperature of the house satisfactory, other¬ 
wise the most careful fertiliser’s art will not 
avail. Pushing the buds too forward before 
the trees go to rest, keeping the roots too 
dry. overcropping in preceding years, and 
stuffing houses with plante which must not 
be touched by frost, are conditions which 
weaken the trees, and although they may get 
over the dropping stage, those which stand 
are weak and imperfect in some of their 
parts. Profuse flowering, again, is weaken¬ 
ing, and, notwithstanding the fact that the 
trees have had proper rest and the roots 
plenty of water, each individual bloom will 
be small, and puny flowers, every fruit¬ 
grower knows, are followed by indifferent 
fruit. The set, it is just possible, may be 
profuse, especially if the trees be old and 
making a last fluttering effort to reproduce 
themselves before they depart; but why allow 
them to be thus handicapped, when a thin 
blossoming is the sure forerunner of enough 
and to spare for a good crop of fruit? The 
Grape-grower gives relief to his Vines by the 
removal of the superfluous bunches so soon 
as one, naturally the best on each shoot, can 
be decided upon, and these lie further re¬ 
duces before they come into flower. The 
enthusiastic Peach grower, on the oilier 
hand, sometimes sends up to the editor of a 
gardening paper a shoot or shoots carrying 
so many dozen embryo fruits to the foot, 
and he lauds the syringe or the rabbit’s-tail; 
but what does this wonderful feat convey to 
tho practical gardener? Why, it tells him 
that the trees are in excellent health, that 
conditions are favourable, and the enthu¬ 
siast is driving them headlong on the road 
to ruin. Growers of the Chrysanthemum, 
the Pelargonium, the Camellia, the Indian 
Azalea, and other flowering plants thin the 
buds; why, then, should not we thin them 
on the Peach, the Pear, tho Apple, and the 
Plum? Time sooner or later must be given 
to thinning, otherwise /IT?* crops of §idif- 

Digitized by (jCK glU 


ferent fruit next autumn may not pay for 
gathering, when the weakened trees will 
take a year’s rest. A free-flowering Peach¬ 
tree under glass may be relieved in a few 
minutes, not by taking each bud singly, but 
by drawing the finger down the under side 
of each shoot, when 50 per cent, of the least 
desirable buds will fall, as no one carce for 
a pendent Peach or Nectarine if lie can get 
one with its apex pointing to the sun. Then, 
if time permits, those left may be still fur¬ 
ther thinned, every tenth blossom being 
ample for a heavy crop of fruit. Pears, 
Applet, Plums, Apricots, and Cherries may 
be thinned by spur-pruning in winter, and, 
extra fine fruit being the object, by the use 
of the scissors just before the flowers begin 
to expand, the finest upon each truss, as a 
matter of course, being preserved for the 
crop. But why not, some may say, leave 
these matters to Nature? Well, so we might, 
if the trees were growing in a state of nature, 
and the roots and branches were allowed to 
extend, t^uite the reverse, however, is the 
ease, especially in high-class gardens, where 
dwarfing stocks, double grafting, pinching, 
manipulating, and annual or biennial root 
lifting are devoted to the suppression of wood 
and the production of flowers. F. G. 


FOOD FOR FRUIT TREES. 

To be successful in fruit-growing, whether 
indoors or out, a certain amount of feeding 
is necessary as the trees get older, though 
there is a wide difference between the two. 
Indoors the roots are confined to a certain 
space, and unless stimulants in some form 
or other are applied periodically while growth 
is being made, and the fruit maturing, tho 
trees soon show signs of distress, eventually 
failing to perfect the crop, as well as ripen 
the wood for the succeeding season. Outside 
the case is different. The roots go in search 
of food if not available near at hand, and 
the trees go on year after year, it may he. 
carrying fairly good crops, with little, if 
any, assistance from the cultivator. Even 
here, after a time, one can notice that all is 
not well with the trees. Either they get ex¬ 
hausted. or the roots have penetrated into 
something they dislike. It is more than 
likely that both evils could have been averted 
if proper food had been afforded them, so as 
to keep the roots nenr the surface. To main¬ 
tain trees in a healthy, fruit-bearing condi¬ 
tion, it is necessary to afford some nourish¬ 
ment to tho roots annually, and this can 
either be done by top-dressings in spring 
and early summer, or by the application of 
liquid and artificial manures, the latter to 
he put on in showery weather or watered in. 
For choice, these waterings should be applied 
in summer and early autumn, before the 
water or the ground gets very cold. It must 
be remembered that liquid manure caught 
from stables and cow-stalls is usually very 
cold in winter by being underground. Un¬ 
fortunately, these liquids are not available 
to the same extent in summer as in winter, 


so, to make the most of them, they must be 
applied when they are to be had, and there 
is nothing better for old fruit-trees growing 
on Grass land or poor, hungry soils, diluting 
with clear water if found very strong. 

East Devon. 


VINE IN POOR CONDITION. 

Some ten years ago 1 planted a Vine in a small house 
with outside border. The border was made of turf, 
builders’ rubble, and bones, and contained, eay, 
2 cubic yards. The Vino has done fairly well, and 
now carries about 32 feet of bearing wood, but lately 
it has shown signs of weakness, breaking weakly, and 
one year contracting scale. It has been top-dressed 
with G inches of poultry guano and ashes for the last 
three years. How can 1 treat it to produce stronger 
growth?—F. Easter. 

[After reading your note, we are not sur¬ 
prised that the Vine in question has become 
weakened, and the only wonder is that it 
has survived the three consecutive applica¬ 
tions of poultry-manure to the roots. 
The manure from poultry-runs is a very 
valuable stimulant, but at the same time a 
powerful one, and must be used with cau¬ 
tion. When applied in small quantities, a 
marked effect upon whatever the crop may 
be generally results; but when employed in 
such an indiscriminate manner as you have 
done, it burns and kills the roots of what¬ 
ever it comes into contact with. Again, poul¬ 
try manure is generally mixed with ashes in 
varying quantities, which fact renders it 
quite unsuitable for top-dressing Vine borders 
with, particularly when applied to a depth 
of 6 inches. Independent of this, a quantity 
of material containing such a large percent¬ 
age of stimulants over and above what may 
safely be employed for Vines, the very fact 
of such a body of ashes lying on the border 
surface, choking lip tho air passages in the 
soil, and preventing both solar warmth and 
rain from exerting their due influence on tho 
roots and border, is detrimental in the ex¬ 
treme. This kind of manure is all very well 
if, after having lain for some months In a 
heap, it is spread on the ground and dug in 
for vegetable crops, and it also answers for 
hardy fruit-trees if used with discretion. 
The first thing to be done under the circum¬ 
stances is to immediately remove tho ashes. 
Then, as soon as open weather prevails, 
prick up or loosen the surface of the border 
with a steel fork, and remove the soil until 
live and sound roots are found. Then top- 
dress or make good the deficiency with some 
good turfy loam, to which add some lime 
rubbish and a certain proportion of a pro¬ 
perly compounded Vine manure. Make this 
quite firm over the roots, and until the. month 
of March is out, keep the surface covered 
with about a foot of long, dry stable litter. 
It would also be advisable to enlarge the 
border by adding another portion—from 
2 feet to 3 feet in width. Use good, sound 
loam for this purpose, and for manure add 
what is termed Vine border compound, which 
contains all that is necessary for the present 
and future needs of the Vine. Both this and 
the foregoing manure are compounded and 
sold by various horticultural sijndriesmen, 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 














668 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


February 15 , 1908 


as you will see on referring to our adver¬ 
tising columns. The great thing is to use 
the manures as directed by the vendors (in¬ 
structions on this head being invariably sent 
to all purchasers), and not to exceed the 
quantities named. This coming season do 
not start the Vine into growth any earlier 
than you are compelled; crop as lightly as 
you can, and encourage as free a growth, 
without undue crowding, as trellis space will 
allow, which will induce the Vine to make 
an abundance of new roots. With this and 
careful attention to ventilating, damping, 
and closing the house in the afternoon early 
enough to ensure a temperature of 85 degs. 
to 90 degs., until the Grapes begin to colour, 
you will be enabled to partly restore the Vine 
to health again ; but it will require another 
season’s careful management before you can 
do so effectually. Regarding the scale in¬ 
sect, you can soon effect a clearance of this 


| PRUNING STANDARD APPLE TREES. 

In continuation of the remarks of “X. Y.,” 
in our issue of December 21st, page 559, 
about the brutal and most ignorant ways of 
“pruning” so often seen in gardens, we 
now beg to offer an illustration of a young 
I tree which is not treated in this way. In- 
I stead of suppressing their young energies by 
cutting back, it will be seen that the leading 
shoots are allowed to grow. This tree, 
though planted a couple of years, was well 
' formed to start with. Young trees are most 
often subjected to the cutting back process we 
deplore, and here it will be seen that although 
a young tree, there is no need to cut it 
back. The reason why the common way of 
cutting back everything is bad is that wc 
throw all the energies of the tree into mak¬ 
ing coarse, watery growths, instead of allow¬ 
ing the tree to form its fruiting wood. 


the pruning of the garden tree, whatever its 
form, standard-grown trees are often ne¬ 
glected. When young, it is quite as important 
to thin the head of a standard tree as it is that 
of the bush or pyramid. Standards need not, 
of course, be pruned on the 6ame lines as 
bushes or pyramids, but they need at least that 
a careful thinning be done once a year, until a 
good and well formed head is obtained. Some 
sorts suffer, if allowed to go unattended, as 
there is often so much spray formed, which 
prevents the leaves and fruit enjoying the 
maximum of light and air. Perhaps the best 
implement with which to carry out this 
much-needed reform is the standard tree 
pruner. An investment in one or more of 
these implements is more than repaid where 
there are young orchard-trees just coming into 
bearing. * Standard tree pruners are not by 
any means expensive, and with their gradu¬ 
ated lengths of handle one may reach into 
fairly lofty-headed trees. Time is required to 
become expert in the thinning of branches, 
and there is no comparison in trees that are 
given this annual winter treatment with those 
severely left alone. The diverse habit of 
trees must be taken into consideration, for 
while some have rigid, upright growth, others 
have the opposite habit. The popular Cox’s 
Orange Pippin Apple needs a good deal of 
help, in order to keep the head well open, as 
there is such a wealth of small spray. To pre¬ 
vent this, the main branches should be kept 
thinned out in winter, as well as spurring 
back useless spray. New'ton Wonder has an 
upright habit, of growth, simplifying the 
course of pruning materially. Plums, Dam¬ 
sons, and Pears are inclined similarly towards 
overcrowding. Only in few instances will it 
be necessary to shorten the main leaders, for 
usually these are best left unstopped in all 
standard-grown trees. W est Wilts. 


Treatment of Vines. Peaches, and Nec¬ 
tarines.—1 have an unhealed orchard-house, winch 
i* filled with Peach and Nectarine-trees in pots 
plunged ill the borders; also a vinery (heated), in 
which are Gros Maroc, Black Alicante, Foster s .Seed¬ 
ling, and Muscat of Alexandria Vines. I want to have 
the Grapes as late us possible, and should like to 
know if it will do to allow the rods to break natur¬ 
ally and then close down the ventilators? Should the 
Peach-house and vinery be treated as for forced 
houses, with regard to temperature, etc.?-GEMS. 

[You may with safety defer closing your 
vincrv until the second week in March ; and 
if you live in a warm part of the country one 
w^eek later than this. Had it not been for 
the Muscats you might, have allowed the 
house to remain open till the first week in 
April. By closing at the time wc suggest you 
should he able to get the Muscats properly 
finished by mid-October, and in a condition 
to enable them to hang and keep well till the 
end of the year. The other varieties named 
will finish without the slightest difficulty be¬ 
tween mid-March and the end of September. 
The chief thing to observe in regard to the re¬ 
tarding of Grape Vines is to subject the rods 
to all the air you can possibly afford them. 
IF they exhibit signs of breaking, and are 
likely "to get in too forw ard a condition be¬ 
fore the time arrives for closing the house, 
you can still further retard growth by tying 
I the rods close together near to the lower part 
of the roof, and shading them with mats from 
the influence of sunshine. Even if they do 
break, they will take no harm, provided you 
take the precaution to close the house and 
employ just sufficient artificial heat to keep 
the temperature about 40 degs. when frost ap¬ 
pears imminent, so long as you fully venti¬ 
late in the daytime. We have proved that 
Vines may be safely subjected to this kind of 
treatment until the young growths are about 
3 inches in length. ‘ After this it is best to 
close the house, and once this takes place 
submit them to the usual treatment, ns re¬ 
gards temperatures and other cultural de¬ 
tails, and in accordance with their condi¬ 
tion of growth. With respect to your un¬ 
heated orchard-house, we should not advise 
you to maintain forcing temperatures, which, 
after all, you could obtain by means of solar 
heat, and would, therefore, be of an inter¬ 
mittent nature. After the fruits have stoned 
you may then avail yourself of sun-heat, 
should you wish to hasten the ripening by 
closing early enough in the afternoon to run 
I the mercury up to 80 degs., but avoid a high 
I temperature ip the earlier stages of growth.] 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



by employing Gishurst compound, which use 
as directed in the instructions given with it.] 

Birds and fruit-buds. I am distressed at 
reading “Y. M.’s ” letter on “Birds and 
Fruit-Buds ” in your issue for February 1st. 
1 have always loved my birds, and I have al¬ 
ways loved my fruit. I believe the one 
effectual cure is to feed the birds, and I have 
converted two gardeners to this opinion. The 
tom-tits are, of course, the worst offenders, 
and are, probably, short of food at this time 
of year, when insect life is low. A few Cocoa- 
nuts hung about the garden will save the 
fruit-buds and add to the charm of the gar¬ 
den, for the tits are bad to beat in colouring 
and gracefulness. The tits ate twelve Cocoa- 
nuts in my Devonshire garden last year, and 
the fruit-buds were uninjured. I saw a 
little bit off each end of the Cocoanut and 
puss a string through. Sawing in half is not 
a good plan, for th^hwlf-nut simpty becomes 
a receptacle for ri 


tha^tmlf-nut simply be< 

tbm •gie 


i The young tree we figure has not been 
I pruned, or has been very little pruned, and 
! that confined to removing any gross growths. 
Where older trees than these are hacked back, 
as they often are, the result is still worse, 
because the older the tree the more we should 
encourage it to make fruit-buds. Pruning, a6 
applied to trees of those great races from 
which in Europe we get most of our fruit— 

I i.e., the great natural order to which Plum, 

I Cherry, Apple, and Pear belong—should be 
confined to thinning the shoots. The natural 
! habit of the tree is to form a dense, bushy 
head, with so many branchlets that any fruit 
borne thereon is small, as we see in the 
I wild Apple and wild Pear, but by carefully 
i thinning the shoots and always preserving 
the leading growths we confine the energies 
of the tree to the production of a less num¬ 
ber of fine fruit, and the gentle thinning 
thus applied never throws the tree into rank 
growth, such as is produced by hacking hack. 

-Though so much attention is paid to 



February 15, 1908 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


(569 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

ORCHIDS. 


VANDA KIMBALLIANA. 

It is now about twenty years since this lovely 
species was introduced into this country by 
Messrs. Low and Co., of Enfield, and when 
it was exhibited by them and Sir Trevor 
Lawrence at tlie Royal Horticultural Society 
on August 13th. 1889, a first class certificate 
was unanimously aw aisled by the Orchid 
Committee. Since that time the cultivation 
of V. Kimballiana has become better under¬ 
stood, ami the delicate, arching spikes of 


plant should be placed in a position where 
a considerable amount of sunlight can be 
obtained, but where a mixed collection of 
Orchids is grown in such a temperature as 
this house affords, some difficulty will always 
be found in arranging the plants according 
to their requirements. Yet with a little in¬ 
genuity, a great deal may be done without 
interfering with the well-being of other 
plants. If it is found to be inconvenient or 
impossible to select a suitable position upon 
the stage with other plants, this species may 
then be suspended well up to the roof-glass 
in the lightest position available. It de¬ 
lights in plenty of sunshine, but to enable it 
to withstand its effects under the roof-glass, 
and prevent scorching of the leaves, a move- 



Vanda Kimballiana. From a photograph in Sir Trevor Lawrence’s garden at 
Burford Lodge, Dorking. 


bloom are always sought after where cut 
Orchid flowers are required for bouquets, 
the dining-table, or other room decorations. 
The flowers are each about an inch in dia¬ 
meter, the sepals and petals white, some¬ 
times flushed with pale purple, the lip about 
an inch long, in colour amethyst-purple. 
The native habitat of V. Kimballiana is on 
the hills in the Southern -Shan States, at 
4,000 feet to 5,000 feet elevation, where it is 
found growing mostly on rocks, and some¬ 
times on trees ; therefore, at such an altitude 
it is, naturally, a comparatively cool-growing 
Orchid, and those growers who have not been 
satisfied with their success under warm 
treatment should at place theii plants 

in a cool part of the iAtermfccftrte iiJup^The 


j ment in the air surrounding it is necessary, 
and this is best effected by hanging the 
plant near to a ventilator, and opening it 
gradually when scorching is feared. 

Under our artificial cultivation, a drying 
warmth is always detrimental to Vandas; 
it causes weak grow th and general unhealthi- 
nccs. Where the plant can be grown down 
upon the ordinary stage, there is no diffi¬ 
culty in affording the proper amount of at¬ 
mospheric moisture ; but with a plant hang¬ 
ing on the roof it is different. Therefore, 
when in this elevated position, it will re¬ 
quire more attention. The roots, also around 
the sides of the receptacle in which it is 
planted, should be lightly sprayed over 
several times every day, especially during the 


spring and summer months. At other sea¬ 
sons, when there is less ventilation afforded, 
the moist atmosphere of the house is suffi¬ 
cient to keep the plant healthy, but mode¬ 
rate root waterings must be afforded when¬ 
ever the potting materials become dry. Bas¬ 
kets are to be preferred to pots, as the roots 
like to ramble about in the air, and some of 
them frequently attach themselves very firmly 
to the sides of the woodwork. Teak-wood 
baskets are the most durable, and they 
should be made rather shallow', placing a few 
large pieces of crocks over the openings at 
the bottom, and potting the plant rather 
firmly in chopped, freshly-gathered Sphag¬ 
num Moss, mixing some moderately-sized 
pieces of crocks with it, so as to increase the 
drainage. After root disturbance, and until 
the plant becomes re-established, very care¬ 
ful watering is necessary. The fine sprayer 
is the most suitable for affording water 
during that period, as there is less likelihood 
of the Moss becoming saturated as when tho 
ordinary watering-pot is used. 

NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Cypripediiun Spicerianum — I have a Cypri* 
pedimn Spicerianum in my greenhouse along with 
other Cypripediuni8, such as cardinalc, Leeanum, 
Lawrcnceanum, and other Orchids, which arc doing 
w r ell in «a temperature of from 60 degs. to 65 degs. C. 
Spicerianum 1 cannot manage at all. I potted the 
plant two seasons ago in fibrous turf, Sphagnum 
Moss, and fibrous Orchid peat, half filling the Orchid 
pot with crocks, using sand and charcoal. I never 
watered the plant, only when it was dry, same as I 
do the other plants. When it makes one growth, tho 
older growth dies away. I did not overpot the plant. 
Kindly tell me the treatment of this Orchid?—H enry 
Kino. 

[Your general treatment—viz., watering, 
potting material, etc. are quite consistent 
with the usual methods of growing these 
plants. As C. Spicerianum comes from a 
rather high elevation in Assam, we should 
think the temperature of your house is rather 
too warm, especially during the winter 
months, a range of from 50 degs. to 60 degs. 
being quite sufficient. Place the plant in the 
coolest part of the house, and keep it well 
shaded from all sunshine, and. when it re¬ 
quires repotting, as it probably will do at 
this season, we would advise you to omit the 
sand and charcoal, using small, broken 
crocks in preference.] 


CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

CHRYSANTHEMUMS FOR DECORA¬ 
TION. 

Before making a selection of Chrysanthe¬ 
mums suitable for this purpose it will be well 
to lay down a few simple rules of culture for 
the guidance of the inexperienced. The ques¬ 
tion of stopping and timing different varieties 
on certain dates gives the grower of 6iich 
plants little or no concern. The plants have 
to be pinched or stopped, but this is done to 
induce them to make a bushy form of growth. 
February is an excellent time in which to 
commence the propagation of the decorative 
Chrysanthemums, as there is at this time a 
plentiful supply of cuttings. The days, too, 
are lengthening, in consequence of which the 
growths developing at the crown of the old 
stools become more healthy, and propagation 
can be carried out more successfully. Short- 
jointed growths of recent development should 
be selected, and if these can be detached 
from plants that have been kept in a cool- 
house for some time they will soon root. 
Cuttings 2\ inches to 3 inches in length aro 
quite long enough. A good compost is a mix¬ 
ture of loam and leaf-mould in equal parts. 
The loam should be light and fibrous, and 
the leaf-mould well decomposed. Put these 
two soils through a sieve with £-inck niesli, 
and mix them thoroughly with an eighth 
part of coarse silver sand. Prepare the com 
post a few days before it is required. 

Should the grower’s requirements be small, 
he may insert the cuttings in rows in boxes, 
confining each row to one variety, or, if more 
convenient, a number of small pots-^say, 
those measuring 3 inches in diameter (sixties) 
—may lye used, the cuttings being inserted 
around the inside edge of these. Each pot 
should contain one variety only, to avoid 
mistakes. In this way a -dozen pots filled 







G70 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED ,, 


February 15, 1908 


with cuttings, and each pot representing one 
variety, should provide a beautiful selection 
of plants and a goodly number of each 
variety. Where the demand is heavier, a 
number of shallow boxes may be utilised, and 
a half or whole box with cuttings of each 
kind. A still more simple method is that of 
making up a cutting-bed on the greenhouse 
bench, using a compost similar to that al¬ 
ready described. The soil, to the depth of 
3 inches to 4 inches, should be spread over 
a layer of crocks and the rougher siftings of 
the compost. The surface should besprinkled 
with coarse silver sand, so that as the cut¬ 
tings are inserted a portion of silver 6and 
will be carried down into the bottom of the 
hole. To keep the soil in position pieces of 
quartering of suitable size should be fixed 
all round the cutting-bed, or slate battens 
may be nailed together and used for the 
same purpose. When inserting the cuttings, 
embed them 1 inch to 1J inches deep, press 
ing the soil firmly at the base of each one, 
and seeing that the cutting rests on the soil 
in the bottom of the hole. As the cuttings 
are taken off they should be placed in small 
pots, labelled, and slightly sprinkled over¬ 
head to keep them fresh. Readers should 
devote their attention to other types of the 
flower than the Japanese. Singles, Pompons, 
Anemone-flowered (both large-flowered and 
Pompons), as well as some of the more free- 
flowering incurved and spidery kinds, deserve 
consideration. The cuttings should be 
watered in through a fine-rosed can, and un¬ 
til they have rooted the boxes, pots, and 
cutting-bed should be examined repeatedly, 
and the soil kept just moist. Under no cir¬ 
cumstances must the soil be allowed to be¬ 
come sour, or the cuttings will fail to root. 
When nicely rooted the young plants should 
be potted up singly into deep “ thumb ’’-pots, 
or three smaller plants placed equi distant in 
a pot 3£ inches in diameter, to be potted up 
subsequently whole. When the plants are 
6 inches in height, pinch out the point of 
each one to induce lateral shoots to develop. 
Those may be pinched in turn when 6 inches 
long, and all subsequent growths treated in 
like fashion. The final pinching should be 
done during the last week in June, from 
which point the growths should be grown on 
to the terminal buds, which mark the termi¬ 
nation of the plant’s growth. Single plants 
may be finally repotted into 8-inch or 9-inch 
pots, and, in the case of those that have been 
grown on three in a pot, pots 10 inches in 
diameter will answer very well. The follow¬ 
ing is a good selection of suitable varieties 
in the various classes : — 

Japanese. —Ivory, free-flowering, white, 
dwarf, November; Kathleen Thompson, 
chestnut and gold, good habit, October-No- 
veinber; Caprice du Printemps, rosy- 
amaranth, good habit, October-Novembcr; 
Soleil d’Octobre, pale yellow, of easy culture, 
October-November; Bronze Soleil d’Oc¬ 
tobre, lovely bronzy-fawn sport from the last- 
named ; 1 Jazzier, brilliant crimson-scarlet, 

late October and November; Source d’Or, 
orange terra-cotta, good habit, November; 
Lizzie Adcock, bright rich yellow sport from 
the last-named ; Nagoya, golden-yellow, De¬ 
cember; Mrs. Greenfield, rich yellow, No¬ 
vember ; Winter Cheer, bright rosy-carmine, 
December; Franifield Pink, soft rose-pink, 
December; Market Red, bright metallic-red, 
October-November; Money Maker, pure 
white. Noveinber-Deccmber ; Viviand Morel, 
silvery-mauve-pink, November; Mine. Paolo 
Radaelli, rose-tinted white, Deceml>er ; Mme. 
G. Rivol, yellow-ochre and rose sport from 
the last-named ; and Mme. Gabrielle Debrie, 
soft flesh-pink, November. 

Incurved. —Mrs. Geo. Rundle, pure white ; 
Mr. George Glennv, primrose; and Mrs. 
Dixon (syn. Golden George Glenny), rich yel¬ 
low. This trio belongs to one family, and 
gives blooms of exquisite form ; November. 
Snowdrift, pure white; and Mrs. F. Judson, 
also pure white, are two beautiful December 
kinds. 

Japanese Anemones. —W. W. Astor, 
blush shaded rose, yellow disc ; Mine. Law- 
ton, white and rose, yellow disc; Marsia 
Jones, pure white; Queen Elizabeth, silvery- 
blush and rose, yellow^disc; Sir .Walter 
Raleigh^ pale blush ; And /Bynt r^w Jo^'or- 


giots, creamy-white, edged pale rose, sport 
from W. W. Astor. All Novomber-flow’ering. 

Large Anemones. —Mme. Robt. Owen, 
pure white; Mrs. Catert'r, pure white; Des¬ 
cartes, crimson-red, tipped gold ; and Gluck, 
golden-yellow. All November flowering." 

Reflexed. — Cullingfordi, brilliant crim¬ 
son, golden reverse, December; Golden 
Elsie, free flowering, rich golden-yellow 
flower, November. 

Pompons. —President, dark rosy-purple ; 
William Sabey, rich yellow : William West- 
lake, pure yellow ; Mdlle. Elsie Dordan, soft 
purplish-rose ; Osiris, pule rosy-purple, 
tipped salmon ; and William Kennedy, pur¬ 
plish-violet. 

Pompon Anemones. —Marie Stuart, lilac 
and sulphur yellow ; Emily Row bottom, 
creamy-white sport from the first-named; 
Antonius, rich yellow ; Gem of Earlswood, 
rosy-blush and citron ; Calliope, ruby-red; 
and Hon. Mrs. Cubitt, light buff. 

Small-flowered singles. —Mary Ander¬ 
son, white, suffused rose ; Miss Annie 
Holden, straw-yellow sport from first-named ; 
Miss Jessie Dean, soft rose and white; 
Emily Wells, clear pink, beautiful under 
artificial light; Babs White, rosy pink and 
white ; Nora, soft pink and white ; Mrs. J. 
Ferguson, pink sport from Marv Anderson ; 
Paris Daisy, pure white, with yellow disc; 
and Treasure, bright yellow, small, late. 

Large - flowered singles. — Franifield 
Beauty, rich velvety-crimson, late; Edith 
Pagram, rose-pink; Bronze Edith Pagram, 
bright reddish-bronze sport from the last- 
named ; Gladys Hemsley, pink ; Miss Irene 
Cragg, pure white, of lovely form ; Purity, 
pure white ; Sir George Bullough, deep yel¬ 
low ; Miss H. Hampson, pure white; Earls¬ 
wood Beauty, primrose, with green eye; 
Marv Richardson, reddish-salmon; Nora 
Davies, reddish terra-cotta ; and Mrs. Baillie, 
chestnut, of medium size. E. G. 

INDOOR PLANT& 

RICH ARD1A jSSTHIOPICA DISEASED. 
From the remarks of "Devonian/’ at 
page 578, on the above, it is by no means 
certain from what disea.se the plants are at 
present suffering, though it is highly prob¬ 
able, I think, that it is an instance of mite- 
infested cornis. Tliis, of course, could only 
bo decided after microscopical examination 
of the diseased cornis. Why does not 
“Devonian” send a complete plant to the 
scientific committee of tlie Royal Horticul¬ 
tural Society, or a similar example to the 
editor, so that the matter might receive the 
fullest investigations? Had I unhealthy plants 
as “Devonian,” I should not hesitate when 
the plants next July had been dried off to 
the crown to prepare a mixture of paraffin 
and soft soap, the latter first dissolved in 
hot water, and plunge the whole of the 
cornis into a tub for a few hours, to be fol¬ 
lowed by a sulphur and soft soap bath in 
solution for not less than forty-eight hours. 
At the end of this period wash the cornis in 
clear water, and dry them well in full sun. 
Alternative remedies are Tobacco-water or 
nicotieide, to be followed by the rinsing and 
drying as above. 

Many years ago I had a very poor lot of 
Richardias from the Channel Islands, and 
before I could succeed with them drastic 
measures had to be adopted. Subsequently, 
however, these same plants wore much ad¬ 
mired for their great vigour and the fineness 
of their abundantly' produced spat lies. Arti¬ 
ficial manures were never used, and, in my 
experience, these plants do not require it. 
A generous mixture of soil strong loam or 
light leaf-mould, about one-fourth of finely- 
sifted and very old manure, with very firm 
potting annually early in August or not 
later than about the middle of that month, 
will suit the plants. To the question : 
“Do we give too much in the way of 
manure?” an answer is .not easily given. 
For many years I have held that the system 
of pulling these plants to pieces and putting 
them out in trenches of heavily-manured 
soil at the time they have finished their 
flowering and require a rest, is wrong. Yet 
this is done in many places to-day, ns of old, 


not because those who do it think the mattei 
out for themselves, but because that has been 
the generally-followed practice. Another 
question by “Devonian” is: “Do we roast 
them too much after flowering?” That, I 
think, must depend upon the “roasting,” and 
is, perhaps, of a doubtful quality'. But I can 
assure “Devonian” that these Richardias 
may be dried each year practically to the 
soil-level of the pots with decided advantage, 
and, rightly' treated subsequently, a much 
earlier flowering than is possible by any other 
means is ensured. My practice when the 
plants may have either completed their 
flowering or do not longer pay for their room 
in the houses has been to transfer them to a 
deep brick pit facing north, and there give 
them a sort of probationary period by gradu¬ 
ally withholding water for a time prior to the 
final drying off. The “roasting” in my case 
consists of first withholding water altogether, 
and presently stacking the plants, pots and 
all, in a heap on their sides either in the 
open or against a wall, so that for some 
weeks no water reaches the roots at all. 
Thus it will be seen that the resting period 
is brought about gradually. During these 
weeks of rest no water is given. When the 
time comes to re-start them the pots are first 
stood out on an open ash-bed, to receive any 
rain that falls, or the plants may be given 
a watering to first moisten the soil before the 
repotting is begun. The plants are shaken 
clean out of the old soil and potted as before. 
Given this treatment, the plants are ready 
for housing in the early days of September, 
and within a month the earliest spatlies may 
be had, if desired. If there is no demand — 
as is quite possible in private gardens—for 
these early spathea, a later potting and hous¬ 
ing will, as a rule, meet the ease. By this 
method of pot cultivation the plants are 
potted each year when the root-fibres are 
comparatively inactive. Hence the work can 
be performed with a minimum of loss. It is 
not quite the same when the plants have 
been excited into growth in richly-manured 
trenches in the open, and then potted. 

“Dorset,” page 620, speaks of resting these 
plants in a “natural way.” In their native 
habitats the plants are flooded at one season, 
and with the floods receding from them at 
another season sun-dried to the earth, pre¬ 
senting at the latter period much the same 
aspect as those plants permanently grown in 
pots and rested after their season’s work in 
the manner I have described. Plante in 
their wild state adapt themselves very much 
to circumstances. In gardening, the know¬ 
ledge of the condition to which the plants 
submit is useful enough as showing possibili¬ 
ties ; at the same time, we neither immerse 
our plants during their season of growth any 
more than it is possible for dwellers in 
Britain to apply the fierce rays of the sun 
to which these plants are exposed in their 
native haunts, and which, in their turn, dry 
them to the earth. Yet it is interesting to 
know’ that the spathes produced by intelli¬ 
gent cultivation in this country are greatly 
superior in quality to those produced by the 
plants at home. E. II. Jenkins. 


CALCEOLARIA BURBIDGEI. 

The note by “T.,” on page Gd3. does not in 
the least overpraise this much-esteemed win¬ 
ter-flowering plant. There is quite a novel 
aspect imparted to the greenhouse by its pre¬ 
sence during the dull months of the year, and 
especially is this noticeable when arranged 
amongst other plants with flowers of con¬ 
trasting colour. The soft yellow of the free 
and open sprays is most effective in small 
vases for room adornment. The length of 
time it continues in bloom is not one of the 
least of its merits. The wonder is that such a 
length of time has elapsed ere it dawned on 
flower lovers to ascertain for themselves with 
what certainty its pleasing, soft yellow sprays 
come in winter without much trouble. In 
some seasons I have heard of difficulty in 
striking the cuttings, but if these are secured 
in the month of April it will be found that in 
a close propagating-framo these root easily in 
a sweet, sandy compost. I have not employed 
it for the flower garden yet, but have no doubt 
that twovear-old, and older, plants, plunged 
in the beds i'i their pots, would provide a 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



FoinuAJiY 15, 1908 


GARDENING ILL USTRATED. 


671 



succession of bloom. The variety was raised 
by the late Mr. F. W. Burbidge, of the Dublin 
Botanic Gardens, and will fittingly perpetuate 
his name. I have not found the plant at all 
fastidious as to soil and temperature. 

_W. S. 

LUCULIAS. 

This is one of the handsomest of greenhouse 
flowering shrubs, as fragrant as Honey¬ 
suckle. and not by any means difficult to 
cultivate. Yet it is still a rare plant in gar¬ 
dens. Possibly its scarcity is owing to the 
fact that it rarely succeeds when grown in a 
pot, even although it be allowed plenty of 
root room, and also to its shy flowering 
nature, except when large. We have seen 
plants of it in English gardens 10 feet high 
and bearing over one hundred large heads of 
beautiful pink blossoms in December; but 
they have invariably been planted out in a 


L. gratissima forms a lco.se spreading 
shrub. The flowers are in terminal corymbs, 
each about 8 inches in diameter, and each 
flower is formed of a tube an inch long, with 
a flat limb of five lobss measuring 1£ inches 
across, and coloured soft pink. The flowers 
do not remain fresh more than a day or so 
if cut and placed in water, but on the plant 
they make a display for several weeks. 

L. Pinceana. —This, which was raised by 
Mr. Pince, of Exeter, from seed received 
from India, has smaller, narrower, more 
strongly nerved and leathery leaves than L. 
gratissima, and larger flowers, slightly paid- 
in colour. This species flowers later, gener¬ 
ally during January or February. It is not 
quite so good a garden plant as L. gratissima, 
but at the same time it is decidedly worthy 
of a place in every conservatory where 
winter-flowering shrubs are a desideratum, 
Both 6pccies are propagated by means of cut¬ 


commended, but it must be borne in mind 
that when Camellias are making their growth 
they delight in a fair amount of w-armth, with 
I plenty of moisture. If the Luculia is given 
I such a house it should be placed in a posi- 
i tion where not liable to suffer from sharp 
! currents of air, nor should it be too much 
i exposed to the sun’s rays during the middle 
of the day. A conservatory wherein the 
majority of the plants are growing in beds 
rather than in pots or tubs will be an excel¬ 
lent place for it. If a space of wall has to 
be covered where it is possible to plant the 
Luculia out without the opposite extreme of 
too much soil, there it may be grown with 
every prospect of success. It is more adapted 
for growing in beds and borders than in pots, 
yet, as indicated in a previous sentence, the 
opposite extreme must be avoided, otherwise 
there will be a tendency to make rank wood, 
which will be unproductive of bloom. As re¬ 
gards soil, it does better in 
peat than in loam. Light 
loam would suit, but any 
tendency to a heavy, reten¬ 
tive soil should be avoided 
at all times. Light fibrous 
loam and peat of good dur¬ 
able character in about equal 
parts, with the addition of 
coarse silver or river sand, 
would make a capital mix¬ 
ture for it; lime rubble and 
charcoal would likewise be 
good additions. The pruning 
should be seen to after 
flowering. It thrives well 
when pruned rather hard, 
but I would prefer a more 
moderate course. Before 
pruning it is a safe plan to 
let the plant get dry at the 
root, to prevent exhaustion 
by bleeding. The stronger 
shoots should he stopped so 
as to regulate the growth be¬ 
fore they become too much 
advanced.—P. 


Luculia gratisaiina. From a photograph in Messrs. Veitch’s nursery at Feltham. 


well-drained bed of rich light soil, and ox- j 
posed to full sunshine in a well-aired green- i 
house. In a bed of cold soil the plants will ( 
grow freely, but the flower-buds fall off. 

To succeed with the Luculia it is essential ! 
that the bed should be well drained, and 
contain about 2 feet in depth of good soil — 
say, tw’o parts of loam to one of peat, with 
an abundance of silver sand. The position 
of the bed should be such that plenty of sun¬ 
shine and air in summer and a moderately 
dry atmosphere in winter can be afforded. 
The plant requires plenty of water in sum¬ 
mer and autumn, none whatever in winter. 
The flowers are developed in December on 
the ends of the new shoots. After they fade 1 
the plant must be well pruned, removing all | 
the new growth except about 2 inches of 
every 6hoot. Tn April or May the new growth 
pushes, and this is the time for liberal syring¬ 
ing and watering at the roots. The house 
best suited for Luculbw*>is such as if gener 
ally prgvi.d^d for Camellia* yul ^zd.-as* 


tings of the half-grown shoots. Seeds of 
them are sometimes obtainable from India. 

W. 

The extent to which the cultivation of 
this handsome flowering shrub lias attained 
since its introduction would lead one to the 
conclusion that it does not merit any parti¬ 
cular notice, by the very few really goed 
plants that are to be seen in gardens. Such, 
however, is far from being the case, for wher¬ 
ever the culture of teinperatc-house plants is 
attempted, there the Luculia should find a 
congenial home. It may be grown in a 
greenhouse which accommodates the majority 
of plants coming under that designation, but 
it is not so much at home in such a house. 
A house which is suited to Camellias, and 
where the surroundings are such as to be 
conducive to a healthy and vigorous growth 
in the case of these plants, is also calculated 
to suit the Luculia remarkably well. This 
may, to some, 6cem strange when a tem¬ 
perate-house has been more pnrticuarly re- 


AMER1CAN 
TREE-CARNATIONS. 

I have bought twelve American 
Tree-Carnations. I should bo 
much obliged if you would give 
me a little advice how to treat 
them, and how and when to in¬ 
crease them for another year? I 
can keep up a temperature of 
(V) <legs. by night.— B. JL, Uol- 
bench. 

[When one remembers the 
great strides that have been 
made during recent years 
one cannot but think that 
British raisers of the Carna¬ 
tion have moved very slowly, 
if at all, in their endeavours 
to improve this useful group 
of winter-flowering plants. 
Years ago an essential item, 
from the British growler’s 
point of view, was that a 
variety should be free-flower¬ 
ing. Such an idea to-day, 
and so far as it concerns the 
now type, can only be re¬ 
garded as non-existent, since 
a large number of the American-raised varie¬ 
ties are not free flowering, and must be grown 
on the system of one stem, one flower. Treated 
on similar lines, it is not unreasonable to 
assume that not a few of the Carnations 
grown in this country during the past few 
decades would have made a far better dis¬ 
play had the plants been grown in sufficient 
numbers and given the same treatment. It 
is curious, too, that while the Chrysanthe¬ 
mum held supreme sway in the exhibition 
arena, by reason of severe disbudding, no 
one thought of applying the principle to the 
winter flowering Carnation, to thereby ren¬ 
der it more useful in floral decorations. This 
lesson had to be taught us by our American 
friends, and it lias given a great impetus to 
Carnation-growing. It is little wonder that 
the amateur and others are taking up the 
cultivation of the flower in earnest, and be- 
| fore long it will not Me surprising if these 
| American Carnations prove to be more_popil¬ 
lar than the Chrysanthemum for winter 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 












672 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


February 15, 1908 


work. The value of these Carnations for 
winter flowering depends not a little upon 
the production of their large and usually 
handsome flowers on long 6tems. It will also 
depend upon the kind of decoration for 
which the flowers are intended whether 
12 inches or 24 inches of stem be employed, 
and 1 see no merit whatever in an excess of 
inches if 60 many feet of fine wire are re¬ 
garded as a necessary accompaniment to re¬ 
tain the flower-head in a presentable condi¬ 
tion. Our American friends tell of 3-feet 
long stems to some of these Carnations, and 
on a plant growing at ground-level such a 
length of stem would permit of the flower 
being seen to advantage, and to a disadvan¬ 
tage if cut at full length and arranged in a 
3-feet high vase on a 3-feet high table. Al¬ 
ready there are several distinct types of 
stems- the perfectly rigid steins of the 
“Lawson” type, usually not more than 
If) inches long, and often less, as grown in 
this country; the taller Enchantress, whose 
gracefully-arched stem in the upper portion 
presents the flower-head to good view from 
the decorator’s standpoint; while a third set, 
as Floriana, Ethel Ward, etc., with stems 
much too flexible, require support to display 
them to advantage. In cultivation, and when 
grown under glass more or less continuously, 
this last type may be strengthened some¬ 
what by giving the plants abundance of room 
and by a free circulation of air above. 

Intending growers of these Carnations 
should procure young plants during the first 
three months of the year. The young plants 
should lx; well established in pots 3 inches 
across, ready early in April to be transferred 
to pots 5 inches across. The young plants 
should be of a full green to the base, the steins 
of a fleshy nature, as opposed to that starved 
type of so-called young plant whose stem at 
the ground-line and an inch or so above pre¬ 
sents a woody and brown appearance. Such 
a stem, constricted as it is, in the case of a 
Carnation, acts as a sort of thrortle-vnlve to 
the sap-in garden parlance, it is “hide¬ 
bound,” and incapable of full development— 
and the plant cannot make good progress. 
Such a condition is due, in part, to the select¬ 
ing of unsuitable cuttings, and it is also 
caused by unnecessary delay in potting after 
the cuttings are rooted. At a later 6tage 
precisely the same condition may be brought 
about by starving the young plants in 3-inch 
pots at a time when they should be in pots 
nearly twice as large. The Carnation is a 
soft-wooded subject, and, as such, it is 
essential that it be kept steadily growing. 
Any check, whether due to want of root 
moisture, food supplies, or lack of space to 
develop, cannot be effaced when later on the 
plant should be in good bloom. 

The above remarks apply chiefly to those 
instances where the young plants have been 
purchased in pots, but there may be some 
who, having purchased flowering plants at 
the end of the year, may desire to raise stock 
for themselves. It is not possible to make 
too early a start, and for this purpose the 
mouth of January is excellent for inserting 
the “slips” or **cuttings.” which must be of 
recent growth, fresh, young, and firm, and 
not less than 3 inches or 4 inches in length 
when made. The most valuable cuttings are 
the young shoots that spring from the sides 
of the sterns, the much softer tops being 
usually too sappy for the purpose. A cutting 
when detached from the parent plant is pre¬ 
pared for insertion by removing the lowest 
pair of leaves with finger and thumb, pulling 
them away by a sharp downward movement, 
finally making a clean transverse cut with a 
sharp knife immediately below the joint. By 
first, pulling away the leaves and finally mak¬ 
ing the cut in systematic order little risk is 
run. In the case of cuttings of a very leafy 
nature at the base, it may be necessary to 
remove two pairs of leaves, or even more. 

Soil for the cuttings. —As a matter of 
fact, not much 6oil is required, the cuttings 
rooting perfectly in pure sand. The Ameri¬ 
can and many British cultivators root the 
whole of their supplies in sand beds of about 
2 inches or 3 inches in depth. The beginner 
who requires but a few plants will find a box 
or pan 3 inches deep tilled with pure and 
clean well cashed river sand a capital medium 

Digitized by >qIC 


for the cuttings. A well-drained box, 
4 inches deep, 12 inches wide, 18 inches long, 
may have 1 inch of soil at the bottom of the 
box, with 3 inches of sand above, the whole 
to be made quite firm. If that size of box 
cannot be accommodated on any available 
bottom-heat bed, make one that will answer 
with a companion box deep enough and large 
enough to take the cutting-box, so that the 
cuttings may be covered over by a sheet of 
glass. When the cuttings are inserted, tho¬ 
roughly soak the sand with water, so that it 
is settled about the cuttings. It should also 
be borne in mind that cuttings of these Car¬ 
nations in sand require much larger supplies 
of moisture than if inserted in any admixture 
of soil and sand, and upon no account should 
driblets of water bo given. The cuttings at 
this season of the year should be stood as 
near the light os possible. A moderate bot¬ 
tom-heat—say, of 60 degs.—is very suitable, 
and, given this, good healthy cuttings will 
root in about three weeks or thereabouts. If 
no bottom-heat is available, the cutting-box 
should be placed in an ordinary greenhouse 
where a temperature of 50 degs. or 55 degs. 
is maintained, and, treated in this way, 
not so much water will be required during 
the period of root formation. Quite a large 
number of gardeners fail to root Carnation 
cuttings .successfully owing to placing them 
in stoves where the top-heat and atmospheric 
moisture usually found in such places are 
fatal to success. Much top-heat for such 
things must always be avoided. The amateur 
may take it as a safe guide that if his green¬ 
house is heated to between 45 degs. and 
50 degs. his bottom-heat l>ed may exceed the 
last-named by not more than 15 degs., always 
working on tho principle of a cool top-heat, 
such as the Carnation prefers to keep it in 
good health. 

Potting off the cuttings. —When the 
cuttings are well rooted, it is well first for 
a week or so to inure them to full air and 
light by the removal of the glass, when they 
will be ready for potting into small pots. 
The pots should not be of a less size than 
21- inches, and it is well to bear in mind that 
these cuttings struck in sand may be lifted 
with a fine ball of roots practically intact. 
This is one of the great advantages of the 
system, and the mass of roots may be re¬ 
moved with little or no injury. In the 6and, 
root production is much greater, and the 
young plants come away unharmed. Tlius it 
is that their stay in the small pots should be 
of short duration, and some two or three 
weeks will be ample at this period, more par¬ 
ticularly should the weather be open and 
fairly mild. In the latter circumstances, an 
early shift into 4-inch or 5-inch pot-s will be 
most desirable. These 5-inch pots will carry 
the young plants into the month of May, and 
at all times a temperature of about 50 degs. 
will suffice. 

Soil for final potting.— This should 
consist of fibrous loam, about three parts, 
with good leaf-mould and old, finely-sifted 
manure in equal parts. A liberal amount of 
sand should be added, with the addition of a 
5-ineli potful of bone-meal to each two 
bushels of soil. Where the loam is of a re¬ 
tentive nature, a free addition of old mortar 
or burnt clay should lie made ; failing these, 
double the amount of sand. Moderately firm 
potting is essential at all times, and a water 
space between the soil and the pot's rim of 
nearly a half-inch, in the case of the small 
size pot, is most important, so that a good 
watering may be given when this is neces¬ 
sary. This water space must be proportion¬ 
ately increased for the larger sizes of pots. 

Grcen-flv must be kept under by fumigating 
with nicoticide or XL All. The young plants 
in the small pots should be stopped at about 
3 inches or 4 inches above the rim of the pot. 
This should produce three or more good 
breaks, and the subsequent stopping of these 
will depend upon the varieties grown. Treated 
in this way, and by careful observance of cul¬ 
tural details, anyone may grow these Carna¬ 
tions with every chance of success.] 


Keeping Gloxinias (J . S.).—If the temperature 
falls much below 45 degs. the tubers are liable to 
decay: or if allowed to become too dry they shrivel. 
Tl-ey do best when stored for the winter in half-dump 
Cocoa-fibre in a temperature of about 50 degs. 


TUBEROSES. 

The Tuberose is greatly appreciated by most 
persons, and it is ro useful in various ways 
that its culture might be further extended 
in private gardens, where quantities of 
flowers are in demand. Market growers cul¬ 
tivate the Tuberose in large quantities, but 
it- is of equal value to the private grower. 
Since the introduction of the variety named 
The Pearl, the Tuberose is now more avail¬ 
able as a pot plant than formerly, when 
only the tall varieties were known. The 
Pearl is of a much more dwarf and compact 
habit than the African or the ordinary 
American Tuberose, and this renders it so 
much more suitable for mixing with other 
subjects in the conservatory or greenhouse. 
In large rooms or front halls, where bold 
groups arc employed, the Tuberose associates 
well with them, especially if the plants are 
so disposed that the spikes of bloom show a 
few inches above the foliage in an easy and 
graceful manner. In such petitions, the 
flowers usually last in good condition for a 
w'eek or ten days. Where there is a large 
demand for those flowers, a supply may be 
kept up the whole year round by paying at¬ 
tention to the potting up of several batches at 
intervals from the month of September up 
to the end of May. 1 generally have a good 
quantity potted at the beginning of the year, 
and those not required at once for forcing 
arc placed on the lowermost shelf in the 
Apple-room or in a cool vinery. From hero 
they are drafted to the forcing-house accord¬ 
ing to requirements. Formerly another lot 
of tubers was potted some time during 
March and again in tho autumn, and I never 
experienced any difficulty in having plenty 
of blooms the whole year round. I do not 
grow them so extensively now, and confine 
myself to having a good display during the 
summer and autumn months. The tubers 
can now be bought at a cheap rate, and they 
are of easy culture. 

The chief reason why many fail in growing 
the Tuberose (successfully may be traced to 
two causes. One is supplying water to the 
roots before growth commences, and the 
second to the attempt to grow the plants in 
too cool a temperature and without the aid 
of bottom-heat. It is a good plan to have 
the compost in a moderately moist state 
when potting, and then water will not be 
needed. To start them into growth, a genial 
bottom-heat is required, with a top tempera¬ 
ture of 65 degs. When they begin to grow', 
commence watering, and by the time the 
flower-spikes appear, they will take it freely, 
and may also have occasional doses of liquid- 
manure. If it is necessary to hurry them, 
the plants may be removed to a warmer 
house after the flower-spikes appear. A 
Pine stove or a similarly heated house, where 
there is plenty of atmospheric moisture, suits 
the plants at this stage, but they should be 
kept near the glass, to prevent them be¬ 
coming drawn. After two or three flowers 
open, it is best to move the plants to a cooler 
and drier house if wanted for room decora¬ 
tion. taking the precaution to first put. a 
stake to the flower-spike. With regard to 
anil, that of a loamy description suits' them 
best, with a little leaf-mould, dried, pow¬ 
dered cow-manure, and plenty of silver sand 
added to keep the compost open. 

Before potting, break off all offsets from 
the tubers, pot firmly, and place them well 
down in the soil, leaving about 1 inch of the 
neck showing above the surface. One tuber 
is sufficient for a 5-inch pot, two for a 6-inch, 
and three for a 7-inch pot. The first-named 
size I find the most useful. The pots being 
small, they take up but little room when 
dropped in among other plants, either in 
groups or on stages. 


Chimonanthus not blooming (E. L. D .) : —If we 
had experienced a normal amount of sunshine last 
summer to ripen the young and vigorous shoots, it l* 
possible that you would have had a satisfactory dis¬ 
play of blossoms this season. As it is you may 
reasonably hope for plenty of flowers another year. 


Phe English Flower Garden and Home 

>unds ’’-iVeic Edition, 10th, recital, with descrip. 
r of all the best plants, trees, and shrubs, their 
ire and arrangement, illustrated on wood. Cloth, 
lum Suo, 158.; post free, 15s. Gd. 
rhe English Flower Garden" »n*y also he 
finelg hound in 3 cols., half odium, ~’<s. nett, (j] 
eoks tilers. 1 


URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



February 15, 1908 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


673 


OUTDOOR PLANTS* 


SPIRyEA PALMATA AND VARS. 

One of the most useful of true herbaceous 
perennials, by reason of its colour, its hand¬ 
some leafage, its value for more than one 
position in the garden, and, not least, its 
rich masses of light crimson-scarlet flowers, 
is the well-known Spiraea palmata. The 
typical species, introduced into British gar¬ 
dens from Japan close upon a century ago, 
does not appear to have made much headway 
when first introduced, and, like many another 
good plant, was passed over because the 
fashion for good herbaceous plants had not 
arrived. Moreover, not a few of the earlier 
introductions from the same country were 
not regarded as absolutely hardy in England. 
The plant was quite a rarity between thirty- 
five and forty years ago, and, up to the year 
1872, was rarely to be found in hardy plant 
lists. About that time, or, possibly, a little 
later, an importation of single “eyes” or 
“crowns” reached this country, and 6omc 


weather. In rich and congenial soils the 
crown tufts increase freely, and to do full 
justice to these, periodical division and re¬ 
planting are desirable. What may be ac¬ 
complished by affording the plant the best 
possible conditions in which to grow is 
abundantly evidenced by the fine group in the 
accompanying illustration, wherein are ad¬ 
mirably seen the true characters of leaf and 
blossom. That seen in the picture is the 
white variety (Spiraea palmata alba), and 
there are others known by the distinctive 
names of S. p. elegans, with pink blossoms, 
and S. p. purpuroscene, whose blossoms are 
of a deeper colour than in the type. Any of 
the forms of this plant are good for the gar¬ 
den, if treated as suggested. The plant is 
about 2-\ feet high, as usually seen, but its 
actual vigour depends not a little upon the 
conditions of culture as meted out in indi¬ 
vidual cases. Where much moisture cannot 
be given, a shaded position should be selected, 
and this, with a good depth of rich soil, will 
furnish a fair measure of success. In the 
open garden these plants flower during July 
and August. E. J. 


where. In some spots it has been planted 
several times, but has invariably died out, 
even where the ground was specially pre¬ 
pared for its reception. Where it is happy, 
however, it will often increase rapidly from 
self-sown seedlings. The plant dies down 
very early in the summer, and, where it is 
wished to introduce it, the tubers should be 
procured as soon as possible after the foliage 
has withered. Tubers planted as late as De¬ 
cember, when they are often put in, are 
rarely satisfactory. If an attempt is made to 
propagate it from seed, this should be ob¬ 
tained as soon as it is ripe, and sown im¬ 
mediately. S. W. Fitzherbert. 


THE LARGE-FLOWERED INCARVILLEA 
(1NCARVILLEA GRANDIFLORA). 

I Some of us remember well the interest which 
| was taken in the pretty Incarvillea Olga} 
when it was introduced, more than twenty 
I years ago, and the pleasure with which we 
I saw this plant in bloom, giving us, as it were, 
something of distinct character in the gar¬ 
den. Unfortunately, however, it has not 



Spiraa palmata alba in Mr. T. Smith’s nursery at Newry. 


of these came into my hands with instructions 
to take great care of them. The small bits 
were first potted, and subsequently, in May, 
were planted in rich soil, the plants making 
fine tufts. Later on some of the plants were 
exhibited, and the compact habit of the plant 
and the colour of the blossoms at once found 
favour. The favour that it gained at that 
time has been well maintained, and to-day 
the plant is as popular as it was many years 
ago, and each year fresh consignments reach 
this country. For some years a large number 
of plants have been used annually for the 
greenhouse. The chief value of the plant, 
however, is the brilliant effect it produces 
in the open garden, where in moist spots, 
perhaps, the plant attains to its highest per¬ 
fection. Moisture-loving by nature, this 
Spirrea is especially valuable for planting in 
groups in the wet or moist ground adjacent 
to lake, pond, or stream, and in such posi¬ 
tions with Grass near the brilliant effect of 
the rich masses of blossoms in full sunlight 
is very fine. It succeeds well, too, in any 
rich and deep, moist soil, the latter, essential 
in the development of the fine leafage and to 
prevent it from becoming scorched ,in dry 

Digitized b, Google 


THE WINTER ACONITE. 

I The bright gold of the Winter Aconite is 
| now again with us, bringing with it a pro¬ 
mise of the still too far distant spring. On 
dull days the large, globular heads of gleam¬ 
ing yellow, nestling in their green, Eliza¬ 
bethan ruffs, are very attractive. To realise 
the value of the Winter Aconite in the land- 
I scape it should be planted by the thousand 
beneath deciduous trees. In spots where the 
I conditions are favourable, such colonies have 
| so greatly increased as to cover large areas 
of sward under thinly-planted trees, when 
they afford delightful pictures on a sunny 
morning, with their countless fully-expanded 
blossoms forming a veil of gold around the 
gnarled, old trunks and beneath the leafless 
j branches. Several winter-flowering plants, 
such as Jasminum nudiflorum, Hamamelis 
I arborea, and Chimonanthus fragrans, bear 
I yellow flowers, but none of these is capable 
of such a display as the Winter Aconite when 
planted in quantity, so that its gleam of 
glowing yellow is a feature in the landscape 
from afar. Unfortunately, although it is a 
perfectly hardy plant, the Winter Aconite 
(Eranthis hyomalis) will not succeed every- 


stood the test of time, inasmuch as it has 
not proved so hardy as was anticipated, and 
only in the south can it be considered a true 
hardy perennial. Then, about 1893, the fine 
I. Delavayi caused greater delight, for it is 
one of the plants which are distinct enough 
to give that character to the border we all 
desire, unless we are entirely wedded to 
masses of colour alone. It is hardy, but its 
tuberous roots appear to have only a certain 
—or uncertain—life duration, and they seem 
to develop decay after a lapse of years. This 
is of little consequence, as I. Delavayi can bo 
readily raised from seeds, which are very 
freely produced, and which ripen even far 
to the north. Even with all the beauties of 
I. Delavayi, however, there is ample room 
for T. grandiflora, considered to be worthy of 
specific rank, although I am not sure that 
this will always be granted it, as, although 
differing in several points, it comes very 
near I. Delavayi, which preceded it in our 
gardens bv some five years or so. Both come 
from the same parts of China, and, although 
spoken of as only a greenhouse species in 
some good works of reference, I. grandiflora 
is with me as hardy as I. Delavayi. In some 
respects it i_s superior to that beautiful 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 







674 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


February 15, 1908 


plant, especially for the front of the border, 
its stature of about a foot being les9 than 
that of the latter, while its flowers are of a 
better colour, being of a rich rose-red. 
Fewer flowers are produced oil the scape, 
there being only one or two. The spikes and 
leaflets are also shorter. It blooms from 
May to July, and in the border never fails 
to invite attention from those who like 
flowers distinct from the ordinary run. 
Tubers can be purchased in spring, and are 
comparatively cheap at the present time. 
The crowns should be an inch, or even two, 
under the surface, but the plant ought to be 
marked with a peg or a permanent tally, as 
the crowns are liable to injury when the roots 
are at rest. This fine, hardy plant is useful 
for those who wish a distinct border plant 
about a foot high. S. Arnott. 


THE ALGERIAN IRIS (IRIS STYLOSA). 
This lovely Algerian Iris, also known as I. 
unguicularia, succeeds splendidly in the 
south-west. This is certainly not the case 
in all portions of the kingdom, as complaints 
are constantly being received from corre¬ 
spondents who are unable to grow or flower 
it in the colder districts. It in generally 
recommended that it should be planted im¬ 
mediately in front of a south wall, but, al¬ 
though that may be advisable in the lees 
genial localities, it is quite unnecessary in 
Devon and Cornwall, where it will flower 
splendidly in the open without wall protec¬ 
tion. About twelve years ago I gave six 
small roots to a nursery firm, and the produce 
of these a few years ago completely filled a 
bed 15 yards in length and 3 yards in breadth, 
although a hundred or more plants had been 
sold. Last year the plants had become so 
crowded that they had to be lifted and 
divided, half being planted in a fresh bed. 
Two plants that have been under my notice 
for some time have done especially well. 
They arc growing in rock pockets, in size 
114 inches by 17 inches, at the top of a flight of 
steps. Here they bloom with amazing pro¬ 
digality, having entirely filled the pockets. 
One winter they produced 631 flowers, the 
largest daily gathering being on December 
31st, when 54 blossoms were cut. Iris stylosa 
appreciates a dry and warm soil, and will 
flourish on the steepest banks. It usually 
commences to flower in the last week of Oc¬ 
tober or early in November, but this season, 
doubtless owing to last year’s dark and sun* 
loos summer, it is unusually late, few flowers 
having been picked up to the present. The 
blossoms, which are as beautiful as those of 
any Orchid, arc pale lavender blue, prettily 
reticulated around the yellow band of the 
fall, and are about 4 inches acrose. They 
are deliciously fragrant, and, if required for 
indoor decoration, should be cut in the bud 
state, when they will expand perfectly in 
water. There are many varieties, that known 
as spec ice a, with rich violet falls and shorter 
leaves, being one of the best. The white 
variety, of which there are two forms, is a 
pretty contrast to the type. 

S. W. Fitzherbert. 


ROCKWORK PLANTS AND FROST. 

We have had very severe frost here—up to 10 doge., 
and my rook garden has been severely frozen (soil- 
stilt marl, but lightened with burnt refuse, leaf- 
mould, sand, etc.; good drainage). In ordinary 
winters all alpine and herbaceous plants survive, 
owing to garden being high up. Lately I covered up 
a good many plants, putting sacking right over the 
frozen foliage (flat). Is it harmful to do this when 
the plants and ground are frozen hard? I shall re¬ 
move them directly the thaw sets in. A good many 
I had, before frost, covered up right over the 
foliage in Cocoa-fibre and some with leaves. Should 
the foliage tips be left uncovered?—A lan. 

[It is somewhat difficult to answer your 
question other than from a general stand¬ 
point. Had you mentioned those plants you 
had so covered up, a more definite reply 
could have been given. Such particulars are 
of much 'importance. Speaking generally, 
however, “sacking” is about the worst thing 
to cover with, and we would certainly not 
use it for any alpines. As a rule, these 
plants arc not at all sensitive to frost, and 
the dry frost experienced of late is the least- 
calculated to do harm. Frost, thaw, rain, 
and frost again during short periods may be 
very harmful, particularly to woolly-leaved 
plants, as the AitffroSaces. Sued as these, 

Digitized by VjOk >glC 


again, may be perfectly hardy, or partly so, 
according to the position they occupy, and 
when growing in nearly upright or eharply 
sloping crevices of rock,'may endure with im¬ 
punity all the vicissitudes of our changeable 
climate. As the garden appears to be ele¬ 
vated, we should not regard the covering of 
alpine plants generally as a necessity, a view 
much strengthened by your' own remarks. 
At the same time, it may be necessary to 
throw off the wet from the heads of certain 
plants, remembering that in their native 
habitats such things are often kept dry and 
warm by many inches—sometimes feet—of 
snow, which subsequently not only affords a 
generous watering in the spring, but also pro¬ 
vides an annual mulch of grit, which it brings 
down with it. What the choicer alpines ap¬ 
pear to prefer is dryness overhead, and, given 
this, with a free passage of air, they will 
endure much frost and cold. By covering 
with “sacking,” you encompass these plants 
by damp, and, worse still, provide a snug 
retreat for slugs. Large groups of plants 
which it is desirable to cover up may be 
protected by strips of oiled calico stretched 
on sticks, and placed a few inches above the 
heads of the plants to throw off the wet. 
Isolated examples may be protected by fixing 
a sheet of glass on wires a few inches above 
them. If, however, there are individual 
plants of which you have a doubt, you had 
better send us their names, when we will 
assist you. Ip future, when you send any 
queries, please sign, and at the same time 
add the address in each case. The queries 
have often to bo sent to various correspon¬ 
dents to be dealt with, and the name and ad¬ 
dress are liable to be omitted when two or 
more questions are asked.] 


NOTES AND REPLIES . 

Lilies for naturalising -Kindly say what 
Lilies would he suitable for naturalising in the Grata? 
The soil is gravel, and Martagon Lilies, purple and 
white, have sowed themselves freely, especially in the 
shade of trees. Lilium auratum has also grown in the 
Grass for four or live years.—8. I\ II., lioacrea, 
Ireland. 

[What Lilies are best suited for naturalising 
in the Grass will depend not a little upon 
the nature of the turf itself and other local 
influences. As you appear to have had some 
success with L. Martagon varieties, you might 
add such as L. M. dnlmnticum, a dark- 
flowered variety; also L. dalhansoni, L. 
Hansoni, L. tigrinum in variety, L. speeio- 
6 um in variety, L. testaccum, L. colchicum, 
etc. To the L. auratum section you might 
add the variety platyphyllum, the finest of the 
group. L. giganteum is by no means a fas¬ 
tidious species, so far as soil is concerned, 
and is one of the most stately and ornamental 
of all. A group of this makes a fine feature 
in any garden. If early-flowering or dwarf 
kinds would be of service, we recommend L. 
pomponiurn vermn, L. pyrenaicum, etc. Not 
least among good accommodating Lilies is L. 
Browni leucanthum, a long, white trum¬ 
pet kind, producing axillary bulbils that soon 
grow into flowering plants. If any of your 
shade is given by trees of dark evergreen 
character, as Holly, Yew, Austrian or Corsi¬ 
can Pine, try a group of the white Madonna 
Lily in near proximity. Well placed, we 
know of no kind so effective as this.] 

Making a herbaceous border — I have con¬ 
verted an old shrubbery, which faces slightly north 
of west, into a border, with the idea of growing 
herbaceous plants in it. As it is so completely over¬ 
shadowed by big trees (Elms) 1 am afraid they would 
not do. Can you suggest anything that would make 
a bright and attractive border?—IGNORAMUS. 

[Far worse than the shade of the Elms is 
the hungry and far-reaching character of 
their roots, and where the trees are of large 
size, as in your cose, it is difficult to know 
what to plant to make an attractive border. 
Much would depend, however, upon circum¬ 
stances, and whether you would be prepared 
to engage in annual replanting some of the 
subjects and affording them encouragement 
during their season of growth. If you are 
prepared to do this, many plant** could be 
named that would for a time succeed, but, if 
not, the whole thing would, we fear, be a 
dismal failure. You do not say, however, 
how numerous are the trees, nor at what dis¬ 
tance they are from the border; and here, 
again, such facts may serve greatly to modify 


what we have already stated. We place the 
matter before you in this way to show how 
much depends upon your own ideas of mak¬ 
ing the thing a success, and how much upon 
the exact circumstances of the case. If the 
border is some 30 feet distant from the 
trunks of the trees, much help might be 
given to the plants by first opening out a 
trench 2 feet wide by 3 feet deep and sever¬ 
ing all root fibres found in the excavation, 
following this by trenching and clearing the 
border soil of all roots, root fibres, and 
suckers, which latter spring so freely around. 
This completed, you could enrich the soil by 
manuring, etc., and make a selection from 
such groups as Michaelmas Daisies, Sun¬ 
flowers, Campanulas, Rudbeckias, Globe 
Thistle, Flag or German Irises, Iris species 
of tall growth as sibiriea, ochroleuca, orien- 
talis, aurea, etc.; Spanish Irises, Hele- 
niums, Anchusa italica. Perennial Pea, 
Columbines, Pyre thrum uliginosum, tall 
Achilleas, Oriental Poppies, Day Lilies, 
Lenten Roses, Hepaticas, Megaseas, dwarf 
Achilleas, Chrysanthemum Leucanthemum 
and such Lilies as Martagon, eandiduw, 
6 peciosum, croceum, tigrinum, etc. Any 
background gaps in close proximity to the 
trees could be filled up by planting Holly¬ 
hocks, tall Michaelmas Daisies, Pampas 
Gravss, Polygonums, Boeconia cordata, Fox¬ 
gloves, Lythrum, and the like. We could 
have given a more helpful list of plants had 
you stated the size or extent of the border 
in question.] 

Romney a Coulter!. — I have a ltomneya Coulteri 
planted in an open space on my lawn, where it is ex¬ 
posed to sun and wind. 1 dug a moderate-sized bole 
for it, and put in loam with a little lime rubbish. 
It grew fairly well last summer and flowered. Buy¬ 
ing partly died down early in the winter I cut it 
down. Will it be likely to live am! thrive in its 
present position or should 1 do better to move it to 
a border? 1 would much rather leave it where it is 
if it has a fair chance of thriving there.—G. G. 

[The Roinneya is impatient of much dis¬ 
turbance, and as you appear to have planted 
it well, and the plant has taken to flowering, 
it may now establish itself perfectly. You 
did quite right in cutting it down, as this will 
assist in the production of strong basal 
shoots and a better flowering. Where, how¬ 
ever, strong basal shoots are made, and do 
not flower the same year, these may in - future 
remain, as they arc calculated to give an 
earlier flowering. You should water the 
plant during dry weather, and when grow¬ 
ing freely weak liquid-manure will be bene¬ 
ficial.] 

Salvia Zurich. —For the flower garden this 
is a splendid variety, because it conn's into 
bloom in August, and continues until cut 
down by frost. Salvia splendens and its 
varieties are much bolder in their habit, bub 
they do not come into flower until later in 
the summer and autumn. There is no mis¬ 
taking the brilliance which may be had from 
beds of these varieties of Salvia, and the 
freedom with which their elegant spikes are 
produced is well known. The dwarf variety 
named above deserves extended cultivation. 
A large isolated bed filled with these Salvias 
is indeed a gorgeous sight, especially 
when there is a background of evergreen 
trees or shrubs. A stock is easily raised from 
cuttings. Salvias are very impatient of 
severe cutting back. They will often refuse 
to start again if hard cut back, and for this 
reason the stock plants should be retained in 
an unpruned state; sido shoots then issue 
from the stems, and these, when taken off 
and inserted in shallow boxes or pots, kept 
moist and warm, soon root. Encouraged 
with fresh, sweet potting soil, they will make 
rapid growth in spring. The tops can ho 
taken off and rooted to keep up succession. 
A stock of any of these Salvias can soon be 
raised when old plants are preserved in a 
healthy state. They come freely from seeds, 
and in time for planting out if sown in Feb¬ 
ruary.—W. S. 

Godetias (M . 0 .).—These do not bear transplant¬ 
ing well. You had better 60 W thinly in the posi¬ 
tions you wish them to occupy, afterwards thinning 
very freelv if you wish for a succession of bloom 
Sow earlv in April if the soil is then in good working 
order. Give Godetias plenty of room and well en¬ 
riched soil, as they flower so freely that they soon 
get exhausted if the soil is poor. Allow between 
each plant a «*pacc of from 8 inches to 12 inches, nmi 
then the plant* will not present that weedy appear- 
^n*je so often seen. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



February 15, 1908 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


675 




SCENE IN DONEGAL. 

It is curious how, in the mild climate of 
Ireland, semi-tropical things thrive so well in 


EREMURUS BED AT MYDDELTON 
HOUSE. 

Tue bed shown in the accompanying illustra- 


so well that I have acquired all I can get hold 
of to keep it company. Facing south, it is 


In a Donegal garden. From a photograph by Mies S. M. Wallace, Ardnamona, Lough Kske. 

the south ; but hero we see an illustration i tion suited the first Eremurus I planted in it 
from a photograph taken in the north in the 
wild county of Donegal, showing how Cordy- 
lines may be trusted there. Wonderful as 
this is, the writer must eav that he has little 
interest in such plants as this either in France 
or England. Things for our climate are quite 
different, and certainly more beautiful, 
though it is nice when enjoying such a climate 
to see what may be done. 


Aubrietias. —There are certain old- 
fashioned flowers that, on the approach of 
spring, require but “the sunny hour” to 
show their beauty, and of all the rock- 
plante, none comply with those conditions 
better than do the Aubrietias. Wherever one 
travels in the country they are to be found, 
either on rockeries, or, as is often the case, 
covering stone walls, growing sometimes in 
places where there is very little room for soil 
and moisture; but, once having become 
accustomed to their surroundings, blooming 
with a freedom that is truly surprising. 
Sometimes one hears of people who fail with 
them, especially in their attempt to induce 
them to grow on walls and grottoes, and 
although Aubrietias strike easily when 
dibbled into sandy soil, it is now and again 
difficult to get them to strike where the soil 
is sparse. To such I would recommend their 
adopting another method, and one that is 
not often practised with these showy spring 
flowers—the plan of dropping a few seeds in 
the niches and crevices of stones and walls, 
getting what soil it is possible therein first, 
where failures have previously occurred 
with Rock Cresses, I have known the plan 
of sowing seeds to answer, and the results , 
have been showy banks of blossoms.— Towns¬ 
man . 

Plant for north wall (E Food).—No; the Rose 
W. A. Richardson will not answer. Try Clematis 
montana or. In fact, any of the Clematises. The 
only difference will be that they will be later in 
coming into flower. You should also plant Jasminum i 
nudiflorum. For such a PQsiUqn there is ^othinp ) 
better than some of the fln£ varietksloLJv 

now to b^O^itiZCd |>y 1 


gravel of a very hungry kind just below, and 
the made soil above is robbed by tree-roots, 
and so dries out very thoroughly in late sum¬ 
mer. I believe it is this ripening treatment 
that suits the Eremuri so well, and that a 
good mulch of thoroughly rotten manure, 
such as that from an old hotbed, in early 
spring, well supplies them with food in their 
growing season, fine yellow roots being 
pushed up into it. I think they dislike being 
planted deeply, 3 inches to 4 inches of soil 
being quite sufficient over the central crowns. 
When planting, I dig out a large hole some 
yard or more across, and spread out the star¬ 
fish-like roots, then pour a potful of sand 
over the central crown, and gently lift it, tha£ 
the sand may sift through till it rests upon 
a little mound of sand, and the roots slope 
gently downward from the centre. I find it 
better not to protect the leaves when pushed 
through in spring, as doing so encourages 
them to grow too quickly, and they suffer 
more in the end than w'iien kept in check 
by the night frosts. 

In the illustration, the front group at the 
left hand side is E. him-rob, with seven 
spikes, the increase from two roots. Thero 
follows a couplo of a very late form of ro- 
bustus, that I bought as Elwesianus. They 
flowered well later on, but at the time the 
photograph was taken were not high enough 
to show. The true Elwesianus is at the far 
end, and has one bent and two upright spikes. 
The very tall, solitary spike next them is of 
the rare and lovely Elwesianus albus. Then 
comes a group of himalaicus, with one spike 
bent over by the previous day’s heavy rain, 
and then a group of robusttis, very incon¬ 
spicuous, as the buds were } r et green. This 
well shows the intermediate period of flower¬ 
ing of him-rob betw-een those of its parents, 
himalaicus and robustus There should have 
been visible a spike of the dw r arfer hybrid. 
E. Tubergeni, a pretty sulphur form, raised 
iu Holland from the cross, himalaicus with 
Bungei. Other species, that flower later in 
this bed are Warei and its Shelford variety; 
Bungei, in three varieties, caucasicus, turkes- 
tanieus, and Olgm, which, though it appears 
healthy, and has even increased sinco 
planted, I have never yet flow r ercd, the spikes 
djdng off suddenly just when the buds should 
begin to colour. I think they have, perhaps, 


Eremuri in Mr. Bowles garden at Mj-ddleton House/Waltham Cross, N. 


backed for half its length by old Portugal 
Laurels, so much overgrown bv Ivy as to look 
like Ivy trees, and for the rest of the way by 
a low Yew hedge. The soil is poor, with 


suffered from drought, and I must try what a 
good mulch and •\Vaicring will do. 

i iMii/rnrW 

Cro««. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 







676 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


February 15, 190$ 


ROOM AND WINDOW. 

WINDOW PLANTS. 

Although very little water will be needed 
at this time of year, the soil must not be 
allowed to become dust-dry. When this 
.occurs the roots shrivel, and the vitality of 
the plant is affected, so that later on, when 
the days lengthen, it cannot respond at once 
|o the combined influences of increased light 
and warmth. Zonal Pelargoniums should be¬ 
come dry before they are watered, but Ferns 
and Palms should be kept just moist, other¬ 
wise they will in some measure lose their 
colour. If they are in rooms where fire is 
Only occasionally made, water will seldom be 
needed, but if kept in constantly-heated 
apartments they will need looking to every 
other day. Do not make the mistake of 
thinking that giving a little water every day 
la the proper thing to do. If the application 
of the necessary amount of moisture could 
be managed in this way, any child could 
grow plants very well. Watering is an art 
Which can only be acquired by practice. An 
acquaintance, who is very fond of flowers, 
said: “I give my plants a little water every 
,4ay- I suppose that is the right thing to 
UP ?” As the window fronts north, and, 
Ifierefore, even in summer gets very little 
WJJ), it is evident that this was not the right 
1(1 ing to do. As a fact, she was giving six 
times more water than was needful, the con¬ 
sequence being that her plants did not last 

t good condition for any length of time, 
hen more water than is* needful is given, 
e soil becomes sour, the roots come into 
a semi-torpid condition, the consequence be¬ 
ing that the plants quickly lose their healthy 
(Appearance. The effect of injudicious water¬ 
ing is especially felt by plants that come 
from market gardens, and which, by very 
skilful culture, are brought to the highest 
point of excellence. Such things as Pelar¬ 
goniums, Mignonette, Fuchsias, and Cycla¬ 
mens do not last half the time they should 
ivhen overdosed with water. Too much is as 
bad as too little. The tender sucker-like 
finds of the roots sustain injury, and can- 
ijot, therefore, draw up the nourishment 
necessary to maintain flowers or foliage in 
good condition. Those who live in or within 
measurable distance of large towns are often 
induced to buy from the hawkers, who are 
sure to appear as soon as the sun gains in 
strength. I would strongly advise window 
gardeners not to purchase from those men 
Palms, Ferns, India-rubber, or any fine- 
foliaged plant which they desire to keep in 
good condition for several years. These 
plants may have been standing in the market 
several days before they are sold, and they 
must be exposed to climatic vicissitudes be¬ 
fore the hawker can get rid of them. From 
the time they leave the grower’s hands until 
they come into those of the window gardener 
a good week elapses, and although there may 
be no perceptible check, it is, nevertheless, 
there, and will show later on. Get this kind 
of plant, if possible, from a local florist, even 
if you have to pay a little more and the 
plants are not quite so imposing. Market 
gardeners have to grow at express speed, so 
that they may get the most from their glass, 
and plants forced along in this way are more 
liable to suffer from draught and fluctuations 
of heat and cold than those that have come 
along more slowly, and, therefore, nioro 
naturally. 

Although in January the days lengthen, 
and we consequently get a little more light, 

I have always thought that plants at that 
time are more liable to suffer from neglect 
in watering than in the preceding two 
months, which arc commonly considered to 
he the most dismal in the j’enr. This is, prob¬ 
ably, due to the fact that they are gradually 
coming into the resting stage, which means 
that the functions arc only sufficiently active 
to maintain health. Fuchsias that have been 
stored away in some odd corner should be 
looked to, and if the soil is quite dry, they 
may be pruned, cutting back the growths of 
the preceding year to the bottom eye. When 
the young growths nppenr the plants should 
be brought up into the light, as if allowed to 
make the slightest amount of loaf arowth in 
eemi-jlarkness they ^ill gundain fr''fl|c i i v J* from 



which it will take them some time to recover. 
Zonal Pelargoniums that have lost their 
leaves should not get a drop of water until 
March; they may then have enough to 
moisten the soil, but no more, until they 
break. Arum Lilies must be kept moister 
than most tilings, as they will now be form¬ 
ing their flower-buds. Cinerarias must be 
very carefully watered, as their roots are 
easily injured by overwatcring, and the foli¬ 
age being of a tender, succulent nature, 
suffers acutely from lack of moisture. 

J Corn hill. 


ANNUALS FOR CUTTING. 

The gradual but persistent decline of the 
cultivation of annuals in the majority of 
gardens may seem somewhat unaccountable, 
but a little reflection will indicate that it is 
to be attributed to the equally persistent ad¬ 
vance in favour of herbaceous plants. As 
the various herbaceous borders become 
nearly filled with perennials, there is a grow¬ 
ing disinclination to mix with them small 
patches of annuals, aurl so the latter are now 
seldom seen in quantity, except where there 
are particular facilities for their cultivation. 
There are a few of them, however, so useful 
for the production of cut flowers, that where 
these latter conditions do not exist, and 
where herbaceous borders have no room for 
other things, oomo places in the garden must 
be found for them, either in one of the out¬ 
lying slips that are almost invariably asso¬ 
ciated with the walled garden, or in some 
spare corner of the hardy fruit garden that 
is sufficiently under the influence of the sun 
to ensure plenty of flowers. 

Like all other inmates of the garden, an¬ 
nuals repay good cultivation, and the ground 
intended for their reception should have a 
fair coating of manure and be deeply dug 
early in the autumn (leaving it in a rough 
state), to ensure for the spring sowing a well 
pulverised and workable soil. Sweet Peas 
are indispensable as cut flowers, and a posy 
composed of the most delicate shader* is 
hard to beat even w ith choice flowers. The 
rows or clumps of Sweet Peas, if sown in the 
open, must be thoroughly protected from 
birds. I have tried small boughs of Fir or 
some evergreen shrub, but they arc not satis¬ 
factory, os, if kept over the Peas until the 
latter are safe from the birds, the young 
growth is drawn and weakly. The better 
plan for clumps is to sow in pots, harden 
off, aiul transplant; for rows, ordinary Pea 
guards can be used. Sweet Peas require a 
liberal dose of manure, deep tilth, and the 
constant removal of all seed-pods. This 
last is the secret of their extended flowering 
Reason, and must always receive careful at¬ 
tention. Asters are now used extensively, 
and their place would seem to be in the 
flower-garden; here, however, they might 
be in a position w'here one would be loth 
to cut them, and a batch should therefore he 
sown with other annuals. Asters are, per¬ 
haps, more in request than any other flower 
for harvest feotival decorations, and are very 
welcome for that purpose. The annual 
Cornflowers arc most useful, and will furnish 
an unlimited 6upply of bloom. The blue is 
decidedly the best, many of the shades ob¬ 
tained from a packet of mixed seed having 
a very washed-out appearance. The annual 
Chrysanthemums are grand for cutting, the 
varieties of tricolor, with their long flower- 
stalks. being well adapted for tall vases. The 
perfect flatness of the flowers makes them a 
little formal, and any arrangement effected 
with them must on no account be huddled 
together; interspersed with some light 
foliage, they are at once brilliant and effec¬ 
tive. The different varietieo of Dianthus 
must noi he forgotten, ns the flowers last 
well when out, and the same remark applies 
to the Godctias. The very delicate texture 
of these would seem to indicate extreme 
tenderness and a short life after cutting, but 
facts are directly opposed to this, and there 
are few more useful annuals. The African 
Marigolds are good for rough cutting, and 
are among the things that help to fill a flower- 
basket very quickly. No garden is com¬ 
plete through the summer months with¬ 
out plenty of Mignonette, and a good 
batch of this must always be sown. The. 
varieties of Phlox Drummondi, unlike the 
perennial Phloxes, bust well in a cut state, 


and as they can now be had in so many 
shades of colour, they will be found as useful 
for cutting as they arc for the furnishing of 
flower-beefs. 

The Salpiglossis and Scabious are later 
than moot of the above-named, but they are 
useful in late summer and early autumn. 
Like the Aster, Stocks are now grown largely 
in the flower-garden, but a few may be sown 
for cut bloom, the variety known as Princess 
Alice being specially valuable for the pur¬ 
pose. 

Space must he left for a small stock of 
Everlastings and ornamental Grasses, as 
these, if cut and dried, help to fill a few vases 
when fresh flowers are scarce. The above, 
with Zinnias and the smaller Sunflowers, 
comprise the majority of annuals that, are of 
much service in a cut (date, and will, with 
the herbaceous flowers of a like season, fur¬ 
nish a plentiful supply of cut bloom during 
the summer months. 

ROSES. 

SOME NOVELTIES OF MERIT FOR 
THE FORCING-HOUSE. 

I must confess there are few new Roses of 
sterling merit 1 mean Roses that stand out 
as prominently as Frau Karl Druschki, 
Caroline Testout, etc. There are great 
tilings expected of the Lyon Rose, hut we 
have recollections of Etoile de France, and 
shall prefer to wait and see for ourselves. 
I name below a few good things that should 
be grown under glass, if possible, not only 
to enable one to enjoy their beauty before 
the summer shows conic on. but also to pro¬ 
vide us with buds and cuttings in order to 
work up a stock of the same. One of the 
best will, I believe, prove to be 
Mme. Constant Soupert (Tea).—This is 
a superb flower, resembling Comtesse de 
Nadaillac in itss colouring. Judging from the 
fine blooms exhibited bust season, this should 
prove to ba a valuable variety to the ex¬ 
hibitor. 

Lady Helen Vincent (H.T.) seems to he 
a variety of the Dean Hole and Mrs. E. 
Mavvley type, and, as such, will be fine under 
glass. It is said to be a cross between Mme. 
Lambard and Marie Van Houtte. This alone 
would commend it to favourable notice. 

Mrs. Aaron Ward (H.T.) has certainly a 
great future, for it is a colour we want more 
of—an Indian-yellow tinted with salmon-rose. 
It has been described as a yellow Catherine 
Mermet, but I think this is afar-fetelied com¬ 
parison. It is a good “doer,” and that is 
something. Often those Roses that possess 
some extraordinary colour are of very in¬ 
different growth. 

Harry Kirk (Tea) is one I think highly 
of, for it is of a splendid deep sulphur-yel¬ 
low' colour, and, probably, it will prove to 
be one of the best in this desirable shade. 

Melanie Soutert (H.T.) has very large 
petals. It seems just like a White Lady 
flower, with a suffusion of colouring from 
some of the apricot-tinted Roses, but the 
growth is much superior to that of White 
Lady. I believe this will prove to be an 
acquisition. 

Souvenir of Stella Gray (Tea) is a de¬ 
lightful flower of truly wonderful colouring. 
It has been thought by some that this Rose- 
will, in time, take the place of Wm. Allen 
Richardson. Be that as it may, it is a Rose 
to procure. 

Marquise de Sinety (H.T.) has brought 
to the Hybrid Teas a tint of colour truly 
marvellous—a golden-yellow with bronzy-red 
shading. Unless supplanted by the Lyon 
Rose, this must be for some time to come 
one of our most, cherished Roses - that is, 
from a colour point of view'. 

Mme. J. W. Buddle (H.T.) in colour i* a 
brilliant carmine, and a very fine flower after 
the style of Antoine Rivoire. It comes to us 
from Messrs. Soupert et Netting, and already 
these noted raisers have given us such good 
things as Anne Marie Soupert, George 
Laing Paul, and Reiuo Marguerite dTtalic, 
valuable additions to the darker-coloured 
Hybrid Teas, of which w ? e have so few. 

Rosomane E. P. Roussel (H.T.).—If the 
growth nrovegcood enough, we have in this 
Ride a very valuable addition, lor it seems 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



Febhuary 15, 1908 


GARDENING ILL UST ltd TED, 


677 


to come in colour midway between Etoile de 
France, when “caught right,” and Hugh 
Dickson. It is very sweet. 

Dr. Wm. Gordon (H.P.) has been so re¬ 
cently illustrated in these pages that it will 
only be necessary to say that it is a splendid 
flower for those who like size and quality 
combined. The colour is something like 
that of Mme. G. Luizet. 

Marichu Layas (H.T.).—This is one of 
those beautifully-formed flowers that remind 
one of a Camellia with its perfect imbrica¬ 
tion. The colour is soft strawberry rose, the 
flowers abundantly and continuously pro¬ 
duced. 

Laurent Carle (II.T.).— Colour, velvety- 
carmine ; flowers large, of perfect form; 
buds long and handsome. 

Frau Ernst Borsig (H.T.).—This is in 
the way of Killarney, but rather deeper in 
colour/ The blossoms are of a large size, 
produced on good stems. 

Celia (H.T.).--This Rose was recently 
illustrated in these pages. It is a free- 
flowering variety of a lovely satin-pink colour. 
The blossoms are very double, and of large 
size, with' a beautiful form. It is a Rose 
likely to be in demand by reason of its excel¬ 
lent growth. 

Lady Calmouth (H.T.) will prove to be a 
superior flower and a better grower than 
Souvenir de Mine. Eugene Verdier. All who 


have grown this latter as a pot-Rose will 
know what a good one it is. 

Mrs. E. G. Hill (H.T.) has much of the 
charm in its colouring that so distinguishes 
Grand Due de Luxembourg—a coral-red on 
outside of petals with alabaster-white inside. 
The flowers arc borne erect, which will, 
doubtless, render it superior as a decorative 
Rose to the older variety. 

Lena (Tea) is one of those Roses whose 
colour is its main attraction. It is of a 
glowing apricot, and should find a place in 
every collection for its glorious colour alone. 

Warrior (H.T.) provides us with yet 
another red, this time a rich blood-red in 
the bud state. It is mainly as a bud-Rose 
that it will be grown. 

Mme. Pol Varin Bernier (Tea).—A Rose 
of much promise, its lovely buds being freely 
produced, both in the forcing-house and also 
in the garden. The buds are as perfectly 
formed as a show flower. 

Wm. Shean (H.T.), by reason of its im¬ 
mense size, should be grown as a pot-Rose. 
Even if only one or two specimens are pro¬ 
duced on a plant, they are of such splendid 
size that they make up for the quantity. 

All who can find space for a few new pot- 
jgrown Ramblers should not fail to procure 
Goldfinch, Delight, Paradise, Tunsendschon, 
and Hiawatha; and there is no doubt that a 
white Dorothy Perkins will be a fine acquisi¬ 
tion. but we may ha^"~b» wait another year 

for thilQjgjtized by VjCK >Qte 


FREE FLOWERING HYBRID PER¬ 
PETUAL ROSES. 

I am each season more than ever convinced 
that Hybrid Perpetual Roses will be again 
welcomed as popular favourites, and will as¬ 
sume their rightful place in every Rose- 
garden of any dimensions. It seems rank 
heresy to'say this just now, when the Hybrid 
Tea is so much in the ascendant, but moving 
about as I do among all classes of Rose- 
growers, I can read between the lines, as it 
were, and I fancy the non-professional Ro.‘o- 
grower desires, above all things, a Rose with 
fragrance and also quality of blossom as well. 
Now', how 16 the popular taste to be met? I 
say by the introduction of novelties having 
sterling qualities, of which Hugh Dickson 
may be cited as typical. Here we have a 
variety possessing almost the freedom of 
flowering of the Hybrid Tea, but with a rich¬ 
ness of colour and delicious fragrance that 
have long been the attributes of so many of 
the Hybrid Perpetuals. Roses of the 
Camoens and Marquise de Salisbury type may 
be grand for colour effects when planted in 
groups, but what can we say of their indivi¬ 
dual flowers? Personally, I think there is 
room for all of them, and such Roses are 
equally as precious as the superb Hybrid Per¬ 
petual. 

It may be there are numbers of readers of 


Gardening Illustrated entirely ignorant 
of the splendid variety of free-flowering Ro6e6 
| to be found among the Hybrid Perpetual 
! group, and if they are desirous of possessing 
, Roses of quality and fragrance, I would say, 
I plant them freely. I must not be understood 
i to advocate the mingfing of the Hybrid Per- 
petuals with Tens and Hybrid Teas where 
the autumnal beauty of the garden is prized 
by many owners far more than that of sum¬ 
mer. In a large, well-ordered garden they 
could be made to play their part without in¬ 
truding upon the domain of the Hybrid Tea, 
and even for autumn there is a goodly 
number of sorts which yield really grand 
! quantities of blossom well into September 
and October. The illustration of Tom Wood 
is a reminder of a very beautiful variety that 
should find a foremost place among free- 
blooming Hybrid Perpetuals. To obtain such 
a flower as is here depicted in fairly large 
numbers, both in summer and autumn, is 
surely an inducement to grow such sorts. The 
colour is a pleasing cherry-red, flowers not 
extra large, but of a most perfect form, and 
abundantly produced. Probably, it is a 
seedling from another well-known sort — 
Ulrieh Brunner. What a bold, fine-grower 
this latter is, bearing its blossoms at the end 
of 3 feet to 4 feet growths very often. Of a 
very different type is the brilliant Victor 
Hugo. What exquisite richness of shading 
and colour is here found ! Surely such a Rose 


is worth trying to reproduce with double its 
vigour. Then there is Louis Van Houtte, a 
grand flower and gorgeous in colour. Pre¬ 
ferring a-s it does the seedling Brier, it will 
on this 6tock prove a valued autumnal, far 
surpassing that much boomed and almost 
worthless Rose Etoile de France—at least, 
for British gardens. No doubt, in tropical 
climes it is a superb variety. A few other 
beautiful red and crimson sorts are Com¬ 
mandant Felix Faure, one of the best of 
recent H.P.'s, Alfred K. Williams. Captain 
Hayward, Alfred Colomb, Earl of Pembroke, 
Duke of Connaught, Henateur Vaisse, Mine. 
Victor Verdier, Duke of Wellington, General 
Jacqueminot, Charles Lefebvre, Lady Helen 
Stewart, Dr. Andry, Comte Raimbaud, and 
Mme. Isaac Pereire. This last, although 
known as a Hybrid Bourbon, is practically a 
Hybrid Perpetual, and one of the best all¬ 
round Roses to grow. Among the rose 
colours we have Marquise de Castellano, 
Victor Verdier, Jeannie Dickson, Heinrich 
Sekultheis, Robert Duncan, Annie Alexieff, 
Suzanne Marie Rodocanaclii, and Pride of 
Waltham, each one a fine Rose. Of the paler 
pink6 there are none to surpass Mrs. John 
Laing and Mrs. Sliarman Crawford. The 
latter even now (December 7th) has many 
beautiful buds upon the plants, and last week 
I could cut quite a splendid specimen of Mrs. 
John Laing. Mile. Eugenio Verdier, Mrs. 
Rumsey, Mrs. George Dickson, Mrs. Sand- 
ford are all so free and good that they deserve 
to be planted freely. As a white, what better 
can one desire than Frau Karl Druschki? 
Scentless, but dazzling in its snowy purity, 
this variety lias now a firm place in our 
gardens. All who possess it should be careful 
how they prune this Rose. It must be dealt 
with very leniently. Do not cut back into 
the thick old wood* thinking you are going to 
obtain some fine large flowers, because, un¬ 
like most other Roses, it refuses to break. 
Wherever it is possible to do so, plant 
standards or half-standards of this most valu¬ 
able Rose. Hybrid Perpetual Roses make a 
fine display when grown upon short 
standards, with about 15-inch to 18 inch 
stems, and even when planting beds and 
borders it is a good plan to have a few such 
plants to dot about among the bush plants. 


ROSE CI1ESHUNT HYBRID. 

For an exposed wall few Roses are more 
suitable than this. The growth is so vigor¬ 
ous and so hardy that one might freely plant 
it in any position. Sonic object to the colour 
of the developed flowers ; and I must admit 
that it does not then appeal to me, but in 
the bud stage it is very beautiful. Cheshunt 
Hybrid is of a colour which may be described 
as a cherry-crimson, with a sort of slatey 
hue upon its blossoms when developed. It is 
supposed to be one of the first Hybrid Teas, 
but it must give place in this respect to La 
France, a Rose introduced some 6ix years 
prior to Cheshunt Hybrid. As a standard, 
Cheshunt Hybrid can be recommended to 
make a good free head, vieing with Mine. 
Isaac Pereire and such-like in the grandeur 
of their developed heads. One is often asked 
for a good hardy wall Rose, and I can confi¬ 
dently recommend Cheshunt Hybrid. If a 
few other good hardy wall sorts are desired 
that will give a good display of blossom both 
in summer and autumn, I can recommend 
Pink Rover, a very fragrant sort, with lovely 
buds; Kaiscrin Friedrich, a pinkish-cream 
sport of the old Gloire de Dijon; Mme. 
Alfred Carriere, one of our freest and best 
nearly white Roses, and deliciously sweet- 
scented. Waltham Climber No 1 has a 
cherry-red flower as perfect as a Camellia ; 
Francois Crousse is certainly the most 
brilliant wall Rose we have at present; 
Mons. Desir is one of those purplish-crimsons 
of which there are too few. The lovely vel- 
* vetv shading of this Rose is grand, and the 
buds are ideal for button-holes. Climbing 
Captain Christy is a fine free climber which 
yields quantities of blossom of the same shade 
as the old sort, but not quite so large ; 
Climbing Caroline Testout is, perhaps, the 
best of all pink climbing Roses; and Frau 
Karl Druschki Wohld seem to be as much 
adapted for covering n large wall spacc-ns it 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



Rose Tom Wood. 



678 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


February 15, 1908 


is to be grown as a standard or bush. No 
one need trouble about the climbing form, 
because the ordinary sort may be induced to 
cover a large space, if but sparsely pruned. 
Useful additions to the crimsons are Ards 
Pillar and Ards Rover, whilst any space avail¬ 
able should certainly be made to shelter a 
J. B. Clark and a Mohrenkoenig. Rosa. 


VEGETABLES. 

IRISH SEED POTATOES IN ENGLAND. 
Much interest has been aroused during the 
past two years regarding the suitability of 
Irish seed Potatoes for planting in England. 
In the spring of 1906 the Department ar¬ 
ranged with various agricultural colleges to 
conduct a series of experiments in England, 
Scotland, and Wales, to test the relative 
value of Irish seed Potatoes in Great Bri¬ 
tain as compared with English and Scotch. 
The results were eminently satisfactory, and 
a report on the trials was duly published 
by the Department. The experiments were 
repeated in 1907 in England and Wales, 
where tests were made at fourteen agricul¬ 
tural colleges and on nineteen private 
farms. The trials were made in the follow¬ 
ing counties :— England: Bedford, Bucking¬ 
hamshire, Berkshire, Cambridgeshire, 
Cheshire, Derbyshire, Hertfordshire, Kent, 
Lancashire, Lincolnshire, Northumberland, 
Shropshire, Staffordshire, Sussex, York¬ 
shire. Wales: Anglesea, Cardigan, Car¬ 
narvon, Glamorgan. In 1906 the De¬ 
partment purchased the Irish seed direct 
from growers, and the experimenters 
were asked to procure English and Scotch 
seed through the ordinary trade channels. 
In 1907 the Department asked Messrs. Sut¬ 
ton and Sons. Reading, to purchase for them 
the necessary quantities of Irish, Scottish, 
and English seed through the ordinary 
sources of supply, and to distribute the seed 
to the experimenters. The only stipulation 
made was that the seed in every case should 
have been grown for at least the two pre¬ 
vious years on the same farm. This condi¬ 
tion was complied with, and in the case of 
the Irish seed it may be mentioned that the 
British Queen seed had been grown on the 
same farm for three years, and the Up-to- 
Date seed for about ten years. The Depart¬ 
ment did not know 1 from whom the seed had 
been purchased until after it had been dis¬ 
tributed. By the adoption of this method 
it was hoped to secure seed that would 
represent fairly the general supply from 
each of the three countries. The respective 
supplies of seed were obtained from the 
following districts : 

British Qi ebx. Ur to-Datb. 

Irish .. .. Belfast. Londonderry. 

Scottish .. .. Dumfries. Dumfries. 

English .. .. Peterboro'. Peterhoro’. 

The average results of the trials are 
shown in Tables I. and II. 

Irish seed compared w’ith Scottish 
seed.—Table I. — Showing the total ave¬ 
rage yield per statute acre from Irish and 
Scottish seed Potatoes grown at a number of 
centres in England and Wales in 1907. 

British Or ken. Ur-To-DATK. 

Total Total 

Ayer, yield. Aver. yield. 

Irish. Scottish. Irish. Scottish. 

T.O.Q. T. C.O. T.G.q. T. G.q. 

England.. 9 10 1 9 ft 0 110 1 11 5 3 32 centres. 

Wales.... 8 12 1 8 17 2 11 4 2 9 19 3 ft centres. 

The average results show that with the 
variety British Queen, planted in England, 
Irish seed has given a slightly higher yield 
than Scottish seed ; in the Welsh tests, how¬ 
ever, the Scottish seed shows a slight advan¬ 
tage. With the variety Up-to-Date the re¬ 
verse is the case, the Scottish seed giving 
slightly higher yields in England, whereas the 
Irish seed has produced heavier crops in 
Wales. With the exception of the compari¬ 
son of Irish and Scottish Up-to-Date seed 
grown in Wales, it may be observed that in 
no case docs the average yield from the two 
lots of seed vary more than five cwt. per acre. 
This confirms the opinion held by the Depart¬ 
ment and many other growers to the efTeet 
that Irish seed, if not superior, is at least 
equal to Scottish seed for planting in England 
and Wales. 

Irish seed compared with English 
seed.—Table lI.—»WtK©\\ ing the total avc 

Digitized byXjOOgLC 


rage yield per statute acre from Irish and 
English seed Potatoes grown at a number of 
centres in England and Wales in 1907. 

British i^i kkn. Up-to-Datk. 

Total Total 

Aver. yield. Aver. yield. 

Irish. English. Irish. English. 

T.C.Q. T.C.Q. T.CCJ. T.C.t^. 

England.. 9 10 1 8 81 1101 6 81 32 centres 

Wales_ 8 12 1 7 16 2 11 4 2 6 13 3 5 centres. 

The results given in this table entirely con¬ 
firm those obtained in 1900, and it is clearly 
evident that Irish seed will produce much 
heavier crops in England than English seed, 
even when the latter is changed from one 
district to another, as was necessarily the 
case in these experiments. 

Points of importance. —The results on 
the whole must be regarded as satisfactory 
both to farmers in England and in Ireland. 
The English farmer finds it necessary to ob¬ 
tain a cliange of seed Potatoes at least every 
second or third year, and these experiments, 
with numerous other trials, have proved that 
Re can now look to Ireland as well as lo Scot¬ 
land for seed well suited to his purpose. The 
Irish farmer has now an opportunity of re¬ 
establishing a business which at one time was 
extensive and profitable. It is, however, de¬ 
sirable to enumerate briefly the points to 
which Irish farmers must pay particular at¬ 
tention before they can hope to establish on 
its former scalo the trade in seed Potatoes 
with England. 

Varieties. —Irish farmers must be prepared 
to supply those varieties that are in demand 
in England. They cannot hope to export for 
seed such kinds as Champion or Beauty of 
Bute. These are round Potatoes with deep 
eyes, and are not popular in England, where 
Potatoes are peeled before being cooked. 
English growers, as a rule, prefer kidney¬ 
shaped Potatoes with shallow eves. For 
main crop purposes varieties of the Up-to- 
Date type, such as Factor, Duchess of Corn¬ 
wall, Scottish Triumph, and Dalmeny Beauty 
are largely grown ; but other kinds, such as 
Evergood, Northern Star, and Langworthy 
are in demand in some districts. As mid- 
season kinds, British Queen and Royal Kid¬ 
ney are popular; and as first earlies, Ninety¬ 
fold, Epicure, May Queen, Duke of York, 
and Sir John Llewellyn may be mentioned. 

Pure seed. —The necessity for supplying 
pure seed only cannot be too strongly em¬ 
phasised. A few consignments of impure seed 
will do great harm to the industry. It is 
imperative that all those engaged in the busi¬ 
ness should realise the importance of this 
fact. It is not sufficient to buy the original 
seed from a guaranteed pure stock, but the 
greatest care should be exercised to keep the 
stock pure. The grower’s own seed should 
be sprouted in boxes (see the Department’s 
leaflet No. 58), and carefully examined before 
planting. In this way it will be possible to 
detect “rogues”—that is, tubers of another 
variety; the colour of the sprout is an excel¬ 
lent guide. During the period the crop is 
growing, any plants exhibiting different cha¬ 
racteristics should at once be dug and the 
tubers removed; the colour of the blossom is 
a common means of distinguishing “rogues.” 
Other distinctions are a difference in the time 
of ripening, difference in foliage, and differ¬ 
ence in the shape or colour of the tubers. 

Selection and grading. —Seed should be 
carefully selected and properly graded ; all 
damaged, mis-shapen, and particularly all 
diseased tubers should be removed. The size 
of the seed is also an important matter. In 
Ireland seed Potatoes generally consist of the 
crop as lifted, with only the small tubers 
removed ; in England, however, Potatoes n.re 
generally required of “seed size”—that is, 
tubers that will pass through a ljj-incli or 
2 -incli, but not through a lpinch riddle. 
Such tubers are approximately of the size of 
hen eggs. 

Immature seed .—II is now recognised that 
seed from crops lifted before they are fully 
mature will produce more vigorous plants, 
and, consequently, heavier yields than seeds 
from crops which have been allowed to be¬ 
come fully ripe. In Ireland this applies more 
particularly, perhaps, to early varieties, but 
it is a point worthy of notice by growers of 
seed Potatoes. 

General. —Other points requiring attention 
are that seed should not be despatched in 
frosty weather, and that consignments should 


be despatched by the cheapest route. In this 
connection the seller should facilitate the 
purchaser by making preliminary inquiries 
from the transit companies, and he may find 
that special through rates will be arranged 
when it can be shown that such rates would 
encourage an industry, and, at the same time, 
increase the traffic of the companies in¬ 
terested. There is now a considerable de¬ 
mand from England for Irish seed Potatoes, 
and growers in this country who have reliable 
stocks for sale may find it advantageous to 
insert advertisements in the leading agricul¬ 
tural and horticultural journals. To sum up, 
the essentially important points are:— (a) 
The cultivation of varieties that are popular 
in England ; (b) the necessity for supplying 
such seed only as is pure and true to name; 
(r) the careful selection of the tubers before 
despatch ; (d) early lifting of the crop ; (e) an 
endeavour to meet requirements in general, 
and to supply what the purchaser is prepared 
to pay for, even though it necessitates a de¬ 
parture from the regular practice adopted at 
home .—Leaflet of the Department of Agricul¬ 
ture for Ireland. 


VEGETABLES FOR EXHIBITION. 
(Reply to “A. G. B.”) 

Unless you have a greenhouse or frame in 
which there is warmth, you will find it very 
difficult to have Celery or Vegetable Marrows 
fit for exhibition on July 12tli. That is really 
too early for cottagers or amateurs to have 
good vegetables, unless having special aids, 
a« mentioned. Jersey Lily or Snowball Tur¬ 
nip seed may be sown the first week in April 
if the soil be poor, but if well manured, then 
the second week will do. Sow seed thinly 
in shallow drills 12 inches apart, thinning 
the plants out to 6 inches apart when largj 
enough. Sow seed of Crimson Globe Beet, 
the first week in March, as advised for Tur¬ 
nips. Sow Mammoth and Giant Windsor 
Broad Beans at once in good soil, in rows 
2| feet apart, and the Early Giant Pea in 
the second and fourth weeks of March. If 
you have a frame or greenhouse to raise the 
Emperor Runner Beans in, sow one Bean in 
each of some thirty to forty small pots. Do 
that early in April, and grow the plants on 
strong, to be ready, when 12 inches in height, 
to plant out about the middle of May in a 
very sheltered place. It is very difficult in¬ 
deed to have Scarlet Runner Beans in full 
pod so early as July 12th. Carrot seed may 
be sown on % warm border the second week 
in March. The soil should be deeply worked 
and well manured. Sow in drills 12 inches 
apart, and thin out the plants early to 
4 inches apart. To have Celery fit for show 
then, sow seed at once in a shallow pan or 
box under glass. Prick the plants out later 
thinly into shallow boxes, and when 6 inches 
in height plant out into trenches. You should 
blanch the steins with brown paper bands 
before moulding up. As for Parsnips, it is 
useless to hope to have roots of any size so 
early. If you try to have them, sow at once. 
Marrow plants must bo grown oil strong in 
frames to produce plants so early. To fill in 
holes to produce fine Pam nips, Carrots, or 
Beets, use sifted pot soil or loam and leaf 
soil and grit or sand, all sifted. Scarlet Em¬ 
peror Beans come straight naturally when on 
tall stakes, but to get fine pods, weak ones 
should be thinned. Feed with weak manure- 
water. 


NOTES AND PE PLIES. 
Jerusalem Artichokes should now be 
raised, the medium and best-shaped tubers 
sorted out for replanting, which may bo done 
at any time now. selecting an open spot that 
has been well manured. The drills should be 
a yard apart, and the sets not less than 
18 inches asunder. Often this crop is given 
an unfavourable position on account of the 
stems growing to such a great height, but a 
corner can generally be found for Jerusalem 
Artichokes where the sun can reach them, 
and where no other crop is likely to shndj 
them. Artichokes, when about I foot high, 
should be moulded up like the Potato, and 
the stalks not interfered with, except to keep 
them upright, which can be done by stretch¬ 
ing a few strong cords made fast to stout 
stakes. Devonian. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



February 15, 190S 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


GARDEN WORK. 

Conservatory. — Herbaceous Calceolarias 
should now be placed in 7-ineli pots, in which 
they will make fine specimens. Use for soil 
equal parts of good loam and leaf-mould, 
with some sand to keep it open. The pots 
should be well drained. Calceolarias do not 
require to be potted quite so firmly as Pelar¬ 
goniums. Show Pelargoniums, if fine speci¬ 
mens arc wanted, may have a further shift, 
but they flower best when not over-potted. 
A somewhat similar compost will suit these 
plants, but a little old cow-manure, if avail¬ 
able, may be used instead of so much leaf- 
mould, and pot firmly. Calceolarias should 
have rather a shady position in a cool-house 
when the sun gains power, but Pelargoniums 
should be near the glass, and not crowded 
together, with a night temperature of 50 degs. 
If the water is pure, the syringe may be used 
freely on fine days, and iF any insects appear 
vaporise the house with nicotine. To do 
Pelargoniums well a light house with stages 
near the glass should be given up to them, 
and when the plants come into flower move 
them to the conservatory, and they will take 
the place of the Azaleas. The house will be 
gay now with Azaleas and bulbs. The best 
time for Roses in pots is in February and 
March, though forced Roses may he had in 
bloom all winter, but the flowers lack the sub¬ 
stance and brightness which they have a little 
later, when the days are lengthening, and 
the sunshine helps to do the work. Where 
there is in pots a good collection of Roses 
which have been rather hard pruned, if long¬ 
stemmed flowers are wanted, and the plants 
brought on in succession, there should be 
plenty of flowers for cutting. The best for¬ 
cing-house for Roses is a low one furnished 
with a pit filled with leaves. Cut back 
Fuchsias and bring them on in bent, repot¬ 
ting as soon as the buds start. Cuttings of 
the young shoots will root freely now' in 
bottom-heat. Young plants that were struck 
in August will now be ready for 5-inch pots. 
Keep them in a warm house near the glass ; 
place a stake in the centre of each plant, and 
pinch the side shoots to make perfect pyra¬ 
mids. Repot Scarborough Lilies, if very 
much pot-bound, but these bulbs will flower 
best when a little pot-bound, so will not re¬ 
quire repotting very often if helped during 
the growing and flowering season with liquid- 
manure. Sow Mignonette for spring 
blooming. 

Forcing-house. —Start Tuberous Begonias 
somewhat thickly in boxes, and transfer to 
pots according to size when they stnrt into 
growth. Sow seeds of Begonias, both 
Tuberous and fibrous-rooted kinds. The lat¬ 
ter are used a good deni in the flower garden 
now. and if seeds are sown at once, nrid the 
seedlings pricked out when ready, they will 
be large enough to plant out early in June, 
and will make good masses. The Trumpet 
Lilies which have not been in the cold 
chaml>er will be coming on now in a tem¬ 
perature of 60 degs. or so. Keep a close 
watch for green fly, and vaporise or use some 
liquid insecticide when the first fly appears. 
When the insects work into the heart of the 
plant they are rather difficult to clear out, 
but they must be got rid of, or they will 
spoil the flowers. Cuttings of many things 
wilt be available, and working up stock will 
be comparatively easy now where there are 
warmth and a plunging bed. Vines may be 
struck from eyes now. Keep them cool for a 
time, till the wounds are partly healed. 
There is no better way of striking Vine eyes 
than starting them in sods of turf, each from 
3 inches to 4 inches square. Make a little 
cavity in the centre of each sod, place an eve 
therein in a mixture of leaf-mould and sand, 
leaving the eye or bud just visible. 

Work with hot-beds. -There is some 
economy where much of this kind of forcing 
is done in making up hot beds in blocks. 
Material is saved, and tile heat remains 
longer in the beds. The only disadvantage 
of it is it takes two people to move the 
lights, hut the work is done more quickly, so 
there is not much loss. If hot-beds are well 
made two crops can be^^al^en from crush bed. 
Early Potatoes, Carrots, or/ ijettcara lat>be 
planted When AsparagiVxJmel off, Vuhcn 


the Potatoes and Carrots come off Capsicums, 
Cucumbers, Tomatoes, and we have had a 
crop of green Ginger from a pit after Aspara¬ 
gus, and very well the Ginger grew; the 
fleshy, underground rhizomes were made 
into a delicious preserve. There are no 
Lettuces equal to a Lettuce grown under 
glass in early spring. Radishes may he taken 
as a catch crop, as they come off early. Of 
course, the manure and leaves are fermented 
in a heap and thoroughly prepared, and all 
dry spots should he moistened before the 
bed is made, and the required firmness 
should be given by treading or beating with 
a fork, and the sides built up perpendicularly, 
so that the whole top of the bed is available 
for work. Loosely constructed beds soon get 
hot, and soon part with the heat, and are, in 
fact, of very little use. 

Melons, early. —If there is a small warm- 
house, with a comfortable bottom heat, 
Melons may now be planted. The hills of 
soil should consist of good, somewhat adhe¬ 
sive, loam, made rather firm. If the plants 
are confined to a single stem, trained to a 
trellis or wires within a foot or so of the 
glass, the plants may be set out about 
feet apart, and there should be no stop¬ 
ping till the main stem is about 18 inches 
from the ridge. By that time side shoots will 
be thrown out, and these will soon show 
fruits, which must in due course, when the 
flowers are expanded, and the pollen of the 
male blossoms ripe and dry, be set, as the 
gardener terms the operation. Some people 
use the camel’s-hair brush, but most gar¬ 
deners simply pluck off a suitable male blos¬ 
som, twist off the corolla, and thrust the 
pistil inside tile fruiting flower, and leave it 
there to do its work. There should be a 
night temperature of 65 degs., with a genial 
condition as regards moisture. Try and 
set enough fruits for a crop all together. If 
one fruit gets a decided lead the others may 
not swell properly; when the crop is 6et and 
swelling liquid-manure may be given. In 
house culture it is not often the disease 
known as canker gives trouble, if the tem¬ 
perature is regular. Give a little ventilation 
early in the morning ami - close early. 
Melons should not want shading. 

Figs in pots. Disbud all surplus shoots, 
and pinch nil shoots loft for second crop 
when five perfect leaves have been made. In 
pinching the leaders, simply apply pressure 
with thumb and finger, to destroy the tissues, 
and there will not be much bleeding. Give 
liquid-manure and syringe freely, if the water 
is pure. Night temperature 60 degs. to 
65 degs., and ventilate at 70 degs. to 75 degs. 
Close early and damp down. 

Flowers for the house. Bulbs are plenti¬ 
ful now, and such things as Narcissi, Hya¬ 
cinths, Freesias, etc., may be turned out of 
pots and placed in vases mossed in. Large 
vases may lie used where masses of Narcissi, 
etc., are wanted. A few good specimen 
Azaleas will last some time, with Palms and 
FeriKs for greenery. 

Outdoor garden. —Where hardy plants arc 
used for permanent edgings round flower¬ 
beds it will soon be time to replant them. 
These will include variegated and small 
green-leaved Ivies and Euonynnis rndicans 
variegatus. These are permanent, edgings, 
and will only require a little trimming. 
Cerastium tomentosum forms a neat grey or 
white edging for summer, and should be re¬ 
planted, as if left more than one year it gets 
too wide, and is not so neat. The Aubrietias 
make pretty edging plants, and are charming 
in masses on the rockery among stones. A. 
purpurea is the old variety, but there arc 
newer forms now, including Broxbourne Lilac, 
Souvenir do W. Ingram, and others. The 
hardy Cyclamens, including Atkinsi, euro- 
pieum, liederiefolium, repandum, Coum, 
and libanotieum, are interesting plants. 
Select a shady spot, not too much overhung 
by trees, and work in plenty of good |>eat, 
leaf-mould, and sand, with a few stones, to 
afford shelter and keep in the moisture. 
These plants do best nestling among or near 
stones. When quite comfortable, they will 
fi'.'od freely. I remember a lot I had on the 
north side of a wall some years ago, where 
they flowered freely, ripened seeds, and 
numerous seedlings sprang up among the old 


G?0 


plants. A little top-dressing of light stuff 
was given annually. Hepaticas may be 
treated in the same manner. Forsytliia is 
one of the prettiest climbers for a wall or 
fence, and it makes a beautiful plant for 
covering an arch. Bulbs of the early-flower¬ 
ing species are now coming through the sur¬ 
face, and where manure was placed on beds 
and borders it may be pointed in. 

Fruit garden.- Nuts and Filberts are now 
in bloom, and any pruning which may Ik* re¬ 
quired may have attention. The Kentish 
system of pruning is the best where heavy 
crops of Nuts are wanted. This means keep¬ 
ing the centre of the bush open, and atten¬ 
tion is mainly directed to the production of 
feathery sprays, on which the Nuts form 
thickly. A Nut-walk or Nut-avenue is rather 
an interesting feature in a garden, even 
though it may not be so productive in Nuts 
as when the bushes are kept low. Rasp¬ 
berries, Logan Berries, and Blackberries may 
be planted now. Give them a well broken up 
and manured site, and mulch with good 
manure, but do not dig among them after¬ 
wards. They bear best planted in rows 6 feet 
apart, trained to wires. Blackberries may 
be planted in clumps and trained tb poles, 
after the manner of Hops, but dwarfer poles 
should be used, for the convenience of gather¬ 
ing the fruits. Those who are afraid of the 
Gooseberry mildew should spray the bushes 
with a solution of Gishurst compound or 
something suitable. A sprinkling of lime 
may follow the spraying, whilst damp. If 
any grafting is intended to be done this com¬ 
ing spring, grafts should be selected and laid 
in in damp soil in the shade, to keep the buds 
dormnnt. When a fine, sunny day comes, 
stir the manurinl surface among the Straw¬ 
berries. New beds may be planted next 
month, if required. 

Vegetable garden.— If Onions are sown 
outside in spring, the ground may receive a 
top-dressing of soot and a small quantity of 
salt, not exceeding 1 lb. per square yard, 
and lightly forked in. Most gardeners sow 
at least a part of their crop under glass, as 
the bulbs are heavier and ripen sooner than 
when sown outside ; and, what is of equal im¬ 
portance, they escape the maggot, but a few 
rows may be sown for drawing young if they 
are required. Sow these towards the end of 
February or very early in March, when the 
soil works cleanly. Ground should be made 
firm by treading. Introduce Soak ale, Rhu¬ 
barb, and Asparagus as required for succes¬ 
sion to a temperature of 55 degs. to 60 degs. 
where the light is subdued for Rhubarb, and 
altogether in the dark for Seakale, and to be 
kept quite close. The last bed of Seakale 
will be reserved for coming on naturally 
without any forcing, the crowns to be covered 
a foot or so deep with light sandy soil. We 
have blanched Seakale with burnt earth and 
siTted ashes. It is an advantage if the 
crowns are covered with pots. Six-inch pots 
will do, covering them and the pots com¬ 
pletely* with soil. As soon as the early bor¬ 
der is in condition for working. Peas, Beans, 
Horn Carrots, and Radishes can be sown, and 
a few early Potatoes planted. Little and 
often is the best way of keeping up a suc¬ 
cession of early things. E. Hobday. 

THE COMING WEEK’S WORK. 

Kxlracts from a Carden Diary. 

February 77//#.—Pruned Ivy on walls, edg¬ 
ings, and fences, cutting it in close with the 
shears on walls. We always keep a few 
young plants of various sorts of Ivies in 
stock, some of the best being in pots ready 
for moving at any time. Cuttings of Ivies are 
inserted from time to time, to keep up stock. 
The same course is ndopted with Honey¬ 
suckles, Jasmines, Virginian Creepers, and 
other climbers likely to be wanted. 

February 18th. —Autumn-struck cuttings of 
Pelargoniums are now being potted off 
singly into small pots. Planted a new hardy 
plant border chiefly with flowering plants 
that will be useful for cutting. In this bor¬ 
der the grouping system has been adopted, 
Cuttings of Chrysanthemums are taken from 
time, .to time-ns good cuttings can be obtained. 
Heliotropes and other soft-wooded plants are 
also bejng propagated. 




GAR D UA'LjYU IL L UST RATED. 


l'KHliUAliY 10, 1908 


C80 


February 19th .—We have just finislted cut¬ 
ting the last of the Chrysanthemum flowers. 
They have lasted well, and some of the old 
plants from which cuttings have been taken 
have been thrown out. A few of the healthy 
vouug plants, of which we have always a few 
late struck in 5-incli and 6-inch pots, will lie 
reserved and potted on to make large hushes 
for Ihe conservatory next autumn. The same 
course is adopted with scarlet Salvias when 
very large plants are wanted. 

February 20th.— All the show and fancy 
Pelargoniums are now in the flowering pots, 
and arranged on a stage near the glass with 
a night temperature of 50 degs. The water¬ 
ing will be in very careful hands. Over¬ 
watering now will be fatal. Top-dressed 
several Cedars on the lawn with rich com¬ 
post. in which good loam forms the chief 
part. Several new things which were not 
quite happy have had a trench made round 
them and filled up with good soil. 

February 21*t. —Several old Laurels and 
other things that were originally planted as 
nurses have been removed, being no longer 
required. It is a mistake, I think, to plant 
nurses. The course we adopt now is to fill 
up the borders with Lilies and herbaceous 
plants, which do no harm, and their flowers 
are useful. All plants that were disturbed 
by the late frost have been made firm. 

February 22ml. —A piece of land has been 
grubbed and cleared for extending a lawn. 
The ground has been manured and levelled, 
and will be sown with a good mixture of 
Grass seeds about the first week in April. By 
that time the seeds of the annual weeds will 
have germinated, and hoeing and raking will 
destroy them, leaving the Grass free from 
competition with weeds. Various early crops 
have been sown and planted in the kitchen 
garden. These early sowings are always 
made in small quantities. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

Qnestlons— Queries and answers are inserted (n 
Gardening free of charge if correspondents follow these 
rules: All communications should be clearly and concisely 
written on one side of the paper only, and addressed to 
the Editor of Garpx.ning, 17, Fumival-street, Uolbom, 
London, E. 6. Letters on business should be sent to the 
PnBLtsHRR. The name and address of the sender are 
required in addition to any designation he may desire to 
be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, 
each should be on a separate piece of pajwr, aiul not more 
than three queries should l>e sent at a time. Correspond 
dents should bear in mind that, as Gardening has to be 
sent to press some time in ad nance of date, queries cannot 
always be replied to in the issue immediately following 
the receipt of their communication. We do not reply to 
queries by post. 

Naming fruit.— Readers who desire our help in 
naming fruit should bear in mind that several specimens 
in diderent stages of colour and size of the same kind 
greatly assist in its determination. We have received from 
several correspondents single specimens of fruits for 
naming, these in many cases being unripe and other• 
wise poor. The differences between varieties of fruits are 
in many cases so trilling that it is necessary that three 
sjiecimens of each kind should be sent. We can undertake 
to name only four varieties at a time, and these only when 
the above directions are observed. 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

Arum Lily failing (Ilighweek).— We think that 
the roots of the Arum must he in a had state for the 
leaves to keep dying off. Your better plan will be 
to keep the soil somewhat drier than usual till April, 
and then turn the plant out cf the pot and carefully 
examine the condition of the roots. If many of them 
are dtcayed, all such must be cut away, and the 
plants be repotted in some good sweet soil. The 
smaller ones may also he repotted at the same time. 

Using bisulphide of carbon (Stephens, Tavis¬ 
tock).—When using bisulphide of carbon care should 
be taken that the fluid does not touch the plant, or 
It. will he injured. This insecticide has not been in 
use very long, and we are not aware that any ex¬ 
haustive experiments have been made as to the best 
mode of using it. Of course, the vapour from it will 
disseminate much more freely in a light porous soil 
than in a heavy clay. You should also make a trial 
of vaporlte. 

Begonias unhealthy (J. II. S.).-lt appears to us 
that The damage to the Bogonia-leavis is caused by 
what are usually referred to ns yellow thrips—insects 
so tiny that it is exceedingly difficult to see them. 
True, we could not And any thrips on the leaves sent, 
but the principal damage is caused when they are 
young, and as the leaves grow it develops. This pest 
is greatly on the increase throughout the country. 
An unduly dry atmosphere is particularly favourable 
to it. The best remedy is frequent vaporising. 

Gentian-seed (M. Olirer ).—Sow the seeds at once 
in fine sandy loam in a box. and place in cold green¬ 
house. Tin- surface .soil should be made quite level 
and moderately firm, and if covered with a thin layer 
of sand, so much the better. On this sow the seeds 
thinly and evenly, an<Lagover with the—flneat-sifted 
soil of a very sandy rfatuFe. Jhe botriusL be well 
drained \uth rooks oilsm^tfcjlder Me surface 


will be be*t if covered with glass or slate# to stay 
evaporation until germination of the seeds has taken 
place. Without knowing to what species of Gentian 
you refer, we cannot give you much information. 
The seeds may not even vegetate this year, and may 
do so in a few weeks. Should the former ensue, do 
rot discard the seed-box for eighteen months or so. 
See reply to " G. G.,” re ** Seeds and seed-sowing," 
in our next is=ue. 

Paraffin emulsion (Stephens. Tavistock).- Dis¬ 
solve 2 lb. of soft-soap in 2 quarts of boiling water 
in an old saucepan, and when removed from the fire, 
but st ill boiling hot, pour in a pint of paraffin oil, 
and with a syringe keep churning the mixture until it 
is one mass of lather. Then add ten times its body 
of water and it is fit for use. When using it, first 
work it well through a syringe to ensure its being 
well mixed. Wash the plants with clear water 
twenty-four hours after you have dressed them with 
the mixture. 

Pilmy Ferns (-4. E. Evers).— These will thrive in 
moist spots in a warm fernery, and are equally at 
home in a cool-house. We lmvc also seen them grow¬ 
ing vigorously in an unheated pit, with the protection 
of a mat in sharp, frosty weather, while as orna¬ 
ments in a Wardian-ease in dwelling rooms they are 
unequalled. Wherever grown, the sun’s rays should 
not reach them, but do not shade with green glass 
or the beauty of their elegant fronds will be de¬ 
stroyed. Filmy Ferns enjoy moist air, their fronds 
like to be frequently bedewed with the syringe, while 
the roots must be kept wet, but water should never 
stand about them. The soil should be good spongy 
peat, a little loam, and some sharp river-sand. 

Tropaeolum tuberosum ( Jack W. B.).— This is a 
tuberous-rooted climber from Peru, with slender steins 
2 feet to 4 feet high, and bearing during the summer 
a profusion of showy scarlet and yellow flowers. It 
should he grow n iri open spots on the poorest of soils, 
allowing its branches to trail along the ground, or 
you can support them in any way you care to. As it 
Is not hardy in all soils, it is advisable to lift the 
tubers in the autumn, storing them in a dry place 
and planting out in the spring. The tubers, when 
boiled like Carrots or Potatoes, are watery and rather 
unpleasant to the taste. In Bolivia, where the plant 
is largely grown in high mountain districts, the people 
freeze the tubers after boiling them, and they are then 
considered a delicacy and are largely consumed. In 
other places they are eaten in a half-dried state after 
having been hung up in nets and exposed to the air 
for some time. 

Growing the Scarborough Lily (Valotta) 

Mcmr).—(1) A pot inches or 5 inches in diameter 
is very suitable for a single hull) of the Valotta. 

(2) Plant the bulb at once, or you may probably ob¬ 
tain one from a nursery already established in a pot. 

(3) After potting, the bulb will not require to be 
placed in the dark or plunged, but simply stood in a 
light position in the window. Only a little water will 
be needed till the leaves push up, when more may be 
given. Our suggestion with regard to obtaining a 
plant from a nursery is based on the fact that the 
Valotta, under normal conditions, is now in full 
grow th, and we do not think you w ill get n dormant 
bulb. At all events, if you do, it will be weakened 
l>y being kept so long out of the ground. You may 
give the Jacobean Lily the same treatment, except 
that the bulb must be kept drier during the winter, 
for at no lime must the soil in which the Valotta is 
growing be allowed to lx*roine absolutely dry. Dur¬ 
ing the latter part of the summer and In autumn 
the Jacobean Lily must be fully exposed to the -sun. 
Plenty of water must be given during its season of 


Gooseberry - caterpillars (Blackthorn). — Well 
dust the lower portions of the hushes with soot and 
lime, doing it in an upward direction, and, of course, 
directly the pest is noticed. Use the soot and 
lime in equal proportions. This brings all the cater¬ 
pillars down to the ground, when a second dust¬ 
ing can be given them, which proves fatal. This 
checks any further progress, and the few fruits which 
unavoidably become covered with the mixture are 
easily washed before being used. 

Protecting fruit blossoms (H\ ft.).— We have 
round that a double thickness of herring-netting is ns 
good as anything that can be used, as this can be 
put up and allowed to remain until the young fruits 
are swelling freely. The little light such nets may 
obstruct is in no way detrimental to the trees, 
whereas hexagon netting or tiffany is much too close 
and ought never to be left down during the day, 
unless the weather is exceptionally cold. To let this 
tiffany up and down every day takes up a deal of 
time, and either pulleys or curtain-rings must he 
attached to it to enable one to do this. Whatever 
you use, see to it that it does not come into contact 
with the blossoms. In the case of the herring-nets 
you can get Bamboo-canes of the necessary length, 
and fix them in a slanting position from the top of 
the paling, fixing the other end firmly into the 
ground. Over this you can conveniently lay the nets, 
fixing them to the top of the wall and nllowing then) 
to rest on the Bamboo-poles and touch.the ground, 
where they can he secured by wooden pegs. W. 
know one garden In which this plan is annually 
adoptixl, and a crop of Peaches and Nectarines is 
secured every season. 

VEGETABLES. 

Orache (P- B. J.).—The leaves of this are eaten 
boiled, like Spinach. Sow the seed in the open 
ground, where the plants are to stand, in the early 
part of March, in drills. When the seedlings have 
made three or four leaves they should be thinned 
out, no further attention being necessary than occa¬ 
sional watering In dry weather. The plants run very 
quicklv to seed, and on this account it is advisable 
to make sucoesMonal sowings about every four weeks. 

Onion mildew (Anxious One ).—Without doubt, 
the browning of the tops of your Onion-plants is due 
to an attuck of the too-well-known Onion mildew or 
fungus. Two forms of dressing are adxised for appli¬ 


cation to Onions. One is spraying with the sulphute 
of copper and lime solution, with which are mixed 
treacle or soft-soap, to make it adhesive, and flowers 
of .sulphur. Owing to the peculiarly pointed, rounded, 
and erect form of the smooth leaves of Onions it is 
very difficult to got any kind of application to ad¬ 
here, for, unless it does for several days, it fails to 
combat or destroy the mildew. We have seen it in 
very bad form on breadths in gardens where the 
most-experienced Onion-growers are in charge, bin 
they iiave found it difficult to combat. If you pur¬ 
pose applying a dusting of sulphur to your Onions 
next .summer, you should not wait until evidences of 
the mildew are seen, but should spray the plants 
with a thick, soapy liquid, then dust freely with 
sulphur whilst they are still damp. 

Cropping vegetable garden (Amateur).— It is 
useless to put out Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Kales, 
or Savoy Cabbages now, even if such plants could be 
obtained; hut if you can get good, sturdy Cabbage- 
plants, put those out at once, though rather closer 
together than usual, as the heads in the spring will 
not be large. Rows may be 18 inches apart, and the 
plants in ihe rows 12 inches apart. Your best course 
now to obtain crops as early as possible is to sow at 
once early Long Pod Beans, early Peas, Radishes (the 
seeds being well netted over), early Shorthorn Car¬ 
rot, and round rooted Beet; other crops, such as 
more Beans. Peas, Carrots, Parsnips, Onions, Beet, 
Turnips, Cabbage, Lettuce, Cauliflower, and other 
things, may follow in due course, and thus your 
garden will soon be fully cropped. If you have no 
Rhubarb, get roots of that and plant now. You may 
also plant roots of Seakale, which will conic in for 
forcing next Christmas. A bed of Asparagus can be 
planted in April next. 


SHORT REPLIES. 

D. Millar. —Without seeing the garden it is lm|>os- 
slble to advise. Your best plan will be to consult 
some gardener friend, who can visit the garden and 
tell you what you had best do. You give no dimen¬ 
sions to help us in any way.- (J. (J .—We fear you 

will have little success with your lawn unless you 
have it thoroughly drained. The shaded position, too, 

is all against it.- Mrs. Leahy.—You will not find all 

the subjects you inquire about dealt with in any one 
book. Perhaps the ** Villa Garden ” would answer 

your purpose.- Birkclt .—You will find ail article 

dealing fully with the Japanese pigmy trees In our 
issuo of July 4th. 1903. p. 225. 4. Write to Messrs. 

Barr and Sons, 12, King-street. Covent Garden. 6, 
Write to J. Smith and Son, The Nurseries, Darlcy 
Dale, Matlock. All Heaths require peat. 7, ihe Com¬ 
mon Yew is Taxus baccata, T. baceata var. fusti- 
giata being the Florence Court or Irish Yew. a plant 
of rigid growth, and (olumnar in form. When send¬ 
ing queries, please read our rules as to the number 
we undertake to answer in any one week.—— P. B. J. 
—No; we have never heard of the American New¬ 
town Pippin being successfully grown in England. 

None of our English nurserymen catalogue it.- 

H’ m . a. Jeffrey — You ran buy weed killer much more 

cheaply than you can make it.-Ken.—The leaves 

are eaten up with red spider and thrips. You are 
keeping the house far too dry, while the plants are 
evidently too dry at the roots as well. Of course, the 
oil stove may be partly the cause, but the main 

cause is an over-dry atmosphere.- II.—1. Far better 

leave the root-pruning until the autumn now. 2, Yes, 
if the weather is open and you carefully attend to 
the trees. See article on “Planting fruit-trees," in 
our issue of February 1st, p. G44. 4, Not in your 

district.- Mrs. Tayler.-See reply to "An Old 

Header," re “ Caustic alkali solution," in our issue 
of January 25th, p. 640.- W. SmnUman .-You can¬ 

not do better than get Cheltenluim Green-top Beet. 

- Interested.— You should test the inoculation of 

the soil for yourself. You can purchase the nitro¬ 
bacteria from Messrs. Jas. Carter and Co., 237-288. 
High Holborri, W.C., with full instructions on the 
packets as to mode of using.— B.— Write to M. 

Besson, Pepinieriste, Califomie. Nice.- Anxious.— 

See reply to “ Paignton." re " Treatment of d_warf 
Japanese trees," in our issue of July 6th, 1907, p. 
245, a copy of which cau be had from the publisher, 

price lid., post free.- Hicksgate.— 1, We doubt very 

much if you will be able to purchase Orchid-seed 
from any seedsman. 2, You will have to make more 
than one sowing, as so much depends on the season. 
Raise some in pots, and plant out and also sow -in 
tlie open ground.-:—Amateur.—See reply to " Sub¬ 
scriber." rc “ Pruning Clematis montana,” in our 
issue of February 8th, p. 666. 


NAMES OF PLANTS AND FRUITS. 

Name of plant — E. C .—Probably the fruiting 
Duckweed (Nertera depressn); please eend flowers or 
fruit. _ 


Catalogues received.— Walter T. Pratt, Dudley. 
—Price List of Pigeon-fanciers’ Appliances and .Marti- 

cultural Requisite*. -J. Forbes. Hawick .—Plant 

Catalogue for 190/1. -D. M. Andrews, Boulder, 

Colorado, U.S.A .—Seeds of Hare Flowers from the 

Rocky Mountains of Colorado. -Dohie and Mason, 

22, Oak-street, Manchester .-Vegetable and Flower 

Seed*. -G. W. King and Co., Coggeshall, Essex.— 

High Class Seeds. 

Book received.— " R.H.S. Book of Arrangement* 
for 1908: Part I., Report of the Council, with State¬ 
ment of Accounts; Part II., List of Council, Officers, 
Fellows, ete."_ 

Moles—Can any reader tell me of any method of 
getting rid of these animals? Two years ago 1 made 
a lawn from seed, and got it into fairly good order, 
but in a very short time it was practically destroyed 
by moles. As fast as their ravages are repaired the 
surface and edges are again ruined. At first I eaoght 
a few with the* ordinary iron-trap, hut have since 
been quite unsuccessful. — SruscHiREP.. 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 

No. 1,511. —\ OL. XXIX. Founded by iV. Robinson, Author of “ The English Flotccr Garden." FEBRUARY 22, 1908. 


IN DEX. 


Aprl : April Queen .. 682 | UhryBaiithenmuiB. exhi- 

Applea falling prema- biting.698 

turely.632 I Chrysanthemums, six 

Azaleas after flowering 690 good decorative, for 

Beech-disease .. .. 688 I late October and 

Birds .691 early November flow- 

Brass ion family, the 681 ering .691 

Broccoli, failing.. .. 692 , Clover in tennis-lawn .. 691 

Bulbs after flowering .. 686 Cjneflower, the Showy.. 687 

Celery-fly and maggot. Conservatory 690 

the . 683 Eucalyptus Beauchamp- 

Chards. 692 iana 695 

Cherry, Morello, pm- Euonymus Sieboldi- 

ningthe. 692 anus 685 

Chrysanthemums .. 688 Mowers for cutting .. 690 

Chrysanthemums for Flowers, early spring, in 

cutting. 688 the house .. .. 688 

Chrysanthemums for Forget-me-nots .. .. 687 

decoration .. .. 688 Fruit .681 


FRUIT. 


MANURING OF ORCHARDS. 

Next to pruning, the manuring of orchard 
fruit-trees receives but scant attention, and 
in numberless instances is entirely neglected. 
In cither case, the natural result is the same, 
for sooner or later the soil in the vicinity of 
the trees becomes impoverished, unmistak¬ 
able signs of exhaustion follow, which are 
seen by a falling off in the size and gradual 
deterioration of the quality of the fruit, the 
yield decreases, and, finally, the trees cease 
to make growth, and become next to value¬ 
less. This may be looked upon by some as 
an extreme case, but numbers of such in¬ 
stances have at various times come under my 
notice where disaster might have been averted 
by a timely and regular manuring of the 
trees. It is when they come into full bear¬ 
ing that the trees need assistance at the 
roots, and if this is afforded it will maintain 
them in vigorous bearing condition for years. 
There are, of course, cases where the natural 
fertility of the 6oil is so good that it supplies 
the trees with all they require for years 
without extraneous aid in the shape of either 
artificial or animal manures ; but such in¬ 
stances are few and far between. Where 
orchards or, to speak more correctly in this 
case, fruit plantations are under spade culti¬ 
vation, there is less liability of the legitimate 
occupants becoming starved, because it is 
then usual to grow some other crop, such as 
bush fruits or vegetables, between the trees. 
The roots, therefore, benefit to some extent 
from the manure that is dug in for their 
needs annually, but although manure is 
carted in for the under-crops named, it is 
nothing unusual to find the requirements of 
the fruit-trees ignored altogether by many. 
The worst cases of neglect are seen where 
orchards are formed upon sward. If the 
Grass is fed off by sheep or cattle, the roots 
then receive some small amount of food, but 
unless cake and hay are afforded in addition, 
the return in the 6hape of manure is very 
inadequate, or not at all commensurate with 
the demands that are constantly being made 
on the soil constituents by the root system 
of trees in full bearing. 

Artificial manures should always supple¬ 
ment those derived from the animals,, and 
are best applied during the winter months. 
When a crop of hay is taken from Grass 
orchards year after year, matters are still 
worse, and a point should then always be 
made of giving each tree a good dressing of 
farmyard manure or an equivalent every 
year. In addition to this, the turf for 
2 inches or 3 inches in depth may be pared 
off, chopped up, and mixed with the manure 
and returned after pricking up the hard 
soil overlying the roots to the depth of a few 
inches. For this to be thoroughly effective 
the turf should be removed to as far as the 
branches extend in every case, without ex¬ 
ception. Where the removal of the tlrf is 

Digitizes by GO glC 


Fruit garden .. 69) Loniccra fragrant iKsinia 685 

Fruit-trees, manuring .. 691 Marguerite Daisy - fly, 

Fruit - treefl, pruning the .691 

newly-planted.. .. 693 Orange leaves dirty .. 692 

Fuchsias. 689 Orchards, manuring of.. 681 

Garden diary, extracts Outdoor garden.. .. 693 

from a. 690 Outdoor plants .. .. 683 

Gardenias, pruning .. 69L Pear Bergamotte d'Es- 

Gardon peats and peren .681 

friends. 868 Pear 8t. Luke .. .. 682 

Garden work .. .. 693 Peas, Sweet .. .. 686 

Genistas dropping their Peas, Sweet, iu tubs or 

flowers. 689 large pots .. .. 693 

Indoor plants .. 689 Plants and flower* .. 696 

Lawn, top-dres3ing a .. 691 Plants, hard-woode 1 .. 690 

Lettuce.681 Plants, removing .. 691 

Libertia fonnosa 687 Plumy Rockspruy (C>- 

Lilium chalcedonieum toneaster horizon- 

in pots. 686 talia) .685 

not permissible, the next best thing is to 
apply the dressing from the surface, and 
most liberally. Queries are often sent in 
asking what, is best to be done with the con¬ 
tents of rubbish heaps. Those in possession 
of orchards need not look far to find ways 
and means for the disposal of such, because 
if the mass is turned thoroughly a few times 
and lime and burnt soil so incorp< rated with 
it, it is not to be despised as a top-dressing 
for the purpose under consideration, and if 
laid over the roots from 2 inches to 3 inches 
in thickness, the roots will soon feed up into 
it. The contents of sewage tanks can also be 
disposed of in Grass orchards and fruit plan¬ 
tations, and, if applied when the trees are 
dormant, they can be used at greater strength 
than is consistent with safety during the 
growing season. Where the soil is very hard 
it is a good plan to make holes with a crow¬ 
bar from 2 feet to 3 feet deep under the 
trees, which will allow the liquid to perco¬ 
late the more freely amongst the roots. The 
season is getting rather advanced for carry¬ 
ing some of the foregoing suggestions into 
effect, yet where they apply, and the necessi¬ 
ties of the case are urgent, there should be no 
hesitation in the matter, as it is far better to 
be somewhat late than to defer the work till 
next winter, or, perhaps, to an indefinite 
period. _G. P. K. 

PEAR BERGAMOTTE D’ESPEREN. 
This Pear, though not giving universal satis¬ 
faction, is, where it does succeed, a valuable 
late variety, coming into use during January, 
and remaining available for a long period 
afterwards. Last year a large espalier tree 
bore a good average crop, which was allowed 
to hang late before being gathered. The 
fruits are now being used daily, and at the 
time this note is being written, January 
24th, there are sufficient on hand to last 
another fortnight or three weeks to come. 
It is a medium-sized Pear only when grown 
under ordinary conditions; but when 
accorded special cultivation, with the addi¬ 
tion of the shelter or warmth afforded by a 
wall facing south-west or west, very fine 
examples can then be had. Beyond the 
shape, which is distinct and a characteristic 
of the variety, there is nothing striking in the 
appearance of the fruit, for the skin is dull- 
looking and of a greenish-yellow colour, ex¬ 
cept under special circumstances, when it 
becomes faintly coloured with light red. 
This imperfection is at once overlooked and 
forgotten when the rich, juicy, high-flavoured 
flesh of a well-ripened specimen is first tasted. 
It is a hardy, vigorous-growing variety, and 
bears most abundantly ; and so much is this 
the ease that in some instances thinning has 
to be done with a free hand. It may be 
grown in any form of tree, but in all the less 
favoured districts as regards climate, it is 
best to give it the protection of a wall. 

It was raised some seventy-odd years ago 
by Major Esperen, of Malines, so "that it is 
anything but a new variety. Mr. C. Dixon, 
of Holland House Gardens, Kensington, on 


Plants, winter salad .. 6S3 Sowing annuals, etc. .. 691 

Potato Up-to-Dalo ,. 683 Slophanotia, cutting 

Rhubarb, forcing .. 681 back . 691 

Room and window .. 633 Stove .690 

Rose Starlight .. .. 689 St. Johns Wort, the .. 685 

Rosea . 689 Tree.3 and shrubs £85 

Roses for market from Twixt the winter and 

a pergola .. .. 689 the spring .. .. 686 

Roses, pruning climb- Vegetable garden ., 090 

ing .691 Vegetables .. .. 683 

Roses, the eighteen best Vine - borders, making 

exhibition .. .. 689 new .. .. ..690 

Royal Horticultural Vine-weevil, grubs of .. 688 

Society.631 Violet-fungus .. .. 688 

8 hrubs for seaside .. 685 Viulew on north bor- 

Skirret . 692 der .686 

Spinach.684 Week's work, the com- 

Spirsuas, the horba- ing .690 

coons. 687 Women as gardeners .. 682 

several occasions within the last five or six 
years, exhibited this Rear in excellent con¬ 
dition at the Royal Horticultural Society’s 
fortnightly (shows, and at the Pear Confer¬ 
ence held at Chiswick in 1884 it was shown 
by a great many exhibitors. The name also 
figures largely iu some of the lists of “se¬ 
lected varieties” cent iu by exhibitors for 
the different groups of comities iu which they 
resided on that occasion. A. W. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Manuring fruit-trees. - Kindly tell me how 
often it is advisable to apply to my fruit-trees — 
Apples ami Pears as bushes, and about twenty years 
old-a dressing of artificial manure? I have just 
given them one. Is that sufficient? Also, I should 
like to know what value can be attached to the ad¬ 
vice given in Du Breuil's book on fruit-trees, as to 
applying sulphate of iron to the branches or even the 
fruit? Is the flavour affected? Thanking vou for the 
help you have formerly given me.—11. N. 11. 

[The application of any description of 
manure to fruit-trees must‘be guided by the 
existing condition of the trees. If they make 
strong wood growth, and show’ comparative 
luxuriance, then the trees do not want 
manure, as any such dressings would but 
conduce to greater wood production. When 
such conditions prevail, root pruning becomes 
a necessity if trees are to be brought into a 
fruitful state. But if the trees be stunted 
in growth, seem exhausted through having 
recently produced heavy crops of fruit, and 
the wood growth is weak, then manure dress¬ 
ings are badly needed. Generally also such 
dressings, vvhether of animal or artificial 
manures, should be given to trees when 
carrying crops of fruit, as then the trees are 
greatly assisted at a time of stress. If you 
have given your tree roots a dressing of arti¬ 
ficial manure at. the rate of 4 oz. to the square 
yard just recently, that should suffice for the 
present, but as the trees- are twenty years 
old, the rooks are, no doubt, deep, and some 
time may elapse ere they feel the benefit of 
the dressing. If after growth begins, and 
fruit is set, the trees seem weak or stunted, 
give a further dressing then, and a third 
one a few w’eeks later. These summer dress¬ 
ings, however, should be washed in by a 
liberal watering, to render the manure 
soluble. With strong growth manure is not 
needed, as such wood growth does not con¬ 
duce to fruitfulness. M. Du Breuil’s advice 
as to the application of sulphate of iron to 
Apple-treevs is probably based on the assump¬ 
tion that its presence in the soil conduces to 
colour in the fruit. It is a subject with re¬ 
spect to wdiich or ns to producing flavour in 
fruit there are no reliable data.] 

Apple April Queen. Just rm cully 1 re¬ 
ceived from Mr. Baylor llart-land. of Gork, 
fruits of ail Apple which he has designated 
April Queen, and holds in great esteem as 
a heavy cropper and a good keeper. The 
fruits, so soon as I saw them, reminded 
me at once of those of Wajtham Abbey Seed¬ 
ling. of which variety I had a large standard 
tree at Bedfont, where: it was an animal 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 































682 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


February 22, 1008 


cropper—one half of the tree, oddly enough, 
cropping one year, the other half the next 
year. Waltham Abbey Seedling was raised 
m 1810 from a seed of Golden Noble by Mr. 
Barnard, of Waltham Abbey, and it was in¬ 
troduced to the Royal Horticultural Society 
in 1821. How it came about that this dis¬ 
tinct Apple should have been often con¬ 
founded with Golden Noble is hard to under¬ 
stand, as fruits of the two varieties differ so 
materially. Dr. Hogg says of it: “I know 
of no variety that bears fruits so large, yet 
has foliage so small.” Yet I did not find that 
the foliage was specially so. However, it is 
one of those good-sized and most excellent 
cooking Apples too little known or grown. 
It is of somewhat conical form, eye rather 
deeply set, skin yellow when mature, and 
has on it a good deal of russet. It is an ex¬ 
cellent winter Apple. Of the variety sent 
from Cork, whether really Waltham Abbey 
Seedling or not—and I hope to get it pro¬ 
perly identified, if having a name—Mr. Hart- 
land writes that he wishes he had ten acres 
of trees of it now' to oppose the Canadian 
Apples.—A. D. 

PEAR ST. LUKE. 

Pear-growers in the United Kingdom have 
hitherto been largely indebted to Continental 


form of tree, as it is a good grower. Our 
only regret with regard to it is that it is 
not a January instead of an October-ripen- 
ing variety, for, had it been so, it would have 
proved a most valuable addition to the late 
sorts. 


WOMEN AS GARDENERS. 

To the Editor of Gardening Illustrated. 

SIR,—I do not advocate trenching and 
fother rough work as in itself an agreeable 
and suitable employment for women. On 
the contrary, I think it would be foolish, after 
going to the expense of a good education in 
advanced gardening, to spend much time in 
unskilled work, which could be done just as 
well by a cheap labourer. However, I have 
recently been engaged in making a kitchen 
garden out of part of a field, where the soil 
was so shallow that other good 6oil and 
manure, etc., had to be brought in carta and 
wheelbarrows to make up the required depth. 
To help me, I had a man and a boy, w’hom I 
had to instruct, and I took niv fair share of 
the work, doing everything except using a 
pickaxe. I have also assisted in making a 
Rose garden in which the poor soil had to be 
dug out to a depth of 2 feet. I have helped 
to make garden paths, and to transplant and 



Pear St. Luke. 


raisers for new varieties, those hailing from I 
a British source having been few and far ( 
between. However, within recent years a 
change has come about, and some English- | 
raised Pears have been placed before the 
public which, so far as can at present be 
eeen, seem destined to hold their own, and 
it is of one of these that we have pleasure in 
giving an illustration this week. This was 
raised by Mr. Rivers, of Sawbridgcworth, 
and is named St. Luke. As will be seen on 
referring.to the figure, it is a handsomely- 
shaped fruit, and in appearance not unlike 
Doyenne du Comice. The skin, where clear, 
is greenish-yellow in colour, but. as a rule, 
it is covered more or less with light b^own 
russet, a feature generally indicating good 
flavour, and which is the case in this particu¬ 
lar instance. It has a melting, juicy flesh, 
which is very highly flavoured. The fruits 
are in use during October, and though we 
have no authority whatever for 6aying so, 
should imagine that the reason why the 
raiser named this Pear was because the 
ripening of the fruit in the first instance was 
coincident with the falling of St. Luke’s Day, 
October 18th. So far. it is yet too early to 
speak definitely as to the best way of cultiva¬ 
ting this Pear; but. it will, no doubt, be 
found eventually iCosucreed iUpJvmin any 

nBigitizedby VjO QIC 


prune largo fruit-trees ; and I have worked 
out-of-doors in all kinds of weather, and have 
been out before the sun in winter, and at 
seven, six, and even four, in summer, though 
I do not say that I particularly enjoyed it. 
Had I to remove a bed of “shaly clay,” I 
could easily follow the example of your cor¬ 
respondent, and obtain the assistance of some 
“navvies,” which, in fact, is what 1 did on 
one occasion. Lest it should be supposed 
that I am unusually strong, I may say that 
I can readily name at least a dozen women 
gardeners who are greatly my superiors in 
j strength, and also in skill and knowledge. 

But the points which I particularly wish 
to emphasise are, first, that the practical 
work of an ordinary garden (which, after all. 
does not consist entirely, nor even chiefly, of 
excavation) can be, and is, done by women ; 
and, second, that horticultural colleges do 
give a thorough training. It is, if course, 
beside the question to compare a college with 
a really good private garden. No one should 
expect it to be a mere show place, since of 
necessity constant alterations and experi¬ 
ments are going on, and most of the work is 
i done by half-trained Btudents, who generalW 
j leave as soon as they are really competent. 

The botanical department, for instance, 
I could scarcely be regarded as a thing of 


beauty, though, I might add, that the col¬ 
lege with which I am best acquainted com¬ 
pares very favourably with most private gar¬ 
dens. Students at a good college do all the 
work mentioned by Mr. Groom, the authori¬ 
ties wisely considering that although the 
sfudents might not have to do it subsequently, 
they ought to know how it is done by actual 
practice, so that they might he able to guide 
their assistants. I cannot, of course, publish 
the names and addresses of successful women 
gardeners, but if your correspondent really 
wishes for information, he has only to apply 
to the college authorities, who, I am sure, 
would be only too pleased to enlighten him, 
though I cannot but suspect that the result 
would merely illustrate the old adage of “A 
man convinced against his will,” etc. 

I should be sorry to have it supposed that 
I judge all men gardeners by the two un¬ 
fortunate young men I have mentioned, 
though they are by no means the only cases 
which have come under my notice. On the 
contrary, I am acquainted with several men 
gardeners for whom I have the highest ad¬ 
miration and respect, and one, indeed, to 
whom I owe a great deal. But, in common 
with many other persons, I have often been 
struck by the exceedingly unintelligent way 
in which men gardeners are generally taught 
their business, and the large number of years 
which an unfortunate youth often spends in 
a “practical” establishment in order to ac¬ 
quire the mere rudiments of his art. But, 
after all, the opinions of “Observer” or 
anyone else cannot alter the fact that women 
gardeners are doing very good, though un¬ 
obtrusive, W’ork, and that they and horticul¬ 
tural colleges are improving yearly. The 
increasing demand for trained women gar¬ 
deners and the large number who go every 
year to colleges are facts which speak for 
themselves. But of these tilings “Observer” 
evidently knows nothing whatever, though 
anyone might prove the truth of my state¬ 
ments by applying to the authorities for in¬ 
formation, which is always most readily 
given, or by reading their statistics and re¬ 
ports of progress which have appeared over 
and over again in well-known papers, to¬ 
gether with well authenticated accounts of 
women who had been successful in the vari¬ 
ous branches taught by a good horticultural 
college. 

On the Continent |ieople seem to be belter 
informed, judging by the number of women 
who come each year to study at English col¬ 
leges and schools of gardening, from almost 
every' European countiy, to say nothing of 
New Zealand and America. 

Bertha F. H. Paul. 

-Quito an interesting correspondence 

has arisen since the remarks of “Observer” 
were published a short time since in the 
pages of Gardening Illustrated. Mr. 
James Groom voices the feelings of many 
who have spent more than the three j-oars 
which have qualified, apparently, some of the 
aspiring lady gardeners. Miss Paul says 
that after two or three years’ training in a 
college there arc many instances where lady 
gardeners have lx*en able to take important 
posts as head gardeners, with every satisfac¬ 
tion to their employers. With all due re¬ 
spect to Miss Paul, and her opinions, I take 
exception to her statements, viewed from a 
practical light. If it is possible for ladies 
to become so fully stored with gardening 
knowledge after two or three years’ training, 
how is it that intelligent men should require 
so many more years ere they feci sufficiently 
confident to seek head gardeners’ posts? The 
field of gardening is so vast that even with 
college cramming neither a man nor a woman 
can possibly lay up the store of knowledge 
which will satisfy themselves or their em¬ 
ployers, should they take on important 
charges. Miss Bertha F. II. Paul has a per¬ 
sonal acquaintance of two young men of ordi¬ 
nary intelligence, with six and ten years’ 
experience, one of whom could not prune a 
Rose, and the other such a fnilure ns to be 
quite unequal to garden employment at all. 
One is almost tempted to ask the question, 
“Does not Miss Paul know of two young 
ladies engaged in qualifying for gardeners’ 
posts who are equally slow in becoming ex¬ 
pert*?” I very much expect such cases are on 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 





Februauv 22 , 1908 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


683 


record. There are both men and women , 
with many more years of experience behind i 
them who do not know how to prune Roses 
properly. The pruning of Roses is by no 
means so easily learnt as your correspondent j 
appears to believe—at least, such is my 
experience. 

One point which is in danger or being over¬ 
looked is the fact that these lady students 
are, presumably, highly intelligent daughters 
of parents who can afford first-class educa¬ 
tional advantages, and thereby have a more 
rapid and ready grasp of matters, be they 
practical or scientific. It is not generous on 
Miss Paul’s part to quote two such poor in¬ 
stances; she might, to be fair, have looked 
a little wider for comparisons. Mr. Groom 
draws pictures of ladies engaged in digging, 
trenching, carrying fuel to the stoke-hole, j 
hot-bed making, and kindred work; but 
when the ground is covered with snow, and 
frost holds everything in its grip, how fit are 
women to gather from the garden all the 
necessary vegetables for a large household? 
Personally, I much prefer to dig, trench, and 
build hot beds, etc., than to gather wet and 
frosty vegetables day by day in all sorts of 
weathers. The class of lady students that 
are now clamouring after responsible posi- j 
tions as gardeners, would, as “Observer” I 


VEGETABLES. 


POTATO UP-TO-DATE. 

This remarkable Potato is, perhaps, of all 
varieties ever raised, not excepting the once 
famous Magnum Bonum, the best known and 
mast widely grown of any now in cultivation. 
It has rendered wonderful service both to 
growers and the nation at large as a great 
cropping and generally disease-resisting 
Potato. It was raised by that successful 
grower, Mr. Findlay, of Markiuch, Scotland. 
Its parentage has not. been disclosed, but at 
least it lias given birth to a great progeny, 
as so many other of the leading maincrop 
Potatoes of to-day have sprung from Up-to- 
Date. Their growth, tubers, and general 
habits tell that much. There is an opinion 
abroad that Up-to-Date is giving out, and 
becoming less productive. That opinion is 
probably due to the now too well-proved fact 
that in England, Potatoes generally do soon 
deteriorate, and the only chance of keeping 
stocks of even the most robust varieties up 
to natural strength seems to be found in 
getting them grown in Scotland or Ireland, 
both countries having great power—at least, 
at present—in creating in Potato stocks that 


That is the one thing which concerns all 
Celery growers; much more so, indeed, than 
do cultural details, because there are few 
who garden who do not manage, barring the 
maggot, to grow Celery pretty well. Then 
he mentions that overhead in the evenings of 
hot days he gives the leaves a good sprinkling 
of clear water. If that be so, is it not need¬ 
ful to follow' such sprinklings each evening 
with a fresh soot dusting and sprinkling with 
Quassia extrac t? Gardeners of great experi¬ 
ence have written of their troubles with the 
maggot, although they have tried every 
known remedy. Any real remedy for this 
trouble would be indeed a blessing.—A. D. 


WINTER SALAD PLANTS. 
Throughout the summer and during gonial 
weather it is an easy matter to have a good 
and constant supply of salad plants in gar¬ 
dens of all sizes, but as winter comes on the 
supply, both in quality and variety, shortens, 
I or, in many instances, ceases altogether. 
Sometimes the severity of the weather causes 
this; in other cases it is the fault of the 
cultivator in not doing liis utmost to extend 
the salad season as long as possible. The 
most tender kinds of summer Lettuces do 
not grow well late in autumn or early winter, 

I but there are special winter varieties which, 



Potato^ Up-to-Date. 


says, be better engaged in occupations more 
fitted to their stations in life; the ranks are 
already overcrowded, and the out-of-works 
too numerous. W. S. 

[The correspondence on the above subject 
must now cease.—E d.J 


Pruning newly planted fruit trees (E. ('.) 

A8 your wall fruit-trees have been so recently 
planted, it will be'well to cut back the strong 
growths on them to at least tne-half their length, 
and the inner or side shoots on main branches to one- 
third their length, if there be ample room for them 
between the main branches when nailed in. What is 
called fan-trained is the way Plums, Apricots, and 
Cherries arc grown against a wall. The object is not 
only to well fill the wall surface with branches, but 
also to prevent the formation of any erect branches. 
Those branches lowest on each side of a tree should 
he brought down and nailed to the wall 15 inches 
from the ground, then all others on each side 
brought over above in the same way,thus leaving the 
centre of the tree open. That will gradually fill up, 
new shoots being formed each year, and again bent 
over on each s*de. If you follow that course of 
training each winter, combined with just moderate 
pruning or thinning, your trees should do very well. 


“The English Flower Garden and Home 
Grounds ’— New Edition, 10th , revised , with descrip¬ 
tions of all the best plants, trees, and shrubs, their 
culture and arrangement, illustrated on wood. Cloth, 
medium 8oo, IBs .; post free, los. 6d. 

“The English Flower Garden M mayjilso be 
hast finely bound in 2 vols.,/uityv 
all booksellers. 


ower uarnen 

wls ., /afl* velUi m, ' 

Go 


vigour without which it seems useless to grow 
them. 

The Up-to-Date variety has for some years 
occupied the highest place in the estimation 
of market dealers and the general public, 
and seems likely to fill that position for some 
time. Of varieties that have followed ils 
introduction, some of the most favourer! arc 
Factor, Duchess of Cornwall, Dalineny 
Beauty, Conquering Hero. Warrior. Peck- 
over, Superlative, The Stoker, and Table 
Talk ; but these, fine croppers as they are, 
and all having fair disease-resisting qualities, 
yet, equally with Up-to-Date, seem so depen¬ 
dent on place of growth for the continuance 
of their best qualities. This fact is present¬ 
ing to all Potato growers, especially in Eng¬ 
land, a serious problem. The illustration 
shows a typical tuber of Up-to-Date, long, 
flattish, and handsome. In those respects 
the tubers of so many others closely resemble 
it. * A. 1). 

The Celery-fly and maggot. In a. note on 
this subject Mr. P. E. Cornish mentions that 
he sprinkles his Celery-leaves with extract of 
Quassia chips and soot; but, beyond saying 
at the outset of his note that lie had been 
very fortunate with his Celery lust year, he 
gives no information as to the effects of the 
Quassia and soot applications in keeping off 
the fly and consequent attacks of the maggot. 


ir planted in a sheltered position late in sum¬ 
mer, will continue to grow and keep fresh 
and good until far into winter. Those who 
possess a few frames or handlights with 
watertight roofs may keep Lettuces good dur¬ 
ing most of the winter. They should be 
lifted before frost injures them, and planted 
closely together in ashes. So long tvs they 
can be kept moderately dry they will remain 
good. On fine days the lights should he taken 
quite off them, and in wet weather they 
should be kept constantly shut. The broad 
leaved Batavian Endive is hardier than any 
Lettuce, and one of the very best of winter 
salad plants. It becomes one broad mass of 
firm leaves, and should never be tied up for 
blanching until a fortnight or so before it is 
wanted. So long as the plants arc left un¬ 
tied there is not much danger of their decay¬ 
ing, but when tied up in wet weather the 
inner leaves soon rot. It will bear a few 
degrees of frost, mid should only lie taken 
under cover in quantities consisting of a few 
dozens at a time. If lifted with good balls 
of .soil and planted in a frame amongst ashes 
and then covered over and kept in the dark 
and from wet, they will blanch nicely with¬ 
out being tied up. This variety may also he 
blanched in the open by flying it up or plac¬ 
ing a flower pot upside down over each 
planij Ulllt tv broad slate Iqc_ tile on the top 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 





GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


February 22, 1908 


684 


to keep out wet. Chicory is a useful winter 
6alad plant. Roots of about nine months old 
are the best for forcing. They should be 
taken up and placed as closely as they will 
stand together in 10-inch pots. Then plunge 
them in a bed of leaves or other fermenting 
material, and tender, creamy growths will 
push up in abundance. All the green points 
may be cut oil in potting them, and the whole 
may be cut over when ready for use, as a 
second crop will push up in a short time. 
This is one of the easiest of plants to culti¬ 
vate, and the surest to give satisfaction. 
Mustard and Cress, which everyone values, 
are easily grown if a little heat can be given 
them. They are the only things which can 
be got up quickly to supply some deficiency, 
as they can always be grown to be fit for use 
in ten days. Sometimes the seed can be 
sow'n on the Vine border, or a little seed may 
be put into shallow cutting boxes. Sow in 
these and put them into a temperature of 
60 degs., and give plenty of light. The 6oil 
should be firm, moderately moist, and the 
seed should not be covered over. Water, too, 
may be withheld until the plants are up, and 
when about 2 inches high move them to a cool 
place, and keep them there till wanted. Beet¬ 
root, too, is an excellent addition to a winter 
salad, and the roots may be had fresh and 
good if stored in any outhouse or cellar dur¬ 
ing the winter. 

FORCING RHUBARB. 

COULD you state in which month Rhubarb-roots out- 
of-doors should be covered up in puts or tubs to have 
a supply from the end of December on? Also, if the 
same roots can be forced like this each year, and 
method of renewing roots, and age at which they 
should be renewed?—L ancer. 

[If your Rhubarb-roots are limited in quan¬ 
tity it is advisable to force them where they 
are grown. Procure the requisite number of 
pots with movable covers and place them over 
the crowns, then on these put some fresh 
stable litter, or leaves and litter mixed. To 
have Rhubarb fit for use at Christmas you 
should have covered the crowns up about the 
middle of November, and as soon as the first 
batch got fairly started into growth you 
should cover up another few crowns, so as to 
keep up a succession until it comes naturally 
about- March. When the crowns are observed 
to be pushing is the best time to divide and 
plant. Rhubarb where it is to be forced. As 
a rule, Rhubarb forcing in private gardens 
is generally conducted in 6onie out-of-the-way 
corner to avoid having the necessary litter 
visible, and it is invariably a warm, shel¬ 
tered nook with a hedge or building to break 
the cold winds blowing from east or north. 
When the. crowns aro to be forced with fer¬ 
menting material on the ground where grown, 
they are best planted in groups of from three 
to five, each group standing 4 feet apart with 
5 feet between the rows. At these distances 
there is ample space for packing the ferment¬ 
ing material between the pots, or whatever 
may be the means adopted for covering the 
crowns. A sufficient quantity should be 

planted to admit of one or more rows being 
rested one seasen, while the others are forced, 
as this greatly lengthens their period of use¬ 
fulness. Annual forcing without resting 

quickly leads to deterioration, and necessi¬ 
tates frequent renewal. The ground for Rhu¬ 
barb can hardly be made too rich, and the 
more deeply it is stirred the better. As 
Rhubarb occupies the 6ame site for several 
years, it pays to prepare the ground 
thoroughly, and a liberal quantity of rotten 
manure should, therefore, be dug into the 
lower spit as well as with the top one. It is 
not always possible to find such a site as that 
indicated above, and when this is so the alter¬ 
native is to look out a spot where the crowns 
will get an abundance of sunshine, and if 
some shelter is afforded from the north and 
east all the better, as the fermenting material 
will retain the heat longer when forcing is 
being carried out. Propagation should be 
done by breaking up and dividing some old 
stools. These should first be carefully lifted, 
injuring the roots as little as possible, then 
breaking them up into as many pieces as 
there are crowns. Plant them at once, tri¬ 
angular fashion. Whe^ 
uianmve ijiav be affcried a 


mer months with the greatest possible bene¬ 
fit. 

Rhubarb crowns for lifting to be forced 
elsewhere may, of course, be grown wherever 
it may be convenient to do so ; but the pre¬ 
paration of the soil for them should be 
equally thorough. In this case the crowns 
should be planted singly and not in groups, 
and, to grow them into large clumps in as 
short a period as possible, high cultivation 
must be given. If there is not a sufficiency 
of old stools available for breaking up, the 
requisite number of young crowns should be 
purchased, this being preferable to raising 
seedlings, which, however easily done, does 
not always prove satisfactory on account of 
the seedlings not always coming true.] 


THE BRASSICA FAMILY. 

In a recent lecture before the Royal Horti¬ 
cultural Society, Mr. A. W. Sutton, of Read¬ 
ing, demonstrated the very intimate racial 
connection which exists between certain mem¬ 
bers of the great Brassica or Cabbage family 
that are yet so very diverse from all ordinary 

t arden forms, as are Swede Turnips and 
lohl Rabi, although he equally showed that 
whilst crosses would result from inter-ferti¬ 
lisation of the flowers, yet in the second or 
third generation the progeny failed to pro¬ 
duce seed. But whilst the results of these 
and similar experiments all served to show 
that the tendency was to produce inferior or 
deteriorated forms, they more properly served 
to show the great importance there is of 
keeping stocks intended to produce seed of 
any of the Cabbage forms to-day quite 
isolated away from others of similar nature, 
so as to preserve purity of stock. Formerly 
it was proved possible by dividing breadths of 
Cabbages, Kales, or Broccoli from each other 
by similar breadths of white Turnips, or 
Swede Turnips, that little inter crossing re¬ 
sulted, but now, because, probably, the de¬ 
mand for absolute purity of stock is stronger, 
it is found most needful to have high-class 
stocks even more fully isolated from others 
of similar nature, and it is largely due to that 
exceeding care that stocks of Brassica are so 
good and so reliable as they are. 

Anyone who attempts to seed but a single 
plant or two of any member of the Cabbage 
tribe soon finds out that the progeny too 
often is of the most hybrid or worthless 
nature. Somewhere, perhaps near or far, 
other members of the family have been 
flowering, and insects or the wind have borne 
pollen so far that many of the flowers in the 
one or two believed to be isolated plants have 
been thus cross-fertilised, and the expected 
stock deteriorated. Where there are big 
breadths of any one stock or variety growing 
there is less danger from inter-crossing by in¬ 
sects, as these—bees especially—usually feed 
on that one breadth of flowers. But pollen is 
very volatile, and is carried a long way in 
the air, hence in that way cross-fertilisation 
is easy. As Turnips and Swedes do not 
habitually cross with Cabbages, Brussels 
Sprouts, or Broccoli, but will with members 
of the Rape section, such as Asparagus 
Kale, or Thousand-head, it is obvious no 
danger is to be feared from them. But the 
blending of Savoy or Brussels Sprouts pollen 
with the flowers of white Cabbages will be 
productive of serious results. 

The moral of Mr. Sutton’s experiments 
seems to be that no efforts should be spared 
by seedsmen to keep true to character all our 
existing Brassica stocks, and to trust rather to 
careful selection to improve them than to 
adopt or aim to secure new forms by inter¬ 
crossing. Doubtless it would have been in¬ 
teresting to have lx*en able to trace back to 
their real origin all these most perfect Bras- 
siea forms we have. It is not at all probable 
all originated from one parent, Brassica olera- 
cea. Doubtless the Rape (B. napus) has had 
something to do with the production of those 
broad-leaved Kales, Buda, Asparagus, Chou 
de Milan, and, possibly, the Swede Turnip, 
but Cabbages of all sorts. Savoys, Brussels 
Sprouts, and curled Kales have, probably, 
come from B. oleracea, as may also have 
come the Broccolis and Cauliflowers. How¬ 
ever, these are more matters for the botanist 
and plant physiologist than for the gnrdener. 
He, finding materials at bis command, has to 



liquid- 


grow them to the beet of his ability, and does 
so, without doubt. But the finding of these 
materials true to name is still dependent on 
the seed grower and seedsman, and thus it is 
that the preservation of stocks, especially 
those readily susceptible of cross-fertilisation, 
becomes of supreme interest to all who gar¬ 
den as to all w'ho trade in them. 

A. D. 


LETTUCE. 

Plants sot out on sheltered borders last 
autumn have suffered somewhat badly from 
the severe frosts and cutting winds experi¬ 
enced at the ond of December last and 
early in the succeeding month. Hick’s 

Hardy White Cos, usually to be depended 
upon to withstand the winter, has been 
destroyed wholesale, the plants rotting 
away close to the ground—Hardy White 
Dutch and All the Year Round suffering 
even worse. This means that early spring 
Lettuces will be scarce. Lettuces in other 
gardens have, probably, shared the same 
fate, in which case it is well to sow at once. 
An ordinary cutting-box filled with light 
loamy soil, and not pressed too firmly, 
should be got ready, and the seed scattered 
thinly, and as thinly covered, placing the 
box near the glass in a house from which 
frost is kept out. Do not overwater, but 
sprinkle a little wood-ashes over the seed¬ 
lings after they have been through the soil 
a week, keeping them free of draughts, and, 
when ready to handle, other boxes should 
be prepared—pans are quite ns suitable — 
and the young seedlings pricked out 2 inches 
asunder, watered in, and still kept quite near 
the glass, to prevent them from getting 
spindly. Before they get crowded it will be 
necessary to transfer them to a cold pit or 
frame having about 10 inches of good soil to 
plant in ; here they can be kept close for a 
few days until re-established ; 9 inches 

asunder will be space enough for them, 
applying water when necessary, pulling the 
lights back on every favourable occasion, 
and protecting at night. Under this treat¬ 
ment serviceable heads should be forthcom¬ 
ing some few weeks before out-of-door sow¬ 
ings become available. One of the Cabbage 
varieties, such as Tom Thumb. Perfect 
Gem, or All the Year Round should be 
chosen, as they mature earlier than the Cos. 
A sowing of both varieties should be made 
out-of-doors as 6oon as the soil is in a work¬ 
able condition. These will prove useful as 
a succession to the sowing under glass. Keep 
a sharp look-out for slugs at all times. 
Blcton. J- Mayne. 


Spinach. —This presents a very burnt ap¬ 
pearance at present, though the plants ap¬ 
pear all right at the collar. Pickings will be 
few and far between for some weeks to come. 
To promote growth the flat hoe should be 
plied between the rows whenever the state 
of the soil allows it to be done. It is of 
little use to apply manure as a top-dressing 
at so early a season, but, when new growth 
is apparent, towards the month of March a 
thin dressing of some approved artificial 
manure, hoed in between the row's, will 
stand the plants in good stead. I know one 
garden from which this vegetable is expected 
on the table daily, and in very hard winters 
the gardener has to sow in boxes under glass, 
w'hich is done moderately thick, and, as soon 
as fit, cut over like one does Mustard and 
Cress. Early February is a good date to 
make a small sowing outside, a warm, shel¬ 
tered border being chosen for the purpose, 
allowing 12 inches between each row'. As 
these early sowings quickly run to flower, it 
is necessary to sow about every three weeks. 
Thin out the plants to 4 inches asunder, as 
the thicker the plants are the sooner thev 
bolt. The ground should be in good heart, 
and a sprinkling of lime forked in before get¬ 
ting out the drills, as slugs are particularly 
fond of Spinach. The Early Round is a good 
variety to sow from now onwards.—J. 
Mayne. 


Index to Volume XXVIII.-The blndlnp cover, 
rice Is 6d each, post free. Ik. 9d.) and Index (.mi., 
*t free. Rid.) for Volume XXVIII. are now readv, 
id ma.v he had of all new.^ccnU, ur of the l'uo- 


URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



Feukuaky 22, 1908 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


685 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 

PLUMY ROCKSPRAY (COTONEASTER 
HORIZON TALI S). 

One of the prettiest bushy plants or dwarf 
shrubs is the one we show here, clothing in 
part a great rock, near which, in an old 
quarry, it grows. This precious Indian 
mountain shrub may bo said to be pretty in 
any position, but we do not see all its grace 
until placed on banks or rocks, where its 
plumy form is best seen. The illustration is 
from Mr. Beamish’s garden, where there is 
a great bare rock, which the plant fringes. 
By the sides of streamlets this plant looks 
very well, throwing its plumy branches over 
the water. It might be effectively used also 
over terrace walls. 

A good many members of this interesting 
family, dwarf and spreading kinds, are most 
useful in gardens, and a good many are not 
introduced. The one we do not care for 


green. It is hardy much farther north, but i 
it will not hold its leaves through the win- ' 
ter when subjected to severe frosts. The 
winter of 1905-6 was such a favourable one 
that not a leaf was hurt on the plants even 
north of Philadelphia; but there have been 
winters when not a leaf of it was green at 
their close, the cold being so severe. It 
should be classed as evergreen in sheltered 
places, and hardy anywhere in the Middle 
States. It is a beautiful evergreen bush in 
summer. In late spring there are clusters of 
greenish-white flowers, which are followed by 
berries that become of a bright red in 
autumn. The bush is then highly attractive. 
Although of Japanese origin, there is but 
little resemblance in it to the well-known 
evergreen one, Euonyrnus japonicus, which 
bos thick, smooth, shining leaves, while those 
of Sieboldianus are of thinner texture, 
larger, and without the shining green of 
the other. As a pot plant for Christmas 
uses, this Euonyrnus should prove useful. It 


yard*? in extent. It has been known in our 
gardens since 1845, when it was introduced 
from China, and is perfectly hardy, even ite 
flowers standing some degrees of frost without 
suffering harm. Although it is hardy, it does 
not come amiss under glass, where it will 
bloom a month earlier, and a large plant 
will fill a conservatory with perfume during 
the dark December days. This and the Win- 
ter Sw f eet (Chimonanthus fragrans) arc two 
winter-flowering shrubs whose blossoms emit 
exquisite odours, and their bloom-sprays, cut 
and brought into the house, will fill the 
living-rooms with delightful fragrance. L. 
Standishi is a very similar species, and also 
bears small, white, sweetly-scented flowers; 
but, if only one of these is grown, L. fra- 
grantisfiima is to be preferred.—S. W. Fitz- 

HERBERT. 

Eucalyptus Beauchampiana.— We have 
had here nearly 20 degs. of frost this winter 
—our Truro nurseries are situated in a very 
cold place indeed for Cornwall—yet this 



Piumy Rockspray (Cotoneaster horizontalis) in rocky quarry at Ashbourne, Glounthaune. 


(Simmonsi) is a poor, stiff shrub, hardly 
worth having, except as covert. Others are 
being introduced, and we have yet to prove 
their garden value; but already we have 
enough of them to show how useful they are 
for gardens. In soils where the true alpine 
plant can be grown with difficulty, owing to 
drought or other causes, plants like the Sun 
Roses and Rock Roses, all of which endure a 
warmer climate than the true alpine plant or 
shrublet can stand, come to help us. 


NOTES AND 11EPLIES. 

The St John's Wort — Will you kindly tell me 
whether St. John’s Wort is quite cafe for cattle—not 
poisonous—or whether you think it would be unwise 
to plant it on a narrow bank when it must bo so 
near the field fence that cattle could get at it?— 
A. H. 

[W<\ can find no evidence of its being poi¬ 
sonous, and have often seen it within reach 
of cattle.] 

Euonyrnus Sieboldianus.— Where the win¬ 
ters are no more sey*T> than they]are in 
Philadelphia, Euonyniis Si^bVdi, 


is naturally a bushy grower, requiring but 
little pruning to form a shrub of pleasing 
outline. It is a fast grower as well. When 
outdoors, the red berries are destroyed br 
frosts before Christmas, but when under 
shelter it is more than probable that they 
would be in good condition until Christmas 
and later.— Joseph Meehan, in Florists' 
Exchange. 

Lonicera fragrantissima. —This Honey¬ 
suckle is especially valuable, since it flowers 
in the depth of winter. It is now in full 
bloom, and its little white blossoms perfume 
the surrounding air. All who appreciate 
6cent in flowers should grow this bush Honey¬ 
suckle. It is classed as an evergreen, but 
when exposed to severe frosts and biting 
winds, it often loses the majority of its leaves. 
Old plants will often reach a height of 7 feet 
or more, and, if trained against a wall, it 
will attain a greater height than when grown 
as a bush. A fine old shrub, with every 
shoot studded with small, deliciously scented, 
ivory-white blossoms, will, on a caim day in 
January, create a zone of fragrance many 


Eucalyptus stands without the least protec¬ 
tion. Wo have grown it along with E. 
Stuartiana, and it stands much better than 
that variety; nor is E. Gunni equal to it for 
hardiness. E. Beauchampiana comes from a 
very cold part of Australia. All who have 
seen it agree that it is a distinct variety. 
Large trees of Eucalyptus globulus have 
perished, but E. Beauchampiana stands tlio 
cold, even the young shoots being unharmed. 
We also grow- Cordyline australis (Draca?na), 
and we believe this plant would prove to be 
hardy in many other places as well as Corn¬ 
wall if it were only tied up in winter when 
the leaves are dry. — Treseder and Co., 
Truro. 

Shrubs for seaside “ P.." in Gardening Illus¬ 
trated of January 11th, might have added many 
more plants to his list of those suitable for the spa- 
side. All the following do well with me:—X ant ho- 
ceras sorbi folia, Weigelas, Romney a Coulteri, Olearias, 
Veronicas (shrubby), I’ernettyas, Rhu&Cotinus.Cenr.o- 
thus Gloire de Versailles, Choisya ternata, Cist us 
albidus, Cist us cPifcfuis, t'letlhra alnifolia. Fuchsias, 
Myrtles (10 feet to. 12 feet high) Buddleia. clobosa. 
P v ■ ihih . ntd many othf-r.- Thi.- i- on (he « oast of 
Cumberland, exposed to south and west gales.-L. R. 

I IRRAMA-rHAMPAIf^lVl 












686 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


February 22 , 1908 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 


’TWIXT THE WINTER AND THE 
SPRING. 

When the trees stand gaunt and leaflets, and 
the fields nre brown and bare; when we miss 
the beauty of the hedgerows and the streams ; 
when the tangled growth of woodland all 
seems sere and dead, and our gardens are 
bereft of flowers; even then he who seeks 
may find signs of an awakening world. Some¬ 
time, in the dull and gloomy weather of the 
early year, there comes a spell of sunlit 
hours, bringing hope and cheer, when balmy 
breezes rnaae one feel the coming of the 
spring, and we. know, despite depressing, 
dreary days, that 

“The blue of Heaven is larger than the 
cloud.” 


All along the windings of a murmuring brook, 
buds of Woodbine and of Bramble cluster 
thick on every bough. In a tiny hollow in 
a coppice Primroses, closely sheltered by tufts 
of withered herbage, peer out shyly, as if 
uncertain of their fate. There is a gleam of 
colour in the Gorse upon the hill, that in 
later days will flame on every bush like 
points of burnished gold. The very Heather 
on the moor, with dead and withered flowers, 
is a study in bronze and faded purple in the 
winter sunlight. But winter days in wood¬ 
land and in copse are not exempt from 
beauty. The frail and tender branches of 
the Silver Birches, a picture in the glens in 
May, aro scarcely less attractive in their 
winter nudeness. And there are Maples, 
from the time of their first leaves, through 
6ilver-greys to gold and brown and scarlet of 
autumnal days—a treasure in the woods. 
The Ash, the slowest to unfold its leaves, 
stands giant like, covered with Lichen, or 
Ivy-girt far up the stem, whilst massive 
Beeches have a colour all their own. Even 
the ground under one’s feet is soft and deep 
with reddened leaves and Bracken. But 
where the trees are thickly grouped together 
there is nothing more beautiful now than 
green Mosses, which lie, cushion-like, round 
gnarled roots and stems, or on banks and 
stones near the brook. 


.Visit the woodland at whatever season one 
may, Mens is always green. Polypodiums, 
too, are fresh the winter through, and give 
no sign of change. Cuckoo Pints, half- 
hidden in the hedges, and whose bright, 
pointed leaves are even now closely bound to¬ 
gether, will gradually unfold in the winds of 
March. And there are patches of Cow Para- 
ley, with clumps of Violets here and there 
that in April will betray their presence by 
the .sweet fragrance of the flowers. The sun¬ 
light adds a glory to a low bush of Copper 
Beeeli in a distant hedge, still full of brown 
leaves. Red and yellow Willows, swaying 
to and fro in the breeze beside the stream, 
as it winds through the meadows, contribute 
to the charm of the wintry landscape. Ere 
long, birds, that in many secluded spots and 
quiet corners have begun to build, will fill 
the countryside with their rich melody. In 
♦ he heart of the woodland, as well an on 
bushes skirting the stream, one sees where 
last summer their nests were hid, under a 
close canopy of twigs and leaves, but now 
deserted are exposed to view. A thrush 
calls to his mate in an Elm across the valley. 
A robin, with highly-coloured breast, flits 
from tree to tree, almost within reach, heed¬ 
less of our presence; and though we may 
think ourselves unperceived, sharp eyes aloft 
are watching us when least expected. Feb¬ 
ruary is often a fickle month at the best. 
One day may raise our hopes and lure us 
onward, in the belief that spring is almost 
within reach, but the next day may drive us 
back into the very throes of winter, with 
sleet and snow. But we still hope—for every 
day, be the weather what it may. there is 
something to tell us that winter is surely 
parsing, that sombre-looking fields shall give 
place to flower-bedecked meadows, that trees 
shall be clad in all their new beauty, that our 
gardens shall bloom with a freshness born 
of brighter days—dav^ethat 
nearly nigh at hand, — 


D 


navs filial oven iunv arc 

*Godgie 


VIOLETS ON NORTH BORDER. 

I have in my garden a long border, under a wail 
facing north-east, in which I wish to grow Violets. 
Will you kindly tell me:—(1) What Violets would 
grow in the border, which feels the wind a good deal 
and does not get much sun? (2) When should thev 
be planted? (3) How should the border be prepared? 
(4> Where can the Violets be bought, and would it do 
to grow both purple and white?— Jerry. 

[The position you have selected to grow 
Violets in will be satisfactory during summer, 
but you must not expect to gather many 
blooms between the months of October and 
March. To get a good supply during that 
period the plants need to be where every 
gleam of sun can reach them, and it would 
be advisable, even in your genial climate, to 
transfer the plants to a sunnier position quite 
early in October. At this dale they would 
not feel the check of transplanting very much 
if carefully lifted with nice balls of soil 
attached to the roots, and as carefully planted, 
affording a thorough watering with a roeo- 
can. The single varieties do the best out-of- 
doors, but, provided the winter is not too 
severe, some of the doubles can be relied on 
to yield a fair amount of flower. 

Respecting the preparation of the border, 
we could have better advised you had you told 
us what kind of soil yours is ; but if we treat 
upon very light and the reverse—very heavy 
—no doubt you will be able to decide for your¬ 
self. Assuming that your soil is of a light 
texture, nothing is better than a dressing of 
farmyard manure, the more you can get from 
the cow-stalls the better. An ordinary dress¬ 
ing such as you would apply to a piece of 
ground for Onions or Turnips will suffice for 
the Violet. Dig this in a good spade deep 
now, and let the surface remain rough until 
early in April. If, on the contrary, your soil 
is heavy, substitute half-decayed leaf-soil in 
place of the manure, digging this as soon as 
the ground is workable, whicli must not be too 
wet, and, on the other hand, not too dry. 
Early in April fork back the ground, not deep 
enough to bring the manure to the surface. 
If the soil is heavy apply a moderate coating 
of wood-aslievS, soot, or old mortar-rubble 
before the forking is done. The planting may 
be done at any time during April and the 
early part of May, setting out the stronger- 
growing single varieties 15 inches asunder 
each way, 3 inches less for the doubles, and 
water in if necessary. Your best plan would 
be to purchase a few dozen clumps or stools 
in April, pulling these to pieces, reserving all 
offshoots that have roots attached, discard¬ 
ing the parent or centre-growth, and trim¬ 
ming the ends of the roots a bit with the 
knife, nnd then planting with as little delay 
as possible, the dibber being a suitable tool 
to set the plants out with. Most hardy 
plant nurserymen can supply Violet plants. 

Doubtless, the two best single blue Violets 
are La France and Princess of Wales, im¬ 
mense flowers on extra long stalks and deli¬ 
ciously fragrant. There are others almost as 
good, notably Wellsiana, which flowers very 
freely in early autumn ; California, a very I 
hardy and prolific variety; and semper- 
florens, which is nearly always in bloom. The 
best single white is White Czar. If you care 
to give the doubles a trial, choose Marie 
Louise, Mrs. J. J. Aslor, I)e Parnie, Lady 
liuine Campbell, and Comte tie Brazza, the 
last being a white one. 

To grow and flower Violets well constant 
attention must be paid to the plants from the 
time of planting up to the end of October, in 
the matter of supplying water to the roots, 
syringing the foliage should red-spider put in 
an appearance, removing runners every two 
or three weeks, after which the flat hoc should 
be plied between the plants. Red^pider is 
the greatest enemy to Violet foliage during 
hot, dry summers, but in the position you 
name your plants ought not to suffer much 
from this pest. If they do, well syringe the 
foliage with soap-suds from the laundry two 
or three evenings in succession, working the 
same well underneath the leaves or. in very 
bad cases, syringe the foliage and dust with 
flowers of sulphur, washing this off twenty- 
four hours afterwards.] 

Bulbs after flowering (/I).—Let flip whole of 
the bulbs di^ down and gradually ripen after bloom¬ 
ing. Stand in a pit and water freely until the foliage 
dies down, when they may be- shaken out and planted 
in tlie open, 


NOTES AND IIEFL1ES. 

Zdlium chalcedonicum in pots —Is the Scarlet 
Turk’s-cap Lily suitable for a glass porch (unheated) 
or should it be grown in the open? My soil is Btiff 
with a cold clay subsoil. If grown in pots, how 
many should be placed in 6-inch pot? Porch aspect 
south-east. When should they be ]>otted?— A. J. W. 

[The Scarlet Turk’s-cap Lily is not suited 
to pot culture, but delights in a stiff soil. 
A good Lily for pots is L. spec-iosum (red or 
white); either could be planted now—one in 
a 6-inch pot.] 

Sweet Peas- Can you inform me of some more 
artistic way of supporting growing Sweet Peas, than 
by using sticks, as is done for supporting table Peas? 
Also, is ther ■ any usual period of expecting to cut 
Sweet Peas in Denver—kindly say how long from time 
of sowing?—A. J. W. 

[Apart from the more usual way of using 
sticks, you might so arrange the sowing of 
the seeds so that wires could be placed for 
the haulm to climb upon. For instance, in 
place of the usual trench, you might arrange 
two trenches at about 3 feet apart for the re¬ 
ception of the seeds. Stout stakes might be 
driven into the ground at 9 feet apart along 
each trench, and a fine wire passed round 
each and taken along the row. Midway be¬ 
tween the two trenches on uprights of quarter¬ 
ing no less than 6 feet high, with strong lop- 
bar nailed thereto, should be arranged wires 
or string for the Peas to climb upon, to bo 
fixed 1 foot apart the full length of the row, 
to be fastened to the wire near ground-level, 
and taken over the central cross-bar and down 
to the other side. If a stretcher 18 inches 
wide at the top be arranged by placing double 
uprights and cross-bars, the plants will not 
run together. Another way is to obtain very 
coarse wire mesh for the plants to climb 
upon. It is not possible to fix the time when 
the flowers should be ready for cutting; a 
large, number are sown in the autumn, others 
in pots, etc., and seasons nnd localities b&eh 
exert their influence. Seeds sown now would 
be ready in June in the ordinary way, and, 
of course, the flowering, when the plants are 
treated well, goes on for weeks.] 

Violet fungus —I would be much obliged to hear 
if this is Violet-fungus or only ordinary mildew? If 
the former, of course all planU shall be burnt, but 
will the fungus attack plants grown in the s;lme 
frame next year, or how can this be prevented? the 
gardener days they were the same last year, blit I 
was abroad.—A. E. 

[Judging from specimens sent, your Violet 
plants aro in a sorry plight with “Violet 
fungus,” and if alL the plants in the frame 
are attacked like those sent, we should advise 
you to burn them forthwith. If only a plant 
here and there is attacked, much may be done 
by picking off the affected leaves every few' 
days and burning them, and moving up the 
surface soil each week with a large label. 
With this treatment and the longer days, 
and, naturally, more sun, the plants may 
outgrow thew disease. A stuffy atmosphere 
should at all times be avoided, only shutting 
down the sashes at night or on very ttet, 
foggy days, putting them back by day on 
every favourable occasion. Under any cir¬ 
cumstances, wo should advise you to procure 
a fresh stock of plants this spring, and there 
would ho much less disease among Violets if 
this were done of tenor. The soil, too, should, 
be changed for those placed under glass 
during winter. An regards your frames, 
every bit oT soil should bo cleared out with 
the plants, the woodwork thoroughly washed, 
and, if convenient, repainted, and in case of 
brick walls, coloured afresh. These few 
items carried out, we see no reason why vour 
Violet plants should not keep free of the 
pest next winter. To be successful with 
Violets during the short days, the plants 
ought to be within 1 foot of the glass lights, 
and the gl^ss kept scrupulously clean from 
start to finish. It is only after they arc 
covered with glass that the disease shows it¬ 
self, thus indicating that plenty of fresh air 
is the one essential to success. Your frames 
should Ik; well protected during seven* 
frosts, for if the foliage gets much crippled, 
it will decay somewhat in the manner your 
plants are now in, and very little water is 
necessary from November up to the end of 
February, and when this is really required, 
let it be put on about ten o’clock in the 
morning, so that the foliage may get dry be¬ 
fore closing down for the night, which it 
would be if a bright day be cdM-sen for Ihe 
work.] 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



February 22, 1903 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


687 


3 

f 




s- 

* 




THE HERBACEOUS SPIRAEAS. 

This extensive genus comprises several spe¬ 
cies characterised by the beauty of their 
foliage and the airy grace of their flowers. 
Of the larger herbaceous kinds, none, per- 


The Gont’s-beard (Spirsea Aruneus). From a photoj 
The Graig, Ross, Hereford. 


haps, . is more striking than S. Aruiicur. 
(Goat's-beard), a vigorous perennial, which 
grows from 3 feet to 5 feet high, and flowers 
in summer, producing its numerous small 
white flowers in long spikes, forming a ter¬ 
minal panicle. It is found in various parts 
of Europe, Asia, and America, and is p. 
valuable subject for grouping with other fine- 
foliaged herbaceous plants. A rather com 
mon, but very pleasing, British species is 
S. filipendula (Dropwort), which grows from 
I foot to 2 feet high, and lias yellowish-white 
flowers (often tipped with red) in loose ter 
niinal corymbs. When the flower stems ar • 
pinched off it forms a very effective edging 
plant, the Fern like aspect of its foliage 
rendering it very distinct from many other 
plants which are used for this purpose. The 
double variety (S. filipendula fl. pi.) will be 
found useful in the mixed borderland is very- 
pretty as a cut flower. One of the hand 
somest of the hardy herbaceous Spireeas is 
the American species known as S. lobata or 
venusta. It grows from 1 \ feet to 3 feet 
high, and has deep, rosy-carmine flowers in 
large terminal compound cymes. The 
foliage is also handsome. It does best in 
sandy loam, and is valuable for the mixed 
border or for planting on the margins of 
shrubberies or in beds among groups of th? 
finer perennials. Another very handsome 
kind, somewhat resembling the last-named, 
but dwarfer, is the Japanese species, S. 
palmata, which grows from feet to 2 feet 
high, and has crimson flowers in a many- 
branched panicle. The common British 
Meadow-sweet (S. Ulmaria) would, no doubt, 
be considered a plant of high merit were it 
only an exotic. It is seldom seen in gardens, 
but there are often worse things to be found 
in our borders. As it is tco well known to 
ne;d any description here, I merely say that 
it deserves a place, if only for the sake of 
variety, in the mixed border, on the mar¬ 
gins of shrubberies, or in the rougher parts 
of pleasure-grounds, where it may bo ad¬ 
vantageously planted with other subjects 
which do not require much looking after. 
Almost any soil will suit it; if moist, so 
much the better. S. ciespitosa is also a very 
pretty dwarf plant, and does well in an open 
position in a rock-garden. T. 


dcr. With its yellow rays and its dark, 
central cone, it is at once ornamental and 
striking when compared with the majority of 
the yellow composites of the late summer 
and autumn. It is, moreover, one of the 
easy border plants to grow, although it is 
never happy in a 
poor and dry soil, 
and prefers one 
which is moderately 
heavy, and which, 
although not stand¬ 
ing in moisture, is 
yet never dust-dry. 
In poor soil it is 
greatly helped by 
the addition of some 
good cow-manure. 
In the border it is 
bright and showy, 
and its height of a 
foot or 18 inches 
makes it suitable 
for the small gar¬ 
den where it is dif¬ 
ficult to place such 
tall species as R. 
californica to ad¬ 
vantage. It can l>e 
raised from seeds, 
but plants are mo¬ 
derate in price, and 
can be had from 
most hardy plant- 
dealers. — S. Ar- 
NOTT. 

Forget-me-nots, 

raph by Miss Southall, —My experience has 

been that compara¬ 
tively few care for 
Forget me - nots. 
This. 1 think, is to be regretted, consider¬ 
ing what a show they give in spring and early 
summer. It ought not to be left to the gar¬ 
deners in public parks to show what beauti¬ 
ful effects may be brought about by using 
them as a groundwork for Tulipo and other 
bulbs, for it is within the province of anyone 
who has a garden to use them similarly. 


pricked out once or twice in a bed where 
the soil liars been lightened a little, and then, 
in the autumn, removed to their final quar¬ 
ters. This is better than removing them 
in spring, as some do, particularly if bulbs 
are planted, as one ie likely to disturb the 
latter. Those who are in the happy position 
of having a brook course in or near to their 
garden, as a friend of mine has, should not 
fail to grow M. palustris, the well-known 
tenant of river banks and si reams.—L ea- 
hurst. 

LIBERTIA FORMOSA. 

The Liberties are plants of the Iris order, 
and the subject of this note, a nat ive of Chili, 
is the most beautiful of the family. Even in 
winter the dark green, gracefully-arching 
foliage is an ornamental feature in the gar¬ 
den, and towards the end of May, when its 
flower-spikes are perfected, the tall stems, 
studded for several inches with thrce-petalled 
blossoms of snowy whiteness, produce a 
lovely picture. This Libertin grows and 
flowers in the open as far north as Berwick¬ 
shire and Yorkshire, but in those districts 
does not assume the proportions that it 
attains in south-western gardens. The tallest 
flower-spike on the plants figured in the ac¬ 
companying illustration measured 4 feet 
10 inches in height, while many of the leaves 
exceeded 4 feet in length. This plant boro 
over two hundred bloom-spikes. Several 
self-sown seedlings have sprung up around 
the parent plant. In the north such size and 
freedom of flowering arc not to be expected, 
•and a correspondent writing from Yorkshire 
on this Libertia some years ago stated that 
his plants rarely grew higher than 1 foot. 
The Libertia appreciates a rich and porous 
soil, but in heavy, retentive soil of a clayey 
nature it rarely flourishes, its leafage being 
sparse and weakly, and its flower-spikes few 
and small. When grown under such condi¬ 
tions no correct estimate of its worth can bo 
formed, since it presents a totally different, 
appearance to that which it assumes under 
more genial conditions. In severe winters it 
sometimes perishes in low-lying, water¬ 


Libertla formosa. From a photograph by Mr. S. W, Fitzherbert, South Devon. 


The Showy Coneflower (Rudbeckia 
spcciosa).— 1 This is the correct name of the 
plant often called in gardens Rudbeckia 
Newmanni, and it is as yet one of the jieateat 
and best of the Conefl 




Then, they are not the least useful for pot¬ 
ting and for window-boxes, and as an edging 
to a border, or for planting under hedge¬ 
rows they ought not to be forgotten. Their 
culture is simple enough. In May, seed can 
be sown in the open ground, the plants 


logged sites. In the south-west Libertia for¬ 
mosa does well under varying conditions. 
The plant hero illustrated is growing in a 
very dry site, but othqrp.planted close to thy 
water are equally satisfactory. 

/FRsiY Sv-m-F. 













688 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


FnnnuAitv 22, 1908 


CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 


Chrysanthemums for cutting - Having grown 
Chrysanthemum* for only three seasons, and meeting 
with little success, I arn led by the interesting notes 
which appear In your paper to seek your aid in a 
matter which has hitherto confused me—namely, 
growing my plants to get as many blooms for cutting 
ns possible Some of my cuttings were struck in De¬ 
cember, and others as they appeared up to the pre¬ 
sent time. 1 do not intend taking more this season. 
As the cuttings root, I pot them into 60‘s. When 
these pots aye full of roots I shift the plants into 48‘s, 
and finally I put two plants into a pot 11 inches in 
diameter. I am obliged to house my plants about 
September 2fith on account of early frost.— Vale. 

| As your object appears to be that of pro¬ 
curing as many blooms a# possible from your 
plants, 1 vOur plan should be a very simple 
one. As soon as the young plants are 6 inches 
in height, pinch out the tip of the shoot, 
and this will induce many new growths to 
develop.- These should be pinched in like 
manner when they have attained a length of 
about 6 inches, and all subsequent growths 
should he treated in like fashion. The last 
pinching should be carried out in late June, 
and the plants from this point be grown on 
to the terminal buds. These terminal buds 
should, in Ordinary circumstances, appear 
sufficiently early for good, plump buds to be 
perfected before your ordinary housing time 
in late September. The terminal buds should 
be thinned out to such an extent as to ensure 
each flower developing without being unduly 
crowded, and as the flowers possess good 
colour from terminal buds, and seldom damp, 
this practice caiinot be too highly com¬ 
mended.] 

Chrysanthemums for decoration. Will wmc 
of your readers give me information on growing 
Chrysanthemums for decoration, both as cut flowers 
and for greenhouse? I want to know when to pro¬ 
pagate, pot them on, and also when to pinch for the 
last time? 1 think I must have pinched some of my 
plants too late, aa they have not shown flower before 
October. Any information as to varieties suitable for 
pot culture for decoration will be greatly appre¬ 
ciated.—W r . M. 


[You will find an article dealing fully with 
the subject you inquire about in our issue of 
February 15th, page 669. Generally speak¬ 
ing, you may propagate decorative Chrysan¬ 
themums at any time between the present 
and the middle of May. For November dis¬ 
plays pinch the’plants for the last time at 
the end of June, and for a later display the 
final pinching should be done in mid July.] 
Exhibiting Chrysanthemums. Much has 
been written in Gardening Illustrated of 
late regarding the question of exhibiting 
large blooms, and judging from what has al¬ 
ready appeared, it is apparent that Chrysan- 
themum societies, if they wish to succeed, 
must not devote so much attention to the 
large blooms. We hove attended meetings of 
several bodies of Chrysanthemum growers 
who have been discussing this matter, and 
that’with considerable "warmth. The trade 
naturally take exception to the alteration. 
They say that there is not sufficient money 
in Chrysanthemums when they arc simply 
grown to produce small to medium-sized 
blossoms. The demand for novelties at tho 
present time is not anything like so keen as 
it was a few years ago, when it was quite an 
easy matter to obtain 5s. and 7s. 6d. for 
plants of a novelty, and these sold quite 
freely. As one weliknown trade grower has 
expressed it, lie says: What tan you do in 
the way of making your business a success 
when yon cannot obtain more than 4s. per 
dozen for your plants? He says Chrysan¬ 
themum societies must not expect them to 
contribute so liberally to the funds when 
growers do not get anything like the same 
return for their plants as was the case a 
few years since. What they ask the societies 
to do is to do away with the vase classes, 
as this deters many growers from coining to 
the shows from a distance, and in their 
stead insert other classes where a greater 
number of varieties can be shown, and these 
on boards. Whether this is a wise course to 
follow I am somewhat disposed to doubt. 
Large blooms should, I think, be encouraged 
to some extent, so that cultural skill may be 
exhibited in the blooms staged ; but the ex¬ 
hibition of Chrysanthemums of mediu 
such as one can pq 

Digitized t 


m size, 
ith 


>r/ffu£e from plaits, wi 

Go gf£ 


ordinary culture quite easily, is the more 
important. From these plants it should be 

ossible to produce twelve to eighteen 

looms of a most delightful kind, and these 
in pleasing variety and in many distinct and 
interesting varieties and types.—A. R. W. 

ROOM AND WINDOW. 

EARLY SPRING FLOWERS IN THE 
HOUSE. 

Even at this late date Chrysanthemums are 
still in evidence, excellent blooms of Winter 
Cheer making a handsome display when set 
up lightly in tall vases. Under artificial 
light these flowers are especially useful. I 
have just gathered the last blooms of Winter 
Cheer and its white prototype, Heston White, 
two idcaL kinds for late work. The blooms 
are the result of plant# grown on without dis¬ 
budding to the terminal buds, and their 
effect is distinctly pleasing. 

Early Tulips that have been well grown are 
making nice, long stems, with ample foliage, 
and these may be used for some of the taller 
vases. There is generally a tendency to un¬ 
duly crow'd the Tulips, and in this way 
valuable material is wasted. Arrange each 
flower with its own foliage, just as it is cut 
from the plant. Similarly, the leaves of the 
Tulip should overhang the aides of the re¬ 
ceptacles, thus adding charm to the display. 
Bowl# of Tulips are a pretty feature in in¬ 
door decoration, too. Self-coloured flowers 
arc to be preferred, and each vase should 
contain blooms of one colour only. Some¬ 
times it may be advisable to make a pleas¬ 
ing harmony by using pale yellow r , rich yel¬ 
low, and scarlet Tulips in association. By 
the same rule blend white, pale rose, and deep 
rose-coloured Tulips, and the effect will be 
very pretty. 

Already Daffodil# can bo had. Here, 
again, the foliage of the Daffodil should be 
used in preference to that of any other. The 
leaves are all the embellishment that the 
Daffodils require to make a really artistic 
floral arrangement. Do not shorten back 
the flower-stalks in order to adjust these 
flowers in certain smaller receptacles. This 
is just where so many persons fail. Daffo¬ 
dils should be arranged in vases and other 
receptacles, where their natural beauty and 
character can be properly shown. For this 
reason, the vases should be of sufficient depth 
to maintain the flowers in any desired posi¬ 
tion. In arranging the blooms of the Arum 
Lily, how often doe# one meet with instances 
where the stems have been cut back to within 
10 inches or a foot of the flower. I prefer 
to see the Arum Lily cut with long stems, 
with a few specimens of its handsome, shield¬ 
like leaves also cut with long stems, and 
these arranged with due care in a rather tall 
trumpet vase. What more noble floral pic¬ 
ture is there than a large trumpet vase ar¬ 
ranged with about a dozen good Arum Lilies 
and their own foliage? Each flower should 
stand out well from its neighbour, and their 
height in the arrangement should vary, of 
course. 

Violets are not made so much of as they 
deserve to be. Everyone is accustomed to 
see these flowers made up into button-hole 
bouquet# and ladies’ sprays, but beyond this 
they are seldom seen. One of the daintiest 
table decorations I have seen for a long 
time was composed exclusively of well-grown 
Marie Louise Violets. For table decorations 
during the daytime, Violets are distinctly 
pretty; for evening use, however, wo should 
hesitate to use them, a# the mauve-blue 
colour of many of the double kinds is hardly 
effective enough. These fragrant flowers are 
easily arranged in small tubes and pretty 
little bowl-like vases, and if the blossoms are 
not crowded, a charming floral picture may 
be had. Some of the deep blue single- 
flowered Violets are particularly pretty, and 
as they have long flower stems, their arrange¬ 
ment is easily brought about. Winter¬ 
flowering or perpetual-flowering Carnations 
arc among the most striking flowers at this 
season. Their diverse colouring renders 
them ideal for cutting. Vases and other re- 1 
ceptacles, filled with Carnations cf one colour, 
are beautiful, and as most of these winter¬ 
flowering kinds associate so pleasingly to¬ 


gether, they are all the more valuable in con¬ 
sequence. Carnations never look better than 
when disposed lightly in tall vase#, and I 
prefer those of clear giaos to any others. The 
flowers should be gathered with long stems, 
so that, when arranged in the vases, they 
overhang somewhat, and a# nearly as possible 
represent growing plants. The foliage of the 
Carnation is too valuable to mix with the 
floweru, consequently other material must bo 
used in its place. 1 prefer to use in conjunc¬ 
tion with the Carnations long feathery sprays 
of the Asparagus in it# varying characters. 
Those with palest green tints are preferred, 
as they enhance the beauty of the display 
very considerably. Dull and deep green 
frond# are not desirable, as they add any¬ 
thing but a pleasing finish. Among the more 
chaste subject# may be mentioned the beauti¬ 
ful Lily of the Valley. These flowers, ar¬ 
ranged with their own pale green foliage, 
make n charming decoration for small,bowls 
and some of the smaller vases. The flower# 
should stand out well above the foliage, and 
a pretty effect cannot then fail to be created. 
The Ranunculus and Anemone in their 
bright and rich crimson and scarlet colour#, 
at this season make a very striking display in 
the evening under artificial light. In associa¬ 
tion with the Lily of the Valley they make a 
pleasing contrast, and, lightly disposed, arc 
a welcome feature. D. B. Crane. 

GARDEN PESTS AND FRIEpiti*. 

NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Grubs of Vine weevil. 1 blioultl be ninth 
obliged if you could tell me what the white grub is 
which 1 ain sending you? I have lately been repot¬ 
ting some Geraniums, Ferns, and Hydrangeas, which 
had not been repotted for a year or two, and found 
a great many of these grubs among the roots. Any 
plant which had many of them was in a very poor 
condition. I should be glad to know what insect Hi© 
grub turns into, nud if nn) thing can flfe done to prevent 
its getting into the roots?—L. M. Darker. 

[The grubs you sent aro those of the black 
Vine-weevil (Otiorrhynchua suleatus). They 
are very destructive to the roots of Vines, 
Ferns, Primula#, Cyclamens, Begonias, and 
many other soft rooted plants. The parent 
w'oevils are also very destructive, ns they 
feed on the leaves and young shoots of Vines 
and other plant#. The best means of killing 
the grubs is by picking them out of the soil, 
no insecticide being of any practical use, as 
it cannot be made to reach them in sufficient 
strength to harm them without injuring the 
roots. The weevils only feed at night, hid¬ 
ing themselves in the daytime so carefully 
that it is most difficult to find them. They 
may be caught, however, if you can find oil 
what plants they are feeding, by laying a 
white sheet under the plant in the course of 
the day, and then, when it has been dark 
about an hour, throwing a bright light sud¬ 
denly on the plant. This frightens the wee¬ 
vils, and they full as if dead, when they may 
easily l»e collected. If they do not fall, give 
the plant a good jarring shake and search it 
well over. It is sometimes useful to tie a 
small quantity of hay round the stems, or 
lay a small ball on the earth at their base. 
This will afford a snug hiding plaeo for the 
weevil# during the day. These traps should 
be examined ever}’ morning. The weevil# are 
beetles about £ inch in length, nearly black 
in colour, and with very pointed heads.] 

Beech-disease. -Buckinghamshire is essen¬ 
tially a Beech-growing county, and a serious 
matter affecting that particular kind of tim¬ 
ber has been brought to the notice of the 
Board of Agriculture by Mr. Archibald 
Grove, M.P., of Pollard’s Park, Chalfont St. 
Giles. He discovered that a large number of 
Beeches on his property were affected with 
Beech-scale. This disease, unless stamped 
out., would destroy every Beech-tree in the 
county within from fifteen to thirty years, 
An inspector was sent down from the Board 
of Agriculture, and confirmed Mr. Grou:‘« 
worst fears, but said that, by prompt and 
universal treatment, the disease could be 
stamped out. The disease is easy to detect. 
It commences with the appearance of a fluffy 
white powder on the bark of the Beech, which 
gradually spreads over the whole of the tree, 
and innlh de< trt ys it. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



February 22, 1908 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


689 



ROSES, 

ROSE STARLIGHT. 

Rose Starlight is a seedling from Celine 
Forestier, crossed with a variety of Rosa 
multiflora, and in growth and habit is a Rosa 
multiflora, but with the Noisette dense, green 
foliage of Celine. It seems quite as hardy as 
the multiflora forms, and has shoots 60 ine 
8 feet or 10 feet long. It blooms very freely, 
but is only slightly perpetual. 

George Paul. 

The Old Nurseries, Cheshunt. 


ROSES FOR MARKET FROM A 
PERGOLA. 

If not too much trouble, would you kindly let me 
know what are the best Roses to grow with a view 
to selling them? I have made a pergola about 
60 yards long, and wish not only to have it beautiful, 
hut profitable as well. 1 do not intend planting it 
until next autumn, when I hope the 6oil will be in 
perfect condition. Your articles on Roses are very 
interesting reading.— Pergola. 

[Unless you have exceptional opportunities 
of selling your surplus blossom, we fear you 
would not find the produce from a pergola 
very remunerative. In the first place, most 


I We, however, expect you desire a variety, 
and, therefore, name 6ome strong climbers 
for the roof and some less vigorous for the 
I side pillars. Climbers: Hiawatha, Lady 
I Gay, Blush Rambler, Philadelphia Rambler, 
Rene Andre, Bouquet d’Or, Wm. Allen 
j Richardson, Crepusoule, Mine. Pierre Cochet, 
Purity, Francois Crousse, Billiard et Barre, 

! Climbing K. A. Victoria, Lady Waterlow, 
Mine, Berard, Mons, Desir, Climbing Belle 
| Siebrecht, Climbing Caroline Testout, Gus- 
I tave Regis. Conrad F. Meyer, Ards Pillar. 
' Zcpheriu Drouhin, Johanna Sebus. Varic- 
i lies less vigorous: Pharisaer, Mine. Abel 
I Ohatenay, Hugh Dickson, Lady Roberts, 
Marie Van Houtte, Anna Ollivicr, Mme. 

! Ravary, Richmond, Mme. Leon Pain, Coin- 
I tease de Cayla, Frau Karl Druschki, Kil- 
larney, Gustave Grunerwald, Lady Battersea, 
i Mrs. John Laing, Duke of Connaught, Earl 
j of Pembroke, General Jacqueminot.] 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

The eighteen best exhibition Roses. -Kindly 
tell me the eighteen best exhibition varieties of Roses 
(any class), which give their finest blooms or the best 
results from cut-back plants? My space is limited, 


Rose Starlight. From a photograph in Messrs. Paul and Son's nurseries at Oheehunt. 


INDOOR PLANTa 


FUCHSIAS. 

Few, if any, of the old-fashioned plants with 
which we are acquainted are 60 graceful and 
effective either for greenhouse, conservatory, 
or window decoration as a w'ell-flowered 
Fuchsia. It is also easily cultivated, but, 
nevertheless, considerable skill is required to 
grow really fine, clean, healthy, well-flowered 
plants. In order to have fine plants in one 
I season, cuttings should be made of shoots 
that have not exhausted themselves by pro- 
I ducing flowers. They should lx; inserted 

singly inUA-incli pots, or a quantity in 41-inch 
I pots will serve the same purpose. They 
should be plunged in a mild hot-bed or pro* 

1 pagating-pit, and given a gentle watering 
j through a fine-rosed can, which will keep the 
| foliage fresh, and also 6ettle the soil about 
the base of the cuttings. In a few weeks 
| they will emit roots, when they should be 
potted off singly into 3-inch pots. They 
should be kept close for a few days, until the 
roots begin to push into the new soil. A 
1 good compost for Fuchsias is a mixture of 
loam, leaf-mould, and either cow- 
manure or horse-droppings in a 
decomposed state, about three 
parts of the former to one part 
each of the latter, with a good 
dash of sand to keep the whole 
porous; mix all well together 
previous to potting. When the 
young plants begin to grow, the 
shape and size of the plant should 
be determined ; if for a standard, 
the leading shoot should receive 
every encouragement, and be 
kept tied to an upright stake, 
rubbing out all side eyes until 
the desired height is reached, 
when the formation of the head 
should be .encouraged by remov¬ 
ing the points of the leaders, and 
afterwards pinching to every pair 
of leaves made until the desired 
size of head is obtained. If a 
pyramid be the shape aimed at, 
it will be necessary to pinch the 
lenders at an early stnge of 
growth, to induce a bushy habit 
from the first, taking care, how¬ 
ever, to train up another shoot 
as leader as the plants progress ; 
it may also be npcessary to con¬ 
tinue to pinch the side shoots 
several times in succession, in 
order to induce a still more dense 
habit, particularly if a large 
specimen is required. If this 
method of pinching be neglected 
in the earlier stages of cultiva¬ 
tion, it will be almost impossible 
to obtain well-grown pyramidal 
specimens, no matter how dili¬ 
gently the cultivator may attend 
to their requirements after¬ 
wards. 


of the best Roses for pergolas are summer- 
flowering only, and their blossoms produced 
chiefly in clusters are not in much demand 
when there is a glut of better quality blos¬ 
soms. It is true such sorte ns Dorothy Per¬ 
kins, Lady Gay, and Hiawatiia will blossom 
when other Roses are waning, and their beau¬ 
tiful trails of bloom are much appreciated 
for table decoration. There are among the 
Climbing Tea, Noisette, and Hybrid Tea 
groups several sorts which grow very fast, 
especially in a mild climate which, we be¬ 
lieve, you have in your part of Ireland. 
These would furnish you with numbers of 
pretty buds when the plants become estab¬ 
lished, but you could not expect much re¬ 
sult until the second or third year. There 
are also some strong-growing sorts among 
what are known as the non-climbing varie¬ 
ties. These could be put against the up¬ 
rights which support the pergola, especially 
oil ;the sunny side, and they would give-you 
some lovely flowers and buds. As to what to 
plant depends upon your market. If you 
want a quantiLy of one sort, then you could 
plant, say, all the pillars with Mme. Abel 
Chatenay, and for the top of pergola, say, 
Wm. Allen Richardsoii^ 


o^Cj 


jrtnl ns 1 Brnw for exhibition, this knowledge would | 
he very useful. R. K. T. 

[As you desire the best varieties that give 
the best results as cut-back plants, wc must 
omit fii'ich sorts as Mildred Grant and 
Horace, which are notably best From maiden 
plants. The selection we should recommend 
is as follows:—Frau Karl Druschki, Mrs. 
John Laing, Ulrich Brunner, Caroline Tes¬ 
tout, Mrs. W. J. Grant, Mrs. R. G. Sliarman 
Crawford, La France, Florence Pemberton, 
Hugh Dickson, Captain Hayward, Lady 
Ashtown, Marquise Litta, White Maman 
Cochet, Mme. Hcste, Souvenir d’un Ami, 
Alfred Colomb, Charles Lefebvre, and 
Souvenir de Pierre Notting.] 

Genistas dropping their flowers ( Mvlenvorth). 
—The cause of this ix impossible to fix with cer¬ 
tainty, but it is very probable that your plants suffer 
from dryness at the rends or in the air of the house. 
The Genista requires, when growing freely, plenty of 
water at the root?. It is essentially a greenhouse 
plant, and needs n fair circulation of air, as if kept 
too close and moist overhead the foliage will soon be 
destroyed by mildew. We fear the Coronilla, judging 
from what you say. has also been kept too dry, and 
has fallen a victim to red-spider and thrips. Syringe 
the plant well, and well moisten the roots, and a 
change, we think, will scon be noted. 


Cuttings struck in September, which is a 
good time to commence specimen Fuchsia- 
growing, should bo thrifty little plants by 
the end of October ; they should then occupy 
| a position near the glass, and where the tem- 
I perature does not fall below 50 decs., bear- 
I ing in mind that it is not desirable to en- 
j courage much growth at that period. They 
I should succeed in the position just indicated 
until about the beginning of January, when 
they may be given a little higher tempera¬ 
ture, such as that of a vinery which is being 
forced would afford ; or, better still, a posi¬ 
tion on a bed of fermenting material, the 
atmosphere about w'hich appears to exactly 
I suit them. They will now begin to grow freely 
in either of the positions just named, and 
I should never be allowed to flag from want of 
water. As soon as the roots begin to show 
themselves at the sides of the 3^-iiicli pot, 
shift into 4 i inch and 6 inch pots, using the 
compost already recommended, but in a 
rougher state than before, and with the addi¬ 
tion of a little bone meal. They should be 
turned round to the light- at least, once a 
i week, to induce,a. uniformity of growth, and 
they should be allowed all the sun obtainable 
! for some time to come. A moist atmosphere 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 











690 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


F-khhuaiiy 2 * 3 , 1908 


should be maintained; therefore, syringe 
overhead in the morning and afternoon when¬ 
ever the weather is favourable. When the 
4$-inch and 6-inch pots are well filled with 
roots, shift into 8£-inch nnd 94-inch pots, 
which will afford room enough in which to 
row the finest specimens. When giving the 
nal shift, pot rather firmly ; the 6oil is apt 
to retain moisture for too long a period if 
potted loosely, and consequently it may be¬ 
come sour beForo the roots have occupied it. 
Thorough drainage should be secured during 
all stages of growth, and the plants should 
be kept in a warm, moist, growing atmos¬ 
phere after their final shift, gradually inur¬ 
ing them to more light and air. As the days 
lengthen and the weather becomes bright, it 
may be necessary in certain eases to afford 
them a little shade for a few hours at mid¬ 
day. Fire-heat may be entirely dispensed 
with from May onwards, and cold draughts 
and sudden changes of temperature should 
be avoided. D. S. 


GARDEN WORK. 

Conservatory. —Zonal Pelargoniums which 
havo been flowering all winter may be cut 
down and the cuttings inserted in sandy loam 
in boxes or pots, and placed on a warm sur¬ 
face and tho sand just kept moist. Japanese 
and Ghent Azaleas are now coming into 
flower with only moderate forcing, and make 
a nice show. I find English-grown plants 
do better than imported ones, as the flowers 
last longer. They are among the easiest 
things to force. Lilacs that were started 
early will now be in flower. Those are now 
grown in pots for at least one season for for¬ 
cing. There are several of the deciduous 
Magnolias which flower well in pots and tubs. 
M. stellata is valuable for this, and we have 
amabilis and one or two others in tubs 
coming on quietly and flowering very freely. 
They are distinct and good, and associate 
well with Tree Pceonies and Indian Rhodo¬ 
dendrons in the cool house. Now that forced 
plants are used largely in the conservatory 
the thermometer must not bo permitted to 
sink below 50 degs. A degree or two higher 
will be an advantage. Bulbs of Lilium aura¬ 
l-tun for late flowering should now be potted. 
L. lancifolitun also should 1x2 repotted. 
These come in useful after L. longiflorum is 
over. Lilies and Narcissi are always in de¬ 
mand for cutting. Sweet Peas in pots are 
useful in the conservatory, and they come 
into bloom early, and they may be turned out 
of the pots into the border if there is room 
in a light position. Sow more Mignonette for 
spring blooming. Machet is as good n-s any 
other variety, but it becomes a question of 
selection of the seed plants. The best Mig¬ 
nonette growers save their own seed, and do 
not care to part with it. The same thing 
happened years ago with the best Cockscomb 
growers. * The best combs do not produce 
much seed, and that seldom reached the 
hands of the eecdsmen. Continue to do the 
watering in the morning, and do not spill 
any in cold, damp weather. If green-fly or 
other insects are visible, attack them at once 
with the vaporiser. 

Stove. —There is always some repotting to 
do at this season. Of course, young plants 
can be shifted on as they want more room, 
but there are a few older specimens which 
have exhausted the soil, and will bear re¬ 
ducing if repotted into good fibrous stuff. 
Most people grow a few Orchids, and at this 
season and later they should be overhauled, 
the old, sour stufT piekod out, with any old 
roots which have Inst tone, and the plants 
reblocked or placed in fresh baskets or pots, 
using the best fibrous peat and Sphagnum 
Moss chopped up. Often bits of charcoal 
may be mixed with the compost and the pots 
half-filled with drainage. Cypripediums, 
Deudrobiums, Oncidiums, and others which 
have finished blooming may have attention 
now. Use the syringe daily now, and be very 
careful with the water-pot among recently- 
potted plants. Cuttings of both flowering 
and fine foliaged plants will root now in brisk 
bottom-heat-. All the usual winter-flowering 
soft-wooded plnnU will root freely now, and 
seeds of many things* may be bow. Several 
forme of lmpatrcms by loused from 


seeds sown now. 1. Holsti is rather pretty, 
and flowers freely. 

Hard-wooded plants. —What, is termed 
the temperate-house will now be very in¬ 
teresting, if filled with New Holland and 
other plants requiring a night temperature 
of 50 degs. These will include Boronias, 
Aphelexis, Adenandra, Chorozemas, Coleo- 
nema rubra, Correa speciosa major, Diosma, 
Eriostemon, Eutaxia myrtifolia, Hibbertia 
den tat a, Pimcleos, Polygalas, and Rogeria 
gratissima. The above are mostly family 
names, and include many varieties, and make 
a charming show in spring, but, for the mo¬ 
ment, they are not fashionable, though their 
day will come again. They are not difficult 
to grow in good peat and*loam, with some 
sharp sand to keep it open. Good drainage, 
firm potting, and careful watering are 
essential, and Heaths, if included, should be 
kept at the cool end of the house, where 
more ventilation is given. The two sections 
are often grown together, but are better 
separated. 

Azaleas after flowering. Remove all 
faded flowers and seed-pods, and give the 
foliage a good wash with the syringe. Keep 
close whilst making growth, and 6yringe 
freely. If there are any thrips on the foli¬ 
age, vaporise twice, with one day between. 

If any plants require repotting, better do it 
now, although repotting is often done in 
autumn from necessity, because imported 
plants usually come to hand in September ; 
but if the plants arc now in good condition 
repotting may not be necessary. Large speci¬ 
mens often go several years without repot¬ 
ting, if helped with liquid manure. When 
growth is completed move to a cool, airy 
house, and in July place outside till the 
middle of September, but syringe and water 
when necessary. 

Making new Vine-borders. March is a 
good month for planting new vineries, and 
the borders should be made some time before 
to give time for settling. If the plants arc 
turned out of pots, liberate as many roots as 
possible of those coiled round the ball, and 
spread . them out well. Disbud when the 
Vines break, leaving about two buds near 
the bottom to be trained in when the foliage 
expands. Cut back the Vines to the first 
leads, as there will then be no bleeding. In 
making the borders, adopt the piecemeal sys¬ 
tem where possible, and add more soil as the 
roots extend. Use turfy loam from an old 
pasture, not too light, and fortified with 
bone-meal or Thomson’s manure. A pro¬ 
perly-made chemical manure has great force 
behind it. The surface can afterwards be 
mulched with stable - manure, to check 
drought. 

Sweet Peas in tubs or large pots.—I 

once saw an avenue of Sweet Peas ranged 
along a broad path. They had been sown 
thinly in Seakale pots, reversed, so that the 
widest opening came to the top. They had 
been given good soil and liquid-manure, were 
neatly staked, and presented a charming ap¬ 
pearance. I mention this now because I 
think those with a small garden might try it. 

Flowers for cutting.— There is a big de¬ 
mand for the Narcissus family now. There 
are still a few Chrysanthemums, but the 
season for them is now virtually over. 
Freesias, when well flowered, can be cut with 
good stems. The flower-stems of the Dutch 
Roman Hyacinths arc much longer than these 
of tho French bulbs. Cinerarias are not of 
much use for cutting, but the carmine 
variety of Primula obconica grandiflora is 
charming mixed witli the light foliage of 
Asparagus. I 

Outdoor garden. Those who buy new I 
things, especially in trees and shrubs, should 
he careful in selecting and preparing the 
sites. Keep an eye upon them afterwards, 
and give help where required. If a tree ap¬ 
pears sluggish in growth, open a trench round 
it, and ascertain the cause. Very often n 
little good compost placed over and round 
the roots without causing much disturbance 
of the roots will encourage and start them 
on their way. I have seen this effectively 
done several years after they were planted, 
when, if no help had been given they might 
have dwindled and died. A top-dressing of 


good compost will help old trees, such as 
Conifers, which have exhausted the soil 
within their reach. I have seen Cedars very 
much improved by a top-dressing of good 
loam and leaf-mould. All arrears of work 
should be pushed forward now. Where the 
ground is in suitable condition, all kinds of 
hardy herbaceous plants may go in. Better 
use a board to stand on when planting, un¬ 
less the surface is perfectly dry. Sweet Peas 
may be sown outside thinly, either in clumps 
or lines. Manure and improve the positions. 
Top-dress weak lawns with artificial manure. 

Fruit garden.— Finish all pruning and 
training as soon as possible, aud attend to 
spraying, to destroy insects. Lichens, and 
Moss on the trees. ‘This is the time to com¬ 
mence the war with insects. The buds will 
soon start now, and the spraying with alkali 
and other strong fluids must be discontinued. 
Old Apple, Pear, and Plum-trees will bene¬ 
fit from a top-dressing of manure or manorial 
compost. Fruit-trees may yet be moved, if 
necessary. It is not always possible to get 
all the planting done in autumn. Look oyer 
fruit stores, and remove all decayed fruits. 
Choice samples of late Pears that were 
packed in boxes or barrels should be taken 
out and examined. If they were sound when 
packed up they will be ir good condition now. 
Beurre Ranee is a good Pear for this season, 
when it has been grown on a sunny wall and 
not gathered too soon. Lord Burghley Apple 
should now be in good condition. I have 
had it good till the end of April, or later. 
Cockle Pippin is a useful late dessert Apple. 
Annie Elizabeth and Alfriston are good cook¬ 
ing Apples at this season, and those who like 
a crisp, juicy Apple may eat them raw. 
Strawberries are now showing signs of 
growth, and surface stirring will help them. 

Vegetable garden.— When the land is in 
good working order all kinds of early crops 
may be sown or planted. These will include 
Peas, Beans, Potatoes, Carrots, Lettuces, 
and Radishes. On the warm border Spinach 
may bo sown between rows of Peas as a 
catch crop a little later. The autumn-sown 
Spinach will give a supply till June, if a part 
of it is cut down. Young growths will conic 
away from the bottom and be very useful. 
This, of course, will not be done till the 
plants begin to run. Sow a few seeds or 
Celery in heat, and prick the seedlings off oil 
a hot-bed. They will be useful for flavouring. 
The main crop may be sown next month, 
and the plants for the late supply may be 
sown outside in the middle of April. Take 
up Jerusalem Artichokes and Parsnips still 
in the ground. Tho Artichokes may be re¬ 
planted as far as is necessary, and the re¬ 
mainder covered with 6oil in a cool place for 
present and future use. Sow a few pots of 
Busli Basil and Sweet Marjoram to come on 
in heat. Supplies of green Mint and Tarra¬ 
gon can be kept up by introducing fresh roots 
in boxes to warm-house. Sow ^Mustard nnd 
Cress in boxes in heat. E. Hobday. 


THE COMING WEEK’S WORK. 

Extracts from a Garden Diary. 

February Slfth.— Sowed several kinds of 
early Peas and Long-Pod and Dwarf Cluster 
Beans. Moved Onions sown in boxes to cool 
frame to harden off. Shifted on some plants 
of the Early Erfurt Cauliflower. These 
generally come early in 6-inch pots in a 
moderately warm pit. Planted a frame from 
which Asparagus lias been taken with Paris 
Market Cabbage Lettuces. 

February 25th.— Dug trenches round 
several large trees, conifers, etc., to prepare 
them for moving next season. Finished 
pruning, training, and washing Morello 
Cherries on north wall. Several years ago 
these trees used to cast their fruit a good 
deal after setting. A good dressing of lime 
was given, and this appears to have restored 
them to health. Stone fruits use up lime 
largely. 

February 20th.— We have still some Rnses 
I to plant. Teas and Hybrid Teas in pots will 
be held over for a (time, but all Roses lifted 
direct from the ground will be planted na 
1 fcoou as the beds are in suitable condition. 



February 22, 1903 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


691 


In this instance beds of only one or two 
kinds will be planted, such us Frau Karl 
Druschki and Caroline Teatout. The old 
General Jacqueminot makes an excellent 
crimson mass. 

February 27th .—We are busy now potting 
off bedding Pelargoniums and putting in cut¬ 
tings of various kinds, os it is necessary to 
have a margin beyond absolute requirements. 
Sowed various kinds of sub tropical plants. 
These must be grown on in heat, to get 
strong planks for turning out early in June. 
Sowed more Sweet Peas outside, also in tubs. 

February $Sth .—Vacant plots in the 
kitchen garden are being manured and 
trenched. Made a sowing of Asparagus, 
and planted cuttings of Seakale roots. The 
land for these had been well prepared. 
Early crops of several kinds have been 
planted on warm south border. Successional 
crops will follow shortly in longer rows in the 
open quarters. 

February 29th.- Made up another Mush¬ 
room bed indoors. Started more Seakale 
and Chicory in heat to blanch. All seed 
Potatoes have been placed in a suitable posi¬ 
tion for developing the crown eyes. Re¬ 
arranged conservatory and filled vacancies 
from other houses. There is plenty of 
flowers now to brighten up everything. 
Other plants have been moved from reserve 
in cool-house to forcing-house. 


ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 
February 11th, 1908. 


The usual fortnightly meeting was held on 
the above-named date. Carnations, Lilies, 
forced shrubs, Primulas, and Persian Cycla¬ 
mens were, with Orchids, the chief features 
to be seen. A remarkable collection of Pota¬ 
toes from Messrs. Sutton and Sons may be 
regarded as unique. It being also the occa¬ 
sion of the holding of the annual meeting, a 
large number of visitors were present. Car¬ 
nations in great variety, Primula kewensis, 
Kalanehoe Dyeri, a white-flowered species 
from Central Africa, with Azalea indica in 
variety, Coleus thyrsoideus, etc., from 
Messrs. James Veitch and Son, were much 
admired, the Carnations being particularly 
good, and in all the leading kinds. A collec¬ 
tion of Chinese Primulas also came from this 
firm, the blossoms being of large size and sub¬ 


stance. The collection of Lilies and Carna¬ 
tions from Mr. W. II. Page, Tangloy Park 
Nurseries, Hampton, fully demonstrated the 
skill of that well-known market florist. The 
Lilies, chiefly of the sjieeicsiim and longi- 
florum section, were admirably grown and 
flowered ; while something like a score of 
vases filled with Carnations in the leading 
kinds (each vase containing some three dozen 
or more blooms), made, perhaps, the most 
6 Uinptuous feast of these flowers ever brought 
together. Owing to lack of room, however, 
the group was not seen to the l>est advantage, 
the Lilies being somewhat, crowded. Ported 
shrubs, including Azaleas, Wistaria, Primus, 
Magnolias, and the like were very fine, as ex¬ 
hibited by the Messrs. Cuthbert, Southgate. 
A very fine feature of the exhibition was the 
display of Primula sinensis from Messrs. 
Sutton and Sons, Reading, the arrangement 
of the distinct colours being noteworthy. 
The Czar, intense violet-blue, Reading Blue, 
Brilliant King, and the valuable Duchess 
strain were all well represented. The giant 
strain is also remarkable, and contains pink 
and pure white among the leading forms. 
Some excellent double and semi-double varie¬ 
ties were also noted. Carnations, with Lily 
of the Valley, Cyclamen, etc., were shown by 
Messrs. Hugh Low and Co., Enfield, the Car¬ 
nations being represented by a grand collec¬ 
tion of those flowers. Mr. W. Seward, lion- 
well, had a grand lot of his well-grown 
Cyclamens in crimson, white, and salmon 
shades, the white-flowered kinds being re¬ 
markable for size and purity. 

From High gale the Messrs. Cutbush and 
Sons brought collections of forced shrubs. 
Carnations in great variety, and a rockery 
exhibit with alpines and flowering shrubs, 
which attracted a good deal of attention. 
Mr. E. A. Hambro, Hayes, Kent (gardener, 


obconica and Cyclamen, the plants being 
tastefully arranged and interspersed with fine- 
foiiaged plants. A collection of hardy ever¬ 
green Ferns from Messrs. H. B. May and 
Sons, Edmonton, was of more than ordinary 
interest, the created Scolopendriums and the 
many forms of Polystiehum and Polypodium 
alone rendering the group a remarkable one. 
Cut sprays of Rhododendrons, with water- 
colour drawings of the same, were freely 
shown by Mr. F. Gill, Falmouth. Mr. L. R. 
Russell, Richmond, again brought a largo 
variety of variegated and evergreen shrubs, 
with Ivies and the like. Mr. Palmer, 
Andover, brought Primulas; the Messrs. 
Peed and Sons, in addition to many alpines 
in pots, had a large variety of Primula ob¬ 
conica, Lachenalias, etc.; while Mr. Burnett, 
Guernsey, had a few choice Carnations. The 
Guildford Hardy Plant Nursery had a variety 
of the shrubby Veronicas and hardy Heaths, 
which latter are distinctly valuable at this 
season. The Messrs. Waterer and Sons, Bag- 
shot, had a group of choice conifers in many 
distinct kinds, the Messrs. T. S. Ware, Ltd., 
Feltham, bringing boxes of alpines and Car¬ 
nations with Lenten Roses. These last 
too, were well shown by the Messrs. Barr, 
who, in addition, had choice early bulbs in 
variety and a splendid example of Adonis 
amurensis. The St. George's Nursery Com¬ 
pany had a large group of Cyclamens, and 
the Misses Hopkins, Mere, Shepperton, had 
a small group of early hardy flowers. The 
exhibit of Mr. G. Reuthe, Keston, Kent, 
abounded in interest, the alpines being especi¬ 
ally good and numerously displayed. 

The Orchids were not numerous on this 
occasion, the Messrs. Cypher, of Cheltenham, 
having the most imposing display, in which 
Lycostcs, Cymbidiums, Odontoglossoms, and 
Cypripediums were well shown. The Messrs. 
Veitch had an interesting lot of thirty-two 
seedling Cypripediums, also Platyclinis 
glumacea, with white, feathery plume-like 
inflorescences. Messrs. Heath and Son, Chel¬ 
tenham, had Cypripediums nnd Odontoglos- 
sums, while the Messrs. Low and Co., En¬ 
field, and the Messrs. Stanley Bros., South- 
gate, also staged small groups of these plants. 
Mr. J. Bradshaw, The Grange, Southgate, 
likewise had a good group of Orchids, in 
which were seen Lycastes in variety, Cymbi¬ 
diums, Odontoglossums, Cattleya Trian® 
alba, Oncidium varicosum Rogersi, etc. The 
only gold medal awarded on this occasion 
went to Messrs. Sutton and Sons for the 
fine collection of Potatoes. In all there were 
over 200 baskets of tubers displayed, to¬ 
gether with seventy-nine wild species and 
hybrids. In so large a collection it need 
hardly lie said that every known variety of 
merit was to be found, and the perfect char¬ 
acter of the tubers at this season of the year 
was a subject of general remark. Of more 
than ordinary interest was the collection of 
Oranges, Citrons, etc., from the Messrs. 
Rivers and Son, of Sawbridgeworth, the 
handsome, well fruited trees in pots com¬ 
manding attention, though, from being 
raised far above the ordinary vision, they 
could not be seen .to advantage. A few dishes 
of Apples and Pears from Mr. W. Roupell, 
Streatham, were much admired. 

The list of awards at the above meeting 
will be given in our next issue. 


BIRDS. 

Canaries dying (Mrs. Jiawson ).—The 
darker-coloured of the two birds sent died of 
congestion of the liver, probably by reason 
of having somehow caught a chill. Perhaps 
it was naturally of delicate constitution. 
The other bird succumbed to over-fatness, 
caused through too rich diet. As the birds 
are kept several together, it is possible that 
the one in question was somewhat self-assert¬ 
ive, or, again, it may be that you have been 
sparing in the matter of greenstuff, the lack 
of which causes fatness in some birds. If 
your remaining birds seem too fat, drop the 
Hemp entirely for a time, and give a little 
Millet along with the canary-seed. There is 
no infection to be feared in either case under 
consideration.— J. T. Bird. 


CORRESPONDENCE.' 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

Cutting back Stephanotis(.4. Crankshaw ).—You 
must not prune the Htephanotis, with the exception 
of taking out any very weak shoots. It is the long 
growths that you now have that will flower from the 
axils of the leaves. If you cut away these growths 
you sacrifice the bloom and merely get more flower- 
less wood of the same character. 

Removing plants (Enquirer). — The perenniuls 
may certainly he divided, and be replanted during 
March, but there would he no occasion for potting, as 
in September, both these and the Hoses could bo 
moved quite well. If the Carnations were layered 
early in July, the layers could be transplanted well 
at the same time with impunity. In the case of dry 
weather a heavy watering should precede and follow 
the work of planting. 

Six good decorative Chrysanthemums ior 
late October and early November flowering 

(Amateur ).—The under-mentioned varieties should be 
at their best at the same time as Vi viand Morel 
comes into flower. They are all of easy culture and 
reliable. Bronze Soleil d’Oetobre, bronzy-fawn sport 
from Soleil d’Oetobre; Gladys Roult, pure white; 
Money Maker, a beautiful white sort ; Mrs. Green- 
lield, rich yellow; Ivory, pure white; Mychctt Beauty, 
golden-yellow; nnd little Mitchell, bronzy-yellow. 

Sowing annuals, etc. (.in Amateur Subscriber). 
—Sow the Shirley Poppies towards the end of March 
in the open air, ns also the Nasturtiums and Sweet 
Pens. You can make another sowing of each a fort¬ 
night later, so as to have a succession of bloom. 
Start the Dahlia tubers on a hotbed or in a warm- 
nouse towards the end of February, if you want to 
increase your stock. If not, tlun start them in 
March and plant out in May. You can purchase 
young rooted plants of Huge and Thyme very cheaply. 
The Scarlet Runnels may he sown about the middle 
or towards the end of May. 

Gardenias, pruning <.4. Cranksha te). — When 
finished flowering priming is necessary. Cut them 
well back and give a good syringing, or d.ip in soft- 
soap and water, to cleanse from all pests. Lay the 
plants on their side to prevent the solution from 
draining into the roots. As soon as the plants have 
commenced to. make new grow th shake out of the 
pots and remove a portion of the old soil, care being 
taken not to injure the new roots. Pot again into 
the same mixture as before, in pots according to the 
size of the plant. As n rule. Gardenias do bust when 
planted out in rather low warm-houses. 

Top dressing a lawn (Culver and M. A. S.).— 
A good dressing for your lawn would be as follows:— 
One-half of the quantity of the compost required 
should be loam, one - fourth thoroughly decayed 
manure, such ns an old Mushroom-bed or an old hot¬ 
bed, and one-fourth road-sweepings or the residue 
from the burning of garden rubbish, etc. Home bone- 
meal would also make a good addition. Mix nil to¬ 
gether, then pass it through a fine sieve to rid it of 
stones and oilier substances. Spread it evenly over 
the lawn, afterwards workuig it in by sweeping the 
surface with n Birch broom, first lengthwise nnd then 
in the opposite direction. It April give a dressing of 
nitrate of soda at the rate of 3 lb. per square rod. 

The Marguerite Daisy-fly (.4n Old Subscriber). 
-We could find no leaves in the letter you sent. 
We suspect, however, that your plants have been 
attacked by the Marguerite Daisy-fly. When many 
leaves are attacked the plants are rendered very un¬ 
sightly, and also suffer in health. The only way to 
destroy this insect is to cut olf the infected leaves 
aud burn them, or if the attack has only commenced, 
to pinch the leaves where the grubs are. Syringing 
with an insecticide is of very little use, as it would 
not reach the grubs, but it might prevent the flies 
laying their eggs on the leaves, if it could be applied 
at the right time. You will find an article on ** Pot¬ 
ting Ferns" it. our issue of March 17th, 1900; a copy 
can he hud, post flee, for ljd. 

Pruning climbing Roses (J. C. J .).—You do not 
say whether the plants were pot-grown or from the 
open ground. As the two varieties—Carmine Pillar 
aud Dorothy Perkins—have growths 12 feet in length, 
we suppose that they were pot-grown plants, if so 
you should retain such growths to almost the en¬ 
tire length. But supposing all were .plants from the 
open ground, then we should advise you to cut moat 
of the growths back to within about 2 feet of the 
ground. You might retain, say, one growth on each 
plant, 4 feet to 5 feet in length, selecting the hardest 
and best ripened. This would give a few blossoms, 
and the others would provide new growth, which, as 
jt were, forms the framework of the future speci¬ 
men. This pruning should not be done until March. 
The subsequent pruning of the Roses you name will 
be of a different character. When the plants become 
established you must encourage all the young growth 
possible and retain this to its full length or nearly 
so each season. When the plants contain several old 
growths these must he removed after flowering, so as 
to allow the young w ood to ripen off better. 

Clover in tennis-lawn <Z.).—Clover is present in 
varying degrees in most lawns, and with the excep¬ 
tion of croquet and tennis-courts its growth is gener¬ 
ally encouraged rather than otherwise, as it imparts 
a deep-green appearance to the sward in the height 
of summer, in consequence of its being able to with¬ 
stand the heat of the sun without burning, as is the 
case with Grass, for instance. Where, however, it is 
liable to be subjected to much traffic, as in the case 
of a croquet or tennis-court, it is apt to turn black 
and become slippery, besides rendering the sward un¬ 
sightly. For this reason Clover-seed should never be 
mixed with Grass-seods for the sowing down of either 
cue or the other, and then such trouble as you‘have 
to complain of would never arise. We know most 
seedsmen mix a certain amount of Clover-seed with 
the "Grasses" for sowing lawns with, but they will 
exclude it if requested *o do so, and we, therefore, 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



605 


QAnmmm illustrated. 


FiJn-.iBARr 22, 190S 


advi.se you wlit-ii resowing to uw Gras*i-ccds only. 
The only thing we can advise you to do in the way 
of destroying the Clover-plimt is to drag the surface 
with a rake backwards and forwards, and then in 
the reverse direction If you rake deeply and vigor¬ 
ously in the manner described, you will get rid of a 
great deal, if not all, of it, and although much drags 
will also unavoidably be destroyed at the same time, 
you can replace this by sowing Graso-seed in all the 
bare places when the time arrives for doing so. 

FRUIT. 

Orange leaves dirty (U- McD. Phillpots).— The 
sediment on the leave® is caused through scale, which 
we found iu great numbers on the backs of the leaves 
you send, l-ntil you thoroughly clear oil this pest 
the leaves will retain the dirty appearance. See reply 
to "A. 0.,’* in our i*ue of February Mb. p. -166. re 
•• Palm unhealthy.” Deal with your orange-tree* in 
the same way. 

Pruning the Morello Cherry (/In Old Con¬ 
stant Reader).—When pruning the Morello Cherry, the 
best way is to cut out the weakest of the young 
wood, leaving the rest to its full length, the spur 
*ystem not being suited to this Cherry, which bears 
on the young wood. When the weak and ill-placed 
shoots, including all foreright growths, have been re¬ 
moved. there is very often still too much wood left 
for the good of the tree. This crowding is best dealt 
with by removing some of the weakest branches, re¬ 
placing the remainder so that the wall space may be 
covered with young wood at as nearly equal distances 
apart as possible. 

Apples falling prematurely (Af- O. S.).— As 
you say your Apple-tree buds are bursting already, 
your position in county Kerry must ire a very warm 
one. As your garden in which the trees arc growing 
is surrounded by a wall 10 feet in height, it is obvious 
that the air in thus enclosure must in the summer 
become very heated, and that may be a cause of 
your Apple-fruits falling so prematurely; or the roots, 
the trees having been seventeen years planted, may 
have gone deep into very poor soil, and produce 
neither robust, fertile organs nor healthy fruits. It is 
also possible that the bloom in opening so early 
suffers from late frostB, which seriously cripple the 
organs of fertility, for if these be not so, and proper 
core and seed® created in the Apples, they will fall 
early as yours have. It is even possible that the tree 
bloom may be severely attacked by the codlin-moth, 
and thus cause the fruit to fall early. 

VEGETABLES. 

Cliards (P. R. J.).-These are the blanched stems 
of the (Holm Artichoke. Often there are old stems 
of the Artichoke which ore not of much use to keep 
for future stock. These should be used as chards. 
After the heads have been cut in July, cut away the 
old stems which have borne such heads, also any of 
the stronger growths which would be likely to give 
heads later on. Leave about three of the most suit¬ 


able suckers to a stool, and to encourage* growth 
give a soaking of liqtiid-manurc. About the middle , 
of October draw the foliage of each sucker together ; 
and bind up with a hay-band, banking the whole up 
with soil to blanch it. Blanching will have been com¬ 
pleted in about a month or six weeks. 

Failing Broccoli fFermoyle).— We should wish 
you had more clearly stated whether the plants which 
produced very small, white heads and then went to 
seed were Cauliflowers or Broccoli®. Possibly, they 
were Autumn Giant Cauliflowers. In anv case, if you 
want Cauliflowers to head in during the early and 
late autumn, get seed of Autumn Giant and Mam¬ 
moth, and sow it outdoors in drills, netted over to 
keep off birds, from the middle to end of March. You 
i should then have strong plants to make two plant- 
! ings —one earlv, and the'other late in July. If you 
want white Broccoli to stand the winter and produce 
j white heads at. this time of the year, sow seed in 
I April and May for succession. Get Christmas White, 
Leamington, Knight’s Protecting, and Late Queen. 
Broccoli docs best and becomes hardiest if the soil, 
after the planting, be trodden hard, as that checks 
strong, leafy growth. During very severe winters | 
Broccolis are apt to be killed wholesale. 

Skirret (P. B. .7.1.—This is a plant with numerous 
swollen roots forming a bunch from the upper part 
of the neck, somewhat like Dahlia-root8, but much 
larger and more slender. The roots are greyish- 
white, flesh Arm. very white and sweet. The centre 
of the root consists of a woody core, which if not 
removed before cooking is very detrimental to the 
root as a vegetable, and is not easily removed from 
the fleshy part. Skirret is easily increased by seed, 
oil-sets, or di\ision of the roots. Sow tlie seed in 
early spring, and when fit plant out the seedlings in 
rich'moist soil. Such plants will bear freely in the 
following autunn. They require plenty of moisture 
during the summer if the season should happen to 
be dry. Divisions may be planted in April and 
treated in the same way as seedlings. Skirret is quite 
hardy, and the roots may be left in the ground all 
the winter, only lifting as wanted for use. The roots, 
which are very tender and slightly floury, are used in 
the same way as those of Salsafy or Scorzonera. 

( Rheum raponticum and its varieties form the common 
Rhubarb used for cooking. 


SHORT REPLIES. 


' J. C. Symmg. — 1, You had hetter move the 
! Laburnum away from the Privet-hedge, which is the 
cause of the tree failing to grow, as it robs the 
■ ground of all goodness and starves the Laburnum. 
; It will never do any good if you have it where it is. 
[ 2. A good plant for the grave would be the white 
; form of the Tufted Hairhell, Campanula ctespitosa. 

1 - J. Jackson.—A s far as we can see, there are no 

trices of the mite on the Flack Currant-shoots you 
I send.- Francis Fitzmaurice.— See reply to "R.H.K.,” 


re " A|ik>s in lawn,'’ iu our issue of Junuttry 4th. p. 
596. The materials you meution will not clear the 

Mass ott.-P. Lohn.—T)o not remove the manure. 

Break it down with a wooden rake, and in April 
fork up the surface and cover with some fine 
soil, over which sow some good GrusB-seed.—— A. J. P. 
—See reply to L. M. Baker re “ Grubs of Vine* 

weevil®," in this issue, p. 688;- Garner and Son*. 

—You will find a list in “ The Garden Annual,” 

from this office, price Is.-T. U. W. — No; 

the material you refer to is of no value, as nothing 
whatever, however well it may be manured, will 

do any good in such.- A. 11. Bishop. — The 

best book for your purpose will be ” Stove and 
Greenhouse Plants,” by Balnea, from thl3 office; with¬ 
out illustrations, price 5s., postage 6d.; illustrated, 

12s 6d--A'. V. Z., Cheshire.— Please send ft fresh 

specimen or a piece of the shoot if you can.- 

Amateur. — Your best, plan will he to procure a copy 
of ” The English Flower Garden,” in which the whole 
question of hardy plant* is fully dealt with and selec¬ 
tions for various positions given. You should ask a 
*r<iener friend of your district to advise you. It Is 

very difficult to advise without seeing the garden.- 

Bee.— You say nothing aa to where the Violets are 
grown, but, judging from your address, if they are 
growm in London, then the cause is undoubtedly want 
of aim, and with a change to more favourable 
weather the bhioms will, no doubt, develop satis¬ 
factorily.- J. C. Gale.—Your best plan will be to 

insert an advertisement in our pages.- Ignoramus. 

—You can only press the leave® in the way those you 
sent have been treated, but we doubt if they will re¬ 
tain their colour. We foil to see what object you 

have in view.- Fenn, Middleton.— The leaves you 

send have been dyed with one of the aniline dyes, 
and the colour will not remain permanent after the 
leaves have been exposed to the atmosphere. We do 
not reply to queries by post. See our rules to corre¬ 
spond cuts. __ - 

NAMES OF PLANTS AND FRUITS. 

Names of plants (J. M., Stirlingshire).- Adiantum 

concinnuni.- Captain O. !?.* Cameron.— Billbergia 

vittata; native of Brazil.- Ken.— Helleborus colchi- 

cus.- No signature.— Arum Dracuncirtus, or it may 

be A. italicum—must see in bloom to be quite cer¬ 
tain. 

Names of fruits.-B. W. F.- Red or Winter 
Hawthornden.- F. H. S .-Apple not recognised. 


Catalogues received —John Smellie, Busby, near 
Glasgow.— Catalogue of Dahlias, Pansies, Violas, etc. 

-C. K. Shilling, Hartley Nurseries, Wincheater.*- 

Seeds, Roses, Bulbs , Fruit-trees, etc. -Sutton and 

Sons, Reading.— Farmer's Year Book for 190S .—- 
Messrs. Barr and Sons, 12 and 13, King-street, Co vent 
Garden, W.C.— List of Anemoues, Begonias, Cannot, 
etc. -MM. Vilmorin et Cie., Pari*.-Lwt of Chryi- 

anthemums 



may be made to produce a continuous supply of 
Vegetables throughout the year If proper treat¬ 
ment is given to the soil, and suitable varieties of 
Vegetables are grown. 

Messrs. SUTTON specially prepare Collections 
containing varieties selected for the purpose. One 
of the following Collections will certainly suit your 
garden, whatever the size m'iy he. 

A Complete Collection, for a Villa Carden... 21/- 

Coilectlon of 44 Varieties . 12/6 

Collection of 39 Varieties . 10 6 

Collection of 32 Varieties . 7/6 

Collection of 23 Varieties . Si- 


Particulars of Contents will be sent post 
free on application. 


" Your Collection of Reeds »8 a marvel of cheapness. I am 
very pleased with it."—E. Rf.M Ks, Eat j.,8 tone ho use. 

“ For many years T hare been in the habit of getting my box 
of Seeda from you. This year I was persuaded to order where 
I could get them cheaper, but never again !" 3. CROWDER, 
Ksq., East Oakley. 


SUTTON & SONS, 


The King’s Seedsmen, 

READING, ENGLAND 








GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


NO. 1,512. —VOL. XXIX. Founded by IF. Robinson, Author of “The English Flotccr Garden." FEBRUARY 29, 1908. 


Annuals, hardy .. .. 698 

Annuals, sowing .. 7u4 
Apolea, scarcity of good 

English.702 

A mica narcissi Bora .. 700 
Carpenteria californiea 695 

Chicory.691 

Chrysanthemums .. 701 
Chrysanthemu ms, 
brightly-coloured, for 
the outdoor garden .. 704 
Chrysanthemums, early- 
flowering .. .. 704 

Chrysanthemums—sport 
from Souvenir de 
Petite Amie .. .. 704 

Cockscombs .. .. 700 

Conservatory .. .. 70J 


Croton-stems, spots on 700 
Crowfoot, the Snowy 
(Ranunculus amplest- 

caul us).698 

Cucumbers iu frames .. 703 
Daphne Dauphine .. 695 

Erica lusitaniea .. 695 

Forcing-house .. .. 7»'3 

Fruit .701 

Fruit garden .. .. 703 

Garden diary, extracts 

from a.703 

Garden work .. .. 703 

Gardens, water for 

London.700 

Garrya elliptica .. .. 695 

Greenhouse, erecting a 700 
llorse-radish ..693 


VEGETABLES. 


HOUSE RADISH. 

This appears to be grown extensively on the 
Continent for the London market, but one 
would have thought equally as good thongs 
could be produced in this country, if given 
the correct treatment. It is a much-neglected 
root in many gardens, and yet in constant 
demand, which makes it more difficult to 
understand why better cultivation is not 
afforded it. As a rule, it is given a back 
seat in most gardens. Any out-of-the-way 
corner is deemed good enough for it, hence 
the reason why so many spiked roots instead of 
one good long thong a foot in length are seen. 
February or early March is a suitable time to 
plant the sets, which need not be longer than 
4 inches, those having a crown at the top 
being preferable, although long roots may be 
cut up for the purpose when crowns are 
scarce. Each piece must have two or more 
eyes or joints. This root delights in a deep, 
rich soil and fairly moist. The ground 
should be trenched 2£ feet deep, the manure 
placed at the bottom, over this 6 inches of 
soil, and then the set#?, placed 18 inches apart, 
the next row to be ut the same distance, and, 
as the next trench is taken out, the soil placed 
over the sets. Another way is to trench the 
ground first, placing the manure 2 feet below 
the surface, and then plant with a crowbar 
or a round stick, similar in shape, letting this 
down to the manure, dropping in the set, and 
covering with soil, care being taken that the 
soil is left quite loose along the row. Good 
results follow either plan, and fine roots will 
be forthcoming towards winter; but natur¬ 
ally another year’s growth will be better. 
Keep all flowers cut off, and remove decayed 
foliage in winter. A fresh site should be 
given to each plantation, and the ground that 
has grown Horse-Radish must be deeply 
trenched, and all roots picked out, or they 
will prove a great nuisance to whatever crop 
i« planted thereon. J. Mayne. 


MUSTARD AND CRESS GROWING FOR 
MARKET. 

Kindly tell me how to grow Mustard and Cress on a 
large acale? 1 tried it last year, but during the 
autumn, the Cress went mouldy. The Rape I 
munaged fairly well. The soil is that from an old 
Cueumber-bcd. How shall I commence?— Subscriber. 

[This differs very materially from Mustard 
and Cress culture in private gardens. The 
market growers do not use Mustard at all, 
but Rape, which is cheaper than Mustard, 
is milder, and grows rather more quickly. 
In this business a wonderful quantity of seed 
is used, as it is grown pretty well all the 
year round. The crop, having to be cut thick 
and very young, seed is sown far more thickly 
than is ordinarily the case. When starting 
Mustard nnd Cress culture in houses ana 
frames, for market, it is necessary to have a 
huge accumulation of soil and well-decayed 
manure, also plenty of heating power. Low, 
span-roofed houses about^Wvfeet wide, with 

Digitized by Go. gle 


IN □ 


Hyacinths, Roman, fail¬ 
ing .704 

Hydrangeas, blue .. 704 

Indoor plants .. .. 700 

Irises : flowers for every 

garden.698 

Ivies, good variegated.. 704 
Mallow, the white 
Round-headed.. 693 

Mustard and Cress grow¬ 
ing for market.. .. 693 

Onion Rousham Park 

Hero .69 4 

Outdoor garden .. .. 703 

Outdoor plants .. .. 697 

Paradise-stocks, graft¬ 
ing .701 

Parsnips, rotting in .. 704 


EX. 


Peach-house, early .. 703 
Peach-trees, unnailing 701 
Pearl Berry (Margyri- 
carpus setosu8). the .. 695 
Pear - trees, pruning 
standard .. 701 

Peas, Sweet, sowing .. 701 
Pcntstemons in the gar¬ 
den .697 

Plantains on lawns .. 704 
Plants and flowers ,. 695 
Plants, flowering, in the 

house.703 

Potatoes, planting .. 694 
Potato-growing .. .. 693 

Primula, Chinese, the 
double-flowered .. 700 
Primula japouica .. 699 


beds on each side and narrow pathways down 
the centre, are best. The soil to a depth of 
3 inches or 4 inches, after a crop has been 
cut from it, should be removed to a heap 
outside, where all such matter ie allowed to 
lie for a year before being re-used, and re¬ 
placed with a similar thickness of fresh soil. 
Houses should not be all sown at the same 
time. A house, 100 feet long, should have 
one-quarter sown, say every other day, as in 
that way a constant succession is main¬ 
tained. In commencing the business it 
would be wise to sow a much less area, in¬ 
creasing the space according to the demand. 
Before sowing, the soil should be thoroughly 
levelled, and the surface made smooth and 
even, then the seed should be soaked in water 
for a few hours, quite absorbing the water, 
so that it is ready at once, after being very 
carefully and evenly sown, to germinate. Of 
couree, a proper watering is given, and gene¬ 
rally of tepid water; then the seed is also 
gently pressed down, then mats are laid over 
it, and, thus being kept moist, growth is 
equal. Because thus laid on the surface of 
the soil and covered up, no grit is lifted with 
it. With proper heat, the material is ready 
for cutting in a few days. Cutting needs, to 
perform it properly, great expertness. Ex¬ 
perienced men use proper sharp knives. 
Sever just the exact quantity to drop into a 
punnet, and an expert cutter will cut an 
immense number of baskets in the hour. 
These are usually tied round neatly with a 
strip of blue paper, then packed into boxes 
in tiers, and so sent to market. In the sum¬ 
mer, sowing usually takes place in large, low 
wooden frames outdoors, the process being 
much the same as previously described, mats 
being laid over the seed as before, and glass 
lights placed over all. The mats, in exclud¬ 
ing light, not only promote quicker and more 
regular growth, but also cause the produce to 
bo more tender and mild. Rape-seed is 
cheap, but really any member of the Brassica 
family will do as well, even Cabbage, Kale, 
or white Turnip-seed. Those who prefer a 
hot product should sow Mustard, although 
much more expensive. In private places the 
rule is "to sow thickly on top of Hoil made 
very level in shallow boxes, and where the 
demand is great, sowing every other day. 
But in such cases Cress should always have 
twenty-four hours’ start of the Mustard. 
Under the market method that start is not 
required.] _ 

POTATO GROWING. 
Experiments in the growing of Potatoes 
from seed obtained from different parks of 
the kingdom have been carried out for some 
years past under the direction of the Surrey 
Education Committee. The results of the 
trials in 1907 arc so remarkable as to call 
for some notice. The Potatoes planted were 
from four different sources, namely, Surrey, 
Lincolnshire. Scotland, and Ireland, the 
samples having been carefully selected and 
planted, under conditions as nearly identical 
as possible, on the farm of Mr. Charles Moon, 


Pyre thrums, planting .. 

704 

Raspberries 

Red Currants 

losing 

702 

their leave3 ., 

702 

Rockets, double.. 
Rockfoil, the 

Great- 

698 

leaved (Saxifraga pel- 


tata) 

Roso gardens, 

muni- 

699 

cipal 

Rose, Guelder, 

etc., 

693 

growing in pots, prim- 




700 

Roses 


696 

Roses, Christmas 


697 

Roses, grafting ., 


696 

Roses, Moss 


694 

Seeds and seed sowing.. 

699 


Solatium capsioastrum 700 
Strawberries in succes¬ 
sion . 7(13 

Tomato fungus .. .. 704 

Trees and shrubs .. 695 
Trees, spring flowers 

under.698 

Vegetable garden .. 703 
Vegetables .. .693 

Vegetables for exhibi¬ 
tion .691 

Verbenas from seed .. 697 
Vinery, early .. .. 703 

Vinery greenhouse, re¬ 
building a .704 

Week's work, the 

coming.703 

Yucca gloriosa, group of 697 


Chessington Court. Ten different varieties 
were grown, and the results were sufficiently 
consistent to prove that the yield was in¬ 
fluenced by the origin rather than the variety 
of the 6eed tubers. Ireland comes out a 
clear first, the Irish seed in seven instances 
having surpassed the Scottish, and in every 
case both the Irish and the Scottish exceeded 
the Lincolnshire and Surrey plots. In 1906 
and 1905 also the Irish seed occupied the first 
place, so that as regards the soil and climate 
of Surrey Irish Potatoes seem superior to any 
other. It may be the ease, however, that 
the Irish Potatoee have enjoyed some advan¬ 
tage in the nature of the land from which 
they have been introduced. According to the 
report, the Irish seed had been grown oil 
strong loam and the Scottish on medium 
soil, and as last year’s crops were grown oil 
a sandy loam, it is conceivable that the 
greater strength of the Irish soil contributed 
to the result. The advantages gained by in¬ 
troducing 6eed from a colder climate and 
from stronger land are shown by the esti¬ 
mated average yields per acre for the whole 
ten varieties. The average for the Surrey 
seed was 3 tons 13 cwfc., for the Lincoln 9 tons 
1£ cwfc., for the Scottish 13 tons 8| ewt., and 
for the Irish 15 tons 13-J cwfc. A change of 
seed involves both trouble and expense ; but 
in the light of these Surrey experiments an 
ample return may lie counted upon. It i« 
usual to attribute the effects of a change of 
seed to climatic influences. It lias been 
suggested, however, that a change of soil is 
also an important consideration, the most 
favourable change being from a heavy to a 
light soil. 

Mr. T. A. Scarlett', a well-known Mid¬ 
lothian grower, gave some interesting figures 
relating to Potato growing in proportion to 
the population in a lecture he delivered to 
the East Lothian Farmers’ Club. After 
pointing out that the acreage under Potatoee 
in the United Kingdom was steadily decreas¬ 
ing, in spite of an increasing population, he 
estimated that the total produce of Great 
Britain for 1908, after deducting the seed 
required for the following year, equalled 
170 lb. per head of the population. For the 
United Kingdom the average was 267 lb. per 
head of population, and of this figure England 
and Wales grew 147 lb. per head, Scotland 
353 lb., and Ireland as much as 1,053 lb. 
Assuming that the consumption in Scotland 
was the same as in England and Wales, a 
surplus of about 300.000 lb., or nearly half 
her crop, was available for sale ill other mar¬ 
kets. This is in itself a substantial item ; 
but as a large proportion was sold for plant¬ 
ing purposes, it is even of greater value than 
it seems, since higher prices are obtained in 
the seed market than at the ordinary com¬ 
mercial sales. If the tuber crop is impor¬ 
tant to Scotland, it is of still more account 
to Ireland, where the quantity produced is 
nearly three times as much per head of popu¬ 
lation. In recent years Ireland has also 
derived increased revenue from the develop- 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



















694 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED . 


February 29, 1908 



nieut of the seed trade ; but it is questionable 
if, apart from early Potatoes, 6he exports a 
larger quantity than Scotland, the rate of 
consumption being vastly higher in relation 
to the population in Ireland than anywhere 
else in the United Kingdom .—The Field. 

ONION ROUSIIAM PARK HERO. 
This variety is, like to Wroxton Onion, one 
of an Oxfordshire selection, and was not so 
many years ago considered one of the finest 
of the flatter forms of Onion then existing. 
It very closely resembles Nuncham Park 
Onion, as was seen recently in a trial of 
Onions at YVisley. Oddly enough, Nuncham 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Vegetables for exhibition —Would you kindly 

oblige by giving the names of the best six varieties 
of vegetables for a collection? The show is fixed for 
August loth, 1908. I have two varieties of Onions up 
in greenhouse, also Leeks, Sunrise Tomatoes, and 
three sorts of Cauliflowers, and white Celery sown.— 
C. 

[We would have been better able to assist 
you in selecting the strongest dishes of vege¬ 
tables to set up at a flower show for competi¬ 
tion about the middle of August next had 
you stated first whether the pointing of the 
exhibits was compulsory on the judges, and 
if so, what conditions as to points were 
added. In very few cases, except where the 


Union Rousham Park Hero 


Park is also in Oxfordshire, hence there 
would seem to have been some competition 
amongst Onion-growers in that county to pro¬ 
duce fine stocks, as all nre really selections 
from older varieties. The illustration of tlie 
variety above-named, here given, shows the 
true form of the base of the bulb, which is 
roundish, flat, and not globular, but the upper 
part shows rather more of “neck” than 
habitually characterises fully matured bulbs, 
but necks or shoulders of the character seen 
here were much in evidence during the past 
season. Of broad, flat types, Rousham Park, 
Nuncham Park, Banbury Cross (another 
Oxford variotO. and Main Crop rauk 
amongst the fim ^t-stocks now itf commerce. 

Digitized by 


conditions require it, is pointing done with 
small collections of six dishes only. But, 
where pointing is made compulsory, in 6ome 
cases the scale of points furnished in the 
Royal Horticultural Society’s rules of judg¬ 
ing is adopted ; in others, as at the great show 
at Shrewsbury, a maximum of seven points 
may be given to each dish. Of course, each 
kind or dish must be first-claes to secure 
the maximum number. The Shrewsbury 
show takes place a week later than the date 
of yours, and the most perfect samples of 
vegetables 6een anywhere are there staged, 
as you may well understand when, as last 
year, one collection of nine dishes won 
£20 10s. There the collections are, ip 


almost every leading one, arranged thus: 
Centre back a pyramid of about six very per¬ 
fect white, solid Cauliflowers, not too large. 
On one side at back, beautiful white or pink 
Celery, very solid and " tall, perfectly 
blanched. On the other side. Leeks, usually 
having perfect white stems 12 inches long. 
In front, a dozen large, perfect Onions. On 
one 6ide very perfect Carrots, and on the 
other Runner Beans, Beets, or Cucumbers; 
and the front line of Tomatoes in the centre, 
with Potatoes on one side and Peas on the 
other. Now, if you can stage good, white, 
solid Cauliflowers, Celery, Leeks, Tomatoes, 
Potatoes and Peas, do 60 . Failing Celery 
and Leeks, have good Carrots, Onions, or 
Runner Beans, but in all cases set up your 
strongest and handsomest dishes. Sunrise 
Tomato is very handsome, but the fruits 
would be better for exhibiting if half as 
large again.] 

Planting Potatoes.— I am thinking of putting 
in as an early crop some Myatt’e Ashleaf. Mine is 
a rather light soil. Do you think this variety will bo 
as suitable as any I can get? If so, what distance 
do the lows want to be apart, and what distance 
the Potatoes in the row-s? As a main crop I propose 
planting Up-to-Date and Duchess of Cornwall, grown 
from Irish seed. Do you think these kinds will prove 
suitable for the soil I have, and what distance apart 
should the main crop be? 1 suppose the early ones 
could be put in any time now?— Amateur, York. 

[A light soil suits early potatoes best, be¬ 
cause it is generally warmer than is a stiff 
soil; but much depends on its quality as to 
whether it will produce good crops, or 
whether Myatt’s Ashleaf may be the best 
first early for you to plant. Duke of York 
is as early, and a better cropper, and to 
succeed that, a fine, heayv-cropping, early 
kidney is Sir John Llewellyn. First early 
Potatoes may be planted in rows 2 feet apart 
and 12 inches apart in the rows, covering 
them up lightly with soil 5 inches deep. Both 
Up-to-Date and Duchess of Cornwall are 
strong growers, especially from Irish seed, 
and the rows for these should be fully 
30 inches apart, and the sets 15 inches apart 
in the rows. At these distances, in open 
ground that is not too rich, they will do well, 
and tubers be of good table size. Both are 
heavy croppers, ami need to be well earthed 
up. If your district is a fairly warm one, 
and you can protect the tops when up, you 
may plant your first earlies now.] 

Chicory. —Those who had the forethought 
to grow a good quantity of Witloof or 
Brussels Chicory last year are, now that 
Lettuces and Endive are beginning to get 
scarce, reaping the benefit of such a pro¬ 
ceeding. That Chicory, when gently forced, 
is a useful and wholesome addition to the 
salad bowl is well known to many, but that 
it can be used in the place of Lettuces and 
Endive, where these are no longer forth¬ 
coming, is not so fully recognised as it should 
be by those who have a great partiality for 
salads. Given a good reserve of roots upon 
which to draw, so that a certain number may 
be placed in warmth every week, there need 
not be the slightest difficulty in obtaining a 
daily supply through the winter and spring 
months, particularly the latter period, when, 
as mentioned above, other ingredients for 
salad-making run short. A nice gentle 
warmth only is requisite to induce quick 
growth and to secure the compact, Lettuce¬ 
like heart or group of leaves which is pro¬ 
duced by the crowns or tops of the roots. By 
subjecting them to strong heat this heart-like 
growth is lost, the leaves become attenuated 
and lose their crispness, and the flavour be¬ 
comes unpleasant. Light must of necessity 
be rigorously excluded from where the forcing 
is conducted, otherwise the growths will not 
become blanched, and would, moreover, be 
tough and unpalatable. For this purpose a 
warm cellar, vacant spaces under stages iu a 
warm greenhouse, the Mushroom-house, or 
wherever a genial warmth can be obtained, 
may be utilised, and in any of these Chicory 
will force readily. The great thing in Chicory 
cultivation is to grow the roots thoroughly 
well during the summer months previous to 
their being required for forcing, for the fact 
should not be lost sight of that the larger the 
roots the finer will the heart-like growths be 
when the roots are introduced into warmth. 

—-A_\y. 


UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS i 
RBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




Fkbbuar* 29, 1903 


GA RDEN1 jVG ILL U ST Hi TED. 


695 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 

CARPENTERIA CALIFORNICA. 

This is one of the most beautiful of our 
flowering shrube, and is far hardier than is 
generally supposed. It does well on the 
west coast of Scotland, and in the neigh¬ 
bourhood of Oxford has experienced twenty 
degrees of frost without being killed. Its 
pure white flowers have a centre of golden 
stamens, and measure about three inches 
across. They are borne at the ends of the 
shoots, generally in clusters of five. Where 
the weather is too cold for its being planted 
in the open it makes a very good conserva¬ 
tory plant, but should be fully exposed in the 
open air after flowering until the advent of 
the first frosts. The flowers are very much 
like the blossoms of Japanese Anemones, and 
are of about the same size. In the south¬ 
west it is now a common plant in gardens, 
and is probably to be met with in almost 
every garden of note. In that district it is 
never harmed by the winter frosts. The 
chief drawback to the Cnrpenteria is that 
its foliage is often much browned. When 
perfect this is of a beautiful light green, 
which throws the pure white flowers into 
high relief. It is sometimes thought that 
the withered condition of the leaves is due to 
the effect of frost and cold, biting winds, but 
it is doubtful if it is not caused by some 
description of fungus. If frost and bitter 
winds are the originators of the mischief, the 
plants growing in exposed positions would 
naturally be more affected than those situ¬ 
ated in sheltered nooks, whereas the reverse 
is often the case. A few years ago, when 
inspecting the gardens at Saltram with their 
owner I noticed that of three plants of Car- 
penteria that which was in the more exposed 
site had beautifully green foliage, while one 
that was entirely sheltered on all sides had 
badly browned leaves. The Carpentaria has 
attained a large size in Devon and Cornwall, 
and I know a specimen, growing as a bush 
in the open, which is fully eight feet in 
height and as much through, and is a charm¬ 
ing sight when loaded with its white flowers. 

S. W. Fitzherbert. 


THE PEARL BERRY (MARGYRICARPUS 
SETOSUS). 

One of the smaller shrubby rock plants 
which one meets with bub seldom, although 
its beauty is considerable, is the Pearl Berry 
(Margyricarpus setosus), a pretty, dwarf, 
berried plant, suitable for mild districts. 
The last remark is necessary, as in the colder 
parts it is liable to perish in very severe win¬ 
ters ; but, as a rule, it will stand any winter 
experienced in the milder parts of England 
and Ireland, and even on the west coast of 
Scotland it survives any save the most 
severe seasons. Even in the colder parts it 
is quite easy to keep up a stock of this little 
shrub by saving a few of the berries, and 
either sowing them as soon as ripe, or keep 
ing the seeds until spring. As the berries 
are freely produced, there is no difficulty in 
having a few plants thus raised to replace 
any which may be lost, and cuttings strike 
freely enough as well. The Pearl Berry is a 
most attractive little plant of trailing habit, 
and admirably suited for trailing over a 
stone or the stone edging of a 6unny border. 
The sharp-pointed, dark green leaves are 
ornamental, and the small flowers, which in 
themselves are decidedly ineffective, being 
greenish in colour and but small, are fol¬ 
lowed by charming little white berries, wax- 
like in their appearain-e, and not inaptly 
called “Pearl Berries.” The contrast afforded 
by the purity of these white fruits as seen 
against the glossy, dark green leaves, is ex¬ 
cellent, and the whole appearance of the 
Margyricarpus affords a happy combination 
of beauty. As already remarked, the Pearl 
Berry can lie propagated by seeds or cut¬ 
tings. These should be put into light soil 
under glass. This Pearl Berry, which is 
only 6 inches or 9 inches high, likes a fairly 
light soil, and should have a sunny position 
in the garden, with sk^Tlfcr from thelcoldest 
winds. [ VjO S. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Carrya elliptica. —When veiled with cat¬ 
kins, there is no danger of confounding the 
Californian Tassel Bush with any other occu¬ 
pant of our gardens, and a male specimen, 
when at its best, is a delightful winter fea¬ 
ture. This Garrya forms a freely-branched, 
bold-growing shrub, clothed with elliptic- 
shaped leaves, dark green above, and hoary 
underneath. It bears a small cluster of cat¬ 
kins at the tips of the last year’s shoots, 
each catkin being long, slender, and strictly 
pendulous. In colour they arc whitish. 
Given moderately favourable weather, these 
catkins retain their freshness for a consider¬ 
able time. The Garrya, in common with 
some other hardy shrubs, bears its male and 
female flowers on separate plants. From an 
ornamental standpoint, the male is greatly 
superior to the female, for the catkins of the 
latter are solitary and very much shorter 
than the male ones, which in vigorous 
examples are sometimes a foot in length. 
Like some other Californian shrube, it is not 
particularly hardy in some parts of this 


white, and towards the close of January in 
Devon and Cornwall many of its blossoms 
are fully expanded. Large specimens pre¬ 
sent a charming 6ight when in full blossom, 
appearing from a little distance like tall 
pyramids of white faintly tinged with 
lavender, six feet or more in height. The 
natural growth of this Heath is erect, but if 
the flower-sprays are all cut as soon as the 
blossoms are expanded it assumes a dwarfer 
and more spreading habit. The upright 
shoots, covered with a profusion of droop¬ 
ing white elongated bells, have the appear¬ 
ance of feathery white plumes when cut. Tho 
individual flow-el's have a suspicion of 
lavender-pink when closely examined, but 
I this is scarcely noticeable when they arc 
seen crowded on the 6prays of the grow-ing 
plants, the inflorescence then appearing 
I white. In the 60 uth-west this Heath grows 
luxuriantly and increases itself from self- 
sown 6eed extensively in some gardens, these 
seedlings often reaching a height of eight feet 
! or over. In the colder districts it cannot be 



Carpenteria californica in a Herefordshire garden. From a photograph by Miss Southall, Rosa. 


country, but is seen at its very best in the 
more favoured districts, especially where it 
is not very far removed from the sea. Its 
question of hardiness is, how r ever, at times 
somewhat puzzling, for occasionally it is met 
with in good condition where one w r ould not 
expect it to thrive. Where sufficiently hardy 
it is admirable as an open bush, and in less 
favoured districts it may be trained to a 
wall, the flattened sufaco ensured by this 
mode of treatment being at its best heavily 
draped with the striking catkins. I have 
aLso seen it clothing a large w-ire arch, and 
thought it exceedingly beautiful. The male 
Garrya was introduced by David Douglas, 
the collector, in 18-8, but it w r as about 
twenty years after this that the female one 
was sent to this country. With regard to 
soil, a good, deep, well-drained loam is very 
suitable to the Garrya.—X. 

Erica lusitanica.— This Heath, which is 
better known under the name of E. codon- 
odes. is one of the most beautiful of the tree 
Heaths. It is especially valuable because its 
flowering season is in the winter, for now, in 
mid-February, it is in full bloom. About 
Christmastide its earliest buds begin to show 


, considered absolutely hardy, since it is a 
native of Spain and Portugal, but south of 
London it is rarely injured by frost. Its 
foliage is of an extremely rich green, and its 
flow’ering season is a very prolonged one, 
lasting from Christmas, when the first blooms 
open, until April, when the last fades. A 
bush, from which the flower-6prays are cut 
every winter as soon as they are ready for 
the house, has entirely lost the pyramidal 
habit that is the nature of the plant, and has 
developed into a broad shrub six feet across 
and five feet in height.—S. W. Fitzhek- 

BERT. 

Daphne Daupliine (>yn. I). hybrids).—ThiB I saw 
| to-day (February 12th). in a Blaekrock garden, 3 feet 
; high and 0 feet through beautifully in flower. It is 
j just as sweet as D. indica, and. apparently, hardy 
i everywhere. We are having delightful spring-liko 
weather. About Dublin, Prunus Maximowiezi, P. 
Duvidiana, and Kibes sanguiueum are in full bloom, 
while Daphne Mczereon is not in flower, yet it is in 
full bloom here.—T. Smith, Ncwry. 


“The English Flower Garden and Home 
Grounds.*’—AVio Edition, revised, with descriptions 
of all the best plants, trees , and shrubs, their culture 
and htraiupment, illustrated on wood* Cloth, medium, 
8vo., lbs .T post/reej j,1#. (id. — 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 







GOG 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED ,, 


February 29, 1908 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 


ROSES. 


MOSS ROSES. 


It is safe to say Moss Roses will never be 
crowded out of our gardens. What beauty 
there is in a bud of the common old Moss 
when bathed in dew on a bright June morn¬ 
ing, and one, perhaps, enjoys its beauty all 
the more seeing there is a mystery as to how 
the Moss Rose originated. It is said that 
the first Moss Rose came from Holland in 
1596, and it is generally supposed to have 
been a sport from the Provence or Cabbage 
Rose. I can hardly credit this, bocause my 
experience of 6ports is that the variety which 
sports partakes of most of the peculiarities 
of its parent in everything save colour or 
form. In this case the common Moss Rose, 
sweet though it is, does not inherit the de¬ 
licious fragrance of the old Cabbage Rose, 
which is, undoubtedly, of great antiquity. 
A most interesting account of the history of 
this old Rose -is given by the Rev. G. E. 
Jeans in the “Rusarians’ Year Book” for 
1896, and all who are interested in old Roses 
would do well to look it up. 

I have observed peculiar sportiveness in 
some of the Moss Roses. For instance, the 
Perpetual White Moss will suddenly produce 
pink blossoms devoid of the mossy covering. 
Seeds from Moss Roses will produce varieties 
with massy characteristics, and we are in¬ 
debted to M. LafTay and others for the 
numerous hybrid varieties which are still to 
be found in some nurseries. I do not say the 
Moss Rose will ever attain to the popularity 
it enjoyed thirty or forty years ago. We 
have it on the authority of Dean Hole that 
lie gave M. Laffay half a guinea for a plant 
of Lanei when it was introduced, and he says 
in his book that he was well repaid with 
Home beautiful blossoms of a brilliaut rose 
colour, of symmetrical shape, and fine foil 
age, free from blight and mildew, “those 
cruel foes of the Rose in general and the 
Moss Rose in particular.” I do not know if 
there are any good collections of Moss Roses 
in Great Britain. Possibly there may be ; if 
so, it would be interesting to hear of them. 
It would be well worth the attention of ama¬ 


teurs who can afford space to make a col¬ 
lection of Moss Roses. If they do not find 
a yellow variety they will, nevertheless, dis¬ 
cover some of nearly every other tint, from 
the almost black of Nuits d’Young to the 
snowy whiteness of White Bath. 

Moss 'Roses are early flowering, for they 
commence to unfold their delightful buds 
about the middle of June, and have then such 
lovely companions as the Damasks, repre¬ 
sented by Mme. Hardy, La Villede Bruxelles ; 
the albas by the ever-charming Celestial Feli- 
cite (Parmentier); the Hybrid Chinese, Buch 
as Blairi No. 2, Paul Ricaut, and Hybrid 
Rugosas such as Conrad F. Meyer, Mercedes, 
Mrs. Anthony Waterer, etc. To group with 
Mass Roses to be grown as pillars or on 
arches one could employ the Wichurniana 
Roses, Gardenia, Jersey Beauty, Alberie 
Barbier, and the multifloras, represented by 
Aglaia, Euphrosyne, Thalia, Electra, Tea 
Rambler, and also most of the Monthly 
Roses, from the common Blush to the de¬ 
lightful Comtesse de Cayla and Baronne 
Piston de St. Cyr. So that it would not be 
at all difficult to arrange a small Rose gar¬ 
den in which Mess Roses would predominate. 
The so-called Perpetual Moss Rose I never 
could take to; indeed, 1 think it is a mis¬ 
nomer 1o call any of them perpetual. 

If we would see Moss Roses in their 
greatest beauty they should be grown as 
standards or half-standards ; yet I suppose if 
one attempted to procure such he would fail. 
Given good healthy Briers, well planted— 
not too deeply—Moss Roses develop splendid 
heads if they are pruned carefully, and in 
order to obtain them one should make 
arrangements to hud one’s own. Dean Hole 
says Moss Roses do not last long as standards, 
and he advises the seedling Brier for them. 
1 think it is more a question of a healthy 
start. Given a really good, young, well- 
rooted Brier, there Is no reason jvliv Moss 


ll< 


ses should not li/t us. 

Digitized by 



Roses 


on standards. Some varieties succeed well 
as pillars ; in fact, this is the best way to 
grow such as Baron de Wassanaer, Comtesse 
do Murinais, Crimson Globe, etc. They are 
exceedingly interesting as low bushes in front 
of shrubs, only they must not be crowded. 
Let anyone try a few plants like this, and 
layer the branches all around, allowing the 
layered shoots to remain. In a few years one 
will have a glorious mass of growth, which 
will flower freely from the bending incidental 
on layering the branches. Moss Roses are 
beautiful when grown in pots. Many of us 
can remember the fine group put up some 
years ago at the Temple Show, showing what 
could be accomplished with such a modest 
flower by skilful culture. With the excep¬ 
tion of a few varieties, Moss Roses are readily 
increased from layers, and, unquestionably, 
this is by far the best method to adopt in 
their propagation, although at first the plants 
are very small. Moss Itoscs prefer a good 
rich soil, but must be very carefully pruned. 
This operation is best carried out "after the 
plants have flowered. Remove then any old, 
decrepit wood, and then in the following 
March the shoots will merely require to l>e 
tipped. There has not been much novelty 
introduced into the Moss Roses these last few 
years, one of the most recent being 

Venus, a well-mossed red variety that 
opens well, and has a fine upright habit of 
growth. It is of German origin. A very 
beautiful climbing form came to us from 
America a few years ago under the name of 

Cumberland" Belle.— It is a beautiful 
sort, very fragrant, with bright silvery-rose- 
coloured flowers. One of the most beautiful 
is the 

Old Common Mohh. Its pale rose 
coloured buds, prettily mossed, are well 
knowu. If anything, the variety 

Gracilih is superior to the last, inns 
much as it is freer. It is a splendid sort for 
massing, and should be. freely planted. 
Another fine sort is 

Blanche Moreau, with paper-white buds 
enveloped in a very dark green Moss. 

White Bath is one of the old sorts, and 
much valued on Hecount of its very pure 
white blossoms, but it does not possess the 
vigour of the last named. A beautiful sort, is 

G'omtehse de Murinaih. a very strong 
grower, with pale flesh-coloured blossoms, 
oj>eiiing to nearly white. 

The Crested* Mohs should be grown by 
everyone. The flower-buds are beautifully 
crested, having the appearance somewhat of 
a fringing of Parsley leaves. This variety 
was first discovered growing upon the walls 
of a convent near Berne/ according to Mr. 
Wm, Paul, in his “Rose Garden.” 

Little Gem has very small flowers of a 
rosy-crimson colour, and beautifully mossed. 
The growth is almost climbing. 

Crimson Globe, although not particularly 
well mossed, is, nevertheless, a fine Rose, for 
its flowers are as large as those of a Hybrid 
Perpetual. It makes a good standard. For 
fragrance 

Zenobia would compare favourably with ' 
most of the well-known fragrant Roses. The 
colour is satin-pink. One could hardly be¬ 
lieve it was a Moss Rose unless it was dis¬ 
covered by the aromatic foliage. 

Although there are numbers of sorts, I 
think if anyone possesses most of the varie¬ 
ties I have named he will have a fairly repre¬ 
sentative collection. Rosa. 


GRAFTING ROSES. 

This is a very simple method of propagating 
choice varieties where the wood is not avail¬ 
able in sufficient quantity to strike from 
cuttings. I believe it is passible to obtain 
an own-root plant equally as largo as a 
rafted one in a given time; but it can only 
o done with good, healthy growths, brought 
into condition by early forcing. Where the 
Rosa canina is used as a stock, the grafted 
plants succeed admirably, although in some 
casefi certain Roses, suen as Catherine Mer- 
met, Niplietob, and others make finer plants 
upon the Manetti stock. They are, how¬ 
ever, far less durable. 

If seedling Briers are used as stocks, it is 
not necessary they should be established in 
their pots. I often pot them up and gruft 


in two or three weeks after. The Briers, 
when potted, are placed in a greenhouse, 
where they soon start into growth, and are 
then ready for grafting. I have grafted the 
Brier roots even before potting up. If 6uch 
were laid in some fibre in the propagating 
frame, it would be found that the graft and 
stock would unite, but there is less danger to 
the future w’ell-being of the plants if potted 
up before grafting. The Briers are usually 
potted up into small 60’s. In grafting, care 
should be taken that the cut on the scion 
and on the stock in of the same angle, ami 
they should fit perfectly. Bind them up with 
a piece of thin raffia, then place in the propa 
gating frame. This should be kept at a 
bottom temperature of about 80 degs. Drip 
is a fatal enemy to contend with. If a drop 
of water happens to strike the graft, it is 
almost sure to fail. Very little watering will 
be required after the "stocks are grafted 
until they come out of the case in about three 
weeks, but wdiat is given must not touch the 
grafted plant. The lights should be raised 
for about an hour each day after the first 
week, increasing the ventilation until about 
the fourteenth day, when the lights may be 
left up, and about the third week the grafted 
plants may be stood out on benches for a 
time. See that the plants have a moist baf>e 
to stand on. It is better to bring the young 
plants along as sturdily as possible, then they 
can withstand had weather. At the close of a 
fine day the pipes should be sprinkled with 
water, which induces a dew' to rest upon the 
young plants. 

When they have been out of the propagat- 
ing-eosc about three weeks, they should be 
removed to another house, where the tem¬ 
perature ran be maintained at about 60 degc. 
by day. Hero they should be potted on into 
5-inch pots, using a compost of two parts 
loam, one part old manure from a dung bed. 
and a liberal sprinkling of sand. By careful 
.shifting on when the plants require it. and 
also by pinching off all flower buds, grand 
plants, established in 8'incli and 9 inch pots, 
can be had by the autumn. Such plants 
make excellent specimens for forcing another 
winter. Rambler and other climbing Ro. . » 
may be propagated in this manner, and it is 
possible to havo splendid canes, 8 ferl »c 
12 feet long, the name season. Rosa. 

MUNICIPAL ROSE GARDENS. 

1 observe in a contemporary that the au¬ 
thorities at Westoliffe-on-Sea contemplate 
laying out a portion of the beautiful grounds 
of Chalkwell Park as a Rose garden. 1 am 
pleased to note this, because 1 have long 
held the opinion that this was a good thing 
to do in any district where Roses arc known 
to grow well. All who know this pretty place 
are aware of the excellent Rose soil which 
Essex provides, and one may see even stan¬ 
dard Roses flourishing along the front parade 
as luxuriantly as they do in many inland 
gardens. Such Rose gardens to be useful 
should be representative of all the groups, 
and the best only of each group, the main 
object being to show which varieties thrive 
best in a given neighbourhood. Amateurs 
frequently are obliged to buy their successes 
very dearly. They will, perhaps, go to a 
Rose show and see some fancy bloom—maybe 
that of a Comtesse de Nadaillac, or a Horace 
Vernet—and order some of the same regard¬ 
less of whether such sorts will grow well or 
not; but if, on the other hand, an inspection 
were made of such sorts as flourish in the 
local Rose gardens they would find ruany 
beautiful Roses there that would please them 
equally as well as these darlings of the 
exhibitor. 

Now that the present-day Roses are so 
superior to those of twenty or thirty years 
ago. and the galaxy of Ramblers and other 
glorious garden varieties so numerous, the 
possibilities are immense. I wonder how 
many individuals have planted bold masses 
of one sort after seeing the lovely groups at 
Kew Gardens? And I know for certain 
some Roses have been seen in these gardens 
for the first time even by some who make 
Rose-growing a great hobby. Instead of so 
much repetition of the usual bedding stuff, 
we should get away from this style and start 
I something of_n really utilitarian nature in 
uui public gardens. JNOIS 


February 2D, 1008 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


697 


OUTDOOR PLANT8. 

GROUP OF YUCCA GUORIOSA. 

This plant, which does so finely in many dis¬ 
trict-!) of the country, is not so often massed 
in any distinct and effective way, such as we 
show here in an engraving from a photograph 
taken at Abbotsbury, in Dorsetshire. The 
great Aralia near makes it all the more effec¬ 
tive. We have lately shown the effect of the 
more freely flowering plants of this kind, es¬ 
pecially the smaller kinds. This well shows 
the fine effect of the plants for their foliage 
only. We do not know their northern limit 
in our country, but it is probably a wide one, 
aud in the home and southern counties they 
are easily grown, and are not particular as to 
soil, growing often in the most hopeleu*, 
stonv, or gravelly ground. This plant is cer¬ 
tainly most effective when held together as a 
group, and sometimes an old plant will break 
into side-heads, and of itself form a pic¬ 
turesque group. 


PENTSTEMONS IN THE GARDEN. 
Thkre has been a steady but marked progress 
in the quality of these familiar summer 


a second display of bloom. Seeds should be ; 
sown at once if an early autumn display is 
required. Ordinary attention, such aa ii , 
given to Stocks and Asters, is all that is neces¬ 
sary. The seeds being Bmall, a slight cover¬ 
ing of soil is all-important, as deep covering 
may end in failure. If a fine-rosed pot is 
not to hand, it would be better to gently 
plunge the receptacle Ln a pail or tank, allow 
ing the water to rise gradually to the surface 
Pots, pans, or shallow boxes will answer for 
sowing the seeds in. W. S. 


VERBENAS FROM SEED. 

If carefully grown in separate colours, Ver¬ 
benas come fairly true from seeds; and if 
there Bhould be a stray plaut of the wrong 
colour among a batch of seedlings, it may 
generally be detected before the plants are 
turned out, if they have been raised early. 
I like to sow about the middle of February, 
and then there is no necessity to push the 
seedlings on in heat, which has a debilitating 
effect upon the plants. The seedB are sown 
in a box in the hot-bed or propagating-pit, 
and the plants, as soon as pricked off and 
established, are moved to n cool-house, where 


progresses. Seedling Verbenas are not par¬ 
ticular about soil, provided the beds have 
been well cultivated and dressed with leaf- 
mould or old manure of some kind. There 
will be no frost to hurt Verbenas after the 
middle of May. and the sooner they are in 
the beds or borders after that date the better. 
Verbenas are strong-rooting plants, and if 
grown in small pots, they are almost sure, 
some time or other, to suffer from want of 
water, and a check of this kind is sure to 
weaken their growth. II. C. 


CHRISTMAS ROSES. 

Recent articles on the Christmas Rose have 
interested me. It is certainly a most valu¬ 
able flower from December to well nigh the 
end of January. Further, it requires but 
little protection, even during the most 
severe frost. Ordinary handlights are all I 
cover my plants with, and we registered 
16 degs., 18 degs., and 19 degs. of frost on 
several occasions, yet none of the flowers got 
spoilt. That the London market is not 

G lutted with these flowers I can vouch for. 
laving a quantity likely to spoil, the blooms 
I were carefully gathered and as carefully 



A group of Yucca glorlosa in the gardens at Abbotabury, Dorset. From a photograph by Q. A. Champion. 


plants. From seeds of a good strain one may 
secure an extremely choice and bright display 
in the course of a few months. Few plants 
are more easily raised, or give less trouble in 
their final treatment, and few plants raised 
from seed provide a greater display of lasting 
and varied colours at so little ccflt. In 
former days the Pentstemon w as regarded as 
a florist flower, and was raised mainly from 
cuttings of the autumn shoots. The case is 
<hffereut now, for, given glass accommodation 
for raising, and growing on the seedling 
plants a stock is easily obtained. Should 
any special flower attract attention, it may be 
increased from cuttings, inserted in pots or 
boxes, aud sheltered in a cool frame. From 
a good strain it is possible to obtain 
almost incredible number of plants, varying 
in the colour tints, and producing a succes¬ 
sion of bloom. It must not be expected, how¬ 
ever, that the giant types which are found 
under distinctive names are to be had from 
seeds, and, satisfied os anyone may be with a 
fine summer display from seedlings, he must 
not expect such fine flowers as may be seen 
an up-to-date collection of named sorts. 


Should the winter not 
one’s btock of seedli 


lot^pme severe, much of 

"800""'’ §r0 ive 


they will make sturdy growth. All the 
plants will show a truss or two of bloom by 
the middle of May, and, whether grown in 
separate colours or as mixtures, there is no 
difficulty in making a suitable arrangement. 
Tho advantage seedlings poesesB over plants 
raised from cuttings lies chiefly in the extra 
vigour they possess. This vigour saves 
them from attacks of mildew or thrips, which 
years ago, when Verbenas were always raised 
from cuttings, often checked their growth 
after the first bloom had marred their effec¬ 
tiveness. This was the cause of Verbenas 
falling out of favour, and probably over- 
propagation in heat in spring, by weakening 
the constitution of the plants, had a good 
deal to do with many failures. With seed¬ 
lings there is no trouble in Having stock in 
autumu, and we start with clean, healthv 
plants in spring, and this results in well- 
filled beds with plenty of blossoms. Seed¬ 
ling plants tdiould be allowed more space in 
the beds than is usually given to plants 
raised from cuttings. Unless the bens are 
required to be filled quickly and produce an 
early display, a square foot for each plant is 
flea reel y enough, especially if due attention 
in given in pegging down the growth as it 


packed and sent to Covent Garden Market 
on January 17th (thirty-nine dozen in all), 
aud these fetched the satisfactory price of 
8 Jd. per dozen. A second consignment at 
the end of the month brought the same re¬ 
turns—not a bad investment for the florist. 
I am aware Christmas Rosea will not do on 
all Aoils, and I have known canes where for 
years they grew and flowered abundantly ; 
then all of n sudden something got hold of 
them, growth was stubborn, flowers few and 
far between, the plants losing what bit of 
foliage they had— in fact, they were a failure. 
My plants (eighteen in all) are on nn cant 
border, well sheltered with buildings, the sun 
going from them about 2 p.m. in the height 
of summer. Early in April I fork up the soil 
lightly, clearing away all loose materials, re 
turning a little fresh soil, and then a mulch of 
stahle-mnnure, this sufficing until the middle 
of November, when I clear away exhausted 
manure, leaves, etc., give a dusting of lute' 
and place an inch or so of clean river sand 
over the crowns. Under this treatment the 
flowers keep clean and push up with great 
freedom. Slug*-* re rather partial to_tho 
flovUri) '*ful one winter thi_ mice well nigh 


URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 





























698 


GARDENING ILLUSTR/1TED. 


February 29, 1908 


ruined the whole lot of buds by nipping them 
off just os they pushed through. Needless 
to say, these pests were soon routed. I have 
four large clumps immediately under a large 
spreading Oak, where very little sun readies 
them until 5 p.m., and they flower profusely, 
the fallen leaves from the Oak acting as a 
protection to the blooms as they push up. 
The former lot of plants has been in position 
for the past twelve years, which shows that 
the plants resent being much interfered with. 

J. Mayne. 

THE SNOWY CROWFOOT (RANUNCU 
LUS AMPLEXICAULIS). 

One of the most valuable and beautiful bor¬ 
der or rock plants in cultivation is the 
Snowy or stem-clasping Crowfoot (Ranun¬ 
culus ainplcxicaulis), a plant of the first rank 
for ease of culture and beauty. Not by any 
means new, it yet holds its own well among 
the many hardy flowers which are now- 
struggling for a place in the gardens of the 
present day. This position is due to its real 
beauty and worth, accompanied by its accom¬ 
modating nature in our climate. It is, in 
truth, a plant of much beauty, with its 
greyish or glaucous-coloured leaves clasping 
the stems, which again rise from 3 inches 
to 12 inches high, and give us several of the 
beautiful flowers which combine beauty of 
shape with pretty colour. The flowers of 
good form, are pure white, the purity of this 
entitling the plant to one of its popular 
names, that of the Snowy Crowfoot, a wel¬ 
come touch of warmth, however, being 
afforded by the pleasing yellow centres of 
the blossoms. The whole plant is indeed in 
perfect harmony, and affords a study in plant 
beauty which commends the flower to all. 

Accompanying this graceful nature is its 
appeal to those who have little time to spare 
for their gardens by its simplicity of culture, 
as Ranunculus ainplcxicaulis can be grown 
in almost any border or in almost any rock 
garden. It should not be in too dry a posi¬ 
tion. In ordinary garden soil, either in¬ 
clined to lightness or heaviness, it will give 
satisfaction. Its bundled roots can be divi¬ 
ded for increase when the plant becomes 
large enough, and when seeds eau be obtained 
they may be sown as soon as ripe or when 
procurable from the seedsman, in a reserve 
plot of fine soil or in pots under glass. A 
native of the Al]>s of Europe and the 
Pyrenees, it is hardy everywhere in the 
United Kingdom. * S. A KNOTT. 


IRISES: FLOWERS FOR EVERY 
GARDEN. 

No matter where the garden is situated, it 
is a well-known fact that Irises are so accom¬ 
modating that some, at any rate, will grow 
iu the closed-in hack garden of the town, 
and add a beauty that at certain seasons of 
the year is quite refreshing. You may live 
in a large town, where gardening is not 
always indulged in with the best results, but 
I venture to sav that German Irises, if 
planted iu anything like a decent soil, and 
given an occasional dressing of manure, will 
bloom where other things would fail. 1 know 
this to be true of the German Irises, for I 
pass daily a thoroughfare in a town where, 
in a little front garden, I see a man tending 
them, and every June there are the bright 
purple blossoms. But if they will adapt 
themselves to the air of a town, and the 
often poor soil, how much more beautiful 
may one have them in a country garden 
where the air is pure, and the soil is wliat it 
should be? Only those who have had ex¬ 
perience of them can possibly form an opinion 
as to their merits. Give them a place in a 
garden where the soil is deep and rich, where 
they will get shade for a part of the day, and 
vou will have such a hurst or colour in June 
and July, rivalling many other blossoms then 
out. Nor is it to the German sorts alone 
that we arc indebted for flowers in the gar 
den. for one thinks of the equally gorgeous 
blooms of the Spanish sorts. Well is it that 
they have been called the “Poor Man’s 
Orchids,” for they yield many charming 
blossoms that are specially useful wherever 
cut flowers arc appreciated, and Mliose who 
c an ^row the GcAnan HlWses, the 


Spanish. Only last summer I came across 
an ardent amateur, w'ho had only a few yards 
of garden, but Irises w'ere among his favourite 
flow'ers, and the Spanish sorts, because he 
had little room, had been planted in butter- 
tubs, and these stood on area steps, and were 
a mass of bloom when I paid my visit. 
Long before these varieties are iu bleom we 
have on the warm borders in our gardens 
the sweetly scented flowers of I. stylosa, with 
soft blue blossoms, as well as the Netted 
Iris reticulata, which enjoys the shelter of a 
wall, and gives us of its fragrant blooms iu 
January and February. Of sorts that bloom 
in July we cannot omit the English (Iris 
xiphioides) ; they are just as easy to grow 
as the Spanish, give us many beautiful 
flowers on stout stems, and bloom a little 
later than the Spanish, making a nice suc¬ 
cession in a garden. Very singular, hut also 
pretty, are the flowers of the Mourning Iris 
(L Susiana), which loves the sunny border, 
and is easily distinguished by the spotted and 
striped petals on a greyish background. And 
there are other varieties of Irises; some 
noted for their dwarfness, like I. pumila, 
others again tall and stately with handsome 
flow'ers, like ochroleuca, which, if planted in 
a border where the soil is fairly good, never 
fail to bloom with a freedom that in June 
and July will call forth admiration from all 
who love flowers. No one need be afraid to 
plant them in a damp spot in a garden, for, 
if it is shady, the flowers will only be a little 
later in coming. They are flowers indeed 
that should be welcome in every garden, for 
they take little attention when once plant¬ 
ing has been done, except to divide the bulbs 
and clumps occasionally; and as regards 
their beauty for cutting for the home there 
cannot be two opinions. What is more, they 
are inexpensive, and the first cost is the last, 
for they increase rapidly. 

WOODBASTWICK. 


IIARDY ANNUALS. 


It is sometimes thought that with the aid of 
a greenhouse or frame we may grow every¬ 
thing that may he required for the garden, 
and have a good show; hut when we think 
so, we leave out of our calculation hardy 
annuals, which need no protection whatever, 
and include, after all, some beautiful flowers 
that it would be a pity to exclude from a 
garden. As a matter of fact, there are many 
people who, notwithstanding the days of 
cheap glass structures, are content to grow 
hardy annuals, and to rely on them for a 
summer display; hut there are others to 
w'lioni they do not appeal so strongly, such as 
those who have been accustomed for years to 
plant out Pelargoniums, and who would 
never dream of dispensing for a single season 
with their favourite West Brighton Gem or 
Henry Jacoby. Surely this is a mistake, for 
there are many who have neither greenhouses 
nor frames, who nevertheless, from 6eeds 
sown in the garden in the spring, manage to 
have a bright array of flowers for a few 
months in the year. 

Those desirous of having borders of 
hardy annuals will find amongst some of 
them those that are useful for cutting, 
and if wc include some of the half-hardy 
annuals, which may be sown in the open 
ground, and, to all intents and purposes are 
nardy, then one may count on a brilliant dis¬ 
play. Last year I saw a border that could 
not have cost very much for seeds, made up 
as follows: In the hack row r were Sweet 
Peas, planted in groups according to colours; 
then came Sw eet Sultans, Nemophila, summer- 
flow'ering Chrysanthemums, Linums, E6ch- 
seholtzias. Clarkias, Candytuft, in patches; 
Mignonette, Nigellas, and "groups of Shirley 
Poppies—indeed, nearly all the annuals were 
to be -seen in patches, and did not present 
that monotonous appearance as when sown 
in long lines. Ten-week Stocks and Aaters, 
which were sown outside iu April were 
similarly treated on a sheltered corner of 
the border. The whole presented a beau¬ 
tiful display in August, and, though some, 
possibly, might have considered the garden 
incomplete, because of the absence of an 
edging of Lobelia, the Virginia Stock that 
did duty in its place was quite as showy, and 
was raised at a tenth of the trouble ana cost. 

I think that many are apt to overlook the 


claims of hardy annuals, simply because we 
have been used to planting Pelargoniums 
and Calceolarias, etc., year after year, but 
for cutting these cannot be compared with 
hardy annuals, which may be sown in the 
open borders in April, where they are wanted 
to bloom, and if the ground is well prepared 
and the seed sown thinly, then one may have 
excellent results. Anyone devoid of glass 
accommodation, and who, perhaps, cannot 
afford to spend very much on a garden, can, 
during the coming summer, have a beautiful 
show of flowers; indeed, a dozen or so of 
packets will provide sufficient seed and give 
u large variety of blossoms. It i« sometimes 
necessary to emphasise the directions given 
on the seed packet, to “sow thinly.” "Where 
thin is neglected, the results are not nearly 
so good. One sees thin in 6uch things as 
Mignonette. Sown thinly, so that each plant 
can have the needful room, the plants will 
be sturdy, and the quality of the blossoms 
better. Woodbastwick. 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Spring flowers under trees —I have a Surrey 
garden, which is much shaded in parts by largo 
forest-trees, formi.ig au excellent possibility for car¬ 
pets of spring flowers. Can you tell me how it 13 
best to cultivate Wood Anemones and blue Apennine 
Aneraoues, Primroses, white, blue, and pink Hya¬ 
cinths. Winter Aconite, and other varieties of wood¬ 
land flowers? Should these be grown from seeds, or, 
if from plants, how are they procurable, nnd could 
yen name any other plants that would do well at 
different times of year in the same condition? The 
soil is light, leafy, and well drained.—I oxa. 

[In places shaded by trees, especially on 
Surrey soils, you should be able to do the 
Wood Anemones easily, and especially the 
bluo Anemones, A. Robinsoniana ana A. 
blanda. Our native Wood Hyacinth and the 
Spanish should be very happy there, but not 
the garden Hyacinths. Most of the things 
should be those that can be easily bought, tvs 
bulbs; no seed should be used in the condi¬ 
tions described. You must depend chiefly on 
spring flowexs, as ill Surrey sands everything 
gets so dry in the autumn. Do not forget 
Solomon’s Seal and Lily of the Valley, and 
some of the smaller Seillas might take, such 
as bifolia, also the charming Grape Hya¬ 
cinths.—E d.] 

The white Round-headed Mallow (Sidalcea 
Candida).—Plants of a hardy character with 
white flowers are usually welcome, and 
among those which are low in price, easily 
cultivated, and of a pleasing appearance, 
but not loo frequently seen, is Sidalcea Can¬ 
dida, which I have known for a number of 
years, and which generally pleases those who 
see it in the border. It makes pretty spikes 
of white flowers, with all the distinguishing 
characteristics of the Mallow family, to 
which it. belongs. The leaves are neat anil 
rather light in their formation, and the 
whole look of this white Iiound-headed Mal¬ 
low is attractive. The stature, a foot and a 
half or so, is reasonable for those who have 
small gardens, and its hardiness is, I be¬ 
lieve, beyond doubt. I have found it easily 
raised from seeds, and as a threepenny 
packet, will produce a goodly number of 
plants, no one need be long without it. I 
prefer sowing the seeds in pots or boxes, 
pricking out the seedlings into other boxes if 
sown under glass early, hut putting them in 
the open if the sowing is left until April or 
May. The seeds soon germinate in a frame 
or greenhouse, and seedlings of this year will 
flower next summer. Those who have not 
conveniences for raising seedlings can buy a 
plant for a few pence.—S. Arnott. 

Double Rockets —Rockets arc old - fashioned, 
fragrant-smelling flowers, beloved of people who havo 
a fondness for old-time things. Talking to a man in 
the trade some time ago about them, he said he had 
a few, but they were scarcely ever asked for. That, 
possibly, may be due to the fact of their heing little 
known, as. if they were, we should undoubtedly see 
more of them. Another reason may bo why they 
ure not generally known is that, unlike some hardy 
plants Double Rockets must he divided and planted 
afresh every year, but better still is the plan of 
propagating from cuttings every year. Cuttings may 
be taken from plants as soon ns they have done 
blooming, and if inserted in a bed of sandy soil and 
kept close for a few days they arc not long in taking 
root. Some are content with dividing old plants, but 
this system cannot be regardml as altogether satis¬ 
factory, for. though they appear healthy for a time, 
they sometimes suddenly die off. That Rockets are 
charming old-time flowers, possessing delicate frag¬ 
rance, is admitted by those who inannge-to keep up 

■ "MaM-champaign 



FEBRiuni 20, 1008 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


609 


THE GREAT-LEAVED ROCKFOIL 
(SAXIFRAGA PELTATA). 

This plaut, which is sometimes culled in its 
own country the Umbrella Saxifrage, is ex¬ 
cellent for the sides of streamlets, ponds, 


but not otherwise. A good way to deal with 
choice seeds is to prepare pots of fine, sandy 
soil, make the surface perfectly level and 
firm, and cover with a thin layer of sand, and 
on this 6ow the seeds. For all the smallest- 
sized seeds a shilling thick covering of very 



The Great-leaved Hock foil in Daisy Hill Nursery at Ncwry. 


and for marshy places. The example we 
give is growing in the Daisy Hill Nursery, 
at Newry, where so many interesting plants 
may be found. It associates very well with 
medium-sized waterside plants, such as the 
Arrowheads, single and double, and, l>cing 
of a vigorous nature, is not easily hurt by 
the many Rushes and Grasses that grow near 
water. 


fine soil and sand in equal parts will be suffi¬ 
cient, and from a quarter to half an inch for 
others of varying sizes. The seed-pots should 
in all cases be thoroughly soaked before sow¬ 
ing the seeds. The subsequent watering can 
only be gauged by circumstances, but for 
those thinly covered a very light and fine 
spray should be U6ed. In the main, seeds that 
take a long time to vegetate should be placed 
in warm and dark places. Failing these, 


TRIMULA JAPONICA. 

This noble Japanese Primrose is one of 
the giants of its family. In the type the 
flowers are of a rosy-crimson, and are carried 
in whorls rising one above the other. There 
are also pure white forms and white with a 
crimson eye. An absolutely indispensable 
condition for the successful cultivation of 
this Primula is abundance of moisture. In 
damp, boggy sites its flower-stems reach a 
great height, and in a moist wood bordering 
a lake in Cornwall I have cut a flower-stem 
four feet in length. Partial shade is also 
much appreciated by the plants. Probably 
the finest display of these handsome Primula® 
that can be seen in the British Islands in 
that provided in the early summer at Enye, 
in Cornwall. Here for about 150 yards along 
the margin of the lake, between the water 
and the path, stretches a wide band of the 
deep rose-coloured form of this Primula, be¬ 
neath the branches of overhanging Limes. 
When in bloom the thousands of flow'er-heads 
present a most charming picture, forming a 
broad line of rich colour which is reflected in 
the dark water beneath. These Primulas 
seed with the greatest prodigality, countless 
seedlings springing up in the gravel path. 
Of these hundreds are given away to other 
gardens. The flower-whorls opening in suc¬ 
cession the season of bloom is a protracted 
one, lasting from May till the late summer. 
The plants do not at all object to being sub¬ 
merged, and may often be 6een growing at 
the bottom of a shallow stream, with the 
crown w r ell beneath the water level and the 
great leaves rising above the surface. Resi¬ 
dents in London may, by taking a 
journey to the Royal Horticultural 
Society’s garden at Wisley, where the 
former owner, Mr. Wilson, natural¬ 
ised them in quantity in the moist ground 
by the waterside, see these noble Primulas 
in perfection. Primula imperiulis, a glorious 
species allied to P. japonica, is found at a 
height of 9,000 feet on the mountains of 
Java. The flowers, which are of a rich 
orange-yellow, are borne in whorls, and the 
stems attain a height of three feet. The 


HEEDS AND SEED SOWING. 

Last spring and summer 1 had a very large number 
of failures amongst the seeds 1 sowed, many of them 
dwarf perenniuls, and should be much obliged if you 
would suggest the probable reason or reasons. Some, 
I suppose, arc not easy to raise, but 1 do not think 
that nearly so many should have failed to come up at 
all. My hardy annuals did very well. Would it be 
worth while for me to try again this spring with some 
of the same kinds? They were all sown in carefully 
prepared soil with some sand added to it, und covered 
lightly or not at all, according to the size. How 
often should one water the pots or pans?—0. (1. 

[There is no accounting for failures among 
seeds without the fullest knowledge of the 
treatment accorded them throughout. The 
best eeeds may refuse to germinate by being 
too deeply buried in the soil, may be washed 
away or irretrievably ruined by rains or ex¬ 
cessive watering, and may be thrown away 
far too early because of the impatience and 
ignorance of the raiser. The Iris, Gentian, 
and Sisyrinchium of those seeds sown in pots 
out-of-doors, if “summer” sown, have had 
but little chance, and, assuming the, seed- 
pota to be still preserved, may vegetate in 
the coming weeks. The Iris, for example, 
even when perfectly good, lias been known to 
take from one to fifteen years before the en¬ 
tire lot of seedlings lias appeared. The 
Alyssum of the same lot, if good and rightly 
treated, should have appeared in three weeks. 
Dodecatheon, Erythromum, Helleborus, Tril¬ 
lium, Trollius, Ranunculus, Paradisia, and 
others of those sown in cool greenhouse in 
February, may also appear in the coming 
spring, if still preserved. We have taken 
ripe seeds from the capsules of the Paradisia. 
kept them a short time, and sown them, and 
had to wait two years before a single plant 
appeared, at which time the seedlings came 
up as thickly as spring Onions. Other seeds 
of the same lot, kept a few months longer in 
the dry state, appeared a year in advance of 
the earliest sown lot. There are 60 many 
things to contend against in the open air that, 
unless it be for the largest of seeds, seed-pans 
or pots under cove* are much the best. Tlic 
stronger growing perennials and the large- 
seeded kinds may be^smvn in the d|>en air, 

Digitized by VjOO” 



Primula japonica alba in the garden at Mount Usher, Oo. Wicklow. 
From a photograph by Mr. Geo. E. Low. 


cover with small squares of glass to keep the 
soil uniformly moist. In this way but little 
water is required, and the soil does not become 
sour. Seed-pols fully exposed in a green¬ 
house to sun and air are in the worst position 
possible.] 


great leaves are eighteen inches in length 
and five inches in breadth. This species is 
at present very rare, but there is no reason 
why it should not succeed in the open in the 
south-west under the treatment accorded to 

^MIWRSITY Of' 












700 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED ■ 


February 29, 1908 


INDOOR PLANTS 

THE DOUBLE-FLOWERED CHINESE 
PRIMULA. 

Double Chinese Primulas are not grown 
nearly so much as they deserve to be ; this 
arises, no doubt, as far as private gardens 
are concerned, from the want of a suitable 
structure in which to keep them. Double- 
flowered Primulas will succeed well and give 
a plentiful return of bloom under nearly the 
same treatment as accorded to Cyclamen 
persicum. The temperature should not fall 
below 50 degs. at night, especially when the 
plants arc in flower, with a rise of from 
5 dees, to 10 degs. in the day by fire-heat or 
15 degs. by sunshine. The atmosphere 
should at all times be made buoyant by a 
gentle circulation of air, which, if possible, 
should be arrunged for, and admitted near 
to, the hot-water pipes, at the same time 
jroviding for a little outlet by the roof venti- 
ators. Staging on which to stand the plants 
will be better than a solid surface, which in 
any way retains the moisture. If the staging 
is slightly elevated above the level of the 
hot-water pipes, so much the better. Sharp 
currents of air should be avoided at all 
times; rather than allow this, it would be 
better to shade with some very light material 
for an hour or two during the middle of the 
day. The plants should be kept as near the 
glass as possible, and for this nothing is bet¬ 
ter than the light span-roofed houses of some 
of the large trade growers. Lofty houses are 
great drawbacks to successful Primula cul¬ 
ture, not only through causing the leaves to 
become drawn, but being also more draughty 
by reason of the larger volume of air that is 
in motion. During the dull season of the 
year, when the flowers are of the most value, 
the watering should be done in the morning, 
so as to leave the house as dry as possible at 
nightfall. In watering gome caution is neces¬ 
sary, as a haphazard mode of procedure in 
respect of this will be a source of failure if 
persisted in. A plant must not be watered 
one day to save the trouble of doing it the 
next; neither must it be allowed to get so 
dry as to cause the foliage to droop. A 
medium course is the safer one to follow. 

Potting is very important. If the plants 
have been potted loosely, more moisture will 
be held for a greater length of time in the 
soil; vet possibly, if the pots are sounded 
with the knuckles, the plants will appear to 
need water when in reality they do not. 
In potting, therefore, press the soil down as 
firmly as possible by means of the finger and 
thumb, but without the aid of a potting stick. 
To do this properly, it is better to have the 
soil rather on the* dry side than otherwise. 
This should consist of light fibrous loam, 
with about one-third of well-rotted leaf-soil 
added to it. It is better not to use peat if 
it can be avoided. Sand, of course, is need¬ 
ful, and should be added, unless any old 
mortar rubbish is at hand, and which I would 
prefer when obtainable, and use rather freely 
if there is any doubt as to the quality of the 
loam. Drain the pots liberally, and on the 
top of the drainage sprinkle a few crushed 
bones when giving the final shift into the 
flowering pots, which, for all practical pur¬ 
poses, need not be more than G inches in 
diameter. 

Propagation is best done by layering 
early in the spring. It must not be left till 
the flowering season (in the case of well- 
grown plants) is at an end, or time will be 
lost that cannot afterwards be regained. 
This, I think, is a point which many may 
overlook in their desire to obtain as much 
bloom as possible. As soon ns the spring 
bulbs come into use the double Primulas 
ought to be dispensed with, and propagation 
at once commenced. A good strong plant 
will have four or more fairly lurge growths, 
each of which can be made into a plant by 
layering. Before doing so, however, all the 
larger leaves should be cut off close home, 
the decaying ones being pulled off quite clean 
at the stem. Some good soil, similar to that 
used for potting, should be worked in among 
these growths, first pegging them outwards as 
much as possible. The soil should be mounded 
up close to the* leaves and kept moderately 
moist. The old balhtTfwoots in theflpot will 

Digitized b> GOOglC 


not now get so much water; this will tend 
towards promoting fresh root-action in the 
new soil, which is the point desired. When 
it has been ascertained that the roots are 
working into the new soil, each layer should 
be severed from the parent stem with as 
many roots as possible. The strongest of 
these should be fit for potting into. 3-inch 
pots, afterwards to be transferred direct to 
their flowering pots. The smaller ones would 
be better in 21 inch pots for a start, then 
into 41-ineh pots, and eventually into their 
flowering pots. This latter batch could thus 
be used for later, blooming. After the first 
potting a closer atmosphere with more mois¬ 
ture should be maintained, in order to en¬ 
courage them to become quickly established, 
without suffering more than can possibly be 
avoided by, drooping foliage. Where there is 
an excess of foliage at this period, it would 
be better to remove some of the oldest than 
to distress the plant by trying to make it carry 
it all. As the plants become established, 
more air should bo given, and eventually they 
may be moved to cold pits for the summer 
months, with a slight shading over them in 
hot weather. They should be placed in their 
future winter quarters early in September 
before there are any signs of damp; the 
flower-spikes, which should have been pinched 
off during the summer, should then be allowed 
to develop. When well rooted, occasional 
waterings with weak liquid-manure water 
will assist them and strengthen the flower- 
spikes. 

Varieties.— Of the several varieties that 
have been introduced into cultivation from 
time to time, there are none to surpass (or 
even equal, in my opinion) the old Double 
White. The so-called double-flowered forms, 
of which seed is offered, are quite distinct 
from the preceding kinds. They are very use¬ 
ful for decoration, having been greatly im¬ 
proved upon both in substance of flower and 
variety of colours during the last few years. 
The chief failing with these kinds, in iny 
opinion, is that of not producing the succes¬ 
sion of bloom for which the old Double White 
is so valuable. G. 


NOTES' AND REPLIES. 

Croton-stems, spots on.— I will he much obliged 
if. through the medium of your valuable paper, you 
will inform rue as to the cause of the dark spots on 
Croton-stems which I have enclosed? They have only 
been noticed in a house of these within a short time. 
— J. M., Stirlingshire. 

[The spots on the Croton stems ore, we 
should say, caused by eold -at least, we can 
suggest no other reason. The temperature 
of the house may have dropped lower than 
usual, and if the glass became wholly or 
partially frozen over, when the temperature 
rose, the water, almost of icy coldness, would 
fall freely and do a good deal of damage.] 

Erecting a greenhouse —I intend building a 
small greenhouse—a tenant’s fixture—and should be 
much obliged if you would advise me on the follow¬ 
ing points:—Do you advise a span greenhouse or the 
utilising of a wooden fence, about 7 feet high and 
20 feet long? The latter commends itself to me, but 
if it us not likely to be quite successful, I should pre¬ 
fer the former, though more expensive. 1 propose 
having a central division, using one half—10 feet— 
for three or four Vines; the other ns a greenhouse, 
in which case would it be possible to arrange to shut 
off the heat from the vinery during the winter?— 
Hugonott. 

[There in not. tho least, objection lo the 
utilising of the fence, provided it, be sub¬ 
stantial and close boarded, or could be made 
so. In any case, a lean-to house will be best 
for the Vines, or, at least, a three-quarter 
span. It would be quite an easy matter by 
using valves to treat the vinery as a cold- 
house in the winter, but in times of severe 
frost the valves should be opened to keep 
tho water from freezing. As to the coot 
of building, you should consult a horticul¬ 
tural builder. For a tenant’s fixture a course 
or two of brickwork is first arranged, and 
upon this the structure is built up.] 

Pruning Guelder Rose. etc-, growing in 
pots.— How and when should the Guelder Rose be 
pruned after flowering in greenhouse, also Almond 
and Weigels? Are they best kept in pots or planted 
out?—A mateur. 

[All the subjects named should be pruned 
immediately after flowering. The Guelder 
Ros“ and the Almond should Ik* shortened 
back to good eyes. Before deciding where to 
cut. the future shape of tho s|>ecimen must be 
studied. In the case of the Weigel a, cut out 


any old and exhausted shoots, and, if neces¬ 
sary, shorten back the vigorous ones. The 
plants must be kept in the greenhouse till 
all danger from frosts is over, when they may 
l>e plunged out-of-doors. If intended for 
flowering in the greenhouse another year, 
the belter way will be to keep them alto¬ 
gether in pots. Take particular care that 
they do not suffer from want of water during 
tho summer, and if the pots are well fur¬ 
nished with roots, a dose of weak liquid- 
manure about once a fortnight at that season 
will be helpful.] 

Solatium capsicastrum.-I would like to have 
a large quantity of Solatium iu berry about Christ¬ 
mas in pots. How shall I commence to get. really 
good plants? Is seed the best or cutting*?— Stre- 

SCRIIER. 

[This useful plant is extensively grown for 
market, some growers keeping their plants 
under glass the whole season, while others 
stand them out in the open quite early. They 
arc usually propagated from cuttings, though 
some growers depend on seedlings, which, if 
selected from a good stock, make good plants, 
but they do not always set their berries so 
freely as those from cuttings. Cuttings 
should be put in in January, or even earlier. 
They may be obtained by putting some plants 
into heat. All the berries should be taken 
off and the plants will soon start into grow th. 
Short cuttings from the new growths root 
freely in a close pit where there is a good 
bottom-heat. To succeed with Solanuius, it 
is essential that they should be potted off as 
soon as sufficiently rooted, and they must not 
be cheeked in any way. During the earlier 
stages they may be grown on in heat, and 
later on they will do well in pits, or they 
may be placed out in the open, but should 
have a sheltered position. Plants grown 
from cuttings begin to flower early, but if 
kept well syringed it will prevent them set¬ 
ting berries, or. if they do before the plants 
have made sufficient growth, they must be 
taken off. Solanums may be potted in loam, 
with a liberal addition of well-rotted manure, 
and after the pots are well filled with roots, 
liquid-manure may be used freely until the 
time for setting the berries. At this period 
the syringe must be withheld and a good cir¬ 
culation of air kept up. After the plants 
are well set with berries, manure may be 
used again, and the syringe must also be used 
freely, otherwise red-spider and other insects 
will be troublesome.] 

Azalea narcissiflora.- Wherever Azaleas 
are required early in the season this is one of 
the best, either for supplying cut blooms ur 
in the shape of plants for decorative pur¬ 
poses. It forces readily, and the blossoms, 
which are semi-double, arc of tho purest 
white, and last in profusion longer than 
those of tho single varieties. Like all other 
early kinds, if forced every year it may bo 
had in bloom some time before Christmas 
with far less trouble than plants that have 
not been before subjected to the process of 
forcing. In order to insuro this they must 
not be neglected as soon as the flowers are 
over, which is too often done; on the con¬ 
trary, the growth must be completed in a 
genial temperature, and when that is finished 
the plants should bo hardened off.—T. 

Cockscombs. When well grown. Cockscombs pre¬ 
sent a peculiar and pleasing contrast to ordinary 
greenhouse flowering plants, and lend variety. The 
combe of crimson arid purple and white and yellow 
last for some little time in beauty, and are worth 
consideration just now, for presently is the time 
when seed may be sown. This should be in pans of 
light soil in a brisk temperature of about 70 degs., 
pricking the seedlings off subsequently and growing 
them on in a humid atmosphere. The same treat¬ 
ment as given to Balsams will do for Cockscombs — 
Townsman. 


Water for London gardens At a meeting of 
the Metropolitan Water Board, on Friday, Febru¬ 
ary 14th (Sir Melvill Bcacheroft presiding), the Ap¬ 
peal and Assessment Committee submitted a report 
with regard to the charges for cattle troughs, 
fountains, etc., and gardens. In the case of gardens 
it was recommended: " That, whilst reserving power 
to charge by meter or on area, the following scale bo 
adopted for garden supplies where t-lie consumption 
of water and the size of the garden are not, in the 
opinion of the board, exceptional, viz., rateable valup 
not exceeding £50 per annum. 10s. per season; £100 
per annum, 15s. per season; and £200 per annum. 2os. 
per season. Where the promises exceed £200 rateable 
value, or a sprinkler is used, the garden supply to bo 
.separately afforded, by meter, at. the trade scale, 
but w ithout imposnff; minimum rent." The r< e«»m 

mp " lti,i "" "»• **r1 lLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



■February 29, 1908 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


701 



FRUIT. 

PRUNING STANDARD PEAR TREES. 
It ie a well-known fact that of all the various 
forms in which fruit-trees are grown and 
trained, that known as the standard is the 
most neglected in the matter of pruning. 
This remark applies not only to established 
trees, but to those which have been recently 
planted, and others which are still in a young 
and growing condition—a period when the 
greatest care is needed if well-shaped, pro¬ 
perly-balanced heads are desired in the 
future—and without which their value, from 
an economic point of view, is much impaired. 
It is Pear-trees which come under this 
latter category that will be dealt with in this 
note, for it is nothing unusual to «ee such 
utterly neglected after being planted, or, if 
pruned, for the pruning to be done in a very 
unscientific man¬ 
ner. Hundreds of 
young standards 
are ruined an¬ 
nually, both from 
gross neglect and 
the ignorance of 
the elementary 
principles govern¬ 
ing the pruning of 
standards displayed 
by the pruner, and 
which no amount 
of after care can 
rectify. 

Young standard 
Pears, being, as 
they are, worked 
on the Pear 
or free stock, gene¬ 
rally make vigorous 

f ;rowth, and when 
eft to their own 
inclin ation s, 
quickly form denge, 
compact heads, or 
otnerwise one or 
two of the young 
shoots take the 
lead, and, as a re¬ 
sult of appropriat¬ 
ing most of the sap 
flow, grow away 
rapidly in a verti¬ 
cal direction, and 
what few subsidiary 
branches may be 
formed are mostly 
to be found at the 
top of the tree. In 
either case the crop 
of fruit yielded by 
such badly-formed 
and ungainly-look¬ 
ing trees is poor, 
for in the first in¬ 
stance it is only the 
spurs on the ex¬ 
tremities of the 
branches which can 
poseibly bear, for 
the wood in the 
centre does not ex¬ 
perience a suffi¬ 
ciency of sunlight 
and air to render 

it fruitful. In the second case, the 
fruit, being situated at such a height, 
and the branches which bear it gene 
rally being of a whip-like nature, and 
at the mercy of every high wind, becomes 
much bruised and knocked about, and a great 
deal of it is blown down whij,e yet immature. 
Again, the gathering of fruit from trees 
which have been allowed to grow away unre¬ 
strained is often a matter of great difficulty, 
and involves much loss of time and labour. 


state; and, turning to the other side of the 
question, or that of badly-pruned trees, it 
is generally seen that, though the young 
shoots are shortened back to varying lengths, 
they are seldom thinned out, particularly in 
the centre, while the central shoot or leader 
itself is invariably retained. This should 
not be, and it is quite the wrong way of 
dealing with a tree which, for argument’s 
sake, might have been planted last autumn. 
As received from the nursery, it may have 
five, seven, or perhaps nine young shoots, 
one of which is situated nearly or quite in 
the centre, and ie termed the leader. Now, 
this is best cut clean out, for if retained it 
cannot do otherwise than choke lip the in¬ 
terior as it develops, and prevent the ingress 
of sunlight and air. With regard to the 
remainder, if any of these are weak or badly 
ripened, they should be cut back nearly to 
their bases to form spurs. The shoots which 


Standard Pear-tree planted three years and slightly pruned. 
Only cross branchlets removed. 


arc needed to form the foundation or frame¬ 
work of the trees are those situated on the 
outside of the tree. These may be from three 
to five in number, and, if well ripened, shor¬ 
tened back one-third of tbeir length, and to 
an outward bud. This latter point is a most 
important one to observe, as it makes all the 
difference in the direction the resulting 
young growths will ultimately take, because, 
if the bud where the cut is made points out¬ 
wards, so will the new growths have a ten- 
All this may be regarded by some as an . dency to keep growing away from the centre 
exaggeration ; but numbers of such instances j of the tree, as it were, leaving it open. The 
have come under the writer’s notice at head of a standard should be so pruned that 
various times; in fact, not far from where 1 it partakes somewhat of the shape of a 
these lines are being penned are several | basin, or such as is depicted in the aceom- 
examples of Pears which bear testimony to panying illustration. Here is figured a young 
their never having received any attention standard Pear, three years planted, which 

has received just the requisite amount of 
pruning to secure an open-lieaded, well- 
balanced example, in the interior of which 
sunshine and air have free play. It is a 


whatever in the earlier stages of their exist¬ 
ence with regard to pruning. 

Here, then, are same* of the evihslatt^nding 
the non pruning hi AJnj young 


excellent pictorial object-lesson, conveying, 
as it does, to those in quest of information, 
how pruning should be done, and by it others 
will be able to see they have erred, if at all, 
in their methods of pruning. 


UNNAILING PEACH TREES. 

An unbending rule of the old-time gardener 
was the unuailing of all outdoor Peach-trees, 
the primary reason for so doing being that a 
later blossoming and a greater safety from 
frost visits in spring were assured. In very 
many gardens nowadays this is not now done, 
for close observation proves that no safety 
exists from the slightly retarded flower-buds. 
Each spring, even extending into May, has its 
record of frost, sufficient to damage the 
flowers, and it is only a few years since, that 
Peach-trees which had passed out of flower 
had the fruits frozen through, and left In a 
blackened state. The Peach crop of that year 
was, necessarily, a very light one, and it 
would not have been lighter, perhaps, if the 
same amount of frost had occurred during the 
blossoming period. Clearly, then, the prac¬ 
tices of our ancestors were not productive of 
much material gain, even should a few days 
be gained by the removal of the flowering 
branches from the wall. Personally, my aim 
is not to retard, but to further as much as 
possible the nailing of all outside trees, com¬ 
pleting the work, if possible, by the close of 
the year. I, within recent years, have com¬ 
pleted the nailing by this date, and all prun¬ 
ing of fruit-trees is also finished. There is a 
feeling of relief when this necessary work is 
complete, because in most years there are in¬ 
tervals of cold weather with the advent of 
the new year. To unnail the whole of the 
Peach-trees covering a large extent of wall 
surface would seriously add to the winter 
work, and that, too, without giving any useful 
return. Much forward work may be carried 
out in the autumn as regards Peach and Nec¬ 
tarine training and pruning after the crop has 
been cleared; indeed, if all old and unneces¬ 
sary growth is removed then, followed by 
nailing in the reserve of summer shoots, very 
little remains to be done in winter. The 
autumnal pruning and nailing were not, prob¬ 
ably, practised so much in olden days as now. 
Cost could not have entered very seriously 
into the estimates of wall-fruit tending, be¬ 
cause there would be needless waste of shreds 
and nails by the adoption of the course in 
question. It must be remembered that in the 
past the Peach crop was mainly secured from 
open walls. Peach and orchard-houses were 
not so much a luxury aa now, hence some de¬ 
gree of anxiety was probably felt for the 
safety of the crop, and every means possible 
adopted to ensure a full supply of Peaches in 
their season. West Wilts. 


GRAFTING PARADISE-STOCKS. 

I HAVE a quantity of Paradise &tocks that I wish to 
graft. I should be greatly obliged if you could help 
me through your paper. The stocks are about as 
thick as a man’s thumb. I have some bush Apple- 
trees with a number of strong shoots on them, about 
18 inches or 2 feet long. Would they be suitable for 
grafts? la there any particular selection or would 
any of last year’s shoots do? What kind of graft 
should I use? When is about the right time to graft 
them?— Carlton. 

[The beet .method of grafting stocks of 
the size you name is known as tongue or 
whip grafting. You will find this more con¬ 
venient and effective than crown grafting, 
for such is the method you have sketched, 
this latter mode being adopted only in cases 
when large trees have been headed back, and 
when it is necessary to insert more than one 
scion on each branch. The young growths you 
mention are the right kind of wood to use for 
making the grafts or scions with. These 
should l>e cut at once to the required number 
and heeled in under a hedge or north wall 
until they are required for use. The right 
time to perform grafting is when the sap is 
on the move, and this, of course, depends 
entirely upon the nature of the season and 
the climatic conditions of each particular 
locality. In your case we should judge that 
it would be about the second week in April 
before you will be a|de to commence opera¬ 
tions, but you can form your own opinion on 
this point by observing when the buds on 
adjacent fruit-trees, such as the Apple and 





703 


GARDENING ILLVSTRATED. 


February 29, 1908 


Pear, are about to break. When you ob¬ 
serve this to be taking place you may then 
begin grafting in earnest. Preliminary opera¬ 
tions, in addition to the cutting of the scions 
already mentioned, are to prepare a suffi¬ 
ciency of clay with which to surround the 
grafts for the exclusion of air after they are 
inserted and tied on, and to cut the stocks 
down to the requisite height. The clay must 
be well kneaded, and have some cow dung 
and chopped hay worked in with it to render 
it more tenacious and less likely to crack and 
fall off when subjected to the varying condi¬ 
tions of the elements. A much better way 
when the stocks to be operated on are 
numerous is to use grafting wax. This 18 
easily applied, while it seals up and therefore 
excludes air from the parts where the graft¬ 
ing has been performed in a most effectual 
manner. Another thing we advise you to do 
is to head or cut back the stocks to within 
6 inches or 9 inches of the ground; then, 
after the grafting has been done, draw soil up 
to the stock sufficiently high that the base of 
the scion is enclosed. This keeps both scion 
and stock cool and moist, and also facilitates 
the union. 

As regards the actual operation of grafting, 
the first thing will be to pare the top of the 
stocks quite smooth, and leave them sloping 
towards that side where it is proposed to in¬ 
sert the scion. For scions use the lower por¬ 
tions only of the young shoots heeled in for 
the purpose, and each scion should have at 
the least from four to five buds on it; the 
lowermost one to be close to the base, lhen 
with a. sharp knife, and at a distance of about 
one-third the length of the scion, measuring 
from the top, make a cut ill a sloping direc¬ 
tion from there to the base. When finished 
the lower end will be merely a very thin slice 
of wood and bark. Then half way down this 
cut portion make a slit or tongue, after which 
remove a slice of bark and wood from the 
stock the exact length of the scion, and if 
possible just deep enough so that the cut 
surface of the scion will exactly fat it, if not 
on both sides, certainly on the one. I hen 
make a slit or tongue on the stock to cor 
rwpoiid with that on the scion, and lit both 
together. Your best plan will be to practise 
all this beforehand, using for the purpose any 
pieces of green wood which have beep cut 
off from trees during pruning operations, 
when you will feel more confident and be less 
liable to make mistakes. You must tie the 
scion securely to the stock with raffia, wax it 
over, and when the latter is dry mould up as 
advised.] __ 

RASPBERRIES. 

In many gardens- Raspberries are relegated 
to some out-of-the-way place, or, worse still, 
they are dug between, and have all their sur¬ 
face roots injured. In order to give a plan¬ 
tation a fair chance, select a piece of light 
sandy land and give it a heavy manuring, 
when it should be trenched as deeply ns the 
nature of the soil will permit, or from 2 feet 
to 2 feet 6 inches. In doing this it is not 
advisable to bring the bottom to the top, but 
simply to break it up, mixing the manure 
A\ith it at the same time, as then the roots 
of the plants find it out when most needed, 
and feed on it when carrying their fruit. 
The trenching done, the next thing is to 
plant, and the liropor distance to put the 
young canes in the rows i-* *1 feet apart and 
i he same distance asunder, placing them 
quincunx fashion ; after that the canes 
should be cut down to near the ground, as it 
is useless attempting to take a crop the first 
season. This being so, it would be waste to 
let the land between the plants be idle, and, 
therefore, Cauliflowers, Lettuces, Onions, or 
such like low-growing things may be sown or 
planted between, but. not sufficiently near to 
shade or interfere with the Raspberries. As 
soon as these break in the spring and send 
up shoots, the three strongest should be 
selected and the others broken off or rubbed 
out, and when autumn coin s round it will 
be necessary to decide how these canes are to 
be supported. Some use wooden stakes, but 
these are objectionable, as they are continu¬ 
ally rotting, and lapi^at the longest, only 
about two years, ai/il if ihvv l ,nr ‘ 

chasea 1 they becom Wel peiw. * , 'nvl being 


the case, it is better to go to a little more 
outlay at first and buy iron rods, as though 
dearer to begin with, they become cheap in 
the end, for they are almost imperishable if 
the ends are dipped in tar to begin with and 
the other part is painted. 

The proper length to have them is about 
5 feet 6 inches, which admits of 4 feet stand¬ 
ing clear out of the ground, and the 18 inches 
in is sufficient to steady them, but they may 
be stiffened considerably by slightly twisting 
the canes reverse ways up them instead or 
just tying them to them. Strained galvanised 
wire also forms a good support for Rasp¬ 
berry canes, as the canes may be spread out 
singly and every shoot exposed, but when 
wire is used it is necessary to have stout iron 
posts at each end, or very hard wooden ones, 
if they are to be lasting. Where economy 
has to be studied and stakes and supports 
done without, it is a good plan to bring a 
portion of the canes over from one stool to 
meet the half bent over from the other; this 
forms an arch, when by tying the points to¬ 
gether they will in that wav stand a good 
deal of wind and do very well. After bear¬ 
ing, the point is to clear away the old stems 
as quickly as possible, by doing which full 
light and air are at once let into the young 
suckers, an important matter, ns by having 
full exposure they ripen better and yield 
much finer fruit than they otherwise would 
do. 

On no account should the ground among 
Raspberries be dug or forked, as neither 
can be done without disturbing the roots. 
Instead of the digging, when the pruning, 
thinning, and tying are complete, some rotten 
manure should be wheeled on and spread 
over the land as a mulching and so left to 
rot away, as the plants feel the benefit of it 
when decomposing by having its juices 
washed down, and the shade it affords keeps 
the soil moist by preventing evaporation, 
which goes on at a great rale when the sur¬ 
face is bare and exposed to the sun. 

S. 


SCARCITY OK GOOD ENGLISH 
APPLES. 

1 have been a good deal round the West-end of late, and 
taking an interest in fruit, particularly Apples, looked In 
many of the shop windows, to find only American or 
foreign Apples. What is the reason of this, and why can¬ 
not we. in our Apple-growing country, supply our own 
people better ?—H. 

[The reasons are: (1) The existence of too 
many kinds. Many of the kinds in the cata¬ 
logues may have interest for private growers, 
bub for the market, where they have to com¬ 
pete with the best American and colonial fruit, 
they are worthless. In growing for the 
market the only remedy is to grow only a 
few kinds, and those very carefully chosen. 
Even in private gardens the number of kinds 
should be reduced in favour of the best only. 
Our Apples are a a good as any in the world, 
if well cultivated and well chosen as to kinds. 

(2) Cultivation. —The presence of fewer 
kinds would enable us to understand each 
kind better, and give it the attention, stock, 
and care known to suit it, which with a large, 
miscellaneous collection of kinds is impos¬ 
sible to give. Colonial growers, when they 
make up their minds to supply the European 
market with an Apple, plant an acre, or even 
more, of it, and in that way they get to know 
more about the needs of the tree as to prun¬ 
ing, slock, and all about it. 

(3) Pruning.—I t is far too common a sight 
to see orchard and other trees over-pruned 
or not pruned at all. A gentle process of 
thinning the shoots should be always going 
on, especially in the case of standard trees, 
which we thin ft the best of trees. The chief 
aim in pruning a fruit-tree is to keep the 
centre open, and so allow the free play of 
light and air. Remove all branches that 
cross each other. We have recollections of 
a number of Cox’s Orange Pippin Apple-trees 
in the R.H.S. gardens which used to be kept 
open in the centre ill this way. the only prun¬ 
ing carried out being the cutting out of any 
branches that obstructed the light, and air 
from the centre of the trees. Treated thus, 
these trees produced annually heavy crops of 
handsome fruit. These trees were oil the 
Paradise stock, which, being surface rooting, 


necessitated the free use of a good mulching 
of manure when the Apples were swelling. 
However much we may be in favour of dwarf¬ 
ing stocks we should never forget that the 
big standard tree, on its natural stock as near 
as may be, fills the store-room best. 

(4) Dirt and disease. —The “toilet’’ of 
Apple-trees is too rarely thought of. The 
prevalence of American-blight, canker, etc., 
should not be endured, since we have the 
means now of combating them. American- 
blight alone is enough to ruin any orchard, 
and should not be tolerated either in nursery 
or garden. It is better to burn a badly in¬ 
fested tree than attempt a cure; but, if 
watched for, American-blight is easily com¬ 
batted, and we find the use of neat’s-foct oil 
effective. Orchards kept clean and free from 
canker and American-blight are a pleasure to 
see, and well worth striving for. The use of 
alkaline washes prevents canker, if we begin 
with young trees by destroying the little 
fungus which causes it. 

(5) Long-keeping Apples. —There is 
much want of these, as many of the Apples 
recently introduced only keep for a few 
weeks. This may suit the market growers, 
when there is a great demand in the early 
autumn for Apples; but these soft, early 
Apples have been overdone, and a great 
want in our markets all through the winter 
and early spring is sound, keeping Apples. 
If this be so for the market, it is even more 
true for the private garden. One of the 
most useful things in a garden is a good, 
cool store-room for Apples that will keep 
fresh throughout the winter and the spring, 
such as Wellington. Bramley’s, Northern 
Greening, French Crab, Norfolk Beaufin, 
and Han well Souring. When they come 
into the market to be dealt with by market 
growers then comes the very important ques¬ 
tion of grading, which is so well done by the 
Canadian and Colonial growers, and consists 
in the rejection of poor fruit and the classing 
of others, which so greatly assists the sale. 
In spite of the tine example set us in this 
wav by foreign growers, we still see in the 
markets baskets full of the poorest rubbish, 
hardly fit to go to pigs, sent by English 
growers. All such inferior Apples should 
not be sent to the market at all, as they 
can hardly pay for the carriage.] 


NOTES AND REPLIES. 

Red Currants losing their leaves -Could 
you give me any reason for Red Currant-bushes 
losing their leaves almost directly after fruiting? 1 
noticed no blight on them, but enclose a branch for 
your inspection.— M. C. 

[We fear the leaves on your Currant-bushes 
have been killed by one of the fungi blights 
to which both Red and White Currants are 
subject; but in the absence of specimens of 
infested leaves, we are unable to say defi¬ 
nitely which species of fungus it is. In any 
cane, the remedy is the same, and that is to 
spray the bushes immediately with Bordeaux 
mixture, and again as soon as they are 
cleared of fruit. You should also take the 
precaution to keep the ground between the 
bushes quite clean, allowing no weeds of any 
description, particularly Groundsel, and rake 
up and burn all leaves as fast as they fall, 
should the blight again put in an appearance. 
By paying strict, attention to these details, 
and in persevering with the spraying, you will 
then iu time etamp it out. Bordeaux mix¬ 
ture in made r-s follows : Take of bluestono 
(eopper sulphate) 6 lb., and place it in a 
piece of sacking or canvas, and suspend it on 
a stick placed across the top of a tub holding 
twenty gallons of water, where it will gra¬ 
dually dissolve. Then take 4 lb. of fresh, 
unelaked lime, gradually slake it by using no 
more water than will accomplish this. When 
this process is complete, add enough water 
to make two gallons. Strain this through a 
"piece of fine canvaa, add it to the copper solu¬ 
tion, stir well to ensure a thorough mixing of 
the two fluids, when it will be ready for use. 
Apply with a, sprayer. If you have no great 
number of bushes to dress, ail ordinary spray¬ 
ing syringe will answer the purpose. In 
preparing the above, be sure and uee wooden 
vessels only, avoiding the Ujsc .of iron.or sine 


buckets-] 


IA-CHAMF 


IfiN 



pEniiuAnY 29, 190S 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


70S 


GARDEN WORK. 


Conservatory. —Much of the work referred 
to under the above heading will, during the 
growing season, be carried out in other 
houses. Very few conservatories are really 
good growing structures. In large gardens 
the conservatory is really a show house. In 
some instances it adjoins the mansion or is 
near to it, and if the conservatory is to be 
kept bright with flowers all the year, there 
must be other houses to bring them on, and a 
succession must be kept up by means of the 
houses w’hich are set apart for the purpose. 
For instance, to do Tree and Malmaison 
Carnations well, they should have a house to 
themselves until the flowers begin to expand. 
Pelargoniums, Lilies, Azaleas, etc., after 
flowering, should be moved to another house 
to complete and harden growth. Climbers 
are more or less fixtures, as are also Camel- 
lir.e when planted in the borders. Palms, 
Dracaenas, and other suitable plants in tubs 
generally remain in the house, as they are 
required for backgrounds. If they are 
numerous, a few may be taken out for 
month or two in summer, and plunged out 
in a sheltered spot on the lawn, to be brought 
back again in September. Roses, if planted 
out in the conservatory, if the right kinds 
are selected, will flower pretty well all the 
year. There is an old Tea Rose named 
Moiret. The flowers come white under gla«H, 
it is very free both in growth and flowering, 
and is seldom without blooms, winter or sum¬ 
mer. Roses do best in the conservatory 
when they have room to ramble about up in 
the roof. They do not want much pruning in 
a general way, but there comes a time when 
the growth in sluggish, and then they should 
have the knife freely. I am only referring 
now to free-growing Teas and Noisettes. 
Where there is a large stock of plants coming 
on, a good deal can be done with baskets, 
which can be improvised. Large vases can 
be filled with bulbs and dropped in just where 
colour is wanted. As Acacias, Luculias, 
and other things go out of bloom, prune into 
shape. 

Forcing-house. —To be really a forcing- 
house, there should be a night temperature 
of GO degs. or more. There is a sense in 
which all glass structures may be termed 
forcing-houses) as the temperature, being 
higher than that outside, some influence of a 
stimulating nature is given. This is, or 
should be, a busy season in the forcing-house. 
The raining of seedlings for the summer de¬ 
coration of tho outdoor garden usually begins 
now. Where large numbers of tender plants 
are required for massing, shallow boxes are 
better than pots or pans. The inexperienced 
man or woman seed-sower always sows too 
thickly, and inanv little plants are completely 
ruined from this cause alone. Even when 
the plants are moved into other boxes or 
pricked out, as the gardener terms it, much 
harm is done. Petunias, Lobelias, Verbenas, 
Begonias, and other plants now coming on, 
when sown thickly, often damp off and disap¬ 
pear. This damping or fogging off is very 
often caused by letting the plants in the pans 
or boxes get too dry; the stem shrivels, and 
the crowded roots perish. And when that 
stage is reached, water does not revive them. 
Thick sowing is aecountable for much of this 
damage. 

Strawberries in succession.— To keep up 
a succession of ripe fruits, from 50 to 100 
plants should be introduced to a moderate 
temperature every ten days or so. At this 
season, where much Strawberry forcing is 
done, there will be shelves fixed up, tempo¬ 
rarily or otherwise, in every house where the 
right temperature is maintained. They may 
be started in any temperature between 
50 degs. and GO degs. As a rule, they are 
started at 50 dogs, or 55 degs., and moved to 
the warm house, when the blossoms are set 
and the fruits just beginning toswell. Use the 
syringe freely among them if possible, as it 
will keep down green-fly and red-spider, as 
these insects give trouble in a dry atmos¬ 
phere. The weather will now permit of more 
ventilation being given, so that blorsoms will 
set without help from the bruoh or rabbit’s 
tail. As soon as a dozen good fruits have 
set, remove all th^4f.te blossoms. Give 
liquid-manure as 


the l£to blossoms. 

fetK gle 


Early Peach-house.— Continue the disbud¬ 
ding till the work is finished. Young fruits 
also should be thinned from the under-side 
of the trellis. It is difficult to say what con¬ 
stitutes a crop of fruit, as so much depends 
upon the strength and vigour of the trees. 
Healthy, vigorous trees should carry two 
fruits to the Rquare foot, or eighteen to 
twenty to the square yard of trellis. Peach- 
trees will take a good deal of nourishment 
in the shape of liquid-manure. The ven¬ 
tilation will require careful management now. 
Give a little air when the thermometer ap¬ 
proaches 70 degs., and increase it as the day 
advances. Do not open the lights wide in 
the beginning of the day with a view to 
saving labour, and if a bright morning does 
not fulfil its promise, close the house when 
clouds cover the sun. Close early, and damp 
down by 3.30 p.m. 

Early vinery. —In the earliest house, 
whether the Vines are in pots or planted out, 
the Grapes will have been thinned and swell¬ 
ing rapidly. Sub-laterals should he promptly 
stopped to one leaf, and unless the water is 
very pure, and of the same temperature as 
the house, the syringe should be laid aside, 
and the necessary moisture supplied by damp¬ 
ing paths and borders. The night tempera¬ 
ture may move a little between GO degs. and 
G5 degs. The lowest temperature will usually 
be about sunrise in the morning. Fires can 
bo banked up as soon as the sun’s influence 
Is felt upon the house, and a little air can be 
given to let out the condensed moisture. The 
ventilation should bo worked on the tentative 
principle, so that there are no injurious fluc¬ 
tuations. Close by 3.30 p.m.. and damp down. 
Moisten all dry spots in the borders with 
liquid-man ure. 

Cucumbers in frames.— These may be 
started now’ in substantial beds, well put to¬ 
gether, so that the heat may be steady and 
lasting. Stop the leading shoots, so that 
there may be shoots enough to fill the frame. 
It may probably be necessary to add more 
soil as the plants grow. Give chilled water 
when required, sprinkling the foliage before 
closing in the afternoon. Mat up at night, 
and if the heat declines, athl linings to the 
bed. 

Flowering plants In the house.— Azaleas 
last fairly well if the roots are kept moist. 
Lily of the Valley, Solomon’s Seal, Lilacs. 
Deutziae, and Begonias of the Gloire de Lor¬ 
raine section also are useful. Vases filled 
with Narcissi and Freesias will last some 
time, but a weekly change will be necessary. 
Hyacinths are almost teo fragrant for the 
room. Cypripediums and other Orchids from 
the cool-house may be had, and Palms and 
Ferns for foliage. 

Outdoor garden. —The soil now works 
freely where it has been turned up and ex¬ 
posed. In planting Roses or anything w r e 
wish to do well, we place a little good loamy 
compost, round the roots. Many amateurs 
think manure placed rpund the roots will 
help them; but the roots will not take kindly 
to it, and though manure is necessary for 
Roses, they do not require it in that w r ay. 
Blend it with the soil, reserving a little to 
act as a mulch on the surface. There are 
nice things to be had for bedding or massing 
among Antirrhinums or Snapdragons. There 
are dwarf white, yellow, pink, and crimson 
kinds, which come true from seeds. The 
seeds should be sow r n now thinly in boxes in 
slight heat, and pricked into other boxes 
when large enough to handle, and, when well 
hardened off, they may be planted out early 
in May. Seedling Pentstemons from a good 
strain, raised now’, will makegood, cheap 
masses during summer. This is one -way of 
working up an improved stock, as cuttings 
may be taken from the best, and reserved for 
next year’s planting. 

Fruit garden.— Nuts and Filberts mav 
have what pruning is required now. Root- 
prune over luxuriant Figs, and thin out 
some of the old branches, and train these 
left thinly. If the roots are kept under con¬ 
trol, there is no difficulty in inducing Figs 
on a warm wall to bear freely, if the grow’th 
is kept reasonably thin. If any fruit-tree 
planting remains to be done, better see to it 
at once, as the roots will soon be active. 
Trees planted during the autumn are now 
busy making new roots. This does not refer 


to Grape-Vines, as they do not generally 
make new roots till the buds begin to move. 
If it is intended to graft any of the large 
trees, better head back now, if not already 
done, to within a few inches of the position 
where the grafts will be inserted. Young 
w’ood to form grafts should be secured and 
laid in the shade, so that the buds may re¬ 
main dormant. Finish planting Raspberries, 
Loganberries, and bush fruits. If Goose¬ 
berries are purchased, be careful about ob¬ 
taining plants from a clean stock, and it 
would be well, when spraying fruit-trees, to 
give the bush-fruits attention. 

Vegetable garden —Take advantage of 
every fine, dry day to sow seeds and plant 
anything that requires it. Lettuces and Cab¬ 
bages can be planted. If any Cabbage plants 
are bolting prematurely, pull them up, and 
fill up with good plants from the seed-bed. 
Tho experienced vegetable man makes two or 
more sowings of Cabbage-seeds, as some¬ 
times the early-sown plants may bolt, and tho 
second lot come true. There is more 
than one cause for bolting in Cabbages, 
as, apart from the time of sowing, climate 
may have some influence. Heredity also has 
an important influence upon progeny. All 
vacant land should he manured and trenched 
or deeply dug, ready for the next crop. Sow 
Onions and Parsnips as soon as the land is 
in a suitable condition. A few Onions may 
be sown outside for drawing young, even 
where the main crop Is raised under glass. 
Cauliflowers may be planted in a warm situa¬ 
tion under hand-lights. Continue to make 
up Mushroom-beds to fill vacancies in the 
house. Bring on successions of Seakole, As¬ 
paragus, and Rhubarb. E. Hobday. 


THE COMING WEEK’S WORK. 

Extracts from a Garden Diary. 

March Snd .—Planted Gladioli for early 
flowering; shall plant others later for succes¬ 
sion. Sowed seeds of Gladioli in boxes, also 
seeds of good Carnations from our own saving. 
There is a good deal of seed-sowing in hand 
now. Asters, Stocks, and other things of like 
character, usually sown under glass, may be 
sown now for early bloom, but Asters, being 
useful for filling late beds and borders, will 
b3 sown again in succession. 

March 3rd .—Rearranged a broad herba¬ 
ceous border, where the plants were becoming 
crowded. There are certain plants, such as 
Poeonies, which flower better when not dis¬ 
turbed. Other things, such as Phloxes, 
Pyrethrums, Michaelmas Daisies, Rud- 
beckias, and free-growing things generally, 
should be divided and transplanted every 
three or four years, and these last we are now 
working amongst. Some of the hardiest 
annuals have been sown. 

March 4th .—Early and second early Peas 
are being sown freely. Sutton’s Ninetyfold 
and Duke of York Potatoes have been planted 
in succession to the early border. Started 
the Dahlias in heat, to divide bv-and bye or 
take cuttings. We want to increase stock of 
Salvia patens, and, in addition to cuttings 
from old roots, have sown seeds freply. 
Roses on south walls have been pruned, as we 
want flowers for cutting. 

March 5th .—We have looked over the net¬ 
ting for covering wall-trees when in blossom, 
and repaired it where necessary. The nets w ill 
not be used yet, but Apricot blossoms usually 
begin to open about the middle of March. 
Peaches come a little later. Sowed Stocks, 
Asters, and other annuals, usually sown 
under gla^s, in boxes in cool house. Moved 
a lot of Lilacs, Azalea mollis, and other 
shrubs coming into flower to conservatory. 

March 6th .—Potted more Tuberoses, i'hey 
will be kept dryish till they begin to grow. 
These cannot be well grown without heat, and 
root-warmth is essential. Put in more cut¬ 
tings of many things, including Chrysanthe¬ 
mums. Fuchsias, and Heliotropes. Rear¬ 
ranged a rock-garden, the plants on which 
had outgrowm their position. The plants were 
sorted over, and some of the strong growers 
removed elsewhere. The plants have been 
arranged according to habit of growth. 

March 7th.—' Top-dressed Cucumbers with 
loam and manure. Planted a warm house 
with Melons. The hills are composed of 
rather heavy loam, zwith a little bone-meal 
and basic slag, made firm, 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




704 


g. mi)itmxn iiwsrn, wed, 


pEDKUAnt 29, 1903 


> 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

Questions .—Queries and answers an inserted to 
Gardening free of charge if correspondents follow these 
rules: All communications should be clearly and concisely 
written on one side of the paper only , and addressed to 
the Editor of Gardening, 17, Fumivalstreet, Uolbom, 
London, E.C. Letters on business should be sent to the 
Publisher. The name and address of the sender are 
required in addition to any designation he may desire to 
be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, 
each should be on a separate piece of paper, and not more 
than three queries should be sent at a time. Correspon¬ 
dents should bear in mind that, as Gardening has to be 
sent to press some time in advance of date, queries cannot 
always be replied to in the issue immediately following 
the receipt of their communication. We do not reply to 
queries by post. 

Naming fruit —Readers who desire our help in 
naming fruit should bear in mind that several specimens 
in different stages of colour and size of the same kind 
greatly assist ill its determination. We have received from 
several correspondents single specimens of fruits for 
naming, these in many cases being unripe and other¬ 
wise poor. The differences between varieties of fruits are 
in many cases so trifling that it is necessary that three 
specimens of each kitid should be sent. We can undertake 
to name only four varieties at a time, and these only when 
the above directions are observed. 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 

Sowing annuals (Arthur Wylie ).—The annuals 
you mention will not bear transplanting. You will 
have to row them where they are to bloom. This 
you can do after the Polyanthuses are out of flower. 
The only difference will be that they will be later in 
coming into bloom. 

Blue Hydrangaas (Norah Lindsay ).—Try water¬ 
ing the plants with a weak solution of iron. Get 
some rusty nails and iron filings, steep these in 
water, and water tl.e plants once or twice a week 
while the plants are growing. In soil impregnated 
with iron the flowers always have a blue shade of 
colour. 

Plantains on lawns (John E. Sparrow).— Plan¬ 
tains on lawns are difficult to get rid of, but per¬ 
severance in digging them up will eradicate them in 
time. Vitriol or salt dropped into the cavity from 
winch tlie crown has been taken should be effective. 
In bad gases it will in the end be better and cheaper 
to pare off the turf, dig the land over, and sow some 
good GraM-seeds. 

Roman Hyacinths failing (Puzzled ).—The only 
reason that we can suggest for the failure of youi 
Homan Hyacinths is that you brought the bulbs into 
the greenhouse before sufficient roots were made. 
W ithout abundance of roots you cannot expect the 
bulbs to do well. Are you quite sure that there was 
nothing injurious in the ashes which you used for 
covering the bulbs? 

Chrysanthemums—sport from Souvenir de 
Petite Amie {J. F. Cranswick).— Yes; there is a 
yellow variety in commerce bearing the name ol 
Yellow Petite Amie This has been in commerce foi 
some time now, but has never been so popular as the 
parent variety. The original variety produces white 
flowers on a beautiful habit of growth, and its value 
lies in the fact that white flowers are more valuable 
than those of any of the coloured sorts. 

Planting Pyrethrums (M. C. Learoyd ).—The 
beet time to divide and plant these is in the spring, 
when the plants have made some growth. Pyre- 
thrums like good, rich soil to grow in, and deep, sub¬ 
stantial loam to sustain them through the flowering 
period. In such a soil as you have they should be 
watered freely during the summer and freely 
mulched with rotten manure. If attended to when 
planted until they get established they will flower 
fairly well the first year. We do not reply to queries 
by post. 

Early-flowering Chrysanthemums (Anon).— 
The following selection of twelve sorts, embracing 
Japanese, Pompon, and single kinds, should answer 
your purpose‘. — Japanese: Goacher's Crimson, deep 
crimson; Nina Blick, terra-cotta red; Rosie, bronzy 
terra-cotta; White Mass6, creamy-white; Claret, 
bright rosy-claret; Horace Martin, yellow; anq 
Mme. Marie Massl, lilac mauve. Pompons: Mme. 


Edouard Lefort, orange and red; Golden Beauty, I 
golden-yellow; Orange Pet, gold, shaded orunge; i 
and Mr. Selly, rosy-pink. To complete the dozen I 
sorts, a single, named Mrs. Chas. H. Curtis, & rich | 
crimson-coloured flower, should be included. The 
foregoing should come into bloom in the early days 
of September, and, if the season is favourable, main¬ 
tain a display until November. Get the plants early 
in May. 

Sowing Sweet Peas (C. M. 0 .).—It is the rule 
to sow Sweet l’eas now and early in March to have 
good flowers at the end or June and early in July, 
still, so much depends on culture and whether the 
soil be warm or cold. But to have flowers at their | 
best in the middle of August it. will be needful to 
sow about the end of April or early in May. You 
would do wisely to make two sowings just then at 
intervals of a fortnight, as local conditions materi- I 
ally govern growth and time of flowering. If the 1 
plants seem to throw their blooms too early, keep 
them clipped oft before they open. Also, if the 
weather be dry, water the Peas very liberally through 
furrows drawn each side of the rows. Do not let tne 
plants be less than 6 inches apart. Have the ground 
deeply trenched and manured long before you have 
need to sow the seeds. 

Brightly-coloured Chrysanthemums for the 
outdoor garden (IK. Painter).—As you say you have 
no glass 10 protect your plants at any time, we 
would advise you when ordering them to ask that 
they be specially hardened off preparatory to the 1 
planting, which should be done during the second 
week in May or a little earlier if the weather is 
favourable. By bright colours, we presume you 
mean crimson, bronze, yellow’, and other interme¬ 
diate tones of these same colours. We, therefore, 
recommend the following sorts as being likely to suit 
youGoacher'fl Crimson, bright crimson, 2J feet, 
late August to October; Nina Blick, bright .scarlet- 
red, passing to bronze, feet, September to Octo¬ 
ber; Polly, orange, shaded amber, 2| feet, late 
August to October; Carrie, deep yellow, 2 feet to 
2 $ feet, August and September; Barrie, bronzy- 
orange on gold ground, 2 feet, September and Octo¬ 
ber; and George Bowness, crushed strawberry, 

3 feet, late August to early October. Then for Octu- 
ber displays we can recommend the following:— i 
Howard >i. Crane, bright chestnut, with goluen- 
bronze reverse, 4 feet lo 5 feet, October and early 
November; Mychett Beauty, golden-yellow, 4 feet, 
October and early November; and Tuckswood j 
Bronze, reddish-bronze, 3 feet, October. Let the 
plants grow naturally. We do not agree with pinch- . 
mg or Btopplng as so many growers do. It is a mis- | 
take, and the plants never seem to do so well out¬ 
doors when their natural manner of growth is inter¬ 
fered with. 

TREES AND SHRUBS. 

Good variegated Ivies (IK. II. S.).—The follow¬ 
ing are good; Hedora niaculata, H. argentea mar 
ginata, H. Helix uureo maculata, H. H. mudeirensia 
variegata (not quite hardy), B. {silver (^ueeu, h. 
tricolor, and H. Mrs. Pollock. 

FRUIT. 

Rebuilding a vinery greenhouse (East 

Anglian).— Seeing that you are rebuilding the house, 
we should strongly advise you to clear out the old- 
fashioned flue and substitute hot-water pipes. The 
question of price is not for us to decide. You should 
obtain a rival estimate and compare the two. As 
the Vines will soon be on the move the work ought 
to be taken in hand at once and completed without I 
delay. Under any circumstances, you will have to 
And a home for your greenhouse plants during re¬ 
building. The eills ought to be of pitch Pine, as 
the ordinary deal, from the constant moisture, will 
very quickly decay. Pitch Pine is, of course, more 
expensive, but it is a gain in the end. 

VEGETABLES. 

Tomato fungus (J. A.).—The disease affecting 
your Tomato-plants is, doubtless, what is known as 
Tomato-leaf mould or Cladosporium fulvum. This i 
presents on the leaves just the appearance described | 
by you. It is a product of bad Ventilation, and, 
a-s you say you only have a light in the roof of your j 
Tomato-house to open, it seems evident that the 
atmosphere about the plants is damp and sluggish. 
That is a difficulty in ventilation you may find It 
hard to correct. The plants should have as little ! 


water as possible, as the floor of the house needs to 
be kept dry. 'Ibe beet fungicide is a weak solution of 
sulphide of potassium, but we should prefer to use, 
by spraying, the sulphate of copper and lime solution 
also weak. If either of these solutions be employed, 
all fruits when gathered should be wiped clean before 
they are consumed- 

Rotting in Parsnips (Af. 0. S.).— It is probable 
that the rotting or decay in your Parsnip-roots was 
due to an attacK of the Parsnip rot mould—a fungus 
which is in wet soils apt to be very destructive to 
these roots. If not due to that, then the soil in 
which grown may be too wet and sour, or you may 
have had a far too heavy rainfall in the autumn. 
In any ease, we advise you to throw tlie ground to 
be sown with seed up into ridges, the tops 2 feet 
apart. When you sow seed, draw drills along on the 
crown or centre of each ridge, then heavily dust 
with lime and soot, and sow tne seeds, as, during 
the summer flat hoeing will cause the ridges to slope 
off on either side, too much rain will run oft to the 
centres of the spaces between the rows and away 
from the roots. Art or roots arc formed, give occa¬ 
sional dustings along the rows of plants of fresh- 
slacked lime to absorb moisture. 


SHORT REPLIES. 

A. J B .—You cannot do better than U6e a stone¬ 
edging, planting rock-plapts to creep over it. For 
this purpose you huve a great choice in Stonecrops, 
Campanulas, Thymes. This subject of ” Walks and 
edgings” is fully dealt with in ’•'Ihe English Flower 

Garden,” and illustrations given.- North Lindsay.— 

The Christmas Rose to which you refer is, no doubt, 
Helleborus colchicus. To prevent the flowers droop¬ 
ing when cut, try slitting the stems. E. P. L.— 

See reply to W. Painter, in this iasue, p. 704, re 
” Brightly'-coloured Chrysanthemums for the ontdoor 

garden.”- A. M. Silcox.— Yes; Parsnip Tender and 

True is a good variety, so also ie Student. Parsnips 
must be sown where they are to grow. You'cannot 

transplant them.- Perplexed .—Use bricks laid in 

cement, and face with cement, and you need have 
no fear. Of course, you may use concrete instead 

of the bricks- H. Q. E. — We do not think 

you cun purchase dried specimens of plants. You 

will have to make a collection yourself.- F. b. 

— We ehould think Clematis Jackmanni would 
do, but if you decide on this, you will have to 
prepare a station for the plant, clearing away the 
inferior soil to a depth of 2 feet and 8 feet wide, 
substituting some good loamy soil to which has been 
added some rotted manure. You can purchase a 
plant in a pot and plant at once. 


NAMES OF PLANTS AND FRUITS. 

Names of plants. -t’. F. L .—The Alexandrian 
Laurel (Kuscus racemosus). It does well in partial 
shade and should have deep loamy soil, but will 

thrive on chalk.- M. E. G .—The Lungwort (Pul- 

monaria officinalis).- E. J. Hipwell.—l, Staphylea 

colchica; 2, Specimen insufficient; 8, Asparagus 
Sprengeri. 

Names of fruit.— Shamrock .—The fruit of a Pas¬ 
sion-flower (Passiflora). We must have flowers to be 

quite sure as to the variety.- M. D.— Apples; 1, 

Baumann’s Red Reinette; 2, 8eek-no-Further, now- 
included or classed with King of the Pippins; 3, 

Cox's Orange Pippin.-J. W. H., Kent.— Apple, we 

think, is a small specimen of Adam’s Pearmain. 


Books received.—” Lawns,” Sutton and Sons, 
Reading. 

Catalogues received.— J. W. and E. B. Jones, 

Leicester House, Oswestry. — List of Vegetable and 

Flower Seeds. -Me Hat tie and Co., Chester. — 

Selected Farm Seeds. 


Alpine plants for rock-garden formed of 
limestone —Will some reader please tell me the 
.most suitable small and choice alpines for growing on 
a new rock-garden lormed ot limestone, with a fully- 
exposed south-west, sunny aspect, well sheltered? I 
have put 2 feet of good old loam, grit, and leaf- 
mould and some peat- into the pockets.—E rnest Bal- 
i ARP. 


E X D OF V 0 Ll'ME XXIX 





Flowers. Fruit. Vegetables. 


sfrafed. 
lor Town 6 Country. 


Villa and Cottage Gardens. 


bees. Poultry. uage uiras. 


VOL. XXIX.—No. 1512. 


REOISTERKD AT TTTK 
OKNF.RAI, POST OFFICE 
AS A NEWSPAPER. 


SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 20, 1008. 


OFFICE : 

17, FUR NIVAL STREET, 
LONDON, K.O. 


ONE PENNY. 


"D ARR’S SEED GUIDE contains a Select List 

*■"* of the bent Vegetables and the moat beautiful Annuals 
and Perennials for Harden and Greenhouse, including many 
Novelties of sterling merit. Free on application. 

■g ARR’S SPUING BULB CATALOGUE 

" (free) for the best Anemones, Cannos, Dahlias, Gladioli, 
Julies, Monlbretios, lianunculus, Tigridias, and other Bulbs 
and Tubers for early Spring planting —BARR & SONS, 
11. 1 2, and 13, King-street, Covent Garden, London. 

ABOL INSECTICIDE, NON POISONOUS. 

Best plant wash. Praised by all users. None disap- 
pointed A t rial will satisfy you. 


A BOL SYRINGE, BEST SPRAYER.—Does 

more and better work than any other syringe double the 
size. Try it and you will agree. Sold by Nurserymen, 
Beadsmen. Ac. Full particulars from—E. A. WHITE, Lid., 
Paddock Wood. Kent. 


TJOBBIE & CO., King s Seedsmen, Rothesay, 
—For 1938 Catalogue (232 pages, 250 illustrations) semi 
3d. for postage. Mention this paper. 


■pARLY -Flowering CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

■*-* —The best up-to-date varieties at popular prices. List 
free. Also Violas, Pansies, Carnations, Michaelmas Daisies. 
Best Collections in this country. Lists free. — WM. 
8YDENIIAM, Tamworlh, Staffordshire. 

A MERICAN Winter-flower’gCARNATIONS. 

—Best and newest varieties. Moderate prices. Also 
Malmaisons and Border Carnations. Catalogues free.— 
HAYWAR D M ATI I IAS. Medstead. Hants. 


GjAKNATlONS.—DOUGLAS for the best ol 

and new varieties Malmaison and Tree-Camatioi 


j old 

-- -and Tree-Carnations 

(best Americans), from 10s. per doz. Border, 0s. to 12s. per 
dor._Carnation and Pink seed. Is. Gd and 2s. Gd. per pkt. 

HOLD MEDAL AURICULAS. — Show or 

Edged, 21s to 30s. per doz.; Alpine, 9s. to 21s. per 
doz. Alpine Auricula seed, Is. 6d. per pkt. : Show, 2s. Gd. 

E r pkt. Illustrated Catalogue free from—J. DOUGLAS, 
lenBide. Great Bookham. 


G 


RANI) NEW LAXTONIAN PEA.—First 

Early Marrow, height 18 inches, the finest early yet 
introduced. 2s. per J pint. Full particulars of above and 
other Novelties in new Seed Catalogue, gratis and post free 
-LAXTON BROTHERS, Bedford. 


UWELLS’ New Early-flowering Single Chrys- 

» ’ an them unis were the delight of all who raw them at 
our Nurseries. They are gems for cutting, and flower 
from July till November. Everyone with a garden should 
try them. 12 distinct colours, 5s. 12 older sorts (Octolier 

varieties), 2s. Cd. New varieties on page 46 of Catalogue. 
Early-flowering Japanese varieties from 2s. 6d. per dozen ; 
£1 per 100; best sorts, delivered any time from now till May 
to suit purchasers. Send for Catalogue, free. Wells' Book, 
“The Culture of the Chrysanthemum," post free. Is. Gd 
-W. WELLS. Merstham, Surrey. 


riARNATIUNS, Pansies, Violas, Chrysanthe- 

mums, anil Michaelmas Daisies. Finest Collections and 
liest value in the trade. Prices are low, and large discounts 
for cash. Catalogues free.—8. PYE, Bowgreave Nursery, 
(Jars tang.__ 

•"TELEGRAPH CUCUMBER (Rolliason’s), 25 

-1- seeds, 6d.; 100, Is. 6d. Now Tomato “Marvel," ideal 
cropper, early, 3d. pkt.—HILE. Ilford 


TROUBLE BLUE HEPATICA, very rare, 

-LJ the time to j lrn*. 6d. per crown, cw.o.— Miss 8 


Wainfleet. Lincolnshire. 


now 

Miss SAUL, 


T G. GlLLETT, Scurry-road, Canterbury, 
• will forward 1 dozen Roses, H.P., H T, and Teas 
carriage paid t o your do or , for 4s, Good stuff; room wan ted* 

4-BUSHEL SACK LEAF-MOULD (pure 

^ Oak-leaf), carriage paid to London, 3s. 9d.; three bushels 

f prepared Potting Soil, 3s.9d.; three bushels Peat. 3s.9d.; three 
tushels Loam. 3s. 9d. ; two buBhels Bedfordshire Sand, 3s. Gd. 
—E VAN DEft MEERSCH. Queen’s Nursery, Selhurst, S.E. 

K eep the birds from the buds.— 

Tanned Netting, the Tery best procurable, 100 yards 
by 1 yard, 4s. Any length and width supplied. — E. B. 
HA WTHO RN k CO., London Works. Reading._ 

‘pLOWER POTS.—The best finished and 

J- most porous pot In the market. Prices and Catalogue, 
etc.-SOREMERSTON COAL CO., Ltd., Scremeraton, 
Berwick-on-Tweed. 


tTUTS fob thb GARDEN.— Potting Sheds, 

■L*- Workshops, Cycle Houses, Boot Rooms, Servants' Mess 
Rooms, Children's Play rooms, &c. Send for Illustrated 
Catalogue, free. — BOULTON k PAUL, Ltd., Manufac¬ 
turers, Norwich._ 


TTEATING APPARATUS for Greenhouses. 

Write for special prices. Give length and width of 
greenhouse. Catalogues free. Medals awarded, 1865, 1881. 
1895.—J. ATTWOOD, Stourbridge. 


Google 


WOW IS THE TIME TO PLANT Hfirdy 

-*-■ Borders for colour effect to give a succession of flowers 
for many successive seasons. Write at once, with particulars 
of space to lie filled, and (on order) selections will bo pre¬ 
pared and packed ready for planting on Kelway's “ Artistic " 
Border System for flower throughout the season, and having 
in view col our effect. KE LWAY & SON, Lan gport. 

fpHE VERY BEST SEASON of the year for 

planting Pyrethrums and Delphiniums is now. Nothing 
can surpass Kelway's Brilliant New Pyrethrums (Collection 
“ B." 12a. per dozen) in profusion of flowers for cutting ; nor 
Kelway's Magnificent New Delphiniums (Collection “C," 
24s. per dozen) in stately beauty in beds and borders. Write 
for immediate delivery (carriage and package free for remit¬ 
tance with order) to—KELWAY A SON, The Royal Horti¬ 
culturists^ Langport, Somerset. 


I NOW.—WEBBS’ REGINA TOMATO, 

s. Gd. per packet. 


ST_ 

UUEBBS’ Improved Windsor BROAD BEAN 

” Is. 6d. per quart._ 

WEBBS’ ROYAL FAVOUR CUCUMBER, 

* " Is. 6d. per packet. 


W K 


BB <fe SONS, The King’s Seedsmen, 

Wordsley, Stourbridge. _ 


HUB SEEDS.—“ The Amateur’s Boon,”small 

VI packets of the Very Best (Not penny packet quality) at 
little cost. Customer won 10 First Prizes last year. Over 
70 yea rs' experience.—COLLINS Sc GABRIEL (see under) 
"DU LBS for Spring Blunting ; none liner ; fair 

LI prices. Anemones, Begonias, Gladioli, LilieB, Ranun¬ 
culus, etc. Descriptive List free.-kX)LLINS & GABRIEL, 
39. Waterloo-road, London, S.E._ 


T ILIUM AURATUM, 12, 2s. 6d.; 25, 4s. Gd.; 
Ll 10 to 12-inch bulbs, 6, 2s. 6d.; 12, 4s. 6d. Lilium longi- 
flomm, 12, 2s. Cd ; 25, 4s. 6d. Tiger Lilies. 12, Is. 6cl ; 25, 2».6<1 
Madonna I.ilies, 6, 2s. 6d ; 12, 3s. 6d. Lilium Melpomene 
3. 2s Gd ; 6, 4s. 6(1 Gladioli, mixed, 12, la.; 100, 4a. 6<1. 
English Iris, 12, 1 b.; 100, 3s. 6d. Begonias for pots, 12, in 
12 colours, 2a. 6d. Doubles, 4s. 6d. Mixed Begonias, 25, 
2s. 6d.; 100, 7s. 6d. Gloxinias, 12, 2s. 6 d ; 50, 4s. 6d- Tube¬ 
roses. G, la. 6d ; 12, 2s. 6d. Write for Catalogues.—T. H 
LOADE R. 5. Ad dington - grove, Sydenh am. S.E. 


MEW SWEET PEA Mits. William King.— 

L“ An improved John Ingman. True, waved, perfectly 
fixed, and guaranteed. To be had of most seedsmen. 6-1 or 
Is. per packet (25 seeds. Is.), or direct—E. W. KING & CO., 
Seed Growers, Coggeshall, Essex._ 


WALSH’S SWEET TEAS, Giant-flowered. 

VI —Best offer in the Trade. A Collection, 25 select 
varieties, separate, 1,250 seeds, Is., post free. B Col¬ 
lection, 25 Belect varieties, separate, 2,000 seeds, Is. 6d., 
post free. Seed Catalogue and Guide free on application.— 
WALSH, Seedsman, Portadown. 


D AHLIAS.—20,000 good pot roots (tubers) 

now ready for early ahowB, etc. Cactus, Show, Pom- 
pone. Fancy, Single in 600 choice varieties. My selection, 
any class. 2s. 6d. doz. free. Catalogues post free.—EDWARD 
BADMAN, Dahlia Specialist . Haihdmm, Sussex. 


TILLEY’S CHRYSANTHEMUMS, Lilley’s 

Ll Cactus Dahlias, Lilley's Hardy Bulbs for Spring 
Planting.—Novelties in all sections. Illustrated Descriptive 
Catalogue free .—LILLEY, Dept. I, G uernsey._ 

T RELLIS, Creosoted, no painting required. 

Wood and GIass for all purposes; guaranteed quality, 
quick dispatch. Catalogue free.—CHEAP WOOD COY., 
Ill 17. I)cvnnshire-square, London, E.C. 


W M. DUNCAN TUUKERYfc SONS, Ltd., 

Horticultural Builders, 27, Cannon-street, London. 
E.C.; Works, Tottenham.—Conservatories, Winter Gardens, 
Vineries, P» aoh Houses, etc. Catalogue gratis. 


■RUSTIC SUMMER HOUSES and Rustic 

Lb Work of every description.—Boat Houses, Garden 
Seats, Bridges, Vases, Arches, Trellis, Fencing, Verandahs, 
Porches, etc. Send for Illustrated Catalogue, free. — 
BOULTON k PAUL, L td., M anufacturers, Norwich. _ 

"fLOWER TOTS. — FLOWER POTS. — 12 

L 8-in„ 20G in., 50 5-in., 59 4-in., 50 3-in., packed in crate 
(returnable) and put on rail for 7s. 6d. 1908 New Illustrated 

Catalogue Flower Pots, Saucers. Seed-pans, Rhubarb and Sea- 
kale Pots. Vases, etc., post free.—T. PRATT, Pottery, Dudley. 

G enuine garden requisites.— c.-n. 

Fibre, 2s. Gd. large sack ; 10 sacks, 23s.; Yellow Fibrous 
Loam, Pure Leaf-mould, Coarse Sand, 3s. per sack; Bone 
Meal, 10s. 6d. cwt. ; Raffia, 9d. lb ; 4-ft. canes. 1 b. Gd. and2s. 
100. List Free.— W. H ERB ERT & CO . Hop Exchange. S.E. 

X L ALL Insecticides and Fertilisers (Reg. 

and Patented).—Known, recommended, and sold by all 
nurserymen and seedsmen in the United Kingdom. Will 
send prices, all particulars, and address of nearest agent by 
return of post. — G. II. RICHARDS, Manufacturer, 234, 
Borough High-street, London, S.E. 


Harters quite content pea.—T he 

largest and sweetest Marrowfat Pea for exhibition or 
the table._Pri ce la . per pkt.; 3s. Gd. per half pint, post free. 

HARTERS SCARLET EMPEROR RKAN— 

The long, smooth Exhibition Scarlet Runner. Price la. 
Ixt pkt ; 2s. fid. per pint.; 4 b. Cd. per quart, post free. 

HARTERS SUNRISE TOMATO. — First- 

Class Certificate as an Indoor and Outdoor variety. Price 
2s. 6d. and 3s. 6d. per pkt. Illustrated Price List post free. - 
CARTERS, Seedsmen by Appointment to His Majesty the 
King, 237. 238, and 97, High Holborn, London. City Branch : 
53a.Queen Victoria-st., E C (opposite Mansion HousoStation.) 

Cl GW NOW SUTTON’S GREEN WINDSOR 

Broad Bean, per quart. Is. 9d , post free. Sutton's 
Prid e of the Market Cucumber, per packet, Is. poBt free. 


BUTTON'S TENDER & TRUE PARSNIP, 

~ per ounce 9d., post free. Sutton's Earliest of All 
Tomato, per packet Is. 6d., post free.—SUTTON k SONS, 
the K ing’s Seedsmen, Reading. 

TTENT, THE GARDEN OF ENGLAND.— 

GEO. BUNYARD k CO., Ltd., are now booking 
orders for all kinds of Fruit-trees. Cultural and Descrip¬ 
tive List, 6d., post free, and gratis to customers. —Royal 
Nurseri es, Maidstone._ 

TOR PRESENT PLANTING.—50,000 Her- 

L baeeons Plants. New Catalogue with English names 
now ready. Grand Plants offered.—GEORGE BUNYARD 
& CO.. Ltd., Maidstone. 

"OATH'S SELECT SEEDS.—Now Illustrated 

L) Catalogue of Choice Vegetable and Flower Seeds, with 
full cultural notes, is Now Ready, and may be had post 
free on application.—Dept. A., R. H. BATH, Ltd., The 
Floral Farms, Wisbech. 

PATH’S CARNATIONS, PANSIES, 

-O Dahlias, Chrysanthemums, and other Flowers. New 
illustrated catalogue, with full cultural notes of the best 
new and standard varieties, is now ready, and will be Bent 

P ist free on application. A Dept, It. H. BATH, Ltd , The 
loral Farms, Wisbech. 

RELIABLE :FRUIT TREES AND ROSES 

-l-« in great variety at reasonable prices can be obtained 
from the Barnham Nurseries. Ornamental Trees and Shrubs, 
Hardy Perennials. Climbing Plants grown in immense quan¬ 
tities and supplitd at very low rates. Orders of £1 and over 
packed free and carriage paid to any station in England 
for cash with order. Descriptive Catalogues free.—THE 
BARNIIAM NURSERIES, Ltd.. Barrdmm. Kumex. 

C hoice new chrysanthemums.— 

My Catalogue of 900 varieties is Now Ready, and will be 
sent free on application. Some grand Novelties for 1908 are 
included, among others, a pure white Mrs. Barkley. Illus¬ 
trated.—J. W. COLE. Midland-road Nurseries, Peterboro. 


"DOSES ! HOSES !!—The Be&t and Cheapesb 

in the world. 12 acres of Roses to select from Over 
500 best varieties. Great Spring Clearance Sales now on. 
Nursery stock of all descriptions very cheap. Descriptive 
Catalogue, and cheap Lists free. Thousands of testimonials. 
Established 50 years. Plant now.-JAMES WALTERS, 
Rose Grower. Mount Radford, Exeter. 


H.REEN HOUSES.—Sound 

'J Price Lists post free.—A. P. J( 


HARDEN FRAMES—Well made, of good, 

VJ sound, well-seasoned 1^-inch Boards, tongued anil 
grooved, glazed 21-oz. glass, painted 3 coat a, 4 ft. by 3 ft.., 19s.: 
6 ft. by 4 ft., 30s. Lights, 4 ft. by 3 ft., 3s. 3d.; 6 ft. by 4 ft., 
4s. Gd. : glazed and painted. 6s. 6d. and 10s. Ed.—E. B. 
HAW'THO RN & CO.. Lond o n Works Readin g._ 

"PLOWER POTS.—The best and cheapest. 
-L All sizes in stock. Send for prices. — W. WOODS, 
Sutton Pottery, St. H elens, _ 

Durable Work. 
A. P. JOHNSON. Wilmington, 

Huu.__ 

HARDEN NETTINGS, Shadings, Tiffany, 

VJ 8crims.—RIGBY, WAIN WRIGHT, & CO., Manufac¬ 
turers, Neptune Wor ks. M an ches ter. .Sen d for s amples._ 

G ARDEN IRON AND WIRE WORK of 

every description.—Garden Arches, Espaliers, Iron and 
Wire Garden Fencing. Wrought, Iron Tree Guards. Rose 
Screens and Trainers. Iron Garden Stakes, Wood Trellis. 
Illustrated Catalogue, with prices, free on application.— 
BOU I ,T<) N k PA 1 7 L. Ltd . M an n f ar ti ire rs. Norwic h._ 

Q1SHURST COMPOUND is harmless in use ; 

VT its soluble sulrihur, etc., has for 40 years cured blights 
and fungus on plants, and is good for washing unhealthy 
dogs. Giahurstine keeps boots dry in all weathers; they will 
polish. Good for harness Wholesale from — PRICE'S 
1 > A T ENT C A NDI.E Co., Ltd., Lq i id on._ 

G reenhouse paintings glazing— 

“ Vitrolite," far superior to White Lead Paint, at 8s. Cd. 
per gall. " I’laatinc. ' supersedes Putty. 1G«. per cwt. Full 
particulars from — W. CARSON k SONS, Grove WorkB, 
Battersea. Agents throughout; the country. 






GARDEjYIXG illustrated. 


1’EDRUAKt 20, 1908 


THE RELIABLE HOUSE for Hardy Peren- 

nials. Alpine, Rock, and Border Plants. All strong 
clumps and plants, grown on exposed land. Satisfaction 
guaranteed to all.—Aquilegia3, iho well-known ColumbineB, 
is doz. Arabia, white Rock Cress, clumps, 2s. doz. Aubrie- 
tias, the beautiful purple Rock Cress, clumps, 6 varieties, 
2a. 6*L dnz. Auriculas, choice alpine var., 2s doz. Canter¬ 
bury Bells, white, blue, lilac, and rose, la. doz.; 6s. 100. 
Forget-me-nots, blue Perfection. Is. 4d- doz ; 8s. 100. Fox¬ 
gloves, Is. 2d. dcz ; 7s. 100. Geurns, mixed var., 2s. doz. 
Gladiolus, large-flowering bulbs, Is 6d. doz ; 9s. 100. Pansies, 
giant-fluwered var.. Is, doz ; 6s. 100. Perennial Phlox, from 
named var., 2s. 8d. doz. Mrs Sinkins Pinks, 28. doz. Iceland 
Poppies. Is. 6d. doz. Wallflowers, bushy, transplanted 
plants, 3s, 6*1.100; double varieties, f»s. 100. Sweet Rocket 
ami Sweet Williams, Is. do/ ; Cs. 100. All carriage and 
packing free for cash with order Descriptive Catalogue on 
application.-THUS. SUTCLIFFE, F.R.H.S., Lurscough 
Bridge, Lancs. _ 


PRIZE BEGONIAS, Gold Medal Ghent 

Interna' ional —Doubles, 2a , 4s.; special. 10«.; Singles, 
Is. 3d., 2s. 6d.; special, 6s. doz., 6 colours. Gladioli, scarlet*, 
hybrids, 2s.. 4s.. 6s. Gladioli, early. Is. Lily of Valley, 
3s 100. Garden Lilies. 2s 6d. doz. Car. pd. on 5a. orders. Cata- 
lognes fre e,—M ORRIS, Nurseryman, Dept 21, Birming ham. 

■pEUONIAS ! BEGONIAS !!—If you wish to 

-O win pri768, buy ELLISON’S Prize Strain Begonias, which 
have taken prizes regularly for the last 17 years. Singles, Is , 
2s., 3 h., 4a. ; Doubles, Is. fid., 2s. 6d., 4s., 5a dozen. 6 separate 
colours. 44- page Cat g. free.— E LLI SON, 43 . We s t Br omwich. 

"D OCKERY, GROTTO, and EDGING STONE 

direct from the Bargnte Quarries, Godaiming, Surrey. 
Stone dressed for sun-dials and all kinds of garden work. 
Price List on application to—COLLIER, SON, & SPARKES, 
Estate Agents, Godaiming._ 


a NION PLANTS ! ONION PLANTS !!— 

Strong, autumn-sown, hardy plants B st sorts for 
exhibition or general use. Ailsa Craig and Carter's Record 
Onion Plants, Is. 4d. per 100; 200 plants 2s 6d ; 500, 5s. 
Giant Rocca Onion Plants, 100. IQd. ; 200, Is fid. ; 500, 
2s. 9d. Lettuce Plants, Brown Cos, 1(W, 10*1. ; 2C0, Is. fid.; 
500, 2s. 9d. Free by post — CHARLES MORFETT, 
Robertshridge, Sussex. 


ITARDY PERENNIALS.—300 kinds, 2d. 

-EL and 3d. each. Many choice and nire. Lists.— Rev. C. 
MASTER, Carleton, Forehoe, Wymondham, Norfolk. 


n.LADIOLL —Beautiful vars. for exhibition, 

Lf bedding, cutting. My well-known strain of seedlings, 
2s. 3d. doz.; 16s. 100, car. paid. Collections from 3s. to 20s, 
G. brenchleyensis, grand scarlet, 4s. and 6s 100. All for 
cash with order. List now ready. — W. C. BULL, 95, 
Ellington-mad. Ramsgate. 


GERANIUMS. — Well-rooted at 

LI tings, carriage free for cash with order. 


rLLADIOLI 1 GLADIOLI!! — Gandavensis, 

Brenchleyensis, Lemoine's, 2s , 4s. 100. Montbretios, 
I s 6d,lQQ. 44-page Catg. free. — ELLISON , 43. West Bromwich. 

autumn cut- 

Henry Jacoby 

(crimson), F. V. Itaspail (dbl. scarlet 1. Mine. Thibaut (dbl. 
pink), Master Christine and Lady Sheffield (single pinks), 
Flower of Spring (cream edged), Happy Thought (cream 
centre), Golden H. Hieover (bronze), Is. 9*L dozen; 10a 100. 
King of Denmark (dbl. salmon) and ll-nry Jacoby (dbl. 
crimson), 2s. dozen; 12s. 100. Mrs. Pollock, 2s. 3d. dozen. 
Ivy-leaf varieties : Mm a. Crousse (light pink), S. de C. Turner 
(deep pink), Alice Crousse (magenta), and Jeanne d’Arc 
(white). Is. 9d. doz ; 10s. 100. Assorted dozen, 6d. extra. 
—CHARLES FRENCH. Pound Field. Jarvis Brook, Sasser. 

T OBELLA.—Double, grand plants, 3s. 6d. 100. 

■LJ Young's Champion (new), single, large flower, lovely 
blue, with extra large white eye, 4s. 6d. 100. Everyone should 
have these two in their gardens.—YOUNG, The Fruit 
Gardens. Hinson, Bournemouth._ 


flERANIUMS.—Autumn-rooted cuttings.— 
8carlet Vesuvius, Is. 3d. doz.; 7s. 1CM. West Brighton 
Gem (scarlet), Master Christine (pink), Is. 9d. doz. ; 9s. 100. 
Henry Jacoby (dark crimson). Queen of Whites (pure white), 
F. VI Rnspail (semi-double scarlet), and Flower of Spring 
(cream edged), is. 9d. doz.; 10». 100. Post free for cash with 
order.—JAMES BARTON, Northbridge-street, Roberts- 
bridge, Sussex._ 


OT. BRIGIJ) ANEMONE SEED. — Mrs 

Smythc’8 well-known strain, from specially selected 
blooms, with directions. Packets, Is. & 2s. each, free.—GAR- 
D KNE R. Mrs. Smyt he’s. Toharcooran, Cammo ney. Belfast. 

PRIMROSE PLANTS(Woodland), 100, Is.8(1.j 

500, 7s. Bluebells, 100, la. 6d.; 500, 7s. Wood Anemones, 
60, Is. 6d, Cowslips, 100, 2s. Double white Primroses, 12, 
Is 4d. ; double mauve, 12, 2s.; double yellow, 4, Is. Lily of 
Valley, 30. Is. 2d. Free. Perennials, 200 var. Lists free.— 
KATE, Harl ey Pa rk, Call an, Ireland. 


TOMATO PLANTS.— Winter Beauty, H. 

-L Supreme, Up-to-date. Strong, from sterilised soil. Is. fid. 
doz.; 2 doz., 2s. 6d. Golden Euonymus, bushy, grand colour 
4s. doz., fre e. Cash.—STAUNTON, So mers’ Nursery. Malvern' 

B EDDING BEGONIAS.—Much better than 
Geraniums. Scarlet, yellow, orange, pink, salmon. 
white, 7s.. 10s., 15s. 100.—E LLISON, 43, West Bromwich. 

TWTONTBRETIA CROTlOSM,10FLORA, bnl- 
-L'-L liant orange. 2s. 4d. per 100, carriage paid. Plant now.— 
G ARDE XER, Wbitecairn. Wellington College Station . Berk s. 

■pRIZE ROSES as recommended N. RJ37 

-L correctly labelled.— Dozen best ILP.'a. fia. Dozen beat 
T.'s, ILT ’s. 10s Dozen best Buttonhole varieties, 6s. Dozen 
best for town, 5s. Carr. paid. FruitTrees. leailingsorts. Cata- 
log ue f ree. — MORRIS. Nurseryman . De pt. 21, Birmingh am. 

C HRYSANTHEMUMS (Early Flowering).— 

Rooted Plants, 12 distinct varieties. Is. 3d.; 26 in 2' 
varieties, to include Polly., 2a. 6d.; 52 in 2S varieties. 4s 6d , 
KM in 50 varieties, 7s. 6d, free for cash.—J. W. ROBERTS 
fj Co., F lorists. Llanelly 


PJ.ENTIANA VERNA, 12 first-class clumps, 

5a., free. 6 Bee Orchids, 2s. 6d. 12 Osmunda regalis, 

5* —P. B. O’KELLY. Nursi Ties, Ballyvaughan. C’o. Clare. 


OURPLUS PLANTS. — 0 fine Exhibition 

Lj Double Begonias (double as Roses) extra, 6 fine Single 
Begonias (blooms 5 and 6 inches acrossl, 10 richly-coloured 
Coleus, 8 beautiful Fuchsias, 6 tine Geraniums, 6 Fibrous 
Begonia*, 2 Double Petunias, 4 Double ArubiB, and 6 other 
< ireenhouse Plants. 54 strong plants. 4s fid., free. 6 superb 
Gloxinias gratis with order. Half lot, 2 b. 6d., free.— 
HE AD GARDENER. 46. Warwick-road. Banbury. 


"DEANS, yard long.—Wonderful new Run- 

-LJ ners from Japan ; pods grow from 2 to 4 ft. in length, 
very prolific, new seod, with instructions how to grow. 20 
Beaus. Is. ; 40. Is 9d ; post free E. HILL, Cuxham, Wal¬ 
lingford, Berks. 


Google 


TROP.EOLUM SPECIOSUM (Glory of the 

Scotch Highlands, or Flame flower) —True acclimatised 
Chilian species. Most beautiful perennial climber in exist¬ 
ence; lovely delicate foliage, festoons of fiery crimson flowers 
and bright blue berries ; quite hardy, no trouble ; once estab¬ 
lished, improving each year. 6 establish* d roots, Is. fid ; 6, 
extra large. 2s. fid., with cultural instructions, free.—KING, 
3. Aloxandra-road. Leicester.__ 


"P ARE Collection of Rockery and Herbaceous 

-LL Plant*. Advice given on new and old gardens. List* 

free.—HOPKINS, Mere, Shepperton. _ 

D OUBLE PRIMROSES, Blue Primroses, 

Gallisgaskins, Hose-in-ITose, China blue Polyanthus, 
rare Auriculas, Alice Daisies. Lists free HOPKINS. 
Mere, She pp erton. _______ 

HOLDEN PRIVETS, 2s. 6d. do/.. ; 2 doz. tor 
LT 6d.; or 16s. per 100, free for cash, to—TOWNDROW, 
Nurseryman, Malve rn L ink.__ _ 

A merican tree - carnations. — 

Blooms all the year round. Quantities of clean, healthy, 
well-grown plant* in pots. All sizes up to large flowering 
plants always ready for delivery. Note, we arc specialists in 
A T.C.’s, and growers of plants; not sellers of surplus stock. 
All stock tested for merit. Orders of 10*. and upwards 
delivered, carriage and package paid, anywhere in the United 
Kingdom. Our 19.8 Catalogue of Latest Novelties and 
Varieties now ready for distribution. A copy of a treatise 
on the cultivation of the Perpetual-flowering Carnation, by 
C. H Tamlevin. sent free to purchasers of 20s. and upwards, 
or by post, Is. nett, from—YOUNG & CO., American Carna¬ 
tion •Specialists, Hatherley, Cheltenham. Established 1890. 


P ERPETUAL-Bkarino STRAWBERRIES. 

—Plant now to obtain fruit from June to October. St. 
Antoine de Padoue and Oregar, both first-rate varieties, 2s 
per 100, free.— H B. POLLARD. Evesham._ 


ASTERS (perennial), Michaelmas Daisy, or 

-Tx Starwort.—6 choice varieties, 2s. ; 12 choice varieties, 
3s. 6d.; 25 choice varieties, including my new St. Eg win 
(Award of Merit. R.H.S.,’07), 6s. 6d., free. Strong roots.— 
H. B. POLLARD. Evesham. 


P .1S.—12 strong herbaceous varieties, in C 

choice sorts, which bloom during 8 months of the year, 
3s. 9d., free. Send for my Illustrated List of Hardy Plants. 
—H. B. POLLARD, Evesham. _ 


A GARDEN ever in bloom may be yours by 

planting my Hardy Perennial Flower Roots, "illustrated 
List free to all mentioning Gakdeni.no.— H. B. POLLARD, 
F.R.H.S., Evesham. 


HERANIUMS.—H. Jacoby, F. V. Raspail, 

VX Is 9d. per doz. ; 10s per 100. Ivy-leaf, good sorts, Is. 6d. 
per doz ; 10s. 100; all good plants. Free fur cash.—THE 
QUINTO N NU RSERIES, nea r Birming ham 


C HRYSANTHEMUMS, hundreds varieties, 

2d., 3d. each. Violas, Carnations. Dahlias, Phloxes, 
Delphiniums, Hardy Plants, Clematis, all the best varieties. 
Reliable plants, low prices. Catalogues free.—MORRIS, 
Nnrserym an, I >ep t. 21, Birmin g ham. _ 

*]0 GRAND BORDER CARNATIONS,2s.Gd., 

car. free.—Master F. Wall. H. J. Cutbush, Mrs. Eric 
Hambro. Miss A. Campbell, Red braes, Fanny Wilcox, Snow¬ 
drop, Alice Ayres, Dundas Scarlet, Raby Castle. Crimson 
Clove, Rose Queen. Send for List. — J. LANGFORD, 
N urseries, Withington, Manchester. _ 


"M"EVV GERANIUMS, in splendid shades, for 

J-v greenhouse, well rooted, named, single and double, 
3s. doz..free. —GEOROE FULLER. Robertshridge, Sussex. 


Q.ERANIUMS, well-rooted autumn cuttings, 
VT carriage paid for cash with order—Scarlet -Vesuvius, 
Is. 3d. dnz. ; 7s. 100. H. Jacoby (crimson), Ninhetos (white), 
Flower of Spring (cream edged), Lady Sheffield (sgle. pink), 
Salmon Vesuvius (single). Is. 9d. doz.; 10*. 100. King of 
Denmark (doublesalmon) 2s. do/., 12s. 100. Ivy-leaf var.: Souv. 
de C. Turner (deep pink), Muie. Crousse (light pink). Is 9d. 
doz.; 10s. 100. Cactus varieties, 8, 3s.—GEORGE FULLER, 
Robertshridge, StiBsex._ 


1 C SPLENDID Varieties Exhibition Sw’eet 
■Lv/ Peas. 25 to 30 seeds, each separate for Is., free. 
Romollo Piazanni, Queen Alexandra, Henry Eckford, 
Paradise, Black Knight. Dorothy Eckford, Hon. Mrs. 
Kenyon, Lady G. Hamilton, King Edward VII., Gladys 
Unwin, Duke of Westminster, Helen Pierce, Mis* Wilimott, 
1). R. Williamson, Lord Rosebery, with gratis packet 
Gypsophila elegans. Above Coll., 60 to 70 seeds each, 2s free 
List free.—T’SBA NKH, H az el Hou se, Sn ainton, 8.O.Y orks. 

TOR FEBRUARY PLANTING.—DuckeFs 

L Prize Pansies, &c., 12 Giants, 12 Odiera, 12 Bugnots, 
12 Masterpiece, 12 Madame Perret, 12 Ne-Plus-Ultra, lot, 
free. 2s.: also our noted collection of Hardy Herbaceous 
plants, 12 doz.. free. 2s. 6d., contains 12 Lupins, 12 Black 
Pansies, 12 Odiera, 12 Show, 12 mixed Wallflowers, 12 Pyre- 
thrums, 12 Linum,' 6 mixed Sunflowers, 6 mixed Daisies, 
6 Tunica, 6 Pinks, 6 Gypsophila, 6 Montbretia, 6 Canterbury 
Bells, 6 Polyanthus, 6 Oriental Poppy, 6 Carnations. Ellam’s 
Early Cabbage Plants and Red Pickling, picked plants, Is. 
100 free ; Onion Plants, AilBaCraig, Is. 100free; Giant Rocca, 
200 free. Is. 6d.; Lettuce Cos and Cabbage 100, 9d., 200 Is. 6d. 
free, all autumn sown.—J. DUCKER, Florist* Il&xey, 
Doncaster. 


"PERNS from DEVONSHIRE, CORNWALL, 

-l- and SOMERSET — Instruction book for making rockery, 
planting, etc., with each 5s. order. 10 named var., 7s. per 
100; 30, parcel post* 2s. 3d.; 50, large, 3s 6d., post free. 
Catalogue 2d. Estab. 50 years. GILL, Victoria Fernery, 
Lynton, R.S.O., North Devon. 

■DECAL AND SHOW PELARGONIUMS, 

-»-w hest sort* from pots, true to name, 3s. per doz., free.— 
LEWIS & BON . Nu r scry inen. M alvern. _ 

TJAHLIA POT ROOTS.—This set 13 Cactus 

■LJ vars, 3s. 3d, carr. paid: Iranhoe, Good Hope. Mrs. 
Gaskill, 1906, Cockatoo, Harbour Light, J. B. Riding. Juliet, 
Ella Kraemer, H. F. Robertson, Mrs. Ed. Mawley, Pearl, 
Phineaa, W. E. Dickson. Pompones, all the best vars., 
2s. 6<1. per dozen. Catalogue free.—H. WOOLMAN, 
Shirley , nr, Birmingham.__ 


fl H R YS A NT HE MUMS, rooted plants, 190(i 

^ vars , 3s ; 1905 vars., 2s.; older vars., Is. 6*1. per dozen. 
Purchasers' selection, for Exhibition, Decoration, Single and 
Early flowering. Catalogue free — H. WOOLMAN, Shirley, 
nr. Birmingham. 


[TARNATIONS & 1TCOTEES. —Catalogue 

free. Strong plants for bonier or pot culture, in 3-inch 
pots, 6s. and 7s. fid. per doz., carr. forward; not in pots. 5s , 
6s , and 7 a fid. per doz , carr. paid. My selection. Cash. 
Seed, Is. Gd and 2s. 6*1. per packet. Auriculas, a few choice 
varieties to offer.—'T. LORD, Carnation Grower, Todmorden. 


J. J. THOOLEN, 

Plant and Bulb Grower. 

The Export Nurseries, 
HEEMSTEDE, HAARLEM, HOLLAND 

Has the honour to announce that his Illustrated Price 

List, Spring; 1908. of Bulbs and Plants, in 

English, at lowest prices, will be sent post free on applica¬ 
tion. No charges for packing. Orders of 108. and above 
entirely free to destination in England. Scotland, and De¬ 
land. First quality guaranteed. Established 1884. 

Some sorts of Bulbs noted out of Prloe List for 8prlng; 
Planting. 25 at prloe per 160 rate. 


Per1U0 
Anemones, single, 

mixed .1/2 

Anemone The Bride 1/2 
Anemone .Japan, white 4 6 
Anemone, Japan,rose 46 
Anemone, Japan, red 10- 
Herb Lily, in mixture 6 - 
Tuberous Begonias. 

single, mixed, 1st Bizo 10/- 

Tube rous Begonias. 

double, mixed, 1st size 15/- 
DahlUlS, egle., mixed 6 - 
Dahli •», dble.. mixed 10 - 
Dahllas. Cactus, 
mixed. 126 

Ferrarias (Tiger 

Flower), mixed .. .. 4‘- 

Funklas, in fine mix¬ 
ture . &'« 

Glad iolus Brench- 
ieyensls. scarlet . 3- 

Gladiolus The B. ide 3 - 
Gladiolus. Lemaine, 

mixed . 3/« 

Gladiolus ganda- 
vensis, mixed.. .. 3 - 

Gladiolus Surprise . 2 - 

Hemerooallis (Day 
Lily), mixed. 


8 - 


IVr 100 

Hyacinth, can di- 
cons. white .. .. 4- 

Irls. Ja]«an. mixed .. 3 6 

Iris gcrmanlca, 

(Flag Iris), mixed .. 3- 

Irls sibirica mixed 3 - 
Lilium tigrinum 

(Tiger Lily). 8/- 

Lllium land folium 

roseum .18- 

Lillum lanoifolium 

rubrum.16- 

Ranunculus, French 

mixed . 1- 

Montbretia*. mixed 1/- 
Calla alba ma^u* 
lata, with white 
spotted leaves ., .. 6 / - 

Oxalls, mixed .. .. -/• 

Poppies oricn tails, 
mixed .16- 

Phlox deoussata. 

mixed . 8 - 

Phlox decussata, 

white . 16 -'- 

Potontilla. mixed ..19- 
Trollius. mixed .. 10 - 
Lilium auratum. _ 
large .40- 



NOW READY. 
OUR 

| POPULAR GARDEN GUIDE 

for 1908. 

Post free on application. 

3ootoh grown Potatoes^ 

Midlothian Early, 

Duke of York, 

Epicure A many 
other*. 

Each 
14 


SECOND AND CHEAPER EDITION. 

JUST PUBLISHED. 

F*cap 8vo cloth, 438 pag s, 113 illustration*. 4*. Gd. net. 
THE 

HORTICULTURAL NOTEBOOK 

A MANUAL OF 

Practical Rules. Data, and Tables 

for the use of Students, Gardeners, Nurserymen, and 

others. 

By J. C NEW8HAM, F.R.H.S., 

Headmaster Hampshire C.C. Agricultural and 
Horticultural School. 

London: CROSBY LOCKWOOD A GON, 

7. Stationers' Hall court,E.C.; and 121 a, Victoria-street, 8.W. 

WALLFLOWERS ! WALLFLOWERS ! !— 

» * Ye old favourites. Why buy little seedlings when you 
can get large bushy dwarf-grown jilants full of buds at the 
same price Now is the time to plant for grand show this 
spring. Blood Red, Golden King. Cranford Beauty, Eastern 

S uren, Ruby Queen, Fairy Queen, Primrose Dame, 
arbinger, Vulcan, Dresden, Golden Tom Thumb, or all 
colours mixed, 50. Is. fid, ; 100, 2a fid. ; 200, 4s. 6*1.; 500. 11s. ; 
Becond size Is 6d. per 100. Extra large selected bushy 
plants, 50, 2s ; 100, 3s. 6d Double German Wallflower*, 
mixed. 25, Is. 3d.; 50, 2s. ; 100, 3s. 6d. All car. paid for cosh 
with order. Money returned if not satisfactory. Full lists 
poxt free.—S. G. LEIGH, Bro ughton. Hants.__ 


TIOUBLE PRIMROSES.— White, Is. 

Lilac, 2a., Sulphur, 2s., A. Dunollin, 3s. 6d., Clc 


3d., 

. . cioth or 

Gold, 5s., Paddy, 5s., Sanguines. 5s , Amaranthina, 6s., Blue 
Primroses, 3s. 6*1., Double Polyanthus Curiosity, 2s. 6*1., 
Pantaloon, 2s . Single White. 3s. per doz.; set of 12, 3s. 3d., 
free Iceland Poppies, 50, 1 b. 3d. Canterbury Bella, 
strong plants. 9d. d<»z. Lists Alpines and Herbaceous.— 
HUMPHREYS. F R.H S.,Bungalow. Sandhurst, Camberlpy. 


"DEGORIAS A SPECIALTY'.—Large, erect- 

«D flowering singles, mixed, 25 for 3s. ; 100, lls.; to colour, 
2s. 6d. doz.; 100,12s. Double, mixed. 2s. 6d. doz, ; 100. 12* . 
for ca*h. List free.—JOHN WELLS, Begonia Nursery, 
Ryarsh. Mail i ng, Kent.____ 

PLANT NOW !—Tropa?olum speciosum, 12 

dormant roots. Is. 3d.; Alstrcemeria (Peruvian Lily), 
orange and brown. 12 root*. Is. 3d. ; Soarlet Montbretia, 200 
bulhs. 1 a 6*1. All free. HAHDY. Derrock. Co. Antrim. 


riLIFF, the “ROSE KING,” for beautiful 

Roses. Every description—Standard, Bush, Climbing, 
H.P.’s, Tea*. &c. Best quality, newest varieties Hundreda 
Testimonials. Catalogue (500 varieties) fiee. Choice Roses, 
mixed colours, 12, 3s.; 25, 5s. 6d.; 50, 10s. : 100, 19*. 6*L 
3 strong Ramblers (3 colours), 2a.— CLIFF, Sterhford. 

HLOXINIAS — GLOXINIAS! Begonias, 

VJ Arums, Tigridias, Garden Lilies, from Is. dozen. 44 page 
Catalogue free. —ELLISON. 43. West Bromwich_ 


CJTRAWBERRY PLANTS FOR SALE. 

List free. 

W. BENTLEY, Malpas, Cheshire. 


D 
















Psbruahy 29, 1903 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Ill 



J. IIen. stock, Esq., East Bank-road, Sheffield, writes, Dec. 5th. 
1907: " I received the Hose Trees well packed in good condition. A 
friend of mine, who is head gardener to one of our M.lVs, says they 
are fine strong trees and should do well.” 

A. J. Cox, Esq., Lowther-road, Bournemouth, writes. Dec. 7th, 
1907: "The Hoses arrived in excellent condiCon, and I am much 
pleasedatthe well-grown bushesyou haveeent, for which many thanks." 



THINK FOR ONE MOMENT THE ADVANTAGES MY SYSTEM OFFERS YOU! 


You are not asked to take 6s., ios , or ten pounds' worth to obtain the Plants and Roses carriage paid. 

what the amount of your order Is—15d., 15s., or £15, It Is delivered at your door 


Ko matter 


no matter where you live. Ho 2s. or 3s. carriage to pay when the parcel arrives, /gain, boxes free, packing free, 
and very often extra Roses or Plants are put In free, and every box packed by an expert. 

THINK THIS OVER BEFORE ORDERING, and see Page iii. last week. 

A a M _ 4 % ■ a ■ A ■ a ■ ■ pa crammed full of vastly interesting matter to all lovers of choice flowers. It fully describes (more fully than any other 

UnCni ft I I* II A I II1 1 1 I L Catalogue I know of) ail the beat Hardy Perennials and Herbaceous Plants, a magnificent variety of Hardy Climbers glorious 

UrLUlnL |j/m I MLUU U L Lilies; a'so a choico rolcctiou of (ireenhonse and Window Plants. Free to all who intend to give an order. There ar 
w ^ many rare gems and neglected beauties in this Catalogue not to be obtained elsewhere. 

MRS. GARDNER, F.R.H.S., PRIORY HOUSE, STROTJD. 


Business Established Upwards 29 Years. 

LETTS & HARDING, F.R.H.S. 

SPECIAL OFFER OF 

PLANTS, ROSES, SHRUBS. 

IW“ To bs satisfied after buying is 
the main thing. YOU MAY we only say YOU MAY 
buy cheaper. Even if you do, the extra quality we Bend will 
more than vepay yen. IF YOU are pleased with our 
goods, tell your friends. IF NOT, tell us. 

Any Lots divided to suit purchasers. 

PLANT3! PLANTS! Achillea The Pearl, 12. Is. Antirrhi¬ 
nums. 36. Is. Aquilegia, 25, Is. Arabia alpina, 50, Is. Arabia, 
double. 12, Is. Aubrietia, 50, Is. Arum Lilies, fi, Is.6d. Auri¬ 
culas, 12. la. 3d. Brompton Stocks, double, 50, Is. Canter¬ 
bury Bells, white, blue, rose, double, single, or mixed, 36, Is. 
Canterbury Bells, Cup and Saucer, 36, 1 b. Chelone, 20, Is. 
Coreopsis, grand. 25. Is. Carnation Margarita, 20, la. ; dblo, 
scarlet or white, 12, la.; finest mixed. 15, Is. Chrysanthemum 
maximum, 12, la Cyclamens, very fine, 6, Is. Daisies, red, 
white, or mixed, 50, Is. Delphiniums, 12, Is. Foxgloves, 25, 
1 b. Gaillardias, 12, Is. Geums, 15, Is. Gypsophila, 15, Is. 
Honesty, 20, Is. Hollyhocks, enormous plants, double or sin¬ 
gle, 12, Is. Lily of Valley. 25, Is Lupins, 20, Is. Lychnis,20, Is. 
Phlox, 3d. each. Primulasinensis, 12, Is, Polyanthus, 25, Is. 
Pea, Everlasting, 20, Is. Indian Pinks, 15, Is. Pinks Mrs. 
Sinkins, 15, Is.; Pinks, Her Majesty. 12, Is. Pansies 1 Pansies ! 
Our mammoth mixed, 50, Is.; peacock, yellow, white, 50, Is. 
Pyrethrums, 20, Is. Poppy Oriental, 15, la.; Iceland 
Poppies, scarlet, white, yellow, 20, Is.; grand mixed, 25. Is. 
Sweet Williams, 25, Is. Bilene compacta, 50, Is. Red-hot 
Pokers, flowering plants, 6, Is. Rockets, 50, Is. Wall¬ 
flowers, Covent Garden, Vulcan, Yellow, Eastern Queen, 
Ruby Gem, 100, Is. Double German Wallflowers, 50, 
Is. Cabbage, Masterpiece, 100, Is.; Ellam s. Imperial, 
Flower of Spring, Mein’s Red, 100, 9d. Onions, Exhi¬ 
bition, 100, Is. 6d.; Ailsa Craig. Excelsior, 100, Is.; 
Rocca and Red Tripoli, 100, 9d. Lettuce, Cabbage and 
Cos. 100,9d. Cauliflower, 100, Is. Acacias, 3d. each. ROSES I 
ROSES! all English-grown, II.P. Dwarfs, 6d. each ; 5s. 6d. 
dozen; Tea and H. Tea, 9d. each; Standards, line, Is. 6d. 
each; named varieties, will do our best to please you. Climb¬ 
ing Roses, 9d. and Is. each; crimson, white, pink, and yellow 
Ramblers, Carmine Pillar, Mar6chal Niel, Gloire de Dijon, 
W. A Richardson, Reine M. Henrietta, LIdeal, White 
Mar&hal Niel. Lady Gay, Dorothy Perkins, eta. 
Ampelopsis Veitchii, 6d. each ; very fine plants, Is. each. 
Bignonia, 6d. each. Lilacs, purple or white, 3d. and 6d. 
each. Sweet Briers, 2d. and 3d. each. Lavenders, 3d. each. 
Laburnums, 3-year old, 4d. each; 6 to 8 ft., 9d. and Is. each. 
Mountain Ash, 6 to 10ft., 6<L and Is. each. Tree of Heaven, 
4<L and 6d. each. 8weet Bays, 6d. and Is. each. Allspice 
Trees, 6d. each. Deutzias, 4<L each. Golden Elder, 4d. 
each. Guelder Roses, 6d. and 9cl. each. Honeysuckles, 4d. 
each. Ivy (Irish), 3d. each. Ivy, Gold and Silver, 6d. and 
9d. each. Magnolia, 6d. each. Pyracantha, 6d. each. 
Wistarias, 6d. and Is. each. Mock Orange, 4d. each. Pyms 
japonica, 6d. each. Venetian Sumach, 6d. each. Flowering 
Currants. 6d. each. Maiden-hair Fern Trees, 4d. each. 
Snowberry Trees. 3d. each. Tulip Trees, 4d. each. Double 
Pink or Scarlet Thoms, 8 to 10 ft., Is. 6d. each. Rosemary, 
3d. each. Jasmines, white or yellow, 4d. each. Spirrea 
Trees, 4d. each. Rhododendrons, 6d. and 9d. each. 
Evergreen Shrubs, 6d. each, 5 b. dozen. Clematis, white or 
blue, 3d. each; yellow, 4d. each. Clemalia montana, 6d. and 
9d. each. Clematis Jackmani. also white, light blue, etc., 
etc., grand plants. Is. each. AlmondB, 1b. each. Arbutus, 
3d. and 6d. each. Berberis. 3d. and 6d. each. Broom, white 
and yellow, 3d. each. Holly, green, 6d. each. Laurels, 
green, 3d., 4d. and 6d. each. Laurels, variegated, Ed. each. 
Weigelas, 6d. each. YewB, 3d. and 6d each. American 
Blackberries, 4d. each. Raspberry Canes. Is. dozen. Straw¬ 
berry Plants, 28. 6d. 100. Gooseberries, 4iL each; 3s. 6.1. 
dozen. Currants (Red, Black. White). 3d each; 2s. 6<L 
dozen. Thousands of others. India-rubber Plants, fine, 6d., 
9d., and Is. each. Azalea indica. fine plants, la, Is. 3d., and 
Is. 6d. each. Azalea mollis, full of buds, 6d., 9d., and Is. 
each. Hydrangeas. 3d. and 6d. each. 

All orders packed free. Orders for plants value 5s. carriage 
paid. Orders for plants and trees value 10 h , where plants 
amount to half the value, carriage paid. Trees under 10s. 
value free on rail. Catalogues post free. 

LETTS & HARDING, F.R.H.S., 

The Nurseries, 62, West Haddon, RUGBY. 


SI- FOR YOUR GREENHOUSE. 5/- 

2 India-rubber plants, 2 Azaleas. 2 Camellian, 2 Acacias, 
2 Hydrangeas, 2 Agapanthus, 2 Deutzias, 4 Sellizanthus, 
2 African Lilies. 2 Tea Roses. 2 Lilies, 6 Petunias, 2 Aspara¬ 
gus Ferns, 4 Bolanums, 2 A»um Lily, 2 Coba?a, 6 Primulas, 
4 Begonias, 4 Heliotrope, 2 Grevillea, 4 Aralios, 6 Carnations, 
2 Cyclamens, 2 Fuchsias, 6 Marguerites, 4 Nicotians, 
4 Umbrella Palms. 4 Salvias, 4 Hanging Plants for baskets, 
2 Ferns, 2 Palms, 6 Smilax, 2 Genistas, 4 Primula obconica, 
4 Campanulas, 2 Bridal Wreaths, 4 Streptocarpua, 4 Pani- 
eum. A real bargain. All named, and carriage paid, 5s. 
Half Quantity, 2s. 9d., carriagjypaid —LETTS k HdRDING, 
The Nurseries, 62, West Haddon, Ritflfe 1 



l*“ FACTS to be remembered 

when buying SEEDS. We sell SEEDS THAT 

GROW. We know they grow; wo test them all. We 
PAY CARRIAGE to your door. Our Catalogue, with 
particulars of FREE GIFT, will be sent free. We have 

Twenty-nine Years’ Reputation for 

SEEDS THAT GROW. 

6/- THE POPULAR COLLECTION. 5/- 

Six pints of Peas for succession, including Harding's First and 
Best, Harding's Queen, Harding's Main Crop Marrow, 1 pint 
of Broad Beans, 1 pint of Runner Beans, J pint Dwarf Beans, 
1 packet of Harding's Prize-taker Runner Beans; 1 oz. each 
of the following—Spring Onion, Winter Onion, Parsnip, 
Carrot, Parsley, Cress, Mustard, Turnip, Beet, Radish; also 
large packets of the following—Cauliflower. Broccoli, Savoy, 
B. Sprouts, Cabbage, Kale. Lettuce, Celery, Marrow, Leek. 
Cucumber. Tomato, Spinach, Endive, Herbs. Given gratis, 
a trial packet of Harding’s Exhibition Pea. 

Above Collection, carriage paid, 5s. 6 d,; Half quantity, 3s. 
With whole or half collection we present you with our 
" Practical Illustrated Gardening Book for the Cottage, 
Villa, and Mansion." 

1/6 THE ECLIPSE COLLECTION. 1/6 

One ounce each Harding's Favourite Onion, Carrot, Cross, 
Parsnip. Turnip; $ oz. each Masterpiece Cabbage, Radish, 
Savoy; large packet each of Broccoli, Sprouts, Kale, Marrow, 
Lettuce, Parsley, and 6 packets Flower Seeds, post free, Is. 6*1. 
For 6 d. extra, 1 packet each Cauliflower, Leek. Mustard, 
Beet, Cucumber; and with every 2s parcel we will send a 
packet of Harding's Exhibition Pea (pods 7 to 8 inches long). 
The two lots, post free, 2s. 

1,500 SWEET PEAS, 1/- 

Our Speciality—1,500 Seeds in 15 choice-named varieties, 
100 seeds in a packet; acknowledged by experts to be the 
best varieties in 1907-Mrs. Walter Wright, Duke of West¬ 
minster, King Edward VII., Navy Blue. Jeannie Gordon, 
Dorothy Eckford, Princess of Wales, Dainty, Hon. Mis. 
Kenyon, John Ingman, Black Knight, Lady G. Hamilton, 
Gladys Unwin, Helen Lowes, Helen Peirce; and given 
gratis a packet of the New Pale Blue, Frank Dolby. 
Post free, Is. 3d. 

NINEPENCE! ONLY! NINEPENCEI 

20 Packets of Genuine Flower Seeds, all different and 
named, such as Stocks, Asters, Poppy, Mignonette.Gaillardia, 
Zinnia, Lobelia, Chrysanthemum, Calliopsis, Candytuft, 
&c.. &c.; also Given Gratis, a packet of Harding's New Prize- 
taker Aster. The whole 21 Packets free, 10 Stamps. 

LETTS & HARDING, F.R.H.S., 

Seedsmen and Nurserymen, 

(Dept. I). WEST HADDON, RUGBY. 


4/6 ROSES, ROSES. 4/6 

12 Lovely English-grown Bush Roses. Send names of 
varieties you would like, and as near os possible they shall be 
sent. Or leave selection to us, and we will send 12 lovely 
varieties, carriage paid. 4s. 6 d.—LETTS & HARDING, The 
Nurseries, 62, West Haddon, Rugby._ 


2/6 


SHOW CARNATIONS. 


2/6 


12 splendid Show Carnations, in 12 varieties, all named> 
post free, 2s. 9d-LETTS & HARDING, F.R.H.S., The 
Nurseries. 62. West Haddon, Rugby. _ 

ROSES. ROSES. 

rPHE BEST AND CHEAPEST IN THE 

-L WORLD.—12 Acres of Roses to select from. Great 
Spring Clearance Sales. All carriage paid for cash. Estb. 
50 years. 20 best selected Standard Roses, 21s. 20 choice 

Half-Sul. Roses, £1. CO very best dwarf Perpetual or Bush 
Roses, 21a Or half the above Collections 12 grand Teas or 
Hybrid Teas, 7«. 12 best Dwarf Perpetual Roses, 5s. 12 finest 
Climbing Roses, 6 s. 6 d. 6 best assorted Rambler Roses, 

3s. 6 d. 6 Crimson Ramblers, 3s. 6 best Moss Roses, 2s. 9d. 

6 crimson or pink Monthly Roses, 3s. 6 beet yellow Roses, 
3s. 50 dwarf Bush Roses, beat sorts, but, unnamed, good 
stuff, 11s.; 100, £1. 20 well assorted Std. and Half-Std. 

Roses, unnamed, 12s. 12 hardy Evergreen Running Roses, 
for rockeries, rough situations, etc., 4s. All beat Fruit-trees, 
Shrubs, Climbing and Herbaceous Plants, very cheap. 
Descriptive Catalogue and cheap Lists free. Thousands of 
Testimonials. "How to Grow Roses." book, post free. 

4d. Plant now. — JAMES WALTERS, Rose 
Growe r. Mt. Radfo rd. E x ete r._ 


ROSES. — Cheap Offer to clear overstock. 

Carriage paid on all orders of the value of 4s. 6 d. and over 

STANDARDS. DWARFS. CLIMBERS. 

Standard T.'s and H.T.'s, 18s. dozen. 

Standard H P.'a, 12s. dozen. Dwarf H.P.'s, 4s. 6 <L dozen. 

Only well-known and proved sorts sent. 
Collection of 12 different Climbing Roses for arches, pillars, 
or pergolas, for 9a. 

W. H. ROGERS & SON, Ltd., 

Red Lodge Nursery, SOUTHAMPTON. 


NEW SEEDLING MONTBRETIAS. 

Prometheus. King Edmund, Lady Hamilton, Lord 
Nelson. All have been certificated by the R.H.S. and 
provincial societies. 

A writer in the Press, speaking of the Novelties of the past 
year, describes them as " The finest introductions of the year." 
Full particulars and prices on application. 


WALLACE’S LILIES 

have been awarded in recent years Seven Gold 
Medals by the Royal Horticultural Society. 

Unsurpassed for Quality and Condition. 

Our Spring Catalogue contains a full Descriptive List of 
these, of which we have a splendid variety in stock; also 

GLADIOLI, BEGONIAS, TIGRIDIAS, 
Cypriped turns (hardy), etc.; 
HARDY PLANTS—Alpine & Herbaceous 
in all sections. 

All specially dealt with. 


R. WALLACE & CO., 

Kilnfield Gardens, Colchester. 

Seeds of Annual Flowers 
For All Purposes. 

13 Packets, post free, for Is. 


Collection B.—13 Packets Best Sweet Peas, our selection, 
100 seeds in each packet, Is., post free. 

Collection C.—13 oz. Packets Best Sweet Peas, 3s., post tree. 
Collection G.—13 Id. Packets Beat Dwarf Annuals for Beds 
and Borders, Is., post free. 

Collection H.—13 Id. Packets Best Annuals for Cut 
Flowers, Is., post free. 

Collection L—13 Id. Packets Sweetly-scented Annuals, Is., 
post free. ** 

Collection^.—13 Id. Packets Ornamental-leaved Annuals, 
Is., pOBt free. 

Collectron-Ka.—13 Id. Packets Annual Climbing Plant, Is., 
post free.- — 

Collection L.—26 id. Packets of Best Annuals for all pur¬ 
posed, Is., post free. 

Bees, Ltd., 6, Wapping Buildings, Liverpool. 


Se.ed* of Rare and Ohoice 
WATtPY PLANTS, &c. 

THOMPSON~& MORGAN 

beg to inform those interested in the abavaiglat their 
NEW SEEB CATALOGUE 
is published, and may be had free on application. 
Particulars of an Extra Special Cheap Offer of Burplua 
Alpine and Rock Plants are given' on pago 3. 

Hardy Plant Specialists, IPSWICH. 

“‘■PVERY MAN’S BOOK OF GARDESf 

■LJ DIFFICULTIES,’ by W, F. KowleB, is a most useful 
work. The object of Mr. Rowles is to arrange the diffk-ultie# 
of the amateur gaidcrier under popular headings and to dis¬ 
pose of them. The rich store of information litre displayed 
is arranged in such a manner th*t there is no amateur 
gardener who may not consult the book with ease, con¬ 
fidence, and advantage. There is added a glossary of garden 
terms. The volume contains 200 illustrations." 

London : HOLDER St STOUGHTON, and all Booksellers. 
Price 3a. 6 d. net. _ 


p IC\ per 100.—New, strong, well-made Seed & 
0/ U Potato Boxes. 14J by 84 by af; ends, ft in.; sides, i in. 
Other JizoB to order.-.1. WI i.copk, Steam Saw Mills, Pontefract 


:ha 




GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. February 29, 1908 



CHEAP OFFER 


CHEAP OFFER OF STRONC PLANTS. — Could. 

6 Phlox, splendid vara, to name.10 

8 Phlox, splendid vara., unnamed.. ” 1 0 

8 Pentsteinons pulcheliuni, rosy-purple spikes .. ..10 

6 Pentstemon alpinua, beautiful deep blue .. ..10 

8 Potentilla multiflora. crimson and yellow 1 0 

12 Papaver pilosum, buff-yellow, grand variety .. .! 1 0 

12 Papover orientale, grand scarlet Poppy .. ..10 

12 Pyrethums, single, all colours, mixed.10 

8 Pyrethrum uliginosum, grand white Marguerite ..10 
25 Ranunculus, finest dble. English, all colours .. ..13 

6 Rose of Sharon (Hypericum) yellow-flowered ..10 
6 Rudbeckia Newmanii, grand for cutting 10 

6 Rudbeckia laciniata Goldpn Glow .10 

6 Rudbeckia purpurea, purplish-red Sunflower 1 0 

12 Saponaria oeymoides. pink, for rockery or edging .10 
4 Statice latifolia, blue flowers, grand for dry ing 1 0 

4 Statice incana nana, white flowers, as abo»e.. .. 10 

6 Sidaleea Candida, grand for cutting .10 

6 Solidago (Aaron's Rod), remarkably showy ..10 

fi Shasta Daisy, new Giant White Chrysanth. max. ..10 
6 Sunflower Koleil d’Or, superior to Cactus Dahlia 10 

12 Sunflower, Bingle, in 3 best rare., named .10 

4 Scabious caucasica, blue, grand for cutting .. ..10 

6 Stokesia cyanca, dwarf, large blue flowers .. ..10 

6 Solomon's Seal, grand tubers .10 

12 Sweet Rocket, purple or white..10 

12 8axifraga(London Pride).10 

24 Saxifraga for rockery, in 6 varieties, named .. ..2 0 

8 Scotch Thistle, large purple flowers.10 

8 Scutellaria lupulina, blue and white spikes .. ..10 

12 Sedum glaucum, bluish foliage for edging .. ..10 

12 Silene Fortune!, very showy, pink-flowered .. ..10 

12 Silene Schafue, pink-flowered, grand for rockery ..10 

6 Sidaleea rosea, very showy dwarf spikes .. ..10 

6 Southernwood, fragrant foliage.10 

18 Stachys lanata, white foliage, dwarf edging .. .. 10 


STRONG PLANTS 


THAT WILL CIVE SATISFACTION, 

And will Flower well this Season 


Carefully Packed. Carriage Paid. 

Purchasers may select smaller quantities ol 
these plants at same rate, hut Orders under 
2s., 4d. extra. 

63. worth for 53.; 12s. 6d. for 108. 

Cash with order. 

20,000 TESTIMONIALS, AND OVER 50 YEARS’ 
EXPERIENCE. 

I d 

6 Geraniums, new Zonale. dble., large-fld., named ..13 
G Geraniums, new Zonale. sgle , large-fld., named ..13 
6 Geraniums, new Cactus-Ad. dble., named ..16 

6 Asparagus Sprengeri, grand for cutting .. ..10 

8 Smllax, climber, grand for cutting .10 

6 Primula Forbesii, very showy and free, continuous ..10 
8 Primula obconica, always in bloom, var. clrs. .. 10 
6 Primula verticillata, Abyssinian Primrose .. ..10 

5 Fuchsias, largest known Phenomenal, double blue, 
ditto white, Sunset, golden foliage, and two other 

geuis . 16 

4 Dracsena australis, grand plants for table .. .10 

2 Passion-flowers, blue, 9d.; ditto, purple .. ..09 


A lovely Orange DAISY from South Africa 
Dimorphotheca aurantlaca, a very 
rare and beautiful annual from is'amaqua- 
land, having Daisy like flowers of a glossy 
salmon-orange colour, with black central 
ring, flowering in ilie garden for months 
in succession; height, Jft. Per pkt,, 2,6. 

A CLORIOUS SNAPDRAGON. 
Antirrhinum “Sunset," the most beau¬ 
tiful of all Snapdragons, producing a most 
brilliant effect in the garden; flowers of 
the moBt delightful art shades of orange 
and fiery orange - scarlet; height, 1ft. 
Per pkt.. 26. 

A WONDERFUL DOUBLE 0AISY (BELLIS) 
Barr’s Giant White, flowers measuring 
2in. across, very double and snowy white, 
dwarf and compact; grand for edgings. 
Per pkt., 1/-. 

GIANT CAPE PRIMROSES. 

Barr’s New Giant Streptocarpl, with 
very largo trumpet-shaped flowers of clear 
delicate shades of rose and lavender to 
whiio. Seed sown now produce flowering 
plants this summer for greenhouse deco¬ 
ration. Per pkt, 2/6. 

A LOVELY NEW SHADE IN CHIKESE 
PRIMROSES. 

Primula sinensis, Barr's New Salmon 
Beauty, quite a new break ; flowers 
large and of beautiful form, of a )o*ely 
soft rose shading to a glowing salmon-red ; 
foliage richgreen tinged bronze; an exqui¬ 
site flower; height, Jft. Per pkt,, 3,6 A 5,6. 

Seed Catalogue free. 


12 Sweet Williams, Auricula-eyed, large-flowered 

12 Sweet Williams, Auricula-eyed, dwarf. 

6 Thalictrum aquilegifolium glaucum. 

6 Tusailago fragrana (Winter Heliotrope) 

12 Thyme, silver variegated foliage, grand edging 
12 Thyme. Savory, Rosemary, Marjoram, Hyssop, Tarra 

gon, Mint, Sage . 

6 Tradescantia virginica, blue-flowered, continuous . 
8 Veronica gentianoides variegata, grand for edging . 
6 Veronica Bidwellii. dwarf, white, very free 
6 Veronica sricata alba, dwarf and free flowering 
12 Veronica prostrata, brilliant blue, dwarf 
6 Veronica repens, dwarf, deep blue for rockery 
6 Verbascum phoeniccum, various colours .. . 

6 Verbascum Weidenr.mnianum, coloured spikes 

12 Violas, in 4 distinct colours . 

12 Violas, extra choice mixed. 

12 Wallflowers, in 3 colours, 6d. ; 100 ditto 
12 Wallflowers, in 12 grand vars., double. 


SELECT HARDY PERENNIALS, 


Our Specialty. 

8 Achillea The Pearl, grand for cutting .. .10 

6 Achillea roBea or terica, yellow, silky foliage.. 10 

18 ArabiB, dble. white, very tine for cut bloom .. ..10 

18 Arabia, single white, for rockery or edging .. ..10 

18 A'ubrietia purpurea, for rockery or edging ..10 

4 Anemone Whirlwind, semi-dble., very frefe 10 

25 Anemone roots, finest English, all clrs. .. .16 

4 Anemone jap, (II. Joubert), pure white .10 

4 Anchusa italica, splendid blue, cont blooming .10 
2 AnchuBH. Dropmore var. an improved form of above 1 0 
12 Aquilegi a, in 4 best vars. to name, grand roots .. 13 
12 Armeria (Thrift), white or pink .. .. 10 

6 Arenaria montana, charming for rockery or edging . 1 0 

12 Auriculas, grand varieties.10 

12 ABter (Mich. Daisy), choicest vars. to name .. ..20 
12 Alyssum argenteum, Yellow or Suxatile .. ..10 

8 Anthemis tinctoria. bright yellow, for cutting .. 10 

6 Bocconia cordata (Plume Poppy).10 

6 Campanula carpatica, blue or white .10 

4 Campanula pyramidalis. blue or white, large plants 1 0 
6 Campanula glomerata, deep violet, cluster fid ..10 

6 Campanula, large dble. white flowers.10 

4 Campanula Pfltzerii (new), large double blue .. 10 
12 Campion, rose or white, grand plants.10 

15 Canterbury Belle, double rose, white, or blue 1 0 

16 Canterbury Bells, single rose, white, or blue .. .. 10 

6 Catananche, blue or white (everlasting) .. 10 

8 Commelina ccelestiB, sky-blue, very showy .. ..10 
6 Chelone barbata, coral-red spikes .10 

12 Caiystegia. dble. or sgle, pink, rapid climber .. .. 10 

8 Coreopsis grandiflora. grand for cutting ..10 

6 Centaurea rutifolia, silvery foliage, purple flr. ..10 

6 Calendrina umbel lata, dark crimson, dwarf .. 10 

6 Celsia pontica, bronzy-yellow, long racemes .. ..10 

25 Cerostium tomentosum (Miller's Dust), edging .. 10 
12 Carnat ion Margaret, Vienna, or Grenadin 10 

8 Cistus (Rock Rose), very handsome colours .. 10 

4 Clematis Vitabla (Traveller's Joy) .. 1 .0 

8 Crucianella stylosa, pink-flowered, rockery ..10 

6 Dactylis glomerata (dwarf Ribbon Grass) ..10 

12 Delphiniums, beautiful hybrids, dble, and Bingle .. 16 

12 Digitalis (Foxglove), Gloxmia-fld., var. clrs. 13 

8 Diacocephalum argavense, deep violet flrs.10 

4 Echinops ritro, large blue globular heads 10 

6 Eryngium planum, light blue, everlasting .10 


S. ROGERS & SONS, F.R.H.S. 


Very Best Offer In the Trade. 

NEW SEED, ENCLISH-CR0WN, HAND-PICKED. 
COMPARE PRICES BEFORE BUYING. 

Purchasers will find our very low prices for Sweet Peas, of 
which we make a speciality, will enable them to obtain just 

what they require at a much more economi¬ 
cal rate than the usually advertised Collections of so many 
seeds 

Id. per pkt.; | ox., 2d ; 1 or.., about 350 seeds, 3d. Carriage 
paid on orders of Is. upwards. 

Agnes Johnstone, sal-pink Miss Willmott, orange-pink 
Aurora, striped Mrs. Eckford. primrose 

Black Knight, maroon Princess of Wales, mve., stpd 

Coccinoa. scarlet Queen Victoria, yellow 

lady G. Hamilton, lavender Sadie Burpee, white 
Mars, fiery-crimson Scarlet Gem, dazzling scarlet 

For all other varieties, see List, POST FREE. 

Also "Our Champion Mixturb ” of the finest and 
largest-flowered vars., A oz., 2d. : 1 oz.., 3d. ; 4 oz., Ski ; 1 lb . 
Is. 4<1 ; 1 lb., 2s. 6d. 


& Son s 

VEGETABLE & FLOWER SEEDS 
BULBS & PLANTS ™ 
SPRING PLANTING. 


GUIDE TO GARDEN AND GREENHOUSE. 


Brimful of useful information, cultural directions, valu¬ 
able hints, etc., enabling you to purchase everything of the 
very highest quality at half the usual prices. Indispensable 
to everybody interested in gardening, and includes ail the 
tjost varieties of Chrysanthemums, Dahlias, Violas, etc. 
Gratis and post free. 


12 Gladioli, splendid varieties, large corms .. l o 

8 OypBophila paniculata alba, Fern saver, invaluable 1 0 
12 Oypsopliila repens rosea, dwarf-fld., for edging ..10 
6 Gyp90phila cerastioidcs, very dwarf, white and red . 1 0 
8 Geum. double scarlet, grand for cutting .. 10 

6 Helenium Bolanderii or Bigelowii 10 

6 Helenium grandicephalum, yellow-fld., very Lee 10 
12 Hollyhocks, dble. grand vara., mixed.16 


DHQCC 

n U O L 0.CHSSMI Rosrs. 

m Succeed Everywhere. 

For masses of Fibrous Roots and Hardy Constitution they 
are unequalled. Rose Erperta pronounce them the finest 
ever seen. All are on Brier. 

SPECIAL LOW SPRING OFFER TO 
CLEAR GROUND 

UPON MENTIONING THIS PAPER 
Boule de Neige, Countess of Rosebery. Das. of Fife, Duke 
of Edinburgh, Duke Fife. E. Leve t, F. K. Druschki. General 
Jacqueminot, Grand Mogul, H. Keller, J. Dickson, I^dy H 
Stewart, Le Havre, Marg. Dickson, Merv. de Lyon. P. of 
Waltham, Prince Arthur. Rev. A. Cheales, R. Duncan, 
Rosslyn, Sir G. Wnlaeley, Salamander, R. B. Gaton, Mrs S 
Crawford, Mad. V. Venlier, and others. Any 12, 4s. 6d ; 
the 25 for 9s. 

13 Hybrid Perpetnals, for exhibition, 4s. 6d.; 50 for lCs. 

13 Hybrid Teas, for exhibition, 7b. ; 50 for 27a. 

13 Teas, for exhibition or garden, 7s. 

13 Hardy Climbers (Ayrshire). 4s 6d.; 50 for IGs. 

13 Climbing Polyantha, for pillars, 7s.; 50 for 27s. 

13 Superb Climbing Roses, for walls. 7s.; 59 fur 27s. 

13 Wichuraiona Roses, for banks, etc., 6a. ; 50 for 22s. M. 
13 Lovely Moss Roses, 4s. 6d.; 50 for 16s. 

13 China Roses, grand for beds. 5s.; 50 for 18s. 

13 Frau Karl Druschki, 6s ; 50 for 22s. 6d. 

Our Selection, named, 6 at half prices, carriage paid on 12 
or more. 

For full List of names and descriptions of best 600 Roses 

aoa nnr PAQV CTTTTV1Z 


Large Erect 
Flowering Begonias 

.Selected colours .12s.-14fl. per ll 

All colours, mixed. 10s. per ll 


Double Begonias. 

15s. per 100, selected colours, or all colours mixed. 


6 Lupinus arboreus Snow Queen .. 

6 Lupinus arboreus, mixed varieties 
6 Linaria dalmatica. grand for cutting 


Gladiolus Gandavensis 

Splendid mixture.5s. 6d. per 100. 


12 Llnum perenne, blue or white. 

12 Linum flarum. beautiful yellow. 

8 Lychnis chalcedonies, scarlet, grand for cutting 


12 Lychnis Sieboldii, large-flowered, white 
12 Lychnis Flos Jovis, very free 
12 Marvel of Peru, various colours 
8 Mimulus cardinalis (Scarlet Musk), hardy 


FULL DETAILED LIST will be sent post 
free on application to their Offices at OVERVEEN, 
HAARLEM, HOLLAND; or to their General 
Agents— 

Mertens & Co., 

3, CROSS LANE, LONDON, E.C. 


6 Monarda, scented Bergamot, scarlet or white 

18 Montbretias. in Bix best named vars. 

100 Onions, in 4 best exhibition vars. 

8 Orobns lathyroides, beautiful blue-flowered 
25 Pansies Trimardeau, blue, white, or yellow 

12 Polyanthus, gold-laced, best varieties. 

12 Primroses, Dean's Hybrids, large showy trusses 

8 Peas, everlasting, red or white. 

4 Peas, everlasting, Pink Beauty (new). 

8 Physalis Franchettii (Giant Chinese Lantern) 

12 Pinks, Mrs. Sinkins, Her Majesty, Horn ere, lge. plants 
(Continued on next erf mn.) 


The HORTICULTURAL COMPANY 

Sweet Pea and Rose Specialists, 
(No. 2) OHEADUE-HULME, Cheshire, 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 









































FitBituAiit 29 1903 


GA R I) ENWG III mm A TED. 



R?SHITHeC? 

.WORCESTER. 


NURSERYMEN Mt 
SEED MERCHANTS 


ROSES! ROSES!! ROSES!!! 


FRUIT 


80 Acres of Saleable 
Trees. 


ROSES 


Hundreds of Thou¬ 
sands Open - Ground 
or Pot. 


SHRUBS 
& TREES 


(91 Acres) in immense 
variety. A superb 
Collection of Herba¬ 
ceous Plants. Four 
Acres of Glass. 
Clematis and other 
climbers in pots. 


SEEDS 
& BULBS 


The best procurable. 
Lieta Free. 


LARGE GENERAL CATALOGUE 

of Nursery Stock, profusely illustrated and full of valu¬ 
able inf urination, free on receipt of 3d. Please mention 

paper. -RICHARD SMITH A C0. f Ltd., WORCESTER. 


1 


T ONDON MARKET GARDENS. Showing 

J-J the manner in which flowers, fruit and vegetables are 
trown for market. By C. W. Shaw. Price la. ; post free, 
Is. 2d. — PUBLISHER, 17, Fumival -etre et, London, P.X3. 
ftrmps not taken in payment. 


Google 1 


Home Qrotcn, Best Quality, and at Reasonable Prices. 

CARRIAGE PAID. 

satisfaction guaranteed. 

25 Grand Hybrid Roses: Mn. John Lain?, Prince 
U. de Rohan. Mrs. R. (1. S. Crawfoid, Capt Hayuard, 
Puke of Teek, Pride of Waltham, H. Keller, A. 
Colonib, Jeannie Dickson, Lord Macaulay; Clio, Louis Van 
Houtte, 8. M. ltodocanachi. Milton, Mrs. F. W. Band ford, 
Rev. A. Chealea, Mrs. Geo. Dickson, Ulster, F. K.Druschkii, 
Senateur Vaiaae, Duke of Connaught, Jubilee, Xarier 
On bn, Star of Waltham. Victor Hugo. Any (i for 3s.. 
12 for 5s 6d.; 25 for 10 b. 6d, ; 32s. per luO. 

12 Magnificent Tea Roses: Mine. La in bard, Lady 
M. Corry, Soilv. de 8. A Prince, Mambn Cochet. Sour. 
d’Elise, Devoniensis. Celine Forestier, Beuuiy of Europe. 
Eugenie Verdier, Marquise db Vi vena. Mme. Willeruior, 
Marochal Niel. li for 4 h. ; 12 for 7 b 
12 Splendid Hybrid Tea Koscs: Mme. Ravary. 

ilenBie Brown, Mrs W J Grant, Gross an TeplitZ, Clone 
Lyonnaise, La France, Joh&na Selma. Mildred Giant, 
Marjorie, Mamie, Admiral Dewey, Robert Scott. 6 for 
4a,; 12 for 7s. 

12 Superb Climbing Roses, with long growth?, 3 to 

6 ft. : Deronieii&is, Ards Hover, Bouquet d'Or. Mme. 
Berard. KSve d'Or, Cl C. Testout, Reine Olga de Wuriern- 
burg, Mad. I. Periero, Cheshunt Hybrid. Reme M. 
Henrietta, C.loire de Dijon. Mme. A.‘larriere. Any 6 for 
5 b. 6d. ; 12 for 10a. 

12 New Rambler Roses: Turner's Crimson, Lady Gay, 
Euphrosyue, Thalia, Wallflower, Rubin, Queen Alexandra, 
Dorothy Perkins, Pauls Carmine Pillar, White Pet, 
Electro. The Lion. Any 6 for 5a,; 12 for 8s 6d. 

6 New Tea Roses : Le Progres, Betty Berkeley, Betty, 
Hon. Ina Bingham. Mra. G. W. Kershaw, Mrs. J. Bate- 
inan, 8s. 

6 Moss Roses: Laneii, Crested Pink, Striped, Ac., 3s. 

6 Japanese RoseB: Kugosa, Mme. G. Bnmnt, 4o., 3s. 

C Austrian Briers. 4 splendid var., 3s. 6d. 

6 China or Monthly Roses, 3a.; 12 for 5a. Gd. 

12 Best Border Carnations, to name, 4s. 

Descriptive fc\TAT.or»u* of Rosrs, 350 var , iv 
Thousands of Fine Tref.m; Fruit Trees, Shrubs. 
Herbaceous Plants, etc., Post Free. 

J. DERRICK, NURSERIES, PDRTISHEAD 

ROSES. ROSES. 

Special OfTef of Surplus Stock at nominal prices for our 
selection of sorts only. 

Dwarf H P.’s, 3-doz.; Dwarf Teas, 4 6 doz.; Climbers, 5/-do*. 

Packing and Carriage. L- dozen extra. 

Purchaser s selection at very reduced prices. Catalogues free. 

THE DEVON ROSERY AND FRUIT FARM, Ltd., 

DEVON ROSERY, TORQUAY. 

PROTECT YOUR GARDENS. — Netting, 

-L small mesh, 25 sq. yards for 1 b. Sent any width. Aa 
supplied by ua to Royal Gardens. Cash returned if not 
approved of. Carriage paid on orders over 5s. Commoner 
Netting. 40 sq. yards for 1 b.—H. J.GA8SON, Networks, Rye. 


SPECIALITIES*. NOVELTIES 


CARTERS SUNRISE TOMATO. 

24 6 34 per packet. 

CARTERS SCARLET EMPEROR 
RUNNER BEAN, 

1'per packer 2&per pirvT 4&per quart 

CARTERS QUITE CONTENT 
MARROWFAT PEA. 
l^per packet 3fcper \ pint. 

CARTERS LARGE FLOWEREb 
SWEET PEAS. 

AU THE FINEST UP-TO-DATE VARIETIES 
• SEPARATE OR MIXED • 

3 <? 6 <? 6 V- per packer 

ALL POST FREE 


KfiJXjrr TRC 


237-8, HIGH HOLBORN, 
LONDON.w.c. 


i/ER! 


-LINC 


-CHA 












































vl 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATE!). 


February 2D, 1008 


MOST EASTERLY NURSERY IN ENGLAND 


Noted for Hardy Stuff. Bound to Thrive. 

FOREST TREES, FRUIT TREES, SHRUBS, ROSES, PLANTS, BULBS, SEEDS, in any quantity or variety. State 
wants. Low Estimates per return. HEDGING A SPECIALITY. Booklet describing 30 varieties, free. Write 
for Catalogue of Cheap Offers. 


TOMATO PRODIGIOSU3. —Popular favourite, un¬ 
equalled for earlineas, heavy cropping, flavour, and disease- 
resisting properties Numerous testimonials and repeat 
onlrrs from last years delighted customers. December 
sown, grown in temperate heat, twice transplanted from 
boxes. 2a- do*, post free, with full cultural directions. 
Seed packets. Is each. The fruit of thin superb dwarf, 
short-jointed variety is smooth and of medium sire, borne 
on largo trusses, it finishes with a point and has no unsightly 
"eye. 

RASPBERRY NEW PROLIFIC. Distinct now 
variety, bright red canes, makes 6 ft. one season. Marvel¬ 
lously vigorous growth, heavy cropper, large bright scarlet 
fruit., grand luscious flavour. Young canes, with massive, 
fibrous roots. In. 0*1 do*., 6s. 100 ; extra stout canes, 2a. fid. 
doz , 10s 100. carriage paid. Everyone should try this grand 
variety, satisfaction guaranteed. 

RHUBARB ST. MARTIN. Far the earliest red, 
best for f i cing, strung, 2-year ciumps, 2s. do*., 10s. Ilk), 
extra stout clumps, 3s do*.. 15a ICO. carriage forward. 

STRAWBERRY ST. JOSEPH. Perpetual bear¬ 
ing variety, introduced from Fran>-e. Kipe fmit ran I* 
plucked continually from Juno to October, of finest flavour. 
A great acquisition, should Lie in every garden 0*1. dozen, 
4a fid 100; extra stout, Is 6d dozen, 7s, fid. 109. 

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES. Snow Queen a 
new white skinned variety, far surpassing the old red lia 
flavour is superb, and will prove a pleasing surpass l peck, 
Is 9*1 ; peck, 2s 9d. 

ASPARAGUS CONOVERS COLOSSAL. A 

grand variety of very robust growth. Makes line heads and 
is a great market favourite 1-ypar, 2s fid 100; 2 year, 3* fid 
100. 3 year, 5s 6d 100; extra stout, transplanted, 8s fid 100 

CABBAGE EARLY RAINHAM & ELLAM'S 

DWARF Two of the best and earliest varieties, un¬ 
equalled for market work They soon make close, compact 
hearts, and are of a hardy, vigorous constitution, la. 100; 
Is fid 200. Red Cabbage, la 100. 

BEGONIAS (Tuberous). I am again offering my 
famous Maxima gig&ntea strain, in first-size tubers only 
(average circumference, 3|-4| inches). Tubers from this 
strain obtained many prizes for my customers last year 
Many single blooms measured 5 6 inches across ! Yellows, 
whites, pinks, scarlets, eonper. Hinglcs. 2s. 3d doren; 
12s fid 100 Doubles, 3s 3d. dozen; 17a fid 100 

GLOXINIAS.—Choice strain, same size, 2s. 6d dozen. 
All post free, with full cultural directions. 

Please note that small-sized tubers cannot possibly give 
the amount of bloom which will bo obtained from the large 
lu!>era I offer. 

LOVELY HARDY CLIMBERS.-Jasmine (yel 
low or white). Honeysuckle (gold leaf or sweet Belgian), 
Virginian Creeper (large leaf), Silver-leaf Iry. Cotoneaster 
(red-1 •erried). Clematis vitalha. Clematis montana (white), 
Perns )a|H>nica (pink), Forsythia (yellow), Passion-flower, 
all 6.1. earh Hops, fi for la Wistaria (purple), I'd. and 
Is fi«l Perennial Peas, G pink. Is.; white, 3*1. each. Nastur¬ 
tium (tulierous-rooted), fi bulbs. Is. Bell bind, double or 
single pink, 12 roots. Is Clematis .lackmanii, favourite free- 
flowering, large purple, in pots, 4 ft staked. Is. fid. each. 
Ampelopsis Veitchii, small Iraf Virginia, sticks like paint, 
in pots, 4d , 9*1. ; extra stout, Is. fid. Leaves turning red. 

CARNATIONS. All strong layers Old Clove, 
dark red. clove-soenied. sweetest of all. Mrs. Nicholson, 
immense size, lovely shell-pink, very robu«t. free blooming, 
sweet scented Mrs. Muir, fine pure white variety, good 


WALLFLOWERS! WALLFLOWERS!! Blood 

Red, Golden Gem. Purple Emperor, or choice mixed. Strong 
plants. Is. 3d. 100; 50J for 5a ; 1,000, 9s. Stout, selected. 
2s. 100, 

GLADIOLI SCHIZOSTYLIS. brilliant scarlet 
winter-blooming variety. — .Starts flowering in November; 
very useful for cutting. 4d. each ; 2c 6*1. dozen. Mont* 
br:tia. red and orange, blooms like miniature Gladioli, 
borne on long, wiry stalks They last wc'l in water, and are 
invaluable for cutting. They grow any where, and increase 
rapidly. Height 2 ft. 61. dozen ; 3s. G*L 100. 


LOVELY HARDY LILIES. 

Lillnm tlffrinum (Tiger Lily), deep orange, black 
spot#, very handsome and unique. 3d. each ; 2s. 6*1. dozen. 

Lilium Fnnkta, blue Lily, with wide. Palm-like leaves; 
strikingly handsome; rapidly increases. 4*1. each ; 3s. 6*1 doz. 

Lilium Acapantlius. blue, very effective in tubs and 
large pots, often bearing 20 .vpikes of lovely pale blue flowers. 
In pot a, 9d. each. 

Tritoma uvarla (Torch Lily or " Rod-hot Poker ") 
Most showy of our bonier plants Flowera consist of long 
stall,. 4 ft high, with pyramid of red and orange bloom, 
6-9 inches long. No garden is complete without it. 4d each ; 
3s. 6*1. dozen. 

Lilium Yellow Day, very hardy and showy species, 
beautifully scented bloom# 4d. each; 3s. dozen. 

LILY OF THE VALLEY -What more charming 
than this little dwarf Lily, with its delicately scented pure 
white blooms and pale green foliage? It thrive# anywhere 
ami soon increases. 2s. fid. 100; 500 for 7s. 6*1 , 1.0U0 for 
12#. Gd. _ 

ROSES! ROSES!! ROSES!!! 

Evergreen Climbing Cluster Roses. Dorothy PcrkiDB. 
shell pink Cluster, extremely rapid growth, unequalled for 
cutting and bouquet 1 * La Guirlande. glorious pure 
white Cluster, most profuse bloomer. M .iltiflora. large 
pink blooms, borne in heavy clusters, most hardy and 
vigorous. 2 ft., 6*1., 4s dozen ; 3 ft , 9*1., fis, dozen ; 4 ft., 1# 

Crimson Rambler, scarlet Cluster; AclaiJ. yellow 
Cluster 6*L and la. each 

La France, lovely Tea scented pink : Gen. Jacque* 
mlnot. brilliant red . Camille do Rohan, darkest rod, 
almost black; RugOSa ltoscs, large single, bearing 
enormous red berries; China Monthly Roses, Moss, 
pink and while. All 6*1 and 9*1. each. 

Collection fi assort*.1 Climbing, 6 Bush, 3# C*1 

Choice Bush Roses, 3a. fid. dozen; 50 for 10#.; 
100, 17# fid. 


form and free in growth. 4d each, 3# dozen, 
Germania, a superb yellow, 6d. each. 

GLADIOLI BRENCHLEYENSIS. 

blooming scarlet variety — Immense spikes 
nothing so showy or more useful for cutting 
bulbs, 31 H inches round, ‘.kl. dozen; 5s. 100 

—-ide. 


for 5a. 


The Brid 


the giant- 
of fcloorn ; 
Immense 

Gladioli 

pure white, or rubra, red, Gd. dozen; 3s. 100. 


GREENHOUSE COLLECTION for cold green¬ 
house Make# a superb spring and summer show. 2 Aral ins, 
2 Begonias (Fibrmi#), fi Begonia# (Tuberous), 4 Ferns, 
6 Fuchsias. 2 Genistas, and 2 Heliotrope; 2 etu-h of blue, 
yellow, and white Marguerites; 3 Gloxinias, 2 Primula#, 
2 Passion-flower, fi Tradescantia, C Nepeta, 2 Salvia, 2 Simlax, 
12 assorted Geraniums, 2 Spinca, 2 Nicotian a, 4 Gladioli. 
The whole lot of these strong Bulbs and Plants for 5s. 9d. ; 
half quantity, 3s. Gd. 

PANSIES. 100,0001 A grand giant - blooming prize 
strain, unequalled for quality and variety of colour. Strong 
plants. 2# 100; 500 for 7s. fid ; 1,000 12s. G*l. ; extra trans¬ 
planted, la. dozen, 4s. C*l. 100. 

HYBRID WILLOWS, with black, scarlet, and yellow 
hark, and lovely fluffy blooms in npring They will grow 
anywhere rapidly, and, mixed with evergreens, afford a grand 
contrast. They can be used effectively for forming orna¬ 
mental arches. 11-2 ft., 2s dozen, fi# 100; 2-3 ft., 3a fid. 
dozen, 10a. 100; 3 4 ft., 5s. dozen. 


PLANTATIONS QUICKLY. CHEAPLY 
MADE. — Larch trees, 2 ft.. 2a. 6*1. down. 9a. ICO; 
3 ft., 4a dozen, 15a. 1CIJ. Spruce Firs. lift.. 2 a. fid. 
dozen. 10s. 100 Scotch Firs, 2 ft.. 3*. dozen, 12a fid 100. 
Poplars, silver leaf, rapid growth, very handsome, 
P. Lombardy (pyramidal growth), 5 ft. is. fid. dozen, 
15a. 100; 7 ft, 9* dozen, 25s. lw. 5a. orders carriage paid. 

BIRCH, ASH, ALDER. CHESTNUT. ELM. 
HAZEL. OAK. SYCAMORE. MAPLE, 34 ft. 

4s, bd. dozen, 15a. 100; 5-6ft. 2iM 100. QuiCkthorn. 1 ft . 
2r 6.L 100. 15s 1,00 J; 1) ft.. 5s, 100 Beech. 1| ft., 6a. ICO. 
Mvrohclla Plum, 14 ft.. 5a 100.30*. l.ooo. 

LAUREL ROTUNDIFOLIA.—The hardiest of all. 
always lovely green, very fast in growth. 1 ft., 2a dozen. 8s. 
100; 1J ft. 3s dozen. 15s. 100 ; 2 ft. 4a dozen. 30s. 1U0; 3 ft 
(bushy). 6a. dozen; 4 ft, Is each, 9s dozen; 5 ft Is fid. 
each. 15a. dozen 

OVALIFOLIUM PRIVET.—Large leaf, fast grow¬ 
ing variety, unequalled for screen# and fences. 1 ft, 5s. ICC. 
30#. 1,000 ; 2 ft . Mis 100; 3 ft. 15s. 10); 4 ft 20*. 100: extra 
transplanted, heavy, 4 ft, 6s dozen; 5 ft, 9s. dozen ; fi it, 
15s. dozen 

HARDY PERENNIALS.-Violas. Golden Gem. ir 

Blue Perfection. Is dozen. 5s 100 (stout transplanted) Fox¬ 
gloves, Sweet Williams, Micliuclioas Daisies, Sunflowers, 
Arabia, Canterbury Bells, Lupins, Doronicums. Hollyhocks 
Irises Iceland Poppies, Polyanthus, Pyreihiums. Rocket, 
Hcahinus, Mimulus, Honesty. Gaillardias, Gjrpsophila, Corn¬ 
flowers Calllopsis Columbines, Ox-eyed Daisy, all strong 
plants. 8d. d ozen ; 3s. order* free. 

TAMARIX GALLICA. a most useful shrub for 
making a fence or growing as a specimen. The foliage ia 
very light and feathery, like Asparagus It bean pretty, 
shell-pink blooms. When kept (‘lipped, Taniarix makes one 
of the most beautiful of deciduous fences. It thrives in poor, 
sandy soil, and its growth ia rapid. l|-2ft.. 2s. 6.L dozen, 
8# fid. 100; 2-3 ft . 3s. Cd. dozen, 12s. Gd. 100; 34 ft.,5* dozen. 
17# fid 100; 5 ft . 91. each, fis dozen. 

LOMBARDY POPLAR, the pyramidal growing 
variety, a# used on the Dutch bulb farms for forming wind¬ 
breaks. This variety grows 3-4 ft. a year, and soon attains 
50 to 60 ft. Its growth ia erect, the branches never hang 
over. For a wind-break nr blind to hide ugly outlooks it is 
unequalled. 4-5 ft., 5s. dozen, 15s. 100; 5-6 ft., 6s dozen, 20a. 
100; 6 7 ft. 9#. dozen. 39s. 100; 7-8 ft., 15s. dozen; 8-9ft, 20s 
dozen; 9-10ft,30*. dozen. 

GENISTA FRAG BANS (Cytisus). a lovely green¬ 
house shrub, which bears in great profusion long spikes of 
delicate yellow, scented blooms It continues in flower for 
months, and is equally successful in the house or greenhouse. 
Nothing looks no pretty when in flower ; it feents the whole 
house. Very s'rong plants, full of buds, from large 5-inoh pots 
wait mould, Is each; smaller, from 31-inch pots, fid. each, 
5s dozen. 

HYDRANGEA HORTENSIS, a very useful and 

favourite subject for greenhouse or room. It bean very large 
heads of bloom, pink-tinted, 9 inches across It lasts in 
bloom for months. Very stout, established plants, from large 
pots with mould. Is. each ; smaller 6d. each, 5s dozen. 

IRISH IVY. tho large-leaf variety, unequalled for 
rapidly hiding ugly walls or for covering tranks and bare 
places round trees where nothing else will grow. It keeps its 
lovely deep green colour all the year round, and is always 
refreshing to the eye. 1 ft, 9*1. dozen, 5a. 100; 2 ft., 2s. dozen, 
8a 100; 3 ft.. 3s. dozen. 12*. 6*L 100; extra stout, twice irons 
planted, 3 4 ft,9d each, fis dozen. 

AIL ANTHUS G LAN DU LOS A. or Tree of Heaven, 
a little known tree, un<l one which ihould be in ereij garden, 
a# it is perfectly hardy, and will grow anywhere. Growth is 
very rapid, and the leaves have a Fern-like apiiearance. often 
2 ft in length When once established this noble tree give* 
quite a tropical appearance to the garden. 3 ft., la 6dL ; 
‘ift., 9*1. 0a dozen ; 4 ft,.. 2s. 

FORGET-ME-NOT GRANDIFLORA RO- 

BUSTA. Magnificent variety, grows 1 foot in height, 

flowers are of a deepest blue No '** 
be planted. 2s. 100, 7s. fid. 500. 


3 lovelier spring flower can 


3s. 6d. and larger orders carriage paid, unless otherwise stated. 


ERNEST CAYE, OULTON BROAD NURSERIES, LOWESTOFT. 


THE ROSE. 

THE PEOPLE’S FLOWER. 

THE NATIONAL FLOWER. 

ALL STRONG AND HOME-GROWN PLANTS. 
NO CONTINENTAL WEAKLINGS. 


Notion the following Wonderful Bargain: 

COLLECTION “O.” 

The finest selection of 25 Garden Roses in dwarf 
plants possible for 13 6 (with Acme labels, 16--). carnage 
and packing free for cash with order. Details on application. 

350,000 FRUIT TREES 

OF ALL KINDS TO SELECT FROM. 

A GRAND 8TOCK OF 

8HRUBS A ORNAMENTAL TREES. 
HERBACEOUS PLANTS great variety. 

Bend for Catalogue No. 16, giving full particular!, post free 
on application to— 

Messrs. H. MERRYWEATHER&SONS, Ltd 

Dept. 6. The Nurseries. 

80UTHWELL, NOTTS._ 

— Advertisements Intended 
should reach ns bofore F 

Digitizes tv 


ded for next Issue 
Febrhary 28. 

C.G gle 


1/6. GARDEN SEEDS. 1/6. 

NEW. GENUINE, and WELL TESTED. 

AN Receipt of Postal Order for la. 6J. or 

Lr 20 stamps, wo will Bend, post free, 1 or. each of 
IMPERIAL CABBAGE, HOLLOW-CROWN PARSNIP, 
MASTERPIECE ON ION (Grand Exhibition and Main Crop 
Variety), xml Selected CARROT; A ox. each of Savoy. 
Radish, Early Turnip, and 2 Packets of Broccoli (early and 
late): 1 packet each of Lettuce, Marrow, Cucumber; 6 
Packets Choice Flower Seeds. 

Also for Is extra, 1 Packet each Mustard. Cress, Beet. 
Pickling Cabbage, Borecole or Brussels Sprouts, Leek, 
Cauliflower, Golden Ball Turnip; and with every 2s. fid. 
Parcel we will send Two Grand Novelties—a packet of 
Prizewinner Marrowfat Peas (a remarkable Variety, pods 5 
to 6 inches long, packed with Enormous Peas), and a Packet 
of Prizewinner Runner Beans, Splendid Variety with extra¬ 
ordinary pods, sometimes attaining 14 inches in length. 

The above Parcels of Finest Quality Seeds for P.O. 2s. 6*1. 
or 32 stamps. 

GROVES -Sc S OKT, 

8EED MERCHANTS. 

PIDDLETRENTHIDE. DORCHESTER. 


APPLES. 

STANDARDS. In best sorts, 4 and 5 years, 51 to 6 feet 
stems, at 15*'- per dozeu. 
Ditto ditto extra strong 18 - M 

BUSH, splendid trees, 3 and 4 years .. 12- ,, 

i Ditto extra strong. 15 - „ 

WRITE FOR CATALOGUE OF CENERAL STOCK. 


R. TUCKER & SONS, 

The Nurseries, Farlngdon, Berks. 


ROSES. 


8TANDARD8, BUSH, 
CLIMBERS. 


TATIRE NAILS, mixed, 8a. (id. per cwt.; 28 lb., 

’ » 2s. 3d. Screws, mixed, 23s. per cwt.; 28 lb., 7s. 6d. 

Wire, cut and wrought Nails, .Staples, Tacks, etc — C W. 
11AY LKB, Midland Nail Wor ks.25 to2 8 Kea-st . Birming ham. 

P ROTECT YOUK OARDENS. — Ciaiden 

Netting of good strong, small uiesh, oiled and dressed, 
100 yds by 1 yd , 4s.; by 2 yds, 8s. ; by 3 yds wide, 12s ; and 
so on to any width or lengt h supplied. Carriage paid on all 
ordera over 5s - H .1 GARSON, Net Works, Bye. 


8trong. healthy trees, sample dox. dwarf ILP.'s, 5a. 
Ditto, Teas and H.T. a, 9a. 

Ditto, Standards or Half-Standard H.P.'s, 12a. 

In choicest variety. Or send for Descriptive Priced List of 
all classes of Roees, Fruit Trees, and Hardy Plants for the 
garden, with Cultural Hints and Testimonials. 

FRANK E. D. HARNETT. 

Rose Grower, Bearatod. Maidstone. 

The latest day for i-acelvlng Advertisements 
Is FRIDAY, 9 a. mu 


UNI'S 


JNOIS AT 


URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


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Fkiihuauy 29 , 1908 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


1,000 BUTTERFLY SWEET PEAS 1/- 

yES ; the Now Butterfly Sweet Pea in all 
-L the new shades so much worn last year, and will lie worn 
more this. Send at once. 1,000 splendid seeds, post free, 
la. 3d.—G, F. LETTS, F.H.H 3., 37. Hadleigh, Suffolk. 

POTATOES GIVEN AWAY! 

Also 9 Pkts. Flower Seeds. 1 Fkt. Sweet Peas. 

21/- WORTH FOR 4/6 

1 QUART G.F.L. FIRST EARLY PEA, 1 

-*• pint G.F.L. Wonder Pea, 1 pint of G.F.L. Talk of Table 
Pea, 1 pint Peerless Marrowfat Pea (nee Catalogue for heights, 
one sent with all orders), half-pint Letts' Sword Broad Bran, 
1 pint Letts' Prizetaker Runner Bean, half-pint Dwarf 
Kidney Bean, one ounce each of the following kinds: Spring 
Onion, Parsnip, Carrot, Parsley, Cress, Mustard, Beetroot, 
Turnip, Spinach, Radish, Leeks; also largo packet of each of 
the following, each packet containing about 2,000 seeds, so 
mark, you will hare some plants to sell your neighbour: 
Broccoli, B. 8prouts, Savoy, Kale, Cabbage, Cauliflower, 
Lettuce, Celery; also packet Marrow. Cucumber, Tomato, 
and 1 lb. of my New Potato, I Come First, also 9 packets of 
Flower Seeds, and 1 packet of SWEET Peas. Now, the 
whole of the above, all named, carefully packed, and free on 
mil, 4s. 6d. Half-quantity, including Potatoes and Flower 
Seeds, 2s. 6d., free on rail. Always give your rail address; 
they are too heavy by post. Catalogue gratis. We grow our 
own seeds, that's why we sell so cheap.—G. F. LETTS, Seed 
Grower, 37, Hadleigh, Suffolk. _ 

POTATOES I POTATOES! POTATOES! 

1 PECK OF FIRST EARLY, 1 peck Second 

•L Early, 2 pecks Maincrop—in all 4 pecks of Potatoes, packed 
in separate bags, named, free on rail. 4s. ; half-quantity. 2 
pecks, 2s., free on rail.—G. F. LETTS, 8eed Grower, 37, 
Hadleigh, Suffolk. _ 

LOVELY FRUIT COLLECTION. 

ABSOLUTELY MUST BE CLEARED.- 

4 Gooseberries, 6 Currants, 2 Apples, 2 Pears, 1 Plum, 1 
Walnut-tree, 1 Mulberry-tree, 12 Raspberry Canes, 1 Apricot, 
in all 30 trees, named, carefully packed, free on rail, 4s. 6d.— 
G. F. LETTS, Fruit Grower, 37, Hadleigh. Suffolk. 



SPECIAL LOW - 
CASHJFFER. 

HORNE’S 

FRUIT 



for 2s. 9<L, or Is. each. 

Any of the above can be assorted in Apple, Pear, Plum, or 
Cherry—as you like. 

3,000 BUSH or PYRAMID APPLE. PEAR, 
PLUM, or CHERRY, all grand stuff (see Catalogue for 
names), all splendid fruit-hearing trees. Is. each, or 6 for 5s. 

2,500 BUSH or PYRAMID APPLE. PEAR, 
PLUM, or CHERRY, all grand stuff, but not quite so 
large as t he a bove. 9d. each, or 6 for 4s. 3d., named. 

6.000 TREES (Names Lost).— Now. I had the 
misfortune to label a quantity of trees with labels that were 
sold as waterproof, but were not, so when we went to label 
them properly the names had washed off. Now we must 
clear these at once. Thoy are all strong fruit-bearing trees, I 
in fact, many had fruit on last season. The eating Apples 
are divided from cooking Apples, so can give you which you 
like. Now, to clear the whole field I make this terrible offer I 
in Apple, Pear, Plum, Damson, Greengage, Cherry, all same 

? rice, nr mix them as yi u like, 9d. each, 6 for 48., 12 for 
8.6d. Mind you, theBe are a great bargain, and will soon 
go. _ 

10,000 APPLE, PEAR. PLUM. CHERRY - 

which you like, how you like, what you like. These are the 
smaller ones picked out from the above lot, and are nice 
stuff ; 6tL each, 6 for 28. 9cL, 12 for 58. 

All the above trees will be carefully packed, packing free, 
and free on rail. Order at once—have the beBt. 

G. F. LETTS, 

Prnlt Grower. 37, HADLEIGH. SUFFOLK. 

I WILL GIVE YOU THEM. 

I QUART of my New FIRST EARLY PEA 

-L King of Marrowfats, height 1J ft., grandest Pea grown, 
and given gratis one large packet of ray now late Pea Talk of 
the Table and one packet of my new Bean The Foot Long 
Now. to let you see what my seeds aro, I will send the three 
Lots, named, carriage paid, Is.—G. F. LETTS, Seed Grower, 
37. Hadleigh. Suffolk. 


3/- NOT A LIMERICK. 31 - 

F )R ONE WEEK ONLY.—Look here ! All 

strong plants for your greenhouse or window. 1 Camellia, 
1 Azalea, 4 Primulas. 6 Kmilax, 4 Asparagus Ferns, 2 nice 
Palms, 1 lovely Bridal Wreath, 6 Hanging Plants, 4 Carna¬ 
tions, 4 Fancy Ferns, 4 Cyclamens. 4 Grevilleas. 2 lovely Pot 
or Climbing Rosea. 2 Arum Lilies. 2 Japanese Lilies. 6 Lily of 
the Valley, 4 Kolanunis, 4 Auriculas (prize strain), 3 Fuchsias, 
1 Hydrangea, 2 Fancy Shrubs, 3 Aralias, 12 lovely-Gladiolus, 
1 Spirwa, 1 double White Lilac; in all 84 splendid plants ana 
bulbs; all carefully packed and free on rail, 3a., and given 
with every older this week 1 splendid White American Rose, 
enormous bloom. The whole Lot, 3a., free on rail.—G. F. 
LETTS. The Numerics, 37, Hadle igh. Suffolk._ 

TVyriLITARY KNEE BOOTS, smart appear- 

■L’-L anee, 7s. M. per pair. Naval Knee Boots, very strong, 
fis. fid. per pair. Bluchers, 6s. 6d—|^r pair. Any b*p, car 
paid. Cash returned if not Bpwovea. j4L J. OASSOp. I^ye. 


STANDARD APPLES.-The following popular kinds 
are included : Cox's Orange Pippin, Worcester Pear- 
mains, James Grieve, Ecklinvillo, Allington Pippins, 
Blenheim Orange, Devonshire Quarrendcn, Brum ley 
Seedlings, and many others, 2s. each; 9s. half dozen; 

17s. 6d. dozen. ! 

Also a very fine lot of PYRAMID APPLES (2 and 3 
years), on English Param.se, including Worcester 
Pearmains, Cox's Orange Pippins, James Grieve, Alling¬ 
ton Pippins, Bram ley Seedling, Warner’s King, Houblon. i 
Charles Ross, Peasgood Nonsuch, Blenheim Orange, and 
many others, 1 b. each ; 5s. half dozen; 9s. 9d. dozen. 

HALF-STANDARD APPLES on Crab Stock (2 and 
3 years):—Worcester Pearmains, Cox’s Orange Pippins, 

B rani ley Seedlings, Newton Wonder, Allington Pippins, 
Lord Derby, Blenheim Orange, James Grieve, la. each ; 

5e. half dozen ; 9 j. 9J. dozen. 

RASPBERRY CANE3. - Superlative, Perfection. 
Hornet, Baumford Seedling, Norwich Wonder, all 2s. 
dozen; 3s 100; 15s. 1,000. Wilson Junior BLACK¬ 
BERRY CANES, 6d. each; 3s. dozen; 15s. 100. 

GOOSEBERRY TREES. 2 years.-Crown Bobs, Whin- 
ham Industry. Golden Drop, Sa dozen; 12s. 6d. 100. 
lice's Prolific BLACK CURRANT, 2 years, strong stuff. 

3s. dozen; 12s. 6d. 10J. Raby Castle and Dutch RED 
CURRANTS, 2 years, 2s. dozen ; 8s. 100. 

8TRAWBERRY PLANTS.-Following kinds: Lax- 
ton's Bedford. Lax ton's Reward, Laxton’s Latest of All, 
Givon's Late Prolific, Is. dozen; 3s. 100; 15s. 1,000. 

100,000 Early Market CABBAGE PLANTS, 3a. 1,000. 
LIST FREE. 

W. HORNE & SONS, 

Fruit Tree Growers, 

CLIFFE, near ROCHESTER, KENT, 

2FORBES 2 

Illustrated Catalogue 

(NEARLY 200 PAGES) 

Contains the best existing Collections of all 

Florists’ Flowers & Hardy Plants 

including his world - renowned 44 GOLD MEDAL” 
PENTSTEMONS, PHLOXES, etc., with plan for 
arranging Perennial Borders. Carefully revised descriptions, 
cultural directions, colour, height, time of flowering, British 
or common names, prices, etc., etc. 

Experts unanimously accord Forbes’ Catalogue the 
unique and conspicuous distinction of being the best and 
most reliably accurate Up-to-Date Reference Book extant. 

IT IS FREE ON APPLICATION. 

JOHN FORBES, 

Roral Nurseries, 

HAWICK, Scotland. _ 

“NICOTICIDE.” 

(Fumigant.) cubic feet. each. 
Half gallon Tin, containing sufficient for 160,000 , 60- 

No. 1 size Tin-1 pint 25 Cheaper 40,000 3 15 - 

No. 2 size Tin— £ pint than Other 20,000 £ 7 6 

No. 3 size Hot.—6o& brands and 12,COO 4 6 

No. 4 size Bot —4 oz. mor effective 8,000 t: 3 . 
No. aiz .0 Bot.—4 oz., newsize, sufficient for 4,000 rj 18 
No. 5 Bize Bot.— 1 oz. “ sample " ,, „ 2,000 10d. 

Fumtgators, 1- each, for 5,000 cubic feet. 
Nicottcldo Plant Wash for Outdoors or Indoors. 

J Pint, 12; Pint, 2/-; Qrt., 3 6; i Gal., 5 -; Gal . 10/-. 
TESTIMONIALS.—“Find and Second Prize at Liverpool 
Horticultural Show for all White Grapes and Musciits, uls«. 
at Woolton for Black and While Grapes. I have used “ Nico- | 
ticide" for I he last two years, and have found it to U- the 
twst fumigant for general use, including Muscats and Lady 
Downes Grapes, ami I have never had any ill effects from 
the use of it. — W. Wilson, Head Gardener, Gorsey Cope, 
Gateacro, near Liverpool.'' Testimonials from the Earl of 
Yarboro's, Lord Derby’s, and the Duke of Montrose’s Head 
Gardeners, and hundreds of others. Write for list of testi¬ 
monial*. If you cannot secure, we will supply direct, carriage 
paid. Insist on your Seedsman supplying them. 

HUNTER & GOW . 46. Thomas St„ Llv cr pooL 

INCREASE YOUR CROPS^ 

By using seed inoculated with NITROGEN-FIXING 
BACTERIA (Professor Bot tomley’s preparation). A Glou¬ 
cester smallholder writes : “With Nitro-Baeteriue I trebled 
my crop.’’ Our 5s. Collection contains 4 pts. Sutton's Excel¬ 
sior. Gradus, Telephone, and P of Wales Peas; 2pts. Runner, 
Dwarf, Broad Beans; 1 oz Eckfords S. Peas, all inoculated; 
23 market pkts. Veg. and 6 pkts. Flower Seeds. Villa Col¬ 
lection (half above), 2s. 9d., all car paid. 400 S. Teas, 6d. 
Garden Peas, Is. pt. Beans, lOd. pt.; Broad, 8d. 

EVELYN & CO., 7a, Wisteria Road, LEWI8HAM. 

QOUTH AFRICAN SHOOTING GLOVES. 

^ —Quite new. Pure Wool. Any sire, post free, 12 
stamps.—H. J. OAS8QN. Government Contractor, Rye. 


His latest day for receiving Advertisements 
IS FRIDAY, • a.nt. 


CANTS 

World=renowned 
CHAM PION 

ROSES 


Direct from the Original Firm. 
Established 1765. 



THE FINEST STOCK OF ROSES 
IN THE KINGDOM. 

Full Descriptive Catalogue free on application. 

BENJAMIN R. CANT & SONS, 

The Old Rose Gardens, 

COLCHESTER. 


MEN’S OR WOMEN’S CLOGS 

For Wear on Wet Soil. 

OUR C BRAND. feltlinea 

Only Keenest 


3/6 

POSTAGE PAID 


All made usual 
Boot sizes. 

3 b, 4'm 5 s, 6's, 7 b, 8'b, 
9 b, 10 s, 11b. 


lon’t risk Rheumatism. 

’.ARDEN BOOT WAREHOUSE, 4, Wellington St., Glasgow 














"mETTING FOR TENNIS BORDERING.— 

•L* Colour and specially prepared, with line attached to 
Net too and bottom throughout; easy to erect or take away; 
25 yards lontr, 3 yards wide, for 7s. 6d.; standards for same, 
10ft. h-gh, Is. each. Garden Netting, 30sq.yards, for 1 b. Car. 
paid on orders over 5a. — H. J. OASS ON, Net Works, Rye. 

TRIE GARDEN ANNUAL for 1908. Contains 

-L Alphabetical Lists of all branches of the Horticultural 
Trade. The Lists of Gardens and Country Seats (containing 
over 10 , 000 ) have been very carefully and extensively revised, 
and aro admitted to l>o the most complete ever published. 
Price )s.; by post. Is 3d. — PUBLISHER, 17. Furnival- 
etreet, London, E C. Stamps aot taken in payment. 

































































» 



YDENHAMS 

EED S s^ u 


UCCESS. i 


THE BEST GARDEN 


SEEDS THAT GROW 


TOOQOPOJ SttOS HAVE 6EIM SHOW* BY 
HM.THC HIHC a H.M.THt LATE qUCCHFOK SB YCARi 
BICAV$it TWtY THl BIST SEtOS 1MA7 CROW 


TOOGOOD 4 SONS 

if. KINO'-S St EO OR 0 WE R s. 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


February 29, 1908 


AT MODERATE PRICE8 

SEND TO 


Mr. ROBERT SYDENHAM 


No. 9, Tenby Street, 

BIRMINGHAM 

NO ONE WILL SERVE rOU BETTER. 


DOBBIE'S CATALOGUE 

And Oulde to Horticulture, 

2j 2 Pages—ago Illustrations. 

A FREE COPY 
Will be sent per Parcel Post 
To anyone Interested In (hardening 
Who makes application lor same, 
Sending Coat of Postage— 3 °' 

And mentioning name of this paper 


HIS UNIQUE LISTS 


Are acknowledged by all to be the Beat, Cheapest and moe 
Reliable erer published. They contain only the Best 

FLOWERS AND VEGETABLES 

WORTH GROWING, 

Sent post free on application, 


Webbs’Masterpiece Onion 

'BEST FOR EXHIBITION & TABLE USE. 

NEW, 1/6 per packet. 


SWEET PEAS A SPECIALITY. 


" Your Masterpiece Onion is rightly named. I grew 
thorn side by eiae cf Ailsa Craig. Init MafU-rpiej c was 
much the best."—M k. Hunky Blunn, The Usrdeus, 
Moorcroft. 


No flowers give so much cut bloom at so little cost and 
trouble if treated as instructions sent with each Collection. 

12 Good Varieties, 50 seeds of each .. Is. 6d- 
12 Better Varieties, 50 seeds of each . Is. 9d. 

Or the Two Collections for 2s. 6d. 

12 Best Varieties, 50 seeds of each ■ 2s. Od* 
* Or the Three Collections, 4s., post ft-ec, 

and eight other varieties free of charge. 

NAMES ON APPLICATION. 

12 Newest Varieties, 4s. Od. Or what I consider the 

best of Iho newest. 

The number of seeds in these packets varies; the quantities 
are stated in black figures after each name. 

Aizmes Eckford (15), soft blush pink ; Bari Cromer 
(20), mulberry; Frank Dolby (20), lavender; Her¬ 
bert Smith (25), orange bicolor; Lord Nelson (20), 
dark blue; Miss Millie Maslin (25), rich crimson; 
Mrs. Hardcastlo Sykes (20), blush pink ; Mrs. 
Collier (20), new primrose; Nora Unwin (20), 
white; Primrose Spencer or improved Clara 
Curtis (10), new wavy primrose ; Queen of Spain (20), 
salmon pink ; White Spencer (10), syn. or improved 
Etta Dyke, the newest, best, and largest wavy white. 
Collections Nos. 3 and 4, 5s. 
Primrose Spencer and White Spencer may be 
had in packets of 25 seeds, 1 b. each, or 6 packets for 5s. 

Special Price for the Four Collections, 7s. 

Stock it now getting thort. Please order AT ONCB 
to prevent ditappointment. 


CATALOGUE GRATIS & POST FREE. 


Seedsmen & Florists to H.M. THE KINC 

ROTH ES AY. 


The King’s Seedsmen* 

WORDSLEY, STOURBRIDGE 


Sweet Peas 


THE BEST TOMATOES. 

3d. per Packet of 200 Seeds* 

THE BEST CUCUMBERS. 

6d. per Packet of 10 Seeds. 

THE BEST ONIONS FOR EXHIBITION 

EXCELSIOR, 6d. per Packet of about 
1,500 Seeds. 

AXLSA CRAIG, Od. per Packet of about 
1,200 Seeds. 

Please compare these prices with what you 
are paying. 

ALL OTHER SEEDS EQUALLY CHEAP AND COOD. 


W When growing Swoct Pets, grow onlv the 
I best. The best that can be obtained are 

ECKFORD’S 

1908 NOVELTIES. 

Write for Catalogue containing full (•articular* 
of this season's novelties. It also gives details of 
some very special offers. 

SPECIAL NOVELTY OFFER. 

One (Kicket each of fhe eight grand novelties, 
7s. 6d.. post free. Half-packet of each, 4 b., post 
free for cash with order. 

Villa (B) Collection. 
Twenty-four splendid varieties, suitable for exhi¬ 
bition, 50 seeds of each, 5s. Cd. 

Villa (C) Collection. 

Twelve splendid varieties, suitable for exhibi¬ 
tion, 50 seeds of each, 2s. Od. 

A Rook'et. {firing full jvirticu'ars on Ui< cul- l 
lure of Sircrt Pros, given i nth every order. i 
F REF. Send a postcard for Coloured A 
i Illustrated and Full Descriptive Catalogue. M 
l It is sent post freo. Write to-day. B 


FREE BOOK NOW 


160 barge Pilots of Pictures and 
Information about Tooueojo’s 
Garden Heeds, including every¬ 
thing old and new worth grow ing. 


T00C00DS CARDEN SEEOS ARE THE 
ONLY ONES IN THE WORLD C000 
ENOUCH TO BE SOLD ONDER GUAR¬ 
ANTEE; AND THEY COST MUCH LESS. 


BEGONIAS. 

From the Best Private Collection. 

Having arranged to take all Mr. Fred. Davis' surplus 
stock. I offer them at exceptionally low prices. 

Extra Choice Double Tubers 7s. 6d. dozen 
Second Choice .. 5s. dozen 

Best Single Tubers -- .. 4s. dozen; 27s. 100 


Write to-day to 


Jwect Pea Specialist 

L .WEM, A 


TOOGOOD & SONS 


THE KING’S SEEDSMEN 
SOTJT HAM3[> TOW. 





























Fedruatit 29, 1903 


a 4-1! DEN1X-0 ■ IL L USTRJ TER 


Entirely 

Chemical. 


CANARY GUANO 


Always 

Uniform. 


THE BEST FERTILIZER IN THE WORLD. USED IN EVERY CONTINENT. 


I rom Mr. G. Wythes, Head Gardener to the Duke of 
Northumberland, Syon Gardens, Brentford. 

I am much pleased with Canary Guano. I have found 
our lawns dressed with it have greatly benefited. It ig 
most valuable for pot plants under glass. It is soon taken 
hold of by the roots and is a safe plant food. 


Guaranteed Sold by Scedamen ' &c -< In 6d *» l/-» and 2/6 Tina * Ba 8*. 

Analysis 14-lbs, 4/0; 28-lbs, 7/0; 56-lbs, 12/6 : i-cwt 20/- each, 

with every or 8604 direct from Ipswich, carriage paid in United 

Tin and Bag - . Kingdom, for cash with order. (6d. Tins 10d., 1/- Tins 1/3.) 


Canary Guano is essential to secure perfection In Flower, Fruit and Foliage. 

Write for pamphlet with particulars of 37 different Fertilizers , sent free and post paid , to the Sole Manufacturers , 

THE CHEMICAL UNION, LIMITED, IPSWICH. 



ARE YOU 

AN EXHIBITOR? 

If so, you will find some of 
the finest strains in the world 
at Pennell’s, of Lincoln. Peas 
and Beans a speciality ; also 
many Novelties. If well culii- 
vated these are bound to take 
prizes. Catalogue free. 

PENNELL & SONS, 

Seed Crowers, 

LINCOLN. 


Advertisements Intended tor next Issue 
ehnnlrt rnanh tib before February 28._ 


SEEDS''.',KINGS 


GROWN ON OUR GREAT SEED 

FAMOUS FOR FARMS IN ESSEX. FAMOUS FOR 
115 YEARS. 115 YEARS. 

GAROEN SEEDS 

SHOULD NOW BE SOWN. 


ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUES POST FREE. 


&Jjkr JOHN K. KING ti SONS, 

THE KING'S SEtOSME*- appointment 

COGGESHALL, Csaax : ai«« READING. 


"DOSE TRAINING.—Special Rope for Rose 

J-V training, quite new, rot-proof, though it holds the mois¬ 
ture, and is warmer than iron chain. Twopence per yard; 
size 3-inch round canvas shadings for garden use, 5 yds. by 
4 yds., 10s.; or any size made at sixpence per sq. yd. Stout I 
Htrips for tree training and soft garden string, either, 3d. lb.— I 
H. .1 HASSON, Rye. 


STOVES 

TERRA-COTTA PORTABLE FOR COAL. 
ROBERTS'S (Improved) PATENT. For GREENHOUSES, 

Bedrooms, &c. Pamphlets, drawings, & testimonials lree. 

Pure and ample heat 24 hours for about Id. 
WITHOUT ATTENTION. 

See in use, —THOS. RO BERTS, Paten tee,34, Victor ia-st., S. W. 


WEEDICIDE 


A HIGH LY CO NCENTRATED PREPARATION. 

I Gallon of Weedicidc makes 100 Gallons of 

WEEDKILLER. 


mists. Willm. COOPER & NEPHEWS, Berkhamaled. 


I 





GRUBS, WIREWORMS, 

Slugs, and all sued Soil Jnsects {except ordinary Earthworms), 

KILLED BY 

Vaporibe dug into the soil as directed completely destroys the insects without any injury whatever to the plant. No tools, no 
trouble, non-poisonous, cleanly. Costs only a few pence for a whole garden. Potatoes become profitable, clean-skinned, and sound. 
Carrots grow smooth, wax-like, and appetising. Cabbages clean and healthy. Strawberries insect free and sound. 

Vaporite can be used also on Parsnips, Onions, Celery, Asparagus, Tomatoes, Pear tree 3 (for Pear-midge), Flowers, and, indeed, 
on practically every crop. Specimen testimonials—originals and hundreds of others—may be seen at London office. 

POTATOES. CABBAGES. CARROTS. SWEET PEAS. 


li. C., Bletchley, Bucks, writes: 


Mr. A. II. CJ .CondorMytchettfl, Surrey, 
writes, Feb. 2, 08: “ I used the last on 


quite satisfied with results, and shall be the luml I planted with Cabbages, and 


J. B.. Burton-on-Strather, Doncaster, 
writes, Jan., 08: —"I never had such 
beautiful Carrots and Parsnips before ; 


a regular user. My only regret is I did. ™ i l . l, h a L' W *r beauLiful Carrots and Parsnips before; ltM . ally _ Tlie 8ee d sown with Va 

not know sooner, as my Potato erop was have n „t had one Cabbage plant eaten t,iey arp M °* ean and * rce * rom ranker rooted splendidly, whilst that with 
... .. .. ..... and look almost like wax." -*—’-- 


A. B., Newport., Mon , writes: — "I 
found Vaporite very good for Sweet Pea 
seed. I used something that is made 
locally. The seed sown with Vaporite 


mined last, year by leather-jackets." 


simply burnt off.'' 


Cheaply-made imitations (meanly copying our packages, appear¬ 
ance, advertisements, etc.) are on the market offering discounts. 
You do not offer counterfeit money, therefore do not accept 
counterfeit goods. 

Tins: about 7 lb., 2 - (car. paid, 2/6); °r 5/3. car. paid, for 28 lb.; 
7/6 for 6C lb., car. paid; and 11 6 for 112lb., car. paid. 

Ask for Illustrated Booklet 49. 





(Dept. 12), 71a, Queen Vlctoria-st., London, E.C. 
COUPON, VALUE 6d. 

To extend the general use of Vaporite to those unfamiliar 
with it, we will send an ordinary full-sized 2s. tin of Vaporite 
for Is 6<1. to anyone sending remittance, together with this 
Coupon (duly filled up). Valid until March 7 for one Tin only. 

G. I. 

Name . . . 


Name oj nearest leading Seedsman . 


Digitized by 


Agents will be credited with above in full if sent in with 
current monthly account. 


URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 























X 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. ^biu/ahy 29, 1908 



iijj 




ifefB 


HARTLEY&SUCDEN,L TD 


THE MARVELLOUS WINTER SPRAY 

Kills all the eggs of Insects, and the Spores of Fungi, 
ensuring 

CLEAN and HEALTHY TREES and 
ABUNDANT CROPS of FINE FRUIT. 

Price 10^6 Per Gall. 

(One gallon makes 100 gallons of Spray Mixturej 


Write tr once tor Free OetcrlpUve Booklet — L 

Wm. Cooper & Nephews. Berkhamsted. 


SUITABLE FOR WORKSHOPS, STABLES, FOWL HOUSES, 
TOOL HOUSES, BICYCLE HOUSES, PANTRIES, 

POTTING SHEDS. 

Strongly made in Sections. Carriage Paid. 


PATENT GREENHOUSE BOILERS 


BOILERS only, £2 5s. and upwards, 
carriage paid to any 

, railway station. 

B sl Pipes extra. ,1 | 


GUARANTEE PROMPT DELIVERY 

from stock of 

“While Rose” Sectional Boilers. 

Any pouter from 250 to 6,700 sq. ft. radiation. 

They have also 

OVER 500 WROUGHT WELDED BOILERS 

for Heating and Domestic Supply in stock. 


12 £ 8 >< 8 !!! I 12 0 

The Bides on (Lends of above House are made of tongued, 
grooved, and V-jointed matchboard, prepared from J board. 
Roof of planed and rabetted weatherboard. 

FRAMES. 

lj-in. Glazed. 21-oz. Gloss. 

Painted 3 Coats. 

1- light Frames.—4 ft. by 3 ft., 18s.; 

2- light Frames.—6 ft by 4 ft., 32s.; ittilfl'T: ' 

8 ft. by 4 ft^ 40s. ;8ft. byfl ft., 54s. ^ 

TRELLIS. S-in. Mesh. 

GRE^N l-IO U S^ES.^ 

FORCING HOUSES. 

21-oz. Glass. Complete and Carriage Paid at Ry. Co. risk. 
100 ft. X 12 ft. .. £34 0 0 | 100 ft. x 14 ft... £42 0 0 

W.*A. EDQELL, F.R.H.S., Radstock 

Ehtablibhed 16 Years. 

HC-pacc Catalogue Post Free. 


NO BRICKWORK. 

TENANT'S FIXTURE HNSi 

NO TROUBLE, - 

Guaranteed Minimum Burning, 12 Hours. 

Particulars post free from Secretary, 

12 HOURS STOVE SYNDICATE, Ltd., 

66, Victoria St., WESTMINSTER, S.W. 


GOOD CHEAP GLASS. 

Always in stock, large or small quantities, in the following sizes 
12 by 10 14 by 12 20 by 12 20 by 14 20 by 18 

14 by 10 16 by 12 18 by 14 20 by 16 22 by 18 

16 by 10 18 by 12 18 by 16 24 by 16 24 by 18 

100 feet boxes! .. - c 100 feet boxes 1 .aim 3rds quality 
4lhs, 15-oz. / l^r/O 4tha, 21-oz. / IO/O 1,6 per box extra 
Note.— Glass cut to any size at alight advance on above prices, 
in large or small quantities. Special Lines.— 8 by 6, 9 by 7, 
10 by 8, 12 by 8, 13 by 9, 15-oz., 12a.; 21-oz., 14s. per box. 
Is, extra for 3rds. Putty, 28 lb ,2s 6d. Paint, Sash* 
Bars, Nalls and Roofing Felt. Iron and Zinc 
Gutters. Oil and Varnish, from stock. Put 
free on rail in London. Package free. All glass is sent direct 
from stock at my warehouse (not from wharf), carefully 
examined, and guaranteed to be in sound condition before 
handing to railway co. Intending purchasers will do well to 
consider the advantage of buying direct from stock at. ware¬ 
house. All glass is carefully packed, put direct on rail, risk 
of breakage very slight. Before placing orders with agent, 
please write for wholesale prices to— J, B. ROBINSON, 
Wholesale Glass and Builders' Merchant, 31, Moor-lane, 
London, E.C. Continuous advertiser in this paper for 
over 20 years. 


The Pioneer of Cheap, Simple, and 
Effective Heating for Small 
Greenhouses. 

The immense sale of this Boiler, and the numerous imlta* 
cions of it sent out in recent years, afford abundant testimony 

to its undoubted success. 

No. 1, to heat 50 feet of 4-inch pipe. £2 17 0 

No. 2, „ 100 „ „ T 8 f 

No. 3, „ 200 „ 5 10 0 

Also in larger Bizes, heating up to 500 ft. of 4-lnch pipe. 
Complete apparatus from £4 8 0. 

Illustrated Lists and Estimates on application. 

MESSENGER & CO., LTD., 

Horticultural Builders and Heating Engineers, 

Loughborough, Leicestershire. 
London Office: 122. VICTORIA STREET. 
WESTMINSTER, S.W. 


PORTABLE BUILDINCS, POULTRY HOUSES, 
^ STABLES, 

WORKSHOPS, 

poTT,NcsHEDs ’ 

Surnii. Eetab. 60 years. 

J. T. HOBSON & CO., BEDFORD. 


SIMPLEX LEAD 
11 GLAZING 


For Roofs, Skylights, and 
Horticultural Works. 

Ho special contract required. 

NO ZINC, IRON, OR 
PUTTY USED. 

ANY QUANTITY SUPPLIED. 


S FORCINC HOUSES, CARDEN FRAMES, s 

^ Reliable goods at reasonable pricen. In s 
^ require screwing together. No expert hel 

5 Chas. W, BROWNE & Co., Ltd, 

S London, ■ send I Manchester, 
a Broadway Wks., I for I Urafton St.Wk 
C Walham Green, I Free I Chorltonon- 
K S.W. | List. | Wedlock. 


Over 750,000 superficial feet In 
uBe on 2,000 structures. 

GROVER & CO. (LTD.) 

Engineers. &c., 

BRITANNIA WORKS, 
WHARF ROAD, 

CITY ROAD, LONDON, N. 
Write for Illustrations. Testimo¬ 
nials, and full particulars 
(sent post free). 


BEST AND CHEAPEST MANURE FOR 

VEGETABLES, FRUITS, AND FLOWERS. 

Prloe £3 10s. per ton in bags. Lota under 10 owt., 4s. per 
cwt- at works or 5s. per owt. Carriage Paid to any Station in 
England. 

Extracts from 32nd Annual Collection of Reporta 
NATIVE GUANO TOR POTATOES, VEGETABLES, to. 

,T. Haydon, Hampton: "Potatoes, excellent crop; none 
diseased. Grand for keeping away slugs.” G. PKRRY, 
Weatcliffe: " Peas and Onions splendid.'' 

NATIVE GUANO FOR FRUIT. ROSES, TOMATOES, Ac. 

8. Mitchell, Baloombe: "Grapes, Tomatoes, and Melon* 
most satisfactory.'' G. Acoleton, Carlisle: " Finest 
Manure ever used for Vines, Peaches, Roses, Carna- 


lllustrated Pamphlet on the useB of 
Fish Manure on receipt of p.o. 
Sample bags: 1 cwt., 6/6; 2cwt., 12/-, 
carriage paid. 

HUMBER FISHING & FISH 
MANURE C0. f 

135f., High Street, HULL. 


ORBBW BE _ *S . 


BRAHAM & PIPER, Brocklcy. London, S.E. 

“■pVERY MAX HIS OWN GARDENER.” 

-LJ By John Halehnm With illustrations in colour. 
"Mr. nalshum, ' says the Glasgow Herald, "has produced a 
fur more readable book than the ordinary Bmall guide to 
gardening. It is wriLten in a style which charms the reader, 
even when he is considering how to plant vegetables or to 
kill slugs. That Mr. Habham's advice is the outcome of 
practical experience is evideiothroughout, and Hie amateur 
gardener will derive profit. o^vidTas pleasure fro* the book." 

risivwtiPY s \3'0\-ij? Nr'"'”- 



tions, 4c." 

Orders to the Native Guano Co., Ltd., 19, New 

Bridge-street, London, E.C., where 32nd year's Testimonial*. 
Ac., may be obtained. AGENTS WANTED. 


Single barrel, hammerless, breech-loading Shot Guns, con¬ 
verted from Government Rifles, and fitted to take 12-gauge 
CFshot cartridges; specially bored by an improved process 
for long range and great, penetration : unequalled for all 
long distance shooting ; 15e. each. Double-barrelled Breech¬ 
loaders, from 25a. Air Guns. 12s. 6d. Walking-stick Guns, 
12s. 6d. Send 3 stamps for Price List.—MIDLAND GUN 
CO., Price-street, Birmingham. 


TNDEX TO VOLUME XXVIII.—The Bind- 

-L ing Covers (price Is. Gd. each) and Index (3d.) for VoL 
XXVIII. are now,*cady, and, may K* had of all Newsagents, 
or of the Published IjWktrirajJror 2a. Stamps not taken in 
payment. 

The La'.a.t day for reoclvliui Ivci tlsomont, 

urbaWMmiWgn 
















Fedruaivt 20, 1903 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


si 



LIST OF AWARDS AT THE R.H.S, 
MEETING ON FEBRUARY 11. 


The Best Opportunity of the Year, 
looa CATAI.OOX7K FREE ON APPLICATION. 

Write to day and secure the chance of participation in unprecedented Bargains. Thousands hare availed themselves of the 
opjioriunities offered in these Annual Stocktaking Sales, and the testimonials received from them can be seeu at the works. 
Below are some of the Bargains, the cost of newspaper space precluding the insertion of over 360 illustiatious contained in 

32 large jiages. 


ORCHID COMMITTEE. 

Awards of Merit. 

Diacro-Cattleya Colmantc, Sir J. Colman, Bt. Lycnste 
Bkinneri Orien, Mr. J. Bradshaw, Southgate. Sophro-Cat- 
tleya Antiochus rubra. Messrs. Charles worth and Co., 
Bradford. Cymbidiuui Lady Colman, Sir J. Colman, Bt. 

Medals. 

SrLV*R-mi.T FLORA. Mr. .1 Bradshaw (Or., Mr tl. ft 
hitelegg), Southgate, group of Orchids. 

Srf.VKR Flora— Messrs. J. Cypher and Sons, ChelUn- 
hain, for group; Baron Sr Henry Schroder, Bt. (Hr, Mr. 
BallantyneJ. for Odnntoglossutn coronarium brevifolium. 

SILVER Banksian. —Me„sr8. Stanley anil Co, Soulh- 
gato, N. ; Messrs. Hugh Low and Co , Enfield; Messrs. 
Moore, Ltd,, Rawdon, Leeds; Messrs. Jaa. Veitch and Sons, 
v* le,Bea < aw. ; and Sir Jeremiah Colman. Bt., Gatton 
lark, Rcigatc (lir., Mr. W. I*. Bound), for groups of Orchids 

FLORAL COMMITTEE. 

Award of Merit. 

H*ifp ai k en ® a * mon ^‘ ng (strain). Hugh Low and Co., Bush 

Medals. 

Silykr oilt flora —Messrs. J Veitch and Sons, Ltd , 
Chelsea, for Carnations, FYimulas, &c.; Mr. W. 1L Page, 
Hampton, for Carnations and Lilies. 

SILVER-GILT Banksian. — Messrs. Sutton and Sons, 
Reading, for Primulas; Messrs. Canned and Sons, Swanley. 
for Primulas; Messrs. Cuthbert, Southgate, for Forc-d 
Shrubs; Messrs. Low and Co., Enfield, for Carnations, 


encumber Frames, 

from 11 6 


Greenhouses, trom 50 


Forcing: Houses, 
from 42 6 


Propagators. 

from 15 - 


Pigeon 

cotes, 

from ie/8 


Dog Kennels, 

from 7 6 


Incubators, 

from 20 ■ 


Grit Crushers, 7/6 Portable Hut. 32 6 


Stable and Coach 
House, from £8 5s. 


Iron Buildings, 
from £4 15s. 


Hustle House, 

from 27 6 


Dove or P’gcon 
Cotes, 30 - 


l*a: 


F03 

SEEDS. 


Poultry Houses, Chicken Coops- Portable Buildings, Loose Boxes, 

from 10 - Coop 3 3, Run 2 3 from 576 £14 15s. 

TO EFFECT A CLEARANCE ALL C00DS HAVE BEEN REDUCED 15 7 . TO 50 % OFF USUAL LIST PRICES. 

SEND FOR ILLUSTRATED SALE CATALOGUE, FREE. 

r . COOPER T.t.d 751 > OLD KENT ROAD - LONDON, S.G, 


A Boon to Plant Lovers. Makes Gardening a Delight. 
Splendid Results with ail Plants. 

Sample. Is. Bus., 3s. 6d.; 3 Bus., 8s. 

Order through Seedtmaa, or of 

ADOO CO., CULLOMPTON 


Business Hours, 9 am. to 6 p.nSaturdays included. 


HEADERS will oblige ly mentioning “ Gardening” when writing to our Advertisers. 


NOTICE TO SUBSCRIBERS & ADVERTISERS. 

The Post Office having abolished the facilities for 
changing stamps into cash, tee cannot now receive them 

in payment. 

Postals may now be purchased from sixpence each and 
tip-wards for every sixpence rising to one pound, and 
stamps up to Jivepence may be affixed to the face of any 
Postal, thus avoiding the necessity of sending stamps for 
small amounts over Jivepence. 


Highest Awards: Cold Medal Royal Botanlo Society, June, 1905-08; Royal Horticultural Soolety, Ju!y, 1905-07. 


MOWERS 


ROLLERS 


AND 


Work,.*Sonth^rk"si.^ " "" 

I Am don, S.E. 

PLEASE WRITE for LIST 15 MOTOR MOWERS MADE In VARIOUS SIZES, 


Gardening Illustrated 


PRESS DAY FRIDAY. 
Published WEDNESDAY for SATURDAY. 


Line Advertisements. 9d. per line, minimum 
three line* (about twenty words occupy the first, three 
lines and each additional line altout nine words). FRONT 
PAGK guaranteed, 1 b. per line. No series reduction is 
made for Line Advertisements. 

Displayed or with Blocks. 

Orris Insertion .. .. 10a. per inch. 

Six Insertions .. .. pi r inch per insertion. 

13 or more » .. .. 8«6d. ,, 

Guaranteed Positions. 

No Reduction for Series. 

At the rate of £13 per page, minimum half a column. 

Whole Back Page. £20. 

Consecutive insertions not guaranteed. 

No advertisement inserted at a less price than 2s. 3d. m-f 
per insertion. 

Advertisements for ensuing number should reach the 
Office early in the week jtreceding that of issue to ensure 
insertion. No Advertisement can be "altered" or 
“ stopped ” after FRIDAY mornings post. 

Neither the position nor the repetition of the same 
Advertisement in successive weeks guaranteed. 

Advertisers not having a regular account at the Office 
must accompany their orders with remittance. 


CHEAP AND USEFUL HANDLIGHTS 

Very useful in a garden for placing over plants. Made 

of best materials, painted t wo coats, 21-oz. glass, and handles compleet. . 

For Frea List cf all kinds of g 

HORTICULTURAL WORK apply to yv-ia. \^T 


Sale Price for the com¬ 
plete Set of Sis. 20 - : usual 


BROCKLEY RD.. BROCKLEY. 
LONDON, S.E. 


THE GARDEH ANNUAL for 1908 


Price 1/-. Post Paid, 1/3. 

Nurserymen, Seedsmen. Horticultural i The Book contains about 10,0 0 of tho best 
Builders, and otbcis desirous of placing Country Scats in the United Kingdom, with 
Catalogues in the best hands, should procure tho name of the Proprietor and Head Gar* 
a copy. dener. 

Of all Booksellers, Newsagents, and Railway Bookstalls. 

17, FURNIVAL STREET, HOLBORN, LONDON, E.C. 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAI6N 


Ori'icKfl: 17, Ftrhtvai. Street, Holborn, London, E.O. 


Digitized b> 




GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. February 20, 1908 


The New- 

Nitro-Bacterine Culture 
as applied to Sweet Peas 

PROFESSOR BOTTOMLEY, M.A., Ph.D. (Professor of Botany, King’s College, 
London), has for years carried out in the Botanical Laboratory a series of experiments which have produced results 
of a sensational importance to the gardening world. It is impossible to give full details in the limited space at our 
disposal. Briefly, however, seeds are treated by what is known in science as a “ culture,” in such a manner that when 
placed in the soil bacteriological activity results, the soil being enriched by the production of nitrogen. We have made 
very careful enquiries both in Britain and on the continent, and we are confident not only that Professor Bottomley’s 
system is sound scientifically, but that it succeeds in actual practice in improving the crops in a most marvellous way. 

RYDER & SON have great pleasure in announcing that, in response to requests from their 
customers, they have prepared a quantity of SWEET PEA SEED ON THE NITRO-BACTERINE METHOD, 
thus enabling the gardening public to try the system. Everyone who grows Sweet Peas should grow a collection 
of inoculated varieties for comparison with those grown in the ordinary way. 

THE RESULTS of trials in all parts of the kingdom are reported to be most satisfactory, 
indeed the following words used in the report are, we believe, quite justified: “The results are amazing. The 
inoculated seed grows faster, ripens more rapidly, produces larger crops of better quality, and leaves the soil richer 
than before. It seems like a miracle, but it is attested by a cloud of witnesses.” 

SWEET PEAS particularly are reported on as being improved in a remarkable manner by this treat¬ 
ment. We therefore have prepared on the new method a limited quantity of seed of the finest show kinds, so that 
for a trifling cost trials may be made. A well-known grower says: “ The inoculation ot my Sweet Pea has been an 
immense success." Larger flowers arc produced of finer texture in larger numbers, and the plants are stronger. 
Those who exhibit and those who require the very best flowers, cannot possibly afford to overlook this new system. 


COLLECTIONS OF INOCULATED SWEET PEAS. 

A Collection of 12 Named Exhibition Kinds, for 1/1 post free. 

A Collection of 30 Named Exhibition Kinds, for 2/6 post free. 

Each Packet contains from 40 to 60 seeds according to the variety, thus the Collection of 12 kinds contains 
about 600 seeds. The seeds have all been most carefully prepared by Professor Bottomley’s method. They 
require no different treatment to ordinary Sweet Peas, and should be sown in exactly the same way. 

The above are Ryders’ usual prices and no extra charge is made for the trouble taken in preparing the seed. 

The seed is all of high quality, true to name, and will produce flowers in the highest perfection. 

SPECIAL NOTE .—As this new method has created a great sensation among expert horticulturists, 
causing the keenest interest, it is possible that the limited supply may quickly be exhausted. Early orders are 
strongly advised. If the stock is sold out the money will be returned, as this offer only holds good so long as 
supply lasts. 


BEWARE OF IMITATORS. ~98 

RYDER 8i SON beg to say that they have no connection in any way with any other Firm in 
this City or elsewhere. Ryders' Seeds in Penny Packets oan only 'ue obtained by writing direct to 
Ryder & Sun, Holyercll Hill, St. Albans. 


RYDER & SON, ST. ALBANS. 






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